V IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) iiiii' ■AS 12.8 lit 1^ m m 2.2 lU no 2.0 I ■• u •uuu j^ ^ i?^ Hiotograjiikc Sdences Coiporalion ^^" ^. 33 Witt MAIN STRUT WltSTRRN.Y. MSIO ir?«)l72-4S03 '♦ •»%% 1N\ ,\ Entorod according to the act of Congress, in the year 1865, By WIUJAM S. EATON, In tlio Clflik's (ifiico of the District Court of tlio United Stfttwi for the Soiilhorn District of Now York. PKEFACE. rict of It was originally my intention to have given a general description of the form, climate, resources, &c., of the vast region over which the Snake language is talked, in the form of notes to a dictionary of that language, a plan that, as will ho seen, I had partially carried out, when my attention and time hecame too much occupied hy other affairs to enahlo me to devote myself to it as I wished to, and many parts of it that I had travelled over in days gone by, have since that time been developed in a most unexpected and extraordinary manner, proving incredibly rich in the precious minerals. So that a description of those parts of the Snake country, as they appeared to me then, would bear but a slight resemblance to their present condition, and besides, my descriptions of portions of Mon- tana, information regarding which is now eagerly sought for, were so scattered about through these notes that they were in a very unsatisfactory shape for those seeking in- formation in regard to it. These considerations have de- termined me to write a few pages describing in detail that part of my old " stamping ground," now known ns " Mon- tana t('rritoi7," and if there shoi'ld be some repetition of things already described in the notes, I hope my readers 4 PREFACE. (if I should be so fortunate as to have any) will pardon me, as they are necessary to render this last description intelligible. And now, in conclusion, if this slight treatise on " Our Country " should meet with the approval of the " ancients in the laud," or even of that much-abused class known as " pilgrims," I shall have had my reward. And hoping that each and every reader of this "magnifi- cent work," as John Phoenix would say, may live a thou- sand years and own numerous "feet" in every rich silver lead in Montana, I subscribe myself. Hopefully yours, Granville Stuart. Virginia City, Jan. 31, 1865. on on ise the ass ncl ifi- ou- ver 4 TANA AS IT IS. The name " Montana," properly belongs to a certain part of Spain, and means " mountainous," a name that is applicable to the country for a wonder. Still, I think that the Snake Indian name of " To'yabe-Shock'up," or " The country of the mountains," would have been more approjjriate, for some parts of Montana have been the home of these Indians from a time far anterior to the discovery of America. Montana consists of a series of basins, five in number, of which four lie on the east side of the Rocky mountains and one on the west. These basins are generally subdivided into a number of valleys by spurs of mountains jutting down from the main chain of the Rocky mountains. These spurs are often of great height, frequently exceeding that of the main chain, but there are many low passes among them, thus connecting the valleys with each other by low gaps that are passable at all times of the year. The basin west of the Rocky mountains, in the north- western corner of the territory, is drained by the Missoula and Flat-Head rivers, and their branches, the last named being the outlet of the Flat-Head lake, a bt>autiful sheet of water about forty miles long by twenty wide, which lies at the foot of the Rocky mountains, near the northern end of the basin, and not far from the line of British Columbia. This lake is surrounded by some beautiful country, a por- tion of which is valuable in an agricultural point of view. From the lake there extends south along the foot of the Rocky mountains to the " Pen d'Oreille" mission, a distance of over fifty miles, a well- wooded, gently-rolling country, clothed with a good growth of grass, a large proportion of it being excellent farming laud. Then leaving the 6 MONTANA AS IT IS. mission and crossing a range of hills to the south you enter the vuUey of the Jocko, which is small, hut in beauty and fertility it is unsurpassed. Here is located the reserve of the Pen d'Oieille Indians. Then crossing by an easy pass, over the lofty spur of mountains running down from the main chain between the Jocko and Hellgate nvers, you enter the lovely valley of the " Hellgate," which is about twenty- five miles long Avith an average breadth of about six miles. It is almost all good farming land with a good growth of bunch grass, and it is enough to make a man from the piairies of Iowa or Illinois cry to see the good pine timber that is going to waste here. Here comes in from the south the river and valley of the " Bittcr-Koot," a lovely and fertile region, extending south about sixty miles, with an average breadth of seven or eight miles. In this valley is situated Fort Owen, surrounded by a thriving settlement. This fort is not, nor ever was a government fort. It was established in '51 or '52, by the untiring energy and perseverance of Mr. John Owen, for the purpose of trading with the Indians, and it is at present the best building in Montana. The volleys of the Bitter-Root and Hellgate contain many settlers, whose number is rapidly increasing. The Missoula river is formed by the junction of the Hellgate and Bitter- Root. These valleys are bounded on the west by the Bitter-Root mountains, which are very lofty, snow lying on many of the peaks during the entire year. These mountains cover an ex- tent of country about seventy-five miles wide, reaching to the valley of Snake river in Idaho, and about two hundred miles in length, forming a howling wilderness of yawning canons and huge mountains, covered with a heavy growth of pine and fir timber, and aifording a home to a few elk and large num- bers of grouse, but of no earthly use for anything but the mineral wealth they contain, which is very great, as is proven by Florence City, Elk City, Oro Fino, and many other places of less note. MONTANA AS IT IS I « Leaving; the Hellgate valley, and going up the Hellgate river, which comes from the southeast, we enter Hellgate canon — which I have described elsewhere — and in a short distance we reach the mouth of " Big Blackfoot river." Coming in from the east, it runs through a canon for some fifteen miles above its mouth, above which it opens out into a largo and beautiful valley, well timbered and watered, forming a good grazing region, and, most probably, farming also, but it has never been tried. Then, going up Hellgate canon f )rty miles, we emerge into the rolling grassy hills which reach twelve miles to the valley of Flint creek, a beautiful place, well calculated for grazing and farming. Thence up the Hellgate river, through much good farming land, bordered by rolling grassy country, twenty miles to the lower end of Deer Lodge valley, passing by " Gold creek," where are the first gold mines ever found and worked in what is now " IMontana." These mines were discovered in the fol- lowing manner : About the year 1852, a French half-breed from Red river of the north, named Francois Finlay, but commonly known by the sobriquet of " Benetsee," who had been to California, began to " prospect" c a branch of the Hellgate, now known as Gold creek. He found small quantities of light float gold in the surface along this stream, but not in sufficient abundance to pay. This became noised about among the mountaineers ; and when Reese Anderson, my brotlier James, and I, w(>re delayed by sickness at the licad of Malad creek, on the Hu(ls[)etlis cnt-off, as we were on our way from Cali- f )rniii to the states in the summer of 1857, we saw some men who had passed " Benetsee's creek," as it was then called, in 1856, and they said they had got good pros- pects there, and as we had an inclination to see a little mountain life, we concluded to go out to that region, and winter, and look around a little. We accordingly win- tered on Big-Hole, just above the "Backbone," in com- pany with Robert Dempsey, Jake Meeks, and others ; and in the spring of 1858, wo went over to Deer Lodge and 8 MONTANA AS IT IS prospected a little on " Benctsee's creek ;" but not having any " grub" or tools to work with, we soon quit in disgiust, with- out having found anything that would pay, or done enough to enable us to form a reliable estimate of the richness of this vicinity. We then went back to the Emigrant road, and re- mained there trading with the emigrants over two years, very frequently talking of the probability of there being good mines in Deer Lodge, until in the fall of 1860, we moved out to the mouth of Stinking-Water river, intending to winter there, and go over and try our hick prospecting in the spring. But the Indians became insolent and began to kill our cat- tle, when we moved over, late in the fall, and settled down at the mouth of "Gohl creek," and began to prospect. We succeeded during the following summer in finding prospects that we considered very good, upon which we began to make preparations to take it out " big," and wrote to our brother Thomas, who was at " Pike's Peak," as Colorado was then called, to come out and join us, as we thought this a better country than the " Peak." How events have fulfilled this prediction will be sfjen hereafter. Thomas showed our letters to quite a number of his friends, and they became quite ex- cited over them, and in the spring of 1862 many of them started out to tind us, but became lost, and went to Old Fort Limhi, on Salmon river, and from there they scattered all over the country, a few of them reaching us about the first of July. We were then mining on Pioneer creek, a small fork of Gold creek, without nuiking more than a living, al- though some adjacent claims paid good wages. About, this time quite a number of people arrived who had come up the Missouri river, intending to go to the mines at Florence and Oro Fino ; but not liking the news from that region, when thiy arrived in Deer Lodge, a part of them went no farther, but scattered out and began to pros})ect, and most of them are still in Montana with a " pocket full of rock " and stout and robust as grizzly bears, although some of them are suffering from a severe attack of an epi- demic known as " quartz on the brain," which is now raging M MONTANA AS IT IS. 9 ^ f furiously all over Montana. It seldom proves fatal, however ; the victim Mississippi riv((r, from those of the MisBOuri. This basin extends in fact from tho Rocky moun- 12 MONTANA AS IT IS. tains to the eastern border of the territory, along its north end, a distance of near six hundred miles in length, by about one hundred and fifty in breadth, a small part of its northern edi2;e lying in the British jiossessions. The eastern portion of this vast basin is composed of clay table lands, or " mauvaise terres," but there is a large amount of good land along the streams. There are several s}mrs and bunches of mountains, as the "Bear's Paw," "Little Rocky mountains," " Three Buttcs," &c., scattered about in it. It drains to the east by the Missouri river, Milk river, Marias river, Teton river, Sun river, and Dearborn, the first three putting into the Missouri below Fort Benton, and the last two a short distance above the Great fills. The western portion of this basin is but little broken up by mountains, yet only about one third of its surface" is available for farming, consisting of a strip from ten to twenty miles in width and about one hundred and fifty long, running along the east foot of the Rocky mountains, whieli afford a good sujjply of timber, This strip is clothed with buneh-grass, but as you leave the mountains and go down into the plains, tie country becomes a succession of clay terraces or table lands, more commonly known as "bad lands," which are sterile, with but a scanty growth of stunted grass. The streams have worn down through these table lands till they now run in canons several hundred feet below the surface of the surrounding country, and in travi'lling through this basin you are not aware that you are a])proach- ing a stream till you lind yourself standing on the brink of one of these canons and see the stream hinidn ds of feet below you, Uicandering through the narrow bottoms that border it. These bottoms, though narrow, are generally fertile and will supplied with grass ; timber, however, is not very jdenty^ what there is being principally cottonwood. It is possible that a large portion of thesti table lands may be rendered i)ro- ductive by a well-directed system of irrigation. The want of timber may also b(( supj)lied by coal, of which I have reason to believe there are larg(i dei)osits in this basin. There bus not been any discoveries that would pay, of pre- s? MONTANA AS IT IS. 13 I cious minerals in this basin as yet, but there has only been a small amount of superficial prospecting clone. This has es- tablished the fact that gold exists in unknown quantities in the canons and streams that put into this basin from the Rocky mountains. 1 am, however, of the opinion that when this region is thoroughly prospected it will be found equally as rich as its sister basins. Next comes the " Western Central basin," drained to the east by the Jefferson fork of the Missouri and its tributaries, of which the following are the principal : Big-Holo river, which comes in from the northeast, and which, I think, affords more than the Beaverhead river, which has generally been consid- ered the main stream, and properly so, because ir runs through the centre of the basin, and drains a much larger extent of country than the Big-Hole, which has along its course, and in a huge semicircle around its head, some of the loftiest peaks in this part of the Rocky mountains, and on which the snow falls to a great (l('])th, and as it melts in the spring and sununer, causes the Big-IIole, which has a much steeper grade than the Beaverhead, to become a rushing torrent of formidable dimensions. The Big-Hole and the Beaverhead unite near the easti^'n v.i\*^Q. of the basin, and form the Jefferson fork of the Missouri, whicli runs through a canon into the " Eastern Central basin," where it makes a junction at t|je " Three forks," with the Matlistm and Gal- latin rivers. Rattlesnake cn^ek ct)meH in from the northwest as does Williams' creek, a few miles farther west. Horse Prairie creek, which is the headwater of the Beaverhead, comes in from the wi>s<. Red Rock creek comes in from the south. Black-Tailed Dcun* creek from the southeast, and Stinking- Water river from the southeast. These streams drain this basin, which lies much in the sha]>e of a spread fan, being about one hundred and fifty miles wide by one hundred long. There hav(! been no mines disovcred on the Big-Mole, ex- cept a small i)atch at its head, of which I have spoken else- where. 14 MONTANA AS IT IS. I lil Eattlesnako creek is crossed in the canon above its valley, by numerous ledges of the richest silver quartz that has yet been discovered in Montana, some of them assaying as high as five thousand dollars to the tun of rock. These ledges are generally ct)mi)osed of argentiferous galena, or lead ore, containing a large amount of silver. Who shall predict the future of this place ! The wealth of the Rothschilds is as nothing compared to the riches which lie concealed in the bowels of the llattlesnake hills, awaiting the coming of the enchanters with their wands (in the shape of capitalists with bushels of greenbaeks), to bring forth these treasures that have lain hid since the sun first arose and cas*: its light on a viigin world. And tiiis reminds me (as Father Abraham would say) that this must have been a jolly old workl about the time that it was covered with glaciers (whose traces aro still plainly visible all through the Rocky mountains) so deep that only the tops of the lol'liest mountains rose above this universal sea of ice. I think the night winds must have been un[!h'asantly cool about that time. Tiie round smooth bnulders and gravel commonly known as the '' wash," that are always found in placer diggings, have evidently l)(>en caused by the grinding, [)ulveiizing action of these glaciers, the country having undergone great changes of upheaval and dejjression since that time, and in gold- bearing localities the action of the elements during countless ages has collei-ted tlu^ gold that was ground out the ledges and rocks by the action of the glaciers, into the ravines, creeks, and rivers of the vicinity. yixt(x:n miles west of Ruttlesnake comes in Willard's creek. Both these streams head in " liald mountain," about (ifteeu miles north of Bannaek City. This huge mi»untaiu is seam- ed witii ledges of very rich gold and silver bearing (^uartz. I^othing has heen ('one, as yet, toward opening these leads, want, ol' capital being the cause. ]iannaclc City stands at the upper end of the canon on Willard's creek, where it opens out into a small valley. tlj f. hi H bi MONTANA AS IT IS. 15 valley, lias yet as liigli 1 ledges >ad ore, diet the Is is as , in the vt of the sts with :es that light on ibrahain id about 'aees are ains) so se above list have y known igs, have action of changes in gold- ;30untle8S lie ledges s, creeks, d's creek, lit (if teen L is seaiii- g ([uartz. .'se leads, cafion on ill valley. The mines extend down the creek seven or eight miles, and have paid " big'' but are now declining somewhat. In this canon are situated many leads of gold-bearing quartz, of exceeding richness, among which is the famous " Dacotah" lead which is now being worked with great success. There is also the Waddam load, the Calilbrnia lead, and many others that assay quite rich. In fact, few places in the world possess greater mineral wealth tliaii the vicinity of Bannack City. Passing by Horse Prairie, Red Eock, and Black-Tailed Deer creeks, each of which has a valley of considerable extent wliich is admiiably adapted for grazing and ])robably for fanning also, but on which no mines have as yet been discovered, we come to Stinking- Water river, which has a valk^y of considerable size, but only a portion of wliieh is fertile and well grassed ; but the spur of mountains that run down be- tween it and the Madison river, and whicli are over fifty miles long, running due north and south, are veiy rich. The first stream that comes out of these mountains into the valley of the Stinking-Water, is " Wisconsin gulch," so called because it was Hrst worked by a party from that state. This gulch has only been partially prospected, it being deej) to the bedrock, yet there has been found a considerai)li' extent of placer diggings, in and adjacent to it. A few miles farther up the valley comes out " Mill creek," so called l).M!au80 Gammell & Co. built a mill on it last year. There has been 110 ])lacer mines discovered on this creek, but along the base of the mountains in its vicinity is a large luunber of rich gold and silver bearing (juartz leads among whicli are tlio Ilothschihls lode, the Eclijiso lode, the Antelopi!, the iMoun- tain Queen, the Gihraltar, the Hawk-Eye, and many others thiit assay licli. This is tlu^ only place in this range where silver leads are found. Som(M)f them assay from one to two thousand dol- lars to th(^ ton of rock, and they are very easy of access Hero is also a thriving village, called " Bramlon," which bids fair to rival Virginia City. 16 MONTANA AS IT IS. r. '•i I t A few miles from Mill creek, comes out "Ram's-Horn gulcli," so called from the large number of mountain slieep- horns lying along it, it having once been a resort for them. This stream, like Mill creek, possesses no placer diggings, but it has not been thoroughly prospected. It has, however, many rich leads of gold-bearing quartz, amor.g which is the famous " Monitor," which is very rich. A little farther up the valley, comes out " Bivens gulch" — named alter the man who first " struck it" — in this creek, which has paid, and is still paying, remarkably well in " coarse gold." Pieces have been taken out of this gulch weighing as high as three hundred and twenty dollars. A short distance fartlier along the base of the mountain, and we come to "Harris gulcli," named liter its discoverer, as nsnal, and which has paid well in i)laces, in beautiful coarse gold, but this gulch is what is called " spotted," in mining parlance ; that is, the gold is scattered about in irn^gular spots. Only a small portion of this gulcli has i)aid wtll. There is another ravine, called " California gulch," which comes into liiirris gulch on the south, before it enters the valley of Stinking- Water. This gnlch is similar to llarris'e, except that it is still more " spotted," and has not paid so well. A few miles farther south, comes out the fanious " Alder creek" — t'le derivation of which name I have given elsewhere — on the banks of which, a few miles above the first canon, where it opens out into a kind of basin, are situated the cities of " Virginia," " Central," and " Nevada," which are fast being merged into one, with a population of about ten thousand, and rapidly increasing. Alder creek is incredibly rich, from its head down to near where it enters the valley of the Stinking- Water, a dislance of aV)out eighteen miles. Near its head, pieces have been found weighing from titty to as high as seven hundred and twtween the valleys of the mountains and the prairies of the Western states. Corn, beans, pumpkins, &c., grow finely in it. This basin contains eight principal valleys, as follows : the main valley of the Yellowstone, of Shield's river, of the Rosebud, of Clark's fork, of Pryor's fork, of the Big-Horn river, of Tongue river, and of Powder river, and many smaller ones. The Yellowstone river will be navigable for light-draught steamers nearly to the western edge of the basin, or almost to the centre of Montana, and it is by this river that she will ere long receive all of her supplies that come from the states, and it will in time carry down our geld and silver to the poor devils who are so unfortunate as to live in the Mississippi i L# MONTANA AS IT IS. 19 nd its hun- But at val- y dan- already ry, and m find- it ap- ?y have ken up Jacobs ch pros- jry rich, mtity of hasin of minerals of .coal, tubers of between Western it. follows : ?r, of the 3ig-Horn nd many valley, and who don't own any "feet" in any rich silver leads, and are ignorant of the joys of going out poor in the morning, in search of " leads," and coming back rich in the evening (in imagination). O "Chateaux en Espagno !" thou art the sole joy and solac(* of many weary wanderers among the mountains. Thus ends this slight description of " The country of the mountains," wliich, it will be seen, contains five large basins, which enclose within their limits thirty valleys, each of which is as large as three or four German principali- ties, besides many smaller ones not much larger than Rhode Island or Dehrware. This includes the valley of " Prickly Pear creek," so called because there are two or three " prickly pears" growing in it, and which I came near forgetting. This would have been an unpardonable omission, as it disputes the palm of rich leads with Deer Lodge, It is woU (Established that tlie main chain of the Rocky mountains from the head of Deer Lodge, sixty miles north- east to the head of Prickly Pear creek, contains more rich gold and silver quartz leads tlian are to be found in the same extent of country in any other part of the world. These two localities are formidable rivals to that modem impersonation of the " El Dorado " of the old Spanish ad- venturers, " yclept" Rattlesnake creek. So mote it be. t-draught or almost ,t she will he states, the poor lississippi i RULES FOR PRONUNCIATION. t i Give all the letters their common English sound. Be careful to emrhasize the syllable that has the accent mark (thus attached to it, and if two syllables in the same word should have the accent, emphasize them both about alike. The different sounds of the letter a are noted when they occur. Be very careful not to give the letters foreign sounds, such as calling i as though it were written e, and c as though it were a, &c. Pronounce the words as though they were Englinh, and not as if they were Dutch or French, and any Snake Indian will readily understand you. DICTIONARY OF THE SNAKE INDIAN LANGUAGE, unci. , the accent bles in the them both L when they ign sounds, e as though li they were ich, and any ENGUSH. SNAKE INDIAN. Antelope (in general) Quar'-ree. Antelope (buck) Wanty. Antelope (doe) Qnar'-ree em-bee'-ab. Axe llo'-han (Note 1). All O'-yoke, or, o'-yeut. Awl Wee'-yoh. Arm 15oor'-rali. Aunt (on the lather's side) Eni-bah'-hah. Aiuit (on the mother's side) Nag'-a hy em-bee'-ah. Afraid Tu'-e-eu, or, mer-ree'-yeu. American Sod-yah'-pe (Note 2). Across, or on the other side O'-nmig-wa, or, o'-nmik. Awkward Maw'-wot (Note 3). Arrow Ilo'-pog-gau. Arrow-case Ho' coon-ah. Akeady Push, or, him'-besh. Ashamed Nasli'-u-i. All gone Ma-git'-soo-mat, or, cay '-wot. Amorous Ny'-sa-swaut, or, ny'-a-shap. Ants An'-ning-gwuts. Ant eggs An'-ne-no'-yo (Note 4). Ask, or asking Mar-ib'-bin, or, iu-dib'-bin. Alive Kwidge'-o-ni. Again A-tee'-is. Also A-tee'-is. Always, or all the time An'-deps. Ashes Koot'-scep. Apr-'i Do'-pur-rah. Auti..,ui Yeb'-ban. Arise Yates'. (f 22 MONTANA AS IT IS, EXGUSn. SNAKE INDIAN. Awake, or awaking Tib'-boo-e, or, tib'-boo-i'-cant. Angry To'-lio-buck. Antolnpc skill Qnar'-ree eni-buh'. Ariai)ahoe Indian Share'-a tick'-ah. A tort or largo lioiisc (of woofl) Pee'-ah woo'-ban car'-ne. A I'ort or large house (of stone) I'ee'-ah tiin'-pa cai'-no. An Amcriean book Soo-yah'-i>e tib'-op. An apple Pce'-ah pug'-uni-be. At present E'-git-alia. All the lodges U'-yeut-a ear'-ne. All the horses O'-yeut-a pung'-go. All my cattle O'-yent-a nec'-ali quich'-cm pong'-go. All real friends O'-vcut til)'-iteli a hanee. Buffalo (in general) Quiteh, or, coo-itch' (Note 5). Buffalo robe Quitch'-ew. Bufi'alo overshoes Pur'-namp. ButValo niilteiis Pur niush'-a-tuc-co. Buffalo overcoat Pur'-quash'-ow. Ihilfalo li'ggings Pur' eoae. BuiValo bull Quich' no'-va-gant. Bulfalo cow '^uich' eiu-bee'-ab. Breeches, or pants Cose, or, pce'-mog-guts. Black To'-ho-bit. Blue T'-be-ah-wit. Brown Toop'-shu-but. Beard Eni-nio'-ts. Bring Mi-yaw', or, itii-yack'. B'ing some wood Cook'-ate. Bring some water I'ah'-dzi-yah'-conk. Big Pee'-up. Boy Toon'-yip. Blanket Err'h, or, wan'-iiop. Bear (in general) Wood'-ali (No. G). Bear (he) ^,c...« Wood'-ah ung-goo'-mah. Bear (she) Wood'-ah em-bee'-ab. Bear (Idiiek) To' wood'-ah. Bt;ar (brown) Toop'-Rhu-beet wood'-ah. Bear (cinnamon) T"ff'-gii wood'-ah. Bear (grizzly) Aw-ha-pit wood'-ha. Bear (white) To'-sa wood'-ah. Bearakiu Wood'-ah cm-buh'. B];j Bc| Be] Ik 13lJ ant. >ni pong'-go. te 5). h. MONTANAASITIS. 23 ENOI-ISn. SNAKE INDIAN. Bear track Wood'-ah en-iiani])'. Bear 8 foot Wood'-ah iiaiiip. Bear meat Wood'-ah un-dook'. Bear river (U. T.) Qucc' o'-gwa. Beaver Har'-ne. Beaver skin llariie em-buh'. Beaver meat Ilar'-ne un-dook'. Beaver castor Ilar'-iie en-dali'. Beaver trap ILui'-c-wun. Beaver lodf^e ITar'-)ie en car'-ne. Bag, or Hack Mog'-giits. Bridle Timp'-a-san'-o-gah. Bed Cap. Bed curtains Cap' it-zi'-n-ung-gah. By-and-by I'ee'-nnnk, or, pee'-nung-ga. Bay (color) Ing'-ga-bit. Bay horse Ing'-ga co'-ali. Bay mare Ing'-ga pec'-ah. Brow7i liorHc Toop'-shu co'-ah. Brown n)are Toop'-shu pee'-ah. Black horse To' co'-ah. Black mare To' pee'-ah. Blue hoirfc I'-be-we co'-ah. Blue mare I'-be-we pee'-ah. Bri)ther (elder) Ein-baw'-be. Brother (younger) In-tahm'-ma. Blackl'o'it Indian I'ar'-keeh. Blackfoot country Par'-keeh shock'-up. Blackfoot horses I'ar'-keeh pong'-go. Blackfoot Avnmen Par'-keeh wipe. Black Butte, at the mouth of Lewis > Wock -way (Note 7). fork of Hnake river (I. T.) \ ^ ^ ' Black's fork of Oreon river (U. T,),. . Wong'-gog-vvay (Nulo 8). Beaverhead river, or JeflVrson fork ) of Missouri river [ H'^''-"^ cm-bamp' o'-gwa (Note 9). Beaverhead valley Ilar'-no em-bamp'. Beaverhead reck ITar'-ne em-bamp'. Blacksmith Wee'-in-dap'-pi (Note 10). Blackbird Pog'-gan-zook. Black-Tailed deer Do'-te-yah. Bad Ka'-dzont. Badger Hone'. Burn Wy'-yap. "1 24 MONTANA AS IT IS, ENGLISH. SNAKE INDIAN. Burnt Wy'-yalit. Bruko, or broken Co'-pop. Boil, oi boiling No'-ya-piint. Lolling spring Pah'.gwoe-yo-wah. Boiled meat Nas-salip'. Big-IIole river See'-ninip o'-gwa (Not« li). Blaek-Tailod-Deer creek l)o'-te-yah o'-gwa. Behind Nah'-viHh-i. Both Nani'-i-cnt. liuw (weapon) Ho'-itc. I?ot Mar-ib'-bah, or, tib'-ah. Buek (of aninuiJB) Ung-gooh', or, iing-goo'-mah. Bull (doniestic) No'-ya-gant a (luicb'-em piing'-go. Brotlier-in-law lii-day'-to. Bald, or bald-headed Panip'-ey-wot. Bald-eagle PaHs'-ee-ah. Hald-faoed To'-sa co-ba-gant. Blind Poo'-e-wot. Baeoii. or any kind of hog meat KiihIkiw' un-et. Crane (sand-hiiij Qiian'-dah. Catch Maiid-zi'. Come in Yike. Catamount, nr lyix Took'-a-bitch. Camns rah'-soe'-go (Note 17). Cut it Mad-ziik'-ah. Chief Tayg'-wan-ne. Crawfiah I'aij-ah toag'-go. Cloud Tom'-ni). Cloudy Ti)in'-U|i-oant. Corn riau -(!-l)it. Cornn)i,al llau-e-hit a nah'-tlo-sooh. Chin Ung-goo|t-er-ititH. Chock MaH-saw . Cruiijicr (to saddle) Nah-gwad-zau'-c-gah. Country or land Shock'-up. Choke-t'horricr, To'nam'-bo. Cricket McHh. (/hair ("ar'-dc-naw. Co(lar grovr Wat-tine, or Hairr-mar-riuo', (JottoTiwood grove Saw'diaw-rine. (Joffee Ca\v'-))ee. Coft'ce-miU (!a\v -pee (lzack'-(piecii. Charcoal Koo'-too-boo. Cough AW-nij). (!roam-coli)rf'd rn'-dani be(>t. CliipH Nit'-Hee-uj). Coinb your head Km bamp' ud-zoo'-to-yo, ((oyot(( Nag'-a-liy c'-zip. Cards Noo'-whih. (^hai ger (for gun) Dil -tce-ah. (Curlew Uoo-wcch' (Note 18). MONTANA AS IT IS 27 EXGLISn. SNAKE INDIAN. Chewing tobacco (the act of) Pawm'-o ma-gits-quitc. Cliew or (.'hewing Ma-gits'-qnite. (/urrants ( yollow) Aw'-ha-pug'-um-be. Currants (black) To' pug'-um-be. Currants (red) lug'-ga pug'-um-be. Call Eni-ba'-dze-conk. Candle U -ho cooii'-ah. CaTie (sDiall species) Ilo'-gap. C'dium Tin'-so-an'-e-caut (Note 19). Cloth (in general) Wan'-nop. (!at p„8s. Certain Tib'-itoh. ff^'t I'ong'-go eii-do'-ah. ^'•'■^'^1^' CJuieh'-etu pong'-go. ('loar (n'i il< Ma-hib'-ba, or, hib'-ba. Dnnik I'i'-a ine|)'. Dry creek (in general) I lo'-na-bit puh'-wol. Dollar roe-aHB'. Dry or dead eottunwood Paw'-a-bit a wipe. Dust llook'-ocmp. -m 28 MONTANA AS IT IS. ' I ENGLISH. SNAKE INDIAN. Deaf Ka niing'-a-tine, or, uung'-ga-wot (Note 23). Drowned Pahu'-do-ree'-arcant. , Dry (not wet) Pash'-np. Dry (thirsty) Hib'-ba-schwant. Doomed Ka-kwedge'-o-ni. Dance, or dancing Kik'-kaht. Dark (of the moon) Mee'-ah tee'-ayp. • Day Tab'-ba. Digger Indian Shosh'-o-co (Note 24). Dirt Shock'-up. Drawers (dotliing) Dook'-a-ni cose. Dried apples or peaclies Pah'-see'-go. Dish rag 0\v'-a-rt)to'-sec-mah. Deer meat (white-tailed) It-looke' un-dook'. Deer meat (black-fciiled) Dit'-te-yah un-dook'. Do yon uiulerstand me? Tm'-liow nee'-ah ma-nung'-gan. Don't you understand me ? Im' how ka' nee'-ah nia-n\uig-gan. Don't kill him, her, or it Ka' mow-vake'. Don't go Ka' myer'-ro. Don't scold Ka' maii-eet'-too-un. Doctor Po'-ho-gant. Dirty, or filtliy Teech'-ent. Drunkard An'-da' pi'-a-mep'. Do you talk the l::^nalie timgue well ?..Im '-how tsoutsho'-sho-ue ta'gwan. lED. Eat Tik'-kaht (a as in hat). Kar Kn-nunk', or, nung'-ga. Eye Em-boo'-ee. Elk Par'-re-aii. Enough Shu'-big-ali, or, Rhu'-big-un. Eiglit . Ny'-a wot'-se-wit. Eleven Seo'-man-o sim'-mitch man-doy'. Eigldeen Si'e'-maii-o ny'-.i-wot'-sc-wit man-y'. Eiglity Ny'-a wot'-se-wit see'-mau-o. Eagle (in general) Pce-ah queeu'-uh. Evening Yake. Entrails Mung-goy'. Eyebrows Ki-mp. Eyelashes Uoor'-as-se. Elbow Noe-goop'. MONTANA AS IT IS. 29 iiing'-garwot -gan. luig-gan. s ta' gwan. nil. iii-dfiy'. vit inan-(l(»y'. m-o. ENGLISH. SNAKE INDIAN. Every O'-ycut. Every day ... O'-yeiit a tab'-ba. Every night O'-yout a toog'-guii. Early in tlie morning E'-gih nah'-bo-na. Edge or side Uiig-gini'-mok. Enemy Waw'-haw. Ear-rings Nniig'-ga sini'-nia. Elk-sik share'-rih. Kill this mati Mow-vake' sickch tur'-nup. Xj Lame (in fore foot) Mot'-whet. Lame (in Innd foot) Peet'-whet. Lake Pah' car-did. Lazy Toe'-o-nab. Langh Yan'-eot. Laughing Yan'-e-cunt. Lay it down Mail-zat'-tig. I^b Tini-i'-yah (Note 38). Largo Poe'-up, or, Pce'-h. Large beails Pee'-ah t«um'-mo. Lead (mineral) Nah'-bok, or, nab'-a-gan. Lead (with a rope, &e.) Ad-zung'-gan. Leg Aiom. Leggings Tchee'-woor-ah-raali, or, coso. Level Say'-pig-ant. Let it alone, or let it be Mow-bweck', or, mow-bwe'-eck. Let them go, or let them alone Mah'-re-bwet'-tike. Lie (falsehood) Ish'-shump. Lie (to recline) Ilab-ba. Lie down Hab'-ba, or, Ilab'-bate. Like Ac-cum'-ini-gati. Little Tee-ditch. Light (not dark) Nali'-bo-ick-unt. Light (not heavy) Ka puf-tnnt. Lights, or lungs O-eawm'. Liver 0-nim'. Lid, or cover Nam'-i-rim-ah. Look Mah-b(me'. Look for it Mow-wake'. Look sharp or closely Tzont' mah-bone'. MONTANA AS IT IS. 35 KV. 3te'-Bah. '-rih. -nup. ;an. , or, coBO. w-bwe'-eck. itc. ENGIJ8H. SNAKE INDIAN. Looking-glaes Nah'-bo-na. Long (ill length) Cu'-barront. Long time ago Saw'-vish. Lodge (of skint!) Pick'-ah car'-ne. Lodge (of cloth) Wan'-no car'-no. Lodge pole Wan'-dan. Louse PusB'-sy. Lousy Puss'-e-ah-gant Lover (of either sex) Tee'-oo-dah. Lonesome Teot'-han-ish-wunt. I>oad (a gun, for instance) Njili'-ree-bah. Mad, or angry To'-ho-buck. Magpie Quee'-dow-woy. Make Ma-hon'. Man Tur'-nup. Mare Pung'-go em-beo'-ab. Make haste Nam'-i-shaw. Make the bed Sho -ne. Many Shaw'-ut. Manyfold (of paiuich) Sag'-ga-bee (Note 39). Matches Ho' kosh'-awb (Note 40). Maybe No-hog'-a-ny. Make a fire Cut-taw. Marrow-gut Um-bah'-bung-go'-he. Maggot Me Nee'-ah. Meat Un--berry Itch'-c-ab i>ug'-nni-be. Rump Mani-bec'-wosli. Rvui Nook, or, iiook'-ato. w ! 1 40 MONTANA AS IT IS. ENOI.ISH. SNAKE INDIAN. Run qtiick Nam'-i-iiook. Running fast Ket'-tan-ook-yeut. Rock Tii.ip'-a. Rosin Son'-up. Rotten Pish'-ip. Rotten wood Wut'-si-namp. @ Snake Indian Sho'-sho-ne (Note 53). Snake (garter and common) Pah'-«ee-noo'-oe. Snako (rattle) Toag-go (Note 50). Snake river (I. T.) Po-ho-gwa (Note 58). Sack Mog -guts. Saddle (i iding) Nare'-i-noh. Saddle (i ack) Nore'-ah narc'-i-noh. Sage bn.sh Po'-ho-bit. Sage c)iicken .Iloo'-c-jan (Note 54). S;dt O-nah-bit. Salt river (I. T.) O'-nah-bit-a pah, or, to'-sa car'-nc (55). Salmon Ag'-gi. Salmon river (I. T.) Ag'-gi pah (Note 57). S;ind pi|Hr Palin'-do-weeh. SaleratiiH Tid'-o-mi-u-linh. Sand Pah' see-wum -be. Saddle-blanket Nmi'-flha-maw. See Muh-bo'-ne. Seven Tots'-wit. Seventeen 8ee'-man-o tots'-wit man-doy'. Seventy Tots'-wit sce'-man-o. Service ImihIi Tee'-ab-be. Service berry Tie'Kun[i (Note 56). Sew Na/.-Kack'-kin. Sewing Nrt/,-/.ack'-kin-\ip. Soe'-go iS<'e'-go. Six Nah-bite. Sixteen See'-inan -o nah'-bite maii-tloy'. Sixty 'I'otP'-wit Hoe'-inan-o. Sisb-r (cldiri Kni-bad'-zih. Sirtter (younger) Nam'-mih. SiHter-in-law Em-bahm'-bo-up. Si(, or sit down ('ar'-
  • - (long-bilk-d) Coo-weeh'. Smith's fork of Bear river (U. T.). . .Tis-Sf-ag-ga-be o'-gwa. SmaU TeeHlitch. Son EiiHlo'-ah. Son-ill-law Moon'-up. Soap . .Tig-goo-c-cheh. l^our See-goo gnm'-niiu. «,,ft ^. .. .Ka' ciit-tuh. Spotted Aslr-er-ab-ba. Sorrel color AW-ha-pit. Sorrel horse (in general) .\\v -ha co-ah Sorrel mare (in general) Aw -ha pee -ah. Spotted hor (olaek) To' ash-or-ab-ba. Sjjotted marc ■, ) Ti .' aHh-er-ab-ba. Spotted horse (b. ) TiM.p'-sliu ash'-er-iib-ba. Spotted mare (brown) Toop -slm ash-er-ab-ba. Spotte(] horse (bay) Ing'-ga ash'-e'r-alt-ba. Sjjottod mare (hay) Ing -ga ash-or-ab-ba. Spotttnl liorse (sorrel) Aw'-ha ash'-er-ab-ba. S|)otteil mare (sorn 1) Aw -ha ash-er-ab-ba, Spill, or spilt Weot -tee-yah. S])ring (of the year) Tam'-mnn-ne. Spring (of water, "eold ") Pah' di/.-o'-pa. Spurs 'lid -am-ing-gwil-ka. Spider Am'-nii-HoitB. Spanianl To -yah ti'-vo, S|)ade Tid'-/o-no' wall. Spo/m Queeii-ec Spitlli' I'lwlon -Bcep. Siniirrel (small brown ones in pines). Wotig-^o-rats. Sjuirril (grey, lives in ground) Chii). or, cheep. Sijuirrel (I'hip-monk) Wu-it-see. Steal Mar-tid'-it!k. Stealing Mar-tid-iek. StoliMi Tid'-iek-up. Stay (ar'-did. Stink or stinking I'ish'-m'-nin. Stirrup Nah -rah-tig'-ga. Stone Timp', or, tim|i'-ut. Stand Win-an. Stand np Win'mn. Stand aside Man'-unk a win'-4U\. Htop Keah'. MONTANA AS IT IS. 43 ENGLISU. SNAKE INDIAN. String Pick-up. Starve or starving Cut-tuh pow'-er-ee-a-cant. Steel trap Haii'-o-wun. Steelyards Toof-sy-yah. Storm or stormy Wecp'-iint. Strike Mow /ut'-tig, or, raar-o'-pi. Striped Nah'-bore. Star or sturs Tad'-ze-nmu-bo. Stomach Nin-ap. String tlu'in togctlior Mah-bu-sah. Stove Wco'-iiah cut-taw. Strawberry li'g'-K'^ mag -in-up. Strong Nare'-c-eut. Step-motlicr Nag'-a-hy em-bco-ah. Stinking- Water river Pah' Banr-iua-riiio. Sun Tab -ba. Sunshine Tab'-ba-slio'-i-caiit. Sunrise Tab'ba toy. Sunset 'I'ab'-ba yako. Sunday I'ee'Hk tab-l>a (Note GO). Sugar l\'c'-nah. Supeniaturul I'o-lio-gaut. Sure Tib -hitch. Swan Poii-(U) -sah. Sweet , I'ee-iiah giiMi'-niiu. Sweet-Wat, T riviT I'ce -nali pub. Sword I'(t\v-\v(ik(>'. Swim I'air liab -ba. Swimming I'ah' hub-bin. Sway-baeketl Nahn'-e-kee. Swallow (liird) Pah' soc-go eni-bei''-iiah Sweetbreads (in jiiiuials). . , , , . .... EM-tuk-o-miiits. Talk Ta-gwftii. Tiill , Cu-bai-oiit. Take it lilV (u htoking for? Ilin im a mow'-wako. Wiien Him'-ba. Wheat Wain tick'-up, or, son'-a tick'-up. Whet-fitono Tim'-mah-gim-mah. White To'-Ha-bit. White man Soo-yah'-pe. WhiUi woman Soo-yah'-po wipe. W( w w w w Ye Y« MONTANA AS IT IS 47 DIAN. uh. BO. 70). ih'-gwoot-«hip. ito. li-gan. jr'-ro. fcr'-ro. yer'-ro. lak. t^ako. r, Boii'-a tick'-up. ah. ENGLISH. SNAKE INDIAN. Whitc-tiiilcd deer [t-soo'-kc. White horse To'-sah. White mare To'sah pcc'-ah. Whip Nit'-tig-wy. Whirlwhid Woo'-e-roy-beets. Whistling Co'-.sha-tiu'-a-quiii. Why, or wliat for? ilini-hant. Whippoorwill Wy-ya-bo. Wife (ill general) Ung-gwih'. Wind Nce'-ite. Wild, or shy Nog'-gcr-bito. Winter Tom'-inaw. Windpipe Woy -yor-onk. Wing Ung-guss'. Wings of the lodge Natl'-zc-pur'-rah. Wildcat Took'-a-bitch. Wild sage Po'-ho-bit. Wild currants Aw -ha i)ug'-um-be. Willows Sa'-a-bit. Wife (first one) Pce'-a-gwih. Wife (second one) Nan'-ing-gwih. Wink Wut-tat-zong'-geet Window Nah'-bo-na. Willard's creek Pish'-ah tim'-mo-dzah (Note 71). Willow blossoms Poe'-to-rah-hak-iuit, Will you go ? Im how ? rnyer -ro. Will you go there ? Im how look-sha-myer'-ro. Will you come ? Im how kim'-maht. Window-curtains Nah'-bo-na it-zi'-u-ung-gah. Wood (in general) Hope. Wood (to make a fu'c) Coon'-ah. Wood-tick Mee'-tah. WoodpcHiker Woo'-ban dut-tur-ag'-ga. Wolf Ee'-zip-ah, or, ee'-zip. Wolverine Waugh'-iio. Wooden bucket VVo'-by week'-to-wa. Wrestling Nah-gwooh'-uut. Wrong Ka'-dzont. Tes Hah, or, o'-se. Year Tom'-maw. Yellow Aw'-ha-pit, or, un'-dam-bcet. .•!! f:f si I f I I 48 MONTANA AS IT IS. ENGLISH. SNAKE INDIAN. Yellow head Un'-dam pam'-pey. Yellow horse Aw'-ha co'-ah. Yellow man Aw'-ha pee'-ah. Yellow sage See -bap. Yellowhainmer, or flicker An'-ning-gwee-kwee. Yellow-pine tree Ing-ga-quin-e-gah. Yelling WaW-unt. Yeast powders Tid'-o-ini-u-hali. Young man Too-e-bit-sa. Young woman Ni'-va. Yonder Ock. You Tin. Yourself Im, or, im'-iu-tag-gab. You stay here Im sick-sha car'-ra. You talk bad Iin ka dzont ta'-gwan. Yon sooMi'd mc Im uee'-ah nan-eet'-too-un. You arc joking Im ka tib'-a ta'-gwan. Yom* cliiM (male) Im en-do '-ah. Your child (t'emalo) Im em-ba -dah. Your horse is sick Im pung'-go nit'-sick. Your dog is good Im share -rih dzont. Your knife don't cut Im weet ka-gim'-mo-gaut ^ '. .'- I! mi m til ini ta] mi EXPLANATORY XOTES. 'im Note 1, page 21 : " Ho'-ha%''— This is evidently a corrup- tion of the words "Hope ma-hoii'," which mean the "wood- cutler,"' or an instrument to cut or fashion things of Avood, Note 2, page 21 : " Soo-yaV-pe."— This name is applied to all Americans by almost all the Rocky Mountain and Great l^ashi Indians. I have never been able to discover the meaning of the word, or why they call us by it. Note 3, page 21 : " Maw^-wot" — means " ro hands," and is applied to any awkwardness or unskilfulncss in doing any- thing, just as we use the word " awkward." Note 4, page 21: " An'-ne-no-yo" — means "ant-eggs." These tire eaten by all the Great Basin Indians, and by some few of mountain ones. They build a fire on the ant-hill, which soon kills all the ants and cooks the eggs, which arc then (lug out, separateil from the rubbish and eaten with great gusto. Note 5, page 22 : " Quitch." — These animals were once very numerous at some very remote period, all over the western slop(~s of tlu> Rocky mountains and in the eastern part of the " Great basin," as their bones, which are still very plenty in many localities, testify. The bones of *hese animals resist the action of the (>lements for an almost incredible l(>ngth of time. The skulls, in particular, are of an enormov.s thickness in proportion to their size, and all the rest of their bones par- take in some degree of this peculiarity. According to the Indian traditions, many of these bones hiive been lying on the surface of the ground for over ono hundred years, and they are still in a good state of prescrva- '«• 50 M O N T A N A A S I T I S . It I' ti' t ! J.i '1 I 'til ' if. Hi •-" " ■1 ..I: :* : )! , -:!. I. I 5 I tion. I litiA'c found it iiiii^ossihle to ascertain tlio exact peri- od of their decline in this vast ri'gion, but it is very reuiotf. I am inclined to think (liat it Avas caused either hy a succes- sion of very severe Avint(.'rs, or by some disi'ase among them. Tliere is still in the rec<'sscs of the mountains a lew is( dated bands of mountain butf ilo, which ditfer slij^htly from the buf- falo e^f tlie plains. They are generally a trifle smaller, Avitli iimr, silkier robes than the ftliers. They are more active, and much shyer, and more dilticuit to get a shot at. They live among densely-timbered, almost inaccessible mountains, and in their habits generally they are very similar to the moose. I think that all of those that once lived on the west- ern slo[»c, were oi the mountain kind. At the i)rcsent rate at which this noble game is beiiii; ''murdered," they will be (Extinct in lifty years. All whitt men passing through the buffal) country, slaughter them in a manner that is perfectly shameful, often shooting down hundreds of them and leaving theni^ hide and all, to rot on the plains. The Indians, also, incited thereto by the fur companies, kill aunually hundreds of thousand;- ::iore than they want for their own food and raiment, for the purjjose of getting tin robes to trade to the whites. It seisms to be the destiny ol the buffalo as well as of the Indians, to become extinct. 1 see 'H) way to stop the wholesale nuuder of this noblest garni' in America (I mean the buftalo, not the Indians). I wish it could be done. Note G, page 22 : '' Wood'-ah." — These animals appear to be of several diilerent kinds among the Kocky mountains, and while they are very numerous in some localities, in others they are quite scarce. Lewis and Clarke, in 1805, found them very numerous and ferocious all along the Missouri river, from the mouth of the Yellowstone to the Gates of the Mountains, they lrc(iuently attacking and chasing the men without any provouatiou. They had many very narrow escapes from them. in MONTANA AS IT IS. 51 oxiict pen- /ery rtUK^to. |jy a siicces- nioiig tlieiii. iV'W isdliited oiu the bul- niiilkr, with niovo active, )t at. They mountains, niUir to th' on the weht- nie is he'nv^ 1. All whitr hter them in ootin;:? do-\vi! all, to rot OP. r companies, liey want for f getting till' lie destiny el e extinct. I noblest ganu' ?). I wish ii uils ai»pcar to y mountains, ties, in others ninierons and mouth of the ey freciuentlv provocation. Thoy were particularly numerous and dangerous about the Great falls and mouth of Sun river. They are not so plenty or so savage in those places now as they were in those days. Above the Gates of the Mountains they were scarce, and they are so at this day. There is only a few black and cinnamon bears in the great " Plorseshoe basin" of the Jefferson and its branches, and in whicli lie Virginia and Bannack cities — while, on the head of the Marias and Milk iivers, and for a long distance north along the liocky mountains, they are quite plentiful and v(My savage. In the valley of the Yellowstone, they are very plenty and extremely ferocious, the white ou'S being the worst. I think that bears are more i)lenty and savage in the buffalo region than elsewhere. There is a very singular fact in the natural history of these animals. It is that no hunter that I ever heard of ever killed a she bear that was pregnant. This has never been ex lained that 1 am aware of Where they go during the time that they re Avith young, remains a mystery even in this enlightened age. NoTK 7, page 23: " Wock'-way" — means "The Cedar Butte." It stands isolated in the })hiinof Snake river valley, not far from the niouth of Lewis fork, about twelve or fifteen miles above where the road from G. S. L. City to Virginia City leaves Snake river. It is thinly covered'with scrubby cedars, and served the Indians for a landmark in their peregrinations in this vast valley, before the days of roads and wagons, and " Wo-Haws" and " God-Damns," as the Sioux call cattle and their drivers. Note 8, page 23 : " Wong'-gog-way" — means " Fir" or "Pine river," and it is so called by the Indians, because of the dense forests of fir timber covering the mountains where it takes its rise. These mountains are very lofty, and present a very ])icturesque appearance to the traveller from the South Pass to Fort Bridger. There are some beautiful little lakes lying embosomed among them, on the head branches of ■rw ■ i V i\ 52 MONTANA AS IT IS. Boacks fork, which is a bcaiitil'ul stream in and near the niount'iins, but before it readies Creen river, into v.laeh it empties, it passes th;-onn;h eloy hills or •' table lands," or what is calleil '' mesas" in Mexico and Arizona, and wliirh \\\ tliis reirion are eallt d " mauvaise terres" 1?r " bad lands" bv the French anu America:; mountaineers, wliieh (the " bad lands,"' not the nioantaineeVs) give it a yellow color, and miike it \ia- tit to use after a rain storm, it then being of about the con- sistency of thin soup, and not half so palatable. There is plenty of trout in the stream among and near the mountains, but iho "bad lands" play them out. Fort l>riilger is siruateil on this stream near wliere it caters the bad lands, and was a h)vely place in the days when " Old Jim Ih'idger" livid liere and was lord of all he surveyed, and some that he didn't survey. The finest and most numerous clusters of wild roses (a tlower that I have a jjartieular wi'ak- ness fur, bv the wav) that ever 1 saw were along the iiv(>r in the vicinity of Fort Bridger, when I passed there in duly, 1852, "'eu route" to I'aliforiiia. But iiov.-, alas, the Gmhs and Vandals uf civili/ation (i. e. the enii;;rant>i) have almost exterminated the beautiful groves of cottonwoods that onee fringtd its banks, and their vast annual swarms of stock have devoured the grass yi'ar after year till it has (i[uit growing out of sheer despair uf over reaching maturity, and they have browsid, trodden dov.ii, and almost worn ovit the fine growth of willows that once lineil the stream, leaving a dismal waste whcv uiiee a beauti- ful lan'Isea})e made gVid the heart of the wandering tra]iper and hunter. I'hiiigranfs in geu' ral have about as much ai)j)reeiatioii of the many and varied beaut ies ^4^ the vast jianorama that passes l»,'fore their eyes during their lung and weary journey towaids the Italy of America (as California should be called) as the herds ot stock they driv(>. The eireumstanei's, how- «ver, uii(l( r which most of them cross the plains are not con- ducive to a nice appreciation of either romantic ov desert scenery. They toil along, weary, footsore, and completely f* i i MONTANA AS IT IS. 63 worn out, half cliokcd -witii clouds of alkali dust, and vtrv "icd-oycd" fVeui the sami' a^gravatiu;^" c lUip^und, hoarse with bawliu'^- at their refractory cattle, oath individual ox of which suifcrs aliout twenty-five thousand di'aths from thirst, starvation, and ill-troalnieni, in ciossini!; the ])lains whose surface is whitened with the bones of tin ir uufortu- nati' ]ircdeccssorH. All these things are eminently calculated to work a man up to th" highest jtitcli of exasjieration, and make him look on Dame Nature with a jaundiced eye. On*.' thing is certain, a man who can cross the ]dains and drive an ox-team without s^vearing is fit to go to heaven riglit nfV. Innunierahle ])reachers have rashly tiied it, and tiiey all came out of the terrible ordeal completely " demoral- ized." 1 have seen sonic of them, soon after tluiir arrival at the mines, engaged in dealing " monte," '• thind)le-rig," '•ehuck- a-luck," and various other ganu s, besides taking a " snifter" wilii as good a grace as anybody. Alas, poor human nature ! Fori J^iiiiger is somewhat noted as the wint 'ing place during the winter of 1857-8 of the army seni out to Utah to subdue the inciiiient rebellion of the " soi-disant," " Jiat- ter-Day Saints." This army was comiu' nded by Colonel, al'leiv, ards (Jeueral A. S. Johnson, who joined the rebels on the bi(aking out of tlu> civil war in 18(11, and was killed at the battle of rittsburg Landing, or Sliiloh, in Tennessee. NoTH 1), page 23* " Har -ne (iii-bami» o-gwa"' — means •' Beaverhead river," and is known altogether among the trappers and mountaineers by that name. It was called Jef- ferson's fork of the Missouri river, by Lewis and (/larke's ex- pedition, who ascended it in boats in the sunmier of 1805, to tlie lower end of *' Jlorse jtrairie," near whei'e the town of Bannacic City now stands. It is laid down on nearly all maiis as Jelferson's river. It takis its name from a ]>oinl of rocks on the noitii bank, about fifteen miles above the ninulb 'il' Big Hole river, called by the Indians from time imniemnrial, "The Beaverhtfad," Ixn-ause viewed from a certain point i: 3'l li 1% 54 M O XT A .'^ A AS IT IS. ■I tllC itliof Stinlh are known to be ricii in gold, silver, cojipcn-, lead, quicksilver, and coal. In fact I am fully satisfied that tliis region is as rich in all the precious minerals as Washoe, Ari- zonia, or Colorado. The principal branches ]nitting into tlie Beaverhead river on the tMvtli side, are North Hiiui(h>r creek, Pipestone creek, White-T;ul(!d Deer creek. Big- Holt; river, Rattlesnake creek, and Willard's creek. The princi])al branches ])utting into the Bciiverliead river on the south side, aro South B(tnUler creek. Willow creek, St inking- \Vater river, Black-Tailed Deer creek, and Red Rock creek. There is a huge extent of available farniing land along thi^ Beaverhead and its branches, but there is a scarcity of tim- ber along the streams, and what there is is entirely a scrubby species of Cottonwood, calh d "bitter cnttonwood," wiiicli de- cays very rajjitlly. The timber on tin' mountains is not very plenty, and ennsists of scrultby fir, and a spe(;ies of white piuo, and a fe\\^ scrubby cedars. It is thought that tin' jMissmn-i river will l)e navigable f(»r light-draught steamboats as far as (lallatin City (a small vil- lage situated at the junction of the Three forks of the Mis- Bouri, and ir\ whith I doji't own any lots), provideil they make a portage of about twenty miles amnnd the (Jreat falls, a short distajice above Fort Benton, and remove a led"-e (-f Ix'd-rock and about twenty islands that ol)sfiuct tlu^ chamiel above the falls. NoTF, 10, pi\n;o23' "Weo'-in-dappi" — means 'Hhe iron- striker." t1 [^ MONTANA AS IT IS. 55 NoTK 11, pa,L!;e 24 : " See -iiiinp (/-gwa" — means " Buffalo Hump river," ami is so callcfl from t\w singular ridj^c of rocks known as the ''Backbone" among the whites, and eallinl " See'-nimp" or '' Buffalo Hump" among the Indians, which lies on the south bank of the river, about twelve miles above its mouth, and forms a notable landmark in the Beaverhead valley. It irf about a mile and a half in length, counting the portion on the north bank of the riv(n', which breaks through it near its northern end. It runs northeast and southwest, and rises from six hundri'd to on(> thousand feet above the plain, and is very abrupt and iirecijiitous on the side facing the southeast, while on the northwest .side it d( scends in a suc- cession of rocky ridges resembling waves of the sea. There are a few stunted cedars growing upon it. It was the fall and winter residence of nuiny bands of mountain slue]), before the advent of the whites, who have abt)ut finished them. In fact the game is rapidly becoming extinct, owing to the indiscrim- inate " murder" of it, in and out of season. It made me mad to see the shameful manner in which the people of every class hunted down and kilh il game of all kinds during the [last winter, when it was absolutidy too poor for aiiybody to cat. Kvery cabin had thri'o or foiu' deer and (Ik, &c., hangiisi;: on it, which toward s[)ringwere thrown away. Many thousands Wire killed and thrown away ; very few of the hii' even were saved. This river is from fifty to seventy-live yards wide at low water, and much larger when high. It has a very swift cur- rent, tind is obstructed by numerous islands, and wIk n high during the sjiring and summer, caused by the midting of the snow, which falls to a gn^at depth in the viciidty of its source, it is very dangerous crossing it. It is tolerably well tindnred with Cottonwood in the bottoms along its banks, but Ihent is very little firming land, \hc greater jxirt of it being rocky, sterile, and su])ject to overflow. The lir timber on the moun- tains along its course is scrubby until near its sinirce, where it runs through a large valley, called " Big-Hole prairie," a large portion of which is rnaishy, and it lies too high to bo t, !t'':*. . fi 56 MONTANA AS IT IS. iM availablo for tarmiiig- purixjsi's. It aff u'ds spU'ii.lid pasturago durinf tlio summer and tall, and al)i>unds in beaver and moose. There is also a lew mountain buiialo in the moun- tains which surround the valley like a vast ampitheatre. There has been sonic mining de e in the small streams at the head of this valley, but the diggings do not a})pear lo be extensive. Lewis and Clark«\ those bravo old i)ionecra, type of a class now fast becoming extinct, ascended this river (which they named \7isdoui river) for some distance in their boats in 1805, supposing it to be the main stream, but they found the current so very rapid and the channel so much obstructed by numerous islandsj that they turned back and went up the Beaverhead river. This river d( rives its nanit." of " r>ig-Hole," from a valley on the head of it, called "Le(Jrand Trou," by the old French mountaineers, and whieh literally translated is "The Big Hole." They fre([uently call a basin or valloy surrounded by high mountains by this name. dust above the 'VP)ackbone," and extending uj) the river eight oi- nine mik's, is one of th(! thret* places in this piA't of the Rocky mountains whert^ snow seldom \'u:h on the ground mor(>- thiin six or seven days at a time. We wintered at this ])laee in the winter of 1857, and cattle and horses that were very })()or in the fall, were in excellent oKhr in the spring. Christmas day was warm and ]ileasant enoU'j,h to render a coat umiecessary. (iame was abundant at that time, but it is getting veiy scarce now. One ]»eculiarily of the streams in the Beaverhead basin is, that there are very few lish in them. Trout in itarlieular are very scarce. (( ai Largo yellow ruttlesnak<'H, however, are very ])lenty in the basin," and in the vicinity of Boulder and Crow cwvU, where V seveial thus of these "animals" (as Lewis and Clarke call lliem, iiiiil mosfpiitoes, j'iid bugs, and toads, luul gei'se, ami chickens, ifec, in their journal which seems v(My strange). They will average about one to the square rod. cu th til be is its w; th CO T eil t<3 la jn- |at Il.e lass 111 th(3 tlio MONTANA AS IT IS. 57 Deer Lod^c, on the contmiy, enjoys u singular exemption from these ivptilcs, for during a residence in it of three years, I never saw one, or knew of one being killed in tlgin to snulf and examine their feet and clothes to iiiid out where the infernal .■-niell came from. When told that it was the wood, Ihey would hardly believe it. 58 MONTANA AS IT IS, Note 14, page 25 : " Ing'-ga hawmp." Those berries grow upon a very thorny scrubby kiml of tree, or rather large bush, growing in the Green river country, along the Hum- bohlt river, ami in many other places in the " Great basin," and along the streams in the principal valleys of the Rocky mountains. These berries are about half the size of a com- mon wild currant, and of a light red color, and they ripen in Augnst and September, but stay or, the bushes till the birJs pick them ol^', or till the middle of winter. They have an agreeable {piquant sour taste, which cannot be extinguished by putting four limes their bulk of sugar with thcni ; in- stead of the sugar sweetening them, they make the sugar sour. These bushes, if properly cultivated, would make good hedges. Note 15, page 25 : " Toiig'-go rik'-kah" — means " rattle- snake eaters," and they are so called, because they kill and eat every one of these reptiles that they can find. These birds are not very numerous in the Rocky mountains. Notk 1(), page 25 : " Yam'-])ah"— This is wliat the Snakes call the Comanches, of which they are either the ])arents or descendants, for the two languages are nearly the same, and they readily understand each other, and say that they were once one penpU — but I have neverljeen able to ascertain if they have any traditions among them in regard to how they be- came divided. Note 17, page 26 : " Pah'-see'-go" — means " water, or swamp seego," so called, because it grows in low swampy lands, while the " seego" proper grows on high lands. It is a bulbous root about the hv/a^. of a ])lum. It has a sweet gummy taste, and is very nutrilious. It forms an important item of food among the Indians from here to the Pacific ocean. Thtsy dig it, cook it in k.dlles, and dry it, when it be- comes very hard, and will k(;ep for years if ke[»t dry. It is also very good boiled when freshly dug. White men, Indians, Oregonians, and Hogs, are very fond of it. It, is very abundant in Oregon, and was an imiiortant li , m s. jrONTANA AS IT IS. 59 |ICS 11- >> Jky Ira- kn the live lied in- avticle of food to the first settlors. Hence, they derive their '' sobriquet" of "cainus catiM's/' " camus" being tlie name that the root is known by among the whites. Oregonians are, however, better known by the name of " Webfeet," This name originated in this way : It rains in Oregon about seven months in the year, and I am informed by several "reliable gentlemen," tliat through constant wad- ing in tlie water during that })eriod, "webs" finally grow be- tween the toes of the unfortunate inhabitants, who may be f irever after known by a habit tliey have of dismounting (the Oregonian never walks, if the distance exceeds one lumdred yards) fri»m their horses, and wading in every swamp along their route to moisten the webs between their toes to keep them from drying up and becoming painful. NoTK 18, page 26 : " Coo-weeli'." — The Indians evidently derive their name of the bird from its cry, which is very sim- ilar in sound. They are viry numerous in the spring and l^ summer in most of the valleys in the Rocky mountains. Some people have a beastly habit of shooting them, that I am " down on." NoTK 19, i)age 27 : " Tin'-so-an'-e-cant" — means a gorge or deiile, a place where mountains or hills approach each oth- er closely, leaving a narrow rugged way between. It is gen- erally used in connection with places on streams where the hills and mountains close in on the banks on each side ; but it is also used in connection with places where there is no water. The word "canon" is Spanish, and shouhl always be spelt as above. It is pronounced "kan'-yon," and most of Amci- caiiH have adopted the detestable habit of writing it "kan'- yon." When wo do ad(ipt a word from any other language for Avant of one as good in our own, we should always adopt it in its purity, and not manufacture some horrible distortion of it for common use. NoTR 20, page 27: "Tt-soo'-ke on car'-ne" — means the " White-Tailed Deer's Lodge," and is so called by Indians M 60 MONTANA AS IT IS. because the aforesaid deer wore very abundant of old in tlie brushy bottoms in its vicinity. The valk^y derives its name from this butte, \v)i.ii;'.i is a singular formation standing in the centre of the upj)er half of the vaUey. It is a sugarloaf mound, about tliirty ieet high and the same in diameter, around the base of which are innumerable springs, varying in temperature from ice cold to boiling hot. On top of the mound is a spring three feet in diameter and of considerable dej)th, which does not run over and is almost boiling hot. The mound, which forms a notable object in the valley, is com]iosed of a singular kind of stone resembling iron rust and of a iiighly crystalline structure. It has evidently been de- posited by the spring on its summit wiiicli has been raised to its present height in this matuier. It stands about two hun- dred yards north of Warm Spring creek, a branch oi' ''I)t>er Lodge creek," and is surrounded by a small marsh caused by the many si*rings. The marsh is elevated a few feet above the surrounding plain. In the neighborhood of the "Lodge" is the second place in the Eoeky mountains where snow never lies more than a few davs at a time. The valley of tin; Deer's Lodge will be available for forming purposes with the exception of the more delicate kinds of vegetables. There is very little timber in the valley, but the mountains surrounding it are well timbered. This valley is one of the most beautiful in the mountains, and it is famous for two things. One is that mountain trout are m(»re plenty in it than in any other i)lace of the same extent in the world. I do not know, however, but I had better say ivcre more plenty, for vast quantities of them have been caught in the last year, a large portion of which were allowed to spoil and were thrown away. If the k^gislatuie does not enact some laws in regard to game and lish, there will not be in a few years so much as a minnow or a deer left alive in all the ti'rritory. The trout will bite at almost any kind of bait at any time of yeai-, yet some " barharians" have used seines and dragged out these beautiful citizens of the brook by the wagon load. ?^ MONTANA AS IT I 61 Oh, fie ! for shame ! Every stream in the valley that is large enough for a trout to turn in, contains, to use an expression tliat I liavc not heard used since 1 was a boy, " lots and gobs of 'em." There is a lake on the head of Rock creek at the lower end of the valley, tliat literally swarms with these " purty little critturs," as I heard them calli;d the other day. This lake is a beautiful sheet of water, about a miln and a iialf lonui;, and half a mile wide, of an irregular oval shape. It lies at about two thousand feet above the vallev and has evidently been caused by an enormous landslide or avalanche, which choked up the canon on the creek and backed the wa- ter U]) till it formed the lake. This slide has a plateau at the lowc end and northwestern side of the lake of eighty or one hundred acres in extent, which is a perfect little paradise in summer, it is covered with a beautiful species of white pine without any under- brush, and ()(H-asioual openings in which stand beautiful clumps of wiUows, while all underfoot is carpeted with long silky bear grass. IinmiMliately after issuing from the lake, the creek forms a series of rapids and cascades over masses of huge granite bouhk'rs, making a descent in about a quarter of a mile of over fifteen liundred feet. There is another small lake on a small ereek that ]»uts into the Heilgate river on the north side about twenty-lhree miles behtw the village of "Cottonwood." The stream is quite small, not affording more than two or three sluice-heads of water, and as usual, the lake has been formed by a landslide, filling up the clnuuud just below where it forks and causing the water to back up one fork about f )ur hundred yards and up the other about live hundreil, thus forming an L-sha[)ed lake. It has probably not been more than a hundred years since tho lake was formed, for there are many stumps of trees standing in it and projecting from a few inches to several feet above the water, where tiie wind has broken them off many years after they perished by drowning. The water is not 1: G2 MONTANA AS IT IS. • \ :} more than forty or fifty feet deep in tlie deepest part, and much of it is not more than from ten to twelve feet dt-ep. The trout in this lake are very large and jilentj- of them ; some of them wcigli over four pounds, and they bite' ravenous- ly ; a friend of niini^ even going so far as to assert that they chased him into the pine woods and bit at his spm's as he was runnhig, but he is givt-n to joking. This lake lies embosomed among high mountains which are densely wooded, and are the home during the spring and sunmier, of a consideracle num- ber of deer, mountain shciep, and elk. In the winter there is nothing except mountain grouse which abound at all times, and are a great nuisance to the hunter, as they sit concealed in the dense fir branch^ s until you get immediately under them, when they buTit out with a tlijj-tlop-whir'r that scares you out of half a year's growth, and makes you think that half the treis in the woods are falling on you, and puts all the game within a quarter of a mile on its guard. Many of them have 1 slain for this same trick. The other thing that Di'er Lodge is famous for, is being a good grazing and stock-raising country. I think its natural advantages in this resj)ect can iu»t be excelled in the world. The valley, tlie hills, and the base, and in some places far up the sides o^ the mountains, are covered with a heavy growth of bunch-grass, and there are numerous creeks of ])ure ice cold water, coming out of the mountains on all sides, cattle and horses winter in this valley without any shelter or feed exc(>pt such as they get on the jtrairie, and they come out fat in the s])ring. I have seen cattle butchered in Deer Lodge in March, that had wintered in this manner that were abso- lutely too fat to eat, and the greater part of them were ren- dered out into tallow, 'fhis is i)artly owing to the great ele- vation, and the dryness of the atmosj)here, which causes all the animals to secrete more tallow than in other climates, and j)iiitly to the (extraordinary richness of the grass all through the K )cky mountains. The bunch-grass in this re- gion j)osses8es the strange property of coming to life every spring ; it bocotnes dry and apparently dead in the fall, l)ut U MONTANA AS IT IS. 63 is- r [as ed he r in the spring all the pnncipal stalks and hranihcs become green as the sap rises in them, and only the tips and extremi- ties become rotten and drop off. This seems alm(3st incredi- ble, but I speak from my own observation, and know it to be Six I am inclined to think the bunch-grass in Colorado, California, and Oregon, possesses the same peculiarity, but I dill not notice it while in those countries. The valley of the Deer's Lodge is about thirty-five miles long, with an average wiilth of about ten miles, and it is drained by the Deer's Lodge river and its braviclus, but at the lower end of the valhy when " Little Bhicklbot" now conies in from the east and llock creek frum the west, it changes its name to Ilcllgate river, and its course from n'irth to northwest. It flows ihrouyh low hills, thickly covered with bunch-grass, back to the mountains on each siile, a iHstance varying from two to eight miles. In these hills in the vicinity of " Gold creek" there are placer gold mines of considerable richness, and I think, extensive. The livir flows through these hills for thirty-two miles, with many beauti- ful and fertile bottonis along its course, while the mountains are clothed with excellent timber; it then enters '"Hell- gate canon" through which it flows for forty miles, receiv- ing on the way several streams, one of which on the south sifle called Ivoek creek runs with extreme velocity, and fur- nishes a large body of water, which during the spring ireshets brings down a large quantity of round smooth boulders, which it deposites on the bottoms at its mouth, fifteen miles below. '■ Big Blackfoot" river comes in from the east and north. It heads near Lewis and Chiike's pass of the Kocky moun- tains, wiiere Capt. l^ewis crossed with ten men as the expe- dition was returning to the states in 180G. Five miles below Big Blackfoot, the river enters llellgate " ronde" or valley, where it forms a junction with the Bittor-lloot river, which ctmies from the south through the valley of the same name, which is some seventy or eighty miles in length, and in which is situated Fort O'Tn, about twenty miles abi)ve which is tho third place iu these mountains whore snow never lies ii I I 64 MONT ANA AS IT IS. long at a time. These two valleys (if that can he calhd two which loolcs like one) are unsurpassed for farming or grazing purposes, and are hotter tinihen d than the most of the country south and east of tliem. The moist winds of the Pacific ocean reach the RoclvV mountahis along here, and farther north, and cause vegetation of all kinds, pines in particular, to flourish luxuriantly. The origin of the name "Hellgate," as applied to the river and canon, is most prohaldy derived from the form of the canon itself, for where it enters the valley, it is very nar- row and tlic mountains on each side are very high, making it appear like a vast chasm extending into the hosom of the mountains. Note 21, page 27 : " Ka Shnme'-hau-ner." — This word is used in the same sense and just about as often as " quien sahe" among the Mexicans, or " Je ne sais pas" among the French. Note 22, page 27 : " Nin'-um-hee." — This is a very sin- gular superstition, among the Snakes and Bannacks, and of which 1 have never been able to discover the origin. It runs about as f )llows, although tlure are many variations of it : In certain parts of the mountains (which, as near as I can find out, are the Salmon River, the Goose Cre(>k, and the Owyhee mountains) there lives in caves among the rocks a race of fairies, about two feet in height, who, with bow in hand and arrow-case slung on their backs, go out and hunt and kill many sheep, deer, and elk, which they carry home on their backs ; they eat the fiesh, and their wives dress the skins, of which they make themselves clothes, while the men go entirely naked. Now, whenever the Indians arc in their vicinity, and a woman goes out after wood, or for any other purpose, and happens to lay her infant down and gets out of sight of it, one of these fairies immediately devours it, and taking its place begins to cry at a terrible rate ; the woman hearing her child, as she supposes, crying, returns, and taking it up gives MONTANA AS IT IS. 65 it to SMck to pacify it, when it instantly seizes her by the breast and commences devouring it. Now, these fairies are a kind of liuman " Monitor," being ]ierfectly proof against knives, axes, stones, chibs, or fire- arms, so the poor woman cannot get rid of liim, and lier screams being heard by her husband or friends, they rush to the spot, when the little devil takes to tlight, leaving her in a dying condition. She always dies befoie morning. When they find her, if they leave her to go after mort* iielp, the fairy instantly returns and finishes the job by eating her up altogether. Now, when they see the little children playing together a little way out of camp, one of them will take his tail (I for- got to mention that they were furnished with these caudal appendages) in his hand and giving it a wind around his body to conceal it, will api)roach the children and want to ]»lay with them. Sometinus they discover the tail and take to fiiglit and " save their bacon," but at other times they think it is only a " marrow gut" and let him come among them, when the first thing they know he " gobbles onto" some little ' image of his dad," clasjis him astride of his tail and runs '^f ..ith him, and that is the last that is ever seen or heard of that unfortunate child. Their camiibalistic propensities, however, do not appear to extend to the Indian men, for whenever they hap})en to meet one near their dwelling, tlu^y invite him in and give him something to eat and insist on his staying all night, but he invariably refuses, saying that he has killed some game and must no and take it liome or the wolves will eat it. The general opinion, however, is, that he was afraid to stay, but he scorns the imputation. The fairies often gather together of an evening on high rocks and clifi's and sing most boister- ously, and are supposed to be having a good time generally. They are seldom seen except in the evening. There is also another kind of these fairies that live in streams, and are called " pah' o'-nah," which means '^ water infants." They devour women and children in the same 66 BI N T A N A AS IT IS. manner .as the land fairies, and may be considered as rnaliu'- iiant '' little cusses." NoTK 23, ])aj;e 28 : " Kj; nung'-a-tine," or, " nung'-ga- wot." — Tli(! first literally translated is, " no ear-holes," and the second is, " no ears." NoTK 24, ])a,ij;o 28 : " Shosh''-o-co " — m<'ans " on foot," or " footmen," and alludes to the fact of their liavinpj no horses in formi i times ; but of late years they have stolen a great many from the emigrants, and are gen(^rally mounted, although in winter they fref^iieiuly eat the most of them up, and have to steal a I'resh sui)ply the foHowing summer. Tl'.ey talk u sort of Snake " jiatois," but are held in great contem])t by the Snakes nnd B.mnai-ks proper. They arc sometimes calhnl " To'-sa wee," which menus " white knives." ami is derived from their having had knives of bone before tliey g (liHcloHi'H — Htnuij^oly Holcinn — wiliUy HtraiiRO, l,!iy iisido ill! hriilituit. cdIiu-h, imiiitor, imw tlm ixili'llt) chiuiKo. IJriii},' iiic imiliur, briii^ iiif Scpiiis, Viimlyki', mid all tiiilH of lirown, Wliiitsdi'Vr will ]\\nt piiiiit Nutiiro wIilmo hi.;' wiarH her j;;l()iiini('8t frown, 1.1k'' a niiiiiMl wi/iM it, HiM'iiictli — burnt, uptiiriii'il, iiml Hcarrod by lire — Vestige (I Alinik^hty voiigi'uiieo, record of Almighty iro : t ]{i Th <( is res* MONTANi AS IT IS. 67 MonntaiiiB in amvirphous masses — sea-beds of somo cavHer sea ; Laml whcivoii no flower blooniotli — never grows unibra-^eous tree — Dreary hills and drearier valleys — howling wastes of sage-clad sand — Chaos of (iod's first creation — ' I'ieture two in Silver Land.' " If \lt }> Any one who has ever seen the country described above, must acknowledge that it is absohitoly lifeliUe, and, as a speciniin of " word-painting," it has never bi en excelled. The same remark will also apply to his descrii)tion of Carson City, which I quote belov; : " Once an outpost — now a <'ity — this is Carsun fairly drawn, As I i kelch it roughly tnited, on this bright I)eeend)er morn, Crairr ol some dead volcano — lava bed of later lake; Pays the pioneei, stanch-hearted, ' Ib're will I a city make ;' Lays it out in ijnadrilaterals, this a i)la/.a — that a street. Stores (if granite, wooden shanties, cottages witli gardens neat. Here tlie soil wifii careful tillage yields its luscious crops of corn, roiiceiitrating heie its verdure in a wildernt'ss forlorn. (Circling round me, rise the mountains, and hills the placi' invest, Have where crags and pines eomtuingle — looking backward to tiio Avest, One long row of streets and bar-rooms ranged iii)on the wc.siern side: Kastward, viiws of iilains of sage-hrusii, where the vista oju us wide. IJusy throngs of motley people — pioneers ot every raei>, Kastern, wcHlern, Jew and Gentile, Chinese, negro, Indian face. Trailers with thin-visageil aspects; hunters, with their nets and guns, Specula'-;s, politicians, labor's horny-listed sons, IJuilding up the nascent city of the great state yet to bo. Making in the waste a desert all the sounds of energy, Rearing with Cyi'lops power, tralhc's nr.irts and happy homes. Legislative halls and chambers — temiih s, towers, spires, and donies, Such the gro\md-plot — such the future, roughly sketched, but (:,randly plamicd. Of this strange young Carson City — ' Tietiu'c three in Silvi r Land.'" NdTE 25, iiage 29: " Taw'-mee'-ah," or, " law -win."— The first is " walking about and feeding," nud tlie second is " standing still and I'eeding." NoTR 2G, page 30 : '•' An'-ning-gwce'-kwoo." — This nsime is evid ntly deprived from the cry of the bird itscH', which it resembles in Bound. They are very numerous in many plaeea t I li 68 JI O N T A X A AS IT IS in the mouutiiins. and tlioy keep np an incessant song during the mciiths (tf April and Ma5^ I dearly love to hear them, their song has such a chi>erfiil, ph?asant sound. Note 27, page 30: Green river. — " Can'-na-ra o -gwa" — or the " Poor river," is so calhnl bec.iuso it runs through " mauvaise terres," t)r " bad lands," which are clay ter- races, rising one above the other as you go back IVoni the riA^r, anil on which neither grass nor timber grows. Theie is no game of any consequence along the greater part of its course, nor any fish, except a few of a kind of white lish. Tlu' laanehes of the river near its head, however, abound in largi' and beautiful trout. Some of these l)ranclH>s head in lakes of considerable I'xtimt, which lie embosomed in the Wind lliver mountains, among some of the most glorious scenery in America. Mv memory is full of many marvellous legends of these same \Vind Kiver mountains, whicli, as I have heard them from tlie old mountaineer trappers, are almost {H[\ui\ to the leLii nils of the Hartz mountains in Germany. One in iiarliciilar tells that in tliesi' mountains there are places where the tind)er, tlie different kiiuls vf game, aiul even the Indians, were petritied, yet looking as natural as life itself, and that the game and Indians shunned these lo- calities with a superstitious dread lest they should share the fate of their unfortunate predecessors, and many wei the taK'S that were told in years gone by, of Indians having picked up i)ieees of yellow metal in the bronks of tliese enchanted mountains, which were afterwards found to be gold These stories lloated through the mountains even to California, where, in the winter of 18.V2, 1 was told by two o!ns, stratagems, and spoils." " (ireen river" derives its name from the beautiful green color of its waters. ']i h t\H I , ! 70 MONTANA AS IT 18. Note 28, papje 31: "Poo'-e-foy," or "groen pipe," is found in tho banks of the creek which deriv(>s its name from it, and also in several ravines in the vicinity. It is a <5reen soft kind of stone, of great weight, and without grit in it. It crumbles when exposed to the air a short time. The Indians, however, make heautiful transparent pipes of a niotth'd cloudy green, through which the fire shows when smoking. Th» Indians, however, do not show much taste in making them, fir tliey are clumsy and ill lo(tking, hut the material is excellent. They use the following process in making the pipes : ihey dig out a piece of the rock f.om the ledge and instantly rub grease all over it and keep plenty of it on it while carving it out, which pn^'ents it from cracking. NoTK 29, page 31 : " Teed -zc ].ah," or " the bad water," hut is soiretimes called " -nah-bit i)ah," or " the salt water,*' the last being much the most ai)pro])riate of the two, 111 speaking of the sctthments there they g( ncrally call them the "Mormon .shoek'-up," or " IMormon country." This great iiilaml sea is a " prtimiiient featunv" in the " Great basin." which ajtpeais to have been almost covered by it in ancient days, as water-mark^< an; j>lainly visible at diflVrent heights on the UKUintains, some of \vhi<'h, however, appear to have been upheaved abtitit the time the water subsided, and may have had something to do with its fall. The description I have already given ol' the Hreat basin will also api ly to that part of it around the lake. 1 do 'not think any other jieoph; but the Mormons would have had the courage to make their humes and living (by agiieultuial ])ur- suils) in such an unpromising land. They have literally ''made the desert blossom like the rose," Note 30, ]iage 31 : '' Aw'-ha-pit la pee-ass," or " the yellow money." — Money being exjiressed by ''La pee-ass" among the French Canadian hunters and tra])iiers, and the Indians have adopted it I'rom hearing them (!onstantly use the word. Still, a great many of the Hnakes, and tiiat ])art of them in particular that range in the vicinity of Salt lake, MONTANA AS IT I 71 IS lom ?en It iiis, tied s use the word '• Poo'-e-wee" for money or dollar, which arc synonymous ti^rms among Indians. Gold dust is som(>tiniG8 distinguished by being called "Aw'-ha-pit la pee-ass' kesh a hon'-ip" or '' The yellow money not yet made up." Note 31, page 31 : " Ny-a-.vitch." — All Indians from the eastern foot of the Rocky mountains to the Pacific ocean, and from Mexico to the Arctic regions, are the most invete- rate gamblers in the world (always i'XC(']iting the Chinese, who are just as far ahead of them in that respect, as the Indians art; ahead of the wliites). They will bet their last horse, last blanket, last shirt, or last anything, on a horse- race (of which they are very fond) or on some games of chance, of which the princii)al one runs about as follows : They take two })iece8 of bone made for the purpose, about two and a half inches long and a fourth of an inch in thickness, one of which is covered with some dark skin, except about half an inch at each end. Each party then takes a certain number of short pieces of willow sharpened at one end, which they stick in the ground and use to count the game. Tluy take the pieces of bone one in each hand and shift them about rapidly with various contortions and twisting about, accom- panied with a kind of monotonous song which they sing in chorus, while some of them generally l*eat time with a stick on a dry \n)\v. Tiie ojjposite party (it is played by any nund)er, seated in two rows facing each other) guesses which hand contains the black bono (or tlu^ white one as they agree at the commencement of the game) if they guess right they get the bones, and wrong they give the other side a stick, who keep hiding the bones till it is guessed, when the oppo- site party taki^s it, and goes through the same process ; who- ever wins all the sticks wins the game. They are passionately fond of this and similar gamins, and will play at tliem night after night, with a perseveranee and endurance Avorthy of a better causes Note 32, page 31 : " Thu-op' " or " Tswop " or " (Jhost."~ Their belief in such things is exactly like that ol' the lower !!. 72 MONTANA AS IT IS, classes {wnono- civilized nations. White men are frequently- called by this name by the Indians, and it is generally sup- posed that they use it as a sort of derisive nickname because white men make very frequent use of the word "swap" in trying to trade with them, and I think that at the present time it is often used in this way ; but I am satisfied that it was originally applied to whites because of their pale, ghost- ly appearance. NoTic 33, page 31 : "Tim -pep" or " Tim^-pipe."— This dist'ase dues not ]>re "1 to any great extent among the tribes of the mountains, aiul is not very severe, very frequently get- ting well without any doctoring. Note 34, page 32 : "Cut'-tuh o -gwa" or "Swift river."— The Snakes call it by this name because of the extreme velo- city dt' its current, which is equal if not strongir than that of Big-llt)K' iivt>r. The vallev of the (Jallatin is thirty-live or forty miles long, and from ten to lifteen wide, and for farming purposes it is unexcelled by any valley in the Rocky moun- tains, and it is a good gru//ing region. There is a town laid out ni ar the upper end of the valley, wh(>re the road throuirh the Yellowstone eountrv, known as "Bridger's, Jacob's, and Bozeman's cutotVs," strikes it and all the most favorabU^ location^ for farms are taken u]), and there will be a large flouring mill jiut up in the vallt'\ next spring, which, with flour wi fifty doUar.s a barrel, may be considered "a dead thing for a raise," or in other words a "sure card" for a fortune ; and with wheat at from live to eight dollars a buslu>l. I'otatoes twelve to fifteen cents j)er pound, onions fif- teen to eighteen cents jxr juiund, cabbage twenty cents j)er pound, and other vegetables in jiroportion ; melons of any kiiul a dollar and fifty cents each, burhy twelve to fifteen cents j»er pound, and oats the same. If the farmers can't make their "})iles" at these })iices, in gold, rcmvinher, they hail better sell out to somebody that can. Yet. strange as it may seem, there ar(> very few peo]do engaged in agricultural pursuits, whil(> there are laud and room for thousands. The n o MONTANA AS IT IS, 73 tly mountains around the Gallatin valley are beyond doubt rich in the j)recious minerals, althou<;h, owinj^f to the slight amount of prospectinc; that has been done, nothing very rich has yet been *' struck," but the time is not far distant -when the smoke of many furnaces shall rise like pillars to heaven, and the sound of the ponderous "stamp" shall be heard irom a thousand quart? mills, scattered among the mountains of this region, and make the heart of the '"honest miner" leap for NoTK 35, page 32 : " Pec-beet," or "hovse-flies." — These troublesome insects are very bad in the pine timber on the mountains, while in the valleys they are not very numerous ; the higher you ascend U])on the mountains the worse they become. I have often, in hunting, ascended to the heights where tjie snow lies all the year, anlaces by the Indians and old trappers have been changed to others that have neither sense nor mean- ing to tlicm. The class of peojile who ilock to mining re- gions apjiear to have about as much originality as so many ganders. Every little town, for instance, nuist be call(>d Virginia City, Nevada City, (.\>ntral City, or some other name that has already been used in naming half a dozen other towns in mining r(>gions. 'Tis villanous, it produces I ' t. '' 1 wsm '!|t 74 MONTANA AS IT IS. ! I " confusion worse confonndetl," and greatly facilitates our cliunco of never i^etting any letters ; mine generally circum- navigate the globe, and reach me Avith about eight inches thick of post marks and "misscnts" on the envelope, on which occasions I have been overheard making sonn' remarks about " the d — d stu])idity of calling more than six mining towns by the same name," " Horse prairie" lies a few miles south of Bannack city, and at the upper end of the valley is the extreme head of the main fork of the Missouri river, where one of Lewis and Clarke's men stood astride of the stream and thaid^ed God that he had lived to see the day that he could straddle the Missouri river. There is a gulch near the upper end of the valley that paid good wages din'ing the summer of '63, but water was very scarce and little has been done there since. I think the valley lies at too great an elevation to be of much account for farming purposes, although it has never been tried ; it is an excellent grazing region, however, being clothed with a luxuriant growth of grass, while the moun- tains on all sides are known to be rich in gold and silver, and probably in coj)per, lead, and coal. It was in this valley that bands of antelope were found during the extremely si-vere winter of 1852, frozen stiff and standing on their feet in the snow, which was from two to four feet in depth ; at a little distance they seemed to be alive, and a hunter " approached " one and shot it several tunes before he discoveied that it was already dead. Note 34, page 34 : '' It-sooke' ])o'-ni," or " white-tailed deer mouse" — are so called because they go by leajis, and in color resemble the deer also. They have the long hind legs and short fore ones in about the same proportion as the kangaroo. They are found in certain parts of the Rocky moimtaius, Deer Lodge in particular, and in California. They are a little larger than the common mouse and liavo longer tails. MONTANA AS IT IS, 75 on iks Note 38, page 34 : " Tiin-i'-yah," or " larb" — is a small creeping plant, growing all over the Rocky mountains. It has thick oblong leaves, about half an inch long and of a dull green color, and when dried and mixed with about one fourth its bulk of tobacco and smoked, has a very agreeable flavor and smell. It is in universal use among the moun- taineers and Indians. It bears a small red beny, which has an agreeable tartish taste, but if many are eaten tiny give a choking sensation exactly like choke-cherries. They are gathered by the Indians, who eat them while fresh. The leaves and berries of the nuinzanita bushes in California I)osses8 similar prop<>rtie8. The word " larb" is a corru])tion of the French " I'herbe," or " the plant," and the Americans having no name of their own for the plant in question, have adopted the French one. Note 30, page 35: " Sag''-ga-bee," or "manyfold of pauneh." — This is a great delicacy among the Indians and mountaineers, who always save it when they kill any game. I have seen them gobble down large (quantities of it raw, and without its being washed any too clean either. I cannot "go it" yet, but as '' we all know what wo are, but know not what we may be," I may come to it yet. Note 40, ])age 35 : " Ho' kosh^-awb"— literally " the wooden fire-steel," and they give it this name because it is used to kindle a fire with. Note 41, page 36: "To' par'-rce-ah,"or "black elk."— They are so called because when they " shed off" in the Bj)ring they arc nearly black, and they arc of the elk species, only much larger and uglier ; in fact, a moose is the ugliest beast in North America, not even exeejjting buffalo bulls. Their most usual haunt is in bushy marshy jtlaces, near the head of streams, and among densely wooded mountains. Tiiey are easily killed (wlun found, but finding them is a good deal like work) if you have the wind of them and make f: 1 1 1:' 2i 76 MONTANA AS IT IS M'l no nuisc, for they will stand and stare at you till you p;ot within twenty or tliirty yards of them, hut if ever they j;et a " smell" of you, or you wound one without giviniji; it a dead shot, it is almost useless to follow, heeause they will run a long distance, and are very watchful for many hours after- ward. When wounded and hard pressed, they will turn and fight, and are almost as dangerous as a wounded btar. They strike with their feet, which are exceedingly sharp. Their track is peculiar, being about as large as that of an ox, but the " claws" are wider apart and a little narrower, and they run to a very sharp point. They feed on willows, hr branches, and " larb." I do not think they eat much grass. One thing that contributes not a little to their strange and frightful a])pearance, is tlieir cnornious nose, which is about the size of a three-gallon camp- kettle, and, ])eing composed of soft cartilages, it swings and flo])s about in a very amusing manner when they ti this biing thrir gait, and it takes a pretty swift horse to ratcli them. When hard pressed, they will often break into a very awkward gallop, their legs seeming to fly about and become mixed u}) into an inextricable snarl, while their speed is much less than when trotting. Moose-nose, cooked in various styles, is a mountaineer and Indian delicacy. I have a " weakness" for it mysflf As for the meat, when fat it is tolerably good, but when poor, a mess of old boots cooked in good style is infinitely prefer- able. Note 42, psigc 30 : " Mee'-ah."— This word is very diffi- cult to spell, 80 as to give a correct idea of its sound. I am nut sure but " muh" is nearer to it than " mce'-ah." Note 43, page 36 : " Thoig a-rik-kah," or " cowse-eat- ers." — They are so called from a root called liy them " cowse," and ])y the Snakes "thoig," which grows in great abundance in th.ir country, and which is used by them as a substitute for l)read. It has a pungent disagreeable taste, yet many of the mountaineers arc fund of it. il MONTANA AS IT IS. 77 Thcso Indians are also callrd " Tsoi'-gali" by the Snakes, vvhicli is evidently a corruption of " Tlioig a-rik-kah." These Indians have been at war with tlu' Snakes and Bannacks from time inimemorial, for Lewis and Clarke speak of "raids" by the Snakes into the Nez Perce country, while they were there in 1805- G. The word " Nez Perce" is French, and means " ])ierced noses," and is derived from the fact that, in ancient days, they often pierced the cartilage of the nose, and inserted pieces of bone, and other "jewelry," that might well be con- sidered more ornamental than useful. This beastly practice a})pears to have been nearly extinct when Lewis and Clarke visited them, and I believe is entirely so now. These Indians are fast becoming civilized, and now farm to a considerable extent, a large pro[)ortion of their country being well adapted to agricultural pursuits. Here is a practical refutation of the time-honored lie, that intercourse with the whites is an injury to Indians. Let any one take Lewis and Clarke's journal, written sixty years ago, when few of the western tribes had ever seen a wiiite man, and follow them in their journey to the mouth of ihe Colum- bia, and he will find that the Indians along their route are, almost without exception, ten times better olf lo-day than they were then. Tluy have more to eat, are iulinitely bet- ter clothed, have more horses, do not live in such constant fear of their neighbors, and some of them are even beginning to believe that this is so. J.. NoTK 44, page .'57 : " See'-man-o maw" or " the hands ten times," or " ten hands," — is used because the tingers and thumbs counted ten times make one hundred. All Imlians use the lingers a great deal in counting. Note 45, page .37 : " To'-yah-rook" or "th(> Panther"— the literal meaning being " The beast that lives in the caves of the mountains," and is plainly derived irom the fact that they generally inhabit such places. They are not numerous, t .i •H 78 MONTANA AS IT IS, I' neither are they so furious in the Rocky mountains and Cala- fornia, and Oregon, as they were in the states. Their skin is held in good esteem hy all the Rocky mountain Indians, who will often give a good horse for a fine one ; they use thcni to make arrow cases, &c. Note 46, page 37 : " Teet'-sock" or " parfleche"— which is a French word that the Americans have adopted. '• Paifleches" are in universal use in the mountains, and tlie Indians manu- facture them in the following manner : They take a dried Lutfalo hide (and sometimes of late years, they use the hides of domestic cattle), and beat the hair off with a stone which also softens it considerably. They then cut it nearly in the shape of an envelope. When folded they are about two and a half feet long by fourteen inches wide. The articles to be packed are then placed upon the hide and the sides brought together and tied with a small cord passed through holes cut in the edge. The ends are then brought over and tied in a like nuuuier, Avhich makes a very portable package even when composed of small articles. Two loops of small cord are then fastened on one side near the ends, and which are used to hang over the forks of the paeksaddle, a rope is then pass- ed around anil lashed tight, which l)inds the " parlleches" firndy, and enables the horse to carry them easily — when taken off and turned U]iside down they are impervious to the hardest lain, which is a qualitication of some importance to those who are travelling without tents. Note 47, page 38 : " To' o-nah-bit"— This literally means " black salt." They also call red pepjjcr " red salt." Note 48, page 38 : " Tib'-ap" or " nut-bearing pine."— This is a species of pine very much resembling the " switch- tail pines" of Calii'ernia, with this difference, however, the " switch-tails" generally grow on the low rocky hills border- ing the California valleys, while the *' tib'-ap" only grows on the lofiy mountains of the Rocky mountain region. The nuts are alike, only the cones of the " switch-tails" are larger and contain more nuts. The nuts are contained in the scales tan heii the to rar(.' of Bea end St re goo th( MONTANA AS IT IS. 79 of the cones, there being many on each tree, a single cone often yields a handful of nuts, which are about the size of a plum kernel. I can't say that I "hanker" after them, because they have a kind of pine taste that I don't like ; but the Indians are very fond of them. Note 49, i)age 38: " Pahn'-gog-go," or "prairie chick- en." — These "animals," as Lewis and Chirki' call them, are fiund in considerable numbers in most of the valleys of the liocky mountains, but they are not found in California or Oregon. They are much hetter eating than sage hens, the meat is not so dark. The whitest meat, howi'vcr, is the mountain grouse, and next is the pheasant, which are found in some })arts of the mountains. Note 50, page 39; "Toag'-go," or "rattlesnake."— These re})tiles are vciy numeriuis in some parts of the moun- tains, and are invariably of the large yellow kind, there being none of the species called " j)rairie rattlesnakes" in the states, to be found in this country. They do not appear to be very "heavy on the bite" in this region, for it is very rare to hear of their biting either man or beast. Note 51, page 39; " Ing'-ga timp'-pa pah," or "Red Rock creek." — This stream derives its name from some red " buttes" or isolated hills, on the banks near the U])per end of the valley. This stream is a prinei])al bianch of the Beaverhead river. It comes in from the south, at the lower end of Horse prairie. There is a valley extending up the stream sixteen or eighteen miles, but it lies too high to be a good farming region, the stream heads in a marshy lake, to the north of the Dry-creek pass. This pass is the second lowest one that has yet been dis- covered in the Rocky-mountain chain. A stranger, passing here, can scarcely be brought to believe that he is crossing the main chain of the Rocky mountains, for there is actually no mountain to cross, the road, when it leaves Snake river, I 1 I? I ) 80 MONTANA AS IT IS, ^■i: going ui» Dry creek ten or twelve miles with ti very gradual ascent, tuul then passing across a grassy plain three or four miles, to wlu've it strikes the valley of a small fork of lied Rock c^cek. The easiest divide to cross is that between Biaverhead and Deer Lodge valleys, which is reuiirkable as being the only pass that never becomes impassable with snow ; in iact, it seldc.m tails mure than two tcwt deep on this gap, while on the Dry Creek pass it generally falls to the depth of ten and twelve feet. No work has ever been done on either of these passes, and yet loadc'l wagons pass with ease. NoTF. r-2, page 39 : " Aa'-ne no -yo," or '' rice."— The Indiui namr, however, nunins "ant-eggs," which are very similar ! ' ap[iearance, and are cateu by the "noble red men of the sage-! Indian." — These Indians occupy a vast extent of country, and are dividttl into bands like the Sioux. The " (Jrei'U-River Snalccs" occupy the c<»untry drained hy Green river mid its branches. They are known also as " Wash'-a-kceks band," and their princl[»al hunliiig ground is in the Wind IliviT mountains and on Wind river (which is a iun\u branch of the the Big-Ilorn rivci) and its tribularic' , where they nact and have nuuK rous battles w.fli the ('v.>w Indians, who also claim that country. Tlusc tijlits among the Indians remind me strongly of the minor bi.tths UMi-^\ii at the beginning iy are called " Took'-a-rik-kah," or " mountain sheep-eaters," hy the other Snakes, because in former times th(>y lived principally off these animals, which were very abundant then in that re- adi6 are the bravest Indians in the mountains. The Snakes are the most gentle, tractable, and be; t dis- positioned. The Flat- Heads are the ugliest, and most of thiir Avomen are far from being beauties, and are slightly inclined to "• em- hoii]ioint." The Bannacks are the finest looking men, hut their women are the ugliest of an v. The Snake women, and part of the " To'-sa »vees," arc the best hulking among the foregiting tribi-s The Flat-Head and Nesc Perce women are masculine in disposilion. They are most intolerable lermaganis, and they generally " wear the breeches." Tbc Snake women have the characteristics of the men? being kind, gentle, and tractable. The Hannack men are proud and (]uarrelsom(>, the women are stubboin and (dtstinat \ Tlu' " Salt Lake Diggers" dispute the ]mlm of ugliness with the Flat-Heads, but tliey have " no cliancv." The Flat-Head men are good dispositivjned, and are partly civilized, owing to the cfForls of the Jesuit missionaries, who have been established among them for many years. Fatliei De Smet wrote a very interesting book, Heveral years ago, concerning the Indians of the Rocky nu)untHins and the mis- BioriH that he had assisted lo establish among them. I do not know how tiuf Flat-Heads got their name, for thev do not i.ow, nor ever did, so far as 1 can learn, fiatt* n their heads. Lewis and (jlarke did not sec any Indians with the heads ilatlened until they reached the Jiower Colnmbut The Snake language i.- talked and understood by m the tribes from the Kuuky mouuujmH to (Jaiil'uruia, and froiu tl^e goo the \ vicM fill.! ri<' thai will! h Im- th. -on I thai T" MONTANA AS IT IS. 83 Colorado to the Columbia, and Lv a few in manv tribes out- side of these limits. It is to this region what llie " Chin- nook jargon" is to the North Pacilic coast and British Co- lumbia. But Oregon is the place to hoar the " Chinnook" in all its glory ; it has " played" the English language " square out" in that land of rain, fir-trees, " cloochmans," and " camus ;" it is talked by all the inhabitants, big and little, old and young. In travelling through this "illiihe" it is n('C(>ssary to hnve n Chinnook dictionary in your j)ocket or an int('i']»ret('r. Young men and maidens do their courting in this lovely language. About the strongest case of " Chinnook " that (iver I heard of was in this wise : A preacher who was exhorting and comforting a young lady who was kneeling in great tribula- tion at the "' mourner's bench," asked her : " tSistcr, do you love your Jesus ?" the answer was prompt and to the point : " Now'-it-ka siks ;" this somewhat " bhitfed" him, but he jtlucked up courage and said to her ; " How do you feel now, sister ?" " Hy-ass' close," was the touching answer, which completely demoralized him. (" Now'-it-ka siks," being " ^'es, sir," in Chinnook, and '" Hy-ass ck»se," is *' Very good." 1 shall append a Chinnook dictionary to this one for the benefit of j»ersons going to Oregon, Washington territory, or Britihh i'olumbiH. While I am on the subject of Indians, I want to give my views on the virtues and vices of the '' n<»l)le ro\\ man." J lind that (-a]it. K. H. Marcy of the U. H. army, in his "Prai- rie Traveller," has done it exactly to my mind, and I think that every one who is thoroughly conversant with Indians, will agHK* with him. He i-ays : "The Indians of the plains [and niounl.iins too, he should lijf.'e added], notwithstanding the encomiums tha' have been lipsijtfd upon their brethren who formerly occiupicd the FiHstern sUtt'i*, for their gratitnde, have not, so far as I have observed, the most distant eonce[ttion of that s(Mitiment. You may wnfer numberless benefits ui-on them for years, and the more that is done for theui, tho more they will exjiect. They do 84 MONTANA AS IT IS. ■■ ■ i 5 not seem to comprehend the motive which dictates an act of benevolence or charity, and they invariably attribute it to fear or the expectation of reward. When they make a present, it is with a view of getting more than its equivalent in return. '' I have never yet been able to discover that the Western wild tribes possessed any of the attributes which among civi- lized nations are regarded as virtu(^s adorning the human char- acter. '' They have yet to be taught the first rudiments of civili- zation, and (hey are at this time as far from any knowledge of Christianity, and as fit subjects for missionary enterprise, as the most luitutored natives of the South Sea islands. " The only way to make these merciless freebooters fear or respect the authority of our government, is, when they misbe- have, first of all, to chastise them well by striking such a blow as will be felt for a long time, and thus show them that we ari' superior to them in war. They will then res))ect us much more than when their good will is })urchased with ])resents." The o])inion of a friend of mine, who has })assed th(! last twenty-live years of his life among the Indians of the liocky mountains, corroborates the o[)inions 1 have already ad- vanced upon this head, and although I do not endorse all of his sentiments, yet many of tliem are deduced from long and matured experic'^^'e and critical observation, lie says : " They are the most onsartainest varjuinls in all creation, and I reckon tha'r not mor'n half human ; for y^u never seed a hninaii, artcr you'd fed and treated him to the best fixins in your lodge, jist turn round and steal all your horses, or any other tiling" h(! could lay liis hands on. No, nrt adzaclly. He would feel kinder gratclV.l, and ask you to spread a blankist in his lodge, ef you ever ])assed that-a-way. But the Injun, he don't care shucks lor you, and is ready to do you a heap of Liuschief as soon as he quits your feed. No, Caj»," he contin- ued, "it's not tlh:! right way, to give uni presents lo buy peace ; but if I war govenor of themi yore Unlled NtateH, I II tell you what I'll do : I'd invite luu all to a big feast and maki- believe 1 wanted to have u big talk ; and as soon as I'd got Tli| tliej gnl th. w lli.l VM e.| foil ill "■. MONTANA AS IT IS. 85 of ar it urn all together, I'd pitch in and hc.J.p abont half of uni, and then tother half would be mighty gbnl to make a peace tliat would stick. That's the way I'tl make a treaty witli the dog'ond, red-bellied varmints ; ami as sure as you're born, Cap, that's the only way." I suggested to him the idea that tlicre would be a lack of good faith and honor in such a jjrocceding, iuid that it would he much more in accordance with my notions of fair dealing to meet them openly in the field, .-ind tlunv> endeavor to pun- ish them if they deserve it. To this he replied. "'Tain't no use to talk about honor with them, Cap ; they hain't got no such thing in 'uni ; and they won't show fair tight any way you can fix it. Don't tli(>y kill and seulp a white man where-ar they get the better on him ? The mean varmints, they'll m^ver behave themselves till you give 'urn a clean out-and-out licking. They ctm'l understand white folks' ways, and tlu'y won't leain 'un) ; and ef you treat 'tun decently they think you ar atrard. You may iie})t'n(l on't, Cap, the only way to treai Injuns is to thrash them wvll at first, then the balance will sorter take to you and behave themselves." NoTK 54, page 40 : "Hoo'-e-jan" or " S;ige chickens." — These fowls are the connecting link brtwei n prouse and turkeys. They feed [trineipally y^^w the leaves and buvls of the wild sag(>, and are never found where this shrub dofs m t grow. Their flesh i.-" very dn k, tough, and ill fiavor^\l, yet th( y are eaten by both white's and Indians. NoTK 5"), ]tng< 40 : '' To -sa ciur-no" or " NVhite lodges." — The river, kw ra.'ier valley lakes its name front some little whiti^ "buttes" Hliuidini^ near lln; river al the lowi'r end of the valley. This is, du tng the summer, the most beautiful valhy I have ever seen in the Rocky mountains, and is almost ('(jual to Indiaiv .aUey, near tlu^ Lassen meadows, on the north fork of Feather river, in California." The valley of Halt river will proliablybe available lor farm- ing jturposes, with (Vt; e.\t'e])tu)n of the more delicatv- kinds !■) \\ H, ' V t: 86 MONTANA AS IT IS. of vegetables. I am told by tlu> Indians that the snow falls to a considerable depth in winter, and the cold is intense, rendering it dirticult for stock to live through the winter with- out hay or grain. This rivin* is also sometimes called " O'-na-bit-a pah" or " Salt water," by the Indians. It takes this name from some salt s])rings in the mountains bordering the west side of the valley, and from some ledges of piu'e rock salt which are said to crop out in some canons in the same vicinity. These springs are in mv opinion more highly charged with salt than any others in the world, for, if you dip up a cupful of the water and let it stand srvic(' berry." — These berries are very abundant in the Rocky mountain reginn and in (^ililornia and Oregon. They have an in- sipid sweet tasti^, which has a certain richness that makes both whites and Indians fond of them ; if eaten to excess, however, they will cause sickness at the stomach and vomit- ing. The Indians gather and dry large qiuintilies of them tor winter use, and wlit n ])roperly cooked they are very good. They jj^row u])on a hush varying from two to twelve te( t in hi'iirlit. and seldom e.Keeeding two inches in diameter. The Iwiish is inclined (,(, bo low ami scrubby : the wood is very hard aud tough, and is much uaed by the Indiana, who uro HI sal lh| All re| a> til oj f MONTANA AS IT IS 87 Us veiy expert in straighten in*;' it I'or arrows and ramrods. One groat drawback to the Kocky mountahi and Great basin country, is that there is no hard wood growing in it large enough to be of much use. About Salt lake there grows a few small stunted oaks, and a scrubby tree called "moun- tain mahogany," which is exceedingly hard and very fine- grained ; but is too scarce and small tu be useful for anyt.jini; but ten-pin balls and " faro cliecks," &c. There are some small specimens of the " mountain mahogany" growing in the " B^'averhead basin," which shows that the climate is similar to that of the " Great basin." It is an indis])Utable fact, that the climate of the Eocky mountains, or, at least, that part of them lying between the Houth pass and the British ])Ossesaions, is much milder than the same latitude in the Mississippi valley, or the stares east of it When one considers the great elevation of this region, tb.' Milidm^ss of the climate seems almost incredible ; but it is known to be so, in proof of which stock of all kinds, even including sheep, winter easily without having feed of any kind, except what they get on the prairie ; or shelter, except such as they lind in the brush and timber along the streams ; and it" tlicy are not used they will usually gain in llesh dur- ing the winter, and come out fat in the spring. i attributes this inihlness to the warm winds from the Pacific ocean, which evidently reach to, and in some localities cross over the Rocky mountains, and make their inlluence felt for a considerable distance (;ast of them. It is these same winds that give to Washington territory, which lies in the same latitude as Cana(Ui, New J5runsvvick, and Nova Hcotia, a climate as mild as that of New Jersey, Dehiwaro rtnd Pennsylvania. ^oTi; 07, page 40: " Ag'-gi pah," or " Salmon river" — receives its nanu' from the large nnmlx^-s of thoe fish that ascend it every summer, and furnish, from time imniemorial, the subsisleiuu!, during the latter part of the summerand fall, of the " Saliuou River BjiaHt^'«/' h 88 II O N T A N A AS IT IS The Mormons formed a settlement, called " Fort Llmhi," in Salmon River valley in 18.'55, and farmed with great suc- cess lor three years, till the winter of 1857, when the Ban- nacks, aided and abetted hy the " Sheep-eaters," rose upon them, kill inn; several, and takinjj^ some three hundred cattle, a numlier of horses, ami almost all their grain and vegeta- bles I'rom tlu'in. and then compelled them to leave the valley and go to Sal ' in midwinter. I have ntver heen able to ascertain ti >e of this apparently unprovoked out- rage. This valley ])resent8 great inducements to settlers, being well timbered aiid watered, with a good soil, and a sure mar- ket at Haniiack City, distant thirty-live or forty miles, with a tnh'nihly good ]iass in the Rocky mountains, which .run be- tween them. Salmcm river being on their western slope, it is the <.nly stieam that the salmon can ascend to the very toot of the Rocky mountains, which mak(» (juito a bend to the west at this ])oint, and are the dividing line between Mon- tana and Idaho, Salmon river being in the latter. The winters are quite mild in this valley — about as much so as in l^eaverhead or Dt'cr Lodge valleys — and there is no doubt but that the mountains all around it contain gieat mineral wealth, but as yet very little ])rospecting has ever been done in that vicinity. In iiict, a very small portion of the territory of Montana is all that has been prospected, and that little has proved to be universally rich in the [)re- cious minerals. Note 58, ]>agfi 40: " Po-ho-gwa," or " Snake river." — The Indian name, however, means " Sage-Brush river," and is very a])propriate, for the up])er and largest hali'of its im- mense vaHey is a desert sage-brush pliiin, thickly strewn with volca!iic rock of all shajtes and sizes, with scrubby cedflrs growing in patches in the stoniest jdaees. In fact that part of the valley lying north of the river, and between the " Mar- ket lake" and ''(/amus prairie" is a vast lava bed, about one hundred nu'Ies in length and fnmi forty to sixty wide ; the tr; be or fo V >} IC- :1c. MONTANA AS IT I 89 upper part of it is much brolcen up, but in the middle and lower pcn-tions there are many places that look as if they had only cooled a few hours ago, when it has probably been cen- turies since this fiery flood boiled up at some pomt in this plain, and spread utter and eternal ruin over this part of the valley. Some of these })laces present a ri))pled appearance, like a sheet of water with a gentle wind blowing across it, and which has, imdoubtedly, been caused by a very strong wind — probably a tornado — blowing across it when it was cooling. In some jdaces there are huge fissures or cracks, caused bv the contraction of the lava as it cooled, from one to ten feet wide, and reaching for miles, and of unfathoma- ble de])th, for a stone thrown into one of these chasms can be heard striking the walls as it descends, until tiie sound is lost in the bowels of the earth. All the streams ]uitting down from the mountains into this huge lava ficild, sink and heccnne lost, and maybe seen by the traveller that passes along the south side of Snake river, spouting out of holes and fissure's bi the per])endieular wall- rock banks of the river at various iicights, from twenty to two hundred feet above the water, along this part of Snake river there are many places extending for miles and miles where the traveller, though dying of thirst, cannot get a droj) of water, because the banks arc of perpendicular wall-rock, of volcanic origin, hundreds of feet in height. There are many falls in the river along here, and T find the following description of the greatest of thiin in "■ Ij'echo du l'aeifi(|ne," a paper published in San Frarieiseo, Cal. : " We lately ])ul)lished an account according to the reeitaj of a traveller, of the (Jreat fills of Snake river. Since lliN epoch a crowd of other relations piijilished l/V llie Allieiiea?! ])res8, have contirmed the details of the first. It follows llwt| these falls positively, both in the volume of wafer which lulls and in tin; heightof the fall, surpass those of Niagain, |l(|i'/n- fore the most eelehrated in the whole world. ■ l ti " A visitor has recently measured the diifere/if fiijifi of Snake river, and he has given to the ' News/ a lie|s(* l'/l(/'i/'| .:f 1 90 MONTANA AS IT IS. published the nearest to these falls, the following account of his journey and his experience : " 'We arrived at Ruck creek, distant a day's travel from Salmon Falls ferry, and we set out one morning to go in a straiglit line to Snake river at the Great falls. After trav- elling four miles, we came upon them without having seen them or even heard the roaring of the water. This was owing to the great height or rather dejith of the river banks, which rose on each side three thousand feet, or one thousand yards. We could descend on horseback to within some hundreds of yards of the friglitful ])recipice. "■ 'Quick-'ning the steps of our animals, wc were soon at the kncl of the river, above the falls. The scene that then lay spread out l)efore us is too sublime and too far above the ca- pacities of my pen to be adequately described by me. "■ ' We measured the total licight of the falling sheet of wa- ter and found it to be two hundred and three feet, and the pitch commenced twenty-five or thirty feet above that, and the width of the Great falls, according to our estimate, is twenty- live hundred feet or eight hundred thirty-three and one third yards. '• 'I have vi^^ited Niagara several times and I sj)cak know- ingly when I say that it cannot compare with these falls. " ' Four miles farther uj) the river we saw another full, but it is mufli less curious and remarkable than the Hrst. '' ' The water is divided into two j)arts, and falls a perpen- dicular height of one hundred and sixty-seven feet, " ' Whoever crosses the i)lains nowadays, should not pass so near to these wonderful falls without paying them a visit. I consider that this visit has been worth an entire year of life. " ' The figures given above can be relied upon, fur we set out with the intention of verifying them, and carried with us all the instruments necessary f(jr measuring.' " The Salmon falls prevent the salmon lish from ascending any farther, but the river above is " full" of very large trout, which are the best and most beautiful fish in the woild. It is a singular fact, that while all the streams on the it tl ri| 1'^ MONTANA AS IT IS. 91 of of but western slope of the Rocky luouiitains literally swaiin with these delicious fish, the streams on the eastern slope contain, as a general thing, very few of them. The Yellowstone, however, is an exception, for trout are plenty in its waters, especially the lake and the small streams emptying" into it. This lake is about sixty miles long and from fifteen to twenty wide, and is very irn^gnlar in shape. It lies at the eastern edge of a vast plateau, in wliich rises the Yellowstone river, and the Madison, and Gallatin forks of the Missouri, Snake river, and some branches of " Green river," whieli is the north fork of the Cohrado. The three first named flow into the Atlantic, while the last two empty into the glorious Pacific. This ])lateau lies at a great elevation, probably over six thousantl feet, and it almost obliterates the Rocky mountain chain in that region. Some spurs and isolated peaks, how- ever, stand around its edges. It is swampy in many places, and it is said that some of these swami)s furnish water to both octans — in other ])arts are craters still hot and smoking, and old mountaineers tdl many strange stories of " fire holes," " beds of hot a. s," " boiling swamp," "stinking tar and sulphur springs," and of many strange and startling sights and sounds seen and h(>ard in this volcanic region. It is a singular fact that less is known of this particular locality of about two hundred miles square, 'hanof any other part of the Rocky mountains north or soui.j of it — Jii fact it is almost as much of a '• terra incognita" at this time as Central Africa. But it will nt>t l)e long now until ii wii; be thoroughly exi)lored by miners in search <'t' that particular ramification of " the root of all evil," ycient "gold dust," which is supposed to abound " over there." It is rather near, however, for miners from" these di;j:gings" to give it much of a trial, for it is an undoubted fact that the farther off diggings are discovered the greater will be the rush, and the harder miners .vill strive to get there, while 1 ilaces equally ns good, near at hand, would not be noticed by IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A /^ >% 1.0 121 1.1 |25 u^ M 12.2 I H' ^ L£ 12.0 1.25 ,4 Ili4 .4 6" — ► ^ /: O / /A Hiotographic Sciences Corporalidn 23 y 1ST MAIN STRUT WLfcSTER.N.Y, 14910 (7U) •73-4S03 92 MONTANA AS IT IS. i-i! I ()' •I •( ' v../- Vt-i I'. !: u i- them at all. " 'Tis distance lands enchantment to the" tale as well as to the " view." But it strikes me that I am digressing from the subject of Snake river and its curious scenery, so here goes to finish it. That lava field is an exception to all others, for instead of coming from some mountain it has boiled up in an ex- tensive plain, and rolled in mighty surges up to the very base of the Salmon River mountains, where it is suddenly cooled, presenting a very singular appearance. It looks like a mighty billow just on the point of breaking on the shore. It rises up like an irregular wall to the height of from ten to twenty feet all along the base of the mountains, leaving only enough level ground to barely admit of the passage of wagons along the road from Fort Hall to Boise mines, which is also one of the old emigrant roads to Oregon. There are many small rocky *'buttes" scattered over the surface of tliis great bed of lava, which have a few scattered cedars growing upon them. I think there is a huge crater somewhere among them, from which this burning sea was ejected, but it is mere conjecture, for no jiart of it was ever explored, that I am aware of I have never heard of any traditions among the Indians having reference to this mighty eruption. It is noted as being the home of myriads of " woodchucks," which live in the numerous holes and cracks in the lava, and form the princii)al article of food of the Indians of that vicinity during the spring and early part of sunmier. Rattlesnakes are also wij abundant, and theL.e playful reptiles have a hal)it of getting up on the sage-bushes and serenading ])asser8-by with their tails, a practice that is held in great abhorrence by nervous people. Note 59, page 41 : " Pamp'-a-jim'-i-na," or " Sioux In- dians ;" the Snake name means " cutthroats," or, more ex- actly, " tlu)se who cut off the head," alluding to a practice common to the Sioux, of cutting off the heads of their ene- mies, cutting their throats, scalping them, and carving them MONTANA AS IT IS 93 up generally, -which is a thing that the Snakes and Bannacks are not very much in the habit of doing. They meet the Sioux on Sweetwater river and on the Big Horn, where they go to hunt buffalo, and when they meet they always fight, for they have been enemies from time out of mind. These fights, however, consist of a great deal of shooting, yelling, and charging around on horseback, with very few killed, for they generally keep at a safe distance from each other. Note 60, page 43 : " Pee'-a tab'-ba," or " the big day.'' — It is used, however, in the sense of a holiday, and not as a day of rest, for, with the exception of Salt lake, Sunday in the mountains is like an old country fair, more business being done on that day tlian all the week j)ut together. It is a lamentable fact, that the great majority of the people of California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Arizona, and Colorado, pay no more attention to the Sabbath, in a re- ligious ])()int of view, ihan so many Japanese would. No one would ever suppose that they had been born and educated in religious communities, as no trace of it is to be found in their language or conduct. NoTR 61, page 44 : " Pawm" or " tobacco." — Almost all th(j tribes of tlie mountains use it ; they mix it, however, with about the same quantity of the leaves of " Larb" which we!ik(>ns it and gives it a })Ieasant flavor. Tliey will not smoke it pure, nor liave I ever seen an Indian who chewed tobacco, which shows that thoy have some sense any how. Note 62, page 44 : " Qiiee," or " quee'-ah," or " tobacco root." — This is a root about the size and length of the linger, it is of a (k'ej) yellow color, it grows in the bottoms along many of the streams. It is poisonous when raw, but the Indians cook largo quan- tities of it in a kind of kiln, the j)rocess occupying several days. Wiieii done it is jjerfectly black and very sticky. It lias a very strong smell which is extremely ofleusivo to those who 1 rrr 1: 94 MONTANA AS IT IS. .1 .;j; \\ <\ •'' . ' ! ■' i are " not used to it." It has another agreeable peculiarity, which is, that the person eating it, and liis clothes also, will smell just as strong as the plant itself. In color it bears con- siderable, and in smell a little, resemblance to strong, black plug tobacco when wet, and for this reason the mountaineers call it " tobacco root." It will sustain life, but I do not think it will ever be taxed as a luxury, but " quien sube," we are progressing — toward what — God only knows, and he won't tell. Note 63, page 45 : " Say'-gwa o'-gwa" or " Miry river" — and it is rightly named, fur it is the only stream in the moun- tains where the mud is absolutely bottomless both in the stream and on its banks ; it empties into Bear river on the north side, about fifteen miles above the outlet of " Peg-Leg's lake," which is a beautiful sheet of water, of small extent, however, lying a few miles south of the river. The Mormons are now beginning to ftirra in this locality which offers great inducements. This lake was called after an old mountaineer named Smith, who used to keep a " trading j)ost" at the outlet of the lake, and who had a wooden leg, which he got in the following manner : Some twenty years ago, a party of mountaineers were gathered together, having a " huge" drunk, when one of them became enraged at one of his companions and shot at him, but missed him and broke Smith's leg Inflow tlie knee, he tried several days, suffering terribly meanwliile, to get some of his friends to am])utate it, but none of them knew how and Avnuld not undertake it. Smith, the lion-hearted seeing that his l(>g was beginning to mortify, filed teeth in the back of his knife (there being no such thing as a saw in the country) and sharp(>ning its edge cut away the Ih'sh sear- ing the arteries with a i)iece of red-hot iron, and then turn- ing the back of his knife sawed the bone off, and bandaged it up, all without assistance. Ho recovered rapidly, being of the half-horse and half-alliga- tor species, who stand as much killing as half a dozen common MONTANA AS IT IS. 95 men, and while getting well he made himself a . joden leg which he still wears, for he is living in California, or was quite recently. He ever afterwards went hy the name of " Old Peg-Leg Smith." How many men could amputate their own leg and save their lives under such circumstances ? Perhaps one in ten thousand — not more. Note 64, page 44 : " Tom'-maw yag'-ge," or " thunder." — As they pronounce the word, it would mean " winter crying ;" but I am satisfied that the original way of saying it was " tom'-up yag'-ge," which means " the clouds crying," which is very appropriate, and is very evidently the true meaning. Note 65, page 44 : " Wah -hy U'-gwut," or " The Two Buttes." — These buttes form a prominent landmark in the upper part of Snake liiver valley, o})posite to old Fort Hall. They stand in the great lava field, and have apparently been upheaved at the time of the great eruption. Note m, page 44 : " Tec" Win"-at, or the " Three Tetons." — The Indian name signifies " the pinnacles," and, as usual, it is the most api)ro])riate one that could he given to these remarkable peaks. They are called the " Trois Tetons" by the Fnncli mountaineers, which is " the three women's breasts." They very freipU'ntly give tliis name to isolated sharp cone-like mountains. The " Trois Tetons" are three very sticp high peaks of naked rocks, standing in a hunch of mountains on the right bank of the north lurk of Snake river, not far from the main chain of the llocky mountains. They run uj) to very shar}) points, and are aitjjarently inac- cessible. 1 never heard of any one trying to ascend them. They stand close together, and are very notabhi objects, be- ing visible a long distance. They tower above densely wood- ed mountains, among which are some beautiful lakes of con- sidirable size. Thesi! peaks are very curious objects and will become a great resort of sight-seers in times to come. I am sure they \ " f f TT" 1l 96 MONTANA AS IT IS. ' :■: •■ ;iUi! :" r If » ;:1I: will well repay a lover of grandeur and sublimity for a visit to them. Note 67, page 45 : " Co-ah-wee^-haw." or " turtle dove." — This name is evidently derived from the cry of the hird, which is siuiihar in sound. They are also called " toag'-go in-day ts'/' <^i" " rattlesnakes' brother-in-law/' which name is derived from a strange belief that they have among them, which runs in this wise : Whenever an Indian mocks one of these birds, or kills its mate, it tells a rattlesnake which way he is going, and to place himself by his (the Indian's) path and bite him as he goes by. The snake instantly does so, and gives him a bite that " shuffles off his mortal coil" for him in double quick time. And if an Indian kills one of these reptiles, the doves sit on a tree and weep and lament over that departed snake by reiterating their peculiarly mournful cry. Now, it is nut a little singular that these Indians should have a sujierstition against mocking or killing this bird, which it is considered a sin to kill among the most civilized nations. Here is a chance for learned philologists and antiquarians to " wade in." Note 68, page 44 : " Tsin-ah," or " Thistle-root."— This is the rout of the common thistle, which is very abundant in the bottoms along nearly all the streams in the mountains ; they grow to about the size of a largo radish, and taste very much like turnips, and are good cither raw or cooked with meat ; they are only good, however, during the months of March and April, as after that time they become pithy. They are much us( d by the Indians, who also cat the young and succulent stalks during the months of June, July, and August, on the same principle that white folks cat as- paragus and greens. MONTANA AS IT IS 97 Note 69, page 46 : "Woo'-ban Pimg'-go," or "Wagon." — The Indian name is " wooden horse," and they have a singu- lar way of affixing the word "horse" to their names of a good many things that were unknown to them before the advent of the whites ; for instance, they call a common sheep " took'-oo pung'-go" or " mountain sheep-horse ;" they call a goat " quar^-see pung-'-go," or " antelope-hor?G ;" they call oxen or cattle " quitch'-em pung^-go" or " buffalo- horse ;" they appear to have affixed " horse" to all these things in order to distinguish them from the animals they named them after. Note 70, page 46 : " Ho' o'-gwa" or " Weber river," U. T. — The Indian name signifies " Timber river," and tliey called it so because it was very heavily timbered before the Mormons used it up. Note 71, page 47 : " Pish'-ah tim'-mo-dzah" or "Wil- lard's creek." — The Indian name is '' Eotteii-stone point," and is derived from the cliifs of rotten, crumbling stone, just below where the town of Bannack now stands ; it was a famous locality fur mountain sheep in days gone by, as the numerous heads and horns found about there still attest. This creek was named after one of Lewis and Clarke's party, who is still living, or was a few years ago in California. At the time of the discovery of the mines on this creek the miners called it " Gra8shopj)er creek," because of the great number of these " fowls" that lived there. It should, how- ever, be called after Willard, in remembrance of the first white man who ever saw it. There is a tendency to change the old names of Htreams and places, as the country settles up, that is nuieh to be regretted, as the Indian names and those given by the early pioneers, arc much moie ap])licable than those of civilization, as a general thing. Lewis and Clarke's party passed through the " ITorse-prairiii" gap, and camped on " Willard's creek," about half a mile above where the stream enters the " canon," in September, 1805. How little did tliey think, as they passed over that desert •V; Uv \ ! MONTANA AS IT IS. solitude, that it contained immense wealth, and that that sage-brush point should afterwards he the site of a mighty- metropolis, called '' Bannack Cit)-," in which I own two lots! ' I ■■:1 A r>ICTION"^RY OF THE CHIlSr^OOK JAEGOiq", IN USE AMONG THE TRIBES OP OREGOiX, WASHINGTON TERRITORY, BRITISH COLUMBIA, AND THE NORTH PACIFIC COAST, WITH l»i' CRITICAL AND EXPLANATORY NOTES. {i\H j.^ 1 BY GRANVILLE STUART. \\t' m. I t*i f : ¥ :i' ■ .t; ■ j' 1 :*• ■,i< ^i iiii .;!l PREFACE. The "Jargon" so much in use all over the North Pacific coast among both whites and Indians, as a verbal medium of communicating with each other, was originally invented by the "Hudson's Bay Company," in order to facilitate the progress of their commerce with Indians, of which there are more than fifty tribes in Oregon and Washington, and as many more in British Columbia ; and while there is general similarity of language among them, leading one to suppose that at some remote period they all talked one tongue, yet each tribe has at this time, a dialect of its own, differing in many respects from all the others ; and as it was impossible for the traders to learn all the lan- guages, and jet it was necessary to have some medium of conversing with each tribe, the "Chinnook Jargon" was gradually formed and introduced among them, and is now universally used by all these tribes in their intercouse with the whites. The "Jargon" is founded on the language of the "Chin- nook" Indians, and the bulk of it is composed of words from their dialect, to which is added a great many French words, and a few English ones ; there is, besides, a great many " Nez Perce" words, and a few from many of the other tribes. In writing this '' Dictionary," I shall append notes, criti- cal and explanatory, for the purpose of showing how tliis " Jargon" was formed. ?1 t( m k i Mil ; 't '• . i:i! »''■ ■■ W'l ' '» ' ? f i;? K ■ f , k RULES FOR PRONUNCIATION. »♦• Give all the letters their alphabet sound, and be careful to emphasize the syllable that has the accent mark (thus ') attached to it. Compound words determine their signification by the word prefixed to them, as " ty'-ee pus-sis'-sey," or " chief cloth" or"bhmket," means superfine cloth ; "ty'-ee house" or "chief's house," meaning the house of an important person, &c. Words express equivocally nouns or verbs, as "ni'-kah waw^-waw," "I speak," or "my word." The letter / never occurs in this jargon. When there is no accent mark, emphasize all the sylla- bles alike. ' ■ ' li 1 1.? Mi ! U DICTIONARY OF THK CHINNOOK JARGON. W ENGLISH. OniNXOOK JARGON. Ague Cole'-aick (Note 1). Alms (to give) Mam'-mook klah'-how-iam. Ami, or & Pe (Note 2). Arm Le mah' (Note 3). Aimt Qnaw'-eth. Axe La hash'. Alone Co-pet', or, ict. Always Qua' • sum. Alike Cock'-qna. Angry Sul'-lux. Age En'-cot-ta. Afraid Quash. Angel Ta-man'-on-is. Arrow Stick col-li'-ton (Note 4). American Boston (Note 5). Across En'-a-ti. Apron Ki'-en. All Kon'-a-way. Ah I (in pain) A-nah'. Awl Shoe ca'-pii-nt. Amuse (to) Mam'-mook he'-he (Note 6). Arrive Coe. Autumn Ten-ass' cold ill'-a-he. As Kock'-wah. Ask (to) Waw'-waw. Again WaW-hnth, or, worth. Ascend Clat'-ta-waw soth'-a-le. Ahead E'-lip. \lmo8t Wake si'-ah. I'l t' niit' If ' . I, V i ;♦ J i ■ 104 MONTANA AH I T J R, KNdi.lSII. CIIINNOOK JAKUON. Apple INiW-ilcli. AiiHWcr \V;i\v'-\Viiw. 33 Hciinl ('liii-pootcli'-iio. Wiick Kiiiip'-tii. ({rnllicr (cildiT) ('!i'-[>o. UnilliiT (yniiiif/;( i) Ow'-cy. HinMicr-iii-liiw Atl,H-y()('k'-ii-iriati. lilllllkt't I'llH-HiH'-HCy. Kill.' T'khil.^, or. chile. [{(■;i. IJerricH O'-Iil-Ic. Boivnl (.r plank La j.I.ihIi (Note 10). I'l'iiiK (to) luk'-kiiiii. Hlackhi'iricH (!lick'-a-iinix. Uad Hpirit Ma-Hacli'-a tu-mati'-uu-wis. Befnro A'-lip. Bt'liiml Kinip'-tam. Bt'll Tiiin'-tiiiji (Note 11). B<'y'Mid Tcu'-as Hi'-ali. Hluuil I'il-pil. MONTANA AS IT IS 105 E.varjHri. cimnnook jauuon. '^''"•> ria'-|„ H.-lth'-hoHt. |{..W (wCillH.Il) Hl.i(;k-llMIHkc(,. '*"x l.<...l<'-a-Hoj. '^''«<'l' Cnr-UiH ti.iNitc. '5''"i<"l' Tliliick'-iilUi. I^'irl^y liii'nli. '*'■"•"» \'U)(,\n (n-, I.MK.in (Note 12). '^iiT^'l Tali'-jno-lilch. l*«ii(!atli K(!k'-wil-l;i. '^""l"' T.'-IoohIi' ^rluCO' (Notu l.'}). •broken Cock'-slitt. •5n!:ik (((.) Main'-inook (;(..;k'-Hli.'f. '5«>' ENGLISH. CHINXOOK JARGON. Coat Capeau (Note 19). Calm Ha'-lo wind. Clean Ha lo ill'-a-he. Cry Cly (Note 20). . Cut (to) Tlilah'-C'ope. Cellar Ket'-wil-la. Cold Cole (Note 21). Cup O'-skuii. Curly Hun'-nel-h-keek. Carrot La car-rot (Note 22). Cabbage Cabbage (Note 23). Crooked See'-py. Clams La-kutch'-ee. Capsize Kil'-a-pie. Come en Ily'-iuk. Call (tn) Waw'-waw. Cap So-ah'-pult. C..ftoo CnflVe (Note 24). ('ertaiuly Nnw'-wit-ka. Cedar I^ med-seeu stick. Cirilf Ka'-<)0 ka'-oo. Chain Cliick'-a-niin lope. Cart Chick-chick. Command (t") AVaw'-waw. Count N[aiii'-mi)ok cou'-cha. Crow (bird) Caw'-caw. Cloth (wiinlUn) i'us'-sis'-scy. Cloth (cotton) I^il. Copper Pel chick'-a-min. Child Teu'-nas. Chilly Ten'-uas cold. Cra/y Til-ton. Coid (to) Mam'-niook cold. Country Ill -a-he. Captk Tah'-uio-Iicb. Conquer To -lo. CI' 'ck lly'-as watch. Calf Tcu'-naH inooB' moos. TD Kaughtcr (my) Ni'-kah tcn'-nus clooch-man. Duck CuMacul'-la. Dig (to) Mam'-mook cla'-wliop. MONTANA AS IT IS. 107 ENGLISH. CHINNOOK JARGON'. Door La porte (Note 25). Drive (to) Mani'-mook kish'-kisli. Deer MoW-itch. Dance Dance, or, tance (Note 26). Dish O'-seun. Drink p,,t'-tle lum (Note 27). Dive in the water Claf-ta waw kef-wiUa cliuch. Down the stream Mi'-mv. Deceive (to) >ram-mook tal'-la-pos. Dark Key'-sep. Down Keg'-wil-lv. Day Sun (Note 28). Daybreak Teu-nas sun. Drink {to) Mam'-mi>okt3uch,or,chuck,or,muck'- a-nuick chuck. Different IlaW-lo-hah'-niaw. Dress (a woinau's) Coat (Xote 29). Deep Klip. D^'vil Le yob (Xote 30), or, nia-sacli'-a ta- inan'-on-is. Desert (to) C'ap'-swal-la claf-ta-waw. Difficult Ily-as kul. Dead Mam -ina-looso. Dirty Por-tle Ill-a-he. Dog Kah'-mooks. Don't know Wake cuni'-tux, or, clo-nass'. El Kye Pee-uli'-host. Kar (^)u(>-l(in. Knemies Ma-sacli'-a til'-li-cums. Klk M.M.-luck. Early Teri'-nas sun. Everywhere Kon'-a-way kah, or, kah-kah. Enil ()'-bo..t (Note ai). Egf? Ea sap (Noto 32). Em|ity Ila'-lo mit'-lite. Evening Ten'-iias po'-lack-ly. Englishman King (ioorge man (33). Enough ('o-i)et. Embrace Ba-ba. Elevate (to) Mam-monk soth'-a-ly. Enlarge (to) Maiu'-iuuok hy-as. I' ■ J, i> 'h '. ■ ' ■■■;■. '\* It "i:'^ 108 MONTANA AS IT IS. I I- I' ENGLISH. CKINNOOK JAROON. Extinguish Mam'-raook mam'-a-loose. Earn (to) To-lo. Eat (to) Mufk'-a-miick. Eight Stoat-kin. Eighty ,Stoat'-kin tot'-le-him. Frenclunan Pe-si'-oux. Face Seea'-host. Flea En'-o-poo. Fingers Le niah' (Xote 34). Feet La pe-a' (Note 35). Father I'aw'-paw (Note 50). For what Pc'-co-tu. Falseliooil {"lali-niau'-a-whit. Far off Si-ah'. Full rof-ul. Fire Pi'-ah (Note 37). Food Muek'-a-niuck. Friend Six. Fiiiisiied Co-pet. Fence t'lil -lali. ■"at Ily'-as gleeco. ^lowers Close tii)'-HO. 'orget Co-pet cuui'-tux. \n)\ Pil-ton. Mag Sun'-day. 'ox Tal-a'-pos. 'hes Le niooshe (Note 38). 'orenonii Fi'-lij) Hit'-cuiii sun. 'ik- Lr lini (Note 39). 'rog Shi\v'-\va-ka-iek. ^)ol (to deceive) Lah' lah. 'ishhook A-kiek'. 'isii Sa'nion (Note 40). ear Quash. 'lour Klini'-Miin sap'-a-lil. 'ryiMg|)an La poo'-el (Note 41). 'allioni (six i'eef) Klh'-lon. 'ade (til) Chah'-co spo'-ak. asten (to) Mam'-mook-kow. Fl i' f; (J (; (; (3 V, V, v,\ Oil (if MONTANA AS IT IS, 109 EXaUSII. CIIINXOOIC JARGON. Field Close iU'-a-he co'-pa cul'-la. Formerly Aii-aw'-cot-ta. Fill (to) :\ram'-mook pot'-nl. Fork La foo-shay' (Note 42). Future Al'-ka. Fog Cul'-tus smoke. Fil<^ (to) Maiu'-niook lo lim'. Fii'l TiCe'-pa, or, L-see'-pa. Flat Thluck'-ulth. Feather Tip-pa, or, Tip'so. First E'-lip. Four L(.ck'-et. Fourteen Tot'-le-lum lock'-et. Forty Lock'-et tot-lc-lum. Five Qiiiu'-\un. Fifteen Tot'-le-lura quiii'-uiu. Fifty Qnin'-nm tot'-le-lum. C3- Grandmother Chits. Graiulfatlier Cliope. Girl Teii'-uas Clooch'-mau. Good ('lose. (Jo away Clat'-ta-waw. Go to bed Clat'-t{i-waw Moo'-sum. Gum Musket (Note 43). God Sah'-hah-le Ty'-ee. (jootl H])iril Sah'-hah-le Ty'-ce. (Jreat luany Ili-vu'. (ioose Cul'-la cul'-la. let up Mit'-whit. Gamble Ithel-eoom. Great Hy-ass'. Ground IU'-a-he. Get Isk'-um. (irasH Ti])'-8o. Glass Hlu'-ioek'-um. Give I'ot'-Iateh. (Jift Cul tuH pol'-lateh. Green , I'-v'lioe'. Good bye Klah-hoy'-yum. (Jreaso (Jleeeo. 1 V. -rr' h 110 MONTANA AS IT IS. I I i :;i ; 1 1 P * f r- i ■■ «;.-ti' V k ENGMSH, CniNNOOK JARGON. Grease {to) Mam'-mook gleece. Gum (pine) La goom (Note 44). Head La tate (Note 45). Husband Afan (Note 46). He Yock'-ka. Hair Yock'-so. Help E'-Ion. Hoe La pe-osh' (Note 47). Here Yock'-waw. How many Coii'-ze-ah hi-yu'. House House (Note 48). Horse Cu'-i-tun. Hear (to) Cum'-tux co -pa quo'-lon. Hog Cosh-aw' (Note 49). Heart Tum'-tum. Hurt (to) Mam'-mook sick. Hungry O'-lo. Hat Sce-ali'-pult. Handsome Hy'-ass cloBe. Hor Yock'-ka. Hole Chi'-whop. His Yock'-ka. Heavy Till. High Utle-i-cut. Half Sit'-cum. Halloa! Nuh ! Hail Knull snans. Hammer La mar-too' (Noto 50). Hard Roll. Hide (to) T})-8oot. Hide (of aiiinials) Pkin (Note 51). Hankkcri iiiel' Han'-kor-chum (Note 52). Hold(;o) Isk'-um. Hand Le mah (Noto 53). Hold fast Quah'-tio isk'-um. Hen Lii j„„,l (Note 54). How largo (^on'-cha hy'-os. Hurry Uy'-uck. Hit(fo).... Quali'-tlo. Hunt (to) (.'lat'-aii(l Ill'-a-he. Lif;ht (not heavy) VVake till. Light (not dark) Sun, or twa. Little Tcn'-nas. Long ago Eii-cot'-ta. r^ong U'-tle-ciit. t'. ii % 1 m t ' 112 MONTANA AS IT IS. W T' if i. ■ I I , k ENOMSH. CTIINXOOK JAKOON. Leg Te-yah'-wit, Land otter E-nah'-modka. Lad Ten'-nas man. Look Nan'-ago. Lie (untruth) Cla-iuan-a-wit. Lie (to lie down) Moo'-sum. Leaves Tip'-so. Laugh He '-he. Lazy Cnl'-tiis. Live (to) Mit'-lite. Listen Ne'-whah. Like (similar) Kah'-qnah. Lower (to) Mam'-raook keg'-wil-la. Leave (to) Marsh (Note 57). Love Tick'-cy. . . • • Lame Cluck-te-ya'-wit. Last (hindmost) Kimp'-ta. Lightning Sah'-hah-le pirc. Lift (to) Afam'-mook sah'-hah-le. Large ITy'-aa. Lean (to) Lah. Looking-glass Sho-lock'-iim. Lately. Tt>n'-nas en-cot'-ta. Lost Marsh. Long A\ hile La' ly. Is/L Mouth La bush (Note .^)8). Mother Mam'-ma (Note 59). Mine Ni'-kah. Men Til'-li-tMuns. Moon Moon (Note CO). Mnskrat {'ul'-tus e'-nah. Many ITi-yn'. Make (to) Mam'-mook. Mat Klis'-qnis. Mos(piito Mal-a-qua. Mocf-asins Skin shoos (Note 01). I^eat Tth-\y(»ol-ly, Mountain Ily'-aH ill'-a-hp. • Milk Tce-toosh'. Morning , Ton'-na8 sun. MONTANA AS IT IS. 113 ENGLISH. CUINNOOK JARGON. Mouse Ten'-nas cole'-uple. Middle Cot-sick. Mud Cle-miu' iU'-a-he. Miss (to) Chee'-pe Mad Sul'-lux. Mind Tum'-tum. Mark Tsum. ... Molasses Lau-lase'. Midday Sif-cum sun. Midnight Sif-cum po'-lack-ly. Mill Moo-lah' (Note 62). Mend (to) Mam'-mook ca-pu'-at. Man Man (Note 63). Month Ictmoou (Note 64). Maybe Clo-nass'. osr No Wake. Nose Nose (Note 65). Night Po'-lack-ly. Nothing Wake icta'. None Ha'-lo. Neck Le-coo' (Note 66). Now Ul'-tah. Needle Ca-pu'-ut. Nobody Wake clax'-tah. Nails (iron) La clue' (Note 67). Never Wake con'-cha. Nut Tuck'-wnl-lah. Not yet Wake al'-ta. Near Wake si'-ah. Nine Quoits. Nineteen Tot'-le-lum quoits. Nuiety Quoits tot'-lo-lum. O Old man Ole' laan (Note 68). Old woman Lam'-ya. Open (to) Hi-luck. On Co'-pa. Over (above) Sah'-hah-le. Over (other side) En'-a-ti. 8 e 114 MONTANA AS IT IS. ■IM I 1 ■ A ENaiJSH. CHIN NOOK JABQON. Oats La wain (Note 69). Out of doors Klah'-haw-uy. Obtain Isk'-um. Other Ha'-lo a-mah'. Overcoat Cah-po' (Note 70). One let. Oar Le lam (Note 71). . Only Co -pet o'-cook. One hundred let tock'-a-moo'-nuck. One thousand Tot'-le-lum tock'-a-moo'-nuck. Potato Wap'-a-too. Present (gift) Cul'-tus pot'-latch. Powder (gun) Po'-lal-ly. Perhaps Clo-nass'. Panta Se-cah'-lux. Plate La see-et' (Note 72). Pipe La peep' (Note 73). Paddle Is'-siek. • ■ Pin Qua'-qua-uts. Peas La poo-aw' (Note 74). Porpoise Qui-cee-o. Priest La prate (Note 75). Path O-e-hut. Pleased Qu-a-tle. Paint (to) Mit'-lite point. Pour (to) Whah. Red... Pill. Relation, or kindred Til'-a-cum. Rise Mit'-whiu River Hig'-ass chuck. Rain Snass. Run Coo-ree' (Note 76). Rope Lope (Note 77). Round Lu'-lu. Rum juum (Note 78). Rattle She-aw. Rooster La cock (Note 79). MONTANA AS IT IS. 115 ENGU8H. CHINNOOK JAROON. Ribbon La loo-pee. I^t Hole'-hole. Rotten Poo-ry. Return Chali'-co kil'-a-pie. Road Oo'-e-hut. Relate Ye'-em. Run away Cap'-swal-la clat'-a-waw. Rudder O'-puts. Row(to) Mam'-mook le lam". Strike (to) Cock'-shet. Shoot (to) Poo. Speak (to) Waw'-waw. See (to) Nan'-age. Soon Wake le-ly. Steamboat Pia ship (Note 80). Sour Quaits. Stand Mit'-whit. Snake O'-luck. Snow .Tie'-cope snass (Note 81). Sorry Sick ttim'-tiim. Summer Warm ill-a-he. Sing Shor-tay' (Note 82). Swim Shet'Hsum. Silver Tie'-cope chink'-a-min. Shut let poo'-ee. Spear Cock'-shet stick. Squirrel Quis'-quis. Saddle La sel (Note 83). Saw (instrument) La see. Shovel La pell (Note 84). Slave E-li'-ta. Short D-cho-cut. Steal Cap'-8wal-la. Sweet Tsee. Salmon Salmon (Note 85). Sleep Moo'-sura. She Yock'-kah. Sister Atts. Sneak Tal-arpoa. Sit down Mit'-lit«. i'l ''! it mr ,r 116 31 ON TAN A AS IT IS 4-'. V ^ ENGLISH. CHINNOOK JARGON. Soft Clah'-men. Shot pouch Cal'-liton la sack (Note 86). Strawberries AW-rno-tah. , . . Sheep La rimt-to' (Note 87). Stirrup Sit'-lee. Spurs Le sib-ro' (Note 88). Skunk Piii'-pin, or, scu-boo'. Silk La swag (Note 89). SpiU Wah. Slow Klah'-wah. Stars Chil'-chil. Sandwich Islander Wv'-ce. Spc.tted La kye (Note 90). Store ^fa-cook' house. Snare La pe-age' (Note 91). . . Sharp Yeah-kis'-ick. Smell Hum. Split Klah'-klah. Soften Cle-men. Stag Man mow'-itch. Seek Nan'-age. Scissors La cis-zo (Note 92). Sew Mam -mook ca-pu-ut. Shake Ilul-hul. Subdue Quawn. Scare Qiiaw'-so. Sink Clip. Send (to) Clat'-ta-waw. Strong Skook'-um. Seal (sea animal) Olk'-hi-vu'. Sea Hy'-ass salt chuck Show (to) ." Nan -age. Since Ats -wah. Sometimes Ict'-ict. Sunset Klip sun. Sell Mah-cook'. Six , Tah'-hum. Sixteen Tot'-le-lum tah'-hum. Sixty Tah'-hum tot'-le-lum. Seven Sin'-a-inox. Seventeen Tot'-le-lum sin'-a- mox. Seventy Siu'-a-mox tot'-le-lum. MONTANA AS ITIS 117 BNOLISH. CniXXOOK JARQO.V. T T^^^ Lotav. That O'-cook. '^'^^ over Kil-a-pie. To-morrow To-mah'-lah (Note 93). ^"^^^y 0-co„k-8un. They or them Klas-kah. Take Isk'-ura. T"t>acco Ki-uolth. Trade Hoa'-hoa. Tear Mam-mook klaJi'. Trouble Mani-mook till. Tree Mif-whit stick. Throw Marsh. Tattle (t.>) Ya'-yim. Tongue La lunk' (Xote 94). Thank you Mer-see' (Note 95). Tie Cow. ^ ^o Ta-mo-liteh. Tame Quawn. Tail O'-pock. Table La turn' (Note 96). Twine Ten'-nas lope. Thread Cla-pite. Thirsty O-lo chuck. Twilight Twah. Tired Till. Twice Afoxt. Tliere Yah'-wah. Take care ! (/lose nan'-ago Tremble Hul'-hnl. Towards shore Mart-thol'-ny. Towards the middle of the river .... Nfart/-lin'-ny. Two Most. Three Clone. Ten Tof-le-lum. Twenty , Moxt tot'-le-lum. Thirty Clone tot'-le-lum. XT Up Sah'-hah-le. Under Ket'-wil-ly. .^! ft i . f !k: 118 MONTANA AS IT IS. Hu m t ^■ ■', ;'. ;j '- ) (. 'il ENGLISH. CHINNOOK JARGON. Useless Cul'-tus. Uncle Taut Us Ne-si'-kah. Untie Klock. Understand Cum-tux. Very small Hy'-ass ten'-nas. Very Hy'-ass. Vancouver (fort) Kits-oat-qua. Vomit Hoh'-hoh. Wide Thluck'-ulth. Winter Cold ill'-a-he. Window She-lock'-um. Wolf le-lo' (Note 97). Who Clax+ah. When Con'-ze-ah. Wife Clooch'-mau. What Ict'-tah. Where Kah. What for Kah'-tah. White Tic'-copc. What color Kah'-tah tsum. With Co'-pa. Wheels Chick'-chick. Wo Ne-si'-kah. Whale Qua'-nice. Wild Le mo'-ro (Note 98). Win To-lo. Want (to) Tick'-ey. Well then Ab'-ba. Water Chuck. Within Co'-pa. Write (to) Mam'-mook tsiim. Work Mam'-niook. Watch (to) Naii'-aRe. Whip La-whit. Week let Sunday. 4 \ MONTANA AS IT IS. 119 ENQUSU. CUINNOOK JAUOON. You Mi'-kah. Yours Me-si'-kah. Yellow Cow-wow-wock. Yes Nah'-wit-kah. Yesterday Tal'-ky. Year let' cold. NUMERALS. One let. Two Moxt. Throp Clone. Four Lock'-et. Five Qnim'-uni. Six Tah'-hum. Seven Sin'-a-mox. Eight Stoat'-kin. Nine Quoits. Ten Tot'-le-lum. Twenty Moxt tot'-le-lum. rj^ljirty ^ Clone tot'-le-lum. One hundred I'-'t took'-a-moo'-nuck. One thousand Tof-le-lum tock'-a-moo'-nuck. ' aI *V}: ;»K >-\ n, II f f SHORT DIALOGUES .... * IN CHINNOOK JARGON. •♦« ENGIJSn. . CHINNOOK JARGON. Good morning:, \ Goou evening, i friend Kla-how'-iam six. Good day, ) Come here Chah'-cn yock'-wah. How are you ? Kah'-ta nii'-kah ? Are you 8iek ? l^iek iiah ?* nii'-kah ? A little, a little fever Ten'-us eole'-siek. Are you hungry ? Nah ? o'-lo mi -kali ? Are you thirsty ? Nidi ? o'-lo ehuek mi'-kah ? Will you take something to eat ?. . . . Mi'-kah nali ? tiek'-ey-nuck'-a-muck ? „-.,, , ,, o I Mi'-kah iiah ? tiek-ey-mam-raook Will you work tor mc ? { , . , , „ ( ten'-nas ick'-ta ? At what ? lek'-tuh ? Cut some wood Mam'-mook stick. C.-rtainly Con-wil-kah. ( Con'-ze-ah tol'-lah mi'-kah tiek'-oy What will you talce to cut all that) ^^^^^^^ mam'-mook con'-a-way o'- P*l«- ( eo-kstick? One dollar h't tol'-lah. That is loo much. T will giv you ) lly'-as o-cook, id'-kah pot'-laleh sit'- hulf a dollar j cum tol'-lah. No ; give me three quarters. , Wake nix ; y^ot'-lateh clone quah'-tidi. Very well, conimenco Close coek'-wa, mam'-mook al'-tuh. Where is the axe ? Kah' la hash ? Here it is Yock'-widi. n..« u „, u r .. *i , „* .., t Marn'-iiiook ten'-naH stick spoflO Gut it small lor the stove J ' ( chink'-u-min pi'-uh. Givo me a saw I'ot'-latch la see. I have not got one ; use the axe Ha'-lo hi boo ; isk'-tim la hash. * Null? iH idwavH iisrvl in luakinn; lui InterrdKiitlon, uiid niuy l)o pluccJ either lioforo or nfter the (irst word. MONTANA AS IT IS, 121 ENQLISH. CHINXOOK JARGON. Have you done ? Mi'-kah nah ? co'-pet mam'-mook ? Yes Nah'-wit-kah. Bring it in Mam'-mook, chah'-co stick-co'-pa house. Where shall I put it ? Kah ni'-kah marsh o'-cook stick ? There. Yah'-wah. Here is something to eat Yock'-wah mit' llLe mi'-kah muck'-a- muck. Here is some meat Yock'-wah mit'-Hte moos'-moos muck'- a-muck. Hero is some bread Yock'-wah mit'-lito sap-i-lel muck'-a- muck. Bring me some water Clat'-a-waw isk'-um chuck. Where will I get it ? Kah' ni'-kah isk'-um ? In the river , Co'-pa chuck yah'-wah. Make a fire .Mam'-mook ])i'-ah. Boil the water Mam'-mook lip'-lip chuck. Cook the meat Mam'-mook pi'-ah o'-cook moos'-moos. Wash tlio dishes Wash o'-cook la plah'. In -what? Co'-pa kah? In that vessel Co'-pa o'-cook la plah. Come here, iriiaid Chah'-co yock'-wah six. What do you want ? Ick'tih mi'-kah tiek'-cy ? Where do you live? Kah' mi'-kah house ? Wliore do you como from ? Kah' mi'-kah chah'-co? Where are you going ? Kah' mi'-kah clat'-tah-Avaw ? Do you understand English? Mi-kah cum '-tux Boston waw'-waw? Are you a Ncz Perce ? Ncz Perce nuh mi'-kali ? 1'' ■'■J i ■M ,'\ "i I it it EXPLANATORY NOTES. 1^ Note 1 : " Cole'-sick." — This is a corruption of the Eng- lish words " cold sick" or " cold sickness." Note 2: " Pe." — This word is used by the French Canadians for " and." Note 3 : " Le mah/" — This is a corruption of the French words " le main," or " the hand." Note 4 : " Stick colMi-ton," or " the wooden bullet." Note 5 : " Boston." — This name, which they give to all Americans, originated as follows : The crew of the first American vessel that visited the shores of Puget's sound, being repeatedly asked by the Indians where they came from ; thoy invariably answered " Boston," that being the port they sailed from ; and the Indians supposing that all the white men who afterwards visited them were from Boston also, called them all " Bostons," and in the course of time the name became universal among all the Indians of the north- west coast. Note 6 : " Mam'-mook he''-he ," or " to make lauirh." Note 7 : " La breed" — is a corruption of the French words "la bride," or "the bridle." Note 8 : " Stick shoes" — meaning that thoy aro stiff and hard compared to moccasins, and that they reach up high on tlie leg. Note 9 : " Lip-lip." — This word is derived from the action of the teakettle in giving vent to the steam when boiling. Notk 10: "Lai)lu8h" — is a corruption of the French words " la planche," or " the plank." MONTANA AS IT IS. 123 Note 11 : " Ting'-ting" — is derived from the sound of the bell. Note 12 : " Ploom" or " Broom" — is English. Note 13 : " Te-toosh^ gleece" — is *' milk grease." Note 14 : " La hot-tee'" — is a corruption of the French words " la bouteille," or " the bottle." Note 15: " Puss"— is English. Note 16 : " La chan-deV" — is a coiTuption of the French words "la chandelle," or " the candle." Note 17 ; " La chaise." — Pure French, " the chair." Note 18 : "La shum'-a-na" — is a corruption of the French words " la cheminee," or " the chimney." Note 19 : " Capeau" — pure French, " coat." Note 20 : " Cly" — is a corruption of the English word " crv." Note 21 : " Cole" — is a corruption of " cold." Note 22 : " La ca-. -rot" — is a corruption of the French words " la carrotte," or " the carrot." Note 23 : " Cabbage" — is pure English. Notp: 24 : " Coffee" — is pure English. Note 25 : " La porto" — is pure French, " the door." Note 26 : " Dance"— is English. Note 27 : " Pottle lum" — is derived from " bottle of rum," which article was of old traded to them in exchange for their iurs and salmon, and on which they would get glori- ously drunk — hence their name for drunkenness. Note 28 : " Sun"— is English. Note 29 : " Coat" — is old English, it being common in the " good old times" to speak of a " woman's coats," in- stead of her dress. •It \m 124 MONTANA AS IT IS. 1 ■ i< . Note 30 : " Le yob" — is a corruption of the French words " le diable" or " the devil." Note 31 : " 0-boot" — is a corruption of the French words " au bout" or "at the end." ■,■-■;■,;■>■ Note 32 : " La sap" — ^is a corruption of the French words " les oiufs," or " the eggs." Note 33 : " King Goorge-man." — The Hudson's Bay Com- pany, and also the " free" English traders, called themselves by this name to enable the Indians to distinguish them from the American traders, who were called '' Bostons." Note 34 : " Le mah''" — is a corruption of the French words " le main," or " the hand." NoTK 35 : " La po-a'" — is a corruption of the French words " la pie^" or " the foot." Note 36 : "Paw -paw" — is a corruption of the English " papa." Note 37 : " Pi^-ah" — is a corruption of " fire." Note 38 : " Le mooshi" — is a corruption of the French words " le mouche," or " the fly." Note 39 : " Lo lim" — is a corruption of the French words " le lime," or " the file." Note 40 : " Salmon" — is English. Note 41 : La poo-eP" — is a corruption of the French words " la poile," or " the frying-pan." Note 42 : "■ La foo-shay'" — is a corruption of the French words " la fourchette," or " the fork." . Note 43 : " Musket"— is English. Note 44 : " La goom" — is a corruption of the French words " la gommo," or " the gum." Note 45 : " La tate" — is a corruption of the French words " la tete," or " the head." MONTANA AS IT IS 125 Note 46 : " Man" — is English. Note 47 : " La pe-osV — is a corruption of the French words " la pioche," or " the mattock." Note 48 : " House" — is English. Note 49 : " Cosh-aw^" — is a corruption of the French word "cochon," or "hog." Note 50 : " Le mar-too'"' — is a corruption of the French words " le marteau" or " the hammer." Note 51 : " Skin"— is EngMsh. Note 52 : " Han^'-ker-chum" — is a corruption of "hand- kerchief." Note 53 : " Le mah."— See Note 34. Note 54 : " La pool " — is a corruption of the French words, " la poule" or " the hen." Note 55 : " Kettle"— is English. Note 56: "La kley" — is a corruption of the French words, " La cle" or " the key." Note 57 : " Marsh" — is a corruption of the French word, "marche" or "go." Note 58: "La bush" — is a corruption of the French words " la bouche" or " the mouth." - 1 ii Note 59 Note 60 Note 61 " Mam-ma" — is English. "Moon"— is English. " Skin-shoes " — is English. Note 62: Moo'-lah'" — is a corruption of the French word " moulin " or " mill." Note 63 : " Man"— is English. Note 64 : " let moon." — This is a mixture of English and Chinnook, "let" boimjc "one" in the latter. I' I I i tv Note 65 : " Nose" — is English. m if: -I? 126 MONT AN A AS IT IS. ^ri : '^: Note 66 : "Lee coo" — is a corruption of the French words "lecon" or "the neck." Note 67 : " La clue — is a corruption of the French words "la clou" or " the nails." Note 68 : "Ole Man" — is a corruption of the English words. Note 69: "La wain" — is a corruption of the French words "I'avoine" or " the oats." Note 70 :" Cah-po^" — is a corruptioc of the French word "capeau" or "coat." Note 71 : " Le lam" — is a corruption of the French words, "lelame" or "blade." Note 72 : "La see-et" — is a corruption of the French words "I'assiette" or "the plate." Note 73: "La peep" — is a corruption of the French words, "la pipe" or "the pipe." Note 74 : "La poo-aw" — is a corruption of the French words " la pois," or " the peas." Note 75 : " la prate" — is a corruption of the French words " la pretre," or " the priest." Note 76 : " Coo-ree" — is a corruption of the French words " courir," or " to run." Note 77 : "Lope" — is a corruption of " rope." Note 78 : " Lum" — is a corruption of " rum." Note 79 : "La cock" — is a corruption of the French words " le coq," or " the cock." Note 80 : " Pia ship"— is a corruption of " fire-ship." Note 81 : " Tie'-cope suass" — is " white rain." Note 82 : " Shor tay'"— is a corruption of the French words "chanter," "to sins." Note 83 : " La sel" — is a corruption of the French words ^laselle,"" the saddle." i ]. f'':;; MONTANA AS IT IS. 127 Note 84 : " La pell" — is a corruption of the French words " la pelle," " the school." Note 85 : " Salmon" — is English. Note 86 : " Cal-li ton la sack"— is a mixture of French and Chinnook, " la sack" being French for " bag," or " pouch." Note 87 : " La mut-to" — is a corruption of the French words "la mouton," "the sheep." Note 88 : " Le sib-ro" — is a corruption of the French words " les eperon," or " the spurs." Note 89 : " La swag" — is a ct)rruption of the French words " la soie," or " the silk." Note 90 : " La kye." — This word is in use among the French mountaineers, who apply it to all spotted animals. Note 91 : "La pe-age" — is a corruption of the French words " la piege," or " the snare." Note 92 : " La cis-zo" — is a corruption of the French words " la ciseaux," or " the scissors." Note 93 : " To mah lah"— is a corruption of " to-morrow." Note 94 : " La lunk"— is a corruption of the French words " la langue," or " the tongue." Note 95 : " Mer see "—is a corruption of the French word " mercie " or " thank you." Note 96 : " La turn "—is a corruption of the French word "la table" or "the table." Note 97 : " Le lo "—is a corruption of the French word " le loup " or " the wolf" Note 98 : " Le mo-ro."— This word is used by the French mountaineers to express any domestic animal that is wild and shy, or almost untameable. V 4 I, Mil I" y f !i ■^l. in l^l^r ■:1 ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE FROM LEAVEXWORTH CITY TO GREAT SALT LAKE CITY, UP THE SOUTH SIDE OF PLATTE RIVER. From Leavenwortli City to Salt Creek 3 Good camp, wood, vvatcr and grass. To Cold Spring 12 To the right of the road, in a deep ravine, plenty of wood, water and grass. To Small IJranch 12 To the north of the road, in a gulch, good wood, water and grass. Here enters the road from Atchison six miles distant. To Gmsshoppcr Creek 1G§ Good wood, Avater, and grass. To Walnut Creek 9| I?oad piis.^es a town called "White Head," four miles from last camp. Water in pools, but there is a fine spring three quarters of a mile below. IMenty of wood, water and grass. To Grasshopper Creek 17 Good camp with wood, water, and grass. To l!ig Nemchaw (two miles above Kichl.and) 12| Wood, water, and grass, near the creek. To Water Holes 11 On a ridge at the head of a ravine, are wood, water, and grass, but in a dry time there would be but little water. To Vermillion Creek 10| Water in the creek not good, but there is a well of good cold water near the road ; wood and grass good. To Big Blue liiver Upper Crossing 21| Good ford, fine clear stream, sixty yards wide ; plenty of wood and grass. To Branch of the Hig Blue 17^ Camp half a mile north of the road ; good wood, water, and grass. 9 I': 130 M ONT ANA AS IT IS. \ ilf ■ # It ' t I: 1- %' MILEH. To Turkey, or Kock Creok 15 Good sprin;^ four hundred yards to the north of the road. Store at the crofising ; good wood, water, and grass. To liig Sandy 19 Good wood, water, and grass. To Little Blue IJiver 19 A fine running stream. Camp is at the point where the road turns otF fi'om the creek. Good camps may be had anywhere on the Little Jilue, with excellent vvood, water, and grass. No water between Big Sandy and Little Blue. Tlie road runs across the hills. To Little Blue IJiver 1H| Good camps all along here. To Little I'.Iue Kiver 15 Koad strikes the creek again, and keeps it to camp. Good wood, water, and griuss. To Elm Creek 19 The road leaves the Little Blue, and runs a divide to the head of Elm creek, where there is water in holes, with a few trees. Good grass. To Platte Biver 20 The road crosses one small branch where there is water some- times. Good camp on the Platte, with wood, water, and grass. To Fort Kearney 15 Good camps about two miles from the fort, either above or be- low. Wood, water, and grass. To Platte Biver 17 The road runs along the river, ulicre there is plenty of grass, and occasionally a few cottriiVtood trees. Here the buffalo generally begin to be seen, and the traveller can always get plenty of *' butfalo chips." To Plum Creek 16| The road runs along the Platte to Plum creek, where there is a little wood, with good grass and water. There is a mail station at the crossing. To Platte River 22J The raad runs along the Platte bottoms after crossing Plum creek, and is good, except in wet weather. The road occa- sionally comes near the river ; and, although the timber be- comes thin, yet places are found where fuel can be obtained. Grass is plenty all along here. "^ MONTANA AS IT IS. 131 20 15 17 16? m Mn.K?. On Platte River 23 Tlie roiul continues along the valley over a Hat country where the water stands in ponds, and is boggy in wet weather. Camps on the river, occasionally, but there is little fuel. The grass and water are good. On riatte River 14 The road continues along the valley with the isume character- istics as before, but more timber. Camp opposite Brady's Is- land, Plenty of wood, water, and gra^s. To Slough, on the Prairie 171 The road runs from one to three miles from tiie river. No wood along here, but plenty of grass, and buffalo chips for cooking. On Platte River 15^ The road crosses O' Fallon's bluffs, where there is a good camp- ing place on the right of the road. Plenty of wood, water, and grass on a small stream which is a bayou of the Platte. There is a mail station here. To South Platte River 16^ No timber all day. The road runs along the Platte. Good water and grass all along, with buffalo chips for fuel. To South Platte River 17 No timber along here, but good water and grass at all points, with plenty of buffalo chips. To South Platte Crossing , 8 No wood along here, but good water and gra.«s, witli buffalo chips for fuel. The river is about six hun*, and the other rumiing nearer to the Platte. On North Platte 20', CJo(\d road along the river. (Jood wood, water, and grass, lio'.ul crosses the river at twelve and a half miles. . 10 1 7 a MONTANA AS IT IS. 133 On North Plivtto 20|- Koiul crosses the river again, and llie camp is two miles above the moiitli of La Prell creek. CrooJ wood, water, and grass. Oil North rhitte. 19 Koad runs aUmg tiie river, and is smooth and good. The camp is two miles ahove the, crossing of Deer creek, where there is a blacksmith shop and store. T'ood wood, water, and grass. On North Platte 16 Good road, with wood, water, and gr:i?s. On North Platte 13 Good road, pnssing the bridge wliere there is a blacksinitli shop and store, also a military station and a mail station. At, two miles from camp the road crosses (he river on a good ford with a rocky bottom. Plenty of wood, water, and grass. To " Rod linttes," on the North Platte '2i\ Road is very hilly, and in some places very sandy ; pas:?es " Wil- low springs," where there is grass and a little wo xl. CJood wood, water, and grass at camp, when* there is a mail station. To Sweetwater Kiver 1 1 The road leaves North Platte at the " Red lliittes," and strikes over the high rolling prairie. Ciood grass and water at canip, but not much wood. On Sweetwater River • • • ^^ Road passes a blacksmilh shop and store at the bridge just above Independence Rock, six miles from camp: two and a half miles from camp it passes the -'Devil's (iate" and a mail station. The Sweetwater here runs belwcMi two perpendicu- lar dills, i>resenling a most .''ingnlar and striking appearance. Take wood at the " Devil's Gate," tor cam[». Good grass and water at all |)laces on the Sweetwater. This stream lakes ils name from its waters having a kind of sweetish la^te, caused Ity the large (juanlily of alkali held in so- lution by its waters, not enotigh, however, to cause any appa- rent deleterious eifects. On Sweetwater River "^ Road n\uddy after rains, and some bad ravines to cross. Wood, water, and grass, abundant at cmup. On Sweetwater River / ^^ Road runs along the valley of the Sweetwatw, whore there w plenty of wood, wale-, and grass, in places, but little wood, liowevcr, at this camp. Q On Sweetwater River Koud good, no wood, grass plenty. 134 MONTANA AS IT IS :«. ' M{ ;Hi On Sweetwater River 20 Road good, no wood. To Strawberry Creek Road leaves the Sweetwater and ascends a very long rocky hill, called " Rockv Ridge." But little wood : grass and water abun- dant. To the " South Pass " Road crosses the dividing ridge of the Rocky mountains and strikes the Pfcilic springs (so called because thej' flow into that ocean by way of the Colorado river), where there is excellent water and good grass, provided many trains have not passed, in wbioh case it is best to continue on down the creek formed by tho springs. Sage-brush for wood. To Dry Snndy Creek lo| Grass scaice, no wood, but some sage and greasewood ; watoi brackish, but drinkable. If many are travelling together, it is advisable to send some one ahead to find the best spots of grass, as it is very scarce in this region. " Sublette's ciitott'" turns otT" to the right hero for " Soda springs " and Fort Hall. Take the left-hand road for Fort IJridger and Salt Lake City. To Little Sandy Creek 15 Good water, grass in detached spots along the creek, but little fuel. To F.ig Sandy 18 Grass in spots along the creek, and but little fuel. To Green River, at the Upper Ford and Ferry, 21 j| Plenty of grass .iud wood. To Greon River, at the " Lower Ford " 7 Good grass and wood below the ford. Ferry hero in lime of high water. This h)cality also boasts of u mail station and a " grocery." To IJlack Folk (Lower Road) IG ( lood grass and fu(!l. To Ham's Fork 7 United States bridge here, if passers-by have not used it »ip for lirewood, which is very scarce ; no toll. Good grass early in the season. To Third Crossing of Slack's Fork ^ lioad crosses a high ridge ; tho ford is good except when tho crock is high, when if is best to tak(! n road which goes up tho right bank and aviiids all th. To Big Canon Creek 14 Road crosses Heaucluv.nins fork tliirteen times in eight miles, and is dangerous in high water, becaiise of the extreme velocity of Its current. The road leaves Beauchomins fork and ascends "Big mountain," along a small creek which is well wooded nnd luis good grass ; it then des(!ends "Big mountain" by way of a very sleep ravine to Big Canon crock, where there is good wood, water, and grass. To Immigration Creek The road goes down Big Caftou creek about three miles, and then crosses '• Little mountain," wliich is very steep. But little grass or wood at this camp. 'V, n '\ \fi. 1 ;• na I V 136 MONTANA AS IT IS, MIT.EK. To Great Siilt Lake City lOi Foeil lor stock can be purchased here and so ran any articles that tho traveller may require, but the price will make his hair stand straijxht on "eend." There is no camping place within two miles of the city and and it is best either to stop near the month of '"Emigration cailon" or to cross to " The other side of Jordan." RKCAriTULATION. Total distance from Leavenworth to "The city of the Latter Day Saints" ] IGU rriNERARY OF THE ROt'TE FUOM C3REAT SALT LAKE CITY TO SACRAMENTO AND BENICIA, CALIFORNIA, VIA THE HLMBOl-DT RIVER AND CARtlON VALLEY. Mii.r.B. From Great Salt Lake City to Halt's Hanche 18 CJood road but no feed until after passing Box Elder creek, because the country is all fenced. To Ford on Weber Kiver ITj Good road, must buy feed for stock. Toll bridge for high water. To 1 Njint of INIountain \') Spring water, warm, but pure ; no grass. To Hox Elder Creek 125 Excell(>nt water, but grass and fuel are " played out" in the canons ; must buy of the settlers. To Ferry on Hear River 23 Foiu' miles above the usual crossing, good grass To Snmll S))ring 0| Cross Hear river, below the mouth of " Maladc creek," which would mire a saddle-blaidiet. No wood. To Blue Springs 17^ Grass scarce, no woorl, an 1 the water is enough to make a man swear he will drink nothing but whiskey henceforth. To Deep (Vcek 21 ^ Heavy .«age-brusli, but good grass on the right of the road, near the sink of the creek. MONTANA AS IT IS 137 MILK!, To Codar Springs 20^ Good "iiiiss on the hills, with fine wixter and wood ; rolling country. To Kock Crock 10 Plenty of grass t' the left of the road ; a pood camping place. To Raft Hivor l^ Good eanip. To Goose Creek ^lountain '22| III this ref.fion there is tolerable |)lenty of firass, wood, and water. I'he country is rouj:h and mountainous. Tiie road from Fort Hridiii-r comes in here, via Soda springs, ai\d the "Sublette's entotl" comes in by way of Fort llall, on Suako river, ami the "Hudspeth's eutolf." which turns olf at Soda springs, and comes in again at Kaft river. On Goose Creek 17| Hough, broken ccnuitry. The road, however, whieli follows i\\) the canon of Goose creek about twenty miles, is good. Head of Tliousand- Spring Valley 2S| J?oad runs »)ver a rolling barren region, with but little water, except on the river far to the right. Thousand-Spring Valley 251 Good grass; very little wood. Good camp can be found at short distance along the road. Head of the Humboldt Uiver U Hue camping places and road generally good, running over a rolling counliy. Shtugh of the Humboldt, 23 Extensive bottoms of good grass; not much wood. Humboldt River 20 All along (lie Humboldl, as far down as Lsissen's meadows, the iced is good, exce[)t during very high water, when the bot- toms are overflowed, nudving it necessary to take the nv.vl on the blufls, Avhere grass is scarce. The river, when not above a fording stage, can be forded at almost any point, and good camps <'an be Ibnnd at .short intervals. There are places ali/Ug the river where alkali ponds are frecpient. These are poison- ous to stock, and shoidd be avoided by travellers. It is well, along this river, not to allow aninuds to drink any water ex- cept Iroin the river, where it is running. Hiunbol.lt River 20 Good camps all along. i i 3 m 138 MONTANA AS IT IS. ;■'- ■*.!; \\' u m Humboldt River Good camps along the valley. Humboldt River (willows and sage for fuel) . (( (( (( (i « (( u (( (( (( (( (( (( (( <( (( <( (( « (( CI (( (( (( c( « (( (( « (C « (( (( u (( « • •••«•«! Knxa. 22 23 13^ 101 25 13| 24 24i 20J m Lassen's Meadows The feed is good here, as the name implies. The road forks here — the left-hand one going to Sacramento city, via the sink of the Humboldt river and Carson valley ; this itinerary fol- lows this road. The right-hand road goes to Rabl)it Spring wells, twenty-seven and three fourths miles, where it forks again, the loft-l>and one going to Honey Lake valley, and the right one to Rdgue River valley, Oregon, and Yrcka, Califor- nia. I will insert itineraries of all these routes. On Humboldt river 33| Gras,s anil water poor all the way to the sink. Willows for wood. Sink of the Humboldt 19^ The water at the s^I'iV is strongly impregnated with alkali. The road is generally goo '., but awful dusty. Much stock dies along here, Travellers should not let their stock drink too freely along here. Head Sink of Humboldt 26 Road good, but miserublo water. Carson River 45 Road crosses the desert, where there is no water for stock, but there is a well where travellers can purchase water to drink. This part of the road should be travelled ii\ the cool of the day and at night. Good grass and water where the road strikes Carson. Carson River 2 Good bunch grass near the road. MONTANA AS IT IS, 139 Carson River Twenty-six miles of desert where there is no grass of any con- seiiuence. Eagle Ranch Good grass and water. Reese's Ranch Good grass and water. Williams' Ranch Good grass and water, Hope Valley Road rough and rocky. (Carson City.) Nnar Sierra Good camp, with water and graps. First Smnmit Road rough and rocky ; good water ; no grass. Second Summit Road mountainous and very steep ; snow nearly all the year. Red Lake Good camp. Leek Springs Good grais near the road. Traders' Creek (Jrass and fuel scarce. Sly Park Grass and fuel near the road. Miuta. 30 14 13 12 15 3 7 2 10 12 10 12 Forty-Mile I louse Water [)lonty ; grass scarce. Sacramento Valley Water plenty ; purchase forage. Sacramento City , Water plenty ; purchase forage. Total distance from Great Salt liako City to Sacramento City, Total distance to Renecia 805 973 , -tj \ • f ^ i 1 1 <■ -.^ : ■■ \ '1 ' • -t . j 1 i »'i ' ■ -s * ■ •'!!i ■-\ - * ■^^^ 140 MONTANA AS IT IS. ITIXEHARY OF THE ROUTE FROM GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO I.OS AXGELOS, AND THENCE TO SAN FRANCISCO, VIA THE " SGITHERX ROITE." MJLR!. Salt Lake City to Willow Creek 20'' Good grass. American Creek 14 Good grass. Provo City Ill Buy forage, &c. Hobble Creek 7^ Good camp. Spanish Fork G Good eani[). Peteetucet 5 Good camp. Salt Creek 25 Several .small creeks between ; good camp. Tide Creek 18^' Ford ; no wood ; grass good. Sevier Hiver G^ Koad is sandy passing over a liigli ridge ; good camp. Cedar Creek 25^ Koad rather mountainous and sandy ; good grass and wood. Creek IT^f This is the fourth stream south of Sevier river, lload crosses two streams ; good camp. Willow Flats 3^ The water sinks a little east of the road. Spring 25 Good grass and water. Sage Creek 22^ Grass poor ; wood and water. Beaver Creek 5 J Good wood, writer and grass. North Cailim Creek Tl\ In Littk' Salt l^ake valley. Clood gra.ss ; no wood. The road is rough and steep for six miles. Creek. ol GygJ wood, water, and grass. G H MONTANA AS IT IS. 141 MILE3. Creek , g 3 Good wood, water, and gi'ass. Cottonwood Creek 12I Good wood, water, and grass. Cedar Springs , . , 9 Good camp. Pynte Creek , 23 Good grass one mile up the canon. l\oad Springs 9 Koad is rough. Good camp. Santa Chira 16 Road dosrending, and rougli ; poor grass. From hero to Cahoon pass, look out for Indians. Camp Si)rings 171 Two niiloH Itetorc reaching the springs, the road leaves the Santa Clara. Good grass. Rio Virgin 2"^ '^ Koad crosses over the summit of a mountain. Good road ; poor grasps. Rio Virgin 39^' Road runs down the Rio Virgin, crossing it ten times. Grass good down the river. Muddy Creek 10^' Road for half a mile is very steep and sandy. Good camp. Las Vagas 52^' Water is sometimes found two and a half miles west of tiie road in lioles, twenty-three miles from the Muddy, and some grass about a mile from the road, but, generally, there is no water on this desert. Good camp at Las Vegas. On Vegas 5 Road runs up the river. Good grass. Cottonwood Spring 17 Poor grass. Cottonwood ( irove 29| No grass. Water and grass can bo found four miles west, by following tho old Spanish trail to a ravine, and thence to the left in the ravine one mile. Resting Springs 21| Gooil gra«s and water. Animals ''ould be rested here before entering the desert. 1 . 1 142 MONTANA AS IT IS. I *, ' I • • < I ■ :H I ' ULES. Spring 7 The spring is on the left of the road, and flo\v3 into Saleratus creek. Animals must not be allowed to drink the bad water. Salt Springs 14J- Poor gra,«s, and no fresh water. Bitter Springs 38| INIi^erable water, and poor gra^s. Good road. Mohave Kiver 30| This is tlie end of this desert of over eiglity miles, with- out any good water, and hardly any grass. Good road, and feed good on the Mohave river. On the Mohave 51 J Last ford ; good grass all the way up the Mohave. Gaboon Pass, of the Sierra Nevada 17 At the summit. Camp 10 Koad bad down the canon. Coco Mongo Kanch 11| Del Chino Kanch (Williams) 10 San Gabriel River 10^ San Gabriel Mission 6 Pueblo de los Angelos (town of los Angelos) 8 J Santa Clara Kiver (on the coast route) 68| Good camps to San Jose. Buena Ventura Mission and Kiver 7 J The road here strikes the Pacific shore. Town of Santa Barbara 26 ban Yenness Kiver 45 1 At the Mission. Santa Margarita 78^ Old Mission, San Miguel 282 Old Mission. San Antonio Kiver 24| Rio del Monterey 2G| Solida Mission 15| At the ford of the Rio del Monterey. MONTANA AS IT IS. 143 -MILFS. San Juan Mission 371 Pueblo de San Jose (town of San Jose) 83 San Francisco 75 The Queen of the Pacific. Total distance from Great Salt Lake City to Pueblo de los An- , gelos 772J. From there to San Francisco 464* Total distance from Great Salt Lake City to San Francisco 1237 ITINERARY OF THE ROUTE FROM FORT BRIDGER TO THE " CITY OF ROCKS," VIA THE " Hudspeth's cutoff,'' MILES, Fort Bridger to Little Muddy 9 Water bnicki.sh in pools along the creek. Very little gras.«(. A little sage for fuel, Ruml runs over a barren region ; is rough, and passes one steep hill. IJig Muddy Creek 121 The road, with the oxeeptiou of two or throe bad gullies, is good for ten miles ; it then follows the Big JMuddy" bottom, which is flat and boggy, and the camp is three niilos above the crossing. Some grass. Sage for fuel. Small Branch of Muddy 14^ Cross the river in three miles, at a bad ford. A mile above camp the grass is good. Koad generally good. N(» water. On Small Creek IQi Koad continues up the Muddy nine and a half miles to its head ; it then ascends the rim of the "Great basin," probably eight hundred feet in one and three fifths miles. Tiie descent on the other side is about the same, and the road pas.^os many fine springs. At one and two miles back, road passes many points of hills, where it is veiy rough. Gojd grass and sage at camp. Bear Kiver 8^%^ Bad creek to cross near camp. Thence to Bear l?ivor valley the road is good ; it then follows down the river, crossing Willow creek. Good camp at a very large spring. Bear River 17 Good road along the river. Plenty of -wood, water, and grass at all points. ■ -'.h ..' 144 MONTANA AS IT IS. ! '. . !: II- ■I ' r ir'i WLIS. SmithV Fork and Junction of SiiMette's Cutoff 2h This stream abounds in trout, weighing from two to five pounds. Good fuel and wood. There are two crossings at this stream : it is very bad to cross wlien high. Tliere was a bridge in I'ornier days, but I believe it is destroyed now. Tommaw's Fork G There is a bad slough about three miles back, which can be avoided by going around on the hills. There was a bridge across Tommaw's tbrk and one across a very miry slough, near the creek, but they were used up for firewood by a party of men from Oregon, who were ca\ight here by snow in the winter of 1^')9, and who, not knowing where they were, win- tered at this place, run out of provisions, eat up their horses and mules, and in March started on snowshoes toward Fort Hall. They all starved to , then ascends twrougli a canon to the lower end of CUy of Rocks, which is a great natural curiosity ; huge rocks of various strange and fanta-tic shapes standing scattered over a space of about three miles long and one wide. Poor grass here and no wood. Upper end of City of Rocks 3 Neither wood, water, nnr grass here. Junction of the Salt Lake Road 1 J At one and two fiftns miles from here a road eads off to the right to a S[)riiig branch three miles dist,":it, '^'here there is a good can.p near the foot of Goose creek moimtain. From this point CaliCornui travellers can refer to the itinerary of tlie route from (Jreat Salt Lake City to Sacramento city, California or t'j that loading to Honey lake and JVLirysvUle, or to that leading to Yreka and Rogue Jtiver valley. Total distance from Fort Bridger to City of Rocks -yiiyV Total distance from Soda springs to City of Rocks, known as the Hudspeth's cutotf 143 mXERAnV OF A NEW ROfTfi FROM FORT BRIDGER TO CAMP FLOYD, OPEN'- ED BY CAl'T. J. H. SIMPSON, IN 1«58. un.r.s. From Fort Bridger to Branch of Jilack's Fork G Wood, water, and grass. Cedar of Bhilfs of ISTuddy 7^ Grains and wood all the way up the ravine from Muddy, and V'liter at intervals. Last water in raviiie after heaving Muddy r^^ Wood, water, and grass. East lirnnch of Sulphur Creek 51 Wood, water, and grass ; junction of Fort Supply road. Middle Branch of Sulphur Creek ^ Sugo, water, and grass. West branch of Sulphnr Crock 3 Willows, water, and grass. Spring a mile below. East Branch of Bear River 5^ Wood, water, and grass. MONTANA AS IT IS, 147 '^5 3 14 »TTr H H Middle nranch of Bear River ..., "'' ' J' Wood, water, and grass. * Main Branch of Boar River ns Wood, water, and graps. ^ P'irst Camp on White Clay Creek q s Wood, water, and grass. * Wiiite Clay Creek . , Wood, water, and grass. White Clay Creek ; ^ ,. Good aunps all along the valley of Wiiite' Clay "c'reek. Commonceinont of Canon 3 Wood, water, and grass. White Clay Creek , Good camps all along the valley of "t'he' White Clay Creek to the end ot lower canon. Weber River jo ^Vood, water, and grass. I'arley'.s Park IJoad q Wood, water, and grass. Cross div'ule". Silver Creek o ■? Willows, water, and gra&s. ^ Timpanogos Creek /. Wood, water, and grass. Cross over the divide. Conini(>ncenient of Canon j Wood, water, and grass. Cascade in Canon 211 Good camp at short intervals all along 'J'impanogos cafioii." ' * ^ Mcuth of Canon 1 1 Wood and water. * Battle Creek Setllomont (>i Purchase lorage. * * American Fork Settlement f]l Purchase forage. Lehi (town) g I'urchasc forage. Grass near. Bridge oyov Jordan River 2 jf Grami md water. Wood iu tho hills one and a half miles distant. k !■ ":^ t 'II -I !^!l' 148 MONTANA AS IT IS. HIUB. Camp Floyd 14 Wood, water, and grass. Total distance from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd 155 Captain Simpson says this waL;on route is far superior to the old one in respect to wood, water, and grass ; the grade is also muck better, and the distance about the same. ITINEHAUY OF SUBLETTe's CUTOFF, FROM THE JUNCTION WITH THE SALT LAKE UOAD, AT DRY SANDY, TO WHERE IT INTERSECTS THE FORT BRIDGER ROAD, AT SMITH's FORK OF BEAR RIVER. muss- From Jimction to l?ig Sandy 7 Wood, water, and grass. Green Kiver From Big Sandy to Green River (upper road) . . 44 There is an abundance of gra!>s in j)laoes along the road, but no water. Good camp bn Green river. Groves of cotton- wood timber along the river. Fontenelle Creek G The road runs up the creek ; gooil grass ; willows for fuel. On Fontenelle Creek 4 Good grass and water ; willows for fuel. Small Spring (on tbe left of the road) 12 Goud {jrass, no wood. Ham's Fork, of Black's Fork 9 Good wood, WiUer, and grass. Spring (on the summit of a mountain) (} Good grass. Muddy Creek C Wooil, water, and grass. Spring (in Hear river valley) 10 (iood \vo(k1, water, and grass. S-r.ith's Fork of liear KMver C Here the road from l''(»rt Bridger (o City of lioeks coiner in, and those going to California can follow the itinerary for that route, which (hose going to Oregon can follow it to Soda springs, and from there toUow the itinerary for the route from Soda springs to Walla Walla and Oregon City, which will bo inserted in this book. Total distance from Dry Sandy to Smith's Fork 110 Hiusa. 14 155 MONTANA AS IT IS. j^g ITINERARY OP THE ROUTE PROM SODA SPRIXOs TO WALLA WALL. AKD OREGON CITV, OREGON, VIA PuRT HALL. From Soda Springs to Portneuf Creek. Tf ' Water and grass at two or three places* aiong [he iwi/but ni Koss's Fork Fort Hall Valley Hoad runs down the cre'ek.' ' 'oood Vamp. ^^ Snake Kiver Koad^ crosses tl^" riJer' l^lto;;; ' Spi;ndi;f graiJ/ plenty Vf ^ Fort Hall ^ots'' w" '''^''^' ;*''"^t';'e ; "panof iL; "bJiidi;,.; w;,;';wo '' rlK.r' ,{ r'S""'^ "''^''' ^''« ^ United States fort. Uood camp all along here. Crossing of Port Neuf Kiver jo Fordabl.- except in time of hig'h* water.' " (iood 'wood,' wiiie,' and grass. ' IJannack Creek I'lenty of wood, water and grass. American Falls, of Snake liivcr ,0 tJood camp. Kaft Kiver « Koad rough and rocky. Sage for fuel* ;* grass* scarce. Ucnd on Swamp Creek j.^ Grass scarce. On Sniike Kivor 2o K«.ad crosses Swamp and Goose creeks. ' 'Wood o"* the hills • very little grass. Kock Creek o- lii.ad crosses one small creek, and is very r. ig'h* iind rocky for several miles, when it enters n sandy region, where the grass IS scurce; sage plenty, and willows on the creek. Snake Kiver <, j Koad vrotHCB several srmdl branches. Tiiero is but little' 'nuss except in narrow patches along the river bottom. 150 MONTANA AS IT IS. ill Si ! [h ; »m.K9. Fip\iin? Falls 26 Road very crooked and rough, crossing two small streams. Snake Kiver 29 Kond crosses several small creeks, but leaves the main river to the north, and runs upou r.n elevated plateau. Good grass at camp. Snake River at the Ford 16 Koad very crooked. The ford is good in low water. Small I^ranch 19 Koad crosses Snake river at last camp, and follows up a small branch, leaving the river to the left. (Jood grass. Koad ascends a high plateau, which is kept during the whole dis- tance. Kiver " Aux Rochcrs" 26 Road passes hot sjjrings, and is rough and rocky ; but at camp wood, water, and grass, are abundant. Small Creek 22 Road crosses two small branchos, and is very rough and rocky. AVot)d, water, aiwl grass, plenty. Boise River 23 Road crosses one small ''reek, and follows along the IJoiso river. Good wood, water, and grass. Fort r)oise 28 Road follows the south bank of lioi^-e river to the fort, where road crosses the river. Good ford at ordinary s(;iges. Grass good in tilt! river bottoms. Tliis was a 1 Imlsotrs Bay Com- pany fort, but was abandoned about Wn years ago. The United States government established a military post here in 1803, which " is still there." River " Aux Mathews" 20 Good road ; plenty of coarse grass, wood and \\atcr ph'uty. Snake River 27 Koad passes over a ro\jgh country. Gras.s scarce and of a poor quality. Road crosses Snake river here; no ford. 'J'here is a ferry established here since the discovery of the gold mines in JJoise basin. liurnt River 20 Road leaves Snake river and crosses Kurnt river, and follows , up the north bank to the camp. 'I'hc country n mountainous ami rough ; but there is plenty oi' good grass, and there is wood along the river. MONTANA AS IT IS 151 2G 23 20 27 20 Burnt Kiver Small Branch inus. It 1, .still rough, but is getting bettor, (^.ood i,vrass. Mll.KS. ')0 Powder I?ivor. . . . Goo,i r„,„i : pasj. piontj'.' ' Thore (..'uo 1,;;;, 'n.^i ,ii',;..i;;; ;,;;. i;{ Creek, lioad passes a divide crossing soyovi^ "sn;;]] Vtivauii/^nd 'ii ' smooth, with plenty of grass and fuel. 20 21 Creek Koad crosses one small' Im^ch/ind' 'is 'nuiu.;. '.iJiH," " 'tJ.; grass and fnel are abundunt. ^ Creek Boa.l follows down the creek foV ton ' n".i*los" " il'ien ' iuv'm no' •x small branch and is good. There is plenty 'of arJZ u-i J iiore are sottlen.ents all along the road fro.ii Anlinrn tn ()ro'!'n eityat this tune, and new mhies are constaiiiiy lain- di^. covered. -^ ^ Branch Boad crosses a divide, and strikes' jinother bram'h. Small Branch of the ITinatilla Biver ( iood road, with plenty of wood aiid'grass. Branch of the Walla Walla liivcr ^^'ood, water, and grass. " ' Walla Walla ]?ivcr ^Vood, water, and grass. Columbia KMvcr at Old Fort Walla Walla •, AVooil wat(T, and grass. Butler's Creek ( Jood camp. Wells Spring «« rjood camp. Willow Creek ] o Good camp. Cedar S|)ring in Good camp. 12 10 IS 10 ;)• . '■ ' •(1 ■■r ' 152 MONTANA AS IT IS. MILES. ' li' ii I fU t , -■ii'f ■■■ : Of ^ John Day's Kiver 6 Good camp. Forks of Uoad 5 No cam{)iiig here. Left-hand road for wagons, and right for pack trains. This itinerary takes the left. Ouley's camp 10 Good camp. " Eiviere des Chutes" (Kiver of the Falls) 19 Good camp. Fall River 6 Good camp. Utah's River 10 Good camp. Riviore des Chutes 18 Good camp. Rivit're des Chutes G Good camp. Road follows up the river, crossing it several times. Sand River Fork IG Good grass a mile and a half to the left of the road. Good camp 8 Royal Hill Camp 15 Good camp. Sandy River 7 liut little grass. Down the river 45 Good camp all the distance. Oregon City 25 (iood camps all the way. Sal em /o Good camps all the distance. Totiil distance from Leavenworth to Soda springs 1,108 Total distance from Suda springs to Oregon City 879 Total distance from Fort Leavenworth to Oregon City 1,987 MONTANA AS IT IS. 153 . 10 . 19 , 6 10 18 G I 16 ITINERARY OP THE ROUTE FROM FORT LFji:fEyWORTH TO HONEY LAKE VALLEY (east FOOT OF THE SIERRA NErADA, ON THE NOBLE CUTOFF ), VIA SAUNDERS CUTOFF. UILES. From Fort Leavenworth to Fort Kearney 294 From Fort Kearney to Fort Laramie 335 From Fort Laramie to Gilbert's Station (South Pass) 270 Total distance from Fort Leavenworth to Gilbert's Station 899 For full particulars of the route to this point, travellers can refer to the itinerary of the route from Fort Leavenworth to Great Salt Lake City, From Gilbert's Station to Aspen Hut 3| Good grass and water. If the grass has been eaten off by the Salt Ljike trains, go to Long'sCreek 2\ Here you have a good camp, the grass on the hills being excellent. Willows on the creek. fronKiiiberrs Qi'iiking-Asp Grovc, a short distance to the left, sttttiou. near which is some tir timber. Gravel bottom in M1I.E8. the creek. Good crossing. 7T»J|y From Long's Creek to Clover Creek 2-i2Jj Good gniss and water. lljhs From Clover Creek to Garnet Creek 3^^ Good grass. Aspen timber. From tliis creek to the Sweetwater, it is a rolling country, with fine bunch-grass. Pine timber as you approach the river. iGygjy From Garnet Creek to Sweetwater Crossing ^-i^a You will find this a good camp. Fine grass and heavy fir timber a short distance up the creek to the right. 17t^oV From Sweetwater Crossing to Poor's Creek iVVo Good grnss nnd tine timber to the left of the road, The ri)ad follows up this creek for nine miles. Good camps all along. 29t»oV l''''0'» Poor's Creek to Little Sandy Creek llyVff Good grass. Plenty of lir timber. 83^jj. From Little Sandy to Anteli»po Meadows 4 This is a largo grass plain, named from the num- ber of antelope found in this vicinity. 154 MONTANA AS IT 13. I' Jit MORS. 34 '^~^- Qft r, o 47 7. -5 *'Too C6flV 71 , Si 2 TO *i'-_ 85 95t^ From Antelope ^leadows to l>in:-IIolo of Bip; Sandy. Tliis is a large valley, with plenty of grass and tir timber. From 15ig-Hole to Crossing of Big Sandy Hard gravelly road, with many steep pitches the last one in particular. To go down to the river is very steep. Good grass and plenty of wood. From Big Sandy to Grass Springs No wood but sage. Fine grass and water. From Grass Springs to New Fork of Green Kiver. . Tlie distance between camps can be shortened by striking towards a clump of timber to the right, where there is good camping. Tlien by following down the stream to the left, a short distance, you strike the road at the crossing, which is good, Tliore is a large island in the centre, and the stream on each side is from twenty to tliirty yards wide. In the S[)ring it is from three to four feet deep in each channel, and you had better raise your wagon-beds by setting blocks on the bolsters. 'J'lie feed is good, and there is timber on the island and western bank. From New Fork to Green IJiver From Green river crossing, which is fordable, ex- cept in time of very liigh water, you can strike soutii, and in four miles come to Piney creek near its mouth, where there are good grass and timber. This, however, can only be done late in the season, for in the spring it is marshy, and you had better keep the main road. From Green Kiver to White Clay Civek Tiiere is plenty of alkali on its banks — but clear running water in the creek, which is small and without even u willow along its banks, nor is there any grass. From White Clay Creek to liitter-Root Creek Good grass and water, with large willows for fuel. This is a Hue large stream twenty-live or thirty yards wide ; swift and shallow, with gravel bottom. From Bitter-Uoot Creek to North Fork of the Piney. Jlolling country, covered with sage-brush. Largo willows on the creek ; and one mile to the left, lir and Cottonwood timber, MTUfi. 1 an 8tMV 1 fi "^ R T ,'> 1 8 ''^^^ lOfW MONTANA AS IT IS. 155 Mrua. ^(Ar OS-rVcr From North Fork to IMkl.Uo Fork of Piney Canon, s""'^* Sage-bru.sh country ; grass along the crocks. 99yV\T Fi'om Middle Fork to Mouth of Piney Canon 1 r.4 Piney creek is a good-sized creek of pure icQ-c^'old ^ ""^ water running very swift over a rocky ])ed. The canon, which is about seven miles long, is from one (luai-ter to one and a half miles wide ; there is tolerable grass in the cailon. 10"to% From ISIouth of Canon to Piney Fort 7 ui The road through the canon crosses the creek eigiit ^ " '^ times ; all good crossing. You will find sevend good camps in the canon between its mouth and Piney fort You had better lay over at Piney fort and recruit your stock, as you have a block-house and corral, while the country beyond is thickly timbered, which will render it necessary for you to move as rapidly as jjossible over to {-'alt n .er. It is also necessary to keep careful watch of yo ^r stock, to prevent their straying in the woods d becoming lost. It is over thirty miles through this timber. After leaving Piney fort the x-oad passes over a ridge, and crosses a small crcjk in half a mile ; thence across a bad mountain La Barge creek. 112-j7j^^ From Piney Fort to Labarge Creek .5 i :> This to a large creek running very swift over a rocky bed. Tlie road follows up the creek foi- half a mile, then crosses and passes along a low ridge for a short distance, where it strikes crossing of Small creek. ll'''^To*V From Labarge to crossing of Small Creek 2^'^-''- "^"^''WA From Small Creek to another Small Creek ^4^-1^ Good grass and wood. 11'3't^A From Small Creek to Spring Branch in valley 1 i-iL. ll^ToiT From Si)ring Bnnich to Labarge Valley ho Good gniss on hills to the right. ll^-jYV From Labarge Valley to junction of Labarge and Spring Creek It A The road from this point lies over a mountainous country, but is not rocky. 122,-\3j Fi-om Spring Creek to Branch of Smith's Fork of Bear Kiver m 1 ou cross over a ridge of mountams before you 156 MONTANA AS IT IS. MILES. MILES. Im t 'f 1^1 00 133t7^<\; 137J5„o_ i^Sj\\ 14Wo l^'J^o'o 152t1^ Hi -■ i; 158t13«,- IGOv^J',- reach this branch ; you then go down one branch and up another, one mile and three fourtlis, to camp. The grass is tolerably good among the tim- ber. From Branch of Smith's Fork to Smith's Fork 7^^% A narrow valley, nearly covered with thick wil- lows. Some grass on the hills. Down Smith's Fork to Crossing of Little Beaver Creek 2y^ The road crosses the creek four times, and there are some bad mud-holes. Some grass on the liills. From Little Beaver Creek to Spring, near top of Mountain 1 ^SJI^ A Ultle grass, plenty of wood. From Spring to Head of Salt River Valley 3yV,V Some grass and plenty of wood. From Head of Valley to Crossing of Salt River. . . lyoTJ Gravel bottom. Some grass and plenty of wood. The road follows down the valley. From Crossing of Salt River to Crossing of Small Creek 2f\o^ The valley widens, and is covered with as good bunch grass as there is in the world. This is the most beautiful valley I have yet seen in the Roci mountains. The Indians, however, say that it u very cold in the winter, and that the snow falls very deep. There is plenty of tine trout in the river and its branches. From Spring Creek to Second Crossing of Salt i^'ver S^s^V Good crossing. Glorious grass and water ; plenty of wood. From Second Crossing to West Branch of Salt ^I^iver i^ Good grass and wood, but rather poor water. Tlie valley at this point is about four miles wide. From West liranch to Smoke Creek (^-^ch At the mouth of the canon, road crosses the crook ani enters a cauon cne mile and a quarter long. From Smoke Creek to Red Willow Creek 2 Good grass, wood convenient. MONTANA AS IT IS. 157 MILES. rnisa. „ 163 Jt« From Red Willow Creek to Salt Bottom o " Some salt springs deposit large quantities of salt here (for farther particulars see Note 47). Some grass. Here the road leaves the valley and as- cends a bench, crossing several spring branches. 167^__«^ From Salt Bottom to Kinikinick Canon 4 Canon one mile lorig, cross creek twice. 170tAA. From Kinikinick Canon to Noon Creek ^-j-^ * Before reaching this creek you cross seven sniall spring branches and two small creeks. 172y'-»- From Noon Creek to Flat Valley Creek 2^*^^ ' Here the country opens out into low rolling ridges covered with grass, and no timber. 174 7_4^ From Flat Valley Creek to another Creek l-[^o ""' Good grass all along here, but little wood. 176t3-7_ From Small Cresk to Creeks in Large Grass Val- ^^ ley l"o t> 'J'here is a lake in this valley known as John Gray's lake, which is several miles long, and is marshy around the edges ; it is the home of mj riads of ducks and geese, but the sliores are so marshy that it is dillicult to get within reach of them. You travel along the valley on the edge of tlie lake, crossing two slues. At the end of the v-alley you come to a creek which is a branch of Otter Creek. 187 v^-^- From Large Valley Creek to brunch of Otter Spring Creek ^"i '^" Fine fi^rass but not much wood. 1 o^ « 2_ From Branch to Otter Spring Creek ^-t\ys ^"" Good grass and water, plenty of wood in some quaking-asp groves, to right of road. 19G 4 7_ From Otter Spring Creek to Spring-in-Valley Ty^^'V "^^ " Tlie water is brackisli, good grass, no wood. 197 34 From Spring-in-Valley to Branch of Blackfoot ^^ Creek ; T^^*^ Good grass and water, but no wood. 1 00^ »- From Branch to Blackfoot Creek at the Ford ..... l^J'^ ^^'" Tlie crossing is good, tine grass, but not much wood i you ascend to a bench here, and leave tlio river to your right. 158 MONTANA AS IT IS. Mil I' ri ilfi! MTLER. 204^g^ 20S^Vo- 210,Vo 215T^=ff 217W\> 218t\,V 228t^J^j 229t4,«^ 230tVo 342tVo- HILEH. 244t«o 252xV(r From Blackfoot Creek to Granite Creek 3^^^ Good grs\ss, willows on the creek, no other wood. From Granite Creek to crossing of the Same 1 Wo From crossing to Point where the Road leaves Black- foot River ^^^u From where Road leaves IJlaokfoot to Thistle Creek, l/o'^j Good grass, road crosses two small creeks; no wood but there is a small grove of quaking asps one mile to the right. From Thistle Creek to Head of Port Neuf River 4^^ Quaking Asp grove and good grass at the crossing. From Head of Port Neuf to Junction of this and Soda Springs Road ^^^s From Junction of Roads to Entrance of Canon. . . . 1t\j^ Good grass but not much wood ; a spring branch runs through the canon which is three fourtlu^ of a mile long. From Entrance of Canon to Small Stream coming in from Left ^^''i^ From Small Stream to Two Small Streams, Branches of Ross Fork dj\'',j Good grass, but very little wood. From Two Small Streams to Junction with Sub- lette's Cutoff j%\ Cross small branch in one eighth of a mile. From Junction of Roads to Ross' Fork lyViJ 'J olerable good feed, and plenty of wood. Road crosses the creek and enters a canon about one and a half miles long. From Ross' Fork to Snake River Valley, and Forks of Road U^^Ja Some grass and willows for wood. Take the left- hand road to bridge on Ross' fork ; the right goes to old Fort Hall, which is now deserted and in ruins. From Forks of Road to Bridge on Ross' Fork ^fjh Good road and tolerable grass ; willows for wood. From Bridge on Ross' Fork to Bridge on Port Neuf River 8 Fort Hall in sight to the right. Port Neuf moim- tains to the left. Fine grass, but little timber in the valley. MONTANA AS IT IS. 159 1 ToTT HUES. "•'^Too 253^7-% 263t''-2- 274t'a_ 27GT-y, To 280 *''-'^l 288^Vo- 291^^0^- 299t\«,- 802tV(j UTLE8, From Tort Neuf Bridge to Stream in Port Neuf Valley ,2J3_ From Stream to a Slough -jAj-j From Slough to Koad irom F'ort Hall j%\ From where Fort Hall road comes in to where it turns off again, going to Salt Lake ^ixf'ii Good level road all along here. From Fort Plall and Salt Lake J?oad to Bannack Cieek 6r%% Good grass ; willows for wood. From liannack Creek to Irvine's Old Fort ^tv% From Irvine's Old Fort to Big Spring ^i^-oii At all of the ahove points you touch Snake river, and have good grass and wood. This spring is is aixtut thirty feet wide, and is found by innu- merable small ones. From Big Spring to American Falls of Snake Biver. l-iVo You keep along the river, and one mile farther on, cross a deep ravine. 1'imbcr along here. From American Falls to Crossing of a Creek ^tot; From Crossing of a Creek to Cro.«sing of another Creek li^ From Crossing of Creek to a Bavine -^q^ Bocky island here in the river ; fine grass ; some fir timber. In the next three miles you cross three ravines, with timber and grass. From Bocky Island Bavine to Crossing of a Creek. 5^^^,% Timber and grass. You cross a ravine in half a mile. From Crossing of a Crock to Fall Creek 2yVj Steep bank on the west side ; timber and grass. From Fall Creek to where the Boad leaves Snake Biver -rilTr Here the Oregon road turns off down Snake river, while the California river bears to the right. From where Road leaves Snake Biver to Baft Biver C^Vxr • First crossing ; good grass ; willows for wood. From First Crossing to Second Crossing 3^%"^ Good grass. 160 MONTANA AS IT IF nil mLES. 32GtV.t 320tV^ *>Qn 9 8_ 341tP^^7 344-^^0 34ot^ HILKH. 357fjt,T SG4tb»Tr 38GVbV 398i^>^, 404^^'^ 423 From Second Crossing to Third Crossing HiViT Grass and willows. From Third Crossing to Junction with Hudspeth's Cutoff St^^V From Junction to Crossing of Small Creek ^-^Jo Grass and willows. Hoad crosses two small streams within next half a mile. From Crossing of Small Creek to Forks of Raft ^''^^> ;: 2t%^ Good grass. Willows for wood. From the F'orks to Crossing of Creek IO-j^tmi Got d grass ; no timber. From Crossing to Small Creek 2 From Small Creek to Entrance of Kooky Canon. . . 2-i^y'^j This canon is three quarters of a mile lo;ig. From Entrance of canon to " City of Kocks" l-i^tni Good grass and camn ground on a small spring branch ; for the first the emigration, but no grass towards the last, About two miles faither on is the junction of this and the Salt Lake road. From " City of Rocks" to Gn...ite Springs 12 A round granite " butte," and north of it good grass and wafer. The road from here to the top of the mountain is good, but great care mut be taken going down to Goose creek. From Granite Springs to Goose Creek ^tViT Keep your eyes skinned hero for Indians, lielow the ruiid is a good camp, and all the wa)' up Goose creek. From wiiere you strike Goose Creek, up the Creek. 2'2^^(^^ Good grass and water at the head of Goose creek, and a camp road leads to the N. W. to some sj)rings in a large op'Uj space, with bottom-grass. liuncii- grass is .«carco. From Head of Goose Creek to Kock Sjjring 12 fV^ Wat<'r good, but grass only for the llrst of the emi- gration, itaiher bud hill to ascend on leaving (iroosc creek. From Kock Spring to Cold Spring ^^\ Deep wells, with some grass. IJunch grrss on the hills. Fronj Cold Spring to Hot Siirlng Creek IH^Va This is in the upper part of Thousur''-Spring vni- i MONTANA AS IT IS. 161 waja. mug. ley. About nine miles from Cold Spring is abun- dant grass, and a small spring close to the road. The other water in sloughs contains alkali, and avoid using it. Hot Spring creek, with its upper part, has good water and grass. There are a tew rocky places on the dividing ridge this side of Humboldt wells. 437^^*0 1^J'<^>«" Il^t Spring Creek to Humboldt Wells 14^^^% Good water, good bottom, and bunch grass. A hot spring and some rocky places and crossings in Humboldt canon. ^•iliVo t'l'om Humboldt Wells to a point in Humboldt C'auon 4 P^rom this place the road runs along the river to Lawson's Meadows, only leaving it sometimes to avoid canons or soft bottoms. Grass is abundant, and the running water good ; but care must be taken that the animals do not drink out of sIoujiIls, which, in the latter part of the season, contain alkali. Horses and mules are somotimcs, fiom the use of this water, subject to a peculiar dis- ease, causing a swelling of the neck and breast. The best preventative is to put rowels in the breast, jiiid keep the wounds open. If any signs of swell- ing appears, biu'n with an iron three or fo> cars, deep and long, along the neck and breast, and keep them open with blistering plaster. I was assured by many mountaineers tha(. this is a safe prevent- ative and sure euro Th« y^ad is good. 4(i4^»yV From Hund)oldt Canon to Bishop's Creek 22^V(T CJood crossing. 4^'>Toi7 I'^fom r.ishop's Creek to North Fork of the Hum- bohit 20i»ifV Good crossing. riny^x^ From North Fork to Fremont's Canon 32 Gravel bottom, but rocks in bed of the river. 52«>Wij From Fremont's Canon to IMagpio Creek 0^^^ Jleforo crossing IMaupie creek, a small stream has to by forded. Both have grass and good water. The road here leaves 'ho river and pa3.sos ovtu' the lulls to Crravelly ford. There are some springs clo.so to tlio road among tlie.so hills, and in I ho early p:irt of the season, good grass and plenty of it. The road has some steep and roiky places, nnd sonic steep grades going down to G ravelly ford. u f ! ■■■■Si '•i rl 162 MONTANA AS IT IS. VILEa. §' m I. ■! '. ( V 3 "To 613iVd 019.'^,+ loo 636 iVj 680-.''' ■* 685^-J, GOTiiJ, From Mngpie Creek to Grfivelly Ford Grazing ground up and down the river, with good grass atul wood. The Humboldt runs, about five miles farther down, through a canon ; tlieroforo, the road goes over the hills. Look sharp i'or In- dians all along here, for many a poor emigrant has been killed in this vicinity. From Gravelly Ford over the Hills KtUES. 1 o n(j_ From Camp to Stony Point Good road, good grass, and wood. Indians are always in this neigiiborhooil huntinji; and fish- 10 20 ing; therefore, keep awake. From Stony Point to Foot Hills on the Pi-Utah Line Fine springs on the hillside, with good grass. The valli'y to the north is covered wi».i sage-brush and scanty grass. IJefore rej'ching the hills, you pass some sloughs with bad water. From Foot Hills, over the Hills Good road. This is now the country of the Pi- IJtcs, a friendly tribe, .eeldom committing depreda- tions ; but it is well to keep an eye on them, for Indians arc " mighty onsartain." From over the Hills to Hend on Kiver at Tutt's Meadows At the bend a small branch comes in. The lower crossing is sometimes muddy ; the upper is good. From Tutt's Meadows to Lassen's Meadows, some- times called Little Meadows Abundant grass both on the upper and lower part. 1 advise all emigrants to rest hero a few days, and to cut grass and take along for though water may be hud from here to Honey Lake, the grass in the latter part of tlic season is dried up and scarce. From Upper to Lower Knd of Lassen's Mt'adows. . Glorious camping places along here lor tired, w«)rnont stock. It is boat to leave iho meadows taking the right hand road and go to Antelope springs to camp. From Lassen's Meadows to Antelope SprinjiB Kxcellent water, but grass is scarce, and sage- chickens plenty. The road is good over rolling hillH to Kabbit spring wells. 38 77 44 4 no *loO 12 r MONTANA AS IT IS. 163 WIJRS. 712,7 n_ 731-^*^ 7401^0^ 75G,^'V 772t^»^ 782 iVo 708,-*^ MaES. From Antelope Springs (o Rabbit Spring Wells 15 t-;,. Very Utile grass, water in wells for cooking pur- "" pesos, but stock has to be watered with l)iickets ; there is not sufficient for a large train. The road is good to Hot spring from here. A short dis- tance fi-om here the road forks ; the right hand one going to Kogue I?iver valley, Oregon, and to Yreka, California ; the left, which this itineraiy follows, goes to Honey Lake valley. From Rabbit Spring AVcIls to Hot Spring 18-j\,\ There is a little wire grass here. Animals may be watered here. There is a beautiful road from here lo Cxranite creek, over the perfectly level bottom of Mud lake; this part of whicii is dry, except iti the spring. The hot spring is on the eastern edge of the lake. From Hot Spring to Granite Creek l^i^'V Good cold water, and good grass along up the caiion of the creek. From Granite Creek to Large lioiling Spring l-jVfr Remarkable for its great size and heat. Very little grass, and no wood. From Large Hoiling Spring to Deep Hole Springs. . 7-j2,,f^j A pertL'Ct oasis in the desert. Large running springs of pure ice-cold water. Abundance of grass and wood. From Deep- Mole Springs to Buffalo Springs IG Good water in om Lassen's Meadows to Rogue River Valley, or to Yreka. 310 From Yreka to Shasta City 122 From Shasta City to Sacramento City 180 Total distance from Leavenworth to Sacramento, via Yreka . . . 2,226 ITINERARY OF THE WAGOX ROAD FROM DENVER CITY, AT THE MOUTH OF CHERRY CREEK ON THE SOUTH I'LATTE, TO FORT BRIDGER, UTAH. Knia From Denver City to Vasques Fork 5 Good road and line camp. From Vasqucz Fork to Thompson's Fork I91 The roail crosses three creeks, about five miles apart, and is good. There is plenty of water and grass at camp, but very little wood. From Thom|>son's Fork to Bent's Fork 16A The road ero>ses two streams, about live miles apart. There is no wood on the lirst one. Good camp. From Rent's Fork to a Creek 10 Good camp and good road. BVom that Stream to another one 13 The road is good, and here is an excellent camp. To Catche la Rondre River 3 Tiie Caed. There is a good camp at Green river, A'ith plenty of wood and grass. To First Crossijig of Black's Fork l.'jj The road rutis up Rabl)it hollow whore you leave Green river, and is steep and sandy ; it then passes over rolling prairie to Black's fork. Some bunch-grass on the hills, and u very good camp at the crossing. fi • 170 MON'i'ANA AS IT 18. ; ^ till! - r m To Seiond Crossing and Fort Laramie Roatl Good road over a rolling country, with occasional patches of ?ago. (iood camps along the creek at second crossing. To Ham's Fork Bridge 5^ Good road and good camps up and down the creek. Free hridge. To Third Crossing of Black's Fork $ Koud crosses a high ridge. The ford is good except when the creek is high, when it is best to take a road which goes up the right bank, and avoids all the crossings. To Fourth Crossing of Black's Fork 14^ Good road, tine camps, good wood, water, and grass. To Fifth Crossing of Black's Fork 2f Good road and a good camp. To Smith's Fork 2f Good road but very little grass. To Fort Bridgcr 11^ Good road and good camps near by. Total distance from Denver to Fort Bridger 426 -I t ITINERAIIY OF THE ROUTE FROM ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA, TO FORT WALLA WALLA, IN WASHINGTON TERKITORY. T'lial Dist. liDm St. Paul. Mii-KS. Fiom St. Paul to Small Brook 17^ Wood, water, and grass, are abundant, as far as the '' Bois de KSioux" river. 37^ From Small Brook to Cow Creek 20^ This stream is crossed on a bridge. GO J From Cow Creek to Small Lake, North of the Road 23^^ The road passos over a rolling prairie, and crosses Elk river on a bridge. 77^ From Small L.ko to near Sauk Rapids 1*" The road cro.s.-es Elk river twice on bridges, Missis- sippi I'iver is near. no I From near Sauk Rapids to " Russell's" 18 Ferry acro.^s the Missis.sippi river, then follow the Rod River trail ; camp is on a cold-spring branch. ;? T MONTANAASITIS. lyj Mn,l!8. 101 1 To another Spring Branch .... Before reaching this camp you cross sVuk ;i'v;;;one 'hur - ' drecl yards wide and four and a half feet deep. 12 1 1 From Spring Branch to Lake Henry . . in. (jood camp and good road. 2 HO From Lake Henry to Lightning Lake 133 ^er'dS'"''' '^''''' '" '' ^"'"^ '''''^' '^''^''' ^^"'' '^'^''^' " ^' ^ lo7| To a Lake ^^ One mile from Eed River trail pass White" Bear lake." " * 1G7 To Pike Lake ^^^ Pass the south branch of ti.e"c"hippevvay" ri*v"er "; "r'oad ^ runs over rolling prairie and crosses a small branch. 18G^ To Small Lake ^r)i Cross Chippeway river in a boat." "Koad" passes 'many small lakes and the grass is excellent. 196 To another Small Lake 93 Koad passes over rolling prairies and 'crosses' 'liabbi't river. 223 To " 15ois do Sioux" Kivor 27 Koad (grosses " Bois do Sioux" prairie," rdiing*."o"mitry." 234 To Wild Rice Kiver 1^ Koad crosses " Bois de Sioux" river," seven tyVeet "wide and from four to seven feet deep, with muddy bottom and banks. Wood, water, and grass, at all camps between here and Maple river. 2381 To Small Creek 4, Road crosses Wild Rice river on a bridge. 2Go To Cheyenne River op i Smooth prairie country. 281^ To Maple Kiver Iq. (^rosH Cheyenne river on a bridge, aud several branches". 301 J 'I'o Small Creek 20 Good road ; no wood. 321^ To Pond 20 Wet and marshy, many ponds in sight no wood. 33G1 To Pond I5 Approaching Cheyenne river. No wood. I !' 172 MONTANA AS IT IS. 4 w f:-, ^^-i' I • -M Miles. 350 357 3G7 3771 39 ^a 415| 437J 469 4851 503^ 5194 534i To Clievenne River 13i Prairie more roHinjT. Camp in the river bottom. I'ltiily of wood, water, and grass. To Slough 7 JJoad crosses Clieycnne, river, fifty feet wide and three and a half feet deep. No wood. To a Lake 10 KoUiii;! prairie, with many marshes. Wood, water, and grass. To I»ond 10^ Low wet prairie, with plenty of water and grass, but no wood. To ^Iar?h \S\ Smooth prairie, generally dry. To Riviere a Jajrges 20 Smooth prairie, with marshes. The road crosses the river several times. Wood, water, and grass. To Pond 21^ Hilly and marshy prairie, with small ponds and no wood. To Small Branch 12 Marshy praiiie, filled with ponds, with a thin short grass and no wood. To Lake 19| On a high knoll. Road crosses the south fork of the Cheyenne ; good crossing. Thence rolling prairie, passing " Butte dc Morale," also a narrow lake four and a half miles long. To Pond 16| Marshy prairie, ponds, and knolls. Cross a small lake at seven and three quarter miles. No wood. To I'ond Rolling prairie. Cross Wintering river, a deep muddy stream, one hundred feet wide ; also muddy prairies and ponds. No wood. To Small Stream 16 A tributary of INIouse river. The road skirts the val- ley of Mouse river, crossing tlie ravine near their heads. To Pond 154 Undulating prairie, with occasional marshes. The 171 MONTANA AS IT IS. 173 wasa. 554| 574| 5004 6091 632| G'-iGk 6704 692| 699 705 720^ 7301 741i MILES. road tlien turns up the hijili ridge called tlie « Grand Coteau," wliic'li is the dividing ridge between the Mis- siissfippi and Miifsouii, and between Ked river of the Nortii and the latter. No wood. T« T^-ake 201 lldly road approaching " Grand Coteau." No wood. To Lake 20 Rolling prairie ; smooth, good road ; no wood. To Pond 151 Road passes "Grand Coteau" at eleven miles, and ^ runs between two lakes. No wood, but plenty of " bois de vache," or l)utfalo chips, for fuel. To Uranch of White Earth River 191 Country rolling and hilly. The road passes wood eight miles from camp. To Vond 231 For two miles the road passes over a low, flat country, after whieh the country is hilly. No wood. To l*ond 231 Rolling and hilly country, with rocky knobs; at ^ eigliteen miles cross branch of Muddy creek, fifteen feet wide. Wood in various places near this stream. No wood at camp. To Pond 20 Rolling coinitry ; at eleven miles there is water in a ravine. To the left is more water, but the country is rough. No wood. To Fort Union, on the Missouri River IGi Ro.id passes over lut:h, linn prairie, and descends a hill to the fort. Good grass near in the hills. To Pond gl Good grass, but no wood. To Little Muddy River 6 Good camp. To a Creek I51 Wood, water, and grass ; two good camps between this camp and the last. To Big Muddy River IQ Drift wood for fuel. To Majsh, near the Missouri River 11 Good camp. 174 MOiJTANA AS IT IS. 1IILB8. 4 IDLES. 759^ To Poplar River 18 Good camp. One or two good camps between this and last camp. 783 To Creek near JNIissouri River 23 J Good camp. 798 To Slough near the Missouri 15 Good camp. 8151 To Milk River ... 17| One good camp passed. 829 To Milk River m Several good camps passed. 84Gi To Milk River 17^ G : )d canip. 8G() To Milk River 19J Several good cumps passed. 883| To Milk IJivor, at the Crossing 17| The road Inllows a trail on the bluffs, and descends to the river again. 891 J To a Lake 7^ No wood ; grass and water plenty. 903| To INIiik River, Second Crossing 12^ (iood camp. 915| To Milk Hivor 12 G(Jod cr.nip. 921 J To Milk Riv... 15J Good cnraps along here. 932 T( Milk Jlivcf lOf viood !;!inip, 952 T( Milk K'.v^r 20 tiood camp. 9G8 'I o Milk Hiver 10 Good camp. 980 To Rulk Riv.i, at the Third Crossing 18 Gocd camp. 993 J To Rrat."h of Milk River 7 J Good Ctjmp. 1011 To Jiranoh of K'Ak River 17^ Several good camj)« betweon this and laai "amps. 1019 IJninch ..f Milk River 6 Good camp. MONTANA AS IT I 175 HILES 1038^ To Prairie Spring joi No wood ; water and grass plenty. 1052 To Teton Kivor jg. An excellent camp-road crosses Marias river. " lOGO^ To Teton l^iver, near Fort Benton gs Good camp. This is one of the American Fur Com- * pany's po.4s, and never was a II. S. fort. It is on the Missouri river, abont tliirty miles below the (Jreat Falls. Lienteiiant Mullan, U. S. A., constructed a military road from tl :-, point to Walla Walla, and itniorarios of the route may he ha4 at Fort Ikniton, but at this time it is not nf?<'essary to have one, as there are settlers at short distances along th,; entire route. The distance is six hundred and eighteen miles, and the road piisses tln-ough some of the most beautilul valleys the sun ever shone upon, and which are capable of sus- taining a very dense population, and are known to be rich ill minerals of all kin Js. KKCAriTULA'llON. Total distance from St. Paul to Fort Henton 1003 Total liistance fium Fort 15eiiton to VVaUa Walla. . . . . . (118 Total disiancc from St. Paul to Walla Wadti 1C81 Km