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BrCHAKKST, Ror.MAMV, .\iii;ust i^tli, 1S97. Our fxjxjrietice ut IIk- weather thus far has fully justified the experiment of inakiuK the Mediterranean trip durinjj midsiniuner. In spiti' of the doleful warnings of those who had been there (in the win- ter nineteen of us left Rome (m the morning; of July 2.vl and had a Lost delightful and (wl journey of sixteen hours across country to ^rindisi, taking the Austrian Lloyds steamer llabsburg thence about [ini(lnij;iit. The Chicagoans of the i>arty were Dr. Nicholas Senn. Dr. I). K. Hrovver, Dr. and Mrs. Casey Wood, Miss Isabel Mclsaac, Mr. Daniel Hrower. Mr. William Senti, Dr. Iv vS. Talbot, Miss Talbot Riid Dr. Lucy Waite. The southeastern part of Italy is not as well known to the tourist IS it ouKht to be; chielly because he is likely to ima<;ine, after an aniuamtance wiih the centra! and northern portions only, that a pros- perous Italian agricultural community does not exist. After the rail- pv crosses the Apiienines north of Naples, it enters and runs [hrouKdi a plain about u o miles long by 10 miles wide that might well be called " a land llowing with milk and honey. "" On the table lands L grown wheat, corn and ..its in abundance, while on the lower [evels almost every acre is i.lanted with olives, figs, dates and grapes. Sidctnicked along the railroad we s,iw numerous tanks— ([uite sinular |o lho.se used by the Standard Oil Com])anv for the carriage of wine. Hie houses even of the peasantry are more imposing, cleaner and bet- tx kept than those found in other parts of the country, while the luii- [ersal employment of whitewash for fences, barns, grareries and actories is very agreeable to the eye these buildings being sur funded bv the varied tints of green orchard and field. There is also iiK.llHT reason whv this part of Italy is a particularly pleasant one to [ravel through - the peopU- appear to be well fed and comfortably clad. ^id Iher.- is'almo.st an entile absence of that bc-^^arx \s\\\<:\\ in other baits of Italy annoys and distresses the visitor. Moreover, the dried- |p and barren looking soil which one commonly encounters in south- rn >ountries during August is altogether lacking in this beautitul lail oi the world. We would otTer a word in favor of the raihoad froii Hrindisi and of advice to thos-e who may think of takin? tl in summer. The roadbed is made of crushed lava and c and is absolutely devoid of dust. We encountered a ( almost all the way to Caserta, and when we began at th cross the mountaitis a heavy rain storm still further cool Of course the subseciuent journey across the mountains then along the shores of the Adriatic were, for obvious rea.son pleasant. Do not make any special preparations for tli except that of laying in a stock of sweetened lemon juice I-Vesh. cooled water is sold at most tailway stations, an^ cents a grateful drink may be had almost everywhere. S ney, even in second class carriages, can be made with few niences than would be enccmntered in traveling in a PuUt same time of year, from Chicago to ButTalo. A .second agreeable disappointment was reserved fo character of the boats that ply between the south Italian y disi and Tatras i.oneof the seaports for Alliens; The best ot Austrian Lloyds', and we were assured that our vessel, th was an average specimen. It was everything that could with large, roomy cabins containing two or more beds— i in each. The ventilation of the.se was unusually gooil, portholes were open alnust all the lime we could nr iMually, the meals on board were excellent. Before i island of Corfu we came upon the first evidence of the wai sailed somewhat out of its regular course to pick up wretched peasants and artisans from the Turkish seapo the capital of l-pirns. The Turks established a mililarv and had immense stores of flour for the use of the army . the northwest borders of Greece. The Greek tleet maj. ivas everything that could be ilesired iiing two or niore beds— not bnlh- ie.se was unusually good, and a> ;l;e ill the time we could not complain f| were excellent. Hefore reachins the he first evidence of the war. Tiieboal u'gular course to pick up soinc titty s from tlK- Turkish seaport of J anina. j urks established a military depot here ir tor the use of the army operatiii;,' or. •e. The Greek tleel made short work good opportunity of seeing wh at havcc 1 small town. We saw warehouses is me of them were merely pierttd here] lially burned while others were .simply ding had two walls and the rooi inposi-| and stairca.ses still in place. In con- anies of Turkish soldiers occnpial ontj which the red crescent wai veil, and in| coursed what probably passes :n Kpirusj li^htful at all seasons of the vcur, ad| ■hy the Kmpress of Austria chosctaej jsl.iiiil f)r tlie miguificent p.ilace she built there a few years ago at tu I'll enormous expense. We saw evidences, even during our short stay, of the misdirected philanthrophy that induced Mr. Gladstone to piesent this and the other members of the Ionian group of islands to the newly formed Cireek monarchy. 'IMiis action on the part of the British Government was (|uite in accord with the wishes of the British people and was done at the request of the iidiabitants themselves, but |t is only another illustration of the truth that a strong and well lirected foreign rule is preferable, so far as material results are con- teriied, to home government of the indifferent sort that the Greeks have exhibited. With characteristic energy the Hritish built roads, e.stab- |islied schools, encouraged agriculture and manufacturers of all kinds mil generally stimulated the indolent Greek to enterprises of various cinds. Incidentially, of course, they regulated his taxes and saw to It tiiat he l)ought as many British goods as possible. Hut no oriental likes to be incited to action that includes a regular i)rogram of con- linued work- even if it be in his own interest- and one may very I'ell (lue.stion whether the lonians do no still ])refer their decaying liidnstries and crumbling country to the sj)ick-and span prosperity of 5ritish rule. .\t Patras we first encountertd the luscious, little, purple grape finch, when dried, constitutes the "currant" of commerce. We saw ^undreils of acres of this delicious frtiit and made many enquiries roin our genial consul in Patras, Mr. Jentungs, and others regarding The merchants are awaiting, with nuich anxiety, the outcome of lie tariff discussion, since a protective duty on currants means much, lot only to them but to all Greece. T le cultivation and preparation If tile eurrant-grape for the market furnish a livelihood to a large ircentage of the population both of the island and mainland about |atras, and the exclusion of the millions of pounds of dried currants nuially consumed by us would be a serious blow to them. \'ery little is said about the comfort and still less about the pic- Jres(|ue beauty of the railway journey from Patras to Athens. After !)nsiderable entjuiry we concluded that the canal acro.ss the isthmus of [crinth is not as well patronized as one would have expected. I'rora [ephallonia, opposite the entrance to the Gulf of Corinth, to the uiietiiate Athenian .seajiort of Piraeus is ;,66 miles round the Pelo- bnesus, while the direct route through the gulf and canal is only M miles, and yet neither our vessel nor those of the Italian or K'lU'h lines took advantage of the shorter route. We understood lal the intricacies of the latter journey as well as the tolls imposed 3 wm tmm :.* Upon vlsmIs ii.i.s.siiij4 thr()ii>;lj ili til «-• «aiii III nuIcaKf. Wliatcvt-r ha ii V ciii.il more til 111 rum s comiiKMcial status nu more impoMi,^; view than that Kaii.od l,v the travelet the canal l.y a I.ri.l^e iiearlv -.v^ feet above the water W-h him lies the w.iterway. t,[: miles 1 nit throuuli solid rock, and the bird iniiT. loo feet widt or striking. Th s eye view so oht; e iM iial iseiitirely without locks, as the 1 e .uiilf. Th HI) e \' ill the Aexeaii sea is the same as tint of th Ki"'< the canal was really heKun by Nero aiKThas, at int a tew years a)^( ured by centuries, proceede i until fiiiislied The rail wav th passes for iniIe-< a Ion en skirts the northern shore of the S, iroi stran.ije that s) little is pllbli^hell K rooky t-iittin-s that closely abut on t sea and nionntain obtained aloiii; thi- tl rej^ardinj; the 1111^^11 ifu far le Riviera of ( urpass their Italian counterparts iK.t only because of and extent of iiiont lain, | lin and sea iiichided in ihe p because the Greek line runs many liuiidreils of feet hinh French railway or th places the roadbed i whose bases arc washed bv the watc e carriage road from Cannes to C.eiio; s cartied (juite to the edj^e of jJcrpciK rs of the Aegean se: We found Athens in a state of " sulk; Th e liillitai commonly plays in the Place de la Constiimion had cea eveninjj concerts, and there was an vadiuK evervthini-. Tl se le curious air of depressed expi American naturallv /ntdtas rrs as sin>;i as he enter interesting;, and we intervieweil s a Country ih it i- politically who coti'd or would speak Italian evirybody on the subject not alwavs with the >ai ab )ut it in ImciicIi, luiyjlish, tile warlike sentiment h id lie results. .U fir as couli •en universal and sincere, but rations f (r the s'riiKM.;ie were wolul met a number ol Red Cross 1 I\' inidecpt itt moil'. iiirses on their wa\ to IvuLilaii lile extoliiiiK' I'le btavcrv of the C ot the service reeks, admitted that Turk^ were tiemorali/ed aher the first eiij^aj^eiiiei »1 tr.iiisportatioii faiilities there were none, a id t sariat depailnieiit ixisted ii 1 name onI\ Witl 1 a Ddorlv on laud, partially supplied and iir.perkctly disciplined, \ •.vno l^ll se operations were confined by the Powers to Turk cent to Creek territory, it is small wonder that so little iiiiii made upon a numerically superior foice of the eiiemv ; modern ntles and diili.-d and led lar^elv l)s (iermaii, K luiKlish ollicer>, It ?eni> a pity tli.it the (iieeks did not Ihf CiUl.ll IllDrc th Ml cullipc'llsi!,, ; I l»i; its (.omiiK'trial .status tlun , „! . latKaiiied \>y the- traveler as lu , ,„-. fec-t al)ovc llic water Ivlow. I;, m Ifs loiiK. loo feet wide, oiie-llliid ,,; le bird's eye view so oNtaiiied is u Without locks, as the height of « r s that of the Kitlf. The work ..i :, II liy Nero and has, at interv.d- uw ■ itil finished a tew years aj;o northern shore ol theSaronic Giih .r tin,i;s that closely abut on the sea. I; ul rei^ardiug the ni iKnifieent vi^us. n^ thi- the Riviera of Creeo.'. Ti: •rparts not only because of the va:: ■ and sea include . 1 counti\- ihit i-- politic, illv orsdc;,:. everyliody on the subject of tliv \\x )nt it in French, Ivnglish, C.cniia;! ^ ne results. As t'jr as could be k.iiv.v. universal and sincere, but thv p:ua fully in.ide(ju.ite. .\u\ m- ol.ii^is ■.« es on their \v.i\ to I{ii,i;land. aii'i \h\ le Oreeks, admitted that all i.r;uiclit> atier the first eni;a;4eiiKii[ with tlu ties there were none, a ul the inuniav- iiK- onI\. With a poorly amif 1 lorce iir,i)erlcclly (li^cipllne(f with a tkft !)S' the Powers to Turkish ]hirt.-, iidja- 1! wonder that so little impiC'-i'Mi \\-.\< Mr toice of the enem\- ainn'l w.'.h led lar.nely by ()erman, Rii---iaii and y th.it the (ireeksdid not w '..i ihcir . .'tunity (as the Huluarian^ have d« iiej !iiid ac(iui)e territory es it I, away from llie slowly crumbling; empire of the Turk One can- lielp feeliiiK •> s<'fl <•' P'^V ''"■ ^''*^' ""»•*■■'" drtek. lie t xhiltils, in native country at least, many (lualities that are admirable. We verv few l)eKKi>f^ in Cireece. and there is certainly less of the . .tionable ilirt and national abasement that one meets with in There is an air of dignity, self respect, and independence . i .1 e'lrrespondini,' al)sonce of tren/ied Kesticulatnm) about the ..pie that IS refreshiiiK after a visit to Italy. On the other hand ,r;- A//>r nu't hods seem to prevail everywhere. Iminovidence is !i ni'.re marked than it is in Italy. We visited seveial Atherian schools, one in particular founded llu- gueeii ard c'.evotid to leaching girls various skilUd (a'CU- i,.n- Tiiev made very arti.stic embroidery, rugs, silks, lace, etc., ; iiave more orders on haiul than lluy can fill. .Some of us attended for the first time a C.reek funeral, and. iiouuh we subsciiucntly saw seveial others, we couhl not become niuiled to the idea ol haviiiK the corpse txposed in its burial ,'hes as it wasborne alon^ the public streets -the coflin lid beiii^^ rried in advance by some ot the profession.il mourners. The cere- nr.ialin the church was very impressive with the choir and half a .11 priests, j;<>tKt-""sly robed, inloniiii; tlie service. Ill .\thens we first encountered the striiiKS <>f wooden beads car- ,1 ; hielly l)y the men of all clas.ses. These are not rosaries and have ;liui- to do with. reli>;ious observances, but simply furnish mechanical npi'lion for the hands while .sittiuK' in a cafe, t.alkiuK, ridin- in the ■,, t cais, etc. Instead of working off surplnss eiurgy by twisting umst.iche, rocking in a chair or chewing u ilchchain, pulling at the n Mini, as we do, the ni;ile C.reek pul ait his string of beads ami play: k\\\\\ them! One of lis has l) nail •ver been a."- lor .\^ we embarked for Smyrna on /. I Syrnr o f the .Urssai:t-rirs '■.nitinifs, we passed the anchorage >f the lleet maintained in the leus bv the Powers- five ugly looking monsters who amuse them- f . "m^^m'i' .selves at tiinlit by playiiiK tluir search lights ovtr tlie cilv, I away, as a Rcntlf reiiiiiidfr to tliv popiilace that where tl imu'h lijiht there is also a lH)Uiitiliil supply of fitf. AItlu)UKl» tlie Messaneries sti-ainers jilyiii;; in tlie I.evai the Hosphoius are the older ships of the aMiipany iiid are to those of the Attstriau Mt)yds i whose vessels we would the best means of reaching Constantinople), the perfect wi encountered assisted us greatly in resisting the fatigues of ney. We broke ihc journey at vSniyrna and were delight* our tlaj; living from the luifutofl in the harbor. Allhou^li i little representative of the white squadron did tiot force the i the Dardanelles durini; the Anneiiian iinpleasantness her otVi been abk- to improve their mit ds and learn much about ^^raphy of I'',Ry'>t, Syria and Asia Minor while ofT on leav».-( in tluse inteiestinj; parts. Our war vessel left Smyrna about time we did for one of the islands of the dreek archipdani interchanj;e of pleasant visits. Smyrna is propabjy the l)ustlin)» city in the whole Ottoman Ivnpire It has abou inhabitants and bears all tlu' outward appearances of a prosp well-to do town. As far as we could learn this prosp decidedly nouTurkish. Those of us who mailed letters h variety of i)ost offices to chose from, as every European iiat size maintains a service of its own This is the rule in all Tiirkish towns, and, by a str.in^;e anomaly while the internal ta^e elsewhere is the ecpiivahiil of live Cents, one sends a kite ica or Creat Britain for lour cents. We visited the native pos found a very courteous official who spoke I'rench and ^'ave information we re(iuired, except that he could not explain l)arative cheapness of international p('si,ij;e. b'ven in Si uncalled for letters are exposed in a j;!ass case at the front d post olVice so thai he who runs may read his name on them' Another warning, that led to certain of our \r.\x\.\ buy lated hats for use in Constantinople, was (piite uncalled for. the Turkish ca ital is the most delightful summer resort could wish for. A cool, refreshing bree/e bl«)ws all day 1 the Hlack Sea. and the niyhts are olten cold in summei. every two or three days, atid the c ity i^ full of trees. Ther as mncli need for a cork hehnet here in August as there wo one in Mackinaw or Atlantic City. Owii K to this alarm .ibotit the heat of the suminer .sea.si recent war, we are almo-^t the only Aiiiericiii tourists in tin we have made it, iiicludiiiK the lioteN and tli ir attend.uit ^^,1 ;arcli liK'lits ovii the citv, fivi m'm V pojmlarf that where then is m, il .siii>i)Iv of /ire. amers plyiii;,' in the Levant iind on >s of the company .iiul are noi ii|u;il whose vessels we \>ould advise .^ taiitinople), the perfect weal lier we II resistiiiy; the fatigues of tlie jour Sinynia and were delijjhted to fiml in the liarhor. Although this smart l|^ xpiadrof. did not force the pass.ij^eoi tuan iinpleasantness heroflkeis have Is and learn much about the j^eo- Minor while off on leave-olal)sciii.c ar vessel left Smyrna about the sanH- s of the (ireek arcliipelaj;o a Iit an Sniyrna is proj)al>jy the only iivf an Mmpire It has about 300,00.1 rard ai)i)earaiices of a iirosperons and e could learn this prosperity wa- if us who mailed letters here had 'in, as every I<)uropean nation oi .iii\ 1 This is the rule in all the lar^e inomaly while the international ]w<- five cents, one >ends a letter to AiiKi- . We visited the native po.stofTict.' aiu! o spoke I'rench and j;ave us .ill iIk that he could not explain tlu rom iial post.ijie, h'veii in Smyrna the a n'as.s case at the front door oi the ly read his name on them! ) certain ot our ji.irty bu\ iiii; veii;: lie, was (piile uncalled for. Inii-ci! ilelii;htful suininer resort that nn- ii>; bree/e bl(»ws all day loiiK ii"'"''' • often cold in summei. Ram Mil- city is full of trees. There is ihoiit eie in August as there wouM I'c !i'; / . le heat of the summer season aii'l tlu ly American tourists in the city aiul otels and th ir attendant satflliti- Ulniirown. We have the pick of the foreign accommodation of all «itls and are eujoyiuK ourselves imnien.sely. Somebody has dis- kovered tint the butter is made from sheep's milk, but even that does |(il disturb us. It is no sn.'dl matter for us Americans that we have come at the beKuminK of the fruit .season, and it has helped greatly when eon- iiited by the olive oil mes.ses in which the oriental delights Fresh Igs. pears, nectarines, all sorts of grapes, melons, tomatoes, plums, keulies, etc., aie here in abundance. On the street maize is sold, lot, U)asted and boiled, but it is, we have discovered, our jniiimnii field variety, and we have looked in vain for the sweet corn our native land. The city has greatly improved since the days of I.uk Tv.ain"s "Innocents Abroad " (the importation of which into ["lukey is expressly rori)idden), but most of the .scenes descended in lat inimitable guide book are still true to life. We have run acro.ss nmiil)er of intere^ting things, however, that he does not speak of. fhc fire departmt nt, for instance, exhibits some of those niy.steries ):ivcr impenetrable to the Anglo-Saxon, that one constantly enconn- ki' 1! in this eastern country There are in the city halt a dozen sta- ll* n- each manned by some twenty or thirty men and provided with a wii ill liand engine of the pattern of 1852 and two or three vehicles fill! with ladtlers from eight to twelve feet long. As the streets are gtii' rally mere passages or lanes too narrow for horses, the eng lies are dr.i;Ked or carried by the firemen Several high towers have been bui t ill various (piarlers of the city, and from these watchmen look Oil! 1 I ((iiitlagrations. As .soon as a fire is discovered the heal bri- gade Mx the fea nnd hands h-.foro praycMS l,as IkhI nu.rh to .1.. w>lh ;;:;nK.nt .. Uu- r.unK.rons fountains one SC.S not only ,n . with the n,oM,nesluU about the city genera v. ^ Our tv.tv has taken nu.ny tm.s up the Hosphorus . ...V we u ere ahle to see son^ethin, of the ^orlifioatu.nsior he th.t sMaU an.l the Daraanelle. We are nnpresse. u Uh tl ;jea.ly.eU.naeac.v>oth;.ysea.unnan.th..^ 11 , ,...rv well eKist NOhodv. howevei, can te i 1 . th-.t ihev have ^.^owu ru^t> and k^'I^ " IWal.lv ,1 .IH T..Tk« Ciena,, war ha,l Iku, l.mKli. „„, ,.,Us ,„»U. l.v .„...s fin., a. .... .h.r,y .> f • A, .,in..: .he l,„il.l,„s ,ni,.r ... .1.. ...assacr. o. a,. .. U..,in.wUl,,..o...Mln,,KS .ha.,. ■..■."-'. ;;;:v:;;;,;;;'o.r:::u:::;;;='.:::::;.:^.:a.,u """ -^r h k Unuofsix th..us:u,a of their hun, ""' ''""; :\ e.u ;-uter. of Stan,lu,ul and l>era tnots ni the Ainu aian i ,„ iss ,.re an.l are lore .,OUO,, ...... a,,vcv.w,...»s-^^^^ eneniu> who are i.itanu\ uUelleetually. ^ , ^ .\lhen. an.l Co Tiie nnhtarv ho^pnal> M an.l a. ^;:^:;,.j:;:.: ..........-:':: ■-:;::,:;::,;■:-. lashHKU.i Creek title ^^^^^ .^ .„, Ou. new ambassador, l>r. An.^cll, lias had imirh to d" with '!i't^' ains one sees not only in idi.iKcli.in ■itv ge'icrally. nips lip the Hosphorns, and on on: ^ of tlie forlifK-atioiis tor the d. IciiaM,! \Vr are itupiesscd witli the Uct liial Wy sea and hind, than Conslaiiliiiop'.t ,hodv, however, can he tuuiul wb iikisli lleet. The several vrsscls that uietK lor ;-o many years at llu-ir vari- . grown ru^ty and ^ray troin d mk. ■ of the pontoon bridges that M'-''> "■■^- jj rdtorn awav from its moniings and ^ ,l,,,i„s. The gnid..- expl.iined lliat -m leavorini; to pa.s throngh du pr^:.: ahleandoiashod into the bnd-- i'.^ • war had been lougbl at sea the n/^> ank and were shown the bullet ImV 1 at the thirty or forty Arnuinans vvl massacre of la>t year It i-^ 'i'lr^ hat one stndie. in vain luic to len. ,.ud rcsnll of that mad eseaiKulc w: ,.., through the ace dentalexploMoii ,a smuggled into the bank. Alter Uk the revolutionists' passage to Marseille. ix thousand of their hnmbhr onn'-- .r< of Stamluad ami I'era W - 1;'''* „■ the massacre and are torcedl..l.vn^c vnlavcd into th.-- hands ol tlu-.v an .: • , „nuh lor them both phys.cally .::■ ,^„,, ,^|,ont Atheu, andConstarUn.;p:. .,rs on both sde. prove cond«^>^c. Turk^lhan Ore ks were kUUd n U te.l bv the larger, heavier '"'la-'-j. „H,re'>erion, than those mad. .«^ - .H o, the Tnrki.h nfle. On t!:e ■•.- idv, has a greater an.l more aou..^ ,..1 superior Xv7//».C powers than U.- )r. An:4ell,has not >et arrive. ml t:;« [pe^ieiary of Legation, Mr. J. \V. Riddle, has been kindness itself. He Bias among other things, obtained permission for us to attend the \si-/>iii!fik ox Sultan's proce.ssion to the Mosque .so that we may see Ins Majestv face to face as he i)r. ceeds to prayers. 'I'his takes place every Friday afternoon, and is equivalent to a jiesentation at court. C.nests are introduced into the palace rooms iverlooking the mosque entrance by their Ambassador or Consul and iro expected to appear in reception drc'-s. The use of opera glasses, :odacks or a sketch book is strictly forbidden, h'or hours before the :eremony begins ever> approach to the palace or its mos*-*i^»^" -■ "'■^^S^^Smm^mmm'^^'^''^ ■ t 1 The public letttr writer, in a country whose pub instruction is confined to occasional lessons given in the mo man of considerable importance and often conducts hisbnsii open air convenient to his clientele. We saw one (piarter < where four of these persons were actively engaged in the their honorable calling. Not only is the Ottoman silver coinage a debased one tio:i of it consists of copper coins silver plated. Still, so sc paratively, are coins of a the small denominations that the premium, as compared with money of a larger value, and t the fumy state of aflairs that confronts the visiator— he if his full change, if making a purchise, unless it happens t of large dimensions' Not on'y must the traveler have his passport vis, Turkey, Rouniania and Russia, Init he must, after crossing have it vised to leave these countries. Tlie authoritie: intend not only that no objectional party shall enter th precincts but that nobody shall leave without their consent to the independent American who imagines that li without these formalities will be lightly dealt with. \\ several such wlio were made to feel the strong arm of oppressor. A break in a tunnel on the direct route to Belgrf „s to travel to lUida-Pesth via the Black Sea ami Hucharcs on all sides of the great strides made in late years by the 1 since they .'^eveied their connection with the Turkish Ivn-,] were glad to visit their prosi)erous and well kept city capi same time we left Constantinople with regret, because oriental dirt; its-' yallow' dogs and its mediaeval nieth far the most pictures. piely situatenstantine the Great is as much i„ a dozen wavs than the Neapolitan capital as the Nn is grander than tlie ravines about our suburb ot Olencoe. ti a country whose public scliod, lal lessons given in the mos(HKs, is , itul often conducts his business- in ',!: rlf. We saw one ([uarter of tin- r ■■ e actively engaged in the puriuii Iver coinage a debased one Iml a por silver plated. Still, so scarce, com- nail denominations that they arc at a ley of a larger value, and thus result* onfronts the visiator— he is not giver, ■chise, unless it happens to l)c a com er have his passport vised to tnttr but he must, after crossing the Imnler •ountries. The authorities eviduiitly ional party shall enter the hallowed leave without their consent. Woe k 1 who imagines that his passport be lightly dealt with. We htard of to feel the .strong arm of the foreign | the direct route to Belgrade ohlis;ed he Black Sea and Bucharest. We hear made in late years by the Roumanians tion with the Turkish Ivn-pire, ami 've ous and well kept city capital. W the t)l)le with regret, because despite it> sand its mediaeval methods it is'v ate.l and most imposing city ativ ot u> its seven hills, or from any poriiou o; )eautiful beyond description but they Naples presents a magniticenl water :ine the Great is as nuich more lovely ipclitan capital as the Nali.mal Park )ul our sulnirb of Cilencoe. 10 !?