IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /!<^1^ <• v.^ 1.0 ^1^ ta 1.1 i'*'^^ -^ ^w*' o 7 Ftxitographic Sdmces CorpQratiQn 23 \WIST MAM STRUT WiiSTRR,N.Y. MSIO (716)I72-4S03 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIM/ICIMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Iratitut* for Historical Microraproductions / institut Canadian da microraproductions historiquaa TMhnical and Bibliographic Notaa/Notaa tachniquaa at Mbliographiquaa Tha Inatituta haa attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy availaMa for filming. Faaturaa of this copy wMch may ba MMIograpMcally unlqua, which may altar any of tha Imagaa In tha raproduetlon. or which may aigniflcantly ohanga tha uaual mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. □ Colourad covara/ Couvartura da coulaur I — I Covara damagad/ D D D D Couvartura andommagAa Covara raatorad and/or lamlnatad/ Couvartura raatauria at/ou palllcuMa I — I Covar titia miaaing/ titra da couvartura manqua lourad mapa/ Cartas gAographiquas 9n coulaur Colourad Ink (l.a. othar than blua Encra da coulaur (l.a. autra qua blaua ou noira) I — I Colourad mapa/ I — I Colourad Ink (l.a. othar than blua or black)/ rn Colourad platas and/or llluatratlona/ Planchaa at/ou llluatratlona an coulaur Bound with othar matarial/ RalM avac d'autraa documanta ryi Tight binding may cauaa shadows or distortion atong Interior margin/ La fa liura aarrAe paut cauaar da i'ombra ou da la diatortion la long da la marga IntAriaura Blank laavaa addad during raatoration may appaar within tha taxt. Whanavar poaaibia, thasa hava baan omittad from filming/ II aa paut qua cartainas pagaa blanches ajouttes lors d'una raatauration apparalaaant dans la taxta. mala, lorsqua cala Atait posslbla. cas iMgaa n'ont pas 4t« filmAas. Additional commanta:/ Commantairaa supplAmantalras; L'Inatltut a microfilm* la maillaur axamplaira qu'il lui a 4ti poaaibia da aa procurer. Las details da cat axamplaira qui aont paut-ttra uniquaa du point da vua bibllographlqua. qui pauvant modifier una image reprodulte. ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dana la mAthoda normala de f ilmage aont indiquAa ci-daaaoua. D D Colourad pagaa/ Pagaa da couleur r~n Pagae damaged/ Pagaa andommagAas Pagaa restored end/oi Pagaa reataurias at/ou palliculAes Pages diacoloured, stained or foxei Pages dAcolorAes, tachet*es ou piquies Pagaa detached/ Pages dAtechies Showthrough/ Tranaparence Quality of prir Quallt* inigal* d* rimprassion Includes supplementary materii Comprend du metAriel supplAmentaira Only edition available/ Seule MItlon disponible r~| Pagaa restored end/or laminated/ py] Pages diacoloured, stained or foxed/ I I Pagaa detached/ r~p\ Showthrough/ fyn Quality of print varies/ |~n Includes supplementary material/ pn Only edition available/ Pagaa wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Lea psges totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une peiure, etc.. ont M filmAes i nouveau de fapon A obtenir la meilleure imege possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de rMuctton indiqu* ci-deaaous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X n/ 12X 16X aox a«x ax 32X I itailt I du odiftor ' un« mag* Th« copy fllmad h«r« has baan raproduead thanka to tha ganaroaity of: Unhwral^ of Satkatehtuvan Swlftnnn Tha imagaa appaaring haia ara tha poaaibia conaMaring tha condition of tha original copy and in kaaping Aiming contract apaeif icatlona. quality iaglbiHty L'axamplaira fllmA fut raproduK griea i la g4n4roaitA da: univwiny of oMiuiiciMwin S Mkrt oon Laa imagaa auhrantaa ont itA raprodultaa avac la plua grand aoln, compta tanu do la condition at da la nattatA da I'aKamplaira fiimA. at an conformit* avae laa conditkma du contrat da fNmaga. Original oopiaa in printad popar covara ara filmad baginning with tlia front covar and anding on tha iaat paga with a printad or iiluatratad impraa- aion. or tho back covar whan appropriata. All othar original coploa ara filmad baginning on tho firat paga with a printad or Hluatratad impraa- aion, and anding on tha tawt paga with a printad or iiluatratad impraaaton. Tha iaat racordad frama on oach microficho ahali contain tha symbol — »• (moaning "CON- TINUED"), or tha aymbol ▼ (moaning "END"), whichavar appiiaa. Laa axampMraa originaux dont la couvartura an paplar aat imprim4a aont fHniAa an common^ant par la pramiar plat at an tarmlnant aoit par la damlAra paga qui comporta una amprainta dimpraaalon ou dlNuatradon. Mit par la aacond plat, aaktn la caa. Toua laa autraa axamplairaa originaux aont fUmia Ui common^am par la pramlAra paga qui comporta una amprainta dimpraaalon ou d'iHuatratlon at an tarmlnant par la damMra paga qui comporta uno taHa amprainta. Un daa aymbolaa suhranta apparattra aur la darni4ra imaga da chaqua microfleha. salon ia caa: la aymbolo -^ aignHia "A 8UIVRE". la aymbolo y algnlfia "FIN". IMapa. piataa, charta, ate., may ba filmad at diffarant raduction ratioa. Thoaa too iarga to ba antlraly included in ona axpoaura ara filmad baginning in tha uppar laft hand comar. laft to right and top to bottom, aa many framaa aa raquirad. Tha following diagrama iiluatrata tha mathod: Laa cartaa, planchaa. taMaaux. ate. pauvant Atra filmte * daa taux da rMuctton dIffAranta. Lorsquo la ! > „..**.^-**»-**«^""Mf.V AN BBYOND THE ROCKY • *' K iir NORTH AMERICA, UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE AMERICAN BOARD OF COMMISSIONERS FOR FOREIGN MISSIONS. PERFORMED IN THE TEARS, 1885, 1836, AND 1S37. BY REV. SAMUEL PARKER, A.M. ABRIDGED. DUBLIN: PRINTED BY WILLIAM PORTEOUS, 18, WICKLOWSTREBT. MDCCOXL. '»! s:,-,. H ^'> r •■ , •. PREFACE. \ r In presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour be- yond the Rockj Mountains, the only apology necessary to make, is the hope of promoting a more extensive and par- ticular knowledge, thtui has heretofore been furnished, of the condition of that important section of our country. The Author's mode of travelling, ftimished many opportunities for observation, being conducted with leisure, and through one of the most interesting portions of the wide territories of the west. It is believed that no defects exist in the work, irreconcilable with a strict adherence to &ct8. The principal merit which is claimed for this volume is a scrupulous adherence to truth. Most of what is narrated in this work came under the Author's personal obervation ; and whatever is stated, which did not, was collected from gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Company, whose reputation for honesty and candour, as well as capability of judging intelligently, is well established. This source of information was available by comparing and collecting the statements of different individuals, retaining what corresponded with his own observation, or was weU supported by evidence. The belief is cherished, that the following work contains a greater amount of statistical information in regard to the country, and important facts, than are to be found in any production furnished by the press. Having travelled over a greater extent of territory than any who had preceded, and with the express object of exploring the condition of the aboriginal population, this position cannot be considered as assumed. Messrs. Lewis and Clarke passed the Rocky Mountains under a governmental appointment to explore the country, more than thirty years since, and their published travels iv. carry with them the evidence of candour and intelligence, and contain mnch valuable information ; yet their oppor- tunities beyond the mountains were somewhat limited They passed over the great chain of mountains from the head waters of the Missouri between the 45" and 46" of north latitude, and came upon the head waters of the Cooscootske, and followed that river to its junction with Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by water to acific ocean at the mouth of Columbia river, wintered (on die south side of the bay, and early the following riM returned to the mountains by the same route which ey jptusued on their outward journey. All oiher persons who have published any history of their travels beyond the mountains, were persons engaged in the Fur-trade, and many of their observations upon different sections of the country are just, but they are deficient in statistical information, and their productions are mostly confined to personal adventures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfeet or Crow Indians, starvation, and hair-breadth escapes. Justice to the public requires fideli- ty in the historian and traveller. It is not our buEdness to originate &cts, but to record them. The license given to poets, or writers of romance, cannot be tolerated here, and no flights of a lively imagination, or graphic powers in relating passing occurrences, can atone for impressions which are not in accordance with truth. /' While it was the leading object to beconujf acquainted with the situation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposition in regard to Teachers of Christianity, yet a careful attention was given to the geography of the country, its productions, the climate and seasons, ^niniala, lakes, rivers, and smaller fountains ; forests and prairies, moun- tains and valleys, its mineral and geological structure, and all the various aspects of its physical condition. The country here described ism jrenmv; every thing is form- ed on a large scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising 20,000 feet or more, the trees of the P •^ forest, the wide extended prairiesi plants of enormous growth, and the results of volcanic agency, which you meet in almost every direction, render the whole an ever-in- creasing scene of interest to the traveller ; and if any state- ments appear large, it is because the facts are so in them- selves. It has been an object in writing this volume to compress as much as possible the amount of information, instead of unnecessarily extending it, and the hope is indulged, that while these facts are perused, the desire may be awakened, if it does not abready exist, and if in existence, may be greatly increased, to benefit the original, the rightful Own- ers, and (with the exception of a few thousand fur-traders scattered to every point of compass over this territory) the sole occupants of this wide field of uncultivated nature. PARKER'S TOUR. CHAPTER I. Thb wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical condition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the last thirty years. Many things relating to the possession of the country, its future probable importance in a political view, its population and trade, have occupied much atten- tion. The christian public have not been inattentive to the interests, moral and reli^ous, of those whom the God of providence has placed in these remote re^ons, and who are without the blessings of civilization and Christianity. The American Board of Conmiissioners for Foreign Mis- sions, appointed an exploring mission to that country, to ascertain, by personal observation, the condition and char- acter of the Indian nations and tribes,'and the &cilities for introducing the gospel and civilization among them. That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a journey through a country of such extent, uninhabited except by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted. It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or indifference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed my purpose ; but it was the importance of the object. It was a trial to leave my family, not knowing what was before us, but when the time came to commence my jour- ney, we committed ourselves to God, and the enterprise was undertaken without reluctance, on the 14th March, 1835. March 28th. Arrived at Cincinnati. On our way to- day, near the town of Ripley, the boat took fire in the hold. There was a very stiff head-wind, which blew the fire back NOTE.— The abridgment of this work has been made with a faithful adherence to the Original, it is hoped, in spirit as well as in letter, with the exception of alte- ittdons in the arrangement of datM.— £(fttor. 8 'i4 m from the furnace down the hatchway, which after taking out some goods, had been carelessly left open. It caused great alarm. The Captain at once rounded the boat to the shore, and ran it in among some trees. As soon as the boat reached the laud, many throw their baggage on shore, and leaped from the upper deck. The hold contained many combustible cotton goods. But the fire was subdued, and after considerable difficulty the bout was again under way. Cincinnati is a large city for so new a country, situated in the south-west comer of the state, on the north side of the river, upon two plains ; one about sixty feet above the other, both of which appear formerly to have been washed by the river. The lower plain is about fifty feet above the bed of the river at low water. The streets run parallel, and cross each other at right angles ; the principal ones are paved, also the bank down to the water against the busi- ness part of the city, for the accommodation of loading and unloading steam and other boats. It is well built, and to a considerable length the buildings arc made of brick. One would hardly think from the mature appearance, and from the quantity of business going forward, that the first settle- ment was made in the year 1789. It is not only a com- mercial, but also a manufacturing, place, to a large extent. The population is composed of Emigrants and their de- scendants from New England, and the middle and some of the southern states, and also firom various parts of Europe ; and consequently of not a very homogeneous character. The city is well supplied with schools and seminaries of learning. There is a medical college in the city ; and two miles back, upon a pleasant hill, is the Lane Theological Seminary, wMch promises much toward helping forward the interests of religicxi in the West. Good morals and religion are as well sustained in this city as in any in our land. Took the steam-boat Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St. Louis, which by water is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. Arrived on the 30th at Louisville. Tliis is a fiourishing city situated near the falls of the Ohio, on the Kentucky side of the river, one hundred and fifty miles below Cincinnati. It is a growing place, of much com- mercial, and manufacturing business. The falls of the Ohio, are twenty-two feet, and can be passed over by boats in high water only ; which stage of water does not average u more than two months in a year. To save expense and delay of portage around the falls, a canal h»H been con- structed on the south side of the river, at great labour and cost. It is two miles in length, fifty feet wide, nnd forty feet deep, and is cut part of the way through solid lime- atone. The water being high, we passed over the falls. It wan a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly and smoothly ; but as you draw near to the falls, it in- creases in velocity and power. You soon find yourself in an irresistible current ; and you are anxious to know whether your pilots are well skilled in their profession. You look at them to see if they betray any fear ; you find, while their attention is fixed, their countenances are serene. Your fears give way to the pleasure of the sublime. The boat shoots forward with amazing force and velocity, and very soon you find yourself gliding along in the wide-spread calm below. The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth and easy current, and is diversified on every side with rich bottom-land, rolling hills, and precip>^tous bluffs. These hills and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from the shore of the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in every part are in view ; and so varied is the scenery, that there is no weariness caused by monotony. No where has the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in passing through this part of the great western valley. Farms, and towns, and villages, evince the advantage that has been taken of the exuberance of the soil. The many swifl-moving panting steam-boats show that industry fur- nishes the means of wide-extended and profitable com- merce. One cannot but notice the difference in the tastes and habits presented on the two sides of this river. Upon the Ohio side. New England modes and habits prevail : upon the Kentucky side, the style of the rich Virginian plan- ter is seen. Though almost all their buildings, except in villages, are made of logs, yet there are the customs of nobiHty kept up. You see a two story house, with two rooms upon each floor, and a wide, open, airy hall between. One of the lower rooms is a parlour, the other is a nursery, sleeping, and an eating room. Around this log mansion is a cluster of log cabins, the habitations of slaves. Open, a2 10 frank hospitality characterises the Kentuckian, which is pleasing \o a stranger. I ofifered a lady in one of these mansions some tracts, which she at first declined, with the enquiry, " Do you think we are heathen ?" « No Madam, for the heathen cannot read ; but tracts contain much that is intereaiing to all classes oi' i>eople, and after they are read, they can be circulated among those who may not be well supplied with books." I saw but a very few houses of worsMp except in villages. Passed, on the first of April, out of the waters of the Obio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out into a narrow sea, and meets the Mississippi in the same form. Both appear to expand themselves into their most majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to claim the superiority ; and when joined, they move on with united grandeur. To-day, a boy, ten or twelve years old, playing about the machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the leg, and had he not been immediately seized and extricated by two men standing by, he must have been drawn wholly in and crushed to pieces. The bones were not broken, but the calf of the leg was distressingly mangled. There being no surgeon on board, I officiated in dressing his wounds. Witnessed this evening a very pleasing scene, the fires of the prairies coming over the bluffs. The bluffs are two hundred feet high, and extend one or two miles along the river. At a considerable distance they looked like an illuminated city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, the illusion was dissipated. The fires had got nearly over the bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately ascending blaze, drawn up on the bluffs, and let down in festoons in the ravines ; and the counterpart reflected from the smooth waters of the broad Mississippi, added much to the beauty and grandeur of the prospect. In travelling upon these waters, it is painful to see how few books of any value there are on board the steam-boats. Some novels are found, but the most of them are of a li- centious character. Thousands of those who navigate these rivers are going to the judgment, regardless of the interests of their souls, and almost entirely destitute of the Bible. It gave great offence to many, that we should have religious worship in the ladies' cabin, as we did by invita- tion. Complaints of obtrusion were made — " obtruding 11 religion — no place for such things." But profanity and gambling are no obtrusion ; they are always in time, and always in place. Christians must keep religion out of sight and hearing, but the wicked may be as open and obtrusive as they please. They would not have christians cast their pearls before swine. Gambling is practised on board the steam-boats, upon these waters to a very great extent. It is a favourite amusement with those whose minds are not sufficiently cultivated to find satisfaction in reading, or intelligent conversation. The number of Black-legs who make gambling their business of life, is great, and they are adepts in their profession. Their success depends very much upon their skill in cheating, and to decoy the inex- perienced. Arrived in the evening of the fourth, at St. Louis. This is a flourishing business-place, situated on the west side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the Missouri, in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes north, and longitude 89 degrees 36 minutes west. St. Louis very much resembles Albany, N. Y. The ground ascends for about a half a mile from the river, and then spreads out into a widely extended plain, partly covered with shrubbery, back of which are open prairies. This place was settled by some French people, before the year 1765. That year St. Auge De Belle Rive, with a company from Fort Charles, took possession of the place. On the 4th of May, 1 780, the inhabitants were \dolently attacked by about one thousand Indians, and many were killed. The same year the first American bom citizen came into this place. In the year 1785, the Mississppi river rose twenty feet higher than usual, and did much damage. This river does not rise so high usually as those of less extent ; and one reason, and probably the principal one, is, on account of its spreading over widely-extended bottom-lands. In 1792, the first honey bees ever known here, came from the east. In 1814, the first steam-boat, the General Pik^, ascended this river io this place. It was a novel thing, and excited great admiration. This is the central place in the west for the fur trade, which is carried on by the American Fur Company to a considerable extent ; and also much business is done in lead, which comes from Galena. A great number of steam- 13 boats, and other water-craft of various descriptions and destinations, are seen here at almost all seasons of the jear. Adventurers, of almost every description of character and nation, come here, such as Trappers, Hunters, Miners, and Emigrants, as to a starting point, to go into the still far West, manj of whom seek a miserable fortune in the Rocky Mountains. The local situation of this town is such, that it will undoubtedly continue to be one of the first places for trade in the great valley of the Mississippi. There are 'five houses of worship, four Protestant, and one Roman Catholic. The Catholic cathedral is built of stone, and is a large, expensive building. The protestant influence is increasing, and there are here many active, ''svoted chris- tians who exert a salutary influence upon the town and vicinity around. The population is fifteen thousand. Found Doctor Marcus Whitman here, who is appointed by the American Board of Commissioners for foreign misssions, to be my associate. He came through the cen- tral parts of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, and arrived a few days before me. On the seventh we had an interview with Mr. Fontenelle, who takes charge of the Caravan sent out by the American Fur Company. The Caravan goes a very little beyond the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of carrying out goods for the Indian trade, and for the supply of their men who are engaged in hunting and trapping, in and about the mountains, and to bring back the furs which they have taken during the year. There are about three hundred men constantly employed in and about the moun- tains, and more than sixty who constitute the caravan. With a much less number, it would not be safe to perform tliis journey, as there are hostile tribes of Indians on the way, viz. the Arickaras, the Crows, and Blackfeet. Mr. Fon- tenelle kindly offered to accommodate us with such advan- tages as may be afforded in his Caravan. We found it necessary to leave this place to-day, for Liberty, which is one of the most western towns in the United States. We were very busily employed in making preparation for the journey, and in calling upon, and bidding farewell to Chris- tian friends. 13 CHAPTER II. I At five o'clock, p. m. went on board the steam-boat St.' Charles, Capt. Shellcross, and ascended the river twenty miles ; anchored at the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi, and laj by for the night, it being dangerous to proceed in the night, on account of the manj snags and sand bars in the Missouri. April 8th, proceeded up the Missouri by rather slow progress, and made our first stop at St. Charles, which is twenty miles above the confluence of this river with the Mississippi, and the same distance north-west fi'om St. Louis. This is a pleasantly situated village, upon the north side of the river. The country around is interesting, and the soil of superior quality. An enterprising chnstian population would make this one of the most desirable places in the west. Soon after we left the shore, a boy six years old, fell overboard. The current being swift, and the boat under fiill way, there was no opportunity to save him. He was seen floating a short time, but before the yawl could be loosed from its fastening, and manned, he sunk and was seen no more. His mother was a widow, and with her family was removing from Kentucky to Franklin, Mo. The Mother and the children lamented greatly and loudly. Near the middle of the day, on the ninth, we struck a snag or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water, that we could not tell which it was, and it became necessary to repair one of the wheels of the boat, which was much injured. This gave us an opportunity to go on shore. Several of my fellow-voyagers and myself ascended one of those high bluffs, which frequently skirt this river. This was done by climbing on our hands and feet up an elevation of several hundred feet Here we had a delight- ful view of the surrounding country, with its intermingled prairie and wood land, its cultivated spots, and its hills and dales. But in attempting to return a new difficulty interposed. I said we ascended on our hands and feet — could we return in the same way ? We were compelled, by descending backwards, to use much caution, and letting ourselves down by the grass, or sometimes by a shrub or 14 tree, and assisting each other, we came safel/ to the shore. We also went to a place, some distance below this^ where Lewis and Clarke lay by three days, waiting a better state of water. They encamped under a shelving rock, which is composed of white quartose sand, of excellent quality for malong flint-glass equal to that found above Pittsburgh. Saw many wild turkeys along upon the uninhabited shores. April 12th, Sabbath, kept in my state-room, and endea- voured to observe the day according to the commadment ; thought of my family, and imagined I could see them in the morning in the Sabbath school; and then with the many children and teachers, enter the sanctuary to enjoy the privileges of public divine worship. Monday, passed Boonsville and Franklin, small villages which have a country of rich land around them, and when brought under good cultivation, these villages must rise in importance. The scenery up this river is sufficiently di- versified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along the shores are mostly oak and cotton wood, with some hacberry and buckeye. The soil is free and rich. The river makes nothing of washing away and forming islands. Sand bars and snags are so common, that, by becoming ac- customed to them, we hardly think of danger. It is interest- ing to see how easily and how deep the trees take root in the rich soil along this river. Frequently, where the banks are washing away, the roots of the trees are exposed to full view, and generally there is only a large central root descending ten or twelve feet with small ones branch- ing out, presenting the appearance of an inverted cone. Found the steam-boat Siam, Captain L. at Chariton, on board of which the St. Charles put her freight and passen- gers, and returned ; both boats having so far discharged their freight that one could proceed with what was remain- ing. Having got under way, the boat ran upon a sand bar, which gave it a sudden whirl about, apparently threat- ening a disaster, but the quicksand of which the bar was commposed, soon washed away, and we went ahead again. Running aground in this river is a very different thing from what it would be in most waters ; for the bars are so generally formed of quicksad, that in most instances the current around the boat sets all clear. April 19th, another Sabbath on board the steam-boat. How great a contrast to the sacredness of the day when it 15 on is enjoyed in the christian family circle ; or in the sanctu- ary, where God is worshipped in the great congregation ; or in the quiet, unobtrusive Sabbath school, where attentive minds sit down to study the word of ^od, that they may do it ; and where the teachers are heard explaining and enforcing divine truth upon the young and tender con- science. As we passed along, I saw many children standing on the banks of the river. I thought how benevolent persons at the east had desired their religious instruction, and how much had been done for the enterprise : but it had failed to reach these. I also reflected on the examples of infidelity and vice around them, by which they are educated for destruction, and endeavoured to ask the Great Benefactor of all, to do that for them, which it was not in my power to do. I contrasted in my mind the difference between kindred souls in sweet communion, in the service of God to-day, and the unrestrained wickedness of ungodly men, which my eyes and ears were witnessing, and said, when will the kingdoms of this world become the kingdoms of our Lord and his Christ ! About the middle of the day, the captain and his men appeared to be given up to blmd infatuation. The Siam was a new, well built boat, had four boilers, and it was her first season. They appeared to regard no bounds in raising and applying steam. Such was the power under which she laboured, that she more than trembled. For a long time I expected some disaster — ^looked at the captain to see if I could discover any apprehensions of danger. There was no want of evidence that there was a free use of ardent spirits. Soon the disaster came, less extensive than I feared ; the main shaft, which was large and made of iron, broke, and all was over as to her going any farther. Monday, 20. This day was spent in endeavouring to find some remedy for the disaster, but all to no purpose. It only remained to discharge her cargo upon the wUdemess shore, let her passengers shift for themselves, and return with one wheel like a crippled-winged fowl. Two miles above us lay the steam-boat. Nelson, upon a sand bar high and dry. She ran aground upon the Sabbath, and being left by a freshet in the river, is waiting for another to take it off. Our captain remarked at dinner to-day, that most of the accidents which happen to steam-boats, take place 16 on the Sabbath ; and that he did not believe it would be long before they would not run on that day. We engaged a man to take us in a waggon to Liberty, and towards evening went out into a small neighbourhood of Mormons, where we lodged. They had fled from Jackson county, which they call their promised land, and to which they say they shall return. They are a poor, deluded people, and when they speak of their persecutions, they do not imitate the spirit of our Saviour, who, when he was reviled, re- viled not again, and when he suffered, threatened not. Rode on the 21st, twelves miles to Liberty, through a very pleasant and fertile country, sparsely inhabited, well supplied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly to render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the year, when nature arousing itself from the sleep of winter, appears with renovated beauty. Not only man, but flow- ers, and trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and the scene. I was much charmed with the wood-duck (A Sponsa) which here were numerous; the variety of its colours seemed adapted to the beauty of the scenery which surrounded us. And the sprightly deer did not seem to accelerate its movements more by fear, than by love of flight. Continued in this place about three weeks, waiting for the Caravan to get in readiness. At this place it forms — men, horses and mules, and waggons, are collected and put in readiness; and from this place commences the long journey for the west. While we remained here, we had an opportunity to collect much information from those who have been to, and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard to the country, mode of travelling, and concerning the various Indian Tribes on the way. Saw Capt. Ford and Lieut. Stein from Fort Leavenworth. They are both pro- fessors of religion, and appeai: to be well acquainted with the Indian Country. Lieut. S. has been much among the Indians, was out with the Dragoons the last year — was among the Pawnee Picts ; gives a very favourable account of them, and thinks the way is prepared to establish a mission among them with fair prospects of success. He also thinks the way is prepared, or is preparing for a mis- sion among the Camanches, who heretofore have been hos- tile, but now wish for peace and trade with the Americans. Saw also Mr. Vaun of this place, a Baptist professor, who 17 has made two trips to Santa Fe, and has resided two years in that place. He gives a very favourable account of the Navahoes, a tribe who number about two thousand war- riors. Their country lies between the head waters of the Rio Del Norte, and the eastern branches of Rio Colorado. They carry on agriculture to a very considerable extent ; have large herds of cattle and horses, and flocks of sheep ; and do much in domestic manufactures ; and have houses of good construction. They are Mendly to the Americans, but not to the Spaniards. Mr. V. thinks they would rea- dily receive protestant missionaries, and would prefer them to Roman Catholics, because of their hostility to the Spa- niards. He also speaks well of the loaches, or Apaches, a small tribe on the Del Norte towards old Mexico. These have been at war three years with the Spaniards. Saturday, May 9th, rode twenty six miles to Canton- ment Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of the Missouri river, nearly twenty miles out of the United States. I preached three times on the Sabbath, and most of the people of the garrisson assembled, and gave good attention. There are a very considerable number of professors of re- ligion attached to this station, but they have no chaplain to teach and lead them in their devotions, which is a defi- ciency in our military establishments. Col. Dodge and some of the other officers appear disposed to maintain good order, and I should think they exert a salutary influence. I had an opportunity, before I returned to Liberty, to take a view of the fort and adjacent country. May, 15th, all things being in readiness we commenced our journey for Council Bluffs, directing our course north west. We did not get to-day beyond the boundaries of the United States, and for the last time, for a long period to come, I lodged in the house of a civilized family. Sixteenth, travelled to-day twenty miles, which brought us beyond the limits of civilization, and into the Indian country. Encamped on a prairie surrounded with wood. The sensations excited by the circumstances of our situa- tion, were peculiar, and such as I had not before felt : — 'in a wilderness, inhabited by unseen savages and wild beasts, engaged in setting our tent, preparing supper with only a few articles of fdmiture, the ground for our chairs, table and bed. But all was conducted in good style; for I 18 woald not dispense with attention to decencies, because beyond the boundaries of civilization ; and having adjusted every thing in good order, and offered up our evening devotions, we retired to rest. On the 17th, crossed over the east, or little Platte, which is a very considerable river, and spent the Sabbath with Mr. Oilmore, a methodist professor, and governmental blacksmith for the loway Inuans. Saw many Indians of the loway, Sioux, and Fox tribes. Among these a Fox Indian and his wife, were noble looking persons, having their faces painted, the man's entirely, and the woman's in stripes, with unmixed vermillion. 'They felt too important to be seen noticing what was transpiring around, and seemed to think themselves the only objects to be noticed. Here is an excellent fertile tract of country, and nothing discouraging for a missionary station, except the contami- natiug influence of vicious white men. They wish to cul- tivate their land, probably more from necessity than on any other account; for their game is mostly gone. One of them came to Mr. G. to get some ploughs, and remarked, " it is hard work to dig up our ground for com by hand." The Sioux here are only a small band, who would not join Black Hawk in his war against the United States, and who are now afiraid to return to their own country. The condition of these Indians is becoming more and more wretched; for while they have not the knowledge, the means, nor much of the inclination necessary to cultivate their lands advantageously, they have an insatiable thirst for ardent spirits ; and there are enough of unprincipled men on our frontiers, who, for the sake of gain, will supply them with the means of drunkenness and destruction. On Monday, rode only twelve miles to Blacksnake Hills. The Indians here have a new mode of disposing of their dead. A scaffold is raised about eight feet high, upon which the dead are placed in rudely-constructed coffins overspread with skins. For several days nothing special occurred. On the twenty-second, we crossed the Nodaway river with a raft; to construct which, and get all things over, took most of the day. To construct a raft, we collect a number of dry logs, fasten them together, side by side, with barks stripped from elm trees; some few men swim across the river, talong with them one end of a rope, while the other end is fastened 19 I I *' f'' .1 "If V * to the raft ; it is then shoved off, the mmm^Jjke othet . side of the river pulling upoQ|hdW]^?^Tne raitiii^iie- nXiy drifted oonnderably down streiun be&iw ftis brought to umd upon the opposite shore. In utiti Buumer they crossed, and re-crossed, until the baggage was carried over. Then follows the swimming over of the horses, which is attended with noise enough — ^hallooing of men, snorting of the horses, and throwing sticks and stones to prevent them, after having gone part of the way over, fiK>m re- turning. We saw many elk, but they were too wary to be ap- proached and too fleet to be chased, and our hunters were not sufficiently successful to obtain any. They are very large, and when their horns are on, make a very majestic appearance. We frequently found their^homs on the prai- rie, some of which were four feet long, with large wide- spreading branches. Monday, 25th, overtook the caravan before night. Crossed the south branch of the Neshnabotana on a raft. Some of the men of the caravan, if not all, were much dis- pleased, -because we did not travel with them on the Sabbath. To express their displeasure, they cut some of the barks, with which the raA they had made was bound together, and set it adrift. Providentially it did not drift far before it lodged against a tree, and, without much loss of time, we repaired it and passed over. May 26th, came to the main branch of the Neshnabo- tana, and commenced making a raft, the finishing of which, and crossing, took most of the following day. The soil of this part of the country is rich, and the grass for our horses excellent; but there are none here to till the ground, nor to gather in the ten thousand tons of hay, which might be made from the spontaneous growth. May 28th, we rode eleven imles and came to the north branch of the N. After we had made a raft, we had a very difficult time of crossing. The water was continually and rapidly rising, and before we finished crossing, the banks were overflowed, to a considerable depth ; and the alluvial soil was rendered too soft to sustain our horses, and they sunk so deep that they could not get along. After searching for a long time, a place was found sufficiently hard to bear up our animals when unloaded. We had to carry our baggage upon our shoulders about fifteen rods, ri f 20 part of the way in water mid deep, going forward and re- turning, until all was carried to better ground ; and then we had to ride one mile to the dry prairie in water one and two feet deep. We rejoiced to find ourselves once more on firm footing, encamped by a stream of clear water, which is rare in this part of the country, and especially at this season of the year. The waters of all this portion of country, especially of the Missouri river and its large tri- butary streams, are very turbid, owing to the nature of the soil over which they pass. A pail full of water, stand- ing half an hour at the seasons of fVeshets, will deposit three eighths of an inch of sediment; and yet the water, when settled, appears to be of good quality and healthy. Our mode of Uving, from day to day, had already neces- sarily become imiform. Dry bread and bacon constituted our breakfast, dinner, and supper. Our bacon we cooked, when we could obtain wood for fire; but when " out of sight of land," that is, when nothing but green grass could be seen, we eat our bacon without cookmg. A very few of the simplest articles of furniture were sufficient for our culinary purposes. The real wants of life are few, artifi- cial ones are numerous. May 30th, drew near to Council Bluffs, and passed down from the high rolling prairie, through a vale two or three miles long, and a half mile wide, into the rich alluvial, and widely extended valley of the Missouri, through a section of country of uncommonly interesting scenery. The mounds, which some have called the work of unknown generations of men, were scattered here in all varieties of forms and magnitudes; and thousands in number, and perhaps I may say ten thousands. Some of these mounds were conical, some elliptical, some square, and some were parallelograms. One group of these attracted my attention more than any others. They were twelve in number, of conical form, with their bases joined, and twenty or thirty feet high. They formed about two-thirds of a circle, with an area of two hundred feet in diameter. If these were bolated, who would not say they are artificial ? But whe^ they are only a group of ten thousand others, which have as much the appearance of being artificial, who will pre- sume to say they are the work of man ? But if they are the work of art, and attest the number, the genius, and perseverance of departed nations, whose works have sur- 21 r Bl, I and re- and then one and ce more water, ciall^at ortion of argetri- latureof stand- deposit water, Ithj. r neces- istituted cooked, " out of )8 oould ery few for our t artifi. ddown >r three al, and section The known sties of f and ounds J were ^ntion er, of thirty , with were whe^ have pre- y are and sur- vived the lapse of ages, we would interrogate the authors ; but no voice replies to ours. All is silent as the midnight- grave. ** The mind seeks in vain for some clue to assist it in unravelling the mystery. Was their industry stimu- lated by the desire to protect themselves against inroads of invaders, or were they themselves the aggressors ?" * Are they the monuments of western Pharaohs, and do they conceal treasures which may yet be brought to light?' There is nothing plainer than that they were never designed as works of defence. But some, while they admit they were not designed for offensive or defensive operations of belligerent powers, suppose they were erected as " mauso- leums, and that the difference in their size was intended to convey an idea of the difference in the relative importance of those whose bones they cover." If this theory is true, the La Trappe on the Mississippi, which I had an oppor- tunity of examining on my northern tour, which is as much as one hundred and fifty feet high, and covering about six acres, must inclose mighty bones, or the bones of a mighty monarch. I would not be understood to dissent from the belief that there are any artificial mounds in the great valley of the west, but I believe there is a great mistake upon this subject. It is said, by those who advocate the belief that they are the work of ancient nations, that they present plain evidence of this, from the fact, that they contain human bones, articles of pottery, and the like, which evince that they were constructed for burying places of the dead. That some of them have been used for bury- ing places, is undoubtedly true ; but may it not be ques- tionable whether they were made, or only selected for burying-places. No one who has ever seen the thousands and ten thousands scattered through the valley of the Mississippi, will ever be so credulous as to believe, that a five hundreth part of them are the work of man. Crossed the Maragine river, which, though very deep, was not so wide, but that we constructed a bridge over it. Made our way many miles through the rich bottom-lands •f the Missouri, and crossed this noble river over against Bellevue, in a large canoe, and swam our horses and mules across, which, considering the width of the river, and the strength of the current, required much effort. Went to the Agency-house, where I was happy to find Brethren Dunbar and Allis, Missionaries of the Pavmees, under the direc- 22 tion of the American Board of Commiitionera for Foreign Missions. There is a Baptist mission here composed of Rev. Moses Merrill and mfe. Miss Brown, and a christbn Indian woman, a descendant of Rev. D. Brainerd's Indians. They are appointed by the Baptist Board to labour among the Otoe Indians, about twenty-five mileB from this place, on the river Platte. These Indians are away from their intended residence, about half the time, on the hunting ex- cursions. A little more than half a mile below the agency, the American Fur Company have a fort, and in connexion with which they have a farming establishment, and large num- bers of cattle and horses, a horse-power mill for grinding com, &c. CHAPTER III. ^ t Continued in this place three weeks, waiting the movements of the Caravan, who made slow progress iu preparing their packages for the mountains. During our continuance here, I frequently walked over the hills bor- dering upon the west of the valley of the Missouri, to enjoy the pure air of the rolling prairies, and to view the ma^iificent prospects unfolded in the vale below. From the summit of those prominences, the valley of the Mis- souri may be traced, until lost in its winding course among the bluffs. In respect to efforts for the religious instruction and conversion of the Indians, I am convinced, from all I can learn of their native character, that the first impressions which the Missionary makes upon them, are altogether im- portant in their bearings on successful labours among them. In things about which they are conversant, they are men ; but about other things they are children ; and like children, the announcement of a new subject awakens their attention, their curiosity, and their energies. We had an opportunity, whilst we continued in this place, to collect much information about the Indians in the Sioux country, from Maj. P. the Agent appointed by Go- 23 venunent to the Yanktont, a band of the Sioux. He appears to be not only intelligent and candid, but also well disposed towards Indian improvement. The following is the substance of the information, which he gave us in re- gard to several tribes to the North and North-west of this place ; that the Omahas are situated upon the Missouri, about one hundred and M/ miles above this place, and number about two thousand. They have been well dispo- sed towards the whites, but, owing to their intercouse with triers and trappers, and abuses which the^r have received from them, thev are becoming more vicious in their habits, and less friendly. And yet, kmd treatment would conciliate their favour, so that there would be nothing to fear, but that there might be amission established among them with fair prospect of success. The Yanktons are an interesting band of the Sioux, of about two thousand people. Their village is to be located on the Vermilion river, where it unites with the Missouri from the north. Maj. P. thinks this would be a very eligi- ble place for a missionary station, and says he will do what is in his power to aid such an enterprize. The Ponca Indians on the south side of the Missouri, at the confluence of the L'eau qui coure, number six or eight hundred, and speak the same language as the Omahas. The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Siouix river, and that on the south of the L'eau qui coure, as high as the country of the Mandan Indians, may be classed under the general head of the Sioux country ; and is inha- bited by the following bands of Sioux, viz : the Yanktons, already mentioned) Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallal- lahs, Siones, and the Hankpapes, who course east ana west from the Mississippi to the Black HiUs, and sometimes as far south as the river Platte. The real number of the relative bands cannot be correctly ascertained, but proba- bly it is from forty to sixty thousand. Their habits are wandering, and they rely exclusively upon the chase for subsistence. Their principal trade is in buffalo robes. The traders have for many years maintained a friendly intercourse with' them, and generally speaking, they are much attached to White men. The Mandans are a much more stationary people than almost any other tribe in this whole region of country, and the opportunity to establish missionaries among them is i; t I- ff ii,. vi- 24 good ; bnt on account of repeated ill treatment, which they have experienced, they are beginning to grow suspicious, and are losing confidence in White men. Our stay in this place was protracted much beyond our expectations. Two weeks after our arrival, the spasmodic cholera broke out with a great degree of malignancy The weather was very warm, and there were showers from day to day. The habits of the men and their accommodations, probably had a tendency to induce the disease. Three died, and undoubtedly many more would have died, had it not been for the blessing attending the assiduous attention of Doctor Whitman, my associate, and the free use of powerful medicines. And had it not been for his success- ful practice, the men would have dispersed, and the Cara- van would have failed of going to the place of rendezvous : this was plainly seen and frankly acknowledged. God in mercy, provided the remedy before he inflicted the scourge. This alarming disease was the means of urging our depar- ture from this place sooner than we otherwise should have done. It was necessary to move firom this place to the prairies, as the only prospect of escaping the farther rava- ges of the disease. Not a single new case occurred after wo re-commenced our journey. Whilst at Bellevue, a man by the name of Garrio, a half- blood Indian chief of the Arickara nation, was shot under very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family were residing in a log cabin on the Papillon river. Six or seven men went down to his house in the night, called him up, took him away half a mile, and shot him with six balls, scalped him and left him unburied. The reason they assigned for doing so, was, that he was a bad man, and had killed White men. If he was guilty, who authorized them to take his life ? The Arickara nation will remem- ber this, and probably take revenge on some innocent per- sons. This, I apprehend, is the way Indian wars are pro- duced. While we charge the Indians with inveterate fero- ciousness and inhuman brutality, we forget the too nume- rous wrongs and outrages committed upon them, T.hich incite them to revenge. They cannot apprehend and do justice to such offenders. Or if they could, would it not be published as a gross Indian murder and aggression, and a war of extermination be commenced against them. When Indian offences are proclaimed, we hear only one side of ^ the story, and the other will not he heard until the last great day. Monday, June 22. After so long delay we re-commen- ced our journey for^the West. The Blaick Hills are to be our next stopping pmce. The Caravan started yesterday. We passed over a rich extensive prairie, but so poorly watered, that we did not find a stream of water tlurough the whole day. In the afternoon we had to ride in a heavy, cold rain, in consequence of which, I became much chilled. Overtook the Caravan, and encamped before nighty on a high prairie, where we could find but Uttle wood, and it was difficult to make a fire. We had some coarse bread made of com, and some bacon fc^ supper. The change from the comforts to the bare necessaries of life was trying; but when I had wrapped myself in jay blankets and laid down upon the ground to repose for the night, 1 was comfortable, and felt thankful to God fOT his goodness. Being now beyond all White inhabitants, in an Indian country, and not knowing what the eventful future may unfold, I thought I could give up all my private interests for the good of the perishing heathen, if I could be instru- mental of their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life or death : I thought I could say, " thy will be done." Felt strong confidence, that God would protect and provide for us, and derived great consolation from the promise, " Lo ! I am with you always." The very pelting of the storm upon our tent had something in it soothing, and calculated to excite the feeling that God was near. Towards noon, on the 24th, went forward on our way, and crossed the Pupillon river, which occasioned much delay to get our baggage, waggons, and animals over. We did not find a suitable place for encamping, untU about sunset, where we could be accommodated with wood and water; and before we could pitch our tent, a thunder- storm, which had been gathering for a long time, came down upon us with great violence, accompanied with wind and hail. The animals of the Caravan fled in different directions, some packed, and some unpacked. I had but just time to unpack my mule and let him go, and it was with much difficulty I could hold my horse, which had become almost frantic under the beating hail, nor did I escape without some contusions. The lightning was very frequent, and the thunder was almost one continual roar. B i ■( m After a while, the fury of the storm abated, and in the dark we pitched our tent, and got our baggage into it, but were not able to make a jfire. We took such supper as we could provide with our coarse bread and bacon, without light and without fire, and laid ourselves down to rest. During the night there were several showers which created rivulets, some of which found their way under our tent. Got a lit- tle sleep towards morning, with which we arose somewhat refreshed. The morning of the 25th was very pleasant, and afforded a good opportunity to dry our baggage, and for the Cara- van to collect together their goods, which were scattered over the prairie. After having spent the forenoon in dry- ing and adjusting them, we went forward, and arrived at the Elkhom, a very considerable river. For conveyance over this river, we constructed a boat of a waggon body, so covered with undressed sldns as to make it nearly water- tight. The method was very good, and we commenced crossing, but night came on before we finished, and there- fore we encamped on the East side. The country here is excellent, and tolerably well supplied with wood. June 26th, continued carrying over our baggage, and got all over half after twelve, after which we travelled ten miles up the Elkhom, and stopped for the night. On the 27th, arose very early and pursued our journey, and made good progress until three P. M. when we met Messrs. Campbell and Sublette with a small Caravan, return- ing from the Black Hills. When mountain-traders meet under such circumstance, there must be mutual exchanges of friendship, more ceremonious and complicated than can be gone through with in the passing " how do you do ?" The two caravans encamped, in due form, and at respect- ful distance from each other. Sabbath, 28th. The Caravans continued here through the day. This gave us an opportunity to rest, and to at- tend to devotional exercises in our tent. On the 29th, passed over, and travelled a good distance up Shell creek. As a traveller, I should be guilty of ne- glect of duty, if I should not give a description of this sec- tion of country, belonging to the Otoes on the east, and the Pawnees on the west. For about twenty-five miles since we crossed the Elkhom, and between this river and the Platte, which are about ten miles apart, there is not a .11 27 single hill. It is rich bottoni'laiidy covered with a luxu- riant growth of grass. No country could be more inviting to the fanner, with only one exception, the want of wood- land. The latitude is sufficiently high to be healthy ; and as the climate grows warmer as we travel West, until we approach the snow-topped mountains, there is a degree of mildness, not experienced Elast of the Alleghany mountains. The time will come, and probably is not iar distant, when this country will be covered with a dense population. The earth was created for the habitation of ma% and for a thea- tre, on which God will manifest his perfections in his moral government among his moral creatures, and therfore the earth, according to divine prediction, shall be given to the people of God. Although infidels may sneer, and scoffers mock, yet God will accomplish Ids designs, and fulfil every promise contained in his word. Tiien this amazing extent of most fertile land will not continue to be the wandering ground of a few thousand Indians, with only a very few acres under cultivation; nor will mUUons of tons of grass grow up to rot upon the ground, or to be burned up with the fire enkindled to sweep over the prairie, to disencumber it of its spontaneous burden. The herds of buffalo which once fattened upon those meadows are gone ; and the deer which once cropped the grass have disappear- ed ; and the antelopes have fled away ; and shall solitude reign here till the end of time ? No : here shall be heard the din of business, and the church-going bell shall sound far and wide. The question is, by whom shall this region of country be inhabited ? It is plain that the Indians, un- der their present circumstances, will never multiply and fill this land. They must be brought under the ii^uence of civilization and Christianity, or they will continue to melt away, until nothing will remain of them but relics found in museums, and some historical records. Philanthropy and the mercy of God plead in their behalf. We were awakened on the 30th, at the first breaking of the day, by the call, " out, out ; gear up your mules." We travelled until one o'clock P. M. more than eight hours, when we halted and breakfasted. We went again on our way, and came to the Loups fork of the Platte, and stop- ped for the night. Most of the country over which we travelled to-day was a rolling prairie. There is nothing in this section of country to interest the geologist. I did not ^ ;! : I 'I h i' see a single stone after passing the Papillion to tliis place, excepting a few small ones in the place where we crossed that stream, and which, on that account, is called Rock^ ford. It is one of the peculiarities of the ^alect of the pe6- pie in the Westernmost states, to call small stones rocks ; and therefore thej speak of throwing a rock at a bird, or at a man. There are no forests in these Western regions : the meadows spread out almost without bounds. There are only here and there some clumps of trees ; and the rivers and smaller streams are skirted . with cotton-wood, elms, and willows. Whatever propriety there once was, there is none now, in calling the Indians children of the forest. The thermometer stood to day, at noon, at 81<> . Wednesday, July Ist. Rested the last n^ht as quietly as I should have done in a civilized country, and upon a good bed. Felt cheerful in committing myself to God, to awake in this, or in the eternal world, as He shall direct. We have a small tent made of coarse cotton cloth, form- ing a cone. After setting this, we stow away our baggage so as to leave a space in the centre, for our lodgings. My bed is made by first spreading down a buffalo-skin, upon this a bear-slmi, then two or three Mackinaw blankets, and my portmanteau constitutes my pillow. We proceeded to-day a few miles up the Loups fork, and crossed over at a good fording place, such as we did not expect to find. The river here is nearly a mile wide. Af- ter going a few miles up the river, we halted for the night. The manner of our encamping is to form a large hollow square, encompassing an area of about an acre, having i!.e river on one side ; tl^ee waggons forming a part of another, coming down to the river ; and three more in the same manner on the opposite side ; and the packages so arranged in parcels, about three rods apart, as to fill up the rear, and the sides not occupied by the waggons. The horses and mules, near the middle of the day, are turned out un- der guard, to feed for two hours ; and the same again to- wards night, until after sun-set, when they are taken up and brought into the hollow square, and fastened with ropes, twelve feet long, to pickets driven firmly into the ground. The men are divided into small companies, sta- tioned at the several parcels of goods and waggons, where they wrap themselves in their blankets and rest for the 20. ^s place, crossed Id Rock'* the pe6- rocks ; I bird, or Jgions: There and the fn-wood, ice was, of the quietl/ npon a God, to direct. h, fonn- ?3. My n, upon ^ets, and wk, and did not ie. Af. 8 night, hollow ing \.e nother, s same Tanged e rear, horses lilt nn- lin to- ken np 1 with to the 3, sta- where >r the night ; the whole however are formed into six divisions to keep guard relieving each other everjr two hours. Ttis is to prevent hostile Indians irom falling upon us by sur> prise, or from coming into the camp by stealth, and taking away either horses or packages of goods. Nothing special on the second. On the third, passed the village of the Tapage and Republican Pawnee Indians- These Indians have buildings which appear substantial and adapted to comfort. Many of the Pawnee Lpups came to us, and received us with great civility and idnd- ness. Big Ax, their second Chief, had charge of this party. He is a man of dignified appearance, and his coimtenance is expressive of intelligence and benevolence. He is very friendly to White men. These Indians were going out upon their summer-hunt, and upon the same route we were pur- suing, and were not willii^ we should go on before them, lest we should frighten away the bufi&ilo. These Indians manifest their friendship in inviting us to feasts ; and as we may attend half a dozen in a day with- out being surfeited, an explanation may not be out of place. Big Ax gave the first invitation. It is not custom- ary for those who provide the feast to sit down with their guests ; therefore. Big Ax and his associates sat in digni- fied silence on one side of the lodge, while those of us who partook of the feast, occupied the centre. The daughters of Big Ax served us on the occasion, and bountifidly hel- ped us with boiled com and beans. Such are their customs, that to avoid giving offence, we must eat all that is set be- fore us, or take it away, and Mr. Fontenelle took what re« mained. In the evening we were invited to two others. The first consisted of boUed com and dried pumpkins, and the other of boiled buffalo meat. I took away what re- mained. We also gave the principal Chiefs a feast, setting before them all the variety which our bacon and coarse bread could furnish, having it in our power to add a dish of coffee, of which luxury we partook for this once on our whole joumey. Amidst the uniformity of the prairies, there is some in- teresting variety. It was interesting to see the various beds in which the river has run, and which it has forsaken while it has formed new ones. Formerly, perhaps not a very few hundred years ago, this river ran a hundred feet high- er than at present; and it is this process which renders these 30 ■1 \r !i I * \i\: rivers so very turbid. The water of Loops fork, however, comparatively speaking, is quite ?lear. The botany of this section of country is very interesting. Since crossing the Elkhom, I have noticed nine different species of grass, most of which are entirely new. The flowering plants are very numerous and beautiful, and especially the rose, which is found of almost every hue. Thermometer, at noon, 90© . Sabbath, July 5th. The Caravan went forward a few miles and encamped. The Indians were constantly calling at our tent through the day. It was painful to witness their poor, degraded condition, ignorant of QoA and salva- tion, and for want of a knowledge of their language, not able to point them to the Saviour, nor to teach them their obligations to their Maker, and their duty to turn to him with their whole heart. I hope and pray that the Pawnee mission may prosper ; that the disposition which Messrs. Dunbar and Allis manifest to go with the Indians, and live as they live, may be followed up, xmtil their teaching and influence are felt, and the Indians shall locate themselves upon their lands, under the influence of Christianity and civilization. The mode which Messrs. D. and A. have adopted of going with the Indians where they go, appears to be the right one, and must be generally adopted, to bring the numerous wandering nations and tribes to the know- ledge of Christ. It is all-important that the Missionary be able to speak to the heathen in the language wherein they were bom. It is also important that the Indians settle down and cul- tivate the soil ; but how can they be induced to do this before they are taught ? Do any say by an Interpreter ? An Inter- preter may be employed for a while, but the missionary must become, as soon as possible, his own interpreter. And why can he not learn the Indian language, as well as the Trader and Hunter ? He can, if he will exercise as much self-de- nial. On the 6th, left the Loups fork very early in the morn- ing in company with the Pawnees, and directed our course South-west for the Platte river. Towards night we hs-d a thunder-storm, with heavy rains, which continued through most of the night ; but under our tent we kept ^rf. and slept so soundly, that we had our meat stolen fro»ii us with- out being awaked ; and in our circumstances, though only about six pounds, it was a sensible loss. 81 [owever, ofthig iing the grass, mts are It which fn, 90O . a few calling Iwitness salva- ge, not m their to him ^awnee Messrs. nd live Qg and nselves itjraud '• have appears bring know- speak 1 bom. d cul- before Inter- r must d why- trader 5lf-de- Qom- onrse Ii8^ a ough and iinth- onl^ Afler we came to the Platte, we pursued our waj up the river, which is broad, but not very deep, as its name indi- cates. The country begins to diminish Jn its fertility, but still is very good. We were kept from making the pro- gress we might, if the Indians would have permitted us to go on and leave them. The men of the Caravan began ^o find fault with the delay, and had reason to do so, on ac- count of the want of food, having nothing to eat but boiled com, and no way to obtain any thing more before finding buffalo. The intellectual powers of these Indians are very good, but need cultivation. They are fond of ornaments and variety, and not having the means of gratifying their vani- ty, as civilized people have, they resort to almost any thing to dt'icorate their persons : such as porcupine quills, beads, wreaths of grass and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists, birds' feathers, and claws of wild beasts ; the claws of a grizzly bear are an ornament of the first order ; and the tails of white wolves are in high estimation : but their most universal and particular ornament is painting their faces with vermtllion. These heathen, as all others, are ignorant of the benign influence of the gospel, and therefore, while they have many interesting traits of character, they are cruel to their old men and women. Their women are compelled to do all the work — ^the men only hunt and go to war. Having but few horses, when they journey, they pack their old men and women, and even the blind and lame, and their dogs. I did not see among these Indians a single person having any natural deformity, nor any one who appeared to be deficient in common sense. July 9th. To-day Big Ax came to my tent and sat by me a long time. Never did 1 so much wish to converse with any man, and tell him about the Saviour, and from the expression of his countenance, I thought he felt the same. But the gifi; of tongues was not imparted to me, and we could only converse with the language of signs, which can be used far better than I had anticipated. Towards the night of the 10th, we had an uncommon storm of thunder, hail, rain, and wind. The horses and mules could not be controlled, and they turned and fled in all directions before the storm. The whole Caravan was scattered: but when the storm abated, they were again I i t I; ^' 32 collected without mach difficulty, and nothing was lost. If any hostile band of Indians had been about us, it would have been easy for them to have made us a prey. But the Lord not only rode upon the storm, but was also near for our defence. The scene was alarming, and yet grand and truly sublime. Sabbath, 12th. We are in a land of dangers, but God is our Preserver, and how desirable it is that his mercies should be had in grateful remembrance, and that portion of time, which He has set apart as holy, should be observed as such. The Caravan travelled a part of the^day, but were under the necessity of stopping in consequence of rain, which wet their peuskages. It is worthy of notice, that there have been various providences, which have thus far prevented the Caravanfrom travelling much on the Sabbath. But this day has been one of great confusion and wicked- ness. In consequence of the men being drenched with rain, whiskey was dealt out freely, to keep them from taking cold. Most of them became much excited, and one of the men, who took an active part in killing Garrio, stabbed a man with a full intent to have pierced his heart ; but the knife, by striking a rib, turned aside and only made a deep flesh-wound. I think I know the feelings of David, when he expressed a strong desire after the sanctuary of God, and to dwell in his tabernacle. July 14th. The announcement of buffalo spread cheer- fulness and animation through the whole Caravan, and to men whose very life depended on the circumstance, it was no indifferent event. From the immense herds of these wild animals, dispersed over these beautiful fields of nature, we were to derive our subsistence. Although several were seen to day, yet our hunters were not very successful in obtaining many. I had heard of the prairie horse-fly, but was not aware, that it would be so very annoying, or, I may say, so very tormenting to our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the point of a lancet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brushed off, the blood immediately gushes out. When the Caravan is in close company, there being about two hundred horses and mules, the number of the flies is so divided, that they are not much felt : but when for any purpose a horse is separated from the company, he is severely tormented until f to 33 lut God mercies portion •bserved la^, but of rain, ice, that thus far •abbath. mcked- Bd with staking e of the tbbed a but the > a deep pressed Iwellin cheer- and to it was f these lature, leveral :e88ful iware, very of the ashed fuvan orses :they se is until he returns. On one occasion, when I rode forward to find a crossing-place over a deep, muddy stream of water, these flies came around my horse in such swarms,, that they put him in an agony, so that he became frantic, and I was obliged to return in full speed, otherwise I could not have kept upon my saddle. I have no doubt that a horse left alone, any considerable time, in this section of country, in the season of these flies, would be killed. The next day, we journeyed as usual, and about noon, arrived at the forks of the Platte. We saw a large herd of buffalo, from which we obtained a good supply of excellent meat. The bufialoes present with their shaggy shoulders, necks and heads, a very majestic appearance, and if their na- tures were unknown, their appearance would be terriflo. But they are timid and inoffensive, showing no disposition to injure any person, except in self-defence, when wounded, and closely pursued. Their strength is great; and al- though they look clumsy, they run very swifitly. It re- quires a horse of more tlmn ordinary speed, to outrun them for any considerable time. Although we are in the section of country where we had fears of finding the Arickara Indians, the death of whose Chief has been mentioned, and who have been residing near this place for several months past, yet we have seen no Indians since we left the Pawnees, it is supposed they have gone far up the south fork of the Platte, to avoid the United States' dragoons, under the command of Col. Dodge, who are on their way to find them, to call them to ac- count for their conduct towards White men, and to form with them a treaty of peace. But they intend to keep out of the way of the dragoons, and therefore we hope to pass unmolested. The antelopes, some of which we have seen for several days past, are becoming very numerous. They are rightly named ; for their speed exceeds any animal I have ever seen. Our hounds can do nothii4[ in giving them the chase ; so soon are they left far in the rear, that they do not follow them more than ten or twenty rods, before they return looking ashamed of their defeat. Our hunters oc- casionally take some of them by coming upon them by stealth. When they are surprised, they start forward a very small space, and then turn, and with high-lifted heads, stare for a few seconds at the object which has alarmed b2 y ! li Hi; ^1 ■ 4 34 them, and then, with a half-whistling finuff, bound oSf seeming to be as mnoh upon wings as upon feot. Thev resemble the goat, but are far more beautiful. Though they are of different colours, yet they are generally red, and have a large, fine, prominent eye. Their flesh is good for food, and about equals venison. Commenced our journey on the 18th, at our usual early hour, to travel on until near noon before breakfast. From the change of vegetation of various kinds, birds, &;c. it is evident we are ascending into higher regions of country, and an atmosphere more resembling that of the New Eng- land States. As we advance the flowering plants are be- coming less numerous ; and although the middle of the day is very warm, yet the nights and mornings are more cool. The ascent is so gradual, that the change is not perceptibe. Rocks begin to appear, and still we are far from the Rocky Mountains. Limestone of a light brown colour is found in the bluffs, laying in horizontal i^rata, which might be easily worked, and to any extent. Very small black gnats, hardly discernible by the naked eye, for some days past, have been numerous and very annoying ; and the bite is very poisonous. f Badgers inhabit this part of the country, and from the many holes, which they dig in the ground for their dwel- lings, they must be very numerous, though we have seen only a few, and have killed but one. 'n*ey keep near their holes, and run into them on the least ppproach of danger. It is of the genus ursus, about the size of the marmot, or what is often called the woodchuck, of a silvery-gray co- lour, with short legs, and in its whole aspect is interesting. I had not an opportunity to learn many of its habits. A small animal called the prairie dog, abounds in this sec- tion of country. It takes its name, not from its appear- ance, but from its barking, which is like that of a very small dog. It is of a brown colour, and its fur is of supe- rior fineness. It is very shy, and difficult to be taken. Were it not for this last circumstance, I should think it might be an important article of traffic. Passed, on the 2 1st, many uncommonly interesting bluffs composed of Indurated clay ; many of them very high, with perpendicular sides, and in almost every imagi- nable form. Some appeared like strong fortifications with high citadels ; some like stately edifices with lofty towers. .•>."S. 35 md ofl^ Thev though fed, and )od for al early l^rom :o. it is lountry, Eng- re be- of the e more is not are far brown i^rata. Very I had never before seen any thing like them of olay forma- tion. And what adds to their beauty is, that the clay of which they are composed, is nearly white. Such is the smoothness, and regularity, and whiteness, of the perpen- dicular sides and off-sets, and such the regularity of their straight and curved lines, that one can hardly believe that they are not the work of art. It was a very warm day. The thermometer stood at noon, at 90o , and at five o'clock P. M. at lOQo . There were no prairie winds as usual. Almost every day, winds blow over the prairies, like sea breezes, or trade winds. They generally commence about eight in the morning, and continue through the day. These winds render it comfort- able travelling, although the thermometer may range high. Encamped to-day near what I shall call the old castle, which is a great natural curiosity. It is situated upon the south side of the Platte, on a plain, some miles distant from any elevated land, and covers more than an acre of ground, and is more than fifty feet high. It has, at the distance of the width of the river, all the appearance of an old enor- mous building, somewhat dilapidated ; but still you see the standing walls, the roof, the turrets, embrasures, the dome, and almost the very windows ; and the guard houses, large, and standing some rods in front of the main building. You unconsciously look around for the enclosure, but they are all swept away by the lapse of time — ^for the inhabi- tants, but they have disappeared ; all is silent and solitary. Although you correct your imagination, and call to re- membrance that you are beholding the work of nature, yet before you are aware, the illusion takes you again, and again your curiosity is excited to know who built this fabric, and what have become of the by-gone generations. I found it impossible to divest myself of such impressions. The long- er, and the more minutely I examined it, the more I saw to admire ; and it reminded me of those descriptions of power and grandeur in ruins, of which we have read of ancient times and nations. Encamped at noon of the 22nd, near another of nature's wonders. It has been called the chimney ; but I should say, it ought to be called beacon-hill, from its resemblance to what was beacon-hill in Boston. Being anxious to have a near view, although in a land of dangers, I conclu- ded to take an assistant and pass over the river to it. I'he :! :! V ' : i 36 river where we crossed was abont a mile wide, shallow and full of quicksand, but we passed it without any particular difficulties. We rode abont three miles over a level plain, and came to the base. This distance irom the other side of the river did not appear more than a mile, so deceptive are distances over plains without any landmarks. This beacon-hill has a conical formed base of about half a mile in circumference, and one hundred and fifty feet in height ; and above this a perpendicular column, twelve feot square, and eighty feet high ; maldng the height about two hun- dred and thirty feet. We lefl our horses at the base, and ascended to the perpendicular. It is formed of indurated clay, or marl, and in some parts, is petrified. It is of a light chocolate, or rufous colour; in some parts >vbite. Near the top were some handsome stalactites, at which m^ assistant shot, and broke off some pieces, of which I have taken a small specimen. We descended, and having fini- shed my survey, had but just mounted our horses, when we saw two bands of buffalo, six or eight hundred in num- ber, coming full speed towards us, taking their course down the river. We knew some body must be pursuing them, and, as from indications for two days past, we had sus- pected Indians near, we thought it would be the safest for us, to make and secure a speedy retreat to the Caravan, and set off in haste for the river, which at the nearest point was two miles distant. Very soon we saw a man on horse- back coming full speed towards us — he stopped and gave a signal for others behind him to hasten on, and at once we saw a band of men coming full rush. We put our horses to their utmost speed, and when we thought our re- treat to the river fully secured, we stopped and took an ob- servation, with a large spy-glass, which we had taken the precaution to have with us, and found they were White men, who had come from a fort of the American Fur Company, at the Black Hills, to meet the Caravan. Mr. Fontenelle, the Commander of the Caravan, saw the movement, was alarm- ed for our safety, and came out in all haste, with a number of armed men to our assistance. But all resulted in friends meeting friends. There were some Ogallallah Indians near us, who came to our camp in the evening. Ther- mometer 90*. July 23rd. After travelling a few miles, we encamped near Scott's bluffs. These are the termination of a high i m range of land running from south to north. They are very near the river, high and abrupt, and what is worthy of notice, there is a pass through the range a short distance back from the river, the width of a common road, with perpendicular sides, two or three hundred feet high. It appears as though the part forming the bluffs had been cut off, and moved a few rods to the north. Instead of jour- neying, the naturalist would desire weeks to examine the interesting scenery of this section of country, and the more mhiute his examination, the more would his curiosity be gratified. This whole country appears to abound in magnesia, so that Epsom salts are found in almost every part ; in some places in large quantities in a crystalized state. Our hor- ses and mules were disposed to make these a substitute for common salt. Thermometer to-day stood at 90". While we were encamped at noon of the 24th, and our horses and mules were turned out under guard, and we were preparing our breakfast, or what should be dinner, we were alarmed with the call, " secure your animals ! sectire your animals !" I looked around to see what was the cause of the alarm, and saw at about a mile and a half distance, a considerable number of Indians coming on horseback at full speed. We had not more than half secured our ani- mals and prepared for defence, when the Indians were close upon us ; whether friends or foes we could not tell, until they were nearly within rifle-shot, when they, according to custom, as an expression of friendship, fired their guns into the air, and then rushed into our camp, and exchanged salutations of peace. They were Ogallallahs, headed by eight of their Chiefs. They were clad in their war habili- ments, and made somewhat of a terrific appearance. The Chiefs dined with us, were very talkative among themselves; for, not having any good interpreter, we could not join in conversation with them. Every thing, however, went on pleasantly, and to mutual satisfaction. They told us their whole village was only a few hours' travel ahead of us, going to the Black Hills for the purpose of trading. July 2.5th. The heat was ^ ery oppressive in the middle of the day, there not being as much wind as common. Thermometer 92**. Towards evening came to the main village of the Ogallallahs cons'stiag of more than two thou- sand persons. These villages are not stationary, but move I 38 from place to place, as inclination or convenience may dictate. Their lodges are comfortable and easily transpor- ted. They are composed of eight or ten poles about eigh- teen feet long. When they encamp, these poles are set up in a circular form, the small ends fastened together making an apex, and the large ends are spread out so as to enclose an area of about twenty feet in diameter. The whole is covered with their coarse skins, which are elk, or buffalo, taken when they are not good for robes. A fire is made in the centre, a hole being left in the top of the lodge for the smoke to pass out. AH that they have for household furniture, clothing, and skins for becb, is deposited around, according to their ideas of propriety and convenience. Generally not more than one family occupies a lodge. These are the finest looking Indians I have ever seen. They came around us in multitudes, and manifested great curiosity to see whatever we had. I did not know why, but my boots were particularly examined, probably they had never seen any before, bs moccasins are worn, not only by Indians, but also by traders and hunters. Sabbath, 26th. The Caravan moved on a little way to the crossing place of the Platte, near Larama's fork in the Black Hills, and encamped for the day. This gave us an opportunity for reading and devotion. Some of the Ogal- lallahs came to my tent while I was reading the Bible, and observed me so attentively, that I was led to believe that they were desirous to know what I was doing, and why I was spending my time in retirement. I endeavoured to make them understand, by the language of signs, that I was reading the book of God, which teaches us how to worship him, and I read to them aloud, and showed them how they must read, and they pronounced letters and words after me. When we in this way read the word. Lord, I endea- voured to teach them its meaning, and that He is to be worshipped. After spending some time in these exerci- ses, I sang a hymn, which greatly interested them. They took me by the hand, and the expression of their coun- tenance seemed to say, we want to know what all this means, and why you employ your time so differently from others? My spirit was pained within me, and I anxiously desired to understand their language, that I might tell them about Christ, the only Saviour. The en- quiry arose forcibly in my mind, why will not some of the '1.1 many Christian young men of the East, exercise so much self-denial, if it can be called self-denial, as to come and teach them the way of salvation ? Would it be a cross to be engaged in such heavenly work ? In such a cross what Christian would not glory ? And if there should be any tribulations attendant on the enterprize, would they not, like St. Paul, glory in tribulations ? great why, they , not H- CHAPTER IV. 'to ■ The Black Hills, There is nothing in the colour of the soil or rocks to ^ve them this name, but they are so called from their being covered with shrubby cedars, which give them a dark appearance, when seen at a distance. The alluvial soil upon the rivers and in the valleys is very good, but upon the higher lauds and hills, the soil is tMn and rather barren, and in many parts Ml of stones which are worn smooth by the action of water, and are of various kinds and forms. One spur of the Rocky Mountains is seen from this place, which is forty or fifty miles distant, and is probably five thousand feet high. A day of indulgence was given to the men, in which they drink as much as they please, and conduct as they may choose. It was found that ardent spirits excited so many evil spirits, that they may be called legion. A Mr. G. shot a man by the name of Van B. with the full intention to kill him. The ball entered the back and came out at the side. Van B. exclaimed, " I am a dead man ;" and after a little pause said, " no, I am not hurt." G. on this, seized a rifle to finish the work, but was preven- ted by some men standing by, who took it from him and fired it into the air. July 28th. The day of indulgence being past, a quiet day followed. The exhilaration was followed by consequent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which rose so high yes- terday, ebbed to-day proportionably low. The men were seen lounging about in listless idleness, and could scarcely be roused to the business of making repairs and arrange- ments for the long journey yet before us. The Indians II 40 were active, and manifested a disposition to be sociable and kind, and also to open a trade with ua in various arti- cles, such as moccasins, belts, and dressed skins ; and wanted in return knives, awls, combs, vermillion &c. Jul/ 29th. The Indians had a bufifo.lo and dog dance. I witnessed the former, and was content to dispense with the latter. In the buffalo dance, a large number of young men, dressed with the skins of the neck and head of buffa- loes, with their horns on, moved around in a dancing march. Thej shook their heads, made the low bellowing of the buffalo, wheeled, and jumped. At the same time men and women sung a song, accompanied with the beating of a sort of drum. I cannot saj I was much amused to see how well they could imitate brute beasts, while ignorant of God and salvation. The impressive enquiry was constantly on my mind, what will become of their immortal spirits ? Rational men imitating beasts, and old gray-headed men marshalling the dance, and enlightened Whites encouraging them by giving them intoxicating spirits, as a reward for their good performance. I soon retired, and was pleased to find, that only a small part of the Indians took any part in the dance. One of the men, whom I tried to instruct last Sabbath, came to me again, and wished me to instruct him once more, which I did, and endeavoured to point him to God ; and sang the hymn, ** Watchman tell us of the night." He, and some others with him, shook hands with me, as a token of their satis&ction. He went away and brought others with him, and I went through the same exercise again ; and they again shook hands with me. This was several times repeated. These Indians appear not only friendly to White men, but also towards each other. I saw no quarrelling among them. Their minds are above the ordinary stamp, and the forms of their persons are fine. It is true they are heathen, in all the guilt of sin, and with- out God in the world, and without hope ; but in decency and politeness, as well as in many other particulars, they differ from those Indians on our frc 'ers, who have had more intercourse with bad White m . CHAPTER V. ,.' i- Augnst 12th. We arose at the first breaking of the day, and continued our forced marches. Although we were emerging from the mountains, still peaks covered with per- petual snow were seen in almost every direction, and the temperature of the air was uncomfortable. I found to-day some haudsome calcedony, of which I took a specimen ; and also green ntone, quartz, and trap in large quantities. In the afternoon, came to the Green river, a branch of the Colorado, in latitude 42", where the Caravan hold their rendezvous. This is in a widely extended valley, which is pleasant, and the soil sufficiently fertile for cultivation if, the climate was not so cold. It is tike the country we have i r -!''*l 46 passed through, an almost entire prairie, with some woods skirtiDg the streams of water. The American Fur Company have between two and three hundred men constantly in and about the mountains, engaged in trading, hunting, and trapping. These all as- semble at rendezvous, and bring in their furs, and take new supplies, for the coming year, of clothing, amunition, and goods for trade with the Indians. But few of these ever return to their country and Mends. Most of them are con- stantly in debt to the Company, and are unwilling to return without a fortune ; and year after year passes away, while they are hoping for better success. Here were assembled many Indians belonging to four different nations ; the Utaws, Shoshones, Nez Perces, and Flatheads ; who were waiting for the Caravan to exchange furs, horses, and dressed skins, for various articles of mer^ chandize. ^ While we continued in this place, Doct. Whitman was called to perform some very important surgical operations. He extracted an iron arrow, three inches long, from the back of Capt. Bridger, which he had received in a skirmish three years before, with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a difficult operation in consequence of the arrow being hooked at the point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous substance had grown around it. The doctor pursued the operation \nth great self-possession and perseverance ; and Capt. Bridger manifested equal firmness. The Indians looked on while the operation was proceeding, with coun- tenances indicating wonder, and when they saw the arrow, expressed their astonishment in a Lunner peculiar to them- selves. The skill of Doct. Whitman, undoubtedly made upon them a favourable impression. He also took another arrow from under the shoulder 01" one of the hunters, which had been there two years and a half. After these opera- tions, calls for surgical and medical aid were constant every hour in the day. ,j After spending a few days in collecting and digesting' information in regard to this country and the condition of the people, we had an interesting interview with the Chiefs of the Nez Perces and Flatheads, and laid before them the object of our appointment, and explained to them the be- nevolent desires of Christians concerning them. We then enquired whether they wished to have Teachers come among 47 them and instruct them in the knowledge of God, his wor- ship, and the way to be saved ; and what thej would do to aid them in their labours. The oldest Chief of the Flatheads arose, and said, he was old, and did not expect to know much more ; he was deaf and could not hear, but his heart was made glad, very glad, to see what he had never seen before, a man near to God, meaning a 'Minister of the gospel. Next arose, Insala, the most influential Chief among the Flathead nation, and said, he had heard, a man near to God was coming to visit them, and he, with some of his people joined with some White men, went out three days' journey to meet him, but missed us. A war-party of Crow Indians came upon them, and took away some of iheir horses, and one from him which he greatly loved, but now he forgets all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near to God. There was a short battle, but no lives lost. The first chief of the Nez Perces, Tai-quin-watish, arose, and said, he had heard from White men a little about God, which had only gone into his ears ; he wished to know enough to have it go down into his heart, to influence his life, and to teach his people. Others spoke to the same import, and they all made as many promises as we could desire. The Nez Perce and Flathead Indianspresent a promi^g field for missionary labour, which is white for the harvest, and the indications of Divine Providence in regard to it are plain, by their anxiety to obtain Christian knowledge. Ta- king the various circumstances under deliberate and pray- erful consideration, in regard to the Indians, we came to the conclusion, that, though many other important stations might be found, this would be one. So desirable did this object appear, that Doct. Whitman proposed to return with the Caravan and to obtain associates to come out with him the next year, with the then returning Caravan, and estab- lish a mission among these people, and by so doing, save at least a year, in bringing the gospel among them. In view of the importance of the object, 1 readily consented to the proposal, and to go alone with the Indians the remain- der of my exploring tour. Dr. Whitman on further con- sideration felt some misgivings about leaving me to go alone with the Indians, lest if any calamity should befall me, he should be blamed by the Christian public. I told him to give himse}^ no uneasiness upon this subject ; for 4R ■I. •i ;; *ll we could not go safely together without Divine protection, and with it, I could go alone. I felt no reluctance to the undertaking; having a oonftdenoe that the presence of God would go with me, and that He would in his provi- dence, provide for, and protect me. Met withfthe Cldefs again by appointment, and had much the same conversaticu as before. I stated to them the con- templated return of Doct. Whitman. They were much pleased, and promised ^o assist me, and to send a convoy with me from their country to Fort Walla Walla on the Columbia river. Thev selected one of their principal young men for my particular assistant, as long as I should have need of him, who was called Kentuc ; and I engaged a vayageury who understood English, and also Nez Perce sufficiently well to interpret in common business, and some of the plun truths o: our holy religion, to go with me while I should continue with these tribes. We did not call together the chiefs of the Shoshones and Utwas, to propose the subject of missions among them, lest we should excite expectations which would not soon be fulfilled. We were more cautious upon this subject, because it is difficult to make an Indian understand the (Merenee between a proposal and promise. The Shoshones are a very numerous nation, and ap- pear friendly. They are probably most destitute of the necessaries of life, of any Indians West of the moun- tains. Their country lies south-west of the south-east branch of the Columbia, and is said to be the most barren of auy part of the country in these western regions. They are often called Snakes and Root-Diggers, from being driven to these resorts to sustain life ; and parts of the year they suffer greatly from hunger and cold. They are more squalid than any Indians 1 have seen ; but their poverty does not lessen their need of salvation through Christ. The Utwas are decent in their appearance, and their country which is toward Santa Fe, is said to be tole- rably good. A few days after our arrival at the place of rendezvous, and when all the mountain men had assembled, another day of indulgence was granted to them, in which all re- straint was liud aside. These days are the climax of the hunter's happiness. I will relate an occurrence which took place near eveuii^, as a specimen of mountain life. A hunter who moui and or 1 Car8( woul tedh conta ball throi the 49 t who goes technically hy the name of the great bully of tho mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle, and challenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutchman, to light him in single combat. Kit Carson, an American, told him if he wished to die, he would accept the challenge. Shunar defied him — C. moun- ted his horse, and with a loaded pistol rushed into clone contact, and both almost at the same instant fired. C's ball entered S's hand, came out at the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow. S's ball passed over the head of C, and while he went for another pistol, 8hu- uar begged that his life might be spared. Such scenes, sometimes from passion, and sometimes for amusement, make the pastime of their wild and wandering life. They appear to have sought for a place where, as they would say, human nature is not oppressed by the tyranny of re%ion, and pleasure is not awed by the frown of virtue. The fruits are visible in all the varied forms to which human nature, without the restrahits of civil government, and cul- tivated and polished society, may be supposed to yield. In the absence of all those motives, which they would feel in moral and reli^ous society, refinement, pride, a sense of the worth of character, and even conscience, give place to unrestrained dissoluteness. Their toils and privations are so great, that they are not disposed to take upon them- selves the labour of climbing up to the temple of science. And yet they are proficients in one study, the study of pro- fuseness of language in their oaths and blasphemy. They disdain common-place phrases which prevail among the impious vulgar in civilized countries, and have many set plu^ses, which they appear to have manufactured among themselves, which they have committed to memory, and which, in their imprecations, they bring into almost every sentence, and on all occasions. By varying the tones of their voices, they make them expressive of joy, hope, grief, and anger. In their broils among themselves, which do not happen every day, they would not be ungenerous. They would see "fair play," and would "spare the last eye ;" and would not tolerate murder, unless drunkenness, or great provocation could be pleaded in extenuation of guilt. Their demoralizing influence with the Indians has been lamentable, and they have imposed upon them, in all the C 50 ways that sinfal propensities dictate. It is said they have sold them packs of cards at high prices, calling them the bihle, and on almost any occasion when their wishes have beci. resisted, they have threatened them with the wrath of Cfod. If these things are true in many instances, yet from personal observation, I should beUeve, their more common mode of accomplishing their wishes has been by flattery and presents. The most of them squander away their wages in ornaments for their women and children. The Indians, with whom I was to travel, having ap- pointed the 2l8t to commence their journey for their coun- try, a few days were occupied in writing to my fiimily, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and other friends ; and also in making preparations for my journey to Walla Walla. While we continued in this place, though in the middle of the day it was warm, yet the nights were frosty, and ice frequently formed. :l-h CHAPTER VI. August 21st, commenced'our journey in company with C'aptain Bridger, who goes with about fifty men, six or eight days* journey on our route. Instead of going down on the south-west side of Lewis' river, we concluded to take our course northerly for the Trois Tetons, which are tliree very high mountains, covered with perpetual snow, sepa- rated from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and are seen at a very great distance; and from thence to Salmon river. On the 22nd, I parted with Doct. Whitman, who return- ed with the Caravan to the United States. My anxious desire was, that the Lord would go with him and make his way prosperous, and make him steadfast to the object of his return, until it should be accomplished ; and that, with next year's Caravan, he might come with associates into this promising field, and they together reap a plentilul har- vest. To-day we travelled twenty miles, through a some- what barren country, and encamped upon a small stream of water, one of the upper branches of the Columbia river. It was interesting to find myself, for the first time, upon 51 the waters of this noble river. The Indiana were very at- tentive to all my wants— 'took the entire care uf my packed animals, cooking, &c. They preserve particular order in their movements. The lirst Chief leads the way, the next Chiefs follow, then the common men, and after these, the women and children. The place assigned me was with the first Chief Found some buffalo to-day, of \7h\0h our men killed a small number. These were a timely supply, as our pro- visions were becoming scarce. The principal Chief of the Flatheads kindly furnished me with a horse to relieve mine. Sabbath, August 23rd. Had an opportunity for rest and devotional exercises. In the afternoon we had public worship with Captain Bridger's compai>y. who understood English. The men conducted with great propriety, and listened with attention. I did not feel any disposition to upbraid them for their sins, but endeavoured affectionately to shew them, that they are unfit for heaven, and that they could not be happy in the employments of that holy place, unless they should first experience a great moral change of heart by the gru^e of God, since the only source of happi- ness in heaven consists in serving and glorifying God for ever and ever. The place of our encampment was such as would naturally fill the mind with solemnity, just above a very deep and narrow defile which we had to pass, called by the hunters, Kenyan. So high were the mountains, that some of them were tipped with perpetual snow, and so narrow the passage, that twilight shades obscure the view. The distance through must occupy more than a half day's journey. Arose very early on the 24th, and commenced our way through the narrow defile, firequently crossing and re-cross- ing a large stream of water, which flows in the Snake river. The scenery was wild, and in many parts sublime — mountains of rock almost perpendicular, shooting their heads up into the regions of perpetual snow, and in one place projecting over our path, if a zigzag trail can be called tt path. Often we had to pass over the sides of mountains, which incline at an angle of 45* toward the stream of wa- ter below, and down which, packed mules have fallen, and were dashed upon the rocks. I endeavoured to guide my Indian horse so cautiously, that he became unmanageable. 52 being resolved to have Ms own method of choosing the way. I was under the necessity of dismounting, and making the best of my way along. But on farther acquaintance with Indian horses, I learned that their dashing mode of going ahead, even in dangerous places, was preferable to the most cautious management of the American. For some distance I was much annoyed with the strong scent of sulphuretted hydrogen, and soon saw at the foot of the mountain, under the bed of gypsum, a large sulphur spring, which sent up as much as thirty gallons of water per minute. Arcund this spring were large quantities of incrusted sulphur, and so strongly is the water saturated, that it colours the water of the river, on the side next to the spring, a greenish yellow, for more than a mile below. We passed more wooded-land to-day, than all before, since we left Rock Independence ; among which is Nor- way pine, balsam fir, double spruce, and common poplar, some low cedar and mulberry shrubs, and various species of shrubbery, which are not found in the United States. The Indians were very kind, and seemed to vie with each other to see which could do the moat for my comfort, so that they more than anticipated my wants. Two little girls brought me a quart of strawbenies, a rare dish for the sea- son of the year ; and an Indian brought me some service berries, wluch are pleasantly sweet, and somewhat resem- ble whortle-berries. We encamped upon a fertile plain, surrounded by mountains, where three years before, three men were killed by a small war party of Blackfeet Indians. There were seven of the White men, and when they saw the Blackfeet, they all fled in different directions, and by so doing, emboldened the Indians to the pursuit ; had they stood firm and combined, it is probable they would have escaped unhurt. >■ " ' August 2oth. We travelled four hours to another branch of Lewis' or Snake river, and encamped in a large pleasant valley, commonly called Jackson's large Hole. It is fertile, and well watered with a branch of Lewis' river coming from the south-east, and another of considerable magnitude, coming from the cast north-east, which is the outlet of Jackson's lake, which is a very considerable body of water, lajdng buck of the Trois Tetons. There are also many very large springs of water of uncommon clearness, which issue fi-om the foot of the surrounding mountains. 53 osing the d maloDg aaintauce mode of ferable to le strong he foot of sulphur of water ntities of laturated, next to lie below. 11 before, h is Nor- n poplar, 8 species 3d States, vith each ft, so that ttle girls r the sea- le service it resem- ile plain, )re, three Indians, they saw md by so had they aid have another I a large :e Hole, is' river iderable ih is the )le body are also eamess, antaius. This vale is well supplied with grass of excellent quality, which was very grateful to our horses and mules, and the avidity with which they helped themselves seemed to say, they would be remunerated for past deprivations. Flax is a spontaneous production of this country. In ev^ery thing, except that it is perennial, it resembles the flax which is cultivated in the United States — the stalk, the bowl, the seed, the blue flower, closed in the day time, and open in the evening and morning. The Indians use it for making Ashing nets. Fields of this flax might be managed by the husbandman in the same manner as mea- dows for hay. It would need to, be mowed like grass; for the roots are too large, and run too deep into the earth, to be pulled up as ours is, and an advantage, which this would have, is, that there would be a saving of ploughing and sowing. Is it not worthy of the experiment of our agricultural societies. Kentuc, my Indian, brought me to-day some very good currants wliich were a feast in tliis land. There are seve- ral species, yellow, pale red, and black. The yellow and pale red were the best flavoured. We continued in this encampment three days, to give our animals an opportunity to recruit, and for Captain Brid- ger to fit and send out several of his men into the moun- tains to hunt and trap. When I reflected upon the proba- bility, that I should not see them again in this world, and also that most of them would never return to their friends again, but would find their graves in the mountains, my heart was pained for them, and especially at their thoughtlessness about the great things of the eternal world, I gave each of them a few tracts, for which they appeared grateful, and said they would be company for them in their lonely hours ; and as they rode away, I could only lift up my heart for their safety and salvation. While we continued here, I took an Indian and went up to the top of a very high mountain to take a view of the scenery around. The prospect was as extensive as the eye could reach, diversified with mountains, hills, and plains. Most of the mountains were covered with woods, but the hills and plains were covered with grass, presenting less of bright green, however, than might be expected, if the summers on this side of the mountains were favoured with rains, as on the east. The Rocky Mountains at the 54 i I I "I east, presented the appearance of an immensely large bank of snow, or large luminous clouds skirting the horizon. The Trois Tetons were in full view, and not very far dis- tant at the north. They are a cluster of very high pointed mountair s, not less than ten thousand feet, rising almost perpendicularly, and covered with snow ; five in number, but only three of them are so very l^igh, as to be seen at a great distance, and therefore take the above name. Here I spent much time in looking over the widely extended and varied scenery, sometimes filled with emotions of the sub- lime, in beholding the towering mountains; sometimes with pleasure in tracing the windings of the streams in the vale below ; and these sensations frequently gave place to astonishment, in viewing the courses in which the rivers fiow on their way unobstructed by mountain barriers. After some hours occupied in this excursion, I descended to the en- campment, much gratified with what I had seen of the works of God. The soU in this valley and upon the hills is black and rich, and the time will come, when the solitude which now prevails, will be lost in the lowing of herds, and bleating of flocks, and the plough will cleave the clods of these hills and vales ; and from many altars will ascend the incense of prayer and praise. Tai-quin-wa-tish took me to his com- pany of horses, and gave me one in token of his fiiendship, and probably not without the motive to enlist me in their favour. The horse was finely made, and of the beautiful colour of intermixed cream and white, t August 28th, removed camp, and passed over a moun- tain so high, that banks of snow were but a short distance from our trail. When we had ascended two-thirds of the way, a number of buffalo which were pursued by our In- dians, came rushing down the side of the mountain, through the midst of our company. One ran over a horse, on the back of which was a child, and threw the child far down the descent, but it providentially was not materially injured. Another ran over a packed horse, and wounded it deeply in the shoulder. The buffalo are naturally timid, yet when they have laid their course, and by being affrighted are running at full speed, it is seldom they change their direction, let what will be presented. Our descent was through woods more dense than those on the other side, and the most so of any since we left the waters of the Missouri. Many parts of the descent were of aim rou| and ma^ Ho mei am 55 Tge bank horizon. r far dia- 1 pointed tg almost nnmber, seen at a Here nded and the snb- >nietime9 ns in the ! place to vers flow fter some the en- le works I is black le which bleating ese hills icense of lis com- endship, in their >eautiful I moun- iistance 8 of the our In- through on the r down ujured. deeply id, yet righted B their those eft the rere of almost impassible steepness ; and part of the way down a rough, deep ravine, in which a stream of water commences and increases from springs and rivulets to considerable magnitude, and winds its way through the valley of Pierre's Hole ; in the upper part of which we made our encamp- ment among wUlows in the prairie vale. August 29th, removed our encampment, and travelled live hours along this valley to the place, where two years before, two Fur companies held their, rendezvous. Pierre's Hole is an extensive level country, of rich soil, and well watered with branches of Lewis' river ; is less frosty than any part we have gone through this side the rocky chain of mountains. The valley is well covered with grass, but like most other places is deficient in woodland, having only a scanty supply of cotton wood, and willows scattered along the streams. The valley extends around to the north- west, as far as the eye can reach. We expected to have found buffalo in this valley, but saw none. As parties of Black- feet warriors often range this way, it was probable they had lately been here, and frightened them away. As we were on )iii • 1-' from our last encampment, I was shown the place V e > the men of the Fur companies, at the time of their .uuuezvous two years before, had a battle with the Blackfeet Indians. Of the Blackfeet party there were about sixty men, and more than the same number of women and children ; of the White men in the valley there were some few hundred who could be called into action. From the information gvien me, it appeared that these Indians were on their way through this valley, and unexpectedly met about forty hunters and trappers going out from rendezvous to the south-west on their fall and winter hunt. The In- dians manifested an unwillingness to fight, and presented them tokens of peace ; but they were not reciprocated. The Indians who came forward to stipulate terms of peace, were fired upon and killed. When the Indians saw their danger, they fled to the cotton-wood trees and willows, which were scattered along the stream of water, and taking the advantage of some fallen trees, constructed as good de- fence as time and circumstances would permit. They were poorly provided with guns, and still more poorly with am- munition. The trappers keeping out of reach of their ar- rows, and being well armed with the best rifles, made the contest unequal, and still more unequal, when, by an ex- M I ¥ press sent to rendezvoas, they were re-inforoed by vete- rans in mountain life. The hunters, by keeping at a safe distance, in the course of a few hours killed several of the Indians, and almost all their horses, which in their situation, could not be protected, while they themselves suffered but small loss. The numbers killed on both sides have been differently stated, but considering the numbers engaged, and the length of time the skirmishing continued, it could not have been a bloody battle ; and not much to the honour of civilized Americans. The excuse made for forcing the Blackfeet into battle is, that if they had come upon a small party of trappers, they would have butchered them, and seized upon the plunder. If heathen Blackfeet would have done so, is this an apology for civilized White men to render evil for evil ? What a noble opportunity there was for our American citizens to have set an exam- ple of humanity. When the night drew near, the hunters retired to their encampment at the place of rendezvous, and the Indians made their escape. Thus the famous battle of Pierre's Hole began and ended. Had worship this evening with the Chiefs, and as many as could assemble in oue of their lodges, and explained to them the ten commandments — ^and after showing them their sins by their transgression of God's holy law, pointed them to the Saviour, and endeavoured to make them understand the way they can be saved. My method of instructing them was to give to the first Chief the first commandment, by repeating it, until he could repeat it ; and the second commandment to another Chief in the same way, and so on through the ten, with directions for them to retain what was given to each, and to teach them to their people : and the same manner was pursued with other parts of divine truth ; informing them, that at our next assembling, I shall examine them to see if they rightly understood, and re- tained what I committed to each. And on examination, in no case did I find more than one material mistake. I also found that they took much pains in communicating divine instruction one to another. In this place I parted with Captain Bridger and his party, who went north-west into the mountains to their Imnting ground, but ground which the Blackfeet claim, and for which they will contend. The first chief of the runs whicl placej chasi side. The li**»-r'l»-»^*^»<*- ' <- ■. . |..K>-* . 57 Flatbeads, and his family> with a few others of his people, went with Captain Bridger that thoy might continue with- in the range of buffalo through the coming winter. The Nez Perces, and with them the Flatheads, with whom I go, take a north-west direction for Salmon river, beyond which is their country. Our encampment for the Sabbath was well chosen for safety 'against any war parties of Blackfeet Indians, near a small stream of water which runs through a volcanic chasm. We had passed this, which is more than one hundred feet deep, and in most places perpendicular, and encamped on the west side of the chasm, with a narrow strip of wood around on every other side. Here was a passage made for the water by ^re. The courses, which are formed for the rivers, as forcibly prove the creating and directing hand of God, as the design - manifested in the organic part of creation; and I would as unwillingly account for the positions of mountains, and vaUies, and the channels of rivers, by natural phenomena, without including the power and design of God, as for the formation of plants and animals. It is true, there is more minute and curious organization in the one than there is in the other, but in both the wisdom and power of God are manifest. Took much satisfaction in reading the epistle to the Hebrews to-day, and especially the part which explains the priesthood of Cluist ; and also in committing myself and family, the church, and world of mankind, to God. It was pleasant to reflect on the promises, that the kingdoms of this world shall become the kingdoms of the Lord, and of his Christ, and He shall reign for ever ; and the time will come, when all shall know the Lord, and God shall be merciful to their unrighteousness, and their sius and iniquities He will remember no more. Monday, August 31st. While the Indians were pack- ing and preparing to leave this encampment, I went and examined this volcanic chasm. It is of great length, at least several miles, and narrow considering its depth; formed with basalt in columns in many places, and in others amygdaloid. Found many large and interesting specimens of pure obsidian, or volcanic glass — much lava and vitrified stones. I took some small specimens. In the vicinity around, there was clink stone in great abun- dance, which, when struck by the horses hoofs, gave a metallic sound very audibly. The soil is black, and ap- c2 ^'M 58 pears to be formed of decompoaed lava, and is covered with very nutricious grass. The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one meets with any disaster, the others will wait and assist him. Their horses of^en torn their pack, and run, plunge and kick, until they free themselves from their burdens. Yesterday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which a child was fastened, and started to run, but tliose near, hovered at once around with their horses so as to enclose the one to which the child was attached, and it was extri- cated without hurt. When I saw the condition of the child, I had no expectation that it could be saved alive. This was the second case of the same kind which occurred since I had been travelling with these Indians. They are so well supplied with horses that every man, woman, and child is mounted on i horseback, and all they have is packed upon horses. Small chil^en, not more than three years old, are mounted alone, and generally upon colts. They are lashed upon the saddle to keep them from falling, and especially when they go asleep, which they often do when they become fatigued. Then they recline upon the horse's shoulders ; and when they awake, they lay hold of their whip, which is fastened to the wrist of their right hand, and apply it smartly to their horses ; and it is astonishing to see how these little creatures will guide and run them. Children which are still younger are put into an encasement made with a board at the back and a wicker work around the other parts, covered with cloth inside and without, or more generally with dressed skins ; and they are carried upon the mother's back, or suspended from a high nob upon the fore part of their saddles. As we recede from the mountains the climate becomes warmer. We encamped upon another tributary of the Columbia. Tai-qvdn-wa-tish, the principal chief of the Nez Perces, came to me and requested me to meet in his lodge a number of their people who had separated, husbands from their wives, and wives from their husbands, and ex- plain to them what God has said upon the subject. I readily consented, and was the more pleased with the proposal, as it was without any suggestion from myself, but the result of his own reflections after what I had before said in explaining the ten commandments. When they were assembled, I read to them and explained wl wi p« col mq bs to I so< tu • t*'^ m^-M-* -MfilitWww^***) 69 9 covered tnd if one nd assist a» plunge burdens. »on which lose near, :o enclose fas extri- the child, ^e. This 'red since 7 are so nan, and ' have is han three •on colts, n falling, often do upon the Y hold of eir right nd it is uide and put into a wicker iside and md they from a becomes Y of the f of the et in his usbands and ex- ject. I irith the myself, I had When :plained what God has said about the duty of husbands to their wives, and of wives to their husbands ; and of the duty of parents to their children, and children to their parents. I commented upon the subject, and told them that when they marry it must be for life. They all but two agreed to go back to their former husdands and wives. It was interesting to see that they are ready to put in practice instructions as soon as received. The chief said they wish me to instruct them in all that Ood has said ; for they wish to do right. After I left them, they stayed a long time in the lodge of the chief, which wae nea" tent, and I heard them con- versing on the subj unu went to sleep, wl "uu 'ad at a late hour. They all shake nands with me whea service is closed, and say the instruction is "tois" (good.) September Ist, Tuesday. We pursued our journey to- day only about four hours. Crossed Henry's Fork, wh'eh is another branch of Lewis' river, and is itself a river of considerable magnitude, about twenty rods wide in this place, and fordable only when the water is low. Fears of meeting a war party of Blackfeet Indians, were fticreased by seeing three Indians pass who were not known. Some of our chiefs went through our encampment and harangued the people, the object of which was to be prepared for de- fending themselves against an attack, should any enemies appear. We were mercifully preserved in safety through the night, and arose on the morning of the second, and went on our way, and performed a journey of twenty-two miles over a very barren section of country. The surface is composed of quartose sand, intermixed with disintegrated amygdaloid, basalt, and obsidian. In some places were large excavations, plainly indicative of ancient volcanoes, which had not formed any thing conical around them, but had spread out their melted contents in a level plain of hard lava, or amygdaloid. In some places there were conical rocks of different magnitudes at the base and of different height — i^one perhaps over the diameter of three rods at the base, and sixty feet high. They were univer- sally divided in the centre, as though an explosion had tukcu place after they were hardened. At some distance from us were some very interesting hills, rising in high cones some hundred feet — two of them, I should judge to be not far from three thousand feet. I had not an opportunity of examining them. . .,.. . ,. ^. ^,- d '•^A 60 1; I ii We arrived at a small branch of the Salmon river, which was the first water we fonnd through the day, and upon which was good grass for ou^ horses. Here, after encamp- ing, Kentue, my Indian, caught me some excellent trout, which was a very grateful change of food. Received a letter from Fort Hall containing an invitation from Mr. A. Baker to spend the winter with him ; but the object for which I have passed the Rocky Mountains required me to pursue my toijr, and if possible to reach the Pacific Ocean, and to return to Fort Vancouver before winter. We providentially learned that a large band of Nez Perces was a few miles below us, and would come to Tis to-morrow. The Indians had become almost destitute of provisions, but to-day they killed a few buffalo. September 5th, the morning was very cold. We con- tinued in our encampment to-day, to give the band of Nez Perces an opportunity to join us, and about the middle of the day they came ; the principal chief marching in front with his aid, carrying an American flag by his side. They all sang a march, while a few beat a sort of drum. As they drew near, they displayed columns, and made quite an imposing appearance. The women and children followed in the rear. Tai-quin-wa-tish, and other chiefs arranged their people in the same order, and went out to meet them ; and when ^ had approached within ten rods of each other, all halted, . ^d a salute was fired, in which I had to take the lead. They then dismounted, and both bands formed into single file, and meeting, shook hands with each other in token of love, and to express their joy to see one come*among them to teach them thhigs pertain- ing to God and salvation. The principal chief of the other band, who is called Charle, and who is a chief of the Nez Perce nation, is a good-looking man, his countenance rather stern, intelligent, and expressive of much decision of character. I never saw joy expressed in a more dignified manner, than when he took me firmly by the hand and welcomed me. In the afternoon I took Kentue, and rode five miles to see a prominence of interesting appearance, which I found to be a mass of volcanic rocks. It is detached from the main mountain, stands on a plain upon the east side of Cote's delile, is about a mile in circumference at the base and rises up abruptly, having most of the west side perpen- \\ 61 er, which md upon encamp* Biit trout, nvitation but the buntains to reach er before band of come to destitute We con- band of e middle ihing in his side. )f drum, d made children BT chiefs »t out to ten rods which I id both : hands lieir joy Jertain- le other he Nez ;enance ision of gnified id and iles to found )mthe iide of e base srpen- dicular. It is more than two hundred feet higli, has a level horizontal summit of eighty rods long, north and south, and twenty rods wide. It furnishes plain evidence of having been fused and thrown up by subterranean fires. In the evening I met with the chiefs and as many as could assemble in a lodge, and explained to those whom I had not seen before the object of my mission. Charle, the first chief, arose and spoke very sensibly for a consid- erable time— mentioned Ins ignorance, his desire to know more about iQod, and his gladness of heart to see one who can teach him ; and said, ** 1 have been like a little child, feeling about in the dark after something, but not knowing what ; but now I hope to learn something which will be substantial, and which will help me to teach my people to do right." I told them, to-morrow would be the sabbath ; and explained to them the nature of the institution, and their obligation to remember and keep it holy. They expressed their desire to obey, and said they would not remove camp, but attend to the worship of God. Pro\'i- dentially there came to us this afternoon a good interpre- ter from Fort Hall, so that to-morrow we can have public worship. September 6th, Sabbath. Early this morning one of the oldest chiefs went about among the people, and with a loud voice explained to them the instructions given them last evening ; told them it was the Sabbath day, and they must prepare for public worship. About eight in the morning some of the chiefs came to me, and asked where they should assemble. I asked them if they could not be accommodated in the willows which skirted the stream of water on which we were encamped. They thought not. I then enquired if they could not take the poles of some of their lodges and construct a shade. They thought they could ; and with- out any other directions, went and made preparation, and about eleven o'clock came and said they were ready for worship. I found them all assembled, men, women, and children, between four and five hundred, in what I would call a sanctuary of God, constructed with their lodges, nearly one hundred feet long and, about twenty feet wide ; and all were arranged in rows, through the length of the building, upon their knees, with a narrow space in the middle, lengthwise, resembling an aisle. The whole area within was carpeted with their dressed skins, and they 62 m were all attired in their best. The Chiefs were arranged in a semioirole at the end which I was to ocoupv. I could not have believed they had the means, or could have known how, to have constructed so convenient and so decent a place for worship, and especially as it was the first time they had public worship. The whole sight, taken together, sensibly affected me, and filled me with astonishment ; and I felt as though it was the house of God and the gate qf heaven. They all continued in their kueelmg position during singing and prayer, and when I closed prayer with Amen, they all said what was equivalent in their language, to Amen. And when I commenced sermon, they sunk back upon their heels. I stated to them the original condition of man as first created ; his fall, and the ruined and sinful conation of all mankind ; the law of God, and that all are traiMgressors of this law, and as such, are exposed to the wrath of God, both in ^s life and the life to come ; and then told them of the mercy of God in giving his Son to die for us ; and of the love of the Saviour, and though he desires our salvation, yet he will not save us, unless we hate sin, and put our trust in him, and love and obey him with all our heart. I also endeavoured to shew them the necessit v for renovation of heart, by the power and grace of the Holy Spirit : told them they must pray to God for the forgiveness of their sins, and K>r salvation. They gave the utmost attention, and entire stillness prevailed, except- ing, when some truth arrested their mind forcibly, a little humming sound was made through the whole assembly, occupying two or three seconds. I never spoke to a mone interesting assembly, and I would not have changed my then audience, for any other upon earth ; and I felt that it was worth a journey across the Rocky Mountains, to enjoy this one opportunity with these heathen, who are so anxious to come to a knowledge of God. I hope, that in the last day it will be found, that good was done in the name of Jesus. If Christians could have witnessed this day's service, they would have felt and they would be willing to do something adequate to the conversion of these perishing souls. An Indian boy about sixteen years old, who belonged to the band who joined us yesterday, died this morning. He was speechless, when he was brought here. We attended 63 his funeral in tho aflemooa. They buried him in a very decent manner, without any heathen rites, excepting that they buried vrith him all his clothes and blankets. I addres- sed the people at the grave, upon the subject of the resur- rection, and of the judgment. This was entirely new to them, and verif interesting. Tai-quin-w&-tish came to my tent toward evening, and said, what I had said was « tois," it was spiritual, and now he knew more about God. Af- ter I had gone to rest, they sent for me to meet with them again in one of their tents. Monday, 7th. We travelled five hours to-day. The Indians make but slow progress in travelling with their vil- lage. It takes them a long time to pack and unpack, to set and take down their lodges. This is, however, of but little consequence to them, for wherever they are, it is their home. They are ver v kind, and manifest their kindness in anti- cipating ail, and more than all my wants, which they have the power to supply. They consult me upon all their im- portant business, and are very ready to follow my counsels. They are attentive to furnish little comforts. If the sun shines with much warmi h into my tent, they will cut green bushes, and set them u[) for shadj. A few days since, we encamped where there were some very fragrant planii of a species of mint, and the wife of Tai-quin-w^-tish, with a few other women, collected a considerable quantity, and strewed them in my tent. Pursued our journey on the 8th, as usual. Felt some soreness in my breast, arising from a cold, which began yesterday. My health thus far on my journey has been very good. The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet they are not very anxious about the future. When they have a plenty, they are not sparing ; and when they are iu want, they do not complain. The Indians at this time were almost destitute of provisions, and we were ap- proaching the Salmon river mountains, to pass over which occupies between twelve and fifteen days, and in which there are no buffalo, and scarcely any other game. I felt a prayerful concern for them, that God would send them a supply before we should get beyond the range of buffalo, and was confident that we should experience the truth of God's word, that he provides for all their meat in due sea- ^1 ! «! 04 Hon ; and us the cattle upon a thousand hills are his, so he would uot withhold from these Indians a supply of their need. September 9th, more unwell. To-day we unexpectedly saw before us a large herd of buffalo. All halted to make preparation for the chase. The young men and all the good hunters prepared themselves, selected the swiftest horses, examined the few guns they had, and also took a Hupply of arrows with their bows. Our condition was such, that it seemed that our lives almost depended upon their success ; and while they were preparing, I could not but lift up my heart in prayer to God, that he would in mercy give them judgment, skill, and success. They ad- vanced towards the herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they should frighten them before they should make a near approach ; and also to reserve the power of their horses for the chase, when it should be necessary to bring it into full requisition. When the buffalo took the alarm and fled, the rush was made, each Indian selecting for himself a cow, with which he happened to come into the nearest contact. All were in swift motion scouring the valley — a cloud of dust began to arise — firing of guns, and shooting of ar- rows followed in close succession — soon here and there buffalo were seen prostrated; and the women, who fol- lowed close in the rear, began the work of securing the valuable acquisition ; and the men were away again in pursuit of the fleeing herd. Those in the chase, when as near as two rods, shoot and wheel, expecting the wounded animal to turn upon them. The horses appeared to under- stand the way to avoid danger. As soon as the wounded ani- mal flies again, the chase is renewed, and such is the alter- nate wheeUng and chasing, until the buffalo sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained between fifty and sixty, which was a signal mercy. It was interesting to see how expertly the Indians use the bow and arrow, and how well the women followed up the chase, and performed their part in dressing those buf- falo which were slain. After travelling six hours to-day, we encamped in a good place on the eastern branch of Salmon river, where it is of considerable magnitude. The pain in my breast changed, and seated in my head, on the right side. On the 10th, my health was no better, and I was obli- 05 was gcd to resort to medioino. I could say with the Psahnist, " I laid me dowu and slept, for thou art with me." We did not remove to-day, for it was neceasarj for the Indians to dry their meat by what is called "jerking," The pro- cess is to cut the meat into thin pieces, an inch tliiok, and to spread it out upon a fixture made with stakes, upon which are laid poles, and upon these cross sticks ; and then a moderate iire is placed beneath, which partly'smokes, cooks, and dries, until it is so well freed from moisture, that it can be packed, and will keep without injury almost any length of time. Here we mRdo preparation for the remain- der of my journey to Walla Walla, which will probably occupy about twenty days. September 1 1 th. To-day the most of the Ne/ Peroes and Flatheads left us to continue within the rang^j^ of buf- falo, that they might secure a larger store of provisions before winter, leaving, however, about one hundred nud fifty to go with me towards Walla Walla. Before they left us, I experienced another token of their regard in a very valu- able present of twenty very fine buffalo tongues, wMch are a great delicacy, together with a large quantity of dried meat. I reciprocated the kindness, by making such pre sents as were in my power to bestow — among which wa^ u brittania cup to the first Chief, which he highly valued, and some writing paper, requesting that this last article might be presented to those missionaries, whom I had en- couraged him to expect next year. Pursued our journey on the 12th, down the eastern branch of Salmon river five hours. The valley through which this river runs is generally fertile, and varies from one to three or four miles in width ; but as we advanced towards the Salmon river mountains, the mountains upon each side increased in height, and converged ^owards each other. They presented some noble prospects. Ti; r a custom with Indians to send out numbers of their best hunters and warriors, in different directions, to see what they can dis- cover ; and especially when they are apprehensive any ene- mies may be near. We had evidence from tracks recently made, that Indians of some other nation, or tribe were about us ; and therefore more thi^n usual numbers of our men were flanking and a-head. About two in the afternoon, we were all very much alarmed, to see our men, who were out as hunters and r I 66 guards upon the hills, running their horses full speed, in an oblique cUrection towards us. Two of them were our prin- cipal Chiefs. We knew that they had discovered some- thing more than ordinary, but what, we could not conjecture. Being in a country where war parties of Blackfeet Indians often range, our thoughts were turned upon danger ; and soon our fears were increased, by seeing on the sides of the mountains at our left, clouds of dust arise, and in the ob- scure distance, were seen men descending as swiftly as their horses could run. They were so far ofif that we could not determine who they were. At the same time, our two Chiefs on the hills halted and made signals, which we did not understand. In addition to this some of the Indians said they saw Blackfeet Indians in the willows, not far off, between us and the Chiefs ; and our belief was confirmed that it was so, by two deer rushing from the willows, towards us, and when they saw us, instead of re- turning, they only declined a little to the left, and passed before us. These enquiries arose in my mind : Why have the Chiefs halted ? Do they see enemies brtween us and themselves ? Are their signals to give us warning of dan- ger ? What so frightened the deer that they rushed out towards us ? We were all halted, and had made what preparation we could for battle. As we did not know in what part of the willows to make the attack, we were waiting for our ene- mies to commence the fire, and were expecting every instant to have their balls poured in upon us. It was a moment of awful suspense. We sent out a few men upon an eminence to our right, to see what they could dis- cover, and they soon returned without having seen any enemies. The two Chiefs upon the hills, who were now joined by those who rushed down the mountains, and who proved to be some of our own men, applied their whips to their horses, and in full speed came to us ; and Charle, the first Chief, rode up to me, and smiling, reached out his hand and said, '< cocoil, cocoil," (buffalo, buffalo.) The remainder of the day was spent in killing and dressing buffalo. r-"h The inflammation in my head still continued with throb- bing, pain, and fever — my pulse one hundred a minute. Bled myself again, and took medicine. Thermometer, at noon, 73" 67 at September 13th, Sabbath. My health no better, and my strength was failing. I felt that all was right, and that I needed this trial, to lead me to an examination of my spiritual condition, my motives in engaging in this mission, and whether I could give up all for Christ, to promote his kingdom in the world. I thought I could sur- render all into the hands of God, my soul to my Re- deemer, and my body to be buried by these Indians in this desert land. I felt as though it was desurable to finish my tour, and return and make my report, and urge the sending of missionaries into this field, which is white for the harvest ; and to the bosom of my family and friends ; but still I would not have any will of my own, but say, " the will of the Lord be done." These Indians persevere in their kindness, and are very respectfiil, and ready to obey as fast as I can impart to them instruction ; and they say that what I say to them is different from any thing they have ever heard, being spiri- tual, and that they wish to have Sueapo (American) teach- ers. If the American churches will not send them teachers, criminality must rest upon them for disobedience to Christ's authority. Are there any heathen more anxious than these to be taught the way of salvation, and where there are so few hinderances to the introduction of the gospel ? They have no idols, no sacrifices, no power of caste to combat, and as yet not the destructive influence which ex- ists upon the frontiers. September 14th. Recommenced our journey, and pro- ceeded five hours down the river, and stopped a few miles above the main branch of Salmon river, which comes from the south, and has its origin in two small lakes in the mountains north of Henry's fork. For some distance on our way, on the 15th, the moun- tains came down near the river, rendering the valley through which it runs, narrow. Some of these mountains terminate in high bluffs, which in many places present uncommonly interesting strata. The lowest presented to view, was white marly earth, about twenty feet in depth, nearly horizontal, and somewhat indurated ; upon this, a green stratum of about four feet thickness ; next, a stratum of brown of about ten feet ; upon this, a stratum of red about the same depth of the green ; over this, a mould of decomposed lava. This marly earth sUghtly effervesces with acid. The rocks in 68 most places are basalt — ^in some places very fine wacke. Noticing some unusual appearances in the condition of the earth near the foot of the mountains, on the left, I rode to the place, and Ibund a cluster of volcanic eruptions, which, though ancient, appeared more recent than any I had seen. A little way down the descent into one of the craters, I found a petrified stump, standing in its natural position ; its roots, and the grain of the wood entire. I think it was cedar, and about eighteen inches in diameter. This stood, undoubtedly, upon what was the natural surface of the earth, and the mound above and around was thrown up by volcanic fires. While time is mouldering the lava into dust, the wind is scattering it over the country around, to renew the soil which was destroyed by the great con- flagration, which once fused this whole region of the isetting sun. This petrified stump, found in this position, proves that this country, which now is so destitute of wood, was once far better supplied, if not covered with forests. Does not this fact overthrow many of the theories of the formation of the great prairies of the west ? From various sources of evidence, it is plain that these prairie regions were once far better supplied with wood than at present, and also that the present supply is constantly diminishing. Passed to-day, a place which presented a very mournful scene, where two years ago thirty Nez Perce young men, who were killed by the Blackfeet, were buried. They were all active young men, going out upon some expedition, the nature of which I could not learn. They had gone but a little way from the village which encamped here, when, passing tlirough a very narrow defile ou a small stream of water, walled up on both sides with perpendicular rocks, the Blackfeet Indians who had way-laid them, attacked them from before and behind, and killed all but one who mounted a horse belonging to the Blackfeet and pushed his way through the opposing enemy. After the Blackfeet Indians had retired from the place of slaughter, the Nez Perces brought away the dead bodies and buried them in this place. According to their mode, they buried with them their clothes, blankets, and buffaloe robes, in graves only about three feet deep, putting five or six bodies in a grave. Some time after this, the Blackfeet Indians came and dug them up, and made plunder of their blankets and whatever they thought worth taking. The Nez Perces, some time afterwards, came this way, and collected their bones and buried them again. The graves in which they were first buried, were open when we passed, and fragments of garments were lying about. Here my Indians halted, and mourned in sUence over their slaughtered sons and brothers. The whole scene was very affecting, and I could not but long for the time to come, when they shall settle down in a christian community, and cease from their dangerous wanderings ; and also that the gospel may soon be sent to the Blackteet Indians, and that they may imbibe its spirit of peace on earth and good will towards men. After some tune spent in reflections and solemn mourning, we left the place and proceeded down the river, and encamped near Bonneville's Fort, which he has abandoned and which is situated in a small pleasant vale. This place would be favourable for fur business, was it not that it is on ground where conflicting tribes often meet. CHAPTER VII. Salmon river is a beautiful transparent stream; its shores are covered with pebbles from primitive formation. In less than a mile from us, upon the mountain on our left, not far up the mountain is a location of mineral salt, which I saw, which is pure and crystalized. I saw some which the Indians procured, the quality of which is good. I was anxious to go and visit the spot, but was suffering too much from the inflammation in my head, and weakness which resulted from its continuance. Took an observation of latitude, and found it to be 44* 41'. And after passing down the river, two hours in a north-west direction, we entered into the mountains, leaving Salmon river on our left. And the river literally passed into the mountains ; for the opening in the perpendicular rocks, two or three hundred feet high, and up these moun- tains several thousand feet high, was wide enough only for the river to And a passage. It flowed into the dark chasm, and we saw it no more. During the two hours' ride, before we entered the mountains, the scenery was grand. While there was some level bottpm-land along the river, in every 70 }; direction mountains were seen rising above mountains, and peaks above peaks, up to the regions of perpetual snow. These mountains are not so much in chains, as of a conical form, with bases in most instances in small proportion to their height. So much sublim^tj and grandeiir, combined with so much variety is rarely ^presented to view. After leaving the Salmon river, and going through some narrows on a small stream of water coming from the north- east, we came to a more open space, and to what I called the chimneys, standing near the base of a mountain. There were thirty or forty of them, appearing very much like stone chimneys of log houses, between ten and forty feet high. They are composed of conglomerated rock, of a somewhat slaty form, which makes them appear the more like the work of men. September 18th. The villages of Indians make slow progress in travelling, and being desirous to expedite my journey to some of the posts of the Hudson Bay Company, I took ten Indians and went forward, leaving the remain- der to follow on at their leisure. We passed over a mountain more than six thousand feet high, which took more than half a day to arrive at the summit. These mountains are covered with woods, excepting some small proportional parts, which are opeiij and furnish grass for our horses. The woods are composed mainly of fir, spruce, Norway pine, and a new species of pine. The leaves of this new species, resemble those of pitch pine, growing in bunches at the ends of the limbs, being shorter and smaller ; the bark and the body of the tree resembling the tamarack, the wood firm and very elastic. On account of this last and peculiar property, I have called it the elastic pine. It grows very tall and straight, and without limbs, except near the top. They undoubtedly would make excellent masts and spars for shipping. On experiments which I made, I found it very difficult to break limbs an inch in diameter. After passing part of the way down this moun- tain, we encamped by a small spring. September 20th, Sabbath. I told Charle he had better spend part of the day with his men in devotional exercises. They all knelt down, and he prayed with them ; after wliich, he talked with them a considerable time, concerning the things which I had taught them. It was truly interest- ing to see these poor heathen upon their knees, trying to 71 worship God, acoordingto the instraotions of the Scriptures. How can any Christian refirain from doing what he can, to give the lamp of life to these benighted souls, and especi- ally, seeing they are so anxious to know the way of salva- tion, and so ready to do. After they had closed their worship, I sang a hymn, and prayed, loid conversed with them. The inflammation in my head continuing, I bled inyself copiously, which reduced my pulse for a whUe, but increas- ed my weakness, so that I could walk but a few rods without much fatigue. Sometimes, amidst all the evidences of God's mercy to me, I found my heart sinking into despondency, and was ready to say, I shall perish in these wild, cold mountains. It seemed, that such was my failure of strength, and I was becoming so emaciated, that I could not endure the fatigue of travelling eight days more over these mountains, which are, on an average, about six thousand feet high ; and as they range north and south, with only very narrow vallies between, and our course was only a little north of west, we were constantly ascending and descending; and we could not discontinue our journey for the want of provi- sions. The thought, that I must fail of accomplishing the object of my mission, and close my life without a sympa- thising friend ^lear, with whom I could converse and pray, and be buried in these solitary mountains, filled me with a gloom which I knew was wrong. My judgment was clear, but I could not make it influence the feelings of my heart. At night, I sometimes thought a pillow desirable, upon which to lay my aching, throbbing head, but my portmanteau was a very good substitute, and I rested quietly upon the ground, and every morning arose refreshed by sleep. Monday, 2ist. At a very early hour we resumed our journey, and our horses being recruited with the rest and good fare they had yesterday, made a long day's journey, considering the height of the mountain over which we passed, and the rocks and trees obstructing the trail. I had noticed the mountain over which we passed to-day, which is about seven thousand feet high, two days before we ar- rived at the top ; and queried in my mind whether Charle, my guide, would not depart in this instance from the com- mon custom of the Indians, which is to pass over the high- i, i I 1 ': t; ^ n I M eat parts of mountains, (and to descend into tbe lowest valleys. But we passed the highest part, except one peak, which, in nearly all its parts, is perpendicular, and rises like an immense castle or pyramid. It is composed of basalt ; and around it, volcanic rocks lie scattered in great profusion. At the base there are also excavations, around and below which there is much lava. This is a granite mountain, much of which is in its natural state. The way by which I calculated the height of these mountains is, that some of them are tipped with perpetual snow ; and as eight thousand feet, in latitude 42°, is the region of per- petHial snow, so there can be no doubt, as these do not vary greatly from each other, that they average six thousand feet. I was much interested with a curiosity upon this moun- tain, which was two granite rocks each weighing many tons, placed one upon the other, like the parts of an hour glass. It was wonderful how nicely the uppermost one was balanced upon the other. It would seem that a puff of wind would blow it off its centre. Charle, the Chief, seeing me one day examining, with a magnifying glass, some minerals, said, " these White men know every thing. They know what roeks are made of, they know how to make iron, and how to make watches, and how to make the needle always point to the north." They had seen a compass before, and when I showed them mine, they said, " that would keep me from getting lost." Encamped upon a mountain by a small spring, where there was but little grass. A water-fall was seen descending down a high point of the same mountain, which by its continual foam- ing, looked like a white belt ^rding its side. Left our encampment, on the 22nd, at an early hour, and continued our mountainous journey. Parts of the way, the ascent and descent was at an angle of 45°, and some places even more steep ; and sometimes on the verge of dizzy precipices; sometimes down shelves of rocks, where my Indian horse would have to jump from one to another ; and in other places he would brace himself upon all fours, and slide down ; and 1 had become so weak, that I could not walk on foot, but was obliged to keep upon his back. Frequently between the mountains there would be space enough only for a rushing stream of the purest water to find its way ; the bank on the one side of which 73 would terminate the descent of one mountain, and the other bank commence the ascent of another. The ques- tion often arose in my mind, can this section of country ever be inhabited, unless these mountains shall be brought low, and these valleys shall be exalted? But they may be designed to perpetuate a supply of lumber for the wide- spread prairies ; and they may contain mines of treasures, which, when wrought, will need these forests for fuel, and these mshing streams for water-power. Roads may be constructed running north and south, so that transporta- tions may be made south to the Sahnon-river, and north to the Cooscootske.* Continued to descend, until we came into a vale of con- siderable extent, through which flows a large branch of the Cooscootske. Found to-day a new species of elder, which grows very large, five or six inches in diameter, and from ten to twenty feet high, bearing berries which are blue and pleasant to the taste. Kentuc caught me some fine trout. Here was a band of horses, belonging to the Nez Percys, which they left here last spring. They were in fine order. It is remarkable that their -horses do not wander far from where they are left, although there are no fences to inclose them. Here some of my Indians changed their horses, and took fresh ones, relieving those which were worn down with long journeying. September 25th. We pursued our course down this fertile vale, until one in the afternoon, when contraryto my expecta- tions, we had to leave this branch of the Cooscootske, which was too much of a northerly direction, and ascended ano- ther high mountain, which was densely covered with woods. Among the largest trees is a new species of fir, single leafed, the bark thick and rough like the bark of hemlock, but the balsam is the same as the common fir. I saw more birds in this valley, than in all the country through which I had passed west of the Rocky Mountains ; robins in great num- bers, the magpie, and with them, a new species of bird, about as large as the magpie, its colour muformly a dull *The name of this river in the journal of Clarke and Lewis, is writ- ten Cooscooskee, and flo in all other writii^ T have seen. This signifies the water-water. But Cooscootske signifies the little water. Coos, water ; coots, little ; ke, the. The little river. D n '■ Vi ^! n. 74 1' red, BOmewhat resembling ohoc(^te. Thermometer stood On the 26th, we proceeded about ibnr hours on our way, and encamped on the side of a mountain near its summit; the distance to another place suitable for our horses, over Sabbath, being too great. Saw to-day a new species of animal, such as I never saw before. It was about as large as a martin, and probably of that genus. Its colour was a bright orange red, resembling a live coal of fire ; its fur appeared to be very fine ; its head round and large ; its eyes black, prominent, and very piercing. I was forward of my Indians, and when it saw me, it sprang about eight feet up a tree, ran part of the way up, but appeared to be afraid to ascend higher. Attempts were made to obtain it, but without success. An Indian hit it with an arrow, but did not kill it. It came down and escaped. Saw in these mountains a new variety of striped squirrel, only about half as large as those found in the United States ; also another kind, in every respect resembling the red squirrel, excepting its colour. It is nearly black, excepting its under parts, which are rufous, or reddish yellow. Also a new species of pheasant, if it may be called a pheasant. It is much smaller than the common ; somewhat lighter coloured, and more spotted ; its habits are gregarious like the common quail. It was remarkably tame, as if unac- quainted with enemies ; and when assailed with stones by the Indians, appeared to be amazed, and made scarcely any effort to escape. Their flesh was very good, and fur- nished an additional supply to our waning stock of provi- sions. Sabbath, 27th. Continued in our encampment. My health no better — sweat profusely last night, and yet the inflammtition was rather increasing — took from my arm a pint of blood, which, while it weakened, gave me relief. We had religious services in the fore and after part of the day, as last Sabbath. Charle prays every morning and evening with his men, also asks a blessing when they eat. In the aflernoon, he took Compo, my interpreter, and came and sat down by me, and said, " we are now near our coun- try, and when we come into it, I wish you to look over it, and see if it is good for missionaries to live in. I know but little about God — my people know but little — I wish ray people to know more about God." He said he wished 75 ter stood on our near its for our ly a new It was it genus, live coal )und and I was ng about )eared to obtain n arrow, Saw in •el, only States; the red excepting w. Also )beasant. at lighter ious like if unae- itones bj scarcely and ftir- jf provi- iit. My . yet the ly arm a relief, r part of ning and they eat. nd came ur coun- c over it, I know —I wish e wished to talk with me much more, and was sorry I had not a bet- ter qualified interpreter. Besides the Bible, read part of a little book called *' Christ preqioiis." Monday, 28th. In better health. M^e a long day's march and emerged from the mountains, two o'clock in the aflernoon. Not finding water as we expected, where to rest, we were obliged to travel on until near night when we came to another branch of the Cooscootske, by which we found several lodges of the Nez Perce Indians. A salute was fired, and then we were welcomed with a ce- remonious, but hearty shaking of hands. They then feas- ted us with some excellent dried salmon, for which I made them some small presents. I was rejoiced to find myself wholly through the Salmon-river mountains, and convales- cent. These mountains were far worse to pass than the Rocky Mountains, as we could not take advantage of any valley excepting one, in which we journeyed only two- thirds of a day. Excepting the middle of the days, the atmosphere was cold, and frequently ice was formed during the night. It was a favour that we had no snow, which oflen falls upon the tops of these mountains very early in the autumn ; nor had we any storms, or very unpleasant wea- ther in our passage over. Frequently heavy gales of winds sweep through these mountains, and blow down parts of the forests ; but we had none to endanger us. September 29th. We proceeded down this branch more than half the day, aud found the soil black and good, well covered with grass, which, however, was dried into hay by the summer drought. Here, as on most prairies, there is much want of wood, there being but little besides what is found along the streams of water. This country continues to be volcanic, as is evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt. Came at noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed us with the same friendly expressions, as did those where we encamped last night, he^ the branch of the Cooscootske, and ascended Westerly to the upper prairies, which are as fertile as the lower, and do not suf- fer any more with the drought. After a long fatiguing ride over these prairies, we descended into a deep gulph, almost inclosed with perpendicular walls of basalt ; in the bottom of which, we found a large spring of water, by which we encamped. Arose very early on the 30th, set forward, and made f I ' n 7fl M. si II \ good progress, considering the exhausted state of our hor- ses. Found most of the streams dried up, and one, which is generally large, and where we intended to have arrived last \ night, was wholly destitute of water and grass. Ascend- ing out of this gnlph, we found, toward the summit of the high prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency of grass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon. The horses, oontraiy to my expectations, preferred the dried gruss to the green. In the afternoon we went through a section of country well supplied with woods, chiefly made up of yel- low pine, and wlute oak ; where also much of the soil ap- peared^to be very good . Towards night w u came to a stream of water running West, whor» we encamped. Thermome- ter 82" at noon. Thursday, October 1st. Afose early with substantially better health, for which I cannot be too thankful. After travelling a few miles, we came to several lodges of Nez Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed as also at the other lodges, pleased to sec their first Chief Tliey manifested much the same feelings on learning who I was, and the object of my coming into their country, as did their countrymen whom we met at the rendezvous. With these Indians, I left two of my horses, whifh were too much exhausted with the fatigues of ray long journey to proceed any farther. 1 had fears that they would not endure the deprivations of the coming winter, without any shelter from the cold and storms, and with nothing to eat, except what they could find upon the prairies. Arrived, two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis branch of the Columbia river, near the confluence of fhe Cooscootske. Though this is a large river, yet on account of the summer's drought, there is less water flowing down its channel than I anticipated. This country differs very much from what I had expec- ted ; for while the soil is generally good, and furnishes a supply for grazing, yet there is such want of summer-rains, that some kinds of grain cannot flourish, especially Indian com. The crops sown in the fall of the year, or very early in the Spring, would probably be so far advanced before the severity of the drought should be felt, that they would do well. In general there is a great want of wood for building, fencing, and fuel , but at the confluence of these rivers, a supply may be brought down the Coos- our hor- le, which rived last ; Ascend- nit of the ciettcy of le horses, gruss to lection of p of jel- 3 soil ap- a stream eniiome- stantially 1. After ^s of Nez reined as rat Chief ling who intry, as idezvous. linh were journey ould not hout any ig to eat, Lewis 5e of fhe account ng down d expec- nishes a ler-rains, y Indian sry early d before ?y would of wood >nfluence :ie Coo3- cootske. This place combines many advantages for a Mis- sionary btation. I began to doubt the correctness of the statements of some travellers, in regard to the great numbers of wild horses, and the immense multitudes of wolves, which they say they saw this side the Rocky Mountains ; for as yet I had seen no wild horses, and only a very few wolves. En- camped upon the west bank of Lcwis'-river, or, as it is more commonly called the Snake-river. On the 2nd, we arose early, but were detained some time before all our horses could be found. Sf^t out about eight, and proceeded three hours down the river, to a place where it takes a northerl}- bend, through a section of moun- tains, which are difficult to be passed. Our direct course to Walla Walla being West North- West, we here left the river, and followed a small stream up a valley nearly to its source. The section of country through which we journeyed to-day was considerably mountainous. One part of the river along which we travelled was walled up with volcanic rocks. The lowest part was amygdaloid, about thirty feet high above the river, and very cellular, terminating in a narrow horizontal plain. Above this is superimposed columnar basalt ; the columns of which are regular pentagons, varying from two to four feet in diame- ter, rising sixty feet high, perpendicular excepting in one place, where they were a little inclining. Above this for- mation of columns, there was a stratum of volcanic stones, and disintegrated basalt, of some six or eight feet thickness, lying in a confused state. Then upon this, another section of basalt and amygdaloid of fifty feet depth, and so on to the height of 300 feet nearly perpendicular. The pentagons are as regularly formed, and have much the same appear- ance, as those composing the Giant's causeway in Ireland. From the best observations I could make, I was led to con- clude, that the different sections were raised by widely ex^ tended subterranean fires, and at different periods of time. The basalt in this place, and also in almost all other places which I have yet seen, is of very dark colour, containing augite, or black oxid of iron ; and is what some, who have been in this country, have called black rocks. Saturday, 3rd. We took an early departure from our encampment. We had through the day an uncommonly high wind from the West, a pleasant sun, and serene atmos- ■^ -w*-" -.•?'>«rEtML-r*«snn-; 78 phore. We have had no i^in since the IStii -^ .fuly^ ^nd not more than five cloud/ days. The waler this side the Rocky Mountains is excellent, and no countrj can pos- sess a climatci more conducive to health. After passing over a somewhat hilly country well covered with grass, we encamped for the night, and for the Sahbath, in a fertile vale, upon an upper branch of the Walla Walla river. Hero we fotmd three lodges of the Nez Percys, who were out on a hunt for deer, and whose women were gathering cammas roots. This root in some degree resembles, in taste and nutritive properties, the sweet potato, and consti- tutes a la'rge item or food of the Indians, throughout a con- siderable section of country this side Salmon-river, and Salmon-river mountains. The Common tokens of friend- ship were interchanged ; and t^ey presented us a share of such food as they had, and, on my part, I made them some small presents. Sabbath, 4th. We had public Worship, at which all the men, women, and children of three lodges attended. What there was of a truly spiiitnal nature in our worship, was known to the Searcher of hearts, but there was the appear- ance of devotion, and good attention was paid to what was said. It is affecting to see the anxiety these Indians mani- fest to know what they must do to please Ood, and to obtain salvatiop. Employed part of the day in reading Vincent's Expla- nation of the catechidm. This is an excellent compendium of divinity, and is far too much neglected in families and Sabbath Schools. "7., Decamped early on the 5th, iind pursued out jourtiey down the Walla Walla river, upon some parts of Which there is a good supply of wood — ^\'ellow pine, cotton-wood, and various kinds of shrubbery, ot which the wild rose is no small part. Thi'ough most parts of this valley the soil is good, and in some places widely extended. We find but very little game of any kind. Some prairie hens and avosets, some robins, and a few other small birds of new species. The crow is seen everywhere, and here they are remarkably tame. The Indians having no inducenients to moleidt them, they do not fear man as their common enemy. Our en- campment was on the same branc|i of the Walla Walla, where there were high bluffs on both Bides. October 6th. We arose early, and commenced our fui/, and this ride can pos- pasring gfraiss, we a fertile la river, rbo were leathering ibles, in d consti- it a con- ver, and >f friend- share of em some h all the . What lip, was appear- rhttt was asmani- , ftnd to journey with animating hope of reaching Walla Walla, and of seeing civilized people before noon. Ascended the bluffs, and passed over an undulating prairie of good soil, leaving Walla Walla river to our left. As we drew near the Co- lumbia river, the soil became more and more sandy. Be- fore we arrived at the fort, my attention was arrested by seeing some cows and other cattle, in fine order, feeding upon the bottom-land ; and the sight was not only novel, after having been so long from civilized life, but the more interesting on account of being unexpected. As we came near the i'ort, the Indians tired their customary salute, and then rushed forward to the gate. Mr. P. C. Pambrun, the Superintendent, met us at the gate, and gave me a kind welcome. I never felt more joy in entering a habitation of civilized people, and whose language was not strange. I felt that I had great cause of thankftilness, that God iu his great mercy, and by his watchful providence, had brought me in safety, and with restored health to this place. Soon I was invited into another apartment to breakfast; and comparatively speaking, it was a new thing to sit in a chair, and at a table spread with furniture — and upon which was placed ducks, bread and butter, sugar and milk. Bread, butter, and milk were great luxuries. I Expla- >endium lies and journey f which tt-wood, se is no e soil is Srat lefy ivosets, species, arkably }t them, fnt en- Walla, ed our ."7 n\ %. CHAPTER VIH. Fort Walla Walla is situated on the South side of the Columbia river, ten miles below the confluence of the Co- lumbia and Lewis' river, which last is commonly called, by the people belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, Nez Perc6 river ; and one mile above the Walla Walla river, m latitude 46° 2', longitude llQo 30'. Two miles below the fort there is a range of mountains running North and South, which though not high, yet are of considerable magnitude ; and where the Columbia passes through, it is walled up on both sides with basalt, in many places three hundred feet perpendicular height, which renders the scenery picturesque. The soil for considerable distance around, with the exception of some strips of bottom-land, is sandy, €0 and for the want of sammer-rains is not productive. This Establishment is not only supplied with the necessaries of life, but also with many of the conveniences. They have cows, horses, hogs, fowls, &c. and cultivate com, potatoes, and a variety of garden vegetables ; and might enlarge these and other productions to a great extent. They also keep on hand dry goods and hardware, not only for their own convenience, but also for Indian trade. Most of the year they have a good supply of fish ; of which, there are abundance of salmon of the first quality. There is a great deficiency in religious privileges. I arrivea here ia six months and twenty-three days from leaving home — fortj-five from Rendezvous — and twenty days from entering SiJmon-river mountains. Wednesday, 7th. Continued in this place. Settled' with my Interpreter, gave presents to my Indians, and made ar- rangements for leaving this place to-morrow, in a canoe propelled by Indians belonging to the Walla Walla tribe, for Fort Vancouver, which is two hundred miles down the Columbia. Thus T tem putting myself, without fear, into the hands of Indians, where a few years ago an escort of fifty men was necessary for safety, and shall have to pass places which have been battle-grounds between Traders and In- dians. The Gentlemen belonging to the Hudson-Bay Company, are worthy of commendation for their good treatment of the Indians, by which they have obtained their friendship and confidence, and also for the efibrts, which some few of them have made, to instruct those about them in the first principles of our holy religion ; especially in regard to equity, humanity, and morality. This company is of long standing, have become rich in the Fur-trade, and they intend to perpetuate the business ; therefore they consult the prosperity of the Indian3 as intimately connected with their own. I have not heard as yet of a single instance of any Indians being wantonly killed by any of the men belong- ing to this company. Nor have I heard any boasting among them of the satisfaction taken in killing or abusing Indians, as I have elsewhere heard. Thursday, 8th. My three Walla Walla Indians having got all things in readiness, mats, provisions, &c. furnished by the kindness of Mr. Pambrun, and he having given 81 "S, them their instructions, I went on board the canoe at nine o'clock in the morning, and having passed the usual salu- tations, we shoved off, and gently glided down the river, which here is three-fomrths of a mile wide. I felt myself in a new situation — my horses dismissed — I was in a frail canoe upon the wide waters of the Columbia, subject to winds, and with rapids and &lls on the way, and among stranger Indians, two hundred miles by water, before I could expect to find any White men; to pass through several nations whose languages are entirely different ; yet the change from horseback, for months, over mountains and plains, through defiles and ravines, was anticipated with satbfaction. My three Indians were well acquainted with the river, and with the art of managing the canoe. One of them understood the Nez Perc6 language tolerably well, was very loquacious and vain, and wished to be thought a man of importance. He told me he was to do the talking, and the other two were to do as he should direct. On account of his important and loquacious habits, I called him my orator. One of the other two, who took the stem, and steered the canoe, was a stout, brawny, savage-looking man, excepting the expression of his countenance, which was indicative of intelUgeuee and good nature. The third, who took the bow, was an able well disposed young man. The channel through the volcanic mountain, a little belo\y the fort, is one of the wonders of nature ; how it was forme'd through those immensely hard basaltic rocks to the depth of about three hundred teet, and for the distance of two or three miles, remains unexplained. But my attention wan so much taken up with the boiling eddies, and the varying currents, that I did not take those observations, which under different circumstances might have been made, and which the scenery and phenomena demanded. In one place, as we passed out the mountain channel, the river ran so rapidly over a rocky bed, and the water was so broken, that I felt unsafe to continue in the canoe, and requested my Indians to put me ashore. My talking Indian said. (( toiSf' (good.) I told him, waiitu tots, kapseis, not good, but bad. But still he said tois, tois, and I concluded, that they would not decline putting me on shore, if there were any particular danger. The man at the stem put off into the middle of the river, where the water was the smoothest, d2 i-1 ' 5 : 1 ^ ! ¥ bnt where the current was Equally strong, and with his keen eye fixed upon the varying eddies, applied his brawny arms to the work ; and whenever a change of his paddle from one side of the canoe was necessary, it was done in the twinkling of ah ej-e. Any failure of right management Would have been disastrous } but they kept the danoe in the right direction, and we shot down with such velocity, as, together With the breaking in of some water, to create solicitude. But this served to make the smodth parts more pleasant, and my mind more tranquil in regard to future dangers. At two o'clock in the afternoon, we called at an encamp- ment of Cayuse Indians of about a dozen lodges, , My orator, when we had come within hearing announced our approach, and informed them who I was, and the object of my tour, and that they must prepare to receive me with all due respect — that I was not a trader, and that I had not come with goods, but to teach them how to worship God. They arranged themselves in single file, the Chiefs and principal men forward, then the more common men, next the women according to their rank, the wives of Chiefs, the old women, the young, and then the children accord- ing to age. All things being made ready, the salute was fired, and I landed and shook hands with all, even the youngest children, many of whom When they presented the hand, would turn away their faces through fear. I made them some presents, and bought of them some dried salmon and cranberries. These were the first cranberries I had seen West of the Rocky Mountains, and they were a grate- ful acid. They expressed much satisfaction in seeing me, and in the object of my coming among them. I told them I could not explain to them what I wished, but they must meet me next spring at Walla Walla, where I should have an Interpreter, and then I would tell them about God. Aflier again shaking hands with them, we went on our way. At five o'clock we landed upon the North shore, and en- camped near a large number of Nez Perce Indians, who came about me with the same tokens of friendship and kindness, which characterize their nation. Among their acts of kindness they brought me wood, which in this sec- tion of the country is scarce ; and gathered small bushes and grass to make my bed upon. In return I made them eome presents. October 9th. Arose before day, and as soon as any 83 ith his light appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The morning was pleasant, the country around, open and diver- sified with rolling prairies, and distant mountain-tops, mellowed with the opening heams of the rising sun. It was a time for pleasing contemplations, such as banished, all feelings of solitude, although no sound broke upon the ear, but the regularly timed strokes of the paddles of my Indians, who were urging forward my canoe with an accelle- rated velocity, greater than the current of the river would have carried us. The operations of nature were spread out in silence. About the middle of the day, the silence was interrupted by the roar of a distant rapid ; the sound of which continued to increase, until the white breaking water was presented to view. For several miles the bed of the river was filled with rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals, among which the whirling, and foaming water was forcing its way. The only part of the river, which pre- sented any appearance of safety, was along the South shore. This had somewhat the appearance of a wake. My Indians made no movement for landing, but kept near the middle of the river. On my expressing some apprehensions of danger, they pointed toward the wake and said, " teis." I pointed forward, and towards the North shore, and said, kapseis, bad. They answered, at, kapseis ; and with the language of signs accompanying their words, told me they would keep the canoe in the good water, and it would not fill, nor be drawn into the breakers. My confidence in their skill of management being well established, T iivd.de no objec- tion to their going forward, and in a very shorr time we had passed the apparent danger, and were pr^Jding 1' Dg over the smooth surface, on the South side of a large )-;laind;. about six miles lonj^. During the day, the country around wac comparatively level, covered with a black soil, whicjj ;^. pears to havj been formed by atmospheric agents decoiiposmg the volcanic substances, which so generally abound. This section of the country is well supplied with grass, which during the summer-drought is converted into hay. Who can o Icu- late the multitudes of cattle and sheep, which might be kept here summer and winter, with no other labour than the care of a few herdsmen and shepherds. Eneairrjed upon the North side of the river, among some sand-hiilsy a ul ■' 1?. i ■] I ■ I '8 _ i ? J iiJ ' u Nl 84 little below several lodges of Walla Walla Indians, to whom I had the nsual and formal introduction. I was pleased to find Indians belonging to different tribes scattered all along this river, living in harmony without any feuds or jealousies. It speaks much in favour of their kind and peaceable dispositions. October 1 0th. Arose before day, after a night's com- fortable rest, and by the first brealdng light, we had our baggage on board, and were under way. Towards the middle of the day we came to a more mountainous tract of country, and at a place, where the mountains crossed the river, there were very rocky rapids, but by winding our way among islands near the North shore, we made a safe descent. About noon, a head-wind, which commenced in the fore part of the day, had become so fresh, and the waves began to multiply their white caps, so that it was dangerous navigation for our canoe, and we had to land, and wait for a more favourable time. We encamped on the North side of the river, under a very high and romantic basaltic mountain ; in some parts near us, the rocky walls were more than two hundred feet in perpendicular height — in one place hanging over. In some places, and at differ- ent altitudes of this immense wall, there were cavities of considerable magnitude, and in others, wide and deep fis- fc^ures ; through one of which passes the road travelled by pedestrians, and those on horse-back. This place is ten miles above the Falls of the Columbia, which the Indian.s call the turn tum ; the same expression they use for the beating of the heart. About a mile above us were encamped some Walla Wallas, many of whom came to my tent, and wished to enter into trade with me, offering me beaver at a low price. I told them to trade was not ray business, any farther than to buy salmon, &c. for food. My orator told me (me of them was a Meobot, a Chief, and would expect a present. As a trial of their disposition, I told him they had not brought me any wood for a fire, and I would not give them any thing until they showed their kindness. But he said I must make the Chief a present, and buy of them wood. I replied, waiitu, if he is a Chief, let him show the generosity of a Chief Very soon they brought wood, and a fire was made, which I followed with some present'?. Sabbath, October 1 1th. Continued in the same encamp- 85 ans, to t tribes ment, andliad my heart's desire much excited for the salva- tion of these poor Heathen. There were a sufficient number here to have made a decent congregation had I any medium of communication. Their language differs from 'the Nez Percys', so that I could have no communication with them only by my orator, who asked me if he should teach these Indians what he had learned about God and his worship. I gave him permission, though I had fears he was influenced more by love of distinction, than any higher motive; but still, if any true light should be imparted to them, I would rejoice in it. I arose the latter part of the night of the 12th, and the weather being calm, and the moon shining pleasantly, we took our departure for the Falls, where we arrived some tiire before day. Above the Falls there is a large island, nn the South side of which there is a commodious bay, near which, and upon the river De Shutes, which here unites with the Columbia, there is a village of the Fall Indians, of about thirty lodges. Here we landed, and my talker raised his oratorical voice to such a note, as aroused the whole village, calling upon the Chiefs to arise, and with their people, receive the personage with him in due form. It was but a short time before their line was formed, the first Chief leading the way, and others accord- ing to their rank and age following, and the ceremony of shaking hands was performed, and all retired to their lodges again. There is a great want of neatness among Indians in general, but more especially among those on this river, who live by fishing. Ffcr«; we left our canoe, and took horses and proceeded by land, upon the South side of the river, by the Falls, and down the La Dalles, six miles. From the lower end of the island where the rapids begin, to the perpendicular fall, is about two miles ; and here the river contracts, when the water is low, to a very narrow bpaee, and with only a short distance of swift water, it makes its plunge tvv^enty feet perpendicular ; and then after a short distance of rapids, dashing against the rocks, it moves on in a narrow passage, iilled with rapids and eddies, among volcanic rocks, called the La Dalles, four miles ; and then spreads out into a gentle broad channel. At the Falls and the La Dalles 1 r>..*»^^jjf«i,,,^;^i,_ir..j_f..^,ij;.^»^^^..^.^^^^^^. IM below, there are several carrjing-places, where boats and canoes, as well as baggage, Iwve to be transported. The geological formation along this distance is singular. With the exception of a few high hills and bluffs, the shore and lands around are but little above the river in the fresh- et rise ; and yet the channel of the river is through the hardest basalt and amygdaloid. Has this channel worn this solid rock-formation ? If so, at what time ? There is no appearance of the channel having worn perceptibly deeper, since these rocks, from their melted state, spread out into their present condition, which must have taken place centuries and centuries ago. As I have no confi- dence in theories founded upon conjecture, nor in Indian traditions, I leave the subject for others to tell ns how these things took place. But one thing h true, the Falls and La Dalies furnish a situation for water power equal to any ill any part of the world. Here alse is one of iLe best loca- tions for salmon fishing, and where gront imnibers of Indians collect in the season of taking them, which com- mences the last of April, or the first of May, and continues a few months. At the lower part of the La Dalles, I found Capt. Wyeth, from Boston, with a small company of men, going up the river to Fort Hall. Capt. Wyeth, who is an intelligent and sociable man, had the charge of the business of the Com- pany formed in Boston, for salmon fishing on the Columbia, and for trade and trapping in the region of the mountains The plan of the company was to send a ship annually round Cape Horn into Columbia river, to bring out goods for trade, and to take home the salnion and furs which should be obtained through the year. It was expected the profits on the salmon would defray all common expen- ces, and that the profits on the furs would be clear, and yield a handsome income. But thus far the enterprise has been attenrJcd v'fh many disasters, and the loss of many lives — srv ral oi the men were drowned, and some killed by Indiana. Here I dismissed my Walla Walla Indians to return, and Tilki, the first Cliief of the lia Dalles Indians, engaged to furnish ir,i with a canoe and men, to carry me to Fort Vancouver. Encamped witl* Capt. Wyeth, and obtained from him a short vocabulary of the Chenook language, to 87 I ] enable me to do common business with the Indians resi- ding along on the lower part of this river October 13th, Tuesday. I left this encampment at nine o'clock in the forenoon, in the canoe with three men fur- nished bj Tilki, and made good progress down the river, which flows in a wide and gentle current. Many parts of the way, the river is walled up with high and perpendicu- lar basalt. At the La Dalles commences a wood country, which becomes more and more dense as we descend, and more broken with high hills and precipices. Noticed a re- markable phenomenon — trees standing in their natural position in the river, in many places where the water is twenty feet deep, or much more, and rising to high, or freshet water mark, which is fifteen feet above the low wa- ter. Above the freshet rise, the tops of the trees are decayed and gone. I deferred forming an opinion in regard to the cause, until I should collect more data. About the middle of the day a South wind began to blow, and con- tinued to increase until it became necessary to go on shore and encamp, which we did about four in the afternoon. On the 14th, we did not make much progress, on account of wind and rain. Encamped in a cavern uuder a large projecting rock, the upper part of which was formed of ba- salt, the lov^er of pudding stone. Although this en- campment was at least six miles above the Cascades, yet the roar of the water could be distinctly heard. The same phenomenon of trees continued. I paid particular attention to the condition of the shores of the river and adjacent bills, to see if any evidence could be discovered of their having slidden down from the hills by escarpment ; but as their condition was the same where there were no hills near, I was led to conjecture, that I should find at the Cas- cades, the river dammed up with volcanic productions ; and 1 was induced to believe it would be found to be so, from the fact, that the river, the whole distance from the La Dalles, is wide and deep, and moves with a sluggish cur- rent. On the 15th, the wind and rain continuing through the fore part of the day, I did niH leave my encampment until noon, when we set forward, and arrived at the Cascades at two o'clock in the afternoon. I'he trees, to-day, were still more numerous, in many places standing in deep water, and we had to pick our way with our canoe in some parts. \iU I :i I "i as through a forest. The water of thin river is so clear, that I had an opportanity of examining their position down to their spreading roots, and found them in the same con- dition, as when standng in their natural forest. As I approached the Cascades, instead of finding an embank- ment formed from volcanic emiptions, the shores above the falls were low, and the velocity of the water began to accelerate two-thirds of a mile above the main rapid. On a full examination, it is plainly evident, that here has been an uncommon subsidence of a tract of land, more than twenty miles in length, and more than a mile in width. The trees standing in the water, are found mostly towards and near the North shore, and yet from the depth of the river, and its slugglish movement, I should conclude the ftubsideuce affected the whole bed. That the trees are not wholly decayed down to low water mark, proves that the subsidence is, comparitively, of recent date ; and their undisturbed, natural position, proves that it took place in u tranquil manner, not by any tremendous convulsion of nature. The cause lies concealed, but the fact is plain. That parts of forests may in this way submerge, is evident from similar facts. The noted one on the eastern coast of Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, England, is about fifteen feet below low water marls, extending eastward, a considerable distance from the shore, of which stumps and roots arc seen in their natural position. So manifest is the evidence of great changes having taken place by volcanic power, in these regions West of the Rocky Mountains, both by upheav- ing and subsidence, that we are led to enquire, whether there are not now such agents in operation, and upon such materials, that the valleys shall be literally exalted, and the mountains be made low, and waters spring up in the deserts. The Cascades, so called to distinguish them from the Falls, do not differ very materially from them, except in the wild, romantic scenery around. There is no perpen- dinular fall, but the water concentrates, from its wide spread form, to a very narrow compass, and then rushes with great impetuosit\ down an almost perpendicular pre- cipice, twenty or thirty feet, and continues in a foaming and whirling descent most of the way five miles farther, where it meets the tide-waters from the Pacific ocean. Above the fklls, in the river, there are many islands, none of which Alii is a I only have are verj large — some ar'' only volcanic rocks. About the Cascades, and many miles below, it is very mountainous, especially on the South side. Their volconic peaks are as diversified in their shapes, as they are numerous, being conical, denticulated, and needle-pointed, rising from one to fifteen hundred feet. While imagination generally over- draws her pictures, there will be no danger here, even if she should exert all her powers. A little above the Cascades, upon the North shore, there is a small village of Chenooks. These Indians are the only real Flatheads and Nez Percys, or pierced noses, I have found. They flatten their heads, and pierce their noses. The flattening of their heads is not so great a deformity as is generally supposed. From a little above the eyes, to the apex, or crown of the head,' there is a depression, but not generally in adult persons very notice- able. I'he piercing of the nose is more of a deformity, and is done by inserting two small tapering white shells, about two inches long, somewhat in the shape of a thorn, through the lower part of the cartilaginous division of the nose. I called at this village to obtain men to carry our canoe by the portage of the Cascades. They wished to engage in trade with me in several articles of small value, which I declined, informing them, that my business was of a differ- ent nature. After considerable delay, I obtained four Indians to carry the canoe about one hundred rods by the principal rapids, or falls, for which I gave each five charges of pow- der and balls ; and an additional reward to one, to carry a part of my baggage a mile and a half past the most dan^ gerous rapids, to a basin just below another rapid, formed by large rocks, confining the river to a very narrow pas- sage, and through which it rushes with great impetuosity. My Indians ran the canoe over this rapid. I was much concerned for their safety ; but they chose to do it. Two years before this time, the men of the Hudson Bay Com* pany, cordelled several bateaux, down this rapid — part of the men going in the boats, and part on the shore cordelling. The rope of one broke, and the bateaux in spite of the efforts of the men in it, was hurried out into the surging, and whirling waves among the rocks— capsized, and all were lost. I walked about four miles, imtil I had passed all the ra- ! I 90 i r h .1. f » pids of any epeoial danger. About three-fourths of a mile below the uppermost Cascade, ibllowing an Indian path, I came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which were several houses of a forsaken village, which were both larger and far better than any I had seen in hay Indian country. They were about sixty feet long, and thiiiiy-five wide, the frame work very well oonstmcted, and covered with split planks and cedar bark. A little back of these houses, there is a small lake, in which were a number of wild ducks, enjoying the comforts of life. As 1 c. utinncd down the Indian path, at no great distance from the village, I came to several depositories of their dead. They were built of plank, split from balsam fir and cedar, about eight feet long, six wide, and five high, and well covered. At one end is what may be called a door, upon which are paintings of various devices, which do not appear to be designed for any other purpose than for ornament. Some hsjtd painting upon the sides, us well as upon the doors. I had with me two Indians, who paid no particular attention to them, more than we should in passing a burying ground. They pointed me to them, and made a short solemn pause, without any actions, which would indicate their paying any homage to pictures, or any other object. The number of these depositories I did not ascertain, as many of them were 3o far decayed, as hardly to be distinguishable ; but of t'tiose in good condition there were eight or ten. Below this v/e passed several houses of far less magnitude than those above ; and while the floors of those were on a level with the surface of the grpund, these were sunk about four feet below, and the walls rising only about three feet above the ground. It would seem these were designed for winter habitations, but at this time their occupants were all absent. At the distance of four miles below the main cataract, the country on the North side, spreads out into a level plain, which near the river is a prairie, a little distance back covered with dense forests ; while on the South side of the river it is very mountainous. Toward the lower part of Brant island I re-embarked, and we proceeded a few miles farther, and encamped below Pillar rock, over against an extraordinary cascade of water, which descends the mountains from the South. Pillar rock is of basaltic formation, situated on the North side of the river, a few rods from the shore, on a narrow strip of rich Df a mile n path, I e several rger and country, ^de, the ^ith split les, there ducks, own the lage, I Qy were ut eight ■ed. At hich are 9T to be Some oors. I ittention ground. n pause, paying number of them 'le; but Below de than a level >ut four t above ' winter absent. ict, the 1 plain, } back of the >arked, below water, ir rock of the )f rich 91 bottom-land, wholly isolated, rising five hundred feet, on the river-side perpendicular, and on the others nearly so. Ujpon all, except the river-side, there are some very narrow ofreets upon which grow some cedars, and also a very few upon the highest point. The base in comparison with the height, is very Hmall, giving the whole the appearance of an enormous pillar. This is one of the astonishing won- ders of volcanic operations. The cascade upon the South side of the river is a plea- sing wonder. According to the best estimation I could make, its whole descent is not less than a thousand feet. There are several narrow offsets, from most of which the water descends in a white, foaming sli "t, at an angle of sixty or eighty degrees, presenting tb T>pearance of a white stripe laid upon the side of the i a tains. In two parts of the descent there are perpendicular falls ; the last and lowest is probably not less than two hundred feet, and before the stream reaches the bottom, it is so dissipated into spray, by the accelerating power of the attraction of gravi- tation, that it disappears, until again collected at the foot of the mountain, and winds its way a short distance into the Columbia. On the morning of the 16th, I arose before day, called my Indians, and as soon as any light appeared, we again launched out into the broad river in our frail canoe. For about ten miles, the surrounding country was mountainous, forming bold shores; after which the mountains recede, and the river spreads out in some places from one to three miles wide, and an extensive region around presents the appearance of a rich soil, well adapted to agriculture. There are some fine prairies, but far the greatest part is thickly wooded. In this part of the river there are many fertile islands, some of which are large ; the current moves on gently, and the whole scenery around is fascinating. As I descended towards the great Pacific ocean, water fowl, such as geese, swans, and a very great variety of ducks began to multiply ; also every now and then seals made their ap- pearance, so that I became cheered with the increasing exhibitions of animated nature, greater than I had witnesed since leaving the buffalo country. Unexpectedly, about the middle of the day, on the North shore, in a thick grove of large firs, I saw two White men with a yoke of oxen drawing logs for sawing. I hailed them, and enquired of f * 11*1 m m It i V I l^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ v 1.0 1.1 ■tt Bi 122 S? I£& 12.0 "^ ^w J^ FhotogFaphic Sdences Corporation 23 tMBT MAIN STMIT WnSTM.N.Y. 14SM (71«)t7a-4S03 4fS ^ .« ;V 9s them die dietesee to Fort Vaoooaver. They replied, ** only seven nuke around yonder pomt, down that prairie." Soon we oame to a very large saw-mill, aroond which wore lar^ piles of lumber and several cottages. This looked Uke bannesB upon a much greater scale man I had expected. I called a short time at this fjstablishment, where I found several Scotch labourers belongpng to the Hudson-^Bay Company, with their Indian fiunilies* Althoiu;h it was then about noon, they offered me a breakfiut of peas and iish, taking it £br granted, that men who travel these West- ern r^;ion8, eat only when they can get an opportunity. At two in the afternoon, arrived at Fort Vancouver, and never did I feel more joyful to set my feet on shore, where I expected to find a honntable people, and the comforts of life. Doct. J. McLaughlin, a chief Factor, and Superinten- dent of this fort, and of the business of the Company West of the Rocky Mountains, received me with many expressions of kindness, and invited me to make his residence my home for, the winter, and as long as it would suit my o(mvenience. Never could such an, invitftioi^ be more thankfully re- ceived. It was now seven months and two days since I. left my home, and during that time, exceptingaa few delays, I had been constantly journeying, and the iUty-six last days with Indians only. I felt that I had great reason for gratitude to Qod for bis merciful providences toward me,' in defend*^ ing, and so providing for me, that I had not actually aifffertd a single day for the want of food. For months 1 had no bread, nor scarcely any vegetables, and I often felt that a change and a variety would have been agreeable, but in no case did I tuffer, nor in any case was I brought to the ne- cessity of eating dagt or horse feth. In every exigency God provided something wholesome and palatableL ^y replied, It prairie." rhioh wa% ookedlike expected. «I found ideon^Ba^ rh it was peaeiand 5se West- xxttoniiy. iver, and re, where mfopts of perinten- ^ Wert of ^ssioiis of ay home enience. ^ully re- left mj 8, 1 had lys with Tatitade defend-, »Hff^rwd had no that a it in no the ne> agency CHAPTER IX. Fort Vanconver ii •itnated on tha North side of the Columbia river, about lAxtv rods from tha ihore, upon a prairie of some few hundred ftoret, tttrronnded with dense woods. The country around (or a great dirtance, is gene* rally level, and of ffood toil, ooverad with heavy forests, excepting some prairies interspened, and presents a pleas- ing aspect. It is in North latitude 46* BT, and longitude 122* 50', West from Greenwich— one hundred miles from the Pacific ocean. The enclosure if stronfflj stockaded, thirty-seven rods long, and eighteen wide, facing the South: There are about one hundred white persons l^longing to this Establishment, and an IncUan population of threis hun- dred in a small compass condguous. There are eight sub- stantial buildings within the enclosure, and a great number of small ones without, making auite a village-appearance. October 17th. After one night's rest in this fort, 1 left for Fort George, situated ninety-one miles below this, near the confluence of the ColumUa with the Pacific, known in the United States by the name of Astoria. I took this early departure that 1 might visit the bwer part of the river and the sea coast, and return before the rainy season should commence ; and also to avail myself of a passage in the May Dacre of Boston, Capt. Lambert, a brig belonging to Capt. Wyeth and Company, which was Mng twenty-five miles below, at the lowest mouth of the Multnomah. Mr. J. K. Townsend, an omitholigisty from Philadelphia, ac- companied me to the brig. Ohar canoe was large, and pro- pelled by Sandwich islanders, of whom there are many in this country, who have come here as sailors and labourers. Five miles below the fort, we passed the main branch of the Multnomah river. It is a large river coming from the South, and is divided bv islands mto four branches, at its eonfiuence with the dolnmbia. Here commences the Wftppatoo island, so called from a nutritive root found in the small lakes in the interior, which hi much sought for by Indians as an article of food. This island is about eighteen miles long, and five miles wide, formed by a part 94 of the Multaomah, branching off about six miles up the main river, ranning in a Westerly and North-westerly di- rection, and again uniting with the Columbia eighteen miles below the main branch. The branch which flows aromid and forms the island, :ia aboirt fHeen rods wide, and of suf- ficient depth for smidl shipping most of the jear. It was upon this isltoid the Multnootah Indie^os formerly resided, but they have become,* as a bribe, extinct. The Imd is very fertile, and most of it sufficiently high to be free from injury by the June freshet Home pacts of it are prairie, but die greatest part is well wooded with oak, ash, balsam fir, and the species of poplar, oft^i called Balm of Gileadj and by most travellers, cotton-wood. At the South-west of this island, there is a range of mountains, which render a space of country broken, but beyond these, it is said by hunters, that there is an extensive valley well adapted to agricul- ture. * We arrived at the landing place of the May Dacre, five o'clock in the afternoon, and were politely received on board by Capt. Lambert. The brig was moi^red along side a natural wharf of basalt. Subbath October, 18th. Part of the day I retired to a small prairie back from the river to be free from the noise of labour in which the men were engaged in preparing for their voys^e ; and part of it I passed in the state room which was assigned me. There is much reason to lament the entire disregard manifested by many towards God's holy Sabbath. His justice will not always be deferred. Those, who will not submit to divine authority, must reap the fruit of their disobedience. None can slight and abuse the mercy of God with impunity. October 19th, Monday. The brig fell down the river with the tide, about three miles, but for want of wind anchored. In the afternoon I went on shore for exercise, taking with me a Kanaka, that is, a Sandwich islander, for assistance in any danger. I made a long excursion through woods and over prairies, and found the country pleasant and fertile. The grass on the prairies was green, and might furnish subsistence for herds of cattle. When will this immensely extended itnd fertile country be brought under cultivation, and be filled with an industrious popu- lation? From time immemorial, the natives have not atretehed forth a hand to till the ground, nor made an 96 effort for die earth to jield a single article of produce, more than what Bpringeiip ^potitaneoiiily ; nor will they, until their minds are enlightened by divine truth. No philanthro{H8t, who is not under the influence of efariitian principles, wUl ever engage in the self-denying work of enlightening their minds and arousing them from thdr indolence. As, on our frontiers, so on these Western shoKs, the work of destruction, introduced by those who would be called the friends of man» is going forward. The Indians in this lower country, that is, below the Cascades, nre only the remnants of once numerous and powerful nations. The evening was clear and pleasant, which gave us an opportunity to see the comet, whi6h was observed by HaUey in the year 1682, and which was seen again in 1759, and now in 1835, proving its time of revolutioh to be about seventy-six and a half years. Its train of light was very perceptible and of about twelve degrees length. We had a favourable wind on the 20th, which, with the current of the river, enabled us to make good progress on our way. Among the many islands, with which the lower part of this river abounds. Deer island, thirty-three miles below Fort Vancouver, is worthy of notice. It is large, and while it is sufficiently wooded along the shores, the interior is chiefly a prairie covered with an exuberant growth of grass and vmes of different kinds, excepting the grape, of whic!i there is none West of the Rocky Mountains of natural gro^-th. In the interior of this island there are several small lakes, which are the resort of swans, geese, and ducks. This island was fonnerly the residence of many f ndisms, but they are gone, and nothing is to be seen except the remains of a large village. Among some interesting islands of basalt, there is one called Coffin Rook, twenty three miles below Doer island, situated in the middle of the river, rising ten or fifteen feet above high freshet water. It is almost entirely covered with canoes, in which the dead are deposited, which circmn- stance gives it its name. In the section of country from W4ppatoo island to the Pacific ocean, the Indians, instead of committing their dead to the earth, deposit them in canoes, and these are placed in such situations as are most secure from beasts of prey — ^upou such precipices as this island, upon branches of trees, or upon scaffolds made for the purpose. The bodies of the dead are covered with 06 mats and split j^laoki are placed dvefr them. The head of the canoe is a httle raised, and at the foot there is a hole made forirater to escape. A few miles below Coffin island, the Cowalitz, a river of considerable magnitude coming from the North-east, flows into the Colnmbia, which is apont thirty rods wide, deep, and navigable for boats a ver^conaiderable distance. The country up this river is said' to equal in richness of soil, any part of the Oregon Territory, and to be so diversified with woods and prairies, that the fanner could at once reap the fruits of his labour. Anchored for the night, on account of numerous sand- bars and the win^ngs of the navigable channel. The evening was cloudy, and there was the appearance of a gathering storm ; but we were so surrounded with high hills, that the situation was considered safe. October 21st. The wind, was light, which rendered our progress slow. This section of the country is mountain- ous, the ranges running from the South-east to the North- west, and covered with a very dense and heavv growth of wood, mostly fir and oak. A Chief of the Skilloots with a few of his people came on board. He was very talkative and sportive. When he was about to leave, he told Capt. Lambert that as they had been good friends, and were now about to separate, he wished for a present. Capt. L. told his steward to give him a shirt. The chief took it and put it on, and then said, ''how much better would a new pair of pantaloons look with this shirt." The captain ordered, him the article asked for. Now said the chief, ** a vest would become me, and increase my influence with my people." This was also given. Then he added, '* well, Tie*, I suppose we shall not see each other again, can you see me go away without a clean blanket, which would make me a full dress." The captain ansvrered, " go about your business ; for there is no end to your as^g, so long M I continue to give." Then the Chief brought forward a little son, and said, <' he is a good boy ; will you not make him a present ?" Captain L. gave him a few small articles, and they went away rejoicing more over the presents, which they received, than sorrowing for the * Chief, or Oeotltaan. 97 M head of e it a hole a river of MMt^floWB ide, deep, ce. The w of soa, iversified once reap me sand- el The nee of a ^th high ieredonr iountain- e North- rowth of » with a talkative »ld Capt. rere now li. told and put lew pair ordered. "& vest ith mv "well, san you would > about BO long orward ou not ^smtdl er the w the departure of the May Dacre. We passed to-day Pillar rock, which stands isolated, more tluuii half a nule from the north shore, composed of basalt, and is about forty feet high, and fifteen in diameter. We anchored a few miles below. On the morning of the 22nd, we waited for a favourable tide until nine o'clock, when we got under way with a brisk wind from the east. Here the river begins to spread out into a bay, but owing to many shoals, the navigation is difficult. We ran agroimd, but the increase of the tide set us afloat again, and soon the great Pacific ocean opened to our view. This boundary of the ** far west" was to me an object of great interest; and when I looked upon the dark rolling waves, and reflected upon the vast expanse of five thousand miles, without an intervening island until you arrive at the Japan coast, a stretch of thought was requi- red, like contemplating infinity, which can measure only by succession its expansion and sublimity. Like the vanish- ing lines of prospect, so is contemplation lost in this extent of ocean. As we proceeded on our way, we left Gray's bay at the right, extending inland to the north some&w miles in which, on a voyage of discovery, the ship Columbia anchored, and from whose Commander the bay took its name. Nearly opposite we passed Tongue Point, which extends nearly two miles into the bay or river, from the south. It is con- siderably elevated, rocky, and covered with woods. Soon afler this Astoria was announced. My curiosity was exci- ted. I looked, but could not discover what to aU on board, was so plainly seen — ^I blamed my powers of vision — and reluctantly asked the captain, where is Aatoria ? ** Why," he replied, "right down there — that is Aatpria." I said within myself, is that the ** far famed New York of the West ?" Sic transit gloria mundi ! fi 98 CHAPTER X. When we arrived in the small bay, upon which Fort George (Astoria) is situated, Captain Lambert manned a boat to take me on shore, in which he also embarked to paj his respects to the governor, who had the politenesss to meet us at the landing, and invited us, with hearty welcome, to his dwelling. After having interchanged the customary salutations, and made a short stay, the oaptedn re-embarked and made his way for Cape Disappointment; and the wind and tide being favourable, without any delay, he passed the dangerous bar, and shaped his course for Boston. Fort George is situated on the south side of the bay, ten miles from Cape Disappointment, is without any fortifica- tions, has only two small buildings made of hewed loga ; about two acres clesured, a part of which is cultivated with potatoes, and garden vegetables. It is occupied by two white men of the Hudson Bay Company, for the purpose of trade With the few remaining Indians, who reside about these shores. Though this is the present condition of Asto- ria, yet the time must come, when at the mouth of this noble river, there Will be a place of business, and especially may this be expected, as this bay affords the only good harbour for a long distance on this coast. I should think the north side of the bay, a little above the Cape, adjoining what is called Baker's bay, would be the most desirable location for a place of business, as that is the safest place for ships to ride at anchor. On that side of the Columbia bay, the country is more open and pleasant for a commercial town. On the south side, where Astoria was located, the moun- tains or high hills come down very near the shore, are rocky and precipitous, preventing a southern prospect, and in the short winter days of a north latitude of 46** 17' they almost exclude the sun. A difficulty, of such a nature as is not easily overcome, exists in regard to the navigation of this river, which is the sand-bar at its entrance. It is about five miles across the bar from Cape Disappointment out to sea. In no part of that distance is the water upon the bar over eight fa- n-"T'.--r.-::,',.i.:--jr7»-.**T*.'^:^*'."*lni^ri-?:^'" 09 ich Fort tanned a arked to enesss to irelcome, tstomary nbarked and the elaj, he Boston. t)ay, ten brtifica- 3d logs ; ted with hy two purpose ie about )f Asto- is noble U^ma^- larbour e north Krhat is ocation [• ships a^* the I town, moun- re, are it, and r- they come/ ich is icross 3 part ht fa- thoms, and in one place only five, and the channel only about half a mile wide. And so wide and open is the ocean, that there is always a heavy swell, and when the wind is above a gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the bar, and there is no passing it except when the wind and tide are both very favourable. Without the bar, there is no anchorage, and there have been instances, in the winter season, of ships laying off and on thirty days, waiting for an opportunity to pass ; and always a good pilot is needed. Perl)aps there have been more lives lost here, in proportion to the number of those who have entered this river, than in entering almost any other harbour in the world. But the calamities have been less frequent, for some years past, than formerly ; and should a steam-boat be stationed at the Cape when business shall be sufficiently multiplied to warrant the expense, to tow vessels over, the delays and dangers would be greatly diminished. The main bay is four miles wide at the mouth of the river, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams ; extends sixteen miles up the river ; is nine miles wide be- tween Chenook bay on the north, and Young's bay on the south ; and seven wide between Fort George and Chenook point. It is filled with many sand-bars, and one, which is called Sand island, a little within the Capes, seen only when the tide is down, is dangerous to ships when not in the charge of skUful pilots. 1^ The section of country about the sea-coast is very rough and mountainous, and covered with the most heavy and dense forest of any part of America of which I have any knowledge. The trees are almost all of the geans pinus, but I saw none of the species commonly call( ' vine, any where below the Cascades. The balsam fir, of w:\ich there are three species, constitutes far the greatest part of the forest trees. White cedar, spruce, hemlock, and yew, are inter- spersed. Three species of oak, of which the white is far the most common, prevail in small sections ; and in some low bottom-lands, the species of poplar conmionly called the balm of Giiead, and by some, bitter cotton-wood, is most general. The balsam fir grows very large ; not nn- frequently four and six feet in diameter, and two hundred feet high. I measured one which was eight feet in diame- ter, and about two hundred and fifty feet high. As I do not here intend to enter upon the dendrology of this coun- 100 try, I pMt ikrth«r rmnarki upon thii subjeot for the present. There ore lomfl traott of good land, which might eaeilv be bronght nnder ouldvfttion, in different parts of this monntainous and iron-boond coast. One about Young's bay, extending down to and about Point Adams. This would be a &vourable location for a Missionary station, where access could be had to the Clatsop and Ikillamook Indians, who are 8»id to be numerous. At this season of the year, there are but few Indians who reside about this trading-post, finding it more for their comfort to retire into the forests, during the rainy season of the winter, locating themselves upon small prairies along rivers and streams, where fuel is eadly obtained, and where some game is found to add to their winter's stock of pro- visions. During my continuance in this place it was my intention to cross the bay over to Chenook point, and irom thence down to Cape IMsappointment, wMch it is said affords a very extensive and mteresting prospect. But from day to day it rained, and the high wmds created such a sea in the whole bay, that it was not safe to attempt the passage. October 24th, the wind was high, and the weather very uncomfortable, and in the afternoon the storm increased accompanied with snow, which, however, melted as &st as it fell. The sea fowl appeared to be alarmed by the severi- ty of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and came in fi'om the ocean in great numbers, flying and screaming, as if in search of a safe retreat. The storm being somewhat moderated on the 26th, Mr. Dunn, the superintendant of the fort, and myself, for exer- cise took our rifles to so back into the woods to hunt deer. But so dense was the forest, so filled and interwoven with various vines and shrubbery, that it was next to impossible to make any progress, and we did not penetrate the woods more than one mile, before we gave up the object, and turned our course back, which, with diligent efforts, occu- pied some hours. If a luxuriant growth of trees and shrub- bery is indicative of a rich soil, then no part of the world can surpass the country about these shores. The morning of the 27th was pleasant and inviting for a water excursion ; but on account of sudden changes of weather, which are common at this season of the year, I did not think it best to cross the wide bay, but took four Che lin, noe fort. vou attl had thai dan exo of< up m preient. ht eatilv I of thja Young'g • This ' station, illamook Indians for their easonof es along id where ■ of pro- ntention 1 thenoe iffords a 1 da^ to la in the age. er verj- icreased B&stas ■ severi- d came «ming, th,Mr. r exer- it deer, n with ossible woods t, and ooca- ihnib. world »g for res of Jar, I :four Chenook Indians and a half-breed, named Thomas Kip- lin, who could speak Eiwlish, and went in a large ca- noe down to Clatsop and Point Adams, nine miles from the fort. There was a gentle wind from the east, which fa- voured hoisting a small sail. This gave us a pleasant sail at the rate of eight miles an hoiir. B7 this time the waves had so increased, and the white caps were so numerous, that to one not acquainted with nautical adventures, the danger in a canoe appeared great. We could do nothing, except to run before the wind, and when we were upon the top of one wave, it seemed the next plunge would swallow us up. Fears were of no use in this situation, and I therefore kept up such conversation as was calculated to suppress any which might arise in the minds of the men. It was inter- esting to see how the Indians would take the waves with their paddles so as to favour the safety of the canoe. But our rapid pri^ess soon brought us to the shore near Point Adams. Here a new difficulty, and unexpected to me, arose, which was, how should we land in the high surf; but my sldliul mariners watched an opportunity to shoot the canoe forward as far as possible on a flowing wave, and as soon as it broke, they leaped into the water and seized the canoe and lightened it over the returning surge, and drew it up beyond the reach of the waves. This management was an ocular demonstration of the skill of Indians on dangerous seas. I took Kiplin with me and walked several miles on the hard and smooth sandy beach, so &r around to the south, that I had a view of the coast north and south, as far as the eye|oould reach. High, and, in most parts, per- pendicular basaltic rocks lined the shores. Who but that Being, who sets bounds to the sea, and has said to the proud waves, hitherto shalt thou come and no farther, reared these volcanic walls ? This vast expanse of ocean and these stupendous works of God naturally M the mind with awe. In returning, I walked several miles farther than the place where we landed along the shores toward Young's bay, and went on board the brig Lama, Captain McNiel, which was on its way up to the fort. In my excursion about Clatsop, and Point Adams, I saw several canoes containing the dead, deposited as I have already described. I have mentioned the bar at the mouth of the Columbia, 109 and Sand Island, as dangerous to those who are not well aocmainted with the entranoe into this river. In the vear 1828| the ship William and Anne was cast awajr a utUe within the har. All on hoard, twenty-six in numher, were lost, and it could not he ascertained what were the circum- stances of the lamentable catastrophe, as no one was left to tell the stor/. There were conjectures that after the ship had run aground, the Indians for the sake of plunder killed the crew. This is only conjecture ; but it is very strange, that as they were not far from the shore, and the beach was sandy, none escaped. The Indians carried off and se- creted whatever of the goods they could find. The men of the Hudson Bay Company sent to the chiefs to deliver up what they had taken away. They sent Dr. McLaughlin at Fort Vancouver two small articles of no value. Doct. M. with an armed force went down to the Chenooks and demanded a surrender of the goods. The chief with his warriors put himself in the attitude of resistance, and fired upon the men of the Hudson Bay Company. They re- turned the fire with a swivel, not to injure them, but to let them know with what force they had to contend, if they persisted in their resistance. G^ this the Indians all fled into the woods. The doctor with his men landed and searched for the goods, many of which they found. Whilst they were searching, the chief was seen skulking and draw- ing near — and cocked his gun, but before he had time to fire, one of the white men shot him down. None besides were hurt. This was done, as the men of the Hudson Bay Company say, not so much for saving the value of the property, as to teach the Indians not to expect profit from such disasters, and to take away temptation to murder white men for the sake of plunder. On the 23d of May, 1830, the ship Isabella was cast away upon a sand-bar projecting from Sand Island, which is a little within the capes. As soon as she struck, the men all deserted her, and \, ithout stopping at Fort George, made their way to Fort Vancouver. It is thought, that if they had remained on board, and waited the tide, she might have been saved. The cargo was mostly saved. In 1811, the Tonquin, sent out from New York by Mr. Astor, to form a Fur-trading establishment at or near the mouth of this river, lost eight men in crossing the bar. not well the Year J a little ber, were e ciroum- ^aa left Xo the ship derkillea strange, each was and se- e men of 'liver up ^ughlin Doct. >ok8 and v«^ith his nd fired hej re- nt to let if the^r all fled led and Whilst d draw- time to besides [)nBay of the t from Qurder s cast s^hich emen made the;r have Mr. rthe bar. 108 The oaladlity resulted from the ignorance of Captain Thorn of the dangers, and his great want of prudence. About thirty miles south of tlds river, there are the re- mains of a ship sunk not far from the shore. It is not known by whom she was owned, nor from what part of the world she came, nor when oast awaj. The Indkns fre- quentl/ get bees wax from her. It is not improbable that sne was from some part of Asia. A Japanese junk was cast away, fifteen miles south of cape Flattery in March, 1833. Chit of seventeen men, only three were saved. In the following May, Captain McNeil of the Lama, brought the three survivors to Fort Vancouver, where they were kindly treated by the gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company and in the rollowing October, they were sent in one of their ships to England, to be forwarded to their own country and home. This junk was loaded with rich China ware, cotton clothes, and rice. In the same year, eleven Japanese, in distress, were drifted in a junk to Oahu, Sandwich islands. It is not a very uncom- mon thing, that junks and other craft have been found by whale-ships, in the great Pacific ocean, in a state of starvation, without die nautical instruments, and skill of mariners to enable them to find their way to any port of safety. Undoubtedly many are entirely lost, while others drift to unknown shores. May not the above facts throw light upon the original peopling of America, which has engaged the attention of men for a long period. While one man demonstrates to his own satisfaction, that the first inhabitants of this con- tinent must have crossed from the north-east part of Asia, because of the resemblance of the people to each other, and the ease with which the strait is passed in canoesi — an- other with no less certainty, proves from the diversity of languages, from the impossibility of tracing their origin, and from other reasons, that an equinoxial union of Africa and America must have existed in some age of the world since the universal deluge, and some violent convulsion of nature has since dissevered them. Others would confine them to the descendants of the Jews, and industriously trace in their customs, the ancient worship and rites of God's peculiar people. Some see in them the confirmation of their favourite theory, that human institutions and states, like human and vegetable nature, have their birth, growth, 104 maturity, and decaj ; and believe that, as it respects these tribes, these tendencies have already, for centuries, been in operation to produce their extinction. But from whatever single or numerical ctiiiies thej have had their origin, their own traditions, and the histories of more civilized nations, seem imable to inform us. Physical causes alone, we think, are adequate to account for the many features of resem- blance which they possess, even though they might, at different and distant periods of time have been drifted, or in any other manner found their way, from remote countries. About this time of the year, water fowl of various genera and species begin to visit the bays and lagoons, and as the season advances, they gradually proceed into the interior of the country, and the rivers and lakes abound with them. Geese, swans, ducks, and gulls wing their way over us, and their screams, particularly of swans, are at times almost deafening. The swan is not the one common in the United States. It is the Bewick's swan, but is characterized by the same unsullied plumage, its attitudes and motions, while sailing over its liquid element, are equally graceful, and its voice even louder and more sonorous. Of the geese there are four kinds ; the white, white fronted, the Canada, and Hutchins. Of the ducks, there are the black or surf duck, the canvass-back, the blue-bill, the long-tailed, the harlequin, the pin-tail, and the golden-eyed. The number of these waterfowl is immense, and may be seen on the wing, swimming upon the waters, or searching for their food along the shores. They constitute a large item of Indian living and trade, and find a conspicuous place upon the tables of the gentlemen engaged in the Fur-business. Wednesday, October ^Sth. I took passage on board a canoe, going on an express from the Lama, recently arrived from a northern voyage to and about Queen Charlotte's Island, to Fort Vancouver. The canoe was large, carrying about fifteen hundred weight, including men and baggage, manned by three White men and three Indians. The day was pleasant, more so than any we had had for many past, which was a favourable circumstance for passing through the bay, and around Tongue Point, where the current was so strong, that it required the full exertion of the men to double it. Ten miles further, we passed Pillar Rock, a few miles above which, we encamped on the North shore, where 105 ks these J been in fhatever h their lations, thmk, iresem- feht, at led, or [remote genera as the terior them. 9f and almost United zed hy otions, ■acefiil, e geese anada, )r Buif id, the umber >n the their 5m of upon ird a rived Me' a •jing ?age, 'day past, mgh was Q to few lere the mountains came down so close to the shore, that we hardly found room to pitch my tent above high tide water. The men made a large fire, which was cheering and com- fortable, and the supper which they prepared was eaten with a keener appetite than many a one amidst all the applian- ces of wealth and luxury. On the 29th, arose before day, and was willing to take an early departure from a place where tide and mountains disputed territory. By diligently pursuing our way until eight in the evening, we made forty-five miles, which was a great day's work in going up the river against the current, which is strong when the tide is setting out. I noticed on my return, a singular rooky point on the North shore, a short distance below Uie Cowalitz, rising nearly perpendicularly about one hundred feet high, separated firom the adjacent high hills, and very much in the form of Coffin-rook. ' It was covered with canoes containing the dead. These deposito- ries are held in great veneration by the Indians. They are not chosen for convenience, but for security against raven- ous beasts; and are often examined by the firiends of the de- ceased, to see if the bones of their dead repose in undistur- bed quiet. And such is their watchfiil care, that the anatomist could rarely make depredations without detection, or with impunity. And if they have such regard for their dead, are they without affection for their living relatives and friends ? Are they " callous to all the passions but rcye ?" Are they " steeled against sympathy and feeling?" And have they no happiness except what <' exists in the vis- ionary dreaming of those, who never contemplated their actual condition ?" Have those, who charge upon the In- dian character ** sullen gloom, want of curiosity and surprise at what is new or striking," had extensive personal ac- quaintance with many different nations and tribes; and have they gained their familiar friendship and confidence ? I am firm in the belief, that the character of unabused un- contaminated Indians will not lose in comparison with any other nation that can be named; and the only material difference between man and man, is produced by the imbi- bed principles of the Christian religion. ) Wishing to avail ourselves of cahn weather and a favour- able moon, we kept on our way in the evening until thick- ening clouds and descending rain admonished us of the ne- cessity of finding an encamping-place ; and while doing this, k2 106 we ran upon a log, which came very near upsettmg us in deep water. But by two men getting out upon the log, and lifting the canoe, with much exertion we got off safely. After passing round a point we saw a light on the North shore, to which we directed our course and landed, where we found a small company of Indians encamped under a large projecting rock, giving shelter from the storm. They kindly shared their accommodations with us, and my tent was pitched under the concavity of the rocks ; and mats, skins, and blankets made me a comfortable bed upon small stcfaes. A good fire and refreshing supper obliviscited the labours of the day, and dangers of thu evening. October 30th. Arose before day, and although it was a rainy morning, yet it was sufficiently calm for the express to prosecute their voyage. I so managed my mats and skins, as to shield myself and baggage from the rain ; but the men whose business it was to propel the canoe were exposed to the chilling raia ; and after a few hours' labour and exposure, we arrived at the place where the May Dacre had made her harbour, near where the Southern section of the Willamette discharges its waters into the Columbia. We brought our canoe into a small bay indented in the basaltic rocks, and drew it so far upon the shore, that it was thought safe without any other security ; and all hastened to kindle a fire in a thatched building, which was constuc- ted by some Kanakas for the accommodation of the May Dacre. This shelter was very desirable to protect us from the storm, and to give the men an opportunity to dry their clothes. Whilst we were preparing and eating our break- fast, the fiowiug tide, which swells the river and slackens the current, but does not stop it, took our canoe from its moorings, and drifted it a considerable distance down the river. Some Indians whose residence was far up the Cowalitz, and who were descending in their canoes down the river, saw it, arid returned with it before we knew it was gone. This act proved them to be susceptible of kind- ness, and increased my confidence in their integrity. It was of too much importance to go unrewarded. The ca- noe contained valuable baggage, and we should have been left without any means of going on our way. We could not have crossed the Willamette nor Columbia river, and in addition the wood and undergrowth are next to im- passable. Before the middle of the day, the storm abated, v.j f8l % "?r3S' !U" '""'!%'5SK 107 us in ^g>and safelj. [North ■where ider a They \j tent mats, small 3d the was a It and the remainder of our wty to Fort Vanconver was pleasant, at which place we arrived before evening. We were less than three da/e in aecompUehing the passage from one fort to the other, and these were the only three calm days for a long time before and after. CHAPTER XI. Here, bj the kind invitation of Dr. McLaughlin, and welcomed by the other sentlemen of the Hudson Bay Com- pany, I took up my rendence for the winter ; intending to make such excursions as the leaeon may admit, and the ob- ject of my tour may demand. As this is the principal tra- ding-post of the Company, West of the Rocky Mountains, it may be expected that many Indians from different partg of the country for considerable distance around, may be seen here during the winter, and more information obtained of their character and condition than could be in any other course I could pursue. Here also, traders from different stations. West of the mountains, will come in for new sup- plies, of whose personal acquaintance with Indians I may avail myself. Sabbath, November 1st. By hivitation, I preached to a congregation of those belonging to this establishment who understand English. Many of the labourers are French Canadians who are Roman CathoUes, and do not under- stand English. This trading-post presents an important field of labour ; for if a Christian innuence can be exerted here, it may be of incalculable benefit to the surrounding Indian population. Let a branch of Christ's Idngdom be established here, with ks concomitant expansive benevolence exerted anddi^sed, then thid place would be a centre, from which divine light would shine out, and illumine this region of darkness. This is an object of so much importance, that all my pow- ers, and energies, and time, must be employed for its accomplishment ; so that I do not feel that I have a winter of idle confinement before me, but enough labour which lieeds to be done. ■.>,--:-r •v^(,:,'cv 108 Monday, 2d. In taking a review of my joumejings since I left mj home, I can say, thongh long in time and distance, vet they have been pleasant and full of interest. So diversified has been the country through which I have passed, and so varied the incidents, and so few real hard- ships, that the time and distance Imve both appeared short. Although this mission was thought by the Secretaries of the Board to be one which would probably be attended with as great, if not greater dangers and deprivations than any which they have sent into any part of the world, yet my sufferings have been so small, and my mercies so great, that I can say, that if this is taking up the cross, let none be dismayed; for surely Christ's yoke is easy and his burden light. I had thought much on the prospect of hav- ing an opportunity to see whether I could ^'rejoice in sufferings" for the heathen, ** and fill up that which is behind of the a£Elicdous of Christinmyfiesh for his body's sake, which is the church," but the protecting providence of God was so conspicuous, and his mercies so constant, that the opportunity did not appear to be presented. As to want, I experienced only enough to teach me more seruibltf the meaning of the petition, " give us this day our dedly bread ;" and the truth was comforting, that " the Lord giveth to all, their meat in due season." I can say, " hi- therto the Lord hath helped me." I do not know what awaits me, but I still trust the Lord will carry me through, and return me in safety. I am, very agreeably situated in this place. Half of a new house is assigned me, well fiimished, and all the attendance which I could wish, with access to as many valuable books as I have time to read ; and opportunities to ride out for exercise, and to see the adjoining country, as I can desire ; and in addition to all these, and still more valuable, the society of gentlemen enlightened, polished, and sociable. These comforts and privileges were not anticipated, and therefore the more grateful. ^ There is a school connected with this establishment for the benefit of the children of the traders and common labourers, some of whom are orphans whose parents were attached to the Company ; and also some Indian children, who are provided for by the generosity of the resident gentlemen. They are instructed in the common branches of the English language, such as reading, writing, arith- i 109 \ymga and tere8t. have Ihard- Bhort. les of with any Igreat, none id his 'hav- metic, grammar and geography ; and together with these, in religion and morality. The exercises of the school are closed with singing a hymn ; after which, they are taken by their teacher to a garden assigned them, in which they labour. Finding them deficient in sacred music, I instruc- ted them in singing, in which they made good proficiency, and developed excellent voices. Among them there was one Indian boy, who had the most flexible and melodious voice I erer heard. It is worthy of notice, how little of the Indian complex* ion is seen in the half-breed children. Generally they have fair skin, often flaxen hair, and blue eyes. The children of the school were punctual in their attendance on the three services of the Sabbath, and were our choir. Monday, Nov. 23d. The weather being pleasant, though generally very rainy at this season of the year, and wishing to explore the country up the Willamette river, I embraced an opportunity of going with a Mr. Lucier and family, who were returning in a canoe to their residence about fifty miles up that river. Doctor McLoughlin famished and sent on board a large stock of provisions, three or four times more than I should need, if nothing should occur to delay us, but which was a wise precaution. We left Fort Vancouver about one o'clock in the afternoon, and proceeded five miles down the Columbia to the entrance of the Mult- nomah, and about fifteen up the Willamette before we encamped. The name Multnomah, is given to a small section of this river, from the name of a tribe of Indians who once resided about six miles on both sides from its confluence with the Columbia, to the branch which flows down the southern side of the Wappatoo island ; above this section it is called the Willamette. The tide sets up this river about twenty miles, to within a few miles of the falls, and through this distance the river is wide and deep, affording good navigation for shipping. The country about the Multnomah, and also some miles up the Willamette, is low, and much of it is overflowed in the June freshet; but as we ascend, the banks become higher, and are more generally covered with woods. Mr. Lucier told me he was well acquainted with the country around ; that a little back from the banks of the river, there are fine tracts of rich prairie, sufficiently interspersed with woods for all the purposes of fuel, fencing, no and lumber. As we advAnced, a cliain of mountains, ranning from the south-east to the north-west, and which crosses the Columbia river, below Deer Island, runs some distance near and below the Falls along the west shores of this river. There are probablv as manj Indians who navigate with their canoes this nver, as any of the rivers in the lower country ; many of whom I had an opportunity of observing to-day in their busy pursuits, the strokes of whose paddles broke in upon the general silence. One company overtook us towards evening, and encamped with us upon the elevated shore on the east side of the river. Owing to the dampness of the day, and previous rains, we had some difficulty in making a fire, but at length it was accomplished, and the wood was unsparingly supplied. With my tent pitched before a large fire, under the canopy of wide-branching trees, I partook of the stores of my large wicker basket with as much satisfaction as could be felt in any splendid mansion. The blaze of dry crackling fir threw brilliancy around, softened by the dark forest, like the light of the astral lamp ; and theburningbalsam perfumed the air. The latter part of the night, I suffered more with the cold, than at any time in all my journeying, not having taken with me as many blankets as the season required. The morning of the 24th was overcast with clouds, and rendered chilly by a mist settled near the surface of the river, and which collecting in a beautiful frosting upon the surrounding trees, exhibited one of those picturesque fancies, which works of art may imitate, but which only nature can perfect. Soon after resuming the labour of the day, we passed several basaltic islands, some of them of sufficient magnitude to enclose a few acres, others only rocky points, between which the current was strong, requiring much effort to make headway. Part of the way from our last encampment to the Falls, which was six miles, I walked along upon the pebbled shore, where I found calcedony, agate, jasper, and cornelian, of good quality. Two miles below the Falls, there is a large stream which comes in from the South-east, called Pudding river. Its entrance makes a strong current, which we found difficult to stem, and once we were drifted back in spite of all our efforts ; but on the second attempt, we succeeded. We arrived at the falls of the Willamette at one o'clock in the afternoon, and hired eight Clough-e-wall-hah Indians to carry the canoe by the Ill is, we and FallSi the distance of half a mile, and proceeded about five nulea fsxther, and encamped. These Falls, with the'scenery aromid, have much to charm and interest. The river above, spreads out into a wide, deep basin, and runs slowlj and smoothly until within a half mile of the Falls, when its velocity increases, its width diminishes, eddies are formed in which the water turns back as if loth to make the plunge, •but is forced forward by the water in the rear, and when still nearer, it breaks upon the volcanic rocks scattered across the channel, and then, as if resigned to its fate, smooths its agitated surges, and precipitates down an al- most perpendicular of twenty five feet, presenting a some- what whitened column. It was a pleasant day, and the rising mist formed in the rays of the sun a beautiful bow ; and the grass about the falls, irrigated by the descending mist, was in fresh green. The rocks over which the water falls, and along the adjacent shores, are amygdaloid and basalt. The opportunities here for water-power are equal to any that can be named. There cannot be a better situa- tion for a factory village than on the East side of the river, a dry, wide-spread level extends some distance, and the shores form natural whar\'cs for shipping. The whole country around, particularly the East side, is pleasant and fertile. And can the period be far distant, when there will be here, a busy population ? I could hardly persuade my- self that this river had for many thousand years, poured its waters constantly down thesp falls without having facili- tated the labour of man. Absorded in these contemplations, I took out my watch to see if it was not the hour for the ringing of the bells. It was two o'clock and all was still, ex- cept the roaring of the falling water. I called to remem- brance, that in the year 1809, I stood by the falls of the Genesee river, and all was still except the roar of the cata- ract. But it is not so now ; for Rochester stands where I then stood. November 2oth. As soon as the day dawned, we went on board the canoe, and pursued our way up the river, which, for thirty miles, runs from a Westerly durection, and at half-past one, we arrived at McKey's settlement. This and Jarvis' settlement twelve miles above, contain about twenty families. The men are mostly Canadian French- men with Indian wives. There are a very few Americans. The Frenchmen were labourers belonging to the Hudson 112 Bay Compaayi bnt have left that service, and havmg fami- lies, they have oommenoed farming in tlds fertile section of conntrj, which is the best of the Oregon Territory, ^whioh I have as yet seen. It is well divendfied with woods and prairies, the soU rich and sufficiently dry for ccdtivation, and at the same time well watered with small streams and springs. These hunters recently tamed to farmers, culti- vate the most common nsefhl productions — ^wheat of the first quality, to as great extent as their wants require. A grist-mill is just finished, which adds to their comforts. They have a common school in each settlement, instructed by American young men, who are competent to their busi- ness. The forest trees are mostly oak and fir, the latter grow- ing remarkably tall. The misletoe attached to the body and large branches of the oak, is very common. Beautiful dark green bunches of this plant seen upon the leafless trees of winter excite admiration that its verdure should continue, when the trees, from which it derives its life and support are not able to sustain their own foliage. I rode, on Thursday the 26th, twelve miles to the upper settlement, and was delighted with the country. For rich- ness of soil, and other local advantages, I should not know where to find a spot in the valley of the Mississippi supe- rior to this. I saw on the way, a large number of horses, lately brought from California, fattening upon the green luxuriant grass of the prairies. Near this upper settlement, a short distance up the river the Methodist Church of the United States have established a mission among the Calapooah Indians of whom there are but a few remaining. Rev. Messrs. Jason Lee and Daniel Lee are the ordamed missionaries, and Mr. Shep- erd, teacher. Their principal object of labour, for the present, is by means of schools. They had at the time of my visit four- teen Indian children in their school supported in their fam- Uy^ and the prospect of obtaining others as fast as they can accommodate them. Their facilities for providing for their school wre good, having an opportunity to cultivate as much excellent land as they wish, and to raise their necessaries of life iu great abundance, with little more labour, than what the scholars can perform for their support. The Mission- aries have an additional opportunity of usefulness, which 113 is to efltabUsh a Christian influence among the people of these infant settlements. Mr. J. Lee preaches to them on the Sabbath, and they have a very interesting Sabbath- school among the half-breed children. These children generally have fair complexions, astive minds, and make a nne appearance. The prospect is, that this Mission may lay a foundation for extensive usefulness. There is as yet one important desideratum — ^these Missionaries have no wives. Christian White women are very much needed to exert their influence over Indian females. The female character must be elevated ; and until this is done, but little is accomplished ; and females can have access to, and in- fluence over females, in many departments of instruction, to much better advantage than men. And the model, which is furnished by an intelligent and pious family circle, is that kind of practical instruction, whether at home or abroad, which never faOs to recommend the gospel. At the time of my continuance in this place, an epidemic prevailed among the Indians, of which several persons died. In some respects it was singular. The subjects of the complaint were attacked with a severe pain in the ear almost instantaneously, which soon spread through the whole head, with great heat in the part affected ; at the same time the pulse became very feeble and not very fre- quent — soon the extremities became cold, and a general torpor ^read through the whole system except the head — soon they were senseless, and in a short period died. In some cases the attack was less severe, and the patient lin- gered, and after some days convalesced, or continu'id to sink, until death closed his earthly existence. Nov. 27th. I rode out with Mr. J. Lee several miles South to see more of the country. The same rich, black soil continued, furnishing nutritive grass in abundance ; and also the same diversity of wood and prairie. This valley is very wide East and West, generally about fifty miles ; and far more extended North and South. Towards evening we attended the funeral of an Indian boy, who belonged to the school, and who died last night of the epidemic. Most of the children of the school and Sabbath-school attended, and conducted with propriety. On Saturday I returned to McKey's settlement to fuUil an appointment to preach to the inhabitants on the Sabbath. 114 I put up with Mr. Edwards who is temporarily attached to the Misiion, but now teaching school in this settlement. Almost the whole of the inhabitants of this settlement assembled on the Sabbath, and made a very decent congre- gation ; but not more than half could understand Engush. After service I was called to see a Mr. Carthre, who was taken severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which gave him immediate relief, ana applied a blister, and as I after- ward learned, he recovered. Early Monday morning of the 30th, MoKey furnished me with two young Indians to take me in a canoe to the Falls, where we amved safely at three o'clock in the after- noon. Here I engaged two Indians belonging to a small village of Claugh-o-wall-hah Indians, who have a perma- nent residence a little below the Falls. Wanaxka, the Chief, came up to the Falls, where I was about to encamp alone for the niffht, and invited me to share his hospitality at his house. I hesitated what to do, not that I would un- dervalue his kindness, but feared such annoyances as might prevent my rest. On the other hand there was every ap- pearance of a cold, heavy storm, very little wood near, which I could procure for a fire with only my hatchet, and I should be alone, exposed to ravenous wild beasts — ^the latter consideration, however, I scarcely regarded. But believing it would please the Chief, should I accept his in- vitation, I went with him to his dwelling, which wsts along permanent building on the West side of the river, up an elevation of one hundred feet, and near which were several other buildings of nearly the same dimensions. Besides the family of the Chief, there were two other families in the same building, in sections, about twenty feet apart, separated from each other by mats hung up for partitions. Their houses are built of logs split into thick plank. These Indians do not sink any part of their buildings below the surface of the earth, as some of the Indians do, about and below the Cascades. The walls of the Chief's house were about seven feet high, the roofs are more steeply elevated than what is common in the United States, made of the same materials with the walls, only the planks are of less thickness. They have only one door to the house, and this is in the centre of the front-side. They have no chimneys to carry off the smoke, but a hole is lefl open above the fire-place, which is in the centre of each family's 115 shed to lent, jtlement :ongre- pngUsh. iho was 3hgaye after- lished to the Je afler- i small perma- ka, the mcamp pitaUty uldun- a might ery ap- >d near, let, and ts— the . But ; his in- I along up an several besides lies in apart, itions. These w the it and ! were ivated )f the f less , and '^e no open ally's apartment. This answers very well in calm weather, but when there is much wind, the whole building becomes a smoke-house. The fire-place of the Chiefs apartment was sank a foot below the surface of the earth, eight feet square, secured by a firaiiie around, and mats spread upon the floor for the family to sit upon. Their dormitories are on the sides of the apartment, raised four feet above the floor, with moveable ladders for ascent ; and under them they stow away their dried fish, roots, berries, and other effects. There was not an excess of neatness within, and still less without. The Indians in the lower country, who follow fishing and fowling for a livelihood are far fix>m be- ing as neat as those in the upper country, who depend more upon the chase. The latter live in moveable lodges and frequently change their habitations. But these Indians were also kind. They gave me most of one side of the fire-place, spread down clean new mats, replenished their fire, and were ready to perform any service I should wish. I let them fill and boil my tea-kettle, afler which I spread out my stores, so bountifully provided by Dr. McLaughlin, and performed my own cookmg. During the evening, the Chief manifested a dispostiton to be sociable, but we had but a very little language common to us both, besides the language of signs. I'he next thing, when the hour of rest arrived, was to fortify myself against a numerous and insidious enemy. I first spread down the cloth of my tent, then my blankets, and wrapped myself up as securely as I could, and should have cdept comfortably, had I not too fully realised my apprehensions. As soon as day-light appeared, on December 1st, I left the hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two Indians proceeded down the Willamette, about sixteen miles, before we landed for breakfast. I find a great dif- ference in going with or against the current of these rivers. Since going up this river, the number of swans and geese had greatly multiplied upon the waters and along the shores. Their noise, and especially that of the swans, echoed through the woods and prairies. The swan is a beautiful and majestic fowl ; its large body, long neck, clear white, and majestic movements place it among the very first of the winged tribe. The common seal are numerous in this river. It is very difficult to shoot them with the best rifles, on accoimt of their diving with extreme sud- 116 dennem at the flash. I had a fair opportunity to shoot one to-dajy but with one splash he was oat of sight and did not amin appear. When I oame to the Korth-westem branch of the Multnomah, I proceeded down foor miles to Fort William on the Wwppatoo Island, an establishment which belongs to Capt. Wyeth and Company. The loca- tion is pleasant, and the land around is of the flrst quality. Here some months ago a man named Thomburgh was killed by another named Hubbard, both from the United States. A controversy arose between them about an Indian woman. Thomburgh was determined to take her from Hubbard, even at the risk of his own life. He entered H's cabin in the night armed with a loaded rifle. H. saw him, and shot him through the breast, and pushed him out of the door. Thomburgh fell, and expired almost instantly. A self-created Jury of inquest sat upon the body of Thom- burgh, and brought in a verdict, that he lost his life by the hemd of Hubbard in self-defence. In Thombui^h there was an instance of a most insati- able appetite for ardent spirits. Mr. Townsend, the omi- thologist, whom I have before mentioned, told me he was encamped out for several days, some miles from Fort Wil- liam, attending to the business of his profession ; and that in addition to collecting birds, he had collected rare speci- mens of reptiles, which he preserved in a keg of spirits. Several days after he was in this encampment, he went to his keg to deposit another reptile, and found the spirits gone. Mr. Townsend knowing that Thomburgh had been several times loitering about, charged him with having drank off the spirits. He confessed it^ and pleaded his thirst as an apology. On Wednesday the 2nd, I retumed to Fort Vancouver Well pleased with my excursion. The weather was gene- rally pleasant, free from winds and heavy storms. There are no high mountains, nor hills which would not be cap- able of cultivation, and when this valley shall be filled with inhabitants, and farms spread out in high cultivation, it will be second to only a few parts of the world. 1 found the people of the fort in their usual active business-pursuits, and I received a renewed cordial welcome. 117 shoot It and restern lea to ^hment looa- fint rh was Tnited [Indian from entered CHAPTER XII Sabbath, 6th. I attended three servioes, morning, afternoon, and evening, and sxpeot to continue them during my residence in this place. Tiurough the week tiiere wm be but few opportunities to do much for the spiritual benefit of the common labourers ; for in this high Northern latitude, the dajs in the winter are so short that the men are called out to their work before day, and continue their labour until near dark ; and as their families do not understand English I have no direct means of benefiting them. As much of my time, through the week, was occupied in study, and in digesting &cts connected with the natural science of the country West of the Rocky Mountains, and character and condition of the Indians, which came under my observation at different times and places, and also that which I should obtain from persons whose testimony could be relied upon, and which came under their personal obser- vation, I shall give them without particular dates. I have already mentioned my agreeable disappointment, in finding so many of the comforts of life, at different trading posts of the Hudson Bay Company ; also I have given a brief description of the local situation of Fort Van- couver. These were taken from such observations as I could make in a hasty view, as I was prosecuting my jour- ney to the shores of the Pacific Ocean. This establishment was commenced in the year 1824. It being necessary that the Gentlemen, who are engaged in transacting the business of the company west of the mountains, and their labourers, should be better and less precariously supplied with the necessaries of life, than what game furnishes ; and the expense of transportii^ srutable supplies firom England being too great ; it was thought important to connect the business of farming with that of fur, to an extent equal to their necessary demands, and as this fort is the central place of business to which shipping come, and from which they depart for different parts of the north-west coast, and to which, and from which, brigades of hunting-parties come and go ; the principal farming business was estaUished ii II i- it 118 here, and has been progressing until provisions are furnished in great abundance. There are large fertile prairies, which they occupy for tillage and pasture, and forests for fencing materials and other purposes. In the year 1835, at this post, there were four hundred and fifty neut cattle, one hundred horses, two hundred sheep, forty goats, and three hundred hogs. They had raised the same year, five thou- sand bushels of wheat, of the best quality I ever saw ; one thousand three hundred bushels of potatoes ; one thou- gand of barley, one thousand of oats, two thousand of peas, and a large variety of garden vegetables. This estimate does not include the horses, homed cattle, &c. and produce raised at other stations. But little however, is done at any of the others, excepting Colville, the uppermost post on the Northern branch of the Columbia. The garden of this station enclosing about five acres, is laid out with regularity and good taste. While a large part is appropriated to the common esculent vegetables, ornamental plants and flowers are not neglected. Fruit of various kinds, such as apples, peaches, grapes, and strawberries, for the time they have been introduced, flourish and prove that the climate and soil are well adapted to the purposes of horticulture. Various tropical fruits such as figs, oranges, and lemons, have also been introduced, and grow with about the same care as they would require in the latitude of Philadelphia. In connexion with this business and farming establish- ment, the Company have a flour-mill worked by ox power, which is kept in constant operation and produces flour of excellent quality ; and a saw-mill with several saws, which is kept in operation most of the year. This mill, though large, does not with its several saws furnish more lumber than a common mill would, with one saw, in the United States. There being no pine below the Cascades, and but very Uttle within five hundred miles of the mouth of the Columbia river, the only timber sawed in this mill is fir and oak. Besides what lumber is used in the common business about this station, one, and sometimes two ship loads, are sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich islands, and is there called pine of the North-west coast. Boards of fir, are not so durable, when exposed to the weather, as those of pine, nor so easily worked. One half of the grain of each annual growth is very hard, and the other half soft and spungy, which easily absorbs moisture, and causes lished |s, which fencing at this ^le, one id three ^e thou- w; one e thou- ofpeas, [estimate produce eat any t on the of this 'gularitj d to the flowers apples, By have late and iculture. lemons, te same delphia. itablish- : power, flour of J, which though lumber United tnd but of the i is fir >mmon ship and is of fir, those ftin of If soft !auses 119 speedy decay. There is a bakery here, in which two or three men are in constant employment, which furnishes bread for daily use in the fort, and also a large supply of sea-biscuit for the shipping and trading stations along the North-west coast. There are also shops for blacksmiths, joiners and carpenters, and a turner. Here is a well-regulated medical department, and a hospital for the accommodation of the sick labourers, in which Indians who are labouring under any difficult and dangerous diseases are received, and in most cases have gratuitous attendance. Among the large buildings there are four for the trading department. One for the Indian trade, in which are deposited their peltries ; one for provisions ; one for goods, opened for the current year's business, that is, to sell to their men, and to send off to various fur stations ; and another for storing -goods in a year's advance. Not less than a ship load of goods is brought from England annu- ally, and always at least one in advance of their present use, so that if any disaster should befall their ship on her passage, the business of the Company would not have to be suspended. By this mode of management, there is rarely less than two ship-loads of goods on hand most of the time. The annual ship arrives in the spring, takes a trip to Oahu, during the summer, freighted with lumber to the island, and bringing back to Vancouver salt and other commodities, but generally not enough for ballast ; and in the last of September, or in October, she sails for England with the peltries obtained during the preceding year. The Fur-business about the Rocky Mountains and West, is becoming far less lucrative than in years past ; for so extensively and constantly have every nook and comer been searched out, that beaver and other valuable fur-ani- mals are becoming very scarce. It is rational to conclude, that it will not be many years before this business will not be worth pursuing in the prairie country. South of the 50° of North latitude ; North of this, in the colder and more densely wooded regions, the business will not probably vary in any important degree. But very few Americans who have engaged in the Fur- business beyond the Rocky Mountains have ever succeeded in making it profitable. Several Companies have sustained great loss, and generally owing to their ignorance of the m h«' n f m 120 countrj, and the best mode of procedure. The Hudson Ba/Companjhave reduced their business to such a system, that no one can have the charge of any important transac- tions without having passed through several grades of less important business, which constitutes several years' appren- ticeship. Their lowest order are what they call servants, (common labourers.) All above these are celled gentlemen, but of different orders. The lowest class are clerks ; then chief-clerks ; next traders, and chief-traders ; factors, and chief-factors ; and the highest, governors. Of the last office there are only two ; one resides in London, who is at the head of the whole business of the Company, and the other resides in Montreal, Upper Canada. There are only two chief-factors West of the mountains, John McLaugh- lin, Esq. and Duncan Finlayson, Esq. and with them are associated in business, several chief-traders and traders, and chief-clerks and clerl^. The salaries of the gentlemen are proportioned to the stations they occupy. This being their system of carrying on business, no important enterprise is ever intrusted to any inexperienced person. It is worthy of remark, that comparatively few of all those who engage in the Fur-business about, and West, of the Rocky Mountains, ever return to their native land, and to their homes and friends. Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla told me, that to keep up their number of trappers and hunt- ers near, but West of the mountains, they were under the necessity of sending out recruits annually, about one-third of the whole number. Capt. W. has said, that of more than two hundred who had been in his employment in the course of three years, only between thirty and forty were known to be alive. From these data it may be seen that the life of hunters in these far Western regions, averages about three years. And with these known facts, still hund- reds and hundreds are willing to engage in the hunter's life, and expose themselves to hardships, famine, dangers, and death. The estimation has been made from sources of correct information, that there are nine thousand White men in the North and in the great West, engaged in the various departments of trading, trapping, and himting. This number includes Americans, Britons, Frenchmen, and Russians, and it is more than one hundred and fifty years since Wldte men penetrated far into the forests, in their canoes freighted with goods, coaating the shores of the m remote lakes, and following op the ttill more remote rivers, to traffic with the Indians ^r tlidr Fnre, not regarding hun- ger, toils, and dangers. Tbeie enterprises have been extended and pursued with avidity until every Indian nation and tribe has been visited by the trader. What is the power of that principle which draws thou- sands from their country, and their homes, and all the ties of kindred ? Is the love of gain and the hope of w'ealth the motive by which courage and daring are roused, and dangers defied ? And shall Christiaidty be a less powerful principle ? Has it only furnished twentv or thirty mis- sionaries, whose sole motive is to carry tne gospel to the many ten thousand Indians in the wiae-extended country, over which are ranging ninethonsaiid traders, trappers, and hunters ? Are these the only evidences the church of God can give of sincerity in her professions of attachment to Christ, and to the interests oif the immortal soul ? But this want of Christian enterprise^ characterised by the late period in which it is begun, and carried forward with such slow and faultering steps, is not only to be lamented as a blot upon the Christian u^me ; but incomparably more is it to be lamented that in consequence, generation after gene- ration of the Heathen, to say nothing of the thousands who are trafficking among them^ are left in their ignorance of the Saviour, to perish eternally. How long shall it be, that when an adventurous man lorms a plan for traffic in far distant wilds, in a short time a company is formed with a capital of fifly thousand dollars, and a hundred men are found to face hardships and dangers, and they are away ? But when a Christian heart is stirred up to go and carry the gospel to some far distant Indian nation, he may plead and plead for four men and two thousand dollars, and perhaps plead in vain. But it is said a great deal is now doing for the heathen world. How much ? ^t much as to give Jive ministers to the United Statit, All that is doing for the conversion of the Heathen is not more than what it would cost to build, and man, and defray the expenses, of one ship of war. I have found the Indian population in the Lower country, that is, below the falls of the Columbia, far less than I had expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke made their tour. Since the year 1B29, probably seven-eighths if not, as Doct. McLaughlin believes^ nine-tenths, have been swept F rt i-> M *.?■! 122 away by disease, principally by fever and agae. The ma- lignancy of this disease may have been increased by predis- posing causes, such as intemperance, &c. &c. But a more direct cause of the great mortality was their mode of treat- ment. In the burning stage of the fever they plunged themselves into the river, and continued in the water until the heat was allayed, and rarely survived the cold stage which followed. So many and so sudden were the deaths which occurred, that the shores were strewed with the un- buried dead. Whole and large villages were depopulated ; and some entire tribes have disappeared, the few remaining persons, if there were any, uniting themselves with other tribes. This great morttdity extended not only from the yicinity of the Cascades to the shores of the Pacific, but far North and South ; it is said as far South as California. The fever and ague was never known before the year 1829, and Doct. Mc.Laughliu mentioned it as a singular circuidstAnce, that this was ^e year in which fields were ploughed for the first time. He thought there must have been some connec- tion between breaking up the soil and the fever. I informed him that the same fever prevailed in the United States, about the same time, and in places which had not before been subject to the complaint. The mortality after one or two seasons abated, partly for the want of subjects, and partly firom medical assistance obtained at the hospital of Fort Vancouver. The mortality of Indians and their suf- ferings under diseases are far greater than they would be, if they were furnished with a knowledge of medicine. Indian doctors are only Indian conjurers. December 25th. The holidays are not forgotten in these far distant regions. From Christmas until after New Years, all labour is suspended, and a general time of indul- gence and festivity conmiences. Only this once in the whole year are ardent spirits given to the labourers, when they have a free allowance, giving them the opportunity to exhibit fully what they would do, if spirits were easily and always accessible. On Christmas morning they dress them- selves in their best attire, accelerated movements are seen in every direction, and preparation is made for dinners, which are sure to be furnished in their first style, and great- est profusion ; and the day passes in mirth and hilarity. But it does not end with the day ; for the passions and ap- petites, pampered through the day, prepare the way for the 123 lught to be spent with dan<»ng, and the load and boisterous laugh, shouts and revelry, consume the hours designed for rest. Thej continue these high-strung convivialities until they pass the portals of the new year, when labour and toil teke their place. Such too often are the customs of those who profess to be wiser and better people. The expiring year vanishes, amidst the noise and revels of many, who profess by such methods to honour the birth of our Saviour, and the intro- duction of that only rel^on, which requires perfect purity and perfect order. And too many give as they profess, but a decent honor and respect to those festival days, when f^'om house to house of their best or more indifferent friends, the wine is circulated until they become genteelly inebriated. And is it so, that these days are baptized with the name of Iioly days 7 The piety of primitive Christians undoubtedly led them to observe the supposed anniversary of our Saviour's birth, but whenever such uuoommanded obser- vances are greatly abused, the same piety will exert itself to bring about a reformation. CHAPTER XIV. As it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain the character and condition of the Indians beyond the Rocky Mountains, their numbers, and prospects of establishing the gospel among them, it will not only be proper, but important to give a full and connected description of these particulars. In doing this, while I have availed myself of information collected from men of intelligence and integrity, yet I have confined my statements to those things which have been corroborated by, or came under, my own observations; feeling it a duty to avoid the many fabulous accounts which' have been given of Indian character and customs. Romance may please and excite admiration, fiction may charm, but only truth can instruct. % :;l 124 I shall first describe the Indians of the plains. These live in the upper country from the Falls of Columbia to the Rocky Mountains, and are called the Indians of the plains, because a large proportion of their country is prairie-^and. The principal tribes are the Nez Percys, Cayuses, Walla Wallas, Bonax, Shoshones, Spokeins, Flatheads, Cceor De Lions, Pouderas, Cootanies, Kettlefalls, Okanagans, and Carriers. These do not include probably more than one half of those East of the Falls, but of others I have obtained but little definite knowledge. These all resemble each other in general characteristics. In their persons the men are tall, the women are of common stature, and both men and women are well formed. While there is a strong natural as well as moral resemblance among all Indians, the complexion of these is much the same as other Indians, excepting a little fairer. Their hair and eyes are black, their cheek-bones high, and very frequently tjiey have aquiline noses. Their hands, feet, and ancles, are small and well formed; and their movements are easy, if not graceful. They wear their hair long, part it upon their forehead, and let it hang in tresses on each side, or down behind. There is a great resemblance in their dress, which gene- rally consists of a shirt, worn over long, close leggings, with moccasons for their feet. These are of dressed leather made of the skins of deer, antelope, and mountain goats and sheep ; and over these they wear a blanket or buffalo robe. The borders of their garments are ornamented with long fringes, after the manner of the ancient Jews. They are fond of ornaments, and according to their means, their heads and garments are decorated with feathers, beads, buttons, and porcupine-quills; the last of which are coloured red, yellow, blue, and black, and worked with great skill and variety of design. They appear to have less of the propensity to adorn themselves with painting, than the In- dians, East of the Mountains ; but still at their toilet, ver- million, mixed with red clay, is used not only upon their faces, but also upon their hair. The dress of the women does not vary much from the men, excepting, ♦Vjat instead of the shirt, they have what may be called a i^ock coming down to the ancles. Many of them wear a large cape made of the same material, and often highly ornamented with large oblong beads of blue, red, purple, and white, arranged in 125 ch gene- ngs, with i leather tin goats r buffalo ited with . They Qs, their , beads, coloured 'eat skill 9 of the I the In- let, ver- on their len does d of the ig down made of th large nged in onrved lines covering the whole. Some of the daughters of the Chiefs, when clothed in their clean, white dresses made of antelope skins, with their fully ornamented capes coming down to the waist, and mounted upon spirited steeds, going at full speed, their ornaments glittering in the sun-beams, make an appearance that woidd not lose in comparison with equestrian ladies of the East. While a want of cleanliness is a characteristic of all Heathen, the Indians of the plains are less reprehensible than others, and far more neat than those of the lower country toward the Pacific. It is not to be understood that there are not those who are poor, suffering from the want of food and clothing. Their wealth consists in their horses, and, in a great degree, their consequence upon the number they possess ; some owning several hundreds ; and that family is poor whose numbers are not sufficient for every man, woman, and child to be mounted, when they are travelling from place to place ; and also to carry all their effects. In these respects they are fistr better supplied than any tribes I saw East of the mountains. While their horses are their wealth, they derive but little from them for the support of themselves and families ; for they do not employ them to cultivate the earth ; and the market for them is so low, that they com- mand but a small price. A good horse will not sell for more than enough to purchase a blanket, or a few small articles of merchandize. For subsistence, they, of neces- sity, depend upon hunting and fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their mode of cooking is plain and simple. Most of their food is roasted, and they excel in roasting fish. The process is to build in the centre of their lodge a small fire, to fix the fish i pon a stick two feet long, and to place one end in the ground so as to bring the fish partly over the fire, and then by a slow process it is most thoroughly roasted without any scorching, or scarcely changing the colour. The principal art consists in taking time, and our best cooks might improve by following their mode. Their habits. The habits of Indians are said to be indo- lent. As a general remark it may be true, but I saw but very little to confirm its truth among the Indians of the plains ; for I rarely saw any of these Indians without their being engaged in some object of pursuit; not the most 126 productive, perhaps, but such as enlisted their attention. While I believe in the striking resemblance, both physical and moral, of all the different nations and tribes of Indians spread over large portions of the continent of America, more so than is seen in any people of any other country of equal extent, yet if it is true, that as a general fact, they are morose and gloomy in their countenances: sullen, or bachanalian in their dispositions ; that they are rarely so joyful as to laugh, unless excited by ardent spirits ; that they are taciturn and never indulge in mirth ; that they are obtuse in sympathy, and destitute of social affections ; that in proud discUdn they turn away from whatever would excite curiosity ; that no common motives or endearments excite them to action ; if these things are true, then the Indians in the Oregon Territory are an exception to the general fact. In all the above-named particulars^ I saw no special difference between them and other natibns. As a part of the human family, they have the same natural pro- pensities and the same social affections. They are cheerful and often gay, sociable, kind, and affectionate ; and anx- ious to receive instruction in whatever may conduce to their happiness here or hereafter. It is worse than idle to speak of " physical insensibility inwrought into the animal nature of the Indians, so that their bodies approximate to the in- sensibility of horses' hoo&." The influence of these kind of remarks is to produce, in the bosoms of all who read them, the same insensibility which is charged upon the native character of the Indians. To represent their charac- ters and their restoration to the common feelings of huma- nity so hopeless, is to steel the heart of even Christianity itself, if it were pos^ble, against all sympathy, and to paralize all exertions and efforts to save them from the two-fold destruction to which they doom them, temporal and eternal. Is this the reason that Christians are sitting in such supineness over their condition, and the heart- thrilling appeals from them for Teachers to enlighten them? Is this the reason, that while the philanthropy of the United States' Citizens towards them is so widely blazoned, that those, who are sent to teach them the arts of civilized life, are sitting quiet on the borders in governmental pay, while the Indians are roaming still over the prairies in search of uncertain and precarious game ? A 127 They have bnt few maniifactiires, and those few are the moet plain and rimple, not extending much beyond dressing the skins of animals, and making them into clof g: making bows and arrows, and some few articles of furniture. In dressing their skins they never make use of any bark, or tanning in any way. Their process is; to remove the hair and flesh from the skins, by scraping them with a hard stone or wood, or when it can be obtained, a piece of iron hoop, and then besmearing them with the brains of some animal, they smoke them thoroughly and rub them until they are sofl; and after this bleach them with pure white clay. Their mode of smoking, is to dig or excavate a small place in the ground, about a foot deep, and over this to construct a small fixture in the form of a lodge a few feet wide at the base, and brought to a point at the top. Then they build a small fire in the centre, and place the skins around upon the frame work, so as to make the enclosure almost smoke tight. The process occupies about one day. Their mode of dressing buffalo robes is different. It is by stretching the skin upon the ground, flesh-side up, fastening it down with pina around the border. Then with an instrument, formed somewhat like a cooper's adze, made of stone, or wood overlaid with a piece of iron, brought to a blunt edge like the currier's knife, they clear from it all remaining flesh, and let it thoroughly dry. After this, with the same in- strument, they work upon it with a pounding, hewing stroke, until they have brought it to a suitable thickness, and ren- dered it soft and white, in the same condition as our bufialo robes are, when brought into market. It is a work of great labour performed by the women. We little think how much toil it costs a woman to prepare one of these robes, And then how little is paid for it by the purchaser ; a pound of tobacco or a bunch of beads,is as much as the Indian gen- erally receives. Their bows are made of the most elasdc wood, strength- ened with the tendons of animals, glued upon the back, and a string made of the same substance. Their arrows are made of heavy wood, with one end tipped with a sharp stone or pointed iron, and the other end pinnated with a feather. While the first is to pierce, the latter is to govern the direction. Their bows and arrows perform astonish- ing execution, and they manage them with great dexterity. ..II ■lii H \ 138 Most of their cooking utenailsi which they now use, are obtained from Traden. These do not often extend beyond a brass kettle, tin pail, and a very few knives. They have bowls which thoy manufacture very ingeniously from the horns of buffalo ; and sometimes, those that are larger and more solids from the horns of the big horn mountain sheep. They have spoons of very good structure, made of buffalo horns ; also they have various kinds of baskets of rude workmanship, liieir saddles are rude, somewhat resembling the Spanish saddle, having a high knob forward, and rising high on the back part ; generaily sitting uneasy upon the horse's back. Their bridles are only a rope well made of hair, or the chag of the buffalo, fastened to the under jaw of the horse, very long, so as to form the lasso ; this is so coiled in the hand as to form a noose when thrown o^^er the horse's head, which is done very dexterously ; and v^hen they are mounted, the rope, or leather thong which is ofte^ used iu its place, trails along the ground. This U often left upon the horse's neck, when he is turned out for a short time to feed, for the convenience of more easily catching him. Their canoes, before they obtained iron hatchets of the Traders, were, with great labour and patience, made with hatchets of stone ; and even now, it is with no small effort. A canoe of good construction is valued as high as one or two good horses. Their fishiiig nets are another article which is well constructed, formed of wild flax ; and in every particular like our scoop nets. As regards the religion of the Indians, they believe in one Ood, in the immortality of the soul, and in future rewards and punishments. But while these are the prominent points of their belief, their definite ideas of a religious nature appear to be extremely limited, both in number and in comprehen- siveness. As much as this, however, appears to be true. They believe in one great Spirit, who has created all things, governs all important events, and who is the author of all good; and who is the only object of religious homage. They believe he may be displeased with them for their bad conduct, and in his displeasure bring calamities upon them. They also believe in an evil spirit, whom they call cinim keneki meohot oin mo'cimo : that is, the black chief below, who is the author of all evils which befall them, undeserved as a punishment from the Great Spirit above. They belieVe in the immortality of the soul, that it enters the future 129 luse, are bejond \ey have om the 'get and |u sheep, buffalo of rude embliug \d rising ipon the lade of srjawof 30 coiled > horse's they are used ill eft upon time to im. s of the ide with lU effort. J one or ' article in every ein one rewards t points > appear prehen- )e true, things, • of all omage. )r their s upon 3J' call below, served belieVe future world with a similar form, and in like cironmstanoes to ihofle under which it existed in this life. They believe that in a future state, the happiness of the good consists in an abun- dance and enjoyment of those things which they value here, that their present sources of happiness will be carried to per- fection ; and that the punishment of the bad will consist in entire exclusion from every source of happiness, and in finding all causes of misery here, greatly multiplied hereaf- ter. Thus their ideas of future happiness are found to vary according to their different situations and employments in life. It is difficult, if not impossible, to ascertain any thing of their religious belief beyond these general notions. The number of words and terms in their language expressive of abstract and spiritual ideas is very small, so that those who wish to instruct them in these subjects, are compelled to do it by means of illustrations and circumlocutions, and the introduction of words from foreign languages. Besides, conscious of their ignorance, they are, for the most part, unwilling to expose it, by revealing the little knowledge which they possess. Indeed, wherever a feeling of ignorance upon any subject prevails, we find that all endeavours to elicit the true amount of knowledge, are repelled or evaded. Even men of talents and education, who converse fluently upon most subjects, are often silent when religious topics are introduced. I am far from believing the many long and strange tradi- tions with which we are often entertained. It is more than probable, that they are in most instances the gratuitous offer- ings of designing and artful Traders and Hunters to that curiosity, which is ever awake and attentive to subjects of this description. The Indians themselves would often be as much surprised at the rehearsal of these traditions, as those are, for whose amusement they are fabricated. My own opinion is confirmed by that of several gentlemen of integrity and veracity, who stand at the head of the Hudson-Bay Company, who have long been resident in the Indian country, and who have become extensively acquain- ted with their languages. The Indians, West of the great chain of mountains, have no wars among themselves, and appear to be averse to all war, and do not enter into battle except in self-defence, and then only in the last extremity. Their only wars are with the Blackfeet Indians, whose country is along the east bor- f2 \'\ r ■]' * 180 der of the Rookj Mountains, and who are conitantly roving about in war-parties, on both sides of the mountains, in quest of plunder. When the Indians on the West meet with ttaj of these war-parties, they avoid an encounter if possible, but if they are compelled to fight, they show a firm, undaunted, unconquerable spirit, and rush upon their ene- mies with the greatest impetuosity ; and it is said that one Nez Pero6 or Flathead warrior, is a match for three Black- feet. The only advantage wldch the latter have over the former, consists in their numbers, there being more than twenty thousand of the Blackfeet Indians. When an enemy is discovered, every horse is driven into camp, and the women take chaige of them, while every man seizes his weapons of war, whatever they may be, mounts Lis horse, and waits firm and undismayed to see if hostilities must ensue. If a battle cannot be avoided, then they rush for- ward to meet their foes, throwing themselves flat upon their horses as they draw near, and fire, and wheel, and re-load, and again rush full speed to the second encounter. Tins is continued until victory is decided, which is as often by the failure of ammunition, as by the loss of men. Very fire- quently, when the Blackfeet see white men with the Nez Purees or Flatheads, they decline a battle, though they thenuselves may be far superior in numbers, knowing that the white men can furnish a large supply of ammunition ; and in such cases they will raise a flag, and come in to smoke the pipe of peace. The Nez Perc^ or Flathead Chief, on such an occasion will say, "we accept your offer to smoke the pipe of peace, but it is not in ignorance, that your heart is war, and your hand blood, but we love peace. Vou give us the pipe but blood always follows." But these Indians are not without their vices. Gambling is one of the most prominent, and Is a ruling passion which they will gratify to the last extremity. It is much prac- tised in running horses, and foot races, by men women and children ; they have some games of chance played with sticks or bones. When I told the Nez Percys that gambling is wrong, that it is a violation of the tenth commandment ;■ for it is coveting the property of another, and taking it without compensation, as much so as stealing ; they said they did not know it before, but now they know God forbids it, they will do so no more. Most of the tribes of the plains are remarkably free from the crime of stealing, and it is 131 enemy land the iizes his is horse, es must ush for- K)n their re-load, This is 1 hy the ery jre- the Nea igh they ing that imition ; le in to ^d Chief, oflFer to ce, that B peace. tmhling I which i prac- len and d with mbling Iment ;• dng it 7 said forbids plains lit is scarcely known except among the Shoshones nation, where it is practised to a considerable degree, but less so than in former times. Drunkenness is a stranger vice among these Indians, but what they would do, if ardent spirits were in- troduced among them, is not known, and it is most devoutly to be desired that it may not be known. It is only the expense ot transportation that keeps back its introduction. A man from the United States attempted to construct a dis- tillery upom the Willamette river, but for the want of suitable materials failed in his object. The moral disposition of these Indians is very commen- dable, certainly as much so as any people that can be named. They are kind to strangers, and remarkably so to each other. While among them I saw no contentions, nor did I hear any angry words from one to another. They manifest an uncommon desire to be instructed that they may obey and fulfil all moral obligations. Harmony and peace prevail in all their domestic concerns. But in case they have any difficult subject, which they do not know how to dispose of, they go to their Chiefs, and if it involves any important principle, the Chiefs bring the case to any white man, who may be among them, to obtain his opinion, which is generally followed. They are scrupulously honest in all their dealings, and lying is scarcely known.* They say they fear to sin against the Oreat Spirit, and therefore they have but one heart, and their tongue is straight and not forked. I have not witnessed many things characteristic of their being very superstitious. When a person dies, all the relations must be assembled, to do which oflen occupies many days ; and if a huftband is deceased, the wife must sleep with her dead husband to show her affection for him ; and when the body is laid upon the funeral pile, she must, during the burning, frequently put her hands upon his bosom. Their first Chief lost his wife. He was asked if he would show the affection for her, which was required of others. He thought on account of his station he might be excused. The people were urgent and he consented, and on account of the pain he endured, he was willing the prac- * Let those that call themselves Christiaiui consider this example of poor Heathens. \^ II 132 tice should be ameliorated, and it ia hoped it will soon be abolished. They have no unlucky days, but as a substitute for the White man's Friday, they have a portentous howling of a large wolf, which they call the medicine wolf. If they hear this when travelling, a sadness is at once visible in their countenances, as foreboding some calamity near. Among their superstitions may be cliAssed their mode of curing diseases. They have what are called medicine men, who make no pretensions to any knowledge of diseases, or skill in medicine ; but they have a bag in which is deposi- ted various relics not to be administered to their patients, but to operate as a charm. The patient is stretched upon the ground ; a number of persons encircle around, and sing the medicine song. The medicine man enters the circle and commences his magical incantations ; uses much gesi^ure and inarticulate sounds ; he pats or kneads the patient with his hands, beginnmg very sofUy, and gradually increasing to a considerable degree of severity : blows into the patient's ears, and practices other like ceremonies. By the process employed, the patient is often much fatigued, and thrown into a free perspiration, and his imagination is much exci- ted. When the friction has been sufficiently employed, the imagination well wrought upon, and the medicine bag has invisibly imparted its virtues, the medicine man presents some tnfling article, such as a small bone, a stick, or peb- ble, and says he has taken it from the body of the patient, and it was the cause of the disease ; or he gives a heavy puff upward, and says the disease has come out of the patient, and gone upward, and then asks him if he does not feel bet- ter. The patient says yes ; for he certainly feels better in being relieved from the process. And often the effect is permanent ; for the friction may have been beneficial, and the imagination often peforms wonders. The medicine man stands responsible for the life of his patient, and if his patient dies, not unfrequently his own life is taken by some of the rela- tives of the deceased. He makes a heavy charge for his services, often a horse, and why should he not ? for who in such cases would endanger his life without being well paid ? In some parts of the country, but more especially in the Lower country, the lives of medicine men are short, and it . would be supposed this would deter others from entering into the profession. But the love of fame and wealth is power- 133 30on be for the 'ling of If thej [sible in lar. lode of [ne men, iases, or deposi- ►atients, id upon md sing e circle gesture entwith creasing >atient'8 process thrown h exci- ved, the l>ag has >re8ents or peb- patient, heavy patient, ;el bet- Btter in Sect is il, and le man latieut e rela- Ibr his irho in paid ? n the and it a^into 3wer- ful among Heathen as well as among civilized commmiities, where there are those who will sell their souls, as well as their bodies, to gratify their sinfal propensities. Undoubtedly the medicine men, when they begin their profession, know that they are practising deception, but by continuance in prac- tice, by the confidence others place in their skill, and by the effects produced through the medium of the imagination, they believe in the efficacy of their enchantments, and that they themselves are consequential men. I have seen no " root doctors" in any tribe East or West of the mountains. The Indians, so far as I have had an opportunity of ascertaining, have but few diseases, and for the cure of these, they use but little medicine ; nor do they profess to have scarcely any knowledge of remedies beyond a few specifics. They have a practice of producing perspiration, the ob- ject of which is to invigorate their constitutions, and as a luxury is practised very extensively. They construct a steam bath in the form of an oblong oven, two or three feet high, about six feet long, made of willows, each end inserted into the ground, forming an arch, which is covered with grass and mud, or more generally with skins. In this they place a number of hot stones, upon which they pour water. The person, who is to go through the process, enters and is enclosed nearly air tight, and remains until a very pro- fuse perspiration is produced, and until nearly suffocated. He then comes out and plunges at once into cold water. No regard is paid to the season of the year, whether sum- mer or winter. They are wholly destitute of the means of obtaining an education, and therefore are ignorant of all the sciences. In things with which they are conversant, such as appertain to hunting, war, and their limited domestic concerns they manifest observation, skill and intellect ; but beyond these, their knowledge is very limited. They necessarily compute by numbers, but their arithmetic is entirely mental. It is an interesting fact, that of four different languages, which I examined, the mode of counting is by tens. The Klicatat nation count with different words up to ten. Lah'sy one ; neep'ty two ; and so to ten ; then they add wappena to hh'a ; as lah's wappena, eleven ; neept wappena, twelve ; neep't tit, twenty ; and in like manner to one hundred, and so on to a thousand by hundreds. In the Nez Perce language. >i!" % 134 mox is one, hpe^ two, metaii three, &o. After ten they re- peat the radical numbers with the addition Ht as nox titf eleven ; hap iUf twenty, metap tit, thirty. This may be a sufficient specimen for the four languages, as the other two proceed in the same manner. They count their years by snows ; as, nuUka elaix, snows six, that is six years ; and months by moons, and days by sleeps ; pinemeek pe-e-kp, sleeps four, (four days.) It is not common that they know their exact age; nor, generally spealdng, are they very accurate in chronology. They are very fond of singing, and generally have flexi- ble and sweet-toned voices. Most of their singing is with- out words, excepting upon some special occasions. They use hi ah in constant repetition, as we use fa, sol, la ; and instead of several different parts harmonizing, they only take eighths, one above another, never exceeding three. They are conscious of the inferiority of their tunes to ours, and wished to be instructed in this department of knowledge. In this land of moral desolations, it was cheering to hear the sounds of melody and harmony, even in the most simple strains. CHAPTER XV. The Indians of the lower country are those between the shores of the Pacific and the Falls of the Columbia river, and from Pugets Sound to Upper C&lifomia. The principal nations are the Chenooks, the Klicatats, the Callapooahs and the Umbaqu&s. These nations are divided into a great number of tribes, which have their respective Chiefs, and yet each nation has its principal Chief, who is head over all the several tribes, and has a general superintending control. These Indians appear to ha'"? less sensibility, both physi- cal and moral, than those of > Upper country. Their de- pendence for subsistence bein^ nostly confined to fishing and fowling, they are not so well supplied with clothing as the Upper Indians, who hunt the buffalo, the elk, the ante- lope, and other game. The lower Indians obtain some game, and clothing from the lower posts of the Hudson-Bay m hey re- nox tit, ay be a er two } snows ays by t is not »nerally e flexi- is with- They a; and y only three. to ours, wledge. to hear simple Jen the - river, incipal pooahs a great s, and 'ver all ontrol. physi- jir de- ishing ng as ante- some i-Bay Company. I have often Men theie going about, half naked, when the thermometer ranged between thirty and forty degrees; and their children barefboted and barelegged in the snow ; and yet when expoeed to fatigne, they cannot endure the cold half so weU a# civilized people. I have no- ticed this, when I have had them employed in conveying me any considerable distance in a canoe. Their taste and smelling are obtuse, rendered lo by their filthy habits and contaminated food. But th^ hearing and sight are un- commonly good ; rendered iO^ undoubtedly, by their habits of looking closely to see their game, and listening attentively to catch the least sound. Tbete Indians being, from their mode of subsistence, more stationary than those of the plains, have more durable and comfortable habitations, which are built of split plank, after the manner which I have described Wanaxka's, near the falls of the Willamette. Some of them, however, induke the fancv of making their doors like the face of a man, tne mouth being the place of entrance. The Lower Indians do not drees as well, nor with as good taste as the Upper. These In^ns are as degraded as those on our frontiers, and from the tame causes. By their inter- course with those who furnish them with the means of intoxication, and who have introduced kindred vices, they have become indolent and extremely filthy in their habits, and more debased than the beasts of the earth. What has brought man, unreclaimed hy the gospel, into this degraded state ? Not the want of rational powers, but their abuse by sin ; and nothing but Christiamty, by which he may be brought back to God, can ever bring him into the coniforts and decencies of life. Tell us no more about the happiness of the untaught children of nature ; poor, ndserable, degraded, sinful nature, alienated from the life of godliness ; and alienated from the decencies of life. Let infidels and novelists scatter their eulogies of the untutored children of nature to the wind, but do not let them be found near the habitations of ignorance, pollution, and misery. The want of moral instruction, the in- fluence of bad examples, and unrestrained licentiousness, have brought the lower Indians into a state of wretchedness which will be entailed upon future generations, and which nothing but the healing power of the gospel can ever eradi- cate. There are some exceptions to these remarks, but not I- 136 enough to exert a redeeming power to save these remnants of once populous nations, if benevolenoe and humanity do not soon break their slumbers. It is to be hoped the metho- dist missionaries, now in the field, under God, will interpose a barrier to these sweeping desolations. In their religious belief, they do not materially differ from the upper Indians. While they believe in one great spirit, they in addition believe in subordinate spirits, or invisible agencies, to whom they ascribe much the same power as has been ascribed to witchcraft. We had a specimen of this, when the May Dacre was passing down the river in October. On the north side of the Columbia, near the con- fluence of the Cowlitz there were some dark recesses in the basaltic rocks. An Indian Chief on board warned Capt. L. not to approach those dark places ; for they were the resi- dence of bad spirits who would destroy the ship and all on board. Capt. L. purposely passed near the place ; and the Indian was astonished that we escaped unhurt, and con- cluded there must have been some great " medicine" in the ship, which defended us. They believe in the immortality of the soul, and that in the future state we shall have the same wants as in this life. Under the influence of this be- lief, the wife of Calpo, a very influential chief of the Che- nook village near cape Disappointment, on losing a daugh- ter, in the year 1829, killed two female slaves to attend her to the world of spirits, and for the particular purpose of rowing her canoe to the far off happy regions of the south, where in their imagination they locate their elysium. She deposited her daughter, with the two slain females by her side, in a canoe, with articles of clothing and domestic im- plements. She was the daughter of Concomly, and a wo- man of more than common talents and respectability, a firm friend of White men, and more than once saved them from slaughter. How dark was the mind of this talented woman, and how diflferently would she have acted under the influence of divine revelation ! These Indians never mention the name of their relatives after they are dead. It is only in the lower country of the Oregon Territory, and along the coast, that slavery exists. It was formerly practised in the Upper country, but was long since abolished. The Walla Walla tribe are descended from slaves formerly owned and liberated by the Nez Perc^ Indians, and are now a respectable tribe. 137 OambliDg is also practised among the lower Indians, and carried to perfection. After they have lost every thing they possess, they will put themselves at stake ; first a hand, and if unsuccessful, the other ; after this an arm, and in the same manner, piece by piece, until all is lost except the head, and ut last their head, and if they lose this, they go into perpetual slavery. If civilized men mil gamble, it is desirable they should carry the game to the same perfection ; for then they would cease to be a pest to society, and however different may be our sentiments upon the subject of slavery, in this we should generally be agreed, that such gamblers would not deserve commiseration. The Indians, however, do not set their souls at the hazard of the game, as civilized gamblers do, when they imprecate the eternal vengeance of God upon their souls if they are not successful. The Indian gambles away his inalienable rights for time only. It is a universal practise to indulge in smoking. When they saturate their bodies with smoke, they do it in a dignified manner. They use but little tobacco, and with it they mix freely a plant which renders the iiime less offensive. It is a social luxury, for the enjoyment of which, they form a circle, and only one pipe is used The principal chief begins by drawing three whiffs, the first of which he sends upward, and then passes the pipe to the next person in dignity, and in like manner it passes around imtil it comes to the first chief again. He then draws four whiffs, the last of which he blows through his nose in two columns, in circling ascent, like a double-fiued chimney. While thus employed, some topic of business is discussed, or some exploit in the chase, or some story of the battle-field, is related ; and the whole is conducted with gravity. ITieir pipes are variously constructed, and of different materials. Some of them are wrought with much labour and ingenuity of an argillaceous stone, of very fine texture, found at the north of Queen Charlotte's island, of a blue black colour ; and which is of the same kind of stone as that found upon the head waters of the Missouri, except in colour, the latter of which is brick red. These stones when first taken out of the quarries, are soft and are easily worked with a knife, but on being exposed to the air they become hard, and take a very good polish. The Indians in the Lower country are more indolent than in the Upper ; and the common motives for industry operate 138 reversely from those in civilized communities. The more they can get for their labour, the less they will do ; the more they can get for an article in sale, the less they will bring into market. Their wants are but few, and when these are supplied they will do no more. They have no disposition to hoard up treasures, nor ai.y enlarged plans to execute, requiring expense and labour. If they have any particular present want to supply, they will do only what is sufficient to satisfy it, and make no farther e£fort until urged by a re- turning necessity. To make them industrious and provident, you must induce them to set a higher estimate upon the comforts of life, and show them that they are attainable, and that there is an increase of happiness growing out of indus- try; and they must be taught by experience. Abstract reasoning and theories are of no avail with the Vidians. They must be taught experimentally, at their own houses, and upon their own lands. An Indian may be taken abroad and instructed, and convinced of the advantages of civiliza^ tion above heathenism, and if sent back to his country alone, he will become discouraged, and return to his former habits. Experimental farmers and missionailes must go among them, and make it the business of their lives to do them good, and identify their own interests with theirs. Charging indolence, and insensibility, and cruelty upon them will never make them wiser or better. He is the true philan- thropist, who, instead of passing by on the other side, goes to them, and does all in his power to raise them from thor degradation, and bring them to God and to heaven. The Indians of the Lower country, although less anxious to be instructed in the things of religion, than in the Upper country, yet express a readiness to receive instructors. I have not found among them, nor among any Indians beyond the influence of frontier settlements, any thing like what has been stated to have taken place in other sections of our country, and in other times : that they will listen to state- ments made by missionaries, and give their assent to what is said as very good ; and then state their own theories of religion, expecting the same courteous assent in return. Neither have I seen any disposition manifested, to say the Christian religion is very good for White men, but as Red men differ, they need a different religion and mode of life. Tliey have not yet be^i instigated by infidels to say such 139 >e more the more will bring these are lisposition ' execute, particular sufficient b/ a re- [provident, upon the table, and of indus- Abstract Indians, u houses, Bu abroad f civiliza- itrj alone, ler habits. among do them Charging them will e philan- ther side, »ise them 1 and to I anxious le Upper tJtors. I i beyond ke what 8 of our to state- to what ones of return, say the as Red of Ufe. •y su3h things. They are conscious of their ignorance of God and salvation, and of the various arts and sciences. While an indifference and apathy characterize some, which is dis- courag^g, yet there has been nothing manifested which is forbidding. While gratitude is a general characteristic of Indians, yet they have in some cases their peculiar way of expressing it. An Indian had a son labouring for a long time under a languishing and dangerous complaint. Their medicine men had done all they could for him, but without success. The father brought his son to the hospital at Fort Vancouver, and earnestly desired to have him treated with care, and with the best medical attendance. The sick son was re- ceived, and in about six months was restored to good health. When his father came to take him home, he remarked to Doct. M*L. " my son is a good boy, he has been with you a long time, and I think you must love him ; and now as he is about to leave you, will you not give him a blanket and shirt, and as many other small things as you think will be good ? We shall always love you." The lower Indians make their medicine, in some particu- lars, differently from those farther East. Their professed object is to obtain present relief, if not a radical cure ; to assuage the sorrow of the relatives if the patient dies, and that he may die more easily, and his soul may be rendered more capable of performing its journey to its far distant and happy country. The process is simple, and occupies five or six hours. The patient is laid upon a bed of mats and blankets, sometimes a little elevated and surrounded by a frame work. Two " medicine men" place themselves upon this frame, and commence a chant in a low, long-drawn voice, each holding a wand in his hand, three or four feet long, with which they beat upon the frame, keeping time with their tune. They gradually increase the loudness and the movement of their medicine song, with a correspondent rse of their wand, until the noise becomes almost deafening, and undoubtedly often hurries the patient out of the world. During this time the near relations appear to be perfectly indifferent to the condition of the sick person, lest their anxiety should affect the influence of the charm, and they are generally employed about their common business, such as the women making mats, baskets, and moccasons ; and the men are lolling about, smoking, or conversing upon com- w ■■ 1 \ if .1 140 mon subjects. In some cases, especially, if their confidence in the medicine man is small, they manifest much affliction and concern ; and in all cases after the person dins, they make great lamentation. 1 have already mentioned the practice of the lower Indians of flattening their heads and piercing their noses. But another reported custom of having pieces of sea-horse's tusks, or oval pieces of wood an inch and a half long, and an inch wide, inserted into a hole in their under lip, made for the purpose, is not correct in regard to any of the Indians in this section of country. Captain Beechy mentions this as a common practice from Norton's Island, and northward; which was noticed by Deshnow as long ago as 1648, worn by men, and by women about Prince WilUam's Sound, and which custom. Captain B. says, is common the whole distance along the western shores of America, as far as to California. I saw some specimens of this ornament, or rather deformity, which were worn by the Indians at Milbank Sound. They are quite destitute of horses, and their almost only mode of travelling is in canoes ; for the forests are so dense that they are nearly impenetrable, and they do not construct any roads. As the Upper Indians excel in horsemanship, so these excel in the management of their canoes. These are uncommonly well made, and of various sizes, from twelve to thirty feet long ; the largest will carry as much as a good bateau. They are generally made of the fir tree. Their bow and stem are raised high, so as to meet and ward off the boisterous waves, and the bow is sometimes decora- ted with the figures of animals. Slaves are employed in propelling the canoes, but not exclusively ; for often the Chiefs will perform their part of the labour, and the women are equally expert with the men. Their manufactures do not widely differ from those of the Upper country, only with the addition of hats and baskets of uncommonly good workmanship, made of grass of supe- rior quality, equal to the Leghorn. The native hats are a flaring cone. Their baskets are worked so closely as to hold water, and are used for pails. Some of them are interwoven with various colours and devices, representing fancifully, men, horses and flowers. The government of the Indian nations is in the hands of Chiefs, whose office is hereditary, or obtained by some idence in mon and fy make Indians Is. But .-horse's b and an ade for idians in ;his as a thward ; a IH4S, i Sound, le whole *ar as to aent, or Milbank Mt only 30 dense onstruct aanship, These s, from nuch as fir tree, ndward decora- Jjed in iten the women lose of baskets ^ supe- 3 are a o hold woven jifiilly, lids of some 141 special merit. Their only power is influence ; and this is in proportion to their wisdom, benevolence, and courage. They do not exercise authority by command, but use their influ- ence by persuasion, stating what in their judgment they believe to be right and for the greatest good of their tribe or nation, or of any family or community. The Chiefs have no power of levying taxes, and they are so much in the habit of contributing their own property for individual or public good, that they are not generally wealthy. Their influence, however, is great; for they rarely express an opinion or desire, which is not readily assented to and followed. Any unreasonable dissent is subdued by the common voice of the people. Probably there is no government upon earth where there is so much personal and political freedom, and at the same time so little anarchy ; and I can unhesitatingly say, that I have no where witnessed so much surbordination, peace, and friendship as among the Indians in the Oregon Territory. The day may be rued, when their order and harmony shall be interrupted by any instrumentality what- ever. There are exceptions, however, to the general fact of the good conduct of the Chiefs, and the respect which is given them. Cazenove, the first Chief of the Chenook nation, is one. He was a great warrior, and before the desolating sickness, which commenced in the year 1829, he could bring a thousand warriors into action. He is a man of talents, and his personal appearance is noble, and ought to repre- sent a nature kind and generous ; but such is his character, that his influence is retained among his people more by fear than by aflection. I saw him often, and several times at my room, while at Fort Vancouver. On Tuesday, February 2nd, I attended the funeral of his only son, and heir to his chieftainship, a young mpn, who had lingered under a pro- tracted disease. Cazenove departed from the long established custom of his nation and fathers, of depositing their dead in canoes, and had him buried in the cemetry of the Fort, in the decent manner of civilized people. He had the coflin made large, for the purpose of putting into it clothing, blankets, and such other articles, as he supposed necessary for his comfort in the world to which he was gone. Every thing connected with the ceremony of his interment was conducted with great propriety. I was not at the time furnished with an interpreter, but addressed those present who understood .'•™ W 'ft: "0 'i 1 1 it 142 English. Cttzenove exproMsed his satiaftuction that au address was given, considering it an expression of respect for his son; and he appeared solemn in his affliction, indulging tears only, and not any lond lamentations. Had he conducted with ec^ual propriety Bubse(|uently he would have been worthy oi commendation. But he did not, for when he retuTiied to his dwelling that evening, he attempted to kill the mother of this deceased son, and who was the daughter of Concomly. The Chiefs say, that they and their sons are too great to die of themselves, and although they may be sick, and decline, and die as others do, yet somebody, or some evil spirit instigated by somebody, is the invisible caose of their death ; and therefore when a Chief or Chiefs son dies, tl-e supposed author of the deed must be^ killed. Cazenove, on this occasion, fixed on the mother of this son as the victim of his rnge, notwithstanding she had been most assiduous in her attention to him, during his protracted sick- ness. His misguided mind led him to believe that the greater the sacrifice,!the greater the manifestation of his attachment to his son, and the more propitiatory to his departed spirit. She fled into the woods ana the next morning, when the gates were opened, she came into this fort and implored protection. 8ho was secreted here several days, until her friends at Chenook Bay heard of her situation, and came and secretly took her away. Some days after this, a woman was found killed by the hand of violence, and it was supposed it was done by Cazenove or by some one in his employ. CHAPTER XVI. A VERY intelligent and influential Indian from the Cascades called at my room, on the 8th of February, to inquire about God. l endeavoured to obtain from him his own system of religion. He said, he believed there is a God, and he supposed he made all things, but did not know any thing more about him. I questioned hhn in regard to his belief of a future state, and what he expected would become of him when he died. He said he di^.d not know. He supposed that he should have an existence after that an respect [Affliction, s. Had e would not, for attempted wag the laud their iugh they tmebodj^, invisible )r Chiefs >e^ killed, us son as een most Jted sick- le greater hment to ed spirit, ^hen the implored until her Jame and man was jposed it loy. )m the larj, to m him here is lid not him in :pected iJd not ;e after 143 death, but did not know of what sort it would be ; and wished I would tell him. I endeavoured to enlighten his mind, and to unfold to him the great fundamental truths of God and eternity, and the way to be saved. He listened with attention, and appeared sober. He told me the Indians were growing better ; that they did not kill each other in wars as in times past ; that they did not rob and steal as heretofore. I told him that was good, but to be saved, they must repent and receive the Saviour by faith, as the only one who could save sinners. So benighted are the minds of these Heathen, and so barren their language upon spirit- ual and invisible subjects, that I had to use such illustrations, as I judged the best adapted to convey to his mind divine truth, and I do not doubt, but that he received some divine knowledge. The next day he called again, and wished me to take his children and teach them how to read and write, and how to worship God. I endeavoured to explain to him the object of my tour, and that when I returned, I would use my influence to have others come and live among them. But he wanted to have me continue with them and instruct them. An' when I told him I must go, and endeavour to get several to come and teach in different tribes, he wbhed to know how many sleeps it would take me to go, and how many sleeps before others would come. I told him it would be a great number. He wished to know if it would be moons. I answered in the affirmative, and told him it would be at least two snows. He paused and looked sorrowful. His very look affected me ; he arose and went out. Sabbath, 14th. I attended service as usual in English. There were many Indians from the La Dalles who wished to know if they might be present. We told them there would not be sufficient room in the hall ; but a few of their Chiefs might attend, and that after the English service, I would have service with them ; and I met with them in the after- noon. They were punctual to the hour, and came in single file, the first Chief leading the way. When I prayed with them, they all kneeled down except two or three, and these were reprimanded by the Chief for impropriety of conduct, which was soberly received and implicitly obeyed. As on other similar occasions, I endeavoured to instruct them in the first principles of our revealed religion ; to which they gave close attention. The first Chief, at the close of service ,.v^il 144 wished to speak ; and on permission being given, he spoke a short time to his people, and then told me he had prayed much to the Great Spirit, and found his heart wis no better, but worse. He said a White man gave them a Hag, and told them to set it up on a pole, on Sundays, and meet and pray, sing their songs, and dance around the pole bearing the flag ; and that they had done so a long time.* He wished to know if it was right. I told him it was right to meet on the Sabbath, and pray, and sing, and talk about Qod, but to dance on the Sabbath was very wrong, and would offend God. I added farther, that they needed some person to teach them in the right way to worship God, and to be saved. He was affected, and kneeled down, and with tears in his eyes said, if you must go away, do send us somebody to'teaoh us the right way to serve God. We will now throw away what the man said to us about dancing. We will go to our people and tell them what you have said, and we will wor- ship God as you have taught us. I never felt so much like weeping over the Heathen, as on this occasion ; to see this poor benighted Indian Chief upon his knees, and with tears in his eyes, pleading for some one to come and teach them the way to heaven. What a spectacle for angels ! March Ist. We have many indications of the presence of spring. The mildness of the climate, and the soft tem- perature of the season. West of the mountains, render it one of the most delightful portions of our continent. The wide and oft'^n sudden extremes of heat and cold, to which the Eastern portions are subject, are almost unknown here, and while it is more agreeable to our feelings, it is also more favourable to health. Those who have the charge of the farming establishment at this place, have commenced thus early to cultivate their spring crops ; and the gardener is preparing his ground for the seeds. The grass in the yard begins to assume its beautiful, fresh green. The robin and blackbird have continued here through the winter, and now, with 9Qttie others of their feathered brethren, resume their *The reason assigned for including dancing in the services of the holy SabbaUi, was the fear, that singing and praying, without dancing, would not interest the Indians ; and to include it, would not he so great a de- parture from their common practices, as to excite aversion to pure worship. ,.,-...;..„. 145 he Hpoke ad prated no better, ^, and told and pray, eariug the ie wished o meet on fod, but to id offend person to be saved, ara in his \y to'teaoh row away I go to our will wor- much like to see this mth tears ach them I ! presence soft tern- der it one The wide ^hich the here, and ilso more ?e of the iced thus rdener is the yard obin and and now, ime their [>f the holy ing, would reat a de- a to pure cheerful warblings in the fields and groves. During the winter, the thermometer has not fallen below 22" FaLren- heit, and to this point only three days. At this date, it stood at sunrise, at 37" ; at noon, 46* ; and at sunset, at 44**. The rains, through the winter, have been less constant and heavy than I had anticipated ; and snow has fallen only ten days, sometimes in trifling qaantities, and at no one time over the depth of six inches, and has remained on the ground only a few days. Some have supposed, that the genial climate of the Oregon Territory is attributable to the proximity of the great Pacific, shedding the influence of its soft winds far into the interior. But the fact is, that almost the only winds through the winter are Easterly winds, consequently coming direct from thp regions of perpetual snow. Swallows made their appmranoe on the 12tli of March ; and among them a new species, characterized by the plu- mage of their head and back being a most beautiful change- able greeni with other parts purple and white. A number of the La Dalles Indians arrived to-day, who reside t-(;hty miles distant. One of their Chiefs stated to my fHend Mr. T. that they had changed their mode of worship ; that they do not now dance on the Sabbath, as they used to do, but they meet, and sing, and pray : and that since they have been better acquainted with the way to worship Qod, He hears their prayers, and that now, when they, and their wives and children, are hungry, they pray for deer, and they go out to hunt, and God sends them deer to satisfy their wants. It was interesting to know that they were disposed to do, as well as listen to what is taught them. Sabbath, ISth. Besides the usual service in the hall in English, I met the Indians from the La Dalles, and en- deavoured to exhibit to them the great truths of the Bible. They listened with deep interest to what I said, and then enquired whether they might expect, after I should go away, that some one would come and teach them. I could not promise, but replied, that I hoped it would not be more than two snows, before some one would be sent. They en- quired if after one or two sleeps, I would let them come in to my room and hear more about God. I appointed to meet them on Tuesday afternoon, and spoke with them several succeeding times before their departure. o i I? vr '' 'If I 140 It seems apparent to any observing- Chrkdftii, that the present is tbe fayotti^le time fbr the introduction of the gospel and oivi^tation amm^g the native* ««r thb wide in^ terior. Soon the onpidity and avariee of no^ will make the saine ajggresribnb hbre, as on the Eilst,'Miil the deadljr' influetiee ^ frdntier-viees will interpd^e a tka humming-btrd has arrived, and is seen 'dkrting from bush to bU8h> fading- upon the opening flowersi This most splendid sbecies is not known East of the thountaiiis. The whole of tM upper part ci the body is rufous, its head greenish, its throat cu- preous and metalliodal crimson, varying iocordifa^ to the moidenee of light. The throat of thb species resembles that of the oonanon^ ^^^^P^f ^^^ ^^ i^ '^^^^ ^^^ gorgeous in its coloursj and in presenting the metallio feathers, forms a broad ruff in the infi^or part of the neck, instead (k being wholly a component part of the plumage^ A new speeies of blue bird of uiicommonly beautiful plumage, arrived on the 14th. The swan, the several species of gieese, and the sand-hill crane, are passing to the North for incubation. Their screaming notes are constantly h^d, and in the night not the most inviting to repose. • ' ' ^ Before leaAnng the Lower country, it liiil Be proper to F resent, in a connected point of i*iew, die best information have been able to obtain of the several nations, their locatiuns, and numbers. There are Mineral tribes, about whom my knowledge is too limited, to make any definite statements. Among these are those about Pugets Sound, and the upper part of the Cowalitz ; also the Ghiltz Indians, North of the mouth of die Columbia and'CheaHs rlveilBi ' And although I have seen many of the Kflcatat iaadon, who ut reride at tli« amounting to two thousand iwaety««two> At Queen Charlotte's Island, eleven tribes. 148 numbering e^^ht thousand six hnndised persons. About Hanaga and Chatham Struts, there are nine tribes, contsun- ing tax thousand one hundred and sixty pwsons. Making the whole number of inhabitants, at and about these places, between the 47" and SS** of Nortli latitude, nineteen thou-^ sand thirt/ROght. At Queen Charlotte's Island there is a field of much prcnnise for a Misfaonar|r station, where the necessaries of U& could be easilj obtained, and for that high Northern latitude, the climate is very, mild. Their summer and winter residences are built of split plank, in about the same mainnar as those c£ the Chenooks. It is said they are well supplied, with fish, fowl^ oil, berries, and potatoes of sup«nor qnaUty, and in great abimdanoe ; and wild meat is someiames obtained. Thwr diress is mdoh the same as what has already been described. They do not treat thdr slaFCS as Idndly^ as the Iqidlans in the Lower country of Ae.Qregon Territory treat theirs. They think no more of killing their slaves than the loss of property. Sometimea when one Chief becomes offended with another, instead of fighting a duel, he goes home and kills a certain number of uaves, and challenges the other to kill as many. The challenged person, if ha can^ kills as many or more, and notifies the chaUenger of the number ; and thus they proceed until one or the othor gains the victory ; and the one who fails in this mode of combat: ceases to be a gen- tleman. ^*The point of honour" with; these barbarous gentry is fixed higher than in our Christian country, for here the life of one satisfies the powerful principle, but there, blood must flow profusely to-' quench the fire of high-minded revei^fe. They are not unfrequently engaged in wars, which are olben very bloody. They are much addicted to gambling, singing, and dan- cmg; and it is said their voices excel. The country is mountainous, and is generally covered with dense forests, consisting mostly of fir. On aL.d about M,Kenzie river there are six tribes of Indians, making a population of about four thousand two hundred and seventy-five. The climate is very cold and unpleasant ; but as cold and uninviting as it is, the Hudson- Bay Company have found men who are willing to re«)Jo there in sufficient numbers to make six ettablmtMrUs, for the purpose of obtaining the peltries which the Indians col- lect. Their principal establishment, which is Fort Simp- About lontain- IVfakiag places, n thou-* ere is a ere the lat high of split enooka. berries, idanoe; is m^oh 'he^ do ) Lower 7 think ropert/. mother, certain smany. >r more, us they in4 the a gen- rbarous try, for >le, but fire of ngaged id dan- intry is ibes of id two Id and udson- re«kIo if, for laool- Sifflp^ HO son, is on the tipper part of tht rivtr, and is a place of much resort for tb* In^iif. March 26th. Rode down onaa mora to the lower plains, as they are oallad, and waa delighted with the freshness of the wheat ftelda, whioh are begliiiliiig to wave in the gentle breezes, and the forest trees are beginning to show their leaves, and the plants th^ flowers. The sea-fowl, which through the winter covered these ftelds, are gone to their summer redldenoes, and the little'ftathfnwd tribes are tuning their notes, wUoh though less in sound than the swan, are yet more fall of meloay. Whose country is tbia ? ia ft qneation whioh has been agitated m the parliament of Great Britain, and in the Congress of the United Slates. The natives claim it as theirs, and say they only permit White men to redde among them. Bat tne govemmenta of Great Britain, and of the United States^ htve aasnmed the rifht to lay their claims ; Great Britain olaindiw the Colmnbui river for their Southern boundary, and the United States the 49** of North ^ ^tude for their Nortibwrn boundaiy. The two govem- r ents have ^Usonssed ^ qQesdon^ bnt postponed it until 1838, when it is to be agam taken np for discussion. The United States oUdms tm 49* on the ground, that as that parallel is established on the East ride of the Rocky Moun- tains, so by parity of reasoning, it should be continued to the Pacific ocean. Great Britain claims the Columbia river, for her Soutliem boundanr, hy right of discovery ; Captain Broughton of the ship Chatham, having ascended the river with two boats, as far as to where Fort Vancou- ver is now situated, and having formally taken possession of the river and country in the name of his Britannic Majesty, on the 31st of October, 1792. Captain Brough- ton was associated iHth Captain Vancouver of the ship Discovery, on a voyage of discovery in the North Pacific, and around the world, l^e possesion was taken in his Britannic Majesty's name in dne form. A friendly old Chief, who did not understand a word of their language, nor they a word of his, wue invited to join in the ceremony, and to drink his Majesty's health. Captain Broughton says the Chief appeared much pleased with the transaction. But it may be a subject of inquiry, with which the old friendly Chief was best pleased, with the rum he drank on the ocoasionf or with tne ceremony which was so full of 150 import ? And farther^ did the Chief,: by partaking of his Majesty's rum, and joining in the eei'emony, cede all this country to be the bona fide property of a fdre^ nation ? These deep and intricate questions I leave for learned di- plomatists to decide^ retaining my private opinion, that the Indians have a priority of claim. : ^ The time has arrived whien I expect to resume the work of further exploration. The weeks and months which I have spent here have fled rapidly away^ while I have been feebly endeavouring during the wuit^r to benefit the people of the Fort, and the Indians^ and to embrace all the oppor- tunities that should presenty to colltet information in those particulars which pertain' io^ the direct object of my tour. I shall wander for a Iciiigth. of time, yet future, among^the wild scenes of nature, which have so gratified and delighted me in traversing the w^emess of forest and prurie ; but my heart loolra back to' a variety of the mteresting scenes of civilized lifii, and eultivated ao^ty inmy ofwa far distant land, and I ardently desire to' aee ais wild field lying before me, brought under the same beauty and cultivation. All the social affections of our nature strongly desire the hap- piness, « which refined and christian society, and its con- comitant blessings can alone give. A feeling of solitari- ness, and of desoktiotk comes over the m.ind as you stand on the banks of the noble Columbia; and perhaps for weeks, it maybe for months, no whitened sail becomes visible to the gaze of your watching eye. At length a ship enters its waters, and the Indians hasten fifty miles to tell you the White man's great canoe, with its three upright sticks, is on its way, to bring a new supply of blankets, beads, and tobacco. The most unimportant incidents become interest- ing events, w:here so much mouotcny exists. Monday, 11th April. Having made arrangements to leave this place On the 14th, I called upon the chief Clerk for my bill. He said the Company had made no bill against me, but felt a pleasure in gratuitously conferring all they have done for the benefit of the object in which I am engaged. In justice to my own feelings, and in grati- tude to the Honourable Company, I would bear testimony to their consistent politeness and generosity ; and while I do this, 1 would express my anxiety fbr their salvation, and that they may be rewarded in spiritual blessings. In addi- tion to the civilities I had received as a guest^ I had drawn 151 of his [all this iHtion ? ued di. ^bat the e work hich I e been people oppor- those iy tonr. on/the Blighted ie; but ienea iA' distant I before Q. All le hap. ts con- K>litari- a stand ftps ibr visiWe ' enters 'ou the cks, is 9» and iterest- nts to Clerk o biU erring ioh I grati- Daonv ulel tyftod Addi< rawn upon their store for clothing, for goods to pay my Indians, whom I had employed to convey me in canoes, in my various jpurneyings, hundreds of miles; tp pay n^ Guides and Interpreters ; and have drawn upon their provision- storQ for the support of these men while in my employ. CHAPTER XVI. April 14th. Having exchanged farewells with the Gen- tlemen of the Fort, whose kindness I shall ever remember, 1 took passage in a canoe of an Indian CMef belonging to the La Dalles. Our company consbted of the Chief and his daughter, another Indian who took the bow, a half- blood, nao^ed Baptiste, who took the stem, and two White men, who with the Chief helped to propel the canoe, making fleven persona. These, with the baggage of several hundred- weight, loaded the frail craft so heavSy, that its sides were only about seven inches above water. This, upon a river averaging about a mile in width, with many rapids, and subject to winds^ was not a pleasant undertaking. But at this season of the year, when the Indians are about to commence fishing, another canoe could not be obtained. We proceeded up the river about twelve miles, to what are called the Upper plains, on the North side of the river, and encamped. This is a rich and beautiful prurie of some miles in circumference, and at this early part of the spring was covered with a coat of fresh green grass five or six inches high.' A little back firom the nver, there is a beautiful lake, which is the resort of water-fowl, sailing about, exhibidng their unsullied plumage ; and in the rear are forests of fir, whither the deer, which crop the grass of the prairie, flee, when they see men ascend the river's bank. A gathering storm rendered the night dark, cold, and drea- Tj ; for as yet no friendly habitations are reai^d upon these fertile fields for the resort and comfort of man. The rain continuing with some wind, we did not decamp on the morning of the 15th, until a late hour ; after which we passed up into the mountainous part of the country below the Cascades, and encamped near the high Pillar- rock which I have ipentioned. Soon after leaving our en- 152 oampment tihis mommg, we met Captain W. with a small compaBv of men m two canoes lashed tc^ether, on their way to Fort l^\^lliam upon W&ppatoo island. They were wet with the rain of the morning ; and their meagre conn- tenances and taittered garments did not spealc much in favour of the happiness of monntain>lifey or that they had found the hunter's E!l/sium. But they were in good spirits and passed merrily on their way. The basaltic rocks, which wall up the shores, are in some places, two and three hundred feet perpendicular, and for miles do not lose in interest by review. For more than half a mile the basalt presented the regular pentagons. Near these, where the dbore was inaccessible, we found a deer almost exhausted with swimmmg in the cold water. Its condition, and its miid^ large black eye, excited by fear, pleaded for the exeveiae^f humanity ; but our men, instead of rendering it that assistance which it needed, shot it, and stained the pure water of the river with ite blood. I could not help reeling a sympathy for this poor, beautiful animal. While the men, on the morning of the 16th, were enga- ged in taking the oanoe up the rapids and the Cascades, I walked five miles, sometimes along the shore of the river, and sometimes climbing over preciinces ; and so laborious was the task to get the canoe above all the rapids and fklls, that it occupied most of the day, giving me time for examining the scenery around. Almost every variety of volcanic production was to be seen, mostly basalt and amygdaloid. Large quantities of petrified wood were scat- tered along the shores, some of wmch preserved its natural appearance, but the large blocks, on being broken presented the appearance of mineral coal. The scenery around is grand ; yet such was the misty state of the atmosphere about the tops of the mountains, which were at this time covered with snow, and the chilliness accompanying, that the enjoyment was less than would be felt under other circumstances. After having finished the portage by the Cascades, we launched out upon tbe gentle current above, and proceeded up the river two miles, and encamped upon the North side. Several Indians came to our encampment, and manifested a kind and sociable disposition. They told us that Captain W. the day before, in cordelHng his canoes down the Cascades, lost one, and with it baggage, of which 153 a small Dn their lejr were coQn- nuoh i^ le/had •d spirits in some and for re than talons. found a I water. hy fear, instead shot it, cod. I eautiful e enga- :ades, I le river, boriou^ idfkUs, ime for iet7 o** lit and •e scat- natural rented und is sphere 9 time ^, that other )y the ibove, upon ment, )^told woes i^hich they had fomid some articles, and they would deliver them to him when he would again pass this way. The Indians are coming in from their winter retreats, and are engaged in catching sturgeon. The 17th beina; the Sabbath, we did not remove. It was a rainy day, the forepart of which, the rain came down like torrents, which is common about these mountains through the rainy season of the year. We were not able to make afire for preparing food, untH after twelve o'clock, when the rain began t-^ abate. On Monday ' e < ler was more pleasant, though chil- ly, and we miMiw ve^ ^ od progress up th n sr, through a country of diversified scenery. Though less mountain- ous, yet there were some mountains of interesting forms ; one almost a perfect cone, a thousand feet high, rising at an angle of 45 degrees, beautifblly smooth and covered with grass. We passed a few miles above this, a bluff pre- senting a perpendicular setnicirde, regularly stellated; In difiereQt places there were red bills of the colour of Well- bumt brick. We encamped on the North side of the river, upon a pleasant spot just above a small Indian village, where we found a good supply of dry wood, which added to both comfort and convenience. A wind which blew very fresh through the night abated on the morning of the 19th and we proceeded on our way with a gentle breeze, before which we spread a sail made of a bluiket. The wind continued to increase until the middle of the day, which rendered our navigation rather dangerous. We came to a large bend in the river, and to save the distance of coasting aroimd the bend, the men who rowed the canoe, wished to pass over to the south side of the river, which was here more than a mile wide. This seemed a dangerous experiment, because the wind and waves were too high for our deep>laden canoe; but as they were anxious to save labour, I did not persist in my objections. We had not gotten more than half way across, before the increasing wind raised waves which rolled and broke three times as high as our canoe, and threatened to overwhelm us. At length the men were not able to keep the canoe headed across the waves, and it turned sideways to them. It seemed that nothing short of a miraculous providence could save us. After some time, by exertion, and by some abatement of the wind, we got our canoe 2 m I6i upon oar coarse, and acrosa tUe waves, and safely arrived at the Sonth shorn. But our greatest danger was not Over. After coasting a fe\« miles along the south shore, we came to a promontory culled Cape Hum, a name given it on account of the dangers of passing it. It is of basaltic formation, rising two hundred feet, as I afterwards found by measurement, perpendicular upon the water's edge, extending about a nu^e in length, and the lower end pro- jecting several hundred feet into the river, llie wind had so far lulled, that we did not apprehend any danger in passing it. When we had passed the Horn, the wind drew around and increased to a gale. The foaming, break- ing waves ran high, and we could not return against the wind, and to go forward was to add to the danger of being filled, or dashed against shoreless rocks. Such was the force of the wind, and such the effort of the men to keep the canoe across the waves and away from the rocks, that, in the same instant of time, the bowman and the steersknan both broke their paddles, and the sail broke away from the left fastenings, and whirled over to the right. It seemed that all hope was gone. There were only three paddles left, two of which were immediately put into the hands of the steersn^ n and bowman. It was impossible to re- turn, and to ke progress against the current, with only the remaining lueans, appeared equally impracticable. A watery grave seemed inevitable ; but so it was, in the pro- tecting mercy of God, that when the waves broke, .'. was just without the canoe. It was necessary in order to our safety to be collected and fearless, and we cleared the sail, and gave orders as though no danger was near. Contrary to even our highest expectations, we continued to make headway against the current^ assisted probably by one of those large eddies, which abound in this river, until we came to a bay with a sandy shore, where we put our frail barque in safely, and waited until the winds and weather became more favourable. • Indians came to us, of whom we bought paddles ; and being again equipped for our voyage, we proceeded up the river to the La Dalles, and as far as we could safely go, and encamped near a very large eddy, where two years before nine men were drowned by being drawn into it, and the batteau capsized. Only one escaped, which he effected by laying hold of a bag containing some empty kegs. He ^X) w \y arrived not Over. we came 'en it on basaltic 'ds found >r'8 edge, end pro- wind had [danger in the wind :, break- linst the r of being h was the >n to keep »ck8, that, iteerstaian wa/ from It seemed « paddles the hands ible to re- with only 3able. A 1 the pro> fe, .*. was ler to our I the sail, Contrary to make )y one of until we our frail weather ies; and d up the ifely go, TO years ) it, and effected js. He was carried some few miles down the river, and taken up ay Indians who were passing on the river in a canoe. A number of Indians came to, us with horses, whom we en- gaged to take us and our baggage to the navigable water above the Falls. The 20th, was occupied m passing the La Dalles and the Falls, above which we encamped. The Indians, in great numbers, ape making their preparation for fishing. This place affords a favourable location for Missionaries. The Indians resort here in large numbers for fishing and remain usually through the summer, and some of them through the year. An intercourse would be always open with the surroimding tribes, and facilities would always be at hand both to disseminate the truths of the Gospel, and to obtain the means of comfortable subsistence. As soon as we were encamped, the Indians came arpund us, and their first enquiry was for pi pi (tobacco). I am much disgusted with this noxious plant, and am resolved to dismiss it as a necessary article to conciliate the Indians by smoking the fiiendlv pipe. If an Indian is suffering with hunger and nakedness, his first request is tobacco. As we had parted with the Indians who came with us from Fort Vancouver, we here engaged two others to assist us as far as to Walla Walla. On the 21st, we took a batteau which was left here, and made slow progress up the river against the current and frequent rapids. Our progress was much the same on the 22nd. This morning while encamped for breakfast, and the men were making preparation, I went into a little vil- lage, near by, and called at a lodge, where I found an elderly and youngerly woman, and four little girls. I spoke to them in the Chenook language, but they did not under- stand it. I then asked them by the language of signs, whose were those children. The youngest woman told me three were hers, but the eldest was an orphan, whom she had taken to provide for as her own. She then proceeded to tell me a lamentable story of her orphan condition. The grandmother would every now and then put in a few sentences, while she supported her chin upon her hand. So tender were the accents, and so moving the sound of their voices, that I felt affected with the narration, although I could not understand a word of their language. As they proceeded I could only nod assent. Their tenderness ' g T^ **W""il!!" wmm 166 appeared to increase br having a stranger'n ej'mpathy, and it was with relnotanoe that I had to leave them without being able to point them to Him, who is touched with the feeling of our inftrmitiee, and who binds up the broken heart, and who saves from sin. I said withm myself, as I moved slowly away to our encampment, surely these heathen are not savages. Our enoampment, on the 24th, vras on the South side of the river, at a place of much resort for Indian?, but who had not come in from their winter-retreat. There were here many canoes drawn up a short distance from the shore, and left without any apprehensions of their being stolen ; showing the confidence the Indians have in each others' honesty. They do not need guards, nor bolts and bars, and State prisons. To secure ourselves from a strong, cold wind, we selec- ted a place covered dansely with limd-broom com of last year's growth yet stqpding, and in the rear of willows which bwe skirted the shore of the river. Two Indians came to our encampment, who were as distressed objects as I have seen. Tnej vere not more than half covered with tattered skins of rabbits patched together ; and they were emaciated with starvation. To relieve the sufiferings of such objects of pity, the traveller needs to carry with him a store of clothing and provisions. It is distrestdng to see them, without biving the means of furnishing them substantial supplies. On the 25ta, we made slovt progress against the strong current with our poorl ^ manned batteau, and failing of ar- riving at Walla Walla as we had hoped, we encamped under the hiffh basaltic rocks, wiiere we found a email spot of soil, fhrnuhhig some wood. The next morning arrived at the Fort, where I met at the landing, a number of the Nez Perc6 Indians waiting my arrival. I felt much satis&ction in seeing them, and m witnessing their tokens of affection. It was luce meeting old friends ; and there appeared to be so much unfeigned sincerity in the reception they gave me, that it inspired the hope, that the disposition they express to learn the way of salvation is based on a foundation more permanent than novelty. I had told a band of the Cayuse Indians last October, on my way dcwn the river, I would meet them here in the Spring, and talk to them about God, and the way to worship him. Many of them were here 157 ph7» and it being feeling itt, and moved Ithenare side of at who re were e shore, stolen ; others' id bars, e seleo- 1 of last willows Indians objects covered nd they ifferings rrj with ig them ) strong gof ar- oamped tall spot arrived theNez )&ction lection. i to be and filled up as above described. In this instance, they had prepared a. cross to set up at the grave, most % IJid mar- mfla. iriver, Col- !^, a •efre- later that iplish Ifthat The pated h the probabl/ having beeu told to do 00, by some Iroquoii In- dians, a few of whom not in the capacity of teachers, but as trappers, in the employ of the Fur Companies, I saw West of (he mountains. One grave in the same village liad a cross standing over it, wluoh was the ouly relic of the kind I saw, together with this just named, during my travels in the country. But as I viewed a cross of wood mtide by men's hunds of no avail to benefit either the dead or the liviug, and fiir mora likely to operate as a salvo to a guilty conscience, or a stepping-stone to idi>latry, than to be understood in its spiritual sense to refer to a crucifix- ion of our sins, I took this, which the Indians had prepa- red, and broke it to pieces. I then told them we place a stone at the head and foot of the grave, only to mark the place; and without a murmur, they cl> arfully acquiesc.jd, and adopted our custom. As we proceeded up the river to the confluence of the Cooscootske, on account of the high wa^er in thp liver, we had to pass over the huge precipices of basalt. We we' . compelled often to approach very near the brink, when' 1 seemed as if we were almost suspended over the dizzy di pih of three hundred feet. We arrived at the ..\.o4cootske early in the afternoon of the third day after IovIlj Walla Walla, making the distance about 120 miles. The Indians are assembling in great numbers from different and distant parts of the country to enquire about the religion that is to guide them to God and heaven ; and which they also think, has power to elevate them in the scale of sc ciety in this world, and place them on a level with intelligent as well as Christian Wliite men. On the North of the confluence of these two rivers, and down the Nez Perce, the country is diversified with hills and mountains of a great variety of forms, from five hun- dred to two thousand feet high. ' Tr j volcanic and argilla- ceous strata are generally horizontal, but in some places thrown into various degrees of inclination, firom horizontal to perpendicular ; in other places curved or waving. They have all the regiihAiy of works of art, raised up by human vkill ; why should not then the power and skill of an Omuipoteu'^ hand be acknowledged in these stupendous works ? After having been several months where the Indians of the Lower coiontry came daily under my observation, the !*IW 160 contrast between them and these with whom I now am, is very noticeable. The former are more servile and abject, both in their manners and spirit ; while the latter are truly dignified and respectable in their manners and general ap- pearance, &r less enslaved to their appetites, or to those vices, whose inevitable tendency is to degrade. They know enough to set some estimate npon character, and have mnch of the proud independence of freemen ; and are desirous of possessing a consequence in the estimation of other people, and for this reason, no doubt wish to be taught, and they receive any instruction for their benefit with remarkable docility. Saturday, May 14th. Very many of the natives are coming in for the purpose of keeping the Sabbath with me ; but as I have only a small prospect of the arrival of my Interpreter, I shall be left, probably, to commiserate their anxiety, while it will be out of my power to do them good. I have frequent applications to prescribe for the opthal- mia, with wMch the people are much afflicted, not only at this present time, but which I should think is a prevalent endemic. Calomel, applied in about the quanity of one grain to each eye, once in twenty-four hours, I found to be an efficacious remedy. No injurious effects were known to have occurred from its use, and in most cases it was succsssfiil. The Nez Perces have been celebrated for their skill and bravery in war. This they have mentioned to me, but they say they now are afraid to go to war ; for they do not now believe that all who fall in battle go to a happy coun- try. They now believe there is no other way to be happy here or hereafter, but by knowing and doing what God requires. They have learned enough to fear the consequen- ces of dying unforgiven, but not sufficient to embrace the hope and consolations of the gospel. I have been interes- ted to see the reasonings of their minds, and the results of their reflections, amidst the dimness of so imperfect a know- ledge as they yet possess. It demonstrates that they are not indifferent to what they hear, and that their minds are inquisitive, and capable of thought and investigation. They have obtained light sufficient, at least, to show how great is the darkness in which they have been enveloped ; and it is to be hoped, that these efforts will be followed by efforts still more efficient, until that meridian day foretold 161 abject, truly al ap- those know much (sitous >eopIey they kable in prophecy, shall iullj come, and these Heathen be given, with all the remote ends of the earth, to the Saviour for a possession. Sabbath, 1 5th. The Interpreter I had been expecting did not anive, and consequently much of what I wished to say to these hundreds of Indians, could not be communica- ted for the want of a medium. I fdt distressed for them. They desired to celebrate the Sabbath after a Christian manner. When the Chiefs came and inquired what they should do, I told them to collect the people into an assem- bly, and spend the hours of this sacred day in prayer and singing, and in conversation on those things about which I formerly instructed them. They did so ; and it was truly affecting to see their apparent reverence, order, and devo- tion, while I could not but know that their knowledge was limited indeed. The voice of their singing echoed from the hills and vales, and I could not but hope, that the time will not be greatly future, when they will sing with the spirit and with the understanding. As a proof that they iiave acquired some correct ideas of spiritual worship, in distinction from the employment of mere outward forms, Kentuc, my Indian, who attended me so faithfully on my outward route, came to me, anxious to describe the differ- ent manner in which he regarded the worship of the two Chiefs, Charle and Tuetacus. He said Charle prayed with his lips, but Tuetacus prayed with his heart. Confession of sin appears to occupy much of his prayers, and if there is one among this multitude, who it may be hoped, has been everlastingly benefited by the gospel, I should believe it is this man. May 16th. I had hitherto been somewhat undecided what course to pursue in my future movements ; but came to the conclusion to proceed to the place of rendezvous, and join the returning Caravan, provided I could go by the way of the Grand Round, and to the South-west of the Snake river, and explore a part of the country, which I had not passed through the preceding autnmn. But the Indians chose to take the retired route of the Salmon river mountains, to avoid danger from hostile Indians, as it was well ascertained, t'i»at there was a party of Blackfeet war- riors ranging the territory West of the great mountains. I wished to explore the North-east branch of the Columbia, which runs through an important part of the country, and !l i %\\ lil V a 162 upon which, and its branches, many considerable tribes re- side. To return bj the way my company would travel, and by which I came, would be to leave the object of my tour only partially accomplished ; and after giving the sub- ject as deliberate a canvassing as I was capable, 1 conclu- ded to return to Walla Walla, procure guides and assistants, and go up the Columbia as far as Colville, which is the highest post of the Hudson-Bay Company, and about seven hundred miles, by the travelled route, from the Pacific ocean. I informed the Indians of my determination, who, though they evidently preferred that I should accompany tiiem, yet acquiesced in the decision, and showed more kindness than I expected. They readily, appointed Haminilpilt, one of their young Chiefs, to attend me on my return down the river. After writing several letters, to forward to the Uni- ted States from rendezvous, we turned our faces to our proposed destination, and at night arrived at the village on the Nez Pero^ river, where we had encamped on the eleventh. At this place I was peculiarly gratified to notice the in- dustry of these people. Some were engaged in catching fish, of which they gave me some excellent salmon ; the women and children were early out on horseback to pro- cure the cowish root, which they often manufacture into bread ; and when we lefl, only a few old persons and very young children remained in their village. Five or six miles from this village, up a small branch of this river, we passed a spot, which some few years ago, was a battle-field between the Nez Percys and some other nation, whose name I could not with certainty ascertain, but probably it was the Tuelca. The ground was judiciously chosen by the invading party, which was just back of a point of land coming down near the stream of water, leaving only a narrow pass, around which they opened a fire, while the Nez Percys, not expecting the approach of a foe, were taken by surprise, and fifteen or twenty of their number were killed. The very spot where each individual fell, is now designated by a pile of stones raised three or four feet high. The country over which we passed to-dAy, the distance of forty miles, was uncommonly pleasant, diversified with hills and valleys, and covered with its self-provided carpet of lovely green. Several Indians came on after us and 163 travelled in company. Near night we encamped in a rieb valler, through which a conquerable etream of water runs to the North. Before it w»e dark a number more, whom I recognized as former acquaiutauceny overtook ua* apparently reluctant to separate from our company. I conversed with them about the practice^ so umversal among the men, of using tobacco for smoking, a very expensive indulgence, for which they pay almost as much as for their whole list of comforts besides. In reply to mv arguments to dissuade them from its use, they said, ** White men smoke." I ad- mitted the truth, but told them tliat all White men are not wise in every thing they do; that they have practices among some classes which are not good. They call tobaccO) smolM. They remarked, ** we are better then than the White men ; Ibr they epii smoke/' — meaning tobacco — " we do not eat smoke.'' I'his to be sure was a mark of much shrewdness, and wholly unanswerable. Such is their attachment to this stupifying vegetable, that they will part with the last article of food or clothing, or even with their own hand', take down the poles, whicn uphold their dwel- lings, and sell them for fuel to obtain it. In this view I regard it as a vice, from which they should be rescued if practicable. May 18th. We continued our journey, and rode forty-five miles over a more fertile tract than we passed yesterday, and better supplied with wood. On the upper part of the Walla Walla river is a deUghtful situation for a misssion- ary establishment, htiviug many advantages not found for some distance round. U is, however, not so central for either the Nez Percys, Cayuses, or Walla Wallas as could be desired. Yet a mission located on this fertile field, would draw around an interesting settlement, who would fix down to cultivate the soil, and to be instructed. How easily might the plough go through these vallies, and what rich and abundant harvest might be gathered by the hand of industry, But even now the spontaneous growth of these vast plains, including millions of acres, yield in such profusion, tliat not the fiftieth part becomes the food of organic life. In some places bands of Indians' horses are seen ; the timid deor or littro ; the wary marmot, and the swift gazelle. But these with all the other animals and insects consume so small a proportion, that it can hardly be seen that there are any occupants of these wide fields. p 164 We experienced a long detention on the morning of the 19th, in consequence of our homes wandering into a ravine, to which retreat we could not easily trace them. They did not, however, violate their rule, of maldng our encampment for the time being, their home. We rode twenty-two miles, and arrived at Walla Walla. Much of the remain- der of the week was occupied in necessary arrangements for my North-east tour, and in writing letters to friends. Mr. P. assisted in obtaining Indian guides, and designated two French voyageurs to be my assistants ; one of whom could «peak some Elnglish. I concluded to take horses, and to go up through the Spokein country, leaving the great bend of the Columbia to the left some fifty or sixty miles, and when we should return to take the river. This would ^ve a more extended observation of the country, of the tribes who inhabit it, and of their condi- tion in r^^ard to prospects of establishing teachers among them. CHAPTER XVIII. The momnig of May 24th, we took a more Northerly course, and after travelling five hours over a somewhat high but diversified country, we descended into a fertile vale, through which flowed a small tributary of the Snake river. Here we found a village of Paloose Indians, who are a band of the Nez Perc^. We hired them to assist us in crossing the river, which here is a half mile wide, and has a rapid current. We had only a small canoe, which the strength of the current carried more than a half mile down tLe river, before we could gain the opposite shore. Three times we had to encounter the stream, before every thing was uafely over ; and the horses made a strong effort to swim to the shore. This, together with refitting, employed several hours. We travelled up the Pavillion river, which comes from the high lands, which divide the waters of this and the Spokein river. We pursued our way over hills and valleys of an entire prairie, until we came to the South part of the Spokein country. Near the summit level, which divides the waters 165 o£ the Snake and Spokein rivers, there is an interesting excavation, walled within by basaltic rocks. The piJlars are regular pentagons from two to four feet in diameter, in sec- tions of various lengths, standing erect and closely joined, making a wall from fifty to one hundred feet high. The excavated enclosure, though not in a regular form, yet is nearly entire, containing fifty acres, or more. On the out- side of this wall, the earth is as high as the pillars, and gradually slopes off in hills and dsdes. By what agency this excavation was formed, no rational theory, perhaps, can be given ; for there is no appearance, as in many other places, of volcanic craters, and no signs of the action of water. That these walls of basalt were forced up in dykes is rational, but this leaves still unexplained the mystery of the excavation. May it not have been a subsidence ? I passed through it leisurely, and surveyed with admiration these huge crystals of dark materials truly, but showing not the less for that circumstance, that certain laws govern the mineral world, as well as the animal or vegetable. We passed to-day several small villages of the Nez Perc^ and Spokein nations. They all manifested a perfectly friendly disposition, but they appeared to be poor, evidently in want of a comfortable subsistence. We stopped ibr the night, after a ride of fifty miles, near one of these villages of Spokeins. Their language differs almost entirely fix)m any tribe or nation I have yet seen. One of my Indian guides was sufficiently acquainted with their language, to inform them of the object of my tour through their country, with which they were not only satisfied, but manifested an interest in it. We took an early departure on the morning of ths 26th, but had travelled only a few hours before my Indian guides lost the track and the course they should pursue. Becom- ing confident they were not right, I alighted and set my pocket compass, and discovered, that instead of a North- east direction, they were going West. Enquiring of them if they knew where to find our course again, a young Chief putting his hand to his head, and with gestiires expressing the confusion of his mind, answered waiitu en aoko, " I do not know." Our situation was rather embarrassing. We had very injudiciously left our rifles behind, and at about equal dis- tance from Walla Walla and ColvUle, on a widely extended i 166 prairie, with provisions adequate to our wants otily for two days, and no probable means of obtaining more until we should arrive at the Fort ; to be lost under these cir- cumstances was no pleasant affair. The point of a high mountain we had passed was in view> and we might retrace our path) and therefore I was determined not to lose sight of this land-mark, until we should find the trail leading to the Spokein river. While my guides went off in search of it, I could hardly fail to find, even in our circumstances, some amusement in the apathy of my two Frenchmen. They are so confiding in Indian skill to find their way through any country, as by intuition, that they will sing or go to sleep with the same heedless indiflerenoe when lost in a wide wilderness, as when launched upon the waters of a well known river, or performing the duties of the Fort. They appear wholly unconcious of danger on the approach of hunger and starvation, until long after the last morsel is consumed, and never borrow from futurity to add to the evils that afflict them to day. On this occasion these men spent the time of our detention in calm repose. After some time our guides returned, and told me they had found some Spokein Indians about a mile distant, who were travelling towards the South, but then were stopped to refresh their horses. We proceeded to the place, and I engaged onb of them to assist us in finding the way to the the main trail, or to the Spokein river. He was a tall, in- telligent-looking man. He mounted his horse, and set off with such speed, that, jaded as our horses were, it was with difficulty we could keep up with him. After going at this rate more than an hour he stopped, and pointed us to a lake, and said we should find the great trail on the East side. Lest we should again lose our way, I was anxious to have him conduct us to their village on the river, but could not prevail upon him to go any &rther, although I offered him a large compensation. His only and unvarying answer was, that he had done for us all that was needed, and why should he perform any unnecessary labour for us and take pay. It appeared to be a principle with him, that it would be wrong for him to take pay for what we did not need. I was aston- ished at the honesty of this Heathen, and his stedfast adherence to it, when I remembered how many there are in civilized lands, who, to be well paid, would lengthen a ser- vice to an unnecessary extent, and who would artfully 167 deceive you to make you believe it very important. For his faithfulness and honesty I not only paid him on the spot to his satisfaction, but afterward sent him a present of pow- der and balls, articles highly valued. Without any farther difficulty, we arrived at the Spokein river, at four 6'clock P. M. When we came to the river, which is about thirty rods wide, we hallooed a long time for the Indian, who keeps a canoe ferry, but without success. At length two women came to the river, and with uncommonly pleasant voices, together with the language of signs, the latter of which only I could understand, informed us that the ferryman was gone upon a short hunt, would return in the evening, and the next morning at sun two hours high, he would come and take us over. I never heard voices more expressive of kindness. I requested them to paddle the canoe over to us, and my men would perform the labour of fenying over our baggage.. They declined on account of the rapidity and strength of the current, the river being full of freshet. Therefore we had to encamp and wait for the morning. This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not exten- sively wide. The North- West Company had a trading-post here, one bastion of which is still standing. These woods present a fine range for the ornithologist. The magpie is seen in great numbers, fljing from tree to tree, vociferating their chattering notes. Also thrushes, warblers, and wrens, are numerous, cheering those otherwise solitary wilds with their delightful songs, grateful to the weary traveller Their carols appear to be designed to animate each other in their intervals of labour, while constructing their fabric admir- ably adapted for the habitation of their tender offspring ; on an examination of which, the most infidel philosopher must be astonished, and be constrained to acknowledge, that God has manifested himself in supplying, instead of reason, a mysterious, unerring instinct, always sufficient for the end to be accomplished. After the river, we crossed the valley of level alluvial soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide, and the East side especially is very fertile. Here the village of the Spokeins is located, and one of their number has commen- ced the cultivation of a small field or garden, which he has planted with potatoes, peas and beans, and some other m r i 'I ! ■■II V— ■ ( V 168 vegetables ; all of which were flouriahing, and were the first I had seen sprinring up under Indian industry West of the mountains. Our ferryman conducted us through the valley to the foot of the mountain on the East, and pointed out the trail we should pursue. This sectwn of country presents less appearance of volcanic operation ; and in several places I found jgronite in its natural form and position, and which resembles that found in the Elastera states. When we had arrived at the height of this moun- tain, we came to a sandy plain, several miles wide, covered with yellow pine, forming an open wood. Oirer parts of this plain were scattered volcanic eruptions of singular formation. Near evening,many Spokein and some Nez Perce Indians came riding into the place of our encampment, and turned out their horses with ours in the half wood and prairie. The Spokeins who had seen me on my way, and had learned who I was, sent information out to the various hunting parties, that a minister was passing through their country, and as it was the iirst time any one was ever among them, they wished to see him, and hear what he had to say to them. They brought with them a good Interpreter, a young man of their nation, who had been to school at tlie Red river settlement, on the East side of the mountain, and who had a very good knowledge of English. We had public worship that evening in the Spokein and Nez Perc4 languages. One of the Nez Perces, a Chief, understood the Spokein language, and collected his people a little back of the Spokeins, and translated the discourse as it was delivered, into the language of his own people, without any interruption to the service. This was a plan of their own deviidng. All the circumstances combined were to me very interesting. If I had not been delayed the three seve- ral times, they would not have had time to collect their people and overtake me. Some of them had been engaged in die business of assembling and following a day and a half. Many of them were unwilling to return, and expres- sed their determination to go with me to Colville. What influenced these benighted Indians to manifest so much so- licitude in my instruction derived from the word of God ? It must be the influences of the Divine Spirit. And shall these influences pass unregarded and unimproved ? \ May 28th. 'Hie morning was cloudy and aome rain fell. !• 169 but this did not prevent our taking an early departure ; for it was necessary to be on our way, as my men had the evening before, consumed their entire stock of provision^, and let what would take place, we could obtain no more until we should reach Colville. We could not obtain any game ; for being advised by the Superintendent of Walla Walla not to encumber ourselves with rifles, we had un- wisely left them behind. After travelling a few miles in an Easterly direction, we came to a very fertUe valley extending North and South, at least fifty miles, and of various exteiit in width, from a half a mile to two. It is well adapted to cultivation. The valley is an open prairie, well supplied with grass, and even in this high latitude of 48** cattle could do well through the whole year, without the labour of cutting hay. The hills on each side axe covered with woods. As we proceeded down this valley, we came to villages of Indians who understood the Spokein language, but belonged to another tribe, probably to the Coeur d' Al^ne. Near their principal village we came to Mill river which was in full fresh. They had no canoes, and we found difficulty in getting my baggage across. But the Nez Perc6 Chief took part of it upon lus shouldera, mounted his horse and swam over, and crossed and re- crossed until all was upon the other side. I then crossed upon a pole, which was not the most desirable method, but still it was preferable to a cold bathing on horseback. After pursuing our course a few miles farther, I divided my re- maining stock of eatables with my destitute French and Indian attendants, leaving the anticipation of our next meal to the time when, after a long day's industrious travel, we should find ourselves safely at Colville. Towards the lower part of the valley, through which we were passing, the land is remarkably fertile. A missionary located here would have easy access to the Spokein, Sapwell, Sintou-too-ouUsh, Kettle falls. Lake, Cceur d' Al^ne, and Pondera Indians. I know not of so important a field with- in two hundred miles, presenting the natural advantages of mild climate, good soil, and forests, all combined. We arrived at Fort Colville late in the afternoon, after a weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of this fort is on an elevated spot, about fifty rods from the river, sur- rounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, and opening in every direction an extended prospect of mountain scenery ; 11 l: 170 and a half mile below are Kettle falla, above wliich the river, spreads out widely, and moves slowly, mitil just above the precipice, it contracts into a narrow channel, and dis- appears from the view of the spectator, who beholds it at the fort, winding its way among rocks below. This estab- lishment is built for defence, and is woli stoccated, but so friendly have the natives always been, that no wars have ever occurred among them. It is occupied by some half dozen men with Indun families, and is well supplied with the useful animals and fowls common to farming establish- ments. The winter and simimer grains, together with gar- den veffotables, are cultivated with success and in profusion. This place does not suffer with summer drought, as many other parts of this country do, and rains are of frequent occurrence ; the seasons here not being marked, as on the lower parts of the Columbia, by wet and dry. I was much disappointed hi not finding Mr. McDonald, the Superintendent of the fort, at home. He had left a few days before with a brigade for Fort Vancouver ; but the kindest attention was paid me by those who had the charge of the fort. I found here an old man, who, thirty years before, accompanied Lewis and Clarke aoros: the continent, and had for several years past taken up his residence here. He is in the employ of the Fur Company, and acts as Interpreter to the neighbouring Indians. On Sabbath, May 29th, the people of the fort who un- derstood English, assembled, and we worshipped the God of our lives, who had protected us hitherto, and from differ- ent nations had collected us in a little group in this end of the world. The Indians too came about me and expressed great anxiety to be taught the revealed will of God. They endeavoured to make me understand what' their former traditionary belief and practices had been, and to let me know, that what they had learned from me was reasonable and satisfactory to them, and that they wished to know all that related to so important and momentous a subject. But our medium of commvinication was inadequate to a full disclosure of that most interesting truth, that God so loved the world that he gave his only Son to die for its redemp- tion. Wherever I have met with the natives of this distant region they have invariably, with earnestness and with im- portunity, asked the gift of the gospel from the hands of 171 lich the iit above tind dis- ds it at s estab- but BO ra have me half ed with itablish- rith gar- •ofusion. »s many frequent s on the Donald, sit a few but the B charge tj years Dntinent, esidenee and acts Brho un- the God m differ- is end of xpressed I. They • former ) let me isonable mow all ct. But o a full 50 loved redemp- 9 distant Nith im- lands of Christians. But how little of the faith, and love, and liber- ality of the church is invested in the most profitable of all enterprises, the conversion of the world. Should some one propose the construction of a rail-road from the Atlan- tic to the Paciiio, and demonntrate the practicability of the measure, and shew that nature has interposed no effectual barrier, and that it would concentrate not only the whole internal, but also the China trade, and the stock would produce annually a rich dividend, how soon would Chris- tians engage in it. Monday, the 30th of May, we com aenced our journey down the Columbia. The brigade haviug taken all the boats from this place, on their late passage to Fort Vancouver, we were compelled to take horses for Okanagan. I changed my guides for two others ; one a Spokein, and the other a. Paloose ; retaining my two Voyageurs. As we left Fort Colville we had a fine view of Kettle falls. The Columbia was in its freshet, and as it rolled down in a broken cata- ract the distance of one hundred feet, it was a sublime spectacle. The whole scenery as we proceeded down the river was marked by variety, wildness, and romantic gran- deur, as if the hand of nature, in decking these remote re- gions, had consulted for her own amusement, some of her most playful and tasteful fancies. The mountains around itre constructed on a scale of magnificence, presenting al- most all the varieties of elevation, precipice, and forest. This is the country which by more than one of my Prede- cessors in travel, has been celebrated as the abode of wolves, bears, and rattlesnakes, to an extent that renders it almost impenetrable, by ordinary courage ; but we found no indi- cations of the presence of these animals before this evening, when the distant barking of prairie wolves, for once, interrupted the universal silence by which we were sur- rounded. After a few hours' ride, on the morning of tlie 3 1st, we recrossed the Spokein river just above its entrance into the Columbia. This large valley is capable of supporting a much more numerous population than now obtain a sub- sistence by hunting and fishing. The Indians residing here afforded us very cheerfully all the assistance we needed in ferrying the river. In the neighbourhood of this place I discovered a mountain of rich and very beautiful marble, situated on the south side of the Columbia river ; f fi liil a 172 some seoHona are pore white, or Miochar^te, while others are beautifnlly clouded with blue and brown. It efTorveaced freely with sulphuric acid. This will in time become very valuable ; for being upon navigable waters, it can be transported into various countries. At this place we left the river to save traversing a great bend, and took a Westerly course, expecting to arrive at it again before night. We pursued our way over an elevated prairie, destitute of wood and water. It was evident night would overtake us before we could reach the river, unless we should urge forward with all the speed that humanity for our horses would permit. Before nve o'clock we came near to the great gulf walled up with basalt, which as we supposed, embosomed the deep-flowing Columbia. Our liext object was to find a place where we could descend to its shores. After ranging along two or three miles, we found an entrance by a ravine ; but to our disappointment it was the Grand CouM, which was undoubtedly the former channel of the river. With considerable d^culty we descended into it, and found it well covered with grass, and by searching, obtained a small supply of water. This quondam channel of the river is nearly a mile wide, with » level bottom, and studded with islands. Its sides are lined, as the river itself is in many places, with basaltic rocks of two and three hundred feet perpendicular. This Coul^, separates to the left from the present channel of the Columibia, about one hundred miles below Colville, and is about one hundred in length, when it again unites with the river. The basaltic appearances are exhibited here as in other places, furnishing evidences of eruptions at different periods of time. A peculiarity in this instance was a stratum of yellow earth, eight or ten feet in thickness between the strata of basalt. Those who have travelled through the whole length of the Coul6 represent it as hav- ing the same general features throughout, while the whole distance of the river, around to the place where it again unites, as I know from personal observation, has not the peculiarity of a deep channel, cut through the rocks. Fort Okanagan is situated on the north side of the Co- lumbia, above the confluence of the Okanagan river, from whibh, and from the Indians residing in its vicinity, the fort takes its name. It was first built by Mr. David Stuart, a partner of the American Fur Company, in 181 1. There 178 others veaced e very an be is an open epaoe of considerable extent around) but the Hoil 18 of an inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but pro- ducing grass to ttupply the cattle and homes belonging to the station. A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found in the vicinity. The Columbia does not appear to have continued so long in its present channel, after leaving the (ffand Conl^>, us to form those extensive alluvial bottoms which exist in many other parts of its course. AUer leav- ing the Spokein woods there is very little forest to supply timber for fuel, fencing, or building. They are dependant on flood-wood which descends the river, for their ordinary liiel, and the freshets generally furnish a large supply. Not far distant, at the North, there are snow-topped moun- tains, but the country here is not remarkably mountainous. At this place I had an opportunity to see some of the Okanagan tribe. Their personcd appearance is less noble than the Spokeins, but they are not less peaceable, friendly, and honest in their dispositions. This is evident from the fact that the charge of the fort in the absence of Capt. Ogden, the Superintendent, was committed temporarily to a Frenchman, and several of the Indians. This tribe with the Shooshaps, number about two thousand persons. They are much employed in the salmon fishery, and large quantities are prepared by drying for their winter's use. Their Country does not abound in game, and hunting occupies but little of their time. The climate here, as in other parts of the Oregon Territory, is very mild and salu- brious. Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired two Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigating a batteau which we obtained at this place ; and committed our horses to my Indian guides to take them across the country to Walla Walla. My confidence in the honesty of these men was without any suspicion, and I could trust them with our six horses, saddles, and bridles, to go on any enterprize within their capacity to accomplish. They have so much self-respect, that they would not on any account commit a crime, which would expel them from their people, induce them to seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as freemen. June, 2d. We embarked in our boat to perform a voyage of four hundred miles, with the river in full fireshet ; and its strong current increased by high water, secured to us a .x mum ir ir - / \ 174 H- velocity beyond the ordinary. We passed several rapids, and dashed over the breaking surges, where the least mis" management would have been inevitable submersion, with- out any prospect of escape. But my voyageurs showed by their adroitness at the oar, that they were upon their favourite element, and their gaiety and songs began to revive, on being relieved from the rough, and to them, un- pleasant journey on horseback, over hills, and down ravines, and through forests. The elasticity of their native charac- ter was almost immediately apparent, and we glided on with •jelerity, making a voyage of one hundred miles before it. Was necessary to seek our safety for the night on the shore. In the afternoon we passed a section of rock, per- pendicular two hundred and fifty feet ; half way to the top of which, a petrified tree of considerable magnitude is sus- pended. It appears to be retained in its pkee by having itd roots inserted in the crevices of the rocks, betweei^ the layers of different eruptions. How it procured its elevated situation is quite a mystery. It could not have vegetated thef" , unless at the time of its growth, it was supported by a surface upon which to rise; and taking the present condition of the rocks, it could not be deposited there by any floods of the river, and certainly it could not in such case, intertwine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company, and others who navigate this river, have amused themselves by shooting off pieces with their rifles, and they assured me it was whoUy a petrifaction. Our encampment this evening was a few mUes above the Long Rapids, which extend nine miles. June dd. As we approached the Long Rapids, about fifty miles above Walla Walla, they presented the appear- ance of waves rolling under a strong breeze of wind, and their distant murmur broke upon the stillness of the morn- ing. To pass them without fear, is an undertaking which requires courage and self-possession ; but knowing that these inland navigators are experienced in all the dangers of boating excursions, I had but little drawback upon the pleasure I anticipated in a swift descent over them. With much care and exertion of my men we safely outrode them, a distance of nine miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls, cascades, and rapids, together with the ever- varying scenery of nature's wildest and grandest forms, that keeps the mind from wearying, and awakens almost perpetually 175 rapids^ st mis- ,with- wed by their gan to m, un- avines. some new emotions and energies, while performing a voy- age of several hundred miles in open batteau or light canoes. Not unfrequently in the stillness and solitude of the river, when it assumed its more placid features, such a sense of security is enjoyed, that a resort to books, to assist in a profitable disposition of time, is pleasant. The distance of about one hundred miles we passed to- day, the country is level and destitute of wood. I obser>^ed a bank of clay in layers of diversified structure, resembling the basaltic strata which I have often noticed. The differ- ent sections were of various colours; some dusky red, some yellow, and blue, and others white, making an upright elevation of one hundred feet or more. Salmon are ascen- ding the river in great numbers, and groups of Indians are scattered along pursuing the employment of catching them. Wherever we passed them, thoy came off in their canoes, bringing salmon to sell, some of which were roasted in the best manner, and served up on broad pieces of bark, which answered a good purpose in the absence of plates ; and often large leaves of plants were spread neatly upon the bark. My voyageurs found sufiicient employment in the gratification of their appetites, to interrupt for a while their anecdote and song. We arrived at Walla Walla at even- ing, just in season to find a shelter fi'om one of the most violent thunder storms, accompanied with wind, which I have witnessed in this country. Such storms are of rare occurrence West of the mountains. CHAPTER XIX. Having travelled over the most important parts of the Upper Country, and collected the facts of its physical condition, together with the location, character, and condi- tion of the most numerous tribes of Indians ; before leaving this section of the territory. West of the Rocky Mountains, it may be proper to give a connected summary of these particulars. On the South part of the Oregon Territory adjoining Upper California, are located the Shoshones or Snake Indians. I was not able to gain knowledge of their 176 ,11 definite nambers, but tbe general estimate is that they are more than ten thousand. Their country is decidedly the most barren West of the mountains ; most parts being cov- ered with scoria and other volcanic productions. These In- dians are poor, and as indicative of their condition and their resources, they are called Snake Indians, and Root diggers. Some of them go to the mountains and hunt buffalo, and they very generally resort to the river in the season of fish- ing. They have a tolerable supply of horses. When they go to Rendezvous they make a great display, advancing on horseback, dressed in their most fantastical manner, exhib- iting all their ornaments of feathers, beads, wolf tails, teeth and claws of animals, arranged according to their notions of good taste. Their warriors are armed, hideously paint- ed, and those who have been wounded in battle are very fond of showing their scars. After coursing around and through the camp of Rendezvous for some time, they dismount and go through the ceremony of shaking hands. I had also an opportunity of seeing many of the Utaws at Rendezvous. Their country is situated to the East and South-east of the Shoshones, on the head waters of the Colorado river, which empties into the gulf of California. They number nearly four thousand persons. They appear to be a mild and peaceable people, honest, kind, and hospitable to strangers ; and mild and affectionate among themselves. They live by hunting, fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their dress is plain, and their manners are unassuming. Their country is warm, of fine climate, and good soil. Proceeding North, we come to the country of the Nez Perces, which has many fertile parts adapted to tillage, and all of which is a fine grazing country. They number about two thousand five hundred ; but they have been so often mentioned, that I need not add to what has been said of them. The Cayuses are situated to the West of the Nez Per- cys, and very much resemble them in person, dress, habits, and morals. They are equally peaceable, honest, and hospitable 'o strangers. They number more than two thousand persons. Their wealth consists in horses, which are unusually fine, and numerous ; it being no uncommon thing for one man to own several hundred. Their country, especially about the Grand Round, is uncommonly fertile, 177 producing spontaneouHly, CAmmaii in great abundance, upon which, with fish and some game, the^ principally subsist. Their anxiety to bo instmotod in the way of salvation is as great as that of the Nez lPero6» and Flatheads. The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about the river of the same name, and range some distance below, along the Columbia river. The number of persons in this tribe is about Ave hundred. In their character, employ- ments, and moral habltt, they do not materially differ fiom the last named tribeii. The Paloope tribe are properly a part of the Nez Perces, and in all respects are like them. Their residence is along the Nez Perce river and wp the Pavilion. They number about three hundred, Tlie four last named tribes speak the same language with a little dialectical difference. North-east of the Paloof efi are the Spokein nation. They number about eight hundred persons, besides some small tribes adjoining them, who might be counted a part of their nation. I have so fully described them that it is unr.eces- sary to enlarge upon their character. Their country is very much diversified with mountains and valleys, prairie and woods ; and a large part is of primitive formation ; some parts are very fertile. They denominate themselves the children of the sun, which in their language is Spokeiti. Their main dependence for subsistence is upon fishing and hunting, together with gathering roots and berries. I have stated that a commencMnent \n made in agriculture, which it may be hoped will be generally ^liopted, so that tlir> present precarious mode of living mii.\ %ive place to that which will be substantial. TI>fy h»v ' m&ny horses, but not so numerous as tlifiir i)ftij^hbou^«» .'ait her- South. East of these are the CUmn d'Ak^^e Indians, whose num- bers are about seven hundrn^l, ^nd who arc characterized by civility, honesty, and kindin ns. Tlieir country is more open than the Spokeins', and ^(juaDy, if not better adapted to agriculture. The country of the Flatheftdfj is still farther East and South-east, and extends to the Rocky Mountains. They are a very interesting tribe ; dignified in their persons, noble, frank, and generous in thflir dispositions ; and ha ve always shown a firm attachment to White men. They number about eight hundred persons, and live a wandering life. For subsistence they follow the buffalo upon ti) ■; waters of 4, 1 '\i 178 Clarke and Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the head waters of the Missouri. They have become a small tribe hy constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians ; not that they themselves are of a ferocious or hostile disposition. Being averse to war, they wish to settle upon their lands, and are only waiting to be instructed in the arts of civilization and in Christianity. Their country is mountainous, but intersected with plea- sant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are prairie. The mountains are cold, but in the valleys the climate is mild. An anecdote was related by a Chief of this nation, which illustrates their native character, and the propensity of In- dians to imitation. He said the first White men he saw was when he was young. It was summer. He said these are a new people, they look cold, their faces are white and red ; go make a large fire, and I will ask them to come and warm them. In a short time his people had made a fire, and brought new buffalo robes. The White men came into his lodge, and he wrapped them in the robes and seated them by the fire that they might be warm. The robes slipped off ; he replaced them. Soon the White men made signs to smoke their pipe. The Chief thought they asked for food, and brought them meat. The White men gave him the pipe and they smoked, and afler this they loved smoke, and they loved the White men, they said they were good. The Pondcras are so nearly like the Flatheads in person, manners, and character, that a particular description of them may be passed over. They number about two thou- sand two hundred, and live on the North of Clarke's river, and on a lake which takes its name from the tribe. Their country has many fertile parts, and would soon be put under cultivation, if they could obtain instructors to teach them agriculture, and to impart to them a knowledge of those things which are necessary to constitute a happy and pros- perous community. Their language is the same as the Spokeins and Flatheads. The Cootanies inhabit a section of country to the North of the Ponderaa along M'Gillivray's river, and they are represented as an uneoniraonly interest- ing people. They speak a language distinct from all the tribes about them, open and sonorous, »nd free from guttu- rals, which are comwon in the language of the surrounding 179 tribes. They are neat in their persons and lodges, candid :ind honest, and kind to each other. I conld not ascertain their numbers, but probably they are not over a thousand. There are several other tribes of Indians, whose countries are situated upon the waters of the North-east branch of the Columbia river, resembling each other so nearly in their customs, morals, manners, and mode of living, that it is unnecessary to go into a particular description of each separately. I will mention the names, locations, and num- ber of some of the principal. North of the Cootanies are the Carriers, whose number is estimated to be four thou- sand : and South of these are the Lake Indians, so named from their place of residence, which is about the Arrow Lakes. They are about five hundred in number. At the •South, and about Colville, are the Kettle Falls Indians. Their number is five hundred and sixty. West of these are the Sinpau61ish, one thousand in number ; and below these are the Shooshaps, having a population of five hun- dred and seventy-five. At the West and North-west, next in order, are the Okanagans, numberin^^ one thousand and fifty. To the North and West are several tribes, about whom I obtained no definite information. Between Okanagan and the Long Rapids are detachments oi Indians who appear poor, and wanting in that manly and active spirit, which characterizes the tribes above named. South of the Long Rapids, and to the confluence of Lewis' river with the Columbia, are the Yookoomans, a more active people, numbering about seven hundred. The whole number of the above named Indians is thirty-two thousand five hun- dred and eighty-five. This is probably a low estimate, -iiid in the number, there are not included the Fall and La Dalles Indians, and many other numerous tribes residing at the North and South of the Falls of the Columbia, whose numbers I could not with certainty ascertain. We might more than double this nimiber, and probably still come be- low the population of the Upper country. The Indians to whom our horses were entrusted, came in safely as I expected. After resting on the Sabbath, we renewed, on Monday the 6th, our voyage down the river, liaving Fort Vancouver for our next destination. We exchanged the batteau for a large canoe, retaining the men who attended me from Okanagan. Assisted by the high water, we made rapid progress until three in the afternoon. 180 ^A-40>-: when a strong head-wind compelled us to take to the land for the remainder of the day, having gone seventy-five miles. The Indians as usual came to us in their friendly manner, offering us salmon, and asking tobacco, which they esteem more highly than either gold or silver. They have been accustomed to traffic in this commodity, until they expect it of every passing traveller. The morning of June 7th was more calm, and we got im- der way at an early hour, but with the rising day the wind again increased to such a degree, that we were obliged to suspend our voyage. After a strenuous endeavour to effect a landing on the North, we were at length driven across to the opposite shore ; and here for the first time in all my travels, I found it impossible to pitch my tent ; such being the strength of the wind, that i. would have been carried away. The canoe was dbrawn upon the jsbore, and wrapping myself in my blankets and buffialo robes, I laid me down in safety by the side of the canoe. We had here, as at all our other landing places, the usual friendly visit from the neigh- bouring Indian^j. The foUowvag day we were able to resume our journey, and passed the rapids, which in the tempest of yesterday, looked so forbidding. A little caution on the part of my experienced Frenchmen, in regard to the numerous islands and eddies, enabled us to effect the passage in perfect safety. In a short time wt approached the falls of the Columbia, which, in low water, are twenty feet perpendicular, followed by raging rapids below, but now in the high freshet season they are passable by the descending boats when not heavy laden. Bousheau, my steersman, proposed to run them, and while I was revolving in my mind the chances of safe- ty, and thought of going on shore, before I anticipated, we were between breakers on the right, and on the lefl, and onward we must go, let consequences be what they would. We Ifopt vv.vdT the middle of the river, which was free from breukers, though not f^om high su\ ges. Soon with amazing velocity, we were over the cataract of the mighty waters, and made our way into a bay at the head of the first port- age of the La Dalles. The accumulation of water from these stupendous mountains above, was so great that the falls were almost lost in the depth. Such were the eddies and surging of the water among the rocky islands in the narrow, broken channel of the La 181 Dalles, that we had to make three portage*). Our canoe was 80 large that twenty Indians were not too many to carry it safely. Their mode of carrying, is to invert it npon their heads and shoulders, and then it is with difficulty and danger that they pass the steep and rocky ravines. When we came to the last portage the Indians were not willing to take hold again, unless we would pay them in powder and balls ; and although their demands were reasonable, yet our stores were not adequate to meet them, and they would not perform the labour without the required article. I engaged Sopelay, and another influential Chief, to induce their men to perform the labour of making this last portage, and promised that I would send them the demand from Fort Vancouver, and for their security I would give them a talking paper. They stated to their people my proposal, and were about to succeed, when Tilki, the first Chief, who had become familiar with an American Trader, laughed at their credulity. Sopelay, however stated to the people, that he had seen me at the fort, and that he heard me teach the Indians good things, and did not believe I would deceive them. He prevailed, and the men took hold of the work ; and in four hours from passing the falls we were beyond the raging waters, where we made our morning repast upon very fine salmon. Our passage the remainder of the day was pleasant ; we passed Cape Horn without difficulty, and landed for the night twelve miles above the Cascades. In this high state of the water, very few of the trees of the submerged forest were to be seen. On the morning of June 9th, we passed the Cascades by hiring Indians to cordelle the canoe down them, by making one short portage, the distance of two miles, to the great basin, oi rather the great whirlpool below. This labour ir attended with some danger, and eases, though not numerous, have occurred of the loss of lives and property. As I walked along the shores, and over precipices, T saw the wrecks of several canoes and batteaux strewed upon the rocks. We embarked upon the great basin, at the lower part of which we passed into a rapid, where the main current took a dia- gonal course from the North towards the South shore. On both sides of this current there were heavy breakers, and as the only course of safety, we took the middle. We had not prot;eeded far before a large whirlpool, with a deep, devour- 162 |!' iug vortex formed almost directly before ua, and as we were going forward very switlly, it seemed impossible to avoid its circling current. I said to my steersman, " bear a little to the right." " O don't speak here," was his reply. As we approached the vortex, it filled after the manner of smaller eddies and we soon felt the infiaenoe of its waters rolling out from the centre, and all our strength was re- quired to resist them, lest we should be thrown upon the breakers. We passed with the rapidity of the wind, and in a short time were upon the smooth surface of the tide waters below. The sensations excited in descending these Cascades are of that peculiar character, which are best un- derstood by experience. The sensation of fear is no sooner awakened than it subsides before the power and magnifi- cence of the rolling surges, the circling vortices, and the roar- ing breakers. Let those whose dormant energies, either of body or mind, need arousing, try the navigation of the Columbia, and their powers will be invigorated for almost any future enterprise. Such is the fascinating power, I had almost said magic, of these scenes, that those who are accustomed to the employment, though far away from home and kindred, become attached to it, and are reluctant to abandon it for any other. Each time the scenery of these interesting Cascades is beheld, new wonders unfold them- selves. Niagara itself, if we except its unbroken fall of one hundred and fifty feet, cannot bear a comparison with the superior style of nature's works here. Nor are these things created merely to draw out momentary admiration. Science in very many of its departments, may find subjects for in- vestigation. While the ornithologist listens to the songsters of the forest, and in these enchanting solitudes, follows them with his eye as they dart from bough to bough, his attention is arrested by the noble and majestic, white headed eagle, as he takes his favourite perch upon the loftiest point of some leafless tree, or as he darts from thence upon his prey ; or his attention may be arrested by the daring fish-hawk in his rapid descent upon the finny tribe. An amusing occurrence took place in my view. A fish-hawk seized upon a fish of such magnitude, that the contest f^Nr a long time was doubtful, as the splashing water indicated, which should exchange its native element. The resistance was so great, that a disengagement wag de^goLod the best policy. 188 Here also the V itanist) while he forbears to ascend the lofty mountains, which for him present an aspect of too much dreariness, may retire into the narrow receding val- lejs, or wind his way over sonny hills in search of new genera of plants, or at least new species, with which to immortalize his name, and to add to the stores of his fa- vourite science. The geologist, while he admires the stupendous monu- ments of volcanic operations before him, may also find much to interest him in examining more minute formations. Along the rugged shores are scattered specimens of calce- dony, jasper, agate and cornelian. He may examine the cellules of the immense masses of amygdaloid ; the colum- nar basalt, and the mountains shooting up their denticula- ted forms and needle points. His attention will be drawn to the examinaiton of the lava, breccia, and trachyte ; and of dendrolites he will be interested in finding many. When he looks at the deep channel through which the Columbia iSver finds its onward way to the Pacific ocean, if he doubts the agency of God in forming the courses of the rivers, he may indulge his imagination in computing how long it has taken this river to wear down the immensely hard basalt a thousand feet ; and having ascertained how long it takes to wear any given depth, he may then make his mathematical conclusions, how much longer the process has been going on than the Mosaic account of the age of the world. Or to shorten the process, he may prove that some erratic comet has drawn its fiery tail along this course and melted down the rocks. But if he is a christian philosopher, while he admits second causes, he may look up to the great first Cause, and admire and adore ; and not regarding baseless theories, he may exclaim, " How wonderful are thy works, in wisdom hast thou made them all." As we passed out of the mountain country about the Cascades, we found the wide valley below so inundated, as to present the appearance of an inland sea. I arrived safe- ly at the fort, found my friends well, and exchanged kind congratulations. Sabbath, Jime 12th, T preached to the people of the fort ; and in the evening a third service, in wluch, as heretofore, an opportunity was given to those present to propose ques- tions on any subject of religion about which they wished in- UM m '■■I 184 formation. I was partionlarly gratified to find, that during my absence, public worship had been maintained, and that an effort had been made to bring tlie French Canadians to Httend upon religious instruction. They are assembled twice on the Habbath, and a portion of Scripture, and a sermon in French are read to them by Dr. McLaughlin. I was favoured with an opportunity to send to Sopelay the promised powder and balls, by Capt. Black, a gentleman of the Company, who was to leave Vancouver for his sta- tion, North of Fort Okanagan, in a lew days. tJune ] 4th, we took a water excursion in the steam-boat Beaver, (IJapt. Home, down the Columbia, to the confluence of the Western branch of the Multnomah ; up this river into the Willamette, and then into the middle branch of the Multnomah, and through it, into the Columbia, and back to the fort. All the low lands were overflowed with the annual freshet, and presented the appearance of an immense bay, extending far into the country. The day was pleasant and our company cheerful The novelty of a steam-boat on the Columbia, awakened a train of prospective reflections upon the probable chnnges that would take place in these remote regions, in a very few years. It was wholly an unthought of thing, when I first contemplated this enterprise, that I should find here this forerunner of commerce and businesa. The animation which prevailed was often sus- p^ 23 WBT MAIN STIIIT WHSTIR,N.Y. }4StO (71*) 173-4303 4^ 186 before the increasing power and numbers of white men; or whether enlightened and improved by their philanthropy, they shall arise in the scale of human existence, is a ques- tion, which at the present time is attracting attention, and inviting investigation. I entered on the work of explo- ring this field with no bias Or preconceived opinion, and from critical and personal observation, I hesitate not to say that I can see no reason existing in the nature of things, or in their present condition, which necessarily dooms the race to annihilation on the one hand, or on the other ne- cessarily makes them objects of apprehension, as the future hordes who shall in coming time, like the northern barba- rians of Roman days, be reserved as the scourge of an over- grown and decaying republic. If to do good be an object worthy of humanity or religion, I see not why a consistent and persevering attempt to raise a race of free-men from their depression, and to place them in the rank of intelligent men, be not an undertaking fraught with as much promise and encouragement, as it was in earlier days to raise our ancestors to their present elevation. In fiivour of this opin- ion, we have the docility of the Indians in every thing per- taining to their improvement ; in the sprightliuess of their youth and children ; and in the amiableness of their native tempers and dispositions among themselves. I take nothing of this upon testimony. In aU my intercourse with them, I MWf'witn only one exceptiony no angry or maktjolent passions in exercise in their Uitle communities. Why shall any look down upon the Indian with contempt, and doom his race to annihilation, and judge of the whole, by those who have learned the vices of White men, and had those vices stimulated and strengthened by the cupidity of those who have excited them ? Why shall not a redeeming influence be exerted to bring the Indians to an elevated condition, to which their independent and ambitions dispostions as- pire, and to which God, as a part of the family of man, designed them ? I have in several places made mention of the superior mildness of the climate West of the Rocky Mountains, and that the seasons are divided into the wet and dry ; the rainy season commencing about the first of November, and the and the dry about the first of May. ar 1«7 te men ; or ilanthropj, , is a ques- ntion, and of explo- inion, and ate not to ) of things, dooms the » other ne- the future »rn barba- )f an over- an object consistent men from intelligent h promise raise our this opin- hing per- is of their eir native e nothing h them, I t passions anj look is race to rho have se vices lose who influence )ndition, (ions as- of man, superior ins, and lie rainy wd the CHAPTER XXI. On the 18th of June, according to previous arrangements^ I took passage in the Steam-boat Beaver, for Fort George, to join the Barque Columbia, for the Sandwich Islands. We had a good passage down the river,- and anchored for the night a little above Tongue Point, and the next day arrived at the fort. I went on shore on the 20th, and in an excursion along the shores below, I found some very large petrified bivalve shell, embedded in calcareous sand-stone of the tertiary formation. They are very perfect, and have all the lustre of living shells ; the largest which I have as spe- cimens, measure longitudinally four inches and a half from the hinge, and five inches transversely, beautifully scalloped. For a considerable distance around the location of these shells, there is no appearance of volcanic action. These, with one turritella found in the mountains South-east of Vancouver, were the only petrified organic remains I saw West of the Rooky Mountains. On the 21st we dropped down to Chenook Bay, and anchored just above Cape Disappointment. Here, for the want of favourable wind and tide, we were detained until the 28th. While we continued here, I made several excur- sions on shore ; ascended the Cape which is probably about four hundred feet high, and from which a fine prospect of the Pacific and its shores is presented as far as the eye can reach. The shore is generally bold and rocky, furnishing no harbour near. The country around is rocky, and densely covered with forests, and the scenery is wild. Near the shore on the W^st end of the Cape, there is a large cave in the volcanic rocks, extending about one bundled and fifty feet long, and twenty feet high. It seems to be the haunt of wild bcMftsts. Across the Cape upon the West Bay were found the finest flavoured strawberries of any I ever tasted; and about the Cape, at different places, there were many of the new species of large yellow raspberry, which are far more inviting to the eye than to the taste. While we were detained here, our men belonging to the Columbia caught a large number of codfish. They taste 188 very mttoli like, and resemble those taken upon the banks of Newfoundland, exceptmg they are a little shorter. This is the first time they were known to exist in these waters ; the Indians knew nothing of them before, and eagerly took those we did not need. On the 25th, the bar being smooth, with only a light wind, though ahead, and the dde favooring, the Steam-boat weighed anchor, and put out to sea for a Northern voyage. She went over the bar finely, and oould have towed us over, but it being her first experiment, it was not thought ad- visable. On Tuesday, the 28th, the wind and tide were favourable for passing the bar, and we set sail at half past three in the afternoon. There was a heavy rolling sea; and every man at his post, one on each side of the ship constantly throwing the lead to take the sounding. Four fathoms and a half was the least, and this was little enough considering the heavy swell. The bar has a very bold termination ; for we passed from seven fathoms to no soimding, where the sea presented its dark blue. The land receded, and in a few hours it disappeared, and nothing was to be seen but one wide expanse of ocean. Our voyage to Ohau,* Sand- wich Islands, was attended with nothing remarkable, except- ing it was performed in much shorter time than usual, it being only rixteen days from the time we left the Columbia river, to our anchoring in the roads of Honolulu. We took our direct courae, and kept it without any variation, and with a few exceptions, without shortening a sail, the distance of two thousand five hundred miles. An almost entire unifonnity marked our progress, and excepting the common alternations of day and night, sunshine and clouds, nothing interrupted the monotony of the scene. On the morning of the 14th of July, land was announced. The islands of Bauu and Morakai were near, and as we passed them, we had a near view of the latter. It is not so mountainous as most of the others of the group, and pre- sented rather a sterile aspect. We soon after made Ohau, and passed on the East side around to the harbour of Ho- nolulu on the South. This harbour is the best and almost II * Pronounced Waahoo. m the banks of er. This 18 waters ; the agerly took mlj a light Steam-boat em vojage. ^ed us over, bought ad- ) favourable hree in the and every constantly ftthoms and considering nation; for where the t, and in a e seen but au,* Sand- )le, except- 1 usual, it Columbia We took ation, and le distance tost entire 3 common 8, nothing mounced. tnd as we t is not so and pre- ide Ohau, ur of Ho- ld almost the only good one in any of the groups of the Polynesian Islands. The entrance is somewhat intricate, and requires an experienced pilot to take ships in safely. Within the coral reefs, the water is suffioienUy deep for ships of almost any magnitude ; and this, with the long extended roads without the reefs which a£fords good anchorage, renders the port desirable, and the island in a commerdal point of view, the most important of any in this part of the Pacific ocean. We went on shore two o'clock in the afternoon, and I was invited by the Rev. H. Bingham to his house, where I met several of the other Missionaries, and felt much rejoiced to behold again a Christiau community. The heat of a vertical sun was very oppressive and en- ervating, and was it not for the refreshing effects of the daily North-Eiast trade-winds, it would be insupportable by a northern constitution. On Sabbath, July 17tb, I attended worship in the native church, and heard Rev. Mr. Bingham preach in the Hawaiian langpage to a very large assembly of natives, probably two thousand five hundred, who gave very good attention. They were all decently dressed ; whUe some of them were in the European mode, the most of them were dressed in their native costume, and made a good appear- ance. Their conduct and attention were very becoming, and many listened with deep interest. Madam Kinau, the Queen r^ent, and the Royal family were present ; and al- though it was easy to distinguish them from the common people, yet they made no ostentatious display of royalty. Their dress was rich, but plain, and they paid sober atten- tion to the worship of God. The performance of the singers was good, but there was not that melody in their voices which characterizes the Indians. The house of worship is large and commodious, one hundred and ninety teet long and sixty-two feet wide, built in the native style, a large frame, with the roof and sides covered with thatch. Oahu is the most Northern of the Sandwich islands, si- tuated in North latitude 21** 18' and in West longitude 158** 38'. Its greatest length is forty-five miles from Koka on the South-east to Kakana on the North-west. The greatest portion of the island is on the North-east of this ime. Its greatest breadth is twenty-eight miles from \ 4 190 1 Kahaku on the North to Laeloa (Barber's Point) on the South ; about four-fifths of the island is on the East of this line. The island is very mountainous ; the highest eminence is called Honahuanui, and is a little over four thousand feet. The Pari, at the upper end of the valley of Nuuanu, North of Honolulu, may be counted among the curiosities of the island ; principally on account of its being a part of the main road, or rather the only one to Keneohe. It is one thousand one hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, and six hundred feet nearly perpendicular. This is to be clambered up and down in passing from Honolulu to Keneohe, and to a stranger it is a fearful undertaking, it being necessary to have a native to assist in putting your feet into the crevices of the rocks, i^d yet the natives pass up and down with their calabash- es of poi, with their loads of melons, fish, and other com- modities, without any difficulty more than fatigue. Some years ago, in a war between Tamaehameha and the king of Oahu, the final battle was fought here which decided the fate of the island. The king of Oahu made a desperate struggle ; and one part of his routed army, more than three hundred, were pursued to this precipice, forced down, and almost all were dashed to pieces. On each side of this pass, needle pointed mountuns rise up two thousand feet, tbrming a narrow chasm, through which the North-east trade winds rush with great violence. Before you, at the North, you have a very pleasing view of the fertile valley of Kolou ; and beyond is a fine prospect of the bay and wide-spread ocean. The valley between the Pari and Honolulu is seven miles long ; the upper part of which is narrow and very picturesque. Interesting cas- cades are seen dashing down the almost perpendicular moun- tains, and the whole scenery is covered with fresh foliage. This was almost the only place where the cool and invigorating breezes gave me relief from the oppressive heat. The lower part of the valley is wide, and covered to a great extent with taro patches. Taro is a bulbous plant of the genus, arum, and is planted in hills upon patches of ground, so formed, as to be partially flooded with water, somewhat after the manner of cultivat- ing rice. In eight or ten months after setting the plants, it is fit for use. To prepare it for food, it is always necessary to roast it, to take out the pungency which is int) on the he East of ihe highest I over four le valley of ted among aoconnt of le only one and forty feet nearly d down in ranger it is ve a native r the rocks. r calabash- )ther com- le. imeha and tiere which ha made a rmy, more doe, forced ntains rise \, through t violence, ttgviewof i prospect f^ between apperpart isting cas- lar moun- ih foliage, cool and ssive heat, to a great is planted ) partially f cultivat- tie plants, 8 always which is m common to the genus, as fouhd in the wild turnip. It is frequently eaten for bread with no other preparation except roasting, or it is made into poi by pulverizing and making it into a stiff paste. The natives prefer the poi when soured by fermentation. East of this valley is another called Manoa, about five miles in length, running north from Diamond Hill. It is well watered by streams descending from the mountains, formed by showers of rain which frequentlv fall upon them, and which sometimes extend to the valleys and plains. Its fertile soil is well cultivated with sweet potatoes, taro, and melons. At the upper end, Kaahumanu, the late Queen regent, who died in 1832, had a house built for retirement from the bustle of Honolulu, and for devotion, near a beautiful cool grove of ohia and kukui trees,* on an eminence conunandii^ a view of the valley below. Near this dwelling, she caused a house to be buutfor the accom- modation of the Missionaries, when they should wish for rest, and to be refreshed with the invigorating air of the mountains. The evidences of her Christian character were convincing. Her piety was active. She travelled through all the islands, from time to time, to see that the people attended the means of religious instruction, and the schools ; and to reconmiend the reUgion of the Bible to all classes of her subjects. Her example as well as her authority, was powerful in suppressing intemperance, and the many vices which threatened the ruin of her country. Her influence was felt not only by her own' people, but also by foreigners who visited those islands. When I visited this spot of remembrances, the buildings were far gone to decay ; but not the cherished regard of her piety and philanthropy. This spot presented a very pleasing view of the high and precipitous mountains around on every side ; excepting the South, which is open, and exhibits the grandeur of the rolling ocean. The many cascades around upon the mountain sides, added to the interest of the scenery. Among the variety of shrubbery, we found the coffee tree with its fruit in various stages of *The Kukui tre« bean a nut as large as a black walnut, a string of which ia used for candles, and hence the tree is called the candle tree. nm 192 IV matority : the arrow root ; and the brake fern growing, in many instancea, to the height of twenty feet. From a bulb near the root is taken, what the natives call hapuu a sUky down, which makes excellent beds and cushions. Honolulu is situated on the South side of the island, on a bay of the same name, and is the capital and business- place of all the islands. The land around, and on which the village is located, is a dry barren, excepting on the North-west, which is moist and cultivated with taro patches, with some cocoa nut trees interspersed. The buildings generally are in the native style, thatched ; many are buDt with doiba walls after the Spanish manner on the coast of Mexico and Peru, that is, with large sun burnt bricks made about two feet long, eighteen inches wide, and ten inches thick. The clay is mixed with out straw to strengthen them, after the manner of the ancient Egyptians. Their enclosures are built in the same manner. There are several good buildings made of rock coral in English style, some of which are spacious and well finished. The village ocmtains about nine thousand^inhabitants, three hundred of whom are English and Ameriqans. Most of the commercial business and trade are carried on by foreigners, which is of large amount, increased by the rraort of whale-ships, fall and spring, for repairs and fresh supplies, particularly vegetables ; it is the place at which all other shipping touch wluch navigate this ocean from Europe and America in the Chinese and East India trade. This place is constantly growing in importance, and must continue to do so from its local advantages. Four miles South-east of Honolulu is the pleasant native village of Waititi, situated on the bay of the same name. It contains five or six hundred inhabitants, is situated in a beautiful grove of cocoa nut trees, which adds very much to its appearance and comfort. This place if the cultivation was proportioned to the richness of the soU, might be made one of the most delightful spots on the island. About two miles Elast of this village are the remains of an old heathen temple, in which human sacrifices were of- fered ; a part of the walls of the enclosure are still standing. Various methods were employed to obtain victims. One of which was to lay a tabu upon all the people in the whole region around, that no one for a certain period of time should go out of their dwellings, or make any fire in them, upon prowing, in rom a bulb iuu a silk^' idand, on bosineas- on which ing on the ro patchea, buildings y are buDt le coast of mt briokd e, and ten strengthen m. Their There are lish style, I'he village bondredof ommercial girhioh is of -ships, M >articidarly tping touch America in constantly io so from lant native one name, uated in a rery much cultivation Lt be made remains (^ s were of- 1 standing, ms. One the whole me should lem, upon 193 pain of death. If any violated the tabu, they were appre- hended and sacrificed to their idols. If they were unsuc- oesaful in obtaining victims in this way, they would send out men in a canoe, to range along between the coral reef and the shore, and to feign cUstress, and if any were decoyed out for their relief, they were apprehended and carried to the temple, and offered in sacrifice. It is a pleasing consideration, that the benign influence of the gospel has dispelled these bloody and cruel supersti- tions of heathenism. I had an opportunity of seeing an' old man who had been an high priest in these bloody rites. He has no hope that he is interested in the salvation of the gospel, but he said it is maitaif (good,) and that the Chris- tian religion is so firmly established in these islands, that their ancient idolatry can never again be revived. He sa- luted me with many alohas. Mr. Bingham gave him some account of my journey across the Rocky mountains, and the object. He said it was good, and that God was with me and preserved me. He said in their former religion, they were all ignorant — all was darkness, entire darkness, but now the light shines. He said, that when Captain Van- couver visited these islands, in the reign of Tamaha, he urged the king to renounce idolatry, and the king promised he would, when Christians would send firom the land of light, ^ minister to teach them in the right way. They waited until their king died without knowing the right way, and no one came — and none came until Mr. Bingham and his Associates in the year 1820. This old heathen priest gave np hia religion and his honours, and took Mr. B. by the hand on his first arrival, and called him brother, and has ever since been friendly to the Missionaries. His wife, whom I also saw, has a hope that she has experienced the saving power of the gospel. The only road, or any thing which deserves the name of a road in this island, is between Waititi and Honolulu. Fourteen miles West of Honolulu is Eva,* a village of considerable magnitude, but not very compact. It is situ- ated on Pearl river, at the head of a large lagoon, extend- ing several miles inland, and is surrounded with a fertile valley reaching twelve miles North, which is two-thirds of *Pronoanoed Ava. I. n 194 Ui the distance to Waialua. The highest elevation between these places is abont four hnndred feet, and is intersected in various places with deep ravines. Eva is the station which Rev. Artemus Bishop and wife occupy, and whose prospects of usefblness are encouraging. When I was there, the natives were engaged in building a substantial and commodious house of worship, and appeared to take a deep interest in the effort. In the North-west part of the island, is the village of Waialua, where Rev. John S. Emerson and wife are sta- tioned. The village is ntuated upon a wide-spread bay, which would furnish an excellent harbour for any shipping, if there was suffioiait water upon the bar at the entrance. The valley around is large and fertile, capable of being made very productive. Chi a Sabbath which I spent here, eight natives, six men and two women, were received into the communion of the church, who appeared very intelli- gent and serious, and who conducted with as much propri- ety as is seen in the most civilized parts of the world. I felt a sotis&otion in joining with th«se redeemed Heathen in the ordiaanee of the Lord's supper. Every part of di- vine service was conducted with Christian decorum. I was partiealarly pleased with the appearance of the native dea- con, who was dignified in his person, dressed in good taste, and very devotional in his behaviour. llie only remaining village of any considerable impor- tance, is Keneohe, where Rev. Benjamin W. Parker and wife are stationed. Tliis village is in the fertile valley of Kolou, near the shore of a pleasant bay, which would afford an excellent harbour if there was sufficient water at the entrance over the coral bar. This village is about four miles North of the Pari, and is the most cool and refreshing retreat I found upon the island. The basaltic mountain on the South, three thousand feet high, and nearly vertical ; and the North-east trade winds give a temperate atmos- phere, not found in any other part of the island sufficiently lew for a village. Mountains. The greatest part of the island is moun- tainous, two are of considerable magnitude. The largest, Koanahumanui, is on the East side, and runs parallel with the ocean ; the highest part of which is four thousand feet above the level of the sea. This range of mountains is without many cones, is very pointed, and has several 195 between tenected le station id whose m I was ibstantial to take a Tillage of 9 are sta- ead bay, shipping, entrance. of being }ent here, »ived into ry intelli- jh propri- nrorld. I Heathen art of di- n. I was Ative dea- ;ood taste, le impor- irker and valley of oh would t water at tbout four refreshing monntaui r vertical; te atmos- officiently is monn- Le largest, allel with isand feet intains is is several paris. At the great Pari, the upper end of Nnnana, the main chain tnrns to the West, and terminates towards Waialua. The North side of the range. West of the Pari, is very precipitous, having many spun projecting to the North, including deep, pit-like ravines. The other range is on the West part of the island oaUed Kaala, running North and South, separating Waianae on the West, from the valley of Eva on the East. The highest point is three thousand eight hundred and fifty feet. There are many conical hills of different magnitudes in various parts of the island, which evidently were ancient craters ; one six miles South-east of Honolulm, called Diamond HiU ; and another a short distance North of H. called Fort Hill. They are open and concave at the top, with high walls reeded down the sides, which appear to have been formed by streams of lava, and by the action of the water, cutting ravines. There is an abundance of lava and other volcanic productions about these hills. The salt lake, four miles West of H. is of the craterio form. It is a great curiosity, as well as source of trade. It undoubtedly has a connection with the ocean near which it is situated, by some subterraneous passage. Its depth is not known, being nearly filled with exceUont crystalized salt. The quantity is inmiense, and is taken out in large quantities for sale. The ajmearance of the lake is like being covered with ice, a little sunken below the snrfiice of the water. Geology. The geological formation of this island, and all the others in the Pacific which I saw, and concerning which I obtained information, is volcanic and coraline to a great extent. What some have supposed, is very much to be doubted, that these islands have been thrown up, in the first place, by internal fires, and then enlarged by cora- line admtions. There is too much argillaceous soil to favour the belief; and to say the least, the supposition is without the least evidence more than what theorizing men invent. Much of the soil is formed by disintegrated and decomposed lava. The reefs Iving off from the shores, and in some places immediately upon them, are coral. The coralines are divided into ancient and modem ; the latter still increasing. Between these formations is a volcanic deposit. The ancient coralines are found in many places forming the surface of the plains, elevated 196 •ome fix or eight feet above the preeent level of the wa. As the poljrpii which form condi never work above water, it is evident that these islands have been elevated by some subterranean, or submarine power, or the ocean is subsi- ding ; and as this recession of the ocean is seen in various parts of the world, in nearly, if not the same degree, is it not probable that the waters of the ocean are gradually di- minishing ? Of the modern coral, there are many grades, from the rock to the most beautiful kinds resembling trees and plants, and of various colours. The volcanic forma- tions do not differ materially from those in the Oregon Territory. Cellular lava is very common, often bordering upon pumice, and of various colours ; brick red, ash col- oured, orange, yellow, and green. No primitive rocks are found, nor any silicious sand; the sand upon the shores being formed of either disintegrated lava, scoria or coral. While I shall not attempt a minute enumeration of the productions of these islands, the following are some of the principal: viz. Cocoa-nut tree ; bread-fruit ; coa tree, which furnishes lumber nearly equal to mahogany ; hybis- cus, candle-nut tree, mulberry, fig tree, cotton tree of very tine quality; co£fee tree, grape vines, oranges, lemons, lime, pine apples, melons of superior quality, squashes, sugar cane, arrow root ; indigo plant, which grows finely without any care ; the gu&va, a fruit resembling mandrakes, but not 80 agreeable to the taste of those not accustomed to them ; taro, sweet and common potatoes, banana, a great variety of ferns ; a great variety of most beautiful flower- ing plants, such as the oriental lilac, eight different species of mimosa ; the pride of Barbadoes, several varieties of convolvulus, and mirabilis, passiflora, or passion flower ; roses, Spanish pink, Mexican pea, and many others of beautiful texture ; also garden vegetables of various sorts. The animals of these islands, when discovered by Cap- tain Cook were very few ; the most of those now found upon them haye been introduced since. There are now, the horse, the mule, neat cattle, goats, hogs, dogs, fowl, a few birds ; and among the few the crow and raven, which are common in almost all parts of the world, have not found their way here. There are but very few reptiles ; not any snakes ; but the green lizard is very common, and was in the days of the idolatry of the Islanders worshipped, I»7 and taoh is the inflnenoe of supendtion npon the human Qund, that the^r oan hardly dismiss all feelings of reverenot for tlds insigniticant reptile. If one comes into their dwel- lings, thejr choose to let it take its own departure, rather thim to molest it. The scorpion and centipede have within a very few years fonnd their way here by vessels. The musqnetoe was not known here until recently, and now they are numerous and very annoying. The government of these islands is absolute and heredi- tary, administered by the King, Queen, and Chiefs, whxMe will is the supreme law ; the common people are a nation of slaves. The lands belong to the government, and are leased to the people at high rents, and even then the peo- ple have no security that they shall enjoy the avails of their labour ; for beside the stipulated rents, the govern- ment make any additional demands they please, and the people are taught to obey without complaining. The per- aotu of the CUefs, are remarkable for their extraordinary size, towering quite above the height of the common peo- ple, and in corpulency preserving corresponding dimen- sions. The King secures his house and person by life- guards. Very frequently on a Saturday morning, the Queen regent, attended by her train and servants in eques- trian style, visits her garden some two miles from Honolulu. Their appearance is Hue, and they are well skilled in horse- manship. Her ordinary mode of riding in the street is in a small, low-wheel carriage drawn by twenty servants. The Sandwich islanders, or kanakas, as the comm«n peo- ple are called, have less activity of body and mind than the Indians of our continent, and yet a phrenologist would say that their idtellectual powers are well developed. In their present political condition, they are not expected to be otherwise than indolent and improvident. In their dresi^, mode of living, and habitations generally, they have made but little advance upon their days of heathenism ; some in the interior, especially, wearing little more clothing than their maro, and having their dwellings in caverns in vol- canic rocks. This, however, is not true of many ; for the Chiefs, and some of the people, have good houses, dress in good fashion, and live comfortably. The King, Queen regent, and Chiefs gave a tea-party, to which, with a few others, I had the honor to be invited. They were dressed richly, and in good taste ; their table was splendidly arrayed l2 198 I J if '; iii ill with silver plate and china ; the entertainment was both judiciously and tastefully arranged and prepared, and all the etiquette and ceremony of such occasions was observed. The conversation was cheerful and iuteiligent, without fri- volity, and nothing occurred embarrassing^ to any one. At a suitable early hour, we were invited into a saloon well furnished, where, after a performance of music, both vocal and instrumental, the Queen proposed that 'prayer should conclude our agreeable visit ; which was done, and the company retired. 1 have seen but few parties in Christain America conducted more on the principles of rationality and religion. The population of these islands has been decreasing ever since an acquaintance has been made with them. Captain Cook estimated the people to be 400,000. The present popidation is about I JO thousand. A variety of causes have conspired to bring about this declension, and yet no one so prominent above the rest, as wholly to satisfy enqui- ry. It is acknowledged by all observers, and it has become evident to the government itself, that a change of things in the internal structure of their national affairs, is neces- sary to the prosperity of the people. During my stay at Oahu, the heads of the nation had frequent meetings to discuss the subject of reform and improvement, and to ndopt some new mode of administration, which will give to the people the privileges of freemen, and thereby stimu- late them to industry. To effect this, the lands must be distributed among the people ; a more equal mode of tax- ation must be adopted ; industry must be encouraged, and progressive prosperity will follow in train. The perpetuity of the independence of tliis nation and with it their existence is very problematical. A disposition to possess these islands, has evidently been manifested by foreign powers. Whether the paw of the lion, or the tal- ons of the eagle, shall first make them its prey, or whether they shall be mutual checks upon each other, and thus pro- long the life of this feeble nation, is not known. The manner in which the King and Chiefs are often treated by the officers of foreign nations, the insults they often meet with, would not pass with impunity from a more powerful people. In fair and honourable uegociations, regard is had to mutual rights, but here foreigners assume the style of ]99 vas both and all >b8erved. thout firi- one. At loon well )th vocal r should and the hristain itionality sing ever Captain e present )f causes d yet no ify enqui- s become of things is neces- iy stay at tetings to b, and to will give yy stimu- must be e of tax- iged, and tion and isposition 'ested by p the tai- • whether thus pro- n. The eated hy ten meet powerful rd is had style of dictation ; " you shall, and you shall not ;" — and assertions are made of things existing in the laws and practices of England and America, which neither government would tolerate. They feel incompetent to contend with naval strength, and therefore they submit to indignities from which their feelings revolt. r visited the seamen's chapel and preached several times for Rev. Mr. Diell. While there are often several hundred seamen in the port of Honolulu, there are frequently very few attendants on the regular services of the chapel. Rev. Mr. Diell, their worthy chaplain, is, however, indefatigable in his labours through the week, visiting sailors on ship board, and wherever he can find them, endeavouring to promote their spiritual good. Some conversions have crowned his efiforts. On the occasion of the funeral of an infant of the Prin- cess, whose husband is Leleiohoku alias Wm. Pitt, I ^i8ited the burial place of the king and royal fan\ily. This is a stone building of rock coral, of the common siee and struc- ture of the houses of the village, and situated amongst them, having nothing particularly distinguishable except an outward signal, by which is understood the number and rank of the dead within. They are encased first in lead, secured from the admission of air, and then deposited in coffins of elegant workmanship, ornamented with silver or brass plate, and covered with rich silk velvet or damask of crimson. Here sleep the remains of Rihoriho, and Kame- hamalu, who died on a visit to England, aad several others laying in state ; while in the same tomb, are interred a number of other members of the royal family. The -Missionaries of the American Board of Commis- sioners for Foreign Missions in these islands, have done much to elevate the character of the population, .by teach- ing and preaching the truths of Christianity, by schools, where the first rudiments of education are taught, by the press, and a translation of the entire bible ; they have ex- erted a salutary influence upon the morals of the whole nation, and raised a monument to the power and excellence of the gospel of Jesus Christ. They have also laid, instru- mentally, a broad foundation for the political, and social, and religious improvement of that people, unless thwarted > «l mmmm'mmmm 200 by the interference and opposition of foreigners, and for the future and unending happiness of many redeemed souls in the world to come. I had frequent opportunities of wit- nessing the effects of their labours in the evidences of the moral renovation of these once idolaters, and of meeting with them in their great congregation on the Sabbath. ||' ''i CHAPTER XXII. From July to November, no vessel departed from the island direct for the United States, and after being detained about five months, waiting an opportunity to return, I engaged a passage in the Phoenix, Allyn, from New Lon- don, and embarKed, December 17th. The ship was built for the China trade, of four hundred and ten tons, manned with twenty-eight persons, besides five passengers. The pilot boat left us well out at sea, at nine in the morn- ing, our course South-west. On the morning of the 21 at, we encountered a strong wind, which in the afternoon had increased so much, that we had to put two reefs in the top sails ; and a squall split our jib and sprung our foremast. I had no opportunity or disposition to enjoy the grandeur of the rolling ocean, being confined to the cabin by sea sickness. Our ship was engaged in the whaling business, and I was furnished with an opportunity of seeing the experiment, once, of taking a whale. The thing has often been described, but the novelty of the manoeuvre interested me. The experienced and slalftil whalemen dispose of the dangerous process, with the tactics of their profession, in a manner much beyond my conceptions before witnessing it ; and the monster of the deep, though mighty in his strength, is made to submit to inferior power, and to con- tribute largely to illuminate our evenings at home. There are said to be thirty thousand men employed in this busi- ness in the Pacific, while only about four hundred are en- gaged in diffusing the light of life through the dark places of the earth. January, 12th, 1837. Through the whole of to-day 201 we had strong gales from N. N. E. Our top-sails were close reefed, — split our main top-sail. Headed to the E. close on the wind. Very had sea — not ahle to take any observation of our latitude or longitude. These gales con- tinued on the 13th, until almost every sail was taken in, and we lay to on the wind. The last part of the day was more moderate, and we headed South. By observation taken to-day, our latitude was 14* 47' South. Sabbath 15th. The winds subsided, and the weather was warm. In the morning we came near Tetaroa, a small island of the Society group. It is low, rising but little above the level of the sea, thinly inhabited, and cov- ered, in parts, with groves of the cocoa-nut tree. Like all the islands of this ocean which I have seen, it is surroun- ded with coral reefs, laying off at a little distance from the shore, and upon which the sea constantly breaks. In the afternoon we approached the harbour of Papeeti, at the island of Tahiti. The pilot came off to us, and made an effort to get the ship in, but did not succeed, the wind being too light, and we had to bear off for the night. Monday the 16th, we got safely into the harbour, where we found the Daniel Webster, Pierson, from Sag harbour ; on board of which were Rev. W. Richards and family, passengers for the United States. We continued in this port four days, during which time I made several excursions about the island, and became acquainted with the English Missionaries, of whose suc- cessfiil labours I have often heard and read ; the Rev. Messrs. Wilson, Pritchard, and Darling, and their familes. ITiey appear happy in their work, and devoted to it. The Christian religion is the only religion acknowledged in these islands, and its influence is universally apparent. Besides preaching on the Sabbath, the Missionaries have religious service on other days of the week. At sun-rise every morning they have a public prayer meeting. They are doing much by their schools and the press ; and most of the people can read. The performances of the natives in vocal music pleased me, their voices being very soft and musical, though less cultivated than the Sandwich island- ers. Their personal appearance, complexion, language and dress much the same as those. Their advances in the arts and agriculture are less than might be expected of them, but in a climate where so many fruits vegetate sponta« ll ■-^M 202 neonAy, the necessity of cultivation is less imperious. While the harbour is not as good as that of Oahu, less is done bv way of wharfing, or otherwise to facilitate business, or aid in repairing the shipping which visit this island. A good public road has been commenced to extend round the island ; but it is now neglected, and all the bridges are broken down. The government here is much the same as in the Sand- wich ismnds ; but in some respects more free and systema- tized. Their judiciary is well organized, and justice is tolerably well administered. Their legislative body is composed of the Queen, Governors, Chiefs, and two re- presentatives from each district ,of the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo ; the laws when framed are canvassed by the peo- ple, and if approved, receive the Queen's signature. The young Queen Pomare is of very prepossessing appearance, talented, and has decision of character ; but her views of civilization are not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau. The American consul of these islands, resides at Papeeti ; he is a Dutchman, and as he informed me, a native of Antwerp. His English is hardly intelligible, and his know- ledge of the duties of his office is yet to be acquired. The islands of Tahiti and Eimeo like the other large islands of the Pacific are volcanic and coraline. They are mountainous, many of which are high and steep, and many of the valleys steep and narrow, extending far into the interior. To a considerable extent the soil is rich and productive; oranges and all other tropical fruits being abundant, and requiring little labour or care. Such is the indolence of the inhabitants, that they cultivate little be- sides sugar-cane and a few vegetables. These islands are well supplied with forests, in which are several kinds of wood equal in value, for cabinet work, to mahogany. Although there are many pleasant and inviting things in these islands, yet they come much short of the Paradise, which some journalists have described. The heat most of the year is very oppressive. I would not fidl to mention the kind hospitality of Rev. G. Pritchard and family, and an agreeable excursion I made to Point Venui«, the Eastern-most port of the island, which is uncommonly delightful ; and the pleasure I had in taking tea in the fanuly of Rev. Mr. Wilson. During my short stay, the Queen and royal family of a 203 neighbouring island, paid a visit of friendship to Tahiti. This afforded me the very desirable opportunity of remark- ing the manners and customs of the people. A public feast was given in honour of the rojal visitant ; and the day was ushered in by firing rusty guns, of which they have a very few. The morning until ten o'clock was occupied in collecting together their cocoa-nuts, bananas, baked hogs, &c. Many were out to purchase calico scarfa of two or three yards in length to wear in the procession. A very large procession formed, the women taking the lead, and the men following in order. A female with an infant in her arms led the van. This was explained to me as done in honour of mothers ; for here as well as at the Sandwich islands, women are regarded as in all respects on a par with men. All were well attired in European style, their heads adorned tastefully with garlands of most beautiful tropical flowers, with which their sea-girt isle abounds in profusion. After taking in single file, a long and circuitous march, they arrived at their feasting bower, under a grove of cocoa-nut, bread-fruit and orange trees, where near the centre, with an infant, sat the royal visitor ; and each Tahitian as they passed, threw down at her feet their scarfs or some other present. It was the pleasure of the queen, however, not long to retain all these tokens of honour ; for ^e seemed happy in generously giving them to others. This is con- sidered one of their most joyful holidays, and was managed without noise, confusion, or any apparent infraction of the rules of propriety. It must be recollected that this is a temperance island ; all traffic in ardent spirits being pro- hibited by law. On the morning of Saturday 21st January, we lefl the harbour of Tahiti with a light wind, and as we sailed around Eimeo, its mountains, with their densly wooded tops and precipitous sides, appeared in full prospect. Chi this island there is a high school for the children of the Mission- ary families of the several islands. We proceeded with a favourable wind until the 30th, when our latitude was 30° 27' South, and longitude 153" 10 West. I was here much gratified to witness the inter- esting phenomenon of a water spout. It first became visi- ble to us about half a mile distant as it arose, and at that distance we had no apprehensions of danger from it, and yet it was sufiioiently near to give a distinct view. It com- 204 menced in a small, dark, and nearly perpendicular column, enlar^ng its diameter as it rose, until it reached the region of the clouds, when apparently feeling the influence of the wind, it passed obliquely to the South-west. It continued in view some time, but as we were proceeding on our course, it gradually disappeared. On the 5th, we had strong gales from the West. Put two reefs in the top sails, and took in the mizen top-sail, and handed the main-sail. The sea was very heavy. On the 9th, the wind was more moderate ; and while the men were engaged in spearing porpoises, one of them fell over- board from the bow, and went directly under the ship, and came up under her stem. The life buoy was thrown over to him, but being an indifferent swimmer he was long in his efforts to seize it. By lowering the boat, and rounding about the ship, he was recovered on board much exhausted, and almost overcome with the cold. Hundreds are daily, by a great variety of occurrences taken from the world, and the certain knowledge awakens but feeble sensations in our bosoms ; but a solitary case of individual danger and suffering which we witness, arouses all our anxieties and Mympathies, and we are grateful when relieved by the safety of the sufferer. On the 16th and 17th, the gale was tremendous. Wc were in latitude about 47° South, and 120» West longitude. With nearly every sail taken in, we could only run before the wind, and the waves were constantly breaking in over our bulwarks. Such was the roaring of the wind and brealdng waves, that it ^^as difficult for the orders of the Captain to be heard, upon his loudest voice, from midship, forward or afl:. The wind blew tons of water into the air, and scattered them into a thousand sprays. I never had such evidence of the power of wind and water, nor of the admirable manner the ship could live in such a gale. She would roll upon the waves, and plunge and rise again upon the mountain billows. The whole scene was fraught with magnificence and grandeur. It was a great favour that we had a courageous and experienced captain ; and a sober, active, and obedient crew ; and above all, the protection of God. Two men were constantly at the wheel, selected from our best steersmen. We shipped a great quantity of water, and on the night of the 17th, the fore deck scarcely at any time, had less than a foot or two feet of water, the 20^ waves breaking over iaiter than the water had time to pass through the scuppers. Two pumps were at work a large portion of the tmie to keep the ship clear, so much was constantlv findmg its way down the dosed hatches And other leakages of the deck. The two men at each pump, laboured so forcibly, that it was necessary to be reUeved by others every three minutes. I reflected oh the condition of those who were not prepared for death, and that even to a Christian a quiet death-bed would be preferable to leav- ing the world in such a scene of confusion. But we were spared in great kindness, and the following morning the^ wind began to abate. Captain AUyn, who had been into most of the principal seas, and around both of the great Capes, said he never, except in a typhoon, which he encountered on the Japan coast, saw any gale which equalled this. ' : The gales continued with frequent squalls of hail and run until the 28th, when we found we were driven to the 590 of South latitude, and 77o West longitude. This was farther South of Cape Horn than we wished to go, and the weather was cold and thick, the thermometer ranging be- tween 41<> and 41^ for several days. On the 1st of March we saw for the first time after leaving Tahiti, a sail to the windward heading South-west, but were unable to speak her. It was very pleasant to find our latitude lessening in our homeward course, though we were not up with the Cape until the 3rd of March. During the gales, and espe- cially in stormy weather, our vessel was very frequently visited by a bird, which navigators call the noddy, and which is easily taken by the hand. It is of the tern genus, twelve inches long, slenderly formed ; it» plumage is a dark sooty brown, excepting the top of its head, which is dusky wlute. The albatross was constantly flying about us, regardless of wind and waves. Our men caught seve- ral of them with a hook, the heads of wMch, when standing upon the deck, were four feet high ; their aler measurement was ten feet. Although they are generally of a brown colour, yet in the region of Cape Horn, they are from a mixture of brown and white, to an almost entire white. They are the largest class of the feathered race. We had for a long time an opportunity of observing the Magellan clouds, which are three in number, two luminous and one black, about thirty d agrees distant from each K BCB 206 other, and are fished in their relative tdtnations as are the fixed stare. Their altitude above the Southern hcnrizon lessens to the beholder, according as his latitude diminishes, as he proceeds North. Their undefined forms are about five degrees in diameter. The luminous ones undoubt- edly are formed by clusters of stars, so numerous and contiguous, and so distant, as only to give a glimmering light like luminous clouds, which gives them their name ; and the black one is very probably the entire absence of all light. I gazed at these night after night with wonder and admiration. It seemed to me, that looking at the dark one, was looking beyond created nature into infinite space. Gales occurrM occasionally afler we doubled Cape Horn, but most of the time was pleasant, and the winds favour- able, until the 27th of March in Soutii latitude 2do 27', and West longitude 28<> 34', the wind came around to the North, and continued to blow in a Northerly direction ten days, which retarded our progress, and carried us off our course to the Bast, until we were brought into 20° West longitude, where we changed our course West by North. On the first of April we spoke an East Indiaman. She was a very large, fine-loolang ship, about eight hundred tons, well filled with men, women and children, who prob- ably were passengers for New Holland. This was the first ship we had spoken after the Spartan, near the line on the other side of the continent. It is difficult to imagine how pleasant it is to see and speak a ship after having been months at sea. A few hours after, we saw another East Indiaman, but did not speak her. By falling in with these ships, we found we were so near Africa, that we were in the track of ships from Europe to the Cape of Good Hope. The same day we buried in the great deep, Benjamin Hamilton, a seaman. It was a solemn transaction to com- mit one of our fellow creatures to a watery grave. The colours were raised half mast, the corpse, with weights at the feet, was laid upon a plank at the gangway, — all hands were gathered around ; and after some remarks suggested by the occasion, and a prayer, the plank was shoved over the side of the ship, and the dead disappeared to be seen no more. On the 2d, we made Martin Vass islands, which are five in number, composed wholly of volcanic rocks, without any soil ; some of them are cones, shooting up four or five 207 hundred feet. Two are very email and needle pointed. Thay are all SQ{«eoipitoiui, and the sea constantly breal^ig against them, that there is no landing. Their forms are fantastical ; one of them having the appearance of a forti- ficatiop with bastionSi about which are needle points resembling men on guard. They are in 20® 81' South latitude, and 28P 38' West longitude. By changing our course more Westerly, we made Trinidad off agunst St. Roque, which is an island of connderable size, and in latitude 20o 28', and loujptude 29o 5'. Near evening we were fifteen miles from it, and wishing to land in the morning, we took in sail, and lay off for the night. Some Portuguese once settled upon it, but it is so difficult of access, tluit they abandoned it, and it is now without any inhabitantSi "ft u.'i'i ■^''■^o-; -.mvi i)(r)' ■- On the morning of the dd^ W« ran down to within three miles of the island, and manned three boats to go on shore ; but finding no plfioe firee from brealsers, we gave up the attempt, caught a few fish near the shwes, and after beinff much annoyed with flies which came off to us, we returned to the ship, and with a favourable breeze pursued our course. This island is also volcanic, has an iron-bound shore, and is mountainous, the highest part of which is about fifteen hundred, or two thousand feet It is a place of resort for multitudes of birds, and sea fowl, some of which are large. I had an opportunity to see, but not to examine, the man- of-war hawk. They are numerous here, and while they are handsome, they are also ravenous, always taking their prey upon the wing. There were many of the perfectly sUky white species of the T«m, which hovered over as with great tameness, as though they wished to form an acquaintance with us, not suspecting any hostility. Most of our nights as well as days for a long time were clear, and the stars were seen wiili remarkable brightness. What has been described by odiers of evenings at sea, in the Southern hemisphere, I had an opportuni^ of observing with admiration. The richest colours of red, orange, and yellow, spreading over the Western sky aft;er the setting sun, and often over the whole concave of heaven. No pencil of art can imitate the tints and hues which blend in softness*over this scene of beauty. Nature's pencil only can lay on these delicate shades, and add to it the brilliancy, eVer varying, of so much richness and splendour. -v* In the deep seas we did not see many fish; of the few which oaine onder oar obeervationy the dorado, or aa o(Hn- monly called the dolphin, and the pilot fish excelled in the beauty of thmr colours. The former, when taken npon deck, constantly changed its coloor from the bright pnr^ to Hub. gold, the blniah green, and to the silver white. Mid theae roreading but into vanishing shades. The pilot fish iBaqnwy beaatifiil, but is sinffolar in the choice of company and iemployment; al^ys bemg fonnd with the shark, and oondvctinff him to his prey, fiKua whidh it derives its name. The flymg fish is a onnoeity, famished with the means of bdoapying air and water, but finds no friend in either ; parsaed by tha dolphin and some other fish it swjms with all speed antil wearied, and then takes to fiight in the air, where the albatross and the tropic bird hover over to make it their prey. In their flight they often ML apon the decks ' of ships, where num shows them no matey. On the 19th of jA^iril we passed the Eqaator. For a few days we had calms, or only light winds with showers. The heat was very intense, and cabns under these circom- stanees are more to be dreaded than gales. But we were much &voured, and soon found ourselves in North latitude, where it was very interesting to see the North star once more, though only just above the horizon. All objects at sea are considered worthy of notice, and amoi^ these the gulf weed which we saw in great abunobmce before we came to the gulf stream. We entered and passed the stream on the 14th of May, in 36^ 37' North latitude; and though a rough sea is generally expected in the stream, yet we had a very pleasant time. The current is at the rate of three miles an hour, and the temperature seven degrees warmer than the adjacent water. Chi Ae 17th of May, at three in the afternoon, we were cheered with the cry fixun the mast head, ** Land ho ! ahead*" It proved to be Block island. We came in sight of the light house in the evening, but too late to atteciipt to get into new London before morning, and. therefore lay off for the night. In the morning we found ourselves among various shipping bound to different ports. Passed Montauk Point, and drew near to New London, where the sight of the city, the shipping in the harbour, the country around, and the isdands dressed in green, conspired to excite tu:^, 209 pleasing admiration, and eapeoiall/ to one so long conver- sant with heathen oonntries and a wide expanse of ocean. Passed up the Thames to the oitvi and I rejoiced to land once more upon Christian and civilized shoresi mv native land, "where my best friends and kindred dwell." In taking leave of the Phoenix, I felt it due to the captain and crew to say, that I received from them every kmd atten- tion I could wish, and being a temperance ship, I did not hear a profane word from any, while on board. We had public worship during the voyage on the Sabbath, and the word of God was blessed, as there was reason to believe, to the saving conversion of some souls. I found kind friends in New London, and after arranging my business, directed my way to Ithaca, where I arrived on the 23rd of May, after an absence of more than two years and two months, and having journeyed twenty-eight thousand miles. THE END. W, Porteous, Printer, 18, Wioklow-atreet, Dublin.