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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 A CANADIAN EXCURSION SUMMER OF 1885. !t A CANADIAN EXCURSION SUMMER OF 1885. BY FREEMAN C. GRISWOLD. (Printed for Private Circulation.) GREENFIELD, MASS. FIELD & HALL. BOOK AND JOB PRINTERS, MDCCCDXXXY. dMHHHI M MEMBERS OF PARTY. Mrs, John D. McKnicut, Miss Elizabeth Lee Bowles, Miss Cornelia H. Harris, Miss Sophie Stebuins, Miss Mary G. Stebbins, Miss Lulu B. Whitcomb, Miss J. Lillian Doty, Miss J. Edith Larremore, Miss Edith C. Brewer, Mr. Will. F. Baker, Mr. George D. Chamberlain, Mr. E. H. Hall, Mr. Frank B. Marsh, . Mr. Fred H. Stebbins, Mr Walter G. Stebbins, Mr. a. Oatman, Mr.*Free.man C. Griswold, Springfield, Mass. New York City. (4 Hartford, Conn. Springfield, Mass. Hartford, Conn. Greenfield, Mass. HP ,; " Memory is the best historian, and what I bring y )U here are but as outline drawings, to which your own memories must impart the fullness of form, the richness of coloring, and the fairy tints which the scenes themselves possessed." I »<««|E"ad of Lake Memphremagog, at which point we arrived at C) A. M., all having arisen and dressed for the fray some two hours earlier. About an hour later we begin our regular early breakfast. I love to look back on that first buffet breakfast, apart from the appetizing morsels so promptly served, because it is associated in my mind with two things : first, those lovely new travelling dresses — not yet become common-place by con- stant use as walking, travelling and party costumes, (even the A Canadian Excursion, celluloid "olliir "of Mr. M, still fresh and crisp), no cruel spark or cinder as vet ravay:inyr in their dainty folds, undressed kids not even hinting at holes or tears. We were indeed overpow- ered with the {esthetic shades of those costumes and rejoiced exceedingly at the small bags which the voung ladies carried, knowing that we were to hav( lo daily change of costume and that we were truly going in a direction away from Saratoga. I think even the girls were surprised to find how charming they could be with only one suit of clothes. Second, be- cause Mr. C. and Mr. M. bad not at that early meal for- mulated their afterwards celebrated "ticket system" of assigning partners at our various meals, a system so emi- nently fair and appropriate that there was no revolt until it was discovered that Messrs. C. and M. always drew prizes. Hut rising f'/? /)i((Sfte^ like the tides of the mighty river we were on, at the discovery of this barefaced plot, it was left to Miss II. and Mr. O., as representing the enraged party to arrange the seats not by a fortune so fickle, but by the more appropri ate test of each one's inclination, in order, as Miss li. felicit- ously expressed it, " that they all might look so happy." It waa the death blow to the " ticket system," and the course of true love ever after ran smoothly as we glided over the dark waters of Canadian rivers and regaled ourselves at the hospita- ble Canadian inns. But I am digressing. Let us return to that July Friday morning a» we go steaming down through the lovely valley of the Chaudiero to the storied City of Quebec. We are all in high spirits. We have just l)egun to get so well acquainted ! Our minds are freighted with anticipations of pleasures in Summer of 18S5. store and (lclii;]its hi. 2>r((>senti ^ no need of book or cigar or pack of cards to while away the time. Tlie villaiies nish by, as if we were on tlie Pennsylvania liailroad instead of tlie slow-<2;oini>- (Quebec Central. The darkey's i>ongs even prove an interruption to our pleasure ; and one in particular, (intro- ducing' to us a new nienil)er of our party, " AEr. Chingling,") provokes a look on the face of Miss II. more like a premature Lake l\[em[)hreniagog thunderstorm, than any other simile we have at hand. Why did we not have our j)hotographer along to j)ermanently preserve that glance i If he had been with us we could also have brought l)ack with our other souvenirs the following views : JNCr. ll.'s shine ; ]\[r. M. and Miss L, in their sheol representation ; ^[r. C. as the Knight of the haunnock; Miss D. as the Sleeping six o'clock beauty ; your historian in the act of taking a lesson in French or searching for a straw hat in the deep black waters oi the Saguenay ; but enough, we only had our photographer with us as far as Brattleboro, and the iickle |)hotograi)her of memory, aided by imagination is all we have. We ai'e in (Quebec ! Allow my Connecticut Yalley muse for one instant to try and raise herself into the misty, cloudy heights of this lovely scene. Alas I how can she appreciate or describe the scene that bursts upon our vision. There stands the famous, mighty city. She bids defiance to the world. Two ijiant rivers intersect each other at her feet, and yet their nughty waves and currents and tides break along lier Itase like little bi-ooks — so grand she stands ! What a peak ! AV^ell named Quebec. JJut our muse falters and staggers and whispering, " how much grander than the Agawam," falls 10 A Canadian Excursion, back utter'y worstcl in liertask. " It is France, not Eni; vehicle, which is the prevailinne of the few things they dldnH do. ^ Tliat night was the only one when we retired before twelve o'clock, iind even then one small i)arty escaped the watchful- ness of the chaperone and strolled out to view Quebec from the Esplanade by mooulight. There is no record of the hour of their return, but your historian imagines that, with Mr. C. for an escort, they nmst have returned very early— in the morning. And now again my muse halts. Who could do justice to those lialcyon days on the - Union P Who can ever forget the vai'ied panoramic beauties of that two lumdred and fifty miles upon the St. Lawrence and Sagnenay, or who can re- member or relate them all ? For twelve hours we rode down the broadening waters and between the receding banks of the St. Lawrence. Recall those hours now, my gentle comrade, and seems it not like a single moment ? Too soon the shades of evening close around ns, and we are at the mouth of the Sagnenay. With woiuler- ful self-control we had denied ourselves the pleasure of singing until this point sliouhl be reached. It was therefore with a good deal of (piiet satisfaction that we grouped ourselves on the forward deck just as our boat entered the Sagnenay. The 12 A Canadian Excursion, passeiu'-ers, most of thein apprelieiidiiii;- \vl)at was in store, prndentlv disappeared to other parts of the boat, save only the more hardy, who staid to listen to some of tliose ohl, familiar songs which are sung by young people whenever they get to- getlier f)n picnies, drives and exeursions, and which they carry with them wherever tliey go, into every continent upon the globe. But for a little while we couhl not sing, overpowered as we were hy the grandeur and beauty of the scenery. Leaving the broad and mighty St. Lawrence we turn into the dark and narrow Saguenay, palisaded witli liigh, rocky banks, its (k^ep, black waters lit only by the rays of the full moon. All felt the inspiration of the moment ; and as we proceeded further in- land, fanned by the warm breezes, that now and then rutHed the surface of these romantic waters, it seemed as if the old buying jwef a nascitur no u Jit might be reversed, if one could only be l)orn and live along these now uninhabited shores. But now we must sing. Mr. i^. has his book of songs, and with all the dignity of a Sunday School superintendent, he marshals our little lland for their first concert. 1 do not wish to criticize, Imt I must say that as a glee club we were not a success, though our glee as a club was nn])recedente(l. ^ We had scarcely finished our first effort over some well known Saxon melody wlieu a little grouj) of French ladies and gentlemen began" to sing. What a con'trast! Theirs were the words wliich charm and soothe. How inexpressibly approi)riate the warm words of their Southern tongue to the scene around us. As our boat cpiietly glides uj) this never before visited stream anything which takes us back or renunds us of home seems Summer of 1S85. >3 out of place, too cold and barreu. Thy wild, wioivl, riMiuuitic music of Offenbach, clothed in its native dress is at once in hanuony with the suiTonndinh ilic midnijjlu gloom diligenll)- peer, To see wliat dangerous clinracters are loitering here. Under the cover of the darkness. Choi Its — Hollo, hollo, I think 1 apprehend. Hollo, hollo, it's a case ot niiiliial fiiend. Two souls with hut a single thought, Two hearts as one that hlend, Under the cover of the darkness. I wonder what it's hesi to do. Shoidd I interfere ? No, it's not iny funeral, and that is very clear. Tliink I ought to let them know I can overhear. Under the cover of darkness." Ilis efforts were rewarded, and startled from their coverts, he succeeded in adjourning the crowd to the saloon, where all ])artook of tin early morning huich. " What have I ei'er done," that I should be selected to de- scribe what was, to me at any rate, an ideal Sunday. To be sure it was not like one of our boiiutifnl New P]ngland Sab- baths, to which I am attaclied by all the sentiments of custom, habit and iidierited instinct. But is there only one way to worship God ^ Is that the only true worship which escliews the glories of nature and substitutes the prosy words of the doctrinaire? If I have ever truly worshipped the onmiscieuce of the Almighty it was when we sailed past those two awful, grand and terrible rocks, known as Cape Eternity and ('ai>e Trinity. Our great steamer seemed like a little cockle-shell i6 A Canadian Excursion, boiieatli tlieir sluulow. Their very grandeur was intensified by the inuui!:e:; of f!ie Vii-gln and tlie cross j)laiited on their suni- niit.'^. Did we scoff at the credulity and superstition of those wiio liave ])l,iced tliese einhlenis tiiere i \o. We felt that faith and woi-ship inspii-ed their souls; and who of us should judge them I These great rucks preached to us the sermon of the insignificance of all men when with their pigmy minds they peer into the mysteries which hang around the grand and terrible objects of nature. Who will not say, with the poet, there are " books in the running brooks, sermons in stones, and good in everything." Riviere du Lou[) is still fresh in our minds. Tadousac, with its imck-boards and its historic cathedral Avill never be forgotten. We do not know which to doubt the most, wheth- er Parson Murray drove our buck-board over the rocky road or the tradition that the lamp which hangs in the little, old cathedral has been kept constantly burning for over two hun- dred years. It was midnight, we had passed out into the St. Lawrence ; we had reached Murray Bay ; a stop of an hour was an- nounced, and with our usual spirit of seeing everything there was to be seen, and doing everj'thing there was to be done, M'e left the boat and scaled the steep hill on which this Canadian summer resort is situated. We entered the parlor of the hotel and, having gained permission, we listened to ]y[r. C. sing. Whatever restrictions I may have passed on the singing of our party as a whole, allow me to state that I had no desire to re- flect in any way on our soloists. lie sang with splendid effect. All was bc'ightened by our surroundings. It seemed so strange Summer of 1SR5. '7 to be way up tlioro overlooking the grandly beiiutifiil St. Law- rence. Far l)elo\v 11s rested our boat on tlie hardly rippled river, extending out like a great lake to the coast of Maine, almost farther than the eye could reach. In another direction froin our lofty jiosition we could see nestling in tlic woods a little lake. And the whole scene bathed in moonlight! Every heart responded to the song. Once more we are in Quebec. It is six o'clock Monday morniuir. From that houi- till the honr we leave — two o'clock in the afternoon — we crowd into the rapidly flying mimites more pleasure and instruction tlian wouhl seem possible. I will not attempt to describe it all, I will only mention what all remember so well — The Place d'Armes, Durham and Dufferin Terrace, Governor's (larden, the Ursuline Convent the Esplanade, the Citadel, the Parliament Ihiildings, the Martello Towers, Wolfe's Monument beai-ing those fateful words, " Here fell Wolfe victorious ;" the Battery and La- val University. I cannot forbear recalling however our visit to the French Cathedral, where a slight fee gave us the privilege of examining the robes of the priests used on state occasions. At sight of each new vestment the girls could not suppress their ci-ies of delight. ''Oh is'nt that lovely ! Oh I Oh I " was heard on all sides, to the anmsemont of the gentlemen who felt as if they were atan opening of Jor- dan and Marsh's rather than in the presence of sacred things. Our entry into the various stores, bent on shopping, caused a perfect stampede, we bought everything, from a toboggan to a pair of gloves. Hundreds of dollars' worth of "Souvenirs" crossed the line that night, which, thanks to the good fortune 1 8 A Canadian Excursion, of luiviiiij^ ii Sunday Scli;))! s".ii)oi'inteiidoiit on board, escaped all duty. An Orthodox deayjn could lut have performed this delicate duty better. And then that group! What ma- niacs we sojmed to the gonial photo ^raphur. Dinner at one thirty P. M. What, must we really go! And then for the first time a feeling of sadness came ovei us, as we began to reahze that we were indeed going lioine. This was the only mar to our pleasure, the only cloud over- hanging tlie remainder of our trip. Old and experienced boarding-school girls said they never saw anything like the ease with which young girls on board, who had never before been away from tlieir parents had been able to reconcile them- selves to the situation. " Why,'' said one to me, " when I went away to school, we gathered round the piano the first night and sang ' Home, Sweet Home ' and cried all the evening." I ventured to ask, "Do \< tliink you would have done so, if you had gone to a school wiiere they believed in co-education?" But I could only extract the naive reply, " The gentlemen of this party have been very kind and thoughtful." The ride back to Newport was not devoid of incident. Owing to some accident, we had to do without our luxu- rious Monarch car. However we were easily consoled when we found that our new car had movable seats, for, removing all the seats to one side of the car, we proceeded to dance the Virginia reel, which became a perfect break down as our car with its precious load reeled over the rough and uneven track. On reaching Newport we found comfortable quarters awai- ting us, a few were favored with letters from home and ^ e realized that we were back once more in the United States. Summer of 1885. «9 Tuesday was our last day, and we deterniiiied to make a day and (as the sequel shows) a iiii^ht of it. "We begaii well hy jjjoin^ without breakfast, u scheine which 18 recoinuieuded to all travellers desirous of gaining time. The events and incidents of that day are still fresh in our mem- ory. Imagine a girl of charming conversational powers at your side, the occasional interruptions of orchestral musicy the st(j[)s at various points along this most beautiful of Ameri- can and Canadian lakes, the air cool and refreshing; and you liave a })rogrannae which turns a hot July day into Elysium. On our way up the Lake we 8top])ed at the Mountain House and enjoyed a row, at least your historian did, and he cannot be expected to relate in i)articular the })leasures which he did not enjoy. Shortly after returning on board there was a cry of "man overboard !" "who is it^' we shouted. " Puncheon,'' was the answer. Who is Puncheon^ well now Puncheon was a most intimate companion of one of the young ladies. I had never known him before by that name, and fearing that some others may be as ignorant, I will give you the name of liis younger brother — Vinaigrette. If this should not suffice, I will state that he was a bottle of cologne. Of course -the loss of the Puncheon was of more im])ortance than that of a real man would have been, so when it was discovered that the article in (piestion had been left at the Mountain House several volun- teered to go after it. It was ca[)tured in triumph by Mr. O. and returned to its weeping owner. If our party as a party should ever adopt a crest, I would suggest a puncheon ram- pant. But why is Mr. M. so sleepy ? Alas that night on the Sague 90 A Canadian Excursion. nay is I'Jist and