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Las cartas, planchas, tablaaux, etc., pauvant Atra filmte A das taux da rAduction diff Arants. Lorsqua la documant ast trap grand pour Atro raproduit an un saul clichA, 11 ast filmA A partir da I'angla supAriaur gaucha, da gaucha A droita. at da haut 9n has, an pranant la nombra d'imagas nAcassaira. Las diagrammas suivants illustrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 *, ■ i'\ •^- :C ^- OUTLINE MAP OF THE ARCTIC REGIONS SHEWING TRACKS OF THE LA {''xiihiunUon . __ Jivfi/ m'Beratd' ouui floter, .. . hv/aoseoL TnidttifCaminajuierJ\dUt) IruirJs'o/' IhehiiJ-i^eoti and Jiat' ■ ■.\- Proposed ThcuA- or So/:- .-.■.-.■ Sfup 7'nwA' (//'Su-Jmnes Ross . Walktnff J'rcuJi of D^ TRACKS OF THE LATE EXPEDITIONS IN SCARCH OF SIF. JOHN FRANKLIN OUTLINE MAP OF THE ARCTIC R ETiiliutatioii . . TivuhofBei-aioL and- /Tvmr. . Proposed/ Tradi'of€ominniiderJ\iUer>^. . Jrnek.' o/ ' fUehtuy^'foa- and Jtar-. : hvposed. Jhouek' of Rae^. . Shifi Track/ oT Sir James Ross . WaJJung Tra>ck, oT D'; ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS A LECTURE Deuvbrkd at the London Institution, FEBRtTARy 6, 1850. BY CHARLES RICHARD WELD, ASaiSTANT SBCRETAKT TO THE ROTAL SOOIBTf. ^Wim a itttfp. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1850. r CONTENTS. ^ Heroism of the Voyagers in the Arctic Seas. — Discoveries of the Nortliuien. — Expeditions of the Portxiguese — -of the Cabots. — England undertakes Northern Voyages of Discovery. — Expe- ditions of Frobisher, Gilbert, Davis, «bc. — The Royal Society encourage Arctic Voyages. — Parliament offer a reward for the Discovery of the North- West Passage. — Change in the glacial condition of the Arctic Seas. — Various unsuccessful attempts made to discover the North-West Passage. — Parry's Expe- ditions. — Sir John Barrow's proposition to send out a North- West Expedition. — Lord Haddington's Letter on the subject. — Sir John Franklin's Appointment. — The early Life of Frank- lin. — Equipment of the Erebus and Terror. — Sir John Franklin's official Instructions. — Letters from Captain Fitzjames and Mr. Griffith respecting the Expedition. — Expeditions of Re- lief. — Probable Positions of the missing Ships. — Further search- ing Measures. — Employment of Balloons. — Proposed Subscrip- tion in the United States for an Expedition. ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS; A LECTURE. I There is probably no portion of the history of tliis country which so forcibly illustrates the calm and enduring heroism of our countrymen, as that relating to the voyages of discovery in the Arctic seas. It is impossible to contemplate the terrible cata- logue of suffering which the history of those voyages presents, without feeling? of the highest admiration. The actors in those scenes were worthy descend- ants of those daring Northmen who went forth in frail barks over their stormy waters, and discovered the shores of Arctic America, five centuries before Columbus sailed across the Atlantic to that mighty continent. But the spirit of northern maritime enterprise arose in other lands before it became active in our own. We have indisputable evidence that Greenland was discovered by Erick Rauda, or the Red, a bold Scandinavian, in 1001. The original records of this discovery state that he called the land Greenland to induce the Norwegians to settle there, which they did ; and it is from the voyages of the Venetians, Nicolo and Antonio Zeno, in 1380, that we first learn B 2 4 ARCTIC EXPEDITVONS. ^ tidings of the colony. They found it thriving, and mention particularly a monastery, the church and apartments of which were heated by warm water ejected from boiling springs in the vicinity. The voyages of the Zenos throw considerable light on the state of Greenland and Labrador at that early period. They were succeeded by several bold expe- ditions, sent out by the Portuguese, which led to the discovery of Newfoundland, called by them Terra de Bacalhaos, or Land of Codfish, and other con- tiguous parts of the North American Continent. Among these enterprising navigators, Caspar Cor- tereal deserves particular mention ; for after a voyage to the north, during which he discovered the Gulf of St. Lawrence, he became so fully convinced of the existence of a north-west passage to India, that he left Lisbon, in 1501, for the purpose of discovering it, but perished a victim to his daring, his ships having foundered in the northern seas. Although this expedition terminated so fatally, the idea of a north-western passage to India and Cathay quickly gained ground. To attain these distant lands of " pearls and gold " by a less toilsome and tedious voyage than that round the Cape of Storms, was a favourite day-dream in the sixteenth century; and the Spaniards, whose flag had been carriec across the Atlantic, made several attempts to reach the Indies by the north. Estevan Gomez, who had been with Magalhaens, sailed from Corunna, in 1524, with that object; but he did not get beyond Labrador. Unwilling that his voyage should be entirely fruitless, he carried off I ■A ) ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 'iving, and hurch and arm water • arable light , that early bold expe- 1 led to the hem Terra other con- Continent, aspar Cor- ;r a voyage Lhe Gulf of iced of the lia, that he discovering , his ships fatally, the md Cathay stant lands ind tedious rms, was a itury; and rieu across reach the agalhaens, )bject; but ng that his carried off i *, « I I I I 1' V some natives, whom he regarded in the light of slaves. This led to a curious mistake, illustrative of the confidence that was entertained in the existence of a north-west passage. On his return to Spain, being asked what success he had met with, he answered, " esclavos," slaves, which the inquirer mis- took for " clavoft" cloves, and posted off to the court with the news that Gomez had made what Purchas calls " a spicy discovery." In the latter part of the fifteenth century, England first evinced an ardour for northern voyages. Henry VII. had encouraged John Cabot, a Venetian, to make discoveries, by granting him a patent to search for unknown lands ; but so firmly was he impressed with the belief that by sailing north-west he would, to use his own words, " come by a shorter track into India ; " that, instead of seeking for lands in southern seas, he caused, as he says, " the king to be advertised of his device; who immediately commanded two caravels to be furnished with all things appertaining to the voyage." Cabot reached the fifty-sixth de- gree of north latitude ; but, finding no opening in the coast, he despaired of a passage, and returned. This failure, however discouraging, did not extin- guish the desire for discovery. In 1527 Robert Thorne sailed from the Thames with "two faire ships ard divers cunning men to seek strange northern regions." All that Hakluyt, to whom we are in- debted for the most complete account of early voyages, could ascertain respecting these ships and the cunning men was, that the name of one of them was Dominus Vobiscum ; and that a canon of St. ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. I Paul's, of London, a great mathematician, "did much advance the action by going himself/' This expedition was followed by one undertaken by a certain Master Hore, of London, whom Hakluyt calls a " man of goodly stature and of great courage, and given to the study of cosmographie." Here's scheme was to penetrate to the unknown regions of ♦he northern seas. He was so much liked that he en- Hsted under his flag 120 persons, of whom 30 were lawyers and country gentlemen. They embarked in the ships Trinitie and Minion from Gravesend, in April, 1536, after solemnly receiving the sacrament. The fate of this expedition was very disastrous. The ships did not get beyond Newfoundland, when the party suffered such fearful distress for want of pro- visions that one man killed his comrade and greedily devoured a portion of his flesh. One of the ships was afterwards lost between the northern parts of Newfoundland and Greenland. The next expedition was that sent out at the suggestion of Sebastian Cabot, who had been ap- pointed Grand Pilot of England, for the purpose of discovering a north-east passage to Cathay and India. The expedition consisted of three ships, the crews of which, including eleven merchants, num- bered 113 persons. The command was given to Sir Hugh Willoughby, " both," as Hakluyt tells us, " by reason of his goodly personage, as also for his singular skill in the services of warre." The expedition sailed from the Thames on the 20th May, 1553. On passing Greenwich, where the I -4' t I I I \ •own ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. ti did much undertaken >m Hakluyt at courage, ." Hore's regions of that he en- n 30 were nbarked in ivesend, in sacrament, 'ous. The when the mt of pro- id greedily the ships 1 parts of ut at the been ap- urpose of thay and ships, the its, num- lloughby, is goodly J services on the 'here the M 1 I i 1 -M Court then resided, tlie gallant adventurers received the salutations and good wishes of the council and courtiers. Everything boded success; but the his- tory of the voyage is pregnant with terrible events. Sir Hugh Willoughby with his brave associates, as also the crew of the second ship, were frozen to death on the coast of Lapland. The crew of the third ship, which had parted company by putting into V/ardhuys, in Norway, escaped the fate of their companions; and in the following year discovered the port of Archangel, and opened the first intercourse with Russia. Thus, this expedition, although most un- fortunate, was of considerable service to maritime geography and commerce. The three expeditions of Frobisher are remarkable, as they had the two-fold object of discovering the north-west passage and prosecuting the search for gold, which was supposed to exist in Labrador. They were sent out at the expense of the " Com- pany Adventurers of Cathay," among whom Queen Elizabeth appears as a subscriber to the amount of 4000/. The first expedition sailed in 1576, and entered the strait which now bears Frobisher's name. He held some communication with the natives, and carried one of them to England, who died soon after his arrival in this country. He is described as " the strange man of Cathay, whose like was never seen, read, nor heard of before." Among the payments in the accounts relating to this voyage are the items of 51. to Mr. Crowe, the surgeon, for " opening of the Indian man and balm- 8 ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. i ; I } 1 ying him, and 6/. to Cornelius Kettall, paynter, Dutchman, for making a great picture of the whole body of the strange man in his garments, which sayd picture was given to the Queen's Majesty." This and the two succeeding expeditions, caused Frobisher to be specially commended for the great hope he brought of the passage to Cathay. My limited time will not permit me even to sketch the succeeding voyages which were undertaken by various parties, at very brief intervals, for the purpose of discovering a passage to the Indian seas. Those of Sir Humphry Gilbert, of Davis, BafRn, and Hudson, which are among the most important, are well known, and although failing in their object, they greatly extended our geographical knowledge of Arctic America ; and Davis, by the discovery of the strait that bears his name, opened the way to the whale fishery which is still carried on in that sea. In the latter end of the eighteenth century, the Royal Society turned their attention to Arctic dis- coveries. At their suggestion two ships were sent out for the purpose of ascertaining how far navi- gation could be carried on in the direction of the North Pole. The expedition left the Nore on the 10th Jime, 1773, passed along the western coast of Spitzbergen, and attained a latitude of 80° 48' where the ships were beset by ice and obliged to return home. The land journeys of Hearne and Mackenzie, which led to the discovery of the Coppermine and Mac- kenzie rivers, tended to keep alive the interest in the '4. % 4 f.' ■OtM ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 9 paynter, he whole hich sayd s, caused the great to sketch taken by ; purpose I, Baffin, nportant, ir object, lowledge overy of way to in that iry, the it\c dis- 3re sent ' navi- of the June, )ergen, ships , which Mac- in the i subject of the north-west passaj^e. Tliose enterprising exph)rprs ascertained thatan oj)en seaextended beyond the icy arcliipelago at the mouth of those rivers, and they were of opinion that a navigable ocean bounded the entire coast of North America. Subsequent ex- plorations by Franklin, Richardson, Simpson, and othe-s, show this opinion to have been well founded. An act of parliament was now passed, granting a reward of 20,000/. for the discovery of any northern passage by sea between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and 5000/. to any ship attaining the meridian of 110** W. long., and in 1776, an expedition was fitted out under the command of Captain Cook, for the purpose of essaying the passage on the side of Behring Straits. England had the misfortune to lose Cook on this expedition ; the command de- volved on Captain Clerke, who died in sight of the entrance to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul in Kamtschatka, and after an absence of three years, during which the ships did not reach a higher latitude than 70° 45', they returned to England, the survivors being, as they said, " heartily sick of a navigation full of dangers." This failure appears to have had the effect of deterring Government from making any fuither attempts at that period for the sc ' tion of the great nautical problem, for, with the exception ot some unimportant expeditions which emanated from the Hudson's Bay Company, nothing was done by the Admiralty for nearly hiflf a century. And it is doubtful whether the subject would have engaged attention at the expiialion of this period, 13 3 10 AKCTIC EXPEDITIONS. if 1 had it not been for a remarkable change in tlie state of the Arctic seas. In the year 1817 intelligence reached England that the vast fields of ice which had barred up the eastern coast of Greenland for four centuries had given way, and that stupendous icebergs had been fallen in with by ships, in different parts of the Atlantic, even as far down as the fortieth parallel of latitude. Among the communications on this subject, per- haps the most valuable was that addressed by Captain, now the Rev. Dr. iScoresby, to Sir Joseph Banks, in October, 1817, in which, alluding to the disappearance of ice in high latitudes, he suggests the propriety of renewing the search for the north- west passage. As soon as these facts became generally known, a feeling prevailed that, as the Arctic seas were now, in all probability, much more open than formerly, it was desirable to take advantage of this circumstance, and again send discovery ships into those regions. The re-organization of the Arctic expeditions was also in a great measure due to the late Sir John Barrow, who had been appointed secretary to the Admiralty. That gentleman had an ardent desire to see the problem of the north-west passage solved by the skill and enterprise of British seamen; and during the course of a long and useful official life, he gave the subject his earnest attention and consideration. He was fortunate in finding an able and willing coadjutor in his friend Sir Joseph Banks, to whom he communicated his thoughts on the subject. 1 ■i ARCTIC KXPKDITIONS. 11 the state land that up the lad given en fallen Atlantic, atitude. ject, per- jssed by r Joseph ig to the suggests le north- known, a ti now, in ly, it was ince, and ions was jir John y to the see the by the iring the gave the n. willing o whom Sir Jospj)h was then at the head of the Royal so- ciety, and Sir Jolin Barrow says that, before sub- niitting any proposal for Arctic exploration to the Admiralty, by whom he knew it would be referred to the council of the Rova.1 Society, he deemed it ri<:ht to take the President's opinion as to the effect of the clianges reported to have occured in the northern re- gions, and the desirableness of sending out an expe- dition for the discovery of a north-west passa;je. Sir Joseph, we are told, entirely approved the re- newal of attempts to accompHsh a grand object which, for three centuries, had at different times occupied the attention of our sovereigns, philosophers, men of science, and merchants, and he promised to give the matter his most cordial support. Two expeditions were equipped, one to proceed by the North Pole to Behring Straits, the other to at- tempt a passage by some of the openings leading out of Baffin's Bay, none of which, it will be remem- bered, had ever been explored. To each expedition were assigned two ships. Those destined for the Polar passage were placed under the command of Captain Buchan, and Lieutenant, now Sir John Franklin ; and those for the north-west were commanded by Captain John Ross and the present Sir Edward Pany. The ships sailed in the early part of 1818. The Polar Expedition attained a latitude of 80° 34' IS'., when Captain Buchan's ship becoming disabled, by severe pressure from the ice, further progress on her part became impossible. But, although dangers of the most appaUing natui e 12 ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. were around, Lieutenant Franklin, whose ship was less damaged than that of Captain Buchan, earnestly requested that he might be allowed to proceed alone in the execution of the service. The nature of the instructions prevented this, and the expedition re- turned. The other, under the command of Capt. John Ross, though favoured by remarkably open seas, was as un- productive of important results; for, when the ships were sailing up Lancaster Sound, at the latter end of August, with clear water around, and when "every person on board, on the instant, as it were, made up his mind that this must be the north-west passage," by some unfortunate misapprehension, arising, pro- bably, from meteorological causes, it was supposed that a lofty ridge of mountains stretched across the inlet, and after exploring the channel to the distance of thirty miles, the ships steered out of it and re- turned to England. The results of this expedition were so inconclusive, that another was despatched in 1819, under the com- mand of Lieutenant Parry, who was especially charged to examine Lancaster Sound. The expedition consisted of the Uecla, of 375 tons, and the Griper, a gun brig. The sliijjs sailed from the Thames on the 11th of May, and on the 30th of July had succeeded in reaching the opening of Lancaster Sound, just one month earlier than in the preceding year. A strong easterly breeze carried the ships rapidly to the westward, and the mountains which were sup- posed to bur the inlet were found to have only an *■ .w ARt;TIC EXPEDITIONS. IS ihip was larnestly ed alone e of the ition re- in Ross, s as un- he ships T end of " every nade up assage," iig, pro- upposed ross the distance and re- clusive, le com- ecially 1 5 tons, 1th of led in Ist one lapidly sup- an ly imaginary existence. A fine expanse of open sea lay before them. Lieutenant Parry observes : — " It is more easy to imagine than to describe the almost breathless anxiety whicii was now visible in every countenance while, as the breeze increased to a fresh gale, we ran quickly up the sound. The mast-heads were crowded by the officers and men during the whole afternoon ; and an unconcerned observer, if any could have been unconcerned on such an occasion, would have been amused by the eagerness with which the various reports from the crcvv's nest were received, all, however, hitherto fa- vourable to our most sanguine hopes." Sailing on to the westward through Barrow Straits, he came to the mouth of an inlet ten leagues wide, which he explored to the distance of 120 miles, and to which he gave the name of Prince Regent; and returning to Barrow Straits he continued his westerly course, passing several bays and headlands on the northern shore, until he arrived at the mouth of a channel in which neither land nor ice could be seen from the mast-head. To this he gave the name of Wellington. As the season advanced, his progress westward be- came more difficult, on account of the frequent oc- currence of patches of ice ; however, he still held on, and had the great satisfaction of crossing the meridian of 1 10° W. from Greenwich on the 4th September, by which the expedition became entitled to the reward of 5000/ , promised by parliament to the first ship which should succeed in penetrating so far to the westward. 14 AiiCTIC KXPKDITIONS. r I They were now evidently navigating througli an archipelago of islands, to the largest of which Lieut. Parry gave the name of Melville, and to the entire group that of North Georgian. They are now called the Parry Group. The expedition proceeded to the western extremity of Melville Island, where they struggled in vain until the 20th of September to get further to the west, when the severity of the weather made it prudent to look out for a secure spot to pass the winter; and after cutting a canal through the ice, 4082 yards in length, the ships were hauled into winter harbour, on the south side of Melville Island, on the 2Gth of September. Here they remained through a long and dreary winter, which lasted for ten months, during three of which the sun was not seen at all. Admirable arrangements were made for employing the crews, and relieving the monotony of this long frosty night. Theatrical performances * were carried on, and a weekly journal established, called the North Georgian Gazette, or Winter Chronicle. It was edited by the present Colonel Saoine, who accompanied the expedition in the capacity of Astronomer, and it had a happy influence on the minds of tlie ice-bound adventurers. Some of the jeux d'esprit are very humourous. Here is an advertisement : — • The idea of providing amusement for ships' crews by theatrical en- tertainments is very ancient. In the log of a voyage to the East Indies, in 1007, it is recorded that Shakespcar's tragedies were occasionally acted, " to keep the people from idleness and unlawful games." M i ■■•:t i ■Ollit;, ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 15 dreary crews, y night, and a ■h i >urous. 1 ■1 rical en- M t Indies, 'M isionally .« " JFor ^alc bn Auction, By Nicholas Knockdown, at the Observatory, On the coldest day in January next, A quantity of Nankeen, the property of a gentleman who expected to get into the Pacific in September last. Flannels and Furs will be gladly taken as part payment." And under the head of " Fashionable Intelligence," we read : — ** The Earl and Countess of Musk Ox, Lord and Lady Deer, with their families, are shortly expected from the Continent. We also hear that several other persons of distinction are to arrive early in the spring. Among these are the gallant admiral Lord Glaucus, Colonel Swan, Major Goose, and their amiable ladies, who start immediately for the lakes ; and Sir Eider and Lady Duck, whose accouchement is expected to take place shortly. The Archdnke Bruin is recovering from his late attack of somno- lency and will soon be able to venture out," The narrative of Lieutenant Parry, relating to the wintering of the expedition at Melville Island pos- sesses peculiar interest at the present moment, bear- ing in mind the probability that our missing country- men have been obliged to spend one or more winters in that remote region. During their stay of nearly twelve months the island afforded them the following quantity of game : — 3 musk oxen, 24 deer, 68 hares, 53 geese, 59 ducks, and 144 ptarmigans; amount- 16 ARCTIC KXrKDITIONS. inp in wRiglil. to 376Glb8. of niout, or three pouiuls and a-half per month to each nian. It will be borne in mind that the expedition was Independent of the supply of game for subsistence, and that hunting parties were only occasionally sent out. It is probable that in the spring large numbers of deer arrive at Melville Island from the south. Parry saw the remains of huts there, which he conceives to have been erected by parties of hunting Esquimaux, who had followed the deer and oxen from Banks' Land. The existence of coal at Melville Island is another important circumstance in connection with the re- sources of that region. Tl.ermometrical observations show the maximum temperature of the air to have been 60°, the minimum 60° below zero, and the mean of the twelve months 1° 33'. The ice in the coldest period was found to have attained a thickness of eight feet. It was not until the 1st of August, 1820, that the ships were enabled to leave their v. inter quarters, but this date is earlier by 27 days than the period of Sir James Ross' liberation from Leopold Harbour, during his late expedition. Lieutenant Parry now resumed his exploration to the westward, but on arriving a little beyond the me- ridian where the ships had been arrested the former year, they were checked by a barrier of ice, extending before them, even more compact and impassable than they had previously witnessed. They had now to the north-east, Melville Island, and to the south-west, a bold coast which was called ■..•;jr I ARCTIC EXPKhlTIONS. 17 tion to me- tornier Ending than sland, called f 31 Banks' Land ; and as the ships were in constant danger of beiii;^ nipped by the ice, Lieutenant Parry deemed it desirable to return to Eniirland, whicl» he did in safety, after an absence of eighteen months, bringing back every officer and man (with only one exception, out of 94 persons,) in as robust health as when they left their country. I have dwelt on this expedition at some length, because, as you will observe, it made us acquainted with a vast extent of Arctic sea, and developed a north- west passage, extending half the distance between the entrance to Lancaster Sound and Behring Straits. Whether flu. rest of the passage can be effected on the parallel between Melville Island and Banks' Land remains uncertain ; for, until the expedition now under the command of Sir John Franklin was orfjan- ized, not one of those which succeeded that of Parry, having for their object Arctic researches, and the dis- covery of the north-west passage, was directed to the openings near Melville Island. The limits of this lecture preclude my doing more than alluding to these expeditions. They are twelve in number, four were performed by land, and were headed by Franklin, Back, Simpson, Dease, and Rae ; and the others were undertaken in ships com- manded by Parry, Clavering, Back, Lyon, Beechey, and John Ross. The time had long past when such expeditions were expected to develope commercial advantage. This, as we have seen, nerved our early voyagers to deeds of daring in the Arctic seas ; but the nobler motives of science actuated their successors, and the 18 ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. result of these expeditions was the acquisition of considerable scientific knowledge, particularly in the branch of magnetism, including the discovery of the magnetic pole, which immortalizes the name of James Ross, and extensive and complete information respecting the configuration of the north cc^.st of America, and a portion of the lands '^nd seas be- *ween it and Barrow Straits, and Lancaster Sound ; but the grand desideratum of the north-west passage still remained in obscurity. Such was the state of the question when, in December, 1844, Sir John Barrow, unwilling to close his long official career without one more endeavo"r towards the solution of the problem, submitted a proposition to the Admiralty and the Council of the Royal Society, which possesses so much interest at the present time that, being favoured with a copy of it, I feel much pleasure in laying it before you. — " Proposal for an attempt to complete the discovery of a north-west passage. " There is a feeling generally entertained in the several scient'fic societies, and individuals attached to scientific pursuits, and also among officers of the navy, that the discovery, or rather the completion of the discovery, of a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, round the northern coast of North America, ought not to be abandoned, after so much has been done, and so little now remains to be done ; and that with our present knowledge no reasonable doubt can be entertained that the accomplishment of so desirable an object is practicable. ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 19 )le " The case stands thus : since Captain (now Sir Edward) Parry on his first voyage passed Lancaster Sound, and proceeded without interruption to Mel- ville Island, the same sound has been repeatedly passed by himself, by Ross, and several whalers, and may therefore be considered passable in all years ; and this sound is one of the open gates of the passage ^o Behring Straits, which is the other gate, and has also been passed to a certain extent along the coast of America. There remains therefore to be navigated, on the Polar Sea, the distance between the meridian of Melville Island and that of Behring Straits, which is about 300 leagues ; and there are strong grounds for believing that, although Parry saw from Melville Island something that looked like the looming of land to the southward, which is marked on the Polar Chart as Banks' Land, yet even were it so, it would not in any way interfere with the direct track between Cape Walker (the last land on the south of Barrow Straits w'liich leads to Melville Island); and the ground on which it is assumed that in this track no land intervenes, is, that the whole north coast of America has been traversed by various persons by land, and in boats by water — Franklin, Back, Richardson, and Simpson — and nothing like land could be discovered from the high coast between the meridians of Cape Walker and Behring Straits, and little or no ice was observable, which is also the case on the coast of Siberia, as proved by Baron Wrangel. " It may be presumed, therefore, that a distance of 300 leagues on a clear j,ea, keeping knidway between the supposed Banks' Land and the coast of America, 20 ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. would accomplish an object which, at intervals during 300 years, has engaged the attention of crowned heads, men of science, and mercantile bodies, whose expectations were frequently disappointed, but not discouraged. " The Utilitarians were at all times ready enough to ask cui bono? but Elizabeth and her ministers, with their enlightened minds, sought for * knowledge,' the result of which they needed not to be told was 'power.' Observe what followed; the knowledge gained by the Arctic voyagers was not thrown away. Sir Humphry Gilbert, by his grant of the Island of Newfoundland, made his voyage thither, in which he nobly perished, but his knowledge did not perish with him ; on the contrary, it laid the foundation of the valuable cod fishery, which still exists. Davis, by the discovery of the strait that bears his name, opened the way to the whale fishery, still carried on ; and Frobisher pointed out the strait which conducted Hudson to the bay that bears his name, and which gave rise to the establishment of a company of mer- chants under the name of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, whose concerns are of that extensive nature as to be carried on across the whole Continent of Ame- rica and to the very shores of the Polar Sea. " Lastly, the discovery of Baffin, which pointed out, among others, the great opening of Lancaster Sound OF. the eastern coast of that bay which bears his naine, has in our time been foe. d to lead into the Polar Sea, through which the North-West Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific will one day be ac- complished, and for the execution of which we are ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 21 Ise lot now contending ; and which, if left to be performed by some other power, England, by her neglect of it, after having opened the east and west doors, would be laughed at by all the world for having hesitated to pass the thresholds. " It should not be overlooked that there are in the Pacific at this moment two fleets of the only two naval powers likely to undertake the enterprise in question ; and it is extremely probable some of their ships will make trial of this nearest passage home when they leave the Pacific station. "If expense be the only objection, it may be met by observing that one season only would suffice for its decision, and the cost not more than one-third of that of the late Antarctic Expedition under Sir James Ross, while one of the objects would be precisely the same as thac of the other, namely, observations on terrestrial magnetism — considered of such importance, that magnetic observatories have been established, through the influence of England, in almost every part of the ,lobe. *' Lieut.-Colonel Sabine, who has been named by the President and Council of the Royal Society for the reduction of ail these observations, has stated that magnetic observations made in this part of the Arctic regions would be most desirable ; and he further ob- serves, that he has no hesitation in saying * that a final attempt to make a Forth-West Passage would render the most important service that now remains to be performed towards the completion of the mag- netic survey of the globe; ' and it is hardly necessary I i 22 AKCTIC EXPEDITIONS. to say that the geography and hydrography of this part of the Polar Sea would be a valuable additioii to our knowledge of the globe, and well deserving the attention of a power like England. " There can be no objection with regard to any apprehension of the loss of ships or men. The two ships that recently were employed among the ice of the Antarctic Sea after three voyages returned to England in such good order as to be ready to be made available for employment on the proposed north-west expedition; and with regard to the crews, it is remarkable that neither sickness nor death occurred in most of the voyages made into the Arctic regions, north or south. " The two ships, the Erebus and Terror, are com- pletely fitted for a sea of ice, and are in a condition to be employed on a similar service without creating any delay. " It may also be observed that there is no want of officers who are well accustomed to an icy sea, ready and willing to embark on an expedition for completing the North-West Passage. " John Barrow." The President of the Royal Society lost no time in acquainting the Admiralty that the society were disposed to entertain Sir John Barrow's proposition favourably; but Lord Haddington desired further information on the subject, as will be seen by the following letter, which he addressed to Lord Northampton : — ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 23 r " Admiralty, December 26, 1844. " My dear Lord, " After due consideration of your letter, informing me of the wish of the Royal Society that another ex- pedition should be sent to the Polar regions, I find, that liowever glad I should have been at once to for- ward their views, I must in the jfirst instance be pos- sessed of such information as would justify me in preparing to fit out vessels at this moment (when we are under the necessity of keeping up so large a peace establishment) for any purpose, however in- teresting and important, that is unconnected with the ordinary service, and the execution of which might, perhaps, without inconvenience, be deferred. " 1 have the means, by communicating with the officers employed on the former expeditions, of ac- quiring much of the information I seek to obtain. " What I have to request of your Lordship is to move the Council of the Society to favour me with a report, which need not be a long one, of the ad- vantages to be derived to science by this expedition. I am now in possession only of their resolution on the subject. I wish to be enabled to explain more fully than I can now do the views of the council on this very important matter. " As soon as I have gained the requisite information, your Lordship shall hear from me again. " I have the honour to be, " My dear Lord, " Your most faithful Servant, " Haddington." " The Masquis of NontnAjn-Toif, " President of thu Koyal Society." ^\ _ i 34 ARCTIC EXPEDITIOKS. The Council again took the matter inio their con- sideration, and the result was, that they gave their cordial support to the proposed expedition, not only as likely to increase geographical knowledge, but as tending to advance the science of terrestrial mag- netism, which they have for many years been most zealous 'o promote. Acco singly it became known, in the early part of 1845, that the intrepid, and I may add veteran, Sir John Franklin, who had but recently returned from an arduous and anxious service at the Antipodes as Governor of Van Diemen's Land, had been ap- pointed by the Admiralty to command an Arctic expedition ; and, as it is always interesting to know something of the personal history of those appointed to conduct great undertakings, I may with propriety call your attention for a few moments to some par- ticulp.rs of Franklin's life. He was born at Spilsby, in Lincolnshire, in 1786, and early manifested an adventurous spirit. On one occasion, when at school, in his native county, he ran away one Saturday afternoon to the sea coast, twelve miles distant, to get a view of the ocean, and to use his own words, to make himself free of it, which he would have done by rushing into the water, notwith- standing that a heavy storm was then blowing, had he not been prevented by a chance spectator of his daring. His father, observing his predilection for a sea- faring life, sent him on a voyage to Lisbon in a merchant vessel, h ng to repress his inclination; but it had the cont v effect, and he soon afterwards ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 25 it entered the navy at the age of 14, as midshipman of the Polyphemus, in which he served at the battle of Copenhagen. He next sailed uiui<;r his cousin, Captain Flinders, and was with that officer, on the survey of the coasts of Australia, when the ship was wrecked. He w?a signal midshipman of the Belle- rophon, at Trafalgar, and was in the Bedford at the attack of New Orleans, in 1815, where he was the first who boarded one of the American gun-boats, and gained great credit for his gallantry. A few years afterwards we find him employed in Arctic researches. His extraordinary fortitude on that celebrated land expedition to the shores of the Polar Sea, when, with his companions. Sir John Richardson and Sir George Back, sufferings of the most appaUing nature were borne with devout resig- nation, must be well known to you ; but indeed in all his Arctic expeditions we find him displaying an endurance and heroism, alike commanding our ad- miration and esteem, and evincing qualities which eminently fit him for the command of a perilous enterprise. He has been particularly fortunate in the officers selected to serve under him in his present expedition. Captain Crozier, in command of the Terror, accom- panied Sir James Ross in his Antarctic voyage, and Commander, now Captain Fitzjames, who served in the Euphrates Expedition, and afterwards in the war in (Jhina, is one of the nio.-t 'jallant and excellent officers in the service. The Erebus and Terror were speedily prepared for saiiinyj. Tiieir equipmejit dif- fered, in one respect, from that of all ships previously c I t 26 ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. sent out on Arctic expeditions. This consisted in their being furnished with a small steam engine and Archimedean screw. But in the experimental trip made by the Errbus, to test the power of the screw, the utmost speed which could be attained did not amount to three knots an hour, although every means, as I can attest, having been on board at the time, were taken to increase this rate. The Erebus carried 12 warrant and petty officers, and 58 seamen and marines ; the Terror, 1 1 warrant and |)etty officers, and 57 seamen and marines ; making a total of 138 men. The ships were provided with the most improved magnetical and meteorological instruments, and with everything which the experi- ence gained by repeated Arctic researches could sug- gest. On the 19th of May, 1845, the expedition sailed. Sir John Franklin's official instructions directed him to proceed up Lancaster Sound with as little de- lay as j)ossibl to pass through Barrow Straits, not stopping to examine any openings to the south- ward or northward until he reached the lon«:i- tude of that portion of the land on which Cape Walker is situated, or about 98° west. From that j)oint he is desired to use every effort to penetrate to the southward and westward, in a course as direct towards Behring Straits as the position and extent of the ice, or the existence of land at present unknown, may admit ; but should this be impracticable; and if, on passing the strait between Devon and Corn- wallis Island, it is found to be open and clear of ice, he is desired to consider well whether that strait which is marked Wellington Chanjiel on the ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 27 map, may not offer a more practicable passage to the north-west. Considerable discretionary power is, however, given to Sir John Franklin; for the instructions state, that " In an undertaking of this description much must always be left to the discretion of the com- manding officer, and, as the objects of this expedi- tion have been fully exj)lained to you, and you already have had much experience on service of this nature, we are convinced we cannot do better than leave it to your judgment, in the event of your not making a passage this season, either to winter on the coast, with the view of following up next season any hopes or expectations which your observations this year may lead you to entertain, or to return to Eng- land to report to us the result of such observations, always recollecting our anxiety for the health, comfort, and safety of yourself, your officers, and men ; and you will duly weigh how far the advantage of starting next season from an advanced position may be coun- terbalanced by what may be suffisred during the winter, and by the want of such refreshment and refitting as would be afforded by your return to England." On the 31st of May we have a pleasant account of the expedition, and of its commander, in a letter from Captain Fitzjames to Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty, which the latter gentleman has kindly placed in my hands. Captain Fitzjames says : — " Sir John Franklin iS delightful, active, energetic, and evidently even now peiscvering. What lie has been we all know. I think it will turn out that he is c 2 S8 ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. in nowise altered. He is full of conversation and in- teresting anecdotes of his former voyages. I would not lose him for the command of the expedition, for I have a real regard, I may say affection, for him, and believe this is felt by all of us. I have not seen much of Crozier yet, but what I have seen I like, and I think he is just made for a second to Sir John Franklin. In our mess we are all very happy, we have a most agreeable set of men, and I could sug- gest no change, except that I wish you were with us." Again, on the 1st of July : " We did not go within 70 miles of Cape Farewell, but rounded it with a gale right aft, which followed us round with a heavy sea. We kept close reefed topsails, and reefed foresail, and made the old craft go eight knots through it. We lost no time, I can assure you; the only difficulty I had was to get Sir John to shorten sail when it was wanted. He is full of life and energy, with good -judgment and a capital nieniory — one of the best I know. His conversation is delightful and most instructive, and of all men he is the most fitted for the command of an enterprise requiring sound sense and great perseverance. I have learnt much from him, and consider myself most for- tunate in being with such a man ; and he is full of benevolence and kindness withal." The ships arrived at the Whale Fish Islands on July 4, 1845, from whence Captain Fitzjames writes on the 10th :— " The work of clearing the transport provision- ship has been a heavy one: we counted on doing it in two or three days at most ; but though we have ARCTIC EXPEDITIOXS. 29 worked from 4 a.m. to 6 p.m. hard, we shall only finish this evening, and I hope, swinj^ the ship to- morrow, and sail next morning, the 12th — rather late, but we can't help it ; and if we have a ijood breeze and open sea to Lancaster Sound, we shall be there before the Ist of August, which will be plenty of time ; but we must remember that Parry was 54 days doing it on one occasion. " You have no conception how happy we all are ; Sir John is delightful ; I believe, however, I told you of him in a former letter. We hear that this is supposed to be a remarkably clear season, but have as yet had no good authentic intelligence. However, clear, or not clear, we must go ahead, as the Yankees have it ; and if we don't get through, it won't be our fault. I can see, however, that even if there be a good passage, it is a perfect lottery what sort of season we have, and whether we happen to be at the particular spots at the most favourable moments. " I like Crozier, he is a most indefatigable man and a good observer ; just suited for his position, I should say." Lieutenant Griffith, who commanded the trans- port, gives a cheering account of the expedition on the eve of its departure for Lancaster Sound. He says, " Sir John is to sail to-morrow morning (Sunday), very early. All are in the highest possible spirits, and determined to succeed if success be possible. I am very sanguine, knowing their capabilities, and having witnessed their arrangements, and the spirit by which they are actuated. A set of more un- daunted fellows never were got together, or officers 30 AHCTK; liXrKDITIoNS. bctUT solectrd ; and never were ships more appropri- ately fitted, or better adapted for the arduous service they have to perform. We h'ft tliem with every spe- cies of provisions for tlnee entire years, in(U*pend- ently of five bullocks, which they were consuming, the weather not being sufticiently cold to keep or freeze them, as was originally intended. They have also stores of every descri|)tion for the same time, and fuel in abundance. " I am indeed certain that, if the icy barriers will be sufficiently penetrable to give them but half the length of their ships to force themselves through, they will do so at all risks ai: ! hazard. ** God speed them, and send them by Behring Straits to their native England, covered with im- perishable fame ! " The last accounts of the expedition bore the date of July 26, 1846, when Captain Dannett, of the Prince of Wales, whaler, fell in with the discovery ships, in Melville Bay, in 77° 48' north latitude, and 6*6° 13' west longitude, and reported that all hands were well and in high spirits. Such were the favourable circumstances under which this expedition passed from our view behind that icy curtain which clings for the greater part of the year around the North Pole. Little or no uneasiness was felt at the passing of 1846 without any intelligence arriving of the ex- plorers. It was well known by the relatives and friends of Sir John Franklin who conversed with him on the subject of the north-west passage im- mediately before he sailed, that he did not expect to V AHCTIC F.XrKDITIONS. 81 effect it in one schmoii. VVritiiif; to Colonel Subino from Wluile Fish Islands, he says : " I hope my dejir wife an«l daufrhter will not he over anxious if we should not return by the time they may have fixed upon, and 1 must be^ you to <;ive them the benefit of your advice and experient-e when that arrives, for you know well that even after the second winter, without success in our object, we should wish to try sonjc other channel if the state of our pro- visions and the health of the crews justify it." When, however, 1847 pfissed away, leavinj^ us entirely ignorant respecting the fate of the expedition, it was felt that another year should not be allowed to elapse without sending in search of the explorers. In the early part of 1847, several conferences had been held by the most experienced Arctic voyagers respecting the best mode of succouring Sir John Franklin in case he should not return, and it was eventually determined by the Admiralty that three expeditions should be equipped, one to follow in the track of the Erebus and Terror, through Lancaster Sound, one to be sent to Behring Straits, and the third, consisting of a boat party, to descend the Mackenzie, and search the American coast eastward of that river, leaving the coast to the west to bf; ex- plored by boats belonging to the ships despatched to Behring Straits. The command of the first expedition was given to Sir James Ross, who volunteered his services ; that of the second to Captain Kellett and Commander Moore ; and the third to Sir John Richardson, who, although but recently married, holding a lucrative ' 32 ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. Government appointment, and no longer in the en- joyment of youth, had in the noblest manner, utterly regardless of the fearful privations and dangers which attach to an Arctic expedition, and with which former expeditions had made him familiar, volunteered to relieve his former companion Sir John Franklin. Independently of thef^-e expeditions, an endeavour was made to interest the owners and captains of whalers in the search for the missing ships, by the offer of a reward of one hundred guineas to any f arty bringing information of the discovery ships. But neither this amount, nor the more appropriate sum of 3000/. offered with the same views by Lady Franklin, who, I must here observe, has exhibited an amount of devotion in the cause of her husband befitting the partner of so gr''ant a man, induced the whaler.a to turn aside from their legitimate duties to seek for the missing ships ; and although the reward was augmented in 1849 to 20,000/. it appears that it was understood to apply only to finding the missing mariners aUve, so that the few whalers that had not sailed when the reward was offered did not think it worth their while to make any searching efforts, for those made by Captain Penny, of the Advice, and Cap- tain Parker, of the Truelove, were prompted by the Esquimaux' report that the discovery ships were in LancRslei Sound. Ths Jjehring Straits' expeditiou consisted of the Plotter, under Commander Moore, who was directed to join Captain Kellett, of the Herald, in the Pacific, and proceed with him to the Straits. The Plover sailed from England on the 31st of January; but. \ i ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 33 beins: a miserably slow sailer, she did not arrive at the Sandwich Islands until the 22nd of August, far too late to prosecute the search in the Arctic seis during that year. The expedition conducted by Sir James Ross consisted of the ships Enterprise and Investigniar, built expressly for the occasion. Each ship carried a launch, fitted with a steam-engine and screw, of sufficient power to propel it at the rate of about five knots an hour. They were provisioned for three years, and sailed on the 12th of May, 1848. Sir James Ross was instructed, in the first in- '.tance, to examine the shores of Lancaster Sound, Barrow Straits, and, if possible, of Wellington Channel. The intervals of coast lying between Capes Clarence and Walker were next to be care- fully explored. The Investigator w «s then to be secured for the winter near Cape Rennell, from whence parties were to be sent across the ice to look thorougiily into the creeks along the western coast of Boothia as far as Cape Nicolai. The Enterprise was directed to press forward to the westward, and endeavour to reach winter harbour in Melville Island, or Banks' Land From this western station parties were to be despatched to communi- cate with Sir John Richardscn on the north coast of America. As a matter of course it was assumed that Sir James Ross might not be able to act on these in- structions; and the result of the search poworfuliy testifies how much the Arctic voyager is at the c 3 34 ARCTIC EXrKDITIONS. mercy of the tliick-ribbed ice that coats the northern seas. The sout.iern shores of Lancaster Sound and Bar- row Straits were exumined ; and the ships then stood over to the nortliern shore, and explored Maxwell Bay and some smaller indentations; but the ice was too heavy to allcvv Wellington Channel to be ap- proached. A compact pack extended from Cornwallis Island to Leopold's Island ; and it was with great difficulty that the ships entered the harbour of Port Leopold on the 11th of September. That night the main pack closed the land and completely sealed the mouth of the harbour. Indeed, Sir James Ross observes, that "he believes so great a quantity of ice was never before seen in Barrow Straits at this period of A\e season." Under these circumstances no attempt was made to pro- ceed to the westward in search of a harbour for the Enterprise, and both ships accordingly wintered in Fort Leoj)old. Though thus disappointed in the small advance made by the ships, it is doubtful, in Sir James Ross' opinion, whether a more eligible spot could have been selected for wintering than Port Leopold ; for being at the junction .>i the four great channels of Barrow Straits, Lancaster Sound, Prince Regent Inlet, and Wellington Channel, it was hardly possible for any party, after abandoning their ships, to pass along the shores of any of those inlets without finding indi- cations of Sir James Ross' proxinjity. During the wijiter a great many foxes were trapped, AKCnc KXI'KDJTIONS. 35 and coppor collars h}ivinf>- been provided, upon which a notice of the position of tlie ships, and of the depots cf provisions, was en done to save our brave countrymen. ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 47 There is another great nation beyond the Atlantic, who, it is hoped, will also hold out a helping hand — I allude to the United States of America. In answer to Lady Franklin's t-uching appeal, the President of that country has strongly urged the appropriation of a sum of money, to equip an expedition of relief, and letters which Lady Franklin has received coniiuuni- cate the gratifying intelligence that a subscription has been commenced for a private expedition, vvhich is headed by a retired merchant of great wealth and influence, with the munificent sum of 500C collars, which he has since increased to 15,000. These manifestations of sympathy do more to bind the two countries 'n boads of peace and concord than diplomatic conferences and political alliances. The cause of humanity belongs alike to all coun- tries and all parties, and it would be a glorious spec- tacle to behold the flags of many nations going forth in such a cause, to succour and to attve. li> NOTE. M Since this Lecture was delivered, the plans of the Ad- miralty have hem made public. Two sailing ships, the Baboo and the Ptarmigan, and two steamers, the Fider and the Free Trader^ will be sent to Barrow Straits, and adjacent localities, under the command of Captain Austm, who acted as First Lieutenant of the Fury, in Parry's third voyage in 1824. Independently of these. Captain Penny, late of the Advice, whaler, has bp en authorized by the Admiralty to fit out two ships, und to proceed in them to the same straits, in search of Sir John Franklin. G. Woodfall and Son, Printers, Angel Court, Skinnc: titreet, London. % *^t'tt^Ulkmmt ffSi-.i'l'**-?;.'' !mn:-^ -««.;'■■■ 5f'.>f ■ ,5^ >WMM«Mii Mahoit. . . ... . 6t, Stokers and Pokers^ Br A^wio* ot ''Bobbuii.^ . . 8*. e* TThe Lyhian Desert. Bt Batlb £1t. John. . . . s». fti A Residence in Sierra Leone. Bt a Ladt. ....&» Zt/^ o/'i^tr jTAomo^ Mumro. Bt Biv. a. B. Quiq. . s^ Memoirs of Sir Powell BunUm. Bt his Soir. . . 7«. &£ Z^j^ ^ Oliver Goldsmith Bt WAiBiKcnov iBynra. . 6t. ^^rW^^^M^^rf^AM'^^^^^^A^^^AA'NA^ The ''Hoxi AHD OoitOHiAL Libsabt" having bMn austftined duxing a period of Six yean with m» Hated success, Mr. Munay, anxious to guard against the objection oi. overloading the subscribwi with too large and cumbrous a series of books of one siae, has decided on concluding the work with its thirty-seventh volume. He is tims enabled to offer to the public a compact and portable wwk, the balk of whidi does not exceed the compass of a single shelf, or of one trunki suited for all classes and all dimates — of which the int«^t, value, and popularity, is not likely to be impaired by lapse of time. At the same time, the large circulation of thd " |[ pass, or at least maintain, Its literary vitlue and general> attraction. JOHN MURRAY, Albemarle Street. -fli I ^^?« ,>< • .^M^ .Ik, 2t.9d. ■tt