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WRITER Indites these pages as voluntary informatiou and, possibly, amusement for fellow pleasure-seekers of the angle- craft ; and In acknowledgement of cheerful assistance and uni- I form courtesy towards him- self and companions, during many days and nights of very enjoyable travel be- tween Ottawa and the Rocky Mountains, by the officials of the Canadian Pacific Railway Company. On an exploratory fishing and shooting trip in unsettled and distant parts of Can- ada, such as some of mine have been, the stop-over tickets and coupons provided for sportmen's baggage have been peculiarly serviceable. I was bound nowhere in par- ticular, but desired to stop wherever the fancy seiz ' ^e or my companions ; anywhere that the waters looked fishy, w< • >ds were leafy and cool, and the scenery of forests, fields, mountains or lakes promised to intensify our holiday delights. At any such inviting localities (rarely known in advance) we were liable to be tempted to alight and to pitch a tent, then launch a canoe, cast a fly, rig a troll or handle a gun ; yet our sometimes trying A KOBNnrO CATCB. ® 1 4 jTsrrooy rnovt. mmmm Tw .p^lniS ".d looamu. for .»h,ng. e.no.,n, »- the >«Uon .gent. «rc«t rf 'T" 2^,,,, „.„, „, Hero.B.y "rrr..f Xintend v«,.g N.p.g.n ';>■»""■ P-"X* 'f. agreeable compliance on n-who know how much ur wants and whims and luallflcd to estimate the the transportation com- B and the Initial point of in which the craft justly Joyment in angUng over iinlnlon of Canada, enable J and western resorts of r of the newly accessible akes Huron and Superior, ted. For that reason the written, without fee or faith by anglers, to whom jx fishing, canoeing and le. railroad route eastward of (vith light canoes, either of n be brought from Toronto, n advance through some of Bay or Sudbury Junction, iperior west of Heron Bay ^, procurable at Peninsula Guide' and men must be ron river can procure nearly 'requisites at the Hudson's Its, l)eddlng, clothing and j m Indians usually employed dsmeti and guides; and are anil canoes before starting, jn. Hudson's Bay Company's n. This gentleman is tlior- KHriMATK OF EXHUyniCS. oughly Informed and very obliging. He can engage men and canoes, and procure an outfit at any time ; but the pick Is by early prearrangement, and to i)e quite certain of having all your require- ments, a list, accompanied by money, should be sent him a few days in advance, so that any deflclencies In his stock Inay be sup- plied from Winnipeg. Apart from railroad fares or hotel bills, the outlay Incurred for one or two months depends upon the number and tastes of each party ; and four or five persons can tlgure out to "find" and feed themselves almost as cheaply as one or two. Clothing, provisions and camp outfits need not cost, for each person, over $1.25 per day. Tackle and flshing- gear can be had for $20, tliat will last for several seasons. Guides and hired canoes cost from $2 to $4 per day for two men and one canoe. Their dally feed, say forty cents each. A single angler can manage with one canoe and two Indians ; and a party of three or four would merely double that estimate, unless every man weighs 250 pounds and carries a cannery of eatables and drinkables along with him. Every additional canoe means also a brace of Indians, two mouths, and as many appe- tites as there are stoppages In each day's journeying, or idle hours between daylight and darkness. One word more. Don't leave wives, daughters, sisters and sweethearts behind on the plea of expense. It Is poor economy. I believe that if some men would spend half of what they do In buying themselves off from the delightful encumbrance, these charming creatures could nowadays participate In the inspiriting pleasures of our angling trips, without the slightest danger of family bankruptcy. Just think how much brighter the waters appear, how much lovelier the woods seem, and what a grace of gentleness pervades the wildness and romance of our surround- ings when " the girls " are In canoe and camp with us ! And a mere trifle of extra cost suffices thus to " paint the lily " of our joyous outdoor life. # ■f) 1 -jis»a.aii'ir4&ftj>».ffl-- HKP/OOy THOIT. A GUIDE TO THE RIVER AND LAKE. Before beginning my story. Hon.e general - J^J ;/ J',';. NepiRon river and lake may not come amlsH ; and I havt th Suge of Dr. Robert Bell's report to the Canadian Geologi- Tal Survey (Rept. Geo. Surv. of Can., l««7-«. PP- f " ■^«*/ ''.'^ C) to check and supplement my personal knowledge of this '"rpfgon "L met northern point of the triangular out ,in?of L^ke Superior, and into it ttows the river >ve are about B«D BOCK BBTTLBMBNT, NWMON BAT. to ascend. It is the largest river received by the lake and mZLr^ all others iu having Clearwater. This character st and its size, together with the fact of its draming the largest Jrea tributaiy to Lake Superior, entitle it to ^e jn^idered^ the continuation of the St. La^vrence beyond Lake Superior, with whkhit connects Lake Nepigon, thirty-one miles distent, iruorth The following Is Dr. Bell's description of the river. »x t i fffnm! f m» tim AND LAKE. jencpal accourtt of tJip : ainlsH; and I have the o the Canadian Geologi- 18«7-«. pp. 313-304, with sonal ijnowledge of this int of the triangular out- s the river we are about !■ EPIOON BAT. eceived Ijy the lake, antl water. This characteristic, •f its draining the largest ;le it to be considered as ;e beyond Lalie Superior, 1, thirty -one miles distant, I's description of the river. DSSCRIPTlOy OF NEPiooy nivsR. wliich >, 111 explain the accompanying map. and the points of our various adventtu'e.'^ :— "Four lalces occur in its course. . . • The lowest of them. Lake Helen, is only one mile from Ked Rock, a Hudson's Bay Company's pcjst at the head of Neplgon harbor. At the out- let of this lake (where the railway now crosses) the river Is very narrow, apparently only about one hundred yards wide, and sweeps around with a strong current (estimated by Admiral Bayfield at four and one-half knots an hour) for a distance of about half-a-mlle, between banks of border-drift from thirty to forty feet high. Lake Helen, which runs due north. Is about eight miles long and one mile wide. The upward course of the river leaves the west side of this lake nearly at right angles to the ehore. For six miles from this point, in a northwesterly direction, it has a width of about five chains, with deep water and a moderately strong current, flowing in a bed of alluvial sandy clay, with Laurentlan gneiss close to the east side, sometimes approaching quite to the brink of the river; while, on the west side the same rock comes to the water toward the end of this sketch. " Here the river makes a slight bend to the right and Is broken by a slight chute at Camp Alexandria. At one-quarter of a mile above this point the Long rapids begin, and continue for two miles ; but In ascending the river they are avoided by turning Into a brook on the west side, and following It for about three- quarters of a mile, and from it a portage of one mile and a half brings us up to the foot of Lake Jessie. This lake, which Is three miles long, and is studded with Islands, Is separated from Lake Maria, Immediately above it, and two and one-lmlf miles In length, by The Narrows, six or eight chains wide, in which there Is a strong current, with a fall of six Inches or more. " A very high, west-facing cliff of columnar trap anproaches the river from the southwestward, at the head of Lake Maria, and runs from this point. In a tolerably straight course, all along the east side of the river to Lake Neplgon. Trap cllffe also occur on thp west side of the river from Lake Maria to Cedar port««e ilKPlGOif TKUUr. yards long. A mile ana 1" ^^^, „f t^e river. Emma, bet on a 'ower lev , yards is made across •'„"", : .trSfSowl, 8 »m ilue H.,,n»h, which !,.» . ™.nti mile. tag. »!« •» »'™"» o" ? * ";"; '.Sf^iSTt rlTr:i.r.S;-".=: p-r^C .he.„ore heeome. "C'-hor^ .-. ireherll, holder, .nd «,e .«er 1. deeper alon; oppo read enoii Held largi tlie Hud Tl .313 ttiat rive L t>eii lant dial nm liei the wei coi we we tic al gr so sai lii b( in le e: This portage Is 250 it there Is another diddle of the river, tage the One-Mile sad of this portage, te, across a narrow •om the lower level. ;e of the river, just ;ast shore of Lake J the chute to a dis- yards is made across ; been mentioned. Between it and the 1, a distance of some I lowest of which is 1 extremity of Lake aters of the Nepigon for one-quarter of a lannah, which has a rour miles more, In a ad of Lake Hannah, [lile in length, carries 8 outline is extremely le west of north and readth is about fifty. lOUgh the largest bay e; this bay is nearly J a mile wide. These iss than 580 miles of ;reat service when the 8 of the sliore becomes the water is deeper , . . ■ , r ■ -.u, V ■ -. w^". ■-.'■' ■"■.~T::;z^v^a^.'^tL'-' *'^r'Tf^-fTir '■*''*r''' """^ •'ririri VESCRIPTIOM Of LAKE NEPWON. T-ri-Tn'~,T-n"""'"""^^''"'"Hl 9 ,,„„ H». I^Juto^ and western margins of the lake than oouosll^ in oie P^ac« a sounding-line 540 feet long failed to •^^iSl hnttom Streams in great numbers, -several large :::u'gh^orT„T^^^^^^^^ o^-'-^- ^ -ra^ri;;: « w f „r .■cnloratlon -pour into this spacious basin. The at esHf remTsTe-KayUk, or Gull ^^<^-^^^^^^^;:Z:Z the Southwestern "corner,"and at the mouth of whicli .s the Hudson's Bay post, Poplar Lodge. The Nenijron river is now the only outlet of the lake, laumg ,13 feefin its swift course to Superior; but there is evidence tiat formerly water escaped through Black Sturgeon lake and ".X ^::igirdr rmtrler great lakes of Canada by betn^ studied with ishrnds, which add much to the beauty of its «„H:oane These vary in size from eight miles in their prmcipal laS down to Te merest Islets, and probably the whole nnmbeTta the lake exceeds a thousand. Excellent soil ex.sts h^^c^d there, sometimes extensively, all around the lake, .K wv,« wLest tract of good land appears to lie on the south- t!l;,«,dr For^^^^^^^^^ north of the Nonwatan river the i: ^ omplt"^^^^^^ level and fertile to a .-at dls^nce oVj^L A almilarlv level and fertile region extends north- Tster" from SSa bay. and at many other points coloni^- Zt feasible. Farming has. in fact, been carrl^ on there for a long time, at several localities, by the Indian traders. Th! climate is as well suited to agriculture as that of he Ja4 pa" of the Province of Quebec; timber of a servu=eab e r .« nlpntlful- brick-Clays, lime and building-stone abound; ::ls:riC^e^ku:r; ./d the -y .probably nearw^^^ these TinXTn::rrrerg:rru^^^^^^^^^^ being to the same series as the copper-bearing ledges surround- ?ngTake superior, and that not «"ly -«- -PP;Vt7some S, but gold and lesser minerals are recognl .ed. and to some extent have already been mined. LAKE NIPISSING TO LAKE SUPERIOR. Finding our places at Ottawa, tlie capital of the Dominion of Canada, one evening early in July, ou board a luxurious sleeper of the night express from Montreal to Vancouver, we break- fasted at North Bay, on Lalce Nipissing. This extensive lake still abounds in bass, pickerel, maskinonge, whiteflsh and forked-tall trout. A cluster of wooded islands with rocky shores and gravelly bays lies outside of the village ot North bay, about four miles from the railroad station, where camping Is good and flsliermcn are usually lucky. The north- western, southern and eastern corners of the lake receive streams of considerable volume, within the mouths of which sport with rod and troll is always certain. French river, which forms the southwestern outlet draining that part of the lake Into Georgian bay (the eastern expansion of Lake Huron), Is studded with Ishinds and cut into deep and tortuous channels, where the best of trolling and live-bait Ashing is found. Maskinonge of rape size frequent these haunts. I saw one of seventy-two pounds welglit caught in a net, and have myself taken them with troUlng-gear all the way up to forty pounds. There are three long, narrow, winding arms at the westerly end of the lake. Into each of which small streams empty, and weedy and rushy bays intervene. Among the pretty Islets and gravelly shoals of these indentations, very fine bass are caught with gaudy-flies, minnows, or metal baits. I took last summer, with an artiflcial fly, in a single forenoon, eight black bass weighing from two to five pounds. They rose briskly and played vigorously. I could have captured twenty, that same day, while paddling about in my small canoe. I have efffected many exciting captures of heavy and determined flsh hereabouts, but much prefer the stream-flshlng for river trouts, with finer tackle, as practised farther westward. The extension of railway lines now open from Toronto to North Bay renders access to all of these enticing waters quite easy. tl ci S t< r c q Vt.-o5? V:ri n, eight black bass ey rose briskly and wenty, that same day, I have effected many flsh hereabouts, but uts, with finer tackle, sion of railway lines iders access to all of LAKE yiPISSIifO TO LAKE SVPEBIOR. 11 Between Nlpissing and Sudbury Junction, where a branch of the railroad leads down towards Lake Huron, at Algoma Mills, crossing on the way numerous unfished localities, we passed the Sturgeon and Wahnapltae rivers without feeling keenly tempted to prove their untried waters. Beyond Sudbury .Junction the frequent glimpses of Spanish river, and its redstoned fork, the Vermillion, whose broken currents and cascades looking very trouty, alternate with tran- quil stretches shaded by leafy trees and set off by piney woods,— a A HKDnm-BIZKD STUUK. back-ground of forest primeval,— made our fingers tingle for a passing cast. Again near Straight lake, and at Metagama, we could scarcely resist the temptation to jump off and pitch an exploratory camp. Trout are reported abundant and the scenery Is romantically diversified. But there Is a constant succession of similar places westward of Biscotasing. We saw plenty X)f chain-lakes and smallish streams all along the height of land MparaUng the drainage of Lake Superior from that Into Hudson's -.• ^iMrr a Mafl ow m i Mff ^ .m 12 N£PWoy THOUT. bay, to whose salt waters we could easily lia\e tloated In our canoe with very few portasres Biscotasing seems to be a desirable place for outflttinp; an excursion. It Is conveniently situated on Biscotasing lal"^ lia\'c floated in our iiig seems to be a It Is conveniently f a network of bays. Ill of flsli. ssed l)eyon(l here aiv m be fished from the has more rapids an»°'™» '".'>« Tf he keeps his "mouf" shut and his hat on. Neither »ft.tJieff 'iy^Srs- le that forbids flshlng with an «««*- J-^S Jtead of a cock's hackle, or trailing a '>«™'«hed »onp^'^le with a string of cellar meat-hooks across a pool. »«»"«««'» Ti^cy mlnnol. If It serves the purpose In vie- 2^^ Inirlers and anglers, many of them as good as the othera. and sJme beS^han either If the most artful deceptions of Zn«l aSng are surer, and therefore deadUer. than clumsy SSr?rra'nd coarse deceits, the dons «' -»>-;^--^^ be reconciled In self-defence to count in with the genertl aver ie of sporting humanity. Were a fish vote to be poUed on the ^pectlve merits of succulent angle-orms.Wr sWners »d lulcy grasshoppers, although the barb was moulted before the SS wS stomached, can anybody Imagine the^ preferring a bnnch of mixed feathers tinseled on cold steel, either as a mT^Dtece or a morsel? The vote would probably mean : -AT ZT21%. vote forvlctuals. ,Ch^U«H^^av^ boay and versatile practlcallst among angling Utewtl, who^ 'W^Slmiai-' w kno a si elec foil (I sair asp] Tho "p( by moi on I pall Mca Epi are I q flsb wrl pri pu a I afl of cai sic wtf jjtwia r,i^irr «Mat)MM>H>MW*w< Vimi Wi THE ARUVMKST VOSTINVKD. 19 knows by experience what top-crust Ashing means, and Is withal a shrewd judge of anglers, says a fair word for every duly elected member of the modernized " Diet of Worms," In the following phrases ; — ^ - .u " Fly-tlshing and balt-llsliing are co-ordinate branches of the same study, and each must be thoroughly learned to qualify the aspirant to honors for tiie sublime degree of Master of the Art," That Is well said. He admits that fly-fishing illustrates the "poetry" of tlie gentle calling. Let us offset tiiat admission by recollecting how bait-flshers have been praised in verse far more than glorltled fly-men. Cynics have impaled both of them on pens as sharp and points as barbed as their own hooks. The palm for antiquity belongs to the former. Jeremiah mourns the scarcity of flsli as compared with the abundance of earthworms. Epitaphs on anglers Immortalize worms, whilst Imitation flies are treated as ephemeral emblems of man's fleeting existence. I quote one epitaph, a century old, to remind the haughty fly- flsher that the common destiny of all flesh should make him wriggle with fits of humility : — John Day, au aiiKler of renown, Moulderii beneath this Btone, With worm he caught the speckl'd trout, But to his home he's Kone. Worms for his bait, he'd many a feast, We'll never see him more : His body's gone, and in its turn, Must feed worms by the score. A frequent visitor at our camp-flre was one whose theory and practice in balt-flshlng were original, for he was accustomed to put an assortment of baits on the same cast, " to give the trout a choice." How good his stories were, you can feel sure of after a glance at his countenance, which sliows the very soul of jollity. Loath to depart, we Uirrled long and lazily at this favorite, campment, angling at leisure and reading, bathing, eating and sleeping at our own sweet wlU. The murmurous music of the m il se \KPJOOy TROUT. rushing and dashing rapids abreast of us, eclioed In fitful cadences against the opposite cliff, was a soothing accompani- ment to daytime reveries in tliesoft hazy sunlight ; and iu drowsy rhythm lulled us gently to sleep when night's peiiceful nresence hushed all other sounds. Neither niosquitos, blacktlies nf>r midges disturbed our serenity. We smoked and veiled and culAxifuged them by day, and snored them to scorn by night. Perfect Idle- ness and the unspeakable luxury of restful quietude were varied now and again by poling or portaging our canoe upon the Kwlft currents, and then, after catching a few flsli, we would run down stream homewards through the exciting rapids. kee a-ir and the on( sty blp 1 as da; sm sei ani Bu be pu fo sa be CO TBB 8T0RV-TELLKR. There was a squatter family of juvenile chipmunks locate*" beside our camp. These cheeky urchins rustled about our cook- ery at meal-hours and took charge of the larder during our absence. Their sociability was sometimes excessive, until one morning an inquisitive youngster tripped across the frying-pan and warmed his too familiar paws on a hot comer of the gridiron ; then he limped off s<|uealing among his companions, who returned next day but ever after kept a safe distance from the fire-place. Even when mischievous, they were always amus- ing and companionable. la CJ cl cl bi bi SI 81 -"^•"-^^Kwaftff'^wfef (^S^ iH, eclioed In fltfnl Kiothlng accompani- ight ; and iu drowsy 's peuceful nresence blackflies nor inidgex lied and culnxifuged night. Perfect Idle- juletude were varied :anoe upon tbe cwlft flsh, we wonW run Qg rapids. V ! ciiipmunlcs locate itled about our cook- e larder during our excessive, until one icross the frying-pan d hot comer of the DHg his companions, a safe distance from ly were always amus- l.AK/CS JKSSm AND MAHIA. SI Near the camp we had a stony enclosure at the river's edge for keeping trout alive, and frtquently led our fighting captives half- a-inlle from the hooking-place into this reservoir. Nimble minks and sportive otters, unseasonably clad In faded furs, used to take their toll out of it occasionally, under cover of darkness, and once emptied the pond of six four-pound fish In four-footed style fully equal to the nocturnal reUef of a crowded hen-roost by biped Ethiops. The next day we caught and killed four other large trout, and as they hung \ipon a stump close In front of our tent, In broad daylight, an unsatlated mink crept furtively over the ledge and smelt of them right before our eyes. After Informing his keen sense of their complete freshness, he seemed to wink at himself and gilded away with an air of " They'll do for supper to-night ! " But they didn't. We euchred him by expressing them to Ottawa before sundown. How to keep and dispose of the fish one catches is often puzzling. The simplest and most portable preservative I have found consists of a powder composed of two parts of common salt and one part of finely powdered boracic acid. This may be used as a pickle in tubs and kits, or for a moist wrapping in cotton cloth and brown paper, after cleaning the flsh. LAKES JESSIE AND MARIA. A brisk walk of three miles over barren hills enables us to launch into I^ake Jessie, an expansion of the Neplgon, which joins with Lake Maria (a second expansion) by a crooked rapid called The Narrows, where fishing Is fair and the tenting-ground clear and comfortable. Both of these lakes are of beautifully clear water, and the wooded, mountainous scenery on thehr banks is enchanting. It was on one of those stilly days when the air is so warm and balmy that canoers seem to bathe in Its reflection on the glassy surface, that we paddled through the mirrored sky and pictured softness of the leafy shores. One needs to see these waters on r 22 NEPIOOy TROVr. such a clay to fully appreciate their extreme purity. We appeared to be moving through inverted hill-sld<-s thinly covered with evergreens and nuiples, birches and poplars, berry bushes and wild flowers, so clearly were the bordering mountains and unburnt woods reflected In the lalie. Here is an example : From an old rampike, projecting over tlie water, hung a trailing vine on which a solitary lady-bug was basking herself in the sunshine. The tree, the creeper and the Insect were minutely shadowed underneath us ; and as we passed, a trout swam along and darted at the shadow of the lady-bug. Do not smile, incred- ulous reader ; I really did see the shadow, the tree, and a bright- hued Insect clinging to the ivy ; also I saw a fish swimming across the picture. Isn't that enough for an enthusiastic angler to have seen In order to justify a tale? If you think not, then you are not used "to flsh stories.* We dawdled along to a camping ground near the entrance Into I^ke Maria, and there landed. Here, too, one can make a fair cast. Luckily we camped early and securely, for a drenching rain-storm, with terrific thunder and lightning, succeeded the loveliness of the daytime. Seldom have I rested under such an elemental racket. Although the darkness was pitchy the whole lake fronting, us was made visible and seemed aflre with flashes of electricity; and as the slanting rain-drops were pelted into the water, and waves and spray were thrashed along by the driving wind, the sheeted lightning played upon them a contin- uous blaze of aCrlal artillery, seeming at times to envelop and confuse them like a fleeing and disordered army. The thunder- clouds appeared to roll down the mountain sides and tumble together Into the lake at Its foot with a bewildering crash, through which the forked lightning broke with terrifying sharpness, shaking every animate and Inanimate thing around like a smoth- ered explosion of nitro glycerine. We were dry and snug enough, for the tent-poles and guy- ropes held fast; and when, toward midnight, we crept again to the front and opened the tent-flap, the lake was calming down and We saw the HtreamloK moon flee through the iky. Panned by all the dark and hungry cloud*. T seal gle< wit ash " c Jes len isli fui SU( ch at tb Be dl w! of a£ P' P' re U t1 i""«SB purity. We appeared thinly covered with XH, berry bushes aiui ring mountains and [ere is an example : vater, hung a trailing iisking herself in the Insect were minutely 1, a trout swam along Do not smile, incred- he tree, and a bright- aw a fish swimming m enthusiastic angler * you think not, then near the entrance into >, one can make a fair rely, for a drenching itnlng, succeeded the I rested under such ness was pitchy the ind seemed aflre with ain-drops were pelted thrashed along by the i upon them a contln- timcs to envelop and army. The thunder- aln sides and tumble Idering crash, through terrifying sharpness, ; around like a smotb- e tent-poles and guy- ?ht, we crept again to was calming down and ugh the tkjr, louda. spur HOCK TO IIAMILTOX'S POOL. =„o„* Wp lav down again, and slept like Sseve'ral fresh and active fellows who must have been fast asleep throughout the tempest. Split Rock is sometimes called Cedar Portage^ Itls the^st .. carry" on the long stretch upwards from the foot of Lake Jessk^and 18 awUd-looklng pUce. The river Is deep and turbu- Sat the mouth of the pass, but around the lower side of ^e IsUnd-rock there is capital fishing when the stream Is low ; and urtherdown on either side the «^^aUo^'nS corner^^ c^S successfully with the fly. There are gravel ridges wit^ clayey chaTels between them; across which the trout pass and repass^ aJSng a^d pUy times. When hooked on such casts where 1 cient is swift and curling, they are dlfflc^t customers^ Bet^In this rapid and the Inlet to Lake Maria aownwar^^ distance of about three miles, there are several pretty caste wE can be conveniently fished from a campment on the shore Tf theTke, as canoeing up and down is easy and makes an agreeable variety In the dally pastime. Next above Split Rock la Ishmd Portage, where, also, a nne the easterly side. The next point Is Hamilton's pool. THE WITCHERY AT HAMILTON'S POOL. This famous locality Is a tangle of whlripools. J^e Nepigon river having just tumbled madly through a rock-bound piws. icapes Imoni patches of boulders and ledges into a horso-Bh« bavwith™deep bend to the right. There are upper and under cSrln s. outH !e and Inside circles, crossing and counter-c«.s.. log ties mil A the foi att trc Int to| lik 86' ini dil to fr an ca tb P< zl 8< 81 r( tl o 8 tl a 8 C c I 3 CASTINO Hf HAMILTOK'S FOOL. 26 1/ If r >^ mg currents, the form a.ul number and (ilrectlons of which baffle description, and which seen, to vary every time they meet, mingle or diverge. Where these separating and remixing currents impinge upon the stony shore, three ridges of bowlders and gravel are formed in the bottom, betwixt which the constant boring and attrition of tlie much troubled waters have scooped out irregulai troughs and ragged pot-holes. These troughs are, at recurring inten^als, filled with subsldent water, where the trout hud^e together ; but every few minutes the strong eddies clean them out like sluiceways,- fish, pebbles and all. The ^h«^^ ^P'"'^ °' several yards then becomes a mass of rushing, bubbling, swirl- ing, hissing and foaming water, in which hundreds of trout of diLent sL maybe seen wriggling about, in vain endeavo s to keep their snouts in the master current, and save thenise ves from ^ing washed bodily clean out of the pool, or cast ashore among the rocka. Every now and again some ««Pr«™« «ff«jjj; cappi by ten or a dozen dripping and frolicsome fish throw ng themselves wildly into the air, tails over heads, and tumbling pell-mell back again into the suds. , t ~ „ f^n Although this singular performance seems to onlookers afren- ried sort of aerial antics, the method of its madness s e«.lly seen when each trout strikes a length or so beyond the «t«>°8««» swirl of the surface turmoil and enters at the curly rim of some Tt":;:Sfu[work to draw a ^y through this fluvial commo^ tlon. An artificial or a live bait may be cast into it ^ th thea^^ «£ a sinkered leader and stifflsh rod, but «n «"> '"f**"* "^^ j^J' ' gyrating close to one's feet, and the long line '«««";»«»'»°8?;""; Z pof trout that drummed she twirled about like re so clumsily that the 1, but Kenise insisted tie spirit trout, declar- g to upset the canoe, rase Kahxeeenkayahbe, more of that fooling. " your afraid," where- irbarian contempt and 3h some sarcasm equi- ir to tread." 1 and camped late the ipty frying-pan cried 'where else, perhaps consciences with old I need refreshments y nture, I paddled alone ittering minnow-troll ids weight ; and after id bubbling ripples, I that had so impressetl e was split along the , seasoned with salt, with commeal, and >wing coals, stinctively at the bare lied with good humor aks English like one deviltry that Kenlso imagined in the pool. His answer at first was a mysterious h"S!r^e GraSually his Ojibway taciturnity was relaxed and he told us all about the enchanted pool, and the Legend of Nahmayoos-chahsuhkeed-equa. This is It : " Great many years, whiteraencame Lake Nepigon trlTKUcki-Gami, Big Sea-Water and teU I"^;- f «PJ;^^;^:'^ ..ftt theirselfs, and no catch fish or shoot things tept real h«n^y,^ea«se wicked. Teach us Good-Spirit day aun.d^e.- tSeTu^, big rest time. Injun play (pray) -d sleep ««d^. Manito fetch plenty more game other Jays. Bad spirit cateh somebody bimeby if don't mind ourselfs, ««;«f^° J^'^" ^^^^ Smiday lot Injuns camp 'longslde this pool. White Injun, young mCionS. teke pole and flshin' jes' where you was with kind o- witch, woman-trout, swim close up and ««l^J>«y'^^^^ under. Never see again. Can't never save any trout neither^ Broke sumthin ebery time Sundays. Poor place for flshlu anyhows ! " Nothing was said by us to weai^en this useful f-^J^^^^^; tarian thrift. But I felt curious to learn if he, himself, reaiiy b""the plausible legend. I asked him to explain why so Itch commotton existed In .he pool at other times, and why so «,onw flah were lost there on week days. ZJel wJeq^al to the occasion. He said that he supposed that thS '^hurly-burly" was caused by the squirmlngs of the !,« mortar The air bubbles were his escaping breath, and captive mortal. The air ^""^ strusglcs to escape from whirlpools were made by his frantic struggles i, i The fishy embrace of the enchantress; while the gl«J trou* were dancing and leaping about In Wlarious mockery of tl^r r«W4>e captor's grotesque contortions. J^T h^^oi got hooked, the fisher's tackle became entangled in the turmou ^"1 m rnr. RinEim song. 99 and the flsh was freed. If not, the guardian witch frayed the casting-line with a comb, in the shape of a fish's backbone, which she always carries in her right hand; while a scalp-lock In hor left grip is believed to have been sawed from the greasy poll of the raped half-breed by the same novel hair-dresser. Of course, I forbore to spoil these harmless delusions by closer questioning of Michel, but I could not help asking myself, Where does the untutored savage get fast hold of such slippery tales? They are neither original or aboriginal, but taste of com- mon origin and smell of civiUzed manufacture. The present incident is so much like the German poet Goethe's fantastic satire on the " human art and human guile," that lure the finny brood "to die in scorching air," I am tempted to copy it for comparison. Mayhap that is whence It was imported into " the land of the Dacotahs," where Hiawatha's clever conceits have done poetic duty for Ojlbway tradition. The witch and the «iren are not unlike. Listen, then : There wm a gentle angler who angled in the sea, With heart as cool as any heart, untaught of love, could he. Wlicn suddenly the waters rushed — and swelled — and up there sprung A humid maid of beauty's mould — and thus to him she snog : "Why dost thou strive sonrtfully to lure my brood away, And leave them then to die beneath the sun's all-scorching ray ? Could'st thou but tell how happy are the flsh that swim below. Thou would'st with me, and taste of Joy which earth can never know. Docs not bright Sol, Diana too, more lovely far appear, When they have dipped In ocean's wave their golden silvery hair? And is there no attraction In this heav'nly expanse of blue, Nor is thy Image mirrored In this everlasting dew?" The water rushed, the water swelled, and touched his naked feet, And fancy whispered to his heart It was a love-plcdgc sweet. She snug another siren-lay, more witching than before; H«U»Pulled— half-plunghig— down he sank, and ne'er was heard of more. % 80 JfSPItiOX TROUT. AT THE HEAD OF THE RIVER. The river, Just above the caiion at Big Canoe, leads up to a narrow and wild passage called White's cliute, nearly at a right angle to the stream, where a short carry connects it with Lake Emma. I consider this one altogether the prettiest of these small lakes. Near its upper end a track crosses into Lake Han- nah, and continues over the westerly side into a long arm of Lake Nepigon, named the Soutli bay. Adventurers can pass around this way to the outlet above tlie High falls, on their way up, and return by the river. From Lake Emma upwards by Camp Victoria, the river is full of small islands and rapids, where a great variety of successful casts may be tried. Along- side the great rapids emptying out of Lake Nepigon is Camp Creighton, a most interesting spot from which one gets a view of High falls, which are at tlie very point where the river emerges from the lake as will be seen by reference to the very carefully drawn map whicli accompany these pages. The circular basin at tlie foot of these falls is usually filled with fish, some of the largest being laku-trout, weighing from ten to twenty pounds. They are taken with live bait or strong spinning tackle. If any one wants a greater variety, let him cruise about the main Lake Nepigon, and around into the long narrow bay east of Green mountain. With Lake Nepigon I have had no personal experience. Hallock refers to it in these general terms : — "From the falls the river widens gradually, enclosing within its area dozens of small islands variegated with evergreens, birch, poplar, larch, tamarack, etc., and then expands into a vast inland sea, whose shores gradually recede beyond the limit of vision. In the far distant horizon, sky and water meet, and the waves roll up on shore with a volume and dash as turbulent in st^irms as tliose of Erie or 8u|)erior. Its bays are numerous and vast. Some of them are very deep, and extend Inland for twenty miles, teeming with trout, lake-trout, pike and pickerel. Into it flow large rivers, that have their sources in the heights RIVER. i Canoe, leads up to a ;linte, nearly at a right connects it with Lake the prettiest of these srosses into Lake Han- Ic into a long arm of Adventurers can pass igh falls, on their way :e Emma upwards by ill islands apd rapids, may be tried. Along- Lake Nepigon is Camp whicli one gets a view point where the river reference to the very ;se pages. a falls is usually filled -trout, weighing from ith live bait or strong t him cruise about the mg narrow bay east of have had no personal general terms : — lally, enclosing within ated with evergreens, I then expands into a ecede beyond the limit y and water meet, and and dash as turbulent Its bays are numerous and extend Inland for )ut, pike and pickerel, sources in the heights 51. •''•WT' CAXr CBBISHTOK- M xspreoy trovt. of land which constitute the watershed that divides the waters of the St. Lawrence chain from those of Hudson's bay and the Arctic zone." Every one takes the bacli tracli from this region with a linger- ing desire to stay longer. The run down Is made without breaking bulk ccept for one night's temporary shelter. Few can withstand the temptation to make It two, or perhaps three. But too swiftly, at last, our canoe races under the iron girders of the railway bridge, and % minute later we turn the comer of the last rapid and tamely land on the sandy beach In front of the Hudson's Bay pout at Jed Rock, where our portly friend, Mr. Flanagan, a warm-htsAmd Irishman and an old and trusted agent of the company, akvaits our safe return A WORD AT THE CLOSE. My enthusiastic friend and author-companion of former years, the Hon. R. B. Roosevelt, who writes as well as he fishes, tellf glowing tales of "Superior Fishing" hereabouts in bygone days. W'lt'ng in 1866, he says :— "After It ving fished from Labrador to the Mississippi, and killed trouu in mMiy states where trout are to be killed, I am sat- isfied that the fishing of Lake Superior surpasses that of any other region on our continent, and is, as a natural consequence, the best In the world. . . . The fish of Lake Superior excel those of the other Inland waters, either in flavor or game quall- itles, and sometimes, as with trout, in both. ... Of the rivers, the most famous is the Nep!gon, where barrels of trout, averag- ing four pounds, have been taken in one day. . . . They were collected in pools and were so numerous as to ruin the sport." Later on, Charles Hallock confirmed It all and showed that. In 1873, the fascination of sizes and numbers attracted many visi- tors. "At the first rapids, and within sight of the steamboat landing (at the Hudson's Bay post, Red RoCk), he remarks, " on^ may tarry aad fish to repletion of desire and basket, with- 1 that divides the waterit r HudMou'g bay and the iIh region with a linger- iown is made without niporary Hhelter. Few ^wo, or perliaps three. I under the iron girders ' we turn the comer of andy lieach in front of here our portly friend, and an old and trusted tnni OSE. mnion of former years. > well a» lie fishes, teUf hereabouts in bygone to the Mississippi, and e to be killed, I am sat- surpasses that of any a natural consequence, f Lake Superior excel in flavor or game quall- th. ... Of the rivers, nrrels of trout, averag- e day. . . . They were is to ruin the sport." all and showed that, in rs attracted many visi- sight of tlie steamboat d KoCk), he remarks, esire and basket, with- rrsn stories. 88 out going further. Passengers, while waiting for the departure of the steamer, have caught within an hour or so from off the dock, trout ranging from one and one-half to five pounds each. Of one hundred and fifty fish which we have caught, the average, by actual test, was a little above two and one-half pounds. The score runs thus, on exceptional occasions : Five fish, eighteen and three-quarters pounds; five fish, twenty pounds; five fish, twenty-three pounds ; six fish, twenty-two and one half pounds. And this is about as they run in the river. There are some THE BAILWAT BRIDOB ACROSS THE NKPIGON. small ft3h, but they are very scarce. Up in the lake they have been caught weighing aa heavy as twelve pounds. In short, one may hook and land on stout gear as many trout as he has flies on his line. I have known four to be landed at once, weighing, *u the aggregate, nearly fourteen pounds. Sketchy references to notable places on the railway line north of Lake Superior, in Lady Macdonald's felicitous descrip- tion in Murray's Magazine, for February, 1887, of a trip "By Bailroad and by Covxatcher" give the Neplgon river a M ITEPIOOir TROUT. pleasing picture; and the accomplished authoress adds: "The only fault of the trout-flshlng In the Nepigon, I am told, Is that the fish ate too numerous, — as if any one could catch too many four-pound trout 1 " But explosives and manifold devices of abusive practice have left their mark on these once faithful resorts. Nowadays one must push upwards towards the narrower and more Inaccessi- ble portions of the river, where trout, though fewer than formerly, are less scattered. Would that so clever a pen as her ladyship's could Impress upon Sir Ks-ta-mo-nl-mon, as Great Head Chief over sleepy sachems In the national wigwam, tlie urgent Importance of waking up somebody to protect these pis- cine " wards of the nation ! " And when Lady MacdonaM dor» graciously come to their rescue, the mellow voices of gratified and jovial anglers, both wWte and red, will chant her praises at future camp-flres on Neplgon's forest shores, " as long as grass grows and water runs." I HINTS FOR OUTFTT. Practiced campaigners know all about the proper outfit for such a jaunt as I have been describing ; others may he glad to be reminded of what are necessities ; what may be considered luxuries ; where best to get them; how to arrange for transpor- tation, etc. Bear In mind that It is better to groan under luxury than to growl with discomfort. Paste this inside your fishing-hat, and determine beforehand to feed well, fish moderately and Sleep comfortably. Then can you enjoy yourself whatever happens, and whether or not the fish and the files bite as you may reason- ably expect. The kit for such an expedition ought to Include tents and a regular canteen for cookery, with eating and drinking utensils, an Inside pall for water and an outside one for boiling, besides a wire gridiron and baking-pan, or a Dutch oveh, axes, hatchets, knives, tin candlesticks and candles, an extra kettle, tea-pot, coffee-pot, a dlsh-washlng pan, coarse towels and yellow soap. 9- mthoress adds : " The gon, I am told, is that 5 could catch too many '. abusive practice have isorts. Nowadays one er and more inaccessi- b, though fewer than so clever a pen as her i-mo-ni-mon, as Great national wigwam, tlic y to protect these pls- 1 Lady MacdonaM does How voices of gratified 111 chant her praises at >res, " as long as grass r. t the proper outfit for others may he glad to hat may be considered ■} arrange for transpor- n under luxury than to le your fishing-hat, and I moderately and sleep >elf whatever happens, >ite as you may reason- to include tents and a ; and drinking utensils, le for boiling, besides a h oveli, axes, hatchets, 1 extra Icettle, tea-pot, (vels and yellow soap. A rsir woRViS of advick. 8ft A folding camp bedstead or a canvas stretcher, and folding chairs and tables are desirable, unless you prefer to make your bed on hemlock bousfhs. The bedding should be ample and warm, and well stowed in dunnage-sacks made of oiled duck and secured by hani-straps. Your clothing must be wooUen and durable and carried In a soft leathern valise ; overalls and waterproofs should be Included; strongly taced ankle-shoes and water-tight boots thickly soled, slightly legged above the knee form the best footwear. A tarlton veil for the face, and gauntlets to protect the wrists against Insects are indispensable. A mixture of castor-oil and tar, or an unguent compounded of camphor-gum and vaseline, is needed to smear the face, neck and ears, since It not only protects those parts but acts as an antidote to the poisonous secretion In all fly-bites which irritates the skin and fevers the blood. In addition to toilet articles, take pins, needles, thread, buttons, tape, wax, hooks and eyes, and scissors. In your medicine chest yon wiU naturally pack such curatives as your own special aliments suggest, but be sure to Inclurtr spirits of camphor, efifervesclng magnesia, aconite, arnica, gin- ger escence, court plaster, — WeU, if you really need a little whiskey for your stomach's sake and your often infirmities, take a few flat flasks of old rye. Treasure It. Don't " swlU" the Indians and half-breeds for the cowardly reason that because some generous or bibulous fool has heretofore done so, you fear to be reckoned as mean. If at any time they are wet or tired and need stimulants give them plenty of extra strong tea, and If for true cause they are chilly, dose them with hot ginger tea well sweetened. A few drops of spirits of camphor on a lump of sugar, or In cold water. Is the proper physic for relaxation. If you are well furnished with liquors, and Inclined to "treat" the crowd, you'll very soon discover more stomach- aches and indigestions and shivering fits among your party than you can carry medicine of that sort to cure. Men with 86 NEPIOON TROVT. limbs as supple as withes will manifest a variety of stiff joints that apparently cannot be straightened out ))y any external appli- cation. Fellows with a patent sheet-iron apparatus, fitted for di- gesting a horse-shoe, will suddenly weaken on a can of tomatoes, or aii underdone ham, and want some fire-water to flnisli cool^ing it internally. The cook will always want another "spoonful" in a half-pint cup to clarify the coffee or to flavor the stew. If you are luiown to have a supply and fail or refuse to circulate it, look out for sulks or spills. Once begin and you must continue with ever increasing generosity, or soon find out your initial mistake, no matter how excusable you may have thought of it. The extra exertions and agreeable moods due to intoxicants dispensed to aborigines cannot counterbalance the sullen reaction that easily develops into passive or active incivil- ity. Better limit your quantity strictly to personal and necessary use, and your temperance will be read and respected by all men. Having got together all of these necessaries, lay in your provisons according to time and number, allowing about double your own need for feeding attendants. The chief essentials to reinforce the contents of cases in your canteen are,— tea, ground or condensed coffee, flour, fat pork, smoked and spiced bacon, corned beef, ham, lard, salt butter, corn-meal, oaten- meal, biscuits, pea-flour, corn-starcli, rice, potatoes, onions, pickles, salt, pepper (white and red), baking-powder or soda, condensed milk, canned preserves and vegetables, canned meats, tongues, lemons, lime-juice, vinegar, maple sugar or syrup, and any thing else you may fan^y. With these trifles you can get along pretty well, eked out as they should be by flsh, at least twice a day. Pipes and tobacco you will not forget, of course, if you are a smoker. For a trip to the north shore of Lake Superior, or the Nepi- gon, your flshing tackle should Include single and double-handed trout rods, trolling rod and lines, reels, creels, flies, bait-hooks, artificial minnows, bait box for grasshoppers, spring balance, landing net and small gaff. The standard patterns for flies on the Nepigon are, ' professor,' ' grizzly king,' ' queen,' ' Mou- tret ver bro win HiiMiiMii NMiiiiiw* ■iety of stiff joints any external appli- ratu8, fitted for di- acan of tomatoes, it to finish cooking lother "spoonful" I flavor the stew. fail or refuse to ice begin and you y, or soon find out ible you may have jable moods due to ;ounterbalance the re. or active Inclvil- lonal and necessary jpected by all men. irles, lay in your iwing about double chief essentials to :anteen are, — tea, smoked and spiced corn-meal, oaten- potatoes, onions, ig-powder or soda, )les, canned meats, ugar or syrup, and trifles you can get )e by flsh, at least forget, of course, erlor, or the Nepi- and double-handed s, flies, bait-hooks, '8, spring balance, atterns for flies ou ;,' ' queen,' ' Mou- 1 ADIEU! 37 treal,' slioemaker,' ' fairy ,^ ' Seth Green,' ' coachman, sil- ver doctor,' ' green drake,' ' gray drake,' yellow, and black brown and grizzled 'hackles.' and small, black-bodied and light winged ' gnat flics ' for whiteflsh. THE END. GENERAL OFFICERS CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. Head Offices: Montreal- Canada. siBO«o.8iipiir.».B»rt....FtetM«it...... ;. ■.•.;;::;''''"S~'• w.c.vANUoBNK Vloe-Pr«l ,q Market 8t SAN FRANCISCO.. CAI.. 4 Vflt. in. Otero. a-Kwi SEATTLE ...Wabh. TBB. .E. W. MuOlnnM Adsm«m,B«niiCo., OHAI CmnA. .Ml SYDNEY ....A«8TBAUA..A1^. i,-„-r~a-3»j:i-— i TACOMA....WABH. ma..RE.HlIarrw%t,«n!l Alex. Wooda, Agent for Au E. E. ElllTriaght.Bnd?!! TORONTO OUT. .V.JLJMM' Anni ita (br China . awur.DU ,^,„„„,„_ m,Du*rle VKSftW-A. .B-C-B^V ir*J«ilM VANCOUVER . . Dlitrict Paaaenger A.. let Fit and naa. Agent. . Agent... r Agent. UOKIngSt.W. B.C^^D.E. Brown, Sblrlet Fit andFi*a.Agent _ ^^ RC:.Bifel>Mi*l?#t«dP».j«.g«l|ent *ff^-:::::yA'?lS::av£.«iSllS5£^Uv:.:^^^ , .„thr.^iTu5frc2:3lii«S£5llf-i»"^^^ ■■wsmfsaMKMwm MmMiii i ii Li i w i nX ii iii i in ........,*^— i-w^- C RAILWAY. Montf«al. u '•"'**" 14 U Bcix* Toronto. Moolraal. "!".'.'.'.'.",'.'. WlnnlpM. ie Olvitiona. . . Montnal. , " n Wtomlpeg. Vancouver. kP. 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