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Nothing like a fear is expressed, of obstacles to be met with and surmounted. On the contrary, all is plain sailing through "a free and practicable passage for seven or eight months in e\ery year." The language of the foregoing extracts is calculated to raise, not only the hopes, but the expectations of the public, as high as those whi^h the writer himself no doubt in- dulged in, as to the success of any future attempt ; pro- vided it should be made where he recommends, near the north-east pai been aware ting hold of < little further our adventui son's Strait, then stand in| tend with ici winds and c< " would be c 71° or 72°, a they saw the go far to cc Hudson's Bi negative,'' £ records hisc route throug north-east ps he wrote, th: son's Bay, (a or Repulse E says, that if should (by wards) lead ITiat " woul yet in the sa seem to dov informs us, he (Middle indeed very of this anoi " popular c the question this Numbc ,1 north-east part of America. He seems, however, to liavc been aware of there being some little difficulty in get- ting hold of that part of America, for he informs us a little further on, at page 169, that, " Hitherto, most of our adventurers have worked their way through Hud- son's Strait, which is generally choked up with ice, then standing to the northward^ they have had to con- tend with ice drifting to the southward, with contrary winds and currents. These inconveniences," he adds, " would be obviated by standing/r«/ to the latitudes of 71° or 72% and from thence southerly and westerly, till they saw the north-east coast of America, which would go far to complete the discovery, or, till they reached Hudson's Bay, which would decide the question in the negative,'' Here, in the most direct terms, this reviewer records his disapprobation (and with good reason) of a route through Hudson's Strait and Bay, inquest of the north-east part of America ; nay his belief at the time be wrote, that no passage could be found out of Hud- son's Bay, (and consequently even through the Welcome or Repulse Bay) into the Polar sea. Inasmuch as be says, that if the more northerly route be recommends, should (by a southerly and westerly deviation after- wards) lead any future adventurer into Hudson's Bay, That " would decide the question in the negative." And yet in the same article, at page 162, this reviewer would seem to doubt the veracity of Middleton ; " who," be informs us, " looked into (he says, sailed round,) what he (Middleton) was pleased to call Repulse Bay" It is indeed very amusing to compare some of the notions of this anonymous writer, in different numbers of this " popular critical journal," on points connected with the question of a north-west passage. For instance, in this Number 31, at page 170 ; he says—" It is a com- ■i % •i.'t - • r k ■ ■ • 5 ' a'^ 1 ^iW p i ^?^ - -B a - ii «^< mon, but we believe an erroneous opinion, that tlic tem- perature of our climate has regularly been diminisliing, and that it is owing to the ice having permanently fixed itself to the shores of Greenland, Mrhich in consequence, from being once a flourishing colony of Denmark, is now become uninhabitable and unapproachable. We doubt both the fact and the inference. It is not the cli' mate that hat altered, but ive who feel it more severe as we advance in years ; the registers of the absolute de- gree of temperature, as measured by the thermometer, do not warrant any such conclusion ; and .more attempts than one to land on the coast of Greenland must be made, before we can give credit to its being bound up in eternal ice — which is known to shift about with every gale of wind, to be drifted by currents, and to crumble and consume below the surface of the water,** Now, this is all very probable, and perhaps would not have been questioned by any body, but the reviewer himself. He, however, having a favourite hypothesis to maintain, which he see'ns to have founded on imaginary assumptions^ at variance.with each other, rather than on known facts and experience, tells us quite a dif- ferent thing in No. 35, of the Quarterly Review, in an article written preparatory to the fitting out of the two expeditions in the beginning of the following year 1818 ; as it was very necessary to clear away (at least by pen and ink) as much as possible of the ice, which some igno- rant folks might suppose would otherwise impede their progress through the Polar regions, towards Behring's Strait ; he therefore admits, in the first place, " that, for the last four hundred years, an extensive portion of the eastern coast of Old Greenland has been shut up, by an impenetrable barrier of ice, and with it the ill-fated Nor- wegian or Danish colonies ; and who were thus cut off at once from try ;"— that to time, to < every whei length aba land, whici of bst Grec is the disap barrier of doubt t as or ever were i inexplicable^ first approa since." In extraordins so opportui of many pe assigns as departure o own weighl doubt, the asks, whetl of an evei at least tc hundred y( the remova own climat 2ndly. the fate of Old Green 3rdly. 1 defective gi hemisphere ofOldGre -■• T- 7t. ( once from all communication with the mother-coun- try ;"— that •* various attempts have been made, from time to time, to approach thiH coast, but in vain; the ice being every where impervious ; and that all hopr. being at length abandoned, that part of this extensive tract of land, which faces the east, took the appropriate name of lost Greenland. The event to which we have alluded is the disappearance of the whole, or greater part of this barrier of ice. How the Danes can now pretend to doubt, as one of their writers affects to do, whether there ever were a colony on the eastern side is, to tis, quite inexplicable, unless it^beto palliate theirnegligence at the first approach of the ice, and their want of humanity since." In short, the reviewer has, now, no doubt of this extraordinary fact, for nothing could have happened so opportunely ; and he therefore adduces the authority of many persons in various places to prove it, and even assigns as " the most probable cause, for the sudden departure of all this ice, its having broken loose by its own weight ! !" Having thus " established beyond any doubt, the fact of the disappearance of the ice," he , asks, whether any, and what advantages may arise out of an event which, for the first time has occurred, at least to so great an extent, during the last four hundred years ? and answers, first. The influence which the removal of so large a body of ice may have on our own climate. >.,iUv* ,>-..,. ^i 2ndly. The opportunity it aff()rds of enquiring intrt the fate of the /o/ig-to*^ colony on the eastern coast of Old Greenland. 3rdly. The facility it offers, of correcting the very defective geography ofthe Arctic regions in our western hemisphere, and of attempting the circumnavigation of Old Greenland, a direct passage over the Pole, and the more circuitous one along tho northern coast of America into tlie Pacific. He then takes pains to prove deterioration of climate to have taken place in Iceland, Switzerland and Pennsylvania, and that " it roust he equally clear therefore, that our own climate, though in a less degree, must have been affected by this vast accumu- lation of Ice on the coast of Greenland :" and gives *' reasons for believing, that previously to t!i3 fifteenth century England enjoyed a warmer iwumc'^ climate than since that period I T The reviewer having, as we have seen in a former number, expressed his belief of the pr structed by land, move at and near the surface, in a si- milar direction, nearly and generally, to that of the wind.-~When obstructed by lands, they take the vari- ous turnings and windings, which the forms and tren- dings of those lands, and other local causes, impose '^«f*flf it be allowed, ' that the influence of the sun, in rarefying the atmosphere to the greatest d^ree, between the tropics, together with the earth's rotation on its axis from west to east, would produce (if no land intervene ed) a constant wind from east to west,' may we not . suppose, if the same causes operate similarly, bqt proportionally t on the waters, of the ocean, that they. must produce a sinular e0ect, and oblige them to take 9 like direction — that is, from east to west, at arid near the surface all round the globe, wMiin the limits of4he sun's declination ? — If this general effect, then, be admitted, on the ground it rests^ we may piesume, that , if there were a passage through the Isthmus of DaHen; for the immense body of water, which continually flows irotti east to west into the CaiiUbean Sea arid Gulf of Mexico, what is called the gulf-stream would nu longer exist And as it seems probable, that the sur^ fittoe of the water must be somewhat higher ' on tlie eastern side of America thereabouts^ than on tbe other, Q«f ing to the land'» obstruction to the natural dourse of tbe great equinoctial current, and the nece«sity imposed . ' Frosithcobaervationsmadcby Humboldt at the noutbof.tbe Rio > Seca in the Atkatic, and on tbe coast of tlie South Sea, it appears ** there is a difference of level between the two Mas, not exceeding 6 or 7 metre*, or about 19 or SS feet." on it, to fi Atlantic ; accumulat the Contii surface of be lower under wat would, h( West Indi passage m current, tc be a lee coast of F bly be felt cturrent of than it no warmer gi which this constant i its propelli that it may landt befoi fluid benei ^n region est rareiac supply the evaporatii upper stra Tbegulf.(i wards the affisct a sfa is possible nortAwarc perature. ■ r ; ^ »-? >. r »; -; ■*^*--t;:..,^ ^f on it, to Bnd vent through the Gulf of Florida, into the Atlantic ; it is not unreasonable to conclude, that if this accumulation of water was at liberty to flow through the Continent of America, into the Pacific Ocean, the surface of the sea, on this side (next the Atlantic) would be lower than it now is; so that parts of land, no# under water, would be exposed to view. This effect would, however, be injurious to commerce with the West Indies ; for it would render the homeward-bound passage more difficult. Instead of a constant weather current, to assist ships, it is pretty certain there would be a lee one from the north-east, along the east coast of Florida ; and its influence would most proba* bly be felt, far up to the north-east; from whence the Gorrent of colder water would flow, nearer the snrfe^e than it now can, covered sitperflcially as it is by the wanner gulf-stream. The high d^ree of temperature which thb great body of water acquires, by the sun's constant action upon it, being slowly reduced, during its propelled progress to the north-east,' it is probable, Aat it may advanceeven beyond the banks of Newfound- land, before it is reduced to the colder temperature of the fluid beneath it, which must be Aowing from the north- ern regions of condensation towards the points of great- est rarefaction and evaporation between the tropics, to supply the {dace of that, which the heat is as constantly evaporating and rarefying ; and so sending back in the upper strata of the atmospherei to the colder r^ons.<— The gulf-stream, thus propelled by lateral pressure, iq» to* wards the banks of Newfoundland, is seldom found to affect a ship, beyond those banks ; at the same time, it is possible, that some of it may advance fiMrther to the aoithwiEtrd, before that reduction is eflected in its tem« perature, which gives It a tendency to the southward. ■ J ! >' • i.n 1 10 For, many articles, the produce of tropical climes, and some, known to have been from the West Indies, have been cast ashore on the coasts of Europe. Some of these places being situated to the N.E. of Newfound- land, it is difficult to believe that these articles could have been driven thither by the winds, and the swell of the sea onfy. For these, prevailing nearly as much from N.W. as S.W., would give them about an east direc- tion. And if they were immersed sufficiently to feel the influence of the great underflow of cold fluid, from the north, which brings the icebergs down to 39** or 40° of latitude, they would move in ao east-southerly di- rection. It seems therefore reasonable to suppose, that there may still be the remains of a northerly movement of water at, and very near the surface, to cause bodies floating there to make a course, as some have done, to the northward of even E.N.E. from Newfoundland. The great body of the gulf-stream is, however, much reduced in temperature about the banks of Newfound- land ; and in proportion as it feels the cold of the great uikderflow from the north, it is turned gpradually to the eastward and southward, paet the Western Islands. Wbether any part of it reaches the coast of England, France, Portugal, or Spain, is a point much disputed. It is poscable, however, that it may; diveiging, a& it appears to do, to the eastward, and southward. Spme of the fluid that composed it may find its way to the northward of Cape Finisterre,and add something to the great body of water which the western swell heaves into the Bay of Biscay ; and proceeding to the north- ward, along the coast of France, sets over fivm Ushant beyond Cape Clear ; till meeting with a fluid below,, of a colder degree than its own, it perhaps gradually joins the Polar stream to the southward, according to its depth. and tempc it is possifa ing the wa ranean, wl lowei^than setting int indeed, sn admitted t ranean, is tion ; and ( setting out seems nec( the Meditc Atlantic. 9urpiM,\ft be equal" ( gravitiesthi face, and t is contrary possible th lantic, I b) it is little Azores; b east portic and as it s impulse ag pelted to a sortof ci the latitud of the Wei of 29° to 4 found, floa nates, live other vege Datd. and bave 36 of nnd- ould ill of from lirec- )ltlie from r or lydU ,that ment odies le, to land, much Hind- great ;othe ands. ;land, Mited. as it Some to the to the leaves Borth- shant aw, of r joins depth. and temperati:re. Some of the waters of the gulf stream; it is possible (though hardly that), may assist in supply- ing the water expended by evaporation in the Mediter- ranean, whose surface, therefore, it is presumed, mustb^ lower than that of the Atlantic, as the constant current setting into it seems to prove. Some philosophers, indeed, suppose that the quantity of water, continually admitted through the gut of Gibraltar into the Mediter- ranean, is greater than can be expended by evapora- tion ; and that, therefore, there must be a counter current setting out undemiath. To establish this opinion, it seems necessary, first, to prove that the temperature of the Mediterranean is lower generally than that of the Atlantic. For if it be higher (as is most probable), the surplus, if there were any, and allowing their surfoces to be equal" (and Phoca should have added, their specific gravities the same), "would, I presume, runout at the sur^ face, and the supply be received in underneath, which is contrary to fact. Though I have supposed it barely possible that some of the gulf stream may cross the At- lantic, I by no means say that it is so. On the contrary, it is little felt by ships, far to the eastward of the Azores ; but in the vicinity of thoseislands, the south- east portion of it gradually turns to the southward,' and as it advances in that direction, soon feeling the impulse again of the grand equinoctial current, is com- pelled to partake of its western motion : thus forming a sortof circular eddy, which may be comprised between the latitude of about 18° or 19° North, and the parallel of the Western Islands ; and from about the longitude of 29? to 43° West. Within these limits, the gulf weed is found, floating on the surface, where I suppose it origi- naties, lives its appointed time, and decays, like any other vegetable production ; and I believe it is rarely I !>!•■■. in Hi: 18 or never met nvitb beyond these limits. Though I have admitted the bare possibility, that some of the gulf stream may enter the strait of Gibraltar, I cannot agree with the writer of the article in the Quarterly Review, when he says (speaking of the gulf stream), that it is of sufficient force and quantity to make its influence be felt in the distant ' Strait of Gibraltar.' Thus, implying (if I understand him right), that this ' force and quantity.' of the gulf stream are primary causes of the constant current into the strait. On the contrary, thinking, as I do, that the causes of this constant flow of water into the Mediterranean are of a purely local nature, connect- ed exclusively with that sea ; I therefore think it most probable that if the great equinoctial currentflowed (as I presume itwould, were there a sufficient passage) through the Continent of America, into the Pacific ; aftd conse- quently annihilated the present gulf stream, there would still be the very same flow of water into the Mediter- ranean as there is now, as long as the sun'«i power con- tinued, and the localities exclusively belonging to that sea remained the same. In short, I am of opinion that the waters of the Atlantic (approximate to the Strait of Gibraltar) feel the influence of purely Mediterranean causes ; and that neither ' the force' nor * quantity' of the gulf stream have any eflect whatever in causing the current that runs into the Mediterranean. It is well known, by experience, that this current is strongest with easterly gales ; in the hottest weather, with wind at the same time ; and is diminished during the prevalence of westerly winds, and is weaker in winter generally than in summer.' But to return : — ^Tlie winds and sur* ' The opinions of men of science are still divided as to the cause of the constant current which runs into the Mediterranean, tlirough the strait of Gibraltar. In turning over the Annual Register for the year 17^0, face ciirr generally, » ilMrt tiae Boyal Socir b«t not qaiti etb«r. Mr.V into the Mti riftn which •Kuitiiiepk, 4 cvaporatioa tie Mediten lity of water redneed to a many thouwi phesis hat n ■re not beco •p eraporat ndundamt m the evaporal supply tbrooi by M the ri« aUy30fc«t? in tbc Mflditc ■ad not an ei have. The ei viudihefir thflor to reeoi of the existe Mediterrane tions (and c vesael havin niddk of tl wrack of Ihi •ftaraomei meit, towarcj MCDOB of tl from west ■guast the lltttMr. WJ ~ *-. 19 face mrrffnts in the PaclliR Ocean are influenced, generally, in a nmilar way, by the sun's power, as thoM • •iMrt tiac ago, 1 obienrcd an cuay, wriUen by Mr. Waia, of the Boyal Society of Slookholm, to explain ibis muse. It is ingenious, bat not qaite satisfisetory, because his facts are at variance with each other. Mr. Waia computes that " the water, wliich is received aannally into the Mediterranean, by the straits, and from the Nile, and all the mors which fall into the Black Sea, and flow throogh the straitof Con* atantinopic, oamiot raise its surface less than thirty feet : and the annual evaporation to lower it about /orfy-/oNr fiMt." He theu says that " if tke Mediterranean had lost annually, aince it first existed, this quan* tity of water, by evaporation, it would, long before now, have been ledoced to a vast mass of indurated salt." And yet, he adds, '* in the many thousand years, since this sea haa been known, this metamor- phesis has not taken place, but even its waters, as far as we know, are not become more salt." He therefore feels himself obliged to give «p evaporation, and " seek some other expedient to get rid of it» redundant waters." What redundant waters 1 Has he not computed the evaporation to be sofficient to lower its surface 44 feet, and its supply through the strrit of Gibraltar, and the Dardanelles, as well aa by all the rivers, which flow into it, as only sufficient to raise itannu- aUy 30 feet? Thas, so for from there being any redundancy of water in the Mediterranean, an annually increased supply would be reqnired, and not an expedient to get rid of what he himself proves it cannot have. The expedient he has recourse to, however, is a double current, whids he first proposes to ouertain frith all possible exactness, and Umv to reconcile it to the laws of hydrostatics. As a proof (to him) of the existence of this mnder current, from east to west, oat of the Mediterranean (which ht assumes to be salter and heavier), he men* tions (and others have repeated it) a story of a " Dntch transport vessel having been beaten to piece* by a French ship of war, in the middle of the strait of Gibraltar, between Tariffa and Tangier; the wreck of this vessel, with some casks, and other light things, appeared, ailer aome days, on the surfece of the water, four English mites to the tKit, towarda the Spanish sea." Mr. Waia then observes, '* If the di> lection of the current were the same at the bottom, as on the snrfhce, ftom west to east, these wrecks could not have raited them$ettei, •gainst the current, so as to swim at top " If we may here assume that Mr. Waia believed, that this wreck, with the casks and other . V ^ i^t I I I ■m 'It \ i between Africa and America, making however dae allowance for the difference of the formation and poai- hghi Ibinga, did not float on the turface, but immtdjately MMiilrdowa to the Bottom (the ti>rin Im umi) , or at Icait into a fluid of that d*- gTM ofialtaeis and gravity which (ai he afterwards attempt! to-prova, by expcriuient) roust give it a direction to the weit, and carry these light articles along with it, — I would ask, then, If the fluid at the sur- face were, as Ac must allow, leas salt, or specifically lighter than that beneath il, m proportion to its depth, yet still how couid these light articles sink to that couveuient depth, unlesa their specific gravity was greater than it V And if greater (which however can hardly be ad- mitted), by what law could they, when carried far enough to the west- ward, « eonvenientlif raise themuhet again to the surface, and be observed floating in a medium, that could not support them before 1 But the truth is, the fact, if il be one, proves, if it prove any thing (taking it for granted, that the light substance) specified would have floated in the surface fluid), that they must have been driven within the influence of that turfaee counter current, which every utaa who has had experience in the strait of Gibraltar, knows, does set to the weetward, close in, both on the Barbary and Spanish shores. Mr. Wait, on the authority of Count Marsigli, assumes the exist- ence of an under and surface current (in opposition to each other) through the strait of Constantinople. He sajs, "that the salt water enters at the bottom iato the Black Sea, and is then rendered lighter by the quantity of fresh water thai runs into it ; after which, it flows again in the same strait, above the salt water, into the Mediterraaean, aa is seen in the strait of Gibraltar." He also says, " The currents are stronger at Constantinople than at Gibraltar, because the differ- ence in the degrees of saltness, of the water which comes in and that which goes out, is greater, namely, according to Marsigli, 73 to 62 ; whereas it is not so great in the strait of Spain." The theory of this under current, in the strait of Gibraltar, is thus explained by Mr. Waiz : " As there is a continual and copious discharge of salt water into the Mediterranean, a great part of -this water deposits its salt by evaporation ; therefore what is left always remains more salt, and consequently more weighty. SuppoeiHg then the surfaces of the two seas, the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, to be equaF' (a supposition, however, vithout facts to support it), " their gravity would not be equal ; but the water of the Meditemncan^ as the tiont of in uniform gei moat weighty, would run tof the Mcditerrai the water of I through the a spreads itself weight, alread get away, but inferior opposi the two currei The experii the laws of hy^ long box, divi be a small hoi end of the bo: On hastily opt which is the- where the oil i manner, and a which it will i cannot mix wi to two waters aalter than thi • This hypol may be applic be aalter, and philosophers, in preference quantity of « supply every Atlantic. Ti proving it. Colonel Ca| though publis till last week, the cause : and tlie surroi .1 c lur- tioM of intervening lands. For iheitt obstract the vnifiDrm general tendency of the winds and currents mott weighty, would pr«t* on that of th« Atlantic, and the two icaa woald run together, till the waten became of equal weight, to that the Mediterranean would neceisarily be lowest. When this happeni, the water of the Atlantic, which is higheat, t ^nnot take un rourie through the atrait but by a higher current, by means of which it spreads itself in the Mediterranean ; but this would nugnicnt the weight, already the greatest, of the water of the latter, which cannot get away, but by opening itself a passage underneath, and formiug an inferior opposite current in the strait. This is m^teiit to produce the two currents, and to perpetuate them without interruption." The experiment to prove this hypothesis to be in agreement with the laws of hydrostatics, is then thus described by Mr. Waiz. " Take a long box, divided into two by a board fixed in the middle ; let there be a amall hole in the board which yuu can shut at pleasure. Fill one end of the box with water, and the other with oil, to an eqtial heighi. On hastily opening the hole, in the board that divides them, the water, which is the heaviest, will be seen to run into the end of the box where the oil is. On the contrary, the oil will be carried in the same manner, and at the same time, into that end where the water is, over which it will spread itself. It may indeed be objected, that, as oil cannot mix with water, it must get at top, but the same thing happens to two waters of unequal gravity, when oue is coloured and much aalter than the other." ^ This hypothesis of Mr. Waiz stands on pretty sure ground, and may be applicable to the Mediterranean, if its waters are proved to be uUer, and consequently heavier, than those of the Atlantic. Some philosophers, taking thii for granted, have adopted and supported it, in preference to that of Dr. Halley, who was of opinion that the quantity of water evaporated from the Mediterranean, exceeds the supply every way necessary to equalize its surface with that of the Atlantic. Thi» Mr. Waiz also admits to be the fact ; and sets cut by proving it. Colonel Capper, whose " Observations on the Winds and Monsoons," though published in the year 1801 I never happened to meet with till last week, says, at page 302, on this question of evaporation being the cause : " In summer the land is always much hotter than water, and tlie surrounding air on land is .much more dry ; consequently the ^ i from east to west; therefore from the eert coast of N^eenin all ages. That its surface ii hmer generally than that of the Wack Sea, and of the Atlantic, we want no calcukitiou to show : the constant flow of the first through the Strait of Constantinople, and of the Atlantic into it through the Gut of Gibraltar, are facts before our «fes which prove it agreeably to the laws of hydrostatics. And accordf iog to the same faiws, soever the supply to the Mediterranean shouU so fcr exceed the expenditure by evaporation, as to red/tM Mr. Wain's supposititious theory of equal surfiKes, then the effect he showed by bis box experiment may take place, frmided the waters of the Medi- temneao be specifically favavier, salter, and colder, at equal depths, tiia^ those of the Atlantic. Butif Uiey are neariy of equal specific gravity (which, notwithstanding a few partial experiments to Uie contrary* m f >■ ', m would'be leading 418 too fur out of the way, to attempt to traSce the currents in the Indian seas, influenced as they are, so variously, and oppositely, in their direction and velocity, at different seasons, by the Monsoons tthd the bodies of land within their limits. Suffice it to saj what more particularly applies to the North Pacific, and will lead us again to the Arctic regions. <> '* Having said, that the air is rarefied and raised in the atmosphere, and that the greatest ddgree of evajjio- ration is effected between the west coast of Africa, and the east coast of America ; and that north of the line< the fluid is so returned towards the Nortli'>Pole, and being condensed somewhere in its passage by cold, it perhaps supplies with water some of the rivers which discharge into the seas of the temperate zone or into the Nortlij Polar Ocean ; and, whether falling in rain, hail, or snow* upon the earth or not, it ultimately finds its way into t^e Ocean. And according to the temperature propof'^ tionate to its depth, the water takes a direction towards the regions of equatorial heat ; is again raised by that heat to the surface, and again evaporated. Experiments in the Ocean have proved, that when the temperature of the atmosphere exceeds that of the surface of the sea, the superficial water is generally warmer than that at certain depths beneath it (I say generally^ because in soundings^ and confined waters, local causes efiect many it probably the case), and the surface of the Mediterranean be at all times lower than that of the Atlantic, then the perpetual flow of the surface of the latter into the Mediterranean must be the oensequence* as certainly as any other effect follows its proper antecedent cause. Nay, even if the Red Sea had any channel of communication with the Mediterranean, itt waters also would flow into it, because the surface of the Red Sea, I should suppose, nuut be higher than that of the other, for obvious reasons*" — . .- «..<. ,■> ,„»r-, el^ •« barrier of ice which stopped the progress of Cook's suc- cessors was moveable, or no where touched the bottom. The writer of Cook's Voyage was of the same opinion as to the ice nearest the ship, though that opinion rested on a foundation that might not, perhaps, equally apply to the larger masses of ice further to the northward, and not seen. His words are : — ' We had twice traversed the sea, in lines nearly parallel to the run we had just made, and in the first of those traverses we were not able to penetrate so far north, by eight or ten leagues^ as in the second ; and that in the last, we had again found an united body of ice, generally about five leagues to the southward of its position in the preceding run. As this proves that the large compact fields of ice which we saw were moveable, or diminishing, at the same time, it does not leave any well-founded expecta* tion of advancing much further in the most favorable season.' "Though this proves that the floating ice seen shifted its position, both to the northward and to the southward^ but chiefly the latter, as will be soon further proved — yet it does not prove that the Iktrger masses to the northward, perhaps, which they did not see, might not be immoveable, by grounding on the bottom, if the water became shoaler in that direction, as oaf navigators found it waSt as far as they advanced. Now should there have been any immoveable masses of ice to the northward, it would in some degree explain why the current, which the writer in the review sup- poses to set with such ' violence * from the Pacific, jshould not have carried the ice away with it towards the Pole, where there may be none. But, if the whols of this ice was moveable, it proves that whether there was a small current setting to the northward, or not. and whethe there must h ward, or soi impelled the other, as wel been general is said in Co the year 177 vanced to th and that the ing as far as or the whole us (from th( hemmed in 1 side they c were sure t( quite across, northward, structed by i quite imposs In the seco] they were n Asia higher than 68% oi they were ol the southwar the northwa space betwe " Now all of a current ing's Strait, posed a boc tity to supp ally into the "1 29 t and whether at the surface or the bdttdm, or both, there must have been a stronger current from the north- ward, or something else, which still more powerfully impelled the ice to the southward, in defiance of the other, as well as of the wind, which appears to have been generally from the south-west when strongest. It is said in Cook's Voyage, ' It may be observed, that in the year 1778, we did not meet with the ice till we ad- vanced to the latitude of 70", on the 17th of August ; and that then we found it in compact bodies, extend- ing as far as the eye could reach, and of which a part or the whole was moveable ; since by drifting down upon us (from the northward) we narrowly escaped being hemmed in between it and the land.' On the Asiatic side they encountered extensive fields of ice, and were sure to meet with it about the latitude of 70°, quite across, whenever they attempted to stand to the northward. On the 26th of August they were ob- structed by it in 694°, in such quantities as made it quite impossible to pass either to the n6rth or west. In the second attempt they could do little more, for they were never able to approach the continent of Asia higher than 67° ; nor that of America, in any part, than 68% or 68°. 20' north. But in the last attempt they were obstructed by the ice three degrees further to the southwardt and their endeavors to push further to the northward were principally confined to the mid space between the two coasts. •• • ' "^^^ ** Now all this does not seem to favor the supposition of a current 'rushing in' from the Pacific through Behr** ing's Strait, with such velocity, as it may fairly be sup* posed a body of water would have, of sufficient quan- tity to supply the southerly current, ' setting perpetu'^ ally into the Athntic on both sides of Greenland, not J** ^^1 ilPt 30 i *i- only when the ice is melting, but when the sea iafreez* ing.' Indeed, if we do but consider for a moment the quantity of water that may be supposed to flow through so extensive a space as Davis's Strait, * with a ve- locity of four, and sometimes even five miles an hour;' and then add to that the amazing quantity setting as constantly to the southward, in the still greater space to the eastward of Greenland and Spitzbergen, it does certainly appear to be improbable, nay, impossible^ that a current of at least equal, or of double velocity, and occupying the full extent in depth and breadth of Behring's Strait, would be at all adequate to answer the demand ; much less, so trifling a current as we are warranted hy facts to believe there is. For in Cook's Voyage, the remarks on this matter are thus summed up : — * By comparing the reckoning with the observa- tions, we found the currents to set different ways, yet more from south-west than any other quarter. We again tried the currents, and found them unequal, but never exceeding one mile an hour. Whatever their direction might be, their effect was so triflings that no conclusion respecting the existence of a passage to the northward could be drawn from them.' It is presumed, that all the currents here spoken of were superficial ; but even admitting they extended quite across the Strait, and flowed the same way throughout its whole depth, still il seems quite beyond the bounds of possibility that the quantity of water so admitted, and with a rate of flow Uo triJUngy' could be siifficient for the supply of the currents * setting to the southward perpetually, through the other two open- ings, (Baffin's sea being doubted thea) into the At- lantic* "Judging from such /acts as are before us, that a part, and bi ply the SOI through Bel what source polar regioE to be prod I generally b heat, and I atmosphere, gions, even of the Almij and his pa surely in th< steps are n humbly to c " Whethe the melting current to t and perhaps in the 'Pol nearly the sa less ice ; th: make up th; 'those who afford such ranee great of the verj exerts on fit are by a fn However, t nions have of the ice ii how it is foi it was the c • " It) " " - '.-- '■ •* ■:yr- 31 part, and biit a very small part, of the demand to sup- ply the southern current, comes in from the Pacific through Behring's Strait, it is necessary to inquire, From what sources then is all the water so flowing out of the polar regions derived ? I have supposed the currents to be produced (at least the motion of the great deep) generally by evaporation in the equatorial regions of heat, and by cold returned in various ways in the atmosphere, by land and by sea, into the northern re- gions, even as far as the Pole. For though ' the way of the Almighty is,' as the Psalmist says, * in the sea, and his path in the deep waters,' yet it is also as surely in the clouds of heaven. And though his foot- steps are not known certainly, yet it is permitted us humbly to endeavor to trace them. " Whether or not there be any increase of water from the melting of the ice in the Polar sea, so as to cause a current to the south, appears not to be v«?ry material, and perhaps has little to do with the general quantity in the ' Polar basin.* In all probability, it remains nearly the same at all times, whether there is more or less ice ; that is, taking the ice and water together to make up that quantity. I agree with the reviewer, that * those who could suppose the melting of the ice to afford such a supply, would betray a degree of igno- rance greater, perhaps, than that of not being aware of the very little influence which an arctic summer exerts on fields of ice, perpetually surrounded as they are by a freezing atmosphere created by themselves!' However, there is no subject, perhaps, on which opi- nions have been more at variance than on the melting of the ice in the polar regions, as well as where and how it is formed. St. Pierre went so far as to suppofse it was the cause of the tides ; but he does not appear IJ I' ■ \ 'si •I ; > f i 3 4 3i to have been a ' plain matter-of-fact man/ but of fancy and imagination. Hfmy.t y^/^trtni > "Others think the ice does not melt at all, or at least very little, even in summer. If ice, when once formed (be it how it may) round and along the coasts of these regions, does not melt at all, there must be a constant increase, so long as that ice is ' surrounded perpetually by a freezing atmosphere created by itself,' which the reviewer tells us it ' mostly is, even in sum- mer :' and if so, we may fairly presume it always is in winter. " At this rate, with the exception of what may make its escape through Davis's Strait, and to the eastward of Greenland, it would necessarily be always advancing towards the Pole, (admitting the land to be the place of its first formation) and close over it ; unless, we can find some probable cause counteracting this eAecl jf perpetual frost. And perhaps we are warranted ia supposing that there exists some such cause. Indeed it seems more than probable, that the process oi freez- ing and melting may be going on in the arctic regions, on the same body of ice, (if of magnitude to be suffici- ently immersed,) at the same time, and perhaps in the winter, as well as the summer. ** Water is a compound of ice and caloric. The temperature of ice is 32° ; and whilst surrounded by a temperature equal, it will remain ice. But whenever the temperature of the atmosphere exceeds 32% and continues so long enough for the body of ice to receive a sufficiency of caloric to effect its dissolution, it will do so. It is probable, that the temperature of the atmo- sphere, even in the arctic r^ions, in summer will sorae- •times exceed 32°, and the more, perhaps, the nearer the Pole; and whenever it does, sufficiently^ the effect on ice is obvious. " This se of ice aim summer, if sufficiently i rature of t1 that, of coi constant, t1 bably not fr even in a^ whilst freez! and extent I in washing melting unci be accelerat and the de niosphere is water will found warn and though establish tht sion. Thus mosphere s {clear of la higher, tha much highe of ice, above and augraei immersed congelation ing. The having beei that their increase of below, acc< Data. 33 " This seems suflicient to be said, on tlie probahility of ice above water meltinj; in the Arctic regions in summer, if the temperature of the atmosphere ever sufficiently exceeds 32°. In the winter, as the tempe- rature of the atmosphere must be constantly below thaty of course the freezing above water will be as constant, though the surface of the sea itself will pro* bably not freeze till at a temperature much below 30", even in a motionless state. The same body of ice, whilst freezing above water, that is, increasing in size and extent by snow, hail, and the salt water freezing in washing over it, may perhaps, at the same time, be melting under water; and this process will probably be accelerated according to the magnitude of the mass, and the depth of its immersion. For, when the at- mosphere is colder than the surface of the sea, the water will (in proportion, perhaps, to its depth) be found warmer by some degrees, than at the surface ; and though few experiments have yet been made to establish the fact, yet sufficient to warrant this conelu- sion. Thus in summer, if the temperature of the at- mosphere should be 32°, and the surface of the sea {clear of land and soundings) three or four degrees higher, that of the water below would probably be much higher still ; so that the portion of a lai^e mass of ice, above the surface of the sea, would remain ice, and augment ; and the other portion of it beknv, being immersed in a temperature exceeding the point of congelation, would probably be melting and decreas- ing. The well attested facts, of large bodies of ice having been seen to capsize or turn bottom up, prove that their centres of gravity are altered, by either an increase of their bulk above, or a diminution of it below, according to the excess of either effect. Upon Data. £ • 1 i I 3 , f — i_ f I 34 the whole, however, it seems probablu, that in the Arc- tic regions the process of freezing in (he atmosphere exceeds that of melting under water, particularly on those Nmaller masses of ice which are immersed the least, and therefore there must be a general increase of ice in the ' Polar basin,' from the Pole (if the ice originates there) towards the lands surrounding the ' basin ( or from those lands (if the ice first forms there) up towards the Pole. On this question, too, opinions have been various. Every circumstance seems to weigh against the opinion of its greatest formation being about the Pole, except one, and that is, because the sea water there will probably contain least salt. I am disposed to believe that it must also be much colder in the winter^ at the surface of the sea near the Pole, than any where else. In the part of the Polar basiu further to the southward, where it is bounded by land, it is to be presumed that the general prevailing winds are from S.W. to N.W., particularly the former, in bad weather ; northerly, and easterly, when most settled and fine. If so, it is to be supposed there will be a current generally prevailing from the westward to the east- ward, partaking at the same time of that general tendency of the fluid to move southward from the Pole, which I imagine it will be found to have, from the coldness of its temperature " [meaning, I suppose, as compared with the progressively increasing general temperature of the sea from the Pole towards the Equa- tor]. ** These two general combined impulses, ope- rating on moveable bodies, floating on the surface of the Arctic seas, must impel them in an east-southerly direction, all round the globe : being, in fact, that * circumvolving current,* which the reviewer mentions, ^M carrying fir« larch, aspen, and other trees, the pro-^ (luce of liot through th ' puzzling' < lemarks he in^ so happ of the notii ject, I do n continues : sumed, tha Arctic sea, leads me t( the w?nds t " In the may) its gen west to east to the south force of an; being greaU " If we ci regions, no southward, c Lapland to Asia, till w strait it do the ice can extent; ant cient to floi may also Ix of the * gn supposes, passage thi " From 1 America, \ we get to 35 sea duce of liolh Aaift antl America, from the Polar bnsin through the outlet into the northern ooean." The • puzzling' diAgram, as Phoca terms it, as well as the i«mark8 he makes on the reviewer's ingenuity, in hav- ing BO happily ' assisted ' the reader in the explanation of the notions he entertained on this interesting sub- ject, I do not deem it necessary to repeat here. Phoca continues : " Having, for the reasons before given, pre- sumed, that there is a circumvolving current in the Arctic sea, from west to east, but touthcrly withal, it leads me to inquire into the probable effect of i/, and the wmds together, upon floating masses of ice. " In the first place, (let the ice be formed where it may) its general direction will in all probability be from west to east, with a tendency at the same time to set to the southward, too strong to be counteracted by the force of any winds from that quarter ; its bulk under being greater than that above the surface. " If we cast our eyes on a chart of the north Polar regions, no opening is seen for the egress of ice to the southward, out of the • Polar basin,' from Norway and Lapland to the eastward, along the whole coast of Asia, till we come to Behring's Strait. Through this strait it does not appear at all probable that much of the ice can pass, on account of its comparative small extent ; and the depth of water being perhaps insuffi- cient to float the bodies of greatest magnitude. There may also be * a trifling current,' as I suppose ; or one of the • greatest violence,' as the Quarterly Reviewer supposes, running in from the Pacific, to oppose its passage through the Strait. " From Behring's Strait, then, all along the coast of America, we find no opening for the ice to escape till we get to • Baffin's Sea !' and Davis's Strait. Through y 36 this Strait, if there be an uninterrupted communication, it is not unfair to presume that immense quantities would be carried by a current 'running perpetually with a velocity, as it is stated, of four, and sometimes of even five miles an hour V I am, however, inclined to think, that either from the interruption of lands, or shoals, between Greenland and America, a comparative small quantity passes from the ' Polar basin' through Davis's Strait ; and that much of the ice, as well as currents, may have Hudson's Bay for their origin. If any obstruction do exist to the free egress of ice through Davis's Strait, the consequence must be a vast accumulation of it, in a mass more or less conso- lidated, from about Nova Zembla, all the way to the eastward, as far as Greenland, and extending north- ward from every part of the coasts of Asia and Ame- rica, at least to the parallel of latitude in which the north point of Greenland may lie. For whatever masses of ice cannot pass through Davis's Strait must be pressed continually by others, brought from the westward and northward, by the circumvolving cur- rent, along the north part of the more connected ice. " If its progress to the southward, through Davis's Strait, were not somehow impeded, it would pass through. If impeded in its coui-se to the southward (let the im- pediment be what it may), it is yet still more impeded in its progress to the eastward, by the west side of Greenland ; and therefore must accumulate against this solid barrier, as far at least to the northward as Greenland extends. Then, and not till then, can ice of any comparative quantity drive further to the east- ward, or find any passage down to the southward. All the ice farthest to the northward of Greenland is then at liberty to move on towards Spitzbergen ; whilst tlie ice that when rounc take a turn withal ; bee eddy, that i of waters ps land. The extend to tl or else ' bi lately, and lantic. "This is Greenland ment to the son to sup[ and east co; ment. But being a curi rable dista Spitzbergen that any ra northward ence of the fore make Zembla, ar land and S to the nor Arctic reg the moven may be to " Much way to the likely, that pact, Mill // 37 Hie ice that may be in motion closest in with the land, when rounding the north-east part of Greenland, will take a turn to the southward, and in towards the coast withal ; because it will be within the influence of an eddy, that must necessarily be produced in the stream of waters passing nearest to the north-east part of that land. There it must collect, and if it consolidate, extend to the shores of Iceland, or even Spitzbergen ; or else ' burst its fetters,' as it is said to have done lately, and drift away to the southward, into the At- lantic. "This is sufficient to account for the ice between Greenland and Spitzbergen having a general move- ment to the south-west. And there is the ^ame rea- son to suppose, that the ice nearest to the north-east and east coast of Spitzbergen, has also a similar move- ment. But it will not warrant the conclusion, of there being a current in the same direction, at any conside- rable distance to the northward and eastward of Spitzbergen. On the contrary, it seems most probable, that any masses of ice found in that direction, to the northward of 82° or 83°, will be more within the influ- ence of the general circumvolving current ; and there- fore make an east-southerly drift towards Nova Zembla, and perhaps clear of its NE. point. Green- land and Spitzbergen, being situated so much farther to the northward than any other known land in the' Arctic regions, form an impenetrable barrier against the movement, to the eastward, of any ice but what may be to the northward of them both. " Much of this northernmost surplus ice finding its way to the southward, is one reason why it seems very likely, that ice in the greatest quantity, and most com- pact, will be found from about Nova Zembla, all along ^im " ^ 38 the coasts of Asia and America, and extending to the northward as far, generally, as the north part of Greenland; and that, perhaps, less and less ice will be found to the northward of its parallel, as the Pole is approached. That is, adopting the opinion that the ice is first produced near the surrounding lands, and accumulated afterwards at sea, so as to extend its sur- face from those lands northerly till it reaches the pa- rallel of the north point of Greenland, which the surplus ice must rounds before it can pass into the Atlantic, if Davis e Strait be obstructed. *' Greenland and Spitsbergen forming so powerAil a bar to the progress of the ice to the eastward, with the circumvolving current, renders it extremely probable that there is always less ice between Nova Zembla and Spitzbei^en than any where else in the same parallel, and perhaps still less, the nearer the Pole in summer. ** Whether the ice during the winter encompasses the Pole or not, can only be matter of conjecture ; and, in all probability, the fact will never be decided by man. In that season, if the cold is intense in proportion to the nearness to the Pole, it is possible the ice may ad- vance to it. But yet, as it is more probably drifted out of the ' Polar basin,' as fast as it collects, to the northward of Greenland, it seems more reasonable to conclude that it seldom reaches beyond the latitude of 82° or 83°, in any very extensive or consolidated bodies, all the year round. On this ground, for one, rests the opinion I hold in common with the writer of the article in question, of the probability of the vicinity of the Pole being free of ice in the summer ; not, however, as a con- sequence of there being no land there, but whether there shall be any land or not. For I have supposed it likely, that the temperature of the atmosphere, in the Arctic regie more, perhc First, becaui have given.- a warmer ati Pole itself, t as far as 80' strike the F six months ; yet to learn, their distanc influence wi during the p than at the F the horizon, the greatest i as, there, he the latitude about four n "We are appearance < land offers— the Pole ; ai the northern "Astotht the subject, offers for at would be ve be collected land, but ali and towardt is to be made, ward of Spit offered, it 39 Arctic regions, sometimes may exceed 32»; and the more, perhaps, the nearer the Pole i approached. First, because there may be less ice, for the reasons I have given.— And if there be ice, there will probablj/ be a warmer atmospheric temperature, to dissolve it, at the Pole itself, than any where else to the southward of it, as far as 80" or 75° : because, when the sun's rays first strike the Pole, they will be felt there incessantly for six months ; but with what force and effect, we have yet to learn. On all other parallels, in proportion to their distances from the Pole, the duration of the sun's influence will be shorter. And though the sun's power, during the periods they feel it, may perhaps be greater than at the Pole, yet being interrupted whilst he is below the horizon, it is perhaps probable, on the whole, that the greatest effect of the sun's heat may be at the Pole ; as, there, he is above the horizon for six months ; in the latitude of 84% about five months; and in 78i, about four months only at a time. "We are next to inquire, what facility the late dis- appearance of the ice from the east coast of Old Green- land offers— first, for attempting a direct passage over the Pole; and secondly, the more circuitous one, along the northern coast of America, into the Pacific. "As to the first, according to the view I have taken of the subject, it appears to me that the facility this event offers for attempting a direct passage over the Pole, would be very nearly the same, whether more or less ice be collected, not only on the eastern coast of Old Green- land, but all round it, and even between it and Iceland, and towards Spitzbergen. That is, provided the attempt is to be made, as it is to be hoped it will be, to the east- ward of Spitzbergen ; becau&e, for the reasons I have offered, it is probable the least quantity of ice will be •I •i. i 'V 7M*«' found there, clear of the land. At all events, whatever masses may be found there, they will in all probability be of less magnitude, and more detached from each other, because the space for them to move in is least confined. If any of the vessels fitting out be destined to take this route, the probability is, that if they advance beyond the latitude of 82" or 83° north, the ice will less and less impede their progress to the Pole ; and to reach it will perhaps be the least difficult part of the enterprise. To the northward of 82° or 83°, up to the Pole, it is likely that the weather in the sum* mer will be for the most part fine, but hazy generally. Thick fogs will be frequent. The winds are likely to be moderate, shifting often round from north to east, by south, to west, and north again, but prevailing chiefly from the eastward and northward. If our Polar navigator pass the Pole without any great dif- ficulty, and find the true south course he has steered to be on or near the 170° west meridian, and so leading him towards Behring's Strait, he will, in all probability, soon get to the southward as far as 80°, or perhaps 78", where it is as probable he will find his further progress stopped by ice, perhaps impenetrable. " From this part of the expedition, therefore, / see no very reasonable ground for entertaining ' lively hopes,' that a practicable passage for ships will be discovered into the Pacific, though there does not seem to be the least doubt of there being one for water and fish. "As to the second, viz. *the more circuitous pas- sage, along the north coast of America into the Pacific,' the prospect of success is still more unfavorable than the other ; because the navigators are destined, in the first place, , • to struggle against the ice, currents, and tides, in Davis's Strait, and on the east coast of America, which the W! tells us him! tains and pa the failure in passage, or the highest p arctic circle," allowing th north-east p through whi they will th€ degrees of fields of ice current as w neral direct there be anj for ships can Atlantic, al< are, that it \ Strait to the likely to be to be maki because moi of our navij of the Russi It appear of his unsuc December, to be sent o ence of a n( 1818, four I Alexander, the north- w tions. On Data. k- lever lility each in is it be at if or til, > the icult • 83% SUID' rally, ly to east, iiling ' our it dif- eered iding )ility, s78", }gress ee no opes,' vered >e the ; pas- icific,' m the e first tides, lerica, 41 which the writer of the article I have been examining tells ns himself * are of course never free from moun- tains and patches of ice;' and to which he attributes the failure in every attempt, either to make this {verij) passage, or to ' ascertain its impracticability;' so that the highest point former navigators ever reached is the arctic circle," or at most the 67th parallel !' But even allowing that the present adventurers do reach the northeast point of America, and discover a passage through what is 'gratuitously called BaflSn's Bay,' they will then have to make no less than one hundred degrees of westing, most probably through immense fields of ice, fixed, or moving with the circuravolving current as well as the winds, both prevailing in a ge- neral direction from west to east, against them. If there be any ground to hope that a practicable passage for ships can be discovered between the Pacific and the Atlantic, along the north coast of America, the chances are, that it will be done (if ever it be) from Behring's Strait to the eastward ; and therefore, it is much more likely to be accomplished by the Russian officers, said to be making the attempt this year, ihan by ours ; because most of the obstacles opposed to the progress of our navigators, from east to west, will be in favor of the Russians the other way." , It appears in the preface to Captain Ross's account of his unsuccessful Voyage, that as eariy as the 4th of December, 1817, he was informed that two ships were to be sent out to ascertain the existence or non-exist- ence of a north-west passage. On the 15th of January, 1818, four ships were commissioned, viz. the Isaljella, Alexander, Dorothea, and Trent; the two former for the north-west, and the latter two for the Polar expedi- tions. On the 16th of April the Isabella and Alex- Data. ^ 'Vi •It I i «# ik \ 49 ander reached (lie Nore, and on the 35t.h their pilots quitted them off Cromer. The Dorothea and Trent joined them at Lerwick on the let of May, hut did not accompany them to sea on tl e 3d. Tl»e instructions to Captain Ross, who commanded the N.W. expedition, (as exhihited in his account of his Voyage) were dated on the 31st March, 1818 ; and from their general tenor it would seem that the Quarterly Reviewer had been cunsuUed, and many of his suggestions adopted, as to the most eligible route to be pursued. The reviewer denied, or at least doubted the existence of the land seen by Baffin, and what had been hitherto ' gra- tuitously called Baffin's Bay;' and assumed the belief of an open sea to the northward of Davis's Strait, and the existence of a * perpetual cwrent through that Strait, from the northward, with a velocity of four, and sometimes even of five milvis an hour.' In conformity with these assumptions. Captain Ross is instructed, in the first plac^, ' to make the best of bis way into Davis's Strait, through which he will endeavor to pass to tht noHhiiaardy without stopping on either of its coasts, unless be should find it absolutely necessary.' The instructions add — ' From the best information we have been able to obtain* it would appear that a current of some force runs from the northward towards the upper part of Davis's Strait, during the summer season, and perhaps for most part of the winter also. This current, if it be considerable, can scarcely be altogether supplied by streams from the land, or the melting of ice ; there would therefore seem reason to suppose it may be derived from an opm sea, in which case Baffin's Bay cannot be bounded by land.' The reviewer supposes, as we have seen in a former page, that the northrcast point of America may be situated in latitude ftom 70° to 72» N», ai west passagi made near t difficulty in \ ' they are g< venience w( northward t< this, it is e Ross,' as a | fields of ice is deepest, a reason to su near the she sttaiis, and whether thi( one) sugges who drew ii pursue his c rection as through the would in a making his the reasons himself mui ciple; thou lure of the accidents to peciially wl (hat of a Captain R< part of th« which, if I from ' field edge awaj I »l I - 1 (1 •easi i70» to 72» N., and says, that all former attempts at a north west passage failed, because ttone of them were ever made near that part of the coast; but he apprehends difficulty in approaching it by way of nartow Straits, as ♦ they are gendVally choked up with ice, which incon- venience would be obviated by standing first to thfe northward to the latitude of 71° cr 72".' Agreeably to this, it is suggesteil 'in the instructions to Captain Ross,' as a general observation, that a passage through fields of ice is most likely to be found where the sea is deepest, and least connected with lands as there ib reason to suppose that ice is found to be more abundant near the shores of the continent and islundsi in narrow itraits, and deep bays.' By the by, I wonder whether this observation (which is really a very sound one) suggested itself to the person (whoever hei was) who drew up the ingtructiona for Captain Buchan^ to pursue his course in the ' Dorothea dttd Trent, in a di- rection as due north as may be found practicable through the Spitzbergen seas.' If it had< tbit offlfier would in all probability lidve been moire fortunate in making his attempt to the eaitwdrd of Spitzbergen, for the reasons given by Phoca, and which the reviewer himself must admit to be correct, even on his mn prin- ciple ; though to be sure the reviewer says, • The fai- lure of the Polar expedition was owing to an6 of those accidents to which all sea voyages sire liable, more es- petiially when to the ordinary sea risk is superadded that of a navigation amotig fields and mksses ot ite/ Captain Ross is further instrucjted, after reaching • that part of the sea to the northward of Davis's Strait' which, if reports may be relied on, is generally free from • field ice,' to stand well to the northward before he pdge away to the westward, itt ordw to get a good , j i ■'.♦ '. .^*i^^5r;,«e5i«wr-- r m t effing, in rounding the north-east point of the continent of America ; whose latitude has not been ascertained, but which, if a conjecture may be hazarded, from what is known of the northern coast of that continent, may perliaps be found in or about the 72nd degree of latitude.' ' In the event of his being able to succeed in rounding this point, and finding the sea open,' he is instructed • carefully to avoid coming near the coasts where he would be most likely to be impeded by fi,ved or footing ice ; but, keeping well to the northward, and in deep water, to make the best of his way to Behring's Strait/ After these expeditions had sailed, two more articles appeared on the question of this north-west passage ; one in the Quarterly Review, No. 36, for June, 1818, in favor of its accomplishment of course; and the other in the Edinburgh, No. 69, for the same month, quite as full of that * scepticism,' which its more or- thodox opponent approves of— not in < matters of reli- gion' — but of * science, which, by provoking inquiry, frequently leads to the detection of error, and always stimulates to the discovery of truth.' ^ As some passages in both these rival reviews appear to have occasioned a more than common quantum of this laudable scepticism on the mind of Phoca, he was induced to publish another letter in the Naval Chro- nicles for September and October, before the two ex- peditions returned \ being * An Attempt to prove, from Circumstances and Facts slated by Philosophers, that a Passage for Ships from the ' Polar Basin ' to the Pa- cific through Behring's Strait, must be impracticable.' % ■ " Mr. Editor, Hull, 5th Sept. 1818. " Locke tells us, that ' false or doubtful positions, relied upon as unquestionable mp.:;ims, keep those in jw- the dark fron different whi( per of mind t and disposes it has done i only direct a " In exam as well as o requisite ; ai that prejudi( arc so liable " On a su' last few mo notice and serious cons cessary to h sion — I mea arctic regioi strongly ass set of phih denied by i judgment, e in favor of think the m posed, witb arguments conjectures which appe " The gn sophers are Strait * is iz seal'or'th seeming to of the expe ■ lfc» fl l 45 tlie dark from triith who build on them ; and to be in- different which of two opinions is true, is the right tern* per of mind that preserves it from being imposed upon, and disposes it to examine with that indifferency until it has done its best to ftnd out the truth ; and this is the only direct and safe way to it.' " In examining subjects of science and phdosophy, as well as of religion, this indifferency is particularly requisite ; and the mind should be entirely divested of that prejudice by which individuals as well as parties are so liable to be misled. -^^ " On a subject of the former kind, which has for the last few months attracted so much of the superEciaJ notice and curiosity of the public, and perhaps the serious consideration of a few, it seems peculiarly ne- cessary to have the mind thus prepared for its discus- sion— I mean the pending expeditions to explore the arctic regions. Some points connected with them, so strongly asserted, and attempted to be proved by one set of philosophers, and as strongly opposed, and denied by another, seem calculated to distract the judgment, even of those who happen to be prejudiced in favor of either party, without convincing any who think the matter worthy of their attention, and feel dis- posed, without bias, to inquire into the solidity of the ar-uments used by either, to prove their assertions and conjectures well founded, or stated facts to be true, which appear discordant. "The grand and chief point, on which these philo- sophers are at issue, appears to be. whether Behring's Strait * is merely the entrance of a vast bay or inland sea '' or • the separation of two vast continents V Each seeming to rest their opinion, as to the success or failure of the expeditions, mainly on that question. * m m mi- 4(i ** Captain Bumey, in his Memoir, proposed to show, that ' there does not exist satisfactory proof of such reparation ; and, secondly, from peculiarities which have been observed, there is cause to suppose the fact to be otherwise; that is to say, that Asia and America are contioruous, and parts of one and the same continent.' " As it is clear that we have no positive proof of the iunction of the two continents of Asia and America, let us examine the nature of those peculiarities from which Captain Burney concludes * there is cattse to sup- pose them contiguous, and one and the same.' " These peculiarities were — First, 'The sudden dis- appearance of tides, on arriving in Behring's Strait. — Secondly, There was little or no current, nor could it lie perceived that tLe tide either rose or fell. — ^Thirdly, That to the northward of the latitude of 68° 46' N. the soundings were observed to decrease.' It will then be proper to inquire how far these ' peculiarities ' authorise the supposition ? And lastly, whether the very same pe^ culiarities could exist i/the continents do not join ? * " The philosophers of the north argue in support of the supposition, chiefly on the grounds stated by Cap- tain Burney. Those of the south not only seem to dis- credit the existence of the ' peculiarities ' observed per- sonally by Captain Bumey himself, but on an hypothe- sis of their own, as well as from some of the facts stated by that officer, they endeavor to establish their opinion of the sepa-ation of the two continents, and the exist- ence of a perpetual current from the Pacific through Behring's Strait into the Arctic Sea ; finally declaring, that they 'have less apprehension of the passage through Behring's Strait being closed against our navigators (except by ice) than of the difficulties they may have to encounter on this side of America^ " On the 81 larly what is posed one thi Quarterly Re observations i questions, th though, rega Review for , currents, am offer a few n " The phil it worth whii that ' the nol arch cannot tion of the se If Behring's bay or inlan well by way tain, even w their progres to pass throu " But eve ratbn of tv« important qi impediment a^ impassabl'. occasion so from the pei Captain Bur Asia and A the same co " Feeling sitions of ei of the jumcti 47 " On the subject of currents in general, and particvi- larly w^hat is called the gulf-stream, as well as this sup- posed one through Behring's Strait, as asserted in the Quarterly Review before, I was induced to make a few observations on the 27th of February last. On these questions, therefore, I do not mean to enlarge here; though, regarding what has been further said, in that Review for June last, on the extraordinary effects of currents, and their assumed direction, I may perhaps offer a few remarks as I go along. " The philosophers of the north have not considered it worth while to notice these points, and only observe, that ' the notion of a stream rushing beneath a frozen arch cannot be admitted.' But to return to the ques- tion of the separation or junction of Asia and America. If Behring's Strait is * merely the entrance of a vast bay or inland sea, ' the failure of both expeditions, as well by way of the Pole as Davis's Strait, must be cer- tain, even were they to surmount all the difl&culties in their progress by either route ; the object of both being to pass through that Strait into the Pacific. " But even if BeNring's Strait should be * the sepa- ration of two great continents,' a further and no less important question arises, viz. Whether another local impediment does not exist, which must, of necessity, be as impassable as land, at least for ships, and therefore occasion some, if not all, of those very pecaliaritiea, from the personal observation and knowledge of which. Captain Bumey concludes 'there is cause to supposeihBt Asia and America are contiguous, and parts of one and the same continent.' " Feeling no bias towards the opinions or the suppo- sitions of either party, and regardless ofthe fact, either of the junction or separation of Asia and America, my 48 object in this examination is to attempt to prove, asf ar as mown facts, and other circumstances, stated and agreed in by both parties, can prove, (hat the passage fox ships from the Polar Sea into the Pacific, by way of Behring's Strait, is as impracticable as if Asia and Ame- rica xvcre known to join. Though we are perhaps war- ranted in giving full credit to the account Captain Bur- ney gives of the 'pecu'iiarities' he observed ; yet it may be as well to examine the facts stated in Cook s and Clarke's Voyages, in support of his evidence ; as well as some of the circumstances mentioned in the Quar- terly Review in refutation of it. " The first fact noticed by Captain Burney is ' the sudden disappearance of tides on arriving in Behring's Strait ;' and the second, that 'there was little or no cur- rent ; nor could it be perceived that the tide either rose or fell; ■ " In Clarke's Voyage it is stated, that * on Thurp,day the 1st of July, Mr. Bligh, the master of the Resolution, having moored a small keg with the deep sea \<:aA in 75 fathoms water (off Thadeus' Noss), found that the ship made a course north by east about half a mile an hour.' This was attributed by him ' to the effect of the southerly swell, rather than to any current.' " In Cook's Voyage, when at anchor in fathoms, ■with the Peaked Mountain over Cape Prince of Wales, bearing S. 10° W., on the 1 Ith of August, it is remark- ed, ' We perceived //V^/e or wo currcw/, nor did we perceive that the tide either rose or fell.' Again, on the 21st of August, in lat. 69° 30', it is said, ' During the afternoon we had but little wind, and the master was sent in a boat to observe whether there was any current, but he found none.' In Clarke's Voyage, when off Cape East, on the 5th of July, it is remarked, * We were now con- vinced of Htrong currt sioned an ei latitude at ii last year, W( the 12th of J on the Asiat current, we half a mile local circun count of the but little tid westward; i coast of Asii of the Strait, being little o there was { at the cntra: the oth of J serve the te idea of a * velocity.' " The wr June last, c because the Islands (at of seven or carried to t conceivmg nortli^rn Pj found to be the stronges passage for th^t strftit ii Data. 40 the vinced of our having been under the influence of a Htrong current, setting to the north, which had occa- sioned nn error of 20 miles in the computation of the latitude at noon. At the time of our passing the Strait last year, we experienced a similar effect.' On Monday, the 12th of July, in latitude 60" 40* N. within the Stnit, on the Asiatic side, it is remarked :— ' On examining the current, we found it to set north-west, at the rate of half a mile an hour.' And finally, in describing the local circumstances generally, within the Strait, the ac- count of the tide or current is thus given : — • We found but little tide or current, and that little came from the westward i' that is, athwart the Strait's mouth, from the coast of Asia towards America, and neither into nor out of the Strait. These extracts all prove the fact of there being little or no current within the Strait ; and also, that there was generally very little more outside, or even at the entrance. For the set of 20 miles observed on the oth of July, though called * strong,' can barely de- serve the term ; at all events, it does not convey the idea of a • violent current rushing in with the greatest velocity.' *' The writer of an article in the Quarterly Review for June last, concludes, (and hypothetically enough) that because there were tides so strong near the Aleutiaa Islands (at least 5 or 000 miles off) a^ to run at the rate of seven or eight ro'es an hour, the water * must be carried to the nc. ward by these extraordinary tides ;* coaceivmg that these tides, and the great body of the uortli^rn Pacific, which he asserts ' all navigators have found to be in motipo towards Behring's Strait, ' ' are the strongest indic9.tions of an open and uninterrupted passage for water (uninterrupted except by ice) through th^t strfiit into the Polar sea ; and a decisive argument Data. , -O i^^-s^BfWTBsaftrs?' 5a against any such bay as Captain Burney has imagined to be formed by the junction of the two continents of Asia and America.' "That these strong tides, observed among the Aleutian Islands, extend to the northward as far as fiehring's Strait, seems to be only an imaginary assumption, and till facts have proved that such currents are known to exist, 'rushing in to the funnel-shaped mouth of the Strait,' it is unnecessary to reply to the question, 'What becomes of all the water carried to the north- ward by these extraordinary tides V If, indeed, such currents were known to exist, * rushing in to the funnel- shaped mouth of the Strait,' they would doubtless oc- casion a rise and fall, no less remarkable than that which takes place * in the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of Tonquin.' But facts and experiments having shown that there is little or no current either within, or out- side, near the entrance of Behring's Strait; consequently, no such effects are produced on the waters within the Strait, for this simple reason — the want of such a cause, as effects the • remarkable rise and fall in tbe Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of Tonquin.' ' *' It is therefore needless to have recourse to the chi- merical supposition of the existence of a communication, under the 'ice, between the Pacific and the Polar sea, in order to account for the well authenticated fdcU of there being little rise or fall of water within Behring's Strait. *'•:>' ^'-^-'HM^ " Besides, if the temperature of the water in the Pa- cific be (as I presume we may conclude it to be) warmer than that within Behring's Strait, it must of course add necessity flow in (if it does at all) at the surface, as 1 observed before when treating this subject last Feb- ruary ; and the philosophers of the north have told us since, in the water gro'w floats incun heat, with e « Thougl ficient to { from the Ps the surface underneath philosophei serting so the great b( towards B that directii and those They acki as the obse been few, be local ai argument less equivo Pacific toi be indispm drift wood Aleutian 1 other trees of Asiu ai southerly the same t mentioned ing bodies the true c; soft, and s " Nothi iinlriWtliJ since, in the Edinburgii Review for June last, that ' when water grows warmer it expands, and consequently floats incumbent, communicating afterwards its surplus heat, with extreme slowness, to the mass below/ " Though such sage authority would alone seem suf- ficient to prove that any little current there may be from the Pacific into Behring's Strait, must flow in at the surface (as what little there was did \nfact\ and not underneath, it is, however, as well to try how far the philosophers of the south are borne out hy facts, in as- serting so positively that ' all navigators have found the great body of the northern Pacific to be in motion towards Behring's Strait ; and that a current sets in that direction along the coast of America on one side, and those of Japan 'and Kamtschatka on the other.' They acknowledge, however, at the same time, * that as the observations of the currents on these coasts helve been few, and the currents observed might therefore be local and partial, they mean not wholly to rest theii" ai^ument on them, but to have recourse to other aiid less equivocal proofs, for the general movement of the Pacific towards the north' They consider this * to be indisputably proved by the immense quantities of drift wood, thrown up on the southern shores of the Aleutian Islands, consisting of fir, larch, aspen, aitd other trees, the common produce of the two continents of Asiu and America.' But as a proof of the more southerly parts of the northern Pacific partaking of the same motion, they present to notice ' a coxxoxa fact mentioned by Stephen Glottof^ that among other float- ing bodies thrown up on the Aleutian Islands, is found the true camphor wood, and another sort, very white, soft, and sweet-scented.' " Nothing is more possible than that this camphor -ferj^wo^*^ -^ T-'fT^f"^"*'"^^^'^'^ . . i / im-^ v*' - *'• t*2 wood might come from the Asiatic islands, or some parts of tropical Asia ; for the south-west monsoon in the Indian and China seas is known to blow from May till October, through the sea of Japan, and even up to the head of the Gulf of Tartary, occasioning strong currents to the northward, and which might carry the camphor wood through the sea of Japan, the Straits of Matsmai, or Perouse, and among the Kurile Islands ; from whence a south-west swell, with gales of wind from that quarter and the southward, might drift it upon the Aleutian Islands, without asiuming a conti- nuation of the general current so much further to the northward. "Perouse, after passing Tobaco Xima, about the end of April, says, * a strong current to the northward was experienced.' On the 5th of April, near the Island of Kumi, he found * the current set to the north- ward with extreme rapidity.' When at anchor in the bay of Ternai, on the 22d of June, he observes, 'The ebb and flood have no effect upon the direction of the current half a league in the offing :, what we felt at our anchorage varied only from south-west to south-east, and its greatest velocity was only a mile an hour.' The wind was constantly from the southward during his stay in the Gulf of Tartary, till the 2d of August, when he sailed ftom the Bay de Castries. 'I ♦^Aftw passing the strait which bears his name, we find no mention of any current to the northward ; but, OB the contrary, on the lOth of August, when off Cape Grillon, he says, ' We found ourselves a little to the south- ward of our reckoning, but only ten miles.' When near the Kurile Islands, he remarks, • Our observations on the 23d informed us that we had been drifted to the westward, forty miles in two days ; and we ascertained the accurac.) the same po ing them exe longitude o been carriec passage froi mention is va, probable th( oithis navig during the a (except in tfa 4,7' N. And we shall fii: It is thus d time when v Point, the c to the N.E approach tc tion, but wa hour. As \ more moder 3d, at the d at the rate < the two foil and at I2( south-east, a half an 1 the N.E., a at which tin " It may does not ge time of the Pacific, tha babiHty not 53 the accuracy of these observations on the i4th, by setting the same points we had observed on the 2l8t, and find- ing them exactly where they ought to be, according to our longitude observed.' On the 81st he found he had been carried • ten leagues to the south-east.* On his passage from the Kurile Islands to Kamtschatka, iw mention is made of a current to the northward. It appears probable therefore, from the facts stated in the voyage of this navigator, that the northerly set of current, even during the south-west monsoon, does not extend further (except in the Gulf of Tartary) than the latitude of 46" or 47° N. And by referring to Clarke's or King's Voyage; we shall find how it set on the east side of Nipon. It is thus described : • On the 1st of November, at a time when we were 13 leagues to the eastward of White Point, the current set at the rate of three miles an hour to the N.E. by N. On the 2d, as we made a nearer approach to the shore, it continued in a similar direc- tion, but was augmented in its rapidity to^ve miles aa hour. As we »^^eded from the coast, it again became more modera^ •.; inclined towards the east. Oil the 3d, at the dis v« r of 60 leagues from the shore, it set at the rate of three miles an hour to the E.N.E. On the two following days, it turned to the southward, and at 120 leagues from the coast its direction was south-east, and its rate did not exceed one mile and a half an hour. It again on the 6th and 7th shifted to the N.E., and its force diminished gradually till the 8th, at which time we could no longer perceive any current.'^ " It may therefore be said that the north-east current does not generally set further to the northward, at any time of the year, in the western part of the northern Pacific, than the parallels of 46" or 47° ; and in all pro- babiHty not so far. ^ ' ■ I 54 "On the 2d of July, Captain Krusenstern, when in latitude 34° 3' N. and longitude 190° 8' W. says : ' By observation^ we found we had been carried by a current 37 miles to the N.E. by N. in the space of three days. Qn the 2»th of June, the last day on which wo had observed, the current ran 13 miles to the south.' " In this part of the Pacific the current may fairly be supposed to be strongest in its northerly direction at this season ; because the sun being in that hemisphere, all the winds in the southern Pacific blow from the S.E. ; those in the western and north-western part of that ocean, rounding gradually, in the vicinity of New Hol- land and New Guinea, to the southward, and S.W. north of the Equator, whe-e they are incorporated with the S.W. monsoon, which then blows from the Indian and China seas. Yet, even here, the current ran at the rate of a little more than half a mile an hour ; and indeed, as it set * to the southy with a greater velocity, three days before, it may be termed variable, rather than * perpetual.' *« From the month of September or October, till the month of March, * the great body of water of the north- em Pacific' appears still less likely to be ' in a state of perpetual motion towards Behring's Strait ;' at least all that part of it which is to the northward of 20° N. ; be- Cvtuse winds more from the N.W. than the S.W. prevail geiieraljy quite across the ocean, as far at least to the southward as that latitude. The sun being then in the southern hemisphere, the N.E. trade wind is rarely steady beyond the latitude of 15° or 13° N. in the neighbourhood and westward of the Sandwich Is- lands ; and, eastward of them, perhaps not so far. In the north-west part of the Pacific the winds in these months (from October till March) are all from tlie N.E., generally fi coast of N northerly, a to the latitu soon in this to meridian Madagasca " Navigai depend gei winds by tfc in this ocea] chiefly so t< likewise mu ward or soi to the westv but especial Cancer; an mony of na " After P( October, in lei of 37J° W ced strong ^ ' the birds aj bytheviolei chatka we time the se lashed to tl ton of wate " Nothin and a heav or other fl Aleutian I supposing in that dire -ii.-,i« r.A* 55 generally from about the latitude of 40° N. and the coast of Nipon, down to the Equator^ and the more northerly, as it is approached. And from the Equator to the latitude of at least 16° or 18° S. the N.W. mon- soon in this rainy season there prevails almost as steady to meridians beyond the Society Islands, as it does from Madagascar to Endeavor Strait. " Navigators know (or ought to know) that currents depend generally on the direction given to prevalent winds by the power of the sun ; therefore, as the winds in this ocean are locally variable and periodical, though chiefly so to the southward of the Equator, the currents likewise must be periodically changeable, to the north- ward or southward, though having a general tendency to the westward, on both sides the Equator, at all times ; but especially north of the Line, as far as the tropic of Cancer ; and such we find to be the case from the testi* mony of navigators. *' ** After Perouse quitted Kamtschatka, in the month of October, in running to the eastward, in about the paral- lel of 37i° N. as far as the longitude of 180°, he experien- ced strong gales from the south-westward ; and be says, ' the birds appeared to me to come from the south, driven by the violence of the wind ;' and, ' since quitting Kamts- chatka we had constantly a very heavy swell : at one time the sea washed away our jolly-boat, which was lashed to the gangway, and we shipped more than a ton of water.' *' Nothing is more possible than that winds like these and a heavy swell would drive the ' camphor wood,* or other floating bodies, upon or even beyond the Aleutian Islands, towards Behring's Strait ; without supposing the existence of a ' perpetual current,' so far in that direction, to account for the fact. And though it 4 1 4i 56 '4- is very possible that all the drift wood spoken of ' does Dot stop at the Aleutian Islands,' and that some, taken up by Captain Clarke in Behring's Strait, might have come from thenqe; yet, as the Quarterly Reviewers * have not been able to trace the * camplior wood' beyond the Aleutian Islands,' it is a circumstance rather against, than in favor of, their hypothesis. For as the camphor wood was a floating body too, as well as the other drift wood, and the famous ♦ log of makoganif,' which they traced so marvellous a distance ; whatever carried the one, ipight have carried the other. It is therefore just as possible, that these trees of various kinds, the productions ' of North America, and north, as well as tropical Asia,' may be driven by tides, winds, and swell together, in ail directions, among the Aleu- tian Islands, and to the south, as well as to the north. And this in fact we find to be the case; for both Cap- tains Cook and Clarke make mention of ' pine trees being driven upon the Sandwich Islands,' which in all probability came from places either to the N.E. or N.W. of those islands. " Captain lisianski ' found lying on the beach' of the small island which bears his name, ' several large trunks of trees, the largest of which measured twenty- one feet in circumference at the root ; and he says, ' they were like the red-wood tree, that grows on the banks of the Columbia river ' in America ;' and if they ever greW there, they must have had the assistance of a southerly and westerly current to enable them to reach Lisianski Island, in defiance of the northerly one, which the Quarterly Reviewers suppose must have carried the 'log of mahogany' all the way from the Isthmus of Darien, all along the coast of America, 'through Behring's Strait, and thence along the north coast of America, a Lisianski, on the 16 uorth-wesi we had th which wai southward, great near Islands it passage is the currei towards t Ladrone 1 "TheQ ing in the own creatii year's drift the ice inl that ' the i tion to the Captain ( Captain C N.' Nov prove any show — na was fount may inde( Cook fel tain Clar dissolved ceding w the ice h{ with res Datm. ■ *i- liXAi^-..- ■»»<». . ^ igife - America, and down ' Baffin's Sea' to Disco. But indeed Lisianski, when he passed between Aguian and Tinian on the 16th of November, says, 'From Sitca (on the north-west coast of America) to the Ladrone Islands we had the currents from N.E. to the S.W. The last, which was the strongest, carried us 140 miles to the southward, and 200 to the westward. Its force was very great near the tropic, but on approaching the Marian Islands it shifted to the westward.' Though this passage is oddly worded, yet it seems to imply that the currents were found to set from the north-east towards the south-west, all the w • from Sitca to the Ladrone Islands. " The Quarteriy Reviewers, however, stedfastly believ- ing in the existfence of this perpetual current, of their own creation, infer that * logs and trees of the preceding year'sdrift had passed through the Strait (Behring's) with the ice into the * Polar basin,' and attempt to prove that • the ice, like the drift wood, has a progressive mo- tion to the northward ;' because on the 17th of August Captain Cook fell in with it in !at. 70' 41' N. and Captain Clarke, ' on the 6th of July following, in 67' N.' Now, as far as I can see, this does not seem to prove any thing more than what the facts themselves show— namely, the different situations in which the ice was found at two distinct periods in different years. It may indeed be presumetl, perhaps, that, because Captain Cook fell in with it a month later one year than Cap- tain Clarke did another, the sun's power might have dissolved it further to the northward ; or, that the pre- ceding winter might have been less severe, and therefore the ice had not extended so far to the southward. But with respect to the movement of the ice Uself, to the ■,^6=-™^"^ -^ "■- ' 58 northward in either year, the words of both Captains Cook and Clarke are expressly to the contrary. "Captain Cook says, on the 2l8t of August, 'We were at present in lat. 69° 32' N. and in longitude 195" 48' E., and as the mrin ice w^s not far from us, it is evident that it noivcovered a part of the sea, which a few days before had been free from it, and that it extended further towards the south than where we first fell in with it; Certainly it did, no less than sixty-nine miles ; for he fell in with it in lat. 70° 41' N. "' Captain Clarke says, in July the following year, • We had traversed this sea since the 8th of the month, and that, in lines parallel with the course we now steered ; the first time, we were unable to penetrate so far north as the second, by eight leagues, and that this last time a compact body of ice had been observed, commonly five leagues further south than btjfore. This clearly proves that the vast and solid fields which we saw were decreasing or moveable.' Again, in the year 1778, * we did not discover the ice till we advanced to the latitude of 70°, on the 17th of August, and we then found it in compact bodies, -which extended as far as the eye could reach ; and f which the whole or a part was moveable, since, by it. lifting down upon us (from the northward), we narro^^ly escaped being hemmed in between it and the land.' * On the 26th of August, in lat. 6})i° N. and longitude 184° E., we were ob- structed by it in such quantities, that we could not pass either to the north or west. In our second attempt we never had an opportunity of approaching the continent of Asia higher than 67° of latitude, nor that of America in any part, except a few leagues between the latitude 68° and 68° 20' N. But in the last attempt, we were obstructed by it three degrees further to the southward,' «» From th did find the the south wi vere among was, that it could not b nearest the it further to ward), it r summer mo, superficies, to the nortl which I shi cide for the probable, ai impossible : little suspe ing to our fields or si part of thi formed anc monly last rays is ad duced in t spring ! !' have been months oi peded by ' l • all thus a: have to W( And, as tl • the sea i must be oj no dl «0 " From these passages it is clear, that these navigators did find the mcrveable ice, in fact, further nd further to the southward, from some cause, during the time they vere among it, ir. hoth years. Their judgment on the spot was, that it moved in that direaion, and in this they could not be mistaken with respect to the ic? they saw nearest the ships ; for it compelled them to recede from it further to the southward. J/ it did not move (south- ward), it must have extended itself, even in these sumnter months, by augmentation, both in quantity and superficies, from some (perhaps fixed) mass beyond it to the northward, which they could not see ; a point which I shall leave the philosophers of the south to de- cide for themselves, but which 1 believe to be most im- probable, and those of the north will of course pronounce impossible : for they have just told us, whatl am sure 1 little suspected, and I dare say will be no less surpris- ing to our arctic navigators when they leturn, that * the fields or shoals of saline ice which during the greater part of the year cover the arctic seas, are annually formed and destroyed, and during the thaw, which com- monly lasts about three months, the heat of the solar rays is adequate to the dissolution of all the ice pro- duced in the course of tlie autumn, the winter, and the spring!!' So that as our polar navigators fortunately have been in those arctic seas during these ♦ thre** months of thaw,' they will not have been at all im peded by ' the fields or shoals of saline ice,' as they are ' all thus annually formed and destroyed ;' but will merely have to work Tom Cox's Traverse among the icebergs. And, as the philosophers of the south inform us, that • the sea through which these massy mountains float, must be open, and where they can float a ship will find no difficulty la sailing,' they must have, made great 'U li. ■i +*x*-*'r-5"."''""^"' 00 progress by this time in a navigation thus cleared so completely of all obstruction (at least from tee), which the ignorant and unlearned among us have foolishly supposed to be the most formidable bar to their success. " Of course, too, none of the ice seen by Captain Cook and his successors (which the Quarterly Reviewers term ' an impenetrable barrier') could have been of this * saline' quality ; for when they quitted it, the ice re- mained nearly in the same state as they found it, undis- solved, and apparently undiminished, at the end of the summer. What Captain Cook saw on the 17th of August, in lat. 70" 41' N. is described by him as • per- fectly impenetrable,' and extended from W. by S. to £. by N. as far as the eye could reach. And on the 27th, we are told that ' there being little wind. Captain Cook went in the boat to examine tl s state of the ice. He found it was as impracticable for ships to pass it as if it had been so many rocks. He particularly remarked that it was all pure transparent ice except the upper surface, v.hich was rather porous. It seemed to be composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed at sea. None of the productions of the land were found incorporated or mixed with it. The Captain judged that the larger pieces reached thirty feet, or more, under water. He thought it highly improbable that this ice could have been the production of the preceding win- ter ; he was rather inclined to suppose it to have been the production of many winters. It was equally im- probable, in his opinion, that the litiie that now remained of the summer could destroy even the tenth part of what remained of this great mass, for the sun had already ex- erted upon it the full force and influence of his rays. The sun indeed, according to his judgment, contributes very little towards reducing these enormous masses : for thougli tb considerable ^ a few hours a< several succe Captain Cook same opinion the philosophi to be true, w senses and ex the south say, entertained ai Strait, into th that he did er evident, on th have entertai passage. " Having < perpetual mo cific towards and Kamstcl its general dii It has been Strait, Capta no current.' tain Cook ol eastward, ai hours often two o'clock ward, and t both strongc there was a ther to the 'the tide the southw for tliougli that luminary is aboTc the horizon for a considerable while, it seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and frequently is not seen for several successive days." And I dare say if poor Captain Cook were alive now, he would still be ot the same opinion. Neither would it be in the power of the philosophers of the north to make him believe «Aa< to be true, which is contrary to the evidence of his genses and experience on the spot. And yet those of the south say, ' it does not appear that Captain Cook entertained any doubt of a passage through Behnngs Strait, into the Arctic sea.' 1 will not venture to say that he did entertain doubt, but I will say that it appears evident, on the face of these extracts, that he could not have entertained the least hope of finding any such passage. . . " Having thus far disposed of the question of a perpetual motion of the great body of the northern Pa- cific towards Behring'8 Strait,' 'along the coasts of Japan and Kamstchatka,' let us next see what facts say to its general direction aiong the west coast of America.-- It has been shown that, at the entrance of Behrings Strait, Captains Cook and Clarke found 'very little or no current.' When at anchor near Sledge Island, Cap- tain Cook observes, 'the tide of flood came from the eastward, and set to the westward, till between the hours of ten and eleven o'clock ; from which time, till two o'clock in the morning, the stream set to the east- ward, and the. water fell three feet: the flood running both stronger and longer than the ebb, we concluded there was a westerly current, beside^ the tide.' fur- ther to the southward, off Shoalness, he remarks that •the tide of flood set to the north, and the ebb to the southward,' *and among the Aleutian Islands i I 1^^ ■f-- ■'■^fi^'u^--^. -^T^-. -i -.'■ tlie tides were strong and regular.' Thd general set was W.S.W., and E.N.E., clear of them ; and various among them, according to the directions of the chaii< nels. Subsequent navigators appear to have found them the same, not only theis, but every where else (though setting in directions according to localities), all along the N.W. coast of America, /row these Islands as far down to the southward as 40° of latitude. Nor do any of the navigators on that coast (as far I find) mention the prevalence of a northerly current at any time of the year. " On the 11th of October, the day Captain Vancou- Ter sailed from Nootka Sound for Monterey, he says, * when in 100 fathoms water, by the lead when on the ground, the vessel seemed to lie as if at anchor.' So that there was no current at all here at that time, and little or none seems to have been observed all the way down to Monterey. After quitting that port ou the 2nd of December, he observes, on passing the Island of Guadaloupe on the 8th, 'The observation made on that and the preceding day exactly agreed with the ship's run by log.' On the 23rd of December, when in lat. 13° 60' N. and longitude 100° 55' W., Captain Vancouver says, 'During our passage thus far from Monterey, it did not appear that we had been much affected by currents ; the log and observations having agreed very nearly, and the difference between the lon- gitude by dead reckoning and that which I considered to be the true longitude, had not exceeded half a degree ; the dead reckoning having been in general to the east- ward of the truth. The wind in the north-western quarter continued to blow a steady breeze, and as we advanced to the south-eastward increased in force.' * From this position, the current set towards the south and east, and casioned no di of Panama), p from thence to them, the cunr and trf the wei pany Captain try to discovei jtosed existence their extraordi which the Go also a tree of reached the s' coast of Amc they got there couver's accoi coast are to have gone th reached Beh that these log nama by the and afterwar< along the co£ it seems mu< these very lo| somehow or clear that th to, or perhaj: is not impos they might hi of Labrador, through som< and so acre also, as well and east, and sometimeB to the northward of east (oc- casioned no doubt by an indraught towards the Gulf of Panama), particularly near the Island of Cocos, and from thence to the Galepagos Islands ; but after passing them, the currents shifted, and ran to the southward, and trf the westward. 1 have been tempted to accom- pany Captain Vancouver hus far down the coast, to try to discover, if possible, t' current on whose sup- posed existence the philosophers of the south ground, their extraordinary conclusion that the mahogany plank which the Governor of Disco's table was made of, and also a tree of logwood found there, • could only have reached the spot on which they were found, along the coast of America from the Isthmus of Danen.' How they got there, God only knows ! But if Captam Van- couver's account of the currents he met with along that coast are to be credited, it is impossible they could have gone thither by the route supposed, or ever have reached Behring's Strait; even admitting it possible that these logs had been drifted from the Gulf of Pa- nama by the equatorial current, quite across the Pacific, and afterwards driven all the way up to the northward along the coasts of Nipon and Karatschatka. Indeed it seems much more possible, and probable too, that these very logs of mahogany found their way to Disco somehow or other from the Gulf of Mexico. It is very clear that the gulf-stream might have carried them up to, or perhaps beyond Newfoundland, from whence, it is not impossible that by other currents or local tides they might have got into eddies close in along the coast of Labrador, and even into Hudson's Bay, and out again through some of the openings furthest to the northward, and so across Davis's Strait to Disco. They migh*. also, as well as the other log of mahogany ' picked up ! i 'A t J _.j^_i^^_j.^(_-fii.Vit^f^S,-j^j~^^ . - ■* — ■r.-"P«^,?»*"Fa^V^;^ j^l « l , ■■■ , 11 ■ ..^. I ^I J. 'II ■ ■ ■ ■ ' l ' - i . l 'i. if Hi i .i 'i Hi", In 64 by Admiral Lewenorae,' have been driven from some part of the northern Atlantic, by southerly gales, and heavy seas. For, floating at the sftrface, they would not feel the influence there of the perpetual underflow trom the north, which brings the icebergs down to the south* ward, against the heaviest gales, because they are deeply immersed in it. And if thus driven near the S.W. part of Greenland, they might be carried by the eddy and regular tides which have been observed on the west side of it. « But even admitting the possibility of these logs entering Behring's Strait by the marvellous long route supposed, another obstacle perhaps lies in the way of our belief of their reaching Disco from thence. It is true, the philosophers of the south have cleared the tray for them at once, by assuming as a fact without sufficient evidence, that Davis's Strait is open to the northward because it has been stated that ' a perpetual current runs there to the southward ; sometimes with a velocity of four or even of five miles an hour.' This may be so: but I apprehend that well-established fact and ex- periment will prove this statement not to be quite corrects Nor will any seamen who know what a current of five knots is, believe that such a current can exist where whale ships can keep on their fishing ground for weeks toge- ther, without the least difficulty. But, as I observed before on this subject last February, it is highly pro- bable, that either from the interruption of lands^ or shoals, between Greenland and America, a compara- tively small quantity of current passes from the ' Polar basin,' through Davis'f Strait, and that much of the ice, as well as the current, may have Hudson's Bay for its origin. • ** I shall only add here, what the philosophers of the north say land to the last voyag< shut all al no passage is for the si leaving the having reac " The 3ci was, that * t of soft oaze bottom tow near either s few shells a "With re observe, tha experience < sider a bott( being swept which the si be stony, ss acquainted ^ of the most just now, is entire butto though tidei knots an ho "The 4t Burne/^ anc soundings m beyond the viewers hav( perhaps not ray apprehei Data. 1 some es, and Lild not w tVora I south* ley are ear the by the ■ved CD se logs g route be way J. It is red the without I to the erpetual 9 with a his may and ex- ! corrects t of five re whale ks toge- jbserved hly pro- \andst or lompara- e * Polar ti of the } Bay for »rs of the north say to Davis's Strait being open, or closed by land to the north. They are of opinion that ' Baffin's last voyage showed that Davis's Strait is absolutely shut all along the north side ; and proved that either no passage exists on its western coast, or none which is for the shortest time of the year practicable ;' thus leaving the poor * log of mahogany*" no chance of having reached Disco that way, from Behring's Strait. " The 3d peculiarity mentioned by Captain. Bumey was, that ' the bottom not being swept by stf earns, was of soft oaze ;' and in Clarke's Voyage we read, that * the bottom towards the middle was of soft slimy mucj, ; and near either shore, a brownish sand in'?rmixed with a few shells and small fragments of bones.' " With regard to this fact, it is however sufficient to observe, that perhaps few seamen who have had much experience of tides and currents in soundings, will con- sider a bottom of oaze or slime as any proof of its not being swept by streams ; or admit that a bottom, over which the strongest tide or current runs, must therefore be stony, sandy, or gravelly ; for they cannot but be acquainted with many examples to the contrary. One of the most remarkable that occurs to my recollection just now, is the Gulf of Martaban ; in which the almost entire bottom is composed of the softest slimy mud, though tides at ihe springs run at the rate of 7 or 8 knots an hour. . , "The 4tfa and last peculiarity noticed by Captain Burnejf^ and perhaps the strongest of all, is, that ' the soundings were observed to decrease to the northward beyond the latitude of 68° 45' N.' The Quarterly Re- viewers have endeavored to prove the contrary, though perhaps not satisfactorily ; at least not according to ray apprehension of Captain Bumey's meaning. Both 'T^i Data. I P -S^^^'t-"™,^?'^** .»l^l^ 66 he and they must be near the truth, as it lies some* nt'here between them, in the small space of 12 feet only. The fact is, the bottom is not very uneven where the soundings vary only a fathom or two in as many leagues ; and in this place they were certainly very regular. "When Captain Burney says, that 'in steering to the westward, they did not find the depth to increase,' he seems clearly to mean, when at a considerable dis- tance from the land, towards mid>channel. And when Captain Cook ' states distinctly,' that in approaching the American coast ' the water shoaled gradually ;' and when he was obliged to anchor in 6 fathoms, it was found that the water shoaled gradually towards the land, ' he as clearly alludes to soundings very near the land of America. And again, when in 6 fathoms, he says, ' as we advanced to the westward the sound- ings deepened,' (as of course they must to mid«*' '• ':•*'" 69 and America, where there perhaps woj/ be • valleys and sttep shores,' it may be presumed that icebergs must be produced there also, as well as at New Siberia, in Baffin's Bay, and on the west side of Greenland. And as the remarkable fact, stated by one party, that a// the ice brought by the S.VV. current round Spitzbergen is field ice, is not denied by the other, (for indeed they say that icebergs are seen floating ow/y in Davis's Strait,) a ques- tion arises ; viz. If it may be allowed probable, or even possible, on these grounds, that icebergs may also be formed on some parts of the lands extending from Nova Zembla eastward to Greenland, pray what be- comes of them, if they cannot pass through Davis's Strait, and be not brought by the south-west current round Spitzbergen, and be very seldom met with m the eastern Greenland sea ? " Not being composed of that saline ice, which we are told ' is annually formed and destroyed,' they must remain, and drive about in all directions, as long as they h^ve sufficient depth of water to float in, not till they 'are divided, scattered and dissipated,' as * the shoals of ice in the Arctic seas commonly are, before the end of June, nor till they are dissolved. For one party tells * how little the influence of an Arctic summer is, even, on fields of ice, perpetually surrounded as they are by a freezing atmosphere created by themselves.' On their hypothesis therefore it is evident, that as part of these immense masses must remain at the end of the summer, to that part the ensuing winter must add something. When speaking on this subject on a former occasion, I supposed it probable that the process of melting and freezing may be going on in the Arctic re- gions on the same body of ice (if of a magnitude to be Sufficiently immersed) at the same time; and perhaps S * ■ in winter, as well as in summer, owing to the increasing temperature of the water from the surface downwards in proportion (perhaps) to its depth. The philosophers of the north have since ' demonstrated that the Polar seas are always ready, under the action of any frosty wind, to suffer congelation; and though the annual variations of the weathet are in these seas expended on the superficial waters, without disturbing the vast abyss below ;' yet as the water drawn up from a con- siderable depth is wanner, within the Arctic circle than what lies on the surface, the floating ice, accordingly, begins to melt ' generally on the under side, from the slow communication of the heat sent upwards.' Though we are told, * that before the end of June the shoals of ice in the Arctic seas are commonly divided, scattered and dissipated, and a few weeks are commonly sufficient to dissolve the floating ice ;' and though ' during the thaw, which commonly lasts about three months, the heat of the solar rays is adequate to the dissolution of all the ice produced in the course of the autumn, the winter and the spring!!' yet it is to be presumed that the icebergs are not meant to be included in this •all.' Indeed it is observed, that 'some of them are 2000 feet high ;' and, supposing the surface of the sea to be at 52°, (which I dare say it never was, nor ever will be in the Arctic seas,) an iceberg having only tiOO feet elevation would require one hundred and fifty days for its dissolution, and double that time, if the temperature of the sea it floats in should be at 42°. Even at this rate it cannot dissolve, for it would reciuire at least ten months. But being indeed informed further, that • within the Arctic circle, the surface of the ocean, being never much warmer than about the 27° of Fahrenheit's scale, is, in the decline of summer, soon cooled down to the limit at that even sue there. " And as ' by the slanti tremendous s gust,' the con dent, that ic< Polar basin,' warmer temp bulk, by the i to be dimini increase will may take the there be nol cient to floa for the temp* there, the eff greatly dimii be the same and hail, ad form, collect Cook terme( has been, ai bottom by it and immov( reached by as far as soi wards its n disruption, I it may pres front, biddii or the ragin; attempts of 71 to the limit at which congelation commences,' it seems that even such ah iceberg could never be dissolved there. " And as * in the space of a few weeks only, visited by the slanting and enfeebled rays, frost resumes its tremendous sway, and it begins to snow as early as Au- gust,' the conclusion (at least on such data) seems evi- dent, that icebergs even while they float within 'the Polar basin,' and can find no passage thence into a warmer temperature, are more likely to augment their bulk, by the effect of frost, snow, and hail above, than to be diminished below tbe surface of the sea. This increase will be much greater still on such icebergs as may take the ground, on the bank if there be one, but if there be not, in the shoal water (which is very insuflS- cient to float them) extending from Asia to America ; for the temperature of the water being of course colder there, the effect of dissolution under the surface will be greatly diminis-hed ; whilst the augmentation above will be the same as if it floated. Sp that every fall of snow and hail, adding to masses of ice thus situated, must form, collectively, one * impenetrable barrier,' as Captain Cook termed what he saw. A barrier that doubtless has been, and will remain there for ages, fixed to the bottom by its own inertia, extending probably compact and immoveable far to the northward of the parallel reached by Cook ; and perhaps rising in mountains, as far as soundings extend, and thence declining to- wards its margin, which may be subject to continual disruption, by the swell of the sea in deeper water: or, it may present to the north a rugged perpendicular front, bidding stern defiance to the roaring of the winds or the raging billows of the sea, and mocking the vain attempts of man to pass it. ^ . "^v. ' JgfJ . V# S t ^" »i >< «»^«»B»eyi«^S*aSyg>i^-''aa»M':^*lf ^ •,S«^*'f^-r"^P'*" ' 72 '• That there must exist such a barrier as this, inclos- ing an expanse to the northward of Behring's Strait (// there be no land there), appears to me to be little less than certain, and which must be kept still more compact, along its northern boundary, by the constant pressure . gainst it of the Polar stream from the north, which I have supposed on a former examination of this subject, and ^vhich therefore can find no egress from the Polar sea, down to the regions of equatorial heat, except to the eastward of Greenland and Spitzbergen. • " Another circumstance, amounting almost to a proof of the passage by Behring's Strait being closed up, even against fish of large size, much more against ships, is, that none of our navigators (at least as far as 1 know) have mentioned seeing a single whale within the Strait, where the water is not deep, and the ice, abundant. It of course does not follow, that because they sazv none, there were mt any ; yet if there had been any, it is more than probable that our navigators would have seen some of them during their stay there. And the philosophers of the south remark, • that whales are gene- rally found in those parts of the Arctic seas where ice most abounds, and where it has taken the ground on shores and banks.' They have also mentioned a ' cir- cumstance of whales struck with harpoons in the sea of Spitzbergen or in Davis's Strait, being found on the north-west coast of America !' They consider .this as affording an additional argument for a free communi- cation between the Atlantic and Pacific, by way of Behring's Strait. " Though I have endeavored to prove that an ex- panse to the northward of Behring's Strait is thus per- petually incloseid by a conglobatipn of icebergs, on the supposition of their formation o;i other lands surround- ing the Polai Davis's Strait! on the grounc none of these s sueh ice as C quality or kii even ice of I lands, must b equally ' imp tors saw was summer as tii Tliis fact sho winter, the ai nor even * di Therefore, tli evidently less autumn, the ^ must be (by wljoleof that I |)resume is i true, that mu( be partially t and being sul in gales of v move about i ward of the i " Much ol is said to be greatest part seemed to b( another plac lat. 70° 41' r the ice, whic to be at least Data. ^^fr^*1^;,""- 73 ing the Polar sea, as well as at New Siberia and in Davis's Straits ; yet even allowing that this supposition, on the ground it rests, is improbable, and admitting that mtie of these stupendous masses arc so formed, but only nuch ice as Captain Cook saw, whatever migiit be its quality or kind ; yet it seems to me no less clear, that even ice of that kind, collected as it is between two lunds, must by its annual augmentation have formed an equally ' impenetrable barrier : ' for what our naviga- tors saw was evidently as abundant at the close of each summer as they found it on their first arrival among it, Tliis fact shows that * ail the ice produced there in the winter, the autumn, and the spring, is not dissolved,' nor even * dissipated,' though * divided and scattered.' Therefore, the quantity dissolved each summer being evidently less, generally, than what is ' produced in the autumn, the winter, and the spring,' the consequence must be (by congelation at least) oxi iin.rease on the whole of that solid mass further to the northward, which I presume is immoveably fixed on the bottom. It is very true, that much of the ice along the southern margin may be partially dissolved by the rays of the summer sun ; and being subject to disruption by the motion of the sea, in gales of wind (from the southward), may therefore move about in an extent of many leagues to the south- ward of the main body, as our navigators found it did. " Much of the ice may be of that saline quality which is said to be ' annually formed and destroyed,' but the greatest part of what Cook saw was not ; for he says, * it seemed to be wholly composed of frozen snow.' In another place he says, on the 17th of August, when in lat. 70° 41' N. * We were at present close to the edge of the ice, which was as compact as a wall, and appeared to be at least 12 feet high ;' Captain Cook particularly Data. K It ■■ •» ■^^^'-*-^«^: . . ■^f^ss!:^.-^'^^:''' 74 remarked, that the ice was all pure and transparent, except the upper surface, which was rather ' porous.' And as the philosophers of the north have assured us, that pure transparent ice projects one tenth, as it swims in the sea, even this part of the ice must have been im- mersed to within 12 fathoms of the bottom : but Cook observes, • further to the northward it seemed to be much higher ; and in all human probability, the ice at no great distance to the northward, beyond what he saw, was immoveably fixed at the bottom, and continued so as far as soundings extend. For it is mentioned in Clarke's Voyage, that the height of the highest ice they saw « was estimated at 16 or 18 feet,' which therefore must have been immersed to within two or three fathoms of the bottom, according to the soundings they had at the time. " It is also worthy of remark, that the water was found to be somewhat shallower on the coast of America than that of Asia, at an equal distance ; our navigators were therefore able to penetrate near three degrees further to the northward, on the side of America, • because they came up with the ice in both years sooner, and in larger quantities, on the coast of Asia.' This strong fact seems of iu^lf almost suffi- cient to prove, that the heavy ice further to the north- ward must have been aground in some depth ; for if it were all water-borne, and moveable, as the ice was which^our navigators saw nearest the ships, why should it not move as far to the southward on one coast, as it did on the other, so long as it could float? The only reason can be, because its progress in that direction was sooner stopped, by the bottom being nearer the surface on the coast of America, than it was on that of Asia, and consequently giving to the main body of fixed ice, a general direction of about E.N.E. and W.S.W., ttccoi of water. "Whether \ reach as far at offered my sur I agreed in op that the sea w\ from ice in the blya warmer Pole itself, th as far as 75" strike the Po six months; then to lear however, ind They assure i Pole, the acti solstice, one-l and sufficient ice one inch at that^' it may i Pole itself, th in the space < of ice. We i to be sufficiei It should lik( zinp.4S of th( those singnh ways to dart rate climates often by one account, perl of the polar four feet.' irent, rouB.' dus, wimfl 1 im- Cook much at no saw, ed so irke's *wa8 :have )f the I time. r was ist of i; our three de of 1 both ast of t suffi- north- for if e was should ast, as le only rection rer the m that ody of i, and W.S.W., according to the probable line of equal depth of water. " Whether this barrier may at any time of the year reach as far as to the Pole itself, is a question I have offered my surmises on before, regarding the winter ; and I agreed in opinion with the philosophers of the south, that the sea wilt be (/ only say may be) there found free from ice in the summer ; • presuming that there is proba- bly a warmer summer temperature to dissolve it at the Pole itself, than any where else, to the southward of it, as far as 75' or 80" ; because, when the sun's rays first strike the Pole, they will be felt there incessantly for six months; but with what force and effect I had then to learn. For this information we are now, however, indebted to the philosophers of the north. They assure us, that ' it may be shown that, under the Pole, the action of the solar light is, at the time of the solstice, one-fourth part greater than at the Equator, and sufficient in the course of a day to melt a sheet of ice one inch and a half thick: They further inform us, thatj* it may be proved by experiment^ that, under the Pole itself, the power of the sun at the solstice could, in the space of a week, melt a stratum of five inches of ice. We may hence fairly compute the annual effect to be sufficient for thawing to the depth oi forty inches. It should likewise be observed, that owing to the ha- zinp.-ts of the atmosphere in the northern latitudes, those singular emanations, which are now found al- ways to dart from an azure sky, and in the more tempe- rate climates to diminish the calorific action of the sun, often by one-fifth part, can scarcely exi^t. On this account, perhaps, the estimate of the annual destruction of the polar ice may be swelled to the thickness of four feet,' m n <-' 76 '* Tliere appears to l)e some mistake or diHcordance in this computation; for, in the first case, n^ v' , so- lar light can be shown to he sufficient in the o^ <.(if3 of a day to melt a sheet of ice of an inch and . IvM' thick,' it could in the space of a week melt a stratum of ieti inches and a half, instead of *Jive ;' and by the same rule tlie annual effect may l>e sufRcient for thaw- ing to the depth of eighty-four inches and a half in- stead of * forty ; or perhaps the estimate of the annual destruction of polar ice may be swelled to more than eight feet instead of* four.' If, on the other hand, it be allowed, that only ' five inches' are melted in the space of a week, there cannot be so much as an inch and a half melted in the course of a day, as is stated in the first case. " Whether either of these computations will be ^provaV to be correct by the experiments Captain Buchan is gone to make in that quarter this year of our Lord, God knows ; but, if he should have proceeded between Green- laud and Spitzbergen, I fear not ; for the route to be pur- sued towards the Pole with most probability of success, must doubtless be midway between Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla, for the reasons I have before given. Even the philosophers of the south acknowledge that 'the lands are usually surrounded with ice,' and therefore recom- mend that ' ships, instead of coming near the land, and endeavouring to |,»ass through narrow straits,' ought to avoid the land, and keep as ' much as possible in the open sea, and in or near the edge of the current, Avhere the sea may be expected to be free.' Those of tlie north indeed go still further, and tell us, that a ' few weeks are commonly sufficient to disperse and dissolve the floating ice, and the sea is at last open for a short and dubious interval to the pursuits of the adventurous 1 mariner.' Ti reaching the 1 though not t ' as the cold the higher lati the Polar ba»' every summei could seize tl push on to the of penetratin • the project c they vntst at they believe t Burney are, a inclosed sea.'' are confessed they have tal any hope at a *' There i& ence and leai have read oni their faith u| astonished, thing deniei as wise as a state of in( no opinion the retnarkec and 17 was bergs passiuj much talk a ' it would b( cussion on t ,vr..-"^li&plfe!fc' 77 mnrinor.' Their opinion fts to tho practicaMlity of reaching the Pole seems, upon the whole, rather slender; lliongh not that it is impossible : for though they say, • as the cold increases but very little in advancing to the higher latitudes, the vast expanse of ice which covers the Polar basin may be nearly dissolved at the close of every Hummer; and i/the intrepid navigator, therefore, coidd seize the short and quivering interval, he might push on to the Pole itself;' yet * they consider the scheme of penetrating to the Pole itself as vwre daring' than • the project of finding a N. W. passage to China ; which they must at the same time suppose to be impossible, if they believe that the peculiarities observed by Captain Burney are, as they assert, ' obviously indications of an inclosed sea." Of the success of either plan their hopea are confessed to be ' extremely slender ;' but the ground they have taken leaves them in fact as much without any hope at all, as 1 confess I am, of success. ** There is another point on which these men of sci- ence and learning differ so materially, that those who have read one review, and perhaps felt disposed to pin their faith upon it, without much consideration, arer astonished, on perusing the other, to find almost every thing denied, or apparently refuted ; leaving them just as wise as they were before, or perhaps still worse, in a state of indecision and doubt between both, or with no opinion at all. The question I mean is, whether the remarked chilliness of our climate in the years 1810 and 17 was in any degree owing to the influence of ice- bergs passing in the Atlantic, which there has been so much talk about ? The philosophers of the south say, * it would be a waste of words to enter into any dis- cussion on the diminution of temperature, which must i * 78 necessarily be 'occasioned by the proximity of large mountains and islands of ice ; and therefore it is equally clear, that our climate must have been aflfected by the vast accumulation of ice on the east coast of Greenland. It can scarct ly be doubted, therefore, that'the remark- able chilliness of the atmosphere, in the summer months of 1816 and 1817, was owing to the appearance of ice in the Atlantic' " Now my own sensations assure me, that a northerly wind is coidf and the thermometer that they have not de- ceived me. I also suppose this wind to be cold here, because it comes from regions where ice is known to abound. And if there were as muck ice due west of us, and the wind came from it towards us, I dare say the atmosphere under the lee of it would be chilled by it to a ceilain degree, according to the distance from it ; but how much and how far, I shall leave to the philo- sophers of the north to * compute* Though these philo- sophers deny all this, yet at the same time they seem to me to acknowledge it. "After most ably explaining the Mrue principles which regulate the distribution of heat over the globe, in- dependent of every hypothesis, by the direct appeal to experiment and observation,' they assure us, that ' what- ever may be the vicissitudes of the Polar ice, they cannot in any sensible manner affect the climates of the lower latitudes ;' that ' the idea is quite chimerical that any wmds could ever transport the Polar influence to our shores.' Some persons * have imagined that the mountains or islands of ice which are occasionally drifted into the Atlantic ocean must be sufficient by their frigorific influence to modify the ciiaracter of our climate ; but a little reflection will convince us that such remott significant' " After e they .remarl been reckoi notoriously are occasion which must consequentl the usual rij "Now, t winds migh ocean, and might checli means folio northerly w so extensivi For it isjusi these northe journey som Pole. But, way from tl whence they clearly, thoi philosophei tively acqui somehow, t it is ackno^ account of ( our *severe\ at variance! be the vicis sensible m^ tudes;' anJ ■'■ui?iW=Ji« jr.jM.i»»*. ;■- '■^d:'ft?i^('!K''<.iih- i^««il^^^J', i 79 such remote influence on our climate must be quite in- significant' ' . . " After enlarging at length, and with great mgenuity, they .remark, that * the three last seasons, which have been reckoned very open, have succeeded to winters notoriously cold and protracted ; for our severe winters are occasioned by the prevalence of northerly winds, which must arrive at the Polar sea /row the south, and consequently transpor.; so much warmth as may check the usual rigor of the frost ! !' "Now, though it is possible that these northerly winds might have come all the way from the Pacific ocean, and 'have transported so much warmth as might'check the usual rigor of the frost,' yet it by no means follows of course that they must ; or that our northeriy winds were ever entitled, by having traversed so extensive a track, to the denomination of south. For it is just as possible, and much more probable, thai these northeriy winds originated and commenced their journey somewhere in our hemisphere on this side the Pole. But whether they did, or did not, come all the way from the Pacific, as southeriy winds, to the Pole, whence they became northerly as to us here, it is, however, clearly, though perhaps inadvertently, admitted by these philosophers, that these said northeriy winds had posi- tively acquired a frigorific * character,' somewhere, and somehow, on the passage to our • lower latitudes.' For it is acknowledged that * their prevalence occasioned (on account of their * frigorific influence'it may be supposed) our * severe winters:' an acknowledgment apparently at variance with the former opinion, that * whatever may be the vicissitudes of the Polar ice, they cannot in any sensible manner affect the climates of the lowet lati- tudes ;' and that • the idea is quite chimerical, that any XT •';j;;.-f^O»''3;t v .^-^^ --L*^-*^rrSr5^-:'" 80 winds could ever transport the Polar influence to our shores.' *, ** These northern philosophers have satisfoctorily ex- plained the true principles >vhich regulate the distribu< tion of heat over the glob(.>, particularly regarding the temperature of the earth, at certain depths. But in applying these principles to the temperature of the sea, some of the conclusions appear not so well to accord with experiment and observation. They say, that * in the more temperate regions of the globe, the superficial waters of lakes and seas, as they grow warmer, and therefore specifically lighter, still remain suspended by their acquired buoyancy ; but whenever they come to be chilled, they suffer contraction, and are precipitated ; Jience the deep water of lakes and seas is always con- giderably colder than what floats at the surface.' [Query, — Would not the deep water of a. frozen lake or sea in the more temperate regions be warmer than at the sur- face, for the same reason that it is so in Polar regions ?] It is then said, that * the gradation of cold is distinctly traced to the depth of 20 fathoms, belo'w nhich tlie di- minished temperature continues nearly uniform, as far as the sounding line can reach.' •' Though the sea, as well as the land, may have its isothermal lines, yet at what various depths, according to the temperature of the atmosphere, climates, and other mutable circumstances, has not yet been disco- vered ; but certainly generally far below the depth of twenty fathoms. For it would seem that thel*e must be at tlie surface, on two parallels, somewhere between the Equator and the Poles, two stations, or points, not filed, but changeable, and dependent on the atmospheric tempe- rature over them : between which stations, or points, and the Equator, iXie wAiet \\'\\\ be progressively colder, in proportion and its respe proportion pe this general n where there i land. " The folio the tropics, a the temperatu surface of th warmer than generally, bee local causes and in all pr( the fluid in t) " On the 2 longitude of I perature of th and at the de the time bein lat. 50° 20' S. of the air wi 60 fathoms 2 of May, 56 m 146° 16'W.tl equal at 22*° On the 2^d c cific, the temi depth of 25 ft 125 fathoms decrease of t 50 fathoms, examples mi^ necessary. < Data. ■' *!.^*5^jf-^i^fT^*=^*>'* 81 in in proportion perhaps to its depth ; and between each, and its respective Pokt the water will be warmer in proportion perhaps to its depth from the surface. But this general rule will not, of course always hold good, where there are soundings, or in confined waters near land. *♦ The following experiments will prove that between the tropics, and in the temperate zones at sea, when the temperature of the atmosphere exceeds that of the surface of the sea, the superficial water is generally warmer than that at certain dopths beneath it (I say generally/, because in soundings and confined waters local causes may effect many exceptions to this rule), and in all probability, the greater the depth the colder the fluid in that case. " On the 23d of Feb., in lat. 62" S. and about the longitude of 50° W., Captain Krusenstem says the tem- perature of the air was 12° Reaumur, of the surface 10', and at the depth of 55 fathoms 81°; the whole depth at the time being 75 fathoms^.-~Or the 9th of March, in lat. 50° 20' S. and longitude 72° 45' W. the temperature of the air was 4' R., the surface 2h° ; at the depth of 60 fathoms 2h° ; and at 100 fathoms 1^°.— On the 24th of May, 56 miles south of the Equator, and in longitude 146° 16'W., the temperature of the air and surface were equal at 224° ; and at the depth of 100 fathoms 12J°. On the 2id of June, on the tropic of Cancer, in the Pa- cific, the temperature of the surface was 20° 5' R. ; at the depth of 25 fathoms 19° 5'; at 50 fathoms 17° 2' ; and at 125 fathums 13° 3'; so that there was a progressive decrease of temperature of 1° in 25 fathoms ; 3° 3' la 50 fathoms, and 7° 2' at 125 fathoms. Many movft examples might be given to the same effect, if it vvcse necessary. One very remarkable one is mentioned by Data, • L w^r [¥;"■■ .■;>-i' 82 Mr. Clarke Abel in his recent work. He infortans iss that Captain Wauchope of H. M. S. Eurydice, when within a few leagues of the Equator, put his apparatus overboard, and allowed it to descend till it had run out 1400 fathoms of line, but he estimated the perpen- dicular depth at 1000 fathoms. The temperature of the surface was 73". On drawing up the instrument, he found the thermometer marking 42° ; a difference of temperature of 31°. And there can be no doubt but that the difference of the temperature was progres- sive from the surface down to that depth. " The philosophers of the north observe : ' That in shallow seas, the cold substratum of liquid is brought nearer to the surface ;' but though as a general axiom this may be true, yet it may not be relied on in particu* lar cases, much less ' that the increasing coldness of the water drawn up from only the depth of a few fathoms, may therefore indicate to the nayigator who traverses the wide ocean, his approach to banks or land.' Indeed no navigator who has had any experi- ence in the matter would, I apprehend, place the least dependence on so precarious a guide ; for he must know that many experiments would show its falli- bility. " Some instances, in proof of this, may be collected from the journal of Captain Hall of the Lyra, lately published, who made some experiments on the tempe- rature of the surface near the Loochoo Islands, and in the Yellow Sea. ** On the 19th of July, when off Chusan in, 32 fathoms water, the temperature of the surface of the sea was 78° and 80° ; and on the 22d, in 43 fathoms, it was only 77° and 72° ; but when at anchor in 3i fathoms, in the Gulf of Peecheelee, in latitude 38° 42' N., and longi- tude 117° 4 of the surfa August, wh at noon, am warmer tha in Napakiai surface of tl Island of I longitude 1 colder^ beini Again, on il harbour, wl temperature (or 7 or 8 c there before' lower, beinj instances, th least) the ne the depth of "Mr. Cl£ a few experij the sea, in s which, thoi sive. They Date. Mo 1 S 4 5 6 July 1K16. 23 8 A.M. 24 Noon 25 8 A.M. 8 P.M. 26 6 A.M. 87 11 P.M. 3; 3« iiife'"!^* 83 tude 117° 49' W., on the 27th of July, the temperature of the surface was as high as 82". Also on the 3d of August, when at anchor oflf Peiho, the surface was 82° at noon, and 80° at midnight, and there it was generally mrmer than the atmosphere itself. When at anchor in Napakiang harbour, the general temperature of the surface of the sea was about 83°, but out at sea. off the Island of Loochoo, when in latitude 26° 36' N. and longitude 127° 56' W. the surface was 4 or 5 degrees colder, being on the 14th and 15th only 79 i and 78 . A-ain on the 20th of October, at anchor in Napakiang harbour, when the autumnal cold had lowered the temperature of the sea's surface there to 75 \ and 75 , (or 7 or 8 degrees 6eW what it was when anchored there before) yet in the Japan sea the surface was also lower, being 74° and 73°. Thus in these particular instances, the water l^ecame warmer (at the surface at least) the nearer the land was approached, and also as the depth of water decreased. " Mr Clarke Abel has also published the result ot a few experiments made by him on the temperature of the sea, in soundimrs, both at the surface and bottom, which, though useful and satisfactory, are not conclu- sive. They are shown in the following table. Date. s o NolJuly 1816.1 s a o 193 Tempe- rature. Place. Difference ot Temperature IS 8 A.M. 35 01 24 Noon 136 24 25 8 A.M. 37 30 132 40l20 8 P.M. 116 26 6 A.M. 37 58 121 S-JJlS 2711P.M. 38 12 120 SOJlft Open Sea. do. do. do. Amongst the Mectaw Islands. GulfofPec- chcelee. XI 65 67 62 66 66 72 O a o 2 4 5 r 3 S V CQ .S E ■Sa o 9 4 5 3 o 11 8 10 3 ! ■ ,,JO«4jlS; »:- 84 *• From these experiments (Mr. Clarke Abel observes) it appears : * 1st. That the sea diminishes in its tem- perature in proportion to its depth.' *2d. That the difference of the tempei ture of the surface and any given depth, within a certain range, is greater at sea than near the land.* * 3d. That the difference of the temperature at the surface and bottom is greatest when that of the air and surface is kast.^ "The 1st and Sd 'positions appear evident on the face of the ' xperiments, but the experiment No. 3 seems to affect the correctness of the 2d position ; for the difference of the surface, and 20 fathoms depth, was 5 degrees, and by that of the Isi experiment, made further from the land, there was a difference of 9° only in 40 fathoms ; which was less in proportion than near the land. It is remarkable, however, tliat all these experiments (except the 3d) prove, as far as they go, that in the depth of 15 fathoms the water at the bottom was invariably warmer, than it was found to be at the depth of 40 fathoms *in the open sea;' and in the Gulf of Peecheelee, where the 6th experiment was made, it was no less than T degrees warmer at the depth of 15 fathoms. "The lower state of the atmosphere when the 3d experiment was made, would seem to account for the temperature of the water at the bottom being so much below what it was found to be by the others. " There is also a much greater proportional difference of the temperature of the air ar d water at the depth of 20 fathoms, than there was by the rest of the experi- ments. '* These experiments also prove, that in these * shal- low seas,.' however, the cold substratum of liquid, was f\ot brought ' earrs the surface, at this season of the year ; so tha ing * coldness a few fathom verses the wi( but the revers "After thij inquiry, I shi that as the ultimately dej cable for ships] into the Pacifi said and writ two persons a and none have seem that this ance, ought t( as the lastt an( cult to be solv too (if ever the close of a toils by sickness oi anxiety and fa they came, or their further pi " The despj are gone, to ej seems as if a labyrinth, by pass out of it the world supi that there migl doubt, and no] twice tried, bi barrier which 80 year ; so that in these instances, there was no increas- ing * coldness of water drawn up from the depth of only a few fathoms, to indicate to the navigator, who tra- verses the wide ocean, his approach to land or banks ;' but the reverse. ■ ' - "After this digression from the chief point of my inquiry, I shall now concAde, by merely observing, that as the success or failure of both expeditions ultimately depends upon there being a passage {practi- cable/or ships) or no passage, from * the Polar Basin' into the Pacific,~a point, on which so much has been said and written by philosophers — on which scarcely two persons are found to agree — all have their doubts, and none have any positive knowledge, — it would really seem that thisy of all others, from its superior import- ance, ought to have been first determined, and not left as the last, and in all human probability the most diffi- cult to be solved by our Polar navigators. And that too (if ever they reach so far) near the long-hoped for close of a toilsome voyage, when they may be reduced by sickness or deaths ; or at least so worn down by anxiety and fatigue, as to be unable to return the way they came, or to surmount the difficulties opposed to their further progress. " The despatching these expeditions by the way they are gone, to explore a passage through Behring's Strait, seems as if a person were ordered to enter a certain labyrinth, by a well known passage on one side, but to pass out of it on the opposite by another, which one half the world supposed there might be, and the other half that there might not— of whose existence most were in doubt, and none knew any thing, except a few, who had twice tried, but could find no passage beyond a certain barrier which tlteji found to be insurmountabk. T^m Pf "is* 86 " Nov if this very barrier should happen to l)e gene- rally considered as Ihe probably chief obstacle to be sur- mounted, and could, without much difficulty, be ap- proached from the side where it lay ; certainly the most rational, the i'4.ost prudent and advisable course should seem to be, first of all to have this barrier examined on that side, and its nature and extent fully ascertained, before (he person be sent on what people of common sense would perhaps call ' a wild-goose-chase,' without such information. - :. -^ '. -^ • i i j " However, though this part of the expeditions may fail, yet if our navigators return, let them have reached where they may, they will at least bring back with them more correct hydrographical information than any we can have at present. And in all probability the observations they may have been enabled to make in the Arctic regions will enlarge the bounds of sci- ence; and for that alone, though no other benefit should be derived from them, it was highly befitting a country like this to send them out." In the month of October, 1818, the Dorothea and Trent arrived, after the most strenuous, but unsuccess- ful endeavors to penetrate towards the North Pole, between Greenland and Spitzbergen. The Isabella and Alexander also returned to Deptford on the 21st of Noveml»er ; and in the beginning of the following year Captain Ross published an account of his voyage. A writer in the Quarterly Review, No. 41, published in May 1819, in criticising that work, speaks of the two voyages in these terms : " The failure of the Polar expedition was owing to one of those accidents to which all sea voyages are liable, more especially when to the ordinary sea risk is superadded that of a naviga- tion among fields and masses of ice." Now, as a mere looker on, I Captain Buc to the eastwa advanced fu been possibl Globe, he ne " Of the hardly know for it." He count for it Captain to 1 consoles hin perienced in failure of the at rest the 1 non-existenc glance " at it." The fir candidly ack there is such fin, though I is usually re{ few or none, any more tl ginary curre| Baffin's Ses Baffin's yeri it one of thj a practicabll show by anj In const tions, the qj way of thi northward ■jj]^' ene- sur- ; ap- nost ould d on ined, imon hout may ched with than bility make f 8ci- enefit Ling a I and ccess- Pole, la and 1st of 5 year jyage. lished of the Polar nt^i to ' when laviga- amere looker on, I am inclined to think. i.itli Phoca, that if rantoin Bachan had been ordered to make A« attempt TZeaZrd of Spitsbergen he might perhaps l>a.e advanced further than he did; though even if .thad ^en possible for him to ?»»*«/«'"*","'"*'' riobe he never would have reached Behnngs Strait """of the other Voyage (says the Rev ewer) we hardly know in what terms to speak, or how to account for it " He does, however, in the seque , seem to ^- llnt for it pretty well. And, »f/. '>elabo«n"S the Captain to his heart's content with h.s g"™^;?"'"'** consoles *i».«;/ under " *« <1'«»PP;»'"™' ""^ '^^ Dcrienced in common with the rm of the mrld, at the E of the two expeditions, which bade so f<>»_«[ P°^ Baflin's veracity has gone far ^ »°*''f • »°,f J'* it one of the Revk««T's Wrongest argum«U in favor of a pmcticable passage for ships ; as I shall endeavor to '"Z llX^co of the failure of both these expedi- tions, the question of a practicable P^ "l^' :?*!' ^, way of the Pole, or through Davis s Strart to the Tthward and westward, and through Behnngs WF 't4l m 4: ■AH Strait into the Pacific, of course remained in precisely the same doubtful state as it did before they sailed. Captain Ross had been deceived by a reliance on his own eyesight, and therefore did not examine, with all due care and attention, the entrance and extent of Lancaster Sound, which many of the Officers of the Expedition believed to be open to the westwp.) d ; it was therefore thought proper to send out another jjcpedi- tion to explore it completely. Many were sanguine enough to think it wo\ild be found to lead into the Polar Sea, or along the North Coast of America, whence the long-sought for passage through Behring's Strait would be accomplished, and none more so than our Reviewer. In the Quarterly Review, No. 35, at pages 211, 212, he took much pains to show that his " perpetual cur* rent to the southward through Baffin's Sea did exist, because Baffin's Bay did not ; as it would be difficult to explain how any current could originate at the bottom of such a Bay, much less a current that is stated to run sometimes with a velocity of four ana even five miles an hour ;" and the fact of " several vessels having been as high as Baffin, without observing the least ap- pearance of land, removed all doubt as to the non- existence of the Bay, as drawn in the charts." From his mvn mind it certainly did. In the Quarterly Review, No. 36, for June following, -while the two Expeditions under Buchan and Ross were pending, he *' discussed the points on which the probability of their success might be calculated ; and which he thought would mainly depend on two circum- stances ; the existence of a circumvolving current from the North Pacific into the Atlantic, which would prove the communication ; and of a great Polar Sea without lam does not se plation. He only point to nent directi( Though I himself, with through Bel mahogany i those waters pletely dispi he admits, c being a tri/ that Strait ; Lieutenant ] fessed that 1 rather inlanc impossibility down to Di$ notwithstant of there be he still din circumvolvi: Oceans, am declared *• current cou protesting ** whatever trary, there great body to the soutr This pej favorite nc '*so circuit Data. 89 n- ,e without land." As to any obstruction from ice there, it does not seem to have entered at all into his contem- plation. He considered " the important, and mdecd the only point to be ascertained, was the general and perina-. nent direction taken by the great body of the Pacific. Though he seems to have been perfectly satisfied himself, with « having traced the waters of the Pacific through Behring's Strait." and along with it a plank of mahogany all the way to Disco ; yet the movement of those waters towards Behring's Strait seems to be com- pletely disproved by Phoca's statement of facts, though he admits, on the words of Cook and Clarke, of there and I being a trifling superficial current to the northward m that Strait ; and which has since been confirnnd by Lieutenant Kotzebue. But as the Reviewer ha "- fessed that he does " now know there is such a Bay rather inland Sea, as that of Baffin," he must admu impossibility of the mahogany plank having drifted down to Disco, through his « Baffin's Sea. And yet. notwithstanding this Reviewer's acknowledgement «oa;, of there being indeed such a Bay as that of Baffin, he still clings to his favorite current, as part of the circumvolving one between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, and will not give it «p, although he formerly declared " it would be difficult to explain how any current could originate in the bottom of such a bay; protesting in the Quarterly Review, No. 41. that « whatever Captain Ross may say or think to the con- trary, there cannot remain the slightest doubt that the great body of the water in Baffin's Bay has a motion to the southward. i • . j This pertinacious adherence to a long chenshed favorite notion, is very natural in one who had been m circumstantial with regard to this current. &s Us ^ M Data. *i i 90 txisUnce (said he) affords, in our opirtiori, tr,f besi hope for the success of the Expeditions now engaged in ex- ploring a passage." •'•''■ Unwilling to place much confidence in the state* ments of the conductor of the Expedition through Davis's Strait, the Quarterly Reviewer preferred the opinion of the officers of the Alexander, "that a southerly current had been experienced, Ion g before they approached the entrance of Cumberland Strait," on their return to the southward. But on this subject, in its proper order. I shall have occasion to give the opinion of the officer who then commanded the Alex- ander, and has had further experience, since that time, of the set of the currents, or tides, in Davis's Strait, as far to the northward, at least, as Lancaster Sound. The result of Ross's Voyage having rendered a pas- sage through " Baffin's Sea" rather hopeless in a high tatitudet and the supposed current at all events very doubtful, though the Reviewer rested his ** best hope^ for the success of the Expedition on its existence ; the searcli': was now to be made for this " best hope" further to the southward, in Sir James Lancaster's Sound. The Hecla and Griper were commissioned for this service about tb latf end of January 1819, the former by Lieuteuii £ .vard William Parry, and the diper by Lieu tF* -.ant Matthew Liddun. They left Deptford on t! « 4th of May, and sailed from the Nore on the nth. Lieutenant Parry was instructed, as Commander of the Expedition, *' to make the best of his way to Davis's Strait. On his arrival in this Strait, his further proceedings were to be regulated chiefly by the position and extent of the ice ; but on finding it sufficiently open to permit his approach to the western shores of the Strait, and hia advance to the , T».-.V:C-4'ii^'j *-XM•i^^isi^?'V»!S!^'.J*VS)»^i^%p■ ..■ r^^J.-- r tu '>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) .^' .,V 4. c v^% 1.0 ;t>- 1^ ■" 156 13-2 UUI O o I.I 111.25 ■50 us 2.2 ■li - IIIIIM Nl llilj^ V] / i? / ■M^^ll „ PhotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WERSTER.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '^'"V^ >* CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical MIcroreproducuons / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 91 northward, as far as the opening in Sir Samea Lan- caster's Sound, he was to proceed in the first instance, to that part of the coast, and use his best endeavors to explore the bottom of that Sound ; or in the event of its proving a Strait opening to the westward, he was to use ail possible means, consistently with the safety of the two ships, to pass through it, and ascertain its direction and communications; and if it should be found to connect itself with the northern sea, he was to make the best of his way to Behring*s Strait/' The finding a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific was the main o^ect of this expedition. Another expedi- tion proceeded also under the command of Lieutenant Franklin, late Commander of the Trent, from Fort York, on the shores of Hudson's Bay, to trace the Copper Mine River to its month, and the coast of America firom thence to the eastward or northward, as the case might be, in order to settle the long-sought-for N.E. point of that Continent. Lieutenant Parry re- lumed from his Voyage on the 3d of November 1820, of which he has published a well-written account. Captain Franklin returned some months before him, and both were justly promoted for the ability and per- severance with which they endeavored to zccom\M8\i the grand objects of the Expeditions they were respectively intrusted with the command of. But though they both .failed in attaining the two chief ultimate objects of their search, owing to the existence of physical impediments which had not been foreseen, and perhaps no human power could possibly have snrmoimted ; yet they did as much as men could do, and brought back with them a great accession of knowledge respecting the Arctic regions, and many experimental facts, which will be found, I fear, when we come to. examine them SliiJ '■'l'4 'f, \ 02 closely, to bear rather u^^ahist than in favor of the exist- ence of a practicable N.W. passage for ships, though both these officers have recorded their opinions of its practicabihty. Though Captain Parry had the good fortune to find a navigable passage, from the entrance of Lancaster Sound, along the southern shores of a chain of lands, lying in an east and virest direction, and sufficiently contiguous to keep that passage free at least of the heavy polar ices, by impeding their further progress between or to the southward of those lands ; yet when he approached the S.W. end of the westernmost of them, named by him Melville Island, he found it utterly impossible to succeed in his most strenuous at> tempts to pass that point. When near this point. Captain Parry says, he sent Lieutenant Beechey to measure a mass of ice which had drifted close to the slip, who found its thickness to be 42 feet ; and he says, " as it was a piece of a regular floe, this mea- surement may serve to give some idea of the general thickness of the ice in this neighbourhood. There were «orae, however, whiph were of much larger dimensions ; an immense floe, which formed the principal, or at least the nearest obstruction to the westward, was covered with large hummocks, giving to its upper surface the appearance of hill and dale. The thickness of this floe, at its nearest edge, was six or seven feet above the sea, and as about six sevenths are usually immersed, the whole thickness would appear, in the common way of reckoning, to have been from 40 to 5& feet, which cor- responds with that actually measured by Lieutenant Beechey. But the hummocks were, many of them at least, from 15 to 25 feet above the level of the sea, so that the solidity of this enormous floe must have been m vor of the exist* ships, though opinions of its fortune to find :e of Lancaster chain of lands, and sufficiently at least of the iirther progress »se lands ; yet he westernmost id, he found it it strenuous at- lear this point, mt Beechey to ^ed close to the 2 feet; and he ' floe, this mea- k of the general od. There were ger dimensions ; cipal, or at least rd, was covered »per surface the Dess of this floe, it above the sea, r immersed, the common way of feet, which cor- by Lieutenant lany of them at of the sea, so must have been infinitely greater than any thing we had seen before. It was the opinion of Messrs. Allison and Fyfie that it very much resembled the ice met with at SpUzbergertt but according to the account of the two latter, was much heavier than any which they had seen there." Captain Parry then observes — " It now became evident, from the combined experience of this and the preced- ing year, that there was something peculiar about the S.W. extremity of Melville Island, which made the icy sea there extremely unfavorable to navigation, and which seemed likely to bid defiance to all our efibrts to proceed much further to the westward in this par£il- lei of latitude. We had arrived off" it on the 17th of September 1819, after long and heavy gales from the north-westward, by which alone the ice is ever opened on this coast" (meaning, I presume, t\ie south or lee- ward coast imth those winds), " and found it in unusu- ally heavy and extensive fields, completely closing in with the land, a mile or two to the eastward of where we were now lying. We again arrived herein the early part of August; and though the rest of the navigation had been remarkably clear for the 50 miles between this and Winter Harbour, seeming to afford a presumptive proof that the season was rather a favorable one than otherwise, the same obstruction presented itself as before ; nor did there appear, from our late experience, a reasonable ground to hope that any fortuitous cir- cumstance, such as an alteration in winds or currents, was likely to remove the formidable impediments which we had to encounter. The increased dimensions of the ice hereabouts would not alone have created an in ur- mountable difficulty in the navigation, but that it was yevy naturally accompanied by a degree of closeness which seldom or never admitted an open space of ,1*"' >^->M 94 clear water of Rufiicient size for a ship, or even a boat, to sail on it. We had been lying nearly in our present situation, with an easterly wind, and blowing fresh, for thirty-six hours together, and although this was consi* derably off the land, b ^yond the western point of the land now in sight, the ice had not during the whole of that time moved a single yard from the shore ; afford* ing a proof that there was no space in which the ice was at liberty to move to the westward" Captain Parry, at page 297 of his Voyage, aflter again admitting that *' there is something peculiar about the S.W. end of Mel- ville IsLandf extremely unfavorable to navigation, yet it is also certain, that the obstructions we met with from ice, both as to its thickness and extent, were found ge-f nerally to increase as we proceeded to the westward after passing through Barrow's Strait," endeavors to account for this ' peculiar something,' as well as this increased obstruction from ice, in a way that I should rather have expected from the Quarterly Reviewer than liim. Captain Parry says, " That we should find this to be the case, might perhaps liave been reasonably anticipated ; because the proximity to a permanently open sea" (the Pacific I presume) " appears to be the jcircumstance, which of all others, tends the most tp temper the severity of the Polar r^ons, in, any given parallel of latitude. On this account, I should always expect to meet with the most serious impediment about midway between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans ; and having once passed that barrier, I should as confidently hope to find the difficulties lessen, in proportion as we advanced towards the latter sea ; especially as it is well known that the climate of any given parallel on the west side of America is, no matter from what cause, very ma ay degrees more temperate than on the eastern , or even a boat, ly in our present lowing fresh, for b this was consi* ern point of the uring the whole he shore ; afford* n which the ice Captain Parry, n admitting that ;.W. end of Mel- navigation, yet it 'e met with from , were found ge-f to the westward it," endeavors to ,' as well as this ray that I should 'ly Reviewer than ) should find this been reasonably > a permanently appears to be the !nds the most tp ns, in, any given I should always mpediment about ific Oceans ; and jld as confidently proportion as we cially as it is well irallel on the west what cause, very on the eastern 8d coast. " This is a very fair theoretical mode of iccbuht- ing for the peculiarity of the obstructions near the S.W. end of Melville Island, though the Quarterly Reviewer gives a much better reason for it He says, •• All their efforts proved of no avail to get beyond the S.W. extremity of Melville Island. There is something peculiar in the situation of this point that prevents the ice from leaving the shore, as had in every other part of the voyage been found to be the case ; it was owing probu" hly to the discontitmance of land, or to the prevailing northerly winds having driven dovm the main body of ice, and wedged it in among the Islands." Nothing can be more evident than that it was owing to both these causes; and which Mr. Fisher, the Surgeon of the Hecla, seems very clearly to have considered so on the spot. He says, in his Voyage of Discovery to the Arctic regions, at page 127, on Friday 17th Septem- ber, 1819, " We cast off again this morning, and stood to the westward, until we came to the ice, which we found to be nearly in the same situation where we were stopped by it yesterday. It was observed to be much heavier than what we have generally met with before, bemg somewhat like that which they describe the Greenland ice to be; so that I think it is most probable that it is not formed here, hai drifts down from higher latitudes^ or what may be termed the Polar Sea." The day before this, the ship had been '* made fast to a hummock of ice aground in fifteen fathoms water," which must therefore have been at least 100 feet thick* In the following year again, when in latitude 74° 26^, and longitude 113° 46^, very near the S.W. extremity of Melville Island, on the 15tb of August, he says, at page 234 : *' With respect to the state of the ice, I could perceive no material difference in it to-day from what it has been for this week past : close in with the land, "m I" ! I iP 1 • - ■■ - '- • ■■ r -' 6« it is broken up into small pieces ; but at the distance of a mile (or two at the farthest) from the coast, commence a line of floes, that extend to the westward and south- ward as far as the eye can penetrate from the most elcTated situation in this neighbourhood, and leaviog no clear space except a few pools." "Without di- gressing much from my narrative, I may remark, in this place, that the reason generally given why so much heavy ice should lie off this part of the coast is, because we are near the west end of this island, so that the ice which comes from the northward lodges here. The land (Banks's) that we see to the southward and westward (at the distance of 17 or 18 leagues) may be considered also as another locality that tends to keep this place always hampered with ice." Mr. Fisher's opinion as to the origin and cause of this heavy ice in this place, is doubtless most correct ; and from what he says, it would appear to have been generally en- tertained on board the ships at the time. It seems in- deed, from the following passage, to have been even the opinion of Captain Parry himself, that discontinuity of land westward of Melville Island was one reason why this insurmountable icy impediment, of so new a character, was found about the western extremity of that island ; and which therefore necessarily involves admission of the other primary one, viz. the so far un- obstructed drift of the ice from the northward. At page "250 he says, « On the i6th of August, in order to have a clear and distinct view of the state cf the ice, after 24 hours' wind from that (western) quarter, Captain tSabine, Mr. Edwards, and myself, walked about two miles to the westward, along the highest part of the land, next the sea ; from whence it appeared but too evident that no passage in this direction was yet to be ia>'i» iifi'Jli"i."-*iw>— . --.»«rM'"i-^^ ■ 97 the distance of a oast, commence ard and south- from the most )od, and leavkig "Without di- may remark, in 'en why so much f the coast is, island, so that itrd lodges here, southward and leagues) may be at tends to keep Mr. Fisher's his heavy ice in ; and from what en generally en- ne. It seems in* have been even that discontinuity 1 was one reason lent, of so new a tern extremity of essarily involves iz. the so far un- hward. At page in order to have of the ice, after quarter, Captain liked about two lest part of the ippeared but too on was yet to be expected. The only clear water in sight, was a chan- nel of about three quarters of a mile wide in some places, between the ice and the land, extending as far as a bold headland bearing N. 52° W. distant two miles and a quarter, and was called Cape Dundas. The ice to the W. and W.S.W. was as solid and compact to all appearance as so much land; to which, indeed, the surface of many of the lields, from the kind of hill and dale I have before endeavored to describe, bore no imperfect resemblance. I have no doubt that, had it been our object to circunwavigale iMelville Lland, or, on the other hand, had the coast continued its westerly direction^ instead of turning to the northward, we should have contrived to proceed a little occasionally, as op- portunities offered." As to tne first, it is very ques- tionable ; but of the latter there can be no doubt at all, because, if tl e land had continued its westerly direction, no such impediment as was found, for want of its pro- tection on the north, could have existed, as far as it might have extended. Indeed, if a chain of lands such as the North Georgian Islands extended from Melville Island all the way to the meridian of Behring's Strait, on the same parallel, the passage from thence to that Strait would be attended with no more difficulty than that was from the entrance of Lancaster Sound to Mel- ville Island, and for exactly the same reason. But it is from the improbability (amounting almost to a certain- ty) that any such lands can be reasonably ^^^^pected to exist in a direction parallel to the north coa^' of Ame- rica, so contiguous to each other, in that whole extent, as to afford to ships the same protection , from the polar ice, as the Hecia and Griper received from the North Georgian Islands, that I am compelled to infer the non-existence of a practicable N.W. passage for ships. Data. ' . N '•l-!i «s land towards the coast of America, as far even as Icy Cape, are insulated^ that spaces, quite as extensive as that to the westward of Melville Island, may intervene, so as to admit the polar ices between lands so sepa- rated, and thereby cause the very same kind of obstruc- tion as was met with at the S.W. extremity of Melville Island. Nothing can prove more clearly than the foregoing extracts, that the ices described therein were what Mr. Fisher very justly considered them, polar ices, (if there be no land to the northward) and that such ices have, as I will endeavor to prove they must necessarily have, a constant tendency to drift to the southward, under the impulse given to them by the polar current, and the prevailing northerly winds, until they are impeded by the northern shores of intervening lands, upon which they must consequently lodge ; as was found to be the case^by Captain Parry, when he made his journey across Melville Island. He says, at page 191, "As soon as we had p-ained the summit of this point, which was about 80 feet above the sea, and was named after Mr. Nias, we had an additional confirmation that it was the sea which we had now reached ; the ice being thrown up under the point, and as far as we could see to the west- ward, in large, high, irregular masses, exactly similar to those which had so often afforded us anchorage and shelter upon the southern shores of the Island." " A continuous line of very large hummocks of ice extended from Point Nias about two miles and a half in a N.E. direction. They were the kind of hummocks which always indicate the ice having met with resistance by grounding. The whole of the shore, as far as I could see ■ ■-Ji*f.i-.Jf4.»-R*r*ii i.iiiiJMWr"'-- ■ ■-■■-■'■''•^■-^ .-:s-*«^ admitting that all tvestside of Green* as far even as Icy lite as extensive as ind, may intervene, en lands so sepa- ne kind of obstruc- remityof Melville han the foregoing rein were what Mr. polar ices, (if there hat such ices have, st necessarily have, i southward, under lar current, and the ley are impeded by lands, upon which as found to be the made his journey page 191, "As soon lis point, which was as named after Mr. ation that it was the e ice being thrown up ould see to the west* es, exactly similar to us anchorage and • the Island." « A ocks of ice extended nd a half in a N.£. if hummocks which et with resistance by as far as I could see r, ..^-, t,^.. 90 with a glass, bore evident marks of that tremendous pres- sure which is produced by Belds of ire when set in mo- tion." He further observes, " The ice on this coast, as compared with that in Winter Harbour, being double the thickness of that of the other, may at first sight appear to be an indication of a more severe climate on this than on the southern coast of Melville Island." Though it may appear very like presumption to question the opinion and judgment of Captain Parry, in this in- stance, yet 1 should imagine there can be no doubt of the fact of the north side of Melville Island being colder than the other, for the same reason that it would be warmer near the south side of a high brick-wall, than it possibly could be on the other; especially if extensive fields of ice lay to the north of it, and the winds prevailed nearly two-thirds of the year from that quarter, as it appears they do at Melville Island. And the proof o( this is, that the radiation of. heat from the southern shores of Melville Island dissolved the ice from those shores, but the northern continued to be encumbered with it ; and in all human probability will remain so till doomsday.' However, Captain Parry says, " this circumstance is, as we know by experience, the formation of a single winter ; whereas, on an open and exposed beach, like that of Point Nias, the last year's or sea ice is at liberty to fix itself in the autumn, forcing up the masses which we see aground in all such situations, and increasing in the course of the ensuing winter to the ' Mr. Fisher, at page 209, aays, <' With respect to the nature of the country on tliis side the island, there is as little to be said, in favor of its fertility, as any we have seen ; in fact it is as barren as it is possi- ble for land to be : even the hardy Poppy, that abounds on the south tide of the island in the worst soil, is not to be teen here." • • lOO thickness which we found it to lie. Had we acci- dentally come to any bay or harbour, secure from the access of the floes from without, and of the same depth as Winter Harbour, I doubt not we should have found the ice in it of nearly the same thickness." I am free to confess that I very much doubt this inference; for though a bay on the north side of the island, " secure from the floes from without," and "of the same depth as Winter Harbour," would be, so far, similar; yet the situation of one, being to the north, open to the wmds which are found so generally to blow from that fngid quarter, and the other on the south, having intervenmg land to shelter it more from them, there would doubtless be a diflerence of general temperature in favor of Wm- ter Harbour. However, though this may be only mat- ter of opinion, yet the matters of fact which the forego- ing extract contains, are much more to my purpose, and speak a language thatcannot well be misunderstood. Ihe first of these is, that heavy masses of ice had heen forced up, on an open and exposed beach— open to the north. From this first fact 1 infer the existence of a cause (or causes) let it be what it may, which is in constant or general operation of power suflScient to impel those masses /row north to south, and to force them by " tre- mendous pressure up. on the l>each." ''^hat the same cause will impel these polar ices dov to the south- ward, even on to the coast of Araerir wherever they can float, and do not meet with any obstruction to their progress; or are not dissolved. ' ,at if any of the masses furthest to the southward be in fact dissolved, the space they covered is imperceptibly occupied by those next to them, which are continually pressed on towards the south, by others still further to the north- ward of them. For this reason, the north shore of I: t -iv^' M^ -t^pi^l^i' Had we acci* r, secure from the f the same depth should have found " I am free to is inference; for island, "secure f the same depth T, similar ; yet the open to the winds »w from that frigid having intervening 'e would doubtless •e in favor of Win- I may be only mat- f which the forego- my purpose, and (lisunderstood. The ice had heen/orced open to the north. ;nce of a cause (or h is in constant or (nt to impel those orce them by " tre* '^'^hat the same Jvi' to the south- io wherever they obstruction to their ,.at if any of the 3 in fact dissolved, libly occupied by nually pressed on rther to the north- le north shore of 101 Melville Island wrb encumbered with such polar ices, from the beach, as far out to sea, towards the north, as the sight extended at its highest elevation. And for thd same reason, there can be no doubt that the north' em shores of all lands situated between Greenland and any part of the north coast of America, must be encumbered in like manner, unless they be protected from the polar ices by other lands to the northward of them. Besides, ices so lodged aground may, instead of diminishing, perhaps augment annually, as Phoca, with proper caution and diffidence, only inferred Vi» pos- sible, because (what was considered) the best authority, at the time, informed him, " that, owing to the great depth at which ice floats in water, it must take the ground at considerable distance from the shore, whern it becomes a nucleus for floating patches to form round it ; and the summer sun having little power on such enormous masses, they accumulate in magnitude, and spread over a wider surface from year to year ; and if large fragments were not frequently torn from them, and borne away by the currents, the whole surface of the straits and narrow seas would, in process of time, be covered with ice. Tbemost northerly straits and islands, which form the passages into Hudson's Bay, are of course never free from mountains and patches of ice ; and yet all navigators proceeding on discovery have either enter- ed those Straits and had to struggle against the ice, and currents, and tides on the coast af America; or, have kept so close to the land, on the west coast, of Greenland as to encounter the same obstacles." All this was very true, no doubt, as regarded the past, and, taken prophe- tically, has been proved unfortunately to be but too cor- rect,bythe result of the several attempts which havesince heenm9.6eton9.yi^aitetheae* more northerly straits.' Phoca m •■ *fef&."-i 102 was told too, " how little the influence of an Arctic suni' mer, even, is on fields of ice, perpetually surrounded by a freezing atnosphere created by themselves ;" and this Captain Parry has furnished us with facts quite suflficient to confirm ; particularly the one observed by him on the open and exposed beach of Point Nias. There, he says, •* the last years or sea ice, is at liberty to fix itself in the autumn, /orciw^ up the masses seen aground in all such situations, and increasing in the ensuing winter, to the thickness which we found it to be." Now here is the acknowledgement of owe year's ice being increased by the ne:Ft ensuing. Then why not an annual increase, till doomsday ?— 7 do not presume to say that such can be the result. But, on such authority, who will be bold enough to question the legitimacy of the inference, as far at least as it is applicable to ice aground mn northern shores of Arctic lands ? It is true, that Phoca, before his mind was enlightened by the knowledge of recent facts, took it into his head that there must be some probable cause, counteractive of the Quarterly Reviewer's ;>er/>c/M«//m^* and explained his ideas on that subject in one of his letters. He came to the conclusion that "it was more than probable, that the process of freezing and melting might be going on in the Arctic regions, on the same body of floating ice (if of magnitude to be sufficiently immersed) at the same time, and perhaps in winter as well as in summer :" for, from a few recorded facts, he deduced the probability of the progressive general decrease of the temperature of the sea from the surface downwards in the torrid and temperate zones ; and its progressive increase downwards in the frigid rones; both however being dependent on the atmospheric temperature at the time. He was further confirmed in this opinion by the results of two simple experiments, made in a deep 103 of an Arctic sum. y surrounded by a ielves ;" and this icts quite sufficient ved by him on the s. There, he says, to fix itself in the p-ound in all such ling winter, to the Now here is the ng increased by the nual increase, till y that such can be who will be bold ; inference, as far at •n northern shores :a, before his mind ' recent facts, took )me probable cause, er'a perpetual frost ; bject in one of his that " it was more reezing and melting igions, on the same e to be sufficiently 'haps in winter as recorded facts, he ive general decrease surface downwards ind its progressive les ; both however temperature at the this opinion by the made in a deep wooden vessel with a tin bottom. This being filled with common pump water, a red hot plate of iron was held close to its surface, to try the first case ; and a large piece of ice was used for trial of the i?econd case. He reserved to himself exceptions to these two general results, in the event of experiments being made on the sea's temperature, in soundings, and confined waters, near land : because each general result was found to be ma- terially afiected by putting ice to the outside of the bottom of the vessel, whilst heat was applied to the sur- face, in the first case ; and by putting heat at the bottom, whilst ice was applied to the surface, in the other case : and therefore thought it probable that the high temperature of the lands in the torrid, and perhaps the temperate zones, might in some degree be communicated to the bottom, in soundings, more especially in shoal and Confined waters, and thereby cause exceptions to the general rule, similar to thosie in the first case ; and in theArctic (and Antarctic) regions, under like circum- stances of locality, those similar to the second case. At page 448, in No. 36, Quarterly Review for June 1818, an extract from Davis's " World's Hydrographi- cal Description" is given, in confirmation perhaps of an opinion expressed by the Reviewer, five or six months before, as to " the little effect of even an Arctic summer, on fields of ice perpetually surrounded by a freezing atmosphere created by themselves ;" to establish also his doctrine of " i\\e perpetuity of the southern current" through " Baffin's Sea ;" and to^prove that " those who have formed their notions of this current from the re- veries of Saint Pierre, on the melting of the polar ice, have adopted very erroneous ideas on the subject:" for he attempts to show, on the authority of Mr. Scoresby's Meteorological Journal for 1812, to which m 1 ■j^i-.^-^Efrrj- •!.lt! .104 he refers M alte-Brun, (who had dared '♦ to convert an ice mountain into a marine current, by the effect of tlie solar rays,) that as much ice as the solar rays decom- posed on onfe side of such a mountain, would be re-com" posed, probably, on the other." This is at least one step towards self-refutation, as it admits the probably equal and simultaneous operation of the two opposite powers of heat and cold above water, on floating ice, which would consequently keep the quantity thert equal at all times. But the Reviewer noxi} wishes, it seems, to go further; and having since had a glimpse of some " new light," from ** Mr. Scoresby's communication to Sir Joseph Banks," and the " observations made in the Greenland seas on the temperature of the water at the surface, when that of the atmosphere, he takes it for granted, (but why, he does not say) was at or below the freezing point," which are inserted at page 453 and 4, he thinks it as well to look a little deeper. And also now, for the first time, perhaps, looking to the fair inference that has been already, or might be, drawii from his doc- trine of progressive everlasting congelation in the Arctic regions, he calls old Davis from the « vasty deep" to help him out with some fact to show that there » some other counteracting power in operation, under water also, to prevent that accumulation of ice, which " otherwise, in process of time, would freeze up the globe." Fortunately, and most opportunely, he was furnished with this hy old, Davis, who tells him that Ac had seen " an Ylande of^se tume up and downe be- cause it hatli melted so faste under water." On this grand and seemingly unexpected discovery, the saga- cious critic, in the name of his brethren, exclaims in rapture, " We have no doubt that Davis is right, and Id '• to convert an \y the effect of the lolar rays decom- J would be rc-com« \\a is at least one Imits the probably the two opposite r, on floating ice, le quantity tfiere ima, to go further ; ome " new light," ion to Sir Joseph in the Greenland er at the surface, :es it for granted, below the freezing 3 and 4, he thinks And also nowt for the fair inference rawri from his doc- 'ation in the Arctic i " vasty deep" to low that there a operation, under lion of ice, which iild freeze up the )ortnnely, he was rho tells him that up and downe he- water." On this covery, the saga- thren, exclaims in >avi8 is right, and IP^T""*^ 105 » ' that the action of the salt sea on ice, and not its decom* position by the solar rays, prevents an accumulation which would otherwise, in process of time, freeze up the globe ! ! " It would seein, however, entirely to have escaped the notice of this sage critic that Davis did not account for this melting of " the yse so faste under water," because the sea waa aalt, but owing *' to his heate of power to dissolve yse." The Reviewer might as well have told us what he meant by " the action of the talt sea on ice." It may have been the increased tern* perature of the sea, shown by the experiments of Dr. Irving and Mr. Scoresby; but if so, why apply the' needless term salt to the sea? He was not quite sure, then, perhaps, of the fact of an increasing temperature of the sea downwards ; as he deems " the few experiment^ in Phipps's Voyage wholly unsatisfactory," yet they must have made some impression on his belief. How> ever, he very prudently declines hazarding '* an opinion as to the cause of this warm stream," but leaves it to his readers **to ascribe'it'' to the ** submarine geysers " of Pennant, or to " the heated current from the Pacific, which probably loses nothing of its temperature in its passage among the active Volcanoes of the Aleutian Islands," and thence through Behring's Strait, and the Frozen Oceattt into the bai^ainl! Bless us! what an advantage it is to be a man of learning and a great traveller! what daring flights it enables the mind to take on the wings of a lively imagirfation ! The Edin- burgh Reviewer, in No. 69, observes on this subject, " that, contrary to what takes place under milder skies, the water dr.^ wn up from a considerable depth is warmer within the Arctic circle than what lies on the surface. Thejloati^tg ice accordingly begins to melt generally on the underside, from the slow communication of the heat Data. ' I -!) ■■; i^w i H ^WT'i f loe sent upwards." The Quarterly Reviewer says, "but we are rather inclined to consider it as the lighter water rising from an extreme depth to .the surface." Mr. Scoresby, in his account of the Arctic regions, published in 1820, says, at page 184, "As far as experiments have hitherto been made, the temperature of the sea has generally been found to diminish on descending. But in the Greenland sea, near Spitzbergen, the contrary is the fact. The results of the experiments he made for determining this interesting point were highly satis- factory ; the water being invariably warmer than that at the surface." A series of these experiments are ex- hibited in a table at p. 187. " They were all made in deep water, clear of land, and out of soundings^ the tem- perature of the air at the times being generally below, and seldom above 32 degrees of Fahrenheit." So much for the fact, which (being an unlearned man) is all / dare meddle with ; but as others may wish to see whe- ther Mr. Scoresby's attempts to account for the cause are more clear and satisfactory than those of the two rival Reviewers, I shall insert what he says at page 209, &c. "From the fact of the sea near Spitzbergen being usually six or seven degrees warmer, at the depth of 100 to 200 fathoms, than it is at the surface, it seems not improbable that the water below is a still farther ex- tension of the Gulf stream, which, on meeting with water near the ice, lighter than itself, sinks below the surface, and becomes a counter under current." And again, " From the circumstance of an under stratum of water, in the Spitzbergen sea, being generally warmer, by some degrees, than that at the surface, though of similar specific gravity, it would appear that the warmer water is, in this case, the most dernCt or why does it not rise and change places with the colder water at the le lewer says, "but the lighter water surface." Mr. egions, published as experiments ature of the sea \ on descending, ■gen, the contrary Timcnts he made were highly 8atis< %rmer than tliat at )eriments are ex- were all made in oundingSy the tem- f generally below, ■enheit." So much ned man) is all / r wish to see whe- >unt for the cause those of the two ; he says at page I near Spitzbergen rmer^ at the depth e surface, it seems a still farther ex- on meeting with f, sinks below the >r current." And under stratum of generally warmer, lurface, though of ir that the warmer T why does it not der water at the —^- 107 * • I surface?" I am sure 7 cannot say why ; and, my good reader, if you areiiot able to do so, perhaps one or other of the critics will assist you ; though I apprehend the Quarterly Reviewer will be somewhat puzzled by the question. For his warm water, brought all the way from the Pacific Ocean, happens to be lighter than that at the surface in the Arctic regions, and at an extreme depth too (as he of course can give a good reason for); but Mr. Scoresby's warm stream from the West Indies is heavier than that at the surface (or " of similar "spe-, cific gravity," for it is hard to say which he means), and therefore sinks underneath it, instead of rising like the Quarterly Reviewer s circumvolving current, " from an extreme depth to the surface." In the Edinburgh PhilosophicalJournal, No. 4, for April 18*20, is inserted an abstract of Mr. Scoresby's results ; also some ob- tained by Lieutenant Beechey, on board the Trent, in the Spitzbergen seas ; and others by Mr. Fisher on board the Dorothea. From these and other experiments made by Dr. Marcet, the Editor of that Journal observes, " In Ba$n's Bay, the Mediterranean sea, and the tropical seas, the temperature of the sea diminishes with the depth, according to the observations of Phipps, Ross, Parry, Sabine, Saassure, Ellis, and Peron ; but it is a remark- able fact, that in the Arctic or Greenland seas, the temperature of the sea increases with the depth. This singular result ^va8 first obtained by Mr. Scoresby, in a series of well-conducted experiments, and has been confirmed by the later observations of Lieutenants Franklin, Beechey, and Mr. Fisher." I however appre- hend, that the correctness of the Editor's observations will sometimes, perhaps, be impeached, by results a little- at variance with both these general rules, owing ..y w »» u i| c pefatur^ of the Greenland sea, I have invariably found it to be warmer below than at the surface. This aeception therefore is remarkable :" and Mr. Scoresby might have added singular too ; for it is perhaps the only experi- ment he ever made in soundings, which is quite suffi- cient to account for the exception. Mr. Scoresby adds : "« On ray first trial, made in 1810, in latitude 76° Itf, and longitude 9° east, the temperature at the depth of 1380 feet was found to be 33° 3' (by the water brought up), whilst at the surface it was 28° 8'. In one instance (the latitude being 70° and long. 5° 40' E.) there was an increase of 7° of temperature on descending 600 feet; and in another series of experiments, near the same place, an increase of 8° was found at the depth of 4380 feet What Kend«;rs this increase of temperature to land, d^th of atmosphere, coin- e time of making ture. Some few o the first general by Captain Hall ist of China, and letter ; and other be tbund among aigers in the Arctic by Mr. Scoresby, Northern Whale He says, at page r r and longitude r in 118 fcthoms; of the sea at the >m8 of the bottom, the air at the same ents upon the tera> ^e invariably found ace. This exception coresby might have s the only experi- lich is quite suffi- f r. Scoresby adds : in latitude 76° le', re at the depth of the water brought I'. In one instance 4(/ £.) there was Di descending 600 eriments, near the ind at the depth of ise of temperature 109 on descending in the Spitsbergen sea the more extraor. dinary, is the fact, that in almost all other regions of the globe, as far as observations have been made, a contrary law prevails, the sea being colder below than at the surface." But few or no experiments have been made yeiin the Antarctic sea ; and whenever they shall be, I have very little doubt but it will be found to be the same as it is in the Spitzbergen sea, progressively warmer in proportion to the depth, except in straits, deep bays, or inlets, and perhaps in soundings near land ; and that the cause, whatever it may be (as Mr. Scoresby says), which occasions the peculiar warmth in the Spitzbergeu sea, will produce the same effect in the Antarctic sea, though there we cannot have recourse, either to the circumvolvingcurrent, from the Pacific, of the Quarterly Reviewer, or the Gulf stream of Mr. Scoresby, to assist us to account for it. It was on the firm expectation that this warm temperature pf the Arctic seas would be found (though it appears Mr. Scoresby had dis- covered it to possess this, some time before), that Phoca presumed it might be continually dissolving ice under water ; yet still, on the whole, there might, by the process of freezing above, be an increase of ice in the frozen sea, but that the surplus was brought out by the Polar current round the N.£. part of Greenland; and that consequent- ly, " the general quantity of water in that sea remained nearbf the same at all times ; that is, taking the ice and water together, as an aggregate quantity." Though Capt. Parry has, as we have seen, acknowledged an increase of ice on the northam shores of Melville Island, he seems to be of opinion that the quantity oi floating ice is generally the same nearly, from what he observed in Winter Harbour. When there, on the 6th of July 1820, he says, at l * ^ j> !< Vi t ilti i fwatir i I ,*M ^|^^ n |l| _ l ^;«| l ■IT jMim . 1 J M ^ > . i m i i ig II i|li >ni, iiiwii»'i tio • page 217. *' In all cases we found the ice to be first thawed and broken up in the sboalest water, in con- sequence, I suppose, of the greater facility with which the ground, at a small depth below the surface of the sea, absorbed and radiated the sun's rays ; and as it is in such situations that water generally freezes first, this circumstance seems a remarkable instance of the pro- vision of nature for maintaining such a balance in the quantity of ice annual/if formed and dissolved^ as shall prevent any undue or extraordinary accumulation of it in any part of the Polar regions of the earth. Among the means also which nature employs in these regions to dissolve, during the short summer, the ice which has been formed upon the sea by the cold of winter, there appears to be none more efficacious than the numerous streams of water produced by the melting of the snow upon the land, which, for a period of at least six or seven weeks, even in the climate of Melville Island, are con- tinually discharging themselves into the ocean. On this account it would appear probable that the high land is more favorable to the dissolution and disper- sion of ice near its shores, than that which is lower, because it supplies a never-ceasing flow during the whole of the thawing season." Considering the quan- tity of land, already known to exist between the west side of Greenland and the coast of America, and gene- rally described high, this abundant dissolution there- from must, during that period, increase the quantity of fluid, and consequently occasion some current towards the south. I merely mention this now, as I shall per- haps in the course of this inquiry be able to bring forward the testimony of Captain Parry to prove the fact ; but not that the " short summer" dissolves all " the ice formed on the sea in winter." T r 3if the ice to be first est water, in con< icility with which the surface of the rays ; and as it is r freezes first, this stance of the pro- I a balance in the dissolved^ as shall accumulation of it e earth. Among ^s in these regions the ice which has d of winter, there han the numerous elting of the snow it least six or seven e Island, are con- » the ocean. On ible that the high ution and disper- it which is tower, ; flow during the sidering the quan- between the west merica, and gene- dissolution there- ise the quantity of ne current towards ow, as I shall per- be able to bring 'arry to prove the mer" dissolves all We have already seen that the grounds originally taken by the Quarterly Reviewer in favor of the exist- ence and practicability of a N.W. passage (of both which he did not then, still less does he now. entertain any doubt) are the following, which I shall agam call to the readers attention. • • Ist. The existence of a perpetual current setting down from the northward, from the Polar Basin, through Baffin's Sea, and Davis's Strait, into the Atlantic, with a velocity of four, and sometimes of five miles an hour. iJd. The non-existence of Baffin's Bay, as drawn in the charts. 3d. A circumvolving current, setting as perpetually " from the Pacific through Behring's Strait" into the Polar Basin, and out of it into the Atlantic; and « whose existence in his opinion affords the Iiest hope for the success of the expeditions engaged in exploring a passage into the Pacific''-by way of the Pole, as well as along the north coast of America. 4th. A great Polar sea, free from ice, near the Pole, if free from land. i * j • u Mr. Barrow, one of the secretaries at the Admiralty, appears, from what he says in his account of the voyages to the Polar regions, published in 1818, to have taken up the question precisely on the same grounds as the Reviewer. , Mr. Scoresby, in his account of the Arctic regions, published in 1820, enumerates some of these, and also considers them as probable grounds for supposing that such a passage may exist. Ellis's reasons, he sayi^, ap- pear to him to he " the most satisfactory." One of these, rather a curious one to be so " satisfactory," is « the direct testimony of the Indians, which tends to prove that they have seen the sea beyond the mountains. 1 and observed veueU navigating thereon I /*' Where, in the name of Hearen, cpald these vesaela have come from 7 or how could any have been therCt unleis they were the canoes of Esquimaux ? which it may be presumed Ellis did not understand these Indians to mean by what he termed vessels. Mr. Scoresby, on the whole, however, is rather ficep- tical on the practicability of such passage, " and even if it were discovered, he conceives it would be at intervals only of years that it would in all probability be open at all." Like a man of much experience and judgment, .lie says, ** the most certain (and I dare say he might have added the only) method of ascertaining the exist- ence of a communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific, along the northern shore of America, would doubtless be by journeys on land." This hint has been taken, and as far as it goes, successfully acted on. If followed up as it is now reported it will be^ this ** grand question," I have not the slightest doubt, vnll be solved: but by any ship or ships, without the aid of expeditions by land— it will remain as it now is, a matter of doubt. Let us now examine.thefour grounds of argument in favor of the practicability of a N.W. passage for ships. Fhoca attempted, in the first instance, before the ex- peditions sailed, to disprove them all, (and I think with some success) except the 4th, which he thought proba- ble, but desired further proof, which is still wanting. Mr. Scoresby disputed none but the 4th, and his reasons for not believing that there is an open sea clear of ice about the Pole, I shall examine in the proper place. But let us first try the validity of all these four grounds or arguments, by the test of the experience of |/" Where, in the lave come firom T ^88 they were the presumed Ellis lean by what he is rather seep. " and even if be at intervals •bability be open :e and judgment, are say he might aining the exist- be Atlantic and America, would This hint has BSsfuUy acted on. d it will be^ this ightest doubt, wilt without the aid of as it now is, a ds of ailment in massage for ships, ce, before the ex- [and I think with le thought proba- is still wanting, he 4th, and his an open sea clear ' line in the proper of all these four he experience of 113 those navigators, who have recently visited the north Polar regions. 1st. "The existence of a perpetual current, setting down from the northward, from the Polar Basin, through Baffin's 8ea, and Davis's Strait, into the Atlantic, with a velocity of four, and sometimes five miles an hour." Although the already noticed candid declaration of the Reviewer, that ' he now knows there is such a bay av that of Baffin,' &c. and he said, before he believed it, that i/there were such a bay, ' it would be difficult to explain how anif current could originate at the bottom of il,' would seem to render it superfluous to prove that there is no suck current, yet though I shall produce the testi- mony to that effect, of one whom he has had no reason to doubt, I must state the currents as I find them mentioned in Captain Ross's Voyage, from the day he passed the parallel of Cape Farewell, during his passage up' to the head of Baffin's Bay, and down it again till he got off the entrance of Cumberland Strait. On 23d of May, in lat. 57° 2' and longitude 43" 2', Captain Ross says : ' This evening I remarked the appearance of a current, and the next day ascertained by hoisting out our boat, that it set W.N.W. (true) at the rate of a quarter of a mile an hour.' On the 24th ' the N. W. current was still manifest.' On the 26th of May, in latitude 58° 36', and long. 51° W. 'The latitude agreed, but we had been set by a current a few miles to the westwfird' On the 27th, ' a copper cylinder with a detail of dur situation was thrown overboard near a very large icebei^, in lat. 61° N. and long. 53" 25', which we passed at 9 p,.m. It apparently dxifted to the westward, though we could perceive no current.' June 1st, in lat. 63° 41', long. 55° 42', * no effect of a current was apparent, and having gained .three miles Data. P 114 of latitude, it seemed evident there could be no current : tvhich appeared surprising, as the wind had blown for three successive days directly down the strait,' that is, from the northward. On the 5th of June, lat. 65° 46', and long. 55° W. 'a boat was anchored to try for a current, but none was perceptible.' July 3d, in lat. 71° 33' and long. 56° 2', ' by mid-day we had made a degree of latitude through a channel apparently void of any current,* July 10th, ' we continued in the midst of the ice, which was carrying us fast to the northward' August 13th, lat. 75° 54', long. 65° 53', • it is worthy of remark, that here, as on the whole of this coast north- ward of 70°, we found the deepest water near the land, and that no current was found.' August 23d, ' the sun's meridional altitude was ob- served on the iceberg, and the latitude found to be 76° 37', the iceberg having drifted three miles to the north- ward: September 1st, lat. 73° 37', long. 77° 25', • to observe the current, the line was dropped over again, and the transit bearings of two objects on the land set ; these however did not vary in the least, nor did we find any current by the line.' * My orders to stand well to the north' had been already fully obeyed, and no current had been found ; and if * a current of some force' did exist, as from • the best authorities' we had reason to believe was the fact, it could be no where but to the southward of this latitude: On the 6th of September, in lat. 72° 23', and long. 73° 7', *wo current was found.' September 30, lat. 64° 10', and longitude 63° 5', ' we found by our reckoning that the cuiTcnt had set us twenty-five miles totheN.E. during the last 24 hours.' Thus, according to Captain Ross, wo CMrre«//rom y our reckoning milea to t he N.E. rding to Captain iver experienced; 6 detected, it set E. Let us now see what Captain Parry discovered in his subsequent voys^v, as far to the northward as the entrance of Lancaster Sound. On the 26th of June 1819, ' in lat. 63° 59' and longitude 01° 48', in 125 fathomi, the deep sea line in> dicated a drift to the S. by W.' July 1 Uh, * we sounded at noon in 202 fali.oms, lat. (>9'' 24' and longitiv«e 58° 16'; not allowing current, which for tlie three preceding days had appeared to set the ships to the S.it.E. at from 8 to 13 miles per day.' July 20th, lat. 72° 57', long. 58° 41', in 120 fathoms, the ships drift to S.S, W: July 24th, lat. 72° 59' and longitude 60° 8', ' ships drift to S. T E. 41 miles in 24 hours^ depth of water 260 fathoms.' On the 30th July, noon, latitude 74° l', ' being the first meridional altitude taken for four days, and differ- ing only two miles from the dead reckoning ;* which is remarkable, considering the sluggishness of the com> passes ; and would seem to afford a presumptive proof that ' no southerly current exists in this part of Baffin's Bay.' Further to the southward, however, in the narrow- est part of Davis's Strait, he appears from the foregoing extracts to have met with a very small set of current from the northward. We will now refer to his observa- tions when returning firom Lancaster Sound, homeward bound. On the 3d of September, in latitude 71° 24', ' being only 2 miles and j to the southward of the dead reckon- ing in three dayst we considered that there could be no current of any importance setting in that direction on this part of the coast.' September 4th, ' the latitude observed was 71° 2' 42", agreeing to within a mile of the account ; so that no current could well have existed since the pre- ceding day's observation.' September ^th, in latitude 6P° 24', long. 67° 5',in 35 fathoms, 5 or 6 miles from the land. rTSi-.wwwais*^«i*in>,-- L ■i- . i lie Captain Parry says, * found the current running sdme- wbat less than a mile an hour, in a S.iE. direction. At 4 30' P.M. it was again tried, and found to set to the S.E. at the rate of J of a mile per hour ; and at 7 o'clock, when we hove to near Cape Katerfor the Griper to join us, we found it to be slack water ;' which proves this to have been a tide stream^ and not a current. On the 1 1th of September, at noon, in lat. 69° 19', and long. 66" 6', in 275 fathoms : * It must here be remarked, that for each of the last three days, and /or these only, we had found the ship between 7 and 8 miles to the southward of the reckoning.' September 25th, at aoon, in latitude OS" 13', ' being 2 miles and | to the southward of the dead reckoning, which difference had occurred on each of the 12 preceding days.' From all these facts it is quite clear that no such current as the Quarterly Reviewer imagined, was ibund— indeed scarcely any worth men- tion ; and certainly, what little was detected either in Baffin's Bay, or Davis's Strait, could hardly have origi- nated in his circumvolving current from the Pacific through Behring's Strait and the Polar Sea : nay, there was no such thing as a permanent current/row the west- ward found in any part, even of Lancaster Sound, and Barrow's Strait, if the authority of Captain Parry is suf- ficient to show it. He sums up the matter in these words: "Of the current which we experienced in Davis's Strait, and Baffin's Bay. It would appear that daring the Summer and Autumn, there is in this part a considerable set to the southward. In judging of the causes which produce this general tendency of the aeiper- ficial current, it will be proper to bear in mind two fects, which we have had occasion to remark in the course of this and the preceding voyage; first, that in a sea much encumbered with ice, a current is almost invaria- ;^';»itefe°^»ig^-!i=i'^^fe^j^j^»t^psa^^^ *i »M!W^e»^» '^ it running^ 8«me- E. direction. At md to set to the and at 7 o'clock, the Griper to join ich proves this to ent. On the 1 1th and long. 66" 5', marked, that for kese orUtf, yre had to the southward aoon, in latitude iward of the dead ed on each of the i facts it is quite larterly Reviewer f any worth men- detected either in hardly have origi- from the Pacific ir Sea : nay, there rrent from the west- laster Sound, and [)tain Parry is suf- e matter ia these } experienced in ivould appear that 3 is in this part a fn judging of the lencyofthe«2«j»er- in mind two facts, k in the course of 9t, that in a sea is almost invaria- 'aet*B^3W^>&i:-_5rr .^-^ v/ ■• — 117 bly produced, immediately on the springing up of every breeze of wind ; and, secondly, that in several instances where the ships have been beset in the ice, the directioti of the daily drift has been the point of the compass di> rectly opposite to that of the wind,'whether the latter was from the northward or the southward. ** It appears to me, upon the whole, that the southerly current which we have been enabled to detect, is not more than may be caused by the balance of the northerly winds, added to the annual dissolution of lai^e quantities of snow, which finds the readiest outlet into the Atlan- tic. In the Polar sea, to the westward of Barrow's Strait, no current has been found to exist beyond that which is evidently occasioned by different winds. In every part which we had an opportunity of visiting, the tides, though small, appear to be as regular as in any part of the world." Thus the Reviewer's first ground has be^i annihilated by proof positive. The second he has himself confessed to be so, by the same proof. With respect to the third, *' a circumvolving current setting as perpetually from the Pacific through Behring's Strait into the Polar basin, and out of it into the Atlantic," £cc. the foregoing facts show that -none of it was found in the whole space between the west coast of .Greenland and the meridian of 113" 46' 43^' 5 in ht. 74" 46' 25", which was the farthest point Captain Parry reached ; when the Reviewer says, " After struggling till the 16th, Captain Parry determined to .eturn to the eastward along the edge of the ice, with, the intention of availing himself of any opening that might occur, to get to the southward, and, if possible, upon the coast of America." Not perhaps, for the purpose o( ** seeking,*' like Captain Ross, as the Reviewer tells him, " for his circumvolving current ;" but for, what Captain Parry ^considered a ■11 118 much better reason, which I shall have occasion to mention by-and-by, as he assigned it at the time, and on a subsequent occasion ; especially as the Reviewer has repeated it in terms of approval §nd acquiescence. He may also have an eye to the discovery of this favo- rite current of his ; for as it had not been found, either by Ross or Parry, any where within the limits I have before mentioned, its progress from Behring's Strait (if it exist beyond it) through channels of communication, between the " Polar basin" and the Atlantic must, of course, be sought for hereafter, on parallels between Mel- ville Island and the coast of America : for we cannot be surprised at the Reviewer's anxiety to get hold of a current, "whose" very " existence in his opinion affords the best hope for the success of the expeditions engaged in exploring a passage into the Pacific." That there certainly is a temporary and " trifling" superficial cur- rent in Behring's Strait to the northward, Phoca has admitted ; and so do I» though totally inadequate to supply that which is knowii to set to the southward, continually, out of the Polar sea, through the Spitzber- gen sea, into the Atlantic ; even if it were possible to believe that the waters of the Pacific composed any part of it. Mr. Scoresby appears (as I before observed) to believe in the existence of the Reviewer's circumvolv- ing current, or at least that of " a sea communication" between the Pacific and " the Atlantic." As to the latter, for water and fish, I admit it mat/ be very possi- ble, somewhere in the space between Melville Island and the north coast of America, which yet remains to be explored. Mr. Scoresby is of the same opinion as the Reviewer, chiefly for the same reasons; one of which is, because "it is presumed that worm-eaten drift- wood, found in the Arctic countries, is derived from .,>n- . tssns,' ^'-ffjstai.i^^e- '•' llOv ve occasion to t the time, and as the Reviewer id acquiescence, ery of this favo- !en found, either the limits I have ihring's Strait (if communication, Atlantic must, of Uels between Mel- : for we cannot to get hold of a is opinion affords editions engaged fie." That there ' superficial cur- vard, Phocahas ly inadequate to [) the southward, ugh the Spitzber- ; were possible to c composed any before observed) vet's circumvolv- communication" tic." As to the ay be very possi- Melville Island yet remains to be ae opinion as the is; one of which rorm-eaten drift- is derived from I a trans-polar region," as he supposes one log was which I " he ol^erved in 1817, on the Island of Jan Mayen.'- I Now, at page 209 of his '* Account of the Arctic Ro- I gions," Mr. Scoresby has informed us, that " From I the coast of Britain, the northern branch of the Gulf- stream probably extends superficially along the shore of Norway. About the North Cape, its direction ap* pears to be changed by the influence of a westerly current from Nova Zembia, so that it afterwards sets to the N. W. as high as the borders of the ice, and thus operating against the polar current setting to the south' ward." I should like to know Mr. Scoresby's authority for this movement of the superficial waters towards the W* and N.W. from Nova Zembia. However, as he of course believes, or knows it to be so, I would ask him if, by the aid of such a medium, the worm-eaten drift- wood he saw on Jan Mayen's Island might not have been brought from the West Indies, by this much shorter^ and more probable route than the other? - The polar current, Mr. Scoiesby (page 4,) informs us, ■" flows, he is well assured, during nine months of the year, if not all the year round, from the N.E., towards the S. W. The velocity of this current may be from 4 to 20 miles a day, varying in different situations, but is most con- siderable near the coast of Old Greenland." Here, then, is the perfectly well authenticated fact of a perpetual current out of the Polar sea. It is acknowledged by the Reviewer in various parts of his writings, and par- ticularly pointed out by Mr. Barrow, at page 377 of his Voyages to the " Polar Regions." — Now, this perpetual current to the southward, out of the Polar Sea, must \i2i\e a cause. TAa/ cause, whether it be what Phoca attempted to prove it to be, or any other^ would, doubt- less, produce a similar current from the Polar sea to- |w f i 1«Q wards the Atlantic, through at^ channels of communi> cation v/bich, may em/ from the west side ef Greenland to tlie coast of America, in quantity and velocity propor- tionate to the dimensions of such channels.—- Phoca, disbelieving the existence of any such current in the space called " Baffin's Sea," by the Reviewer, rationally concluded that therefore there must be either laud or shoals north of that space. The subsequent proof of Baffin's veracity, and con- sequently there being in fact no such current, either there, or in the space westward, as far as Melville Island, proves, that there can be no channel* of communi- cation in that space betw*^n the Polar Sea and the Atlantic, even for water in any considerable quantity ; much less (or sJiips* The Reviewer, however, is of a very different opinion. He thinks there may be a passage to the northward into the Polar sea through Wellington Channel ; because, when the ships passed its southern entra«ce, it was " free from every .particle of ice, as far as the eye could reach, on a remarkably clear day ;" and therefore, if the ships had proceeded up that chan- nel, wherever it led to, the sea beyond would also have been as clear Had open. I admit it to be very possible, that the northern opening of such channel may be found clear of ice, as well as the southern ;prot;i<^ other lands lie to the northward of it. For one of my aiigur ments is, that the northern shores of all Arctic lands, w "well as the northern entrances of all channels formed lietween them, if no land exist north of thentt are, and of necessity must bct continually more or less encum- bered with heavy polar ices; extending from those lands towards the north polar axis of the globe. And that too, whether around tt as a centre, there may be some expanse of open sea, as the Reviewer, and mapy • mjnjtt I , %^ ■'^■■i»iif ! i^^£J^»g!^C---^\»4!j:^fe■fe4^.■ii ' A ' l^ ^ — nels of commuiii* side ef Greenland d velocity propor- lannels.— Phoca, ch current in the eviewer, rationally be either laud or ireracity, and con- ch current, either IS far as Melville annels of communi- ?olar Sea and the iderable quantity; [>wever,isofa very Day be a passage to through Wellington )a88ed its southern irticle of ice* as far kably clear day ;" ieded up that chan- nd would also have to be very possibki li channel may be bern ; provided other or one of my ai^i^ all Arctic land^^w 11 channels formed h of thetttt arct and )re- or less encum- ending from those of the globe. And •ntre, there may be ^viewer, and msyiy ■ ■.jft«N i .J > *)» ar .i i »»- ' S ti ■ CT^'S'A' otbelw suppose, loiMoirt icff, or whether tliere b^, as Mn Seoneaby concludes, (page 311,) ''A continent of ice«> mountains, existing in regions near the Pole, yet unex- plored, the nucleus of which may be as ancient as the earth itself, and its increase derived from the sea and atmosphere combined** — for it is quite immaterial to my argument which theory may be correct. The only facts I require are, first, the existence of heavy polar ices ; and, secondly, the certain general nunement of these icea, from the north towards the south, in all the regions surrounding the Pole, as long as they are at liberty to do so, by the combined infloence of the polar current* and ^inds prevailing from the same quarter. These factst it is quite notorious, all parties are agreed in / ukd liave been acknowledged, over and over again, by the Reviewer, Mr. Scoresby, Mr. Barrow in his Voyages into the Polar Regions, Mr. Fnber, and Capb. Parry, in thdr respective publications. The Quarterly Reviewer, in his notice of Capt. Parry's Voyage^ seemed to be more than ever con&'med inbis.opinion of an open Polar Sea by that of Dr. Brewster, who, '* after comparing the results of the. expedition under Capt. Pany with those he had drown fl-om a previous theory,*^ is of opinion " that the hopes which have been so reo^ sonab^ entertained of reachiiSg the Pole itself, are theKiby encouraged ;" concluding that " the mean tem« perature of the Pole of the globe will be 1 1", income parably warmer than the r^ions in whidi Capt. Parry spent the winter." The Doctor adds, « if the Pole i« (bc^ placed in an open sea, the difficulty <^ readung it entirely ceases/' Thus supported in his epiwen of aclear, open, and navigable Polar Sea, by that of **ali< the Greenland*- mea^" {eseq4 Mr. Scoresby^ and the themy of the Data. Q 12-2 I learned Doctor into tlie bargain, and having assured us^ that he considered *' the knowledge acquired on the late expedition to have afforded a sanguine hope for the complete solution of the interesting question of a north-vrest passage," I must confess I expected he had perhaps recommended the higher powers to make another attempt by way of the Pole: especially as all the original motives for sending Captain Buchan that way, must have been evidently strengthened in his mind, by the recently acquired knowledge. Nothing in fact having happened that could possibly tend to weaken them, except Capt. Bnchan's failure, owing " to one of those accidents to which all sea voyages are liable;" unless indeed Mr. Scoresby's book may have acted as a sort of damper to the " sanguine hope" in that quarter, if ever the Reviewer has condescended to read auch passages as these. V At page 4d of Scoresby's account of the Arctic Regions, he says, " Were the mean temperature of the Pole, indeed, above the freezing point of sea water, and the mean heat of latitude 78° as high as 33° or 34°, then the circumpolar seas would have a chance of be- ing free from ice: but while the temperature of the former can be shown to be about 18°, and the latter 11° below the freezing temperature of the sea, we can have no reasonable ground, I conceive, for doubting the continual presence of ice in all the regions imme- diately surrounding the Pole." And at page 54 : " If the masses of ice which usually prevent the advance of navigators beyond the 82nd degree of north latitude be extended in a continued series to the Pole (of which, tmless there be land in the way, I have no doubt), the expectation of reaching the Pole by sea must be alto< gether chimerical^ Now, if we take Mr. Scoped>y to be V -J. m ' in\r-':i.M^.^-j^ - -': ' :ij^iia-\^' t m^ Bt^fei ^siissss3 3 stmH^^ tving assured as, acquired on the nguine hope for g question of a |s I expected he powers to make ipecially as all the uchan that way, in his mind, by Nothing in fact tend to weaken owing " to one of ages are liable;" lay have acted as le hope" in that lescended to read nt of the Arctic temperature of the int of sea water, high as 33° or 34°, ire a chance of be- imperature of the 18°, and the latter f the sea, we can iive, for doubting the regions imme- 1 at page 54 : '< If snl the advance of f north latitude be e Pole (of which, ive.no doubt), the sea must be alto- MEr. Scored)y to be ;jii» ' .*il9» iil »<|jj j n'tt ^aaa»sa^ - 128 right in bis conjecture that " there is a continent of ice- mountains in the regions near the Pole, unless there be land in the way," what must there be between it and the place where Capt. Parry wintered at, which, accord- ing to Dr. Brewster's theory, is 11° or 12° colder than the Pole, or, as the Reviewer says we may conclude, " one of the coldest spots on the face of the globe 1" Ac- cording to Mr. Scoresby, in this case there roust be a frozen Ocean, north of lands surrounding that Ocean, if there be no other land between them and the pole ; which is very far beyond what Phoca has ventured to suppose the ice extended. On the other hand, our oracle the Reviewer says, " If we suppose that clusters of Islands continue to be scattered over it (the Polar Sea) on all sides, to the very Pole, or its vicinity, we •shall in that case probably not be far from the fact, in .concluding the whole of this extensive sea to be shal- low, choked up with ice, and unnavigable." According to this authority, then, this Polar Sea is to be choked up with ice, if there be land. So that, take either view^ or combine both, we can come at nothing but ice, ice, ioe, all along the northern shores of Arctic lands, and a frozen ocean to some indefinite extent to the north- ward of the northernmost of thoae lands. Being obliged, at this rate, to give up the idea of any further attempts being intended by way of the Pole, as perhaps the Reviewer himself had done long before, I next con- sidered what other particular knowledge bad been ac- quired on the late expedition, to aflford this " sanguine hope," and whereabo .ts the Reviewer could reasonably expect it to be realized. I could hardly suppose he would recommend another trial to be made to the northward in Baffin's Bay ; " because it is now known Ihat there is such a bay." Nor by the route last pursued »i, 114 l<^ ii- by Gapt. Parry, although, Jo/or, anccnsAilly ; beoause *' he did not think that the strennoui, bat nnsnceeMful endeavors of the late expedition, in two different sea- sons, to penetrate to the westward of Melville Island, aflforded any hope that the passage will ever be efTected in that particular parallel of latitude : nor by the Wel- lington Channel " in the first instance," though he says " it may be desirable to look at the state of the Polar sea beyond it, hereafter.*" But, above all others, it never could be supposed that he would recommend the attempt to be made by way of Hudson's Strait and Bay, who had reprobated the very idea from the first. Nay, he had recorded his decided opinion that '* all former attempts had failed, because not one of them was ever made near that part of the coast of America, round which, it is most likely the passage would lead into the northern or frozen ocean," a froxen ocean (by the by), which he then believed to be without ice. And because ''hitherto most of our adventurers have worked their way through Hudson's Strait, which is generally choked up with ice ; then, standing to the northward, have had to contend wiUi ice drifting to the southward, with contrary winds and currents ;" and '* the most northerly straits and iriande, which form the passages into Hudson's Bay, -are of course never firee from mountains and patches of ice ; and yet fA\ navigators proceeding on discovery have either entered these Straits and had to struggle against the ice and currents, and tides on the coast of Amoica, or, &c." If we may judge from the late second fruitless at^ tempt of Capt. Parry, to discover a passage that way, the Reviewer's early judgment, in this particular in- stance, has unfortunately been but too correct. For .although Captain Parry did not, as far as Ihe ->i^Vii»; ' V '^id '^-" 19ft Init nnsnceeMful |two diflferent tea- Melville Island, Wever beeflfeoted nor by the Wel- )»" tbongh he says itate of the Polar ▼e all others, it recommend the ison's Strait and dea from the first, opinion that ** all rt one of them was of America, ronnd oald lead into the ocean (by the by), ice. And becanse e worked their way nerally choked np ward, have had to ardf with contrary it northerly straits ;e8 into Hudson's 1 mountains and Drs proceeding on I Straits and had ?nts, and tides on ?cond fruitless at- passage that wmf^ his particular in- correct, lot, as far as the nempapen tell us, meet with any greater diAcfiltiea tlian the annual ships of the Nortii-West Company gene- rally do, in Hudson's Strait ; yet, after entering Hud- son's Bay, he, like most of our adTenturers^ had tr "^n- tend, not merely " with ice drifting to the 8outhwa»d/f but was obstructed in his advance 'towards the NlW. by the Repulse Bay of Middleton, whose testimony to its existence, it appears, was doubted by himself as well as the reviewer, who says, Middleton " looked into what he was pleased to call Repulse Bay :" a name, however, which has now become doubly appropriate, as well as the Bay of Baffin. It may be ajllowed us to presume^ that the Quarterly Reviewer, who recorded his decided judgment against making any future attempt, where all former ones had failed, could not have been comulted before it was resolved to send Captain Parry by /Aaf twy route. For as nothing had been done, or become known, between the ]rears 1817 and 1821, to alter the grounds of his judgment in that particular, he could not, it may be supposed, have been so inconsistent as to have approved in the latter year, what he so decidedly condemned in the former. . He may,,however, have been persuaded to concur in the opinion of others, contrary to what appears to have been his own better judgment in this particular instance. Indeed the writer of th« critique on Captain Parry's first Voyage, ia the 49th No« of the Quarterly Review, says, (whilst the last ex- pedition was pending,) Captain Parry " has recorded his opinion in favour of its accomplishment, and A»a«;^r gestion has no doubt been adopted on the .present voy- age:" and "itcanscarcely be doubted then, that the attempt is now about to be made, as recommemkd by Captain Parry, in a more southern latitude, and close along the north coast of America, where they may tea- !' i^6 sonably hope to meet with a better summer climate, and a longer peason for their operations, bj at least six weeks."''''" *ii > -.t' .' ■•/ ; i* ■■.!'•' - Here then vre find that the ' sahgiiine hope* was Fully expected to be realized on the north coast of America, if Captain Parry had been fortunate enough to reach it by way of Hudson's Bay, and any of its northern straits. But he found those he examined blocked up with ice, ivhich the Reviewer told us long ago they were ' never Iree from.' I have not heard whether any of the Re< viewer's mountains of ice' were met with there. How- ever, we shall hear when Captain Parry's account of his last voyage comes out, which I am very anxious to see, in the hope of getting some more light thrown on the subject ; though I must confess that hope is not very san- guine as far as regards what ;^:ay, or may not, be here- after effected along the north coast of America. In the mean time, whilst the next expedition is pending, which I am told is to proceed by way of Lancaster Sound and down Prince Rq^nt's Inlet, towardsthat coast, let us try the strength and solidity of the reasons given by the Reviewer, in his critique on Captain Parryts voyage, as well as those pi; HUshed by Captain Parry himself. The Reviewer in roatyy passages has nearly quoted that offi- cer's words/ and as some of his opinions are the same, (though others very diflferent,) they may be considered tus' jointly belonging to both : the one by original sug- jgestion^ and the other by adoption. I shall quote from ■both, and octsasionally compai^tr.»?»a fMv««'wif gwwt ;;a f'J t- -li^rt •xjt mt**i r I In the first place, Captain Parry says, at pa< 142, " I began to consider whether it would not be Mi tUe, whenever the ice would allow us to move, to sacrifice a few nliles of the westing we had already made, and run along the margin of the floes, in order to. endeavour to find an opening leading to the southward ; by taking ad-* vantage of which we might be enabled to prosecute the voyage to the westward in a lower latitude. I was tb^ more inclined to make this attempt from its having long be- come evident to us, that the navigation of this part of the Polar Sea is only to be performed by watching the occa^ sional openings between the ice and the shore : and that therefore a continuity of land ia essential, if not absolutely necessary for the purpose. Such a continuity of land, which was here about to fail us, must necessarily he futt nished by the northern coast of America^ in . whatever latitude it may be found." Again, at page 287, Captain Parry says, " Our experience, I think, has clearly shown that the navigation of the Polar Seas can never be peh- formed with any degree of certainty without a con^tmit/y of land. It was only by watching the occasional openiifgs between the ice and the shore that our late progreiss to the westward was effecteAttia^. had the land continuid in the desired direction^ there: can be no question that; wfe should have continued to advance, however sloivly, towards the completion of our enterprise^" "lb this respect therefore, as well as in the improvement to beea^ pected in the climate, there would be a manifest advantage in making the attempt on the coast of America, where we are sure that land will not fail us." In both these ex- tracts it is declared that a continuity ^f land is essential, i*' not absolutely necessary. A continuity, where? and how situated, as to the westward course to be steered by ships ? Why a continuity, such as the North Georgian JP^'imfr- I ■^>^^BE^S!»ss^rmmise::i f.g g ^ttr,"-'-' ■ I JBU I i | « " 188 Iildndf, lying contiguous to each other, nearly east and west, on a parallel, twrtht or on the atarboard hand of that counie. But why should it lie in thai direction, and be situated north ef that course f Because such a continuity did in fact enable the ships to proceed as far ofi/y to the westward as it extended, but nu farther. How did it enaUe them to do so ? By (ircKecting them from polar ices, such as were met with at the west end of MeU ville Island ; where, Captain Parry says, ** had the land continued in the desired direction^ there can be no question that we should have continued to advance towards the completion of our enterprise." The Quarterly Reviewer says, " tlie heavy ice found there was owing probably to th& discontinuance of iasui, or to XYm prevailing northerly winds hu^ia^ driven down the main body of ice and waited it in among the IslaudA." This was a discontinu- ance, rfland on Jhe north of the ship's course ; and the adcaewledgmeat of the.ioe *< having' been driven ■dfifffu'^ inplies the belief that there must be a fertile •upplyivom that quarter, and what Captain Parry terms • posr^r in constant operation of *' enormous pressure" !• hoore thus r "wedged: it m among the Islands." Mn Fisher, whom I htMre quoted, before, seems to have had a much cleareri^nGeption of this matter, at the time .and plaoe^ than any 'Of his- shipmates. His words are decidedly to ^ point, at page 99 : " I think it is pro- -bable, as long as we find land to the northward, to stop ike polar ice from drifting down upon us, that we shall find la passage to the westward aJong the land. I do ne( mean, however, to say that, a passage will, without .any interruption, >be constantly found to exist between 4be land and the ice; on the contrary, I am aware that a southerly wind may give un occasional checks, by forcing the ice in with the coast ; but imined lately, the ^ :s; ! :JH- ■-, • •^^ y, . vj),;,a ^ . j g e^.j j . I 130 Mier, nearly east le starboard hand in thai direction, Because such a to proceed lufar It no farther. How tectinf them from west end of Mel. 3>8, •• had the iand !an be no question 'ance towards the iiarterly Reviewer owing probably Prevailing northeriy body of ice and ) was a diecontim- B course ; and the ing' been driven must be a fertile iptain Parry terms Dornious pressure" mg the Islands." »re, seems to have matter, at the time His words are ' I think it is pro- northward, to stop Uif that we shall the land. I do sage will, without to exist between , I aim aware 4hat tional checks, by timined lately, the wind chani^es to the opposite direction, it will neces- sarily have the contrary effect. This is not indeed a matter of speculation, nor do 1 intend it to be consi- dered as such ; for both ihis and the last year's experi- ence have afforded us so many instances of the truth of what I have said, that I have no hesitation in giving it as my opinion, that the vicinity of land to the north' waru will always be in our favor. My object in being so particular on this point is, because there are some amongst us of quite a different opinion" Mr. Fisher does not particularly name any who thus differed from him in this opinion, which he had so justly formed ; but it would appear that Captain Parry himself, before he reached Wellington Channel, regarded this " continuity of land to the northward" of him, with " uneasiness, prin- cipally from the possibility that it might take a turn to the southward and unite with the coast of America ;" not being then aware, as he afterwards learr.t by ex- perience that such continuity was " essential, if not ab- solutely necessary, for the navigation of this part of the Polar Sea ;" and as I dare say it will be for the navi- gation of that part of it, from the meridian of Prince Regent's Inlet to that of Icy Cape. We have seen already where andtxet/m/ this continuity was, as well as its importance to the ships, as far as it extended. That importance was fully proved by the insurmountable icy obstruction which they met with at its western extremity. And yet Captain Parry says, and tiie Reviewer repeats it : ** Such continuity of land as was here about to fail us, must necessarilyhe furnished by the northern coast of America, in whatever latitude it may be found." "There would be a manifest advantage in making the attempt on the coast of America, where we are sure Data. R: C5F»?»" *Sir/- ■'r-i.v.IiiJjf > ■■•^jr^K^ij^ *■ * ".^fi: - if.-c^'^- ^•i.-'^mi^r- . r . 4, . f -.Lmjii i i i I ■ • wi^ififi(.i«» I 'i ^' i ^v i ttiv^ i t^--,-,.' ' 180 that land will mt fail us" If the Reviewer alone had made such an observation as the first, it need not have surprised one ; but that Captain Parry himself, with the facts of his experience before him, should not only have written but published the same, is indeed somewhat unexpected ; for the two cases cannot possibly have any feature alike, except as regards the term continuity applied to them, and perhaps being so, in both having a direction nearly east and west. Though there must be continuity of land on the coast of America, yet surely it cannot be such a continuity as that formed by the North Georgian Islands, which failed Caplaia Parry at the west end of Melville Island: -because the coast of America is on the larboard hand, or to the southward oi ships steering to the westward, and consequently to leeward, as the prevailing winds are from the northward. On the contrary, the continuity formed by the North Georgian Islands is to the northward, or on the star- board hand, of ships so steering, and therefore to wind- ward. As to situation, then, they are only as opposite as north and south. Fut in other and far more im- portant points they are quite the reverse of each other. The chain of lands extending from Baffin's Bay, on the north of the passage discovered by Captain Parry, acted as a barrier against the polar ices, which, it is confessed by all the authorities I quote, are driven from north to south, hy the combined power of the polar current and **^the prevailing northeriy winds." The southern shores of those lands ti&ing weather shores, (or having the wind blowing from them,) were conse- quently found to be comparatively free from ice. Nor in truth was there, in the whole extent of that passage, any such heavy polar ice met with, as was found near the west end of Melville Island. But what was the state of the northern coast of Melville Island, which was a lee 131 ieioer alone had need not have himself, with the Id not only have deed somewhat t possibly have le term continuity >, in both having ough there must nerica, yet surely t formed by the Captain Parry at :ause the coast of ) the southward of consequently to m the northward. Bd by the North If or on the star- therefore to wind' ! only as opposite and far more im- rse of each other. )m Baffin's Bay, ered by Captain polar ices, which, quote, are driven ower of the polar y winds." The ; weather shores, ;»!,) were conse* e from ice. Nor t of that passage, } was found near vhat was the state [], which was a lee shore, as the winds are proved to prevail ? Captain Parry has>tpld us what he observed at Point Nias. Nay, what was the state of the shores /aciw^ the north of the lands forming the south side of that passage, and extending from Prince Regent's Inlet to Banks's land, at what- ever distance those lands may be from the North Geor- gian Islands ? Those lands were not seen all the way in continuity, but there must be land there sufficiently contiguous to prevent the field ice even from moving fur- ther to the southward than it was observed to do from the North Georgian Islands ; and if there should be no land nearer to those Islands than the coast of America itself, that coast must be the impediment, and the ice will be, in all human -probability, found to be continuous quite to that coast. Now, let us see what answer Captain Parry will/umish to the last question, as to the state of the ice to the southward. It has already been seen, at page 142 of Captain Parry's Voyage, that, when he first met with such decided obstruction, near the west end of Melville Island, he " was desirous of finding an opening in the ice leading to the southward, by taking advantage of which, he might be enabled to prosecute the voyage to the xvestward in a lower latitude" At page 250, he de- scribes the ice to the W. and W.S.fV. of Cape Dundas, from whence, it being 1000 feet high, the "iew of it must have been very extended. " It was as solid and compact as so much land ; no passage in that direction was yet to be expected ; the only clear-water in sight was a channel of about three-quartera of a mile wide, between the ice and the land."— At page 259, on the 26th of August, when he cast off from the ice, and made all sail to the eastward, he says, " We kept close along the edge of the ice, which was ^uite cmnpact to "^pn ■iwi i .jmii. ii .lff ' li'v."-"" ' the southward, without the smallest appearance of an open' in(f to encourage a hope of penetrating in that direction" At page 261, when in lat. 72° 2' 15" and long. 105° 14' 20", he says, " A constant look-out was kept from the crow's-nest, for an opening to the southward ; but not a single break could he perceived in the mass of ice which still covered the sea in that direction" And on the fol- lowing day, the 28th of August, he adds, "The ice to the southward, along which we continued to sail this day, was composed of floes, remarkable for their extra- ordinary length and continuity: some of them not having a single break or crack for miles together, though their height above the sea was generally not more than 12 inches, and their surface as smooth and even as a bowling-green ; forming a striking contrast to the ice to which we had lately been accustomed more westerly." On the 30th of August, he says, " Having now traced the ice the whole way, from long. 1 14° to 90° without discovering any opening to encourage a hope of penetrating to the southward, I could not entertain the slightest doubt that there no longer remained a possibility of effecting our object." Does Captain Parry then, with facts like these before his eyes, really mean to say, that a continuity of land, south of the westerly course to be steered towards Behring's Strait, is in any point, except the two I have mentioned, such as one to the north of it? Suppose, for instance, that, after he entered Lancaster Sound, there had been no land whatever to the northward, between him and the Pole, and that the land to the southward from Cape Byam Martin to Banks's Land, or even to Behring's StraiJ, was continuous ; I would ask him candidly, to say, if he believes he could have advanced to the west- ward beyond even the 80th degree of longitude? earance of an open- ; in that direction." 5" and long. 105° Dut was kept from outhward; but not ! mass of ice which And on the fol- idds, "The ice to tinned to sail this ble for their extra- 3nie of them not es together, though enerally not more I smooth and even ling contrast to the accustomed more he says, " Having from long. 1 14° to ► encourage a hope :ould not entertain longer remained a ." Does Captain fore his eyes, really land, south of the 3 Behring's Strait, is mentioned, such as for instance, that, there had been no tween him and the ithward from Cape even to Behring's sk him candidly, to [vanced to the west- rree of longitude? • 133 . , Would he have fou id that continuity *«^\f « ^^^^ °"^ ZtLrth.ard. whose existence .fo«e enal^ed^n^^^^^ reach the 1 14th meridian ? But the Quarterly Review r«Ul %aps answer for hi. : " Yes he -« d not ITy ha^e made as much westing as he did but he would have reached Behring's Strait; because he would Zl entered my ' Polar tasin; where t-e would av been no ice to impede his progress. And ye the Revifewer acknowledges that 'Mhe »ce found about the S W extremity of Melville Island, was owing proba- biy to the discontinuance of land, or to the prevailing northerly winds having driven down the ™/'»^«dy';"^ Zged iUn among the Islands!" May I ask him then To give me any so;nd reason, why the same combined causes should not h.ve produced the same effects. (^ that discontinuance had taken place in the same parallel on any other meridian, between Baffin's Bay and 114 S longitude! and why it may not take plac at the west end of Arctic lands, on any mendianswes oi hat longitude, and in parallels even .— ./ « Island. IF NO OTHER LANDS S^lOUld ^^^^^^^^ situated to the northward of them agam? He how ever 1 dare say. will not allow the inference that mUs be drawn from his own admission : for in the face of tha admission, and in support of his firm bel^f sti H. tha there is an open Polsr Sea, notwithstanding ice is driven to the southward" from thence, where the supply must consequently corae/rom, he gives the authority of Captain Parry, who, he says, "has no doubt of an open sea to the westward of Melville Island ; as whole fields of ice, interminable to the sight, were obsei-ved to be moving bodily to the westward for days together. Captain Parry may have told him so, for aught I ktiow ; but as far as I can find, what he has published m his St Lf j^M W m i iie i -gJB i MW ' 134 Voyagerdoes not seem to me to amount to quite so much OS this. At page 86, Captain Parry does, to be sure, say something about a strong westerly current, which by-the-by, though perhaps it was only a temporary one, is not much in proof of the existence, there at least, of the Reviewer's famous circumvolving current between the Pacific and Atlantic from west to east, if,- as he supposes, there be a passage for it. But this fact is not at variance with Phoca's circumvolving current in that direction. For he does not insist on there posi- tively being a passage for it (though there may be,) any where, but along the northern shores of circumpolar lands, if it cannot pass between them, till it rounds the north point of Greenland, and finds its way down its east coast towards the Atlantic. Captain Parry says, ** On the 17th September, the current, which for the last two days had been setting to the westward, and which could not possibly have escaped our observation had it existed previously to the late westerly and north-westerly gales,, was here found to be running stronger than we had before remarked it.— This was made particularly t>bvious when, having reached the farthest point west- ward to which we could possibly venture to carry the ships, we were obliged to heave to, in order to watch for an opening that might favor our views ; the ships were at this time drifting to leeward through the water, at the rate of about a mile and a quarter an hour, in spite of which, they went so fast to the westward by the land, that Lieutenant Beechey and myself estimated the, current to be running at least two miles an hour in that direction. I must here remark, that besides the current to which I have now alluded, and by which the floes and heavy masses appeared to be affected, there was, as usual in this navigation, a superficial cur- "Vi. |nt to quite so much does, to 'be sure, ly current, which [only a temporary xistence, there at jumvolving current m west to east, i/i" it. fiut this fact is olving current in list on there posi- there may be,) any es of circumpolar till it rounds the its way down its !aptain Parry says, t, which for the last •stward, and which r observation had it and north-westerly stronger than we made particularly farthest point west- r venture to carry ve to, in order to vor our views ; the leward through the I a quarter an hour, to the wetiteard by d myself estimated miles an hour in , that besides the id, and by which 3d to be affected, I, a superficial cur- 135 rent also, setting the smaller pieces past the others, at a much quicker rate. Of the causes which now pro- duced this strong westerly current, at a time when the contrary might rather have been anticipated, it is of course not easy, with our present limited experience of this part of the Polar Sea, to offer any very probable conjecture; but the impression on our minds, at the time, was, that it was perhaps caused by the reaction of the water, which had been forced to the eastward, in the early part of the late gales, against the ice, with which the sea was almost entirely covered in that direc- tion. Be this as it may, we did not fail to draw from it one conclusion, which was favorable to the object we had in view, namely, that the drift of so large a body of ice for days together in a westerly direction, indi- cated a considerable space of open sea somewhere in that direction." As to this open space of sea to the westward, it is only necessary to observe here, that as it appears, from other previous remarks, that the tides were here very regular, though it is not made to appear so clear at times, whether Jthe flood was from east or west ; at all events the floating ice was carried by thentt sometimes one way, and sometimes the other. The currents also are stated, as setting sometimes to the east- ward, and as such ice must have been carried by theait in that direction, " the large body of it which wasdrifting to the westward, for days together," might have been only returning back, to fill up the space it had before per- haps occupied there, by means of what Captain Parry calls " the reaction of the water, which had been forced to the eastward in the early part of the late gales." In the following year, when Captain Parry had gained more experience in the vicinity of the S.W. extremity of Melville Island, he speaks very differently on the a.-mtLJV,~^ '■ V— r. ido subject of an open sea to the westward of Melville Islard. He says : " We had been lying near our pre- sent situation, with an easterly wind blowing fresh for thirty- six hours together, and although this was considerably o^the land, beyond the western point of land now in sight, the ice had not, during the whole of that timcy m&ced a single yard from the shore ; affording a nroof that there was no space in which the ice was at liberty to move to the westward, and offering a single and striking exception to our former experience." Captain Parry's former experience, however, was not obtained quite so far to the westward, as it was at the time when this single and striking exception occurred. Captain Ross was instructed "carefully to avoid com- ing: near the coast of America, in order to give it a good offing," for, says the Reviewer, " had it been intended that he should ascertain its position, his instructions, we have no doubt, would have directed him to proceed up the Welcome, and endeavor to pass through Middle- ton's Frozen Strait^ whereas the object clearly was to avoid being entangled with the shoals and islands and ice, on the northern shores of America, which, by the vague accounts of Hearne and Mackenzie, are very similar to the wor/Acr« «Aom of Siberia." The Reviewer too acknowledged that he had less apprehension of the passage through Behriog'9 Strait being closed against our navigators, except by ice, than of the difficulties which they may probably have to encounter on this side of America." No wonder then, if he had any influence in the deliberations at the Admiralty, that, in order to avoid //»e*e. Captain Parry was instructed to proceed by Way of Lancaster Sound, and " if it should be found to connect itself with the northern sea, he was to make the best of his way to Behring's Strait;" not at all doubt- ward of Melville ing near our pre- nd blowing fresh Ithough this was western point of 'uring the whole of shore ; aflfordinga ich the ice was at ering a single and erience." Captain was not obtained IS at the time when cur red. ifully to avoid corn- ier to give it a good id it been intended n, his instructions, ted him to proceed iss through Middle- i object clearly was toals and islands and rica, which, by the [ackenzie, are very ria." The Reviewer apprehension of the eing closed against n of the difficulties icounter on this side '. had any influence Jt that, in order to icted to proceed by should be found to a, he was to make it;"notatalldoul}t- 137 ing but that sea would be found free from ice, and na- vigable the whole way. We have seen the result of that voyage. With that result the Reviewer's resources seem to have tailed him, and he very prudently gives up the cudgel to Captain Parry ; and though he seems to have had B. fearful hankering after Middletons Frozen Strait, or Repulse Bay, which he disbelieved quite as much as he did the existence of Baffin's Bay, yet after what he had said and published he could not well recommend it himself, as a next place of trial. He therefore informs us that " the attempt was to be made as recommended by Captain Parry, in a more southern latitude, and close on the coast of America." This was preferred t^ a route through Prince Regent's Inlet, on account of the delay which would n«^cessarily be occasioned by proceeding so far to the northward, as Sir James Lancaster's Sound, in order to get into that inlet. This last atteitipt has also failed, but with this " advan- tage'' gained, as the Reviewer would say ; that we now do know there is such a Bay as the Repulse Bay of Mid- dleton ; and as to ** the difficulties which our navigators would probably have to encounter on this side of Ame- rica," he has been a true prophet for once. And now, as the Reviewer says, " comes the question to be solved as to the best and shortest route to get upon the coast of America. From the appearance and circumstances, at the southern part of Prince Regent's Inlet, there was not a man ' i the late expedition, who was not convinced that it opened oui into the sea^ which washes the northern coast of that continent." This route however did not, it seems, hold out such a fair prospect of success, as that taken last through Hudson's Strait, as the latter was " recommended " by Capt. Parry himself; and the Reviewer *' thought it Data. '8 '^jm^!gsmii:7Am:-!'^im<^<^smf^s;^^^m^'^ii^»>^^ss¥^'3 13a probable that either Hudson's Strait, Sir Thos. Roe's Welcome, or Repulse Bay, or all of them, might afford navigable passages into the Polar Sea." These then, with " the knowledge acquired on the former expedi- tion," afforded that " sanguine hope " for the complete solution of" the interesting problem of a north-west pas- sage." The route which last failed, was then of course considered " the best and shortest, to get upon the coast of America." That by way of Lancaster Sound, and down Prince Regent's ln!et, where the present attempt, it is said, will be made, may therefore be termed the forlorn hope, whether it may turn out to be the best or not. As the last expedition failed in reaching the north coast of America, the arguments of the Reviewer and Capt. Parry, in favor of the route along that coast, are of course equally applicable to it in the attempt now to be made there. We will therefore proceed to examine them. In the first place ; if Capt. Parry should succeed in getting through Prince Regent's Inlet, and to the south- ward of the land forming its west side ; and i/that land should trend nearly on a parallel, so as to be in con. tinuity nearly, or to join Banks's Land, he will, in all probability, find just as little difficulty in advancing as far as the west end of that land, along its southern shore, ay he did to that of Melville Island. But, if there should happen to be a large space to the westward of Banks's Land, without any land, and none between it and the north coast of America, it is as proba- ble that he will find the whole of that space filled with iic^s and unnavigable, either to the west or south : and for the same reasons that he could do neither in the whole space between Melville Island and Banks's Land. Sir Thos. Roes lem, might aflbrd la." Tliese then, le former expedi- for the complete a north- west pas- tas then of course to get upon the J Lancaster Sound, .vhere the present may therefore be may turn out to caching the north the Reviewer and sng that coast, are he attempt now to roceed to examine should succeed in t, and to the south' ; and if that land as to be in con* and, he will, in all :y in advancing as \ its southern shore, large space to the any land, and none rica, it is as proba- t space filled with est or south : and do neither in the ind Banks's Land. i^mm^^ 139 But admitting that Capt. Parry should get on the north coast of America, what then ? Why, he says, and the Reviewer also, there " will be a manifest advantage gained, in hiaking the attempt along the northern coast of America, as he will there be certain of a continuity of land. Arrived on the coast of America, and no ob- struction from land, we" says the Reviewer, " tee no reason why the passage to Icy Cape, which does not exceed 1500 miles, might not easily be accomplished in one season ; about 600 of these were actually run on the last voyage in six days ;" but that was from the nest- ward, quite the wrong way. He should have added, that " it required five weeks to traverse that distance when going in the opposite direction," to the westward or to- wards Behring's Strait, as Capt. Parry did. If, as I think, I have shown that there would have been no advantage gained by making the passage to the west- ward, along the northern shores of the lands extending from Prince Regent's Inlet to Banks's Land,;)roi;iWer can Mr. Barrow ich of his attention, He says, at page ,^aK#f<«sss"- 373 of his Voyages to the Polar Regions, •* In fact, the ice-bergs, and those vast fields of ice which float about on the sea and are wafted down by currents into the Atlantic, are chiefly formed on coasts, and in lays, in narrmo straits, and at the mouths of great rivers. The whole coast of Siberia is a fertile source of this supply," [on the authority of the Russians I dare say : I wonder what becomes of them all, now the door is shut against them by the land to the northward of Davis's Strait.] " The multitude of large rivers which fall into the Polar Sea, by carrying down the alluvial earth, have formed numerous and expansive and shallow bays of fresh water, which in the course of the winter become so many solid masses of ice. As the sources of these rivers, and a great part of their course, are in more southern latitudes, where they never freeze, the water they sup- ply is, in the winter, dammed up near the mouth, and ice-bergs are formed, which, when broken loose, are drifted out to sea. In the same manner the field ice is formed in the straits, and bays, and on shallow coasts, which, when set afloat in the spring, is carried out into the sea : in this situation it is drifted about till, heaped piece on piece, and driven about, it again fires itself among archipelagos of islands, on shallow coasts, and in straits, bays, and inlets, where each field becomes a nucleus for an increasing accumulation, as in the straits of Belleisle and Behring, for instance, and in every part of Hudson's Bay down to the latitude of 50°." Now, to be sure, if this be the case, there can be no dissolution of ices on the north coast of America, and as the wind, it appears, prevails generally from the north- ward, they cannot be carried out to sea in its teeth ; so that at this rate, on such authority at least, it must be con- y^^nmn^smisms^mim^ •J'S-rst'^KiSv. 'P \ 142 tinimily encumbered with ices, whether those from the northern ocean find access to it or not. How indeed can such " an increasing accumulation" of ice be dis- solved at all, when in Hudson's Bay, so much further to the southward, there is an "increasing accumulation:" nay, even "in the Strait of Belleisle! !" But then the Quarterly Reviewer and Captain Parry will turn round on Mr. Barrow and me, and say, that all this may be ••10, but " it can scarcely be doubted that the climate on the north coast of America will be found to improve, and the obstruction become less, as the ships advance towards the Pacific. Besides, it is well known that the western coast of every continent and large island (even of our own) enjoys a higher temperature by many degrees than the eastern coast in the same parallels of latitude." As a fact, this is true with regard to northern extra tropical continents, whose western coasts have a much higher mean temperature than the eastern. " This difference is extreme' v striking between the west- em coast of North America, and the opposite eastern coast of Asia. Mr. Daniel explains it, by the heat evolved in the condensation of vapour swept from the surface of the ocean by the western winds. This general current, in its passage over the land, deposits more and more of its aqueous particles, and by the time that it arrives upon the eastern coasts is extremely dry : as it moves onward, it bears before it the humid atmosphere of the intermediate seas, and arrives upon the opposite shores in a state of saturation. Great part of the vapour is there at once precipitated, and the temperature of the climate raised by the evolution of its latent heat." I ap- prehend, however, that little of this efect will be found to ameliorate the climate on the north coast of America much to the eastward of Behring's Strait, owing to the r those from the t. How indeed " of ice be dis- much further to accumulation :" !" But then the ly will turn round t all this may be that the climate found to improve, ie ships advance 11 known that the arge island (even rature by many same parallels of ?gard to northern kern coasts have pan the eastern, between the west- 1 opposite eastern s it, by the heat r swept from the tds. This general eposits more and the time that it remely dry : as it amid atmosphere ipon the opposite >art of the vapour tmperature of the itent heat." I ap- eci will be found :oast of America ait, owing to the mSi»iK%i'^^^U-^ 143 probable proximity and immense quantity of ices to the north, from whence frigid winds prevail to counteract it. And therefore that the rule will not perhaps be found so applicable to the eastern and western sides of Arctic lands, as it doubtless is to those of extra tropical conti> nents more to the southward. But before the question comes to further proof, which there is much reason to hope it iJiy, by means of the intended /and crpedition, let us try it by the test of the few recorded observations hitherto made on the temperature of the east coast of Greenland, in Hudson's Bay, and Behiing's Strait, as extreme points in the case. For the first, we will take the authority of Mr. Scoresby, in his V yageto Green- land, published in 1822, who says, at page 204, after he had landed in Scoresby's Sound : " The heat among the rocks was most oppressive, so much so that my excursion was greatly contracted by the painful languor which the uncommonly high temperature produced. Unfortunately I had no thermometer with me, but I think the temperature could not be below 70° ; to my feelings it was equal to the greatest heat of summer in England." This was on the 25tli of July, to the north- ward of latitude 70°. In Hurry's Inlet, he says, " that Mr. Lloyd experienced a degree of heat as oppressive to his feelings as he ever suffered either in the East or West Indies, to which torrid regions he had been a frequent visitor." " It so far overcame some of his men who had attempted to climb an adjoining hill, that they could not proceed, but lying down, fell fast asleep," &c. " The superior heat of the land to that of the sea was most remarkable and striking ; when the temperature on shore was not less than 70°, the thermometer on board the ship, even near the shore in Scoresby's Sounds never rose, I believe, in the shade above 40°." ,. ^ ^iSj^#«;taH».»S3SM*S8SS?aviks^^^^'- - -* — it, " almost every kas complains of eat annoyance of ivhen surrounded gust at 56" in the aid what latitude ► the southward of \ the eastern side on the west side, what Lieutenant Strait, and also in hich being almost ly be expected to well as that of the 3 radiation of heat ' the St. Lawrence jhring's Strait, and a latitude 03° N. and of the surface d, in lat. 631° and f Augai:L, the mean \% and that of the August, in latitude ard of East Cape, md the sea water id any one in his the Pacific, which 70° or 80°, could lid here. Neither ! western coast of than the eastern," omewhat higher in of Greenland. rning the east side 146 . . of Behring's Strait ought of course, according to the rule of the Reviewer and Captain Parry, to be the (warmest part of it on an equal parallel. Yet, bemg of so low a temperature as it appears to be, on what ground can it be believed that there will be a better ck- mate further to the eastward, on the north coast, than there is here ? Nay, by their own rule, must it not be progressively colder from ley Cape all the way to their point oi greatest frigidity and obstruction, about " mid- way of the coast?" Or teethe one supposed by Ur. Brewster to be " situated in about 80° N. latitude and 100° W. longitude ?" I must, however, take the liberty of borrowmg one of the Reviewer's own arguments to prove, that the cli- mate « from midway," on the north coast of America, towards the Pacific, can not be milder than it has been experienced at its western extremity. In the beginning of the year 1818, he took much pains to show that the temperature of our climate m Etigland was Imer in the three 'summer months of 1816 and 1817, by from 1 1° to 20°, than it had been m corresponding months of 1805, 1806, and 1807--that " the remarkable chilliness of the atmosphere, m the summer months of those two years, was owing to the appearance of ice in the Atlantic"-lhat » it would be a waste of words to enter into any discussion oft th6 dimltiutioto of temperature, which muit necessarily be occasioned by the proximity of vSSt mountains, and islands of ice;" in short, that the westerly wmds did iit fact acquire an unusually frigorific character, by having passed over a few icebergs drifting to the southward in the Atlantic, at the. distance of some hundreds of rtiiled from the British Isles. What then mnst be the character of winds in the circumpoW Data. • ■ IV o •S|''!S?iS»'»'**'wv! ■ i i> S H ^ji BWW .tl l -JM W I I J 146 ^ Arctic sea, i/they "prevail generally from the north?" And what their influence on the climate of the whole north coast of America, upon which they blow, and the ice drifts ; it being a lee shore ? That the winds, judging theoretically, should prevail from the northward in the Arctic regions, is perhaps indisputable ; and, though the Reviewer has admitted it to be so, yet it is as well to establish the fact' by the testimony of navigators in that quarter of the globe. Mr. Scoresby, from a mean of nine years' observation in the Spitzbergen sea, in the months of April and May, has "estimated the frigid winds passing over ice, to be in proportion to the mild winds blowing from the sea, as 173 N. to 69 S." In Baffin's Bay. it appears by Captain Ross's register, that the northerly winds were in proportion to the southerly, as 75 to 59— the easterly and westerly, as 62 E. to 66 W.— And on an examination of Captain Parry's register of the winds for 448 days between July 1819, and September 18?.0, the northerly winds were in proportion to the southerly as 316 N. to 140 S. ; and the easterly to the westerlj as 118 E. to 246 W. or thereabouts. So that i/any ice be either formed along the north coast of America, or drive down upon it by these winds, " prevailing, as they do, from the northward and westward," and a Polar current from the same quarter, I should like to know by what possible means it can be expected to be cleared of it, except by the effect of heat? Or, if that which perhaps may be so dissolved is, as I believe, replaced constantly, though probably imperceptibly, by the tendency of the whole body to move southward, (whe- ther it extends fiv.e or ten or any number of degrees to the northward, towards the Pole,) how that north coast, or the north or west coastp of any lands, on any ^ pom the north ?" ite of the whole sy blow, and the winds, judging lorthward in the and, though the }t it is as well to lavigators in that ears' observation ;hs of April and passing over ice, blowing from the Bay, it appears northerly winds as 75 to 59— the ) W. — And on an iter of the winds 1 September 18{iG, n to the southerly ly to the westerlj . So that i/any coast of America, •9, " prevailing, as ivestward," and a ', I should like to be expected to be heat? Or, if that is, as I believe, imperceptibly, by e southward, (whe- umber of degrees !,) how that north any lands, on suiy "I 147 parallels and meridians between the N.W. part of Greenland and Melville Island, can be otherwise than , perpetually encumbered with ice, provided no other land be between them and the Pole ? But more especially po, if we admit also the effect of the Reviewer's circumvolv- ing current from the Pacific, to be " rushing in" through Behring's Strait with " the greatest velocity :" for as that current is bound to the Atlantic, it must set to the eastward from thence, and carry along with it floating masses of ice. Lieutenant Kotzebue says : " The direction of the current was always N.£. in Behring's Strait, and stronger ' n the Asiatic than on the American coast. I estimate the current on the Asiatic coast in the chan- nel, at the greatest depth, to be three miles an hour, when the wind blew fresh from the south. The con- stant N.Ei. direction of the current in Behring's Strait proves that the water meets, with no obstruction, and consequently a passage must exist, though perhaps not adapted to navigation :" and belieVing, in consequence of what our Quarterly Reviewer had told him, that the current in Baffin's Bay runs to the south, he thought ** no doubt can remain that the mass of water which flows into Behring's Strait takes its course round America, and returns through Baffin's Bay into the ocean." — Mr. Von Chamisso, the naturalist, who was with Kotzebue in the Rurick, is not quite so positive, nor so sanguine: for he says, "After we had tried to prove that a current goes to the north through Behring's Strait, we must confess that it is too weak, and can force but too little water through the narrow entrance, to correspond with those currents which flow from Davis's Strait, and along the east coast of Greenland, towards the south." This gentleman too, i*^ seems, believed, at the time he wrote this, in the Reviewer's current down [li * 149 (I Baffin's Sea," which we have seen had no existence but in his own fertile imagination. Captain Buraey supposed " the current in Behring's Strait to be periodical ; were it perpetual," said he, " its moderate rate through a channel neither wide nor deep, could contribute little towards a current in the Greenland seas." Very little, truly — and perhaps has nothing to do with the current in the Spitzbergen sea. We have seen, from the testimony of Mr. Scoresby junior, that the current there is perpetual. Indeed, from the united testimony of hundreds besides, there can be no doubt of the fact of a constant current from the northward, out of the Polar Sea, towards the Atlantic Ocean : and because it is exactly such an eflfect as must of necessity result from physical causes ori- ginating in heat and cold on the globe. Tbis» too, being the only effect of that cause hitherto dis-; covered in the Arctic regions, has appeared to me to be, of all others, the strongest argument against the practicability at least — nay, almost the existence of a passage for ships from the Atlantic into (what I under- stand by) the Polar Sea, on any parallel and meridian, from the N.W. part of Greenland to Melville Island. The ^pace between Melville Island and the coast of America, to ^ehring's Strait, still remains to be explored by ships. To that space the same argument is appli-^ cable under the like circumstances. . For, should a simila^r effect (the certain result of the same cause) not be found there, the same conclusion must follow — Im- practicability. But further, even if such similar current should be hereafter discovered flowing from th^ Polar Sea, somewhere within that space^ towards tl^e Atlantic, between insulated lands ; it may indeed prove the existence of a passage, perhaps under the ice, for water lad no existence nt in Behring's 1," said he, '* its ither wide nor current in the nd perhaps has ISpitzbergen sea. f Mr. Scoresby /. Indeed, from es, there can be urrent from the irds the Atlantic ich an effect as sical causes ori- globe. This, use hitherto disr •peared to me to nent against the he existence of a to (what I under^ ilel amd meridian, I Melvilk Jslatid. and the coast of ins toi be explored rgument is appli- . For, should a e same cause) not nust follow — Im- r current should n th^ Polar Sea, 'ds tl^e Atlantic, ndeed prove the the ice, for water 149 and fish, like that between Melville Island and Banks's Land, without proving its practicability for ships. Be- cause, as such current must of necessity be from the north or west, or both, it will in all probability close up the narrower passages with ice. Even admitting then the circumvolving current of the Reviewer (not from the Pacific^ but) from Behring's Strait to the east- ward, to be flowing towards the Atlantic by way of channels yet unexplored between Melville Island and the coast • of America, if these channels should not be sufficiently wide to allow the heavier masses and fields of ic3 to pass through with the current, from the northward, or westward, or both '^ the natural conse- quence, I should apprehend, must be an accumulation of icy obstruction at the northern and western openings 9f such channels ; as was the case in the space between the west end of Melville Island and Banks's Land, and since that time, in the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. And this, too, on the same principle, and for the same reason, that a grating placed across a stream would cause an accumulation of such jioating substances as cimld not pass through it, on the side neMt its source. At the same time, it must be observed, thai even the future proof of such current from the northward or westward, from the Polar Sea, or along the northern coast of America, will not in the least tend to prove that either the one or the other has the waters of the Pacific Ocean for its source, as has been so wildly conr jectured : for the waters of that ocean can have no more to do with it, as a cause of its existence in any part of the north circumpolar regions, (except through the medium of evaporation and a northerly movement m the atinosphere,) than the man in the moon. I ^, KM X ^j^ .■P 4. l i. i - iiii Mi ■ . u m m* . w «M i nj ^' -^"y « shallowness of the sea near the north coast o/ jia, freshes discharger' into it from many large rivers, anu aie coast fronting .c north, render it more liable to be frozen, than the seas of Greenland and Spitzbergen in a much higher latitude. The northern lands in the Icy Sea are impediments to the dispersion of ice, and hence arises the great difficulty of navigation in that sea." This passage is partly appli- cable likewise to the north coast of America. But Captain Franklin has recorded his favorable opinion of the practicability of a passage for ships along that coast. " Our researches," he says, " as far as they have gone, seem to favor the opinion of those who con- tend for the practicability of a N.W. passage. The general line of coast probably runs east and west, nearly in the latitude assigned to the Mackenzie river, the Sound into which Kotzebue entered, and Re- pulse Bay; and very little doubt can, in my opi- nion be entertained of the existence of a continued sea in or about that line of direction. A connexion with Hudson's Bay is rendered more probable from the same kind of fish abounding on the coast we visited, and on the coast to the north of the , Churchill river. The portion of sea over which we passed is navigable ! ;.'?i^!^^::v53«v!r-- 162 for ships of any size ; the ice we met with, particularly after quitting Detention HarbBur, ^would not have ar- rested a strong boat. The chain of islands affords shelter t'lom all heavy seas, and there are good harbours at convenient distances." There can be no doubt that the chain of islands seen to the northward of that portion of the coast ex- plored b ■ Capt. Franklin, from the Copper MinCvRiver eastward, would shelter ships from heavy seas, if it Were likely there could be any produced there. And . the shelter those nearest, as well as the North Geoi^ian Islands, afforded to that part of the coast, was the rea- son why it was not much encumbered with ice, more e{fpecia11y to the eastward of Detention Harbour ; as George the Fourth's Coronation Gulf is almost com- pletely protected by Wilmot's Chain, and other islands to the northward of it. If a similar chain should exist from Cape Hearne to Icy Cape, there will proba- bly be a navigable passage all the way between it and the coast of America, provided it runs, as Capt. Frank- lin supposes, east and west, nearly in the latitude as- si :ed to the Mackenzie River, and the Sound into w.. jh Kotzebue entered. But there is some reaHon to fear that the coast of America, westward of Mackenzie's River, will be found to trend more to the northward than the dotted imaginary line of direction so arbitra- rily assigned to it by geographers. The late Admiral Bumey said, " an account or notice is given by Kobi- lef of a great river, in the coast of America, to the tlorth of Behring's Strait, which river is described to take a long course in a southerly direction, and its banks to be full of villages." Can the Sound discovered by Li^t. Kotzebue to the northward of Behring's Strait, between Capes Krusenstem and Espenbei^, lead to k'ith, particularly lid not have ar- |f islands affords |tre good harbours chain of islands of the coast cx- pper MinCi River heavy seas, if it ced there. And B North Geoi^ian oast, was the rea- ed with ice, more tion Harbour ; as f is almost com- and other islands ilar chain should !, there will proba- ay between it and s, as Capt. Frank- n the latitude as- d the Sound into ! is some reason to ird of Mackenzie's to the northward irection so arbitra- The late Admiral ts given by Kobi* lerica, to the tlorth iscribed to take a , and its banks to nd discovered by f Bebring's Strait, cipenberg, lead to 153 tbis great river, " dpscribed to take a long course in a southerly direction ?" Though Kotzebue's detail of his proceedings in this Sound is rather obscure and un- satisfactory, and so apparently contradictory, in some parts, as to implant a doubt of its correctness ; yet I am rather disposed to attribute this to the translation, which is evidently defective, than to any intention on his part, to conceal known facts, for the .purpose of deception. He entered this Sound, named after him, on the Istof August. "At 11 o'clock Xbe says) we were at the entrance of a broad inlet ; the coast va- nished in the east, and high mountains showed them- selves in the north." Here the wind abated, and he anchored in seven fathoms water, in lat 66° 42' 30^ and long. 164** 12' 50" : at 7 o'clock he weighed again, " and steered to the eastward (across, but as he says) up the strait." " On the 2nd, at day-break, our ex- pectations were at the highest pitch ; there was still nothing but open sea to the east." The next passage is rather rsmarkable. *' As we now saw low land in the south, the direction of which was likewise to the east, we could no fonger doubt that we were really in a broad channel, as we always continued to see the open sea in the east." Now, if there be any channel leading to ibe eastward, it must be opposite to his noo*i position of this day, which was in lat. 66° 35' 18", and long. 162* 19', in 8 fathoms water, where he says he was ^' obliged to tack, because the wind turned to the S.E" But if there had been a pasHage to the eastward, where be says *< the sea continued open," surely the shifting of the wind, in soundings of eight fathoms, need not have prevented him from standing on in that direction, on the starboard tack, to explore an open space in so promising a quarter, or at least till he had seen the land Data. U ~= Vr ' r->^ =!;'> v' ~*i^*' ' '?^ISffiS!Sei*BKS'J»^^5SW«iwiiaft«»t.'^?<:'-j.Tr>i<^ , «ii5-rJif),B5^i^7a<,«ri*-vr--- -— - — ,Ji. • • i 1'54 in continuity, o^ d shoaled his water, so a« mo* to bo able to proceed further. According to his puWislwd Chart of this Sound, howeter, the land must have been seen to the eastward, from the noon position of the Rurick on the 2d August ; for the whole eastern side of Kotzebue's Sound is delineated in continuity, and a working track along it is laid down as far to the south- ward as Chaifaisso Island. He anchored to the west- ward of this island, " in eight fathoms water, in an open- ing five miles broad, where he still cherished the hope of discovering a passage into the Frozen Ocean;' which hope, it may therefore be presumed, had thus far been disappointed, and as it also was here. " The an- chor was weighed; we sailed (tathe eastward) up the Strait, and whan we had passed the narrow part, we again cast anchor in seven fathoms." He then pro- ceeded to examine the coast eastward with h» boats j and on the 7th, when in Eschscholtz Bay, he says, " We had advanced so far at noon, that we could rfw- tinctly observe that the land was united every where. At the distance of a full mile from the shore, the water had decreased to the depth oi five feet, and the hope of dis- covering a river also vanished." But he says, further on : ♦'I called the Bay after our physician, Eschscholta. I do not doubt that there was a river behmd the high mountains, which the shoals, however, would not permit us to investigate. The ebb tide runs out seven, and the flood ohly five hours. They change regularly; the current sets with more violence out than m, and some- times runs two knots." These are indications of a rvver, but not of a channel leading to a sea; but Kotzebu^ in his Chart, has connected the whole coast round Eschscholtz and Spafariefs Bays, though it does not seem quite certain that he carefully examined the latter: 1.55 so as Bot to he his puUithed mtut have been position of the eastern side of ^Uinuityt and a far to the soutb- ired to the west- iter, in an open- irished the hope ''rozen Ocean ;" ed, had thus far ere. "The an- iastward) up the narrow part, we He then pro- with his boats } Bay, he says, lat we could y the American extends to Nor- Bay." Now, as and Schischma- e Kotzebue was ich this strait or other of those di- bave " thought it :ean, that the In- days rowing to rds, when speak- ly hope ih^tthi* ?s next year ; and with certainty be able to penetrate bas very deep in- bo accompanied 167 Lieutenant Kotzebue, in his " remarks," has thij pas* sage : " We observe that that part of the An^rican coast which we examined to the north of Behring's Strait, appeared to us t6 excite the hope of finding a channel among the entrances and friths which intersect it, and which might lead to the Icy Sea towards the mouth of Mackenzie River, without doubling Icy Cape, which would then be part of an island ;" and in a foot note, he adds : " Several Journals have published a letter from the author of these articles (San Francisco, New California, on the 28th of October 1816,) in which tliii opinion was delivered ; an error of the copyist has altered the sense, so as to make it seem as if this- mtrame had really been examined by us " These passages seem to afford some ground to suspert that there may be an opening on the east side of KotzuL}ue Sound whic i had been seen, but not examined; or on what can Kotze- bue have founded his belief, that he should 'be ^.ble to penetrate much further to i\\eeast" the folio wi,;^ year? Certainly, from what he has «aiV, concerning the bottoni of that sound, and an inspection of the chart Le \m published, if truet no such belief or even ho';>i: can be excited; for he has connected the land • om^letely round it, with the exception of the strait in the Bay of Gbod Hope, leading to the westward. Willing to believe him to be an officer of honorable principles and veracity, I can hardly bring myself to suppose him other- wise without further proof. The hope he expressed, (if he really had any,) of being "able to penetrate further to the east" out of Kotzebue Sound, must have rested on the known existence of some strait supposed to lead from the east side of that sound tc the Northern Ocean. And if what he learned from inc Indians did refer to such a strait, instead of the one on the west side, i%s it ~~' '•:: J g jei*"ftt4fe t- atf vi • i H ' jn i t iiiiai .t vTn ia^jrura^^ji^ ^iin i ^uinn m ■tatwiitifaia^v iTJ^gat^^ Ift8 evidently does both in his chart and publication, he may inadvertently have told the truth tojMr. Barrow on his arrival in London, and afterwards have been com* manded by bis govemm^it to falsify both. However, I must confess, I would much rather attribute this dis* cordance to some misunderstanding, than allow my- self to suppose the other to be even possible. If, on the other hand, there is only a river at the bottom of £sch- scholtz Bay, " behind the mountains, which tlie shoals would not permit Kotzebue to investigate," it could hardly be expected to communicate with the northern Ocean, unless by another branch. In that case, it would not answer to the description of the " Great River" mentioned by Kobilef, which is said " to take a long course in a southerly direction." If^ therefore, any such river exist, it must be looked for still farther to the northward, and perhaps beyond Icy Cape. 4 From some facts stated in the account of Captain Parry's attempt through Lancaster Sound, and in Cap- tain FrauLclin's Journey, it seems doubtful whether what may be properly termed the Polar Sea has yet been reached. But it is very possible that each may have navigated in waters separated from it by conti- nuity of land, at some yet undefined distance to the northward and westward ; in which waters, the North Georgian Islands, and others perhaps to the westward of them, are situated, -and extend perhaps as far as the 130th meridian; and into which both the Copper- mine and Mackenzie's rivers disembogue : in short, a mediterranean sea, communicating with the Bays of Iludsoii and Baffin, by various channels, through which the flood tide finds its way from the Atlantic and Spitzbei^en Sea. . Captain Ross found the flood tide to set from the % ■m=i^^^ %'iMiS^f^^**' publication, he ijMr. Barrow on have been com* th. However, ttribute this dis* than allow my* ssible. If, on the bottom of Esch- which the shoals tigate," it could ith the NORTHERN In that case, it m of the "Great is said " to take 1." Ift therefore, d for still farther id Icy Cape. count of Captain ound, and in Cap- t doubtful wheth^ *olar Sea has yet ble that each may from it by conti- }d distance to the 1 waters, the North ps to the westward perhaps as far as both the Copper- bogue : in short, a with the Bays of lels, through which the Atlantic and de to set from the 150 aouthwatd all the way up the east side of Baffin's Bayj The rise and fall decreased gradually, and the timet of high-water at full and change were later, as far as he advanced to the northward. The tide of flovod set to the southward and westward on the west side of that Bay, as he returned along it, to the south^tard. Captain Parry, near Possession Bay, in lat. 73^31' 16", and long. 77° 22', says, "he found the rise and falloftide^ as nearly as could be j udged from the marks on the beach^ to befrom 6 to 8 feet. While the tide was rising, the stream came from the north wa.d and westward along the shore of the Bay. It is more than probable, there- fore, that the flood comes from the N.W. on this part of the coast." Whether the flood came from the west, out of Lancaster Sound, or from the northward down the west side of Baffin's Bay, it must of course, at this place, have taken the direction imposed on it by the trending of the coast from Cape Liverpool towards the south-east. ^ >*,> " On the 7th of August, when in Prince Regent s In« let, off Port Bowetk, he says, ** The whole rise of tide (being nearly the highest of the springs,) appears to have been ten feet. The ebb was found to set strong to the southward in shore. A boat being moored to the bot^ torn, at three miles' distance from the land, at 5 p.m., not the smallest current was perceptible. From these and several subsequent observations, there is good reason to suppose that the flood tide comes from the southward in this inlet." Captain Parry adds : ** I have before observed, that the east and west coasts which form this grand inlet are probably islands : and on an inspection of the chart, I think it will also appear highly probable that a communication will one day be found to exist between this inlet and Hudson's Bay, either througb 1 ■^SiMiK^llB''''*'*'''**'**-'''-'*' ''■'«»''!1»~^' ■'"'S*'-' -'^■«"--'<^s.l' 100 the broad unexplored channel called Sir Thomas Roe*s Welcome, or through Repulse Bay, which has not yet been satisfactorily examined. It is also pro- bable that a channel will be found to exist, between the western laud and the northern coast of America; in which casct the flood-tide which came from the south- ward, may have proceeded round the southern part of the west land out of the Polar Sea : part of it setting up the inlet, and part down the Welcome, according to the testimony of all the old navigators." That the east and west lands forming Prince Regent's Inlet may be islands, is very likely; and that it communicates with Hudson's Bay, appears to be little less than certain : for (to my mind at least,) it is proved by the flood-tide running from the southward. As I believe this tide has its source in the south and easty and that it flows from the Atlantic and Spitzber- gen Sea, through Hudson's, Cumberland, and Davis's Straits, by channels of communication with them all, and perhaps by others yet unexplored, still further to the northward on the west side of Baffin's Bay, that in Prince Regent's Inlet is consequently apart of it. This part, when it reaches the north entrance of Prince Re- gent's Inlet, naturally takes the direction of the east and west lands forming it ; setting to the eastward on the former, and to the westward along the latter towards the Wellington Channel ; and making the times of high-water, at full and change, progressively later in that direction, as far as, or perhaps beyond Melville Islaitd: the other part of the great general flood sets down the Welcome, along the west side of Hudson's Bay, as it naturally must, from the trending of the yet known land, and making the times of high-water at full and change, on that coasty progressively later to i}n.e southward. This td Sir Thomas (Bay, which has It is also pro- dst, between the of America; in from the soutb- southern part of Irt of it setting up according to the That the east and Inlet may be nmunicates with ess than certain : by the flood-tide i in the south and tic and Spitzber- and, and Davis's on with them all, id, still further to iffin's Bay, that in r a part of it. This ice of Prince Re- ection of the east beeastwardon the the latter towards dng the times of ssively later in that d Melville Islai^d: od sets down the idson's Bay, as it e yet known land, t full and change, B southward. This " 161 fact, therefore, can by no means prove, as Ellis and others have concluded, that because the flood-tide in the Welcome pets to the southward, it must necessarily come from the xcest, originally, out of the Polar Sea, and that therefore there must be a navigable passage. Nor, indeed, if the flood tide shall hereafter be found to come from the westward, along the southern shores of the land west of Prince Regent's Inlet, will it in the least prove that the Polar Sea is its grand source, as has been conjectured. For the same fact would occur in an inclosed sea, by the flood taking the direction of its circumbounding land. It will no doubt prove the ex- istence of a channel between that land west of Prince Regent's Inlet and the northern coast of America, but nothing more. Channels of communication are known to exist be- tween the Atlantic and Bafiin's and Hudson's Bays, and now, there perhaps can be little doubt of one between them by way of Lancaster Sound, and Prince Regent's Inlet. There probably are others, though yet undisco- vered. As far as can be gathered from the experience of Captain Parry, and the facts stated by him as well as Mr. Fisher, in their respective publications, it \vould ap- pear that the flood-tide through Lancaster Sound, and Barrow's Strait, all the way to Melville Island, has ito generaliLoyf,nol{vom the west, but from the e£U^ and from the northward between some of the North Georgian Islands. The times o(high water, too, at full and change, as far as they can be got at, seem to have been progress sively later from east to west, and the rise and fall of tide was also less and less in that direction. On the 22d of August, when ofl'Gascoyne Inlet, about the longitude of 9(r, Mr. Fisher says, " I have only to add one circum- Data. X I t ';i^- iJSfeS»r?8*r*^ j.,-:*^ ■:'■» m ! wy *. M. the tide had nued to fall till 7 all of tide not ex* At the time we T a current in the ast 7 the tide was ad a half an hour, turned on board, rrd. By the above tt full and change • one o'clock. The : appear so clear." 163 *• If" says Captain Parry, " it come from the westward, there must be a tide and half tide, but it seems more probable^ on an inspection of the chart, that here, as on the eastern side of Byam Martin's Island, it will be found to come from the northward between the islands." But it is most probable, that, as the tide setting to the E,N.E.. at half past 7 was the ebb, the flood must have set to the W.S.W, m the stime place, unless Captain Parry can give any good reason why it should not. On the 6th of September, in lat. 74° 47', and long. 1 10* 34', Captain Parry says, " It was low water by the shore at half past 9, and it had risen between two and three feet when the boats came away at half past 12. During this time, the ships were tending to, a tide coming strong from the eastward, from which direction it is therefore pro- bable" (why not certain ?) "that ihejlood tide runs on this partof thecoa«/, though we had no opportunity of trying its true set in the offing." Again, on the 9th of Septem- ber, "Considering our present detention so near the shore a good opportunity of observing the true rise and fall of the tides, I caused a pole to be fixed on the beach for the purpose, by which it was found to be high water at half past 4 o'clock in the morning, and the tide ebbed i\\\ half past 10. From this time till half past 4 p.m, when it was again high water, the tide had risen two feet eight ittches ; so that, small as this tide was, it seems to be very r^ular. The direction of the stream of flood was, as usual, not so easy to determine. But I shall give the facts as they occurred. At the time of lone water by the shore, and for an hour and a quarter 6^reittook place, the current was setting to the eastward at the rate of three quarters of a mile per hour. It continued to run thus for the greater part of the day, but at times it was observed to set in an opposite direction, and now and » i^ -«3fflSW3«WBK:»^?*>K v»W!e»«»*»*»«- - '^M fwt'^t^TJ.l*^** ~ ■ '«■» (. **-»«*f'»''^*wl L'-J ' - ■ ? ■ ■ ! - gt '' 164 then no current whatever was perceptible. From 8 till 1 1 P.M. it was running strong to the westward, after which it stopped, and then began to set the ice the contrary way. I have been thus minute in mentioning the above particulars, not with a hope of throwing any light upon that interesting question of the direction of the tides in this part of the Polar Sea, but to show how impossible it is, with the land close on one side, and on the other innumerable masses of ice, in almost coitstant motion, to arrive at any satisfactory conclusion on the subject. In Winter Harbour, in lat. 74" 47' 15", and long. 110° 48' 30'', it was found to be high water at 29 minutes past 1 o'clock, and the mean rise and fall was only 2 feet 7 inches." On the 1st of August, in the year following, when Captain Parry was released from Winter Harbour, and had rounded Cape Hearne, he says, " We found the ships to be considerably impeded by a tide or current setting to the eastward, which, as it slacked about 7 in theevening, I considered to be the flood, the time of high water at Winter Harbour, this day, being about half past 7." In this instance, as in others, where a supposed flood tide from the westward has been mentioned, it is coupled with an expression of some doubt as to its being a tide or current. The flood tide from the eastward has been stated more decidedly. Why, in this case and at this place. Captain Parry should have considered the flood to come from the westward, merely because this " tide or current slacked about the time it was high water in Winter Harbour;" when not very far frotn the same place, on the 6th of September of the former year, he thought that the tide coming from the eastward was probably the flood, \ni can of course assign some good reason. It seems to me, however, that this stream was most probably a current, especially as he says on the From 8 till 1 f •d, after which :e the contrary ioning the above any light upon |n of the tides in how impossible nd on the other |o mentioned, it is ubt as to its being the eastward has this case and at e considered the rely because this ime it was high very far froin the f the former year, the eastward was issign some good t this stream was as he says on the Wk^ i6r> 14th of August, " The frequent experience we had of the quickness with which currents are thus formed, in con« sequence, merely, of the wind setting the various bodies of ice in motion, naturally Jeads us to this useful caution, that one or two trials of the set of the stream in icy seas must nort>e too hastily assumed in drawing any con- clusions as to its constant or periodical direction." This observation may be truly applicable to temporary currents, but not to tides, which, though they may be accelerated or retarded in their velocity by various causes, must always set in the direction imposed on them by others of locality, which cannot vary, the trend ings of the lands between which they have their course. Upon the whole, it appears that Captain Parry then did find the rise and fall of tide to be less to the "west than to the eastward and southward, from whence therefore, a probable, at least, if not a " satisfactory, general " conclu- sion may be drawn, that the flood tide comes originally. Though we cannot come at the direction of the flood tide on that part of the coast of America which Capt. Franklin travelled and coasted, yet at the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, in lat. 67° 48' and long. 114° 37', he states, that a " rise and fall of four inches in the water was observed." This was the farthest west and the least observe^. In travelling from thence along the coast to the eastward, the rise and fall, though very small, if appears, did increase ; fronaf whence, there- fore, it maybe fairly argued that the flood comes, till the contrary shall he proved. In about 112° west, Capt. Franklin says, " For the last two days the water rose and fell about nine inches. The tides, however, seemed to be very irregular, and we could not determine the direction of the ebb or flood. A current, setting to the eastward, was running about two miles an hour during f "^I^T^WIMMMMnPpHHM 168 our stay." About the mouth of Banks River, Capt. Franklin says, " at this place the water fell two feet during the night ;" and on the 3d and 4th of August, in Bathurst Inlet, he observed ** a fall of more than two feet in the water during the night." On the 15th of August he adds, ** it may here be remarked that we observed the first regular return of the tides in Warren- der's and Parry's Bays, but their set could not be ascertained. The lise of water did not amount to more than two feet" Now it must be remarked that War* render Bay is about the easternmost limit of Capt. Franklin's researches. Though I will not go so far as to say that the fore- going facts, which I have collected chiefly from the publications ** of those who contend for the practica- bility of a N.W. passage," tend to disprove it; yet, they are evidently very strong indications of an extensive Mediterranean Sea, such as I have supposed may exist, having communication by various channels with the Bays of Hudson and Baffin, though not with the Polar Sea proper^ Though the Quarterly Reviewer says, " Heame talks vaguely of the sea being full of islands at the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, as far as he could see with a good pocket telescope ;" yet Capt. Franklin has proved him to be quite correct, with regard to the numerous islands ; and perhaps it may fall to his lot, also, to prove, whether or not Heame was as correct too,*in " think- ' ing it more than probable, that the Copper-Mine River empties itself into a sort of inland sea, or extensive bay, somewhat like that of Hudson." There is another circumstance yet to be mentioned, which gees far to show, that Heame may be right in his judgment ; at least it seems so to me. On the 17th and 18th of Octo- kg River, Capt. ter fell two feet tb of August, in f more than two On the 15th of marked that we tides in Warren- t could not be amount to more arked that War* it limit of Capt. ay that the fore- cbiefly from the for the practica- >rove it ; yet, they of an extensive pposed may exist, channels with the lot with the Polar ya, ** Heame talks is at the mouth of i could see with a anklin has proved to the numerous lot, also, to prove, ct too,*in " tbink- opper-Mine River sea, or extensive There is another which goes far to his judgment; at and ISthofOcto- 167 ber, when Capt. Parry was at Melville Island, " the deer were observed in vast numbers, preparatory to their departure over the ice to the coast of America, after which one or two only were seen." The Quarterly Reviewer says, on the return of summer, '* it was quite astonishing to behold the rapidity with which the various plants of the island pushed forth their leaves apd flowers, the moment the snow was off the ground. Whether it was the abundance of these flowers that tempted the musk oxen and rein-deer to make the long journey over the tee, or whether they came to these secluded and peaceable islands to drop their young, is not known. In a valley, formed by the stream of a ravine, which bad the same lively appearance as that of an English meadow, a whole herd of mu&k oxen were seen grazing; and our surprise (says Capt. Parry) in some degree ceased, at the immense distance which tiiese animals must travel in the course of their annual visits to these dreary and desolate regions ; as such a pasture, affording undisturbed and luxuriant feeding during the summer months, may, in spite of the general appearance of the island, hold out sufficient induce- voeat for tlieir annual emigration ;" and the Quarterly Reviewer says in another place, that " deer migrate from America to Melville Island, which is upwards of 300 miles from the Continent," Capt. Franklin too, in bis Appendix, No. 5, at page 668, informs us that *' in summer the musk oxen migrate in considerable num- bers from the Continent (America) to the various islands which exist in the Polar Sea," so that the fact is stated and, of course, believed by all these authorities. In the' autumn these animals pass from Melville Island to the coast of America. In Uie spring, nay in the •• summer" too, they return to that island, and " various " others .■ i ^*tC3 ^-■^'**5f5*^T--- = 100 *• which exist in the Pohir Sea." Now by what means are they enableund for conclud- ith a better chance le side of Ameri- now, that in case /, by finding land, encumbered with , he would rather ;;;aptain Parry had a distance of 600 ;o traverse," than rinds" to beat back nd to produce the ; of the new Geor- ned that they must g the northern and , ) the northern and ing between them, fd. Consequently, , and finding such 171 western entrances closed against them by ice, would be in a much worse predicament than Captain Parry was, for instance, when he found the western entrance of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla actually so closed against him by ice. For his obstruction being to wind- ward of him, he had only to quit it and return home, " with these winds from the West and N.W. prevailing" in h\s favor, and perhaps the " circumvolving current" of the Quarterly Review into the bargain. Whereas, any ship having advanced from Behring's Straits as far as the western limit of such obstruction as Captain Parry met with, must have been reduced to the necessity of beating back again the way she came; unless some channel could be discovered to the northward, com- municating with Barrow's Strait and Lancaster Sound, which it is hoped Captain Parry will find by way of Prince Regent's Inlet. But no such obstruction from ice, and indeed but little from even land intervening, can have entered into the calculation of those who have said, " We Jirmltf believe that a navigable passage does exist, and may be of no difficult execution. It is the business of three months out and home. We have little doubt of a free and practicable passage for seven or eight months in every year. Arrived on the coast of America, and no obstruction from land occurring, we see no beason why the passage to Icy Cape, which does not exceed 1500 miles, might not easilt/ be accomplished in one season ; about 600 of these were actually run on the last voyage in sij^ days;' and finally Captain Parry himself "has recorded his opinion in favor of its ac- complishment." To persons thus sanguine in their hope, nay, so con- fident in their expectations of success, the prevalence " of westerly and north-westerly winds" must be, of i ■ ■I . i(p»*s.*ir>fw^«ssfe'^«fc*w- ,„„.^y .*• i12 ail others, the hiobt fdvorable cirdumstance, as they would ensure the Reediest perforhiance of the voyage: for, as " they seem" to Captain Parry, so they do in truth, for that reason, " afford a reasonable ground" (to them) " for concluding that an attempt might be made with a better chance of success from Behring's Strait than the side of America." Indeed, as the Quarterly Reviewer sees no reason ** why the passage to Icy Cape, which does not exceed 1500 miles, may not be easily accomplished in one season, as 600 of these were ac- tually run in six days, by means of these very westerly and north-westerly winds,** I would take the liberty of asking him, why — (if he have no fear of either icy or land impediment) should not the whole 1500 miles be perhaps run with the same facilities in about one month f which would be far less than what he considers to be the duration of one season, who " has little doubt of a free and narigable passage for seven or eight months in every year." The only objections, then, which these advoctttes for the existence and practicability of a N.W. passage can make, consistently with their publicly expressed belief of there being no obstruction from ice, and little or none from land, are those given by Captain Parry, in the terms 1 have quoted ; not one of which appears to rile to be of the slightest importance, compared to that which has been given to the discovery oi this famed N.W. passage. And, were it not that /le has published them, and that therefore, those who know little or nothing of the matter may think tiiem very solid objections, they would hardly deserve the notice of any seaman who has had years of experience on service in ships of war, in all the climates of the globe, except perhaps within the north frigid zone, of whose imaginary inclemency ance, as they of the voyage : , so they do in ble ground" (to might be made iehring's Strait the Quarterly ge to Icy Cape, ay not be easily these were ac- tse very westerly ake the liberty • of either Icy or e 1500 miles be bout one month? considers to be little doubt of a eight months in these advocSites a N.W. passage blicly expressed icCy and little or aptain Parry, in ' which appears le, compared to iscovery of this shed them, and r nothing of the objections, they tny seaman whof in ships of war, perhaps within nary inclemency 173 as to the hMmKa feelings and its terrible effects, Captain Parry has proved and recorded the non-existence, by a practical experience which, being well merited, has been justly rewarded. We will, however, examine them one by one, and see what they amount to. In the first place, " the length of the voyage to the point where the work is to be begun" is objected to by Captain Parry, and in his opinion renders " this mode of proceeding altogether impracticable, at least for British ships," But why for ** British ships" particularly, any more than Russian, or indeed any other ships ? In the present improved state of navigation, the length of the voyage, say first to Macao in China, is absolutely not worthy of a thought. The wear and tear of thai part of the voyage might be with ease repaired there or in theTypa. The reduction in the stores, provisions, and fuel, could be madje up there just as well as in Eng- land ; and if it could not, eVery thing considered to be absolutely necessary might be sent out and placed there in store preparatory to their arrival. As to the observa- tion, " How injurious to the health of the crews, so ntd" den B.nd extreme a change of climate would prove, as that which they must necessarily experience in going at once from the heat of the torrid zone into the intense cold of a long wint3r upon the northern shores of Ame- rica," it must by no means be " necessarily" so, or at all probable that the healths of the crews would suffer in the slightest degree, from any changes of climate to which they might be subjected in the course of their voyage. For who that has served (as perhaps Capiain Parry hai not,) during the last war, for years, in all the climates of the globe, and been as suddenly rer oved from hot to cold, and from cold to hot, ever contemplated or experienced any such injurious effects, either upon himself or his I 174 ship's eompanies? None, I daresay; at least I can answer for myself. Many, very many, after being grilled in the Ease or West Indies for years, immediately on their return home have been sent smoking-hot, to cool in the^ North Sea in winter, without at all feeling its effects, more than the crews of any other ships long stationed there. But perhaps I shall be told, that the severity of the North Sea climate is nothing compared to that of the terrible icy regions of the north. Certainly, the North Sea climate may not be so cold ; but its humidity renders men much more liable to pulmonary and in- flammatory complaints, than it appears Captain Parry's people ever were in the frigid climate of Winter Har- bour. For he says, " In the severest weather, not a single inflammatory complaint occurred, though in pass- ing from the cabins into the open air, and vice versa^ the men were constantly in the habit, for some months, of undergoing a change of from 80 to 100 degrees, and in several instances 120" of temperature." No such ex- treme change of temperature as this (which, however, had no injarious effect at all,) could possibly be expe- rienced on a passage from England to China. There the crews might be refreshed for months, if it were re- quired. From Macao, the passage, with the S.W. Monsoon, could be performed with ease, and in as short a time, to Behring's Strait, as one from England to the N.E. part of America ; so as to be off Icy Cape in all July, if necessary. So that on every consideration except expense, (which can be nothing with such an important object in view,) certainly, the best and most expeditious mode of performing that part of the voyap;^ to the northward of the continent of America, {if no obstruction from either land or ice be supposed to exist,) would undoubtedly ast I can answer leing grilled in diately on their )t, to cool in the^ eling its effects^ long stationed t the severity of pared to that of Certainly, the but its humidity monary and in- 5 Captain Parry's of Winter Har- it weather, not a d, though in pass- nd vice versa, the some months, of ) degrees, and in ." No such ex- yhich, however, possibly be expe- China. There hs, if it were re- . with the S.W. ease, and in as lie from England 3 be off Icy Cape it expense, (which iRTANT object in vpeditious mode of the northward of iiction from either )uld undoubtedly flfuw" r 'W»"" 175 be, by way of Behring's Sir^it to the eastward. But those who do apprehend that obstruction may he proba- bly met with, somewhere between Behnng's Strait and the N.E. part of America, will prudentl v prefer having the attempt made from east to west, but first to examine Behring's Strait. I shall conclude, for the present, with a passage on this subject, written by the late Admiral !Burney, and published in the year 1819. '* Behring's Strait being- regarded as the most probable opening on the western side of America, by many as the only probable one, for the entrance into the Pacific, by a northern navigation from Europe; and on the eastern side of America, there being many inlets and arms of the sea unexplored, of which a very small proportion can he expected to lead to Behring's Strait ; it follows, that the best chance for discovering a passage, or [for dis- covering that there is no passage, is by commencing on the other side of America. On this side of America the question can only be set at rest by the discovery of a passage, for twenty expeditions with the most favorable seasons would be insufficient for ascertaining that there is no passage." If, as the Quarterly Review says, there be " a free and navigable passage for seven or eight months in every year," the coast of America must of course form the south side of it. That coast c-^rn be got hold of at Behring's Strait, and if it could br J.rnt sight of, and there be no obstruction, a ship by >acii ■ • it must ultimately discover it : and in less than half r k time it can possibly be done from east to west, with tJ^e prevailing winds and the Reviewer's circumvo!viry him at page 489 : lers, in the Strait of 181 the Fury and HecU, seems to indicate that the obstruction we there met with, is dependent rather on locality than season. It is more than probable, that the obstacles which finally arrested our progress in the Strait, are to be mainly attributed to the current we found setting to the eastward through it, and which coincides with that observed by Captain Franklin, and by the Russians, to the westward." True — it does so— as to direction: but the cause which Captain Parry assigns for its periodical flow and cessation, renders it impossible to identify this current with the one they ob- served, which is said to be perpetual. " This stream," Captain Parry adds, " in finding its way through the Strait, would un- doubtedly have the effect of keeping the ice close home upon its western mouth, so as to prevent the egress of a ship in that direc- tion : and I cannot help thii.!:ing that, on that account, the naviga- tion of that Strait will seldom, if ever, be practicable." On what possible ground, then, can it be expected that the west- em mouth of any other existing Strait between Prince Regent's » Inlet and Behring's Strait should, under similar circumstances, be more practicable than that of the Fury and Hecla i ' Though Captain Parry says that " circumstances beyond the reach of any previous speculation, have combined to oppose an in- surmountable barrier to our entrance into the Polar Sea by the route lately pursued," yet some of these very circumstances were actually pointed out by the Quarterly Reviewer as the causes of the failure of all former attempts, made in that quarter to discover a nor^h-west passage. Nay — all of these circumstances, as well as the result of Captain Parry's last voyage, were anticipated, and in mf hearing mentiomed to many private friends by one who deemed the judgment of the Quarterly Reviewer quite sound only on that point, but who at the same time firmly believed that Repulse Bay had been " satisfactorily examined ;" never, like him, having doubted that Middleton was, what Captain Parry has now proved him, a man of veracity. ■^^iii tot V'R- Ctpteiii Ptrry Hjt, ** How«v«r utaraeceBsftil have been onrhtc cfDdeaTon, they were onquettionftbly directed to the right place," Mild that, " with the limited geographical information we then pot- MMed, do othelr roule than tha* pointed out in my instructioni could ptfssibly have been puMUed with any rMisonable hope of raccew." CiMtainly the route through F^-tdson's Strait and Bay did, to tfaoie who selected it, hold forth e. )« hope at the time than any other, because it was preferred ; and even after failure baa proved it to be the terong, it is still ptrodained as the " right plaei:,'' and as the only route that Could possibly have been pofnued with any reasonable hope of Success ! But this necessarily places the route by Prince Regent's Inlet very low indeed in the scab of hope ; for at the time Captain Pavrv tailed last, that inlet was as Well known to him as it is now. No addition has been made to the then litnited geographical in- formation he possessed immediately '^^unging to itteij'. If, then, three years ago. Prince Regent's Ir'iCt were considered, as H is here acknowledged to have been, as n/t holding, forth " any reasonable hope of success," on what can a more reawnable hope be bsih now ? For my own part, I must confess that I dare not indulge expectation of more fW>m the next attempt through Prince Regent's Inlet, &c. than Captain Parry's strenuous endeavors effected in '^' the fight place;" and therefore, supported by an ackncwledgeikient from such authority, I still consider it to be what I have already termed it, the Forlorn Hope. And that too, tiotwithstanding Captain Parry concludes his Journal in these words, which I sin- cerely wish nay cne day prove to be prophetic : ** I never felt more sanguine of ultimate success in the enterprise in which I Uhve lately been engaged, than at the present moment'; and I cannot bnt entertain a confident hope, that England may yet be destined to succeed in an attempt which has for centuries past engaged bar attention, and interested the whole civilited worlds" THE END. vebeenonrbtc be right place," [Ml we then pot« istructiona could »pe of succeu." nd Bay did, to letime than ray ilore haa proved *♦ right placfc," en pumued with ; ^ Regent'a Inlet le time Captain [iim as it is now. geographical in- itseif. If, then, lered, as it is heie " any reasonable e hope be bnik dare not indulge k Prince R^ent'a reffectedin'^'die icknowledgeikient at I have already , hotwithstawSng rds, -which I wn- I never felt more in whidi I Hhve it'; and 1 cannot J yet be destined I past engaged her Friniedb!,A.J.Valp^,Hcd "ourt, Fleet Strcet .^ i-i, J:. ..-.^M-l: 1 i^ V, ■ ^s^^!EP.^«.;^^^-:;?W5^:5*=f^5BMSf>**.-.