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The EDITH and LORNE PIERCE COLLECTION of CANADI ANA ^een's University at Kingston CAMPOBELLO AN HISTORICAL SKETCH BY KATE GANNETT WELLS Fo " Story and its William To him, few of For those who are desirous of exact knowledge concerning the "Story of the Boundary Line," and the political history of Eastport and its vicinity, there is no more comprehensive work than that by William Henry Kilby, Esq., entitled, - Eastport and Passamaquoddy." To him, and also to two friends who kindly gave me the names of a few of the Island flowers, do I express my gratitude. -^ Canjpobello. kpHE mysterious charms of ancestry and yellow parchment, of petitions I -^ to the admiralty and royal grants of land, of wild scenery and feudal loyalty, of rough living and knightly etiquette, have long clustered round a little island off the coast of Maine, called on the charts Passa- maquoddy Outer Island, but better known under the more pleasin- name [of Campobello. ^ Its Discovery. It belongs to the region first discovered by the ,1'rench, who, under Sieur De Monts, in the spring of 1604, sailed along the shores of Nova Scotia, and gave the name of Isle of Margos (mag- pies) to the four perilous isla .ds now called The W olves ; beheld Manthane (now Grand Manan); sailed up the St. Croix; and established themselves on one of its islands, which they called the Isle of St. Croix. The severity of the winter drove them in the following summer to Annapolis, and for more than a hundred and fifty years little was known of this part of the [country, though the River St. Croix first formed the boundary between ' Acadia and New England, and later the boundary between the Provinces I of Nova Scotia and Massachusetts Bay. Campobello itself could scarcely be said to have a history till towards the end of the eighteenth century. Moose roamed over the swamps and ! looked down from the bold headlands ; Indians crossed from the mainland and shot them ; straggling Frenchmen, dressing in skins, built huts aLng the northern and southern shores, till civilization dawned through the squatter sovereignty of two men, Hunt and Flagg. They planted the apple trees whose gnarled branches still remain to tell of the winter storms that howled across the plains, and converted the moose-yards into a fir Id 1 of oats, for the wary, frightened animals vacated their hereditary land in tavor of these usurpers. Their mercantile skill taught them how to use 6 for purposes of trade rather than for private consumption, the shoals of I hsh which It was firmly believed Providence sent into the bay. Post Office. There were not enough inhabitants to justify the main- enance of a post office till 1795 ; then the mails came once in two weeks I Lewis Frederic Delesdernier was the resonant, high sounding name of the first postmaster who lived at Flagg's Point (the Narrows). But when a post office was opened in Eastport, in ,805, this little Island one was abandoned, or rather it dwindled out of existence before the larger one established by Admiral Owen at Welsh I'ool. Welsh Pool. The Narrows, because of its close proximity to the mainland, was a favorite place of abode in those early days Yet Friir's Bay, two miles to the north, was a safe place for boats in easterly storms and thus, before the advent of the Owens, a hamlet had clustered around what IS now called Welsh Pool. A Mr. Curry was the pioneer. The house opposite the upper entrance to the Owen ^ main was called Cum House until it became "the parsonage," a name abandoned when thr present rectory was built. Curry traded with the West Indies, and owned It is said, two brigs and a bark. People also gathered at the upper end of the Island, Wilson's Beach and on the road between Sarawac and Conroy's Bridge, where there were several log houses. Qarrlson's Grandparents. That some kind of a magistrate or minister even then was on the Island is attested by the fact that Willia. Lloyd Garrison's grandparents, Andrew Lloyd and Mary Lawless, chanced to come to Nova Scotia on the same ship from Ireland, and were married to each other "the day after they had landed at Campobello, March 30, 177 1. Lloyd became a commissioned pilot at Quoddy, and died in 1813, His wife was the first person buried in Deer Island. Their daughter Panny was Garrison's mother. Many of the early inhabitants were Tories from New York Some were of Scotch origin, especially those who lived on the North Road Captain Storrow. Among these settlers was a young British offi- cer. Captain Thomas Storrow, who, while he was prisoner of war fell in Ilove with Ann Appleton, a young girl of Portsmouth, N.H. In vain did Iher family object, ♦♦ British officers being less popular then than now ; but lyoung love prevailed," and the marriage, which took place in 1777, "was la happy one." Captain Storrow took his bride to England ; but after a jwhile sailed for Halifax, where they remained ** nearly two years." In J 1 785 they went to St. Andrews. Through the courtesy of their grandson, Icolonel Thomas Wentworth Higginson, the following extract is given from a manuscript sketch of the life of Mrs. Storrow, prepared by her niece, I Mrs. Norman Williams: — False Sale. '«Soon after this (1785) they removed to Campobello, I which had been purchased by Mr. Butler and Captain Storrow. There were two houses on the Island, one for each family, and here they lived very happily and pleasantly. There was always a garrison at St. Andrews, and a ship of war stationed near Campobello; so Captain Storrow had congenial society, and they had many pleasant lady friends, and, as their hospitality was unbounded, they were seldom without company at one or the other of the houses. . . . All was bright and prosperous. Uut a change came. In 1790 or 1791 the Butlers and Captain Storrow had gone to Halifax on business, and Mrs. Storrow was left alone with her children on the Island, when a notice was served to her that she must I quit the Island immediately, as it had been sold to them under a false I title, and the real owner had come to take possession. The Island had I been granted by William Fitt to his former tutor, David Owen, a hard man who would not move from the position he had taken. Mrs. Storrow sent to my father, who was her husband's lawyer, and he, with some other I gentlemen, chartered a sloop and brought the family to St. Andrews, where I a house was already prepared for them. Here they remained a year or more. But Capt. Storrow's finances were so crippled by the loss of Campobello that he and his family sailed for Jamaica, where he had a small estate." William Owen. David Owen, to whom this manuscript referred, was a cousm of William Owen, through whom the Island became con- nected by royal gift and by romance with the fortunes cf his immediate 8 descendants. As naval officer William Owen bad been "in all the service and ente prise where ships, boats, and seamen were employed," had la- bored at Bengal for the re-estabiishment of the affairs of the East India Company, and had fought under Clive. At the blockade of Pondicherry he lost his right arm, and the Sunderland, to which he belonged, having foundered, he was ordered to England. Bxoken in spirit and weak in body, the copy of what was presumably his memorial to the Admiralty in 1 761 has a piteo'v^s sound. It begins : — His Petition. " My Lord, permit me, with the most profound re- spect, to lay by your Lordship a true State of my past service, with the accidents that happened to me during the same, praying your Lordship not to judge hard of me, in being reduced to the disagreeable necessity of doing that myself which would appear in a much more favorable light were any 01 my Friends in Town who could take the Liberty of Intro- ducing me to your Lordship." After recounting the services he rendered, and the injuri-is he rece'^ed, he ends with these words : " I beg you will be pleased to represent to the Right Honorable the Lord;> of the Ad- miralty that I am the person mentioned in Admiral Steuen's [the spelling is illegible] Letter to have lost my Right Arm, wher I had the Honor of Commanding one of the Divisions of Boats ordered by him to cut out the Two French Ships, La Baline and Hermione, from under the Guns of Pondicherry, on the 7 th of October last, and that I had been wounded before in that country with a Musket Ball, which lodged in my Body above three years and *ha!i. My long service in the East Indies, to- gether with the Wounds I received, having greatly impaired my health, lays me under a necessity to hi the more urgent with you on this occasion, that I may the sooner go into the Country to endeavor to re-establish the same, as well as to see my Friends, from whom I have been above nine years ab'-ent. Let me, therefore, Sir, entreat you to move their Lordships in my behalf, humbly praying that they will be pleased to direct some- thing to be done for me, either by Gratuity, Pension, or Preferment, such as their Lordships may deem me to deserve," 9 »S0. After long atterll and ^ sXitlt" I " IT """^^ off with a pitiful Pension, with which f a™ g^^^^i^^VZ r '"' try among my Relations for the remainder of Jr 1 "" ::^^r "Th '° ^-"'^ - '° °^"" -:L::^L""z'r:T:::' r:e:id-waL\-;rsi\nt;-^^^^^^^^^^^ ■- n: , and Regard which'l had " o ma ine strsteT^e "" "^f^'" I the five years we Messed together," ''"" "' ''"""« j This beseeching letter must have been eftectuil ■ for in .„ he d d receive not onlv th-,nU= , j enectual , tor m course of time [and Flagg had ruled ' '"""'°" °* '"^ '-^'-" -»-" Hunt Ito o„e;Co:en i'dl^'Z s tT^ 't '''" '""'' *™ "^ ^^-^ I;... .e Whole fsland mi^t t^^^.Te ^ :^ ^Z ^ ^ \o ml" olHZ', ,!:T''""'I' : ''^^ '"^ I^'-d was deeded k„. Jr., wiri " ate , , ,'' ^"'"'' °™^^' ^^^^ ^"d "'""am h p-a:a,Udro t iisT rr' <'° ^^r^'^"' ^■■^"s^'' '^^ "-« he .onor'sname and .r ^ampobello, thus "punning on |t was like XYdmirtt "'""'"'■ ''"' '"^"'^ "' "^^ "=""-' --^ry." o.eandasut;tttt:bnL;:r-„::r""" '-"- -* » -th'':oun'tr:LonTolTe "?" '"""^'"""^' ''™"^'" "^ ^-» '■•« t-.agai„^n-:r:et.C---™^^ 10 I ! <|! David Owen. David Owen acted as agent for the grantees, and was a veritable lord of the Island, always interested in protecting the fisheries. His house, near the site of the cottage now owned by James Roosevelt, Esq., had even more roof than the usual sloping, barn-like home of former days. He built a rude church, read the service, and preached. What matter if the sermon was oft repeated, or now and then was original ! Could not he, though a layman, best tell the needs of his congregation ? He played the fiddle for dances, married the people, scolded them as a self-constituted judge, and kept a journal of Island events in microscopic chirography. He was an occasional correspondent of the " Eastport Sentinel " on matters of British history and theological controversy. " He had a fine library of old books, and was well versed in scholastic subjects," said Dr. Andrew Bigelow, the first Unitarian minister of Eastport, who often visited him. To " Hue and Cry." Once David Owen committed to the gaol in St. Andrews a Frenchman, for "feloniously taking and carrying away some fish from flakes at Campobello." As the offender went on his way to gaol in his own vessel, he threw overboard the deputy sheriff who ac- companied him, drew his dirk on the other man and compelled him to follow, and then escaped himself with his own vessel. Therefore, Owen advertised in the " Sentinel " of September 25, 18 19, " To all officers and others to whom the execution hereof may belong ... to search for the said Appleby [the Frenchman], and therefore to ' /lue and cry ' after him i as the law directs." Signed " D. Owen, J.P." When David died he left his share of the land to William Owen, Jr, This younger Owen sold Campobello, which had now come into his sole j possession, to William Fitz-Williaro, who, as the natural son of the Owen of Pondicherry fame, could obtain possession only through purchase of | his father's grant. Primitive Life. Island life was still very primitive. The people raised stock, and the creatures led on the wild grass and young hemlock, But, as David had freely deeded the land to the settlers, the underbrush was soon killed off and stock raising ceased. The Campobellians also r\ 11 3roved no exception to the rule that agriculture is seldom a favorite occu- pation with those who can support themselves by the precarious life of ishermen, even if that has its perils. Illness. Here, too, as everywhere in pioneer life, the women suffered IS much as, if not more than, the men. When sickness came upon them [they endured it patiently, with that kind of meek despair which looks upon illness either as fate or as the will of the Lord. Fortunately for them, a ^oung girl, who had been born on the Island, became at sixteen a skilful uirse. She was sought from far and near, and taken out at night when she had to be blindfolded on account of the storms. The description of 3ne of her visits must be given in her own words, as she told it when she [was eighty-four : — The Indian's Squaw. "Once I and my husband were abed a lowling night, and I heard a knock. Says I, 'Jim, I bet that's for me; ?et up and see.' And I sorter guessed it was a foreigner. And he came Dack and says, ' P. (that's what he called me, short for Parker), it's an Indian from down on the Narrows ; and he's been for the doctor, and he's jdown at Robinson, and won't be fetched 'cause he's having a good time.' So I got up and dressed and went down with him ; for the squaw's skin vas as dear to her husband as a white woman's is to her, and her heart lay be just as good to God. And when I got there I saw two squaws, ind one was all in a heap ; and they made eyes at me, and I didn't know Jvhether it meant murder or not, only I guessed not. And I says, ' Sister, vhat is it > ' And she says, her husband tell her ' white doctor no come! Vou white woman come and make his squaw live.' So I went to work. Vnd when all was right, they wanted me to take a blanket and lie down ; but I could no way make believe Indian, so I sits up till morning. Then fhe Indian asked me what he should give me ; and I told him my gineral J)rice was three dollars, but when folks was no better off than I, I turned fn and asked nothin'. And he says, * We give five dollars if it's a girl, and three dollars if it's a boy.' ' Well,' I says, ' sure enough it's a boy ' ; md I come home. And next day he travels down here [to the Pool], and ^ays me better than man doctor, and wished he could give me twentv dollars." ^ 12 m W "ii'l I'll! Some sixty years aft;) this incident had occurred, when Mrs. Parket was driven up to the Narrows where the squaw had lived, and pas: the Tyn-Y-C:oed and cottages, that she might see the changes which time hadl wrought, she exclaimed, " As the Bible says, now I can die in peace, for mine eyes have seen the salvation, I will not say of the Lord, but ofl Campobello." The Admiral. The salvation, such as it was, came slowly; at first! through Admiral William Fitz-William Owen. His life was curious and pathetic, from the time when a boy five years old, an inmate of the ar- tillery barracks, he replied, on being asked his last name, " I don't know, mother can tell you," to his old age, when, dressed in admiral's uniform he paced back and forth on a plank walk, built out into the bay, over the high cliffs of the shore, in memory of the quarter deck of his beloved ship. Conceited and religious, authoritative and generous, humorous and ceremonious, disputatious and frank, a lover of women more than of wine, his fame still lingers in many a name and tradition. His Growth. When very young, a friend of his father's took him I away from the barracks and from his mother, of whom he never again heard. He was boarded and punished in various homes in North Wales,! but as recompense wore a cocked hat and a suit of scarlet made from an old coat of his father,— "the first sensible mark of the earthly pre-exist- ence of some one who claimed to be my father " he had ever received, wrote the Admiral, in his later days. He learned the catechism and col- lects, repeated the Lord's prayer on his knees, and thought of raising thel devil by sayirg it backwards; but he never completed the charm, and for four or five years after was self-punished by his fear that the devil was waiting for him at the church door. By degrees he learned something of his father, the William Owen of Pondicherry fame, who had died while he was a baby. When about four- teen he went to a mathematical academy, where his "progress was as re- markable as it had before been in classics." Here religious instruction consisted in going to church "to talk with our fingers to the girls of a i 18 chool who used the adjoining pew." As a boy, he "had do other distinct 3ea of our Lord Jesus Christ than that he was a good man." His Dreams. His belief in the direct interposition of the Creator his behalf frequently solaced him in these youthful days of loneliness id misdemeanor. The literal and instant fulfillment of two dreams on pecial and unthought-of subjects were convincing proof, to quote his own jords, that " they were sent by God Almighty himself, as a simple way assuring me that as 1 was under his eye he would himself take care me." Man-of-War Garden. So he grew up to be presumptuous, adven- ^rous, resolute, and strong. In 1788 he became a midshipman in a line- -battle ship, in due course of time cruising in the Eay of Fundy. For hree years his man-of-war was stationed at CampobeDo. The crew often Jent ashore in summer, tending a little garden at Havre de Lutre (Harbor the Otter), called Man-of-War Garden, which in turn gave its name the headland. The garden was brilliant with dahlias and marigolds, |hich were presented in overweighted bouquets to the few fsland belles,' Tig, in return for such unexpected courtesies, consented in winter to ince on the ship's deck, regardless of their frozen ear-tips. Two of the jidshipmen were as dauntless in pedestrianism as in love, and for a wager jarted on a perilous walk around icy cliffs which threw them headlong, heir comrades buried them under the gay flowers, and sailed away from le henceforth ill-omened garden. And the little store near by, kept by Se Butler, lost its customers and passed into tradition. The Boy as Midshipman. With Owen's entrance into the naval trvice as boy officer "commenced," he wrote in later years, "a public life ^ich may be said to have had no sensible intermission until the close of ^31, or forty-three years, during which I have served under every naval an of renown, and was honored by the friendship of Nelson. From the Jar 1797 I have held commands and been entrusted with some important Irvice, for the most part in remote parts of the world. My character, if Imay be allowed to draw it myself, contained much of good and bad. ■le latter, perhaps, I contrived to veil sufficiently not to mar my reputa- i 14 i I 'ih tion ; but, by the grace of God, he has not left me without his spirit of self-conviction. ... At forty-four I married [a Miss Evans, of Welsh ex- traction]. I thought myself a tolerably religious man, but knew myself to be as Reuben, unstable as water. At fifty-seven my worldly ambition was barred by corruption in high places. At sixty-one I became the ' Hermit.' " His Settlement at Campobello. "The Quoddy Hermit," — this was the name he chose when, with the rank of admiral, he came back to Campobello to live. He brought with him building material and the frame of a house taken from Rice's Island, and erected his habitation where is now the Owen. In the grove at the northern end of the present hotel he planted two or three English oaks. He placed the sun dial of his vessel in the garden fronting his house, and put a section of his be- loved quarter deck close to the shore, not far from the seedling oaks. There, pacing up and down in uniform, he lived over again the days of his attack upon the Spanish pirate. Proud as he was of the two cannon he then captured, there is no one living to tell who bled or who swore, or whether the Spanish galleon sank or paid ransom. He placed the cannon on the Point, where they bid defiance to American fishing boats. In later years one was taken to Flagstaff Hill whenever a salute was to be given in honor of the Queen's birthday, or a fish fair, for such fairs were famous. Weddings. The population of the Island increased, and the old man married the boys and girls at church or at home, slowly or hastily, as his humor bade him, always claiming the first kiss of the bride. A cer- tain sailor who had wooed a Campobello maiden was determined that this privilege should not be allowed by her, and therefore tried to salute his bride before the service was ended. "You are not married yet. Back! " shouted the Admiral. Frightened, the sailor-groom turned his face and his feet toward the minister-magistrate, who more and more slowly repeated the words of the service, as he approached nearer to the lady, till, with the last word, he snatched the first kiss. His most princely gift as a wed- ding present is said to have been the Island of Pope's Folly, a present 1.5 spirit of ^Velsh ex- :w myself ambition came the t," — this ; back to and the labitation e present m dial of )f his be- ing oaks, e days of ;o cannon swore, or le cannon In later be given airs were d the old hastily, as ;. A cer- [ that this salute his Back ! " face and y repeated ', till, with as a wed- a present conditioned on his performance of the marriage service, which was gladly granted by the bride. He widened the narrow roads along the bay, which David had broken out, and in his heavy, lumbering coach of state went through snow and mud from one tenant to another. The coach is still to be seen, and the tenants' grandchildren bear the Owen surname as the universal Christian cognomen. The Admiral would often stroll down to VVhale-Boat Cove — so called from a large kind of row-boat used in the herring fisheries'— which he persuaded the men to call Welsh Pool. Many a little maiden counted her pennies by the Admiral's kisses, and many a poor fisherman blessed him for allowing the house rent to run on from year to year though the Admiral invariably insisted on the rental from the weirs; he well knew which was the more profitable. Family Life. On other days he stayed at home and amused him- self with his books. At four o'clock the husband and wife dined with the family and the frequent guests. The dinner of four courses was served in silver and gold lined dishes, with wines from Jersey and game from the Provinces. Silver candelabras shone upon the table ; damask and India muslm curtains shaded the many paned windows ; heavy mahogany and rosewood chairs, sofas, and tables furnished the apartments ; great logs on tall andirons burned in monster fireplaces ; sacred maps hung around the evening parlor; and the dining-room carpet was said to have been a gift from the King of Prussia. The long curved mahogany sofa, the carved chairs, and other pieces of furniture are now owned by the Islanders. The library table and arm chair, with sockets in its arms for candles, the Admiral's hat, pistols, and picture are carefully treasured by " The Com- pany " as relics. After the dinner of an hour came tea at seven and a family rubber till nine; then Scripture reading and worship, when the ladies and servants retired, leaving the Admiral and his gentlemen friends, fortified with cigars, whiskey, and water, to relate naval stories and discuss religious themes till two or three o'clock in the morninjr. 'ft 4 10 Theolojjy. Owen's three chosen intimates were designated Aca- demicus, Rusticus, and Theophilus. His library, which they frequently consulted, was a sad medley of dictionaries and the theology of Oxford divines. Methodism and Romanism were alike hateful to the hermit Admiral, who, in quoting from Holy Writ, always rendered " the wiles " as *' the methodisms " of the devil. Every week he read to his neighbors two lectures " from unexceptionable sources, yet so modified as to contain all that was expedient to explain of his peculiar opinions." Often he held church service in what was almost a shanty, omitting from the liturgy whatsoever he might chance to dislike on any special Sunday. Family Prayers. The day began and ended with prayers, which all the household servants attended, the " maids," as the Admiral called them, — "for we are all servants of God," — bringing their work and sew- ing throughout the service, except when the prayer itself was said. ]f some one occasionally was disinclined to such steady improvement of the devotional hour, the Admiral, w-th a benevolent smile, inquired, *' My dear, do you feel lazy to-night ? " Breakfast was served at nine. After that, the Lady Owen, clad in an enormous apron, entered the kitchen and taught the mysteries of salads and jellies. Lady Owen. Lady Owen was queen as he was king; and never did a lady rule more gently over store-room and parlor, over Sunday-School and sewing-school, fitting the dresses of her domestics or of the Island children. She was a handsome woman, with silver hair and pink and white complexion, who, like her daughters, wore long trains and low corsages. Sometimes the mother wrapped herself in a certain gold and black scarf with such a courtly grace that its remembrance has never faded. Great was the jubilee among the domestics when a box arrived from England, with fabulous dresses ready made. Once a year the maids and men of the great house had a ball, the ladies playing for them even all night. Twice in the twelve months oc- curred house-cleaning, when a dress was given each busy worker. The servants were often reminded to take no more than was necessary on their 17 plates ; for economy, though not parsimony, was the rule of the house quests came from the mainland and from every vessel of war. Admiral Owen and h.s house were the fashion for many long years Nowhere on the coast of Maine has there been a more curious ming- ing of rank, with >ts mvestiture of ceremony, and of simple folk-life of loyalty to the Queen and her representatives and of the American spirit of personal independence. ^ Theatricals. All the people were familiar with the great family while the better part of them were bidden to theatrical performances, f'; which the Admiral composed songs. It is doubtful whether he chose as early hours for his amateur shows as did the theatre manager of New Brunswick ; for on the first occasion of a dramatic performance in that frovince March, .8 17S9, the doors were opened at half-past five and the play began at half-past six o'clock. Other merry-makings occurred on the Island, justified, perhaps, by the occasional homage of gifts sent to the mother country; for the Ad- miras diary bears record that "three large, eleven middle, and fourteen hngland J hen, whenever a roof-raising occurred, he knew how to send the children home to look after the chores, that their elders might join in the merriment. ^ •' Smugglers' Cave. The inhabitants themselves were rather enter- prising m business; for rum and lumber were exchangeable quantities with the venturesome Campobello captains, who traded with the southern ports and West Indies, and carried Nova Scotia grindstones to the States. 13older, but the quieter in action, were the smugglers, who, deep amid the woods, near the only fresh-water pond of the Island, alternately came and Tstof S "h /k?"'" T' ^^"^ "^^ ^P^"^ ^" ^^^^-^ '- - -- chest of Spanish doubloons, buried by ancient buccaneers. The Admiral and his family often rode through the woods to watch the men in their hopeless work, and to obtain their share of treasure-trove if ever it were ound. One bright morning every digger had fled, leaving a deep excava- tion in the ground ; but far down on its side, marked cut by the iron rust 18 ■'I III 'I ; ' ■ill ; ! which had clung to the earth, the outlines of a chest were visible. A cart track and the ruins of four or five huts are all that now remain of the site of this mysterious activity. With the departure of these smugglers dis- appeared the steady excitement of years, the perpetual topic of conversa- tion. Thereafter the people could only question each other about the strange wreck whose rotting timbers were old a century before. Its last remnants have now been carved into love tokens. Saddest were the days when the Admiral strode up and down his imaginary quarter-deck, his empire a fishing settlement, where boys' wages had once been three cents a day. Eastport still owned the islands around it. The people brought in their fish, and sold it for groceries and other articles at stores where it was credited to them. The little vessels cross- ing the bay made it gay for the Admiral's eyes. But his spirit sank, as he fancied that some boat might be drifting around an inlet, with its owner frozen to the mast amid the supplies he was bringing to his family, who were waiting in vain for the father to return ; or as he thought of the burden of this ever-increasing debit and credit system, or of the perils of the smugglers. Later, when the duties were taken of=f by the United States, smug- gling disappeared, and Campobello business went down. Could it ever have been said to exist? A few persons possessed enough ready money to build the picturesque weirs which fringe the Island with their stakes, driven three or four feet apart, and ribboned together with small round poles. The dried foliage and the dripping seaweed clinging to them give a ghastly beauty to this living mausoleum of the herring. The Bank. Remittances did not always come promptly from Eng- land, and money was needed in the Island ; so the Admiral set up his own bank, and issued one-dollar certificates, surmounted by the crest and his motto, " Flecti non Frangi." But somehow the time never came when he was called upon - to pay one dollar on demand to the bearer at Welsh Pool," and the certificates remain, to be utilized, perhaps, under a new epoch of good will and foolish trust. •.i^toi 19 Titles. The Island must have had some law and order before the advent of the Admiral, for the town records for the parish of Campobello date from April 15, 1824, James M. Parker, town clerk. At the general session of the peace, holden at St. Andrews, the shire town of Charlotte County, New Brunswick, thirty-two officers were chosen for the small population of Campobello. As in the old Germai. principalities, every Welsh Pooler must have craved a title. There were commissioners and surveyors of highways, overseers of poor and of fisheries, assessors, trustees of schools, inspectors of fish for home consumption and for exports, for smoked herring and boxes. There were cullers of staves, fence-viewers and hog-reeves, and surveyors of lumber and cordwood, lest that which should properly be used for purposes of building or export be consumed on andirons or in kitchen stoves. Paupers. In those days there was no poorhouse ; though town pau- pers existed, for one, Peter Lion by name, was boarded about for one hundred dollars, and furnished wi^h suitable food, raiment, lodging, and medical aid. No one kept him long at a time, whether it was because others wanted the price paid for his support, or because he was an un- welcome inmate, is unknown. Prices depend on supply; therefore, it happened that the next pauper was boarded for fifty dollars. Again, a lower price for board brought about a lower tax rate for the householders ; and, in course of time, another pauper was set up at public auction, and the lowest bidder was entrusted with his care and maintenance. By 1829 the exports from the Island justified the creation of harbor masters and port wardens,— more titles to be coveted. Ferryman. A ferry was established from Campobello to Indian Island and Eastport. The ferryman was " recognized in the sum of two pounds, and was conditioned to keep a good and sufficient boat, with sails and oars, to carry all persons who required between the appointed places, to ask, demand, and receive for each person so ferried one shillincr and three pence, and no more." If any other than the appointee should have the hardihood to make a little money by transporting a weary travel- ler, such persons should be fined ten shillings, half of it to go to the 20 informer and half to the ferryman, unless he had previously arranged with the licensee that he would afford him due and righteous satisfaction for each person so carried. As the population grew, the swine began to abound, and soon it was decreed that '* neither swine nor boar-pig should go at large, unless suffi- ciently ringed and yoked, sucking pigs excepted, on pain of five shillings for each beast." Sheep. Then the sheep began to jump fences four feet high,- and their descendants have increased in agility. They ate the young cabbages, and standing at ease, defiantly and. lazily nipped off the dahlia buds. The town bestirred itself. Angry housewives, roused from their sleep by waking dreams of depredations committed, drove the sheep away with stock and stone. The following n'ght the fisher-husbands, back from iheir business, sallied forth in vain; they cou^' not run as fast as the women. And week after week the sheep to ^1 they wanted. It be- came necessary finally to establish the sublime order of hog-reeves, who were privileged to seize any swine or sheep going at large which were not marked with the proper and duly entered mark of the owner, and to prose- cute as the law directs ; all cattle being ordered to be at home by eight o'clock in the evening. But how could sheep be marked when their fleece forbade their being branded? As notable housekeepers vie with each other in receipts, so did each Islander try to invent striking deformities for his sheep ; only the sucking lambs retained their birthrights till their later days. Because Mulholland made two slits in the right ear and took off its top, Parker cut off a piece from the left ear of his sheep, and Bowers made a crop under the left ear of his animal, close to its head. Yet the sheep ran loose until the people were directed to -riise twelve pounds for building two cattle pounds, and William Fitz-Wiiiia,. Oen, the Admiral, was appointed to erect the same. The poor rates had again lessened,— woe to the pauper boarder,— for the Admiral wanted money for many another improvement on which his mind was bent. The General Sessions of the peace dared not neglect any suggestir n .kLch was made by a man who entertained all the ^'i^ ' ii fit distinguished guests who came to Fassamaquoddy Bay; for his fame had spread far and wide as host, theologian, and magnate. CJee^e. If it were difficult lo restrain sheep and swine, still more difficult was It to prevent the trespasses of geese ; though many a bird was clipped in its infancy, and in winter killed and put down amid layers of snow, and sent to the Admiral as a peace offering or as tribute Still the public troubles increased ; until it was ordered that horses and cattle should be impounded. Then peace by midnight and safety by day rested over the Island. For it was even resolved "that all dogs of SIX monihs old and upward should be considered of sufficient age to pay the tax " ; but in what manner they were compelled to offer their own ex- cuse for being remains unsolved. Perhaps no legal quibble was ever raised concerning the wording of the statute. Bridges. Admiral Owen was not only the magistrate for animals but a builder of bridges, letting out the work "at the rate of $i 12 y. per man per day, the day being ten hours of good and conscientious work for man or yoke of oxen." Nomination Day. Very graphic is an account of " Nomination Day, given by Mr. William H. Kirby, in the " Eastport Sentinel " of June 10, 1885. On the results of this day depended honors and duties ''Four members are to be chosen. Among those put in nomination is the Honorable Captain William Fitz-William Owen, of Campobello, rep- resentative of the Island and champion of the fisheries. A poll being demanded, the real contest is postponed to a later day starting at St. Andrews, and proceeding from parish to parish, gathering the votes of each neighborhood, until at the end of a fortnight Indian Island is reached, and the voters of West Isles and Campobello have their turn. This affords a good opportunity for curious Eastporters to iook in upon the time-honored election processes of the British Empire. The surroundings of the hustings are rude and characteristic. On a platform made by spreading a plank on the top of fish hogsheads the sheriff of the county has established himself, with his clerks, the candi- dates and their representatives ranged along. As this is Captain Owen's <^ O.) uwn nrecinct, special efforts have been made to bring up his vote, which has somewhat lagged in other parishes; some of the free and independent electors, arriving by the numerous boats which line the beach, wear badges with the motto, "Owen Reads and Bridges," and there are signs that open houses are kept somewhere in the neighborhood. V^ith staunch friends, the Captain has bittei opponents. For the purpose of increasing the income from his Island, he had not long before established a system of pasturage which included a small annual sum for geese, and it is said that at St. Andrews the other day a goose was borne aloft in derision o^^ his candidacy. Each candidate having urged his claims in an address, the polls are opened and the voting begins. As the elector comes forward, he is asked for whom he votes. The reply is, " Captain Owen," — " Thank you, sir," from Captain Owen ; and the same from Mr. Hill, Mr. Brown, Mr. Boyd, Mr. Clinch, or some other candidate, in response to a vote for either. And the clerk enters the several votes upon his record. Each elector can vote for four candidates. Sometimes he names but one ; this is a plumper, and elicits cheers. Sometimes a man is asked on what he votes, and re- plies " Freehold by heir," or something else. I believe that under certain conditions a man could vote in half a dozen counties if he had property. Closing here, the sheriff, candidates, and special friends adjourn to St. Andrews for the final proceedings. Numbers of votes have been with- held for effective use in the final struggle. Some of the candidates are al- ready so far ahead that their success is assured, and others are hopelessly behind, while for one or more places two or three candidates are separated by only narrow margins, and this affords opportunity for trades and com- binations which add zest to the last spasmodic efforts. Captain Owen was not successful this time, though he was chosen at a later campaign, and was afterwards promoted to a seat in Her Majesty's Council for the Province." Wilson's Claim. The Admiral's life was embittered by the obstin- acy with which some of the people refused to pay him allegiance. They were the descendant's of one WHson, who, in David's time, had squatted ±] at Head Harbor, and had built across the end of the Island a bush fence which was considered to give the sanctity of a written deed to Wilson's claim. David Owen contested the validity of custom, and a lawsuit fol- lowed, which was decided in favor of the squatter. This decision was very embarrassing to David, who feared that through its effect he might lose possession of another neck of land. So he hastened home from the court, outstripping his rival, and told a squatter who lived on a second pomt of the Island that, as the verdict in the Head Harbor case had been rendered in the Owen favor, he had better sell out at once, or else the law would make him do so. This reasoning, though illogical, was convincing • and the terrified fisherman is reported to have made a lawful deed of his possessions to David for a round of pork, an old gun, and two or three other articles. V\'hen Wilson arrived, belated by the wind and tide, the fraud or joke was discovered ; but, as no remedy was found for it, the Ovvens ruled all the Islanu, except the peninsula which David and his co- heirs and successors always called '' Wilson's Encroachment." There Wil- son and his followers established a thriving settlement, whose prosperity was a constant grievance to the Admiral when he came to live at Campobello Neither flattery or bribery could induce them to become his vassals Years after, in the American Civil War, when Captain Robinson, the Admiral's son-in-law, demanded that rents should be paid in English money, Campobello was impoverished, while the people at Wilson's Beach had no rent to pay. The Cannon. The cannon still remained as sentinels, till some one on board the brig Sam French, which was going to California for gold stole them and carried them round Cape Horn. When the brig rea-hed San Francisco it fired a salute ; but as the Admiral had forewarned the Southern authorities of the capture of his guns, the timely or untimely salute betrayed their presence, and the guns were seized and returned to Campobello. After the removal of the Owen family to England, one of the guns, which had been bought from them by Mr. Best, an Island resi- dent at that time, was given by him to General Cleaves, who placed it on one of the islands in Portland harbor, where two or three years ago it i!il!|i 24 ii ;ii h : lill I Jlii i i!l!i! i|!li !| ■I I !ii 1 1 I II P Hi exploded and was shattered to pieces. The other gun was bought by George Batson, Esq., and was placed in his store on the Island, where it became an object of wonder to all newcomers. Schools. The official dignities of the Admiral increased with his longer residence on Campobello. He was overseer of the poor, post- master, and school trustee. For a long period there were only private schools; but about fifty years ago the first public or parish school was built near the Taylor House, now Hotel Byron. Four other schools were established at various points; one at Curry's Cove, or Sarawac, — so named by Admiral Owen after a fishing hamlet in Wales,— where Lady Owen and her daughters maintained a vigorous Sunday School. The Mail. The mails, which were brought by vessel from St. An- drews, came twice a week in summer, and once a week in winter ; though it was no uncommon event to Wjait three weeks for a letter, if the weather were stormy. The people from Indian and Deer Islands came to the Admiral's to get their letters ; but woe to any one who chanced to arrrive too early in the morning, before the noble postmaster had finished his breakfast. Survey Book. A curious manuscript book with parchment covers is still extant, labelled on one side, " Register Book, Deeds, Leases, etc., for the estate of Campobello. The 'property of Captain W. F. W. Owen, R. N. June, 1835." On the other side is written, " Survey Book." It contains several early survey maps of the National Boundary, of the Narrows at Campobello, and of Casco Bay. There are also leases of smoke-houses and weirs. The latter then rented for fifty or sixty dollars a year, 'and a system of ground-rent prevailed. The Admiral could not have anticipated much income from his possessions ; for he speaks of the people as '• fishermen, about four hundred in number, very few of whom are, I fear, able to please turn over to pay rent otherwise than in produce, — that is, dried fish and potatoes." Tyn-Y-Coed. In this same record book he writes that the farm called Tyn-Y-Coed, or The House in the Woods, is so named from " the estate in Montgomery shire, late of Owen Owen, Esq., and Sir Arthur 26 Davies Owen, his son, and William Owen, the youngest son, let to John Gregg, for ten years on his life, at the rate of (6^8.) six shillings and six- pence." On the oldest map owned by the present Company, drawn by one John Wilkinson, in 1830, the Tyn-Y-Coed and also Lake Glen Severn are designated. The land opposite the Tyn-Y-Coed, where now is the Wells Cottage, used to be called Mount Pleasant. The Admiral's domains extended beyond Campobello to Head Har- bor, Pope's Folly, Sandy, Spruce, and Casco Islands. Since his reign some of these islands have been sold, while Casco Island was given to Chief Justice Allen, of New Brunswick, by Lady Owen. When the little fishing vessels and ferry boats, which ply between these islands, and the big schooners and large steamers, are now counted on any one summer day, it is difficult to realize how comparatively uncrossed were these waters in the Admiral's early years of Island life. First Steamboat. The first steamboat in New Brunswick was not launched till April, 1816, and then it went only as far as Portland; and a second steamer was not added till 1825. The first New Brunswick news- paper fortunately was issued in 1783, so that it must have been able to announce this new maritime project with due sensational headlines. First Telegram. Not until April 30, 185 1, was the first telegram sent from St. John to John Wilson. Curiously reads his answer from St. Andrews : '« Being the first subscriber to the Electric Telegraph Company, I am honored by the first communication from your city announcing the great and wonderful work God has made known to man by giving us the control of the lightnings." Tlie Churcli. Neither steamboat, newspaper, nor telegram could make Campobello aught but a narrow confine for the social and political ambition of the Admiral. An exile because of poverty that compelled him to accept the royal gift, he felt that he must devote himself to con- troversial discussion and the erection of a new Episcopal church. Before this day the people had been Baptists ; personal loyalty anglicized the religion of all those around Welch Pool. 1 llilil; illi; II ;! Hii.! il'l I Mliil iiiii;i 26 Wilson's Baptists. The people at Wilson's, however, never aban- doned their Baptist tenets, which they brought with them from the neigh- boring islands as they settled around Head Harbor. Those along the North Road rowed over to the larger settlement for baptisms and Sunday services, which were first held in the schoolKouse, for the church itself was not built until some thirty-eight years ago. North Road Baptists. At last the North Road residents had their own church, to which they were devotedly attached. The land for it cost forty dollars in gold paid down to Captain Robinson, as the proceeds of the efforts of sewing-circles and ladies' teas. The great Saxby gale of some twenty-five years ago blew it down. Two years after it was rebuilt for $447, and finally finished ten years ago. The devoted Episcopalians at Welch Pool have made no greater sacrifices for their church than did the little band of zealous North Road Baptists. Though their regular ministers have been few, their irregular preaching and their prayer meet- ings have been constant. Still it was but natural that, as the boys of the Baptist islands mar- ried the girls of St. George and other New Brunswick towns where the Church of England was the prescribed form of faith, Episcopalianism spread itself, not only among the islands in Passamaquoddy Bay, but at Campobello. Church Corporation. Soon after Admiral Owen had become resi- dent magistrate and cr.mmissioner for solemnizing marriages, to which, the witnesses as well as the bridal couple signed their names, he signalized his authority by giving for three years certain wild lands as commons for cattle to those who should belong to the " Church Episcopal Congrega- tion," when formed. The* lease was duly signed by himself and by John Farmer, in trust for the people. Stich privilege, even if actuated by worldly motives, proved of sacred benefit, for measures were immediately taken to form a Church Association and corporation, with the proviso that such persons as had decided objections to profess themselves members of the church could by no means become a part of such corporation. The Admiral's cattle ranged free in the commons, but on all other licensed and 27 marked cattle were paid the fees which accrued to the benefit of religion and large must have been the income thereof. ' The regularly ordained preacher was sent from St. Andrews but four or five times a year. On all other appointed days the Admiral read his beloved service, even till 1842, when a resident missionary came to live on the Island. Thirteen years after, in 1855, the church and burial ground were consecrated by the bishop of the diocese. Most solemn and tender must have been those first rites, when confirmation was adminis- tered to three persons, and holy communion to forty others, :.i that little buildmg surrounded by the dark balsamic firs, looking with its cross over the waters toward the New England steeples. English friends sent money to the church, and the Owen family gave memorial offerings. The reredos, with its silver cross, was a memorial to Captam John Robinson, the grandson of the Admiral. The block of stone from which the font was carved was taken from the Church of the Knights Templar at Malta, and carried to Florence by the Admiral's son- in-law to be wrought into graceful form, and then was borne across the ocean to this tiny, much loved church. The chancel carpet, worked on canvas in cross-stitch ; the altar vestments ; the stoles ; the chalice veils green, white, crimson, purple, each bearing the symbol of the cross in varied stitch and design,— were all wrought by the delicate Idr hands of the Admiral's daughter, and her children, and their friends, as an offering of self-consecration and of devotion to the building up of a higher life among the Islanders. These, too, brought their gifts, and replaced with chandeliers the wax candles which had been set in holes in the book-rests • and, when the sea called away the men, an old lad-, rich in humility and good works, rang the bell for th^ weekly services. Bishop Medley. Interwoven with the personal life of this church was the affection with which it was regarded by " The Most Eminent John Medley, D. D., Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, N. B., and Metropolitan of Canada, who died in 1892, at the advanced age of eighty-eight years. It was m this church that he married his second wife, who was a friend of Lady Owen's. He seldom failed to visit the Island every year or two, and 28 iiiai !i ■]]' llilli:! , , pi'' I III I lip hi mi 'IV m m was the trusted confidant of each man, woman, or child, who knew him, for his simplicity of life i. ;corded with Island habits, and the people com- prehended his singleness of purpose, even if they did not always go to church. The names of Mr. and Mrs. Medley often occur in the parish records as visitors of the Parish School, with which they seem to have been regularly pleased. ^ The Deanery. The Parish of Campobello was and is under the jurisdiction of the Deanery of St. Andrews. At its meetings, which were for purposes of social visitation as well as for church discipline, the Ad- miral talked to the Deans if not with them. He knew the law better than many of them, and ,had an eye to business. Earnest and simple are the records of these gatherings, as of the one at St. Andrews in 1852, when some wished that " all articles necessary to ornament and fitting of places of worship should be fidmitted free of duty " ; yet the movement failed of approval lest action on behalf of it might " appear like a move of the church for exclusive privilege." Church Lands. A later resolve of the Deanery reads as follows : «' Resolved, that whereas Romanists, Presbyterians, Methodists, and other Sectarists, are busy in successfully seeking from the Government tracts of land, to be surveyed for their respective denominations, to be settled by their co-religionists, that the Rural Dean communicate with the Lord Bishop, and ask his advice whether it may not be wise to seek like tracts of land for the settlement of church families as soon as possible, lest there be left no lands for the settlement of churchmen." Special Prayer. When the Deanery met at Campobello it was resolved that, "Owing to the special calling of the Inhabitants of the County, that the Bishop draw up a form of Prayer for public service for those so exposed, to be used at the discretion of the clergy." In 1863, the Deans approved of employing a " Book hawker in the dissemination of Church books and tracts in the Province." "The pre- vailing sins of our time, especially those by which we are more immediately surrounded," was as favorite a topic of discussion In those days of Deanery meetings as it is now. 29 The Admiral's Stock Company. Among other documents be- longmg to the period of the Admiral's active life on the Island is a pam- phlet printed m London in 1839, entitled "The Campobello Mill and Manufacturing Company in x\ew Brunswick, British North America " This Company was incorporated June i, 1839, with a capital of $400,000 in two thousand shares at $200 each ; interest at 6 per cent was guaranteed on all sums actually paid on the shares, secured on the fixed property on the Islands and responsibility of the Company. The Pres- ident was William Fitz-William Owen. There were also six Directors who were all in official life, with the exception of "John Burnett, Esq., of Campobello, Merchant." The property, says the pamphlet, "is valued at *ioo,ooo, and offers available means of employing five times the capital " The returns m four or five years would probably be twenty-live per cent on the capital. The situation of the Island "is extremely commodious for commerce with Great Britain, the West Indies, and the United States " An early prospectus of the Company's extols the situation, because, by order of His Majesty in Council, Campobello was constituted a free Ware- housing Port. Jacob Allan, Deputy Surveyor and Commissioner of Crown Lands, "certifies that there is now standing a sufficient quantity of spruce and pme of the finest growth for saw logs to keep four double saw-mills going for the space of forty years; that is, perpetually. . The fisheries on the coasts of the Island were let this year by the Company for near ;^4oo, and fish were taken on the coasts to the amount of £5 000 " It IS also "stated that there is a large quantity of ore about Liberty Point. ' I he Company was incorporated "for the purposes of erectin