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DEDICATED TO THE WORSHIPFUL THE MAYOR AND CORPORATION, OF THE CITY QUEBEC. PRINTED BY G. T. CABY, 8, FABRIQDB STREET, UPPER TOWN, 1857. ^•?:i^ ■ T , :^. "f > y ■ ,!|..--v::ji; 4, -: vj^f^s; o n-f,}^^ ' 'X '^^-'['-.^i^ '^■^v- •■:■!. ■j-^Kiyr'-'^' kki/^ .-• . *i.. , THE TRAVELLER'S HAND-BOOK ?:.:■<■ ^:;^ M* •.; r^i"!' TO ■^ , ;v6^' , ^M :':,'^0 .^i.; Wv,,.' QUEBEC AND ITS ENVIRONS. ' •:t t I* ; > i ■^^7' The object of the present humble publication is to give the travellers a precise idea of the different objects of interest, either in the City or its environs, the most conve- nient mode of reaching them, and the expense attendant thereupon, together with such slight knowledge of the local history of the place, as will enable the stranger to dispense with any other cicerone than this. There is no city on this continent in which so many varied attractions to the sight-seer are accumulated as Quebec, and more especially is this true of the American Traveller. The cities of America, — Boston to some small extent excepted, — afford nothing of historical interest; their buildings are modern, and their population fluctuating. Not so with THIS OLD French town and Fortress ; its massive walls and frowning battlements have witnessed events of importance in the World's history, and private residences more solid than a New York Church, have sur- vived from the foundations of the City, and were mansions of French Officials when Massachusetts was ruled by the Pilgrim Fathers. The majority of the people are still French, ond the surrounding rural population is almost exclusively composed of the old Canadian habitants, whose picturesque costume and primitive simplicity of manners render them not unworthy observation ; still Enslish is the only tongue known to thousands of residents in the city, and French is an accomplishment which no tourist or other stranger requires to possess ; in fact almost every one with whom he comes into any necessary contact speaks English nearly as fluently as himself. The St. Lawrence, an inlatid sea, in which a man of war might float at ease, effects a junction with the little River St.Charles at Quebec. A stream which is, at high water, navigable for a short distance to vessels of large size, and on which the building of this description of craft is extensively carried on, being in fact the main occupation of the port. l*his " meeting of the waters" forms a promontary on which the'Upper Town stands, the Citadel being situated on the highest part of it, on a considerable elevatior above the river, which this fortress faces, and commands. On the south shore is Point Levi, and the spectator, looking from the Citadel, can see completely over the south shore, contemplating an immense expanse of alternate forest and clearings. On the north aide of the city is the Valley of the St. Charles, a level tract of fertile land, completely culti- vated and densely peopled, the whole country being cover- ed by the neat dwellings of thousands of the French peasan- try, interspersed amongst which are the Parish Churches, handsome stone edifices whose tin ro6fs kept bright by the drynessof the climate, sparkle in the sun. The aoene is closed in the distance by mountains covered with trees to their very summits. Of the numerous villages in sight, is one which the stranger invariably visits. This is IndIan Lorette, situated nine miles to the North West of the City. Its inhabitants, now a mild, peaceful and charitable people, are the descendants of the Hurons, that i«ce with whom Cooper's heroes so oi\en met in mortal strife, and whose ferocity was the dread of the exposed portions of (he Eng- lish coloniest The village is an interesting sight, and the ■^ J people who have retained their Indian garb, and Indian finery, their men are *^ mighty hunters," their descen- dants as of yore, practise the use of the bow as a pastime, and are expert in it. At Fjorettb is a very pretty waterfall, and here also are the works which supply Quebec with a reinarkably wholesome and palatable water, the introduction of which is believed to have had an important effect on the health of the city, which owing to the salubrity of the climate, and extraordinary purity of the atmosphere, is usually good. North eastward of Quebec, at the same distance, is the water fall of Montmorfnci, a perpendicular and single sheet of water falling in one mass from an altitude two hun- dred feet higher than that of Niagara, and in mid-winter (January, February, and March,) forming by spray a lofty SUGAR loaf, (pain de sucre) or ice mountain worthy of St. Petersburgh, — sliding down which, is one of the favorite winter amusements of the Quebecers. ^ These two are not the only water-falls of beauty and interest in the neighborhood. Those of the Chaudiere, the wild and bounding St. Anns, and the romantic La Puce, on the north, are all readily accessible, and at mode- rate prices. The two latter are just beyond Montmotenci. The Lakes of the vicinity are a curious and interesting sight to the stranger from their picturesque and peculiar situaiion, buried as they are in an amphitheatre of pine-clad mountains, and ranging at distances at from 12 to 15 miles from the city, and accessible at a little more than an bourns drive over the finest turnpike roads in the world. The fares to these various points of attraction are as follows : — To the Falls of Montmorinci, (9 miles) including a call at the Grand Battery, Durham Terrace, the Menu- oMlit and the Government Gardens, the Citadel, Cape Diamond, the EBplanade,the French and English Cathedra ie, and all the points of interest in the City, and at Wolfe's Monument on the plains of Abraham, $5. To the Falls of Loretti, (S miles) including do. do. $5. ■^ V t M m Cm o >< 6h CO Em V flO OB 'J u ^ I ".2 o o « t* r-l u .2 o o w ja O U (M a o O •♦¥- ( 2 persons 1 peisoDs. Every addi- ti onal peraon 2 peraons. 1 persons. Every addi' tional person 2 persons. 1 person. a»»--^ c — ■^ojcoooeooo 1-hoo ■-• O . -«Oo-^OiJ OOP o r- w o 1-1 rH »-l rH ,— I M ot- o CO -^ i-t -e t- 1- 1- !>• t- 1- t- t- t- t- CO C0 O i-i iwCOO^C Q i-ti-* Otyii-i CO ■Bp-ie<»FH»HN^j»-H ,_iphfh OS O ki -« 7' f !?■,*-■,'■.( o '> ''^:'\ ' • • I • .2 : > • a o OS rO ^« it o 08 'O ' □ o •a ^ P ^ m- 4-* J^** ♦* o O ns ft a «. a CO C8 ga 0= = In 08 a _ Li O «, a ► CO CO D I *f u a o ■q V 9 er 9 00 » » ' " V4 .^ ■ r *v~^''( I a « « » , OS OD *i « •-< v? a e fe m H s V 5 rr 08 FM *« 9 O 08 Jd tfl w > o < (-1 • © 4 1-t I ?.- >-« a a a> 9 O* m O to . i Omnibus linea, however run to several other placca of resort in the neighborhood, including Cap Kouoe Kiver, where extensive docks, and timber yards, are seen from the commanding headland, where the two turnpikes, St. Lewis and St. Foy, unite, 7 miles from town. Others are con- stantly traversing the length of Coves on the north shore of the St. Lawrence. Quebec being the emporium of the lumber trade, the Timber Coves are an object of decided interest, (*) and as they are best seen from the river — from whence the appear- ance of the north shore is strikingly grand and beautiful — the stranger who has arrived by railway, or has otherwise missed the approach to the city by the river route, from the westward, is strongly advised, if it be 8ummer>to hire a boat, which can be got at any moment at the Lower Town market place, and other landings. This of course refers to the summer, as in winter the places last named present less attraction, save the spot at which- (he distmguished Ameri- can commander expired in his heroic though ill-fated attempt to storm that redoubtable fortress, which preserved the last remains of British power in America. The site where this gallant officer fell, is marked by a simple tablet, and inscription on the face of the cli£r,whioh for many miles overhangs the bank of the River, reducing the shore to space with a single street, for the most part an excellent plank road, along which the horses seem to fly. The Norman horses of the country, by the way, are not by any means to be despised, and the stranger will do well to look at them with some attention. The Lower Town of Quebec is the business mart, and is crowded into aeon finedspace between the rock and the river. This place every stranger will escape from as soon as possible. It is an over-crowded depot of commerce, and as even a temporary residence not to be thought of. Moreover, all (hat is to he seen in it may be viewed with comfort from Durham Terrace, an unrivalled promenade on the brink of the cape, fanned by cooling breezes from the river and commanding a natural (•) A. good view of the Coves may be obtained from the vicinity of Wolfe's Monument, or the Race Course. panoramic view over land and water, rivalling the Bay of Naples in magnificence, beauty, and extent. On the west of D; rham Terrace is the Old Chateau or Castle of the French Intendants or Governors, and im- mediately contiguous are the Governor's Gardens (open to the public,) the lower of which contains delightful shade walks, or rather covered avenues of lilac trees, which defy the sun at noon day. In the upper portion of the Governor's Gardens is '^ The Monument" erected to the memory of Wolfe and Mont- OALM,the respective commanders of the English and French forces at the memorable battle of the Plains of Abraham, before the city, which caused the capitulation of Quebec, and added New France to the British Empire. Here the splendid Military Regimental Bands of the British troops in Garrison perform the choicest music three limes a week during the summer months. In the immediate vicinity is the most open, airy, and fashionable neighborhood in the city of Quebec. Hereabouts too are congregated the Pi st Offiob, (lately Free Mabons' Hail,) with its sign of the Chein d'Or, the romantic tragic history of which, being variously related, is best enquired for by the curious stranger on the spot. The Court House, the English Cathedral, and Bishop's residence, and a step further up is a building well calculated to inspire a just idea of the extensive and liberal accommodation afforded to the travelling public in the City of Quebec. This is the Clarendon House, a building of the first class even m the opinion of the American traveller, accustomed as he is to tenements whose size has giver, them the name of the People's Palaces. The present proprietor having added a wing containing suites of parlors and bed-rooms adjoining each other, furnished in a manner to meet the wishes of the most fastidious. Nor will the interiom disappoint him. The proprietor, having this season imported a quantity of the best Brussel's and silk velvet carpeting stair cloths, hearth and door mats, also table and bed linen, with a number of large superior British platci mirrors for his drawing rooms and parlors. and well Iberal lityof the [cUer, iver. sent rlors Inner will iving beel'a [door large and There is also in connection with the house an excellent READING ROOM, with lounging chairs and every thing calculated to contribute (o the comfort of the guests, in which the English, American, and Canadian newspaper press is fairly and largely represented. Also, will be found, within the building, a superior and and well-ventilated set of Bath- Rooms, a desideratum hitherto wanted in Quebec. CLaRCNDON HOUSE, St. Lewis Street, ."-..li, .r'?:i3?- ».?"•- Lately extended and entirely renovated, has greater attractions than any house in the city, for the fitting up of the entire house is equal to its dimensions, and its position is in the most central as well as the moat agreeable portion of the city. The host, a man who makes nothing of importing from abroad $3,000 worth of goods for his establishment in a single consignment and from .a single house, and orders his wines and liquors direct from their respective countries, has had the art of availing himself of his position between two great streams of travel, to combine the respective advantages of opposite systems, and unite the ease and freedom of the English with the extended com- prehensiveness of the American Hotel. The markets of Quebec are equal to any on the continent, and from the superiority of the climate during the warm months, all perishable articles, such as fruits and fish, are to be found in Better condition in Quebec than in Boston or New York. The nights, for instance, nre always cool, and owing to the remarkable purity of the air, shade is invariably attended by a comfortable degree of cold. Even in July, the effects of the air on vegetable and animal substances may be judged by the fact that **the prickly heat'- so common to the latter cities is unknown to the former. Neither is there any malady whatevQi; incidental to the Canadian summer. Let the stranger, if fond of Boating, take with him from the hotel, a small cask or jar of the acqueduct water of Lorette, and which passing through iron pipes, and per- 10 ffc^ haps from other causes, is slightly astringent, rather than risk being tempted to use the water ot the St. Lawrence, which is aptf with some constitutions, to produce diarrhoea. Thanks to the rapidity and facility of communication; thanks to the reciprocity treaty, the harmony existing between the British and American people, and the rapidity and facility of communicaiion between them, Quebec can be, and is, constantly supplied with every luxury to which the affluent are accustomed in the cities of the Northern or Southern States. Under such circumstances, it would be singular if the table of the Quebec Hotel could not be sumptuously supplied. The Clarendon in this respect fully maintains its high reputation. Sitting at the generous board of the experienced host, the guest misses nothing that he would have obtained at any other first class house, American or English, Avith much around him that he might not expect at either. Neither does the presentation of a French dinner, w hich no Frenchman would condemn, put the owner to any very extraordinary difficulty. The centrality of the site and reputation of the establishment cause those whose busi- ness is to convey travellers about the vicinity, to be anxious to secure the good will of the oouse by their treatment of visitors. If, during his sojourn, the stranger desires to add a visit to the salt water and sea breezes of the Lower St. Lawrence to that of his experience of Quebec, he may safely embark on the boat recommended to him at his hotel, well assured that the recommendation will be based upon its merits as simply tKe Ibest conveyance to the intended haven. The water of the St. Lawrence becomes salt at about thirty miles below Quebec, gradually changing from River to Sea. *s.s There are several convenient and agreeable spots of fashionable resort for sea bathing below Quebec,ea8ily acces- sible by good and commodious steamboats from that city, and the scenery down the river is of great beauty. For many miles a continuous row of well buUt cot- tages, almost resembles one prolonged street. The habita- . tions of man, and the culture of the earth, extend along he ghore ; numerous islands dot the surface of the water with :, iit^ 11 be the )ines iginf? ks of jces- that liuty. Icot- )ita- he nih forms appearing to have been moulded by the hand ot nature from a blending of rock and tree. Of these the first and largest, Orleans, is situated but two miles from Quebec, constantly accessible by a ferry, and differing from most of its sisters, it is the Isle of Wight of Lower Canada, dis- tinguished for fertility of soil and beauty of aspect. The quarantine grounds of Grosse Isle, nearly at the junction of the salt and fresh waters, unite the rugged picturesque of of Norwegian scenery, " Alpine pine and mossy rock," with the melancholy interest attaching to its own sad history, for it may be truly called the Island of the Dead. Further down we come to the mouth of the noble Saguenay, one of the largest streams even of this country of rivers, and passing through one of the mountainous tracts of a country which has beer called the Highlands of Canada. The timber of this territory being very fine, the lumbering establishments of the vicinity are matters of some interest even to the casual traveller, who is always sure of a ready welcome to them. But the chief interest of the place arises from the stern and extraordinary grandeur of the scenery. A large river rushes through the Titanic walls of rock to its predestined ocean home. The beetling crag, the stupendous precipice, and the towering and lofty forest meet the eye, it is the scenery of Labrador without its barrenness of soil, and dwarfed and scanty wood and brush. If the traveller desire to limit his movements totheimme- diate vicinity of Quebec, a convenient vehicle is at the door in about one minute, and in a few more, the traveller is gazing over the wide plains which formed the deathbed of victorious Wolfe, and the no less illustrious Montcalm, or the narrow gorge in which the equally gallant IVlontgomery fell, swoVd in hand ; or contemplating a Church, Nunnery, Seminary, or other building within the city, or remarking the singular and pleasing prospect of life and manners amongst the virtuous descendants of the French, in the clean and wholesome though crowded suburbs of St. John, St. Lewis, and St. Roch's Wards, without the walls, inhabited by the unchanged descendants of the old French whom the Revo- lution has swept away, even in their own land, whom America beheld when she beheld La Fayette, and who, save in Lower Canada, exist no more! rX f 'p ST. LEWIS STREET, '9 ■^, m V J 1^. » M^i: Aitri > ' ^ ■i-H ''i.jt ST. LEWIS STREET, OUEIEC. Breakfast. . . 5 and 8 o'clock. I Dinner 2^ and 6 o'clock. Lunch 12 to 1 " Tea 8 " mNNER ON 8nnDii7& ItT TWO O^CLOCK* l~ i -" - [ - ■ - ii - i r i nr»- i n < nmf Mw> Mn »* > i r i rif-»- ii ->-i- ii -n » rt w>^ m )Mi r > r*T i r ii - | "^Ims dkUxt^t mm)i aW %Citg. Citadel, the well known fortifications. Ti{E Esplanade. Governor's Garden and Mo- nument. Durham Terrace. ,1!^Grand Battery and Latal CoX.LrEOE% Cathei>ral9» SEMINARTi .''-$• Parliament Buildinos. ^! iji^AU these places are about 1 imnute^s walk from tke HoteL Plains OF Abraham Battle ]|i||lPy with the new Wolfe's Monument, ^ hour^arlmve frctta the Hotel. Falls of Montmwrenci, and Natural Steps 9 milesr Little River, Lorette, anp^Indtam Village. 9 ** Usual Carriage $5. Fall^ of Chaudikre 12 " Falls of La Puce and St. Anne 26 " Lake St. Charles ..,..16 *< Lake Bbauport 16 " TTteH Lakes are long famed for the excellence of their TVoutr N. B.— Farttos leaving hj Care or Boats will please noiHf at the OiBoe befor^aa^ Printed by G. T. Cart, U i nfFo,bti%m Street. 5 UEBIC. *! and 6 o'clookr O'CLOCK. % Citg. CRY and Laval BUILDINUS. fromtke HateL new Wolfb's [otel. 9 miksr 9 " ...12 " ...25 ** . .15 « 16 « their T^rout. iBoats will kreet. ?3*