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':^^^^^<^-'
I tfWMiTMtf^hiiiliyiirtMiiillrtWI
ON
ON THE PRTH-VEH
7 1 1
S.I
PASSAGE*
iii n* i » Mii * i n i "' i' ""m"i'"f^'
BY §»CRUTATOR.
LONDON.
'• r
'"A
48SI4.
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5^5
v^ «*
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/. 1
205449 -
^13
f being made even " too
happy ! !" Nothing like a fear is expressed, of obstacles
to be met with and surmounted. On the contrary, all
is plain sailing through "a free and practicable passage
for seven or eight months in e\ery year." The
language of the foregoing extracts is calculated to raise,
not only the hopes, but the expectations of the public,
as high as those whi^h the writer himself no doubt in-
dulged in, as to the success of any future attempt ; pro-
vided it should be made where he recommends, near the
north-east pai
been aware
ting hold of <
little further
our adventui
son's Strait,
then stand in|
tend with ici
winds and c<
" would be c
71° or 72°, a
they saw the
go far to cc
Hudson's Bi
negative,'' £
records hisc
route throug
north-east ps
he wrote, th:
son's Bay, (a
or Repulse E
says, that if
should (by
wards) lead
ITiat " woul
yet in the sa
seem to dov
informs us,
he (Middle
indeed very
of this anoi
" popular c
the question
this Numbc
,1
north-east part of America. He seems, however, to liavc
been aware of there being some little difficulty in get-
ting hold of that part of America, for he informs us a
little further on, at page 169, that, " Hitherto, most of
our adventurers have worked their way through Hud-
son's Strait, which is generally choked up with ice,
then standing to the northward^ they have had to con-
tend with ice drifting to the southward, with contrary
winds and currents. These inconveniences," he adds,
" would be obviated by standing/r«/ to the latitudes of
71° or 72% and from thence southerly and westerly, till
they saw the north-east coast of America, which would
go far to complete the discovery, or, till they reached
Hudson's Bay, which would decide the question in the
negative,'' Here, in the most direct terms, this reviewer
records his disapprobation (and with good reason) of a
route through Hudson's Strait and Bay, inquest of the
north-east part of America ; nay his belief at the time
be wrote, that no passage could be found out of Hud-
son's Bay, (and consequently even through the Welcome
or Repulse Bay) into the Polar sea. Inasmuch as be
says, that if the more northerly route be recommends,
should (by a southerly and westerly deviation after-
wards) lead any future adventurer into Hudson's Bay,
That " would decide the question in the negative." And
yet in the same article, at page 162, this reviewer would
seem to doubt the veracity of Middleton ; " who," be
informs us, " looked into (he says, sailed round,) what
he (Middleton) was pleased to call Repulse Bay" It is
indeed very amusing to compare some of the notions
of this anonymous writer, in different numbers of this
" popular critical journal," on points connected with
the question of a north-west passage. For instance, in
this Number 31, at page 170 ; he says—" It is a com-
■i
%
•i.'t
- •
r
k ■
■ • 5 '
a'^
1 ^iW
p i ^?^ - -B a - ii «^<
mon, but we believe an erroneous opinion, that tlic tem-
perature of our climate has regularly been diminisliing,
and that it is owing to the ice having permanently fixed
itself to the shores of Greenland, Mrhich in consequence,
from being once a flourishing colony of Denmark, is
now become uninhabitable and unapproachable. We
doubt both the fact and the inference. It is not the cli'
mate that hat altered, but ive who feel it more severe as
we advance in years ; the registers of the absolute de-
gree of temperature, as measured by the thermometer,
do not warrant any such conclusion ; and .more attempts
than one to land on the coast of Greenland must be
made, before we can give credit to its being bound up
in eternal ice — which is known to shift about with every
gale of wind, to be drifted by currents, and to crumble
and consume below the surface of the water,**
Now, this is all very probable, and perhaps would not
have been questioned by any body, but the reviewer
himself. He, however, having a favourite hypothesis
to maintain, which he see'ns to have founded on
imaginary assumptions^ at variance.with each other, rather
than on known facts and experience, tells us quite a dif-
ferent thing in No. 35, of the Quarterly Review, in an
article written preparatory to the fitting out of the two
expeditions in the beginning of the following year 1818 ;
as it was very necessary to clear away (at least by pen
and ink) as much as possible of the ice, which some igno-
rant folks might suppose would otherwise impede their
progress through the Polar regions, towards Behring's
Strait ; he therefore admits, in the first place, " that, for
the last four hundred years, an extensive portion of the
eastern coast of Old Greenland has been shut up, by an
impenetrable barrier of ice, and with it the ill-fated Nor-
wegian or Danish colonies ; and who were thus cut off at
once from
try ;"— that
to time, to <
every whei
length aba
land, whici
of bst Grec
is the disap
barrier of
doubt t as or
ever were i
inexplicable^
first approa
since." In
extraordins
so opportui
of many pe
assigns as
departure o
own weighl
doubt, the
asks, whetl
of an evei
at least tc
hundred y(
the remova
own climat
2ndly.
the fate of
Old Green
3rdly. 1
defective gi
hemisphere
ofOldGre
-■• T-
7t. (
once from all communication with the mother-coun-
try ;"— that •* various attempts have been made, from time
to time, to approach thiH coast, but in vain; the ice being
every where impervious ; and that all hopr. being at
length abandoned, that part of this extensive tract of
land, which faces the east, took the appropriate name
of lost Greenland. The event to which we have alluded
is the disappearance of the whole, or greater part of this
barrier of ice. How the Danes can now pretend to
doubt, as one of their writers affects to do, whether there
ever were a colony on the eastern side is, to tis, quite
inexplicable, unless it^beto palliate theirnegligence at the
first approach of the ice, and their want of humanity
since." In short, the reviewer has, now, no doubt of this
extraordinary fact, for nothing could have happened
so opportunely ; and he therefore adduces the authority
of many persons in various places to prove it, and even
assigns as " the most probable cause, for the sudden
departure of all this ice, its having broken loose by its
own weight ! !" Having thus " established beyond any
doubt, the fact of the disappearance of the ice," he ,
asks, whether any, and what advantages may arise out
of an event which, for the first time has occurred,
at least to so great an extent, during the last four
hundred years ? and answers, first. The influence which
the removal of so large a body of ice may have on our
own climate. >.,iUv* ,>-..,. ^i
2ndly. The opportunity it aff()rds of enquiring intrt
the fate of the /o/ig-to*^ colony on the eastern coast of
Old Greenland.
3rdly. The facility it offers, of correcting the very
defective geography ofthe Arctic regions in our western
hemisphere, and of attempting the circumnavigation
of Old Greenland, a direct passage over the Pole, and
the more circuitous one along tho northern coast of
America into tlie Pacific. He then takes pains to prove
deterioration of climate to have taken place in Iceland,
Switzerland and Pennsylvania, and that " it roust he
equally clear therefore, that our own climate, though in a
less degree, must have been affected by this vast accumu-
lation of Ice on the coast of Greenland :" and gives
*' reasons for believing, that previously to t!i3 fifteenth
century England enjoyed a warmer iwumc'^ climate than
since that period I T
The reviewer having, as we have seen in a former
number, expressed his belief of the pr
structed by land, move at and near the surface, in a si-
milar direction, nearly and generally, to that of the
wind.-~When obstructed by lands, they take the vari-
ous turnings and windings, which the forms and tren-
dings of those lands, and other local causes, impose
'^«f*flf it be allowed, ' that the influence of the sun, in
rarefying the atmosphere to the greatest d^ree, between
the tropics, together with the earth's rotation on its axis
from west to east, would produce (if no land intervene
ed) a constant wind from east to west,' may we not
. suppose, if the same causes operate similarly, bqt
proportionally t on the waters, of the ocean, that they.
must produce a sinular e0ect, and oblige them to take
9 like direction — that is, from east to west, at arid
near the surface all round the globe, wMiin the limits
of4he sun's declination ? — If this general effect, then, be
admitted, on the ground it rests^ we may piesume, that
, if there were a passage through the Isthmus of DaHen;
for the immense body of water, which continually
flows irotti east to west into the CaiiUbean Sea arid Gulf
of Mexico, what is called the gulf-stream would nu
longer exist And as it seems probable, that the sur^
fittoe of the water must be somewhat higher ' on tlie
eastern side of America thereabouts^ than on tbe other,
Q«f ing to the land'» obstruction to the natural dourse of
tbe great equinoctial current, and the nece«sity imposed
. ' Frosithcobaervationsmadcby Humboldt at the noutbof.tbe Rio
> Seca in the Atkatic, and on tbe coast of tlie South Sea, it appears
** there is a difference of level between the two Mas, not exceeding
6 or 7 metre*, or about 19 or SS feet."
on it, to fi
Atlantic ;
accumulat
the Contii
surface of
be lower
under wat
would, h(
West Indi
passage m
current, tc
be a lee
coast of F
bly be felt
cturrent of
than it no
warmer gi
which this
constant i
its propelli
that it may
landt befoi
fluid benei
^n region
est rareiac
supply the
evaporatii
upper stra
Tbegulf.(i
wards the
affisct a sfa
is possible
nortAwarc
perature.
■ r ; ^ »-? >. r »; -;
■*^*--t;:..,^
^f
on it, to Bnd vent through the Gulf of Florida, into the
Atlantic ; it is not unreasonable to conclude, that if this
accumulation of water was at liberty to flow through
the Continent of America, into the Pacific Ocean, the
surface of the sea, on this side (next the Atlantic) would
be lower than it now is; so that parts of land, no#
under water, would be exposed to view. This effect
would, however, be injurious to commerce with the
West Indies ; for it would render the homeward-bound
passage more difficult. Instead of a constant weather
current, to assist ships, it is pretty certain there would
be a lee one from the north-east, along the east
coast of Florida ; and its influence would most proba*
bly be felt, far up to the north-east; from whence the
Gorrent of colder water would flow, nearer the snrfe^e
than it now can, covered sitperflcially as it is by the
wanner gulf-stream. The high d^ree of temperature
which thb great body of water acquires, by the sun's
constant action upon it, being slowly reduced, during
its propelled progress to the north-east,' it is probable,
Aat it may advanceeven beyond the banks of Newfound-
land, before it is reduced to the colder temperature of the
fluid beneath it, which must be Aowing from the north-
ern regions of condensation towards the points of great-
est rarefaction and evaporation between the tropics, to
supply the {dace of that, which the heat is as constantly
evaporating and rarefying ; and so sending back in the
upper strata of the atmospherei to the colder r^ons.<—
The gulf-stream, thus propelled by lateral pressure, iq» to*
wards the banks of Newfoundland, is seldom found to
affect a ship, beyond those banks ; at the same time, it
is possible, that some of it may advance fiMrther to the
aoithwiEtrd, before that reduction is eflected in its tem«
perature, which gives It a tendency to the southward.
■ J
! >' •
i.n
1
10
For, many articles, the produce of tropical climes, and
some, known to have been from the West Indies, have
been cast ashore on the coasts of Europe. Some of
these places being situated to the N.E. of Newfound-
land, it is difficult to believe that these articles could
have been driven thither by the winds, and the swell of
the sea onfy. For these, prevailing nearly as much from
N.W. as S.W., would give them about an east direc-
tion. And if they were immersed sufficiently to feel the
influence of the great underflow of cold fluid, from
the north, which brings the icebergs down to 39** or
40° of latitude, they would move in ao east-southerly di-
rection. It seems therefore reasonable to suppose, that
there may still be the remains of a northerly movement
of water at, and very near the surface, to cause bodies
floating there to make a course, as some have done, to
the northward of even E.N.E. from Newfoundland.
The great body of the gulf-stream is, however, much
reduced in temperature about the banks of Newfound-
land ; and in proportion as it feels the cold of the great
uikderflow from the north, it is turned gpradually to the
eastward and southward, paet the Western Islands.
Wbether any part of it reaches the coast of England,
France, Portugal, or Spain, is a point much disputed.
It is poscable, however, that it may; diveiging, a& it
appears to do, to the eastward, and southward. Spme
of the fluid that composed it may find its way to the
northward of Cape Finisterre,and add something to the
great body of water which the western swell heaves
into the Bay of Biscay ; and proceeding to the north-
ward, along the coast of France, sets over fivm Ushant
beyond Cape Clear ; till meeting with a fluid below,, of
a colder degree than its own, it perhaps gradually joins
the Polar stream to the southward, according to its depth.
and tempc
it is possifa
ing the wa
ranean, wl
lowei^than
setting int
indeed, sn
admitted t
ranean, is
tion ; and (
setting out
seems nec(
the Meditc
Atlantic.
9urpiM,\ft
be equal" (
gravitiesthi
face, and t
is contrary
possible th
lantic, I b)
it is little
Azores; b
east portic
and as it s
impulse ag
pelted to
a sortof ci
the latitud
of the Wei
of 29° to 4
found, floa
nates, live
other vege
Datd.
and
bave
36 of
nnd-
ould
ill of
from
lirec-
)ltlie
from
r or
lydU
,that
ment
odies
le, to
land,
much
Hind-
great
;othe
ands.
;land,
Mited.
as it
Some
to the
to the
leaves
Borth-
shant
aw, of
r joins
depth.
and temperati:re. Some of the waters of the gulf stream;
it is possible (though hardly that), may assist in supply-
ing the water expended by evaporation in the Mediter-
ranean, whose surface, therefore, it is presumed, mustb^
lower than that of the Atlantic, as the constant current
setting into it seems to prove. Some philosophers,
indeed, suppose that the quantity of water, continually
admitted through the gut of Gibraltar into the Mediter-
ranean, is greater than can be expended by evapora-
tion ; and that, therefore, there must be a counter current
setting out undemiath. To establish this opinion, it
seems necessary, first, to prove that the temperature of
the Mediterranean is lower generally than that of the
Atlantic. For if it be higher (as is most probable), the
surplus, if there were any, and allowing their surfoces to
be equal" (and Phoca should have added, their specific
gravities the same), "would, I presume, runout at the sur^
face, and the supply be received in underneath, which
is contrary to fact. Though I have supposed it barely
possible that some of the gulf stream may cross the At-
lantic, I by no means say that it is so. On the contrary,
it is little felt by ships, far to the eastward of the
Azores ; but in the vicinity of thoseislands, the south-
east portion of it gradually turns to the southward,'
and as it advances in that direction, soon feeling the
impulse again of the grand equinoctial current, is com-
pelled to partake of its western motion : thus forming
a sortof circular eddy, which may be comprised between
the latitude of about 18° or 19° North, and the parallel
of the Western Islands ; and from about the longitude
of 29? to 43° West. Within these limits, the gulf weed is
found, floating on the surface, where I suppose it origi-
naties, lives its appointed time, and decays, like any
other vegetable production ; and I believe it is rarely
I
!>!•■■.
in
Hi:
18
or never met nvitb beyond these limits. Though I have
admitted the bare possibility, that some of the gulf
stream may enter the strait of Gibraltar, I cannot agree
with the writer of the article in the Quarterly Review,
when he says (speaking of the gulf stream), that it is of
sufficient force and quantity to make its influence be felt
in the distant ' Strait of Gibraltar.' Thus, implying (if
I understand him right), that this ' force and quantity.'
of the gulf stream are primary causes of the constant
current into the strait. On the contrary, thinking, as
I do, that the causes of this constant flow of water into
the Mediterranean are of a purely local nature, connect-
ed exclusively with that sea ; I therefore think it most
probable that if the great equinoctial currentflowed (as I
presume itwould, were there a sufficient passage) through
the Continent of America, into the Pacific ; aftd conse-
quently annihilated the present gulf stream, there would
still be the very same flow of water into the Mediter-
ranean as there is now, as long as the sun'«i power con-
tinued, and the localities exclusively belonging to that
sea remained the same. In short, I am of opinion that
the waters of the Atlantic (approximate to the Strait of
Gibraltar) feel the influence of purely Mediterranean
causes ; and that neither ' the force' nor * quantity' of
the gulf stream have any eflect whatever in causing the
current that runs into the Mediterranean. It is well
known, by experience, that this current is strongest
with easterly gales ; in the hottest weather, with wind at
the same time ; and is diminished during the prevalence
of westerly winds, and is weaker in winter generally
than in summer.' But to return : — ^Tlie winds and sur*
' The opinions of men of science are still divided as to the cause of the
constant current which runs into the Mediterranean, tlirough the strait
of Gibraltar. In turning over the Annual Register for the year 17^0,
face ciirr
generally,
» ilMrt tiae
Boyal Socir
b«t not qaiti
etb«r. Mr.V
into the Mti
riftn which
•Kuitiiiepk, 4
cvaporatioa
tie Mediten
lity of water
redneed to a
many thouwi
phesis hat n
■re not beco
•p eraporat
ndundamt m
the evaporal
supply tbrooi
by M the ri«
aUy30fc«t?
in tbc Mflditc
■ad not an ei
have. The ei
viudihefir
thflor to reeoi
of the existe
Mediterrane
tions (and c
vesael havin
niddk of tl
wrack of Ihi
•ftaraomei
meit, towarcj
MCDOB of tl
from west
■guast the
lltttMr. WJ
~ *-.
19
face mrrffnts in the PaclliR Ocean are influenced,
generally, in a nmilar way, by the sun's power, as thoM
• •iMrt tiac ago, 1 obienrcd an cuay, wriUen by Mr. Waia, of the
Boyal Society of Slookholm, to explain ibis muse. It is ingenious,
bat not qaite satisfisetory, because his facts are at variance with each
other. Mr. Waia computes that " the water, wliich is received aannally
into the Mediterranean, by the straits, and from the Nile, and all the
mors which fall into the Black Sea, and flow throogh the straitof Con*
atantinopic, oamiot raise its surface less than thirty feet : and the annual
evaporation to lower it about /orfy-/oNr fiMt." He theu says that " if
tke Mediterranean had lost annually, aince it first existed, this quan*
tity of water, by evaporation, it would, long before now, have been
ledoced to a vast mass of indurated salt." And yet, he adds, '* in the
many thousand years, since this sea haa been known, this metamor-
phesis has not taken place, but even its waters, as far as we know,
are not become more salt." He therefore feels himself obliged to give
«p evaporation, and " seek some other expedient to get rid of it»
redundant waters." What redundant waters 1 Has he not computed
the evaporation to be sofficient to lower its surface 44 feet, and its
supply through the strrit of Gibraltar, and the Dardanelles, as well aa
by all the rivers, which flow into it, as only sufficient to raise itannu-
aUy 30 feet? Thas, so for from there being any redundancy of water
in the Mediterranean, an annually increased supply would be reqnired,
and not an expedient to get rid of what he himself proves it cannot
have. The expedient he has recourse to, however, is a double current,
whids he first proposes to ouertain frith all possible exactness, and
Umv to reconcile it to the laws of hydrostatics. As a proof (to him)
of the existence of this mnder current, from east to west, oat of the
Mediterranean (which ht assumes to be salter and heavier), he men*
tions (and others have repeated it) a story of a " Dntch transport
vessel having been beaten to piece* by a French ship of war, in the
middle of the strait of Gibraltar, between Tariffa and Tangier; the
wreck of this vessel, with some casks, and other light things, appeared,
ailer aome days, on the surfece of the water, four English mites to the
tKit, towarda the Spanish sea." Mr. Waia then observes, '* If the di>
lection of the current were the same at the bottom, as on the snrfhce,
ftom west to east, these wrecks could not have raited them$ettei,
•gainst the current, so as to swim at top " If we may here assume
that Mr. Waia believed, that this wreck, with the casks and other
. V
^
i^t
I
I
I
■m
'It
\
i
between Africa and America, making however dae
allowance for the difference of the formation and poai-
hghi Ibinga, did not float on the turface, but immtdjately MMiilrdowa
to the Bottom (the ti>rin Im umi) , or at Icait into a fluid of that d*-
gTM ofialtaeis and gravity which (ai he afterwards attempt! to-prova,
by expcriuient) roust give it a direction to the weit, and carry these
light articles along with it, — I would ask, then, If the fluid at the sur-
face were, as Ac must allow, leas salt, or specifically lighter than that
beneath il, m proportion to its depth, yet still how couid these light
articles sink to that couveuient depth, unlesa their specific gravity was
greater than it V And if greater (which however can hardly be ad-
mitted), by what law could they, when carried far enough to the west-
ward, « eonvenientlif raise themuhet again to the surface, and be
observed floating in a medium, that could not support them before 1
But the truth is, the fact, if il be one, proves, if it prove any
thing (taking it for granted, that the light substance) specified would
have floated in the surface fluid), that they must have been driven
within the influence of that turfaee counter current, which every utaa
who has had experience in the strait of Gibraltar, knows, does set to
the weetward, close in, both on the Barbary and Spanish shores.
Mr. Wait, on the authority of Count Marsigli, assumes the exist-
ence of an under and surface current (in opposition to each other)
through the strait of Constantinople. He sajs, "that the salt water
enters at the bottom iato the Black Sea, and is then rendered lighter
by the quantity of fresh water thai runs into it ; after which, it flows
again in the same strait, above the salt water, into the Mediterraaean,
aa is seen in the strait of Gibraltar." He also says, " The currents
are stronger at Constantinople than at Gibraltar, because the differ-
ence in the degrees of saltness, of the water which comes in and that
which goes out, is greater, namely, according to Marsigli, 73 to 62 ;
whereas it is not so great in the strait of Spain."
The theory of this under current, in the strait of Gibraltar, is
thus explained by Mr. Waiz : " As there is a continual and copious
discharge of salt water into the Mediterranean, a great part of -this
water deposits its salt by evaporation ; therefore what is left always
remains more salt, and consequently more weighty. SuppoeiHg then
the surfaces of the two seas, the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, to
be equaF' (a supposition, however, vithout facts to support it), " their
gravity would not be equal ; but the water of the Meditemncan^ as the
tiont of in
uniform gei
moat weighty,
would run tof
the Mcditerrai
the water of I
through the a
spreads itself
weight, alread
get away, but
inferior opposi
the two currei
The experii
the laws of hy^
long box, divi
be a small hoi
end of the bo:
On hastily opt
which is the-
where the oil i
manner, and a
which it will i
cannot mix wi
to two waters
aalter than thi
• This hypol
may be applic
be aalter, and
philosophers,
in preference
quantity of «
supply every
Atlantic. Ti
proving it.
Colonel Ca|
though publis
till last week,
the cause :
and tlie surroi
.1
c lur-
tioM of intervening lands. For iheitt obstract the
vnifiDrm general tendency of the winds and currents
mott weighty, would pr«t* on that of th« Atlantic, and the two icaa
woald run together, till the waten became of equal weight, to that
the Mediterranean would neceisarily be lowest. When this happeni,
the water of the Atlantic, which is higheat, t ^nnot take un rourie
through the atrait but by a higher current, by means of which it
spreads itself in the Mediterranean ; but this would nugnicnt the
weight, already the greatest, of the water of the latter, which cannot
get away, but by opening itself a passage underneath, and formiug an
inferior opposite current in the strait. This is m^teiit to produce
the two currents, and to perpetuate them without interruption."
The experiment to prove this hypothesis to be in agreement with
the laws of hydrostatics, is then thus described by Mr. Waiz. " Take a
long box, divided into two by a board fixed in the middle ; let there
be a amall hole in the board which yuu can shut at pleasure. Fill one
end of the box with water, and the other with oil, to an eqtial heighi.
On hastily opening the hole, in the board that divides them, the water,
which is the heaviest, will be seen to run into the end of the box
where the oil is. On the contrary, the oil will be carried in the same
manner, and at the same time, into that end where the water is, over
which it will spread itself. It may indeed be objected, that, as oil
cannot mix with water, it must get at top, but the same thing happens
to two waters of unequal gravity, when oue is coloured and much
aalter than the other." ^
This hypothesis of Mr. Waiz stands on pretty sure ground, and
may be applicable to the Mediterranean, if its waters are proved to
be uUer, and consequently heavier, than those of the Atlantic. Some
philosophers, taking thii for granted, have adopted and supported it,
in preference to that of Dr. Halley, who was of opinion that the
quantity of water evaporated from the Mediterranean, exceeds the
supply every way necessary to equalize its surface with that of the
Atlantic. Thi» Mr. Waiz also admits to be the fact ; and sets cut by
proving it.
Colonel Capper, whose " Observations on the Winds and Monsoons,"
though published in the year 1801 I never happened to meet with
till last week, says, at page 302, on this question of evaporation being
the cause : " In summer the land is always much hotter than water,
and tlie surrounding air on land is .much more dry ; consequently the
^ i
from east to west; therefore from the eert coast of
N^eenin all ages. That its surface ii hmer generally than that of the
Wack Sea, and of the Atlantic, we want no calcukitiou to show : the
constant flow of the first through the Strait of Constantinople, and of
the Atlantic into it through the Gut of Gibraltar, are facts before our
«fes which prove it agreeably to the laws of hydrostatics. And accordf
iog to the same faiws, soever the supply to the Mediterranean shouU
so fcr exceed the expenditure by evaporation, as to red/tM Mr. Wain's
supposititious theory of equal surfiKes, then the effect he showed by
bis box experiment may take place, frmided the waters of the Medi-
temneao be specifically favavier, salter, and colder, at equal depths,
tiia^ those of the Atlantic. Butif Uiey are neariy of equal specific gravity
(which, notwithstanding a few partial experiments to Uie contrary*
m
f
>■ ',
m
would'be leading 418 too fur out of the way, to attempt
to traSce the currents in the Indian seas, influenced as
they are, so variously, and oppositely, in their direction
and velocity, at different seasons, by the Monsoons tthd
the bodies of land within their limits. Suffice it to saj
what more particularly applies to the North Pacific, and
will lead us again to the Arctic regions.
<> '* Having said, that the air is rarefied and raised in
the atmosphere, and that the greatest ddgree of evajjio-
ration is effected between the west coast of Africa, and
the east coast of America ; and that north of the line< the
fluid is so returned towards the Nortli'>Pole, and being
condensed somewhere in its passage by cold, it perhaps
supplies with water some of the rivers which discharge
into the seas of the temperate zone or into the Nortlij
Polar Ocean ; and, whether falling in rain, hail, or snow*
upon the earth or not, it ultimately finds its way into
t^e Ocean. And according to the temperature propof'^
tionate to its depth, the water takes a direction towards
the regions of equatorial heat ; is again raised by that
heat to the surface, and again evaporated. Experiments
in the Ocean have proved, that when the temperature
of the atmosphere exceeds that of the surface of the sea,
the superficial water is generally warmer than that at
certain depths beneath it (I say generally^ because in
soundings^ and confined waters, local causes efiect many
it probably the case), and the surface of the Mediterranean be at all
times lower than that of the Atlantic, then the perpetual flow of the
surface of the latter into the Mediterranean must be the oensequence*
as certainly as any other effect follows its proper antecedent cause.
Nay, even if the Red Sea had any channel of communication with the
Mediterranean, itt waters also would flow into it, because the surface
of the Red Sea, I should suppose, nuut be higher than that of the other,
for obvious reasons*" — . .- «..<. ,■> ,„»r-,
el^
•«
barrier of ice which stopped the progress of Cook's suc-
cessors was moveable, or no where touched the bottom.
The writer of Cook's Voyage was of the same opinion
as to the ice nearest the ship, though that opinion rested
on a foundation that might not, perhaps, equally apply
to the larger masses of ice further to the northward, and
not seen. His words are : — ' We had twice traversed
the sea, in lines nearly parallel to the run we had just
made, and in the first of those traverses we were not
able to penetrate so far north, by eight or ten leagues^
as in the second ; and that in the last, we had again
found an united body of ice, generally about five
leagues to the southward of its position in the preceding
run. As this proves that the large compact fields of
ice which we saw were moveable, or diminishing, at the
same time, it does not leave any well-founded expecta*
tion of advancing much further in the most favorable
season.'
"Though this proves that the floating ice seen
shifted its position, both to the northward and to the
southward^ but chiefly the latter, as will be soon further
proved — yet it does not prove that the Iktrger masses
to the northward, perhaps, which they did not see,
might not be immoveable, by grounding on the bottom,
if the water became shoaler in that direction, as oaf
navigators found it waSt as far as they advanced. Now
should there have been any immoveable masses of ice
to the northward, it would in some degree explain
why the current, which the writer in the review sup-
poses to set with such ' violence * from the Pacific,
jshould not have carried the ice away with it towards
the Pole, where there may be none. But, if the whols
of this ice was moveable, it proves that whether there
was a small current setting to the northward, or not.
and whethe
there must h
ward, or soi
impelled the
other, as wel
been general
is said in Co
the year 177
vanced to th
and that the
ing as far as
or the whole
us (from th(
hemmed in 1
side they c
were sure t(
quite across,
northward,
structed by i
quite imposs
In the seco]
they were n
Asia higher
than 68% oi
they were ol
the southwar
the northwa
space betwe
" Now all
of a current
ing's Strait,
posed a boc
tity to supp
ally into the
"1
29
t
and whether at the surface or the bdttdm, or both,
there must have been a stronger current from the north-
ward, or something else, which still more powerfully
impelled the ice to the southward, in defiance of the
other, as well as of the wind, which appears to have
been generally from the south-west when strongest. It
is said in Cook's Voyage, ' It may be observed, that in
the year 1778, we did not meet with the ice till we ad-
vanced to the latitude of 70", on the 17th of August ;
and that then we found it in compact bodies, extend-
ing as far as the eye could reach, and of which a part
or the whole was moveable ; since by drifting down upon
us (from the northward) we narrowly escaped being
hemmed in between it and the land.' On the Asiatic
side they encountered extensive fields of ice, and
were sure to meet with it about the latitude of 70°,
quite across, whenever they attempted to stand to the
northward. On the 26th of August they were ob-
structed by it in 694°, in such quantities as made it
quite impossible to pass either to the n6rth or west.
In the second attempt they could do little more, for
they were never able to approach the continent of
Asia higher than 67° ; nor that of America, in any part,
than 68% or 68°. 20' north. But in the last attempt
they were obstructed by the ice three degrees further to
the southwardt and their endeavors to push further to
the northward were principally confined to the mid
space between the two coasts. •• • ' "^^^
** Now all this does not seem to favor the supposition
of a current 'rushing in' from the Pacific through Behr**
ing's Strait, with such velocity, as it may fairly be sup*
posed a body of water would have, of sufficient quan-
tity to supply the southerly current, ' setting perpetu'^
ally into the Athntic on both sides of Greenland, not
J**
^^1
ilPt
30
i
*i-
only when the ice is melting, but when the sea iafreez*
ing.' Indeed, if we do but consider for a moment the
quantity of water that may be supposed to flow through
so extensive a space as Davis's Strait, * with a ve-
locity of four, and sometimes even five miles an hour;'
and then add to that the amazing quantity setting as
constantly to the southward, in the still greater space
to the eastward of Greenland and Spitzbergen, it does
certainly appear to be improbable, nay, impossible^ that
a current of at least equal, or of double velocity, and
occupying the full extent in depth and breadth of
Behring's Strait, would be at all adequate to answer the
demand ; much less, so trifling a current as we are
warranted hy facts to believe there is. For in Cook's
Voyage, the remarks on this matter are thus summed
up : — * By comparing the reckoning with the observa-
tions, we found the currents to set different ways, yet
more from south-west than any other quarter. We
again tried the currents, and found them unequal, but
never exceeding one mile an hour. Whatever their
direction might be, their effect was so triflings that no
conclusion respecting the existence of a passage to the
northward could be drawn from them.'
It is presumed, that all the currents here spoken
of were superficial ; but even admitting they extended
quite across the Strait, and flowed the same way
throughout its whole depth, still il seems quite beyond
the bounds of possibility that the quantity of water so
admitted, and with a rate of flow Uo triJUngy' could be
siifficient for the supply of the currents * setting to the
southward perpetually, through the other two open-
ings, (Baffin's sea being doubted thea) into the At-
lantic*
"Judging from such /acts as are before us, that a
part, and bi
ply the SOI
through Bel
what source
polar regioE
to be prod I
generally b
heat, and I
atmosphere,
gions, even
of the Almij
and his pa
surely in th<
steps are n
humbly to c
" Whethe
the melting
current to t
and perhaps
in the 'Pol
nearly the sa
less ice ; th:
make up th;
'those who
afford such
ranee great
of the verj
exerts on fit
are by a fn
However, t
nions have
of the ice ii
how it is foi
it was the c
• " It) " " - '.-- '■ •*
■:yr-
31
part, and biit a very small part, of the demand to sup-
ply the southern current, comes in from the Pacific
through Behring's Strait, it is necessary to inquire, From
what sources then is all the water so flowing out of the
polar regions derived ? I have supposed the currents
to be produced (at least the motion of the great deep)
generally by evaporation in the equatorial regions of
heat, and by cold returned in various ways in the
atmosphere, by land and by sea, into the northern re-
gions, even as far as the Pole. For though ' the way
of the Almighty is,' as the Psalmist says, * in the sea,
and his path in the deep waters,' yet it is also as
surely in the clouds of heaven. And though his foot-
steps are not known certainly, yet it is permitted us
humbly to endeavor to trace them.
" Whether or not there be any increase of water from
the melting of the ice in the Polar sea, so as to cause a
current to the south, appears not to be v«?ry material,
and perhaps has little to do with the general quantity
in the ' Polar basin.* In all probability, it remains
nearly the same at all times, whether there is more or
less ice ; that is, taking the ice and water together to
make up that quantity. I agree with the reviewer, that
* those who could suppose the melting of the ice to
afford such a supply, would betray a degree of igno-
rance greater, perhaps, than that of not being aware
of the very little influence which an arctic summer
exerts on fields of ice, perpetually surrounded as they
are by a freezing atmosphere created by themselves!'
However, there is no subject, perhaps, on which opi-
nions have been more at variance than on the melting
of the ice in the polar regions, as well as where and
how it is formed. St. Pierre went so far as to suppofse
it was the cause of the tides ; but he does not appear
IJ
I'
■ \
'si
•I ;
>
f
i
3
4
3i
to have been a ' plain matter-of-fact man/ but of fancy
and imagination. Hfmy.t y^/^trtni >
"Others think the ice does not melt at all, or at
least very little, even in summer. If ice, when once
formed (be it how it may) round and along the coasts
of these regions, does not melt at all, there must be a
constant increase, so long as that ice is ' surrounded
perpetually by a freezing atmosphere created by itself,'
which the reviewer tells us it ' mostly is, even in sum-
mer :' and if so, we may fairly presume it always is
in winter.
" At this rate, with the exception of what may make
its escape through Davis's Strait, and to the eastward
of Greenland, it would necessarily be always advancing
towards the Pole, (admitting the land to be the place
of its first formation) and close over it ; unless, we can
find some probable cause counteracting this eAecl jf
perpetual frost. And perhaps we are warranted ia
supposing that there exists some such cause. Indeed
it seems more than probable, that the process oi freez-
ing and melting may be going on in the arctic regions,
on the same body of ice, (if of magnitude to be suffici-
ently immersed,) at the same time, and perhaps in the
winter, as well as the summer.
** Water is a compound of ice and caloric. The
temperature of ice is 32° ; and whilst surrounded by a
temperature equal, it will remain ice. But whenever
the temperature of the atmosphere exceeds 32% and
continues so long enough for the body of ice to receive
a sufficiency of caloric to effect its dissolution, it will do
so. It is probable, that the temperature of the atmo-
sphere, even in the arctic r^ions, in summer will sorae-
•times exceed 32°, and the more, perhaps, the nearer the
Pole; and whenever it does, sufficiently^ the effect on
ice is obvious.
" This se
of ice aim
summer, if
sufficiently i
rature of t1
that, of coi
constant, t1
bably not fr
even in a^
whilst freez!
and extent I
in washing
melting unci
be accelerat
and the de
niosphere is
water will
found warn
and though
establish tht
sion. Thus
mosphere s
{clear of la
higher, tha
much highe
of ice, above
and augraei
immersed
congelation
ing. The
having beei
that their
increase of
below, acc<
Data.
33
" This seems suflicient to be said, on tlie probahility
of ice above water meltinj; in the Arctic regions in
summer, if the temperature of the atmosphere ever
sufficiently exceeds 32°. In the winter, as the tempe-
rature of the atmosphere must be constantly below
thaty of course the freezing above water will be as
constant, though the surface of the sea itself will pro*
bably not freeze till at a temperature much below 30",
even in a motionless state. The same body of ice,
whilst freezing above water, that is, increasing in size
and extent by snow, hail, and the salt water freezing
in washing over it, may perhaps, at the same time, be
melting under water; and this process will probably
be accelerated according to the magnitude of the mass,
and the depth of its immersion. For, when the at-
mosphere is colder than the surface of the sea, the
water will (in proportion, perhaps, to its depth) be
found warmer by some degrees, than at the surface ;
and though few experiments have yet been made to
establish the fact, yet sufficient to warrant this conelu-
sion. Thus in summer, if the temperature of the at-
mosphere should be 32°, and the surface of the sea
{clear of land and soundings) three or four degrees
higher, that of the water below would probably be
much higher still ; so that the portion of a lai^e mass
of ice, above the surface of the sea, would remain ice,
and augment ; and the other portion of it beknv, being
immersed in a temperature exceeding the point of
congelation, would probably be melting and decreas-
ing. The well attested facts, of large bodies of ice
having been seen to capsize or turn bottom up, prove
that their centres of gravity are altered, by either an
increase of their bulk above, or a diminution of it
below, according to the excess of either effect. Upon
Data. £ •
1
i
I
3 ,
f
— i_
f
I
34
the whole, however, it seems probablu, that in the Arc-
tic regions the process of freezing in (he atmosphere
exceeds that of melting under water, particularly on
those Nmaller masses of ice which are immersed the
least, and therefore there must be a general increase
of ice in the ' Polar basin,' from the Pole (if the ice
originates there) towards the lands surrounding the
' basin ( or from those lands (if the ice first forms there)
up towards the Pole. On this question, too, opinions
have been various. Every circumstance seems to weigh
against the opinion of its greatest formation being about
the Pole, except one, and that is, because the sea
water there will probably contain least salt. I am
disposed to believe that it must also be much colder
in the winter^ at the surface of the sea near the Pole,
than any where else. In the part of the Polar basiu
further to the southward, where it is bounded by land,
it is to be presumed that the general prevailing winds
are from S.W. to N.W., particularly the former, in bad
weather ; northerly, and easterly, when most settled and
fine. If so, it is to be supposed there will be a current
generally prevailing from the westward to the east-
ward, partaking at the same time of that general
tendency of the fluid to move southward from the Pole,
which I imagine it will be found to have, from the
coldness of its temperature " [meaning, I suppose, as
compared with the progressively increasing general
temperature of the sea from the Pole towards the Equa-
tor]. ** These two general combined impulses, ope-
rating on moveable bodies, floating on the surface of
the Arctic seas, must impel them in an east-southerly
direction, all round the globe : being, in fact, that
* circumvolving current,* which the reviewer mentions,
^M carrying fir« larch, aspen, and other trees, the pro-^
(luce of liot
through th
' puzzling' <
lemarks he
in^ so happ
of the notii
ject, I do n
continues :
sumed, tha
Arctic sea,
leads me t(
the w?nds t
" In the
may) its gen
west to east
to the south
force of an;
being greaU
" If we ci
regions, no
southward, c
Lapland to
Asia, till w
strait it do
the ice can
extent; ant
cient to floi
may also Ix
of the * gn
supposes,
passage thi
" From 1
America, \
we get to
35
sea
duce of liolh Aaift antl America, from the Polar bnsin
through the outlet into the northern ooean." The
• puzzling' diAgram, as Phoca terms it, as well as the
i«mark8 he makes on the reviewer's ingenuity, in hav-
ing BO happily ' assisted ' the reader in the explanation
of the notions he entertained on this interesting sub-
ject, I do not deem it necessary to repeat here. Phoca
continues : " Having, for the reasons before given, pre-
sumed, that there is a circumvolving current in the
Arctic sea, from west to east, but touthcrly withal, it
leads me to inquire into the probable effect of i/, and
the wmds together, upon floating masses of ice.
" In the first place, (let the ice be formed where it
may) its general direction will in all probability be from
west to east, with a tendency at the same time to set
to the southward, too strong to be counteracted by the
force of any winds from that quarter ; its bulk under
being greater than that above the surface.
" If we cast our eyes on a chart of the north Polar
regions, no opening is seen for the egress of ice to the
southward, out of the • Polar basin,' from Norway and
Lapland to the eastward, along the whole coast of
Asia, till we come to Behring's Strait. Through this
strait it does not appear at all probable that much of
the ice can pass, on account of its comparative small
extent ; and the depth of water being perhaps insuffi-
cient to float the bodies of greatest magnitude. There
may also be * a trifling current,' as I suppose ; or one
of the • greatest violence,' as the Quarterly Reviewer
supposes, running in from the Pacific, to oppose its
passage through the Strait.
" From Behring's Strait, then, all along the coast of
America, we find no opening for the ice to escape till
we get to • Baffin's Sea !' and Davis's Strait. Through
y
36
this Strait, if there be an uninterrupted communication,
it is not unfair to presume that immense quantities
would be carried by a current 'running perpetually
with a velocity, as it is stated, of four, and sometimes
of even five miles an hour V I am, however, inclined
to think, that either from the interruption of lands, or
shoals, between Greenland and America, a comparative
small quantity passes from the ' Polar basin' through
Davis's Strait ; and that much of the ice, as well as
currents, may have Hudson's Bay for their origin. If
any obstruction do exist to the free egress of ice
through Davis's Strait, the consequence must be a
vast accumulation of it, in a mass more or less conso-
lidated, from about Nova Zembla, all the way to the
eastward, as far as Greenland, and extending north-
ward from every part of the coasts of Asia and Ame-
rica, at least to the parallel of latitude in which the
north point of Greenland may lie. For whatever
masses of ice cannot pass through Davis's Strait must
be pressed continually by others, brought from the
westward and northward, by the circumvolving cur-
rent, along the north part of the more connected ice.
" If its progress to the southward, through Davis's
Strait, were not somehow impeded, it would pass through.
If impeded in its coui-se to the southward (let the im-
pediment be what it may), it is yet still more impeded
in its progress to the eastward, by the west side of
Greenland ; and therefore must accumulate against
this solid barrier, as far at least to the northward as
Greenland extends. Then, and not till then, can ice
of any comparative quantity drive further to the east-
ward, or find any passage down to the southward.
All the ice farthest to the northward of Greenland is
then at liberty to move on towards Spitzbergen ; whilst
tlie ice that
when rounc
take a turn
withal ; bee
eddy, that i
of waters ps
land. The
extend to tl
or else ' bi
lately, and
lantic.
"This is
Greenland
ment to the
son to sup[
and east co;
ment. But
being a curi
rable dista
Spitzbergen
that any ra
northward
ence of the
fore make
Zembla, ar
land and S
to the nor
Arctic reg
the moven
may be to
" Much
way to the
likely, that
pact, Mill
//
37
Hie ice that may be in motion closest in with the land,
when rounding the north-east part of Greenland, will
take a turn to the southward, and in towards the coast
withal ; because it will be within the influence of an
eddy, that must necessarily be produced in the stream
of waters passing nearest to the north-east part of that
land. There it must collect, and if it consolidate,
extend to the shores of Iceland, or even Spitzbergen ;
or else ' burst its fetters,' as it is said to have done
lately, and drift away to the southward, into the At-
lantic.
"This is sufficient to account for the ice between
Greenland and Spitzbergen having a general move-
ment to the south-west. And there is the ^ame rea-
son to suppose, that the ice nearest to the north-east
and east coast of Spitzbergen, has also a similar move-
ment. But it will not warrant the conclusion, of there
being a current in the same direction, at any conside-
rable distance to the northward and eastward of
Spitzbergen. On the contrary, it seems most probable,
that any masses of ice found in that direction, to the
northward of 82° or 83°, will be more within the influ-
ence of the general circumvolving current ; and there-
fore make an east-southerly drift towards Nova
Zembla, and perhaps clear of its NE. point. Green-
land and Spitzbergen, being situated so much farther
to the northward than any other known land in the'
Arctic regions, form an impenetrable barrier against
the movement, to the eastward, of any ice but what
may be to the northward of them both.
" Much of this northernmost surplus ice finding its
way to the southward, is one reason why it seems very
likely, that ice in the greatest quantity, and most com-
pact, will be found from about Nova Zembla, all along
^im " ^
38
the coasts of Asia and America, and extending to the
northward as far, generally, as the north part of
Greenland; and that, perhaps, less and less ice will
be found to the northward of its parallel, as the Pole is
approached. That is, adopting the opinion that the
ice is first produced near the surrounding lands, and
accumulated afterwards at sea, so as to extend its sur-
face from those lands northerly till it reaches the pa-
rallel of the north point of Greenland, which the surplus
ice must rounds before it can pass into the Atlantic, if
Davis e Strait be obstructed.
*' Greenland and Spitsbergen forming so powerAil a
bar to the progress of the ice to the eastward, with the
circumvolving current, renders it extremely probable
that there is always less ice between Nova Zembla and
Spitzbei^en than any where else in the same parallel,
and perhaps still less, the nearer the Pole in summer.
** Whether the ice during the winter encompasses the
Pole or not, can only be matter of conjecture ; and, in
all probability, the fact will never be decided by man.
In that season, if the cold is intense in proportion to
the nearness to the Pole, it is possible the ice may ad-
vance to it. But yet, as it is more probably drifted
out of the ' Polar basin,' as fast as it collects, to the
northward of Greenland, it seems more reasonable to
conclude that it seldom reaches beyond the latitude of
82° or 83°, in any very extensive or consolidated bodies,
all the year round. On this ground, for one, rests the
opinion I hold in common with the writer of the article
in question, of the probability of the vicinity of the Pole
being free of ice in the summer ; not, however, as a con-
sequence of there being no land there, but whether
there shall be any land or not. For I have supposed
it likely, that the temperature of the atmosphere, in the
Arctic regie
more, perhc
First, becaui
have given.-
a warmer ati
Pole itself, t
as far as 80'
strike the F
six months ;
yet to learn,
their distanc
influence wi
during the p
than at the F
the horizon,
the greatest i
as, there, he
the latitude
about four n
"We are
appearance <
land offers—
the Pole ; ai
the northern
"Astotht
the subject,
offers for at
would be ve
be collected
land, but ali
and towardt
is to be made,
ward of Spit
offered, it
39
Arctic regions, sometimes may exceed 32»; and the
more, perhaps, the nearer the Pole i approached.
First, because there may be less ice, for the reasons I
have given.— And if there be ice, there will probablj/ be
a warmer atmospheric temperature, to dissolve it, at the
Pole itself, than any where else to the southward of it,
as far as 80" or 75° : because, when the sun's rays first
strike the Pole, they will be felt there incessantly for
six months ; but with what force and effect, we have
yet to learn. On all other parallels, in proportion to
their distances from the Pole, the duration of the sun's
influence will be shorter. And though the sun's power,
during the periods they feel it, may perhaps be greater
than at the Pole, yet being interrupted whilst he is below
the horizon, it is perhaps probable, on the whole, that
the greatest effect of the sun's heat may be at the Pole ;
as, there, he is above the horizon for six months ; in
the latitude of 84% about five months; and in 78i,
about four months only at a time.
"We are next to inquire, what facility the late dis-
appearance of the ice from the east coast of Old Green-
land offers— first, for attempting a direct passage over
the Pole; and secondly, the more circuitous one, along
the northern coast of America, into the Pacific.
"As to the first, according to the view I have taken of
the subject, it appears to me that the facility this event
offers for attempting a direct passage over the Pole,
would be very nearly the same, whether more or less ice
be collected, not only on the eastern coast of Old Green-
land, but all round it, and even between it and Iceland,
and towards Spitzbergen. That is, provided the attempt
is to be made, as it is to be hoped it will be, to the east-
ward of Spitzbergen ; becau&e, for the reasons I have
offered, it is probable the least quantity of ice will be
•I
•i. i
'V
7M*«'
found there, clear of the land. At all events, whatever
masses may be found there, they will in all probability
be of less magnitude, and more detached from each
other, because the space for them to move in is
least confined. If any of the vessels fitting out be
destined to take this route, the probability is, that if
they advance beyond the latitude of 82" or 83° north,
the ice will less and less impede their progress to the
Pole ; and to reach it will perhaps be the least difficult
part of the enterprise. To the northward of 82° or 83°,
up to the Pole, it is likely that the weather in the sum*
mer will be for the most part fine, but hazy generally.
Thick fogs will be frequent. The winds are likely to
be moderate, shifting often round from north to east,
by south, to west, and north again, but prevailing
chiefly from the eastward and northward. If our
Polar navigator pass the Pole without any great dif-
ficulty, and find the true south course he has steered
to be on or near the 170° west meridian, and so leading
him towards Behring's Strait, he will, in all probability,
soon get to the southward as far as 80°, or perhaps 78",
where it is as probable he will find his further progress
stopped by ice, perhaps impenetrable.
" From this part of the expedition, therefore, / see no
very reasonable ground for entertaining ' lively hopes,'
that a practicable passage for ships will be discovered
into the Pacific, though there does not seem to be the
least doubt of there being one for water and fish.
"As to the second, viz. *the more circuitous pas-
sage, along the north coast of America into the Pacific,'
the prospect of success is still more unfavorable than the
other ; because the navigators are destined, in the first
place, , • to struggle against the ice, currents, and tides,
in Davis's Strait, and on the east coast of America,
which the W!
tells us him!
tains and pa
the failure in
passage, or
the highest p
arctic circle,"
allowing th
north-east p
through whi
they will th€
degrees of
fields of ice
current as w
neral direct
there be anj
for ships can
Atlantic, al<
are, that it \
Strait to the
likely to be
to be maki
because moi
of our navij
of the Russi
It appear
of his unsuc
December,
to be sent o
ence of a n(
1818, four I
Alexander,
the north- w
tions. On
Data.
k-
lever
lility
each
in is
it be
at if
or til,
> the
icult
• 83%
SUID'
rally,
ly to
east,
iiling
' our
it dif-
eered
iding
)ility,
s78",
}gress
ee no
opes,'
vered
>e the
; pas-
icific,'
m the
e first
tides,
lerica,
41
which the writer of the article I have been examining
tells ns himself * are of course never free from moun-
tains and patches of ice;' and to which he attributes
the failure in every attempt, either to make this {verij)
passage, or to ' ascertain its impracticability;' so that
the highest point former navigators ever reached is the
arctic circle," or at most the 67th parallel !' But even
allowing that the present adventurers do reach the
northeast point of America, and discover a passage
through what is 'gratuitously called BaflSn's Bay,'
they will then have to make no less than one hundred
degrees of westing, most probably through immense
fields of ice, fixed, or moving with the circuravolving
current as well as the winds, both prevailing in a ge-
neral direction from west to east, against them. If
there be any ground to hope that a practicable passage
for ships can be discovered between the Pacific and the
Atlantic, along the north coast of America, the chances
are, that it will be done (if ever it be) from Behring's
Strait to the eastward ; and therefore, it is much more
likely to be accomplished by the Russian officers, said
to be making the attempt this year, ihan by ours ;
because most of the obstacles opposed to the progress
of our navigators, from east to west, will be in favor
of the Russians the other way." ,
It appears in the preface to Captain Ross's account
of his unsuccessful Voyage, that as eariy as the 4th of
December, 1817, he was informed that two ships were
to be sent out to ascertain the existence or non-exist-
ence of a north-west passage. On the 15th of January,
1818, four ships were commissioned, viz. the Isaljella,
Alexander, Dorothea, and Trent; the two former for
the north-west, and the latter two for the Polar expedi-
tions. On the 16th of April the Isabella and Alex-
Data. ^
'Vi
•It I
i
«#
ik
\
49
ander reached (lie Nore, and on the 35t.h their pilots
quitted them off Cromer. The Dorothea and Trent
joined them at Lerwick on the let of May, hut did not
accompany them to sea on tl e 3d. Tl»e instructions to
Captain Ross, who commanded the N.W. expedition,
(as exhihited in his account of his Voyage) were dated
on the 31st March, 1818 ; and from their general
tenor it would seem that the Quarterly Reviewer had
been cunsuUed, and many of his suggestions adopted,
as to the most eligible route to be pursued. The
reviewer denied, or at least doubted the existence of the
land seen by Baffin, and what had been hitherto ' gra-
tuitously called Baffin's Bay;' and assumed the belief of
an open sea to the northward of Davis's Strait, and
the existence of a * perpetual cwrent through that
Strait, from the northward, with a velocity of four, and
sometimes even of five milvis an hour.' In conformity
with these assumptions. Captain Ross is instructed, in
the first plac^, ' to make the best of bis way into Davis's
Strait, through which he will endeavor to pass to tht
noHhiiaardy without stopping on either of its coasts,
unless be should find it absolutely necessary.' The
instructions add — ' From the best information we have
been able to obtain* it would appear that a current of
some force runs from the northward towards the upper
part of Davis's Strait, during the summer season, and
perhaps for most part of the winter also. This current,
if it be considerable, can scarcely be altogether supplied
by streams from the land, or the melting of ice ; there
would therefore seem reason to suppose it may be
derived from an opm sea, in which case Baffin's Bay
cannot be bounded by land.' The reviewer supposes,
as we have seen in a former page, that the northrcast
point of America may be situated in latitude ftom 70°
to 72» N», ai
west passagi
made near t
difficulty in \
' they are g<
venience w(
northward t<
this, it is e
Ross,' as a |
fields of ice
is deepest, a
reason to su
near the she
sttaiis, and
whether thi(
one) sugges
who drew ii
pursue his c
rection as
through the
would in a
making his
the reasons
himself mui
ciple; thou
lure of the
accidents to
peciially wl
(hat of a
Captain R<
part of th«
which, if I
from ' field
edge awaj
I »l I - 1 (1
•easi
i70»
to 72» N., and says, that all former attempts at a north
west passage failed, because ttone of them were ever
made near that part of the coast; but he apprehends
difficulty in approaching it by way of nartow Straits, as
♦ they are gendVally choked up with ice, which incon-
venience would be obviated by standing first to thfe
northward to the latitude of 71° cr 72".' Agreeably to
this, it is suggesteil 'in the instructions to Captain
Ross,' as a general observation, that a passage through
fields of ice is most likely to be found where the sea
is deepest, and least connected with lands as there ib
reason to suppose that ice is found to be more abundant
near the shores of the continent and islundsi in narrow
itraits, and deep bays.' By the by, I wonder
whether this observation (which is really a very sound
one) suggested itself to the person (whoever hei was)
who drew up the ingtructiona for Captain Buchan^ to
pursue his course in the ' Dorothea dttd Trent, in a di-
rection as due north as may be found practicable
through the Spitzbergen seas.' If it had< tbit offlfier
would in all probability lidve been moire fortunate in
making his attempt to the eaitwdrd of Spitzbergen, for
the reasons given by Phoca, and which the reviewer
himself must admit to be correct, even on his mn prin-
ciple ; though to be sure the reviewer says, • The fai-
lure of the Polar expedition was owing to an6 of those
accidents to which all sea voyages sire liable, more es-
petiially when to the ordinary sea risk is superadded
that of a navigation amotig fields and mksses ot ite/
Captain Ross is further instrucjted, after reaching • that
part of the sea to the northward of Davis's Strait'
which, if reports may be relied on, is generally free
from • field ice,' to stand well to the northward before he
pdge away to the westward, itt ordw to get a good
, j
i
■'.♦
'. .^*i^^5r;,«e5i«wr--
r
m
t
effing, in rounding the north-east point of the continent
of America ; whose latitude has not been ascertained,
but which, if a conjecture may be hazarded, from what
is known of the northern coast of that continent, may
perliaps be found in or about the 72nd degree of latitude.'
' In the event of his being able to succeed in rounding
this point, and finding the sea open,' he is instructed
• carefully to avoid coming near the coasts where he would
be most likely to be impeded by fi,ved or footing ice ;
but, keeping well to the northward, and in deep water,
to make the best of his way to Behring's Strait/
After these expeditions had sailed, two more articles
appeared on the question of this north-west passage ;
one in the Quarterly Review, No. 36, for June, 1818,
in favor of its accomplishment of course; and the
other in the Edinburgh, No. 69, for the same month,
quite as full of that * scepticism,' which its more or-
thodox opponent approves of— not in < matters of reli-
gion' — but of * science, which, by provoking inquiry,
frequently leads to the detection of error, and always
stimulates to the discovery of truth.'
^ As some passages in both these rival reviews appear
to have occasioned a more than common quantum of
this laudable scepticism on the mind of Phoca, he was
induced to publish another letter in the Naval Chro-
nicles for September and October, before the two ex-
peditions returned \ being * An Attempt to prove, from
Circumstances and Facts slated by Philosophers, that
a Passage for Ships from the ' Polar Basin ' to the Pa-
cific through Behring's Strait, must be impracticable.'
% ■
" Mr. Editor, Hull, 5th Sept. 1818.
" Locke tells us, that ' false or doubtful positions,
relied upon as unquestionable mp.:;ims, keep those in
jw-
the dark fron
different whi(
per of mind t
and disposes
it has done i
only direct a
" In exam
as well as o
requisite ; ai
that prejudi(
arc so liable
" On a su'
last few mo
notice and
serious cons
cessary to h
sion — I mea
arctic regioi
strongly ass
set of phih
denied by i
judgment, e
in favor of
think the m
posed, witb
arguments
conjectures
which appe
" The gn
sophers are
Strait * is iz
seal'or'th
seeming to
of the expe
■ lfc» fl l
45
tlie dark from triith who build on them ; and to be in-
different which of two opinions is true, is the right tern*
per of mind that preserves it from being imposed upon,
and disposes it to examine with that indifferency until
it has done its best to ftnd out the truth ; and this is the
only direct and safe way to it.'
" In examining subjects of science and phdosophy,
as well as of religion, this indifferency is particularly
requisite ; and the mind should be entirely divested of
that prejudice by which individuals as well as parties
are so liable to be misled. -^^
" On a subject of the former kind, which has for the
last few months attracted so much of the superEciaJ
notice and curiosity of the public, and perhaps the
serious consideration of a few, it seems peculiarly ne-
cessary to have the mind thus prepared for its discus-
sion— I mean the pending expeditions to explore the
arctic regions. Some points connected with them, so
strongly asserted, and attempted to be proved by one
set of philosophers, and as strongly opposed, and
denied by another, seem calculated to distract the
judgment, even of those who happen to be prejudiced
in favor of either party, without convincing any who
think the matter worthy of their attention, and feel dis-
posed, without bias, to inquire into the solidity of the
ar-uments used by either, to prove their assertions and
conjectures well founded, or stated facts to be true,
which appear discordant.
"The grand and chief point, on which these philo-
sophers are at issue, appears to be. whether Behring's
Strait * is merely the entrance of a vast bay or inland
sea '' or • the separation of two vast continents V Each
seeming to rest their opinion, as to the success or failure
of the expeditions, mainly on that question. *
m
m
mi-
4(i
** Captain Bumey, in his Memoir, proposed to show,
that ' there does not exist satisfactory proof of such
reparation ; and, secondly, from peculiarities which have
been observed, there is cause to suppose the fact to be
otherwise; that is to say, that Asia and America are
contioruous, and parts of one and the same continent.'
" As it is clear that we have no positive proof of the
iunction of the two continents of Asia and America,
let us examine the nature of those peculiarities from
which Captain Burney concludes * there is cattse to sup-
pose them contiguous, and one and the same.'
" These peculiarities were — First, 'The sudden dis-
appearance of tides, on arriving in Behring's Strait. —
Secondly, There was little or no current, nor could it
lie perceived that tLe tide either rose or fell. — ^Thirdly,
That to the northward of the latitude of 68° 46' N. the
soundings were observed to decrease.' It will then be
proper to inquire how far these ' peculiarities ' authorise
the supposition ? And lastly, whether the very same pe^
culiarities could exist i/the continents do not join ?
* " The philosophers of the north argue in support of
the supposition, chiefly on the grounds stated by Cap-
tain Burney. Those of the south not only seem to dis-
credit the existence of the ' peculiarities ' observed per-
sonally by Captain Bumey himself, but on an hypothe-
sis of their own, as well as from some of the facts stated
by that officer, they endeavor to establish their opinion
of the sepa-ation of the two continents, and the exist-
ence of a perpetual current from the Pacific through
Behring's Strait into the Arctic Sea ; finally declaring,
that they 'have less apprehension of the passage through
Behring's Strait being closed against our navigators
(except by ice) than of the difficulties they may have to
encounter on this side of America^
" On the 81
larly what is
posed one thi
Quarterly Re
observations i
questions, th
though, rega
Review for ,
currents, am
offer a few n
" The phil
it worth whii
that ' the nol
arch cannot
tion of the se
If Behring's
bay or inlan
well by way
tain, even w
their progres
to pass throu
" But eve
ratbn of tv«
important qi
impediment
a^ impassabl'.
occasion so
from the pei
Captain Bur
Asia and A
the same co
" Feeling
sitions of ei
of the jumcti
47
" On the subject of currents in general, and particvi-
larly w^hat is called the gulf-stream, as well as this sup-
posed one through Behring's Strait, as asserted in the
Quarterly Review before, I was induced to make a few
observations on the 27th of February last. On these
questions, therefore, I do not mean to enlarge here;
though, regarding what has been further said, in that
Review for June last, on the extraordinary effects of
currents, and their assumed direction, I may perhaps
offer a few remarks as I go along.
" The philosophers of the north have not considered
it worth while to notice these points, and only observe,
that ' the notion of a stream rushing beneath a frozen
arch cannot be admitted.' But to return to the ques-
tion of the separation or junction of Asia and America.
If Behring's Strait is * merely the entrance of a vast
bay or inland sea, ' the failure of both expeditions, as
well by way of the Pole as Davis's Strait, must be cer-
tain, even were they to surmount all the difl&culties in
their progress by either route ; the object of both being
to pass through that Strait into the Pacific.
" But even if BeNring's Strait should be * the sepa-
ration of two great continents,' a further and no less
important question arises, viz. Whether another local
impediment does not exist, which must, of necessity, be
as impassable as land, at least for ships, and therefore
occasion some, if not all, of those very pecaliaritiea,
from the personal observation and knowledge of which.
Captain Bumey concludes 'there is cause to supposeihBt
Asia and America are contiguous, and parts of one and
the same continent.'
" Feeling no bias towards the opinions or the suppo-
sitions of either party, and regardless ofthe fact, either
of the junction or separation of Asia and America, my
48
object in this examination is to attempt to prove, asf ar
as mown facts, and other circumstances, stated and
agreed in by both parties, can prove, (hat the passage
fox ships from the Polar Sea into the Pacific, by way of
Behring's Strait, is as impracticable as if Asia and Ame-
rica xvcre known to join. Though we are perhaps war-
ranted in giving full credit to the account Captain Bur-
ney gives of the 'pecu'iiarities' he observed ; yet it may
be as well to examine the facts stated in Cook s and
Clarke's Voyages, in support of his evidence ; as well
as some of the circumstances mentioned in the Quar-
terly Review in refutation of it.
" The first fact noticed by Captain Burney is ' the
sudden disappearance of tides on arriving in Behring's
Strait ;' and the second, that 'there was little or no cur-
rent ; nor could it be perceived that the tide either rose
or fell;
■ " In Clarke's Voyage it is stated, that * on Thurp,day
the 1st of July, Mr. Bligh, the master of the Resolution,
having moored a small keg with the deep sea \<:aA in
75 fathoms water (off Thadeus' Noss), found that the
ship made a course north by east about half a mile an
hour.' This was attributed by him ' to the effect of the
southerly swell, rather than to any current.'
" In Cook's Voyage, when at anchor in fathoms,
■with the Peaked Mountain over Cape Prince of Wales,
bearing S. 10° W., on the 1 Ith of August, it is remark-
ed, ' We perceived //V^/e or wo currcw/, nor did we perceive
that the tide either rose or fell.' Again, on the 21st of
August, in lat. 69° 30', it is said, ' During the afternoon
we had but little wind, and the master was sent in a
boat to observe whether there was any current, but he
found none.' In Clarke's Voyage, when off Cape East,
on the 5th of July, it is remarked, * We were now con-
vinced of
Htrong currt
sioned an ei
latitude at ii
last year, W(
the 12th of J
on the Asiat
current, we
half a mile
local circun
count of the
but little tid
westward; i
coast of Asii
of the Strait,
being little o
there was {
at the cntra:
the oth of J
serve the te
idea of a *
velocity.'
" The wr
June last, c
because the
Islands (at
of seven or
carried to t
conceivmg
nortli^rn Pj
found to be
the stronges
passage for
th^t strftit ii
Data.
40
the
vinced of our having been under the influence of a
Htrong current, setting to the north, which had occa-
sioned nn error of 20 miles in the computation of the
latitude at noon. At the time of our passing the Strait
last year, we experienced a similar effect.' On Monday,
the 12th of July, in latitude 60" 40* N. within the Stnit,
on the Asiatic side, it is remarked :— ' On examining the
current, we found it to set north-west, at the rate of
half a mile an hour.' And finally, in describing the
local circumstances generally, within the Strait, the ac-
count of the tide or current is thus given : — • We found
but little tide or current, and that little came from the
westward i' that is, athwart the Strait's mouth, from the
coast of Asia towards America, and neither into nor out
of the Strait. These extracts all prove the fact of there
being little or no current within the Strait ; and also, that
there was generally very little more outside, or even
at the entrance. For the set of 20 miles observed on
the oth of July, though called * strong,' can barely de-
serve the term ; at all events, it does not convey the
idea of a • violent current rushing in with the greatest
velocity.'
*' The writer of an article in the Quarterly Review for
June last, concludes, (and hypothetically enough) that
because there were tides so strong near the Aleutiaa
Islands (at least 5 or 000 miles off) a^ to run at the rate
of seven or eight ro'es an hour, the water * must be
carried to the nc. ward by these extraordinary tides ;*
coaceivmg that these tides, and the great body of the
uortli^rn Pacific, which he asserts ' all navigators have
found to be in motipo towards Behring's Strait, ' ' are
the strongest indic9.tions of an open and uninterrupted
passage for water (uninterrupted except by ice) through
th^t strfiit into the Polar sea ; and a decisive argument
Data. , -O
i^^-s^BfWTBsaftrs?'
5a
against any such bay as Captain Burney has imagined
to be formed by the junction of the two continents of
Asia and America.'
"That these strong tides, observed among the Aleutian
Islands, extend to the northward as far as fiehring's
Strait, seems to be only an imaginary assumption, and
till facts have proved that such currents are known to
exist, 'rushing in to the funnel-shaped mouth of the
Strait,' it is unnecessary to reply to the question,
'What becomes of all the water carried to the north-
ward by these extraordinary tides V If, indeed, such
currents were known to exist, * rushing in to the funnel-
shaped mouth of the Strait,' they would doubtless oc-
casion a rise and fall, no less remarkable than that which
takes place * in the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of
Tonquin.' But facts and experiments having shown
that there is little or no current either within, or out-
side, near the entrance of Behring's Strait; consequently,
no such effects are produced on the waters within the
Strait, for this simple reason — the want of such a cause,
as effects the • remarkable rise and fall in tbe Bay of
Fundy and the Gulf of Tonquin.'
' *' It is therefore needless to have recourse to the chi-
merical supposition of the existence of a communication,
under the 'ice, between the Pacific and the Polar sea,
in order to account for the well authenticated fdcU of
there being little rise or fall of water within Behring's
Strait. *'•:>' ^'-^-'HM^
" Besides, if the temperature of the water in the Pa-
cific be (as I presume we may conclude it to be) warmer
than that within Behring's Strait, it must of course
add necessity flow in (if it does at all) at the surface, as
1 observed before when treating this subject last Feb-
ruary ; and the philosophers of the north have told us
since, in the
water gro'w
floats incun
heat, with e
« Thougl
ficient to {
from the Ps
the surface
underneath
philosophei
serting so
the great b(
towards B
that directii
and those
They acki
as the obse
been few,
be local ai
argument
less equivo
Pacific toi
be indispm
drift wood
Aleutian 1
other trees
of Asiu ai
southerly
the same t
mentioned
ing bodies
the true c;
soft, and s
" Nothi
iinlriWtliJ
since, in the Edinburgii Review for June last, that ' when
water grows warmer it expands, and consequently
floats incumbent, communicating afterwards its surplus
heat, with extreme slowness, to the mass below/
" Though such sage authority would alone seem suf-
ficient to prove that any little current there may be
from the Pacific into Behring's Strait, must flow in at
the surface (as what little there was did \nfact\ and not
underneath, it is, however, as well to try how far the
philosophers of the south are borne out hy facts, in as-
serting so positively that ' all navigators have found
the great body of the northern Pacific to be in motion
towards Behring's Strait ; and that a current sets in
that direction along the coast of America on one side,
and those of Japan 'and Kamtschatka on the other.'
They acknowledge, however, at the same time, * that
as the observations of the currents on these coasts helve
been few, and the currents observed might therefore
be local and partial, they mean not wholly to rest theii"
ai^ument on them, but to have recourse to other aiid
less equivocal proofs, for the general movement of the
Pacific towards the north' They consider this * to
be indisputably proved by the immense quantities of
drift wood, thrown up on the southern shores of the
Aleutian Islands, consisting of fir, larch, aspen, aitd
other trees, the common produce of the two continents
of Asiu and America.' But as a proof of the more
southerly parts of the northern Pacific partaking of
the same motion, they present to notice ' a coxxoxa fact
mentioned by Stephen Glottof^ that among other float-
ing bodies thrown up on the Aleutian Islands, is found
the true camphor wood, and another sort, very white,
soft, and sweet-scented.'
" Nothing is more possible than that this camphor
-ferj^wo^*^ -^ T-'fT^f"^"*'"^^^'^'^
. . i / im-^ v*' - *'•
t*2
wood might come from the Asiatic islands, or some
parts of tropical Asia ; for the south-west monsoon
in the Indian and China seas is known to blow from
May till October, through the sea of Japan, and even
up to the head of the Gulf of Tartary, occasioning
strong currents to the northward, and which might carry
the camphor wood through the sea of Japan, the Straits
of Matsmai, or Perouse, and among the Kurile Islands ;
from whence a south-west swell, with gales of wind
from that quarter and the southward, might drift it
upon the Aleutian Islands, without asiuming a conti-
nuation of the general current so much further to the
northward.
"Perouse, after passing Tobaco Xima, about the
end of April, says, * a strong current to the northward
was experienced.' On the 5th of April, near the
Island of Kumi, he found * the current set to the north-
ward with extreme rapidity.' When at anchor in the
bay of Ternai, on the 22d of June, he observes, 'The
ebb and flood have no effect upon the direction of the
current half a league in the offing :, what we felt at our
anchorage varied only from south-west to south-east,
and its greatest velocity was only a mile an hour.' The
wind was constantly from the southward during his
stay in the Gulf of Tartary, till the 2d of August,
when he sailed ftom the Bay de Castries.
'I ♦^Aftw passing the strait which bears his name, we
find no mention of any current to the northward ; but,
OB the contrary, on the lOth of August, when off Cape
Grillon, he says, ' We found ourselves a little to the south-
ward of our reckoning, but only ten miles.' When near
the Kurile Islands, he remarks, • Our observations on
the 23d informed us that we had been drifted to the
westward, forty miles in two days ; and we ascertained
the accurac.)
the same po
ing them exe
longitude o
been carriec
passage froi
mention is va,
probable th(
oithis navig
during the a
(except in tfa
4,7' N. And
we shall fii:
It is thus d
time when v
Point, the c
to the N.E
approach tc
tion, but wa
hour. As \
more moder
3d, at the d
at the rate <
the two foil
and at I2(
south-east,
a half an 1
the N.E., a
at which tin
" It may
does not ge
time of the
Pacific, tha
babiHty not
53
the accuracy of these observations on the i4th, by setting
the same points we had observed on the 2l8t, and find-
ing them exactly where they ought to be, according to our
longitude observed.' On the 81st he found he had
been carried • ten leagues to the south-east.* On his
passage from the Kurile Islands to Kamtschatka, iw
mention is made of a current to the northward. It appears
probable therefore, from the facts stated in the voyage
of this navigator, that the northerly set of current, even
during the south-west monsoon, does not extend further
(except in the Gulf of Tartary) than the latitude of 46" or
47° N. And by referring to Clarke's or King's Voyage;
we shall find how it set on the east side of Nipon.
It is thus described : • On the 1st of November, at a
time when we were 13 leagues to the eastward of White
Point, the current set at the rate of three miles an hour
to the N.E. by N. On the 2d, as we made a nearer
approach to the shore, it continued in a similar direc-
tion, but was augmented in its rapidity to^ve miles aa
hour. As we »^^eded from the coast, it again became
more modera^ •.; inclined towards the east. Oil the
3d, at the dis v« r of 60 leagues from the shore, it set
at the rate of three miles an hour to the E.N.E. On
the two following days, it turned to the southward,
and at 120 leagues from the coast its direction was
south-east, and its rate did not exceed one mile and
a half an hour. It again on the 6th and 7th shifted to
the N.E., and its force diminished gradually till the 8th,
at which time we could no longer perceive any current.'^
" It may therefore be said that the north-east current
does not generally set further to the northward, at any
time of the year, in the western part of the northern
Pacific, than the parallels of 46" or 47° ; and in all pro-
babiHty not so far. ^ ' ■
I
54
"On the 2d of July, Captain Krusenstern, when in
latitude 34° 3' N. and longitude 190° 8' W. says : ' By
observation^ we found we had been carried by a current
37 miles to the N.E. by N. in the space of three days.
Qn the 2»th of June, the last day on which wo had
observed, the current ran 13 miles to the south.'
" In this part of the Pacific the current may fairly be
supposed to be strongest in its northerly direction at
this season ; because the sun being in that hemisphere,
all the winds in the southern Pacific blow from the S.E. ;
those in the western and north-western part of that
ocean, rounding gradually, in the vicinity of New Hol-
land and New Guinea, to the southward, and S.W.
north of the Equator, whe-e they are incorporated with
the S.W. monsoon, which then blows from the Indian
and China seas. Yet, even here, the current ran at the
rate of a little more than half a mile an hour ; and
indeed, as it set * to the southy with a greater velocity,
three days before, it may be termed variable, rather
than * perpetual.'
*« From the month of September or October, till the
month of March, * the great body of water of the north-
em Pacific' appears still less likely to be ' in a state of
perpetual motion towards Behring's Strait ;' at least all
that part of it which is to the northward of 20° N. ; be-
Cvtuse winds more from the N.W. than the S.W. prevail
geiieraljy quite across the ocean, as far at least to the
southward as that latitude. The sun being then in the
southern hemisphere, the N.E. trade wind is rarely
steady beyond the latitude of 15° or 13° N. in the
neighbourhood and westward of the Sandwich Is-
lands ; and, eastward of them, perhaps not so far. In
the north-west part of the Pacific the winds in these
months (from October till March) are all from tlie N.E.,
generally fi
coast of N
northerly, a
to the latitu
soon in this
to meridian
Madagasca
" Navigai
depend gei
winds by tfc
in this ocea]
chiefly so t<
likewise mu
ward or soi
to the westv
but especial
Cancer; an
mony of na
" After P(
October, in
lei of 37J° W
ced strong ^
' the birds aj
bytheviolei
chatka we
time the se
lashed to tl
ton of wate
" Nothin
and a heav
or other fl
Aleutian I
supposing
in that dire
-ii.-,i« r.A*
55
generally from about the latitude of 40° N. and the
coast of Nipon, down to the Equator^ and the more
northerly, as it is approached. And from the Equator
to the latitude of at least 16° or 18° S. the N.W. mon-
soon in this rainy season there prevails almost as steady
to meridians beyond the Society Islands, as it does from
Madagascar to Endeavor Strait.
" Navigators know (or ought to know) that currents
depend generally on the direction given to prevalent
winds by the power of the sun ; therefore, as the winds
in this ocean are locally variable and periodical, though
chiefly so to the southward of the Equator, the currents
likewise must be periodically changeable, to the north-
ward or southward, though having a general tendency
to the westward, on both sides the Equator, at all times ;
but especially north of the Line, as far as the tropic of
Cancer ; and such we find to be the case from the testi*
mony of navigators. *'
** After Perouse quitted Kamtschatka, in the month of
October, in running to the eastward, in about the paral-
lel of 37i° N. as far as the longitude of 180°, he experien-
ced strong gales from the south-westward ; and be says,
' the birds appeared to me to come from the south, driven
by the violence of the wind ;' and, ' since quitting Kamts-
chatka we had constantly a very heavy swell : at one
time the sea washed away our jolly-boat, which was
lashed to the gangway, and we shipped more than a
ton of water.'
*' Nothing is more possible than that winds like these
and a heavy swell would drive the ' camphor wood,*
or other floating bodies, upon or even beyond the
Aleutian Islands, towards Behring's Strait ; without
supposing the existence of a ' perpetual current,' so far
in that direction, to account for the fact. And though it
4 1
4i
56
'4-
is very possible that all the drift wood spoken of ' does
Dot stop at the Aleutian Islands,' and that some, taken
up by Captain Clarke in Behring's Strait, might have
come from thenqe; yet, as the Quarterly Reviewers
* have not been able to trace the * camplior wood' beyond
the Aleutian Islands,' it is a circumstance rather
against, than in favor of, their hypothesis. For as the
camphor wood was a floating body too, as well as the
other drift wood, and the famous ♦ log of makoganif,'
which they traced so marvellous a distance ; whatever
carried the one, ipight have carried the other. It is
therefore just as possible, that these trees of various
kinds, the productions ' of North America, and north, as
well as tropical Asia,' may be driven by tides, winds,
and swell together, in ail directions, among the Aleu-
tian Islands, and to the south, as well as to the north.
And this in fact we find to be the case; for both Cap-
tains Cook and Clarke make mention of ' pine trees
being driven upon the Sandwich Islands,' which in
all probability came from places either to the N.E. or
N.W. of those islands.
" Captain lisianski ' found lying on the beach' of
the small island which bears his name, ' several large
trunks of trees, the largest of which measured twenty-
one feet in circumference at the root ; and he says, ' they
were like the red-wood tree, that grows on the banks of
the Columbia river ' in America ;' and if they ever greW
there, they must have had the assistance of a southerly
and westerly current to enable them to reach Lisianski
Island, in defiance of the northerly one, which the
Quarterly Reviewers suppose must have carried the
'log of mahogany' all the way from the Isthmus of
Darien, all along the coast of America, 'through
Behring's Strait, and thence along the north coast of
America, a
Lisianski,
on the 16
uorth-wesi
we had th
which wai
southward,
great near
Islands it
passage is
the currei
towards t
Ladrone 1
"TheQ
ing in the
own creatii
year's drift
the ice inl
that ' the i
tion to the
Captain (
Captain C
N.' Nov
prove any
show — na
was fount
may inde(
Cook fel
tain Clar
dissolved
ceding w
the ice h{
with res
Datm.
■ *i- liXAi^-..- ■»»<». . ^ igife -
America, and down ' Baffin's Sea' to Disco. But indeed
Lisianski, when he passed between Aguian and Tinian
on the 16th of November, says, 'From Sitca (on the
north-west coast of America) to the Ladrone Islands
we had the currents from N.E. to the S.W. The last,
which was the strongest, carried us 140 miles to the
southward, and 200 to the westward. Its force was very
great near the tropic, but on approaching the Marian
Islands it shifted to the westward.' Though this
passage is oddly worded, yet it seems to imply that
the currents were found to set from the north-east
towards the south-west, all the w • from Sitca to the
Ladrone Islands.
" The Quarteriy Reviewers, however, stedfastly believ-
ing in the existfence of this perpetual current, of their
own creation, infer that * logs and trees of the preceding
year'sdrift had passed through the Strait (Behring's) with
the ice into the * Polar basin,' and attempt to prove
that • the ice, like the drift wood, has a progressive mo-
tion to the northward ;' because on the 17th of August
Captain Cook fell in with it in !at. 70' 41' N. and
Captain Clarke, ' on the 6th of July following, in 67'
N.' Now, as far as I can see, this does not seem to
prove any thing more than what the facts themselves
show— namely, the different situations in which the ice
was found at two distinct periods in different years. It
may indeed be presumetl, perhaps, that, because Captain
Cook fell in with it a month later one year than Cap-
tain Clarke did another, the sun's power might have
dissolved it further to the northward ; or, that the pre-
ceding winter might have been less severe, and therefore
the ice had not extended so far to the southward. But
with respect to the movement of the ice Uself, to the
■,^6=-™^"^ -^ "■- '
58
northward in either year, the words of both Captains
Cook and Clarke are expressly to the contrary.
"Captain Cook says, on the 2l8t of August, 'We
were at present in lat. 69° 32' N. and in longitude 195"
48' E., and as the mrin ice w^s not far from us, it is
evident that it noivcovered a part of the sea, which a few
days before had been free from it, and that it extended
further towards the south than where we first fell in with
it; Certainly it did, no less than sixty-nine miles ; for
he fell in with it in lat. 70° 41' N.
"' Captain Clarke says, in July the following year,
• We had traversed this sea since the 8th of the month,
and that, in lines parallel with the course we now steered ;
the first time, we were unable to penetrate so far north
as the second, by eight leagues, and that this last time
a compact body of ice had been observed, commonly
five leagues further south than btjfore. This clearly
proves that the vast and solid fields which we saw were
decreasing or moveable.' Again, in the year 1778,
* we did not discover the ice till we advanced to the
latitude of 70°, on the 17th of August, and we then
found it in compact bodies, -which extended as far as
the eye could reach ; and f which the whole or a part
was moveable, since, by it. lifting down upon us (from
the northward), we narro^^ly escaped being hemmed
in between it and the land.' * On the 26th of August,
in lat. 6})i° N. and longitude 184° E., we were ob-
structed by it in such quantities, that we could not pass
either to the north or west. In our second attempt we
never had an opportunity of approaching the continent
of Asia higher than 67° of latitude, nor that of America
in any part, except a few leagues between the latitude
68° and 68° 20' N. But in the last attempt, we were
obstructed by it three degrees further to the southward,'
«» From th
did find the
the south wi
vere among
was, that it
could not b
nearest the
it further to
ward), it r
summer mo,
superficies,
to the nortl
which I shi
cide for the
probable, ai
impossible :
little suspe
ing to our
fields or si
part of thi
formed anc
monly last
rays is ad
duced in t
spring ! !'
have been
months oi
peded by ' l
• all thus a:
have to W(
And, as tl
• the sea i
must be oj
no dl
«0
" From these passages it is clear, that these navigators
did find the mcrveable ice, in fact, further nd further to
the southward, from some cause, during the time they
vere among it, ir. hoth years. Their judgment on the spot
was, that it moved in that direaion, and in this they
could not be mistaken with respect to the ic? they saw
nearest the ships ; for it compelled them to recede from
it further to the southward. J/ it did not move (south-
ward), it must have extended itself, even in these
sumnter months, by augmentation, both in quantity and
superficies, from some (perhaps fixed) mass beyond it
to the northward, which they could not see ; a point
which I shall leave the philosophers of the south to de-
cide for themselves, but which 1 believe to be most im-
probable, and those of the north will of course pronounce
impossible : for they have just told us, whatl am sure 1
little suspected, and I dare say will be no less surpris-
ing to our arctic navigators when they leturn, that * the
fields or shoals of saline ice which during the greater
part of the year cover the arctic seas, are annually
formed and destroyed, and during the thaw, which com-
monly lasts about three months, the heat of the solar
rays is adequate to the dissolution of all the ice pro-
duced in the course of tlie autumn, the winter, and the
spring!!' So that as our polar navigators fortunately
have been in those arctic seas during these ♦ thre**
months of thaw,' they will not have been at all im
peded by ' the fields or shoals of saline ice,' as they are
' all thus annually formed and destroyed ;' but will merely
have to work Tom Cox's Traverse among the icebergs.
And, as the philosophers of the south inform us, that
• the sea through which these massy mountains float,
must be open, and where they can float a ship will find
no difficulty la sailing,' they must have, made great
'U
li.
■i
+*x*-*'r-5"."''""^"'
00
progress by this time in a navigation thus cleared so
completely of all obstruction (at least from tee), which
the ignorant and unlearned among us have foolishly
supposed to be the most formidable bar to their success.
" Of course, too, none of the ice seen by Captain Cook
and his successors (which the Quarterly Reviewers
term ' an impenetrable barrier') could have been of this
* saline' quality ; for when they quitted it, the ice re-
mained nearly in the same state as they found it, undis-
solved, and apparently undiminished, at the end of the
summer. What Captain Cook saw on the 17th of
August, in lat. 70" 41' N. is described by him as • per-
fectly impenetrable,' and extended from W. by S. to
£. by N. as far as the eye could reach. And on the
27th, we are told that ' there being little wind. Captain
Cook went in the boat to examine tl s state of the ice.
He found it was as impracticable for ships to pass it as
if it had been so many rocks. He particularly remarked
that it was all pure transparent ice except the upper
surface, v.hich was rather porous. It seemed to be
composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed
at sea. None of the productions of the land were found
incorporated or mixed with it. The Captain judged
that the larger pieces reached thirty feet, or more, under
water. He thought it highly improbable that this ice
could have been the production of the preceding win-
ter ; he was rather inclined to suppose it to have been
the production of many winters. It was equally im-
probable, in his opinion, that the litiie that now remained
of the summer could destroy even the tenth part of what
remained of this great mass, for the sun had already ex-
erted upon it the full force and influence of his rays.
The sun indeed, according to his judgment, contributes
very little towards reducing these enormous masses :
for thougli tb
considerable ^
a few hours a<
several succe
Captain Cook
same opinion
the philosophi
to be true, w
senses and ex
the south say,
entertained ai
Strait, into th
that he did er
evident, on th
have entertai
passage.
" Having <
perpetual mo
cific towards
and Kamstcl
its general dii
It has been
Strait, Capta
no current.'
tain Cook ol
eastward, ai
hours often
two o'clock
ward, and t
both strongc
there was a
ther to the
'the tide
the southw
for tliougli that luminary is aboTc the horizon for a
considerable while, it seldom shines out for more than
a few hours at a time, and frequently is not seen for
several successive days." And I dare say if poor
Captain Cook were alive now, he would still be ot the
same opinion. Neither would it be in the power of
the philosophers of the north to make him believe «Aa<
to be true, which is contrary to the evidence of his
genses and experience on the spot. And yet those of
the south say, ' it does not appear that Captain Cook
entertained any doubt of a passage through Behnngs
Strait, into the Arctic sea.' 1 will not venture to say
that he did entertain doubt, but I will say that it appears
evident, on the face of these extracts, that he could not
have entertained the least hope of finding any such
passage. . .
" Having thus far disposed of the question of a
perpetual motion of the great body of the northern Pa-
cific towards Behring'8 Strait,' 'along the coasts of Japan
and Kamstchatka,' let us next see what facts say to
its general direction aiong the west coast of America.--
It has been shown that, at the entrance of Behrings
Strait, Captains Cook and Clarke found 'very little or
no current.' When at anchor near Sledge Island, Cap-
tain Cook observes, 'the tide of flood came from the
eastward, and set to the westward, till between the
hours of ten and eleven o'clock ; from which time, till
two o'clock in the morning, the stream set to the east-
ward, and the. water fell three feet: the flood running
both stronger and longer than the ebb, we concluded
there was a westerly current, beside^ the tide.' fur-
ther to the southward, off Shoalness, he remarks that
•the tide of flood set to the north, and the ebb to
the southward,' *and among the Aleutian Islands
i
I
1^^
■f-- ■'■^fi^'u^--^. -^T^-. -i -.'■
tlie tides were strong and regular.' Thd general set
was W.S.W., and E.N.E., clear of them ; and various
among them, according to the directions of the chaii<
nels. Subsequent navigators appear to have found
them the same, not only theis, but every where else
(though setting in directions according to localities),
all along the N.W. coast of America, /row these Islands
as far down to the southward as 40° of latitude. Nor
do any of the navigators on that coast (as far I find)
mention the prevalence of a northerly current at any
time of the year.
" On the 11th of October, the day Captain Vancou-
Ter sailed from Nootka Sound for Monterey, he says,
* when in 100 fathoms water, by the lead when on the
ground, the vessel seemed to lie as if at anchor.' So
that there was no current at all here at that time, and
little or none seems to have been observed all the way
down to Monterey. After quitting that port ou the
2nd of December, he observes, on passing the Island of
Guadaloupe on the 8th, 'The observation made on
that and the preceding day exactly agreed with the
ship's run by log.' On the 23rd of December, when
in lat. 13° 60' N. and longitude 100° 55' W., Captain
Vancouver says, 'During our passage thus far from
Monterey, it did not appear that we had been much
affected by currents ; the log and observations having
agreed very nearly, and the difference between the lon-
gitude by dead reckoning and that which I considered
to be the true longitude, had not exceeded half a degree ;
the dead reckoning having been in general to the east-
ward of the truth. The wind in the north-western
quarter continued to blow a steady breeze, and as we
advanced to the south-eastward increased in force.'
* From this position, the current set towards the south
and east, and
casioned no di
of Panama), p
from thence to
them, the cunr
and trf the wei
pany Captain
try to discovei
jtosed existence
their extraordi
which the Go
also a tree of
reached the s'
coast of Amc
they got there
couver's accoi
coast are to
have gone th
reached Beh
that these log
nama by the
and afterwar<
along the co£
it seems mu<
these very lo|
somehow or
clear that th
to, or perhaj:
is not impos
they might hi
of Labrador,
through som<
and so acre
also, as well
and east, and sometimeB to the northward of east (oc-
casioned no doubt by an indraught towards the Gulf
of Panama), particularly near the Island of Cocos, and
from thence to the Galepagos Islands ; but after passing
them, the currents shifted, and ran to the southward,
and trf the westward. 1 have been tempted to accom-
pany Captain Vancouver hus far down the coast, to
try to discover, if possible, t' current on whose sup-
posed existence the philosophers of the south ground,
their extraordinary conclusion that the mahogany plank
which the Governor of Disco's table was made of, and
also a tree of logwood found there, • could only have
reached the spot on which they were found, along the
coast of America from the Isthmus of Danen.' How
they got there, God only knows ! But if Captam Van-
couver's account of the currents he met with along that
coast are to be credited, it is impossible they could
have gone thither by the route supposed, or ever have
reached Behring's Strait; even admitting it possible
that these logs had been drifted from the Gulf of Pa-
nama by the equatorial current, quite across the Pacific,
and afterwards driven all the way up to the northward
along the coasts of Nipon and Karatschatka. Indeed
it seems much more possible, and probable too, that
these very logs of mahogany found their way to Disco
somehow or other from the Gulf of Mexico. It is very
clear that the gulf-stream might have carried them up
to, or perhaps beyond Newfoundland, from whence, it
is not impossible that by other currents or local tides
they might have got into eddies close in along the coast
of Labrador, and even into Hudson's Bay, and out again
through some of the openings furthest to the northward,
and so across Davis's Strait to Disco. They migh*.
also, as well as the other log of mahogany ' picked up
!
i
'A
t
J _.j^_i^^_j.^(_-fii.Vit^f^S,-j^j~^^ . - ■* — ■r.-"P«^,?»*"Fa^V^;^
j^l « l , ■■■ , 11 ■ ..^. I ^I J. 'II
■ ■ ■ ■ ' l ' - i . l 'i. if Hi i .i 'i Hi",
In
64
by Admiral Lewenorae,' have been driven from some
part of the northern Atlantic, by southerly gales, and
heavy seas. For, floating at the sftrface, they would not
feel the influence there of the perpetual underflow trom
the north, which brings the icebergs down to the south*
ward, against the heaviest gales, because they are
deeply immersed in it. And if thus driven near the
S.W. part of Greenland, they might be carried by the
eddy and regular tides which have been observed on
the west side of it.
« But even admitting the possibility of these logs
entering Behring's Strait by the marvellous long route
supposed, another obstacle perhaps lies in the way
of our belief of their reaching Disco from thence. It is
true, the philosophers of the south have cleared the
tray for them at once, by assuming as a fact without
sufficient evidence, that Davis's Strait is open to the
northward because it has been stated that ' a perpetual
current runs there to the southward ; sometimes with a
velocity of four or even of five miles an hour.' This may
be so: but I apprehend that well-established fact and ex-
periment will prove this statement not to be quite corrects
Nor will any seamen who know what a current of five
knots is, believe that such a current can exist where whale
ships can keep on their fishing ground for weeks toge-
ther, without the least difficulty. But, as I observed
before on this subject last February, it is highly pro-
bable, that either from the interruption of lands^ or
shoals, between Greenland and America, a compara-
tively small quantity of current passes from the ' Polar
basin,' through Davis'f Strait, and that much of the
ice, as well as the current, may have Hudson's Bay for
its origin.
• ** I shall only add here, what the philosophers of the
north say
land to the
last voyag<
shut all al
no passage
is for the si
leaving the
having reac
" The 3ci
was, that * t
of soft oaze
bottom tow
near either s
few shells a
"With re
observe, tha
experience <
sider a bott(
being swept
which the si
be stony, ss
acquainted ^
of the most
just now, is
entire butto
though tidei
knots an ho
"The 4t
Burne/^ anc
soundings m
beyond the
viewers hav(
perhaps not
ray apprehei
Data.
1 some
es, and
Lild not
w tVora
I south*
ley are
ear the
by the
■ved CD
se logs
g route
be way
J. It is
red the
without
I to the
erpetual
9 with a
his may
and ex-
! corrects
t of five
re whale
ks toge-
jbserved
hly pro-
\andst or
lompara-
e * Polar
ti of the
} Bay for
»rs of the
north say to Davis's Strait being open, or closed by
land to the north. They are of opinion that ' Baffin's
last voyage showed that Davis's Strait is absolutely
shut all along the north side ; and proved that either
no passage exists on its western coast, or none which
is for the shortest time of the year practicable ;' thus
leaving the poor * log of mahogany*" no chance of
having reached Disco that way, from Behring's Strait.
" The 3d peculiarity mentioned by Captain. Bumey
was, that ' the bottom not being swept by stf earns, was
of soft oaze ;' and in Clarke's Voyage we read, that * the
bottom towards the middle was of soft slimy mucj, ; and
near either shore, a brownish sand in'?rmixed with a
few shells and small fragments of bones.'
" With regard to this fact, it is however sufficient to
observe, that perhaps few seamen who have had much
experience of tides and currents in soundings, will con-
sider a bottom of oaze or slime as any proof of its not
being swept by streams ; or admit that a bottom, over
which the strongest tide or current runs, must therefore
be stony, sandy, or gravelly ; for they cannot but be
acquainted with many examples to the contrary. One
of the most remarkable that occurs to my recollection
just now, is the Gulf of Martaban ; in which the almost
entire bottom is composed of the softest slimy mud,
though tides at ihe springs run at the rate of 7 or 8
knots an hour. . ,
"The 4tfa and last peculiarity noticed by Captain
Burnejf^ and perhaps the strongest of all, is, that ' the
soundings were observed to decrease to the northward
beyond the latitude of 68° 45' N.' The Quarterly Re-
viewers have endeavored to prove the contrary, though
perhaps not satisfactorily ; at least not according to
ray apprehension of Captain Bumey's meaning. Both
'T^i
Data.
I
P
-S^^^'t-"™,^?'^**
.»l^l^
66
he and they must be near the truth, as it lies some*
nt'here between them, in the small space of 12 feet only.
The fact is, the bottom is not very uneven where the
soundings vary only a fathom or two in as many leagues ;
and in this place they were certainly very regular.
"When Captain Burney says, that 'in steering to
the westward, they did not find the depth to increase,'
he seems clearly to mean, when at a considerable dis-
tance from the land, towards mid>channel. And when
Captain Cook ' states distinctly,' that in approaching
the American coast ' the water shoaled gradually ;' and
when he was obliged to anchor in 6 fathoms, it was
found that the water shoaled gradually towards the
land, ' he as clearly alludes to soundings very near
the land of America. And again, when in 6 fathoms,
he says, ' as we advanced to the westward the sound-
ings deepened,' (as of course they must to mid«*' '• ':•*'"
69
and America, where there perhaps woj/ be • valleys and
sttep shores,' it may be presumed that icebergs must
be produced there also, as well as at New Siberia, in
Baffin's Bay, and on the west side of Greenland. And
as the remarkable fact, stated by one party, that a// the
ice brought by the S.VV. current round Spitzbergen is field
ice, is not denied by the other, (for indeed they say that
icebergs are seen floating ow/y in Davis's Strait,) a ques-
tion arises ; viz. If it may be allowed probable, or even
possible, on these grounds, that icebergs may also be
formed on some parts of the lands extending from
Nova Zembla eastward to Greenland, pray what be-
comes of them, if they cannot pass through Davis's
Strait, and be not brought by the south-west current
round Spitzbergen, and be very seldom met with m
the eastern Greenland sea ?
" Not being composed of that saline ice, which we
are told ' is annually formed and destroyed,' they must
remain, and drive about in all directions, as long as
they h^ve sufficient depth of water to float in, not till
they 'are divided, scattered and dissipated,' as * the
shoals of ice in the Arctic seas commonly are, before
the end of June, nor till they are dissolved. For one
party tells * how little the influence of an Arctic summer
is, even, on fields of ice, perpetually surrounded as they
are by a freezing atmosphere created by themselves.'
On their hypothesis therefore it is evident, that as part
of these immense masses must remain at the end of the
summer, to that part the ensuing winter must add
something. When speaking on this subject on a former
occasion, I supposed it probable that the process of
melting and freezing may be going on in the Arctic re-
gions on the same body of ice (if of a magnitude to be
Sufficiently immersed) at the same time; and perhaps
S
* ■
in winter, as well as in summer, owing to the increasing
temperature of the water from the surface downwards
in proportion (perhaps) to its depth. The philosophers
of the north have since ' demonstrated that the Polar
seas are always ready, under the action of any frosty
wind, to suffer congelation; and though the annual
variations of the weathet are in these seas expended
on the superficial waters, without disturbing the vast
abyss below ;' yet as the water drawn up from a con-
siderable depth is wanner, within the Arctic circle than
what lies on the surface, the floating ice, accordingly,
begins to melt ' generally on the under side, from the
slow communication of the heat sent upwards.' Though
we are told, * that before the end of June the shoals of ice
in the Arctic seas are commonly divided, scattered and
dissipated, and a few weeks are commonly sufficient
to dissolve the floating ice ;' and though ' during the
thaw, which commonly lasts about three months, the
heat of the solar rays is adequate to the dissolution of
all the ice produced in the course of the autumn, the
winter and the spring!!' yet it is to be presumed
that the icebergs are not meant to be included in this
•all.' Indeed it is observed, that 'some of them are
2000 feet high ;' and, supposing the surface of the sea to
be at 52°, (which I dare say it never was, nor ever will
be in the Arctic seas,) an iceberg having only tiOO feet
elevation would require one hundred and fifty days for
its dissolution, and double that time, if the temperature
of the sea it floats in should be at 42°. Even at this
rate it cannot dissolve, for it would reciuire at least
ten months. But being indeed informed further, that
• within the Arctic circle, the surface of the ocean, being
never much warmer than about the 27° of Fahrenheit's
scale, is, in the decline of summer, soon cooled down
to the limit at
that even sue
there.
" And as '
by the slanti
tremendous s
gust,' the con
dent, that ic<
Polar basin,'
warmer temp
bulk, by the i
to be dimini
increase will
may take the
there be nol
cient to floa
for the temp*
there, the eff
greatly dimii
be the same
and hail, ad
form, collect
Cook terme(
has been, ai
bottom by it
and immov(
reached by
as far as soi
wards its n
disruption, I
it may pres
front, biddii
or the ragin;
attempts of
71
to the limit at which congelation commences,' it seems
that even such ah iceberg could never be dissolved
there.
" And as * in the space of a few weeks only, visited
by the slanting and enfeebled rays, frost resumes its
tremendous sway, and it begins to snow as early as Au-
gust,' the conclusion (at least on such data) seems evi-
dent, that icebergs even while they float within 'the
Polar basin,' and can find no passage thence into a
warmer temperature, are more likely to augment their
bulk, by the effect of frost, snow, and hail above, than
to be diminished below tbe surface of the sea. This
increase will be much greater still on such icebergs as
may take the ground, on the bank if there be one, but if
there be not, in the shoal water (which is very insuflS-
cient to float them) extending from Asia to America ;
for the temperature of the water being of course colder
there, the effect of dissolution under the surface will be
greatly diminis-hed ; whilst the augmentation above will
be the same as if it floated. Sp that every fall of snow
and hail, adding to masses of ice thus situated, must
form, collectively, one * impenetrable barrier,' as Captain
Cook termed what he saw. A barrier that doubtless
has been, and will remain there for ages, fixed to the
bottom by its own inertia, extending probably compact
and immoveable far to the northward of the parallel
reached by Cook ; and perhaps rising in mountains,
as far as soundings extend, and thence declining to-
wards its margin, which may be subject to continual
disruption, by the swell of the sea in deeper water: or,
it may present to the north a rugged perpendicular
front, bidding stern defiance to the roaring of the winds
or the raging billows of the sea, and mocking the vain
attempts of man to pass it. ^ . "^v. '
JgfJ . V# S t ^" »i >< «»^«»B»eyi«^S*aSyg>i^-''aa»M':^*lf ^ •,S«^*'f^-r"^P'*" '
72
'• That there must exist such a barrier as this, inclos-
ing an expanse to the northward of Behring's Strait (//
there be no land there), appears to me to be little
less than certain, and which must be kept still more
compact, along its northern boundary, by the constant
pressure . gainst it of the Polar stream from the north,
which I have supposed on a former examination of this
subject, and ^vhich therefore can find no egress from the
Polar sea, down to the regions of equatorial heat,
except to the eastward of Greenland and Spitzbergen.
• " Another circumstance, amounting almost to a proof
of the passage by Behring's Strait being closed up, even
against fish of large size, much more against ships, is,
that none of our navigators (at least as far as 1 know)
have mentioned seeing a single whale within the Strait,
where the water is not deep, and the ice, abundant. It
of course does not follow, that because they sazv none,
there were mt any ; yet if there had been any, it is
more than probable that our navigators would have
seen some of them during their stay there. And the
philosophers of the south remark, • that whales are gene-
rally found in those parts of the Arctic seas where ice
most abounds, and where it has taken the ground on
shores and banks.' They have also mentioned a ' cir-
cumstance of whales struck with harpoons in the sea
of Spitzbergen or in Davis's Strait, being found on the
north-west coast of America !' They consider .this as
affording an additional argument for a free communi-
cation between the Atlantic and Pacific, by way of
Behring's Strait.
" Though I have endeavored to prove that an ex-
panse to the northward of Behring's Strait is thus per-
petually incloseid by a conglobatipn of icebergs, on the
supposition of their formation o;i other lands surround-
ing the Polai
Davis's Strait!
on the grounc
none of these s
sueh ice as C
quality or kii
even ice of I
lands, must b
equally ' imp
tors saw was
summer as tii
Tliis fact sho
winter, the ai
nor even * di
Therefore, tli
evidently less
autumn, the ^
must be (by
wljoleof that
I |)resume is i
true, that mu(
be partially t
and being sul
in gales of v
move about i
ward of the i
" Much ol
is said to be
greatest part
seemed to b(
another plac
lat. 70° 41' r
the ice, whic
to be at least
Data.
^^fr^*1^;,""-
73
ing the Polar sea, as well as at New Siberia and in
Davis's Straits ; yet even allowing that this supposition,
on the ground it rests, is improbable, and admitting that
mtie of these stupendous masses arc so formed, but only
nuch ice as Captain Cook saw, whatever migiit be its
quality or kind ; yet it seems to me no less clear, that
even ice of that kind, collected as it is between two
lunds, must by its annual augmentation have formed an
equally ' impenetrable barrier : ' for what our naviga-
tors saw was evidently as abundant at the close of each
summer as they found it on their first arrival among it,
Tliis fact shows that * ail the ice produced there in the
winter, the autumn, and the spring, is not dissolved,'
nor even * dissipated,' though * divided and scattered.'
Therefore, the quantity dissolved each summer being
evidently less, generally, than what is ' produced in the
autumn, the winter, and the spring,' the consequence
must be (by congelation at least) oxi iin.rease on the
whole of that solid mass further to the northward, which
I presume is immoveably fixed on the bottom. It is very
true, that much of the ice along the southern margin may
be partially dissolved by the rays of the summer sun ;
and being subject to disruption by the motion of the sea,
in gales of wind (from the southward), may therefore
move about in an extent of many leagues to the south-
ward of the main body, as our navigators found it did.
" Much of the ice may be of that saline quality which
is said to be ' annually formed and destroyed,' but the
greatest part of what Cook saw was not ; for he says, * it
seemed to be wholly composed of frozen snow.' In
another place he says, on the 17th of August, when in
lat. 70° 41' N. * We were at present close to the edge of
the ice, which was as compact as a wall, and appeared
to be at least 12 feet high ;' Captain Cook particularly
Data. K
It ■■
•»
■^^^'-*-^«^:
. . ■^f^ss!:^.-^'^^:'''
74
remarked, that the ice was all pure and transparent,
except the upper surface, which was rather ' porous.'
And as the philosophers of the north have assured us,
that pure transparent ice projects one tenth, as it swims
in the sea, even this part of the ice must have been im-
mersed to within 12 fathoms of the bottom : but Cook
observes, • further to the northward it seemed to be much
higher ; and in all human probability, the ice at no
great distance to the northward, beyond what he saw,
was immoveably fixed at the bottom, and continued so
as far as soundings extend. For it is mentioned in Clarke's
Voyage, that the height of the highest ice they saw « was
estimated at 16 or 18 feet,' which therefore must have
been immersed to within two or three fathoms of the
bottom, according to the soundings they had at the time.
" It is also worthy of remark, that the water was
found to be somewhat shallower on the coast of
America than that of Asia, at an equal distance ; our
navigators were therefore able to penetrate near three
degrees further to the northward, on the side of
America, • because they came up with the ice in both
years sooner, and in larger quantities, on the coast of
Asia.' This strong fact seems of iu^lf almost suffi-
cient to prove, that the heavy ice further to the north-
ward must have been aground in some depth ; for if
it were all water-borne, and moveable, as the ice was
which^our navigators saw nearest the ships, why should
it not move as far to the southward on one coast, as
it did on the other, so long as it could float? The only
reason can be, because its progress in that direction
was sooner stopped, by the bottom being nearer the
surface on the coast of America, than it was on that
of Asia, and consequently giving to the main body of
fixed ice, a general direction of about E.N.E. and
W.S.W., ttccoi
of water.
"Whether \
reach as far at
offered my sur
I agreed in op
that the sea w\
from ice in the
blya warmer
Pole itself, th
as far as 75"
strike the Po
six months;
then to lear
however, ind
They assure i
Pole, the acti
solstice, one-l
and sufficient
ice one inch at
that^' it may i
Pole itself, th
in the space <
of ice. We i
to be sufficiei
It should lik(
zinp.4S of th(
those singnh
ways to dart
rate climates
often by one
account, perl
of the polar
four feet.'
irent,
rouB.'
dus,
wimfl
1 im-
Cook
much
at no
saw,
ed so
irke's
*wa8
:have
)f the
I time.
r was
ist of
i; our
three
de of
1 both
ast of
t suffi-
north-
for if
e was
should
ast, as
le only
rection
rer the
m that
ody of
i, and
W.S.W., according to the probable line of equal depth
of water.
" Whether this barrier may at any time of the year
reach as far as to the Pole itself, is a question I have
offered my surmises on before, regarding the winter ; and
I agreed in opinion with the philosophers of the south,
that the sea wilt be (/ only say may be) there found free
from ice in the summer ; • presuming that there is proba-
bly a warmer summer temperature to dissolve it at the
Pole itself, than any where else, to the southward of it,
as far as 75' or 80" ; because, when the sun's rays first
strike the Pole, they will be felt there incessantly for
six months; but with what force and effect I had
then to learn. For this information we are now,
however, indebted to the philosophers of the north.
They assure us, that ' it may be shown that, under the
Pole, the action of the solar light is, at the time of the
solstice, one-fourth part greater than at the Equator,
and sufficient in the course of a day to melt a sheet of
ice one inch and a half thick: They further inform us,
thatj* it may be proved by experiment^ that, under the
Pole itself, the power of the sun at the solstice could,
in the space of a week, melt a stratum of five inches
of ice. We may hence fairly compute the annual effect
to be sufficient for thawing to the depth oi forty inches.
It should likewise be observed, that owing to the ha-
zinp.-ts of the atmosphere in the northern latitudes,
those singular emanations, which are now found al-
ways to dart from an azure sky, and in the more tempe-
rate climates to diminish the calorific action of the sun,
often by one-fifth part, can scarcely exi^t. On this
account, perhaps, the estimate of the annual destruction
of the polar ice may be swelled to the thickness of
four feet,'
m
n
<-'
76
'* Tliere appears to l)e some mistake or diHcordance
in this computation; for, in the first case, n^ v' , so-
lar light can be shown to he sufficient in the o^ <.(if3 of
a day to melt a sheet of ice of an inch and . IvM'
thick,' it could in the space of a week melt a stratum
of ieti inches and a half, instead of *Jive ;' and by the
same rule tlie annual effect may l>e sufRcient for thaw-
ing to the depth of eighty-four inches and a half in-
stead of * forty ; or perhaps the estimate of the annual
destruction of polar ice may be swelled to more than
eight feet instead of* four.' If, on the other hand, it be
allowed, that only ' five inches' are melted in the space
of a week, there cannot be so much as an inch and a
half melted in the course of a day, as is stated in the
first case.
" Whether either of these computations will be ^provaV
to be correct by the experiments Captain Buchan is gone
to make in that quarter this year of our Lord, God
knows ; but, if he should have proceeded between Green-
laud and Spitzbergen, I fear not ; for the route to be pur-
sued towards the Pole with most probability of success,
must doubtless be midway between Spitzbergen and Nova
Zembla, for the reasons I have before given. Even the
philosophers of the south acknowledge that 'the lands
are usually surrounded with ice,' and therefore recom-
mend that ' ships, instead of coming near the land, and
endeavouring to |,»ass through narrow straits,' ought to
avoid the land, and keep as ' much as possible in the
open sea, and in or near the edge of the current, Avhere
the sea may be expected to be free.' Those of tlie
north indeed go still further, and tell us, that a ' few
weeks are commonly sufficient to disperse and dissolve
the floating ice, and the sea is at last open for a short
and dubious interval to the pursuits of the adventurous
1
mariner.' Ti
reaching the 1
though not t
' as the cold
the higher lati
the Polar ba»'
every summei
could seize tl
push on to the
of penetratin
• the project c
they vntst at
they believe t
Burney are, a
inclosed sea.''
are confessed
they have tal
any hope at a
*' There i&
ence and leai
have read oni
their faith u|
astonished,
thing deniei
as wise as
a state of in(
no opinion
the retnarkec
and 17 was
bergs passiuj
much talk a
' it would b(
cussion on t
,vr..-"^li&plfe!fc'
77
mnrinor.' Their opinion fts to tho practicaMlity of
reaching the Pole seems, upon the whole, rather slender;
lliongh not that it is impossible : for though they say,
• as the cold increases but very little in advancing to
the higher latitudes, the vast expanse of ice which covers
the Polar basin may be nearly dissolved at the close of
every Hummer; and i/the intrepid navigator, therefore,
coidd seize the short and quivering interval, he might
push on to the Pole itself;' yet * they consider the scheme
of penetrating to the Pole itself as vwre daring' than
• the project of finding a N. W. passage to China ; which
they must at the same time suppose to be impossible, if
they believe that the peculiarities observed by Captain
Burney are, as they assert, ' obviously indications of an
inclosed sea." Of the success of either plan their hopea
are confessed to be ' extremely slender ;' but the ground
they have taken leaves them in fact as much without
any hope at all, as 1 confess I am, of success.
** There is another point on which these men of sci-
ence and learning differ so materially, that those who
have read one review, and perhaps felt disposed to pin
their faith upon it, without much consideration, arer
astonished, on perusing the other, to find almost every
thing denied, or apparently refuted ; leaving them just
as wise as they were before, or perhaps still worse, in
a state of indecision and doubt between both, or with
no opinion at all. The question I mean is, whether
the remarked chilliness of our climate in the years 1810
and 17 was in any degree owing to the influence of ice-
bergs passing in the Atlantic, which there has been so
much talk about ? The philosophers of the south say,
* it would be a waste of words to enter into any dis-
cussion on the diminution of temperature, which must
i
*
78
necessarily be 'occasioned by the proximity of large
mountains and islands of ice ; and therefore it is equally
clear, that our climate must have been aflfected by the
vast accumulation of ice on the east coast of Greenland.
It can scarct ly be doubted, therefore, that'the remark-
able chilliness of the atmosphere, in the summer months
of 1816 and 1817, was owing to the appearance of ice
in the Atlantic'
" Now my own sensations assure me, that a northerly
wind is coidf and the thermometer that they have not de-
ceived me. I also suppose this wind to be cold here,
because it comes from regions where ice is known to
abound. And if there were as muck ice due west of us,
and the wind came from it towards us, I dare say the
atmosphere under the lee of it would be chilled by it
to a ceilain degree, according to the distance from it ;
but how much and how far, I shall leave to the philo-
sophers of the north to * compute* Though these philo-
sophers deny all this, yet at the same time they seem to
me to acknowledge it.
"After most ably explaining the Mrue principles
which regulate the distribution of heat over the globe, in-
dependent of every hypothesis, by the direct appeal to
experiment and observation,' they assure us, that ' what-
ever may be the vicissitudes of the Polar ice, they
cannot in any sensible manner affect the climates of the
lower latitudes ;' that ' the idea is quite chimerical that
any wmds could ever transport the Polar influence to
our shores.' Some persons * have imagined that the
mountains or islands of ice which are occasionally
drifted into the Atlantic ocean must be sufficient by
their frigorific influence to modify the ciiaracter of our
climate ; but a little reflection will convince us that
such remott
significant'
" After e
they .remarl
been reckoi
notoriously
are occasion
which must
consequentl
the usual rij
"Now, t
winds migh
ocean, and
might checli
means folio
northerly w
so extensivi
For it isjusi
these northe
journey som
Pole. But,
way from tl
whence they
clearly, thoi
philosophei
tively acqui
somehow, t
it is ackno^
account of (
our *severe\
at variance!
be the vicis
sensible m^
tudes;' anJ
■'■ui?iW=Ji« jr.jM.i»»*. ;■-
'■^d:'ft?i^('!K''<.iih-
i^««il^^^J', i
79
such remote influence on our climate must be quite in-
significant' ' . .
" After enlarging at length, and with great mgenuity,
they .remark, that * the three last seasons, which have
been reckoned very open, have succeeded to winters
notoriously cold and protracted ; for our severe winters
are occasioned by the prevalence of northerly winds,
which must arrive at the Polar sea /row the south, and
consequently transpor.; so much warmth as may check
the usual rigor of the frost ! !'
"Now, though it is possible that these northerly
winds might have come all the way from the Pacific
ocean, and 'have transported so much warmth as
might'check the usual rigor of the frost,' yet it by no
means follows of course that they must ; or that our
northeriy winds were ever entitled, by having traversed
so extensive a track, to the denomination of south.
For it is just as possible, and much more probable, thai
these northeriy winds originated and commenced their
journey somewhere in our hemisphere on this side the
Pole. But whether they did, or did not, come all the
way from the Pacific, as southeriy winds, to the Pole,
whence they became northerly as to us here, it is, however,
clearly, though perhaps inadvertently, admitted by these
philosophers, that these said northeriy winds had posi-
tively acquired a frigorific * character,' somewhere, and
somehow, on the passage to our • lower latitudes.' For
it is acknowledged that * their prevalence occasioned (on
account of their * frigorific influence'it may be supposed)
our * severe winters:' an acknowledgment apparently
at variance with the former opinion, that * whatever may
be the vicissitudes of the Polar ice, they cannot in any
sensible manner affect the climates of the lowet lati-
tudes ;' and that • the idea is quite chimerical, that any
XT
•';j;;.-f^O»''3;t v
.^-^^ --L*^-*^rrSr5^-:'"
80
winds could ever transport the Polar influence to our
shores.' *,
** These northern philosophers have satisfoctorily ex-
plained the true principles >vhich regulate the distribu<
tion of heat over the glob(.>, particularly regarding the
temperature of the earth, at certain depths. But in
applying these principles to the temperature of the sea,
some of the conclusions appear not so well to accord
with experiment and observation. They say, that * in
the more temperate regions of the globe, the superficial
waters of lakes and seas, as they grow warmer, and
therefore specifically lighter, still remain suspended by
their acquired buoyancy ; but whenever they come to
be chilled, they suffer contraction, and are precipitated ;
Jience the deep water of lakes and seas is always con-
giderably colder than what floats at the surface.' [Query,
— Would not the deep water of a. frozen lake or sea in
the more temperate regions be warmer than at the sur-
face, for the same reason that it is so in Polar regions ?]
It is then said, that * the gradation of cold is distinctly
traced to the depth of 20 fathoms, belo'w nhich tlie di-
minished temperature continues nearly uniform, as far
as the sounding line can reach.'
•' Though the sea, as well as the land, may have its
isothermal lines, yet at what various depths, according
to the temperature of the atmosphere, climates, and
other mutable circumstances, has not yet been disco-
vered ; but certainly generally far below the depth of
twenty fathoms. For it would seem that thel*e must be
at tlie surface, on two parallels, somewhere between the
Equator and the Poles, two stations, or points, not filed,
but changeable, and dependent on the atmospheric tempe-
rature over them : between which stations, or points,
and the Equator, iXie wAiet \\'\\\ be progressively colder,
in proportion
and its respe
proportion pe
this general n
where there i
land.
" The folio
the tropics, a
the temperatu
surface of th
warmer than
generally, bee
local causes
and in all pr(
the fluid in t)
" On the 2
longitude of I
perature of th
and at the de
the time bein
lat. 50° 20' S.
of the air wi
60 fathoms 2
of May, 56 m
146° 16'W.tl
equal at 22*°
On the 2^d c
cific, the temi
depth of 25 ft
125 fathoms
decrease of t
50 fathoms,
examples mi^
necessary. <
Data.
■' *!.^*5^jf-^i^fT^*=^*>'*
81
in
in proportion perhaps to its depth ; and between each,
and its respective Pokt the water will be warmer in
proportion perhaps to its depth from the surface. But
this general rule will not, of course always hold good,
where there are soundings, or in confined waters near
land.
*♦ The following experiments will prove that between
the tropics, and in the temperate zones at sea, when
the temperature of the atmosphere exceeds that of the
surface of the sea, the superficial water is generally
warmer than that at certain dopths beneath it (I say
generally/, because in soundings and confined waters
local causes may effect many exceptions to this rule),
and in all probability, the greater the depth the colder
the fluid in that case.
" On the 23d of Feb., in lat. 62" S. and about the
longitude of 50° W., Captain Krusenstem says the tem-
perature of the air was 12° Reaumur, of the surface 10',
and at the depth of 55 fathoms 81°; the whole depth at
the time being 75 fathoms^.-~Or the 9th of March, in
lat. 50° 20' S. and longitude 72° 45' W. the temperature
of the air was 4' R., the surface 2h° ; at the depth of
60 fathoms 2h° ; and at 100 fathoms 1^°.— On the 24th
of May, 56 miles south of the Equator, and in longitude
146° 16'W., the temperature of the air and surface were
equal at 224° ; and at the depth of 100 fathoms 12J°.
On the 2id of June, on the tropic of Cancer, in the Pa-
cific, the temperature of the surface was 20° 5' R. ; at the
depth of 25 fathoms 19° 5'; at 50 fathoms 17° 2' ; and at
125 fathums 13° 3'; so that there was a progressive
decrease of temperature of 1° in 25 fathoms ; 3° 3' la
50 fathoms, and 7° 2' at 125 fathoms. Many movft
examples might be given to the same effect, if it vvcse
necessary. One very remarkable one is mentioned by
Data, • L
w^r
[¥;"■■
.■;>-i'
82
Mr. Clarke Abel in his recent work. He infortans iss
that Captain Wauchope of H. M. S. Eurydice, when
within a few leagues of the Equator, put his apparatus
overboard, and allowed it to descend till it had run
out 1400 fathoms of line, but he estimated the perpen-
dicular depth at 1000 fathoms. The temperature of
the surface was 73". On drawing up the instrument,
he found the thermometer marking 42° ; a difference
of temperature of 31°. And there can be no doubt
but that the difference of the temperature was progres-
sive from the surface down to that depth.
" The philosophers of the north observe : ' That in
shallow seas, the cold substratum of liquid is brought
nearer to the surface ;' but though as a general axiom
this may be true, yet it may not be relied on in particu*
lar cases, much less ' that the increasing coldness of
the water drawn up from only the depth of a few
fathoms, may therefore indicate to the nayigator who
traverses the wide ocean, his approach to banks or
land.' Indeed no navigator who has had any experi-
ence in the matter would, I apprehend, place the least
dependence on so precarious a guide ; for he must
know that many experiments would show its falli-
bility.
" Some instances, in proof of this, may be collected
from the journal of Captain Hall of the Lyra, lately
published, who made some experiments on the tempe-
rature of the surface near the Loochoo Islands, and in
the Yellow Sea.
** On the 19th of July, when off Chusan in, 32 fathoms
water, the temperature of the surface of the sea was
78° and 80° ; and on the 22d, in 43 fathoms, it was only
77° and 72° ; but when at anchor in 3i fathoms, in the
Gulf of Peecheelee, in latitude 38° 42' N., and longi-
tude 117° 4
of the surfa
August, wh
at noon, am
warmer tha
in Napakiai
surface of tl
Island of I
longitude 1
colder^ beini
Again, on il
harbour, wl
temperature
(or 7 or 8 c
there before'
lower, beinj
instances, th
least) the ne
the depth of
"Mr. Cl£
a few experij
the sea, in s
which, thoi
sive. They
Date.
Mo
1
S
4
5
6
July 1K16.
23 8 A.M.
24 Noon
25 8 A.M.
8 P.M.
26 6 A.M.
87 11 P.M.
3;
3«
iiife'"!^*
83
tude 117° 49' W., on the 27th of July, the temperature
of the surface was as high as 82". Also on the 3d of
August, when at anchor oflf Peiho, the surface was 82°
at noon, and 80° at midnight, and there it was generally
mrmer than the atmosphere itself. When at anchor
in Napakiang harbour, the general temperature of the
surface of the sea was about 83°, but out at sea. off the
Island of Loochoo, when in latitude 26° 36' N. and
longitude 127° 56' W. the surface was 4 or 5 degrees
colder, being on the 14th and 15th only 79 i and 78 .
A-ain on the 20th of October, at anchor in Napakiang
harbour, when the autumnal cold had lowered the
temperature of the sea's surface there to 75 \ and 75 ,
(or 7 or 8 degrees 6eW what it was when anchored
there before) yet in the Japan sea the surface was also
lower, being 74° and 73°. Thus in these particular
instances, the water l^ecame warmer (at the surface at
least) the nearer the land was approached, and also as
the depth of water decreased.
" Mr Clarke Abel has also published the result ot
a few experiments made by him on the temperature of
the sea, in soundimrs, both at the surface and bottom,
which, though useful and satisfactory, are not conclu-
sive. They are shown in the following table.
Date.
s
o
NolJuly 1816.1
s
a
o
193
Tempe-
rature.
Place.
Difference ot
Temperature
IS 8 A.M. 35 01
24 Noon 136 24
25 8 A.M. 37 30 132 40l20
8 P.M. 116
26 6 A.M. 37 58 121 S-JJlS
2711P.M. 38 12 120 SOJlft
Open Sea.
do.
do.
do.
Amongst the
Mectaw Islands.
GulfofPec-
chcelee.
XI
65
67
62
66
66
72
O a
o
2
4
5
r
3 S
V CQ
.S E
■Sa
o
9
4
5
3
o
11
8
10
3
!
■ ,,JO«4jlS; »:-
84
*• From these experiments (Mr. Clarke Abel observes)
it appears : * 1st. That the sea diminishes in its tem-
perature in proportion to its depth.' *2d. That the
difference of the tempei ture of the surface and any
given depth, within a certain range, is greater at sea
than near the land.* * 3d. That the difference of the
temperature at the surface and bottom is greatest when
that of the air and surface is kast.^
"The 1st and Sd 'positions appear evident on the
face of the ' xperiments, but the experiment No. 3
seems to affect the correctness of the 2d position ; for
the difference of the surface, and 20 fathoms depth,
was 5 degrees, and by that of the Isi experiment, made
further from the land, there was a difference of 9° only
in 40 fathoms ; which was less in proportion than near
the land. It is remarkable, however, tliat all these
experiments (except the 3d) prove, as far as they go,
that in the depth of 15 fathoms the water at the bottom
was invariably warmer, than it was found to be at the
depth of 40 fathoms *in the open sea;' and in the
Gulf of Peecheelee, where the 6th experiment was
made, it was no less than T degrees warmer at the
depth of 15 fathoms.
"The lower state of the atmosphere when the 3d
experiment was made, would seem to account for the
temperature of the water at the bottom being so much
below what it was found to be by the others.
" There is also a much greater proportional difference
of the temperature of the air ar d water at the depth of
20 fathoms, than there was by the rest of the experi-
ments.
'* These experiments also prove, that in these * shal-
low seas,.' however, the cold substratum of liquid, was
f\ot brought ' earrs the surface, at this season of the
year ; so tha
ing * coldness
a few fathom
verses the wi(
but the revers
"After thij
inquiry, I shi
that as the
ultimately dej
cable for ships]
into the Pacifi
said and writ
two persons a
and none have
seem that this
ance, ought t(
as the lastt an(
cult to be solv
too (if ever the
close of a toils
by sickness oi
anxiety and fa
they came, or
their further pi
" The despj
are gone, to ej
seems as if a
labyrinth, by
pass out of it
the world supi
that there migl
doubt, and no]
twice tried, bi
barrier which
80
year ; so that in these instances, there was no increas-
ing * coldness of water drawn up from the depth of only
a few fathoms, to indicate to the navigator, who tra-
verses the wide ocean, his approach to land or banks ;'
but the reverse. ■ ' -
"After this digression from the chief point of my
inquiry, I shall now concAde, by merely observing,
that as the success or failure of both expeditions
ultimately depends upon there being a passage {practi-
cable/or ships) or no passage, from * the Polar Basin'
into the Pacific,~a point, on which so much has been
said and written by philosophers — on which scarcely
two persons are found to agree — all have their doubts,
and none have any positive knowledge, — it would really
seem that thisy of all others, from its superior import-
ance, ought to have been first determined, and not left
as the last, and in all human probability the most diffi-
cult to be solved by our Polar navigators. And that
too (if ever they reach so far) near the long-hoped for
close of a toilsome voyage, when they may be reduced
by sickness or deaths ; or at least so worn down by
anxiety and fatigue, as to be unable to return the way
they came, or to surmount the difficulties opposed to
their further progress.
" The despatching these expeditions by the way they
are gone, to explore a passage through Behring's Strait,
seems as if a person were ordered to enter a certain
labyrinth, by a well known passage on one side, but to
pass out of it on the opposite by another, which one half
the world supposed there might be, and the other half
that there might not— of whose existence most were in
doubt, and none knew any thing, except a few, who had
twice tried, but could find no passage beyond a certain
barrier which tlteji found to be insurmountabk.
T^m
Pf
"is*
86
" Nov if this very barrier should happen to l)e gene-
rally considered as Ihe probably chief obstacle to be sur-
mounted, and could, without much difficulty, be ap-
proached from the side where it lay ; certainly the most
rational, the i'4.ost prudent and advisable course should
seem to be, first of all to have this barrier examined on
that side, and its nature and extent fully ascertained,
before (he person be sent on what people of common
sense would perhaps call ' a wild-goose-chase,' without
such information. - :. -^ '. -^ • i i j
" However, though this part of the expeditions may
fail, yet if our navigators return, let them have reached
where they may, they will at least bring back with
them more correct hydrographical information than
any we can have at present. And in all probability
the observations they may have been enabled to make
in the Arctic regions will enlarge the bounds of sci-
ence; and for that alone, though no other benefit
should be derived from them, it was highly befitting a
country like this to send them out."
In the month of October, 1818, the Dorothea and
Trent arrived, after the most strenuous, but unsuccess-
ful endeavors to penetrate towards the North Pole,
between Greenland and Spitzbergen. The Isabella and
Alexander also returned to Deptford on the 21st of
Noveml»er ; and in the beginning of the following year
Captain Ross published an account of his voyage.
A writer in the Quarterly Review, No. 41, published
in May 1819, in criticising that work, speaks of the
two voyages in these terms : " The failure of the Polar
expedition was owing to one of those accidents to
which all sea voyages are liable, more especially when
to the ordinary sea risk is superadded that of a naviga-
tion among fields and masses of ice." Now, as a mere
looker on, I
Captain Buc
to the eastwa
advanced fu
been possibl
Globe, he ne
" Of the
hardly know
for it." He
count for it
Captain to 1
consoles hin
perienced in
failure of the
at rest the 1
non-existenc
glance " at
it." The fir
candidly ack
there is such
fin, though I
is usually re{
few or none,
any more tl
ginary curre|
Baffin's Ses
Baffin's yeri
it one of thj
a practicabll
show by anj
In const
tions, the qj
way of thi
northward
■jj]^'
ene-
sur-
; ap-
nost
ould
d on
ined,
imon
hout
may
ched
with
than
bility
make
f 8ci-
enefit
Ling a
I and
ccess-
Pole,
la and
1st of
5 year
jyage.
lished
of the
Polar
nt^i to
' when
laviga-
amere
looker on, I am inclined to think. i.itli Phoca, that if
rantoin Bachan had been ordered to make A« attempt
TZeaZrd of Spitsbergen he might perhaps l>a.e
advanced further than he did; though even if .thad
^en possible for him to ?»»*«/«'"*","'"*''
riobe he never would have reached Behnngs Strait
"""of the other Voyage (says the Rev ewer) we
hardly know in what terms to speak, or how to account
for it " He does, however, in the seque , seem to ^-
llnt for it pretty well. And, »f/. '>elabo«n"S the
Captain to his heart's content with h.s g"™^;?"'"'**
consoles *i».«;/ under " *« <1'«»PP;»'"™' ""^ '^^
Dcrienced in common with the rm of the mrld, at the
E of the two expeditions, which bade so f<>»_«[ P°^
Baflin's veracity has gone far ^ »°*''f • »°,f J'*
it one of the Revk««T's Wrongest argum«U in favor of
a pmcticable passage for ships ; as I shall endeavor to
'"Z llX^co of the failure of both these expedi-
tions, the question of a practicable P^ "l^' :?*!' ^,
way of the Pole, or through Davis s Strart to the
Tthward and westward, and through Behnngs
WF
't4l
m
4:
■AH
Strait into the Pacific, of course remained in precisely
the same doubtful state as it did before they sailed.
Captain Ross had been deceived by a reliance on his
own eyesight, and therefore did not examine, with all
due care and attention, the entrance and extent of
Lancaster Sound, which many of the Officers of the
Expedition believed to be open to the westwp.) d ; it was
therefore thought proper to send out another jjcpedi-
tion to explore it completely.
Many were sanguine enough to think it wo\ild be
found to lead into the Polar Sea, or along the North
Coast of America, whence the long-sought for passage
through Behring's Strait would be accomplished, and
none more so than our Reviewer.
In the Quarterly Review, No. 35, at pages 211, 212,
he took much pains to show that his " perpetual cur*
rent to the southward through Baffin's Sea did exist,
because Baffin's Bay did not ; as it would be difficult to
explain how any current could originate at the bottom
of such a Bay, much less a current that is stated to
run sometimes with a velocity of four ana even five
miles an hour ;" and the fact of " several vessels having
been as high as Baffin, without observing the least ap-
pearance of land, removed all doubt as to the non-
existence of the Bay, as drawn in the charts." From
his mvn mind it certainly did.
In the Quarterly Review, No. 36, for June following,
-while the two Expeditions under Buchan and Ross
were pending, he *' discussed the points on which the
probability of their success might be calculated ; and
which he thought would mainly depend on two circum-
stances ; the existence of a circumvolving current
from the North Pacific into the Atlantic, which would
prove the communication ; and of a great Polar Sea
without lam
does not se
plation. He
only point to
nent directi(
Though I
himself, with
through Bel
mahogany i
those waters
pletely dispi
he admits, c
being a tri/
that Strait ;
Lieutenant ]
fessed that 1
rather inlanc
impossibility
down to Di$
notwithstant
of there be
he still din
circumvolvi:
Oceans, am
declared *•
current cou
protesting
** whatever
trary, there
great body
to the soutr
This pej
favorite nc
'*so circuit
Data.
89
n-
,e
without land." As to any obstruction from ice there, it
does not seem to have entered at all into his contem-
plation. He considered " the important, and mdecd the
only point to be ascertained, was the general and perina-.
nent direction taken by the great body of the Pacific.
Though he seems to have been perfectly satisfied
himself, with « having traced the waters of the Pacific
through Behring's Strait." and along with it a plank of
mahogany all the way to Disco ; yet the movement of
those waters towards Behring's Strait seems to be com-
pletely disproved by Phoca's statement of facts, though
he admits, on the words of Cook and Clarke, of there
and I being a trifling superficial current to the northward m
that Strait ; and which has since been confirnnd by
Lieutenant Kotzebue. But as the Reviewer ha "-
fessed that he does " now know there is such a Bay
rather inland Sea, as that of Baffin," he must admu
impossibility of the mahogany plank having drifted
down to Disco, through his « Baffin's Sea. And yet.
notwithstanding this Reviewer's acknowledgement «oa;,
of there being indeed such a Bay as that of Baffin,
he still clings to his favorite current, as part of the
circumvolving one between the Pacific and Atlantic
Oceans, and will not give it «p, although he formerly
declared " it would be difficult to explain how any
current could originate in the bottom of such a bay;
protesting in the Quarterly Review, No. 41. that
« whatever Captain Ross may say or think to the con-
trary, there cannot remain the slightest doubt that the
great body of the water in Baffin's Bay has a motion
to the southward. i • . j
This pertinacious adherence to a long chenshed
favorite notion, is very natural in one who had been
m circumstantial with regard to this current. &s Us
^ M
Data.
*i
i
90
txisUnce (said he) affords, in our opirtiori, tr,f besi hope
for the success of the Expeditions now engaged in ex-
ploring a passage." •'•''■
Unwilling to place much confidence in the state*
ments of the conductor of the Expedition through
Davis's Strait, the Quarterly Reviewer preferred the
opinion of the officers of the Alexander, "that a
southerly current had been experienced, Ion g before
they approached the entrance of Cumberland Strait,"
on their return to the southward. But on this subject,
in its proper order. I shall have occasion to give the
opinion of the officer who then commanded the Alex-
ander, and has had further experience, since that time,
of the set of the currents, or tides, in Davis's Strait, as
far to the northward, at least, as Lancaster Sound.
The result of Ross's Voyage having rendered a pas-
sage through " Baffin's Sea" rather hopeless in a high
tatitudet and the supposed current at all events very
doubtful, though the Reviewer rested his ** best hope^
for the success of the Expedition on its existence ; the
searcli': was now to be made for this " best hope" further
to the southward, in Sir James Lancaster's Sound.
The Hecla and Griper were commissioned for this
service about tb latf end of January 1819, the
former by Lieuteuii £ .vard William Parry, and the
diper by Lieu tF* -.ant Matthew Liddun. They left
Deptford on t! « 4th of May, and sailed from the Nore
on the nth. Lieutenant Parry was instructed, as
Commander of the Expedition, *' to make the best of
his way to Davis's Strait. On his arrival in this Strait,
his further proceedings were to be regulated chiefly
by the position and extent of the ice ; but on finding
it sufficiently open to permit his approach to the
western shores of the Strait, and hia advance to the
, T».-.V:C-4'ii^'j *-XM•i^^isi^?'V»!S!^'.J*VS)»^i^%p■ ..■
r^^J.--
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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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91
northward, as far as the opening in Sir Samea Lan-
caster's Sound, he was to proceed in the first instance,
to that part of the coast, and use his best endeavors
to explore the bottom of that Sound ; or in the event
of its proving a Strait opening to the westward, he was
to use ail possible means, consistently with the safety
of the two ships, to pass through it, and ascertain its
direction and communications; and if it should be
found to connect itself with the northern sea, he was
to make the best of his way to Behring*s Strait/' The
finding a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific was
the main o^ect of this expedition. Another expedi-
tion proceeded also under the command of Lieutenant
Franklin, late Commander of the Trent, from Fort
York, on the shores of Hudson's Bay, to trace the
Copper Mine River to its month, and the coast of
America firom thence to the eastward or northward,
as the case might be, in order to settle the long-sought-for
N.E. point of that Continent. Lieutenant Parry re-
lumed from his Voyage on the 3d of November 1820,
of which he has published a well-written account.
Captain Franklin returned some months before him,
and both were justly promoted for the ability and per-
severance with which they endeavored to zccom\M8\i the
grand objects of the Expeditions they were respectively
intrusted with the command of. But though they both
.failed in attaining the two chief ultimate objects of their
search, owing to the existence of physical impediments
which had not been foreseen, and perhaps no human
power could possibly have snrmoimted ; yet they did
as much as men could do, and brought back with
them a great accession of knowledge respecting the
Arctic regions, and many experimental facts, which will
be found, I fear, when we come to. examine them
SliiJ
'■'l'4
'f, \
02
closely, to bear rather u^^ahist than in favor of the exist-
ence of a practicable N.W. passage for ships, though
both these officers have recorded their opinions of its
practicabihty.
Though Captain Parry had the good fortune to find
a navigable passage, from the entrance of Lancaster
Sound, along the southern shores of a chain of lands,
lying in an east and virest direction, and sufficiently
contiguous to keep that passage free at least of the
heavy polar ices, by impeding their further progress
between or to the southward of those lands ; yet
when he approached the S.W. end of the westernmost
of them, named by him Melville Island, he found it
utterly impossible to succeed in his most strenuous at>
tempts to pass that point. When near this point.
Captain Parry says, he sent Lieutenant Beechey to
measure a mass of ice which had drifted close to the
slip, who found its thickness to be 42 feet ; and he
says, " as it was a piece of a regular floe, this mea-
surement may serve to give some idea of the general
thickness of the ice in this neighbourhood. There were
«orae, however, whiph were of much larger dimensions ;
an immense floe, which formed the principal, or at least
the nearest obstruction to the westward, was covered
with large hummocks, giving to its upper surface the
appearance of hill and dale. The thickness of this floe,
at its nearest edge, was six or seven feet above the sea,
and as about six sevenths are usually immersed, the
whole thickness would appear, in the common way of
reckoning, to have been from 40 to 5& feet, which cor-
responds with that actually measured by Lieutenant
Beechey. But the hummocks were, many of them at
least, from 15 to 25 feet above the level of the sea, so
that the solidity of this enormous floe must have been
m
vor of the exist*
ships, though
opinions of its
fortune to find
:e of Lancaster
chain of lands,
and sufficiently
at least of the
iirther progress
»se lands ; yet
he westernmost
id, he found it
it strenuous at-
lear this point,
mt Beechey to
^ed close to the
2 feet; and he
' floe, this mea-
k of the general
od. There were
ger dimensions ;
cipal, or at least
rd, was covered
»per surface the
Dess of this floe,
it above the sea,
r immersed, the
common way of
feet, which cor-
by Lieutenant
lany of them at
of the sea, so
must have been
infinitely greater than any thing we had seen before.
It was the opinion of Messrs. Allison and Fyfie that it
very much resembled the ice met with at SpUzbergertt
but according to the account of the two latter, was
much heavier than any which they had seen there."
Captain Parry then observes — " It now became evident,
from the combined experience of this and the preced-
ing year, that there was something peculiar about the
S.W. extremity of Melville Island, which made the
icy sea there extremely unfavorable to navigation, and
which seemed likely to bid defiance to all our efibrts
to proceed much further to the westward in this par£il-
lei of latitude. We had arrived off" it on the 17th of
September 1819, after long and heavy gales from the
north-westward, by which alone the ice is ever opened
on this coast" (meaning, I presume, t\ie south or lee-
ward coast imth those winds), " and found it in unusu-
ally heavy and extensive fields, completely closing in
with the land, a mile or two to the eastward of where
we were now lying. We again arrived herein the early
part of August; and though the rest of the navigation
had been remarkably clear for the 50 miles between this
and Winter Harbour, seeming to afford a presumptive
proof that the season was rather a favorable one than
otherwise, the same obstruction presented itself as
before ; nor did there appear, from our late experience,
a reasonable ground to hope that any fortuitous cir-
cumstance, such as an alteration in winds or currents,
was likely to remove the formidable impediments which
we had to encounter. The increased dimensions of the
ice hereabouts would not alone have created an in ur-
mountable difficulty in the navigation, but that it was
yevy naturally accompanied by a degree of closeness
which seldom or never admitted an open space of
,1*"'
>^->M
94
clear water of Rufiicient size for a ship, or even a boat,
to sail on it. We had been lying nearly in our present
situation, with an easterly wind, and blowing fresh, for
thirty-six hours together, and although this was consi*
derably off the land, b ^yond the western point of the
land now in sight, the ice had not during the whole
of that time moved a single yard from the shore ; afford*
ing a proof that there was no space in which the ice
was at liberty to move to the westward" Captain Parry,
at page 297 of his Voyage, aflter again admitting that
*' there is something peculiar about the S.W. end of Mel-
ville IsLandf extremely unfavorable to navigation, yet it
is also certain, that the obstructions we met with from
ice, both as to its thickness and extent, were found ge-f
nerally to increase as we proceeded to the westward
after passing through Barrow's Strait," endeavors to
account for this ' peculiar something,' as well as this
increased obstruction from ice, in a way that I should
rather have expected from the Quarterly Reviewer than
liim. Captain Parry says, " That we should find this
to be the case, might perhaps liave been reasonably
anticipated ; because the proximity to a permanently
open sea" (the Pacific I presume) " appears to be the
jcircumstance, which of all others, tends the most tp
temper the severity of the Polar r^ons, in, any given
parallel of latitude. On this account, I should always
expect to meet with the most serious impediment about
midway between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans ; and
having once passed that barrier, I should as confidently
hope to find the difficulties lessen, in proportion as we
advanced towards the latter sea ; especially as it is well
known that the climate of any given parallel on the west
side of America is, no matter from what cause, very
ma ay degrees more temperate than on the eastern
, or even a boat,
ly in our present
lowing fresh, for
b this was consi*
ern point of the
uring the whole
he shore ; afford*
n which the ice
Captain Parry,
n admitting that
;.W. end of Mel-
navigation, yet it
'e met with from
, were found ge-f
to the westward
it," endeavors to
,' as well as this
ray that I should
'ly Reviewer than
) should find this
been reasonably
> a permanently
appears to be the
!nds the most tp
ns, in, any given
I should always
mpediment about
ific Oceans ; and
jld as confidently
proportion as we
cially as it is well
irallel on the west
what cause, very
on the eastern
8d
coast. " This is a very fair theoretical mode of iccbuht-
ing for the peculiarity of the obstructions near the
S.W. end of Melville Island, though the Quarterly
Reviewer gives a much better reason for it He says,
•• All their efforts proved of no avail to get beyond the
S.W. extremity of Melville Island. There is something
peculiar in the situation of this point that prevents the ice
from leaving the shore, as had in every other part of the
voyage been found to be the case ; it was owing probu"
hly to the discontitmance of land, or to the prevailing
northerly winds having driven dovm the main body of ice,
and wedged it in among the Islands." Nothing can be
more evident than that it was owing to both these
causes; and which Mr. Fisher, the Surgeon of the
Hecla, seems very clearly to have considered so on the
spot. He says, in his Voyage of Discovery to the
Arctic regions, at page 127, on Friday 17th Septem-
ber, 1819, " We cast off again this morning, and stood
to the westward, until we came to the ice, which we
found to be nearly in the same situation where we
were stopped by it yesterday. It was observed to be
much heavier than what we have generally met with
before, bemg somewhat like that which they describe
the Greenland ice to be; so that I think it is most
probable that it is not formed here, hai drifts down from
higher latitudes^ or what may be termed the Polar Sea."
The day before this, the ship had been '* made fast to a
hummock of ice aground in fifteen fathoms water,"
which must therefore have been at least 100 feet thick*
In the following year again, when in latitude 74° 26^,
and longitude 113° 46^, very near the S.W. extremity of
Melville Island, on the 15tb of August, he says, at page
234 : *' With respect to the state of the ice, I could
perceive no material difference in it to-day from what
it has been for this week past : close in with the land,
"m
I" ! I
iP
1
• - ■■ - '- • ■■ r -'
6«
it is broken up into small pieces ; but at the distance of a
mile (or two at the farthest) from the coast, commence
a line of floes, that extend to the westward and south-
ward as far as the eye can penetrate from the most
elcTated situation in this neighbourhood, and leaviog
no clear space except a few pools." "Without di-
gressing much from my narrative, I may remark, in
this place, that the reason generally given why so much
heavy ice should lie off this part of the coast is,
because we are near the west end of this island, so that
the ice which comes from the northward lodges here.
The land (Banks's) that we see to the southward and
westward (at the distance of 17 or 18 leagues) may be
considered also as another locality that tends to keep
this place always hampered with ice." Mr. Fisher's
opinion as to the origin and cause of this heavy ice in
this place, is doubtless most correct ; and from what
he says, it would appear to have been generally en-
tertained on board the ships at the time. It seems in-
deed, from the following passage, to have been even
the opinion of Captain Parry himself, that discontinuity
of land westward of Melville Island was one reason
why this insurmountable icy impediment, of so new a
character, was found about the western extremity of
that island ; and which therefore necessarily involves
admission of the other primary one, viz. the so far un-
obstructed drift of the ice from the northward. At page
"250 he says, « On the i6th of August, in order to have
a clear and distinct view of the state cf the ice, after
24 hours' wind from that (western) quarter, Captain
tSabine, Mr. Edwards, and myself, walked about two
miles to the westward, along the highest part of the
land, next the sea ; from whence it appeared but too
evident that no passage in this direction was yet to be
ia>'i» iifi'Jli"i."-*iw>— . --.»«rM'"i-^^ ■
97
the distance of a
oast, commence
ard and south-
from the most
)od, and leavkig
"Without di-
may remark, in
'en why so much
f the coast is,
island, so that
itrd lodges here,
southward and
leagues) may be
at tends to keep
Mr. Fisher's
his heavy ice in
; and from what
en generally en-
ne. It seems in*
have been even
that discontinuity
1 was one reason
lent, of so new a
tern extremity of
essarily involves
iz. the so far un-
hward. At page
in order to have
of the ice, after
quarter, Captain
liked about two
lest part of the
ippeared but too
on was yet to be
expected. The only clear water in sight, was a chan-
nel of about three quarters of a mile wide in some
places, between the ice and the land, extending as far as
a bold headland bearing N. 52° W. distant two miles
and a quarter, and was called Cape Dundas. The ice
to the W. and W.S.W. was as solid and compact to
all appearance as so much land; to which, indeed,
the surface of many of the lields, from the kind of hill
and dale I have before endeavored to describe, bore
no imperfect resemblance. I have no doubt that, had
it been our object to circunwavigale iMelville Lland, or,
on the other hand, had the coast continued its westerly
direction^ instead of turning to the northward, we should
have contrived to proceed a little occasionally, as op-
portunities offered." As to tne first, it is very ques-
tionable ; but of the latter there can be no doubt at all,
because, if tl e land had continued its westerly direction,
no such impediment as was found, for want of its pro-
tection on the north, could have existed, as far as it
might have extended. Indeed, if a chain of lands such
as the North Georgian Islands extended from Melville
Island all the way to the meridian of Behring's Strait,
on the same parallel, the passage from thence to that
Strait would be attended with no more difficulty than
that was from the entrance of Lancaster Sound to Mel-
ville Island, and for exactly the same reason. But it
is from the improbability (amounting almost to a certain-
ty) that any such lands can be reasonably ^^^^pected to
exist in a direction parallel to the north coa^' of Ame-
rica, so contiguous to each other, in that whole extent, as
to afford to ships the same protection , from the polar
ice, as the Hecia and Griper received from the North
Georgian Islands, that I am compelled to infer the
non-existence of a practicable N.W. passage for ships.
Data. ' . N
'•l-!i
«s
land towards the coast of America, as far even as Icy
Cape, are insulated^ that spaces, quite as extensive as
that to the westward of Melville Island, may intervene,
so as to admit the polar ices between lands so sepa-
rated, and thereby cause the very same kind of obstruc-
tion as was met with at the S.W. extremity of Melville
Island.
Nothing can prove more clearly than the foregoing
extracts, that the ices described therein were what Mr.
Fisher very justly considered them, polar ices, (if there
be no land to the northward) and that such ices have,
as I will endeavor to prove they must necessarily have,
a constant tendency to drift to the southward, under
the impulse given to them by the polar current, and the
prevailing northerly winds, until they are impeded by
the northern shores of intervening lands, upon which
they must consequently lodge ; as was found to be the
case^by Captain Parry, when he made his journey
across Melville Island. He says, at page 191, "As soon
as we had p-ained the summit of this point, which was
about 80 feet above the sea, and was named after Mr.
Nias, we had an additional confirmation that it was the
sea which we had now reached ; the ice being thrown up
under the point, and as far as we could see to the west-
ward, in large, high, irregular masses, exactly similar to
those which had so often afforded us anchorage and
shelter upon the southern shores of the Island." " A
continuous line of very large hummocks of ice extended
from Point Nias about two miles and a half in a N.E.
direction. They were the kind of hummocks which
always indicate the ice having met with resistance by
grounding. The whole of the shore, as far as I could see
■ ■-Ji*f.i-.Jf4.»-R*r*ii
i.iiiiJMWr"'-- ■ ■-■■-■'■''•^■-^ .-:s-*«^
admitting that all
tvestside of Green*
as far even as Icy
lite as extensive as
ind, may intervene,
en lands so sepa-
ne kind of obstruc-
remityof Melville
han the foregoing
rein were what Mr.
polar ices, (if there
hat such ices have,
st necessarily have,
i southward, under
lar current, and the
ley are impeded by
lands, upon which
as found to be the
made his journey
page 191, "As soon
lis point, which was
as named after Mr.
ation that it was the
e ice being thrown up
ould see to the west*
es, exactly similar to
us anchorage and
• the Island." « A
ocks of ice extended
nd a half in a N.£.
if hummocks which
et with resistance by
as far as I could see
r,
..^-, t,^..
90
with a glass, bore evident marks of that tremendous pres-
sure which is produced by Belds of ire when set in mo-
tion." He further observes, " The ice on this coast, as
compared with that in Winter Harbour, being double the
thickness of that of the other, may at first sight appear
to be an indication of a more severe climate on this than
on the southern coast of Melville Island." Though it
may appear very like presumption to question the
opinion and judgment of Captain Parry, in this in-
stance, yet 1 should imagine there can be no doubt of
the fact of the north side of Melville Island being colder
than the other, for the same reason that it would be
warmer near the south side of a high brick-wall, than it
possibly could be on the other; especially if extensive
fields of ice lay to the north of it, and the winds prevailed
nearly two-thirds of the year from that quarter, as it
appears they do at Melville Island. And the proof o(
this is, that the radiation of. heat from the southern
shores of Melville Island dissolved the ice from those
shores, but the northern continued to be encumbered
with it ; and in all human probability will remain so
till doomsday.' However, Captain Parry says, " this
circumstance is, as we know by experience, the formation
of a single winter ; whereas, on an open and exposed
beach, like that of Point Nias, the last year's or sea ice
is at liberty to fix itself in the autumn, forcing up the
masses which we see aground in all such situations,
and increasing in the course of the ensuing winter to the
' Mr. Fisher, at page 209, aays, <' With respect to the nature of the
country on tliis side the island, there is as little to be said, in favor of
its fertility, as any we have seen ; in fact it is as barren as it is possi-
ble for land to be : even the hardy Poppy, that abounds on the south
tide of the island in the worst soil, is not to be teen here."
• • lOO
thickness which we found it to lie. Had we acci-
dentally come to any bay or harbour, secure from the
access of the floes from without, and of the same depth
as Winter Harbour, I doubt not we should have found
the ice in it of nearly the same thickness." I am free to
confess that I very much doubt this inference; for
though a bay on the north side of the island, " secure
from the floes from without," and "of the same depth
as Winter Harbour," would be, so far, similar; yet the
situation of one, being to the north, open to the wmds
which are found so generally to blow from that fngid
quarter, and the other on the south, having intervenmg
land to shelter it more from them, there would doubtless
be a diflerence of general temperature in favor of Wm-
ter Harbour. However, though this may be only mat-
ter of opinion, yet the matters of fact which the forego-
ing extract contains, are much more to my purpose, and
speak a language thatcannot well be misunderstood. Ihe
first of these is, that heavy masses of ice had heen forced
up, on an open and exposed beach— open to the north.
From this first fact 1 infer the existence of a cause (or
causes) let it be what it may, which is in constant or
general operation of power suflScient to impel those
masses /row north to south, and to force them by " tre-
mendous pressure up. on the l>each." ''^hat the same
cause will impel these polar ices dov to the south-
ward, even on to the coast of Araerir wherever they
can float, and do not meet with any obstruction to their
progress; or are not dissolved. ' ,at if any of the
masses furthest to the southward be in fact dissolved,
the space they covered is imperceptibly occupied by
those next to them, which are continually pressed on
towards the south, by others still further to the north-
ward of them. For this reason, the north shore of
I:
t -iv^' M^ -t^pi^l^i'
Had we acci*
r, secure from the
f the same depth
should have found
" I am free to
is inference; for
island, "secure
f the same depth
T, similar ; yet the
open to the winds
»w from that frigid
having intervening
'e would doubtless
•e in favor of Win-
I may be only mat-
f which the forego-
my purpose, and
(lisunderstood. The
ice had heen/orced
open to the north.
;nce of a cause (or
h is in constant or
(nt to impel those
orce them by " tre*
'^'^hat the same
Jvi' to the south-
io wherever they
obstruction to their
,.at if any of the
3 in fact dissolved,
libly occupied by
nually pressed on
rther to the north-
le north shore of
101
Melville Island wrb encumbered with such polar ices,
from the beach, as far out to sea, towards the north, as
the sight extended at its highest elevation. And for
thd same reason, there can be no doubt that the north'
em shores of all lands situated between Greenland
and any part of the north coast of America, must be
encumbered in like manner, unless they be protected
from the polar ices by other lands to the northward
of them. Besides, ices so lodged aground may, instead
of diminishing, perhaps augment annually, as Phoca,
with proper caution and diffidence, only inferred Vi» pos-
sible, because (what was considered) the best authority,
at the time, informed him, " that, owing to the great
depth at which ice floats in water, it must take the
ground at considerable distance from the shore, whern
it becomes a nucleus for floating patches to form round
it ; and the summer sun having little power on such
enormous masses, they accumulate in magnitude, and
spread over a wider surface from year to year ; and if
large fragments were not frequently torn from them,
and borne away by the currents, the whole surface of
the straits and narrow seas would, in process of time, be
covered with ice. Tbemost northerly straits and islands,
which form the passages into Hudson's Bay, are of course
never free from mountains and patches of ice ; and yet
all navigators proceeding on discovery have either enter-
ed those Straits and had to struggle against the ice, and
currents, and tides on the coast af America; or, have
kept so close to the land, on the west coast, of Greenland
as to encounter the same obstacles." All this was very
true, no doubt, as regarded the past, and, taken prophe-
tically, has been proved unfortunately to be but too cor-
rect,bythe result of the several attempts which havesince
heenm9.6eton9.yi^aitetheae* more northerly straits.' Phoca
m
•■ *fef&."-i
102
was told too, " how little the influence of an Arctic suni'
mer, even, is on fields of ice, perpetually surrounded by a
freezing atnosphere created by themselves ;" and this
Captain Parry has furnished us with facts quite suflficient
to confirm ; particularly the one observed by him on the
open and exposed beach of Point Nias. There, he says,
•* the last years or sea ice, is at liberty to fix itself in the
autumn, /orciw^ up the masses seen aground in all such
situations, and increasing in the ensuing winter, to the
thickness which we found it to be." Now here is the
acknowledgement of owe year's ice being increased by the
ne:Ft ensuing. Then why not an annual increase, till
doomsday ?— 7 do not presume to say that such can be
the result. But, on such authority, who will be bold
enough to question the legitimacy of the inference, as far at
least as it is applicable to ice aground mn northern shores
of Arctic lands ? It is true, that Phoca, before his mind
was enlightened by the knowledge of recent facts, took
it into his head that there must be some probable cause,
counteractive of the Quarterly Reviewer's ;>er/>c/M«//m^*
and explained his ideas on that subject in one of his
letters. He came to the conclusion that "it was more
than probable, that the process of freezing and melting
might be going on in the Arctic regions, on the same
body of floating ice (if of magnitude to be sufficiently
immersed) at the same time, and perhaps in winter as
well as in summer :" for, from a few recorded facts, he
deduced the probability of the progressive general decrease
of the temperature of the sea from the surface downwards
in the torrid and temperate zones ; and its progressive
increase downwards in the frigid rones; both however
being dependent on the atmospheric temperature at the
time. He was further confirmed in this opinion by the
results of two simple experiments, made in a deep
103
of an Arctic sum.
y surrounded by a
ielves ;" and this
icts quite sufficient
ved by him on the
s. There, he says,
to fix itself in the
p-ound in all such
ling winter, to the
Now here is the
ng increased by the
nual increase, till
y that such can be
who will be bold
; inference, as far at
•n northern shores
:a, before his mind
' recent facts, took
)me probable cause,
er'a perpetual frost ;
bject in one of his
that " it was more
reezing and melting
igions, on the same
e to be sufficiently
'haps in winter as
recorded facts, he
ive general decrease
surface downwards
ind its progressive
les ; both however
temperature at the
this opinion by the
made in a deep
wooden vessel with a tin bottom. This being filled
with common pump water, a red hot plate of iron was
held close to its surface, to try the first case ; and a
large piece of ice was used for trial of the i?econd case.
He reserved to himself exceptions to these two general
results, in the event of experiments being made on the
sea's temperature, in soundings, and confined waters, near
land : because each general result was found to be ma-
terially afiected by putting ice to the outside of the
bottom of the vessel, whilst heat was applied to the sur-
face, in the first case ; and by putting heat at the bottom,
whilst ice was applied to the surface, in the other case : and
therefore thought it probable that the high temperature
of the lands in the torrid, and perhaps the temperate
zones, might in some degree be communicated to the
bottom, in soundings, more especially in shoal and
Confined waters, and thereby cause exceptions to the
general rule, similar to thosie in the first case ; and in
theArctic (and Antarctic) regions, under like circum-
stances of locality, those similar to the second case.
At page 448, in No. 36, Quarterly Review for June
1818, an extract from Davis's " World's Hydrographi-
cal Description" is given, in confirmation perhaps of an
opinion expressed by the Reviewer, five or six months
before, as to " the little effect of even an Arctic summer,
on fields of ice perpetually surrounded by a freezing
atmosphere created by themselves ;" to establish also
his doctrine of " i\\e perpetuity of the southern current"
through " Baffin's Sea ;" and to^prove that " those who
have formed their notions of this current from the re-
veries of Saint Pierre, on the melting of the polar ice,
have adopted very erroneous ideas on the subject:"
for he attempts to show, on the authority of Mr.
Scoresby's Meteorological Journal for 1812, to which
m 1
■j^i-.^-^Efrrj-
•!.lt!
.104
he refers M alte-Brun, (who had dared '♦ to convert an
ice mountain into a marine current, by the effect of tlie
solar rays,) that as much ice as the solar rays decom-
posed on onfe side of such a mountain, would be re-com"
posed, probably, on the other." This is at least one
step towards self-refutation, as it admits the probably
equal and simultaneous operation of the two opposite
powers of heat and cold above water, on floating ice,
which would consequently keep the quantity thert
equal at all times.
But the Reviewer noxi} wishes, it seems, to go further;
and having since had a glimpse of some " new light,"
from ** Mr. Scoresby's communication to Sir Joseph
Banks," and the " observations made in the Greenland
seas on the temperature of the water at the surface,
when that of the atmosphere, he takes it for granted,
(but why, he does not say) was at or below the freezing
point," which are inserted at page 453 and 4, he thinks
it as well to look a little deeper. And also now, for
the first time, perhaps, looking to the fair inference
that has been already, or might be, drawii from his doc-
trine of progressive everlasting congelation in the Arctic
regions, he calls old Davis from the « vasty deep" to
help him out with some fact to show that there »
some other counteracting power in operation, under
water also, to prevent that accumulation of ice, which
" otherwise, in process of time, would freeze up the
globe." Fortunately, and most opportunely, he was
furnished with this hy old, Davis, who tells him that
Ac had seen " an Ylande of^se tume up and downe be-
cause it hatli melted so faste under water." On this
grand and seemingly unexpected discovery, the saga-
cious critic, in the name of his brethren, exclaims in
rapture, " We have no doubt that Davis is right, and
Id '• to convert an
\y the effect of the
lolar rays decom-
J would be rc-com«
\\a is at least one
Imits the probably
the two opposite
r, on floating ice,
le quantity tfiere
ima, to go further ;
ome " new light,"
ion to Sir Joseph
in the Greenland
er at the surface,
:es it for granted,
below the freezing
3 and 4, he thinks
And also nowt for
the fair inference
rawri from his doc-
'ation in the Arctic
i " vasty deep" to
low that there a
operation, under
lion of ice, which
iild freeze up the
)ortnnely, he was
rho tells him that
up and downe he-
water." On this
covery, the saga-
thren, exclaims in
>avi8 is right, and
IP^T""*^
105 » '
that the action of the salt sea on ice, and not its decom*
position by the solar rays, prevents an accumulation
which would otherwise, in process of time, freeze up
the globe ! ! " It would seein, however, entirely to have
escaped the notice of this sage critic that Davis did
not account for this melting of " the yse so faste under
water," because the sea waa aalt, but owing *' to his
heate of power to dissolve yse." The Reviewer might as
well have told us what he meant by " the action of the
talt sea on ice." It may have been the increased tern*
perature of the sea, shown by the experiments of Dr.
Irving and Mr. Scoresby; but if so, why apply the'
needless term salt to the sea? He was not quite sure,
then, perhaps, of the fact of an increasing temperature of
the sea downwards ; as he deems " the few experiment^
in Phipps's Voyage wholly unsatisfactory," yet they
must have made some impression on his belief. How>
ever, he very prudently declines hazarding '* an opinion
as to the cause of this warm stream," but leaves it to his
readers **to ascribe'it'' to the ** submarine geysers " of
Pennant, or to " the heated current from the Pacific,
which probably loses nothing of its temperature in its
passage among the active Volcanoes of the Aleutian
Islands," and thence through Behring's Strait, and the
Frozen Oceattt into the bai^ainl! Bless us! what an
advantage it is to be a man of learning and a great
traveller! what daring flights it enables the mind to
take on the wings of a lively imagirfation ! The Edin-
burgh Reviewer, in No. 69, observes on this subject,
" that, contrary to what takes place under milder skies,
the water dr.^ wn up from a considerable depth is warmer
within the Arctic circle than what lies on the surface.
Thejloati^tg ice accordingly begins to melt generally on
the underside, from the slow communication of the heat
Data. '
I
-!) ■■; i^w i H ^WT'i f
loe
sent upwards." The Quarterly Reviewer says, "but
we are rather inclined to consider it as the lighter water
rising from an extreme depth to .the surface." Mr.
Scoresby, in his account of the Arctic regions, published
in 1820, says, at page 184, "As far as experiments
have hitherto been made, the temperature of the sea
has generally been found to diminish on descending.
But in the Greenland sea, near Spitzbergen, the contrary
is the fact. The results of the experiments he made
for determining this interesting point were highly satis-
factory ; the water being invariably warmer than that at
the surface." A series of these experiments are ex-
hibited in a table at p. 187. " They were all made in
deep water, clear of land, and out of soundings^ the tem-
perature of the air at the times being generally below,
and seldom above 32 degrees of Fahrenheit." So much
for the fact, which (being an unlearned man) is all /
dare meddle with ; but as others may wish to see whe-
ther Mr. Scoresby's attempts to account for the cause
are more clear and satisfactory than those of the two
rival Reviewers, I shall insert what he says at page
209, &c. "From the fact of the sea near Spitzbergen
being usually six or seven degrees warmer, at the depth
of 100 to 200 fathoms, than it is at the surface, it seems
not improbable that the water below is a still farther ex-
tension of the Gulf stream, which, on meeting with
water near the ice, lighter than itself, sinks below the
surface, and becomes a counter under current." And
again, " From the circumstance of an under stratum of
water, in the Spitzbergen sea, being generally warmer,
by some degrees, than that at the surface, though of
similar specific gravity, it would appear that the warmer
water is, in this case, the most dernCt or why does it not
rise and change places with the colder water at the
le
lewer says, "but
the lighter water
surface." Mr.
egions, published
as experiments
ature of the sea
\ on descending,
■gen, the contrary
Timcnts he made
were highly 8atis<
%rmer than tliat at
)eriments are ex-
were all made in
oundingSy the tem-
f generally below,
■enheit." So much
ned man) is all /
r wish to see whe-
>unt for the cause
those of the two
; he says at page
I near Spitzbergen
rmer^ at the depth
e surface, it seems
a still farther ex-
on meeting with
f, sinks below the
>r current." And
under stratum of
generally warmer,
lurface, though of
ir that the warmer
T why does it not
der water at the
—^-
107 * •
I
surface?" I am sure 7 cannot say why ; and, my good
reader, if you areiiot able to do so, perhaps one or other
of the critics will assist you ; though I apprehend the
Quarterly Reviewer will be somewhat puzzled by the
question. For his warm water, brought all the way
from the Pacific Ocean, happens to be lighter than that
at the surface in the Arctic regions, and at an extreme
depth too (as he of course can give a good reason for);
but Mr. Scoresby's warm stream from the West Indies
is heavier than that at the surface (or " of similar "spe-,
cific gravity," for it is hard to say which he means),
and therefore sinks underneath it, instead of rising like
the Quarterly Reviewer s circumvolving current, " from
an extreme depth to the surface." In the Edinburgh
PhilosophicalJournal, No. 4, for April 18*20, is inserted
an abstract of Mr. Scoresby's results ; also some ob-
tained by Lieutenant Beechey, on board the Trent, in
the Spitzbergen seas ; and others by Mr. Fisher on
board the Dorothea.
From these and other experiments made by Dr.
Marcet, the Editor of that Journal observes, " In
Ba$n's Bay, the Mediterranean sea, and the tropical
seas, the temperature of the sea diminishes with the depth,
according to the observations of Phipps, Ross, Parry,
Sabine, Saassure, Ellis, and Peron ; but it is a remark-
able fact, that in the Arctic or Greenland seas, the
temperature of the sea increases with the depth. This
singular result ^va8 first obtained by Mr. Scoresby, in
a series of well-conducted experiments, and has been
confirmed by the later observations of Lieutenants
Franklin, Beechey, and Mr. Fisher." I however appre-
hend, that the correctness of the Editor's observations
will sometimes, perhaps, be impeached, by results a
little- at variance with both these general rules, owing
..y w »» u i| c
pefatur^ of the Greenland sea, I have invariably found
it to be warmer below than at the surface. This aeception
therefore is remarkable :" and Mr. Scoresby might have
added singular too ; for it is perhaps the only experi-
ment he ever made in soundings, which is quite suffi-
cient to account for the exception. Mr. Scoresby adds :
"« On ray first trial, made in 1810, in latitude 76° Itf,
and longitude 9° east, the temperature at the depth of
1380 feet was found to be 33° 3' (by the water brought
up), whilst at the surface it was 28° 8'. In one instance
(the latitude being 70° and long. 5° 40' E.) there was
an increase of 7° of temperature on descending 600
feet; and in another series of experiments, near the
same place, an increase of 8° was found at the depth of
4380 feet What Kend«;rs this increase of temperature
to land, d^th of
atmosphere, coin-
e time of making
ture. Some few
o the first general
by Captain Hall
ist of China, and
letter ; and other
be tbund among
aigers in the Arctic
by Mr. Scoresby,
Northern Whale
He says, at page
r r and longitude
r in 118 fcthoms;
of the sea at the
>m8 of the bottom,
the air at the same
ents upon the tera>
^e invariably found
ace. This exception
coresby might have
s the only experi-
lich is quite suffi-
f r. Scoresby adds :
in latitude 76° le',
re at the depth of
the water brought
I'. In one instance
4(/ £.) there was
Di descending 600
eriments, near the
ind at the depth of
ise of temperature
109
on descending in the Spitsbergen sea the more extraor.
dinary, is the fact, that in almost all other regions of the
globe, as far as observations have been made, a contrary
law prevails, the sea being colder below than at the
surface." But few or no experiments have been made
yeiin the Antarctic sea ; and whenever they shall be, I
have very little doubt but it will be found to be the same
as it is in the Spitzbergen sea, progressively warmer in
proportion to the depth, except in straits, deep bays, or
inlets, and perhaps in soundings near land ; and that
the cause, whatever it may be (as Mr. Scoresby says),
which occasions the peculiar warmth in the Spitzbergeu
sea, will produce the same effect in the Antarctic sea,
though there we cannot have recourse, either to the
circumvolvingcurrent, from the Pacific, of the Quarterly
Reviewer, or the Gulf stream of Mr. Scoresby, to assist
us to account for it. It was on the firm expectation
that this warm temperature pf the Arctic seas would
be found (though it appears Mr. Scoresby had dis-
covered it to possess this, some time before), that Phoca
presumed it might be continually dissolving ice under
water ; yet still, on the whole, there might, by the process
of freezing above, be an increase of ice in the frozen sea,
but that the surplus was brought out by the Polar current
round the N.£. part of Greenland; and that consequent-
ly, " the general quantity of water in that sea remained
nearbf the same at all times ; that is, taking the ice and
water together, as an aggregate quantity." Though
Capt. Parry has, as we have seen, acknowledged an
increase of ice on the northam shores of Melville Island,
he seems to be of opinion that the quantity oi floating
ice is generally the same nearly, from what he observed
in Winter Harbour.
When there, on the 6th of July 1820, he says, at
l * ^ j> !< Vi t ilti i fwatir i
I ,*M ^|^^ n |l| _ l ^;«| l
■IT jMim . 1 J M ^ > . i m i i ig II
i|li >ni, iiiwii»'i
tio •
page 217. *' In all cases we found the ice to be first
thawed and broken up in the sboalest water, in con-
sequence, I suppose, of the greater facility with which
the ground, at a small depth below the surface of the
sea, absorbed and radiated the sun's rays ; and as it is
in such situations that water generally freezes first, this
circumstance seems a remarkable instance of the pro-
vision of nature for maintaining such a balance in the
quantity of ice annual/if formed and dissolved^ as shall
prevent any undue or extraordinary accumulation of it
in any part of the Polar regions of the earth. Among
the means also which nature employs in these regions
to dissolve, during the short summer, the ice which has
been formed upon the sea by the cold of winter, there
appears to be none more efficacious than the numerous
streams of water produced by the melting of the snow
upon the land, which, for a period of at least six or seven
weeks, even in the climate of Melville Island, are con-
tinually discharging themselves into the ocean. On
this account it would appear probable that the high
land is more favorable to the dissolution and disper-
sion of ice near its shores, than that which is lower,
because it supplies a never-ceasing flow during the
whole of the thawing season." Considering the quan-
tity of land, already known to exist between the west
side of Greenland and the coast of America, and gene-
rally described high, this abundant dissolution there-
from must, during that period, increase the quantity of
fluid, and consequently occasion some current towards
the south. I merely mention this now, as I shall per-
haps in the course of this inquiry be able to bring
forward the testimony of Captain Parry to prove the
fact ; but not that the " short summer" dissolves all
" the ice formed on the sea in winter."
T
r
3if
the ice to be first
est water, in con<
icility with which
the surface of the
rays ; and as it is
r freezes first, this
stance of the pro-
I a balance in the
dissolved^ as shall
accumulation of it
e earth. Among
^s in these regions
the ice which has
d of winter, there
han the numerous
elting of the snow
it least six or seven
e Island, are con-
» the ocean. On
ible that the high
ution and disper-
it which is tower,
; flow during the
sidering the quan-
between the west
merica, and gene-
dissolution there-
ise the quantity of
ne current towards
ow, as I shall per-
be able to bring
'arry to prove the
mer" dissolves all
We have already seen that the grounds originally
taken by the Quarterly Reviewer in favor of the exist-
ence and practicability of a N.W. passage (of both
which he did not then, still less does he now. entertain
any doubt) are the following, which I shall agam call
to the readers attention. • •
Ist. The existence of a perpetual current setting down
from the northward, from the Polar Basin, through
Baffin's Sea, and Davis's Strait, into the Atlantic, with
a velocity of four, and sometimes of five miles an hour.
iJd. The non-existence of Baffin's Bay, as drawn in
the charts.
3d. A circumvolving current, setting as perpetually
" from the Pacific through Behring's Strait" into the
Polar Basin, and out of it into the Atlantic; and
« whose existence in his opinion affords the Iiest hope
for the success of the expeditions engaged in exploring
a passage into the Pacific''-by way of the Pole, as
well as along the north coast of America.
4th. A great Polar sea, free from ice, near the Pole, if
free from land. i * j • u
Mr. Barrow, one of the secretaries at the Admiralty,
appears, from what he says in his account of the voyages
to the Polar regions, published in 1818, to have taken
up the question precisely on the same grounds as the
Reviewer. ,
Mr. Scoresby, in his account of the Arctic regions,
published in 1820, enumerates some of these, and also
considers them as probable grounds for supposing that
such a passage may exist. Ellis's reasons, he sayi^, ap-
pear to him to he " the most satisfactory." One of
these, rather a curious one to be so " satisfactory," is
« the direct testimony of the Indians, which tends to
prove that they have seen the sea beyond the mountains.
1
and observed veueU navigating thereon I /*' Where, in the
name of Hearen, cpald these vesaela have come from 7
or how could any have been therCt unleis they were the
canoes of Esquimaux ? which it may be presumed Ellis
did not understand these Indians to mean by what he
termed vessels.
Mr. Scoresby, on the whole, however, is rather ficep-
tical on the practicability of such passage, " and even if
it were discovered, he conceives it would be at intervals
only of years that it would in all probability be open
at all." Like a man of much experience and judgment,
.lie says, ** the most certain (and I dare say he might
have added the only) method of ascertaining the exist-
ence of a communication between the Atlantic and
the Pacific, along the northern shore of America, would
doubtless be by journeys on land." This hint has
been taken, and as far as it goes, successfully acted on.
If followed up as it is now reported it will be^ this
** grand question," I have not the slightest doubt, vnll
be solved: but by any ship or ships, without the aid of
expeditions by land— it will remain as it now is, a
matter of doubt.
Let us now examine.thefour grounds of argument in
favor of the practicability of a N.W. passage for ships.
Fhoca attempted, in the first instance, before the ex-
peditions sailed, to disprove them all, (and I think with
some success) except the 4th, which he thought proba-
ble, but desired further proof, which is still wanting.
Mr. Scoresby disputed none but the 4th, and his
reasons for not believing that there is an open sea clear
of ice about the Pole, I shall examine in the proper
place. But let us first try the validity of all these four
grounds or arguments, by the test of the experience of
|/" Where, in the
lave come firom T
^88 they were the
presumed Ellis
lean by what he
is rather seep.
" and even if
be at intervals
•bability be open
:e and judgment,
are say he might
aining the exist-
be Atlantic and
America, would
This hint has
BSsfuUy acted on.
d it will be^ this
ightest doubt, wilt
without the aid of
as it now is, a
ds of ailment in
massage for ships,
ce, before the ex-
[and I think with
le thought proba-
is still wanting,
he 4th, and his
an open sea clear '
line in the proper
of all these four
he experience of
113
those navigators, who have recently visited the north
Polar regions.
1st. "The existence of a perpetual current, setting
down from the northward, from the Polar Basin, through
Baffin's 8ea, and Davis's Strait, into the Atlantic, with
a velocity of four, and sometimes five miles an hour."
Although the already noticed candid declaration of
the Reviewer, that ' he now knows there is such a bay av
that of Baffin,' &c. and he said, before he believed it, that
i/there were such a bay, ' it would be difficult to explain
how anif current could originate at the bottom of il,'
would seem to render it superfluous to prove that there
is no suck current, yet though I shall produce the testi-
mony to that effect, of one whom he has had no reason
to doubt, I must state the currents as I find them
mentioned in Captain Ross's Voyage, from the day he
passed the parallel of Cape Farewell, during his passage
up' to the head of Baffin's Bay, and down it again till
he got off the entrance of Cumberland Strait.
On 23d of May, in lat. 57° 2' and longitude
43" 2', Captain Ross says : ' This evening I remarked the
appearance of a current, and the next day ascertained
by hoisting out our boat, that it set W.N.W. (true) at
the rate of a quarter of a mile an hour.' On the 24th
' the N. W. current was still manifest.' On the 26th
of May, in latitude 58° 36', and long. 51° W. 'The
latitude agreed, but we had been set by a current a few
miles to the westwfird' On the 27th, ' a copper cylinder
with a detail of dur situation was thrown overboard
near a very large icebei^, in lat. 61° N. and long. 53"
25', which we passed at 9 p,.m. It apparently dxifted
to the westward, though we could perceive no current.'
June 1st, in lat. 63° 41', long. 55° 42', * no effect of a
current was apparent, and having gained .three miles
Data. P
114
of latitude, it seemed evident there could be no current :
tvhich appeared surprising, as the wind had blown for
three successive days directly down the strait,' that is,
from the northward. On the 5th of June, lat. 65° 46',
and long. 55° W. 'a boat was anchored to try for a
current, but none was perceptible.' July 3d, in lat.
71° 33' and long. 56° 2', ' by mid-day we had made a
degree of latitude through a channel apparently void of
any current,* July 10th, ' we continued in the midst of
the ice, which was carrying us fast to the northward'
August 13th, lat. 75° 54', long. 65° 53', • it is worthy of
remark, that here, as on the whole of this coast north-
ward of 70°, we found the deepest water near the land,
and that no current was found.'
August 23d, ' the sun's meridional altitude was ob-
served on the iceberg, and the latitude found to be 76°
37', the iceberg having drifted three miles to the north-
ward: September 1st, lat. 73° 37', long. 77° 25', • to
observe the current, the line was dropped over again,
and the transit bearings of two objects on the land set ;
these however did not vary in the least, nor did we find
any current by the line.' * My orders to stand well to
the north' had been already fully obeyed, and no current
had been found ; and if * a current of some force' did
exist, as from • the best authorities' we had reason to
believe was the fact, it could be no where but to the
southward of this latitude:
On the 6th of September, in lat. 72° 23', and long.
73° 7', *wo current was found.' September 30, lat. 64°
10', and longitude 63° 5', ' we found by our reckoning
that the cuiTcnt had set us twenty-five miles totheN.E.
during the last 24 hours.' Thus, according to Captain
Ross, wo CMrre«//rom y our reckoning
milea to t he N.E.
rding to Captain
iver experienced;
6 detected, it set
E.
Let us now see what Captain Parry discovered in
his subsequent voys^v, as far to the northward as the
entrance of Lancaster Sound.
On the 26th of June 1819, ' in lat. 63° 59' and
longitude 01° 48', in 125 fathomi, the deep sea line in>
dicated a drift to the S. by W.' July 1 Uh, * we sounded
at noon in 202 fali.oms, lat. (>9'' 24' and longitiv«e 58°
16'; not allowing current, which for tlie three preceding
days had appeared to set the ships to the S.it.E. at from
8 to 13 miles per day.' July 20th, lat. 72° 57', long. 58°
41', in 120 fathoms, the ships drift to S.S, W: July 24th,
lat. 72° 59' and longitude 60° 8', ' ships drift to S. T
E. 41 miles in 24 hours^ depth of water 260 fathoms.'
On the 30th July, noon, latitude 74° l', ' being the
first meridional altitude taken for four days, and differ-
ing only two miles from the dead reckoning ;* which is
remarkable, considering the sluggishness of the com>
passes ; and would seem to afford a presumptive proof
that ' no southerly current exists in this part of Baffin's
Bay.' Further to the southward, however, in the narrow-
est part of Davis's Strait, he appears from the foregoing
extracts to have met with a very small set of current
from the northward. We will now refer to his observa-
tions when returning firom Lancaster Sound, homeward
bound.
On the 3d of September, in latitude 71° 24', ' being
only 2 miles and j to the southward of the dead reckon-
ing in three dayst we considered that there could be no
current of any importance setting in that direction on this
part of the coast.' September 4th, ' the latitude observed
was 71° 2' 42", agreeing to within a mile of the account ;
so that no current could well have existed since the pre-
ceding day's observation.' September ^th, in latitude 6P°
24', long. 67° 5',in 35 fathoms, 5 or 6 miles from the land.
rTSi-.wwwais*^«i*in>,--
L
■i- .
i
lie
Captain Parry says, * found the current running sdme-
wbat less than a mile an hour, in a S.iE. direction. At
4 30' P.M. it was again tried, and found to set to the
S.E. at the rate of J of a mile per hour ; and at 7 o'clock,
when we hove to near Cape Katerfor the Griper to join
us, we found it to be slack water ;' which proves this to
have been a tide stream^ and not a current. On the 1 1th
of September, at noon, in lat. 69° 19', and long. 66" 6',
in 275 fathoms : * It must here be remarked, that for
each of the last three days, and /or these only, we had
found the ship between 7 and 8 miles to the southward
of the reckoning.' September 25th, at aoon, in latitude
OS" 13', ' being 2 miles and | to the southward of the dead
reckoning, which difference had occurred on each of the
12 preceding days.' From all these facts it is quite
clear that no such current as the Quarterly Reviewer
imagined, was ibund— indeed scarcely any worth men-
tion ; and certainly, what little was detected either in
Baffin's Bay, or Davis's Strait, could hardly have origi-
nated in his circumvolving current from the Pacific
through Behring's Strait and the Polar Sea : nay, there
was no such thing as a permanent current/row the west-
ward found in any part, even of Lancaster Sound, and
Barrow's Strait, if the authority of Captain Parry is suf-
ficient to show it. He sums up the matter in these
words: "Of the current which we experienced in
Davis's Strait, and Baffin's Bay. It would appear that
daring the Summer and Autumn, there is in this part a
considerable set to the southward. In judging of the
causes which produce this general tendency of the aeiper-
ficial current, it will be proper to bear in mind two fects,
which we have had occasion to remark in the course of
this and the preceding voyage; first, that in a sea
much encumbered with ice, a current is almost invaria-
;^';»itefe°^»ig^-!i=i'^^fe^j^j^»t^psa^^^ *i »M!W^e»^» '^
it running^ 8«me-
E. direction. At
md to set to the
and at 7 o'clock,
the Griper to join
ich proves this to
ent. On the 1 1th
and long. 66" 5',
marked, that for
kese orUtf, yre had
to the southward
aoon, in latitude
iward of the dead
ed on each of the
i facts it is quite
larterly Reviewer
f any worth men-
detected either in
hardly have origi-
from the Pacific
ir Sea : nay, there
rrent from the west-
laster Sound, and
[)tain Parry is suf-
e matter ia these
} experienced in
ivould appear that
3 is in this part a
fn judging of the
lencyofthe«2«j»er-
in mind two facts,
k in the course of
9t, that in a sea
is almost invaria-
'aet*B^3W^>&i:-_5rr .^-^ v/ ■• —
117
bly produced, immediately on the springing up of every
breeze of wind ; and, secondly, that in several instances
where the ships have been beset in the ice, the directioti
of the daily drift has been the point of the compass di>
rectly opposite to that of the wind,'whether the latter was
from the northward or the southward.
** It appears to me, upon the whole, that the southerly
current which we have been enabled to detect, is not
more than may be caused by the balance of the northerly
winds, added to the annual dissolution of lai^e quantities
of snow, which finds the readiest outlet into the Atlan-
tic. In the Polar sea, to the westward of Barrow's
Strait, no current has been found to exist beyond that
which is evidently occasioned by different winds. In every
part which we had an opportunity of visiting, the tides,
though small, appear to be as regular as in any part of
the world." Thus the Reviewer's first ground has be^i
annihilated by proof positive. The second he has
himself confessed to be so, by the same proof. With
respect to the third, *' a circumvolving current setting as
perpetually from the Pacific through Behring's Strait
into the Polar basin, and out of it into the Atlantic," £cc.
the foregoing facts show that -none of it was found
in the whole space between the west coast of .Greenland
and the meridian of 113" 46' 43^' 5 in ht. 74" 46' 25",
which was the farthest point Captain Parry reached ;
when the Reviewer says, " After struggling till the 16th,
Captain Parry determined to .eturn to the eastward
along the edge of the ice, with, the intention of availing
himself of any opening that might occur, to get to the
southward, and, if possible, upon the coast of America."
Not perhaps, for the purpose o( ** seeking,*' like Captain
Ross, as the Reviewer tells him, " for his circumvolving
current ;" but for, what Captain Parry ^considered a
■11
118
much better reason, which I shall have occasion to
mention by-and-by, as he assigned it at the time, and
on a subsequent occasion ; especially as the Reviewer
has repeated it in terms of approval §nd acquiescence.
He may also have an eye to the discovery of this favo-
rite current of his ; for as it had not been found, either
by Ross or Parry, any where within the limits I have
before mentioned, its progress from Behring's Strait (if
it exist beyond it) through channels of communication,
between the " Polar basin" and the Atlantic must, of
course, be sought for hereafter, on parallels between Mel-
ville Island and the coast of America : for we cannot
be surprised at the Reviewer's anxiety to get hold of a
current, "whose" very " existence in his opinion affords
the best hope for the success of the expeditions engaged
in exploring a passage into the Pacific." That there
certainly is a temporary and " trifling" superficial cur-
rent in Behring's Strait to the northward, Phoca has
admitted ; and so do I» though totally inadequate to
supply that which is knowii to set to the southward,
continually, out of the Polar sea, through the Spitzber-
gen sea, into the Atlantic ; even if it were possible to
believe that the waters of the Pacific composed any
part of it. Mr. Scoresby appears (as I before observed)
to believe in the existence of the Reviewer's circumvolv-
ing current, or at least that of " a sea communication"
between the Pacific and " the Atlantic." As to the
latter, for water and fish, I admit it mat/ be very possi-
ble, somewhere in the space between Melville Island
and the north coast of America, which yet remains to be
explored. Mr. Scoresby is of the same opinion as the
Reviewer, chiefly for the same reasons; one of which
is, because "it is presumed that worm-eaten drift-
wood, found in the Arctic countries, is derived from
.,>n- . tssns,' ^'-ffjstai.i^^e- '•'
llOv
ve occasion to
t the time, and
as the Reviewer
id acquiescence,
ery of this favo-
!en found, either
the limits I have
ihring's Strait (if
communication,
Atlantic must, of
Uels between Mel-
: for we cannot
to get hold of a
is opinion affords
editions engaged
fie." That there
' superficial cur-
vard, Phocahas
ly inadequate to
[) the southward,
ugh the Spitzber-
; were possible to
c composed any
before observed)
vet's circumvolv-
communication"
tic." As to the
ay be very possi-
Melville Island
yet remains to be
ae opinion as the
is; one of which
rorm-eaten drift-
is derived from
I a trans-polar region," as he supposes one log was which
I " he ol^erved in 1817, on the Island of Jan Mayen.'-
I Now, at page 209 of his '* Account of the Arctic Ro-
I gions," Mr. Scoresby has informed us, that " From
I the coast of Britain, the northern branch of the Gulf-
stream probably extends superficially along the shore
of Norway. About the North Cape, its direction ap*
pears to be changed by the influence of a westerly
current from Nova Zembia, so that it afterwards sets
to the N. W. as high as the borders of the ice, and thus
operating against the polar current setting to the south'
ward." I should like to know Mr. Scoresby's authority
for this movement of the superficial waters towards the
W* and N.W. from Nova Zembia. However, as he of
course believes, or knows it to be so, I would ask him
if, by the aid of such a medium, the worm-eaten drift-
wood he saw on Jan Mayen's Island might not have
been brought from the West Indies, by this much
shorter^ and more probable route than the other? - The
polar current, Mr. Scoiesby (page 4,) informs us, ■" flows,
he is well assured, during nine months of the year, if
not all the year round, from the N.E., towards the S. W.
The velocity of this current may be from 4 to 20 miles
a day, varying in different situations, but is most con-
siderable near the coast of Old Greenland." Here, then,
is the perfectly well authenticated fact of a perpetual
current out of the Polar sea. It is acknowledged by
the Reviewer in various parts of his writings, and par-
ticularly pointed out by Mr. Barrow, at page 377 of his
Voyages to the " Polar Regions." — Now, this perpetual
current to the southward, out of the Polar Sea, must
\i2i\e a cause. TAa/ cause, whether it be what Phoca
attempted to prove it to be, or any other^ would, doubt-
less, produce a similar current from the Polar sea to-
|w
f
i
1«Q
wards the Atlantic, through at^ channels of communi>
cation v/bich, may em/ from the west side ef Greenland
to tlie coast of America, in quantity and velocity propor-
tionate to the dimensions of such channels.—- Phoca,
disbelieving the existence of any such current in the
space called " Baffin's Sea," by the Reviewer, rationally
concluded that therefore there must be either laud or
shoals north of that space.
The subsequent proof of Baffin's veracity, and con-
sequently there being in fact no such current, either
there, or in the space westward, as far as Melville
Island, proves, that there can be no channel* of communi-
cation in that space betw*^n the Polar Sea and the
Atlantic, even for water in any considerable quantity ;
much less (or sJiips* The Reviewer, however, is of a very
different opinion. He thinks there may be a passage to
the northward into the Polar sea through Wellington
Channel ; because, when the ships passed its southern
entra«ce, it was " free from every .particle of ice, as far
as the eye could reach, on a remarkably clear day ;"
and therefore, if the ships had proceeded up that chan-
nel, wherever it led to, the sea beyond would also have
been as clear Had open. I admit it to be very possible,
that the northern opening of such channel may be
found clear of ice, as well as the southern ;prot;i<^ other
lands lie to the northward of it. For one of my aiigur
ments is, that the northern shores of all Arctic lands, w
"well as the northern entrances of all channels formed
lietween them, if no land exist north of thentt are, and
of necessity must bct continually more or less encum-
bered with heavy polar ices; extending from those
lands towards the north polar axis of the globe. And
that too, whether around tt as a centre, there may be
some expanse of open sea, as the Reviewer, and mapy
• mjnjtt I , %^
■'^■■i»iif ! i^^£J^»g!^C---^\»4!j:^fe■fe4^.■ii ' A ' l^ ^ —
nels of commuiii*
side ef Greenland
d velocity propor-
lannels.— Phoca,
ch current in the
eviewer, rationally
be either laud or
ireracity, and con-
ch current, either
IS far as Melville
annels of communi-
?olar Sea and the
iderable quantity;
[>wever,isofa very
Day be a passage to
through Wellington
)a88ed its southern
irticle of ice* as far
kably clear day ;"
ieded up that chan-
nd would also have
to be very possibki
li channel may be
bern ; provided other
or one of my ai^i^
all Arctic land^^w
11 channels formed
h of thetttt arct and
)re- or less encum-
ending from those
of the globe. And
•ntre, there may be
^viewer, and msyiy
■ ■.jft«N i .J > *)» ar .i i »»- ' S ti ■ CT^'S'A'
otbelw suppose, loiMoirt icff, or whether tliere b^, as Mn
Seoneaby concludes, (page 311,) ''A continent of ice«>
mountains, existing in regions near the Pole, yet unex-
plored, the nucleus of which may be as ancient as the
earth itself, and its increase derived from the sea and
atmosphere combined** — for it is quite immaterial to my
argument which theory may be correct. The only facts
I require are, first, the existence of heavy polar ices ;
and, secondly, the certain general nunement of these
icea, from the north towards the south, in all the regions
surrounding the Pole, as long as they are at liberty to
do so, by the combined infloence of the polar current*
and ^inds prevailing from the same quarter. These
factst it is quite notorious, all parties are agreed in /
ukd liave been acknowledged, over and over again, by
the Reviewer, Mr. Scoresby, Mr. Barrow in his
Voyages into the Polar Regions, Mr. Fnber, and Capb.
Parry, in thdr respective publications. The Quarterly
Reviewer, in his notice of Capt. Parry's Voyage^
seemed to be more than ever con&'med inbis.opinion of
an open Polar Sea by that of Dr. Brewster, who, '* after
comparing the results of the. expedition under Capt.
Pany with those he had drown fl-om a previous theory,*^
is of opinion " that the hopes which have been so reo^
sonab^ entertained of reachiiSg the Pole itself, are
theKiby encouraged ;" concluding that " the mean tem«
perature of the Pole of the globe will be 1 1", income
parably warmer than the r^ions in whidi Capt. Parry
spent the winter." The Doctor adds, « if the Pole i« (bc^
placed in an open sea, the difficulty <^ readung it
entirely ceases/'
Thus supported in his epiwen of aclear, open, and
navigable Polar Sea, by that of **ali< the Greenland*-
mea^" {eseq4 Mr. Scoresby^ and the themy of the
Data. Q
12-2
I
learned Doctor into tlie bargain, and having assured us^
that he considered *' the knowledge acquired on the
late expedition to have afforded a sanguine hope for
the complete solution of the interesting question of a
north-vrest passage," I must confess I expected he
had perhaps recommended the higher powers to make
another attempt by way of the Pole: especially as all the
original motives for sending Captain Buchan that way,
must have been evidently strengthened in his mind, by
the recently acquired knowledge. Nothing in fact
having happened that could possibly tend to weaken
them, except Capt. Bnchan's failure, owing " to one of
those accidents to which all sea voyages are liable;"
unless indeed Mr. Scoresby's book may have acted as
a sort of damper to the " sanguine hope" in that
quarter, if ever the Reviewer has condescended to read
auch passages as these.
V At page 4d of Scoresby's account of the Arctic
Regions, he says, " Were the mean temperature of the
Pole, indeed, above the freezing point of sea water,
and the mean heat of latitude 78° as high as 33° or 34°,
then the circumpolar seas would have a chance of be-
ing free from ice: but while the temperature of the
former can be shown to be about 18°, and the latter
11° below the freezing temperature of the sea, we can
have no reasonable ground, I conceive, for doubting
the continual presence of ice in all the regions imme-
diately surrounding the Pole." And at page 54 : " If
the masses of ice which usually prevent the advance of
navigators beyond the 82nd degree of north latitude be
extended in a continued series to the Pole (of which,
tmless there be land in the way, I have no doubt), the
expectation of reaching the Pole by sea must be alto<
gether chimerical^ Now, if we take Mr. Scoped>y to be
V
-J.
m ' in\r-':i.M^.^-j^ - -': ' :ij^iia-\^' t m^ Bt^fei ^siissss3 3 stmH^^
tving assured as,
acquired on the
nguine hope for
g question of a
|s I expected he
powers to make
ipecially as all the
uchan that way,
in his mind, by
Nothing in fact
tend to weaken
owing " to one of
ages are liable;"
lay have acted as
le hope" in that
lescended to read
nt of the Arctic
temperature of the
int of sea water,
high as 33° or 34°,
ire a chance of be-
imperature of the
18°, and the latter
f the sea, we can
iive, for doubting
the regions imme-
1 at page 54 : '< If
snl the advance of
f north latitude be
e Pole (of which,
ive.no doubt), the
sea must be alto-
MEr. Scored)y to be
;jii» ' .*il9» iil »<|jj j n'tt ^aaa»sa^ -
128
right in bis conjecture that " there is a continent of ice-
mountains in the regions near the Pole, unless there be
land in the way," what must there be between it and
the place where Capt. Parry wintered at, which, accord-
ing to Dr. Brewster's theory, is 11° or 12° colder than
the Pole, or, as the Reviewer says we may conclude,
" one of the coldest spots on the face of the globe 1" Ac-
cording to Mr. Scoresby, in this case there roust be a
frozen Ocean, north of lands surrounding that Ocean,
if there be no other land between them and the pole ;
which is very far beyond what Phoca has ventured to
suppose the ice extended. On the other hand, our
oracle the Reviewer says, " If we suppose that clusters
of Islands continue to be scattered over it (the Polar
Sea) on all sides, to the very Pole, or its vicinity, we
•shall in that case probably not be far from the fact, in
.concluding the whole of this extensive sea to be shal-
low, choked up with ice, and unnavigable." According
to this authority, then, this Polar Sea is to be choked
up with ice, if there be land. So that, take either view^
or combine both, we can come at nothing but ice, ice,
ioe, all along the northern shores of Arctic lands, and
a frozen ocean to some indefinite extent to the north-
ward of the northernmost of thoae lands. Being obliged,
at this rate, to give up the idea of any further attempts
being intended by way of the Pole, as perhaps the
Reviewer himself had done long before, I next con-
sidered what other particular knowledge bad been ac-
quired on the late expedition, to aflford this " sanguine
hope," and whereabo .ts the Reviewer could reasonably
expect it to be realized. I could hardly suppose he
would recommend another trial to be made to the
northward in Baffin's Bay ; " because it is now known
Ihat there is such a bay." Nor by the route last pursued
»i,
114
l<^
ii-
by Gapt. Parry, although, Jo/or, anccnsAilly ; beoause
*' he did not think that the strennoui, bat nnsnceeMful
endeavors of the late expedition, in two different sea-
sons, to penetrate to the westward of Melville Island,
aflforded any hope that the passage will ever be efTected
in that particular parallel of latitude : nor by the Wel-
lington Channel " in the first instance," though he says
" it may be desirable to look at the state of the Polar
sea beyond it, hereafter.*" But, above all others, it
never could be supposed that he would recommend the
attempt to be made by way of Hudson's Strait and
Bay, who had reprobated the very idea from the first.
Nay, he had recorded his decided opinion that '* all
former attempts had failed, because not one of them was
ever made near that part of the coast of America, round
which, it is most likely the passage would lead into the
northern or frozen ocean," a froxen ocean (by the by),
which he then believed to be without ice. And because
''hitherto most of our adventurers have worked their way
through Hudson's Strait, which is generally choked up
with ice ; then, standing to the northward, have had to
contend wiUi ice drifting to the southward, with contrary
winds and currents ;" and '* the most northerly straits
and iriande, which form the passages into Hudson's
Bay, -are of course never firee from mountains and
patches of ice ; and yet fA\ navigators proceeding on
discovery have either entered these Straits and had
to struggle against the ice and currents, and tides on
the coast of Amoica, or, &c."
If we may judge from the late second fruitless at^
tempt of Capt. Parry, to discover a passage that way,
the Reviewer's early judgment, in this particular in-
stance, has unfortunately been but too correct.
For .although Captain Parry did not, as far as Ihe
->i^Vii»; ' V '^id '^-"
19ft
Init nnsnceeMful
|two diflferent tea-
Melville Island,
Wever beeflfeoted
nor by the Wel-
)»" tbongh he says
itate of the Polar
▼e all others, it
recommend the
ison's Strait and
dea from the first,
opinion that ** all
rt one of them was
of America, ronnd
oald lead into the
ocean (by the by),
ice. And becanse
e worked their way
nerally choked np
ward, have had to
ardf with contrary
it northerly straits
;e8 into Hudson's
1 mountains and
Drs proceeding on
I Straits and had
?nts, and tides on
?cond fruitless at-
passage that wmf^
his particular in-
correct,
lot, as far as the
nempapen tell us, meet with any greater diAcfiltiea
tlian the annual ships of the Nortii-West Company gene-
rally do, in Hudson's Strait ; yet, after entering Hud-
son's Bay, he, like most of our adTenturers^ had tr "^n-
tend, not merely " with ice drifting to the 8outhwa»d/f
but was obstructed in his advance 'towards the NlW.
by the Repulse Bay of Middleton, whose testimony to
its existence, it appears, was doubted by himself as well
as the reviewer, who says, Middleton " looked into what
he was pleased to call Repulse Bay :" a name, however,
which has now become doubly appropriate, as well as
the Bay of Baffin. It may be ajllowed us to presume^
that the Quarterly Reviewer, who recorded his decided
judgment against making any future attempt, where
all former ones had failed, could not have been comulted
before it was resolved to send Captain Parry by /Aaf
twy route. For as nothing had been done, or become
known, between the ]rears 1817 and 1821, to alter the
grounds of his judgment in that particular, he could
not, it may be supposed, have been so inconsistent as to
have approved in the latter year, what he so decidedly
condemned in the former. . He may,,however, have been
persuaded to concur in the opinion of others, contrary
to what appears to have been his own better judgment
in this particular instance. Indeed the writer of th«
critique on Captain Parry's first Voyage, ia the 49th
No« of the Quarterly Review, says, (whilst the last ex-
pedition was pending,) Captain Parry " has recorded
his opinion in favour of its accomplishment, and A»a«;^r
gestion has no doubt been adopted on the .present voy-
age:" and "itcanscarcely be doubted then, that the
attempt is now about to be made, as recommemkd by
Captain Parry, in a more southern latitude, and close
along the north coast of America, where they may tea-
!'
i^6
sonably hope to meet with a better summer climate, and
a longer peason for their operations, bj at least six
weeks."''''" *ii > -.t' .' ■•/ ; i* ■■.!'•'
- Here then vre find that the ' sahgiiine hope* was
Fully expected to be realized on the north coast of America,
if Captain Parry had been fortunate enough to reach it
by way of Hudson's Bay, and any of its northern straits.
But he found those he examined blocked up with ice,
ivhich the Reviewer told us long ago they were ' never
Iree from.' I have not heard whether any of the Re<
viewer's mountains of ice' were met with there. How-
ever, we shall hear when Captain Parry's account of his
last voyage comes out, which I am very anxious to see,
in the hope of getting some more light thrown on the
subject ; though I must confess that hope is not very san-
guine as far as regards what ;^:ay, or may not, be here-
after effected along the north coast of America. In the
mean time, whilst the next expedition is pending, which
I am told is to proceed by way of Lancaster Sound and
down Prince Rq^nt's Inlet, towardsthat coast, let us try
the strength and solidity of the reasons given by the
Reviewer, in his critique on Captain Parryts voyage, as
well as those pi; HUshed by Captain Parry himself. The
Reviewer in roatyy passages has nearly quoted that offi-
cer's words/ and as some of his opinions are the same,
(though others very diflferent,) they may be considered
tus' jointly belonging to both : the one by original sug-
jgestion^ and the other by adoption. I shall quote from
■both, and octsasionally compai^tr.»?»a fMv««'wif gwwt
;;a f'J t- -li^rt •xjt mt**i
r
I In the first place, Captain Parry says, at pa< 142,
" I began to consider whether it would not be Mi tUe,
whenever the ice would allow us to move, to sacrifice a
few nliles of the westing we had already made, and run
along the margin of the floes, in order to. endeavour to
find an opening leading to the southward ; by taking ad-*
vantage of which we might be enabled to prosecute the
voyage to the westward in a lower latitude. I was tb^
more inclined to make this attempt from its having long be-
come evident to us, that the navigation of this part of the
Polar Sea is only to be performed by watching the occa^
sional openings between the ice and the shore : and that
therefore a continuity of land ia essential, if not absolutely
necessary for the purpose. Such a continuity of land,
which was here about to fail us, must necessarily he futt
nished by the northern coast of America^ in . whatever
latitude it may be found." Again, at page 287, Captain
Parry says, " Our experience, I think, has clearly shown
that the navigation of the Polar Seas can never be peh-
formed with any degree of certainty without a con^tmit/y
of land. It was only by watching the occasional openiifgs
between the ice and the shore that our late progreiss to
the westward was effecteAttia^. had the land continuid
in the desired direction^ there: can be no question that; wfe
should have continued to advance, however sloivly,
towards the completion of our enterprise^" "lb this
respect therefore, as well as in the improvement to beea^
pected in the climate, there would be a manifest advantage
in making the attempt on the coast of America, where we
are sure that land will not fail us." In both these ex-
tracts it is declared that a continuity ^f land is essential,
i*' not absolutely necessary. A continuity, where? and
how situated, as to the westward course to be steered by
ships ? Why a continuity, such as the North Georgian
JP^'imfr-
I
■^>^^BE^S!»ss^rmmise::i
f.g g ^ttr,"-'-'
■ I JBU I i | « "
188
Iildndf, lying contiguous to each other, nearly east
and west, on a parallel, twrtht or on the atarboard hand
of that counie. But why should it lie in thai direction,
and be situated north ef that course f Because such a
continuity did in fact enable the ships to proceed as far
ofi/y to the westward as it extended, but nu farther. How
did it enaUe them to do so ? By (ircKecting them from
polar ices, such as were met with at the west end of MeU
ville Island ; where, Captain Parry says, ** had the land
continued in the desired direction^ there can be no question
that we should have continued to advance towards the
completion of our enterprise." The Quarterly Reviewer
says, " tlie heavy ice found there was owing probably
to th& discontinuance of iasui, or to XYm prevailing northerly
winds hu^ia^ driven down the main body of ice and
waited it in among the IslaudA." This was a discontinu-
ance, rfland on Jhe north of the ship's course ; and the
adcaewledgmeat of the.ioe *< having' been driven
■dfifffu'^ inplies the belief that there must be a fertile
•upplyivom that quarter, and what Captain Parry terms
• posr^r in constant operation of *' enormous pressure"
!• hoore thus r "wedged: it m among the Islands."
Mn Fisher, whom I htMre quoted, before, seems to have
had a much cleareri^nGeption of this matter, at the time
.and plaoe^ than any 'Of his- shipmates. His words are
decidedly to ^ point, at page 99 : " I think it is pro-
-bable, as long as we find land to the northward, to stop
ike polar ice from drifting down upon us, that we shall
find la passage to the westward aJong the land. I do
ne( mean, however, to say that, a passage will, without
.any interruption, >be constantly found to exist between
4be land and the ice; on the contrary, I am aware that
a southerly wind may give un occasional checks, by
forcing the ice in with the coast ; but imined lately, the
^ :s; ! :JH- ■-, • •^^ y, . vj),;,a ^ . j g e^.j j .
I
130
Mier, nearly east
le starboard hand
in thai direction,
Because such a
to proceed lufar
It no farther. How
tectinf them from
west end of Mel.
3>8, •• had the iand
!an be no question
'ance towards the
iiarterly Reviewer
owing probably
Prevailing northeriy
body of ice and
) was a diecontim-
B course ; and the
ing' been driven
must be a fertile
iptain Parry terms
Dornious pressure"
mg the Islands."
»re, seems to have
matter, at the time
His words are
' I think it is pro-
northward, to stop
Uif that we shall
the land. I do
sage will, without
to exist between
, I aim aware 4hat
tional checks, by
timined lately, the
wind chani^es to the opposite direction, it will neces-
sarily have the contrary effect. This is not indeed a
matter of speculation, nor do 1 intend it to be consi-
dered as such ; for both ihis and the last year's experi-
ence have afforded us so many instances of the truth
of what I have said, that I have no hesitation in giving
it as my opinion, that the vicinity of land to the north'
waru will always be in our favor. My object in being
so particular on this point is, because there are some
amongst us of quite a different opinion" Mr. Fisher
does not particularly name any who thus differed from
him in this opinion, which he had so justly formed ; but
it would appear that Captain Parry himself, before he
reached Wellington Channel, regarded this " continuity
of land to the northward" of him, with " uneasiness, prin-
cipally from the possibility that it might take a turn
to the southward and unite with the coast of America ;"
not being then aware, as he afterwards learr.t by ex-
perience that such continuity was " essential, if not ab-
solutely necessary, for the navigation of this part of the
Polar Sea ;" and as I dare say it will be for the navi-
gation of that part of it, from the meridian of Prince
Regent's Inlet to that of Icy Cape.
We have seen already where andtxet/m/ this continuity
was, as well as its importance to the ships, as far as it
extended. That importance was fully proved by the
insurmountable icy obstruction which they met with
at its western extremity. And yet Captain Parry says,
and tiie Reviewer repeats it : ** Such continuity of land
as was here about to fail us, must necessarilyhe furnished
by the northern coast of America, in whatever latitude
it may be found."
"There would be a manifest advantage in making the
attempt on the coast of America, where we are sure
Data. R:
C5F»?»"
*Sir/-
■'r-i.v.IiiJjf >
■■•^jr^K^ij^ *■ * ".^fi: - if.-c^'^-
^•i.-'^mi^r- .
r . 4, . f -.Lmjii i i i I ■ • wi^ififi(.i«» I 'i ^' i ^v i ttiv^ i t^--,-,.' '
180
that land will mt fail us" If the Reviewer alone had
made such an observation as the first, it need not have
surprised one ; but that Captain Parry himself, with the
facts of his experience before him, should not only have
written but published the same, is indeed somewhat
unexpected ; for the two cases cannot possibly have
any feature alike, except as regards the term continuity
applied to them, and perhaps being so, in both having
a direction nearly east and west. Though there must
be continuity of land on the coast of America, yet surely
it cannot be such a continuity as that formed by the
North Georgian Islands, which failed Caplaia Parry at
the west end of Melville Island: -because the coast of
America is on the larboard hand, or to the southward oi
ships steering to the westward, and consequently to
leeward, as the prevailing winds are from the northward.
On the contrary, the continuity formed by the North
Georgian Islands is to the northward, or on the star-
board hand, of ships so steering, and therefore to wind-
ward. As to situation, then, they are only as opposite
as north and south. Fut in other and far more im-
portant points they are quite the reverse of each other.
The chain of lands extending from Baffin's Bay,
on the north of the passage discovered by Captain
Parry, acted as a barrier against the polar ices, which,
it is confessed by all the authorities I quote, are driven
from north to south, hy the combined power of the polar
current and **^the prevailing northeriy winds." The
southern shores of those lands ti&ing weather shores,
(or having the wind blowing from them,) were conse-
quently found to be comparatively free from ice. Nor
in truth was there, in the whole extent of that passage,
any such heavy polar ice met with, as was found near
the west end of Melville Island. But what was the state
of the northern coast of Melville Island, which was a lee
131
ieioer alone had
need not have
himself, with the
Id not only have
deed somewhat
t possibly have
le term continuity
>, in both having
ough there must
nerica, yet surely
t formed by the
Captain Parry at
:ause the coast of
) the southward of
consequently to
m the northward.
Bd by the North
If or on the star-
therefore to wind'
! only as opposite
and far more im-
rse of each other.
)m Baffin's Bay,
ered by Captain
polar ices, which,
quote, are driven
ower of the polar
y winds." The
; weather shores,
;»!,) were conse*
e from ice. Nor
t of that passage,
} was found near
vhat was the state
[], which was a lee
shore, as the winds are proved to prevail ? Captain Parry
has>tpld us what he observed at Point Nias. Nay, what
was the state of the shores /aciw^ the north of the lands
forming the south side of that passage, and extending
from Prince Regent's Inlet to Banks's land, at what-
ever distance those lands may be from the North Geor-
gian Islands ? Those lands were not seen all the way
in continuity, but there must be land there sufficiently
contiguous to prevent the field ice even from moving fur-
ther to the southward than it was observed to do from the
North Georgian Islands ; and if there should be no land
nearer to those Islands than the coast of America itself,
that coast must be the impediment, and the ice will be, in
all human -probability, found to be continuous quite to
that coast. Now, let us see what answer Captain
Parry will/umish to the last question, as to the state of
the ice to the southward.
It has already been seen, at page 142 of Captain
Parry's Voyage, that, when he first met with such
decided obstruction, near the west end of Melville
Island, he " was desirous of finding an opening in the
ice leading to the southward, by taking advantage of
which, he might be enabled to prosecute the voyage to
the xvestward in a lower latitude" At page 250, he de-
scribes the ice to the W. and W.S.fV. of Cape Dundas,
from whence, it being 1000 feet high, the "iew of it
must have been very extended. " It was as solid and
compact as so much land ; no passage in that direction
was yet to be expected ; the only clear-water in sight
was a channel of about three-quartera of a mile wide,
between the ice and the land."— At page 259, on the
26th of August, when he cast off from the ice, and
made all sail to the eastward, he says, " We kept close
along the edge of the ice, which was ^uite cmnpact to
"^pn
■iwi i .jmii. ii .lff ' li'v."-"" '
the southward, without the smallest appearance of an open'
in(f to encourage a hope of penetrating in that direction"
At page 261, when in lat. 72° 2' 15" and long. 105°
14' 20", he says, " A constant look-out was kept from
the crow's-nest, for an opening to the southward ; but not
a single break could he perceived in the mass of ice which
still covered the sea in that direction" And on the fol-
lowing day, the 28th of August, he adds, "The ice to
the southward, along which we continued to sail this
day, was composed of floes, remarkable for their extra-
ordinary length and continuity: some of them not
having a single break or crack for miles together, though
their height above the sea was generally not more
than 12 inches, and their surface as smooth and even
as a bowling-green ; forming a striking contrast to the
ice to which we had lately been accustomed more
westerly." On the 30th of August, he says, " Having
now traced the ice the whole way, from long. 1 14° to
90° without discovering any opening to encourage a hope
of penetrating to the southward, I could not entertain
the slightest doubt that there no longer remained a
possibility of effecting our object." Does Captain
Parry then, with facts like these before his eyes, really
mean to say, that a continuity of land, south of the
westerly course to be steered towards Behring's Strait, is
in any point, except the two I have mentioned, such as
one to the north of it? Suppose, for instance, that,
after he entered Lancaster Sound, there had been no
land whatever to the northward, between him and the
Pole, and that the land to the southward from Cape
Byam Martin to Banks's Land, or even to Behring's
StraiJ, was continuous ; I would ask him candidly, to
say, if he believes he could have advanced to the west-
ward beyond even the 80th degree of longitude?
earance of an open-
; in that direction."
5" and long. 105°
Dut was kept from
outhward; but not
! mass of ice which
And on the fol-
idds, "The ice to
tinned to sail this
ble for their extra-
3nie of them not
es together, though
enerally not more
I smooth and even
ling contrast to the
accustomed more
he says, " Having
from long. 1 14° to
► encourage a hope
:ould not entertain
longer remained a
." Does Captain
fore his eyes, really
land, south of the
3 Behring's Strait, is
mentioned, such as
for instance, that,
there had been no
tween him and the
ithward from Cape
even to Behring's
sk him candidly, to
[vanced to the west-
rree of longitude?
• 133 . ,
Would he have fou id that continuity *«^\f « ^^^^ °"^
ZtLrth.ard. whose existence .fo«e enal^ed^n^^^^^
reach the 1 14th meridian ? But the Quarterly Review
r«Ul %aps answer for hi. : " Yes he -« d not
ITy ha^e made as much westing as he did but he
would have reached Behring's Strait; because he would
Zl entered my ' Polar tasin; where t-e would av
been no ice to impede his progress. And ye the
Revifewer acknowledges that 'Mhe »ce found about the
S W extremity of Melville Island, was owing proba-
biy to the discontinuance of land, or to the prevailing
northerly winds having driven down the ™/'»^«dy';"^
Zged iUn among the Islands!" May I ask him then
To give me any so;nd reason, why the same combined
causes should not h.ve produced the same effects. (^ that
discontinuance had taken place in the same parallel on
any other meridian, between Baffin's Bay and 114
S longitude! and why it may not take plac at
the west end of Arctic lands, on any mendianswes oi
hat longitude, and in parallels even .— ./ «
Island. IF NO OTHER LANDS S^lOUld ^^^^^^^^
situated to the northward of them agam? He how
ever 1 dare say. will not allow the inference that mUs
be drawn from his own admission : for in the face of tha
admission, and in support of his firm bel^f sti H. tha
there is an open Polsr Sea, notwithstanding ice is
driven to the southward" from thence, where the supply
must consequently corae/rom, he gives the authority of
Captain Parry, who, he says, "has no doubt of an open
sea to the westward of Melville Island ; as whole fields
of ice, interminable to the sight, were obsei-ved to be
moving bodily to the westward for days together.
Captain Parry may have told him so, for aught I ktiow ;
but as far as I can find, what he has published m his
St
Lf j^M W m i iie i -gJB i MW '
134
Voyagerdoes not seem to me to amount to quite so much
OS this. At page 86, Captain Parry does, to be sure,
say something about a strong westerly current, which
by-the-by, though perhaps it was only a temporary
one, is not much in proof of the existence, there at
least, of the Reviewer's famous circumvolving current
between the Pacific and Atlantic from west to east, if,-
as he supposes, there be a passage for it. But this fact is
not at variance with Phoca's circumvolving current in
that direction. For he does not insist on there posi-
tively being a passage for it (though there may be,) any
where, but along the northern shores of circumpolar
lands, if it cannot pass between them, till it rounds the
north point of Greenland, and finds its way down its
east coast towards the Atlantic. Captain Parry says,
** On the 17th September, the current, which for the last
two days had been setting to the westward, and which
could not possibly have escaped our observation had it
existed previously to the late westerly and north-westerly
gales,, was here found to be running stronger than we
had before remarked it.— This was made particularly
t>bvious when, having reached the farthest point west-
ward to which we could possibly venture to carry
the ships, we were obliged to heave to, in order to
watch for an opening that might favor our views ; the
ships were at this time drifting to leeward through the
water, at the rate of about a mile and a quarter an hour,
in spite of which, they went so fast to the westward by
the land, that Lieutenant Beechey and myself estimated
the, current to be running at least two miles an hour in
that direction. I must here remark, that besides the
current to which I have now alluded, and by which
the floes and heavy masses appeared to be affected,
there was, as usual in this navigation, a superficial cur-
"Vi.
|nt to quite so much
does, to 'be sure,
ly current, which
[only a temporary
xistence, there at
jumvolving current
m west to east, i/i"
it. fiut this fact is
olving current in
list on there posi-
there may be,) any
es of circumpolar
till it rounds the
its way down its
!aptain Parry says,
t, which for the last
•stward, and which
r observation had it
and north-westerly
stronger than we
made particularly
farthest point west-
r venture to carry
ve to, in order to
vor our views ; the
leward through the
I a quarter an hour,
to the wetiteard by
d myself estimated
miles an hour in
, that besides the
id, and by which
3d to be affected,
I, a superficial cur-
135
rent also, setting the smaller pieces past the others, at
a much quicker rate. Of the causes which now pro-
duced this strong westerly current, at a time when the
contrary might rather have been anticipated, it is of
course not easy, with our present limited experience
of this part of the Polar Sea, to offer any very probable
conjecture; but the impression on our minds, at the
time, was, that it was perhaps caused by the reaction
of the water, which had been forced to the eastward,
in the early part of the late gales, against the ice, with
which the sea was almost entirely covered in that direc-
tion. Be this as it may, we did not fail to draw from it
one conclusion, which was favorable to the object we
had in view, namely, that the drift of so large a body
of ice for days together in a westerly direction, indi-
cated a considerable space of open sea somewhere in
that direction." As to this open space of sea to the
westward, it is only necessary to observe here, that as
it appears, from other previous remarks, that the tides
were here very regular, though it is not made to appear
so clear at times, whether Jthe flood was from east or
west ; at all events the floating ice was carried by thentt
sometimes one way, and sometimes the other. The
currents also are stated, as setting sometimes to the east-
ward, and as such ice must have been carried by theait in
that direction, " the large body of it which wasdrifting to
the westward, for days together," might have been only
returning back, to fill up the space it had before per-
haps occupied there, by means of what Captain Parry
calls " the reaction of the water, which had been forced
to the eastward in the early part of the late gales." In
the following year, when Captain Parry had gained
more experience in the vicinity of the S.W. extremity
of Melville Island, he speaks very differently on the
a.-mtLJV,~^ '■ V— r.
ido
subject of an open sea to the westward of Melville
Islard. He says : " We had been lying near our pre-
sent situation, with an easterly wind blowing fresh
for thirty- six hours together, and although this was
considerably o^the land, beyond the western point of
land now in sight, the ice had not, during the whole of
that timcy m&ced a single yard from the shore ; affording a
nroof that there was no space in which the ice was at
liberty to move to the westward, and offering a single and
striking exception to our former experience." Captain
Parry's former experience, however, was not obtained
quite so far to the westward, as it was at the time when
this single and striking exception occurred.
Captain Ross was instructed "carefully to avoid com-
ing: near the coast of America, in order to give it a good
offing," for, says the Reviewer, " had it been intended
that he should ascertain its position, his instructions,
we have no doubt, would have directed him to proceed
up the Welcome, and endeavor to pass through Middle-
ton's Frozen Strait^ whereas the object clearly was
to avoid being entangled with the shoals and islands and
ice, on the northern shores of America, which, by the
vague accounts of Hearne and Mackenzie, are very
similar to the wor/Acr« «Aom of Siberia." The Reviewer
too acknowledged that he had less apprehension of the
passage through Behriog'9 Strait being closed against
our navigators, except by ice, than of the difficulties
which they may probably have to encounter on this side
of America." No wonder then, if he had any influence
in the deliberations at the Admiralty, that, in order to
avoid //»e*e. Captain Parry was instructed to proceed by
Way of Lancaster Sound, and " if it should be found to
connect itself with the northern sea, he was to make
the best of his way to Behring's Strait;" not at all doubt-
ward of Melville
ing near our pre-
nd blowing fresh
Ithough this was
western point of
'uring the whole of
shore ; aflfordinga
ich the ice was at
ering a single and
erience." Captain
was not obtained
IS at the time when
cur red.
ifully to avoid corn-
ier to give it a good
id it been intended
n, his instructions,
ted him to proceed
iss through Middle-
i object clearly was
toals and islands and
rica, which, by the
[ackenzie, are very
ria." The Reviewer
apprehension of the
eing closed against
n of the difficulties
icounter on this side
'. had any influence
Jt that, in order to
icted to proceed by
should be found to
a, he was to make
it;"notatalldoul}t-
137
ing but that sea would be found free from ice, and na-
vigable the whole way. We have seen the result of that
voyage. With that result the Reviewer's resources seem
to have tailed him, and he very prudently gives up the
cudgel to Captain Parry ; and though he seems to have
had B. fearful hankering after Middletons Frozen Strait,
or Repulse Bay, which he disbelieved quite as much as
he did the existence of Baffin's Bay, yet after what he
had said and published he could not well recommend
it himself, as a next place of trial. He therefore informs
us that " the attempt was to be made as recommended by
Captain Parry, in a more southern latitude, and close on
the coast of America." This was preferred t^ a route
through Prince Regent's Inlet, on account of the delay
which would n«^cessarily be occasioned by proceeding
so far to the northward, as Sir James Lancaster's
Sound, in order to get into that inlet.
This last atteitipt has also failed, but with this " advan-
tage'' gained, as the Reviewer would say ; that we now
do know there is such a Bay as the Repulse Bay of Mid-
dleton ; and as to ** the difficulties which our navigators
would probably have to encounter on this side of Ame-
rica," he has been a true prophet for once.
And now, as the Reviewer says, " comes the question
to be solved as to the best and shortest route to get
upon the coast of America. From the appearance and
circumstances, at the southern part of Prince Regent's
Inlet, there was not a man ' i the late expedition, who
was not convinced that it opened oui into the sea^
which washes the northern coast of that continent."
This route however did not, it seems, hold out such
a fair prospect of success, as that taken last through
Hudson's Strait, as the latter was " recommended " by
Capt. Parry himself; and the Reviewer *' thought it
Data. '8
'^jm^!gsmii:7Am:-!'^im<^<^smf^s;^^^m^'^ii^»>^^ss¥^'3
13a
probable that either Hudson's Strait, Sir Thos. Roe's
Welcome, or Repulse Bay, or all of them, might afford
navigable passages into the Polar Sea." These then,
with " the knowledge acquired on the former expedi-
tion," afforded that " sanguine hope " for the complete
solution of" the interesting problem of a north-west pas-
sage." The route which last failed, was then of course
considered " the best and shortest, to get upon the
coast of America." That by way of Lancaster Sound,
and down Prince Regent's ln!et, where the present
attempt, it is said, will be made, may therefore be
termed the forlorn hope, whether it may turn out to
be the best or not.
As the last expedition failed in reaching the north
coast of America, the arguments of the Reviewer and
Capt. Parry, in favor of the route along that coast, are
of course equally applicable to it in the attempt now to
be made there. We will therefore proceed to examine
them.
In the first place ; if Capt. Parry should succeed in
getting through Prince Regent's Inlet, and to the south-
ward of the land forming its west side ; and i/that land
should trend nearly on a parallel, so as to be in con.
tinuity nearly, or to join Banks's Land, he will, in all
probability, find just as little difficulty in advancing as
far as the west end of that land, along its southern shore,
ay he did to that of Melville Island.
But, if there should happen to be a large space to the
westward of Banks's Land, without any land, and none
between it and the north coast of America, it is as proba-
ble that he will find the whole of that space filled with
iic^s and unnavigable, either to the west or south : and
for the same reasons that he could do neither in the
whole space between Melville Island and Banks's Land.
Sir Thos. Roes
lem, might aflbrd
la." Tliese then,
le former expedi-
for the complete
a north- west pas-
tas then of course
to get upon the
J Lancaster Sound,
.vhere the present
may therefore be
may turn out to
caching the north
the Reviewer and
sng that coast, are
he attempt now to
roceed to examine
should succeed in
t, and to the south'
; and if that land
as to be in con*
and, he will, in all
:y in advancing as
\ its southern shore,
large space to the
any land, and none
rica, it is as proba-
t space filled with
est or south : and
do neither in the
ind Banks's Land.
i^mm^^
139
But admitting that Capt. Parry should get on the
north coast of America, what then ? Why, he says, and
the Reviewer also, there " will be a manifest advantage
gained, in hiaking the attempt along the northern coast
of America, as he will there be certain of a continuity
of land. Arrived on the coast of America, and no ob-
struction from land, we" says the Reviewer, " tee no
reason why the passage to Icy Cape, which does not
exceed 1500 miles, might not easily be accomplished in
one season ; about 600 of these were actually run on the
last voyage in six days ;" but that was from the nest-
ward, quite the wrong way. He should have added, that
" it required five weeks to traverse that distance when
going in the opposite direction," to the westward or to-
wards Behring's Strait, as Capt. Parry did. If, as
I think, I have shown that there would have been no
advantage gained by making the passage to the west-
ward, along the northern shores of the lands extending
from Prince Regent's Inlet to Banks's Land,;)roi;iWer can Mr. Barrow
ich of his attention,
He says, at page
,^aK#f<«sss"-
373 of his Voyages to the Polar Regions, •* In fact,
the ice-bergs, and those vast fields of ice which float
about on the sea and are wafted down by currents into
the Atlantic, are chiefly formed on coasts, and in lays,
in narrmo straits, and at the mouths of great rivers.
The whole coast of Siberia is a fertile source of this
supply," [on the authority of the Russians I dare say :
I wonder what becomes of them all, now the door is
shut against them by the land to the northward of
Davis's Strait.]
" The multitude of large rivers which fall into the
Polar Sea, by carrying down the alluvial earth, have
formed numerous and expansive and shallow bays of
fresh water, which in the course of the winter become so
many solid masses of ice. As the sources of these rivers,
and a great part of their course, are in more southern
latitudes, where they never freeze, the water they sup-
ply is, in the winter, dammed up near the mouth, and
ice-bergs are formed, which, when broken loose, are
drifted out to sea. In the same manner the field ice is
formed in the straits, and bays, and on shallow coasts,
which, when set afloat in the spring, is carried out into the
sea : in this situation it is drifted about till, heaped piece
on piece, and driven about, it again fires itself among
archipelagos of islands, on shallow coasts, and in straits,
bays, and inlets, where each field becomes a nucleus for
an increasing accumulation, as in the straits of Belleisle
and Behring, for instance, and in every part of Hudson's
Bay down to the latitude of 50°."
Now, to be sure, if this be the case, there can be no
dissolution of ices on the north coast of America, and as
the wind, it appears, prevails generally from the north-
ward, they cannot be carried out to sea in its teeth ; so
that at this rate, on such authority at least, it must be con-
y^^nmn^smisms^mim^
•J'S-rst'^KiSv.
'P
\
142
tinimily encumbered with ices, whether those from the
northern ocean find access to it or not. How indeed
can such " an increasing accumulation" of ice be dis-
solved at all, when in Hudson's Bay, so much further to
the southward, there is an "increasing accumulation:"
nay, even "in the Strait of Belleisle! !" But then the
Quarterly Reviewer and Captain Parry will turn round
on Mr. Barrow and me, and say, that all this may be
••10, but " it can scarcely be doubted that the climate
on the north coast of America will be found to improve,
and the obstruction become less, as the ships advance
towards the Pacific. Besides, it is well known that the
western coast of every continent and large island (even
of our own) enjoys a higher temperature by many
degrees than the eastern coast in the same parallels of
latitude." As a fact, this is true with regard to northern
extra tropical continents, whose western coasts have
a much higher mean temperature than the eastern.
" This difference is extreme' v striking between the west-
em coast of North America, and the opposite eastern
coast of Asia. Mr. Daniel explains it, by the heat
evolved in the condensation of vapour swept from the
surface of the ocean by the western winds. This general
current, in its passage over the land, deposits more and
more of its aqueous particles, and by the time that it
arrives upon the eastern coasts is extremely dry : as it
moves onward, it bears before it the humid atmosphere
of the intermediate seas, and arrives upon the opposite
shores in a state of saturation. Great part of the vapour
is there at once precipitated, and the temperature of the
climate raised by the evolution of its latent heat." I ap-
prehend, however, that little of this efect will be found
to ameliorate the climate on the north coast of America
much to the eastward of Behring's Strait, owing to the
r those from the
t. How indeed
" of ice be dis-
much further to
accumulation :"
!" But then the
ly will turn round
t all this may be
that the climate
found to improve,
ie ships advance
11 known that the
arge island (even
rature by many
same parallels of
?gard to northern
kern coasts have
pan the eastern,
between the west-
1 opposite eastern
s it, by the heat
r swept from the
tds. This general
eposits more and
the time that it
remely dry : as it
amid atmosphere
ipon the opposite
>art of the vapour
tmperature of the
itent heat." I ap-
eci will be found
:oast of America
ait, owing to the
mSi»iK%i'^^^U-^
143
probable proximity and immense quantity of ices to the
north, from whence frigid winds prevail to counteract it.
And therefore that the rule will not perhaps be found
so applicable to the eastern and western sides of Arctic
lands, as it doubtless is to those of extra tropical conti>
nents more to the southward. But before the question
comes to further proof, which there is much reason to
hope it iJiy, by means of the intended /and crpedition,
let us try it by the test of the few recorded observations
hitherto made on the temperature of the east coast of
Greenland, in Hudson's Bay, and Behiing's Strait, as
extreme points in the case. For the first, we will take
the authority of Mr. Scoresby, in his V yageto Green-
land, published in 1822, who says, at page 204, after he
had landed in Scoresby's Sound : " The heat among
the rocks was most oppressive, so much so that my
excursion was greatly contracted by the painful languor
which the uncommonly high temperature produced.
Unfortunately I had no thermometer with me, but I
think the temperature could not be below 70° ; to my
feelings it was equal to the greatest heat of summer in
England." This was on the 25tli of July, to the north-
ward of latitude 70°. In Hurry's Inlet, he says, " that Mr.
Lloyd experienced a degree of heat as oppressive to his
feelings as he ever suffered either in the East or West
Indies, to which torrid regions he had been a frequent
visitor." " It so far overcame some of his men who had
attempted to climb an adjoining hill, that they could
not proceed, but lying down, fell fast asleep," &c. " The
superior heat of the land to that of the sea was most
remarkable and striking ; when the temperature on shore
was not less than 70°, the thermometer on board the
ship, even near the shore in Scoresby's Sounds never
rose, I believe, in the shade above 40°." ,. ^
^iSj^#«;taH».»S3SM*S8SS?aviks^^^^'- -
-* —
it, " almost every
kas complains of
eat annoyance of
ivhen surrounded
gust at 56" in the
aid what latitude
► the southward of
\ the eastern side
on the west side,
what Lieutenant
Strait, and also in
hich being almost
ly be expected to
well as that of the
3 radiation of heat
' the St. Lawrence
jhring's Strait, and
a latitude 03° N.
and of the surface
d, in lat. 631° and
f Augai:L, the mean
\% and that of the
August, in latitude
ard of East Cape,
md the sea water
id any one in his
the Pacific, which
70° or 80°, could
lid here. Neither
! western coast of
than the eastern,"
omewhat higher in
of Greenland.
rning the east side
146 . .
of Behring's Strait ought of course, according to the
rule of the Reviewer and Captain Parry, to be the
(warmest part of it on an equal parallel. Yet, bemg of
so low a temperature as it appears to be, on what
ground can it be believed that there will be a better ck-
mate further to the eastward, on the north coast, than
there is here ? Nay, by their own rule, must it not be
progressively colder from ley Cape all the way to their
point oi greatest frigidity and obstruction, about " mid-
way of the coast?" Or teethe one supposed by Ur.
Brewster to be " situated in about 80° N. latitude and
100° W. longitude ?"
I must, however, take the liberty of borrowmg one of
the Reviewer's own arguments to prove, that the cli-
mate « from midway," on the north coast of America,
towards the Pacific, can not be milder than it has been
experienced at its western extremity.
In the beginning of the year 1818, he took much
pains to show that the temperature of our climate m
Etigland was Imer in the three 'summer months of
1816 and 1817, by from 1 1° to 20°, than it had been m
corresponding months of 1805, 1806, and 1807--that
" the remarkable chilliness of the atmosphere, m the
summer months of those two years, was owing to the
appearance of ice in the Atlantic"-lhat » it would be
a waste of words to enter into any discussion oft th6
dimltiutioto of temperature, which muit necessarily be
occasioned by the proximity of vSSt mountains, and
islands of ice;" in short, that the westerly wmds did
iit fact acquire an unusually frigorific character, by
having passed over a few icebergs drifting to the
southward in the Atlantic, at the. distance of some
hundreds of rtiiled from the British Isles. What then
mnst be the character of winds in the circumpoW
Data. • ■
IV
o
•S|''!S?iS»'»'**'wv!
■ i i> S H ^ji BWW .tl l -JM W I I J
146 ^
Arctic sea, i/they "prevail generally from the north?"
And what their influence on the climate of the whole
north coast of America, upon which they blow, and the
ice drifts ; it being a lee shore ? That the winds, judging
theoretically, should prevail from the northward in the
Arctic regions, is perhaps indisputable ; and, though the
Reviewer has admitted it to be so, yet it is as well to
establish the fact' by the testimony of navigators in that
quarter of the globe.
Mr. Scoresby, from a mean of nine years' observation
in the Spitzbergen sea, in the months of April and
May, has "estimated the frigid winds passing over ice,
to be in proportion to the mild winds blowing from the
sea, as 173 N. to 69 S." In Baffin's Bay. it appears
by Captain Ross's register, that the northerly winds
were in proportion to the southerly, as 75 to 59— the
easterly and westerly, as 62 E. to 66 W.— And on an
examination of Captain Parry's register of the winds
for 448 days between July 1819, and September 18?.0,
the northerly winds were in proportion to the southerly
as 316 N. to 140 S. ; and the easterly to the westerlj
as 118 E. to 246 W. or thereabouts. So that i/any
ice be either formed along the north coast of America,
or drive down upon it by these winds, " prevailing, as
they do, from the northward and westward," and a
Polar current from the same quarter, I should like to
know by what possible means it can be expected to be
cleared of it, except by the effect of heat? Or, if that
which perhaps may be so dissolved is, as I believe,
replaced constantly, though probably imperceptibly, by
the tendency of the whole body to move southward, (whe-
ther it extends fiv.e or ten or any number of degrees
to the northward, towards the Pole,) how that north
coast, or the north or west coastp of any lands, on any
^
pom the north ?"
ite of the whole
sy blow, and the
winds, judging
lorthward in the
and, though the
}t it is as well to
lavigators in that
ears' observation
;hs of April and
passing over ice,
blowing from the
Bay, it appears
northerly winds
as 75 to 59— the
) W. — And on an
iter of the winds
1 September 18{iG,
n to the southerly
ly to the westerlj
. So that i/any
coast of America,
•9, " prevailing, as
ivestward," and a
', I should like to
be expected to be
heat? Or, if that
is, as I believe,
imperceptibly, by
e southward, (whe-
umber of degrees
!,) how that north
any lands, on suiy
"I
147
parallels and meridians between the N.W. part of
Greenland and Melville Island, can be otherwise than ,
perpetually encumbered with ice, provided no other land
be between them and the Pole ? But more especially po, if
we admit also the effect of the Reviewer's circumvolv-
ing current from the Pacific, to be " rushing in" through
Behring's Strait with " the greatest velocity :" for as
that current is bound to the Atlantic, it must set to the
eastward from thence, and carry along with it floating
masses of ice.
Lieutenant Kotzebue says : " The direction of the
current was always N.£. in Behring's Strait, and
stronger ' n the Asiatic than on the American coast.
I estimate the current on the Asiatic coast in the chan-
nel, at the greatest depth, to be three miles an hour,
when the wind blew fresh from the south. The con-
stant N.Ei. direction of the current in Behring's Strait
proves that the water meets, with no obstruction, and
consequently a passage must exist, though perhaps not
adapted to navigation :" and belieVing, in consequence
of what our Quarterly Reviewer had told him, that the
current in Baffin's Bay runs to the south, he thought
** no doubt can remain that the mass of water which
flows into Behring's Strait takes its course round
America, and returns through Baffin's Bay into the
ocean." — Mr. Von Chamisso, the naturalist, who was
with Kotzebue in the Rurick, is not quite so positive, nor
so sanguine: for he says, "After we had tried to
prove that a current goes to the north through Behring's
Strait, we must confess that it is too weak, and can force
but too little water through the narrow entrance, to
correspond with those currents which flow from Davis's
Strait, and along the east coast of Greenland, towards
the south." This gentleman too, i*^ seems, believed, at
the time he wrote this, in the Reviewer's current down
[li
*
149
(I
Baffin's Sea," which we have seen had no existence
but in his own fertile imagination.
Captain Buraey supposed " the current in Behring's
Strait to be periodical ; were it perpetual," said he, " its
moderate rate through a channel neither wide nor
deep, could contribute little towards a current in the
Greenland seas." Very little, truly — and perhaps has
nothing to do with the current in the Spitzbergen sea.
We have seen, from the testimony of Mr. Scoresby
junior, that the current there is perpetual. Indeed, from
the united testimony of hundreds besides, there can be
no doubt of the fact of a constant current from the
northward, out of the Polar Sea, towards the Atlantic
Ocean : and because it is exactly such an eflfect as
must of necessity result from physical causes ori-
ginating in heat and cold on the globe. Tbis»
too, being the only effect of that cause hitherto dis-;
covered in the Arctic regions, has appeared to me to
be, of all others, the strongest argument against the
practicability at least — nay, almost the existence of a
passage for ships from the Atlantic into (what I under-
stand by) the Polar Sea, on any parallel and meridian,
from the N.W. part of Greenland to Melville Island.
The ^pace between Melville Island and the coast of
America, to ^ehring's Strait, still remains to be explored
by ships. To that space the same argument is appli-^
cable under the like circumstances. . For, should a
simila^r effect (the certain result of the same cause) not
be found there, the same conclusion must follow — Im-
practicability.
But further, even if such similar current should
be hereafter discovered flowing from th^ Polar Sea,
somewhere within that space^ towards tl^e Atlantic,
between insulated lands ; it may indeed prove the
existence of a passage, perhaps under the ice, for water
lad no existence
nt in Behring's
1," said he, '* its
ither wide nor
current in the
nd perhaps has
ISpitzbergen sea.
f Mr. Scoresby
/. Indeed, from
es, there can be
urrent from the
irds the Atlantic
ich an effect as
sical causes ori-
globe. This,
use hitherto disr
•peared to me to
nent against the
he existence of a
to (what I under^
ilel amd meridian,
I Melvilk Jslatid.
and the coast of
ins toi be explored
rgument is appli-
. For, should a
e same cause) not
nust follow — Im-
r current should
n th^ Polar Sea,
'ds tl^e Atlantic,
ndeed prove the
the ice, for water
149
and fish, like that between Melville Island and Banks's
Land, without proving its practicability for ships. Be-
cause, as such current must of necessity be from the
north or west, or both, it will in all probability close
up the narrower passages with ice. Even admitting
then the circumvolving current of the Reviewer (not
from the Pacific^ but) from Behring's Strait to the east-
ward, to be flowing towards the Atlantic by way of
channels yet unexplored between Melville Island and
the coast • of America, if these channels should not
be sufficiently wide to allow the heavier masses and
fields of ic3 to pass through with the current, from the
northward, or westward, or both '^ the natural conse-
quence, I should apprehend, must be an accumulation
of icy obstruction at the northern and western openings
9f such channels ; as was the case in the space between
the west end of Melville Island and Banks's Land, and
since that time, in the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.
And this, too, on the same principle, and for the same
reason, that a grating placed across a stream would
cause an accumulation of such jioating substances as
cimld not pass through it, on the side neMt its source.
At the same time, it must be observed, thai even the
future proof of such current from the northward or
westward, from the Polar Sea, or along the northern
coast of America, will not in the least tend to prove
that either the one or the other has the waters of the
Pacific Ocean for its source, as has been so wildly conr
jectured : for the waters of that ocean can have no
more to do with it, as a cause of its existence in any part
of the north circumpolar regions, (except through the
medium of evaporation and a northerly movement m
the atinosphere,) than the man in the moon.
I
^, KM
X
^j^
.■P 4. l i. i - iiii Mi ■ . u m m* . w «M i nj ^' -^"y « shallowness of the sea near the north
coast o/ jia, freshes discharger' into it from many
large rivers, anu aie coast fronting .c north, render
it more liable to be frozen, than the seas of Greenland
and Spitzbergen in a much higher latitude. The
northern lands in the Icy Sea are impediments to the
dispersion of ice, and hence arises the great difficulty of
navigation in that sea." This passage is partly appli-
cable likewise to the north coast of America. But
Captain Franklin has recorded his favorable opinion
of the practicability of a passage for ships along that
coast. " Our researches," he says, " as far as they
have gone, seem to favor the opinion of those who con-
tend for the practicability of a N.W. passage. The
general line of coast probably runs east and west,
nearly in the latitude assigned to the Mackenzie river,
the Sound into which Kotzebue entered, and Re-
pulse Bay; and very little doubt can, in my opi-
nion be entertained of the existence of a continued sea
in or about that line of direction. A connexion with
Hudson's Bay is rendered more probable from the
same kind of fish abounding on the coast we visited,
and on the coast to the north of the , Churchill river.
The portion of sea over which we passed is navigable
!
;.'?i^!^^::v53«v!r--
162
for ships of any size ; the ice we met with, particularly
after quitting Detention HarbBur, ^would not have ar-
rested a strong boat. The chain of islands affords
shelter t'lom all heavy seas, and there are good harbours
at convenient distances."
There can be no doubt that the chain of islands
seen to the northward of that portion of the coast ex-
plored b ■ Capt. Franklin, from the Copper MinCvRiver
eastward, would shelter ships from heavy seas, if it
Were likely there could be any produced there. And
. the shelter those nearest, as well as the North Geoi^ian
Islands, afforded to that part of the coast, was the rea-
son why it was not much encumbered with ice, more
e{fpecia11y to the eastward of Detention Harbour ; as
George the Fourth's Coronation Gulf is almost com-
pletely protected by Wilmot's Chain, and other islands
to the northward of it. If a similar chain should
exist from Cape Hearne to Icy Cape, there will proba-
bly be a navigable passage all the way between it and
the coast of America, provided it runs, as Capt. Frank-
lin supposes, east and west, nearly in the latitude as-
si :ed to the Mackenzie River, and the Sound into
w.. jh Kotzebue entered. But there is some reaHon to
fear that the coast of America, westward of Mackenzie's
River, will be found to trend more to the northward
than the dotted imaginary line of direction so arbitra-
rily assigned to it by geographers. The late Admiral
Bumey said, " an account or notice is given by Kobi-
lef of a great river, in the coast of America, to the tlorth
of Behring's Strait, which river is described to take a
long course in a southerly direction, and its banks to
be full of villages." Can the Sound discovered by
Li^t. Kotzebue to the northward of Behring's Strait,
between Capes Krusenstem and Espenbei^, lead to
k'ith, particularly
lid not have ar-
|f islands affords
|tre good harbours
chain of islands
of the coast cx-
pper MinCi River
heavy seas, if it
ced there. And
B North Geoi^ian
oast, was the rea-
ed with ice, more
tion Harbour ; as
f is almost com-
and other islands
ilar chain should
!, there will proba-
ay between it and
s, as Capt. Frank-
n the latitude as-
d the Sound into
! is some reason to
ird of Mackenzie's
to the northward
irection so arbitra-
The late Admiral
ts given by Kobi*
lerica, to the tlorth
iscribed to take a
, and its banks to
nd discovered by
f Bebring's Strait,
cipenberg, lead to
153
tbis great river, " dpscribed to take a long course in a
southerly direction ?" Though Kotzebue's detail of his
proceedings in this Sound is rather obscure and un-
satisfactory, and so apparently contradictory, in some
parts, as to implant a doubt of its correctness ; yet I
am rather disposed to attribute this to the translation,
which is evidently defective, than to any intention on
his part, to conceal known facts, for the .purpose of
deception. He entered this Sound, named after him,
on the Istof August. "At 11 o'clock Xbe says) we
were at the entrance of a broad inlet ; the coast va-
nished in the east, and high mountains showed them-
selves in the north." Here the wind abated, and he
anchored in seven fathoms water, in lat 66° 42' 30^
and long. 164** 12' 50" : at 7 o'clock he weighed again,
" and steered to the eastward (across, but as he says)
up the strait." " On the 2nd, at day-break, our ex-
pectations were at the highest pitch ; there was still
nothing but open sea to the east." The next passage
is rather rsmarkable. *' As we now saw low land in the
south, the direction of which was likewise to the east,
we could no fonger doubt that we were really in a
broad channel, as we always continued to see the open
sea in the east." Now, if there be any channel leading
to ibe eastward, it must be opposite to his noo*i position
of this day, which was in lat. 66° 35' 18", and long.
162* 19', in 8 fathoms water, where he says he was
^' obliged to tack, because the wind turned to the S.E"
But if there had been a pasHage to the eastward, where
be says *< the sea continued open," surely the shifting
of the wind, in soundings of eight fathoms, need not
have prevented him from standing on in that direction,
on the starboard tack, to explore an open space in so
promising a quarter, or at least till he had seen the land
Data. U
~= Vr ' r->^ =!;'> v' ~*i^*' '
'?^ISffiS!Sei*BKS'J»^^5SW«iwiiaft«»t.'^?<:'-j.Tr>i<^
, «ii5-rJif),B5^i^7a<,«ri*-vr--- -— - —
,Ji.
• • i
1'54
in continuity, o^ d shoaled his water, so a« mo* to bo
able to proceed further. According to his puWislwd
Chart of this Sound, howeter, the land must have been
seen to the eastward, from the noon position of the
Rurick on the 2d August ; for the whole eastern side of
Kotzebue's Sound is delineated in continuity, and a
working track along it is laid down as far to the south-
ward as Chaifaisso Island. He anchored to the west-
ward of this island, " in eight fathoms water, in an open-
ing five miles broad, where he still cherished the hope
of discovering a passage into the Frozen Ocean;'
which hope, it may therefore be presumed, had thus far
been disappointed, and as it also was here. " The an-
chor was weighed; we sailed (tathe eastward) up the
Strait, and whan we had passed the narrow part, we
again cast anchor in seven fathoms." He then pro-
ceeded to examine the coast eastward with h» boats j
and on the 7th, when in Eschscholtz Bay, he says,
" We had advanced so far at noon, that we could rfw-
tinctly observe that the land was united every where. At
the distance of a full mile from the shore, the water had
decreased to the depth oi five feet, and the hope of dis-
covering a river also vanished." But he says, further on :
♦'I called the Bay after our physician, Eschscholta.
I do not doubt that there was a river behmd the high
mountains, which the shoals, however, would not permit
us to investigate. The ebb tide runs out seven, and the
flood ohly five hours. They change regularly; the
current sets with more violence out than m, and some-
times runs two knots." These are indications of a rvver,
but not of a channel leading to a sea; but Kotzebu^
in his Chart, has connected the whole coast round
Eschscholtz and Spafariefs Bays, though it does not
seem quite certain that he carefully examined the latter:
1.55
so as Bot to he
his puUithed
mtut have been
position of the
eastern side of
^Uinuityt and a
far to the soutb-
ired to the west-
iter, in an open-
irished the hope
''rozen Ocean ;"
ed, had thus far
ere. "The an-
iastward) up the
narrow part, we
He then pro-
with his boats }
Bay, he says,
lat we could y the American
extends to Nor-
Bay." Now, as
and Schischma-
e Kotzebue was
ich this strait or
other of those di-
bave " thought it
:ean, that the In-
days rowing to
rds, when speak-
ly hope ih^tthi*
?s next year ; and
with certainty be
able to penetrate
bas very deep in-
bo accompanied
167
Lieutenant Kotzebue, in his " remarks," has thij pas*
sage : " We observe that that part of the An^rican coast
which we examined to the north of Behring's Strait,
appeared to us t6 excite the hope of finding a channel
among the entrances and friths which intersect it, and
which might lead to the Icy Sea towards the mouth of
Mackenzie River, without doubling Icy Cape, which
would then be part of an island ;" and in a foot note,
he adds : " Several Journals have published a letter
from the author of these articles (San Francisco, New
California, on the 28th of October 1816,) in which tliii
opinion was delivered ; an error of the copyist has
altered the sense, so as to make it seem as if this-
mtrame had really been examined by us " These passages
seem to afford some ground to suspert that there may
be an opening on the east side of KotzuL}ue Sound whic i
had been seen, but not examined; or on what can Kotze-
bue have founded his belief, that he should 'be ^.ble to
penetrate much further to i\\eeast" the folio wi,;^ year?
Certainly, from what he has «aiV, concerning the bottoni
of that sound, and an inspection of the chart Le \m
published, if truet no such belief or even ho';>i: can be
excited; for he has connected the land • om^letely
round it, with the exception of the strait in the Bay
of Gbod Hope, leading to the westward. Willing to
believe him to be an officer of honorable principles and
veracity, I can hardly bring myself to suppose him other-
wise without further proof. The hope he expressed, (if
he really had any,) of being "able to penetrate further to
the east" out of Kotzebue Sound, must have rested on
the known existence of some strait supposed to lead from
the east side of that sound tc the Northern Ocean.
And if what he learned from inc Indians did refer to
such a strait, instead of the one on the west side, i%s it
~~' '•:: J g jei*"ftt4fe t- atf vi • i H ' jn i t iiiiai .t vTn ia^jrura^^ji^ ^iin i ^uinn m
■tatwiitifaia^v
iTJ^gat^^
Ift8
evidently does both in his chart and publication, he
may inadvertently have told the truth tojMr. Barrow on
his arrival in London, and afterwards have been com*
manded by bis govemm^it to falsify both. However,
I must confess, I would much rather attribute this dis*
cordance to some misunderstanding, than allow my-
self to suppose the other to be even possible. If, on the
other hand, there is only a river at the bottom of £sch-
scholtz Bay, " behind the mountains, which tlie shoals
would not permit Kotzebue to investigate," it could
hardly be expected to communicate with the northern
Ocean, unless by another branch. In that case, it
would not answer to the description of the " Great
River" mentioned by Kobilef, which is said " to take
a long course in a southerly direction." If^ therefore,
any such river exist, it must be looked for still farther
to the northward, and perhaps beyond Icy Cape.
4 From some facts stated in the account of Captain
Parry's attempt through Lancaster Sound, and in Cap-
tain FrauLclin's Journey, it seems doubtful whether
what may be properly termed the Polar Sea has yet
been reached. But it is very possible that each may
have navigated in waters separated from it by conti-
nuity of land, at some yet undefined distance to the
northward and westward ; in which waters, the North
Georgian Islands, and others perhaps to the westward
of them, are situated, -and extend perhaps as far as
the 130th meridian; and into which both the Copper-
mine and Mackenzie's rivers disembogue : in short, a
mediterranean sea, communicating with the Bays of
Iludsoii and Baffin, by various channels, through which
the flood tide finds its way from the Atlantic and
Spitzbei^en Sea.
. Captain Ross found the flood tide to set from the
%
■m=i^^^
%'iMiS^f^^**'
publication, he
ijMr. Barrow on
have been com*
th. However,
ttribute this dis*
than allow my*
ssible. If, on the
bottom of Esch-
which the shoals
tigate," it could
ith the NORTHERN
In that case, it
m of the "Great
is said " to take
1." Ift therefore,
d for still farther
id Icy Cape.
count of Captain
ound, and in Cap-
t doubtful wheth^
*olar Sea has yet
ble that each may
from it by conti-
}d distance to the
1 waters, the North
ps to the westward
perhaps as far as
both the Copper-
bogue : in short, a
with the Bays of
lels, through which
the Atlantic and
de to set from the
150
aouthwatd all the way up the east side of Baffin's Bayj
The rise and fall decreased gradually, and the timet
of high-water at full and change were later, as far as
he advanced to the northward. The tide of flovod set
to the southward and westward on the west side of
that Bay, as he returned along it, to the south^tard.
Captain Parry, near Possession Bay, in lat. 73^31' 16",
and long. 77° 22', says, "he found the rise and falloftide^
as nearly as could be j udged from the marks on the beach^
to befrom 6 to 8 feet. While the tide was rising, the
stream came from the north wa.d and westward along
the shore of the Bay. It is more than probable, there-
fore, that the flood comes from the N.W. on this part
of the coast." Whether the flood came from the
west, out of Lancaster Sound, or from the northward
down the west side of Baffin's Bay, it must of course,
at this place, have taken the direction imposed on it by
the trending of the coast from Cape Liverpool towards
the south-east. ^ >*,>
" On the 7th of August, when in Prince Regent s In«
let, off Port Bowetk, he says, ** The whole rise of tide
(being nearly the highest of the springs,) appears to have
been ten feet. The ebb was found to set strong to the
southward in shore. A boat being moored to the bot^
torn, at three miles' distance from the land, at 5 p.m., not
the smallest current was perceptible. From these and
several subsequent observations, there is good reason
to suppose that the flood tide comes from the southward
in this inlet." Captain Parry adds : ** I have before
observed, that the east and west coasts which form this
grand inlet are probably islands : and on an inspection
of the chart, I think it will also appear highly probable
that a communication will one day be found to exist
between this inlet and Hudson's Bay, either througb
1
■^SiMiK^llB''''*'*'''**'**-'''-'*' ''■'«»''!1»~^' ■'"'S*'-' -'^■«"--'<^s.l'
100
the broad unexplored channel called Sir Thomas
Roe*s Welcome, or through Repulse Bay, which has
not yet been satisfactorily examined. It is also pro-
bable that a channel will be found to exist, between the
western laud and the northern coast of America; in
which casct the flood-tide which came from the south-
ward, may have proceeded round the southern part of
the west land out of the Polar Sea : part of it setting up
the inlet, and part down the Welcome, according to the
testimony of all the old navigators." That the east and
west lands forming Prince Regent's Inlet may be
islands, is very likely; and that it communicates with
Hudson's Bay, appears to be little less than certain :
for (to my mind at least,) it is proved by the flood-tide
running from the southward.
As I believe this tide has its source in the south and
easty and that it flows from the Atlantic and Spitzber-
gen Sea, through Hudson's, Cumberland, and Davis's
Straits, by channels of communication with them all,
and perhaps by others yet unexplored, still further to
the northward on the west side of Baffin's Bay, that in
Prince Regent's Inlet is consequently apart of it. This
part, when it reaches the north entrance of Prince Re-
gent's Inlet, naturally takes the direction of the east
and west lands forming it ; setting to the eastward on the
former, and to the westward along the latter towards
the Wellington Channel ; and making the times of
high-water, at full and change, progressively later in that
direction, as far as, or perhaps beyond Melville Islaitd:
the other part of the great general flood sets down the
Welcome, along the west side of Hudson's Bay, as it
naturally must, from the trending of the yet known land,
and making the times of high-water at full and change,
on that coasty progressively later to i}n.e southward. This
td Sir Thomas
(Bay, which has
It is also pro-
dst, between the
of America; in
from the soutb-
southern part of
Irt of it setting up
according to the
That the east and
Inlet may be
nmunicates with
ess than certain :
by the flood-tide
i in the south and
tic and Spitzber-
and, and Davis's
on with them all,
id, still further to
iffin's Bay, that in
r a part of it. This
ice of Prince Re-
ection of the east
beeastwardon the
the latter towards
dng the times of
ssively later in that
d Melville Islai^d:
od sets down the
idson's Bay, as it
e yet known land,
t full and change,
B southward. This
" 161
fact, therefore, can by no means prove, as Ellis and
others have concluded, that because the flood-tide in
the Welcome pets to the southward, it must necessarily
come from the xcest, originally, out of the Polar Sea,
and that therefore there must be a navigable passage.
Nor, indeed, if the flood tide shall hereafter be found
to come from the westward, along the southern shores
of the land west of Prince Regent's Inlet, will it in the
least prove that the Polar Sea is its grand source, as has
been conjectured. For the same fact would occur in an
inclosed sea, by the flood taking the direction of its
circumbounding land. It will no doubt prove the ex-
istence of a channel between that land west of Prince
Regent's Inlet and the northern coast of America, but
nothing more.
Channels of communication are known to exist be-
tween the Atlantic and Bafiin's and Hudson's Bays,
and now, there perhaps can be little doubt of one between
them by way of Lancaster Sound, and Prince Regent's
Inlet. There probably are others, though yet undisco-
vered.
As far as can be gathered from the experience of
Captain Parry, and the facts stated by him as well as
Mr. Fisher, in their respective publications, it \vould ap-
pear that the flood-tide through Lancaster Sound, and
Barrow's Strait, all the way to Melville Island, has ito
generaliLoyf,nol{vom the west, but from the e£U^ and from
the northward between some of the North Georgian
Islands. The times o(high water, too, at full and change,
as far as they can be got at, seem to have been progress
sively later from east to west, and the rise and fall of tide
was also less and less in that direction. On the 22d of
August, when ofl'Gascoyne Inlet, about the longitude of
9(r, Mr. Fisher says, " I have only to add one circum-
Data. X
I
t
';i^-
iJSfeS»r?8*r*^
j.,-:*^
■:'■» m ! wy *. M. the tide had
nued to fall till 7
all of tide not ex*
At the time we
T a current in the
ast 7 the tide was
ad a half an hour,
turned on board,
rrd. By the above
tt full and change
• one o'clock. The
: appear so clear."
163
*• If" says Captain Parry, " it come from the westward,
there must be a tide and half tide, but it seems more
probable^ on an inspection of the chart, that here, as on
the eastern side of Byam Martin's Island, it will be
found to come from the northward between the islands."
But it is most probable, that, as the tide setting to the
E,N.E.. at half past 7 was the ebb, the flood must have
set to the W.S.W, m the stime place, unless Captain
Parry can give any good reason why it should not.
On the 6th of September, in lat. 74° 47', and long. 1 10*
34', Captain Parry says, " It was low water by the shore
at half past 9, and it had risen between two and three
feet when the boats came away at half past 12. During
this time, the ships were tending to, a tide coming strong
from the eastward, from which direction it is therefore pro-
bable" (why not certain ?) "that ihejlood tide runs on this
partof thecoa«/, though we had no opportunity of trying
its true set in the offing." Again, on the 9th of Septem-
ber, "Considering our present detention so near the shore
a good opportunity of observing the true rise and fall of
the tides, I caused a pole to be fixed on the beach for
the purpose, by which it was found to be high water at
half past 4 o'clock in the morning, and the tide ebbed i\\\
half past 10. From this time till half past 4 p.m, when
it was again high water, the tide had risen two feet eight
ittches ; so that, small as this tide was, it seems to be very
r^ular. The direction of the stream of flood was, as
usual, not so easy to determine. But I shall give the
facts as they occurred. At the time of lone water by the
shore, and for an hour and a quarter 6^reittook place,
the current was setting to the eastward at the rate of
three quarters of a mile per hour. It continued to run
thus for the greater part of the day, but at times it was
observed to set in an opposite direction, and now and
» i^ -«3fflSW3«WBK:»^?*>K v»W!e»«»*»*»«-
- '^M fwt'^t^TJ.l*^** ~ ■ '«■»
(. **-»«*f'»''^*wl L'-J ' - ■ ? ■ ■ ! - gt ''
164
then no current whatever was perceptible. From 8 till 1 1
P.M. it was running strong to the westward, after which
it stopped, and then began to set the ice the contrary
way. I have been thus minute in mentioning the above
particulars, not with a hope of throwing any light upon
that interesting question of the direction of the tides in
this part of the Polar Sea, but to show how impossible
it is, with the land close on one side, and on the other
innumerable masses of ice, in almost coitstant motion,
to arrive at any satisfactory conclusion on the subject. In
Winter Harbour, in lat. 74" 47' 15", and long. 110°
48' 30'', it was found to be high water at 29 minutes past
1 o'clock, and the mean rise and fall was only 2 feet 7
inches." On the 1st of August, in the year following,
when Captain Parry was released from Winter Harbour,
and had rounded Cape Hearne, he says, " We found the
ships to be considerably impeded by a tide or current
setting to the eastward, which, as it slacked about 7 in
theevening, I considered to be the flood, the time of high
water at Winter Harbour, this day, being about half
past 7." In this instance, as in others, where a supposed
flood tide from the westward has been mentioned, it is
coupled with an expression of some doubt as to its being
a tide or current. The flood tide from the eastward has
been stated more decidedly. Why, in this case and at
this place. Captain Parry should have considered the
flood to come from the westward, merely because this
" tide or current slacked about the time it was high
water in Winter Harbour;" when not very far frotn the
same place, on the 6th of September of the former year,
he thought that the tide coming from the eastward was
probably the flood, \ni can of course assign some good
reason. It seems to me, however, that this stream was
most probably a current, especially as he says on the
From 8 till 1 f
•d, after which
:e the contrary
ioning the above
any light upon
|n of the tides in
how impossible
nd on the other
|o mentioned, it is
ubt as to its being
the eastward has
this case and at
e considered the
rely because this
ime it was high
very far froin the
f the former year,
the eastward was
issign some good
t this stream was
as he says on the
Wk^
i6r>
14th of August, " The frequent experience we had of the
quickness with which currents are thus formed, in con«
sequence, merely, of the wind setting the various bodies
of ice in motion, naturally Jeads us to this useful caution,
that one or two trials of the set of the stream in icy seas
must nort>e too hastily assumed in drawing any con-
clusions as to its constant or periodical direction." This
observation may be truly applicable to temporary
currents, but not to tides, which, though they may be
accelerated or retarded in their velocity by various
causes, must always set in the direction imposed on them
by others of locality, which cannot vary, the trend ings
of the lands between which they have their course.
Upon the whole, it appears that Captain Parry then did
find the rise and fall of tide to be less to the "west than
to the eastward and southward, from whence therefore, a
probable, at least, if not a " satisfactory, general " conclu-
sion may be drawn, that the flood tide comes originally.
Though we cannot come at the direction of the flood
tide on that part of the coast of America which Capt.
Franklin travelled and coasted, yet at the mouth of the
Copper-Mine River, in lat. 67° 48' and long. 114° 37',
he states, that a " rise and fall of four inches in the
water was observed." This was the farthest west and
the least observe^. In travelling from thence along
the coast to the eastward, the rise and fall, though
very small, if appears, did increase ; fronaf whence, there-
fore, it maybe fairly argued that the flood comes, till the
contrary shall he proved. In about 112° west, Capt.
Franklin says, " For the last two days the water rose
and fell about nine inches. The tides, however, seemed
to be very irregular, and we could not determine the
direction of the ebb or flood. A current, setting to the
eastward, was running about two miles an hour during
f
"^I^T^WIMMMMnPpHHM
168
our stay." About the mouth of Banks River, Capt.
Franklin says, " at this place the water fell two feet
during the night ;" and on the 3d and 4th of August, in
Bathurst Inlet, he observed ** a fall of more than two
feet in the water during the night." On the 15th of
August he adds, ** it may here be remarked that we
observed the first regular return of the tides in Warren-
der's and Parry's Bays, but their set could not be
ascertained. The lise of water did not amount to more
than two feet" Now it must be remarked that War*
render Bay is about the easternmost limit of Capt.
Franklin's researches.
Though I will not go so far as to say that the fore-
going facts, which I have collected chiefly from the
publications ** of those who contend for the practica-
bility of a N.W. passage," tend to disprove it; yet, they
are evidently very strong indications of an extensive
Mediterranean Sea, such as I have supposed may exist,
having communication by various channels with the
Bays of Hudson and Baffin, though not with the Polar
Sea proper^
Though the Quarterly Reviewer says, " Heame talks
vaguely of the sea being full of islands at the mouth of
the Copper-Mine River, as far as he could see with a
good pocket telescope ;" yet Capt. Franklin has proved
him to be quite correct, with regard to the numerous
islands ; and perhaps it may fall to his lot, also, to prove,
whether or not Heame was as correct too,*in " think-
' ing it more than probable, that the Copper-Mine River
empties itself into a sort of inland sea, or extensive
bay, somewhat like that of Hudson." There is another
circumstance yet to be mentioned, which gees far to
show, that Heame may be right in his judgment ; at
least it seems so to me. On the 17th and 18th of Octo-
kg River, Capt.
ter fell two feet
tb of August, in
f more than two
On the 15th of
marked that we
tides in Warren-
t could not be
amount to more
arked that War*
it limit of Capt.
ay that the fore-
cbiefly from the
for the practica-
>rove it ; yet, they
of an extensive
pposed may exist,
channels with the
lot with the Polar
ya, ** Heame talks
is at the mouth of
i could see with a
anklin has proved
to the numerous
lot, also, to prove,
ct too,*in " tbink-
opper-Mine River
sea, or extensive
There is another
which goes far to
his judgment; at
and ISthofOcto-
167
ber, when Capt. Parry was at Melville Island, " the
deer were observed in vast numbers, preparatory to
their departure over the ice to the coast of America, after
which one or two only were seen." The Quarterly
Reviewer says, on the return of summer, '* it was quite
astonishing to behold the rapidity with which the
various plants of the island pushed forth their leaves
apd flowers, the moment the snow was off the ground.
Whether it was the abundance of these flowers that
tempted the musk oxen and rein-deer to make the long
journey over the tee, or whether they came to these
secluded and peaceable islands to drop their young, is
not known. In a valley, formed by the stream of a
ravine, which bad the same lively appearance as that
of an English meadow, a whole herd of mu&k oxen
were seen grazing; and our surprise (says Capt. Parry)
in some degree ceased, at the immense distance which
tiiese animals must travel in the course of their annual
visits to these dreary and desolate regions ; as such a
pasture, affording undisturbed and luxuriant feeding
during the summer months, may, in spite of the general
appearance of the island, hold out sufficient induce-
voeat for tlieir annual emigration ;" and the Quarterly
Reviewer says in another place, that " deer migrate
from America to Melville Island, which is upwards of
300 miles from the Continent," Capt. Franklin too, in
bis Appendix, No. 5, at page 668, informs us that *' in
summer the musk oxen migrate in considerable num-
bers from the Continent (America) to the various islands
which exist in the Polar Sea," so that the fact is stated
and, of course, believed by all these authorities. In the'
autumn these animals pass from Melville Island to the
coast of America. In Uie spring, nay in the •• summer"
too, they return to that island, and " various " others
.■
i
^*tC3 ^-■^'**5f5*^T--- =
100
*• which exist in the Pohir Sea." Now by what means
are they enableund for conclud-
ith a better chance
le side of Ameri-
now, that in case
/, by finding land,
encumbered with
, he would rather
;;;aptain Parry had
a distance of 600
;o traverse," than
rinds" to beat back
nd to produce the
; of the new Geor-
ned that they must
g the northern and ,
) the northern and
ing between them,
fd. Consequently,
, and finding such
171
western entrances closed against them by ice, would
be in a much worse predicament than Captain Parry
was, for instance, when he found the western entrance
of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla actually so closed
against him by ice. For his obstruction being to wind-
ward of him, he had only to quit it and return home,
" with these winds from the West and N.W. prevailing"
in h\s favor, and perhaps the " circumvolving current"
of the Quarterly Review into the bargain. Whereas,
any ship having advanced from Behring's Straits as far
as the western limit of such obstruction as Captain Parry
met with, must have been reduced to the necessity of
beating back again the way she came; unless some
channel could be discovered to the northward, com-
municating with Barrow's Strait and Lancaster Sound,
which it is hoped Captain Parry will find by way of
Prince Regent's Inlet.
But no such obstruction from ice, and indeed but
little from even land intervening, can have entered into
the calculation of those who have said, " We Jirmltf
believe that a navigable passage does exist, and may be
of no difficult execution. It is the business of three
months out and home. We have little doubt of a free
and practicable passage for seven or eight months in
every year. Arrived on the coast of America, and
no obstruction from land occurring, we see no beason
why the passage to Icy Cape, which does not exceed
1500 miles, might not easilt/ be accomplished in one
season ; about 600 of these were actually run on the
last voyage in sij^ days;' and finally Captain Parry
himself "has recorded his opinion in favor of its ac-
complishment."
To persons thus sanguine in their hope, nay, so con-
fident in their expectations of success, the prevalence
" of westerly and north-westerly winds" must be, of
i
■
■I
. i(p»*s.*ir>fw^«ssfe'^«fc*w-
,„„.^y
.*•
i12
ail others, the hiobt fdvorable cirdumstance, as they
would ensure the Reediest perforhiance of the voyage:
for, as " they seem" to Captain Parry, so they do in
truth, for that reason, " afford a reasonable ground" (to
them) " for concluding that an attempt might be made
with a better chance of success from Behring's Strait
than the side of America." Indeed, as the Quarterly
Reviewer sees no reason ** why the passage to Icy Cape,
which does not exceed 1500 miles, may not be easily
accomplished in one season, as 600 of these were ac-
tually run in six days, by means of these very westerly
and north-westerly winds,** I would take the liberty
of asking him, why — (if he have no fear of either icy or
land impediment) should not the whole 1500 miles be
perhaps run with the same facilities in about one month f
which would be far less than what he considers to be
the duration of one season, who " has little doubt of a
free and narigable passage for seven or eight months in
every year."
The only objections, then, which these advoctttes
for the existence and practicability of a N.W. passage
can make, consistently with their publicly expressed
belief of there being no obstruction from ice, and little or
none from land, are those given by Captain Parry, in
the terms 1 have quoted ; not one of which appears
to rile to be of the slightest importance, compared to
that which has been given to the discovery oi this
famed N.W. passage.
And, were it not that /le has published them, and
that therefore, those who know little or nothing of the
matter may think tiiem very solid objections, they
would hardly deserve the notice of any seaman who
has had years of experience on service in ships of war,
in all the climates of the globe, except perhaps within
the north frigid zone, of whose imaginary inclemency
ance, as they
of the voyage :
, so they do in
ble ground" (to
might be made
iehring's Strait
the Quarterly
ge to Icy Cape,
ay not be easily
these were ac-
tse very westerly
ake the liberty
• of either Icy or
e 1500 miles be
bout one month?
considers to be
little doubt of a
eight months in
these advocSites
a N.W. passage
blicly expressed
icCy and little or
aptain Parry, in
' which appears
le, compared to
iscovery of this
shed them, and
r nothing of the
objections, they
tny seaman whof
in ships of war,
perhaps within
nary inclemency
173
as to the hMmKa feelings and its terrible effects, Captain
Parry has proved and recorded the non-existence, by a
practical experience which, being well merited, has
been justly rewarded. We will, however, examine them
one by one, and see what they amount to.
In the first place, " the length of the voyage to the
point where the work is to be begun" is objected to by
Captain Parry, and in his opinion renders " this mode
of proceeding altogether impracticable, at least for British
ships," But why for ** British ships" particularly, any
more than Russian, or indeed any other ships ? In the
present improved state of navigation, the length of the
voyage, say first to Macao in China, is absolutely not
worthy of a thought. The wear and tear of thai part
of the voyage might be with ease repaired there or in
theTypa. The reduction in the stores, provisions, and
fuel, could be madje up there just as well as in Eng-
land ; and if it could not, eVery thing considered to be
absolutely necessary might be sent out and placed there
in store preparatory to their arrival. As to the observa-
tion, " How injurious to the health of the crews, so ntd"
den B.nd extreme a change of climate would prove, as that
which they must necessarily experience in going at
once from the heat of the torrid zone into the intense
cold of a long wint3r upon the northern shores of Ame-
rica," it must by no means be " necessarily" so, or at all
probable that the healths of the crews would suffer in the
slightest degree, from any changes of climate to which
they might be subjected in the course of their voyage.
For who that has served (as perhaps Capiain Parry hai
not,) during the last war, for years, in all the climates of
the globe, and been as suddenly rer oved from hot to cold,
and from cold to hot, ever contemplated or experienced
any such injurious effects, either upon himself or his
I
174
ship's eompanies? None, I daresay; at least I can answer
for myself. Many, very many, after being grilled in
the Ease or West Indies for years, immediately on their
return home have been sent smoking-hot, to cool in the^
North Sea in winter, without at all feeling its effects,
more than the crews of any other ships long stationed
there. But perhaps I shall be told, that the severity of
the North Sea climate is nothing compared to that of
the terrible icy regions of the north. Certainly, the
North Sea climate may not be so cold ; but its humidity
renders men much more liable to pulmonary and in-
flammatory complaints, than it appears Captain Parry's
people ever were in the frigid climate of Winter Har-
bour. For he says, " In the severest weather, not a
single inflammatory complaint occurred, though in pass-
ing from the cabins into the open air, and vice versa^ the
men were constantly in the habit, for some months, of
undergoing a change of from 80 to 100 degrees, and in
several instances 120" of temperature." No such ex-
treme change of temperature as this (which, however,
had no injarious effect at all,) could possibly be expe-
rienced on a passage from England to China. There
the crews might be refreshed for months, if it were re-
quired. From Macao, the passage, with the S.W.
Monsoon, could be performed with ease, and in as
short a time, to Behring's Strait, as one from England
to the N.E. part of America ; so as to be off Icy Cape
in all July, if necessary.
So that on every consideration except expense, (which
can be nothing with such an important object in
view,) certainly, the best and most expeditious mode of
performing that part of the voyap;^ to the northward of
the continent of America, {if no obstruction from either
land or ice be supposed to exist,) would undoubtedly
ast I can answer
leing grilled in
diately on their
)t, to cool in the^
eling its effects^
long stationed
t the severity of
pared to that of
Certainly, the
but its humidity
monary and in-
5 Captain Parry's
of Winter Har-
it weather, not a
d, though in pass-
nd vice versa, the
some months, of
) degrees, and in
." No such ex-
yhich, however,
possibly be expe-
China. There
hs, if it were re-
. with the S.W.
ease, and in as
lie from England
3 be off Icy Cape
it expense, (which
iRTANT object in
vpeditious mode of
the northward of
iiction from either
)uld undoubtedly
flfuw" r 'W»""
175
be, by way of Behring's Sir^it to the eastward. But
those who do apprehend that obstruction may he proba-
bly met with, somewhere between Behnng's Strait and
the N.E. part of America, will prudentl v prefer having
the attempt made from east to west, but first to
examine Behring's Strait.
I shall conclude, for the present, with a passage on
this subject, written by the late Admiral !Burney, and
published in the year 1819.
'* Behring's Strait being- regarded as the most probable
opening on the western side of America, by many as the
only probable one, for the entrance into the Pacific, by a
northern navigation from Europe; and on the eastern side
of America, there being many inlets and arms of the sea
unexplored, of which a very small proportion can he
expected to lead to Behring's Strait ; it follows, that
the best chance for discovering a passage, or [for dis-
covering that there is no passage, is by commencing on
the other side of America. On this side of America the
question can only be set at rest by the discovery of a
passage, for twenty expeditions with the most favorable
seasons would be insufficient for ascertaining that there
is no passage."
If, as the Quarterly Review says, there be " a free and
navigable passage for seven or eight months in every
year," the coast of America must of course form the
south side of it. That coast c-^rn be got hold of at
Behring's Strait, and if it could br J.rnt sight of, and there
be no obstruction, a ship by >acii ■ • it must ultimately
discover it : and in less than half r k time it can possibly
be done from east to west, with tJ^e prevailing winds and
the Reviewer's circumvo!viry him at page 489 :
lers, in the Strait of
181
the Fury and HecU, seems to indicate that the obstruction we
there met with, is dependent rather on locality than season. It is
more than probable, that the obstacles which finally arrested our
progress in the Strait, are to be mainly attributed to the current we
found setting to the eastward through it, and which coincides with
that observed by Captain Franklin, and by the Russians, to the
westward." True — it does so— as to direction: but the cause
which Captain Parry assigns for its periodical flow and cessation,
renders it impossible to identify this current with the one they ob-
served, which is said to be perpetual. " This stream," Captain
Parry adds, " in finding its way through the Strait, would un-
doubtedly have the effect of keeping the ice close home upon its
western mouth, so as to prevent the egress of a ship in that direc-
tion : and I cannot help thii.!:ing that, on that account, the naviga-
tion of that Strait will seldom, if ever, be practicable."
On what possible ground, then, can it be expected that the west-
em mouth of any other existing Strait between Prince Regent's »
Inlet and Behring's Strait should, under similar circumstances, be
more practicable than that of the Fury and Hecla i
' Though Captain Parry says that " circumstances beyond the
reach of any previous speculation, have combined to oppose an in-
surmountable barrier to our entrance into the Polar Sea by the
route lately pursued," yet some of these very circumstances were
actually pointed out by the Quarterly Reviewer as the causes of the
failure of all former attempts, made in that quarter to discover a
nor^h-west passage. Nay — all of these circumstances, as well as
the result of Captain Parry's last voyage, were anticipated, and in
mf hearing mentiomed to many private friends by one who deemed
the judgment of the Quarterly Reviewer quite sound only on that
point, but who at the same time firmly believed that Repulse Bay
had been " satisfactorily examined ;" never, like him, having
doubted that Middleton was, what Captain Parry has now proved
him, a man of veracity.
■^^iii
tot
V'R-
Ctpteiii Ptrry Hjt, ** How«v«r utaraeceBsftil have been onrhtc
cfDdeaTon, they were onquettionftbly directed to the right place,"
Mild that, " with the limited geographical information we then pot-
MMed, do othelr roule than tha* pointed out in my instructioni could
ptfssibly have been puMUed with any rMisonable hope of raccew."
CiMtainly the route through F^-tdson's Strait and Bay did, to
tfaoie who selected it, hold forth e. )« hope at the time than any
other, because it was preferred ; and even after failure baa proved
it to be the terong, it is still ptrodained as the " right plaei:,''
and as the only route that Could possibly have been pofnued with
any reasonable hope of Success !
But this necessarily places the route by Prince Regent's Inlet
very low indeed in the scab of hope ; for at the time Captain
Pavrv tailed last, that inlet was as Well known to him as it is now.
No addition has been made to the then litnited geographical in-
formation he possessed immediately '^^unging to itteij'. If, then,
three years ago. Prince Regent's Ir'iCt were considered, as H is here
acknowledged to have been, as n/t holding, forth " any reasonable
hope of success," on what can a more reawnable hope be bsih
now ? For my own part, I must confess that I dare not indulge
expectation of more fW>m the next attempt through Prince Regent's
Inlet, &c. than Captain Parry's strenuous endeavors effected in '^' the
fight place;" and therefore, supported by an ackncwledgeikient
from such authority, I still consider it to be what I have already
termed it, the Forlorn Hope. And that too, tiotwithstanding
Captain Parry concludes his Journal in these words, which I sin-
cerely wish nay cne day prove to be prophetic : ** I never felt more
sanguine of ultimate success in the enterprise in which I Uhve
lately been engaged, than at the present moment'; and I cannot
bnt entertain a confident hope, that England may yet be destined
to succeed in an attempt which has for centuries past engaged bar
attention, and interested the whole civilited worlds"
THE END.
vebeenonrbtc
be right place,"
[Ml we then pot«
istructiona could
»pe of succeu."
nd Bay did, to
letime than ray
ilore haa proved
*♦ right placfc,"
en pumued with
;
^
Regent'a Inlet
le time Captain
[iim as it is now.
geographical in-
itseif. If, then,
lered, as it is heie
" any reasonable
e hope be bnik
dare not indulge
k Prince R^ent'a
reffectedin'^'die
icknowledgeikient
at I have already
, hotwithstawSng
rds, -which I wn-
I never felt more
in whidi I Hhve
it'; and 1 cannot
J yet be destined
I past engaged her
Friniedb!,A.J.Valp^,Hcd "ourt, Fleet Strcet .^
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1
i^
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