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/&■
THE
Cruise OF THE Florence;
OR,
I!
f
EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF THE PRE-
LIMINARY ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF
. 1877-78. ■
EDITED BY
Captain H. W, Howgate, U. S. A.
WASHINGTON, D. C. :
James J. Chapman, Publisher.
1879.
V-
..'' \
NORTHERN AFFAIRS
& NATIONA! RESOURCES
JUL 26 I960
Norliiern Affairs Library
OTTAWA
Eiitored accordinj? to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by
James J. ChaPxMan,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C
Thomas McGill & Co.,
Printers and Sterentypers,
Washington, D. C.
• Table of Contents.
/
IXTRODL'CTORY,
I'AOK.
: " J^ART flRST.
New Loxdov to Cl'mberl\xd Gulf. *>■
13
J^ART JSecOND.
WlXTER IX CCMBERLAXD GULF,
J'art Third.
AXXAXATOOK TO DiSCO,
152
J^ART ^OURTH.
Homeward Bouxd,
174
.
Introductory.
(
,
A number of public spirited and generous citizens of
the United States, having faith in the success of the colon-
ization plan as a means of Arctic exploration, and believ-
ing in its ultimate approval by Congress, in substantial
accordance with the bill reported favorably from the Com-
mittee on Naval Affairs of the House of Representatives at
the last session of the Forty-fourth Congress, contributed
from their private means a sufficient sum for the purchase
and outfit of a small vessel to be sent to the Arctic seas
for the purpose of collecting such supplies during the
ensuing winter as might be useful for the main expedition
of 1878, if that expedition should be authorized. It was
at first intended to limit the mission of this vessel to the
collection of material only, but the op'portunity for scien-
tific investigation was so inviting, and the added cost in-
curred thereby so very trifling in comparison with the
results to be attained, that space was made on board for
two observers and their necessary apparatus. One of these
observers was selected upon the recommendation of Pro-
fessor Elias Loomis, of Yale College, and instructed to pay
especial attention to meteorological phenomena ; while the
other was selected as naturalist of the expedition by Pro-
fessor Spencer F. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution,
from whom he received special instructions.
mm
6
INTRODUCTORY.
Captain Oeorjjjc E. Tyson, who served on board the
PoJiirLs with Captain Hall, was intrnsted with the task of
selecting a suitable vessel for the preliminary expedition,
which, while large enough to accomplish the desired ob-
jects, would not exceed in cost the sum available for its
purchase and outfit. After careful examination he selected
the Florence, of New liondon, a schooner of fifty-six tons
burden, which was purchased upon his recommendation,
and the work of strengthening her for ice navigation at
once conuiienced under his personal supervision. It was at
first hoped to have the vessel ready for sailing on the 2oth
of July, but the illness of Captain Tyson and the preva-
lence of rainy weather delayed her until the morning of
August 3, upon which date she sailed with a full crew and
complete outfit for one year's work, including the neces-
sary apparatus for a whaling vjyage on a small scale, as
it was proposed that the vessel should bring on her return
voyage a cargo of bone and oil, and thus make the enter-
prise a self-supporting one if possible.
The public interest evinced in the proposed station with-
in the Arctic circle has been very gratifying from the first,
and the fitting out of the preliminary expedition brought
applications in great numbers, both personal and by letter,
from parties desirous of accompanying it as members of
the crew, as passengers, or in any capacity that would
enable them to share in the prospective perils and honors
of the enterprise. The number of good men offered was
so large that it made the task of selection a difficult one,
but it is believed that no little band better fitted out for
the work, by strong frames, courage, and endurance, have
INTRODUCTORY.
«]
ever gone forth to the Arctic seas than those who were
finally selected and who sailed upon the Florence.
The Florence was a good sea-boat, staunch, stout, sea-
worthy, and a fast sailer, and was thoroughly strengthened
for her encounters with the ice. The supply of provisions
and other stores for officers and crew was carefully select-
ed, and with proper economy would have proved ample for
the voyage. Kind friends from all parts of the country
contributed from their stores, in addition to articles of
food and clothing, a liberal supply of )»ooks and papers to
while avay the long, weary hours of the si.nless Arctic win-
ter. A spare berth in the forecastle was filled with story-
books, histories, novels, and voluines of })retry ; a large
trunk was filled to overflowing with papi.Ti. and still another
was loaded down with magazines : tlie whole making a
library of considerable dimensions. The iieads of several
departments of the Government manifested aTvindly inter-
est in the expedition, not merely by verbal approval, but
by substantial aid. The different bureaus of the War De-
partment, acting under the authority of the Secretary of
War, were particularly active in the matter. The Ord-
nance Office furnished rifles and nuiskets and necessary
ammunition. The Chief Signal Officer of the Arniy sup-
plied a complete outfit of necessary instruments for mak-
ing meteorological observations. The Surgeon - General
furnished a supply of medicines and the necessary minor
surgical instruments for use in case of accidents to mem-
bers of the expedition, and the Quartermaster - General
furnished tents and camp e'";uipage. The Secretary of the
Navy furnished a complete outfit of maps, charts, and sail-
V I f
INTRODUCTORY.
ing directions. To these heads of departments and bureaus
the grateful thanks of the friends of Arctic exploration are
due for their timely and efficient aid.
The following instructions, furnished to Captain Tyson
upon the day of sailing, will give an idea of the aim, objects,
and scope of this preliminary expedition :
Washington, July IG, 1877.
Captain Gi:orge E. Tyson,
Commandin}; Preliminary Arctic Expedition of 1877,
New Loudon, Conn.
Sir: The command of tlie schooner Florence^ of the Prelim-
inary Arctic Expedition of 1877, is intrnsted to yon, and the
officers and men forming tlie crew are enjoined to render t^trict
obedience to your orders.
In tlie event of your deatli while on this expecUtion — an event
which is to be devoutly hoped may not occur — the command
will devolve npon the tirst mate, and shonid he also be disabled
or die, npon the second mate; and such snrvivor will carry ont
to the best of his ability the objects of the expedition, keeping
a stout heart and committing himsel* and comrades to the care
of Divine Providence.
THE OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION.
The primary ol)ject of the expedition is the collection of ma-
teiial for the use of the future colony on the shores of Ladv
Franklin Bay. This material will consist of Esquimaux to the
number of ten families, if that number can be obtained of young,
strong, healtliy persons willing to be transferred to the location
of the future colony; of dogs, not less than twenty-five in imm-
ber, mostly females, and selected for their docility, training,
strength, and einbu'ance ; of sledges, two in number, and com-
pletely and carefully fitted up for tiavel; and of clothing in
ample quantities to supply fifty persons for tlir<'e years. The
clothing will be carefully selected, of choice furs and skins, and
INTRODUCTORY.
9
all made up by native women. The secondary object of the
expedition is the collection of scientific data and specimens, as
the field is a new one and possessing nnusiial interest.
WHALING EN VOYAGE.
The third, and to the crew most iiiterestino- object, is the cap-
ture of a sufficient amount of bone and oil to make a profitable
retiirn cargo; and this part of the work is so completely within
\'onr own province that I will not venture to give any instruc-
tions. I must caution j'ou, however, to be on 3^our guard against
letting the piu'suit of gain interfere in an}' manner with the suc-
cessful issue of the two first-named objects of the expedition. It
is from them that the lasting results of tlie voyage will be ob-
tained and the interests of science and commerce best subserved.
The precise locality of your winter qnartei-s is left in a great
measm-e to your judgment, but should probabl\' be on the nortli-
ern side of Cumberland Island. In making the selection, if the
state of the weather and condition of the ice leave any choice, the
locality should be that which is best adapted for the collection of
supplies, and which otters th(» bt>st facilities for breaking out in
the summer of 187S in time to reach Disco b}' August 1, if possi-
ble, and certainly not later than August G.
CARING FOR THE NATIVES AND DOGS.
Provision must be made for tlie proper maintenance and care
of the natives who are to become members of the futine polar
colony; and also of the dogs which are to form so important a
part of the outfit of that colony. They nnist be quartered as
comfortably as the limited accommodations of the schooner will
permit, fed well, and kept thoroughly clean.
THE SCIENTISTS.
The two scientific meuibers of the expedition, while not form-
ing, strictly speaking, a part of the crew, will, in case of neces-
sity, be required to perform duty, and will at ail times be sub-
ject to your orders and discipline Every proper facility will
be given i,l»em in the discharge of their respective duties, and to
■p
^
10
INTRODUCTORY.
aid in securina: full aiul valuable results from their labors. Mr.
Slierman will have cliarge of the meteorological instruments,
observations, anil records, and of the pliotographic ai)i)aratn3
and work. In both of these duties it is my wish tliat you sliould
aid him cheerfully and constantly, and in the event of his sick-
ness, or inability, from any cause, to attend to his observations,
to make sucli arrangements as will insure a continuous series
of the most important ones. The utmost caution nuist be exei--
cised in handling the delicate instruments, to guard against their
breakage or other injury and the consequent interruption of the
observations. Tlie results of th« photographic work will be very
interesting to the general public as well as to the scientific stu-
dent, and ever}' opportunity should be taken to secure good
negatives of places, localities, and objects, and also of the difi'er-
ent operations connected with the pursuit and capture of whales,
seals, &c. Mr. Kumlein, who goes as the representative of the
Smithsonian Institution, under the instructions of Professor
Spencer F. Buird, the distinguished naturalist, for the purpose
of collecting specimens of the flora and fauna of the couiitr}',
will be accorded the most ample facilities for the performance
of his duties consistent with a proper regard for the main object
of the expedition. His labors, if properly supjiorted and reason-
ably successful, will prove, it is hoped, of lasting advantage, and
make the expedition a notable one in scientific ainials.
THE EXPEDITION OF 1878.
On reaching Disco in August, 1878, if the vessel carrvinit' the
members and outfit of the colony has arrived, you will transfer
to such vessel the Esquimaux, dogs, sledges, and clothi'ig col-
lected for the purpose, and take the commanding ofiicer's receipt
for the same. This l)eing done, you will return as rapidly as
possible to New London, whence j'ou will n^port by telegraph
to me at AVashington, D. C, for further orders. If the coloni-
zation vessel has not arrived, you will wait for it until August 15,
when you will store the sledges and clothing to the care of the
Governor of Disco ; leave the dogs also in his care, and return
INTRODUCTORY.
11
the natives to their home on Cumberland Ishmd. This done,
j-on will return to New London and report, as before, for in-
structions.
Should any of your crew wish to accompany the colonization ves-
sel, you will grant them permission to do so, with the consent of the
comuKinder of that expedition, and provided you retain enough
men to bring the Floirnce safely back to the United States.
TEMPERANCE.
Great care must be exercised in the use of spirituous liquors,
both among the members of the expedition and in dealing with
the natives. Useful as liquor undoubtedly is in itc place, and
inider suitable restrictions, it is easily capable of the niost fright-
ful abuse, and of leading this expedition to disaster, as it has
done others in the past. 1 trust in your strong good sense and
past experience to guard against danger from this soui-ce, and
desire you to know that I have only permitted a sup[)ly in
quantity of liqu«)rs to form part of the Florence's <"utlit in defer-
ence to yoiir own strongly-expressed wishes.
DEALING WITH THE AliORICilNES.
In dealing with the natives it is my wish, as doubtless it is
yoin- inclination, that you should be kind and liberal to the
extent of your means and ability, and in all points of diftercnce.
shoidd any arise, to be just, but firm.
FINAL.
Bear constantly in mind the fact that this is not a whaling
voyage, but the first step in a work that will, I trust, when com-
pleted, be a noteworthy one in the annals of geographical and
scientific discovery. This fact should also be carefidly impressed
upon the crew, in order that they may work intelligently and
with proper interest.
Be careful of the health of your men, using such measures for
the purpose as your long experience in Arctic waters suggests as
necessary.
In conclusion, I commend youi'self and crew to the care of an
12
INTRODUCTORY.
All-wise Power, with the prayer that your voyage may be pros-
perous and your return a safe aud happy one.
H. W. HOWGATE,
• United States Army.
Sailing from New London on August 3, 1877, the Flor-
ence reached St. Johns, Newfoundland, on her homeward
voyage, September 26, 1878. Here she remained, making
such repairs as had been rendered necessary by the rough
weather, until the 12th of October, when she sailed for
home, encountering a succession of storms, during which
anxious friends mourned for those on board as lost. She
fortunately rode out the storms in safety, and, after touch-
ing at Provincetown, Massachusetts, October 26, for sup-
plies, dropped anchor in New London harbor on the morn-
ing of the 30th, after an absence of fifteen months.
Although the voyage was not a profitable one financially,
owinjj to the unusual scarcitv of whales in Cumberland
Gulf, in other respects it was satisfactory.
Clothing was accumulated, dogs purchased, and the serv-
ices of a sufficient number of the natives secured for the
proposed station at Lady Franklin Bay, and had Congress
granted the desired assistance, the Polar mystery would by
this date have been solved.
The following extracts from (>aptain Tyson's official jour-
nal are published, to complete in detail the record of the
expedition.
The scientific results of the voyage will be soon given to
the public. The report of the naturalist is now running
through the press, while that of the meteorologist is nearly
ready for the printer. • «
t
The Cruise of the Florence.
]^EW J-ONDON TO pUMBERLAND pULF.
In the spring of 1877, nearly live years after my
return from the Polaris Expedition, Captain H. W.
Howgate, of the United States Army, conceived the
plan of forming a colony in the Arctic regions for
scientific observations, and also for the purpose of
reaching the North Pole, if possible. With this end
in view, he had many consultations with me and oth-
ers relative to the subject and the best mode of car-
rying it to a successful termination. It was finally
settled that he would either charter or purchase a
small vessel, to proceed to Cumberland Gulf, or else-
where, to procure Esquimaux, dogs, sledges, and all
the skins and skin-clothing that it was possible to ac-
cumulate. The Esquimaux men were to be the dog-
tirivers and the hunters of the expedition ; the wc^men
were to be the boot-makers and the tailors. The em-
ployment of the women was decided upon in view of
the fact that it would be impossible, or very difficult,
to induce the men to leave their native mountains
(^
14
THE CRUISE OF THE FLOR 3NCE.
I.
without their wives and children. The preUminary,
expedition was to sail one year previous to the grand
expedition, which it was supposed would start in the
spring of 1878. It — the preliminary — was to winter
in Cumberland Gulf, or elsewhere, where Esquimaux
and the above-mentioned articles could be found and
secured. In the spring of 1878, the vessel, on being
relieved from her winter quarters, was to proceed di-
rect to Disco Island, on the coast of Greenland, meet
the main expedition at. that island, transfer whatever
had been collected, ^nd return home.
Evervthinff beins^ settled as to the future of the ex-
pedition, should Captain Howgate succeed in starting
one, a subscription list was opened in New York and
elsewhere, and the desired amount was soon collected,
and I was dispatched to procure a suitable vessel for
the purpose. I arrived in New London, Connecticut,
in the latter part of June, and there found the schoon-
er Florence, belonging to Messrs, Williams & Haven.
The Florence had recently arrived from a whaling voy-
age around Cape Horn, and the lirm was desirous of
selling her, as she was too small for its business. I"
thought she would answer the desired purpose, and
the vessel was finally purchased for the sum of ^4,000.
Mr. Williams generously gave $200 toward the enter-
prise. It was getting late in the season, and it was
necessary to make all possible haste in preparing the
vessel for sea and for sailing in the ice-ridden waters
(
\\\
NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF.
15
of Davis's Strait. This wa^ accomplished by the 2d of
August, and with, a " Farewell ! " and a " God bless
you ! " to our loved ones, we sailed from New London
harbor, to be gone probably fourteen months. The
crew consisted of the following named persons:
Geoi'ge E. Tyson, of New Jersey, master.
William Sisson, of Connecticut, tirst officer.
Denison Burrows, of Connecticut, second officer. ;
Eleazor Cone, of Connecticut, steward.
Richard B. York, of Connecticut, seaman.
WiUiam A. Albion, of Connecticut, seaman.
James W. Lee, of Connecticut, ordinary seaman.
Joel B. Butler, of Connecticut, seaman.
Charles H. Fuller, of Connecticut, green hand.
David T. Reese, of Connecticut, ordinary seaman.
John McPartland, of Connecticut, ordinary seaman.
The passengers and scientists were Orray Taft Sher-
man and Ludwig Kumlein.
The mornins: we sailed the wind was to the east-
ward, but we managed to fetch out of the harbor on
the port tack, and also through the race. We were
accompanied by quite a number of friends and ac-
quaintances, and also by the steam-tug Wellington, Cap-
tain Waterman, who was to take our temporary pas-
sengers back. My little boy also accompanied me;
but soon the motion of the schooner made him sea-
sick. I attempted to console him, but he requested
me not to talk to him, wIlq the remark that I ought
16
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
to know how it was myself. On getting well through
the race, and our friends now growing rather noisy, I
hailed the tug, and, heaving the schooner to. Captain •
Waterman came alongside, and our friends, bidding
us God-speed and a safe return, left us. Man is sel-
dom or never contented. I must say I envied them.
They were going back to their friends and loved ones,
while I was going from them.
The wind was still to the eastward, so we kept beat-
ing to windward through the day. The ebb-tide swept
us out so that by midnight we were well clear of Mon-
tauk Point, the eastern point of Long Island.
Nothing of note occurred until the 8th of August,
when we sighted 8ambro Light. It was comparative-
ly calm and somewhat foggy. Occasionally the mist
would lift, displaying to our view the rock -bound
coast of Nova Scotia, with its bold headlands, its farm
cottages, and the light-house, which looks like some
grim giant standing sentinel. It was my intention to
go through the straits of Belle Isle, to shorten, if pos-
sible, the passage north. This would cut oft* some three
hundred miles, and I was in a hurry, as it was late in
the summer, and we should at that date have been
at our destination. We continued beatinsc alons^ the
coast, the wind remaining in the eastern quarter, —
now strong, then light ; and it was nearly all the time
foggy. The vessel was kept close in with the land, —
so close, indeed, that the breakers were seldom out of
NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF.
1?
hearing. I hoped in doing this to get a breeze from
the land.
On the 12th of August it was still foggy, though lift-
ing occasionally. At 10.30 a. m. we passed the island
(or, rather, rocks) of Scutari, the eastern end of the
coast of Nova Scotia, and entered the Gulf of St. Law-
rence. From the 12th to the 14th we had light east-
erly wind and fog. The fog lifting on the 14th, we
sighted the island of St. Paul, and in the afternoon the
island of Newfoundland. The wind still remaining
ahead, we had a dead beat of it. On the 16th the
wind blew strong and the weather was thick. The
schooner was brought down to close-reefed mainsail
and foresail, with bonnet of jib. As if to make the
weather more uncomfortable, it rained in torrents, but
without abating the wind.
On Sunday, August 19th, the wind died away, but
left us the fog and rain. The schooner was very deep,
and anything but comfortable in heavy weather, though
she acted nobly throughout. As the straits were not
altogether free from danger, I hauled up and bent the
larboard chain. I hoped it would not be needed, but
it was just possible that it might. The straits of Belle
Isle are not the most pleasant place in which to get on
shore. The wind continuing from the south and east,
we made but slow progress. On the 29th the fog
lifted for a few minutes, and we found ourselves in
the narrows of the straits, with a large bark in com-
2
/
/
18
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
pany. Beiu*]^ anxious to send word home, I watched
my opportunity, and, in spite of the fog, luffed close
ahead of the bark, dropped a boat and sent letters on
board. She was bound to Europe, and had been eight-
een days endeavorins^ to sret out of the straits, but
could not on account of fog and head -winds. The
second mate, whom I sent on board with the letters,
did not ask her name, so I am unable 1o give it.
On the return, of the boat we bore up again. The
wind was light and variable, and the fog, if anything,
more dense than ever. Now and then it would light
up, disclosing to our view the shore, the huts of the
tisliormen, and their small craft moored along the
shore. Occasionally the fog would roll over us, en-
veloping us in its disagreeable, wet, and sombre man-
tle, and then the fog-horns would send forth their son-
orous sounds from the surrounding vessels, the small
craft joining in the chorus. In this manner we kept
along, our own fog-horn continually going.
On the 22d we sis^hted the Belle Isles, — Bis: Belle
and Little Belle. I wislied to land on one or both of
the islands ; but being some distance from them, and
as it might cause a long delay, if not worse conse-
quences, I decided not to do so. Towards evening a
breeze sprung up from the south-w^est, with rain. We
now stood out, between Great Belle and Little Belle,
into the North Atlantic Ocean. The wind soon in-
creased to a gale and brought us down to storm-sails.
NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF.
19
The next day it was still blowing, but from the north-
east. Toward evening, however, it moderated, and
hauled to the south-east; and so it continued, — light
breeze from the south-east, with thick fog and heavy
swell; then light breeze from the north-east, thick fog
and heavy swell. In fact, we had light breezes from
every point of the compass, scarcely ever clear of fog,
and all the time a heavy swell. The atmosphere light-
ed up several times, however, and we could then see
the land, — the coast of Labrador, — which was not far
off. It seldom remained clear for more than an hour
at a time. We seemed to can-y the fog with us, — calm
and fog, light wind and log, and heavy swell all the
time; so heavy, in fact, that to save the schooner's
sails I lowered them and tied them up, to keep them
from slating off her. This weather lasted till the 2d
of September, with nothing to break the monotony
except the sight of two icebergs. On the 2d we sight-
ed Resolution Island. The wind ffave us a slant alonsf
the coast. We stood across the mouth of Frobisher's
Straits. I intended to enter Coddini? Bav, and to sail
thence to ^ew-gum-eute, to trade for skins, and, if
possible, to get some Esquimaux; but my hopes were
premature. Again the fog shut down thicker than
ever. In fact, we had groped our way in the dark
from Xew London to Frobisher's Straits, and were vet
in the darkness. Here we were, right in among the isl-
and reefs, which lie some forty miles off the mainland,.
i
20
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
1
11
i
with Htrong currcMts and bergs without nnmhor, a very
heavy swell which we coiikl hear around iis, and were
yet uncertain whether it was caused by the rocks or
bergs. ITauling the jib to the mast, — for there was a
hght breeze from the south-east, — we hiy quiet all
night, except now and then keeping off for a supposed
berg or an island. It was too dense to distinguish
which, so we went by the sound of the breakers and
avoided both.
The weather continuing bad, we finally determined,
as it was getting kite, to run for the Gulf of Cumber-
land, and bore up on the 4th. Shortly after, hearing
breakers close al)oard and directly ahead, lield off and
passed near to several large bergs, against which the
surf was breaking furiously.
After clearing these mountains of ice we stood along
for some time, when breakers were again heard. This
time something besides ice was in the way. It proved
to be one of the many islands in that vicinity. About
the same time we sighted the island we discovered
a large berg directly to windward and close to, — so
close that I could have thrown a biscuit to it. It was
not safe to put the helm down and go in stays, for the
schooner would have gone directly into the berg, and
the island was close under our lee, its perpendicular
side dashing the spray high into the air. There was a
good breeze, and we were on the wind. We could
neither luff nor keep off, but must go between the berg
<v
NEW LONDON TO CrMDERLANI) r.ULF.
21
and
and tlie island ; and this we did. The little schooner
shot tlu'ough like a thing endowed with Ht'e, and in an
instant, ahriost, the berg and island were hidden IVoni
view in the fog. Jnst previous to this we kept ofl' to
clear what we thought to he bergs ; but on getting to
leeward of them the fog lifted a very little and dis-
closed to us two islands within a stone's-throw.
I now tried to think where we were, and canio to
the conclusion that w^e were off the southernmost cape
of the entrance to the gulf.
On the 5th the wind was strong from the north-east,
witli rain and a heavy sea. We siglited land and
tacked close to it. The fog was too thick to permit
me to make out the locality. Tov/ards evening the
wind backed to the north and blew strongly, which
broi ght us down under close-reefed sails.
On the 6th the wind was very strong from the north
and west. We could see the land, and ascertained
our position. We were in the mouth of the gulf.
T'he north-west wind was extremely cold. We had
warm east and south-east winds up to this date, and
therefore felt the cold severely.
The gale lasted until the 8th, when it moderated.
Towards evening a light breeze §prung up from the
south-east, and rain conmienced falling. We were
now off Kuk-e-luver Island, about twentv miles below
Kiantilic Harbor. Towards evening the rain ceased
and the wind shifted to the north-west, and soon in-
22
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
hi
, i
i
creased to a heavy gale. The schooner was put under
storm-sails, and began drifting out into the gulf. The
gale was fearful through the night and the sea ran
very high, and, to add terror to our situation, the
night was most intensely dark. At 3 o'clock on the
morning of the 10th, when the gale was at its height
and the sea running heavily, I found it necessary to
wear around on the other tack.
There was danger in such a storm and in such a sea,
but it must be done. All the sail the schooner was
able to carry was a close-reefed foresail, to keep lier
from rolling to windward, of which there was great
danger.
There was another danger, greater than all the rest,
which none but myself knew. This was, of drifting
upon Wareman's Island, rising some two thousand
feet above the sea, and close under our lee. All hands
were called and everything made ready. The helm
was put hard-up, and in an instant her head payed off.
She lay deep in the swell, her lee rail and half of the
deck being under water; in fact, for an instant she
appeared to be on her beam ends. She obeyed her
helm admirably at this critical juncture, and as her
head payed off a little more, the pressure on her be-
came less, she righted, and, shaking herself like some
huge water-dog, bounded off before the wind.
AVatching my opportunity, I brought her safely to
on the other tack, and she rode out the gale. In the
i^
■Y
\
NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF.
23
under
The
a ran
1, the
m the
iieiglit
ary to
a sea,
3r was
3p Tier
great
e rest,
rifting
)u.sand
hands
) hehii
'ed off.
of the
nt she
ed her
as her
her l)e-
3 some
ifely to
In the
morning the wind moderated, but at sunrise it was
still blowing sti'onglj. The 11th brought no better
weather, until along towards evening, when the wind
died away, with occasional snow-squalls, and we passed
a comfortable night.
The damages by the gale may be summed up as fol-
lows: One boat stove in; one steerinsr oar and one
barrel of onions swept overboard; and a good scare
for all hands.
Shortly after sunrise, on the 12th, the wind com-
menced to blow from the south-east. We were then
about thirty miles below Kuk-e-luyer Island, having
drifted about thirt\' miles in the i^ale. Makinsj all
sail, we ran off before the wind, and at 8 o'clock that
afternoon were safely anchoredv in Niantilic Harbor.
At Niantilic we found the brig Alert, Captain Wat-
son, of Peterhead, Scotland, and the bark Polar St((r, of
the same place. Parties from these vessels soon came
on board and gave us the news. The steamer Exan-
the, Captain Simon, and the steamer Windward, Cap-
tain Murray, b.ad been in the gulf; but as soon as the
whaling was over had sailed for New-gum-eute, tak-
ing with them most of the Escpiimaux. This was l)ad
news for us, as most of the skins worth purchasing
must certainly have been taken l)y these vessels. They
had also carried away the natives whom we had hoped
to get. The Pcrscvera.nr.e, Captain J3rown, was at
Kickerton Island, on the other side of the gulf. They
■■ii»mii^»ii 'Dn
24
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
m
il I
expected him over in a few days, and that he would
winter here.
Murray, with his steamer, w\as coming back in the
fall, and he, too, was going to winter here. This was
a damper to all my hopes. What with four vessels
wintering here, all with large crews, and two steamers
at Kickerton Island with more men, who must all have
skin-clothing, and with plenty of truck or material to
trade for it, my chances were very poor of getting
skin-clothing and Esquimaux sufficient to satisfy those
who inti'usted me with the command of the vessel for
tliat very purpose. It was too late to leave the gulf
and seek a more favorable place, so I concluded to
stav and do the best I could. The natives were off
deer-huntins;, and tbere were onlv two families left on
shore, those of old Tes-e-wane and another, both crip-
[)les. Old Tes-e-wane has been a very useful man here-
tofore, but has recently been disabled by the premature
discharge of his gun.
While awaiting the return of the Esquimaux we re-
paired our boat and the foresail which liad been dam-
aj^ed in the late o-alo. The w^eather at Niantilic on
tlie nights of the 10th and 11th was described as ter-
rific. The vessels Alert and Polar Stir drasrcr^^d their
anchors, althous^h thev held them down with a bun-
dred fathoms of chain out. Old Tes-e-wane said it
was the strongest wind he had ever seen in his life.
On the 14th the Scotch Itark Vcrscvc.r((nce arrived
NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF.
25
Liglit north and west winds and snow-squalls prevail.
All hands were activ^ely employed preparing boats for
whaling. At the earnest solicitation of Mr. Sherman,
we put up a tent on what we call "Arctic Island," so
that he would be able to take scientific observations,
which he was most eager to do. We had rain and we
had snow ; then hail, arid occasionallv sunshine. Mr.
Kumlein employed his time shooting birds and col lect-
ins: other matei'ial on the sliores and alonsj the shore
at low water. September was drawing to a close, and
no natives yet.
September 27. — Some of the Esquimaux arrived
yesterday evening, but Avent directly to the Scotch
ships, the master having engaged them previous to
their starting on the hunting expedition. This morning,
after breakfast, we were surprised at seeing a nund)er
of boats tilled with Esquimaux, men, women, and chil-
dren, with a scoodl V mixture of doj^s, rotten skins, rotten
fish, &c., coming toward the scliooner. They were soon
alouicside and over the rail on deck. What a motley-
looking set! Their skins were strangely spotted, but
with what it was difHcult to deteiMnine; probably grease
and dirt. Here and there we could see, through the
dirt and grease, or between the spots, their dark-brown
skins. Manv of them had sore eves, and all were very
dirty. They had been ofl' in the mountains for two
months, and had had no opportunity to wash. Soap
26
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
is not manufactured among the Esquimaux, so that
those who are not convenient to the shipping stations
come into the world and sjo out of it without knowiiifi:
the luxury of a wash ! They had come on board to pay
me a compUmentary visit, so it was necessary to enter-
tain them. The cabin was soon crowded, and not only
the cabin, but the cabin steps, the companion-way, and
the after-part of the deck, — all apparently eager to get
one word or look from an old acquaintance, or mayhap
to get a little fire-water or a piece of tobacco. Some
of them I knew years ago, in 1851 and 1852, the first
time white men ever ventured to winter in Cumberland
Gulf They were old men and old women now, and
there are onlv a i'ew of them left. Manv of my old
acquaintances had gone to the happy hunting-grounds,
where the deer and seals are more plentiful and the
weather not so cold. They all appeared happy to see me
once more among them ; but it soon became unpleas-
ant, to me, at least. What witb the sci-eechino: of vouns*
ones which many of the women had in their hoods on
their backs, the barking and howling of their dogs in
the boats alongside, and the continued clatter of the
tongues of all, — men, women, and half-grown chil-
dren, — I concluded to get rid of them as soon as possi-
ble. So, hauling out the bottle, I gave each a dram,
and then sent him or her on deck to make room for
the others, who were eager to get below. It took sev-
eral hours to get rid of them, but before doing so I
NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF.
27
purchased some skins and obtained the promise of
more; but it was very evident to me that fhe Scotch
whaler had got nearly their whole stock.
%
*
On the 29th two more boats arrived. One went
directly to the Scotchmen ; the other came alongside
the schooner. I looked over the side to see if it
was anybody I knr-y, and beheld Tyson. This nuist
not startle the reader. I will explain " after a t\me.
And there was Mrs. Tvson, too, as beautiful and as
dirty as ever. And there were also two little'Tysons, —
not genuine, though, but adopted. This Tyson is
about forty-live or forty-eight years of age. When
the ships first commenced t ^ winter in the gulf, some
twenty-live years ago, the captains who hired the Es-
quimaux—and they all did so— finding it diihcult to
recollect their native cognomens, would give them
English nameg; as, Tom, Charley, Dick, or Harry,
and others, again, which were not quite so eu[»honious
to the ear. This youngster, whose real name was Nep-
e-ken, was baptized Tyson; I know not for what
reason, unless it was because he was so handsome!
He is a great hunter,— the Nimrod of the gulf; and
he is also considered a good whaleman, and American
ships coming here for that purpose endeavor to secure
his services. Ills wife, too, is good with the rifle and
the spear. She will kill her deer, catch her seal, or
face the polar bear. Nep-e-ken came on board, and
28
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
(.
I soon miide arrangements with him to stop with me
throngli the winter. Of course his boat's-crew will do
as he tells them. From these natives I got some more
skins and made preparations to start for the head of
the gulf. The natives are to go with me. We got
under way on the mornino; of the 1st of October. It
was calm in the harbor, but I expected to get a breeze
outside, ruttinsc the natives' boat ahead to tow while
we were securing the anchors, we were soon outside
tlie point of Niantihc Island, when we caught a nice
breeze from the south-east which carried the schooner
along six or seven knots an hour. It was my inten-
tion to cross the gulf to the Kickerton Islands, to
deliver three boxes sent to Captain John Roach, of
the schooner Helen F., at Kickerton station, but the
Helen F. was gone. The fall before, after getting
snugly stored into winter quarters, as the captain
thought, there came a gale of wind from the south-
east, with snow, which lasted several days, and before
it al)ated it carried the harbor ice T)ut, and with it the
schooner, but not the anchors or the chains, which
were left behind on the bottom, the latter having
parted. The vessel drifted up and down the gulf sev-
eral days, and her captain was finally compelled to
run her on the rocks to save life. He was verv ^lad
to have an opportunity to do that, as it was in Novem-
ber, d one strong northwester would have decided
his fa ind that of all hands.
If»»*w^
(>
NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF.
29
♦
.,
Our lair wind from the south did not last long. We
soon had snow, and then the wind hauled to the north,
right ahead. This was not very pleasant, as I had
hoped to reach Kickerton Islands and he sheltered hy
their friendly harbor by night. The schooner was
very deep, her decks being scarcely above the water.
We had an extra cargo on board, consisting of Esqui-
maux, men, women, and children, and all their house-
hold goods, including sleighs, dogs, and a whale-boat
which had been given to Nep-e-ken for his services
on board the American brig IsahcUa, Captain Keeny,
the previous year.
As the wind increased the sea rose slightly, but it
was not heavy. The schooner sat so deep, however,
that considerable water washed across her decks. An
Esquimaux has a horror of water. He thinks it should
only be used for drinking purposes. So to escape from
the water, which was by no means pleasant to feel on
the legs or running down the back, as it was nearly as
cold as ice, some w6nt to the forecastle among the men,
and others took possession of the cabin. In fact, upon
o-oins" below I found one old woman — at least sixty,
and cross-eyed— in my berth. I let her remain there
and sought quarters elsewhere.
We did not get to the promised harbor that night,
as I have before intimated, but kept beating to wind-
ward, in the hope of getting in the next morning. It
was very dark, and we had a good strong breeze, which
30
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
brought US down to reefed sails. In the morning we
were to windward of and close to the harbor, and
shortly after came to an anchorao;e abreast of the
houses that comprise the station — one Scotch and
the otlier American, the latter belonging to Messrs.
Williams k Haven, of Xew London, Conn. We had
scarcely let go the anchor when Captain Roach and
Captain Hall were on board, I delivered the three
boxes to Captain Roach. They were sent out by Mr.
Williams, and their contents proved to be ammuni-
tion, which was very much needed. I was now free to
go north to the head of the gulf, which was my inten-
tion when leaving Niantilic Harbor. It would not do
for me to winter among so many ships the masters of
which knew the object I had in view, and as they wish-
ed to retain the Esquimaux in the gulf to assist them
in their whaling expeditions, they would use all their
influence to prevent them from joining me in the pro-
posed migration to the East Land.
There was another reason for my proceeding north:
I hoped to get more skins at the head of the gulf than
could be obtained below.
It would debar me from spring whaling, but I was
after something besides whales. I took the precau-
tion to leave a large quantity of "trade" with Tes-e-
wane at Xiantihc, he promising to purchase all the
skins he could. We remained at the Kickerton Isl-
ands awaiting an opportunity to run up to the head
"
NEW LONDON TO CUMBERLAND GULF.
81
of the gulf — 01* the "Annanatook Harbor," iis the
Esqaimaiix call it — until the 7th of October.
Previous to this we had chieliy north and north-west
winds, with snow. On the morning of the 7th the wind
was south-east, and it was quite clear.
The south-east wind is almost sure to brini^ snow
with it; but it is only sixty miles to Annanatook, and
I hoped to get there before the storm. Therefore, as
soon as breakfast was over we get under way, leaving
Kickerton at nine o'clock. On getting clear of the
harbor, the breeze was found quite strong. We were
makinor s-ood headwav, runninij; otf before the wind
with all sails set. As we got further along the wind
increased. There was a harbor under mv lee, and at
the rate we were sroincr — ten or eleven knots — we
must soon be there.
We had the same cargo on board, and had we been
compelled to luff to I fear the Esquimaux would have
lost most of their household goods; but fortunately
this was not necessary. The little schooner bounded
over the water with great rapidity, and soon the har-
bor was in sight. The shores at the head of the gulf
are quite low, with many outlying reefs and islands,
and over these the sea was breaking with fearful force,
sending spray high into the air.
Such was the motion of the waters, that it was some
time before I could make out the entrance to the har-
bor.
/
•32
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
We took in all of our light wails as we drew close to
the entrance, and, keeping the schooner oft' a little to
clear a point of rocks which projected from the island
under which I intended to anclior, Intied close around
under the land, and was in smooth water. We let
go the anchor in twelve fathoms, and were as coni-
fortahle as we could be. We made the distance from
the Kickerton Islands to Annanatook in six hours.
^INTER IN pUMBERLAND pULF.
October 8. — We are now jincliored in Aniuinjitook
Harbor, where I intend to winter if (rod spares my lite.
There we ibnnd three families of Esquimaux : 0-ea-
ter and wife; Kuck-oo-jug and wife, and two children ;
Eg-e-low, single, (wife dead,) and one son ; Inue-mar-
ket, married to Xep-e-ken's sister, and the venerable
Metek, whom I had nearly forgotten. Metek is Esqui-
maux for "esTir." The old man must be well along
in years. Twenty-six years ago he was an old man,
and vet I can see but little chanii:e in him.
We soon cleared the decks of all tlie rubbisli, Esqui-
maux and all. This place has been, and is yet suppos-
ed to be, an excellent one for whaling in the fall season ;
but few sliips stay here late in the year for fear of be-
ing frozen in and thus losing their spring whaling, as
the water would then probably be sixty or eighty miles
below them.
A lookout has been placed on the island. The men
performing this service are furnished a spy-glass, and
are relieved every two hours. We have also located
Mr. Sherman on shore again, and now I hope he will
be able to continue his meteorological observations
without further interruption.
8
84
THE CRUrSK OF THE FLORENCE.
On Fridiiv, October 12, tlie Scotch bark Pcrserenmee
came in anVl anchored, having seen no whaU^s at Ni-
antilic. The other two vessels are still at Niantilic.
The Persc.rmmcc re[)orts that a large steamer, that liad
been north whaling in Pavis's Straits, came into the
harbor a few days aijo, l)ut did not intend to stav lonj;,
and was bound home to Scotland. Captain Birnie, of
the Poldr Star, will send mv letters bv her.
AVe have had some snow, but none of any conse-
quence; some good strong wind, but no heavy gales.
They are ha\'ing different w^eather below — more gales
and more snoAV.
On the 15th of October Captain Koach arrived witli
two boats'-crews, looking for whale. His other crews
were left encamped near American lTarl)or, about
thirty miles from here in an easterly direction. Tie
staid with me two days and then left to join his other
boats.
On the 18th, Captain Brown, of the Perseverance, got
his vessel under way and left us for NianiUlc, so we are
now alone in our winter quarters. The Esquimaux
report having seen smoke in the direction of American
IIarl)or. I suppose it to be Murray, with the Wind-
ward.
On the 22d wt were visited by three of Murray's
boats from American Harbor. They were all looking
at Ni-
luitilic.
lilt luul
ito tho
IV long,
Irnle, of
%_
y conse
-y gales.
)re gales
ved with
ler crews
or, about
tion. He
his other
erancc, got
, so we are
j^squimaux
American
the Wind'
f Murray's
all looking
WINTLK IN CUMIiKRLAND (JULF.
:],"i
I
eagerly for whale, hut liad seon none. They reported
that Captain Roach's boats, in his absence, got a huge
whale; also that Captain AVat:^on, of the brig yl/^'^^
lying at Niantilic, had captured one. Captain Hall,
from the Kickerton Islands, has also been here with
three boats.
The lookout on the island signalled a whale on the
24th. The boats were instantly out, l)ut it was not
seen accain. Every day when the weatlier would
permit the natives were otf sealing, and at the same
time looking for whale, but up to this date in vain.
I should noL care so much about not seeing or not
srettinoc wbales,— -althouorh I should like to ncet enouii'h
to pay expenses, — if we could do anything else at this
season of the year. This is the dry season. The na-
tives have given up hunting deer and are returning to
the sea-side preparatory to entering upon their winter
campaign against the seals. The women are idle.
They will not work on deer-skins until the ice makes;
but thev will work on seal-skins. Like all uncivil-
ized people, they are very superstitious, and they fear
if they work on deer-skins (took-too) out of the proper
season they or their friends will be unfortunate, per-
haps die; so one must wait until the ice makes solid
before they will consent to make a suit of clothes,
thouofh one be sufieriui? for them.
Nep-e-ken ttnd Kuck-oo-jug are off every day with
30
THE CRUISE OF THE FLOREXCE,
the boats. Xep-e-kcn's boat is prepared for whaling.
Kuck-oo-jiig, wlioMi I have not employed, goes in his
own boat. It is rather an old one, to be sure, but
it will do for sealing. They generally keep within
sij^dit of one another, so that if Nep-e-ken should see
whales and strike them Kuck-oo-jug could render him
assistance. They carrv their rifles with them, so that
if thev see no whales thev can auuise themselves shoot-
ing seals, and they generally bring in two or three of
the latter to the schooner in the evening. My own
men I seldom send off. Indeed, I will not unless thev
signal from the shore that a whale is in sight. My
men are as yet too poorly clad to remain a long time
in the boats in such cold weather as now prevails.
The Esquiiuaux tell me that last fall there were plenty
of whales within ritie-shot of where the schooner now
lies. In fact, I know that nearly every fall the whales
have been here in abundance.
It may be that they have met feed lower down the
gulf and have stopped there.
On the 29th of October j'Tep-e-ken came to me and
requested me to get the Esquimaux to " ankoot " for
whale, saying if I would do so, and pay the ankoot,
tli<^v would ascertain whether we were to ijet a whale
or not. Of course I knew that the Esquinumx believ-
ed in their ankoot as implicitly as we believe in our
doctors, or those who expound the Bible to us; and
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
37
I humored theh. accordingly. Xep-e-ken delicately
hinted to me that as a preliminary to this grand calling
up of spirits from the vasty deep it would he necessary
for me to furnish them with some spirits to pour down
their own capacious and well-lined throats. At this I
did not demur, but gave them the " needful," and all
was made ready to summon the supernatural that
evening. I did not go on shore to witness the sum-
moning, as the spirits become otfended if an unbe-
liever he present, but of course was anxious as to the
results. Ivuck-oo-jug was to l)e the ankoot. They
kept it up till early morning, and at breakfast I learn-
ed the result. We were to get a whale, but the spirits
would not inform Ivuck-oo-jug whether it would be
this fall or next spring. I made him a present of a
larire kn're. He smiled, and, examining the knife,
turned to Nep-e-ken and said to him, in Esquimaux :
*< Now we will have a whale."
On the last day of October, although it was late in
the season and dnngerous to he out at tliat time in the
year, we weighed anchor early in the morning, with
the native boats' -crews aboard, some of them with
ankoot charnip hanging al-out their persons, and stood
out in the gulf looking for whale ; hut we looked in
vain. In the afternoon, the wind blowing strong in
the north-east, we reached the harbor just at dark. The
days are very short now.
a§
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCT^.
The natives still prosecute sealing every favorable
day. They shot one oog-jook, good for boots.
On the 7th of Xo venil )er ^ ei )-e-ken an d Kiick-oo-i u^'-
were ofi; as usual. Kuck-oo-jug soon returned and
informed me that he had seen a whale; that it was
close to his boat, but he had no line, nor was he pi'e-
pared in any ^^'ay ibr whaling. I had not hired him,
as I was afraid the stores would not permit me to feed
so many Esquimaux through the winter. I asked
^^here Xep-e-ken was, and learned that he could «oe
his boat when he started for the schooner, but did
not know wliether he saw the whale or not. The
lookout had seen nothing from the hill.
The wliales are here, but it is very late. The ice
wdl soon form, as it seldom remains open as late as
the 7th of November. It is now forming near the
sliores, and it will take but one night of caim weather
to cover the whole gulf with it. The lookout signal-
led that a boat was coming. It proved to be Nep-e-
ken, and he was soon alongside. The first words he
'itteredwere, "Ogbig! ogbig! Assejiwouk! asseawo-
uk!" Which means, '' W^hale ! whale! Lost! lost!"
He had seen a whale and struck it. It was a laro:e
nne. The whale took some twenty-five fathoms of
Hue, and then tlie line parted. TlVis was bad news,'
yet it niiglit have l)een worse.
It was a daring act to strike a whale all alone and
1
rorable
-00-1 11 (j:
3(1 and
it was
be prc-
1 biDi,
to feed
asked
Id «ee
ut did
The
he ice
ate as
dv the
Gather
iigiial-
S^ep-e-
ds lie
eawo-
[ost I "
hn'ofe
ins of
news,
) and
WINTER I>: CUMBERLAND (UILF.
at this time of the year. The days are short, and it
was then growing dark, so I made preparations to send
two boats off in the morning. For this purpose all the
skin-clothing was collected and given to three men of
the forecastle, who were to make up the complement
of two boats'-crews with the Esquimaux, who were not
numerous enough to man two boats. They were pro-
visioned for two or three days, although I scarcely
thought they would be gone over night. Kuck-oo-jug
was to take the natives' boat, while Nep-e-ken was to
use his own.
They were off at daybreak. The weather was fine,
but cold, with a good breeze from the north. When
some six miles off" they were seen to take in their sails.
They had either seen or struck a whale. Shortly after-
wards they disappeared from sight.
The day passed awav and niu'ht came on. It was
cold, and the wind blew from tlie north. They did
not come.
On the morning of the 9th the horizon was eagerly
FC'umed for the boats. "No boats in sight!" All
tl) ii day a sharp lookout was kept, but no boats ap-
pcHicd.' Niglit came. The thermometer registered
minus 1G°. Tlie wind blew heavily from the north-
west,
The morning of the 10th was very cold, but there
was not so mucli wind. 11ie harbor was frozen over
40
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
and some of the Esquimaux children came to the
schooner upon the ice.
The squaws and children were very anxious ahout
their husbands and relatives. We could see but little
to-dav. Althoudi the water is frozen in the harbor,
it is open outside. As fast as the ice forms it is car-
ried away by the w^ind and currents. The steam or
frost arising from the water forms a dense fog. No
boats. Nisrht came, cold and cheerless 'for those adrift
in the boats, who must, by thi ''^^-e, be out of provis-
ions. It seems certain that thcA ;ve struck a whale,
and the wind being strong from the nortli-w^est, they
have had to go before it, and will bring up some thirty
or forty miles down the gulf, — probably at American
Harbor.
November 11. — No boats. It is verv cold. The
wind is from the north. The gulf is still open outside
of the harbor, but that frost-smoke which shuts out
all view beyond a few yards prevails. The schooner
is in some danger, the wind being strong. ' I fear the
ice in the harbor will move and carry her outside
with it.
%
November 12. — ^No boats. The weather continues
about the same, — cold, and a breeze not very stro ig,
and plenty of frost-smoke. The women and children
are crettms: almost inconsolable over the loss of their
I
WINTER IN CUMBEULAND GUTt'.
41
t
«
husbands, Mbers, and relatives. God grant them a
sate return, is my earnest prayer. About 3.30 p. m.,
as I was sitting in the cabin, smoking a pipe and wish-
ing the lost or absent ones back safe and sound, we
were all startled by a hail alongside. Springing on
deck, I discovered the boats. They were some dis-
tance astern, to be sure, but they were safe. They
could not get nearer on account of the ice. A Ihie
was soon conveyed to them, and by hauling on it from
the schooner, the natives lifting the heads of the boats
at times when they broke through the young ice, we
soon had them alongside and hoisted them aboard.
They were sorry-looking boats, almost entirely covered
with ice, and considerably battered; and the same can
be said of their crews. The oars were three times
their ordinary thickness, though the ice was frequently
beaten from them. It was no time to ask questions.
I wanted to see how my three men were. They could
scarcely stand, and all staggered as they gained the
deck, on being helped out of the boat. Several of the
Esquimaux were but little better oiF, and reeled like
drunken men around the deck.
William Albion and Richard York had but little
feeling in their fingers. A hole was soon cut through
the ice, and some cold sea-water drawn in a deck
bucket. In this their hands were immersed, and there
kept till feeling was restored.
But not so with Lee. He had unfortunately got
42
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
i
one of his legs, and coiiseqiieiitly his foot, wet, even
through his. skin nioecasin. This had occurred three
davs hefore. He could not sjet his foot warm after-
wards, he said, and finally ceased to have feeling in it.
I concluded that his case was a serious one, and would
not let him cro near tlie tire. Drawinoj a bucket of
cold water, his foot was plunged in it, after cutting off
his moccasin, which could not be pulled off. Leg,
stocking, and moccasin were apparently frozen to-
gether. On immersing his foot in the w^ater it became
incrusted with ice, which was the result of the frost
coming out of the flesh. After awhile the ice was
gently removed from the foot, but the frozen member
was still kept in tlie water and rubbed until circulation
was restored. It took all of an hour to soften the
flesh". This being accomplished, the foot was wrapped
up to protect it from the cold. The man was then
given a glass of spirits and sent Lelow.
Tt was now the turn of the Esquimaux to be looked
'after. Thev needed little care, however. Thev were
very tired, very hungry, and very thirsty. They drank
water l)y the quart, and then they wanted something
stronger, which was given them. Then they had some-
thing to eat, and while they were eating I gathered
from thorn information concerning their cruise. On
leaving the schooner they steered in the direction of
American Harbor. When about six miles from the
vessel they saw several whales. Thev then took in
I
. WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
43
.1
tlicir sails, as it was l)lovving a strong breeze, so that
tliev could manoeuvre for the whale with a better
chance of success. The whales had two risings, but
were struck neilher time. On tlie tliird rising Kuck-
ooins: "rot fast. The whale sounded, and on coming
to the surface, it being very rough, Xep-e-keii ftxded
to kill him. The whale now started to I'un south and
carried them a long distance before Nep-e-ken was
enabled to kill him. It was then almost dark, and
some of the Esquimaux were desirous of letting the
whale go and of returning to the schooner; but Nep-e-
ken would not consent to this. lie said, "The whale
must and shall be saved, if we have to tow him to
Kickerton Island," a distance of some sixt}' miles from
the schooner and about forty from wliere they then
were.
By the time it was dark tliey had the wliale's thdces
cut off and were ready to tow. The whale died on its
side, which made it very hard towing. It would have
been much better to have towed him by the head, '
could thevhave o'ot hold of it; but the head was deep
in the water, and the sea was very rough and the wind
blowing strong. They towed all night. Once they
parted from the whale. It was very dark, and tliey
had considerable difficulty in finding him again.
The morninir of the 9th of November found them
about ten miles below American IIarl)or and about
44
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
forty from the schooner. They were not far from the
land, and the wind and the sea were driving them di-
rectly towards it.
They soon reached land, and were fortunate in
finding a little Ijay, sheltered from the sea, into which
they towed the whale. Nep-e-ken was determined
to secure the whale; so, instead of starting for the
schooner, he waited until the tide rose so that he could
haul the prize high upon the heach. The tides on the
full and change of the moon were ahout t^venty-two
feet at this time, and about eighteen feot at high water.
They hauled the whale as far upon the beach as they
could, and in assisting at this young Lee slipped over-
board fi'om a rock, fortunately, however, getting only
one leg wet.
It was now quite dark, and, as there was consider-
able young ice drifting in the gulf, they dared not start
for the 3chooner until daylight. Thev had no water.
Their proyisions were consumed, and their condition
• was anything but enviable. They appeased their hun-
ger by eating black-skin cut from the whale, but it was
some time before the white men could be prevailed
upon to submit to this diet. Some blubber was also
cut from the whale and beaten into a jelly-like mass,
and, having a small piece of cotton canvas, they
picked it to pieces for wicking and then saturated it
with oil from the blubljer. Setting fire to this mass
on the snow, they soon had the water runnins^. Each
n
WINTEll IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
45
4
man in turn "knelt down on the snow and drank the
ffreasv liuid; and thus was the thirst of the party,
which had hegun to he ahnost intolerahle, quenched
for a time. The natives hiid down for a sleep, hut the
white men coukl not sleep on the snow^ at first. When
they did get drowsy Nep-e-ken permitted them'to rest
only a short time, and then started them up; nor
would he allow them to lie down again, during the
niffht, more than ten minutes at a time.
On the morning of the 10th of Novemher the wind
was hlowing heavily from the north-west. The hoats
would, therefore, have head -winds to contend with
had they started. They did not make the attempt.
More black-skin was cut and eaten, and water was
prepared for drinking purposes as on the night pre-
vious.
The weather was more favorable on the 11th, and
the party started for the scliooner, but experienced
great difiiculty in keeping clear of the young and drift-
ino- ice. Night overtook th.em before they reached
their destination, and they landed on a small island,
where they suffered much from hunger, thirst, and
cold. At daybreak they started again. They could
not see for the frost fog, but managed to reach tlie
schooner just before dark. •
Through the month of November, or what remained
46
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
of the month, there was hut little change in the wea-
ther. The ice made slowly and we had considerable
snow, which covered and protected the ice in the har-
l)or. The sea was still oi)en ontside.
The Esqnhnaiix, having recruited strength and over-
come the fatigues of their expedition, went out seal-
ing among the islands, where the ice had formed, but
with inditferent success. Mr. Ivumlein ventured out
on the ice once with a boat-hook, and fell or broke
throngli, but he escaped with a good Wj3tting.
Some few ducks lingered still, loath to leave. Some
of them were sliot, and a few gulls were also captured.
Mr. Sherman was zealously employed in his scientitic
ol)servations on shore.
He has a irood-sized canvas tent, with a stove in it.
As soon as the snow is in a condition to cut into ])l()cks
the tent will be covered with a snow iglau, which will
make it quite comfortable.
December 1. — Ice formed out in the gulf, as far
as the eve can reach, in a sino'le niii:ht! Some of the
natives ventured out on the newly-formed ice look-
m^j: for seal.
Upon exair.ining Xep-e-ken's boat I found that it
was almost ruined. The cop[>er sheatlnng was entirel}'
torn off, her planking nearly cut through, and her two
after-th^varts s[)lit and s[)lintered badly.
WINTER IN rUMr.EHLAND GULF.
47
On the 6th of Deccmher, the ice.bjin<2: in a ijood
coiiditioii, I was deteniiined to sjet the l)one troni the
head of the whale captured hy tlie natives, and con-
sulted Nep-e-ken. Ife was ready in a moment. The
natives were called and the dogs harnessed ; tackle,
provisions, spades and axes to cut with, and finally
rum, were made ready for the expedition, — and tliey
were oii' with a liurrah ! It will be no easv task, I
know. Ice has covered the whale bv this time, and,
as it lies in the shore ice, they will have to expend
much labor in getting to it. The up[ter surface of the
whale will be frozen verv hard. But it is vvorth the
trial. It is a large cow-whale, and there are, [)robably,
two thousand pounds of l)one in its head. If it could
have been l)rought alongside of the schooner, about
one hundred and fortv barrels of oil could have been
extracted from the blubber.
Evervthiniz: went aloiiij; as usual until the 9th, when
a sleigh was reported coming from the south. I con-
cluded it was some of our natives returnino; fi'om
the expedition to the whale. Mr. Burrows, the second
olficer, who is of a very inquisitive turn of mind,
started oft' to meet the sled, which was not verv far
away. He had gone about two hundred yards when
he came to a crack runninii^ from the sir.:.!' island
astern of the schooner to an island Ivins; some six
hundred yards to the north. Not being troubled with
an overplus of caution, he did not notice that the tides
mmmm
48
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
hud opeiiec! tiic crack and that yonng ice had formed
in it. Jle stepped upon it, and down he went up to
his anni)its. His situation v/as both dangerous and
comical. IJis kigubrious looks, as thougli lie was
desirous of assistance, yet ashamed to ask for it, I
never sliali forget. He finally got out without help.
He came on board all in a lump, with his arms
akind)o, changed his clothes, and concluded he was
the hero of the season.
The sleigh contained Inue-mar-ket and Shu-mar-
ker. The latter had cut his head very badly witli a
spade — a blubber spade. These spades are as sharp as
a razor. Mr. Sisson washed and dressed the wound
and put a few stitches in it.
The Esquimaux report Xep-e-ken and his men at
work on the whale. They have one side of the head
out, and will get the other out to-day. They want a
little more bread and considerabl}' more rum, as their
supplies are running short. Those articles were got
ready, and Inue-mar-ket (whom we called Jonah)
will start earlv in the mornins; for the whale, leavinsr
Shu-mar-ker behind. I should not be surprised to
hear that the latter had been playing loose with Nep-
e-ken's rum. He is excessively fond of spirits.
"
On the lltli the Esquimaux all returned, bringing
with them a considerable quantity of the bone. They
had got it all out of the whale's head and stored it on
WINTER IN CUMIJEIILAND GULF.
49
the rocks. I want to secure the rest as soon as pos-
sible. I Imve arranged with Nep-e-ken al)ont going to
Molly Kater-nnna to trade for skins, and also to l)ring
two teams of dogs to assist in getting the ])one to the
schooner. We have but few dogs. Many have died
this fall from a disease resend)ling hydrophobia. He
will start in the morninu;. Just before dark two sleighs
were seen coming from the eastward. The weather is
quite thick, with occasional snow-falls.
The sleighs arrived and were soon alongside the
schooner, and proved to be in cliarge of Roach and
Hall, from Kickerton Island. They had started two
days previous, and slept one night on the ice. They
were going to Niantilic to spend the holidays with
the Scotchmen. Xot being able to cross the gulf
direct, which would have been much the shorter route,
on account of water, they are taking the circuit around
its head.
We soon gave them a substuiiial supper, and ihey
were made as comfortable as possible. They are very
desirous that I shall accompany them.- I do not feel
like going. It is a poor time of the year to travel, the
days being short and the ice, in many places between
the island and the shore, where the current runs strong,
being scarcel}' safe.
3!)ecember 13. — Xep-e-ken started early this morning
for Molly Kater-nuna. Captain Hall and Mr. Kundein
4
50
THE CRUISE OF THE FLOREXCE.
uro off sealinc:, and Captain Roach and myself amuse
ourselves as best we can. lie related a little adven-
ture he had at Kickerton. Just as the ice made this
fall a large she-l^ear, with two cubs, made her appear-
ance on the island. Eoach's nati /es got sight of her,
and were cm the alert to shoot l:er. So was lioach,
who, in his eagerness to get a good shot, got too near.
Both the cubs were wounded and could not keep
up with the niother. She stood at bay and received
several bullets, but none brouf!:ht her down. She
finally sighted Roach, and, rushing toward him, she
I'eared on her hind legs and placed her fore paws on
his shoulders and bore him down. Then the dogs
were at her hind parts, and she released Koach from
her grasp to attack them. Koach, thus relieved, re-
gained his feet; but she was loafh to leave him, and
turned on him with more fierceness than before. lie
was again borne down, but the infuriated beast was so
iiarassed by the men and dogs that she turned and
beat a precipitate retreat, recei ing several shots as she
ran. The cubs were captured, and the mother was
next tfay found dead on a distant part of the island.
I have concluded to accompany Koacli and llall on
their trip to Niantilic. AYe start to-morrow. Captain
Hall and Mr. Xumlein n^turned to-dav from sealinir.
Thev had no luck.
%
i
t
I
On the morning of the 14th we were oti' at daybreak.
.ijlM.liLi^iiX..
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
51
It was blowing quite heiivily, and the snow was drift-
ing very badly. I started on foot, as the sleigh was not
quite ready; but I had noi gone very far before Cap-
tain Hall overtook me, and I got on his sleigh. It ap-
pears that Roach had some ditheulty in finding his dogs,
which dehiyed him. We had gone ten miles, perha[is.
when we found it necessary to clean the doij^s' liarnet^s.
There was yet no si<rn of Roach. I was not very well
clad, having on only a single suit of deer-skin, while
the others had double suits. The wind was now blow-
ins: ^^*-'^^y -tronsf, and snow, to a heisrht of eisrht or ten
feet al)ove ihe ice, was flying so thick and with so
much violence that we could scarcely see the don's
twentv feet ahead of us.
While the Esquimaux were cleaning th(^ harness —
they both had Esquimaux drivers — I concluded to walk
ahead, expecting, of course, that the sleigh would fol-
low me in a few minutes. I kept on for some time,
when suddenlv it occurred to me that the sleiirh oujz-ht
to be up with me. I looked back, but could see noth-
ing; the snow was (h'ifting too thick for that. I walk-
ed on again, thinking the sleigh nmst be near, and I
continued walking slowly about an hour longer, and
then l)egan to get alarmed. I knew I had kept in the
ric^ht direction, havinii; the wind and the heavens to
U'uide me.
Certainly the sleigh could not have passed me!
I started back on my track to see what occasioneii
52
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
the delay, but went with very little hope of finding it.
I kept the trail for twenty or more minutes, and then
lost it.
The drifting snow had covered it completely. I was
in a rather avvkward dilemma, hut there was no alter-
native but to wait till the snow ceased to drift, so tliat
I could see land, wliich could be reached l)y going
in the direction from which the wind came. I con-
tinued walking about half an hour, when suddenly I
discovered a dark ol)ject through the di'ifting snow.
It disappeared almost immediately from sight. Soon
after I saw it again, and it again vanished ; again it
appeared aiid vanished; but I was walking toward it.
A moment more and I saw two dark spots on the ice.
1 was soon up with the objects of my curiosit}', which
proved to be Roach and llall.
They were as surprised to see me as I was to see them.
Hall, on cleaning his harness, did not start, but
waited for Koach to come up.
Roach had been delayed by his dogs, and it was
some time before he came. He had great dilHculty
in seeing and keeping Hall's sled tracks, as they were
almost obliterated l)y the dril'ting snow when he pass-
ed over them. He had at one time almost resolved
to turn back, but he kept on. Upon his arrival he
Avas astonished and alarmed to le'irn that I had gone
on ahead. He instantly looked for my tracks near
the sleighs, but could not find them.
WINTER IN CUxMBERLAND GULF.
53
Roach was an old, experienced traveller, and he
knew my peril. Both men immediately set abont
finding my trail. Their sleighs were driven north
and then south, makins: an an2:le at every turn. They
lioped by that means to cross my track, and by fol-
lowing it overtake me. That was what they were do-
ing when I discovered them.
We stopped to refresh ourselves with a piece of froz-
en pork and biscuit, washed down with a little diluted
rum, and then continued on our way toward Molly
Kater-nuna. "We could not see to guide the dogs, but
went by the wind, which was to the northward, and
kept it on our l)acks. •
The sun went down about 2 o'clock p.m., and short-
ly after the wind died away. We I'ound ourselves too
far ofl' shore, and had to haul up some four or five
points for our place of destination Night came on,
and we were still far from Mo11\' Kater-nuna; but the
atmosphere was clear, and we ... ^ the moon to guide
us with her friendly lii2:ht.
*/ CD
We had not proceeded far, after this, h fore wt met
with a disagreeable mishap. We were going l)etweeu
some islands, about seven miles from a settlement of
Esquimaux, when suddenly down went the sleigh that I
was on. I was half asleep, and was naturally S( )mewhat
startled. I came near jumping in the water, ' saw
the situation in time to save myself from a cold bath.
The after-part of the sleigh w'as partly submerged.
II
:i • !
' i:
54
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
iind Koach's driver, a young Esquimaux, went in the
water up to his armpits.
I threw myself forward as the sleigh went down,
and Lay for a moment with my feet dangling in the
water. The sled was heavily laden with a trunk con-
taining provisions, sleeping bags, deer-skins, and many
articles useful in this kind of travel.
The load was tilled up to a height of three feet, and
on the top of this we sat, when we rode.
Roach, who was driving, was sitting on the forward
end of the sled, which was still resting on the ice as
its rear went down. The dogs stopped short upon the
breakinof of the ice, but it was onlv for a moment.
Koach uttered a terrific yell, and, with a flourish of
the whip, made them bound forward and draw the
sled — with Roach, myself, and the young Esquimaux
clinging to it — ^on safer ice, and there we halted.
Hall, who was in the rear, profited by our experience,
and avoided the weak spot in the ice.
As soon as we stopped the boy lay down in the
snow and began to roll. This was to dry his clothes;
probably upon the same principle as that on which
a do2j dries himself bv shakinii: when he comes out
of the water. He would roll awhile, then pound his
clothes with the butt of his whip, and repeat this ma-
nauivre until he was satisfied.
"We now refreshed ourselves again with a little froz-
en pork and biscuit and some rum.
I
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF,
55
Affain we moved on. We had o;one about four
miles, and were about three from the settlements just
mentioned, when the ice broke under us a second
time. The accident was not so serious this time, how-
ever, and I escaped with one wet moi^casin and the
boy with two.
We resumed our journe}' after a ])rief stoppage, and
reached the Esquimaux huts at 7.30 p. m. The natives
mustered in force to see who the new-comers were.
Among tliem I found ]N'ep-e-ken. We had not seen his
back-track, and I concluded that he was still at Kater-
nuna. He ttrrived bere on the evening of the same
dav on which he left tlie Florence. He traded for
quite a number of skins, and hired two sleighs, with
drivers, to accompany him back and assist in getting
the bone to the schooner.
All three sleighs started on the morning of the 14th
for the schooner. They had just got clear of the shore
ice, when down went Nep-e-ken's sleigh, and he and
Eg-e-low, who was with him, went with it. The two
natives on the other sleighs assisted them to get out,
and they all returned to the huts, two of them wetter
if not wiser men. Thev were drying their clothes
when we arrived, and they intend to start again in the
morn in ir.
On the morning of the ir)th the weather proved
clear, but very cold, with a light breeze from the
■i
BE«Mft»JJ555S5IS5iftT!^?^
mmmmmmmmmmm
:i
;
■'I
56
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
north-west. I concluded to return with ^ep-e-ken.
The men must l)e provided with provisions for then*
journey, and they n)ust also be paid when through.
Then, too, we had a number of skins, and the squaws
must be put at work cleaning them and making them
into clothing; and it is just about as difficult to get
some of these squuws to work as it is to get some of
their more favored sisters, in more civilized countries,
to do the same thins;.
Tlie sleighs were made ready for our journey, and,
wishing my companions a pleasant trip, we started for
the schooner.
Xep-e-ken's sleigh was heavily laden. It carried,
l>esides himself, Eg-e-low and a load of skins. An-
narkshuk, one of the hired natives, also had a load of
skins; but he had good dogs and a fast sleigh. So on
his sleigh I seated myself as soon as we got clear of
the shore ice. I suppose it was at least 10 o'clock in
the morning, (it is not daybreak until noon,) and it
was now near sunrise.
Avoiding the dangerous places of yesterday's jour-
ney, we went rapidly. The dogs seemed to be in their
best liumor. Upon getting clear of the islands, we
found the ice clear and firm.
The gale of yesterday and the cold snap had done
much to improve it. We took a shorter route than
we traversed on the way up, as the weather was clear
and we could see where we were ffoinor.
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
57
Coming to some holes, kept open l)ythe strong cur-
rents, the natives stopped to get a seal, if possible;
l)nt they did not succeed, and we started on.
Our dogs kept going at a rapid rate until we reach-
ed the schooner, which we did at 2.45 p. m., having
travelled some fortv-iive miles in less than six hours!
Nep-e-ken and tlie other sleigli arrived before we
2:ot throuoch dinner.
On the morning of the 16th the natives were up and
doino- brischt and earlv. Three sleiofhs and three driv-
ers were started for the whale. The other natives
were away sealing.
On the 18th the sleighs returned with three light
loads of bono.
On the 19th thev returned for the remainder, and
got back the same night, when the hired natives were
paid and started for their homes.
We were now settled down to the dull and monoto-
nous life of winter in tlie Arctic regions.
One at home cannot imagine how dull this life is.
Isolated from all the world, we must make a world of
our own ; we must build one in our imaginations, and
picture it with smiling faces; picture to ourselves the
grassy lawn of the new-born spring, the budding of
the trees, — their blossoming and leaving, their luatur-
itv and decav.
r
mmmm
m
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
The old year is dving, " lioary and frosty with age."
How many hopes die with it!
The new vear is comins^. It is here even at this
moment. It is horn! — the yeaf of our Lord 1878!
It comes to us with a smihng face, as if happy at be-
ins^ ushered into Time !
We s[)ent our New-Year as pleasantly as possible
under the circumstances, forgetting for a time at least
that we were in the icv solitudes of the Arctic, fur
isolated fi'om our homes and friends.
The Esqiiimaux are sealing every favorable day,
but they are having poor success.
There is a scarcity of seals this winter. I am told
that List winter thev were plentv.
Lee's foot is in a bad condition. The liesh is gone
entirelv from the heel, leavins: the bone bare. The
flesh is also gone from the side of the foot and the
toes, from one of which latter the bone is protruding.
We keep a poultice on the foot continually, and I hope
to save the frozen member from amputation. The
other two men are all ric^ht.
upon opening some boxes the other day I found
one sent by Colonel Lupton, an intimate friend of
the late Captain Hall. It contained a small flag,
which, as Colonel Lupton w^rites, (for a letter was
also found in the box,) accompanied Doctors Kane
and Hayes, and also Captain Hall, in their perilous ex-
peditions in the Arcti3 seas. There was also a large-
i«ij
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
?j
sized photographic portrait (framed) of Captain Hall.
In this letter the Colonel requests that the flag, which
is now historical, he planted at the northernmost point
of the earth that we are ahle to reach.
The snow lies heavily npon the ice and presses it
down. The water comes up through the pores of the
ice, and between water and snow the travelling could
not be worse. The slush is nearly knee-deep. The
natives are getting no seals, or, at least, but very few ;
and men, women, and children flock to the schooner
for something to eat, which cannot be refused them.
We get all the seal-meat we can for Lee, to prevent
the scurvy from getting in his foot. He is doing very
well, and the foot will be saved.
I have had several conversations with the Esqui-
maux in rejrard to their o^oing with us to the East
Land, as t\v\ always call the coast of (Greenland.
Some say they will go; others fear to go. The latter
are afraid of the "mulling" (sea) in such a little ves-
sel as the Florence. Others, again, have mothers who
do not want them to go; then, again, brothers and
sisters, uncles and aunts and cousins, and I do not
know what else.
Nep-e-ken has promised to go; also Obe-tun, Thu-nu-
ping-nar, Inue-mar-ket, and Al-o-kee, making live in
all. I have also the promise of several at Niantilic;
but lieaven only knows what the spring will bring
forth. If so many vessels were not there, I could
GO
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
handle the natives better. Now I pretend indifference
whether thev i^o or not.
On the 1st of December we commenced on two
nieuls a dav, — breakfast at 9 A. M. ; dinner at 3.30 P.
M. AVe thus save some provision and fuel, the hitter
of whicli is fijettins: low.
i
January passed as all the winter months generally
do in the Arctic. The weather was variable. On
some davs the wind blew stronsc 'iiid snow fell or
drifted, and on others it was clear, but upon all cold.
The time was occupied principally in keeping tbe
snowbank around the ship in good order; cutting a
supply of ice from the fresh water or ice ponds for
cooking and drinking purposes; keeping the squaws
at work when we could get them skins to work on ;
and trying to keep the devil as far from us as possible.
The riiitives have occupied their time, as usual, seal-
ins;
The mates and myself occasionall}' have to clean
our berths. They are directly under the companion-
way, and every time the doors are opened there is a
rush of cold air from above into the cabin, and our
state-rooms being directly under, it centers there and
turns into ice.
The lockers and the drawers are in the same con-
dition. Often, when about to retire, I find the blankets
•">
i
WINTER IX CUMBEllLANT) OX'LF.
Gl
sreiice
ii two
B.30 V.
latter
le rally
. On
fell or
1 cold,
ig the
ttiiisc a
ids for
squaws
rk on;
^ssible.
l1, seal-
) clean
panion-
re is a
nd our
ire and
ne con-
lankets
frozen to the side of the berth, and the Ijooks, papers,
and clothing in a like condition IVoin freezing. Our
kerosene oil is also frozen, and is consequently much
injured.
On the 24th of January the mate of the Hdei) F. '
arrived from Kickerton Ishxnd, bringing Chummy,
( Shu-mar-pi ng-ufer,) who went over to American Har-
bor in one of Murray's boats last fall, on a visit, and
was carried to Niantihc.
The mate informed me that Roach and Hall reached
Niantilic on the fourth day after I left them. He also
informed me that the only whale that had been cap-
tured by any of the four ships wintering at Xiantilic
was that taken by Captain Watson, as already men-
tioned. The three other ships are cknir. He told me
that the ships broke out from their winter quarters in
the tierce November gales and liad a narrow escape,
but finally regained their quarters, Murray, ^^ith his
steamer, assisting them.
The number of whales taken during the fall in the
gulf now amounts 'to five,— "Roach two, Hall one, Wat-
son one, and our crew one ; but all the others have a
chance for spring whaling, and I have none.
I concluded to go back with the mate, as it would
be a break in the monotonous life we were leading,
and prevailed on Fred, the mate; to stop till the iol-
lowino- dav and give his dogs a good rest and feed, so
V)2
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
II i
that they would he m good condition to continue their
iournov.
Fred had been two days coming from Kickerton to
Annanatook Harbor. lie de>:cribed the travelling as.
very bad.
The niornini^: of the 2ntli we had an early start. We
were accompanied by Eg-e-low, who* with live dogs
and a sleigh, was going to the Kickertons for a wife
(nuleangor). Oc-a-took, also with a like number of
doijcs and a sleii^h, was sfoinii; to the whale for dos;-
meat, and would spend a few days sealing at one of
the many holes kept open by the currents even in the
coldest winters. We had scarcely cleared the harbor
when we fell in with the snow. It was about three
feet deep, with water underneath.
The early snow was still there. A thin crust had
formed on the surface, protecting the light snow be-
neath from wind and frost. The surface crust was
not stronc* enouiirh to bear the weisrht of the dos^s
when tliey straightened in their harness to pull.
Fred, who had fifteen dogs but a very heavy sleigh,
had the lead, but he soon became exhausted driving
and urging the dogs along; st) he gave three dogs to
Oc-a-took, and asked him to take the lead with his
eight and small sleigh. This he did, and we went
along somewhat fasfer; but we did not arrive at the
whale, which was on our line of journey, until even-
■ji
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
68
ing. Here we sl'^pt. The dog^ were exliiuisted. Their
feet mid legs were cat by tlie snow crust and were
bleeding at every step. After eating a piece of bis-
cait and frozen pork, we lay down on the ice to sleep.
In the morning we were up by dayl)reak. The dogs
were soon harnessed, and we wore off. We ho[)ed to
reach Kickerton that day, have a good warm suijper,
and something besides ice to sleep on. Eg-e-low, who
was still with us, had a liii-ht sled; so Fred i^-ave
Lim three dogs and he took the lead. Ei):-e-low^ had
now eight dogs, and with his easy-running sleigli he
went along very well, but not fast. Our dogs were,
of course, anxious to keep up with him, and did keep
close to the stern of his sled. At sundown we were
abreast of Ilav-stack Island, twelve miles from Kick-
erton.
This small island resembles a hav-stack in form;
hence its name.
It was. getting dark, and though clear over head
the atmosphere was thick below. We kept on, hoping
to reach the station bv 8 or 9 o'clock that evenino^.
About 5 o'clock in the evenins^ we sisrhted an ishmd
which is called Calle Coi'otes Island. It is a small
one, about three miles from the stati<^>n. We con-
tinued to drive toward the island, but apparently got
no nearer. We kept on in this way until about 8
o'clock, when I told Fred that if it was not, for the
north star, which, we could see, I should think Eg-e-low
CA
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENX'E.
was driving around and ai'ound the island, ibr we were
certainly getting ao nearer to it, but were a[)parently
about the same distance from it that we were three
hours lietbre.
Fred finally called to Eg-e-low to stop, and they both
endeavored to ascertain where we were, which was a
difficult thini^ to do, owinii: to the mist. Fresentlv the
native ejaculated, with a grunt, *'Ivickertojuck! Kick-
ertohu'k ! " '' The hi": ishuid ! The bio; island ! " And
he was ri<»*ht; we were in the entrance to Ivins^nito
Fiord, and the big island Ivickertqjuck stood before
us, with its bold shores reaching an ele^'ation of some
three tliousand feet above our heads. There was noth-
iuii^ to do but to make the best oi' it. We had come
from llay-stack Island to Kickertojuck, a distance of
twelve miles. The same amount of travel in the riii^hl
direction would have carried us to the station. W^e
were now about ten miles north-east of the station.
The })Oor dogs were moaning piteously with pain aiid
fatii>:uo.
Tlie weather, tbouijrh clear in tlie zonitli, was heavv
and thick l)e1ow.
It was necessary to pass another night on the- ice; s:»,
eating a [)iece of bread and [lork, wc drew our deer-skin
jackets (couletangs) about us and composed ourselves
for slee[); at least I did. I was awakened several
times durino; the u\^\\t bv the moaniuii; of the cloi>'s,
and by Fred in the morning, when he was stamping
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
(j^
»> »,
his feet to get them warm and passing some cursory
vemarks npon tlie dogs for eating their harness.
After making necessary repairs to the harness, we
started for the station, and arrived there about 2
o'clock P. M. We were met by the four captains, who
extended a warm greeting to us. Soon we were re-
galed with something to eat, to which we did ample
justice.
I staid at the Kickertons until the 14th of February.
Nothing unusual occurred during my stay, except one
very heavy ijale, which beo'an on the 11th and abated
on the morning of the 13th.
On the morning of the 18th, everything being ready
and the gale having died out, Koach and Fred decided
to go np with me. The dogs were haruessed, the sled
was loaded, and Fred got on the sleigh to drive the
doo-s down over the rough shore ice, which here ex-
tended some four or five hundred yards, the shore
being Hat.
There was a track leading through thi.^ rough ice,
made by the Esquimaux going to and fro from Kicker-
ton Island, some twelve miles to the nortli. The dogs,
being fresh, started otf with a bound. On i.ntering the
rough ice Fred was thrown some ten feet from the sleigh.
The dogs were now their ow'i masters. They did not
stop, but continued on until they brought up at Hay-
stack Island, where they were stopped hy the natives.
I walked back to the lioase with Uv)ach. We were
06
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
scarcely one hundred yards from it when the misliap
occurred. The dogs and sleigh were brought back
that night, and we conckided to make another start in
the morning.
Tlie weather on the morning of the 14th was line,
and we got away early. Roach had all hands out, and
lashino'iTlong oog-jook line to the rear-part of the sleigh,
the men held on^o the line while the sleigh was going
through the rough ice.
Once getting through the shore ice, the dogs were
stopped and the harness was cleaned. Then we seated
ourselves on the sleigh, the dogs were let go, and away
we went ox'er the rough but hard ice ; now on top of
some rough lyiece of ice, and then down with the speed
of lightning on the other side.
Twice the sleigh brought up with such force as to
send us all headlong among the dogs. We continued
throudi this rough ice ten or twelve miles, and were
cono>nitulating ourselves on having good though rough
travelling, when suddenly we struck the deep- snow.
The dogs no longer went on a clean run. They were
breast-deep in the soft snow, and even without a heavy
sleio-h and load it would have been severe pulling for
i^
them.
The poor animals had at least one thousand or twelve
hundred pounds behind them. There were three good-
sized men, weighing in the aggregate at least live hun-
dred pounds ; two large bags of dog-meat, weighmg
¥
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
67
ip
about three hundred ; one chest of provisions, a saw,
knife, two guns, a spear, and two or three pieces of
bear and dog skin, which Latter we intended using
for bedding shouhl we be caught over night ; and then
there was the sleigh, weighing about one hundred
pounds. We had seventeen dogs, and good ones, too,
they were. With good sledding we would have gone
over the ice at the rate of eight or ten miles an hour.
As it was, we were not making more than two. We
went on wading through the snow, how jumping off
the sled to help the dogs, and, getting out of breath,
taking our places again on the sleigh, each taking his
turn at helping the dogs along, until late in the even-
ting, when, both men and animals being thoroughly
tired, we .stopped and unharnessed the dogs, to prevent
them from eating their harness during the night. We
took a few mouchfuls to eat, and, spreading our bear,
and dog skins, we lay down to sleep. Twice I was
awakened in the night by Fred getting up and stamp-
ing to get his feet warm, and once by one of the dogs
trying to make a bed of my head. I objected to the
latter proceeding, and the animal was content to lie
alono:side of me.
The mornino- of the 18th was line, and we were un-
(ler wav bv davbreak. Tlie trjivel was notliing more
nor less than a repetition of tlie day before. It was evi-
dent that the heavy gale we had at Ivickerton three days.
m
y
68
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
before did not reach here. The snow was, if anything,
deeper than when I came down. Just before dark we
struck an old track, and the dogs pricked up their ears,
threw up their tails, and went along rriiich faster than
before. The snow, too, in this track was not so deep
as elsewhere, which made the travelling still better.
The wind breezed up from the west, bringing snow
with it; but the dogs had the trail, and it must, in-
deed, be a bad condition of weather that could make
thein lose it.
The snow became less and less deep as w^e went to-
ward the north-west. We were thus enabled to make
good headway, and [it 6.30 o'clock we were alongside
the Florence,
The dogs were delighted to gel to the vessel, and
did not stop until they had ascended the ice steps
which we have alongside.
I now learned that Xep-e-ken had been very sick, but
was convalescent ; also that the gale which we had at
luckerton did not extend this far. The natives had
taken a few seals. Jonah and Clumimy had gone to
^iantilic, — the iirst for a wife for himself, and the sec-
ond for a wife for Eg-e-low, who had failed to get one
at Ivickerton.
Everything now goes along as usual. We eat,
drink, sleep, read, write, and play cards.
Koach and his mate started for home on the 18th.
Several dotr- teams have arrived from Kater-nuna.
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
k
One of the Esquimaux women from Molly Kater-nuna
o-ave birth to a child the mornins: of the 15th. She
is a young squaw, but is more prolific than the abori-
gines of the Arctic regions usually are, as this makes
her third chiki now living. I was on shore the day
before her conlinement, and noticed her husband
Wino-a was busy in buildins; a small iglau or snow-
house, about the size of a dog kennel. I asked 1 loach
what in the world he was building such a small house
for. lie answered that the man's wife was about to
be confined. Of course I then understood the situa-
tion. I have often seen these little snow huts put up
in the coldest weather, and the poor wife, no matter
how cold it is, is compelled to take shelter therein,
and, without attendance, is tliere delivered. She is
her own doctress and nurse, and washes and dresses
the little stranger. She remains in the hut a few days,
and then returns to her people.
On the 19th Jonah and Chummy returned from
KiautiUc, bringing two squaws: one, Chunnny's wife;
the other, Tow-poung, the affianced of Eg-e-low. All
this means hard bread and pork from the Florence,—
a fact of which I am duly made aware. It will be an
addition of two to our already large family.
Clunnmy reports that scurvy is raging among the
men at Niantilic. So far there has not been even the
least appearance of it among our crew. They are all
well, excepting Lee, and his foot has healed and is as
hU
70
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
.i : !
I
natural as before, save a small spot on the ball of the
heel.
On the 24th Eoach's mate, Fred, came from Kick-
erton on a dog sled. He reports two very heavy
gales at Kickerton. We have had none here. An-
nanatook Harbor should be named Pacific Harbor.
Having forgotten or neglected to bring ink, I am
compelled to manufacture my own, which is done
with gunpowder and vinegar.
Koach's mate staid two da^'s, and then left for home.
Nep-e-ken, Ete-tun, Kim-mock-kone, Eg-e-low, Al-o-
kee, Inue-mar-ket, and families have removed to Glou-
cester Island, some ten or twelve miles distant, where
they hope to get seal. This makes my family at the
schooner somewhat smaller; but we appear to have
just as many to feed. Every Monday, all through the
winter, has been provision day ^ that is, the day the
provision or weekly allowance was dealt out to the
squaws and children. In the commencement of the
winter I forbade the squaws and children coming to
the vessel. In lieu thereof I gave them four pounds
of bread, one cup of green tea or coffee, and one quart
of molasses weekly ; but, seals being scarce, and some
of the squaws having tw^o or three children, they would
soon consume that small allowance, and of course I
could not see them suffer. After their allowance was
gone I let them come to the vessel for additional sup-
plies, and gave to each a little boiled meal and mo-
i
t
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
71
lasses and a cup of cofiee or tea. In this way I have
fed, including the crew, thirty-five or forty persons
shice the 1st of Octoher.
Nothing strange or new has occurred during the
month of February.
We have had snow-storms now and then through-
out the month.
March ushered itself in without ceremonv. The
weather was verv cold, hut it was bnc-iit and sunshinv.
We received occasional visits from the natives en-
camped at Gloucester Island, but they brought but
little seal-meat. Thev had causcht but few seals ; in
fact, scarcely enousrh to furnish them oil for their
lamps. Captain Hall's cooper was here recently look-
ing for seal-skin, for which he wished to trade.
March 15. — The last fourteen days have been in-
tensely cold. The thermometer indicated minus 35"^
to 45° daily. The Esquimaux are catching a few
seals, but even they complain of the cold.
Nep-e-ken was here on the 13th, after the weekly
ahowance to the natives at Gloucester Island. He
brought us some skins and seal-meat, and reports very
strong wind at the island. We have experienced no
unusual winds here, — a strange fact, in view of the
proximity of the two localities. I dispatched Oc-a-
took with. a quantity of "trade" to Molly Kater-nuna
7-2
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
\
tliii^ nioriiiiig, to trade for skins, and lie took two deer-
skins, wliicli are used instead of thread in making up
skin-clotliino;. He only had live do2:s hitched to his
slei«rh. Nearlv all of our doi!;s have died. The weath-
er is now nioderatiuii^. The thermometer rei^istered
minus 35° last night, and this morning minus 12°.
It is still getting warmer, and a storm is threatening.
In a few days the natives will choose their locations
for the young sealing. Each Esquimaux takes a par-
ticular section, several miles in extent. These seals —
tiie '-netzik" of the Es{pnmaux — are their chief food
in winter, and furnish the skins of which they make
their summer clothing. They are smaller than the
CD v
kiolick^ — or, as the English call them, the " saddle-
back" — of the east coast of Greenland and the coast
of Labrador. Great numl)ers of them are taken each
spri^ig by English, Scotch, and Newfoundland whaling
crews, and one would naturally suppose that this whole-
sale destruction would destroy them in these seas; yet,
strange to say, it has caused no appreciable diminution
of their numbers.
The kiolick or saddle-back seal has its young on the
drift or pack ice, and this renders them eas}' to capture
when the vessel once ^irets amonsr them. They lie on
the ice by the thousand ; at times they extend as far
as tlie eve can reach from the crowd's nest — or, as an
Americrai would sav, from the mast-head — with a good
telescope. In hunting them, there is nothing to do
I
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
73
f
but get off the vessel to the ice mid knock them in the
head with a seal club, and then skin tlieni and drag
them to the ship. Some of tlie large steamers carry
many men, — from one hundred to two hundred.
Therefore the work of destruction goes on rapidly.
The men are most all experienced hands, many of
them having followed the business for vears. The
netzik — more timid than its cousin, the kiolick — -has
its young under the ice, or, more properly speaking,
between the ice and snow. It chooses a place where
the snow^ lies deep upon the ice, and, commencing
underneath, will burrow with its fore flippers a hole
through the hard sea ice until it comes to the snow,
when it stops boring upward and begins to buri'ow
lonij:itudinally alons: the hard surface of the ice under
the snow. It makes its eglow or burrow quite large ;
perhaps fifteen feet long and six wide. The hole
throuii'h tlie ice furnishes access to the sea. The ea:-
low is covered with from two to five feet of snow, and
this makes it impossible to hunt them without the aid
of (loiTs, which scent the eorlows throusch the snow.
The (loses, beiii": harnessed and held in bv a strap or
line, will lead the hunter to a spot directly over the
eglow, and will then stop and whine and scratch. The
hunter then breaks through the snow, and often se-
cures both old and young ; but if the young one be
well grown l)oth mother and young will escape into
74
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
i!
'(
the sea, unless tlie hunter is quick in making his
attack.
These seals are very beautiful when young. Tlieir
coats are white and their hair silky, making excellent
winter clothiui?. When about two weeks old they
connnence to shed their coats, which are replaced by
others of liorht srrav in color and silkv in texture. Tliev
are at this time very delicate eatinsc.
Al-o-kee has just returned from Gloucester Island.
lie report* that very few seals have been caught there.
I have just received from Shu-mar-ker a neat wood-
en case, containing three ivory needles. Attached to
the case were a leather and an ivorv thimble, such as
are used by the natives when they are not in commu-
nication with the ships. They also make from bone,
knives, seal spears, and harpoons; the latter for use in
capturing the great bow-head whale.
Tradition teaches the Esquimaux that many years
ago they were very numerous, and that game was
then more abundant than now^; that their forefathers
enjoyed themselves hugely, some of them having
manv wives ; that the men of different tribes warred
with one another, one tribe often surprising another
and stealing its women ; and that to avoid surprises
tribes often encamped and fortified themselves upon
high islands, from which they hurled down death and
destruction upon the invader.
They believe in a Supreme Bemg, and their ankoots
■%
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND (JULF.
75
are supposed to communicate with it. Tliev also be-
lieve in an evil s[)irit, and think that after deatli the
bad will go to a different place from the good. Fpon
the death of one of their number thej phice all his
hunting implements beside his grave, to assist him- in
his journey to the next world. They also carry food
to his grave and deposit it there. For three days they
do this: then th(
h
his
ley suppose ne is tar enough on
journey to need no more. The men are separated
from the women in continement, and in their monthly
sickness, or menses. Infanticide is practiced, but the
females are the ones ii^encnrilv destroved. Amoiicr tlie
western tribes this terrible practice prevails to such an
extent that there are not women enough to furnish
wives for the men. Thev are a small race, resemblini?
the Chinese or Japanese. They have ^ery small hands
and feet, and dark and coarse hair. As yet I have
not seen one bald. They have fine teeth, and S'>me of
the young girls are quite good-looking; but they l.)reak
down early, and after this they arc hideous.
Chastity is unknown among them. The men often
exchange wives for a time. No marriage rites or forms
are observed. The man merely chooses a companion,
and if she does not suit she is soon cast aside.
The}^ eat their meat and tish both raw and cooked.
The story of their drinking large quantities of train
oil is a fable. They take a little blubber with their
meat, to help digestion, as we eat fat with ours.
.-< I
li
76
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
They are dirty from circiunstiiu^es. Put a white
man here without soap or water and he would be no
cleaner than the Esquimaux. In fact, the Esquimaux
are much cleaner than some of our neighbors, whom
it is very difficult to distinguisli from the dirty and
dark natives of the Arctic zone.
'.Ik.'
I
March 16. — A stormy day, with a strong breeze
from the north-west and snow. The thermometer,
which had been ransrino^ verv low throuii^h the earlv
part of the month, fell to zero.
Kep-e-ken and his party, bag and baggage, arrived
in the evening. He bad come for a visit prior to his
dcj^arture for the young sealing. He informed us that
at Gloucester Island, a place formerly noted for its
abundance of seals, they could scarcely catch enough
to eat. The same scarcity prevailed, he said, at all
other parts of the gulf that we have heard from.
The Esquimaux here catch little or nothing, and we
must, of course, feed them. I believe that had the ships
not visited Cumberland Gulf this season the natives
would have suffered greatly for food.
We cleaned out the run of the Florence to-day, hav-
ing used all the coal from that quarter.
March 17. — The storm is over; the weather this
mornins; was clear and cold. The thermometer stood
at minus 25°. Nep-e-ken brought me off a young seal.
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND (JULF.
77
It had apparently just made its di'l)Ut, and it as rpiiok-
Iv made its exit. It was ahont sixteen inches lonir. I
wished to sret it stntled for mv little hov.
There was a beautiful halo around the moon last
night, a mock moon a[»pearing on each side of tlie real
moon and on the ring of the halo. As for the auroras,
we see them often, but none verv brilliant this winter.
Mr. Sherman, who is up at all times in the night, has
reported some very brilliant displays.
Chummy tells us that at times in these nortliern lat-
itudes it rains tish, tiesh, and fowl. He also tells me
that very often the Iimuits or Esquimrnx see white
deer and white seals, and that they (the latter) come
direct from the heavens.
Oc-a-took arrived this evenini!; from Molh' Ivater-
nuna, bringing a strange native with him. Tie brought
also six deer-skins, three seal-skins suitable for cloth-
ing, a good quantity of ewidlow, (deer-sinew.) iind a
piece of oog-jook, which will be good for boot soles.
This was not a very extensive trade. There are too
many ships in the gulf, ami it makes the skin market
poor for the buyer and correspondingly good for the
seller. Oc-a-took reports a very heavy gale of wind
at Kater-nuna last night, which was still raging when
he left. Ete-tuu re[)orts verj' heavy winds at Glouces-
ter Island. He arrived with his family to-day. While
I am writing this we have another arrival, Pe-ker, from
Kater-nuna, who brings six deer-skins for trade. We
!l
78
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
have fed about forty persons to-day — men, woiiien, and
children.
Ill;
March 18. — Weather clear and cold. Thermom-
eter indicates minus 25°. Most of the Esquimaux are
off seal-hunting. They returned this evening with
only one seal. Tins is allowance day, and bread, mo-
lasses, tea, and coffee were dealt out to the w\>men.
Nep-e-ken brought me nineteen seal-skins yesterday.
We have quite a number in the hold, but cannot do
much with them until the weather gets warmer.
March 19. — Clear and cold. Esquimaux off sealing.
They returned without game, but were ready ibr their
mush, bread, and pork. Sawed, split, and sent wood
to the observatory to-day for Mr. Sherman. Pe-ker
left to-day for Kater-nuna, promising to bring me some
young seal-skins tliis spring.
#
March 20. — Light northerly wind. Thermometer
fell in the night to minus "^5°. It rose in the middle
of the day lo miruis 15°. Some of the Esquimaux are
preparing to start for the young sealing.
Ivim-mock-kone and Inu.-mar-ket have gone to-
day with sled and dogs to make a track to the young-
sealing phice.
We have had as yet no indications of the equinoc-
tial srales.
jS-dSKtli^Wtl^^jl- ^l^^j^i^r
f
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
79
March 21. — Cloudy, willi light snow and light west-
erly wind.
Xep-e-kon and his party are preparing to leave for
tlie vounc^ sealino^.
Bhu-niai'-ker yesterday found two seals chat had
heen ca})tured hy foxes, and their heads were eaten
off. The foxes destroy in this manner many younff
seals. The natives returned this evenmg from their
seal-hunt without game. I -m almost out of patience
witli them. Tlieir failure to get seals makes it had
for us. They devour our food, and we (^at in retm-n
neither seal-meat nor skins. I havo fitted out Ne])-e-
ken and his party witli hread, coffee, tea, molasses, and,
of course, tohacco and pipes. They start in the morn-
ing, to he gone, I hope, a month or six weeks.
March 22. — This mornino^, ahout 3 o'clock, a vorv
strong wind hegan hk)wing from the south-etist, with
snow. The hju'ometer, liowever, was rising fast, and
I knew that the gale could not last long. As I conjec-
tured, at sunrise the i2:ale al»ated and the wind hauled
to the westward; l)ut it had lastcil long enough to
frighten the Esijuimaux from their contemplated jom'-
ney. Thermometer plus 15^ this noon, — the warmest
dav we have had for some time.
March 23.^Cloudv and rrr'/war:-!. Thermometer
[)his 22'-^ at noon. Xe[»-e-ken and party started early
80
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
'I
k-5i ,
this niornino;. Slni-iiiar-ker eauo^ht a vouno; seal and
its mother. I have procured the young one for a
specimen.
Two Esquimaux came from Kater-nuna j'csterday.
I ti'aded with them for four young seal-skins, one l)ear-
skin, and some deer-sinews. One of these Es(|ui>!iaux,
wlio is without that very necessary hut sometimes un-
ruly convenience, a wife, wislied to carry away one of
the fair damsels of Annanatook. All that was want-
ing was the fair one's consent; hut she was coy.
Eg-e-low arrived this morning with his bride. Thev
had spent tlieir honeymo(m in a snow hut, put up for
the occasion, somewhere between here and Gloucester
Island.
March 24.— Clear and warm. Little pudtHes of
snow and ice wjiter were noticed on deck, — a cheerijig
sign of the approach of warmer weather. This has
been an exceptional month. The tirst eighteen or
twenty days were very cold, with liglit wind, at least
at Aimanatook, and now the weather has suddenlv
moderated and the thermometer shows a change of
i'rom minus 40° or 50° to the freezing point, —a change
of from 70- to 80° in temperature.
The Esrpiimaux are all otl' young soalin^'-. Eo--o-
low departed with his bride this morning for a sealing
tri[). His outfit consisted of one rather dilapidated
sleigh, three good dogs and one lame one, four or five
PPP"
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND (iULP.
81
t
deer-skins for his nuptial concli, snn<lry pieces of hlab-
ber and seal-meat, five pounds of bread, one quai'l ot
molasses, and two ounces of tea. One cjin easily per-
ceive that the necessities of tViese aborigines arc but
few. Where niglit ovei'takes them they put up a few
blocks of snow to protect themselves from the wind,
spread their skins on the ice, and sleep.
March 25. — Cloudy, hght snow, and light soutberly
wind. Some of the Esquimaux are oif hunting young
seal. One of them, Shu-uuir-ker, is laid up with snow-
bhndness. Others are making snow-shoes, as the snow
is quite deep and travelling difficult. The spoils of
vesterdav's hunt were twelve seals — ten young ones
and two old ones. One of the old ones was a male.
The netzik male seal at five years of age has a most
disgusting smell. The natives, however, relish the
meat. Indeed, some of them prefer it to the younger
and sweeter meat. I In'cakfasted this morning on the
liver of the female seal caught yesterday. These livers
are very sweet, and we [)rize them highly. Tbc liver
of the laroje bearded seal is corrupt; not edil)le. So,
also, is the liver of the polar bear, especially the old
ones. The oog-jook of Davis's Strait, Cumberland
Gulf, Hudson's Strait, and adjacent waters, I considci-
the same as the oosurk (or ursnrk, or oozook) of Green-
land. It has an attuk (here called an eglow) or blow-
hole in the ice. I have seen them caught through
6
82
THE CRUISE OF THE FLOKENCE.
«i
tlie?^e boles tlie samo as tliev would catch a netzik
soal. "lie VOU112: 1 have taken from the mother wlien
nearly ready to he delivered. They are of a dark,
bluish color.
March 26. — Olondv, with occasional snow. The
thermometer has been plus 33°. All winter our deck
lias been covered witli about one foot of snow. This
covering we kept on the deck to keep the frost out of
the Fhirnice, To-day we uncovered, and the water
commenced to run freelv on the deck. The snow on
the ice has softened, the water has ])ressed its wav
tlu'ousrh the ice, and now it stands about six inches
deep, witli about two feet of snow on top, making it
verv bad travellin"'.
The natives yesterday captured twelve seals. Some
of them remained at home to-day to make snow-shoes.
Shu-mar-ker continues to suffer from sn()w-l)lindness.
Mr. Sisson, who, I believe, is the best meclumic on
l)oard, is re})airing one of the natives' sleighs. Mr.
Sisson is our cooper, our carpenter, and, indeed, our
evervthins: in the way of mechanics.
It has been nearly calm all dav, l)nt while I am
writing this the wind has suddenly come on butt-end
foremost from the south-east. The Florence trembled
for a momeht and then shook herself free from her
winter ju'ison, tlu'owing up her stern some six inches,
and l)reaking the snowbaid^: which is around her in
I
WINTER IN CUMliERLAND GULF.
every direction. The vessel is now very much b}' the
head, and has a bad Hst a-port.
March 27. — ^ Cloudy; wind quite heavy from the
south-east; occasional snow. Thermometer plus 30°.
Owing to bad weather, only one of the P]squimaux is
off hunting to-day. Yesterday they got six seals. The
boats which we put on the ice last fall were com[)letely
buried in snow. I had them dug out to-day. I also
righted the schooner by removing some weiglit from
port to starl)oard.
William Albion's hand is in a terrible concUtion. I
am afraid he will lose the use of it.
It is said by all of the Esquhnaux with whom I have
conversed that the time for niditication of the Arctic
raven is February and March; also, that the eggs of
this bird will freeze and crack without receiving such
injury as will prevent their hatching.
■ The much -talked -of animal, the wolverine, ban
been described to me as being of a light gi'ay color;
smaller than a wolf; thick-sot, witli sharp, long chiws;
very powerful and ferocious. The Esquimaux all have
a wholesome fear of coming in contact with this ani-
nial. I have heard the same description from Mr.
Erkims, in Hudson's Strait.
I have been trying to ascertain from Cliummv,who
has been to the United States with me and is quite
intelligent, where the Esquimaux tirst procured their
(i
m
84
THE CKUTSE OF THE FLORENCE.
(logs. The tradition is, tliat in the beginning tlie
primitive Esquimanx or Tnnnits felt great need of
some heast to drag tliem to and fro in their hunting
-expeditions, and their ankoots importuned tlie Great
Sjiirit for relief Tliey then made some harnesses,
and placed them by some large white rocks in the far
north, and in due time a fine team of dogs made their
appearance in harness, to the gratification of the Es-
quimaux.
SShu-mar-ker, who ^Yas the only one off hunting yes-
terday, found only two youuiz; seals, and they were
partly eaten by foxes and ravens. This voracious bird,
the Arctic raven, destroys manv youni>: seals. Thev
even attack and kill the young deer and the puppies
of the Esquimaux dogs.
starch 28. — Snowino;, with ho'ht wind from the west.
Thermometer has fallen to plus 20°, and still falling.
A sleigh arrived from Kater-nuna last night with one
man and an old squaw. All the fade they had were
some deer-skins, which I bought for a little bread.
March 20. — Cloudv; wind blowinc: strong from tbe
south-east, with occasional squalls. This long contin-
uation of southerly wind, T fear, will bring the pack-
ice of Davis's Strait into the gulf. The Esquimaux
and ourselves are entirely out of seal-meat, the weather
being so bad as to make it impossible to hunt with sue-
I
^
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
85
#
cess. Duly one young seal was caught yesterday. They
are very small as yet, and are scarcely fit to eat. One
young seal would make ahout a meal for one luitive.
I liave heard nothing from Xep-e-ken since he de-
v>arted on the 23d instant.
March 30.— Light wind from the south-east. There
is an occasioival spitting of snow, and the weather is
quite warm. The Esquimaux got only one young
seal yesterday. A sleigh arrived from Kater-nuna last
evenino; witli several natives. They had no trade.
March 31.— Cloudy; occasional snow-S(iualls, with
a strong breeze from the north-west; (juite cold. Two
of the six Esquimaux who were hunting yesterday
returned hist night, bringing one seal. The other
four have not returned.
Tliere was a very tine display of the aurora last
night to the south and east of our position.
A sleigh arrived last night from Molly Kater-nuna,
bringing me a pair of moccasins and mittens. To bring
these the native iiL cliarge of tlie sleigli had to travel
about forty miles coming, and, of coiu'se, will have to
o-o the same distance returning, lie left this niorn-
in<r.
The late warm weather has nearly destroyed the
eglows or snow imts of the natives, and it has left
ntany of the K^(iuimaux with very bad coughs. One
80
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
''•u
of tlie sqiiJiws, Iviick-oo-jng's wife, is seriously ill. Pul-
irioiiary diseases are the only ones indigenous to the
climate, or, at least, they are the cause of foiir-tifths of
all the deaths that occur anion.g the Esquinuuix.
I called 'all hands this niornincc to turn the hoats
bottoni-up on the ice. I was surprised at the response*
two men and one lame dog! I did not realize that
the crew were so few in mmiber until they were col-
lected toc^ether. We liave only six men in the fore-
castle. Two of theni are laid up, — one with a frozen
foot and the other with a sore hand. One man is ap-
pointed to attend the two disabled ones; another is
assisting Mr. Sherman in his scientitic observations.
Tliat takes four from ship duty, leaving only two, be-
sides the officers, steward, and cabin hoy. We man-
aged, however, to turn the boats by calling on the
squaws who were otf to the schooner waiting for their
mush. «■■
April 1. — Cloudy, with quite a breeze from the north
and west. Five natives who were oft" sealing I'eturned
last night, after an absence ot* thirty-six liours. They
were very tired and hungry, but had been quite fortu-
nate in their hunt. Kuck-oo-jug, his son, and son-in-
law caui!:ht nineteen vouns; seals and one old one; Al-
o-kee and Shu-mar-ker, seven young and two old ones.
The old ones were left behind, for the present, on ac-
count of the bad travellins:.
»
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
87
^
Two sleighs arrived from Kater-uuiui last evening.
One of tiie'' natives, Eva l>y name, has been all sum-
mer and winter in the vicinity of Kennedy's Lake,
en<rao:ed in deer-hunting, hut, owing to deep snow, he
coukF not bring his skins, of wliieli he says he has
plentv, down to the ship.
Two Esquimaux came with tlie other sleigli. They
are apparently in search of a runaway wife, or, at least,
one of them' is; but the fair and frail one will not ac-
company her lord and master back to liis castle of
snow at Kater-nuna.
Kim-niock-kone likewise arrived to-day. He went
away with Nep-e-kcn, but he and Inue-mar-ket sepa-
rated from bim, so that each would have a better
chance in the hunt. They have taken quite a nundnn'
of seals, and come down to-day for their allowance ot
provisions and tobacco.
April 2.— Clear and sunshiny, with strong breeze
from the north-west. We were employed to-day break-
ino- out the hold, doing some little carpentermg, clear-
in- the decks, kc. Two Esquimaux got three seals
yesterday. The others, having rested from the tatigue
of their thirtv-six-hour journey, started out this morn-
iu- for another hunt. The fair damsel mentioned
ye'sterday ile<l rather than submit to the wishes ot her
^The spring tides of March give to the massive ice
88
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
t
surrouiidiiiiiT our littlo vessel a rise and fall of twenty-
four feet and some inelies. At tlie full tides the eruncli-
iniz: Hud iJ:rindinu: of the ice, the dasliinji; of the water,
rlie <i:ur2;liiig of the eddies, and the top[)lini>; over of
tlie nieelv-i)oised ice tahk's alon<i^ the shores convev a
most striking impression of the power tliat is tluis
hrouii'ht int(^ action. The coldest of winters fails to
freeze the water in certain localities liere. The most
solid winter ice is open here and there in pools and
patches worn by currents and tides. Similar openings
have been found by all previous explorers in the Arc-
tie seas. Such were the o})en spaces found by J^arry
in Wellington Channel ; sucli are the streandioles
(stromholes) of the Greenland coast, the polynia of
tlie Russians; and such we have here in the most rig-
orous of winters. The seals resort to tliese holes in
oM'cat numbers throu2:h the winter, and, of coui'se, they
*— . O 7 7 7,/
are favorite places for the Esquimaux hunters, whose
chief reliance for sustenance throuii^h the loni>; Arctic
winters is the netzik seal.
The huntinor of the seal at tlie streamholes is not
without danger to the hunter. At the spring tides or
full tides of winter — or, more properly speaking, at the
full and chansre of the moon, and for several davs
before and after — the tides run very swift, often with
such velocity as to l)reak large masses of ice (though
it he several feet in thickness) surrounding the holes,
and, lifting them up edgewise, cany them under the
U
WINTER IN CUMBKULAND GULF.
89
I
inaiii Hoes. Maiiv seals arc lost at tlicse holes after
l)eini>: sliot, the current carrviiiii; them down and nnder
the iee Ijefore the Imnter can s[)car thcni and draw
tlieni out. Several of our Esquimaux have had nar-
row escapes this winter while huntin_i»; at these holes.
In hreaking out to-day I found that we have nearly
all of our fresh meats, sou[)s, peaches, and milk left.
We have used scarcely any of these articles as yet.
We have suhsisted on pork, hard hrcad, meal, rice,
and seals, and thus far not one man has heen sick.
AVe use no liine juice.
. We have not been housed over, hut liave left our
little schooner o[)en and free to the Arctic winds and
storms, therebv o-aininij: a free circulation of good and
[)ure air. At times the thermometer has indicated
minus 50°, but we were very comfortable, although
we had the cabin com[)anion-slide partly off and the
doors o[»en some of the time. With a cheerful mind,
a cleanly person, pure air, and, of course, something to
eat, one can defy the scurvy for years. I have no fear
that my men will be afflicted with it. They eat seal-
meat, raw or cooked, equal to the Esquimaux. Yes-
terday they were all on deck surrounding a seal fresh-
ly killed and skinned. The seal so(^n disappeared,
leaviu"' no trace excei)t a few bones and the bloody
hands and faces of the men.
April 3.— Clear and sunshiny ; strong breeze from
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i
90
THE CRUISE OF TFIE FLOREXCE.
It
the west. Thermometer at early mornins: mhiiis 5°.
The Esquimaux were all oft' hunting this morning.
They got hut few seals yesterday. I iind upon hreak-
ins: out and takini? an inventory of our stores that we
have remaining about twenty-two hundred pounds of
bread, thirteen barrels of meat, about nine barrels of
flour, one barrel of meal, rice, beans, all our hams
and nearly all our preserved meats and vegetables,
fruits, &c., notwithstanding the fact that we have fed
on an average forty persons since Octol)er. We liave
only four casks of coal — probably about three tons —
remaining, but I think, with the wood we have, it will
be sufticient to see us through, as we can soon do with-
out flres, except for cooking purposes.
There was a very beautiful display of the aurora
last evenino^ from 9 p. m. until after midnischt. It ex-
tended from the north in an arch to the south-west,
and consisted of a dark segment, of a hazy or slaty
appearance, surmounted by an arch of light, fi'om
which luminous streamers quivered and darted toward
the zenith.
April 4. — Clear and cool, with light breeze from the
north-west. This morning, while half asleep, or in
that dreamy state between sleeping and wakefulness,
I heard a quick, sharp tread upon deck. The cal)iu
doors were thrown open violently, and an intruder de-
scended, without ceremony, and drew aside my state-
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
91
room door, wishing me good morning. Looking up I
discovered Mr. Hall, of Kickerton station, standing in
the doorway, dressed in his travelling suit of deer-
skins. The steward and hoy were instantly called,
and as soon as Hall could divest himself o^' his cloth-
ing breakfast was served. He had started from the
Kickertons the dav before, but when about half-way
to Annanatook he met with bad travelling — deep snow
and water on the ice; so that he was compelled to
pass the night upon the floe. After breakfast Cap-
tain Hall ordered his native driver to bring down a
certain rubber water-bag, capable of holding three
quarts of water. The native shortly appeared, hold-
ing the bag in his hands, and, with a most woeful ex-
pression on his liice, he exclaimed : " As-se-a-wake !
as-se-a-wake ! " The bag was collapsed. I s(wn dis-
covered that it was not water they had lost, but some-
thing stronger, and, from its scarcity, considered more
precious.
There is no news of interest from below. They are
preparing for the spring whaling. A fly made its ap-
pearance in our cabin yesterday. I have seen nothing
of it to-day. It probably ventured too near the cabin
door and was singed by the cold air.
Captain Hall tells me that quite a number of the
men at Kiantilic are down with the scurvy. Eg-e-low
arrived from Nep-e-ken's sealing grounds, bringing
some few skins and a little meat. He reports good
92
TUE CRUISE OF THE FLOPENCE.
w.
'sealing at their station. He returns to-morrow with
provisions and tobacco.
April 5. — ^Last evening the wind suddenly hauled
to the south-east, and before niidniijht it was blowing
hard, with heavy snow falling. Captain Hall had
made preparations to start for home, but this morning
he concluded to postpone his departure until the storm
breaks. Tlie wind havinsr moderated alons: toward
noon, Eg-e-low started on his return. The snow is very
deep and, of course, travelling is difficult. One little
snowbird, with white and dark plumage, was seen
to-day. The Florence has on her bridal robes again
to-day. She is covered with frost from deck to truck,
and from a little distance presents a most beautiful
appearance. She is often thus. I attribute it to the
great quantity of water on the ice, which keeps the
snow continually saturated ;ind the air full of vapor,
which settles and condenses on our risririnff, ffivino: the
vessel a very picturesque appearance.
It is quite warm. The thermometer showed plus
24° at noon.
April G. — Cloudy, but warm and pleasant. Captain
Hall left this morning at 4 o'clock. All hands were
employed at cutting fresh-water ice. The Esquimaux
were — all but three — off seal injjc aijain. The three at
home are laid up with sore eyes. The squaws are at
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
98
•
work on skin-clothing, bnt they work very sk)w. The
only thing the P]sqnirnanx are pnnetiuil in is their
meals. Although they have no clocks, they never
rniss the time ; and when breakfast or dinner is ready
they are there promptly for it.
As soon as they are through with the spring sealiug,
I must either send or go myself to the Kickerton Isl-
ands. I wish to get a large sleigh — one capable of
carrying a whale-boat or large casks. I must get
casks down to the whale which we captured last fall
and try and save some blubber from the body; also,
if possible, get the jaw-l)ones for the north polar expe-
dition. The whale is at pi'esent buried in the shore
ice. It will be a difhcult and tedious task to cut him
out, but I think we will make the attempt.
It is astonishing to see how iiesliy the most of the
crew have grown since leaving home. Certairdy the
Arctic regions nuist agree with them. My cal)in boy —
I am almost afraid to call him *'boy" now— has in-
creased in bulk from one hundred and sixteen to one
hundred and sixty pounds; and Mr. Burrows, the sec-
ond officer, can scarcely see out of his eyes for fat ;
while some of the others are not far behind him.
The temperature rose this afternoon to plus 32^,
again threatening the Esquimaux' eglovvs with destruc-
tion. This morning it was daylight at 8 o'clock. It
gets dark about 9 p. m. I am glad that the dark sea-
son has passed, for our kerosene is getting low. The
94
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
crew and tlie sqnaws are on the ice tins evening play-
ing ball. Even the little children join in t^ e game.
All ap[)ear to be happy and free from care. Tlie in-
valids are improving rapidly, nnder the combined in-
fluence of warm weather and seal-meat. •
m
m
m
m
m
8 'I
I
rn
rp
April 7. — Broken clouds; warm and pleasant ; wind
south-east. It is Sunday, and, of course, we do nothing
to-day, or, at least, only what is absolutely necessary.
The Esquimaux, however, do not cease their hunting.
They have no Sunday ; therefore no day of v/orship.
One of the squaws brought me a very line deer-skin
jacket this morning. I have consideral)le ch^thing
made up, but not as nmch as I hope to gi}\. My cabin
boy and one of the foremast hands ventured out
sealing this morning. They returned this evening
thoroughly " beat out." Of course they had no seals.
f
April 8. — It is a beautiful morning — one of the soft,
balmy, sunshiny da^^s that would be enjoyal)le at home
and is delightful here. The snow is disappearing
very fast. The snow embankment around the vessel,
which was 'several feet thick, has almost disappeared.
The men begin to straighten up, and the kinks are
fairly gone from some of their backs. It is rennxrk-
ably mild for this time of the year. We have no lire ;
the cabin doois are open, and it is much pleasanter on
deck than below. This is allowance dav. Earlv this
I
If
WINTER IN CUiMBEllLANI) (iULF.
05
nionnii£f the squiiws came ott' from tho shoi'o, iiceoni-
paiiied by the children and dog^s. Several had young
seals, just skinned, in their hands; — these, I suppose,
to better their clianees for some warm coliee. The
luinters yesterday got quite a num])er of young seals.
To-day thcvare laid ui) with sore eves. We were em-
ployed most of the day in cleaning up the Florence
and in nuiking needed repairs. The thei ;iu)meter
showed plus 2U° early this morning.
«»
April 0. — Wind blowing strong from the north-
west. Last nijjht the air was thick with liii^ht snow.
The two natives who went sealiuiJ^ vesterdav remained
otf all nicrht. Thev returned this morninoc with four-
teen seals. I have Just sent one of the men to the
shore for two vounsc seals for breakfast. We consume
from four to live daily. The meat is very sweet and
is as tender as a soriui^ chicken. It is not onlv verv
palatable, but it keei>s the crew in gO(jd healtli.
Wlule it is fresh in mv memorv, I think I had bet-
ter write, not what I know, l»ut what I hear, of Lake
Kennedy. This lake is supposed to be situated in lat-
itude ()(i° north and longitude 78° west. It is so placed
on the chai'ts, but by whose authoritv I caimot sav, as
I have neither read nor heard of anv white man hav-
ing visited it until Captain John Ivoach did so in the
year 1870. Jle went there deer-hunting, in company
with some Esquimaux, in the s[>ring of that year, lie
96
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
mm
.4
hi
:3
I
yf
went in the month of April, before the land had thrown
oil* its winter coat, and hefot'e the snn had thawed the
lake ice. I had often heard the Esqniniaux speak of
this great lake; of its abundance offish; of the great
quantity of game which resorts there; of their not be-
ing al)le to see land from one shore toward the other;
of the land, being entirely level, — in fact, a vast plain
or prairie, stoneless and treeless, but covered in sum-
mer with tall grass, in which the natives would secrete
themselves and await the a[)i)roach of their unsus-
pecting i»rey, the reindeer. While thus secreted in
the grass, tlie Esquimaux have shot down as many as
twenty or thirtv *deer before the herd took alarm and
tied. I have been more particular in my inquiries
this time than heretofore concerning this lake, as I
wished to get all the information p()ssil)le about it.
With this in view, I have heard Mr. Roach's stoiy,
althoiiirh he was there at a time when evervthin«: Was
locked fast bv the frost. He started with two slei<jrhs,
nianned by Esquimaux. He was four days on the
way between Kickerton and Kennedy Lake. He saw
thousands of reindeer; went up a deep fiord just a
short distance from Kater-nuna, On arriving at the
head of the fiord he crossed a low, narrow neck of
land, about a hundred yards in width, then entered on
the lake ice ; followed the lake about fifteen miles or
more; came to another narrow neck of land, about
two hundred vards in breadth, which he crossed and
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND (II LF.
U7
entered on another lake; followed this lake about
thirty miles, then came to another narrow neck of land,
which he also crossed and entered on Kennedy Luke.
After leaving the first lake he lost sight of the moun-
tains to the eastward, and to the westward neither hill
nor mound broke the view as tar as he c^ould see. It was
a vast snow-white and snow-covered prairie, Ken-
nedy Lake and everything surrounding it were locked
in ice. He discovered that tlie lake was dotted with
hundreds of small islands, many of them not larger
than an ordinary parlor floor. The Esquimaux visit
this lake every spring for the purpose of hunting the
reindeer, of which they get great nundjers. Some re-
main at or near the lake all winter, as did Eva, who
was here a few days ago. They all have one story t()
tell c' the vastness of this lake; of the abundance of
game; of the large salmon and many other species of
fish which inhabit its waters; and of the many seals
of the netzik species which are found there. Among
the game described I can make out three kinds of
oeese, manv ducks, and other birds without number.
The squaws destroy the young goslings as food for the
doo-s. The land is entirely free from stones. Its soil
is dark and abounds with fossils. One native tells me
that last summer he was at the lake's western extrem-
ity; that, looking to the westward, he could see no
land—nothing but water; and he thought he. saw a
ship there. This lake empties into Fox Channel, ov
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
I !
what is called Dorchester Bay, all still unexplored.
The Ksquiniaiix carry their large and heavy hoats
i'rom here to this lake. Thev have also carried the
large and clumsy Scotch boats there.
Considered from a scientific point of view, these
lakes — I say " lakes," because there are three — open
a vast field to the explorer. In a pecuniary point of
view, I believe it would pay to work it. There are
fish, seal, birds, and deer. Hundreds upon hundreds
of thousands of pounds of deer-meat, fish, eggs, feath-
ers, and down could be preserved. Then there are
oil from the seals, skin from the seals and deer, thou-
sands of geese and ducks. All could be put up in cans
there — at least those articles suitable for preservation
in this way — and easily sent to salt water, and thence
home to the markets. Where is the Yankee who will
undertake this enterprise ? I believe there is a mine
of wealth there. If I could spare time I would visit
this lake — or, rather, these lakes — now. To explore
them, and others probably adjacent, would require a
whole sunmier. The natural resources of the section
can only be ascertained by systematic and careful
exploration.
April 10. — Yesterday afternoon and last night the
north-west wind blew very strong, with heavy snow-
drift. ' The thermometer fell from plus 19° to minus
5°. This morning the weather is better, but still a
'•
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND OULF.
00
good breeze prevails, and it is quite cold. An aurora
was seen last night about midnight. Some of the
Esquimaux are hiid up with ophthalmia. Since tlie
squaws received their allowance, on Mondav, I have
not seen one at the schooner; but I fear we will have
a storm of them l-ere to-dav. Thev are fond of hot
coffee and mush, and are as vain and proud of a calico
skirt as their favored sisters of a more genial clime
would be of silks and satins. '
April 11. — Clear and tine weather. Earlv this morn-
ing the thermometer indicated 2°. The Esquimaux,
having partly recovered fr^^m snow-blindness, are off
sealing. Mr. Kundein has gone with them to try his
luck. The native Eva and his wife arrived last nioht
from (Gloucester Island, l)ringing me tive young seals
and a promise of more as soon as he gets them. The
late gale and low temperature have improved the trav-
elling somewhat. The native who was in pursuit of his
runaway wife, (Neleanger,) and who has been loitering
around here in hope, I suppose, tliat she would return
to his dirty, dusky, and greasy end)race, de[)arted to-
day in despair. The wife has tied to her uncio for
protection. Although the thermometer stands in the
middle of the day at or in the vicinity of zero, the side
of the vessel that receives the sun's ravs will almost
burn the hand. The Esquimaux, when in pursuit of
seals this time of the year, are careful, on killing one.
100
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCli
'H
J!
to cover it well with ^low before they go in pursuit
of more. Should tliev ueiicleet to do this, and leuve
the seal uncovered for a sliort time, the hair on the
side exposed to the sun's rays will come oif as easily
as the hair of a scalded hoi?. Tlie effect of the sun
on the liuman skin is to turn it black or verv dark,
very often removing the cuticle or scarfskin, ur.less
the face be well protected with a shade.
We are emi:)loyed to-day at getting out some pro-
vision from the hold for use. Mr. Sisson is putting
Itone shoeing on the small boat. We shoe the keels
of our boats with bone from the Jaws of the whale, so
as to make tliem easv to haul over the ice. Very soon,
now, we will have the long Arctic day, — continual
daylight; no night, no stars. One will scarcely know
wlien to go to rest, but I have a solution for that prob-
lem — if, indeed, it should prove one: I shall go to bed
when I need rest. This is a land of extremes, — either
all dark or all light; all cold or all warm ; very bad
or verv i?ood weather.
I have just had live young seals, skinned and ready
to cook, brought aboard. They will do for two meals
for all hands. Bv this it will be seen that the white
man has but little to boast of, in the wav of eatincr
meat, over his brother Esquimiiux. I think, of the two,
the white man is the most voracious.
April 12.— Cloudy and warm. Thermometer regis-
I
WINTER IN CUMUFRLAND (JILF.
101
tercd plus 32^ this morning. Wo hiivo imothor wurni
Npell u[K)n us. It is very evident tluit below us tlio
\vin(ls are to the southward.
I get the information I'rom Eva, who was liere yes-
terday, that Ca})t. Murray's steamer Windward, which
wintered at ^'iantilic or at llari-ison's J*oint, a eape
which extends some five miles out i'rom the nuiin har-
l)or, is now at New Xorvion,a cape some twenty miles
to the north of Niantilic. Tl)e crews of the four ships
which wintered at this expofc-d point for the purpose
of trettins: out earlv in t^^o si)rini;, sliould the water
extend up the gulf at tuat time, connnenced to saw
out in the warm weatlKU' wlich we liad the latter part
of March, the water being liien only about one hun-
dred vards from. the vessels. I understand that ('a[)-
tain Murrav, on i?ettin<]r his vessel out of her winkT
»' ' CD Cj
quarters, discovered that the long continuation of
southerly winds had brought the Davis Strait pack-ice
into the gulf, and, to prevent his ship from being clos-
ed in 1)V it, he steamed up to the head of tiie water
which is at Xew Xorvion. Should the south winds
continue, even this will not save him from being in-
closed in the pack; for it will surely come up, unless
there is a long spell of north-west wind. I regret ^'ery
mucli to hear that the Davis Strait pack-ice found its
way into the gulf, as, once getting fairly lodged there,
it is lialjle to rer..ain all summer, and may make it
102
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
very difiicnlt for me to get out in time to join the
polar expedition.
The Esquimaux captured a few seals yesterday/
Mr. Kumlein did not get any. I do not think he will
go immediately on another seal-hunt with the Esqui-
maux. Thev cover too much ground in a dav for an
ordinary traveller to compass. They are always trav-
elling, either in the mountains deer-hunting, or over
the snow-clad floes in winter hunting the seal or polar
bear. They are light, strong, and muscular, and are
therefore better fitted to travel the snow and ice tields
than their more unwieldy white brethren. They have,
also, another advantas^e. When tired or fatisrued thev
will lie down on the ice and go to sleep; when hungry
they will open a seal, if they have captured one, drink
a portion of its blood, and eat as much of the meat or
entrails as they want; and thus their strength is re-
stored. I do not say that a white man could not get
along just as well if accustomed to such a life; but he
is not accustomed, and, so far as I am concerned, I do
not want to be.
All hands, except the scientists, were engaged to-
day breaking out the hold of the Florence and getting
things to rights generally. Nep-e-ken arrived this
evening, bringing some seal-meat and one young seal.
He has taken quite a number, but did not bring them
down. lie brought his little boy As-see-wer, who is
named "Boatswain" by the sailors, and who is very
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
103
fond of pork. It has been very warm to-day, the ther-
mometer going np as high as phis 34°. Nep-e-ken
tells me that his bov As-see-wer, who cannot be more
than five years of age, has caught six young seals thi^
spring, and that he successfully hunted them last spring
also. I know that he can chew and smoke equal to
an old tar. Thev commence vouna: in this countrv.
I have seen some of the little girls, not oMer than
this boy, chewing and smoking tobacco. Such thing^;
show the- kind of missionary work that has been done
among these people.
April 13. — Cloudy; light, variable winds, with high
barometer. Thermometer plus 9°. Nep-e-ken left
earlv this mornins: for his sealins: station. Two sleiijhs
arrived from Kickerton Island late last evening. The
party consisted of five persons, men and squaws. The
Esquimaux were not very successful in yesterday's
hunting. Nearly all of them are laid up to-day with
snow-blindness. The natives who arrived last niijht
bring no news of interest, except that there is a scar-
city of seals below and that the Esquimaux are scat-
tering to ditferent parts of the gulf in search of them.
Everything is going on in a dreary, monotonous uni-
formity; no hair-breadth escapes; no comljats with the
polar l)ear. The weather is at t'mes remarkably fine.
I do not think that any climate in the world is supe-
rior to that of the Arctic resfions in the months of
104
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
April, May, and June. This evening all Nature lies
liere in quiet repose, like Innocence asleep.
iiii|
M
April 14. — It is really a beautiful day. The sun has
a peculiar silvery whiteness, like a burnished silver
mirror. Not a cloud is to be seen in the heavens.
According to meteorological theory and the laws ol*
storms, we have several days been at the outer limit
of a great storm. The light, variable winds, the very
tine weather, and the extra-high barometer all signify
this.
Koach's Esquimaux left this morning, "homeward
bound." IIow pleasant the sound of those words!
But how much moi*. pleasant will it be to realize that
we are homeward bound in realitv !
Many of the Esquimaux who have recovered from
their eye-sickness have gone sealing to-da}'. Some of
the men whose eyes are not affected by the brightness
of the sun reflected from the snow-covered mountains
and ice, are off for a quiet stroll over the iloe or on
the land. Kim- mock -kone arrived this afternoon
from his and Inue-mar-ket's sealins: stntion. He came
on foot, and thinks of returning to-morrow. He in-
forms me tliat they have quite a number of young
seals, but I cannot ascertain the number, as few of the
Esquimaux can count beyond six. Nep-e-ken man-
aged to tell me, when he was here, that he had taken
as many as twelve in a day. He conveyed the nunibei*
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
105
by holding np his fingers. I hope to get a number of
these voun<^ seiikskins, as thev make excellent elothinoc ;
but it takes so many to supply them and their fainilies
that I do not know how I shall succeed. .
April 15. — Clear and cold; light breeze from the
north-west. Barometer still vervhin'h; thermometer
minus 3° last ni^'ht. Since removing: the embank-
ment from around the vessel we find it quite cold,
particularly at night, when there is a breeze from the
north or west. It was so wasted l)v the recent warm
weather that I thouiJfht it best to have it and the dirt
which necessarily accumulated removed. Since the
removal of the embankment, if ilie temperature falls
to zero and a light breeze prevjiils. it will freeze quite
hard in the cal)in at niglit when the fires are out. That
is the case about every ni^flit now, as we cannot afibrd
to be too free with our fuel, which is getting low.
There was an aurora last nio-ht about midnii!;ht. I
did not see it, but Mr. Sherman considered it verv in-
teresting, iVom the fact of its hanging over and appa-
rently emeroiiiorfrom some \vater holes, which are keitt
open by the current, to the eastward of the Florence.
The vessel lies with her head to the north and west,
so as to take the wmter storms head and stern, as thev
ijenerallv i)revail from the north-west and south-east.
By dropping the squaresails we make quite a shelter,
when the wind is from tlie western quarter, for those
):
106
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
• ,-
I !
who are at work on deck. Under this shelter Mr. Sis-
son is now at work putting a bone shoeing on the keel
of tlie small boat, as before mentioned. Mr. Burrows
is replenishing our supply of fresh-water ice from the
ponds on the land. We do not use snow water. I
consider it injurious to health.
Not a cloud to be seen ajjain to-dav. The heavens
have a pale, bluish color, and the sun is very bright
and white. Eva has just arrived from the Gloucester
Islands. He brought me a live seal, but the poor lit-
tle fellow was badly bitten by one of the dogs when
he was captured. It is allowance day again, and we
have been harassed all day l)y the squaws, clamoring
for their weeklj' provender.
Tlie Esquimaux have a peculiar way of designat-
inc: or noting distances. For instance, "con-e-took"
means but a short distance, — it mav be one hundred
yards or ten miles; "conino'-twadle" means such a
distance that one does not want to undertake the jour-
ney without steam and good weather; "wes-er-pook"
means such a distance that one was never known to get
to his journey's end; " wes-er-tvvadle" means such a
distance that it is utterly impossible for a man to get
there in his short span of life.
April 16. — Fine weather. Barometer still high;
thermometer last night minus 3°. Beautiful cirro-
stratus clouds to-day. The cirro-stratus is markedly
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
107
a precursor of storms, and from its greater or less
abundance and permanence it gives some indication
of the time when tlie storm may he expected. A very
brilliant aurora was visible last nic^ht, extendinij: IVom
the north-east to the soutli-west.
My little seal is dead. It died last night about mid-
night. The poor little thing was wounded more dan-
gerously than I thought at tii'st. It moaned like a child
in pain, and would look up, with its great round black
eyes, as if imploring reliof from its sufferings. I re-
ceived another live one to-dav, however. lie is a
white-coat, or this spring's seal, prol)al)ly about til'teen
davs old. He is as usrlv and as savas^c as a vounn- do^r,
and will bite at any and everv thini;; within his reach.
He is now on deck sunning himself.
Traded for seven vounsj seals to-dav, brousrht bv u
native from Mollv Kater-nuna. Thev are just as thev
were when taken*, so I have the skins as well as the
meat. Mr. Kumlein is making a drawing of the young
seal that died. Nearly all the Esquimaux were off
huntinsr yesterdav. Last nis^ht they brought back
quite a number of young seals. As I have no goggles
to give them, they fall back on their primitive spec-
tacles. They are made of wood, fitted to the shape of
the nose, or at least that part of the face where the
spectacles will l)ear. There are two slits for the eyes,
with a little shelf projecting over them. They are se-
cured to the head by a seal thong. This contrivance
108
THE CRUISE 01 THE FLORENCE.
I :
I!
I
" ^'11
protects tLe eyes somewhat, but docs not always save
tlieiii from siiow-l)lii.idnes3.
April 17. — Clear weather. Not n cloud to be seen.
The wind is ])l()wing quite strong, with a high barom-
eter and wind north-west. Tliere is so much wind
that the Esquimaux did not go seahng to-day. The
moon fulled vesterdav, with the wind north-west, where
I suppose it will remain the greater part of this moon.
A fine aurrra appeared last night, its arch extending to
and across the moon's disk, although the moon was very
bright at that time. My second seal died last night,
from wliat cause I know not; it* appeared strong and
well. Excepting two of the crt'w — the one with the
sore hand and Lee with his frozen foot — we have not
had a case of sickness since leavins; home.
!' i
April 18. — We are getting our boats from shore to-
day. It is my intention to have them fitted for whaling,
so that at the time we are released from winter quar-
ters — whicli I hope and expect will be as soon as the
15th of July — we will be read}' to take a whale, should
we be fortunate enouc^h to see one. If the ice does not
form a most serious obstruction, I hope to arrive on
the coast of Greenland by the 3d or Gth of August.
I am verv anxious to sret one more whale before we
leave.
It is a very fine, warm day, with light, variable
WINTER IX CUMBERLAND (lULF.
100
m
winds. The Es([iilnKiux are oil on the hunt t(V(hiy.
Every morning I dispiitch the eahin hoy, Charles Ful-
ler, (who, a Hglit delicate youth eiglit months ago, now
weighs, I should think, 170 pounds,) to the shore for
our dailv allowance of meat. He generally hrings
four, and sometimes five seals. These are for one
day's feeding. Tie has a small hand slei<j:h to hring
them on, and every morning regularly this poor, dear
little 170-pounder can he seeh wending his way to the
shore for seal-meat, lie is young, only eigliteen, and
is as round-taced as the full moon ; therefore a great
favorite with the dusky damsels, and will get seal-
meat where others might fail. .'
April 19. — Fhie weather. Last night we had a liglit
fall of snow. A sleigh arrived this morning from
Kater-nuna. It brought no trade, except two small
seal-skins. The Escpnmaux are getting hut few skins
now. The young seals are getting old enough to take
to the water, and many, tlierefore, escape. Pumped
the bilge-water out of the schooner to-day. In the
lower part of the hold the water did not freeze through
the winter. Had we not had a heavy l)ank of snow-
around the vessel — which, of course, excluded the cold
air and prevented the warmth generated by the tires
from escaping — such would notliave been the case.
The thermomete" went up to [)lus 32" yesterday, but
soon fell again. This morning it is plus W^. All
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110
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
hands employed at general ship duty. Mr. Sisson is
coopering barrels and casks. Mr. Burrows and men
are coiling whale-lines and preparing whale-gear. T
was somewhat surprised at the appearance of Two-
poung this morning. This is the squaw who recently
ran away from her husband. She is here again, and
I scarcely know what to do with her, unless I set her
to work making clothing; that will help pay for her
board. Kiiii-mock-kone arrived to-dav, brinofins: some
seal-meat. He returns to-morrow with a re''^force-
ment of dogs, so as to bring the natives back .s the
young sealing is about over. Very soon I may expect
my large family all collected around the schooner.
Oc-a-took and wife left for Molly Kater-nuna this
afternoon, to be gone some days, on a visit to his
mother. This is a young, strong, and intelligent Es-
quimaux. I wish sincerely that I could persuade him
to accompany me to the east coast of Greenland, but
I cannot, on account of his mother, who does not want
him to ofO;
April 20. — Light snow, with light southerly winds.
Kim-mock-kone left early this morning. The ther-
mometer fell last night to plus 3°. The natives have
no dogs, and, it being bad weather, they are not seal-
ino;. .» .
April 21. — Cloudy; light breeze from the south-
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
Ill
east; spittiiis^s of s!iow. It is Sandiiy. We are doing
no work to-day. Some ot the natives are oft" scaling.
Inue-mar-ket, who arrived yesterday from his sealing
station, was unal)le to l)ring all of his seals. He has
gone after them to-day. A sleigh arrived from Molly
Kater-nuna last evening. The weather is very warm
for this time of the season ; {Am 18° this morning. It
is thawing on deck, wliere the cold air does not reach.
I have been trying again to persuade some of the Es-
quimaux to accompany me to the coast of Greenland,
and they promise to do so. We shall see. My " meat
cart" has just arrived, bringing our daily allowance of
meat. It returns to the shore laden with seal-skulls
for Mr. Kumlein, the naturalist.
April 22. — Strong breeze from the south-east, with
snow. The Esquimaux are not sealing, on account of
the bad weather, but have ij;one with a team to brim;
in some seals, buried in the ice, which they captured
son^e time ago. They often, when hunting, kill more
seals than thev are able to brino; back on the sleicrli,
particularly when their dogs are scarce. Some of the
Esquimaux only possess one dog; others two or three.
If one is the proprietor of half a dozen he is considered
rich. We broke out a cask of bread this mornini'',
and were very nuich surprised and disappointed to
find it only partly full. The cask contained whale-
line, flags, and bread, and had not more than one bun-
mmmsam
112
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
(ire J pounds of the latter; whereas had it been full,
as I supposed, there would have l)een nearly four hun-
dred pounds. This is the squaws' allowance day. It
reminds rne of wash dav at home.
M
iil.::
April 23. — Clear and sunshiny. Were employed
to-day at ship duty. Oc-a-took returned last night
from Kater-nuna. Inue-mar-ket has orone with a team
ot dogs to assist Nep-e-ken in bringing his family
and the seals he has causrht to the schooner. Only
two of the natives are sealing to-day. Ar-but, one of
the natives belonging to the l)rig Alert, Captain Wat-
son, came here to-dav. lie has been eni^asred at vouuij:
sealiuiJ!: in this vicinitv durinsr the last month. A few
davs as:o he unfortunatelv cut otl' the end of his third
finsrer. lie came here to have it doctored. He broudit
six vouno: seal, skins and all, as a fee. I have «fot the
seals and he has departed satisfied.
u
m
m
April 24. — Cvloud}', but pleasant and warm weather;
light north-east wind. We were employed to-day at
repairing the vessel. Most of the Esquimaux are out
sealing.
April 25. — Clear and fine. Light breeze from the
north-east. This has been a warm spring, and an
exceptional one. I was employed to-day doins: some
little carpenter work ai'ound the Florence, repairing
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND HULF.
113
stoariiig-goar, kc. Nop-o-kon retuniod last evening
from liiH young-sealing expedition, lie has been very
successful. This morning I got (juite a immber of seals
from him, and have set the squaws at work skinning
and drying them. They are drying in the sun, the
only curing process they undergo. We have now no
night proper. It is dusky at midnight, or what we
would call midnight if it was dark. Last nierht at 12
o'clock it was light enough to see to read large print.
We have had a regular storm of Es({uimaux this after-
noon at dinner. None of the men are sealinof to-dav.
They are taking a holiday, I su[)pose. to commemorate
their success in the young sealing. Men, s(piaws, and
children to the number of twentv-two were here at
dinner, — quite a large family. They dine, of course,
after we are throm^h. The elite come first here as well
as elsewhere, — they have the best; then the ordinary
follow, — they have second Ix^st; then the squaws and
children, and they have third best, whicli amounts to
little. The sun has a hazy appea : ace this evening,
which portends a storm, I fear.
April 26. — Cloudy; light breeze from the westward,
accompanied by snow. Last evening the wind hauled
to the south-east, and some little snow fell througli the
nii^ht. This mornins^ the wind is as above, but I tliink
it is only a local breeze, as the weather is too warm
8
114
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
P' 1 I
i'or westerly winds. Water is running on the schoon-
er's deck. The Esquimaux are housed,
April 27. — We liave a strong breeze to-day tVoni
the north-west, with severe squalls. We were eni-
l)loved in getting ice for drinking purposes. Eg-e-low
returned last evening from young sealing. He brought
many seals. The natives are all here now, to the num-
ber of twenty-five — men, women, and children. Our
bread disappears very fixst. All opportunities for
spring whaling have been lost through my desire to
keep the Esquimaux away from the influences of those
who are inimical to the undertaking. I have another
one of my crew partly laid up. The cabin boy, I fear,
is threatened with a felon on one of his fingers. We
can laugh at the scurvy, but sore fingers abound.
April 28. — We have a strong and cold wind from
the north. The sun occasionally shines, but the weather
is in the main cloudy. Thermometer fell to minus 7°
last night, if one may call all daylight night. It is
Sunday. The cleaning and drying of skins go on as
fast as the weather will permit. I received twenty
young seals from Inue-mar-ket this morning.
April 29. — It is clear, with a strong breeze from the
north-west. Thermometer last night minus 1". The
wind makes it very unpleasant. It feels almost as
i! ai:i
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
115
cold as when niimis 40°. Allowance (lav. Two fanii-
lies are about to start on a visit to Xiantilic to see
their friends. It was light enon^li last night when the
sun was making the circunipolar circuit to read at
midnight.
ii
April 30. — April has taken its departure in rather
a rough manner. It is snowing quite fast, and the
temperature being high enough to thaw the snow as
it comes in contact with the skin or with clothing, of
course it is very unpleasant. Noiie of the Esquimaux
are hunting, and they have postponed their contem-
plated journey to Niantdic. I v/as prepared to send
a sleigh to Kickerton Islanci, but that, too, nuist be
postponed on account of the weather. Thu time drags
heavily and wearily. I could be in a manner content
if I were oidy sure of success. I lie down niglits and
thiiik, and then, fading asleep, dream of what should
be done to insure success; but all amounts to a head-
ache in the end.
■r^j
m
May 1. — It has been a beautiful day, the sun shining
brightly and the w^ind blowing slightly from the north-
west, with a cloudless skv. Yesterdav afternoon tlie
wind hauled to the west and snow ceased fallinir.
Through the night the wind blew quite strong; at its
maximum, al)out thirty miles an hour. It was quite
cold also, minus 5°; but this, the tirst of May, is
i*
IW
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
fii
■t I
Bpleudid, with its warm snn and liglit wind. We
commenced on our next to the last cask of coal to-
day. We have enough to last, prol)al)ly, six weeks.
Nep-e-ken and family and Mr. Kundein started for
the Kickertons this morning. I have written to Captain
Roach, of that station, to send me up a large sleigh —
one that is capal>le of carrying a heavy cask. I shall
try to save some of the l)kibher of the whale killed
last fall. We had an increase in our familv last nio^ht.
Polly, (Kim-ik-pak-jic,) wife of Ete-tun, w^as delivered
of a male child in the night. Both mother and child,
I believe, are doing well. This will prevent tlieir
going to Niantilic, as they contemplated. Inue-mar-
ket and family and Chummy have gone, however.
Mav 2. — Fine weather; clear and cold. The ther-
mometer fell last night to minus 9°. The wind is
from the north-west. It is bright and sunshiny. Em-
ployed at setting u[) a cask. None of the Esquimaux
out seahng to-day, I suppose, on aceount of some
superstitious notion. The mother and the late addi-
tion to the ship's company are doing well. The season
is more backward than I anticipated. Everything is
as vet covered with its winter coat of snow. It will
be a relief to see once more the bare rocks and the
blue sea. Mr. Sherman is making preparations to
observe the transit of Mercury across the sun, which
occurs May 6. ..
H
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
117
May 3. — Fair weather, l)iit nothing to hoast of.
Cirrus clouds, denotinor wind. Strono; wind vesterdav
afternoon from west and south-west. The thermom-
eter did not fall to zero; plus 9° was the lowest point
reached. A tOT of the Esquimaux went sealing this
mornins:. Of course we have l)ut a few dogs to work
with, as the travellers to Kickerton and Niantihc cai'-
ried off all hut six, and one of them I have on board,
she liaving given hirth to young last night. I ho[)e to
save these pups, as they will he excellent dogs to carry
on the expedition. We still keep up Ihe system of
two meals a day. AVe are compelled to do so on
account of the 2:rowini? scarcitv of both food and fuel.
We have plenty of meat, Init l)read must be used with
economy.
%
May 4. — Cloudy, warm weatlier. A light, variable
wind prevails. Inue-mar-ket returned last night. lie
did not go any farther than Kater-nuna. Chunmiy
continued on to Niantilic. The Es(|uimaux returned
last night, bringing four seals, the spoil of the day's
hunt. They are not off to-day, the most of them
being troubled with ophthalmia. I lost three of my
young puppies last night. I sup[)Ose they got chilled
with cold throui>:h the neij:lect of the mother. The re-
maining four are doing well. Employed to-day over-
haulins: all the schooner's ^'car. We find it in rather
a bad condition. The two men with sore hands and
118
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
i -1^
m *^
ill
ti f
the one with sore foot are convalescing slowly. I con-
sider the saving of Lee's foot next to miraculous.
Ete-tun-winger, husband of Kim-ik-pak-jic, came
to me this mornino; and wished me to «rive him some
bread for his wife. I gave it to him. He stood a few
moments and verj' delicately hinted that Polly — -we
alwaj's call her "Polly" — would like a little butter
(aksunk) to eat with ^her bread. I gave him a little
butter, but it was evident that his errand was not fin-
ished. He was fidgety. In a few moments he hauled
out one of the cast-away pepper-boxes of the steward's
and requested me to give him a small quantity of sugar
for his wife. I gave it to him. The poor squaw must
sufl:er a great deal from the effects of her late confine-
ment. It is very evident, however, that they are get-
tinsr civihzed fast.
At noon to-day, the sun being out and quite bright,
I concluded to try the thermometer in the sun's rays
alongside of the schooner. For that purpose I hung
it on the port side of the vessel, suspending it by a
string, the instrument being 'n its box, the box leaning
against the black-painted side of the schooner and ele-
vated four feet from the ice. It rose to plus 73°. I then
placed the thermometer on the other side of the vessel,
in the shade, and in about the same position in regard
to the ice. It fell to plus 35° — a difference of 38°. I
then buried the thermometer, it being in the box, one
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
Ill)
foot deep in the snow. It fell to plus 28°. On shore
Mr. Sherman's thermometer read at noon plus 24°.
1:
May 5. — We have a bright and beautiful day.
Scarcely a cloud is to be seen. Although we have
generally fine and warm days, we have also cool
nights. We call it " night," from habit, though it be
not dark. The sun gives us but very little heat when
low in the northern horizon. Last night the thernioni-
eter fell to plus 5°. This morning shortly after sunrise
it read plus 20°. Chummy arrived last night from
the south. Tes-e-wane and his wife also came from
Niantilic, bringing me a few skins. I left a quan-
tity of trade with him last fall for the purpose of
procuring skins. This is the second time he has sent
me some.
The vessels that wintered at Niantilic succeeded in
getting into the water in the latter part of March or
the fore part of April, and they are now at the tloe
edge. As yet they have not taken any whales. One
of them — the steamer — is frozen in the floe nearly in
the centre of the gulf
It is Sunday. Everything is rpiiet. Some of the
men are taking a stroll on the ice ; others on the shore.
Some few of the Esquimaux are off sealing. Mr.
Kumlein and Nep-e-ken, with all the party who went
to the Kickertons, arrived here this evening. They
had not as good travelling as they anticipated. They
- I
I
i I
;
i-k
It ;
120
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
were twentv-three hours in reachincf there. The^'
staid there one dav and then started on their return.
They were forced to sleep on the ice last night.
Captain Roach has sent nie a hirge sleigh ; also some
flags to Hag casks with. Captain Hall sent nie a
fine lot of coffee mugs or drink cups ; also a crow-
])ar, of which we were in need. They are anxious-
ly looking for whales, but as yet have seen none.
All the vessels, I understand, liave been frozen in the
vouns: ice in and about the centre of the li-ulf Onlv
two have succeeded in o'cttinii; out of it.
Mr. Knndein's expethtion to the Kickertons was
not void of good, as he was fortunate in collecting
some rare specimens. Among the collection wiis one
fine large bear's head, skeletons of the netzik seal and
oog-jook, and some fossil remains of marine animals
from Kennedy Lake. As it is not generally known,
I will here mention that the vouna: of the licarded
seal — or "oog-jook," as the Esquimaux call it — sheds
its coat of dark-blue hair before birth.
!■■ !
t i
May (3. — The sun was clear and bright this morning.
{Shortly after sum'ise, however, a light breeze sprang
u[) from the north-east, bringing with it a damp fog.
The only instrument Mr. Sherman had for observing
the transit of Mercury was a three-inch terrestrial tel-
escope. We were employed to-day setting up rigging.
The work [)rogresses very slowly, and it is quite warni.
I
I
IWII I
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
121
Owing to the warm air and the foc^ conil)ine{l the snow
is disappearing rapidly. At 4 o'clock in tlie afternoon
the fog became dense, and has nndonl^tedh' interrupt-
ed Mr. Sherman's observations. He saw tlie greater
portion of the transit, however. This has been allow-
ance, or squawk's day.
May 7. — Cloudy, with some little haze; the siin,
however, shining occasionally. A bright parlielit^n was
observed this morning ; also cirrus clouds. So we
may look for a storm soon. A sleigh arrived from
Kater-nuna, brinsrino^ me seventv skins of youmii; seals,
which I traded for. Most of the Esquimaux are seal-
ing today. Tes- -wane started on his return to the
south, and I am not sorry; for not only are the Esqui-
maux a great deal of trouble, Init so many dogs around
the schooner make the night hideous. Empbyed to-day
in getting fresh-water ice, coopering casks, and rcpair-
inc^ sails.
May 8. — Ilazv, warm weather. Thermometer iilus
46°. The ice is, of course, wasting very fast undcn* the
combined inHuences of lieat and currents. Here at
AnnanaTook the current is very strong, and I expect
the Florence will l)e afloat long l)eibre the gulf ice
will allow us to depart from the harbor. It will need
some care to prevent her from being^Bhoved on shore
by these floating masses of ice. We are pi'e[)aring to
1
I
■Hi
122
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
;i i
■ \
go to the whale and try to save some of the bhihber.
Of course in this matter we have to depend upon the
Esquimaux for help. If it was not for them I could
do nothing with the whale ; in fact, I could accomplish
but very little here in any matter without their aid.
They returned late last night from sealing, l)ringing
some half-dozen seals. They are preparing to vacate
their snow iglaus, which have sheltered them during
the winter, and betake themselves to their skin huts
or "tapigs" — their summer residences.
Ww^
.
''WW^n'
■i
•
May 9. — Cloudy and foggy. It has evidently been
storminoj durino^ the last three davs around and near
US, but, excepting a light fall of snow and a hea\'y fog
which hangs around and over the land, we have not felt
or seen any of its effects. Thermometer yesterday plus
48°; this morning plus 36°; last night it did not fall
below 27°. The burgomaster -gulls have made their
appearance. So, too, the little snowbirds. They have
been, to the south of us, near and about the water for
the last month. Man}' ducks are swimming near the
floe edge. Everything has a lively and spring-like ap-
pearance. The wind is from the south. It looks dark
and heavy down the gulf. Some few of the Esquimaux
are sealing; others are busy getting their tapigs or
summer huts read\'. The warm weather has likewise
destroyed the sifow covering of the observatory, and
? 'Ml
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
128
its occupants have to rely upon the bare canvas foi-
shelter.
Ma*y 10. — The weather still remains thick; snow,
fog, and southerly wind. It is so warm, however, that
the snow melts about as fast as it falls. The weather
is bad for drying skins, and little progress is made in
that direction. It is a bad time for the Esquimaux,
as they are continually kept wet by the falling and
melting snow, which keeps their tapigs in a dirty and
wretched condition. They brought some few seals last
night or this morning; for they were gone until morn-
ing. Cracks are opening in the ice. Here and there,
too, are some little pools of water. For several hours
this afternoon a heavy rain fell, and during the con-
tinuance of the storm there was scarcely a dry spot to
be found in the vessel's cabin. The cold, dry, frosty
weather of winter has so shrunken the wood-work tliat
water is free to enter. I can call to mind but one
rain-storm in my experience in the Arctic regions in
the month of May, and that, I think, was in 1861.
We have washed decks all day, the tirst time in 1878.
May 11. — Still cloudy and thick. Rain fell the
entire niffht. We had a strong breeze from the south
last night, which has moderated to-day. I sent two
sleighs, carrying seven casks, down to the whale. If
124
THE CRUISE OF THE FLOFENCE.
the weather is fUvorable the Esquimaux will follow
to-morrow.
If'
Mav 12. — AVind still stroni? from the south-east.
Some little rain fell last evening. The Esquimaux
returned with the two sleighs at 11 p. m. It is Sunday.
All quiet.
May 13. — Heavy southerly wind. I dispatched one
sleigh-load of casks to the whale this morning. Esqui-
maux otf sealing yesterday. They brought back a few
seals. Four of them have not returned vet. It is
quite, warm, and the ice is wasting fast. Many gulls
and ducks were seen to-day. They are on their way
to the holes cut through the ice by the currents in
this vicinity. If this southerly wind continues much
longer I fear the pack-ice of Davis's Strait will enter
the irulf
May 14. — Somewhat foggy this morning, but as the
sun gained strength the fog disappeared, and it is now
warm and sunny. Kim-mock-koue returned at mid-
night from carrying casks to the whale. Al-o-kee
started this morning for the Kickertons to procure a
wife. This native promises to go to the East Land, or
coast of Greenland, to join the expedition there. He
is desirous of a wife before he starts. I shall be com-
pelled to wait until he returns before I can send down
WINTER IN CUxMBEULAND (JULF.
n2b
to the wliale, on account of the scarcity of dogs. We
were eniplo3'ed to-day painting hoats, coo[)ering casks,
&c.
May 15. — Weather somewhat thick; wind soutl>
east; snow this niornini^. The weather is verv warm,
even when the sum is low; at night ice scarcely makes.
This warm, sultry weather prevents the drying and
curins: of skins, and I much fear we shall lose many
from that cause. I to-day dispatched a sleigh with a
load of casks to the whale. •
• -
' Mav 16. — The weather is fine and warm, with lii^ht
southerlv wind. The sun is extremely hot, and this,
of course, denotes more southerly or easterly weatlier.
Nep-(3-ken, my namesake, has started with all the male
Esquimaux — to the nund:>er of ten — down to the
whale. If it is not possible to cut up the carcass, they
will seal a few days. All the squaws are busy making
tapigs and cleaning and drying skins. We are em-
ployed to-day coopering casks, painting tlie l)oats, and
dryinir the skin-clothins:, wliich latter had been some-
what damp.
May 17. — -Cloudy; southerly wind, with snow. The
remarkably warm weather has brought forth new
grass. Some flowers are also making their appear-
ance on the southern exposures. Flies are abundant.
aij i n i njffiii i M i U M W M
126
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
*»■. '.
Snow disappears as fast as it falls. Wc are on our
last cask of coal. It now contains about one-third of
a ton. Mr. Kunilein's forefinger of the left hand is
quite sore. This makes the third man in the crew so
afflicted. One of the three came very near losing the
use of his hand for life, and I greatly fear he will lose
the use of one finger, notwithstanding all the care that
has been bestowed upon him.
May 18. — Sky overcast ; weather quite warm ; light
airs from the west. We had a little hail hist evening.
Al-o-kee returned last nis^ht from his seaw3h after a
wife. He did not succeed in finding one. This morn-
ing he started for the whale, to join his brother Esqui-
maux. No news of interest from the Kickertons. We
have some half-dozen barrels of seal blubber, collected
from the Esquimaux. We were employed to-day get-
itig fresh-water ice from, the land, making a water
butt, &c.
in >■[
May 19. — Sky still overcast. Yesterday, toward
evening, the westerly wind increased to a moderate
gale, accompanied at times by snow. Through the
night the thermometer fell to plus 18°. It is a warm
day and we have southerly wind. I hear nothing from
Nep-e-ken and his party. His wife ( 0-cas-e-ak-j u )
sent for me last night to attend her little son, who
was taken suddenly ill. I found him in a high fever.
WINTER IN CUMDERLAND GULF.
127
He had probiibly tiiken cold playing in the damp snow.
He is somewhat better this morniiis;. It is Sunday,
and no work, of course, is going on. The men cleaned
themselves up a little and took a stroll.
May 20. — Yesterday the soutlierly wind gradually
increased until night, when it culminated in a gale.
We had all varieties of weather — rain, hail, snow, and
sleet' — until 3 o'clock this morning, when the wind sud-
denly hauled to the west, where it is now. Snow con-
tinues to fall and water is making fast. The currents
and almost unprecedented warm weather are doing
their work of destruction, and its results are visible
from hour to hour. It is now unsafe to venture on
the ice on the port side of the vessel, it is so wasted.
Holes miles in extent have formed to the north and
west. The ice on the south, oi' dowii the gulf, is as
vet firm and strono;. In a few davs all the ice in the
head of the gulf will be wasted away, leaving, how-
ever, miles of it still tirndy adhering to the land be-
low us.
Eva, accompanied by another native and his squaw,
came from Kater-nuna last nisrht. Thev had consid-
erable difficulty in getting here on account of the
wasted condition of the ice. Eva brought me only
three skins. The travelling has been so bad that he
failed to get the skins which he had cached near Ken-
nedy Lake. The otlier native brought me sixteen
128
THE CKUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
Jl ^?
ft:i 'i
skins of voniiijr seals and one deer-skin. Tliese twenty
skins I consider worth a liundred dollars to the expe-
dition. The two Esqniniaux have heard somewhere
that the ])avis Strait pack-ice is in the gulf. I hope
the rnnior will prove untrue. It is quite cool again
this evening. Thernionieter plus 20°.
May 21.^-Quite clear and cold. The thernionieter
fell last night to plus 15°. It re.ad plus 20° this morn-
inir. We have a stroni^^ breeze from the north-west,
and every evidence of moi'e wind. If it does no otlier
good, I sincerely hope it will clear the gulf of pack-
ice. The flies, whicli were so abundant a few days
ago, have disappeared, the cold snap having killed
them.
At 5 o'clock p. M. Nep-e-ken and his party, all but
two, returned from the whale. ()c-a-took and l?e-ker
went to get some deer-meat which they buried in the
mountains last summer. Thevwill also look for deer.
Nep-e-ken informs me that the shore ice around the
whale is still very heavy, and he proposes to postpone
the cutting up until a more auspicious time. The par-
ty encamped one night on the ice going down and one
night coming back. They re[)ort the ice very mucli
wasted, even as low down as they have been. Indeed,
Nep-e-ken says he never before saw it so rotten at this
time in the year. The ice alonsr the shore above low-
WTNTKR IN CUMHEHLAND (ll'LF.
120
water mark lies in larujr, licavv, hrokeii marfsos, and
under one of these tlie whale is lyinff.
Mav 22. — We have tine weather to-dav; licfht ])reeze
troni the north-west, and elear hut eool. Tl e ther-
inonu'ter fell last night to plus 15°. We were em-
ployed to-day cleaning the hone from the whale's
head. We find the slahs a little over ten feet in
length. It is not as large a head as I had hoped. The
slahs from a very large head will measure from eleven
to thirteen feet, and the Jaw-l)()nes of a large whale
will measure from seventeen to sevontv feet. The
two Esquimaux, Pe-ker and ()c-a-t<jok, retni*ned late
last night, or early this morning. The cahin hoy fell
through the ice yesterday while going asliore for our
supply of meat. While I am writing this the wind
hauls to the south-east. There are indications of had
weather asrain. We are certainlv havinii; a trvini?
time (^f it this spring. One bad spell of weather fol-
lows another in quick succession. Under the com-
bined action of warm and bad weather and currents,
I do not think the ice can last longer than the 15lh of
June. That is one month earlier than it generally
disappears in the gulf. This evening I went on shore
to ascertain, if possible, something about that deer-
meat. I found it, but concluded to let it remain, as it
was rather too old for our use.
9
-m^^
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130
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
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May 23. — We have light southerly winds and snow
to-day. It is quite warm.
May 24. — Very fine weather to-day; light easterly
winds; sun very hot. This morning the thermometer
in the sun read plus 70°. Kuck-oo-jug and son started
for the Kickerton Islands this morning. Nep-e-ken and
three others have gone to the whale. They will hring
back the lines, tubs, and whaling-gear which were left
there last fall. I expect another south-east storm by
to-morrow.
. n
f i
Mav 25. — The storm anticipated vesterdav from the
south-east did not come. Instead, we have a strong
breeze from the wTst. Yesterdav afternoon or evenim^
the dark, heav}' bank of clouds which was seen down the
gulf from early morning came rolling up to the north
and west, covering the entire sky. We all looked for
a severe storm and hoped to have better weather after
it, but we were disappointed. It was quite looI this
morning. Thermometer read plus 2.!i°. Two Esqui-
maux arrived from the Ivickertons yesterdav even-
iug. They report nothing doing there, and that no
whales have been seen. 8ome of the Esquimaux are
quite sick, and the ankoots are, therefore, hard at work.
Mav 26. — This is what mav be termed ''varietv"
weather. Yesterday we had a strong, cold wind from
I
jem:^"-; ',
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
131
the north-west, which abated in the evenincr. The
clouds again rolled up from the south and east lo tlie
north. At 12 midnight frozen snow fell. The wind
veered quickly to the north and west and blew with
violence. It is in the same quarter to-day, but it is
somewhat more moderate. The Esquimaux who
came from the south day before yesterdav are not
from the Kickertons, as I supposed, but from Sha-meer,
a place a little to the north of Cape Storey, the north-
ern cape at the entrance to the gulf. They report a
great deal of ice in Davis's Stniit. They brought
two very line bear-skins to the Florence, one from'^an
old bear and the other from a young one. Tlie mer-
cury fell to plus 18° last night. Ice made in tlie
washing vessel in my state-i-oom. We keep no tire
hi pleasant weather, as there is no coal to spare. It
is Sunday. We are doing nothing, excepting, of
course, the scientilic woi'k, which never stops.
JMay 27. — Fair weather; light breeze from the
north-we.st. It was cool last night; mercury phis 30°.
I sjiy "night"; of course we have no night, the sun
merely dipping tlie northern vi]<XL^ of the horizon. We
are still employed cleaning the whjdel)one. Wc find
it very dirty. Xep-e-ken, Kte-tun, Al-o-kee, Chum-
my, and Inue-mar-ket all promise to acconqijinv me
to the coast of Greenhujd, and are making i)re[iara-
tions to do so.
132
THE CRUISE OF TiiE FLORENCE.
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May 28. — To-clay we have cloudy weather, with
light hreeze from the south-east. We were employed
repairing sails. All the male Esquimaux except two
have heen awav for several davs; some deer-huntinir,
others seal-huntincc. The two remaininsr at the schoon-
er are Ete-tun and Oc-a-took. The latter is sick. Mr.
8herman has been surveying the harbor and vicinity
imd taking the altitudes of the prominent headlands.
Froze quite hard last night.
May 29. — We had quite a gale of wind from tho
south-east last nisrht. Three inches of snow fell. The
wind is to the south to-day and more moderate. It
looks wild and bad down the gulf. Two Esquimaux
returned from a deer and seal hunt last ni2:ht. Thev
killed one deer and several seals. Ete-tun, who
went out vesterdav, brouii^ht back four seals. Not-
withstanding: the southerlv wind, the mercurv fell to
phis 24° last night. It thawed freely this morning.
Broached a tierce of hams to-dav, the first we have
used. The wind blew at the rate of thirtv-tive miles
an hour this evening. It is snowing, and the snow is
drilling.
i
May 30. — Cloudy ; light precipitation of snow, with
varial)le wind. Nep-e-ken and party returned last
niglit, bringing our whale-lines and tubs. Al-o-kee
also I'eturned from Kickerton Islands. He r
eports no
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
133
whales as yet. The Esquimaux brought in some few
seals. They inform me that the ice is in such a rotten
condition that they are unable to seal upon it with any
fair chance of success. It is certainly bad enough in
this immediate vicinity. It is dismal, dreary weather.
May 31.~Fair to-day; quite a strong breeze from
the west. Employed cleaning bone, repairing sails,
&c.
June 1 .—Cloudy ; light south-east wind. We were
employed again to-day cleaning bone, repairing sails,
&c. It was quite cold last night, and the temperature
was but little higher this moruimr.
June 2. — The south-east wind of yesterday increased
to a gale last night and was accompanied by hail and
sleet. The ice to the north of Annanatook has so
wasted that holes of water miles in extent are visible.
Last night the ice outside of the harbor, and for a long
distance to the south and ^east, gave way and drifted
to the north into these vacant places. This has af-
forded us quite a sea of water, which is not now mpre
than seventy yards from the stern of the Florence.
Some miles below this, again, there is a solid barrier"
of ice, extending from shore to shore and some iifty
or sixty miles north-west, and vice versa, still adherin"-
to the land. It is, of course, uncertain when this will
I
134
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
i
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give way; ])ut I do not think it can remain long,
with water to the north and south of it.
Kuck-oo-jng and son, who went to the Kickertons
some days a^o, arrived last nis^ht. Thev had to make
a long circuit to the westward, and came up the south
shore, where the ice is still quite firm. I received a
letter from Captain Hall by Ivuck-oo-jug. He in-
formed me that the pack-ice of Davis's Straits has
been up to the \<^r- odge or fast ice ; that only lately
it has drifted awa> avins: them a chance to ii:et their
boats in the water to look for whales. He thinks the
pack-ice is but a short distance below Warren's Island.
As no whales are seen at the Kickertons, he supposes
they are in the loose pack below.
The wind is still in the south-east, weather thick,
and snow falling.
June 3. — We cannot complain of the weather to-
day. It is very fine, with light, warm, variable winds.
We broke the wasted ice around the vessel and hauled
her to a safer position. The ice was so wasted on
each side of the schooner for some distance that it
was diflicult to get on or off the vessel. Yesterday
we had to use the small boat to break away between
•
the vessel and the firm ice. We were employed to-
day getting everything off the ice and stowed in the
hold, to be ready for a general break-up.
WINTER IN CITMIJERLAND GULF.
135
June 4. — The light, variable wind and fine weather
of yesterday did not last lono^. Toward evenini; the
wind settled in the south-east and blew hard. At (J
o'clock p. M. it was blowing at the rate of thirty-six
miles an hour, and it continued at this rate through
the night. Some of the squalls must have travelled
fifty miles an hour. The wind blows directlv into the
harbor. All the broken ice outside — and there were
many miles of it— has gone to the north. The i^ale
was not so violent this morning, but was still strong,
with thick snow. The ice on the port side of the ves-
sel has given away; also that attached to the little isl-
and about sixty yards to the south of the us. AH of
this ice is now pressing on the vessel, which is in turn
pressing on the still-fost harbor ice to the north. We
are in no immediate danger, however. The ice has
given way a month earlier than usual. This has de-
stroyed the sealing, the best month for that purpose
being June. Of course, without ice very few seals
are captured.
The strong belt of ice down the gulf is still fast.
If it had given way it would have come to the north
with the southerly wdnd.
June 5. — The wind continued to blow all dav yes-
terday, and was accompanied by snow, hail, sleet, and
rain. At 12 o'clock midniglit snow connnenced fall-
ing in earnest, and lay as it fell. This morning at 8
ni
M~:
■■
136
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
■., I 1 'I
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o'clock six inches of snow luicl fallen. At 12 o'clock
meridian it was still snowing fast. We hove up one
anchor to-day, washed deck, and are getting ready for
a general tear-up. The ice is so wasted that one can
scarcely reach the shore, and then it is done at the risk
of falling through. Outside of the harbor it is all pack-
ice, drifting with currents and wind.
June 6. — Shortly after 12 o'clock yesterday the wind
veered to the north-west, and it continued to blow, ac-
companied by snow, till 2 o'clock this morning, when
the snow ceased, the wind keeping up. The sun shines
to-day, but it is quite cold. Thermometer last night
read plus 23°. The land, which was getting clear of
snow, is entirely covered again. We were employed
to-day freeing the vessel and boats from snow and ice.
Mr. Sherman still travels to and fro between the
vessel and the shore to take his observations, though"
he does so at the risk of a wet jacket. The Esqui-
maux men manage as yet to get out to the schooner
and their meals. The women and children do not
venture.
June 7. — Weather quite tine to-day; light breeze
from north-west. Mr. Kumlein was off with the small
boat collecting specimens. The ice has closed and
shut otf his passage to the vessel. At 6.30 p. m. he
was trying to haul the boat over the ice to the open
III ii
WINTER IN CUxMBERLAND GULF.
137
water near the schooner. We were occii[)ied witli
general ship work.
June 8. — Rain conuiienced falling this niorning and
it continued all day. Some of the Esquimaux are
sealing, among the drifting cakes of ice, in kyacks and
the small hoat. Mr. Ivumlein shot some few ducks
and sandpipers and a glaiicus-gall yesterday.
June 9. — Clear and fine. Rained nearly all night.
Thermometer reads plus 55°. Mr. Kumlein is off for
specimens, and some few of the Esquimaux are seal-
ing to-day. Nep-e-ken l)rought me two hurgomaster-
gull's eggs last night.
June 10. — It was calm and quite warm in the
niorning. Toward evening a strong hreeze si)rang up
from the north-west. Some of the Esquimaux are
deer-hunting; others are sealing. Nep-e-ken hi'ought
one brent-goose to the vessel this evening. It is the
first one I ever saw in Cumberland Gulf. Nep-e-ken,
however, has seen them here before.
Engaged in sawing ice to-day to clear the vessel.
I heard water running freely down the mountain side
yesterday for the first time this season. Noticed nu-
merous burgomaster-gulls and ducks around the pack
or broken ice outside the harbor. There are indica-
tions of a storm this evenino;.
li
L'^ -. "■a.'jnii i yi'ir'a -msr .
m
138
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
I :
iji
June 11. — Wind quite heavy to-day from north-
west. At 11.30 A. M. the ice to the west of the schoon-
er started and quickly fouled our hawser. It contained
many acres, and, therefore, pressed the vessel heav-
ily. Everything was prepared for just such an occur-
rence, however. Bending on our buoy rope, we let
the cable run, and, hoisting jib and foresail, we were
once more under v/ay. The water makes from the
w^est side of Annanatook Harbor to the north shore
in a semicircle. There is orood workins: room for a
vessel while north-west winds prevail, as they drive all
loose ice down the gulf until it meets the solid barrier
below. Into this water we lay under short sail until
the ice drifted out of the harbor, and then we returned
to our anchorage. The vessel is light, which compelled
us to work under short .sail. On rounding the point
to return to the anchoraije we found it necessarv to set
the mainsail. It was reefed, but it keeled the schoon-
er until the lee boats were in the water. I think that
in some of the squalls the wind travelled sixty miles
an hour.
Shortly after returning to our anchorage I attempt-
ed to go on shore. The ice in the inner harbor is
quite good as yet, but it seems I found a weak spot in
it, for I got a cold bath before reaching the shore.
The ice down the gulf appears to be solid and firm.
T nuist try and secure the schooner's safety as soo!i as
ill
WINTER IX CUMIiERLAND (JULF.
139
the weather moderates. There is too much current
here; hence a great deal of heavy drift ice.
June 12. — The gale still continues, and it is hlowing
very heavy. We are lying l)y one anchor, as we were
unable to get the buoyed one last evening. The ice
in the north section of the harbor still holds. The
scientiiic observations are still kept up. It is only
about one hundred yards from the vessel to the fast
ice, which still remains in the inner harbor, and about
three hundred yards more to the shore, where the
observatory is situated. By manning a boat strong
we can pull to the fast ice, land on it, and walk to the
shore. Although the wind is strong the sea is not
rough. The wind is directly otf the land, and, sur-
rounded as we are by land and ice, no sea can rise.
June 13. — We have still a strong breeze from the
north-west. Everything remains about the same. The
ice at the head of the harbor still holds, but, fearimr
It might come down upon the Florence and cause her
to slip from her only anchor, we cut or sawed a dock
in the ice in the inner harl)or after Ijreakfast this morn-
ing, which ice still holds firm and strons^. Bv 12 me-
ridian we had the Florence safe in the dock. I do not
^- think that the drifting ice can cause any trouble here,
as we he in a snug little cul-de-sac, and, for the present,
are clear of drift ice. This evening there is very little
[ '
140
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
i *, l>
h
•U 'i
wind, but the weather has a baleful, sombre ap[>ear-
ance, and the thermometer is still inclined downward.
After securing the schooner, we broke out the hold
and stowed back, to be in readiness to take aboard
some fresh water. We also repaired the gaff of the
mainsail, which we found badly split at the jaws.
June 14. — Last night the wind came on very sud-
denly from the south-east, bringmg snow and sleet.
This morning it ceased and we have a light wind from
the north-west, and, according to the appearance of
the sky, a promise of plenty more. Emphwed to-day
in hauling water and stowing it, preparatory to getting
under way. It will be necessary, if we carr^' natives
and dogs to the coast of Greenland, to take a large
supply of water. Al-o-kee and Eg-e-low arrived from
the Kickerton Islands last night. They report that
one of the sealing steamers from Scotland has entered
the gulf for whales, having failed in the sealing.
June 15. — Quite a breeze last night, which contin-
ued up to 3 o'clock to-day. Some of the Esquimaux
have returned from deer-hunting. They killed two
deer; two that were wounded escaped. We were em-
ployed to-day scraping, scouring, and washing the
schooner preparatory to painting. Early this morn- ,■
ing, when the breeze was the strongest, the whole
mass of ice at the head of the outer harbor gave way
WINTER IN CUMIJERLANU UULF.
141
and drifted out. We would have luid trouble had we
remained at our former anchorage, luit in tliis quiet
little nook we are safe, at least for the present. The
wind is again to the soutli-east this evening.
June 16*.— Last night tlie south-east wind l)rought
sleet, rain, and snow. Tliis morning the wind was to
the north-west. In tlie afternoon it conmienced to
blow hard, with snow and sleet. We certainlv have
bad weather. The Esquimaux returned last night from
duck-shooting, bringing some few (hicks. We are pre-
serving the skins for foot-gear.
June 17. — All last night we had snow and sleet, and
I think at times it might have been called rain. We
had the wind from about every quarter. This morn-
ing the wind settled in the north-west, and from this
quarter it continued to blow. The weather is so un-
settled that we cannot do anything. We have prepared
the vessel for painting, Init cannot paint in such weather.
The Esquimaux cannot lumt, nor can the squaws dry or
cure skins.
June 18. — All kinds of weathei . Last nidit the
wind turned to the south and east. We have had
snow, hail, sleet, and rain. Mr. Kumlein, with a na-
tive, went off in the little boat and brought back five
ducks, two divers, and a gull. Nep-e-ken also shot sev-
l!l
: i
W i
(1^
142' THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
eral on the ice close to tlie schooner. We had duck for
dinner, whale-meiit for breakfast, and I think we will
have lobster for hnich — canned, however. All we
needed to make a full bill of fare was fog, and that is
coining now.
June 19. — Varietv weather. Last nidit we ]. '.
wind from the sonth-east. It rained, hailed, and blew
stroi^g until early morning, when it let go. The long-
absent sun then condescended to show his face once
more, and, as if to make up for his neglect, shone
with great brilliancy and heat. Taking advantage of
this, we commenced to saw the scliooner farther into
the ice, as that around us was getting rather weak.
Mr. Sherman prepared his camera to tiike photographs
of surroundinsf scencrv, and Mr. Kundein took the
small boat, two Esquimaux, guns and anununition,
and launched forth on a day's hunt. Shortly after 12
meridian the heavens became darkened and it befican
to rain. The camera was abandoned, work on the
vessel ceased, and all sought shelter except the hunt-
ers, who were far awav and were soaked with rain.
Kuck-oo-jug started for the Kickertons yesterday,
and I fear he will not be able to get back, as I think
the ice down th<^ gulf has given wa3% and all we need
is a good northwester to drive it out. The present
wind from the south-east is holding it up. Nep-e-ken
and Ete-tun shot two oog-jooks this morning. I have
WINTER IX CUMBKULAND GULF.
14:3
secured one of the Inxlies as a spociiiien for Kuiiilein.
Tlie skins will do for moccasin soles.
.
June 20. — The rain continued until 10..^0 to-dav,
when the sun again shone for a sh ^rt time. At me-
ridian the sky again hecame clouded iind the wind
veered from the south to south-east, and there it re-
mains.
Last evening, at 8.30 o'clock, the whole of the ice
in the inner harhor made an effort to force its wav
out of the north passage. As the Florence is docked
into this ice, it created for a time some little uneasi-
ness, hut the attempts of the ice to move out were
futile. The passage was too small, and, after forcing
its way some seventy yards, it stopped.
The Esquimaux shot anotlier oog-jook this after-
noon. Mr. Sherman has heen forced to give u[> his
ohservations at the ohservatory on account of the had
state of the ice. lie continues them, however, on
board.
I have been sounding up the lagoon leading to the
nortlMvest to-dav, endeavorinsj to find some safer an-
chorage for the vessel, where she would he clear of
drift ice, but none was found. We are still holdins;
on to our dock in the ice, but we mav have to let i^o
at anv moment. The ice barrier between here and
the Kickertons has given way, but, instead of going
down the gulf, it has gone to the head, having been
I«^t;
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144
THE CRUISE OF THE FLOEENCE.
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forced up by the southerly winds. There are only two
small islands between
vessel to protect her.
small islands between the drifting mass of ice and the
June 21. — The wind continued from the south and
cast during the night, holding the broken floes hard
pressed against the little islands which protect the ves-
sel. Earlv this niornins: the wind came out from
the north, with heavy snow-squalls. I was asleep in
my berth at the time, but the wild roaring of the
wind would have awakened Kip Van Winkle had he
been asleep here. I got up and went on deck, when
a scene of wild confusion presented* itself The ice
outside of the harbor, feeling the force of the wind
and tide, which latter was on the ebb, was moving
southward with great rapidity, the heavier and strong-
er masses rushing on over the lighter and weaker, and
in their headlong course grinding them to atoms. The
noise accompanying this, the wild roaring of the wind,
and the flying snow made up an awe-inspiring scene.
The harbor ice soon commenced moving, this time try-
ing to force its way out of the south-east passagu, but
it also proved too narrow, and the Ice brought up hard
against the land on both sides of the passage, and there
it remains, and we remain with it, but not in an envi-
able situation ; for we are surrounded by small islands
and reefs, upon which the heavy ice may press the
vessel at any moment. However, we have been at
,
i; ^- ^i^
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
145
o
e
work to-day, and hope to prevent any snch termina-
tion of the " preliniituirv Arctic expedition." We have
now abont fifty yards of ice oft" one end, or fiftv vards
of scarf which set ach'ift a})ont an acre of ice, and this
gives us a chance to haul the Florence clear of (hin-
der.
This evening the weather is moderate. Through
all the turmoil to-day, we have prepared our boats tor
whaling. The Esquimaux and myself sawed ice and
the crew o^ot the boats readv.
June 22. — Yesterday evening our north-west wind
entirely left us. The tide was on the Hood, and tlie
piece of ice in which we were docked commenced
moving toward the north-west shore, carrvin<r the
vessel into very shoal water. We Just slipped oiu*
lines in time and towed clear. Towiui^ out into the
outer harbor, we dropped anchor in nine fathoms of
water, and there lav throuc^h tlie \\\<j\\i. Earlv tliis
morning the wind came again from the south and east
and I made an anchorage some hundred vards i'ur-
ther in shore, hoping thereby to get out of the strengtli
of the current and thus ko ^p clear of the drift ice.
The wind has been light a^l (hiy, and tlie sky has been
overcast. I was on the hill to-day and examined the
ice to the south. There was nothini? to be seen but a
heavy mass of broken floes, interspersed here and
there with a lonely space of water. The Hoes are
14G
THE CRUISE OF THE FLOKENCE.
ii! \
f :? '
l(:
again pressing hard upon the little ishmtls which pro-
tect us.
June 23.— Last evening, at 10 o'clock, the inner-
harbor ice threatened our Httle vessel a«:ain. The
wind came from tlie south, and the tlood-tide was in
its strength when the ice attempted to force its way
out thVough the north passage into the outer harbor
where the schooner lay. We prepared everything for
its reception as best we could and waited. It jammed
between the points of the two islands, and as the ebb-
tide is making it must remain there till the next iiood.
At 5 A. M. it will l)e low water. At 4 I examined
the situation. It was blowiuij^ a (j:ood breeze from the
south, witli occasional squalls from the south-east, and
rain. It was not favorable. The attem[)t to move
a vessel a«:ainst a strong' breeze and tide, with no room
to work ill except with lines, is not a pleasant task.
Running a line, liowever, to the weather point of the
ice, we tripped our anchor, and by hard hauling drew
the vessel up to that point. We had just succeeded
in doing this when the wliole mass started. Running
a line to the small island on which it had Ijeen jam-
med, we trusted to the schooner's strength, swung
clear of the troublesome mass, and let it pass by, \s'hi('h
it soon did. I was determined to get the schooner into
the inner harbor if possible, and for that purpose now
ran some three hundred and tiftv fathoms of line in
I- i >:
^11 :
^CttC.
WINTER IX CUxMBERLAND GULF.
147
near the observatory, ami tlion, slackin- both lines
brought the vessel down over the l)nove(l anchor'
which was secured. The Esquimaux now came on'
board, which gave us strength, and bv dint of hard
hauhng we managed to get the FJorencc into the inner
harbor hy 12 o'clock, when we had breakfast. The
weatlier is most wretched.
Tlie lieavj floes are piled hard up against the little
island, making it impossible to go out of the liarbor
even \x\\\\ a kyack or boat.
June 24.— Cloudy, dreary weather. This mornin<v
early we were compelled to shift our andiorao,. a-aiir
as a large piece of ice threatened totbul the schooner'
It has been cabn most of t]i.> dav. As lor the ^nn
we scarcely know tlierc is one, it so seldom shines*
Shortly alter dinner — ;; .(> y, M.__.the wind breezed
trom tlie north-west and rain hea-an fallin-- Mr
Kumlein went out to-day with ^ome KsquiM.aux <m a
bird and egg hunt. As we are andioivd close to the
observatory, Mr. Sherman has resumed his observa-
tions. There is no apprecial)le change in (he condition
or tlie lieavy floes outside.
June 25.— Kain fell till about 10 o'clock last ni<dit
It has been cloudy, damp, and chilly. The mists hang
low on the mountains and the weathei- has a dreary^
sondjre aspect. The ice has moved down the crnlf
]"■
'Pi t
:M 'I
148
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
some little distance, giving the boats a chance to move
out of the harbor. Xep-e-ken has taken advantage of
this, and gone, with nine others, bird and egg hunting.
Mr. Kumlein l)rought back a few ducks and about
two hundred eggs from yesterday's hunt. lie also
])rought back quite a hole in the boat, caused l)y the
premature discharge of his gun. He did not return
till 6 o'clock this morning. Of course we are still at
work trvinsi: to cure and (h'v skins, of which wo have
a fair quantity, yet not as many as I had hoped to get.
We have a light breeze from the south this evening.
tin
June 26. — Light westerly wind, accompanied by
snow and sleet. The southerlv wind held until 6
o'clock A. M., tilling the har1x)r with ice. With the
change of wind, however, the ice all disappeared. Ete-
tun shot and secured two oog-jooks yesterday evening.
As the skin of the oog-jook is the only one suitable for
moccasin soles in this latitude, I am very nuich grat-
ified to get them. We were employed to-day taking
water on board. If this wind holds it will set the pack-
ice down the arulf, and we will then <i:et under wav.
June 27. — "We have it!" Southerly wind, which
is blowino; strons;, with sleet and rain. The ice is
again hard packed on the land. Nep-e-ken and his
party, who are off egg, bird, and seal hunting, cannot
get here until there is a change in the wind. There
WINTER IN CUMBERLAND GULF.
149
is quite a swell heaving from the south-oast uf) the
guU'— a certain sign that there is no pack-ice at the
mouth. The weather is fearfully had, and we are get-
ting mouldy from the long-continued dampness.
•
June 28.— The weather was much better to-day.
There was a light south-east wind, and it was warm
and sunny. The wind holds the ice still pressed fast
on the land. It lessens our prospect of getting a whale
this summer. We should be out now looking for one,
but we cannot go on account of ice. Xep-e-ken and
party have not arrived, nor can they get here until
there is a change in the wind. The squaws were act-
ively ht work to-day preparing skins. The air was
about calm this evening.
June 29.— Cloudy, with indications of rain. The
wind is to the south-east and the ice still jamiiied hard
upon the land. I see no prospect of a change, at least
ibr some time to come. The Esquimaux shot throe
more oog-jooks yesterday, and we have secured the
skins.
June 30. — Cloudy and calm. The ice remains un-
changed. Nep-e-ken and party managed to reach the
vessel to-day by hauling their boat over the ice. When
they had approached within a mile of the schooner a
sleigh was sent to their assistance. This morning sev-
150
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
I J
eral boats were discovered on the ice toward the north
shore. They were being hanled over the broken floes,
now and then finding a little lake of water into which
they were launched. The party I'eached here at 2 p.
M., and I found it composed of Captain Roach and
several men from the Kickerton station. Thev left
the station hist Thursdav, and are lookins: for whales.
I hope for a north or north-west wind within twenty-
four hours.
II
July 1. — Calm and foggy the fore part of the day,
and the latter part we had a light breeze from the
west, whicli lasted only a few hours. In the evening
the wind came fresh from the south-east, with fog and
heavy rain. I can see no hope of esca[)e for an in-
definite time. Roach and party are encamped on the
ice in the little bay to the south-west of the harljor.
July 2. — Strong breeze from the south-east, with
fog and rain. The harbor is full of broken ice.
July 3. — Rain fell in torrents all night. This morn-
ing the sky was overcast and a fog prevailed. The
breeze was not quite as strong as it was. yesterday.
This evening there were indications of more rain.
There has been no change in the ice. The harbor is
still packed full. The Esquimaux come and go upon it
WTXTER IX CUMBERLAND GULF.
151
between tlie vessel and shore. The temperature was
somewhat cooler tliis ev'enui"'.
July 4. — Rain commenced lallino^ at 10 o'ch)ck last
night and continued until 6 this morning, when tlie
wind veered to the west. All dav the wind was lio-ht
and the sky overcast. The rain-clouds humr lieavilv
and tln'eateningly over us. Tliis evening tlie wind
breezed freshly iVoni the west and rain fell. The
harbor, whicli has been so packed with ice that it was
almost impossible to reach the shore with a boat, was
quite clear at 6 o'clock p. m. This is so, at least, in
the vicinity of the schooner, and we can reach the
shore once more. Two houi's before this tlie male
Esquimaux came to the vessel over the broken pieces
of ice. The women and children, however, did not
venture. Roach is still detained here by the ice, but
if this wind holds I hope to sec water in the moi'nint>*,
which will free him and us also.
152
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
■i '.'
ii
^n
gnvt orJuvd.
Annanatook to Disco.
July 5. — Last evening, after a contest of an hour or
two between the soutli-east and westerly winds, the
south-easter succumbed. We had quite a good breeze
during the night. This morning it was light, but,
notwithstanding this, I concluded to get under way.
There was some little difficulty in getting the Esqui-
maux, their dogs, kyacks, and all their traps on board;
bu<" this was accomplished by 3 o'clock p. m., and then
we started. Our iirst attempt was to get down the
south shore, but at the Gloucester Islands, about twelve
miles from the harbor, we met with ice packed hard
aii'ainst the land. Turnins; from that, we headed for
the north shore, which we managed to reach a little
l)elow American Harbor, where we were again stopped
by the ice. We then attempted to enter American
Harbor, l)ut the wind left us, and although we soon
had two boats towing, the strong current refused to let
us enter. So at 11 o'clock p. m., the time of the pres-
ent writing, we are dodging about in the ice.
Julv 6. — Shortly after midnicrht last nio:ht the west-
erly wind died away, leaving us becalmed until morn-
ing. This morning, at 6 o'clock, the wind came from
the south-east. As the weather has had a threatening
i'
ANNANATOOK TO DISCO.
158
appearance during the last twenty-tour hours, I con-
cluded that the most prudent thing tor us to do would
he to make a harhor as soon as possil)le. American
Harhor was then ahout twelve miles oti:", and was hy
all a[>pearances free from ice. We endeavored once
more to enter this harhor and headed for it. Rain
soon hegan falling, the breeze freshened, and the ice
to the south of us was coming up before the wind.
We pressed on all canvas, and, in spite of the strong
currents, we reached an anchorage in the harbor at
10.30 A. M. The water is very deep here — twenty-tive
fathoms, with mud bottom. Although the weatber is
bad, we nuumed a boat this afternoon, and Messrs.
Kundein and Sherman wGut to the shore, the former
to collect specimens, and the latter to try, in the storm,
to '^et some photographs of the place. Kain fell heav-
ilv all dav and the wind this evening blew strong. It
is almost impossible, with the annoyance of the Esqui-
maux children, the howling of the dogs, and an unset-
tled mind, to get any rest. The babies cry, the dogs
howl, and the puppies cry, all in chorus.
j^ly 7. — Until 2 o'clock a. m. the gale continued
with fearful violence. It was just as nmch as we could
do to breast the storm when walking from aft forward
* on the vessel's deck. Kain poured down in torrents.
At 9 o'clock this evening we canted the schooner's
head in close to the island which shelters her from the
154
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
6' K
V
fnrv of the storm {ind drit'tinoj ice, and let sfo the biii
anclior. Fortniisitelv no lieavv ice tbuled the vossel,
iiearlv all of it sweeping? some tiftv vards to the east-
ward of where slie lav. At 2 o'clock tlie wind al)ated.
All hands wore called and the biii^ anchor was hove
np, to prevent its f'onlins^ with the other anchor.
To-diiy we have westerly wind, with rain, hail, and
sleet at times. Mr. Shermaii persisted in stoppin<^ on
shore last night to measure the tides and, if possible,
to do somethinsc else in his line. This mornin<i; I sent
a l)oat for him. lie says he managed to get the tides,
and, judging by his appearance, I tliiidv also one of
the worst soakin2:s he ever had.
'
Julv 8. — Dunns: the nio;ht the wind hauled to the
south-east, and was accompanied by rain, snow, and
sleet. At 12 meridian to-day the sun attempted to
shine, and did actually appear for a few minutes, and
then vanished. In spite of the bad weather, I con-
cluded to take a boat and an Esquimaux boat's-crew
and o^o down to see if there was anvthinoj left of the
whale, and if not to bring back our canvas tent, cut-
ting spades, tackle, &c., that were carried there in the
spring. We started at 10 a. m., and after a good long
pull, hauling over ice, and getting thoroughly wet, we
succeeded in reachins: within about ibur hundred vards
of the carcass, where we were stopped by such ice as
one could neither haul over nor pull through without
♦
1
*
u
ANNANATOOK TO DISCO.
155
running tlie risk of a sloven boat or a wet jacket. I
was m no lininor for cither of these aUernatives, and
so we sto[)pe(l. We could see tlie earcass and cask.
They were still tliere ; hut whetlier there is juiv oil
left in the bluhher, I cannot tell. We put ai)out and
started for the sclioouer. We had considerahle diili-
eulty in navigatin<^^ tln-ougli the ice to open water.
We reached the vessel at 9 o'clock p. M.Jiaving picked
up on tlie way a few ducks, a seal, and a wliitc whale,
which latter we found dead. Mr. Kundein, wlio was
with us, wished to save tlie hones of the whale for
specimens ; so I had it towed to a piece of ice, and,
hauling it out of the water, the Es(piiniaux soon dis-
sected it. We tlien [)Ut in the boat su(;li parts of the
remains as we wished to presei've, and proceeded on
our way to the schooner. The ice is vevy much wast-
ed, and it cannot interfere with us mucli lonu'er.
July 9. — We ha\e a fresh breeze from the south-east
to-day. The weather is cloudv and a i'ixj: hamj-s heavily
over the land. Mr. Sherman is on shore, trviiiir to ascer-
tain the elevation of some of the pi'ominent mountains.
Mr. Kumlein is also on shore, cleaning and preparing
his white-whale specimen. The Esquimaux are assist-
ino^ him. We on board are orettino; water and l)reak-
ing out [provisions, — enough, I hope, to last until we
get clear of the Esquimaux ; and by getting out enough
provisions now^ we need not encroach upon their do-
I
I*
i^?
156
THE CRUISE OF THT^ FLORENCE.
main until we arrive at Disco Island. The weather is
so very l)ad that I fear some of the sldns which could
not be dried will spoil.
July 10. — Cloudy and foggy over the land. A fresh
breeze prevails from the south-east. Eain fell by spells
all night. There is considerable ice outside of the har-
bor. Mr. Kundein and some of the Esquimaux were
otf gathering specimens to-day, and Mr. Hherrnan was
engaged taking photographs of the surrounding coun-
try from the deck of the schooner. If there is an
opportunity, we will get under way again to-night or
tc -morrow.
July 11. — Cloud}'; occasional showers of rain. All
the morning the wind, was light and variable. This
afternoon we had a hght breeze from the north. The
ice outside of the harbor is in much the same condition.
Some of the skins which we have heretofore been
unable to dry, and which we had barreled up, were
found this morning to be spoiling. I therefore sent
them ashore, and the squaws with them, to dry them,
if possible. I fear it will be difficult to do so if the
prevailing showers continue.
The Esquimaux are oft' sealing in their boats. They
will, if possible, before their return, ascertain the posi-
tion of the ice to the south-east of us. But the wind
hangs to the south-east, and that is dead ahead. We
.P'
m \
ANNANATOOK TO PI?CO.
' 157
have another man down with a sore hand. We w^orc
employed to-day gettin<;- some fresh water; with the
Esquimaux and dogs, we use it very fast.
jiily 12.— (Jnite clear to-day. Our northerly wind
yesterday lasted al)out an huur; then it hauled to the
south-east and In-ought rain. It did not have any a[)-
preciahle effect on the ice outside. 1 sent a hoat to
the pohit at which tlie whale lies to bring back all our
gear remaining there. As it is getting late in the sea-
son we will have no time to si)are, and will therefore
have to leave at the first o])portunity.
The Esquimaux shot two more oog-jooks yesterday.
The squaws are at work on the shore drying the skins.
For a wonder, it does not rain to-day. AVe had a light
breeze from the south, and the air is dark and heavy
down the gulf, as if another storm was close ui)on us.
The ice outside is merely a shell. With a fair wind
for a few hours we would be free. The boat returned
from the whale at 4 o'clock this afternoon. The crew
report considerable water below. We will try in the
morning to break throagh the ice be ween the vessel
and open water. We have quite a number of skins
on shore drying.
July 13.— Clear and fine. This morning at five
o'clock all hands were called to get under way. It
was calm, but the tide was at the flood, and I intended
158
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
'W
m
to tiiko tlie strong eblj-tide, and, with the iiid of the
freshet, get a good ofhng before tlie return tide. The
half-cured skins and the dogs were soon on hoard, we
tripped our anchor, and, with the aid of ])oats, soon
cleared the harbor. On o-ettino; w^^ll oft* shore a li«:ht
west wind rendered, tlie use of l)oats no longer neces-
sary, and thev were hoisted. A¥e went alon"- finely.
The water was as smooth as a mirror. We steered
directly for Xew Xoryion, on the soi'th side of the crulf
and aVxnit ninety miles distant. As we ap]»roached
this place we found it surrounded by ice, and wiiile
workiuij; throu<T!:h this we heard several firuns fir»_* in
shore. We stood in the direction of the reports, and
soon saw two boats comino*. The^' came alonijcside,
and proyed to contain crews of Esquinniux \yho had
been in tlie service of the Scotch durin^r tlie last ^ear.
r soon o'ot the information that they were off on a
deer-hunt. a!id that the Esquimaux who had promised
to 2:0 with me to the coast of Greenland had <i;one
deer-hunting seyei'al days ago. I endeayored to pre-
vail upon some of these to accoinpany me, l)ut they
would not listen to it. I now paid off and left two
Esquimaux families that we had tak('n from Niantilic
to Annanatook last fall. This leaves me Xep-e-ken
and his family, Ete-tun and his family, Chunnny, and
Al-o-kee — four men, two squaws, and four children.
Alter getting clear oF these Esquimaux wv. innne-
diately bore up for the Kickertons, then about fifty
1
i
I*
I
ANNANATOOK TO DISCO.
150
miles distant. At 12 o'clock niidniglit we had no
wind. At 12 o'clock midday on the 14th tliere was
still no wind, and one hoat was ont towinii;. We have
not force enon^'h to man two l)oats. Kickerton was
at this tinie alxmt el.u-ht miles oif. I conid see no
vessel in the harbor.
Julv 15. — Clear and tine. Yesterdav wc mana^'cd
to reach an anchorage at Kickcrron IslaiMl hy dint of
hard rowing, assisted a little l)y titful winds. Here I
heard from Mr. Meech, who has charge of the Scotch
station now, that the vessels have ah left for home, and
that Captain Koacli has l)rokcn up the Aniericaii sta-
tion hy order of Mr. Winiams. of New London ; also
that he and his crew liavc gone home hy way ol' Scot-
land. Captain Roach left me tw(» tine sleighs and
some jaw-l)ones of wliales. to be nsed in making other
sleiu'hs; also [)aint, kerosene oil, varnish, and a signal
lantern. Had we reached her<^ a few days ago we
conld have i)rocured (pfite an addition to onr store of
skins. The Scotcn vessels ha\e all failed in the wlial-
ing this season. Two ha\-e g*)t nothing; one ship has
one whale and another two. We are actively at work
ii-ettin*'' evervtliing in oimIim' [\)V a tinal stai't to the coast
of Cilreenland. 1 sent a number of skins on ^-lioi'e this
morninu' to be cleaned and dried. They were spoiling.
July It).— Cloudy and i'oggy- Vesterilay a'fternoon
160
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
rain commenced falling. The skin -drying had, of
course, to ])e abandoned. We were employed to-day
preparing a place in the vessePs hold for the Esqui-
maux to live in during the passage to Greenland.
Kain fell in the latter part of the day. A strong wind
from the south-east prevailed. It was my intention
to get under way this evening, but I concluded to
remain here until there was a favorable chanfj^e in the
weather. With the present weather we could make
no headway.
July 17. — Cloudy, with light, variable wind. Tins
morning we conmienced to gat the Esquimaux and
doers on board for a start. Bv 1 o'clock i\ m. this
was accomplished and we ijcot under wav. On ijettinir
outside of the harbor we found the whid verv lii^ht
from the south, scarcely stronii^ enoiijjrh to afford steer-
age-way. At the Kickerton Islands we got an addition
of one native, three squaws, and two children to our
crew. We have now five men, five squaws, and five
children on board, and I think that will be enouirh.
We have also nearlv thirty doi>:s, with sleds^es, <fcc.
We are now bound for Niantilic, to get souic skins
left for me bv Tes-e-wane, the native with whom we
left the trade last fall.
July 18. — The weather remained calm until D
o'clock last eveninc:. Then we got a liij^ht breeze from
•
5qni-
ANNANATOOK TO DISCO.
101
the sontli-sontli-cast, almost diroftly alioad, as Niantilic
is soLitli of tlio Xickertons. The bivezc lasted until 12
•midnight, when it died awav, leavinir ns becahned in
a thick fog. Tliis morning, at !) o'elock, the fog lifted,
and at 12 noon we were favored with another hii:ht
breeze from the same quarter as tlie one last night.
.Julv 10.-— Very fine weather. We mananced to
reach Blacklead Island, five nfdcs from Xiantilic, at
8 o'clock this morning. I took a l)()at and an Esqui-
maux crew and W(Mit on shore to allow the Esquimaux
to have a talk with their friends and relatives. We
l)ade them good-by and returned to the Florence. At
4 o'clock r. M. we set all sail, haNinii" a rnxx] Itreezo
from the north-west, and stood rjown tlie gulf At ')
p. M. we were abreast of Leo[)()ld anil Coburg IsUmd,
off Cape Mercy. There is some little ice and a num-
l)er of bergs, but nothing as yet :o sto[) our way. Tlie
weather is delightful. It is briglit and sunny, witli a
good strong breeze. Mr. Kundcin is now sketching
the ca[)e, a very bold, time, weather, and ice worn
headland, in latitude {'A"" 50' north, longitude b"P 80'
west.
July 20. — AVe had fine weather and liglit variable
winds during IIk; night. At 7 o'clock A. M, we dis-
covered a bear ainona; the fioatinu: i«'e-fioe^. It was
soon dispatched and on l»oar(h and it [)roved. to be
11
162
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
I
f !
n ^
if i
quite a large one. To-day we had wind from tlie
south. At 12 meridip.n the weather was very fine,
with the barometer inclined downward. I think at 12
we were nearly, if not entirely, clear of the driftins:
floes of ice. Some of them are very heavy, and, hav-
ing to force our way through a narrow stream, last
night we struck one of them a severe blow, which I
fear has set the schooner leaking somewhat. Cape
Walsinofham was in sii^ht this noon.
July 21. — The weather is very bad. We have
strons: winds and thick fos^. The Florence is under
close -reefed sails, and we are beating at random
through the fog. I hoped last night that we were
clear of ice, but we still tind plenty of it, and it is
heavy, there being many bergs, making navigation
dangerous.
July 22. — The weather is still foggy. Yesterday,
toward evening, the wind died away, leaving us almost
becalmed. The air still remained densely thick with
fog, l)ut we went groping alo'.ig among the floes.
Upon going to the mast-head I could see no outlet
ahead; — nothing l)ut a mass of lieavy floes. To the
north-east there was the appearance of water, but
liow much it was impossible to tell. I determined to
get the vessel there if possil)le. All hands were cidled,
and both boats were put ahead to tow and assist in
r V
ANNANATOOK TO DISCO.
1C3
tackini>: the schooner, as It was almost calm and there
was but small l)eating space between the floes. One
boat was manned by the Esquimaux ; the other by our
own crew. By their aid and quick work we managed
to iret the schoDuer into water where there w^as room
to work her, when all liands were called on board.
Sail was made to beat up to the north-east to the open
^vater. At tliis time the fog shut down again, but I
had taken the bearings of the water, and, having a
little breeze, I supposed I would soon reach it. We
now took in the flying-jil) and gafi'topsail, hauled the
jib to the mast, and lay-to.
July 23. — Ice in everv direction ; tliick fog and rain ;
wind from the south-east. We are dodging in a hole
of water. How nuich water or how much ice there is
around us, we cannot tell in this thick weather. It is
weary work. Time is slipping fast and it is impossible
to do anvthini>:. This is the third dav of thick weather
and easterly winds.
July 24. — lleayy wind from the east ; weather thick
and rainy. We haye been beating all day to the east
through the broken floes. This eyening, at 7.30, we
tied up to a piece of ice. The weather is yery hard.
We haye a head-wind and plenty of ice. We are now
in latitude IK]'' north, longitude 59° west. There ap-
pears to be no end to the ice. The nights are some-
[f f
Ml
I
i t
i !
i I
i 1
it
1G4
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
what (lark at midniglit, and that, with the fog and a
gale of wind, renders it dangerous to attempt to work
through the floating masses. We have been all day
under close-reefed sails.
July 25. — The heavy wind from the east continues.
Last u'vAit we were busv until 12 o'clock trvinor to
O « I/O
keep the vessel from collision with the heavy floes.
There is quite a swell under the ice, and it is very
dangerous to let the schooner get between two floes
or bergs, as there are spurs projecting under the water
from them all. At 12 the wind died away, leaving us
fog and rain. This morning the sun was out, but the
weather had a threatenino; look. At 12 meridian our
latitude was (35° 55' north and our longitude 58° west.
It is the only day since our departure from Niantilic
"that was faxorable for an observation. After 12 it
"commenced to blow, with rain and thick weather.
The barometer is verv low and still inclined down.
Everybody is gloomy, and even the dogs howl in their
distress. It is, indeed, a gloomy and cheerless time.
Kever before have I experienced such a continuation
of bad weather on this coast.
July 26. — Cloudy and hazy; fresh breeze iVom
south-south-east. At 10 A. M. we cast ofl' our lines
from the piece of floe to which we had been fastened
the last two days. We then made sail and commenced
.■**
ANNANATOOK TO DISCO.
IHf)
working to windward. The, ice is quite close, and a
vessel l()niJ:er than tlie Florence would scarcely work
through it. Last night, at 12, a very heavy wind pre-
vailed. Yesterday afternoon one of the Esfiuiniaux
came and asked me to k^t one of the women ankoot
for better weather. I could see that thev were gettinic
nervous over the long spell of had weather ; so, to
encoura<i:c them, I consented to 2^1 ve her a skirt as a
fee. They had it liot and heavy hist niglit. The re-
sult was somewhat l)etter weather this morning, but
the wind was still ahead. We were at noon in lati-
tude 05'-^ ijiV north, longitude 58" west.
July 27. — Cloudy, with strong breeze from the south-
south-west. At (S o'clock last evening we succeeded
in irettiui!: out of the ice. AVe came out under (;k)se-
reefed sails, and if the schooner Florence was 'U'cr in
danirer of havini>: her sides stove in, she was then.
We pressed on all the canvas she could bear on get-
ting out, so as to make an opening and get clear oi'
bergs and scattered pieces, but at 1 o'clock A. xM. the
sea was so heavy and the wind so strong that we were
compelled to come under storm-sails. The poor Es-
quimaux and dogs suffer a great deal, as tliey fire not
accustomed to the sea. We have the Esquimaux and
the pu^jpies battened down in the hold of the vessel.
July 28.— Hazy, but sun shone, with light breeze
'f! >
1 I
s '"
ll'i
hi
166
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
from east and north-east* We kept oft' for Pisco yes-
terday as the wind moderated. We are now ahout
eiijhtv-tive miles from the island, and are rnnnins;
wdth light wind.
July 29. — Yesterday afternoon our light wind and
fair weather did not last lonff. Toward evenino^ the
wind commenced to blow from the north-north-east,
and bv 2 a. m. we \vere under storm-sails. The weather
had a most ominous ap[)earance. The wind swept
down upon us with great force. Shortly after a dense
black bank of cloud came swee[)ing down toward the
scljooner, and we were soon enveloped in as dense a
l)lack fog as I ever saw. The fog had a tendency to
kill the wind somewhat, but we were under storm-sails
all night. This morning we set foresail and inainsail,
both close reefed, with bonnet out of jib. At 10 a. m.
the sea is still quite bad and the weather no better;
thick and rainy. We are near land and not far from
Disco Island, but dare not steer for it in this dense
weather and heavy sea. This evening tlie wind w^as
from the westei'n quarter, directly on the land, but J
am very uncertain whether it will remain there. One
of our dogs died or was killed last night.
July 30. — Cloudy, with light breeze from the north-
north-east and quite a heavy swell. Kain fell heavily
all night and the air w^as thick. This morning the
ANNANATOOK TO.DIfeCO.
167
was
coast of Greenland was in siglit, about fifty miles dis-
tant. The wind is direetly aliead, and it is liglit; tlie
swell is heavy. We are making hut little headway.
Wc3 have now lost two dogs. A great many hirds are
in si«:ht, and we have passed hundreds.
July 31.— Cloudy, and very thick at times. Yes-
terday evening the wind hauled to the north. Kam
has commenced falling again, and the atmos[)liere has
become foa:gy. I can only guess as to our [)osition, as
it has been impossible to get observations. At 11
o'clock we sighted the island. We made Fortune
Bay, a short distance to the west of the harbor of Disco.
The wind left us at 5 o'clock a. m. I called all hands
and sent two boats ahead to tow. The air liad become
so thick that at times, though close in, we could not
see the shore; but we pulled through and managed to
get safely anchored at 8 o'clock a. m. Here we find a
banish bark, but no American vessel.
August 1. — Cloudy and foggy; wind soutli-east.
Two steamers hove in sight to-day from the north.
One came into the harbor and towed out 'the Danish
bark, the captain of which is bound to Upernavik. ^rhe
Danisli and Scotch vessels have l)een unable to reach
tJpernavik this season on account of ice. This lias
been one of the most icy seasons known for many
years. We caught quite a quantity of codfish to-day.
168
THE CRUIgE OF THE FLORENCE.
lit
t;;
jl
;:if
U. f
^vlnc;ll, of course, iniido a feast for us. We are looking
anxiously for the expedition.
Auii'ust 5. — The weather durinc^ the last four days
has ])een very tine, and we haye taken advantai>'e of it
to paint our vessel. Every morning the Esfjuiniaux
are sent to feed the dogs, which have been landed on
one of tlie outer islands, and there they remain until
niii'lit. We have no conmiunication whatever with
the people on shore. On our arrival here Governor
Smith was absent. One or two of liis subordinates
to-day cimie alonm-side and informed me that tlie Gov-
ernor had left orders that there should be no connnu-
nication ijetween tlie vessel and shore. I asked the
reason of this strange order, and was informed that
one Captain Adams of the Scotch steamer Ardu' had
been here in the early spring and told the Governor
that the Esquimaux and crew of the schooner Florence
were all diseased. I asked permission to land my
doses remote from the town, which was accorded.
The following day one of the inhabitants came oii' in
•a kyack, paddled alongside, and brought me some late
papers. Messrs. Sherman and Kumlein, with an Es-
quimaux crew, w^ent to the Blue Mountains to-day,
for the purpose of ascertaining something about the
meteoric stones found there.
k\\
August 6. — Cloudy <iud foggy. It is difficult to tell,
\ t
ANNANATOOK TO DISCO,
ino
ill this little biisiii, wliicli way the wind is tVoni. Messrs.
Slienium aiul Jvunilein luivc not ri'turned yet. We
were eni[)lnyed to-day scraping our masts an<l l)()onis.
I feel very niucli disappointed at the non-a[i[iearan(;e
of the expedition an<l at havini? received no word from
Captain Ilowgate or from home, 'fhere is a I'umor
here that the American Uovurnment has 1 (ought tlie
Enijclish steamer Pnndoi''i, and that she is to come here.
Ancrust 7. — Verv fine weather. Having about all
our work done, tlie crew were oii' fishing to-day, to
make our provisions liold out. Messrs. Sherman and
Kundein returned this morning at 4 o'clock. They
found the place at which Xordcnskjohl discovered me-
teoric stones and brought back a few specimens ; very
small ones, however. They were told by a native
whom thev found encamped near by that he knew the
locality of two large ones. If the weather permits we
will trv to find them. Mr. Kundein has been quite
successful hi his line, as he has got several rare birds.
August 8.— Quite fine weather. Liist night it was
verv foiTirv. We were emploved to-day getting fresh
water and fisliinii: foi- codfish, on which latter nc dme
everv dav. We made a trade to-day for a i>iece of
meteoric stone from the Blue Mountains. One ot the
natives brought it. It will weigh about two [)0unds.
U V
i :'
\H
I
' il 4
170
THE CRUISE or THE FLORENCE.
Aucjiist 9. — Yery fine wctither. We liave, of course,
daylight during most of the twenty-four houi's, and
nearly continuous sunsliine. If it were not for the
mosquitoes one could enjoy a ranihhi on the shore.
They number millions, and eyen attack us on the yes-
sel. Several of the crew are fairly poisoned with their
bites. Messrs. Sherman and Kumleiri again went to
the Blue Mountains to-day, and were accompanied by
a native boat-crew. They were provided with tackle,
crowl)ars and rope, to raise any meteoric stones that
they may find, if not too heavy. If they find any
stones so heavy that they cannot raise them, I will go
down with the schooner, if the weather permits, and
render assistance. A Danish briir entered ihe harbor
&»
last even ins:.
Ausfust 10. — Very line weather. The crew were
off fishing to-day. We must catch fish for dog -food,
as we have no other. The name of the Danish brio; is
the Whalefish, and the captain's name is Kettles. The
captain was on board last evening. lie cannot speak
much English, nor can I much Danish, but we man-
age to understand each other. This morning a small
schooner of about ten tons came in.
m
August 11. — Cloudy and cool. It is the only day
since we came here on which we have not been mo-
lested by mosquitoes. The wind is from the north
ANNANATOOK TO DISCO.
171
and east, and the jitni08[»hove is soiuewliat fogi^n' ^^^'^'»'
the hmd. Messrs. Hhenuau and Ivuuilehi returned
last evening. Sherman found two fair specimens of
what is supposed to he meteoric stone. • Kundein se-
cured a tounkfish and some few birds, lie also adiUul
somewhat to his collection in botany. It is Sunday,
and the little bell on shore summoned the peoi)le to
church. We have no conmumica^ion with them.
Every day the boats from shore, containing tbe half-
breeds of' the settlement, come around the schooner to
_^ ize upon the West Land Esquimaux, but none of
these visitors are allowed on board, llicre is now^
scarcely a pure-blooded Esquimaux on the coast of
Greenland. Light hair, red hair, and l)lue eyes are
•ommon. No expedition }
et. We are out of fuel.
August 12.— Strong wind to-day, but i)leasant witb-
al. We were employed to-day getting water. We
will get under way on the 15th, if the weather is favor-
able.
August 13.— Cloudy weather, witli a strong l)reeze
from the north-east. We were employed to-day fish-
ing. Mr. Kumlein is repainting. the name of the
schooner, which had been erased when she received
her new coat of paint, soon after our arriN'al here.
Mr. Smith, the inspector, sent a boat yesterday after-
noon with a request for me to come on shore, as he
I- 1
0.
172
THE CRUISE OF THE FLOllEXCE.
mi
wished to see mo. Tie savs tluit i\\Q surgeon and cap-
tain of the steamer /4/Y7/V' informed him tliat there was
a great deal of sickness among the Es([niniaux in tlie
gulf, and tliaf it was only to protect his own Esquimaux
from disease tluit he issued the order forhiddiuij: com-
munication with us. I shall get wliat I need liere, —
some little coal, some sugar, coffee, -nid t()!)acco.
Then I nuist take tlie Esf[uimaux and theii* dogs to
their mitive land. After that we shall he liomeward
bound ! Mr. Smith informs me tliat he read in a
Danish paper that tlie expedition had been postponed
until next Year.
August 14. — We an; liaving another spell of l)ad
weather. The wind is from the north-east, hiU it is
onlv local, as there is a heavv sea coniimr from tlie
south and east. Rain is fall in;
Mr. Kundein, Mr
Sherman, and myself wei'e on shore to-day, and"dined
with the inspector. This is the first sign of civiliza-
tion we have had the [)leasure of seeing for more than
a year. Mr. Smith has a vcm'v idettsant family, and so
has Ml". Fingers, the goyernment store-kee[»er. T
bought of the inspector one and a half tons of coal,
forty pounds of <'otfee, forty pounds of sngiii', and
twenty-five pounds of tobacco.
The Danish brig left early this morning. I exjuM-ted
to leave to-morrow, but Mr. Smith is looking constant-
ly for dispatches by two vessels that sailed from Den-
AXNANATOOK TO DISCO.
173
raark in July, and lie tliinks tlier" will l)e letters ibr
the Flnrcrire by thein. Tlie straits liavc not been so
full of ice for nianv vears.
I I'
AuiTUst 15. — Very l)a(l weather. Tlie wind strouo;
from tbe soutli-east. It is rainiuij; also. We did notb-
iuir to-dav, as it was storniv. We will wait till better
weatlu'r before we ^e* our coal. kv.
Auixust 18. — Tbe'weatber for tlie last three days has
been auvthinii; but sjood. Wf haw had stiouij^ wind
and rain eontinuousiy. To-day we made an attempt
to feed our doers, but were unable to etfeet a landing
on
account of the heavv sea. It rained very
hard.
le wind here in the harbor is ea>tward. l)Ut ontside
it must be from the soudi-east, or we wonld not have
had such a sea. The inspector is looking every mo-
ment for late letters from Denmark, and we ho[»e to
I'eceive some also.
Auf>'ust 21. — Yesterday we had <dear weather, for
the iirst time in sineral davs. To-day it is also pleas-
ai
it. Neither letters nor vessels lui\e sirriveo
Tl
le
inspector fears for the safety of the vessel
W
ol
course, ci
uinot wait much l()ni»:er
.»;
174
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
mf
J^oMfewARD Bound.
August 22. — This evening, at 8 o'clock, we got un-
derway. About the time we were starting word came
from the shore that a Danish vessel was in siijht. The
inspector came on beard and wished me to await her
arrival, as he thought she must have letters for us.
But I had waited lonii; enou2:h and was determined to
go. I bought of the in;spector a half-ton more coal,
forty pounds of sugar, forty pounds of cotfee, twenty-
tive pounds of tobacco, and three hundred and seven-
ty-tive pounds of Ijread. If the pack-ice is at Cum-
berland now, we may be a moiKli landing the Esqui-
maux and the dogs, and it is oidy prudent that we
should ijrovide for such an emersrencv. On irettinii:
out to the island where our doers liave l)een domiciled
duriuii-our stav at Disco, I sent a l)oat for them, and
as soon as thev were on hoard we started down the
straits.
August 23. — Weatlier quite line; wind to the north-
west. We have sio;hted ice. and are steering; a little
on the coast of Greenland to avoid it.
i
Auifust 24. We liave a fresh hreeze from the cast-
HOMEWARD BOUND.
175
south-east, accompanied bv rain. We were UTider
storm-sails in the evening or early night. The wind
is increasinsc *uul the rain continues.
Au"-ust 25.— Strong wind from south-east. AYe are
under storm-sails. The weather is rainy and thieve.
The Esquimaux are l)arred down under the hatches.
The doo-s sutler a great deal from the sea washing over
them and from hunger.
August 26.— T1ie weather to-day was, if anything,
worse than vester<]av.
August z
\A\
rht
of th
I'St I
niirht was one ot the worst l ever
passed at sea. The wind l)lew heavily and the sea ran
high. We are surrounded hy many icelx'rgs. wliich
we see occasionally through the storm. The greater
part of the time, however, we ramiot see more than
ten yards from the schooner. So far we have (hifted
clear of everything. Hie gaU' hegan to al)atc this
afternoon. The wind hauled to the south and the
atmosphere cleared a httk^ At 8.30 i'. m. hmd was
sighted. I instantly wore the vessel around, put the
jib on, shook one reef out of the foresail, and, with her
head offshore, let her go. The sea was running very
high, and at every plunge the schooner's head would
disai)i)ear beneatli the waves; so we had to reef thi>
-** \
176
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
foresail again; with bob-jib, close-reefed foresail, and
storni-staysail we worked offshore.
August 81. — For nearly three days we luive had
quite calm weather. The vvind was very light, and
fog pix'vaik'd the greater part of the time. Last night
we doubled Cape Mercy, and readied IS'iantilic Har-
bor at 3 o'clock p. M. to-day. Here we found the
American schooner Franklin, of ^' ew Bedford, Massa-
chusetts. We heard from Captain Church, of the
Franklin, that a bark from tlio same place is at the
Kickertons.
,1 i
\J
■
Septendjer 2. — Yesterday, being Suiuhiy, we rested,
and indeed the men need rest; for they liave had but
little for the last nine davs. To-dav I discharired the
Esquinuuix. I gave them one boat, four guns, all the
remaining amiuunition' two opera-glasses, one suit of
clotliing each, netirlv all of the Danish bread we l)()uo'ht
at Disco, some little molasses, and one tent. We will
now get water and prepare for the home vo}age.
8epteml)er 8. -We have been quite idle during the
last six days. The wind has been pi'incipally from the
sout^ svhen a v:alm did not itrevail. Yesterdav a rain-
storm came, accoiupanied by very strong wind from
the south-east. To-day the wind is fi'om the west. I
IIOMEVVARD BOUND.
177
shall wait until the full of the inoou hefore starling
For home.
September 11.— We have a high wind from the
north-west to-day. I intended to start for liome
this morning, but the wind blew so strong that it was
impossible to get our anchors. Yestenhiy we had a
soutli-east snow-storm. The land is covered with
snow, and it looks like early winter. The fresli-watei'
ponds are freezing. lee is also making on our decks.
The water has fallen in temperature the last three days
from plus 38° to plus 33°.
September 12.— All yesterday and up to 12 o'clock
last night the wind blew from the north-west with ter-
rible violence. The vessel tr<>mbled in every timl)er.
Both anchors are ahead and both chains are out their
full leno:th. At times the snow was so dense that we
could sc^e only a few yards. At 12 midnight the wind
abated and hauled to the south-east. It is still snow-
ins: heavdy. I wish to get under way, but cannot m
su^h weather. It is very cold and ice is making last.
Sei)tember 13. —Yesterday afternoon the wind vecn--
ed again to the west. At 3.30 o'clock we got under
way.'^ At 5 o'clock the wind blew heavily, accomiui-
nied at times with snow. We are running under close-
reefed foresail and bonnet out of jib. Toward nnd-
12
I
." i !
178
TlIK CllUlSE or THE FLOllENX'E.
iii^'ht tlie storm iiliatod ji little. Snow stopped tailing,
and I am o-jud of it; i'or tiiere are manv berg's about.
The sea is very lieavy, and as it sweeps across our
decks it leaves tliem covered with ]>ash-ice. One sea
came over the stern, and a portion of it landed in the
cabin. To-dav the weatlier is better, but we have a
strou": breeze from the west. At noon we siijrhted
Lady Fraidvlin Island. There ai'e luanv ])erffs here-
about. Yesterday, on coming out of the harbor, we
spoke the Ullm F. Shnmorts^ schooner, Captaiu James
Budinii'ton. lie came on board and informed us that
his vessel passed last winter in Kepulse Bay. The
whalino; havini^^ failed there, he lias come to the srulf
in the hope of getting something this fall. Captain
vSpicer's bark Nile is also here, and has likewise failed.
The schooner Era, Captain Miner, is at New-gum-
eute, clean. All three vessels wintered in Hudson's
Straits last winter.
September 14. — Weather quite tine to-day. Yester-
day and last night we had a strong breeze from the
west and noilh-west. A very heavy sea is running.
We ]ia\'e i)assed many bergs and smaller pieces of ice.
Tlie small pieces are the most dangerous, as it is diili-
cult to see them in the night, especially when we are
runuino' in heavv weather. It is ditiicult at times to
distinguish ice from sea-caps. At noon we were in
latitude 60° 10'. We have made a run in the last two
HOMEWARD BOUND.
170
(la^'s of" tliree hniidrerl and fifty luilos. Ice made (piito
freely last ni2;lit, l)iit tlie temporatiiro is moderating to-
day. Many l)eri2:.s were in siii^ht tliis afternoon. The
barometer is hiu'h. and the cirrus clouds denote more
wind. Our longitude is approximately <>2° west. We
are about sixty miles of!:" Cape Oliidleigh, the south
cape of Hudson's Straits. We had snow-si|ualls
tlu-ou2fh the night.
Septeuiber 15. — ^Last evening the wind veered to
the east. The clouds had a dai'k and threatening
appearance, and we all h)oked for another storm.
Throusfh the nio-ht, however, tlie weatlier remained
very moderate ; indeed, nearly calm. We liad occa-
vsional snow-squalls, but there was only slight wind in
them. The weather has been calm nearly all day to-
day. This evenini>: we liave a light breeze from tlie
north. We still see bergs. Our longitude, by obser-
vation, is 60° 7' west; latitude at noon ;38° 59'.
September 1(3. — Cloudy, licavy- looking weather.
Tlie wind this afternoon liauled from north-west to
aouth-west. We had considerable snow and a very
strong breeze last niglit. In fact, the wind, if we had
not been runninii' off bef )re it, would have lieen called
a ofale. One beri? was seen last niglit. Many land
birds are around us, some ol' which come on b(»ar<l.
180
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
rest Hwliile, and then depart landward. Latitude at
noon 57° 9' north, longitude 58° 25' west.
September 17. — Yesterday evening the wind hauled
to the south-east. It soon increased to a strong breeze,
accompanied by rain. The temperature, whicli has
l)een quite low, has moderated. Tlio wind in the night
l)rought us down to storm-sails, l)ut it has decreased
to-dav. It is rainino-. We have seen no ice since
nii>;ht before last.
Septeml)er 18. — We had cahii weather last night.
This morning at 4 o'clock, the wind ])reezed from
the soutli-south-cast and brou«'ht a verv dense fos* with
~ I' ~
it. We are making very slow progress. The wind is
dead ahead.
September 19. — Yesterday evening the wind blew
strong fi'om the soutli-south-east, with rain. Toward
midnii^ht it veered to tlie south-west and brouii^ht the
Fht'cnce down to storm-sails. This morning it was
more moderate, but was still strong. We kept oil:'
under three reefed sails. The day is clear and bright.
A heavv sea is I'uimini^r. At noon our latitude was
55° 46' north, longitude 53° 39' west.
September 20. — Wind strong from the south. The
vessel is under storm -sails. Raining. The weather
HOMEWARD HOUND.
181
is the worst tliat can be imagined. One cannot con-
ceive anything equal to it. One storm follows another
in quick succession. Night after niglit we do not
know what it is to undress to sleep. It seems as though
all our ettbrts are required to keep the schooner above
water. '
8eptend)er 21. — We were under storm-sails all night.
Toward morning the wind veered to the west and staid
in that quarter two or three hours. It was very light,
however. At daybreak it hauled to the east, l)ut con-
tinued light. As there was a heavy sea running, it
was impossible to make any sail. At 9 a. m. I i)ut
three reefed sails on the vessel. There were then a
strono; breeze from the south-east, a tliick fog, and a
heavy swell, from yesterday's and last night's gale.
If this weather continues much longer we shall all be
web-footed. At 3 p. m. we again hove-to under close-
reefed foresail, with the wind about south true and
south-w^est by compass. The variation is 45° to the
west. Latitude 55° north, longitude 51° west.
September 22.— All last night the wind raged furi-
ouslv. Wv had no sail on the schooner except close-
t.'
reefed foresail, with the throat hauled down and the
storm-staysail lowered, so as to expose as little canvas
as possible to the fury of the blast. Toward morning
the wind abated, and at (> A..M. it had ceased entirely.
182
THE CRUISE OF THE FLORENCE.
We are now lying rolling in the licixvy swell left by
the giile. The weather is cloudy and heavy-looking.
11
Septenil)er 28. — ^ye lay all day yesterday wallowing
I the swell. At 3 p. m. a heavy, dense fog set in, and
fi
til
•th-east, l)riniri
I Of
at 8 a breeze car
The v'C'Ather soon became squally, the wind coming
from north-east and north. The nii^ht was intenselv
dark and stormy. At 11 p. m. the jibstay parted.
As this supported our mast, quick work was necessary
to secure it. All hands were called and all sail was
taken off the vessel, and she was kept directly before
tlie wind, to continue that course until such time as
the mast could be secured bv tackle. In doins; this
she reeled heavily and put three men under water, but
fortunately^ the plunge did no other damage. By 1
o'clock A. M. evervthiui? had been secured, and we re-
sumed our course under the squaresail. This morning
the wind was north, or a little west of north. I set a
close-reefed foresail. Raining and blowing fresh.
September 24. — Yesterday, at 11.30 a. m., the wind
hauled to the north-east and rapidly increased in force.
A very heavy sea was running. At 12 meridian we
came under storm-sails.
Septeml)er 25. — The gale has been most terrific.
At times we thou<xht tlie, littk^ schooner could not live
^ n i " I •i wi ^mm-^tmrn^^m n t n ' M
HOMEWARD nuUNI).
183
tbrougli it. It nioderatcMl this eveninu^ and niiii com-
iiieiiced falliii<^. At 11 i>. m, W(' k('|>t olt under close-
reefed forej^ail, storni-stay«ail, and bonnet otl:' jih.
September ili). — Came to anebor at St. Jobns, Xew-
foundbmd, and liere will rest awbile to reeiTiit. Wbile
bere we will repair oui' Jibstay and bend u new lore-
sail. In sucb weatber as we biive bad we need every-
tbing new and strong.