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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 6 partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche 6 droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. irrata to pelure, in 6 U 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 - \ 1 ^ \ \ \ \' ^ t '••4IIIIIIIIIII "^ i f iiiiiiiini>-«i (H^t^/r^ -s ♦ • • -^imiii ...,. -.. :.t.'. •iiiiiiiiii^>< •IdiiKS J. fhiij),, in, J'uhl i^-ficr. Wn.sfi hnjloit . f>. C, |i' I! / /&■ THE Cruise OF THE Florence; OR, I! f EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF THE PRE- LIMINARY ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF . 1877-78. ■ EDITED BY Captain H. W, Howgate, U. S. A. WASHINGTON, D. C. : James J. Chapman, Publisher. 1879. V- ..'' \ NORTHERN AFFAIRS & NATIONA! RESOURCES JUL 26 I960 Norliiern Affairs Library OTTAWA Eiitored accordinj? to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by James J. ChaPxMan, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C Thomas McGill & Co., Printers and Sterentypers, Washington, D. C. • Table of Contents. / IXTRODL'CTORY, I'AOK. : " J^ART flRST. New Loxdov to Cl'mberl\xd Gulf. *>■ 13 J^ART JSecOND. WlXTER IX CCMBERLAXD GULF, J'art Third. AXXAXATOOK TO DiSCO, 152 J^ART ^OURTH. Homeward Bouxd, 174 . Introductory. ( , A number of public spirited and generous citizens of the United States, having faith in the success of the colon- ization plan as a means of Arctic exploration, and believ- ing in its ultimate approval by Congress, in substantial accordance with the bill reported favorably from the Com- mittee on Naval Affairs of the House of Representatives at the last session of the Forty-fourth Congress, contributed from their private means a sufficient sum for the purchase and outfit of a small vessel to be sent to the Arctic seas for the purpose of collecting such supplies during the ensuing winter as might be useful for the main expedition of 1878, if that expedition should be authorized. It was at first intended to limit the mission of this vessel to the collection of material only, but the op'portunity for scien- tific investigation was so inviting, and the added cost in- curred thereby so very trifling in comparison with the results to be attained, that space was made on board for two observers and their necessary apparatus. One of these observers was selected upon the recommendation of Pro- fessor Elias Loomis, of Yale College, and instructed to pay especial attention to meteorological phenomena ; while the other was selected as naturalist of the expedition by Pro- fessor Spencer F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution, from whom he received special instructions. mm 6 INTRODUCTORY. Captain Oeorjjjc E. Tyson, who served on board the PoJiirLs with Captain Hall, was intrnsted with the task of selecting a suitable vessel for the preliminary expedition, which, while large enough to accomplish the desired ob- jects, would not exceed in cost the sum available for its purchase and outfit. After careful examination he selected the Florence, of New liondon, a schooner of fifty-six tons burden, which was purchased upon his recommendation, and the work of strengthening her for ice navigation at once conuiienced under his personal supervision. It was at first hoped to have the vessel ready for sailing on the 2oth of July, but the illness of Captain Tyson and the preva- lence of rainy weather delayed her until the morning of August 3, upon which date she sailed with a full crew and complete outfit for one year's work, including the neces- sary apparatus for a whaling vjyage on a small scale, as it was proposed that the vessel should bring on her return voyage a cargo of bone and oil, and thus make the enter- prise a self-supporting one if possible. The public interest evinced in the proposed station with- in the Arctic circle has been very gratifying from the first, and the fitting out of the preliminary expedition brought applications in great numbers, both personal and by letter, from parties desirous of accompanying it as members of the crew, as passengers, or in any capacity that would enable them to share in the prospective perils and honors of the enterprise. The number of good men offered was so large that it made the task of selection a difficult one, but it is believed that no little band better fitted out for the work, by strong frames, courage, and endurance, have INTRODUCTORY. «] ever gone forth to the Arctic seas than those who were finally selected and who sailed upon the Florence. The Florence was a good sea-boat, staunch, stout, sea- worthy, and a fast sailer, and was thoroughly strengthened for her encounters with the ice. The supply of provisions and other stores for officers and crew was carefully select- ed, and with proper economy would have proved ample for the voyage. Kind friends from all parts of the country contributed from their stores, in addition to articles of food and clothing, a liberal supply of )»ooks and papers to while avay the long, weary hours of the si.nless Arctic win- ter. A spare berth in the forecastle was filled with story- books, histories, novels, and voluines of })retry ; a large trunk was filled to overflowing with papi.Ti. and still another was loaded down with magazines : tlie whole making a library of considerable dimensions. The iieads of several departments of the Government manifested aTvindly inter- est in the expedition, not merely by verbal approval, but by substantial aid. The different bureaus of the War De- partment, acting under the authority of the Secretary of War, were particularly active in the matter. The Ord- nance Office furnished rifles and nuiskets and necessary ammunition. The Chief Signal Officer of the Arniy sup- plied a complete outfit of necessary instruments for mak- ing meteorological observations. The Surgeon - General furnished a supply of medicines and the necessary minor surgical instruments for use in case of accidents to mem- bers of the expedition, and the Quartermaster - General furnished tents and camp e'";uipage. The Secretary of the Navy furnished a complete outfit of maps, charts, and sail- V I f INTRODUCTORY. ing directions. To these heads of departments and bureaus the grateful thanks of the friends of Arctic exploration are due for their timely and efficient aid. The following instructions, furnished to Captain Tyson upon the day of sailing, will give an idea of the aim, objects, and scope of this preliminary expedition : Washington, July IG, 1877. Captain Gi:orge E. Tyson, Commandin}; Preliminary Arctic Expedition of 1877, New Loudon, Conn. Sir: The command of tlie schooner Florence^ of the Prelim- inary Arctic Expedition of 1877, is intrnsted to yon, and the officers and men forming tlie crew are enjoined to render t^trict obedience to your orders. In tlie event of your deatli while on this expecUtion — an event which is to be devoutly hoped may not occur — the command will devolve npon the tirst mate, and shonid he also be disabled or die, npon the second mate; and such snrvivor will carry ont to the best of his ability the objects of the expedition, keeping a stout heart and committing himsel* and comrades to the care of Divine Providence. THE OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION. The primary ol)ject of the expedition is the collection of ma- teiial for the use of the future colony on the shores of Ladv Franklin Bay. This material will consist of Esquimaux to the number of ten families, if that number can be obtained of young, strong, healtliy persons willing to be transferred to the location of the future colony; of dogs, not less than twenty-five in imm- ber, mostly females, and selected for their docility, training, strength, and einbu'ance ; of sledges, two in number, and com- pletely and carefully fitted up for tiavel; and of clothing in ample quantities to supply fifty persons for tlir<'e years. The clothing will be carefully selected, of choice furs and skins, and INTRODUCTORY. 9 all made up by native women. The secondary object of the expedition is the collection of scientific data and specimens, as the field is a new one and possessing nnusiial interest. WHALING EN VOYAGE. The third, and to the crew most iiiterestino- object, is the cap- ture of a sufficient amount of bone and oil to make a profitable retiirn cargo; and this part of the work is so completely within \'onr own province that I will not venture to give any instruc- tions. I must caution j'ou, however, to be on 3^our guard against letting the piu'suit of gain interfere in an}' manner with the suc- cessful issue of the two first-named objects of the expedition. It is from them that the lasting results of tlie voyage will be ob- tained and the interests of science and commerce best subserved. The precise locality of your winter qnartei-s is left in a great measm-e to your judgment, but should probabl\' be on the nortli- ern side of Cumberland Island. In making the selection, if the state of the weather and condition of the ice leave any choice, the locality should be that which is best adapted for the collection of supplies, and which otters th(» bt>st facilities for breaking out in the summer of 187S in time to reach Disco b}' August 1, if possi- ble, and certainly not later than August G. CARING FOR THE NATIVES AND DOGS. Provision must be made for tlie proper maintenance and care of the natives who are to become members of the futine polar colony; and also of the dogs which are to form so important a part of the outfit of that colony. They nnist be quartered as comfortably as the limited accommodations of the schooner will permit, fed well, and kept thoroughly clean. THE SCIENTISTS. The two scientific meuibers of the expedition, while not form- ing, strictly speaking, a part of the crew, will, in case of neces- sity, be required to perform duty, and will at ail times be sub- ject to your orders and discipline Every proper facility will be given i,l»em in the discharge of their respective duties, and to ■p ^ 10 INTRODUCTORY. aid in securina: full aiul valuable results from their labors. Mr. Slierman will have cliarge of the meteorological instruments, observations, anil records, and of the pliotographic ai)i)aratn3 and work. In both of these duties it is my wish tliat you sliould aid him cheerfully and constantly, and in the event of his sick- ness, or inability, from any cause, to attend to his observations, to make sucli arrangements as will insure a continuous series of the most important ones. The utmost caution nuist be exei-- cised in handling the delicate instruments, to guard against their breakage or other injury and the consequent interruption of the observations. Tlie results of th« photographic work will be very interesting to the general public as well as to the scientific stu- dent, and ever}' opportunity should be taken to secure good negatives of places, localities, and objects, and also of the difi'er- ent operations connected with the pursuit and capture of whales, seals, &c. Mr. Kumlein, who goes as the representative of the Smithsonian Institution, under the instructions of Professor Spencer F. Buird, the distinguished naturalist, for the purpose of collecting specimens of the flora and fauna of the couiitr}', will be accorded the most ample facilities for the performance of his duties consistent with a proper regard for the main object of the expedition. His labors, if properly supjiorted and reason- ably successful, will prove, it is hoped, of lasting advantage, and make the expedition a notable one in scientific ainials. THE EXPEDITION OF 1878. On reaching Disco in August, 1878, if the vessel carrvinit' the members and outfit of the colony has arrived, you will transfer to such vessel the Esquimaux, dogs, sledges, and clothi'ig col- lected for the purpose, and take the commanding ofiicer's receipt for the same. This l)eing done, you will return as rapidly as possible to New London, whence j'ou will n^port by telegraph to me at AVashington, D. C, for further orders. If the coloni- zation vessel has not arrived, you will wait for it until August 15, when you will store the sledges and clothing to the care of the Governor of Disco ; leave the dogs also in his care, and return INTRODUCTORY. 11 the natives to their home on Cumberland Ishmd. This done, j-on will return to New London and report, as before, for in- structions. Should any of your crew wish to accompany the colonization ves- sel, you will grant them permission to do so, with the consent of the comuKinder of that expedition, and provided you retain enough men to bring the Floirnce safely back to the United States. TEMPERANCE. Great care must be exercised in the use of spirituous liquors, both among the members of the expedition and in dealing with the natives. Useful as liquor undoubtedly is in itc place, and inider suitable restrictions, it is easily capable of the niost fright- ful abuse, and of leading this expedition to disaster, as it has done others in the past. 1 trust in your strong good sense and past experience to guard against danger from this soui-ce, and desire you to know that I have only permitted a sup[)ly in quantity of liqu«)rs to form part of the Florence's <"utlit in defer- ence to yoiir own strongly-expressed wishes. DEALING WITH THE AliORICilNES. In dealing with the natives it is my wish, as doubtless it is yoin- inclination, that you should be kind and liberal to the extent of your means and ability, and in all points of diftercnce. shoidd any arise, to be just, but firm. FINAL. Bear constantly in mind the fact that this is not a whaling voyage, but the first step in a work that will, I trust, when com- pleted, be a noteworthy one in the annals of geographical and scientific discovery. This fact should also be carefidly impressed upon the crew, in order that they may work intelligently and with proper interest. Be careful of the health of your men, using such measures for the purpose as your long experience in Arctic waters suggests as necessary. In conclusion, I commend youi'self and crew to the care of an 12 INTRODUCTORY. All-wise Power, with the prayer that your voyage may be pros- perous and your return a safe aud happy one. H. W. HOWGATE, • United States Army. Sailing from New London on August 3, 1877, the Flor- ence reached St. Johns, Newfoundland, on her homeward voyage, September 26, 1878. Here she remained, making such repairs as had been rendered necessary by the rough weather, until the 12th of October, when she sailed for home, encountering a succession of storms, during which anxious friends mourned for those on board as lost. She fortunately rode out the storms in safety, and, after touch- ing at Provincetown, Massachusetts, October 26, for sup- plies, dropped anchor in New London harbor on the morn- ing of the 30th, after an absence of fifteen months. Although the voyage was not a profitable one financially, owinjj to the unusual scarcitv of whales in Cumberland Gulf, in other respects it was satisfactory. Clothing was accumulated, dogs purchased, and the serv- ices of a sufficient number of the natives secured for the proposed station at Lady Franklin Bay, and had Congress granted the desired assistance, the Polar mystery would by this date have been solved. The following extracts from (>aptain Tyson's official jour- nal are published, to complete in detail the record of the expedition. The scientific results of the voyage will be soon given to the public. The report of the naturalist is now running through the press, while that of the meteorologist is nearly ready for the printer. • « t The Cruise of the Florence. ]^EW J-ONDON TO pUMBERLAND pULF. In the spring of 1877, nearly live years after my return from the Polaris Expedition, Captain H. W. Howgate, of the United States Army, conceived the plan of forming a colony in the Arctic regions for scientific observations, and also for the purpose of reaching the North Pole, if possible. With this end in view, he had many consultations with me and oth- ers relative to the subject and the best mode of car- rying it to a successful termination. It was finally settled that he would either charter or purchase a small vessel, to proceed to Cumberland Gulf, or else- where, to procure Esquimaux, dogs, sledges, and all the skins and skin-clothing that it was possible to ac- cumulate. The Esquimaux men were to be the dog- tirivers and the hunters of the expedition ; the wc^men were to be the boot-makers and the tailors. The em- ployment of the women was decided upon in view of the fact that it would be impossible, or very difficult, to induce the men to leave their native mountains (^ 14 THE CRUISE OF THE FLOR 3NCE. I. without their wives and children. The preUminary, expedition was to sail one year previous to the grand expedition, which it was supposed would start in the spring of 1878. It — the preliminary — was to winter in Cumberland Gulf, or elsewhere, where Esquimaux and the above-mentioned articles could be found and secured. In the spring of 1878, the vessel, on being relieved from her winter quarters, was to proceed di- rect to Disco Island, on the coast of Greenland, meet the main expedition at. that island, transfer whatever had been collected, ^nd return home. Evervthinff beins^ settled as to the future of the ex- pedition, should Captain Howgate succeed in starting one, a subscription list was opened in New York and elsewhere, and the desired amount was soon collected, and I was dispatched to procure a suitable vessel for the purpose. I arrived in New London, Connecticut, in the latter part of June, and there found the schoon- er Florence, belonging to Messrs, Williams & Haven. The Florence had recently arrived from a whaling voy- age around Cape Horn, and the lirm was desirous of selling her, as she was too small for its business. I" thought she would answer the desired purpose, and the vessel was finally purchased for the sum of ^4,000. Mr. Williams generously gave $200 toward the enter- prise. It was getting late in the season, and it was necessary to make all possible haste in preparing the vessel for sea and for sailing in the ice-ridden waters ( \\\ NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 15 of Davis's Strait. This wa^ accomplished by the 2d of August, and with, a " Farewell ! " and a " God bless you ! " to our loved ones, we sailed from New London harbor, to be gone probably fourteen months. The crew consisted of the following named persons: Geoi'ge E. Tyson, of New Jersey, master. William Sisson, of Connecticut, tirst officer. Denison Burrows, of Connecticut, second officer. ; Eleazor Cone, of Connecticut, steward. Richard B. York, of Connecticut, seaman. WiUiam A. Albion, of Connecticut, seaman. James W. Lee, of Connecticut, ordinary seaman. Joel B. Butler, of Connecticut, seaman. Charles H. Fuller, of Connecticut, green hand. David T. Reese, of Connecticut, ordinary seaman. John McPartland, of Connecticut, ordinary seaman. The passengers and scientists were Orray Taft Sher- man and Ludwig Kumlein. The mornins: we sailed the wind was to the east- ward, but we managed to fetch out of the harbor on the port tack, and also through the race. We were accompanied by quite a number of friends and ac- quaintances, and also by the steam-tug Wellington, Cap- tain Waterman, who was to take our temporary pas- sengers back. My little boy also accompanied me; but soon the motion of the schooner made him sea- sick. I attempted to console him, but he requested me not to talk to him, wIlq the remark that I ought 16 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. to know how it was myself. On getting well through the race, and our friends now growing rather noisy, I hailed the tug, and, heaving the schooner to. Captain • Waterman came alongside, and our friends, bidding us God-speed and a safe return, left us. Man is sel- dom or never contented. I must say I envied them. They were going back to their friends and loved ones, while I was going from them. The wind was still to the eastward, so we kept beat- ing to windward through the day. The ebb-tide swept us out so that by midnight we were well clear of Mon- tauk Point, the eastern point of Long Island. Nothing of note occurred until the 8th of August, when we sighted 8ambro Light. It was comparative- ly calm and somewhat foggy. Occasionally the mist would lift, displaying to our view the rock -bound coast of Nova Scotia, with its bold headlands, its farm cottages, and the light-house, which looks like some grim giant standing sentinel. It was my intention to go through the straits of Belle Isle, to shorten, if pos- sible, the passage north. This would cut oft* some three hundred miles, and I was in a hurry, as it was late in the summer, and we should at that date have been at our destination. We continued beatinsc alons^ the coast, the wind remaining in the eastern quarter, — now strong, then light ; and it was nearly all the time foggy. The vessel was kept close in with the land, — so close, indeed, that the breakers were seldom out of NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 1? hearing. I hoped in doing this to get a breeze from the land. On the 12th of August it was still foggy, though lift- ing occasionally. At 10.30 a. m. we passed the island (or, rather, rocks) of Scutari, the eastern end of the coast of Nova Scotia, and entered the Gulf of St. Law- rence. From the 12th to the 14th we had light east- erly wind and fog. The fog lifting on the 14th, we sighted the island of St. Paul, and in the afternoon the island of Newfoundland. The wind still remaining ahead, we had a dead beat of it. On the 16th the wind blew strong and the weather was thick. The schooner was brought down to close-reefed mainsail and foresail, with bonnet of jib. As if to make the weather more uncomfortable, it rained in torrents, but without abating the wind. On Sunday, August 19th, the wind died away, but left us the fog and rain. The schooner was very deep, and anything but comfortable in heavy weather, though she acted nobly throughout. As the straits were not altogether free from danger, I hauled up and bent the larboard chain. I hoped it would not be needed, but it was just possible that it might. The straits of Belle Isle are not the most pleasant place in which to get on shore. The wind continuing from the south and east, we made but slow progress. On the 29th the fog lifted for a few minutes, and we found ourselves in the narrows of the straits, with a large bark in com- 2 / / 18 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. pany. Beiu*]^ anxious to send word home, I watched my opportunity, and, in spite of the fog, luffed close ahead of the bark, dropped a boat and sent letters on board. She was bound to Europe, and had been eight- een days endeavorins^ to sret out of the straits, but could not on account of fog and head -winds. The second mate, whom I sent on board with the letters, did not ask her name, so I am unable 1o give it. On the return, of the boat we bore up again. The wind was light and variable, and the fog, if anything, more dense than ever. Now and then it would light up, disclosing to our view the shore, the huts of the tisliormen, and their small craft moored along the shore. Occasionally the fog would roll over us, en- veloping us in its disagreeable, wet, and sombre man- tle, and then the fog-horns would send forth their son- orous sounds from the surrounding vessels, the small craft joining in the chorus. In this manner we kept along, our own fog-horn continually going. On the 22d we sis^hted the Belle Isles, — Bis: Belle and Little Belle. I wislied to land on one or both of the islands ; but being some distance from them, and as it might cause a long delay, if not worse conse- quences, I decided not to do so. Towards evening a breeze sprung up from the south-w^est, with rain. We now stood out, between Great Belle and Little Belle, into the North Atlantic Ocean. The wind soon in- creased to a gale and brought us down to storm-sails. NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF. 19 The next day it was still blowing, but from the north- east. Toward evening, however, it moderated, and hauled to the south-east; and so it continued, — light breeze from the south-east, with thick fog and heavy swell; then light breeze from the north-east, thick fog and heavy swell. In fact, we had light breezes from every point of the compass, scarcely ever clear of fog, and all the time a heavy swell. The atmosphere light- ed up several times, however, and we could then see the land, — the coast of Labrador, — which was not far off. It seldom remained clear for more than an hour at a time. We seemed to can-y the fog with us, — calm and fog, light wind and log, and heavy swell all the time; so heavy, in fact, that to save the schooner's sails I lowered them and tied them up, to keep them from slating off her. This weather lasted till the 2d of September, with nothing to break the monotony except the sight of two icebergs. On the 2d we sight- ed Resolution Island. The wind ffave us a slant alonsf the coast. We stood across the mouth of Frobisher's Straits. I intended to enter Coddini? Bav, and to sail thence to ^ew-gum-eute, to trade for skins, and, if possible, to get some Esquimaux; but my hopes were premature. Again the fog shut down thicker than ever. In fact, we had groped our way in the dark from Xew London to Frobisher's Straits, and were vet in the darkness. Here we were, right in among the isl- and reefs, which lie some forty miles off the mainland,. i 20 THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE. 1 11 i with Htrong currcMts and bergs without nnmhor, a very heavy swell which we coiikl hear around iis, and were yet uncertain whether it was caused by the rocks or bergs. ITauling the jib to the mast, — for there was a hght breeze from the south-east, — we hiy quiet all night, except now and then keeping off for a supposed berg or an island. It was too dense to distinguish which, so we went by the sound of the breakers and avoided both. The weather continuing bad, we finally determined, as it was getting kite, to run for the Gulf of Cumber- land, and bore up on the 4th. Shortly after, hearing breakers close al)oard and directly ahead, lield off and passed near to several large bergs, against which the surf was breaking furiously. After clearing these mountains of ice we stood along for some time, when breakers were again heard. This time something besides ice was in the way. It proved to be one of the many islands in that vicinity. About the same time we sighted the island we discovered a large berg directly to windward and close to, — so close that I could have thrown a biscuit to it. It was not safe to put the helm down and go in stays, for the schooner would have gone directly into the berg, and the island was close under our lee, its perpendicular side dashing the spray high into the air. There was a good breeze, and we were on the wind. We could neither luff nor keep off, but must go between the berg