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:.-*fr^ji'i. iftt^H*i«^^te<s-^?:f^l^«ali 
 
 
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 REALITY 
 
 VERSUS 
 
 ROMANCE 
 
 —IN- 
 
 SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA 
 
 AN ACCOINT OK 
 
 A .lOl'HNKV ACROSS THK CONTINKNT FROM HKNdl'KLI.A ON 
 
 THK WKST THROrOH I5IKK, (iANCI'KI-LA. J5AROTSK. THK 
 
 KALIHARI DKSKRT. MASIION A LAND. MANICA, OOR 
 
 OXCO/A. NYASA, THK SHIRK HlfJH LANDS. 
 
 TO THK MOl'TH OF THK ZAMRKSI 
 
 ON THK KAST COAST. 
 
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 JAMES JOHNSTON, M.D. 
 
 Willi HITV-ONK Kl l.l.-l'AliK riHiTlP(l|IAVI ICK ll.M Sill AI'll INS KIKIM I'IKl Kilill AI'lls in 
 IIIK AI IlKlH AM) MAI' IMUCArlXCi lidlTK Til A VKKSKII. 
 
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 I8ii3. 
 
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REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE IN 
 SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 ■'^.tf'jgap^su'gSiwt?? 
 
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 i^L i*i;l?MS;' 
 
 
 .ia?«;5 
 
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 I 
 
 s* 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 THE author of this uavrativo of African explora- 
 tion has been governed }>y two considerations only 
 in his work: first, the obtaining of absolutely correct 
 int'ornijition concerning that portion of the " Dark Con- 
 tinent " wliich was the field of his investigation ; se<'()nd, 
 the presentation of that knowledge in these pages with 
 rigid adlierence to the truth. In every instan<'e where 
 disputed questions, whether commercial, political, or re- 
 ligious, are touched upon, he has endeavored to verify his 
 statements by quoting froju the writings or sayings of 
 men well known to the reading world. Entirely i[id<'- 
 pendent of all denominational, political, or party influ- 
 ences, with no interests to conciliate or ends to serve 
 beyond the acquisition of indubitable facts that would 
 be of value to the world, he has naturally reached re-' 
 suits in some regards conflicting with representations 
 made by certain preceding travelers, who have either 
 been less painstaking in the attainment ot precise 
 knowledge or — for various reasons — more unable or 
 disinclined to make known, with accuracy, what they 
 
 5 
 
.. JH'.^ui* '■,JI?fmJk%0'^ 
 
 t! 
 
 () 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 liad learned. It is not his province or desire to rriti- 
 eise either tlio motliods or motives of others, but he is 
 morally convineod that where the results of his ol)ser- 
 vations differ from the eonclusions at which they have 
 arrived, he is rififht. 
 
 Fitting out his expedition himself, indehtetl to no 
 ji^overnment, eommta-eial company, or society for its 
 etiuipment, and responsible to no one but himself for 
 its course or control, he was altogether untrammeled 
 in his work, free from time limitations, and at full 
 lilu'rty to tell the truth, as ho saw it. Those a<lvan- 
 tafjjes but few African explorers have, it must b<' ad- 
 mitte«l, hitherto enjoyed. 
 
 Durinjij a period of twenty months he crossed Soutii 
 Central Africa, traveling? four thousand five hundred 
 miles mostly on foot, and alone so far as a white com- 
 piiniou is concerned — passing through numerous hostile 
 and savage tribes, traversing areas hitherto reported 
 too pestilential for exploration, surmounting natui'al 
 obstacles which have been represented as insurmount- 
 able, and penetrating regions where no white man had 
 ever gone before. In all that long journey he n»?ver 
 once found himself prompted to fire a shot in anger, or 
 compelled to do so in self-defense against a human ene- 
 my ; while he can say what perhaps no other man who 
 has crossed Africa can — that of the many native carri- 
 ers who traveled with him he did not lose one by death. 
 Ho went among the fiei'cest tribes, not as a conqueror 
 
 
 W^ 
 
'^fmM^fi 
 
 I 
 
 FRhF/tCH. 7 
 
 ami rnnster, but as a friond, and Booking to leavo a trail 
 iM'hind him not of blood and hate, but of i)oa<*o and 
 good-will. 
 
 Inspin'd iu tho inooption of his undertaking by a 
 bi'lief that black men from Jamaica, by n'ason of their 
 more ready adaptability to climatic conditions and snp- 
 posablo racial sympathy, (;ould be advantageously em- 
 ployed for tho Christianization and civilization of tho 
 African savage tribes, he took the only practical means 
 for conclusively determining the probable practicability 
 of the design, by thoroughly informing himself upon 
 the conditions under which tln^v would have to live and 
 la])or. This he could only do by personal experience^ 
 for the assumedly authoritative repoi'ts of pi'ecedent 
 travelers were nuich too contradii^tory of on«' another 
 ui)on important matters, too meager in essential details, 
 and too restricted in their fiehl of exploration, to be ac- 
 cepted as information. 
 
 In jtursuance of his purpose he not only made a care- 
 ful study of the natives tribes in tho vast belt sele(4ed 
 ];y him for exploration, but critically investigated tho 
 I'esources of tho country, its availability for develop- 
 ment, and the obstacles — where any existed — in the 
 way of its reclamation from savagery. 
 
 IIo saw with the eyes of the agriculturist, the geolo- 
 gist, the naturalist, the hunter, the trader, and the phy- 
 sician, as well as those of the missionary, subordinating 
 all personal bias and preconceptions to an impartial 
 
8 
 
 «*fi«>it at colhH.tiiiif eorm.f ,i . , 
 
 V..IUO ,0 «„ „.,,„ ,,„. "^'■^"«""-"'» ™n„„t but ,„ „,. 
 
 Hi 
 
 iL. 
 
 M-. 
 
 >-=-^er 
 
 ¥Sif5SSS£l^ 
 
 ^~?ill€iSsi?;li!^ 
 
 'J»^S 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CIIAPTEU I. 
 
 FROM t.ON'DOX TO <'ATAMHKM,.\. 
 
 PA(IK 
 
 Early promptinpfH. — .FuiiiHicu. — Wliitc nicii in tlic tropics. — PurpnspH 
 of tin- cxpi'ilitiou. — Ih'iirty Hiipport. — Dt'parfiirc lor Africii. — liis- 
 b()u llurbor. — "Stuck fust." — The tlctcctivc ciiiiicni. — Tiic Portii- 
 j^uoso. — On board tliy "Cazi'iif^o." — Kcbils. — St. Tliyiip>. — Mnrrcii 
 rock.— St. Tlionu'.— Kiiltinda.— St. Paul dc Loanda. — Hisliop Tay- Q 
 lor's Mission. — Sclf-siipportint; missions. — Circuinstanccs idtcr 
 cases. — Tho liibcrian Missi(ni. — I'iyoon Kiif^lisli. — A (fiiitt inn i/iio.^ •'^^_ 
 Stowiiij; coal. — Arrival at Hcnf^iicla. — An evil climate. — Adobe. — '"■• 
 OatamltellH. — Delays. — Tho railway. — Native trade. — Slave cara- 
 vans. — Bail sanitation 1.7 ' 
 
 9 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 t 
 
 PROM OATAMBKLI.A TO KWANJl'Ll'Ll'. 
 
 Toward tho rising sun. — A waterless country. — A eoM night. — Native 
 foot-tracks. — The Esupwa Pass. — Bail water. — In the Cisangi coun- 
 try. — An outbreak in canij). — ForagiuR. — Extremes of temperature. 
 — Lost ill tho forest. — In a game-i)it. — Signals of distress. — Safe in 
 camp. — On the great plateau. — Slave shackles. — Native graves. — 
 In dangers oft. — The river Kove. — Utalama. — Indiscretion. — An un- 
 timely end. — Bailundu. — f'ilumi. — The American mission. — Ekwi- 
 kwi interviewed. — Trial for witchcraft. — Pre])aring for war. — Social 
 laws. — I)ojnestic ri-lationships. — Farewell *o Cilumi. — Artificial bee- 
 hives. — Carriers. — Arrival at Kwanjululu 
 
 
 
 3G 
 
-*•« fi^. * % 
 
 10 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 KWANJULVLU AND KOMONDONGO. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 All Eii{;li«li mission. — Tlic illusion dispelled. — Garanganze. — Five 
 yi'urs' work. — Their own superstition best. — Echot\s of Service. — Veg- 
 etable products. — Visit to Komondongo. — The lato war. — Cause of 
 the rui)ture. — The peacemaker. — Burning villages. — Capture of 
 Chindunduma. — The mission station. — Adversities. — Chronic bum- 
 mers. — Mush and beans. — Courting i)rivation8 55 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 FROM CISAMBA TO KUTl'NDA. 
 
 Decide to change my roiite. — Cisamba. — Collecting carriers. — A sur- 
 gical operation. — White man's fetich. — Strange comestibles. — Lu- 
 ra-lu-ra-lu. — Native obsequies. — Ocimbombo. — Bacchanalian ca- 
 rousals. — "«.)n show" at Kapoko. — Tlie cornet scare. — "Putting on 
 side." — Sanumbello. — Court speeches. — '-'A nation cf the unem- 
 ployed." — Reflections. — Trouble ahead. — A lucky shot. — Prescrib- 
 ing I'lir tlie sick. — Fourteen days' delay. — Rumors of war. — Native 
 idiosyncrasies. — By order of the " doctors." — Agricultural prospects. 
 — A quiet week. — White ants. — Kundundu. — Desertions. — A kind- 
 hearted chief G7 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 AMONG THE OANOl'ELLIANS. 
 
 My caravan complete. — Faio to face with a lion. — A thunderstorm. — 
 Crossing the Kukema. — Nothing for dinner. — A grand concert. — A 
 l)romising lield. — Petty rulers. — Namby-pamby. — Lady missicn- 
 arit's. — Trained nm-ses. — A wild chief. — Ganguellians. — Hairdress- 
 ing extraordinary. — Fetich charms. — A line country. — Iron-snielt- 
 iug. — Palavers and pigs. — The Kwanza River. — A wrinkle in river- 
 crossing. — Native dread of PiUroj)eans. — A carved stockade. — A 
 strange phenomenon. — Fever in the camp. — Limjiing into camp. — 
 In the wilderness. — Rubber regions. — The honey-bird. — Picturesque 
 huts 
 
 88 
 
 iL 
 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 11 
 
 cr.-Veg. 
 Cause of 
 ;>turc of 
 lie bum- 
 
 PAOE 
 
 55 
 
 -A sur- 
 8.— Lu- 
 iin oa- 
 thig on 
 
 uiiem- 
 osei'ib- 
 Viitivo 
 pects. 
 
 kiiul- 
 
 G7 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FROM VOWEIA'TWl-ONJAMBA TO THE HUNTER'S PARADISE. 
 
 l>AOE 
 
 Five hnmlrinl natives in our eamp. — Daily menu. — Scarcity of food. — 
 Horils of buffalo. — The oiubanda-horu. — Soldier ants. — liostilo na- 
 (jves. — Peace by stratagem. — A inagnauimous promise. — In j>u)iii 
 natitntlibiui. — Caterpillar stew. — Making an impression.— A whole- 
 some awe. — Down with fever. — Extemporized mortars. — A dark 
 outlook. — Carriers on strike. — A complimentary dance. — Hogues 
 all of them. — Nurse and cook by turns. — Swamp villages. — Fail to 
 control the elements. — E.xorcising the si)irits. — Struggles in the 
 marshes. — Sparsity of villages. — Game in abundance. — Charged by 
 a buffalo. — Has the Bihean a god? — Our rain-maker. — Diviners. — 
 Medicine-men. — Meat aii<l to spare. — A hunter's paradise 109 
 
 CHAPTER VH. 
 
 ARRIVAL IN THE BAROTSE VALLEY. 
 
 Mutiny in eamp. — Bnrotse natives. — Milk for the first time. — The 
 Zambesi at last. — Reception by King Lewanika. — " Yo sho, yo sho, 
 yo sho!" — Salutations. — The royal residence. — "Fail not, at you- 
 l)eiil ! " — Marotse huts. — A native service. — Lewariika's ambition. 
 — Building the Nalikwanda. — Paying off carriers. — I'rcsented with 
 an ox. — Dining with royalty. — The burden of his heart. — British 
 Protectorate. — Thieves and robbers. — Monsieur CoMlard's letter. — 
 The British South African Company. — Concession-hunting. — An 
 emphatic protest. — A letter from King Lewanika 134 
 
 ni. — 
 —A 
 sicu- 
 I'ess- 
 lelt- 
 vor- 
 ~A 
 ). — 
 que 
 
 88 
 
 CHAPTER Vni. 
 
 LIFE IN THE BAROTSE VALLEY. 
 
 The heroic Frenchman. — A model mission station. — Blighted jdans. — 
 A touching story. — Thrilling tales. — Truth first. — Missionary tidings. 
 — Koreans, — Amazing statements. — Futile hopes. — Priniitive M<'th- 
 odist i>arty. — H(mu> committees. — Virtinilly a pi'isoner. — Marotsi 
 handicrafts. — In tiie lekhotlda. — "A sound of revelry by night." — A 
 perpetual vapor-batii. — A bloodtliirsty (lueen. — Display of fireworks. 
 
 ' ■ n »ii .kMiijimjLij jBg 
 
I, 
 
 12 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 
 PAOK 
 
 — Nc Year's Day. — First native wedding on the Zambesi. — Amused 
 skepticism. — Ladies take a back seat.^Magie-lantern exhibition. — 
 Silence reigns. — The Masiiukulumbwe. — Taking their measure 1;>2 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FROM SEFl'LA TO SESHEKE. 
 
 The Sefida Canal. — Haste peculiar to white men. — To be thrown to tlie 
 crocodiles. — Preparing for the river journey. — Parting injunctions. 
 — A cloud of voracious mosquitoes. — Waist-deep in the swamp. — 
 Afloat on the Zambesi. — Ancestral worship. — An interview with 
 Makwai. — The omande shell. — The gi-eat fish-eagle. — ("amjjed at 
 Senanga. — More portentous game. — Memories of the Georgian Bay. 
 — Charming suri'oundings. — A pleasure trip. — In danger of an up- 
 set. — Dragging canoes overland. — Lion stories. — The Falls of (Jonya. 
 — Beautiful cascades. — Veldt schoons. — In the rapids. — The aro- 
 matic mopani. — A fruitless chase. — A gorgeous sunset. — The grace- 
 ful zebra 177 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 FROM SESIIEKE TO BAMANOWATO. 
 
 At Sesheke. — Working under difficulties. — Indifference of the natives. 
 — Pay for '-working book." — Not quite their equal. — Capabilities of 
 the soil. — ^[onsieur Goy's letter. — Draining and irrigation. — Canoes 
 capsized. — Kazungula. — The French mission. — Isolation and loneli- 
 ness. — Premonitions of trouble.— Wholesale desertions. — Lost bear- 
 ings. — A monopolist. — Tropical scenery. — Victoria Falls. — For hours 
 we stand gazing. — The great fissure. — Baboons. — Batokaland. — 
 Return to Kazungula. — Preparations for crossing the desert. — The 
 tsetse-fly belt. — Pandamatenka. — Rough road. — A broken dessel- 
 boom. — A night among lions. — Program of a day. — No water. — 
 Thirst, thirst, thirst !— Bushmen 198 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 PROM PALACHWE TO FORT VICTORIA. 
 
 Palachwe. — A terrible epidemic. — Malaria. — Semi-civilization. — Phys- 
 ically losing gi'ound. — Khama and his country. — Total prohibition. 
 
 iill 
 
 : -^ .: -:^^-^n^MMmj^^ 
 
 
W^ jfc, * % 
 
 I 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 13 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . — Amused 
 liihitioii. — 
 iisure I;12 
 
 iwn to the 
 juiu'tioiis. 
 swimip. — 
 iow witli 
 iiiiiKMl at 
 ^ian Bay. 
 >t' an iij»- 
 >f (loiiya. 
 riie aro- 
 ic grace- 
 
 177 
 
 natives, 
 lities of 
 I'aiioes 
 loiieli- 
 t bcar- 
 r liotirs 
 and. — 
 —The 
 l'»ssel- 
 iter. — 
 
 198 
 
 
 i 
 
 Phys- 
 tioii. 
 
 I»AOE 
 
 TIjc Mangwato as a race. — Makalakas. — Darker phases of African 
 
 lift'. — MfKenzie and Hepburn. — The Matebele. — On the trek again. 
 — Mv West Indians return. — A monotonous hindseajje. — Fort Mae- 
 loiitsie. — Hyenas and jaekals. — Multiim hi jxirnt. — Tuli townsliip. — 
 " Show your passport." — A licensed prospector. — Mealies and pump- 
 kiiiH. — Lobengula's impis. — Matipi's kraal. — Whiskey sliops. — Kyii- 
 dicates "<lead broke." — White men's graves. — " Providential Pass." 
 — A tragic story. — Zimbabwe. — An ancient strongliold. — Fort Vic- 
 toria. — A hundred miles of sand 228 
 
 CHAPTER Xn. 
 
 PROM FORT VICTORIA TO IXVAMAOAMBE. 
 
 Fort Charter. — A deserted village. — Chartered companies. — Salisbury 
 at last ! — The wealth of Mashonaland. — A vegetable market. — The 
 argument of the upper ten. — British intluence. — Missions in Mashon- 
 aland. — A lion-liunt. — The parson scores heavily. — By Tete or Sena, 
 which? — Fantastic kopjies. — Termite mounds. — A narrow escai)e. — 
 Policemen. — ''Tie liim up till morning." — Umtali. — Massikussi. — 
 Among the Portuguese. — A friend in need. — War in the Hiiinbi coun- 
 try. — Bartering with the natives for food. — Abandoned wagons. — A 
 primitive dug-out. — Courteous natives. — Wading the Kulumadzi. — 
 (Jorongoza Mountain. — I>igging for water. — Spontaneous con.'jus- 
 tion. — Baobabs. — Lovely sweet oranges 259 
 
 CHAPTER Xm. 
 
 FROM SENA TO BLANTYRE. 
 
 Hiver craft. — On the Sliir^'. — The Wissmann expedition. — Landed at 
 Chiromo. — Trouble with Her Majesty's customs. — " What is to-day?" 
 — The chief of ilbewe. — A defenseless position. — Blantyre. — Might 
 is right. — Misguided men. — Boycotted. — Wild liallucinations. — 
 ('o>u-ting a martyr's death. — Dr. Ellinwood speaks. — Abortive asceti- 
 cism. — Faith cure. — Cheap missionaries, — Poor economy. — A for- 
 • ■ign tramp ^H' 
 
 ^WIT^Z 
 
t-fi 
 
 14 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 PROM NYA8A TO CHINDE. 
 
 PAOK 
 
 Bush fires. — A strong current and head wind. — Myriads of red ants. — 
 Tampans. — On the back of a hippo. — Lake Nyasa. — Livingstonia. 
 — A storm on the lake. — Anchored at Bandawe. — The Free Church 
 Mission. — " Black ivory." — " Longed to enslave them." — Not solicit- 
 ing commiseration. — Ungrateful. — Lip "improvers." — " Muavi " or- 
 deal. — Fertile hills of Angoniland. — Liberty of conscience. — Baobab 
 Island. — A choral service. — Return to Blantyre. — Bound for Chinde. 
 — The Indian Ocean 305 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 , A RETROSPECT. 
 
 A summary. — Jamaicans. — Missionaries wanted. — French mission 
 stands alone. — Testimony in favor of West Indian assistants. — Un- 
 occupied fields. — Sparse population. — Interpreters. — Medical mis- 
 sions. — Extravagant waste of ability. — Native doctors. — Conclusion. 325 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Equipment. — Tents versus huts. — Clothing. — Firearms. — Barter goods. 
 — Commissariat. — Medicine. — Tabloids. — Fever. — Insomnia. — Wa- 
 ter. — Coolers. — Light. — Photography 339 
 
 UU: 
 
 
o' red ants. — 
 Livingstonia. 
 Free Church 
 —Not solicit- 
 ' Muavi " or- 
 ice.— Baobab 
 li for Chinde. 
 
 PAOK 
 
 305 
 
 eh mission 
 itants. — Un- 
 edical mis- 
 Conclusion. 325 
 
 rter goods, 
 inia.— Wa- 
 
 339 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS.* 
 
 Frontispiece. 
 
 Catambella Facitii) page 22 
 
 Olombingo Rock Mountains 28 
 
 Stockaded Village, Cisamba 34 
 
 Camp at Cisamba 39 
 
 BiHEAN POMBIEROS (HEADMEN) 45 
 
 Building Mission House, Cisamba 50 
 
 Native Women, Cisamba 50 
 
 "Women Pounding Corn CI 
 
 Ganouellian Village OO 
 
 Group of Ganguellians 72 
 
 Crossing the Quitu 78 
 
 Expedition at Kangamba 86 
 
 Lewanika Holding Court 94 
 
 Marotsi Salutations 103 
 
 Monsieur Coillard and Native Boys 109 
 
 Lewanika in War Dress 114 
 
 Mission Station, Sefula 121 
 
 Madame Coillard's Grave 127 
 
 Primitive Methodist Party 134 
 
 Lewanika's Band 140 
 
 Wild Batoka Warriors 14G 
 
 Macwai, Queen op Barotse, and Slave-girls 151 
 
 Marotsi Pastimes 150 
 
 Native Wedding, Sepula 162 
 
 * These illustrations are covered by copyrigiit. All rights reserved. 
 
 IS 
 
 w:^.^^'^ 
 
I 
 
 I ! 
 
 'J \ 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 i 
 
 IG ILLUSTR/ITIONS. 
 
 MAstiCKULrMBWK NATIVES Facing pngc 167 
 
 On TiiK Zamhksi 172 
 
 Falls of (^onya 176 
 
 lIousKsnoK Falls ok Gonva 181 
 
 Zamhksi Boatmkn 187 
 
 Mission Station, 8ksiikkk 193 
 
 KAzrNOL'LA Mission Station 19{» 
 
 VicToKiA Falls (Wkstkun Catauact) 205 
 
 VicTouiA Falls (Nkar the ("enter) 210 
 
 AuKi-PT Bend and Profile Cliff, Zambesi 216 
 
 1'axdamatenka 220 
 
 Khama, Chief of Bamanowato 226 
 
 Water-cakt — Man(;wato 234 
 
 (.'rossinu the lundi 240 
 
 Zimbabwe Riixs 247 
 
 BrsHMEN's DUAWINOS 253 
 
 Puo MILL FOR Brickmakino, Blantyre 260 
 
 Anooxi Slave Warriors 260 
 
 Gitori' OF Yaos (SiiiRft Hiumlands) 276 
 
 LiVINOSTONIA 284 
 
 Graves at Livinostonia 29(» 
 
 Mission Station, Bandawe 298 
 
 Native Women, Bandawe 304 
 
 Native Women, Likoma 310 
 
 Nyasa Fleet, Likoma 315 
 
 Katl'noa (Livingstone's Old SEitv^UfT) and uis Wives 323 
 
 
 54 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 \\Ui 
 
 % 
 
 :,lu: 
 
 -:¥> 
 
 iiiiL 
 
 
Facing pnyv Ifi- 
 
 172 
 
 176 
 
 181 
 
 187 
 
 193 
 
 19!> 
 
 205 
 
 210 
 
 216 
 
 220 
 
 220 
 
 234 
 
 240 
 
 247 
 
 •■...... 203 
 
 200 
 
 20!) 
 
 270 
 
 284 
 
 2J)0 
 
 21>8 
 
 304 
 
 310 
 
 315 
 
 .... 323 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE IN 
 SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FROM LONDON TO CATAMBELLA. 
 
 Marly proinptinRS. — .Tnnmicii. — White men in tho tropics. — Piirposcs ol' 
 tilt' cxiM'clition. — Hearty supjiort. — ])t'partiin> for At'rii-a. — lii^lioii llar- 
 lii,,.. — "Stuck fasi." — Till' (U'toetivo camera. — Tlie J'oi'tu;;iiese.^ — On 
 hoartl till' "t'azeii^o." — Rebels. — St. Tliyajjo. — BaiTcii rock. — St. Tiioine. 
 — Kaliiiula. — St. I'aiil de Loaiiila. — Bishop Taylor's Mission. — Selt'-siip- 
 imrtiii;; missions. — ( 'ircumstances alter cases. — The Liherian Mission.— 
 !'i<,'e()n Knf,'lish. — A qiiiil jiro (/iin. — Stowin;^ coal. — Arrival at I>enj;nela. 
 — .\n evil climate. — Atlobe.— ( 'utamlieila. — Delays. — The railway. — Na- 
 tive trade. — Slave caravans. — Bad sniiitutiou. 
 
 IX early l)oyhoo(I a det'i> iiitoivst "svas eroated in my 
 luiud rt'fjjardiug Africa and its people by readini:: 
 the lif«! and travels of Kobert Moffat. Later on the 
 writinjjfs of Dr. Livin*?stone, the story of his lonely aii<l 
 traffic death, and witnessing? his funeral in 1874, addiMJ 
 fresh stimulus to my purpose of vi.'^iting some day the 
 *' Dark Continent." I wished to see for myself tho 
 actual condition of the Afrii,'an, that I might be the 
 l)etter qualified to plead his cause among English- 
 speaking people, who have, particularly during this 
 ••entury, proven themselves above all other nations 
 
 17 
 
I ' 
 
 IS RF./tUTY yP.RSUS ROMANCIi. 
 
 tli«i pioiiooi's of civiliztitiou, (Jhristittuity, and hunitino 
 f^ovcniiiH'nt. 
 
 Ill-lu'ulth (lobaiTod mo from tli(» imm«'(luit(» realiza- 
 tion of my liopcH, and symi>toms of pulmonary troubh? 
 '•ompclh'd mo, toward tlin ond of 1874, to seek a njor«* 
 j^^'uial climate. This I found in Jamaica, West Indies, 
 where the bulk of tiio population, thouj^h not African, 
 are at least of African des«*ent, and there I lived and 
 laboretl at my profession until 1K{M). 
 
 My i)liysical strenjjjth beinjjc th<'n completely restored, 
 tile work under my charge firndy established and con- 
 ducted by a competent staif of assistants, and the lonjjj- 
 ('herished desin; to trav(»l in no way abated, I tVilt that 
 the time ha<l come when I could leav<5 my work for a 
 y«'JU' or two. 
 
 ^Meantime, accounts were freqiUMitly lioinf? received 
 from Central Africa of tlu; privations, har<lshii)S. an<l 
 sutl;erinji:s of those who wer<5 endeavoring to lea<l the 
 van of li^ht and knowledges into the dark interior — 
 obtaining little or no aid or sympathy from th(^ natives, 
 foi" whose benefit they had risked so mu(;h. Ti'eading 
 th(! <'lay, cutting the sticks and grass, and with their 
 own hands buihling the liuml)l(5 altodes that are to b(^ 
 their homes — white men cannot, in the tropics, do this 
 with impunity and live. The painful fact is all too 
 i'onclusive from tlus fearful death-rate among those who 
 have attemptinl it on the Congo, the West ( -oast, and 
 elsewhere. 
 
 On looking around among the young men of Jajuaica 
 connected with our mission, I was strongly impressed 
 with the idea that, having been brought up and trained 
 amid surroundinirs th<' most favorable to fitting: them 
 
 iii^iJL. 
 
 
 .J» 
 
PURPOSE OF i:xpf:nmoN. 
 
 19 
 
 iml huuiuno 
 
 into reuliza- 
 lary trouble 
 i<'<'k a niorc 
 
 Jot At'rienn, 
 I lived and 
 
 ly n 'Stored, 
 d and oon- 
 d tlio lonjr- 
 I f<!lt tliat 
 work for a 
 
 ^ roc(MV(;d 
 ■ships, and 
 i load tilt' 
 intcrioi- — 
 
 <' nativos, 
 
 i^i'oadin^ 
 
 ^'itli tlicir 
 
 ai'f to l)f^ 
 
 S <lo this 
 
 s all too 
 
 loso who 
 
 >ast, and 
 
 •laniaica 
 ipn'sscd 
 trained 
 1^' theni 
 
 :t 
 
 4 
 
 for usefulness in their futlierland, as nieeluinies, ])uild- 
 <'rs, and plant<'rs, by such servi(!es (eouhl tiieir natural 
 lack of "stick-at-it-iveness" and l)ackl)one h«; over- 
 come) they niif^ht relieve the wliite man of nmnual toil, 
 permitting him to devote his time to the translation 
 and teaching of the ;uitive languages. 
 
 To pr*^ this schome to the test was now my intention, 
 and although a dark enough i)rogram was presente<l of 
 the probable dangers to be «'ncountered, in the form of 
 niiilarial climates, deadly fevers, wild bt'asts, fatigue, 
 hunger, and thirst, volunteers to accompany me were 
 not hu'king, of Avhoni I accepted six likely young fel- 
 lows. On the llth of Fcila-uary, 1H!)1, I sailed for Eng- 
 laiul, whence, as also from S<'ol|{ind, the ITnited States, 
 and Canada, I re<'eivod the hearti<'st support and finan- 
 cial aid toward th<» outfits and i»assages C)f the colored 
 men; but I preferrcMl to defray my own expenses. 
 
 The next few weeks wen^ spent mostly in London, 
 selecting and purchasing the vari«'d pai'aphernalia and 
 ('(piipment required for camp life in a " foodlcss and 
 shopless lan<l." Furthf n I will enumerate, for the 
 information of those who .nay intend to travel through 
 similar regions, not so nuich of what articles my outfit 
 consisted, but rather a list of those; things actual ex- 
 perience proved to be the most useful. Very many 
 accessories are recommen<h'd l>v outfitters because 
 other travelers have included them in their kits, which 
 on the march are found to Ih^ not only useless, ]»ut 
 burdensome, and at last must l)e left behind. Nor are 
 the counsels of those in the field always infallil)le, as 
 many of them s<'ttle down within easy acc(>ss of the 
 coast and know but little of tla; requirenwuts for long 
 
 -rr?" 
 
I!l:!( 
 
 20 
 
 RI.AUIY yUKSUS KOMANCI: 
 
 jounioy.s throu^'li tli«^ int«'rior. A j^ood rul(! to follow 
 is to lake nothing that oii<3 cuii pos.sihly do without, as 
 the carri*'!' (lilllciilty iiicrcaHciH yoar by y«'ar, uikI tlu5 
 proj^rcHs of Ji <'aruvuii is oftou in iuv«'i'H«' ratio to tlio 
 aiiiomit of its haj^^a^o. " I'iciiic ])asl«'ts," "jiiiicrufk 
 notions," and ^^ tiiidlinu in /xirro^ must ^ivc phu'c to 
 the more iiM|>ortant w«'ll-rli(js<'n stores of food, nicdi- 
 cincs, and medical <*omforts, on wlii<di tlie health ami 
 even the lif(f of the European will in a gnsat measure 
 
 depend. 
 
 l*repa rat ions completed, tlie 17th of April found the 
 Jamaica men and myself at W'atei'loo Station, sur- 
 rounded ()y a host of kind friends who had come to 
 hid us (Jodspeed and a linal farewell, A few hoiu's 
 more hi-ou^ht us alon<^side the .steamshij) '"I'rojan," as 
 she j.iy in Southampton <lo<'ks. Amid the hustle and 
 confusion of emharkin^ the ship's hell i-in<;s — thesij^nal 
 that tJK! time for <lepar1ure has arrivech The ^an^^way 
 is drawn up, the hawsers slipped, an<l tlu^ vessel stands 
 out to sea. 
 
 ]>eii<;uela, on the west coast of Africa, is our (h'sti- 
 nation l»y wat<'r. And why Iienj,niela if (.'hielly he- 
 cause it has the reputation of afTordinj^ facilities for 
 ohtainin^ cai-riers, slav(; rout(.'S for the int(!rior starting 
 from that i>oiiit. 
 
 The short I'un to Lisl>on pjave no exf)erience woi-thy 
 of note. A ji'ood ship, pheasant conii)any, and a smooth 
 sea — this told, the rest of our life on hoar<l a mail 
 steamer can easily l)e inui^ined hy any one; wlio has 
 crossed the Atlantic; an<l in these <lays, who has not ? 
 
 On the L'Oth we enter the mouth of the Ta^us — 
 LishoM Ilarhor. A charminjjc view of the city pi-esents 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 •i 
 
 I 
 
 
IHH rOh'/l'dUhSl:. 
 
 21 
 
 «' to follow 
 without, as 
 »', «ni«l til,, 
 itio to ili(. 
 "jiincrark 
 
 «' I>lu('«' to 
 '>0(|, MM'di- 
 
 K'Jilth and 
 t iJicasuro 
 
 f'oniid tlio 
 tioii, sill-. 
 
 I f'OlM*' fo 
 
 'W lioiirs 
 '■ojjin," as 
 iistic and 
 'K'si^'nal 
 ;'''iii<;\vay 
 <'I stands 
 
 III- dcsfi- 
 i<'/ly !)('- 
 itics for 
 ■stalling 
 
 woj-tliy 
 sniootli 
 <i )nail 
 lio has 
 s not { 
 a^nis— 
 '■•'sonts 
 
 itsflf as w«' stcani up the vivf-r. Tht> wrath'-i- is all that 
 could Im' dcsin'd, fn-sh hut halniy; air, a dflii^htful 
 rhantc*' fi'oiM thf Ith-ak winds and dri/zlin;;' I'ains wu 
 Ifl'l in Southampton. MiN- after mil*' th*- city unfolds 
 It.'fon' US — a jrraiid |»anoraniii of splendid huildin^jjs, 
 roNt-riuf^ the lonj^ i'an;;e of hills on which it is Kuilt, 
 risin;^ i'aid\ upon raid<, tier upon tier, from the water's 
 ed;;e to the highest summits, with a sky overhea<l heau- 
 tifidly eleai- and Mue. Anythini,' more attractive or 
 nioi'f! pictin'es(|uc I have ne\er seen, in any conntiy. 
 Here we must land and traiishij) to a l'ortUi;ues(! 
 steamer, as the "Trojan" d()es not call at West Coast 
 ports; and we are transferred to the craid\y-l(»okin;]; 
 craft of a tendci* that is to take ns ashore. 'I'lii'ce hours 
 ai'c spent in this tuh, for the tide is low and she ;^ets 
 stuck fast in the nuid. Some of the passen;?ers sue<;est 
 chartc'i'in;^ a couple of the fishei-nien's punts that are 
 puHin;^ past us; hut this idea is voted down as undig- 
 nified, and we UKM'kly wait for the tui-n of the tide. 
 
 At last W(3 reach the landin;^-stae;e — a flijxht of stone 
 stej»s h;adin^ uj) to th" jna.i^nificent scpiai-e of Ten-eii-o 
 <lo paeo, with its <i;rand Ai'co da Rua, A<;usta, an eques- 
 trian statue of Kin*;: .Joseph I. in the centei-. 
 
 Steppiuf^ ashore, detective camei'a, in hand, hopin«; to 
 <?et some sna[) shots on objects of intei'cst, a <liminutivo 
 customs ofHe<'r denninds to know what the hctx con- 
 tains; i)ut my limited knowletli^e of Poj'tuijcuese fails 
 to conviueo him that \ have nothini^ in it to peddle, 
 when it oecurrs to m<' to s1k)W him tlie reflection 
 of Kin<i^ .Toscftli on the "finder." This is conclusive, 
 and I pass on to the center of the city. The sceno 
 fhan<::es. Fewer a<ljectives will satisfy us now than 
 
'•<r«M»«»k>fl* 
 
 oo 
 
 h'l.l/ITY ;7/t'S7S h'OM/INCi:. 
 
 wIm'Ii (l«'s«Til»iii;;' Li.sl»«»ii Iroiii lln' stoiiiKT's dt'ck. 
 Surely distjiiHM- Init nirliaiiliiH'iit to the view: the 
 otherwise line edillees )ii"e ill-ke|it jiml dirty, with a 
 P'lierjil (»Mt-llt-ell)0\v.s look, liiiilehillg the iiiiijority of 
 the iiihiii)it<'iiits. 
 
 lillt whlit Jl lot of little people! A stay of several 
 (lays ill this the I'ortiijiiiese ejipitjil did not reiiio\e our 
 lirst iiiipressioii, that, if lor nothing: else, it is at least 
 reiiiarkahle for its undersized eili/ens. lint we niiisl 
 in»t I'eniiirk on this, as already we see their eves (lash 
 and lists eleiiehed iiienaein<^ly when the word " lOn^^lish" 
 is whispered in their presenee. 
 
 The injiniier of dress is distiiietly Spanish, and of 
 a t\p< — espeeially ainoiij; the working; (-lasses — made 
 fjiiniliar to us l»y ('lark's eot ton-reel jiietiires (»f the 
 hull (i;;ht. (lay nnd loud colors predominate (.-veiy- 
 wliei'e, iiiid on everything. 
 
 Our stejimer, the " ( 'fi/en;;(»," in wlii<'h we li<»pe to 
 s!mI for Iien;iiie|ji, is now ill the river, and we emitark, 
 only to li'arii, howe\er, tliid the ^-overiinieiit has ordered 
 her detention for three days heyoiid the advertised 
 date of sfiiliiiir, as a niimher of jtolitieal jirisoners who 
 lijive l»een eoiieeriied ill th > Inte revolutionary riots in 
 Oporto are to l»e sent down to the West Coast. .Mudi 
 aj^aiiist our will, we must yield to the delny. 1Mie 
 time passes, and (tii the fourth day we observe l)ar;;es 
 hein^ tu^^jj^ed towiird us crowded with soldiers, who 
 with fi.xed h.-iyouets surround the prisoners — a mot lev 
 crew. The former lo(d\ like a mixture of the veriest 
 riff-r.'ilT of half a dozen different compaiiii'S of militia — 
 a perfect medley of shapes and sizes: round shoulders, 
 ])OW le<jjs, and unwashed; scarcely a man standing five 
 
 ;# 
 
 
'tjM' t(» 
 
 TIm' 
 
 who 
 
 lollcy 
 
 'I'it'st 
 
 ti;i— 
 
 (I»'l-s, 
 
 five 
 
 f^^:,.^- 
 
■3^:»a^^'.. i.^ .i«*^^iSjr>..■ ^* •■ »«»*4J*i«hii1^>|i«:ia*«2fiiMK**t 
 
 t I 
 
 fiir. 
 
 w . ..v;;" iy i! iB8i' '. t..w/wii>! > W 
 
 •tMJV.r.'s 
 
 '^ - ' i." ' ..' ' . ' !V < " ■ ■ii» .! i .i |i* v ^ ; wi T-t*^ 
 
 1 
 
Sr. THY^GO. 
 
 23 
 
 feet eight among them. The majority were smoking 
 cigarettes as they came alongside. 
 
 The prisoners seemed jolly enough, hob-nobbing with 
 the " Soldados," shaking hands and embracing all round 
 as they parted ; while several had brought their man- 
 dolins and guitars, with which to wile away the tedium 
 of the years they anticip-ted spending in exile. After 
 a great deal of fuss and no little hilarity, th(»y an* got 
 on board, about a hundred in all; and now that they 
 feel themselves free, some brass and reed instruments 
 are produced, and we are regaled with selections of 
 reiniblican music. 
 
 The next port of call, St. Thyago, we reach in six 
 days. Still no (Extraordinary incidents to relate; the 
 usual monotonous round of eating, reading, talking, 
 and sleeping goes on, with an occasional game of 
 (punts. It may be of interest to epicui'es if w*^ men- 
 tion of what the cuisine a la Portuguese consists. Tlic 
 dinner menu i)ermits of no variation, but may be 
 summed up thus; Seven courses of nu^it or fowl; 
 s\V(H'ts, dessert, and cotfee, with almost total absti- 
 nence from vegetables of any kind. The light tal)le 
 wine " Vinho tinto" is supjtlied ad //7>., but, to the 
 criMlit of the Portuguese, it nmst In^ acknowledged that 
 they are certainly a temperate p(EOple as compared with 
 those of more nortluTU climes, for not once during IIk^ 
 voyage did we see spirits used, nor any one the least 
 inebriated. 
 
 The small island of St. Thyago belongs to Portugal, 
 and, judging from i'ts appearance, we would say it is 
 not lik(»ly to be cov(»t(Hl by any other nation. The 
 town is built on an (Muinence some two hundred feet 
 
■*-?Ki*'-*sag«.f*- »»* AM 
 
 ■1 
 
 124 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 abovo soa-levol; it lias a square and tliroo "troets run- 
 niiiU' parallel with one another, and a pv.pnlation of 
 about throe thousand. How they livtj is a mystery, 
 for both hill and plain present a (h'oary expanse of bar- 
 ren rock and sand, destitute of even a traee of veji:eta- 
 tion, with the exeeption of liere and then; a hollow 
 Avlu'i'e a few parehed-lookinm' cocoanut pahns struggle 
 for existence. 
 
 "We visit the niarketplaee, expecting that samples 
 of whatever th«! island pro<luces will be se«'n there. 
 And it is so: a few baskets of beans, some tobacco, 
 and scores of beggars, all extending their dirty hands 
 at once as soon as we appear within the gates. The 
 people are mostly African, of the ordinary type; a few 
 are Portuguese; and there are three Englishmen, eni- 
 l»loyees of the Cable Company. 
 
 ( )n th(^ Stli of ]\ray we arrive at St. Thome, a beau- 
 tiful island, also a Portuguese possession. The town 
 I'esembles somewhat parts on the; north side of Ja- 
 maica. Here, unlike St. Thvago, the seenerv is verv 
 rich ; the hills are clad to th(i top with Inxuriant ver- 
 dure, cocoanut and date palms, bread-fruit and avocada 
 pears, puapuas and bananas. This is accounted foi- 
 prolmbly by the fact that the island is situated within 
 the rain l)elt — its southern end being on the equator. 
 
 AVe call(Ml at Kabinda on the 11th, where wo took 
 on forty-two natives to work cargo. This was our 
 first glimpse of the African maiidand, which is here 
 very flat and uninteresting, with nothing tropical in 
 its appearance. 
 
 Next day wo reached St. Paul do Loanda, the chief 
 of the Portuguese settlements on the West Coast. We 
 
 biMlll^>?^1l>^:.ii: ^I'^I^Si^linlii 
 
57. PAUL DE LOANDA. 
 
 25 
 
 had a tedious delay hero of several days, on account of 
 the many packages to be slowly transf«MTed to lifjhtin's, 
 and as slowly towed ashore. No o\w is in a hurry. 
 Time seeins to be of no valuta to these jx'oplt'. They 
 I'everse the old ada<;'e and ''^ never <l() to-day what can 
 be put off till to-morrow." The; city is said to have u 
 population of six thousand, made up of about four 
 hundred Portuguese, the rest n<'groes. 
 
 Livingston!* arrived here with his six ^Fakalolo in 
 j\[ay, l.^')4, and spent long weeks on a siek-bed at the 
 iiouse of his friend, the British commissioner for tlie 
 Suppression of the Slave Trade. He traveled from 
 Kurnuian, through tlu' Kalahari Destrt with its shad(>- 
 less glare, the deep gloom of forests, and drenching 
 rains, contracting an intermittent fever that almost 
 ended his earthly career ere he reached Loanda — as ho 
 sai<l, a "bag of bones." 
 
 The buildings look as if thc^y were intenchMl to resist 
 l)ond>ardment, so heavy and bare an^ they, with but 
 f(nv piazzas or porticos to relieve the prison-like walls. 
 The stores have little or no dis})lay of goods around 
 the doors, and are destitute of windows. On going 
 ashore we found all the shops shut, and for ex]>lanation 
 were informed that it was breakfast-time. It seems 
 to be tin? rule in Portnguese towns (in Africa, at least) 
 that all places of business l)e closed once a day, for a 
 couple of h(^urs, to permit the hiisii traders and tlu'ir 
 assistants to partake of their meals in pea<'e, and at 
 leisure. 
 
 Recollecting that Bishop Taylor told me, when I met 
 him in Indianapolis during the previous winter, that 
 he had an important station at Loanda, after a little 
 
T 
 
 t - ,ftc- iJt**, w*v«i:^.i;«..t. -vi:- mi*'-!fi.iM(-)if.-^'if^'iyi5Uk:M^^' 
 
 M 
 
 
 2() 
 
 RH/tUTY VERSUS ROM/1NCE. 
 
 inquiry I was directed to tlie mission house, situated 
 on tlie top of a liill overlooking the town. It stands 
 aloin; on a sandy mound, built after the bungalow 
 style, about a hundred and fifty yards from the main 
 rf)ad. 1 found the wife of tlu; missionaiy in charge, 
 with her children, at home; }>ut her husband, who 
 woi'ks on the railway dui'ing the w(!ek, was abs(ait. 
 
 ^.fhatevi'r may })e said on missionary platforms con- 
 cerning the feasibility of self-supporting missions in 
 Africa, so far as I have seen or leariK'd it is a gi'and 
 mistake. The theory may b<! all right, but practically 
 it is an absolute failure. Actual facts laid bare, and 
 the ('xperien(;e of scores of earnest men now in the 
 fiehl i)rove, tliat it is infinitely \noYo difficult for a 
 white man to earn his living in Afri<'a than in any 
 Phii'opcan country — unless, of course, he abandons 
 mission work an<l confines himself solely to trading. 
 TIh'u he is not likely to have much influencre for the 
 furtlu'rance of tlu^ gospel among the natives, for his 
 calling would preclude the x>ossibility f)f this. Cc^rtain 
 it is, that a man who must toil tlu^ whole week through 
 for the support of his wife and chiidi-en can have but 
 few opportunities for evangelisti(! work, which should 
 surely form the primary obJ(!ct in sending missionaries 
 to a, land so shrouded in darkness and superstition as 
 Africa. 
 
 iVfr. P does what he can in gathering a few men 
 
 and ])oys (women rarely come) on Sunday afternoons 
 in the basement of the house; (they have no other 
 meeting-place), and reads and speaks to them in Portu- 
 guese, but as yet without any apparent results. 
 
 The bishop seems to expect much from the training 
 
 f^f:fi 
 
 
ClRCUMST/iNCES /ILTER CASES. 
 
 27 
 
 of iiutivo cliildreu as future missionarios to thoir people, 
 (jlood eiiou^li, if Ik; could ])y a civilized upl>riii^iiifj; 
 change their hearts; Imt even Christian influences ar(5 
 not sutli<;i<!nt to turn th(! wayward into paths of rccti- 
 tu<l(', as many ^odly parents can testify. Th(*y iriay 
 acquire souk; knowl<;d^e of the three li's, and liow to 
 dress in Europcsan fashion — the boys dev<'loi)inji: into 
 idle dudes with unlimited conceit, and their natural 
 .'iiitipathy for honest work immeasurably increas(!<l; 
 and tlie ^irls will bo much sought after for wives })y 
 the more aristocratic heathen (as has been the exp(^ri- 
 ence of missions on the flaboon and in Sierra L(!one, 
 etc.). But is this ^ain to tlie kingdom of (lod? Or is 
 this the work (Christ has sent us to do! 
 
 Xor am I alone in my conclusions. In tlu; issue; for 
 V<;bruary of this year of The Jtcffionfi liri/ovd, one who 
 Takes a (h'cp and practical interest in African mission 
 work writers : 
 
 "Paul said to Timothy, 'Meditate on these things; 
 ^ive thyself wholly to them;' and when he himself, 
 for sp(H'ial i'<'asons, and for a lii'ief time, j?ave himsc^lf 
 to manual labor and tent-makinjif, it was not in uncivil- 
 ised Africa! llo had not to learn a barbarous lan- 
 f^ua<>^e, or to ^et acquaint(!d with the thoufj^hts and 
 f(;elinj^s of a savajjje people. He was yn'f^achinjjf in 
 his mother-ton<^ue, to his f<'llow-Jews in th(! familiar 
 syna<j^o<?ue, and living in luxuriously civilized (/orintli, 
 wluTc his hosts att<'nded to all his wants, and where 
 he had niMther lin<?uistic studies nor translation work 
 nor sickness nor dispensing; nor school-teachinj? nor 
 lonj? journeys to distract him. A very different state 
 of thinji^s ! Moreovei' — and this leads to a very impor- 
 
rr» 
 
 MliMMiMi 
 
 i*iwton» 
 
 f 
 
 2S 
 
 RI..U.ITY ri-KSLS NOM.IM:/:. 
 
 liiiit point — tlici'e Wiis ii u'ood iiiiii'kt't ;it h.-iiid for tlif 
 tt'iits lit' iii;i<l<'; and it was no donht his liosis, not In-, 
 who atton<hd to the coninicrciai i>ai1 ol' ihr Imsiin'ss. 
 
 "ThciT is at pi't'scnt no mai'kct-on the ("onuo t'oi' any- 
 1hin,'4' the soil will u'l'ow, Ih'Iicc it is ini})ossilil(' to make 
 money hy any foi'in of a,uTi('ulturt', even if a man (loc> 
 waste his tinH' over it. And as to coinnicrce, wln'thei' 
 it lie th<' roi't'inii trade in ivoi'y, or tlx' repnlsive ami 
 time-wast inu' domestic ti'ade in Jiij({)o|totamns llesli — 
 which iii\-ol\'es the liuntin.u', kil'inu', and cnttinu' np of 
 hippos, the di'yinu' of their llesh, and the h.ii-tei'iiii;' of 
 it with the nativi's — or whetlH'i' it he any other ti'ade. 
 all alike have this .u'rave disadvantau'c, that e\"eii if 
 hy tlieli- means self-support could to some extvnt he 
 attained hy the missionary, it would immediately i)Ul 
 him on a level with other traders, and the }»eopIe would 
 conclude that self-interest was his motive for dwellinu 
 amoiiii' them. . . . 
 
 "The only ' self-sii]^])f)rt ' possihle, therefore, in Africa 
 is the mere t»i'o(luction for domestic use of a sujtiily 
 of veu'etahle and animal fooil on the station. All mis- 
 sionaries who <'an secure laml round their stations n<> 
 ill for this, naturally, as soon as they possihiy can, htr 
 the sake of health, comfort, and iiido|)eii(l(>n('0. 
 
 "But this is not self-sui>i)ort ! Without coinmittiuii- 
 the very folly ami sin hefore alluded to of wastiiii;' 
 their unspeakahly precious time and talents, mission- 
 aries cannot raise even this iciflt tJic'tr oini liai/ds. (Jar- 
 deiiinu,' takes much tim(% even at home. AVe should 
 not think it wise economy for ministers to spend their 
 days ill cultivating,' potatoes and cahliaii'es, or in feeding" 
 piji's ami ,ii'oats, even in p]n,iiland. How much mon 
 
 jswsjH«ff*|c«.!«fas«^:-»asfj|i^f^^ 
 

 ■A 
 
^l^i^isiafMiJ^^^^^ 
 
 (ii 
 
 ~xttt*«.*it(B«nS^ 
 
 ^'^♦*'"t ^^mmwmm^^^%^il^'M1&lli^ 
 
*S<»yh/*r 
 
 SELF-SUPPOR 7 INC MISSIONS. 
 
 29 
 
 al)surd for missiouarios to do it in Africa, wliere thoir 
 time and kiiowlcdj^** tiro so precious, wlioro labor iindor 
 a tropical sun i.s daiijjjcrous to the lu'alth and life of 
 Avliit<' men, where native lahor is cheap an<l abundant, 
 where the people are naked and ^lad to «'arn 'doth' to 
 cover themselves hy \vorkin«x for the white man, and 
 where idleness is a vice which we want to cure in 
 them. 
 
 "Connnon senst' dictates the employment of the Afri- 
 can in the actual woi'k of the jjjarden. They under- 
 stand better than the missionary their own soil, pro- 
 ductions, and climate, and can do the work (juickly 
 and easily. The white man must indeed superinten<l 
 operations himself, or get his wife to do it, in addition 
 to her already onerous domestic duties ; but that need 
 not take much time. 
 
 "But tiiis, again, is not self-sui>port ! 'No pay, no 
 work,' in Africa as in England. The natives have no 
 idea of serving the white man unless he gives them a 
 (jiiid pro quo. They will not work for love either of the 
 missionary or of the occupation. But they see and 
 covet many of his European articles — cloth, cutlery, 
 matches, beads, needles, boxes, or what not; and they 
 will work for these. How can the missionary better 
 begin to civilize and elevate the poor savages whose 
 spiritual and physical good he has come to S(H^k, than 
 by giving them work which trains them to industry, 
 and wages in the form of the primary necessaries of 
 civilization I But to do this he must receive barter 
 goods from home, Thes(» cost money to buy, and still 
 more to transport into Tentral Africa. . . . 
 
 " Missionnrii^s must either bo supported by the na- 
 
 X 
 

 'Mtk»i^y^!i4^^ui%p*': 
 
 'i I 
 
 30 
 
 RLALITY l/ERSUS ROM/iNCE. 
 
 tivoH or from home; )mt in Central Africa self-support 
 is simj)ly hnpos.sihlc, if rapid and effective evangeliza- 
 tion of the Dark Continent is to be attempted. 
 
 " The Liberian Mission of Bisho]) Taylor is an illus 
 tration of this. It is situated on the coast, whert 
 steamers call rejujularly, and amonj? professedly Chris- 
 tian negroes — a very much easier sphere, consequently, 
 than the wholly unevangelized interior, a thousand 
 mih's from the coast. Between fifty and sixty mission- 
 aries have, at veiy heavy expense, been sent out since 
 1887 in connection with this mission, mostly from 
 America. Six of the party died, twenty-seven (includ- 
 injj: families) withdrew, and nineteen remained last year. 
 These were distributed in sixteen stations, so that a 
 ' station ' was for the most part a solitary man, without 
 any heli)ers or resources. What has been the mission- 
 ary result of this effort? Some houses have been built 
 by the missionaries' own hands, some vegetable gardens 
 cleared and planted, and some coft'ee plantations in 
 the same way ; but no attempt has been made to learn 
 the native language, to translate the gospel into it, or 
 to evangelize the Kroo people. The missionaries were 
 instructed to preach as they could in * pigeon English ' 
 (which some of the Kroos understand), and to try and 
 teach the children English. No heathen congregations 
 were gathered, no itinerating attempted, and no preach- 
 ing to the heathen. One who worked three years in 
 this ' mission,' and whose heart was burning to evangel- 
 ize the Kroo people, found it impossible to get time 
 for the study of the language. He had to build his 
 house, clear and cultivate his garden, to light his fire 
 and cook his food, and even to wash his clothes ; for 
 
 -w-mfi^-m!m^?mm^H^MW$l^. 
 
trnjum 
 
 BHNGUf-U SIGHTHn. 
 
 31 
 
 of course ho had no meuiiH of payin;; to a native ser- 
 vant oven tho sixpence a day demanded. 
 
 "Is it not, tlu'refore, conspicuously unwise, and tho 
 very worst possihhi economy, to encourage, or even 
 jtrrmif, the missionary to «liminish Ids ah'eady scanty 
 leisure for the real work for which lie ^ncs to Africa, 
 by frittcrinj^ it away in manual labor in oi'der that ho 
 may have food to eat ? 
 
 "We trust that all who have been led to attempt, 
 ^roni right <lesires, this wrong plan, will do as we did 
 ourselves — for wc once tried it — abandon it as a mis- 
 chievous delusion. 'The laborer is worthy of his hire.' 
 When our Lord lu'gan ITis miiustry He hud aside His 
 carpentering. Missionary work in Africa is hard enough 
 in any cnse — why make it harder? Life there is all 
 too apt to bo brief — why wastt? it while it lasts? And 
 why go the way to shorten it ?" 
 
 The last five or six <lays on boanl the "Cazengo" 
 were anything but agi'oeable. By some l)ungling ar- 
 rangement five liundred tons of coal stowecl in tho 
 after-hold had to be hoisted on de<'k and removed in 
 wheelbarrows l)y tlu^ Kabindas to the ])unkers for'ard, 
 resulting in our being kept in an atmosphere of coal- 
 dust, which permeated and blackened everything. But 
 on the morning of INIay 18th Benguela was sighted, 
 and here ended our ocean voyage. 
 
 The town stands only a few feet above sea-level, on 
 an unl)rok(Mi sandy plain. It boasts a first-rate iron 
 pier, with powerful derrick crane, and a tramway for 
 the conveyance of goods to the custom-house and gov- 
 ernment warehouses adjoining — all spacious and com- 
 modious buildings, constructed of import«Hl material. 
 
^» »k«*- ■•1 J**'* IK *>' 
 
 • >.) 
 
 RHAUTY y'ilRSUS ROMMNCH. 
 
 ami jiromid which sovonil policj* soiitrics aiv postcil, 
 convicts t'lojM tlic East Coast bcin^ cniploycU for this 
 
 tosc 
 
 piir) 
 
 On hmdin*;, I bopm to roali/.c liow terrible was tho 
 hcjit on seeing a t'ox-tcrricr l)clon«;in^ to one of tlio 
 newly ai rived passen^Jfers bein^ UmI alon^' the street, 
 wlieii snd<lenly it wheehvl round two or tliree times, 
 unve a yelp, and rolled over on its l»aek, dead. Fear- 
 inii a like fatality befallinj? my buU-doji: Oyp, I jjcot her 
 under sha«l(3 and procured water for her as soon as 
 
 1 
 
 )ossihl( 
 
 bh 
 
 The climate of Ben^uela has an evil i-eputation, and 
 the odds are very much ajyainst the probability of its 
 inipi'ovinji", chielly because of die low-lyin<jj situation 
 of the town, [ireventinjjc l>roper drainage and favorini; 
 
 il exhalati 
 
 Within th 
 
 f( 
 
 malarial exhalations. 
 Fiiiropcan traders have been cut off by liaMiiaturic fever. 
 Few wliite men can live Ini-e for any leiio'th of time 
 without fre(juent visits to their mother-country. 
 
 The streets are broad and well kept, with a row of 
 trees on «»ach side, mostlv svcamores The houses are 
 built of adobe (sun-dried bricks) laal with mud; the 
 roofs and floors are tiled. A lar^e square forms the 
 business center, where around each door wo see crow<ls 
 of natives who hav(> brouii:ht from the interior ivory, 
 wax, india-rubber, etc., n'ceivin^ in exchauo:e cotton 
 stuffs, ji'uns, <i:unpowder, beads, and " aguardente " 
 (white rum). 
 
 I)y i>n'vious arranij^ement with my aji:«^nt, Mr. Kani- 
 meriiiaii, maiinu'er of the Dutch House, I found several 
 carriers waitiim' to take our personal baj>:gago on to 
 Catamlx'lla, a town some sixteen miles north, Avhere 
 
 
CAT.^MBELl.A. 
 
 'X\ 
 
 our carnvan waH to bo nuulo up for tho interior. Wo 
 started iu tho (^voninjjf alon^ a fairly ^ood road Imt 
 for the deep sand and dust, ami arrived at tho Dutch 
 House ultout ten o'clock. But this hasty retreat from 
 ncny:u»'la proved ill-advis«'d; for if wo wen* iu u hurry 
 the shii»piM<i; ollicials were not, and in a couple of diiys 
 I had to return a<;ain to se«> my goo<ls through, and 
 then found that tin* ^i-eater part had gone on by tho 
 •' CuzeufA'o " to MossaUKMlos. Thus I had to wait several 
 days until she returned; then two more were wasted 
 in transferrinjj: them from the lighters to tho wharf — 
 a bit of busin(>ss that wouhl havo been oomi)leted on 
 th«i Clyde, the Thames, or the Hudson in half an hour. 
 
 ^[r. (h'eshotY (also of the Dutch House) kindly took 
 charji'o of all my papers and had everytliiufjf pass«'d 
 through tho customs without any trouble. But I had 
 still to draw oji my almost exhausted stock of patience, 
 for now the packages were in tho hands of the dilatory 
 railway company, and although a track to Catambella 
 Avas eomuKMiced six years ago, not more than half tho 
 distance is as yet completed. "VVe were not surprised 
 at this, after having had pointed out to us two l)rass 
 guns lying in the sand near tho wharf, for which car- 
 riages were ordered in 1790 and aro still expected. 
 
 The navvies employed for tho heaviest work in the 
 construction of the railway aro native women, many 
 of them toiling along under tho scorching sun with 
 pick and shovel, or carrying rails, sleepers, spikes, etc., 
 with babies strapped to their backs. 
 
 A large trade with tho natives is carried on in Ca- 
 tambella, and during our stay of ten days we had an 
 opportunity of observing its general character. The 
 
- ^^H-i'miii^^m^4smi,,xmm^mmmiiSK^^^^^ 
 
 34 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 !f 
 
 produots of tho far interior are bartered for tlie most 
 conmioii quality of «rlieap and trashy ji^oods it is possi- 
 ])Ie to nianufacture — some of tliO calicoes res«Mnl)ling 
 <'h(H'se-clotli, though not so stronjj:; shoddy l)hinkets; 
 lon<;- flint-lock guns, with gas-pipe barrels, white-pine 
 stocks painted red, and bound with numerous rings 
 of tinsel; whit(; rum, etc. Tho headmen of caravans 
 receive nmch-appreciated presents in the sha[)e of dis- 
 cai'ded military clothing, helmets, tunics, and ovej-- 
 coats, bv wav of encouragement to come again. It is 
 no unusual sight to see those lucky individuals sti'ut- 
 ling behind their little company as they leave for the 
 journey homeward — one trigged out in an old pair of 
 '4"J tartan ti'owsers and a helmet of the London police; 
 another with a dismantled busl)y and a footman's 
 swallow-taih'd coat; next a silk tile and the scarlet 
 tunic of a Highland st)ldier. Of course, in each case 
 you must add Africa's national garment — the loin- 
 cloth ! 
 
 Every morning, without exception, caravans vary- 
 ing in size up to hundreds of natives come trudging 
 into th<! town in long straggling lines, each carrier 
 bearing a load on his or her shoulder ov In^ad of from 
 forty to eighty pounds weight. The most jiitiable 
 sight it is possible to witness is the long procession, 
 <*liietly women, boys, and girls, limping along, footsore, 
 with swolh^n ankles and shoulders chafed by burdens 
 all too heavy for their emaciated bodies. A large per- 
 c«>ntage of these are slaves, bought in the interior by 
 half-breed traders for a few yards of cloth, and return 
 to their homes no more, being sold on putting down 
 their loads at the trader's door. I saw a band of sixty 
 
 V 
 
 K-Ai^mmmw^^'f*'* 
 
 wmm 
 

 f 
 
 
 > 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
'!■> v'frijtiti 
 
 .^t^ iS«a«l^8f#»«ii.?*?l1iS|^ 
 
 
imjkmt 
 
 SLAVE CARAVANS. 
 
 35 
 
 such, each with a tm tag round the neck, being marched 
 off to be shipped at Bengueki for one of the Portuguese 
 islands. Were they shives I Oh no, only contracted 
 labor. Just so. Or suppose we call them apprenticM-s 
 for life! What's in a name— so long as the letter of 
 the law is evaded? Only tnis I know: that they were 
 sold to their present owners at from three pounds ster- 
 ling to six pounds per caput. 
 
 Long open sheds are provided in the yards of the 
 houses at which the natives have come to trade, and 
 after a few days these become loathsome in the ex- 
 treme, from their crowded ^ind unsanitary condition. 
 The death-rate at best on the coast is very high, but 
 add the filthy state of the kintouls, as these iiiclosures 
 are called, and the mortality is fearful. Not a day 
 passed that we did not see dead bodies, each wrapped 
 iu a bit of dirty cloth, tied to a pole and borne on the 
 shoulders of two men to the top of the adjacent hill, 
 where they are thrown over the other side, to be de- 
 voured by jackals and hyenas during the night, which 
 is made dismal by their weird howls as they fight 
 over their ghastly quarry. Deceased natives who have 
 friends are carried out of town and buried by the way- 
 side, so that for over a mile of the path to the interior 
 there is scarcely a yard to right or left of the track that 
 has not a grave. 
 
 
"'^•^^^'^^ <^^^^^^^*»^^^^m^f^u,^m^mmtm^-*'*^ 
 
 III 
 
 CH/VPTER IT. 
 
 FROM CATAMBELLA TO KWANJULULU. 
 
 Toward the rising sun. — A waterless countrj'. — A cold night. — Native 
 foot-traeks. — The Esupwa Pass. — Bad water. — In the Cisangi country. — 
 An outbreak in camp. — Foraging. — Extremes of temperature. — Lost in 
 tlio forest. — In a game-pit. — Signals of distress. — Safe in camp. — On 
 the great plateau. — Slave shackles. — Native graves. — In dangers oft. — 
 The river Kcve. — Utalama. — Indiscretion. — An untimely end. — Bailun- 
 du. — (.'ilunii. — The American mission. — Ekwikwi interviewed. — Trial 
 for witcheraft. — Preparing for war. — Social laws. — Domestic relation- 
 ships. — Farewell to Cilumi. — Artifleial beehives. — Carriei's. — Arrival at 
 Kwanjululu. 
 
 FOR several days before starting mucli lias to be 
 done in the way of repacking and making up loads 
 to the required weight — sixty pounds per man. 
 
 But at last, on the 29th of May, we are ready, and 
 at three o'clock in the afternoon turn our faces to the 
 east and set out on the march toward the Indian Ocean. 
 How very far away it seems to us now, and how many 
 weary steps must be taken ere that goal is reached and 
 the great continent crossed! But it will be done if 
 health and life are granted us. I take the lead myself, 
 with two of the Jamai(\nns, the ot^^<^r four bringing up 
 the rear ; all of us feeling " very fit," and delighted to 
 escape from the pestilential and fever-stricken coast. 
 
 Our path lies along the usual caravan I'oute to Bihe. 
 We liave six t^xtra men to carry watcn- and otlier pro- 
 visions through the waterless jountry between here and 
 
 30 
 
 
mmm^'^^^ 
 
 A COMFORTLESS BIVOUAC. 
 
 37 
 
 ¥ 
 
 the Esupwa Pass. By six o'clock we camp for the mglit, 
 making a short march of eight miles ; but it is a start. 
 By the time my tent is pitched the food-])Oxes have 
 arrived, and we set about preparing sui)per, gipsy 
 fashion, but with a keen relish for our frugal repast. 
 By 8 r.M. all is quiet, a score of camp-fires 1)lazing, and 
 around each the prostrate figures of several men with a 
 little grass for a bed, and no covering but the canoj)y 
 of heaven and their meager loin-cloths, there being 
 neither sufficient wood nor grass to build huts. The 
 dew is heavy and the night cold, so that the poor fel- 
 lows have but a comfortless bivouac. By day1)reak 
 all are astir. There is time oidy for a hasty cu}) of 
 coffee with a few biscuits, or the remains of last night's 
 supper, wherewith to fortify the inner man for the 
 road. The carriers eat nothing in the morning, but 
 each man, seizing his load, cold and shivering, breaks 
 into a half-trot, and follows the lead along the narrow 
 track, that winds and twists, now up the rugged face 
 of a hill, and anon through the long grass of the valleys. 
 These tracks are mere footpaths, seldom over twelve or 
 fourteen inches in width, but in many places worn into 
 deep ruts by the rains and generations of native traffic ; 
 and woe betide the ankles of the pedestrian if he wears 
 low shoes with sharp heels. Their general direction is 
 as straight as the configuration of the country will 
 permit ; but in detail they turn and bend in the most 
 tortuous fashion, without nny apparent reason. A 
 stone or stump is sufficient to switch the African out 
 of his course, and on no account will he step over a 
 fallen tree, be it ever so small, if by making a detour 
 lie can get round it ; in a short time the white ants eat 
 
 1 
 
:»?>♦% K.-j*'*:, y^m^M^^i^^ f^-"m>i.>^mM^mpitr^'^r^,,^^^^^ 
 
 38 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE 
 
 the tree, but the new path has beeu made, grass grows 
 on the old, and so it remains for all time. 
 
 The country between Catambella and the Esupwa 
 Pass — two days' march — is the most uninteresting and 
 dreary waste imaginable. Not a diop of water is to l)0 
 had, and the land yields nothing but a few isolated 
 bobs of rough, reedy grass; and although we get an 
 extensive view of hills and plains, there is nothing to 
 relieve the eye, only the vast stretch of stunted scrub, 
 with here and there a puny tree with gnarled trunk and 
 shadeless foliage. But on the 30tli we camped by the 
 Esupwa River, and had a delightful swim in its beau- 
 tiful clear waters, the natives warning us to keep a 
 sharp lookout for alligators, as they abound here. 
 Numerous long-tailtKl black monkeys grinned at us 
 from the trees as we performed our ablutions. This 
 is a charming spot. I wonder if we shall come across 
 many more like it f 
 
 Next day we commenced the ascent of the Esupwa 
 Mountain — a stiff pull over innnense boulders of rocks. 
 The i^ass reminds me very forcibly of a bit of Scottish 
 Highland scenery. We are now getting up to the great 
 Central African plateau, and in a day or two expect to 
 reach an altitude of five thousand feet above sea-level. 
 
 Reached the camping-ground about noon. "We have 
 not seen a village, and only one human habitation, 
 since lej'ving the coast. We had to wait until four 
 o'clock for dinner, as the only means of obtaining water 
 was by digging a deep hole in a dry river-bed, and 
 waiting for a muddy pool to form, to be dipped up 
 in cupfuls. What a change from yesterday ! But l)y 
 boiling and allowing it to settle, we collect sufficient 
 
 '' \ 
 
 Siit 
 
 wm 
 
Sl!'^-.#**^**t"** 
 
 
!*tfi^^4*^ um^»^fi*^^^^'mi^.^'J^.i4,,^>^iittr'iami^0 
 
 -^t^^i&sife^^^isegm^is!^^ 
 
i^dim^' 
 
 B/1D ly/tTER. 
 
 39 
 
 for our immediate use. These long fasts become very 
 trying, ospoeitilly when, ut'ter a long march, wc get into 
 camp weary and hungry about 2 p.m., having had noth- 
 ing but a few ounces of food at daybreak, and now 
 to wait until water is found and food cooked ! To (>at 
 biscuits by the way would cause thirst, and often with- 
 out the means of allaying it. This brings us down to 
 ono meal a day, as, by the time dinner is over, it is get- 
 ting dark, and after a chat round the camp-fire, rehears- 
 ing the experiences of the day and the jn'ospects for 
 to-morrow, we are glad to roll ourselves in our blankets 
 and go to sleep. 
 
 Another day and we arrive in the Cisangi country, 
 where, near a small vilhige, we camp. We purchased 
 some sweet i)otatoes, tlic poorest I have ever seen ; also 
 corn on the cob, the longest al)Out four inches; but 
 when we look at the poor sandy soil, we wonder how 
 it yields anything at all. 
 
 The last of the loads had only just come in, when I 
 heard loud shrieks proiMH^ling from some distance be- 
 hind my tent. Hastening to the spot, I found a band 
 of my carriers, who, presuming on the fact of their 
 being with a white man, were attacking and doing 
 their best to plumhn' a small native caravan bound for 
 the coast. At first I could not comprehend what all 
 the row was about, until the excited strangers directed 
 my attention to several men retreating toward the 
 camp, each carrying some article he had seized. Then 
 I took in the situation. Right before my eyes two 
 burly fellows were helping themselves to small bags of 
 meal, carried by some little girls, who were screaming 
 pitr^o'idy and begging to have their food spared. I 
 
 
■tfTM^. >-»^ M^^Atf-auU^i.-. ^viMW,,,,.^' i^T/KUiHi'^iJIiitit^J^ **^Sfc# 
 
 40 
 
 KliAUTY I'liRSUS ROM AN (J:. 
 
 iiiiKlc sij;iis — not knowinjjf the luii^ua^'«; — for tlio rolt- 
 IxTs to desist, l»ut ill vain; tlicy prctrndt'd not to 
 notic*', and niy only alt«'rnativ(! was to make tlu'ni tVd. 
 Laying hold of a stick that Avas handy, I aitplicd it 
 "VN'ith some vi^or across the shoulders of tho cowardly 
 villains, when they sj)eedily di-opped th«* meal and 
 made oiX. In a very short time, hy means of the same 
 stick, 1 succeeded in restoring all th(,' sjujil, and walked 
 ■witii tho scared little company until they were a safe 
 distance from my men. Nonii can I'e^ret nioi-e than 1 
 do th<^ necessity for sucli di'astic measures hein^' re- 
 S(trted to; yet it is imju'rativi! that a cleai' undej'stand- 
 iny be ai'rived at between tin; leader of an expedition 
 and his men on the ({uestion of plunder; ne,i;lectin^' 
 to define it emphatically at the start would jd-ohahly 
 mean the ruin of the undertaking, as has Ih'cu the 
 cxperienco of some we could name, l>esides being the 
 caus(; of great loss of life. 
 
 Tho small defenseless party come from the far in- 
 t<'rior and belong to a ])()werful tribe lying right in 
 our route. Jn a tew weeks they return from the 
 coast, pass on alxnid of us, an<l rei>ort.the assault of the 
 Biheans to their i>eople. The former have nothing to 
 fear in this case, as they do not travel Ijeyond their 
 own countiv; but the injured natives sound their 
 slogan as the white man ai»proachcs their teri'itoiy, 
 and tluy lay wait for him. If ho refused to defend the 
 weak and wronged, or winked at th<; (h'predations of 
 his men, ho must now light or die — and perhaps both. 
 I am persuaded that many of the disasters that have 
 befallen larg(> expeditions through various parts of 
 Central Africa might have been averted liad the ex- 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 ■iitiim^midi$s»^^ 
 
 IP 
 
^^t»ihi^*^ 
 
 I-.XTRLMUS or IliMrHRATURE. 
 
 41 
 
 i 
 
 plon'i" in chai'^n' riiiorously |Hiiiisli(Ml the natural i>iv- 
 (lisiiositiun ul* the AtVican lu steal IVoni tlif tfilK^ 
 tlir()U«j;li whoso r-onntry Ims is i>assin;x- Of coui'sc it is 
 (•alh'tl t'orai^iiiiX, Itiit it means in many instances that 
 Jninch't.Mls of men are set In-o to take what they want 
 hy i'oi'('«( fi'oni tlie villagers, who in turn ai»iteiil to the 
 whit(? men for re<h'ess. Inese, not knowin;^ the <'Xtent 
 of the jtiUa^e, liand over a hit of cloth, a few heads 
 or handkerchiel's — conii)ensation alto<;'ether inadequate : 
 H'sult, a passajjfe at arms and prohahly losses ou both 
 sides. 
 
 Juno 'Jd. I find it diCiicult to start the carriers in 
 the morninj? before the sun is uj), the cold is so sever*'. 
 They huddU" together round th<; fires, aiul when at last 
 they aro roused to make a move, with one hand they 
 steady their load, and with the other grab a firel>rand, 
 ami trot off blowing ujton it to keep U]) the glow and 
 so supply a little warmth to theii- fingers. 'J'he ex- 
 tremes of temperature l)ot\veen night and day ai'e now 
 very trying to those of us who have warm clothes. 
 What must it ]»e to their naked bodies! At (i a.m. 
 to-ihiy the thermometer in my tent rogister«'d IJHo F., 
 mid yestonhiy, at noon, in tlu' shade, over 90° F. 
 
 Water still very scarce — not a drop to be had except 
 by digging; and so impure, that boiling, precipitating 
 with alum, and filtering wore uot enough to prevent it 
 hringing on a sharp attack of dysentery when a])out a 
 milt^ from camp. All the afternoon and night of the 
 4th I was completely prostrated — the most acute twelve 
 hours of suffering I ever ondui'OfL 
 
 June 5th. Feeling very we'ak, but tliankful to be 
 sufficiently recovered to takci the road, four men car- 
 
•'4^ ^Jt^iam^^lm..i IW- M»M, 
 
 **S»<^-»UIV*»,,**'^||# 
 
 42 
 
 KI..IUTY yLHSUS ROM /INCH. 
 
 ryiuK I'K' 'I K'>^><1 I"i''t '>!' tlu^ Wiiy in u Imniniock. Our 
 joitli l<'<l 1liroii;<li lliick Idisli ; there were no villages 
 iir si^lil, iiml we were impressed witli the ai)|)ureiit 
 spiirsely |(()[)iilate<l coinlitioii of the couiitry. 
 
 We were (|Mit(! oiil of IVesli meat, aiid after a fnij^'al 
 meal of (lesiecf led soiip an<l manioc I took my ^iin 
 and went out — unwis<'ly, alone — in sfjurch of Komethin;^ 
 fni the (»ot. I shot a few pigeons, and, soein^ a ^.ood 
 many at some distane*-, hnt very wild, ke|)t following;' 
 hither and thither, nnt il I ^^ot turned round ;ind lost 
 my l»earinj;s, forj^ettin<^ the dinu-tion of the camp. The 
 sun ]iaviiij< set, it <^ot dark veiy <|ui<'kly, an<l in a short 
 time I had to I'aee the awkwai'd position of finclinj;' 
 myself lost in the forest. I wand(!red up and down 
 for hours, endeavoi'in^' to strike; some traek that mi<^lit 
 lead nie «)ut ; hut in vain. It was now pitch <lark. I 
 Sid down, tired of jiopelessly stru<;«;linj^ amon<^ the 
 liushes; hut, huvin<^ on neitli<'i' coat nor vest, an<l 
 without matches to li^ht a lire, I felt cjiilly, and de- 
 termined to make one more elTort to ohtain si<^lit or 
 sound of camp. I climlx'd several ti'ces, liopini^ to 
 f^et a, glimpse; of the <*aJni»-rires ; hut no, there was 
 nothinj;' to he seen hut tli(! tilack outline of tho ti-ees 
 aji'ainst the sky. ^J'he welcomo stars he<^an to apjx'ar, 
 and soon the souliiern cross was in view; and, ha\in,i;' 
 an idea, tluit I ou^ht to tui"n noi'th, I sf^t out once moi'c, 
 hut had not <;-one j'ai' when I entered a deep ravine and 
 encountered a swam[) with lon.^' reedy <^rass loweriii};- 
 lii/^h ahove iny liciid. I juished on, lioldin^ my j^un 
 horizontally, to keep llie spear-<^rass from cuttinj^ my 
 face. Suddenly my feet W((nt from undei- me, and I 
 was precii>itated into a deep ^ame-i»it. The branches 
 
 I 
 
 
 ^'^•SW*!^**^**^***^^ 
 
^•>JK»'**^.' 
 
 i 
 
 i.os/ IN run lORi.sr. 
 
 43 
 
 of tiv«'H witli wliicli its iiioutli had boon oovorod l)i'()kn 
 the rail ('Oiisidci'ahly ; l»ut an an;<ry Hiiarl tVoiii hclow 
 aiiiioiiiKM'd that 1 was not aloiu! in the trnp. I IVll lor 
 my sh«'ath-knir<' in pi-ospcct of an fiiconntcr, Wnf a 
 ♦•oarsc fur ))rnshin;; past my fao' intimated that thf 
 animal, whatcvci- it was, had no such |»n;<nacious in- 
 tent, hut, hcin^ ('(|ually scaiv-d, took advanla;^*' of my 
 shouldei" to cfTcct its ('S('a|)('. 'V\w hole was narr<»w 
 and I mana;i:ed to scrajnltle out })y hultinjr my feet 
 af^ainst the opjiosile, side. The strn<;^le in the pit, 
 however, look away the last vestif^e of strength I pos- 
 sessiid, ail' I t<> jjjo farthei- was imjtossihle. 
 
 \ <lisehai";^e(| the r<'niainin<; cart rid<^es in the forlorn 
 hop(' that the shots mi^ht he lieaiwl hy sorne of my 
 people. lin-athless with anxiety and fatiji,iie, I listened, 
 when, to my unspeakahle i-elicif, after a few minutes I 
 liciii'd, thou,u:li at a <i;reiit distance, the answer of a na- 
 tive <^un ; and so<tn the shouts of my men, <i;ettin;^ 
 m(»re and more distinct, told ni(! that I would sleej» in 
 my tent that ni^ht and not in the W(»ods, as a slioi't 
 time hefol'e seemed ilievitahle. 
 
 Next day l)i-ou<;ht us tliroujili a more thi<*kly popii- 
 lut<!d and hettcr cultisated district than wo have seen 
 sinc(! starting. ! was much interested in sevej'al pecul- 
 iar-lookinj^ mountains, seeminjj,iy solid hlocks of <^i'an- 
 ite without a vesti<;e of <;i*ass or hoi'hayc, and no ci'a^s, 
 tissures, or ja<;t^ed ro<'ks. One in particular was round 
 and smooth, like a ^i<;antic inv(!rt<'(l hasi::. AVi; cainpecj 
 at the l)ase of tlu( Olomhin<io ran<i:e, so calU^d Ixn-auso 
 of its rocky peaks, resembling, when viewed at a cei- 
 tain allele, the horns of an animal. 
 
 For several days now our path leads over a series 
 
I i 
 
 ■^^v:^M«5|*«mft*^.^,i»^,^5^^ ,,^, 
 
 44 
 
 RE/IUTY VERSUS ROM/iNCE. 
 
 Hi 
 
 h 
 
 of mountains, including the Elonga (or plate, from the 
 hollowed-out shape of its summit), on the top of which 
 hoth boiling-point thermometer and aneroid indicated 
 an altitude of seventy-two hundred feet. From this 
 point the view of hills and valleys is really very fine^ 
 the atmosphere so clear, and no forests intervening. 
 The immense lajidscape of rolling country is limited 
 only by the extent of our vision. 
 
 I noticed by the pathway a great many blocks of 
 wood, from a foot to eighteen inclies long and about 
 five inches wide, witli an oblong hole cut in each. 
 These, I was informed by the natives, were the arti- 
 cles used l)y slave-traders with which to fetter their 
 captive carriers during the night. The feet are passed 
 through the hole and a wooden peg driven between the 
 ankles. 
 
 We passed by the wayside the gi'ave of a pombiero, 
 or headman of one of these caravans, where the natives 
 had with grim satire erected a monument to his mem- 
 ory, by stringing some twenty of these shackles on a 
 pole and sticking it up at the head of the mound where 
 the tyrant was buried, that the passer-by might read 
 the suggestive epitapli. Numerous bleaching skulls 
 a little way from the track tell how the slaves whom 
 death has set free are disposed of. But the headman 
 of an ordinary caravan is generally buried in a very 
 respectful manner, his hat, umbrella, cooking-pot, and 
 powder-barrel being invariably placed on the grave. 
 Over all a rude hut is built, open at the sides, while 
 near by a rough seat is erected, lest the spirit of the 
 departed should get tired wandering up and down — as 
 they suppose it does — and, returning +o tlie spot, it 
 
 -»*J «.:.7*n>>4K»,^»fi#|' ' 
 
f^i^^'^^' *^^" 
 
 )m the 
 wliicli 
 lieatod 
 111 tills 
 fine— 
 veiling, 
 limited 
 
 >cks of 
 L about 
 1 each. 
 10 avti- 
 1' their 
 passed 
 eeii the 
 
 niblero, 
 natives 
 .s niein- 
 es on a 
 (1 where 
 >-ht read 
 y skulls 
 's Avhom 
 leadiiiaii 
 1 a very 
 •pot, and 
 e grave. 
 es, while 
 it of the 
 lowii — as 
 ) spot, it 
 
 «H.K*.=w*pi' ■ M 
 
.■«!?:iiji. V^>-*4fc ^C5*W'».1i^.^^• j^-^i^trilwv-S^^ 
 
 I ! I 
 
 ^!! 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
m^^^^'^mf 
 
 IN DANGERS OFT. 
 
 45 
 
 I 
 
 might be gratified by this mark of consideration for 
 its comfort on the part of the relatives or ^friends, and 
 so refrain from haunting or troubling them. 
 
 On the 8tli, soo:.i after starting, we were accosted by 
 four blacks, whom we recognized as Portuguese sol- 
 diers. They were armed with Hnider j-ifles, bayonets, 
 and cartridge-belts, and announced to us that an oittcci- 
 and his wife were on llieir way to Bihe; but most of 
 their carriers having deserted, leaving their loads in 
 the bush, these worthies had orders to get men whei-e 
 and how they could, to fill the vacant situations. 
 While making these explanations they kept casting 
 furtive and admiring glances on some of my carca- 
 dores (porters), ultimately expressing their opinion 
 that some of them woiiici serve their purpose. But, 
 pointing to my Winchester and Webley, I emphatic- 
 ally assured them that to touch a single individual in 
 my caravan would bring about the funeral of more 
 than one Portuguese soldier before the sun set. At 
 this the cowardly quartet sneaked off, allowing our 
 carriers to pass without further molestation ; but later 
 in the day we learned that no sooner were we out of 
 sight than they intercepted a party of natives, seized 
 and bound twelve men, marching them off at the point of 
 the bayonet. The whole district seems terror-stricken 
 Ijecause of these marauders. We passed several vil- 
 lages where we had hoped to obtain food, but the in- 
 habitants had fled. 
 
 Two days more bring us to the Bailundu country. 
 Tlie ground being white v/ith hoar-frost in the early 
 morning, it is very difficult for the first hour or two 
 to urge the men along ; they want to stop every few 
 
s*-,tv V vSPaw. x;7»<t*^'SS!Hiwur3*>-.Trtttt,/.,r?*U.^«T*^ .**,'.'.' '^^'*?^ 
 
 
 II i i 
 
 Hi ^ 
 
 46 
 
 REALITY yERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 minutes to make a fire, while some sit down to cry 
 over and hug their cold feet. 
 
 On the 10th we reached the Keve River. Some of 
 us were ferried across in a native bark canoe, others 
 waded over. It is said by some travelers that thifc 
 stream is likely in the future to prove a great water- 
 way into the interior from Novo Rodondo. The wis- 
 dom or otherwise of the suggestion may be judged 
 from the fact that the body of water is comparatively 
 small, navigal^le for most of the year only by canoes, 
 and its elevation five thousand feet above the sea — a 
 i:)retty steep climb for steamers in that short distance. 
 But what would they come here for, anyhow ! 
 
 Another few miles and we reach Utalama, the village 
 where poor Morris and Gall died and lie buried a ston(»'s- 
 tlirow from the path, the graves inclosed by a palisade 
 of sticks. Thoughts of deepest gratitude to God rose 
 in my heart for the good health of our party thus 
 far; but as I gazed on those lonely mounds I found 
 myself in a melancholy reverie, having learned, since 
 coming to Africa, the painful circumstances connected 
 with their death — circumstances reflecting anything 
 but credit on those who had charge of the party, and 
 proving the indiscretion of permitting a man like Mr. 
 Morris, just out of ? London counting-house, to tramp 
 all day in the glaring heat of Africa, living on the 
 coarsest fare and sleeping sometimes in the open at 
 night, as we gather from his own diary: 
 
 " It was late before we reached camp. Only one tent 
 was pitched, into which the three sisters retired, and 
 we brethren just lay round about, wrapped up in our 
 rugs on the bare ground, some of us — I among them 
 
 I 
 
 Ui 
 
 -.H;<S»[iM«*iiMifet^'5»i^^ ?«g||f 
 
^S3«*feWv''*'^ 
 
 AN UNTIMELY END. 
 
 — putting up our umbrellas over our heads to keep off 
 the night clew, which falls very heavily." 
 
 The privations suffered were from no lack of means, 
 but from sheer iin, management on the part of thos(» 
 who were responsible for the conveysmce of this n«.'W 
 party to the interior. For Mr. Morris was a gentleman 
 of high standing and repute, an eminently sueeessful 
 Christian worker at Walthamstow, and connected with 
 a lucrative mercantile business. Helling out his share, 
 he with Mrs, Morris started for Africa at their own ex- 
 pense. But they never reached their destination. jNlr. 
 Morris was stricken by the fever, and Mr. Gall a])out 
 the same time, their deaths occurring within four hours 
 of each other. 
 
 For some days previous to his death Mr. Morris lay 
 in a semi-conscious condition. Night and <lay his heroic 
 wife was by his side; l)ut who shall tell of the anguish 
 of mind she nuist have endured as she watched her 
 husband shortly before he died? "Wringing his face 
 at the memory of his poor cliildren left behind, ' I can- 
 not, no, I cannot leave them!' he burst forth. *My 
 precious girls — my boy, my boy ! '" * 
 
 Home may seek to moralize, and (piote Scripture for 
 their comfort, on tin; premature end of two valuable 
 lives; but the harrowing details as related by eye- 
 witnesses of the tragic scene haunt us like a horrible 
 dream, and satisfy us that this mournful event might 
 have been averted had the leader been possessed of jis 
 much common sense as sentiment. 
 
 June 11th. A number of our carrier's jjelong to this 
 district, and refuse to lift their loads this morning, 
 
 * From lu'hofs af' Service. 
 
48 
 
 Rl-ALITY VERSUS ROMANCH. 
 
 wishing, as they say, to spend the day with their 
 friends. I was successful, however, by dint of coaxing 
 and threats, in inducing half a dozen men to start Avith 
 nio for Cilumi, a station of the American mission some 
 eighteen miles distant, and to the left of our route. 
 
 Leaving the Jamaica men in charge of the camp, 
 with instructions to advance next morning, wo set out 
 an<l arrived ut the mission compound by noon. The 
 missionaries, the Revs. Stover, Woodside, and Cotton, 
 extended to mo a hearty welcome. Nothing could have 
 exceeded the kindness of these good friends, and I was 
 easily persuaded to prolong my stay for a couple of 
 days. 
 
 This mission — an oasis in the desert — was founded 
 about twelve years ago, and there are now twenty-four 
 converts in church-membership; but the influence of 
 these men, their wives, and Miss Clark, a young Cana- 
 dian lady who assists in school-teaching, cannot be cal- 
 culated l)y figures. 
 
 The marked improvement in the social condition of 
 the natives in the neighl)orliood, as compared with 
 those we have met hitherto, testify that, if slowly, yet 
 surely, the power for good of a mission such as this, 
 conducted on practical connnon sense as well as Chris- 
 tian principles, must in due cours(^ become manifest 
 both in the lives and homes of the p(^ople among whom 
 it is established. 
 
 It may be said tliat the results seeiri small consider- 
 ing the large staff of laborers, and the many years that 
 have passed since the work was oi'ganized. Yes, if it 
 were true, as is asserted again and again, that tli<' Afri- 
 can earnestly reiterates the Macedonian cry, "C*onio 
 
 h- ^ 
 
 *-Wr««»««<«t»j|^.Ti*-^^^g;Jj,,*^ 
 
*^ 
 
 F.KIVIKIVI INTERyiEH''ED. 
 
 49 
 
 i^ "v 
 
 over imd liolp ns ; " and that already " Ethiopia stretches 
 out Ikt hands unto (Sod." //'ho calls for missionaries 
 at all, it is because he expects theiu to briuj:; hiiu <'l()th, 
 heads, .u'uns, and «j:unpowder; but ho is not particuliirly 
 anxious for the ^osiicl, for he is ignorant of its ini- 
 l>()rt and nieaning, and in his heatlien condition Avnnts 
 nothing that does not achl to his sensual gratilication. 
 Anything else he must be taught; and this means 
 slow, uphill, and often discouraging work. Only in the 
 field is it possible to know a tithe of the hindrances 
 and barriers to the })rogress of missions in Central 
 Africa, recpiiring, as they <lo, unlimited patience, strong 
 faith, and steady plodding toil on the part of those 
 who would succeed. 
 
 I accompanied Mr. AVoodside on a visit to Ekwikwi, 
 king of l^ailundu, at his "ombala" or capital. Tiie 
 royal village is situated on the top oc a hill, connnand- 
 ing a good view of the sui'rounding country. A hole 
 in tlu^ palisades about twenty inches wide and five fe(>t 
 high forms the grand entrances to the courtyard, which 
 at night is used as a cattl«vp(>n. Here we found his 
 majesty, seated on a stone placed against the fence. 
 At a distance of some thirty feet, and in a semicirch*, 
 squatted a large nund)er of minor chi(»fs, counseloi's, 
 and headmen. In the center sat a num who was being 
 tried for his lift; under an indictment for wit<'hcraft; 
 and by his si<h> an aged chief, who had espoused the 
 culprit's caus(», was, at the time wo entered, eloquently 
 pleading the innocence of his client. The; speaker 
 stopped short as we appeared, and waited until the 
 ceremony of being " presented at court " had ended. 
 The king greeted us cheerfully, graciously accej^ting a 
 
 ff.3Sh»w»»|. ,«^ 
 
•»«»«ai»4^3«fct*6«fc»««*.*«^^^ «,)^iiy 
 
 f V - ■ ^l^ - ii ' ja; 
 
 i! 
 
 30 
 
 Rl-AUTY yi:RSUS ROMANCH. 
 
 pivseiit of cloth, n bit of soap, and a box of iiiatclios; 
 ami we took scuts, l)y liis iV(|U(>st and favor, on stones 
 close to "tlic bench." ^i'lie advocate then proceeded 
 with the case, while Ekwikwi kept up u runniiiu' fire 
 of iiiten'oyations at Mr. Woodside, concei'iiin^' the 
 St ran-vr. " Who is he .' " " Wliere from ;' " " Whither 
 
 liouild .'" etc., etc. 
 
 The kiiii;' has a slrcwd and not nn.inteHi,u'ent face. 
 lie is probably about sixty yeai's of aj^'c, and r(\joices 
 in a hai'cin of oN'ei- fifty wi\'es, most of them bein<;' 
 cai)ti\es from distant tribes, brouj;ht home as booty 
 dui"iii,H' his j)ei'iodical raids o'l districts which he thinks 
 on,!;ht to pay him trih'iteand don't! Only a short tinu^ 
 a.u'o, he rciurned fi-om one of these cami)ai^'ns bi'in^uin^' 
 back some sixty slaves and lari»'(» herds of cattle. 
 
 While s'liini;' in the court Ave observe<l the yoimj;' 
 men busy makin.u' cartrid.u'cs, forirnni;' a case by deftly 
 i-olliiii;- pa]»er round a stick, liUin,u' it with gunpowder, 
 and i;isei1iii.!;' iron sln.u's at the end — su:n'ji,'estive of 
 <*omin,i;' trouble to some unsuspiM-tinu' comtnunity. 
 
 Ther<^ was nothiui;- very royal in the king's attire, 
 lioAvever, his only habiliments consisting of a ragged 
 loin-cloth and a dirty hmI night-cai) on his head ; but he 
 possessv's a real court dress of which he is v(MT j)rou(l, 
 and dons it only on state occasions. It was made t'or 
 liim bv one of the ladies at Cilun.i, of gav furniUu'c 
 <'hintz, fixed up with flounces and a train. 
 
 Several boys and girls from the ond)ala attend the 
 mission school, and on in(<uiring if the fathers of the 
 children sought in any way io hinder them from Ijeing 
 educated, I was sur}>rised to l<jarn that they liave, as a 
 
 
 
t(ifaimM>^' *>^V9I§ 
 
 lor 
 
 un 
 
 It ho 
 tlu' 
 
 Is a 
 
 ■A 
 U 
 
 
 
 o 
 
hi 
 
 ■■i'^S^tli^ii,^ill^^^.>Jii^^ ^■. 
 
 ■t-'*t^t1r..'%i')tt^j 
 
50C7--//. I.^IIVS. 
 
 :.l 
 
 rule, little or no voice in the iiiiittcr. Wo iiro ju'cus- 
 toiiiccl in Enjjjland and Anicricu to ]>ictur«» tlio native 
 Afriean as sitting untUir liis o\v!i "vine and fig tree" 
 with Ids liajjpy i'uniiiy circle around him; and the 
 lirilliant perorations on antislavery platforms rel'ei-i-iiig 
 to the " ruthless rending asunder," and so on, are famil- 
 iar to us all. So far as I can learn, neither our precon- 
 ceived ideas nor the allusion ap}>ly, to this ]»art of 
 Africa at least. 
 
 Tlie terrible record of ''man's inhnmanitv to man" 
 in the slave-trade is much deeper and more far-reacli- 
 ing in its cruelties than the "severing of family ties" — 
 ties, in most eases, less than nominal. For that matter, 
 they think nothing of selling one anotiier when it suits 
 them; and when, by the vigilance of liritish gunboats, 
 the slave traftic on the East and West Coasts, as carrie<| 
 on by Arabs and half-breed Portuguese, is j>ut down, 
 by far the worst form of slavery will still remain un- 
 touched, as it exists to-day among the tribes of the 
 distant int<'rior. 
 
 In reference to the social laws that obtain in Bihe, it 
 may he said that a father is scarcely acknowledged as 
 a relative of liis own child, and cjin exercise no control 
 over it. Nor can the child, on th« other hand, nuike 
 any claim on its father, except it be the child of a slav(i 
 wife; then it is the property of tli<' father, just as the 
 mother is. 
 
 When a man wislies to marry a free woman, he ap- 
 plies to her eldest ]jroth<n', and, if accepted, seals the 
 engagement by paying four yards of calico. On the 
 dav of the marriage some sixteen yards more have to 
 
>«w!»->i<w« tjma^-x- 
 
 "** \Mr-m:*i^4»'ai'u ♦. **i%^ 
 
 Wi 
 
 Hi! 
 
 52 
 
 A7.///.// Y r/.HSUS ROM^INCH. 
 
 I»<' liiid <lo\vn. At tlu' dose of tlin wcfldinj^-fi'jist ho 
 t)ik»'S Ih»iim' IIm' l»fi<l<* to Ills own villnj^f, iiiid In- ^-n\\ 
 I'diiin liis wilt' only hy pjiyin^jf Irilditc to tlic hrolhcr, 
 of ii fowl or lifinijkf'rcliicr cvt-ry new moon ; Ijiiiin;;- tins, 
 slic innsf lit' r<'tiirin'<l, and tin* <'lotli paid is foi'lVitcd. 
 Till' olTs|»rin;c •»'' tliii^ union Ix'lon;^' not to IIm- liitlicr 
 Imt to tilt' nnrlc, who alont^ias tli<i li^iit t" dispctsc of 
 lIn'Mi or tlit'ir services. Slionid lie ;ie| into del»t, lie 
 ejiM i»ass tliein over to liJH creilitors as surety, or tliey 
 niiiy Im- sold to liijuidate liis lia)>ilities. If it liapjieiis 
 tli.'il the wife t'iiiis to woi-k in the (jeld or cook the 
 **ninsli"to her sire's satisfaction, he niay dismiss her; 
 and if he ciin make j;ood his complaint hefoi'e a court. 
 of the he.idnieii of the villaj^e, Ik? ^ets l)ack the cloth he 
 piTKl for her and looks jir(»iind for a Itetter mate. 
 
 At (I A.M. on the i;;tli we relnctiintly l»id far<'We|| to 
 Ciliimi, iind strike out Wi-iskly, knowint^ that my ciiiii- 
 \iin is Ity this time a hn\\s, way ahead, an<l it must he 
 overtaken, if p(>ssil)le, hy noon, so as to select the 
 ciinipin<^-<<roniid for to-ni;;lit. 
 
 Here, iis all Ihi'oii^h the forests of Anj^ohi, are to he 
 found many artificial Ix-ejiives, made fi-om the stout 
 It.'irk of ii ti'ee four or five; fe(!t lo?i<^ and from twelve 
 to fifteen iiM'hes in diametei-. To r<'niove this l»;ii'k, 
 the iiiitives tiiake two incisions around the ti-unk and a 
 tliirtl lone:itudinally, wIm'II tlie elasticity of the hark per- 
 mits of its Itein;^ peeled off aiid assumin<x its ori<;in;il 
 form. The ed<;es ai'e then drawn to;,^ether l>y iiiejins 
 of [)e<;s and vvitli<'S, and \]\(\ «'nds closed in hy wejivin^ 
 ^rass ovei' them, ]<'avinf< a smnll hole foi- the entrnncf! 
 and exit of the ])ees. IMieso lilves arc? then [)lncod in a 
 horiy.f)ntiii position liie;h uj) amon<^ tho branclies of tho 
 
 I 
 
r.jxr* *. *^Hi 
 
 .iH/<ir^tL .11 Kn\-iNH lui.u 
 
 hW 
 
 -■*i- 
 
 Irrr.s; :m<l I'l-orii tlitMii is olif.iiiK'il mosl of tli»' wiix fx- 
 |Mii't«'il tVoiii itcii^iK'li!. iiimI LohikIii. 
 
 A >liiii'|» livf hoiiis' iiijirrli lii'iii;,'s iis to ji sln-Jitii, 
 when- Wf iiml iIm' loinls jirt- all lai'l <louii, wliilf IIm- 
 earritTs (ill lli«ii' \\atiT-;;oiirt|s ainl if>t a l)it. A! our 
 a|»|troa<'li Krafrr r.'|torls all '•orrrrt, and <'a<'li man, 
 slKHiltlcrinLC lii^ '"'I'l, falls in hi'lian lilf, as nsnal. alon;^ 
 the track; wliirli in tlii>> part of I Im- count ry nnist Im- 
 \cr>' oM, for it is worn in .-onic places fonrtccn ini'lics 
 (|)'i'|i ,inil aliont nine w i<|c, causing; Mian\' a liar"! knocU 
 oii niv internal nnilhali from the heel of the opposite 
 shoe, as hour l>y hour we thread the nari'ow ditch; 
 and, like horsi'S, \\e strike worst when tired. 
 
 {•'our more mar<'lies, To-day a connterjiart of yes- 
 terday—nothing of importance occuri'in'/, i-xcejit tint 
 (»n the fourth day \\e tra\e|ed t weiitydi\e nnles, and 
 I'eached Iswanjnlnlu at ahout ^I I'.M. Here we nin>t 
 pa \' off the men who lia\e hroni^ht us thus far— tlire»» 
 hundred and lwe|\e miles from iJeiiuuelii— and ren.ain 
 for some time to collect a new set of carriers for our 
 next sta;;e inland. 
 
 Tl 
 
 lese dejavs Ml chan.L;:inj4; caiTiei-s are very vexing, 
 
 and a severe tax <»ii patience; hut the tra\e|er is 
 entirely at their mercy, and must simply wait their 
 pleasure. A sufficient nnmhei' hein.i;' en,i;a<;ed does not, 
 hy any means imply a start forthwith. No; they liaNc 
 tl; <j;-o to tlieii- villa,i:;es, takirii^ tlie loads with them, and 
 for a cou|>l(' of Weeks they will think and talk alioiit 
 the roa<l; anotliei- ten (jays for the women to pound 
 their meal; yet anothei' week foi- a hi^ farewell heer- 
 drink; then we move off ten or twelve miles alonj^ tlics 
 intended route and form camp as a preljndnary n()ti(;o 
 
 ■i 
 
i 
 
 ; i 1 
 
 • ! * 
 
 i:' 
 
 :mMm3^.m»^sm<^^m«m*^-MmtmFm^^mtiii4i^-' 
 
 ^ 
 
 54 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 tl.at we can wait no loii^Hn-. During tlio next week or 
 two they will eonie in twos and threes until the most 
 have turned up; then another move is made. 
 
 But perhaps in the meantime rumors of inter-trihal 
 Avars from countries through which we have to pass 
 "vi.uhtiMi the whole crowd, and they lay down the loads 
 and desert to a man. 
 
 'W 
 
 i 
 
-*^ 
 
 '"'iS- 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 KWAN.TULULU AND KOMONDONGO. 
 
 An English mission. — Tiio illusion dispelled. — fJaranganzo. — Five years' 
 work. — Tlu'ir own suiicrstition best. — KrlnKs of Sen- ice. — V»'t;t'tul»l(' prod- 
 ucts. — Visit to Konroidoiigo. — The iatc war. — Cause of tlie rupture. 
 — The jieaeenuiker. — Burning; villaj^es. — Capture of Chindundunia. — The 
 mission station. — Adversitie.s.— Chronie bunmu'rs. — .Mush and beans. — 
 Courting privations. 
 
 KWANJULULU is tho houdquurtcM-s of tlie Eu--- 
 lisli Bivtlircii Mission, and is sitnat<Ml in tlio tcr- 
 ritoi'v of Bilie, Avithin a (lav's march of tlio American 
 mission stations, Koniondongo and Cisamba. 
 
 This entering;' a district already occnpitMl hy the 
 American ]\Iission has l»een unfortunate, and th(* cause 
 of no little friction. Sui'clv ther(^ is room enouixh in 
 Africa for different societies to or<i,anize missioM centers 
 without treadinu" on one another's toes! (Jod forhid 
 that Africa should ever know th(» jan,u'lin<;- and rivalry 
 of the sects so ])revalent in more enli,u'htened lands. 
 
 The Kwanjulnlu jNIission is superintended by a, Mr. 
 F. S. Arnot. ]\[y ])reconceived ideas in favor of this 
 mission havo received such a shock, as \\.vok by vceek 
 its actual condition has been laid bare, that 1 \voi.dd 
 prof(>r to draw a veil of silence over all I have seen and 
 heard here; but I am impelled, from n-.- other motive 
 than my interest in missions generally, to plead for a 
 
I 
 
 r' 
 1 1. ',{. 
 
 '■Ill 
 
 ft. 
 
 1^ 
 
 5(1 
 
 RILIUTY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 rt'forniiitioii in such (ju.-irtri-s, Irst tho dny come ■uimi 
 the cntliusijisiii aroused at liomo l)y tho liauiiii*;' and 
 ]iiu'h-<'ol()i't'(l rcjiorls of ,i;TaH<l conquests of the j^ospcl 
 will suffer reaction. Tlie supf.'oi'ters of this entei'prise 
 have lieeli le(l to contl'ihute lai'u'e sums of nionev towai'd 
 what may 1»<' ti'uthfuliy desii^uatcMl a liu,u;c I'arce, and, 
 when the manner in which lliey have been lioodwinked 
 is hroun'ht to li.ii'ht, disasti'ous reflections will l»e cast 
 upon the in)l)lest euterpiise of the Church of (Jod at 
 the [»!'esent day — forei<;'n missions. 
 
 Whatever Kwanjululu may l>e as a transjtort de])ot. 
 lis iiifluen<'e as a Christian mission is almost ///"/. l>ut 
 f''W natives attend the nieetin.u's, and next to no evan- 
 ,L;e!istic ^vork is heinu' done. N()t a sin.u'le ,u'os[)e| meet- 
 iiiii' was held for thi'ee successive^ Sundays in last 
 month, nt)r <'ame tliei'e a solitai'y hearer tVom outsi<le 
 I he compound. On Sundays, at th" usual time for 
 morninii' sei'vice the missionai"ies meet for mutual eili- 
 ficjition and " hreakMuf;' of hread": hut as this is the 
 most suitahle liour of the <lay foi uettin.u' the natixcs 
 lou'cther, the opportunity is lost. While at the other 
 
 station, ( iai'ang'anze, Mr. F , one of the mission staff, 
 
 who has just come out from that district, tells me that 
 Itut little spiritual work has been accomplished therc^, 
 the time heini;' occupiecl chiefly in makin,:."; .u'ardens, 
 huntiuii' for food, waitinu" <>ii Kini;' ]\rsidi, and pei'son- 
 tilly conductiiii;' tlu' transit of sujtplies fi-om Kw.inju- 
 
 lulu. Thus Ml-. T , one of th<'ii' hest men, has sjx'ut 
 
 twenty-one months on the road, out of* the two years 
 he has l)een in the mission. 
 
 Mr, S , in cliari>-e of the Garani;anze Imineh, 
 
 Avrit<'s: 
 
 r 
 
 f 
 
 --oO 
 
f^ 
 
 r 
 
 ■ . *: 
 
 •^•'■■^ 
 
 
 ^taferl 
 
 ;^. 
 
I 
 
 ; i 
 
 i 
 
 I . I 
 
 •Mmmmi.:i:mfmm>^-m^m^iru$^msiit»r^^n>m^^^''*^ 
 
 .y=3^s; 
 
 X 
 
""^ 
 
 Fiyn YEARS' H'-ORK. 
 
 57 
 
 " It is now nearly throe years since we came here, and 
 liow very little seems to liavo been done ! If we add 
 th(^ two years that Brother Arnot was here, it makes 
 Jirc years. What a length of time to have be«'n living 
 in the country and yet many of the natives scarcely 
 know our ol>ject in living among them! It is true, 
 and we thank (iod foi" it, that those who are in the 
 habit of coming to our meetings are beginning to 
 understand nioiT- i'learly Avhat we are here for; but 
 the gi'eat majority st'ciii to think we have some per- 
 sonal int(>rest in living among them. 
 
 "A few days ago a man who had lieard something 
 about the white man's <'Ounti'V said, 'You nuist have 
 connnitte(l crimes at home, or you Avould not live here.' 
 8om<» might think that all that is necessary is to tell 
 them you have come 'to teach peo}»le the Woi'd of 
 (iod' and th(\v would understand at once. !>ut is it 
 so :' Far from it. Von nmst first tell them who (iod 
 is, wluM'c II. s Won! comes from, how it is that ivc are 
 so iiitcrcste(i in them that Ave come to liv<' with them. 
 When vou rcmemlier that before anv of these things 
 can be told tln'iH it is necessary to learn a language 
 altogethci- (litferent from your own, without the aid 
 of vocabulary or grammar, you Jx'u'ui to understand to 
 some extent how so nuich tinic passes away without 
 any or with very few results to show. Even after you 
 fairly master tla^ language and tell them distinctly that 
 you are here to teach them about (fod and His ]>re- 
 cious Word, ycm are sometimes greeted with 'buvella' 
 or 'buramba,' the Veke and Lrd)a words meaning ' non- 
 sense, untruthfulness,' etc. 
 
 "Again, you sit down with a man and try to teach 
 
 1 
 
Ml 
 
 f 
 
 :t 
 
 
 i if 
 S 
 
 
 i; ;i 
 
 58 
 
 REALITY yiiRSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 him sometliinj? about v\^\\i and wroiij;:, and aftor you 
 liav'c linish(>d \\i\ j2;oo.s away witliout tVoliug his rospoii- 
 sil)ility to do what you toll lihu is right aii<l leave off 
 doing that wliieh you liavo sought to show liini is 
 wrong. Porhai)s tlu! conclusion ho comes to is tliat 
 their superstitions are far better than ours. lie looks 
 around, and he sees Va-yeke, Va-laml»a, Va-luba, Va- 
 lunda, Va-sanga, and a host of others, with their pecul- 
 iar beliefs of right and wrong, and A\hen he hears us 
 li(» looks upon us as one more among the rest, and 
 cannot at all see that he is responsi])le to take heed 
 to what (vc say. Of course we tell him that the Word 
 of (rod is for all people, but to tcU him is not to con- 
 v'ntce him." 
 
 Would that all the reports from th<» lirethren Mis- 
 sion were as honest as this ! Then there would be 
 
 " >r results are not in t' 
 
 fiy; 
 
 1> 
 
 of man to control; but he may, if he will, control his 
 pen and refrain from idle embellishments, exaggerated 
 an<l fictitious stories of success, that are without foun- 
 dation. 
 
 From the head of the Kwanjululu depot we received 
 several letters extolling the agricultural capabilities of 
 the district; also in the Echoes of Scrricc we read that 
 every kind of v«\getable product is grown in abundance, 
 including wheat, yams, potatoes, cabl)ages, strawberries, 
 etc. Th(^ fact is that the crop of wheat referred to was 
 raised on a s))ot of land previously used as a catth'-pen, 
 and made u]> by large quantities of earth cari'ied from 
 a neighboring marsh. Scarcely a fair criterion ])y which 
 to judge the productiveness of the soil ! At this season 
 of the vear it would be hard to find a haudful of vege- 
 
 t 
 
 ■''^.' 
 
A PORTUGUESE FORT. 
 
 59 
 
 tnn 
 ton 
 
 tation in any of tbo mission jujardons ; only durinji' the 
 brief period of the woi season can any vog«'tables be 
 j>:ro\vn, and tiien oidy by the free nso of fertibzers. 
 But tbe extravagant accounts of tbc land as a source 
 of food-supply for Avliite men were as disappointing? as 
 tbe CMiristian work we expected to tind, and as mis- 
 leading as '..uiny otbtn- statements w«; bad to dei)l()re. 
 
 On the 22(1 of June we set out to visit; tbe Amei'ican 
 mission at IComondongo. About half-way stands tbe 
 Portu,nnese fort, Silva Porto. I called on tbe "capi- 
 tan " in comnuind to present my compliments and show 
 my passport, and found him very polite and ajjjreeable. 
 He conducted me round the premises, wbere everything 
 was neat, ti'im, and ship-shape. The fort is ji^arrisoncnl 
 by a force of some two liundi-ed slave soldiers armed 
 witb Snider rifles. In tbe armory stand four field- 
 pieces, includinjA' a "Krupp" and a "Nordenfeldt." 
 
 Soon after leuvinji,- Ww fort we struck tbe wa^jon road 
 mad(> ])y tbe Boers during;' tlunr A'isit to sui>pi'«>ss the 
 late native reb(>llion. And now we travel niihi after 
 mile tbrou«;'h a country desolati^ enounb at best; ))Ut 
 since every villai;'e and buman bal)itati()n on tbe road 
 to within a short distance of Komondonj;o lias been 
 burncMl to the i»Tound, leavin,i;- nothing- but cbarr<»d 
 palisades and tlu^ ruined huts, tbe prospect is anything 
 Imt inviting. 
 
 The cause of the rupture was, briefly, as follows: 
 
 Portugal has long claimed sovereignty over Bil 
 
 le, aiK 
 
 until lately was content that her authority remained 
 nominal. Early last year a few of her soldiei-s, under 
 Captain Conceiro, were ordered inlaml, but were re- 
 fused permission l)y the king of Bih<^ to pass through 
 
 .>,-i 
 
F 
 
 ■^miimlM^^ ,>-«*«3^p^^-^,^^ J^,..>*0k4!C^:. .; 
 
 i -' 
 
 60 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 liis country. The kiii<? protested that an apjreomont 
 ])iu\ 1kh'7i iiuule lictweon liini aii<l the Portuguese j^ov- 
 crnnient that hliick soldiers should uevei- bo quartered 
 ill I'ilif— that only white people wero \velef»?U'-> to his 
 I )n- ! The natives, who had never t'elt the t'oi'c*^ of 
 L(i!'i; in firms, I'et'used to be included anioujjj the vas- 
 s-'i-; oi t II' Poi'tu^uese, and assenil^led in lar^-e innnbci's 
 to resist vvii :t tliey deeuie(l an invasion of their terri- 
 tory, itroniptly moving against the caidain, who, hav- 
 iiin' but a small "ompauy of lilaek soldiers witii him, 
 wisely retircMl, to wait for reint'orcemeuts. 
 
 In the meantime, S(f>or Silva I*oi'to, the representa- 
 tive of the Portuguese, Avlio had li\'ed at what is now 
 the fort (and from whom it obtains its name) for u^i- 
 wai'd of forty years on amicable tei-ms with the natives, 
 tlid his best to allay the fears of the chief, but failed. 
 This pseudo-insurrection having been taken up by the 
 imperial government, and his previous success in con- 
 trolling the Biheans ignored, so distressed Porto that 
 he co]iclu<ied life was for him no longer worth living, 
 doing to his magazine and arranging a dozen kegs of 
 guiipowder, he wraiiju'd hhnself in the flag of his coun- 
 try, lay down on the <'Xplosives, applied a lighted fuse, 
 an<l in a few se( onds was blown through the I'oof, 
 expiring r-hovtly after. 
 
 Portugal, still determined to punish the rebels, sent 
 Captain Piva with a company of black soldiers and a 
 force of Boers from Caconda with fifty wagons to the 
 fH'ono of action. Why engage Boers for this purpose ? 
 it may be asked. The Portuguese know, and do not 
 hesitate to say, tliat while their demoralized blacks 
 under strict supervision answer very well as })olice, 
 
lest' j''<n'- 
 [uartt'ivd 
 )'•> to his 
 * force of 
 ^ tlio vas- 
 miDil'ci's 
 leir tcrri- 
 vlio, linv- 
 vitli liiiu, 
 
 preseiita- 
 iit i;s now 
 I") for 11^1- 
 »' natives, 
 mt faile<l. 
 ii|) by the 
 ss in eon- 
 \)rto that 
 •th living-, 
 'n kegs of 
 ' liis eouii- 
 ;'hte(l fuse, 
 the roof, 
 
 ebels, sent 
 iers and a 
 ons to the 
 5 purpose ? 
 nd do not 
 sed ])hieks 
 as pohee, 
 
r 
 
 m t^3s m i k .MmmH,* 
 
 ■r*-'^>mi4iiJtf j;*;„iflMB{i»'*t-*M!j 
 
 '1 
 
 i i 
 
 1 I 
 
 : I 
 
 11 
 
 .^ 
 
 
 £!^mi 
 
 >• "'Alii -^1 n,-.'.' - ••'».. » ;•;„ : v- 
 
 
 :4 
 
BOLRS AND blHLANH. 
 
 Ill 
 
 feV 
 
 v. 
 
 ■J 
 
 V. 
 
 '^•: 
 
 
 
 without tlic lu'csciicp of u wliitc for('«» to stifT«Mi tlu'lr 
 couniji'o tlicy camiot Ix" (IoimmkIcmI ujmhi in a lianl liu'lit. 
 A rcj^iniciit of wliitc troops Avoiild only coinplicatc 
 niattt'i's, from tlicir lack of cxiH'i-ifnrc in such warfare, 
 cutailiu*;' also the, transpoi-t of supplies; l»ut IJocrs 
 l»('in<; a pcoplo liorn and hionj^lit up, it may almost he 
 said^ in wagons, inui'cd to liardsJiip, cx|»crt shots, ami 
 well actpuiinted with the j;iien-illa tactics of native 
 fijj:hts, it was decide(l to employ them, stipulatiuii,' that 
 each man take his wau'ou, cany stores, (>tc., for the 
 g'ovcrument, and provide liis own. The Boers, know- 
 in-;' that the natives, witli tlieir uncertain flint-locks 
 and cowardice, eoukl make no stand against tlieii' su- 
 ])erior Aveai)ons aud skill, looked U)»on the whole husi- 
 iiess as a pleasant picnic with one pound terling' a day 
 per man. 
 
 Mr. SauncU'rs, of Komondoii«>:o, apprehensive of eoui- 
 in<;' trou])le and anxious to avert it, if possible, visited 
 the military camp and reijuested an interview with the 
 otlicer in counnand. This granted, h<' in(iuii'e(l if there 
 were auy messa^'es he coiUd cai'ry to the natives, l»ut 
 received the curt reply, "No; we want the chief Chiu- 
 dunduma." 
 
 The foolish Biheans, uieanwhile, were prepariu,i>' f(^r 
 war, and, as a prelimiuary step to attaekiui;" the white 
 uien, ])rou,<;ht out their fetioh-doetor to put " some- 
 thinn'" in the river Kakema, that ran between them 
 aud the Portu.uuese camp, whicli would have the eflfect 
 of causiuji; instant death to the enemy should tlu^y ha\-e 
 the temerity to cross the water. 
 
 To accomplish this, the " potent sp(41 " was put in a 
 gun and with much ceremony fired into the river. This 
 
 
r 
 
 <*EAl*a»f .*-*fcMff-4w ^K^m 
 
 
 U2 
 
 RH/tUTY yr.RSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 m. 
 
 \l !' 
 
 h 
 
 tlu' Boers took as a si<>:nal for nttjick, uinl rushed up, 
 liriu^ oil tlioin, (lroi>i>iii;jr dcvou of the nuked warriors 
 dead on the hunk, the reinuinder l)eatin;; u liusty re- 
 treat. A few (hiys ufter, the Hilieuns uttacked u siuall 
 party who were en<jju^ed in (dearin^ u I'oad for tlie 
 waj;<)ns; hut th«i IJoers resi»f)nded with siadi (hwidly 
 effect that a paide seized the ussaihints und they Med 
 «>ast to the (}an<;ueHas. The hurnini;' of villages now 
 hepin, and every human al»ode ovei' a "jjreat ti'aek of 
 country, inchKhn^^ the "ombala," was sacrificed to tlie 
 fianies; the hitter is said to liuvo had a popuhition of 
 ten thousand inlud)itunts. 
 
 \ tmice for niin^ davs was now de<'lared, und witiiin 
 this period it wus re([uired that the chief he found and 
 {j;i\en \\\)\ faihnj;' this on tlie exi)iry of tlie tew (hiys' 
 «;Tace, the wiioh' of liihe would be destroyed by fire. 
 
 -Mr. Saunders lost no time in dispatchiny; mi'ssen^ei's 
 to all the minor <'hiefs lioldin«j: the i-ouds of <'xit from 
 the country, that they nii,i!cht bo .guarded and so pre- 
 vent the escup(^ of Chiiidundiima. Then, callinjjj a 
 i'ouncil of the heu(bnon, lie placed the serious state of 
 affairs before them, tlius obtainin,u' theii- help. For 
 eight days the couiiti-y round was scoured by the mis- 
 sionary and liundreds of natives, but in vain. On the 
 ninth day, however, when ho]>e was ahout j»'ivin<? place 
 to despair, the man so much wanted was discovered 
 cringed up in an isohited hut armed with a IMartini rifle. 
 Mr. Saunders entered and exidained his business, 
 whereupon the old man offered no resistance, but, sur- 
 reii(kn*ing, was handed over to the authorities that 
 same night, and is now a state prisoner on one of the 
 little islands on the West Coast. 
 
 \i '. 
 
•'*mts 
 
 ^Dn-:RSi7u:s 
 
 (>:; 
 
 ui», 
 
 iovs 
 
 ,■,.. 
 
 imiU 
 
 • [\vi\ 
 now 
 ck ol' 
 () tlu' 
 lou «>^' 
 
 within 
 ml luul 
 ; (lays' 
 lire. 
 ;,.n«j;('vs 
 lit I'loin 
 so l>v*'- 
 lllin^' J> 
 
 ^tato of 
 For 
 
 Ihc niis- 
 ()n tlu' 
 
 I 
 
 •OV0V0( 
 
 ini vitii 
 
 lusnu'ss, 
 iut, snr- 
 
 les 
 
 that 
 ot the 
 
 Missioiinrit's soin«>tiin»'s nirddK' unwisely in politiriil 
 «listurl)anr<'s; hnt in this case it was w»'ll, loi- therchy 
 much bloodshed was avei-ted and an ininiensc i.MTiloiy 
 saved from entire devastation. 
 
 |{y snnsft T reaehed K«)niondon,u'o, tired ami weai-y; 
 hut the iirarly ^ivrtiiii^- of the U'cv. Mr. Saunders and 
 the kindly welcome of his "iood wife disi»elled all 
 tlionu'lil of fatiifue. Once inside the mission house, I 
 conM easily have imagined myself in a ucnniiie New 
 lOn^'land farmhouse, hut for the cane-mat Ihtors and 
 the hiack faces of the ser\anl-hoys peerinn' round 
 corners to t;et a glimpse of the stranger. 
 
 This station was formed some eleven years ayo, hnt 
 the mission here and the one at IJailundn lias'c passed 
 throUii'h si'asons of hittei- tibial and persecution, i>rincl- 
 pally throuu'h the prejutlice and Jenlousy ol' lialf-l)reed 
 ti'adei's, who pois()ne(| the minds of the kin.u' and na- 
 tives, until tlie tei-rihle crisis in May, ISS4, when Kk- 
 wikwi, hrihed l»y <;ifts and alai'med by false reports, 
 
 ordered the exjudsion of the nnssionarie 
 
 Tl 
 
 le wlioie 
 
 party W(>re compe||e(l, with such few effects as they 
 could cari'y, to seek the coast, sulTerinii,' hai'<lsliii»s and 
 ex[>osed to dangers hy the way, ill jn'ovided as they wei-e 
 for such a jouruev, that can scarcely l»e desci'ihed. But 
 throuu'h the neuotiatious of ]Mr. Walt«'i's (a luemhei- of 
 the mi.s.sion) with the Portu.u'uese «;'()vern()r, u'cnei-al 
 letters of commendation in behalf of the Americans 
 AN ere addresse(l to the mdive cliiefs, resulting' in ih«» 
 two kiuii's exjtressin^' their reuret for what liad taken 
 ])la('o, and, promisinj;' to listen no more to stories 
 a<z;ainst the white teacdier.s, be<i',i>'(Ml them t«> letnrn. 
 What I have written coneerniny; the Jiaihnuiii sta- 
 
I 1 -t 
 
 
 ^mttifim. 
 
 '[^^^^^^-^^^'^^^-^em^KiW'^o^^ ^, 
 
 r,i 
 
 l<l:.II.ITY yi.RSUS ROMANCr.. 
 
 m 
 
 Ih!^ 
 
 > li 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 ! ! 
 
 tioii a{»f»li<'.s with ('(|U}iI truth Ihtc ;is iv'^^nivls the suc- 
 cess of tlic work. 'I'hci'c is not only souin<^, l)iit iiiiji- 
 /i)f/, tlioii;^li \()]i'^ (Jcl'ciTcd, has at last Ix'Cmiii to cheer 
 the uorkefs. 'I'wice ou Suinhiy tiic hir^^- iiieetiii<;- 
 lioiise WiiS well liilcd with attentive hejii'ei'S, hoth men 
 ami wonie'i, besides a well-attended .Sunduy-s<-hool, 
 
 held lietweeli t,h(' Sei'viccS. 
 
 Mr. Sanmlei-s Ik)j)cs in the near t'litui'e to commence 
 an industi'ial school, for lie realizes the da.ny;er ot edu- 
 cjitini:' the njitivt; lads without tejH-hinj^ them also the 
 dignity of lahor; hut the extreme povei-ty of the soil 
 in al! these districts is the oi-e;il dra \vl)ack of t'arniin<;. 
 I ol)ser\-e that the nativt'S e'ene|-;d|y select t'or theii- 
 e-;irdens ))atches shaded hy trees, or m(/ist low-Iyiny; 
 spots iieiir hrooks, l)ut avoid the hii;lier levels. Still, 
 it woidd he a e-i-e;(t achievement if the yonn^i: men 
 and hoys could l)e induced to woi'k in the fields, I'or 
 at present manual lahor — indeed, every t'oi-ni of hard 
 work — falls to the lot of the women alone, while the 
 men t)-y to amuse themselves and kill time huntin^z', 
 visiting' their friends, making a mat, a i»asket, or doin<^ 
 a little sewini;-; itut as a i ide they ;ii'e chroinc Imm- 
 mers and inveterati' idlers, not even carinc- to miii(| 
 the hahies. '^Plx'se pool' uid'ortunates, when ()idy a 
 few weeks f»ld, are cari'ied hy their mothers to the 
 field, sti'api»ed on theii- hacks with a I»il of rounii hark 
 elotli; and there they I'emain the li\-elon<^ day, with 
 the exception of intervals foi- refi'cshment, exposed to 
 the fiery rays of the sun; and whether they sleep f)i- 
 lau'^h or ci'y, theii' little heads c-o hump, hump, hump, 
 \\ith every strok<! of the toi](3r'.s short douhle-handled 
 
 ]lO<' 
 
<*<'*«ri 
 
 MUSH AND BLANS. 
 
 i\:> 
 
 Ucrr 
 
 iiit'ii 
 •hool, 
 
 he SoU 
 •Ids, \"<»' 
 
 <)l 
 
 
 ov < 
 
 )i\i'* 
 
 to uniK 
 
 I'll 
 
 on 
 
 \V !< 
 
 htu 
 
 to t^i'' 
 
 
 Witii 
 
 1 1 
 
 st'< 
 
 o 
 
 or 
 
 4«"fV 
 
 l)\in>is 
 
 
 llr.\ 
 
 A story I lu-anl at Cisairibu scm'VOH to illusti'att> the 
 position oi' native African \voni«jii. A nativo caravan 
 liound for thf coast rcHclifd ;i i-ivcr, and, the watci- 
 hcinc; pretty dccj), sonic dillicnlty was cxpci-iciiccd in 
 crossi.'ic;, when one of th(! men called tt) his wife and 
 coininanded her to carry him over on her shoulders. 
 To this she ol)(!<lientiy complied, and accomplislied 
 her task successfully. 'i'h<; husband, on hein^ remon- 
 strated with l)y a white man, asked, in astonishment, 
 "Then whoso wito should earry uh; (A'er if my own 
 don't.'" 
 
 The old !neii teacli the youn^ that to {)Iant a shrub 
 or ii ti'ce would ordy insure their doatli before it came 
 lo maturity; thus it will 1)0 soon that a^ricultui'c is 
 liiiiidiciipped from vai-ious causes, and white men, if 
 they wish to live here, must depend chiedy on im- 
 poi'trcl food-slulTs for m.'iny a loni^ <lay to ;-()me. 
 
 Europeans may c.r'isi on native; fai'o Un- ii short time, 
 but tliouj;h some pool' white moi'tals whom we havo; 
 met lately iiojist that they lln'irr upon " musli and 
 l)e;ins," their cadaverous couidenances, scaly hkin, ))im- 
 [>les, and sores that I'efuse to heal, testify to the con- 
 trary, indicating tliat their blood is impovei"islie(|, tbeii- 
 I'onslitutions l)eing I'uiiied, ;ind in a shorter time than 
 they think the penalty of their folly will have to bt> 
 paid. 
 
 I lia\'e tri.-d this native " mush," but will be hai'd 
 pressed by huu^n'i' Ix'foi'e I get reconcile*! to it. It is 
 only necessary to explain how mush is made to con- 
 \ince ;in oi'dinary intellect that it must bean indi<i:e>ti- 
 
 lilf mess. 
 
 An eai'then pot is place(| on the fire t 
 
 ire.' 
 
 ipiai'ters full of water inlo which, when hot, meal i^ 
 

 h 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 
 m 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 tlii'owii in liaiulfiils, until it becomes thick, when it is 
 at ()n<*o taken from tlio fire, vigorously stirred, and the 
 scalded meal ('ompoun<I doled out. The native takes it 
 down by the pound into his east-iron stomach, l)ut the 
 white man retires after eating a few ounces, to l)e kept 
 awake half tlu; night by i)yrosis, particularly if prei)ared 
 I'lom manioc meal. 
 
 " But it is exp«>nsive to import English food, and w(» 
 must remember we are using the Lord's money." Do 
 you tliei'eby imply that tlu^ Lord sets more value on 
 money than on the lives of his servants l It cannot be ! 
 Is it not written, "No good thing will He withhold fnun 
 them that walk uin'ightly"? And surelj^ that slumld 
 include the missionary, if he deserve the name. 'I'liose 
 who leave the comforts of home to spend their lives in 
 a land like this, were they even su])plied with every 
 luxury that money could buy, will find plenty of un- 
 avoidable opportunities for self-denial and self-sacrifice 
 without courting privation and sulfering. 
 
•itice 
 
 f 
 
''^^^■^■f^^->'Sm^sm^^^i^m>-:%^ 
 
 i»*4?*«f4W«'*5*K*CW*"- 
 
 ll I 
 
 ! ; 
 
 
 ll'' 
 
 ii 
 
1 
 
 « 
 
 
 3 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 FROM CISAMBA TO KUTUNDA. 
 
 Decide to chanp;P my route. — Cisaiiilia. — Collecting earners. — A surgical 
 oiieration, — White man's fetich. — Stvaiii^e comestibles. — Lu-rii-lu-ni-lii. 
 — Native obsequies. — Ocimboinbo. — Bacchanalian caronsals. — "On 
 show " at Kapoko. — The cornet scare. — " 1'uttinf.con side." — JSanambcllo. 
 — Court speeches. — ''A nation of the unemployed." — KeHections. — Trou- 
 ble ahead. — A lucky shot. — Prescribing for the sick. — Fourteen days' 
 delay. — Humors of war. — Native idiosyncrasies. — By order of the "doe- 
 tors." — Agi'icultui'al prospects. — A (piiet week. — White ants. — Kundun- 
 du. — Desertions. — A kind-hearted chief. 
 
 AUGUST 1st. Six weeks since the last entry in 
 L. my journal, and yet the prospects of a start east- 
 ward seem darker than ever; the f,iir promises of ob- 
 taining carriers remain unfulfilled hopes and expec- 
 tations raised one day, only to 1 blighted the next. 
 Seeing the scarcity of men, I ha\e sent back to the 
 coast a number of my packages *"or shipment to Eng- 
 land, along with several boxes It at Catambella for 
 the same reason. Still, bearer have to bo found for 
 fifty loads, all of which I deem ne<?essary to the safety 
 and progress of the expedition. 
 
 For some months past Mr. A has lieen collecting 
 
 natives to take on a party of Brethren as far as Nana 
 Kundundu, and is still booking ev< ry man he can pick 
 up. I being a stranger, and not knowing the Umbundu 
 language, the odds are against me ; the only alternative 
 
 67 
 
 r««sg» 
 
'''^^^'''^^^mmm^ 
 
 ''*'**'*^-*fei.«aPS3fe5*»«'j 
 
 RE/IUTY VERSUS ROM/tNCE. 
 
 uow is to look elsewliere for tlie means of conveying 
 my ti'iul(j (.'loth, Ijoads, provisions, etc., so as to enable 
 me to i)roceed on my journey; but move on I must, or 
 <li(! of ciuiui. 
 
 The 3d of August found me at Cisamba, thirty miles 
 northeast of Kwanjululu, my camp pitched in the for- 
 est near one of the mission stations of the American 
 Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, in charge 
 of the Rev. W. T. Currie of Canada, where a varietv of 
 circumstances which need not be detailed here deter- 
 mined a change in my route inland. 
 
 I had intended going through the Katanga country 
 and striking east to the Lakes, purposing to visit, so far 
 as my limited time would allow, those parts of South 
 Central Africa of most interest to the friends of mis- 
 sions. But as there is only one station on this route, 
 viz., the Brethren Mission at Garangar.ze, ard having 
 met two of their party just returned from that coimtry, 
 who had l)een five months on the road, seeing but little 
 worthy of note by the way, traversing for weeks to- 
 gether vast plains of burning white sand, I felt that to 
 me it would mean five months wasted. So I decided 
 to steer a course farther south, in the direction of the 
 Barotse Valley, visit the F'reneh Evangelical Mission on 
 the Zambesi, from therice pushing on to Nyasa as the 
 wjiy might o])en up. In the meantime, I set to work in 
 earn«^st to acquire what I could of the Umbundu lan- 
 guage, as iin interpreter to accompany me was not to 
 l>e had. Thus a further delay of several weeks was 
 unav(>i<lable. 
 
 Witliiii n few days, through the aid of ^h: Currie, a 
 nuinl)er of headmen from the surrounding villages were 
 
A SURGICAL OPERATION. 
 
 09 
 
 g 
 
 ov 
 
 \es 
 'or- 
 ean 
 
 yoE 
 
 oter- 
 
 initry 
 so iav 
 Boutli 
 
 )t niis- 
 vonto, 
 
 Ihavmg 
 Miutvy, 
 it little 
 «'ks to- 
 tluit to 
 
 1 oi the 
 
 j;j;iOll on 
 
 a us tlie 
 ^vovk in 
 lulu lai^- 
 is not to 
 |oel<« ^'^''^^ 
 
 Cuvvio, a 
 
 Iji'oujU'ht together and coniinissioned to collect carriers 
 as speedily as jiossihle. 
 
 I did not think it advisable to leave any of tho 
 Jamaicans at tlie Kwarijulnhi mission, tluM'e l)ein,u' a 
 ])letliora of missionaries on that station, and the cry is, 
 " Still they come ; " Itesides, several of them are s])ecially 
 adai)te<l to do the work for which the colored men were 
 intended. 
 
 At Cisamba, hoAVovor, it was far otherwise. Wo 
 found ]Mr. Cnrrie toilin<>: l)ravely, thonuh almost sinyle- 
 handed, havin<>' only the helj) of a few native lads in 
 erectinj; a dwellin«i; for hims(>lf and his collea^'U*', Hie 
 Rev. AV. Leo, Avho was 'Dcii on his way u)) fj'om the 
 coast with his young Wiie, while the Ijuildings were 
 yet far from ready. 
 
 I\Iy UH'U were heartily welcomed, and they sot to 
 work with a vigor and a will that left Mr. Currie fre(^ 
 to attend to tho many duties which had otherwise to 
 1)0 suspended — such as visiting among the villages and 
 aiding with medicine tho many sick people who came 
 every day for relief. In this department I was glad to 
 be of service, and had thereby an opportunity of ob- 
 s(M'ving tl)(^ class of diseases to which the natives of 
 tlu^ district are subject. 
 
 ]\[any interesting cases appeared, among them an old 
 man with a large ulcer on the log, that had resisted 
 every remedy — soondngly a hopeless case. On exam- 
 ination, I found extensive necrosis of the ilh'ta^ and 
 proposed to removi^ the dead portion of bone; ])ut as 
 chloroform has nin'or been administered in this part of 
 tile country, and the patient being far advanced in life, 
 we realized that there was no small risk. We placed 
 
 .j»i^ 
 
4C3Wi#»- *.v •••>**<> 
 
 i> 
 
 i:U. 
 
 H 
 
 70 
 
 RliAUTY yP.RSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 hiin, liowovor, on a table in tlio open yard, and in a 
 few ininiiti's liad liini under tlic inHiU'nco of the sciisc- 
 stcaliii^' vjii)oi", wliik* a wond('i'iii<;' crowd of natives 
 stood ai'onnd, marveling at tlie strange pi'oeeediii<i:, 
 iiiid coujecturinjjj anion*^' tlieinselves what kind of fe- 
 ticli this could Ite tliat niad(! a man submit to luiviiiji: 
 his leg cut and gouged Avitliout a iiuu'mur or remon- 
 strance. In a short tinu; the wound was dressed, iiiid, 
 tlie ett'ects of the ana!sth(;ti(^ passing otf, tlie Jistonislied 
 {Sekulo sat up, anud the shouts of surprise and gi'eet- 
 ings of his friends. 
 
 The montli spent at Cisamba has been in every wav 
 pleasant and profita])le. Daily contact with the peoi)le 
 has given me to luuhrstand a good deal of their liian- 
 ners and customs. I visited several villages in the 
 surrountiing districts, and while crossing a plain on one 
 of these excursions ol)served hundreds of Avomen and 
 children wandering about among the young grass and 
 weeds that were just springing up after the annual tires. 
 They were most of the time in a stooping posture, as 
 if looking for something, and were gathering the object 
 of their search into cala'oashes and l)askets. 
 
 Leaving the pa.th and a})proaching a group, I lieard 
 them making a peculiar noise by protruding the tongue 
 and moving it rapidly between the lips from side to 
 side, meanwhile keeping up a high-pitched monotf>ne 
 in a minor key, like "lu-ra-lu-ra-lu." IMy curiosity was 
 excited. What was it all a1)out? They were harvest- 
 ing the August crop of cater[)illars, which they dry in 
 the sun, stew, and eat as a relish with their cornnn^ai 
 nmsh, considering them a great delicacy. But why 
 keep up that peculiar cry ? Well, the insects being 
 
 ll, 
 
 ^iM 
 
*:. *^^ 
 
 STRANGE COMESTIBLES. 
 
 71 
 
 w- 
 
 svay 
 
 uaii- 
 \ tlio 
 1 ouo 
 I and 
 i aiul 
 
 vo, as 
 |ol)joet 
 
 heavi^ 
 
 .\ao to 
 hiotono 
 
 |\ty NVivs 
 Un-vest- 
 (Ivy ni 
 
 iut wliy 
 
 '% 
 
 - >• 
 
 of the same color as the grass, it was diflfioult to see 
 them; hut no sooner did the liarvesters liend to their 
 work and commence the " hi-ra-hi" tliai: there was an 
 instant commotion amon<jj the green l)l?ides, tlie ereei>- 
 ing things standing up on their hind legs and swaying 
 their bodies to and fro, when they were easily ca])tured. 
 
 The tastes of the Ovimhundu are not confined to cat- 
 erpillars as a relish, Init grasshoppers, rats, mice, and 
 every kind of hawk or buzzard may be included among 
 their luxuries — anything in the form of flesh, no mat- 
 ter what, Wliether dead from disease or killed \)y 
 themselves, it makes no difference — horse, nude, or 
 dog, if even buried and the plac*; of interment discov- 
 <'red, it may be a few days late — all the same, it is meat. 
 The idea expressed by the word "nasty" has no equiv- 
 alent in their vocabulary. 
 
 J was interested in watching the movements of a 
 funeral pro(.'ession ])assing within a short distan<'e of 
 my t( lit. The ])ody was carried in a hammo<'k dec- 
 orated with gayly colored clotli and suspended from 
 a pole carried between two men, an<l followed by a 
 <-rowd of nativ(\s , yelling and shouting at the top of 
 their voices, while gun-llriiig and beating of drums 
 a<ld<'d to the unearthly uproar. The bearers of the 
 corpse ran hither and thither among the i)eople, while 
 the witch-doctor danced around it, gc^sticulating in tlus 
 most frenzied manner, every few steps calling a halt, 
 pretending to interrogate the dead as to the probable 
 cause of death, or as to who had jmt this fetich upon 
 liim that h(^ died. Should the men controlling the 
 hammock with its burden stop suddenly oi>posite any 
 inilividual in particular, it is taken as a sure indication 
 
*aw».«|. 
 
 *wpingui 
 
 -■1 
 
 RI'.ll.ilY IHRSUS ROM.INCI:. 
 
 \t ': 
 
 !i 
 
 u -■ ■ 
 
 tli;it lliis is the guilty party, \vlio will Imvf j<> |»;iy cloth, 
 slitM']), of |iins ;is ;iM atoiii'iiifiit. i»iit in this ciisr, iil'lt'i- 
 lici-roniiinu- for jilioiit iiii hoiii', (d't' thrv went with a 
 i-iish to the hm-yiiiy-ici'ouiiil ; so it was prohahiy dt'-- 
 cidcil that the (Icccascd had swallowt'(l his own t'ctirli, 
 and lie was huriccl t'oiMhwith. 
 
 ^I^hc disposal of dead l)odi('s l»y placini^* tlicni in trees 
 si.ii'nilit's that the d-eeasecl was a stran,i;'er from unothei- 
 ti-ihe; and this nietiiod is i-esorted to in event of I'eja- 
 tions coinin;;' to in(|nire for tiie departed. Should any 
 doiilit arise as to his demise, t'ley ai"e dii'eeted to his 
 elevated restin.n'-phice, whore they may identify the 
 liody for themselves. in the eVellinti', the xillaii'e 
 w liei'e the death took plaee will he lilted with ]»eo])le, 
 an ox killed and a lti,n' feast spread, a. portion of the 
 meat Ix'inu' laid aside foi' a peaee-offerinj;' t(» the spii'it, 
 and the hoi-ns of the animal stuck on a })ole hy the 
 lifave, to.u'etlior with th<» eai'thly helonu'in.^s of the 
 depai'ted. Then for several days there will he a .u'l'eat 
 l)eer-driid<in,ii', wlien youni;' and old <2:et drunk, and 
 the in^'hts are spent in dancin^i;', sini;'in<;', and drum- 
 thumjtin.i;'. 
 
 Thes(> l.)oei' or "ocimhomho" carousals are not con- 
 fined to funorals, for at this season of the \'ear they 
 form the chief occupation of the mdives; so nnich so, 
 that it is esiK'cially difllcult to induce carriers to take 
 the road Avliile these I'evelings ai'e in })i'(\u'i'ess. The 
 rupior is made from corn soaked in water until it he^ins 
 to sjji'out, then dried a.nd pounded into meal, hoiled to 
 the consistency of thin u'ruel, an<l allowod to stand until 
 it fei-ments, wlien it has a sourisli taste with a ])eculiar 
 flavor, from the prosenoo of a juice ohtained from thi^ 
 
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B^CCHANALl/IN CAROUSylLS. 
 
 /3 
 
 uml Hindi root and added at tlie time of boiling. Tlie 
 greater part of the year's erop is eoiisumed in this way- 
 While passing the village of Kolonibanihi a short 
 time ago, I had an opportunity of seeing one of th«'so 
 orgies in full blast. Over five humlre<l natives of all 
 ages and both s<'xes were assembled within the stock- 
 a(h'; ealal)aslies of the intoxicating beverage were cir- 
 culating freely; the drummers were poun(hng on the 
 goatskins as if for their lives, about forty women a<*- 
 companying their wild chants by rhythmically shaking 
 gourds containing small hard seeds, the crowd joining 
 in the choruses between times, giving vent to the most 
 hideous and demoniacal yells. Hundreds of men and 
 wojnen all ))ut nude presented every phase of intoxi- 
 cation from mere taikjitiveness to maudlin an<l jmgna- 
 cious (b'unkenness, shutting and swaying their bodies 
 in gestures too imh'cent to describe. I turned away 
 from the sickening sight, convinced that whether rum 
 is introduced as an article of trade into Africa or not, 
 the savage already knows too well how to manufacture 
 drink for his own (h'baucheries. 
 
 In the course of our perambulations about Bihe we 
 were led to remark on the numy forms that supei'stition 
 assumes among the Biheans. One in particular w;; 
 met at cross-paths near villages and in the vicinity of 
 native dwellings, in the shape of a miniature conical 
 hut of grass about two feet high, with a door propoi-- 
 tionately small, and built by the public sorcerer. Some- 
 times it contains a little roughly carved wooch'ii image, 
 but more often only a few bits of broken pottery, egg- 
 shells, or hair. Its special function is not v<'ry dearlj"^ 
 defined, but it is supposed to scare hostile neighbors, 
 
^iu.-4i.i;. 
 
 Li f 
 
 l« 
 
 I 
 
 74 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 insure the safe return of the warriors who go forth on 
 figiiting und phindoring expeditious, and also to pro- 
 tect their families during their absence. 
 
 September Htli. At last we make a move, although 
 Ww loads are not all lifted; but even the carriei-s who 
 are engaged don't seem to believe the traveler is ready 
 to siart until they see his flag move on to the first 
 camp. Seeing this is expected, we have gratified them, 
 for here we are at Kopoko, eight miles from Cisamba, 
 with our headmen, thirty carriers, and two Jamaicans, 
 Frater and Jonathan (the others remaining to assist 
 Mr. Currie), expecting that tin? remaining loads will 
 b(^ forwarded in a few days, although how long we are 
 destined to sit in this the first camp on the road, I 
 cannot tell. 
 
 My tent is pitched by the side of a forest, in sight of 
 a nund)er of villages; consequently the last peg had 
 scarcely been driven when we were besieged by throngs 
 of natives, one and all taking a critical interest in 
 everything they see about the white man's belongings, 
 amused and frightened by turns, and expressing their 
 amazement by ejaculations of " Eh ! Eh ! " when shown 
 the mechanism of a rifle or revolver; but the marvel 
 of marvels was my little American magic lamp. The 
 next best show was dinner, laid on the camp-table in 
 the tent ; when I proceeded to eat, with a rush they 
 crowded round the door, mothers lifting up their chil- 
 dren to have a look at the, to them, strange p(U'form- 
 ance of eating with a knife and fork. Every movement 
 during the meal was watched with unabated interest to 
 the end. This over, and desiring still further to please 
 the citizens of Kopoko (as I am in want of more por- 
 
 ; 
 
THE CORNET SCARE. 
 
 to 
 
 I on 
 pro- 
 
 i wild 
 
 . first 
 tlioiu, 
 ^lUiiba, 
 
 ll'u'rtUS, 
 
 > assist 
 
 ids will 
 WG aro 
 road, 1 
 
 siglit of 
 ,00; luid 
 tlirougs 
 
 tt'vest iu 
 
 dnj; tiioir 
 eu sliown 
 10 niavvel 
 
 p-ta\Ao in 
 rush tiiey 
 their eiii^' 
 . port'orm- 
 iiiovoment 
 \ntorost to 
 r to pi<^aso 
 more por- 
 
 ters, ami among my audience are many relatives and 
 friends of the men now in oamp, en rontc with me), I 
 jjjot out my cornet. Its glitter cauglit every eye, and 
 the crowd t)n'ssed closer than was agreeable, to exam- 
 ine it; but at the first shrill blast 1 was alone, with 
 only a few of the older men. Such a stampede ! They 
 tumbled over one another in the desperate elTort to 
 escape from a sound that reseml»led nothing tlu'y had 
 ever lieard Itefore. AVhen at a safe distance, they 
 pcM'red from 1»ehind trees, and, seeing the Sekulos still 
 sitting near unhurt, and even laughing, they took cour- 
 age and ventured back again, resuming the s(puitting 
 position. To <piiet their nerves they passed the snutt'- 
 boxes, for they all take snuff, men and women ; and as 
 the sun went <lown ehihlren were sent off to the huts 
 to bring several bask<'ts of yams and meal, manifest- 
 ing in this way their desire to r<M'iprocate our friendli- 
 ness. This experience is quite bearable and even amus- 
 ing at first, but when it comes to be repeated day after 
 day, with scarcely a variation, one gets heai'tsick and 
 faint at the very sight of approaching visitors. 
 
 I went on a visit to the chief of Ko])oko by the ex- 
 press wish of my headmen ; they were anxious that I 
 should make a good inii)ression on the great man (more 
 for their own glorification than mine), and directed the 
 order of march. I must not wjdk, but ))(3 carried in a 
 tipoia, although the distance was not over a mile. ]\ry 
 trumpet<M' or spokesman takes the lead, and behind, a 
 native carrying my camp-chair, followed by another 
 with the cloth to be presented to his majesty; in the 
 rear, a retinue of the favored individuals who have 
 been invited to attend the interview. On reaching the 
 
'•^^- «*«». .r^wy5.K. 
 
 rj 
 
 !i 
 
 1:1 
 
 i''" 
 
 
 11 ir 
 
 m\ 
 
 :|i 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 ^'' 1 mnd hut) we founa the ohief busy with 
 
 paluoo a i-ound mud hut , • i^tli ; but on seo- 
 
 ■„,. «» ..m>voa.'h, he *°W^^ („^. rt,„t i, his urn.,.., 
 
 ,,,,,V, V,ut then, .s ^^"^^ t„,a ho ««« his 
 „i« h..e that I "-^^:f'^ ,:, ,ooks the peaoo 
 pl^e at the ombala -'"':;;, ,„uis, .av, an,l 
 and welfare o( the count, , " ^ '» .;^,„„,,,„ ,,.o«.,l 
 
 eo,..n,.atoao,.,nspo^.;|;;;-_.^ 
 havo ni reality \n> 
 
 au<\ country. ..i.,niiiu«- of hands and 
 
 ,V,. uevo seated annd «» '^^ I^Uo filed in and 
 
 .,„,„„,„„" of the suests and »"";';• ,,^,,,. s„„„™. 
 
 --"'■'^^";;i:■;ur;d:;.(H^-.ote„nsid,.,.od 
 
 l,ello, ,,roe.>oded ^Mtll "' 1 hitovviows that 
 
 .harmed in these fovnnd - -J ;;^. „^., t„,„„,U 
 ,,„ ,hU.s si,ou.d a .i^^^^ 
 
 ^ soeond l.avt>)l> a lo. „ ^^^^^^^.^^ ,.,„,;. 
 
 h„a ,.on,e to see the -»""*'> •'^^^.„,i ,„ „,„• .evviee 
 
 „,.« to tl>e peoide hy l'^'^''";* / „,i,h,o, etc. -, that 
 they had vendeml n,e, ^- o - _ .^^^^ ^.^^ ^^^^^^ 
 
 now I -as ahont to ^^^^^^,^ ..,„th and other 
 
 ^'""'^; "'""k.,:::^ n' . Z. «- pvin>e-n,i„iste,- tahes 
 „nlosis«.stoKananone^ ^^^,^ ^.^, ,,^,.„ ,„et 
 
 his tt,vn. H,s face, "^^ ^^^^^ hy the hnvst- 
 
 """";""■ Ttiie wZ-^ trade guns supplied to 
 ^:Lr:trt.dot.satthecoast. Herephesat 
 
 i 
 
■* «■ <^ ■ 
 
 sy with 
 
 on see- 
 f across 
 IS iiaiTU', 
 1(1 uiias- 
 
 At'vicaii 
 akin J? in 
 e fills liis 
 ho poaco 
 
 war, and 
 es should 
 >tty cliicfs 
 i- subjects 
 
 lands and 
 iled in and 
 er, Sanam- 
 oonsidcvod 
 •views that 
 >pt thi'0U5j;h 
 : how far I 
 ;hown kind- 
 any service 
 le, etc.; that 
 inteviov and 
 th and other 
 of flattevinji; 
 minister takes 
 we have met 
 hy the hurst- 
 is supplied to 
 He replies at 
 
 COURT SPEECHES. 
 
 87'eat length, stating that I ^n^ k , ^^ 
 
 Cisamba for then, t^ k^ ^ '"^ ^T ^""^ ^'^""^^ ^' 
 
 ^^-'^t I would d^:^^^^^ 
 
 ^^•''-''">l't venture into H '" ^''^'''' '"^"^^ '"^'» 
 
 '^'-'^^-thoe,:;c;^r;;r''^^^^^^^^ 
 
 -'•<! talk over nu.tters O ', T'] '" " '■"^' '^^^^'^ 
 
 instead of sayin.. '^ I, ' ? T '" ^'*^^ ''^^'^y -^ on.-o, 
 
 ^-t'- «.y i. the'hope o Z^^;:^ 7'"'' 
 wives appoarc<l, carrying, lav J ^ ^^"""'^ ^^ ^^^ 
 
 n^-, who J,ave an eno l!? ^'""'^ ^' '''''' '-^' ^W 
 
 A few minute. suCto I Twf 'l '''^ '^"•^^"- 
 word ''TwendiM"wo '^^ *^" ^^^«'^*^^« ^'"'Pty. The 
 
 -ore ceremony we take our eaverf^ '"' "'^'^"* 
 where from dawn until d^-k tiL '' ''""^' 
 
 f- ti^e giggli,,, Jabbering:.twd ;: ^^ ^'^^^^ '^ «^"- 
 
 oecupyiugevezyavaiha,]:spaTetl W, ""'"^'^^"^^'^ 
 Time hangs heavy on th< 1 7 ^'' *""'' 
 
 -"• Now and again am" "" '' ''" "^^^^'« ^^- 
 ~nity hono." me w^atr^r^^'^^"'^ ^^ ^^- 
 ^^'ith many ceremonious saint" ^''''"'^ ^""«^''^" 
 
 -^^-^ 1- speaks, and can W ?"" ' '^'^ *^ ^^^^^"^ 
 ^- 1-angue toV„j he r T "^^ "^"^^'^^'"^ ^''•- 
 ;-' that he wants Je^e V k^ '^ ^'^"^'^ ^'^•-' 
 tin-eH<], or some such trifle Bit tl'.' "'""^ ''^^' 
 «"»eraJly brings rehef as .11 w '^ ''""'^' ^^' *^^^ «"» 
 o^' '-ing out after d.rk TisTr. "'' ^ ^^"^'^^ ^— 
 populated district we " hav/ '^" "'" "^"'^^ thiekly 
 
 ofes a splendid center "mi r """ ^^^^ '^^^^' ^^^ 
 
 Septond,er 1.3th I i ""'' '''''^^ 
 
 i'>tn. bundav, or ''r<.,i;. • 
 
 '' ^ <ahmmgo," as the 
 
'fr 
 
 '^im»mm^mmmn^m*&memm'm9tf 
 
 n 
 
 : 1 
 
 
 „„tiv.-s.-Ml ,t. 1 M ^^, ,.,,„„ ,„,bv..i-s, 
 
 ,i,.,vwin '-^ '"-'';'■'•'•, 7 ,,,.., tl,...v..vUy 
 
 ^-^^'''z::zt:^^^^^^—'■r 
 
 "" ""■"'" I""'"'"' . , ,,.s,rMia„v,aiii.""«i'">"" 
 
 I ■■■*■■■' 'r"'>- '■'::;:;;::: uri'n' '-■"^-•' ''"''^ 
 
 ulisliin^' 1'"^ "" ' , ^^ ,,i,»n-('^srs 111*. '^'> 
 
 „,„„„,„sw.na.Tl.."KI" 1 ,,„v,. .PH.I so 
 
 wl,.r.n,yl..v...l..>..-l-ll.'" ' ^^^,,,„ ,„,,,.,„ 
 
 „,„,,|,js ..-'"'■"■ '"''" '''""'• ...■„„,, „!■ ,1„. .Mission, 
 
 1 1 ..1 lilt' Vill'loUS Slilll'>l'^ 
 
 iVon, .Mountun, l,uml..t ,,,„.,, ,|„.,.o, n". 
 
 ^'"'-■•■'•"'■';/''''' :::::-':;' a..niy ..■<>".>■"'■'"'■'>• 
 
 -■''■'■■'''•■"^■■':;::;.' :.'."^-' ^ •• n 
 
 .o lin. . s "n,y-i.y -»-';;-' J :,,^ 
 
 (lo,l. 11 is lolli.'!",""!""'- •"'"""" 
 
 ~;.-,.s,.,...s.M,.M«;s-H'>--;- 
 
 „„.„ui ,.y.s "...i. n.<^ «-t -.'•;,;;'-, ,„:, „„ 
 
 '■''■ "•■"''':\';:\;;::1 1 ilLn^o I- 
 
K9**r .. -^•'■f 
 
 HVfVS, 
 
 I, t\u«t 
 
 • OCO! 
 
 iW »^ 
 
 •om 
 
 \'()V 
 
 IWi) 
 
 (I'*' 
 
 \\<)U>''^ 
 
 oV l>viO 
 
 ,vcr. 
 
 it\» <" 
 
 vvu»'^^ 
 
 
 ^v<)V 
 
 a oV 
 
 t^oon 
 
 fy 
 
 ht'Vov 
 
 «riV' 
 
 my 
 
 \r.it ^v 
 
 bat t^» 
 
 JlU< 
 
 \ (Ic'^Vi 
 
 (V'<\ 
 
 sinii*' 
 
 ;>voi 
 
 (',«'« 
 
 I us 
 
 )<)V' 
 
 Vav 
 
1 
 
 .^^^^^U^-tm. 
 
 -11 
 
-^ l-U(..KY SHOT. 
 
 79 
 
 a«'l to floo ft« rriiu.}, of tiw.i.. .• • "' 
 
 ^"'•^">' j-i'iMK that no ,;;??" ^'•"'' ''*'•'•■ 
 
 «'"""^vaya,Mit.s.,uo,,;,,, '"^ ^''" .)""nn.y will i,. 
 «'"-'>ii>M.M| la,„|. ''^"-''""- "I' "»' tlii.s .lark, 
 
 'Scptj'MlJ,..,' J III, r, , 
 
 '■■■•■' i-.« iu J ; :'f' '::•■>•• '<•' - 
 
 •■"" '" - in .• :;!■:; "':;:;: '•'•"'■'■• '••■• »''-i. <- 
 
 '■"'• IV.„„ ainiisi,,., |„ „„ ' '■" '■"■'■'""MmM-.. ,„,» 
 
 '■"'••-■'^-v.™ij- ; '.:'''■v''''■'^•''^'"''»•- 
 tlMklM.,,,1,,,,.,, „!• „,„ ,.,, '"" "■"" '"■"'« 'l''..lt will, l,y 
 
 •'ii''.v or „„.i, „,:;;;„:; I*-:; ";••" " i h„, : 
 
 <'-• '• to His,,,,,,;;,, ■''';;;:'' '- ^ «■ '■""«'. -- 
 
 "»,vll,i„K l,iit ,, ,.,,i„, ■ '*-' "' '">• li'iK-. (lo„r i„ 
 
 iyi»«cio y, i„s„,, ''."''■^■^■"'•''"• -Kv .in,. «.,..s 
 
 o'-w. n,.,.,,..::7 ;:::;.;•'■;.;:, '"'"-'--'.t 
 
1,1 f 
 
 Hi) 
 
 RkALITY l^t:KSUS ROM/INCH. 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 lis 
 
 '■i 
 
 il 
 
 ol' tlio (lay all other topics worc^ forgot ton ; apiin and 
 ;i,<^'tiin they niiiniuktNl tlio picking up of tlio rillt', and 
 liifw tlu' bird tVIl with ii thu<l; to <»verv new arrival 
 lilt' wliojo 8tory was rolatctl, and tin-y were satislicd 
 there would ho plenty of meat on the road if they 
 traveled with mo. Lot us hope they will not l>o disap- 
 pointed. 
 
 At noon Kananen<^ app(Mired aeeordinp to promist^, 
 carried in a tipoia, in full dress, havinj^ donne<l, besides 
 his loin-<*loth, a lon^ bhi<*k coat with military epaulets. 
 lb' was no sooner seat<'d than ho asked for soniefhin^ 
 to drink. Having no spirits, 1 mixed a littlo chloro- 
 dyne in water and pivo it him, whi<*h he evidently ap- 
 preciated. I tried to interest him in the usual way, 
 and i>r«'sented him with a box of mutches on his de- 
 parture. In the oveniuju: his secretai-y came to tho 
 camp with several men otferinj:: their services as ear- 
 rieis. I closed the various duties of tho day by pr<^- 
 s<'ribin^ for eijjhteen sick people; sevei'al of them were 
 cases of fovor, but the majority skin disease very diffi- 
 cult to <lia^noso, us tho problem is to decide whether 
 th«' incrustations are from within or without. 
 
 I was surprised at the extraordinary i>r(jvalen<'(> of 
 goiter, some of enormous size, affectin*:: chiefly women 
 and childn'U. I should say it is (piite within the mark 
 to put th(^ porcentap) at forty-five. They have to 
 thank Dr. Lowe, Professor Simpson, and the directors 
 of tho Edinburi^li Medical Missionary Society for the 
 benefit they received from the medicines ; for had it not 
 boon for the liberal supply of drugs presented me by 
 tluit noble institution, T might hfive had to refuse aid 
 to many poor sufferers I have helped since leaving the 
 
RLMOKS Oh IVAR. 
 
 HI 
 
 au«\ 
 ■v\vul 
 isUod 
 
 t\u'y 
 (\\sal»- 
 
 iMitly up- 
 ,u \<-^^ •^''■ 
 
 m^ to tW' 
 
 »y i»y V^"*^" 
 
 vory «Vim- 
 [o wlu'tliov 
 
 kit. 
 .fly ^v(mu'U 
 
 .y Invve to 
 [le aivoc'tovs 
 ^ety fov tl^« 
 .. had it not 
 
 [iitod w<^ ^>y 
 o Yofuso a\a 
 leaving tlie 
 
 (•oust, l>«'Hi(l»'.s n>i>l('nisliiiij; the stock of sovorul luission- 
 arit's short of (|uiniin», luiisors, etc. 
 
 ScptcMiilu'r L'lid. \\\' havo Im'cu Ium'o now fourtt'cn 
 (lays, ami diirinj^ this time iiavc tasted to the full the 
 hittcriiess of culliM.'tiuj^ earriers anioiijr these wrctelaMl 
 [jeople — Olio (lay rationing and ])ookinj; a nninher of 
 men, the next eaneeliuK as many. I had hcen toM that 
 when a native takes rations and ties his stick on a 
 load, liC! I'arely, if ever, retracts; this is sheer nonsense, 
 as the Bihean (and subse(iuent experience of months 
 with a hundred of them «;ave nu» no reason to alter my 
 opinion) is influenced l»y neither conscience nor prin- 
 <iple. His acti(>ns are controlled l>y the basest of mo- 
 tives, selfishness and superstition c<)minj? out ahead 
 every time. We were to have stnrted on the I7th, hut 
 the child of one of the headmen fell sick, and the cause 
 had to be in(piire(l into by the tedious process of con- 
 sultiuj:; the fetich-doctor. Another headman came to 
 s!iy that his men refused to jro because news had 
 rejieluMl them of war in the (ran.ujuella <'ountry, throu}j:h 
 which W(! have to pass, about four or five days' march 
 from here. 
 
 This nniy be true, as I understand the Portuguese 
 nre fijjfhtinjjj amon;^: the tribes east of the Kukema 
 Kiver; but as I do not intend to side with either 
 party, and my carriers know it, this is a paltry ex- 
 cuse. They are arrant cowards, every man Jack of 
 them. Around the camp-fii'e they vie with each other 
 in boasting of their bravery and prowess, but, like big 
 overgrown children, run at the first appearance of dan- 
 ger. I promise to go on ahead each day to se(? that 
 the coast is clear for them ; and after a long palaver 
 
'li:: 
 
 W-* 
 
 , 
 
 n 
 
 ! I f 
 
 
 REALITY yERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 they cousent to start to-morrow. The vexing repeti- 
 tion of this sort of tiling day after day is enougli to 
 drive one mad, seeing tliat several of my loads are still 
 to be lifted, and the rainy season approaching, when 
 the lowlands vu route will be flooded. 
 
 But I resent the idea of my plans l)eing defeated by 
 a pi^ople exhibiting the most despieal)le traits of «'har- 
 acter ever heard of. Oh, how they enjoy treading on 
 the white man when they think he is cornered, or in 
 any way rnder obligation to them! Some will come, 
 have their names i)ut down, and just by the way sug- 
 gest that they hav^e a little desbt that hinders their 
 starting right away, but that a piece of cloth would 
 scpiare matters. We are not caught, however, an<l 
 they return »io more. The result would liave been the 
 same had they got the cloth, but my <»hagrin wouUl 
 have been greater. Yesterday, my cliief "pombiero," 
 Hanambello, whom I trust most — which is not saying- 
 much — arrived with his men and their loads, telling me 
 the others would come on to-day. For several «hiys 
 we have had two women pounding corn for our own 
 use, so that we have now a good supply. I decided to 
 go on to Ciyuka to-morrow — eight miles — and sent a 
 notice to that effect to those in the rear. 
 
 September 23d. Hiring a dozen women to carry the 
 uidifted loads, we started for Ciyuka, arriving there at 
 11 A.M. I pitclied my tent near a small stream, and 
 stacked the loads with an awning over them, as there 
 IS every indication of rain. I lost no time in paying 
 a visit to the chief, Ohosi, and found 1dm in a small 
 hut within a skerm of brush, but outside the ombala, 
 as he is sick, and the spirits of departed chiefs gave 
 
r repeti- 
 
 lOUgli to 
 
 i are still 
 ig, wlieu 
 
 eated by 
 ; of ••luvv- 
 adiiig on 
 nnl, or in 
 nil come, 
 way sug- 
 lors tlioir 
 )tll Avould 
 over, and 
 e boon the 
 rin wouUl 
 pombiero," 
 not saying 
 , telling me 
 veral days 
 n- our own 
 decided to 
 -and sent a 
 
 to carry the 
 ing there at 
 stream, and 
 3m, as there 
 e in paying 
 1 in a small 
 the ombala, 
 chiefs gave 
 
 
 AGRICULTURE. 
 
 him no chance to get betecv while i„ hi. „ , 
 houce rhe isolation by „,,1,.,. ' !, "'" ''°""'" = 
 
 tl'o yonngest potty ,.„e,. '"' ''"'•""•■'• "" i-^ 
 
 tlm.ty.flvc ■ of ,li,„ , , ""■" «"«'-P>'"l>ah]y al,o,„ 
 
 >^^ i« i^z::T^:j:t''''-'^- - 
 
 -'''O'' ™u.c the usual cZ' 't;™^' '•"'•'''''''•^■' 
 l'">-l>oso of our visif vi, , ■ """■"" *"''' Hk' 
 
 ™i.I.I .10 whatev,.,- ]„,- i, "" '•'•'''"■'' t'"'t ho 
 
 7;™- Of hi. people h/o:^::::; 
 
 ■;' -.'OK that ha,i,„,,o ,,,;'''';•;''■"'■■•-; 
 
 '"■•'J cou.e so near I,is vill-,,., ,• , ' "'"^ *-''"'! I 
 
 "'''•; -tai„ away his si:.;!;;:;to;;:, ;:;'''"■•'''''' ''^^ 
 
 •iilvisors had f^,,!,,, j , .' '""""I' hi« ow„ „,..,li,.,,i 
 
 "■'''•" l«''«gla.lt,,,iu,, ,:,,,,,, ;'''"'■'"» 'I-im', 
 
 ainenahl.. to t.-eat»,ent Hi. , """' "" " '•"''^- 'I'"*-' 
 
 ;»rt"n"te for „, as, if Veiiovor: ;:;;v,''''' •'■' "'■"^■" 
 
 '"". to render the ai,l wo noo,l V "'"-■ ""'"<'° 
 
 "s a fine Uaek Roat -m,,! , i , '' """■"'»« I"' sent 
 
 <>*■ y-..s an,, sC ; ;:;:t"-''' ";■ "-"^ """".i..-o 
 
 tl"; vilh,,.os for sale "" '""" '^'■""«''t tVon. 
 
 Tiie elevation of Civntn ;„ i 
 
 '''•■'-■-■tO-.eneral,vr:r,ti"'' '"""■''' '■^'■*- ' 
 
 ■^"«--'-n..o, .ncalios", ea s.? , "'""•--'-.t on Ui,,o. 
 
 --'i-atoesscen/toth™ ::;;:'' '''r^:--''"^' ■■•'■'' 
 ■'"■■ ■■'"J-«-l'o.-e ciso since leavL! r ', , '"■'""■'• '"'■■<' 
 -™ '.ananas or piantains 1 ,^, ,7-7"'''"" '"'- «e 
 
 l-y «■<■ American nn-ssion.ries 7 ' "'■" '"■™ """'" 
 ;'-"*^'l'P'»nted,son,o ,:;;'■"''"- then,,,,, 
 
 '-■<• "S yet yiel„e„ „„ ,,„ '"' "^^'^ --^'ears, they 
 ^Vost Indies each sncl<cr " j. '" "'" '''''•""'•^ "^ *'■« 
 
 ^">">Ws a bunch of fruit within 
 
84 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 ) I 
 
 If' 
 
 '■fi 
 
 !:ii!i 
 
 ; 'ill ' ■ 
 
 twelve montlis from the time of planting.) Every care 
 has been taken chiring the winter months to keep out 
 the frost by wrapping each plant in grass; still, the 
 leaves and center shoots are exposed and get blighted 
 by the black trosts of July and August, and are thus 
 prevented from ever reaching maturity in these regions. 
 
 We are not annoyed l)y crowds of natives here, the 
 chief having forbidden their entering our camp, except 
 on business — a happy contrast to the miserable tinie 
 we had at Kopoko. Here we are not in such a huri'y 
 to advance ; I should almost enjoy a couple of weeks' 
 stay, but there is something wanting. Week in and 
 week out I see no white face, and the longing becomes 
 intense to have some one with whom to talk and con- 
 sult over matters. Prison-life could scarcely be worse 
 than this monotony, for there, at least, we would have 
 something to do ; here, the chief employment is hunt- 
 ing ui» carriers, and this nmst be equivalent to the 
 treadmill. Even the companionship of books is denied 
 me, having had to send most of them back, to lessen 
 the weight or number of my loads. 
 
 The white ants are a constant source of trouble; they 
 are everywhere ; there is nothing they will not destroy 
 if within their reach. Last night they succeeded in 
 cutting the bottom out of my camera case, and made 
 a hole eight inches square in the tarpaulin that serves 
 as a ground-sheet for my tent. Only by moving every 
 article at least once a day, or placing the goods high 
 above the floor, can anything be preserved fi'om these 
 pests. Fortunately, there are no grass lice or ticks, as 
 in the West Indies. 
 
 Two carriers came in for loads, and there is prospect 
 
y care 
 >p out 
 
 11, the 
 iglited 
 e thus 
 >gious. 
 re, the 
 except 
 e time 
 
 hurry 
 weeks' 
 in aud 
 leconies 
 lid cou- 
 c worse 
 Id have 
 s limit- 
 
 to the 
 3 denied 
 o lessen 
 
 »le ; they 
 : destroy 
 ceded in 
 lid made 
 [\t serves 
 no- every 
 ods liig'h 
 oni these 
 • ticks, as 
 
 ! prospect 
 
 ^'LNDLXDL\ 
 
 S5 
 
 <'t' "lore to-n,onw. But thi."f 
 
 .^-^^^^^'-'i^-vord from tl. ] of ?•'""" '^ ^^ "^'^^ 
 
 ""^•^-- -»- future tin. . o I ?' '" '' ^""^'>' 
 
 i'><'>-Mi„.o,I„.vnifl,t. v„„„. . ^ '"*^ "' " Si'eat rate 
 •-'"'•n.. „s l,i, tvi,.,„I. ., „ T '^ '""' «1'«*-^ of My 
 
 j'*ov,.h t,.i... , ...,.0, „ t ; *T, ^■"'""•^- ^vi'i. ii„.,„ 
 
 "'"' •^'"- («".l) tl,..v ,. , ' T ""■ '■•'"'"• "'-,, 
 "' """^"-^ "> ""■ M.isl,, I . " "'" "'■""" "••*!»« of 
 
 '""-■".'r. 'n,; ,,,,:,,,,;;:;,,;•';;'- took ,„„,„,,., 
 
Pi I ^^ 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 86 
 
 Ri:.ll.lTY lliRSUS ROMAh'Ch:. 
 
 l)it'i'o, so that I lM'y:iii to fVel almost happy at this ■•jft 
 ill th(^ (hirk cloud and bvij^htciiiii;;' of my prospects. IJui 
 l)y noon the I'litiu'c bocanic blacker tiiaii ever. J was 
 informed by Sanambello that ei<;'hteen loads had been 
 broiiu'ht back, and that the carriers had deserted, iii- 
 chidiiii;' nine engaged at Cisamba and the live from 
 Kopoko. 
 
 Kaiianene is at the root of this; his men would iu)t 
 have abandoned their loads without i)ermissioii. It is 
 evident that my siis[)i<'ions of his Ix'iiig a cunning and 
 two-face(l rogue Were not uncharital>le; and unless we 
 get the others away from the vicinity of their villages, 
 this will not be the end of the desertions. lint 1 will 
 not linger over the recital of the terrible heart-burnings 
 that have fallen to our lot in thi>^ the commenceim'ut 
 of our journey, as it has been the experience of almost 
 every traveler who has sought to peiu'trate the unf'iv- 
 (pieiit<'(l regions of Central .Vfrica. On exjtressing to 
 Ohosi, who was stan<liiig by wIkmi the loads came in, 
 my i>uriK)se of striking canij* and marc-hing on aiioth;" 
 stage above, he i)rom[>tly turned round to a band of 
 his young men who were near, and ordered each one 
 to take a load and follow nie to Kutunda — nine miles. 
 In a couple of hours we were on the road, (\scorted for 
 several miles by the chief, whom I shall ever remember 
 with feelings of respect and gratitude; he has truly 
 Iteeii a friend in need. 
 
 We reached the camjting-ground late in the after- 
 noon. Leaving Frater in cliarg«s I went ofif with two 
 of the headmen; when sent alone I find that they get 
 into a village, beer is on the tapis, and business has 
 to yield to pleasure. "We were fortunate enough to 
 
 ii:,i 
 
LS vifl 
 
 . r.iit 
 
 T \vas 
 
 •cl iii- 
 V I'rom 
 
 lid not 
 . It "is 
 ill};' aiitl 
 ilcss Ave 
 rilhiji't's, 
 It 1 ^vill 
 
 iHTiiieiit 
 il' almost 
 ic iiut'i'v-- 
 'ssiuii tt> 
 canu' iiu 
 1 aiiotlu'i' 
 l)aiul of 
 each out' 
 ino niili's. 
 •ortod for 
 roiiu'iHl»er 
 has truly 
 
 the after- 
 ; witli two 
 
 it tluT ^^'t 
 isiiiess lias 
 
 eiiougli to 
 
 m'l' ^ 
 
 mm 
 
m 
 
 i: '\ i 
 
 u ■ I 
 
 1 f ■ 1 ■ 
 
 If '5 
 
 1 
 
 : ,i (i ! 
 
 ' hi 
 
 i iii ! ! 
 
'■OtWOWo- CORN. 
 
 Iinpiwii upon a vill.. , ^' 
 
 '' -"°"-y matt,,,,: t.,t, """'"""'"• ""'■"■ 
 ;"•« 7i'lo.n.,l to „o„„,, ,:."/'"' "°»""' "t -o.k «i,o 
 
 '«^^«" fror,, that „„,,.„,;; f"; '■«■ I '«.ve U„.„ ,.,.. 
 
 *•'- day. „„ „,, •• • Un,. „„. „ ,,,.^ ^,,^,_^^ » 
 '-^t t'le .sa,.,o ti„„. |„ ,'. '" , '"'f » ynl of ,.ali ,,,, 
 
 '»»P of .ueal as the .c.ult ' ' "'"' "'■' ^"'^^' -Juit" « 
 
''•»«« *Bl.7>t 
 
 fiir 
 
 ■' I 
 
 f ^^i 
 
 \i 
 
 1! 
 
 !! 
 
 CIIAI'TEU V. 
 
 AMON'(i Tin; (JANOl'ELLIANS. 
 
 My ftivfivnn fomjilctf. — l''iic<' to fii'-c with ii lion,— A tlitinilf'i'storm. — r'ros-<- 
 iWii llic KiikciiiM. — Nolliiinj lor (liiiiH'f. — A t,'riiriil concert. ^ — A |iroiiii>iiii^ 
 liclil. — I'clly riilcCM. — \uiiiliy-i)(iiMl)y.— I,ti(ly inissiopiiric>. — Triiiiicil 
 iiiii'scs. — A wiltl <"hicf. — (iani^inllijiiis. — lliiinlrcssiiii: i\tnionli[iiiry. — 
 l''cticli '•liiiriiis.— A line coiirili'v, — li'oii-.sriieltiriK. — I'lilnvcrs anil jiif^s.— 
 'I'lic Kuiin/.ii Uiscr. — A wrinkle in rivcr-cro>.sint;.— Niitivc iliind ol' 
 Iviropfiins. — A curved stockaile. — A str!int;e |iiienoirienon. — Fevei- in the 
 ciinip. — liini|iin^ intociiin|i. — In tlio wilderness. — UnMier re^^ions. — 'I'lie 
 iioiiey liird. — l'jctureH<|lle IiiiIh. 
 
 OCTOIiKK 1st. Tlumk Cod, iiiy f-nnivnii is cojii- 
 |)l('t(' — iiiiH'ty-scv<'ii pci'soiis iill told, iiicliidiiii;' 
 iil'ty can'K'i'.s, ('i<;lit j»oiiil)i<'ros, iind thirty-six yoiitlis 
 ojirryiiijjf iiu'al Jiiid salt {iiid drit-d fish for the iiicii. I>y 
 ♦ hiyhrcnk this nioniiii<;', jiiid with ii licjii't li^ditcr thiiii 
 it hus Ix't'ii at any tiiiic dui'iii<c the liist Ihrco months, I 
 j;ladly took the lead, an<l marched out of Kutunchi ; the 
 iiK'ii, too, sccnicd in <;ood s[)irits, tVn- all aloii<^ tln' line 
 they saiij;' in noisy ohoi'us, as they trottod on with their 
 sixty- to ('ii;hty-f»onnd loads on tlx'ii' slK)uld('rs. I had 
 wjilked foi- ahoiit an lionr at a hrisk pace a stonc's- 
 thi'ow ahead of the fla^, throu<^h a forest, my mind fnll 
 of the pleasure of at last efTeetinjic Ji fi>i>' start, when my 
 reflections wen; rud<'ly interrupted, and I was involun- 
 tarily l)rou<?ht to a halt by the sudden a[)i)arition, ri/^dit 
 in the path, about fifty yards ahead, of a full-<;rown 
 
 8H 
 
I 
 
 •r(>ini''iiit; 
 - 'I'ruiiif'l 
 (liiiiiry. — 
 III iiius.— 
 
 (1i'c;mI <>r 
 
 vcr ill 111'' 
 
 IIIIH. — Tlic 
 
 is coiii- 
 iclinliiii;' 
 youtlis 
 ni. liy 
 tcr 1)i!in 
 
 K)UtllS, I 
 \(lii ; IIk' 
 • til*' lint' 
 :itli their 
 s. I liJid 
 
 I Ht()ll<''H- 
 
 miiKl full 
 when my 
 iiivoluii- 
 ion, vij:;lit 
 nll-frrowii 
 
 «••■'" — .ii.s.m,..,. i„,„,1"";"; '• •">■ «•-'..•...■..,■ 
 
 •''■•■'»• "l...n l,i,„; ,„„ ,,/'"'"•*''"■"»""■(•.„■,. I, „„„,, 
 
 ••"''' '■'■'•-'•''■'^^'n,„;''';r ''■"';''■•'•' "■■■"'".'•■.I,..;, 
 
 "■'■'■'■■'■^ ''■'••■••' nHMv,.i,,i,ro;' 7'"^ '■''''" ''I'-'"- u,,. 
 
 '■:•'•■"• '^•-■"'■'. i. ; : :;; r'?: "•■• '■' '•■ - 
 
 '' ■>• """..i.Ts„„,„ ,,,,•',"•' ' "■' '■■>■■ u .....s,. ,, 
 
 '"""■n,iir„,,,„.„„.' ■"'"•■•...■..„„,„„,,, „^,, 
 ,/"•"■'"■'■-''• ^^■. J ::. ,'?''''-^' ''-•-"•' '../.I. 
 
 '-■ ''i's ., ,.,„,, ,„„:"„.;'■'■'< -T ....„„■„,,,,.., 
 
 riicin /.!•<. -..-..I . "«'r,ih/(. ,',|,oii,..j I.. . 
 
 
]' 
 
 P i. 
 
 I i 
 
 !! ! 
 
 \H) 
 
 Rh^U/Y yi:RSUS HOM/tNU:. 
 
 has*' of tliirty fci-t. AV«' n-iiclicd tli»' Kukoina River at 
 !>..'»() A.M., an<l .st'VJ'nil liourw Ix-in^ occupicfl in f'«>n"yiii^ 
 <>iir ji»'0|»l<' acioss, wo derided to ^o no f'aithei" to-day, 
 esj>e<'ially as the omhahi of Oii^aiidii was <'lose hy, snr- 
 I'oiinded and sha<h"d hy heautiful trees, eallod l)y th«* 
 iiativfs " ulenihi." 
 
 The <'hief, Cipopa, invitt;<l us to stay in his vilhi^e, 
 proinisin;^ to provide huts for theine'ii. Notwithstand- 
 m> very stronj^ ohjections, for many reasons, a;::ainHt 
 eaiiipin^ in u strange vilhi|?e, I wuh so fjivorahly im- 
 pressed witii tliis man's ii]»pearanee and manner, that I 
 ueeepled his hospitality, and forthwith ha<l my j^oods 
 stacked and tent pit(;hed inside the stoekade. All was 
 snu^', and I was just liavin^ an audience with the kin<r, 
 when Frater whispeicd in my ear the commonpla<'e re- 
 mark that there wan nothing foi' dinnei- ])ut desiccated 
 soup. This sfufT tastes to me now very much liki^ 
 desiccated j;lue, an<l I d(!ci<led to ^o and look for sonu;- 
 tliJ!!;^ more palatable. 
 
 Two youn<^ natives volunteered to take me where 
 <;ame was to he found. Following my f.(uid<'S, after 
 walkin<; ahout live miles we caini! to a valley oix'nin^ 
 out to a vast plain; and sure enou<;li, ri<;ht before us, 
 about six liundred yards, were four oryx and two 
 Lech we antelopes peacefully browsinj^ on the youn.i^ 
 ijrass. Althoufj^h we lay flat on the j^ronnd, tlie <j:rass 
 was too short to cov«!r us, and in an instant tlu-y si<;lited 
 us an«l were ofT. For two hours we tried eveiy stratajijem 
 to <;et within three? liundred yards of them, but in vain ; 
 ^'\■vvy attempt to <'ircunivont them fail(;d. It was of 
 no use; there was nothin<; to hide us from their keen 
 sight. At last I thouj^ht of attemptinj^ a long shot, for 
 
 ! 
 1 
 
 f 
 
A (,R/tNl) CONCI.RT. 
 
 91 
 
 w 
 
 'r«? 
 
 Id" 
 
 Ms, 
 
 \V() 
 
 111! 
 
 ISS 
 
 hMl 
 
 'III 
 
 II 
 
 Ot 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
 k'Ti 
 
 (»!' 
 
 I was liun^vy, Imviiipr ont«'n iiotliiti<( sliK-o .■)..'»() a.m., ninl 
 it was now 4 I'.M. \\\\\ alas for my (liniK'i! Tlioiij;li \ 
 ail,jiist»Ml the si<;lit <*an'l"ully, took st,«'a<Iy aim, and lin'«l 
 H<'V«M'al tifiH'H, tli(! hull<'ts «lro|)[n'<l far short of tlio ;;aiiu'. 
 This was mystt-riouH until I rxamiiMMl on«' of thf if- 
 mainiii^ cartriil^fs, and found that th<>flrm from whom 
 I obtained th*' ammunition had rru^'lly mad** u(> a))out 
 lialf Iht' ord»'r with sidir stock, practically worthless, 
 the firinf::-I»in hn-akin^ through the rotten cai>s at every 
 shot. Tilt) powder was decomposed and clo<;;;;;ed in 
 the shell, and the hrass <;i'een with cori'osion. I>isap- 
 jjointed, we tui'ned hack, and ;^ot to the omiuda just as 
 it was ^ettinj^ daik. J found a lar^'e pi<^ tied up l»y my 
 tent, and*1he chief with his suite s(|uatted round, wait- 
 in<^ my I'cturn, to pi'oceed with the palaver and {n-esen- 
 tation, which w.is duly pei-formed with all the honors — 
 claj>pin«4 of han<ls and speeches. 
 
 The pij^ did not live lonj;; a poi'tion of the jtork was 
 reservcfl, aufl tho balance j::iven to tlie headman foi- dis- 
 tril)Ution. TIk; pi^ liusiness over, and while dinnei- was 
 preparinjj:, I entertained the villagers ]>y exliiltitini,^ my 
 curios. I produced the corimt and l»e<;;an to play *"\Vay 
 <lown upon tii(! Swanee Kiver"; l)Ut there was sucji a 
 rush for the " boxes "and " front seats," that a free fi^lit 
 was imminent. . 1 feared the tent mi^ht come to j^rief, 
 for already several had been sent sj>rawlin^ })y trippin;^ 
 on the rojtes, so T was oblij^ed to play the nati()nal 
 anthem and brinjif the coneort to a close. P»ut moro 
 hearty shouts of applause, rin<^in<]^ lauj^hter, and ex- 
 pr«'Ssions of siniph; delij»lit T have never beard; audi 
 feel ha[»py that in spite of my weariness T nuiy have 
 been able to ins])iro these peoj)le with a measure of 
 
OJ 
 
 KI,-tlllY I'i.KSCS R()\t.l\<.i:. 
 
 (••inrKlclK'C towiinl white tm-ii, t'oi- their expedience of 
 KliropeailS, l>eili^' eoillilied to hlllt'-hleed I'ortU^UCMO 
 llithel'to, lllis hud the ve|-y opposite elVret. 
 
 Ahollt ei;^lit o'clock olie of the old men of the villne;e 
 eiiiiie olil to wliefe the londs Were piled ||p, nild ill U 
 loiid N'oice proclniiiied that the "ocindele" (white nmii) 
 WHS the ^iiest iiiid friend of the chief; uihI should imy 
 one fijire to disliii'l) the strnnpT, his londs or people, 
 the triins;;ressor would feel tiie full f(»rce of ('i[M»pir.s 
 u I'iith. 
 
 Next nmrnin;:, ity dfiyli;;ht, the chief cjuiie to see ns 
 <A'\\ iiiid l»ewM,ed nie to intercede in liehidf of his son, 
 who li.-id Iteeii cjiptiu'ed l»y the kill*; of ji country tlud 
 lies ill (»nr ronle. I |troniised to hear the case and do 
 what I c()nld to have his hoy set at liheity. With 
 many adieiix we parted, firnily convinced that, so far 
 as we can judj^e frmn what we see during the hrief 
 pei'iods (»f onr sojourn anioji<^ these Oaii^^ueljians, no 
 more inviting- or more needy liejds exist anywhej-e. 
 The dewi-iidiiii-' elVects (»f conta<*t with the half-casto 
 traders have not l)een felt here as in liilie; nor d(» they 
 travel as the IJiheaiis do, hence are still coni}»aratively 
 fret' from the vices of the coast. 1'he ])rospect is all 
 the m<ti'e pi-(»misin^' in that (lan^Miella is composed of 
 detached col d'ederat ions lunh'r the Jurisdiction of petty 
 rulers, allowing Tiiore indepeiid<'nce to tlie jx^ople; also, 
 peihaps, because oi' the weakness of tliese small com- 
 munities, war and hloodslied is less fre({uent tlian 
 under the i^'overnmeut of autocrati<' chiefs, wlio niain- 
 tain their claims over immcnise territory by slieor force 
 of uvins, and gratify their prido of savage power hy a 
 reign of terror and cruelty. 
 
W-tMHY-l'^tMHY. 
 
 !>; 
 
 lis 
 
 'II, 
 lilt 
 
 itll 
 
 iir 
 
 firf 
 
 ll<> 
 
 ft'. 
 
 list<^ 
 
 IlK-y 
 
 <'iy 
 
 iiii 
 1 or 
 
 tty 
 
 Iso, 
 )lll- 
 Ihiin 
 liti- 
 
 •y 'I- 
 
 lit tu) (M»imtry on llif coiitiiit'iit wImtp su<*1i jxttcn- 
 tatfs \vi»'M tlirir Ituiict'iil swnv Ims mission work miKlr 
 tin* sli^lit«'sf licudway — not «'vcn, in sum*' instiiiicfs, 
 \vlit'i-«' a ((iiurtcr of u ('<'ntiiry lias licfn sjM'iit in iiiirf- 
 niittin;^ ciroil l)y inissi(Hiaiit'S rfsitlrnt anionj;; iIh'Iii; 
 wliiln ill roiiiiniinitit's wIht*' liltiity of r(»nsri«'n<f i 
 iiIloNVtMl, ^(('nniiH' «'on\<'i'siuns liavt- taken |»lar»' witliin ; 
 t't'W y«;arH of <M»nini»'n('('nn'nt of the mission. W'liuli- 
 Kalo conversions in totally m-w HcMs have lie.-n !••- 
 porteil within a. few months, liiit investigation has 
 generally revealed the fact that a ehi<'f of soni«5 iinlivid- 
 uiil in au*'iority has taken the initiative in outwardly 
 uc(iuicscin'; with the white man's tea<*hin;;s, when their 
 I»cr)l»l<! necessarily follow suit, iJnt a profession of 
 ('hristlanity umler siieh eii-eiimstanees l»y no means 
 warrants their l)ein;? called convei-ts. 
 
 Not every one, however, who may choose to volnnteei- 
 for such a work need cx])ect to suc<'ccd. If his ]al»<»i's 
 liave heeii unsuc(!cssful at home they will ite more so 
 here, wh(;r() the liindraiiccs to he ovcn^ome are inliniteiy 
 ^•cuter. A special fitness oi* adui)tiibility is recpiired 
 of tlu! man who would he a pioneer of missions in 
 Africa; he must possess indomital)l(! zeal, sti-onu-. iin- 
 \vaverin<^ fuitli, ^ood education, sound jiidtcment, j»iac- 
 tical <'ommoii sense, ready wit, an<l tact in dealiii;^ with 
 the iiativ<'S — iu a word, e\ei'y inch "a man." We liave 
 already met too many namhy-pamljy, useless \'olun- 
 teers posin<^ as missionaries in this countiy ; wasting' 
 time and money, accomi)lisliin<r notliin*;, mentally and 
 physically incapacitated for <jri"Jipplin<? with the inini- 
 meral)le difficulties wliicli present thems«'lves at every 
 till"!), in the shape of sui»ei'stition, pi'ofound i<^norance. 
 
''I • '. 
 
 i)4 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 ill 1(1 yet unlimited ooiiceit in the superiority of their 
 rciijiious beliefs over that of their teaelier, 
 
 We cannot see eye to eye with those who advocate 
 tlir sending out of young unniarrie<l ladies to Central 
 Africa, except to well-estaltlished stations, tlaur posi- 
 tion being so misunderstood by the natives. Tn<lia and 
 China offer ready spheres for lady missionaries, married 
 or otherwise, Avhere the women already' civilized can 
 and do appreciate their coming. Mrs. Searle, who has 
 had expei'ience at Benguela, gives it as her opinion 
 that the white women can render most efficient aid in 
 the kitchen, and says: "If a girl can't or won't cook, 
 she won't do for Africa, however good a linguist or 
 theologian she may .be." In no case have we seen 
 native women as house-servants in Central African 
 missionary homes; not even where these have been 
 established twelve or fourteen years. The work of the 
 culinary department is deputed to boys, as no native 
 woman will submit to a domestic training. They con- 
 sider th(Mns(dves wronged and robbed of their rights as 
 women if taken from field work. 
 
 The digestion is so often disordered, the system weak- 
 ened, and the appetite rendered uncertain by fever, 
 that we might almost say the life — certainly the health 
 and consequent usefulness — of the missionary di'i)ends 
 in a great measure on the quality and prei)aration of 
 his meals; and surely this is a department that can 
 most properly be superintended by the missionary's 
 wife. Then, it may be asked, Is th'^re not a wide field 
 of usefulness open to single ladies as trained nui'ses ? 
 To this we would J'eply that many trained nurses go 
 out, to find that all the ideas they had formed on the 
 
t'JUl 
 
 iry's 
 
 tii'ld 
 
 •S(>S ? 
 
 s p) 
 
 1 the 
 
 
 < 
 < 
 
 
Hlta 
 
 .TRAINED NURSES. 
 
 95 
 
 subject of nursing were based on the supposition that 
 the home-life of tlie native African bore some resem- 
 ))Iance to that of tlie poorer chisses at home. They 
 soon discover, however, tiuit the domestic arrange- 
 ments of the native hut offer no facilities for the 
 services of a trained nurse. Thus years spent in a 
 hospital, mechanically obeying and carrying out the 
 doctor's directions concerning the patients, is so much 
 time wasted when Central Africa is to be the goal for 
 futiu'e service; for, although skill in dressing, bandag- 
 ing, etc., is acquired, a far more effectual preparation 
 for usefulness would l)e obtained by attending for a few 
 months the out-patient consulting-room of a city physi- 
 cian. There, practical, if elementary, information would 
 be gained on the diagnosis of ordinary diseas(;s an<l 
 their treatment, so as to intelligently apply the simi)le 
 remedies the medicine-chest contains to the reli«'f of 
 suffering natives, who, as a rule, either come or are 
 carried to the mission station. Xor would this simple 
 course be beyond the reach of the missionaiy's fiance. 
 Opportunities for dressing a wound or putting a few 
 stitches in a cut will occur, such as may be better done 
 by the deft and gentle fingers of a woman ; but is there 
 anything in such emergencies that the missionary's 
 wife, if she be worthy of the name, would not be able 
 to meet? 
 
 By 11 A.M. we arriv(vl at Okambokoakwengi. A 
 number of headmen fi'om the ombala came around 
 our camp, but squatted at some distance; evidently a 
 reconnoitering party, and, as I afterward learned, sent 
 by the king to see if T looked dangerous, before lui 
 should venture on a visit. Their report must have 
 
i 
 
 96 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 l! H 
 
 11: .1 
 
 ''I . I 
 
 fc ^i 
 
 been favorable, for in the afternoon Cipi himself put 
 ill an appearance, his face and body streaked all over 
 with the fetich white clay, as a protection against the 
 evil spells he feared might possess him in our camp. 
 My pombieros could not coax him to come nearer than 
 twenty yards of where I was seated ; and having occa- 
 sion to rise from my chair, he jumped up, dropped his 
 blanket, and would have escaped, but that the crowd 
 around him was too dense. He kept looking about in 
 the most uneasy aMd suspicious manner, as if dreading 
 some impending danger. Meanwhile, his spokesman 
 was reciting an address, at the close of wiiicli a fine 
 goat and a basket of meal were produced for my ac- 
 ceptance. Sanambello replied for me, saying that I 
 was pleased with the gift and would visit the chief in 
 the evening at his village. At this Cipi joined his 
 l>('(»ple ill a great hand-clapping, with shouts of " ew^i, 
 ewa" ("yes, yes"); and forthwith about a hundred 
 and fifty of his soldiers executed a war-dance for my 
 special benefit, and before we parted Cipi and I were 
 the best of friends. 
 
 We are now in the Ganguella country, and have 
 been ever since crossing the Kukema. Here we have 
 an entirely new language and different class of natives, 
 far finer specimens of humanity than the Biheans, so 
 far as physique is concerned; particularly the men, 
 wiio are, as a rule, fine stalwart fellows, and in point 
 of physiognomy would compare favorably with the 
 negroes of either the United States or the West Indies. 
 As they are too independent a people to engage as 
 carriers, and seldom cross the Kukema on the west or 
 the Kwaiiza on the east, their supply of cloth is very, 
 
 if 
 
GAhlGUELUANS. 
 
 i>7 
 
 very scanty, their clothing being confined to a bit of 
 leopard or antelope skin. J^\'W amulets, anklets, or 
 other adornments are worn, but their heads display the 
 [trevailing fashion; and there the skill of the native 
 tonsorial artist is exhibited. 
 
 So intricate and fanciful are some of the pattiM'us 
 that they must be seen to really understand what they 
 are like. In some cases the decorations are all on one 
 side of the head, where the hair is allowed to grow long 
 for the barber's manipulations ; the other side is sl\aved. 
 Others have the hair cut off Ijoth sides of the head, 
 leaving a ridge of long hair on the top, running from 
 the forehead to the nape of the neck, the effect pro- 
 duced suggesting a fireman's helmet. But there are 
 dudes who spend an hour or two every day in the 
 hands of the hairdresser, and affect something more 
 ela])orate still: he may have isolated tufts of long hair, 
 like the headgear of the clown in a pantomime; but 
 the nuiin part of the scalp is shorn close, and then 
 with a sharp knife geometrical figures, squares, cres- 
 ^^ cents, and diamonds are scraped out, like the plan of 
 a flower-garden. The head-arrangements of the women 
 are not a whit behind the men in grotesqueness of style 
 or design; but they spend less time over it, one great 
 dressing sufficing for months, and even years: plaits 
 with three or four white or red beads strung on the 
 end of each ; I'olls, horns, screws large and small, ac- 
 cording to taste, with cowry shells woven in, as fancy 
 may suggest. For example, see the woman sitting in 
 the center of the "Group of Ganguellians " (from a 
 snap shot a1^ my tentdoor). 
 
 The Ganguellians seem to have less faith in charms 
 
 •'V 
 
 rr 
 
 -r^ 
 
I i 
 
 I 
 
 ii ; 
 
 1 i 
 
 ys 
 
 REALITY yERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 than the natives farther west, for I have noticed very- 
 few of them worn, as is customary among- the Um- 
 bundu. Ahnost every one of my carriers and head- 
 men have their favorite charm susi)ended by i\ strinj^ 
 aromid th<' neck or waist, in tlie form of snn(b-y l>its 
 of wood, i»oints of horns, shells, or an assortment of 
 such knick-knacks as have passed throuj^ii the hands 
 of the fetich-doctor, with i\\vi assurance that they will 
 ward off every ill that might otherwise befall them. 
 Others pin their faith to a collection of rubbish tied 
 up in a dirty little bag. All come under th(? name of 
 "Ombanda" — patent medi(?ine, a panacea for every ill; 
 so that in this respect they quite equal som<' of their 
 more <'ivilized, though little less gullible, wliiti^ l)rethren. 
 
 S!mand)ello carries an eland horn filled with a vari- 
 ety of trash, each article sui)posed to have its own spe- 
 cial virtue. Tliis he carefully sticks in tlui ground near 
 his hut on reaching camp; and it is not remov<Ml, nor 
 is any one allowel to touch it, until the flag moves on 
 again. Only on such a journey as this with the Bihean 
 can one fully know how almost their every action is 
 governed by their belief in Kundundu. When twitted 
 about it they only laugh and say, "Ah no, we don't 
 expe<»t you to believe in this; it is something beyond 
 the intellect of a white man." 
 
 Another march of thirteen miles brought us to the 
 Kwanza River. Nothing remarkable by the way; in 
 fact, so far as each day's journey is concerned, it is 
 only the monotonous tramp, tramp, over a rolling 
 country, with an occasional lift in the tipoia when 
 tired or feverish, and when there are men to spare. 
 Now an open plain ; then a small forest ; anon a riv- 
 
IRON-SMELTING. 
 
 99 
 
 ticod voi'v 
 : tlio Uiu- 
 Euid lioad- 
 Y fi striiio- 
 mdiy hits 
 I'tnu'iit of 
 tlu' liaiids 
 tlicy will 
 'all thorn, 
 bish tiod 
 
 ' lUllJK' of 
 
 in-('iy ill ; 
 ' of their 
 brothi'cii. 
 li a vari- 
 
 >W11 SJ)0- * 
 
 iiid iioar 
 v«'d, nor 
 loves ou 
 
 Biheaii 
 otiou is 
 
 twitted 
 don't 
 
 Joyond 
 
 to the 
 ■ay; in 
 1, it is 
 roll in"- 
 
 whoii 
 
 spare. 
 
 a riv- 
 
 ulet; rarely a river; no plants or trees that by their 
 appearance would suggest our being in the tropics ; no 
 fruit of any kind except a nauseous sort of wild berry. 
 Near the villages snudl plots of corn and nuuiioc are 
 cultivated; but the soil in (Janguelhi, between the Ku- 
 kenia and Kwanza, is by a long way the richest soil 
 we have come across. AVith proper attention good 
 crops of cereals and vegetables as yet unknown to 
 the natives could be raised. 
 
 This district is noted for the excelh'nce of its iron. 
 During the cold<>st months of the year the miners and 
 blacksmiths turn out and camp near the pits, working 
 night and day until they have manufactured a sui)ply 
 of hoes, spear and ari'ow heads, axes, hatchets, knives, 
 snuft"-spoons, etc., suflficiiMit to meet the demand. I 
 examined several holes from which ore had l)e<>n dug. 
 TlKsy were about ten feet in diameter and eight feet 
 deep. Close by were the small sheds, with l»rok«'n clay 
 furiuices and crucibles scattered around among the coke 
 and slag, where the ore had been smelted au<l the metal 
 transformed into implements of labor or weapons of 
 war. The bellows or blast employed is a simple con- 
 trivance, but it serves the purjiose. Those 1 have seen 
 consist of two hollowed-out disks of wood, ten inches 
 in diameter, resemljling a large wooden ladle, with a 
 tubular cylindrical handle a foot long ; round the edge 
 of the disks goatskins are bound with rawhide, forming 
 a sack about fifteen inches long; this is gathered at 
 the top and tied tightly round sticks, that serve as 
 handles. The two wooden tubes are made to converge 
 into a clay muzzle, wduch is connected with the fire; 
 and by the alternate and rapid movement of the sticks 
 
100 
 
 fe ii 
 
 !.; 
 
 Rl:^LrrY yHfisUS ROMANCE. 
 
 % II, 
 
 "'" "«'o.u.no,latio>, „f ,„ ' '? '""'^ '•"'/""••■'I for 
 
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 101 
 
 and awny IIh'V went. Wlhii tlic nM|iicst of the cliicr was 
 rxidaiiifd to iiif I wislifd it would i-aiii so llial Liwika 
 hiiuht l<'ai'ii tliJit it was not in tlir power of <'V»'ii white 
 men t(» eontri.l the elements; hut the storm whieli 
 threatened Jill ihiy <iid not hreak until at't<'rtheo\ was 
 hronj^Hit hoin<' ;in<l the chief safely lH»iised in the oin- 
 Italii ; s(» I suj.pose he felt himself under extra o1>li;4'a- 
 tion to me tor li;ivin;< kept (.(V the rain, as, in addition 
 to the o\. he sent a ljn'jj:e i^oat, 
 
 OeloI.er 7th. liiwikiiV kindness Inis unfortunately 
 
 I n the niejins of deliiyinu' us three whole d.-iys, for 
 
 wliat with libations of l.eer and aliun<lanee of niejit foi' 
 my men, threats and eonxinji: were alike nnaviiilinj;: in 
 getting' them to move; hut by six o'clock this morn- 
 in.u" we wer(! all at the river-sid*' ready to be fei'ried 
 across, The Kwanza is about ninety ynrds wide here, 
 and fourteen feet dcej) in the centei-. It (lows at th<' 
 rate of tlii-ee miles an liour in a northwest dii'eetioii 
 towiU'fl its destination, iiejii' Tioanda, There wei-e five 
 du;^-out canoes place(l at oui' sei-vicc by tile chief, and 
 imniiied by his own iihmi. They seem to have no i<lea 
 of a paddle with a broa<l end, but laboi'iously propel 
 thoir craft with a lon<!; round pole, usiiie- eudi rnd alter- 
 nately to the ri<jjlit and left. I went ov<'r first, and was 
 amused wateliinj;' the carriers with their loads })ein<jj 
 })roui;ht across, ]\rany of them vcnturinj^' on a bi<i; river 
 for tlio first tinio, they did not daro to look up, but lay 
 down flat in the bottom of tho canoe, hi<iin<i: thoir fa('(>s 
 in thoir liands. Tho oldor men sat up and gravely 
 look<'d around, for thoy knew a trick which was a cer- 
 tain preventive, in their opinion, against any calamity 
 
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 le^my rcRsus romance. 
 
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 tilt' accoimiKxlutioii of his lmr»«in, Ww occupants of 
 Nvhicli an; coiispinums hy tlit-ir al»scn<'c, having' ouo 
 au<l all «'Hcai»c<l with thch' lord. A ;;rcat deal of tiiiio 
 ami lal)t>r has hccii spent in cuttin;i; and carvini; in a 
 viiricty of dcsi^nis each scpai'atc pole eoniposinu' the 
 lii;;h stockade, luitil they look like three hundred yjii'ds 
 of old-l'iishioned tiu'nefl hcdposts. liut a t'ofiner chief, 
 I understand, must <;et the credit of these pleasinj; feat 
 ures of the onilialii, as this man is a fet'lilc-minded, 
 cowardly, and superstitious fellow, who never misses 
 an opi»ortunity of cni-ichiiii;' himself l>y plundering 
 those who ju'c too weid< to resist him. 
 
 In ahout iin hour Likalula's men pi'oduced him, lit- 
 erally e(»vered from he.-id to foot with white clay. Our 
 interview was short, as he was ti-end)lin«; with fear. \ 
 madii him a |>reseiit of eloth and invited him to visit 
 tlio camp. We must remain in this district f(»r two or 
 three days to i»ound corn, as for the next eijrht oi' ten 
 nuu'<'hes there will Ite no meal to he had. Next day 
 the chief came to us with a ^I'cat deal of pomp, l»ut we 
 did not take to him, nor did his people seem to show 
 him the usual respect. A vest-pocket would hold all 
 the hahilimeiits he wore. With an air of «;'enerosity he 
 told nie that for one of my repeating;' rifles he would 
 ^ive a hiji,' ^'oat. Little did he know that not for lifty 
 of his Itii;- "•'oats would we have parted with a rifle in 
 the vicinity of such men as Likalula ; at the more 
 su.uxesticm we laughed so heartily that he ({uitte(l our 
 coinpany. 
 
 A])out noon a strange plienomonon appeare(l. The 
 mercury stood at 100° Y. in the shade, a strong wind 
 ju'ose, and darkness came on as Trom an eclipse of tlio 
 
104 
 
 RHAUTY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 I M 
 
 sun ; when siiddoiily a shower of Imil-stoncs, each as 
 hii'ge as a marble, began to fall, and continued for fif- 
 teen minutes, until the ground was w<.'ll oovered. 
 Home of the <'arri<M's happened to be returning froni 
 the vilhiges, and fairly yelled as the hail i)eppered their 
 naked Ixxlies; but they did not seem much surprised, 
 so 1 eonelude<I that it was no rare oeeurrence here. 
 
 The road before us must be a very hungry one, 
 judging from the (juantity of meal and small dried fish 
 being tied ui>. By the ev«'ning of the 18th the men 
 had finislied their i)reparations, and seemed so satisfied 
 with thcMnselvi'S that speech-making, song-singing (if 
 tlie dreadful braying and unmelodious recitations could 
 be called such), and general hilarity continued round 
 the camp-fire far into the night. 
 
 (Jctol)er 11th. We got a good start this morning by 
 daybreak. Our path lay mostly through forest. AVi^ 
 ci-ossed on an improvised l)ridge the river Varia, about 
 foi'ty feet wide, flowing to the northwest to join the 
 Kwanza; and twenty-three hours later another stream, 
 the Hondo, not quite so large, but flowing in the same 
 direction. We passed only one village on the way — a 
 distance of fifteen miles. My heels are badly blistered ; 
 this is unfortunate, as there will be no more delays 
 probably for a week or two, so that they will have no 
 rest, and several of the carriers having fever, there are 
 none to spare for the tipoia. I must make the l)est of 
 it by banchiging, and cutting out pieces of my shoes, 
 b«'ing only too glad to be going forward. We halted 
 for the night at Kawangu. At present there is no chief, 
 the last having died about a month ago. We saw his 
 hat, calabashes, and pots piled on the grave, with all 
 
IN THE H^ILDERNESS. 
 
 105 
 
 4 
 
 5r 
 
 the ronuiins of his hut foiraiiig: a heap near by, every 
 earo beiiij^; taken to see that none of his belongini-s 
 -were left inside the onil)aUi, thns removing, as far as 
 l)ossiljle, the necessity for noeturnal visits of his spirit 
 to cUiim them. 
 
 October IGth. For the last five days we have not 
 seen a single village ov native lint, every (hiy toiling 
 throngh deej) white sand, across plains with scarcely 
 a weed, far less grass, to sJiade the fiery path, the hot 
 sand blistering our fee<" until we could scarcely limp 
 into cam}). For two days we had the Hondo in sii^ht 
 on our right. Traveling cast-southeast, wc crossed a 
 small stream called the Quitu on the ll-tli. We have 
 seen none of the large ant-hills since crossing the 
 Kwanza. 
 
 \Ve got on the path to-day by (> a,:m. The morning- 
 was cloudy and cool; but oh, the sand! It seems to 
 get deeper and stiffer every day. Not a sign of life; 
 the country through which we are passing is the nu>st 
 desert-like we have seen vet, and that means desola- 
 lion indeed. Sand, sand, sand everywhere, with a few 
 patches of shrul)S here and there, l>ut rarely a I'oot of 
 grass. AVe crossed a small l)rook, the Mongovie, which 
 flows south to join the (^uitu, and camped at Kam- 
 biml»ia. We were sui'prised in the evening l>y the ap- 
 pearance in camp of Ji man accompanied by two boys 
 bringing l»askets of a manioc meal, which is the only 
 product of the soil in t'>ese parts, and a large gourd of 
 beer or mead made from wild honey. He turned out 
 to be the chief of this wilderness, and his is the oidy 
 village for many miles aroun<l. He was nnide happy 
 with four yards of calico. 
 
lOG 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 ■A -I 
 
 October 17tli. Rain detained us in camp until 7 a.m. 
 Soon after starting we entered a forest, and began the 
 assent of a hill called the Coia. At the summit the 
 Itoiling-point thermometer and aneroid registered an 
 altitude of five thousand feet, or about eight hundred 
 feet above the surrounding country. For about ten 
 irules we followed the ridge of the hill, which stretches 
 northward in a great plateau, and southward sloping 
 abruptly down to an immense and densely wooded 
 valley, forming an unln'oken expanse of foliage as far as 
 the eye can reach. Tlie trees are tall, but few of t!iem 
 exceed eighteen inches in diameter. Rubber and wild 
 honey are found plentifully all through this disti-i<'t, 
 
 The gathering of honey is not the work of l)ees ouly, 
 as every camp is infested with a small fly, al)out half 
 the size of the ordinary house-fly ; these are most as- 
 siduous in collecting and storing a honey Avhiter and 
 sweeter than that of the bee. Thev find their vrav into 
 the lioUow trunks of timber where bees cannot enter, 
 having access through holes made by the boring-woi'in. 
 Our daily meeting with the honev-bird served to remove 
 any skepticism I may have ha<l in reference to this cun- 
 ning little creature. It is not much larger than a ca- 
 nary, and as soon as man makes his appearance hops 
 from branch to branch, making repeated fliglits toward 
 the traveler, and then flying off in the direction in Avliich 
 it ii[)pears to wish attention attracted, with a sustained 
 chic-en, <*hic-en, chic-churr, churr, returning again and 
 again, until its importunity is rewarded by some one 
 accepting its invitation to follow lo the spot, where is 
 stored the — to it — inaccessible treasure. It makes a 
 great fuss, flying round and round, leaving :io doubt 
 
 y 
 
 11 p:-._ 
 
PICTURESQUE HUTS. 
 
 107 
 
 "til 7 A.M. 
 ^J^'^ciu the 
 limit the 
 'tered au 
 huiKh'cd 
 Ijout ten 
 ^trotelies 
 sloping 
 
 wooded 
 IS far as 
 of them 
 lid wild 
 rict,, 
 
 'S ()I.]Jy, ' 
 
 ut half 
 ost as- 
 1 1- and 
 i.v into 
 enter, 
 worm. 
 ?move 
 5 cnn- 
 ii ca- 
 hops 
 ward 
 'hich 
 lined 
 and 
 one 
 •e is 
 ?s a 
 'ubt 
 
 as to the whereabouts of its find. Sometimes there is 
 no opening to be seen, when the native proceeds to tap 
 upon the, trunk with the head of his hareliet, until he 
 locates the hive. He then obtains the honey by mak- 
 ing a fire at tlie root of tlie tree (in the case of fiy- 
 honcy tliis is, of course, unnecessary), and under cover 
 of the smoke with his hatchet secures the prize. Then 
 is revealed the reason for the excitement of our tiny 
 guide, wlio now comes in for its share of the pickings. 
 To the taste, bee honey is harsh in fias-or, and looks 
 like molasses. 
 
 Rubber has to be dug for with hoes, only a small 
 plant showing above ground, the roots, from which 
 alone it is obtained, running along for many yards, 
 about six inches below the surface, varying in size 
 from a (puirtei'-inch to an inch and a half. These 
 roots are l>eaten with wooden mallets and boiled in 
 water; when the rubber dissolves out it is collected 
 jukI formed into balls, mixed a good deal with the 
 woody f51)er. 
 
 We were happy in fin<ling a suitable camping-ground 
 (the small village of Vowelutwi-Onjamba) and a stream 
 of Avater just as we emerged from the forest ; and we 
 were down to the level of this morning'!; camp, forty- 
 two hundred feet. The sand is so loose and deep, and 
 the plain, stretching eastward, so void of vegetation, 
 that I am continually imagining myself by bonie sea- 
 beach. Tlie huts of the village near by are built in an 
 entirely different style to a£\y we have seen in other 
 parts of Ganguella. They cannot, of course, use mud, 
 for there is none to be had, and stone is out of the 
 question — we have not seen a pebble since leaving 
 
108 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 ■ f*i^ 
 
 i I 
 
 I i 
 
 h 
 
 n 
 
 Biho; l)nt they tie up small Ijundles of grass tightly, 
 and "weav^e them together in a perpendicular iiosition, 
 like a basket, to form the walls. The roofs are also of 
 grass, resembling in outline the shape of a Chinaman's 
 hat, the eaves coming down to within four feet of the 
 giound. Tlu? mode of carrying loads, too, is not seen 
 among the tribes west. Take water, for example : in- 
 stead of the gourd being poised on the head, it is placed 
 in a large Ijasket or net slung on the l»ack, and the 
 weight borne by a band of plaited }>ark-cloth across 
 the forehead, in the same way as New Haven fishwives 
 carry their creels. The practice of filing the teeth to 
 a sharp point prevails here, as all through Ganguella. 
 
 We purpose resting to-morrow, to give the lads of 
 the caravan a chance to jjick up a bit, the feet of a 
 good many being played out from the burning sand. 
 Several of them are very young, and are the slaves of 
 the men whose meal they carry. 
 
 October 18th, Sunday. In camp all day ; l)ut it is a 
 question with me whether the day is not better spent 
 on the road than in camp. From daylight to dark 
 there has been nothing but noise and carousal, drink- 
 ing fermented honey beer to excess. When we tra\'el 
 on Sunday one's mind has at least the rest and quiet 
 of the path, and at the end of the march the men are 
 too tired for revelrj'. 
 
 h 
 
 14 1 
 
I ! 
 
 v 1 1 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FROM VOWELUTWI-ONJAMBA TO THE HUNTER'S PARADISE. 
 
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 Five liuiulred natives in our cam]). — Daily iihmiu. — Scarcity of food. — Herds 
 of butTalo. — The ombanda-liorii. — Soldier nuts. — Hostile natives. — Peace 
 by strataf:;eiM. — A niat;nanimous i)roniise. — /;/ piois uaturuUlms. — Cater- 
 pillar stew. — Makiiifi an inii)ression. — A wliolesoine awe. — I)owii with 
 fever. — Extemporized mortars. — A dark outlook. — Carriers on strike. — 
 A complimentary dance. — Roffues all of them. — Nurse anil cook Ity turns. 
 — Swamj) villa}j;es. — Fail to control the elements. — Exorcisinj; the spirits. 
 — Struj^j^les in the marshes. — Sparsity of villa>;es. — (iame in abi'iduuce. 
 — Charf^e(l V)y a butTalo. — Has the liiiieau a K"d :' — Our rain-maker. — 
 Diviners.— Medicine-men. — Meat and to spare. — A hunter's parailise. 
 
 OCTOBER loth. Wo luid started ahout lialf an 
 hour, whon we (uuiio upon tlirt^o nativ*^ caravans, 
 bound inland for rubber. The lieachnen stated that 
 tliey had been Avaiting* our arrivjd for two (hiys, and 
 wished to travel with us, as there were more rumors of 
 war three days ahead; an<l they thought it woidd be 
 discreet to follow in the white man's train, which now, 
 including thest; natives, numbers five hundred persons. 
 The route is very hilly; so many stc^ep ascents to climb 
 compelled us to make the march short. The only vil- 
 lage we have seen to-day is a small one opposite the 
 camp, Kambata. The chief, with a dozen of his men, 
 gave us a call in the evening, bringing the usual gourd 
 of beer, and a goat ; the latter very acceptable, as it is 
 now over a week since wq have tasted meat. Meal 
 
 109 
 
 1 
 
110 
 
 Rli/tUlY yHRSUS KOMANCli. 
 
 t I 
 
 f ' 
 
 uikI tea uloiio, (lay aftor day, witli liard man-lios, was 
 iM'^'iiiniii,!;: to tell upon i»io. My «li<'t tlu'so days is, as 
 a rule, cxcoodiii^iy simpl*'. On ^ettiii^ into cainp at, 
 iioou I have soino vvater hoilod and [)OUi'«'d ()v<'r ii tcii- 
 spoont'ul of cocoa, wliicli, with a couph' of crack^'i's, 
 ('oiistitutcs iiiy lunc.li. At sundown or dinncr-tinic a 
 dish of pon'idK<^ if^ inad«i, part of wliich I oat with somk^ 
 wild honey, folIow<!d by a i'\\\) of t(,'a; ai.id tlic halancc, 
 Avith a cup of cottVc, servos for breakfast n<'xt nioiMiin^', 
 before ;i:ettin^ on the track. Seai'city of men com- 
 pelled nio to leave* a ^ood deal of my ]>rovisions behind, 
 and we )uiss many thinj^s, such as condensed milk, and 
 floui" for ])read. 
 
 This is still the Gan<?uella country, but T notice 
 somelhinn- [x'culiar to-<lay in tlui appearance of Ihe 
 natives. They dift'or from any wo have seen iiitherto. 
 The lan^uajjjo is t\w same, with its oft-repeat(!d Z] but 
 the m< n are STnaller, and most of them have boards 
 tlircj! to six inches loujj^, hi^h foreheads, thin lips, and 
 wear the hair lon^' all round tho head in fine plaits, 
 profusely ji^r<'ased, but not cut or carved, as is the ^en- 
 oral custom anionjij tho (bui^uellians. Tu fact, they 
 resendilo very (closely some; types of Hindoos. I was 
 sorry they camci whcm th<^ lij^ht was gone, so that I 
 could not get a photograph of them. 
 
 Another stiff march of six hours brought us to the 
 Kwandu district, wiuiro thoro is a small town. Food is 
 getting very scarce; tho cari'iers could g(^t very little 
 meal where wo stopped two days ago. These long 
 marches don't j)ay, as wo have to rest a day, S(ivoral of 
 the men })eing sick juid footsore. 
 
 In tho forenoon we crossed a stream called the 
 
HHRDS or BUFFALO. 
 
 Ill 
 
 f 
 
 Kwiiiigu, flowing swiftly to the Houtii, only four ynnls 
 wide but nearly nin«^ foct deep. At the foot of W\\\ hill 
 wlicvc wo aro camped to-night flows the Kwandu, liav- 
 jim' its rise' in a swani}) about a niilc to the west of us, 
 ;iimI deriving its name from tlu* <list)'icl. It trjivrls 
 ,.,ist-southeast to join tlw* Chohc. In the cvciiiu;;' 1 
 unit flown to th<5 nuu'sli and .shot a hrafc of liMr fat 
 .links — a great treat. l'rol)ably we iirr getting nciir 
 till' gMiHc country. Although there are oidy three or 
 I'diir villiiges in the whole district, it boasts of two 
 cliicl's, both of whom came to visit us, and ejieli brought 
 ;i i^oat and "ovasangu" (canary see-d) meal, the only 
 v|Mries of grain the soil will produce. It is of a dark 
 coloi', and tastes a little lik»^ ry«!. One chief was the 
 hap|ty {)ossessoi" of four coats, presents from passin;^ 
 traders; and h<! <'vi<lently thought it the pi'oper thing 
 1(. don them all on this s])ecial occasion, while six of 
 his men w<m'(* I'igged out with one coat among the lot, 
 two of them consicb'ring one sl(>evo each, if properly 
 adjusted, (piite sufficient. 
 
 October 24th. For two days we have followed the 
 irortli bank of th(* Kwandu. We sighted sev(;ral herds 
 of buffalo, high, shaggy-maned In-utes; lait as they 
 also sighte<l us, it was easy for th(!m to k(M']) at a safe 
 distance, foi- there was not a single shrub to hide us. 
 They scampered away, stopping now and again to have 
 a look at us, the bull always keeping a bit in the rear, 
 between th(^ cows and danger. Yesterday the mercury 
 reached 10")° F. at 1 p.m. in my tent; ])ut to-day we 
 have been chiefly in forest, which, though hilly, has 
 afforded us a welcome shade. About 8 a.m. the Kwandu 
 took a turn to the south-southeast, while we kei)t on 
 
i' 
 
 I ,i; 
 
 IIJ 
 
 RE/iUTY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 enst-soutlioast uiid canio upon tlio spongjo where the 
 K wmidu River has its rise. We had a touj?h struji:^le 
 j^ettiii^ t4ir()iij^h. Some of the men, l)eiiig heavily 
 laden, sank into the bhick, t'oul-smelHnj;: mud \\\\ to the 
 waist. One of the carriers knoeke<l oft" a toe-nail, and 
 came for some medicine to dress it. I gave him a 
 bandage with some carltolic ointment, directing him 
 how to apply it; but l)efor(^ ho proce(»ded to follow my 
 insti'U<'tions, ho produced his om])anda-horn, stuck the 
 small ('n<l in tho ground near him, put a live coal in- 
 side, which from some stuff the horn contained sent up 
 a dense smoke, and while) it was ascending he made 
 haste to fix up tho injured too. When it gets well my 
 treatment will come in for a very small share of tho 
 credit, but faith in his feticli-horn will bo confirmed. 
 
 Octolter 2Gth. We wore unceremoniously driven out 
 of camp this morning, long before daybreak, by an 
 army of soldier or driver ants. They swarmed into 
 every hut in millions — no mean foe to the naked car- 
 riers, and from which there is no escape but in flight. 
 The enormous mandibles of these ferocious Avarriors 
 are v(M'y strong, and shaped like reaping-hooks ; when 
 once they get a hold tlierc^ is no let go, but, doubling 
 tluMr bodies under them so as to o])tain a purchase, 
 they pull with all their might, and unless killed fetch 
 tli(^ bit of flesh every time. We see them frequently 
 in the path hurrying along in close phalanx, flanked 
 by their generals and officers on either side, attacking 
 viciously everything animate or inanimate that comes 
 in their way. They are dretided and given a wide 
 berth by both man and beast. 
 
 Monsieur C'oillard, who has had special facilities for 
 
 1^ i^ 
 
 1^ ! 
 
SOLDIER ANTS. 
 
 llii 
 
 wJiere tho 
 
 g Jicavily 
 
 "1' to (lio 
 
 'i^«il, and 
 
 N Jiiui a 
 
 ^'»«' Ifim 
 
 i>llo\v my 
 
 tiK'k tlio 
 
 <'onl in- 
 
 sent 11]) 
 
 '<^ ni.'ulo 
 ^v<'II jny 
 ' or the 
 nicd. 
 v<Mi out 
 
 ^>y an 
 '«! into 
 ed ear- 
 
 rti^lit. 
 ^ii'n'ors 
 
 wlieii 
 iblin 
 i^'liasG, 
 
 foteli 
 ently 
 nked 
 'king" 
 
 W'ide 
 
 i for 
 
 S 
 
 stud villi? their Imbits in the Barotso Valley, writes: 
 "Olio sees them busy in innumerable battalions, ranked 
 jiiid disciplined, windiiij? along like a broad black rib- 
 li,,ii of watered silk. Whence come they ? Where are 
 (licv going? Nothing can stop them, nor can any ob- 
 •rct cluingo their route. If it is inanimate, they turn 
 it aside and pass on; if it is living, they assail it ven- 
 omously, crowding one on cop of the otlier to the at- 
 tack while the main army passes on, business-like and 
 sih'iit. Is the obstacle a trench or a stream of water? 
 Tlit'ii they form themselves at its edge into a compact 
 mass. Is this a deliberating assembly? Probably, for 
 soon tlit^ mass stirs and moves on, crosses tho trench 
 ,,!• strciUM, and continues in its incessant and myste- 
 rious march. A multitude of these sohliers are sacri- 
 ti.M'd for the common good, and these legions, which 
 know not what it is to be beaten, pass over the corpses 
 ot' these, victims to their determination. Woe to him 
 who i)uts his foot on that black ribbon! Ho has not 
 yet seen what he has done, when thousands of tlu^so 
 choleric fighters cover him from head to foot and force 
 the'ir knaiUes into the flesh. It is enough to drive one 
 mad. 
 
 "The most redoubtable carnivora can do nothing 
 against these tiny enemies. They bellow, low, and 
 roar when attacked by them, and then run away. Even 
 the 'lord of creati ai,' who destroys and annihilates on 
 sea and land the most savage cetaceans and mammi- 
 fers, is quite powerless before this insect. So much the 
 worse for his dignity ; he has to take off in the field all 
 his clothes, and rub himself down as well as he can. 
 But at night the martyrdom is complete. I do not like 
 
114 
 
 l<i:.ll.ilY I'liKSiS ROMANUi. 
 
 -I 
 
 \{ \ 
 
 to think of )i pci'soii down with t'rvcr in ji room tliat 
 these nnts hjive iiivjidcil. To coiit II )M!in with jurcnsc, 
 tit- him hand and foot, and thi'ow him as a i>i'ry to 
 these implaeahhM'arnivora, is a favorite form of exem- 
 tion n'sorted to hv the; Marotsi when thev desire to 
 siu'cially tortiii'e their victim." 
 
 W'e are now ti'uvehnjA'sontheast l>y sonth, the Kwanun 
 on our left, with ils marsliy Lanks stretehinu' out on 
 
 either si»hf for over u huiKh'ed yards, hani fell heavily 
 yesterdny, making' the roud ii little eooler and the sand 
 fii-nier; and a small leafy hush eoverini;' the <;round 
 j^ives the face of tin* country a sli«;htly improved ajt- 
 pearance. AVe met a jmrty of natives, several of whom 
 had received spear an<l ai'i'ow wounds while defendin<;' 
 their ivory from an attack made ]»y the ti-il»e amonu' 
 whom we intend to camp to-niu'ht, at Cinjinji. They 
 waniecl us to ,<j:o no farther, as the sava«;"<'s wei'c jiath- 
 ered in ^'reat force and w«'i'e ^•ettinn' ready for us; that 
 our little band would only he a mouthful for them ; and 
 so on. Tho Biheans were tei'i'ihly scare(l, hut avo pressed 
 on, and by noon got into the dreade(l camp, so lately 
 vacated by tho unfortunate native traders. 
 
 We had just got the loads stacked when a crowd of 
 men oame along to look at us. Tlioy are the first we 
 have seen in five days. The villages are not in sight, 
 but cannot be a great way oft". These men are of the 
 regular (hinguellian type, but evi<lently in a very ba<l 
 humor, and, being elated l)y success in tlieir last fight, 
 seem eager for another. Taking pi'ecaution to repair 
 the temporary stockade around the camp, I sei'ved out 
 cartridges, gunpowder, and lead, and ordered every man 
 who earried a gun to have it by him in case of an attack. 
 

 
 7. 
 
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PEACE BY STRATAGEM. 
 
 115 
 
 Meantime, the natives were disappearing in twos and 
 threes until we were alone. Now wo feared the worst. 
 " They have gone for their weapons," said Sananibello. 
 His surmise was correct, for in less than an hour over 
 two hundred men, armed with hows and arrows, spciirs 
 and hatchets, came dancing inside the stockade and 
 halted at my tent dooi-, where I was sitting mending 
 my shoes. Their gesticulations and bauHiig beggar 
 description; but I went on Avitli my work, until sev- 
 eral spears came so uneomfortably near my face tliat I 
 jumped up, drew my revolver (a regulation 450), while 
 Sanambello remarked, " Now see how the white man's 
 guns shoot ! " I fired several shots at a tree a few 
 yards off, and as the bulU^s made; the bark fly they 
 were silent and drew back a little. Then, taking a 
 AVinchester, I fired half a dozen rounds as quickly as I 
 could over their heads, and paused, telling Sanambello 
 to let them know that I was not half through yet, and 
 that they should have the remaining shots unless they 
 cleared out of my camp forthwith. The words were 
 scarcely uttered before they made off, tund)ling over 
 one another in their haste to get at a safe distance from 
 such infernal machines. My men fairly yelled and 
 roared with laughter when the bloodless battle was 
 ended and the warriors had fled. 
 
 But we were now in danger of a night attack ; and 
 to try and avert this T gave Sanamlx^llo a handsome 
 piece of figured calico and a jackknife for the chief, 
 with the message that T Avould spare tlunr lives and do 
 them no injury provided they left their weapons behin<l 
 and came in a respectful and proper manner to my 
 camp for palaver. These conditions of peace were 
 
4 
 
 I f I 
 
 IIG 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 aeeepted. Quite a number came back, and with them 
 sovcnil women canying presents of rubber, meal, and 
 fowls from the chief, who thus indicated that he wislied 
 to make peace. I treated them to a lick of coarse salt 
 each, which they seemed greatly to relish. 
 
 We arrived at Kangamba (altitude, 3750 feet), rain 
 fiilliiig heavily as we halted. As it did not begin to 
 fall until we had reached the camping-ground, some of 
 the carriers, as they came in wet, were grumbling be- 
 cause I had kept off the rain until under shelter myself, 
 and allowed it to come while most of the caravan was 
 still on the track. I disput^'d the point with Sanam- 
 bello, but he si'»iply remarked that he had seen me 
 with his owr eyes take out my ombanda (a compass) 
 on the road. This was conclusive, and I had to take 
 the l)lanie. Here, also, we found the natives in a very 
 sulky mood ; but as they had come off second best in 
 their skirmish with the native caravan already referred 
 to, they did not see.m so keen for a fight as the Ciujinjis. 
 We added fresh thorn-bush to the skorni and put sen- 
 tries on for the night to guard against a surprise. 
 
 There seems to be a large population here; crowds 
 have been coming and going all the afternoon. Most 
 of them were all but nude, particularly the women ; an 
 ordinary trade handkerchief would provide all the garb 
 they seem to require for half a dozen. As a rule, both 
 sexes have good figures, and are quite up to the average 
 height, although the lazy life of the ukmi is not condu- 
 cive to muscular development. Thej^ are expert bas- 
 ket-makers, and we saw some really beautiful specimens 
 of this handicraft, perfectly water-tight, the smaller sizes 
 being used as drinking-vessels. The trade or barter 
 
 L 
 
"# 
 
 
 them 
 
 |visl:ed 
 ^e salt 
 
 I I 
 
 CATERPILLAR STEIV. 
 
 117 
 
 goods in demand hero aro iron and copper wire for 
 anklets and armlets, the HjmIjs of some of the Avomen 
 being- loaded with them; red wliite-<'ye beads, gnnpow- 
 <ler, salt, and tol)ae('(), the lattin- being in universal nso 
 as snuff by both men and women, every one wearing 
 round their neck a Ihit ii'on spatula, with whieh they 
 shovel it into their eapaeious nostrils. 
 
 The carriers are sliort of meal again. I cannot un- 
 derstand liow they have stowed away such sackfuls as 
 they wen^ provided with a few days ago. We ninst 
 stop h(>re for two or three days to enal)k> them to relill. 
 For th(^ last ten days the employment of the Ijoys of 
 the caravan on getting into camp lias been to go off 
 into the woods to gather a species of large black-and- 
 yellow-colored hairy caterpillar, generally bringing in a 
 dozen or more l)asketfuls, whicli are stewed in clay pots, 
 a'ld served round to b(> eaten Avith their mush. The 
 insects are about three inches long, and, as m.'iy ))e 
 imagined., make a repulsive-looking dish; but this is 
 the tasty bit of the native rei)ast, and is to them what 
 pate (Ic foic (jraii is to a modern epicure. The carriers 
 at mealtime sit round in groups, their dish in the center 
 heaped with a sodden stiff' paste of scalded meal. Each 
 man helps himself with his fingers, kneads each lump 
 into the form of a cone, and dips it into the savory stew 
 before passing it to his mouth. They seldom have 
 more than on<' meal a day, but I could not venture to 
 stat«' how many pounds of this mush they will ])ut out 
 of sight at tli«'ir evening sitting; after which the fires 
 are stirred, fresh fuel added, pipes and siuiff-boxes are 
 in recpiisition, and they settle doAvn to entertain one 
 another by relating tales of "love and war." 
 
 ■----w"--- 
 
i ^ •<' 
 
 1 t; 
 
 U I 
 
 118 
 
 REALITY yERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 Smoking assumes many forms in Africa. A few 
 carry their own individual pipe, but usually there is 
 hut one among a dozen or more men, each tribe having 
 its own peculiar style of family hookah. Some, like 
 the bushmen, make a new pipe every time they want 
 a smoke, by twisting up a leaf into a cone and till- 
 ing it with crushed tobacco, which they light with a 
 lire coal, and apply the mouth to the small end, passing 
 it to their neighbor after two or three whitfs. Others 
 mix a little earth with saliva and mold it into a bowl, 
 making an opening at one side with a straw; then, v 
 drying it by the tire and passing a long hollow reed 
 through th<,' orifice, they load up and proceed with 
 their inhalations. All the natives I have seen at this 
 operation take the smoke right into their lungs, and 
 seem to enjoy the fit of coughing tliat follows. But 
 the form of pipe in most general use has a receptacle 
 for water, through which the smoke is drawn. An 
 eland or koodoo horn has a hole cut in the side half- 
 way between the base and the point ; into this a reed 
 is inserted, on the end of Avhicli a clay bowl is fixed 
 and filled with tobacco or bang {caintahi.s natira), and 
 occasionally both; "vater is poured in until it rises 
 al)0ve the node, when it is ready for business, placing 
 the mouth over the open base of the horn and inspiring 
 the fumes. 
 
 But the most objectionable form of smoking is that 
 of bang, or dagga. It is more used than tobacco among 
 the Batokas, Mashonas, Inhambanes, and those toward 
 the East Coast and Lake regions. Its intoxicating and 
 injurious (effects compare very closely with the sensa- 
 tions produced by the use of opium. After filling the 
 
 1 \B. 
 
MAKING AN IMPRESSION. 
 
 119 
 
 few 
 'I'e is 
 xm^ 
 like 
 
 iill- 
 \thii 
 
 -HhI 
 
 lunffs, the head i.^ tlirown Ijack, an<l the surplus smoko 
 cmittod iu a <leiise cloud; the mouth is filled with 
 water, aud this squirted right and left witli the fuuies 
 from the luugs. They are now in a hysterical con- 
 dition, .giving themselves up to coughing, laughingf 
 shouting, and incoherent mutterings. Natives ad- 
 dieted to the use of this weed beconu^ in a short time 
 imbecile, emaciated, and helpless. The Portugues*' are 
 so strongly convinced of the evils resulting to the vo- 
 taries of bang that shives discovered indulging in it 
 are pun island as for any other crime. 
 
 On the morning of the lM)tli the chief appeared, gor- 
 geously arrayed in h^opard-skins, with a hn'g<! band of 
 men at his heels armed with assegais. Quickly buck- 
 ling Oil my revoher, I ordered them to quit the camp 
 and leave their Ave;«pons outside if they wished to talk 
 with me. They obeyed, and returned, when I gave the 
 chief a seat, and, my headmen having gathered round, 
 2)roceeded to make myself agreea>»le, taking care to 
 show them my repeaters and Express rifles, drawing 
 special attention to the size of the bullets, and to the 
 fact that souH? of them were explosive. The great 
 man becanu^ veiy civil, and after passing a few com- 
 pliments took his departure, returning, however, in the 
 afternoon with a fat goat, meal, and beer. In return 
 I gave him a blanket and some cloth, which pleased 
 him, and W(^ parttnl friends. 
 
 Our route now lies south-southeast instead of east- 
 southeast (as it has been ever .'^ince crossing the 
 Kwanza), following the Kwangu on its east bank. 
 The surrounding country gradually improves in ap- 
 pearance as we advance, grass being more alnindant, 
 
V20 
 
 RF./iUTY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 I 
 
 although still trudging tliroiigh sand; but tliere seems 
 but little of any other soil on the great central African 
 plateau, (lame is more plentiful, scar<'ely a day pass- 
 ing without our Seeing herds of buffalo and antelope, 
 but always in the open, where the al)sence of cover 
 denias us the opportunity of a shi^t, much as we want 
 meat. 
 
 ^Vrriving at Metua, we have now to build a sk(n'm 
 around each camp, not only as a protection against 
 wild animals, but to break the rush of a charge from 
 hostile tribes. There are two entrances, which are 
 built up at night, and at each, (Uirnig the day, the 
 men stick their fetich-liorns in the path to awe the 
 natives; but an exhibition of the quick-firing rifles 
 has a greater effect upon the Ganguellians than any 
 number of horns, for thus far I liave not seen a tithe 
 of the outward signs of supin'stition witli them that 
 exists among my own men. Tliey have a wholesome 
 dread of the guns, which tliey say go "bam, bam, bam ! " 
 
 November 2d. I liave to record my first real attack 
 of Afric^an fever. For some days back I liave been 
 dreading the results of camping so often and traveling 
 so long among these marshes. The heat of yesterday 
 was intense. I got into camp very exhausted, and sat 
 by the fire for some tim.:, feeling chilly, then sought 
 warmth in my tent, wrapping myself in several blank- 
 ets ; but the ague took hold of me in earnest, and con- 
 tinued until near midnight, while luy mind was har- 
 assed by the saddest thoughts and most melancholy 
 forebodings. This was followed by the hot stage, find- 
 ing relief only in the next stage, when perspiration 
 began to flow copiously and continued until daybreak. 
 
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 EX TF.MPORI/.F.D MOR T.-IRS. 
 
 rji 
 
 when I jjot up, drjiiik a cup of coffoo, Imt could not 
 look at my cold porrid^jjo. I sounded tlio huj^dc and 
 aroused tlu; camp, and in half an hour moro t;;ot on 
 the path, feolinjjf very weak and shaky. My poor doj;* 
 Gyp refuses her food, and looks as if she would not 
 follow us much farther. I am jLjrieved for this; sho 
 has boon <<ood company, runniii};' alonu,' at our heels 
 all the day, and keeping:; faithful wat<*h ovei* the loads 
 at night. The Imrninu: sand and heavy swamps liavo 
 lately pro\-ed very tryin<i to her, and sometimes sho 
 will not arrive in camp until hours after the last man 
 is in. 
 
 We met a lar.u'e caravan in cliarj^e of half-caste Portu- 
 guese coming from the Barotse, laden with rul>l)er and 
 over on«' hundred tusks of ivory, varying in size from 
 three to six feet in length; they had also about tw() 
 hun<lr<Ml and forty head of cattle. They have lu'cn 
 twenty-four days since crossing the Zambesi, having 
 had to follow the marshes and windings of the streani, 
 so as to find grass for the stock. At 7 a.m. we entered 
 a dense jungle, with scarcely any visibh' path. Kain 
 had fallen during the night, so that the bush was heavy 
 with water; and, having to lead the way, in a few min- 
 utes I was drenched to the skin, and remainr'd so until 
 we got into camp at noon, by the swamp where the 
 river Kusivi has its origin. 
 
 On the 4th we reached Kalumbwi, and here again 
 we have to delay a couple of days to i)repare meal, as 
 another uninhabited country of forest and jungle Vwh 
 before us. The men succeeded in borrowing only one 
 wooden mortar in which to pound their coi'n ; and as 
 I have promised but two days for this purpose, several 
 
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 V2'2 
 
 RF./1UTY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 of tluMii liuvo ^0110 into the forest to ext«Miiporizo a fow, 
 HO us to expotlito the Avork. Thoso uro produced more 
 speedily than one would iniJiji:iue, as they are neither 
 hewn nor dujj: out, like those in ordinary use. A tree 
 with a thick, soft, yieldinj^ bark, eijyht or ten inches in 
 diameter, is st'lected au<l felltMl. Fi'om it a lo^ about 
 three feet six inches is cut, when th<>y i>roceed at one 
 end to dexterously fold back the bark, as in rolling up 
 a coat-sleeve, for fourteen in<'hes, wIhmi the denuded 
 wood is carefully chopped square otf, leaving a smooth 
 surface ; the bark is then returned to its oriji:inal i)osi- 
 tion. Next a stick four or five feet in length and two 
 and a half inches thick is peeled, the ends rounch'd, and 
 a very servicoabl«», if not durable, mortar and pestle 
 is ready for use. 
 
 Villa.<;es have been more frequent than west of Kan- 
 S'amba; but thoug'h we are thereby better supplie<l with 
 food, the denser population is far from being' an unal- 
 loyed blessing to us, for, if there is beer to be had, my 
 men are constantly framin*;: excuses to stop over a day 
 or two, until I biggin to realize that my own small 
 stock of groceries is all but exhausted, though we are 
 yet many marches from our <lestination. The men are 
 making fresh demands for rations, although tliey have 
 already received more than was agreed upon at start- 
 ing. I offered to divide among them, as a gift, twenty- 
 four pounds of beads ; but they coolly told me it was 
 not enoiigh, they must have two yards of cloth each 
 besides. On declining to accede to their unjust de- 
 mands, I was told to make myself comfortable — which 
 meant that they intended to pit their patience against 
 mine. This is easy enough for them, as anywhere is 
 
 '::<rf^ 
 
 S;': 
 
 « 
 
 T 
 
 iii 
 
1 
 
 A COMVLlMi.NTARy DANCE. 
 
 123 
 
 T 
 
 home to tlie African while there is something to eat; 
 so very likely they will got tiio best of it in the emi, 
 hut not to-day. 1 observed several of tlu' woim-n wear- 
 ing pieces of wood about tlnve inehes long and half 
 an ineli thick through the lobe of the rigli* ear, wlnle 
 many of both sexes have their heads <'losely thatched 
 all ronnd with re<l bea<ls. Cloth is in little denian<l 
 among them, but an enipty Jam or sardine tin, oi', bettei- 
 still, ii brass cartri<lge shell, which they nse as snutf- 
 lioxi's, will buy ii basket of manioc meal. 
 
 In the afternoon the chief of Kahunbwi i)aid the 
 usnal visit, followed by a tremendous <*rowd of na- 
 tives, lie went lirst to the headmen and asked them 
 to walk witli him to my tent. Like his people, he was 
 all l»ut naked, and nuide no attempt to act the grandee, 
 lik<' most chiefs. He is a handsome, well-l)uilt savage, 
 and far less repulsive in his nakedness than the half- 
 draped, half-civilized mitives of the west, with their 
 greasy shirts aud dirty loin-cloths. I entertained him 
 as best I could, while he expressed no end of ph^isuro 
 at everything I had to show him. On leaving, ho hinted 
 that as I was the first white man he had ever s«'en, he 
 would send his people tliat night to do in(> honor. 
 AVhat form this "honor" was to take remained a mys- 
 tery until nearly eleven o'clock, when I was roused by 
 a terrific noise close to my tent. Jumping up, T rushed 
 out, to find a high fire blazhig, spears, battle-axes, bows 
 and arrows, etc., stuck in the ground at ono side, while 
 some two hundred young men and women dan<'ed in a 
 circle round the fire, as if their very lives depended on 
 the vigor with wliich they capered and wriggled their 
 bodies. For music, they had five big drums beaten 
 
iif 
 
 lL'4 
 
 Kt/tLi/Y VLRSUS KOM/iNCi:. 
 
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 ■ 
 
 1,. 
 
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 with tho opon Imiul, i)i'()<lu<'iu^ ii noise tliat was posi- 
 ti\cly (Icjit'ciiiiij^'. I «'ui'ii«'stly hoped tiiey would not 
 j)i'olonjjj tlio (h'nionstratioii past nii(hii;;lit ; hut as tho 
 hours went hy the unearthly din only ^i-ew more wild 
 and inoro unhearuhle. The nion(>tonous and discoi'danl 
 eiioruses on the same hi<;li-piteh'(l key over and over 
 ajj:ain, interspei'sed with howls and yells, made \\\) a 
 l>an(h'monium which to endure was to put one's saidty 
 to a severe test. At S a.m., wIk'U I su[»pose they eon- 
 sich'red I had been honored sulHeiently for one ni^ht, 
 tln'y ceased, and came to know how I liad enjoye<l it; 
 at tho same time pronusing* that if J would give them 
 each some salt they wouhl repeat tiie little treat tlu^ 
 followini;' ni,i,dit. Needless to say, there was no salt 
 distributed, an<l my reply is not recorded liere; but 
 they did not returti. 
 
 Tho carriers sent their spokesman to-<hiy with th(^ 
 niessaji,e tjiat tliey had do(3ided to accept my \r\U of 
 beads, i>rovi(U'd 1 adiUuI the two yards of cloth; other- 
 wise they intended to stay her«^ until their (h'lnands 
 weni complied with. Ilopin*;" to got square witli them 
 when i)ay-(hiy comes, I let tln^ni Inivo tlio stutf. Their 
 throat to remain hero indefinitely only shows tlio un- 
 reasonableness of their character, as, if they have moans 
 to buy food while in camp, they can find it to provide 
 for the road; but they are rogues, without a single ex- 
 ception. On tho journey I have tried to put confidonce 
 in five or six men, who appeared to be honest, intrust- 
 ing tliem with cloth to buy food for my Jamaicans ; 
 but in each case I found they were thieves. If any 
 one of them offered to do anything for us on the road, 
 it was oidy that they might have an excuse for extort- 
 
 
 .1! '')Ki; 
 
 
 ,L 
 
NUKSI- ASD COOK BY TURNS. 
 
 lL'5 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 \\\\r thro*' tiiiH's the vahu' of tlio scrviro roiuU'rod. 1 
 heartily indorse every word that Professor Driiminoiid 
 liiis written coneerninK tiie uvera^'o Afrieau carrit-r. 
 
 On tlie morning' of the !>tli w«' started once more, 
 skirting the uiarsli of the Kusivi l^iver for some h<»urs. 
 Both .lainaiea men are sulVerin;; from fever, and stiiii;- 
 ;>lin« alon;? with <j:reat dillienlty ; for some tJH'ee we»'Us 
 Frater has scarcely heeii u (hiy without it, althon^rh the 
 lieavy doses of (juinine )»(» is taking; make the intervals 
 lonj;,'er Jiow. When the two ai-e down I have to l»e 
 nurse and cook hy turns. I think it is pretty clearly 
 l)roven that the West Indian is ([uite as liable to mala- 
 rial fever as the Eui'opean, if not more so. AVe made 
 u short march and hi'oui^ht up at Kalomt) (altitude, 
 :J5r)() fe«"t). 
 
 Novendier lOth. We ma<le an early start to-day, 
 but had only ji'one seven miles when rain be^an t(> fall 
 heavily, and we iui<l to stop and stack the loads near 
 the villaji;o of Kusivi. As there was no sit^n of ;!'c 
 weather clearing, I ;L;ave orders to build luits for the 
 nijiht. r was surprised to see a nmnber of men come 
 round the camp with hoes on their shoulders, and was 
 told that all throu»jjli tlm eastern part of Gan^uelhi the 
 men work in the lields along' witli the women, durinjj: 
 the planting season. The land here is of a reddish 
 color, and the swanii)s by the river — in many ])laces 
 stretching out for half a mile on either si(U) — yield a 
 fair crop of KafSr-corn. Most of th(» villages are l)uilt 
 right in the center of the marsh, partly for the purpose 
 of w^atehing their patches of grain, but cliic'tly to be 
 less accessible to their enemies. Being surrounded by 
 water, the huts are built on piles some six or eight f<»et 
 
lL>li 
 
 REALITY yERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 fl ^1 
 
 ■tlH- 
 
 above the ground. A rough ladder, which they draw 
 up at night, is used to reach the platform at the entrance 
 of each hut. 
 
 Monday, November 14th. For the last four days we 
 have been traveling mostly in the forest, with heavy 
 rains every day. Yesterday morning dawned with tliick 
 fog and drizzling rain, and two of the headmen came 
 to say that unless I would promise to keep off the rain 
 the men refused to leave camp. A few minutes later 
 it began to dear up, when they picked uj) their loads, 
 shouting vociferously, and telling me I had done wi'll ; 
 but in less than an hour down came the rain in torrents. 
 Alas for my reputation as rain-doctor ! This was too 
 bad ! I had just kept it off long enough to get them 
 exposed to it, and then let it come ; and for the balance 
 of t.ie (lay I was in the bad books of the Avhole caravan. 
 
 A path through the forest is very good in hot, dry 
 weather, affording grateful shade ; but in the wet SL-a- 
 son for hours after the rain has ceased there is a per- 
 petual shower-bath from the trees and bushes. For 
 eight miles we trudged along, until everj'' stitch of 
 clothing was drenched through. Frater and Jonathan 
 managed to get into dry clothes on reaching camp, l)ut 
 the man carrying the bag with my extra suit had let it 
 fall into the water while crossing a stream, and the con- 
 tents were soaked. There was no alternative but to 
 wrap myself in my blankei and wait for the sun to 
 appear and dry them. We have seen no villages or 
 natives for the last three days. Oh, how I long to see 
 a white face ! Little did I think, in starting out on this 
 journey, that I would be so depressed with feelings of 
 intense loneliness. 
 
 
li'^y draw 
 eii trail c'H 
 
 days AV(> 
 li lieuv}^ 
 ith thick 
 Pii cuuie 
 tlie rain 
 <^s iatcr 
 1" loads, 
 le well ; 
 orreiits. 
 vas too 
 t til em 
 ->alaiiee 
 imvaii. 
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 127 
 
 
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 This morning broke very gloomy, threatening early 
 ruin. I had everything ready by 5.30 a.m., l)ut the car- 
 riers would not stir until after six, when, just as we 
 were leaving camp, a boy was seized with an epileptic 
 fit. Then a kind of circus connnenced, by the old men 
 performing around the lad with the fetich-horns, ex- 
 orcising the spirits that were supposed to be troubling 
 him. 
 
 At seven o'clock, however, we got off, pushing our 
 way through dense jungh' for thirteen miles, until we 
 emerged at the head of the river Cikulwi, which, being 
 al)out thirty-five feet wide and eight feet deep, we could 
 not ford, and weiv ol)liged to halt and improvise a 
 bridge. Pitching camp within a few yards of the river, 
 and cutting down small trees, by niglit we had fixed up 
 a rough trestle bridge, which, though rath(M" shakj', 
 served our purpose. It was made by phicing two 
 trunks of trees, with forked ends, upon each l)ank ; 
 these met and fixed into each other over the bed of the 
 river, and a man crawling along one of the trees lashed 
 the forks tog(^ther with bark. A few poles were forced 
 into the mud, and acted as sui)ports and braces to the 
 bridge ; the fastening of transverse bars ladder-fashion 
 was an easy matter, and the work was completed. It 
 will remain, I suppose, until swept away by the next 
 rains. 
 
 November l.lth. The caravan crossed on tlu^ woodtm 
 structure safely; but spanning the stream was ])y no 
 means the end of our difficulties, for all these rivers on 
 the plains are bounded by far-reaching marshes, and in 
 this case the swamp extended, green but treacherous, 
 and reeking with malaria, for half a mile. Over an 
 
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 128 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 hour passed before the last man had reached dry land, 
 tliough there was no standing' still; that only meant to 
 sink dee].'er. Tliose with loads every now and again 
 went dowii to tlie waist, while only the heads and loads 
 of others were to be seen above the mud, holding on 
 with their hands to clumps of grass until rescued hy 
 their companions. Tliis was but one of the many 
 similar struggles we have experienced in the niarshes. 
 We entered the thicket again, crossing the Kambuli, a 
 stream al)Out twenty yards wide bu^ "uly knee-deep, 
 and by noon reached Kalongo, having made a good 
 march of sixteen miles. 
 
 On the morning of the KJth we staggered out into 
 the path again, feeling very stiff and tired. We were 
 still in the jungle, and had twelve miles of thick under- 
 brush to contend with, our first opening being at the 
 ris(! of the Ninda. We passed the grave of a French- 
 man, inclosed by a palisach^. H(^ had been killed by an 
 "onyani" (wild ox). Ho had fired on the animal, but 
 only wounded it, and before he could reload, it charged 
 and gored him. 
 
 We are now out of the Gangut^Ua country, and on 
 the southern border of Loval(\ The landscape is beau- 
 tiful, rich green grass covering the plains. Still no sign 
 of natives or villages, for which I am rather thankful, 
 as the men make longer marches and travel better when 
 there are no attractions by the way and they know 
 there is no chance of replenishing their meal-bags. 
 Some have run short of food already, and have ])een 
 iligging for edible roots this evening, to eke out their 
 nearly exhausted store. I have kept a sharp lookout 
 all day for a shot at an antelope or a buffalo, as it is 
 
GAMIL IN ABUNDANCE. 
 
 Vl\} 
 
 ) 
 
 now nearly two weeks since my daily allowance of oat- 
 meal lias known any variation; even the wild honey is 
 finished; and this fare does not tend to strengthen me 
 for the long-, heavy marches. Still, I am thankfnl to be 
 in very fair health, with the exeei>tion of a pecnliar ver- 
 tigo that ti'oubles me every morning, bnt which passes 
 away after walking a few miles. It may be asked, Why 
 was not better provision made for the journey ? "Well, 
 i was informed 1 ) those who were supposed to knovv% 
 tliut five weeks at most would sec us at the Barotse. 
 Had we made the journev in that time, there would have 
 i»een no lack of food; l)ut nine weeks have passed since 
 we left Cisandni, and we are still, I beli(n-e, two weeks 
 from the Zambesi. One cannot calculate upon time 
 while having to depend for the conveyance of loads on 
 such fellows as the Biheans. 
 
 November l.Otli. This is the first bright day we have 
 had for a wecK. W(} started at six oV-lock. The course 
 of the Ninda to-day had many windings, to avoid which 
 we made slioi't cuts through the forest, steering due 
 east. This is the wildest country we hav(i seen. There 
 is plenty of game; we saw several herds of antelope, 
 eland, hartebeest, and onyani. We struck the fresh 
 spoor of ele[)hants at four different places, and at one 
 spot they had, either in a fight or in i)lay, torn up a 
 number of young trees, plowed u]) the ground, and 
 . strewn it with bi-oken brancli(»s. There is no ehanco 
 of getting near game, with a noisy crowd of men whoso 
 tongues never seem to weaiy. A buffalo that was gam- 
 boling about on the ])lain ;;s we passed charged the 
 rear of the straggling caravan, and although most of 
 the men were armed they threw down their guns and 
 
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 130 
 
 RHALIIY ymSUS ROMANCi:. 
 
 loads and liid in tlje Imsh. We saw eij^^lit largo snakes 
 witliin a mile; tliroe of tlieni were the venomous and 
 deadly jifreen manil)a. None of them attempted to show 
 light, but got out of the way as quickly as they could. 
 While threading my way through the thicket I ahiiost 
 stepp(Ml on a huge iguana that was lying riglit across 
 tlie i)atli; it m-'de oft' an<l scrambled up a tre(», when I 
 l)rouglit it down with my rifle. It measured four i'eet 
 thre(^ inches from tip to tip. I preserved the skin, and 
 the cari'iers begged the flesh, considering it a great 
 delicacy. 
 
 We reached Kalungalunga early in the day. I l)ought 
 several good-sized fish for a few beads, so we have a 
 splendid dinner for once. There are several vilhiges 
 in the vicinitv, but no meal cjvn be o1)taine(l without 
 sending eight miles to the north, causing another delay 
 of several days. 
 
 November 23d. After spending three days in last 
 camp, we had only gone six miles when we came w\)o\\ 
 a village where the natives said they had plenty of dried 
 fish. Tliei-e is no use trying to get the men i)ast; I 
 am sick of contending Avith them, yet unwilling to 
 take the law into my own hands and force them, which 
 eould easily be done, they are such arrant cowards. 
 If I can only bear with them the few remaining days 
 and get rid of them in peace, I shall be thankful. So 
 liere we must camp at Wanambuka for to-night. Were 
 I asked if the Bihean has a god. that he worships, 
 I should unhesitatingly reply, "Yes; his god is his 
 belly;" for three parts of his waking hours are taken 
 up with cooking, eating, and talking a))Out food. 
 
 November L'4th. Kain fell tlu^ most of last night, 
 
 li: llli 
 
 ! IH'4. 
 
A rr.TlCH-DOCTOR. 
 
 131 
 
 e snakes 
 ous and 
 to show 
 y < ould. 
 [ ainiost 
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 when I 
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 )»ouglit 
 have a 
 villages 
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 )ast; I 
 ing to 
 M'liich 
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 ;■ days 
 1. So 
 \V<'io 
 
 is his 
 taken 
 
 night, 
 
 and did not hoM up until half-past eight this morn- 
 ing. The men have given up asking me to control th(^ 
 weather since the day I allowed the rain to come down 
 just after starting. We have a carrier in our company 
 named Cirula, who the Ovimlmndu helic've possesses 
 wonderful power over the elements, and l)y (> a.m. he 
 was out shouting to the clouds and whistling to the 
 rain, whih; he burned a fetich-powd( r whi<'h he cai-ried 
 with him. After a great etfoi't and much hard work he 
 succeeded in stopping the rain at the hour named ; so 
 we struck camp. 
 
 The name "fetich-doctor" may he applied to all su- 
 perstitious pretenders found in Central Africa ; but in 
 reality the supposed power over and knowledge of the 
 unseen is api)ropriated to widely ditt'ereiit ends. As 
 all cases of sickness are attributed to sonu^ evil spell, 
 or the visitation of some ih'parted relative, friend, or 
 enemv, when a case of illness occui's the "divin<'r" is 
 applied to first, in order to discover the cause. This is 
 arrived at with much ceremony, and gmierally in tlu; 
 presence of a number of people, by a wearying program 
 of incantations, accompanied by the sacrifice of a white 
 cock. He feigns to <liscover a foreign body, in the 
 shape of a claw, or stick, or a piece of iron, generally 
 in the arm, leg, or head of the sufferer. Kesort is now 
 made to the "medicine-man," who professes ability to 
 cure all manner of sickn(^ss, from whatever cause. lie 
 makes no attempt to diagnose a case, but with myst,'- 
 rious words and genuflections he prescribes ami jidmin- 
 isters to the patient pungent decoctions from his stock 
 of dried abominations; and in order that the medicine 
 shall prove efficacious, the patient has often to be re- 
 
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 i;{2 
 
 REAUIY rHKSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 moved to an isolated hut. Sliould the treatment fail 
 to liave the desired effect, the skill of the " physieiaii " 
 would not be questioned. The diviner and medicine- 
 man play into each other's hands; and there is yet 
 another inicinitous impostor who must also lu' :• iisi(l- 
 ei • (1 a '^'' 'ue. in this nefarious firm — tli(! sorcerer, or 
 "oIh ;''..-i!ian." He is credited with power over spirits 
 to ciUiToi iJieir actions, or make void their designs hy 
 counter-witcih i"; he affects the crops and increase; 
 and to his ear are intrusted the secret desires of would- 
 be avengers, and by his iuferiiMl Avork jjo'sohs not 
 wanted are removed. 
 
 November 2r)th. Seeing game so abundant, 1 deter- 
 mined this morning to st;irt out half an hour ahead, 
 so as to get away from my noisy followers. .Vcconi- 
 panied by two headmen, 1 set out by daybreak, trav- 
 ersing during the first two hours seven miles of plain, 
 and sighting herds of buffaloes and antelopes, which 
 from the absence of cover were unapproachal)le. We 
 had just entered the forest when I saw three splendid 
 hartel)eests, two cows and a bull, grazing quietly at 
 abou*^ fiv(^ hundr<Ml yar<ls. (retting down on all-fours, 
 I crept along until I had shoi'tened the distance three 
 hundi'(Ml yards; the bull, always on the alert, got wind 
 of me, and, facing rouvid, began snorting and stamping 
 with his forefeet. R-dsing my "Express,"! fired and 
 hit him in the clu^st, when he staggered a few yards 
 and fell. By the time we had skimied and cut up the 
 carcass the carriers arrived, and we were soon under 
 way again. The meat was tender and (Iclicious — a 
 gi'cat windfall for us. I reserv<'d a small portion for 
 our own use, and had the rest distributed among the 
 
 
.-/ HUNTIiRS r.-IR.IDlSF.. 
 
 1 •>•> 
 
 I 
 
 raoTi; but in no instnncc was tlicr*' iui «^xprossion of 
 thankful,' 'ss, only u <,n-()\vl that 1 had not shot two 
 instead of one. 
 
 Any QUO comini; to this conntrv to lal>or in Christian 
 woi-k nuist 1m' rontont to look for his <'n('ouraj^('nu'nl 
 or nnvurd from some other soui'ce than from the people 
 he comes to benefit; for the white man, to them, is 
 only a presnnt-i»'ivin«? animal, or an oltjeet to he plun- 
 dered. Kespect lu'ini;' <,'au,ue(l hy 'lie amount of stuff 
 he distributes, if he has none t;' <iv he is despised, 
 and becomes Ww. subject of tlieiv ^ne» ; and contempt. 
 
 All aloiif^ now we observe i,li ;eli<2:ht the remark- 
 able change in the api)earanc(» of .he .'ountry compared 
 with the sterile plains whie: "" behind us — immense 
 stn^ches of luxuriant grass, shaded her«i and ther(» with 
 patches of palms. We are camped to-night in the for- 
 est i>rimeval; very little undergrowth, and magnifi<'ent 
 large trees. Any one fond of sport would find liere a 
 hunter's paradis(^, with almost every kind of African 
 game, from (hiikers to elephants. In the evening thr«»e 
 wild oxen camo trotting past my tent. I always pitch 
 it in these uninhaljited regions some distancf; from the 
 liuts, so as to be away from the noise at night. I picked 
 up my rifle just as a dozen men with guns came rusli- 
 ing out of camp, howling and shouting m full cry after 
 the game. This is their idea of hunting, and the reason 
 why they so seldom In'ing down anytliing; so I })ut up 
 my gun, knowing it was useless to join in sucli a chase. 
 I heard eighteen sliots fired before they returned ; re- 
 sult, animals scared a bit. 
 
 -# 
 
I i 
 
 M 
 
 riTArTi-:ij vii. 
 
 AinavAi, i\ Tin; uauotsk valley. 
 
 .Mutiny in ciiiiiii. — I'liiiotsc mitivcs.— Milk lni' llic first tiiiic. — 'i'ln' Ziiiiilicsi 
 111 "list . — Iifcf|)li()ii liy Kin;,' Li'WiiliiUil. — "\i> siin, _V() >ilo, yo sliu I " — 
 Siiiii.alions. — 'riif rnyjii rcsiiji'iicc. — " Fail nut. iit your ipciii I " — liiiintsc 
 lints. — iV initivc sci'vicc — lir\\!inil\irs imiliition. — Ijuildinj,' tiic Naii- 
 kwamla. — I'ayini; oil' caiTicrs. — i'lcsciili'il uilli an ox. — i)ininL; with viiy- 
 nlty. — Tilt' linrili'H i>\' liis iu'art. — iSritisli I'l'olcctni'alc — 'I'liicvcs am' 
 foiilicrs. — .^[()nsil'lll' Cniliai'ii's ii'ttci'.- 'i'lic itcilisji South .VlVi'-an ( 'oni- 
 (tany. — Conci'ssion-huutiny. — An cnniliatic ju'otcst. — A Icltcr I'ldni Kinj.'; 
 Ii('\\aiiil\a. 
 
 I I 
 
 u 
 
 N()\'lvMI}EK iMltli. This morn in,-', iiistcn.l of start- 
 ing', the carritM's, led Ity two rnscals, liwctc and 
 Kt'son.ti'o (who liavc ht'cn at ihc rool of almost cvci'v 
 ti-onhlc we have liad on ihc road), conscious that they 
 had cxactc<l from mc mucji moi'c than was (hic lor 
 I'ations, and i'cai"in,u" 1 should take it oil' their pay on 
 U'cttin.i;' to tlie IJarotsc, refused to take up their loads 
 uidess I })aid every man, in full, lici-c and now. They 
 strutted altout all day, thitd-ciny', no doul>t, I should be 
 ol)li<;'ed tt) comply, ('allin,i>' the hcadmeu to.u'ether, 1 
 told tlicm they could do as they pleased, but that 1 in- 
 tended startiui;' for the capital of IJarotse to-morrow, 
 alone, if necessary, where men would be found to come 
 l)ack foi' my loads, and the mutineers woidd lose all 
 their pay. This had tli<' desired etif(>ct, and they ]irom- 
 ised to start, Tln-y cannot do much now, as we are 
 
 1.14 
 
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t . — 
 
B/iROTSF. N/iriyns. 
 
 i:\:> 
 
 witliiu three or four «luys ol' Lialui, ninl tlu'i'e uceouuts 
 will l»<* s»iUiir(Ml. 
 
 On tlu* iiioiTow I sent two nuMi with, as is ciistomjuy, 
 a letter and i»reseiits of eluth to Kiii;^ Lewaiiika, re- 
 (juestiiijjj permission to enter liis country. 1 also sent 
 a letter to Monsieur ("oillard, the Fren<'h Jiiissionary. 
 
 The natives have their own way of earryinjx h letter. 
 Having' no pocket, and a corner of their loin-cloth not 
 heinj; the best roceptacle, they devise a plan to keep 
 the envelope clear of their greasy skins l>y slippini;' it 
 into ft cleft sti<'k, stM-uriui;- the open end hy tyin;;' it 
 with bark. When they i-est, the fre(» end is stuck in 
 the ground; and they hold it prominently as they 
 travel, the sight of an omakanda (paper that speaks) 
 generally securing for them a nieasui'e of prote«'tion 
 when passing among strangers, as they recognize tlu^ 
 fact that there must he a white man not far ott'. 
 
 Three more marches brought lis on the IJOth to the 
 thi(!kly populattul district of Kanete. None too soon, 
 for my food-supi)ly is at the lowest ebl), my rations for 
 the lust two days having been reduced to a few crackers 
 with two ears of roasted mealies. I hope we shall be 
 abl(^ to procurer n fresh sui)ply of meal hei'e, even if we 
 have to stav a «hiv or two. This is part of the Barotse 
 Valley. The natives are siil»jects of Lewanika, but 
 most of them are slaves belonging to the headmen of 
 the villages. These people are a mixture of sev(^ral 
 tribes captured in raids and war; they are of a lower 
 cast(> and are coarser featun^d than the (iaiii-'uelliaiis. 
 The women makt? no attempt at hairdressing, plaiti g, 
 or ornamenting; n few have beads round their )m < ks, 
 and most of them rin<»'S of iron jnid brans on (heir 
 
136 
 
 REALITY VllRSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 I' \\ '? 
 
 arms aii<l ankles. Tliere are no flint-locks among the 
 nion, but 1)ows smd arrows and assegais. This morn- 
 ing I saw <'ow's milk for the first time since coming to 
 Africa, brought in large gourds by a native for sale; 
 but as the native does not consider milk tit to use until 
 it has been kept for a wiH'k or so and becomes sour 
 and thick, tliis was tli(^ condition of nil that was 
 l)rought to-djiy ; l)ut they pi'omised to bring a gourd of 
 fresh milk to-i.iorrow. 
 
 W(^ {irc coiu-inciMl, ])y the appnrent abunchmce of 
 milk, tliiit the l»re(»d of cattle as well as the land must 
 l)c vastly supci'ioi' to anything of the kind in Bihe or 
 the West Coast; for although there are cattle at all the 
 mission stations, and the time we passed throiip:li was 
 the calving season, in no instance did Ave see other 
 tluDi condensed ndlk on the table. The education of 
 the Bihcian cow has thus far been neglected. 
 
 December 2d. For ten miles we follow(>d the western 
 border of the plain, and campcnl again at the edge of 
 a wood. Several villages are in sight, but the natives 
 are very shy. About 3 p.m. tli(^ two men I sent off on 
 the ))()tli with letters to the king and Monsieur Coillard 
 retnrniMl, and, to my dismay and <'hagi"in, said they 
 found no white people, and that tlx' king had forbid- 
 den, on pain of death, any white man to enter his 
 country. They could give no reason for having failed 
 to deliver th(^ letter to the king. 1 will, howevei-, start 
 in the morning and ;-.eek the white men, of whom I 
 have heard, and risk \\\o king's interdict. So, heaving 
 Frater in charge, I procuved a guide, and, taking Jona- 
 than, set out at <laybreak to walk to Lialui, the capital 
 of Barotse. After tramping for an hour and a half Ave 
 
 I 
 
 \u. 
 
 i! 
 
RUCEPTION BY THE KING. 
 
 137 
 
 reached the Zambesi. Procuring a eanoe, •we crossed 
 the famous rivei', wliicli at this point is about oiu^ huu- 
 <h'e(l and iifty yards wide, and called the Monj^ole drift. 
 Ilil)popotami were bathin,u; in the coo' waters just above 
 tlu' place where we crossed, but 1 was too preoccupied 
 to take much notice of them. Another hour br()Ui;ht 
 us to the river Kiml)0, wide l>ut not deep, so that the 
 guide was al)le to carry me onci- on his shoulders. Th(i 
 .H'rassy })lains on either side of us al)ounded with cattle 
 of smiill size, but in '■plcndid condition, while flocks of 
 wild geese Jind ducks were everywhere, within easy 
 gunshot. Foiu" hours nioi'c and we W(Te at Jjialui. To 
 the right, I observed a few huts, where I was told 
 "\\'liite men lived. Thither I l>ent my steps, found an 
 English trader ;uid a hunter of doubtful nationality, 
 and was heartily welcomed. I sent back the guide to 
 camp with orders for the caravan to come on in the 
 morning. 
 
 Later in the day I went to see Lcw.mika, whom I 
 found sitting in his "lekiiothla," or courtyard, in the 
 center of the town, with a ci-owd of people kneeling in 
 semicirch^s befor<; him, near or far according to their 
 rank. The deep, yielding sand is a mercifid provision 
 foi- those who hav(s to remain in this position for hour,« 
 together. I was gracicmsly received, and could not Imt 
 feel that at last I was face to face with a real African 
 king, compared with whom the many T had seen were 
 but insignificant. Lewanika was plainly dressed in 
 Englisli clothes, and sat on an ordinary cane-bottom 
 chair; his manner was affable and free. In front of 
 him were his band of drummers and niariniha play<'rs. 
 Each company of men, as thev assembled at tli(^ <'ven- 
 
If' 
 
 138 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 I' 
 
 m 
 
 I- \ 
 
 I' \ 
 
 ,1 
 
 1 
 
 Hi \ 
 
 .'■■ 
 
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 iiig eomic'il, wliilo still at some distance began clapping 
 their hands in unison ; and befon? taking their ])laces 
 raised their hands above their heads and shouted the 
 royal salutation, " Yo sho, yo sho, yo sho ! " After 
 kneeling, they continue clapping, and bow their faces 
 to the earth three times. To all this i)()inp and cere- 
 mony, with which the Marotsi have for ages sui'rounded 
 their sovereign, Lewanika i)aid no attention (although 
 I understan<l ho is not indifferent to it), but kept up a 
 long conversation with me through an interpreter. He 
 could not quite understand why I had come so far 
 simply to see the country and the people, for he said, 
 "All the white men Avho come here either want ivory 
 and skins, or liberty to hunt in my teri-itory." 
 
 The mode of salutation among the Marotsi is peculiar. 
 Tiuy ai)proach a superior chipping the hands and re- 
 peating the word " lumela" ; but to ('(juals they ol)servo 
 three different grades (see illustration), according to the 
 d' gree of friendship or relationship existing between 
 them. Those having a slight acquaintance with each 
 other will on meeting lay down their sjieai's or what- 
 ever load they may be carrying, and, seizing each other 
 by both handr, elevate them to about tlu' level of their 
 eyes, lowering and raising them three times, silently 
 gazing into each other's face, and conclude the cere- 
 mony by squatting down and passing the snuff-box. 
 The second mode of greeting applies to individuals be- 
 tween whom a closer fritMidship exists; the same dund) 
 show is performed, but in this case the parties kneel. 
 The third form is observed oidy by lu^ir relations, and 
 differs from the second in that each with his right hand 
 seizes the left hand of the other, palm U])wai'd, on which 
 
 i^'SS- 
 
THE ROYAL RLSIDENCE. 
 
 139 
 
 inc. 
 
 he in)i)ivt-'S(>s u p)'oloii«:;(Hl kiss, or kisses, accordiug to 
 the wiu'iiitli of their attuchiiicnt. 
 
 Deeeinber 4tli. Early in tiic iiioriiiiij>: u messeii.u:er 
 came from the kiiit;' with his i;reetiiiy;, and to know if I 
 had slept well ; at tlu' same time expn^ssing his dt'sire 
 that I should live in his village durini;- my stay in the 
 valK'y, and statinu' that a house was already i)repared 
 for nie. He also sent an invitation to lunch with him 
 at noon. Sueh kindness and civility from a chief in 
 the interior of Africa I was totally unprepared for, as 
 past experieni e had led m(^ to look upon them merely 
 as ^'reedy heu'^^-ars, who nevt'r offenvl the white man ii 
 I)altry Itasket of meal without expectin<i" ten timi^s its 
 value in return, Tiiei'e havci certainly been exceptions, 
 such as the chiefs at (*iyuka, Kidvcnia, and Kwanza. 
 
 Noon found the Eiiiiiish trader and myself at the en- 
 tranc<^ of tlie re<Ml-mat inclosure within whieh is the 
 kind's residence, surrounded by some twenty hu'g'e huts, 
 the domiciles of his nuni'rous wives. The entire ul)- 
 senc(> of dirt and rubbish is a pleasin,!;' feature of Lialui ; 
 but still nioi'e praiseworthy is the well-kept and orderly 
 condition of the royal inclosure, rennndini;' one of a 
 military foi't in time of peace. Lewanika was sittinj^ 
 at the door of his house conversino' with his secretary; 
 but on seeiuij;' US he arose an<l bid us welcome in a very 
 g-enial manner. Tln^ buildini;- is after tlu^ hun<i:alow 
 style, and is the work of natives trained by ^\\\ Wad- 
 dell, a, Scotch carpenter at Sefula, ^Monsieur Coillard's 
 nnssion station. A nari'ow veranda runs alonir the front 
 of the dwelling', and, crossin.u' the threshold, we ent<'r 
 the sittinir-room, where oiily white ]H'0})le besides the 
 kin<;' are admitted. The walls of this room a.re com- 
 
1-iO 
 
 RUALITY yLRSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 1 'M 
 
 I '; 
 
 posed of re(Ml iiints, beautifully woven, in various de- 
 siiiiis, with tiio beaten bark of trees, dyed in several 
 coloi's — the work of his wives. 
 
 December 5th. No si<;n of my earavan yet; they 
 seem determined to follow their own sweet wills to the 
 very last. I went to ihc kin<;' and laid the matter be- 
 fore him, when he innnediately (lispatclied a messenger 
 with tiie order that they i»ut in an api)earanee at onee, 
 with tlie result that Ix'fon; night they were all here, and 
 very mnch fi'ightened. 1 never saw sncli a change in 
 the denieanor of any company of men. Just like the 
 cowanllv knaves! Xow thev know that thev have in- 
 cnrred Ihe king's displeasui'e, for he had told his mes- 
 senger 1o say they were to fail not, at their peril. They 
 have had a big scare. "It's a long hme that has no 
 turning.'" 
 
 All day there has been held in tin* " lekhothla " the 
 great nalive festival of tlie month — the dance of the 
 new moon. From early morning the (b'ums have been 
 going hard, and as 1 passed through the council-yard 
 at noon the dance was at its height, i)erformed by some 
 three hundred men, di'aped almost lunforndy in kilts of 
 leopards' tails, and ostrich feathers in their hair. It 
 laste(l until sundown. Ibit evei'y night there is a dance 
 foi" a couple of honrs, eommeneing at ten o'clock, and 
 the <lrumming continues u ith brief intervals until day- 
 light; this is foi' tlie i)urpose of driving off the evil 
 s]>ii'its that ar(; incline(l to <Hsturb the king's slumbers. 
 T now occupy the premises |)rovided by the king, con- 
 sisting of two larg(^ huts, one of which was assigned to 
 Fratev and Jonathan, TIh^ construction of those huts 
 is peenliar, and deserves jnore than a passing notice. 
 
 J. ity *?:•■+, 
 
ions de- 
 soveral 
 
 t; they 
 s to the 
 ittor be- 
 psst'iiger 
 at once, 
 lore, and 
 laiige ill 
 like the 
 have in- 
 lii.s iiios- 
 1. They 
 1: has no 
 
 hhi " the 
 of tho 
 ave l)eeii 
 ncil-yavd 
 ])y some 
 ;i kilts of 
 hair. It 
 ? a dance 
 lock, and 
 intil day- 
 the evil 
 ;Uinil)(^i'S. 
 iiisi;, con- 
 ^(iti'iied to 
 U'SO hilts 
 a; notice. 
 
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 o 
 
 < 
 
 < 
 
 < 
 '■$■ 
 
 U) 
 
 .J 
 
 ^H^^^TS^BP'F^fS'JKs 1^ ' 
 
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i 
 
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 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 ! 
 
 ' ll 
 
 i 
 
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 ■ 1 
 
 
 
 
 
li.-^ROIS/-: HUTS. 
 
 141 
 
 They consist ol' two cin-ular walls, one within the other, 
 nmde ot* reeds, and lK)th snrfaccs plastered over by hand 
 with u mixture of (•ow-(hin,u' an<l sand, or pret'eralily 
 ant-hills, when ol>tainahIe. The floors are made with 
 the same l<ind of cement, well trodden with the feet, 
 and suhsecjuentiy smoothed in th<' same fashion as the 
 walls, a tinishini;' coat lieiiii;- added of hullock's Mootl, 
 which serves to harden and ^ive a polish to the snrfare. 
 The roof, mad(i of reeds closely wo\-en to,u<'ther and 
 thatched with <;Tass, and extendin.i!,' lieyoiul the outer 
 wall several feet, forms a shade all round the hut, and, 
 as it rests on hoth walls, forms an inner and outer com- 
 partment, perfectly lii;ht-ti,!.':ht, liavin.i;' no windows, and 
 1 nui;lit say "air-tiu'ht " too The inside or sleepinn- 
 room is stillin^ly hot an<l ci — , st that I prefer to sleep 
 in the outer section. In the hii'ii'est dwelling's the doer 
 is oidy about four feet lii<:,h by two and a half Avid(\ 
 The privacy of each t'amily is secnred by inelosin.ii" their 
 yard with a, tall reed IVncc. Our huts ar(^ neai'ly new, 
 conseqm'utly the smell is very stronj;'; but we ari; 
 ji:ettin*:: used to it. 
 
 Decend)er (ith, Sunday. The chief's seci-etai-y, Saji- 
 ka, who has been educated in llasutoland, had a ser- 
 vice in the villa,u'e, readiiiu' a portion of Scripture and 
 sini^'iui;' some hymns with the boys who are under the 
 tuition of ]\Ionsieur Coillard at Sefula ; but intheeven- 
 ini;' the drums b(>at an<l the dance yoes on as on other 
 nij;'hts, loudly and fiei'cely. until two o'clock in tIk' 
 morniui;'. Tlcre is a manifest stru.u'u'le o-oinu' on lio-c 
 betw^eiMi li^ht and darkness; so far, the latter is in the 
 ascendency. 
 
 I spent three hours of the afternoon with the kinu-, 
 
 ;-Jf*'j» , 
 
 •■W'! 
 
 um 
 
 igj-fa-^k? 
 
r 
 
 '' ,1-' 
 
 ■jM 
 
 142 
 
 RI.AI.ITY IhKSLS ROMANCE. 
 
 our convorsation being iiitcrprctod ]»y ji blnck l)oy, who 
 knows u little Enjj^'lisli, haviiij^ hccu hrouylit wys at ('mi)o 
 Colony. Jjcwaiiiku says he l()n,t;s for lii;iit and knowl- 
 ('(l<^v, and wonders W'liy more missionaries do not eonio 
 to teaeli him and his people. It must not he imau'ined 
 hy tliis, howext'i', that he yearns I'oi- a knowledge of tlu^ 
 ,U'osp('l. iJy no means; he wants Icachci's to instruct 
 his people how to read and write, l»ut especially to train 
 them as carpenters, eubinet-nndvi'rs, ))]acksnnths, and 
 for otlier trades, that they may make I'urnitui'e and 
 build houses for Inni. Xon*; of his people dare own u 
 chair, or l)uild a squares house, or put a wooden door 
 or a window in their hut; the ri^lit to p»ossi>ss sucli 
 luxuries h(! reserves to Inmself. But lie lias a lireat 
 idea of the ability of th(^ Marotsi to learn the various 
 arts and become Avise like; E'iropeans. lie is by no 
 means an idler himself, much <;f his tinii^ bein.u' spent 
 in wood-carving, with very primitive tools, turning t)Ut 
 liowls and other dishes of won<lerful symmetry, and 
 exhibiting exceptional skill and taste. At present \n- 
 is l)usy with his men building the annmd Nalikwanda. 
 This is a monster canoe, constructed from a number 
 of smaUtM' ones broken up to yield planks foi- tli(> un- 
 gainly craft. It m(»asures a hundred and twenty feet 
 in length by fifteen feet Iteam, is flat-bottome(l, has no 
 keel and no rils, and will only be used in taking the 
 king in state with his wives to his mountain village, 
 some thirteen mik's off, where he spends a cou})le of 
 months each year during the time wIk'U the plain is 
 inundated with water by tli(> overflow of th(> Zambesi. 
 Ere the waters dry u]) he returns again, and the boat, 
 that re(iuire(l months of labor from hundreds of men, 
 
r.ni\G oil- C.IKRIl-RS. 
 
 \r.] 
 
 h. used no iiiorc; iinotlicr one is Imilt for the following' 
 yt'iir. It is iiiaiuiiMl only Ky cliicl's, iiiid none liut the 
 aristocracy ari^ ullowcil <>ii lioai'il. I>ut if llic Itack <>f 
 tills QUO docs not l)rcal< and slip tlic wlioji of tlicin into 
 tlio water I sliall be snr|iris('d. Last y.-ar IIu'N' si'Wcd 
 tlic ])laid<s touctiici" Avilli 1iai-l<; now tlicy lia\«' ^'ot a 
 step fnrtlicr, and arc joiinnu' tl"' pianl<s l»y overlay in i:; 
 the seams with l-ojirds and iiailini;' tlicni down with 
 four-inch natix'c spilscs, ;ind ha\'c, like the hiiilders of 
 the ark, "])itclie(l it wiihin and without with pitch." 
 
 Dcceinltcr 7th. I ]>aid otT' my caravan this moriuni;. 
 Not a sinulc ui'ttwi was heard from a mau ; they were 
 like a Hock of fi'i.uhtcncd sheep, lest I .should tell the 
 kini;' of their conduct on the road. I ijave to onvh the 
 full anuMint au'i'ced n[>on at iUhe; had they 1)ehave(l 
 hcttei', they would liave recei\'ed somethin,u' more, I 
 liad oidy to rcmend>cr that they had robbed me of at 
 least six weeks of my life, to iircvent a lit of i;'(>nei-osity 
 seiziniv me. 
 
 To-day the kinu- presented me with a fine fat ox. I 
 had it slau^iitered, and sent all but a tVw pounds of 
 the meat tolhe sub-cliiefs, as we cannot keep it lon,u'er 
 than two (hiys. AVhen we have meat for dinner, it is 
 meat alon(s for there is not a solitary veu'ctable to 1)6 
 laid except cereals. Yesterday we uot a few sweet 
 potatoes, hut so small that we could n(»t attem]»t to 
 peel them; and even these are only to ])e had once a 
 fortnight, as tliey are not ^rown in the vall(>y, aii<l 
 have to i)e bronuht a distance of fifteen miles. I liope 
 to ijet some meal to-morrow, when W(^ shall liave the 
 substantial Scotcli fare of "])orridu'e and milk." We 
 ^et abundance of the latter, as the king- has had three 
 
 .* 
 
It 
 
 ' 
 
 144 
 
 RL^U/Y ytiRSUS ROMANCi;. 
 
 COWS set iijmrt to Ix' inilktMl every day for our spcciiil 
 use. Firewood for llic " kitdicii " is very scai'co, every 
 heud-loud being ciirried not less than t'onrleen miles; 
 there is not u ))usli neai'er. 
 
 December Dtli. Three or fonr lioni's each day are 
 spent with Lewanika, discussing every conci'ivable 
 question relalinn' to black peo[>le. He is nineh inter- 
 este<l in Jamaica, and in all I havc' told him of that 
 country. Xothini;' <'oMld exceed his kindness to us so 
 far. I dined with him yestei'day and to-day, in a very 
 j;ood attempt at Enulisli style, but Tor th<' slave waiters, 
 who in brini;ing in oi' removing each <lisli did so ci'oucii- 
 ing on their knees (no natives is allowecl to stand it 
 Lewanikn's pi'esence), clapping their hands every time 
 they Avere empty; and when the repast was finished 
 the five slaves knelt in a row at the door and clapped 
 again, tluinking him for being pleased to eat the food 
 they had sei'vech 
 
 T told him to-(lay that 1 wished to visit Monsieur 
 Coillard at his station, eight<'en miles off, when he 
 offered me the use of a horse, and men to carry my 
 baggage. 
 
 I may mention hen^ that the burden of tlie conversa- 
 tions I have had with Lewanika, and the reason for his 
 having issued an interdict against white men eoming 
 into his country except at his discretion, is "svhat he 
 considers the bad treatment he has received at the 
 hands of the British South African Company. For 
 some years past Lewanika has l)e(>n writing and send- 
 ing messages to the English government, asking to be 
 included under "British ])rotectorate," as tlie chief of 
 Khama and others farther south. To none of his re- 
 
 ..m 
 
BRITISH PROIECrORMTE. 
 
 145 
 
 spcciul 
 
 miles; 
 
 lay iirr 
 H'iviilde 
 li intrr- 
 of that 
 () us so 
 1 a very 
 waiters, 
 eroneli- 
 itaiul ii 
 I'vy time 
 finished 
 (•lapped 
 h(i t'()<Mi 
 
 loiisieiir 
 lien he 
 
 UTV my 
 
 hiiversa- 
 
 u for his 
 •omin^" 
 
 kluit lie 
 at the 
 
 ly. For 
 1(1 seiul- 
 !<;• to he! 
 chief of 
 
 r his V(^- 
 
 quests (lid he reeeivo an answer until last year (ISDO), 
 when an a^eut of the company wus sent up to iuter- 
 viovv him, antl to iiej^otiate for tlio monopoly of woi-k- 
 iiij;' the mineral resources of his country, j^ivin*;' him 
 to understand that this meant hciii;;' under " British 
 l>roteetorate," as he had so lonj;- desired, and securing 
 his si^'iuiture to the concession. The aj-vent brought 
 presents which Lewaniku accepted, hecauso he was 
 told they were sent to him l»y the (^ueen of J']n,uiand. 
 \Vhei'cU[»on, as he himself expresses it, to jn'ovo that 
 he was u'lad that at last his wish was «::ratilied in heinjj: 
 under Her ^Majesty's protection, and that his heart was 
 whit(! toward her, he selected a pair of the finest tusks 
 of ivory in his jjossession and handed them over to the 
 r<'presentativu of the company, us a return present to 
 the Qui'cu. 
 
 lint he look<^d in vain for an acknowledg'tneiit from 
 Her Majesty, until he began to s^v^^pect that all was not 
 as he had understood it. This feelin*;' was encourag'ed 
 l)y traders and others comini? to the country, who told 
 him that the En.nlish government was in no way re- 
 sponsible for the actions of this company, and that he 
 was not yet under "British protectorate." And his 
 suspicions were confirmed when a book entitled "Zam- 
 besia" was published in the interests of the company 
 (June, b^iH), which contained the following statement 
 (and was translated for him), page V,\'): 
 
 "Mr. Lochnei" and the king parted in the most ami- 
 cable manner, his majesty returning the traveler's pres- 
 ent by the gift of two fine tusks of ivory, each consider- 
 ably over one hundred pounds in weight and ov(n' six 
 feet long. These now ornament the board-room of the 
 
 ■•^,.:C.*-S:f.ri'ft. 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
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 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 
 
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 RLALllY VERSUS ROMANCF.. 
 
 Jii'itisli Soutli African Company in their palatial office 
 iu fc)t. Switlions' Lane." 
 
 Now Lowanika's ra<jfe was at white-heat, and ho had 
 no name for Enj^iisiiiiM'n hut "thieves and robhei's." 
 Uuhjippily, Mon!^i«'ur Coillard and his colloajjfue ^lon- 
 sieur Jalla were seriously eoniproinis*'(l in tlu' nuitter, 
 th«'y havinjjj acted as interpreters for the ajjjent, f()n<liy 
 hopiiiji^ that tlicy were d<)in«( a service to the king and 
 couiilry, hut now judged ])y the king as abettors in the 
 attempt to sell his country. The l"ollowiiig letter, writ- 
 ten by Monsieur Coillard to the secretsuy of thi^ Biitish 
 South African Company, will bi'tter exi»lain his unenvi- 
 able position at that time, and the effects of which re- 
 main until now. 
 
 Sefula, Barotse Valley, Upper Z^uibesi, 
 
 June 5, 1891. 
 Dr. H. Harris, 
 
 Secretary to the B. S. A. Co., Kimherhi : 
 
 Sni: Tliis mail will bring you a lucssngo from King Lewanika, 
 and Mr. Middlcton will remit to you from him through me tlie £200 
 paid to the king by ^Ir. Jjoehuer " as the first annual payment of 
 the Ware Concession." 
 
 You are aware that three years ago the king applied for the pro- 
 tectorate of the British government. lie was assui-ed of the friend- 
 liness of the govenniient, of his request being seriously considered, 
 and that the reply should be conveyed to him at once. That long- 
 expected reply has never come. 
 
 Meanthne, Mr. F. E. Lochuer was last year sent to this country by 
 the B. S. A. Company. Tiiat powerful company, with royal charter, 
 introduced to us and recommended to us by persons on whose judg- 
 ment I could rely, strongly recommended also to King Lewanika by 
 the chief Khaiua, wlio escorted it V)y a special messenger, won at once 
 our conlidence. On the strength of the terms of tiie treaty that " any 
 agreement with the company was to be considered in the light of a 
 t" 'aty or alliance made between the nation (the Barotse) and tlie 
 
 r 
 

 
 2 
 

 jaar 
 
MONSIEUR COILLARDS LETTER. 
 
 147 
 
 Government of Her Britannic Majesty Queen Victoria,''^ the envoy of the 
 company overcame all difficulties, the concession was gfranted, and 
 the treaty sigrned. 
 
 The Rev. Adolph Jalla and myself were fully satisfied that the 
 transaction was on both parts made in perfect good faith ; it is why 
 we gave our support to it. I was anxious to see this unhappy coun- 
 try, a liot-bed of constant intrigues and revolutions, where is so little 
 secuiity for property or life, i)ass under the protection of a strong 
 but wise and humane government ; and in the firm conviction that 
 this great end had been attained, King Lcwanika's power strength- 
 ened, and the welfare of the people secure, I sincerely rejoiced in 
 tlio signing of the treaty. 
 
 Since tlien. King Lewanika has not failed to take advice of other 
 men — men who profess to know more of these' matters tluin we do — 
 and the transaction was represented in a very different liglit. We 
 are accused of having been bribed by the company, of having sold 
 the whole of the country, of having pui-posely withheld from the 
 king the true nature and full import of the treaty, and, in complicity 
 with the company's representative, of having willfully deceived the 
 king and his people. 
 
 This the king, in spite of his personal regard for us, resents bitterly, 
 and the words in which his message is framed give but a faint idea 
 of the state of Ids mind. All these rumors liavo spread lika fire, and 
 have thrown the natives into the wildest state of excitement. 
 
 To this partly may be attributed the shameful treatment which 
 one of the Primitive Methodist missionaries has lately suffered at 
 the hands of the people, under the most trifling pretext. 
 
 Now, if the aim of the B. S. A. ('ompany is what it is represented 
 to tlie king, a mere gigantic mining and land-securing scheme, and 
 if the British Protectorate has been used simply as a blind, I emphat- 
 ically protest against it, and regret if I have unw ittingly been a dupe 
 and an accomplice in such transactions. 
 
 The fact that during all the time of his long-protracted sojourn in 
 this country Mr. Lochner was my guest, and that of necessity I served 
 as the only medium in all his intercourse with the king, has greatly 
 compromised me in the eyes of the natives, and caused me to appear 
 to them as being identified with the company. They, of course, give 
 me credit for far more than my share in the business. 
 
 Ji \ 
 
148 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 Matters having assumed such a threatening aspect, and being, as 
 far as our safety and our mission are concerned, in so grave n posi- 
 tion, I must decline having in the futui'e any more to do in these 
 matters. Believe me, sir, 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 Francis Coillard. 
 
 hi 
 
 
 
 The company of course deny that their affent treated 
 tvifh Leivau'ika under the (/tiise of the Qneen^s represen- 
 tative; but letters written by him at the French mis- 
 sion, station to the king, inclosed in envelopes marked 
 O. H. M. S. (On Her Majesty's Service), and from which 
 we quote, place the matter beyond doubt. 
 
 " I am sending to you to ask whether it is possible 
 for you to let me know api)roximately what date the 
 meeting regarding the establishment of British protec- 
 tion, etc., may be held. 
 
 " When I startM to come up here it was never thought 
 that there would be any delay or difficulty about the 
 protectorate, as you had written to the government 
 about it, and the government and the company thought 
 everything would be settled on my arrival here. 
 
 " Please also to remember always that I should never 
 have come up here if you had not written to the Eng- 
 lish government for protection. 
 
 "If you and your counselors accept the protection 
 of the Queen of England, etc., the company will send 
 traders into your country who will deal fairly with 
 you and your people, the same as is being done now at 
 Khama's town." 
 
 Lewanika forwarded an emphatic protest to Her 
 Majesty's Secretary of State in August, 1.S91, against 
 the concession, and is now looking anxiously for a re- 
 
 in 
 
A LETTER FROM l.EH',4NIKA. 
 
 U9 
 
 nd being, as 
 
 prave a posi- 
 
 do in these 
 
 COILLARD. 
 
 ent treated 
 ( represen- 
 eucli iiiis- 
 ?s marked 
 •om which 
 
 s possible 
 t date the 
 sh protec- 
 
 r thought 
 
 about the 
 
 )vei'nnient 
 
 y thought 
 
 e. 
 
 uld never 
 tlie Eug- 
 
 irotection 
 Avill send 
 lirly with 
 le now at 
 
 t to Her 
 L, against 
 for a re- 
 
 ply. My excuse for i-eferring to this matter, apart from 
 the personal entreaties of Lewaiiika himself during my 
 stay at Lialui that 1 might give publicity to his griev- 
 aui'cs on returning to Europe, is the following letter, 
 dispatched to me by special ruinu'rs, overtaking us 
 jv^hile on my journey down the Zambesi : 
 
 LuLCi, Jan. 10, IS92. 
 To Dr. Johnston : 
 
 King Lewaiiika hopes you will not forget him and his wisht's, hut 
 trusts you will use all the coniphiints and all the desires ho has ex- 
 pressed to you verbally to his advaiitaffe and that of his people and 
 country. And further, the king coniniands and authorizes you here- 
 by to make known and to publish all that he has niado known to you 
 biinself ; and further, to pul)lish his determination, and that of his 
 people, that vm force must be used by any person or persons to en- 
 force his submission to terms he ai)hors, and which he ditl not under- 
 stand, anil which he was led into tlirough ignm'ance and deceit ; and 
 if any force (as is tin-eatened illegally) is so used pending any answer 
 he may receive direct from Her Majesty the Queen and her govern- 
 ment, it will be resisted by foi'ce, as he will treat it purely as rob- 
 bery, and the conse«|uences will be upon such attacking forces. 
 
 And the king wishes it to be clearly understood that he truly did 
 not know that it was a company to work all the resources of his 
 country; but, on the contrary, he was repeatedly told that it was an 
 embassy from the Queen Victoria of England. But in this they de- 
 ceived him, and when they asked where were the lioundaries of his 
 rule, he did not know it was to mean tiie cimntry in which tiiey were 
 to have the solo rights of working, but they told him it was to define 
 the extent of his country to be under the protection of the Queen. 
 But as to rights to work resources as written, it was not so; ho never 
 gave away the rights to work solely the resources of his country, and 
 in proof of this, all who know his feelings on the subject and are at 
 all acquainted wit' the king know well that his chief ambition is to 
 bo instructed in all such i)ractical knowledge so that he can work the 
 resources of his country by himself and his people ; and he intends 
 to do so, as he will not recognize any bond obtained from hira by 
 

 1 
 
 n 
 
 ' I 
 
 i 
 
 
 i 
 
 150 
 
 REALITY yRRSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 ignorance and deceit. Moreover, he gavo IiIh word on the matter, 
 siuiply as he gave it to Harry Ware, i.e., to seek ^oUl, and, on find- 
 ing it, to acquaint the king with the fact, when tiruas of land would 
 be defined where thoy could work solely; and when he and his people 
 had learned the methods employed, ho with his people would work 
 for themselves outside of those areas that had been allotted to tlio 
 company. He never intended, he did not consent, and he will not 
 consent, to part with the resources of his country. En^lishuiun ho 
 likes, and his political preferences are all in favor of Kiigland; but 
 the using of thuii' Queen's name to hide their evil designs he cannot 
 understand. If the Queen I'eally wished his land, his rights, and 
 resources, would she not sen<l direct? A treaty of friendship with 
 the Queen direct does not surely mean that he is to be weakened at 
 all ; and if all these industrial rights of his are parted with forever, 
 then what inducement remains to induce them to learn anything of 
 industrial arts? The king SJiys he feels sure that if all these thiugH 
 can ))e known in England as the words- of the king himself, then tho 
 English Queen and her people will not permit such deceit, mean 
 advantage of ignorance, to be done in their name and with their 
 approval. 
 
 The king says deceit like this is robbery, not friendship, and it must 
 be treated as robbery, and so has fully determined, and his people 
 suppoi't him in this. Moreover, those who wish to come to his coun- 
 try must come with sincere feelings toward him and his people, and 
 of supporting the king in maintaining his rights to the resources of 
 his land. He wishes them to come, but on terms of submission to 
 his law, and of agreement to do nothing disadvantageous to Inm, 
 his people, or his land, or the rights appertaining thereto, either by 
 word or letter, or by deed — such bond or agreement to be in writing, 
 any refusal to be taken as opposing the interests of the king. Apart 
 from this. King Lewanika does not wish it to be understood or thought 
 that by this he closes his land against white people ; by no means ; 
 but this insures and secures to him people who will help him and 
 teach him, rather than those who only seek to deceive him and try to 
 despoil him of all he possesses of value. The king wishes to cordially 
 welcome all who come willing to teach and to help him and his peo- 
 ple to know and understand the works and industries and the knowl- 
 edge of civilization ; he wants secular as well as religious instruction, 
 
I the matter, 
 uid, on find- 
 f land would 
 id his peopl(« 
 
 would woi'k 
 lotted to tlio 
 I ho will not 
 Khshnit'u ho 
 ugland; but 
 IS ho cannot 
 
 rights, and 
 (udship with 
 tveakeaod ut 
 v'ith forevoi', 
 anytliinj,' of 
 these things 
 elf, then the 
 leceit, mean 
 1 with their 
 
 , and it must 
 I his peoplo 
 to his couu- 
 people, and 
 resources of 
 bmission to 
 ous to him, 
 o, either by 
 I in writinpr, 
 ing. Apart 
 I or thought 
 no means; 
 Ip him and 
 1 and try to 
 to cordially 
 nd his peo- 
 the knowl- 
 nstruction. 
 
 i 
 
i 1 
 
 
LIGHT ON THE SUBJECT. 
 
 1j1 
 
 i.e., workH, trade, rcligrion, and oducntion ; and if tliey aro not disin- 
 torostod teacliers, but wish also to Iteneiit themselves whilHt benetit- 
 \ng others, the kiiijf siiyn it is well, us inifjlit be ajrreed upon ; but they 
 must submit to the kin^f, his uuthority, his rights, and his powers: 
 this is the <m(> bond ho will deiuund of them. 
 
 Further, the kinjf says it iiiiiy be said, on behalf of the company, that 
 \iv proved his full eonsent to them abiiut the c(mcession, by givinf^ 
 them two of the tiuest tusks of ivory seen here for a lonj; time, each 
 weighinff one hundred and five jiounds. Now he wishes it to bo 
 thoroughly understood, and to be published as his own statement, 
 that these tusks were not given with any intention or knowledge of 
 clinching an agreement of whieh he knew nothing about ; but, as 
 they insisted that they were an embassy sent ))y the Queen, and that 
 the presents they brought him were also sent by the t^ueen, so lie 
 accepted their presents and gave them the two aforesaid tusks as a 
 present to the Queen, as a proof of his friendly feeling toward Her 
 Majesty, and the Queen was to aecopt his exchange jtroduet as proof 
 thereof. Now, these tusks, because of tlieir extraordinary si/.n and 
 beauty, were worth the exceptional i)ri('e of one pound sterling piT 
 pound weight, therefore value jC'JIO, or more than the value of the 
 presents they brought to him. All this ho wishes to be we'l known. 
 
 Now, in conclusion, the king says ho trusts you implicitlj ; he sees 
 your heart is well toward him, even though you di«l not care to say 
 much here ; tho king wiys a man's heart always speaks true, and you 
 Lave always shown gi'eat sympathy toward him and his affairs. And 
 he says that if he really receives any practical help fi-om you on these 
 matters, you will receive from him and his nati«m their eternal thanks 
 and gratitude. And tho king further says that if (lod should call him 
 awaj', nevertheless his son and others may remain and remember 
 all they shall owe to you. He prays you a safe journey and safe and 
 joyful retura to your family. 
 
 Written at the dictation and by command of 
 
 The Kino Lewanika. 
 
 To Dr. J. Johnston, 
 
I 
 
 »] 
 
 t 
 
 CHAPTER VTII. 
 
 LIFE IN THE BAllOTHE VALLEY. 
 
 Tho heroic Fronohnmn. — A iiiodfl iniHHion station. — nii^litod plniiH. — A 
 toiu'liiii)? Htory. — Tlirillinjj tiiloH. — Triitli firHt. — MiHsioimry tidiiiKN. — 
 Koreans. — Aiimxin^ Ntiiti>in*>ntH. — Fiitilo liojii's. — I'rimitivi' Mt'tliddiHt 
 jmrty. — IIoiiih coniiiiittocs. — Virtmilly a prixoiu'r. — MiivotMi ImiiilicriiftH. 
 — In tin- Icltiiotlilii. — "A Hoiuiil of revelry by nijflit." — A pcriiolmil viij»oi • 
 1)iitli. — A blooiltliirsty queen. — Display of (ireworlts. — New Year's Day. — 
 First native weddin^j on tlie Zaniliesi. — Amused sitepticisni. — Ladies lake 
 n back seat. — Alagie-lantern exhibition. — Silence reigns. — The Maslinku- 
 hiinbwe. — Taking their ineusure. 
 
 DECEMBER lOtli. :^[ouiit(Ml on a fiiio blm-k liorse 
 unci oscoi'ted by u guulo, also ridinj;:, I st't out for 
 Sot'ula. Tho path lay southward across tho i)lain. Wo 
 passod numerous marshes swarminjjf with flocks of Avild 
 goose and ducks, at times so near that we could have 
 knocked them over with a stoni^; but here stones are 
 as rare as tho " roc-ogg/' In two liours and a half we 
 reached tho mission station. It may be imagined with 
 what delight I grasped tho hand of the noble and heroic 
 Frenchman of whom I had heard so much. The warm 
 greeting was mutual. I was introduced to Miss Kiener, 
 a Swiss lady teacher, also to Mr. Waddell, the Scotch 
 carpenter. The station is situated on a beautiful pla- 
 teau at the extreme end of the low range of hills run- 
 ning along the east side of the great valley. It might 
 well lay claim to the title of a model mission station, it 
 
 ir)2 
 
^/ MODEL MISSION STATION. 
 
 153 
 
 plniiH. — A 
 tiiliiiKN. — 
 MctliodiHt 
 itiiilicniftH. 
 ;iial vii|ii)i • 
 Ill's Day. — 
 iiidics tiiko 
 ■ MiiMliuku- 
 
 k liorst! 
 out for 
 
 111. We 
 of wild 
 (1 luivo 
 
 )iies are 
 half we 
 (I with 
 i heroic 
 e warm 
 Kiener, 
 Scotch 
 fill pla- 
 ns lUll- 
 
 might 
 tioiij it 
 
 '-:x 
 
 ■*jS 
 
 'vv; 
 
 4: 
 
 1 
 
 # 
 
 i' 
 
 is so fully equipped with every appliance for instruct- 
 ing the natives, not only in divine things, hut also how 
 to improve their social <'ondition. fcJo far, howev<'r, 
 tlii'se privileg(»8 have been but poorly appreciatetl, as 
 the jM'opIc know it would he little short of a crime to 
 attempt any improv(>ment in their dwellings. 
 
 The station contains a (im^ 'saw-mill with six span 
 of oxen for the motor power, hrick-making machines, 
 smithy with i)atent forge, miner's workshop, fitted with 
 every tool the mechanic re<inires, from a brad-awl to n 
 turning-lath«! — <'V<'ry building on the station, including 
 the trim little einn'eh, displiiying skilled workmanship. 
 I was grieved to lind Monsieur Coillard in a v<>ry low 
 state of health and dei>ress«'d in spirits. ]\rore than or- 
 dinarv trials and sorrows have fallen to the lot of this 
 faithful servant of (rod, not only in the dark outlook of 
 the mission's future and tlm <lifficulties that beset the 
 cause, dearer than life to him, but in the sore bereave- 
 ment he sustaine«l, but a few weeks ago, in the death 
 of Madame Coillard, the devoted eompanion and help- 
 meet of his thirty years' labors in Africa. 
 
 On Sunday T spoke through Monsieur Coillard to a 
 good congregation of the rawest-looking lot of natives I 
 have ever met inside a place of woi'shij). It was no easy 
 matter to speak to such i)eoj)ie, for, with the exception 
 of the boys employed or at school on the station, but 
 few, if any, have as yet (after years of unremitting toil) 
 manifested oven interest in, far less ability to gi'asp, 
 the most elementary truths of the gospel. They listen 
 quietly and respectfully, but there it seems to end. 
 
 Monsieur Coillard, in describing the present condition 
 of the work, says : " It is now seven years since our cxpe- 
 
154 
 
 RLAUTY yiMSLS ROMANCE. 
 
 fi I 
 
 \'\'; 
 
 dition crossed the Zambesi and tlie mission was started 
 — u lon^ time in one's short Ht'e ; and yet we are still 
 passing throuj^li that arduous and uninteresting;: period 
 of brt>al<iiij;' tlie fallow ground ami sowing;' the seed. 
 We anxiously watch for the apiu'arance of the little 
 cloud and the showers of l)lessin,us which it shall bring. 
 Sometimes a little mist in the atmosphere has fillinl our 
 liearts with hope ; then tlu^ mist vanished away, and tho 
 sun shone in a brazen sky, liercer and more scorching 
 than evei'. 'lie that ol»serveth th(> wind shall not sow, 
 and he that reganU'th the clouds shall not reap!' AVo 
 remembered it. The Lord has given ns grace to toil 
 on, plow and sow, and expect against all ajipi^arances. 
 We know that the seed is not lost. SiU'ntly, secretly, 
 uudei' the clods it germinates, and the Hrst shower 
 shall adorn with verdure our parched grcmnd. Tho 
 time shall come; th(»ret'ore we faint not. 
 
 "These last three years have l)een to us more by far 
 than all our missionary life years of toil, trials, and 
 suff(M-iiig. The social and political state of the country 
 lias been greatly disturbe<l by internal causes, and tho 
 advent of the British South Africa (\)mi)any. Sick- 
 ness and death have thinned our ranks as quickly as 
 we had the joy of reciMving help«u*s from Europe, at 
 great exp(Mise, and we have seen our brightest hopes 
 and our dearest plans blighted and dashed to tho 
 ground." 
 
 Such is the aspect of the most faitliful mission work 
 in rcalifif. Of nniuuicc we have already had far too 
 nuich from visionaries, who (Ummu it (essential to write 
 such accounts for the piu'pose of keeping up the inter- 
 est, particularly if they ai'e not guaranti>ed support, 
 
^ TOUCHING STORY. 
 
 155 
 
 3 started 
 are still 
 j; period 
 he seed, 
 lie little 
 ill briiijj:. 
 [illed our 
 ■, and the 
 eorclniig 
 not sow, 
 p!' We 
 e to toil 
 I'aranees. 
 seeretly, 
 : shower 
 ud. The 
 
 re by far 
 
 ials, and 
 
 country 
 
 and tho 
 
 . Siek- 
 
 liekly as 
 
 irope, at 
 
 st hopes 
 
 to tho 
 
 on work 
 far too 
 to write 
 le inter- 
 support, 
 
 
 ■'% 
 
 % 
 
 but have to depend upon casual voluntary contribu- 
 tions. In a pul>lished letter of one who was stranded 
 in Barotse a few years ago, but ultimately j?ot out to 
 the West Coast by attacliin.u: himself to the caravan of 
 a l*ortn,uuese trader, wc read: 
 
 "At one place, amon.ix the naknli, it was remarkable 
 how the [)eopU) seemed to o[»en their ears and hearts 
 nnd i;ave their time. 1 spent ten days anion*;- them. 
 Tlie first iive I went amoiii-' the villa<;-es, havini;- lari-'e 
 meetiii.u's, at which I told them of .lesiis and Jiis love. 
 As 1 could speak a dialect which many of thi'in uiider- 
 st<);)d, 1 could explain myself (piite freely to them. 
 They became very much int«rest(Ml in what they heard 
 me say, ;iii<l they said amonj;" themselves, 'A\'(^ are v.dy 
 tirins;' tlu^ white man out by comiui;' d;iy after day to 
 our villaii'es; we will no to him.' So, for th(> last live 
 diiys, we luul all-d;iy meetings — a most exti'aordinary 
 time, 1 might say, for Afri<*a. They kept up the <lis- 
 cussioiis among themselves, and l)efor(^ I left at least 
 two of the men stood U[) in the midst of their tribe, and 
 declare(l for Jesus before all th<Mr fi-iends, in their own 
 sim]>le language. Tliev acknowledti-e<l th.-it the things 
 we said to them w<'r<» true, and they reuounced their 
 superstitions and fetich worship. Since then 1 have 
 heard that they nro still longing for a return visit from 
 me, or that some other white teacher should go to their 
 country." 
 
 A very touching story, if it were true ! But (ivery 
 laborer of experience will bear nie out when I stat«^ that 
 there is not an autlaniticated instance on record of a 
 savage genuinely turning to (Jod or renouncing "their 
 superstitions and fetich worship " until he has been many 
 
;' I 
 
 
 l.j(i 
 
 Rt:\IUTY I'HRSUa ROMANCH. 
 
 iii<»ntlis, imd too oftoii yoars, under iiistrnctioii. Many 
 cai'iM'st iiM'ii wlio liavo toiled loiii:; in hreakinj? up tlio 
 fallow ,i;:i'onnd liave been called away from the spheres 
 of llieir labor without hein,i;' pei'initted to soe <'ven th(! 
 1)1. ide, I'ai" less the ear, that foretells a probalde harvest; 
 .did satistied not to reason why, but to olu'y. 
 
 'J'he niisehiet' created by such coniniunications as tlie 
 one <|iiote<l above is incalculable, .<;'iviiii;' a totally false 
 conception of the natui'e of the work, and lillin.i;' the; 
 niiiids of enlhusiastic ndssionary vohuileei-s with the 
 idea that the Centi'al AlVica natives "ai-e rea<ly and 
 waitini;' 1o i-eceive the uospel." The actnal facts beini;* 
 the \-ery antipodes of sudi statements, the effect is often 
 to di'ive the most san.uuine to the ()[>i)osite exticme. 
 Xoi" ai'c the wi'iters of sn-li ;M'licles alone to l)lame; 
 constant dejnands ai'e made upon them by theii' liomo 
 committees and supporters to pi-ovide somethin<>' spe- 
 cially thi'iHin.!^' I'oi- their "(piai'terly " or " annual " nieet- 
 iii.u'. Uut as the routine of a well-estal)lished mission 
 station seldom fui'iiishes matei'ial for " thrillin.u'" tales, 
 some must l»e jnade to or<lei'. Xor is this nierchandiso 
 in such missioiiarv repoi'ts likelv to cease while the 
 feeliiii;' <'xists that was expressed l)y a wealthy Christian 
 philanthi'opist, whose name is often to the froid with 
 lai'ue donations, and who spoke not only for Inmself, 
 but as representing;' tli<MMonied sul)scril)ei's to missions, 
 Avheii he said to a friend of mine, " \ uive only to suc- 
 cess." The followins^ exti'act is from Tlic Diitli, edited 
 by Dr. James lii'ooks, of St. l^ouis, ]\rissouri, 1 tearing 
 u]K)n this subject, thouu:h ref(M'rin<>' to another field: 
 
 " It is nevei- pleasant to writ(» of those who have j;'ono 
 to the heathen with the ^'osjiel, unless they can bo nien- 
 
 I i 
 
jf up tli«> 
 
 Spll('l'«i 
 'V<M1 t]l(5 
 
 liarv(>.st ; 
 
 IS ns tlio 
 illy false 
 llinj^' tli(( 
 with the 
 ady and 
 •ts Itciiii;' 
 
 1 is ol'lcu 
 
 CXllCUU'. 
 
 ) l)laiiH'; 
 jir lioiuo 
 ins; spo- 
 
 1" llHM't- 
 
 inissioii 
 ,«;■" talcs, 
 'liaiidisu 
 liilc tlio 
 'lii-istian 
 1)1 it with 
 miiiis<'lf, 
 liissioiis, 
 
 to suc- 
 |/, edited 
 hx'aviiig 
 
 iold: 
 
 Ivc ^'ono 
 
 Ijo men- 
 
 I 
 

 if 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 i i 
 
 ! ' I 
 
 I : 
 1 ; i 
 
 ii> 
 
 ^' Hi 
 
 '! •»: 
 
 '11, 
 
 I 
 
 r- 
 
KOREANS. 157 
 
 tioned in terms of aifectioiiate oommondation. But 
 there is danger that the church at homo may be misled 
 by false reports of marvelous success ; and even if the 
 facts are discouragiujj:, it must not be forgotten that the 
 truth is expedient. It is so deliglitful to believe that 
 all the missionaries are thoroughly loyal to the Word 
 of God, and wholly devoted to the work of saving the 
 lost, and that pagans and jNIoliannnedans are standing 
 with outstretched hands, eager to receive our Lord 
 Jesus Christ the moment lie is presented to them ; but 
 such, it is sad enough to say, is not th(» case. . . . Now 
 comes a letter from Mr. M. C. Fenwick, missionary in 
 Wonsau, Korea, with a retjuest that public use shall bo 
 made of it to undeceive Christians in America. lie also 
 sends a copy of Tltc Chinese Bccordcr and Missionary 
 Journal, published in Slianghai, and edited by Rev. L. 
 N. Wheeler, D.D. It contains a communication from 
 Mr. Fenwick in reply to the following statement that 
 went the rounds of the religious press in this country: 
 * Korea presents a striking illustration of the irresisti))le 
 advance of the kingdom of Christ. One of the most 
 remarkable works of grace known in modern missions 
 is that among the Koreans. Without having heard or 
 seen a missionary, thousands of people have heard of 
 Christ and turned to the service of (Jod. These con- 
 verts are the fruit of the circulation of copies of the 
 New Testament by the Rev. John Ross, late missionary 
 of the Presbyterian Church of Scotland in iNIanchuria.' 
 "Of this marvelous story Mr. Fenwick says: 'It is a 
 grave doubt in th(^ minds of i\ nitijority of Protestant 
 missionaries in Koi'ca wliether there* are lifty Koreans in 
 the wliole country who have been " born again." Some 
 
158 
 
 RH/tUlY yr.KSUS ROMANCn. 
 
 I 
 
 \- tv V 
 
 ur(< IHTsuudod tluit tlioi'o nro not (wcn u dozen. Con- 
 vcniinjj: tlii^ New Tostunicnt tluit issjiid to l)o llic tijins- 
 lutioM of tlio Kov. John Koss, but which is ivally tho 
 in'oduction of Koreans, under the direction ol' ii j\li'. 
 J\Iclntyr<* and Mr. lioss, no Korean lias yet been found 
 who has any conception of its ineanini;'. Thei'e are 
 many words in this i»ro(hiction foreign to the Korean 
 languages, and that whi<*h is Korean is l»y no means u 
 translation of the Word of (Jod — not even in the "con- 
 ''e{»t." Some tlukUght perhaps it might he used on the 
 hoi'der h<'tween China, and Korea, but it has been ac- 
 corded a fair trial thei'e, and failed to lind a man who 
 couM understand its funny soutuls.' 
 
 "In the letter just received he more completely ex- 
 poses tli(^ d(>ception too often practiced on the Churcli 
 in so-called Christian lands, perhaps in the exercise of 
 the Jesuitical principle that the end jnstilies the means. 
 
 "The missionary literaturt* of the day, taken as a 
 whole, is tlio most deceptive wi'iting I s«^<\ . . . A case 
 in point: A missionary in Korea, representing a small 
 
 coinmitte(> in composecl of business men united 
 
 to send the gosjxd to Korea, mad(» his annual report, 
 truthfully setting forth the actual state of aifaii's on 
 th(^ field as he found them. The ivport was promptly 
 rejected, and one of striking cas(;s of interest, <'()nver- 
 sions, etc., domauded. Ho complied with the rcfjuest 
 under protest, but the rept)rt was declared to ])o the 
 l)roper thing, and given a wide <Mrculation. 
 
 " Two years ago a man named [perliaps it is well 
 
 to omit the name] returned from this Held to America, 
 and has since been spreading his exaggerated stoi'ies 
 throughout the <'hurches in the United States. . . . Let 
 
 ! !i: I \ 
 
/IM/t/.lNC, S T.I II. Ml NTS. 
 
 15!) 
 
 JIS Jl 
 
 A cjiso 
 siiijiU 
 
 iiiiilcd 
 'port, 
 rs oil 
 
 Hiiptly 
 
 iiivcr- 
 
 '(jUCSt 
 
 JO tho 
 
 is wo] I 
 loricji, 
 itorics 
 Let 
 
 mo ^ivo you Jill aooonut of liis convert in j; work in u 
 villiii;'<' wlu'ro 1 nt'torwnnl lived for six inoiillis, as jjjivoii 
 iiic l>y oiK^ whom ho haptizcd (»n tho occasion now 
 mentioned. A mitivo who i-eeeived mission money was 
 
 <hrecto(l hy Mr. to ;;el tcti^ether Jit h'ast forty <»r 
 
 (it'tv, ami ho would Im^ aloni:; .-it sneh a time. Katlier 
 |ier|tlexed at the iiumher demjinded, the iintivo set to 
 work to jjjather his friends, l»nt could muster only 
 nine. 
 
 "The missiomiry arrived, iind .-iftei' exhoi'tin^' at con- 
 sider;d)le length, ask<'d themitives to i-eniove theii" luds. 
 'Wliid for;" siiid one. '(.)h, never mind,' coiixinj;iy 
 pleaded the native friend; 'take otV your lints;' and 
 with the })(>liteness so charactei'istic of tho Eiisterner, 
 
 tliey i'emove(l their hiits, and then tho ]^ov. Mr. , 
 
 |).|)., jidministere(l l»ai)tism to tlies(> nine uk'H, none of 
 wlioiii, with the jtossiMo oxcepti<^)n of one, he had over 
 .seen. 
 
 "Tho letter contains statoments e(|U!dly am;i/,in,!U,' Jind 
 humiliating, but onough has l>een said to put Christians 
 on tlioir guard against heiievingwvry////////// that coinos 
 to them fi'om the foreign field. No donl»t this lialtit of 
 story-tolling arises from th<' error, held hy nearly all, 
 that it is tho mission of the Church to conv(M't tlio 
 woi'M. Hence it seems to l»o iiecessai'y, in order to 
 arouse and sustain enthusiasm ami to procure funds, 
 to tell hig tales of wholesale convei'sions and to repre- 
 sent the heathen as eager to a>,'c(>pt tho gospel. Hut 
 *uo ]i(> is of the ti'utli' (1 John ii. 121), and no lie is harm- 
 l(»ss. rt is sure to iidlict its own penalty in due time; 
 and tho Church cannot continue to act umlor the delu- 
 sion that its business is to oonvort the world, without 
 
IGO 
 
 REALITY yi-RSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 \t\W 
 
 IM 
 
 exporienoing some day a dreadful reaction fi-nm its 
 futile lioi)es." 
 
 We claim for the lonely and sorely tried workers in 
 the Matehele country, for Monsieur Coillard and his co- 
 workers in the Barotso Valhiy, and foi* others we could 
 mention, that, while they have no visible successes to 
 report, but, on the contrary, mourn over the years as 
 they roll by without realizinjjj their desire among the 
 heathen, they are foun<lation workers, toiling deep 
 down in superstition and gross darkness,, and spend- 
 ing their lives almost unknown, amid dangers and dis- 
 couragement, without a soul to cheer by responding to 
 the message tlu^y bring, r(M*eiving no sympathy from 
 their surroundings, and hundreds of miles, perhaps, 
 from the nearest fellow-laborer. 
 
 There were many weary months of jeopardy and 
 labor to the divers as they toihxl fathoms deep Ixuieath 
 the Forth, blasthig rocks and building the massive 
 masonry that was to be the foundation of one of the 
 gi'eatest engineering achievements of the age — the 
 Forth Bridge. Had these toilers in mud and stone and 
 flood, whose uninteresting and, to the upper world, in- 
 visible work, which was accomplished slowly but surely 
 — in many instances at the sacrifi(?e, and in every case 
 at the peril, of their lives — no honor or recognition on 
 the day when the structure was complete<l? 
 
 Tt is in such circumstances that these servants of 
 God grapple with untold obstacles, determined that, as 
 far as it is in their power, the groundwork of the 
 future building, which they may not see, shall l)e well 
 and truly laid. But such are not the men whose ser- 
 vices receive full rocoirnition at the hands of their fel- 
 
PRIMlTiyE Mr:7H0DlST rARTY. 
 
 lOl 
 
 lows; tlH'so workers arc ofton followed by moro surface 
 iiicu, who by tlu'ir reports elicit the practical sympathy 
 of those who "give only to success." 
 
 What wo contend for is that the truest aiul most 
 •j^ennint^ missions of the present day are those which 
 must bo soui'ht out, for rarely are their claims [>ub- 
 lishcil to the world, except among tin? few; while, on 
 \\w other hand, many a man whose mission is super- 
 (icial resorts to sensational and questiouablo advertise- 
 ments of his work. 
 
 Let the truth l)e told, however unpalatable, for no 
 real advanrag«^ is gained, in the long run, by false i-e- 
 ports, aud societies and friends who sustain these mis- 
 sionaries are place<l in a Avrong position, leading event- 
 ually to great disappointment. 
 
 Let the truth l)e told, also, for the sake of those who 
 oft'er themselves for mission work, that there may bo 
 a wholesome sifting of the uumei'ous Itands of young 
 men on both sides of the Atlantic who are eager to 
 give up business, etc., to go "" ^la? "regions beyond" 
 and preach the gos[>el ; while \, solid men would only 
 bo strengthened in their ])Ur[>ose to devote their lives 
 to a cause worthy of their best talents and highest 
 attainments. 
 
 Camped near Sefula is INFr. B , representing the 
 
 English Primitive ^Methodists, with Mrs. B and 
 
 child, having just arrived hen^ for the second time, 
 expecting to get permission from Lewanika to settle in 
 some part of his country, or be allowed to go through 
 to the JNIashukulumbwe for the purpose of organizing 
 u mission center for his society. The king is anything 
 but favorable to the proposition, and far from friendly 
 
l(L' 
 
 Kl.ll.in riKMS A'0.V/./.V(,7:, 
 
 \ \ 
 
 I 1 
 
 I- 
 
 I ;lf 
 
 lowjird tho pjii'ty ; imi- is lie likely fo j;niiit the I'cqucst ; 
 <ni the coiitrni'v, ln' fiii|tliiili<'jilly <l»'('I;irtMl only lo-diiy 
 timt " llicy luid lictlfr yo l>ii«'U, lor tli<'y iirc iiol Wiiiitcd." 
 
 I*(»()r '{ ! I ;iiii sorry I'or liiiii, luil still iiiorc so for 
 
 ills wife ,-iiiil dt'liciitt' littlt' ^irl, wlioiii lie takes jihout 
 witli liiiii ill the Wii.yoii, ti'ckkiiii;' tlirsc iiuiiiy nioiitlis 
 r\|)os('(| to all tlir [)rivat ions incidental to sueli a life 
 in sneli a eonnlry — a most iii,judieious jti'oeeedin 
 siii'ely, jiidnin,!;' fi'oni a Iiuniaii slaiid|ioint. Ai'e eon 
 miltees at home not awai'e of tin' lia/ai'd and iiositi\'e 
 enielly <»f eominilt inu' a whole family to |iioneer woi'k 
 Avliefe si ui'd\' single men lia\'e all they can <|o to hold 
 their own a.uaiiist the hai'dships |>i'esentin,i;' t liemsehcs 
 on e\ery hand.' While for all this — some three years 
 ol" snl'feriii;^' and at the expense of thousands oi" jtonnds, 
 not 1»> speak of the shattered health of niothei' and 
 child — siini>ly nothin,;;' has been accomplished so far, 
 and e\'en less [d'ospecf of doini;' anythiiii;' than when 
 they (irst set out. One cannot hut admire tlieir liero- 
 isni and self-sacrilice ; and as they ai'c^ determine"! to 
 wait at all costs rather than face the criticisms of tlui 
 society at home with a report of I'ailure, let us hope tlie 
 kiny may yet relent and uive them tlie road. I litivo 
 
 ui'ued Mr. J> in the ineantime to send home Ills 
 
 .'^ick Avife and child. 
 
 The saddest t'eatui'O of tlio wliol(> is the fact that wliile 
 
 'Mv. !> is waiting- at Sefula witliout even a hope of 
 
 u'oiui;' farther, a uia]> is publislied in Euulaud tnititled 
 ''^la]) of Africa Showini;' all the Protestant Missions 
 Workiuji: in the 'Dark Contiinnit.' I*i'ei)ared from 
 a list of African Missions in 'Africa Rediviva.'" The 
 localities of stations are indicated by white figures on 
 
 i i 
 
10 n'(iii('.st; 
 •Illy t()-(|{iy 
 »t Wiiiitcd." 
 iioi'c so tor 
 ikcs nliout 
 ly months 
 
 -llrli ;i |i|',> 
 
 irocfcdiiiy, 
 
 Al'f coiii- 
 
 • I iiositivc 
 
 iK'ci' work 
 
 lo to hold 
 
 hciuschcs 
 
 ii't'*' vcjirs 
 
 )i' Jtoiiiids, 
 
 )tli('i- jnid 
 
 'd so fill', 
 
 111 when 
 
 'ir lici'o- 
 
 niii('(l to 
 
 IS of tho 
 
 lOlX' tll(( 
 
 I have 
 OIIH' Ills 
 
 at wliilc 
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 cntith^d 
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 ■rwaBBTm'oea**^ 
 
yiRTUALLY --/ PRISON F.R. 
 
 1G3 
 
 u black ground, mul iioitli of llic Zatiihosi, in tlio center 
 of tli») j\la.sliiikuliiiiil)\vr couiitrv, Wf llml 
 
 u .)|» « 
 
 Oil 
 
 I'L'fci'oueo to tlic list of socii'tit'H wo liiul this to he tlio 
 nuiiilM'r rcpn'sontiiiu tln' I'riinitivo Metliodist mission. 
 
 hut then* is not, and nt'Vcr has 1 
 
 K'on, n inissioii ot any 
 
 kind in that couiitiT ; the '"-*:)" in this instance only 
 points to where the party referretl to alu'Ve ivun( to ^o. 
 
 Uecend)er "Jlst. We returned to l^ialui on the Utli, 
 and 1 have been busy every day visitinj*; and prcscrib- 
 injj; foi' the sick of the villa<;'e, includini;: nine of tho 
 kinj^'s wives, '{'here is a tlrawback to this doctoring? of 
 his peo()le, wishiiiji', as J do, lo <x,vV away and proceed 
 on niy journey; h«' may detain me lon<:;er than is aj;ree- 
 able. However kindly the white traveler may be I'e- 
 celved and treat(>d by a powerful heathen potentate like 
 L«'wanika, he is soon made to realize that his position 
 as n ^n«'st is virtually that of a prisoner, for he cannot 
 leave the country, nor dare a porter lift one of his loads, 
 exce)»t b}' the kinj;'s permission. 
 
 The romance of life amon<;' the Marotsi, or any other 
 savage tri])e, is of short duration to the European, pass- 
 iuju; oft' after the first few days. lie is interested in ob- 
 serving' their manners an<l customs — the native smithy, 
 for instance, where durinj;" the early hours of the morn- 
 ing blacksmiths are at work smelting iron from the 
 crude ore by means of charcoal and clay crucibles; 
 forging spears, arrow-hea<ls, l>attle-axes, knives, and 
 snuft"-si)oons, with the most original and rude appli- 
 ances, the anvil Ijeing a flat stone and the liamnier a 
 conical block of iron without a handle. Under a shed 
 is a group of men busy making "karosses" (blankets), 
 by sewing together, with threads prepared from the 
 
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 1C4 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 sinews of aiitolopes, skins of leopards, jackals, tiger-cats, 
 and other wild animals. 1 may add that the sewing is 
 not done with an ordinary needle, but by means of a 
 plain spike of iron brought to a tine point at one end by 
 rubbing on a stone, and using it as a shoemakiu' does 
 his awl, piercing th*' holes tlu'ougli which the thread is 
 passed, each stitch being made fast by a turn in the 
 loop, as in working a buttonhole. The kaross-niaker 
 carries his needle in a wooden sheath, highly ornamented 
 with carving and plaited brass wire, and suspended from 
 his neck. As some karosses have over a hundred yards 
 of seams, containing twelve to fifteen stitches to the 
 inch, the length of time required to complete a blanket 
 may be imagined. 
 
 In another corner wood-carvers are hewing, from 
 blocks of wood, bowls, milk-jugs, nnish dishes, etc., with 
 various-sized native hatchets, ;i bont knife-l)lade serving 
 as a scoop, chipping away morning after morning, for 
 weeks and months, before a single household utensil is 
 completed ; but had these vessels been turned in a lathe, 
 the symmetry could scarcely be more perfect. 
 
 Here also the basket-maker's art may be seen in per- 
 fection, and excelling anything produced by basket- 
 factories of civilized countri(^s, for scarcely would our 
 workers in basketry undertake to weave an impervious 
 vess(4 from reedy grass, to carry five or six gallons of 
 water. 
 
 In the evening, with much pomp and ceremony, pro- 
 ceded by his band of drums and marimbas, his majesty 
 comes out to the lekh(«thla, where hundreds and some- 
 times thousands of his subjects are gathered, and kneel- 
 ing in their usual semicircles round the spot where the 
 
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 't 
 
 IX THh Ll.KHOTHL-L 
 
 1G.J 
 
 TVlllo- 
 
 por- 
 
 skot- 
 
 l our 
 
 vious 
 
 )iis of 
 
 pre- 
 ijcsty 
 !omo- 
 noel- 
 c the 
 
 royal tiuit is si)r('a<l. A second cliair is jjlaccd by that 
 of tho kinj^'s, and the white j^-iicst is invited to sit with 
 him while court is being held. Th«' business on hand 
 is perhaps a ease of witehei'afl, poisonin.u', oi' eatth»-steal- 
 ini;"; or it may lie to receive sonu^ of the many bands 
 of natives iM'lonuinu' to distant tribes as far noi'lh as 
 Ban.t(weohi and south to Lake Xgami, but who occui)y 
 laud supposed to be within Lewanika's dominions, and 
 by these dele<;-ates send the annual tributt^ he claims. 
 In this way the oi>portunity was afforded m(> of seeiui;- 
 I'epresentativesof several tribes that are but little known 
 to the civilized world. This over, tlu^ kinii' returns to 
 his wattle-and-daul) jtalace in state, and 1 to my lint. 
 Would that it wei-e to si)en(l a (piiet ui.i;ht ! \\\\\ not 
 while ancestral worship is the relii;ion, if i'eli,i;ion it may 
 be called, of the Mai'otsi nation, can bt; expected other 
 than "a sound of revelry by ni,i;lit," th(Mr tlieory being 
 that, althongh their ancestors have departed this life, 
 their spirits still haunt the scen(>s of their eai'thly career, 
 potent to wreak vengeance on those Avho may iiave in- 
 curn.'d their displeasui'e. Although Lewanika regularly 
 visits the tombs of iiis predecessors to jiray to them, 
 and is liberal in his gifts of oxen as peace-offei'ings, his 
 conscience reminds him that some of them did not, to 
 say the least, receive fair play at his hands on the occa- 
 sion of their exit from the l»ody, and he dreads their 
 nocturnal visits ; hence the necessity for the drums and 
 noise to keep them at bay. 
 
 For s(>veral days a ])artv of ]\rambun(las — a hill tribe 
 and the recognized sorcerers of the valley — have l)een 
 busy tiid<liug their l)ells, rattling their gourds, throwing 
 down the divining-tables, and shaking the witch-baskets 
 
16G 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 li. 
 
 ; 
 
 (\vhi(.*li coutjiin a collection of trifles such as birds' claws 
 and beaks, splinters of human bones, leopards' claws, 
 bits of iron and strange shells, and from the position of 
 which they pretend to read the will of the gods), in order 
 to discover whether or no the Marotsi are to go to wnr 
 against the Matebele. Tu this c{is(3 it was divined tluit 
 the gods were sulky, angry Avith the tribe, and refused 
 to answer. This was a convenient decision, as they 
 were well aware that the Marotsi soldiers were too Aveak 
 to take the Held against the armies of Lobengula, king 
 of the Matebele; and in the event of defeat in batth^ 
 authorized by the witch-doctors, the latter, of cours(\ 
 would have to bear the brunt. 
 
 But their conclusions ar<3 rarely so indefinite; gener- 
 ally some ])oor wretch has to bo sacrificed to their whims 
 and conjectures. Nor <lo they alwiiys spare the head- 
 men in giving judgment; even the king is occasionally 
 indicted. An instance of this has in fac^ taken place 
 since my visit to the Barotse, when Lewanika, after a 
 great astrological inquiry, was pronounced guilty of 
 having been the cause of a violent outltreak of small- 
 pox at the close of last year. Monsieur Coillard relates 
 the circumstance in alettei" received r(M'ently, as follows : 
 
 "'Do you know,' said he (Lewanika), 'that for three 
 days the ]\rand)undas, masters of the black art, have 
 consulted the knuckle-l)ones. This inorning the first 
 chiefs, Gand)ella at the head, have come to communi- 
 cate the oracle to me. Ah well ! it is I myself that the 
 bones have seized on and ])ointed out. They accuse mo 
 of having brought on the nation the plague of small- 
 pox, and of stopping the rain from falling. If I am 
 cruel, be not astonished.' . . . 
 
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 77V/: AVAc; INDICTED. 
 
 167 
 
 " Aeconipaniod by Paulus and Jacob, I returned next 
 day to the kiuj::, and found him in the lekhotlda, and 
 sat down near him. He named new eliiefs in phiee of 
 those the small-pox had mown down — and they are 
 many! On onlinaiy occasions the ceremony does not 
 lack interest, but Lewanika is anxious and worried. 
 He is absent-minded and throws furtive side-ghmces. 
 As soon as he was able, he uot up and asked me *o 
 follow him. But in the <ireat s(piare shed of the lek- 
 hothhi tliere was an unaccustomed iiubl)ub. 'They are 
 still here!' the king said to me in i>artiug-. I wished 
 to see what went on then*, so I made a way in tho 
 dense? crowd which surrounded the hut. Inside, six or 
 seven old Mandmndas sciuattini;' on mats were shaking 
 convulsively baskets tilled with all kinds of imaginable 
 things. These sages were absorbed in the profound 
 stud}' of each combination, and muttered cabalistic 
 formuUe, while all around them, ranged in a circle, 
 their confreres nuide a fearful ca('0[>hany with rattles 
 made of gourds and baobab fruits, wooden liarmonicas, 
 their little 1)ells and tom-toms. The pubhc, packed 
 like sardines, stand Avith stretched necks, wide-open 
 mouths, and fixed eyes. And all this by tlie orders of 
 the head chiefs in a full lekliothla, under the very eyes 
 of the king, whom they have charged thus publicly Avith 
 the ndsfortuues of the nation ! I was looking on this 
 scene and absorbed in dark reflections, when a new 
 message came to call me. 
 
 "Lewanika, a prey to great agitation, gave some 
 orders to one of his confidants. Soon after, a loud 
 tumult of voices arose in that public place. The king's 
 man had gathered the crowd, given the message, and 
 
7 
 
 1G8 
 
 RLALITY ytliSUS ROM /INCH. 
 
 % '; 
 
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 ^■ii 
 
 wound up by crying, ' Seize them ! ' Hundreds of 
 voices responded, each one stronger tlian the other, 
 shouting, * Seize them ! seize them ! ' They ull rushed 
 on the unfortunate Mumbundas and fouglit for tlie 
 pleasure of strangling them, sonui pulling their arms, 
 others dragging them by the legs, while still others 
 held on to their neeks. It was a frightful eonfusion, 
 when a seeond order eame commanding the lilxn-ation 
 of the culprits, and the king, holding up his hand, said, 
 *lt is enough, they shall be pardoned; but let them 
 know not to take such libertit^s with royalty again ! ' 
 The etfervescence of the spirits calmed down, and the 
 Mambundas, profiting by a moment of confusion, had 
 already taken advantage of the oi)portunity to steal 
 away. At anotlnn* time they would have been unmer- 
 cifully put to death. Lewanika has used his authority 
 — it is good ; but I ask myself, with disquietude, if he 
 has truly realized the i)eril that menaced him, and if he 
 has not made a mistake over it." 
 
 The Barotse Valk^y is not likely ever to be a place 
 wher(^ white men can live. It is a vast expanse of de- 
 caying vegetation reeking with malaria; nor could it 
 b(> otherwis(», stagnant water being on every side, to 
 di'ink of wdiich would be certain fever. The whole 
 valley is annually covered wdth W'ater to the depth of 
 five to (iiglit feet l)y the rise of the Zandjesi, in the 
 same way as Low^er Egypt is flooded l»y the Nile; 
 when only the villages can be seen, built on mounds 
 (the work of a former chief, Santuru), the only means 
 of transit for several months of the year being canoes. 
 The grass rots when under water, and when the floods 
 cease new grass springs up everywhere immediately, 
 
A BLOODTHIRSTY QLIHEN. 
 
 169 
 
 proventiujif tho rottiii*!; vogotable iiuittor from ilrying — 
 resulting iu tlio most oft'eii.sive exliulations (luriii«;' tlni 
 wot season, the lioat and moisture keeping one in a 
 l)erpetual vapor-batli. To-day my liands and arms ar(3 
 puckered from perspiration, as if 1 had spent liours at 
 the wash-tub. 
 
 Yesterday Monsieur CoilUird came over to conthict 
 service in the lekhothla. About three liundred men 
 were pres«mt ; women do not attend. 11(^ kindly presses 
 me to return to Sefula with him to-day, and I ghidly 
 accept his invitation, for I am scarcely a djiy free from 
 fever here, and begin to feel very much broken down. 
 
 Sefula, December oOtli. Lewanika arrived hen^ to- 
 day with a groat retinue of p<'Ople, who are buihiing a 
 camp near by, to make preparations for th(! marriage 
 of his eldest son, which is to take place? on New Year's 
 Day. The queen has also arrived, attended by about 
 one hundred and lifty women, with a similar flourish 
 of trumpets. She is the sister of Lewanika, and with 
 him rules the kingdom, having her headquarti'rs at 
 Nalolo, about a day's journey down the river; but she 
 is a nmdi more determined <*haracter than her vacillat- 
 ing and pusillanimous brother. Her reign is stained 
 with many a cruel act of mui'der and bloodshed, av(Mig- 
 ing herself particularly on those who are in any way 
 the objects of her jealousy. But a short time ago, an 
 aged headman in lu>r village had won for himself, l)y 
 his kindness and gentle demeanor, far more of tlui re- 
 spect and esteem of the peojtle than was agreeabh* to 
 his sovereign, whose great ambition is that none receive 
 honor but herself. Some one; had spoken in her pres- 
 ence of the old man in terms of i>raise, and forthwith 
 
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 170 
 
 REALITY i'ERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 her heart was filled with hate toward him. He was 
 doomed ! Next morning she invited him to eome to 
 her hut to drink beer, at the same time appointing two 
 young men, armed with Ki)ears, to bo ready at her sig- 
 nal to kill him. The sign was given, but the venerable 
 face and gray hair so touched even their hearts that 
 they hesitated, when she, uttering a curse on their 
 cowardice, seized a rusty I'ortuguese saber and thrust 
 him through. Sunmioning her crier, she ordered hini 
 to announce; to the town that " the queen liad a thorn 
 removed from her foot this morning." 
 
 On New Year's Eve the immense crowd of 2")eople 
 was treated by Monsieur Coillard to an exhibition of 
 fireworks, which seemed to amaze them greatly. ]Mon- 
 sieur Coillard puts himself to no end of trouble to create 
 an interest in the station and draw the people together. 
 To a magic-lantern exhibition or such-like they will 
 come in flocks ; but let the church-bell ring and expect 
 to see the same anxiety to fill the building? Alas, no! 
 After waiting until long after the appointed hour for 
 service, wo enter, to find but a very, very few, except 
 wdien there is some other attraction than preaching. 
 
 January 1, 1892. Yes, another year is gone, and one 
 that to me has been fraught with the strangest and 
 most varied experiences that have fallen to my lot dur- 
 ing my somewhat checkt^red life. This time last year I 
 was surrounded by all tliat makes life sweet, in a land 
 where there is light, joy, peace, and love; here, dark- 
 ness, wretchedness, strife, and hate abound. While 
 writing, I hear the ghoulish yells and wild revel of the 
 natives as they celebrat(3 the opening year. Knowing 
 no joy but in that which panders to their basest pas- 
 
 I 
 
A NATIVE llT:DDl\(J. 
 
 171 
 
 no! 
 
 one 
 
 and 
 
 idur- 
 
 iilV I 
 
 land 
 lark- 
 thile 
 
 the 
 [ing 
 
 )as- 
 
 sions, love is to tliem a myth, and ])oa('o they have novel" 
 known, I'or war and bluod.shed is their special delijjjlit. 
 
 With all niy heart 1 thank (rod i'or His mercies to 
 me duriiifj: the year that is j^'one, and for His preserving 
 care both by sea and land; and did I know that my 
 loved ones — wil'e and children — wei'e at tiiis moment 
 well and hitj)i>y, 1 eonld even now be hopet'nl and Joy- 
 ful ; but this is hithU'U from me, and 1 fear will be for 
 many months yet to come. 
 
 This luih been a ^reat day in the Barots(; Valley, in- 
 asmuch iis at Sefulii the first marriaj2;e, Christian or 
 heathen, hiis bcM'u performed l)y ^Monsieur Coillard, in 
 the union of Letiti, son of Ticwanikn, and J\Iak;ibi, 
 dau,uhter of Katusi, a minor chief. The ;i;irl has been 
 foi- sonu^ time in the school at Sefula, and much ciire 
 Ims l>een bestowed and many months spent in the en- 
 <le;ivor to Avciin liei- from her heathenism ; but without 
 success. Still, Letia has made a profession of (Chris- 
 tianity, and Avishecl to be married by the missiouary. 
 Tlie bridegroom and li'i'oomsmen "wen^ neatly dressed 
 in suits of twecvl; the bride decked out in a dress of 
 yellow luster trimmed with fui'niture chintz, the mate- 
 rial having- been brought from ]\[angwato by Letia and 
 mad'» up with his own han<ls. Miss Keiner cutting it 
 out tnid adding- the finishing touches. 
 
 By 11 A.M. thousands had assembled at the little 
 church, which was tastefull}' decorated for the occa- 
 sion with fronds of the fan palm and leaves of the 
 wild plantain. Flowers are scarce in these parts. The 
 most important among the people obtained admission 
 until the building- was crammed, while the mass had 
 to be contented with standing room at a distance, or 
 
17J 
 
 Kl.ll.ll) il.KSlS KOMASC.i:. 
 
 !. I 
 
 i ■ 
 
 1 r 
 
 ii ptM'p ill Jit flic windows, ^riic ci'i't'iiioiiy procpoded 
 willioiil .-III iiit»'rni|»1i(>ii until tlir hridcui-ooiii lu-ouiiscd 
 to clcavt' unto this wife oiilv so loiiu' as tlu'V "l)otIi 
 should live," when an aiidiMr titter ol' amused skt'|>ti- 
 cisni passed I'ouiid aiiioiit;' the chiel's, liei^inniiii;' with 
 liis t'athei", wlio rejoices in tlie jtossessioii of ov<'r a, 
 scoi'e. And he would l)e a small eiriej' indeed who 
 (•oidd not hoast of at least hall' a, do/en women in his 
 hai'eni. (Sad to say, the se(pi<'l has |iroveii that their 
 unlieliel' in Letia's vows had iiioi'e roundation than our 
 liopes i'oi- his steadi'asliiess, for within a few months he 
 look to himself a second wife, and has itpenly returned 
 to the pay'anisiii of his trihe.) 
 
 ]\Ionsieui' ( 'oillai'd pi'oposed to have a lunch in the 
 ojien air foi' the yoiiii:;' peoph', ill l'!ui'o|M'an fashion, 
 as a soi't of oliject-lesson ; l)ut it ended in signal fail- 
 lU'e. l-'irst, it was difliciilt to induce the hi'ide to sit 
 on a<'liaii', she ne\er haviiiL;' sat at a taMe in hei' life, 
 fas less eaten with the ci\'ili/i'd aid of a knife and foi'k. 
 Then the (|neeii and the chief wife of the kiiii;' Were 
 ap|tointe(l |tlaces op|»osite to him; to this iicwanik'a 
 took the sti'onu'est ami most emphatic ol»jection, de- 
 clai'in.i;' that lie had n"\-er eaten with women, and he 
 i/cnr /roii/d. '!Mie mattei", howevei', was compi'omi^ed, 
 after a u'reat deal of coaxing', by placin.i;' his majesty's 
 cliaii' hack IVom the talde a little, makini;' it a]>peai' as 
 if he wei'e not of their ])arty, ^riien his sist(M"'s hnshand 
 and his own seei'etary wei'e invitei] tochaii's; l)iit liert^ 
 a,u'ain the ,u'i'eat man's dinnity wasdauj;'ei'ously wounded, 
 lie A'owed that no Marotsi should eN'ei" s/l in Ids pres- 
 ence except on the l)ai"e ,<;l'ound, so tiiei'e was no alt<'l'- 
 iKitive but to ask them to retire from the festive lioard 
 
 I {•■ 
 
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 lil 
 
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 "liotll 
 
 sk('|tti- 
 
 ii;' with 
 
 (•vrr ;i 
 
 I'd \vli(» 
 
 I ill his 
 
 ill ihcir 
 
 hail our 
 
 nilhs ho 
 
 ctunu'd 
 
 ill tlio 
 I'.-ishioii, 
 I r.-iil- 
 to sit 
 '1- life, 
 1 fork, 
 i;- WtTCi 
 waiiikji 
 )ii, <h'- 
 11(1 he 
 )iiii<(Ml, 
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 tear as 
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 iiiKh'd. 
 
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MACICUNTURN HXHIlilllON. 
 
 \T.\ 
 
 jiinl nmko tli.Mnsclvt's <'OMit'()rtiil.lo on tlio sjitkI. Much 
 luon! ot'ulikc imtiuv took [.lace, jjjriovitijx tli(< inission- 
 iiry to his vn-y soul, uii<l ciiiisiii^' him to n-u'ivt Iiunmii^' 
 shown them this kiixhicss; hut it proved to uio h(»\v 
 totally iuipossihlc it must ww 1m' to iutlut'iico for jrood, 
 civili/c, or cl.'vatc a im'oj.I*" w Ik. aiv tyrannized over hy 
 such an arrogant, iynoi-ant autocrat as Lcwanika. In 
 th<*; afternoon the natives wei'e treated t». a liheral least, 
 consistin.i,^ of four fat oxen, meali«'S, and manioc, at 
 I^Ionsieur C'oillard's expens*'. They I'ornuMl a i.roees- 
 sion previous to the l'e;ist, l>oarinj,^ the cooked food in 
 hask.'ts, howls, and .gourds; placing- all in rows heforo 
 the kin«-', salutin^^ him in the usual way, clappin^' their 
 hands, .n'cttin-- down and touchin,i;- tlu' «;round Avith 
 their foreheads, takin,i;' up handfuls of san<l and rnh- 
 l)inj? it on their chests and arms in self-ahasemt'nt, then 
 iini'ing m tho cry of " Yo she! Tau Tuna!" ("pvat 
 
 lion "). 
 
 In tho evoiiin.i? a masio-lantern oxhihition was «?ivon 
 in front of tho mission house. The audience did not 
 sooni to undorstaml photo-raplis of scenery or huild- 
 in«;-s, howovor hoautifnl ; hut when the picture of a 
 zehra, lion, (Repliant, or huffalo was tlu'own upon tho 
 screen, they screamed with delight, imitating- the ci'ies 
 of the animals represente.L At a late hour they dis- 
 persed, evidently greatly pleased. 
 
 On Saturday measles hroke out in the king's camp. I 
 was most of the day walking around with him atten<ling 
 to his favorites. Great crowds gathered foi- the Sun- 
 day services, hoth uiorning and <'vening, hecause the 
 king and queen were there. A lot of Lewanika's wives 
 maix'hed in and took their places— on the opposite side 
 
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 iL 
 
 
 174 
 
 REALITY yi:RSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 of the buikliiifx from him, of coiii'se — draped in a profu- 
 iAou of gay-colored cloth, toga fashion, with from six 
 to twelve hirge ivory rings on each arm, and the indis- 
 pensable snuff-box hanging by their sides, with whi(,'h 
 they amused themselves during the service. 
 
 January 4th. A blissful stillness pervades the dis- 
 trict to-day. Royalty has taken its departure — the 
 queen and her suite to Nalolo in canoes, the king on 
 horseback to Lialui, followed by his satellites, in each 
 case preceded by their respective bands of music (sav(> 
 the mark !). I am not very sorry to see the last of tliem, 
 for now we shall get a little quiet rest at night. If the 
 " uneasy head that wears a crown " in Africa, purchased 
 as it is in almost every case by deeds of violence and 
 bloodshed, requires this perpetual tum-tumming from 
 dusk to dawn, with impromptu appeals to his good 
 genius that he may sleep, it is at the sacrifice of rest to 
 every civilized being within a mile; for a din more hid- 
 eous can scarcely be conceived. But such is savage life 
 in the far interior, even among kings. 
 
 A band of Mashukulmnbwes arrived at Sefula this 
 morning cu route homeward. They have Ijeen on an 
 embassy to the court of Lewanika, carrying tril)ute, 
 and dechu'ing tlieir desire to live at i:)eace with him, 
 having lost heavily by a raiding party of Marotsi who 
 entered their country last year and captuivd a great 
 number of slaves and cattle. These are representatives 
 of a wild but little-known tribe— little known beyond 
 the fact that every expedition led by whites who have 
 attempted to visit them came to grief, including Dr. 
 Holub and Mr. Selous, who in eacli case were obliged 
 to flee for their lives, helpless to resist the midnight 
 
 h 
 
 ',1 
 
THE MASHi'KLLUMBlVE. 
 
 175 
 
 ii tliis 
 Dii an 
 mto, 
 liini, 
 Avho 
 
 g'l'CJlt 
 
 itives 
 ^yoiid 
 luivo 
 Dr. 
 >ligo(l 
 night 
 
 attack of hnndrods of naked demons in Imnian foi-ni, 
 lun-ling their spears tlirougli the tents and huts of the 
 unsuspecting travelers. 
 
 1 gave each of these interesting embassadors a yard 
 of bright-colored cloth — the lirst certainly tln^y evi'r 
 owned, eacii lumging it from his belt behind like a tail, 
 prancing about an<l looking over his shouldei's to see it 
 fluttering in the wind. Then they all joined in a war- 
 dance. Stopi»ing every now and again and cronching 
 together on the ground, one of their number, creeping 
 stealthily foi'ward, epear in hand, for a short distan(M», 
 would then make a rush, at a great speed, for lil'ty yards, 
 rapidly thrusting with his weapon, fencing and fending 
 hiniself as he retires from the imaginary enemy. Wo 
 got them calnu'd down a bit with some food, and grouped 
 them for a i)hotograph, in wdiich it is noticeable that the 
 character of the features is entirely distinct from tlio 
 usual type of negro. The dressing of tlu^ hair, too, is 
 remarkable, particularly in the cast; of the two chiefs in 
 charge, who have it worked up to a point aljout four 
 feet long. It is necessary to exercise much patience 
 and tact while endeavoring to get i)hotogr;iphs of na- 
 tives. They are so suspicious, it is hard to persuade 
 them that posing in front of the maeliim^ will not in 
 some way bewitch them. But T found the most suc- 
 cessful argument was to politely request permission to 
 " take their measure." 
 
 One European, wlio has traveled extensively in Africa, 
 writes: "Photography . . . presents in itself almost 
 insuperable diffiiuilties. In the first place, it is no easy 
 matter to employ photogr;ii)hy on a journey of explora- 
 tion. Fancy, for instanc(>, the conveyance of an appa- 
 

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 H 
 
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 ri] 
 
 I 
 
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 17ti 
 
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 ^ J<'Ji>st a (lozca 
 
 - ^''ii( th.-it (liiifi- 
 
 '■''I'liy could bo 
 
 '' "'' tlic intcrioi- 
 
 'f "1> iiii.l shiud 
 
 •**^<> i';n-, jiiy cx- 
 
 ti-aijs])()|-tii,o. ;l 
 
 wliiitcvoi', and 
 
 '"«■ ill Kuro|)(>, 
 
 JjISt llliljo. (||.,| 
 
 t'l'icaii carrier; 
 
 '^'illness c.niio 
 >^v ^^'lass, coi). 
 '^ 'I native lo 
 ' 'listaiicc of 
 'ilc ill stoi'(> 
 •\\' ill \\i)ic]i 
 P <»f it, and 
 It" ;dtIiou,i;h 
 •'^, iiicnrrini!;- 
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 ■^ tlie Gan- 
 
 t i« witJiin 
 
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CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FROM SEFULA TO SESHEKE. 
 
 The Sefula Canal. — Haste peculiar to white moti. — To he thrown to the 
 crocodiles. — Preparing; for the river journey. — Parting injunctions. — A 
 cloud of voracious mosquitoes. — Waist-deep in the swamp. — Alloat on 
 the Zamhesi. — Ancestral worslup. — An interview with Makwiii. — The 
 oniande shell. — The {^reat lish-eagle. — Camped at Henanga. — More \>or- 
 tentous game. — Memories of the Georgian Bay. — ("harming surround- 
 ings. — A pleasure trip. — In danger of an upset. — Dragging canoes over- 
 land. — Lion stories. — The Falls of Gonya. — Beautiful cascades. — Veldt 
 schoons. — In the rapids. — The aronuitic niopani. — A fruitless chase. — 
 A gorgeous sunset. — Thq graceful zebra. 
 
 M 
 
 Y most pleasant sojourn at Sofula comos to a 
 close. It has been a deliglitful rest, and I would 
 gladly prolong it were I not still far from my destina- 
 tion, and must now see to getting boatmen for the 
 river journey. The king having sent a canoe for me, 
 I started early in the morning for Lialui. Instead 
 of having to walk some ten miles to the river, as was 
 necessary a short time ago, it is now but a step to the 
 canal, some six miles in length, and connecting a s(>ri<'s 
 of small lakes, thus opening a good water-way to tlu^ 
 Zambesi. It was cut at the exi^euse of a friend in Scot- 
 land, and is a great boon to the mission — a saving of 
 trouble and time that all who visit Sefula cannot fail 
 to appreciate. This route is a long day's journey, 
 owing to the strong current which the paddlers have 
 
 177 
 
. .1 ,_: 
 
 fr 
 
 l! 
 
 
 178 
 
 REALITY yER.US ROM.-INCH. 
 
 to contond witli, but l>y no iix'ans a tirosoiiio one, as 
 the; travdor can, by tho actn'o use of hi'- ^•iiii, find 
 l)k'nty of sport and lay in a good stock of ducks and 
 g-oeso, as tlioy rise in great flocks at every Ijcnd of the 
 river. I bagged seventeen binls to-day, the combined 
 ■weight of five geese being fifty-seven and a Indf pounds. 
 
 The digging of this canal had another good effect, in 
 this way: Lialui is situated about fiv(^ miles from the 
 I'iver; and no sooner was the work at Sefula accom- 
 l)lishe(l than LoAvanika was roused to see the l)enefit of 
 it, and at once set thousands of his slaves to work to 
 cut a similar water-way — fifteen feet wide and six deep 
 — not only to the capital, but extending northward a 
 distance of over twenty miles, navigal)le for large ca- 
 noes, and tapping one of the most thickly populated 
 districts of the Zambesi Valley. 
 
 On the 7th I had a long interview Avith the king 
 about men and boats, llo seems quite willing to do 
 his best, if he could only be impressed with the fact 
 that I am in a hurry. This to him, as to most of his 
 race, is only one of the foolish peculiarities of Avhite 
 men, and he does not hesitate to say so, and seems to 
 think that the responsibility of teaching me that what 
 is not accomplished this month may be the next, rests 
 Avith him. I pres(mted him Avith a AVinchester rifle, 
 belt, suit of tweed, and one of Jaeger Avear, requesting, 
 at the same time, that if he Avished our friendship to be 
 maintained ho would luiA^e the men gathered at once. 
 He promised, and promptly dispatched messengers, to 
 the outlying villages to collect them; so noAV I must 
 simply " wait and murmur not." 
 
 While visiting sick natives around the toAvn, niA^ at- 
 
 11 JH. 
 
THROiyS TO THE CKOCODILES. 
 
 179 
 
 )nio one, as 
 '• ^uii, find 
 
 (lucks iiiid 
 hciid of the 
 (' coiuhiiicd 
 lalt" pounds, 
 od ettVct, in 
 'S from tlic 
 'ula accoui- 
 le beiiofit of 
 
 to woi'k to 
 nd six deep 
 ortlnvai'd a 
 )!' lai'<i:(> oa- 
 
 populatod 
 
 1 tlio king 
 liug- to do 
 h the fact 
 uost of liis 
 s of white 
 d seems to 
 
 that "what 
 next, rests 
 ester rifle, 
 •equestin<2,', 
 Isliip to be 
 
 1 at once. 
 SGiigers . to 
 )W I must 
 
 vn, my at- 
 
 tention was called to a young woman whom a headman 
 had recently added to his luirem. The new wife had 
 already become an <)l)Ject of jealousy to liis oldest 
 spouse, who thought it best to hnvit her put out of the 
 way; so she ordered a slave to mak<' some l»read, an<l, 
 putting the juice of a j^oisonous [>lant into the dough, 
 gave the victim a liberal share for lireakfast. Thv dosc! 
 was evidently too large, as the stonuu'h rejected most 
 of it; sutTHcient remained, however, to bring the poor 
 creature near to death. I found her in a comatose con- 
 dition, administered such antidotes as I thought ])est, 
 and left. I obsiu'ved, as I i)assed out, the would-be 
 murderess and her slave with both hands and feet tied 
 up so tightly that the limbs were fearfully swollen. At 
 my request the thongs were slackened; but I under- 
 stand they are to be executed by throwing tlu^m into 
 the river, where the crocodiles will make short work of 
 them. 
 
 A strange superstition which prevails among the 
 Marotsi Avas brought to my notice to-day l)y Amba, 
 the king's chief steward, who has been very kind to me 
 in many ways. He came to say good-by, as he was 
 about to leave the capital for a time, giving as his 
 reason, that, having heard of the death in a distant 
 village of one of his children, according to custom he 
 could not <'ome into the king's preseuce until the next 
 uew moon. But it would fill a volume to detail the 
 numei'ous superstitions, beliefs, and fancies which ob- 
 tain among these people. 
 
 January 14th. I am glad to hear we are likely to 
 get off to-morrow. I have been busy all day making 
 final arrangements— booking canoe-men and unpack- 
 
180 
 
 REALITY yHiSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 ■J( 
 
 I I 
 
 iug bales of cloth, etc., to adjust them to the new mode 
 of carrying, as some of the goods go by land and i\\(\ 
 balance in the canoes. We have sixty loads altogether. 
 The men of Barotse do not like porter work, but slaves 
 have no choiifc. The natives of Bihe carry their loads 
 on the head or shoulder; but these nmst have it divided 
 into two bundles and suspended from the extreme ends 
 of a stick, six feet long and laid across the shoulder, 
 Chinese fashion. But it would be endless trouble for 
 me to divide up bales of calico in this way, and in the 
 case of the trunks impossible; so they will have to 
 settle the mode of conveyance among themselves. I 
 find no trouble in bringing matters to a focus among 
 these people; the amount of pay for each man has 
 already been fixed, and there is no haggling or backing 
 out at the last. They are under orders, and book with- 
 out a word. 
 
 By ten o'clock next morning all my stuff was lifted 
 and taken down to the canal, where the canoes were 
 drawn up in readiness. Lewanika and a number of his 
 headmen walked with us to say good-by and see us off; 
 also to give final instructions to the men concerning 
 their behavior on the rivei', winding up with "Kemem- 
 ber, if you give any trouble, or cause naka's [doctor's] 
 heart to be sore on the way, you will have to settle 
 with me when you return ; so beware ! " 
 
 It took some time to choose canoes strong enough to 
 shoot the rapids we have to encounter, and to so ar- 
 raiig(^ the men that there slioidd be at least one experi- 
 enced paddler at the prow of each. But by noon pre- 
 liminaries were completed — seven canoes, each liianned 
 by five paddlers. After much hand-shaking and nmtual 
 
le new niotlo 
 ami uij(l tho 
 3 iiltogotlior. 
 £, but slaves 
 ' their loads 
 VQ it divided 
 ftre]iie ends 
 le shoulder, 
 trouble for 
 and in the 
 ill have to 
 ni selves. I 
 ►eus anionic: 
 1 man has 
 or backing 
 book with- 
 
 ' was lifted 
 moes were 
 nber of his 
 see us oft' ; 
 concerning 
 "Reni(!in- 
 [doctor's] 
 3 to settle 
 
 
 *« 
 
 1 vs;. 
 1 'jf 
 
 ^fi 
 
 enough to 
 to so ar- 
 ne exjjeri- 
 uoon pre- 
 h manned 
 id mutual 
 
H 
 
 !' !'tl 
 
 f, 1^^ 
 
 ^7 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 
 y 
 
 LML 
 
 . i^isssiia^Sfe ^ 
 
 '/I 
 < 
 
 ■J, 
 
 UJ 
 
 2 
 
yORMJOUS MOSQIJITOES. 
 
 181 
 
 f 
 
 o 
 
 '/I 
 
 inli r-Ii.Miiio of j;()()<l \visli<>s, tln' row(M*s soizod tlifii- 
 [)iitl(ll<'s, slioiit«'<l three tiiuos, and away we sjicd down 
 tilt' sti'eaiii toward the river, luy caiioo taking" tlie lead, 
 followed by Jack, a IJarotse ])oy, whom I eii^a,i;ed ut 
 liialui as iiitei'preter. llav'mj;: lieeii some years at tho 
 ("ape, lie could Speak a little Kn;;lish. Then eaiiie tlu^ 
 two Jainaiea men, and also the linnt(!r already referred 
 to as of "douhtful nationality," who, havini;; insulted 
 Lotia, the kinj;'s son, was under orders to leave tho 
 country at onee, Avhile the natives wen^ forhid<l«'n to 
 render liiin any assistane«( whatever. Seein*;' a fellow- 
 creature in such a strait, T was induced to ask permis- 
 sion of Ijcwanika to j.?ive him a lift down the livei- in 
 one f)f my canoes, bnt had afterward cause to veo-j-ot 
 having' done so. 
 
 It was almost dark by tho time we ri^ached tho mouth 
 of tho Sefula Canal, or rather mai'sliy lakes which con- 
 nect it with tho river. This was unfortunate, as in tho 
 darkness my headman, who acts as pilot, lost liis Avay 
 sev<!ral times among" tlio long reeds, running aground, 
 having to back out and search again; until at last wo 
 found a narrow oi)ening which we followe<l, making 
 oui way slowly through a j>ei'foct cloud of the lai'gest 
 and most voracious mosquitoes I ever encountered. 
 Hut woi'se trouble was ahead of us, for tho water in 
 tho canal was lov;, and our canoes, being heavily laden, 
 stuck fast in the sand, while still between two and 
 three miles from tho mission station, when^ w<' in- 
 tended to camp over Sunday and pick up tho suj)plies 
 loft there. Tho night was now pitch-diirk, the long- 
 legged bloodsuckers attacked us unmercifully, and the 
 men were tii'od. What was to bo douof Surrounded 
 
182 
 
 Rl-.ll.liy riNSlS KOMANCF.. 
 
 K i . - I , 
 
 
 ' i 
 
 on ovory sido by t'oiil-sjucllin^ Hwainps, we knew not 
 
 liow (l«'('p, with tall 1 (ly ^niss strt'tdiiii^ I'jir jihovo 
 
 our lu'jids, the pfospcct of rcjiiiiiniii;;; tlirrc nil ni^-lit 
 Wiis doleful in tlu) rxtrciiic ^losl of the crews had 
 already iiiad<' ofV to seek a sheltei' in the iieai'esi vil- 
 lau'e; an<l ieaviii;;' only four men to j;'uard the stulV, I 
 decided to tiT wndlujj;' throug'li the marsh, takin^^.laek 
 with 'lie. I slipped out of th(^ canoe into the water, 
 pluii.iiin,i;' alonj;' for several liUMdrecl yards waist-deep, 
 nntil we felt the* u;ronn<l firm undi'r our feet. \\\ ten 
 o'clock we reached tlu^ mission house. Monsieur (.'oil- 
 lard had food sent, to the men in the boats, and after 
 a refreshing' cup of colt'eo 1 got ott' my w«'t clothes and 
 retired to a cond'ortaljle cot, grateful to escape the hor- 
 rors of a night in the disnuil swamp. 
 
 .lanuary Uith. I>y daylight all hands wont to ■work 
 and got tho canoes over the sandbank and up to the 
 camping-ground, the men taking possession of the huts 
 built by the king's people (hiring his visit for Letia's 
 wedding. 1 occuitied mvself all dav foi'ming bales of 
 tho blankets purchased from Monsienr Coillard for the 
 puri)oso of paying carriers. In this i)art of Africa, and 
 for the next eight Inunb'ed miles, a porter does not 
 think h(> is i)aid, however nuich calico ho rocoivos, 
 unless there is a blanket with it. 
 
 ] shall never forget tho time spent on this station 
 with llx' veteran missionary, Francis C'oillard. If I 
 have seen ono mission in Africa that deserves the full 
 sympathy and liearty sup})ort of Christians at home 
 more than another, it is this. 
 
 By !> A.:\r. on the 18tli the canoes Avere loaded and 
 every man in his pkice, ready for a start. With a final 
 
MFLO.'IT OS' THF. /.MMHF.SI. 
 
 i.^n 
 
 kiH'W not 
 
 I'lir nliovo 
 
 Jill iii<;lit 
 
 i'l'cws liiid 
 
 f'iii'csl vil- 
 
 llO si 11(1", I 
 
 kiiij^ .Ijiciv 
 
 I lie wntcr, 
 ■Jiist-(1('(')>, 
 . liy f<'ii 
 ^icur C'oil- 
 jiikI after 
 otlics and 
 I' the lior- 
 
 to woi-k 
 lll> to llic 
 ' the Jiuls 
 )!• Lctia's 
 
 l)al«'s of 
 
 II U)\' tlio 
 rica, and 
 Iocs not 
 I'oceiv'os, 
 
 station 
 I. If T 
 
 the full 
 it liomo 
 
 led and 
 1 Ji final 
 
 farewell to the kind fi'iends, who accompanied ns to 
 the water-side, and a hisl hnyerin;;- look at SefiUa, we 
 arc olf tnii sprrd <lown 4lie eanal. I>y 1 1 a.m. we reached 
 tin' liver. The motion of the nnx'jjx and nnshapely tlu^- 
 oiils is anythin,!'' hnt pleasant, and an upset sooner or 
 lal<r si'cms inevitahle, i»articularly as all the men stand 
 to paddi"', the steersman at the how and four astern of 
 the ear^o, hciidin^" their hodies to «'acli lonj^ but steady 
 stroke in perfeel rhythm. Sittinn' on u nwit exposal 
 to the seorchinj;' sun would he very trying; to one's 
 patience hut for the interesl <'reated by watching,' tli<» 
 crocodiles as tiiey slide lazily from th<* l)anks into liie 
 water at our a|»proacli, or lookinu,' at the numerous 
 hii)| IS that intest lli<5 river, hohhinj^ up eveiy few 
 hundi'cd yai'ils, extendini;' their eiioi'tnons jaAvs, snort- 
 in*;- and hiowinu', often in danp'rous jtroximity to our 
 fra,ii:il<^ l)ark, sometimes as many as forty to fifty in a 
 her<l; hut we shoot past, giving? them as wide a hertli 
 as j)Ossihle. 
 
 There is nothiuij: remarkable in tho scenery, as avo 
 are still in the Barotse Valley, and the banks are oidy 
 fi-om four to six foet high; Av'nile the A'ast grassy plains 
 sti'ctch out on either side; with scarcely a bush to bo 
 si'cn, although now and again we notice a large tree 
 standing solitary and ulone, marking the grave of some 
 ancestral chief. On getting opposite any of these, the 
 boatmen ship* their i)addles, drop on their knees, clap 
 their hands (Kaiidele), and, raising their hands above 
 their heads, shout, "Yo sho ! " (SliAvilela) to these de- 
 funct chiefs — the gods of the Marotsi. 
 
 At one plac(\ Avhere a very powerful ruler is said to 
 have been buried, they stopjx'd and'Avent ashore, when 
 
fii 
 
 I 
 i 
 
 184 
 
 REALITY VERSUS R0M/1NCE. 
 
 the lioadiiiun Limaiiibti requested me to contribute a 
 yard of cloth as a peace-offering. 1 of course declined, 
 so one of the birds shot in the morning was taken and 
 laid out very solemnly on the ground. Limamba, act- 
 ing as priest, gathoi-ed the crews round him, all kneel- 
 ing, when ho proceeded to implore their (.genius to be 
 so good as not to be angry with them, as they were 
 starting on a long voyage with a wiiite man; and 
 pleaded that they might go safely and be preserved 
 from the hippos, crocodiles, and rapids. Prostrations 
 and salutations followed, as if in the presence of a liv- 
 ing king. They were very wroth with me for with- 
 holding the cloth, and threatened to stop; but a lit- 
 tle firmness, with counter-threats and some storming, 
 brought them on, and we reached Nalolo, the village 
 of tlie queen, Makwai, about 3 p.m. We pitched our 
 camp in sight of her town, but by the time my tent 
 Avas up fever had me down; yet I had to struggle 
 against my sickness, and with an effort walked over 
 to pay a formal call to and salute her majesty, other- 
 wise we should have no firewood. Excusing myself 
 for my brief visit, I returned to camp and turned in 
 as soon as I could. 
 
 Next morning we made an early start, but lost a good 
 deal of headway crossing and recrossing the river to 
 avoid the hippos. I find sitting in one place exposed 
 to the scorching rays of the sun and glare from the 
 water for eight or nine hours very trying. The (hiy 
 we left Lialui my underlip got badly blistered ; now the 
 blisters are broken and very sore, causing much pain 
 Avhen I touch them. Added to this, the uj^per lid of 
 my right eye is decorated with the seventh sty I have 
 
 M!H 
 
\ 
 
 THE OM/INDF. SHF.l.L 
 
 185 
 
 ntribute a 
 ) declined, 
 taken iiud 
 amba, act- 
 all kneel- 
 jius to be 
 they were 
 man; and 
 preserved 
 ostrations 
 !e of a liv- 
 t'or witli- 
 biit a lit- 
 storniing, 
 he village 
 tched our 
 my tent 
 struggle 
 ced over 
 y, other- 
 niyself 
 nrued in 
 
 5t a good 
 river to 
 exposed 
 roni the 
 ^he day 
 now the 
 leli pain 
 jr lid of 
 r I have 
 
 
 ■0 
 
 4 
 
 had since c^oming to the valley. Still, these are minor 
 suffering.-:, if the fever would only give us a respite for 
 a while. 
 
 Liniamba, my ])oatswain, tries hard <n-ery ev(Miing to 
 so time our progress that Ave shall halt at an old camp; 
 l)rt they are generally so very dirty and so infested 
 Avitu vermin that I invarial)ly nvoid them, lie dislikes 
 being thwarted, and would like to pose as "aptain, as 
 at home he is a minor chief, and Avears round his neck 
 the insignia of his rank — an omande shell. Non(i but 
 chiefs or those of royal blood are permitted to Avear this 
 distinguishing iKidge. 
 
 Livingstones refers in his first l)ook (page HOO) to the 
 veneration i i Avhich the omande; shell Avas held in his 
 day among ihe ]\[akalolo. He gives a good illustration 
 of the original shell, from the end of AA'hich thest! are 
 obtained, and Avrites: 
 
 "As the last ]>roof of friendship, Shinte came into 
 my tent, though it could scarcely contain more than 
 one i)erson, lov)ked at all the curiosities — the quicksil- 
 A-(>r, the looking-glass, books, hair-brushes, comb, AA'"atch, 
 etc, — Avitli the greatest interest; then, closing the tent 
 so that none of his own i)eople might se«> th«^ extrava- 
 gance of which he Avas about to he guilty, he drcAV out 
 fro>n his clothing a string of beads and the end of a 
 conical sliell, Avhich is considered in regions far frojn 
 the sea ot r.s great A'ahu; as the lord-mayor's badge in 
 London. He hung it round my neck, and snid, *Thei'<», 
 now, you h.aA'e a proof of my fi-iendshi]).' ^\y men in- 
 formed me that these shells arc so highly A'alued in this 
 quarter as evidences of distinction that for two of them 
 a slave might be bought, and five Avould be considered 
 
If 
 
 tf i 
 
 II I 
 
 180 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 ji IuukIsouio price for an eleplumt's tusk worth ton 
 pounds." 
 
 I nuiy say that these sh'^Us are becoming rare, and are 
 more than double the vahie now than forty years ag;o. 
 At the present day one will jjurchase a slave, and two 
 a good tooth of ivory; whih> it is a recognized law in 
 the Barotse, that, if a condemned man is brought out 
 to be executed, for whatever crime, if anyone will hand 
 over their "omande" to the king the culprit is at once 
 set fr(H; and bec'ome^'. the property of whoever pays this 
 ransom. I am pleased ut having procured five speci- 
 mens of the'"!> interesting shells, not, however, without 
 a deal of irouljle, as the owners were very loath to part 
 with them ; but the temptation offered of possessing a 
 red blanket was irresistible. 
 
 I shot several ducks, two spur- winged geese, and 
 a beaiiliful specimen of th» great fish-eagle, the out- 
 stretched wings of which measured six feet seven inches 
 from ti[) to tip. This bird resendjles the pictures we are 
 familiar with surmounting the "stars and stripes" of 
 the T"nite(l States — the proud emblem of liberty: black 
 beak, white neck and breast, dark (chocolate bodj', black 
 wings, yellow legs, and enormous black claws. They 
 live entirely on fish, and from the overhanging branches 
 the}' watch for their prey to come to the surface of the 
 water, when like lightning they swoop down and seize 
 it in th(Mr powerful talons, retiring into the bush to 
 enjoy their meal. This bird sometimes secures fish up 
 to eighteen incdies in length. AVhen the capture is wit- 
 nessed by the boatmen they make a bee-line in its direc- 
 tion and rob it of the prize. 
 
 In the evening we reached Senanga, the extreme 
 
worth ton 
 
 are, and are 
 ' years ngo. 
 ro, and two 
 ized law in 
 ronglit ont 
 e will Inuid 
 is at once 
 V pays this 
 five speci- 
 iT, Avithout 
 Eitli to part 
 assessing- a 
 
 -a 
 
 geese, and 
 ', the out- 
 ven inclies 
 ires we are 
 tripes" of 
 •ty: black 
 3dy, black 
 vs. They 
 ' branches 
 ace of the 
 and seize 
 i bush to 
 OS fish up 
 ire is wit- 
 its direc- 
 
 •M 
 
 :is 
 
 extreme 
 
f? M 
 
 i; I 
 
 (■■ if 
 
 ■ill r 
 
 1 ■ ! ■ 
 
 ■|i * 
 
 t ■ 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 /i# m^'*! 
 
MORE PORTENTOUS GAME. 
 
 187 
 
 southeast end of the Barotse Valley, and wo camp at the 
 edge of a forest. It is quite a relict' to see trees agahi 
 after the monotony of seven weeks on the unbroken 
 expanse of grass and reeds. Here we must stop for a 
 few days, as part of my loads, whieh have como so far 
 by water, nnist now be taken by carriers overland to 
 Sesheke, which we hope to reach three weeks hence. 
 We wore not long in (?amp when natives brought some 
 sweet milk for sale. Its abundance at Lialui and Sefula 
 has been a great luxury to us, and it will probably bo 
 some time ere we meet with such good fortune again, 
 as after leaving Senanga we shall find no more villages 
 until wo reach Sesheko. The prominent features of 
 this camp are crocodiles and niosqviitoes: the latter fill 
 the air with a buzz like a hive of l)ees, and their sting is 
 little less severe; while out on the water, at about fifty 
 yards from where I sit, three huge crocodiles are float- 
 ing like logs on the sui't'ace. 
 
 January 'J2d. It has been raining heavily for most 
 of the day. The headman of the overland detachment 
 has arrived with his carriers. This is encouraging, and 
 certainly surprises me not a little — a happy contrast to 
 my troubles with the AVest (*oast natives. Serving out 
 a little gunpowdei', caps, hnid, and a, few pieces of calico 
 completes the arrangements, and they arc; olf ; to-mor- 
 row, all being well, we do likewise. In the evening I 
 went up the rivm* a mih*, and shot thirteen ducks and 
 two goose — the last we sliall see of them for some time, 
 as they are seldom seen except in the vicinity of marshes. 
 But we are g(>tting out our belts and rifle cartridg(>s for 
 more portentous game, that we ho]ie to stalk during 
 the next three weeks, as 1 am told antelopes of almost 
 
 ,/iV%-^ 
 
188 
 
 REALITY l/ERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 % *' 
 
 Ptll 
 
 every variety abound on both l);uiks of tlie river; but 
 that means, too, that we must keep a sharp lookout for 
 lions and leopai'ds, for where g'ame is plentiful these are 
 l^cenerally not far away. 
 
 On the 2.'kl we struck eamp juid pushed off a<jf!iin, 
 the men pullinj? with ])kMity of vim aftcn* their lew 
 ilays' rest. 1 noticed the high-water mark of the Zam- 
 besi ]>y the debris deposited amonu; the? branches of 
 souK^ trees twelve feet above the present V'\v\, and in- 
 dii^ating the lieight it will possibly reach in another 
 two months. The scenery is now completely changed ; 
 instead of the bald and unintei'esting banks on either 
 side, we have a variety of splendid trees with very few 
 breaks. This does not present a tropical appearance, 
 by any means; on the contrary, so far as th(» vegeta- 
 tion is concerned one might easily imagine one's self on 
 any of our beautiful English or Canadian rivers in mid- 
 sunnncr. The many islands brought back to us hap])y 
 memories of camping days on the Georgian Bay. Nor 
 are the trees so close as to hide the sward, with its 
 crop of rich deep green grass between, at times remind- 
 ing one of a park in the vicinity of some old English 
 mansion. But the illusion does not last long, for right 
 near us pops up the head of a hii)popotamus, Avith a 
 grunt that startles the boatmen and makes them re- 
 double their energies to get as far and as quickly away 
 from him as possible. While rounding a bend we see 
 the armor-clad crocodiles glide noiselessly out into deep 
 water, casting hungry glances at the naked figures 
 whose approach has disturl)ed their n^pose; and in the 
 trees various species of monkeys and baboons are sport- 
 ing among the branches. 
 
 f ;-■ 
 
CHARMING SURROUNDINGS. 
 
 181> 
 
 river; but 
 ookout for 
 il these are 
 
 off {i^^iiin, 
 their few 
 r the Ziini- 
 I'aiK'hes of 
 'el, Mild iii- 
 11 Jiiiotlier 
 ' chaiijjjed ; 
 ! on »Mther 
 1 very few 
 r)iiearaii('e, 
 le ve^'i^ta- 
 e's self on 
 rs in mid- 
 US happy 
 5ay. Nor 
 with its 
 reniiiid- 
 English 
 for ri,i;ht 
 s, Avith a 
 hem re- 
 Idy away 
 d we see 
 nto deep 
 figures 
 id in the 
 re sport- 
 
 The placid water looks like a lake, and the numerous 
 islands, varying;- in size from a few feet sipiare to many 
 acres, are all richly clad with vegetation, the larger 
 ones abounding in game. On one of these, called Beta, 
 to our right and on the west bank, we canii* for the 
 night. I am simi)ly charmed with my surroundings; 
 and who would not be? Gipsying uader the sliadi^ of 
 lordly trees like great oaks, wliieh shelter us from the 
 sun by their far-s[)rea(hng branches; no thorns, jungU?, 
 creepers, or underbrush of any kind, but soft, fresh 
 grass, about a foot high. The chief interest, however, 
 is centered in three pots that are steaming over the 
 tire, one containing rice, another cornnieal dumplings, 
 and the third ribs of a pallali buck shot about an hour 
 ago, within three hundred yards of camp. At a little 
 tUstance the canoe-men are riggii'g up their lean-to 
 sheds of twigs and grass, while others are cooking 
 their share of the antelope. There are plenty of mos- 
 quitoes, and, what is perhaps worse, swarms of th(5 
 tsetse-fly — th«; dreaded .-courge of domestic animals in 
 Central Africa. The men are not giving mo tlu; slight- 
 est trouble so far, and, if I may judge from appear- 
 ances, everything bids fair for the water journey to 
 Ivazaiigulu being little short of a pleasure trip. I 
 would willingly have remained at this lovely s[K)t for 
 another day, Lut this must not bo; so W(5 load U}) in 
 the morning and launch away. 
 
 The river si)readiiig out to nearly a mile in width 
 gave us a great deal of shallow water ; twice my canoe 
 was stuck fast on the top of stones— the first we have 
 come across of any size, large or small, in the last six 
 hundred miles. Now we would rather l)e without 
 
 
 1' 
 
u 
 
 m 
 
 Iff 
 
 ! . .1; 
 
 l^S- 
 
 .': i 
 
 :;: ' !: 
 
 ',1 i' : 
 
 1 
 
 
 j 
 
 , t ft 
 
 ■ 
 
 it 
 
 I ^ 1 
 
 ^ i 
 
 1! ; 
 
 li. 
 
 1!)() 
 
 RliALllY n-.RSi:s ROMANCE. 
 
 thorn, for, boiiij? lur<?o ])oiil(lt'i's liiddcii iiiidcr tiic water, 
 whicli is (lai'k at lliis season of tlie year, we are in con- 
 stunt (lani-'er of an npset. \Vt> readied Sionui in llie 
 ut'ternoon, within a mile and a half of the Falls of 
 Ooiiya. To avoid tlio latt<'r we have to ^ct all the 
 canoes taken from the Avater and drau'ii'ed overhind foi' 
 a distance of sonu; fonr miles; j)nt 1 find tliat Lewa- 
 nika has thoii,i;litfnlly sent on a man to collect natives, 
 so as to luiV(i no delay. 
 
 The movinjz'of canoi^s overland at Sioma is mado the 
 subject of a pictiu'e and descrii>tion extraordinary in 
 the book "How 1 Crossed Africa," represent iiiL;" hnn- 
 drcds of men, a])out forty at each canoe, <'arryin<>' them 
 on sticks hiid unihM'iieath, and clind>in,i;' nj) a. sleep hill 
 thron<;'li dense forest and tropic-d folia,u'•^ This is ^-ross 
 exaiiii'eration from first to last, but oidy on a par with 
 tlu^ r(>st of this two-volumed ])ook. The same may Ik* 
 said of th(! writing's of several other African travelers 
 who might l)e named, and whose literature c;in only 
 rank in the estimation of thos(> who linve visited these 
 places, written as it is by these exc<'edin,iiiy imaginative 
 scri]>blers, among "dime novels" and "penny dread- 
 fuls." I don't believe ther<' is a country under heaven 
 that has been the subject of more romancing and mis- 
 representation than Africa. 
 
 The transferring of the canoes past the falls is, after 
 all, a Very commonplace affair. They are not carried, 
 but dragged n'long the ground by means of bark ropes, 
 and alwjiys liave been since traveling by the riv(>r 
 began, with not more than twelve men to each ; and 
 as to the hill, there is nothing imposing al)Out it, being 
 only five or dix I'eet high. Nor is there uuy forest, 
 
 
UOSf STORIES. 
 
 191 
 
 • tii(> water, 
 nvo ill coii- 
 oimi ill llii' 
 \\o Falls (.!• 
 nvt all the 
 )Vorlaii(l for 
 that Lowa- 
 k'ct natives, 
 
 is mado the 
 ordinary in 
 Lnitiiii;' liim- 
 rrying' them 
 > a sleep hill 
 'his is gross 
 I a par with 
 lino may he 
 111 travelers 
 •e can only 
 •isited those 
 imai;'iuative 
 
 liny divad- 
 lider luniveu 
 
 ig and mis- 
 
 [ills is, v.ftov 
 mot carriod, 
 [bark ropes, 
 the river 
 
 eaeh ; and 
 [ut it, Loing 
 
 any forest, 
 
 unless u solitary tree in every other acre can he nuuh) 
 to do duty I'oi- the dense jungle so elaborately por- 
 trasMMl hy pen and ix-ncil. In the same hook we have 
 a sketch of lion-shooting at night, hy the light of a 
 )>ull's-eye lantei-n in the hand of a hoy, relleeting on a 
 pair of monster males, wIk) ai'e represented as standing 
 Avithin twenty yards of the eanip, patiently receiving 
 their tniij) (If f/rdci: It also contains tlie tragie and 
 ]»lo(»d-ciii'dling account of an attack on the author's 
 <'anip liy the Maiotsi, uIk'Ii he, with l)Ut a iiandfr' of 
 men, defended the honor of the Portuguese tlag against 
 Imixlreds of natives, killing seventeen of the assailants. 
 This thrilling storv is also unti'iie, and without the 
 slightest foundation. I feel it (Uie to the ^hirotsi to 
 give it a (hit contnuhction, for the wonld-he hei-o ar- 
 rived at Liahii in a destitute eondition, was the recipi- 
 ent of Lewanika's hospitality and protection, and was 
 undei' ohligation to him for men and hoats to proceed 
 on his jourm\v. ]>iit far too much of this sort of thing 
 has IxH'ii foisted on the public, giving the general 
 reader a vague and totally erroneous idea of the coun- 
 try and its peoples. There is quite suflficient to tell 
 about Africa that is truly wonih'rful, and of intense in- 
 terest to all who desire to acquire a knowledge of tlie 
 " Dark Continent," without turning it into fiction and 
 fable. 
 
 As the day cleared up, T got a few boys, and with 
 my photo apparatus trudged off to the Falls of (lonya. 
 After walking a mile and a half we came to a braiudi 
 of the river about a liumh'ec] vards wide, that cut us 
 off completely from the only jtoint where tlie cataract 
 can be seen to advantage. There being no canoe near 
 
192 
 
 RE/iUTY n:RSUS ROM/INCE. 
 
 1 . i 
 
 I \ 
 
 by, uiid HS tlu' wntor did not jippcar to Itc nioro tlinn 
 wuist-d('('i>, (»iir only altt'i'nntivr wjis to strip and wado 
 it. Our progress was slow, llic current In'injj^ strong 
 and till! stoiK.'S slippery; patience and perseve'rance, 
 however, triunipluMl, and we r«'aclied the other side in 
 safety with my camera. It proved to bo a rocky islaiKJ, 
 which I crosst'd. and sat down on a boulder, to ^aze on 
 a scene so ji'raud that few men would regret traveling 
 a thousand nules to see. The volume of wat<'r consti- 
 tuting- the falls, thou*;'!! great, does not represent tlio 
 entire width of the Zamliesi here — perhaps not more 
 than half, as, besides tlie jjortion we waded through, a 
 large part is cut oft' by an island on the west side, that 
 rejoins the main stream about two hundred yards l)e- 
 low, in beautiful cascades, a third part coming iii still 
 lower down in roaring rapids. The day was unfavor- 
 able for photography, as I had to unlimber my appa- 
 ratus every few minutes and protect it with my water- 
 proof cloak from the torrents of rain, which gave mo 
 but few" intervids. After four hours on the rocks, alter- 
 nately scorched by tho sun and drenched by the rain, 
 wo retraced our steps, gratified beyond measure for 
 the privilege of having been permitted to view tho falls, 
 cascades, and rapids of Gonya. 
 
 The following day wo proceeded with the loads to 
 where the canoes were awaiting us below the falls. 
 Here the river is narrow^, compressed on either side by 
 rocky bluffs, giving a rise of fifty feet at tho end of tho 
 annual Avet seasons. It would be a very easy matt(n' 
 to escape the cataract by cutting a canal to this point, 
 tho route being almost in a straight line, with very few 
 and slight undulations. The day was far gone before 
 
 
 L_. 
 
ZE. 
 
 to 1)0 moro tlmn 
 ^ strip and wndo 
 'lit being strong 
 i«l iKTsovoranco, 
 ho other side in 
 tt rocky i.slaiid, 
 iMor, to gaze on 
 ivgrot travclinir 
 of water consti- 
 t represent the 
 'hnps not more 
 idod tJirough, a 
 west sid(», that 
 Kh-ed yards be- 
 coming in still 
 Y was iinfavor- 
 nl)er my appa- 
 vith my water- 
 fhicli gave me 
 he rocks, altor- 
 ^ by tli(> r.-iin, 
 nieasui'e for 
 view the falls, 
 
 the loads to 
 
 loAv the falls, 
 either side by 
 he end of the 
 
 ("Jisy niatt(>r 
 to this point, 
 vith very few 
 
 gone before 
 
 
 Mfi 
 
 i 
 
 (, 
 
 f.'-fl 
 
 i i 
 
if 
 
 ■'i'l 
 
 II 
 
 > ', 
 
 I Hii' 
 
 1:1 
 
 It 
 
 1; 
 
 (' 
 
 It 
 
 , 5' 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 t 
 
 ' 
 
 f 
 
 f 
 
 ifi 
 
 ;■■ 
 
 :) : 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 J 
 
 
 i 
 
 ; i 
 
 % 
 
 L 
 
THF. MROMA'IIC MOP.-INL 
 
 w:i 
 
 v. 
 
 Wf «()t on tlio wuttT ugaiii, so that an hour al'tfi- start- 
 ing I onh'HMl a halt ami t'ornicd caiiip on a san<lliank, 
 uhout a huiMh't'fl yards U'low the conthu'nco of the 
 Luinhi. This river is over liaif a inilc wide a htth^ 
 liigher up its roursc, hut lier*' comes thundering down 
 a narrow, rocky gorge of not more tliuu lifty yards, us 
 it enters the Zand)esi. 
 
 January *J7tii. As the Barots(^ men are not particu- 
 larly well acquainted with tiie rapids helow Sionia, 1 
 have thought it best to engage a native pilot. I put 
 him in my canoe and h't the otJK'i's f(»llow his lead, as 
 he professes to know every channel among the shallows. 
 A run of three hours brought us to the Kari Rapids, 
 where the waters wens so turbulent and forl)i<lding that 
 we had to unload and carry the stufl' past tlie most 
 dangerous places. 1 have to reserve a portion of each 
 day now for the purpose of hunting, so as to p'*ovid(3 
 m«!at for our thirty-eight hungry men, the corn i' •/ 
 carried with them being finished. Hut it would be an 
 easy matter to feed five times as many liere, as both 
 banks of the river are simply teeming with game. 
 
 During the next few days we nuide but short runs, 
 being frequently delayed m getting our dug-outs safely 
 through the numerous rapids; but the scenery seems 
 more beautiful than evei", the many clusters of wild 
 d'lte palms along the banks adding peculiar charm to 
 the grandeur of the landscape. While camped ut the 
 mouth of the river Injoka, I found myself in a forest 
 of mopani. This tree is a favorite in Africa, althougli 
 it is useless for building purposes. Its leaves when 
 crushed give off an agiecable aroimjtic odor almost as 
 sti'ong as pimento; no 'j.nderwood or serulj grow\s be- 
 
194 
 
 RHAI.ITY ll-.RSilS ROMANCE. 
 
 {£ 
 
 ueutli Its sluult*, l)ut ii oiirp»'t of sliort clean ^rass. Wliat 
 .1 j;<'iiiiiii(' })loasiir<' it is to saunter alon^' under those 
 dark-green trees, without u bush to impede the eareh'ss 
 tread, with the exeei)tion of an oeeasional ehmip of 
 aloes. ()n*> can scarcely conceive that there is not a 
 human luibitation witliin ti>'ty miles of a spot so lovely. 
 
 J struck fresh antelope si)ooi-, and knmv they could 
 not \)i very far uway. A sharp snoi't dnnv my atten- 
 tion to u pallah Ijuck standing at short range, and T tii'cii 
 and di-opped him; l>ut before the echo had <lie(| away, 
 u whole h.M'd cam<^ rushing past, skii'ting the e<lgc of 
 a marsh, and stopping at about u hundred and fifty 
 yards from me. I singled out another and got him, 
 and as they started otV, (ii'ed again and l)rouglit down 
 u third. ^riu> shots having l>een heai'd l)y my Katlirs, 
 a batch of tliem soon api>eared and boiHs the meat i'l 
 triumi)h to camj). 
 
 IJunting in Afrit-a is attended with an amount of 
 excitement and intei'est unknown to the same sport 
 in Eui'ope. Th(> knowledge that the forests through 
 which we uoiselessly glide are haunted by so many wild 
 and dangerous animals keeps one constantly on the 
 alert for the slightest sound that nnght indicate their 
 ]>i-esence. Every clump of inidei'brush is scanned lest a 
 lion or a leoi)ard be lui'king in its dark recesses, ivady 
 to spring on the unwary; while a consciousness of jx'r- 
 fect freedom lends buoyancy to one's si)irits. 
 
 On tlu^ IH)th, while quietly gliding along in smooth 
 water ni^'ir the bank, T Avas aroused by a noise at lirst 
 like distant thunder, but every second coming nearei" 
 and inci'easing to a territic roar, lilce the sound of an 
 ap])roac]iiug express train. I stop[)ed and jumped 
 
/t C.ORGIiOUS SUNSET. 
 
 ID.-J 
 
 <;Tass. What 
 iiiulcr those 
 the ojiivlrss 
 iinl chinip of 
 lior<' is not a 
 pot so loNcly. 
 ■w they could 
 ow luy altcu- 
 gv, and 1 tirt'd 
 id died away. 
 l;' tilt' cdu:,*' of 
 livd and fifty 
 and j;ot him, 
 )i'ou.i;lit down 
 )y my Kattirs, 
 ; the moat i'l 
 
 n amount of 
 (^ same sport 
 rests throu.u'h 
 so many wild 
 antly on the 
 indicatt' their 
 canned lost a 
 '(•esses, roady 
 |isness of por- 
 ts. 
 
 1^' in smooth 
 
 noise at lirst 
 
 l)min.i;" nearer 
 
 sound of an 
 
 and jumped 
 
 :^ 
 
 ii 
 
 ■f 
 
 ashoro. It provod to bo an immense hord of Imlfaloes 
 toariuj;' through the thiekot, within a dozen yards of 
 whoro 1 stood, loavinii' u track l.ehind them as tliou-^h 
 a ro<j;iment of heavy artillei-y Imd just ,i;'ono l»y. Wo 
 i^ot oui- rilles and <;'ave chase; l>ut they li;i<l win<le(l us 
 and swerved roun<l to leeward, and aUhounh we fol- 
 lowed the tremendous trail ftn' two lioui's as hard as wo 
 could, failed to get within li\-e huiidi'ed yards of them, 
 and at last woi'o reluctantly comi>elled to give uj). Wo 
 got a duiker antelope on the way hack. Such abund- 
 an«'0 of g!im(» as swarm in this pai't of tho Zand)osi 
 X'alley I novel' oven dreamed of. A number of zebrus 
 ci'ossed oui' ti'ack, and wo obsei'X'od th(^ spoor of at least 
 six ditferent s[)ecios of antelope. ( )n reaching the river 
 we found that tiie men liad captui'<Ml ;i, bufTalo calf loft 
 l)ohind in tho ma,d rush, and which supi)liod us with 
 delicious veal steaks for dinnei'. 
 
 We got nnd(>r way again, ])ut in a few minutes ar- 
 rived at tho Ngambw(>i Falls. Those' falls are insignifi- 
 cant in themselves, being only live or six feet high. 
 l^ith abov(^ and below them the ri\'or-be(l is full of 
 huge boulih'i's, which with tho rapidity of the <*urrent 
 made tho waters so tumultuous that wo wore obliiit'd 
 to get out of the canoes and drag them by land for a 
 good half-mile, which occupied most of tlu^ afternoon. 
 The (hiy Avas gone, and we camped. T shall over remem- 
 ber the gorgeous sunset of that evening: tho islands 
 so green, and tlu^ reflection in tho water so [)ron(mncod, 
 witii a golden-liuod sliadt^ over all as old Sol retired, 
 making a picture to which no i)ainter's brush could do 
 justic(\ 
 
 jr. - 
 
 % ' 
 -I 
 
 Next morning we came ui)on tho (i,iest 
 
 game sooiio 
 
 ^B 
 
in 
 
 i\ 
 
 i t 
 
 ^ 
 
 196 
 
 RE/tLITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 it has ever been my lot to wituepsi, or ever expect to 
 see again. In the foreground, close to the water, stood 
 a group of nine zebras, including three young colts. 
 Nothing could have been prettier tban the startled 
 mien, the pricked ears, and poise of the heads of these 
 graceful animals, with their beautifully striped coats 
 of erf am and rich dark brown glistening in the morn- 
 ing sun. Beyond them a few yards a herd of harte- 
 beest was grazing, and at a short distance a small 
 valley, like a dip in the veldt, was red with hundreds 
 of roy bucks. One of the men jumped ashore and shot 
 a zebra, when we had an opportunity to examine it 
 closely. Surely this is the most beautiful animal in 
 the African forests! But here sentiment must give 
 place to our mundane wants. Zebra meat is rather 
 sweet to the taste, very tender, though not particularly 
 savory ; but to this the men make no objection, for to 
 them any meat is toothsome. Later in the day, when 
 we had camped, the hunter went out and brought in 
 two roy bucks ; but we are getting surfeited with ven- 
 ison. I would gladly give the finest antelope for a dish 
 of cabbage or a few potatoes; it is now sixteen days 
 since we have tasted vegetables of any kind. At Lialui 
 I prepared a very good substitute for spinach from 
 pumpkin leaves, or a succulent shrub gathered for us 
 by the natives, that served in soL^e measure to appease 
 our craving for green food and aid the digestion, which 
 becomes seriously impaired by an exclusive meat diet. 
 
 I have been wearing for the past few weeks a pair of 
 " veldt sehoons," native made — uppers of koodoo hide, 
 soles of buffalo, and sewn with strips of antelope skin. 
 They are very comfortable to the feet, and are excel- 
 
^CE. 
 
 yt:LDT SCHOONS. 
 
 197 
 
 or ever expect to 
 
 the water, stood 
 hree youug colts, 
 tban the startled 
 the heads of these 
 Lilly striped coats 
 aing ill the niorn- 
 
 a herd of harte- 
 distance a small 
 3d Avith hundreds 
 d ashore and shot 
 ity to examine it 
 autiful animal in 
 iment must give 
 a meat is rather 
 
 1 not particularly 
 > objection, for to 
 in the day, when 
 
 and brought in 
 rfeited with ven- 
 itelope for a dish 
 ow sixteen days 
 kind. At Lialui 
 )r spinach from 
 
 gathered for us 
 [isure to appease 
 digestion, which 
 isive meat diet. 
 
 weeks a pair of 
 
 of koodoo hide, 
 if antelope skin. 
 , and are excel- 
 
 lent for hunting in dry weather, but get like a piece of 
 wash-leather wiieii wet. 1 was obliged to put on a pair 
 of heavy boots this moniing, and, having walked a good 
 deal, find my heels badly blisten'd. 1 have suflfere<l 
 intensely in the past from the strong boots I brought 
 with me from Englan<l, and have come to the conehi- 
 sioii that they ai-e no good for these tracks. With the 
 exception of two or three pairs of tennis-shoes, I have 
 had no comfort in my footgear until I came across 
 '' veldt schoons," and I mean to stick to these as long 
 as they will last — then make another pair. 
 
 
 nil 
 
 n 
 
 m 
 
 ''i/f' 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 FROM HESHEKE TO BA:rANGWATO. 
 
 r 
 
 I, ( 
 
 At Spsli('k(>. — Woi'kiii}^ iimlcr (lillicnltics.— IiulifTcroiiec of flio nativos. — 
 I'iiy t'di' " woi'kiiiji l)()()k." — Not (luilc their ('«|iiiil. — Ciipiiliilitics of tlio 
 soil, — .Monsii'iirdoy's letter. — I)riiiiiiiitr Mini in'it,'ation. — Canoes ciiitsized. 
 — Ka/.iiii!,'iilii. — The Frendi mission. — Isolation and loneliness. — Pre- 
 monitions of troiihle. — Wholesale desertions. — Lost hearinj^s. — A monop- 
 olist. — Ti'ojiical seenery. — Victoria Falls.- — I''or hours we stand f^a/.iiif;. 
 — The },n'eat lissnre. — I5al)ooiis. — J5atokaland. — Keturii to Kazunj^nla. — • 
 I'l'eparations for crossinj^ the desei't. — The tsetse-lly helt. — I'andama- 
 tenka. — Ronf^h road. — A l)roken dessel-hoom. — .\ nij^dit amon^ lions. — 
 J'ro;;iani of a day. — Xo water. — Thirst, thirst, thirst ! — Biisiinien. 
 
 FEBRUARY 1st. Now all is chiuiovd ; the Elysian 
 scenes in "svliic^h wo huv(^ i'evel(Ml thoso many days, 
 to ns arc no more. Tlie conntry on both sides is a^'ain 
 low, flat, and swampy; few tr(>es, and eons(H]nently no 
 largo game, hnt a(iuatic birds abnndant, as in the I5a- 
 rotse. We made a long rnn to-day, from 7 a.:\i. nntil 
 5.,')() r.M., when W(» rcrclicd Seslielvo, where Dr. Living- 
 stone had his headquarters wliih^ exploring in these re- 
 gions. There is now here a station of the Paris Evan- 
 gelical ^Mission, in charge of j\ronsieur and jNFadame 
 (loy, who were expecting my arrival, and tendered mo 
 a Avelconie so hearty that T felt very mnch at hotno 
 
 right away. \ met ^lonsieur \' , a yoimg French 
 
 missionary, who arrived here a few W(>eks ago; bnt he 
 lias snil'ered so severely fi'om fever that Ik^ is nnablo 
 
 to I'emnin, and is now making preparations to return. 
 
 ins 
 
 ) 
 
iVATO. 
 
 iMico of tlid nativos. — 
 1. — <.'ai))iliilitif>s of tlio 
 ion. — ( 'allocs ciipsizcd. 
 and loiicliiu'ss. — iVc- 
 it bcanii<,',s.— A inoiiop- 
 oiirs we siiuul f,'azhif,'. 
 ■turn to Ka/iin^'ula. — 
 
 c-fly l),.lt._l>;ni(l;illKl- 
 
 niH:lit ainoiif,' lions. — 
 •st I — Biislniion. 
 
 ;'G(1 ; the Elysian 
 lioso many days, 
 til sides is a^ain 
 r'oiisoqueiitly no 
 d, as ill flic Ba- 
 •oin 7 A.M. until 
 H'l'c Dr. Livinir- 
 I'iiig" in tlicso IV- 
 tlio I*aris Evan- 
 V and i\radame 
 id toiKlored me 
 mncli at liomo 
 youno- Fivnch 
 ks a,i;'o; ])iit lio 
 d li(^ is iinal)lo 
 311.S to return. 
 
 i 
 
 '('1 
 
 i 'j.i 
 

 l^l' \: 
 
 if 
 
 < 
 
 ■ 
 
 : i 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 !i 
 
 if 
 
55^ 
 
 '.•;'*■ 
 
 
 ( > ;' 
 
 .•):...:■ 
 
 1 ;^!.-.^.^fe, 
 
 
 .;>,- Ir- 
 
 ^i1^' ' A^\^ 
 
 'I 
 
 HOI<k'l\(, 6.\/>;:/v' DirilCULTIliS. 
 
 IDD 
 
 Next inoniin^' the chief, Nuuainvaiui, and lioadmeii 
 assciubletl, and mucli time was occupied in paUiA'or, 
 talkiiiu' over the prospects of my journey beyond Ka- 
 ziuigiUa, as they have to find more carriers for me by 
 order of Lewanika, for we are stiil in his territory. 
 We will be delayecl licre a few <hiys, as the overhmd 
 caravan has not y<'t turned up. 1 sent on tlie two 
 .Jamaicans in char,i;'e of the I'oats and _i;'oods to Kazun- 
 guhi, as I liiid the spot wliei'e the cam]) is pitclied veiy 
 unhealthv, and thev art^ having- constant fever. 1 would 
 have left one oi' ev(Mi both these youni;' men at either 
 of th(^ ['""rencli mission st- 'ions; but from th(^ fact of 
 their suffering' so much fi-om the b'ver, 1 realized tliat 
 to do so meant tlie sjicrilice of their lives at no distant 
 date. 
 
 February 9th. The whole of the j^ast wei^k has been 
 spent at St'sheke, waitini;' for the loads by land. They 
 arrived yesterday afternoon with all the goods safe; 
 and to-day 1 have made arrangements to start for Ka- 
 zung'ula to-m()rr(»w moi-ning. The work on this sta- 
 tion, like most new missions in the interior, is discour- 
 aging in the extreme. For many months ^Monsieur 
 Goy, although often j)rostrated with fever, brought on 
 by exposure and fatigue, has ))een bravely toiling at 
 the building of a meeting-house, and has at last com- 
 pleted it. He had to go to the forest and with his own 
 hands cut the Imnbei', load it on his wagon, and drive 
 it hom<'; tlien to prepare the .vood for the frame, put 
 on the rafters, and thatch the roof with grass, almost 
 Avithout aid, for he could not pei'suade the natives to 
 risk theii- preciou. lives by clind)ing up even half-way 
 to hand him a rafter or Itundle of thatch. The few 
 
 ^!' 
 
iiii. 
 
 
 i: i !i 
 
 * ,' 
 
 200 
 
 lUl.lLITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 Avlio were employed to cut g^rass, etc., p:ave '. /a no end 
 of worry, (ivcry pay-duy dciiiandiiiK- doth anu beads far 
 ill excess of the (jiuaitiiy agreed upon, or tl,. nominal 
 amount of work [»ei'foriiied. 
 
 Last Satur(Uiy week, aft<>r intii/it^ kibor and trouble, 
 the building- was re,;dy for holding services, ami Mon- 
 •ieur Goy rejoiced iit the thought that now, surely, the 
 people would come and hear the gospel in a place so 
 ' omfortabh', yet having <'()st them nothing. Monsieur 
 Uoy proposed to have a fonmd opening, and went 
 around the villages inviting the people to come. About 
 a liundrtMl and fifty resi)oiided to the call, as there was 
 to be a ro.;sted ox distributed. But yesterday, there 
 being nothing promised to eat, the service commenced 
 with an audience consisting of the chief, five lads, and 
 four women. .Vb'out a dozen more sauntered in before 
 the close of the service, but the manifest total iiuliifer- 
 eiice of the natives is even more disheartening than 
 open hostility. There is no difficulty in getting peo- 
 pk' who come round the station during the week to 
 listen, even witli api)arent interest, for hours together, 
 to spiritual counsel ; but it woukl be a mistake to con- 
 clude that their assents and nods of approval are sin- 
 cere. One young missionar}', in his innocence and 
 zeal, was so delighttM] with the long conversations he 
 vras having daily with three men posing as inquirers, 
 that it formed the subject, nu^anwhile, of a very inter- 
 esting letter he was writing to friends at home. But 
 ii<>ar the end of the week, the trio, lingering round the 
 door to a later hour than usual, were asked why they 
 waite(L The answer was prom})t, "We are waiting for 
 five days' !->«■«'• " " Pay for what ? " r[ueried the aston- 
 
 I t^lH 
 
 I i; "1" 
 
 ui, i '': 
 
)MANCE. 
 
 etc., f?ave ". n no end 
 !«: cloth anu beiids fur 
 upon, or tl,. nominal 
 
 it^ la])or and ti-onblo, 
 1^' services, and Mon- 
 tliat now, surely. Hie 
 gospel in ;i place .so 
 I nothing. .AJonsieiir 
 opening, and w.-nt 
 oplo to come. xVlmut 
 he call, as tliere was 
 But yesterday, there 
 i service commenced 
 chic^f, five lads, and 
 sauntered in hel'ore 
 nifest total indiffer- 
 lisheartening than 
 t.v in getting peo- 
 uring th(! week to 
 'or liours together, 
 )e a mistake to con- 
 approval are sin- 
 lis innocence and 
 JC conversations he 
 osing as inquirers, 
 le, of a very inter- 
 ds at home. But 
 ngering round the 
 i-e asked why they 
 tVe are waiting for 
 lueried the astou- 
 
 r/1Y FOR "irORKING BOOK." 
 
 207 
 
 ished missionary. " Well, now ! Did you think we w-":'f 
 comint in'iv t-vcry day to listen to you for nothing?'* 
 
 I'hus the ilUision was rudely disp<>lled, and, like an 
 honest man, he tore up the interesting letter. 
 
 Monsieur Coillai'd and others liavo had similar ex- 
 periences in attempting to get lads to attend school. 
 They ex[)ect the same i)ay for " working l)ook"as for 
 any other form of labor, and the young imder instruc- 
 tion at the various schools of ! e -lissiou are mostly 
 those sent by the chiefs, who . "e q e willing to have 
 the children taught to read. />r..vided th<! missionary 
 takes the (Mitire charge of tiiei sni>plying them with 
 food and clothing at his ow i ex])ense. The Christian 
 workers see fr<'sh })roofs ev* y day of liow little, after 
 all, "th<' line ujion line and precept upon precept" has 
 affected the natives. They steal from him at every 
 opportunity, and very rarely can he obtain any redress 
 from the chiefs; consequently ^fonsieur (loy and his 
 brother missionaries are obliged to i)rovide themselves 
 with large dogs to protect theii' pro])erty. 
 
 But for the sure promise^ of a day of reaping, if even 
 long delayed, he would often be ttMiipted to abandon 
 the task as hoi)eless, and retire from the field in (hvspair. 
 
 It has been said that slavery has left its stamp on 
 the negroes of the West Indies, so that it is difhcult 
 now to eradicate the evil propensities accpiired by 
 their forefathers in the days of forced lal)or. Be this 
 as it may, one thing is certain : great good w^ould ac- 
 crue to these natives by compelling them to perform 
 some honest work, and keeping them at it, for at least 
 eight hours a day, until they learned the vakie of 
 manual labor. Their natural conceit, pride, and lazi- 
 
m 
 
 I'A .! 
 
 
 i:; t' 
 
 
 I, 
 
 NT 
 
 <': m 
 
 \ i 
 
 202 
 
 Rl-.Al.ll Y yi:RSUS liOMANCt. 
 
 iioss uro traits of rliaructcr tluit arc almost prohibitivo of 
 tlu'ir accept iiij^ the teachings or roUowinj;,' the cxanipio 
 of the white man, whom llie natives, of thes(> parts at 
 least, look upon as — to put it mildly — not (piite their 
 0(iual. 
 
 Never, until tlio present absolute power of the \)\\x, 
 chiefs over the body and soul of their vassals is broken 
 (which, however, nuist cona^ at no distant pei'io<l), will 
 there beany real suci'css in spreading' the fj;()spel amonjj^ 
 them. The missionary is ever conscious thai while* ho 
 is si)eakin<i', the people l)eforo him, if they think at all, 
 are debatinj;' in their own minds, " Were I to become a 
 Christian, what would my chief say if" for well they 
 know that tlu* ethics of Christianity are condemmitory 
 of the life, con(hict, and chai'acter of their rulei's. 
 
 Before leavinj^' Seshcke, let me answer the (piestion, 
 " What are tho prospects for agriculture in the Zambesi 
 Valley!" by (iuoting a letter received from jNIonsieur 
 (Joy, who is an authority on the subject, not oidy by 
 reason of his practical experience of several years in 
 the country, but also because his knowledge as a scien- 
 tili<' agricultui'ist gives special importance to his tes- 
 timony. ]\ronsieur (Joy, I may mention, is a native of 
 Switzei'land. lie writes: 
 
 "I would like to assist incognito at tlie lectures you 
 Avill giv(» on your i)eregrinat ions through the Dark Con- 
 tinent. Yet T am sure you wmII not imitate so many 
 travelers, who in theii' own interest have always over- 
 praised Africa, in (Estimating too highly its mineral 
 wealth and the fertilitv of tla^ soil in certain regions. 
 You will render a great service to the general public in 
 describing the country along the Zambesi Kiver, which 
 
INCH. 
 
 Iiiiost proliibitivoof 
 owin^- the cxaiiiplo 
 s, of tlicsc pjii-ts at 
 y — not (iiiito their 
 
 power of lh(> hxa 
 
 V vassals is broken 
 
 istaiit i>ei-io(l), Avill 
 
 ;• the gospel among 
 
 'ions that wjiile ho 
 
 tlK'y think at all, 
 
 K'r(» r io liocomo a 
 
 r:'" for well they 
 
 are eoiideiiinatoiy 
 
 their j-ulei-s. 
 
 wer the (luestion, 
 
 ■0 in the Zjunbesi 
 
 I from ^Monsieur 
 
 i<'''t, not only by 
 
 several years in 
 
 ■ledge as a seicn- 
 
 auee to his Ics- 
 
 II, is a native ol;' 
 
 Hie h^etnres yon 
 Ii the T)ai-k Con- 
 nitat(^ so many 
 '(' alwaj's ovei-- 
 lily its min(>ral 
 tM'taiu regions, 
 noral pnblie in 
 i Kiver, which 
 
 MOMSlfU l< (.0> -S HI II.K 
 
 JOJ 
 
 4 
 
 is supposed Io lie one of the gardens of Africa, l»»it 
 in ividitv is most desolate. iJeiim in the tropics, one 
 would expect to meet with all the fruits and products of 
 those regions; but yon lind nothing else than mealies, 
 Kallir-eorn, ami millet, and very inferior fruits indeed. 
 Tlir harvest is generally v«M'y small, and, notwithstand- 
 ing the game and fish, which an; abundant, peoph^ 
 sutfei' from scarcity of food every year. We an^ the 
 only strangers, and yet liav(i to nnd-ce pi-ovision in ad- 
 vance against the time of famine. One would, then, 
 wonder if by active and intelligent woi'k the Kur<»pean 
 cultures could not bo introduce(l here. 1 can only say 
 that that plan would have little chance of success. 
 
 " For (i\'e yeai's I hav(^ li\'ed in this country, and 
 traveled much, but have not been able to find two 
 s(|uai'e miles of day soil. I have stmlied the ([nestion 
 nioi'e than anything else, as it Avas my vocation by 
 choice. 1 had prepared myself foi' it by a long and 
 s])erial ai)[trenticeship. In coming to the Zaml<esi I 
 })i'oposed to do agricultnral work, but with a pnrely 
 missionai-y aim. [ left France with much conrag(^ and 
 hope for the snccoss of this special mission, which had 
 Itecii intrustetl to mo by (Uir connnittee, and began 
 working at Sefula by opening a canal of two miles to 
 drain a marshy gronnd, and disposing that canal in a 
 way that nuuU^ easy tlio watering of my plantations. 
 A great deception "was in stor<^ for me: the gronnd, 
 onc<' exposed to the snn, turned out to be jmre white 
 sand, and I don't believe tlnd a better result would 
 have been found in any other place. With a great 
 deal of trouljle one might succeed in growing a few 
 vegetables for his own use, but nothing to speak of. 
 
II II 
 
 :nn 
 
 RIlll.riY I'HRSl/S ROM.INCF. 
 
 My own expoi-ioiKM' shows tlinf t'V(>rytliiiij; itii])()rt<Ml 
 uuiinals of ovory kind us w<>ll uh s«'t'(ls, «l»';j;»'iit'rat»', jiii< 
 hftvo to l.H^ rcinnvod uftor Ji coi^jIc of ycurs. 
 
 ur\ 
 
 riiis country, jiid^'cd with inipiii-lifility, is not ; 
 country with a bright t'utun', and oll'crs no iiKhicc 
 iiM'Uts to civiUzation. The lOuropcans who liibor hen- 
 as inissi(»nan('s do 80 from a .sense of duty, and not| 
 tVoni choice." 
 
 IV'bruary lOtli. Ilavinuc bade farewell to the kind 
 friends at Seshek«^ with whom I hiive put in a week 
 so happily, we started this moi-nin*:: in a swift canoe, 
 thirtv-two feet ionu', twentv-four inches beam, and 
 twelve inches deep, with live sti'on*;" paddlers, intend- 
 inji", if ])ossil»le, to reach Ka/un,i:;ula to-ni<;ht, a distance 
 of seventy ndles. liy noon we were in the rajtids of 
 jMomhova, whei'(v J learned that two of my canoes sent 
 on aJK'ad last week got capsized, and the loads, not lie- 
 ing properly secured to the canoes, went to the bottom. 
 They ^vere all recovered, however, and, as they consistcfl 
 chiefly of trade cloth, etc., will bo easily dried. We were 
 moi'e foi'tunate, and reached our destination without 
 any misliaj)s at o.'.M) p.m., nudving the joui'ney in eight 
 hcmrs' actual traveling. The quicker one makes this 
 run, the better, for it is most uninteresting, being shut 
 in nearly all the way by tall reeds and papyrus on either 
 side, the neighboring swamps exhaling, in the early 
 morning i)articul{U'ly, a vile malarious odor. 
 
 On arriving I was warmly greeted ))y Monsieur and 
 IMadame Jalla, of still another French mission station, 
 situated close to the drift, where all who visit Lewanika's 
 country from the south must cross the Zandjesi. It \vas 
 expected that many natives would come aud settle here ; 
 
 i ! 
 
 :;!?;• 
 
OSUNCR. 
 
 cvrrytliiii^ imjiorlcd, 
 st'«'(ls, (l('<^('Uc'rat(', and 
 Ic of years. 
 
 iiMi>arliality, is not a 
 and otTci's IK) indiicc- 
 opcaiis wlio lalior lioro 
 iL'iiH«,' of <liity, and not 
 
 y farewell to the kind 
 
 I have put in u week 
 
 ning in a swil't canoe, 
 
 )ur inehes beam, and 
 
 rong paddlers, intend- 
 
 ula to-night, a distance 
 
 were in the rapids of 
 
 wo of my canoes sent 
 
 and the loads, not lie- 
 
 s, went to tlio bottom. 
 
 and, as they eonsisted 
 
 easily (h'ied. We were 
 
 r destination Avitliont 
 
 the joui'ney in eight 
 
 ifdvcr one makes this 
 
 iteresting, being shut 
 
 [ind pai)ynis on either 
 
 clialing, in tlie early 
 
 ions odor. 
 
 ed by Monsieur and 
 iieh mission station, 
 who visit Lewanika's 
 the Zandjesi. It \vas 
 ome and settle here ; 
 
 ti' 
 
m 
 
 m ' 
 
 m 
 
 1 1 
 
 1! 
 
 L 
 
 - — ii 1 1 1 If m 
 
A BR AVE WOMAN. 
 
 205 
 
 but, altliouf^h sovoral ycir.'s liavo passod sinco tlio station 
 was (.'stablishcd, tlicst; liopos hav«! not Iji'fii rcalizetl. 
 There is not a village or a iiativi; iiut within a mile on 
 this side, and the site is very nnli('iihh\ , I'oi- when the 
 river is in flood tlie water rises to within a few yards oi 
 the dwelling-house, leaving he{ii>s of dt''l)ris and nnid as 
 it reecides. 1 foun<l Frater and .lonalhan conil'ortably 
 enseoneed in an old wagon, whiles all the goods W('i-(5 
 safely stored in a hut. llcrii I discharge thn liarotso 
 l)oat/nen and wait for tin; earrici's to turn up who are 
 to tak(^ niy loads on the next stage of the journey. Tluy 
 are assiMubling every day in responst; to IIks call of the 
 sulM'hiefs sent out by \\w king to collect tliem from 
 the various villages; over a hundred ai'(; already in 
 camp. 
 
 To-day Jack told me that his father (who lives on the 
 other side of tlu! I'iver) objects to his accompanying mc^ 
 furtlu'r as interi)reter unless I promise higgei' money. 
 At present 1 am pa;ying him twic(! as mu<'h as h<! could 
 earn any other way, so I ([uititly told him, much to his 
 ciiagrin, that \ will endeavor to get along without him. 
 A few minut(.'saft«M", Monsieur Jalla told me that he had 
 often thought of the prospects thei"(! might be for mis- 
 sion work in th«3 Batoka country, througii which I in- 
 teiidcMJ to travel", and expi'ossed his desii'e to a<'c(>m|)any 
 iiie as far as the 1\ afnk we 1 liver, lie knows tlieSesulu 
 language well, and sexci'al ol' tli(uneii know both it and 
 Setoka, so that the intei'in'etei- diflieuhy is soKcd. 
 
 All l)eing w<'ll, we start on I'uesday morning. 
 
 JNIadamt; .billa is a h;'av(! little woman, and I'eadily 
 consejits to beinu' left all alone until hei- husband's 
 
 I'etuni, ])robal)ly lhre<i ov four months henc 
 
 Tl 
 
 le ISO- 
 
20G 
 
 Rli.lUTY riiRSUS ROM.IMCr.. 
 
 ■I i . 
 
 11 \l 
 
 lutioii and loiifiinoss of niissionaiy lif(^ liore oan scarcely 
 be realized by workers in more favored spheres. The 
 home life and its pleasures iimst l)e held with a lii;ht 
 hand, for malarial fever ceases not in its deadly work, 
 sparinj;' no one. No loving care or fre(iuent precaution 
 can do more than lessen the attacks of the invisiljle foe, 
 Tlie mcri'v voices of the children and the patter of litth; 
 feet must he lieard by the parents as music that is pass- 
 ing. Madame Jalla in a recent letter writes: 
 
 "Our little darhng ^'aldo is still very well in health; 
 he is not yet eight months ol(L You knoAV that the 
 greatest trial of the missionaries on the Zambesi is that 
 up till now they have ahvays lost their childrcui quite 
 young. W<^ liav(^ two dear little girls l>uried here, and 
 that makes us appreciabi all the more this third child, 
 who seems so strong and well; but the fever is here, 
 threatening us continually, and our joy in having him 
 is always mixed with fear." 
 
 There is as yet no church formed or meeting-houso 
 erected on this station. Tlu^ trials incidental to mission- 
 ary life are at Kazunguhi of a similar nature to those 
 exi>erienced at the other stations of this mission. The 
 work to which these heroic men and wonien have d(>- 
 ^'ote(l their lives can only be described, at pre,'_ent, as 
 resendjling the dead of winter. Now they suiter the 
 chilling l)lasts of a drearj^, lifeless, and frozen apathy 
 on the part of those whose good they seek; but as 
 sj)ringtime and the singing of bii-ds nmst follow winter 
 and the trees put forth the tender leaf, then after a 
 season of shower and sunshine bring forth fi'uit, until 
 the husbandman is made to i-ejoice ovei' gtirnered crojis, 
 so to these tried and faithful toilers shall come a day 
 
 ii i 
 
l.tNCli. 
 
 PREMONITIONS Oh' TROUBLE 
 
 •J(j7 
 
 lilV licreotan scarcely 
 vorcd splHMvs. Tho 
 1)0 liold with Ji li,i;Jit 
 ill its deadly work, 
 t're<|ueiit precaution 
 ■; of the iiivisil)le foe. 
 id the patter of little 
 H iiiusie that is pass- 
 er writes: 
 
 very well in health; 
 You know that tho 
 the Zambesi is that 
 their children qnito 
 rls buried here, and 
 ore this third child, 
 it the fever is hei-e, 
 ' joy m having him 
 
 d or meeting-houso 
 cidental to mission- 
 lar natui-e to those 
 this mission. Tho 
 d women havi; de- 
 li bed, at preiLont, as 
 )\v they suffer the 
 md frozen apathy 
 hey seek; but as 
 nust follow winter 
 leaf, then after a 
 ;• forth fruit, until 
 I'cr u'ariiered crojis, 
 shall come a day 
 
 M 
 
 when "both he that sowcth and he that reapeth shall 
 ivJoii'O together." 
 
 ,Monday,.10th. We liavc^ now a hundred and fifty men 
 ill ciiiip, one third l.wing poi'ters, the rest a company of 
 wnn'ioi's sent by Lewaiiika to cscoi't us as far as tlu^ 
 l\iitnk\ve Kiver. I have been busy all day allotting 
 loads. l»ut somehow with many misgivings. Tliei'c is a, 
 ureal- (leal of talk among the headmen concerning tliti 
 tlaiii:,i'!'s we are to encounter, etc., and, to cap all, a 
 laniioi' lias reached them that an impi of Matebele, the 
 nilic of all others they most (h-cad, has crossed the 
 I'ivci' into i^atokaland and art; lying in wait foi" us. 
 Now these men, who but a short tim(^ ago in a war- 
 dance vowed they would annihilate any o})posing host, 
 however strong, are paralyzed with I'ear, and T should 
 not he surprised if, after all, I am prevented from pro- 
 ceeding by the north bank of the Zambesi. ^Nfost of 
 these braves liavo followed us over four hundred and 
 fifty miles, surely not to show the white feather now! 
 Ves, and at the only time when their company is act- 
 n;dly required. 
 
 All is ready for the march on the morning of tho 18th, 
 when a servant reports that my camp is deserted. The 
 cowardly fellows have fled during the night, doubtless 
 to i-ehitt^ to the king a story of the ai)palling dangers 
 they hav(i escapcMl. Well, better that they go here than 
 latei- on, when I might have bc^en in a worse fix ; thus 
 I am left alone again with my two Jamaicans. This is 
 a crnsher, but, like the African fever, ^•e get used to it. 
 The I'ntni'e is now dark, but in a few days, no doubt, it 
 will bi'igliteii. T must look around for some other means 
 i'oi' continuing my journey eastward. In the meantime, 
 
 M. 
 

 208 
 
 RE/tUTY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 accompanied by jVIoiisif ur Jalla and a few boj's to carry 
 some blankets, we set out on a week's tramp through 
 Batoka, so as to see something of the natives and visit 
 Africa's greatest wonder, the Victoria Falls. 
 
 We went by canoe as far as the Nanpwi Rapids, 
 where we hid the boat and took to a footpath along the 
 river-bank leading to a small village, which we reached 
 at () P.M. Wo turned aside among the long grass and 
 bivouacked under a large tree, thinking it would serve 
 the purpose of a tent ; but its shelter, together with the 
 long grass, harbored such hordes of mosquitoes that 
 when supper was ready our hands were so busy keep- 
 ing off the wretched tormentors that we could scarcely 
 get a chance to carry the food to our mouths. We ate 
 but little, and, being tired, wrapped ourselves in our 
 thick blaidvcts and tried to rest; but it was a weary 
 night. Not ten minutes' sleep could we catch, and our 
 arms ached with the perpetual whacking right and left, 
 which we had to keep up in vsiin efforts to defend our- 
 selves from the "pesky varmint." 
 
 At daylight we had a cup of coffee, and set out on 
 the Tuarch. There was scarcely any perceptible path — 
 now through a rocky I'avine, then across a broad stretch 
 of grass eight to ten feet high. We had soon more 
 than enough of it while trusting to the proverbial na- 
 tive who knows all about the forest and has a natu^'al 
 instinct for finding his way anywhere in the woods. 
 After following him for two hours, we found by his 
 twisting and turning that he had los'. his bearings; 
 so, deposing him fi'om the position of guide, we took 
 our own way, making a bee-line at a right angle to our 
 previi .18 course, and to a point ahead where the hills 
 
 li 
 
 ,-i,>«ffM?*. 
 

 
 ■ 'A 
 
 -iNCE. 
 
 a few lioj's to carry 
 ek's tramp through 
 he natives and visit 
 ia Falls. 
 
 tie Nanpwi Rtipids, 
 I footpath along the 
 s, which we reached 
 the long grass and 
 king it woidd serve 
 !r, together with the 
 of mosquitoes that 
 were so busy keop- 
 it wo could scarcely 
 IV mouths. We ate 
 hI ourselves in our 
 )ut it was a weary 
 1 we catch, and our 
 king right and left, 
 brts to defend our- 
 
 "ee, and set out on 
 
 perceptible path — 
 
 •OSS a broad stretch 
 
 [Ye had soon more 
 
 the proverbial na- 
 
 and has a natu?'al 
 
 iere in the woods. 
 
 we found by his 
 
 |los'. his beorings; 
 
 of guide, we took 
 
 I right angle to our 
 
 ml where the hills 
 
 ^ MONOPOLIST. 
 
 20!) 
 
 >3 
 
 on (Mtlior side seemed to '.'oiivcrgc, juul between wliich 
 Ave knew the river must pass. We wei-e not mistnUeii, 
 iiiid with a f(H'liiig of relief we found ourselves ou the 
 r'm'il road. 
 
 Alioiit noon we sat down in a cool shade for break- 
 fast, rested for a eoii[»le of lioui's, and started again. 
 Xo large game sighted, but I g(jt a few guinea-fowls and 
 nailridges. We halted at ").:)() v.m. nndei' some niot«:;iii 
 tivi'S, and in the stillness of the evening eoiild hear the; 
 distant l)ooni of the fanions eatarael. 
 
 l)ayl»re dv saw us again on the ti'aidc, whi(di in most 
 places was only imagimii'v and vei'v rongh. Ibil the 
 (•hii'f annoyance was fi'om a certain kind of gr.iss that 
 sheds iniuimei'able small, siiarp, elaw-slia[)e(l j»rickles, 
 which stuck to our clothes, })enetrating to the skin lik(^ 
 huiidi'ctls of needles, scai'ifying \v~ all over. By noon 
 illaire of the chief at the drift, who ti'ies 
 
 we rca<'ii( 
 
 dth 
 
 to hold the inonopoly of feri'ving [leople over the I'ixer 
 ahout a niil(wd)ove the falls ; but he did not seem in- 
 clined to oi)lige us right away, in spite of the pi'offeretl 
 pay aiid piv'sent, only remarking hat he would think 
 ahout it and see us to-morrow. '■ meant thereby to 
 show liow little he cai'ed for wl >■ men, and desiring 
 ahovc^ all that we might eat a liule " hnnd)le pie"' by 
 
 )enig un( 
 
 lertl 
 
 le nocessi 
 
 to 
 
 ivor us. 
 
 R 
 
 ty of 
 th 
 
 co; 
 
 ng and l)egging him 
 
 esentniii' this id. 
 
 Moi 
 
 jsieur 
 
 ill 
 
 Ula went 
 
 to interview another chief — n old Makalolo ikiiikmI 
 i\h)satane, one of the very few remaining of that almost 
 exterminated trib(» — who ""reated us with much inoiv- 
 resjiect, presenting us with a sb^ep and ])lenty of meal, 
 and i»romising to see us over in tjie morning. 
 
 We spent the night in a lovely ^rove near the rivev- 
 
 ^t: 
 
 'I 
 
 t , 
 
 ■■ iiti^V^-- -v:»i . % 
 
 cf. 
 
f 
 
 : i; \ 
 
 ■'I ' 
 
 ;l' 
 
 i 
 
 ^11 
 
 |i 
 
 
 210 
 
 REALITY yRRSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 
 siilc. Tlic scenery liei-e is pjii'ticiiliii'ly fine. The riv(>v, 
 lliou.U'li ill out ;i mile wide, is l)i'()|<rii !i[i hy Ini'^c isljiiids 
 of IVoiii ;i liiindreil ;!iid lil'ty to two jnindi'cd yjn'ds; 
 these isl.'illds .Mfe el;id with tlie most t l"oliie;d-!ookilli;' 
 V(\li'et;it ion we li;i\'e set ii. Tiirfe jH'c nninel'oUs d;ite 
 ]i,dnis ct' eonsi(lel';d»ie si/,e. hut, lik<' e\'el'yl hinii' else in 
 
 this dis;ii)]ioi;!l iniv e(»niilry, the I'm it is ,-! delusion, con- 
 sistin.u' of ii hii'u'' stoni' rovrrcd with n \ei'y thin (ilin ^>\ 
 
 eilililc suhst.inee. Lookiu,!;' doWll the l'i\-cr, W'' See li\-t' 
 
 eolunins of spiMy, white ;is snow, risini;' slowly liiLih 
 ;dio\(' the t';dls, ;ind liniA'ei'inu' in <'!ouds tluit glisten 
 lie;iulit'ully in the sunli^'ht. i'];ii'ly in the luorninu- .Mo- 
 s;it;ine ;il»l»e;;i('il wit h t he imiio'.'S ;ind l»;idilleil us o\ri- to 
 tile West h;ink', Avliel'<' the I'idls cnil 1 »e seen to the best 
 ;id\;nil;t,i;v. il;dl' ;in hour's w;dk lil'ou.uht ns close to 
 t he reiiowneij c.-it ;ii';ict , ?ih )si;i-u;; -t unia, or \'ictoi'ia i'idls, 
 as Li\'in'4sloiie named them. 
 
 W'e rouinl a couple of small huts close hy, which 
 came in handy as a tempoi'ary sheiler I'tn' ns while we 
 staycil. 'I'lie numeroir< well-heaten tracks in the hush 
 surrnundin.u' the I'alls suii'^vst the idea that tliei'e must 
 lie any numhei- of sisilors rre(|U('nl in^ the spot. Such 
 is not the explanation: they are formed hy hippos, in 
 their niuiiily p<'i'amoulatious. Thes*^ animals alionnd 
 in hundi'eds, ami there is scarcely a s(piai'e yard IV- m 
 the \cr,uv of the precipice to a radius of a (pnirter of a 
 mile that docs not hear theii" s)»ooi'. Accc :linu" to the 
 natix'es, once or twice a year is ahont tlie IV' (lUency 
 with which wlnte jieople m'd<e theii' ap))eaiance here, 
 an<l the i\al'lirs wonder \-ery mu<-li what e\cn these 
 < (inie for. for tliey see notliin,'^ e\l inordinary in this, to 
 !!'■■, ahuost uuparullelcd woiuler. Wo asked a woman on 
 
 I i i 
 
VI/iNCE. 
 
 iii'ly Cnit'. The i'iv(>r, 
 II lip i>y liii'nv isliiiids 
 two liiiiidi'cil yiinis; 
 iiost tri)|iic;il-l()(ikiiii;' 
 Jii'i' iiiiiiici'oiis <l;it(' 
 ;<■ r\cryl liinii' ''l^i' in 
 lit is ;! dcliisioii. <-(>ii- 
 ill ;i Very iliin (iln) of 
 1 lie ri\('r. W" sec live 
 ', risiiin' slowly lii^li 
 
 clouds tilJlt ,L;iist«'ll 
 
 ill 1 1ll' iiioriiiiiu' .Mo- 
 ld ]i;iddltMl lis ()\ii' to 
 I lie seen to 1 lie Itcst 
 l>roll;i,]i1 us close to 
 Ilia, or \'ictoria l'\ills, 
 
 Ills close liy, which 
 !cr I'oi' r,s while we 
 tra(d<s ill the Imsli 
 ea that t here iiiusl 
 i,i;' the spot. Siich 
 llie(l ])\ liippo.-; ill 
 'SO animals ahoimd 
 I s(piai'e yard I'r mi 
 is of a (piai'ter of a 
 Accc- iilii;' to the 
 •Old til'.' IV' (pleiicy 
 
 r a]»peaiaiice here, 
 I what i'\('ll these 
 ordinary in this, to 
 asked a woman on 
 
 ■r. 
 
 u. 
 
 \\ 
 
 %^''}!''^K^^i:wm^\ 
 
 i.ii, 
 
 '■»*MJ3iI,^| 
 
lii 
 
 !l l\ 
 
 w 
 
 
 U, ' 
 
 
 ' *''*8I 
 
 ii <>■ 
 
 11 
 
 
 m 
 
 r 
 
 i 
 
 M 
 
 m 
 
 
 wg- ' %g»Jiflfc JiSJril««i^Jt»i AIiB^^j.'^-.-^ 
 
in: I OKI. I 1. 1 LIS. 
 
 211 
 
 tlio onst si(l<' of tilt" I'ist'r, iiinl liviiiu" witliiii \\\o iiiili's 
 of tlx' t'iills, ir she 1i;hI cv't'i' s<'<'ii lliciii. \\^^v reply \v;is 
 cliaractcristic: "Oh no! \\\\\\\ should I j^'o and see 
 them Tor? Is there any one ,i;'oiiij4' to ]»iy me for tny 
 troiiltlc.'" 
 
 In tlie at'tci'iioon we weid to view tlie attraction that 
 had indue<'(l ns to walk lil'ty rou,i;'h and weary miles. 
 The hanks are densely wooded with liu,i;'e 1 1'ees and thiek 
 nndei'hriisli. When witinn a slone's-throw ol the water 
 we eidi'red an atmosphere of pei'potiial drizzle, kept n{) 
 hy the spray that rises nncoasiniily in u'reat volumes 
 and eai'ried in the dii'eetioii of the wind, to fall in tine 
 I'ani. The <;ronnd is soi)i)in,s^' wet; every now and then 
 we sink to the ain\les in innd, and in a few minutes are 
 drenelied throui:;h. Yet fur liouivs we stand ,i;'azin,n' in 
 aniaziMuent and awe, contemi dating' this the greatest 
 natui'al phenomenon we have ever seen. Now we are 
 on the ^'(V^{' of tlie eliasm ; hut it is inipossilde, with 
 eitlier ])en or pencil or camera, to ^ive anythin,ii; like 
 an ade([uate idea of the majestic splendor of this rival 
 of Niaji'ara. 
 
 The river is nl)0ut a mile broad as it dashes over a 
 precipice four Inindred feet in de[»th, in a strai<;lit lim; 
 across its entii'e widtli. The chasm into wliich tlie 
 river plnnu'es is a narrow rent not more than a hundred 
 and fifty feet wide, and runs at I'iglit anules to its 
 coui'se, ootting narrower toward tlie eastern bank. Tlio 
 oi»posite side of the fissure is very precii)itouy, of hard 
 basaltic rock, and almost on a level with the river 
 above; but on account of the dense fog' one cannot see 
 more than a couple of hundred yai'tls at a time, and 
 that only when a gust of wind blows it to one side, 
 
 l^at?^ i^i:;^^l?Jla^c j'DMllfligis^sj 
 
> f 
 
 : tm\ 
 
 n 
 
 If 
 
 i' 
 
 L>ll> 
 
 RMLITY ymSUS ROMANCR. 
 
 wliicli, tlioiii;]! inoiiiciitjiiy, licjirs repent in, i:; immy times 
 over, JiiKJ well I'epiiys the exer<'iHe of luilieiiec, tor 
 tlll'OU^il lliese I'it'is we ^'et u HlJl<;'nifieellt view of the 
 lovely hliie wjiter jilioNc, ii<)\viii<jj ('{iliuly and trnn(|nilly 
 onwai'd niitil it ei'jislies into tlie seelliinj;' iil>yss Itelow. 
 The puhn-henrini;' islinids in the distance I'oi'iii a pict- 
 uresque baekfi'i'ound to the snMiniely Ix'antil'nl scen(>. 
 While viewed in sunshiiie, the donhle zones of pi'is- 
 niutic colors t'orniecl in the snrav have a lo'illiancv com- 
 pared with whi<']i an ordinary i'aiid)ow is Itnt a faint 
 semblunce. Livinj^'stone, Haines, and ]Moln' liave each 
 in tni'ii miven theii* imi»ressions of the ^'ioto]'iu Falls. 
 The Uittei", a shrewd and keen ohservei-, writes: 
 
 " r will now ondeavoi' to nive a feel)le descri])tion of 
 tli(^ i;'reut cataract itself. The majestic ri\-ei', a mile 
 wide, conies doAvn from th<^ north-northwest, and ilin«;'s 
 its wat<'rs down four hundred feet into a rock>' ravine, 
 varvinji; in width from two liundr<'d and foi'tv to three 
 hundr(Ml 1'eet, which runs across its b(>d. From the 
 river altove the falls I'ise manv islands, all adorned 
 with the richest tro[>ical vegetation. The hanks avo 
 covered with vast but not deiise forests, in which occur 
 whole groups of tall-stemmed palms, giving a thor- 
 oughly southern character to the scenery. Near the 
 falls the water hurries along with flying speed, and 
 the long ribbons of foam overyAvhere to be seen make 
 it look as if it W(M'e boiling. Near the wostoru bank 
 lies a little island, about a Imnib'ed and twenty feet 
 from the l,>rink, and here the bod of th(^ stream seems 
 to di}) suddeidy, for tho water leajjs down with a roar 
 and a rush, like a huge sea-wave. At this point, (piit(» 
 at the easteru corner, a ridge of rock juts out, on to 
 
 w 
 
'INCH. 
 
 [M'iitiiii;' iiumy tinicK 
 -!<' (»!' lUllirlirc, tor 
 lifict'lll view of tlic 
 iiiilv Jiiid Irfiiiniiillv 
 'tliiiii;' jiltyss )»('l()\v. 
 
 IStilllCC t'olMII il pict- 
 
 I'ly In'mitiful scene. 
 
 iiMe Zones of pris- 
 
 \'t' a l»rilli;niey eoni- 
 
 l)ow is 1)iit a faint 
 
 \n\ ^lolir lia\-e each 
 
 llie A'ietoria Falls. 
 
 ver, Av riles: 
 
 I'elde <leseri))tion of 
 
 cslie ri\-ei-, ji niilo 
 
 )rt Invest, and llin,i;s 
 
 ito a rocky ravine, 
 
 ind foi-ty 1o llireo 
 
 s bed. From tiio 
 
 mds, all adoi'iied 
 
 The lianks aro 
 
 ts, ill -wliicli occur 
 
 s, giving- a tlior- 
 
 eiiery. Near tlio 
 
 living speed, and 
 
 to 1)0 seen make 
 
 tli(^ westorn hank 
 
 and twenty feet 
 
 tli(> stream scM^ms 
 
 down with a roar 
 
 t this point, quite 
 
 k juts out, on to 
 
 % 
 
 Wr. SOUND OF MANY IVATF.RS. 213 
 
 wliicli any one not suhject to giddiness can step, when 
 he will ha\e, on the left, the I'idI jiisl descrilx (1, and in 
 froid the long line of the givjit calaract, which cm of 
 
 cours dy I'c |»artially seen, foi' the conipresse(| air 
 
 di'.Mwn (l(»v n with the Hood ;ind lilled with drops of 
 water esca|>es continually and rises in eddies, produc- 
 ing the spray-clouds, which gleam like spectei-s fai' 
 ahove this great 'altar' of the waters. After looking 
 <lown for some time into this I'aging, leaping, foaming, 
 liia\ing chaos, deafened hy the ten'ihle noise of tlu) 
 niaddeiietl waters, and shaken hy the menacing howl 
 rising np continuously I'rom the depths, which seems 
 to pierce through hone ami mari'ow, one wond<'rs how 
 the rocks, those hard I'ihs of the earth, can withstand 
 the shock of such a mighty onset. 
 
 "After I had gazed at this glorious scene for some 
 time I hegan to feel stunne(l, and 1 went a hundi'cd 
 ])aces to the south in the dii-ectioii of our camp. Here 
 I was on rocky ground, within the sphe're of the si)ray 
 veil, and one moment was wrappeil in it as in a thick 
 fog, while the next it was suddenly rent asunder hy a 
 gust of wind, the most hrilliant suiil.'eams ])ouring 
 through the gaj>, succeeded, however, almost imniedi- 
 at«'ly hy a fi-esh shower of spray. 
 
 "Turning round on this sjiot with the faco to tlio 
 north, a singular impression is produced, for tlio ahyss 
 and the long line of clouds rising from the earth are 
 visilde, hut the Avaterfall is liidden hy the intervening 
 trees and hushes, 
 
 "Anxious to get a front vi«'W of the falls, I now 
 made my way through the forest — which may not in- 
 aptly he called the 'rain forest, ' its luxuriance being 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 11.25 
 
 Ui§2A 125 
 ■ 22 
 
 ■ 40 
 
 HMSH 
 
 1.4 tl.6 
 
 Hiotographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
11 
 
 ■l 
 
 i 
 
 ft 
 
 h 
 
 ' 
 
 214 
 
 REAUIY yt-RSLS ROMANCH. 
 
 the I'osiilt of poiitiiiual s1iow«m's of s]>rny — and found 
 the ground inark<'<l by the countless t'()()t|trii)ts of 
 clcpliaiits and buffaloi's, attracted, d(»ul»tless, hy the 
 c(»(»l luud-haths to be had here. 
 
 "The upper .side of the chasm, rnnniiis;- across tlie 
 lied of th«' stream, ends in a iM-ojectini;' shil» <>f i(»cK-, 
 and before us on tho east Hes the channel — iiere two 
 hun<h'ed and seventy feet wide — wliidi is tlie only out- 
 let for the whole volume of watei". Steppino- on to the 
 slal> of rock, and lookinji; to tho north-iKM'thwest, we 
 have a view of tho wiioli! lon<ij line of falls. .Vs the 
 river, owin^' to tho late rains, Avas still very nuicli 
 swollen, 1 saw them nnch'r vorv favorabh^ circum- 
 stances, for tho black rock-masses were almost eiitii'ely 
 liidden l)y the indescribal>Iy l)eautiful water draiteries, 
 the al»ru[>t naked rock-chasms only yawning' here and 
 there through the wliitt; veil of spray. AVhen 1 saw 
 the cataract, the first fall consisted of one lonu', uii- 
 l)roken, shinin<;', j>:r<'enish-l)lue wavo, which, as it sjied 
 on its farther course, resolved itself into ever finer, 
 whiter, and more delicatelv rounded <*loud-fornis. 
 
 "This is the i)oint from which tlu^ visitor can obtain 
 the <ir;mdest view of the incomjiarable \'ictoria Falls 
 of the Zandjesi. Befoi-e us we have the full .uloi'y of 
 the falling' mass of water, ever movinii', *'ver chaiiu- 
 in<i', blustei'in<;', foaminy. g'lowinu", shining', with small 
 green islands peeping over the veiy edge of the altyss, 
 and on the left and right, al)OVe and lielow, water, 
 water evei'vwhere, hurrying onward with a <'ontinu- 
 ous I'oai' hke thiuitloi'. In front of the falls, wliere the 
 waters from the west and east meet and embrace, hang 
 suspendi'd two double circular rainbows, unltrokeu by 
 
 III 
 
 Iw-- 
 
THH (jRi:.rr rissLRH. 
 
 '2U 
 
 any horizon, the nui^-ic lines ^lowinjj: in the l)rillijint 
 tropiciil sunlH'jiiMs, Idnc, yellow, and red sncc'eedini? 
 each otlici- in the ontcr, and red, yellow, and l»lne in 
 the innei' rinj;', ... 
 
 " Livingstone, who made his ohsei'vations with a 
 po<'lvet chronoineter, which showed the mean (Ireen- 
 wich time, <;ivi's the lonuitnde as l2.")° 45' p]. I place; 
 my observation t'orty-t'onr minntes of longitnde farther 
 east. 
 
 " Th(^ hei<jjht of the veil of spray which liovers ahove 
 the falls 1 measnred wil i a sextant and a hase-line 
 eqnal to .').')() feet; the ani^le a was fonntj at ^AP, which 
 gives for the opposite an<;,h> r^ the len^tU = (»">.).") feet; 
 add to this 400 feet dejitli of ahyss, and we have lO.").") 
 feet ascension, a resnlt ditl'crinii- only hy 40 feet from 
 that given by Baines. Of course the height varies 
 every day, ac<'oi'ding to the volnnie of water in the 
 river, the tenii)eratui'e, and the strength of the wind. . . . 
 
 "After the Zambesi has made its way through tlio 
 y>ass, two hundred an<l sev<'nty feet wide, it rolls on in 
 sinuous fashion, «lescri1ting three or four wide curves. 
 The bed is so narrow that its depth must ite enormous 
 to accommodate such a vast Nolume of watei'. Tho 
 banks consist of perpendicular rocks five hundred or 
 six hundred fei^t high, absolutely inaccessible to men, 
 though many baboons, which have taken uj* their 
 abode here, climb u]> and down tlu'in with ease," 
 
 I have to apologize foi- the accomi»anying photo- 
 graphic views of the falls, as they l)y no means conv<'y 
 the imjtression of grandeur ]»i'oduced on an eye-witness. 
 They are only "l)its," showing the water as it takes tho 
 leap clear of the rock into what — the reader must bo 
 
 ». 
 
t: 
 
 1 
 
 ■^ 
 
 J 
 
 
 1 
 f 
 
 
 j 
 
 H • 
 
 t 
 
 .1 
 
 ; % V 
 
 It I ; 
 13- I ' ■ 
 
 i !:ii* 
 
 ■4 
 
 ' 
 
 •jm 
 
 Kl .■11.11 Y I'FRSUS ROMASCr.. 
 
 Icl'l 1») ijiiiiuiiK", .'IS lli»' most ni<;>!:<Ml jmd iiiij»osiii<4' por- 
 tions ;irc so sliromlt'd in sprjiy tliiit llic iic^intivrs takoii 
 ji|>iiciii' iis ir '* li^lit stinirU," or '* fou <;■('( I," while it is not 
 in till' )Mt\vr)' ol' tin- caiiHi'.-i t(> ''shoot jn'ound coriioi's," 
 tht'rcforc cannot look o\fi- iht- hrink into tlic foiu" linii- 
 <li«'(l l'«;«'t of elijisJM hclow, wlici'i' the loaming watiTS 
 aiT tossed into billows of snowy whiteness, dasliiny; on 
 to the oir. let at the eastern l)ank. l''oi' many miles tho 
 e<ini'se of the Zamltesi helow the falls y,i<i/a,i;s in aeiitci 
 anules every few hundred yai'ds. 
 
 On llieL'4lh I walked down as far as the (ji-st lieiid, 
 aiioiit a mile and a hall' distant. 'I'his turn is most 
 alM'upl, the ii'oi'ii'e narrow, and the water very deep, 
 the suiTaee streaked with foam. lMn' left of tlie "J*i'o- 
 lile (Tllf" plioto represents the eastel'U exti'einity of 
 the falls, where the waters leave the miri'ow chasm 
 and continue theii* coiii'se towar<l the Indian Ocean. 
 While I'etui'uiiin' to camp I came across a lot of haboons 
 the size of eiiihl -year-old l>oys, l)Ut, heinj;" alone, ,uavo 
 them a wide hertli. 
 
 On the l'.")lh, thonuii loath to leave this enchanting 
 spot, we rolled up our hlankets and silently stole away; 
 liut not while my pulse heats shall I foi'u'et the experi- 
 ence of thes(> three days, ^losalane was on hand to 
 ferry us over, and invited us to his village to see his 
 peo|ile. We I'ollowed him, and under a l»i,n' tree in th(^ 
 vicinit)' of his compound set about pi'epai'inu' breakfast. 
 We were houoi'ed liy a visit fi'om foui' of his wi\es, 
 V. ho brought us meal and Kafiir beer: we pai'ticulai'ly 
 apj»reciated the latter, for we wen; very thirsty. Tho 
 day passed rather weai'ily. Ix^inu" besieucd by mitives 
 from morning till night. 1 wua mortitied to discover 
 
 1, 
 
Il- 
 l's 
 
 »u 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 
 ». 
 
 ■, I 
 
 : 1 
 
 ^'r.jt.c'a-t.h' 
 
 nttiiaiTtrriTf 
 
n 
 
 i\ 
 
 i I 
 
 f: 
 
 1: 'I 
 
 ) '. 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
IN li.-iTOK.IUISD. 
 
 217 
 
 tluit tlio cliicf oltjcct of Arosatjiiw's iiivitinj? lis to liis 
 villaj;*! was that li«' iiiiulil Im-uj from us whut«'V«'r lio set 
 eyes on. He <li<l not ^ct anytliinjj:, all the same, r'xccpt 
 what In* ^iw'i} us an «'(|nivalt'nt for. One soon jjjt'ts sick 
 ot tlu'so people wlirn finding that it is an utter impos- 
 sibility for thejn to show a sin<;;lo (lisinter(^ste<l act of 
 kimlness: he their i»resent ^n'eat or small, they without 
 <'Xce[)tion jj;et ani;:ry if they do not receiv«^ a <h>al more 
 than its value in return. Seldom, if ever, Iwve I seen 
 an exception to this. 
 
 We observed that th(* tril)al mark of the ^Fatoka is 
 the absences of tlie two upper central incisoi-s, these 
 beinjjj removed in early life. Tin' custom, thouj^h a 
 pei'sonal disfiy:ur<'ment, is universal. Mosataiie reven^s 
 the name of Livin,i:;stone, with whom he had made 
 uiany h)ng joui-neys, and tells numerous stories con- 
 oernin<j^ him, Imt all in the hiuhest praise of the ^reat 
 explorer. At Seslu'ke we met tw<> old nu^ii, ;^^akumbu 
 and Kataii, who also claimed t<> liave l)een in the ser- 
 vice of Livini;stone; they vied with each otliei' in 
 extollin,!^ his chai'acter, and a[)parently recalled the 
 memory of the years spent in his service with j;Teat 
 jiK'asure. 
 
 In the early morniuf?, after a cup of cotlt'ee, we were 
 onc«» more afoot; but in an hour or two fever be,i;au 
 to assert itself on m?, and I stru<;'<:led alonij; with an 
 aching' and throl)bin,u' head, vrhile my mouth l)ecame 
 so jcirched and (hy that I felt as thouu'h tlu^ mucous 
 meml)ran(^ would stri}* off if T closed my lijis. Wci 
 rested for three liours at noon, and marched a<i:ain 
 until eveninu", coveriuij: about twenty-five miles. We 
 lay down I'or the ni^ht m-ar a pool of water, but mos- 
 
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 RE/ll.riY niRSLS ROM^NCR. 
 
 quitocs wci'c tlici't' ill iiiillioiis, iiml slcfp wjis impossi- 
 ble. At (liiyhrejik, lor wliicli \vt> li;nl 1oii,^:»m1, I sli'u^'«;l('(l 
 to luy tVot ajjfaiii, still wry I'cvcrish, but iiiaiiji<r<Ml to 
 do iiiiotlii'i- twenty miles, wliicli l»rou«;lit us to the plaeo 
 where we had left (Hir canoe. In two and a hall' hours 
 we Were at Kaziiii,i;ula a^ain. 
 
 For tJM' past two days I have eaten nothing; and dono 
 a j;ood bit of traiiii>iii^', an<l now feel much inclined to 
 \i^o to bed for a week. The Journey to the falls ami 
 l»ack has been a tryiiii;' one, liut we were more than 
 repaid for the trouble, and with the aid of ^ladanie 
 Jalla's unremitting^ kindness J hope to l>e soon all ri«i;ht 
 aicain. 
 
 February l28tli. I feel very much 1 tetter, only that 
 the twenty-five to thirty-grain doses of (luinine make 
 my eai's ring" unpleasantly, and I can hear nothing else. 
 But what is to be the next move I I cannot delay long 
 lu're. No other way seems open but to cross the Kala- 
 hari Desert, visit Khama's town and see what an Afri- 
 can townshii) is like under a Christian native king (for 
 I have seen enough of the other sort); then from Ba- 
 mangwato to strike north through .Mashonaland and 
 reach my goal, the Lakes, in some way, not yet very 
 clear to me. But, believing it to be possible, I will 
 make the attempt. 
 
 I crossed the river to the west bank to interview two 
 English hunters who are waiting for an answer from 
 licwanika to th(» request for permission to hunt ele- 
 l>hants in his country. I found them very short of 
 trade stulf, of which I have a good su[»i>ly. They hav- 
 ing a bullock-cart and oxen Avith two Colony drivei's, 
 whom I had the option of engaging, business was speed- 
 
/'A7:/'.-//\.//7c).V.V I- OK CKOSSINi, THU DI.SI.KI. 
 
 -IW) 
 
 ily aiTJiiipMl to our imituul satisfaction; and thus, most 
 uucxiH'ctoilIy, ways and means for transport an- onct^ 
 nior«' [d'ovidcd. TIh' ox»'n ai'c kept siMUf tm miles dis- 
 tant from liciv, l»cyond the "Ily" lirlt that skirts the 
 west bank of the Zamhcsi, and thcv can onlv conic in 
 lici'c at nij;:ht, when the tsetse is supposed not to I'ite. 
 They are sent for and will he hen* hy ten o'clock, when 
 I load up and start without delay. 
 
 y\\ i,^oods are already across the di'ift, and in the 
 ev«'nin^ I say utiod-lty to Monsieur and Madame ,lalla, 
 
 w 
 
 ho have Ik'CII the essence of kindness t<» me 
 
 Tl 
 
 Hi 
 
 time spent with them and my expci'ience at Kazumj;ulii 
 have lieen on a j»ar with the fellowshii» and hos|>ilality 
 1 enjoyed at the othei" stations of the French Zand>esi 
 mission, whi<'h is sayinj^ a ^ood deal. At 11 VM. the 
 l)a,ir,u:;'^^«' i>< idl aboard the cart, drawn l»y a span ol' 1 wei\t< 
 oxen. It is oil' at full speed, whicli is al)out the rale of 
 a "Trades i'rocession " or a " Lord-Mayor's Show"; Itut 
 tliev will li-et Itevond "the llv" l»el'ore davliii'lit. 
 
 1 Spent the ni,<;iit in the Kii,i;iish men's cami), and next 
 morninif, after a shai'}» walk, reached Leshuma, where 
 tho oxen were ()uts[»anne<l await in.i;' my ai-rivai. At 
 this place Monsieur and Madame ("oillard iiad to <'ami) 
 for over a year, Avaitiui;- for the (h'cision of Lewanika 
 as to whether they were to l)e allowed an entrance into 
 the Barotse Valley or not. At leu,iith their request was 
 grante(l; hut it nuist have been a weary time for them, 
 the district is so lonely, wild, and dreary. Xearl)y is ji 
 solitary iji-ave of a Swede' named Oswald Bagger, who 
 died here of fever in 1<S78. 
 
 After having lunch we trekked until D p.m., when wo 
 outs[)anned for the night. On ir^vAw to '*;nidaiiiatenka, 
 
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 RHAUTY ir.RSLS ROM.IKCr.. 
 
 wIu'I'i' m'c t;ik(' on .-m oxMi'ii spiiii of ox«'ii. This |»lii<'t' 
 is »»r soiiif iiilfi.'st, cspcciiilly to lioiiuili ( 'ntliolics, Irom 
 lln' t'iicl t lint ;il»oiil cij^lit vcjii's iin'o ihr .Irsuits sm! iij) 
 Ji ItJlIld of " Fiitlicrs" ;iii(l " Hl-otlirrs" to oru'illli/t' ;i Miis- 
 simi stiilioii ln'i"»'. TIu'V Ii.hI iiitriidt'd scltliiii;' in llx' 
 I'jirotsc \';ill('y, ItUt fiilcl'iliu- the i'oiiiit|-y \vitlM»llt lii-sl 
 olitainiii.u' I lit' kiiiu's jiiTiiiission so iiic»'iisr<l jiim ii;;iiiiist 
 tiii'iii tliiit lie ordered tln'iii li;irj< t'ortliwitli. I'iindaiiia- 
 t<'nl\ii Ix'iiij;,' a sort of iiciitral uroiiiid bctwct'ii l\liaiiia, 
 liolx'ii^ida, and I^fWanika, tliry dfcidt'd to l»nild nnd»'i' 
 tlir [>atrona,i;«' of (i. \Vt'stl»('arli, a tradci', whose station 
 it was. Their (hveilinn-honse an<l elinreh still stand, 
 the latter (see foi-cu'Nund of iJlnsti'ation) now ntilized 
 as a staitle. The doors ami window-fi'.inies that remain 
 i»ear evidenet! of the skilled workmen they mnst have 
 had with them; Itnt their mission was a faihu'e, tht^ 
 parly Ix-ini;' too laruc and their <'(|ui[>ment altogether 
 too «'lahorate and extensive eonipai'e<l with theii- very 
 limited laiowle(l<;-e of the eonntry and jieople. By hit- 
 tor experienee tlx'y learned that in sneh work "the 
 raee is not to the swift, nor the hattle to the stroni;." 
 ►Soon after their advent, ;ind ere they had well he,i;un 
 their mission, one of the IJrothers died, a Father was 
 drowne(l on his wav to the vallev, the othei's n'ot dis- 
 heartened, and the mission was broken nj). Kveii 
 those who escaped fi'oni I*an<laniatenka fell vietims to 
 fever elsewhei'e, AVestheaeli, too, is dead, and his trad- 
 in<;-store stands emi)ty. The present ocenpants of tlio 
 plaee are two half-brivd hunters with a few bushmen. 
 Here we found live heaps of stones, marking- the last 
 resting-places of Jolly, C'owley, Bairn, Baldwin, and 
 Lowe — Europeans who succumbed to malarial fever. 
 
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 11 
 
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 A ROI.CjH TIMR. 
 
 221 
 
 Wo lind boon fold that nt tins ulaco corn ;infl voijotii- 
 1»l»'s were (MiltiviittMl in ahnndiiiirf, iin<l that uo slionM 
 lie altlf to put in a snpply for tlic jonni'V ; laif Wf wtro 
 contontcil with a limited jtMiTliasf, jis tiicy diarix*'*! iis 
 at tln' I'atf of tlii'cf j»onn<ls [mm' Itai;; for corn and tA«> 
 sliillinus cacli for vci-y poor pntnpUins. 
 
 We trcivkod oarly on tlio .'itli of March, the spare ox^n 
 (h'ivt'ii Wchin<l hy <»ur KalHirs. Th*' ih'xI three days' 
 i(nn"n«'V was tin-onuh I'onuh coiuitrv — cither rockv lieh?< 
 of wooiUand, with stones and stinnps that ahnosi shook 
 the cai't to jtieccs, (ti" o\er nnles of swamp with Mack 
 nuid and water np to the axle. On Tuesday cveniiiix, 
 fcclinix vei'v '"lihie," and conscions of an approaidiiiiy: 
 attatdv of fever, I was sitting' in the cart holdini? my 
 achinii: head between my hands, when the 'Slessel- 
 liooni" <;a\'e way with a crash, and we wei-e thrown 
 forward on the road, pnttini;; a period to our journey 
 foi- that niji'ht, so avc camped whei-(> we were, IJnt Ity 
 tile time [ coiUd j;'('t out my blanket ami lie down at 
 tlie foot of a tree the fever liad me in full foi'ce; thn 
 live-lon<; niiA'ht my iiead felt as if it would burst — skin 
 hot nud parched, temperatui'c KXi^ F. Several times 
 durinix the weary hours of darkness slii^ht showers 
 of rain fell, and althonj::h I had no shelter I wished it 
 would conio lieavily ami cool me a bit. Xear mornini; 
 ])erspiriition broke out jjrofusely and I was i-elieved. I 
 took Ji (!Up of coffee, and thought T was better and i^ot 
 up, anxious to soo to the repairing' of the cart. The 
 drivers brou<;-ht in a small tree they had cut down, and 
 were just commeneinii; to hew it into shai>e, wiien T felt 
 a sudden chill, ae('om}»anied by faintn<'ss, compellini:: 
 nie to lie down ayiain. ISu<;h a lit of a<;UL> and fever fol- 
 
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 RI-.^IITY rr.RSLS ROMASCH. 
 
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 lowed Jis I liJivo seen in others l)iit never until now ox- 
 perieneetl, voinitinu' until my eyes were Idoodsliol, shak- 
 ing;' until I had to hold hy the root of a l>ush to steady 
 myself, cold and bloodless, althouyli now the sun was 
 hi.yh and the thennojnetei" J"ei2,istei'ed lOIP F. in the 
 shade. i>y eveninii; the lunv dessel-hooni was t'ldshed 
 and we trekked again. 1 was Just aMe to - rawl i.ifo 
 the cart, hut for the next two davs eould not eat a 
 mouthful, only drink water — and yueli water! hraekisli 
 and muddy. 
 
 To-day, the 12th, liowevcM-, 1 am, thank (Jod, feelini;' 
 very nmeli better. This is fortunate, for we ai'e nevei* 
 sure that thore are no lions lurking in the iieighhor- 
 liood when we li(> down for the night. Here, and along 
 oni- route for tiie next eight days, thc^y abound. Last 
 night they roared and gi'owltMl within lifty paces of 
 oui- eanij), trying to stampede the oxen, /riien^ was, of 
 <'ou)'se, no rest for eitliei- the drivers oi" myself, as we 
 had to keep guard, rille in hand, expecting an attack 
 every minute. We met tlu; annual transport wagons, 
 thri'e in luunber, bound foi- the Zambesi with supplies 
 for the missionaries. The condu<'tor told me that this 
 morning, the lions, in s^tite of I.»ig lires, <logs, and guns, 
 attacked his oxen, and lacerated one so badly that it 
 hatl to be killed, while two bore ugly claw wounds. 
 Four dogs W(>nt after them, but one, the biggest and 
 bravest, never returned, so we shall have to keep a 
 sharp lookout now. 
 
 I am making no attemi)t at wi'iting a daily journal 
 during this trip. One day is so like another that ther*^ 
 is seldom an event worthy of record. The i)rograni of 
 an ordinary dav is verv much thus: At the lirst red- 
 
I ill 
 
 PROGRAM OF A D.IY. 
 
 «)0'> 
 
 tloniiijij of tlie sky, about an lionr lict'oro sunrise, thf liro 
 is stinvd up and the kettle put on; iii«>auM'hile mats 
 and blankets i\\\> stowed away, the "voiujo" (water- 
 kei:;) filled, if we are fortunate eiiouuii to be near a 
 "vley" (iM^ol), eookiui;' utensils eolleeleil and |>aeked, 
 Tlie oxen ai'(! being inspaniKMl, and by this time eotVee is 
 
 readv, whieii we swallow with a 
 
 bit 
 
 ol hrea( 
 
 I 1 
 
 )aKe(| 
 
 the ashes or a hollowed-out aiit-liill. The louiA' whi|>s 
 
 ai'e ei'aeked, the woi'd " ti'i'k 
 
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 hout 
 
 aiK 
 
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 le oxen 
 
 movt! on; and now for five oi' six lioui's we Inmbei" 
 aloiii;', throu.uii the deej) sand, ron,i;h I'ock, or swampy 
 ji;round, throu.u'li belts of mo[)ani foi-cst, and on tliron^h 
 vast sti'etehes of thorny bush armed with spikes like 
 i^rapjdini;' hooks. By 10 a.m. we i)robably reach wali'i', 
 where wi^ outspan an<l rest dui'ini;' the heat of tii<' <lay. 
 ins[»anniu,i;" at three or four in the afternoon ami uoiii^ 
 on till nine, when wci l)ivouae for the ni^ht. The oxra 
 are made fast \>y rriiiis to the ti'ek-ehain; andat'tei' sup- 
 per we eai'h seek the lee side of a bush or a clump o!' 
 ^•rass, spread our mat under the starry sky, and wrap 
 up for a few hours' repose. 
 
 While this routine niav be taken as the I'ule, it is bv 
 
 no means without many excei>tioiu 
 
 At til 
 
 lies, for t wo 
 
 whole days W(> will fin<l no watei', either for ourselves 
 or the eattl(>, necessitatiii!;' k»ni;' treks. When abiuit 
 lialf-way aei'oss the desert the oxen were inspaniicil 
 for twelve hours, jaishini;' on to a spot where we ex- 
 pected to find a vley, l)ut which, when we i'(>achetl it, 
 was almost (b'y. AVe had to collect a little from the 
 lioles made by the feet of ,u'anie, but it was so thick aii<l 
 of such a vile odor that we could not swallow it. One 
 of the drivers took a mouthful, and suffered all dav in 
 
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 224 
 
 lULILilY ll.USHS ROMANCR. 
 
 <'ons('(iiUMiPo. Th(» poor Ix'asts su<*k(Ml tlio riiud, rofusod 
 1(> ^Tii/c, loitering- iii'ouiKl the \V!i<;;()n, jiiul (luriujj: llio 
 iii,i;lit li('k(Ml the liroad iron tires of the wheels to eool 
 
 their toiijiues. 
 
 IMave<l out, we <MHil(l "-o IK) farther 
 
 without ii rest; hut ahout two o'clock in the iu()rirni«i; 
 (now the third day of our thii'st) W(i iusi)anned a,i;aiu, 
 and dra^x*'<l wearily on, ahnost at the j'aintiui;' point 
 Tor houi's, when, just as the first rays of the sun shot 
 across the arid plain, we descried in tlu^ distance what 
 appeared t<) he a small lake, .ulisteninj;" likt^ l>ui"nishe(| 
 silver. The oxen seemed to scent watei' in the air, and, 
 niustei'in^' their waniuji,' ener,i;ies, re(loul)le(l tlieii' s[)eed, 
 and in an houi' \ve reached the lake, cattle and men 
 l>lnn,<;in,i;' into it with a, mad rush, lint our joy Avas 
 short li\'ed; the pool' animals moane<l their disap[>oint- 
 nieid, the drivers' faces were j>ictures of despair. How 
 I looked [ don't know, l)ut how 1 Icit may he ima<;ined. 
 Ft was a salt "pan" (lake), and the water a hitter bi'ine. 
 Slowly and sadly we turiie<l ai'ouiul, uttei'ly disheai'l- 
 ened, and went on foi" two hours more, when we came 
 upon ai deep well contaiuiui;' sevei'al f<'et <)r muddy — 
 hut oh, so precious — sweet water. Ilow fondly we 
 sipix'd it! And with l)U<-kets we drew enouj^li for the 
 oxen, havin.i; to use the whips vii;'oi'ously to keep oil" 
 the herd while each one had its turn. 
 
 AVe reste(l foi- tweuty-four lioui's so as to <;-ive tliem 
 a chance to pick u}). Two oxen sulTeriuij;" from luui;" 
 sickuess had heen left on thci road to follow as hest 
 they could with tlu* spare span. One uiust have lin- 
 p-red behind and fallen a pi'ey to lions, as we never saw 
 liim aj;ain; tlio otiier wo allot, and used such portions 
 
MASARIVA. 
 
 •225 
 
 of the flesh as wo thoiijj;ht sul'o. Wo woro not over 
 iii(;o about it, as for twf) weeks we had biHMi witliout 
 fresh meat, liaviii*;' seen no icnnie ex<*(>pt an occasional 
 jjfuinea-fowl, altliouj^h we saw a ureal many fresh spoor 
 of alnK)st every kind of antelope, elejdiant, /el)i'a, nir- 
 affe, hartel»eest,et('., l>iit mostly crossing,' our ti'aek, ,i;'oin,i; 
 north and south. I sighted several lloeks of osti'iehes, 
 an<l suoeeodi'd in knoekin.n' over two at loii^ ran.ue. 
 They wei'(^ veiy wild, and without a horse it is dillleult 
 to hunt them. In eacii ease' they «^ot ui> and disaj)- 
 pearod in tli<^ l)usli, hut were found dea<l next day by 
 th«^busiunen,whobrou,i::ht mesev<'ral handsome feathers 
 — th(^ only tro[)hies I i»ossess of ostrieh-huntin*;'. 
 
 Kvery few days we meet with small bands of thest^ 
 bnshmen (Masarwa) in the most uidikely and unex- 
 pe<'te<l i)la('es. They are wild children of the desert, 
 honiel(?ss wanderers, and pigmies in stature; durinu; 
 the rainy season of a dirty yellow color, at other times 
 hard to tell. Tlioy are spindle-shaid«'d, and possess 
 '% abdomens entirely disprojtortioned to their diminu' vt* 
 size. These (jueei' littU' peoi>le speak a lan,i;'ua,i;'e so 
 l»arbai"ous, with its perpetual click, click, click, that no 
 Avhit(i man has l)een able to ac(piiro it. Many of them 
 
 are veritable caricatures of the creatures man. 
 
 ,11 arm- 
 
 ful of reeds or a cave provides all the shelter they rver 
 know; they own no herds, cultivates no fields, but sub- 
 sist U[)on the uani(% edibhi roots or bull)S, the larva' of 
 
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 liite ants, ""nisshopiiers, and worms that thev find in 
 
 ■1 n* 
 
 their familiar domains. l>ut this creature, insiunillcant 
 thouuli he looks, is more than a match for the most 
 formidabk! wild animal that roums the forest or plain. 
 
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 11 
 
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 Kl.tlllY l'll<\;:s ,VU,W//A/c,7:. 
 
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 III till' cllilSC lie IlilS (M) |i<MT ill ;i|iy trilic ill AlVii'.'l, illnl 
 
 kii()\\> Ix'Hcr tlijiii ;iiiy diIjim' Iiow ti» ol.t.'iin ;iii'l |ii"<'|);ii'i' 
 iiiD^t \'inil('iit .'iii'l |)i'i>iii|il ly l;il;i| | n »i -( iiis ui I li wliicli to 
 siiK'iir the sliiir|» ji'iiiils (if his tiny ;in-o\\>, wliil.' his 
 siii;i!l .-i/i' nii'l I'.it-liki- iih)\'i'1imiiI > in t hi- -i"''i>-^ 'H"''!'' 
 him t(» ii|t|»i'(»;ii'h to within ;i >hoi't i|i>t;iii<-i' of hi- pi'i-y, 
 iiii-'i'i'ii. 
 
 I h.-nl ;iii ()|>|)ortiiiiity hist ni-jht of olisi'r\'iiiLi- the 
 <rr<'ct of thi'ir |M)isoiii'(l shiil'ts, ;iii(| ;il>o th'ir Mioi|.' ot' 
 hunt i 1 1-''. .\ lit t If fi'llow riiiiii' to oiif cjiiiii) to !)(•"_;■ suit. 
 W'liil" ti-yiii'j- to t;ilk with him tlii-oiiL:h one o|' tln' 
 <li'i\cfs, h<' siiij'ji'iily iii'M ii|) his hiiiKJ ;ini| iiioiioni'"! 
 us to lir sih'iit. lie sIiiiil;' till' (|ni\t'r with his ;in-iiws 
 o\cr his shoiiMfP, ;i!ii|, L;r;is|iiii'.:' Iii< tiny how, i.'li'l''<i 
 swil'tly off into tln' L:r;iss in ;i stoopiim' |io>tiii'f. I.ook- 
 iiiu' in the <lir>'i'tion on which Ik- sfcmcrl It.'nt, wt- s;iw 
 ;it ;i loiiL'; <list;inci' the IicjkIs ;iii(| n^cks of two u'ii';ifffS 
 .•i|i|M';ii'iii;;- ill tli<' iiin-k'_:roiini| of ;in ;;nl-hill. Iii;i xi-ry 
 short timi' the •■nniiiiiu' hiinliT h;i<l ;^ot within ;i f<'W 
 yjinis of thcin, still iiiiohsriwi'il : (ittini;' .'in jin'ow to 
 his liow-st rinu. in .mh iiist;int he lunl ;iiiiiii| ;it .'iii'l hit 
 tljf l;ii'L;<'r of lii'' two. Till' ;inim;il '.r;i\i' ;i friL;'hl fiicij 
 .iiiin|» iiml leisurely wiilkeij ;iw;iy, the l.ii>liiii;in ri'tiirn- 
 iiiu' iis stejilt hily ;is he went. On e\|ii-cssiirj,' our sur- 
 prise Hint he h;ii| not folioweij iip the i:;ini", he in the 
 eooiest iiiJiiiiier possilih' jiskeij, '' Why slioiiM I (lri\'(i 
 the ine.'il ;iw;iy .'" jiiid n.-i'iNcIs' reiiijirkeij, " It will not, 
 .1:0 fjir." Xor wiis his eonrnleiiee in the wejipon tiiis- 
 
 |tl;iee(|, as we |)l'o\-e(| Ity the e,\'ee|jcnt liilMCfe steaks we 
 
 l.atj for hreakt'ast next morniiiL;'. TIp' litth' hiiiiter 
 soinewliut reliielanti}' [tjirted with his intcrestin,;.'; wea|)- 
 
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 KIIAMA. 'IIM I "I |1\MA\(,\VA I'l 
 
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POISONhD ^RROH,-s. 
 
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 oils, ill oxchaiige for u tea('iii>f'iil of salf .n,l fi ""i 
 
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 CHAPTEK XL 
 
 FROM PALACHWE TO FORT MCTORIA. 
 
 Palaeliwo. — A torrihlo oiiidpinic. — ^Inlnria. — Sonii-fivilizition. — Pliysio- 
 ally losing; >;i'oun<i. — Kliama and liis (■oiintry. — Total j.'.oliil>itioii. — Tlio 
 Maiitfwato as a race. — Makalakas. — Darkt'i' pliMSfs dl' African life. — 
 McKcnzii' anil ]I('i»tnini. — The Matcliclc. — On the trek af^ain. — My West 
 Indians return. — A niunotonoiis landsfapc. — Fort Matdoutsic. — Jlycnas 
 and .jacdials. — Miilliini in jKirrn. — Tuli townsliip. — " Show youi' iia-is]iort.'' 
 — A licensed prosi^'ctor. — Mealies and lunnpkins. — Lnheni^ula's inijiis. — 
 llatipi's ki'aal. — Whiskey sliojis. — Syndicates "dead broke." — White 
 men's j^raves. — " l'i'o\idential I'ass."— A tragic story. — Zinil)al)\ve. — An 
 ancient stroni'hold. — Fort N'ictoi'ia. — A hundred miles of sand. 
 
 ^T'^IIE journey across tlio Kalahari Dosort puts tlio 
 X strength and on(hu'an('e of l>oth man and beast to 
 tlio sev«?rest test; ])ut on the oOtli of March we reached 
 Palachwe, the principal town of the ^Fanjiwati*, hav- 
 ing;' been just four Aveeks on the road. Wo feel very 
 thankful, too, when we renieinl)Gr the many broken 
 waijons, shattered wheels and dessel-boonis we passed 
 on the way, tellin,u: of loiii;' (U'lays and great trouble to 
 others who had attempted the journey under less faA'or- 
 abl(> circumstances. It is nothing rare for travelers 
 to 1)(* d(>layed for months in tlio middle of the desert 
 by flooded swamps, oxen dying, or wagons hopelessly 
 broken down, and obliged to S(>nd back for assistance^ 
 Yet A\e are here, with a measure of fair health and 
 strength (with the exception of a troublesome cough 
 
 228 
 
A Ti-.RRini.E irini:Mic. 
 
 '1'1\) 
 
 whi<'h annoys nic niiu-li, an<l seems eonio to stay), in 
 u senii-civili/e<l eountry umler the good eliier Kliania. 
 "SVe outspanned in front of Messrs. lilaeklteanl nr(>s.' 
 trading; station, wJM're we are invited to stay for a 
 ('oui>le of weeks, until ai'ran,i;enients are made for our 
 next mov'\ \vlii<'li must l»e nortiiward. 
 
 March IJlst. I was called this mornin;j: to soo Khama, 
 his wife, and chihl (the child died th«5 followin<:: day), 
 who were all three down with fever. Not oidy they, 
 l)ut, as tlio chief tells me, fully half the natives aro 
 stricken with a bad type of malarial fever, which has 
 assumed the form of an oi»idemic, an averauc of iifteen 
 succund)in<;: to the disease <laily; wliile I am informed 
 that since the year l>ej»;an, close upon three thousand 
 of Khama's suhjeets liave Iummi cut otT. He seems 
 gnatly distressed about it, iniplorinj^: ii»«' to remain 
 for a few Aveeks and render what medical aid I can to 
 the surt'erers, for this tide of death threatens to (k^ci- 
 mate the tribe. The night is made liideous by the 
 gruesome cries of the hy' -s as they join in the car- 
 nage among the many u X bodies but partially in- 
 terred in the sand of the plain. 
 
 A very eursorv glance at the situation of the town is 
 suflRcient to reveal the cause of its being so unhealthy, 
 although it is the new town of the Mangwato, and 
 only laid out m the hitter part of 1889 (Shoshong, their 
 old settlement, sixty or seventy miles south, having be- 
 come untenable from lack of water). Palaclnve occu- 
 pies a valley at the l)ase and west of the f'hupoiig Hills, 
 and cov(>rs an area of som** sixteen square miles, with 
 a population of say fifteen thousand people, compos(vl 
 of a nundx'r of villages in chnrge of sub-chiefs. The 
 

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 ill 
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 >' 
 
 t! 
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 2:\() 
 
 NI./II.ITY ^liRSlJS HOM/INCn. 
 
 hiifs in tli('S(' "stunts" (villji^r.^s) jnv l.nilt in (.|rc|..s, 
 with }i Htiinll Ickliollilfi in tli.- ('.ntcr. TIk- soil is 
 fojirsc, (|cc|» sfuifl, ulii'fj.Ml \c|iir|.s sinkin;; l(» ii »I<|,||| 
 <u IVoni six ihflM'S to ii foot on tlii- rojids in tin- town, 
 Mu\ for niijf's jiconn<l, ^ i;if<l"'ninL;' is iMi|>ossiMc uithont 
 con-tjint iiitili<-i;il irri^.-ilion. uliidi tlif n;iti\cs (|o not 
 scon I lo nn<l<rsf;inil oc ciicf to In- liotlnri'il with. sr. i imt 
 thfi liind in .-iimI .•h-oiukI th<- "st;i;it<" ivniains iis it h;is 
 ever hifn — nnhrokcn nhll. \or <lo<'s tlif chief iipprovt' 
 of <!V('n cMtfinj,' down the snjMTlhious l»nsh or trees; 
 coiise(|nentIy the fetid, foni jiir from the excrement .-ind 
 refnse of the chister of hilts h;iii;,'s jii'onnd the dwelj- 
 
 inj^'S, the Unde|-^M'(»wth pl-eventimr the fre<. Jieeess of 
 
 fresh air. Siinitiiry i-etrnhdions there are none, and 
 })Ut few ef)mfortal»ie dwellings th;it mi'jht in some way 
 he iniide to conform to the ohservancc of laws wliieh 
 we consider condncive to lieaith. No wjiite man can 
 own Ji foot of land in Khaina's conntiy, noi- erect a 
 S(|n!ire honse, except liy his special permission, and 
 even then the chief claims it as his property; s(» that 
 temporary residents h;ive to content themselves, as a, 
 iMtle, with Jiative liiits of the vej-y poorest construction. 
 J^•lreIy can they he trnthfnily called waterproof, and 
 are iif)t to he compjired in .-iny way with those of tlir» 
 .Miirotsi. The 7-esidt is, at the close of the rainy sejison 
 the nrass tlnitcii h.'is hecome soal<in<^ wet and rots, 
 when it is little hettei- than a reekinj^ (hin^heap, nnder 
 wliicli the nii,dit at h-ast must l)e spent, inhalin<< the 
 noxious vapors, that j^o far t*) produ<'e the annu^d at- 
 tacks of fever, which every white man seenis to expect 
 as a matter of course. A^^iin, in almost any piirt of 
 this extensiv*! flat it is unnecessary to dij^ (nore than 
 
Kiini.rs TOH's. 
 
 L';:i 
 
 Ilii-"'i' or fdiir I'ft-t ln'luw llif >iii-r;i<M' fo (iiir| wati'i'. .-iii<l 
 ill iii;iii> pliK't'S it liiv^ III :jrf. 'ii >tiiL''ii;iiil |i<to|>, ;,'iviii;,' 
 oil' ;iii olTfir-ivf ••llliiviji, |i;irt i'-iil;irly nt ni'jiil. 
 
 TIk' ollifijiN .'iii<l ti;i<l''!'s .ire olili'.'i'l to .>f|i"i soiin' 
 iiiil»'> to olit.'iiii Wiitcr I'or i|otr,i'-t i'- |iiir|io-(s. wliidi is 
 hroii'jlit to tlif town ill iron t.iiik- inoiinti'il on uic/on*. 
 
 No olii' Ijrcil 1m' >l|||»l'i^''l lli;il l'"\i'r IIIJlKi'S >H<'|| |M\;|^<'S 
 
 ill l\li;ini;r- town oi' tji'' .\l;iii'.rw ;ito. lloW''\ii'. Ih'I'' it 
 is, iin<l, tlioiiLili not t'l'flinn ox.'i- hriiilit. ~iil'r''riii'_' irom u 
 sli;ir|i ;it t.wk of l)roiiciriti>- t Ip- i-i'-iili of t hi- iii;iiiy .-Ih'I- 
 t«'fl's- ni'jlits (Ml till' <l;iiM|i L'loiiiiil in tin- l\,il;i|iiii'i - I 
 inii-t <lo \sli;it I ciiii for tin' niiiiiy |i;it i'lit s. who ;ilrf;i<ly 
 Id'Liiii to I'oni'' or sf'ti"! lor IpIj) on lifjiriiin' thfit u <lorior 
 lijis ;irri v<'i| ;iiiion'j; t Jn'tii. 
 
 I';il;ic|iwi' clcri\fs its ii;ini<' from tli<' /."/'/"' in tli'' 
 \'i<'inity. '• .MjiiiLiunto "' rcf-'i'- to tlii' t rilx', ;iiiil ''iJii- 
 in.-inuw.ito" to till- country of il;i' triln-, wlifi<'\ ^r it 
 tiii;'.iit lofjit"'. In tiic cfnii |- of tli" town (I';il;if|iwc) is 
 sitii;it'-(| tiji' lic;i<l<|ii;irt<rs <.f \\\*- I5<'c|iii;inii Tr.'niin'j' As- 
 soi'i;ition, iiii'lrr tli<' iiijinji'ji'ini'iit of Mi'. (Jilloril. well 
 ;iimI f;i\'or;il)ly known in l.;i ( 'lijiiull'- in the < ';iii;iili;iii 
 Xorthwf>t. Within ji hiiii<lr''(| y;iriU of th'- r>'-<'hii;inii. 
 'I'r.'i'lin:^' .\s>oci;it ion |ir«Miiisf- ,-t;i!i(U t h«' hut w hi<"ii (hx-s 
 <liity for ,'i itost-oflicc. ;ini| ;icro>- ili'' ro.nl ;i t''|i''^r;i|'li 
 s1;itioii ; th<' liii'' hi-iiiLi' now o|..'ii riii'ht tiiron-jii to Sjilis- 
 hiiry |ihi<'"'s .M;ishoiiiihiii<l in t<'l.'<_rr;i])hic •■oininiiiiicat i(;ti 
 witii the outer world. 
 
 I was callefl on th<' !Mh to sec a yoiin*/ man who had 
 lalleii in front of and was run o\'cr Iiy his waLi'on. siis- 
 tainiiiL'" a conijioiind fracture of \\\r Jrnno-. I fear it 
 Avill he a had rase, as he cannot Ih- |)ersiiaded that it. 
 will Ix; necessary for iiim l(j remain qiiief oii his hack 
 
 HI 
 
 ii'" 
 
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I* «! 
 
 n 
 
 L 
 
 o;|0 
 
 Kl IIIIY IIRSUS ROM/INCH. 
 
 for st'Vt'i'iil Wffks. ! will iittt'iid liiiii «'los<'ly, ninl liopo 
 tli.-it iiiiioii iiiiiy tiikt' pl.MM' Ix't'oi-f 1 |('uv«'. .Much to my 
 .•iiiiioy.'iiict', on visit iiiy,- liiiii the t'ollowiiij^ diiy 1 IoiiihI 
 tli<> liiiii(l]i;;*-.s and splints hail all h«>(>n iiniioUH liy a na- 
 tive doctor, who declared il an utter impossihility that 
 the fracture should heal witiiout the orthodox fetich 
 perfoi'uiance heintc suhniitted to — hurnin;^ of ci'itain 
 herbs, placin;^ the linil) in the smoke, etc. I fixed him 
 up aj^ain, ami explained, in as strong l;ini;ua;;e as my 
 intei-preter could tnnster, Ihid if his uizjii'd was per- 
 mitted to interfere a^^•lin 1 should see him no (uore. 
 
 April -(itli. It is now nearly a inoni II since I rciichecj 
 i'alachwe; and although the chief and the white iTsi- 
 deiits are aiixicnis for me to stay a little lon^o-, I (ind 
 myself physically l<»sin,i; ^i"oun<l and j;<'ttinj;' weid<ei- 
 e\ci\v day. JMH' scarcely twenty-four consecutive hours 
 • hirin;;' my sojourn here Iia\e I not felt the effects of 
 lliis ti'yinjj: climate, either in utter prostration from tla^ 
 malarial poison, <»i' in repeated and lonu-eontinued spells 
 of liiuh temj»ei'atu.'<'. 1 have decided to ^et out of this 
 to-moi-row Ity wa.i;on, and steei- northwar<l through 
 Mashonaland I'ln Salishui'y. During' the month, Ix;- 
 sides Khama (who lais sulTere(l two relapses, hut is 
 now seemin<j;ly all riuht) and hundreds of his people, f 
 liiive liixl seventeen out of the twenty Huropi'aiis in tin* 
 town uinlei' ti'e;itm<'nt, also sevei'al Dutchmi'ii i);issini^ 
 through. Happily, there have lieeu no fatal cases among 
 them to i-ecord ; altliou<;h the fever assumed a vei-y ma- 
 iiuiiant type in live instances, all are now couvah'scent, 
 The de;ith-rate amou*;: the natives, who hav'<i li;id no 
 medicid aid except from Kafllir doctoi's, has coidinue(l 
 very lii^di; but now that the winter api)roaclies tin* 
 
,•/ M.K.MrH.I.NI h.lHOSS. 
 
 '2X1 
 
 'IumI 
 
 ITSI- 
 
 liiid 
 nkci- 
 inirs 
 s of 
 
 lis 
 lis 
 
 t is 
 
 ,1 
 
 tint 
 
 1)11^' 
 
 Mi;i- 
 ■iit, 
 
 no 
 u<m1 
 
 ho 
 
 |H'<»lnil»iliti«'H m'«' that th«' worst of thf cpiiu'iuii! in ovt-r 
 for thi' present. 
 
 Anion;;' iiiiiiiy eiirios I Kroii^'ht hoitie froin AtVie.i, 
 
 thel'e }ire ||<)||t> I |»ri/,e so hi^illlv as the Miji;tllilirt||| 
 
 karors, eoinjtosed of six hundred and twenty-six fiuer- 
 rat tails, which was presented to nie hy the white men 
 of I'alaehwe, with the followni^' letter: 
 
 l'.\l,.\rii\VK. April Jil. IS!)J. 
 Ih: Jolinston, /'tiliirhirc : 
 
 DKAItSnt: We, till' iiniltTsij^iicd, on tin' eve ol' voiir dtpjirliiif 
 
 from I'uliKiliw*', lii'^; to liiitul you this little note, atid tin- a<('otii|iiiiiy 
 
 ill;; kiiross us u sli^rlit ntiini lor llif vii-y irniit kimliicss wo have all 
 
 cxpcriDiici'd nt your liaiids; and in askiiij; you to acf'cpt saiin' we 
 
 would int'iitioii that if it soinctiiiics itniinds you of thr frii-nds you 
 
 Imvo iiiad<! and hflpnl hero, it will indeed have jiiiswired its purpose. 
 
 Wishing you u very ph-usanl trip imd a loiivr life, we are, dear >ir, 
 
 ^'ours very sincerely, 
 
 Chas. a. Knsoi;, Al.liKiiT K. (Jn.Ks. 
 
 l*l-:i{( V (i. WSM), I'. lloWAUD Wll.MA.MS, 
 
 (J. 11. .M. Boon, II. (Jim;s. 
 
 Mueh has alroady lieen written eoiiet'rnin^ Khania, 
 liis eoiintry, and peojdc, hoth hy missionaries and 
 travejei-s. The former, as a rule, champion the cause 
 of tln! native, extolling his virtues and eoialonin^ his 
 failin^^s, while the latter are only too often luider the 
 iKicessity of «lej)endin^ on prejiidice<l parties for their 
 information. What we have to say will l»e simply 
 «onii)a,rativ<^, and conlined, as much as possible, to jier- 
 sonal observation, avoiding sent iment — so indis|)ensahle 
 an a<ljunct to writings on Africa nowadays. We are 
 told the ])ul)lic likes romance; ]»erhaps it does: hut 
 thoro arc sonic who prefer plain facts, and for su('h wo 
 write. 
 
 i ( 
 
: I 
 
 Hi J: 
 
 till m 
 
 If . :h 
 
 m '■• 
 
 H ' 
 
 •2:'A 
 
 Rl.tlll V if.KSLS Ro.Vi.isa:. 
 
 Klumin is ;i iioMc cxMinplc of what (Miristianity and 
 civili/atioii can th) I'or the African. IJotli tViciuls and 
 Iocs ackiiowicdiic him to lie a straii;'ht forward, honest, 
 ami niu'l^ht man. Stern ami vi^orons in administra- 
 tion, he enforces his laws with nndeviatinu' lirmness 
 and imi)art iality, ji irticnlarly in the suiipi'ession of tho 
 di'ink ti'al"li<'. .\ iiadei- disco\-erfd selling' drink to a 
 nalix'e is forlhwilh exiiclled from tlieeonntry. So ex- 
 tl'cniearc his pcl'solial feeling's on the suhject, that ho 
 declined to driid< lilt* medicine 1 prescrihed foi' him 
 dnrinu,' his illness iiecanse it was in a hotlle, Imt took 
 it I'eadily when sent in a jn^'. A nati\e who attenii»ls 
 to make k'aftii' lieer— so lai'ii'cly consnmed in almost, 
 excry other |iai1 of ceiiti'al Africa — is not oidy exiled 
 with his lamily, lait has all his lands, cat tie, and house- 
 hold L^oods conliscated, exce|)t in.u' cookinu'-jiots and 
 lilankets; and with no respect of i>er>ons, ixhama's 
 own lii'ot her-in-law lia\in,u' ii'id to share this fate oidy 
 a few months a'li'o. In a "word, under no pi'<>tensc what- 
 ex'er are intoxicating' liquors supposed to he obtained 
 in I'alachwe, not <'\en foi- medicinal purpos(>s. 
 
 Seeiiiu' he so Jealously uuai'ds his people ag'ainst tllO 
 lianefnl etTects i^^ stroni;' driid<, oni' would naturally 
 coiicfude that Kliama is e(|uall\' anihitions foi- their ad- 
 \ancemen! and ele\ation socially, hy iiiculcatiiiiA' thos(» 
 pi'inciples that shoukl reu'ulate Christian homes and 
 fannlies, and without which no connnunity can he other 
 than dehased and innnoral. I)nt such is not tliecase. 
 .\iiy el'fort to improN'c their dwelliiiii's the better to olt- 
 sei'N'e oi'dinary social laws, as in refei'eiiee to the s(>])ara- 
 titiu of the sexes, etc., is s|teedijy Nctoed He lives in 
 one I'ouud Ixaflii' hut himself, and his peo[)le nmst 
 
 J 
 
 
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atl- 
 
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 3 
 
THE MANGIVATO AS A TRIBE. 
 
 2;j5 
 
 aspire no liij^licr; Ikmicc wo found whole families M-ith 
 jiTown-ui) sons and daughters herded together promis- 
 cuously in tlu'ir small round grass and mud hovels. In 
 no instfuice have we seen the sem])lanee of a partitioji, 
 not even a hit of ealieo hung up to <livide the slee[)ing- 
 l)hiees, while innnorality is more hrazen-faoed than 
 among the most uncivilized we have met hitherto. 
 The numerous cases of syphilis and venereal com- 
 plaiiits that have couh' under my notice here for the 
 first time since leaving the W(\st Coast ])r()ve all too 
 <'onclusively that something more is wanted besides the 
 exclusion of alcoholi<* li(|Uors before the majority of 
 Khama's people can be truthfully nundtered among the 
 tro[)hi*-s won to Christianity in Afi'ica. 
 
 Tlu! Mangwato as a tribe ar<' of small statun^ and 
 coars<'-featured. The tribal mark is formed liy making 
 four per[)cndicular incisions three ([uai'ters of an inch 
 long in front of the ears over the zygomatic arch. 'V\\v\ 
 make no attempt at dressing the hair; the men cut it 
 short, and the women have their heads shave(l with the 
 regularitv of a (/hinanian. F<Mnale decorations consist 
 of an assoi'tment of iron and brass armlets and anklets, 
 and in addition tit'rs of rings composed of small blue 
 l)eads reaching almost to the knees. The headmen 
 wear Euro[>i'an <'lothing, and the aspiration of all tlu^ 
 Mangwato pro[)er is to dress like white men. 
 
 They ai'c a\'ei'se to manual laboi-, work of any kind 
 being cousidcri'd undignified. I'heir chief occupation 
 is the making of karosses. ]>ut this handicraft has 
 
 seen its best days, as since 
 
 Kl 
 
 lama came under 
 
 lirit 
 
 isli 
 
 protectorate tlie sale of gunpowder, carti'idges, or lii'i 
 
 I m 
 
 ai 
 
 ms has been so resti'ii ted that there is very littlo 
 
 \'. >i 
 
230 
 
 RHALITY rERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 M 1^ 
 
 fis- 
 
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 ii:^ 
 
 
 r,j 
 
 Iniiitiiig of wild aiiinials now. As usual among such 
 ppopU', the Inilk of tho hard work falls upon the women. 
 Tlicy till tlio ground, stamp the ni(>alies, and act 
 as niaids-of-all-work to their husbands and hi-others. 
 What we have written conoerning" slavery in tlu^ Ba- 
 rotse applies also to IJaniangwato, although perluips in 
 a milder form. Yet over fifty per cent, of Khama's 
 people are slaves (Makalakas), subject to his ord(n-s, 
 his sul)-ckiefs, or such of the Mangwato as mny have 
 permission to appropriate their labor. These ^Nfakala- 
 kas art^ the representatives of many tribes conquered 
 and captured in l)y-gone days, when th(^ ^Mangwato was 
 a strong and warlike nation. Still, many friends of 
 fn'cdom would be glad to see Khama add to his nuiny 
 virtues and humane laws that of equal rights to all his 
 sul»jects, and phice those victims of "the accidents of 
 war" on a footing with the Mangwato, and not the 
 abject slaves they are at present. 
 
 J^ut why, it may be suggested, refer to tlu^sc* <larker 
 plnises of African life? AVell, for one renson, because 
 there are many who desire to know both sides. It 
 would certainly be more agreeable, and perha})s more 
 popular, to write only that Avhich is pleasing; but for 
 the sake of those especially who may be anticipating 
 coming to this comitry, I am endeavoring in calm de- 
 lib(>ration to acquire a knowledge of th(» regions and 
 jK'ople along my route, judging impartially and with- 
 out prejudice, seeking to record only that Avhich I be- 
 li(^ve to be indisputably true. Untold harm has actu- 
 ally b(M>n done by the publication of one-sided reports, 
 purporting to be faithful descriptions of certain por- 
 
 ! ^M\ 
 
 ■ I ;l 
 
 u- 
 
; I 
 
 McKEN/Jli AND Hl.rBURN. 
 
 2;j7 
 
 tioiis of the Dark Continent, but writton (wIumi the 
 truth is known) by men who avo simply the tools of 
 parties luiving" selfish motives for booming;' this or that 
 territory where their interests lie, and ))y writers who 
 eater to that class of readers to Avhom books of travel 
 aro pahitaljle only as they smack of hair-breadth es- 
 capes, thrilling adventures, etc. 
 
 In many instances young men occupying good situ- 
 ations at homo have been induced to resign their posi- 
 tions and come out here with the hope of bettering 
 themselves, only to find that they have been grossly de- 
 ceived; and if they do not succuml) to fever, dysentery, 
 or drink, they embrace the first oi»portuiiity pi-es(Miting 
 itself of returning home, with a very much inci'eased 
 appreciation of the mother country. I']ven missionary 
 reports often fail to tell the truth eoneerning the field 
 in which they seek to create an interest, fearing tJiat a. 
 full account might discourag(5 contributors. The evil 
 effect of this policy is not far to seek: half of the mis- 
 sionaries Ave have met during our journey state in so 
 manv words that their coming to Africa has been fraught 
 with sore disappointment, both as regards the coujitry 
 and the work. 
 
 But to return to the Mangwato. While what wo 
 have written in refen-nce to them ap2)lies to the tribe 
 as a whole, there mw many ha})i>y exceptions. Tho 
 labors of McKenzie and Hepburn during these many 
 years have not been in vain, for Ix'sides the chief ther*^ 
 are a large nund)er of natives whose consistent and 
 exemplary lives prove that their profession of Christ i- 
 anity is something more than the mere observance of 
 
--'■■'^'^-^-hij'^--— ■niwirtn..a..' 
 
 Pi 
 
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 L>;5H 
 
 REALITY rURSiS ROMANCE. 
 
 <)iit\var<l I'oniuilitit's; iiiid iIktc cim Itc no (|U('sti<>ii tliat 
 great and lasting' good lias resulted from the long and 
 earnest toil ol' tli(! nii.ssionai'ies. 
 
 It was with deep regret that Ave leann'(l, on aniving 
 at Talaehwe, that on aeeount of a disjtute between 
 Khania .and Mr. Hepburn the latter had retired I'n^ni 
 the held and returiu>d to England. This nnt'oi'tunate 
 i'irennistanee has been a gr.eat l»low to the mission. 
 Tli(! splendid brick ehureh in eonrse of erection and 
 U(»ar eompletion is now at a standstill, and 1 fear will 
 remain so until the London Missionary Hoeiety ean send 
 out another man. 
 
 The eontra.st between the Mangwato antl the ^latebele 
 in the adjoining country on the north is very marked, 
 illustrating the jjower and inlhiencc oL' the chiefs over 
 the i>eople. The Matebele are Zulus who, owing to 
 inter-tribal wars, were oblige(l to leave the sonth and 
 tr(ik nortliward. They are ruled by the savage chief 
 Lobengula, who, Avliile he in no way molests or opposes 
 the four missionai'ies who liv(^ in his country and carry 
 on a work that has existed for over thirty years (biMng 
 originally estaldished by Dr. Motfatt), like Lewanika, 
 assumes an attitude toward them (luite as antagonistic 
 to success as if he W(.'re openly hostile. Shaking his 
 clin<'lied fist at his people, he tells them, " You nuiy 
 
 become Christians if you like, but " and there he 
 
 stops, for his jjeoplc know him well enough to under- 
 stand what the nieuace implies. Hence the results, thus 
 far, of these long years of self-sacrificing labor are al- 
 most iilL This I learned from Eev. Mr. Elliott, one of 
 their oldest and most experienced missionaries, whom I 
 had the pleasure of meeting lu'ri' with his sick wife, on 
 
rR.iTi.R .1X1) ins.riHAN. 
 
 2:)9 
 
 llicii' wjiy to (';ii»(' Town, lit' ;ils() inroi'int'd me that not 
 hull a dozen iiativt's can Im- round in the wliolc country 
 
 Avho wouKl lioldlv 
 
 ISS( 
 
 I't their alli'uiancc to Cliristian- 
 
 ity; one or two dared to do so, and were })roniptly 
 knockecl on the liead, hy oi^U'i' of the chief. 
 
 lint our l)ai;',u'a,i;'t) is on l)oai'd the wa.n'on, our ei,i;iiteen 
 oxen are ready to l»e iiispanned, and we trek to-niyiit 
 noi'th toward tlie /^andx'si. I have thou.uiit it hest to 
 send i!iy two Janiaieans, l-'rater and .lonathan, on to 
 (ape Town, Mr, l"iHiolt kindly jiroinisiui;' to take cliarm^ 
 of iIhmu III route honiewai'd. 1 am soi-ry to part with 
 them, as 1 am still a thousand miles from the point in 
 Africa I wish to reach. They liave heeii of ureat ser- 
 vici' to me, and the idea of employing:;' ("hi'istian natives 
 of the West Indies as assistants to jiioneers in Centi'al 
 Africa I have i)roved l»y this jonniey to l»e (piite pi'ac- 
 ticahle. Bnt as means of transport in.u' ti'ade ^oods an<l 
 in,i;'i;'ai;'e seem to .i-'et nioi'e expensive and difficnlt to 
 procnre tlu; farther <'ast we ti-avel, J do n(»t feel justi- 
 fied in takin.u' them heyond l)ecliuanalan<l. IJut wiiy 
 not leave them with the nnssionaries, as i)i'oposed ,' At 
 Jiamang'wato there is no missionaiy, as 1 ha\-e ali'eady 
 .stated, and in any case I do jjol s^'c tliat the lit time has 
 come yet. Even those left at Hihe 1 wonld recommcnid 
 to retui'u as soon as l)nildin,i;' o}M'i'ations are <'ompleted 
 on tile Cisaniha station, as it is only in tlie opcuim;' n}) 
 of new s[theres tliat their sei'vices can l)e profitably 
 utilized. At present little or no eff<»i't is hein.i;' put 
 forth to reach the numerous trihes occupyin.i;' th(> vast 
 rog'ions iivo hundrt'd miles north and live hundred miles 
 south of the road Ave liave travelecl iVom IVdie, save that 
 nol)lu little hand composing tlie Frencli mission on the 
 
 It 
 
ir 
 
 i W' III 
 
 240 
 
 RE/1UTY ll:l<Sl\ KOM.ISCli. 
 
 Zamltcsi. Tlicv nro not coiistitutcil to aot as oi-ij^aiiizovM 
 of work, and nntil white nicn .-n'*' t'oi'tlicomin^" to h'ad 
 the \an, rather than |>iit iVicnds at home to tlie expenst* 
 of su)>|»ortin«j: them, without the prospect of aecomplisli- 
 ini; anything;', Ave <leem it expedient that they remain iu 
 theii- own country, for the present. 
 
 Mr. KUard, a youn.i;' lOnuiishman in the omjiloy of 
 .Messrs. Dhickbeard Bros., liein.n' threatened with pul- 
 monary ti'oul)le, lias volunteereil to accompany me part 
 of the way at least, in the expectation that the liij;lier 
 plateau may benefit him. So I laive lai<l in a su[)[t|y 
 of i»rovisions for the road, suliticient, T ho})*', for two of 
 us, until Ave reach Salisbury. The prohibitive prices 
 charii'ed here for food-stuffs for1»id extra va<;'ance; l)ut 
 "necessity knows no law," and i»ast experienc(^ jias 
 ta.u,i;iit me not to depend on what y//r;_y be obtained fi'om 
 the natives on the Avay. The usual monotony attends 
 travelini;' through this pail of the country. There is 
 but Uttle variety in the scenery; an odd ko]>jie (hill), 
 scrubby thoi'ii-bush, or small iiiopani tree, with a «;'reat 
 exi)ans(^ of dry, wiry, sa})less, strau'uiin.i;' i;rass, consti- 
 tutes the landscape. Tlu^ roa<l, however, is fairly ,i;'Ood, 
 and we lumber aloui-', the drivers b;iwliii,i;'out the names 
 of the oxen with threats and exhortations, and cracking' 
 their long' Avhips. AVe cover about fifteen miles a ni.uiit, 
 one trek from sunset until !> or 10 r.M., and another 
 from 1 x.M. until (Iayli<i'ht, when the oxen are set free to 
 graze for the day. This seems a slow mode of travel- 
 in,u', and so it is; but it must be remembered tli;d we 
 lia\'e over live hundred miles c»f a roiiuii road before 
 lis, and a heavily laden wau'oii to be drawn by the 
 same oxen the whole Avay. On the morning of the 2d 
 
 m II 
 
 Mf 
 
t(» It'atl 
 
 ilMplisll- 
 
 muiii in 
 
 ijdoy of 
 itli pill- 
 ule part 
 1' hiu'lu'i' 
 1 supply 
 r two of 
 •(' prices 
 ice; but 
 'lice has 
 led from 
 - attends 
 ThiMv is 
 jie (hill), 
 a lA'reat 
 coiisti- 
 ly ,i;'ood, 
 ic names 
 •racking 
 a nii;'lit, 
 another 
 't fre(> to 
 >f travel- 
 Ihal we 
 d before 
 by \\w 
 )f the 2d 
 
II ' 
 
 I , 
 
 \l 
 
 iUM 
 
 • i 
 
 ] i 
 
 \i 
 
MACl.OLITSin. 
 
 J41 
 
 a (Irivor wont out iind shot ji sjtlcjKlid olund ant('loi>«', 
 th(( flesh of which we t'ouiid delicious, niid made n ^ood 
 addition to our hirdcr, as with ('arc a hindiiiiai'tcr keeps 
 for u week. 
 
 AVe readied Maelontsie on tiio iJd, wliero we liiid a 
 fort, and headcinarters eanip of the lieehuanaland Hoi'- 
 <h>r l\)hee. Th«'y are hei'e to eid'oree iJi'itish aulhority 
 and |»i'ot(!ct its interests in IJeehuaiialand, althonuh 
 wh'it these interests are soenis at pi'esent |ii'ol»Ieinatieal. 
 Tli«' troops, two hunch'ed and lifty in numher, are re- 
 cruited fi-oi:i Cape Colony and the inothei" country, and 
 eonnnanded by officers from iJritish i-euinients. Ac- 
 cording- to Sir Sydney Shejipard, "the expense of the 
 for<'0 is about iilH),()(M), and the whole expenditure on 
 the Prot(>ctorate is just over £!( )(),()()(); the revenue at 
 present is very small." (See Tlic Capv An/iis, weekly 
 edition, July 28, 1S9J.) 
 
 The elevation of the district is much hiuher than 
 Paladiwe, and healthier, ther(^ bein.i;' but tiu'ce or four 
 patients in tho well-ai>pointed hospital at the time of 
 our visit. 
 
 Two days beyond Maeloutsie the drivers went Imnt- 
 in*; again, and shot a wart-hou,' — a horril>le-lookin,i;' ani- 
 nud, with tusks six inches lonj^;, and a cartihiginous 
 protuberance two and a half inches in leni^'th, A littlo 
 l)ohind an<l three inches above each eye tlwi ilesh is too 
 rank to eat. Alonij; this part of the road wolves and 
 jackals com<^ howlin<^ around the camp at ni«i,ht ; but 
 the fires ke(>p them at bay. The track is rou<i:h in tia^ 
 extreme, not only from the numerous stones and hoh's 
 in the way, but, what is even worse, stumps of trees 
 varying in height from a few inches to a foot. Tho 
 
 i ! 
 
Ii4-J 
 
 KI..II.II) ll.HSL.S ROM^NCn. 
 
 Iti'ojnl wlu't'ls iM'i'sist ill iiuMMiliiij;: tln'iii, to coiiM' down 
 with !i <liill, sifUeiiiiiu' tliiid tliiit tliri'iiti'iis not only 
 concussion of tlic l»i';iiii, Itiit of c\ci\\- iiilci'n;il ornau 
 of tlic Weary traveler, wlio tfics to snatch a coiijilc of 
 hours' sjccj) on the to)* of the cai'uo, conii»ellin,Li' him at 
 last to sit n|» ami improvise a sitrinu,' seat of his I'olled- 
 \\\< lilankets, so as to lessen the risk of serious injury 
 from (nut If coiiji. 
 
 ( »u the St h we outs))aiined within three miles of Tuli, 
 and walked on in the morninu to see this "mushroom" 
 staat that has s|»run.',' n|> siiici K'in»des ».V ( 'o. heuan to 
 hoom .Mashoiialaud as l-jiiL-iand's Midoi-ado. .\ small 
 hut at the outskirts suriirised us not a little; for the 
 jii'oprietoi', liesides all noniiciuii', on a hoai'd of many 
 
 colors li.\e(l to a )i 
 
 ill front of his estaidisliment. 
 
 that he was a hairdressei- a-nd harlter, also inlimated 
 that in his t Welve-feet-S(|Uai'e domicile he was prepared 
 to accommodate, for a consideration, liuui;i'y an<l som- 
 nolent wayfai'ei's with refr<'sliment and l)e<ls. 1 entered 
 to have a look at his hinitinii hi pttno and .net a "crop." 
 I found the artist — an ex-policemaii — Itusy with a verv 
 refractory suhject, a prospcctoi", maudlin drunk. 1'alk 
 he woulil, whilt! Iteiui;' shaved, in si»it»' of the harher's 
 expostulations. As a second jiarty in a like condition 
 sat awaitinii' liis tni'ii, wo proposed takini*; a stroll. In- 
 toxicated whit<' men soeniod the order of the chiy; we 
 met them at every turn, althouuh they have to pay 
 twenty-live shilliui^s per bottle for brandy and fiye shil- 
 lin.u's p<'r bottle for ale. 
 
 Tuli is situated on tli(> south bank of the rivei' Shar- 
 shi, and boasts of a small hotel and lialf a do/.en trading- 
 stores, built mostly of wood and corrugated iron. There 
 
/•OA'/ TLU. 
 
 •J \[\ 
 
 tt 
 
 arc, licsidcs, two stoffs liclonwiim' to tlit l>rilisli Suiitli 
 African CoiMimiiN lillfl with urrnt «|iiaiilitir> ul" wlirat 
 iiical, wliili' ill till- (>|M'ii air arc ^tackctl some srvru 
 liiindrt'il l)aj;'s <»l' mraliis; l>iit rNJdi'iitly tin- administra- 
 tion of the romniis.sariat di'|>;iri ni'-iit of tin' f(»iii|iaiiy is 
 fatla'i" dol'i'ctivL', us flicrc is hdi a sill^■l(' \n\)x, of rilltfi' 
 c'oininoditv lit lor food. This shann'ful waste of i;i'aiii 
 has not been coiiliiii'd to Tiili, liowcNfi-; the saiia' roin- 
 |»any hoardrd a thousand liai;s of iiic.-difs diii'iiin' ISDO 
 at Ahhi, until thi-y had to he thrown away on tht< 
 vi'Idt ; and iifarly lln' saint' f|Uaniit>' was dis|r)S('d of 
 in a similar maiiiaT at .Marl(»ntsi.'. The ovrr-sanuniiin 
 imrchastTs prohahly iiitrnd<'(| to |;iy in a supply for the 
 hundrcils of horsrs, which, thoiiiih lirouuht up from 
 tilt' ('oloiiv, refused to Ii\i' in such a climate. 
 
 In Hie center of the tow II, on a si 
 
 nai 
 
 Ko p le 
 
 a, forti- 
 
 ilea t ion has I teen const ructed, and is u.u'ri soiled hv som 
 
 liv 
 
 e policemen, e\-ery will 
 
 te mall ill the district hcini'* 
 
 nndci' [tlediic to aid in holdinv,' the fort in c-nt of an 
 attack from the .Malehele, their mo 
 
 lorniHlalile elleiiu- 
 
 Ila\'in,i;' ohiaiiicd iiermissiou of the cai)laiii, I proceeded 
 to do some plioto,ura[»liy from tli" fort, luit was warned 
 not to clinilj over the l)reast work, as the sandliai;s would 
 not permit of heiii^- walked upon ! 
 
 Wlu'tluu" it was tin' inlense heat or lia\iim" had noth- 
 inji' to oat from early morninu', I know not ; imt while 
 in tlie act of pulling' the slide a feclin.L;- of faintiiess and 
 
 ; oppressive and painfnl that 
 
 y,'iui|in<'ss came oxer me 
 
 tlic operation became ansthiiiu' but a pastime. I ,i;(;t 
 is T conli] and sonulit a friendly shelter, 
 
 down as soon 
 down 
 
 md \i 
 
 for a <*onple of liours, lidplcss as if par- 
 alyzed. But u eup of tea revived nie u bit; and the 
 
 s 
 
( 
 
 f ■ 
 
 i: 
 
 
 
 1'. 
 
 f 
 
 1: 
 
 \ ? 
 
 
 r '' 
 
 
 . ' 
 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 
 244 
 
 REALITY ymSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 wa^oiis liiivinj? coiiu' up early in tlio at'tiM'iioon, so as 
 to get across tho live Imiuhvtl yanls of sanely rivor-bod 
 of the Sliarslii during (.laylight, 1 walked on after them. 
 
 I may remark that not more than ten per cent, of 
 South African rivers can be called permanent. They 
 How only durinjj; the three or four months of the wet 
 season. For another month water will bo found in 
 isolated pools, but for the balance of the year they will 
 he ju^rfectly dry. Since leaving the Zambesi we have 
 crossed scores of water-coiu'scs, but in not more than 
 two did ^ve liud a runiiinu' stream. 
 
 When about to get on tlic wagon for the purpose of 
 reaciiing the other side, a policeman rode up demand- 
 ing to see our passport or license to enter Mashonaland. 
 A\'e made some observations in referenc»> to our pos- 
 sessing a Portuguese passport through their country as 
 a foreigner, but thought it rather extraordinary that a 
 Bi-itish subject should require a permit to pass through 
 (so-caUed) British territory. "Can't help that, sir; my 
 orders are to stop every white man fi'om passing through 
 Tuli unless he can show a prospectoi-'s license." Vain 
 were our protests that we \ver»' not "'pi'ospi.-ctors"; nor 
 Avould we know the difference between reef (piartz and 
 alluvial gohl, if wc saw it. A policeman on duty is not 
 open to reason, and, though feeling very ill, wi^ had no 
 alternative but to manh back to a small mud hut, 
 wliei'c a nunion of the law duly registered us as pro- 
 spectors, and on payment of a small fee handed us 
 strips of paper to that etfect. It Avas now getting lat(^, 
 and we hurried back to join our wagon. To cross the 
 I'iver-betl was no light work, the wheels sinking to the 
 hubs in the wet sand and retpiiring double spans of 
 
Mi:il.!i.S .-iKD PLMPLLXS. 
 
 1:4: 
 
 purpose of 
 
 ip doiuaud- 
 
 ishoiuiUuul. 
 
 () our pos- 
 
 couutry !is 
 nary that a 
 iss thri)Uij;h 
 .at, sir; my 
 iui;- through 
 use." Vaiu 
 ctors"; nor 
 
 (piartz and 
 
 (hity is not 
 , wo l\a(l no 
 
 I mud hut, 
 I us as pro- 
 liauiU'd us 
 
 o-ottius;- hit<^ 
 To cross tho 
 
 iking- to tho 
 
 jle spans of 
 
 oxen to i)u]l H tlirougl, ; hut it was accomplish*'!! Avith- 
 out any mishap, and, liaviiig trekked sc\cii mih'S more, 
 we tie(l u}). Ii«'in,u unaMc to cat anything, Klhird went 
 out to a Boer camp for the purpose of purchasing some 
 milk. TJK'y allowed him to have a (|nart, and let him 
 down easy ly charging only two shillings and sixpence. 
 We ar«^ now out of Khama's count I'y, Sharshi being 
 the northern boundary. Ki'om the time we entered it 
 at Leshuma, ten miles south of the Ziunbesi, we have 
 traversed in a, sort of semicircle over six hnndi'cd miles 
 of liis t(M'i'itor}, and have come to the coiM'lusion that 
 it may suit Kalllrs well enough, whose daily wants are 
 limite(l to a, few mealies or pumpkins (1 have seen no 
 other ]>r()ducts of the soil in anv quantity dui'ing the 
 ten weeks of my wanderings in liritish IJechuanalaml), 
 but it can never be of any use to Europeans for pur- 
 poses of <'olouization. There are pi'aii'ie i'arms in the 
 I'liiteil States and (/anada any single one of which 
 yields annually more au'ricultui-al produce than does 
 the whole of Khama's kingdom. " Irrigate, irrigate," 
 
 s:ivs the lai'iner 
 
 W 
 
 th what, pray 
 
 'or eight monllis 
 
 m the year tluM'e is scarcely a runiimg stream m the 
 country; during that time the only water to be foiuid 
 is in tli(^ jnts and stagi'.aVit pools called "vleys," scat- 
 tered few and far betwen over the veldt, becoming 
 re»luc(vl in number as tla^ season advances. 
 
 We crossed the T"ni .aui on the lOth, and are now in 
 the Banyai country. The roads ai-e still vei'v rough, 
 being cut up every few yards by spniifs and shiifs from 
 a fe\v feel to several yards in depth, re(|uirnig the IVe- 
 ♦pient a])plicati()n of the brakes to pi'exciit tlie' wagon 
 from crushing tiie oxen as it plunges into the ravine. 
 
 i I 
 
 \ ' 
 
 i : 
 ?) 
 
 .1 
 
 11 
 
t: 
 
 h 
 
 
 ■li: ■ 
 
 9 hi 
 
 l!i| 
 
 111 '\ ' 
 
 Ml 
 
 ill r 
 
 rt'< 
 
 24G 
 
 RE/ILITY ^^ERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 The Banyai nativos .ire refugees from various tribos, 
 and have tlioir kraals aiuoiiji; tlio t'astiu.'ssos of tlio hills, 
 whoro tliey have boon driven tlirj)Uj;h fear of the ]\Iate- 
 bele. Lik<' the MashoDas, they ;ii'e very i>()<)r, liavin^' 
 be<Mi sniiilarly plundered of almost every t hint;' they 
 possessed l)y the raiding warriors of Lol)eii.i;nIii, who 
 not only seiz(i their cattle, but take captive and enslave 
 their \vomen and children, asseij^aing their men. Tin? 
 dress of the women consists chietly of large coils of 
 beads round the waist and ankles. Tliey shavi; their 
 heads with the exci'ption of a round spot on the crown 
 about three inches in diameter, and over all, of course, 
 grease. The men, as usual, an; more simple in their 
 atrire, contented with the regulation small tab of wild- 
 cat skin fore and aft. 
 
 Four (lavs more saw us outs]>anned bv the Boobv 
 River, surrounded by numerous grand kopji<'s I'ising 
 abruptly from the plain, some of them to the height 
 of eight hundred to a thousand feet, bare and bald, 
 seemingly one solid block of granite, closely resem- 
 bling those we iirst saw in the (.'isange countiy west 
 of Bihe. While out hunting, the drivers (encountered 
 a lion, but there is no exciting story to tell of the ad- 
 venture, for with commendal)le discretion they sought 
 refuge in the camp. Two days ago four lions attacked 
 the oxen of a ti'ansport rider, killing several; but thus 
 far we liave escaped them. 
 
 Next day wt> halted at jNlatipi's kraal, and bartered 
 for some vegetables with salt, gun-caps, and matches. 
 I climbed an adjoining koi)jie for the purpose of taking 
 photos, and found ((uite a village near the top, com- 
 posed of pool" little huts built m tiie nooks and cnnnces 
 
IS tribos, 
 tlio liills, 
 he Matc- 
 r, iiaviiij;' 
 iii^i;' tlicy 
 :ulii, who 
 I ciisiavc 
 ('11. Tlu^ 
 ( coils of 
 avo their 
 lie crown 
 )l' coiir.S(% 
 1 in tlicir 
 J of wild- 
 
 10 Boolty 
 OS I'isiiit!," 
 lio li('i<>,'lit 
 iiul bald, 
 y rcsciii- 
 iitry ^vcst 
 •ouuterod 
 )f tlio ad- 
 'y sought 
 ; attacked 
 but thus 
 
 l>arter(Hl 
 
 matches. 
 
 of taking 
 
 top, coni- 
 
 l1 crevic(»s 
 
Hiii 
 
 h , 
 
 1 ( 
 
 i: 
 
 i 
 
 t ; 
 
 i' 
 
 ■ i. 
 
 i i 
 j' 
 
 r 
 
 il 1:1 
 
IVHISKLY SHOPS. 
 
 L'l; 
 
 of tlio rocks; liiiviiiu' no soil in wliicli to fix the iijtriulit 
 sticks, the foniidatioiis wcru stn-n^tlicnotl l>y kiycrs of 
 inu(k 
 
 riic t'ollowinf;: day wo crossed the (loiuki/iiic. Thcro 
 is u small whiskey shop here, run l>y white men, nom- 
 inally for the convenience of travelers, and one of many 
 that have been o[)ened oelwecn Tuli, Salishni'y, and 
 Fmtali since the JJritish took possession, and ^'enerally 
 situated as near as possible to the re^'ulai" onls|)annin,i;' 
 places. The Salishuiy corres[)ondent of Tlt<' ('(tpr An/us 
 llVr/.V//, April (I, 1S!H^, wi'ites: 
 
 "The follo\vin,i;' list will Ik^ interestinu' to many, and 
 also usi'ful to those intending" to ti-ek Mashonaland- 
 ward. Wayside places on main road, Tuli — Salisbury. 
 FroniTuli: 
 
 M. Panre's, 15 miles. Tampbell and Drnmmoud. 
 
 Umzin»i,"wan, .'!.") miles. ]lin<ls and Fermau. 
 
 M. (Jobu's, SO miles. Withers. 
 
 M. Tibi's, iL' miles. Drummond. 
 
 , lOd miles, Dillon and Perkins. 
 
 Kuenetsi Kiver, V22 miles. Sanderson. 
 
 Lundi Kiver, 155 miles. (Jrant. 
 
 Toqwi Kivin-, 1S"J miles. Saunders and Prinslotz. 
 
 Fern Si>i'uit, 194 miles. Bowden. 
 
 Fort Victoi'ia, 204 miles. Various hotels and stores. 
 
 M. Kari's, '2:U nnles. 
 
 Imytsitsi. Werrit and Young. 
 
 Fort Charter. Dunn. 
 
 Umfuli. 
 
 Ilanyani. 
 
 Six-mile Spruit. ]\Iashonaland Auctioneering Co. 
 
 Salisbury. 
 
 \ i 
 
 V. 
 
 /^\ 
 
1 
 \ 
 
 
 "Pf 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 
 ■ill : 
 
 ' 
 
 1 
 
 1" ' 
 
 
 1 
 
 f! 
 
 I: 
 
 ; ' •! 
 
 !m 
 
 
 '24S 
 
 Ri..-ti.riy ruRsus jwmanc/;. 
 
 "Tlio i>1jic<'s left Miiiik liuvo l)oori filU'd, but so far I 
 liuvo not I'l'ccivcd tli(! luuiics. r'rom Salislmry to Um- 
 tali tlx! following is tlio list: 
 
 1(5 miles IVoiii Salisbury, Dnncaii-aiKl Korr. 
 
 I>2 miles IVoiii Salisbury, (iraliam and Wliito. 
 
 IMarandella's, Jjottoniley. Head uud jMooro. 
 
 M. Chiki's, 7H miles, Lewis. 
 
 Laui'en(HMlale. 
 
 Kesapi Drift, lOS miles. Reid Bros. 
 
 , bJO miles, li.'ites and Watson. 
 
 Odsi, 1,")() miles. liolberg-." 
 All)eit they are of but little benefit to a linn^ry man, 
 as w(\ hav(! in(iuir«jd m vain foi' br<:ad at (svery one 
 \V(> i)assed. This, with the fiiet tlmt out of a hundred 
 Wilsons now on tlu^ I'oad to Salisbuiy siiventy carry jin 
 jivera,i;(M)r two thousand bottles of intoxieiitin<;' TKiuor 
 each, is not much to the credit of Eui"0[)eans, iioi' to the 
 com])any under whose patronjii;"*' it is a(hnitted. It 
 is th(! unanimous oi»ini()n of Ihosa we have met that 
 whisk<'y dealei-s Avill j^'ct their finn'crs burned this tinu^, 
 foi- theri! is neither n'loni'y to Ituy noi- i)eo[)le to <b"ink a 
 tithe of tli<' stuff that is i»oui'in,n' into Salisbury. IMiis 
 I'ush is owini;' to the scarcity of li(juor and provisions 
 last yeai". I'he rivei's being full, wagons were detained 
 on the road until whiski^y l)i'ought £.")0 per case; 
 champagne, .£') per bottle; l^oer meal, £11* lOs. per bag; 
 and ()ne-])ound tins of pi'ovisions, lOs. each. The times 
 have change(l materially since then. Many of tlio miu- 
 ing claims have uot turned out to be such ])onanzas as 
 was exi)ect(!d; four syndicates have smashed up, dis- 
 missed their men, and abandoned in disgust tlie fields 
 that refus(; to yield sufficient of the precious metal to 
 
 H' 
 
IVHirii MI-.NS (.RAyF.L 
 
 24!) 
 
 so far I 
 
 toUm- 
 
 •r. 
 
 lito. 
 
 n;ry man, 
 very olio 
 
 ciUTy Jill 
 
 nj;- I'uiuor 
 
 lol- to tlio 
 
 lU'd. It 
 
 llM't tliut 
 
 his tiiiKi, 
 ) drink a 
 ry. This 
 )V<)visions 
 > <l('tuiiied 
 por cjisc; 
 j»rr hii.ii;; 
 Tilt' limos 
 f 11 10 iiiin- 
 :)iiaiizas as 
 d ni>, dis- 
 \\\y\ fields 
 IS metal to 
 
 pay working cxjM'iises; while jdinost every day wo 
 meet bauds of disappointed [(rositcctors n,'turniii<jj down 
 country, poorer nn.'n than when they passed up, full 
 of liopo, a year or so n^o. One ,u:ra])liieally deserihcd 
 thinfjjs in general ])y rcniarkini;, "It ain't no rountry 
 for the white man anyhow, even if j^old is Iht'i'c, 
 wheiH! to live h(^ has to be a-eatin' of fjuininc all day 
 lonju;." 
 
 AVe' eould not but symi)athi/e with one yonn,i;' fellow, 
 wlK)se health seeine*! ('om[)lt'tely shattci'ed, iind who l»ut 
 ei<i,'hteen months bcfoi-e h:id ^oih' np in company with 
 two brothers, but now I'eturns alone, l)Oth the brothers 
 liavinj;; died of fever after sinking- their all, some fif- 
 teen hundred ]»ounds, in fruit less search for "the 
 wealth of Maslionaland," 
 
 AVc crossed the Lundi Kiver on the moi-niiiii: of 
 tlic l!)lh — a tonsil bit of woi-k, takinj^- two si>;ins of 
 thirty-six oxen, pullinu' thcii- liiir<lcst, to ,i;'ct tin; w;i,u(»n 
 thi'ough. The river, though low, ha<l a ^-ood stream 
 runninj^. During" the rainy senson th<' Liindi i-ises very 
 liig'h, and, owinj^ to the rapid/il y of Ih" current, becomes 
 impassaljlo for transjjort waii'oiis, nuiiiy beini;' dehiyed 
 on the bank for months at a time. Then fcN-er, aided 
 "l>y the canteen close i)y, gets in its deadly work. 'I'liere 
 wei-e no fewei' than fifty-seven whit(^ men's graves, 
 mostly on the south siile, made during tht^ last wet 
 season. 
 
 We are now in iMashonaland The landscape grows 
 more hilly and rugged as we move iioi'thward, while 
 the same smooth-fac(;d, rocky ko]>Jies ])re(h;minate here 
 as we notice(l farthei- south. The vegetation on the 
 plains is I'icher, the trees larger, and the scenery in 
 
 I! 
 
 I 1 
 

 
 
 1' 
 
 ,,.« 
 
 (, 
 
 1 " : 
 
 !■• ii • 
 
 ; 1 • 1 : 
 
 ' Ii 
 
 ii !H' 
 
 r! ^ 
 
 51 
 
 ( ;" 
 
 ! i i 
 
 t: ! 
 
 250 
 
 RRAi.iTY yr.Rsrs romance. 
 
 goncml much iiioi-o iuton'stiuj;:; but thorn ftre no signs 
 of cuhivtitiou anywhere, and the few nati.ves who eonio 
 out to tnule seem to set j:,'reat store by their niea<,^er 
 stock of g-arden proikicts. One l^rings lialf a pound of 
 nieaUes in a basket Httk' lari;'er tlian a coffee-cup, Avliilo 
 another swings in his liand one small sweet i)otato sus- 
 pended by a string, and for which they each ask a shil- 
 ling or a yard of limbo, but go away satisfied, toward 
 evening, witii a tableiTpoonful of salt. 
 
 We luive now traveled twenty-three days Avithout 
 seeing a native village, with the exception of the kraal 
 at Matipi's. Through the Xaqua Pass the high, rocky 
 bluffs on each side pi'esent (piite an Alpine appearan(!e. 
 Emerging into the open country, we outspanned, and 
 wer(^ entertained the whole day l)y a concert of un- 
 earthly whoops and yells issuing from a glen Avhere a 
 Mashona kraal lay hid. A big beer-(h'ink was evidently 
 on IuukL We continued our jonniey the sanu^ night 
 through "Providential Pass," where the Pioneer Col- 
 unm was so agrGeal)ly disappointed in not being attacked 
 by Lobengula's warriors; hence the name. 
 
 On the 22d we reached the Torpiani, another hard 
 " river to cross." Last year at this place three prospec- 
 tors on their way to Salisbury had a melancholy experi- 
 ence. The eldest of the pai'ty having been gored by an 
 ox, one of his companions boldly ventured to cross the 
 swollen river on horseback to call medical aid from 
 Victoria. He had reached the ciMiter of the stream, 
 when a crocodile seized him by the leg, mangling it 
 fearfully, and dragged liim down to some reeds, where 
 he lay in a helpless condition all night, doing his best to 
 
 ll 
 
ZlMBABiVE. 
 
 251 
 
 keop the inoustor ut l)jiy with liis revolver. At ddy- 
 broiik his moans hrou^-ht friends to liis assistance, who 
 carried him to N'ictoria. P>ut it was too late; ,i;'an,nr('no 
 
 ■"1 
 
 had ah'euily set in. lie suecumlicd next day, and was 
 hud to rest by tiic side ol' a y(>nn<j: Hnu'lislinian whom 
 fever and linnu'cr liad cnt (»lt' a- few days [n-cvionsly 
 (kind-huarteil countrymen hatl i)Iante(l a few flowo's' 
 on the graves, and ei'ected a jjalisade of sticks to i»ro- 
 tect them from the liyenas), while the comi-ad*' for 
 whose sake he had attempted to ford the river died hy 
 the waysid(\ 
 
 AVe readied Victoria on the morning of th(^ i!4tli and 
 outspanned at the new townshii*. 1 walked hack to 
 the fort, about four miles, for the purpose of [>ickingup 
 Kadirs to ean-y my photo apparatus, blankets, and some 
 provisions, and started altout noon to visit the Zim- 
 babwe ruins, fifteen miles southeast by east. l>y sun- 
 down we were busy cooking our su[>per in an ojx'U 
 space near these marvelous memorials of a gi'eat l)Ut 
 long defunct people. The night was bitterly cold foi" a 
 be(l on the ban; earth, and we had only <'nough lirewood 
 to last a, couple of hours; so we hailed with reli<'f the 
 first streak of day, and got astir stit^' and crampe<l. 
 With dry grass we made up sufficient fire to prepare a 
 cup of hot tea, which had a wonderful effect in reviving 
 our spirits. I then set about seeking points of vantage 
 for the tripod, but found it impossil)le, even with a widc;- 
 angle lens, to get the cui'ions tower within the rotunda. 
 Its position is much confined by high trees and broken 
 walls, while the long grass and Aveeds would require 
 half a dozen men clearing up for days before the cam- 
 
 •;- 
 
 ii 
 
252 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 li . I 
 
 a 
 
 ! t, 
 
 V''. ! :' 
 
 IP ' 
 
 m w 
 
 li 
 
 (ini could 1)0 l)roii<,'lit to Im'jii' succcsstdlly on imicli that 
 is most interesting uiiioiifjj these j^'rund relies of u people 
 whose identity so fur is u mutter of speenlution. 
 
 After tukinuj a view of the rotunihi fi'om the north- 
 oust, wo ijjutherod our trups und climbed to the top of 
 the kopjie, whore the romuins of the un<'iont fort uro to 
 bo fouml. Here ujj^uin wo wore foiled in the attempt to 
 got picturos; everywhoro th«' summit of tlu^ southeast 
 portion has boon built ui)on, und so closely thut one 
 cun onl>' wulk in und out umon«>: th«» nurrow pussugos 
 and small rooms, but nowhere could wo find suthcient 
 distance to foous upon mor(> thun a fmv foot of wall at 
 a time. AVhy those Pha'niciuns, Arabians, or whoever 
 they may have boon, should have crowded thomselves 
 and their stronghold into such a limited space is ex- 
 pluined when in wulkinj^' around to the north side we 
 find the only entrance is thi'ough a crevice between two 
 hu<jje rocks, so small as to admit of but one person at a 
 time ; while the boulders present a perpendicular front 
 about forty foot high, uniting with others of the same 
 character to form a wall across the kopjie almost as im- 
 pregnable to the weapons of modern as it niust have 
 boon to those of ancient warfare. Access from any 
 other direction is impossible on account of the high, 
 smooth-faced, rocky cliff of ninety feet on the opi)osite 
 side, which in several places has been supplemented 
 by the addition of walls from fifteen to twenty foot in 
 height, and built so as to form a continuation of the 
 precipice. 
 
 To those archa3ologically inclined we would recom- 
 mend the book entitled " The Ruined Cities of Mashona- 
 land," by J. T. Bent, Esq., an expert and scientist who 
 
 *: 
 
 1 : i 
 
iMiK'li that 
 of u pt'oplo 
 ion. 
 
 the iiortli- 
 tlio top of 
 fort arc to 
 attempt to 
 ) southoast 
 y^ that Olio 
 \y pjissji^os 
 I sutHcicnt 
 of wall at 
 jv Miioover 
 themselves 
 [>a(!e is ex- 
 'th side wo 
 )t\veeii two 
 :)ersoii at a 
 (.'ular front 
 f the same 
 Qost as im- 
 must have 
 from any 
 ' the high, 
 le opposite 
 )plemeiited 
 nty feet in 
 ;ion of the 
 
 lid recom- 
 ' Mashona- 
 entist who 
 
 11 { 
 
i»T= 
 
 r m *» wi > t < rm ii»ni^piq— 
 
 f* 
 
 
 ! f 
 
 f r i 
 
 
 tn 
 2! 
 
 (/> 
 
 ti 
 
PROMINr.NT rr./tlLRliS. 
 
 253 
 
 
 
 visited th('S(» ruins ii slioft tiiiie np>, Mini from wlioso 
 «l('scrii>ti<m we take the follow iiiu' cxh-iifls: 
 
 "TIm' |H'oiiiiii»'iit I'ciiturcs of lilt' (!rr;it Zinilmltwc 
 niiiis, wliirli I'ovt'i' a lar^v area of uromid, an-, lirslly, 
 the lai'n'c circular ruin with its round tower on the ('d«;e 
 of a gentle sjojie on the plain lieiow ; secondly. I he iriass 
 of ruins in the valN'y inunediati'ly hciicalh this; :ind 
 thirdly, the iuli'icate fortress on llie y,i-anite hill ahove, 
 a<'tin^ as the acropolis of the aiicieut city. These wo 
 will now discuss in their order. 
 
 "When we reaclie(l theOreat Ziinhaltwe the circular 
 I'uin was on the inside a dense mass of tropicid ve<^-eta- 
 tation ; creepers and iuoid<ey rojM's hunu in matted con- 
 fusion to ilie tall ti'ees, forming;' a Jungle which it was 
 almost impossible to i>enetrat<', and added to the ma/y 
 labyrinth of walls a i»eculiai' and almost awe-inspii-in<^ 
 mystery. 
 
 " Jt was tlio work of somo <lays to clear this otH" with 
 the aid of native workmen, whik^ at the same time wo 
 proceeded with our excavations in the nei^'hhorhood of 
 the tower and other i>rominent i)ortions of th;.' building. 
 
 "As for the walls themselves, they were neai'ly freo 
 from ve<i;etation, for, owinu' to tli<' absence of moi'lai', no 
 lichen, moss, ov creeper could thrive on them, and thoso 
 few thini;'s which had ])enetrated into crevices were of 
 a succulent character, which formed their l)ranch(,'S to 
 the shape of the interstices. To this fact is due tho 
 wonderful state of preservation in which these ruins 
 are found. 
 
 "What appeared at first sijj^ht to bo a tru<' circle 
 eventually prove(l elliptical — a form of temple found 
 at ]\larib, tla; ancient Saba and capital of the Sabtean 
 
r" 
 
 m\i 
 
 m: 
 
 li'i 
 
 li I 
 
 I « i\ 
 
 254 
 
 RI-..II.IIY ir.RSlS ROMIhCn. 
 
 kingdom in Aviibiii, iind ;it the Ciistlf of Xakjib jil Ila- 
 jar, also in that (.'ountry.* Its i-roatcst lin.utli is two 
 hundred and (.'iglity i'cct ; the wall at its iii^'hcst point 
 is thirty-live I'oct al)ove the ground, and liTteen I'eet at 
 the lowest; its gi'oatest hase thickness is s-ixteen I'eet 
 two inches, and its thinnest point isalu.ut ti\-e I'eet. . . . 
 "The labyrinthine character of the intei-ioi- will he 
 best ii'ras]>ed by a glance at the jtjan. Entering from 
 the north''rn portal, we at once ]thn;g(^ into its intrica- 
 cies. 'J'he great and astounding feature i;- the long nar- 
 row passage heading direct fi'oni the main enti'auce to 
 the sacred inclosnn^, so narrow in ])arls that two peoph^ 
 cannot Aval k abreast; \\\\\\o on (Mtlier side of you rise 
 the stupendous walls, thirty feet in height, and built 
 Avilli such evenness of courses and symmeti'v that s a 
 specimen of thediy builder's art it is without a i)ai.dlel. 
 The large blocks of cut stone usecl in Egypt ian, (ireek, 
 and Roman masonry iriust ha\"e been ct»mparati\'ely 
 easy to deal with as com])ared with these small stones 
 of rough graiMte built in even coui'ses in a cii'cular Avail 
 of immense thickness and height. The idea at once 
 suggests itself that the ]»eo)»lc who erected these Avails 
 had at one time becMi accustomed to build in bricks, and 
 that in the absence of this matei'ial they had jierfected 
 a system of stone-building to i'ei)resent as nearly as 
 ]iossible the ai)p(^arance of brick. Also .inothei- reason 
 for the use of small stones mav have been to enable 
 them to construct the lower and cui'^'cs Avilh gn^ater 
 accuracy. ^Fhe facings of 11h> stomas iwo all uniform, 
 but most of them run back into the Avail irregularly, 
 acting in the same Avay as flirotif/iis in our dry-built 
 
 * EncyclDici'ilia l'iiil;miii<'a. 
 
AN ANCIl:NT S i ROSGHOI.n. 
 
 •_'.),) 
 
 "WJ'.lls at lioiiit' in ])i"(>s('rviii.u- tli(^ Ituildinu' iVoin fall- 
 
 • iii;'. 
 
 Ill tl 
 
 lis iiiiri'ow l»;iss;i,i;(\ al point S is the vo- 
 
 niai'kiil)l«> hole, cxccnttMl with iicrroct iiratncss lliroiiuh 
 the thickest part of the wall, alioiit the actual use of 
 which 1 am iMc to !i,ivc no dctinitc tli;'ory. It could 
 not lia^'c hccn us(m1 for di'ainau'c or dclViisc; an>l in the 
 fortress ahovc tliiMV an' two simil;;r tunnels c(jually in- 
 cxplicahlc, . . . 
 
 " 1 will now ))rocc(^d to describe the hill fortress aji- 
 ]>roacIiin.n" it from tlu^ valley helow. , . . The kopjie 
 itself is of ii'reat natni'al sli'enuth, lieinii' protected on 
 one side liy i^iuantic ,uranite liou'd«'rs. and on 'Ih' south 
 liy a precipice tVom seventy to iiinely fee! in ll(■i^■llt, 
 ami on the oulv accessilile side the ancii'Ut inliahiiaiits 
 
 const I'ucted a wall of massixc thick 
 
 lie 
 
 ii 
 
 kr I hose of 
 
 the ruins Itelow. This wall islhirtceu f<'rt thirkon the 
 summit, with a hatter of one foot in six; it is thiily I'eet 
 liiu'h in parts, and Jh(> tlat causeway on the top was 
 decorated on Ihf ouiside cdi^'e hy a suciM'ssioii ol' small 
 round towers alternatiui;' with tall monoliths. ScN'eii 
 round towers in all we made out, ahout three feet in 
 diamet(>r, and several otln'rs hail hecu destroyeil Ky the 
 fall of a ]t()rtion of the wall. This system of round 
 towers and monoliths prodiici's one (-f the nios; peculiar 
 and uni(iiie forms of decoi-ation I lia\e ever seen. „ . . 
 In one i>lace is a narrow sloping' unlly t'oiir feet across, 
 ascending' hetween two houldel's, and ]irotected. foi" no 
 
 coin-eivalili' reason, li\' six alternate Imttr 
 
 esses ami a, 
 
 wall at the nppei' end, formiiui' a ziii/ai;' ]tassai;'e nar- 
 rowed ill one place to ten inches. Walls of hiiu't' si/.e 
 shut ott" separalt! chamhers. in all directions every- 
 thing is tortuous; every inch of ground i.^^ protectecl 
 
 
- -nrn nnnrninTiiff- ^^~— —— 
 
 V \}'' H^ 
 
 u n 
 
 250 
 
 REALITY yP-RSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 with Inittressos and traverses. Here, too, as in the large 
 eircular building below, ah th(3 entranees are rounded 
 off, and I imagine that iiere we have quite tlie oldest 
 l»ortion of the ruins, ]>uilt at a time when defense was 
 the main object. When they were alHe to do so with 
 safety, they next oonstruete<l the cireulai" tempU; l)elow, 
 and as time went on they erected the more carelessly 
 |>ut together buildings around, whicli I liave described." 
 
 A number of Mashonas have taken refuge on the hill- 
 top, forming quite a hirge kraal, and so far escaping 
 the raidii'g and plundering impis of Lobengula; for no 
 sooner are the Matebele known to Ije on the war-path 
 than the natives betake themselves with their small 
 (•attle through the crevice, where, once inside, three or 
 four .'irmed men are more than a match for a regi- 
 ment. 
 
 By 11 A.M. I had finished my work, and, delighted 
 with our visit to Zim])abwe, we set out for the wagons; 
 but on coming to a brook we remembered that we had 
 omitted breakfast. We stopped and boiled water in 
 our " billy," threw in somci tea, and this served to wash 
 down the bit of brejid Ave Inul saved for this repast. 
 This done, we were; oft" once more. 
 
 The extremes of temperature are so great at this sea- 
 son of the year that it is hard to tell whether we suffer 
 most from the cold during the night or the sweltering 
 heat of the day. We have no time to delay thinking 
 of it, however, as we do not wish to keep the wagons 
 Avaiting; Ave generally like to trek about sundoAvn. 
 
 By four o'clock Ave had coA'ered the; fifteen niil(»s to 
 Victoria, of AA'hich place there is little to say, except 
 that there are several temporarily built stores, and a 
 
 '■I I. 
 i k 
 
FORT yi'/rORlA. 
 
 JoT 
 
 large 
 
 iiided 
 
 oldest 
 
 yd "was 
 
 J with 
 
 heloNV, 
 
 elessly 
 
 ril)0(l." 
 
 he liill- 
 
 icapiug 
 
 for no 
 ai'-patli 
 r small 
 hree or 
 
 a regi- 
 
 :^li 
 
 glited 
 igous ; 
 we bad 
 iter ill 
 wasli 
 repast. 
 
 [() 
 
 Ki 
 
 liis sea- 
 suffer 
 clteving 
 liinkiiig 
 wagons 
 
 wn. 
 
 miles to 
 y', except 
 ><?, and a 
 
 few police of the British South African Company. But 
 why so few are there, no one knows, A foolhardy 
 confidence is phiced by tlie company in the professed 
 friendship and pacific attitude of Lobengiila toward tlie 
 English ; but those who best know the crafty old chief 
 of the Matebelo declare that an attack on the Europ(»- 
 ans is inevitable, and that at no distant date. For, 
 even now, althor.gh Lo-ben is receiving a pension of 
 one hundred pounds a month in gold, his younger 
 braves are fretting like sleuth-hounds in X\\o leash for 
 liberty to — as they say — wipe out th(3 white invaders 
 of their country. A fort has been construct'.}*! with 
 a broken-backed provision-shed in the center, and a 
 trench and breastv\uixv that would be no formidable 
 barrier to the advance of a company of schoolboys, not 
 to speak of a charge of Zulus. Mr. Bent, the arelae- 
 ologist already referred to, comments on this place as 
 follows : 
 
 " In point of fact, the scenery of ]\[ashonaland is noth- 
 ing if not quaint. . . . Fort Vietoriti has no redeeming 
 point of beauty about it Avhatsoever, being placed on a 
 bare, flat plateau, surrounded in the rainy season bj^ 
 swamps. Nearly everyl)ody was down with fever when 
 we got there; provisions were at famine prices — for 
 example, seven shillings for a pound of bacon and the 
 same price for a tin of jam ; and Ww melancholy aspect 
 of affairs w\as enhanced by the hundi'(Ml and iifty sad- 
 dles placed in rows within the fort, which had once 
 belonged to the hundred and fifty horses brought up 
 by the pioneers, all of which had died of horse-sickness. 
 
 "Tlu^ diseases to which quadru]ie<ls are subject in 
 this country are appalling. Oil'' ni;;i! of our ac;|uaiiit- 
 
 t 1 
 
258 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 U\l 
 
 m 
 
 I 
 
 ='=1 
 
 anee broii<z:lit up cig-hty-seven liorsos, of "which eighty- 
 six (lied before h(^ got to Foi't Victoria." 
 
 Four miles niorc, and we rcacli the wagons, ratlier 
 footsore, and a l)it hungry. Tlie oxen are being (h'iven 
 up as \V(^ get into camp. An hour more, and wo are 
 on the trelv again, traveling slowly, on account of the 
 deep sand, grass firi'S sweeping through tlu* sei-aggy 
 bush for miles on either side. Two days of this and 
 Ave find ourselves on a gr'at desert plain, wlien* we 
 look in every direction for some sign of life on this vast 
 stretch of sunburnt earth — in vain. We cannot even 
 obtain wood enough to cook our food, having to collect 
 (h'y ox-dung for this purpose, httle thinking that this 
 was to continue, with the exception of one? or two nar- 
 row belts of thorn-bush and "wait-a-bit," for nearly a 
 hundred miles. 
 
 M ' i 
 
 t vi\ m 
 
OIIAPTEK XIT. 
 
 FROJI FORT VICTOIUA TO IXYA^IAC.V^IBE. 
 
 Fort Clmrtpi'. — A dpscvtcii viliii<r(\ — riiiirtcrcd ('Oiiiiniiiics. — Salislmry at 
 last! — The ■\vpiilth of Miislioiialiuid. — A vcjrotalili' iiiarkot. — The Mrj,'u- 
 incut of tlie upiK'i- ton. — British iiilliiciu'c. — Mi>si()ns in Maslioiialaiid. — 
 A lion-hunt. — The iiarson scores hciivily. — ]*>y Tctc or Sena, wiiich:' — 
 Fantastic kojijios. — Tci'initc mounds. — A narrow cscaiic. — I'oliccnicn. — 
 "Tie him up tillniorning." — Umtaii. — Massii<assi. — Anionj,' thf I'orlu- 
 {fucsc. — A fririid in ncod. — War in tlic llunilii couniry. — liartcrinj^ with 
 the mitivcs for food.- Aliandont'd Avaijoiu . — A in'lmilivc du^'-oul. — 
 Courtoous natives. — Wading the Kuluniad/i. — (ioidngo/.a -Mountain. — 
 Digging for water. — Spontaneous eomljustiou. — Diioljabs. — Lovely sweet 
 oranges. 
 
 WE passed Fort Charter on the iiiglit of June .Ith. 
 This is the place where the company's Pioneer 
 Cohmin endured tlie greatest hardsliii)s, through the 
 mismanagement of the commissariat (h^partmcMit, the 
 men suffering with liunger, witli only an occasional pan- 
 nikin of mealies to appease it ; while seventy per cent, 
 were without boots and clothed in rags, at the same 
 time working their hardest, building the fort, and get- 
 ting the numerous wagons, machines, and guns through 
 the mud. And all for what ? 
 
 The fort is situated on a slight rise on the dreary 
 plain, the only outlook being a vast expanse of white 
 sand. I found two solitary white men in charge. One 
 was running a "gin-mill" in the maga/in(\ but intend- 
 ing to close up in a week or two, as travelers are too 
 
 259 
 
m^ 
 
 I f 
 
 t ■ I 
 
 § I 
 
 
 \l 
 
 
 'J()() 
 
 RRALITY IT.RSUS ROMANCi:. 
 
 U\\\ to iiiukc it j»;iy, the inaiii I'Oiid bcinj;' lately diverted 
 llir()ti,i;li aiiotlier district. 'I'lie other is the tele,urai>h 
 ojM'ratoi', who is in daii.ucr ol' I'orj^'ettiii^' tiu! .Mors(! 
 ai|»hal)et lor want <»!' jtraelicr. 
 
 On the iiiorniii^' of the lOth we oiitspaiiiKMl at ' Six- 
 Mile S|>i'uit." The lar^t' nati\e ki'aal in the \icinity 
 turn, d oiil to he eoinpietely deserted, the natives liav- 
 inj;' (le(l in terror Iroin the oiitra;;<'S <'oininitted npoii 
 I hem Wy white ]»olieenieii. 1'lie e()ol<in,ij;-|)ots, calaltashes, 
 aii<l baskets of the Maslioiias seattei'ed around the 
 liuts were snj^'u'estive ol" hasty lli,i;lit. I walked through 
 union;;' the silent dwellings, .'ind t'oniid in one the de- 
 coniposed eor|»s(^ of a woman, a|»|»areiitly about twenty- 
 five years of a^e, The whole scene was sad and sick- 
 en iii.i;' in the extreme. I'^iirther inl'onnation IVoiii relia- 
 ble source;; only au.i;'mented our horror at t he deorav'ity 
 ol' th(! brutes, who lia<l thus added another blot on 
 Kn^'lan<l's fair escutch<'oii. And yet we lia\'e beard tln^ 
 lio])*' expressed by philaiit liro|iic and ("hristiaii pe(»|»](! 
 ut home that; with the openiiii;' uj> ol" ("eiitral Africa, by 
 lii'itish |)rotectorates and cliartei'e(| compani<'S an en- 
 trance would be seclireil to the heart of this hitherto 
 unevan^'elized ticM lor the ^osjx'l of ('lii-ist. \\\\\ W is 
 much to be feared that not in this ,i;'<'iieration will the; 
 ♦ leep-seated (h"ea<l and })itter hate of the Mashonas 
 toward the white man be ei'adicated, wlieth<'i' he j-e])- 
 resents the church, n'overiina ut, or commerce. 
 
 Dr. (iuthrie, of lioiioreil name, hit the mark when he 
 said in refereiici' to Hritish coloni/ation : '"Not more 
 fatal to the ( 'aiiaaiiiles the iri'iiittioii of the Hebrews 
 than our .ii'rival in almost every colony to its native 
 lioimlation. Wu hiivi; seizetl their lands, and, in a way 
 
 II 
 
• (livt'i-t«'<l 
 
 tclctiTilpll 
 
 he .M()rs(! 
 
 I at 'SW- 
 (> vicinity 
 livt's liiiv- 
 llrd upon 
 iilaltiisln'S, 
 
 mI tiii'ou.u'h 
 lie tllc <!•'- 
 Ill t Weill y- 
 1 ami sick- 
 IVoin r«'lia- 
 (IciD'avily 
 l»i(»l on 
 licanl 111'' 
 an people 
 Africa. l»y 
 ies an <'n- 
 is hilherlo 
 l',nl il is 
 )ii will lli«' 
 Maslionas 
 ler he rep- 
 •ce. 
 
 •k when li" 
 • Xol nioi'e 
 (. llel»reWS 
 its nalivM' 
 (1, in a way 
 
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S/tUSliLRY. 
 
 201 
 
 less lioiKii'jiblo .'ind oven iiKM'ciful tluiii tlio sword of 
 Isi'iicl, Imvc <;iv<'n tli(MH in rctiii-ii iiotliiiiu- Imt ii ui'iivc. 
 Tlioy liavf pcrishctl Im'I'oi'c our vices jiiid (liscascs; oiii* 
 prcscnc*' has hccii tlicir cxtciMiiiiialioii. NOi- is it possi- 
 l»i(' I'oi" a man willi a heart t<> rcail many |tap's of our 
 colonial liistory \vitli(»ut t'ccUn^s of (Iccpcst pity and 
 l)urnin<ji: indij^'iiation. They remind us of the sad hut 
 true woi'ds of Fowell Buxton. 'The dai'kest <hiy,' sai<l 
 that Christian i»hihinthropist, 'for many a lieathen 
 Irihe was that winch lirst saw the white man step 
 upon its shores,'" 
 
 By S.:')!) P.M. wo aro on tlio outskirts of Salisbury. I 
 walked on ahead of tlio wagons so as to choose a suit- 
 al)l«( })lace where we mij>;ht pitcli our tent. The ni,i;ht 
 was bitterly cold, and the bleak open veldt anythini^ 
 but invitiiiij:. Fearinj;' that we mi<;ht inadvei'tently 
 S({uat on i>i"ivat(^ property, we interroi;afe(l two ^'eii- 
 tlemen on the <pu'stion who w»>i'e passing" at the time. 
 One of them, a (Jerman, liappened to bc^ tli<' ownei- of 
 the land, and most cordiidly sui;'^"estetl oui" taking' ]k)s- 
 session of an unoccupied lint close by, kindly i>hicin<^ 
 it at our service so lonj^ as we remained in the disti'ict. 
 This was a most unexpected but acceptabh^ windfall, 
 as a. hut is warmer in the ni^'ht and cooler in the day 
 than a tent — no small consideration wIhmi we remem- 
 ber that the thermometei' registers up to 00'' V\ midday, 
 and fi-e(iuently o*J° F. at ui.uht. TIk^ wa<j:ons comin*;- 
 u\), our ba,<i;i;'a,i;'e was unloade(l and safely stowed in our 
 new abode. 
 
 Salisbury at last — headquarters of the Bi'itish South 
 African ( 'oni])any, and the most northei'ly jtoint reached 
 by the i*ioneei' Column in 1S!)2. The business shanties 
 
2G2 
 
 Rl:.-U.IIY rr.RSlS ROMANCE. 
 
 m ^ 
 
 ui'c built ulojjy; the hase of iiii isolalt'd kopjio, foi'iiiinjj^ 
 one loii^' street, wliilc on tlic opposite side of tlir valley, 
 and about u mile distant, ai'c situated the ollici.il liuts 
 belouy,iu,ii; to various' departments (»!' the ^■ovei-iiineiit, 
 tiie military camp, and the public hospital. At preseut 
 there seems to be sta<;'natioM in eveiy line of business 
 in Salisbury. ^liners are discouraji'ed over the tifty 
 I>er cent, of tlieir "linds" bein<;' claimed by the coin- 
 pauy, and ar(> leavin«]f for pastures new, while tliei-e are 
 l)ut few cominj? in to take tlieir places. Lar<;e con- 
 si«'nments of liquor and provisions are being piled ui> 
 at the <Ioors of tlio traders, until they have now more 
 than sutHcient to supplj' the needs of the small coiu- 
 nuuiity for several years to come. Bankruptcy is the 
 order of the daj'. Sales by auction are held twice a 
 week, where ijoods are sacrifice<l at less than their orig- 
 inal cost in the colony, so as to I'ealize sulhcient to meet 
 present demands. All this has caused a deploraltle re- 
 action, aiid those who have extolled "the inconcei\'able 
 Avealth of Mashonaland" as " impc^ssible to <'xa,ii',i;'erate" 
 an' in worse than bad odor with the unfortunate inhab- 
 itants. Every other niyht indignation nieetin,i;s are 
 held. At one of them the foliowiiii;- cable^rani was 
 fornmlated and dispatched to the dii-ectors in Eiiiiland: 
 "In cons(Mpience of the sta,s>iiatiou in this countiy 
 throu^ii'lt the company's fifty-per-ceut. char<»'e, a full 
 repi'eseutative meetiui;' was held on the 11th inst., 
 strouii'ly i>rotestin<>' a<;'ainst the claim, which is to the 
 detriment of the country's pro.aTess and of the welfare 
 of all iidia1>itants, and r(^spectfully Imt firndy request- 
 inc; an immediate reduction to teu \^oY cent." 
 
 The crudest deception of all seems to be the (uicour- 
 
/I inGF.TAtiU: M.IRKET. 
 
 )i\'\ 
 
 L'() 
 
 n<?in«? of faiMiKM's witli tlicir rjimilics to in'k From tlio 
 south to tlit'st' lii^hlaiuls, with the itiomisc i)^ thou- 
 KJUkIs of JKTt'S ol' (illc t'jU'MUlIU' <'<>uiitry IVcr. No <»uo 
 lookiiii:: out on th" Wrcarv wastes Wf hjivc traNi-rscd 
 <luriu«;' the last t'orty-tixc diiys (Mtuld hopi' to <>arii fVcu 
 a l);if(' liviu<;" fVoni the arid soil. (Jood ci-ops ol" wheat 
 or uTaiu it certainly Avill not yield, except in the few 
 iow-lyini;' spots on the i»aid<s of the sjiruits, and these 
 oidy Kallir-coi'ii oi' mealies. \\v laive talked with sev- 
 eral white men who have put tln^ inattiM' to the test dur- 
 inu' the past two vears with results almost ii'il. Pota- 
 toes hav«' been planted, hut they no so<,>n«'r lieyin to 
 form than the white ants eat them olV; and this t<'rniito 
 occupies (»nly the best land. 
 
 AVe were invited by one of the authorities (who, hav- 
 in<;-, r.s he said, largi; stakes in the country, tries to look 
 hopefully on its future) to visit the V(\uvtable market. 
 
 We did so. 
 
 ja(d\ass ( 
 
 ■ould 
 
 have carrie(| aw;iv ;' 
 
 II tl 
 
 10 
 
 pirden ])roduco dis})layed without beinu' overloaded. 
 1 leavi' tlu! roaih'r to draw his own conchisions as to 
 the productiveness of the soil from the fact that a small 
 l)asket of i)otatoes uot much biu^vr than Avalnuts was 
 offered and found jmrchasers at two shillinus per itound. 
 To obtain anvthin<;' like farminu' lands we must leave 
 the hiu'h veldt and try such districts as lie east and 
 
 •theast of Vict( 
 
 the Mt 
 
 Valli 
 
 Far fi 
 
 nortiieast or \ ictorui or tne .Mazoe \ alley, lar irom 
 Mashoualand l)ein,^' even a fair average country for 
 farming, none but those who have "an ax to grind" 
 in booming it will sjieak of it other than as a failure 
 for such ]»nrposes. Tiiat there is gold in the country 
 thiM'e (^an be no question, and for those who are willing 
 to risk their lives in an insalubrious clime to find it 
 
; ■"^ '- 
 
 /1i 
 
 i ir 
 
 I 1' 1; 
 
 i i 
 
 Ml 
 
 .1 
 
 I I 
 
 !l 
 
 204 
 
 Rr/1IIIY r/iKSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 Ilici'c is IK) (loiiitt ji, I'litiir*^ of Homn promiso; but as for 
 mi^lit t'lsc, if is hut jiiiollicr "South St'ii huhhlc" 
 
 Iiiiportt'd (lonK'slic inrmifils jii-c sliort-Iivcd, iiiul tlioso 
 iii(lix't'ii<»ii>' to lilt' country arc coi-i-cctly <lcscril»c(l hy Mr. 
 IJcnt tims: "The characteristic of all dotiicstic aiiinials 
 in Miishoiiahiud is thcii' small size. 1Mie cows arc^ less 
 lliaii oiir (Juei'iisey hi'ccd, iin<l ^iv(! very little milk; the 
 sliee[> and j»:oats are diminutive ami unhealthy looking'; 
 the hens ai'e ridiculous little things, and tluur e,nj4's not 
 mu<'h hin'^'er than pigeons' e,n'<;s at home; as for tlu^ 
 <lo,i;s, they aro tho most eontemptihie specimens of the 
 <'anine race I liave ever seen in any of my wand«'rin<;s. 
 This does not look avoU for the prospects of tliu agri- 
 culturists." 
 
 1'he great argument "tliat tho country is new, that 
 mucl) will yet bo accomplished, but we must await d(!- 
 velopments," and hiying s])ecial emi)hasis on tla^ ben- 
 eficial results accruing to every country' that has tho 
 good fortune to bo under British inthu'uce, serves but 
 to rennnd me of a circumstanco that is rei»orte(l to have 
 occuri'ed Jiere a short time ago. Two miners on com- 
 ing uito Salisbury had treated themselves to a few bot- 
 tles of " (Jlenlivet," retiring to their hut to consumer 
 them; and when no longer able to maintain their 
 ('(piilibrium, one asked the other, "How do you feel.'" 
 "IVel!" was tho reply — "1 fool — that I am under tho 
 sphei'c — of British influenco." 
 
 On the 14tli, accom])aniod by Dr. Kand (to meet with 
 whom so unexpectedly hei'o was a mutual joy, having 
 known «^acli other years ago in Jamaica), I returned to 
 Six-Mile Spruit, for the purjioso of taking some photos 
 of the village, to find nothing but a mass of bJackonod 
 
 111 i\' 
 
nUSHMlN 'S DRAU INGS. 
 
 205 
 
 ruins. We dniw our own «M»MclusioMs t'roju tliis, and 
 I'i'^rt't lifiviu;;' itrcuialurfly s|>oki'ii «»!' disrovcrin^ tli«» 
 liody of ii woiMJiii in one ol' tin- huts, as iMlcrcstcd |tar- 
 tit's iiad d(^ul»tlt'ss .j;'ot. wind of this; hciicc thr f\i(h'nt 
 inccudiai'y. SiM-cial far<' had Im'cu taken to srr that 
 th(* l)Ui'iiiii^ of the hut with the hody was dono thor- 
 ou,u:hly. That it was not the result of a Itush lii'c was 
 luanifcst from thu ftu*t that the j;iass for several yards 
 round the hut wus iinHcatiied. On removing' the d<''l»i-is 
 and exposinj;' the remains of the woman, howe\rr, Di', 
 Uand found the hones in sullieient form to enable him 
 to eorrohorato my statements. 
 
 While' ramblint;' in tlie husli a short distane*- fi-om 
 this plaee, Dr. Kand drew my attention to an over- 
 han,i;'in^" rock uiuh'r wlneh was a hn\ue stone, its Hat 
 HUrfaeo literally eovere( I with hushnien's drawings, very 
 ancient and interest injj:. The artists, as a i>eoi>le, have 
 Ion*;' since disai>peared from IMasliomdand, altlio.''h 
 sixjcimens of their work are to he found in many dis- 
 tricts, particularly in the Mazoe Valley. They rei»re- 
 sent, generally, wild animals and all s(^rts of game, 
 battlo scones, etc., and are done in colored pigments, 
 red, black, and yellow predomimiting. Unclose ins[)ec- 
 tion the pigments appear to have eaten into the rock; 
 hence their preservation. 
 
 TMie week spent at Salisliury passed very rapidly and 
 l)leasantly. Making the acquaintance of the leading 
 people of the district was a material hel)» to my gath- 
 ering infornuitiou on points of importance to intending 
 emigrants. 
 
 I met " Major " and ^Mrs. P of the Salvation Army, 
 
 who came up about a year ago willi the intention of 
 
U 1 
 
 HMi 
 
 ■' h ' 
 
 I i 
 
 !l' ' 
 
 2UG 
 
 RE/IUTY VERSUS ROMA>JCi:. 
 
 cstablishiiip: ii iT'cniitiui'' ct'iitcr, hut so i'ar without suc- 
 cess; tlic chiss oi' men found in niininm' cainps rt'scut 
 l)('inj^■ sou;;ht after l»y tlic Army. The "]\rajor" seems 
 to l»e an inlehigeut iiiau, l»ut lias only a I'aint liope l!iat 
 some (lay in th(i distant future tiiey may he ahle to do 
 somelhin<;', should the [M-ojects in liand for the <'ouutry 
 succeed; otherwise the field will lia\'e to he ahandone(l. 
 The (Miurch of England has also a re[»resentative hei'e, 
 though there is no church or meeting-house yet; Init 
 a few pe()i)le ou Sunday mornings attend a service held 
 in a small hut. 
 
 ^riie most successful and entiM'pi'ising mission is tlu^ 
 Wesleyan jNFethodist, uiuler the su[»<'riiitenden('e of the 
 liev. Isaac Shimmin, an earnest and energetic mission- 
 ary, who, although in Salishui'y less than two y(»ars, 
 has su<'ceeded in building a very neat little cha]>el, 
 seating ahout two ]iundre(l, and opened a fortnight 
 ago, free of deht, most ct' the money having heeii suh- 
 scrihed in the district. It Avould he liaid to find ;i 
 more suitable man for such a s[)liere. His manly, 
 frank, and honest beaiMug has won the eonli<lence of 
 the whole community; )tut it draws the line at going 
 to chui'ch; very, veiy few tui'u out to the services on 
 Sunday. 
 
 On Wednes(hiy eveiung, by ]-e(|uest, I lectured in the 
 cliapel to a- full house on the subjc-el of my joui'iiey 
 from the West Coast; and probably nevei' again shall 
 I hav(^ the opportunity of addressing an audience so 
 entii'cly composed of those who couM Ix'st a])pi'eciate 
 an a('<'ount of the trials, privations, and dangers inei- 
 (h'lit to African travel, every indi'/idual man being in 
 a position to sympathize more or less Irom actual 
 
A LION HUNT. 
 
 2(57 
 
 t SllC- 
 
 •est'iit 
 ■;»'(MUS 
 1- llmt 
 to <i«> 
 luutry 
 loiu'tl. 
 ' her*', 
 t; Init 
 •0 held 
 
 is tho 
 
 of the 
 
 lissioii- 
 
 ycars, 
 
 liii]>('l, 
 
 rlnii;lit 
 
 •u SUl)- 
 
 (intl ;i 
 
 uiiiuly, 
 
 MIC*' (»f 
 
 ^oiiij;" 
 liccs oil 
 
 ill llio 
 lounu'V 
 111 shall 
 ■lice so 
 hrccialt' 
 Ivs iiM'i- 
 [('iiii;' ill 
 actual 
 
 «'Xp(M'i«'ii(*(». A liberal ('olicclion was inado at the close 
 towai'd the soiitiiij;' of the new huildiiiu'. 
 
 The iiiissioiis in MashoualaiKl, iiowcvcr, so far, an* for 
 Hio <»vaii,u'('lization of the Kiiro[M'aiis; no ett'ort is heiiiijj 
 put forth to reach the natives, 
 
 A few weeks a,i;o Mr. Sliiuiiuiii scoi-cd lieavily a,ij:;aiiist 
 four or live Icadiiii;' si>ortsnicn in the town, who. in 
 resjionse lo the re<iuest of sonic natives of ;i distant 
 viihiiA'e tliat the Avhite men nii^iit conu* and kill u lion 
 which was takini;' off their inea,i;'er flocks of uoats, 
 ari'an,t;'ed for a hunt. Mr. Shinimin fonneil one of the 
 party, in spite of an ill-disguised protest on the part of 
 the hunters to u "paion" .u'oinu' <»n such an errand, 
 aiitici[tatiii,ii-, of course, that a man of the " cloth " would 
 he in their way. The hush where the lion was said to 
 he lurkiii.t;' hein.n' reached, a very shoi't time elai»sed 
 hefore a low urowl r(:veale<l his whereahouts. immedi- 
 ately several shots were iired at raiKloiii, which served 
 only to enraj;'e the hrnte, and with a hound he char.u'cd 
 his assailants, who took to their heels, with the excep- 
 tion of the " parson," who stood his ^roiiud with his 
 rifle at the "ready." ^riie moiist<'r sprang- on the iiind- 
 uiost of the lleein.i;' sportsmen, l>rini;in,i;' him to the 
 ground with fearful force, and inflict ini;' a i;liaslly 
 Avoiind in his leu'. 
 
 'or an instant the lion, wi 
 
 th 1 
 
 lis 
 
 i'orepaws on the prostrat*' man, I'aised his head to look 
 urouiKl, when ]\Ir. Shinimin, taking' steady aim, i»lante<l 
 a hnllet in a vital spot, rollim;' the beast over — dead. 
 
 ic iiian was sax'ed 
 
 )ilt wliei'e Were Ills comrades 
 
 T 
 
 ^riiev came l)ack on hearinii' t'le shot, shoutinii' with 
 
 si'i'eat au'itatioii 
 
 ^v 
 
 lere 
 
 \V 
 
 lere IS il 
 
 )v rni 
 
 i i 
 
 parson" pointed foi' answer to the inaiimate carcass. 
 
^lifit^imiisamim 
 
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 2G8 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 It has beon a treat to meet so many friends in this 
 far-distant land, but we must be on tlie move h.ome- 
 ward. Two ways are open to us, viz., by T(^te to Blan- 
 tyi'o and Nyasa, or r'la UmtaU to Sena and up the Bhire 
 Kivov. Wo have tried onr best, backed by the iiiflu- 
 enee of Mr. Doyle, the interprcjter, and others, to get 
 carriers for thf first route; ])ut no money will tempt 
 them to go. A few Shanghans came and booked, giv- 
 ing me a little hope of getting tln'ough l)y what would 
 have been the shortest Avay; but ;it the last moment 
 they backed out. The fact is, tlu; company have been 
 sending down policemen in that direction of late, to 
 punish recreant chiefs for infringement of its laws by 
 burning their villages, and to wliicli Mr. Bent refers: 
 
 "A fin(^ of cattle had l)een imposed on the chief, 
 accompanied by a threat that if the fine was not paid 
 by a certain day the kraal would l)e burned down. 
 
 The fine was not paid, and Major , with a band of 
 
 men, rode out to execute the orders, borrowing two of 
 our horses for the occasion. As we passed through the 
 village the ashes of huts and granaries were still smol- 
 dering, broken i)ots and household goods lay around 
 in wild confusion, and all the inhabitants had taken 
 refuge at one of the neighboring villages; As we passed 
 by this, it is needless to say we did not meet with an 
 altogether cordud reception. We dismouiited and went 
 among them, asking in vain for l)eer, eggs, and fowls. 
 The jNForunko (white men) had taken them all, they 
 said, and they received our overtures of friendship with 
 silent and, as we thought, ominous contempt." 
 
 As a result of this, carriers from this side unpro- 
 tected naturally fear retaliation. 
 
Is in this 
 ve liome- 
 » to Blaii- 
 tlie Bhii-o 
 th(3 influ- 
 I'S, to got 
 ill toiiipt 
 •kod, giv- 
 lat Avould 
 
 moiiieiit 
 ave 1j(h^ii 
 f late, to 
 
 laws by 
 refci'!>; : 
 lie chief, 
 not paid 
 ^d down. 
 ^ band of 
 g two of 
 ongli tlio 
 ill sniol- 
 
 aroiind 
 id taken 
 '6 passed 
 with an 
 md went 
 d fowls, 
 all, they 
 hip with 
 
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 ir'S-- ,5"^:«- ■^-' -^-i^" ^ 
 
 TERMITE MOUNDS. 
 
 2G9 
 
 Failing the Toto road, I tako tho noxt best, via Vm- 
 tali, wliioli has ouo advaiita<2;<* : transport for the first 
 liunih-cd and ninety miles ean be done by bnlloek- 
 wafjon. 
 
 On June 10th wo left Salisbury, I iiiii nol ;ilJoi;vtlu'r 
 disa]>p(>int(Ml at l)eini>; oblig(Ml to take this tlircctioii, ;;;; 
 I shall have an opportunity of seeing riiitali and Icai'n- 
 ing something of Maniealand. The road gets more di- 
 versified the nearer we approaeh Maiiica. Some of llic 
 gorges and eanons are very fine, and the rocky kopjies 
 present most fantastic and pc^'uliar features. At a dis- 
 tance the rugge<l peaks appear like ruins of ancient 
 castles or monasteries so famjliar to tourists in Italy; 
 otherwise tluT have the sanu' characteristics as those 
 observed south of Salisburv, consisting ot' masses of 
 solid granite^, and almost void of vegetation. 
 
 It is remarkable that with the granite^ kopjies appear 
 also the huge ant-hills such as we last saw beyond the 
 Kwanza. Tlu /e have been many doubts and a gi-eat 
 deal of speculation expressed by travelers as to whether 
 thes(^ mounds, so numerous, and varying in size n[> to 
 eighteen feet in height, and even a gr(vitei' diameter at 
 the base, are the work of ants at all. This is excusable, 
 in a measure, on the West Coast, where tlu^ activity of 
 the termites has eeased constructing such memorials of 
 their existence, probably for centuries; but hei-e there 
 can be no doubt on the subject, as during the <hy sea- 
 son we ol)serve a number of chimn«^y-like structures, 
 from a few ijiclx's to two or thi'ee fe<'t in height, and 
 averaging ei^ht iuclies in dinmet''!*, on the mounds. < )n 
 closer inspection we see the ants, all ali\'e, workir.g tiieir 
 hardest, bringing from helow th<' pai'tlv'les of earth of 
 
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r 
 
 II 
 
 
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 II ( 
 
 270 
 
 Rl-AUTY yi.RSi'S ROMAKCli. 
 
 wliicli the ImiMiiig is coiupostMl. Tliey go on nnintcr- 
 viiptcdly until the wot season, when tlio rains break 
 <lown their edilieesof untempered mortar, and so rtr/ hi- 
 Jiiiitinn inerease, year ])y year, the proi)ortions of tlie 
 great ant-hihs, that in sonic districts appear at a dis- 
 tance like the eonieal root's of so many native liuts. 
 
 Tlie journey to Umtali occnpie<l only t'lcven (hiy>, 
 and there were l)ut tew incidents worthy of note, ex- 
 cept, i»crliaps, tliat T liad rather a narrow csctipe fi-oii; 
 what in many instances lias t<'rininated I'.itally to either 
 man or beast, sometimes to both. As game is only 
 found some distance from the road, tlie transport rider 
 in cliarge of the wagon having witli liim two good 
 horst>s, one or otlier of us was accustomed to go out 
 every day for a hunt wliile outspanne(L On tlie 28tli, 
 near the Odzi River, in company with a 3'oung gentle- 
 man holding the official position of the company's for- 
 ester (like us, ho was bound for Umtali), I started as 
 usual for the bush. After riding some miles we raised 
 an antelope and gave chase, clearing the narrow sluits 
 and spruits at a good gallop; but, unfortunately, in at- 
 tempting to head off the animal I took a course that 
 led along by the side of a brook to leeward of a steep 
 bank and near to some reeds, among which the buck 
 disappeared, Avhen my horse plunged headfirst into a 
 ganie-i»it. These wretched traps in this part of Africa 
 are exactly like an ordinary grave, about seven feet 
 long and five feet deep, and a little over two feet wide, 
 but narrowing down to a few inches at the bottom, 
 which generally bristles with sharp spikes, although, 
 luckily, not so this time. It was so well liiddtMi with 
 long grass that I could not see whether we had got 
 
' ! 
 
 POLICEMLN. 
 
 Til 
 
 [••('lltlo- 
 
 ; fov- 
 h1 as 
 aisod 
 sluits 
 in at- 
 tluit 
 stoop 
 buck 
 into a 
 Afrioa 
 n toot 
 wido, 
 ottom, 
 longli, 
 with 
 lul got 
 
 in hroadsido or longtlnvays of tlio liolo. I was not 
 
 kopt long in donbt 
 to free liimse! 
 
 for tlio li(,)i'S(> iiiado a sec 
 
 'ond 1 
 
 (lunire 
 
 md down we went togotlior, jainiuiiig 
 my logs against tlio sides of tlio i»it. llai»pily for Itotli 
 
 and I niaiiau'od 
 
 of n> 
 
 tlic ii'roniid was soft and looso. 
 
 to ('Xtricat(> luysolf in a short I'nio l»y knot-kiiii;' in 
 the hank at tlu^ ond with the? hntl of my rifle. Tlio 
 ])ln('ky animal with a strngu'le snocecdcd in ,i;vtting 
 clear of the hole, l»nt was too !'!'ii;'ht<'!ied for mon^ gal- 
 loping ovei' thu veldt that evening, so wo had to return 
 to the wagons. 
 
 When about three treks from Salisl)ury, a cin'um- 
 staiiee came under mv notioo that eonfirnu^d in a u'reat 
 measure rejioils I had heard of the doings of some 
 of the IJritish South .Vfrieaii Company's poli('(\ .Veer- 
 tain captain with thri'i- men, who had been sent toai'lti- 
 trate soiiK^ matters with th(^ natives in the .Mutassi 
 district, Avere returning to headcpiarters, when they 
 overtook on the road four ]\lashonas drivini;' two small 
 oxen. On seeing policemen ai)proacli, of whom they 
 had heard onou<;'h to make them di'ead a closer ac- 
 
 qu 
 
 lintanco, thev, of cours(\ ran off into the bush 
 
 whereupon, according to tlu^ captain, who was my in- 
 formant, the police put s[>ui's to their Ikm'scs, I'ode down 
 one man, whom they tie(l u}) on the s[)ot, and bei;-an lii-- 
 ing on the others with their 3Iai'tinis, Walkini;' some 
 distance in advanc<' of the wagon, I found at a wayside 
 lint this nobh; band of Englishmen, who siMMUod to 
 think they wore doing valiant ser\'iee for their (^ueon 
 and country by attaekinn' four harmless and defenseless 
 Kaffirs on the public road. Th<' night was very cold, 
 but there, outside, sat the Mashona, secured by an ox 
 
Hill 
 
 t \l 
 
 272 
 
 RHAUIY yEKSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 roiiii tiiMl round his wtiist ; while iusiiU' was the cai)taiii, 
 .s\V('arin<; roundly at his mcu foi- th"ir had sliootin;^, 
 ■sviio ill tutU excused themselves on the <i;rouiid that it 
 was dark, 
 
 I couh' in <" make out why h'' n'anied to murder tlio 
 ualivo •, i.u'l isked t.)r an ( A[>lauatioii. " Why," he re- 
 |)1) L '''h'V were about no .uood, or they would not 
 iia\% in j.'v y wlien they saw us eomin*"'. Brinu' in 
 
 the tVIIow, inieVj^ireter, and ask him what the inudo 
 
 him I'un.'' 
 
 "CJreat chief, I was frij-'hteued." 
 
 e were you gc^ing': 
 
 " Whei 
 
 "(Joiuu;- to my kraal," 
 
 ') n 
 
 "AVlicn^ did you get the two oxoni" 
 
 "I don't know wliere they came from, I only over- 
 took the l)oys wlio Aver(^ (b'iving them a sliort time be- 
 fo.",' we saw you eoniinu', lint I believ(! the cattle liad 
 strav<'d and were? beini'' brouii'ht Imek to their owner, 
 the chief of staat." 
 
 " Take the I'ellow outside, and tie him up till niornini;-, 
 when we'll see about it; meantime, let me have a glass 
 of whiskey." 
 
 Such ;"cenes are of too frequent occurrence, and could 
 English i);'ople but know the treatment received by na- 
 tives at the hands of some of their filibustering rej^i'e- 
 sentatives in Africa, a more humane system of extend- 
 ing l>ritish rule would si)eedily Ije inaugurated, while 
 some who aspire to be classed among the heroes of the 
 Dark Continent would lie tried at the Old Bailey for 
 their lives. The ^Magoma case has yet to be brought to 
 light, but "murder will out," 
 
 We reached Umtali on the moridng of June 30th^ and 
 
:'/• UMT.-IU. 
 
 -.!•> 
 
 leui'iK'd tlui<" u few weeks ago a waj»oii I'oad had Ix'cii 
 
 rloured 
 
 Massikasi- 
 
 I decidt'd to dcl'tT tli 
 
 cloureu as lar as xuassiKassi. i (leciiU'd to (Icici' inc 
 cari'i T ([Uestioii until we jjjct tln'i'c, and proceed tliitluT 
 with my stufY by wagon. We stayed only one niuht in 
 this village, which dill'ers hut little from such places as 
 ]\Iacloutsi<' or Fort Victoria. It is situated at the Iwise 
 of a large kopjie, and consists of some i wo do/en wattle- 
 and-daub huts, every third one dev '1 to tlus sale of 
 driidv. 
 
 When within some six miles oi TJniCuli, and aftei* 
 crossing the Odzi, v/e noticed a ' iv jji irked change in 
 the nature of th«» soil: no more saiid/ wastes, bn lich 
 red earth or l)lack loam. Th» ^''..n'V kojijies gave 
 place to long ranges of mountains forming the great 
 Manica gold-belt, and, ju<lging from the general con- 
 figuration of th(^ country, it 1)ids fair for farming, al- 
 though the uncertainty of the seasons must always 
 remain a great drawback to large investments in that 
 direction. 
 
 The evening of July 1st saw us trekking towar<l 
 Massikassi. For the first two ti-eks the I'oad was fairly 
 good, as we were mostly on the grassy plains ; Init the 
 l)alance of the way was simply execrable, the ti'ces hav- 
 ing })een very carelessly <*ut (h)wn, leaving stum[)s two 
 feet high. Every five hundred var<ls there are ravines 
 from thirty to fifty feet deep, with sides so abru))t that 
 though the brakes were screwed home until the wheels 
 stood still, the wagon would plunge; forward with a rush, 
 shrouded in a cloud of dust, at a speed that threatened 
 to ci'ush th(» oxen and end in a general smash-u]i, and 
 giving ris(^ to the fear that we should soon have noth- 
 ing but the pieces to collect of both oxen and wagon. 
 
(pi' 
 
 f,:' 
 
 i i 
 
 hI 
 
 
 li 
 
 
 ii ' 
 
 
 . i- 
 
 
 J 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 It : 
 
 ! 
 
 274 
 
 lil:AUTY //y/e.SVAs- ROMANCli. 
 
 Tlio next four miles was ovor rougli vcMt, aMionj:^ 
 great rocks and sluits, where no attempt liatl hecn made 
 to jM'epai'e the way for wagons. Wo sucieeeded in reach- 
 ing Alassikassi safely on the morning of the 4th. This 
 jilace commands a view ai)proaching tlie nearest to 
 Scottish Highland scenery we havo struck in Africa. 
 To the W(»st, long ranges of hills well clad with vegeta- 
 tion, Avhilo eastward widens out before us the l)eautiful 
 valley of tlio Rovue, hounded on the north and south 
 h^; mountains rising to the height of six thousand feet. 
 Wo find here, besides the [Portuguese village, where 
 Captain Andrada and Connnandant Ba'tencourt Avith 
 several suh-offieers are quartered, the camp of the Eng- 
 lish Boundary Conunission, consisting of eight oihcei's 
 Itelonging to engineer regiments. ]\rost of them are 
 absent surveying, and not likely to return before Satur- 
 <lay. This handicaps me, as they, with the; i*ortuguese 
 Conunission, have taken all the available carriers that 
 <'an 1)0 depended upon for long journeys, such as In- 
 hanibani^s and Sofalas ; natives of ]\ranica are cowardly, 
 and would bo almost <'ertain to desert on the road. 
 
 I passed the interim in submitting to a c(mplo of 
 sharp attacks of fever, and when Avell enough accepted 
 an invitation to dine with the commandant, whom I 
 found vei'y genial and hospitable. I spent one evening 
 at the old Portuguese I'ort, about .i mile down the val- 
 ley, now in charge of the Compauha Mozanil»ique, who 
 retain an Englishman, a Frenchman, and a Portuguese 
 as their re|)resentatives. It is some seventy vears since 
 the Portuguese built this fort, and their right or claim 
 to this part of Manicaland was never disputed until a 
 few months ago, when the British South African Com- 
 
I i 
 
 !i 
 
 AMONG rur. roRTLcirsii. 
 
 27.') 
 
 Itaiiy took It into their licixls to Iti'iiin' down ji lot of 
 |iollco with u Miixini ^un nnil ;i s.'vi'n-poundcr. Thry 
 postocl themselves on a neiiihltoiini;' kojijje .-md nu-n- 
 acod the fort. The result was a most unjnstilialde jiniit, 
 in which the Portii,i;uese were dereiited with heii\ y loss, 
 their fort captuivd by the company's men, and hy tliem 
 looted. This hijiii-handed proceed inu,', lio\ve\ei-, w;is 
 severely censured l»y the l-limiish home ^o\ernment, 
 and the company withdi'ew. The I'oi't was repaired, 
 and is now the very picture of pejice and tran(|uillity. 
 A fmo fj;'urdeii occujiies the open space in the intei-ior, 
 and bananas are tlourishin*;' all around the stores and 
 dwellinj^s. 
 
 On Saturday the commission reiurne(l, and the Por- 
 tu<>;iiese captain most readily exj^-essed his williimness 
 to assist nu! "with men, and by Tuesday morinni;' had 
 collected scvcntcfMi carriei-s, lendiiii;' me at the same 
 tinio several of his own servants to act as guides. This 
 is a small caravan, but ([uite suHicient for my few 
 belonj;'ings now. Tlu; dilliculty of obtaining' carriei's 
 seemed so serious at Salisbui-y, that I, having' l)ecojue 
 iiiur(Ml to exposure and hardshi}), decided to minimize 
 uiy outfit. Fii)din<i: that pointers can now be paid in yold 
 or rupees, I disposed of a quantity of my cloth and l)nlky 
 trade <i;oods, also uiy tent, so that 1 have a,ii:ain to sleep 
 in the open, as on the journey from Zambesi to Pa- 
 lachwe, where the halts at night were too brief to allow- 
 of pitching the tent. 
 
 As eight of the porters are natives of (}orongoza, a 
 country through which we have to pass, it was thoughl 
 advisable to pay their capitao (headnum), but to retain 
 him at Massikassi as a hostage to insure their al)iding 
 
 ^^frxifft.^f^l'" 
 
 6aBiisaaatiatfaBiririn-gnTl~illiirillirirf1iirBia'Tii'i' 
 
(^ 
 
 PI ' 
 
 
 II 
 
 ii M 
 
 PI! 
 
 llli 
 
 li7(i 
 
 KI.II.IIY lliKSUS ROM/INCi:. 
 
 liv tlii'ir 'diitr.H't ; (»tli('r\\ isc tlirv woiiM proli.'iWIy Iciivi' 
 iiic ill till' liirt-li wlii'ii iir;ir ilicir lioiiics. 'I'Ih' otlii'i-s 
 Wt'i'i' iiiiti\<'s <)\ iiiliiiiiiltiiiif .-iml ht'Iimo.'i l»iiy. 'I'Ihi'c 
 is oiH' \'('ry sjitislnctory itfiii to lie noted licrt-, nninrly, 
 
 that nolle ot' these liiell jiTe shl\es ill the Ol'dJlliirN' iie- 
 eeptatioli of thi' terill. e.\ee]it ill s< t far as they are the 
 VasSills of their res]»ect i\'e chiefs. They eoliie of tiieil- 
 
 own freewill from the eojivt and distant parts of the 
 'aorth eolintry to seek elll|»h)ynie||t of the Portuguese, 
 and are well jiaid for llieir lalior. l-'or the three weeks' 
 journey to Seiui they each uet thirty shillings in ^old, 
 and I (iiid them in food Itesides. 
 
 On the l.'ltii of .luly we set out from ]\Iassikassi, tak- 
 in,u' a eoiirse «lue east, alt lioiiiiii our most <lireet route 
 
 Avould iia\'e 1 II tiiroiiiih the lliimlii country to the 
 
 Avest of the ( ioroii<;'o/,iiMountaiii. I5ut we were under 
 tile necessity of i;i\iiiu' that country a wide liertli. on 
 account of its disturlMMl condition, arising' from the 
 recent war Itetweeii ( ioN'eia and .Makoiiilx', in whicji 
 the former was kille(l, with a ,!:re;it iiumher of his fol- 
 lowers. The natives lieiu', so ela1e(| o\-er their \ictory, 
 ^^•e wei'e advised uot to attein[)t .u'oin.u' ihrouuh, hut 
 to cross tlie Puiiii'we River at ]\Iakaka, a huii<lred and 
 eiulit miles eastward. 
 
 The path was uarrow aud le<l thronu'li tall .u'rass for 
 most of the day. We made hut sixt(M'U miles and 
 campeil for the uiulit. Our order of march here differs 
 soiiK'what from that on the West Coast, '^riie l*>ilie;m 
 uiakes au early start and travels until aliout uooii, when 
 he halts for the day aud proceeds to pr<'pare his hut, 
 with as uiuch car<' as if he iuttMided to take U[t his 
 ahode there for ii vear instead of a ui,uiit. Here it is 
 
 11: 
 
ily li'iiv<' 
 r olllfl'S 
 . Tllriv 
 
 iiniiH'ly. 
 iiiiir\' iM'- 
 *■ ;ii'f tin' 
 ■ of llii'ir 
 
 Is of III." 
 
 I'ttliiUCSI', 
 
 ■(' Wfcks' 
 ill ,u<»M, 
 
 assi, t;ik- 
 
 I'cl I'Olitt' 
 
 y to lilt' 
 I'c iimlcr 
 
 irrt ll. oil 
 
 'loin llic 
 11 wliicli 
 
 his r..i- 
 
 \i<'tt)rv, 
 
 ii, II 
 
 ut 
 
 lr.'( 
 
 I iilid 
 
 lt.iss 
 
 fov 
 
 lies iilin 
 
 I'C ( 
 
 lift".'!-: 
 
 IJiliciiii 
 
 |>ii. wlifii 
 
 liis lint, 
 
 ii[t his 
 
 're it is 
 
 iir^- 
 
 ^l-.-..'*Jass<«,«P>«5Ul'- 
 
 ^I^^^^P^iii 
 
! ih 
 
 M-| 
 
 1 ■!: 
 
 * .' 
 
 Ml 
 
 i ■ 
 
 P 
 
 ii' 
 
 i'l f: 
 
RAR.rnRING FOR FOOD. 
 
 277 
 
 sovon o'clock before^ tlicy yvt on tlic ti'uck, nnd they 
 <i'() on for ten miles and stop for hrrakfast ; two lionrs' 
 rest, and another ten miles' march hcfoi-e snndown. 
 There is no hnt-bui'ding', noi- even a skenn, hut i;-()od 
 fires are kejit u}) all ni<>'ht. This is fsscnlial to our 
 .sid'ety, for all this region abounds in lions. Xo sooiK'r 
 <lo we compose ourselves for the niuht, wi'a)t])cd in our 
 }>lankets, three oi- four of ns stretchc.l out around each 
 lire, than from every i)oint of the com]tass W(> hear tlu^ 
 hun.u'ry roar of th(\se surly l»rut(^s as th<'y seem to invite 
 ea<'h other to cond)ine in an attack upon us, every min- 
 ute' connui:,' neai-er, uidil within two or tliriM* hundrccl 
 yards, when they iie down and wait their chance sht)uld 
 our iii'es bui'n low, kindly remindin^u' us of their prc^x- 
 imitv by Ji continuc^d r(M)etition of low uruids, l>i;t in 
 spite of this we art^ too tired to keep awak(^ all niu'ht 
 watchini;'; a certain nund)er of men ar<^ therefore told 
 of¥ foi' sentry duty and to kei^p U}) the (ires, each man 
 takin^H' a sj^'ll of two hours duriiii;' the ni<;ht. 
 
 On the second day we made a loui;' nia)'ch of tw.Mity- 
 
 five miles, as water was scarce^ 
 
 but 
 
 were rewar( 
 
 led r 
 
 or 
 
 this extra exertion when we happened at last upon ji 
 clear I'unninj;' brook. 
 
 By noon on the Idtli we arrived at Chimoia, wliero 
 we ha<l to lose a, couple of hours buyinj;' meal and ric(> 
 for the m<'n. In the west rations ar<' served by an 
 allowamH* of cali<'o for a certain numbei- of <lays; but 
 liere We have all the botlv>"i' o'l' 'iradin- with the na, '."■''• 
 as cloth IS not in so much demand, and thev want a 
 
 varietv ot ii'oo( 
 
 Is r 
 
 oi 
 
 leii- food-stU 
 
 iVs- 
 
 -I'ed wlllte-eve 
 
 l»eads chietiv, saU, handkei-ch 
 
 CIS. eu 
 
 A - 
 
 oo(| (leal ol 
 
 rice IS <;rown m these < 
 
 istricts, liut verv little else 
 
 !','4.i,» "' ♦.ikil'j^iiftfe'jl 
 
r'\ 
 
 278 
 
 REALITY VF.RSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 I^'i \V- 
 
 ill ;;;r 
 
 i 
 
 it; 
 
 ' m! 
 
 except Kaffir-corn. It is not that the soil is poor, as 
 in most parts of Africa where "vve liave been, but tiie 
 native seems to liavo no ambition in tlic victuiilin^' line 
 beyond nnish, and a bit of game, when he can get it, 
 Manicaland is a rich conntry, not only in gold, but in 
 tin; ('ai)abi!iti(>s of the soil; any tropical products would 
 thrive! well if given •' chance. 
 
 There is no very distinctive tril)al mark among the 
 Manicas aud coast natives, except that the men have 
 i\w lolte of Ijoth ears slit and in the hole carry their 
 snnft'-box — g(»nerally tlu^ empty shell of a Mai'tini car- 
 tritlg(\ The Avomen have the npper lip pierced, and 
 insert a hvid or silver plug with a Hat round top on tl;e 
 outside, like a reversed collar-stud. 
 
 AVe iwo now in the tsetse-lly belt. We passcnl seven- 
 teen wagons to-day that have l)eeii left to their fate on 
 the veldt for several months — the result of a rash vent- 
 ui'e on the part of a company to transport goods from 
 IJeira up into the interior. The* 'Mly" kiUed oft" the 
 oxen, numbering some four hundred and valued at 
 seven pounds each, and so the wagons, of an averagt^ 
 value of one hundred and tliii'ty ponnds, had to b<> 
 abandoned. Most of tlieni are now so dilapidated 
 and scorchc'l liy bush fires that it would not pay to 
 remove them. 
 
 ]\ri-. lient, in describing his journey to the coast east 
 of the point wliere we turned northward, writes: 
 
 " luijii^ e\ iuv'';.'"' '**" !!''.-' ra\-ages of this venomous in- 
 sect (the tsetse) are visible on the roadside. LVt/ens ot 
 wagons lie rotting in tlie veldt, Ijearing melancholy tes- 
 timony to Ihe failur<' of ]\ressrs. IIean(>y and Johnson's 
 pioneer scheme. Evei'vwlici'c lie the bleaching bones 
 
 I IL 
 
ABANDON HI) IV A CONS. 
 
 117!) 
 
 s poor, as 
 
 11, l)Ut tlio 
 liiliii^' lino 
 an ,ii,('t it. 
 1<1, Init in 
 Lots would 
 
 nion<j^ the 
 ncn have 
 iiTV tlicir 
 rtini car- 
 rood, and 
 op on the 
 
 cd Rovon- 
 ii' fate on 
 ash vcnt- 
 ods from 
 I ott" the 
 ahiod at 
 avorag'o 
 
 l(] to 1)0 
 
 |ai>idat(>d 
 pay to 
 
 last oast 
 
 lions in- 
 
 I>/.('1IS ol 
 
 loly tos- 
 |l 111 son's 
 1 tones 
 
 of the oxon which dra<::<:;od tlioni ; and at ]\Iandi,i>'<> 
 is an al)andono(l Imt lillod to ovortlowin*;' with th*^ 
 skins of these animals, awaitiuj; tho fnrthor develop- 
 ment of the Piin,i;'we tralKc to ho convortod into routes, 
 or rc'iiiis, as tlioy are nsiuilly loriiio(l in South Africa. 
 Fully two thousand pounds' worth of wa,ii'(>ns, wo ( al- 
 culatod, as wo i»assod l)y on one day's march, lies in tiic 
 voldt, <.;'liost-lik( , as after a Itattlo. 
 
 "Then then' are Scotch carts of more or loss value, 
 and a handsomo Capo cart, which ^Mr. Rhodes had to 
 al)andon on his way up to .Mashonaland, contaiiiiiiu' in 
 the hox-soat a hotllo laholod 'Anti-tly ^Mixture' — a 
 parody on the situation. 
 
 "But the greatest parody of all is at Sarinento itself, 
 a Portuguese settlement on the l)anks of the I*un,uwt\ 
 Here two handsome coaches, made expressly in New 
 Hampshire, in America, for tho occasion, li(^ dosei'te(l 
 near tho Portuguese huts. They are richlv ]iaiiiteil 
 with arahos(pios and pictures on the panels. ' PuiigW(^ 
 Koute to Mashonaland ' is written tlioreoii in letters of 
 gold. The oomfortahlo cushions inside are heing iiioth- 
 eaton, and tho approaching rains will coni[>lete the ruin 
 
 of those handsomo l)Ut ill-fated vehicle 
 
 M 
 
 eanwiiilo 
 
 the Portuguese stand hy and laugh at tli<' discomlitiire 
 of their British rivals in the thirst for gold. i'iVeii tln^ 
 signhoard, with 'To Mashonaland,' is iii its place. And 
 all this elahorato preparation for the pionooi- i-oute has 
 he(>n rendor<'d aliortivo hy that venomous little insect, 
 tiie tsets;'-(ly. Ill his zeal to carry out his contract, 
 Major .Johnson committed a great error and entailed an 
 enormous amount of miseiy when h<' telegraphed that 
 the Piingwe route was open, and circulate(l advertise- 
 
 liiljkvk^ <ii' <<i>« 
 
1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 m ■ 
 
 
 1': 
 
 ii '■ 
 
 
 1- 
 
 'i r ' 
 
 
 1 '■ 
 
 1 ■ 
 
 ' 
 
 1 
 f 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 I 111 
 
 \' 
 
 
 i'fc 
 
 280 
 
 REALITY yURSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 monts to tluit eft'ect, giving dutos and lioiirs which were 
 novel' ('{irried out, 
 
 " Houps of people, for the most part poor an<l impe- 
 eunious, liocked to tliis entranee to tlioir Eldorudo, an<l, 
 after waiting w'ithout anything, and in abject misery 
 at CMiimoia, liad to return to Mapanda, wliore the con- 
 dition of affairs was desi)erate — people <lying of fever, 
 the doctor liimself ill, antl no food, for the Portuguese 
 governoi" of Nev(>s Ferreir.-i, Colonel Madera, boycotted 
 the English and forbade the natives to bring thein pro- 
 visions. Assistance was brought to them by Dr. Todd, 
 of the Manldcunc ; but many <U(m1, and the rest, disnp- 
 l»ointed and penniless, had to return to Cnpe Town." 
 
 We reached Makaka early on the 18th, having aver- 
 aged twenty miles a dny from ]Mnssikassi. We give 
 the boys a rest and cross the l*ungwe to-morrow. 
 While waiting at this village, the fact is <lemonstrated 
 to us that " woman" is l)y no meiuis to ))e considenMl 
 the "weaker vessel" here. On expressing surprise at 
 the absence of the usual lounging men around the 
 kraal, while a whoh^ crowd of women weiv busy stamp- 
 ing corn and singing their liveKK^st songs, the reasim was 
 given that this being ilie harvest time, the women had 
 their hands full of woi'k ; and that as thi' men persisted 
 in idling all the morning, and constantly getting in the 
 way of their wives, the latter seized sticks and (piickly 
 made a eleai'ance of the male sex, who had sense enough 
 to off<'i' no resistance, seeing they were very nuicli in the 
 minority, but wei'(^ impi-essed with the pai'ting v)rder, 
 that they were not to return without pel-mission. 
 
 The river PungW(> here is about a hundre(l )ards 
 bioacV ;.nd ))resents a beautiful view from this point 
 
A PRIMITIVE DUG-OUT. 
 
 281 
 
 lookiiiij: down tli<' strojiiii, its iiuiiiy wiiidiiiijcs IxMii"; soi^i 
 toil <:;ro{it (listaiicc sliiiiinit'riiii;' in the sunsliinc, and the 
 ovor]ian<i,"in<;' ti'ccs rcilcctcd on tlic liusmn of its clear, 
 
 A\' 
 
 th 
 
 <'0ol waters, we crosseii early in llie niornini;" in a 
 very i)riinitivo dn,n-ont witli the outlines of a booin- 
 oraii^, the ori<;'inal shape of the tree, and pro<M>eded on 
 onr jonrney toward Sena, takini;' a course a litthi east 
 of north. 
 
 Wo stopped at ^NFahute for lireakfa^^i, and I liad a 
 lon^' palaver witli the natives, who were exceediniily 
 polit(3 I'lid respectful, the headman brin^'ini;' nie a jn-es- 
 enl of meal and a fowl — a plain proof that white men are 
 rare in tlies(^ jiarts. Oui' faces and arms i;'et pi-etty well 
 soratxdied by the _i>'rass, which becomes still more rank 
 and tall, in some places reachinj;' a lieiu'ht of fourteen 
 feet. The hixuriousiu'ss of veu'etation here is remai'k- 
 
 Ole. 
 
 Tl 
 
 10 immense 
 
 liekls 
 
 of corn now beini;' rea} 
 
 speak volumes, not only foi- the land, but foi- the dili- 
 gence and industry of the women, wlio ai'e, with few 
 exceptions, of good physicpie, and possess by no means 
 unpleasant featun^s but for tl disiigui'enient ol' the 
 upper lip. They contrast a- widely with the poor 
 Mashonas as do tlieii- resiieci ■' countries. 
 
 A sort of light bamboo grow - in great abundance all 
 along our route, valued higlr by wagon-drivers in the 
 Colony as whip-sticks. I ,- sur])rised to si'e, whih^ 
 
 passing through a kraal, 
 
 a >ii 
 
 all boy spinning a rough 
 
 top, whipping it u]) with giv'at vim by means ol' a bark 
 whip. I woud(M'ed if the 
 
 Hh ;i was oriu'nial w 
 
 h 1 
 
 iim. 
 
 I fi]id the natives we meet on the path oi" in the villages 
 very civil. The wom<>n make an awkward atttMiipt at a 
 curtsey as we pass, while the iMon salute l)y pei'formiug 
 
 '!^iS!^^mi^^^ 
 
Wj 
 
 \h 
 
 r i; 
 
 Hr :tl 
 
 •y « 
 
 
 RI:ALITY VERSUS ROMASCF.. 
 
 ii kind of (loultlc-sliulHo with tlioir feet, readily aiiswov- 
 iu^' any (iiicstion, and I'n^qucntly jieconipanyin<i; us long 
 distances to uuidc us through tho intricacies of tho 
 numerous liT.cks. 
 
 They imvikh'c a veiy superior bark-cloth l»y cutting 
 from a soil of fig ti'ee large felt-like masses of theltai'k. 
 After soaking i1 in water for u short time it is ham- 
 mered with wooden mallets on a sniootii log. When it 
 is heaten out ({uite thin and all tiie holes ueatly mended, 
 l)y the aid of a very primitive native needle and fine 
 fil)er, it is again beaten with, a mallet on which lines 
 are cut, givhig tho finished cloth a riltbed a})pea ranee. 
 If the portion of the tree from Avhich this layer of 
 bark has been taken is bouiid up lightly with plantain- 
 fiber, a new bark forms in process of time. 
 
 Since crossing the Pungwe three days ago we have 
 bcH'U gradually ascending; but now, following the base 
 of tho Gorongoza ^NFountain, our highest altit uU' has 
 been reached, and we now begin to d(>scend, keeping to 
 the ridge of the tablelancL AVater is plentiful, and we 
 come across villages every few miles. On the plains to 
 the east, buffalo, eland, and zebi'a are to be found in 
 great numbers; but they keep clear of the hills. 
 
 On tli(^ evening of the 21st we crossed the Kulumadzi, 
 flowing southeast. The stream was low enough to per- 
 mit of our wading it, its width being about foi'ty yards. 
 ])Ut the sceuei'y every Avay we looke<l was bewitching 
 — the water coming noisily down from the hills, rush- 
 ing and dashing among tlu' numerous big boulders that 
 occupy the river-bed. AVe linger to rest for a while on 
 the bank, so refreshing and cool it seems aft<'r the long 
 day's exhausting march. We have just emerged from 
 
 ilM^ 
 
GOROM'.OZ.l MOUNI.IIN. 
 
 'JS3 
 
 the gloomy soinlx'i'iioss of tlic pr'miovnl forest, tliroiiu'li 
 ^vhic*ll wu have been traiiipinn- for over live hours, and 
 wliere the rays of the sim could scarcely pierce throu,i>'h 
 the dense and tan<iled lierhai;'e — the gigantic cable-like 
 creepers festooned aiuoiin' the branches, parasites of 
 enormous j^Towtii clinj;in^- to the ancient timbers, when* 
 stillness rei«j;'ned unln-oken by even the twitter of a bird 
 oi' the sou^li of the ^vind, 
 
 Next day our ]»ath lay throu.uli a more open country, 
 and the soil is no lonL;'er lilack loiini, Imt chan^'ed to 
 rou<i,"]i marl, the small pebl)les causini;' the carriei's to 
 com}>lain much of son* feet. The ^'rass and undcr- 
 j;"ro\vtli are sliorter, and the ii'eneral aspect of the coun- 
 try is not so pleasing as it h:is l)een for the past few 
 days, (ioronn'oza ]Mounta u is now behind us, and wti 
 liave on our left the hills of ^Fasara. 
 
 AV(? crossed the river Xymandura about 9 a.m., and 
 ]ialt(Ml for breakfast by the beautiful ^Munedeze. l-'oiu- 
 hom's more brought us to (}oveia,a Portuguese vill.ige 
 nuich the worse for wear. The resident representatives 
 of Portugal an* three men of middle age, tlu' tallest not 
 exceeding five feet four inches in height, an<l all of a 
 very despairing appearance, with a sort of ealni ;ind 
 resigned expression on theii' faces, ijie result, I snj»- 
 pose, of eight or nine years doing nothing. They kindly 
 proffered us the use of on<' of the five lai'ge mud houses, 
 once oftieial resitlences, but for years unoceujiied, ;md 
 crund)ling back to mothei' eai'tli. As some of our e.-n-- 
 riers belong to this district we gave all a day off, con- 
 tinuing our journey on the 'J4th. 
 
 We have had no water foi' ten miles, and th(*n ()u]y 
 a small stagnant pool ; nine miles more, and we ob1aine(l 
 
 ^^m^ 
 
 t ^^i^^*^^hM'&'^&i^^^M^^mMv0i ■^' ^5 
 
Ill it' 
 
 f M 
 
 fl 'i^'r ■: 
 
 !| ?!' 
 
 liM4 
 
 REALITY yizRSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 ii little 1)3' (li^^<,nii,i;' in ii diy riv<'r-l)(Ml. Wo snw at a 
 ioli^' (listii)i(M' lai'nv luM'ds of jiiitclopcs. Evci-y where 
 there is evidence u\' plenty of .liiiiiie, ineludiiiu' elei)hjnit ; 
 l)nt as the season I'or ,i;Tass (ires has heeun, the laruer 
 aiiinia's lia\'e liecn di'i\'en east. Another iii(»ntli the 
 youn^' li'rass will he si»riiii>'in,u', and they will return; 
 so tiiat liei'e we have one of the finest huiitiny,'-groiuids 
 in Africa, within tea days ol' the sea. 
 
 We i>asse(| several small \illa.ues during the day, l»ut 
 all desei'ted, owint;', pi'ohahly, to the scai'city of watei', 
 Ol" ]ierhai)s the late war. Soon after starting;' on tlu; 
 nioi'uin.u' of the 'jrttii, wi' ci'osse(l several small streams, 
 after Avhicli we I'ound no water for twelve miles, and 
 then only hy dij^'ginu'. On campin.i"' the same opei'ation 
 had to ho repeated l»efore Ave could u'et enough of the 
 pi'ecious fluid to pre^tare si;j't','i". .\t this place 1 ob- 
 served somi' women dyeiui;' white calico hlack. l»y means 
 of a, Jet-l)lack Juico exuded from the pods of a tree; 
 and, jud,u'in,i;' fi'om the cloth worn l»y the ])eoj)le, that 
 Ijad heen submitti'd to the process, the dye seems to 1)0 
 Itei'maneiit. 
 
 July 'Jlith. llaviu.u' slept last niulit in a hollow, w'o 
 found ourselves suri'ounded by a thick fo_u' this ]norn- 
 iui!,', and by noon fever came on. 1 sto[i]ted at a villa.uo 
 to buy meal foi' the eari'iei-s. A.uain a headman bi-ou^'ht 
 out a line larn'e basketful of meal as a i)reseiit to the 
 Avhite man. I i;ave him a jackknife in retui'u. The 
 altei'iioon march was \'ery hard; what with the liot 
 fe\-er and not a di'ojt of wat<'r for fonrte(>n iniles, it ^\•as 
 n.o piny, ^riie men wei-e ci'yin.i;' out t'or meat, but ex- 
 haustion comp-'Hinu' me to lie down by the wayside 
 every mile or two, I wa;i (juite unable to go into the 
 
 !i( 
 
 ;* ! 
 
, f^mfffrnf^* ' >tr^m^it^' 
 
 ^ siiw at a 
 ^'^vcry where 
 n' elephant ; 
 , the liil'.uer 
 lliulith the 
 
 vill return; 
 
 il|o--o'l'()Ull(ls 
 
 ilie (hiy, hut 
 ty <>r Avatei', 
 tint-' on the 
 uiU streams, 
 ' miles, and 
 lU opei'atiou 
 ouu'h ol" the 
 place 1 oh- 
 'k, l»v means 
 
 (> 
 
 r a tr 
 
 re 
 
 ])e())iie 
 -eems 
 
 , that 
 to he 
 
 hollow, wc 
 
 this ]norn- 
 
 at a villa.ue 
 
 laii l)i'ou,i;'ht 
 
 'Sent to tin.' 
 
 'tni'ii. 
 
 Th 
 
 lith the hot 
 liles, it was 
 
 (■a 
 
 t, hut ex- 
 
 |he Avaysido 
 'O into the 
 
 i 
 
 
 W*^^ MiMMM^^^%M^ 
 
 ^kssil^'-^'^A 
 
f k 
 
 l,ll 
 
 If' 
 
 B ' 
 
 J, 
 
 f ■' 
 
 ," •' 
 
 i'.i 
 
 
 1 - - 
 
 
 
 
 ' Tip mi 
 
 H 
 
 ^..irf^'; 
 
.SV^O.V /■ /.V/; ( )/ ;S COMliUS 7 /ON. 
 
 i>s: 
 
 bush nl'tcr ^aiiic. Fortuiiiitdy, liowev^T, I si^^litcd u 
 fine buck j^n-ji/iiiti;' about a huii(lvf<l and lit'ty yards from 
 the path. On raisin^' my I'illc my liaiid sliook so jiiu«'h 
 tliat I liad to lean against a Ircc to steady iiiyscH*. 
 1 fired one shot and (h-oppcd him, hut had to Icavo 
 tilt' carcass in ciiar^'c of my ii'uii-cai'i'icr until the men 
 HJiould coUM> up, for m}' moutli and lhro;d fch astliouuii 
 it wouhl bo a case of sitontaneous combustion if I did 
 uot roach wntor soon, i\t hist Me arrived at a viHa^'e 
 wlioro a native took me to a hole, five feet dee{», dui;' in 
 
 tho sand, with altout half 
 
 gallon of wati'r in it — not 
 
 very ni(;e, but never more ap[>reciate(h 
 
 The 27tli was another tiiirsty <hiy, thirteen <h'y miles, 
 but th(! sconi'ry ma<inifieent. With the exception of the 
 first twenty-five miU'S after loavin;i;' (ioveia — of i-oui;h, 
 stony, rather sterile country — the rest of the way has 
 ])een a. perfect })anorama of h-auty, with numerous 
 fine pahns and ii'ijiantic baobabs. 'J'he hitter peculiar 
 ti'ce, to which nature lias heen so lil)eral in the mat- 
 ter of trunk and so stin.uy in allowance of branches or 
 foliage^, yields larj>'o pods containing!,' a substance tasting- 
 
 lil 
 
 -co cream 
 
 of tartar, and i:s often called the tartar In 
 
 But tlu; troo that appeareil most sti'ikini;' was a kind 
 of larjA'o acacia, callecl Ity the natives " n jerenjere." Its 
 bark is very smootli, bri,i;']it sea-u'reen in color, lookin.i;' 
 for all the world as if it had been li-eated to a coat of 
 "Aspinall's enamel" from the roots to the tips of tlu; 
 smallest branches. It is used by tlu' river men for 
 nuikin<;' paddles, and by all natives for ])roducin,u' fire. 
 Almost every man carries a piece of this wood ahout 
 with him, and when he wants a blaze he bor<'s a hole 
 in tli(> chunk, in which he places a little tindei' or 
 
 |}, 
 
 ►Is 
 
 < I 
 
 i^s;^^.. 
 

 IMAGi EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 V. 
 
 
 /.. 
 
 * % 
 
 
 ir ^ 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 Ul 12.5 
 
 ^ 1^ |2.2 
 L£ 12.0 
 
 us 
 
 ik 
 
 
 1.25 ||U 1.6 
 
 
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 6" 
 
 ► 
 
 V 
 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 
 «■ 
 
 33 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 
 
 (716) 873-4503 
 
It: I 
 
 28G 
 
 Rl.ALlTY yERSUS ROM. -INCH 
 
 J i \' 
 
 \ I 
 
 specially prcparod hurk, and tlicii, insfrtin^' a strai^dit 
 sti<'k, whieli ho holds against Ids li«'a<l, l>y an in<:;('id<>iis 
 aiTaii;,'<'iM('iit of striiij^ he twirls the stick and in a short 
 time smoke is seen to rise. 
 
 About sundown \\\\ n-achcd tlic vilhi^<' of Inyania- 
 fandx', a dau^litoi- of tlic late ( lovciji. Tlio chirf l»rou<;ht 
 us somo Icnions and a ])ask<'t of l<)v<'|y sw('<'t oranj;<'s, 
 the first wo liav(^ soon in our journoy. T notic«'d with 
 KH'at ploasnro a clump of lordly man.i^o troos, all in full 
 bloom, making mo think of Jamaica, as these were the 
 first 1 hud seeu siuco louviuy; home. 
 
 I ii 
 
tr Ji straiixlit 
 
 CHAPTER XTTT. 
 
 FROM SKNA JO lU.ANTYUE. 
 
 IJivor (Tiift. — On tin- Sliir<''. — Tln' WissniMiiii <'\|>i'i|itiiin. — Liindo)] nt Ciii- 
 roiiio. — 'I'roiildi' witli Hit Miijfstv's ciistcms. •• WIml is lo-djiy .' " — 'I'lif 
 cliict' of Mlicwc. — A (Ift'i'iisflfss |Mi>itii)ii.— Itliiiilyr-c. — .Mii,'lil is rii;lil. — 
 Mis^'iiiilrtl iiH'ii. - I'oyi'dltfil. — Wild liiiiliiriniil imis. — ( 'ipiirl iui; u iiiiiiiyi's 
 di'iilli. — Dr. Kllinwoiid s|ic;iks. — Almriivc jisciiicisin. — l'"ailii ciiif. — 
 ('lifai* iiiissiuiiarifs. — I'our fi-oiiuiiiy. — A I'oi'figii Iriiini). 
 
 TO my intciiso Siitisr.-ictioii we i-fiicln'd Sena l»y four 
 o'clock oil the uf'tci'iiooii of .Inly -'^tli. l''ivc 
 iiioiitlis jii^o I left tlio ZaiiilM'si at I\a/,iiiij4ula, ami now 
 sec its broad waters a^aiii, Itiit a j^ood deal iiear<'r lioiiie, 
 tliaid< (Jod! It lias taken fifteen days' a<'tual mareliini^ 
 to come from Massikassi, a distance of i'ully tlii'ee hun- 
 dre(l miles, givini;" ns aii averaue of twenty miles a day. 
 I am not nni<*li tlii; woi-se, exce|>t that my feet and lei;s 
 are itadly swollen; l»nt my next sta<::e, I ti-nst, will Ite 
 ac'('onn»Iisho<l by boat, and they will ^et a rest. 
 
 Sena lias evidently been a vei-y imitortant I'ortiijjjueso 
 settlement ill days y-one by. It has a lai'<^e, strongly 
 built stone foi't, iniprenuuble to hostile natives; the line 
 old arched jrateway, the stones of wliii-h are time-worn, 
 is an interestinii: specimen of ancient masonry. Tlio 
 town itself is very scattered, and consists of the sub- 
 stanMal <lw<'Hin<,^s of some sixty Portii^aiese inhul)i- 
 tants, and several tradin<j^st(H'es conducted by lianyans, 
 
 •JS7 
 
 I I 
 
2HH 
 
 RI./fl.llY *^/:/<'S/;s KOM/INU:. 
 
 i 
 
 fl f ) 
 
 ji hufflirri.'Ui, find some luill'-hn'*-*! ['oif nf^iK-sc, vvliilf nt, 
 sotiKr <listaii«'<! I);i<-k tli<; \t\w\i pf»j)ij|fitioM liavo t,li<!ir 
 
 IlllfS. 
 
 'I'll*'. i£,<}\'i'V\\()Y VMT lios[»it!ilily iriv'itr'(l rri'- fo st;iy jit. 
 Ills lioiis<r tiiitil ,'ii*f;in;^'<'iii*'iit.s sliouM Ik* rn;i'|c tV»r tlic 
 i-i\<r- J'»iir(M-y, which inviljif ion I ^^liMlly ncccptcrl, {iiid 
 rrmst own lh;if h<' fonM n'tt possihiy hiivf shown rnf* 
 iM'ii" kin<hi'-ss. Alfhoiii^h nn;il»l<' to spcjik much Kn;^- 
 li-h, ;in<l I |c>s Corf n;_Mic>(', wc u<A uhtwii well, jukI I 
 t'oiiii'l him one of fh*! {^cninl, {^'oo<l-n;it ni'cil s((rf. IIo 
 lijis ;i nnmhcr f)!' siiiA'cH in his lion>c|i(,|i|, ;in<l, so r;ir jis 
 J conl'l S''c, trc.'itcij them with much more coiisi«|eriiti'>n 
 
 tilJin some |ie(,|i|e fjo their Ser\;,nlS. 
 
 W'e lijive seen (iJltives holll here JMl'l ,'lt M.'ISsi k'.'ISsi ill 
 
 stocks ;in<l (.'■'»'■'''■-•'-' i''k~, ill! hoii;(|i not cliJiiiierl fo;^ef||er 
 in e-;inj;s, ;is <|escril>e(| l>y Sir .I(>hn \\'ilioii;^liliy ; nor 
 we|-c they ()r'liniirv sl;i\es or l;ihf)rers, hut convict'^ nn- 
 <|ert.'oin;x sentence for j^i'o.-s crimes — poisoiiin;^, jissfissi- 
 mit ion, iiicen'lifirisiri, etc. 
 
 ( met the comnijunliint, r,'ipit;io Moj-, ;in(| f)flieroffi- 
 ci;ii.-. of the ^.'overnnient ;it n <liniier-p;irly, iiiiij the fol- 
 i'lwiii^- e\-enin^' went ont to a yt-vy pretty pkii-e cfilk^fl 
 
 Inl 
 
 i;isc( 
 
 ■reir;i, sitniite(| jihoiit five mi|e> to tiie northwest 
 
 of" .Sen;i, .'III'! rii^ht. on the hunk of ihe Ziimhesi. A 
 jM<l;C" ""'I " 'locfor reside here <\\\\\\\<j i\ few monfliMof 
 fhe ye;ir. 'I'liey jirc h()f li \ery hiiLrhl little men. 
 
 Now for .\'y;is;i! I ch;ii"f err.| \,,y fen <l;iys ;i river 
 cr;ift, t hirt \- feet lontr, six feet he;ini, iiii'l fwo;in<l }l hillf 
 
 eel i|eeM, U 1 1 n .'I 
 
 fh 
 
 comfort;ihle little c;il)in in the jiffer- 
 p;irf . My crew c(>nsiste(| of i we|\-.' niffi ii/rros (pi'MhlJerH), 
 i\ jtffhno (sfeersm.'in), iinij ;i /.'"//////o (|»iJot) ;if fhe how. 
 Hurnhiy hein^ so ne;ir, I dismissed th<;m with insfruc- 
 
IHI: lyiSSM/INN I XI'I.Dil ION. 
 
 L'MI> 
 
 ', wliil*' at 
 i!iv<! tiK'ir 
 
 to stay i\\, 
 <|c for tlif 
 
 (•pt<'<l, !lll»l 
 
 shown irni 
 
 lllicll V.Wii,- 
 
 vcll, jiimI I 
 
 SOlt. Il<5 
 
 1, so Till' iis 
 is'nlt'i'iitioii 
 
 iHsik.'iKsi ill 
 
 •(1 to<_'<'t ll'l' 
 
 <<lil.y; nor 
 )nvi<Ms un- 
 ii^, iissiissi- 
 
 ()tlM'r <'lfi- 
 n<l tli<' tol- 
 
 iliK'*' «'flll<'<l 
 
 norl liwfsf 
 |inili»'si. A 
 irionf liM •>!" 
 "■n. 
 
 ys ii riv«-r 
 iin'l !i liJilt" 
 111.' iil't.'r- 
 (|»!i<Mlfrs), 
 It til*' l»')\v. 
 Ii instni"'- 
 
 tioriH to 1)«' at til*' Itojit on Momlay t?iornin;(. Most of 
 tln-tn pill in an ap|M'aran<'<' ;it tlir Htat'-<l tiiiic, l»iit my 
 jtnh'ii't iia<l j^ot, <lnink on his advanced pay, am' a. s(»Mi«-r 
 wuH Hi'fii l>y the j/ovt-rnor to \vid<<' hini up l»y an appli- 
 cation of the palinatory (a (hit disk of wood with ei;;ht- 
 
 een inches of handle). |',y I> A.M. he WilS soherefl ;i hit, 
 
 and we were aflojit on the Zaiiihe-i n^iiin. 
 
 Two hours' r(>win;; and we tinned into thi- Ziwiziwi, 
 pro;;i"essin;( slowly on aceouni of thf many siindliank.s. 
 I shot two crocodiles with exjdosive liullits, hittintc 
 them ri;^ht, hehind the shoiildi-r ;is they hiyon tlieMiuij, 
 
 One meiisiU'e(| fifteen feet si.X inches, the other fourteen 
 
 feet. liy 10 A.M. 
 
 on I iiesdiiy inornine: we ennie out on 
 
 the Shire Ifiver, and hejided iipstrejim. 'I'ln'fe is ap- 
 parently little dilTerence in size hetween the Shili- and 
 the Zambesi ; the current of the former, however, is the 
 sfron}:;er. Tliei-e is nothini; to he seen of much inteirst, 
 
 except i he <'r()co(li|es, some ot theni monsters; ;i hippo 
 now and aj^ain shows himself, hut. they ;ire fewer here 
 now than in formei- years, the stciiiiiers havintx <lriven 
 them higher up. l''or two days the land on either side 
 has heen low and swampy, with reedy hanks and very 
 nialarioiiH. 
 
 Au^ist.'M. lieachirij^ F'ort Herald, I was invited to 
 }»re)ikfast, i>y the administi'ation aj:;eiit, from whom I 
 leafiied that, Kinall-pox ha«l lnokeii out amone; the 
 men of the (iei'inaii expedit ion, under .Major Wissmann. 
 They are now <'a,niped a, short dislatici! down the river, 
 where Mi(!y will prohahly he delayed for some time, tho 
 river at present tiein;^ very low, and their har<;es, • 
 
 •\c 
 
 drawing too iniiclj water. I understand that the tdip 
 jtOHc of this party \- the phicin'r- of a steamer on Lak< 
 
r 
 
 \n i 
 
 L'DO 
 
 Ri:.ii.ii y ii K.^i s i:oM.:sa:. 
 
 'I';iliu;ili\"ik;i, t'of ilif silppri >>:(ili d' tin- >lav«'-t l';i<lt'. 
 Wliiitt'Ni'i- iiuiy 1m' ilic jir(>tccii\<' iiilliii'ii<'<- cxin'ctril 
 t'rniii the jn't'sciicc (if ;i st I'.-iiiit-r <ni ill"' l;ik<', il \\<)iilil 
 sci'ill lllilt tlir liic.islll'cs lo lie ;iil<)]>t«'il ill ^vl t i lii;' it t luTt' 
 jii'c iit)t likely lo lie pacilic t(>\vai'<l tln' iiali\<'s. \'r<t<'i'- 
 (lay a u't'iitli'inaii fxin't'ssfil to an oftiiii- ol' the cxiH'di- 
 titiii a ln>|n' that llif iiatisfs m rmih miulii ln^ I'oiiiitl 
 ri-i('ii<liy. " l-'rii'inlly ! " wji'^ t In- Mircriii:r i"i'.i<'iii'lfr, '* 1 
 liiucli in'clVi- tlii'iu liostilf, \nv tln'M \\i' li^lit tiit'in and 
 lake what we want : whereas when they ai'e I'rienilly we 
 have to pay I'dI' exei-ythin^'. I sim-ei'ely IidJh^ we shall 
 have some (in'htinLi' soon, as I want to i^et my men in 
 li-aininu."' 
 
 Soon at'tei- leaxiiiL:' I'oi't llei-aM we ]ia>seil the ri\'ei.' 
 rarno-steamei' ".lames Sieplienson." I'a-t on a sanlliaiik. 
 Tile sti'aniei's, I unilerstamh liml ui'eat <linieuhy this 
 yea!' in ei.itin^' ii|) ami down, on a'-eount of the shal- 
 lows and snau's. makim;' na\iealion ahuo>t imiKJSsihJc 
 In allot lier t weiity-lour iiours we ai'i'i\ed at ( 'hiroiiio, at 
 the month of tiie l»iio. on tiie eonliiies ol' X\'asaland, 
 liax'inii,' a('('omitlishe(l tlie journey from Sena — a hun- 
 dred miles — ill four and a hall' days. I lia\e had no 
 IrouMc with tlie men : aiul this has lieeii my experience 
 with all the jiorters or lioatnieii emiilt>ye(l from the 
 i'ortuuuese. 'i'hey art' well trained, hard-workiiie". and 
 
 Ciliediellt. 
 
 And now we are in llrilisli teri'itory, I l»elie\-e; liut 
 the kiiowlcdp' of this fact is fraiiuiit willi no thrill of 
 joy to ni<» after what I liavf seen of so-call<'(l British 
 rule and inlhioiicc in AlVicn. T had no sooner stejijx'd 
 jisliorc than I was accosted by an oflicial of Her ^Nlajes- 
 tv's customs with "Aiiv (hvarms, sir.'" " Ves." I '•»>- 
 
 IIS III 
 
>liivt'-ti'inl»'. 
 
 •s t'N|ii'clt<l 
 
 o'. it Would 
 
 iiiu' it 1 lifi't' 
 
 •s. ^^■<tt'I•- 
 
 tlic rN|..'«li- 
 it Im' I'oIIIkI 
 
 joiiiilfr. " I 
 
 t tllt'lll iiinl 
 
 fririKlly \v»' 
 
 )|ic Wr sluil! 
 
 my iiM'ii in 
 
 .•(1 th<' rivfi- 
 ;i s;ili.lli;ilik. 
 
 lliciilty lliis 
 
 ,\' the sliill- 
 
 iii'.jKtssililt'. 
 
 ( 'liinnHo, at 
 
 Nyasalaiiil, 
 
 iia — a liuii- 
 
 ia\i' lia«l IK) 
 
 y cXpcficllrC 
 1 tVolU tll<' 
 
 .<>fl<iiii:'. ;iinl 
 
 kTk'Vc; l>nt 
 
 IK) thi'ill of 
 
 ill.Ml r.fitisU 
 
 )1K'V stt'ltlMMl 
 
 Vcs." I 'V- 
 
!■ 
 
 ft 
 
 111 
 
 ! I I 
 
BRITISH auMio.irs. 
 
 •J!>1 
 
 plied: "an *Expr(.s,s' rifle, ji t'o\vIiii,n-|>i»M'e, jiiid a r 
 
 volver 
 
 n a 
 
 Must leave them all lifi-f uiitii vou ol.|;iiii a 
 
 permit from the ucliiiinisfratoi', II. II. .luimsloii." "Ami 
 where might that gentleman he I'oimil .'" " In tlif Shirt' 
 Ilighlaucls, five or .><ix days from licrt'.'" 
 
 To wait twelve days I'oi' this iicniiit was out of the 
 question; yet 1 was not Vi'vy Ufcii .iliout xfuHu-iiig ou 
 the next stage of my jourufy uiinriiK-.i, iln-ou-h ;i couu- 
 try ubouiKling in leo[»ai'ds i;ud lions — r\rii within li.ill' 
 
 a mile of where we wen' stiindiuii'. .\ 
 
 iw jo prohiliit 
 
 the sale of guns oi- guni>(»wilfi' to iiiHi\Ts I cnii qiiitf 
 un<lerstand; but to take from a Ion" traveler his only 
 nnums of defense in .Vfric;i, without the option of oh- 
 taining a Tu'ense, is a proceeding t!i;it even the I'oi-ni- 
 guese would be ashauietl of. I pi'otested, but the ot"li- 
 
 cial was innuovable, an 
 
 to subnnt. 
 
 d lliel'e Wiis llotlliUL!- fol' 
 
 <U\ 
 
 Chiromo is an inipoi-taut government station, li.iviug 
 a enstom-liouse, post-olliee, etc. The Mugiish oecujiy 
 the north an<l the I'orluguese the s(»uth baid< of ilie 
 Ruo. Th(* two British gunboats are heie, ||. .M. SS. 
 "Herald" and " INrosipiito."' i spent a [densant e\en- 
 ing on board the "Herald" by invitation of Comman- 
 der Kobortson, meeting the ot'iieei-s and doctors of both 
 vessels. 
 
 I sought out ^Er. Simi)son, a Scotch trailer, Avho has 
 a hirgo store and has done an extensixe business here 
 among the natives for many years. He gave me a 
 hearty weh'ome, and pressed uie to stay with him a 
 couple of days, promising to gt^t me carriers btr tlu^ 
 "overland journey to Blantyre, ^NFr. Simjtson complains 
 ])itterly — and I fear not without reason — of the admin- 
 
 ! U' 
 
 r 
 
 M 
 
292 
 
 RH/tLlTY ^^l-RSUS ROM/tNCE. 
 
 istrntion of British Cmtriil Africa (now iiioornorntrd 
 with tho British South Africnn Coinpiiiiy) l>y Ilrr Ma- 
 jesty's conimissioiuM', who cxercisos his authority in 
 such a peremptory and bullyini; manner, through his 
 Zanzihai'i ami Siklis, that a ^reat (h'al of disi'ontcnt is 
 rapidly sprinj^inj; ui> amonjr the cliiefs, wlio d«Mlare 
 that they liave never j^iven ovei" theii- countiy to the 
 English. X tax of six shilhii^s per annum is h'vied l»y 
 the liritisli upon every male nati\e over fourteen years 
 of a<re, whiK' the I*ortu;^uese demand only one rn]M'e, 
 r«'sultin<j;: in some of the natives j^oin^over to tlie latter, 
 while others are threatenini; resistant'e to the unreason- 
 ahhi and unjust »lemands made upon them, IVom which 
 they derive no return oi* l>en<'lit whatever. 
 
 It struck mo as bein;:!: rather peculiar that I should 
 have been required to take <mt a license in onh'r to pass 
 throu^li Mashonaland ; and now on <'()min«i: a<j:ain into 
 British possessions, so <'alled, to be d(>i)i'ived of my riiie, 
 in a country where it is absolutely indispensable, not 
 only in pr<icurinjL!j meat, but as a means of defense 
 against wihl animals, sti'ikes me as beinj^ more i)eculiar 
 still. Only yesterday IMr. Simpson came across a lion 
 and lioness with two cubs, within a mile (>f camp. 
 
 Satunhiy, August (Ith. Tlien^ lias be«>n a ;rreat deal 
 of disputing? on the station as to tlie (hiy of the week, 
 some maintaininjjj that it is Friday, others Saturday. I 
 scuttled the matter in tliis way: liavin*? purcliased at 
 Sena a small basket of «\ii<»;s for use on the journey, 
 and knowinjjf how many I had at startin.u; and th(^ num- 
 ber used each day, the arithmetical problem resulted in 
 favor of Saturday. 
 
 On Tuesday I got carriers together and started at 
 
THI- CHllI- Ol- MHlH-l:. 
 
 203 
 
 n('oritorat»'(l 
 l»y II«'r Mn- 
 lutliorily in 
 through his 
 lis('oiit<'iil is 
 wlio (h'claro 
 mitry to tlio 
 is Icvicil Ity 
 iirlccn yciU's 
 y «nn' ni]M'«>, 
 to tilt' latt«*r, 
 lie uurcason- 
 , from which 
 
 liat T sliould 
 [>r(l(>r to pass 
 «;• a«::aiii into 
 1 of my rillo, 
 
 11 A.M. ovorlainl for Kaliiiiii:a. Much of the journey was 
 very ntu^^h, on account of the hm^ <;rass and thorn- 
 hush. \Vc passed M(»iia ahnul 'J r.M,, and arrived at 
 I\Iasanj«'ras a litth< hef(M'e live in the t'veninu', makini; 
 
 ei'^hteen miles. I foun<l a while man ii 
 
 I a ^oou-si/et 
 
 'he ru,ir^e(| t'oolpalh was very iiarr«»\v, 
 
 house, which he had huih for the purpose of occaNJonal 
 traiUnj;-. He kindly olVcred mc a shelter foi' the ni-ht. 
 Next mornin;:: we continuetl our Journey through \\ui 
 fearful j;rass. 
 
 wiiKhn^ uk>ni;' the hiise of the Tyojo Mountain all th«^ 
 way. We sighted larjj:e herds of hulValo and water- 
 buck. I'alm trees are ahundant on the pljiin, and somo 
 are very han<lsome. This valley is thickly populal«'d. 
 We passcnl many villa^'es durinu,' the <lay, the lar.i^est, 
 ]MI)owe, clos(! \ii the Shii'e. 'I'he chief, Ma(|nire, quite 
 a youn«x man, came out to j^rect us, with some two hun- 
 (h'cd natives at his heels; he hade me y-ood-t'NeiiJni;; 
 very cheerfully in Knulish. I afterward learned that 
 he had been ('or some time at the lilantyre mission, 
 and bears a goo<l reputation among the wliite peopl»> of 
 the country. 
 
 TI 
 
 le sun wj 
 
 IS settiuiT, and we pressed on to seek 
 
 a 
 
 1 started at 
 
 campin<;'-pkico for the niu'ht ; we pitched <»n a s)>ot clear 
 of gi'ass, I'ie'ht on the river-baid<. Mosquitoes attaeke<l 
 us in hordes, which, with the fretiuent barkini; of k-op- 
 ards, the k)w jj;i'owI of a lion in oui* neai- vicinity, tho 
 constant snortim;' of liippos, and the oerie conscious- 
 ness of our defens(^less ])osition, permitted no sleep (for 
 which I have to tliank tlie unfair exactions of olllcial- 
 dom). At break of (k-iy we continued to follow tho 
 river-bank, passini;- a villai;'e about every twenty nun- 
 ntes, and reached K;,tunua about \) a.m. 1 turne(l into 
 
 I it 
 
i 'L 
 
 li!)4 
 
 Rl.lUiy ll.RSiS ROM.tSCli. 
 
 51 
 
 ;!i i 
 
 ) il 
 
 r I 
 
 the pmniscs of the AlVicjiii Liikcs ('oiiii»;iiiy, wlicro 
 iSlr. liaivd Ls inaiiii^t r, who sent out to p't rarritTs lor 
 JJIaiilyrc; and, as l»y tlic time they were all collected it 
 was late ill the at'tei'iiooii, I de«'ided to stiiy until m-xt 
 niornin,u'. \V«' .started «'arly, crossing" the i»lain toward 
 tho hills, commencing the ascent al»(»ul einht o'clock. 
 Wo had stiff clinihin;? for a coujile of ianirs, then the 
 road, du^' out of the mountain-si<le, was toleraMy level 
 and in ^ood order. We j;ot some fine .ulimpscs <»f lli(» 
 Shire N'allev from our lii<di altitude. \W W r.M. we 
 passed the forfn'ss-like store of the AiVican Lakes Com- 
 pany at ^landala, ami in fifteen minutes more wore in 
 Blantyre. 
 
 1 met Dr. Seott, "who took me to the Mans(», where 1 
 was introduced to tho missionary in <'hari;'e {jtro Irm.), 
 liev. A. Ileatherwick. The magnificent <'liurcli, the 
 suhstantial and home-like residence, the crowds of boys 
 and j;irls bein.u' trained l>y the mission, have all been 
 so well and i're(iuently d«'scril»ed that a detailed sketch 
 of them bvmo is unnee«>ssarv. I learned that the com- 
 pany's steaniei", " IJonura," would not he down to tho 
 south end of Nvasa for some ton (hivs. This is disiip- 
 pointinii', but cannot be helped, as I must ^'o and soo 
 the stations on tla* famous lalvo lu't'ore returniui;' hom(»; 
 ])esides, doubtless letters are awaitini,' me at IJandawe, 
 which T must j;et somehow. AVere it not that I loni;ed 
 with an intense yearninii; to <iet ba<'k liome, I could put 
 in a few weeks at Blantyre very hajipily; and 1 nmch 
 reipiiro tlie rest this boautiful spot anil pleasant sur- 
 i'oundin«!,s afford. 
 
 I visited Maudala, lieadciuarters of the African Lakes 
 Company, where a larj^'c trade is carried on with the 
 
Bl.AhJTYRF.. 
 
 •J!*: 
 
 iiativos, iiiid tlir<ui;;h wIkhii siipitlics m-c r«)rwiii"<lt'<l t<> 
 lii'niK'h stntioiis, jiixl to tli<' various iiiissionai'ics on tli<> 
 lak»'. I>a<l arrouiils ol' llir distiirlKMl coiHlitioii o!" tli<' 
 roinitr\- on tin- t-ast iiixl iiorili u|" Nvasa arrived; iirw ; 
 
 of a IVcsli oiitltrcak was daily cxj led, ^lio liostilily of 
 
 tli«' Ai'al»s Itciiiii' Very hittei', and tliey are all too siie- 
 
 (•('Ssl'ul ill willllilli; over tlie IlllllieroUS ('iliefs {o tlieir 
 8id«'. To this may lie added, as a reason for diseoiiteiit, 
 tile nialadiiiinistratioii of Her Majesty's eoiihnissioner, 
 ■\vlio seems to jiossess no )»rin<'i|>l(* and no |Mili<'y in 
 dii'ectin;^' tlic alTairs of the conntry, exct'pt thr very 
 qiiestionahle one of "mi^ht is riuht.*' 
 
 On Sunday I attended the various sei'vices in tli<» 
 cliurch, \]\o ( 'Oil jjcrei^a lion consistinu; chielly of tin' two 
 hundred native hoys and <;irls uiHJer instiMU'tioii ami 
 ))oarded on the niissi<»ii premises. The form of sei-- 
 vicc, thoiiu'h noniiiially that of the HstaMished Cliunli 
 of Scotland, contrasted stran^^ely with the simplicity 
 to which ! had Iteen accustomed in my hoyhood in 
 i\w lli«i;hlands of Scotland. It closely reseMd»hMl the 
 iiiorc^ ccrcinonious ritual of the ("liurch of l-iiiiiiand — 
 tin' surpli'HMl cler<rymaii, the [ircM-es^ioiial white-rolied 
 choir, intoiie<l jtrayers, turninu' to the east duriiii;' the 
 rejietition of the Creed, tapers on the altar, reading- 
 desk on one side of the cliaiicel and luilpit on the otliei", 
 otc. But perhaps this is the form countenanced l»y the 
 Church of S<'otland in modern times. Dr. Scott con 
 ducted service in the morniim', ^Fr. Ileatlierwick in tlu^ 
 evenin<ir: hotli of them are evidently zealous and de- 
 
 li 
 
 1- 
 
 voted num. The former is indefati,u:al)le 
 
 nnce on the sick of the district, includin^ii; all class(»s, 
 
 Avliether belonjjcing- to the mission or not. No journey 
 
 •■ it 
 
^r^ 
 
 If' it 
 
 1 
 
 n u 
 
 29G 
 
 lUi^UTY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 is too lonp:, no liour iinrcjisouuble for liiin, providod tlio 
 euU <*()iiH's from a sufFci'cr. 
 
 The jxnmiids jirouiid the mission aro vory fiiio; much 
 lias Ik'cu dono in [)luiitin<;' trees of eu('alyi)tus, cypress, 
 fir, etc., by ii ISeoteli jjjardener who has been lioro for 
 many rears. 1 visited tlie little eenieterv near by, the 
 last restiii<i:-])la('e of some twenty-three white people 
 who liaye died her«', in almost ev«'ry instance from 
 feyer. On«' j^rave, that of n man named Henchman, 
 snjrijestiMl a t«M'ril)le h^sson to those fanatics, now so 
 nnmerons, who have <>itlier come oi- intend comini;' to 
 Africa as missionaries on the "faith alone'' plan. Tliis 
 man came np the river last year with his wife and two 
 chiltlren. Althongii warned a^ain and anain not to 
 attempt traveling; in Africa withont some tan<;il»le 
 means of providing for liis family, his only answer 
 was the stock phrase, "The Lord will provide." Ar- 
 rivin«? at Hlantyre, he left his fai»iily in char«j:e of the 
 missionaries and proceeded to Angoniland, where lu> 
 pi-oposed to establish a station. After a short time 
 he retnrned to Blantyre, and, taking his wif(> and chil- 
 dren with him, setoff again, provi<led with Imt a meager 
 snpply of provisions and a very small (piantity of l)ar- 
 ter goods. A few weeks sntliced to open his eyes to 
 the blunder he had committed. The nativ(»s, discover- 
 ing that he was unable to pay his way, coolly boycotted 
 him, I'efusing even to sup})ly them with food, until they 
 were brought to the last exti-emes of distress. He per- 
 sistiHl in his sutferings; but his wife, having common 
 stMise as well as faith, disj)atched a letter to the African 
 Lakes Company begging for men to bi'ing thi^n back. 
 This was promptly done, the Blantyre mission taking 
 
 M^ 
 
MISGUIDED MF.N. 
 
 LM)7 
 
 roviclod tho 
 
 lino; much 
 us, ('y})r('ss, 
 
 thorn in and providinjj: for tlicm a<j:aiii. The ])uh])lo of 
 llcnchuian's drraui rcj^ardiiii:; a mission siii»[)ort«'(l by 
 "faith alone" havinjj: hurst, it wjis now citlicr work or 
 "want. Iff sought and ohtaiiicil cmploymoiit at road- 
 makinir, under the administration, lint a few montlis 
 of tout life and exi»osure to tlie sini were too much foi* 
 him; repeated attacks of fever so disjihled liim that he 
 had to seek lihintyre once more, this time too late. In 
 three <hiys he died, leiivinu' his wife and children alone 
 in Central Africii, amoiii;- stran,i;-ei-s. 
 
 One mifjjht imiiyine tluit such iin example wouM deter 
 others from laizardinu" their lives in foolliiirdy attempts 
 to prove that the present system of missions in .Vfi'ica 
 — receiving their support from home — is all a : "stake, 
 lint no! Such miMi ai'o too ohstinate to he led l>y any 
 counsel other than their own conceit. Only this morn- 
 inLC, Auji'ust l^Oth, J have hcen to set* a delicate little 
 shadow of a ,2,'ii'l, ten ye.-irs of au'e, apparently dyiiii;' of 
 fevei", in a hut near ]\Iandala. She was l»i'oni;ht here 
 by her fathei', a ]Mr. Booth, who, with a comi)anion 
 named ^Nfan^in, ai'riv(>d a week au'o, with the intention, 
 
 as they say, ol eommencin.i;' a plan of ojterations \\\ 
 mission work, which, with llie aid of hundi'ed^. of tl 
 
 10 
 
 .same mind as themselves, who jire to follow soon, is to 
 result in tlu^ evan,i:;eli/.ation of all AtVica <hii'in,i;' tho 
 pres«Mit cenfni'y. Tl 
 
 ley ar<' provisionei 
 
 1 r 
 
 or (»nlv a tew 
 
 months, and almost penniless. I have advised Booth, 
 for the sake of his pool- little motherless child, if for 
 notliin<^(>lse, to abandon his mad theory and .i;<» home; 
 but ho lau,ij:hod at the bare idea, and i>itie(l my lack of 
 faitli, assuring' me of his confidence that he has a ,<;'rc;it 
 work here to perform. To all appearance he is quito 
 
 
 ill! 
 
 (I- 
 
 : I 
 
 ■■I 
 
r 
 
 gfei 
 
 298 
 
 RFAUTY yi-RSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 \ I ' 
 
 M 
 
 1::; 
 
 Itn^uirod to sacrifice liis only child to the halluciiuitiou 
 that possesses him. 
 
 Aii*;ust 2Gth. I have just returned from tlie mission 
 cemetery, where we have hiid tlie Itody of tiie yo(iiii>j 
 man Manj::iu, ah'cady referred to, l»y tlie side of poor 
 lleiiehman. The door to his peculiar mission did not 
 o]>en up before him as readily as he had antieii»ate<l, 
 and necessity c,omi)eIled him to accept «'mplo3'nient in 
 a hrick-fieM. But three days' fever, and Iris career is 
 closed. By this sad event Booth's faith has rc^ceived a 
 rude shock; but will it brin.ii; him to his senses.' Oh 
 no! Like the Zulu savag-e, who courts death in the 
 l)attlefield, or the Hindoo fanatic, who throws himself 
 ])eneath the wheels of the Ju,n"i;'ernaut car, he believes 
 that such a, sacrifice will merit a great reward in the 
 world to come. 
 
 In missionary speeches we have h(>ard such expi'(\s- 
 sions as, ''The survivors will pass over the slain in the 
 trenches and tak<' tlu^ African fortress for the Lord."* 
 'J'liis sounds veiy brave, but it is <piestionable if the 
 cause of nussions nuulit not be l)etter serve(l l>v the 
 ado]>tion of a course less tragic; jhkI if, insti'ad of 
 courting a martyr's d<'ath by following the impuls(»s of 
 ill-balanced minds, these enthusiasts would but submit 
 to l)e guided by the counsel and practical experience of 
 godly men, who for years have adopted measures sug- 
 gested by the knowledge they have acupiired of the 
 country and its ])(^o]>le, for the effiH'tive pronmlgation 
 of the gosjK'l of (!hrist. The time has arrived when 
 this subject demands of all who are seriously interested 
 in Africa's missions u full, free, and dispassionate dis- 
 cussion. 
 
 * Krapt. 
 
illueiiuitiou 
 
 tbo mission 
 ' tlie yomii; 
 lidc ot" i)oor 
 ■iion <li<l ii<»t 
 aiiti('ii>iit(Ml, 
 ploj'inoiit in 
 his oart'or is 
 IS T(><'t'i\'(Ml a 
 st'iisfs ? Oh 
 Xvid\\ in tho 
 I'ows himself 
 •, lio lM'li<'V«'S 
 cwtird in the 
 
 such oxpvi'S- 
 shiin in llio 
 the Lord"* 
 u,l»lo if the 
 ,-vt'(l hy the 
 , instead of 
 impulses of 
 hut submit 
 xpei'ienee of 
 
 u(\isun's sui;- 
 uired of the 
 n'omuls;tition 
 irrived ^vhen 
 sly interested 
 assionate dis- 
 
 t 
 
 1 
 
'51 
 
 '■II 
 
 11 
 
 hi 
 
 i i 
 
 I I 
 
FAITH AND UORKS. 
 
 '2m 
 
 Tho Rt'v. Dr. Elliinvood, in The Missionarif lirr'tcir of 
 the World for Dcccinbor, ISDO, speaks out so t'tiitlit'ully 
 and to the point that v o caiiiiot refrain from giviiijj: 
 here a portion, at least, of his al>le article: 
 
 " It seems (lesiral)li^ that the foreiy-u missionary enter- 
 prise sliall be so atlministered as to (piiekeii tlie faith 
 and arouse the zeal of tho whole chui'ch, rathei- than 
 to eneourage tho idea that it is to he carried on l>y the 
 conspicuous self-denial and s«>lf-immolation of a few. 
 
 " There is needed a faith which, instead of dispensinjj: 
 with the use of means, shall lead to a «;i-eat increase of 
 means; which shall, on all hands, call forth moi-e ])ray- 
 in<2: and more jjenerous givin<j:; which shall ins[jire self- 
 denhd not merely in some sickly swamp in Africa, Imt 
 in the wealthy and comfortable Christian lionies («r 
 America. 
 
 " Tlie world cannot be convei-te(l by a few starllim;' 
 object-lessons in toil and sutt'erin,i;". We are not en- 
 camped before Philistines, whom it is (lod's purpos(> 1o 
 conquer Ijy the faith and valor of a few Davids whih^ 
 the hosts of Israel simply stand still and see the sal- 
 vation of the L(^rd. Instead of a benefit thei-e may be 
 positive injury in such examples. They inxoive a false 
 theory of Christian duty; they excuse the avaiMcious 
 and ease-loving'; they s(»em to remove tin' burden of 
 responsibility from the church as a whole. Not only 
 do the missionaries nee(l lixed and reliable salarii'S, !(► 
 free them from anxiety and keep them in health and 
 secure their success, but the church needs to jxii/ tlirse 
 s(dar}('.-i. Its own spiritual life demands at least that 
 small shar(^ of the common burden, and any theory 
 whicli maintains that a fixe(l sui)i>ort is not necessary 
 
 ^ 1 
 
 
 M 1 
 
 1 1 
 
] \ 
 
 1 ; 
 
 1 
 
 1 I 
 
 ! 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ; 1 1' 
 
 ■. 
 
 i 
 
 i II' 
 
 (;■ 
 
 5 • M 
 
 t 
 
 i 
 
 ; I 
 
 ;};);) 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 for foi'oi<?n inissioiiiirios, and wliich so far removes 
 rcspoiisiljility from those who stay at lionic, is a <l<)\vii- 
 ri<;lit injury to tho wliolo si»iritual lifo of Christian 
 lands, and in tlio end will rotard the conversion of the 
 world instead of luistenin^ it. 
 
 "Such theories do liarni upon tlie mission fields as 
 well as at liome. I am aware that the plea lias heen 
 made that Orientals are accustomed to associate habits 
 of self-mortilication with religion, and tliat they will be 
 more readily infiuenced l)y men who an^ in a sense as- 
 cetics; but there is another side to this matter. Ascet- 
 icism has for a<;'<»s proved useless and abortive, and 
 what is now needed is tlie i)lain, unostentatious, an<l 
 vigorous devotion of an alert and healthy Christian 
 life. The gospel of common sense is inwoven Avith 
 the gospel of redemption, and where this is wanting 
 l)Ositive harm is done. 
 
 " What are the recent facts in this connection, and 
 Avhat has been their influence? Nine missionaries sent 
 out in connection with wliat is known as the ' Kansas 
 Movement' were hmded, som«? months since, at Sierra 
 Leone. None can doubt the sinceritv of their devotion. 
 
 " They had doubth'ss been pained by the criticisms of 
 a Avorldly church upon the ' luxuries of foreign mission- 
 aries,' and they ri^solved to cast themselves on the Lord, 
 and without salary, and without (n-en medical care, (h)- 
 vote themselves to the establishment of a mission in 
 western Soudan. 
 
 " For the s(^quel we refer the reader to the statements 
 recently i)ublished by the authorities at Sierra Leone. 
 The British minister at Washington has lately trans- 
 mitted to the Department of State a letter from tho 
 
t ' 
 
 SELF-HXCLSING SFM/MFX' T. 
 
 ;;()! 
 
 far T<>niov»^s 
 ic, is a (lowii- 
 
 o\' Christian 
 crsioii of tlio 
 
 isioii fiolds as 
 il<'a lias luM-n 
 sociatc liJibits 
 it tiu'V Avill 1)0 
 ill a s«'iis(» as- 
 attcr. Ascct- 
 abortivo, and 
 nitations, and 
 tliy Christian 
 iii\vov«'n with 
 lis is wanting: 
 
 Hinoction, and 
 ^sionarit^s sent 
 s the ' Kansas 
 
 11 
 
 ice, at Si<'rra 
 icir dovotioii. 
 ' criticisiiis of 
 •ciu'n niission- 
 son tho Lord, 
 lical caro, do- 
 a mission in 
 
 ho statoinonts 
 Siorra Loono. 
 ^ lately trans- 
 ttor from tho 
 
 jjovernor of Sierra Leoii(», iiicludiii<,' n report from the 
 colonial surgjeon at Freetown rehitive to the case of the 
 nine American missionari«'s at that i»la<-e. The report 
 states that upon their arrival they l»ei;an to live in ii;;- 
 tive fashion, eating native food, cooking- and washing' 
 for themselves, and even collecting their own fuel in 
 the rainy season, hoping thus to gain the confidence of 
 tiie natives. On the i»th of duly two of the party died, 
 both of whom had been such stam-h believers in faith 
 cure that they had taken no medicine. Two days after, 
 u third died of exhaustion, from neglected fever, having 
 been ill for nine days. As the fourth put lent in tla^ 
 list refused the services of the physician, the latter re- 
 ported to the goverjior that the missionaries, liy the 
 course pursued, ha(t originated a malignant type (»f 
 fev<'r, which endangered the Avhole coinniunity. He 
 therefore quarantined the house, and advise<l that the 
 survivors of the party be sent back to America. Vyum 
 this the patient consented to be treate<l. 
 
 "Nothing could possibly jn-oduce a mor«> unfavorable 
 impression upon a community of foreign residents, in 
 regard to tho whole work of missions, tiiaii an event of 
 this kind_. 
 
 "And public sentiment throughout Christendom will 
 condemn not so much the misguiiUMl young missionaries 
 as that self-excusing sentiment in the; church which 
 seems to call for such sacritices. So long as a mission- 
 ary cannot receive a modest salary without being ex- 
 posed to criticism by those who ought to be his cheerful 
 supporters; so long as there are thousands of money- 
 getting Christians wlio are I'eady to say of the faith 
 missionary, 'There is the man that T beli(>ve in; he is 
 
 1 
 
t .1 
 
 I 
 
 1: ■ 
 
 
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 i 
 
 ill 
 
 li 
 
 " 
 
 1 
 
 i|M.i: . 
 
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 :-f:r 
 
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 ♦ 
 
 1 
 
 :]()2 
 
 Rl-ALITY yr.RSiS ROM ASCII. 
 
 not aftor tli<' lonves and lislics; lie is not lioiiiir to livo 
 in luxnry, otc' — so loii<;' will sensitive yonii:;' mm lie 
 fonnd who wonld rather brave daii;;vi', and even deatli 
 itsell', tliaii to depend on sneh ^I'ud'^in^' supiioi'lers. .\t 
 {Sierra Leone starvation led t'o fever and death, and hy 
 all accounts eanie neai' to breedini;: a [testilence; y<'t 
 jteople will soon t'oi'i;'et it, and the plea of 'clieaj) nd.s- 
 hiionaries' will he renewed. 
 
 " Is it (juite sound, either as tlieolojiy or as fact, to as- 
 .suine that (iod intends a dittVrent measure of I'aitli and 
 a l"ss re,u;:i'd to me;iiis on the foi-ci"!! iields than in the 
 work at home,' Is there ;;iiy more I'eason to sui»]>oso 
 that a fortuitous sui)poi't can he relied upon I'oi mis- 
 sionaries than for our own pastors? 'Fhe wliole theoi-y 
 of 'faith missions' proves too much; foi', nnl(>ss it 1)(> 
 assume(l that (lod lias two dill'erent economies for the 
 Avork ol' the church, then every dei»artment and every 
 inlet'est onu'ht to he conducted niton trust, and all sala- 
 ries, all pK'dii'es, all contracts, should Ite dispensed with. 
 
 "The intervention of broad oceans does not chan,i;o 
 tiie li'eiieral laws of (Mn'istian service noi' invalidate 
 anywheiH' the divinely authorized principle that 'the 
 laborer is worthy of his hire.' 
 
 "Nay, a jiuaranteed sup[)ort is even more indispensa- 
 ble on the foreign field than at home. If one is to cai'ry 
 economv to tlu' verj^'o of starvation anywhere in Christ's 
 servic(^, a sava<;v community in a nudarious country is 
 the very last }>lace for the experiment. If the nnnistry 
 cannot l»e self-supported in this country, when! they 
 are surrounded l)y friends and abundant resources of 
 every kind and a j]^reat variety of occupations which 
 open before them, how much less in an African com- 
 
/'()()A' /:C()V().\/)- 
 
 '.o; 
 
 ;<)'m^ to livo 
 nil:;' iiini lie 
 1 even (lentil 
 ijiortcrs. At 
 I'jitli, iiiid l>y 
 ^tilt'iK'f; y<'t 
 'c'lu'ap niis- 
 
 is t'uct, to JIS- 
 of riiitli Jiud 
 , than ill tho 
 1 \o siq)po.so 
 poll I'oi iiiis- 
 ^vliole theory 
 unless it he 
 >iiiies for tho 
 it and every 
 iiid all sala- 
 )eiised Avitli. 
 not ehaiij;o 
 invalidate 
 e that 'the 
 
 iiidispeiisa- 
 le is to carry 
 •i> ill Christ's 
 IS country is 
 the uiiiiistry 
 
 wlieni they 
 resources of 
 itions "wliicli 
 i'ricaii com- 
 
 luuiiity, where lahor of every kind can he secured for 
 a pittance, where few comforts of life cjin he found at 
 tho hest, where no husiiiess enterprise presents itself 
 as a i)ossil)ility, and wiiere any inissioiiary, iindertakiiii;; 
 to live as the natives live, niiisf he almost certain (»f 
 f^ickiiess and <leath. 
 
 '"I'lie voi-st of all in these rash exjtcrinients is the 
 sendinu' out of married men, with the iiicrejiscd hazards 
 that must come to a family. If siimlc men were dis- 
 posed to take such risks alone, as ;in exploier would 
 venture into an unknown re,i;ion, t he ciise would !»<» 
 somewhat less serious; thouiih n 
 
 o eXpiol'ei' evel" pro- 
 ceeds without a thorouuh outfit of supplies and the 
 means of preserving;' health. 
 
 " It may he safe to assume that no man has .-i i-i^ht 
 to expose a youni;"wife to the jiei-ilsof such ;i situation, 
 suhject as she must he to the incidents of m.-n-rieij lii'e, 
 and with all the additional Idirdens and li'ials which a 
 woman must encounter. . . . 
 
 "• Ahout a year a^o a letter was received from a vounir 
 
 missionary who felt tht 
 
 n 
 
 lUst yield to popular o-ili- 
 
 cism and liv(^ on a much s..,iiller salary than that wlii.-h 
 was assij;'ne(I to him, whiili was ahout se\-eu hundred 
 dollars. Uo proposed to dissohc his connect ion with 
 tlu> hoard an<l throw himself <'or supitoi't upon the stu- 
 dents of (uie of our oolleges. I urged him to consider 
 carefully the subjcx't, since, irrespective of the (piestiou 
 of iimount in salary, it would tend to dissever the stu- 
 dents' movement from the regular organiziMl hoards of 
 the dift'erent denominations, which would he a calamity. 
 !^[any months passed Itefore a re[»ly cann*, at the end of 
 which time lu' informed me that he had tried the experi- 
 
 1^1 
 
 I'l 
 
1 ' ' 
 
 h.: 
 
 304 
 
 RL^LITY n.KSUS KOM^tNCH. 
 
 inciif tli()rou;^'lily of liviii/uj on linll' salary, native foo*! 
 and in native houses, anil lia<l .i^iven it up. 
 
 "lie liad tried lionestly and earnestly to eoniniend 
 liiiuselt' to tlie people, who, as he suitposeij, Would !)«< 
 influenced l)y one who came nearei* to their ideas of 
 what a relij^ious man should he, lint ho found he was 
 only despised, an<l that he really made no impression 
 for ^ood. II<> lived too well to pass for a fakir, and not 
 ■well eiiou.uh to claim respect as a missionary. lie was 
 neither one tliin<i: uor the other. By the Hindoo com- 
 munity he was looked niton as a foreipi tramp. lie 
 lia<l made a conscientious and heroic effort, and his 
 experience should insi>ire the youn<jc men of our coun- 
 try with zeal, coupled with just views of the missionary 
 work." 
 
 !-> 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 H. 
 
 J 
 
 
iiativt' foo«l 
 
 ) coiniiU'iKl 
 1, woiiltl i»<^ 
 'ir ideas of 
 iiikI ht' was 
 imin't'ssioii 
 kir, and not 
 i-y. Ho was 
 lindoo coni- 
 tranip. Il«> 
 .)i't, iukI his 
 jt our eoun- 
 d missionary 
 
V'- 
 
 tf:r 
 
 n !<: 
 
 iw. • ■ -J— -.jy^ 
 
niAPTET? XIV. 
 
 FROM NYASA To ('HIN'DR. 
 
 Bimh flrofi. — A Htroiip ciiiTcnt uikI IhihI wiml.— MyriiidM of n-d iiiitw. — 
 TiuiipiinH. — On the l»a<-k of a liipim.- liiikr \ynKii.--hiviiij{H»iiiiii(.— A 
 Htonii (III tlif liiki'. — Aiii'lmn'il nl Uaiiiliiwi.— Tlie I'lic Clmrili Mission. 
 — " lilai'k ivory." — " l<oiiut'«l to ciislavi' lliciii." — Not Mdicilin^ i-oriiiiil>- 
 cmfioii. — I'liK'nitcfiil. — Ll|i " iMiproVfrs."— " Miiavi " onlcal. — riilili- 
 hills of Anyoiiilainl.— l.ilicrty of consficncf. — Mtiolnili Islmiil. -A < Imiiil 
 wi'iviee. — Ueturii to maiilyrt'. — HoiiikI for ChiiHli'. — The Indian Oi-caii. 
 
 ON tlu' '2<Sth iit'WH aiTiv«'<l tluit tlic stciiiiisliip " Do- 
 mini" is iiiuiMo, on nccouiit of slmllows, to cotiic 
 fai'tluT down the riwr tluin Mpoiuln, tlio soullioni cx- 
 tivniity of tho lake, whore she is now at aii.'Iior. This 
 iieoossitatcs n todions joui'ncy of several dnys' pnllini;: 
 hard a;^aiust tlie stream; hnt in eonijtaiiy with tiiecaii- 
 tain, ill Avliose boat 1 will make the ti'ip, we started 
 early this niorninjj; for ^Matope, a distiinee of tliii'ty-five 
 miles. There is nothing very interestin;i:; on the road; 
 oneo away from tho vicinity of sneh plaoes as Blantyre, 
 Zomba, or tho ^relanjjji Hills, it requires a i»arty of a 
 very sanji;nine temperament to see the beantics of the 
 Shire Highlands. The ordinary traveler sees only the 
 drooi>ingf and sapless foliag«^ of the snn-striek<'n ;iiid 
 stunted trees, surrounded by tall wiry jyrass; while iit 
 this season the atmosi)here is thick with smoke fi'oiii 
 tho bush fires that annually sweep over tho wholo coun- 
 try, leaving it for a time a blackened waste. 
 
 305 
 
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 i. 
 

 »***?«*aw«a« 
 
 MM 
 
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 liliAUTY IHRSLS ROMANCF.. 
 
 Every fow milos wo coine upon thoso luisli fii'os ])lnz- 
 iii«X t'ui'ioiisly on hotli sides of tlie i»;illi; l»ut we inak<> 
 ;i run for it, nud <i'et Ihrou.ijli willi only a sniif of tli(^ 
 fhmies. The native system of cultivation is i-espon- 
 sihle, in a ,<;reat measure, for tli(> wintry asjM'ct mucli 
 of the landscape invsents, particularly where there is 
 a laryc i>oi)ulati<»n. Tliey sliift to a fresli spot of 
 land every second <»r third year, denudini'' the lar<;'er 
 trees of tlieir l>ranches and fellini;' the small<>r ones 
 thi-ee feet from tli(» ground, leaviiii;' the l»rnsli to dry 
 and with«'r, when it is gatluM'ed into heaps hefoi'e the 
 rainy season and l)urned. The next i>rocess is simply 
 niakini;' a liole l)y a stroke or two of the lioe, droppinjj^ 
 in a few urains of maize, coverinij: them up with an- 
 other stroke, and so on, until tlie iield is sown out. 
 Th<\v see no ji'ood in phmting" banantis, cotTee, cotton oi* 
 fruit trees, as tliey i,re seklom lonj;' enouiih in one place 
 lo reap crops that riMjuiro years to mature. 
 
 The present almost prohibitive freights charged ])y 
 river steamers from the coast t(^ Katunga, and r'icr. 
 rcrso^ must seriously militate against the rapid agricul- 
 tural devek^iMnent of the Shire Ilighkuids, as tlie high 
 rates must leave hut a small margin to the grow<M's 
 who wish to export cotton, coflt'ee, etc. In the case of 
 some })roducts, such as sugar, it would cost more to 
 transport to Chindo than it would realize in the Lon- 
 don market. The construction of a railway, as far as 
 l\*uo at least, is the only remedy ; for, even if the charges 
 were less by water, navigation on tlu> Shire gets more 
 diflticult every year. The river has never been known 
 as lo\v as it is uow, while the sandbanks arc constantly 
 
MYKLIDS or RID .IMS. 
 
 ;jui 
 
 ish firos l>ln/- 
 Imt \vi' inako 
 \ snitY of th(^ 
 )ii is rcspoii- 
 nsiKM't imicli 
 ;\wxo WwYo is 
 IVcsli si)<)t of 
 no; tlM' lavjiTV 
 siiu>ll<M' ones 
 lirusli to <lry 
 ips lu'fon' the 
 )coss is sinijily 
 lioo, (IroppinjJC 
 II up Avith au- 
 is sown out. 
 )ff(HS cotton or 
 ill in ono placo 
 
 s chavuHMl hy 
 luii-a, and rUr. 
 
 rapid a.u;ri(*ul- 
 ds, as tho liij-jh 
 o tho jjjrowcrs 
 
 In tho oaso of 
 cost uioro to 
 zo in tho liOn- 
 
 way, as far as 
 n if tli(» cluirgos 
 
 ihiro jiots niovo 
 
 n- boon known 
 
 aro eonstan+ly 
 
 changiup:, and pilots lind tho channels of one wook thi* 
 shallows of tho next. 
 
 Noxt morninj;- wo liad our 1)oat loaded, and starti^l 
 up tho Shir'i a<;'ainst a stroiij;: cun-ciil and a head wind. 
 llavin<ij two sots of hoatnu'ii, wc continncil to move 
 alonij: slowly but surely until late, when we st(»|)p('d for 
 tho nij::ht. I spread my bod und«.'r the caves of a na- 
 tive hut, proforriniT the outside lo tho inside, as l)cinj< 
 less likely to oncovmtor tlu^ disaiirecable kind of com- 
 pany found in those domiciles j;enorally. J was Jusl 
 beconung oblivious to earthly things, when I started 
 up with a sensation of beiui:: tickletl in the face by a. 
 number of red-hot noodles. Sti'ikini;' a liuiit, I found 
 myself besioiicd 1)V myriads of fei-oeious i-ed jints. Tlu^ 
 only reliable woai)on of defense against such an attack 
 is tiro, and this I wielded so oft'octiN'ely for half an hour, 
 that 1 had, at last, tlio satisfaction of seeiiii;- the enemy 
 routed with j;"roat slauii'hter, and was able to rest foi" 
 
 tho 1»alance 
 
 tl 
 
 ht 
 
 or ilio ni<;iir in ])oac( 
 
 0\\(^ species of vermin that infests tho native huts, in 
 addition to the ti'io usually accompanyiii!;' s(|ualor and 
 dirt, is tho h()rril)lo tampan, reseml)lin,u' a tick in size 
 and shape, ])ut of a diiiijy black <'olor. Its l)ite is very 
 })ainful, and pro(hicos a swellinix that remains foi- some 
 time after the burniuj;' sensation from tiie poison has 
 passed away, often inducini;" fever, in some huts tli(>y 
 can bo gatlun'od up in dozens from the carthiMi tloors, 
 and on account of tliis the traveler can seldom a<'cept 
 tho shelter of a native dwoUim;". A Itivouac even in 
 tho rain is pret'erublo to tho torture of being bitten by 
 tampans. 
 
 i I 
 
 N 
 
 < I 
 
 I ' 
 
 mh^-. 
 
V ••■-fi 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 
 
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 ! I 
 
 308 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 h I 
 
 I ' 
 
 i' 
 
 :i li': 
 
 i:' 
 
 if. 
 
 Next morning wo shoved off again, keeping a sharp 
 lookout for the hippos, wliieh keep bobbing up unpleas- 
 antly near our heavily hiden boat. They seem more 
 ready to go for intruders on their domain at this sea- 
 son, as many of them are aeeompanied by their young, 
 some not kirger than an orchnary pig, and often seen 
 standing on the back of their dam. 
 
 We reached Milouries village after midnight. I 
 avoided the huts this time by placing my mat in the 
 open yard, to the lee of a reed fence ; l)Ut a strong wind 
 with frequent showers of rain made it anything l)ut 
 comfortable. Early in the morning we moved out into 
 the stream once more, determined, if possible, to reach 
 Mponda without further stoppages. The boys, being 
 promised a fathom of cloth extra pay, consented to row 
 all night. This proved rather risky, as towar<l the 
 small hours of the morning, when the captain and my- 
 self were enjoying " forty winks," yells from the boat- 
 men and the sudden upheaval of the boat brought us 
 to our feet. We felt sure that the next miiuite would 
 find us struggling in the river; l)ut, happily, our two 
 tons of cargo were not so easily tipped over, and w(; 
 escaped a ducking. It Avas only a drowsy hippo trying 
 to balance us on its back, in rather shallow water. 
 
 About nine o'clock on Friday morning Ave entered 
 Lake Pomalombe, the oars stirring up the yellow mud 
 at every stroke. We crossed the lake m six hours, and 
 before dark got alongside the "Domii'a" as she lay at 
 anchor in the stream opposite Mponda. I am sorry 
 to learn that shi^ will not sail for some thrive days yet ; 
 for although she has been lying here for ten days al- 
 ready, there is not a single package of her cargo on 
 
FORT JOHN- SOX. 
 
 ;;()!) 
 
 board. I find I have four fcllow-passoiijjjors, wl.o caiiio 
 up the river a few days aj^o; three of tliem are yoiiiii; 
 missionaries — two, (Jeriuans, for the nortli end of tli»^ 
 hdie, and one, an Englislniian, for the rniversilies Mis- 
 sion at Lokonio; the fourtli is one of tiie eoini)any's 
 agents. As the passenger accommodation is limite(l 
 to two small bunks, some of us have to shift on deck 
 as best we <'an. 
 
 On the west bank of the Shire the native city of 
 Mponda stretches out for a great distance — the largest 
 eollecticm of native huts we have seen in Africa. The 
 poimlation consists mostly of Yaos and Xyanges. Th(^ 
 only attempt at mission work among them was made 
 some years ago by four Jesuit priests; but they found 
 the place too unhealthy to remain more tlian a few 
 months, when they retired from the iield and went to 
 work at Tanganvika. 
 
 There is but little confidence placed in the ])rofessed 
 friendship of the ehief, and he is (piiet only from feiir 
 of the big guns that look ovei- on him fi-om the ojtpo- 
 site bank at Fort Johnson. This foi-t has been eon- 
 strueted as the headquarters of the British administi'a- 
 tion, and is garrisoned by about twenty Indian Sikhs 
 and a few Zanzibar!. There* is nothing very imposing 
 about the fort proper, it being little h<'tter than a low 
 bank of sand thrown up in the form of a sepiare, and 
 surrounded by a <liteh. 
 
 We got up steam at M).'M) a.m. on Tuesday, making 
 "Monkey Bay" by sunset, where we droppe(l iinchor 
 for the night. This is a snug and ju'etty little hai'hor, 
 with plenty of water, ;nid liemnie(l in by hills on all 
 sides, except the narrow enti'nnce. A vessi;! would be 
 
 
 if 
 
 i i 
 1 n i 
 
 ;!' 
 
310 
 
 RliAUTY IHRSLS ROMANCli. 
 
 1 i.'i 
 
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 ill Mi !il 11 
 
 ii! »!f 
 
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 ii. , 
 
 
 
 .safe liore from nlinost any storm. Next moniiii«;' avo 
 "wci'e delayed for sev<'ral luiiurs taking" on a supidy of 
 firewood. This completed, we started auaiii, and i'e;ielie(l 
 Cape MeLear !iy ihmhi. 1 went asiior*' to see the Liv- 
 in,i;stoiua mission station, where a native teaeher is in 
 charLce, and, 1 am informeil, doing' a j^ood \V(»i'k anionu' 
 the children of the district. He is a (piiet, s<'nsilil<', 
 nnassuming' youni;' man, and si>eaks a little Hn^iish; 
 l)nt for him, this wonld be truly a deserted and di'eary 
 spot. 
 
 Ther<' are several largo buildings oomi)osing the nus- 
 sion premises. These ;ire the results of the early labors 
 of white missionaries, who were one after another cut 
 off by fevei", four or fi\-e during as many years, inchal- 
 ing the lamente<l Di-. William IMack, the jiosition of 
 whose grave is indicate(l in the photograph by tli«3 
 bi'onze UH^dallion and tablet rivete(l to the rock, at the 
 head — a loving tribute to his memoi\v from friends in 
 Scotland. This was sulirtcient warning not to persist 
 ill occupying tli»^ station by Kin'oi)eans; for though 
 l»lante(| in a lovely spot environed liy granite mount- 
 ains clad to the summit with small trees, it is Imt a 
 few feet above the level of the lake, hence a Very hot- 
 be<l of malarial exhalations. The sui'vi\-ors decided 
 to move northward and transfer the mission centei- to 
 IJaiidawe. 
 
 We left ('ape ]\[cLear th(^ sanu^ evening and crossi^d 
 till' laki' to ^laganga, where we left some letters and 
 packages for the Mvera missionaries. The moon rose 
 bright and clear on the placid waters as the ship's prow 
 turned out to the deep, Far into the night we sat up 
 enjoying the delights of a moonlight trip on Xyasa ; 
 
^ moriiiiio- ^x^) 
 '» Ji supply of 
 11, ••md iv;i('li,.(l 
 > SPC tlic Liv- 
 t<';i('li('i- is in 
 woi'lv iiiiioiiii;' 
 ni<'t, sciisildc, 
 ttlc iMi.uiisli; 
 <1 Jind (Ircjiiy 
 
 siii.U' tli<' iiiis- 
 
 ' <'''ii'Iy lal)oi-s 
 
 illl()lli(>i- cut 
 
 '''•'ii's, iiicliid- 
 
 l»<)siti()ii ot' 
 
 iipli I.y liio 
 
 i'<><-'ls ;it lli(> 
 
 I tViciids in 
 
 f to |)('l-sist 
 
 for t)i(>n,<j;li 
 lite mount- 
 it is ).ut a 
 a vci-y ]iot- 
 >i's decided 
 
 II <'ciitt'i- lo 
 
 lid ci'()ss(^d 
 t'ttci's .•ind 
 moon I'oso 
 lii]»'s ])i'()\v 
 Avc sat up 
 '11 Xyasji ; 
 
 
h ' ' 
 
 ) ; I: 
 
 r 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 i , 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 li 
 
 1 
 
A STORM ON NY ASA. 
 
 311 
 
 but as the moniinj; brok«' there was overv evuUMiee 
 thut we were soon to j;et ti taste of tlie o}»posite ex- 
 treme. The sky beeanie of a (hill leaden eolor, over- 
 east hy (hirk, loweriiijj: clouds, shai'p ousls of wind 
 iuereusiuj^ in frequency and force, until Xyasa could 
 seureely be roeo^nized as the same lake that only u 
 few hours ag'o lay around us a veiy jdcture of tran- 
 (luillit}'. Now lasheil into a fury, its ^i-eat waves 
 swept the decks and threatened to swamp oiu* sturdy 
 little craft as she bravely headed to the wind, shippin«x 
 tons of water at each di[) of her prow. We wer(> com- 
 pehed to pass Kotakota Avithout calling, lest we miji;ht 
 be driven ashore. ]Most of tlie <hiy the storm continuetl, 
 but toward evening? the wind abated, sul)siding as sud- 
 denly as it liad ai'isen. 
 
 In the afternoon a nund)er of Atonjjja lal)orers were 
 beiny; i)aid ott" previous to landing;- them at one of the 
 ports on the hdvo shoi-e. One of them was busy tyinj;* 
 uj) his b'.iudle of cloth, and while si)i'eadin^' out and 
 admirint;' half a yard of Turkey-red, the wind whipped 
 it out of his fingers an<l blew it overl)oard. In an in- 
 stant the owner dropped his loin-cloth, and over the 
 rails he wont with a jnmp, feet first into the water. 
 As he rose to the surface he spie*! his pr(M'ious two- 
 penceworth on the crest of a wave, and struck out 
 bohlly until he reaehe<l it. Fortunately for him, there 
 were some repairs j;"oing on in tlu^ eniyine-room, and 
 we were at only half speed; (n'en then, ])y th(( time ho 
 turned round to come back ho was half a mile astern. 
 The captain jjjood-naturodly put about the ship and 
 picked him np. 
 
 By 9 VM. Thursday we W(M"e anchored oft' Baudawe, 
 
 |.i 
 
 11 
 ii 
 
VS«.AV««J«tt**._ 
 
 ! 
 
 ,; 
 
 § 
 
 I 1 1 
 
 i' 
 
 , If; I f' 
 
 11' i. 
 
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 .i 'I 
 
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 II ii 
 
 i' H' t 
 
 I. 
 
 I I 
 
 ■ i 
 
 312 
 
 REALITY ytiRSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 and, late as tlio liour was, went ashore in the sliip's 
 lioat to get my letters; having been fourteen months 
 without a single word tVom home, 1 eould not wait 
 until morning, now that 1 was so near. On landing, 
 we nuulo for the mission house, l)ut on r«'a<'hing it I 
 Avas almost breathless. The cough, which during the 
 last few days' rest on the water had eased off a little, 
 became aggravated by the short walk through the deep, 
 stiff black sand, and a severe paroxysm came on, so 
 that it was some time before I could speak. All the 
 innuites luid retired except Dr. Elmslie, who hand'vl me 
 the longed-for package. But the latest from Jamnica 
 is dated Deeeml)er i;{, 1891, so that there is still a blank 
 of nine months ; surely some of my letters must hav(^ 
 gone astray. I trudged back to my shakedown on the 
 ship's deck. A high breeze was blowing, but the night 
 was not cold. 
 
 Next morning I returned to Bandawe Station, so as 
 to visit it l)y daylight. Dr. Elmslie gave im^ a cordial 
 invitation to stay there until the return of the steamer 
 from Karonga, when I purposed proceeding to Lokomo. 
 Bandawe is situated on a sandy promontory, bounded 
 on the west by the Angoni Mountains, about a hun- 
 dred and seventy miles north of j\[ponda. The mission 
 premises, which are built of brick, with grass roofs, 
 form a straight line, running north and south, consist- 
 ing of dwellings, school or meeting-house, carpenter's 
 shop, and printing-room. Like all other stations on 
 the flat lake shore, it is far from healthy. The heat is 
 intense, and although the soil is deep sand, within a 
 few inches of the surface it is quite moist, giving 
 off an unwholesome vapor from the accumulation of 
 
'• m.-iCK liORY." 
 
 313 
 
 orjjfauic Muittcr swrpt down tVoiii tlio adjoiiiiiijj: hills 
 evory y«'ai'. IKtc, jis wr hiivr imttMl ('Is(>wli('n', tlio 
 iiiissioiiarios liavi' tried to irrow almo.st every kind of 
 Eu<i;lish ve,!J:;etal)les, hut witlnmt succ^'ss. Tliey are 
 oblijj^ed to depend inaiuly on imported food-stutVs, with 
 oceasioiial supplies of sweet i)otatoes from the hills. 
 
 The chief feature of the l^>au(lawe mission is its lar^e 
 day-sehool. A nund»er of the Itoys are hoarders, hut 
 a good many eom«? from the neiglil)orinji: villa,i;es as 
 day-seholai's. The natives are now hei;inninj,' to api»re- 
 ciato cihication, hut it lias heen a ionu', hard strugj;le 
 to attain even this; for hei-e, as on the Zamhesi, many 
 abandon the pursuit of knowledge after the lirst week 
 or two, when wages for "working hook" is denied 
 them. But one and all fully realize the benefits ae<M'U- 
 ing from the presence of the missionai'ies among them, 
 not only for the medical aid they receive, hut also 
 protection, as attacks from hostile triljes or the slave- 
 traders are now rare. 
 
 In reference to the hitter, it must he said that, wliile 
 there can Ije no <[uestion that a very extensive tralTHcj 
 in "Ijlack ivory" still exists around Xyasa, and wliihi 
 it will ever be the earnest purpose of (;very true friend 
 of the African to do all that can ])e done to stam[) out 
 this fearful scourge, we must take <'are that mere senti- 
 ment is not i>ermitte(l to control tiic pen that rejiorts 
 the doings of the Arabs and their native allies. That 
 this is no imaginary danger is conclusive fi'om facts 
 gathered during our sojourn in these regions. For 
 example: a leaflet addressi'd to thechildren of the 
 Free Cliurch of Scotland, in the form of a letter from 
 a missionary at the north end of the lake, h(?aded 
 
•{14 RE/1 LIT Y VERSUS ROM/fNCE. 
 
 " 's TlirtH! Iluudrt'd Hluvo Childron," roads as 
 
 follows : 
 
 "All my littlo scholars at tlio school aro from tho 
 Wankoiidr' villajjj«'s — the very children that the Arabs 
 fought for and longed to enslave. Tlioy are, every on(^ 
 of them, naked and helitless. (rod has rescned them 
 from tho slaver's cruel hand, and they look to us, 
 Couhl not the <'hildren of the Sahhath-scliools at homc! 
 do a little for the three hundred naked, helpless Wan- 
 konde chihh'en whom wo have j!:ra('iously saved from 
 tho cruel goree-stick and slavery?" 
 
 What these statements are worth may be gjathorod 
 from the followinjjj facts. In tho first place, tho chil- 
 dren referred to never irrrr slaves, and therofoi'o not 
 objects for rescue (even to use his own words, tho 
 Arabs only " louf/cd to enslave them "), but attend a 
 school organized some years ago by ^Fr. Fotheringham. 
 Moreover, tlioy aro provided with both food and lodg- 
 ings by their parents, who in almost every ease live in 
 tho villages of the neighborhood. Nor are they or their 
 parents in any way soliciting connniseration, seeing 
 that their lot is cast in one of the ricliest and most 
 jiroductive parts of Nyasaland, and that they are ex- 
 posed perhaps less than most triljos to Aral) rai<ls, 
 protected, as they are, by the guns on the fort of the 
 African Lakes Company. 
 
 What has been the result of this pathetic account of 
 slave rescue? Why, the people of Scotland could not 
 be deaf to such an appeal, and in a brief space twelve 
 hundred pounds were contril)uted. What has been 
 done with it ? Nothing ! because the object for which 
 it was given existed only on paper. 
 
' reads as 
 
 I from tlio 
 the Arji])s 
 every oiio 
 'lU'd tlicm 
 ok to us. 
 s jit lionio 
 less Wau- 
 iv^t'd from 
 
 » g^athorod 
 !, the cliil- 
 coforo not 
 v'ords, the 
 attend a 
 eringliani. 
 and lodg- 
 iso live in 
 'y or tlieir 
 )n, seeing 
 and most 
 y are ex- 
 •al) raids, 
 )rt of the 
 
 ceount of 
 could not 
 ce twelve 
 has been 
 'or which 
 
I 
 
 hi 
 
 ■i I 
 
 i' i 
 
A * 
 
 UNCK^ Tin LI. SUlr'HS. 
 
 :;ii 
 
 
 
 ^1 ; '■ 
 
 i-'Mi^ 
 
 ■£ 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 Sucli jiolicy oil tlic i»;ift of .'iiiy Jiiiin is suicidal to 
 tJM' ciiusc lit' si't'ks lt» iMlviiiift'. 'riit'ic arc plenty of 
 fjcimiiic jiidI Just claims on tlic syinpatliics of tlic 
 ItciicN'olciil, williout conjuring' ii|» siirli yai'iis as tliis. 
 IMiilaiitliropists <|o not liUc hcinu' >"/'/ any nioi'c than 
 slaves, an*l the next call, Ihounii |>rol»iil»ly deserving, 
 
 \vill sulVer in co|ISe(|Ucnce. 
 
 Dr. Klinslic had his ai'tloi* somewhat dampi'il on the 
 question of lilteratin.u" slaves last week, lleariiin' that 
 a slave caravan was passin;;" throun'h a villav,'e ji eotipio 
 of miles from the station, tlii'ce leachei-s with a few 
 lads took their i;uns and stai'tcd oil" to interview the 
 half-lireeds in charu'c. On the appcai'ance of the mis- 
 sion hoys in the camp, the supposed slavers, suspeetini; 
 that white men were not fai' off iind feariim' trouMe, 
 took to their heels. Many of the cai-avan followed 
 suit, leaving' lifteen of tlieii- numlier. mostly sv(»nien, 
 Itehind. These the teachers lii'ouiihl on to Handawe, 
 Avliere comfoi'talile liuts wei'c assigned them and plenty 
 of food, altliouiih, »)n the whole, they did not appear 
 to have sulVei'e(| mucli on the niai'ch. Tin' doctor sat 
 down forthwith to reitoi't the cii'cunistance to the home 
 comniittoe; l»ut what was his suriM'ise next nioi'nin,n', 
 on visitin.n' their liuts, for the i»urj»ose of ol>tainin.!j,' 
 fuller iid'ormation concerinns.^' them, to find that, with 
 the excM'ption of one woman and her chiM, the whole 
 «;an,t:; of captured slaves had run away during' the 
 ui.u'ht, and retui'iie<l to the very people from whom 
 they had Ween res<'Ued the <l,)y hefoi-e. iiathei- an nn- 
 roiuantic termination to the alTaii". r>ut it teaches the 
 important lesson that we must discriminate lietwecii 
 slave-trad in<;- an«l domestic slavery. 
 
I ) 
 
 i i^; 
 
 H-l 
 
 * I 
 
 n i 
 
 :i i 
 
 UG 
 
 Ri-Ai.iTY ri:Rsrs ROM.-im:i: 
 
 TIm^ wlioh^ life of ('(Mitral AtVicii is jxTinontcMl with 
 a system of slav«M'y, which llio natives themselves havo 
 no desire to see altolished, allhouuh i1 must come in 
 lime, lint hiiih-handed measures will aeeom|»lisli little 
 in this (lir(M'tion; rather let force he conceiitratecl to 
 ai'i'est the cruel and hloodv work of the Arahs, who 
 
 *■ 7 
 
 raid and capture slaves for yain oidy. 
 
 1 succee«h>d in takinii; s*>veral i)liotos of ^•i-ou])s of 
 native women Avho were employed on the jtremises as 
 lahorers in the consti'uction of a dwellinu;-house. I 
 here Jiive one of these uronps. Those in th(> fore- 
 <;round are mostly old women, showing' the deformity 
 of the features [H'oduced hy wearin,i>' the pi'lclc in the 
 upper lij>. This i'e])ulsive custom is not contined to 
 the old; l>ut no soonei' was t he camera jtlaced in posi- 
 tion and mv h(>ad hidd<'n heneath the focusinu-cloth, 
 than u[> went the hands of the youiiue)' women to theii' 
 months, and the ring's, etc., wei-e wlii}>)>ed out (]uick as 
 a wink. The old women, however, are less sensitiv(>, 
 and in them this lij) "impi'ox'er" rencjies the maximum 
 of size, in some cases to nearly tlie diajuetei" of a nap- 
 kin v'mix', and when such attemi)t a smile, the contrac- 
 tion of tho risorial muscles throws th(> lip nj) with a 
 jei'k, and forms a circle round the ti]) (»f their Hat i)U<'- 
 noses that jx'e}) tlu'oUi>li the opening', wliile a row of 
 V-shaped, cat-lik(> teeth is displayed, ^'ivinj;' the wearer 
 a most ludicrous appearance. 
 
 ^IMie i^irls havt' their lips ])iei'ced when \-ery younj;'. 
 A straw oi' thi'ead is inserted to keep the hole open; 
 then a small ))iec(» of bamhoo or l)one, <iradually inci'eas- 
 iiii;' in size, nntil the ortliodox rinu" <'an be avoi'ii, I>ut 
 tho pclcic assumes many forms — a bit of ivoiy, oi' wood 
 
r.inooixa 
 
 .>!< 
 
 rnioated with 
 'insclvcs Ijjivo 
 iiust conic in 
 oniplisli lilll(> 
 icciitrjitcd to 
 vVi'abs, wlio 
 
 i>r ^roiijis of 
 premises ns 
 i,i;'-Iioiisc. I 
 ill llie I'orc- 
 10 (leronnity 
 j)rlr/f in tlu^ 
 confined to 
 iced in ])osi- 
 Misiiiii-clofli, 
 men jo ilioii- 
 »id (jnick as 
 ■<s s<'nsitive, 
 <' niaxiimini 
 iM" of a naj)- 
 tlic contrac- 
 ' up witli a 
 'ir flat imi>-_ 
 l<' a row of 
 llie w(>arer 
 
 shaped like a cotton Vicl, or, what is ^n'atly admired, 
 ji piece of wliite (piartz from an inch 1o two inches in 
 len^'th, lookin«>' very ninch as if they Iwid stuck in tlie 
 end of a wax candle. 
 
 Tlu^ pi.ictice of tattooiiii;- tiie hody is usual, hut witli- 
 ont any ain'urent trihal pattern or desii;n,as we noticed 
 anion,i;" the ({ani^ueiiians, in whieli district it is (Hiite 
 universal, hoth sexes lieini;- elahorately tattooed. The 
 (jan^iiella trihal mark anioii<;' the men seems to he an 
 arran«;"ement of four lar,i;e diamoials, thon,<;h other 
 forms are used to adorn the main patt«M'ii. The women 
 tattoo freely, hnt prefer lines across the hody to more 
 complicated figures. There are dilTerent methods em- 
 ploye<| to [M'odnce these decorations. In one the kiiit'c- 
 
 poi 
 
 nt is inserte(l under the cuticle to admit the char 
 
 coal, ])ii;inent, or even, in some instance 
 
 U'lmi 
 
 )OW(ler 
 
 in others the skin is nu'relv scratched with tiie knil'i 
 
 w 
 
 hih 
 
 e 111 a third tii(> iismd }>laii ot tattooinu' is loljowed, 
 when some shari>-]>ointed instrument is nse(l to i»rick 
 in the d(>sired — disfiuiireineiit. 
 
 Alonu' the shores o 
 
 I' Xv 
 
 isa, as ainon.i'" all the trilies 
 
 north of the Zanihesi, trial i»y ordeal, or the ''miiavi" 
 test, is j)racticed extensively, and is resorted to, not 
 only for the piir|)ose of "smelliiii;' out" witchcrart, or 
 to convict persons snspi'ctetl of crime, hnt in the most 
 trivial quarrels is often the arbitrator for settlemeiii of 
 the dispute. Only t '-day a man came viishin,i;' into the 
 mission yard a]>])eaHii,n' to Dr. Filmslie for help, as he 
 had taken a Ions;' and ;: stronu' pull from the |>oisoii- 
 p)iird. One of his wi\'es and himself li;i\iiii;' lunl a 
 disai;M'eement, it was mutuall\' <lecid(Ml that tlii'V i»(<tli 
 take the test, wiru-li they did. The wife infused the 
 
 f ( 
 
 -. ' >i 
 
 >i} 
 
;UH 
 
 RI.AUIY VERSUS ROMANCI-. 
 
 M, 
 
 m 
 
 i ■ 
 
 I ;?( 
 
 i ■!; 
 
 ■ ; 
 
 1 ' 
 
 i I' 
 
 ]><)isoii()ns (Iccoctioii of bark mid took tlu^ first drink, 
 iiiid iiimM'(liji1('ly ('(Miiiih'IkmmI to vomit — a sure indica- 
 tion tliat she was in rlic ri^lit. Bnt the lius>)and was 
 not s<» roi-lnnalc, lor, iiavinj;' finished tlic potion, it did 
 not react as lie had hoped, and, tearing? deatli, re])ented 
 <ir what he liad done, and nnuh' foi' the mission liouse, 
 wlien n i)romi>t enietic pnt him out of (hin<;c>r. 
 
 .\s a rule, natives who are conscious of their inno- 
 <'enc(^ tak«i th(* lest readily, as tliey Iwivo the fullest <'on- 
 fidenc(^ that the "niuavi" will convict <»nly the guilty. 
 
 Wlien a chief suspects a I'cvolutionary si>ii'it, or any 
 lack of iidejity on the part of liis subjects, tli<' Avitcli- 
 <loctor is dis])atche(| to assend)le the reci'cant \'illa;i;or.s 
 and ()i-<;'ani/e a hi,*;' nniavi-di'inkiny", so as to sift out the 
 traitors. ^Vll classes and both sexes ai'e put on their 
 ti'ial, without i-espect of p<'rsons. 
 
 Three months a^o a <'ase of this kind occuri'ed a short 
 <listance f)"om hei'e, l>y onler of the chief, Chikusi. Ojio 
 of tlu5 Tjivinj>stonia ♦nission stalf refers to it in the Free 
 Church of ScotUdxl Moitfhl// : 
 
 "The chief sent liis sinuanu'a (w itch-doctoi-) and tln^ 
 royal 'muavi'as a trial of theii- sul»jection. That in 
 part accounted fo)- its imjjortance. Jt s<'ems that every- 
 body in the villages, men, women, and cliildren above 
 nine or ten years old — many of oui" school-children 
 anioni;' them — had <h'unk it, and that a few from a <lis- 
 lance only rcMnained for Saturday's drinkiuji;'. Seven 
 in all were foun<l «h'ad — cast out to tlie vultures — in- 
 cluding' an old white-hair<'d man and wife, and the 
 headman of the villai-i s, but no children. Dr. Ilenrv 
 insist<;d oi» the bui'ial of the corj»ses. Some seeuied 
 only too willing' to do so, now that the sin^an^'a daro 
 
 i 
 
 ;i; 1; 
 
HOIUNG-PLr/ ORl)i:.U.. 
 
 ll'J 
 
 I' fij'st (Irink, 
 .sure iiKJic.-i- 
 liiishjiiid wjis 
 )otioii, it <li(l 
 ith, r('j»cnf('(l 
 ssiou lions* '. 
 
 not iiiterforc. Tlio }>ossossioiis of tliosc wlio dit'd wci'c 
 taken oft" to Tslii]»oloj>olo (llic sult-cliicf who l>i'oii,ulit 
 ic ('lMr<;v ii^'aiiist tli<' victims iiiid jiitiM-jilt'd to Chikii 
 
 SI 
 
 tl 
 
 for til*' tri.-d). 
 
 "Anotlicr iii{in\i-driid<iiiy: took place last Friday, id 
 wliicdi two of our s(diooli:;irls — little tilings of te.i (>! 
 <d(!ven years old — and a woman died, TIk' excuse was 
 tlie death of a man in theii" villa<;'e," 
 
 Althou<;h this custom exists in the i.ai-otse N'alley, 
 tli(> Marotsi i>i'efei- to poui- the poisonous decoction 
 down the thi'oat of a do.u' or a fowl, and jndye of the 
 innocence or ^uilt of the indicti'(l party l>y the elTect 
 the poison produces on the animal — vomitinj;' heinu sup- 
 posed to Ix' pl'oof positive of imioceiice, while [»ui'<:,in«; 
 
 im 
 
 licat 
 
 es <-•'. 
 
 lilt. 
 
 Th(^ faA'oi'ite ordeal of this class in the liarotse is that 
 of the " l)<)ilin<;--i)ot." The last that took ]tla<'e;it Lialui 
 was l»rou,i;"ht about by a slave cai'i'vin^' a piece of raw 
 meat throuijfli licwainka's i-eception-i'oom, a few drojts 
 of blood fallin.ii: on his mat. The constei-natioii and 
 alai'in of the ii'reat man at this, to him, an omen ])oi'- 
 tendin,i;" every ill, may be ima.u'ined, and not a momt'iit 
 was lost in summoning? all the sorce!-«'i's and wise men 
 of the capital, wlx'U it was decided to try tiie effect of 
 the " boilini^-pot " in sheddiu!;' li.uht on the subject. 
 
 The natives a,e assendiled as for the ''niuavi'' ti'ial. 
 Those sus[»ected of iiavinj;- evil desii;ns auainst the 
 kin<2: are sini-'le*! out ai the insti.u'atioii of the witcji- 
 do'ttor, the names of whom he pi'ofesses to I'ead in his 
 l)jisk"t of tri(d<s. Of such tliere may be matiy — twenty, 
 thirtv, fortv, or more — who are each in turn i'e(piire(l 
 
 111 
 
 to tlip their hand three times into th(^ boilin;;' water 
 
 i 
 

 k 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 fSma 
 
 
 ;.•■ 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 
 111: 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 iijl 
 
 
 \ 
 
 '■; i 
 
 u 
 
 Bai 
 
 
 
 
 h ■ 
 
 320 
 
 ri:ai.ity yuRsus romanci-. 
 
 If iu'ioeont, it is sui»posed that this slioulcl luive ik> 
 cilVct on their skin, Avhich, 8traii,ij:e to say, is very oftcMi 
 the case, esitocially on the thick and shriveled skin of 
 the old; hut with the majority lar^-e blisters are pro- 
 duced, iuid they are pronounced guilty, and sent(>nce(l 
 either to bo knob-kerried, speared, or thrown to the 
 crocodiles. • 
 
 Keturnin<jj to the subject of mission stations, I think 
 it has ber n demonstrated beyond the shadow of a doubt 
 that only hii;h altitudes — as far as possible from tlu' 
 low-lying" swamps, or valleys In'mmed in by hills — 
 should be selected as sites. If stations must be planted 
 on the tiats, let them be occupied only occasionally by 
 white mi'n, nnd then onlv during' seasons of the vear 
 when the exhalation of malaria is least active. The 
 Angoni Hills, for instanc(\ have proved comparatively 
 hcidthy ; the land is fertile, cattle thrive, and much in 
 the way of veg'etables, so essential to the health of 
 Enroi)eans, can ])e grown in abundance. 
 
 The Li\ ingstonia ]\[ission has two stations in Ango- 
 niland since ISS'J ; Xjuyu, where a church has been 
 formed with nine mendicrs, and Ekwendeni. There 
 are not the same hindrances in East Central Africa to 
 Christian Avork as exist farther south and west ; the in- 
 tense <larkness and gross ignorance are all over alike, 
 but tlh' power of the chiefs is not so great. They exert 
 little or no influence ov :' the home-life of the people; 
 nor is att(Midance on religious instruction, efforts to im- 
 pi'ove their condition or rise in the scale of civilization, 
 vetoed by autocratic rulers, as in the Barotse or ^Nlate- 
 bel<'land. In a word, thei'e is liberty of conscience. 
 This is a point of great impcu'tance, and a very encour- 
 
h 
 
 l.OKOMM. 
 
 'V>1 
 
 agjiiiju: aiiijuiy for tlio futiirt' of missions in the vast 
 rcjjfions boundinjj: tlio beautiful Nyasa. 
 
 On Thursday, Soptoiubcr Utii, the "Domira" ro- 
 turnod from the north end, when ] learned, to my dis- 
 may, that she would have to put up at L(>koma for re- 
 pairs and j?o baek to Karonga for passenj^crs. This is 
 a sore disappointment to me, as 1 shall miss the Octo- 
 ber stoanu'r from Quilimane, and slwdl probably have 
 to wait a whole month at the coast for the November 
 mail. But 1 am helidess in the mattei-, for a land jour- 
 ney is not to be thou<;ht of, owin^' to the disturbed con- 
 dition of the natives on both sides of the lake. 1 ,i;ot 
 on board, and crossed over to Lokoma eai'ly on Friday 
 
 mornmg. 
 
 This is an island ten miles from the mainland. It is 
 {ibout five nules long- and three wide, with a population 
 of over two thousand natives, speaking:; the (Miiiianji 
 language. There is but little veg(^tation on the ishind 
 except baobabs; these are nunuu'ous, and some of them 
 very large. The soil is poor, as may be said of most of 
 the lake shore; the only products are sand and stones, 
 and a stunted species of manioc. Half a mile fi'oiii the; 
 beach we find the lieadquai-ters of the Universities Mis- 
 sion, surrounded by several small hills, that look as if 
 they were formed of debris thrown up from some big 
 excavation. 
 
 The mission premises consist of a number of detached 
 reed huts, the domiciles of the several membei's of the 
 staff; the church, also of reeds; and a schoolroom, 
 store, and boys' dormitory, built of stone and mud. 
 Archdeacon ]Mai)les, well known for his untiring energy 
 and devotion to mission work, and, withal, genial, hos- 
 
 :t 
 
 \\ 
 
 .^M^ 
 

 Rl-AUTY VHRSUS ROMANCli. 
 
 l)itu])lo, and kind, is in charjjjo of the station. He is as- 
 sisted l»y some seven or eijji^lit wliite workers, men aiid 
 women, and also hy several native teaehers from Zanzi- 
 bar. The mission has two small steamers, the "Charles 
 »]ansen"and the "Beta." The former is nsed ehiefiy 
 for visiting the numerous villages along the coast, and 
 is und(^r the eommand of the Rev. AV. Johnson. 
 
 The niodic! operandi of the service on Sunday morning 
 should satisfy the most exacting ritualist. The church 
 is floored with mats, on which the natives scjuat, pros- 
 trating themselves one by one as they come in. A 
 few benches are placed near the altar for the white por- 
 tion of the audience and for the native choir, who are 
 surpliced in white and cassocked in purple. These en- 
 ter at the conunencement of the service in procession, 
 headed by a larg*^ brass cross; the priests bring up the 
 rear, crossing and bowing themselves in front of the 
 altar l)efore taking their places. The service is jirinci- 
 pally choral, and the archdeacon, being a splendid nui- 
 sician, adds great effect to the chanted litui'gy l)y his 
 brilliant execution on the organ. The choir-boys give 
 evidence of careful vocal training, their intoning and 
 chanting being performed with automatic precision. 
 
 The congregation embraces a large membership, the 
 majority being women, who wear the distinguishing 
 badge — a small cross round their necks; in many in- 
 stancies, however, their fetich charms are not displaced 
 ])y this latter addition to their adornments. 
 
 I believe this mission is considered a great success 
 by the ritualistic party. And if advanced High-Church 
 lines indicate success, surely we have it here. To say 
 nothing of the full choral service, with its priestly 
 
on. He is as- 
 kci's, moil and 
 •s from Zuiizi- 
 , tlH'"("liarlos 
 < usod oliiofly 
 tlic coast, and 
 
 lllSOll. 
 
 lulay morning 
 
 Tlio cliurcli 
 
 s squat, pi'os- 
 
 oome in. A 
 :lie Avhito por- 
 lioir, wlio are 
 (\ Theso ('11- 
 n pi'ocossion, 
 
 bring- up the 
 
 front of tlie 
 v\ei' is priiici- 
 splendid iiiu- 
 itui-gy by liis 
 oir-boys give 
 intoning and 
 c precision, 
 nbersliip, the 
 istingiiisliing 
 
 in many in- 
 not disjilaced 
 
 [j,Teat success 
 
 Iligh-Churcli 
 
 lere. To say 
 
 its priestly 
 
K 
 
 s <■ 
 
 i '.■ 
 
 <-\ ' 
 
 m U 
 
 H 
 
 i s 
 
 : ! - 
 
 1; ! 
 
 ti 
 
 \\ ,. f r ) 
 
 ri i . 
 
 •'i 
 
 ,1 u - -i^t-^-— ■ 
 
A7:/r/v\V TO ULIXDKI:. 
 
 ^ 
 
 :!i»3 
 
 \ 
 
 '•\ 
 
 
 2i 
 
 7, 
 
 n 
 
 i3 i; 
 
 < 
 
 'J 
 
 1- 
 
 
 
 vobos, prostrations, juid <j;t>iiufl(M'ti()iis, its (Mnircssioiuil 
 and hij^lily (Iccoratt'd altar, its crosses, crucifixt's, etc, 
 wo huvo, as indicating- advanced Ili'-ii-Cliurcliisin, the 
 Sunilay at'tornoon t'ootltall and <'ricket matches, in 
 which tho elor<i,y take active part. 
 
 Tlmrsday, 21st. Anothei- wejiry week of \vaitiii.<;' for 
 tlic return of the "Doniira"; Itut slie is liei-e iit hist, 
 and Ity sunset wo are headin,u I'or Cape Mcd.ear, and 
 in thirty-six hours more anciiored a,u'ain at Mp(»n(hi. 
 Iloro I h't't tlio sti^amer, and in an open hoat proceeded 
 (h)\vn tho Shiro. (ioin,*;- witli the current, we made 
 good progress, and early on the nioi-ning of Tuesday, 
 tho "JUth, hunhMl at ^Nfatope. ('ari'iei's lieing in icadi- 
 m^ss, after a hurried breakfast we started for 15Iantyi'o. 
 Tho liills were stiff to climl), and the day excessively 
 hot, so tluit it was far into tho night Ix'fore we readied 
 the ndssion station. Next ihiy I engage(l carriers to 
 take my luggage to Katunda, purchasecl some })rovi- 
 sions for the road, and starteil on Thursday morning, 
 with many adicnx to my Scotch friends at lilantyre, 
 whose open-lieart(Ml and unpi'etentious kiiKhiess has 
 done so much to restore, strengthen, and cheer me, ar- 
 riving among them, as I did, worn out, weary, and sick 
 from my k^ng journ(>y, witli its varied and trying ex- 
 periences of privation and difficulties. 
 
 Leaving Blantyre, we set out for the river. Coming 
 upon some water at noon, T sto])])e(l au<l iiuuk' a cui> of 
 cocoa; but as tliere was no shade fi'om the relentless 
 hoat of the soorclnng sun, we (k^kiye(l but a sliort time, 
 and reached Katunga at 7 r.M. T ]»ut up at the African 
 Lake Company's staticm again for the night, and next 
 morning fouud tiio boat and paddlers 1 had previously 
 
 . '1 
 
 !,•• 
 
'^'2-i 
 
 Rl-AiriY yHRSUS ROMANCH. 
 
 ■iii 
 
 <Mi<^a<;('(l all rcjuly; and by iiiiK! o'clock wc w«m'o afloat, 
 houiul for Cliindc. The run of clcvi'ii days down this 
 rivor was uneventful, thou;;h wo called at the "cus- 
 toms" Chironio, when I ^(»t hack my firearms, and had 
 sojiu* goo<l shootin<jj on the flats. Kain fell heavily for 
 several days in suc<'<'ssion, from which I had no jm'o- 
 tection hut a slight awning of p'ass at the stern of th<» 
 boat, so that everythinjj^ n'ot badly di-enche<l, jjcivin^ me 
 "wet blankets to sleep under for foui* nip^hts, and indu<'- 
 iny; a sharj) turn of fever, liut we reached Ciiindc* 
 safely on the lOtli of October, where, with what joy no 
 ton<j;ue can tell, I view at last the Indian Ocean, toward 
 which I have been travelinjj;" these manj' months. 
 
 Having missed the German mail for this month, I 
 luive secui'<?d, throu«;h tlu^ courtesy of (*ommand(>r Pin- 
 nis, K. N. of H. ]\[. S. " Swallow," a passage on board a 
 transport steamer, now in the river discharging cargo 
 for th(! lakes, and leaving in a few days for Port Said 
 via Zanzibar. 
 
 w '• ' 
 
 i III r 
 
CIIAPTHR XV 
 
 A ItiiTUoSPECT. 
 
 A Hiinimarv. — .Tiiinaii'iins. — Missionaii 
 
 ancM WMi 
 
 t.Ml. — F 
 
 I'Cllcll Illis.Hid!! X 
 
 lands 
 liclds. — Sparse ]Mipiilati(»ti. — Iiitci'iiVftcrs.—MrilicMl missions. —Kxtrava- 
 
 aloiic. — Tfstinions- in favur ul' West Indiai 
 
 I assislMiits. 
 
 r 
 
 gun 
 
 t waste of ability. — Native doct 
 
 ors. — ( 'oncdiision. 
 
 I 
 
 1) 
 
 N lookinjj^ back ovi'v the past <'i*j:littM>ii months siii('(> 
 huMliiij^ at Bt'iiii'iichi, and ovt'i' tlic thousands of 
 lilos I liav«^ travorsod, the <|U('s1ion arises, How far 
 
 lias the purposo of my journey lieen re;ili/,ed '! 
 
 So far as my dosire to .see and leain the condition 
 an<l need of the.sc iv«;ions is coiK-erned, I liave lieen 
 <»:i'atifiod l)oyoii<l my most sanguine anticii)ations; for 
 at most I had only expected to be able to make sti'ai»;'ht 
 for Nvasa tlirouuli tlic Katani;a count rv — after ail, a 
 road no loiij^er unkuowu, since the i-emarkable joui-ney 
 of ]\[r. Sharp and tlu' iU-fated expedition of Captain 
 Stairs, botli of wliom started ahnost siniult.ineously 
 with myself, althou<;'h from o]>posit<' directions. liut I 
 have been p rmitted to ti-avol thi-ouyh the interest im? 
 and but little known Gannnelhi country and tlie famous 
 Zambesi Valley; to s(M>oneof the worM's i;'i'eatest won- 
 ders, the Victoria Falls; to taste the bitters of the Kala- 
 hari Desert; to visit Bechuanaland and nmder medical 
 aid to the ,i;ood chief Khama and his people durin<;' the 
 fever epidemic; to trek over the desolate and dreary 
 
 ;i'j.'. 
 
1 
 
 >,' 
 
 I 
 
 t 
 
 i^ 
 
 
 H I 
 
 1 ; 
 
 \h 
 
 i ; 
 
 I 
 
 'V 
 
 ■ 
 
 ■ h 
 
 i JM 
 
 ' * 
 
 li f 
 
 Mr 
 
 II 
 
 
 i 
 fi t 
 
 !1> 
 
 i I 
 
 >,! 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 :{L'(; 
 
 KH.n.riY n:Rsvs rom.incj:. 
 
 wjistt's of MjisIioiiiiIiiikI ; to wiitdi llic iiiiiit'i's |t»'<;:<j:iii<j; 
 out tlifii' cltiiitis ill MiiirK'iiliiiid ; iiihI to roiiiii tlii'<Mi;;'li 
 tilt' l»cjiiitiriil jiikI IVi'tilc — liiil l<» tlif jifojiTiiplu'i" jiliiiost 
 hliiiik — comiti'y of (iorou^o/ji ; hrsidcs Itciiij; pi'lvil(>;j;<'(| 
 to WfiiKlcr iiiiKHii; those pliKTs Tor wliidi tlic syiiipji- 
 tliit'sol" t lie ('hi'istijiii woi'M were lii-sl <'iilistiMl l»y the 
 l»('loV(<l liiviii^stoiM' — Lake Nyasu aii<l tlif lilaiityrc 
 l!i,i;lilaii(ls. 
 
 Al>art IVoui this, I had aiiti'-ipatcd testing- the (|m's- 
 tloii how far the services of the ( 'liristiaii natives ol' the 
 West Indies iiiiii'ht lie retiuisit ioiHMl as aids in mission 
 work ill this vast continent. ^ly liopes in this direc- 
 tion were founded |>ai'tly on i-eports from those in the 
 field, made piiMic tliroui;h missionary papers and pnh- 
 lislied letters, and pai'tly fi'om the fact that eveiy few 
 months there seemed to he fresh detachments ^oin^ 
 out to Central Africa, some under the aus])ices of soci- 
 eties, and some not ; until, in common with many oth- 
 ers, I felt that if ever tlu^ tramaican is to be hi'onuht 
 back to Ix'iieOt his fathei'land, it should lie now. 
 
 It is niinecessary luM'e to repeat what has already 
 ])een explained in the fii'st cliapter in reference to the 
 six youii^" men wlio accompanied me for this pui'pose. 
 As to how they journeyed with me to Cisamba, where 
 four of tliem remained, W\v> otlior two .i;'oin,n' as far as 
 INfanuwato, the i-eader ab'eady knows, lint when I state 
 that, fi'om the tinu^ Bilie on the west was left behind 
 and we arrived at lilanlyn* on tlio east, with the exce[>- 
 tion of the Freiicli mission on tlio Zambesi i did not 
 couH^ across a Kin<;le missionary laboring umon^' natives, 
 it will be better understood wliy I failed to find places 
 for the appointment of colored men, as all the way I 
 
J.IM.flC.-IS'S. 
 
 :\'27 
 
 WHS looking' for pioiiccrs «'iiirn}j:(Ml in flic work of IoiiihI- 
 iii^ IH'W stiiti(»iis, with wlioin lliriT iiiiy:lil !»•■ possiMc 
 oiM'iiiii;;s t'oi- (•(»loiv«| iissistimis, l.iit foimd tlinn not. 
 
 This, of course, hiis liccii n sore ilisiii»|>oiiilMi<'iif to 
 UH", hut hiis ill iio w!iy w»'jikt'iit'<l my former coiivirtioii 
 Hint, )>rovi(l<'(l wliite men willi syiiipathy for, jiinl l;iet 
 ill (li'iihll.U with, the eolored mee jire forthe(»mill,i; to 
 cuter the llllhrokelj mihI filllow fields of the interior, the 
 services of the .Ijimjiicjiiis ill niiiiiiuil l;ihor ns Imildcrs, 
 plillllcrs, etc., WollM he folllld ill Vilhlilhje. Ill il short 
 lime their wptilude for ;ic(|uiriiiu' the liiimiuine would 
 lit (hem for ilinernnl evjin.uelists, while their color 
 would iVe em|ihiisis to their words lieyond c\e|| those 
 of the white tcjieher, for whom, ;is the niindier (A' coii- 
 cessioii-liiiuters jind s]»eculjitors incrciise, ji nuirked prej- 
 udice in the ii!iti\'c Africiiii mind yrows stroller \eiir 
 l>v ycjir. 
 
 Hut wliy not include the mission in .Mii!i,u:w;ito iind 
 those of Miishoiuiliinil with the l''rencli mission; 
 
 l>e- 
 
 CflUSC, il 
 
 Ithou 
 
 •;ii there is ;i ehurch iiciirly com|i|ete(| in 
 
 Khuiiiii's town, there avjis no white missioiiiiry .it the 
 tiiiK! We passed tlirouyii, .iiid the stjitioiis at Salisluiry 
 and rnitali are so far intended only to meet the ropiire- 
 meiits (»f tlie influx of u'old-scekin.u' and inininu' I'iiiro- 
 jicaiis; hut I lia\e neither seen nor lieard of any efVort 
 bcin.u" made to reach the natives in Mash(»nalaiid ; tliere- 
 I'oro, missions to white men are not includc(| in the (pies- 
 tioii under consideration. The t"a<*t remains that the 
 French mission stands aloiH' as Iteiiiu; a<-tually eiii:;ai;ed 
 ill the evaiifi'elization of the lieath<'n in the «;'reat belt 
 of tei'ritory referrecl to. 
 
 It is not from mere personal partiality toward colore^l 
 
 dS^i- 
 

 M: 
 
 If mi' 
 
 i 
 
 1 ; 
 
 
 ! '■ 
 1 ' 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 L 
 
 : 
 
 1 
 
 i 'i 
 
 Hjl' 
 
 328 
 
 RHAUTY I'HRSUS ROMANCH. 
 
 moil tliat I am lod to think lii^hly of tlio pvospocts for 
 their future uscfuhu'ss in the mission fields of (central 
 Africa, but now from actual experience, and the testi- 
 mony of those to whom they have rendered servic(», as 
 expi-essed verl)ally aiul by letter. The first of the latter 
 ^ was from the Rov. W. T. Currie of (Msandta, referring 
 to those left with him, and which I received while in 
 the Ganguella country: 
 
 Canadian Statioi;, Cisamha, West Africa, 
 
 Septt'iulK'r 15, ISDl, 
 
 Dear Dr. Johnston : Let me In-iefly wisli you farewell, witli a 
 smcere "(lod be with you till we meet again.'' Your visit to this 
 station has been for us most pleasant. After a long season of lone- 
 liness and hea^y work, which liad greatly tried my strength, you 
 came with a strong arm and a warm heart to cheer and help in time 
 of lUH'd If, in return, I have been able to assist you in any way, 
 rest assured that I have done so with the utmost pleasure. 
 
 The men you have left with me at this stati(m supply a long-felt 
 need of our work here. 
 
 The bearing of the men lias thus far increased our i-espect for a!id 
 confidence in them. They have already w<ni the affection of my 
 l>oys, even though they can speak to them l)ut few words. They 
 have begun the study of the language, and can sing most of our 
 liymns; have several times helpctl my boys when holding evangel- 
 istic services in the native villages. Their special value to us at 
 present is perhaps in the line of building, and 1 am sure, from what 
 they have already d<me, that they will be abh and willing so to 
 relieve us from much work that we may devote much more time 
 than we otherwise could to the instruction of the yoxing, and to the 
 preaching of the gospel to the people at large in this couiitry. . . . 
 
 Yours sinci>rely, 
 
 W. T. CUKHIE. 
 
 Mr. Currie is one of the very few having the tact and 
 firmness, coui)led with uniform kindness, so i:;>cessaiy 
 
- «UMr) 4ithi.-'*iaf$EZi^ ik. idi^aM 
 
 MESSRS. CURRIF. AND HLUOTT. 
 
 ;]29 
 
 ii'ospocts for 
 Is of (Vnitml 
 kI tlio testi- 
 1 soi'vico, as 
 of tlio latter 
 »a, ivf erring 
 ^od wliile in 
 
 West Africa, 
 ber 15, ISDl. 
 rt'well, with u 
 ir visit to this 
 eason ot h)iu>- 
 stn'ng-th, you 
 (1 help in time 
 u ill !in_\- way, 
 ire. 
 }ly u loiifjr-fclt 
 
 S))('('t \\)V ii!l(l 
 
 tH'tioii of my 
 ivords. Tlicy 
 most oi' our 
 iiif? ovjinj'el- 
 iluf to us ilt 
 e, from what 
 ivilhiiii' «) to 
 h moro timo 
 J', and to tho 
 iiitry. . . . 
 
 CUBUIE. 
 
 (' tact and 
 i:;M'(>ssaiy 
 
 ill a iiiissiounry who has tlic iiiaiiai:;cui<Mit of colored 
 ■workers; so that when he left tlu' station on ac<'ount 
 of ill-health for a prolonoed fnrlouoh, the men 1 left 
 with him lost heart, jjjot disconraoed, and coiiclu<led to 
 follow, overtakin<; ^\x. Cnrrie at the coast, eventnally 
 returning with him to Enoland, and afterward findinjij 
 their way back to Jamaica. 
 
 Tn one particular, the rclurn of thes«' men lo the 
 coast proved a most fortunate incident, as they found 
 ^Fr. Currie down with a seven> att;ick of fever, and reii- 
 <ler(Ml very opi)ortuiui s«'rvice, as the foilowino- extract 
 fi'om a sul)se<iuent letter from Mi'. Currie states: 
 
 " Please remember me very kindly t<> the native 
 ])rethren. Often do I seem to heai' their voices sin<j;- 
 in<;' so sweetly, as they did at our prayer-meet inj^s. 
 (rod ))less them! They kindly «'ai'ed for me when I 
 had no power to raise my head, and surely I cannot 
 soon foro;et them.''' 
 
 The Rev. W. Elliott, with whom I intrusted Frater 
 and Jonathan (who had traveled with me as f;ii' as 
 Bechuanalan<l) and who left with him I'oi' the ('ai>e, 
 writinj^ to the head(iu;irtei's of the .bimaica Mission, 
 notifyino- their depanure for h(»me, says: 
 
 " We shall lie very sorry to lose them indevd. Their 
 briy,'ht hearts and faces hiive cheered oui' depi-essed 
 sjtirits, and their hearty wilimii'ness to he!j) in (til the 
 work of the joui'ney has made them fjivorites with ns 
 all. I earnestly ho[>e to u'et tin Iielp of one oi- )iioi'e of 
 them, or their friends, in oui- Matebeh' mission in a 
 year or two, or i>erhaps eai'Hei'. 
 
 "Jonathan cari'ies iiway a sad lieai't fi-om Afi'ica b<^- 
 cause he has been able to do so little for 'he Saviour. 
 
 'I . .'iM>imf*^*i>m^i!mmmi:ti: 
 
;i; IF 
 
 1 '5 
 
 :":i 
 
 (i 
 
 ■.'>■}' 
 
 f fif 
 
 I i 
 
 t Iff f^*fl r 
 
 I 
 
 'i 
 
 330 
 
 REALITY (VERSUS R0M/1NCE. 
 
 He and Frater Lave both done mneli for us, and you 
 know what vahie Christ puts ^.n a 'cup of cold water ^ 
 given to His eliildren. 
 
 " I hope to have a talk with them botli about getting 
 help for our iMatel)ele, and I shall wi'ite to Dr. Johnston 
 too on the same subject when I know more of our own 
 movements tlian I do at present. 
 
 " We part from them as from friends long tried. 
 May God give them hon voyage and a happy return to 
 their homes."' 
 
 As to thf' prospect for future mission work, several 
 places along i.iy route impressed me as being very 
 hopeful as well as needy " fields," such as, commencing 
 at the Avest, Ciyuka in Bilie, Ongandu by the Kukema 
 Kiver, Kongovia l)y the Kwanza — l)oth the last-named 
 in tile Ganguella country ; while farther east Kan- 
 gandja, {ind, passing over the Barotse Valley and Bech- 
 uanaland, we come to the little-known but thickly in- 
 habited region of (Jorongoza. In none of these places 
 has mission work been attempted in any form what- 
 ever; and why I woidd esi)ecially emphasize the imjior- 
 tance of these [tlaces as inviting spheres is: first, so far 
 as the climate is concerned they were the healthiest 
 districts we came across; second, they were among the 
 A'ery few places where we were able to obtain vege- 
 tal)les, proving that the soil was sufficiently fertile to 
 yield something more than the ordinary Kaffir-corn ; 
 third, owing to the natives being governed ])y petty 
 ('hi(>fs there is more freedom and liberty of conscience 
 jillowcd, and the work, therefore, not oi)en to the objec- 
 tions that present themselves under a big autocratic 
 chief; while the interviews we held on the subject with 
 
--« ■■ •■>^*»*»«»**aeiewK.*,«»« 
 
 SPARSE POPULATION, 
 
 331 
 
 Dr. Jolinstou 
 e of ouv own 
 
 5 long tried, 
 ipy return to 
 
 comment nig- 
 the Kukema 
 3 last-named 
 f east Kan- 
 )y and Beeh- 
 t tliiekly in- 
 these plaees 
 form Avliat- 
 ;e the im2)or- 
 : first, so far 
 le healthiest 
 ■e among- the 
 3l)tain vege- 
 tly fertile to 
 Kaffir-corn ; 
 ed by petty 
 ►f conscieneo 
 to the ohjee- 
 g autocratic 
 
 the various headmen of these countries confirmed -our 
 opinion that missionaries would be well receiv«'d and 
 kindly treatiHl. 
 
 At Ongandu, Kongovia, and Kangand)a in particular 
 the populations are large and very accessible, their vil- 
 lages behig grouped in each case within a short distance 
 of their respective <)ml)alas. We cannot indorse the 
 reports so <^ften made of the densely p()i)ulat(Ml condi- 
 tion of Central Africa, l)nt (|nit(^ the contrary. Once 
 in three or four Imndred miles one strikes a mo(h'rate- 
 sized town; about every hundred miles a gronp of 
 villages; a small village. perhai>s, every other day's 
 march. This certainly was my ex}»eiience after cross- 
 ing the Kwanza until we reached ^hinicalaud, and this 
 fact gives all the more prominence to tlie places we 
 have mentioned. 
 
 I earnestly hope to see the day when a mission on a 
 sound practical basis shall be established at each of 
 them. 
 
 Gorongoza is but a short journey from the East 
 Coast; landing at Beira by eitlu-r (ierman steamers 
 from the north or by tht} Cnion Line around the Cape, 
 proceeding up the I'ungwe Kiver to Saramento, and 
 then, after three or four days' marching, (Jorongoza 
 Mountain would be reached. 
 
 Those places west of tlu^Zand^esi must be ap|iroaclie(l 
 trom the West Coast, either from Loanda, Novo Ko- 
 dondo, or Benguela. At present the latter must i)e 
 preferred, as carriers are difficult to o])tain at the first 
 two. The cost of conveying a load of sixty pounds 
 would be about thirty shillings. 
 
 )unt would it be advisable in the begin- 
 
 But 
 
 on no acc( 
 
 • '<^S^<^t^,.,^l.,iA**m*-^^i^:^ 
 
**S»Al|4ilCp; 
 
 !! 
 
 i;i 
 
 liii 
 
 '-*■ 
 
 h; • ) 
 
 51 i: 
 
 Si" 
 
 I il 
 
 i !l 
 
 R' ■■ 
 
 i 1'^ 
 
 I 
 
 
 REALITY yERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 iiiiig' to take out lailios or childroii. The work ssliould 
 be eoniiiienced by young- men, several at each station ; 
 and as the kinguage or anytliing like a vocabulary has 
 not yet been reduced to writing, it would l)e essential 
 that the young missionaries should have the ability an<l 
 educational qualifications necessary to undertake the 
 drudgery of this task. Interpret(M's might be ol)tained 
 from among the half-caste Portuguese, hence a previous 
 knowledge of the Portuguese language would be found 
 almost indispensable. 
 
 Much of the first year would be occupied in clearing 
 a plac(^ for the settlement, preparing and getting into 
 the soil seeds and plants for the kitchen-garden, mak- 
 ing furniture, and providing, as far as possible, for their 
 future comfort. On account of the expense in hiring 
 labor for this work — for we sui)i)ose, of coui'se, that 
 tlu» whit(^ men will not attempt outdoor toil them- 
 selves {ivlinh iHcaiis the shortest I'oad to a pronaturc 
 (J rave) — a plentiful supply of trade cloth, beads, knives, 
 gunpowd(>r, h^ad, etc., should be provided, sufficient to 
 meet the probaljle emergency tluit six or eight months 
 might elapse before their next caravan arrives from the 
 coast. 
 
 After two years, and when everything is in order 
 and the home made comparatively snug, it will l)e tinu> 
 enough to talk about bringing cmt wives. But even 
 then, should there be children, it were kinder to leave 
 them at home, as this is no country for them. Some 
 are of the opinion that the exiimi)le of a missionary 
 family home-life as an object-lesson to the natives 
 must stir their aimless minds to emulation. Some 
 time, perhaps, this nuiy come; but for years the con- 
 
*■■ ■■*^»5»Vl :*i:A-ijW«iWWrt»B»S*=*fc...W 
 
 mi:dic.-il missions. 
 
 
 work «lioul<l 
 euc'li station ; 
 x'ubulary has 
 1 1)0 essential 
 le ability and 
 ndei'tako the 
 t l>o olttained 
 CO a provions 
 iild bo found 
 
 (1 in oloai'ing 
 
 getting- into 
 i>arden, niak- 
 iblo, for their 
 ise in liiring 
 
 course, tliat 
 I' toil tlioni- 
 
 a prciiKdin'e 
 ["ads, knives, 
 
 sufficient to 
 iglit niontlis 
 ves from the 
 
 is in order 
 
 will be tini(> 
 
 But even 
 
 dor to U'ave 
 
 leni. Some 
 
 missionary 
 tlie natives 
 
 ion. SouK^ 
 irs tlie con- 
 
 trast will bo too great for them to see auy thing to 
 imitate. In reality, the domestic life, habits, and cus- 
 toms of the white man excite in the African only a 
 curiosity similar to that of a count )'y l)umpkin's first 
 introduction to a menagerie .Vnd to say the lenst, 
 even were some good accomi')lishe<| thereby, the expos- 
 ing of children to the base jind degi-iiding scenes that 
 must surround them <>very day among a l)arbarous and 
 savage people cannot be justified uialer any [»retenst^ 
 whatever. 
 
 One ([ualified medical man could ciisiiy look after th(> 
 liealth of the Euroiu'ans on each of the first three sta- 
 tions, as there is at most but a <'oui>le of days' joui-ney 
 between them ; but Kt>ngand)ii, being more isolato(l and 
 farther interior, would recpiire a larger staff of workers 
 and its own physician. 
 
 Too much stress cannot be laid on the importance <»f 
 medical missions in the foi-eign field as well as at home. 
 Karely a day passed durini;' my whole joui'ney that 1 
 did not prove the value of heing able to prescribe for 
 the sick; and I might say that, under (iod, 1 owe my 
 life in more than one instan(M> to the pacific effects of 
 medical aid rendered to sus[»icious and hostile natives, 
 liiglit at Catand)ella, our first stage on the West Coast, 
 I opened my "Burroughs tfc Welcome" medicine-chest 
 to physic fever-stricken cai'riers, many of whom were 
 to take my own loads. Quinine, antipyi'in, and rous- 
 ers .soon established a reputation for me as a fever-doc- 
 tor; while on the march those suffei'ing from gastro- 
 intestinal catarrh, galled shouhh'rs, and ulcers wen; 
 mustered (hiily and treated promptly and successfully. 
 All along the route 1 had numerous opportunities of 
 
 nil 
 
 
{ 
 
 i I' 1 , 
 
 hi 
 
 ,' i 
 
 ! 1 
 
 ! '' 
 
 I ' i 
 
 ' \ 
 
 ' 
 
 I ^ 1 
 
 
 
 'i 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 i . 
 
 i. 
 
 1 
 
 ' 
 
 , 
 
 n 
 
 ill 
 
 ll 
 
 3:u 
 
 Rli.ll.riY ytiKSUS ROM.-INCJ: 
 
 alloviutiii,n' tlic suttVriiijjjs of not only many hundivdfs of 
 natives, but several missionaries, hunters, and traders, 
 and, in Masliomdand and Maniea, miners and Portu- 
 guese otlicials. 
 
 It is with the greatest shtisfaetion tliat I look l)i!'k 
 over my personal exi»'rieii<'es throughout the long jour- 
 ney, to tlie Iteneiits accruing to sufferers from my pro- 
 fession as a medical man. Not the least of these was 
 my timely arrival ai JMangwato and sojourn there dur- 
 ing the month of Ajtril, 1S92, Avhen the devastating 
 fever e])idemic "was at its Iieight. The many expres- 
 sions of gi'atitnde from hoth blacks and Avhites in Kha- 
 ma's country and elsewhere convince mi* that in this, if 
 for nothing els(>, my journey Avas not in vain. The 
 moiK'tary expense of the expedition, the hardships and 
 trials endured, pale to insignificance when <'ompared 
 with what we were permitted to see accomplished 
 among those who were otherwise hundreds of miles 
 fi'om medical assistance. And the fact that through 
 th(! whole of our traveling not a single death occurred 
 among my men must he attributed to the well-stocked 
 and at all times available medicini^-chest. 
 
 The qui^stion has l)ee'.i put tome repeate<lly by medi- 
 cal students, AVould you recommend Central Africa as 
 a field for men holding Tniversity degrees in medicin«i 
 who wish to devote themselves to mission work? Is 
 there a sphere fov such there ? I can only say that the 
 answer depends veiy nuich upon circumstances. If 
 there is a party of white missionaries going out, a fully 
 qualified physician should certainly accompany them. 
 Nothing can justify the appointing of white men and 
 their families to posts in the far interior without plac- 
 
 K.--^ 
 
KvmMfietmsiii, 
 
 K.I mi: DOi.lORS. 
 
 •>M- 
 
 y bundivds of 
 !, and traders, 
 's and Port li- 
 lt I look liick 
 tlic loiij:!; joiir- 
 tVoiii my pro- 
 ' of tlioso Avas 
 irn tlicrc diir- 
 dcvastatiiii;' 
 many cxprcs- 
 liitcs ill Klia- 
 liat in tliis, if 
 u vain. Tlic 
 lardsliips and 
 en compared 
 acc'omidishcd 
 vds of miles 
 that throii<>'h 
 nitli occiirrod 
 well-stockod 
 
 'dly by mtMli- 
 ral Africa as 
 i ill medicine 
 n work? Is 
 say that tho 
 1 stances. If 
 ;• out, n fully 
 npany them, 
 ito men and 
 'itliout plac- 
 
 ing a doctor within easy access of their sialic. n, <iii<l in 
 thin pattinilay lies flu rli'irf urcrssilif for till' iiiKili/inl 
 mv<rt((il iiKin. 
 
 He will of course lind ahuiKJant oi»portunity for 
 practice anioiiu' tlie luitives; hut fi-om :dl I lia\e seen 
 of the <i;eneral class of diseases pi-esideiit in Africji and 
 ]n'OU«;'iit under the notice of the iiiedicid missionai'y, it 
 certainly seems an extravaj^aiit waste of iil>ility, ;is he 
 will tind that a very snudl pei-centiiu'e of the knowledge 
 aii'l skill acquired diirinu' years of study is ever required 
 or l)r()U<;'ht into exercise, it is a i-ecoHni/ed fact that 
 tiie Central Afi'ican will rai'ely sul»mit to have even a 
 tooth extracted, far less consent to a surgical oj»erati()n, 
 even if death <*ould he averte(l therehy. as .iinputation 
 contiicts with the anticipation of his disemhodieil s)tirit 
 retiirniu,i;' in a form sup<'i'ior to his present existence. 
 In the matter of accouchement it is conti'ary to native 
 law that a man, physician or othei'wlse, should lie }»ei'- 
 mitted to ho present, far less to aid women in child- 
 birth. A doctor who has ])een for the last seven years 
 resident in the country informe(l nie that onl\' once in 
 his whole expcn'ience had lie Ix-eii pi'eseiit in sucli a, 
 i'ase, so that his kiiowled,i;v of midwifei-y, so fai- as the 
 native is concerned, is (juite dispensable. And then' is 
 no room for ()rthop(>dic or ]ilastic sur<::*'rv, foi- all de- 
 formed infants are destroyed at l)irth, as beiiin' under 
 the ban aiul displeasure of the nods. 
 
 Ajj;ain and a<;'aiu I have watched th<' daily I'outine at 
 the dispensary of medical mission stations, an<l the work 
 of tli(> physician consisted cliietly ii> dressiiii;' ulcers, 
 prepariui;- lotions f(;r ophthalmia, atlministeriiiii' emetics 
 as an antidote to the effects of " nmavi,"sti'ai»pinj,^ up a 
 
 ^- 
 
• !; 
 
 ,. i 
 
 ' P 
 
 H r 
 
 ! ; 
 
 33G 
 
 RE/tUlY yERSUS ROMANCH. 
 
 spoar wound, pivscribiii^ for iiidigc'stioii iiioidoiital to 
 tlieir course fare, or a simple cougii uiixturo for tlio 
 bronchitis to wliicli they are liable duriiij;' the cold sea- 
 son ; but seldom did Ave s<'e a <'ase so complicated that 
 a missionary with a verv ordinarv knowledm* of the 
 pi'opcrties of druj^s in common use could not Inive 
 treated succossfidly. 
 
 Although Ave are inclined to sneer at the native doc- 
 tors, it must be owned that, with all tlieir <*abalistic 
 practices and the superstitions and orgies that jtervad*^ 
 their exorcising of disease, some of them effect cures 
 by means of herbs to us unknown, and the secret of 
 
 wliic'' we might weU covet. Dr. E of Bandawe 
 
 tells me that more than once for weeks he has con- 
 tinued to treat ulcers with every liieans and ai>pliance 
 known to our profession, without avail; owning him- 
 self Itatiied, the patient resorted to a native doctor, and 
 
 returned in a short time, to Dr. E 's astonishment, 
 
 with the wound completely healed. 
 
 A cas(^ in point may be cited that occurn'd, April, 
 1892, in Bechuanaland, in the presence of a nund)er of 
 Europeans. A Boer while trekking northward with 
 his v'amily Avas delayed for some weeks in camp from 
 the greatCi- nund)or of his cattle having died of lung 
 sickness. His wife Avas in a lo*. state of her.ltli, sui'*'"r- 
 ing from numerous boils and festering sores. While 
 (h'<'ssiiig them one day, she failed to keep off the honh's 
 of flies that had gathered round the putrid meat in the 
 vicinity; ])lood-poisoning and pyemia quickly super- 
 vened, and death seemed imminrnt. An English sur- 
 geon Avho chanced to be on th(} road aa'jis summoned, 
 but after careful examination he proiiounc(Ml tlu^ case 
 hopeless, AA'hen one of the Boer's natiA^e driA'ers ])egged 
 
 
 
iJ!iflilmtmtmr.>^» 
 
 HXTR/iy^G/INT H^'ASTli 01- Alill.lTY. 
 
 SSI 
 
 icidontal to 
 ive foi' tlm 
 lie cold S('!i- 
 licatcd tluit 
 '(]<;•«> of tlio 
 [ not liavc 
 
 0(1 of lung 
 
 pprmission to call a buslniian doctor. Toiiscnt was 
 given, and in a short time the Imshnian appeared, lie 
 sat silently watching the [taticnl for a Utile time, iind 
 then went off at a ti'ot over tiie vt'ldt foi-sonic distance, 
 gathered a vai'icty of lici-hs, .-ind on rctnrniiig put a, 
 largo pot with wjitcr on the lirt>, into which he threw 
 his collection of medicines. When the infusion was 
 ready he urged the patient t(» driid<, which she did, 
 bowl after howl; while with the sjinie decoction he 
 batlHMl the sores, and within twenty-four hours a.i 
 danger was over, and the woman ultimately made u 
 good recovei'y. 
 
 It is witli no thought of vaunting the (pialities of tho 
 native doctor that we give such an exami>le, hut that it 
 may he understood that the native Afi'icnn is not totiilly 
 Avithout medical aid of a kind, ev<'n in the ahseiice of 
 "white men. 
 
 In the face of these facts we are forced to the conclu- 
 sion that the appointment of ([ualilied medical men to 
 mission centers chietly for the henefit of the native 
 population is sui)ei'tluous, and that the woi'k assigned 
 to them might be qnite satisfactorily accom[»lislie(l hy 
 mere tyros in the art of healing. 
 
 Mr. (*urrie of ('isand»a has not Iteen al)le to take a 
 full <;ourse in medicine, l)ut, having a great intei'est in 
 the study of natives diseases and their ti'ealment, had, 
 during the time of my visit there, a lai'gei- niimher of 
 patients coming daily to his dispensary than 1 have 
 seen a 
 sionarv Avas an 
 
 at any station in Africa — even where the mis- 
 
 ]\ruch the s:ime ma.y be said of >r()nsi(MP' Toillard, 
 and I am fairly convinced tliat the cxi>ci 
 
 iscs ('I mcMical 
 
 ers l)egged 
 
 m 
 
 is- >ns in ("eiitrnl Africa mav be verv mudi les-;"neil. 
 
 I v^it'i^wfm^AMsmmif^m 
 
I. r 
 
 ...n 
 
 f J ' 
 ♦I , 
 
 Hi. 
 
 y 
 
 V ! -^ 
 
 ll? ^itii 
 
 id 
 
 I'- 
 
 ll 
 
 ;; 1 
 
 ■1. r 
 
 i ! 
 
 
 3;w 
 
 RH/tUlY yHHSUS ROM, -INCH. 
 
 witliout tlM'ir valuo boiii^ imitcrially (liiniuisluMl, wero 
 u .short coui'so In tlio pi'actiiM' of inodicino iii(!lii(l<Ml in 
 tlic (HiiTiculuni of oui' inifssionjiiy collc^rs — the studies 
 to b(3 (lin'(^t«Ml hy iiii «'X-Africjni Tncilicui missionary 
 thorou«jjlily conversant with tii«^ jM-cvalcnt aihnents en- 
 demic to the regions for wliicli tlie various students aro 
 destined. Y«>t this su^j^estion retracts in no way fi'om 
 my first statement, that wlierever EurojM'ans are sta- 
 tioned tlj«' presence of the l»est and most skillful jdiysi- 
 <'ian ol)tainal)le is absolutely essential; for where the 
 lives of valued workers are at stake the thoujjjht of ex- 
 l»ense should not be considered. 
 
 ]\ry weary joui'iiey across Africa is ended. I lonfjj 
 with intens<^ yearnini>: to j>;et back to that snu<;' little 
 island, th(> j^-em of the Oaribl)ean Sea — Jamaica, wherein 
 1 am i)roud to have a home; for in all my travels I 
 liave seen no spot so lovely, or that can half compare 
 Avith the "Jsle of Springs." Yet I thank (Jod that I 
 have been permitted to travel tlirou,i;'h the gi'i'at conti- 
 nent, notwithstandin<;- the many trials, hanlships, and 
 <lanj;(M's \ have had to face, without losing' a single na- 
 tive follower by death, and without firin<i; an an<;ry shot. 
 
 And now that it is ovei', I humbly and .n'ratefully ac- 
 knowledge the protectinji; care of Him whom I trust, 
 and Avho has never failed me even in th<^ darkest hour. 
 And if the knowled<»'e acquired of countries thi'ouf^h 
 which I have passed, or of peoph^ and tribes I have met, 
 can be of service to those wdio are seeking to spread the 
 lii;-ht and truth of the j::ospel, or advance the cause of 
 <'ivilization ni this dark and benighted land, I shall re- 
 joice in all I have endured for its sake. 
 
 .i 
 
*• »*w5n. .■>'. . !^ifimmmMm»*» 
 
 islicd, woro 
 iiiclii(l<Ml ill 
 -tlic studies 
 inissiouaiy 
 ihnciits «'n- 
 iliuh'iits Jiro 
 () way t'roin 
 lis ar<' sta- 
 illfiil pliysi- 
 
 • \vll«'l'«' tlio 
 >iiji;lit of ox- 
 
 0(1. I loiip: 
 
 smi<;' littlci 
 
 ica, wlid'eiii 
 
 ly travels I 
 
 ilf (•oiiii)ai'o 
 
 (}()<l that 1 
 
 ;i'eat coiiti- 
 
 (lslii|»s, and 
 
 I siuule iia- 
 
 aii^ry sliot. 
 
 atet'ully ac- 
 
 )ni I trust, 
 
 irkest hour. 
 
 cs tlii'on^li 
 
 I luivo mot, 
 
 sproad the 
 
 ho oauso of 
 
 , I sliall ro- 
 
 ArPKXDlX. 
 
 E(|uipniont.— Touts ri)-sii.-< liuts.— Clotliiin;.— Fiponrms.— Hiu'Iit ^.loils.— 
 (-'oiiiiiiiHsarial.— Mciliciti.'.— Tnl)l((iils. — Fever.— Iiisc.niiiiii,— Water. — 
 (Joolt'i's. — Liglit. — rii()lo>{raiiliy, 
 
 THE iiitondiii*,' travolor must Ito ^aiidod in tho selec- 
 tion of liis oiitlit and e(|uipiiieii1 liy a kn(»\vIed^•(^ 
 of th(» nature and eliaraeter of the i-cuious throiii-h 
 wliieh ho proposes to Journey, as it makes a niiiteri.d 
 diftoreno(^ wlietlior his route lies tiiroimii disfi-iets whei-e 
 ocoasional su]>plies may lie olttained, or pcnetratrs th»^ 
 interior beyond tho boundary of supply stores. 
 
 Ajijain, tho faoilities for eoiiveyaiiee of i^oods must bo 
 oonsidorod, as, if wa<;ons can he used, i»ro\ision for Uui 
 journoy may only bo limited by th<' ti-aveler's means; 
 while if carriers must be procured, the less he can (h) 
 with, tho better. To tho latter class T wotdd offer a few 
 su<2:,iii;;ostions from my own exporionoo, luivinj.:; special 
 refer(Mice to Central Africa. 
 
 Equipment. — Porsoiuil outfit should indmlo: tent, 
 made of Willosdon canvas, about seven feet by oiuiit, 
 with doid)le roof, and tai'iiaulin uround-shoot for the 
 floor; small fohlinn-table and chaii'; iron fratiie fold- 
 in^'-cot woi<;'hitig' twenty pounds; a thin coi-k nuittress; 
 two or throe blankets, larii'o and ol' f/ood (piality, with a 
 
 rug or plaid, and a small horse-hair pillow. Don't for- 
 
 :!:i!i 
 
 
/ ilU 
 
 , ' '' 
 
 M'^ 
 
 p*f 
 
 i- 
 
 a4o 
 
 KMUIY yi-.KSL'ti liOMANUi. 
 
 p't u pit'cM' of ^ood inoHquito-iK'ttinjj:, nnd y/rvv/' ihihh 
 tho iii;;lit, wliftluT in n tent or in the ojM'n, without its 
 j)rot<'(*tioii, I'oi' it is uiKlouWlcdly n ^rrut i>r<'s»'i'viition 
 to health, the meshes shuttiiiji;' out the niiiisiim, which 
 is iilwuys woi'st nt iii^iit. 'J'here iire many ways ol" ri;;- 
 ;j^in^' ui> the netting', hut the simplest of all is to take a 
 J>ieee of stl'ollj;' calico, say l)lu<' " pentado," seven feet 
 loujjj an<l three feet wide; around the ed^'es of this 
 sow u length of netting' five feet wide; to eacli cornel" 
 stitch u piece of stroiiij: tape, and the arran^'ement iH 
 complete'. After the ^Tound-slieet, mattress, and ltlan]\- 
 ets are sjtread for the ni^lit, uet four of your carriers' 
 spears, and sticiv one into the ground at each coi'ner, 
 from wliich, l)y means of tlie tapes, susjiend the net at 
 n conv«'nient hei,i;lit. After ,iz:ettin^': into Ited, tuck the 
 edn(. of tli(! nettiiii;' in unth'i' the niattrc^ss all around. 
 Jiut whatever shape you may adopt for your mos(|uito 
 netting', remendx'r tluit it is positively indispensalile. 
 
 .\ rubber gi'ound-sheet is essential in case you re- 
 quire to sleep in the o[»en ; but this is the oidy ai'ticlo 
 of rubl>er j^oods one need take, as uir-pillows and such- 
 like i;ive way in a few months. 
 
 Tents. — Tents are very useful in wet W(»atliei', but 
 tliey <;et intoh'raltly hot durinjj: the day, unless they 
 can b(i ojx'ued at both ends to i»ermit a free current of 
 air to pass throni;h ; and this has the di'awback that 
 the contents are exposed too much to the i)ryin,i'' eyes 
 of the natives, and so exciting- their cui>idity. West of 
 the Zand)esi they may without serious inconvenience 
 be dispensed with altf)g'ether, as the carrii'rs j)rei)are 
 quite commodious round huts in an hour or two of 
 sticks and grass,^ cool on the hottest day and "warm at 
 
 \ 
 
♦" ****»^' -V . .i*iiiti««fc*«i«rt« 
 
 I nrrrr piiHH 
 willioiil its 
 •I't'scrvntioii 
 isiMii, wliicli 
 wjiys ot* ri^- 
 is to tnkt' !i 
 " seven I'cct 
 l«i'('s of til is 
 cjH'li corner 
 iii^'cinciit is 
 , jind Idank- 
 :)in- can-iers' 
 'acli coi'ncr, 
 <l tlic not at 
 mI, tuck tlic 
 all around. 
 :ii' iuos(|uito 
 ■^licnsahk*. 
 •use you re- 
 only article 
 la and sucli- 
 
 yoatliei", ])nt 
 uidess they 
 e current of 
 i\vl»ack that 
 pryin*;' eyes 
 y. AVest of 
 couveuienco 
 iers prejjare 
 r or two of 
 ind warm at 
 
 A7/(.7//.,V I II \sn.s. 
 
 M 1 t 
 
 ni^lit, while if the theriMonieirr ^^oes down very k)W, u 
 lire can he Imih in tht nter. This cannot with com- 
 fort he done in a t.nt, as there is no outlet for the 
 .smoke, and in any case would destroy the canvas. 
 
 KiTcm:N' rTi'.NsiLs.— .V hlock-tin canteen, such as is 
 
 sui)i>lied hy Lan«;'don of London, contains all the n< s- 
 
 Kary uti'iisils for the camjt kitchen, and may he had in 
 various sizes, to suit one or half a do/en pei-sons. 1 
 would udvisc! that the kit he examined hefore purchas- 
 in<;', to see that lids, handles, etc., are thorou;;'hly riv- 
 eted, as, from the carelessness of natives and the open 
 camp-tire, sokU'r holds hut a very shoi't time. See also 
 that the lid of the pot he made of sheet-ii'oii and n<tt (»f 
 tin, so that it will serve the itui'[)ose of a Dutch oven. 
 
 ('LOTIIIN'd. — Two oi- three suits of *;()o,l t Weed miuli! 
 conu> in handy when a[»pi'oacliin,u- or visiting civili/fd 
 centers; hut for the veldt, g'ood ]i<;iit-colored "eiejdiant 
 cord" will he found much more durahle and satisfac- 
 tory. It is most suitahle for marchin»^ in the fori. >f 
 knickerhockers, and one jufket of this material will last 
 a your, as it is only worn in the cool of the morning 
 and after ^'ettin^^ into camp; and it must he veiy rou^'h 
 nsa<^e that would re(piire more than two oi- tlir<'e )»airs 
 of breeches. AVitli these, thick, heavy worsted stock- 
 inet's must be worn; hut wlaui traveling- thi'ou,i;h lon^ 
 grass they need to he protected hy leg,i;in,i;s, say of 
 canvas, as, if the <;rass is dry, it sheds small seeds and 
 soinotimes shai'p needle-like bui-rs, that are retained ])y 
 the rough, woolly surface, penetrating to the skin and 
 
 causing great irritation. 
 
 TIh^ worsted stockinj-s ai'e 
 
 ■; i 
 
 at the same time a sure defense against ants of every 
 <l(>sc)'iption, as, no matter how (icrce, their mandil)les 
 
 
 
Ml ;■ 
 
 ilfiH 
 
 1' I 
 
 \ if 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 ; 
 
 ii 1 
 
 
 
 l\ 
 
 iqw.' 
 
 ! 
 
 ■! 
 
 r r! ■ 
 
 
 ! 
 
 I' »iS 
 
 342 
 
 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 get entangled in the meshes of the knittUig, and thus 
 are rendered harndess. 
 
 Footwear should be of two kinds. Light tennis- 
 shoes of canvas, but not rubl)er-soIed, are best suited 
 for marching over sandy plains, l)ut soon weary the 
 feet if the path becomes rough or stony, liere we must 
 have thick-soled leather l)oots, a size larger than usual. 
 I do not mean by this "top-boots," such as are some- 
 times worn by sporting-men at home; they are found 
 mu(;li too hot and heavy ; but the shoe jxtr circllcHcc 
 hi dry weather is the native-made " rehlt sclioo)/.''^ For 
 more than half niy journey I used them in preference 
 to every other, finding them noiseless in hunting and 
 very easy to the feet. They are generally niade with 
 soles of buffalo hide and tops of "koodoo" or other 
 antelc2H\ 
 
 Underclothing should be chiefly of wool, so as to avert 
 the evil effects arising from chill; and loose-fitting, to 
 allow for shrinkage, as new travelers are not generally 
 experts in the art of wasliing. The shirts should l)e 
 made of a light, soft tweed, with a breast-pocket on 
 each side; if some of them are onlv half-sleeved it 
 would be no harm, as one generally prefers during the 
 day to luwe the arms bare from the elbow at least. 
 
 Headgear is purely a matter of choice. Some vote 
 for the helmet of pith, cork, straw, or felt ; others, like 
 myself, prefer an ordinary l)road-brinnned light-colored 
 Terai or wide-awake. The helmet I find a nuisance. 
 It gets knocked off in the jungle by the overhanging 
 branches of the trees ; it is always in the way; if you 
 wish to rest at noon you must either sit up so as not 
 
 y 
 
 111 i 
 
 \ t 
 
'****'*^**-'^K?K?rS-*i.- ,■*•:' 
 
 ^■^'>^^mms^ m,.im 8i mm ^m. 
 
 ;■, and thus 
 
 ^lit tennis- 
 best suited 
 weary tli<' 
 re we must 
 than usual, 
 are sonie- 
 ' are found 
 >• excel I (') tec 
 )oo)i.^'' For 
 preference 
 inting and 
 made Avitli 
 " or other 
 
 as to avert 
 2-fitting', to 
 t generally 
 
 should be 
 -pocket on 
 -sleeved it 
 duriiio- the 
 
 least. 
 
 Some vote 
 others, like 
 >"ht-color(Ml 
 i nuisance, 
 'erhaiiging 
 ay; if you 
 so as not 
 
 BARTER GOODS. 
 
 343 
 
 to crush it, or lie down without its protection, while 
 the soft felt is obviously more accommodating. 
 
 FiiiEAKMS. — In reference to weapons, if firearms are 
 carried for the sole pm'pose of })rocuriiig meat, a twelve- 
 bore shot-gun choked in one l)arr<'l and a Jul "Ex- 
 press" rifle D. B. will l»e found sufficient for ordinary 
 game. But if danger from hostile natives is antici- 
 pated, in addition to these a few Winchestei' rept^aters, 
 4r).9() caliber, will be found invaluable. If n revolver 
 is carried at all, it slumld l)e a big one, for tlie sake o^' 
 the moral eifect its appearance pi'oduces on the natives 
 — a regulation Webh^y, and well plated, as this sav»>s 
 a lot of trouble in looking after rust-spots. As to car- 
 tridges, it will be seen, after my experience relate(l .)n 
 page 91, that it is of first importance that the intending 
 traveler should get his goods from a trustworthy agent, 
 or direct from the manufacturer, and then to [M-rson- 
 ally inspect his annnunition, to make sure he is not 
 taking old stock. 
 
 Bai{TE1{ Goods. — Xo sju'cilic advic(> can ])e gi\-en in 
 reference to trade goods, as every separate district has 
 its own i)eculiar fashion in beads, color or (piality of 
 cloth, size of brass, copi)er, or iron wire; and informa- 
 tion on tiiis head ciui best lie ol)taine<j IVoni mei'cantile 
 liouses who supply the tradei's nearest to the point of 
 entrance. But let it be undci'stood that the goods 
 above named are standard curi'cncy in some form or 
 other in every part of the country; but this cannot be 
 said of other articles often included among barter goods, 
 such as clothes, hats, old military nniforms, fancy 
 things, etc.; these will be received, but only as pi'cs- 
 
 •^;«ii^N»!Kilgjl 
 
344 
 
 RHALITY VERSUS ROM/1NCF.. 
 
 m\ 
 
 U: 
 
 I: 
 
 :! H 
 
 eiits. Soinetiines by Imrd experience one finds out liow 
 neeessary it is to be sure what the market denuinds ])e- 
 t'ore purchasiiijj:, so as not to be hulen with unsalable 
 stuffs. A quantity of beads (fifty pounds' weight) was 
 sold to me by one in the country as the very thing re- 
 (piired for bartei in the distnnt districts of the interior; 
 l)ut after carrying them for three months, 1 had to de- 
 liberately throw most of them away in utter disgust, 
 and feeling very sore at l)eing swindled, for no native 
 would accept them; nnd l)ut for having procured a fair 
 supply of the right kind from an honest man who had 
 no wish to palm off his bad stock on an unsuspecting 
 strang(»r, I should have been in a bad fix. 
 
 Trade cloth is generally doiK^ up by the wholesale 
 houses in water-tight l)ales of from fifty to sixty pounds 
 each, suitable in size, shape, and weight for a man's 
 l(^ad. For personal baggage and sundries, tin cases are 
 most suitable; wooden boxes, leather portmanteaus, 
 etc., are quickly destroyed by the white ants. The 
 most convenient size for tin cases is 2t)Xl.jxO inches; 
 and I certainly would not be inclined again to spend 
 fortv to fiftv shillings each on what are called water- 
 tight tin boxes. Six of mine were of this des<'ription, 
 made bv one of the best manufacturers in London. 
 I never doubted their ability to keep their contents dry 
 under all circumstances until two of theni were thrown 
 into the Zambesi by the capsizing of a canoe. On 
 being recovered they felt very much heavier than 
 before, and yet there was no watei" dripping from 
 them ; the fact was, they were water-tight on the 
 wrong side. The water got in easy enough, soaking 
 the leather buffing round the rim, which swelled and 
 
^''**SP!IP!tT-**fe»-^i«iy--,; 
 
 >fii*^wmm-¥'''J^dassstiiil^tm 
 
 PRorisioxs. 
 
 :54r) 
 
 s out how 
 luiiids ))e- 
 niisalaltle 
 'ig'lit) was 
 thing re- 
 * intorior ; 
 had to <le- 
 r disgust, 
 no native 
 u*ed a fair 
 [1 who had 
 suspecting 
 
 wholesale 
 :ty pounds 
 V a man's 
 \ eases are 
 nianteaus, 
 Hits. The 
 < 'J inches ; 
 1 to spend 
 led water- 
 eseription, 
 1 London, 
 ntents dry 
 >re thrown 
 moe. On 
 ivier than 
 )ing from 
 it on the 
 h, soaking 
 veiled and 
 
 
 <?ffectually imprisoned it. They were full of watt>r, and 
 many of my most vahiahle articles, put there for spe- 
 <'ial safety, were completely destroyed. 
 
 PiiovisioNS. — Lay in a good stock of flour, rolled 
 Avheat, oatmeal, rici^, l)arley, and i>lain hiseuits; eotfee, 
 tea, cocoa; dried fruit; desiccated potatoes, compressed 
 V(>geta1)les; salt; canned goods — corned beef, sardines, 
 etc. Sugar is bulky and heavy, but will never be 
 missed if to the above stock is added a few })ack- 
 ages of saccharine tablets. Condiments, etc., will of 
 <'Ourse be included according to discretion. These foods 
 named are the substantial stand-byes. 
 
 But a few medical comforts an<l luxuries must not 
 be forgotten, in case of sickness, such as extract of 
 l)eef, arrow-root, condensed milk, preserves; and a bot- 
 tle or two of Cognac must not be omitted, as there are 
 times of extreme prostration in attacks of dysentery, 
 or as the result of fever, when a tables[)Oonful of this 
 sthnulant may turn the tide in the i»atient's favor. 
 But alcohol in any form, except for medicinal piirjtoses, 
 particuhirly if taken dui'ing the day, is the shortest 
 way to fevers, and ]'en<lers the traveler U'ss able to 
 resist them when they come. 
 
 Medicines. — These are next in importanc<' to food, 
 and should be carefully selected, and not all put up in 
 one medicine-chest. Several small boxes, each contain- 
 ing a few special drugs, should be packed away in dif- 
 ferent cases, so that in the event of one or two loads 
 getting lost, stolen, or str;)ye(l there will be less danger 
 of being h'ft without a remedy when attacked by ill- 
 ness, as has been the unhappy exi»erience of some. 
 
 Tabloids. — T wouhl stronglv recommend that the 
 
 ^j& .c-VW k'&W«i<^***!ie49-|« 
 
 

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 REALITY VERSUS ROMANCE. 
 
 dnijj:s be in the form" of tabloids, as prepared by Bur- 
 roughs & Welcome. As I have stated elsewhere, the 
 Ediuburg'h ]\[edioal ^Missionary Society presented me, 
 on leaving Scotland, "vvith a Stanley medicine-chest, con- 
 taining a bountiful supply ; and although it was under 
 water twice and traveled thousand of miles in all kinds 
 of Avcathei', temperature, and atmosphere, for eighteen 
 months, alt<'rnately carried by natives, conveyed in 
 (•anoes, or bumped in bullock-wagons • ^ the end of the 
 journey the drugs that remained were in as good con- 
 <lition as when I started out. 
 
 The following will be found among the most valuable 
 for Central Africa : Livingstone's rousers ; comp. ca- 
 thartic; quinine; arsenic (-n, of a grain each); anti- 
 l)yrin ; i^henacetin ; calomel and podophyllin ; lead and 
 opium ; aloin, strychnine, and belladonnie ; sulphonal. 
 
 ^[essrs. Burroughs & "Welcome supply a small book 
 with each medicine-chest, containing plain and concise 
 directions as to the properties, uses, and doses of the 
 various medicines. 
 
 Fevee. — The principal disease, and from which none 
 who penetrate the interior escape, is fever in some 
 form or other, generally bilious intermittent, y(^t all too 
 freipiently, particularly near the coast, the malignant 
 and dangerous remittent hematuric, or black-water 
 fever. 
 
 ()l)inions differ as to the treatment of the various 
 fevers, but most are agreed that quinine is our " sheet 
 anchor"; but T have much more faith in its (>ffects as 
 a prophylactic than in its antipyretic property, not 
 only from personal experience, but also fi'om the evi- 
 dence of many I have met and on whoso testimony I 
 
f.^y'-*-'**&«m'i<^mmmii^>^^m">t'-^- ^>f^rmfmm^,iim^m*m 
 
 ed by Bur- 
 i where, the 
 sented me, 
 -chest, con- 
 was niider 
 in all kinds 
 ov eij»-]iteen 
 jnveyed in 
 i end of the 
 3 good eon- 
 
 3st valuable 
 I conip. ca- 
 ?ach) ; anti- 
 11 ; lead and 
 
 sulphonal. 
 
 small book 
 and concise 
 
 OSes of the 
 
 which none 
 er in some 
 , yet all too 
 ' malignant 
 black-^vatel• 
 
 the various 
 1 our " sheet 
 ts (effects as 
 operty, not 
 om the evi- 
 testiniony I 
 
 HH.II.TH HINTS. 
 
 347 
 
 can rely. Five-grain doses of quinine daily while ap- 
 jn'oaching or passing through districts known to bo 
 malarious niitiguted the severity of an attack, and often 
 warded it off altogether, while others in the same cara- 
 van Avho neglected this precaution were completely 
 prostrated every week or two; but they also, on adopt- 
 ing the hal)it of a dose cvcn-y morriing, experienced 
 almost complete immunity for mouths together. 
 
 Apart from the ever-exhaiing malaria in swampy 
 regions, long delays in camp, with their attendant woi'- 
 ries, etc., sitting in damp clothes, whether from per- 
 spiration or rain, and omitting to change them on 
 getting into camp, until one is chilled, are the most 
 prolific causes of fever. 
 
 A practical and handy little brochure on "Tb'alth 
 Hints for Central Africa," by Horace Waller (than 
 whom there are few men better (pialified to give coun- 
 sel on this subject), is published by John ^Murray, 
 London. Tt is convenient for the pock<'t, and contains 
 valuable advice and hd'ormation that should be in the 
 j)OSsession of every one who Avoidd travel in malarious 
 countries. 
 
 The premonitory symptoms of an ai>proaching attack 
 
 'ssion, iri'itabilitv of 
 
 'pr. 
 
 'P 
 
 17 
 
 in some, excitement and talkativeness; the renal secre- 
 tion becomes frequent and almost colorless, indicating 
 the necessity for something like " Livingstone's rousers 
 to stir up the liver, a timely dose of two or three some- 
 times averting an attack. 
 
 But when once the nausea and vomiting sets in, 
 further resistance is useh'ss; one must siin})ly lie down 
 to it, when all the blankets and rugs within reach will 
 
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 RF.Al.lTY VERSUS ROMANCF.. 
 
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 1)6 requisitioned to jjjive soiiio wuriuth to tlie cold jind 
 shivering frame, vvliile tlie acute frontal lieadaelic, pain 
 in the back, and <<eneral feeling of " haven't-got-a-friend- 
 in-tlie-world" completes tli<; misery of one's condition 
 at this stage. A few hours of this, and th(! cliilliness 
 gives place to heat, the skin hecoming dry and burning, 
 and the tongue parcluMl; then hapi)y and fortunate is 
 the patient who can get his hands on a bottle of soda- 
 water. 
 
 If this stage is jirolonged, it may sometimes be cut 
 short by a drink of hot gruel or tea with a draclnu of 
 spts. a'th. nit., when the attack enters on the third part 
 of the program of its course^, by profuse pei'spiration, 
 giving almost instant i'eli(vf. The temperature runs, 
 down rapidly. Now for a big dose of (piininc^ 
 
 It is of little use taking quinine during a paroxysm, as 
 ten to on«; it will be rejected by the stomach ; and small 
 doses in repeated exacerbations of high temperature is 
 equally futile. Thirty grahis have often to be admin- 
 istei'ed, taking advantage of a remission when the tem- 
 perature is at its lowest, before beneficial results are 
 obtained. 
 
 To relieve the persistent headaches, antipyrin in five- 
 grain doses will be found very helpful; but better still, 
 and safer, I would mention phenacetin. One (or at 
 most two) five-grain tabloid acts like a charm, sooth- 
 ing and quieting the nerves, and i)roducing a feeling of 
 restfulness that is delightful. In the sleei)h'ss niglits ac- 
 companying fever I have found sulphonal give great re- 
 lief, but would caution against its reckless use. Messrs. 
 Burroughs & Welcome give the maximum dose id forty 
 grains, but this I found too high. I would limit to half 
 
-'^^*»msi»s^mmmm-*immm 
 
 lie cold and 
 (laelir, pain 
 :<)t-a-rri('ii(l- 
 s ('oiulitioii 
 i(( cliilliiM'ss 
 11(1 Imi'iiiiig, 
 fortunate is 
 tie of soda- 
 
 iiues l)e out 
 I draclini of 
 e third part 
 lorspiration, 
 I'atiire runs, 
 inin<\ 
 
 uroxysni, as 
 ; and small 
 iporature is 
 
 be admin- 
 en the tem- 
 
 results are 
 
 y^rin in five- 
 better still, 
 One (or at 
 arm, sootli- 
 a i'eelinj;" of 
 s iiij>lits ae- 
 ve great re- 
 (\ !^[essrs. 
 ose at foi'ty 
 imit to half 
 
 WAir.R. 
 
 WW) 
 
 the ([uantity, or even less, as giving ('(pial benefit with- 
 out the unpleasant effects of forty grains, Avhich pro- 
 duces a nervous condition, with vertigo and a swaying, 
 staggering gait when attempting to walk. 
 
 For fever recuri'ing ev(>rv <lay and continning foi- 
 weeks, quinine has l)Ut little antidotal powei-; but it 
 will generally yield to one tabloid of ai'senie (,-,'„ of a 
 grain) every four hours. Strychnine may l»e advan- 
 tageously ad(h'd to this, and can be ol)tain(Ml in the 
 cond)ined form. 
 
 Watei!, generally so inipun', is i-esponsible for much 
 of the fever and dysentery inci<lental to travelini;- in 
 Africa. It should be the and)ition of every one to train 
 himself to accomplish the day's march withont drink- 
 ing, for it becomes very nuieh of a hal)it, dipping fi"om 
 every i>ool oi- stream that one comes across, and only 
 increases the craving for moi-e. By a little exercise of 
 self-denial, one will in a few weeks find he can cross 
 stream after stream without any desire to <li-iid\, and 
 on getting into camj) a ciq* of tea oi- cocoa will refi-esh 
 him, and thus avoid the risk of drinking uid)oile(l water. 
 
 Coolers. — If tlicre should l)e no certainty of wat<'r 
 being ol)tainal)le at the noonday rest, a supply had 
 better be c.'irried. I^ut in what:' is the (piestiou. All 
 sorts of water-bottles and canteens have been invented. 
 Many give tlu' pi'efei'enc<' to the enaiiiele(l-ware (lask 
 eovercMl with felt, the lattei" to he kept moist so as to 
 keep th(.' contents cool; but if thei'e is water to b»> 
 found wherewith to keej* continiially wetting the felt 
 (for it (b'ies in a vei-y tew minutes), vvhy cai'i'V any? 
 "While, if there is no water for the felt, a drink fi'om 
 the flask is far fi'oni i-efi'eshing. 
 
 flHffiliffiF^rffTr-yf 
 
 
 
 '«i.^ 
 
 '^^t<iliri&^£ti' . 
 
350 
 
 Rf-.turr yf-Rswi rom.'Inci-.. 
 
 \' I 
 
 I .: 1 
 
 |!i 
 
 L ft 
 
 
 11 
 
 To those who can approciate a drau<>:]»t of real cold 
 water, even when the sun is hottest, 1 wouM say: 
 Construct h\n\\ a piece of sail canvas a haj;', say ei<;ht 
 inches sipuire, sewed all around, excepting? an inch ^nd 
 a ludf at the upper corner, into which the necl,. o*' a 
 l)Oi!<' ni;/ M> led, and you Iw \'e a w.itin'-vessel that as 
 yet IS luif-nvpassed. This is the honuMuadi^ form, Imt 
 it wvk : i'^ diided to in not only l-ein^ nuide more ele- 
 gantly, hut a j'l;a piece of vulcanite may l»c fastened to 
 the, under side, to protect th<' clotlies ^vheii it is to be 
 slun<jf over one's own sihoulder, I>ut similar l)a<ifs may 
 he made of a larger six" and handed to carri(M's who 
 have light loads. If they are kept clean and filled with 
 hoiled and filtered Avatei- ev(M-y morning, there will be 
 no lack of cold and non-injurious water at every halt. 
 
 Lkvut. — A word or two on the subject of Hghts. Oil- 
 lani])S are unadvisable, as it is ineonvenient to carry 
 bulky cans of oil; the same may l)e said of candles. 
 But a i>;oo«l ball of wick and two or three molds will 
 "fill ^.he ))ill," and provide the means of prepai'iug 
 light (')i route as required; for anywhere and every- 
 where in Africa bee's-wax iruiy be had, and from which 
 enough candles may be mach' in a cou])le of houi's to 
 sui)ply the traveler for a month. These candles, too, 
 are not open to the same objections as the sperm and 
 composite, as tiiey do liOt get soft and melt with the 
 intense heat. 
 
 I would recommend a small bull's-eye lantern with 
 a (piart or two of parafifine to supi)ly it, as there are 
 occasions wlu^n traveling at night is necessary, an<l 
 when compass readings ar(^ to be taken, etc.; then 
 such a protected light will be a great convenience. 
 
4,\ 
 
 ^^^^matm^m- uwmmm\ 
 
 rHoroGRArHY. 
 
 .•5.") I 
 
 of rPtil cold 
 would say: 
 s;-, say ('i<;-lit 
 111 inch j'ud 
 ^ uoflv o*' a 
 'ssol tluit as 
 (' foi-ni, l)nt 
 I' luoru clc- 
 t'astciic(l to 
 ; it is to l)c 
 r bajjfs may 
 irricM-s wlio 
 I filled with 
 lore will l>o 
 very lialt. 
 i^dits. Oil- 
 it to caiTV 
 of candles, 
 molds will 
 propariii<;' 
 lid (n'cry- 
 rom which 
 hours to 
 iidlcs, too, 
 ■^pcrm and 
 t with th(^ 
 
 itcrn with 
 there are 
 sary, and 
 etc.; then 
 'uience. 
 
 PilDTOOKAi'HY. — It may not he amiss to uive a hrief 
 sketch of m'> cxpci'iciice with i»lM»to<,n-ai»hic a|»iilianccs, 
 for the benefit of tli(»sr who may wish to pi-ovide a|)i»a- 
 rutus, material, plates, etc., for a similar canipai,<;n. 
 
 My outfit in this hue consisted of a jthiin WaterKnry 
 8x10 camera, with sinj^le hack, risijin' fr«»nl, foldini; 
 tailboard, and hin«;'ed ground «;lass; one K'oss SxlO 
 rapid symmetrical lens, and one Sx 10 wide-anule i)oi't- 
 able symmetrical. 1 had half a do/,i 'i<)l(lrrs for plates 
 and half a do/eii ditto for (ilms, \.-| h ilcanite slides 
 specially made for me l»y the S" : '"1 u Adams ( 'o. of 
 New York, who sup[>lied all m> .i.oi\ -itiis. 
 
 Five ,i:;ross Carl »ntt SxlO speeinl j-lates, seiisitonieter 
 25, and tlii'et.' gi'oss ("arbiitt ; of same size an<l 
 
 rai)idity. These were packed in hei-meticaily sealed 
 zinc packages containing two dozen each, and after 
 developing were repacked face to face, nothing be- 
 tween, in their original form — a method which 1 can 
 certainly recommend, as, though put to the severest 
 test possible, all my negatives arrived in Jamaica with- 
 out a single breakag(^ or damage. 
 
 Developing material 1 carried dry: soda sulphite, 
 so(hi carbonate, ])otasli carbonate, acid pyrogallic, acid 
 sulphuric; and for fixing, soda liy|>osul[)hile and ainni. 
 
 One ordinary folding-tripod with seven-inch top, 
 three rublier trays, a folding ruby-lantern (pi-ociired 
 from Watson, Jjondon), and one 'riiorntoii tV I'icard 
 patent time shutter, comiileted my photo,<;i'a[»hic par- 
 aphernalia. 
 
 1 develope(l on the niai'ch only when there was no 
 moon, when we chnnceil to camp l)y a <'lear running 
 stream, my tent serving the purpose of a "dark room," 
 
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 352 
 
 l<l:.II.ITY ll-RSUS ROMANCi:. 
 
 i\iu\ with such a pi'ovisioii I'oiiiid no necessity for aiiy- 
 thiiij^ iiioi'c ('hil)oriit('. To avoid the couvoy»iic(^ of 
 licfivy dishes for the "hypo" iiiid wasliiiiu:, I eoii- 
 HtriK'ted ha«>s of I'libber cloth foi' the i>iiri)os(>, tacked 
 Upon frames, and curried u hox to I'eceive expf)sed 
 phites, holding- two dozen, rei»lenishinji; my liolders 
 always at ni«;ht. 
 
 Now as to results, I leuvo tlio reader to ,jud<::e liow 
 far 1 have heen successful in obtaining' ti'uthful repre- 
 sentations of th(» tribes, etc, witli whom I camo in con- 
 tact, iroin those 1 Jiave selected for the iilusti'ation of 
 this book iV<Mn ovei' iive liundred ney-atives now in my 
 possession. 
 
 The liolders i)rovi(h'd by the Scovill ct Achims (V). 
 nevei" fail(Ml nie, and their camera, though neither brass- 
 bound nor leather-bellowed, did not suffer even the 
 smashing of the ground glass; while the boxes contain- 
 ing my i>lioto apparatus experienced the sam<' rough 
 usage as my medicine-chest — carried on the head or 
 shoulders of natives, by river in canoes, and through 
 Jiechuanaland and northward by Avagon, and, like the 
 chest, having l>een s(>veral times under water. Y<'t 
 they are still as servicea1)le as when I first set out. 
 Neither plates nor films showed the slightest sign of 
 <leterioration Avhile they lasted. The only diliticulty I 
 experienced was with th(^ films, Avhich contracted three 
 eighths of an inch, and thus could no longer ])0 con- 
 tained in the groove of the holder, but required to 
 be kei»t in place by pins; this, however, could be easily 
 obviated. 
 
 In addition to the afor(>nnmed equipment, T bad a 
 iyyl detective hand canxM'a, fitte(l Avith an Eastman's 
 
**■>*»'' -^f^mmmm* .r. . >jmmmm^m 
 
 .1 r.lK.'IXi, H OKI). 
 
 .i.>.i 
 
 y for niiy- 
 .'oyjincc! of 
 ){>:, I coii- 
 oso, tucked 
 •(' exposed 
 iiy holders 
 
 jnd<?(^ how 
 lit'ul repre- 
 une ill eon- 
 istrjitiou of 
 now ill my 
 
 A(huiis Co. 
 'itlier brtiss- 
 r even the. 
 :es eoiitain- 
 anie ronj;h 
 ho head or 
 lid throu,uh 
 lid, hke the 
 A'ater. Yet 
 st set out. 
 est siiiii of 
 ditKeulty I 
 acted three 
 i;'er Ix^ con- 
 required to 
 Id be easily 
 
 roll-holder, with a t^^oitd siip|)ly of rolls; hiit they tni'iied 
 out \ery uiisatisructory, l»>r, allhoiinh 1 oiitained ji jar^e 
 niinilter of passably ,u(mk1 snap-shot ney-atives, they 
 
 drie(l after i|e\'el<)|illient Si» nne\e|||y, pUe|<erill,U' ami 
 
 crinkliiiiA', that I eainiot i;ei a <leee)it print tVum them. 
 They ai'e tin- most olist reperoiis in\enti<»n I lia\e e\-er 
 handled ; iKtthin;;' short of " hatleniiin' down " will l<ee|i 
 them Hat. Of these thin roll lilnis I wonid say. Ama- 
 teurs, beware ! 
 
 A partiii<;' word : (*entral A. frica, Iteiiii;' comparatively 
 an unphoto«;raphed eoiiiitry, oll'ers an unlimited lield 
 for the professi(Mial and amateur. The tra\e|ei' will 
 find the camera an unfailiiit;" soni'ce (»f pleasure, and a 
 means of dis[»ellin,u' the cin/iii that will so (tften over- 
 take him in that sti'anu'e land, while the fascination is 
 incr(»ased l)y no little daiiu'er with which his operations 
 will be surroundeil ; but if successful, he cari'ies back 
 with him ]»leasin^' mementos of his join-iiey that will 
 ever remind him of the scen«'s and experiences throuuh 
 which he has passetl. 
 
 lit, T had a 
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