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Paul, Columbia ring Room ad through Street, isgow; rEANT, nagcr, Quebec. in IIHIS, THE CANADIAN GUIDE-BOOK Et)t Courijsf antr Sportsman't; dSiuiht to (Eastern Canatia anti j^elnfountilanl) INCLUDING FULL DESCRIPTIONS OF ROUTES, CITIES, POINTS OP INTEREST, SUMMER RESORTS, PISHING PLACES, ETC. IN EASTERN ONTARIO, THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT, THE ST. LAWRENCE REGION, THE LAKE ST. JOHN COUNTRY, THE MARITIME PROVINCES, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND, AND NEWFOUNDLAND WITH AN APPENDIX GIVING FISH AND GAME LAWS, AND OFFICIAL LISTS OF TROUT AND SALMON RIVERS AND THEIIl LESSEES BY CHARLES G. D. ROBERTS PBOPBSSOR OF KNOUSH LITBBATURB IK KINO'h COLLBOB, WINDSOR, N. H. IGENTS, TREET, S.W., OP Com- rtislng. 1 Inform- S£ED Wn'H MAPS AND MANY ILLUSTRATIOSS LONDON WILLIAM HEINE MANN 1892 [All rights rtatfi'ved] FC 93 I^ So 9.%/ '« W'. - i » lt< «B.. C O N T E NTS. iMTItOUUCTION I'AttE 1 I'UOVINCK OK ONTARIO. TlIK NlAOAKA HiVKIt 5 Niupiru Kuliri 6 KHOM NiAOAItA TO T(m<)NT(» 18 Till' Wutur KiHite 18 The (iraiid Trunk Koiite 15 Iltuuiltoii IH Toronto 80 Tliu MiiHkoku DiHtrUa 80 FUOM ToUONTO KAHTWAIII) 85 KiiiKHton 40 The TboiiuamI IhIuihIh 48 TIh" St. Lawrence ItupidH 46 Ottawa 4» FitoM Ottawa to Montrkal 58 PKOVINCE OF QUEBEC. PiioviNCB OF Quebec 58 Montreal GO FiioM Montueal to St. John W FuoM Montkeai. to Quebec 73 By the St. Lawrence River 78 By Rail on the South Shore 79 By Rail on th4 North 80 (;uel)ec 81 Fbom Quebec to Lake St. John 05 Lake St. John «« Down the St. Lawrence and up the Sauuenay 102 The Saguenay River 100 From Chicoutimi to the Mouth 108 Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity .... ... 100 From Quebec to the Maritime Provincbh : By Kail Ill By SteaiDBhip ro'ind GoHp^ 114 The Gaspd Peninsula . 115 IV CONTENTS. PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK. PAOE TiiK Province of Nkw Bkunswick lai The Rt'Btigouche ... 132 From the Rehtioouche to Moncton lao The Miramichi 12» Moncton 131 Trips from Moncton 1.31 From Moncton to St. John i;« St. John l;W Up the River St. John 141 Frcileiicton 147 From Frederick to Woodstock l.'il Tlu! r|)jH>r St. John .... 152 Tlie (JriHul Falls of the St. John LW Above the (iraiui Falls 1.57 Routes for the Sportsman lo!» Up the Tobique by (.'anoe 105 Bv Rail from Woodstock . . . 18<) Canipobello and tlrand Manan 183 The Return to St. John . . 180 From Moncton to Amherst 187 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. Prince Edward Island 192 Charlottetown 1{»5 From Charlottetown eastward 1S)7 NOVA SCOTIA. Nova Scotia 201 To PlCTOU AND ANTKiONISII 203 CaiH! Breton 207 Through the Bras d'Or Waters to Sydney 20'.) Baddeck 209 Sydney 211 From New (Jlas(jow to Truro and Halifax 21.5 Truro 215 Halifax 218 From Halifax to Bridoewater . 239 From Bridoe water to Yarmouth 242 Yarinontli 2-15 i^^RoM Halifax eastward 240 From Halifax to Yarmouth by Rail 247 Windsor 248 From Windsor to Parrsdoro and St. John 250 From Windsor to Grand Pru 352 CONTENTS. V PAGE From Wolfvillk to Annapolis 25(5 From Annapolis to Yarmouth 259 NEWFOUNDLAND. The Island of Newfoundlano 227 Ht. .John's 221) Trips prom St. John's 2 .1 Along the Const 2;W Conception Bay and the South Coast 2:14 The French Shore 21*7 appp:ndix for sportsmen. (ieneral Information 2r»3 Lessees of Fishnig Rights 2t'>-l Close Seasons for FisLing anil Hunting 2«57 ■■I L LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. KACINO PAGE NiA< . . . S Luna Falls and the Hock ok Aoes 13 In the Thousand Isles . .44 liONo Sault Kai'ids 5^5 Running Lachine Uapips . . 58 Citadel at (^i^ebec , . .86 Cape (;asp6 jjg PEHcfi Rock IKj (JAspfi Kesidents returning fbom Chuucu iiH The Beach at Paspebiac, and View of the Bay 122 Valley op the Metapedia 124 A Moose Family 14g CuiUNG Fish at PEitcK . . 159 Cauiboi' Miokation igg The Steamer Arctic, Prince Edward Island i«h Cape Porcupine, and Cape St. George 191 The Oldest House in Prince Edward Island 194 Old Fireplace at Entry Island \(}f^ The Mail-boat at Prince Edavard Island ... . . -joi On the Road to Baddeck 010 The Monthly Mail Train from Hall's Bay to Codroy . . . 2!» (JOVERNMENT HoUSES AND ToWN PUMPS AT St. PiERRE . . 23() Cape Blomidon .... .•(;.» Cape Split g_^ VIU LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. MAPS. Plan of Montueai Plan of (Quebec Canadian Salmon Uivera and Gasp6 Basin (lENERAL Map, Province of Ontario . '• •• Province op (Quebec *' " Maritime Pr()vince>< FACINd pa«je (M 85J . 363 /« Pocket. salmon. INTRODUCTION. The A "ar home of freemen brave and true, And loving honor more than euHe or gold. AoNKH Maitlk MachaH. Strktchino from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from Lake Erie to the Arctic Ocean, occupying a more xpacious territory than the United States and Alaska, lies the great dominion to which the name of Canada now applies, a country whose people are engrossed in the work of na- tion-making. Perhaps nowhere else in the world, at this present day, are such mighty forces stirring to such gigantic and uncalculate years is, after all, but an insignificant fraction of what has been occupied in the operations of geological time." For a detailed description of the various points of interest at the Falls, the tourist may depend on one of the various local guide-books, which go into particulars in a way that can not be done in a work of such range as the present. The following brief account, condensed from Appletons' General (Juidc, will indicate the wealth of material on which these local guide-books may exercise their powers of descrip- tton and imagination : Goat Island is the point usually visited first. It is reached by a bridge 360 ft. long, the approach to which is just in rear of the Cata- ract House. The bridge itself is an object of interest, from its ap- parently dangerous position. It is, however, perfectly safe, and is crossed constantly by heavily laden carriages. The view of the rapids from the bridge is one of the most impressive features of the Niagara scenery. Below the bridge, a short distance from the verge of the American Falls, is Chapin's Island, so named in memory of a work- man who fell into the stream while at woi-k on the bridge. lie lodged on this islet and was rescued by a Mr. Hobinson, who gallantly went to his rescue in a skiff. About midway of the stream the road crosses Bath Island. A short walk brings us to the foot-bridge leading to Luna Island, a huge rock-nuiss of some three (piarters of an acre, lying between the Center Falls and the American Falls. The exquisite lunar rainbows seen at this point, when the moon is full, have given it the name it bears. Just beyond Luna Island a spiral stairway (called " Biddle's Stairs," after Nicholas Biddle, of United States Bank fame, by whose order they were built) leads to the foot of the clitf. From the foot of the stairs, which are secured to the rocks by strong iron fastenings, there are two diverging paths. That to the right leads to the Care of the Winds, a spacious recess back of the Center Falls. Guides and water-proof suits for visiting the cave may be obtained at the stairs (fee, ^1.50), and the excursion is well worth making. You can pass safely into the recess behind the water to a platform beyond. Magical rainbow pictures arc found at this spot ; sometimes bows of 10 NIAGARA FALLS. vii , entire circles and two or three at once are seen. A [>lank-walk has been carried out to a chister of rocks near the foot of the fall, and from it one of the best views of the American Falls may be obtained. The up-river way, along the base of the cliff toward the Horseshoe Falls, is difficult and much obstructed by fallen rocks. It was from a point near Biddle's Stairs that the renowned juniper, Sam Patch, made two successful leaps into the water below (in 1829), saying to the throng of spectators, as he went off, that "one thing might be done as well as another." Keasccnding the stairs, a few minutes' walk along the summit of the cliff brings us to a bridge leading to the islet on which stood the famous Terrapin Tower, which having become danger- ous was blown up with gunjjowder in 1873. The view of the Horse- shoe Falls from this point is surpassingly grand. It was estimated by Lyell that 1,500,000,000 cubic feet of water pass over the ledges every hour. One of the condemned lake-ships (the Detroit) was sent over this fall in 1829; and, though she drew 18 ft. of water, she did not touch the rocks in passing over the brink of the precipice, showing that the water is at least 20 ft. deep above the ledge. At the other end of Goat Island (reached by a road from the Horse- shoe Falls), a series of graceful bridges leads to the Three Sisters, as three small islets lying in the Rapids are called. On Goat Island, near the Three Sisters, is the Hermit's Bathing-place, so called after Francis Abbott, " The Hermit of Niagara," who used to bathe here, and who finally drowned while doing so. At the foot of Grand Island, near the Canada shore, is Navy Island, which was the scene of some interesting incidents in the Canadian Bebellitm of 1837-'38, known as the Macken- zie War. It was near Schlosser lianding, about 2 miles above the Falls, on the American side, that during the war the American steamer Caro- line, which had been perverted to the use of the insurgents, was set on fire and sent over the Falls by the order of Sir Allan McNab, a Canadian officer. The State of New York purchased, in 1 886, the property bordering the Falls, and laid out Niagara Park, to be controlled by a State Com- mission, empowered to remove all obstructions to the view, and to im- prove the grounds. No charge is made for admission to Niagara Park. A " vertical railway," running on a steep incline, leads from the park to the base of the cliff ; and from its foot the river may be crossed in the steamboat the Maid of the Mist. The passage across the river is perfectly safe, and is worth making for the very fine view of the Falls NIAGARA FALLS. 11 obtained in mid-sticani. A winding road along the cliff-side leads from the landing on the Canadian side to the top of the bluff, near the Clif- ton House. By climbing over the rocks at the base of the cliff on the American side (turn to the left after descending the railway), the tour- ist may penetrate to a point within the spray of the American Fall, and get what is perhaps, on the whole, the finest view of it to be had. The usual way of crossing to the Canadian side is over the New Suspension Bridge, which arches the river about one eighth of a mile below the Falls, and is one of the curiosities of the locality (fee for pedestrians, 25c.), It was finished in 1869, at a cost of |!l 75,000; is 1,190 ft. from cliff to cliff, 1,268 ft. from tower to tower, and 190 ft. above the river; and it was widened in 1888, all the wooden parts of the structure being replaced by iron. It was carried away by the gale of January 10, 1889, but has been rebuilt. The tower on the American side is lOO ft. high, and that on the Canadian side 105 ft. A road to the left from the bridge terminus leads along the cliff, affording good views of the American and Center Falls. A short distance above the terrace near the Falls is the spot still called Table Rock, though the immense overhanging platform originally known by that name has long since fallen over the precipice. From this [)oint the best front view of the Falls is obtained, and that of the Horseshoe Fall is incomparably grand. The concussion of the falling waters with those in the depths below produces a spray that veils the cataract two thirds up its height. Above this impenetrable foam to the height of 50 ft. above the Fall, a cloud of lighter spray rises, which, when the sun shines upon it in the proper direction, displays magnificent solar rainbows. The a[)j)ro- priateness of the name Niagara (" Thimder of Waters ") is very evi- dent here. At Table Rock may be procured guides and water-proof suits for the passage under the Horseshoe Falls (fee, 50c.). This passage (which no nervous person should attempt) is described as fol- lows by a writer in Picturesque America: " The wooden stairways are narrow and steep, but perfectly safe ; and a couple of minutes brings us to the bottom. Here we are in spray-land indeed : for we have hardly begun to traverse the pathway of broken bits of shale when, with a mischievous sweep, the wind sends a baby cataract in our direc- tion, and fairly inundates us. The mysterious gloom, with the thun- dering noises of the falling waters, impresses every one ; but, as the pathway is broad, and the walking easy, new-comers are apt to think there is nothing in it. The tall, stalwart negro, who acts as guide, 12 NIAGARA FALLS. listens with amusement to such comments, and confidently awaits a change in the tone of the scoffers. More and more arched do the rocks become as we proceed. The top part is of hard limestone, and the lower of shale, which has been so battered away by the fury of the waters that there is an arched passage behind the entire Horseshoe Fall, which could easily be traversed if the currents of air would let us pass. But, as we proceed, we begin to notice that it blows a trifle, and from every one of the 32 points of the compass. At first, how- ever, we get them separately. A gust at a time inundates us with spray ; but the farther we march the more unruly is the Prince of Air. First, like single spies, come his winds ; but soon they advance like skirmishers ; and, at last, where a thin colunm of water falls across the path, they oppose a solid phalanx to our efforts. It is a point of nonor to see who can go farthest through these corridors of ililolus. It is on record that a man, with an herculean effort, once burst through the column of water, but was immediately thrown to the ground, and only rejoined his comrades by crawling face downward, and digging his hands into the loose shale of the pathway. Prof. Tyndall has gone as far as mortal man, and he describes the buffeting of the air as indescribable, the effect being like actual blows with the fist." Termination Rock is a short distance beyond Table Rock, at the verge of the fall. The spray here is blinding, and the roar of waters deafening. Below the Falls are several points of interest, which arc best vis- ited on the American side. The first of these is the old Suspension Bridge, whicii spans the gorge 2 miles below the Falls, and siipports railway-tracks, a roadway, and footways. The bridge is 245 ft. above the water, and supported by towers on each bank, the centers of which are 821 ft. apart. It was built in 1855 by the late John A. Roebling, and cost $300,000. The fee for crossing the bridge is 25c. for pedes- trians, which confers the right t;) return free on the same day. From one side of this bridge a fine distant view of the Falls is had, and from the other a bird's-eye view of the seething, tumultuous Whirl* T^'»ol Rapids. Three hundred feet above may be seen the new Slichi- ji,un < 'entral R. R. Cantilever Bridge. By descending the elevator, wiAich 'oads from the top to the base of the cliff near the site of the old Monteagle House, a nearer view is obtained of these wonderful iiiplti. in which the waters rush along with such velocity that the mid- dle of the current is 30 ft. higher than the sides. Three miles below t8 a the and the ihoe '■ " let ifle, ow- vith Air. like POS8 tof i Luna Falls and Rock of Ages. NIAGARA TO TORONTO. 13 the Falls is the \¥hirlpool, occasioned by a Hharp bend in the river, which is here contracted to a width of 220 ft. From Niagara to Toronto. From Niagara Falls one has a choice of routes to Toronto. One may f^o by the Grand Trunk around the head of the lake, or by rail to the river bank below the Rapids, and thonce by steamer straight across Lake Ontario from the mouth of Niagara River. The land route (fare, single, $2.65 ; return, ;{!4.45), which is the longer, artords an oppor- timity of seeing that magnificent engineering work the Welland Canal, and of visiting the cities of St. Catharines and Hamilton. If one goes by the river route (fare, single, 1^1-50; return, $2. .30), one sees the beauties of the Niagara district, the gardens of Canada, the storied Queenston Heights, and the delightful summer resort of Niagara-on- the-Lake, besides enjoying a cool sail of 40 miles across the waters of Ontario. THE WATER ROUTE. By this river route the tourist finds yet further latitude allowed him. The journey from the Falls may be made either by the Michigan Central to Niagara-on-the-Lake on the Canadian side, or along the American shore by the New York Central to the wharf at Lewiston, 7 miles from the mouth, where one meets the fine Clyde-built steamers of the " Niagara River Line," making connections across the lake four times each day. The New York Central runs through The Gorge itself, along a ledge which has been carved out of the face of the cliff. Above towers the beetling front of rock, and far below thunders the tremendous tor- rent. In the gorge of Niagara the water does not flow, or rush, or dart, but it bounds and bursts as if belched forth from some hidden volcano. Presently the mad flood is caught and enchained for a time in the sul- len vortex of the Whirlpool. Of this unmythical Maelstrom one catches a thrilling glimpse from the car window. Tlien the gorge nar- rows again ; and plunging through short tunnels, swerving dizzily on its airy shelf, round jutting peaks, the road threads the windings of the abyss, gradually descending, till it comes out upon the lower level at Lewiston. Here is the head of navigation, and at the dock, to the side of which the railway has now been extended, the tourist steps on board the steamers. The river rests here in a great, slow-reeling eddy. 14 NIAGARA TO TORONTO. »? In this eddy the steamer turns, and is grateful for the service of the revolving current. Opposite Ticwiston rise Queenston Heights, the most famous battle-field of the War of iHTi. Here, for an autumn day, three quarters of a century apo, raged a bitter struggle between the Ameri- can and Canadian forces, resulting at length in victory for the Cana- (lians, who paid too dear for their triumph, however, with the death of their heroic leader. General Sir Isaac Brock. May it prove an augury of perpetual peace and good-will along these frontiers that when, two days after the battle, (Jeneral Urock was being buried in l Itooi'MtU'i-, lK>li(>ving thiit thu whoU' Hritish iiriiiy was in front, rtiUTcndered Ills force o( r>0(> infantry, 50 (.'iiviMry, 2 field- guns, nnd a stand of colors, to the yonnj,' ensi Ontario outlet. The trade center of this inexhaustibly fertile Niagara region, and supplied with unlimited water-power l)y means of the canal, St. Cathiirines has become an important commer- cial city. It Is purely a product of the canal, and ow»'s its existence as a city to the indomitable energy of William llandlton Merritt, who conceived the idea of the great engineering work and fimilly pushed it to completion. St. Catharines has im[)ortant ship-yards, mills, and nuichine-works ; handsome public buildings, lirst-dass hotels, and (»ne of the best collegiate institutes in the province. It is also a very popular health resort, much visited by Southerners. The waters of its mineral springs rank high among the medicinal waters of the world. There is fishing in the neigliborho* d for black bass, perch, and pickerel. Chief hotel the Welland House (ij^'J). The Welland Canal, connecting the watcis of Lakes Erie aiul Ontario, is a work of tremendous importance, giving as it does an out- let to the sea for the vast trade of the (Ireat Lakes. The canal is 27 miles in length from Port Colborne on Lake Erie to Port Dalhousie on Lake Ontario. The difference in level between the lakes is about ;^27 ft., which is overcome by a system of 25 lift-locks. All the masonry of the work is of splendid and massive proportions, and is built of an enduring gray limestone. At Welland the canal is led over the Chip- pewa River by a costly acjueduct. The original feeder of the canal was the Cliippewa River, which proving at ti?nes inadequate, a branch canal was cut to the (irand River. Of late, however, arrangements have been made by which the canal is always adecpiately sup|)lied from Lake Erie itself. Along the line of the canal are strung a nundjer of prosperous villages. The first sod of the original canal was turned in I8'i4. Mr. Merritt's modest conception was a canal "4 ft. deep, 1 ft. wide at bottom, 19 ft. wide at the water surface, and to accommodate vessels not exceeding 40 tons burden." The present structure has a width at the bottom of 100 ft., and accommodates vessels of 1,500 tons. i i' 18 NIAGARA TO TORONTO. Leaving St. Catharines our train passes the villages of Jordan and Bcamsville, and 27 miles from Niagara we find ourselves at the busy village of Grimsby. Here is the summer resort of Grimsby Park, with its famous Methodist eamp-meeting ground in a grove of oaks and pines beside the lake. The region about Grnnsby is literally one great peach-orchard. It is estimated that there are something like 400,000 peach-trees in the Niagara district, which ships annually over a n)illion baskets of this delicious fruit. The beauty of the peach-orchards, whether in bloom or when bending under their wealth of luscious pink aiid white and golden spheres, is something that beggars description. The peach harvest begins about the end of July and continues until the middle of October. The peaches are shipped all over Canada in baskets covered with pink gauze. In this favored region flourish also apples, pears, plums, cherries, all kinds of small fruits, melons, quinces, grapes, walnuts, chestnuts, and even figs. Beyond Grimsby we have only the stations of Winona and Stony Creek to pass before we come to Hamilton. Hamilton. The chief hotel of Hamilton is the Royal ($2.. 50 to $4 per day), which is first class in every lespoct ; but there are many other good hotels, such as the Sf. Nicholm (^l.i>0 to ^2) and the Domuiioa (il to |1.50), where the tourist may be accommodated more cheai)ly. The city is well supplied with restaurants, called coffee-rooms. The chief club is the Hamilton (Mub. Theatres, the Grand Opera-House, Asso- ciation Hall, Alexandra Arcade. The city is traversed by street-cars, and hacks are to be obtained at the station and the cab-stands as well as at the chief hotels. The city of Hamilton is beautifully and fortunately situated at the head of navigation on Lake Ontario. Across the upper end of the lake, where the northern and southern shores stand but 5 miles apart, the east winds of centuries have heaped together a long bar of sand nearly a thousand feet in width. This is known as Burlington Beach, and it cuts off from the stormy lake the quiet waters of Bur- lington Bay, the harbor of Hamilton. A short canal through the Heach connects the inner and the outer waters. The Beach is a favorite sum- mer resort for the citizens of Hamilton. Hamilton lies at the foot of a steep hill called the " Mountain," and occupies one of those " benches " which surround the lake, and prob- ably mark a former level of its surface. The site of Hamilton was chosen originally by a loyalist refugee, one Robert Land, on account NIAGARA TO TOUONTO. 11) as at the )art, and ton inr- Mich um- and •ob- was unt . of its splcMidid landscape. The " Mountain " is a [mition of the Niaj^ani escarpment, wliich here curves grandly hack from the lake to form the amphitheatre which the city occupies. Down a great slopinj; strath, dividing the heights in this neighborhood like a gigantic gut- ter, at the foot of which now lies the town of Dundas, geologists tell us that, in remotest ages, the waters of I.ake Krie discharged them- selves, instead of at Niagara. Hamilton maybe said to have had its birth in the War of 1H12, when Burlington Heights became a center of military operations, and one George Hamilton cut up his farm into town lots. In 1824 the cut- ting of a canal through Hurlingtou Heach began the |)rosperity of Ham- ilton, which, however, was sadly interfered with by the cholera plague and great fire in 1K82. Hamilton was not disheartened, aiul went to work again with the pluck and spirit which have earned her the title of " the Ambitious City." Her ambition bids fair to be gratified in all save one particular — and in that she has by this time relin(puslied all hope. Of old, she thought to outstrip Toronto; but when, in 1888, with a po[)idation less than 4r),(iOtt, she saw Toronto with ITo.ooO, she probably changed the tenor of her ambition to something more within the range of i)ossibiIity. Iler ancient rivals, Ancaster and Dundas. she has long ago left utterly behind, reducing them to the raidc of sub- urban villages. Hamilton is a wealthy and tirelessly energetic city, with manufact- uring interests out of all proportion to its size. It is the cathedral city of two dioceses, the Anglican bishopric of Niagara and the L'oman Catholic bishopric of Hamilton. The city has handsome public build- ings, and stately private residences on the Mountain. Cresting the height are the spacious buildings of the Limatic Asylum. A stately thoroughfare, dividing the city from the Mountain to the bay, is McNab St., named for Hamilton's hero, the politician, i»atriot, and soldier, Sir Allan McNab. It was he who, during the rebellion in 18:57, shat- tered the power of the rebels at Toronto, and organized the flotilla on the Niagara which cut out the steamer Caroline and sent her over the Falls. On the heights stands Dinidurn Castle, where Sir Allan used to live, looking out over the city whose prosperity he had done so nnich to promote. One of the most delightful features of Hamilton is what is known as " Th«' Gore." This is a sj)acious and beautiful public gar- den in the heart of the city, with the busiest thoroughfari's all about it. The open space, which is cool and musical with fountains and brill- 20 NIAGARA TO lOKONTO. iant with flowcr^*, is triangular in shape, and formed by the converging of York, James, and King Sts, Overlooking " The Gore " are the thoroughly artistic buildings of the Hamilton Provident and Loan Society, the Canada Life Assurance Company, and the Court-House. But 6 miles from Hamilton, and connected with it by a steam tramway, is Dundas. In one thing Dundas can never be outrivaled by Hamilton and that is in her magnificent landscape, which opens like a dieam be- fore the traveler's eyes as he sweeps around the mountain. At the foot of the lovely Dundas \^alley lies a wide marsh which goes by the nickname of " Coote's i'aradise," after an English officer, Captain Coote, who was deeply enamored of the fine duck, snipe, and " coot " shooting there to be obtained. The marsh still maintains its repu- tation ; and in Bui-lington Bay are good black bass, silver bass, perch, and pike fishing. The pike take the trolling-spoon freely during the latter part of August, but at other times rise better to the live minnow. From Hamilton to Toronto, if wearied of the rail, one may go by the steamers of the Hamilton Steamboat Co., four times daily (fare, 75c.), a trip of 33 miles along a pleasant coast. The boats are fast and comfortable, and call each way at Burlington IJeach and at the vast strawberry-gardens of Oakville. The tourist desirous of visiting the Northern Lakes, or what is perhaps more widely known as the Muskoka region, may bianch off by the Northern and Wcstei-n B. K. from Hamilton via Beciton and Barrie, and leave Toronto till his re- turn, but the fastest train services center in Toronto. Bet^ton is of interest as the center of the great honey industry of Ontario. The whole surrounding country is full of bee farms, and sweet the summer through with the scent of honey-bearing blossoms. The pedigrees of the swarms are watched with the same care that breeders of thorough- bred cattle give to their stock, and solitary islands in (Jeorgian Bay, to the north, are made use of as bee nurseries to preserve the purity of the favorite strains. The science of apiculture at Beeton has been brought to a high degree of perfection. At Barrie, on Lake Simcoe, we meet the Northern road from Toronto. Toronto. The approach to Toicmto is more effective by water than by land. As the steamer passes (iibraltar Point, she rounds into a safo and spacious harbor crowded with the traffic of the lakes. This harbor is TORONTO. 21 [ity lue. lid. Ind is formed by what is known as The Island, which is the f»reat summer pleasure-ground for the inliahitants of tlie city. The Inland is to Toronto what Coney Ishtnd and Manhattan Heach are to Xew York. It is I'eally nothing more than a great sand-bank formed by the drift and offscourings from Hcarl)(>ro' Ileiglits, and its shape is continually changing. The lighthouse on Gibraltar Point, built within a few feet of the water, stands now some distance iidand. A few years ago the Island was connected with the mainland by a strip of beach to the east, but storms having broached the isthmus at Ashbridge's Hay, a narrow channel was formed which has since boon widening. The Isl- and is fringed with lightly-built summer cottages whose thresholds are ceaselessly invaded by the sand drift. All summer the white beaches swarm with merry life and the shallow pools with bathers. High over the cottages and the willow thickets tower the gables of a great stmmier hotel, which was built by Hanlon, the ex-champion oarsman of the world. The hotel is surrounded with dancing pavilions and roller- coasters and merry-go-rounds, and bands i)lay in front of it through the summer evenings. Between the island and the city pass and re- pass the unremitting ferries. Toronto, the "Queen City," as we Canadians fondly call her, slopes very gently fi-om the lake's edge back to the wooded line of the Daven- port Hills. The almost level expanse of her sea of roofs is broken with many spires and with the green crowns of iimunjerable elms and horse-chestnuts. All through her temperate summers her streets are deliciously shadowed ; all through her mild winters the sunlight streams in freely through the naked branches. From the Don's mouth on the E. to the Ilumber on the W., a 0(i inhabitants. In the War of 1812 Toronto was twice captured by the Americans, who destroyed the fortifications and sacke by Captain Drew, R. N., one of McNab's couimand. The insurgents hfi'' ruade use of a vess'^1, the Caroline, in carrying sup- plies from ti Aint'iican shore to Navy Island. The vessel lay moored for the night under the very guns of Fort Schlosser ; indeed, the shadows of the fort enveloped the Caroline. With 7 boats, carrying some 60 men in all, who were armed with pistols, cutlasses, and pikes, the captain boarded the ill-fated vessel, captured her, but not being able, on accoimt of the curveni, to bring her to the Canadian side, sent her flaming over the > iiigai' i i'iiils. Tlie vessel proved to be an American bottom, and so Britaia ' : ' .'^;np( iled to disavow the seizure, but noth- ing could blot out the bra.vM-y of the deed." TIIF. 101 ON're h niE PRESENT. Hotels, etc. — The Quccu^; IfoLi (.-.i to |1), in Front St.; the liosNtH Home (|3 to |4) and the Palmer Iloii'^e {^'l), cor. King and York Sts. ; Walker Home (;^2 and $2.50), Front and York Sts. ; the Arl'mejlo)!. ($2 to |5:{), King and John St». ; and the Revere Hov^se. in King St. Horse-cars (fare, 5c.) render all parts of the city easily accessible. Cab rates are $1 an hour. From depot or Niagara steam- er's dock to hotel, 25c. The chief clubs are the National, Toronto, and Albany Clubs ; also the Victoria, (Jranite, Athentcum, Press, and the various political clubs. Theatres: (Jrand Opera-House, Shaftes- bury Hall, Academy of Music, Jacobs & Sparrow's Opera-IIouse, Horticultural (Jardens, and Robinson's Musee. The Toronto of the present offers many attractions to the visitor. It is the best possible place to pause and lay one's plans. It may fairly claim to be called the intellectual center of the Dominion. Filled with a homogeneous and successful population, looking back upon a past of wonderful achievement, and forward to a future bright with all pos- sibilities, it is instinct with the sanguine and self-reliant spirit of this young Canadian people. Its hotels are of the best ; its open water- front and quiet harbor offer every facility for boating, canoeing, and yachting. There is charnung scenery in the immediate neighborhood, and within easy reach are the gigantic maskinonge and swarming trout and black bass of the wild Muskoka waters. The principal street of Toronto, as it was of the original village, is y \ TORONTO. 25 1/ / King St., running E. and W. between the Don and the Huinber. Where now stands the old jail were erected the first Houses of Parlia- ment of Upper Canada. These were wooden buildings and of no great architectural distinction. During the War of 1812 they were burned with the Library and the provincial records, by the An>erican invaders. This injury was avenged a few months later, when a Brit- ish force destroyed the public buildings at Washington. Opposite the spot where now towers the noble structure of St. James's Cathedral was once the market-place. Here stood the stocks and pillory, which were in use up to 1884. Either the men of Toronto were less gallant in those days, or her womon less deserving, for we find in the town rec- ords that one Elizabeth Ellis, convicted of being a public nuisance, was condemned to stand in the pillory for two hours at a time on two suc- cessive market-days. The women of Toronto are still held up to the gaze of the world, but it is for the world's admiration, as they display some of the most attractive types of (.'anadian beauty. Next in im- portance to King St. is Yoiigc, which runs at right angles to it. If we may accept the authority of George Augustus Sala, this is the longest street in the world. It runs N. from the water's edge, and was laid out in 1798, to be used as a portage to the upper lakes. The object of this was to avoid the necessity of ascending Lake Erie and passing under the guns of the American fort at Detroit. For the first 4<) mjles of its extent Yonge St. became the main artery of the province, and was speedily lined with homesteads. Apropos of the " magnificent distances " of this thoroughfare the following anecdote may be cpioted from an entertaining and valuable work by Dr. Scad- ding, entitled " Toronto of Old": A story is told of a tourist, newly arrived at York, wishing to utilize a stroll before breakfast by making out as he went along the whereabouts of a gentleman to whom he had a letter. Passing down the hall of his hotel he asked, in a casual way of the book-keeper, " Can you tell me where Mr. So-and-so lives ? " (leisurely producing the note from his breast pocket) ; " it is somewhere along Yonge St. here in town." " Oh, yes," was the reply, when the address had been glanced at, " Mr. So-and-so lives on Yonge St., about 25 miles up ! " At the corner of King and Yonge Sts. throbs the heart of the city.* * This is the most convenient point from which to calculate dis- tances when arranging for drives through the suburbs. The following 2(; TORONTO. i I t ' From Kin^ St. northwiud to the city limits Yonge St. is lined with fine retail establishments. From King St. S. to the water it is built up with massive warehouses. This applies e(pially to Front St., which skirts the harbor. At the water front of Yongc stands the Custom- Ilouse, a piece of elaborately decorated Italian architecture. Between Front St. and the water to the W. of Yonge lies a low flat known as the Ksplanade. Here the various converfiinjr railways enter the city, and here at the foot of York St., where in 1851 the Countess of Elgin turned the first sod of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron R.R., stands the Union Stati(m. The interest of Front St. may be said to terminate at the old Parliament Buildings, soon to give place to the splendid structures which are being erected in Queen's Park. Toronto is a city of churches, there being over 120 churches and cha[)els within its bor- ders. This being the case, it goes without saying that Sunday is relig- iously observed as a day of rest. Except when the churches .are draw- ing in or pouring forth their demurely pacing throngs, the city seems asleep; and from seven o'clock on Saturday evening until a seemly hour on Monday morning no one c:in gain admittance to the bar-rooms —except by the back door ! A little E. of the corner of Yonge is St. James's Cathedral, at the junction of King and rimrch Sts. This building is of simple and noble design, in what is known as perpendic- ular Gothic. Its spire, soaring to a height of 316 ft., is with one excep- tion the loftiest on the continent ; the newly completed spires of St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York roach the height of 328 ft. Within the tower of St. James's Cathedral is an excpiisite chime of bells, and all Toronto prides itself on the celebrated clock of St. James's, which table of ways and distances I take from Mr. Barlow Cumberland's use- ful handbook to "The Northern Lakes of Canada." : Disfanccti out and back from Corner of King and Yotir/e Streets. East. — The Lake Shore Boad, Woodbine, Ben Lomond, Don and Danforth Road, and the Necro[)olis — 8A miles. NoRTHKAST. — Nccropolis, Todmorden, Don Valley, Eglington, Mount Pleasant — OA miles. NouTH. — Queen's Park, Deer Park, Ridge Road, St. Albans St., St. George St. — 6 miles. NoRTHWE.ST. — College St., Bloor St., Slattery's High Park, Queen St., and Subway — SA miles. West. — King St., Lake Shore Road, Humber Bay and back — 9 miles. TORONTO. 27 won the first prize at the Vienna Exhibition. The interior of the cathe- dral contains inonunients to Home of the distinjruished sons of Ontario, and to that strong old ecclesiastic, Hishop Strachan, than wiioni few pas- tors have been better able to rule their flocks. The chancel windows are fine examples of the best stained-glass work of Munich. St. JamesV Cathedral is the fourth church which has occupied the |>resent site, fire having removed its three predecessors. From the tower a magnificent view may be had of Toronto and her surroundings. Some important buildings in the neigldmrhood of St. James's Ca- thedral are the St. Lawrence Hall and Market, the old City Hall, the ad- mirably managed Public Library, at the corner of Adelaide and Church Sis., and the Post-Olfice, on Adelaide at the head of Toronto St. This short thoroughfare is the Wall St. of Toronto. A little to the W. of the Post-Offlce is the Grand Opera-House, on wiiosc spacious stage have moved the most brilliant modern actors. This theatre has a seat- ijig capacity of 2,'MH}. Moving westward along King St., we come to a stately piece of Nor- man architecture, the Presbyterian Church of St. Andrew's, at the corner of King and Simcoc. Opposite St. Andrew's is Government House, a handsome building of modern French design. TliC nuiin en ti'ance is on Simcoe St., under a spacious and elaborate carriage porch. The gardens arc broad and well kei)t, and the little valley winding through them was once Russell's Creek, up which (iovernor Simcoe used to row when the infant capital was but a lake-side clearing. The dining-room at (xovernment House contains a fine collection of por- traits. Permission to view the interior must be obtained from the A. D. C. Just beyond Government House, in the midst of ample grounds, is Upper Canada College ; and close by is John St., at the head of which is the fine old colonial mansion of The Grange, the hoine of Goldwin Sinith. On the carriage-way of the (irange estate, some threescore years ago, tradition hath it that the owner's horses were attacked by bears as they were being driven up to the doorway. Continuing along King St. to the Central Prison, one may turn S. again to the water and visit the old and new forts, parade-ground, and well- kept exhibition-grounds with their Crystal Palace. Still moving W., we pass through Parkdale, where stand the Home for Incurables and the Mercer Reformatory ; and we end our wanderings in this direction among the picnic-grounds of High Park on the Huml)er. If we return by way of Queen St., we pass the Provincial Lunatic • I' I ' 28 TORONTO. Asylum and the graceful huildinga of Trinity University in their ample and park-like grounds. Trinity is a Church of England institu- tion, and was founded by the indomitable IMshop Strachan when old King's College of Upper Canada was seeuJarizcd and became the Uni- versity of Toronto. Trinity University is a piece of sound and excel- lent architecture, of the period known as Pointed English, and is built of white brick dressed with gray stone. On Queen St., between Yonge and College Ave., is Osgootle Hall, the seat of the Superior Coiu'ts of the T'rovinee, of the Law Society, and the Law School. The building is named after tlu* first Chief- Justice of Upper Canada, and cost ^800,000. The exterior has an air of solid magnificence. The interior is of unusual beauty, and contains a library of o(),«M)0 volumes. Of Osgoode Hall Anthony Trollope said, in his work on North America, that it was to Upper Canada what the Four Courts of Dublin are to Ireland, aud that the comparison would residt to the advantage of the Canadian edifice. College Ave. is a bi'oad boulevard runinng N. from Queen St. to Queen's Parit, Toronto's chief pleasure-grcuuid. This avenue is 120 feet wide and a mile in length, and shaded by unbroken lines of elm and horse-chestnut. It enters the park under the muzzles of a battery of Russian cannim, spoils of Sebastojjol. Turning to the left the carriage-way skirts the edge of a ravine and passes the Volunteers' Monument, erected to the mentory of Canadians who fell in the Fenian raid of 1800. Opposite stands the bronze statue of the Hon. (Jcorge lirown, one of the chief statesmen of Canada, and founder of the To- ronto Globe. This statue is a fine piece of sculpture, and was done by Burch, of London. Queen's Park is a [)ortion of the estate of Toronto University, and was handed over to the city on a perpetual lease. The university grounds and buildings adjoin the park on the W. The buildings were destroyed by fire a short time ago, and the loss was one of the most serious that the city has ever sustained. It is not too much to say that the main building was the finest piece of college architecture in the New World. In design it belonged to the Norman period, and the square central tower was of peculiarly noble and satis- fying proportions. In Convocation Hall was a fine stained-glass win- dow of three lights, in memory of the students who fell in defend- ing the frontier in 1866. The deep carved porch was famous for its solidity and richness. The buildings, however, have been com- pletely restored, and fully equal in all respects the original buildings. TORONTO. 29 At'ioss the lawn stands the Ohseivutory, the home of the meteorolopi- cal (lepartment ol" tho Dominion, connnonly known as " Old I'robabili- tiort." Alongside of the Observatory stands a distressingly crmle struet- ure of red brick, the eyesore of the lovely neighborhood. This is the School of Technohtgy. At the head of the park is a fine structure of brown Credit V^alley stone, faced with red brick. This is McMastei Hull, of iMcMaster University, and was presented to the IJuptist denomination by the late Senator McMaster. A little \\\ of McMaster Hall stands the gray-stone pile of Knox College, belonging to the Pres- byterian Church ; and in the immediate neighborhood stands Victoria Tniversity, of the Methodist Church. Though the growth of Toronto is chiefly toward the west and north, the handsomest residences are probably east of Yonge, on Jarvis and Sherbourne Sts., and on various cross-streets connecting them. On the corner of Gerard and Sherbourne art the Horticultural Gardens, which were opened by the Prince of Wales in 1860. They occupy a square of 10 acres, and were presented to the city by the Hon. George Allan. Entrance to the grounds is free between the hours of 8 a. m. and C p. M. On the west side of the gardens, close to Church St., stand the Pavilion Music Hall and the Conservatories. The Pavilion has seating accommodation for .'J,000 people, and some of the best musi- cal talent of the continent appears upon its stage. The annual festi- vals of the Philharmonic and Choral Societies are hehl therein. A short distance down Church St. is the great iUetropolitan Church of the Methodists. Its organ is the largest in Canada and one of the finest in the world, containing as it does 3,315 pipes and 63 stops. The famous organ of Strasburg Cathedral has 46, and that of Westmin- ster Abbey 32. Near the Metropolitan Church stands St. Michael's Cathedral, the seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop. On Church St. also is the Normal School, with the offices of the Depart- ment of Education. The buildings occupy the center of an open scpiare, covering 7 or 8 acres. The gardens are attractive and of special interest to the student. The Normal School contains a fine gallery of [)aintings and statues, where the visitor will find many valu- able originals and reproductions of most of the masterpieces of ancient art. Entrance to the art galleries of the Normal School is free on week- dayd from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Tourists who are interested in art will do well to visit the exhibition-rooms of the Ontario Society of Artists, H King St., West. Whatever they may be interested in, they will do 1^0 TIIK MUSKOKA IHSTKICT. n 1 iii W(>ll to visit tliu lovely and aristocnttie KultiirW of IIosimIiiIc ; and tliey will do well to pay this visit at a time when (*anada\s national <;anie it4 Itfinu idavi'd at the lloscdalo LarroHrtL' (Jrounds. Lai-rosst' is a ''aiiie lacking most of the defi'Ots of foot-liall, but posse-'sing all the i)re-enii- neiit merits of that most manly sport. Toronto has produecd some of the most skillfid Lacrosse players of Canada — that Is to say, of the world ; and Toronto l)oys, one mi^ht almost say, are horn with a " stick " in their hands. The Toronto liase-liall (irounds are situated on Kings- ton Koad. The Muskoka DiNtrict. The best sidt'-trip to be taken fron» Toronto is that to the lake country of Muskoka lyinj; N, of Toronto, betwei'n (Jeor^'ian Hay and the Ottawa IMver. Fares are as follows: Tonuito to Mcaumaris and return, )8;r).3(> ; I't. Cockburn and return, $().r)(» ; Jtousseau and re- turn, p'}.1t^t ; Wagnetawan and return, ^7.9o ; Hurk's Falls and re- turn, $0.95. A (piarter of a century ago this region was a total wil- derness ; but now its tangle of lakes and streams is dotted with villages and summer hotels. Railroads traverse it as far X. as Lake Nipissing, and steamboats ply up miles in length down to as many rods. All are clear, deep, and cool, and swarm with brook trout, lake trout, Idack bass, and perch ; while the covers and reed beds abound with feathered game, and deer are fairly numerous. In some cf these northern waters nuiy be taken that fish of uumy tiliuNcn, the *' Tiger of the Lakes," the gigantic nuiskinonge, or musealongc. The Muskoka district proper lies to the N. of the high divide at (Jravenhurst, and comprises a territory about the size of Belgium. Within this area lie something over 800 lakes. The district south of (Jravenhurst is long settled, but contains some excellent fishing and shooting grounds, about the lovely waters of Lakes Simcoc, Sparrow, and Couchiching. Taking the Nortliern and Northwestern R. R., now a portion of the Grand Trunk system, we skirt the city to the W. and turn N. to the wuter-shed, where streams diverge toward Lake Huron. Emerging from the hills the train winds through the pleasant vale of Aurora, with its sweet old-country landscapes. Passing the little country town of Newmarket, we catch a glimpse of the infant stream of Holland River, which was of old the path of Indians and voijageiirs who had just made the portage from Toronto. By Holland River also came the TIIK MirHKOKA IHSTKUrr. ;^i war pui'tii'.M of tlie Inxiuois to slaiif^liliM- tlit> IIui'oiisoii Luke Siriii-oe and (ieor^ian iiay. The drowsy villap;i' of Holland ffjaiidiiiK was oiici' a busy mart, wlicii, l)ofort> tlio days of f:iilroadiii,r) last census; hotel, Queen's, $1.50) is a charming Slimmer resort, vith good fishing streams in the neighborhood and innumerable boats and yachts. Nine miles down Kempenfeldt Bay is a great summer hotel at Big Bay Point. Joined to Lake Simcoe by a channel called the Narrows lies the breezy water of Lake Coucliichiug, which, being interpreted, is the " Lake of Many Winds." At the head of the lake is the pretty town of Orillia (hotels, Orillia House and Russell House, $1.50), with its beautiful pleasure grounds of Couchichiiig Park. This is the highest region in Ontario, being 750 ft. above Toronto. The air here is very clear and pure, and the waters of the lake are excellently stocked with black bass, pickerel, and salmon-trout. At Rama, on this lake, is a settlement of Ojibway Lidians, the last remnants of the once pow- erful tribe that peopled the shores of Lakes Simcoe and Couchi- ching to the number of at least 25,000. At Orillia the tourist may, if he prefers, take the steamer 14 miles down the lake, and rejoin the train at Washago. Here begins the splendid fishing stream of the Severn, which runs through deer, duck, and grouse grounds, through wild rapids, and over Severn Falls, and drains the whole 32 THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT. ' ii Siincoe region into Georgian Bay. A short distance below Washago the Severn widens out into Sparrow Lake, famous for its maskinonge and black bass, and its duck and grouse shooting. A good canoe trip, for which Indians and canoes may be hired at Rama, is that from Couchiching to Gravtmhurst, with short portages, through Beaver, Legs, and Pine Lakes. A more exciting trip, through some sharp and intricate rapids, is down the Severn River to its outlet. Guide and canoe may be ol)taine(l at Rama or Orillia, at a cost of about $2 a day. Crossing the river by a lofty bridge, the railroad forsakes the pale limestone formations of the Sinicoe region and enters a land of red granite. Hither and thither amid the high and glistening bhiffs of the "divide" winds the train, till at last through Granite Notch it emerges \ipon the highlands of JIuskoka. At the southernmost ex- tremity rf Lake Muskoka, the largest of the series, stands the busy town of Graveiihurst, 115 miles from Toronto. Gravenhurst is very picturesquely situated on the high shores of an inlet. It has a population of about 2,000, and good hotels, the Albion, Windsor, and Grand Central, at $1 to $2, From this point, which may be re- garded as the gateway of the Muskoka region, the tourist may con- tinue N. by rail via Bracobridge, the Muskoka River, Mary, Fairy, and Vernon Lakes, to Callander and the Canadian Pacific R. R. at Lake Nipissing ; or he may lake the steamers of the Muskoka Navi- gation Co., through Lakes Muskoka, Rosseau, and Joseph, and the Miiskosh River. A side excursicm up the S. branch of the Muskoka River to the Lake of Bays will enable the tourist to visit a lake which rejoices in the title of Kahweambctcwaganiog. From Muskoka wharf the steamers go to Bala, Bracebridge, Beau- maris, Port Carling, Windermere, Rosseau, Rosseau Falls, Port Sand- field, Craigielea, Port Coburn, Juddhaven, and several other villages, all of which are full of attraction for sportsman and tourist. One of the loveliest of these is Beaumaris, which has a large and excellent hotel situated on Tondern Island. Inmicdiately opposite is a group of small islands called the " Kettles," where may be found the best bass fishing and fine trolling for salmon-trout. In the neighborhood of Brace- bridge, the chief town of the Muskoka district, are the lovely cataracts known as High Falls and the Great South Falls. The most central town on the lakes is Port Carling, where all the steamboat routo? converge, and where Lakes Muskoka and Rosseau are connected by locks. Lake Rosseau has an extreme length of 14 miles, and presents a THE MU8KOKA DISTRICT. 33 great variety of charming landscape. In its southern portion it is set thick with the loveliest of islands. As many of these islands are inhabited, and the dwellers thereon may be said to spend the most of their time in boats, that section of the lake carries the appellation of Venetia. Into the bay near Port Kosseau flows the mystic and incom- parable Shadow River, on whose flawless surface one floats as if suspended midway between two lovely worlds of summer foliage. On a small stream stealing into Shadow Kiver resounds the clear tinkling of the Bridal-Veil Falls. A conspicuous landmark on Lake Rosseau is the headland of Eagle's Nest. The third of tiie series of the Muskoka Lakes, Lake Joseph, was till very lately almost unknown. Now it is coming into repute as possessing a bolder beauty than its fellows. Most tourists will probably decide that the difl'erence is le&s of degree than of kind, for it would be hard to say which of the throe waters is the fairest. An advantage afforded by all alike is that the tourist here may " rough it" charmingly in tent and canoe, or, if he so prefer, enjoy all the conveniences of civilized life in well-kept but unostentatious inns. The traveler who wishes to visit the Ma^anetawan waters and Parry Sound will follow the railroad north to IJurks Falls and there take the steamer VVenona down the Maganetawan through Se Seebe, Ah Mic, and Wahwaskeah Lakes to Hyng Inlet at the mouth, and thence down the coast of Georgian Bay through Parry Sound and the Archipelago to historic Penetanguishene, whore under the waters of the harbor lie the remains of four liritish gunboats. Here is one of the finest summer resorts and hotels in Canada — '■'■ The Penetanguishene^ The first settlement of the Jesuits in Ontario was established in 1684 at Penetanguishene, then called Ihonatiria, and in commemoration of this the Jesuits have built there one of the finest ecclesiastical structures on the continent. Of the almost virgin waters of the Maganetawan, which one traverses on this trip, a writer in Forest and Farm speaks as follows : *' If a man can stand outdoor life and live on venison, trout, bass, partridges, ducks, pork, tea, and crackers, there is no better place to go to in America that is as accessible. A man can go there in July, August, September, or October, with comfort, if lie will go in the right way, and shoot deer and catch trout to his heart's content. June to August for trout; after that for deer. Remember the Maganetawan is as large as the Schuylkill at Philadelphia or considerably wider or deeper than the Harlem at High Bridge, and that the trout have an unlimited range and are seldom disturbed, so that they have a chance to grow. Deer can be bagged in great numbers if you choose to do so. With a 3 34 THE MUSKOKA DI8TKICT. 1:1 : ' -' couple of good hounds magnificent sport could be had in the fall. I have shot partridges with my rifle from the canoe while traveling, as they were strutting on the shore, and their drumming was one of the pleasantest every-day sounds. Do not try to go without some guide. There are men who know the country, and they should be secured, for if you get in there alone you will have little sport and much trouble." Between Parry Sound and the mouth of Moon River lie the desert waters of Crane and Blackstone Lakes, favorite haunts of the maski- nonge. The capture of this splendid fish in these lakes is thus de- scribed by a writer in the Toledo Post : " The shores of Crane and Blackstone Lakes are capital specimens of the primitive wilderness, and long may they so continue ! The few who have visited their teeming waters have mostly been genuine fish- ermen who are happiest when far away from conventionalities and habitations. But one clearing broke the majestic sweep of the grand old forests, within the sheltered bays the loons laughed undisturbed, and the wild birds splashed in the marshy edges or upon the sandy shores with none to molest or make them afraid. " We were out for maskinonge, and took no account of either black bass or pickerel, it seems strange to talk of shaking off black bass and making disrespectful remarks about these gamy gentry when they insisted in taking the hook, but they were so plenty as to be really troublesome. " When an angler goes forth to catch the maskinonge it is necessary to be careful lest the maskinonge should catch him. The native method of taking the maskinonge in the primeval waters of Canada is by a small clothes-line, hauled in by main strength when the fish bites ; but we proposed to troll, as should an angler, with the rod. Ours were split bamboo rods 9^ ft. long, quadruplex reel, and braided linen line, 2 ft. of medium-sized copper wire, a No. 4 spoon with double hooks, and finally a good gaff. " Our guide, as we started over to Crane Lake the first morning, indulged in sundry smiles and remarked that we should break our rods, so that, although placid in outward mien, I felt inwardly a little nerv- ous ; but I diiln't mean to back down until compelled. " Swinging around a little point, with some 20 yards of line astern, before fishing a great while I felt a sudden movement at the spoon that was more like a crunch than a bite. It took only a second to give the rod a turn that fixed the hooks, and another second to discover that I had hung something. Scarcely had I tightened the line when the fish started. I do not know that I wanted to stop him, but I felt the line slip rapidly from the reel as though attached to a submarine torpedo. The first run was a long one, but the line was longer, and the fish stopped before the reel was bare. This was my opportunity, and I had the boatman swing his craft across the course, and, reeling in the slack line, I turned his head toward the deeper water. Forty-five THE MUSKOKA DISTRICT. 35 minutes of as pretty a fight as one could wish to see left my new acquaintance alongside the boat, and before he recovered his surprise the gaff was in his gills and the boatman lifted him on board. " He weighed 14 pounds on the steelyards, and was my heaviest fish. There were other encounters of a similar character, but none quite so protracted ; but I wouldn't be afraid of the largest veteran in the lake ; and all fishermen, who aim for sport, will assuredly troll with the rod. Our time was limited, far too short ; and, in a word, a day and a half on Crane Lake gave us, without counting bass, ten maski- nonge, whose weight aggregated 110 pounds (on the scales), an average weight of 11 pounds per fish." From Toronto eastward. From Toronto to Ottawa and Montreal one has a liberal choice of routes. One may take the C. P. R. R., by way of Peterboro and Smith's Falls to Ottawa, and thence to Montreal (fare, $10). This is the most direct route between Montreal and Ottawa, but it runs through a somewhat less interesting and newer country than that traversed by the Grand Trunk Ry., which skirts the lake and the St. Lawrence all the way from Toronto to Montreal (fare, |llO). The route we would recommend, however, is that by water, by the boats of the Ontario and Richelieu Navigation Company, which trav- erse almost the whole length of Lake Ontario, the fairy landscapes of the Thousand Islands, and the famed St. Lawrence rapids (fare, !^10, meals and berths extra). Arrived at Montreal the tourist may go to Ottawa by either of the railroads which connect the cities, the Cana dian Pacific and the Canada Atlantic, and return by boat down the Ottawa River. The tourist who elects to go to Ottawa by the C. P. R. R. will travel by one of the best-equipped and most reliable railroads in the world He may take the train at the Union Station, or drive across the city to the North Toronto Depot. The first town of importance after leaving Toronto is Peterboro on the Otonabee River, a thriving city of about 9,000 inhabitants. This is the birthplaou of the famous " Peterboro " or " Rice Lake " canoe ; and the tourist who loves fishing and canoeing will do well to linger at this point. The shores of Rice Lake have been made illustrious by the residence of three of those Stricklands whose names are so well known in the world of letters — Colonel Strickland, and his sisters, Mrs. Moodie and Mrs. Traill. The country about is a tangle of lakes and water-ways, a fisherman's paradise, and it all lies at the feet of the skillful canoeist. Railway lines center at 30 FROM TORONTO EA811VARD. Peterboro from half a dozen directions, and the Otonabee affords an immense water-power which is utilized by many mills and factories. Among the manufactures of the city are lumber, flour, cloth, agricult- ural implements, machinery and engines, pottery, and leather. The river is spanned by six bridges, and the public buildings arc numerous and handsome. The best hotels are the Oriental, Snowdon House, and Grand Central. For 100 miles, between Peterboro and Perth, the road runs through a broken country rich in iron, phosphate, asbestos, and other yiiluable minerals. At the town of Tweed we cross the Moira River, whose waters are freighted with logs from the lumber regions. At Sharbot Lake, a famous resort for sportsmen, the Kingston and Pembroke R. R. is crossed. Perth, with a population of 4,000, is a prosperous milling town, with rich quarries of building-stone and phosphates in the vicin- ity. Twelve miles beyond Perth is Smith's Falls on the Rideau River, a junction town with population of between 2,000 and 3,000. Here the main line between Toronto and Montreal is crossed by the line of the Ottawa and Brockville division, whose cars we take at this point. Thir- teen miles farther on, at Carleton Place Junction, we first strike the main transcontinental line of the C. P. R. R. From Carleton Place to Ottawa is a distance of 28 miles. Before entering the city the road follows the S. bank of the mighty Ottawa River, and the trav- eler may look down from the car windows upon vast stretches of logs which, enchained in the long circuits of the "booms," almost hide the water. The Grand Trunk Ry. between Toronto and Montreal is set thick with towns and cities from start to finish, and gives one a good idea of the general prosperity of Canada. About 23 miles from Toronto the road skirts a lovely landlocked mere, on which of old stood a village of the Senecas. The entrance to this unrufflod water was so concealed by a growth of flags and rushes that none knew of its existence save the dwellers on its banks, who called their village by the name of Gandatsetiagon. Here now stands tin. town of Pickering, the shel- tered mere has become Pickering Harbor, and the reed-grown entrance has been widened and deepened to admit the traffic of the lake. In the neighborhood of Pickering are some fair pike and black-bass waters. Just beyond Pickering is Whitby, the seat of the Ontario Ladies' Col- lege, whence a branch line runs north, psist the town of Lindsay, to its terminus at Haliburton. Haliburton stands in the midst of an admi- FROM TORONTO EASTWARD. 37 rable hunting and fishing region. The lakes and streams around the town are well stocked with brook trout and salmon trout, which take the fly freely from the middle of May to the end of June. Within easy reach of Haliburton the hunter will find deer, bear, moose, and par- tridge fairly abundant, and guides with dogs may be hired in the neigh- borhood. About 4 miles west of Whitby is the busy manufacturing town of Oshawa, with good fall duck-shooting in the neighborhood. Here, in old days, was the beginning of the portage from Ontario to Scugog Lake ; and the name Oshawa simply means the carrying-place. " The map of Lake Ontario has, within historic memory, been over- written with five series of names and settlements — those of the Huron- Algonquin era, those of the Iroquois domination, those of the French occupation, those of the Mississaga or Ojibway conquest, and those of the Englisli occupation. Of the IIuron-Algonquin period but slight trace survives on Lake Ontario beyond the name of the lake itself. After alternate fanfares an the drifting snow which en- tangles the sand and cariies it forward. On the hottest day snow may be foimd a short distance down, as we proved by repeated trials at vari- ous points of the banks. Historically, too, Big Sandy Hay is most interesting. It' was on the cove within, now called West Lake, that in 1668 the Rente Mission was established." About 22 miles E. of Belleville, on the (Irand Trunk, is the ancient town of Napanee. The name is derived from the Missi.ssaga word Nau-pau-nay, which signifies " flour." As brcad-stufl's are fie staple of Napanee's trade, the name is highly appropriate. The town is situ- ated on a strange river, whose deep and somber waters are swayed by a mysterious tide every two hours. This tide represents a variation of 16 inches in mean level, and sometimes attains a fluctuation of 30 inches. Kingston. Poptdation, 25,000. The chief hotels of Kingston are The Hotel Frontenac, |2 and p ; British- Amrricaii, |«2 and $3; City Hotel, %\M and f 2 ; and Anglo-American. Livery charges, $2.50 per day for single horse and carriage. Hacks are to be hired at usual rates. The only theatres are the public halls. The next town of importance after leaving Napanee is Kingston, which is known as the "Limestone City," standing guard at the foot of the lake where the ch.innel of the St. Lawrence begins to define itself. This gray and enduring little city, with its 25,000 inhabitants, has a beautiful and commanding situation, and its spacious harbor is fenced by islands from the storms of Lake Ontario. Where the olive waters of the Cataraqui flow into the blue expanse of the bay came Frontenac, greatest of the Governors of New France, to establish a fort and trading post on what he considered "one of the 1 > KINGSTON. 41 k^ I most beautiful and ugreeable harbors in the world." Frontenac pitched his tents where now stand the Tete du Pout Harracks, commanding the mouth of the Cataraqui. This was in July of 1673. The cominund of the fort, which speedily rose under the energetic directions of Fronte- nac, was assigned to the illustrious Robert Cavalier de la Salle. The settlement grew speedily in wealth and importance, till La Salle de- parted to discover the route to the Gulf of Mexico, and die by the hands of a traitor in Texas. Under the next Governor, M. de Denon- ville, Fort Frontenac was the scene of an act of treachery on the part of the French toward the Indians which brought down terrible vengeance upon New France. A number of Iroquois chiefs, under pretext of a conference, were enticed into the fort, where they were loaded with chains and then sent to France to wear out their lives in the galleys. The retort of the Iroquois was the harrying of the French settlement, the capture and destruction of Fort Frontenac, and the midnight massacre of Lachine. When the weakness and treachery of De Denonville had brought New France to these straits, Frontenac came back and saved the colony, and rebuilt his favorite fort; and fifty years of peace began their brooding over the mouth of the Cata- raqui. The fort was captured by Colonel Bradstreet in 1758. There- after the place fell into forget fulness, from which it did not emerge till the end of the Revolutionary War, when a party of United Empire Loyalists chose the fair site for a settlement, and in their zeal Cata- raqui became Kingstown, afterward shortened to Kingston, When the War of 1812 broke out, Kingston came into prominence as the strong- est Canadian post on the lake, the chief rival to the American str(mg- hold of Sackett's Harbor. Fort Henry was commenced, and a for- midable battle-ship, the St. Lawrence, was built in the Kingston Dock- yard. So hard was it for the mother-country to realize that any good thing could come out of a colony, that this ship was built, at a cost of £500,000, with timbers sent out from England for the purpose. At this period the town was surrounded by a chain of block-houses connected by a picket stockade. These block-houses subsequently were supplanted by stone batteries and martello towers, which, how- ever ineffective they might be against modern artillery, nevertheless add greatly to the martial air of Kingston as seen from the water. When Upper Canada was erected into a province. Governor Simcoe was sworn into office at Kingston, and from this point were issued writs for the convening of the first Provincial Parliament, which met. 4d KINGSTON. however, as has been already stated, at Niagara. When Upper and Lower Canada were united in 1S40, Kingston was made the seat of government, and the Legislature occupied the building now employed as the City Hospital. Only for tour years, however, was Kingston suf- fered to enjoy this proud distinction ; and in 1844 the departure of the (lovcrnment and its officials left the " Limestone City " in a slough of eonimercial and social despond. Now, however, Kingston has entered anew upon an era of pros- perity. She is the outlet for the traffic of the Rideau Canal, and, which is vastly more important, for that of the Kingston and Pembroke R. R., which opens up a district of immense mineral wealth. She has become a great educational center. Here is Queen's University, which has be- come, under Principal George M. Grant, one of the most successful and well-conducted institutions of learning in Canada. Here also is the lioyal MilUary Colle(j/e, the West Point of (*anada, where the cadets get a training the efficiency of which is well recognized in sister colonies and in the mother-country. Kingston is also the seat of the Royal College of Physicians and Surgeons, and of the Women's Medical College, both of which are affiliated with Queen's University. The buildings of "Queen's" are the chief architectural ornament of Kings- ton. The individuality of Kingston is thus effectively described by a distinguished Canadian writer : " Still Kingston contains a military look, not unpleasing to the tour- ist's eye. There is the fort crowning the glacis. Full in front, a round tower covers the landing. At its base, a semicircular bastion pierced for artillery is ready to sweep the water. The embrasures of the fort look askance at the foundries and the enginery on the opposite side of the harbor. The cannon confronts the locomotive; and, fit emblem of our time, a solitary warder guards the decaying fort, while in the locomotive-shops between 400 and 500 skilled workmen are employed. The tower, with its conical red cap and circling wall of compact ball-proof masonry, looks well. It would have scared the Iroquois. It could have defied the raiders of 1812. Against modern artillery it is as good as an arquebtisc. Hard by is the Military Col- lege, with its 100 or 120 red-coated, white-helmeted cadets. Where the olive-green of Cataraqui Creek blends with the blue of the bay, still stand the old naval barracks, where Tom Bowling and Ned Hunting were wont to toast ' sweethearts and wives.' A little up the creek is Barriefield Common, once gay with the pomp and circumstance of glorious war, but now seldom marched over by anything more militant than the villagers' geese. From the common a causeway, nearly half a mile long, extends across the creek to the Tele du Pont Barracks, KINGSTON. 43 the head(iuartcrs alternately of the very elllcient A and B Batteries. Thanks to the gentlemen cadets and hattery-nien, the Htreetn of King- ston still have a sprinkling of red, white, and blue." Six miles up the placid windings of the Cataraqui stream we enter a deep gorge, whose rocky banks, almost overhanging, are richly clothed with vines. Here we meet the foamy rush of a little cascade; and here is the entrance to the Kideau Canal, whose sedgy waters, the haunt of innumerable mallard and teal, afford the canoeist an en- chanting path through the Rideau Lakes to Ottawa. The tourist who is not in an inordinate hurry to reach Montreal will take the steamer at Kingst(m if he has come thus far by rail ; for the river trip between Kingston and the commercial metropolis of Canada is one of the most attractive on the continent. As the steamer rounds Fort Hill, and passes (Jedar Island, we find ourselves fairly in the channel of the St. Lawrence, at this point about 14 miles iu width. If one wishes to "do" the Thousand Islands thoroughly, it is best to stop off at the village of Gananocpie, around whose shores the islands appear to swarm. The name (ianano(iue signifies " rocks in deep water." The town stands on a small river of the same name, is well supplied with hotels, and has good maskinonge and black-bass fishing in its neighborhood. The Thousand Islands. The Thousand Islands are really many more than a thousand in number, there being about 1,800 of them large and small, in a stretch of about 40 miles. The Indians call the region Manatoana — " the Gar- den of the Great Spirit." The islands are all of that formation which the geologists call gray gneiss. Through the innumerable labyrinths that divide them the current of the great river flows with varying rapidity. In some of the channels it is a foaming torrent, while in others the gently- moving tide is as smooth as a summer pool. The islands present the greatest variety of effect. Some arc high and precipitous, others barely lift their heads above the lily-pads that encir- cle them. Some are as naked as if their granite frames had just come from the primeval fires ; others are top[)e(l with pine and tir, or softly rounded with the foliage of vines and shrubbery. Some are dotted with cottages, or the tents of camping parties. Several of the islets are built up with fantastic structures, pagodas, and fairy bridges, till they look as if they had just stepped off an old blue " willow-pattern " u THE THOUHANI) IHLANDH. I p plate. Hither and thither ainon^ them dart the trim craft of the eamicititH, for here it Im they most do congregate ; and in many a sUiggidh eddy or nheltered bay may be Hcen the punt of liim that lies in wait for maskinonge. Tlie landscape is like Egypt's incomparable Queen, for "age can not wither it nor custom stale its infinite vari- ety." With every change of sky anfl'MAN. Hotels. — The chief hotels of Ottawa are tlie IhissrU, WuHlsor House, and Grand Union ; rates from *2 to ^4 a day. The chibs are the Rideau, Ottawa, and West Knd. Chief restaurants : The BoJecfa, Chdmbers's, Queen's, Walker^s, Burn.s\s. Ileadinj^-rooins : 7'hc Parlht- tnentarif, Y. Af. C. A., and St. Patrick\'i Lifcrart/ and Scl'iiHp'r Sochti/. Theatre : The Grand Opera-House. IIoi se-ear,s connect the city with towns across the river (fare, 5c.). Population (estimated I, 40,000. We will suppose that the tourist has taken the direct route from Toronto to Ottawa — that by the Canadian Pacific, already described. If he has gone first to Montreal, he may go thence to Ottawa by the Canadian Pacific, the Canada Atlantic, or h;/ boat up the Ottawa River. We should advise the route uj) by rail, and the return by boat. Ottawa, the capital of the federated provinces of Canada, is in the province of Ontario, on the south shore of the Ottawa River, 126 miles from its mouth. For picturesque grandeur the cite of Ottawa is second only to that of Quebec. At this point the great river roars down into the terrific caldron of Chaudiere Falln, to whose vindictive deity the Indians of old were wont to make propitiatory offerings of tobacco. At this point also the Ottawa is joined by its tributary, the Rideau River, which flows in over a fall of wonderful grace and beauty. The shifting, curtain-like folds of this cascade give the river its name of Rideau, or the " Curtain." Like Quebec, Ottawa consists of an Upper and a Lower Town. In the double city flows a double life — the life of a rich capital and the life of a rafting and milling center — the life of that society that clusters around the government and the life of the French-Canadian himber- man. Ottawa is not only the seat of government but a hive of in- dustry as well. It is the city of laws and saws. Its Upper Town rings with the eloquence of our legislators ; its Lower with the shriek of our unremitting saw-mills. It is growing as no mere bureaucratic center can grow, and has a population of over 40,000, where, forty years ago, there were but 7,000 or 8,000 inhabitants. It is a city of deeps and 4 SJ (Jii h 1 if m wmtmmmmm 60 OTTAWA. h ;' 1'., ji heights, of sharp contrasts alike in its landscapes and its life ; and both are alike dominated by the truly splendid pile of the Parliament Build- imjSy which imperially crown the loftiest point of the city. In the days of the " old regime," when the Ottawa River was the chief path of the fur-trade, on which New France subsisted, the place of portage around the falls of the Chaudifere had not even a wigwam to mark it as the site of a future city. It was a place of horror and of lying-in-wait ; for here the Iroquois came to intercept the Algonquins of the north country, on their way to Quebec, with their canoe-loads of peltries. In 1G9;5 so closely did the Iroquois bar the stream that a three-years' gathering of beaver-skins was held up at MichUhnackinac unable to make its market ; and it took Frontenac himself, the Deus ex machina of New France, to break the dread blockade. Most of the romantic history of Old Canada, however, went by the other way, and left the difficult passes of the Ottawa unhaloed. Not till 1800 did the spot where the Rideau spills its stream attract the regard of pioneers. In that year one Philemon Wright, of Woburn, Massachusetts, led a little colony to the spot, and founded a prosperous settlement, which is now the city of Hull, on the Quebec side of the river, immediately op- posite Ottawa. The War of 1812 impelled the Imperial Government to build the Rideau Canal, for strategic purposes, and on the unpromis- ing cliifs, across the I'iver from Hull, arose the community of Bylown, named for a colotiel of the Royal Engineers, who had charge of the canal construction. The village grew and became a town ; and at length the seat of government, after having been made the shuttlecock of politicians and bandied between Niagara and Kingston and Toronto and Quebec and Montreal, was planted here by order of the Queen, and found a secure abiding-place. The Parliament Buil(liii|e:s are designed in a modified twelfth- century Gothic, and are an admirable combination of simplicity, grace, and strength. The material of which they are constructed is a cream- colored sandstone, whose richness of tone grows under the touch of time. The door and window arches are of red Potsdam san 3stone with dressings of Ohio freestone. The great central block occupies a stone terrace with broad, sloping carriage approaches, and is surmounted by a well-proportioned tower 220 ft. in height. This building stands at the back of a spacious Sfjuare, of which the eastern and western blocks form the two sides. In the central block are the two Houses of Parlia- ment, the Commons and the Senate. The side-blocks contain the c OTTAWA. 51 C offices of the various departinents. lichind the Chambers stands the beautiful building of the Parlkimmtdrtf fJhruri/, its lofty dome sup- ported by flying buttresses of admirable design. From a number of points of view the buildings "compose" in a way that gives the keenest pleasure to the eye. The fir;i\ OTTAWA TO MoNTUKAl,. b (he inoutli of tlie h'iiifnnfc, tlio outlot oC the ciu'liiuitiiip iiioiintaiii-;.'irt lake of CoiHiim/itiu. This wutor, which ttriiis with trout, is hoHt reiu'hcd by ii |>()rta^c from (/irtivilfc (the next phu'o at whii'li the stfauii'i' arrives) to the river h'oKi/c, whieh must Ik' asecnded it) eaiioen Home miles to the ('omatideaii portaj^e. Tiu' beauty of tlie neenerv will w«'ll repay the tourist who turns aside; foi- this trip. . At (Jreuville we leave the steanu-r and take the train for ('tirilhm, to avoid the ,u;reat r ipids known as the (Mr!//<»i, Iahi;/ Sunll^ and dhtiU' an liloiitlnni. These thi'ee rapids are further eireumvented by three canals, used chicHy for the frei|.'lit tralHe. Tliev were bidit I»y tlie Im|)erial (iovernment for military purposes, for which it is to be hoped they may never bi' re(piifed. That which passes the Lonj:; Sault is known as the (r'irtii'it/c Cuu<) the whole force of the Iro((Uois confederacy bent itself to the desti'uction of the French colonies of N'illemarii' and (Quebec. The doom appeared in- evitable. Ibit there were heroes of the ancient type in New France. A younf which helps furin>h the expanse of lAike St. ImhIs, while the two smalU-i (low noi i of Laval and Moatrcal Islatafs. At Si. Anne the steamer en**^- h short canal of one l<)ck to avoid a dangerous rapid. Ihrr the (irand Trunk crosses ou to Moufrca/ Island by a splendid and massive viadiM't under which the steamer passes with lowered funnel. On :•. point of the island, a little beyond, we note tlu' ruins of a castle built after a mediicval pattern as a defense against the Iroijuois. There are two such castles standing close together, with a circular tower on the hill- tops watching over their approaches. Within the high walls of the CHHtles was space enough to shelter all the women and children of the ancient M-ttlement. At the drowsv antl pictures(|ue old town of Lachun'. H.^ miles fr"ui Montreal, is the head of the canal by which the Lachhtc Hapids are avoided on the upward trip. Before tin; "anal was built, Lachiue was J I ■^ ; 1 '' ■ i Si I si V I 5« OTTAWA TO MONTREAL. a place of great coininercial imi)()rtanco ; now it is chiefly a place of siimmor residence for ciiizens of Montreal. Its steep gables and old- fasliioned dormer-windows nestle amid the green of ancient trees. All its neighborhood is histoi'ie ground, but th(! memories that cluster most thickly about it are those of the great La Salle. Its site was granted by the Sulpieiiin Fathers to La Salle that he might estal)lish there a fortilied outpost for the more effective defense of the city. La Salle named his settlement La Chine, thus embalming his dominant idea of a passage across the continent to the Indies and Cathay. La Salle soon left it to follow his adventures, but the settlement continued to flourish till the dreadful massacre of 16N9, which we referred to in our account of Kingston. The cause which led to this catastrophe has been already related ; tlie catastrophe itself has thus been described by a Canadian writer, Mr. C. V. Rogers: '' Xearly two centuries ago, on the night of August 5, 1689, as the inhabitants of Lachine lay sleeping, amid a storm of hail upon the lake, whii'li effectually disguised the noise of their lauding, a force of many hundred warriors, armed and besmeared with war paint, made a descent upon Lachine. Through the night they noiselesslv sun(»un(U'd every building in the village. With dawn the fearful war-whoop awoke men, women, and children to their doom of torture and death. The village was fired ; by its light, in the early morn, the horrt.r stricken inhabitants of Montreal could see from their fortifications the nameless cruelties wliich preeeded the massacre. It is said tlu' Iroquois indulged so freely in the tire-water of the Lachine merchants thiit, had the de- fenders of Villem;irie been prompt to seize the favorsM*' moment, the drunken wn>te]ic> might have been slauglitered like swine. I'araly/ed by the horrors tlu'y had witnessed, the French let the occasion slip. At nightfall the savages withdrew to the mainland, not, however, with- out siginl ving by veils — repcate(| t(» the number of ninety — how many prisoners they carried away. Frcmi the rampart^' of Villemarie and amid the blackened ruins of liachliu' the garrisoTi watelu'd the fires on the opposite shore, kindle. i fof wliat puri)ose.- ol nameless cruelty they knew too well. The fate of Lachine nuuks the lowest point in the fortunes of New France; by what de«-ds of heroisni they were retrieved s not the least glorious page in Canadian lustory," PROVINCE OF aUFBEC. Quebec, the senior province of the ('atuidian confederation, occu- pies the greater portion of ihe St. Lawrence Valley, it ha> an ex- treme length, E. and W., of 1,000 miles, and a great diversity of ■ liJI )/, sss isi m -1 , i ) yi . ) 1 ' 1 ft' PROVINCE OF QUKBEC. 59 scenery and resources. For a \o\v^ time it monopolized tiie name of Canada ; and for a far longer period its history was practically the whole of Canadian history, save for what was being enacted in the narrower sphere of the Acadian Peninsula. The following extremely condensed abstract of the history of the [)rovincc is taken from Dr. Stewart's article on Quebec in the Encyclopsedia Hritannica: " Quebec was lirst visited by the French, under Jaciiues ('artier, in 1535, and a second time in 15:{G, though it is said that Sebastian Cabot discovered the country in 1497. The regular settlement of the province, however, was not made until IfiOS, when Samuel de Champ- lain landed at the site now occupied by Quebec City. Here he estab- lished military and trading posts, and it was not long before the new possession became the seat of the Jesuit and Ilecollet missions, which were zealously carried on under the most trying circumstances for nearly a century and a half. The early settlers endured countless hardships from the incursions of the Indians, and the fre(pient wars iu which they were forced to engage with the English and Dutch. In lV5y the Mar((uis of M(mtcahn was defeated at Quebec by an English army under General Wolfe. A year later the French surrendered all their important posts, and the colony passed under English rule. In lli^'^ the Treaty of Paris was signed, by the terms of which, and the conditions laid down a few years later in the memorable Quebec Act of 1774, the French were guaranteed by England their laws, language, and religion. In 1791 the colony was divided into Upper and Lower Canada; but in 1841, after a series of internal dissensions, including the rebellion of 1837, and several political (jiiarrels, the country was again united. In 18()7 the provinces of Old Canada, under t'le names of Ontario and Quebec, were erected, with New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, into the Dominion of Canada." Under the indulgent protection of England, Quebec has grown and prospered, and developed a civilization unicjue in the modern world. The province is in many respects a piece of Old France. In its re- ligious homogeneity it is almost mediiival ; and along with this goes a conservatism, as far as custom and tradition are concerned, which gives the life of the hahUtint a marked individuality and local color. At the same time the I^-cnch Canadian h is grown up under the responsibility of self-government and British institutions, to which he very readily adupted himself, and which have given him a certain political alertness. Vividly conscious of his power in the confederation, he is not at all difli- v\i(\ CO J'KOVINCE OF CiUEItEC. dent in the exercise of it ; but, underlying a pood deal of self-assertive glorification of the illustiious race from which he is sprunj^', there is a sound loyalty not only to the (hii^ under whose shelter he has so fuos- pered, but also to the young federation in which he plays .so important a part. To the romancer and the student of character, the province of Quebec offers a field of iilmost unparalleled richness, which has as yet been but little worked. To the lover of outdoor sports it offers almost virgin woods and waters of unlindted possil>ilities. To the idle tourist, who is so unfortunate as not to be preoccupied by any hobby, it offeis the attra(!tion of novel scenes, unfamiliar customs, fresh experiences, and an invigorating climate. JACC^UKS ('Al{TlI<:it. No tlanic of war was* he, no llowrr of tjntcc. No star of wisdom ; l)iit a plain, bold man, More careful of the end than of the plan. No niysti'ry wax lu! afraid to face; ; No isava^e strati'ny, no furious ntonn, No stinjis of fliniatc, no niithouiilit disease, His master purpose would not bend to these, Hut saw, throiiijli all, achievement's towerinj^ form. lie first beheld the d afford easy access to principal points, t'arri iges wait at the dep«»ts and steamboat-landings, and at various stands in the city. Their charges are : (hH-horxe Vehirfc.s. — One or two persons, 15 minutes, 25 cents; 80 minute-;. 10 cents ; the first hour, 75 cents, and (50 cents for every sub- secpu'nt hour. Three or four persons, 40 cents for 15 juinutes, 60 cents for ',U) minutes; 1^1 for the first hour, and 75 cents for every subse(juent hour. MONTREAL. 01 Two-horse VcMcltK. — One or two persons, 50 cents for 15 iiiinutL's : 65 cents for ^0 minutes, and *l per hour. For three or four persons, 65 cents for 15 minutes, 75 cents for 3(» minutes, anil *i.'J5 per hour. ChiliH. — Metropolitan, on Beaver Hall Hill; and St. James, on Dorchester St. The \Vi)iil.sor Stutlon is that from which the V. P. 1{. I{. express trains leave for Toronto, Shei'l)rooke, St. John, Quebec, etc. ; and from the l)alh:>vsi( SI. Shitloii lun most of the sul)url>an trains of the same line, tofjether with the Ottawa express and the transcontinental train for Winnipeg and V^ancouver. The trains of the (J. T. |{y. all leave from thii BoiKivcH flirt I). Montreal is a microcosm of Canada. Here is the Old Canada side by side with the New ; here Fiench Canada and English Canada come into close and perpetual contact, and yet maintain their individuality. She stands between French (Quebec, 172 ndles east, an' /A O^ HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation J A «^ :\ \ iV 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 T CITY OF MOXTBEAIi SctaaofYanU r. Jj A W li, ^ ^ ;l 3i^ "-y. "^j ^ ^o 2» ^22 ?^, fe ^C-/ REFERENCE TO FIQUREt. JSTotob. 1 Windsor B 9 9 St. LawTCDco Hall D 8 6 Rtchellea E 4 6 Albion D 8 JVoMJiMirt BuUdingt. 1 Cwtom HruM E 8 8 Court Houto B 4 t> City Hall E 6 10 PMtOfAve D 3 1 1 Y. Men • Christ. Ass. D 8 1 i Bonsecoun Market E 5 M 4 Merdiants' Exchange D 8 14 Bank of Mmtreal D 4 18 MMonicHallD 4 '16 Molson's Bank D 8 17 Victoria Skating Rink B 9 18 McGlll Collece A 4 19 Mas.ofUMNal.Hirt.Soo. BS 90 GeoloKical Mnsemn E 4 91 Sem. of St. Sulpice D 4 r99 Asylum for the Blind C 5 93 Hotel Diea A 8 94 Grey Nunnery A 1 >96 Black or Conic. Nunnery 98 Nelson Monument E S ' 97 Victoria Square D 3 f 98 Champ de Mara E 6 Ckurchet. 99 Notre-Dame E 4 . 80 Cathedral of St. Peter B 3 81 Christ Ch. Cathedral B 4 89 St. James D 6 83 St. Patrick's C 3 84 Church of the Gem C 4 86 St. Oeortce's B 9 37 St. Andrew's C 8 , 88 Church of the Menlah 8 ^32 O ^y <^ m ■^' ip:;v!^^ S-^; j^^f^il vV (f> ^^ i'^- «' » * ^ c ^ m <^ * 1 i '•i**MMInMMHMHMMk>riest and the n!)tary, and the next day the (Jovernor caused to be distributed to the married a bull, a cow, a hog, a sow, a cock, a hen, two barrels of sail meat, eleven crowns, and certain acres." POINTS OK INTKHEST. The tourist visiting Montreal will probably go first to that famous palace hotel, the \\'i»(fsor, which in (me of the finest hotels on the ccm- tinent. The Windsor is, moreover, one of the centers of M(> poimds. From the summit of the tower which contains the bells a splendid view is obtained. The entire cost of the Church of Notre Dame was in the neighborhood of |C.,(.0o,O(»0. Along '.ide of Notre Dame stands the ancient Seminart/ of St. Suf- picfy built more than two centuries ago, its massive wall, pierced with loopholes, looking grimly down on the thronged and peaceful street. The seminary shares with the Batik of Moufreaf, whose pillared abode rises on the opposite side of the square, the distinction of being the wealthiest institution in America. In the immediate vicinity of the Place d'Armes throng the splendid structures of the Post-Office, the MONTREAL. 67 Jacquea-Cartior Bank, the Banqiic Xationale, and the buildings of the New York Life and other insurance coiii[)anios. As far as situation f^oea, and perhaps in other resipocts as well, the finest square in the city is I)omiuion Square. It is liij^h and spacious, and about it gather several fine churclies ; the vast pik' of the Wind- sor Hotel ; and, overshadowing them all, the great Rotnan Catholic Cathedral, which is known as *SV. Prter^s in spite of the fact that St. James is its patron saint. This noble structure is a fftr-simitc of St. Peter's at Rome, with its dimensions reduced about one half. The ex- treme measurements of this cathedral are : length li'ili ft., breadth 222 ft., height 258 ft., circumference of dome 21<> ft. Of the other Roman Catholic churches of the city the most inter- esting to tourists are the beautiful Church of Notre Dame de Ixmrdea, on the corner of St. Catherine and St, Denis Sts. ; the Jexu'iis'' Church on Hleury St., with its unrivaled frescoes and excpiisite nmsic; the Chapel of Notre Dmnr de Nnztreth, with its fine paintings ; and the famous old liomecours Church, which was built in 1771. Of the Anglican churches the finest, from an architectural point of view, are St. (rtorplied with breath- ing-places. There is the historic Champ dc Mars, on ( 'raig St., still used as a parade-ground. Near the City Hall is Jacqites-Cartitr Square, adorned by two Russian guns from the spoils of Sebastopol, and by a col- umn and statue erected in 1808 in memory of Nelson. At the junc- tion of McGill and St. James Sts. is Victoria Square, formerly the hay- market, presided over by a colossal bronze statue of the Queen. On 68 MONTKKAL. St. Denis St., llic iiristocriitic l''inu'li rcsidi'iico ((iiartcr, arc tlic ]'!«;<■!' (fiirtlinH. St. I/r/fn's /xlami, iiioicovcr, is in»w ii>f(l as a publir paik, thoiij^'li hflon^iuf; to tin- Kii<;liMli (fovcimni'iit. It is tin- favorit*- resort of the citj iiieiiickers, and forfrcts its martial experiences of old times. (')iainplaiirs wife, in whose honor thi' island is named, was tlie first Kuropcan woman of 'gentle l»irth to east in Iter lot with Canada. A plaee of rcscMl which the toinist slioidd not fail to visit is the non- f'etOMiH IWnrkef. The «rreat maiket-days are Tuesday and Friday when the broad space is thr(»nj;cd with /mfiifdnfs* and one comes into close contact with thee a use of it themselves, i;ave rise to the epithet 'So'Ui'S (Jrises,' the woid f/rixf hearinu a double nicanini: in French, vi/.,a jjray color, or tipsy." The Sisters who were thus cruelly assailed have made the «»nee opprohiious epithet a title of the hi;.'hest honor. The best time for visitors to call at the (Jrey Nutinery is at the noon hour, whenc-illers arc always made welcome. The Jun/af \ h- Innn I/os/iifal is the f^ift of two of Montieal's chief" citizens. Sir (Jeorne Stephens and Sir Donald Smith. Just below Mochelafia, beyond the eastern limits of the city, sto»»d the vast structure of the hnnfnc Po'nttr Ani/hi»i^ which was burned to the jjround in the summer of 181)0. This institution was in charjre of a Roman Catholic relifjious order. Sixty of the inmates, includin}^ several of the nuns in charf,'e, jterished in the con fl a}; rat ion. Amonjr the educational instituticms are Mrfwill University, the /*nsf)i/fn'iuiltiiii;;s, wliirli arc on Shvi'ln'ookf SI., tlic "Fifth Avoniu' " of Monti-cal, stand in thr midst i^f tine <;roiinds, and i-ontain a i^ood lil)rary and tiie famous Kedpath Museum. Alfilialed with .Me(iill are the IVeshyti'rian, Coufiref^ational, Wesleyan, and Anuliean ('olU'i:es of Motitii'al, t ft. horizontal. From the bed of the river to the top of the center tul)e is a distance 0(hmk>, and its con- struction occupied five years and a half. It was formally opened by the Prince of Wales in 18(50. Close l)y the bridge, at Poini Sf. C/uidrx^ is the burying-ground of 6,()0(» immigrants who died in lS17-'48 of a frightftil epidemic of ship-fever. In the center <»f the burying-ground is a huge bowlder known as the hnmiffranh'' Mcmorud Utoue, which 70 MONTKKAI was taken from the bed of the riv(>r iiiul raided on a column of masonry by the workmen en^^a^ed in the eonstruetion of the bridge. In Hharp eontrast with tlie gigantic tube of the Victoria Hrid^e Id the aerial Htrueture by which the t'linailiaii I'acilic Railway crosses the St. Lawrence at JmcIuhv. This brid^re is built un the most modern desi<;n, and is a brilliant application of the cantilever |)rinciplc. Its Hpans appear like clusters of {rrcat steel cobwebs. They otter little resistance to the winds, and condiine the greatest strength with the least possible weight. Pronnnent among the buildings of .Mimtreitl are the ca()acious Bonavfulnre Depot, belonging to the t'arern, their strnn};e t'ostiimos more Htruiifje in tlie lurid li^lit ; and tlu> spectral citadel \n carried with tiiinult, niidd a inaiiy-eolored storm of rockets, Uomuii candles, and all the iu(»st ^or^eoiis of pvro- techinc devices. The following' eminently praeiicui hit fiom Murray's Illuritratvd (luide niav he found useful hv some travelers: I/uw to visit the Prini'ijKil I'/atrs nj' Iiiti trsf in the S/ioi'tful Tiimj'or the Loist Moiiif/. In whatever (lur.rter of the city you are lodging, the first place to visit lA the Xolir Ihiinc Chnrvh, From the Windsor, if you do not wish to hire a cal», walk down Windsor .St. to the corner of St. Antoine St, Krom there take the street-cars {ioinj; E., and tell the conductor to let you off at the I\»st- OHice, and then a few paces from you is Notre Dame Church and sev- eral other places of interest. A few blocks E. from there is the Niw Citi/ Ilafl, the Conrt-llomc^ X(lsni(''>< Mimnuuttt, St. (Jahriel St. old IWshi/ffridn Church, and not far away is the /i'mmrours Mni'krt and /husicoui'ft Church. While there you may visit the hiirftur and the Kcw CuKtom-I/onxr, about a half-nnle farther W. Then walk up Mc- Gill St. to Victoria Scpuire, whence you may f,'et the street-cars to take you to the principal jdaces of interest up town. First visit the Xotic Damr de Lourthx, near the corner of St. Catherine and St. Denis Sts. Thence retrace your steps westward till you come to Hlcury St., and there is the old Jesuit)!^ Church and CoUctjv. Then turn up to St. Catherine St., \W, till you come to tiie Art (ttiffcrtf, corner of Phillips S(|uare. Then visit the A'lii/lish Cathedral and the Afuseum of (he Natural J/isforif Socicti/. Then take the street-cars till you come W. as far as (Juy St., and visit the (nri/ Xuiinert/ at noon. After dinner, hire a cab to take you to the McHill Collc[/c (there is a very interesting museum in connection with the college, which visitors may enter on payment of a small entrance fee), and close by are the two city reser- voirs; and if you don't wish to hire a ca)) to take you to the top of the mountain, you can go up by the elevator for 5c, Then, after you have taken a good view of the surrounding country from the top of the mountain, and visited the two cemeteries, you can come back to the city by the omnibuses for 15c., and you have a day well spent, and not over $1 of necessary expense, besides your hotel bill. r 72 MONTIiKAL TO HT. JOHN. From Montreal to St. John. Froth Montreal tin; tourist, who litis alit'aliii-rfi l»y tlio ('anaflian I'at'ilii- Short Line (fare, >);{. ."»(>; rctuiii, i(y the new Cana- ilian I'aeilie l{. !t. Iiridi^e at /^ov/iiin , aiu\ run throiejli the Imlian villa<^e of ('oHif/iiiairaifii, where dwtdl the remnants «d' the lro(|ii(tis. Thesi! Indians are nia<;nifieent i>oatmen, and in the late !'].i:,V|>tiaii wai- a Itand of fifty of them did s|ilendid service for Kn;.'land in the rapids of the Nile. At lii'hfliiun Junctnni tin' M(;ntreal and Ifostun Air-Line di- verj^es for the W lufi Momihiinx, Soon we eomi' in si^rht of A/nnp/m- niiif/'ii/'x sliinin^ waters, watched over hy the famous peaks of Kle- phantis and Owl's Head. From Moifnii Slation a steamer departs daily on a circuit of the lake's winding shores, stoppin^i at the many smnnier rt'sorts for which the re}:ion is famous. After passing Maijo*;, the next important station is Shi rhrnokf, the metropolis oC the Kastern 'I'own- ships, a pretty city at the junctiointf the .Ma^'o;^ and St. Francis Jiiveis. Sherbrooke has a population of hetween S),o(Mi and In^odo, and is biiildinj,' up a larjie manufacturing interest. The falls of the Ma<;ofr are well worth a visit. The chief hotels are the Slnrhrookv llnunr, Mui/oni;'it,,ir„^ on the sliort" of tlio grandest of nil Maine waters, tlie faiinHis Mndsi/ninl Luke This water '\> Id miles lon^ ami from 1 to I '> wi waters arc spleiididlv stocked with trout of jiieat >i/,e, and around 'W* shoivs me admiralde sliootin<;:-;;rounds, where on(> may lia;^ wuih i;aine us moose, hear, deer, and eariijoii, to say nntldn^r of ^iroiisc innnmeialtle. .\l l.ttwi-lltown are jjuides ami eanoes, and several i-oin- fortalde liotels. Kroiii (ifniH'ilIc, another lal\e->ide town, steamers run to all the points of interest /).s<-'>/ li'ntr. Trom this point to I'ldirifi'iro, on the New Itrunswick hoiindary, we pass thiou^h a rutrired country, full of lakes and streams, and (lotted ht.'re and tlu'ir with crude little lumlierinu villa^a-s. Vancehort* is on the *S7. ('mix /iV/'(/*, the outlet of the hound.iiy, oi' Chiputnelicocdv Laki's. The le- jiion id' these lakes is a liood tnie for the sportsman, and \'aiicei»oro is a convenient point from which to reach them. Six miles iieyond Vaiiee- Itoro is Mi-Ailiiiit ,/uii'/i(iit, a village whose houses are piivhed in such vacant spaces as can l>e found between the liiij^e liowldeis which cover the face of tli(> land. At Mc.\dam connectiitiis are maile for Woiii/xfuc/,- and i'rtsijKc /s'c to the N., and for Cif'iils, Sf. Ntji/tm^ and the lovely summer rescit of SI. Aii-(ii'\s\i> the S. forty miles Iieyond McAdam is the littie villaii'e of Fiedericton .Iuiicti«m, lio miles from Fredericton ; and a run of 14 miles beyond Fiedericton .Junction, thiouj;;h scenes to be described in later pa;j''s, brin;. us to the city of SI. JdIui. Montreal to Quebec by the St. Lawrence. If the tourist has not seen Qmhti', then assure, Governor Carleton was defeated by the American forces. On the N. shore, a little beyond, is Lo»f/ue Poiute, with the ruins of the great asylum already mentioned. Nine miles from Montreal we pass J'ohit-aux-TnmhJ&i, with its old French church, which was built in 1*704. A little farther on, and we are among the flat and reedy Isles of lionchcrvillc, where admirable are the pike-fishing and duck-shooting in their seasons. Among these shoals and islands and reaches of slow water, the ice, in the spring breaking-up, is ai)t to run aground and jam, causing floods which Montreal finds very troublesome. Fifteen miles from Montreal is the charmingly situated health-resort of VarnnuK, made important by its mineral springs. The fields of Varennes are washed in front by the St. Lawrence, and in the rear by the arrowy tide of the lovely and his- toric Richelieu. Thirty miles beyond Varennes the Kichelieu Hows into the St. Lawrence. At this point stands Sorcl, which has lately been pro- moted to the dignity of a city. Here in 16(55 a fort was established by De Tracy. Sorel was for a long ume the summer residence of the Gov- ernors of Canada. There is gootl fishing among the islands which clus- ter at the Richelieu's mouth, and in October the neighborhood affords capital snipe-shooting. The population of Sorel in 1S81 was 5791. In the towns and counties along the Richelieu are perpetuated the names of the officers of the old Carignan-Salieres Regiment, who were stationed on seignories throughout this region to guard the approaches to Villemarie. As Mr. Hunter picturesquely puts it, they are "picketed around the ancient rendezvous at the confluence of the Richelieu and St. Lawrence, ... as though still guarding the Iroquois River-Gate." Here, besides Varennes, we have Berthier, Lavaltrie, Boucher, Coiitrc- MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 76 cwur, and Verchcres. One of the most illustrious of Canada's heroines is Madeleine, daughter of Lieutenant Vercheres, Vcroh6res's fort was called " Castle Dangerous," being so exposed to the assaults of the Iro- quois. On one occasion Madeleine, witl. a force of three men and two little boys, sustained the attacks of the Inxjuois for a whole week, till help came from tiuebec. The girl was at this time but fourteen years of age. Her followers, on the first attack, were for killing themselves, to escape the torture of the Irixiuois, but her dauntless courage and energy gave them new heart, and her wisdom taught them to conduct the defense successfully. The valley of the Richelieu was for two centuries a pathway of war, along which fire and sword, Iro(piois and Abenakis, French and Dutch and English, Canadian and American, streamed alternately on errands of vengeful hate. The tourist who wishes to travel this blood-stained track will ascend through landscapes of blended sublimity and peace, and find himself at length on the bosom of that magnificent lake, no longer Canadian, which yet perpetuates the name of the Father of Canada, Samuel de ('hamplain. Like the war parties of old, he will find him- self in the very heart of the State of Xew York. Unlike those ancient visitors, however, his visit will be not unwelcome. He will have found his ascent of the rushing Kichelieu made easy by the Chntnhhf Cnnaf. He will have traversed the rich and lovely Eastern Townships and caught their distinctive fiavor. He will probably delay his trip, and linger long and wander hither and thither in this delightful land of lake and mountain. Besides Lakes .Ueinjthreinm/of/ and Mcffautic he will visit the lovely waters of liroinr and AfaNsnwip/n. Through the wild, maple-wooded hills he will trace the path by which, in 1759, the aveng- ing band of Rogers's Rangers swept to the slaughter of the Abenakis — after which the lumies of New England had peace for a little. Hut the strife of man will presently be forgotten as we mark how the struggles of warring Nature, iu forgotten ages, have scored the face of all this region with their gigantic and indelible records. The effects of these ancient cataclysms, together with the sphere of their opera- tion, have been thus well described by Mr. J. Howard Hunter, in Pict- uresque Canada : "Throughout this land the strata have been much shaken and changed by some Titanic force — seemingly steam heated beyond the scale of any pyrometer, and tor*ured under pressure which would be inadequately gauged by thousands of tons to the square inch. Sir Will- I' i 7r» MOxNTKEAL TO (ilKUKO. iaiTi Logan traced a lino of disloeatiun from .Yfixsisquoi Ba;i on Lake (JlutinpUuit to Piuiit LhuK, alon}^ which the w rcncliing asunih^r of strata is e(|iiiviih'nt fo a vertical displacement of many thousands of feet. Westward of this line of rupture — which we shall call Logan's hne — the scdiiueiitarv rocks that were diiectly exposed to incandescent steam, softened, rcarranjred their cleiuents, and ran to a jrl.issy or stony paste. Under the enornlous pressure helow, the surface-strata |)resently cracked aiitl soinotimes ojuMied wide. Instantly into the cracks and fissures rushi'd the pasty I'ock, loiinin;.'^ dikes of trachyte or diorite. In places the very {granite foundations «)f the world seem to have softened and followed the sedimentaiy rocks to the surface. Where the •ground yielded most, stately pyramids of mountain-protoplasm were l)orn. It is to such throes of .Mother Karth that we owe the l»eautiful sisterhood of Ihheil Moioifiiiii and )'(tiiiM'eernible (tn bctth sides of the river. .More general, and far more violent, was the famous earth(|uake of \i\i\'-\. (bi the ath of Feb- ruary began a serits (d" convulsions which did not (pnte disappear till nndsu'iiiiiei'. Land-slides oecuri'ed all along the river-banks, and the bliu' St. Lawrence I'an white as far down as Tadousac. Kvery one ex- plained the phenomenon in his own way. At Montreal, not a tew con- sciences were sudtten for having sold lire-water to the Intlians. The Indians, however, deilared that the shades of their forefathers were struggling to return to the I'arthly hunting-grounds, ami, most unduti- fully, they kept firing oft" their imi.skets to scare their un(|uiet sires ; 'for,' (pioth the musketeers, 'it's plain to see there's not game enough on earth for both of ns ! ' " The eailiest lecoi'ded name of the Kiehelieu Rivei', as found in ('hami)Iain's narratives, is AV/vr/v (Jen Vrocois ; so called because it led to the land of the .Mohawks. The chief town on the Jliehelieu is the pretty little garrison city of «Sy. ,U>hn^ with a p(»iiulation of about rt,(»00. Chief hotel the (Janada lloUl. A few miles belo.v the mouth of the Jiichelieu the St. Lawrence opens out into the great exi)anse called hiki' St. Pdrr. Cartier named this water, when first he ascended the St. Lawrence, Lac d'Angoideme ; but sixty-eight years later it was visited by Chanjplain on St. Peter'.s Day, and named in pious conunemoratiou of the festival. The lake is MONTREAL TO QUKBEC. 77 25 miles in lonfrtli hy 9 miles in hreadtli, and \» shallow except in the channel, wliieli has lu'en dredged to afford safe passajre to the lar<.',est ocean steaniei-s. llic shallow waters are suhject to suddi'H and violent storms, by which the frreat rafts on their leisuri-ly way to (^iiehec me l'remury liiijrers in the nanu' of the swift and broken wafer below Toiiite I'laton, which is known aH the Hichelieu Uapid. A little below Lake St. I'et«>i' flows in from the north the f:;reaf SI. Maurice f\'!rn-, which will be referred to later on. \l its mouth stands the city of Three Hivers, rankini; third in nnportance and population aiv.on!>. iiiid is the center of a heavy trade in hunber and iron. .Xround the city lie vast dep<»sits of bofr-iron ore, and the ^reat lumberin<; interests of the upper St. .Maurice tind an outlet throujrh its port. Three Kivers is the see of a Roman Catholic bishop, whose catluMhal is an imposin7. The city is rei.dc'.'d the more in- teresting; by the masses of legend and romantic tiaditimi that cluster about it, ott'erinu; a tield which has hiirdly been touched save by the pen of the French-Canadian author, lienjamin Suite. It will well repay an extended visit. Steamers ply fron» the city wharves to th<' adjacent river villages. Within easy reach are many lart.'<' mountain brooks, swarminir with trout; and from the city one may convetnently visit the splentlid tishinjr waters of the u|)per St. .Maurice. A slafre-ride of 2(> miles from ThrtM> Rivers takes one to the famous mineral sprimjs of St. Leon, (hi the south shore of the St. Lawrence, opjiosite Three Rivers, is th<' village of Doueifs /.mitfinif, the terminus of the Artha- baska and Three Rivers branch of the (i. T. Ry., which connects the city with the Fiastcrn Townships. A short distance below Three Rivers wc pass the village of /iitt/sran, 78 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. at the mouth of the Batiscan River. River and village are named after an Indian chief famous in the early history of Canada. The next village commemorates the apparently omnipresent Ste. Anne — in this case called Ste. Anne dc hi Penidc. Beyond St. Anne's lies the ancient settlement of Pointr-aux-TrenihlcH, where, during the final siege of Quebec in 1759, took place several encounters between French and English. The following incident is taken from the entertaining pages of Mr. J. M. Le Moine : "A party of 1,200 of Eraser's Highlanders and Grenadiers," says Panet, '' were dispatched to l*ointe-aux-Trend)les, commanded by Gen- eral Wolfe in person, under the guidance of Major Robert Stobo, on July 21, 1759, and captured three men and a bevy of Quebec French ladies, who had sought a refuge there during the bombardment. The English were fired on by about 40 Indians, but succeeded, about half- past three in the morning, having surrounded the houses roimd the church, in capturing about thirteen ladies. Among the fair captives were Mesdames Duchesnay, De Charny, with her mother and her sister, and Mdlle. Couillard. The Joly, Malhiot, and Magnan families formed part of them. They were treated with every kind of respect. Young General Wolfe headed the detachment imder the guidance of Major Robert Stobo, who, it seems, made several pretty speeches to the ladies — ''qui a fait hien deit comp/inients.^ " What was worse," remarks I'anet, " was that while the British soldiery did them no harm, the Indians (allies of the French) pillaged the houses and property of nearly all these unfortunate refugees. (Panct's Journal du Siege, p. 13.) Each captive for the day bore the name of her captor. " It sounds odd that it should have seemed necessary to detail 1,200 Highlanders and Jtritish (irenadiers, etc., to capture thirteen French ladies! One likes to recall this romantic incident in the career of Miss Lowther's admirer, James Wolfe — the chivalrous gallantry of the young soldier toward beauty in distress. Next day the fair Quebecers were brought home in boats and landed at Ance des Meres, at >i p.m., orders having been sent by the General to the English fleet to stop fir- ing on the city until 9 p. m., so as to afford the captives time, after their release, to retire to a place of safety. Who were on that July 21, 1759, Madame Wolfe, Madame Stnbo, Madame Frazer ? What a lark for the sons of Mars to write about in their next home letters ! At Pointe-aux Trembles occurred, during the spring of 1760, the engage- ment between the French frigates and an overwhelming force of the British fleet, brave Captain de Vauclain, of the Atalante, winning, by his spirited though unsuccessfid defense, the respect of worthy foes." Next .ina Jarqties-Carticr JRiver, famous for its salmon-fishing and well stocked with trout. Here the shores of the St. Lawrence begin to grow more bold and picturesque. Lower down we pass, in MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 79 the clear mcrning light, the old village of St. Auguntin, whose first church, built in 1690, enjoyed, according to tradition, a very peculiar distinction. It is told that the devil, in the giuse of a gigantic black horse of monstrous strength, hauled the huge stones of the founda- ti(»n walls. About 12 miles from Quebec is the mouth'of the Chan- dih'c liiver, flowing in from the south. This river runs a wild course of about 100 miles, and as it nears the St. Lawrence plunges down a mngnificent fall of nearly loO ft. The cataract is famous for its picturesque grandeur. It was by way of the valley of the ('haudi^re that Benedict Arnold led his troops on that heroic but disastrous ex- pedition of his from New England to Quebec. The storied iieights which loom on either hand, as we a{)proach Quebec will be described in subsequent paragraphs. Steaming between the clitfs of Point Levis and the guns of that aiirial citadel which guards the gate of Canada, we round up to the wharves of Quebec. To Quebec by the South Shore. In going f' iontreal to Quebec l>y the Grand Trunk, the trav- eler is carried lar south of the St. Lawrence, and through the romantic and richi} storied landscapes already descril)ed in connection with the Richelieu River. It is a lovely journey, and should be taken on the day express. The crossing of the Vidnria lirhft/c is like the passage of a long tunnel, and occupies between four and five minutes. From Montreal to Richmomf, where the Quebec Branch diverges from the main line running through to PoHlnml, Mc.^ tiie way is thick with thriving towns, and fruitful in historic memoiics. Tiie busy little French city of St. Hi/arinfhe, on the Yamaska Jxii'n\ has some points of interest for the tourist, and a population of about G,oo0. It has a college, two cathedrals, and a large manufacturing interest in leather, woolens, and machinery. St. //i/idn, about 12 iinles west of St. llyacinthe, has excellent bh»ek-bass and pil\e fishing in June, July, and August. At Jtlchtnoml, inqiortant as a junction town, and for the copper-ndnes in its vicinity, there is a village population of between 1,000 and 2,000. A few miles beyond Riehniond is the growing village of Danville, with several factories. Arthahashi village is of impor- tance chiefly as the starting-point of the branch line to D(>ncct\s Land- iriff, already referred to. Near Arthabaska we cross the river Nicolrt, named for Cliamplain's brave interpreter, Jean Niclot the peacemaker so MONTREAL TO tiriMJKC. who dwelt for nino years iurionj; fl)0 wizard \ipissiuf]f!«. A little beyond Aithabaska lies the villaire of Sfim/ohf. At /.//.vAv, where we cross the Jircdmnnr Ji'in r, tliere Is a eoiisiderahh" hiiidierln^^ l»ti!-iness. Twenty miles from L>'i/. Annpit dr /ifanrii'iii/i'. At C/K/fidlrrr \\f vv()fi< the wild liver of the same name, already referred to. Nine miles faither oji we stop at the station of I't'nil Iji'is^ whence a ferry eanies ns over to (^neltee. To Quebec by the North Shore. The trains of the ('. I'. W. \\. run between Quehee and Montreal alonj^ the north shore of the St. Lawrenee, in a little over six hours. This is a rapid and luxurious tri|>, for the line is unrivaled in man- agement and e(|uipment ; hut in the way of landseape it offers little vai'iety. Leavin;:: linlltniisii Sijuarr Sf,i/in» wo pass the stations of //or/ttfii'///rfs. and reach Sf. .\fort'ni''s Jntidio)}^ whence the main lini' of theC. I*. I{. R. swerves olV for its lono; Jf)urney across the continent. Tassiu": the junction, we cross the muth luiinch of the Ottawa Iliver at Ti viuhntnw^ whose limestcme (|Uiiri'ies liiive liuilt Montreal. l''rom Jnl'iitli Jiniilloii there are branch lines to a ninnl);'r of sinall towns — sueh as Jnliilh, St. Fr'ir ilr I'n/ois^ atid .SV. (liiliriil ijc firnnilnt. From /.intuniii and li< rlliii r Juticlioiis iiin sli(U't luaneh liiu'S to villages of th«" same names (u» the liver-shore. Uerthiei' has a population of 'J,.">(K». In thi' nei,!_diliorhoo(l of l^ni'iKvillr are the SI. l.rnii Sfirinffs., already relevred to. All these stations arc in a lend, hiuhly cultivatetl plain, cut up into the Ion;;', narrow fields that eharaeierizc the older parts of (^tuebec. This curious arranj^ement arises from the French custom of ilividini; estates e(|ually amonii the owner's heirs, and ^ivin;; each pcution of the subdivided farms a likt' river-fiontaiic Leavinti Louisville the train runs tlii'ou";h )'.iiiiy a railway ruiniinj^ from the " Tiles " to /V<'.v' Juuctinu on the C. P. U. R. IJdow the " Piles " the land lies in terraces or " benches." Twenty-f.uir miles above Three Rivers are the famous Shaiiuitci/an Falfti, remarkable for their beauty and grandeur even in this country (d cataracts. The In dian name, Shawenej^an, signitics " needlework," a»»d wa-< doubtless KUfrgestcd by the beautiful play of colors «)n the foaming surface. Just above the falls the river is split by a rocky island. The right branch descends with a direct plunge. The left, roaiing aroinul the obstacle, meets the other almost at right angles. Here the reunited torrent finds its way blocked by a rugged point. Hurled back upon itself, the river falls away to one side, and sweeps down a rocky trough into the swirl- ing bosom of a spacious ba-in. Into this same basin winds peacefully, between (|uiet glades of elms and river meadows, the Shawenegan River. If one ascends this stream a little way, wliich may be done very delightfully in a canoe, he will be rewarded by a sight of one of the loveliest and most romantic of cascades, the Li/t/c S/nin'rioi/tm FaUs. (iuides to the fishing and shooting of the St Maurice may be obtained at Three Rivers and other places. For infornuition as to leased waters, for perndts, etc., one sluuild write in advance to Joseph Reymir, Ksjj., (lovernment Supei'intendent of the St. Maurice District. Two miles be\mul Thrif Rivers our train passes Piles Junction, already ri'fci'n'd t(». Then come C/Dintphiin, /latittrtDt, Lf»v'//c, a settlement of Chiistianized Huron Indians, founded about two centuries and a half ago. IJeyond Lorette we pass the junction of the Lake St. John R. R., the gateway to that sportsman's paradise which lies about the head-waters of the Sague- nay. Four miles farther, and our train stops under the citadel of Quebec. City of Quebec. Hotels, etc.— The Fhrtncc {%2.rtO to ^\ per day;, in St. John St.; the -S^. /.om/.s Hotel (f2.5() to ^.") per day), in St. Louis St., near Dufferin Terrace ; the Iitissrlf House, cor. Aim and (Jarden Sts. ; /faiehei/\s Hotel, in St. Ann St. ; Mountain Hill House ($1.50 per day), on Mount- ain St. ; and BlanchariT a, in the Lower Town. 6 ^ 82 QUKUKC. MmlvH of Conveyance. — Horse-curs (fare Tn.'.) trttversc the streets aloii^ the river in the liower Town and extend to the suburbs. A second line runs ah>ng St. Jchn St. in the I'pper Town. Carriaj^es or caUchcH may l)e hired at the livery-stables, and on tlie eab-stands near the hotels and markets. The atUche, a two-wheeled one-horse a|»pa- ratus, is the usual vehicle, and costs about 75e. an hour. Ferries eon- neet the city with South tiuebec, New Liverpool, and I'oint Levi, on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, and run three times a day to the Isle of Orleans. An elevator runs from Champlain St. to Dufferin Terrace i?i the sunuiier oidy. C'/ufhi. — (iarrison, Tnion, Castanet, Club de Maiehands, Club .Mont- morency, Le Carillon, Quebec Assemblies, t^ueltec Ilij,'h-Sehool .Mu.>*eum Jiisiaumntn. — Chien d'Or, Mercantile, (Quebec Clul), Koyal Mail, St. Peter. Theatre. — Academy of Music. Population of Quebec, 85,000. B (^lEBKC, 17r.7. (From the French of Philip|)e de (laspe, author of The Canadians of Old. Translated by Charles (j. D. lloberts, and published by D. Appleton & Co.) An oaj^le city on her heifihts austere, TukiT of tribute from the chuinlctiH Hood, Hhe wutcht'H wave above her in tlie clear The whiteness of her banner purged with l)i()od. Near her grim citaderthe blinding sheen Of her cathedral sjjire triumphant soars, Uocked l»y the Angelus, whose peal sert-ne Beats over Heaupre and the Levis shores. Tossed in his light craft on the dancing wave, A titranger where he once victorious trod, Tlie pascing Iroquois, tlerce-ejed and grave, Frowns on the flag of France, the cross of (iud. Among the cities of the New World the grandest for situation, the most romantic in associations, the most distinctive and picturesque in details, is the sentinel city that keeps the gates of the St. Lawrence. Nothing could be more impressive than the view of Quebec from a little distance down the river, unless it be the matchless panorama to be seen from the parapets of Dufferin Terrace, within the city. Looking up toward Quebec, or looking down from Quebec, it is hard to say which is the more impressive view. When one is ascending the St. Lawrence he sees on his right the milk-white cataract of Montmoreriei/^ descending as it were out of heaven over the dark face of the mount- the le in lice. 11 a to ting jsay St. lf"V/, mt- B (JIKIIKC. 88 iiiiirt that Hkii't the iiorlli hIioi'i' of tlii' St. Lawrciu-e. On tlic left the white villaj:«'S o( /M/iirOr/imm, wiili th«'ir t'iir-;,'lilt(.'iiii}: liiltU-d spircH, lu'stic in thi" (Ici'p ^^ivt'U of I'lxnriant j;rovi'S. In front iisi'.M tho i-n- ehantin<{ city, tier upon tii-r of st«-('p-i-oofi>(l houses ami ([iiaint, proc-ipi- tons stivt'ls, lirradtlis of liiay clin'-froMl, an/h sh<»res beyond tin- eity are the dark lir-^roves of Silhrii^ "with its memories of missions and massaeres." The water-front of (he eity is thronged with ships whose nui<*ts and funnels oitseiire the warehouses. Shif)s are anchored thickly in mid-chainiel, and between them dod;;e the pulKn^ tuj^s and the hl;;h two decker ferries makin;^ their hasty way to the lofty and huddliu}^ town of /'o'/0, came Sir William I'hips with an English fleet, and, anchoring off Isle d'Orlcans, demanded the capitulation of the city. Very short was the answer of the fiery old (Jovernor, Frontenac, and emphatic was his repulse of the hostile scpiadron ; but New France was ever a thorn in the side of the Kngllsh speaking cohmies along the Atlantic seaboard, and the citadel on ('ape Diamond was a wasp's nest, by whose stings they were g(»aded all too frcfpiently. Not unnatural was their demand for its destruction, and in 1711 thi' task was again undertaken, this time by Admiral Sir Iloveden Walker. His fleet, however, was shattered by a storm in the (Julf of St. Lawrence ; and for '■n ; '.J |l 1 86 QUEBEC. these two deliverances the {)arish church in the Lover Town was dedi- cated to Noire Dame dcs Victoirea. Dui-ing the Seven Years' War l»e- tween France and Enfrhmd, (2uel)ec was finally captured, and the leopards of England supplanted the lilies of France. This took place in nno. The splendid victory of General Wolfe against heavy odds has been brilliantly narrated by I'arknian. On the 'Jfith of June came a fleet under Admiral Saunders, with transports carrying Wolfe an(> strong. Now, under the very walls of the citadel, just back of the Dufferin Terrace, stands a monument in joint commem- oration of the opposing generals who fell on the Plains of Abraham. " Montcalm and Wolfe ! Wolfe ami Montcalm I (Jiieboc, tliy storied citadel Attest in burniiijf sour and psalm How here thy heroes fell ! " >o cy QUEBEC. 87 In the following spring the besiegers became the besieged. The French genenil De L6vis, with an army of about 10,000 men, defeated Murray on the Plains of Abraham ; and the English were shut up be- hind the fortifications till relief came in the shape of an English fleet on the 15th of May. De Ldvis withdrew; and soon afterward Canada became an English colony. In 1775, during the American Uevoluticm, General Benedict Arnold, with a small army, made his famous march by the ChaudUre Vaflct/, scaled the heights at Wolfe's Cove, and laid siege to the city. Two weeks later General Montgomery arrived. On the 31st of December the American forces advanced to the assault, but were repulsed with heavy loss. The brave Mcmtgomery fell before a barricade on Champlain St. The house on Sf. Jmuih St. to which his body was taken is now an Indian curiosity-shop, and one of the points of interest of the city. Montgomery was buried at the foot of Citadel Hifl, but the body was afterward removed to New York. POINTS OF INTEREST. Quebec is often called the Gibraltar of America. The base of the citadel is SS.*? feet above the water. Its fortifications cover about 40 acres. The city is divided into the Upper and Lover Town, which are connected by an elevator ascending tlie face of the cliff, and by a steep, winding street called Cote de la Afontagnc. The cliff face is in places insecure, and not long since an immense mass of rock fell away, over- whelming a portion of the street below. Many persons perished in this catastrophe ; and now, though costly engineering operations have been undertaken to reinforce the cliff, wayfarers who pass along Champlain St. do so in fear and trembling. Most of the business is in the Lower Town, by the water-side. The Upper Town lies within the city walls and beyond them to the Plains of Ahraham, and comprises also the suburbs of St. Louis and St. John. The walls run west from the citadel to the heights overhanging the St. Charlts, and thence around the face of the promontory till they rejoin the cliffs of Cape Diamond near the Governor's garden, a circuit of nearly 3 miles. Some years ago the old city gates, five in number, were removed, but three new ones, far more substantial and ornamentalj have replaced them. These are St. Louis Gate and St. JohCs Gate, and the Kent Gate in St. Patrick's St. / " The point to which the attention of the stranger in Quebec is first directed is Dufferin Terrace^ which lies along the edge of the cliff, i:;!. 88 QUEBEC. towering 200 feet above the river, and overlooking the Lower Town, i'art of it occupies the site of the old Chateau of St, Louis, built by Chaniplain in Ifi'iO, and destroyed by (ire in 18H4. Dufferin Terrace, which was opened to the public in June, 1879, by the Marquis of Lome and Princess Louise, is an uncqualed promenade over ^ mile long. The outlook from the Terrace is one of the finest in the world, and is of itself worth a trip to Quebec. The Ksplanade, near the St. Louis (iato, is another attractive promenade, and the walk along the Ramparts between the St. Louis (late and St. John's Gate, affords prospects rivaled by few in America. The view from the Gt'nnd Battery, near the iMval UniverHiiti, is considered by many to be finer even than that from Dufferin Terrace ; and that from the vast balcony of the Univer- sity building is still more impressive. The Place (V Amies, or Parade- ground, is a pretty little park adorned with a fine foimtain, lying be- tween Dufferin Terrace and the Anglican Cathedral, which is a plain, gray-stone edifice surmounted by a tall spire, standing in St. Ann St. on the site to which tradition points as t\w spot where Chaniplain erected his first tent. Adjoming the cathedral is the rectory, and the pretty little Chapel of All Saints. Des Carrieres St., running south from the Place d'Armcs, leads to the Governor'H Garden, containing an obelisk 65 feet high, to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. Des Carrieres St. also leads to the inner glacis of the Citadel, a powerfid fortification, covering 40 acres of ground, «m the summit of Cape Dia- mond." * The old Market Stjuare, on which has recently been erected a beau- tiful bronze fountain, is in the center of the Upper Town, surrounded by more or less striking biiildings. On the E. aide is the Basilica of Quebec (formerly the Cathedral), a s|»aeious cut-stone building, 216 ft. long and 180 ft. wide, and capable of seating 4,000 persons. The exterior of the edifice is very plain, but the interior is richly decorated, and contains several (riginal paintings of great value by Van«lyke, Caracci, Halle, and others. Adjoining the Dasilica on the N. are the 'i'.aint buildings of the Seminary of Quebec, founded in 1663 l)v M. 'le Laval, first Hishop of (Quebec. The Seminary Chapel was dr'^troyrd by fire in ISSV, but it is now being rebuilt. All the rare and nricoW'ss works of art were buriuHl. The liRval University, ii*uauvii in 1852, occupies three very imposing buildings. They are * Appletons' General Guide to U, S. A. and Canada. QUEBEC. 89 of cut stone, 57fi ft. long (the nmin building being 286 ft.), five stories high, and costing |240,,000 patients yearly. In the Convent Chapel are some valuable paintings. The Black Kunnerjf is in the suburbs of St. Roch's. Application to the Lady Superiors will usually secure admittance to the nunneiies. The Posl-OJfiee is a handsome stone edifice at the corner of Huade and Du Fort Sts. On its face is the historic effigy of " the (Jolden Dog," Le Chien (fOr, with its menacing inscription — " Je suis un chien qui ronge I'os," etc. (I am a dog that gnaws the bone), commenjorating a bitter feud between the infamous Bigot and the merchant Philibert, 90 QUEBKC. and the lonj^-delayed vengeance of tlie latter. The tale has been ampli- fied in Mr. Kirby'.s romance of " Le Chien d'Or." Immediately opposite is the Chien if Or licHtnurunf, famous for the circumstance that the niece of its first proprietor captivated the fancy of Nelson, then captain of the Albemarle, whose attempted elopement with the " maid of the inn" was frustrated by a friendly Quebec mereliant. The incident is, perhaps, the foundution of that roiip;h sailor-sonj; called " Shan- nodor." Near by is the (JardhuiVii Palace, a stately and handsome structure. Other noteworthy buildinjifs in the Upper Town are the City Hall, the Quebec Academy of Music, the Masonic Hall, and the (iarrison Clab, in St. Louis St. On (irande Alice are situated the Skatinj»-l{ink, the Parliament and Departntaifnl Bhililinf;.% which were begun in 1878, and the Armory and Exhibition IJuildinji^, a l)eautiful structure. The new Court-House, finished in 1888, is on the corner of St. Louis St. and Place d'Armes. Among noteworthy clmrchcs are the Methodist Church in St. Stanislas St., a fine specimen of the flamboy- ant Gothic style; St. Matthew's (Episcopal), in St. John St.; St. An- drew's (Presbyterian), at the intersection of St. Ann and St. Stanislas Sts., a spacious atone structure in the Gothic style ; Chalmers (Pres- byterian), in St. Ursule St. ; St. Patrick's (Roman Catholic), in McMa- hon St., and St. Sauveur and St. Roch's, in the suburbs. The fine and spacious Y. M. C. A. Hall is in St. John St., just without St. John's Gate. There are a good library, lecture-room, and reading-rooms, etc., opposite to which is the Montcalm Market Sipiare and Hall. The Insti- tut Canadien is in Fabrique St., and in Ann St. is situated the Wom- an's Christian Association. Just N. of DufiFerin Terrace is the head of Mountain Hill St., which descends to the Lower Town. To the right is a picturesque stairway, called the Chntnplain Steps, or Cote de la Montague, which leads down to the church of Notre-Dame des Victoires, erected in 1690 on the site of Champlain's residence. S. of the church is the Chami^ahi Market, a spacious structure on the river-bank, near the landing of the river steamers. St. Peter St., running N. between the cliff and the river, is the main business thoroughfare of this quarter, and contains the great commercial establishments, bjinking-houses, wholesale stores, etc. St. Paul St. stretches W. on the narrow strand between the cliff and the St. Charles, amid breweries and manufactories, tUl it meets, near the mouth of the St. Charles, St. Joseph St., the main artery of the large suburb of St. Roch's. On the banks of the St. Charles are the QUEBEC. 91 principal ship-yards, once so tln-ivin*; ; ansi)ital. The Finlay Asylum is on St. Foye road. The suburbs of St. Louis and St. John stretch S. and VV. along the plateau of the Upper Town, and are constantly encroaching on the \\\»- iov\c Plains of Ah I'nhan). They contain many handsome private resi- dences .ind several large conventual establishments and churches. The best approach to the Plains of Abraham is by (I'mndf A/fve, which com- mences at the St. Louis (late and the Martello Towers, four circular stone structures erected in 18<>7-'12 to defend the approaches to the city. On the spot where Wolfe fell in the memorable battle of September 13, 1759, stands Wolfed Afonunieiif, a modest column appropriately in- scribed. A short distance to the left is the path by which his army scaled the cliffs on the night before the battle ; it is somewhat shorn of its rugged character, but is still precipitous and forbidding. On the Plains, near the Ste. Foye road, stands the monument commemorating the victory won by the Chevalier de Levis over General Murray in 1760. It is a handsome iron column, surmounted by a bronze statue of Bellona (presented by Prince Napoleon), and was erected in 1854. About 8 miles out on the St. Louis road are Mount Hcrmon Ccmdcrif. 32 .icres in extent, beautifully laid out on irregular ground, sloping down to the precipices which overhang the St. Lawrence, antl St. Pat- rick's (R. C.) Cemetery. In its surroundings Quebec is more fortunate than any city in Can- ada. In whatever direction one turns, some point of interest will appear. The great island below the city, already mentioned as Isle d'OrleanN, is rich with history and romance, and is a favorite sum- I Ml ! JSSSS If 92 QUEBEC. mer resort for the citizens of Quebec. It was culled hie dc Bacchus by Cartier, and Minrgo by the Indians, liy the superstitious hnbUnntH it is still called Inle den Sorcih'en^ and is piously believed to be the favored resort of evory kind of hobgoblin. This superstition, however, has not hindered the fruitful island from becoming the seat of many Hourishing villages, su(;h as 8t. Pierre, St. Jean, Sf. Lmirmf, St. Fercol, St. Francois. The island is reached by a fc'rry -steamer from Quebec. The Falls of Jlloiitmorcncy. From Quebec to the Falls of Montmorency, 9 miles below, is a delightful drive over the fimuport tnradoii\ (hii'ii (1*01*. It in given brivHy a.H follows in llolliwi'Il's (Jiiide to tlie ("ity of QiK-bot': "At t\\v foot of La Moiita^ne dos Oruios are the nilns of ChAtrau iJigot, iiiins whioh can now but faintly jrivc un idea of what the orij^i- nal building was, of its grandeur, of its extent, of its seeret passagt'S, or its form. Two gal)les and a eenter wall, or rather the remnants of them, are visible, and from the faet of there being a sort of elearanee, now partly overgrown, we may presume that tliere was a garden. Enseoneed in the nddst of a forest ou one (»f the slopes of the Lawreii. tides are these relies of the past, and one can not but be iiui)res.s»'d with de»'p melaneholy as his eyes rest upon this deserted spot and his I'aney repeoples the shattered halls and e'uimbers with the giddy and guilty throngs whieh onee erowded them. History has given some few indis- tinet data, and imagination has done the rest for this story of the past. "The Intendant Bigot, who.se profligaey and extravagance wi-re un- limited, and whose rapacity supplied his reipnrements, constructed thi.s chiUeau in the wilds of the mountains; and hither, with companions as graceless as himself, he was wont to adjourn in every excess of dissi- pation. The intendant was a man fond of field sports, and the cliAteau was the head(|uarters of his hunting expeditions. It is said that on one of the.se he lost his way, and met a young Algoui|uin s(|uaw (»f singular beauty, who led him to the chAteau, and, being iniluced to enter its walls, its strong doors were closed against her egress, and she remained there a prisoner either to love or to fate. Hut the intendant was a man of mark iii the colony, a man to satisfy the longings of any ambitious girl who nught wish for power, and such a one there was in the city of Quebec who was determined to have the intendant as her lord, that she, as his wife, n)ight rule in New France and punish those who had slighted her. Such a one, it is said bv Mr. Kirby, in his his- torieal romance. The (Jolden Dog, was Angelicpie des .Moloises ; and she had heard of the Indian maid at Heaumanoir. Murder is a trifle to such natures as hers, wholly absorbed by ambition ; and one night a piercing cry was heard eehoing through the halls aiul corridors of Beaunuinoir, and Caroline, the unhappy Algoiupiin, was founil stabbed dead. Not long since was to be seen her grave-stone in a vault of Heaumanoir, with but the letter ('. engraved thereon. It Is said that the unhap|)y Caroline was not of full Indian race, but that her father, by marriage, was an officer of high rank in the army of France. Such is the story, not the first nor the last, connected with this place, which has been replete with guilt and caused much sorrow." Quebec to Lake St. John. There are two grand side trips to be nmde from Quebec — that by the Ontario and Richelieu Navigation Co. to Chicoatimi, at tlic bead 96 QUEBEC TO LAKK 8T. JOHN. i! of navigation on the Sdgucnaji, and that by the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway to the famous huntiiij» and fishing grounds of the I^ake St. John region. Lake St. John is the source of the Saguenay, but between the lake and (Miicoutinii the way is barred by falls and fierce rapids. It is proposed to extend the railway eastward from the lake to Chicoutimi, which will make possible one of the most delightful round trips on the continent. Meanwhile, however, this essential link is wanting, and the traveler must make two trips of it. '* he distance from (Quebec to Jiobrrval, the chief town on Lake St. John, is 11)0 miles. The fare is $5.70; return, $7.50. The express runs through by day, which gives the tourist an opportunity to see the landscape. The journey, and the conclusion of tlie journey, have been thus described in a small book entitled Where the Trout hide, by Kit Clarke : " A vast country, crowned with a pristine forest, dotted with countless lonely lakes and i-ivers where the furred, the featherei', and the finny nations hold high carnival. It is a land of trackless tangled woods, of myriads of dainty lakes, and he who loves the stately soli- tude of nature or the music of rippliug crystal waters, will find here an absolute Utopia of delight, "This glorious wilderness, strange as it may appear, has been rupt- ured bv a railroad. For 200 miles directlv N. it sends its snorting iron messenger back and forth, and the majestic moose, the poiupous caribou, and the ruminant arnHH stand appalled at the hideous shriek of the brazen fiend. '* But they don't stand long — at least, not to any alarming ex- tent. " The path of the railway winds its tortuous labyrinth from begin- ning to end through a magnificent unbroken forest — an endless, wild, nmiantic, fantastic s[)eetaclc. For more than a hundred miles its path is carved between majestic trees, with no semblance of a dwelling, nor even a hunter's cabin to break the monot«my of its thrilling isolation. For 10 miles it finds its crooked way along the shores of the I5atiscan River, whose turbulent waters sweep over iuunense bowlders, and dash with unbridled fierceness between towering wooded mountains, while no indication of human life is visible along its entire intrepid course. " It is a journey to thrill the very soul of a man whose days have been hemmed by the busy hum of the noisy city, and a breath of the perfect breeze that sweeps in unencumbered freedom through the val- ley, laden with the odors of balsam, is health-giving and bracing be- yond measure and price. " ' What a beautiful view ! ' exclaimed an occupant of the car. " ' Give us two for that euchre first,' was the reply. " ' In the early evening we reach the journey's end, and, after sup- per, stroll upon the bluff and gaze enraptured upon a magnificent QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. .K)IIN. 97 sheet of clear, white water. As far as the eye can reaeh it rests like a mirror, as (luiet iind caliii as if never a breeze had riinpleil its sleeping surface. " What a delusion ! No ni')re insolent inland sea can be found upon the continent; none more roaring, saucy, and turbulent, none more audacious and tumultuous than this impudent slieet of water, now so bland, docile, and polished. Let but a few careering winds fondle its surJFnce, and the very essence of stormy savageness holds ferocious carousal. This is Lake St. John, the source of the marvel- ous Saguenay, and the home — the only home — of the peerless ouana- nish, the grandest game-tish, the most prodigious warrior that plows niche water." About 10 miles from Quebec, close to the line of this railway, is the lovely village of Indian Lorc/tc, where dwells a remnant of the Huron tribe. These Indians are civili/ed and self-respecting, and their vil- lage will well repay a visit. The station for Lorette is known as Indian Lorctte. Lorette occupies a breezy height 450 ft. above tide, and from this point of vantage we get an unrivaled view of (Quebec, Levis, Isle d'Orleans, and the valley of the St. Charles. IJeside the village thunders the picturesque cataract known as the Falls of Lordtc. Sixteen nules from Quebec we cross the lovely Jaajuis-Vartier River, already re- ferred to as famous for its trout and salmon pools. In the valley of this river is the village of Va1cartht\ which was chieHy settled by re- tired English officers and soldiers. In the village cemetery, deep in the heart of the Laurentian Hills, lie no fewer than nineteen of the veterans of Waterloo. A few miles farther and we reach Lake St. Josiph, a fail- water much frequented by Quebecers in the summer-time. The lake is 22 miles long by 8 miles wide, and the mountains that encircle it, clothed richly in birch and maple, beech and ash, come down to the water's edge. Hither and thither over its bosom, for the delight of the sum- mer traveler, plies the steamer Ida. The waters of the lake, of a won- derful transparency and tlepth, abound in black bass, trout, and the voracious "togue" — a species of thick-set lake-trout sometimes reach- ing 30 pounds in weight, and to be captured by trolling. There are good summer hotels cm Lake St. Joseph, Five miles beyond, the rail- way touches the shores of Lake Sanjvant, once famous for its black bass, but at present spoiled by over-fishing. At St. liaipnond we cross the river St. Anne, whose valley widens here to receive the charming village. St. Raymond is the center of a great fishing and shooting district, and may profitably delay for a time the tourist whose passion ; ' 1 i i \ 08 QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN. is for angling. The village is built on three plateaus, and contains the workshops of the railway company. A little below the village the river is joined by its north branch, which is known, on account of its severe and colossal scenery, as the Little Saguenay. About 68 miles from Quebec the railway enters the valley of the Bafiscan, whose course it follows for a distance of 30 miles. Here the scenery is surpass- ingly fine, especially at the points where the river is joined by the Miguick, and a little farther on by the Jeannotte. It is impossible to enumerate all the rivers and lakes which offer inducements to the sportsman, but those mentioned will be found sufficient for most travelers. In the same neighborhood is a chain of well-stocked trout lakes, leased by the Lawentides Fish and Game Club. This is a region of fish and game clubs, many of which have commodious club-houses on their respective waters. Among them may be mentioned the Tou- rilli, Little Sngttenaif, Lmc au Lard, Stadacona, Fin and Feather, Para- dise, Mctahctchouan, Jacques Cartier, and Lake Quaquakainaksis. In- formation as to these leased waters and the possibility of obtaining fishing privileges thereon may be obtained from the authorities of the railway, or from Mr. A. Waters, 22 Fabrique St., Quebec. About 112 miles from Quebec we reach the waters of Lake Edieard, which is more than twice the size of Lake St. Joseph and splendidly stocked with a peculiarly fine and impetuous trout. The lake is soniewhat more gen- erally known by the name of Lac dcs Grandes lies. It is leased by the railway company, and fishing permits may be obtained free by all patrons of the railway. There is an excellent hotel on the lake, the LaurentiJcs House, where camp outfits, guides, canoes, etc., may be obtained. The waters of the lake are traversed by the little steamers Swan, Ripple, and Emma ; but in its 100 miles of winding coast-line lurk deep bays and inlets, as yet practically unexplored. The lake is a veritable maze of islands, in whose labyrinths the heedless canoeist may readily lose himself. A hundred and thirty-five miles from Quebec the railroad skirts Lake Kiskisink ; and, indeed, all the way from Ljake Edward to Roher- val there are lakes iimumerable on either hand, chief among which may be mentioned Lakes Bouchette and des Commissaires. At Chambord Junction we come in view of Lake St. John itself. Here a branch diverges eastward to St. Jerome ; but we continue up the west shore of the lake 13 miles farther to Roberval. 1 1 QUEBEC TO LAKE 8T. JOHN. Lake St* John. 99 The Lake St. John Territorv extends from the head of navigation on the river Sfiguenay, at Chicoutimi, to the northern boundary of the province of Quebec, a distance of 220 miles, and from the sources of the waters flowing into Lake St. John, from the east, to the river St. Mauriee, embracing the valley of the river Batiscatt, a distance of 200 miles, the whole forming an area of 44,000 square miles, or about 28,000,000 acres. Comparatively little is known of this great country, with the exception of the valley of Lake St. John, which, within the last few years, has been colonized with great rapidity, and now contains a populatiim of some 40,000. The soil is almost universally composed of rich, gray clay, whose fertility seems well-nigh inexhaustible. The climate of the region resembles that of Montreal, being more temperate than that of Quebec, and with a much less heavy snow-fall. The lake itself, called by the Indians Pikoitagami, or " Fiat Lake,^^ is 28 miles long by 25 miles broad, but for the most part not more than 80 ft. in depth. There flow into it no fewer than 19 rivers, chief of which are the mysterious Peribonca, 400 miles long, the Mistassiui, 300 miles long, and the Ashuapmouehouan, the " river where they watch the moose," 150 miles in length. These are navigable for steamers for distances of from 10 to 20 miles from their mouths, after which they are obstructed by rapids and cataracts. The river OuiatchoKan is famous for its magnificent falls, which lie in a most conspicuous and impressive situation about a mile from the lake shore. This cataract is estimated to possess a height of 280 ft. All these gathering waters find an outlet by one great stream, called La Decharge du Lac St. Jean, which at Chicoutimi becomes the Saguenay. This stream is divided by Alma L«*land, for the first 8 miles of its course, into two branches, called respectively. the " Gmmle Decharge'''' and the '' Petite Dechnrgc^'' — the former of which divides with the Peribonca the honor of being the favorite resort of the " ouananiche." This famous fish, whose name is spelled with a truly (Jhaucerian breadth of variation, has quite eclipsed in reputation the other denizens of these well-stocked waters. It is thus effectively and exactly described by Messrs. L. M. Yale and J. G. A. Creighton in Scribner's 3Iagazine for May, 1889: " In appearance a fresh-run salmon and a fresh-run ouannniche do not differ much more than salmon from different rivers. The back uf if I IOC QUEBEC TO LAKK ST. JOHN. the ouananiclie is gi^een or blue, and in a fish just out of water can be seen to be marked with olive spots, something like the vennieulations on a trout ; the silvery sides are more iridescent, the X-marks are more numerous and less sharply defined ; the patches of bronze, purple, and green on the gill covers are largei- and more brilliant, and with them are several large round black s])ots. As the water grows warm the bright hues get dull, and toward autumn the rusty red color and hooked lower jaw of the spawning salmon develops. As the ouananiclie, unlike the salmon, feeds continuously, and in much heavier and swifter water than salm10, which includes the hire of birch canoe and two Indian guides. The Hotel Co. keeps on hand a supply of camp outfits, which may be obtained !)y tourists who wish to go into the wilderness. Such a wilderness may be reached by ascending al- most any of the inflowing rivers lor a very few miles front their mouths. Here are regions where not even the lumberman's axe has g<»ne, and where one may follow no footsteps more civilized than those of the Montagnais trapper. The close season for ouananiche begins on Septem- ber 15th, and lasts till December 1st. The return ticket from Quebec to Roberval costs $7.50; and for sportsmen, in parties, there are special reductions made, with certain privileges as to e'. U\. .';ver appears Isle d'Orleans, more beryl-bright the St. Lawrence titlu, np- i ■• lute and cloud-like the skyey curtain of the Montmorency Falls. When St. Anne's is passed the dark momitains crowd forward yet more forbiddingly upon the north- ern rim of the river, rising hundreds of feet, in places, sheer from the water's edge. These Laurentide Hills are sometimes naked, sometimes clad with somber forests ; but here and there they suffer a little valley in their iron fronts, and every such valley has its tiny French village and glittering chapel spire. It is a sterile corner, indeed, where the hardy and frugal hahUant will not make himself a home, and nniltii)ly till he has no cause to dread a meeting with his enemy in tho gate. These little secluded settlements are primitive in the extreme, and re- produce the Norman-French life of two centuries ago. The atmosphere of the Laurentian Hills is not hospitable to change, and most of the influences of mutability pass by on the other side of the river. A little below the foot of Isle d'Orleans we pass, on the N. shore, the promontory of Cap 7hurmeiite, towering nearly 2,000 ft. from the water's edge. Then come the granite masses of Cap Kotigc and Cap Gnbawie, more than 2,000 ft. in height. The sununit frowning over Smilt an Cochoti (surely the swine of the Gadarcncs, when they rushed violently down a steep place and perished in the sea, had no such leap as thi.s) is 2,370 ft. in altitude. Beyond Cap Maillard comes in the Bouchard River, up whose valley extends the populous village of St. Franfois Xavkr. After passing Cap Labaie, the steamer heaves to, to DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE, 103 meet the boats which come out from the thriving settlement of St. PhuPh Bmt. Some of the finest scenery of the river's nortliern shore is about tliis point. The valley lies open before the traveler's eyes. The rivers GouffriaxiA Afoulin open magnificent vistas into the strange country back from the coast, which seems a sea of mountain-peaks. The district is a volcanic one, subject to tremblings and shocks, and aljounding in curious salt and sulphur springs. It is said that in 1791 a peak to the north of the village vomited smoke and flame for several days, while the country round about was tormented with earthe broad horizons. He will not find here the beautiful wheat-fields of KanioMraska, the pretty and verdurous shores of Cacouna or Hiinouski; . . . here are savage and nnconquered Nature, and view-points yet more majestic than those of the coasts and walls of Hie ; precipice on preeijtiee ; impenetrable gorges in the projections of the rocks ; peaks which lose themselves in the clouds, and among which the bears wander through July in search of berries ; where the caribou browse in September ; wlu'i-e the solitary crow and the royal eagle make their nests in May — in short, Alpine landscapes, the pathless highlands of Scotland, a IJyronie nature, tossed about, heaped uj) in the north, far fnmi the ways of civilized men, near a volcano that from time to time awakens and shakes the country in a manner tt) frighten, but not to endanger, the nmiantic inhabitants." From Murray Hay the steamer crosses the St, Lawrence diagonally to Riviere du Loup (so called from the droves of seals, or lonps- marins, that of old freqiuMited its shoals), a distance of about 30 miles. Riviere du Loup is a thriving town of about r),00(> inhabitants, and DOWN TIIK ST. LAWRENCE. 105 18 the point whore the Intercolonial R. R, is joined by the TemiHcou- ata R. R. The town is picturesquely situated on high hind near the river-mouth. Near the town are the picturesque lili'ierf tin Loup Fulls, where the stream malies a fine pbinge of 80 ft. into a deep, t|uiet basin in the rocks. Riviere du Loup is a pleasai.t summer resort, and 18 well supplied with hotels and boarding-houses. Fix miles from Riviere du Loup is the famous siunmcr resort of Cacouna — piobably the most famous in Canada. It has adntirable hotel acconmiodation, fine beaches and scenery, and a remarkably cool, bracing climate in the hottest months. The chief hotel of Cacouna is the St. jAnvrence Hall, which accoumiodates 600 guests. The Mtumon Nounc is com- fortable, and very moderate in its charges. Still cheaper are the numer- ous summer boarding-houses. Anything but moderate, however, are the cab charges for the drive from Riviere du Loup to Cacouna, imless one takes the wise i)recaution to arrange terms before starting. Cacouna stands on a remarkable rocky peninsula nearly 400 ft. high. From Riviferc du Loup the steamer strikes diagonally across the St. Lawrence again, for the mouth of the Saguenay, passing between lied Isl- and vlxhI the Brandy Pots. Tadonsac, the ancient village at the Sague- nay mouth, lies about 185 miles from Quebec. It was visited in 1585 by Cartier, who saw many Indians fishing off the point, and heard from them a marvelous story to the effect that by " ascending the Sague- nay you reach a country where there are men dressed like us, who live in cities, and have much gold, rubies, and copper." In 1548 Roberval explored the river and left most of his company in its awful solitudes. The mystery hanging over the fate of Roberval and his brother Achille, who undertook another expedition in 1549, is not lightened by the intelligence that remains of an ancient stockade and post have lately been found on one of the wild rivers emptying into Lake St. John, and that these are supj)()8ed by some to mark the last resting-place of the daring but unfortunate explorers. One can under- stand the dread fascination that must have been exerted on those ad- venturous spirits by the Titanic gloom of the great river, together with the strange talcs of the Indians and the repiitation of one of the tribes, the Nasquapees, for marvelous and invincible powers of magic. These Indians are thus described in Mr. Murray's romance already referred to : "The Nasquapees arc one of the most remarkable families of In- dians on the continent, and of whom but little is known. Their coim- trv extends from Lake Mistassini eastward to liabrador, and from Un- ! I 106 DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE* f?ava Bay to the coast mountuins of the "St. Lawrence. They are small in size, fine featured, with nnld, dark eyes and extremely small hands and feet. The name Nasquapees — Nascjupies — means 'a people who stand straight.' They have nn medicine-man or prophet, and hence are called by other tribes atheists. Their sense of smell is so acute that it rivals the dog's. Spirit-rappings and other strange manifesta- tions peculiar to us moderns have been practiced immemorlally among them, and carried to such a shade of success that one of our IJoston Hmncex would be a laughable and bungling affair to them. Their lan- guage is like the western Crees, and their traditions point to a remote Eastern oiigin." In 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac by Pontgrav6, and a mere trading-post and iishlng-station the place remained till modern times, in spite of many attempts to make it a more permanent settlement. Now it boasts a good summer hotel, with a cluster of cot- tages for summer visitors. There is good trout-fishing in the neighbor- hood, and sea-trout are caught in the deep water off the shore. A point of interest near the hotel is the quaint old Jesuit Mimion Chapel^ built in 1746. Tadousac lies in a semicircular hollow among rounded knobs of granite and huge round hills or " mamelons " of sand. These gigantic sand-mounds, which rise in tiers to the ht'ight of 1,000 ft. or more above the Saguenay, are supjmsed to be the geologic beaches of the morning of the world, and to mark in their successive terraces that shrinkage of the waters by which the earth's surface came to view. A little east of the village lie the i-ed granite musses of Point lionge, and beyond them the white mai-ble of Afouliu 0 ft. in height, pile«l one upon the othtr, and fringed along the bei-tling to[) with wind blown pines. On the side overlooking KUriiity Jim/ the aspect of the cape is different and vastly moi'e terrible. The steamer rounds in so close to the base of the preci- pice that one feels as if he could toss a pebble up against the wall of rock; but for a time no one is so hardy as to attempt it — it would seem like sacrilege. The noisy crowd on the steamer's deck is hushed with awe as all eyes strain upward toward the dizzy height which seems to reel and topi)le above them, as if it would descend and close the gap. When the instinctive tremor of apprehension has somewhat passed away, a few of the passengers usually attempt to throw a stone across the in- tervening space. As the missile is launched vigorously into the air, it seems as if it would strike well up on the face of the cliff, but the eye is utterly deceived by the stupendous mass before it, and the stone cast by the most vigorous thrower falls into the water, as if repelled by the cliff, before it has traveled half the distance. Cape Eternity is per- haps 200 ft. higher than its terrible sister, but it deigns to slope a little back from the water and to clothe its sublime prupoitious in a 1 110 THE 8AGUENAY. wealth of forest green. After having been staggered by the imminent horror of Cape Trinity the eye rests with delight on the serene and stable grandeur of its colossal mate. Between the capes there is a remarkable echo, which is usually tested by blowing the steamer's whistle or discharging a gim. When the Flying-Fish conveyed the Prince of Wales up the river, one of her heavy 68-pounders was dis- charged near Cape Trinity. "For the space of half a minute or so after the discharge there was a dead silence, and then, as if the report and concussion were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash upon crash. It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung into r.fc under the tremendous din, and as if each was firing r)8-p()und- ers full upon us in sharp, crushing volleys, till at last they grew hoarser and hoarser in their* angir, and retreated, bellowing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded solitude from hill to hill, till all the distant mount- « ains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion." About 6 miles below Cape Trinity the cliffs part to make room for St. John\s Bai^, which has a little village at its head, and water shallow enough to give ships an am borage. Four ndles farther down flows in a second Little Saguenay Rivci\ which drains a wilderness swurming with trout and game. Then comes Riviere mix Canarih^ with a num- ber of grim and inhospitable islands clustered off its mouth. A little farther down is hie St. I.ouLs^ a ridge of granite half a mile in length thrust up out of 1,200 ft. of water. These deeps swarm with salmon- trout. Over against the islet, on the right shore, stand out the grand promontories of Cape Victoria and Cape George. Looking northward from this point one of the most magnificent views on the rivers is opened before us. Two miles below we are astonished by the sight of some low land, bordering the mouth of the Stc. Margwritc. which is the Saguenay's chief tributary and a splendid salmon stream. Passing the mouth of the St. Athanasc and Poiiit Crepe we come to St. Ktienne Bag, with a little tilled soil about its rim. Now the cliffs draw closer together, and the views are more restricted ; and leaving behind the PaMe Pierre Isles we reach a towering cape of granite called Pointe la Boule, which thrusts itself out as if to bar our way. Toward dusk we pass li^Anse a Ij'Eau, then Tadomac, and find ourselves once more upon the breast of tlie St. Lawrence, having descended '". ( ai Chicoutimi 67 miles exactly. From Tadousacto Quebec is a distance of 135 miles, and we traverse it by night, arriving at Quebec in comfortable time fur breakfast. QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. Ill To the Maritime Provinces by Rail. The favorite route to the Maritime Provinces is by the Inter- colonial Railway, which runs down the south shore of the St. Law- rence as far as Riinouski, then turns south and follows the valley of the wild ^f€tap€dia to the junction of this river with the Resfiffouchc. Crossing the Restigouche we are in New Brunswick. Another route to be described presently is by steamship via Gast)e and the gulf coa«t. The three Maritime Provinces of Canada are Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island, and the Intercolonial Railway traverses them all. It is a government road, admirably built and equipped, and most moderate in its charges. It runs through some of the best fishing and shooting districts of the continent and some very beautiful landscapes. The cars on through express trains are lighted by electricity and heated by steam from the locomotive. The head-offices of the railway are at Afoncfon, New Brunswick, and in- formation may be obtained by communicating with the Chief Superin- tendent or the General Passenger Agent. The fare by rail between Quebec and Halifax is $14; return, $21. Quebec to St. John, N. B , $9; return, $15.75. From Quebec to Gaspe, via the Intercolonial Railway, is $10.30; return, $16.23. Quebec to Moncton, N. B., $9. Passengers for the Intercolonial leave Quebec by the Levis Ferry. As the train runs down the St. Lawrence shore from Point Levis we get a last glimpse of the Falls of Montmorency across the river. Five miles from L6vis we pass Harlaka Junction^ and 9 miles farther 81. Charles Junction. The next half-dozen stations are named for as many saitits. The most important of them arc the lumbering village of St. Michel., whose church contains some valuable paintings, and St. Thornwi, a town of about 2,000 inhabitants, the seat of a convent and of Montmagny College. High over the town towers its great parish church. At this point there is a fine though not lofty cataract, where the Riviere du Sud falls into the St. Lawrence. These falls are the scene of a thrilling episode in De Gaspe's romance. The Canadians of Old." The villages of Cap St. Iffnacc, V Islet, and Trois Saumoiut are interesting for their connection with the same romance, the s-cene of which is laid chiefly about the next stopping-place, the romantic little village of St. Jean Fort Joli, 59 miles from Quebec. The next stoppage of importance is at the thriving town of St. Anne dc la Poca- tierc, the seat of a large educational institution known us St. Anne's 1 1 I 1' II 112 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PKOVINCES. V, ^V College, which is attended by several hundred students, and has an Af^ricultural College and Model Farm connected with it. The so-called porpoise fisheries of Riviere OueUc, the next stopping-place, have been already referred to. Here dwells the well-kucjwu French-Canadian historian, the Abbe Casgrain. In 1690 the cure of Hiviere Ouelle, at the head of a bund of his parishioners, defeated the Xew-Englanders of Hir William Piiipps's expedition. Here the railway leaves the shore for a tew miles, and when it rejoins the river the Kainouraska Jshinds are in sight just off the coast. The lovely village of Iuimoura.ska^ with its great church and convent, was a favorite summer res(jrt before the stream of travel turned to Cacoutm. The station on the Intercolonial nearest to Kamouraska is 81. Paschal. The next impo>'tant stopping- place is Riviere du Loup, which has been already described. This town is 1 IC) miles from Quebec. The traveler who wishes to go directly to the upper waters of the river St. John, and the splendid trout- streams of Ltike Tcniiscouata and the JSt^uattooks, may here branch off by the Riviere du Loup and Temiscouata R. R., which runs through the district in (juestion and joins the New IJrunswick division of the Canadian Pacific at EdtaumhtoH, on the St. John. Five miles beyond Riviere du Loup is Cacouna, already described. Then the next station of importance is Trois J'is/o/cs, 142 miles from Quebec. Here the trains stop twenty minutes for refreshments, and in the well-kept dining-hall of the station one may often feast on delicious fresh-caught trout. The village stands on a river of the same name, and there is a tradition in regard to this name. It is said that in the year 17(><\ while the river was yet nameless, a ti'aveler rode up to its shore and asked a solitary fishennan what he would take to ferry lum across. " Trois pistoles," was the reply. "What is the name of this river V " asked the traveler. " It has none," said the fisherman. " Then name it Trois Pistoles," said the traveler. Trois pistoles means three ten- franc pieces. At St.. Fabicu, 18 miles beyond Trois Pistoles, there is good trout- fishing from early in June to the end of August in snuiU lakes a mile or two fiom the station. The next stopping-place is at the summer resort of Bic, situated on a picturesque and beaiitlful bay. The hills around Ric are 1,;>(>0 ft. high, and out of their ravines descend, in many cascades, two snuiU rivers to mingle with the waters of the bay. Off the coast is IJic Island, once intended to be nuide an impreg- nable fortress as a harbor of refuge for the French navy. In 1801, ] c I t 1 ( • ' 1 i .1 li a I fi ii QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PR0VINCE8. 113 when the Trent difficulty threatened to cause a rupture between Eng- land and the United States, English troops were lauded at Bic. Near by is Vklel au Massacre, where once 200 Micinac Indians, while asleep in a cave, were surprised by their inveterate enemies the Mohawks. The Mohawks stealthily filled the mouth of the cave with dry wood, then set it on fire, and slew every Micmae that succeeded in making his escape through the flames. Ten miles beyond Ric is the important station of Rimonski, an incorporated town with a large and growing trade, a popular summer resort, and a port of call for ocean steamers, where passengers and mail from the Maritime Provinces embark or land as the case may be. Rimouski has good hotels, a fine Roman Catholic cathedral, a college, and important public buildings. In the Rimouski River and lakes in the neighborhood of the town there are excellent trout and salmon fishing. Rimouski is the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop, and is sometimes called the metropolis of tiie Lower St. Law- rence. Five miles beyond Rimouski is St. Anacfet, the station for Father Point, where outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots. At Sfe. Flavie, a railway divisional center 198 miles from Quebec, the railway sweeps off south wai'd from the St. Lawrence. There is excel- lent trout-fishing in July in lakes abotit Ste. Flavie. Presently it crosses the famous fishing waters of the Metis. At the station of Little Metis, 5 miles back from the St. Lawrence, one is within easy reach of a num- ]»er of excellent trout lakes. The best months for fishing in these waters are April and July, and the hotel, like the guides, will charge about a dollar a day. Two hundred and twenty-seven miles from Que- bec lies the little village of Saj/abec, near which we strike the waters of Lake Mctapedin. There are no regular hotels in the village, but board may be obtained of some of the villagers, who also may be hired to act as guides. There is good trout fishing in the lake, in the winter months through the ice, and also in June. The next two statiims, Cedar Hall and Amqui, 8 miles apart, both afford excellent fishing. The village hotel charges are moderate. At Cedar Hall the fishing is in Lake Metapedia and the Metnne Rive7', and the best months arc June, July, and September. At Aniqui the fishing, both for trout and salmon, is in the Amqui and Metapedia Rivers, and the best months are June, July, and August. Fourteen miles beyond Amqui is the famous fishing resort of Causapscal. Here there is splendid salmon- fishing in the Metapedia River, which flows close by the station ; and in Lakes Angus, Michaud, and CausapscaJ the trout are large and 8 m m 81 A] iii I 114 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. abundant. The Metapedia, like most other really famous salmon streams, is leased to private persons. Names of leaseholders, and limits of their respective territories, etc., may be obtained by communi- cating with the Fisheries Commimoncr of the Province in which the water lies. June is the best month for the salmon, while the trout rise best to the fly in June and August. Board is to be had in private houses. As the train winds for hours down the tortuous valley of the Meta- pedia^ the scenery from the car-window is enchanting. Sometimes close beside the track, sometimes far below, the amber river foams and darts, now Icapin;? a low fall, now swirling slowly in a deep and salmon-haunted pool, now laughing and rippling over wide, shallow reaches, where the white quartz pebbles shine through the sunlit wa- ter. The river is fringed through most of its course with birdi and elder .and moose-wood and mountain-ash ; and the hills vi\v.A\ -ise in majestic slopes on either hand, cleft here and there by the gorge of a winding mountain stream, are clothed richly with forests of birch and fir. In the autumn these hills are yellow as gold, and the heavy clusters of the mountain-ash berries shine along the water's edge in vivid vermilion. Along this valley the stations are few and far be- tween. The nearest to Causapscal is Pleasavt Beach, and then comes Assnmcttjuaghan. Passing Mill Stream we come to Metapedia, 290 miles from Quebec, and enter the magnificent valley of the far-famed Restigouche, the boundary between the provinces of Quebec and New Brunswick. In crossing the railway bridges here we get a fine view from the car-windows up and down the valley. From duebec to the Maritime Provinces by Steamship around Gasp6 and the Gulf Coast. The route between Quebec and Gasp^ is served by the steamer Admiral ; but on every alternate Tuesday morning a fine boat of the Quebec Steamship Company leaves Quebec for Gaspe and adjacent ports, and continues down the New Brunswick coast to Point du CJune, thence to Smmnermh' and Charlottctown in Prince Edward Island, and to Picfou in Nova Scotia, where she arrives on Saturday. This is a comfortable salt-water voyage, lying nearly all the way through waters that are rarely rough. The coast scenery is fine, particularly about the wild cliflFs of Gaspe. The fare to Gaspe is $10; return, I QUEBEC TO THE MAKITIME PROVINCES. 115 1 15. The fare to Pictou is |16; roturn, |21. These rates include meals. The voyaf^e clown the St. Lawrence as far as Father Point has been already described A little way beyond is the whaling village of Met'iH^ situated right opposite the strangely shajied Manicouagan Penin- sula, which fills up the spacious bay at the mouths of the great Labrador rivers, Manicouagan and Ouiarde. Beyond Metis is the fanning and lumbering village of Matanc^ whose broad, sandy beach affords delight- ful opportunities for bathing. Here flows in the Matane River, famous for its trout and salmon. Far off to the southwest, rising out of the heart of the Gaspe wilderness, we note the lofty summits called the Caps of Matane. The St. Lawrence here is over 40 n)iles in width, but it narrows again to 85 miles as we approach Otpc Chalte, 33 miles east of Matane. At Cape Chatte is an important lighthouse. Near here took place, in June, 1629, a naval battle between the English shi|) Abi- gail and a French war-ship commanded by Emery de Caen, which re- sulted in a victory for the Englishman. The Cape is named for Eymard de Chaste, Governor of Dieppe, who in 1()(>3 sent out an exploring and colonizing expedition which was led by Pontgrave and Lescarbot. Twelve or 15 n)iles eastward we round Cape St. Anne to the village of St. Anne den Monfs, the center of extensive mackerel, cod, and halibut fisheries. In the adjoining river, the St. Anne, trout and salmon lit- erally swarm. A few miles back from the coast rise the lofty St. Anne Mountains, whose chief peak reaches the height of 4,uOO feet. These mountains are a spur of the great (Jaspesian range called the Shick-shock or Notre Dame Mountains. The old chronicler Lalemant in 1(')48 wrote as follows : "All those who come to New France know well enough the mountains of Notre Pame, because the pilots and sailors being arrived at that part of the great river which is opi)osite to those high mountains, baptize ordinarily for sport the new passen- gers, if they do not turn aside by some present the inundation of this baptism which is made to flow plentifully on their heads." From Cape St. Anne to Point Pleurcuxc^ a distance of 28 miles, the coast is but a wall of towering cliffs. Eleven miles beyond is Cape Magdelaine at the mouth of the Riviere ^lagdelaine. All this region has furnished themes for the wildest legenils. The name PJcureme is suggestive enough in itself. The superstitious sailors and fishermen of these liaunted coasts tell of the j)iteous lamentations they hear — Lc Braillnnl de la Mngdelaine — which they ascribe to a damned soul m mmmmm 110 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. aeekint; to tell its torments. Ii is u.sually rtuj)poHe(l to be the soul of a murdei'oua wrecker — for some of the old (Jaspesian wreckers earned a reputation an black as that which clinf^s to the wreckers of the west coast of Newfoundland. Others again, of a more ecclesiastical turn of imagination, declare that the wailings are the penitential cries of a priest who willftiUy suffered a little one to die unbaptized. The most piteous of the tales is that of a wreck on this Iron coast in which only one person eatne to shore alive. This was a baby boy, who lay crying; all night in the horrible desolation, and died because no help came. A probable explanation of the weird voices may be found in the wave- eaten caverns of the cliffs, in which the sea moans and eric, incessar.tly. Quitting this grim haunt of mysterii-s we pass (traude ]'a(lec and come to Cforidornic, an important settlement, and the seat of a large branch of the great fishing firm of Robin & Co., which has its head- quarters in the Isle of Jersey. Then we pass the fishing hamlet of Fox Kivet% and find ourselves off Cap dea Rosicrs^ sometimes called " the Scylla of the St. Lawrence." Here lies the village of Cape Rosier, which, with the neighboring settlements of Griffin's Cove and Grand Grevc, are dependent on the great Gaspe fishing firm of W. Ilyman & Sons. At this point we may be said to pass out of the gates of the St. Lawrence, which is here 96 miles wide. On the cape stands a light- house of stone 112 ft. high. Due N., like a stern sentinel guarJitig the riches and loveliness within, stands the grim Isle of Anticosti, in the middle of the river's giant mouth. The isle is no less than 135 miles long by 40 in width ; but this great area must be regarded as hopelessly inV.ospitable. The coast is perilous, the climate cruel, the soil sterile. Within a year or so there were a thousand or more inhabitants on the island ; but these, having come to the verge of starvation, were lately removed to the mainland and kindlier surroundings. Now the only dwellers in this wilderness are the lighthouse-keepers. Seal-fishers visit the spot in the fishing season ; and the island streams abound with trout and salmon, as do its barrens with feathered game. Six miles beyond Cap des Bosio's, we reach the vast projecting promontory of Cape Gaspe, which thrusts out into the (tulf of St. Lawrence a towering rampart of sandstone 690 ft. in height. The name of the cape, and thence of the whole great peninsula, is derived f ron> the Indian word " Gasopion," applying to a lonely detached rock 100 ft. high which once rose out of the waves off the extremity of the cape. From its resemblance to a statue the habitants called this rock 4 a: '5m w li: IHMIi QUEBKC TO TIIK MAKITIMK I'ROVINCKH. 117 "Xflt Vinltc" Th« ceasoU'Ss batU'rinf? of storms bus at U>ngtli over- thrown this pieturc.s(|iic and histoiii- landmark. Seven milen and a half S. of Cape (iasp6 rises the pronumtory of Point St. Peter; and between them lies the deep inlet of (fnspe Jiai/, wliieh runs 20 miles inland, and keeps at its head the seeiire harbor of (ias|)e liasin. As we run up the bay we i)ass on our rijrht the perilous shores of Grand Grivc, on whieh the seas pih; furiously when the wind draws up the eoast. On the left shore of the bay is tiie villap;e of iJouffhix- town, at whieh flows in a famous salmon river ealled the iSt, John. Then the bay narrows, and round the natural breakwater of Sandy I^eaeh we enter the harbor of (Jaspe Town. This is a ^rowinj^ plaee, the heachpiarters of immense eod and mackerel fi.>*heries, and the chief town on the whole (Jreat (Jaspe Peninsula. It has between 800 and 900 inhabitants, and its noble and unique scenery, matchless summer climate, and the maj^nifiecnt trout and salmon tishing of the juljacent York and Dartmouth liiversy have attracted the attention of travelers. The town is possessed of a comfortable hotel, the fr'tilf House. Its fishin;z operations are chiefly in the hands of the frrcat firm of Le IJoutillier Bros. From its wharf a fortnightly mail steamer runs to hh/Himaux Bnif on the coast of Lahrador. Its i)iers are thronged with schooners and an occasional whaling-ship. The surrounding fields ai-e fruitful and well peopled, and petroleum has been found in the neighl)orhood by boring. On a hill overlooking the town are the guns of Fort liam- saif. The Indians who of old inhabited this regicm had made consid- erable advances in civilization, perhaps from intercourse with the Norse- men, who are supposed to have visited the country frequently in the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth centuries. In 1534 Cartier landed here and took possession in the name of the King of France, erecting a cross 30 ft. high with the Jfcur-de-lis upon it. In 1627 a French fleet of 20 ships of war and transports, carrying emigrants and a great quantity of stores for the colony at Quebec, was driven by a storm to take shelter in Gaspe Basin. Hither they were followed by Admiral Kirke with three English ships. The battle resulted in the utter defeat of the French. Kirke burned ten of the ships, and sailed tl)e others, laden with captives and treasure, back to England. In 1760, (lasp^ was taken by Admirable Byron. At one time the peninsula of Gas- pesia was erected into a separate province, and Gasp6 made the seat of government ; an honor which it did not long enjoy, as the peninsula, on account of its scanty population, was soon reannexcd to Quebec. 118 tiUKHKC TO TIIK MAltniMI'; i'U(>VIN(:K8. Ilunnin<; out (»f CJumix'' Hay the stciiiiicr rounds Point St. Potcr and crosses the mouth of Mai Hay, ".• miles widf, to the villaf^c of /V^vr. The port of IVir«^ may Ik; liUcued to that Salmydessian llaihor which .Kschylus called " a step-mother to ships." It lies open to northeasterly storms, and was foruM-rly called Iai T( m- ths TcnijH'-tcH. The villajre has between 4ii the cliffs of Mont Joli, on the maitdaiul, and of Honaven- ture Island, 2 miles out at sea, eouKrni the Itulian tiaditiou, i^iveti by Denys, that once there was no break in these perpendicular walls of rich-hued con<;lomerate, where the reds and bi-owus of sandston*', the brijfht olives and fjjrays of limestone, greens of a<;ate, purples of jasper, white (piart/., and dee|)-orau<:;e stain of iron blend toficther, and, seen u;;ainst brilliant blue sky and emerald sea, foriu u wondrous combina- tion of color; but the waves, with unbroken sweep fiom the open ocean, beat fiercely on this maivelous rock and have already battered down the three ijrand arches Denys saw. Seventy years before Denys, Chaniplain say.s there was only one arch, which was lar«;e enouj^h fcu" a sloop under full sail to pass through. At present tliere is but one openiiifiC, 4(» or 5u ft. hi>rh. Many remeuil>er the mi;.rhty crash with which the inuneuse arch at the outer end of the rock fell just before dawn oiu' niorniiiLt al)Out forty years anco, leaving; as its moninnent the great monolith that foi-nu'd its abutiut-nt. Slowly ami surely wiiul and sea are doing their work; they have begun another aperture, n(»t more than a couple of feet in diameter, through which the sunbeams fia.sh as the eclipsing wave-crests rise and fall. On the north side is a tiny beach where you can land at low tide on a calm day. It is like a prof- anation to tread on the ))ilts of agate and jas|)er glistening with wa' whose every roll tosses uj) nullions of pebbles for the sini to turn rarest jewels. Myriads of fossils give to the face of the rock, that a distance looks so hard and weather-worn, the api)earance of an ara- besque in richest velvet. In this little cove, shut in by the cliff from sight of everything but the water and the sky, with lu) sound but the cries of the coinitless birds that tenant the dizzy heights and the music of the surf as its thunderous bass dies away in rapid fugues to tendcr- est treble of clattering ])ebbles and dashing spray, we might sit and dream till the great, green rollers, through which a mysterious light \ i «1 f t Hi Gasiii' Kcsidi'iits rctuniiny from Church. 11 1 :Tl i'i ii QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 119 gleams on weird shapes of trees and grottoes, and castles and palaces, carried us off willing visitors to the enchanted land they reveal. Everywhere else the rock rises straight from deep water to a height of ;i(K) ft. At its western end it is worn to a wedge as sharp and straight and clear-cut as the prow of an immense ironclad, which it singularly resembles in outline, if any one imagine an ironclad 1,5<>0 ft. long and 300 ft. wide. Its top is covere;! with grass, but this is barely visible because of the immenst^ (locks of birds, winged armies ranged in serried order. Each tribe inhal)its its own territory ; the black cor- morants never mingle with the white gulls ; the great gannets and the graceful terns keep their own places. If any presumptuous bird wan- ders into the ranks of another tribe there is a tremendous screaming and flapping of wings to drive away the intruder. They come and go incessantly, circling high over the schools of herring, and plunging dce[> to seize their prey ; they swoop aroimd the cod fishers at anchor far out on the banks ; they follow the boats into the beach where the packers are at work ; they flit like ghosts about the nets when in the silvery moonlight the Hshermen go in (piest of bait ; but they return always to the one spot allotted to them am(mg the densely packed niass of white that from a distance looks like a bank of snow. Dui-ing a storm their shrieking is almost unearthly, and can be heard for miles. In 17V6 a naval battle took place off Perce Rock between a fleet of American privateers and the British war-ships Wolf and Diligence, in which two of the American ships were sunk. Our steamer passes now between Perce Kock and the towering cliffs, from 400 to 500 ft. high, of Bonavcnture Maud, which stands 2^ miles off shore. Nine miles from Perce we pass the fishing village of Cape Covr, and round the promontory of Cape d'Espoir, whose name on the tongues of the Eng- lish-speaking inhabitants is very antithetically corrupted into Cape Despair. This is a scene of wrecks, r.nd the fishermen say that some- times when wind and sea are undisturbed, there comes a vision of dread- ful waves rolling in upon the cape, bearing on their crests a spectral ship whose decks are crowded with people in the dress of long ago. In the bow stands an olficer with a woman in white clinging to his arm ; and as the ship is hurled upon the rocks, over the crash and roar and crying of many voices rises the shriek of the woman. Then all is quiet again and the sea lies still and smiling. Seven miles irom the cape lies Robin & Co.'s village of Grawl Rivet'. Then we pass Gra d Pahos and Petit Pabos, the little Acadian village of Xewjiort, and round Point Maquereau, where in 183S the treasure-ship Colborne was wrecked with the loss of all on board, to the great eiuiching of the Oaspe wreckers. Beyond Point Maquereau lie the quiet and lovely M 120 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PIJOVINCE8. waters of the Bay des Chaleurs. Our steamer turns south and runs down the gulf coast of New Brunswick, into Northumberland Strait to Shcdiac, Prince Edivard Inland ports, and Pietou^ where she arrives on Saturday ; these places will be described In connection with another route, and here we will make a short diverj^ence to point out . some pliices of interest along the f Jaspe shore of liay Chaleurs. A few miles beyond Point Maquereau is the settlement of Port Daniel. Then we come to P«.s/><'/«ac (meaning " broken banks"), an important fishing village of about 500 inhabitants, who are nicknamed locally Paspy Jacks. Here is a little hotel called the TAon Inn. In the neighborhood of the village one may pick up fine specimens of jasper known as (Jaspe pebbles. The harbor is protected by a natural breakwater in the form of a sand beach 3 miles long. The trim cot- tages of the village crown the cliffs, along the foot of which stretch the great red and white buildings of the firm of Kobin & Co., so often mtntioned. The hcadcjuarters of this firm, founded in 1768, are in the Isle of Jiirsey ; and the officers of the firm on this side the water are required to live in single blessedness. Paspebiac holds also an im- portant post of theLe lioutilliers, and its yearly export of fish amounts in value to over !^250,000. From Paspebiac to the Inten^olonial at Mctapcdia runs the Baie-des-Chaleurs Railway, a distance of lOO miles. Beyond Pasjjcbiac, near the mouth of the Bonaventure River, is the lit- tle town o\ Xcv) Carlisle^ which was founded in 17H5 by United Empire Loyalists. Next we come to Cascapedia Bay, with the villages of Alaria and Nero Richmond, whence steamers run across to Dalhousie. Near Maria flows in the Grand Cascapedia Hirer, on wliich are some of the most famous salmon-pools in the world. Here the successive Governor- Generals of Canada have their fishing lodges, and here was a favorite summer resort of the Princess Louise when she dwelt in Canada. President Arthur, also, used to come hither and cast a fly on these unrivaled water.*. lieyond Cascapedia Bay lies the important Aca- dian village of Carlefon, with a population of 1,083. The village is watched over by the lovely peak of Tracadiegash. It has a large con- vent, and extensive herring-fisheries. A few milts bevond Carleton we reach the fertile valley of the Nouvelle River, a beautiful stream of ice-cold water descending from the mountains. Its trout are famous for tlieir size and strength. Above the settlement the river is leased by an American. Continuing for a few miles over a range of hills we reach the Escuminac River, a smaller stream than tliQ Nouvelle, which \ QUEBEC Ti) THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 121 contains trout of unusual size. This may bo fished by arrangement witli the warden of the river at Esemninac station. A little beyond lies the mouth of the RcHtif/ouvhe, and either at Mctapalia, CamphcUUui, or Dalhouxie, we may bring to an end our journey in this direction. The fare by rail from Metapedia station to Carleton is $1.62; return, $2.81 ; to New Richmond and return, $3.81 ; to Paspebiac and return, $6.31. ! PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK. lii New Brunswick is first of all a lumbering, shipbuilding, and fishing province. She also has heavy agricultural interests, and her great min- eral wealth is beginning to find development. In shape the province is nearly a square, the seaward sides of which are washed respectively by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Bay of Fundy. The center of the province is yet for the most part a wilderness, threaded and dotted in all directions with lakes and brooks and rivers, and abounding with fish and game. Till about a century ago New Brunswick formed a portion of Nova Scotia or the old Acadian territory. In 1*784, on the influx of the United Empire Loyalists, it was erected into a separate province. The history of Canada may be said to open on the St. Lawrence coast of this ])rovince, not very far from where we entered it in our descent by rail from Quebec. It began on June 8C)th, when Cartier sighted Cape bJscwninac on the gulf-shore of New Brunswick. Coming from the bleak, forbidding coasts of Newfoundland, which he deemed to be Cain's portion of the earth, this harsh corner of Acadia appeared to Cartier a paradise. The wide water in which he found himself was Afiramichi Bat/. Not discovering the Miramichi itself, whose mouth lay hidden close at hand, behind long ranges of sand-spits, chains of islands, and intricate shoals, he landed on the banks of a lesser river, not identified among the thousand such that overlace that region with their silver courses. This stream rippled shallow over its gloaming pebbles, and swarmed with trout and salmon. The woods about were of pine and cedar, elm and oak, birch, willow, fir, maple, and tamarack, and the sailors' hearts rejoiced over such unlimited possibilities of ships. Where the woods gave back a little space, the ground was covered with wild fruits. Great, melting strawberries betrayed theiuselves to the lips by their red gleams piercing the grass. The bronze-green blackberry thickets were heavy with their yet unripened fruitage, and the wild pea 1 ' I 'i 122 PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK. trammeled hi.H footsteps with its ropes of purple and pale green. This prodigal land was populous with game. When wild pigeons in in- numerable flocks streamed past atid darkened the air, the heavens seemed as thick with wings as tlie sea and streams with fish. The men lay awake at night and listened with wonder to the noise of the count- less salmon passing the shoals. Every sedge-grown marsh was noisy with ducks. Plover and curlew piped clearly about the edges of the pools. And the people possessing this land were friendly and few. Bearing northward Cartier's weather-darkened sails were soon waft- ing liim over the fairest bay his eyes had yet rested upon. Its waters were clear and green, and scarce rippled under the steep sun of mid- ■ July. No reefs, no shoals, but here and there a dark-green island asleep on the sleepy tide. On either hand a long, receding line of lofty shores drawing closer together toward the west, and shading gently from indigo to pale violet. So great was the change from the raw winds of the gulf to this sultry sea that Cartier named it Bate des Chaleurs. Here they passed some days very sweetly in indolent ex- ploration, in trading with the hospitable Mi;.*macs, in feasting on seal- fiesh and salmon. So commercial were the natives of this land that they bartered the clothes they wore for trades and trinkets. Then Cartier sailed on to the north to discover the St. Lawrence. The fii'st attempt at settlement, however, was in the extreme southwest of the province, and was undertaken by (^hamplain and the Sieur de Monts in 1604. This attempt, as well as the successive immigrations of French, of New England pioneers, and of the United Empire Loyalists, will be referred to in other connections. The Restigouche. The name Restigouche signifies the five-fingered river — so called from the five great branching tributaries which spread abroad through Quebec and New Brunswick like the fingers of an open hand. Of these branches the lTpsal([uitch is a marveloi. rout and salmon stream, but dilficidt of access on account of its almost continuous rapids, and somewhat hard to fish successfully by reason of the pieternatural clear- ness of its currents. The ample stream of the Quah-ta-wah-am-quah- dav'ic has had its name providentially condensed by the lumberman into Tom Kedgcwlck. The course of the IJcstlgouche is nowhere broken b^ falls or impassable rapidt; and its strong, full, unflagging current \ .( A I c i I ! 'I ! If Il^ THE RKBTIGOUCHE. 128 makes it a magnificent stream for the eanoe-man. Its sahnon-fisheric» arc famed the world over, and are for the most part in the hands of fishinj^-chibs made up of wealthy Canadian and American anj^lers. The Restigouche salmon is remarkable for his size. lie is a very dif- ferent fish from his fellows of Nrpisit/nit and Mirntnichi. He does n)ore (»f his fighting under water, and usually takes the fly when it is below the surface. He has been niade the subject of a bright article in Scribner's Magazine for May, 1888. (Jigantic and magnificent as he is, he is capricious in his appetite, and frequently when he is most wanted he is not there. His fame has quite eclipsed that of the noble Restigouche ti-out, who is always on hand to console the disappointed fisherman. The killing of a Restigouche salmon is thus vividly described in the article just referred to: We pass around two curves in the river and find ourselves at the heivl of the pool. . . . First cast, to the right, straight across the stream, about 20 ft. ; the current carries the fly down with a scn)icircular sweep until it comes in line with the bow of the canoe. Second cast, to the left, straight across the stream, with the same motion; the semicircle is completed, and the fly hangs (juivering for a few seconds at the lowest ])oint of the arc. Three or four ft, of line are drawn from the reel. Third cast, to the right; fourth cast, to the left. Then a little more line. And so, with widening half circles, the water is covered gradually and very carefully, until at length the angler has as nnich line out as his two-handed rod can lift and swing. . . . This seems like a very regidar and somewhat mechanical proceeding as one describes it, but in the performance it is rendered intensely interesting by the knowledge that, at any moment, it is liable to be in- terrupted by an agreeable surprise. One can never tell just when or how a salmon will rise, or just what he will do when he has risen. This morning the interruption comes early. At the first cast of the second drop, before the fly has fairly lit, a great flash of silver darts from the waves close bv the boat. Usuallv a salmon takes the flv rather slowly, carrying it under water before he seizes it in his mouth. Hut this one is in no mood for deliberation. He has hooked himself with a rush, and the line goes whirring madly from the reel as he races down the pool. Keep the point of the rod low ; he must have his own way now. Up with the anchor ((uiekly, and send the canoe after him, bowman and stenuuan paddling with swift strokes. He has reached the deepest water ; he stops to thiid? what has hapi)encd to him ; we have passed around and below him ; and now with the current below to help us we can begin to reel in. Lift the point of the rod with a strong, steady |)ull. Put the force of both arms into it. The tough wood will stand the strain. The fish must be moved ; he nmst come to the boat if he is ever to be landed. He gives a little and yields slowly to the pressure. Then suddenly he gives too much, and ruqs 124 TIIK KKSTKJOlICIiK. Straight toward iis. Keel in now as swiftly as possible, or clso he will jT;ct a slack on the line and escape. Now he stops, shakes his head from side to side, and darts away aj^ain across the pool, Icapin*; hif;h out of water. Drop the point of the rod quickly, for if he falls on the leader he will surely break it. Another leap, and another! Truly he is "a merry one," as Sir Humphry Davy says, and it will go hard with us to hold him. liut those great leaps have exhausted his strcnjith, and now he follows the lino more easily. The men push the b<»at back to the shaUow side of the pool until it touches lightly on the shore. The fish comes slowly in, fighting a little and making a few short runs; he is tired and turns slightly on his side; but even yet he is a heavy weight on the line, and it seems a wonder that so slight a thing as the leader can guide and draw hiui. Now he is close to the boat. The boatman ste|)S out on a I'ock with his gaff. Steadily now and slowly lift the rod, bending it backward. A (juick, sure stroke of the steel ! a great splash ! and the salmon is lifted high and dry upon the shore. (Jive him i\w coup dc yr Ace at once, for Ills own sake as well as ours. And now look at him, as he lies tlwre on the green leaves. Droad back ; snuill head tapering to a point ; clean, shining sides, with a few black spots on them ; it is a fish fresh run from the sea, in perfect condition, and that is the reason why he has given us such good sport. The fishing rights to many of the best pools on the Restigouche arc held by gentlemen owning the adjacent shores, and it is usually easy to get permission for a cast in one or another of the pools. From the bridge the railroad follows down the S. shore of the Ues- tigouche a few miles to OamphcUton^ where there is a first-class dining- hall in the station. Immediately behind the village of Campbcllton rises a peculiar mountain called the Sutiar-Loaf^ about 1,000 ft. in height. The face of Sugar-Loaf is inaccessible on the side next the village. Its base on this side is strewn thick with mighty bowlders, which have detached themselves (m slight provocation. The view from the summit is remarkably fine. Yonder lies the park-like amphitheatre wherein the Restigouche and Metapedia meet, coiling hither and thither in bands of azure. Reyond, towering over innumerable lesser hills, the peaks of S(iuaw's Cap and Slate Mountain ; and over the shin- ing waters of the Baie dex Cha/eur.s the blue ranges of the Tnicadlci/anh in Gaspe^ the practically unexplored terminations of the Alleghany system. Rclow our feet the white cottages of Campbcllton shine in the transparent atntosphere. Within the mouth of the Restigouche there stood in old times a French town called Petite RochcVc. Across the river from Campbellton lies the Micmac settlement of Mission Pointy where the remains of two Mm' mm^^!^'^ _ mm A 5>i 1 I TIfK RESTIGOrcnE. 125 French vessels may still bo seen at low water. The Micinuc village stands upon a good coal-field. In 170'>, when the French (lovernnient was seeking to regain Quebec, 22 store-ships were sent out from France under a strong C(mvoy. In the gulf they learned the distasteful in- telligence that an K'lglish fleet had gone up the St. Lawrence ahciid of them. Thereupon they took shelter in the liuie den ChalcnrH, where they were followed by Adiuirnl Hyion, commander of the Hritish naval forces at Louisbourg. The Hritish squadron, consisting of five ship--, captured two of the Freneh vessels on the way up the bay. The French fleet, fleeing into the Reatigouche, took refuge tmder the batteries of Petite Kochelle, whither the English followed, and after silencing the batteries brought on a general engageuient. At length the explosion of a French powder-ship brought the battle to a close; and the English destroyed not only the whole squadron but the fortifications and the 200 houses of PrWe RochcUc. On the site of the ruined town relics of various kinds are yet from time to time unearthed. Nine miles from Cainpbellton the train stops at Dalhoume Junction., whence a run of 7 miles brings us to the lovely watering-place of Dalhounie, with \ii- famous summer hotel, the Inch Arran. Dalhousie lies on the beautiful and placid waters of the Ihm dcs ChaleurH. It is the capital of Resti- gouche County, and has a population of between 2,000 and :^,o«»0, with a considerable trade in lumber and fish. In the deep sheltered harbor of Dalhousie the boating and bathing facilities are all that could be desired. The Indian name of the Bate des Chcdcum is EvkcUinm Kemaachc^ which signifies " a Sea of Fish," anil is in the highest degree appro[)riate. The waters of the bay are brooded over by the charm of many legends, chief among which is that of the " Phantonj Ship," whose lurid shape is said to appear at times off the coast, and to be associated in some indeterminate manner with the omnipresent Cap- tain Kidd. Here lies the scene also of the brutal deed of Skipper Ireson, the subject of a spirited ballad by Whittier : " Small pity for him ! — lie sailed away From a leaking ship in ("hiilenr Bay — Sailed away from a ninking wreck, With his own tawn's-ptjoplc on her di'ck I ' Lay by ! lay by ! ' they calh'd to him ; Back he answered : ' Sink or swim ! Brag of your catch of fish agiiiii ! ' And off he tailed through the fog and rain." 126 THE RKfjTKJOUCHK TO MONCTON. il i From the Restigouche to Moncton. From DalhouHie Jiiiiftion to Jiafhnrsf t\w traveler <;i'ts soino iiohic and spadous views from tlic car windows. Ten miles from the .1 unc- tion irt ('harlo, l>esi(ie tlio C/inrlo /iivcr, a small stream wliii-li lias not been leased for several years, tliou,2;h it is a eapilal ti'dit-streani, and one may kill a few sahiion on it in the early |»art of tlie season. Six- teen miles farther on we cross Jtuynct Ikii<(t\ a famous fisliinj; stream, wldcli a few years ago was nearly depleted by {joacliers, but wliieli is rapidly regaining its old status undt r judicious protection. Beyond Jaccpiet River we pass the unimportant stations of Bilhduitv and Petite Hochc^ at the latter of which we cross the little Nigadou River. As we approach the fine harbor of Ihithui'st we cross the Tntiifiouchc lihxr. Then we come to the town of Hathurst, where flows in the Xc/iisl(fuU Jilver. The name Xcpisiguit signifies foaming waters. Uesidi'S this river and the Tatagouche, two other stieanis empty them.-elves into the lovely basin of Hathurst Harboi' — namely, Middh R'nuv and the lAllIe Xtpmyuit. All are fishing streams, but the fame of the lesser three is quite eclipsed by that of the Nepisiguit. The name Tatagouche is a corruption of the Indian Tootoogoose, which signifies Faiiy Hiver. The town of IJathurst is beautifully ^ituated on two high points, sepa- rated by a shallow estuary. It has a population of about 8,rM>0, and a considerable trade in fish and lumber. The chief hotel is the /vfirci/ llouKc. The settlement of IJathurst was begun in 1<');>8 by a wealthy IJaacpie, M. Jean Jac(pies Enaud, who took to himself as wife a Mo- hawk princess. Hut dillieulties arose between the French and the Indians, and the latter at length destroyed the infant settlement. The district was an old battle-ground of the Mohawks and the Micmacs. At different times settlements were begun on the harbor, only to bo destroyed by the savages or by American privateers. The present town was founded in 181K by Sir Howard Douglas. The reputation of the Xephiguit as a salmon-stream is seccmd (»nly to that of the Restigouche and Miramichi. It rises in a number of lakes in the high central [)latean of the province, sei)arated by only a short portage from the head-waters of certain of the St. John's chief tributaries. The course of the Xepislguit is tumidtuous and broken. Twenty miles above its mouth it i)lunges in four leaps over a magnifi- cent cataract 140 ft. in height, known as the (h-and FtdJx of the Xcpi- siguit. Below the fall the river glides through a narrow channel be- THE KERTKJOrCHK TO MONCrrON. I'i7 twt't'n high cliffs. Above its (Ubouchnnent it rolls over ii bed of greftt granite bowlders. Though the river is leased, and u good d»'iil of money ppent on its proteetion, its aalnioii-fisheries nre deteriorating, owing, it is said, to a system of trap-nets bel(>w tide-water, S(» arranged as to prevent fish entering the river. This ditlieulty, it seems, ean hardly be reinedied, as tidal waters are not inider the eontrol of the provineial authorities. Throughout the whole of its upper eourse, however, the river simply swainis with trout of large si/e, which are rarely disturbed owing to the comparative inaccessibility of the waters they occufiy. The best way to reach them is from the other side of the i)rovince, by a canoe trip »ip the TobUpic and down the Xcpisiguit from its source. This is a trip to delight such bold canoe-men as long for the complete wilderness an«l a little spice of danger. The salmon of the Nepisiguit are smaller than those of the Ilestigouche, but a very fierce and active fish. Five miles beyond Ihithurst lies Ofourentcr Juurtio/t, whence the Caracpiet Railway runs down to the Buie (hx Chdhnivx shore to the magnificent harbor of ShlppUjan^ the port of refuge of the Caiuulian and American ti.'«hing fleets. The fare to Cornqurt and return is !?'J.2r), This harbor is very peculiarly situated at the extremity of a cape which thrusts itself far out into the gulf. It occupies an important point in a scheme known as the ocean ferry, by which it is proposed to shorten the transatlantic passage. The idea is to rim a fast express between New York and Shipi)igan, swift steamers from Shipi)igan across the Gulf of St. Lawrence to St. (Jeorge's IJuy in Newfoundland, thence fast express again across Newfoundland to St. J<»hn's, whence it is but 1,640 miles of ocean voyage to Valencia. This scheme is yet in nubi- bu», and may remain so; but just beyond Shippigan lies the wide flat island of AHncoh, whose shooting-grounds are perhaps the best in the Dominion. The seasons are August and Septend)er for plover, Sep- tember, October, and November for geese, ducks, and brant. The shooting privileges of Miscou are held by Lee Babbitt, Esq , of Frcd- ericton, who may be addressed on the subject. Mi.vcou L'^Iand is about 20 miles in circumference, and is reached by boat from Caraipu't. The distance between Caraquet and (lloueester Junction by rail is about 50 miles. The district about Shippigan was once a favorite resort of the walrus. Between Gloucester Junction and the town of Ncwraittlc on the Miramichi, a distance of B9 miles, we pass but three stations, namely, 128 THE RESTIOOUCIIE TO :M()NCT0N. ill'' t: l-J- Red Pinr^ Bnrtibogue, and Beaver Brook. Newcastle is at the head of deep •Wilier navigation on the Mira'iiiclii. It is a sliip-building center, with a popuhition of between 2,o0() and 3,000, and a considerable trade in lumber and in canned and frozen tish. The chief iiotcl is the Waverhf. Five miles down the river, on the south shore, lies Chat* ham, the chief towa of the gulf coast of New Brunswick. Almost midway between them, on the same side of the river as Newcastle, is the lumbering village of Doyt/fastomn. Chatham is about 12 miles from the mouth of the Miramichi. Its popiilation is nearly »i,u()0, its harbor is safe and roomy, and its lumbering, fishing, and ship-building interests are large. It is the terminus of the Northern and Western Railway, which runs between Chatham and Frederidnn, and it is the see town of a Roman ("alholic bishop. Betv^een Newcastle and Chat- ham one may go by rail by way of CliatJuna Junction ; but much the more direct and pleasant trip is by the steaniers that ply on the river, though as far as the scenery is concerned the Miramichi, in its lower portions at least, has little to boast of. The view of Chatham is dominated by the lofty piles of the Roman Catholic institutions Sf. Mkhacrs Cathedral and Collq/c, and the Convent and Hospital. The chief hotels of ('hathani are the Adams Home and Boii tribu- taries, is comparatively unbroken, and ((ffers every facility for both fishing and canoeing. The N'or'west Branch is more ditfius salmon-pools are those on the upper waters of tlie Sou'west Branch, al)OVe lioitsfiHfn^ at tlie moiths of Burnt Hill IJronk, Rocky Brook, and the Char Water. Tor iufoiination as t<» fishing privileges in New Brunswick generall\, one would d«; well to commiuii- cate with the Commissioner for the I*iovince, .1. Henry Plmir, Es(|., of Fiedericton. An excellent canoe trip may be made by ascending the river iSt. John by steamer, canoe, or rail some distance above H W/«///« A 130 THE EESTIGOUCIIE TO MONCTON. JS-l • i and portaging over by a short carry to the head of the Sou'west Branch, whence the run is easy all Ihe way to Chatham. A good deal of history has been made on the lower portion of the Miramichi and about its mouth. The early settlers were usually unfor- tunate in their relations with the Indians. An interesting point is Beinihair''A Island^ at the confluence of the Nor'west and Sou'west Branches. Here once stood a flourishing French town, most of whose inhabitants perished by disease and famine in 1758. The destruction of the town was completed by a British fleet in 1759, and now its site is woods and picnic-grounds. In October, 1825, the greater portion of the river valley was visited by an awful calamity which occupies a very prominent place in New Brunswick history under the name of 77ie Great Miramichi Fire. This conflagration desti'oyed 8,000,00tti, liarnabi/ River, and Jiof/er,snfle. At Kent Junction the Kent Northern R. R. may be taken for the quiet little town of Richitndo, the capital of Kent County, near the mouth of the RiehiJiHcto Rivn\ The neigliborliood is intere-iting to tourists chiefly t'ur the typical Vcsidian town ot Si fj)ui.s, with its saeied well and grotto, 7 miles by rail from Ri' hibueto. The flne suniiiier hotel of Riehibucto, known as " The Beaches," is now closed. The name Richi- bucto means " the river of fire," and was applied not only to the river but to a fierce tribe of savages that dwelt upon its shores. In 1724 this tribe, "iiuler the leadership ol their chief, the (Jreat Wizard, made THE RESTTGOUCnK TO MONCTON. 181 ts >ll of li- an expedition to ^ar?.so and captured seventeen Massachusetts vessels. With this fleet they were sailing homeward in triumph when they were overtaken by two ships of war which had been sent in ptirsuit of them from Boston. In the strange sea-fight that followed the Indians fought desperately, but were defeated and slain to a man. After leaving Kent Junction we pass the stations of Wehlford^ Adanisi'ilh^ Coal Branch, Cauaan, and licny^s Mills, in the run of 45 miles which brings us to the city of Moueton. Moncton. JHoncton is important as a railway center. It is a prosperous and rapidly growing town of about 7,500 inhabitants, but is not a pretty town as regards either its situation or its buildings. It has a sugar refinery, cotton- factory, and the works and offices of the Inter- colonial R. R. It lies in a flat, inexhaustibly fertile farming region at what is known as " The Bend " of the PcdiU'odinc River, a remarkable tidal stream flowing into the Bay of Fuudy. The extreme variation between high and low tide sometimes reaches 70 ft. ; and the flood tide swoops up the channel in a foaming wall of water from 4 ft. to 6 ft. high, which is known as the Bore of the Petitcodiac. The shores of all the of the "I'tthiijuc, Hrecn Rivn\ and the S'o,and on to Halifax. Hy this course one misses the country between Amherst and Truro along the line of the Intercolonial, which is, however, neither beautiful nor historic, but interesting mainly for its great coal-mines and iron-works at Sjiring Hill and Ijondondcrry. The latter town, however, may be visited by a short run from Truro, and the former by the Spring Hill R. R. fiom Parshovo on Minas Basin. Having reached Halifax l)y this route n traveler may then take the Windsor and An- napolis R. R, to Ifii/l'/t, making, if he will, a detocr from Middletnn by the Nova Scotia Central to Bridiji water and Lnncnburif on the Atlan- tic coast. Fi'om Digby he may cross the bay to St, John and ihenee to Boston either by rail or by the splendid coast steamers of the International Steamship Co. ; or he may take the direct steamer, which runs in summer only, from Annapolis and Dighy t > Boston ; or he MONCTON TO ST. JOHN. 133 may do still bettor and go by the Western Counties R. R. to the eity of Yannoufh, at the extreme southwest eorner of Xova Scotia, and theneo by one of the tine new steamers of the Yarmouth Line — tlie Yarmouth or the BoKton — by a pleasant ocean voyage of sixteen hours to the metropolis of New England. \n le 16 From Moncton to St. John. From Moncton to St. John, a distance of 89 miles, the Intercolonial runs for the most part through a rich farming country, and, as we ap- proach St. John, we catch many beautiful views from the car-windows The fare to St. John is f'i.fiV ; return, *4. At So/ishnn/, Vi miles from Moncton, the Intercolonial is joined by the Albert R. R., which runs 45 miles through the small fishing and ship-building villages of Albert County to its terminus on Shcjtndii Bail, an inlet of the Hay of Fundy. HiUsboro is an important village on this line, and has a heavy p'aster trade. .\t Albert Mines was once procured the nu)st valuable species of coal which the world has known. This mineral, called Al- bertite, fetched enormous prices ; but the supply is now exhausted, and the village is falling to decay. The coast villager of All)ert County are largely engrossed in the shad-tishcries. The peak of S/ie/iodt/ Moioitnht, called originally " Chapeau Dieu " from its <'rown of clouds, commands a truly sublime view. The region it overlooks is rich in minerals and game. Five miles from Salisbury is the village of Pollrff River, with good trout-fishing and fine scenery at PoUett Falls. Five miles farther we come to the important village of Petiteodlnc (chief hotels, J/ausard House and Central) in a district settled by Dutch loyalists fr<..ii Penn- sylvania. Not far from Petitcodiac are the famous fishing waters of Canftnn River. Leaving Petitcodiac we pass small stations with the picturescpie names of Anayawe, Penobsquis, and Plnmweseep. Then we reach the growing town of Sussex, the center of the rich agricultural district of Sussex Vale, which contains the head-waters of the lovely Kenwbecasis, and was settled by loyalists from New Jersey. l»etween Sussex and Hampton, a distance of 21 miles, we pass the stations of Apohaipn (famous for its mineral watcs), Xortim, Bloomjield, and Passekeaef. Retween Norton and Apohacpii a new railroad luns north ward across the Washademoak through the coal regions at the head of Grand Lake. Hampton is a grooving town on the Kennebecasis, 22 ^i T 134 MONOTON TO ST. JOHN. inilca from St, John, and is a favorite suniiner resort for the people of that city. From Hampton the St. Martin's and Tpham R. R. runs about 30 miles southeast to tlie small town of -SV. Murtim or Quaco on the Bay of Kundy. Quaco is one of the chief ship-l)uildinfj; centers in the province; its harbor is excccdin<^ly pictures(|[ue, and is sur- rounded f)y lofty cliffs of sandstone. The promontory of Qiuico Head is an impt)rtaut landnuirk to Bay-of-Fundy navijjjators. Not far from the town of Quaco are Tt'ney\'< Lake and Mount Thcohuhl Laki\ famous f(tr their trout. Between Hampton and *SV. John the Kcnnebecasis opens out into a deej) and wide estuary of the river St. John., with both shores frinjrcd with wooded uplands in which nestles many a quiet village. The sum- mer climate about this beautiful water is, like its boatinj; and its bath- ing, not to be surpassed. After passing the stations of Xaauuff>rin, Roi/af, and Vidoria ; rates from two to three dollars a day. Horse-cars (fare 5 cents) traverse the principal streets. The city is well supplied with hacks — fare 30 cents between depot and ST. JOHN. 135 hotels, 50 conts per half-honr. Opcra-llouse, tlie Aoiidomy of Music. Chief dub, tlio Union. The foirv and biidfrc tolls, for oarriajio, are 15 and '2i' vents respeetlvely each way. The ferry leaves every fifteen ndniites from the foot of I'ritieiKs Sf. The up-river steamers of the Union liine h'ave Jiti/tnii/oirit daily for Fntlrrirfoii at 9 a. m. The Hteamer of the Hay of Fiinday leaves for Di, and ranks as the fourth eity of the Dominion. As a ship-ownimr eenter she heads the list. ."•H. John is a ei'eation of the Tinted Empire Loyalists. The site of the city is historic j^round. The first settlements at the mouth of the St. John Kiver were made by the Freueh early in tlie seventeenth century. The most stirrinj; episode in the early history of the spot is that of the feud between Charles La Tour, who had a fort at the head of St. John liar bor, and his rival D'Aulnay f and hunrinjr, Charles La Tour prospered in his fort in the St. John's mouth. The story of the disasters that at lenjxth overtook him has been thus told by the present writer in another work : "liut La Tour's chief good fortune lay in the possession of a woman, who appears to have been in all ways the fit wife ft)r a man of his stamp. Her ability, no less than his own, eontrilmted to his prosperity, and losing her he lost also, for the time, all his life-long elTorts had availed to gain. It was through the v'miietive jealousy of I-a Tour's brother-lieutenant in Aeadia, D'Aulni \ Charnisay, that an end came to these fair i)rospeets. Holding unn'sputed authority over half the territory of Aeadia, Cluirnisay had no joy in his pos- sessions while his hated rival was in prosperity near him. Craving the rich trade that flowed through the post on the St. John, aiul conscious of his strength at the court of France, he was soon in open hostilities against La Tour in Acadia, am. intiiguing against him at Versailles. As a result La Tour was chaiii<'fl with treason, and Charnisay was authorized to seize and hold him for trial. Hut La Tour was behind his walls and secure in the justice of his cause. He mocked at the royal mandates ami maile ready for a struggle. The city of Rochelle came promptly to his assistance, while (^harnisay drew re-enforceraents from Paris. In the spring of H)43 Charnisay suddenly, with a large force, blockaded the mouth of the St. John. Supplies ■4t im ■ST. J(JIIN. were low in the fort, and a ship was daily expected from Rnehelle. When this arrived it was sijiiialed to keep at a safe distance; and one cloudy night a i)oat slippeti silently out of the harbor upon the ebb- tide, InviMl)ie in the *^looin along the Carleton shore and beneath the rocky heights of Piiitridge Island, it passed under the very guns of the blockading ships, and La Tour and his wife were off for Jioston in the Roehelle vessel. The next devel<»puient of the situation was the appearance of ],:i Tour in the iuivbor, at the head of Hve New England ships; and Charnisuy was driven across the bay to l*(»rt Royal, and sharply punished on his own giound. Again he essayed the attack, closely investing F<)it La Tour in the hope of starving its defenders into siibudssion. Hut from two spies, who, in the disguise of fiiars, had succeeded in penetrating the fort, oidy to be unmasked by Lady Tf, however, with Mr. James White, Captain Peabody, and a party of fishermen, he repeated his attempt, and succeeded in establishing a little settlement. In 17*75, during the American Revolu- tion, an expedition of Americans from Maine plundered the village and destroyed the old French fort. Then in the gray morning of May 18, 17H;i, took place the "Landing of the Loyalists"; and on the grim peninsula of gi-ay rock arose, as it were in a night, a city of nearly 8T. .KHIN. 137 5,000 inhabitantH. Its first naiiio was Parrtown, whk'li, fortimati'ly, was soon (liscank'd for the present more dignified and musical a|)i)ellation. The nursling of the waters and the fogs, St. John has found her most relentless adversary in fire. In ISJJ? she sulTcred from this scourge the loss of over a hiindied buildings; and thereafter like calamities fell upon her from time to time, till the eliuiax was reached in the great fire of June 20, 1K77, which wiped out a fidl third of the city. This catastrophe has been described elsewhere by the present writer, as follows : Nine hours sufficed for the swallowing of l,(ir2 buildings in the fiery vortex. Tiie rocks held and nudtiplicd the furious heat till the streets glowed a^ a furnace, and the most massive structures of gianife crundtled to powder, melting away swiftly like lioar frost. The smoke was vonnted up to the tops of tlie steeples, ami there, driven on a level before the wind in lolliug surges, formed a lurid I'oof which shut in the perishing city. Tlie ships in the harbor were many of them burned before they could escape frctm their moorings. Coals and iiot ashes were rained upast was like a wall of hot copt)er until daybreak. When the fiames died out along the water's edge, all the city south of King Street had gone down. In a day or two the centeis of the streets and open scpuires were cool ; and as one walked, ankle- deep in the soft, white a-hes, at early moining, the scene was one of most weird and desolate gnviuleur. The sun shone over the da/zling ripples of the bay, over the silvered and soundless spaces which had been streets, and against the unclouded blue the thin smoke-wreaths rising from the cellars and masses of ruin took a soft saffron color. Here and there stood bleak, tall chinmoys, red and black and gray, or thin fragments of liigh walls, loop-holed and ragged. At intervals the silence was broken by the crash of some leasonry that had held itself up through the stress of the trial and now toppled reluctantly to its fall. In tlie center of the squares, and in the open country about the city, were hundreds of tents and sorry cabins, wherein reigned a sort of sullen tumult; and in spots a louder excitement, with piles of bottles and flasks close in view, testified that some ti-easures had been recovered out of the ruin by the etideavor of willing volunteers. On the site of one isolated li(pior-store, the debris of which still glowed most fervidly, stood a pitiable old figure poking, with a long-handled rake, among the ruins, his eyes gleaming with delight wheiu'ver an un- broken bottle was resurrected. St. John received prompt and liberal aid in her calamity, and rose from her fall with an energy and vitality that were marvelous. All that had been laid waste was rebuilt with added splendor, and the new city will compare more than favorably in its architecture with cities many times its si/.e. Hut even yet, with so much of he capital locked up in costly blocks, she feels too vivid re minders of that grievously staggering blow. M • r ^t 138 ST. JOHN. In 1889 the city of St. Joliii and the adjoinint^ciry of l*orlhitihiin In- stilnfio)}, a really beautiful struetun,' of red and j.n'ay sandstone. By a .short walk southward, toward the water, we reach the spacious MUitarii and Kjchibllion (rrouuih, formerly occupied by Hritish troops, but now the resort of cricketers and ball-players. h'huj tSipinre, already mentioned, is the inost popular of the city's breathing-places. Its three acres are set with shade-trees, and in the center plays a fountain. Just beyon «> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 2.5 •i" IM 1 2.2 1^ 2.0 M_ 11 1.6 V] %"^>^^ / Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WiST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 m \ :\ .V \ "% .V o^ ■ 140 ST. JOHN. of a rocky hill, overlooking the valley by which the Intercolonial pains access to St. John. At this point the valley is a deep and thickly- peopled ravine dividing the main portion of the city from the lofty line of Portland Ilelf/hfs, ainon^ whose barren rocks perch airily many handsome villas, and the tunbitioiis pile of Reed's Castle. In the valley lie the skating-rink, the Owen's Art .School, the brick Church of St. Stephen, and the tall, wooden structure of St. Paul's, familiarly known as the Vaffei/ Church. Besides the churches already mentioned, there are a number of other handsome ecclesiastical structures in the city. Conspicuous among the Portland Heights is the bald eminence of Fort //owe HUf^ surmounted by a battery of heavy puns, and command- ing a nmgnificent view of the city and harbor. On its naked slopes one may conveniently observe the churucter of the rocks on which St. John is built ; and one ceases to wonder that the hand of man has not yet reduced St. John to a level. Many of the city streets, as it is, have been blasted and hewn at great cost out of the solid rock, which in many places towers high and black above the roofs, and greatly re- stricts the citizens' back yards. In walking about St. John one is always going i,p or down hill — a circumstance which most visitors find wearisome, btit wlilcli perhaps accounts in some degree for the elastic and well-baluneeu figures of St. John woinen. Carlfton, across the harbor from St. John, and reached by way of the ferry, or tiie Suspension Bridge over the Falls, is interesting for its Lunatic Asylum, its Martello Towers, its sea-bathing, and its unusual ugliness. Far down the Carleton shore of the harbor stretches a long line of rocky flats, left naked at low tide, and adorned with the long, pict- ures<|ue gray lines of the herring-weirs. At the extremity of the flats rises a loftv white structure known as " The Beacon," which resembles at high tide a high-decked river steamer. A little way out beyond the Beacon lies the black, steep mass of Partriilgc Inhind^ the home of the fog-horn and the lighthouse, and the bulwark that shields the harbor from the rage of Fundy's waves. The chief business of St. John is ship-building, and the shipping of lumber and [)laster ; but besides these industries it has large manu- facturing interests, particularly in iron castings, and the manufacttire of nails, boots and shoes, cotton, and cars and machinery. The city also conducts important herring, gaspercaux, and shad fisheries. From the port of St. John run steamship lines in every possible direction — across ST. JOHN. 141 the Atlantic ; along the American coast to Eastport, Portland, Boston, and New York ; around the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia ; up the Bay of Fundy to Parrsboro and Windsor ; up the river St. John and its navi- gable tributaries. Of these lines, those of special interest to the tour- ist are the International S. S. Co., whose splendid side-wheel steamers run along the coast to Portland and Boston ; the Bay of Fundy S. S. Co., whose tine steamer Cittf of Monticello nms across the bay to Digby and Annapolis; and the Union Line, plying between St. John and Fredericton. The railways centering at St. John are the Intercolonial, the Canadian Pacific, and the Grand Southern. Up the River St. John. From St. John to Fredericton we may go comfortably and expe- ditiously by the trains of the C. P. R. R., a distance of 5B miles ; but the tourist should go by boat to Fredericton, and there take the C. P. R. R, for the upper portions of the river. To Fredericton by water the dis- tance is 84 miles, through such varied and beautiful scenery as has earned for the river St. John the somewhat exti-avagant and misU'a. The gorge is spanned at its narrowest portion l)y a suspension bridge and by a splendid new railway Ijrldge built on the cantilever system. Just above the bridges are the Falls. This remarkable plienomencm was described as follows by the pres- ent writer in the pages of Picturescjue Ciinada : This cataract is of interest even to one satiated with cataracts. It is worth getting up at daybreak to become acijuainted with, for it standi almost alone 142 UP THE RIVER 8T. JOIIN. I among waterfalls in being reversible. At one time it falls in one direction, in a few hours it is falling in the other direction. You go away marveling. You return, of course, to settle the matter finally, and behold, there is not a vestige of a fall. You look down from the suspension bridge, and instead of a seething tumult of mad surges as- saulting the gray walls of the gorge, you see a (>laoid surface, flecked here and there with gently wheeling foam-bubbles. This peace is but temporary ; it passes away swiftly. And it is not strange that vessels on their way up river seek to catch this hai)py moment of mid-tide. The whole volume of the great St. John River, which is nearly 500 miles long, and 4 or 5 in breadth half a dozen leagues above the city, at this point finds its way to the sea through a deep ravine a couple of stone-throws across, spanned by a suspension bridge. When the ebb- tide has emptied the harbor, the accumulated river-waters fall through this ravine as through a mighty sluice-gate. As the tide returns the fury of the escape is diminished, the river is gradually checked, till a level is reached on either side of the great gate, and quiet reigns while the antagonists take a breathing space. But soon the tremendous Fundy tide overpowers the river, bears it down, and roars triumphing through to brim the upper basin. Before it can accomplish much in this direction, however, its retreat is ordered, and the recovering river presses on its rear. This battle is fought twice every day ; and the river is so far successful that it holds its freedom, and can never be subjugated into a tidal river with drowned shores and banks of ooze. The St. John is able to guard its narrow pass. Were the gate to be thrown wide open, as are those of other rivers, the barbarous hordes of the tide would overwhelm miles on miles of the low-lying center of New Brunswick. 1 i Leaving the wharf at Indiantoicn., and passing the high limestone quarries of Boar's Head, we steam up through the narrows, whose pre- cipitous walls of many-colored rock resemble, in all but hue, a some- what diminished bit of Saguenay scenery, though the deep river flowing between them teems with traffic. The cliffs are jagged and splintered and piled up magnificently ; and we recall the theory that the path wo are now following is not the outlet by which the St. iFohn in old times sought the sea. It is surmised that the river had anciently two mouths, the one leading from Grand Bay through the low lands west of Carle- ton, the other from the Kennebecasis down through the " Valley " be- tween St. John and the Portland Heights. The present channel seems to have been formed by a violent rending asunder of the hills, which was probably accomplished by the same terrific convulsion which raised all the coast west from St. John 30 ft. above its former level. The Indians say that the Great Spirit once grew angry with the river for its arrogance and closed the passes against it. They have another UP THE RIVER 8T. JOHN. 143 legend to the effect that a great beaver appeared upon the earth and in one night built a dam across the outlet and drowned all the people of the inland regions. The country about the mouth of the river (called by the Etchemins "Oolastook" and by the Micmaca "Ouangondy") is rich in traditions of the demigod GluskAp, who^ had his chief abode here and called it Mcnagwes. MENAGWES. GluHkftp, the friend and father of his race, From MenagAVCB, hit) kindly dwelling-place, With help in need went journeying three daye' space; And Menagwes, left empty of hie arm. Naked of that wise might, itH Hhicld from harm, LeF.iicu on hie name and dreaded no alarm. But evil spirits watched his outward path- Such enemies a gooii>).'i . LocHHtH (;ruting, one cock crowing, Few Ihin^H moving tip cto. There they found a setuKincr stranded on the nnul, and thia easy prize tiiey eaptured ; txit the si^ht of the fort dis. niayed tlu'm, and they altered tlieir intenticui of earryin^ it by storm. Tlie seluMjiior tliey took away and sold. Tlioy were afterwaid eom- pellcd to nialte restitutiim to the vessel's owners ; hut, this done, a lenient Govennnent indulgently ovurlooked their folly. Just above Mauj^erville, on the opposite shore, lies the eounty town of Sunbury, the villaj^e of (Jrotnocfo, at the mouth of the Oronioeto River. Here of old stood a fort for proteetion against the Indians. The OroiMoeto is a deep and narrow stream, n.ivigablu for small eraft a distanee of 22 miles. On its upper waters, and particularly in Oro- nioeto Lake, there is excellent trout-fishing. In its luwi-r reaches pick- erel abound. OtT the mouth of the river lie Tliatch Island and the great meadowy expanse of Oromocto Island. Here we are 74 miles fiom St. John and about 10 nules from Fredericton. Five miles farther up the boat ealls at the interminable booms of (rhisicr^tt^ where logs from np river are put t<)gether into rafts to be towed to St. John. Along toward tlie midillc of the afternoon we catch sight of the smoke which rises over "The Mills," a ndle below Frcderictcm. Then the river widens out, and over its shining expanse we see the long bridges, the spires, and the billowy foliage of the city of elms, Fredericton, which is called by New-Hrunswickers, in affectionate banter, the " Celestial City." Fredericton* The population of Fredericton (estimated) is 8,000. The chief hotels are the Qnei'n\s and Barker I/onse. Cab fares arc 25 cts. for a course within the city. The livery staldes of Fredericton are good and much patronized, and the charges very moderate. The fare between Freder- icton and St. John by boat is only #1. F'are by rail to Woodstock, $2; (Jrand Falls, $a.80 ; Edimindson, |4.80; return, $'.i, |5.7o, and 17.20. Fare to St. Stephen, ifilJ.lS ; St. Andrews, $3.25 ; return, |;4.75 and 14.90. The history of Fredericton begins at the mouth of the Naahwaak, an important tributary of the St. John, which flows in immediately op- posite Fredericton. Hither in 1692 came Villebon, froin the Jemseg, to be nearer his Melicite allies. Here he built a large and well-stock- aded fort, which in the autumn of 1696 was attacked by the New-Fing» landers, under Colonel Hawthorne and old Benjamin Church. Villebon, 148 FKKDKKKTnN. belnR forcwajnenlhii»iaHin within thv fort. The Ncw-Kri^landcrs landed with throe cannon near the S. Hhoreof the Mticuni, on a point now rnneh freqiH'nted by the Hehoolboys of Fre«lerieton in the eheiry season. Truly it is a eharniinj^ s|K)t, and its eherries are marvelously great and sweet and abinidant. Hut the New-Englanders found Utile pleasure therein. The tire fn»ni the fort by day dismounted one of their fjiuis, and suffered them not to work the others with any dej^ree of etmifort, while by nii^ht a plentiful hail of grape upon all such wateh-Kres as they lighted drove them to sleep unwarnied and wet, whence eanie in the morning much rheumatism and eom))laining. The undertaking became unpopular in the invaders' camp, and, under cover of the next night, they forsook it and Hed. In the autumn of KlUH the garrison was removed to Fort La Tour, which had been rebuilt at the mouth of the St. John, and after Villebon's death in 17 the Nashwuak fort was demolished. Nothing now remains to remin//?- eerM* St/uare with its lawns and tennis-grountls and battery of little cannon, the gray-stono buildings of the Otticers* Quarters, the hand- some new ]'ost-(MHce and Custom-IIouse, the Barracks and I'aradu (iround, the f^raceful red brick structure of the Provincial N(»rnial School, and the stiff brick block of the new (Mty Hall, with its clock- tower over the front and a ludicrnce owned by Louis Philippe. On the side of the block facing St. John St. is the handsome purple sandstone structure containing the Gov em- ment offices. In winter, when the Provincial Parliament is in session this is a busy quarter of Fredericton. At the extreme upper end of the city are the new Victoria Jfoxpi- ial, and the severe stone pile of (wovemmfnt House in its spacious grounds. Scattered through the city are many churches, of v-rious de- nominations. The most noticeable of these are the handsome new stone structures belonging to the Baptists and the Presbyterians, standing 150 FREDERICT<1N. within a block of each other on York St. ; and tlie exquisite little parish church, called Christ Thurch, on the corner of (ieorge and Westmore- land Sts. This edifice is of an (Hd Knglish pattern, and carries a silvery chime of three hells. IJaek of Fredericton rises a line of wooded heights, whereon are some good private residences, and the massive old building of the New lirunswick University, crowning a succession of terraces. This was of old King's College of New Brunswick, estab- lished by royal charter in 1828, uniler the auspices of Sir Howard Dou^d:vs. It is now a Provincial Institution, and is doing gfxxl work under the management of President Harrison. J^rom its cupola we get a wide and lovely view. At our feet lies the city in its billows of green, hounded by the broad and shining are of the St. John. Above and below extends the river, dotted in the one directirm with islands, in the other with the sails of wood-boats. Straight across opens the fair Xashwaak Valley, with the village of Marysville in the dis- tance. ()|)posite the upper end of the city we mark the mouth of the Nashwaaksis, or little Nashwaak, which boasts a pretty cataract some 10 or 12 miles from its mouth. On the outskirts of Fredericton, half a mile above (fovermnent House, stands a picturesciue old mansion called " The Hi rmitaif »■,'''' which is rapidly falling to ruin. In the gsiy old days of Hritish mili- tary and "family compact" rule, "The Hermitage" was a famous social center. Xow its deserted chambers are romantically supposed to Ite haunted, and its spacious and well-wooded grotinds are a favorite resort of the city's picnic parties, ('ontinuing on past The Hermitage, a very lovely drive extends up the river shore some 4 m. or more to the village of Sprh)tjhlll. Another interesting drive is across the river to (libson, and thence up the valley of the Nashwaak about 3 miles to the growing town of Mnrt/svillf^ the creation of the gigantic cotton and lumber mills of Alexsinder Gibson. This trip may be made, if one prefers, by the Northern and Western R. R., which runs through the town on its way to the Miramichi and its salmon-pools. After the vast cotton-mill, the chief point of interest in Marysville is the gor- geous little church erected by Mr. (iibson. With all the beautiful and accessible waterways that surromid it, no wonder Fredericton is the very home of the birch-bark canoe. Her inhabitants easily ecpial, and often excel, the Indians in the manage- ment of this fascinating little craft. An easy and charming canoe- trip may be taken from Fredericton down the river to St. John, an FREDERirrON TO WOODSTOCK. 151 indolent voyage, with no fishing or hard paddling to do, and villages all along the way to supply provisions. Fredericton to Woodstock. In spring and auttunn, when the river is high, the "stcrn-whool " steamer Florevctville plies between Frederieton and Woodstock^ a distance of fiO miles. All the points of interest along this route will soon be accessible by rail, as a line is under construction along the western shore of the St. John. It traverses the populous settlements of Prince William and Queensbury, ])eopled by descendants of dis- banded loyalist soldiers. The finest scenery on the trip is at the mouth of the Pokiok Hiver, by which the waters of Lake (Jeorge find outlet to the St. .Tohn. The Pokiok Fails arc abridge we steam slowly into the progressive little town of Woodstovky the shire-town of Carleton County, and the chief commercial center on the river above Fredericton. Woodstock has a good hot<'l in the Gihson llouae. The town is well situated on the uplands at the junction of the Maduxnakcag stream with the St. John, and has a rich farming country behind it supplying a large local trade. Its ;>,(KlO or so of inhabitants are plucky and «'nter- prising, and have recovered l>ravely from the losses to which they have been subjected i)y numeroi:s lires. Around the mouth of the Maduxna- kcag is a cluster of saw-mills. A short distance above the town are the now abandoned iron-mines, where a peculiarly dense and hard quality of iron was formerly extracted. The village of I'pper Woodstock is familiarly and disrespectfully known as " Hardscrabble." The whole district is peculiarly adapted to the growth of grain and fruit, and is sometimes called "the miles from Woodstock) and Peel ( 1 7 miles) we come to the station of hlornurvUh' ['!'.) miles). The village lies across the river, and is reached by a ferry. Its situation is remarkably pietur- es(pie, on the wind-swept crest of a high ndge. A few miles southwest of Florenceville rises Mitm Hill, a steep mountain about 1,2(M» ft. high, THE UPPER ST. JOHN. 153 which overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of controversy during the old border troubles, and its summit was cleared by the commissioners of 1794. Beyond Florenceville the charm of the landscape deepens. The railway keeps close to the river. From the village of Kent, 3 miles farther, where we cross the Shikiti- hauk stream, a portajre of 16 miles leads to the upper waters of the southwest Miramichi. (Juides and canoes for this trip may be engaged in Fredericton. Massing Bath Station, and the Brook Munquauk, we come to Muniac, 15 miles from Florenceville, wliere the Muniac stream, descending through a rooky glen, brawls beneath the track. In this neighborhood there is a peninsula jutting out from the river shore, around which the channel makes a long defour, while the portage across the isthmus is shoit and easy. The Melicites say that once upon a time, when an army of their enemies was encamped on the shore op- posite the point, preparing to attack the villages below, which had been left defenseless while the bi'avcs were off on the war-path, a clever ruse was i)racticed here which saved the villages. Six Melieite warriors, re- turning down river in their canoes, discovered the invaders' camp and took in the situation. First one canoe paddled swiftly down, keeping to the safe side of the river. Then at a short interval came the second, and after another brief space the third. Meanwhile the two Indians in the first canoe, as soon as they were well out of sight around the point, landed, carried their craft in haste across the portage, and em- barked again to repeat the performance. The other canoes did like- wise in their turn ; and this was kept tip the greater part of the day, till the hostile band, looking on with lively interest from the farther shore, were so impressed with the numbers of the returning Melieite warriors that they discreetly withdrew to seek some easier adventure. At the little milling village of I'erfh, 49 miles from Woodstock, the railroad crosses the river to Andovcr (51 miles), a village of 400 or 500 inhabitants. This is the headcjuarters for fishermen who are going to make the Tobicpie trip. There is a snug and homelike country hotel here, whose proprietor, Mr. J. A. Perley, will furnish information as to guides, and so forth. A mile and a half above Andover, r. It is peculiarly awe-inspiring when the logs are riuming through, and one may see mighty timbers shattered into fragments, while others at times shoot high into the air in the fury of their reV>ound. From the foot of the cataract the river is volleyed off, as it were, with an ex[)losive force that hurls huge foam-white masses of water into the air. The bottom of the terrific trough is stmietimes bared for a moment as the river sways madly up one or the other of its imprisoning walls. The gorge is about a mile in extent, and walled l)y contorted cliffs frtmi 100 to 250 ft. in height. The rocks are dark Upper Silurian slate, whose strata have been twisted and turned on end, and their seams filled with white interlacing veins of ([uartz. Throughout the extent of the gorge there are several lesser falls, which are swallowed uj) in one roaring incline when the river is at freshet. One descends int(» the gorge by a series of precipitous stairs. On the wild and chaotic floor (me may clamber some distance, and visit " the Cave," whose jaws remind one of the mouth of a gigantic alligator; one may get a near view of the curious ''Coffee-Mill,'' where a strange eddy, occupying a round basin beside the channel, slowly grinds the logs which it succeeds in capturing as they dash ■<»• 156 THE GRAND FALLS OF THE ST. JOHN. past. '• The Wells " are a strange phenomenon, smooth, circular pits several feet in diameter, bored perpendicularly deep into the rock, and leading nowhither. It will take some days to exhaust the attractions of the gorge. At its lower end, reached by a wonderfully picturesque and precipitous road from the village, is the lovely, quiet expanse of the Lower Hasin, where logs are caught and made up into rafts for the voyage down to Fredericton. At low water one may be poled in a lumberman's " bateau " for a short distance up the gorge to the foot of the towering cliff called Sject was to BUT prise the chief village of the Melicites at Aukjiak, far below Grand Falls. Descending the upper reaches of the river, they took a little village at the mouth of the Madawaska, whose inhabitants they slew with the exception of two women, whom they saved to pilot them down the river. The women guided them safely through some rapids. Toward evening they told their captors that the river was clear of falls and rapids for another day's journey, after which they would have to make a portage. The Mohawks lashed together their fleet of canoes, placed their captive guides in the middle, and resigned themselves to the current. The falls are buried so deep in tlie gorge that, as you approach them from up river their roaring is not heard until one is close upon them. At the first sound of it some of the watchers in- quired the cause, but were assured by the captives that it was only a tributary stream falling into the main river. As the fleet swept round the point, and quickened for the plunge, and the full blast of the cataract's thunder roared suddenly in their ears, the Indians sprang in desperate horror to their paddles. But it was too late; and the ABOVE TlIK (iKANI) FALLS. 157 women raised their shrill war-cry as they swept with their captors into the gulf, ami saved their tribe. Above the Grand Falls. Just above Grand Falls the railway crosses once more to the right bank of ihe river, and enters the Acadhin French county of Mada- waska. About this point the river becomes tlie boiuidury-line between the I'nited States and Canada. Fourteen miles from (irand Falls is the Acadian village of >Sy. I^onnrd. Four miles beyond is the mouth of lirniid li/iH)', where one may begin a tine hunting, fishing, and canoe- ing trip. (Juides and canoes may be brought from the .Melicite village, at the Tobique mouth, or they may be hired from one or another (»f the Acadian settlements. The route lies by poling up (irand River to the mouth of the Waagansis, and up that meager stream througli dense and interminable alders to its source in the water-shed dividing the streams of the St. John from those of the Jiesti^onchc. A portage of 5 or 6 miles leads to the Waagan, a wretched stream down which one forces his way till he comes out on the lovely and well-stocked wa- ters of the "Five-fingered River." On this trip the present writer heard from his Indians the following picturescpie legend, which may be called a Melicite " Passing of Arthur" : THE DEPAKTINO OF (JLUSKAP. It is HO long ago ; and men we!l-niKh Forgot what gladness was, and how the earth (Jave corn in plenty, and the rivers fisli. And the woods meat, before he went away. His going was on this wise : All the works And words and ways of men and beasts became Evil, and all their thoughts continually Were but of evil. Then he nuide a feast. Upon the shore that is beside the sea That takes the setting sun, he ordered it, And called the beasts thereto. Only the men He called not, seeing them evil utterly. He fed the panther's crafty brood, an■ /.>#''■ ?> 4i •A AUOVK THK (JKAM> FAIJ.S. l.VJ Si'hool of the Sacred Heart. Six miles farther we cross the luoiitli of the Madawaskn River, iiiul enter the little town of Kilniun(lnfin), .some- times ealled Little Falls, from the low cataract l>y which the .Matla- wnska, de.scemliii^ throuj,'h a narrow ravine, plum^es to meet the St. John. The chiif hotels (»f Kdmundston are I'hf Atlnmx and the Hold linhhi. The Tciniticonatu /»'. A', runs 90 miles, alont,' the Madawaska Itiver, L(d\ 7V//j/.sro««A/, and over the divide to Kiviere dii Loup. The best view of Kdinundston is ohtaine I from the top of the old Idoik- hou&c. At thi.s point the best of tishinj^ waters lie all aliout us. Within easy reach are the SI. Ffaiicln, with its lakes Wela.-lookawaf^amis, IVkawecka^omic, Pohencj^amook, well stocked and little tislied. Across the river is the round trip by the K:ij.'le Lakes and Kish River to the American villajic of lM»rt Kent. Into the Tciidscouata Lake flows the Cabineau, a noble trout-stieam ; and the Tufm/i^ the outlet of the S((uattook and Tuladi chain of lakes. I ■A ?1 Routes for the Sportsman. One of the best round trips in New IJrunswick, or, I should say, in the Maritime Provinces, is what is known as the "Scpuittook trip"; much of which, indeed, lies in the province of tiuebee. The route is as follows: Take the canoes (either polinj,' them up sti'eam or puttiuj^ them on a fiat ear) uj) the Madawaska, ir» miles, to a place called (Jrif- fin's. Then |)orta}:e 5 miles to the ugly little pool ealled Mud liake, with its desolate and lireravajicd shores. From Mud Lake descend BcanMcji Bi'0'>k (pronounced Uazzily), catching a few trout by the way, and scpieczing through many alder thickets, till the Sifuatlook Jiiver is reached. Run with thrilling speed down the lapids of this river, till you come to Bi(/ Sijualtook Lake., where one should atop and fish at the outlet. P'rom this down there is fishing everywhere. Passing through Second, Third, and Fourth Scjuattook liakes — Second Lake known as "Sugar-Loaf Lake," from the fine peak that overshadows it — the flor- twi branch is reached, which slioidd be ascended for the sake of the wonderful abundance and good size of its trout. The Scpiattook River enters the Tuladi LakcHy two almost contiguous sheets of wilderness water, wherein the great lake-trout, called " Tuladi," are numerous, and to be taken by trolling. Out of the lower Tuladi Lake flows the Tuladi River, whereon are the Tuladi Falls, round whieh, exeept at cer- tain stages of the water, one must make a portage. The falls are just I 100 UOIITKS FOR TIIK HI'ORTHMAN. below the lake. ThentT tlu'ie In u t'lrar r«m, with swift but not dun- ^croiiH wiittT, to liuke Tt'inist'oiifttu, wliich must Im' crossci to n-acli tht* villa^t' of Ih'tnur flu Iaxc. Here one may put up at (%nthin'\ lloid^ if tired of nimpin^. Tetuisc-ouatn lialce is iio niileH lonp, 1) miles in breadth, and remarkuble for its dcptli. Thcr(> is good fishing in its waters at tiuu'S, cspei'lally for the great gray trout called "togue"; but it is not as good a Hshing water as the streams and smaller lakes Hurrouuding it. TIIK BIltCII-BAUK CANOK. The birch canoe of the Melicite is filled with n)ystery for the un- initiated, who may be known bey(»nd a shadow of doid)t by the way they talk. If a man be<;ius dilating on the perils of the bark canoe, y(tu nuiy be assured at once that he is either totally ignorant of his subject, or is making a bid for your admiration at the cost of truth itself. I can not make you love the bark as I do — at least not through these pages — but if you seek out Jim Paul at Frederlcton he'll give you a taste of the dreamy delight for a very small sum. Many men <»f Fredericton who do not live in a hut and wear moccasins 8innn)er and winter can not be beaten, either in .skill or endurance, by any Indian u must have them). This will give the builder a [turehase for the ribs, which are next in order. They may be of any light, strong wtiod — eetlar or spruce, usually. They ar«' broader at their ndddh-s than at their eiuls, so that thi' bottom of the eanoe is well Hoored over while the silvery bark of the birch is gleaming through at the sides. The midrib is the greatest are, and from the midrib to each end they gradually diminish in size until at last they are bent almost double. For a short dis- tance — a foot and a half — in how and stern there are no ribs at all, f.nd the bark of each side is sewed with roots or cane so as to make a sharp, neat prow. The cavity is generally stuffed with shavings, and a shin- gle is cut t(» fit in and close it immediately ahead or behind the last rib. So far the bottom of the canoe is flat and the sides stand on it at right angles ; l)Ut when the ends of the midrib aie pn ssed under the gunwales cm each side and it is pushed into its proper position and a few of its fellows are ranged in place on each side, we see that the bark has left the groimd, except at the center, and the sides are a.s- suming the curve of the finished canoe. Kverything is rather loose till the bars are put in. Tiu-re are five bars in an ordinary -sized ea- noe — a long i go at it blindly. Jim Paul poles in good form. Let him take you up the river away while you watch him closely. You will see that he stands with his feet braced apart a little and faces the near shore. Suppose he is juding on the right side, he grasps the pole near the middle with his right hand and puts it to the bottom of the river just behind him, using his left hand merely to direct the pole to its hold in the hard mud. Then he stu'ges steadily and strongly back with his right arm, and, as the canoe glides ahead, the left arm gets a chance to shove too and makes the most of its opportunity. The right hand, so long as he poles on this side, will never leave the pole except in making a long |)ush, in which case the poler will often run the length of tlie pole flashing like a i'encer's foil fiom side to side, lie's working like a horse, I pick out the main course and use all the common sense and experience 1 can lay claim to in choosing the deepest water and keeping clear of the worst rocks. He looks out for the smaller but no less dangerous ones. We come to a sharp turn, and I head her straight for a giant bowlder that stoops in from of us, surging his way against the roaring stream with frothy, .jagged shoulders. The canoe shivers and leaps at him, and I give a twist to right, and a side cuirent helps me just in time, and we tuin half lound and dart for another. The bownian catches her in her jump and holds hard while 1 slip the stern to the left, and we spring througli a line of rolling waves anvl shoot into the rest and calm of a , in a spell of clear sky, we paddled off from Andover and fancied ourselves undei' way; but the Indians had a stop to make at their village. Here was a delay of nearly two Ixturs, which left us little of the afternoon for jouriu'ying. Not far ahead were " The Nar- rows," the toughest piece of navigation which t'le whole length of the Tobique could bring to bear against us, with the possible exception of I{ed Rapids. We decided to employ the remnant of our daylight in ni^ 106 UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. demolishing the obstacle, that we might have clear poling to look for- ward to on the morrow. A mile of easy water, and " The Narrows " were reached. Here the Tobique has chiseled itself a canon through a range of calciferous slate which had sought to bar its way to the St. John. The little diffi- culty, I understand, was settled some aires back, but the river still chafes furiously at remembrance of the opposition ; the gloomy crags still threaten, as if they brooded over their defeat, lledly into the gate of the gorge streamed the light of the low, unclouded sun, filling the water with fervent greens and olives and flushing the naked faces of the cliffs. Hut the gorge is tortuous and the sunshine was speedily shut out, while the rocUs drew closer and closer above, as if they would strike their somber foreheads together. The toppling black walls were scrawled over with tracings of white where the thin seams of limestone displayed themselves. Here and there we marked the cordial green of a cedar-tree, swung from some scant root-hold on the stee}). Once we came to a spot where the canon widened, giving room for an eddy which served us for a breathing-place, and for a queer detached rock- pinnacle which must figure as an island at high water. At this season the stream was low, or a passage of the Narrows would have been one of the wildest of impossibilities. Instead of volleying down the gorge in an endless succession of great, white, roaring surges, as is its wont in time of freshet, the current now darted on like a flight of green arrows, splintering into a hiss of foam on every point and ledge, and occasion- ally dipping under a group of thin-crested, stationary " ripples." Though this devious chasm is not a mile in extent, we occupied two hours and more in its passage. For all that, we had little time to de- light in our grim surroundings. We had to snatch our impressions. With straining shoulders and flashing paddles, we aided to our utmost the poles of our sorely-perspiring guides. Sometimes we would grasp a jutting rock, and hold on like leeches while the panting Melicites breathed. We thrust and paddled desperately, now on this side now on that, as a spiteful cross-current would tug fiercely at our bow to drag us into some small but malignant Charybdis. All the while our ears rang with the rushing clamor of the rapids, doubled and trebled and hurled back upon us by the chasm's resonant walls. At last the walls fell swiftly apart before us, revealing a far, bright stretch of placid waters, bedded in low, grceu shores, with a sundown sky of UP THE TOIJIQL'IO BY CANOE. 107 clear sea-green and amber widening out peacefully above it. Beheld from this cavern of tumult and gloom, the vision came to our eyes like the veritable end)odiiiient of a dream. lIl)on a plot of gravelly sward we pitched our tents. As the rains had drenched eveiything, we had trouble with our fire till a dry stump was found. After supjier, while the red glare of the tire wrought strange confusion with the moonbeams among the thickets about us, and on the misty level of the water that neighliored our threshold, we gathered huge armfuls of a giant fern which grew near by, and dried them for our couciies and pillows. The Indians, who had their "lean- to" over against the tent-door, preferred their wonted pile of hemlock- branches. As we were running over with noble resolutions concerning an early start, before the morrow's sun should have got his eyes well oi)ened, we sat not long that night about our fire. At a modest hour we were snug in our ferns aiul blankets. P'ortunately for the fate of our resolutions, the n)orrow, to all ap- pearance, had no sun. It was rain, rain, rain ; now mist, now drizzle, now "pitchforks." When it happenetl to be for a little in the milder form of mist, about eleven in the morning, we struck tent and got under-way. At once came on the rabid form of "pitchforks." With water-proofs buttoned up to the neck, the skirts thereof spread out to shed the downfall, we endured in silence till we had scored a moist three miles. Then, coming to a farm-house set temptingly close to the streanj, we decided to break for cover. The Ecclesiastic was sitting in a pool which chilled, he said, his most deeply-seated enthusiasms ; and we agreed that a kitchen-tire, with possibilities of buttermilk a»' sich, had just now peculiar charms for a canoeist's imagination. Canoes and dunnage safe beneath tarpaulins, we i)resented ourselves all drip- ping at the kitchen-door, while the Indians took to the barn. Soon the weather cleared, and in the afternoon we made good prog- ress. Between the showers the Artist would be busy with his sketch- book, whipping it under his mackintosh at the first sign of a si)rinkle. As for the Ecclesiastic, lie is an ardent disciple of the gentle Isaac, and had got his rod spliced as soon as we came in sight of the Tobitpie. We two now kept casting from side to side as the canoe climbed on- ward, though on this lower course of the stream we had no expectations to be disappointed. The large trout were lying higher u[), or in the mouths of the brooks, and oiu' need not look for a salmon at his tly before he reaches the Oxbow. Yet certain of the small fry were on 108 Ul* TIIK TOHlgri-: HY (:A.\()K. ^1 111 ■■'. >t i I' \i n i hand, and wo took enou^jjh to supply our pan liberally. The Eoclesiastic also, favored anioup anj^lers, struek and skillfully landed a small j^rilse. The fertile soil aloitj; the lower Tobi(|ue is being nij)idly taken up by settlers, so during all this day's poling we were raiely out of sight of some sign of eivili/ation. Now it was a lattieed red and white bridge, leaping out of a mass of green on either lofty bank, and putting an airy limit to some enihanted vista before us. Now it was a white village perched on a hill, with a wall of daik fir-trees behind, and the yellow refuse of its now idlo saw-mill covering the low level in its front. Toward sunset the showers eeascd finally, and in the ex<|uisite air we grew all too indolent to wield or rod or pencil. We dreamed along between the changing shores, an I were disposed to grumble when the Indians halted for supper. To the halt, however, we grew reconciled when the savor of our browning trout stole out upon the hay-sweet breezes. After supper we pushi'd on thr(>u|;h gathering dusk, while the twang and cry of night hawks filled the upper skies with magic, and we caught a far-off piping of sununer frogs, with the lowing of cattle from a farmstead back of the hills. Jieaching a wooded island in nud-s*ream we saw that it was good, and pitched our tents. The camp was on the east side of the island, under a pair of stately black ash. What a mighty fire we built that night to glare across the water ! It served at the same time, truth compels me to add, the less romantic purpose of drying our socks, etc. We were so wet that one vhccp-lah-ijiuih-gaH * could not satisfy our needs. The camp was full of cherj)-l(uh(/an, alternately turning his socks and daubing on the succulent ointment, he became, i>H Minratiou. i ! M , Ur THK TOBlynO liY CANOK. "Tohiqiio, or not Tobiqiu', that Ik the (|iii>stion. Whi'tluT 'tin iHthliT in tin- flcnh t<» Huffcr The 8tiiin>* mid ariowH «tf oiitra^i'diis luidj^i'H, Or to take arnin uyaiiint a siosjc of Haiul-Hics, And by tar-ointincnt i-nd tln-ni ! " 169 At this stai^c he was rudi'ly intoirupted. By a laincntalde oversight our tent was [)itched witli tlio door there- of toward tlie east. Therefore we awoke too early, and lay long wateh- ing the sinirise over the hiw, thiek-wooded hills. Then the eoils ot mist, tinged with h-aft'ron, pink, and violet, wavered and faded from the up- lands ; but on the water they clung writhing in pearly ropes for nearly an hour longer. The woods all ahout were full of the " Camida-hird,'' or white-throated sparrow, whose limpiiim|)tiirc(l, niid wished his peiieil weie eom|)(Miii(h'(l of the nihihow, lather than of soIht graphite. The Keek'siastie IoimkI a sennoii oT iiiarveh>iis elo- (jiieiiee in these stones. Above IMasler ("lilF the river runs tliroMi,'h a with heh of red sand- stone, leniaikahh' for its deptli and streti^'tli of tone. Tlie next lanil- niark in inv ineniory — (tr should 1 style it a " water mark V " — is tlie Oxhow. Tins is a curious and sti'on,i,dy defined doulde bend in the river, and we n-aehed it late in the afternoon. Mere, instead of tin- airiness and park-like etVeets of hard w«)od shores and jrrass, we had a sort of warm anut with Tom's assistance I fished from the cancte. Steve had been evinein}^ some desire to try his own dusky hand at the sport; so at last the Ec- clesiastic handed him the rod for a moment, with a few cautionary hints, and i)etook himself up the bank to a spring he had espied amoni^ the n.cks. I held my hand to watch Steve, as he stood proudly wield- in}; the unaccustomed lance- wood ; and in that posture the Artist im- mortalized him. All the prelin)inaries the Indian accomplished with skill ; but presently a fair-si/ed trout took one of his flies, and started off up stream with it. Now Steve was in a piteous (piaiidaiy. He had for^rotten all that he had been told to do. He did not understand the reel, and was afraid the rod was goinir to break. He simply stood and looked, with an expression of profound concern on his mahojiany face. When the trout started back, he pidled in some of the slack with his fingers, gingerly enough, but let it go at once when the fish started off again. No one would go to his assistance uninvited, lest he should wound the Melicite dignity. At last a variation was introduced. A large fish seized the disengaged Hy, as it trailed about the pool ; and then Steve turned fiantically and raised a cry for help. The Ecclesi- astic, with innnense laughter, ran up and seized the rod ; and after a sharp struggle both prizes were brought to basket. The two together weighed a pound and three ({uarters, and Steve most complacently UP TIIK Tonitil'K IIY CANOE. 173 pliiiiicd liiiiis«'lf oil iK'inii their captor. For all tliat, liowt-vrr, In- would not touch the rod ii^idii ; perhaps drciidiiitr lest ii more dultioUM siicccks iiu^'ht oast taniisli upon his piscatorial laurels. Just itevnnd the Oxixiw we came to th*' mouth of the (luhpuic, one of the TolM(|ue's most important atlluetits. \ little liclow it we saw a deep, eddyiup; po(»l, in which lay several salmon. They dispersed at our oomiu^^ hut we niaiked the spot. .\t the (Jul<(uae was a small island, treelefs and frrassy and stony, on which we encamped. Then, leaviuf? the Artist to sketch, the Melicites to get supper ready, the Kccloiastic and I took a canoe and di'o|)pe! we had recovered from our panic, we began loudly exulting in the discomfiture of our foes. A roaring fire of dry pine-logs, the pleasant sniell of the cedar smudges, a good supper, and a comfortable couch in the glow, soon restored us to sonjc- thing like our wonted cheerfulness. We sang songs, smoked our pipes, and shouted many a warm greeting to the solitary canoe which had forsaken us, and which we pictured as, by this time, possibly sliding down by the Wapskehegan's mouth. Next day we made never a halt to fish, and in the early afternoon shot out upon the steely mirror of Little Tobicjue Ijake. The scene UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 179 was almost oppressive in its stillness and its somber majesty. Round the lake-shores wore masses of dark syenite, with equally dark swamp- forests intermingled ; and near the lake's head rose Nictor Mountain, a beetling, naked cone of feldspar, frowning into subjeeti(m the lesser hills which crouched and huddled aroinid. The water was of great depth, ice-cold, and colorless. The noods appeared to harbor no birds or squirrels, and the only fauiiliar sound which greeted us was the piping of the frogs, which arose toward evening. We scaled Xictor Mountain, which is some 2,O00 ft. high, and from its summit had sucn a panorama of hills, and rivers, and lakes, as I have described elsewhere as seen from the peak of Hugar-Loaf. We noted old Sugar- Loaf on the l)right northwestern horizon. At this place we spent a day and two nights, finding no lack of sport in the gloomy wateis; but the region jjroved too severe and chilling for us, and its atniospiiere of stony endurance crept into our very souls. " The straufro-scrawlt'd lockx, the lonely sky, If I iiiiglit lend their liTe a voice, Seem to bear rather than rejoice.'" V We had not time at our disposal to portage to Ne|)isiguit Lake and descend that wild river. As we hastened away with the lacirig current, on our downward trip, one morning, we seemed to leave behind us a whole mountain of vicarious woe. We stopped not till we reached the Forks that same afternoon. After a successful evening's sport in the well- loved pool, we found that now we had little room to spare in the canoes, on account of the Indians' cargo of salt-fish. Thenceforth we killed but enough for each meal. On our down trip we made great progress, and traveled lu.xuri- OJsly. My remembrance of it is, for the most part, a confusion of greens and blues and browns, streaming away behind us as we fled, with a vivid effect in rose and white at Hi-d Rapi |>atehes of sweet-smelling buckwheat. As :i rule, the forests eoij'". t ' liM'tiy oi' gray bowldcis and the trunks of dead trees. In late .-um:,.ei, hiwever, the brilliant blossoms of the fire- weed to'U'h the desolatioL ^' !■'/ a purple glory. Twenty-si.\ miles from Woo«lst(),it is tli'.: sti 'i.>r ('j *• liivcr. Five miles beyond is (uuter- biiri/ Sfafioii, in the neighu'^rao" . o" the famous ^'^k'ijf' L((k(\ In this water is taken the landlocked salmon or " shiner," a magnificent game- fish, very much like the ouananiclie, but running to a larger size. It is in every way the ])eer of its more venowned relative, but is at timea very capricious in its tastes, refusing to rise to the most seductive fly invented. The station of Deer Lake, 42 miles from Wooilstock, is a mere hnnbering post. Sixteen miles beyond the gi-ay bowlders thicken over the face of the landscajie, and among them we discover McAiliua Junction^ where one may get refreshments in the station restaurant. Thence, passing the stations of IJarber Dam and Lawrence, we come to Wdtt Junction, Ifi miles from McAdam ; here a branch diverges to Sf. Stcphni, a distance of 19 miles. t>(. Strp/icn is a progressive little town at the head of navigation on the St. Croix Iliver. it is a center of the lumber-trade, and has grow- ing manufactures. Contiguous with St. Ste|)hen is MiUtoirn, with a large cotton-mill. Together the two towns have a [)opulation of be- tween 4,000 and r>,000. Across the river, and forming practically one community with St. Stephen and Milltown, is the little American city of Calais, in the State of Maine. Calais has between 7,<»0u and 8,000 inhabitants. Between these eonnnunities, though they diflFer in their allegiance and their flag, there exist the closest harniony and most inti- ;!i BY RAIL FKOM WOODSTOCK. isi mate nocial relations; but the biitlfros (.•onnootin<; thcin are guarded by the customs officials of both nations. Nevertheless, the neighbor- hood affords a tine field for interesting and sojnetlines suecissfid sMuiggling experiujents. In the War of 1812 St. Stephen and Calais refused to eonie to blows, or to regard each otlu'i- as enemies. The chief hotel of St. Stephen is the Qneni Hotel. In Calais the best are the American House and St. Croix Exchange. At Milltown the naviga- tion of the river is closed by falls. A steamer runs daily in summer, semi weekly in winter, down the river to aSV. Atidrrws and Knstfwt'ty C(mnecting with the l)oats of the IntmiatioHtif S. S. Co. St. Stephen is at pi'csent the western ternninis of the (Irand Southern Nailwaif, which runs eastward to St. John. FroiV; Calais a railway runs 21 miles N. W. to the foot of the Sc/ioodie Lakes, whence a small steamer as- cends to the famous fishing-grounds of (innid Lake Stream, in Maine. The lower lake is occupied by pike, which have cleared out the more valuable game-fish ; but the upper waters abound with brook-trotit, lake-trout, landlocked salmon, and pickerel. Near the foot of Big Schoodic dwells a tribe of the Quoddy Indians, among whom may be hired guides to the labyrinths of lakes and streams connecting with the Schoodics. By short portages from these waters one may reach tribu- taries of the Penobscot and Machias. The main line from Watt Junction passes the little stations of Dum- barton (3 miles from the Junction), Rolling Dam (7 miles), and here we touch the Digdiguash Hiver, and follow its course some miles ; Hewitt's (8 nules), Boix Iload (12 miles), VVaweig (14 miles), Bartlett's (16 miles), and Chamcook (22 miles). Here the scenery becomes impressive. We skirt l*assama(iuoddy Bay. Chamcook Mountain is a steep and solitary mass, overlooking the bay and the (juiet bosom of Chamcook Lake. A few miles above Chamcook, on the St. Croix, is the picturesque inlet of Oak Bay. At this point the St. Croix bends at right angles to its course, and forms, with Oak Bay, a figure much resembling a cross, whence, according to tratlition, is derived its name. Five miles beyond ( hamcook Station we run into the delightful watering-jdace of *SV. An- drews, a village of two thousand and odd inhabitants, and the shire town of Charlotte County. Acadian history makes its real beginning at this point. To the St. Croix, in ItiOt, came Champlain and the Sieur de Monts, and planted a colony on a little grassy island within the river's mouth. A quad- rangle of wooden buildings was erected, with a chapel, and the Govern- 182 BY RAIL FKOM W(^OI)ST0CK. or's residence. In spite of tlie lateness of the season, ^rain and vep;e- tables were planted, and a <^arden was laid out, after tlie fashion, faintly, of tliose old gardens in France?, for whieli, it n»a}' be, the colo- nists were now a little lioniesick. Hut in the bleak duvs of late autumn their situation was dreary enouf;h ; and, because their crops had failed to ripen, they were compelled to live maitdy on salt meats, a diet which speedily affected their health and spirits. At last winter came, and the snow, and the freezing winds ; such cold as in their own land they had never learned to dream of. The sleet diove in through the chinks of their ill-made buildings. Fuel was hardly to be obtained, and they shivered over their scanty fires, till, in spite of Champlain's indomitable and never-failing cheerfulness, their hearts sank utterly within them. When disease bioke out — scurvy in a terrible form, from their un- wholesome living — they fell an easy prey. Out of some 8(> persons, but 41 survived, and these hardlv. When the first warm davs came thev crawled forth in the sun like shadows. Scarcely could the sick be at- tended, the dying ministered to, the dead buried. In the spring the island was abandoned, stripped of all that could be carried away ; the fortifications were dismantled, and the [loor remnant of the colony fled over the bay to I'ort Royal. Now, the lighthouse-keeper is the one man who makes ^■'t. Croix Island his home. When, in 1788, the St. Croix Iliver was fixed ujion as the boundary between Maine and New Bruns- wick, it Itecame a disjjuted (jucstion as to what was the true St. Croix. The Americans claimed that it was the river now known as the Maga- guadavic, much farther to the eastwai-d ; but after much searching the dispute was laid to rest, and the British claim established, by the dis- covery of the remains of Champlain's settlement, cm Doncet's Island, above St. Andrews. Sf. Andrews is commandingly situated on a peninsula between the St. Croix — at this point two miles wide — and Passamaciuoddy Bay. It was of old an important ship[)ing center, with a great West Indian trade, but its supremacy has been stolen and clivided by St. John and St. Stephen. The town is well laid out, in scjuares, with wide and well- kept streets, and, besides its charms of scenery and climate, it has inter- esting remains of old British fortifications. St. Andrews has expectations of a great commercial future, which may or may not be realized, though her harbor is certainly all that could be desired. As a summer resort her popularity is yearly in- creasing. She has her cool sea-breezes in the hottest months, her im- BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK. I8:i munity from the Fiimly fogs, her firsh and salt water fisliinji. More, over, she has her bathing, joyoussly iiKhilgeil in by gay parties of young men and maidens, old men and children. The water, however, is some- times uneomfortably cool. A favorite diversion at St. Andrews is the sport of lol)ster-spoaring. In the eool of the morning, when the tide suits, there is a novel exeitement in being I'owed stealthily over the transparent green water, while, .> the island was pur- chased by a syndicate of American capitalists, who have miide it a sum- mer resort of the first rank. The old Owen Manor-II<»use has been enlarged into a most attractive hotel, called the Omti, which retains many of the distinctive charms of its earlier days — the I ehureh and a typi- cal country inn. Near by are the small Iak<'S called (irand Ponds; and off the harbor lie a number of small islands, I'onneeted with memoric^s of Audul)on, who spent some time amonfi them in is;{;i, studyinjr the habits of the i,'ulls. From Grand Harbor a road leads around the S. shore to Seal Cove, and thence along the heights to Uroad Cove. Nine miles off the coast at this point lie the Wood Islands and (Jannet liock Lighthouse. From Broad Cove a foot-i»ath leads to Southwest Head, a lofty promontory, amid the grasses of whose summit the sea-gulls builil their nests. Around the X. shore, 8 itdles from (irand Harbor, lies Whale Cove, with surpassing views, and a beach on whieh one may pick up jasper and agates. Close by is Eel Hrook (^)ve, where the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, with the loss of all on board. A little farther to the X. is the cape called Bishop's Head, with a pro- file thought to resemble that of a human face. Hetwecn (Jraml Harbor and Whale Cove we pass through Woodward's Cove, Flagg's Cove, and the matchlessly pictures((ue and artistic village of Sprague's Cove nest- ling under the S. shore of the high and storm-beaten peninsula ealled Swallow-tail Head. The W. coast is a frowning wall of eliffs from 300 to 400 ft. high, in which are the wild and romantic indenta- tions of Dark Cove and Money Cove, where the ubi(iuitous Captain Kidd is supposed to have buried some of his treasure. On this coast ISC BY RAIL FROM WOODHTOCK, also is Iiuliaii hcucli, wli*>r(> a nimiher of the Qtioddy Indians pass thu sinnincr cngaf^'cd in tho porp()iso-Hsh«'ry already referred to. The ishmd is in tele;;raphie eMiniiinnieation witli the mainland by a s(il)n)a- rine eable to Kastport. Vory lately one or two small hotels have been ereeted, the most prominent of whieh is the Af'trhh' li'uhje Iftmsr, near North Head. In the time of ('harlevoix, if we may tni-it that aneicnt ehronleler, there existed oil" the eoust o(l trout-fishini;. Tlie population (»f St. (Jcor<.'o is IjMiO an,| odd, Hcyond St. (it'or«,'(' are the Htations oi IN-iuilii'ld (lt» miles), New Kiver ('»;} miles), licpreaux (r»8 miles), LaneasttT (»•»') miles), .Miis(|uasli {I'A miles), and Spiiiee liake (TT) miK's). Sprnee Laki' is 7 miles from St. John. It is a pretty Hlieet of water, 5 miles in length, and abundantly stoeked with pereh. It is the sonree from whieh C'arleton draws its water-snpply. between (Spruce Lake and Carlcton extends the pretty drive known as the Mahof^any Koad. The fare between St. Stepln-n and St. .lohn is 11(2.50. From Moncton to Amherst. Leaving Moneton by the Ihtlifax h'xfurxs our first stoppag** is at Painsee tlunetion, a distance of H miles. Thenee, passing Meadow Bi'ook, we run tlown the valley of the Mvuininicoolc to the prosperous Acadian farndng village of the same name, the seat of St. Joseph's (•ollege. Kiglit nules farther on, 27 miles from Moncton, is the sleepy but beautifid little town of I)(»e/nMfn\ the shire town of the rich county of Westmoi'eland. Dorchester \. as one(> a great ship-building center, and cimtains nnich wealth, thougli its business is decaying. It has handsome i)rivat(! resideu" cs, important freestone cpiarries, and the (piestionable attraction of tlie Maritime Provinces Peidtentiary, which draws some visitors to 1 rcliester who might not go there oth- erwise. From Dorchester the railroad runs across tfie top of the long penin- sula between Shej)ody Hay and ('umberland Hasin, and strikes the lat- ter at the growing town of iSockvi/lt', 3S miles from Moncton. Sackville is not a pretty town, but it is prosperous and progressive. It has a population of nearly 2,000, and is thinly spread out over a succession of low hills of rich red soil, overlooking the Great 'Dintraniar Marshrx and the mouth of the Tantiamar Uiver, The town has foimdries and factories, is the center of a boundlessly rich agricultural region, and the western terminus of the Copr Toniicnthif liailifoii, so called, whose oflicial title. The Xew Brunswick antl Prince Edward Island Railway, is somewhat large for so small a road, but Ji7 miles in length. It also has the important educational institutions of M()unt Allisfm Col- lege and Seminary and Boys' School, under the auspices of the Meth- odists. The chief hotel is the Bmnswick I/ome. Sackville is a ship- building center ; and all along the picturescpie road, which leads through '^ :.!< 188 FROM MONCTON TO AMIIEUST, I ./ i the villages of Westcock, Woodpoint, iind IJockport, down the pcnin- suhi to North .lojjfiins, one may see a ship on the stocks in ahnost every tidal ereek. If the tide is out, tlie liig vessel appears as if she were being built far inland, on a rivulet not large enough to Hoat her .jolly- boat ; but at Iiigh tide this rill becomes a full bosomed estuary, and the new-launched ship is carried easily from her birthplace. Leaving Sackvillie Station the train crosses the Tantraniar and runs out upon the marshes. The river, whose name is a corruption of its old French appellation, T'lntdutarre^ signifying "a hubbub," is a typical tidal stream. \t low water its broad and winding cliannel is a deep gash of livid red across the fair green face of the marshes. The steep sides glisten in the sun, cut sharjdy here and there by the paths of tributary brooks. Along the bottom, ♦)(» or 70 ft. below the level of the marshes, clamors the fresh-water-stream. Presently the tide returns, led and foaming, and the noisy current rushes far in- land, resting not till the chasm is full to its grassy brim. Then l)eginB the emptying process, which goes on with increa.-ing haste and tumult to the utnu)st of the ebb. The (Jreat Tantraniar Marsh, over which we now run, contains more than 40 square miles of inexhaustibly fertile salt meadow, reclaimed from the sea by dikes. About the head of the marsh lie bogs and pools, which are famous shooting-grounds ; and over it, in all directions, feed in the autun)n great flocks of plover. In early summer, before the mowing, the level expanse is a lovely sight, with its rich green crop bending all one way before the ceaseless winds, varied along the ineand-iing dikes, that follow every ereek channel, with lines of wild-rose thicket and beds of purple vetch. We are now on the IsthnniH of ('hiiivrdo^ connecting New Brunswick with the Acadian Peninsula, now called Nova Scotia. The length of this isthmus is the distance between Sackville on the N. side and Amherst on the S., about 10 miles. Its width, between the waters of the (Julf of St. Lawrence and those of the Hay of Fundy, is about 17 miles. The whole region is most interesting, as well geologically as historically. Most of it is salt marsh, beneath whose suiface, at a depth of many feet, diggings have revealed the remains of ancient forests, |>roving that the district was once upland. At jtresent one portion of the shove is slowly continuing its submergence, while the other is rising at about the same rate. The alluvial deiiosit produces year after year the heaviest crops of grass, and rc(|"' '•'.•* no fertilizer but mud from the neighboring creek chamiels, or a Hooding from the FliOM MOM (TON TO AMIIEKST. ISi) tide. The historic interest of the region centers around the oUl Fort Cuiiifjn'/aiu/, or " Ik'unsejour,'' which stands about midway across the isthmus, on a Umg ridh piiests. In 1755 (J(»vernor Shirley, ot Massa- chusetts, and (lOvcrnor Lawrence, of Nova Scotia, undertook the re- duction of Beausejour. The Mnssaehusetts troops were led by Oolonel John Winslow. The whole ex{>editi(»n was conmutnded by General 3lonckton. The French defense, conducted by the disreputable com- mandant Vergor, a tool of Bigot's, was of the feel)lest. Le Loutre proved himself by far the better soldier. To this day we may see in the vaulted ceiling of the bt)ud)|)roof the great hole mnde by an English shell which came through when the oliicerid were ut breakfast, I 1 190 FROM MONCTON TO AMHERST. and in its explosion killed six of them, together with an English officer who had been taken prisoner a few da^s before. This settled the contest ; and, in spite of the passionate protest of Le Loutre and one or two officers, Vergor capitulated. In the evening a body of British troops marched in, and Vergor celebrated his brilliant defense by a dinner to the French and English officers — at which, however, Le Loutre was not present, having escaped in disguise. After its capture the fort was recliristened Fort Cumberland. After rounding the slope of Fort Cumberland we cross the Missi- guash and come to Fort Lawrence Station, whence we see a little to our right the works of the Chiguecto Ship Railway — which will be most conveniently visited, however, from Amherst, a couple of miles beyond. On the skirts of Amherst we cross the little tidal stream of the La Planche, and, (juitting the marshes, run into the busy depot, thronged with freight-cars. As socm as we crossed the Missiguash we were in the province of Xova Scotia, which will be referred to more fully in another place. Amlierst is a very busy town, whose pojjulation of between 4,000 and 5,000 is increasing with great rapidity. It lies 49 miles from Moncton, 138 from Halifax. Its people are remarkable for their enterprise. It has a number of handsome puldic and private buildings, along with much of the crudity of a new town. With a rich agricultural and mining country behind it, and its practical control of the traffic of the Ship Railway, now nearly completed, the outlook is very bright fof the future of Andierst. It has a short railway running down the coast to the coal-mines of South Joggins, interesting to visitors as the place where the monster rafts of logs are put together to be towed to the New York market. But, of course, the chief " lion " of Andierst, which can not but continue a perennial attraction to tourists, is the Ship Rail- way jest mentioned. The originator and jtromoter of the Chignecto Ship Railway is Mr. II. G. C. Ketchum, M. I. C. E., a distinguished Canadian engineer, who advocated the scheme for years before he could convince people of its feasibility. Ever since the bf'g'nning of the century there has been a demand for a canal across the isthmus, in the way of which, however, there have always been found great difficulties. All the purj)oses of a canal, and many more, will be served by the ship railway at a much less cost. Assoiiated with Mr. Ketchum in the enterprise are the great English engineers Sir John Fowler and Sir Benjanun Baker. The m English 'his settled Loutre and a body of mt defense I, however, After its the Missi- a little to ■wliich will )lc of miles stream of usy depot, cc of Nova Amherst and 5,000 neton, 138 e. It has vith much id mining the Ship the future ist to the ace where the New rst, which ►Ship Rail- way is Mr. noer, who j[)\c of its as been a however, poses of a at a much the great er. The (•■ J III II '''fK'''^'/////'" ' ■y-^'-i-'^/:?;,,/'^ -i^ ■'"Tim. ■■ Cape Pi>n'upi)ie. Cape St. George, from Hastings. FROM MONCTON TO AMIIKUST. IDl broad road-bed, carrying a double track IS ft. wide from center to center, runs from the mouth of the La Planche to Tidnish on North- umberland Strait. A vast dock is being constructed at each terminus. At the inner end of the dock is a lifting-dock 2'M) ft. long by tiO ft. wide, on which ships of 1,000 tons will be lifted by powerful hydraulic presses a height or 40 ft. without disturbing their cargoes o; their pas- sengers. The ship-carriage, on which the ship will be haidcd by two gigantic locomotives harnessed abreast, so to sj)eak, is called the ct adle, and divides the great weight on 24(> wheels The cradle is ii;{5 ft. long, and niiiy carry either one large ship or two smaller vessels. IJy this route ships from the St. Lawrence and the (ireat Lakes for St. John and the New Ei.gland coast, which now have to go through the (Jut of Canso, or in some weather all the way round Cape Breton, will save in the former case 500 miles, in the latter case 7<'0 miles. The amount of tonnage belonging to St. Lawrence and Fundy ports, which may be expected t) make use of this ship railway, anmunted, in 18HS, to not less than 10,182,327 tons, winch is exclusive of the lake fleets and the American fishing fleets. The toll on the railway will be 50 cents a ton on caigoes and 12 cents a ton on hulls. The railway will cost about $6,U00,000. When it is completed a line of steamers will run between St. John and Chni'loffetown, and the traveler will have the novel ex- perience of watching from his vessel's decks a lovely landscape of meadows ar d orchards unroll below him as he moves slowly across the isthmus. The sensation will be imique, as this is the world's only ship railway. At present we reach Fort Lawrence and the railway works by a diive across the marsh from Amherst, but it is pro[)osed to open shortly an electric railway between the two points. The Tid- nish terminus is reached by stage from Amherst. The best hotels of Amherst are the Terrace Hold and the Lnniy Iloimc. From here we may continue on by the Intcirolotiinl Ralhrni/ to Truro, a dis- tance of 76 miles, and thence either ta Halifax or to Pidou, F. E. Islamf, and Cape Breton. The route we propose following at present, however, now takes us back to Painscc Junction, 8 miles this side of Moucton. ta \m }} 1 192 IMtlNCK EDWAKI) ISLAM). FRINGE EDWARD ISLAND. ; I TIh" fjiiv from ^loncton to Charlottctown In way of Pinul du Che)unn{\ Sntntncrs'uU is Jj^JJ.nO; return, i^h.'.'M. Fioin Painsce Junction to I'ointdu (!li ndles lontr, running out from Shediac into the waters of Northumberland Strait. About its wharves clustei-s a village. From this point the tine steamers of the P. K. I. Navigation Co. sail daily for Summerside on the airival of the morning express from St. John. The Hteand>oat fare from Shediac to Suuiiuvrsidc is ^1.50. The distance is :{5 miles. Ouv first sight of the island is a glimpse of the low red cliifs of ('ape Egiuont, far on our h-ft. Soon afterward we are steaming up IJedecpie Hay, at the head of which lies the prosj)erous and dusty ship-building town of Sunnnerside, with a population of some- thing over ;i,0(j() and a heavy export trade in agricultural produce. The Island Province, the smallest of the confederation, is sometimes called the (iarden of Canada. It is separated from New Hrunswick and Nova Scotia by Northumberland Strait, wIkjsc ice in winter some- times shuts off the island from eomnuniication with the rest of the world. Such intercourse as is then irregularly achieved is carried on with dirtieulty and danger by means of open boats, which are alter- nately dragged over the ice-cakes and i)ushed through the loose ice for a distance ol U miles between Cape Traverse on the island and Ca|)e Tormentine on the New lirunswick shore. The Canadian Government si)ends great sums every year in the effort to keep open during the winter a mail and passenger comnnniication, and has had c(m- structcd a powerful steamer, the Stanley, especially designed for pene- trating the ice. This boat, however, can not be said to meet all the refiuirements of the case. The islanders are demanding a tunnel or a subway between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and, gigan- tic as the scheme appears, it will doubtless ere long become an ac- complished fact. PRINCE KDWAKl) ISLAND. 103 The extreme length of Prinee Edward Island is 1 fiO miles and its ' greatest width 34 miles. Owing to its numerous bays atul inlets it has an enormous extent of eoast-line. It has no lofty hills, no roeks, no barrens, but is eveiywhere eultivuble. Its soil is a rich, red loiim, mar- velously productive, from the prevailing color of which the islanders get their local nickname of ''liedfeet,'' to distinguish them from the "Bluenoses " of Nova Scotia and the " lUickwheats" of New Hruns- wick. The island is particularly noted lor its oats, -jotatoes, horses, and oysters, and has fisheries of great value. There is some good trout-fishing in the little rivers which intersect the island, and along in June fascinating sport may be had with a scarlet Hy, casting in the bays and inlets for the sea-trout, which at that season conu' iti in great numbers from the gulf. These are a magnificent game-fish, running from 3 to 5 piamds in weight, and are usually taken by casting from side to side while running before a light breeze. One of the best places for this fishing is St. Petcr^s Bay, about 30 miles from Char- lottetown, the provincial metropolis. The history of the island is not exciting, and derives such color as it has chiefly from the Acadians. It is said to have been visited by Cabot in 1497. Champlain considered himself its discoverer, touching its shores on St. John's day, 1608, and naming it, with his usual lack of invention, Isle St. Jean. At this time it was inhabited by the Mic- macs, who gave it the name of Epayguit, or, as it is better spelled, Abegweit, w'.iich signifies " Anchored on the Wave." Early in the eighteenth century, when England had conquered Nova Scotia, a few Acadians moved to the island, where they prospered so that the settle- ment rapidly increased. In 1 758, when it was taken possession of by the English, it had a population of 4,100 Acadians. In 1763 it be- came a part of Nova Scotia, and was granted in lots to 100 English and Scotch gentlemen, who undertook to colonize their giants within ten years. In 1770 the island was made a separate province, and its infant capital was captured by the Americans in 1775, who, however, did not hold it long. In 1800 it received its piesent name, in honor of the Duke of Kent, the father of Queen Victoria. In 1803, 800 Scotch Highlanders were settled in the island by the Earl of Selkirk, and the population increased rapidly by immigration. The province entered the Canadian Confederation in 1873. From Summerside, whose chief hotels are Campbef/'it and the Maw- ley House (known also as the Clifton), one may follow the P. E. I, 13 : ( W, M 194 PRINCK KDWARI) ISLAND. ! R. R. north through St. EleanorH, Miscouche, Wellinf^ton, Port Ilill (a 8hip-l)uilding village on Richmond Uay), Richinond, Northani, Port Hill, Ellorslio, Conway, Portage (where the Island is not more than 4 or 5 miles wide), Colinan, O'Lcary, Hloomfield, Elinsdale, all com- paratively uninteresting little settlements, and run into AlhcrUm, 55 miles from Summerside. This is a prosperous ship-huilding and tish- ing village on Cascumpeque Harbor, and has about 900 inhabitants. It is interesting as the birthplace of the (Jordons, the two mission- ary nuirtyrs of Eroinanga. The chief inn of Albcrton is the Albion House. Leaving Alberton we pass the stations of Montrose, Kildare, and De IJlois, and reach the northern terminus at 71ffi)iii/i, 68 miles from Sunjinerside. This little village of Scotch and Acadian Cath- olics is an important fishing center. It has a village inn called Jii/ati\orho(id. The villai^e lias )>ut 'iftO itdial)itants, yet it is darin;^ enough to own a banl{ — tlie Farmers' Ihmli of Kustieo— wlinse cliarter, we nnderstand, expii-es in the near future. Along tlie sliore to tlie eastward lie Shaw's Heaeh, with a good suninier hotel (Shaw's), and Tnivtulir Harbor (Lome Hotel), which are favorite resorts for the citizens of ('harlotte- town. The villages of Traeadio and Covehead are (iaelic settlements, and near by, on French Fort Creek, stood of (dd a French fortress, pro- tecting the short portage of 1^ miles fiom the head of the Hillsborough River to Tracadie Harbor. From Hunter River Station we pass North Wiltshire, Colville, Mil- ton, Winsloe, and arrive at Royalty .Junction, whence divergi- the lines to Georgetown and Souris. Six miles more and we sweep around the city of Charlottetown, and enter the depot on the K., between the city and the Hillsborough River. In the depot the train, on its narrow, shining rails, looks more than ever like a toy affair. Charlottetown. The chief hotel of Charlottetown, a fairly satisfactory hostelry, is the llotil Dai'ii's. There is also the (Jn/xtrne, a comfortable house. Their coaches meet the trains and boats. There are no horse-cais, but the livery charges are moderate. The steanu'rs .S7. Lawrvuce and /V///- rcss of Wales, of the P. K. I. Steam Navigation (Jo., \)\y between Char- lottetown and Pictou. The steamer Carroll^ of the V. F'. I., Halifax, and lioston Line, leaves oiu-e a week for Boston. Fnre, ^j^V.TjO. The fortnightly boat of the Quebec S. S. Co. calls here. The little steamer Heather lidl leaves Chailottetown for Orwell every Tuesday, Wednes- day, and Thursday. The Southitort sails to IIW River on Tuesdays and Fridays, and to Rockjf Point every day but Mondays and Thurs- days. The steam-ferry E/Jiji plies between Charlottetown and Sonth- jr rt every half-hoads to Vernon River and Pownal. It n)ay be said here, in parentheses, that the pleasantest way to get to Mt. Stewart Junction is by the little steamer Heather Bell from Charlottetown. Cardigan is 18 miles from the junction ; and G miles farther, running down the long promontory between Cardigan Bay and Georgetown Harbor, wc come to (Jeon/etown, a prosperous village of 1,118 inhabitants, with a large shipping trade in agricultural produce. The har])or is the best winter port ou the island, and least liable to ob- struction by the ice. Steamers from Pictou for the Magdalen Islands call here on their way. The town is well laid out, and is the county seat of King's County, the most easterly of the three counties into which this little province is divided. At the head of the harbor flows in the Brudenelle River. The chief inn of Georgetown is the Cotn- niereiaf Hotel, The more northern line to Souris reaches Morell Station 8 miles east of Mt. Stewart. This is a fishing village on the little Morell River. Thence the railway skirts St. Peter^s Biu/ for 7i miles to the village of St. Peter's, the chief fishing town on the north shore. The bay is famous for its valuable salmon-fisheries, and has been already referred to as the best place on the island for sea-trout. Tourists in search of this sport may stay at the little inn called the Prairie Ilotrl, or they mny obtain board at private houses. The bay is a fine dieet of water, more than 7 miles in length, but its usefulness as a haibor is somewhat impaired by the fact that there is less than 6 ft. of water on the bar that crosses its mouth. Leaving St. Peter's we pass the stations of Ashton, Selkirk, Bear River, New Zealand, and Harmony, whence roads 198 FROM CIIAKI.OTTETOWN EASTWARD. ■ ' 'I i i s lead inland south westward to the Gaelic settlements of Annandale, Douglas, and Bridgetown, on Grand River, where one may study some quaint old customs and a life that preserves its individuality with great persistence. Sonris itself, 8 ndles beyond Harmony, is a Gaelic village of 7(>0 inhabitants, devoted to fishing and ship-building. Its harbor, Colville IJay, is protected by a breakwater. The village carries on an extensive trade with the French island of >/. Pierre, off the coast of Newfoundland. Not far from Souris lie the sliallow coast pools of East and North Lakes; and beyond, the island runs off to a beacon- guarded termination at East Point. At Souris or Georgetown one may take the steamer Braver for the Magdalen Islands, if the attractions of remoteness and sea-trout fishing prevail. The Heaver leaves I'ieton, N. S., every Monday on the arrival of the Halifax express, and calls at Georgetown and Souris. The fare from Georgetown is '^i. The Magdalen Islands are a group of thirteen, most of them connected by sand-spits bare at low tide. They lie in the Gulf if St. Lawrence, between Prince Edward Island and the west coast of Newfoundland, about 5(» tniles from East I'o?nt, already mentioned. The chief island is called Amhemt, and this island, with Alright, (Jrindstone, and Entry Islands, partially incloses a roadstead in which the fleets of the gulf, caught in this neighborhood in a gale, take refuge. The islands, however, have no harbors proper that are safely accessible in a storm, and they are a good place to keep away from in bad weather. Their shores arc lined with wrecks. In the dreadful "Lord's Day Gale," celebrated in Stedman's noble ballad, the loss of life about the Magdalens was a))palling. Out to sea, off the west of Amherst, lies the dread rock of Deadmau's Isle, mentioned in Tom Moore's lines : "To Deadinan's It^le in the eyo of the blast, To Dcadman's IpIo ^lanted in ItlOr) at Port Royal, by ('hamj)lain, after his winter of horrors at the St, Croix mouth. I'nitpic and interesting, though a most disastrous failitfe, was the colonizing enterprise of Mar- quis de la Roche in 1598. Of this attempt the theatre was Sable Island, which, as it is more interesting t(> read about than to visit, may be referred to here. As its name implies, this island is a bank of sand, a deposit of the drift of meeting currents. It lies 9t> miles S. E. of Nova Scutia, and is the center of fogs and fiercest storms, Its shape is roughly tluit of a crescent, 22 nules long by 2 wide, and a shallow pool divides it from end to end. Its positiim is shifting grad- ually eastward, and the dreadful wrecks of which it is from time to time the scene have won it the name of the " Charnel-house of North America." De la Roche, being made Viceroy of Canada and Acadie, set sail for his new dominions with a ship-load of convicts for colonists. Approaching the Acadian coasts he conceived, in his [)rudence, the design of landing his dangerous charge upon the Isle of Sable, till he might go and |)repare for them, on the mainland, a j)lace of safety. The 40 convicts, selected from the chief prisons of France, were landed through the uproar of the surf, and the ship made haste away from the perilous shore. But she came not back again ! De la Roche reached Acadie, chose a site for his settlement, and set out for the island to fetch his expectant colonists. But a great gale swept Inm back to France and drove him upon the Breton coast, where the Duke de Mer. 1:1 ■..■*! ■ 2U2 NOVA SCOTIA. j c7 it was again restored to the French. Massachusetts sent out unsuccessful expeditions against the Acadian strongholds in 1703 and 1707, and succeeded in her design at last in 1710; and by the Treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, the country was finally ceded to England. These struggles aiid interchanges went on with the accompaniment of iiinumeralde romantic and heroic episodes, which make the annals of Xova Scotia an especially interesting field of study. In 174'.» was founded the city of Halifax. The forty years intervening between the Treaty of Utrecht and the expulsion of the Acadians, in 1755, were marked by internal disorders, conHict, and bloodshed, the result of the Acadian and Indian hostility to English rule. The tragedy of 1756 will be referred to more fully in connection with the descri|)tion of Grand Pre. In 17S3 the poptdation of the province was increased by the immigration of '20,(KM) United Empire Loyalists; and in the following year two new provinces were erected out of portions of X\)va Scotia territory — one of them, New Bruns- wick, permanently, and the other ('ape Hreton, as it proved, but tem- porarily. During the War of 1812 Xova Scotia suffered from the depredations of American privateers. In 18(57 the province joined with Quebec, Ontario, and Xew Brunswick to form the confederation known as the Donainion of Canada. To Pictou and Antigonish. From Charlottctown to Pictou by boat is a thoroughly delightful sail of about 50 miles. The fare is ^2. As we approach Pictou Har- bor we pass the farms, lighthouse, and wooded hills of Pictou Island, is; 204 TO I'RTOU AND ANTKiONIHII. : I ; i y and more remote the f^roiip of isles and sun«l Iteaehcs known as Caribou iHJand. Sailinj; up the liaihor we pet a thoroiiplily sati.-faetorj view of thi.s iKthle water, wliose hifrli and varied shores, well popiduted in al- most every ilireetion, pive it tlie eharm of pietnres(|iieness, and whose Hafe and eonnnodioiis anehoni;i;e eonstittites it th(> best liaven on tiie north eoast of Xova Scotia. The town of I'icton is handsomely Hitiiated on a hill-sldc ovcHookinp the harbor. Its site was of old occupied by a town of tlie Micmacs, who called the place " l*ik-took," from the gases eseaping from the eoal-beds underlyinjj the harbor. The neighborhood is rich in legends of (Jhiskap, the Micmac di-migod, who lialted here on his journey to Newfoundland to |)unish the wizards of that island who had slain his servants. Here, too, took place some ^'anguinary battles between the Micnuics and the Mohawks, and to this day the name of the latter is a terror to the Indians of I'ictou. The first settlement at this point was begun in HtiT by a small paity of riiiladclphians. It is said that Franklin was interested in the enter- prise; which, however, made but sorry progress till the arrival of a body of Scotch Highlanders in ITTli. The ultimate success of the.«e immigrants attracted many more of the same race ; and tliese colonists, being intensely loyal, gradually crowded out the first settlers, whose sympathies were with the Thirteen Colonies during the American War of Independence. The town was founded in 17H8; and between I8O5 and 182i», when the Baltic ports were closed against Great Britain, Pictou made great progress as a lumbering and ship-building port. Thereafter th(? development of the coal industry, of which Pictou County is one of the chief centers on the continent, continued the era of prosperity. At ])resent, though Pictou has considerable wealth, and some mills and factories to depend upon besides her shipping interests, the town is not making much progress, and stands at a population of between ;?,000 and 4,000, much of her business being appropriated by her bustling young rival, New Glasgow. Pictou has some tine public buildings, piominent among which is that of the Pietou Academy^ con- taining a fine library and museum. This institution has played a most important part in the education of the province, and counts among its graduates some of the most distinguished of Canadians — among them President Sir William Dawson, of McGill University, and Principal Grant, of Queen's University. The Young Men's Christian Association Building attracts attention, and the spiritual needs of the towns-folk are supplied by a round half-dozen churches, Around the shore of the U TO I»KT(>r ANT) ANTIOONISir. 205 harbor, opnosito Pu'toii, are the Iiii{^««, Mack wliarvcs of tlu' various coal-iiiiniii|; conipaiiicM. About the haiiic point tho harlyor l)raiu'hos into tlirce arms, tlic estuaries of Kant, We>t, and Middle IJivi-rs. Tin.' town is a pleasant plaee to visit in the suininer, bavin;; exet'llent boat- ing and sea batbir>i;, lawn-tennis, some |)leasant soeiet)*, and one eom- fortable liotel, the linnre lloHne. From Pietou tin- railway runs around tlie north of tlie harbor 14 miles to Stillnrton^ wliei'C it eonnects with the Eastern Kxtension of the Intercolonial It. R. Stellarton is a thriving but din^y town of about 3,(KMt inhaJiitants, and luis grown up about the famous Allium Ciuil and Iron MitiiK. \o one stops at Stellarton if he eau help it ; for 2 nnles eastward by rail is the ener^^etie and growing town of Xi w (tliis(ft)ii\ with a population of between 4,(Mi() and 5,000, and two fairly com- fortable hotels ambitiously styled the Whahur and the Vvndoine. New (Jlasgow is a irreat ship-building and eoal-ndning center, aiul is rapidly develoi)ing a large manufacturing interest. It has tanneries and foundries, and has lately started, tinder most favorable auspices, extensive steel and glass works. (Jood public buildings are rapidly going up, and everything points to a most prosjjcrous future for the town. A coal railway runs down the south of the haibor to the coal wharves and ferry opposite Pictou. At the lower end of the town a draw-bridge crosses the East River, here a narrow stream, wliich the citizens of New Glasgow propose to make the (Myde of Canada. Up its northern shore runs for a short distance, to the Albion Mines, a quaint railway, the oldest in Americi. The massive old rust-eaten rails are of a very ciu'ious pattern; but such is the excellence of their construction that they still do their work. The eastern extension of the I. ('. R., running to Mulgrave on the Strait of Canso, has within the past year been still farther extended to run through a portion of Cape Breton. Hetween New (Jlasgow, which we leave at about 1 1 o'clock, and Anfl{/<>?iis/i, a distance of 4'2 miles, we get some occasional bits of good scenery ; but the nine intervening stations are of little interest. A prosperous ship-building village is Merigomish, 14 miles from New Glasgow, with valuable coal and iron ndnes, and a fine harbor. Another of tliese stations is somewhat interesting, on ac- count of its quaint name of Marshy Hope. As we near Antigonish, descending through the passes of the surrounding hills, the scene changes. Antigonish is a beautiful, clean, little pastoral town, set in a broad green amphitheatre, whose meadow floor is watered by a !! 206 TO PICTOU AND ANTIOONISH. pleasant river. Its hoauty of surroumiings is of the restful, quiet kind, but un(lenialL)ly worthy of praise. Tliere are pi-etty drives among the tiills, the summer climate is not to be surpassed, and though there arc no very exciting diversions, the town must be set down as a really delightful retreat for the suminer traveler who desires nothing but unrestricted lofus-cating. The village inns are comfortable, home-like country boardl.'.g-houses, rather than hotels ; and theie is i)leasant society to be met in this lemote cornel' of the province. Antigonish is the shire town of Antigonisii County. It stands at the head of a wide, ^ll;dlow haibor opening into St. (rt'orge's Hay. It has a population of a little less than 2,(»(>o, and carries on an e.xtensive trade in agricultural produce with Newfoundland. It also ships (puin- tities of gypsum. The country is settled by a thrifty farming popula- tion of Celtic Highlanders. Antigonisii is the seat of a Roman Catholic bishoi)ric, of the tine new Catkednd of St. Xtiiiaii (a striking structure of blue liiiiestone dressed with brick, consecrated in 1874, and carrying on the fa9ade the inscription '' Tighe Dlie," which is (iaelie for "The House of God "), The sermons in the cathedral are frequently preached in (ilaelic. Near the cathedral is the imposing pile of S/. Francis A'avicr College^ a prosperous Uoinan Catholic institution under the presidency of Dr. McNeill. Close by is the building occupied by the Girls' School, which is managed by nuns of a Mo'itrcid Sisterhood. Quiet as the vil- lage is, it piiietieally monopolizes the whole supply tnide of the country, and hence supports some large shops which would do credit to places with thrice the population In the country about Antigonish, accessible by stage or carriage, the most interesting points to visit are the Anti- gonish Mountains, thrusting their lofty line 15 miles out into the gulf; Cape St. George ; and the '-omantic villnge of Celtic Highlanders known as Arisaig, behind whose long wo()'^"n pier vessels seek shelter in some winds, there being no harbor on this coast between Antigonisii and Merigoi'.iish. Leaving Antigonish we pass the stations of South River, Taylor's Road, PouKpiet, and come to the prosjierous settlement of Heatherton, whence a stage line runs 20 miles to (iuysboro. The third station be- yond Ileatherton is yet another 7'n)riiilii\ a very interestinu' .Veadian settlement 20 miles from Antigonish. Here is situated a irona^teiy of Trappist monks, aid also n convent oceu|)ied by Sisters of Charity. The third station beyond Traeadi(> is Harbor aii Uouche, another Acadian settlement, and 10 miles beyond, Ho miles from New (Jhisirow, the I TO PICTOU AND ANTIGONISH. 207 train stops at Mulgrave on the Strait of Canso. On the other side lies- the wild and lovely land of Cape Hreton. Cape Breton. The island of <'ape Breton forms a portion of tlie province of Nova Scotia. Its extreme length is about l<»o miU's, its widtii 85 miles, and its population between 80,O(»0 and V)0,0(i(>. It is marveloiis for the diversity of its soenery, being a very chaos of luountains, lakes, streams, and deep bays, and a sportsman's paradise. The island is all but sjdit in two from end to end bv the stransje lake-like inlet of the lin/s iVOr ; and the division is completed by a ship-canal half a mile long connecting the inner extremity of the Hras d'Or with St. Peter's I>ay on the W. coast. The two divisions of the island thus formed are ex- tremely dissindlar, the southern portion being low and much broken by the sea, and the northern portion very mountainous and bold. The valleys and plains are fertile, the coast waters rich in fish, the forests support a large ship-building industry, and, most important of all, the coal-mines are anumg the very best in the world. Hesides its vast coal deposits, Cape Hreton j)roduees marble, granite, limestone, slate, gypsum, iron, and salt. Its position iiiakt's it the key to the (Juif of St. Lawrence, a consideration which led France to cling tenaciously to its possession when yielding up the Acadian Peninsida. Its delieio\is and invigorating summer climate, added to its other atliaetions, miike it one of the pleasantest places in Canada foi' summer wanderin;;-;. The island takes its name from a cape on it-^ ea«t eoa>t, which was called in honor of its Breton diseovereis. it was r live under English rule. In 1711 was Ituilt the strong fortroK of l.oii- isbourg; and lor the next fifty yeais the story of th.' i>land is one of perpt'tual hostilities between the Fm:lish on one hami ami the Freneli with their Indian allies on the othei', cidminating in the second and final capture of Louisbourg and tlie utter destruction of the fnrtress in Julv, nnK. In 17«>fi C ape Iiret(m w.is annexeil to Nova Scotia. !t was made a separate province in 1784, but was icamiexed in IS'JO, Its population is almost entirely Celtic, being made up of Scotch High hindeis and Acadian French. Cape Breton maybe visited l>y boat up the liian ifO,- I 'ikis, bv ^ 208 TO PICTOU AND ANTIfJONISH. the new railway, or by boat from Halifax. Mulffrave, already re- ferred to, is a lishitig village of about r»00 inhabitants, in the moun- tainous, gohl-prodiH'ing eounty of (iuysboro. It has a harl)nr open the year round, and is conneeted with Port Ilawkesbury by a steam- ferry. The latter is a growing village of perhaps 1,100 inluibitants, and gcjod prospects for more. The steamships plying between JJosfon and CharloUdowH call at Port Hawkesbury. Through the Bras d'Or Waters to Sydney. From the noble i)assagc called the gut or Sh'uif of (Vniso we may go by boat or stage through Cape Breton. The new railway from Point Tupper to Siithifji and TiOuisbourg has just been opened. At the time of writing the schedule is not yet announced. In any case the traTcler, if traveling for pleasure, will probably prefer the absohitely unicpie sea-voyage through the windless waters of the Bras d'Or. The daily steamers from Port Mulgrave touch at (Jrniidhjnr^ where passengers tor Ar'what disend)ark ; also at Bt. I\it'i'\'<, (iraitd Xarroim, and Baddeck. The fare to Baddeck is *-J ; return, Ai^.no. The fare to Sydney is i*^.'] ; return, *("). F:oui Mulgrave the course is eastward through tlie Strait to hJe ^fa(ltntH•, an island some 10 miles long by 5 miles in width, peopled by Acadian- The steamer traverses ihe pictures(iue strait called Lennox Fas,sa(jfc, which separates Isle Madame from the main island. Arichaf, the chief village on Isle Madame, lies on the seaward side, and is an important fishing station, with a |)Opu- liition of between 1,100 j»nd 1,2<»0. The town is the < ountyseat olf Kiehmond County, and does a large business for a place of its si/e. It is (Iso to some extent an educational center, having sucoessfui academies for boys and girls There are other busy little villages on Isle Madame. Lc^aving Lennox P^spage we rnn up Sf, Petrr'^H Bni/^ whose head is se])arated from iSV. l\t*r^n lnht^ on the Bnin ft' Or waters, l)y a narrow isthmus with th-' once iippropriat<' name of " 'J'/ie Hnnlovir.'^ Through this isthmus has lately been cut a canal ol about half a tnile in length, whiih has leade the Bras d'Or rout by far the most desiraole for Ca|)e Breton travelers. The village of iSV. /V/cr'.s, with its population of about 1,100, n)ostiy Seotch, was foundei! as long ago as 103<) by the illustrious Frenchman M. Denys, Tlii'oughout all its early history it was a place of importance, and well fortified. Through the eighteenth THKOrGII THE URAS Dolt WATKKS TO SYDNKV. 2n/f\ (lifomtl. N'car the head of East Bay is the picturesque Indian village of h'saismii, and everywhere lie snugly nestling hamlets of Scotch Highlanders. From tlie Grcnt Bni.s (VOr the steamer enters a l»eautiful channel, 2 miles long by about a mile in width, calle(l the Sti'ait of Bai ra oi' the Gi'iind Xdrriiii'N, ami calls at a >e:tlem(iit of the latter name. The dis- trict is peopled by innnigrants from Barra in the llebiides. Passing through the strait we enter the Li/t/t Jinis (V Or /.a/iC, whose charm of land-cape and climate compels the acknowledgment of the inost dis- contented of globe-trotters. Around tiie lake crowd innMmeral)le slud- tering hills, m<»st of them nameil with a tine fieshness and disregunl of the exigencies of i)ronuiiciation. To the wcstwai i of the lake, for instance, lie the heights of \Viitc]nil)aklrhkt ! The next ' toppage is at the village on which Mr. Waiiiei' has conferred a eertaiii kind of im- mortality. Every tiaveler who goes to ("ape Breton, it is to lie |)re sumed, earries a copy of '' Baddeck. and that Sort of Thing," which, if not always (juite just in the imi)ressions it conveys, is always goctd company. Raddrrk. -■I i ■i-ii Iladderk is growing year by year more poi)ulai\ more sophis- ticated, mttre expensive, and l>ettei' etpiipped in the matter of hotel and ftoarding house acconmiodutions. It lies 10 miles fiom Syd- 14 1; i l\ 210 TIIROUCill THE BKAS lAni WATKKS TO SVDNKV. I il • 1 I ney, and has a population, indudinf: the farm-houses tliat feather about it, of sonic ],9()(> souls. The original spelling of the name was Bedecpie. The village is of some inipoitanee, both as a shipping port and as the shire town of Victoria County. It is a thoroughly oulai(leiie, is a noble passage, ranginr(»vincial capital when Cape IJreton was a province, boasts one of the best liarl)ors on all this well-havened coast. Her population Ity the last census (1881) was 3,667; and her trade, not only in coal, ')ut in general prodiiei' as well, is of great and growing volume. The one Haw in Sydney's liarbor is the fact that it is ice-bound for the greater part of the wintei'. In summer, however, it is full of life and activity ; and being the head- (piarters of the French scpiadron in the Noith Atlantic, it becomes the scene of a delightful social activity. The harbor is divided by a penin- 1- 'M U 11 212 THROUGH the hkab im)I! waters to sydnev. fiula into two armf>, and on the southwesterly arm is Sydney. At the extremity of the peninsula are the ruins of tiie fortifieiitions and bar- raeks, occupied by a Hritish garrison up to the time of the Crimean War. The liarl)or was originally called Spaniards' Bay, having been the rendezvous for the Spanish fisliing-fleets ; and afterward it was used by the Enudish as a center from which to carry on the struggle for the island. Now that England has made good and enduring her triumph, France retains but a pier and flagstiiff at the town of Sydney, representing her coaling privileges. The pri'sencc of the French ships and the French otticcrs, with their continual and graceful hospitalities, is regarded now with anything but hostility by the citizens of Sydney. In the matter of hotels Sydney is rather comfortable than modern. Her hostelries arc not pretentious. The chief are McKaizic'K, the Atnrrinni, Central, Ifcnrn's, and Mrs. Al)tf/\s. It is generally easy to get board in scmi-|)rivate houses, at from !*4 to *(> per week. Eight miles from Sydney, and reached by a steam-ferry, is the town of North Sydney, the business center of the Sydney coal-mines. North Sydney has more stir but nnich less charm than its rival, and is not likely to attract the tourist to any prolonged sojourn. It is per- vaded with coal-dust and activity, and is a good place to make the money that may be more agreeably spent elsewhere — at Sydney, for instance. Its population is from 5,00(> to 6,o(K>, and it has several tanneries, a boot and shoe factory, and extensive ship-yards. The chief hotels are the Picston Jlonse and Bdtnout Ilnfcl. The harbor of Sydney, though utterly overshadowed, historically, by Louisbourg, has seen some stirring e[)isodes. Here gathered the remnants of Admiral Sir Ilovcnden Walker's fleet after its wreck off the St. Lawrence mouth in IVU — a powerful remnant, indeed, seeing that it consisted of 42 ships of war. In 1781 took |)lace, off the har- bor, a gallant battle between two 44-gun French frigates and four light- armed British vessels, which were convoying a fleet of coal-ships. The result was a somewhat unfruitful victory for the French, as the defeated English vessels made their escape under cover of night, with the excep- tion of a little ship of 6 guns which remained in the victors' hands. In 1785 the site of Sydney was occupied by a party of United Empire Loyalists, under the leadership of Abraham Cuyler, c-x-Mayor of Albany, New York. '1 THROUGH THE BRA^ dV)R WATKRS TO SYDNEY. 213 Louisbourg. Twenty-four miles from Sydney, Wy rail, lies the storied site of fiOUi^bourg, now hut a little (isliin*^ village, whose inhabitants follow their calling on the (Jrand Hunks of Newfoundland. Its populatictn is about 1,000. The modern village lies some little distance from tlie ruins of the walled city which it was once the fashion to call the " Dun- kirk of America." It is used in smnmcr as a coaling-station. The harbor is spacious, perfectly sheltered, and with a good depih of water everywhere; but its supremacy has tied to Sydney, and is not likely to return, unless a certain "ocean-ferry" scheme, one of several such, should some day come into elTcet. This rather hypothetical {)roposi- tion contemplates a fast train-service between Louisbourg and such centers as Montreal, Hoston, and New York, connecting with swift ocean-steamers for the transatlantic voyage. It would greatly shorten the ti'ials of thost whose dreaded enemy is the nud-dc-mr)'. The special interest of Louisbourg lies in its history, which has been so inimitably told by I'arkman that every tourist visiting the spot should takr with him the volumes entitled '' Montcalm and Wolfe." The scenery at Louis]>ourg is not bold or striking. The hills surround- ing the harbor are rather low, and without imi)ressive features ; but the land lies in a sliape very favorable to defensive fortification. The harbor entrance is narrowed by islands and reefs to a width of about half a mile, and was protected by mighty batteries; behind which, at the southwest point of the harbor, rose the city walls. The opposite side of the harbor-mouth is a promontory called JJf/hf/iouxc Point, which proved itself the key to the situation, and dominated the main defense, that knov,n as the lalontl Bntiery. Louisbourg arose after the Treaty of Utrecht, and in its ]>ullding no treasure was spared. The best engineering skill of the time was expended u])on it, and when c(mi- pletcd the French engineers made the l)oast that it coidd be effectively defended by a garrison of women. The landward side was not de- feuded with the same degree of care, as only a sea attack was consid- ered practicable. The wild surf of (iaharus B(l by Colonei William I'eppt'rell, who was supported l)y Coniniodon' Warren and the West India sipuid- ron (»r thi! Bi'itish fleet. Tlie New Eiipreeiating the old New-Englander's insight. Louis- boiirg had been immensely strengthened for just such an emergency, but the result was the same as before, and upon the destruction of the har- bor defenses, and of almost all the French fleet at refuge in the harl)or, the city surrendered, giving u[) a force of nearly 0,000 men and 230 guns. After the capture, England spent months in the etfoit to thoroughly erase the fortiticatious. Of the i)roud city itself there is left not one stone upon another, but the mighty lines of the earthworks yet remain, with the grand slope of the glacis, am! the enduring arches of the ease- mates and magazines. The scene recalls with an ahnost poignant ap- propriateness the lines of Browning: Where the quiet colored end of evening smiles, Miles and miles, On the solitary pastures where our sheep, Half asleep. THUOUOH TUK HKAS IM)U WATKKS TO SYDNEY. 215 Tinkle lidiiM'wani thi(»ii>;h flu' twilinlit, stniy nr Htup. Ah they crop, Wax tlic Kite oiK'i' of u city ^rcat aiir lie tlie hulks of sunken war-sliipa; and on the low <;i('on slope of the jtoint of land running out from the ruined ramparts to the reefs where stood the Island Uatterv, ia the hist restim;-plaee of the brave .Vew Knj^laml militia who per- ished in the }z;reat siej^'o. The ceaseless beating of the outer surf, whose voice their nuns outroared, is a littin^ refiuieui ; which is well, seeing that their countrymen have honored them with no more delinite memorial. New Glasgow to Truro and Halifax. The express from Xnr frUm/nir halts at Sfr/htr/oit to take in | >at^ sen^ei's from l^ictou and the island. The run from New (!las7 miles from Pictou, and 77 miles from .Vmherst. It stands on the fertile alluvial shores of the Shuben- acadie, at the head of Cobe(|uid Wax, which is at >f Miiias Miisin. cauie, at tne neaa oi uoDe(iui(i liay, wincii is an artu ot .>imas isasi Its population in 1881 was ;i,l(>l, I)ut the census now being taken is sure to show a heavy increase on these figures. Truro's manufactures includi.^ felt hats, leather, woolens, boots and shoes, machinery, iron castings, canned goods, and other items. The best hotels are the old tFriu-e of Wales Hotel, on the pretty central scpiaie of the town, and the il I " IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) / ^ A A 1.0 Ifia IISS I.I 1.25 !!-• K lb IIIIIM 2.0 I. 1.8 1-4 III 1.6 V} ' ^ <-"^ &.. (9 / Photographic Sciences Corporation V ,v ^ \\ <6 €> q\ <^ ^'^ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ' ^ ^^y. V 4SPx ^ ^ 4 ^> V ^ i I 216 NEW GLASGOW TO TRUKO AND HALIFAX. Learmont //ousi' and tlie Vivtorio, by the station. But there are many more hotels in the town. Truro is the seat of a well-eond noted educa- tional institution, the Pmviucial Xormal School^ which occupies a handsome buildiu}^ with well-kept grounds about it. The town i.s level but rather pretty ; and the principal street, broad and well shaded, and eontainiiii? some good buildings and charming private residences, is unusually attractive. On the outskirts lies the l*(ii'k\ which is perhaps the prettiest and most pictures(jue pleasure-ground in the Maritime Provinces. It consists of a bold and richly wooded ravine traversed by a small stream, which at one point falls in a lovely cascade into a fairy-like chasm. The steep wall of this chasm is lined with winding steps, and nooks containing seats, and lighted by electric lamps swung in the foliage. When these unicjue grounds are illuminated, the effect is enchanting. Truro was originally occupied by the Acadians, and, after their ex- pulsion, by inunigrants from New Hampshire and disbandfd Iiish sol- diers. Tl:e S/mbetificaiflc Ulirr, running past the l)ack of the town, is one of the longest in Nova Scotia, and in the lower portion of its course is a tidal stream, with important ship-yards aboiit its mouth. The tide at this point is tremendous. Along the course of the Shubenacadie and connecting with the Dartmouth Lakes li(!s the disused Shubena- cadie Canal, which was built at an enormous cost but turned out a failure Fron» Ti-uro a stage line runs down the north shore of Cobe- (piid Hay a distance of between 40 and 50 miles, through the settle- ments of Masstown (where std the largest chapel of the ancient Acadians, and where now the old poplars and apple-trees remind us of the former inhabitants). Folly Village, (Jreat Village, Highland Vil- lage, Port au Pi(pie, Hass liiver, and r[)per Economy, to Five Islands, where stand, off shore, those live great rocks which, say the Indians, were thrown there by (Jluskilp in his contest with the Great Heaver. Till we approach Halifax the journey from Truro yields little in the way of striking scenery. The station next to Truro is Brookfield (8 miles); then the pretty pastoral village of Stewiacke (18 miles) and the river of the same name. From the busy little village of Shubena- cadie (22 miles) stages run down the river 18 miles to the rich ship- building village of Maitlaiid, which stands on an arm of C'obequid Hay, near the mouth of the Shubenacadie. Maitland ships and Maitland sailors may be found on every sea. Near Maitland, in the gypsum rock, so abundant in all these regions, there is a curious cave worth NEW GLASGOW TO TKURO AND HALIFAX. 21 exploring. Its entrance is harel}' large enough to admit one com- fortably ; but it enlarges as you go in, and is sonte 4(H) or 600 yards in depth. Stages also run from Shubenacadic, in a southeasterly direc- tion, to the gold district of Gay's Kiver and a number of villages be- yond. The gold of Gay's River is found in the conglomerate rock of a long ridge of heights called IJoar's 13ack. Leaving Shubenacadic we pass the villages of Milford {'M't miles), Elmsdale C.V2 miles), and En- field (35 miles). Enfield has a large and prosperous establishment for the manufacture of jjottery, its clay being excellent in strength and texture. Three nulcs south of Enfield are the famous Oldham Gold Mines, whose (piartz rock yields very rich returns. About 1 miles on the other side of Enfield are the /icn/rew Gold J//;/ard, rise black and portentous. The Royal Dockyard, toward the upper end of the city, extends for half a mile along the harbor front, and is in every respect a thcHoughly ecpiipped navy-yard. It is divided from the rest of the city by a high stone wall, and is not open to the pub- lic; but permission to visit it may usually be obtained from the superintendent. A little farther up town, on (Jottingen St., is the Ad- miralfi/ House, where dwells the Commander-in-CluLf of the North American and West India Sipiadrons. The Admiralty House overlooks, though at some little distance, the costly and massive structure of the Dry Dock, \tiXv:\y completed. This structure is filSA ft. long at the top, 593 ft. long at the bottom ; in width 102 ft. at top, VO ft. at bot- tom ; and has a draught of water on the sills of 30 ft. This exceeds the 222 HALIFAX. dii)icnsioi)» of the Hrooklyii Drv Dock by 46 ft. in length find 13 in width. It is built of ^'niuite and concrete. A little N. ntand the spa- ci<»u8 Wclliufftoii liiu-rockH. The ^'cneral effect of the .streets of Hali- fax is Hondier, fnun the |)revalenee of j^ray stone or frray paint, or, in many <|iiarters, no paint at all. The best portions of IloUis and (Jranvillc Sts. are well and solidly built, showinj^ wealth without dis- play. The most important structin-e on Ilidlis St. is the massive, dark- gray I'arlianinit /itiihflm/, which must be regarded, in its severe sim- plicity, as a really good piece of architecture. The Chambers of the A.s.sembly and the lii'gislativc Council arc tastefully decoriitcd, and contain some rather notable portraits. Among these is one of Sir Thomas Strange, painted by Menjandn West. There are also several of Kngland's kings and (pieens, and sucli distinguished sf Bedford linun. Along its eastern shore arc some of the best private residences of Halifax. The Arm is a dclightfid resort in summer, and is traversed by a small steamer, which runs also to MacNat/s Island. Its waters are navigable throughout its entire length, and afford some good sport in the way of lobster-spearing and fishing for pollock with the fiy. Halhers find its temperature rather low compared with that of Bedford Basin ; and there is the added disadvantage of the possibility, some- what remote indeed, of a visit from a small shark. At the head of the Arm is Mvlville J.s/and, once occupied by prisoners of war, now used as a military prison. At the mouth of the Ann is Pernett's Island, and a short distance above it are two immense iron rings fastened into the rock on each side of the inlet, from which was slung, during the War of 1812, a massive chain cable to bar the ingress of hostile ships. Other points of interest in the neighborhood of the Arm are The T)}nghy noted for its fairy loveliness, and Dutch Village, supposed to be in- teresting. About a miles from the Arm is a famous '^ Ji(tt{-i»(/-Sfune" of granite, which may be .set in motion by a small lever. This peculiar phenomenon is on the St. Margaret's Bay Boad. It weighs something over 150 tons, and o.scillates on a base of 12 inches by 6 inches. Nearer town, on the Prospect Road, is a similar stone of much smaller dimensions. One of the chief "lions" of Halifax is situated where Spring Gar- den Hoad intersects with South Park St. We refer to the beautiful Public Gardens, perhaps the finest in Canada or the Northern States. The grounds cover 18 acres, and are most tastefully laid out and adorned, besides being endowed with great natural beauty to begin with. On the picturescpie waters of the pond are interesting water- fowl, including black and white swans. On Saturday afternoons a mill- i' HALIFAX. 225 tary baiid plaiys from four till six ; and on Kiiininer cvcniii^K oonoorta arc often }:;iven, when tlu> <;roun(Is are hrilliantly illitniinati'd. At the western end are tennis-eourts. In the iinnieel, near which has heen laid the curner-stone for the proposed Anirlican Catheilial. Anionj.' the many other churches nl the city, the moHt interestinii are, p<'rhaps, the t'urious circular structin-i' of St. (leoif^o's (An,*;.) on Urunswick St., tin' handsome Fort Masscy Church (Presh.) on Tohin St., the spacious new lu-ii-k structure (»f St. Patrick's (R. C.) on Hrunswick St., the |)retty Methodist Church on (irai'ton St., the <|uaint little Dutch Church far up Mrunswick St., huilt for the Uernian immi<^rants in 17ed countrymen, clad in gray honies|tnn, stanling beside their loads of vegetables or salt-marsh hay; not keen and shrewd-eyed, like New England farmers, but bashfully courteous of sjieech, with the soft lisp of (jiernian fatherland on their totigues or the burr of their Scottish ancestry. Here are a pair of Fretjchwomen with baskets of knitted goods on their arms. Contrast the withered and yellow grandaine, her grizzled hair bulging in a roll above her l)ushy eye- brows, her claw-like hands plying her knitting-wires, with the fresh young girl by her side, whose arch black eyes sparkle from out 15 w 22« HALIFAX. of her snuMifh olivo f'ncc, nniteen(lulous lips. Her layers (d ra^> elothe her like the fiiM};i of a dead tree; her padded hood is fashitMi) (1 to fulfill the olliee of a saddle for her loatinfr of fla^ and willow baskets jrayly dyed, and an oetasional poreupine-quill bos. The s(piaw is premature- ly aj^ed. H«'r broad, eopper-eolored faee is ineonei-ivably wrinkled; her eyes, from their aMd)i!sh , among them u famous skato-fiu'tory and a rope-wiilk. From Halifax us a startiii<.'-point tlif trnvidcr has many pleasant Hide trips at lii^ eoinmand. He may •:(> by boat eastward to Cttiisonnil Capr Ilretoii and tlie west eoast of Newroniidlnnd ; to S(. Jnhu\, Newfounilland, and St. /'iirrr; westward ahmj; tlie Atlnnlie eoast f«> Vai'iiioHf/t and intermediate ports by Itoat or stajre, or up the Ahho/m)- Hh \'ii//(i/ ns far as may b*- desired. If the traveler intends goinj; to Boston t'itt Yarmouth, Annapolis, or St. John, he will '* steamer Halifax at Halifax, for Hoston, he will do well to niake a round trip down the Atlantie eoast of the peninsula, by steam- ers /irit/i/i H'li/i r or i'lti/ of Sf. ,/o/in, or by stapc, throujjh Marpiret's Hay, (.'hester, Mahone Hay, and Luneid>ur<^ to Hridj^ewater, tlieiiee by the admirable new ears of the Nova Seotiu t'entral R. R. aeross the prov- ince to Middh'ton on the Windsor and Annapoli^ R. R., and them-e by the W. and A. R. R. throngii the re<:ions immortalized by Lonjif'-llow, tlir(»U}:^h Wolfi'illi and \\"inihn\ baek to Halifax, This is in every way a most enjoyal>le trip, with many points of interest alonj^ the journey. The plaees on the W. and A. R. R. and the Nova Scotia Central will be referred to later in eonneetion with the trip to AititojHt/is and beyond ; and the plaees between Halifax anil liriiljiwaltT in our aeeoiint of the voyage down the Atlantic cttust. NEWFOUNDLAND. To St. John's, Xcwfounilland, one may }?o by the steamers of the Allan Line or Red Cross Line. The time occupied in the passapre is about 48 hours. The Allan steamers sail for Liverpool fortniper, lead, iron, plumbago, manganese, coal, gypsum, etc. ; its Indians, the strange Beothucs, have gone into that limbo whither the dodo and the great auk preceded them ; the vast interior is in great part unexplored, and is as full of mystery as the colonial politics. 27/^ lustory of XcvfoumUuud begins with the Norsemen in the tenth century. Its fishing waters were freciiiented by Norman Breton and Bascpie Hshermen during the fourteenth century. It was visited by John Cabot in 1497, by the Portuguese explorers Cortereal and Vcrazzano in 1501 and ir)24 respectively, and by Cartier in ir»34. In 1583 it was taken possession of in the name of England by Sir Hum- phrey (lilbert, and settlements were speedily established along the coast. About the end of the seventeenth century and in the early pait of the eighteenth the south and east coasts were the scene of fierce struggles between the French and English. By the Treaty of Utrecht, signed in 1713, the French, while rclinciuishing all claim to the island, were secured in the possession of the rocky islets of St. Pierre and Miquelon, and of certain fishing privileges along the west coast. The provisions relating to these privileges were very stu- pidly drawn up by the British comnnssioners, whence arises in the present day no end of difficulty and disagreeableness. The island was formed into a province in 1728. In 17(51 and 1796 the French made vigorous efforts to concpier it. In 1832 was convened the first Legis- lative Assembly. By a census taken in 1884 the population was placed at 193,121. Now, in 1891, in quarrels with England and France and Canada, the ancient colony is endeavoring to numufacturc history at short notice. Her position as gate-keeper to the St. Lawrence makes it forever impossible that she should be permitted by England to be- come a member of the American Union. 8T. John's. 229 St. John's. The city of St. John's, the capital ofXewfoiuulland, is on the extreme eastern coast of the peninsula of Avalon. It is nearer Europe than any other port of North America. It is l,07fi miles from Montreal, and 1,730 miles from Cork. The approach from the sea is very impressive. The deep, secure harbor is gained by a strongly fortified passaj^e called the Narrows, where the lofty soa-wall of the island is rent asunder. The city is built chiefly of wood, and is strikinj^ mainly fmm its situation. Small as the houses are, and dinfry as are the streets, the city contains great wealth. The chief hotels are the Xew Al1a»tlc, a house equi|)ped with all modern conveniences, and the Utiion, on Water St. Livery charges are very moderate, and cari-iages may be hired at about 80 cents an hour. The pojjulation of St. John's, according to the last cen.«us, is 31,142. The chief trade is in fish and fish products, and in seal-oil, for the refining of which there are several establi.-^hments ; but the merchants of the city do also a heavy local trade in supplying the " out-harbors," as the other towns of the island are styled. The city has tanneries, breweries, biscuit, shoe, and furniture factories. It also has one of the best graving-docks in America. At times, on the arrival of the sealing steamers, there is stir enotigh in the streets of St. John's to satisfy the demands of a more metropolitan center, and the wits and sticks of the police are sometimes taxed to keep order. For about a month in each summer the city is thronged to overflowing with people from the north and west coasts, selling their produce and laying in provisions for the winter. The main business artery is Wafer St., occupied by the wholesale supply-stores of the merchant jtrinces of St. John's, and by a liberal sprinkling of grog-shops and cheap ear- inghouses. Water St. is unpretentiously but massively built. On its northern portion stands the Custom-House. The Market-House and Post Oltice occupy a commodious building about its center, and at its south end are the bridge and causeway which cross the head of tiie harbor. The most important structure in the colony is the great Ho- man CnthoJic Cathedral, crowuing the ridge which overloolcs the city and the harbor. The Cathedral, with the Bishop's Palace, Convent, and St. Bonaventure's College, which cluster about it, cost ^r)(»0,0(H». The Cathedral itself is a vast pile, built of stone, much of which was brought over from Ireland. It has twin towers, an immensely long cloister, and no aisles. In the grounds before it stand a number of 230 ST. JOHN s. statues, among them one of St. Peter. The Irish Catholics form a great ma joi ity of the citizens of St. John's. About half-way up the slope stands the not yet completed Cathedral of the Church of Enfflund. When finished this will be a very beautiful (iothic structure. It was dosi':];ned by the frreat English architect, Sir Gilbert Scott, and its completion is delayed by lack of funds. On what is called the Military Road, running along the high ridge occupied by the Roman Catholic Cathedral, stand the old Barracks, and also the Parliament Building, a massive stone structure, with a really fine Doric portico. North of the Parliament House is Covernuicnl I/otise, occupy- ing pretty and well-kept grounds. The other important ptiblic build- ings are the penitentiary, hospital, Athemeum Building, educational institutions, and poorhouse. The city rejoices in a rickety suburb with the euphonious appellation of Maggotty Cove, through which we pass to climb to the vantage-ground of Signal Hill. On Signal Hill is the Observaforif, from which, and from many atiother point of vantage on the edge of precipitous steeps, we look down upon the city and the harbor in their windless amphitheatre. The crest of the hill is clothed with soft, fine grasses. Amid them lies a deep lake 3»;0 ft. above the sea. Passing the great stone barracks we come at length to a little battery, perched on the edge of a cliff 500 ft. high, from which we look down directly into the Narrows, thronged with the sails of its fishing fleets. Immediately below is the place where, in war- time, the harbor is closed by great chains swung from shore to shore. As Paris is called the gayest of capitals, St. John's has been characterized by Warburton as the fishiest. " Round a great part of the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there is not much of the former to depend upon." These curious structures, which Mr. Warburton called sheds, are known to Newfoundlanders as " flakes," and are a prominent feature of the landscape of every settlement, con- veying a characteristic odor to the breezes. This is a grievance to which one readily gets accustomed. In the course of her career New- foundland's capital has suffered severely from fires, notably in 1816 and 1817. In 1800 St. John's was the scene of a ferocious riot, when a mob of Irish Catholics took possession of the town and began pillag- ing the stores. The Royal Newfoundland Companies were ordered out and posted before the Market-House, where they stood for hours mak- ing no reply to the taunts of the rioters. As night fell, however, they TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN 8. 231 were fired upon by the mob; whereupon they responded with a de- structive volley. At this juncture the bells of the ciithedral sounded an imperious sununons to the rioters, wlio Hocked thither, and were ordered by the bishop, on pain of excounuunication, to keep the peace. Since then, and up to the very latest days, there have been other almost equally discreditable disturbances in the island, arising out of religious disagreements. Trips from St. John's. In the matter of railroads the Ancient Colony is very much behind the times. Her settlements are a mere fringe about the coast, and communication is carried on, for the most i>art, with pictures(pic ir- regularity, by means of coasting-vessels. A railroad runs from St. John's around Conccjttion Bnii to Ilolin'ooil, Ilnrhor Gmre (85 miles), and CorhoHcat\ a distance (»f 9:5 miles. It is being continued up the east coast to the town of Trintti/ and on to the copper-mining districts of IJall Jiai/. The experiences of the engineers in locating this railroad were thrilling enough to have occurred in Central Africa. They wrre attacked at times by men with shot-guns and women with pitchforks, who dreaded lest their labors should result in an increase of taxation. There is some talk of a railroad across Newfoundland to S(. Gcoryi^s Bai/^ which would open up the island to modern influences. Around St. John's there are some very beautiful and striking drives over firm and well-kept roads. One of the most charming of these is by way of the lovely little Qu'uhhi-Viddji Lake and Bally Haly Bog to the deep, wooded lake of Virginia Water^ where was once the summer residence of Newfoundland's (Jovcrnors. The drive may well be ex- tended over the high and moss-grown reaches of the " Barrens " to Logic Bay and Torbay, where one gets a good idea of the Newfound- land coast scenery. This scenery is chnracterized by an almost total absence of beaches, the shores consisting of lofty cliffs, about whose bases thunder the mightiest surges of the Atlantic. Every here and there this forludding wall is broken by a little oj)ening called a ' cove," usually deep enough to serve as a haven for the fishing-boats. At the head of the cove comes tinnbling in from the heights a brown trout- brook, and here gathers a cluster of fishermen's cottages, in an ideal seclusion. Another lovely drive is to the wildly romantic scenery of Portugal Cove, on Conception Bay. At this point is a comfortable country hotel, past whose windows roars and flashes a white cascade, tmmm ■■ 232 TRIPB FROM 8T. JOHN S. If one is fond of coaching, he may f^o by stage over matchless roads, through the sweet pactoral scenes of what is called the Strait Shore of Ana fan to the villages of Blackhead (4 miles), near which is Cape Spear, the most easterly point of North America; Petty Harbor (10 miles), near which is the strange phenomenon called the "Spont," a hole in the vaulted roof of a deep sea-cavern, through which, during storm and high tides, the water is hurled in a huge fountain visible for miles about; Bay Bulls (19 miles). Witless Bay (22 miles), Mobile (24 miles). Toad Cove (26 miles), La Manche (32 miles), Brigus (84 miles). Cape Broylc (38 miles), with fine salmon-fishing in the river that flows around the foot of Hell Hill, Caplin Cove (4i miles); the important little town of Fcrrifland (44 miles), where, in 1637, Sir David Kirk established himself when he was appointed Count Palatine of New- foundland ; Aquafort (48 miles), Fermeuse (51 miles), Renewse (54 miles), and tlie deadly ship wrecking headland of Cape Race, the southeast point of Newfoundland (64 miles). About 60 miles off Cape Race are the famous Grand Banks of Newfoundland, almost as noted for their naval battles as for their cod-fisheries. On the (Jrand Banks, in 1755, the French men-of-war Aleide and Lys were captured, after a furious battle of five hours, by the British frigates Dunkirk and De- fiance. In the same neighborhood, on August 19, 1812, took place the famous battle between the American frigate Constitution, of 44 guns, and the British frigate Guerri^re, 38 guns, which resulted in an over- whelming victory for the American ship. The Banks extend four degrees north and south and five degrees east and west. They consist of vast submerged sand-banks, strewn with sea-shells, lying in water from 30 to 60 fathoms deep. Here, from February to November, feed the cod in innumerable swarms, and the fisheries give employment to over 100,- 000 men of all nations. " Throughout a great part of the spring, sum- mer, and fall, the Grand Banks are covered by rarely broken fogs, through which falls an ahuost incessant slow rain. Sometimes these fogs are so dense that objects within 60 ft. are totally invisible, at which times the fishing-vessels at anchor are liable to be run down by the great Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs (which drift across and ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sud- den and intense coldness which they send through even a midsummer d the peculiar white glare in the air about them, and by the roar- iiig, or the breakers on their sides." The tourist who wishes to visit the N. E. coast of Newfoundland i roads, ? Shore 8 Cape borflO jnt," a during iMe for lile (24 miles), it flows portant d Kirk f New- rse (54 ce, the ff Cape 3 noted Banks, after a md De- ace the i guns, n over- legrees of vast rom 30 ;he cod >r 100,- j, sum- 1 fogs, s these ble, at )wn by ebergg le sud- ummer e roar- tidland The Monthly Mail Tniiii from Ihtll's Bay to Codroy. TRIPS FROM PT. JOHN S. 233 %'■-'»: H m and the shores of Labrador, will need to aUow liiinself a clear month for the trip, and should sch'ct tho midsummer season. As Newfound- land is not a portion of Canada, this hand-hook will do little more than indicate routes, etc. The steamers of the northern coastal line leave St. John every alternate Monday (hirinp the summer, and iiv- tendin. On the Laljrador boats the charge, in- cluding meals and staterooms, is ^2 per day. The fare is very plain, but the steamers are strong and seaworthy. Labrador is an intensely interesting country to explore, but not of much interest to the traveler, who merely takes a hasty look at its grim shores and passes on. It is hardly worth visiting unless one intends to do it thoroughly. Then, it has marvelous and almost virgin trout-and-sahnon fishing to offer, and strange landscapes, and wonderful cataracts, and all the charm of the mysterious unknown. Along the Coast. From St. John's the steamer nmnds Cape St. Francis, and stops off the shelterless roadstead of Bay Verd, an important fishing village. Then it crosses the mouth of Trinity Bay, and enters the magnificent harbor of Trinity, one of the best on the American coast. Trinity has something less than 2,000 inhabitants, and is an important center and coimty town. It lies 115 miles from St. John's. Some farming is carried on in the neighborhood of the town ; and opposite, on the S. side of the bay, lies a seaport with the excpiisite name of " Heart's Con- tent." The next stopping-place beyond Trinity is Catalina, with a pop- ulation of about 1,500, situated on a secure harbor noted for its peculiar tidal phenomena. The next call is at the ancient town of Bonavista, with nearly 3,000 inhabitants, on Bonavista Day. The harbor is dangerously exposed to nor'west winds, but the town has a growing commerce. It lies 146 miles from St. John's. Bonavista Bay is 37 miles across the mouth from Cape Bonavista to Cape Freels, and its indented shores are set with many fishing hamlets. On the N. shore is the important harbor and village of (•rermjiO}tloi(s are 14.5 feet in height. Its length is about 150 miles. Thence the steamer cros-ses the broad bay of Nofrf Thnne to the famous mining village of Tilt Cove, on the border of a lovely lake. The village has about 8(»0 inhabitants, nearly all miners. The mines are of copper and nickel, exceedingly rich ; and an excellent quality of marble is found in the neighborhood. IJett's Cove is an- other important mining center, and indeed all the country about Notre Dame Bay abounds in mineral wealth, and its population has been growing rapidly of late years. A highway leads across the island through coal areas and good farming lands to the Bay of Islands on the W. shore, and the projected railway to the southward will do much to develop this region. Here the coastal steamer turns back for St. John's, and travelers who are going farther N. take the sturdy Labrador boat. i i Conception Bay and the South Coast. The traveler who has come as far as St. John's should certainly take the railroad around Conception Bay. The first station is the watering- place of Topsail, 12 miles from St. John's. Then come Manuels (14 miles); Killigrews (18 miles); Seal Cove (21 miles); Holyrood, with a population of 400 (28 miles); Harbor Main, at the head of Concep- tion Bay, Salmon Cove, and Brigus Junction (42 miles), whence we diverge to Brigus, a picturesque town on a lake between two hills. Brigus has about 2,000 inhabitants and an immense fishing fleet. A magnificent view is commanded from the summit of Thumb Peak, 600 TRIP8 FROM ST. JOHN J*. 235 ft. high, or from the bold headland of Hrip;us Lookout. Not fur from Brigus is the ti.«jl»ing village of liny Roberts, most of whose male in- huhitiints si)end their Hummers fishing on the Labrador eoast. Ten miles from lirigus Junetion is Harbor (Iraee tlunetion. Ifarbor <>rnce (HI miles from St. John's) is the seeoiid town of importunee in Newfoundland. It has a popidation of 7,<>0(>, and is an important trade eenter. Its harbor is roomy but nuieh exposed to the sea, except close to the city wharves, wlu-re a lonjr sand-l)eaeh fornts an excellent natural breakwater. The city is mostly built of wood, and not striking in aj)- pearance ; but in the Roman Catholic cathedral it possesses a rich and handsome edifice. From Harbor (Jrace a road runs across the penin- sula 15 n)ilcs to the village of Heart's Content, already referred to, where the old Atlantic cable has its western terminus. The railroad runs on to Carbonear, 8 miles N. of Harbor (irace. This is a town of something over *2,00i> inhabitants, and a great fishing center. From Harbor Grace Junction a railroad runs to the old town of Placvntifi, on Placcntia Hay, 84 miles from St, John's. Placentia was in old times an inii)ortant French stronghold, and successfully resisted many British assaults. When the French claims were surrendered by the Treaty of Utrecht, the garrison and inhabitants of Placentia followed the French flag to Cape Breton. Under British occupation an impor- tant town speedily arose at Placentia. which has of late years gone rather to decay. Five miles from Placentia is Little Placcntia, and 12 miles farther X. are the great lead-mines of La Manche. The S. coast of Newfoundland, from Cape Race to Cape Ray, may be visited by the western coastal steamer from St. John's, which leaves on alternate Thursdays. The chief points of interest after rounding Cape Race are the little town of Trepassey, on Trepassey Harbor ; the excessively dangerous piece of coast between Cape Pine and St. Shot's ; the town of St. Mary's, on St. Mary's Bay, with the large village and splendid fishing river of Sahnonier, a few miles distant ; Placentia, already referred to, and Burin, on the Burin Peninsula, forming the western boundary of Placentia Bay. The harbor of Burin is per- fectly landlocked by cliffs '2u<» ft. in height, and is the best of all New- foundland's admirable harbors. The town has a large trade, and a population of 1,850. The surrounding scenery is magnificently bold, and the tower of Burin lighthouse is perched 430 ft. above the sea. From Burin the steamer sails to St. Pierre, a barren rock 4 miles across, lying under the flag of France, The town is largely built of !' >| ! 1 ! I ! 23« TRII'K FROM ST. .K^IIN K. Htono, niid is crowdc*! to^^ctltcr on its liurlior nt tlic E. of the island. It is <;iirrisoncd bv a crMnpiiiiy of Fronch soldiers, and is one of the most peculiar and flioroii^ldy individiuilizcd tmvns in North Aincricu. It is famous alike for its «|uaintness and its h(tsi)itality, its rare old bran- dies and ports, its ubi(piit(ius eodlish, and the nitttley crowds of fisher- men-sailors that thronj; its narrow streets. The town is the landinjr- place of two of the transatlaiitie eabh'S, which add to its population a larjie force of operators. The only building's of itiiy jjrotension are (iovernment House and the Roman Catholic church and convent. The best inns are the I'dikUhi HdcuJa and Hotel Jnhivillc. Trav(ders wlu) intend visitinfr St. Pierre sliould make a point of readiiifi; an illustrated article on St. Pierre, by S. (J. W. Benjamin, in the (/cntury Magazine for June, 1H84. Heyond St. Pierre lies the imf)()rtant fishinfi^ district of Fortune Hay, with the settlements of Fortune, Harbor Mriton, and Helleorem, besides many tiny hamlets in the deep coves. Then conje the broad inlet of Ilerndtivfre Hay, and the settlement of Hermitafre Cove, 9 miles from Harbor IJriton. At the head of the bay are the rich salmon- waters of a sheltered inlet called the Ihiy of Despair, whence old Indian trails lead throuf^h the wilderness to the Exploits River and the lakes of the interior. Fnau Hermitage Ray westward to Cape Ray the coast- line is almost straight, but fretted with innumerable small coves. The most important settlement is Burgeo, a village of 7<>0 inhabitants, on one of the Little Hurgco Islands. On the mainland opposite are the salmon-fisheries of (Jrandy's Brook. The next settlement is the fish- ing village of La Poile. Six niiles beyond is fJaria liay, with several villages on its shores; and then, 9 miles farther, the 1)usy little port of Rose Blanche. Thence the steamer passes Burnt Islands, and then Dead Islands, so named from their innumerable wrecks. These islands have been made illustrious by the heroic deeds of Gfovf/e Harvey, who dwelt on one of them during the early part of the century, and by his splendid skill and daring saved many hundreds of lives. The houses in all this region seem largely built of wreckage, and furnished with the spoils of ships. The last port of call for the western coastal steamer is the village of Chaund, or Port au Basc|ue, 4 miles W. of the Dead Islands. This is an important station for the transfer of cablegrams. It has a popu- lation of about 700, and famous halibut-fisheries in the vicinity. On every alternate trip the coastal steamer runs across the gulf to Sydney, X ^ z ^ I TRIPH FKOM 8T. JOHN H. 23: Cape Breton. Around Cape Ray, '\ or 4 niiU's W. of Clmnnt'l, lien the vast stn-leh of coast known as the West or French Shore, the scene of the present unpleasantnesses between Fianee and Newfound- land. Owln^ to the uncertainties .md ditTieidtics of <;overnnient in this section, and partly pcrha|)s to the dangcious character of the coast, whose safe harbors are widely sj'paralcd, the re|:;ion is little populated and less civilized. Vet it has j^iu-at natural resourci-s, the most ft-rtile soil and fairest climate in the colony; and when the dillicultics which now harass it have been brought to sonic satisfactory solution, it will doubtless become one of the most prosperous portions of the island. The change that would l)ring most immediate and pernuinent benefit would be uiuon with the Confederation of Canada. The French Nhorc. The French shore is not likely to attract, for the present, any but the most adventurous t(»urists, and these will not be troubled by the lack of such conveniences as highways, hotels, and rc^^idar commimi- eation. The region may be visited by the fortnightly packet from ('hannel, by the frequent coasting schooners, «)r most conveniently and comfortably by the steamer Ilarlaw, from Halifax and Cape IJreton ports. The total extent of the French shore, from ('ujtc liai/ X. to Ciipc /iaf(/, and down the X. E. coast to Cnpc St. John, is a (lis- tance of 4t>0 miles. Three miles back from ('ape Kay is the lofty Tnhlv J/otiii/din, 1,70<> ft. in height, with the summits of Sugar-I-oaf and Tolt Peak in the neighborhood. Eighteen miles X. of Cape Kay is Cape Anguille, and between these lofty headlands lie the fertile val- leys of the (Ircat and Little Codroy Rivers, with a scattered farming population. Xorth of Cape Anguille is the great inlet called St. George's Bay, running 5(> miles inland. Around its fertile and wooded shores are a few snuill villages, such as Sandy Point and Crabb's Brook, and some settlements of Micniacs. There are rich coal deposits in this region. From the head of the bay, where flows in (leorge's River, may be reuched, by ditti;ult trails, the strange, deep waters of the interior lakes, called " Ponds," of which the chief is Grand Pond^ 60 miles long by 5 in width. These waters are rarely seen by white men, and are reputed to swaim with fish, as do their shores with game. Toward the close of last century there took place on Grand Pond a great battle between the remnants of the Bo'othues 238 TRIPS FROM ST. JOHN S. \^i and the invading Micniacs from Xova Scotia, resulting in the extenni- nation of the Ud'othiies. The northern gate of St. George's Bay is Cape St. George. Twenty-five miles beyond is tlic moiitii of the vast harbor called Port an Party ])enotrating the land southward to within a mile of St. (Jeorge's Hay. Next comes the B odd miles tlie coast- line is little broken, till we come to the safe anchoiages of the Hay of Ingrenechoix. Near its northern boundary, called Point Ilich, is the fishing village of Port Saunders. Some 15 nnles fartliei' N. is the beau- tiful inlet of Bay St. John, at whose head flows in the almost unex- plored t'xNfor.s River, abounding with salmon in the lower portion of its course. Then comes St. Margaret's Bay, with the tiny handets of Old Ferolle and New Feroilc. Then, in succession, the iidets of Hay St. Genevieve, Bay St. Barbe, and Flower Cove, with its fishing settlement. Beyond are the famou.* novth shore scaling-grounds, wliei'e the coast is low and grassy; and presently we enter the barren S/rait of Bill c /s/r, 80 miles long by 12 in width, thronged with seals and swept by icy currents, separating Newfoundland from Labrador. The coasts and islands here are of the utmost desolation. At tiuies great herds of ice- bergs may be seen trailing slowly through the strait. On the desolate Isle of Quirpon is a small sealing handet. At the eastern entrance to the strait is the great rock, 9 nnles long by o broad, called, in strange irony. Belle hie. On its wide circumference there is but one point where a landing can be effected, and here, twice a year, are put ashore the stores for the lonely lighthouse-keeper, who has not even a bush on the whole island to cheer his solitude. lie has brought from the mainland many boat-loads of earth, endeavoring to form a garden-plot, but the soil is s{)eedily swept clean ott'by the terrible winds. It is not surprising that these islands of Belle Isle and Quirpon were called, of old, the hies of the Deitiom, and were represented in the ancient maps as peopled with devils of various species. The French explorers dared not land, save with crucifix in hand, on these dreadful shoies, where their ears were assailed with the clamor of demoniac voices. It was TRIPS FROM ST. JOHNS. 239 icy 11(1 ico- ato to ngo )iiit ore supposed, moreover, that the isles were the abode of a iiialif:fnr>at and terrible species of griffin. There may have been some material founda- tion for these tales, as, even so late as the summer of IH?'*?, the coasts were ravaged by pai-ks of gigantic wolves, who devouicd a number of people and besieged the settlers in their cabins. A romantic legend connected with these islands has been made the subject of a poem called ''Marguerite, or the Isle of Demons," by Mr. (Jeorge Martin, of Montreal. On tlie expedition which sailed under Koberval, in 1512, to found a colony at Quebec, wore the Viceroy's niece, the Lady Margue- rite, and a young courtier, her lover, whose suit was forbidden by Uo- berval. Their conduct seems to have enraged or scaiidali/ed the Vice- roy, for he put his niece ashore, with her old nurse, on the Isle of Demons, now Qiiirpon. "The lover leaped from the ship and joined the women, and the fleet sailed away. Then the demons and the hosts of hell began their assaults on the forsaken trio, tearing about their hut at night, menacing them on the shore, and assaulting them in the forest. But the penitent sinners were guarded by invisible bands of saints, and kept from peril. After many months, wearied l)y tliese fiendish assaults, the lover died, and was soon followed by the nurse and the child. Long thereafter lived Marguerite alone, until finally a fishing-vessel ran in warily toward the smoke of h<'r tire and rescued her, after two years of life among demons." The eastern portion of the French shore, from Cape Bald south- ward to Cape St. John, does not call for detailed mention here. There are fishing stations on the harbors of (Jriguet, Lunaire, St. Anthony ; the coaling station of Croc //arhnr ; Chouse Brook on White Bay ; and La Scie, 5 miles from Cape St. John. The most important waters are Hare Bay, the splendid landlocked harbor of CdttudH f.ai/, and the magnificent sheet of water, -l.") miles long by l."» wide, called White Bay. This bay has tine fisheries, and little fishing posts are scattered all about its shore. ot. ,'re fas Halifax to ISridgewater by the Atlantic Coast. The steamer Ci(i/ of Sf, John leaves Halifax every Monday evening, and connects with the lioston steamer at Yarmouth on Wednesday ; returning, leaves Yarmouth for Halifax every Thursday morning. The fare between Halifax and Yarmouth Viy this route is f 5 ; return, #8. The steamer calls at Lunenburg, Liveri)ool, Lockport, ' I (I 1 ; li J J 240 HALIFAX TO BRIDGKWATER. Sholbourne, and Barrinuton. The steamer IJridgewater, of the Coastal Steam Packet Co., sails every Wednesday morning at 8 o'eloek for Lunenburg and Liverpool, returning Tiiursday morning. P^very Satiir- day morning she sails for liridgewater direct, returning on Monday morning. Faies: to Lunenburg or IJridgcwater, >;'2 ; return, ^3. To Liverpool, |!;} ; round trip, i?r». Meals are not included in these prices. After |)assiug Sauibro, the boat runs some distance out to sea before turning westward, dreading the perilous Sambro Ledges. On tlie right lies IVnnant IJay, beyond which is Mars Head, near the scene of the wreck of the S. S. At/diific in IST^i, by which no fewer than 585 persons jterished. Here also were wrecked the IJritish war-ships North, Helena, and Mars, from which latter ship it takes its name. Next we pass the broad mouth of the lovely S(. Mia'f/r'.nr.s Jiai/, in whose shel- tered recesses lies the pleasant summer resort of the same name, reached by stage from Halifax. There are several little settlements scattered around the shores of this beautiful water, the most important of which is Hubbard's Cove. From the head of the bay there is a pleasant canoe route, with short portages, across the province to the waters of the Avon and Minas Hasin, with good fishing almost all the way. IJeyond St. Margaret's IJay we enter the mouth of another bay even more capacious than that we have just left, and only second to it for romantic beauty. In some weathers the steamer sails in to commu- nicate with the towns of Chester and Mahone Hay, whose harbors are somewhat shoal for large vessels ; but more usually she sails across the mouth in the direction of Cape La Have, leaving these towns to be served by the stage-coaclies. Chester is ir* miles l)y stage from Hali- fax ; 40 miles by similar cimveyance from Windsor. In summer it is one of the most delightful of watering-places, frecpUMited by charming society from Halifax and from the Southern States ; but in winter it has earned for itself the pathetic suhrlijuif oi " Chester-God-help-us." The town has a couple of comfortable hotels (of which the Lovett Hoase is the best), and about (iOO inhabitants of its own. Its scenery is delicious, its climate perfection ; and one may row and paddle and sail, catch cod or flounders or lobsters, go iri swimnnng, or loaf and invite his soul, as agreeably at Chester as anywhere else one can think of, in Nova Scotia at least. A delightful excursion from Chester is to Mount AsjjotoffcDi, from whose sunmiit one gets a magnificent view. Within easy reach of Chester, beyond Chester Basin, is the unrivaled salmon-water of Gold Hlvcr, frequented also by splendid sea-trout. HALIFAX TO BKIDGE WATER. 241 p us." iOVOtt All along the drive one lias endlessly changing views of Mahone Bai/s countless islands, on some of whieh are eo/v little Duteli farms. In among these islands, in the sunmier of 18 Hi, the American privateer Young Teaser was chased by two British war-ships. When the Ameri- can ship was utterly defeated, her officers blew her up rather than sur- render, and every man on board perished. The laigest of the Islands in the bay is Big Tancook, with a population of 540. The most inter- esting is Oak Jfifand^ one of the i)cst accredited of the mnumcrable claimants to the honor of having served as a hiding-place for the treasures of Cajitain Kidd. Treasure-seekers, sinking pits on the island, have found a host of mysteri»'s but no money. Shafts have been dug several hundred feet, through layei's of cut-stone and hewn timbers, strange grasses from the tropics, charcoal, putty, and caie- fully jointed planks. A great deal of capital has been mvosted in the effort cither to find the treasure or to solve the mystery of these under- ground works ; but at length the toilers came upon great stone drains conmiunicating with the sea, which adudttcd such floods of water that their pumps could not cope with it ; and the digging:- have boen aban- doned. The little town of Mahonc Bn;i is less attractive to summer visitors than Chester, but is far more business-like and prosperous. It is engaged in the Hsheries, and in building small ships for coasting trade. It has a population of about 1,0(H). Before reaching Voik- La Have the steamer turns into a fair aiul sheltered haven called by the Indians Malagash, or '' Milky," from the soft whiteness of its surf, and draws up to the wharves of Lunen- burg. This is a thriving (Jern)an town of o,0()(> iidiabitants, with large ship-building and mining intere.-ts, and an extensive trade in fish with West Indian poits. The town occupies a st<'cp slope, and shows up most eircctivcly as one approaches it from the sea. Its distance by water from Halifax is -15 miles, and its chief hotel is A7/*//'.s-. The town and county of Luncnljurg were settled in 1758 by (Jermans and Swiss, and the (Jerman langiuxge and (icrman customs still prevail in the district. We see women working in the fields like men, aiul cows yoked with oxen to do the hauling and the plowing. The great point of interest in the neighborhood of Lunenbm-g is the peninsula of Ovcnn Hind, distant about lo niiU>s. On this peninsula has been ob- tained, by washings, a large yield of gold. The place is remarkable for the strange caverns in its sea-face, called the " Orms,''^ whence it derives its name. These penetrate the cliff's lor several hundred feet, and ItJ :"'■ f ' ; ii 242 HALIFAX TO BlillKiEWATER. into their yawning jaws the great seas roar terrifieally. TJjere are, not unnaturally, many curious legends and traditions connected with the Ovens, the most remarkable — and least credible — of which is to the effect that once an Indian, being swept by wind and current into the largest ai)ertiire, was sucked into the bowels of the earth, to reappear, not seriously the worse for his astounding adventure, among the count- less isles of Tusket, at the S. W. end of the peninsula. After rounding the well-named headland of Point Enraj/e, the stcamei- enters the fine estuary of the In Have liive^\ and ascends it, on certain trips, 18 miles, to the town of Brid^ewatcr. The shores of La Have arc rich in his- tory, the district having been an important center of Aciidian coloniza- tion. Here the chivalrotis knight of Jerusalem, Isaac de Uazilly, had his headquarters, and here he died, untimel}', in H'di?, to the incalculable loss of Acadie. Fort La Ilfnc was the scene of many a well-fought battle between French and Knglish or New-Englanders, and the lover of anti- quarian research will find the neighborhood a fertile field for his work. The sail up the La Have is very beautiful, and the town of Ibidgewater is most fortunate in its situation. At the census of 1S81 it had a pop- ulation of 1,000, l)ut it is growing rapidly since the opening of the Nova Scotia Central Hallway, which has its offices and works at Bridge- water. Its chief business is the lumber-trade, and its great saw-'uils have practically destroyed, by their sawdust, the fishing in the La Have ; but of late other luanufaeturing interests have grown up. The chief hotel is the Fuirvkv\ $1.50 per day. At this point, or at Lunenburg, the traveler who is not going on down the coast takes the railway across the province to Middleton, on the Windsor and Annapolis R. K. [ii ! I; I' f i \ !• '. 1 '■ ! ij _U Bridgewater to Yarmouth. After leaving Bridgewater the boat rounds Cape La Have, and, after a run of 9 miles from the cape, passes the mouth of Port Mcd- way, a deep inlet, on which stands a hunbering village of the same name, with some TtOO inluibitants. There is a good deal of shin-build- ing at this little town, which often goes by the name of Mill Village. L<'aving behind (N)tfin's Island, the boat rounds into Liverpool Bn;i^ a fine harbor with well-peopled shores. At its head flows in the Liverpool River, the outlet of the beautiful Lah' liossi(/no/, the largest lake of Nova Scotia. The name of this lake is the old name of the harbor, given it by Dc Monts, in 160-1, in honor of a French captain whose BRIDGE W AT KR TO YARMOUTH. 243 3, and, Med- saino -biiild- [illage. ?«//, a |er|)0(»l ikc of [arbor, Iwhose ship he had confiscated for trading in the harbor without authority — which must have seemed to the unhapjn- captain a somewhat barren compenHation. At tlio mouth of tlie Liverpool River, on a rocky sliore, stands tlie pretty and well-kept town of Livcn'pool, with a popida- tion of nearly 5. (»(»(» and a thriving trade. Lumbering, fishing, and ship- btnlding, the st'ind-l)ys of all this coast, are the chitf support of Liver- pool, but she is also develnitjng some manufacturing interests, in the lines of machiiu'ry, IcatluT, matelu's, and iron-eastings. Tlie chief hotel is a home-hke house, called "The Village (Jreen." The town is a pleasant place to visit in summer, with some agreeable society, and fine trout-fishing in the surrounding waters — whose names are legion. During the War of 1812 Liverpool was a privateering center, aiul her ships preyed fiercely and successfully on Ameriean coiumerce. In days more ancient, whose history comes down to us with a somewhat more (piestiomible accuracy, the site of Liverpool was the realm of a mighty anJ malignant sorceress, who was righteously, if ungaliantly, attacked by the .Micmac demigod (iluskap. already referred to, and t(»rn to ])i«>ces, after a condiat whieh the stars stood still to witness. Leaving Liver|)o and a large fishing fleet. Argyle, with a population of TuO, is n.'ar by, on Abuj)tlc Harbor. After crossing the mourh of the harbor, and of Tusket River, we enter the myriad-islanded waters of Tusket Arclii- pelai^o. The scene is strangely beautiful. The islands are of every shape and size, rising boldly out of ocean depths. They stand out from the coast, unsheltered by beach or promontory, and the tides and storms sweep furiously through the narrow but profound passages that sunder them. Some of them are named, but most are nameless. A fanciful exph)rer might imagine he discovered tlie origin of the Tusket Islands in the innumerable Tuskd L*»»..'»(); (boat), *'). The stcainer Aljf/ta Icavi'S Yar- moiitli for Sf. J'>/in every Monday and Thursday, at I r. M., I'cturnin;^ Tuesday and Friday evenings. The Boston stniuicrs leave Yainiouth, durinf5 the suniiner season, on Monihiy, Wednes(h»y, Thurs(hiy, and Sat- in-day evenin.i^s, on arrival of liaUrax train; h'ave JJoston Tuesday, Wednesday, and Frichiy mornings at 1<), and Satunlay morning at 6. Fare from Halii'ax to IJoston vUi Yarmouth, JJ^S/JO; I'oinid trip, sj^l r»,r>(>. The Hii/inil/(t/ tielvet, allowing one to stop off at any plaee or places along the way, is ^O.oO. The promiiu'iiee attained by Yarmouth as a shipping port is rather in spite of than by reason of her harbor, which is straitened and tide-vexed, anf/(/in, (rmprreaiix, and Indian liivrrs, whose pools and runs will suiely satisfy the most exacting angler. Caiiso is on Chedabucto Hay, 32 miles S. E. of (JuysVjorough. It has a population of about l,r>Ot», and is the western terminus of several of the Atlantic cables, whose operators give the town some pleasant society. At this point a company of ('anadian and American capital- ists is proposing to erect a great city, to be called the Teriiiiiial Cifif, whence fast steamers are to traverse the Atlantic and lightning ex- presses rush westward. This schi-me is pretty fully developed, and may perhaps be carried out, in which case the splendid Ray of Ciieda- bucto would emerge from its present obscurity. The town of (iuys- borough is described in another place. From Halifax to Yarmouth by Rail. The fare from Halifax to >'/. Jo/in by this route is >;,->. SO ; to Jios/oii, via Yarmouth, !?S.20 ; to Yarmouth, *t>. •")'•; to Ati)ia/)i>lis, $3.80; to Biidgenmfer, via Midtlleton and Nova Scotia Central R. R., 1^4. Vo ; to Kentvllle, $2.15; Wolfrillc, $1.95; W'ind.sor, $1.38. The steamboat express leaves Halifax in the early morning and runs through to An- ' «l li 248 FROM IIAF-IFAX Tt) YAKMOlTH HY RAIL. nupolis, i;}0 iiiilt'8, in about six liouirt. An express leaves Ilalifux for Kentvilie at three in tlic aflernoo!!. From Halifax to Wiinhor Jmiv/ ion t\w tvu\u runs over the rails of the Intcreolonial l)V a route alreaily tlescrihid ; and Itedt'ord Ilasin takes on new pliases (tf Itcatity in the fresh lij:ht of the nioi'nin<;. Tliree miles beyond VVinilsor Junction is the station (tf Meaver Hank; and In miles farther is Mtnnit ('iilnrkc, the scat of the I'niaeke estate and of valuable f^old-mincs. The settlement lies ix'tween two small roek-bound lakes. Another lo miles l)ri ps us to the pieturcs(|ue set- tlenuMit of h//()'.sfi(>iisf, seattered over a suceessioii (»f windin^r hills and valleys. This was onee a very tlouiishing villap', with a pul[)-ndU and large Iund)ering interests, and took its nanu' from its founder, a wealthy (Jfinuin of hi;:h Itirth, with the failure of whose biisiness came to an end the piosperity of the villaj^e. The line Kllershausen Place is beautifully situated at the liead of a romantic f^Kii, .lown whicli its grounds extend. A few miles iidand from Kllershouse rises Ardoise Monntabi (pronounced Aidicc), whose summit is tlu; iiij;hest point in tlie province. A short distance Iteyond the village the train crosses the *S^/. CVo/x River, which is at tliis ))oint a pictures(|ue stream, with tl>e ruins of a mill «'lingin*r to its rocky l»anks. The St. Croix is the otitlet of the famous Ponhnok Jjtkra, with fine scenery and excellent trout- fishing. The trout of Ponhook run to a good size and are very game. Owing to their comparative inaccessibility these waters are not over- fished, and tliey will well repay a visit by c^noe. Three miles from EUei'shousc is Newport Station, the center of a fertile farming district. At this point heavy shipments of plasti-r arc made by rail. All about Newport lie populous agricultural villages, reached by stage. Three miles beyond Newport we [)ass the way station of Thiee-Mile Plains. Yet 8 ndlcs farther and we run out upon the rich juarshes between the St. Croix and Avon, sweep round the grassy hill of Fort Kihrard^ and run into the excessively unpretentious station of the town of Windsor. Windsor is a wealthy little town 4(5 nnles from Halifax, with a population, according to the census of 1S81, of 3,010, but now esti- mated at something over 4,(»00. Its shipping is enormous, and it ranks as the third ship-owning port in Canada. It is largely interested in the South American trade, and ships great (|uantities of white and blue plaster from the Wentworth and other ((uarries to P»o>ton, New York, and Philadelphia. In the neighborhood are the gold-mines of litimlon^ WINDSOlf. 241) of liiti'ly opened and provinjr vory prodiiflivo. Windsor lias also \av^v cotton, funiituro, and leather faetories, hesidfs an extensive lron-1'oiir.- dry. Its only public biiildinle for ocean ships to the wharves of Wcntworth. The Avon lihuv, which forms the harbor of Windsor, is a lirge tidal stream emptying into the Basin of Minas, VI miles below the town. At high water it is like an inland sea, amply deep for any ship aHoat ; and with the Hood- tide come ships, and yachts, and tugs, and steauicrs, flocking to the wharves of Windsor. At low tide it is but a rivulet, ami fairly justi- fies the gibes of Charles Dudley Warner, who writes of the Avon as follows : " I never knew before how much water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was (piite a ghastly spectacle, an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide, I should think it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs first one way and then the other, and then vanishes altogether." The ancient name of Windsor was IMzicpiid, meaning " The Junction of the Waters." Here stood a populous and pi-osperous Acadian set- tlement, till the great banishment in I'l^y'^. After the lands of the Acadians had lain for some years vacant, settlers from Massachusetts and Rhode Island were brought in to occupy the townships of Newport and Falmouth, while Windsor it-self was allotted to retiring British 2r>o FROM HAMFAX TO YAiniolTII UY KAIL. fl ollicrrs, niid Ih'ciuiio out' of the social cciittM'rt of tlic provliuT. Kitif^'s Collt'j't', tlic oldi'st of Kiifiland's coloniiil univrrsitics, was foiiiidud in 171MI, oil Oxford iiiodols, and was f^ivrii a roval charter in Lsn-J. It is und(M' the pntroiia^).' of tlic Aiclibisliop of ('aiitciliiirv, and is a Ciiuivii of Kniiof^ ii ])rosperourt institution, and iidjoinin}f them on the E., on a roomy hillside, arc tlie grounds and Imildings of " AiA/r/////," the newly-estahlished " Church School for (rirls." A favorite walk is from town out to the colle^^e woods, through a willowed avenue that crosses the ravine of the disused plastcr-(|uarries. and past the gate- house of CVz/i'oj*, the old Iliiliburton estate where '' Sam Slick " used to live. This historic estate, with its delightful old country-house em- bowered in ancient trees, no longer belongs to the Ilaliluirton family, but is always known as the "Sam Slick House." The chief hotels of Windsor are the newly-fitted-up and excellently ecjuipped Dufi'o'hi f/o/d (once the Clifton House), whose roomy structure is the most con- spicuous object near the station; and the Victoi'ia (Doran's), an old and popular house, now undergoing extensive '' tprovenu'iits which will bring it quite up to the re(iuirements of the day. Among the other liotels may be mentioned .]/oniiv(\s and tlu' Soiucrscf I/ousc. A cab or two is usually in attendance at the station, and carries travelers to the hotels or pctints in town for 25 cents. The livery ehargcs of the establishment furnishing these cabs (Townahend's stal>les) are very moderate. Windsor to Farrsboro and St. John, by Boat. The steamers of the St. .John and Minas IJasin Line run between Windsor and St. John, calling at Nati/sjiorf, /{ItH/s/xn't, Parrsboro, and iSjn')icn'\^ J,sl Avon's mouth with th<> ti(h> i.s rharmin^' in Hnu wt'iitlit'P. Till' aiiiplc ri\ »'i' can liy no stroti-h ol' fani'V ho nilii-d hluc ; Ixit hlui'iu'ss is soiiirtliing of whicli wt- liav*- l»y this time jri'own wi'll-nijrh surlt'itcd. Tlie slioivs* are a sut'ct'ssion of lirli, rollinir liiils, set witli prospiM'ous villnjres ; for tlu' soil of tliis icjiion is of iiouiidli'ss fertil- ity. As we lun out of the Avon we pass on oui' h'l't a hij;h lilulf, whose face is a mine of fossils and specimens to delight the mineralo<;ist. As we cross the svvayin;.' expanse of M'nniH linxin, the poiideKuis front of liloiii'iilnu (described in later paj;es) Is the dominalinir ohjecl, dwarling the dark brows of lival promontories, and recallinir many a romantic tradition. Hunni.i^ past its foot, we find that this j.dant loses none of his impressiveness on close inspection. Kven while we arc in luoad sunshine, the dark summit towH'rinj; above may be w ithdraw n from view, wrapped in the fo^s that loll over it from Fundy. At this point we command a maj;nificent view up the Hasin, i)ast the quaint nms-fcs of Five IsIiuiiIh, up C'ofx'i/iiiif /)"//, to the very mouth of the Sltnlx iinrmViv liiver, while far behind lies the uu'adow <»f (iniml /'/•/. From Iflomi- don we run across the mouth of the Btisin to the villijic of I'nrrsboro, on a small river at whose mouth the steamer stops. As we mal.e fast to the mossy tiMd)ers of the pier, our view out into tlu- Hay of Fundy is cut off by the ncai' heiiihts of I'or/rlihf hhitnl, an abrupt and somber- wooded hill which ceases to be an island at low water. This island is the center (»f many (iluskap lej^cnds, and here took place (Jluskap's famous cprousal with the diviiu' Kit-poosece-a-}i()o-n<», at whicii a whole whale was eaten. At Pm't'xhitro I'ly a drive (tf aliout a mile and a half from the pier. There are several small hotels, of which the most comfort- abh; is the Doniiuion Jf<>nst\ The chief business of Parrsboro, support- ing^ a population of something over l,<>')i), is the shipping of lumber. It is the best center from which to reavh the wild back country of Cum- bi'rlaud County, famous for its moose and bears, and its comparatively virgin fishing-waters. (Jiiides may be hired in the town. A run of :\'l miles by rail will enai»le one to visit the prosperous coal-miiiing town of Spriiigliill, a thoroughly typical coal town. I'arisboro lies, by water, just 3'* miles from Windsor. Delightful drives may l»e taken in the neighborhood, to Apple l\lilif, liter- seeth- )out a 111 the Per- ^^I^Hnl i:SI()\ OK TllK ACADIANS. n i ; ' Jf It is t<) l»i' prosuini'tl that tlie tourist will tjo tlirouf^h this repiou with im open volume of " Kvanuoline " in his houd, or at least with a copy (»f liOiifrfcllow in his pofkut. Ilt'iiuc, extoiKU'd quotations from tlic iiohli' and touiliinp; poem, which has immortalized this region and crystallized in men's minds a somewhat mistaken view of the tra;iedy here enai-ted, mij^lit he consideied superfluous. Nevertheless we ap- pend one extract, in which the Acadian village is iiiimitalily descrihed : '• In tlic Acadian laud, on tlic shores of the ISasiu of ^liiias. |)i>Uuit. secluded, still, llir liltle vilJ!i;.'L ofiiiand I'rc Lay in tlic fniiirul valley. \ ast i!iead(>\vs stretched to tlic eastward, (iivin^' the \illajj,(' its name, and pastiiic to (locks uiliioui iMiinhcr. Dikes, thai the hands nf tlic fariiicis had laisfd with hiiior incessant. Shut out the miiuilenl iidi's; hut at ciTtaiu seasons the lloodtratcs Opened, and welcomed tlic sea to wander at will o'er the nuadows. West and s-uitli thcii' were fields nf (lax. and orchards and curn-ficld- S|)iea(!iiiir alar and nnfeiiccd o'er the plain: and away to the i.oiliiward Ulonrulini rose, and thi' lou'sl- old, and alul't on the iiioniitains Si'a-ro'^s [litclicd tlii'ir ti'iils. and ini^ts from the miiihty Atlantic Looked on the hapjiy v;i!lcy, imt ne'er from their station dcsecniU'd. '{'here, ill the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian villa^'c. Stion<.'ly built wt'ie the hoiiM's. with frames of oak and of chivtmit. Such as the peasants of Noiniandy hiiiit in the rei^^n of the lleiuics. Thatched wcn' llu' roofs. with doimerw indows; and jxahlcs proj((tin>i Over the hasi'incnt lielow piotcctcd and shaded the doorway. Thevc in the traiuiuil evciiinfzs of siunmcr. when Itri^xhtly the siuiset. Lighted the villa;:c sticet. and <:il(lcd the vanes on the chimneys, Matrons and niai their w indows; Hut their dwelliufrs were open as day and the heaits of the owners; There the riehe(5t was pour, and the poorest lived in abundance.'' [*i '"^^S::--. ^^>^^- IH^^^IHH^^^^I Cape Split. 1 f ^ * •;f' ' WINDSOR TO (iUANI) IMiK. 2r).> The pathos and appeal of the Acadian story, as told by Lonpfellow should not be allowed to blind us to the fact that the pitiful fate of the Acadians was a measure of absolutely neeessary justice. In spite of the most earnest pleadings, the frankest threatenings, and forty years of unparalleled forbearance, exercised long after forbearance had ceased to be a virtue, the Acadians [)ersisted in a deadly enmity to a government whose subjects they unquestionably were. They refused to allow themselves to be considered as other than enemies, and not only did they engage, along with the savages, in occasiomil bloody raids upon the English settlements, but their presence in the colony made a point of almost fatal weakness in its defenses, at a time when England was engaged in what was practically a lifc-and-death struggle with her great antagonist. The indidgence of the English (loverninent was re|)aid by the Acadians with hatred, and sometimes with the seal ping-knife. Undoubtedly these people believed tluy were acting aright. Had they been left to themselves, they would have become, in the course of a generation, loyal and contented subjects But they were made the tools of French intrigue. From Quebec every effort was continually put forth to keep alive their bitterness against their con- ((uerors, and their belief that Acadia would once more be brought be- neath the sway of France. When they began to show signs of a desire to accept the situation, and when persuasion on the part of (2ur/'//'.s" (ioonc Poslnre.'''' Next comes Auburn ('.K» ndles), and then Kin;:;st(m (•.♦."» miles). A short drive fi'Din Kin \vatei'> of the sprinf]^s are ^rowinj; rapidly in re- pute, and a delicious, sparklinering settlement of Para- dlne, with tine granite in the neighborhood. Within easy reach are capital trout-wateis. Next we come to Brid$;ctown, 110 miles from Halifax and 14 from Annapolis, This is a stirring little town of some- thing over 1,000 iidiabitants, at the head of navigation on the Annapo- lis River. It has good water-power, which it utilizes in furniture and organ factories. The surrounding country is prosperous and thickly settled, which gives Bridgetown a large local trade. In the neighbor- hood is Bloody Brook^ so called from a massacre of New England WOLFVIM.E T(» ANNAl»OIJS. 251) troops by the Firncli iind tlioir Indian allies. The chief hotels of Hridf^etown are Chnfr\s and the (Jrmid Central. Fioui Uridj^etown to Annapolis is the prettiest part of the journey after h-avinj^ Kentville. The views fn»ni tlw ear-windows lire lull of , and astoral ustoric House, Para- ch are s from sornc- nnapo- re and hickly [ghbor- Insland Annapolis to Yarmouth. At Annapolis we arrive about one o'clock ; and if we are froing rifrht through to Digby we stay on the train, which presently carries us out upon the steamboat wharf. The old historic town of Annapolis, or Avvapo/in lioifnl, has a fair and sheltered site, and we fail to won- der that it attracted the regard f>f French navigators fresh from tlie rough breast of Fundy. The Basin was discovered by that expedition of De Monts and Champlain. in KiOl, that went on to found the ill-fated settlement on St. Croix Island. The survivors remembered alfeetion- ately the lovely shores of the Basin, and fled back thither from St. Croix. The region was granted to liaron Poutrincourt, who named it Port Royal; and in 1006 came a little cot, who became the chronicler of the set- tlement. He inaugurated that " Order of a Good Time,'''' whose high hearted mirth makes so bright a spot in those annals of strife and privation. The members of the order were fifteen, and their head was the " steward," whose oflTice was held for a day at a time by each member in turn. The steward's responsibility was heavy. lie had to provide an attractive bill of fare for the day's dinner — and material for such a task was not always abundant at Port Royal. At each feast it was re(piisite that there should be one entirely new delicacy. To- ward spring the wine ran low, and instead of throe (pi arts to each mem- ber the daily allowance was reduced to one poor pint. This merry order doubtless did much to keep up the heart of the lonely little colony diu'ing the long and trying winter; and only three deaths occurred. In the month of January the order went on a six-mile picnic, to see if the corn they had sown in November had begim to sprout beneath the snow ! Trouble began at Port Royal through the interference of the Jesuits, to whom Poutrincourt was unfriendly. The Jesuits in a sh«>rt time left the colony and established a new settlement called St. Sauveur, at 200 ANNAT'OIJS TO VAIfMOITU. Mount Desert. When tliis was dcHlmyctl hv a Viri;inian ('X|»(Mliti(»n uti(h>r Ar^all, tlio Ji'siiits Ird the enemy on to Tort Koynl, wliiili was speedily laid waste. Thus liejj'an, in l(il:{, the stni;.'f?h' lietwcen Knime and Knjjhin 1 for the New Woiid, wliii-li ended not till 17ti:i. Ki'oin its I'oundin;,' till its eaptin-e by New-Kn;.'hindcis in 17 1'*, the story ol Port Royal is an emlless siieeession of eaptuics and recaptures, and ehanj:;. inj^ masters. In 17l'> its nauie was altcied to Anna|)«dis Koyal. In th(! next year oeein-red the massaere of Hloody Mi'ook, already ndVrred to; and thou-ih from this diite Annapolis remaiiu'd in the hands of the En<;lish, the followinj^ forty ycai-s saw it kept in an almost perpetual state of HWif^e by the hostile! Indians and Ae;idians. After the exile of the Aeadians tlie settlement tasted the unwonted d«'lii:hts of peaee till 17^*1, when it was attacked in the niLrht by two Ajnei'ican war- ships. The fort was captured and its <;uns spiked ; and the towns-folk were locked up in the block-house while the unwelcome visitors looted the town. The cdd block-house may yet be seen, and much of the fort is still in ji^ood repair. The view from its ramparts of sod is very love- ly and altoi^ether unwarlikc. The foit is imperial prop(>rty, aa is also Fort Edward at Windsor. Most of the other strongholds in Canada, outside of Halifax, were surrendered by Enfrland to the Canadian Ciov- ernment at the time of confederation, in 18t»7. Annapolis had in 1881 a populati(m of 2,800. Its chief hotels are the inilH(fal(\ Amiflmn, and Cfi/fou. The town is almost surrounded by water, an extension of the Basin on one side, and ltiil>ly Ik' n'opoiunl oro \o\\ Indians), and to tlu> wondcrt'iil tioiit-watrrs of tlic liivci'iMtol I,ak«'S, Ht'ur lliver, y miles I'loni IHirlty, is a husy little shippinj: port, witii saw-inills and a tannery. It is most romanti«-ally situated in a deep valley, so sheltered tliat Spriii;; finds her way thither soiiu; weeks he- fore she ean be persuaded to smile «)n the rest of the provinee. The time to visit Hear Kiver is emphatically in the eherry-season— for her ehcrrii'S are nowlii're to he surpassed. It is a lovely sail down the Hasiii to nij,'l>y, on the calm tide, he- tween the varlt'd and manyeolored shores. Ili^by, whieh lies on a curve of shore jusl beyond the oi»enin<^ ealled l)iifh>i (hit, is a favorite summer resort, and well supplied with hotels. The ehief of these is the Mjli'ilv /loif.sr, followed by the lioiinl, (Jrozin'\'<, Slmrt's, and Ih linlht- hiinVs. Digby has the invii^fuatin;; sea air of the Hay of Fiindy, which is only 15 miles distiint, behind the nioimtain, and is free from the fo;^ anil the chill. The sea-bathiiij; is pxMl, thnu^'h colder than at Annapo- lis, and there is good sport to be had in the way of salt-water lishing; while the boatinp, of cotirse, is all thiit could be wished. Dij^by has a population of between '2,000 and 5^,^ and is extensively en;iaged in shi|)-buildin^ and fisheries. Tlie hei . Ji'.' known as " Dij^by chickens " are famous throughout tlu; Maritime rrovinces for their delicacy. A prominent object ntMU- the station is a field full of little wooden plat- forms, on which the sjilit cod are dried for export. T\\c pirr of UUjhtj is a long and lofty st.ucture, at different portions of which a landing is effected, according to the state of the tide. The fluctuation of tide liere is somewhere about fO ft., and the tremendou.s currents every now and then work disaster for the pii-r, which seems forever being rebuilt. The traveler who is bound for St. John turns northwestward from Digby. After steaming a couple of miles along a fair and lofty sloping shore, the steamer enters the fine scenery of Digby (bit, or, as it was called of old, St. George's Chamiel. This passagi; is a gigantic cleft in the North Mountain, nearly 2 miles through, and about luilf a mile in width, with bold, darkly-wooded shores from aOO to 000 ft. in height. On the eastern slope perch a few airy cottages, making up an ideal fi.shing village; and the reddish-gray lines of a winding road seem as if tliey were painted on the steep incline. Through the " Gut " sweep terrific tides, boiling and eddying, and tossing violently the fishermen's boats which dot its surface. The Fundy gate of the passage is usually 262 ANNAPOLI8 TO YARMOUTH. h I white with surf. Digby Gut is satisfying, always, to the lover of the picturesque ; but it is never more so than when one enters it from the bay, and looks through its grand [)ortals into the favored haven Iteyond. The traveler bound for Yarmouth takes the train of the Western Counties Railway at the head of the pier, and presently is carried into Digby Station. The fare from Digby to Yarmouth is I'i, and the dis- tance 77 miles. The railway lies some distance back from the coast, along which are most of the settlements ; and travelers who wish to visit the picturesque Acadian district of Clare may do so very con- veniently from Digby bj driving. Clare is settled by returned Aca- dian exiles, and mainUiins its peculiar individuality with great persist- ence. It is almost as quaint as (yhezzetcook. The settlements are like one long village street, for miles ; and back of the cottages run the narrow strips of the oft-subdivided farms. The district lies along the shores of the deep bay of St. Maryh, whose waters are separated only by a narrow isthmus from those of the Annapolis IJasin. The bay is divided from the Bay of Fundy by the long line of mountains, a con- tinuation of North Mountain, known as Digby Neck. This curious peninsula, which is only from a mile to a mile and a half in width, runs 20 miles seaward, and is continued for another 20 miles by I^ng Inland and Bner Island. The Neck and the Islands are settled by a picturesque and hardy fishing population, whose centers are the quaint out-of-the-world villages of Sandy Cove, Free Port, and Wesljxwf, reached by stage and ferries from Digby. The most important station on the Western Counties Railway, after leaving Digby, is Weymouth, a remarkably pretty little ship-building town at the mouth of the Sis- aihoo River, some distance up St. Mary's Bay. Weymouth hjj» a large West India trade, and a population of about 1,800. The chief hotel is the American House. Two or three miles up the river is the village of Wci/mouth Bridge, whose chief inn is Jo7ics's Hotel. A short dis- tance beyond foam the pretty Sissiboo Falls. Soon the railroad leaves St. Mary's Bay and strikes through a rough country dotted with trout-waters, to Yarmouth. The most important stations on this sec- tion of the line are Metsgan, Brazil Luke, Ohio, and Hebron. Yar- mouth has been already described. The train stops at Yarmouth Sta- tion, and then runs down on to the wharf with the passengers for the boat. Presently the traveler finds himself mo. .ig slowly down the Yarmouth River, emerging from whose narrow pass the boat heads straight across the open Atlantic for Boston. over of the it from the veil beyond, le Western carried into md the dia- 1 the eoiist, ■lio wish to > very eon- urned Aca- 3at persist- iits are like es run the s along the irated only The bay is lins, a con- liis curious in width, s by Long 'ttled by a the quaint ant station symouth, }f tlie iSis- i|^ a large ihief hotel the village short dis- e railroad otted with n this see- on. Yar- iiouth Sta- rs for the down the oat heads 4 if if .^^ii^ii/I^^TTt^^ f?U 05 3 £< 'I a m APPENDIX FOll 8P0KTSMEN. . t s V5 3 ;5 s o .8 a \i Toi'iusTS who sock Eiisteni (;itiia(la for tho sake of s|)ort may lo«)k for eei'tain frt'iioral iiifonnatioii wliitli has not st'omed to Hntained in Canadian cities at a mueli lower price, for like (piality, than in llie great American centers. The Ca- nadian dealers have the advantage of a lighter taritf, and they do not charge fancy jjrices. Tackle of all kinds, of the best Canadian and English manufacture, can be bought in Toronto, Montreal, (Quebec, St. John, or llalifa.x, at figures which would be impossible in New York or Boston. The favorite "all-round" rod of the present writer is a heavy trout-rod with which he has killed some fine salnion. It is made of green-heart and lance-wood, nickel-mounted, and with neat basket- work grip ; and it cost but ^Kt. It was made by Scribner, of St. John. Supplies that are obviously personal are usually j)assed through the customs without demur. Hut luxuries like tobacco, with eatables and drinkables generally, are pretty sure to be taxed ; and the ti'av- eler may save himself trouble by waiting till he is across the border before laying in his stock. Canadian tobacco is but American leaf made up in Canada. As for wearing apparel, that is regarded very liberally, and one may take an ample wardrobe without being <(ues- tioncd. No one wants to smuggle clothing from America into (Janada, for obvious reasons. Let the sportsman, then, come generously s»ip- plied with warm flannels (uidess he prefers to purchase these en rouit), for, however hot the days may be on Canadian fishing- waters, the nights are apt to be chilly. A word in regard to board in private houses. This is usually plain, and always inexpensive. It is not often as high as $1 per day or $i> per week. Throughout the Maritime Provinces, at least, good aceom- niodationa may be found alm()St anywhere at $A per week. (Juides and camp help ask from $1 to ^l.fti) per day, according to locality. On the Tobiciue River an Indian guide supplies his services and hi.s canoe for ^l or $1.25 per day, and his board. The variation in the 264 APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN. V. « charge is {Impendent on the season, the guide's liunior, and the demand for his services. On the Restigouehc a guide witli canoe charges $1.50 a day, and finds liiinself ; or $1.25 per day witli board. To avoid disappointments, tlie tourist sljould bear in mind that in the provinces of Quebec and New lirunswieli the best salmon rivers, and many of llie best trout-waters, are leased to piivate persons or tishing clubs. Lists of the leased waters are issued annually by the Provincial (Jovernments, and full informatiim on the subject may be obtained by application to the Fisheries Coiiunissioners of these two provinces, at Quebec and Fredcricton res[)cctively. Armed with such information, the true sj)ortsman will find no dilHculty in getting the hospitality of most of the leased waters extended to him, for a longer or shorter period. In Ontario and Nova Scotia the watei's are not leased, as a rule, and the fishing rights rest primarily in the hands of the riparian owners, who, indeed, sometimes lease their privile.Lies. In Nova Scotia spoitsmen, as a rule, fish wherever they find good waters, without making any minute inquiry into riparian rights. This freedom is a great convenience to the hasty traveler, who does not make up his mind till the last moment as to the direction of his wanderings. LIST OF LESSEKS AND NUMBKR OF FISH CAUOIIT MY ANOLINCi IN THE RIVKRS OF QUEBEC DUKlNCi THE YEAR 18'.K). (From the Jiej)ort of the CoitunUi^ioner of Crown Lands.) North Shokk. RIVERS. LESSEES. Yearly rent. (iodbout York Sa^uenay (part) John Alfred Petit | $25 Tlionias Murdoch . . [ .'i.'jO jj. G. Aylwhi Crcighton. liS No. of salninns. No. of trout. Little Saguenay Trinity Murray Moisic St. Jean (Chicoutimi) A. Mars Laval Stf. Marguerite (N(»fth branch) Ste. Marguerite (West branch) I N. Pendleton Rogers i 405 .lotin I), (iilinour 1>. ('. Thoiuson* John llolliday.. Evan John Price WesBonneau, etc A la Truite (St. Maurice) Pebeloganang C. W. Philipps Walter M. Brackett Ste. Marguerite Salmon Club R. Kioonan Henry E. Hart T. V. R. Brown i:^0 105 180 ;]05 85 a')5 15 15 10 15 oua- uaniclie NoHuhing 118 82 No tlshiug 24 ()!t No fishing (i20 None 70 ()•)() .50 . * Transferred to W. II. Blake, Toronto. APPENDIX KOK SPOKTSMKN. 265 North SiionK.—{('o/itinu<5 120 !*0 iiO 1.50 10 5 H No. of snliiiuiis. No Hshiny Nolishin;.' 1 No. of trout, 1)31 5J,W5 717 a,5!»4 1,31(1 No llshin^ « ^. No lishini: Nolisliin<: ::::::::•: .'i5^1 No tishiii;,' " ini) * Transferred to the " Penn Fishinj,' and (;auie Chib of (Quebec," Oct. il, IHIM). + Transferred to W. II. IJlake, Toronto. SoirTH Shouk. Nonvolle Bcnj. Woy., I.ittle Cascapedia W. Si. Rnmt S105 ay. Hestif^onche (lirst part) !)r. F. W. Campbell 5.'50 Itestiiioiiche (second i)art) i" Hesti^oncht' S. Club". liestit,'onche (fourth |)art) '.James Hobinson I{estifj;o\iche (liflli part) ISauniel Davis l.ittle Pabos i Louis Cabot (irand Hiver ] L. Z. .Joncas. M. 1' Spider and Arnold iThe Mej:antic F. it (.'•. Clul).]'.(/ Ronaventure | W. II. Thoine Matapedia Sir (ieo. Stejjhen (Jrand Pabon (N. S. P.) jllenry llopin Ste. Anne des .Monts I " •• Dartmouth iStephens W. White (Jrand CaHcapedia III. K., the (Jov.-tieneral. 101 5 410 00 100 .•^50 80 '.i.')0 505 1 3S) 13r. 550 iNoflyhinjr 1(11 ()<> 3 7a ai 1H7 cm 1 )0 The following li.st gives the present lessees of Xew Brunswick waters : Hestigouehe River: From mouth of UpsaUniiteh to Toad Hrook, H. B. IloUin.s, of New York ; from Toad Brook to Tom's Brook, Sauiuel 266 APPENDIX KOU KPORTKMEN. Thorne, of New York ; from Tom's IJi-ook to Tatapedia River, Lainos M. VVatcrbury, of New York ; from Tatapedia to Traeey's llrook, HeH- tigouelie Salmon ('lul), of New York; from Tracey'n Brook to Qua- tawamkedj^wiek, Archibald Rogers, Hyde Park, New York; from 1. C. R. R. Bridge to moutii of U|)sakiuit('h, Restigouelie Salmon Club, New York ; from below I. C R. R. liridge to Flatlands, Miemae Salmon Club; below Flatlands, held by loeal lessees. Jacquet River, Samuel Street, of New York. Upsalquiteh : From mouth to Forks, Ezra (•, Fiteli, of Waltham, Mass. ; remainder of stream and branches, Ezra C Fitch, of Waltham, Mass. Nepisiguit : From mouth to Indian Reserve, V. B. Burnham, St, Louis, Mo.; from Indian Reserve to (Jreat Falls, C. B. Burnham, St. Louis, Mo.; from (ircat Falls to head of river, C. B. Burnham, St. Louis. :>. Miramiehi : Northwest and branches above Big Sevogle, R. R. Call, Newcastle, N. B. Pokemoucho River and branches, K. F. Burns, IJathurst, N. B. Big Tracadie and branches, Edward Jack, Fredericton, N. B. Renous and Dungarvan, M. Tennant, Fredericton, Dungarvan Fish- ing Club. Green River, The Tobique Salmon Club, W. T. Whitehead, Fred- ericton. Tocologan (Charlotte), James II. (Janong, St. Stephen. Kedron stream and lakes (Charlotte), E. H. Bradshaw, Boston. Clear Lake (St, John), James F. Hamilton, St. John. South Ocomocto Lake, W. II. Barnaby, St. John, Tobique and branches, The Tobi^iue Salmon Club, Cain's River and branches, A, S. Murray, Fredericton. Tabusintae River, Thomas R. Jones, THE LAKE ST, JOHN COUNTRY. The management of the Hotel Roberval at Lake St, John controls considerable ouananiche fishing, which is open to guests of the hotel. This fishing is at its best in June and early July, although there is a renewal of activity in September. The late July and August fishing is characterized by more than the proverbial uncertainty of piscatorial pursuits, but there is always trout-fishing as a compensation. The following is a list of fiahing-clubs along the line of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway : APPENDIX lOU SIMUM'SMKN. 207 Little Sap;ucnay. Metabetchouan. Talbot (open on payment of a fee). Paradise Kin an to May 1. Speckled trout (>S to December 1. N. 1>. — Ani^lin^' by hand (with hook and line) is the only means permitted to be used for takiiij:; fisli. (No person who is not domiciled in the province of Quebec can at any time fi0, or imprisonnicnt in default of payment. No person who is not hunt in this province without having pre- viously obtained a license to that effect from the Commissioner of ('rown Lands. Such permit is not transferable. The export of deer, wild turkeys, (puiil, and partridge in carcasses or parts thereof from the Don)inion at any time is prohibited. Penalty, ?>l(iO and forfeiture. PROVINCE OF NKW BRUNSWICK. SiiooTiNfi. — It is unlawful to hunt, take, kill, or wound any moose, deer, or red deer, during three years after April fi, 1SS8, under a pen- alty not exceeding |2(K), nor less than *1(»<). IJcaver, otter, mink, sable, and fisher. May 1 to Septcndjer 1. (j rouse or partridge, December 1 to September '20. Woodcock, Deeember 1 to September 1. Snipe, Mareli 1 to September 1.1. ]>lack duck, wood duck, and teal, May 1 to September 1. Other ducks, brant, geese, and other water-fowl shall not be hunted with ai'tificial light, nor with swivel nor pu!»t guns, or trapped or netted at any time. Sea-gulls are protected iu the parish of Grand Manan at all seascms; song-birds and insectivorous birds en- tirely protected. No person not having his domicile in the province of New Ih'unswick shall bo entitled to hunt or kill any game bird or animal, or fur-bearing animal, in the province without a license, which may be ol)tained from the Provincial Secretary, Fredericton, N. 15., or from J. Do Wolfe Spurr, Es(i., Chief (Jamo Commissicmer, St. .Tnhn, N. B., l)y i)ayment of a fee of ^'10 — license to b(> in force for one year from the 1st day of Septe?nber in each year. Olfieers of lier Majesty's service can obtain a license for i^'t. 270 AITKNOIX FOR SI'OKTSMKN. NEW BRUNSWICK AND NOVA HC'OTIA. Fishing — Saliuon (net-fislnn<;), Auf;;iist 15 to Mairh 1. Salmon (anf^liiif:;), Soptomber IB to February 1. Salmon (Rt'stigouilK' River), Auf^ust 15 to May 1. Speckled trout, October 1 to April 1. Lar^e gray trout, liitif^e, ouananieli(>, and laiidloeked nalmon, October 1 to April 1. Sea-bass, March 1 to October 1. Smells, Apiil 1 to .Fuly 1. Lobsters, .July 1 to Decend>cr SI. Sturgeon, Au«:ust 81 to May 1. Oysters, .June 1 to September 15. The use of explosives or poisonous substances for killing fish is illegal. From the time of low water nearest six o'clock in the afternoon of every Saturday to th(! time of low water nearest six o'clock In the fore- noon of every Monday, no one shall fish for, catch, or kill saliium in tidal waters. In non-tidal waters frecjuented by salmon no one shall fish f(H', catch, or kill salmon or any other fish between nine o'clock in the even- ing of every Saturday and six o'clock on the following Monday morning. I III M Hi ■ li -\ A ^ THE NKT ItKSL'LT ^ L Siiliiiun 10 Kiver), I. Lar^c i»h('r 1 to to July 1. () May !. poisonous eruoon of I tlic foro- ' inoriiin^'. THE ROD t GUN AND COUNTRY HOUSE CHRONICLE. TWOPENCE WEEKLY. THE BEST PAPER FOR NEWS REGARDING THE SHOOTINfi RIVERS, LOCHS, _^^^^ MOORS, " FISHIN{}. "*AOA«-_-_,_, - DEER FORESTS OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. Articles by Eminent Writers of Sport. PUBLISHED EVERY SATURDAY MORNING. Post free from the Publisher^ direct for 10s. 6d. per Annum. OFFICES : 118 PALL MALLi LONDON, S.W., ENGLAND. DARLING'S REGENT HOTEL 20, WATERLOO PLACE, (PRINCES STREET.) J Nearly opposite General Post Office and in close proximity to Rail- way Stations. This first-class Temperance Hotel is largely patronized l)y American and Canadian Visitors and is under the personal management of Mrs. and Miss Darling. E. J. CHURCHILL (14 years with F. T. Baker) GUN, RIFLE AND GAt^Tf^lDGE IVIAl^UFflCTUlRr' 8, AGAR STREET, STRAN[ LONDON, W.w. Especial attention siven to the fitting of Gentlemen with (ins and Rifles fop Game and Pigeon Shooting. INSTRUCTIONS IN SHOOTING AT PRIVATE GROUNDS WITHIN HALF-HOUR FROM CHARING CROSS. SPECIALITY EJECTOR GUN CARTRIDGES FOR GAME AND MATCH SHOOTING. '» ty to Rail- ■ American Lgement of .L >1R W.C. with iins S WITHIN :S FOR GheLandof Evangeline Route THE WINDSOE & ANNAPOLIS RAILWAY (OF NOVA SCOTIA) in the f»rn>t-ii/S* inwiKinativi' p'liiiiH. I(ai;^au<> (lu-ckcd In all ixiintH, and nddiiHl llintwn in rasHcniicrt*' i'vch, v\vi\ in tliin Advert iwrnicnf. READ THIS: The Kniiway runs llii(»n;,'li ftie farfaiiied AnnapniiM Valley, the j^arden of the Maritime I'rovinees, and over LToiind wlicre the love Ira^'tdy (if EVANGELINE wan woven in Fate'x nhuttle. The lieaiiiicK of ^(■il^ can NEVER Ih' exrelled elsewhere, and tlic nreneH inaile ho real and faniiliar in the work of llie >rreat<'Ht American I'oet are here, every one. Thron-rli llie car-window h the enchanted traseler Het'8 the old WillowH, the Site of tlie Cliurch, ancir.aHil'H Jllackcniilh Shop. Kvan^jelinu SAW her people hnildini; the twenlv-lhreo n)ileH (»r Dike, to keen at hay the Inrhnient tiden, and when; "diHtaiit, secluded, still, (he little villaj^'e of Crano I'm' lay in the frnitful valley," whence far away to the eastward as far as eye can reach, stretch vast meadows pictured hy LONGFELLOW with ma<:ic |)en. Cross the (Jaspereaux l;iver. See the (pdet loveliness of tlu' Ilasin of Minus, and where Hlomidon croticlieM in lonely ^Mandeur, keeping WATCH and ward over the point of enil)arkation, from which the Acadian exiles saw with streaniinR eyes the last of their old honu's. In the distance lie the Five Islands, like precious stuneH "■"si't in the silver sea." Visit, Keiitville and j,'o to the I,ook-ements giving full inforumtion of many of the leading Hotels, as also Hankers and others. CANADA. CLIFTON HOrSK, Directly frontiiitr the Paik I!isci va- tioiiH. Sanitary coituitiou perfwt. The spray frr)ni the P'alls keeps the air always pure. This House, situated directly in front of tlie Fall, possesses superior ad- van t aires, (i. M. C'oi.BiUN, Proprittor. Niajiara Falls. '^I^HK i^lKENS, J Toronto. Canada. Celebrated for its home comforts, perfect quiet, jrood attend- ance, and the jjeculiar excellence of its cui- siiK . Delijrlithiily situated near the bay on Front Street, convenient to business center, railroad depot. steaml)oats. etc, MctiAW & WiNNETT. Proprietors. ''piIK HUSSKLI,. ,L The i\dace Hotel of Canada. This niauniHceiit new hotel is fitted up in the most modern style. Tlie Hu.>- supplied with escapes, and in case of tire there would not be any con- fusion or dauirer. J. X. St. JAcyuEs, Proj)rietor. rpHE WINDSOR 1 Is delitrhtfully situated on the finest s(iuare and in the centt'r of the city of Montreal. The Windsor is tlie head(iuar- lers for all first-class English and European travel. (iEoitfjE W. Swett, Manajrer. W. (J. Hoss. Assistant Manager. HOTEL HOBEUV.VL, At Koberval. An eleixant new hotel, accommodates StK) puests. This hotel has been built on a commanding site. afTordiu".' a mafinificent view of the whole expanse of Lake St. John. Mr. T. Kenna, la.e of the St. Lawrence Hall, Montreal, is the Manager. (Seeadvt.) -^pHE FLOHEN( E .L Is one of the most pleasant, attractive, and comfortable houses for tourists that can l)e found on this continent. Its location is iinequaled, and the panoramic view to he had from the Balcony is not even surpassed by the world-renowned Duflerin Terrace. The rooms are large, elegantly furnished and well ventilated, and tiie talde first class. Benj. Tui'OEL. Proprietor. NIA6AEA FALLS, N. Y. ri^IIE PROSPECT HorsE X Is under thi' same Owner and Man- agement as the original Prospect House, Canada side, establisned in 1874. This ho- tel is fitted with all modern improvements, conveniently and adudrably located on high, shady ground, and is a strictly ilrst- class iransient hotel, open all the year round. Rates. S;ir)(» to go. .■)<). D. Isaacs. Owner and Manager. TNTERNATIONAL HOTEL. 1 This spacious and elegant hotel, with ac- commodations for CIX) guests, is tfie nKirci. Proprietors. The leading hotel in HutTalo. The oidy absolnte'v tirc-iiroof liouse in the city : metropolitan in its structure. arranj:enients. equijunents. and manairement. American and European plans. Most central locaticm. NEW YORK CITY. FIFTH AVENTE IlOTKL. Madison Scpiare. The larsrest. best appointecL and most liberally manaiied hotel in the city, witli the most central and delightful location. IIlTClK situated on the Catskill .Mountains, eight miles west of the Hudson River and twelve miles from the village of Catskill, N. Y. It has accom- modations for 4()(t gue-^ts. and is the largest and leading hotel of the Catskill iCLdon. C.L. Beach. Proi)iieii Staiiou. June to October. I). S. Pn'.MEH. Proprietor. PHILADELPHIA, PA. COLONNADE HOTEL. Chestnut Strt'et. corner l.'ith, Phila- delphia. Most desirably locatet'. aiul adapted in all respects to the re(piiremeuts of the best class of the traveling public. European and American p'ans. II. .1. & (;. R. ciuMP. A\ WEST POINT, N. Y. "EST POINT HOTEL. The only hotel on the ])ost. Albekt H. Chaney. WHITE MOUNTAINS. >ROFILE HOUSE, Franconia Nt)tch. White Mountains. Taft ifc Greenleaf. Proin-ietois. iW lU'.ul- iricTor. I'lii'ii- ri'iui'iiis piihlic. GdeLandoFEYanqeline Route THE WINDSOR & ANNAPOLIS RAIL\7AY (OF NOVA SCOTIA) is the ft'(7*/-?V/l^// of the Tonrist'K lioad, thr host and most recent iIuproveIlH■llts-^tlrl rniln, air-brakes, new rolling-stock— niakniir tiavil a luxury, throujrh scenes over which L()N(i- FELLoW lavished tlie splendors of liis imaginative genius. Happage checked to all pointe, and no dust tlirown in Passengers" eyes, even in this Advertisement. READ THIS: The Kaiiway runs through the far-famed Annapolis Valley, the garden of the Maritime rrovinces, and o\tr ground whert- the love-tragedy of EVANGELINE was woven in Fate's shuttle. The beauties of i-eascajte and landscape can NEVER he excelled elsewhere, and the scenes made - > ital and familiar in the work of the greatest American I'nit are here, cmtv one. Thronirli the car-windows the enchanted traveler sees tile old Willows, the Site oi Uie Church, and I'.asii"s Llacksmilli Shop. Evangeline SAW her people buildinfr the twenty-three miles ( f Mkc to keep at I ay tlie turbment tides, and where "distant, secluded, still, the little \i.:n;'c of (Jiar.cl I'le lay in the fruitful valley," to keep at I (Jiar.d I'le whence far away to the eastward as far as t \e can rtach, stretch \ai?l meadows pictured by LONGFELLOW with niairic i)en. Crnsia the Gaspireaux l.ivi r. See the quiet loveliness of tlie Basin of Minas, and where ISIonudon crouclie- iu lonely graiideiw, keejjing WATCH and ward over the point of embarkation, from whicli the Acadian exiles saw with streaming eves tlie last of their old lioiics. In the di>tance lie the Five Islaiid;-. likf jirecidus stones "set in the silver s'-i." Visit Kentville and l'o to the l.ook-Otl' on tlu' North Mountain; stop at Wolfville anl Acadia College ; then to tlie (Jaspereaux Valley ; now on to Windsor, where all TOURISTS visit the home of in mortal " SAM SIJCE." known at his own fireside as Judge Haiiburton ; see Kiiiir's College, also the immense (.iypsiim (Quarries. ])on"t forget to keep an eye on tlie tides that RUSH up-hill in the beautifal Avon River. Have a glimpse of old Fort Edward ; revel in the glo- rious Mountain Scenery ; tliea on TO HALIFAX wliere a feast of delight is ])iv)vidv',l mr tin- 'loniist in the -great Fortification, the magnifi- cent Haroor. the beautiful (iacd'M-i. a. id the llnc'^t Natural I'ark in the world. Health-seekers wou"t tail to re'iie.niier that in traveling BY THE WINDSOR AND ANNAPOLIS RAILWAY they are in one of the lie-t climates on t.ie loot.-tool, where the air is ilie only medicine re- quired to keep you fresh as paint. FI?RST-CLASS HOTEL ACCOMMOOATnN IN EVERY TOWfJ AT REASONABLE RATES. SPLENDID STEAMSHIPS RUNNING IN CONNECTION TO AND FriOM BOSTON /-ND ST. JOHN, N. B, WHILE DAILY COENECTIONS ARE MADE PUTTING THE P/!^S^NGER IN TOUCH WiTH EVERY RAILWAY IN CANADA AND THE STATES. Buy a volume of Lcmgfellow. or look up the neaie-ft Tourist Agency ; or, better still, take a trip to Nova Scotia, if you want to kuinv more about tains, etors. ElieLandoF Evangeline Route » •■ m^ A SENSIBLE ROAD. The RAILWAY DINING-CARS, SLEEPING-CARS, Canadian Pacific COMPANY OPERATE THEIR OWN TELEGRAPHS, HOTELS, AND EVERVTHII.G THEY DO 19 DONE WELL. STEAMSHIPS. ETC., ETC., IF YOU ARE GOING TO ' Canada, The Eastern Provinces, The Upper Lakes, The Western Prairies, Over the Rockies, To the Pacific Coast, To Japan and China, or Around the World, VOU CAN DO 80 WITH MORE COMFORT AND SATISFACTION BY TRAVELING VIA THIS GREAT RAILWAY. /ts Rates are the Lowest and its Equipment the Best. PUB' ICATIONS : Around the World. Alaska. NeAv Highway to the Orient. iVestw^ard to the Far East. Banff and the Lakes in the Clouds. Summer Tours, etc. SEND FOR A COPY TO B. J. Skinner - - 2'^3 Broadway, New York C. E. McPherson5 i97Washington St, Boston, and St John, N. B. W. F. Egg - - 266 St. James Street, Montreal. W. Q. C.^LLAWAV - 1 King Street, E. Toronto. C. Sheehy - - - - II Fort Street, iJetroit. J. F. Lke - R. Kerr - - D. E. Brown • M. M. Stern- 232 So. Clark Street, Chicaco. - - . - - . . Winnipeg. Vancouver, B. C. 648 Market Street, San Francisco. A. Baker, 67 King William St., London, Eng. OR TO D. McNICOLL, General Passenger Agent, MONTREAL. OMPANY EAMSHIFS. ETC., ETC., Prairies, id China, *G VIA ^t the Best. East, n the Clouds. k Street, Chicaco. - - - Winnipeg. Vancouver, B. C. S48 Market Street, San Francisco. St., London, Eng. Agent, SO i» u tf. *» t» i» n *» ^ fit* M MUM TO TM mCH. •TTA.WA, Oi«iMA of th* SoslidoB of OmMa, iMz:yM Bt.Ua )V mHi wy Srftv '^^.f: «» i8*n4j Creek ^agorille ^p£ fOMt] 1-0 iHome / I KorChvtUe < Jtica' XHerWme' M° 7^°^ -Id BnMton i«(a Day to tin 5mS~ Hail^l ■^forniit Jt» *^ ^ North weelt»rtx "Part of 'JNOrtnweaicvrzx fare ^ ONTARIO. tc^t* or ttAma liiua- 'nl ,IUMiU< «" ^Vi»<&. I ^rii^>^« r«*|ii(i» Ck« CmfUtt BttgnMil^V fUHMtf tmr*t, IhOMttrntiNnTYoiHt i*'-i- ^ii. U^JUmifhult I Hnt u' /^ 'iteSivnSSfWl f^iMSr t J«/ W from f WathingtanVk'' 'mytrt ' '■ -.''i-*. I