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 Cs^nadia^n V J)i^ei Fie V Rg^i Iv/ay 
 
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rOR PRIVATg CIRCULATION. 
 
 ^ [loLIDAY YrIP 
 
 VIA 
 
 THB CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. 
 
 SrKNK. — The Station of the Canadian Pacific Railway, Montreal, 27th June, 1888. 
 Hour, 20 o'clock (S i).ni.) 
 
 Cab No. I drives up and deposits an Anglican parson, carrying a walking-stick, 
 portmanteau and satchel — first on the ground — Dean Carniichael. 
 
 ('al) \o. 2 drives up and dejiosiis another Anglican parson, carrying light overcoat, 
 liurtinanleau and sundry satchels — second on the ground— Canon Empson, Secretary 
 of the Diocese of Montreal. 
 
 Cab No. 3 drives up and de|io>its two lay gentlemen, well luggaged — Mr. Richard 
 White, of Montreal, Manager of the (Ia/itti; Printing Co., and Mr. Wm. White, Q.C., 
 of Sherbrooke. 
 
 It is plain, from the greetings, that these gentlemen meet by appointment, and 
 f'(|ually plain that they constitute a party about to take the longest continuous railway 
 trip that can be taken, namely, from Montreal, on tlie St. Lawrence, with its tides from 
 the Atlantic, to lUirrard Inlet, llritish Columbia, whose tides roll in from the Pacific ; 
 thence down the inlet by steamer to Vi( toria, the capital of Vancouver Island — an 
 island on whose further shore one can stand with the hapi>y thought that nothing lies 
 between him and Japan or ('hina, save the deep blue sea. 
 
 At the start of the journey, some formal business was informally trans;u ted. Mr. 
 Richard White was unanimously appointed guide, ('hancellor of the Excheipier and (len- 
 eral Tratfic Manager of the party; Mr. W. White. (^.C, was appointed Judge of the 
 Supreme (-ourt. in order to decide any (piestiims of a legal character that might arise 
 during the journey; Dean (,'armichael was appointed .Secretary, taking notes of travel, 
 which it was luianimously agreed should be printed, at the expense of the (ieneral 
 Manager, for i)rivate distribution : and Canon Kmpson was appointed the friend and 
 (onipanion of all concerned. It was also agreed that, as far as practicable, the party 
 should keep together, on the distinct understanding that the utmost freedom should 
 be allowed to all. After the transaction of this business, the Manager and the Judge 
 
A HOLIDAY TRIP VIA 
 
 
 disappeared into the smok- 
 in}{-ro(jni at tlie end of the 
 car, and the clerical mem- 
 bers went to bed. 
 
 lor the benet'it of friends 
 in the Mother Country into 
 wiiosc hands thisrecortl may 
 fall, it is necessary to say 
 - something' about the two 
 tlioiisand nine lunuirednnle 
 railroatl on whi« h we travel- 
 led, the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway — < onunonly called 
 •• ihe C. V. R." 
 
 When I came to this 
 country, in 1X51), Canada 
 was ])racti(ally confined to 
 the Konntry watered by the 
 j;re.il River Si. bawrenie. 
 and Lakes ( Mitario. Krie 
 and Huron : and the town of 
 Pembroke, nortli of the city 
 of Ottawa. Owen .Soniul and 
 Collingwood, north of To- 
 ronto, and like places, were 
 regarded as tlie frontier 
 towns of civilization, or. as 
 tluy WLie called. " iuinping off jilaces." lieyond these lay the Canada of the In- 
 dian and the lia|)per : and yet fiirthir west, the Indian, the trapi>er and the buffalo ; 
 and yet further, the Rocky .Moimtains. known only to the Indian and tr.ider ; and yet 
 further, the wild regioii leadin,:; If) the I'.icitic. Then north, lay the land of Indian, 
 trader and i)uffalo ; right on to llie fro/en Xorth, the wliole. cast, west and north 
 dominated by th.it company of skins and jielts — the Hudson's liay Company — which 
 ruleil and tiaded and |)ile(l up money, as in another liemisphcre. the Kast India Com- 
 pany ruled India. Of course, il wa-. not in the interests of that company to disclose 
 the secrets of this pricticUly untrodden cDuntry, ;ind ail reports reacliing i ivili/ation 
 were antagonistic to settlement — tlie coni was made colder, the river-< were impassable, 
 the prairies as graves for wjiiic men — .md wise men showed their wisdom by 
 remaining on the fringe of ('anada : whilst the real ("anada— the coming KI Dorado of 
 the coming wheat buyer, ram her and miner — was left to Nature and the Hudson's liay 
 Company. 
 
THE CANADIAN I'ACIKK" KAII.WAV. 8 
 
 Then in iSf);, ('anada was conrcdcratcd into ono vast Dominion, and the necessity 
 l)c<anic ajiiiarcnl of oindinj^ tiic liii,'i.' ((iiintry tci^fellicr by one leadinj; trunk line, wliicli 
 would unite the Ivasl and West and Itcconie in lime tlie parent of other lines of railway. 
 The extended charter of the Ihidscin's May Company had expired, and the ( loverninent 
 came to terms with it, payinji one million and a half of dollars for remnant rights which 
 it claimed, and allowing it one tweilieth of the land in peri)CtMily, and a certain amount 
 of land aroimd the forts and stations of the (ompany wlii( h were widely scattered throu^^li 
 the region over which it had ruled fur years witii sovereign power. 
 
 Thus the doors of this sealed territory were ojiened. and the idcaof a great connecting 
 line of railway <ame within view of possibility. 
 
 'I'he problem for solution whi( li la\ liefore the enterprise of the young Dominion 
 was that of uniting together a rountiy that stretched fmm the Atlantic to the I'acifu-, and 
 tliat juvsented formidablr barriers in the way of bnih the explorer and engineer. 'I'he 
 problem was in every way a dilticull one, but it had to be met, if the constitutional theory 
 of Confederation should ever be<:ome an established fact. I'irst a private company com- 
 posed of Canadians and .Americans, assisteil by the Dominion (lovcrnment, diced the 
 pro!)lem ; but tliroiigli political stricture^ and the ccjuseipient defeat of the (iovernment, 
 it tailed to c.irry t^ut its s» heme. Then a new (iovernment proposed using the great water 
 stretches in connection with rail links, but .ifter building some sections, this effort collapsed, 
 mainly by I'le de.ith of the (io\ernment it>elf. I'in.dly a Canadian company, largely 
 aided by vast grant-- of money and laml voted l)y the older (Iovernment restored to power, 
 began the work in deterinineil earnest in the year iSSi, and on the 7th day of November 
 1SS5, the last rail was laiil and the first through train passed over the line. During the 
 following winter trains were run from the .Atlantic to the Pacific as circumstances re- 
 •piired ; but on the jStli of June. 1SS6. the first daily passenger train bound for the Pacific 
 coast cjuietly steamed out of the railway station at .Montreal, with an unbroken iron road 
 uf two thousand nine hundred and six miles stretching out before it. 'I'he writer saw that 
 train start, and as he joined his voice in a speeding cheer, he realized that Canada was at 
 last developing — and that boldly and bravely — a new-born faith in its own destiny as an 
 imi)ortant factor in the enter|)rise and trade of the world. 
 
 It was by this road, straight through from cast to west, that the before-named jiersons 
 were to make their journey. Here again, for the benefit of Old-Country friends, let me 
 say something as to the comforts of such a mode of travelling. The C. P. R. inaugurated 
 three elements in the comfort of the passenger, hitiierto largely unkncnvn to the general 
 Canadiar, public, namely: civility, punctuality, and coitifortable (piarters for emigrant 
 travellers. Railway porters or attendants on ])arlor or slee])ing cars, up to the C.P. k. 
 revolution, were, as a rule, amongst the most irritating of Her Majesty's subjects, their 
 manner constantly ranging from the coolly impertinent to the servilely civil, the latter 
 stage being reached as each despised i)assenger neared the close of his journey and shil- 
 lings became the order of the day. Now all this is changed. The civility, always char- 
 acteristic of tlie C. P. R. porter, has already influenced the conduct of servants on other 
 
A HOLIDAY THIl' VIA 
 
 leading lines, and a traveller (an now assert liis riglits as a white man even in the pre- 
 sence of a negro porter — nay, he can get his wishes carried out with liglitning expedition. 
 
 Then the C. P. R. revolution produced " The Colonist Car," comfortal)ly seated, well 
 ventilated and witli reasonable arrangements for sleeping. One has only to travel with 
 a train of modern emigrants, and revive his memory of iincient emigrants huddled to- 
 gether and crowded, to realize how tiiankfuUy he may '• let the dead past bury its dead." 
 and accept the " living ])resent " as an evidem e that Canada at long last is being made 
 attractive t(j the emigrant, and better still to the emigrant's little children. 
 
 — in their favor. Ivich 
 car is a luxuriously fur- 
 nished drawing-room, well 
 ventilated and lighted, 
 with large plate glass win- 
 dows giving a wide field of 
 vision — with bath-rooms 
 and wasii-rooms. and 
 smoking-room, electric 
 bells and hot air heating 
 apparatus, and in the 
 night, each conjpartment 
 changed into a sleeping- 
 room tiial one has only 
 U) get ai( uslonied to, to 
 rest in soundly. Lasting 
 luxury, coo! lomfort, such, 
 in fine, is tlie C. 1'. R. 
 day car for the tb.^tc lass 
 jia^senger. 
 
 'j'heii comes the ("dUi 
 vested as to his upper man 
 ." Rush out ol diawingioom 
 1 wheels ; with waiters staiid- 
 ) two tables, each table set 
 . I'.iUoffare — souj), fish, en- 
 pastry, fruit, tea and coffee ; 
 il pay tiiree shillings stg. for 
 as good a breakfast, dinner and tea us any reasonable man would ask to have laid belore 
 
 hi'i). 
 
 'I'he third blessing of the C. V. R. revolution is |iunctuality. The day has past when 
 express trains jiulled up to allow offu ials to i)ick blackberries or to "liiiuorup," when 
 travellers waited five or ten hours at leading stations, or built up fires in a box stove in 
 
THK CANADIAN I'ACIKIf; RAIFiW AV 
 
 the waiting-room of way stations, or lay lull slretcli on a form, wiih a portmanteau for 
 a pillow, 'riicse arc memories of llie jiast, 
 
 '• Like the (lew on the mountain. 
 Like the f uun on the river," 
 
 faithful SiMt( hmen may sing a ("oronach over them, for. 
 
 " Like tiie bubble on the fountain," 
 as fir as the (,'. 1'. R. express trains are CDnccrned, 
 
 " They arc gone, and forever." 
 Of course F ran only speak from experience, and I know little of local traffic 
 
 on this wondrous line. I 
 only know th it the C. I'. R. 
 serpent started from Mont- 
 real sharp at 8.20 p.m., 
 arrived sharp at North IJay 
 'J-5.S "" the second day, 
 louciied every way station 
 timed to the very minute 
 - reached Wiimijieg on 
 time, readied lianff on 
 time, readied North Bend 
 on time, and steamed into 
 Vancouver sharp 1.50 p.m., 
 leaving a trail beliind it of 
 two thousand nine hundred 
 and eigiity six miles, with 
 a correc t record all the way 
 along, it was just tlie same 
 all the wa\ back fniiu \an- 
 couver to i'ort .\rtliiir. In 
 fad both going and ci Hilling, 
 if one wished to know 
 where he was, all he had to 
 do was to l(3ok at his watch , 
 .uid then at the time table, 
 aiul lie fixed his location 
 straight off. 
 
 Lniikiou (,'. I*. R. DiNiNd ('ak. 
 
 TiiURsiiAV, June 27. — Woke up to find the train passing by the side of the Ottawa 
 river, through an uncultivated country. Nothing of much interest till we readied North 
 Hay, on Lake Nipissing. l-'rom this out the country becomes rough and rocky, and is 
 
6 
 
 A HOLIDAY TRIP VIA 
 
 Studded witli a numhcr of heaiilit'ul lakes apparently rmiiiing into one another. At Sud- 
 bury [unction came across Dr. Wylde, who lias charge of a section of the railway; Dr. 
 Williams, his college chum, having charge of another section on tiie Algonia branih. 
 iioth of them like their work, and Wylde was louking strong anil hearty. Arrived 
 (S.45 p.m) at (.'hapleau— a divisional railway centre and a very pretty spot. The light 
 was as clear and bright as if it were only 3 t)'clock instead of nearly y. 
 
 Friday, 29. — Wok-; uj) on shores of Lake Superior ; air delightfully coul and morn- 
 ing beautiful. The scenery all along this section is charming, and sometimes strikingly 
 grand, the rail following the coast line very closely. The waters of the lake are of the 
 bluest blue, and ch)se to the shore are as clear as crystal. Xo chance, I should say, 
 for the farmer here, but glorious ground for the photograi)her and painter— the clear sky, the 
 curving coast line, the blue water, the rich salmon-colored granite rocks rising from Hats 
 into mountains that rear their rounded heads to meet the brilliant sunlight. 'I'he curves 
 and twists and turns of the rail are wonderful, giving a ceaseless variety of scenery, 
 with the lovely lake or inland ocean always present. This scenery which runs through the 
 scale of — pretty, very pretty, beautiful, grand — runs up and down the notes till wc reach 
 I'ort .Arthur, at the head of Thunder Ray, a glorious sheet of water, henuned in by lofty 
 
 hills, foremost of which 
 looms 'J'hunder Cape 
 -- a great frowning 
 headland that stands 
 sentinel-like guarding 
 the entrance of the Day. 
 Port .Arthur is a biisk, 
 bustlinglittletown with, 
 no doubt, a large i:ity 
 tiituie before it. Here 
 the boats belonging 
 to the ('. 1'. Raibay, 
 TiiiiNiiKR ('ai'K. plying between Owen 
 
 Sound and I'oii Arthur, discharge and take in their passengers and cargoes— sjilendid 
 vessels, large as (jcean steamers and most comfortabl)' arranged. Here also is the 
 
 cemetery where .Mr. Van Home lias 
 
 . binied the time honored .A.M. and P.M. 
 
 'd of bygone days, for from this on wc 
 
 > talk of 13 o'clock and 22 o'clock, right 
 
 rj out to Vancouver. Here also the time 
 
 1^ itself changes. A'ou arrive at Port .Ar- 
 
 ^ thur at 3.15 and leave it at 2.25 or 
 
 i^ 14.25 o'clock. Hack go most watches 
 
 ^ one hour, but I keej) mine at .Montreal 
 
 time, and deduct the dead hours as 
 
 we leave time behind. 
 
THE CAN'ADIAN I'ACIFIC RAILWAY. 
 
 Kioiii I'oit Aitluir onward Id Selkirk, tlic couiUry :s siiigiikirly monotonous — an 
 interminable swamp composed of a stuff callt'd muskeg, that no doubt in a few geologic 
 periods would produce good peat. Not one settler's liouse to be seen for miles, and 
 
8 A HOLIDAY TRIP VIA 
 
 at some stopping places are neatly painti?d water tanks with the name of the suppositious 
 station on them. But the road is in as perfect order as if it were running through a richly 
 settled country, all the bridges and culverts numbered and the different sections marked ; 
 the travelling easy and everything in first-class condition. After tea the Canon and I sat out 
 on the hind platform of the car and saw muskeg in every shape and form and depth of 
 coloring, and the boats, left behind by Lord VVolseley in the Red River Expedition, rotting 
 away tiie balance of their lives, no settlers near to break them up. The sun did not go 
 down till a quarter to nine, Montreal time. There was a good deal of good humored 
 chaffing as night came on about the berths. There was an invasion of the old settlers 
 in the train at Port Arthur, and a number of ladies and children sipiattcd on our sections. 
 It did not matter much during the evening, but there was an unpleasant fceliug amongst 
 the original settlers as to whether the sipiatters would remain sciuatted iliiring sleejiing 
 hours. However, it turned out that all the squatters h;id obtained ujijier berths, and then 
 the lower berth gentlemen were taught a lesson in the virtue of resignation. I had an 
 upper berth all along (memo. — always take an upper berth, it is co(jI and you can go to bed 
 early and read) so I had to resign nothing, but our manager, Mr. White, resigned with 
 spontaneous gracefulness. 
 
 I'he be^jS were not all made up till 1 1 o'clock, and when I turned in I was dead 
 tired, and so was the Canon. 
 
 Satiroav, June 29. — Up at 6 o'clock — pouring rain and jxissing still through mus- 
 keg — but train on time to the minute at every water tank. 1 he Canon was up before 
 me, and I tbund him looking muskegish in the smoking-room, longing for Winnipeg. 
 .Arrived at Winnipeg sharp on time. 'I'he car was so full that we found it hard to sort 
 out our traps, and the Ju<lge came off leaving his umbrella behind him. The station was 
 a s(-ene of wondrou.j bustle, and was crowded along the whole platform, which is a very 
 large one. Everywhere one saw faces well known, and sometimes not seen for years. 
 .\rch(lea(f)n Kortin and his curate, and the Rev. Joseph Merric k and Ca|>t. W. Johnston 
 were waiting for us. I'orlin opened fire at once for three sermons on Sunday, Mr. 
 Merrick came to take us to his house, and Capt. Johnson ( ame to see that the faintest 
 wish on our |)art would be carried out. .After a very short delay for ourdeneral Manager 
 is a rusher — we drove up to the Clarendon, a fine looking Hotel within sight of j'ortin's 
 church, which is well worthy of Montreal, or New York, as far as an hilectural beauty is 
 concernetl. The Canon and I got splendid ri)oms, the judge a very godd one, but 
 .someway our General Manager got inferior (juarters. Just as I was shutting my door, lij 
 dartel past me — tomahawk in hand, |)aint and feather* of course right on the war |)ath 
 for the landlord, — :i solemn looking man not accustomed to be run round as he will be 
 in a few niomenls when the General Manager gets on his trail. 
 
 Saturday and Sunday we spent in Winnipeg — a really wonderful city consiileriugjts 
 history. In 1859 it consisted of a Hudson's 15ay Co. I'ort. a hotel and few buildings ; in 
 187 1 the whole |)opulation was 100, and it was known as Fort Garry, and to day it munbers 
 a population of 25,000, is a real live city, lighted from end to end with electricitv ; the 
 
THE CANADIAN PACIKIf! HAIIAVAV. 
 
 
 U 
 
 main streets laid clown in hlock iMVeinent, street cars nimiiiii; all over, mills, elevaluis 
 and first-class business Imildings evervwliere, provinj; the reality of trade. 'I'iie only 
 drunken man I came across on the whole journey told me in a i^iish of whiskilied cont'i- 
 dence that Winnipeg, would nut he worth a hi ide of grass till it deveiopetl mamitaclorics 
 — i)ut, my ^(oodness, even Winnipeg. I should fancy, reipiires time to hreulhe. On Satur- 
 day we took the cars out to St. John's, and saw the old Cathedral, built by Jtishop 
 Anderson, and the Chmch of Kngland College, built b" liishop Machray-tlie former a 
 singularly modest edifice with a lovely graveyard rouml it, the latter a splendid building, 
 
10 
 
 A HOLIDAY TRIP VIA 
 
 
 
 ' ''^^- .^>>#- ^^ 
 
 
 (JlTV li.M.I, WlNMI'KC. 
 
 wonderfully endowed and equipped for ;i iiuw counliy. Then we took llie cars to the 
 (lid Hudson's iJay Fori which, instead of being preserved as a nionunient of early settle- 
 ment, has been ruthlessly destroyetl. We spent the balance of Saturday receiving callers 
 and old friends, every f tee reviving a string of memories long burieil under the events of 
 intervening years. .Sunday was a lovely day, and we spent it very happily. Went 
 to Christ Ciuirch in the morning, where I read prayers, and the Rector, Canon 
 Pentreath, jjreached a faithful and earnest sermon. Considering the heat (tf the morning, 
 there was a very good congregation. 'I'he choir was composed of boj s and men in sur- 
 
THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAITAVAY. 11 
 
 plices and purple and black cassocks, and a fringe of ladies in the back stalls. After 
 dinner I went to visit some old Clinton friends, the Canon rested, and the General 
 Manager and the Judge went off with the Lieutenant Ciovernor, who kindly called and 
 invited us to slay with him on our return trip. In the night I preached in Kortin's 
 beautiful church. The service was semi-choral, and the anthem was really splendidly 
 rendered. There was a crowded congregation, and at the close of the service another 
 batch of old friends turned up to shake hands and start another series of old memories. 
 One thing struck me forcibly in connection with the congregation — namely, the magnifi- 
 cent young life of which it was composed. 1 suppose there must have been from seven to 
 eight iuindred persons present, and yet I doubt if there were one hundred old or even aged 
 jieople within the walls. Magnificent, vigorous, young life everywhere — the hymns shouted 
 with the strength of youth — a splendid gathering, full of jiromise for the welfare of the coun- 
 try. And the moscpiitoes were full of vigorous young life. In older Canada they make 
 love to you with their deadly " /ooning"— -one at a time — but outside of Holy Trinity, 
 Winnipeg, they rushed at you in a cloud, and settled on you in dozens, and brushed off, 
 followed you with freshly invigorated blood tliirsliness, as if they were passing round the 
 word, " (lO for them, boys, they are tenderfeet, (Quebec grceidiorns— don't spare the 
 bayonet — /oon-/oon-Zoon." (W course all this, we were told, was most unusual. As a 
 rule, the Winnipeg mosipiitoes are tame, gentle creatures, musical rather than murderous. 
 .Archdeacon Forlin was very much astonished, so was every Winnipegger, but the well 
 cultivated sueeji of the .Archdeacon's hand, and the calm way in which he unconsciously 
 tied a white pocket handkerchief round his neck, created a suspicion in my mind that he 
 was more than well drilleil in averting what in old Kgyptian days might have been 
 regardetl as something approaching a plague. 
 
 MoNDAV, July 2. — Up at 7. down at 10 o'clock, and before long wo are f)ut on the 
 prairie — indeed at once, for every western streil in Winnipeg ends in it. Passed Portage 
 la Prairie, a well built city ; nn Ihrougii well cultivated fields of grain ; on through 
 rolling land studded with groves of trees; passed lir.mdon, a wonderful little city with a 
 population of riose on 5.000, with fields nt grain covering Soo and 1,000 acres ; out into 
 the rolling jirairie, with signs of prosperous settlement all through it ; past \irden, where 
 1 had a shake hands with my old friend anil second cluirchwurden in CMinton — Russel 
 Read ; jassed the little station of Moosomin, sixty miles from which there is a prosperous 
 settlement of Crofters from the Isle of .Skye. himger and poverty and misery all lelt 
 behind them in the Old Hebrides, where it rains nine days out often, and where meat is 
 a luxmy not me.int for the Crofters. 
 
 This is Dominion Day, and every little village along the line has its celebration. It 
 gave us a good opportunity of seeing the settlers, for all ciDwded to the stations along 
 the line, and after eyeing them over we came to the following conclusions: ist, 
 They were all young mi-n ami young women. 2nd. They were all sober. 3rd. They 
 were all strong and healthy looking and well dressed. 4th. They were in every way far 
 ahead (if appearance be a sign of prosperity) of the men who originally settled the coun- 
 
12 A HOLIDAY TRIP VIA 
 
 ties of Huron, Bruce, and Grey, in Ontario. In fact, I never saw in rural Canada a 
 more res|)ectable looking crowd of people, and the palpable evidence of the absence of 
 King Whiskey was singularly refreshing. 
 
 Tuesday, July 3. — Up at 6.30 — lovely morning, bright sunshine, and warm. The 
 appearance of the prairie had wholly changed. The first sight I got of it this morning 
 looked in the sunlight like an Arabian desert, the effect arising from the varied tints of 
 the short grass — yellow, red, and brown. All along the line, for miles upon miles, it 
 v.iried in aspect, until we came into wheat-bearing soil again. How anyone can say that 
 this part of the journey is uninteresting I cannot think. We saw glorious flocks of wild 
 fowl, numberless lakelets fringed with golden flowers, regular as if sown by hand, gophers 
 and sipiirrels by the thousand, and here and there a party of genuine Indians riding their 
 ponies, gun in hand. The ))rairie we are now passing Mirough (11 o'clock) is in Assiiii- 
 boia. and is rich and fertile, but very thinly settled, miles upon miles of glorious land 
 waiting for the coming emigrant. Heautiful lakes flit by us. with flocks of gulls screaming 
 over head, and flocks of ducks floating on the water close to the shore. 'I'he prairie here 
 is rolling, rising sometimes into long ranges of grass green hills, stretcliing out like waves, 
 and far beyond, bright and blue like the sea, a long, low range of mountains, called tiie 
 Cypress Hills. A wonderful country, wanting only man to make it bright with happy 
 liomes. How is it that things do not come together? 'i'here are thousands and tens of 
 thousands in Great Britain crying out for land, and here is the richest land. I suppose, in 
 the world crying out for men, and yet the distinct cries go up and someway never mingle. 
 
 12.30 o'clock. — We get out at the railway station at Maple Creek lor a few minutes 
 to take stock in the real live Indian men, women and children (Crees) that were scattered 
 over the platform. The men were painted lavishly, vermilion and brick colored face-*, 
 toned down with blue and yellow streaks. The women were remarkable for brilliant 
 blankets, and some of the girls had large slabs of mother-of-pearl hanging from tin ir 
 ears. .\s far as the men and women were concerned, they might as well ha\e been 
 inmates of a deaf and dumb asylum. There they sat. or leaned against the station, or 
 stood out on the |)latform, straight as a Douglas pine, silent and ipiiet as clams Two 
 splendid looking fellows sat with their chins in their hands and their eyes fived on the 
 brass wo'.K of the steam engine glittering in the simlight, and never seemed to move them 
 once. I should not think that the Crees would make good commercial travellers, ['.acii 
 li'.dian had a pair of polished buffalo horns for sale, but they never oflercd them to anv- 
 one; indeed, for the matter of that, they appeared as if it was perfectly immaterial 
 whether they sold them or not. If you thirsted for a buff.ilo horn, you had to o|)en up 
 negotiations. "What do you <-.harge for these?" L^p would go two or three Indian 
 fingers, coui)led with the words "bits." implynig two or three quarters. Then, if the 
 bargain was completed, the horns changed hands ; but if not, the Indian looked far 
 away out on the prairie, ignoring your existence, calmly waiting some other claimant for 
 his wares. 
 
 Here also on the platform are members of the Mounted Police, as soldier-like 
 
THK CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. 13 
 
 cavalrymen as you would find anywlvMe in the British army. Major Antrobus — every 
 inch a soldier — boarded the cars here, in company with his wife, and we had a very 
 l)!easant chat with him between Maple Creek and Forres, the next station, where he left 
 the cars. These jjolicc represent the strong arm of the law through the whole of the 
 North-West Territory. This territory is under prohii)ilory law as to all forms of intoxicat- 
 ing drinks, and the police enforce the excise regulations, watch over the Indians, guard 
 the borders and run down horse-thieves. Certainly, as far as a passing traveller can see, 
 the whole country is remarkable for sobriety; but one of the mounted police told me 
 that there was enough drinking done in Calgary to do credit to a good-sized city, and 
 that it was next to imjjossiblc to enforce the law in centres of pojuilation as long as ever 
 the magistrates gave permits to private individuals to bring in drink, the result being that 
 each permit finds its way into a tavern, where, if it be raided, the permits of a number of 
 private individuals are at once produced, and the drink is claimed to be private proi)erty. 
 My informant went in for i license law with heavy fees, and imprisonment for violation. 
 The present law, he claimed, worked well in the o])en country anil amongst the Indians, 
 but failed nu'serably in centres, where magistrates and citizens and tavern-keepers were 
 banded against the excise, and tlie ]iolice officer that did his duty bravely always suffered 
 for it in the long run. 
 
 .\t 15 o'clock we reach Dunmore, where a branch line strikes out for I.elhiiridge, one 
 hundreil and ten miles south west, the centre of a large coal deposit which sup|tlies the whole 
 country east as far as Winnijieg. l.ethbiiilt;e lay altogether out of our course, but we were 
 toldlhal it is a tlniirishing town having one hundred mounted police statioi'ed init.isclosc 
 to a large reserve of iilackfeet Indians, and that there are sjilendid ranches all about it. 
 Hut our journey lay due west, and on we g<> till the scenery changes as we draw near to 
 Mediiine Hat. where the prairie is liirown up in rounded and cone-shaped hills, the soil 
 gravel, and coveted richly with wild roses aiul strikingly beautiful blue tlowers. Here 
 and there ytiu can see the teepees of Indians, and Indians riding on their ponies. 
 
 .\t 16 o'clock we reach .Medicine Hat, situated I'li the South Saskati'hewan river, 
 quite a pretty little village, with about 100 houses in it, and two churches, one evidently 
 .Anglican. The station platform was coveted with Hlood and Iilackfeet Indians, got up 
 in paint ami feathers, and in every way a more jovial party than our friends i| c Cret-s. 
 One strapping fellow hail a tame thrush roosting on his hat, and appeared to < njny the 
 fun that this novel headdress produced, .\nother fellow was got up in most gorgeous 
 style — i)ainl and feathers, bright blanket, embroidered sleeves and leggings, dandy shells, 
 and such like. I fell like asking him : " Pray, sir, are you anybody in particular ? " But 
 on more private eniiuiry 1 was told thai the Indians, like the while men. had their 
 "dudes," and thai this was the '• boss dude" of Medicine Hal. .\ll of ihem had buffalo 
 horns for sale, but, like the Crces, they never offered to sell, but waited calmly for 
 negotiations to be oi)ened by the passengers. 
 
 Outside of Medicine Hat, on the far side of the river, we saw a ranch, with two 
 large herds of iiorses feeding, and further on a laige Indian encampment. The day, so 
 
14 A HOIilDAY TRIP VIA 
 
 far, has been delightfully cool, so cool that at a quarter past five o'clock (17.15) I had to 
 close the window, which had been raised all day. Magnificent prairie everywhere stretch- 
 ing away like a vast sea. Just now we passed an enormous flock of sheep (said to num- 
 ber 5,000), attended by a gigantic Indian and sheep-dogs, and wherever you look there is 
 grass, grass, grass, calling out for more sheep and horses and settlers. 
 
 All through to-day's journey, piled up at the leading stations along the road, were vast 
 heaps of the bones of the earliest owners of the prairie — the buffalo, (liant heads and rib> 
 and thigh bones, witliout one pick of meat on tliein, clean as a well-washed plate, white 
 as driven snow, there they lay, a giant sacrifice on the altar of trade and civilization. A 
 leading and well-known Roman Catholic missionary told our (leneral Manager, Mr. White 
 (who picks up information everywhere and from everybody), that he often longed for 
 the old days when the buffalo marched in stately strides along its trail, and the Indian 
 lived out his wild and natural life. One can easily realize the feeling; but surely one 
 railway whistle— full of pro|hecy for (Church, for State, for Indian and while man — must 
 in the long run atone a thousand fold for the loss of all that herds of buffalo implied. 
 The buffiilo, lord of the prairie, meant this magnificent heritage a wild and useless waste ; 
 the whistle means education and religion, and law and order, and, best of all, the grass 
 supporting men, women and children, instead of her<ls of beasts. And the stately buffalo 
 departed this life just at the right time, when utilitarianism marks everything, for every 
 white bone is worth money. 'Die Indian gathers the relics of his old friends, deposits 
 them at railway stations, reieives their value in current coin of the realm ; the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway swallows them up as freight; and eventually the king of the prairie goes 
 back "dust to dust" as a fertilizer of the soil, or, as one person told me, is used in 
 connection with refining sugar. 
 
 To-ni.s^ht we bid good-bye to the prairies, and the morning will find us in the 
 Rockies, and before leaving them one naturally thinks of the possible future that lies out 
 before these mighty stretches. In such a gigantic country, as in widespread human 
 society, it is only natural that one might expect to find the good and bad mixed, and 
 hence the whole prairie should not be regarded as one possible garden. West of the 
 Red River to the bounds of the Province of Manitoba the country seems providentially 
 formed for rich and prosperous settlement. Better wheat-growing and cattle-raising land 
 it would be hard to find, and the same may be said of the North-West Territory from 
 Fleming station, which stands on the borders of the province of Assiniboia, on to Regina. 
 From Regina on to Medicine Hat the land is plainly inferior, but inferior only by com- 
 parison with the rich soil fiirther east. Then comes the great ranch coimtry of Alberta, 
 with its four million acres stretching south along the eastern slopes of the Rockies, 
 regarded by those entitled to judge as unequalled both for richness of grass and purity 
 of water; wliilst north of Calg;,ry stretches the great valley of the North Saskat- 
 chewan, with land etpial, it is said, to that in the province of Manitoba. Of course, all 
 this is the result of enquiry and reading rather than exjjerience, for all that we could take 
 in was the wide country on each side of us as we passed along — farm and ranch and 
 
THE <*ANA1)IAN J'AC^IFIC RAlIiWAY. 16 
 
 siiccimcii gardens, the latter being undcriiahlc witnesses to the fertility of the soil. Oiit- 
 sidc of all the leading stations a patch of the prairie has been neatly fenced off as a 
 garden, and each one stands as " a specimen brick " of the whole prairie about it ; a 
 patch of wheat, a patch of potatoes, a patch of tomatoes, and so on. Most of these 
 gardens spoke elotpiently of the richness of the soil, and even the poorest would not be 
 counted bad in not a few places in Ontario and Quebec. 
 
 Surely, it is impossible to suppose that, as the years roll on, such a country can bear 
 on its fertile bosom these millions of imused acres; that these wondrous fertilizing 
 streams will rush on through a vast homeless ct»iiiitry. Some day must come when these 
 giant stretches will bear their weight of human life, farm touching farm and ranch ranch ; 
 when villages and towns, and even cities, will gather round them those smaller holdings 
 which testify to lasting settlement ; and when that d;iy comes, who can doubt but that 
 the real heart of Canada will beat and throb, not as it does now, close to the mighty 
 lakes, but in the land over which the buffalo once roamed, and by whose watercourses 
 the Indian pitclied his tent. 
 
 July 4. — 'I'his has been a white-stone day in our lives, for when we awoke, at 4.50, 
 we found ourselves right into the Rocky Mountains, drawing near to Banff. I had gone 
 to bed very sleepy, and had slept like a top, and had tmiibled out with but one idea on 
 my mind, namely, liiat of being lust in the wash-room. 'I'he same idea, however, had 
 long before struck the Canon and several other gentlemen ; so, in that flannel headed 
 state of brain that getting up at 4.50 is apt to bring about, I went into the smoking-room 
 and looked in a stupitl way out of the windows. I tell you, tiie stupidity left me in an 
 instant, as one glance reminded me where I was. 'I'here they were, the most gigantic 
 and roughest mountains I ever looked at, and so close to you that you felt instinctively 
 as if you were within walls. Mountains like giant saws, like lonely castles, like hump- 
 backed camels, like the great masses of slate-grey cloud that in summer time, when rain 
 is coming, loom up grandly over our own mountain in Montreal ; mountains that seemed as 
 if .some Devonian or Carboniferous giant had piled them up in a fit of wild and savage 
 |)assion, and had then beaten in their faces with his giant hammer ; no sloping sides or 
 graceful peaks— nothing but chaos piled up on chaos, till lost in the early morning clouds. 
 The pine trees run up to a given line, or steal in lonely streaks to greater heights, but as 
 a rule there is nothing beyond the line of vegetation but the bare, cruel-looking rock, its 
 mighty ravines filled with ice and snow, and its grey, rugged sides shining like burnished 
 steel when the sunlight falls on them. I never saw or hoped to see anything so awfully 
 grand, and I suppose 1 coukl nt;ver feel again the same feelings in connection with the 
 same view, though the sense of awfulness never wholly left me as long as ever we were 
 under the shadows of these giant piles of rock which seemed to rise and swell like 
 the waves of an infuriated Atlantic, for over a hundred miles along the railroad track. 
 Because the railway is right in the mountains, rising sometimes over five thousand 
 feet in altitude, with the mountains themselves towering four and five and even eight 
 
1'6 A IIOIJDAV TltlP VIA 
 
 thousand Il-cI alxjvc your licad. How in the world any engineer ever Iiad the courage to 
 plan a railroad in suili a country is what ania/.es nie. 
 
 We arrived at HanCf right on tinie. and were driven in an omnibus along a goud road 
 up to a palatial hotel, standing on a lofty elevation and belonging to the C. P. R. It was 
 very eold driving up, and the empty grate in the large hall seemed to make it colder, 
 but at'ler a good wasii. and a hearty breakfast, we sat out on the sunny side of the 
 iiouse. at an altitude of four tlioiisand five hundred feet, with tiie grandest view of 
 mountain scenery we (oulil a>k to see, lying out at our feet, the valley of the liow, 
 hemmed in \\ilh its .ittindant moimtains, a view that would repay a person for the 
 whole ioinney. In the UKantinie, our ever moving Manager. Mr. White, hai] hunted 
 u\) Mr. .Stew.irt. the ■-uperintenileiU of the National I'ark in which the hotel is 
 situated, who kindly inulertnok to guide us through his territory. This ])ark is the 
 property of the nouiiuiiin (lovernmeut. is twenty-t'ive miles by ten, and contains 
 within it >onie of tiie most striking windings and torrents of the How and .Spray 
 rivers, and sonu ni the grandest momitains in the Ro( ky range. It has been placed 
 iHider the < barge ol Mr. Stewart, who is fast opening it all up with splendid roads, 
 bringing the nanu.il beauties of the place to the front in a truly artistic manner. 
 The whole |i.irty >tarte(l under his guidance at nine o'clock, behind two gcjcxl 
 horses, and diove u|i the >i'adil\' ascending road, higher ami higher, until the hotel 
 lav in dinnnislud picipoition> far beiKalh us. I'p we went, higher and higher, luilil a! last 
 at .1 glorious elewition of five thousainl two lumdred feet (that dw.iifed uhal tcj us from 
 the hotel scfinecl lofty mountains) we pulled up at the .Siil|phtn- iSaths. Here, no doubt, 
 in a short time, well planneil buildings will take the |ilac:e of the somewhat rough cuies in 
 which the baths ,ii\- a' presiiu. These hot baths are (ci\ from springs that biust out of the 
 mountain side, and aie conveyed by iiijics into the buildings ; and, judging by the springs 
 all about, nnming over the roads and making cascades for themsehes here and there, there 
 is a suHic lent snppl\' of suliihur w.iter to rradicate the pains and ac Iks of all the rheinna'ic 
 p.iticiUs ill, It thi-. continent cm supply. Turning back on ourro,iil. we then dro\etu othir 
 springs, cner which M i. .Stew.irt h,is erected pretty .Swiss like bathing houses. One of 
 these b.ttli-' i-- entered b> a p.iss.igi. m,ide thrmigh the rock,cl,irk and gloomy, imt opening 
 out into a -pleiulid c hainber of stone, within which lies the clear water with its 
 bubbles rising to the top With the regularity of a watc h tic k, as weird looking a chamber 
 as any uiie could ,i-k to see. making a pic Itiie lh.it wcnild give Haggard (if he only 
 ot a sight of it) a loc.itioii for a si,irtling story. The other bath is splendid in its pro- 
 poitioiis, iiml is W(\ by .1 giant s|iring in tlie bath itself— a sjuing whose de|)th ii.is 
 iie\er been plumbed, and of sue h force that a strong man c,in lling himself into it and 
 yet float like a cork on its surlace. The (leneral .Manager and the Judge, who were 
 the darii'g members of the Jiarty, drank deeply of the waters and also bathed, and gave 
 a un.inimous verdict on the sulphureoiisiiesii of the' drink, and the' refreshing delights 
 of the b.ith. Then our horses' heads were turned tuw.irds the \alley, and we drove at a 
 slapping j>ace to the junc tion of the Rivets IJuwand Sj)ray, a charming spot, and one that 
 
 ts 
 
TIIK CA.VADI.W I'AflKM' ItAIIAVAY. 
 
 17 
 
 W 
 
 ■■<:■ 
 
 i. . 
 
 >Mi 'W' 
 
 m3u 
 
 8 
 
18 
 
 A HDIilPAY TKIP VIA 
 
 no doul)t, in days to conu', will he ((iveiLd with stinimcr villas for those who ran afford 
 such luxuries. Then came luncheon where we met ^[r. Cochrane, a charming siiecimen 
 of a young rancher, whuse rou^'h life seems to agree with him in every way. After 
 luncheon we started for a ten mile sail in a steam yacht up the River i!ow. It was 
 pouring rain when we left, hi't young Cochrane changed coats with me, and 1 sat in an 
 oilskin covering in one place, very like a sailor in a storin, and Cochrane s;U in another 
 place very like a handsome young clergyman in the same condition. After a little the 
 
 i^^-.vt'' •' .■■■.■■■■■ 
 
 Al.ONC THE lidW RiVl.k, RoiKV MolN rAINS. 
 
 rain stu]»i)cd, the sun shone out, and we steameil rapidly right to the lia->e of M)me of 
 the giant mountains, and up and down a river th:it presented at every turn a Iresh \i^ion 
 of the grand sombre s( enery that henuned us in no matter «1hiv we went. 
 
 During the evening a bright log Uw roared and < rackled in tlu; wide nioutlud gr.ite in 
 the hall of the hotel, and round it sat the guests talking and chatting till one hy one the 
 circle became less, the tire became l':iv, our party making for bed with the prospect of 
 an earl) start to catch the morning train. 
 
 Tiit'RSDAv. July 5.— Up at .}.5o— coffee— left llaiiff 5.10. sliaiji on lime. ( >ur jour- 
 ney this morning brings us to the sunniiit of the Rockie: , but the grade for a long way is 
 comparatively gentle, and one scarcely realizes, when we rea( h the lot"tiest altiludi', that 
 the great heavy train has climbed nineteen hundred feet within about one hundred 
 miles. .'\s we ascend, the mountains seem to hem us in ck)ser and closer, maintaining 
 their fantastic sha|)es. Castle .Mountain towering up like a great fortitied wall, whilst Mt. 
 T,ofroy stands out as if it were determined to block our way and end our journey sud- 
 denly. Here we enter on the gem of the Rockies — the Kicking Morse Pass and Canyons 
 — so called because an original exjjlorer, Dr. Hector, was suddenly dcjiosited by his 
 beast some distance from his saddle. It would be altogether out of jilace, even if one 
 could do it, to .itteni])! to picture closely the awful grandeur of diis portion of our 
 journey. The I'ass, up to which the engine climbs, as if straining every bolt and bar in 
 it, stands at an altitude of five thousand two iunidred and ninety-six feet, with wild, 
 bare masses of rock six thousand aiul ten thousand feet above our heads, and out before us. 
 
TIIK CANADIAN I'ACII'K! KAIIAVAV, 
 
 in 
 
 — •I I I ■ f ■ ■' ■ 1 — EiiLi. ^ _-i-. - ■ ' f ■ — — — ^- ^T-S— rS'SM^^^^^CTgy ■■ » 
 
 I'll wo ,m). ilic I'liginc Iireathini; like a liaid-nm man, until \vc reach tlic siimniit, where from 
 a lake there issues the Kitkini; Horse Stream, wliich grathialiy grows into a river, and 
 the maddest, the most passionate, the most uiicontrolhilile river for its si/.e that onei ould 
 Well find. Soon we •^'lide into tlie great canyon, and begin to run down a gradient of 
 
20 A IKU-IDAY TRIl' VIA 
 
 one liiindred and fifty to two hundred feet to the mile, al)OVe us the uwfiil looking rocks, 
 and fir down l)elow, tlie boiling, raj^ing little river. One could fancy a deadly feud be- 
 tween the railroad and the river, as if the wild jiassion of the latter were a protest against 
 advancing civilization, and tiie invasion of |irinieva! rights, (live a voice to the water, 
 and it seems to say to the raiiruad : '• Mow dare you come near me, what right have you 
 here.^ Doii't you know tliat 1 have spent ages on ages in carving out this cramped and 
 lonely passage for myself, and here you come haunting my course with your cruel shadow, 
 and at times even running by my very side and driving me into narrow bounds— you 
 thief, you robber of ground that I had cut out and hollowed and fashioned for myself — 
 [ hate you." 
 
 From the upper canyon i)asl the pretty hotel at I'ield, at the base of Mt. Stephen, 
 we enter a valley where the railway crosses and recrosses the river, and then we plunge 
 into the lower i anyon where the rail really pushes the river closely, where the giant rocks 
 become more perpendicular, and dniw their sides closer and closer, until at last we are 
 running on the bare ledge of the mountains on our left, following with dogged i)ersistency 
 all their curves and twists and juttings, whilst the mail, boiling river, curled up in narrow 
 bounds, rushes on beneath us, white wi h rage, its h;itred of the railroad culminating into 
 fury. On and down, lower and lower, until at last we dash out into a glorious valley, 
 with the Columbia River (lowing tlirougii sol'tisl stretches of brightest green, and a choice 
 of giant mountains lo feast our eyes on — on one side tiie great chaotic Rockies, and on 
 the other those graceful giants that constitute the Selkirk range. 
 
 At (Itilden. tiie mad little Kukiiig lloise river runs into the larger and more sedate 
 Columbia, whilst to the right loom out the Selkirks. This range ap|)ears to differ from 
 the R(j( kies, in being less sav.ige looking and massive, but far more graceful, breaking 
 up nilo a number of sharp jioinlid peaks, springing from well defmeil sloping sides, 
 peaks c<jvered witli snow aiul ice. .iiid stretching on ahead of us like a well drilled regi- 
 ment staiuling on review. 
 
 13 o'clock. — For the last hour we ha\e been passing through w»)ndrous scenery. The 
 line keeps ste.idily ilinibing up the Selkirk range at the rale of oni' lunulred feit to the mile, 
 and we finally strike an exijuisite and long continued |)icture. I''ar down, one thousand feel 
 below tiie rail, the bright given water of the IJeaver River, winds its curving way through 
 a valley of surpassing beauty. Sometimes this valley looks a mile beneath us as the train 
 runs over a bridge, that left behind, seems to the eye as if it were hung in mid air. Here 
 We begin to 1 ome on the siiow sheds, wondrous structures of massive strength, covering 
 in tiie line in order lo preserve it from avalanches. ( )ne sIkhiIiI see tiiis part of the journey 
 to realize its wonders. Tlie train steals along the ledge of the mountains with just room 
 for itself and nothing more, whilst the lonely valley lies one thousand feet beneath. I lere and 
 there on the stee|) mountain side above our heads, yon see the well worn track of the 
 avalanche, and under it, covering in the line right in the track of the deadly slide itself, 
 is the snow shed. One can fiiiicy the train about to enter, and the avalanche starting. 
 On it comes, carrying everything before it, until it leaches the sloping ruuf of the shed, 
 
THE CANADIAN PA(!IKK! KAIIAVAY, 
 
 21 
 
 r, 
 
 '-1 
 O 
 
 ►J 
 
22 A TKITilDAY TRTP VIA 
 
 which it shoots over with case — tlie tniin all the lime running on insiile ;is if an avalanc-hc 
 deserved no more consiileration than an ordinary snow slorm. On reaching these snow 
 sheds, the porter lights the lamps in the car, for it is one continued i)lunge in and out of 
 darkness for ahout twenty miles, and after a little- -as no avalanches are moving to get 
 up an excitement — it becomes ratlier monotonous. 
 
 We now get into sucli a regular jun^^le of mountains, tliat one begins to wonder how 
 we are ever going to get out of them. Up we go, higher and higher, with the Hermit 
 Alountain on one side and Mount Carroll on the other, and preci|)ices of awful depth be- 
 neath and over us — rock. rock, rock, towering over five tlionsand feet above the track, 
 with rivers of ice breaking the whiteness of the snowdrifts — and here, at last, we are in 
 the Rogers Pass, and out of it. down. down, down, till we pull up at the base of Sir 
 Donald, a bare, .awful-looking mountair.. rising, il is said, a mile and a half above the 
 beautiful little Swiss-like hotel whicii we slorm. liunger-smitli'U, at 2 minutes |)ast 14 
 o'clock, or, according to fossil time re<dnls. 2 minutes past 2. 
 
 Standing at the door of this hotel, and looking uj) the mountain lo the right, one 
 can see witiiease the clear outlini' of the giant glacier, the somce and spring of the iliicilli- 
 waet River. We all desired to stop and explore this gla( ier. but to slay meant Iwenly-foiir 
 hours added to our trip, so we agreed to pusii ahead. I had a longing to be allowed on 
 the engine, and liberty was given to myself and our Man.iger to shift our (piarlers ; but 
 when I saw that '• on the engine " meant sitting on a hot iron seal, with our feet hanging 
 over the cow-catcher, and nothing to hold on to but a brass rod, 1 transletied my pass to 
 the Judge, and, after taking a tender farewell of judge and .\binager, went back into the 
 car; and right glad I was I did so, for I luinly believe I wouM have dropped off the 
 engine on the road through sheer giddiness. I,ea\ing the (llacier Hou^e. we got on 
 what is I ailed " 'I'he F.oops.'' one of the most striking feats of engineering, where the 
 line, rimin'ng on lofty trestles, keeps turm'ng hack on itself in order to get down into the 
 valley. On it goes, making a Irestled (airve, then l)ack 011 a lower level parallel with the 
 spot started from, then another curve and a lower level touched, until six lines of railway 
 hang over one another, and ,T descent of >-i\ hundred feet is gained. Looking out i'lom 
 the back of the car. again and again i saw the Manager and Judge holding on bravely as the 
 engine rounded the < inves. with nothing bii' the baii' line before tiiem .ind the terrible 
 trestles beneath. Il may be a vei)' nice thing to he a ().(]. or the manager of a leading 
 paper, hut as I saw these lights of l.iw and the press " ll)ing thiough the air " ahead of me, 
 I really felt as if 1 wf)uld s()r)ner be a lilackfoot Indian, with the solid prairie imder my 
 feet, than either of those gentlemen grachiating on a cow-catcher. They returned to the 
 car at the fnst station, of course delighted with their trip, aiul the other members of the 
 party were equally pleased, for the graduates were restored to us whole, and not in 
 pieces, as once I exj)ected they would be. 
 
 From this out we riui along by the side of the Illicilliwaet, through canyons and 
 snow-slides, and over di/.zy bridges, into the Albert Canyon, where the train stojjped to 
 allow the passengers to look down into the gorge — an awful spot of gloomy sliades and 
 
THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. 23 
 
 fearful depth — and llien finally out of tlie close confinement of the great mountains into 
 the lovely wooded and watered scenery of Hritish Columbia. Here we pass lake after 
 lake of surpassing beauty, and at S or 20 o'clock are skirting an arm of the Great Shus- 
 wap Lake — a glorious sheet of water, that from its peculiar shape has been compared to 
 an octopus spreading its arms out as if to drag within its embrace the mountain ridges 
 that rise up all about it. The sun was setting as we followed in and out the many wind- 
 ings of this charming lake, and night closed in as we were skirting closely its sandy 
 beach. 
 
 KkiDAV, July 6. — Up very early, to find ourselves travelling along the Fraser, the 
 chief river of Hritish Columbia, I'ajiid in (low, muddy in appearance, iind pushing its way 
 ihrou^ii a magnificent canyon called the FrasL-r Canyon. We breakfasted at North 
 I5end at 7.30 and had a rich bamiuet of fruit, peaches, apricots, large purple plums and 
 oranges. Leaving the IJend sharp on time we passed through a series of tunnels cut out 
 of the rocks on the bare niountain side, the river running deep down beneath us. This 
 whole section of country is very beautifiil, as the mountains are wooded in some 
 jila from base to summit. All the worUiuen you see along the line are China- 
 men — melancholy liKcd. plailed-haireil. low stunted looking Chinamen — some of them the 
 ugliest looking mortals I ever looked at, but, for men doing hard railway work, unusually 
 clean looking. At Vale, a village locked up in glorious wooded mountains, we saw from 
 tlie track a modest Joss house, just like any other frame house, except that it had vermilion 
 colored boards, all covered with Chinese characters, hung up on its front. Yale is a 
 lovely spot, and from this on past Nicomeu the scenery is exijuisite. The moimtains are 
 much smaller than those we have been passing through, more roinuied, and stand apart 
 from eacli ;^i(k• of the track far from each (Xlier, with a richly wooded and broken uj) 
 undulating countr\ lying between the ranges, whilst the I'raser River has widened out 
 into a large sheet of water. .M'ler the canyons and gorges and tunnels one feels as if at 
 last we were breathing natur.illy, ;ind the change is in every way pleasing. 
 
 •At I,?. .30, to the moment of time, we drew up at the Vancouver Station, the Pacific 
 terminus ni' the great railway that we had journeyed on for two thousand nine hundred 
 and six miles. We were met at the station by Mr. drowning, who not only was kind 
 enough to meet us, but added to that, the greater kindness of promising to remain with 
 us and pilot us about X'aiK oiiver. Here let me say that it is a capital thing 10 travel, 
 as we are doing, under the charge of our (leneral AL'uiager. He knows everybody; 
 everybody knows him. and everywhere his friends adopted the whole crowd straight off. 
 
 The C. I'. R. Hotel, in every way a first-class house, gave us splendid accommoda- 
 tion, and when we went into the luncheon room, instead of finding ourselves in a strange 
 place, we discovered familiar faces from east and west and north and south. The legal 
 profession was strongly rejuesented, as a great arbitration case between the C.P.R. and 
 the (lovernment was in process of investigation, and I was glad to meet Mr. B. J{. Osier, 
 of Toronto, and other old friends and parishioners. After luncheon, Mr. Browning had 
 a carriage and pair ready and we started for the park. This park, obtained from the 
 
24 
 
 A lldLIDAY TRIP VIA 
 
 
 
 s^;^r-';>^^ 
 
 (lOVcrmiH'iU, cDiilaiiis oiii' llioiisand acres, aiul llic < (ir|ioiMliiiii nl the city air ci|icniiii,' it up 
 witli I'lrst class loails. like llioso <it tin.' Muuiilaiii I'aik iii Moiiinal. Nolliini; ,:;i\i.s (nio a 
 ( Icarcr idea of tlie jiiisli and eihi-\ of Xam <aivi'i tliaii liu' m.ikiii^ nt' iliis park. Uir laiH)' 
 a city, llirci- years did. levelling and niaki;!., r;; kU tlii<)iii;li a streii li ul nne ili()ii>and aires 
 for the lienel'ilol a (onnnunily yet l.,ii;ely In he tiirinc<l. I alw.iys loved the luish. Imt I 
 never realized what iis full beauty was until I luok thi> diive. I he ni.uK wind in and out 
 (if a forest of brightest foliage, studded with tue^ that miglil be sl\ K d inonan li>. emperors, 
 niikados of forest royaltv. Iroin one luuidied to one Imntlrid and fitly leet high and of 
 proimrtionate girth. Mr. jirowning jiiilled out a tape line and nieasiired two of tiiese 
 giant.s. One, a eid.ir, nieasiired ^i\ly-fi\e feet three iiK lies .it four from the baM', fifty 
 
THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. 25 
 
 (ect lound when measured ten feet from tlie ground, and the other, a Douglas pine, forty- 
 five feet some feet from the base. We pulled down raspberry branches from bushes, 
 standing ten and fifteen feet high, and picked dic^c aerial berries and consumed them 
 on the si)ot. In short, vc never saw sucli luxurious growth, trees and flowers and 
 ferns all bearing testimony to the teeming life of the soil. On our way into the 
 park Mr. lirowning showed us what I certainly thought was a collection of styes 
 for a largf l)ri'ed of Ihitish Columbian pig, but he informed us that it was a Chinese 
 si|uattcr settlement, put up by Chinese workmen. We got out of the carriage to ex- 
 plore the st'ltlement, and a ipieerer place I was never in. The houses were made of 
 cninmon sl;ib boards run into the ground and roofed over either with loose slabs or sticks, 
 and were so low that a five-foot man would. I fancy, have to bend his head when moving 
 inside of them. Kvery house had the owner's name (I suppose) written on a piece of 
 paper in C'hiiuse c:hara(ter^ pasted on the door, and every door was locked. I looked 
 into one of these !alii>utian shanties through one of the wide cracks in the boards and 
 could see a slab table and a slab chair, but no sign of a Ijed. It was dean and tidy 
 lodking. the nnid lloor swept and level. K\ery shanty had a garden attached to it. and I 
 I inir to the (DMchision that, if Canadians only cultivated patches of groand as Chinamen 
 do, ivery inch that belonged to a market gardener would bear its crop. Some of these 
 gardens were not larger than the cover of a piano, and even the banks that held up the 
 sliantiis were < ulii\aled, growing salad, parsley, etc. On our way back we met the 
 ountisoi' the shanties rt'turning from work. They were a much brighter crowd than 
 tluii bntluvn wlicini we saw working on the track. Tluy were all young, walked (|uick, 
 and had a happy. <<)iUented look about iheni. and were the <:leanest looking bod\- of 
 woikineii nlurning rmiii a (lay'>. work 1 ever saw. 
 
 Mli'r dinner we walked over X'.mcouver, whiclt lies spread out along the waters of 
 Coal Harbor, but is strel< hing back its streets every day. In iSSo this (^ity was a forest, 
 and the first buildings weir destroyed by lire, leaving only one house standing. It has 
 iiow a population nf nearly nine thousand, its wide and well jilanked streets are lighted both 
 li\ l;,!-- and elrctiicily. the >ide walks are broad and well laid, fine brick and stone blocks of 
 liiiililings are in cour-*e of erei tioii, ihe private resiilen<:es are viiy pretty, and the hotel is 
 Well worthy of either Montii'al or Toroiitf). The harbor accommodation is splendiil. 
 illiuving the largest steamers to discharge their cargoes, and the buildings of the C. 1'. R. 
 -■lieds, store houses etc, testify to the living failh that the company nnist have in the 
 liitiiie of the city. During our walk 1 could not help thinking that Montreal might learn 
 not .1 little from \',incou\er with regard to the N'ancoiiver method of naming the streets. 
 At every street corner there are black boards pointing e.ist and west and north and south, 
 with ihe names of the streets painted on ihein in clean white letters that the most near- 
 sighted man could read with ease. I'.verywhere there are evidences of life and energy and 
 vigor. In fact the streets thrill with signs of determination to push on and make X'ancouver, 
 w hat I think it is very likely it will yet be, a great Canadian city binding the east and 
 west of the world together. 
 
26 A HOLIDAY TRIP VIA 
 
 Sa TURPAY, July 7. — Up at S, breakfast at 9 o'clock, and after breakfast walked down 
 to visit tlie S. S. " Parthia," which arrived during tlie night straiglit from China, with 
 seven hundred Ciiinamen on board, tlie bulk of them going to San Francisco, It seemed 
 strange, this jjaipable evidence of the C. P. R.'s success in bringing Canada into touch with 
 the East. Thirteen days ago this ship left China with her cargo of China tea and Chinamen, 
 and this morning the tea is piling up on the wharf, and the Ciiinarnen about to land in 
 Canada are jiassing the Custom House officer and getting " out of bond," for tea and 
 men alike are articles subject to duty. We were allowed on board at once, and went 
 through the vessel. Some of the Chinamen were lying in their bunks, smoking long 
 opium iii|)es ; others were getting their heads shaved — dry shaving — the hair being neatly 
 caught in a spre.id out fan, held by the gentleman getting shaved ; otiiers were gettinj:^ their 
 jiigtails ornamented, and others were leaning over the sides of the ship, chattering like 
 monkeys, or crowded round the gangway striving to tlodge the Custom House officers, and 
 land without the usual formalities. As a rule, these men were gre.it strapping fellows, 
 six feet high and well juoportioned. On enquiry I found that they came from the north 
 of China and from a part of the north renowned for the strength and stature of its 
 children. 
 
 Here I came across (leorge Brown, of Hamilton, who fills a res|)onsib!e position in 
 
 the C. P. R being station master and .accountable for Chinese emigrants. He w.is so 
 
 busy that I did not want to bother him. but made an appointment to see him on my 
 return. 
 
 At 2,30 — ^4.30 o'clock — we left Vancouver in the S. S. " Voscmitc' for Victori;i, the 
 capital of British Columbia. The sail is very beautiful once you strike the islands, whii h 
 put one in mind of the islands in the St. Lawrence. Here we got a magnificent view 
 of .Mt. Baker, in Washington territory, thirteen thousand feet high, and covered with 
 snow, and also of the Olympian range lying .along the peninsula, running out into the 
 Pacific. The c;iplain of the ship, it turned out. was well ac(iuainted with my old friend 
 Rdberls. who. sjiiie of his weak health, is working amongst and greatly beloved by the 
 Indians on Cuiiper Island and along the coast. 
 
 We arrived in Victoria at 8 o'clock, and walked up to the Driard House, which 
 turned out to be the most comfortable hotel I ever stopped in. We had lofty well- 
 ventilated rooms, admirable attendance in room and at table, and the cookery would 
 have done credit to the best managed club. .After we had washed and rubbed off marks 
 of journeying we started to see ihe sights by gaslight. Victoria struck us as a calm, 
 take it-easy kind of a city, as comi)ated vvith Vancouver. It is full of Chinese, all the 
 servants and cooks and laborers in the streets, and even sailors are Chinese; in fact, if 
 you deduct Chinese life from \'it:toria, you woukl, I fancy, leave it outwardly at all 
 events rather a slow place. -As it is, the Vancouverites call the Vi- torians " Moss-backs,'' 
 because they move so slowly the moss is apt to break out on them. This of course is 
 libellous, but Victoria gave us the idea ot a staid Knglish city rather than a rushing 
 Canadian one. Nature has done a great deal for \'ictoria, which is most beautiluily 
 
THE CANADIAN PAOlFir RATTAVAY. 
 
 27 
 
 u. 
 
 o 
 
 siiiiMtod, with tlic sra tliroi' pails aliout il in iiilits. Tlie huililings. as cnmpaieil willi 
 lliosc of Winnipeg;, arc iioor. liiit tlii' sluils arc wide and well side-walked, and li^'iiled 
 with elertricity. 
 
 SiNii.w. Sill July. -I he aiiol \ ieluiia is vci\ lialmy. Iitit as Mrs. MalajUDp would 
 sa)', 1 diink it is " dci)iliatint; " lor strani;ers, so much so that none of us moved in our 
 respective beds till hnll'iiasl S o'clock. Alter lueaktast we went to service at the 
 Cathedral which is •' highish " rather than " high." There was a lair congregation, boys' 
 choir, \c. Tiie seivice was iiitoned, and .\rchdeacoii Scriveii preached a good practical 
 
28 A HOMDAY TRIP VIA 
 
 sermon on the text — " I saw no temple tliere." We rested during the afternoon, and at 
 7 o'clock went to the church of which the Rev. I'ercival Jcnns is rector. To the eye this 
 church appears " high," but there was a regular old Hishioned service, and the rector 
 l>reached a splendidly thought out seinion on — " Whatsoever a man soweth that shall 
 he also reap." He is a handsome, intellectual-looking man of uncertain age, and his de- 
 livery, although ]Kculiar. was to nie singularly i)leasing. After church we took a long 
 walk up to the part of the town where the private dwellings are. There are no very 
 grand houses, hut a larL'e number of very comfortable ones with garclens about them. It 
 is plain tli.at the Victorian climate is very mild, for ivy, holly, and woodbine gi(<w 
 luxuriantly, and the arbutus is quite; a common tree in the woods. Kverywhcre the 
 gardens looked lovely, and such a show of roses I have never seen outside of Kngkind. 
 
 Twice during the day we came across the .Salvation Army, but the climate I think 
 tells even on it, for the big drum was by no means noisy, the girls' voices were toned 
 down, the ie<ruits few, and in fact, the whole thing appeared '' debili.iled." 
 
 MiiNiMV, (jth July. — Slept like a graven image till half-|)ast eight, when I was awoke 
 by some one knocking at my door as if the house was on fne. It turned out to be a 
 morning call by Dr. Walkem on Canon Kmpson -an old Sunday .School s( liolar hunting 
 uj) his old Sunday .School teacher. At lo o'clock, the Rev. Mr. ISeanfield, the Rector of 
 the Cathedral, called to bring us through Chinatown and to the joss House. Chin.atown 
 consists of three cross streets running between two of the main streets of the city ; one 
 part is |)oor-!ooking, consisting of old sheds and houses, which we were told are ciamined 
 with the lowest of the Chinese, but the shops in the other part are just as ris|iectable 
 looking, as clean and business-like, as any of the otiier shojts in tlie city — doctors, dry 
 goods, hardwire, brass workers, jewellers, barbers, etc-. Sonu' of the men we saw were 
 sjilendid looking fellows, and not a few handsome ; but the majority m.ade a panorama of 
 the most wi/ened, wrinkled, saddest faces I ever looked at. They all appeared very 
 civil and good hinnored, answering good natu redly any (jiiestion you asked them. Inder 
 the kind escort of Mr. Heanfield, we went into the Joss or idol house— a long room that at 
 fnst sight had the general ajipearance of a small ritualistic chinch, from the banners and 
 hangings on the walls, and the general glitter of the whole affair; indeed, we could not 
 help feeling th.U we were in a jilace of worship, and all our hats went off n.iturally. On the 
 left of the door as you enter, there is a holy lunbrella, made ajiparently of costly material 
 and most elaborately Worked ; this hangs from the ceiling. .\exl, going towards what 
 might be called the chancel, is a large niet.d bell, without a tongue, richly |)ainted in 
 brilliant colors, and then a double row of spears and dragon-headed weapons. On the 
 other side of the room there is a large painted drum, and l)eyond that, towards the 
 chancel, another line of si)ears and weapons. Then c rossing the room at the top are 
 three wooden structures. The first is .m elaborately worked slab, with table top. The 
 slab is crowded with carved figures descriptive of some holy story from the sacred 
 classics, and the table top is covered with sacred sti( ks in cases, illuminated scrolls, 
 shining ornament,, banners, etc. hlach sacred stii k h.is a chapter .md verse of Chinese 
 
THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. 29 
 
 Scripture written on it ; and the proper thing to do is to take one of these sticks and 
 bring it over to a pigeon holed case, in which the wliole written text may be found. 
 This, when drawn out, tells the fortune of the worshipper for that day. Hehind this 
 table is another, bright and glittering, with a sacred lamp burning in front of it, the whole 
 arrangement having the general appearance of a Roman Catholic altar. Behind this 
 again is a kind of sacred grotto, in the middle of which is seated a large figure of a man, 
 with almond-sha])C(l eyes and long hair, and a regular old-fashioned Chinese hat on his 
 head. We could find out notliing as to what form of Chinese fixith this Joss was 
 connected with ; but as it cerlainly was not Ikiddhist, I supjiose it was Taoist, and that 
 the figure was that of l,ao 'I's/e, the old ]iliilMso|ih':r. 'I'his. however, is mere conjecture 
 on my |)art. Mr. Iieanfielu says that the (Chinese walk in and out of the \)hnc without 
 the slightest a|>pearance of reverence, but all this may be assiuncd, for, according to 
 De (^uatrcfages, idolaters often pur|)osely assume in the presence of strangers a m.inner 
 wholly different from that which is natural, in order to keep their real religious views 
 hidden from outsiders. 
 
 After our visit to Chinatown we went uj) to the courts and the Pariiamcnt Houses, 
 strange Chinese looking buildings of brick, situated in very beautifully kept gardens. 
 The l.cgislalive Chambers were given up loan examination of school-teachers, so we only 
 looked in. but really there was nothing to see beyond a plain room, very old fashioned in 
 appearance. We then went to llie courts where a '-special court ofappeal was being held. 
 Tlio judges and lawyers were got up in regular Old ('ounlry style, wigs ami gowns and 
 b.inds, but a general spirit of legal languor appeared lo rule throughout the |)recincts. The 
 jiulgi> eiUered, the Bar, i onsisting ot thne lawyers. ai\d the public, ( onsisting of the 
 Montreal lour, all rose to their feel anil tluti an effort was matle to begin business, t'almly 
 the clerk « .died case after case, with motUst gentleness each lawyer slated he was nol 
 exactly ready to proceed, or nol at all ready, or being partially ready was willing to 
 po-^tlMine. and in ipiiel tones the lieiich asked the liar when it woidd be convenient to go 
 on ; one judgi' with just .i ripple of aulhoriiy p.is^ing over his voice staling "that it was 
 really loo bad to bring ihe lien* h such distances for nothing, but thai it was always so 
 in N'icloria,'" or words to that effect. Finally, after sundry efforts on the part of every 
 one to oblige everybody else. I think il was det ided to adjourn till August, and as none 
 of the clients were in <t»urt, everybody appeared pleased and the Bench bowed to the 
 Bar and the Mar to the Heiich and the ( rowd dispersed. 
 
 After luncheon, Mr. Baker, ISI.l'., ( alkd with a carriage and pair, and drove the 
 whole party to Issciuimault, where there is ,i fine graving doek, four hundred ami fifty feet 
 long and ninety feet wide, with a depth of twenty-six feet. It is a magnificent piece of 
 stonework, and the machinery in connec lion with it is well worth seeing. I'roin the dock 
 we went to the arsenal, whence we had some glorious views. Indeed one could easily 
 fancy one's self in Kugland, houses and liowers, and the rich green grass, and soft sweet 
 air, and beautiful harbour all combining to make one fiiiicy he was in the old world 
 once again. We diove back along a well made road, winding in and out through a rich 
 
30 A HOLIDAY TlllP VIA 
 
 forest and reached our iio'.el, full of gratitude to Mr. ]Jaker, who not only had given us 
 one of the loveliest drives a party could well take, hut the pleasure of his company which 
 was a treat in itself 
 
 Tuesday. loth July.— On hoard the \oscniite again with fues turned homeward, 
 ready to retrace our steps to Port Arlhui, where we had made up our minds to take the 
 C. P. R. hoat .across Lakes Superior and Huron to Owen Souiul, and come home hy 
 Toronto. Left Victoria at 2 o'clock a.m., having gone on hoard at 9 o'clock, and reached 
 Vancouver at alxjut <) o'cloc k on Tuesday morning. Al'ler hreakfasl ;i numher of visiiors 
 called, and at 1 i o'clock we hrouglil down our traps to the station, visited (Icorge Mrown, 
 and loafed round ahout the h;irhoui till ime o'cNu k, when the train lelt. Just as we left, a 
 kind friend of Mr. While's, Mr. Winch, hrouglil a large hox of fruit into tiie car for our 
 special comfort along the road — cherries, plums, peaches, apricots, jiears, ajiples— a lavish 
 present that not only kept us going diuing the jourr.ey, hut also our fellow passengers. 
 
 Our journey hiune w. IS just as ple.is.uU as the journey out, for although we passed 
 over the same ground, we ihd so witii a knowledge of our ever (hanging surroundings, and 
 were in ;i position to look oiU for special places and things that we had pn.vicjusly left 
 lunioticed. 
 
 I have said little ahout the social aspn ts of the journey, whii h are many .ind \eiy 
 l)leasureahle, for just .is in an AllaiUii su.nmr, the passengers in tlue timr get i liatty and 
 agreeahK', hooks Ikm onic ( oinmoii pidpcily, and se.its Iosl' the .ispei t d pid|iiiitorship su 
 plainly visihle at the start, llu; smoking room iiowivir. is the griat resort lor smoking 
 piirpOM >. contimied (nn\ers,ition. and a ho for getting a 1 lear viiw ol tiieiountiy. ( )n 
 oiu' way out the platlbrm w.is crowded witii hidics all liirongh the luuunt.iins, the genili' 
 men, of course, taking hai k se.ils or iianging on to the lower step of the cirriage. JJut 
 the smoking-room, wiielher you smoki- or not, is the ple.isantest part of the cai, if only (o 
 hear the cosmopolitan ic)n\ersalioii ( .irricd on in it. One ilay a gentleman gave us a 
 long di'Scri|)tion of the raihvay system in India and of the licenst.' laws in New Zealand, 
 We had ilescriptions of Jiisman k, the dere.iscil l''.m|>cr(;rs, the priscnt I'auperor and \'on 
 Moltke from a tierman gviitieman who might well have passed himself off as iJismarck's 
 brother. We had chats ahout sleighing in Northern Russia, ahotil simsets in Norway, 
 and hush life in .Australia, and one would fancy that Kngland, I'r.ince, (lerni.iny, Japan 
 and China were stations on the road, one heard so nnu h ahout them. \ straw shows 
 how the wind hlows, and no one (cjuld ask for clearer evidence of the wi\- in which 
 the ('. 1'. R. has hrought Canada into touch with the most widely separated parts of the 
 world than the cosmojiohtan talk that a silent man <.in listen to in the well cushioned 
 smoking-room of a C. 1*. R. i)arh;r car. 
 
 It is wonderful how the time Hies on so long a jomney. One can read most com- 
 fortahly hoth day and night, and pillows are provided for day snoo/ers. 'I'hose who like 
 cards, play cards, cither in their compartments or in the smoking room ; little children run 
 ahout the long car just as in their jiarlors at home ; the ladies sew and work, and others 
 
THE CANADIAN TACIFIO RAIIAVAY, 
 
 31 
 
 write long letters or make notes of the journey. In fact, once tlie hand luggage is stowed 
 away, it is hard to realize that you arc travelling by train at all. 
 
 The return journey has one advantage about it not found when outward bound, 
 namely, the superior view that one gets of such places as the Albert Canyon and the 
 Kicking Horse PasH. On the return, the grade is continuously heavy, and the train has to 
 travel very slowly. Then one is prepared for the wonders of these startling places, and 
 more careful attention can be given to Iheni. 
 
 At Port Arthur we changed to the steamer, which left at 3 o'clock on Saturday, 
 and reached Owen Soimd on Monday morning at n o'clock, having been delayed by a 
 
 (-ANADIAN I'.Vt. II U IjAKI, Sri AMI.K : OUKN Sol ND AND PoRT AKIIUK. 
 
 fdg hanging round the entrance to llie Soiiiul. The line of boats running between Port 
 Arthur and Owen Sound have the appearance of ocean going steamers, and are almost 
 as long, and the passengers are accomnuidated with the finest, airest saloons I ever saw on 
 any steamboat. The private cabins are large and the bertlis wide; in fact, nothing is 
 left iiiulone to make what is at times, I fancy, a rough voyage as comfortable for the 
 passenger as it can be made. On Sunday we had service at 10.30 a.m. and at 8 o'clock 
 p.m., and the day passed over very happily. We reached Toronto about 3 o'clock, left 
 at 8. 30, and arrived safe, sound, thankful and hai)]»y at our starting-point in Montreal on 
 Wednesday morning at 8 o'clock, having travelled close on six thousand miles between 8 
 o'clock i).m. Wednesday, the 27di of June, and 8 o'clock a.m. Tuesday, the 17th of July. 
 The party realized all through the journey, and above all, at the dose, when accounts 
 had to be sipiared, the wisdom they displayed in their appointment of theOeneral Manager, 
 who ' ran " the whole trij) from start to finish. Nothing could have been better done 
 (and nothing was left undone) to make things run smooth. He asked questions, laid out 
 trips, hunted up advisers, paid the bills, and kept up his .spirits all the time. No curious 
 
82 A HOLIIUY TKJP VI.\ TlIK C. l\ 11. 
 
 problem was left by him unsolvod. iiithoii^'h ho was not the member of the party who 
 had the supreme impiidence to le:m ai ross the counter of a shop in N'ictoria and inno- 
 cently ask the salesman : " Pray, sir, loiiid you tell me why tiie people in Vancouver call 
 the people in \'ictoria Moss-backs ? " 
 
 And so, home again once more, the happy party bmkt' up. 'I'lie .Manager went 
 back to his newsjiaper, the Judge to his office, the .Sec retary to his i)arisii work, and the 
 Canon to a careful revision of the proofs of the report of tiie Synod of the Diocese of 
 Montreal for the year i.SSS. li.K k they went from pleasure l.< duty, after three weeks of 
 unruttled good-fellowship on the longest, the most pinutiial. and (I think I may fairly 
 say) the best-eciuippcd line on this continent — the ('anai!i;.\) [';h itu: Kailway. Success 
 to it. 
 
^s?'v^"*^; ■■'■' 
 
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