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 CORWIN 1885. 
 
II W 4! M It I M |r K J 
 
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MA.p^t' 
 
 kOowak river 
 
 I^ROM A RECONNAISsAnCL MADE BY 
 Xieut\/C.Cantwe/l oftAe l/^ S^euenue St/r Corun/t 
 
 en/^ Comfnancfing 
 
 1885 
 
 ■^BTBrsr^scrrsJSjs^s^rWs'S'^^ 
 
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R E P O R T 
 
 itv Tim 
 
 CRUISK OF THE RKVKNUE MARINE STEAMER 
 
 C O E W I N 
 
 IN TIIH 
 
 T^^RCXIC OCK^N 
 
 » 
 
 THE YEAR 1885. 
 
 BT 
 
 CAPT. M. A. HEALY, U, S. R. M., 
 
 COMMANDKlt. 
 
 ?•? • ••• .«. • 
 
 ■ •'•••• J.. I ••• ! * • • . •• • • 
 
 •• .• * • • • 
 
 > . > . • ■ 
 
 ; ••• • • • ■ • • 
 
 • ••••• » ••„• 
 
 WASHINGTON: 
 
 GOVKRNMENT PUINTINO OFFICE. 
 
 1887. 
 
I. I] 'V v i:ii 
 
 TiiK A(TiN(; si:(1{i:taiiy or tiik tiiiiashky. 
 
 IS Hnsiih\si': to .1 uKsui,iTio\ iiv Tin: imrsi-:. 
 
 TKANMHITTINIt, 
 
 With mvinitiHiHiiiim iIikiiiih'iiIm, lln' n'i>nrf of Ca/it. M. .1. llinlif, ('. S. lifwniif Mminf, 
 iiltnii fhr i-niint' i)f thi' lii'i'viiiir Mariiii' nfi'diiivr Cnririii in Ihi' Arrliv Oft'ini, in tht' iji'dr 
 
 lHs;». 
 
 MAHril iH), INNH,— |{i>r<>rnHl Uittio ('-iiiiiiiiit(i<« mi Niiviil AlfiiirM uml ciiilcri'il In In> iirintnl. 
 
 TuKAsnts Dki'autmknt, Munh ;".t, IH.sd. 
 
 Mir : in r<iHp(iiiH<«t(ithi< roHnliitioii of tho IIoiihimiI' Kf|ircH*'iitiilivi-Hiir tli<> Istli itiNttiiit, I liuvt* 
 till' li(»ii<ir t«) traimiiiit licirwitli v <<i|)y <>f tli" rt'|M»rt of (;ii|»t. M. A. Hi-uly, U. H. U»'V«iiiui 
 .MariiH', U|m)I1 tin- <'niiM(' nf tlif Kt-vi'iiiK- Mariiii'stnuniT ro>vr//( in I1m> Antic Oci'iiii. iimdn in 
 llioyar IMHr), and its acciinipanyin^; (luciinit-ntH ami iliiiHti'aliniiM. 
 
 Tilt' foilowitiK iH a list of the in(;l()Nnr<>N wliicli ciinHtitnti- tin' r'i'|icii'l and 'ts accunipaiii' 
 Mi'nts: 
 
 (I) OontTal report ri)f operations of vessel I'nrthe pi'otection of Ijie seal lisliei'ies and Hec. 
 )tter liiintinK-Ki'oiinds. 
 
 (•i) Ui'poit of Lieut. .1. (I. (!antwell, of ex -'oration of Die Kowak Kiver, with pliotoKrajiliH 
 uid Itook of sketches. 
 
 (;<) Xoteson l)inlsof Kowak Kiver and otherjiortionsof Alaska, and notes on fishes of Alaska, 
 liy Charles II. 'I'ownseiid. assistant, U. S. Kish Cominission. 
 
 (I) liejiort of Assistant Kni^ineer S. M. Mchenef^an, of expioi-alion of the No.'ltak Hivor. 
 
 Nutnher of plioto;r|'aplls, .'ili. 
 
 F have I'cspectfnlly to reipu'st that in prinlinj^ the aliove-nientioned report pi-ovision ho 
 made hy Con^^ressto furnish to the Treasury l^epartini'nl Ihr'ee Ihonsand (.'l.iinu) eopies. 
 Very respeclfnlly, 
 
 ('. S. FAlHCllil.l), 
 
 .Iflintj Srcrrfdii/. 
 lion. .1. (!. ('AKMHhR, 
 
 Upriikfr Ifoiixf iif l\'('i)n:sfnl(ilirrK, l\'ii:..'. iiujloii, />. ('. 
 
 8 
 
I). K< <<i. n ■ 
 
 U.S. KEV ICNUK I LTTlik ' I UK\MN." Ulil'ARTUKE FOR ALASKA. 
 
 OL'.\ ALASKA. 
 
R E 3^ O K T 
 
 OK TIIK 
 
 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 U. S. Rkvknuk Marine Steamer Corwin, 
 
 Sir : I hiivc the hoiiDV to suhmif llic rullnwint;- r<']M>rt of tlu' Aliiskiiii ami Arctic cruise of 
 the U. S. ReveniiG Murine steamer Corifin. midcr my commiiiid. diiriiiK tlic summer of 1885. 
 
 The Coiii-in left Sfiu Frauciscr), ("a!., on tlicaftcniooii of April •.'!i, ami arrived at ( )unalaska 
 May ii, liaviu^ madt- I lie jiassaf^c in leu aud on('-(|iiartci' days. 
 
 Ti»e voyage, aside from tii(> rough weatlier usually cxiicrieiiced on a trij) of tliis kind, was 
 devoid of any incident worthy of particular mention until llie last day. About -J o'clock in 
 themorningof the !itli of May, Francis Mc('anlt\v. the seaman on lookout, was suddenly tlirown 
 ovei'lioard by the motion of tlie vessel, which was I'olljnt,' ilee]i in the trough of the sea. The 
 engine was immediately stopped and revei'sed. a life-huoy thrown overboard, and two boats 
 promptly lowered to re.scue him. but all without .avail. We renniined in the vicinitj- of the 
 accident, our boats ;)ulling to and fi'o. for four and one-half lioni's, ;ind then steamed aliead for 
 Ounalaska, where we arrived at '.< o'clock that evening. Tlie deceased bore a most excellent 
 reputation, and his tragic and sad death cast a gloom over our ship for many tlays. 
 
 A few days after our arrival at ( )unalaska. tlie bark .1 tidiific was sighted outside, endeavor- 
 ing toenter the liartxir. There being no pilots in tlie \icinity. and knowing that thecai)tain was 
 unac()Uiiinted with those waters. I went to his assistani ■and piloted the .-l//f///y/c into ( )U7ialaska 
 Harbor. She had been injured by the ice and was then leaking badly, and was obliged to enter 
 l)ort to make repairs. While in jxtrt we lent every aid to expedite the work oH repairing, and 
 memlx'rs of our crew assisted in blacksniithing and cai|ientry. 
 
 At Ounalaska we took on board a supply of coal and water, ami left on the morning of the 
 14th of May. intending to visit the island of Attou. the westernmost of the Aleutian grouj), 
 and on our n'turn to stop at the settlements between Attou and ()unahiska. 
 
 When we were olf Cape (!heerfnl it was found that the engine worked very badly. The 
 vessel was put under sail and the engines stop])ed and uncoui)led, and a preliminary examina- 
 tion disclosed a crack in the crank-pin, compelling us to work hack to Ounalaska under sail. 
 After arriving in port, a careful and thoi-ougti examination was made by the chief engineer, 
 who reported tlie crank-pin broken in a daiigei'ons manner, and that it would be neces.sary 
 to hav(! it rejjaired before continuing our cruise north. After much reflection and with a 
 great deal of regret, we started hack to San Francisco to make repairs, leaving Lieutenant 
 Cantwell and two seamen at Ounalaska with instructions to take passage on the steamer <SY. 
 I'iiiil to Otter Island, there to jjrotect seal life during the ahsence of the vessel. 
 
 We arrived in San Francisco May 28, and on the following day, acting under telegraphic 
 instructions from the Department, I awarded the contract for repairs to the RLsdon Iron Works 
 of San Francisco, the work to be comi)leted in not more than eight days. The company's em- 
 ployes lahored niglit and day. and tinished the work in one week, in such a workmanlike 
 manner that it lias given entire satisfaction since. 
 
6 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 The repairs having been conipkfted on tlie 4th of June, we left San Francisco at 10 o'clock 
 that evening, and again started for the Alt^utian Islands. 
 
 Wo arrived at Oiuiaiuska June 17. coalt'd and watered ship, and received on board one 
 hidarka (skin boat) for tlie use of the expedition uj) the Noiltak River. 
 
 The volcano of Bogoslolf was visittsd June 11). The general a[ipearance of the volcano is 
 not changed from that of a year ago. but its activity is somewhat lessened. The height of the 
 lower peak of New Bogoslotf was ascertained to be four liundred and tifty feet abo^'o the sea- 
 level, and that of the higher peak estimated about soventy-tive feet more, both peaks being 
 inaccessible on account of the steam and the fumes of sulphurous oxide in vrhich they are en- 
 veloped. 
 
 Cruising northward from Bogosloff, we touched at St. George's and St. Paul's Islands on 
 June 20, and at the latter place Second Lieutenant Benham was detailed for duty on Otter Island 
 to relieve Third Lieutenant Cant well. - 
 
 Mr. C. H. Townseud. naturalist of the Smithsonian Institution, who was at St. T "^"s 
 Island, requested that lie be taken on board the Vonciii for passage to the Arctic, 'le 
 
 him to make ichthyological and ornitliological collecticju.-t in tiiat country. As thai pai't of 
 the country was an entirely new field for a naturalist, and believing that Mr. Townsend's 
 labors would be of great value to science and of much interest to the public, I received him on 
 board to accompany Lieutenant Cautwell on liis expedition up the Kowak River. 
 
 Wo consulted with the liovernment agents on the islands and learned that no marauding 
 vessels had been seen in tlie vicinity uj) to that tinu*. They also stated that the seals had com- 
 menced to haul up on the islands, witliout any i)ercepti1.1e (liniinuti(m from previous years. 
 
 We remained in the vicinity of the seal islands for several days; then continued our 
 cruise to the northward iind eastward, toudiing at St. Michael's and Oolwin Bay. 
 
 At St. Midiael's we took on board an Indian interpreter to accompany Lieutenant Cant- 
 well's expedition. Nothing had transpired at St. Michael's since last year which would require 
 our interference. The health of the white people was excellent, and the Indians were peace- 
 able and friendly. 
 
 At Golwin Bay First Lieutenant Hall and Siirgeon Yemans were dispatciied to visit the 
 mining camp tt) ascertain the condition of the white men and Indians tliere, and to render 
 medical aid if such was lequired. Lieutenant Hall found but one man at the mine, Mr. 
 Mackey, who had remained there all winter in order to uuike good tlie claim of the Golwin 
 Bay Mining Company. Mr. Mackey visited the vessel, and reported that the natives were 
 peaceful and that he had experienced no ditliculty in getting along with them. He also 
 reported the mines as very rich, with an inexhaustible (|uantity of ore. The specimens which 
 have been assayed i)rove very rich, but the result cannot as yet be foreseen. The company 
 have b ''en to considerable expense in working the mine, and have lost two vessels thus far. 
 A more thoroughly organized company, consisting of fifteen miners and superintendent, with 
 suitable supplies and ecjuipments for one year, arrived at the mine the day of our departure, 
 and from them better results are anticijiated. The great distan(^e of the mine fi'om civilization 
 is a very decided disadvantage. The mine is situated on the Fish River, about thirty miles 
 from the mouth, and the shallowness of the water makes it a nuitter of no little difficulty to 
 convey the ore from the mine to the ves.sel, which takes it to San Francisco for smelting. 
 
 Thei'e are tliose who i)rophesy that the Indians will eventually molest the minors in their 
 operati(ms. If any such ditficulty does occur, it will, I tliiuk. be brought about by some overt 
 act on their part, as the Indians are generally well-behaved and iieaceable, and not unaccus- 
 tomed to mingling with white men. If there is any trouble it will be caused by the introduc- 
 tion of liquor among the Indians or the total disregard of their persoi.al family rights, which, 
 in all Indian territory, the whites .seem to ignore. 
 
 After leaving Golwin Bay we touched at Sledge Island and King's Island, and on June 27 
 anchored off our coaling station at Point Spencer. 
 
 At Point Spencer we found tiu^ bark Wdmlerev and the schooner Page, both whaling 
 vessels, and also the schooner J(«me.s A. Oarfield, which brings supplies to a portion of the 
 Arctic whaling fleet. 
 
M. Kx. m, .,() I 
 
 GROUr OF NATIVES AND ri'-CorNTKV INDIANS, ST. MHIIAliLS. 
 
If E«. 153,49 I 
 
 f 
 
 1 
 
 MYIJNIK (INTERPRETER). 
 
r 
 
 / 
 
I(. Kl. n\. 4g I 
 
 HOUUSLOV ISl.WK, NhW KNU, IIKAKIN'ti N. W. HV N. 
 
 
 '^,.*.._ 
 
 BOGOSLOVV ISLAND, OLD KNU, BEARING K. HV S. 
 
II l'.< 
 
 
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 HOGOSl.UV ISLANU, SAM. K(>( K. IIK.\l<l.\li S. K 
 
 H(J(;OSI.{)\' ISI.A.M), NKW I.NI), HI.AKI.S(; .\. W ItV N. 
 
0RUI8K OF THE 8TEAMEU CDRWIN. 7 
 
 Till' wliiilinj? vi-fiw'lM l»r»iuK'i< •l'>wu ll»i« ih'Wh i«f ihti Idhm of tlic ImrkH ^/<i :«■//« iiikI .\Vi/»«»/<fo«, 
 iKtth III' which wtTi' (TiiMhi'il in (lii> ire I'lirly in Ihf K\>n\\n, tlif hklt.T hMin^ twfiity-two imm. 
 
 Wi« wiit<'i'i«l iiii<l cdulo)! Nliip lit I'diiit H|H<iii'i<i' 1(11(1 riMiili'i'fil nicilicitl iMMiHiKiico t4i thoM of 
 t)i)> wintliii;; lli'i't thut ri>i|uiri>ii it. 
 
 Thn Mti'Hiii whiilciH Unlifiiii iiihI Orvii, nml tli»» hiirkH Hfh'n Mm; Jitrnb A. Hdii'IuhiI, ami 
 h'ltvtiviinis arrived at I'oiiit Hiiciicnr during <'iir Ntay, iiml wi>n< h()iiril«<l iiml i>xiiriiiii<<<| hy iih. 
 
 .Iiiiii' :iw wit li*ft Point S|M<iii'iM', (ii\ichi<il lit till' l)i4iiMi'<l(> IshtiiiU, luid on •Inly I unchortMl 
 in Ki>t/,itlMi)t Hnnml, ntT lluthiun Inlt'l. 
 
 AllliiMi^h Ihi* ico wiiH I'l'iiurtnl hy tin- vvhiili'i's I'ltriy in tin* HciiHun iih ))i>in)< )i)>nvy tin<l fiii'lhor 
 Hinitli tliirt yi'iir <ni the Kihoriiiu cdiut thiin Iuik hiHin known l'<<r inimy yi'iii-H. thf I'ltnvin, crniH- 
 \nn iniir)i later iilonf^ thx AliiNkim Mlinro, diil not i<n(*oiiiit»>i' it until tht> ivftKinooii of July 1, in 
 liitifndo (i(i " 47' N., or iihont (iftccn inih'M north of tlu' Arctic Circle; iitnl tlicn. iiltln)nKl> onr 
 progrtiHs waH somewhat n'tar<h«|, it did not prevent onr entrance into Kotzelnn" Honnd. 
 
 Thoday aftt*r our arrival in Kot/elnnt Sound liieutenautC'autwidl and Mr. IViwiiNeud, with 
 the Nteain-iaiinch and two men, left the vcMMel with MnpplieH and ontlit to continue the explora- 
 tion of the Kowak Kiver, which waH iie^nn liy iiienlenant Card well la.st year. 
 
 At SheHhaiik. where thi< natives oC thecoaxtand interior rende/.vous lor the purpose of 
 trading and tisliiuK. no Indians had at that time arrived, and consideraMe ditlicully was experi- 
 enced in ohtainiuK a Muilalile l)oat I'or the nsiof thi> Kowak Kiver' expeilitiori. Orn- (d' a very 
 iid'erior nature was limiily proc\ir 'd an<l paid I'or in trade ^oods. 
 
 On the .same day Assistard KiiKiueer McKenejraii and seaman Nelson left the vessel witli 
 the skin boat r'oceived at Oirnalaska to nrake an explor'ation of tlie Noiltak, a river which up 
 to that time had never heen ascended hy a white man. 
 
 After landing these expeditions and their supplies, and KeeiiiK tlieiu properly Hturtedv we 
 cruised aloiiK the coast to Point Hope, thetute an far as latitridrt (!!»' )Vi' N., loriKitinle 174" 1ft' W. 
 Thei'e We met the ice, packed solid iw far as the eye could i-e.ich fr'oin masthead, arrd nrakirr^ 
 pi'ii^r'ess farther nor-th im possible. < )it our' r'eturn we fell in w ilh a lot <if wali'us and two polar 
 liear's. to which the sur'^^eori air<l I jj^ave chase, lint did not succeed in ca)iturin^ any. 
 
 The harks Aliniiii Hnrki-r and S/iinifiinif wer'e spoken, arrd also hoarded and examirnul, 
 Meilical aid was rendered to an ollii'er of \\w Stuiii'xml who was somewhat demented, nrid who, 
 a lew days later', conrmitted siricide. Iir this connection I may state that I havt< noticed that 
 in.sanity is inor'e fr'e(|nent pr'oportionally arnorrK the for'i mast Irarrds id' whaling-vessels than 
 amoiiK any other class of seafarinn men. 
 
 AnioirK 'he r'escued cr^ws hr'oUKlit dmvii at ilitYei-enl times l>y the Citrwiii I have fr-eipiently 
 observed slight symptoms of insairity, and this has also been noticed by the sirr'^eon of this ves- 
 sel when visiting vessels of the whaling fleet pi'ofessionally. Whether these men iwesoatHicted 
 when they ship, oi' whether' their' aflliclion is snpei'indnced by the str'iiiri to which they ai'o 
 subjected while in the vicirrity of the ice. I am unable to say, birt 1 think the latter the morn 
 jM'obable. 
 
 Fr'orir the time of leaviuKtlu' ice-piu'k until our return to Point S((encer,.ltdyH, the weather 
 was extr'ernely foKK.V. makiir^j our' pi'oj^e.ss very slow and r-eijuiriiiK K''''"^ precaution. On 
 arriving at Point Spencer' we foirnd sever'al additional ves.sels of the wlialin^^ lleel i'ende/,\oiised 
 for' the pirrpo.se of shippin>< their oil and bone and of r'eceiviri^j sujipl'res from the t>eiid(<r that 
 went thei'e to meet theirr. Some of the wlialer-s had also j.{one into Point Hjieiicer for the jair- 
 poseof makiuji r'cpair's, haviri)r be(>ir damap'd by corning in contact witli ice. 'Die steam wlialer 
 Hdld'nit had injured her stern and bows, the steamer ThrnHhcr had her propeller berrt, 'ind the 
 bark Arnolda was jiartially ntove forward. The vessels were damaged hy ice on the »Siheriari 
 coast early in the season, arrd all succeeded in making tem|»oi'ai'y r'epaii's wliile'at Point Sjiencei-. 
 
 The scdi.iorier ./uiiics .1. (Utr.ticid left fiU' San Fr'anci.sco on the rrror'iung of July ! 1, taking 
 the mail and a part of the natch of the Pacific steam whaliiiK fleet. 
 
 After coaling and v\ itering at Point Spencer, we left tlier'e at 4 o'clock in the morning of 
 July \\\, and soon after met the whaling bark Ihiini. trying to make a harbor. From the cap- 
 tain of the Daivn 1 lear-ned that his vessel was very badly ir\jured by the ice, and upon his 
 request for asaistauce we took the Dawn iu tow for Qrautley Harbor. 
 
8 fllUlHIC OK TlIK STKAMKH ("ORWIN. 
 
 Tho t'litnvnro to (Iranlli'y Hurl)!)!- liciiif^ very nari-ow. considnivililei difficulty waH foiiiKl in 
 tiutoriiijj;, MuTc lioiiiji two hIiouI iiliiccs on citlicr sidooT tlui ohiimud. with not iiioro (liaii tw«) 
 and 11 ([iiartor fathoms of wator. Tiit! hark K'"*>"'>'lk'<J '^t lO.HO in tii« morning, and it was not 
 until 4 o'clock in the nTtcrnoon, when the tide rose, that we succeeded in huulinK iier afloat. In 
 tiio mean time two of onr iioats. in charge of otlicers. had sonnded ont the i't>mainder of thet'han- 
 nel and located temporary buoys, thus enabling us to tow tho bark into tho harbor without 
 furtlier detention. 
 
 Wo r(>niaini'd in (Irantley Harhoi' the next thirty-six hcnirs, during which timo the oftlcers 
 and crew sounded out the entire cliaiinel and placed ranj^e beacons alon^ the shove to nuvrk 
 the enti-ance to the hari)or. Althoui,'!) tin* iiai'i)or is entirely land-locked, th(i shallowness of 
 the water at its «'nti'UMcc makes it unsei'viceabht for vess<'ls of any (Irau^ht. 
 
 We left (irantley Unrlvur July lA, having lirst sent ont> of our crew on board the Dnini to 
 a,ssist in neces.^ary blacksmith work, and leaving with him a tent and suitplies, with instructions 
 to await our return on shore in case of the depart\ire of the thiini before our arrival. 
 
 We t(nn-hc' ' Kinfi:'s Island, ("ape Priiu-e )f Wales, jind Kast ('uix'. tlu'U crniseil to ilie 
 southward alonjf tne Siberian coast and entered 8t. Lawrence and Mechiji;me Bays. Thence 
 we steamed through Honiavine Sti-aits to and aroimd St. Lawrence Island aiid back to Point 
 Spencer, where we arrived on the 'H'dh of July. 
 
 During (nir absence we maile sevt>ral explorations, the result of which will. I think, be of 
 muc\ value to Arctic navigation. 
 
 As the whaling fleet o]>eri\tes along the Siberian coast iliiving a consideraV)le part of the 
 whaling season, it is necessary that they should have some near harlior to enter for rejiairs 
 when injured by the ice. No such harbor was positivi^ly known to them, but they had heard 
 that there was a harbor oil' the village! of Whalen, on the noi'fli side of East Cape. 
 
 When at F.ast Cape 1 sent an oflicer to niake areconnaissanc(! of the supiuised harbor, with 
 a view to estal)lish a I'efuge for the lli>(>t. At tln^ entrance* of what proved to b(* a lagoon about 
 eight nul(!s long but ten fec^t of water wa.i found, and that was th(< greatest depth obtained 
 inside, while that part of the lagoon exteniling east from the entrance was almost entirely tilled 
 with shoals. The shallowness of thi- water at the entrance of this lagoon precludes its use as 
 a harl)or. 
 
 At Mechigme Bay, however, about eighty miles down the coast, an entirely different and 
 most satisfacfiM'y n'sult was obtained. .At the entrance to (he bay fourteen falhonisof water 
 was found, and on (lie inside live fathoms can be carried for several miles. This harbor, !)eing 
 entirely landlocked, affords protection from the wind from any direction, and is, in my opinion, 
 the best harbor niu'th of the Altnitiaii Islands. 
 
 When steaming through Seniavine Straits a reef was di.sc(>v«n'ed between Nouneangane 
 and Ittygrave Islands, extending in a noi'theasf and southwest diiection. a very dangerous ob- 
 struction to navigation, not being laid down on the chart. An oflicer of the vessel in .sounding 
 found the reef very rocky with but two and a half fathoms of water over it. 
 
 The result of oni- labors in Mechigtne Bay and Seniavine Straits, with the souiulings ob- 
 tained by us along the Siberian and Alaskan coasts, will be gi vi'U to the Hydrograidiic Otlice in 
 this city. 
 
 On the 27'th of ,Tuly the D((ifii. having compl(>ted rejiairs, l(>ft Point Sjieucer to return to 
 the whaling-gromiils. Thi'ee of her ciew hail desi>rt(Mi. iind the captain riMpu-sted the cutt(>r to 
 pick them up and I'eturn them to their ves.sel. Accordingly, the diiy after tlie departure of tlu< 
 yjrncH, the nu'n wer(> taken on board ami kept until we should again meet that vessel. The 
 nn?n claimef] that the Ihnni was unseiiworthy. and stated that on that acoount tliey had <le.serteil, 
 as they did not c<uisider it safe to remain in lier. They were tnrniMl to with our own crew, and 
 a (Government ration served to thei7i while they remained on board. 
 
 (^wing to a strong northerly gale we were comjielled to ivmain <nie week at Point Spencer 
 before we conlil coal and water ship. We left Point Siiencei- .August -i. touched at Ca])e 
 Prince of Wales and th(> Dionu'de Islands, and on the following day anchored off llotham Inlet. 
 Kotzebue Sound. Here we landed supplies for tlie use of the two expeditions oil tlieir return 
 from the Kowak and Noiitak Ri\ei-s. 
 
II. Ex. I5J, 47 
 
 Mois '£M*^'r'<' Co /^ : 
 
 VIEW OK LAKli .\.\U MOLINr.MNS, lil.AU OK GkANTLEV KIVEK. 
 
 
 ,iWi*!*»» 
 
 
 1 
 
 su-,^i*»' 
 
 ^*«^a 
 
 ^^t' 
 
 FAIRWAY KUC K, IIEIIKIN'J .STRAIT, N. UV K. 
 
II. I'.x 151. 49 1 
 
 UKVi.Nc. I'lsii A r (iKw ri.i'.\' iixkhok. 
 
 VIEW Ol' I AKli ANU MOl NlAlNS, UliAl) ill (.KAN I I.KV KUKK. 
 
CRUISE OF TFIE STEAMER CORWTN. 9 
 
 From Kotzel)UP Sound wn cruistid along the coast to the nortliward and touched at Point 
 Hoi"', watered ship at ()ai)e" Lewis, and anclioreil off (!aj)e Lishurne cnalinK station. This 
 Htation wo snijplied witli a small (juaiitity ol' medicines and a lew other necessary urtielee, then 
 resumed unr cruising to the northward along the coast. At ',i o'clock in the afternoon of 
 August !», when about lit'teen miles noi-tli of Icy Cape, we encountered heavy drift-ice, but suc- 
 ceeded in working our way through it, anil at 7.45 that evening came to anchor oil" Point 
 Marsli, amongst the whaling tlei^t of about thirty vessels. 
 
 The captain of the first vessel s])oken repcn'ted that some of the fleet were in the ice-pack 
 and could not get out. After cruising amongst the fleet I f'onnil that tlu^ re])ort was without 
 fonnilation. all of the vessels being out of danger. Some of them, however, were compelled 
 to shift anclnjr occasionally to avoid the heavy ice, which was then drifting to the northward 
 about one au<l one-half miles per hour. 
 
 The following day. August Id, was the 7uost eventful of the season, and will long bo remem- 
 bered by the whaling fleet and tile clew of tlie C'orifin as a day of calamities. The day com- 
 menced bright and cleai-, with a light to gentle breeze blowing from the east. About 1 1 o'clock 
 in the morning the weatlier was very .scjually, the wind hauling gradually to the southward 
 an<l increasing in force every moment. 
 
 At noon a boat belonging to the bark Abram Barker, having brought mail on board the 
 Cnrwin. started to return to the bark. She had proceeded but a short di.stance wjien she was 
 suddenly capsized by a heavy s(iiuill, and the occui)ants. consisting of the second mate and Ave 
 men, were left struggling in the water. The accident being observed on board this vessel, the 
 surf-boat was ])romptly lowered, and, in charge of Third Lieutenant Kennedy, went to the 
 rescue. The men weic all hauled in the boat and after nuich hard j)ulling against the wind and 
 sea were safely landetl on hoard the b.irk lli'U-ii Mar. that being the nearest vessel to the scene 
 of the accident, and on board of which the doctor was then othciallv visiting. 
 
 The wind cfintinued to increa.se, and by 'i o'clock in the afternoon had developed into a 
 sti'ong SSW. gale. The majority of the whaling fleet were now underway, working under 
 short sail. Some of them pai'teil and othei's slippeil their cables, not lieingabh^ to heave them 
 in on account of tlie very rough sea and strong tide. 
 
 At ;i o'clock the hark (Icinuic iiiid Sii.saii. which was at anchor, parted one of her cables and 
 began to drag. Sail was put on her and every effort made to get her outof danger, but before 
 she could be got luider way she d.-agged afVad of the bark Mabel, which was at anchor near 
 by, carrying away tlu^ jilibooni and all the hea<l gear of the George and Siisau. and breaking 
 the Mahel'-s mainyard. 
 
 The (Seonie (,ii(l Siin'Iii then wen," aslioi'c. striking very hai'd on the beach, and in less tlian 
 three hours had seven feet of water ii her hold. When sht> struck, some of her crew, in their 
 excitement, cleared away two boats, .iumixul into them, and headed for the shore. 
 
 A very heavy sui'f was I'unniug on the beach, which swamiwd both ])oats and drowned 
 three of their crew. The remaindt'r succeeded in landing on shore in an exhausted and semi- 
 conscious stat(>: ill fact, some of them were in an exceedingly critical condition for several 
 hours after landing. 
 
 At ;!.4.") we got under way and steamed down toward the George and Susan to see if we 
 could render any assistance to her or any other vessel of the fleet. C)bserving that the Mahel 
 was in what I considei'ed an extremely dangerous position, we entered the breakers and anchored 
 near her in four and a <|uarter fathoms of water with ninety fathoms of chain While in the 
 breakers the (^oririn shi])])ed a very heavy sea over her starboard quarter which swejjt 
 clear toi'ward to the forecastle*. Our surf-bf)at was made ready with a picked crew, and then, 
 steaming ahefid to windward of the M(d>el to a full scope of chain, the boat was lowered, with 
 Mr. Dougl;iss. the jiilot. in charge, to run a small line to the Mahel. Notwithstanding the 
 h(»avy sea ami the strong wind and tide, he succeeded in running the line in a most admirable 
 and seamanlike manner. A large hawser was bent to the running line, but before it could be 
 hauled on l)oard the Mabel she ]),irted her cable and drifted towards the shore. Her head 
 sails wer(> hoisted and every endeavor used to work her into (hx*]) watcu". Before she could be 
 got about she struck very hard un the bar and then went ashore broadside on, about one 
 H. Ex. 153 -i 
 
10 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 quarter of a mile nortli of tlio Gcoiyf (tiid Snn(tii. Tlic hwi ))roke over her from stem to stem, 
 and in less tlian tJiirty niinutcH lier musts Imtl «'"»"» **lii' bilged and tilled with water, and 
 became a total wn^k. 
 
 After she struck we shifted our position to a more safe and secure andiorage. At 8 o'clock 
 that eveninff, wlwii tlie K'^''' bud somewhat abated, a boat from this vtwsel, in charge of First 
 Lieutenant Hall, afcomi)anied l»y Dr. Vemans, visite<I the wrecked men on shore and botli of 
 the wrecke<l vessels. Onshore the surgeon rendered valuable medical aid to those men of the 
 (feorge and Siistius crew that were sutVering from the sevt^ro exposure which they had under- 
 gone. 
 
 The Mabel'ft crew abaiuloned the vessel after she was wrecked and took refuge in a tent 
 which they had erected on shore, or in some of the Indian huts. Their passage to the 
 shore was attended with great ilit!iculty, on account of the heavy surf, and they were obliged 
 to run a line from the vessel to the shore for the guidance of their boats. 
 
 On board the (ii-orgi' and ,Su.s<in the conditicms were more favorable, anil her crew, with 
 the exception of thostt that took to the boats in the excitement when the vessel (irst struck, 
 were enal)led to remain on board during tiie night. Although she was also bilged, her between- 
 decks and cabin were dry and (•omi)aratively comfortable. 
 
 At II o'clock tliiit night, at tlu> reijuest of the ca)>tains of tlu^ wrecked vessels, we got 
 nnder way anil steamed to the northward for the purpose of asking the steamer Belcidcre to 
 take the oil from the Mdhi'l. and the bark Ohio to take that of the (ieotye and Sn.san, or that 
 portion of theii' cargoes that could be saved. 
 
 The Ht'lridi'if in resi)onse steamed down to the vicinity of the Maheh but the captain of 
 the (ihio said it was then ini])ossibli' for him to goto the (Iconje and Susdti on account of the 
 head wind and tide, and that he might not be able to do so foi- a week. 
 
 At 2 o'clock the following morning we anchoreil alongside the Ohio, and at 4 o'clock, at 
 the reipiest of the ca|)tain, got under way with that vessel in tow, he l)eing desirous of j)ro- 
 ciiring, for the benefit of his owners, that portion of tht> cargo of the (h'(>r(je (iiid Snuan that 
 could be saved. 
 
 After towing the Ohio and iinchoring her near the (h'nr(i<> and Susan, we went about to 
 the northward toward Point Fi'anklin to assist those vessels that bad either parted or slipped 
 their cables during the gale and had thus become virt\nilly disabled. This a.Hsistance I deemed 
 necessary, knowing if the wind should come from the southward the vessels would either have 
 to go on the beach or entei" the ice-pack, which in either case would ju'ove their destruction. 
 <)wing to the ice and strong tides a vessel on the east coast is just as much disabled without 
 anchors as if she were witlumt a rudder. As we steanuul amongst the fleet the captains of those 
 vessels that were without anchoi's requested our a.ssistance in towing them back to their anchor- 
 age. They also stated that the bai'k Francis I'ahiicr was farthest to the northward, and con- 
 seipu'iitly in the greatest dangei-. They were then informed that we would first go to the 
 assistance of the Palmer, and on our return would take them in tow. 
 
 We found the /Vf/;«c/"bi'ought tootT Point Franklin, in close ])roxii.nty to the ice, fluke-chains, 
 blubber-hooks, and otlu>r heavy articles having '..cen imjirovised for use as anchors. Seeing the 
 dangerous jiosition of the vessel, and at the re(iuestof her captain for assistance, .she was taken 
 by us and towed to her formei' anchorage off Waiiiwi'ight Iidet, where she soon after succeeded 
 in securing her amdiors and cables, whiih she had ])arted during the gale. 
 
 We then steamed amongst the remainder of the fleet, but inir services were not further 
 required, as a fair wind had in the mean time sprung uj) which enabled the ve.ssels to retiirn 
 against the tide to their lost anchors. 
 
 The three deserters from the bark Dawn, before mentioned as liaving been taken on board 
 at Point Speneer, were returned to that vess(>l in chai'ge of an officer. 
 
 Allegations having been maile by the deserters against the captain of the Datvn concerning 
 his treatment of them, the officer was instnu-ted to inform the captain of tlie charges and to 
 warn him that if there was any truth in them lie would be held accountable by us, as it was a 
 part of our duty to secure pnjper treatment of crews from their superiors. 
 
 At the request of the commanders of the two wrecked vessels for transportation for them- 
 
H. V.X. 151, ^g I 
 
 r 
 
 NAl'lVUb Ul' KlNI.'b ISLANDS, 
 
 
 ei^^r 
 
 ^^*r=--v^5^n'^ii^S;?^^^^^^'5^ 
 
 
 
 MmZatJiLA 
 
 KING'S ISLAND, HKARING S. W. HV W. 
 
II li«. IJJ, « ' 
 
 N.\T1\'KS OK I'OINT ItAKROW. 
 
 liik: ^i£a#E 
 
 
 'COM SEAM MKlNOlMi OK l OAl. IN ( OKWINS HOAiS. 
 
CRUISE OK Til K STEAM KR COR WIN. 11 
 
 HolvKH, tlioir oflliwrH, ami crt^wH on iMtiinl IIih Corivin tu San FtunciHOo, evAry iTopnrution wiut 
 nimlt' til r(M'i'iv(« tln'iii itml tu |ini\ idc lor llmir cDnifort. Tlie lixktuM on IIih l)urtli-tle<k wunt 
 turn iluwu tinil berths i'rt-<ti'<l lor u purl ot tiiu utlitur^ of IUuhu vutuulu, Inh'IIiu buiug pliuutl 
 in till* caliin lor tint two niptiihiH. 
 
 Tlu' I'ollowinK 'lay, AnnuMl I'.', wt< i'»'ct<iv»'(| on lioani a ft'W proviHionH that liad ln'on naviwl 
 I'rotn llio (li'imic itml Sii.sitii, aJHo two \vliikli<-lioatM. wliicli ! iii><>iiii«l il atlvinal)!)* lo liavo, our 
 own Iniii ^ licin^ ina<lt'(inatti to provhltt lor all on hoard in iNiHtiof iliHaHtorto thu vchhoI. Tliitt 
 (ivi>iiin>< ami thi> ni>\l day tht* captains, olllt'itrs, and rrcwHttf tlu* wrnckcd vcHmdHcanuton hoard 
 tho CiirwiH I'or puHsant" to San l'"ranriHfo. 
 
 Ah tliK Dcpartnit'nl last year roruscd to ri'inihurMt< the ward room oIliccrH for providing tor 
 thoMtt otIii'i'rM ol° tlin Hitivlii'iul that hail ini'SMi>i| with thoin, soiniMdijcctionH wi>rn niaih< to ri'cciv- 
 in^ thx ollicnrM of tho two vi-sHnis i\\. th*<ir tahht. Thnro hoinx »** >'<>oni forward for thoin, and 
 the fort-cast Ic tx'inj; entirely imsiiilaliie for an olllc(-r, they were received into the cahin iin'MM 
 and fed at my pi-rsonal exiMtuso, tim crowdud tuiiditiou of tluicahin nuiusHitating the sotting of 
 a first and second tahle. 
 
 The crews of lioth vessels as they came (m hoard were tolle<l off in starlioard and port 
 watches with onr own crew and a (lovernment ration served to eacii nuin. dreat care was 
 taken that no distinction Hlxnihl he made eithur in work or food hetwoen thu wrtjcked men and 
 our own crew. 
 
 One man was taken on l)oard from the lii'indoi'r, he hein^ greatly in need of medical 
 attendance and inacM'iticul condition, lie was formerly of the crew of the hark S'li/tiilfon, 
 and at the tinn' of the wreck of that vessel all the toes of hoth feet were hadly fro/.t-n. He 
 was taken on hoard the /iV//«r/ccr, and his condition was nucIi that his toes luul to he ampn- 
 tut I'd. There l)eiu>{ no surgeon in the .Vrctic or within sevi*ra! hundred miles at that time, the 
 operation was performed liy Captain Ihiker, of tht> Ui'indci'r, heiiiK resorted to as an e.xtrenuj 
 measure and one actually neciissary to savo lifo. After tlm imm was takon on ))oard the f'or- 
 irin a further amputation was found necessary, and was suhs(«pn'utly performed in a most 
 skiiirui and professioiiiil manner hy Dr. Yeunms. The man received the hest possihie cari'. 
 his feet l)eiu>< dressed each day hy the suri^'on, and (un> of the C/row Wart detailed |iarticular)''to 
 attend In idl his wants. Me improved rajtidiy from the time of the operation, and on oui- arrival 
 in San Kruncisco was sent to the Uuiteil Slales uiuriuc hospital. 
 
 Ilavinj.; received on Imard in all lifty-foiir- wrecked men, we ^ot under way <m the morning 
 of Au^just II and steamed to the northward, toward I'oint Franklin. From masthead the i<'e 
 was visible from noi-theast to wt*st, pa<'ked solid from the shore at I'oint Franklin as far as tlie 
 eye coidd rcuch. 
 
 Six vessels of the lleet had in the Mean tinu' cruised toward I'oint Harrow, and as the \ 
 liad closed in to the southward of them, there was no way for them to ^et out until the wind 
 shoulil hiow stron^f enoUKli from the unrtheast tn drive the ice olT shore and leave them a clear 
 passage to t lie southward. Findinj; the cutler could then he of no further service to the whaling; 
 lleet, we steaiuefl to the southward and anchored rtff Cape Lishurne coaling station. Th(>re wh 
 procured a sup|>!y of fresh water ami steamed over to the coal mine, near Cape Siihint*, intending 
 to take coal on hoard from the mine. 
 
 Finding; the sea too n)U),'h to allow any work to he <h)ne, and it heinj,' unsafe to lay toaiudior, 
 we stood oil" and on under sail until the sea had ><one down, and then anchored off the mine at 
 r»,Hl a. m., .Auj^ust 17. The remainder of the day ami until lo o'clock that ni^ht the crew were 
 employed in watches coaling ship, and we received on hoard ahont Hoventeou tons of steuming 
 coal. 
 
 At \ o'clo(!k the followinfj; moruini,'. as I was very anxious fonceming tho condition of the 
 vessels around Point Harrow, we ^ot under way and returned to th(> noitliward. We anchored 
 uiuh'r ley (!ape that eveuiuf,'. and airived oil' Wainwright Inlet August 1!». 
 
 The steamer Oiva and the hark Mniji <ui<l Sufidn, two of the six vessels that were shut in 
 1>V the ice. succeeded in striking a lead ami wiu-king their way into clear water. Their I'scape 
 was attended wilii considerahh; danger and dilliculfy, ami. as they were ol)lige<l to keep close 
 to the shore while working their way out, both vessels struck tho bottom several times. 
 
12 riUIIHK OK THK STKAMKK CORWIN. 
 
 F'roiii tht< citptiiiiiN of tliitHo vi'hmuIh t Imiriitxl tlutt tli« finir whitlurH loft further north WHr« 
 
 tl»t>n ill iin iinini'tliiift' <liii»m'i'. 'I'lii-y wim-i- iii»<'lit>i'<««l lM«!iiiiil tl«> ^riuiiitl i<'«< iM'twi'cn the Sen 
 lloiMt' iMldiulM liiiil I'Diiit Miirruw. uml. iw Iwt'onj Mtult'il, wouM by iiimpi'llpd to rijiuiiiii until 
 \\\ii wind Hlionltl tiriv»> tli« if« off xliort*. 
 
 Hiiviti^ tliiiH li<iiriii'<| of till' NitfKty of tin* vi<HMti)N, liixt fliullnt; oiir Ni*rviiwri whI'o not likely 
 to 1m» rtMniin>il I'liilin'r, toiiHidciiiix uImo tlif irowtlcd coiiditinn ol" (lii« v«HHid, wr mil imdcr wiiy 
 AnKK^t ti mid Ntitrlt'd on oiii- way to tlii> Houtliwiird. Heloro li-iiviiiK tin' whuliiiK tl"<'t two of 
 thu Miihvl'ii ii«'w slii|»|M'd on Ixmid the Hrlioiincr /'of/c for tln> nMimindcr of tlif *vliiilinK wiiHon. 
 
 (Ml oiu' wiiy sniilli wt> I'l'nJMfd idoii^' tin- mIici|')<, Iniiclu'd itt ('it|M' I.imIiiii'iii' coaliiiK station, 
 i'liint ilo|M>, ('ii|H< 'riioin|iHoii, und (!lnviniHHo Isliind, and on Aii^iiHt '.jT an«diort>d off Hotliani 
 Iiil«t. 
 
 At Point ll<>)M- h'irst Litntfiiant iiowison was d<<taili-d to virtit tlii< Indian villaKf. H*< 
 fouiid it t<-iii|ioi'ai'iiy di'Mt'i'led, aN all tlif natives liad K'"**' I'itlii'i' irdaiid In limit or farther 
 down the l■oa^*t l>> lixli, in lioth caseH to niake lu-oviwionH for the eoniinn wintiT. While Lien- 
 tenant lIowiHon wiiN viHitiiiK the villas". t)ii'e(t men of tho tHiut'N crew, all formerly lieloiiKiiiK 
 to the ,l/<(/((7, entered Home of the hntM. Httde whatever trinkett* they eonid lind and luonnht 
 them on JHiard. Allhnii^li the artirleH were of very little value, they were returned to the 
 liutH on shore, and the men eontined in ironn iim a )inniKhineut for their aethm. No such depre- 
 dation has .siiiee liecii eoiniiiitted by any of the men brought down by iis. 
 
 At Cape TlKimpsiui we look fresh water on lioanl. and this was dune whenev*>r th^ «piK»r- 
 tiinily olVei'ed, HM I deemed it iieces.'jary to keep ii full supply oil liaii<l. on account of the laixe 
 
 number of penple oil board. 
 
 At this and at idl Hiibseipieiil places where fresh water could ho obtHined, soap wiiH Horvod 
 to the men and they were compelled to ^u usiiore and wash themselves and their clothing- 
 Some of the men comprising Hie whalers' crews were the tilthiest I haveever seen, and seenicfl 
 to httvn no ideft of personal cleanlinesH. The duty of making them keep theniselveHiind cUith- 
 injjf cle:ui. in oivh-r to avoid a contagion which tilth mi^lit cause in such ci'owded (piarters. was 
 anythiiii< but pleasant. One man. who I think was partially insane, was literally covered 
 with vermin, as were also several t>thers of the crews of tlie wre<ked whalers. 
 
 At C'hamisso Island no fresh water could be obtained, alth<nij;h in previous years I have 
 found it an excellent wuterini,'' station. 
 
 On our arrival at Hothain Inlet the expeditious which had been sent to explore the Kowak 
 and NoJitak llivers. the former under Third Lieutenant t-'antwell and the latter in chaixe ot 
 Heconil Assistant KiiKineer McLeneKan. returniHl on board, having in both eases fully acconi- 
 )>lished thi'ohjects for which they were sent. 
 
 l^ii'Ufenaut Cantwell's parly cimsisted. besides himself, of Afr. C. H. Townsend, naturalist 
 of theSiuitlisoniiin Institution ; W. (>. Marsh, seaman ; F, Lewis, Hrenian ; Myninek, the Indian 
 interpreter, who was taken on board at Ht. Miiduiel's; and from six bi ten Indians, as occasion 
 reiinired duriiii,' the expedition. 
 
 The steam-launch beinj; bio small to bike all of Lieutenant Cantwell's snpjilies besides his 
 party, he procured a larj^e skin Ixmt from the Indians, and was thus enabled to take his eiitiro 
 outfit. 
 
 Assistant KiiKineer McLene^an was attended by si>a)nan Nelscm only, as he was unable to 
 get an Indian to accompany the expedition. The skin boat which wius obtained at Ounalaska 
 was used by him and his companion in their (exploration. 
 
 Both expeditions exiierieiiced many dilliciilties and hardships, wliidi at times se(>med insur- 
 mountable, Their pej'severance and labor overcame their trials, ami they succeeded in reach- 
 ing the head of canoe navigation of both rivers; a feat which was never before achieved, and 
 one wlu(di has hitherto been considered imjMKssible of acc()n»))lisi.ment in the time given. 
 
 I)((tailed reports of the expeditions are being prepareil, and will be forwarded to the De- 
 partment as early as jiossible. 
 
 Mr. Townsend, whileon the Kowak River, succeeded in making ornithological, iclithyologi- 
 cal, and entomological coUoctions which will prove of much viiluo to science, and which, with 
 his reiiort, will be submitted to Professor Baird. of the Smithsonian Institution. 
 
II. Ex. 1V1 49 1 
 
 -r-ii^m^: 
 
 I'olNT HOl'E, ESgl'lMo (iRAVES 
 
 POINT IIOI'E. ESgUIMO HOUSES. 
 
11. Ex. 153, « ' 
 
 I'Ol.NT HOl'E. ESgilMO (;f.\ve.s. 
 
 f 
 
 1^*-' 
 
 ^iW.hirjnf9Km i 
 
 ESyUIMU (AMP AT POINT Sl'KNCliK. 
 
CRUIHE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 13 
 
 On the roturn of the expeditions to tiiu Voririu, tiio Indians who liad uccompanied Liea- 
 t«nunt Cantwoll and all tlio natives who liad in any manner assisted tlie expeditions were remu- 
 nerated in Government trade j^oods, wliich had Iwen taken up for tliat purpose. 
 
 When wo were at Hotham Iidet, on the ttii of August, we found aitout a thousand Indians 
 rendezvoused, having come from the interior and from all along the coast, for the [)urposo of 
 bartering, and also to cateh and dry salmon for their winter's us(>. This time, liowever, we 
 f<mnd very few Indians rcMiiaining in tlie vieiiuty, the greater i)art having n^turned to their 
 homes wlien their trading and fishing were ended. 
 
 Augu.st -^S we left Hotham Inlet, and at 4 oVIock that afternoon anehored off Sehismaretf 
 Inlet. Two of the oHieers of this vessel and four of the otlicers of the wrecked whalers went 
 ashore, and al)out two lunii's were sjient in luiiitiug. 
 
 Small feathered game in aljundance was found at Schismareli: Inlet, as at many other places 
 along the Arctic sliore, the birds freijuenting the vicinity of marshes or fresli-water ponds. 
 
 We left Schismarett' Inlet on the return of the Imtiting jiarty. pass(!dCa])e Prince of Wales 
 the following day, and ancliored off our coaling station at Point Sjiencer that eviaiiiig. There 
 we coaled and watered ship, and sent all the crew on shore at tlie watering station to wasli their 
 clothing. 
 
 As that was the last time during the year tliat the coaling station would bo visited by us, 
 the scow was hauled up on tlie heach above high-water mark, and that and everything belong- 
 ing to the (Jovernment made as secure as possibk;. 
 
 The cfial pile was (^ai-efully trimnuu,' and measured, disclosing a deficit of about one hun- 
 dred and twenty tons. This discrepajicy, with the a])i)arent and probable causes tliereof. was 
 tnade the subject of a letter by me to the Department, diagrams and measurements, nnvde by 
 Chief Engineer Kelly, having been forwarded .at the same time. 
 
 The watering station which was established by us last year at Port Olai'ence has proved of 
 inestimable value, not (<nly to us but also to tiuit j)ortion of the Arctic whaling Heet that ren- 
 dezvous at Point Sj)encer. Besides i)eing fret? from all foreign or injurious matter, it is very 
 easy to obtain; the stream runs down from the hills and empties into a basin on the shore, 
 but a few feet above high-water mark. 
 
 We left Point Spencer at midnight of September 1, the fog shutting down thick soon after 
 taking our departure. 
 
 King's Island and Sledge were sighted in the fog, and at half past is on the morning of Sep- 
 tember .'i we anchored in (Jolwin Hay. 
 
 First Lieutenant Hall and Surgeon Yennins were sent to visit the scluMjner lionaiiza, 
 which was then loading ore that was sent down from the mine. On in(iuiry they ascertained 
 that the Invdth of all the mining comjiany was excellent, and that th(> relations existing 
 between the miners and Indians were most friendly. Aside from this no infornuition could be 
 obtained. ( )n the subject of the mine or its prospec^tive yield they were decidedly reticent, and 
 no amount of incjuiry would revcial anything of im]»ortance. 
 
 After the return of Lieutenant Hall and Surgeon Yemans wo got under way and shaped 
 our cour.se for St. Michael's. 
 
 On our arrival there. Myninck. the Indian inttu'preter. who had accompani(!d tho Kowak 
 River exi)edition. was discharged and paid in (Jovernment trade g(jods and monity, the latter 
 being advanced by the Alaska Commercial Company's agent, on an order on the collector of 
 customs at San Francisco. 
 
 On the same, day H. T. Allen, seccmd lieutenant U. S. A., and Mr. J. W. Garland, an Eng- 
 lish tourist, visited the vessel, and both made a reipiest that transportation be given themselves 
 and their companions from St. Michael's to San Francisco on board the Corifiii. 
 
 Lieutenant Allen's party consisted of Sergeant Cady Ro])inson, U. S. A., and Mr. F. W. 
 Fickett, of the United States Signal Service. They left Sitka in March last, and, acting under 
 orders from the War Department, ascended the Copper and Tannenah Rivers. After many 
 hardships they succeeded in exploring a portion of Alaska thirt had nevtn- before Iteen explored 
 or visited by white men. thereby ai'compl,ishing Ji feat which has hitherto been declared 
 impossible. Lieutenant Allen and his companions arrivetl at tho Yukon River in time to take 
 
14 CRUISE OB^ THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 passage down the river to St. Micliael's on the steamer Yukon, in the employ of the Alaska 
 Commercial Com))any. 
 
 Mr. Garland was accompanied by Mr. F. R. Heatty, and together they traveled acroHw the 
 <!ontinent from tlui Clreat Slave Lake to the Yukon River. Their only object in starting on the 
 journey was the pursuit of pleasure, such as was afforded them in iiunting and fishing, and in 
 the extreme novelty of their trip. On reaching the Yukon River tiu-y also look passage on 
 the steamer to St. Michael's. The la«t steamer of the year had sailed fiom St. Michael's 
 several days in advance of the arrival of the ViikoH at that place, and the V<niri)i was the 
 (miy vessel on which Lieutenant Allen and Mi'. ( Jarland could hope to obtain passage for them- 
 selves and companions to San Francisco before July of next year. These facts being known 
 to me, I granted their re<iuest for transportation to < )unalaska or San Francisco, as might there- 
 after seem ])est. 
 
 The addition to our already crowded ve.s.sel wa.s five; but as all except Mr, Fickett nu'ssed 
 with me, if there was any incinivenience experienced by their cimiing it came upon niy.self 
 alone. I found, howevei-, that there was ample I'ooni and ucconinindation for tlieni, am! I 
 experienced no discomfort by their presence; on llic contrary, I found them very jih'iisiint and 
 agreeable compatiious in every way. 
 
 Lieutenant Allen and Mr. (larland slept in llu' cabin on tlu! transoms and Mr. h^ickett 
 occupied a swinging cot in the ward-rr )m. Sergeant Robinsftu sh^it in tiie jiilot-housc and Mr. 
 Beatty slept in the steam-launch tm ileck. Mr. Fickett ate in the ward-room, and the others, 
 as I have before stated, me.«sed with me, and in no way was any ex[)eu.se ini[»o.sed on the tiov- 
 ornment by rea.son of their being on l)oard. 
 
 On the Ml of September we left St. Michael's, enco'?ntered u strong southerly gah^ and 
 heavy head sea, and three days later anchored oft' Hall's Island, where a hunting party went 
 on shore for the purpo.se of killing a polar bear. A minute description of the hunt as it 
 appeared to an observer, necessarily ditt'ering in the extreme from what was experienced l)y the 
 hunting party, would contain too much of the ludicrou.>J to embody in an oflicial repoi't. Mr. 
 Townsend, who W!i.s one of this party, succeeded in killing a lai'ge i)olar bear, which was skinned 
 and brought on board, and will soon be exhibited at the Smithsonian Institution in Wash- 
 ington. 
 
 Another party from the vessel visited the vicinity of the west end of Hall's Island for the 
 purpose of hunting walruses. A largo number were seen, but owing to the roughness of the 
 sea and the rocky nature of the shore none were capturi^l. 
 
 The following morning we left Hall's Island, rtmndcd the east end of St. Matthew's 
 Island, and shaped a course for St. Paul's. While we were in the A'icinity of the seal islands a 
 lookout was kept at ma.sthead for vessels cruising, sealing, or illicitly trailing annmg those 
 islands, but no such vessels were seen. 
 
 The next evening we anchm'ed otf St. Paul's Island. Second Lieutenant Benliani and 
 seamen Thompson and Ericsen rejoined the vessel, having a few days ])r(n'ious gone over to 
 St. Paul's from Otter Lsland, at whitdi place they had l)een left in Juncf last for duty during 
 the sealing season. 
 
 Mr. Townsend left the vessel and went a.shore at St. Paul's to complete the work wliich 
 was begun by him befttre his passage lutrth (ui the Coriciii. 
 
 Mr. Tingle, the Governnu'ut spt-cial agent, with a representative of the Alaska Ccmimer- 
 cial Company, came on board, and both statc'd that during the ab.scnce of the Conn'ii in the 
 Arctic, vessels had been cruising in sight of t\w island for the purj^Lse of killing seals; but, 
 anticipating the Corwin'.s return, and the heavy weather incident to the lateness of the .season, 
 none had been seen within three weeks of that time. These gentl(»men estimated that about 
 fifteen thousand seals had been killed by the nuirauding vessels. I shall ileal further with this 
 subject in my re])ort, tj-eating it as a seijarate topic. 
 
 At 5 o'clock in the morning of September i;.t we left St. Paul's and sti'anied' toward St. 
 George's. Arriving oflF that island, we found that ov.ing to the strong winds, which liad ))een 
 blowing several days, the sea was too rough to allow a landing on the island. 
 
 Continuing on to the southward in a dense fog, at 'i o'clo(;k of the Itth we anchored off 
 
II. Kx. 15,,,.) I 
 
 r,;eiiifc»''"t,*!*^)fiui'i?ii;." 
 
 <«*»?(»?»,. 
 
 ^■r'^.L:^^ '-'^W'jf^'i^o'h.l't h'^:7^^.M:.-' 
 
 I 
 
 row N 1)N sr I'AII. ISLAND. 
 
 (..KOUI' ())• WO.Mli.N Al I'UKI ( L.VKENCE. 
 
II Kx, I !, fi) 
 
 ESyi'IMO (AMI' A I I'OKT CLARENCE. 
 
 ■i^-aRWMOTnSP 
 
 ■.^^r^»mri 
 
 - — ^iB?'^ 
 
 
 b.>l,,lLl.\U) l_A.\ll' AT I'UKl' CUAKl.N'-E. 
 
CRUISE OF THE 8TKAMER CURWIN. IB 
 
 the vok'ftiui of Hiiki'mIiiII'. No clmnKM wjw notirnd in flu* f^oiiorivl nj>pt'iiniii('i< of the iNlaiid 
 from tliiit oliH<-rv<'i| liy us in tlic curly P'H't of (lie mi'.isoii. TIm' scii-lions, wliicli i<i .Iiiim' swiirnii'il 
 lli« iHliiiiil, wi*rt> now ('oiis|ii('uous l)y llicir tiliHt'iico, hikI I mi I I wo ^rowii ami itlioiit a (lo/t>ii Hiiiiill 
 Hoa-liuns wori< nil tliut r<<iiiaiiitMl to i'*>tiiiiiil one of tin' liioiiHaiiils of tii(>ir Npi<cit*H tiiiit fn'<iiutiit 
 tlict islaiiil (luring tlit'ir lirccdin^ scusuii. 
 
 AfliT rfiiiiiiiiiiiK scvi'ial iiniirs at Ho^ohIoIT, wt< w(>if<li*><l luicliiir, Htcaiiit'd aroiiiid l)i<< iiortii 
 I'litl of till' iHlaiul, ami -^liapcii a course for Oiiiialaska. 'I'lii' volcano, as wc steamed past it in 
 Milt iiiKlit. presented ,i most beautiful speitacle. The liriKlit sulphurous li^ht which coin- 
 pletely enveloped its siiiuinit, and hurst foith from rifts in its side, siionu out UKainst the black 
 sky ill the liackKi'oiiiid, making a scene hoi li roiiiantic and beautiful. 
 
 (hi oiir arrival at Oiinalaska, on the loth, the steamer l><ir(t was in port, and three days 
 later the schooner MafHt- Tinner ariivitd. The Turner reported haviiiK sedn, three weokn 
 previous, a schooner between the seal islands und ( >iiiialaska, and thought she iiiiKhf »<(ill l>e 
 criiisiiij.^ in that vicinity for the pni'iiose of killing; seals. 
 
 Aftor (MialiiiK and waterinj^ ship we left Onnulaska September 'l\, and stood on twelve 
 hour tacks to the eastward of St. (Jeor;^e's. toward St. {'aiil's Island. Arriviii>.c "'l^'- I'aid's, 
 we I'eiiiaiiied loiiK enough to comiiiuiiicale with the shore, then )j,'ot under way and steamed 
 to (he .soiitliwnrd, passing 'o the westward of St. Oeor^e's. ami on the morning of the :i.')tli 
 of September made fast to the dock at Onnalaska. There I found a letter addressed to me by 
 the American CJaniiiiiK Company of Alaska, stating? that the bark Mitntitnn had been wrecked 
 in Bristol Bay. and that her crew and piis.sen^ers, numbering twenty-live persons, were ashore 
 at MeshaKak. The assistance of the Corn'in was then reipiested to take the men from Mcsh- 
 aj(ak til Han FraiiciHco. A letter had also been sent to the aKents uf the American ('aniiini^ 
 Ooinpany in Han Francisco, and from the captain of the steamer .S7. /Vn*/ (which arrived at 
 Onnalaska before our ilepartiire) I learned that a steamer had been seiit^ from San Krancisco 
 with supplies for Sitka and other places aloiij? the coast, and instructed before returning to ^o 
 to Meshaxak and take the twenty-five men on board for passage to San Francisco. 
 
 At Onnalaska wt< coaled and watered ship and piircha.sed a ipiantity of provisions of the 
 Alaska ('ommercial C'oniiiaiiy for tho uhu of the passenxttrs and crew on the voyajife from Onna- 
 laska to San Francisco. 
 
 A stroll); nortliwest k'vIo blew Htoadily for throe days while we were at Onnalaska. the wind 
 ref^isteriii); a velocity of nearly sixty miles per hour at theSij^nal Service station. During this 
 ■storm the .steanu"- .S7. l'<tnl wan hove to under the lee of the Aleutian Islands, and arrived 
 in port after the K'llo had .subsided. 
 
 All our su|)plies having; been received on board, we left O'.iiialaska at 11 o'clock on the 
 morning,' of ( K-tobcr | and started on our homeward journey. The first three days of our voyapi 
 wo encountered stronjj; head winds and sea, and experienced rouf^li and disagreeable weather; 
 the remainder of the voyage, however, was uneventful. Shortly befori' noon of October 11 
 land was sighted, and at 2 o'clock of the following morning wo anchored iu San Francisco Bay, 
 a luqipy ending of the Cor win's succoasful cruise of 1H85. 
 
 THE INDIANS. 
 
 During the cruise of the Corwiu in the Bering's Sea and .\rctic Ocean, all the villages 
 adjacent to those waters were visited by us, some oi them .several times during tho season. 
 
 No evidences of liquor were obsc^-ved among any of the Indians of tho Alaskan coast, while 
 among tho Siberian natives the jtrcsence of liipior was niideiiiably attested. At Cape Tchapliii 
 
 (Indian Point) Indians visited the ves.sel in an intoxicated conditi and the onialik (chief) 
 
 informed us that about fifty barrels of rum were concealed on shons. which had been traded for 
 by his people with American whaling ves.sels. 
 
 A large number of whales had been taken by the natives on the Siberian coast during the 
 season, while on tho Alaskan coast scarcely a whale had been seen. The bone was procured 
 and afterward traded for liquor to some of the whaling ves.sels that hiul stopjied there to engage 
 in that nefarious traffic. 
 
 All the liquor had beeu disposed of by tho whalers before they entered tho United States 
 
m CKUIHK OF THK HTKAMKK COKVVIN. 
 
 iloituiin, li tliiii'oiiKli (•Xiitiiiiwitioii hy llio iilllcprN nf thi> Corwin of oach hikI ovury vuhhuI met 
 ((iHcUisiiiK tilt' |ir«rtHiu'(* of notliiiiK of iv coiitnihiiiitl iinttiru. 
 
 TliK liuliitiiN ui'ti trouti'il kiiully liy nil vossoIh visifmi^ tho Arctic, tli« NHilors not kruiwiii^ 
 how NDuri, ]>y ntitHiiii nl' hhimi' tiri-iili>iil, Ihcy nmy lio lliniwii mi liifir dnir'ity nrid he ('<iiii|ifil)'<l 
 to ritiiiiiiii with tlu'iii ami to (1«<|k'iii| <iii tln'm Cor (ln<ir >*ul»sist(<iic«< tmtil |ifo|M«r succor arrivHH. 
 
 Kvcry vcMscl cruisiiiK in tiic Arctic is viNitcil \>y tim nutivcH. ititil iiiHictcd with their prcM, 
 HJHJe. They often renuiiii I weiity-Cour or even foity-ei^ht hours .it ii time imi hourij ; ami fre- 
 •(iieiitiy ileitend iiiinost eiitiiely on the vcNHelM visitt'd for their food diirinK lli<Mr Ktuy. 
 
 They ivre the must persisteut Uegxurs I Imvo ever seen. Toltucco is the principiil ciliject of 
 thoir lM<KK<^>'y< <^>>'l t)>i*y never pruteiid to uitl thuir own fo«)(l iis lon^ us they can be^ tliat of thu 
 white man. 
 
 A kIuuoo at th«'ip cuIkIuo ruivi lily tUHcluHCH w hut to civiliawl l)einKH woiihi he a s»t!iciont 
 r(>ason for their nnMidicancy. 
 
 (Jknhiis.— Owin^f to the noniadii! or iidj^ratory niilnrenf (he Indians of .Alaska, it is not 
 only dilHcult hut impossilile to form anything more Ihiui a roii>;h estimateuf llu'ir population. 
 They travel from one village to another alon^ the coast, and from island to island and the 
 mainland, for the purpose of hniilin^;, fishinK. imd trading, and are often met st«veral hundred 
 miles from their homes, 
 
 Kron» personal ol>servatii>ns, coverinn; a perioil of ahont fifteen years. I would estimate tho 
 number of Indians inhabilinM the coast and islands, fr'oni Point Harrow to St. Michael's, at 
 throe thou.sand; and the number of interior Indians between those two poiuta at about two 
 thuuHiiiul. 
 
 NAVlOAriOX 
 
 What I have Htate<l in reports of previous years concerning tlio dangers and <liniculties of 
 Arctic naviKiition will apply with e(iinil force to the present. The prevalence of fo><gy or cloudy 
 weather makes it imjiossible at times to obtain astronomical observations; and even when ob- 
 tained they are not entirely to be relied on, on accouid of theKi'cat refraction and indistinct 
 horizon. 
 
 The currents ire not constant either in force or direction, bein^ controlled entirely by tho 
 ice and wind. Dead-reckoning is almost worthless, and the safety of the vessel and its crew 
 depends on the use of the lead and on the e.vercise of constant viKilunce. 
 
 Experience in tln-se waters is of paramount importance. On portions of tho Alaskan coast 
 the general contour of the land is unchanged for many miles, and it re(piii'es exjii-rience and 
 judgment to (establish the identity of certain points of land and thus ascertain the position of 
 the ves.sel. Thi' approach to the mainland is, with few exceptions, markeil by ri'giilar an<l 
 gradiuil shoalings, which make the use of the lead of groat service, and invaluable in thick 
 weather. On Hearing the islands, however, the shoalings are very al»rupt, and do not change 
 perceptibly until in close proximity to the land. The birds which infest the islands sliiiek out 
 a warning in their fright, being |iut to (light by the noise of the fog whistle. One cannot help 
 thinking that in thesti remote and ilangcroiis I'egions Providence has made provisions for the 
 sailor that are in nearer and more safe and familiar watiM's left U) the work of man. 
 
 When in tli(> vicinity of the ice tln< vessel was conned from masthead liy the olhcerof the 
 deck f)r by myself. This position was necessary in order to obtain an unobstructed view of the 
 surroundings, and to selecst tho best pas.sages or leads through the ice. No one uniuHUistonied 
 to Antic navigation can fully ajiprociato tho importance of oxtromo watchfulness, care, and 
 
 judgment. 
 
 SOUNDINGS AND DREPOINOS. 
 
 During the cruise in tlio Behring's Sea and Arctic Ocean we took soundings from the date 
 of leaving Oolwin Bay, .(..ne '.»(!. until our arrival at St. Paul. September^!*. The soumlings 
 were made oach hour when under way and steaming any distance from 11u> land, but when 
 tracking along clo.so to tho .shore tho lead was in constant u.so. These soundings wei-o all care- 
 fully noted ; and will b(^ located on a <'liart of those waters, when finished, to bo submitted to 
 tho hydrograpliic office in San Francisco. 
 
II K> It), «!> I 
 
 '■^^■mm 
 
 
 
 MUISKS AM) NAIIVI.S Ol' KA.^I' ( AI'K, MHKU1A. 
 
 
 
 
 VlLLAGli AT EAST CAl'li, SlllKRlA. 
 
II ¥.\ m, (I I 
 
 a 2. 3i 
 
 \ V I l\ I. WCIMIA I A' I < ttl'l' slllll<l\ 
 
 NAri\ tt MKN, i-:\sr ( m-k. siheria. 
 
CRUISE OF TMK STKAMKR COKWIN. 17 
 
 Drt'<lKi"K'^ were also iiuidc iil iiitt'cvals iliiriiiH' tlii^ friiisr, or as often an (lie iwitnri' of ilio 
 
 liottoiM wuiilil iici-iiiil, luiil qiiitt' a collection of s[iecinii'ns, incliidinj^ sonin that are new, wore 
 
 ol)taiiit'tl. Tliese Hpeciuiens were jtrtvsei'vwl in siiirits, uuil on our (urivitl at San Francisco 
 
 were I'orwanled to the Smithsuniati Institutiuu, where they will be properly itlentified and 
 
 I'lassitiod. 
 
 MKDICM. Ml) L\ run AliCTir. 
 
 The value of i]w wervices of a medical ollicer iu the Arctic cannot li« too highly estiniatwl, 
 the attenilaiiri" on the ollicers and crew of tiu^ ('i>iifiii foi'minj; hut a snuill portion of the duty 
 wliicli he is called on to perform. The Alaska t'onunercial Company em])loys one doctor at 
 Ounalaska and two at the seal islands, hut they are so far removed from tlie Arctic that their 
 service's are seldom, if t^ver, called into recpiisitiou' hy any of the whaling fleet. The ci'ews of 
 the fleet comjirise ujiwarils of one thou.sand men, and a lar^^e |)erccntaKt' of these are annually 
 treated hy the medical otlicei- of the Coni'iii. 
 
 When the ('(niriii first went north the Indians had a ^reat repugnance to receiving nu'd- 
 ical attendanct< from a doctor, hut would resort to tlu'ir shaniau t(i cure all their ailments. 
 Now, however, the doctor is sought hy them in all their ills, and their faith in his J)owot is 
 
 tndy surprising. 
 
 FISllKlilKS OF ALASKA. ,» m 
 
 in relation to the salmon and cod lisheries of AlasUa mentioned iu my report of last year, 
 1 liiive hut few I'einarks to add. 
 
 It is almost impossilde to <'onceive of the immense (|nantilies of these lish that ahonnd in 
 the Alaskan Territory, priindpally in the waters adjacent to Mristol Hay. Fish canm>ries havo 
 been establisheil along the bay, and the enterprise is destined to bcconu^ one of the leading 
 industries of Alaska. 
 
 Fi'om people who are interested in die undertaking I learn that the yield of salmon in the 
 Koskoguim and Mishagak Rivers, tributaries of Hrist(d Hay. exceeds that of the Colundiia 
 River, and that- they are of a (juality not excelled by any. The yield of codfish in the bay is 
 nearly as great, as that of salmon, it is a matter of gr(>at regret that- the labors of our Coast 
 Survey vessels have not been direi ted to these waters. 
 
 No thorough or reliable survey has ever been made of the rivers, and it is sincei-ely to be 
 hoped that the (lovernmenf will cause a survey fo be maile of that portion of the <'ounlry. and 
 thus by its assist ;i nee adil an inijietus to na\ig;it ion and a st imuliis to the new enterpi'ise. 
 
 Capt. C T, Hague, with tliesteanu'i- Ihtni, ascende<l the Koskoguim Kivei'as far as lati- 
 tude ;V,)° ,'1'?' N. the past sunmu'r, an<l he is of the opiiuoii that the river is navigable for a dis- 
 tance of tifty or oiu; hundred miles farther up than that point, but it requires proper snr"t y 
 anil delineation. 
 
 TIIK SK.Mi I'ISIIKKIKS. 
 
 In previ(tus n^ports f have called the attention of the Department to the importance of 
 greater i)rotectioii to sealdife in Ali.skan watei's. and especially in the vicinity of the Pribyloff 
 Islands. 
 
 Last year the schoonei' Adt'lc w.as seized by an oHicer connected with this vessel ror unlaw- 
 fully killing seals and delivered by him to the llnite<l States anthoritie.s at San Franci.sco. 
 fnstead of being forfeift'd, as provided by section lUM, R(!visod Statutes, she was snbseciueidly 
 relea.sed on Icchnicai informalities. 
 
 The same vessel has pursued her illegal occupation during the pa.st .summer, and hor release 
 from ju.sticehas wvy generally led to the belief that the seizure of the .l</c/<' wasan act unwar- 
 ranti'd by law. 
 
 Otiu-r ve.^sels bad previously been seized for the same otVense, hut 'n no instance has 
 punishment been iidlicb'd. The Department can reailily see what the result will be if thi.s 
 state of affairs be allowf^d to continue. 
 
 During the year quitit a nundier of vessels have raided Alaskan waters for seals and other 
 t'ur-boaring animals. Among the uumbi;r the following, with their catches, are noted : Looh^- 
 H. Ex. 15.) ;? 
 
18 CUUISP: OF TIIK HTEAMKK CORWIN. 
 
 out, l,l(M>.si>jvls; Mditf KIliH, rA-*"'* wt'ul.s; Fdiniitc, 'i,oi'>!^> nwiht; Stiii Diego, 1,735 seals; /St'crrn, 
 I, ;j I'.' seals; I'ltinlerOiU, (about) 1,01)0 scaLs; llciiru'ttti, (alMiut) l,ao(iswilH; Alexituder, (i(iU swils 
 anil lo7 sca-otli'is; Otti'r, a fow soals and about ."iO or <i(» scaottois, with tlio Adcle and other 
 vessels yet (o hear from. Thus it will be seen that upwards of ten vessela wuru en^agtsd in 
 unlawful soalin^ in Alaskan waters duriiijf tho present year, and 1 am convincod that noxt 
 yoar tho number will l)c> cousidorably increiised. 
 
 Runmrs are current here that tlu^ Ameriean eonsul at Victoria has informed dift'orent 
 liei>i)le (hut (hey are ; ot prohibited by law Croni sealing in Ahuskau or other waters, pro- 
 videil they keej) moro than throe leagues from tin slioro. Encouraged by this decision and 
 the success of (he marauding sealers during the pr^^sent yoar, parties in Victoria aro fitting 
 out vessels (two or throo being sleam schooners) to engage in the business lu'xt year. Not 
 nuly aro seals killed out of season, but they are shot in the water, and young iiud old, male and 
 female, killed indisoriminatoly ; all indirect violation of sec^tions l!»(io and l!M)l, Kevisod Stat- 
 utes, and all tending, if allowed to continue, to drive tho seals from their regidar haunts. 
 
 8kins so (obtained are sh}))ped to London as Victoria skins, and on tlu^r return to this coun- 
 try, after dressing and dyeing, are invoiced at a price far bch>w their jictual value U) avoid the 
 payment of legitimate duties. The Government, by this means, loses about Si. 50 on each skiu 
 so Invoicid, and on the catch of the present year is defrauded to tlu^ amount of ab<uit $"i0,0(«t 
 uu duties alone. In addition to this, the royalty of $'iJi*) per skin, as provitled by .section 10G!>, 
 liitvised Statutes, is not paid, tho Government thereby being defrauded of many thousands of 
 dt'lhirs adilitional. 
 
 In view of the fontgoing facts, I would respectfully suggest: 
 
 First. That the l)ei)artment cause to be printed in the We.storn pajjors, )»articularly those 
 (if San Francisco, Cal., and Victoria, B. CI. the scictions of law reliiting to the killing of fur- 
 liejiring animals in Ahuskau waters, and delining in specilic terms what is meant )iy Alaskan 
 waters. 
 
 Secondly. That a revomie-cutter be sent to cruise in tho vicinity of tho Pribylofl' Islands 
 and Ahuitian group during the sealing season. 
 
 One vessel cannot protect those islands and visit tlu! Arctic Ocean hesides. Tlio ci'uising 
 ground is far too extensive, covering as it dcjos a distance (jf several thousand miles, and while 
 the cutter is absent in tho Arctic much damage can be done by marauding vessels to tlie seal 
 islands. 
 
 The jiresenco of a cutter is needed in tho Arctic to look after the Indians and to j)rovent 
 the illegal trallic in liquor. Tho AvJialing fleet, representing as it does hundreds of thousands 
 of dollars and over a thousand lives, exposed to the rigors an<l hardships of that frozen 
 cuuntry, culls for .some ^jrotection on (lie [lart of the Government, a fact which is attested by 
 the services rendered the fleet during the ])ast few years. 
 
 Since the Territory of Alaska was ceded to tlm United Stiites no otFicer of tho Government 
 has Iveen on olFicial duty in Alaskan waters nu)re than I. my lirst assigniuent having been in 
 IWiH. From [x'r.sonal observations cr»vering most of (he (ime from that date to the present year, 
 I can truly say that the condition of the nalivi-s has improved in a remarkabliMlegree since the 
 .\laskan Commercial Com{)any has obtained the leasee of that portion of tin- country from tho 
 Government. Before the c(jmpany assunu'd control of the seal islands the natives were but 
 little in advance of (he Indians of Alaska. Their hal)i(ations were formerly mud huts, and 
 (heir food and idothing such only as the country afforded. Edxicaticm, even of the most jirimi- 
 (i\c nature, was unknown and undreamed of. and they, being satisfied to live from day to day, 
 gave no thought whatever of the morrow. Their huts h;ive n<jw given places to con d'ortablo 
 frame hou.ses, giving them an air almtwt of luxuriaiu'e. when comi)ared with their fcu'mcr 
 al)odes. Car])ets. furniture*, and the ordinary comforts of the middle chisses in the United 
 States form the rule f)f the furnishings of (heir houses. In dress tlu^y border on the extrava- 
 gant, silks with the women and broadejotlis with the men being nfit infrcquput. while many 
 of the latter have ne.'it sums of money pla I to their cre(li(. 
 
 Schoi>lH are maintained on the islands, and attendance at them is compulsory. A church 
 
II. Ex. 153. « 1 
 
 .i^r-- 
 
 -J^^''"i%'$M4^- 
 
 ;^-T^ 
 
 ^fe-Sp'^ii?^^ 
 
 rm 
 
 UKOlll' Ul' bUR Sli.M., ?.!■. I'.MI. 1SL.\NU. 
 
 ST. HAI;L'S island. KU.' Nl^; HtlK-SK.SL 
 
II. Kx 151, 44 > 
 
 
 Sl I'Al I'S ISI.A.M) SKAl. ON KII,I.IN(. (iknl'MJ. 
 
 •'•*-"**—-' 
 
 ,*-•*?*, 
 
 KUR-SEAL ON BEACH, ST. I'AUL ISLAND. 
 
CUUIHK OF THE STKAMKIl COUVVIN. 10 
 
 (^osliriK fl'l.iXHi wii.s crcrU'd tin Kt. I'mils Island, mid is now almost clrar of dul)t, thu niimcy 
 liaviuK Ix'cn advanced liy tliu Alaska Coninicrcial Company, 
 
 A doctoi' is i'm|iioyi'd on carli of tho islaiidH of 8t. I'aul and St. (jcor^c, and at Otinaiaskii, 
 Hiili'ly for till' cari' of tlm nalivi's. 
 
 Till* K('»t'i'«'l <^>i' of cluunlincHs, ha|>iiint*NM, ooMifort, and |iros|H'rity atlcst in indisputablu 
 terms tliat tlii> Alaska (<oniini>i'('ial Company have and do fiillill llicir oliliKutions tiiwartls tlii'su 
 pi'opli' in a most scrupulous and coiiscicntioiis manner, and tlic result nii^lit, 1 am uuru, uxoitu 
 the wonder ami envy of many missionarius laboring iinion^^ a Himilar clasH. 
 
 THE IVIIALISO FLEET. 
 
 The whalinj,' Heet durinj? the past year conaiHted of forty-two vessels, tliirty-tliree of which 
 visited HeriiiK Heu and Arctic < )cefiii. Ei^jhtecn of the Arctic whalers hailed from New Bo«l- 
 ford. Mass., and llie remtunder from San Friinci.sco, Cal. 
 
 Although all the vessels met wer»' H»il»j(*ctt(d to a very thorouKh (>.\aniination, no evidenceH of 
 li(|uor or other commodities intt'iided for illicit tradic were discovered, the reason l>cin>;, as has 
 liel'ore lieeii stated, that all the whalers which did en^aKe in conti'aliand trade had disposvil of 
 their illej^al floods liefore entering the United States domain. A nuijority of the fleet have been 
 more or less damaged by ice diiriny the present year, and five vessels sull'ered total loss. The 
 bark l\i<iiihi>ir was cruslied in the ice April l.'i, and the (ictzi'llc and Xtipnlfoii met with a sim- 
 il.ir fate. The (luzi'lh- was wrcckeil .June .t about twenty miles SSK. of Southwest Cape. St. 
 L.iwiciice Island, anil her crt?w and al.so the crew of the lidiuhoir were rescued and distriluited 
 anion;; the ve.s.sels of the fleet. The Napith'on was wrecked in latitude til" .'}(»' N., longitude 
 i7( 4(1' VV., and the first and third mates, with twenty of her ci-ew, were eitliei- drowned oi- 
 fi'ozen to death, 'i'iie remaimler were rescued, and they also were divided anions the vessels 
 of tile fleet. Tlu« barks (Ivitvife anil Susan and the Mahvl were wi-ecked olf Wainwri^ht Inlet 
 .\ii;,Mist 11. a detailed account of which has idready been ^iven in this I'cport. I'p to d;ile of 
 writing, all the Arctic lleet with the exception of the l)ark A im-llii/.sl have arrived in San 
 Ki'ancisco. 
 
 The catch of (he season by vessels of tlie New Bedford fleet is one hundred and twenty-two 
 bowhead !i.n<l twi nty-three ri^hi whale-i, anil that of the San Friincisco lleet is one hundred 
 bowiieiid ,'uiil twelve rit^lit whales. This makes u total catch (not iiicluiliiij< the .l///c/////.s7) of 
 two hundred and lifty-.seveii whales, which compares very favorably with the work of previ- 
 ous stNisons, and is more evenly distributed than has heretofore been the case. 
 
 Considering the m.iiiy dangers tc which the Arctic wluilers are ex|M(sed. it seems almost a 
 miracle tluit more vessels are not lost ejich year, and this fact spejiks volumes in jiraise of the 
 skill and professional ability of the capt.iins and oflicers navi^atiiit; those vessels. In reality, 
 tile captains and olliceis of the Arctic whaling vessels. a,s seamen, cannot be excelled, anil aa 
 a class are my be.-ui ideal of the Amei'ican seam.-in. 
 
 ciiinvDEi) co.xDiriox of the \'essel. 
 
 It is almost impossible to convey any more than a valine idea of the crowded condition of 
 the vessel b(^foi'e \wv return to San Fi'ancisco. Four jieople occupied berths on the cabin tran- 
 .soms. .-iiid in the wjii'd-room all the state-rooms wei'e tilled, ■•iiid three cots suspended from the 
 deck bciims. Oni' berth was made in the pilot-house, and two in the st(!am-launcli on deck. 
 Tile store-room ami sail-lo(;kers on the berth-dock were torn down, and berths ei-ected foi' the 
 accomiiio(Iiition of the oflicei's of the whale ships. The (piarterniiisters berthed in the oil -lockers, 
 iind the lirenien and coal-pas.sers were obliged to slee|» in berths erected in the shaft alley. 
 Owiny to this crowded condition it was necessary to diviilo the crews of the wrecked whalers 
 into two watches, and have them perform duty with (Uir own crew. Tliis course was neces.s.-ii-y, 
 not only to jirovide slpoping accommodations for all hands, but also to keep the vessel in a 
 l)roper sanitary condition. As the men came on Ixiard they were mustered on the ipiarter-deck, 
 and tlu' situation ex]»laiiied to them. They were told that they wore to work in regular watches, 
 and that they wyuld at all times while on board be subject to the rules governiny the discipline of 
 
20 CRUISK OK THK STKAMKK ("oil WIN. 
 
 tho v»'Hst>l. All ai'coptoil thoHitimtioii, iiotwitliHtiindiiiK •'"> fiK't tlmt Homo of thorn could liiivo 
 rtliippcd MM (illicr vt'SHcls (if the wluiliiij,' llcrl (ny till' D'Hiaiiidi-i' of (lit' soisoii, liiul tlicy cliosi'ii. 
 
 No disliiirtioii WHH iiiiidc filliir in work or fund liclwi'i'ii tlir wrecked men liiid our owii 
 »'row, hikI (iviiry (tffoi't wiw iiiiule to eiditiiliute to the ri)iiil'ort of the iiew-coiiicrH. Evimi tlm 
 privute stoi'es of" the Coririii'n crew were l»y my ordi'rs sliared eipially umoiif; all. K<ir a time 
 llie men Were Mati.slied with their lot, Imt .snoii lie^an to show Hi;;Msol' dissivlislaction. Several 
 mutinous dcmoust rat ions were nuido l>y tlieiu while they wen) ou honnl, Inil as they were 
 always met with a lirm hand, sei'ioiis res\dts were avoided. 
 
 It ^ives me^real pleasure to attest to till' manliness and hiinmuitye.xhi luted hy tin- Coiiiiii'.s 
 crew dui'in^ the tryinjif ordeal, each vyin^ with the other in tlieii" endeavoi- to aid their uid'ort- 
 nnate t'ellow-mariners. Their food was shared clieerrully, and some of tlieir (dothin^ that 
 could not he well spared was ^iveu to the wrecked men. "Man's inlintuHnily to man" was 
 lorcihly exemplified in the troiitmont they received in return on tho purt of hoiuo of their heue- 
 lit'iiiriuH. 
 
 COSCLUSIUN. 
 
 It is ><en»^i'ally untlei-stood that thu (\>nriu is to he relitn'ed hy tli. Ilettr Ua' Arctic duty. 
 If siK'h a fdiaii),"' if^ I'ontemplated, hefore it is made I would respectfully call the seriiuis atlen- 
 lioM and consideration of the l)e|)artment to I he fad tlial ninetei'U feet of water, which I und«'r- 
 sland is (he drau)r|it of the lii'<ii\ is altoj^etliei' too ^;reat to make her an ed'ective <'ruiser on the 
 shore of the Arctic Ocean. With suidi a drau;<hl, all elVeetiveness as a cruiser aKiiinst contra- 
 hand tra<le and as an aid to vessels that mi;-'!'' hecouu' stranded would he .seriously imjiaired if 
 not totally destroyed. 
 
 In my opinion .a greater drau;;ht than twelve or tliirtei'U feet would he a hindi'ance to ell'ect- 
 i\e service. The Conriii ha.s perfornu'd thisAvork during? the last live yeurHo.xcuptiomvlly well, 
 and, in my opinion, she is admirahl)' suited for the cluty. It is true thai when she has a larp' 
 
 nunilier of I |ile on lioard. .-is has lieen ! he case I he past ( woseasiuis, she is very nuicli cro wiled, 
 
 hut (lie ellicii'iicy of the Nessel as a cruiser is not at all im|iaireil, the only iiiconveni«'Uc« heinn 
 the personal disci mi forts. It is reasoiialile to suppose that this crowded condition of the vessel 
 will occur only occasionally; and any ollicer would prefer an ellicient vessel, even though 
 crowded, one having t he ^jreater and more serious impcdiinent of an overilraiiH:ht. 
 
 The new liiixli, liein;^ a lar^'er ves.sel than the Cunriii, has that siiij^le ad\anta|i;e ov(ir her, 
 and niijfht he a very .servicealile vessel for Arcti<' duty; hut it is not reasomihle to snpposu that 
 the l)i'partmi'iit would i^n to the unwarranted ex|)i'nsi' of sliealliiny the new vessel and pi'ovid- 
 in^ lier with an ice-hrrjiker when the Ciniriii is already so titled. Kvcii if the l\ii,sli was so 
 ]irovided the only known adv antaj^e would lie in larger (inarters; and 1 am positive that she 
 (■aiiiiot excel, if she can CI I iial. 1 lie ^ 'o*vc//( in com hilled sail in j^, steam i 11)^. and sea-)j;oinj^i|nali(ios. 
 
 The nece.ssil.v of liaviujj;two vessels crui;-" on (lie Alaskan northwest coast has been fru- 
 iHteiidy and s(ronj;ly nientioiied to the Departmeiil. The water from the .seal isliiiiils Houth, 
 aioiiiiil the Aleiidan and Shtimairin Kroii|is. and also around Kodiak and Sondieastern Alaska, 
 is liuld and ilee)», and can lie iia\i;jfa(ed. so far ;is wa(er is coiiceriii'il, hy vessels of (he i;i'ea(est 
 dr;iiii,dit. and (o nie il appears (hat (he /Icai- wmild he v.ell adapled for llia( dn(y. 
 
 I( iiiiis( he oh\ iiiiis (o (he |)epartmen( ( hat i( is iiiipossihie for one ve.s.sel to cover the entire 
 crnisiiiH: ;^riiunil in Heriiij,' Mea and Arclic Ocean, eiiiliiacin^ as i( does an «jxtent of over seven 
 (lioiisaiid miles. 
 
 Ha\iiiK cruised for a niiniher of years in every pnilioiiul Alaska, from Sitka to Point 
 Harrow, and aiiioii^r all the islands, and served on (iiis duly much lon>;:er than .any oilier person 
 iiuder the (ioveriiment, I should undersland the needsof (he coiiidry in (his ies|iecl: (hereforn 
 (he fdri'i^oiii;.? su^jnest ions are made as a mailer of du(y only, and willi hecomiiiy deferenco and 
 hesitation. 
 
 Vei-y respi'ctfully, yoi.r ohedient servant, 
 
 llou. DaNIKI, MA.NNINd, 
 
 Secretary of the Trennur;/, lV(isfiin<jfi)ii. I). C. 
 
 M, A. HKALY, 
 
 Cii 1,1(1 ill. I'. S. R. M. 
 
II. R>. 151. 44 • 
 
 sr I'AHl.S, ISI.WK KU( KS AM) SK.M.S 
 
 J- 
 
 
 ST. PAUL'S ISLAND. VOUNG SEALS. 
 
i»Ar:ER I. 
 
 A NAIillATrVE ACCOUNT 
 
 EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK RIVER, ALASKA, 
 
 UNI>KI( IIIK DIKKCTION (IK 
 
 OAPT. MTOIIAKL A. FTT^ALY, 
 
 COMMANDING D. S. IlKVENl'K 8TEAMEI: COKWIN. 
 
 BY 
 
 Tniltn LTRUT. .lOIlN (5, (iANTWELL, 
 
 U. H. It. M. 
 
 18 8 5. 
 
 m 
 
hKTTKU OK TKANSMITTAL. 
 
 r. S. Kkvkni'k Stkamkk ('oUWIN, 
 
 Siiii b'ldiirinvit, (V(/., Jiiniiitri/ 'i(K issr,. 
 SiK : lltTcwitli is n'S|)i'cirully Iriiiisiiiillcil ,1 nurrativc lu'ciiiini of tbo I'xplnratioiiM ul' \\u- 
 Kowiik Uivcr, Altiskii, together' witli |ilintn){i'ii|i|is ainl ski-tclicH ininUi liy nut in tliiit ri'Kioii. 
 
 TIh' rcpDi'l (111 111!' iiiiliirul liistni V is midcr iircparatioii l>y Mr. Cliarlt'H II. TdwiihciiiI. and 
 11 iMipy will lif (Iclivcrcil to vmi as mooii as cnmiilctccl. 
 
 I rc(«l Miirc you will iimlcrstiviid tin- ililllcultii's iiinltT which I havo hvJxircil in attciiiptinj,' 
 to conipilt' till' ilata wliicli we have Iit'cii at such pains to collect., anil in (HmHcquoncc ticctn it 
 ainioHt unnecessary to ask your imlnlj^ence for its many iinpcrf<«<'tionH. 
 
 I desire to placit inyHcIf on rcconl aw liein^; nniler ^reat olili^^atioiiH to you for ovcry favor 
 that has lieeii shown t<i iih- in the matter of the exitlorations. Much, if not all. of the honor 
 of liein>< the pioui'ers at the headwaters of liie Kowak is due directly to your forethriuj,-lil, and 
 the example you set me of well-sustained and indomitable cniTgy. I thank you for thiH ami 
 for all your kindness, and hix ♦" suhscrilic myself, 
 
 Very truly and Kiatcfullv, your obedient servant, 
 
 .lollX O. OANTWELI., 
 
 Tliinl Linitciuiiil, ('. ,S'. li. M. 
 Caj.t. M. A. TiKAi.v. 
 
 Ci>iiniHni(lin<i I'. S. A'. .S'. ('<inriii, Sim Fntiicisvii, Ciil. 
 
 !»3 
 
II. K». 15J, .|.; I 
 
 I'.S. Kl-.\ KM K MAKINK I.X I'll >K| N(. I'AK I'V, K()\\ AK KI\I-.K iSSs 
 
THE EXPLORATION OF THE KOWAK RIVER, ALASKA. 
 
 ,..«, 
 
 On th<i M of July, IS8.5, the second expedition for tlic exploration of the Kowak River. J 
 umliT the (lii'i'ctioii of Ciwit M A J^f"'.'.!y, ;',.;.i.iiainiiiiK liie U. H. revenue-cntter Cuniin, ' 
 left that vt'sscl oil' liotliani Inlet. Alaska, and licailcd in towards the land. Fortunately the 
 sea was sniootli and the boats of the expedition crossed the bar and reached a good hai'hor in 
 safely. 
 
 In addition to the steaui-launch of the i'oriciii, a nativeskin lioat. about twenty-eight feet 
 in length. Wius procured to trans|»ort our eanip outfit and an extra sup)ily of coal which we 
 brought along. We cxiiicled to tiuil at this place the Indians' i'cndi'/,voiis I'oi' tlicir summer 
 trading, but none had as yet aiTive(l, and we experienced some dilliculty in getting a suitable 
 boat and an additioiuil number of Indians to accompany us up the I'iver. However, 1 induced 
 one man to forego the jdeasures of the reiide/vous to go with us, and with a, rickety apology for 
 a boat. loade(l down to her rail with coal and stores, we start"d up llothani Inlet toward the 
 mouth of the Kowak. A brisk northwest wind sprang U]) and rapidly iiu'reased to half a gale 
 after we had faii'ly got started. The conformation of the shore is such that no protection can 
 be had foi- small boats with the wind in this direction, ami our only hojie lay in reaching the 
 mouth of (he rivei' before a heavy sea was made in the inlet. 
 
 Our sail was hoisted ami with the skin boat in tow we sped away. k"e[)ing as much as pos- 
 sil)le nnder the high lilufVs on the west side of the inlet. In rounding the points which i)ro- 
 ject from this side of the bay. however, (he deeply loaded boats were nearly swam|)e(|, jincl our 
 Indians were very min-h afraiil that the old skin boat would be pulled to pieces by lieing (owed 
 so fast. All hands were kept bailing, and (he Hteamdaunch was kej)t free of water with the 
 aid of the steani-pnmp. steam being usimI for this purpose only, and a( ;t o'clock a. m. of .lidy ;{ 
 we reached a point opposKe a month of (he river which I explored last, year, and bringing our 
 marks in range, we ma<le a bold d.-isli across the now rough inlet, and in a few inomtMds found 
 otirselves safely between the low gi-een banks of the stream. Noom- hail as yet had .any sleep, 
 and I thei'efore arranged (he par(y in(o (wo wa(ches. (o relieve each other every six hours, and 
 in (his way avoideil (he necessily of s(o]i])iiig to camp. 
 
 Before leaving San Kranci.sco. several additions had been made to the launch, which wero 
 suggested by the exiterience of last year's wcirk. Among them the most noti(;eable, us con- 
 tributing to the 7'apid advance of the pai'ty. were the following: 
 
 (1) A sheet-iron stove, made to lit in forwai'd of (lit^ boiler. 
 
 (2) The enlaigenient of the furnace. 
 
 (:i) An arrangeme'it of the (^\haust-i)ipe by which the feed water was heateil before enter- 
 ing (he boiler. 
 
 In addilion to these improvements, it may bo noticed tin., the extra sup])ly of coal brought 
 along saved us the n<>cessity of stop|)ingto cut wood. It will be seen, therefore, that oui'ou(fit 
 was most complete and we were enabled to eat and sleep while ailvan<'ing at the rate of seven 
 knots ])er hour. 
 
 The lower part of the river being entirely free from obstructions, and having but little cur 
 rent, wemade rapid jirogress. stoppingonceonly. at an Indian .settlement aboTit tliiily miles fi-om 
 the month of the river, to leave our nuvst and sailH, a supjjly of coal and provisions, (o form a 
 H. Ex. bW 4 20 
 
26 CKUIHE OF THE STEAMER CORWLV. 
 
 bast' of supplipB in case of any afcidtuit. ami at tlie mul of two days we reachwl tliat j)art of tlm 
 river wiicrti it Ifavi's tiic vicinity of Di-viation Peak ant! triMuis to tlio soutliwani toward liie 
 nionntainn iyinj^ Ix'twccn tlic Ki)\vaii Vallt-y and Sclawik Laku region. Upon (■onii>aris()ii I 
 found Miat Hiis j)oint was ifailicd aftoi' ten days' tt'didiis woi'k in I8KI, and tiii' fad j^avt' us 
 ail considcrabir picasurr. 
 
 At till' lower rapids flic Indians of a lisliin^ villap', situated just aliove, met us and se'' inj? 
 the tow-line of l)otli l)oats draKK*'d us tlii-ou;;li the hardest places, with many manifestations of 
 deli><ht at seeinj^ usa^ain. I recoi^nized nuiuy old triends, and was in turn recoj^nized hy them, 
 and was cordially invited to remain at the vdlajje for a while. I sl()i)jied long enouKh to dis- 
 trihute some tritlin^ ]>resents and then proceeded. 
 
 On .Fnly 4 our patriotic fervor was somewhat <lani|iened by a steady downpour of rain. 
 Avhicli lasted all day and caused the river to lise ra]»idly. Towards nijjlit we reached the sec- 
 ond ra|)ids, where coal was first di.sc<)verwl by nm last year. Here wt« encountitred a heavy cur- 
 rent, and with dillicidty fJfot throujfh. Some t wentv ln<lians of the (!«li!?i>^ \iIl.M».. Mc<-f.i>>.p:'.:<.i'."! 
 us and allorded us j^reat assistance at Ihih! point. Once past this stilf poi'tion of the river the 
 little launcdi pufFed steadily away, and mile after mile <if the now familiar shores were left 
 behind. 
 
 < Ml duly T) our sujiply of coal jj;ave out, ami we were coin|ielled to stop for wood ;ind make 
 uur tirst camp, on a sand-spit about ten miles lielow the point where I abandoned the launch 
 in issf. 
 
 We had now reacheil that part of the river where it winds around the foot of the ,I;ide 
 Mountain and then j^oes wand(<riu;;: away more toward the southeast. In this vicinity the 
 width of the stream is greater than at any other jiortion of its course. In some places it. 
 measures at least ei^ht hundred yards. 
 
 It was with a j^reat ileal of an.xiety that we watched the steam-ffaup' after our coal had 
 liecoine exhausted and we commenced to l)urn wood, and when the dial indicafiMl a steady 
 pressure of ei^^hty jiounds I knew we had nothing to fear, A great deal of inconvenience was 
 suffered during the trijt made with the launch in ISSf, owing to the quantities of sparks coming 
 from the funnel. This year no spai'ks at all came out, wiiich I attribute to the fact that the 
 exhaust steam, being led into the funnel, efToctually extinguished them. About noon of the 
 next day we stopped at sonic high sand dunes to cut wood. Op]iosile us the .Jade i\lonnt;iiii 
 could be easily distinguished from the surrounding ](eaks by its peculiar greenish color. 
 
 Photographs of this range, extending from I)(>viafion Peak neai'ly east towurd the interior, 
 vt'iT obtained. 
 
 An old winter habitation was discovered a short distance from the river, and Mr. Town- 
 seia' and 1 proci'eded to exf.mine it. The sjiot had no doubt been selected on account of its 
 sheltered situation. Tin densely wooded ridges running in on the river surrounded the collec- 
 tion of huts almost coniitletely. and ai)proach to the village was made by way of a nai'row trail 
 leading from the river. The hou.ses were built by excavating a sipiai'e hole five feet deep and 
 from twenty to twenty-tive feet sipnire. Stakes or piles of spruce were driven close together 
 along the walls, and long poles were then laid across the ti)]>, forming the roof of the house. 
 The necessary pitch to shed rain was obtained by covering the outside with earth iirranged in 
 such a manner as to produce a mound-shajied structure. We pushed aside the ..II gra.ss w Isu-h 
 choked the entrance and crawled on (air hands and knees along a narrow passage just large 
 enough for one at a time, until we reached the large chamber which doubtless constituted t! e 
 living room. A small square hole in the middle of the roof furnished us suflicient light to see 
 the interior. On the floor, along the sides of the walls, if I may so call them, w^on* i.iid small 
 willow wands, ujion which the inmates were m'customed to lay their skins and .sleep. In Ihe 
 centi'i- a square space was left, where could be si^en the charred .sticks of a long-extinct fire. 
 We set fire to a few <lry sticks, and the smoke shot nj) in a straight column f hrougli the oj)ening 
 in the roof, showing that ilefective flues are a .source of annoyance not yet known to the 
 natives. 
 
 We were glad to escape from the close, moldy iilniosphere of the plai-e and emerge once 
 
II. i: 
 
 
 l3«fe- 
 
 filkiiiMt^ mMmi\ ,gmmtm«m ■otmnjibiiiSiaiSSil'^' 
 
 KOWAK Kl\ l.l^ .\l \'>K A. IKAMI': l-DK JK.V r. 
 
 
 -.-.^ . -.:&i^- ^ ---^_ - _ , ._^ 
 
 
 
 
 KllW \K Kl\ I.K, Nl \U IIKM HAI'IDS. 
 
CRUIHK OF THK STKAMKH COKWIN. 27 
 
 iiiorr into tlxt clciu'. wiii'iii Hiinsliin*'; arxl nf wi> (■oiitfiiiplulcd tlix l)i*aiity of t)i<> day T could nut 
 ]ifl|i lull lliiiik liiiw l<'i'i'il)ly ili-t-ary itiid di-soliilc lilt- iiiiist lir in siicli ii lii>lt> wlicii tlui sun liad 
 gouti tu thu fur Houtli iiud tlio iri'ii ^riiH]) of tliu lon^ Art'tic iiIkIiI wiih luid upon tint HiU-iit (turtli. 
 
 In till' nu'itn Unit! the sound of llic ii\ and saw was waking tliot'cliocsuf tlu' silent liills. and 
 tlif i)irds, iiniuscd liy tlie stranj^n cnninnition, llultcriMl iifi'vously IIii'oukIi tli>' dcnso fnliap', 
 ln'cnniinj; easy victims to Mr. Tiiwnscnd's insatiai)io desire for spefiniens. 
 
 A II day we steanuid ahead, j^radiially leavin;; I he .lade Mountain hehind us and uppi-oaehiu}^' 
 the nionnt.'iins ilindy visible in the southeast. Towai'd ni^lit we reached the reniai'kalile hi;r|i 
 clay hluIVs lunnin^; in on the I'iver from the south. This mai'ks the spot where a portage exists, 
 whereliy a short ranK*' of mountains hearing south from the .lade Mountain can lie reached in 
 oim day. This rauK" separates the Kowuk from thu Helawik Kiver. or I'ather from its north 
 lirancli, as it is divided some 1.50 miles from its mouth. The course of the Kowtik is heie east- 
 southeast hy compass. 
 
 A lij^ht rain set in <lurin>^ the afternooii ,vnd stinidily increased until ahout |o ]). m., when 
 it ceiised lon^ enou^li to en;il)le us to camp. 
 
 1 am convinced liy the evidenci'<>f the natives that clo.se communication could 1 st;il>- 
 
 lislnnl between the Selawik. Kowak, and Noiitak Rivers at this point. It is more than jindialile 
 thiit the course of the latter stre;iin is nearly parallel to that of the Kowak, and is separated from 
 it liy the ran^e of inoiiiilains of which the .lade Mountain is a rem.'irkiilile feature. It is also 
 nioi-e than likely that the Noiitak turns here more to the northwest and c<intinnes this course 
 until liroujjht up hy the coast i-anj^e. when its course is chanp'd toward thi' south, and it so c<in- 
 tiuues to tlow until it empties into llotham Inlet. 
 
 All ni;^lit the r.iin came down in .-i steady sti'eam. and the river rose .so rapidly that I feai'ixl 
 our ciimp would lie washed away. When we lurneil out in the morning the nu'iuliers of the 
 jiarty emery;ed from tlnMi- wet blankets like half-drowned rats, cold, wet. and miserable, .md 
 caused me to wonder if the ori;^inatoi' of the expression, " I'ut a wet lilaid<et on it," ever had 
 any pra<'ticjil experience of the full force and sij^nilicance of the simile. Several times during' 
 the ilay liefoi-e all of tln^ party were compelled to K"^ overboard and shove the launch olf a 
 sand-liar, and in doinjj; so were wet thr<iujj;h and thi'tin\;h ; but these discomforts were tre.itiNl 
 with indilfereiice. It Wiis only when the i-.ain steadily poni'ed down and Hooded their sleepinj^ 
 (puirters lh.it the p;vrty seemed dejected; and I was not surjii'ised when I turni>d out that they 
 came forward in a liody and. Iike( )liver Twist. re(iuested more noiwishment. I caiuiot say that 
 I experienced as much in<li,i;nat ion .-is Mr. Humble is reported to have felt in the c.-ise of ( )li ver, 
 and an add it inial .'ilhiwance of colfee w;is .served out. The sun soon came out, and having' e.aten 
 allot breakl'iist the natuvid buoyancy of the party asserted itself and the night's discomforts 
 were forKoltcn. 
 
 Dnrint; the niornin^c wi' passed the vill.'it;e lln-nah-tak, but no natives were observeil, they 
 haviiifj; as yet not taken up their i(uarters for the summer's (ishiiif^. After the r.-iin myriads of 
 nios(]uitooH came out of Ihe swjimpy lands, ;inil our lives wei'e made niisi^rablu by the.se pests. 
 A slittlit relief was obtainecl by coverintf all exposed parts of the body with a thick varnish 
 niadi) of tar. ixnui ai'abic, an<l olive oil; but even with this disajj[reealile preventive oiir sull'er- 
 iiif^H were simjily indescribabh!. 
 
 ToWiird I (I'clock til" rain be^ijan .aii^ain, and when we stop])ed tocaiuji, at 10 ]i. ni., the very 
 flood-f^ates of he.-iven si^t'iued to have Ikmui opi'iieil. Our (Nimp was niiide under tlu' protect inif 
 branches of a denser fj;rowtli of spruce which boi'dei'ed the stream. The limber id on <j; this jiart of 
 the river is , IS heavy as seen iinywhere; the trees art^ from eif^hty t<i one hundred feet hij^li, 
 and from ten to fourteen inches in diameter. Some trees weriMibserved in iich Ijiri^er, but they 
 foi'ined the exception to the f^eneral rule. 
 
 The mornin,tj<if .Inly S, th(>aniiiver.siiry <if thedeiiartnre from the Co/v/-//* of thefii'st expedi- 
 iou for the exploration of the Kowuk, was ushered in by a terrilic rain-storm, made doubly dis- 
 aj^reeable by ji strong southeast >j;;de which blew directly in our f.-ices, and our |ii'o^n'ess was neces- 
 sai'ily very slow and tedious. The shores of the river were as wiilely separated as ever during' tin; 
 day's udvunce, but tho channel became nurrow and intricate. Sand-bars, extendiuj; in every 
 direction, and gravel beds made Ihe work of lindiiu; the channel very diflicult. About noon 
 
28 CRUISE OK THE STKAMKK COllWlN. 
 
 wi« cntcnMl II rciicli of (lie I'ivtT, sumi' fivt- liiiinlri'il yiirds widi'. iilimist rompletoly cliokorl wi(h 
 Haiiil-l)iU's, hihI iiltliiiii^li I IiimI si-I ii|i nui>;)'s fur tlii< (;liiuiiii'l lust yoar, it liiul 8u cuiiiiiloluly 
 (■lituiK*«l tliiii it wiiM not until t n'clock tlnit \vi< tiiuilly ^nt tluouKli. Tliu uurrout at tlilH pluco 
 WHS I'l'uni live to six knots pfr Imur iin<l incri'iisinK willi llif r'isc of the I'Ivit. AI this pnint 
 unit in till- vicinity of the ,|iult> Moiinluin liii- Imlians of tin- riviT scrni t<i n'nili'/.\'<ins for tin- 
 HuniintT lisliinK': Init on uccoimt of tiiu provaiiinK liif^li watui- l)iit littio work has Ix-rn ijoni' so 
 far in that ilin-ction. 
 
 It is ilitliciilt to dcscTilM' t«ich day's advanc»' and avoid ropolition. Kor Inindrtds of miles 
 afti>r leaving tlicddta. with its hroktMi pcrpcndirnlar hanks of iilack silt-likt'carth, tlu' (.-onntry 
 is tint sani*' low, rolling tundra land, hacked to the northward hy a chain of mountains extend- 
 ing front the coast eastward .-is far as the eye can reiu'h. Sometimes we wander away toward 
 the south and hrin^ short, detachrd ranges of ruKK*'*! nionntains into view; lint soon the river, 
 as if tired of these lesser heiifhts, sec^ks once more the slnulowsof the more pretentions ran^e. 
 For a lon^ distan<'e in this locality iiio tiinher !klon>^ tim rive,' hank is scarce, and Honu'limes 
 for honi's we steam past level plains with not a sii;n of n I I'ce or plant except the ever-present 
 Arctic moss. The hanks of the river here are from ten to lit teen feel hij^li. and com pose •( I hM>,'ely 
 of ice. At half past II we reached an island, a short distiince nhove the hi^^hest position 
 reached hy me in Is,*!), and camped. The continnecl rains have caused a. freshet in the rixi-r, 
 and it is now tilled with <lrift wood and ileltris from the shores. N'owan<l then we pass deserted 
 Indian villaKes which ha<l lu'en washed out, and not infrcipiently we meet a li'/icr or summer 
 hut. remindim; one \ery much of an innnense inverted wicker hasket, (loatini; away toward 
 the sea. llpon the upper end of the island, wher'e we camped for the ni^^ht. a previous tlood 
 had deposited a huKe pile of driftwood, whiidi we soon converted into a hontire. Worn out. 
 wet, and chilled throu.i;:h hy the hard day's woi'k in the lioats, we stretched ourselves around 
 the lire, and soon only the roar of the tljimes as they shot slr.iij^ht up in tiie still jiir, ami tiie 
 murmur of Ihi' river as it I'aced past the islaml. hroke the .solemn stillness of the ui.t,'ht. 
 
 As usual, we hei^iui work next mornin>; in the midst of a rain-storm. The rivei- rose a foot 
 ilurin>^ the iiiy^ht, and the larj4;e (pnmtity of driftwooil coming down sti'eani showed that it was 
 still risiui,'. I ohserved anionic othei' drift-stutV a jiieceof sod twenty feet scpiai'e. upheld hytlie 
 hiioyancy ol the willow roots itcontained. A( half past 'i we reaclieil a. tishiiii;- .illaKc sit- 
 uated on a 'gravel lieach at tlm lower end of a larjje island in the riser. Here 1 nu't several 
 natives whom I saw at the villai^e of lIni-iio(;-a-lnk-ta in jssi. ;iiid I induced three of them 
 to accompany "ur [larty. The lather of the hiicks. a, ;i;ray-liaii'ed Indian, informed me of the 
 dirticidties we would experience in reachinj^ the headwatei's of the river, .s.-iyiiiK that the 
 natives never .■ittem|(teil to carry their hoats hitcher than a place which he descrihetl as heinjr 
 peil'cclly im|i.iss;ilile with l)o,ils. ()pposite this vil!au;e ;^ liranch of the I'iver Hows in at such 
 an am;le as to form a very danj^erous whirlpool. Our whole expedition wimld douhiless have 
 sulfered wreck here had not, the natives warned ns to keep close to the otliei- shore. Diirinnj 
 very ;creat fi-eshets the Indians say tli.at this v.'hirlpool hecomes exceedinf.cly dau<.(ei'ous, and 
 that lar^e trees are drawn out of si^^ht when caut,f|it within its vortex. 
 
 The tiinher alon>; the river hanks in this locality a^ain heconies plentiful, and for loiijj; dis- 
 tances forests of spruct*, pine, and larch extend fioni the water's edj^e to the mountains. Tlii' 
 course of tlii^ stream here is. generally speaking, to the southeast until it reaches a spur <it a 
 I'an^e of mountains treudinjj to the southwest, tvhei'e it turns shai'ply to the northeast and so 
 continue.s until turnc^d to the e.-istward apvin by the raujjfe of mountains which form the north- 
 ern houudiiry of the Kowak Valley. 
 
 When we reached the mountains on the .south si(h' of the valley ami turned towards the 
 nortlu'iist, the short's of tlio stream suddenly contracted from four hundred and tifty to two hun- 
 dred yards, and the current increased from four to seven knots. We put on one hundred pounds 
 of steam, and with the assistance of the Indians jiaddliut; their hoats were harely ahle to stem 
 the current. The shores on both sides were clothed with a ilense ^.jrowth of willow and small 
 sjirnce, and were iierfectly ini)ias.sahl(>. so that we couhl not resort to towiiif^. Toward ■( 
 o'(dock the sun hroke throufj;li the I'ain clouds for a short time, drying our wet clothinj,' and 
 (..imp outlit, which had lieen soaked continually for three days. Toward Id o'clock we reached 
 
(MtUIHK OK THK STKAMKK CORWIN. 29 
 
 ft part of th«< rivtir wlioro it is iliviiU'il iiil<> tlnoc pintN. iiiul Iikih lit<n« oh miiny iHlmulH were 
 fitdiid. Oil lui iHluiKl wliicli WD i'ohcIuhI iilMnit II p. m. wi> ilincovfrtxl two Iiidiiiii woiiicii, with 
 tlii'ct* (■liililmi, HWiiitiii^tlii^ I'xpoctcii run of salinnii. 'riuir IniMliitinlH wore ivwuy in tlio mount- 
 aiii.s hunting (Iri'r, uml IId' wonicn iiml ciiildri'ii liiid liri'ii sulisistinK lor days on llic yo'in^ 
 HliootN of tint willows growing nciir tlu< rivri' Ixuiks. W'f ^;av't< tlicin li t'niMt in tlm wity of pmi- 
 nncjin. hard bread, and lea. and when we tiidshcd liy i picsfnt of a snuill ipwintity ot° toliacco 
 Iht'ir /i^ratilndr sccnit'ii to lie lii-yond cxjircssioii. 
 
 'I'lic skin lioat was ludnudcil Ihtc and -^'Vcral wrak placfs in her liollum iTpaircd liy tin- 
 wtiincn. Tin-y also n'|)aii('d lim hoots ol' thn |.">rty wInU' wi« were asleep. We ohseived with 
 eacii tiay'sadvanre a h)Worin>? of the tein]ieratnr(>o!' tho rivur wiilttr, muHed no douht iiy nuni- 
 her's of small Irilmlary >iti"eains, fed hy tlie niellin^ snoiv and ice in the piounlains. In IImh 
 conneelion il may lie of interest to note that many small slreaui." tlowini; iiilo the Kowak from 
 the mountains, which are at the pn'soiit time rnneli Inwov in tum|«i.'!iiif I'l.in ihe i iver water, 
 <io not free/e during the winter on account of tint fai^t that they are fed hy springs whose tern- 
 perulure never p'ls sullicii'nily low to freeze. [ couhl not help hut think that lhe.se streams, 
 home of whi(di I fonml contained from two to two and a half fathoms water, would afl'ord 
 excellent facilities foi- laying ni> !io,us useil liy future explorers or trailers on this river. 
 
 < >n July III, after leavin^f a small supply nf provision.', with t he Indian women, we pushed 
 ahead up sti'eam, and not withstanding^ the fact that the launch was urj^ed to her fidl capacity, 
 the cui'i'ent liecameso stronj4;as \\v advanced th.at hut indiil'erent proj;re,-.s was made. A short 
 while aftei' leavinj^ camp we came to a part of the river wln-re it suddenly widens and forms a 
 kind of lake, ahoul !ialf a mile in diamel^>r. The water, separaleii into many small cliannelH 
 liy sauil antl >;rav( I hars, hecanie ipute shoal; hut we uiauap'd tti K('t the launtdi thniiij,di liy 
 f(('tti\)H ovcrhoanl and towing? her over tho worst parts. Whenever opportunity olVei'ed, towiiij; 
 alonw shore was resorted to, hut on account of the prevailing ImhIi water the heaidies were .-ill 
 sulimerjfed, leaving no place (o walk alc.n;j; Ihe hanks, 'i'o jidd to our disconifiri't we were in 
 constant danger of heinjir swaniiM'cl hy lloatinv; trees, which we frecpiently encountered. Their 
 pi'o>j;ress wiis so rapid and yet so imperce|itilile that it reipiired the utmost caulioii to avoid 
 them. Prohahly in no way can the stren><tli of the current he hetter understood Ihiui liy 
 watchinj; Ihe pron'ress of one of llie.se trees down stream. .At lirst it appears as u mere speck 
 on the surface of the river, seenun^ly cpiite stationary; then, as it reaches t he intluence of some 
 eddy, its course is chauf^ed and it shoots directly across the stream until il hrinj^s up with a 
 tremendous crash iiji;ainst. the opposite hank. .Hei'e it will remain an olistacle to naviijalion 
 until some future freshet tears its clinging r(Nits from the shore ami sen<ls it tetirinK on its 
 <|owiiward course a;j;ain. Sometinu'S it ha[i|iens that a hir^e tTci- with roots tilled with eartli, 
 and looking •'!>' i' hut rerenlly fallen, will n'roiind on some >;;i'a\ el hed in miii-str'eam. The top 
 swin;4;s slowly down stream and Ihe water pours in a cataract over the roots. In ;i moment 
 the loose earth IS washed away, thestronj^. pliant hi-aindies. home down liy the^jiant j^rasp of 
 the river, hend and hreak;iind when at last the tree shakes oil' this tirrihie <,'iip ami rises to 
 I he sni'f::re t here remains only a whiti'iied linj^er of veuf^eance. which points .sadly at t he mur- 
 deler as he flees t<i the sea. 
 
 Now the river contracts its lied to on(» hundreil and lifty yards in width and runs directly 
 under I he shallow of the mountains formin^j; its northern houndary. 'i'he slioies are rocky ami 
 the sides of the mountains are moss-covered to their tops. Forests of spi'uce. |iine, and hirch 
 ji;ive to the scene an air of jieaceful repose, more in accord with the character of a New Kn^land 
 landscape than isp'uerall.v looked for within the .\rctic Zone. 
 
 The ;i;eneral trend of the mountains is still e.ast and west, and the course of therivei', although 
 exceedingly tortuous, follows Ihe same fr(>||i>|';i| direction. The mountains which hound the 
 Kowak Valh^v on tin* soutli are alioiit ten nnles away at this point, iind now ho^in to assume a 
 more delinite sha]ie and direction. Their i;eneral direction hein;.; southwest .-ind northeast, the 
 two rauKcs rapidly coiiverj^e. and at :i point far ahead seem to almost join. To-day wi' pa.ssed 
 two niontlis of tho E-yo^f-a-lok-tak, or Rocky River, and it is evidently a stream of sonn* coii- 
 sideralile size, as its rours<> could he traced for a lont; distance to the iioi'th wai'il, and its delta 
 ■was two or tlirvo miles long. In this vicinity t liu cyuatry lying botweou tUy Kvwak and Noiituk 
 
80 rRUIHK (»K TIIIO HTKAMKIl COllWIN. 
 
 Uivi-i-H is very iiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiu.s, iiiul tlic iiulivcs uhmiui' iiic lliat \\wiv iirr Iiii'k« iniiiilK.'i-H of vfiy 
 (lu«>|i liikcH itiiil Niimll rivt'iu 
 
 .' iiMiii;; (III) liiiiiMM' olmrrvi'il imii- iittt'iitinii liitM Itrfii litti'ui'tt'il tn lai'Ki' Ki'"V**H o|' (lu' Miilni 
 ul' (iili>u<l. 
 
 Muiiy ilfM-rtcil wiiiti r villii^cH wcir iiliNt'i'vi'il in IhiN n<Ki"». ami now ami lln n we ralili 
 hIkIiI of a tail jioln, JM-ariuK n llullrrini; |ii*iiiiuiit ol' hoimo Kaily roloinl cjotli, niarkin;^ tlicKi'uvn 
 of Hoini' <ii'|iarlfil liravc 
 
 Tint niinilN'i-of iHliiiiilH incrt'UHt'daN wi; ailvaiiciMl, and lli('i|t>|itli of wut*>r wiiM^ri^atly ijiniin- 
 islii'il hy ItcinK "livitlccl into no many cliannfls. We were coiniwllt'il lo lake tim lai«fsl rlianml 
 in onlrr to avoiil ^cttinK usiiorr. an luriili'iil wliicli wr liail l)ylliiH liini> It'ainol to ilicail. 
 Tim nioinrnl tlic laiincli K>'"*<*i'lfil wt> lost all conti-ol of hor niovitincntN: hIio ){ciiri-ally Hwnn>; 
 ai'onml liroailHJili' to tli<< rnrt'cnl ami then lay oviw on lici' licani-cnds. It of|i<ii n-(|iiiri'<l two 
 or llii't'f lioni's of the most I'ati^ninK woi-k, dnriiiK wliicli tlii> wliolr jiarty would lie wit finm 
 
 iluad to I'ooi in ilii' it y iV.iti i', U, rXtrii ati- Ihm fioiii tlii^ M.wWwiirij |<.,>.i)i.in 
 
 'I'lif Indiaim iid'oinuid m*- tluit Licntrmint Stoiu'y al)andonfd his lanncli mncli fnitln rdown 
 Hti't'ain last year, lint I'cali/.iiiK Hie iniporlancr of ki'r|iinK III*- pai'ly undivided us lon^ ns jMissililt', 
 1 dftci iniiii'd to |insli thn lanncli as fuc as she could possilily ^o, trusting; to fntut'c rains to ;;ct. 
 iivr down a^ain. 
 
 Toward !t p. m. wc cincrKcfi fi-oin a dcMwIy wooded Itcnd ol the river into a reach trend- 
 ing lo the southeast, and lieheld a low rau^e of mountains hearing south and aliuut twenty 
 miles distant. The sun had hcen ohscurcd all day and the rain had fallen with a steady per- 
 HiHtt>iict< winch threateneil either to reduce us to pulp or drive us mad. Now, however, tint 
 weather cleared, the ruKKed. storni-wnrn clouds rolled slowly away, and the sun Imrsl forth, 
 causing Ihesomlier landscape to lilossom into life. < Mi the mountains the moss lay in patches 
 of red, lirowii, and ifi'iiy. and hclnw it lin* forestH of spriUM* were tnruin>{ from ^reeii to liliie, 
 from lilne to pur|ile, and soon would now lie hlack. The river, which a moment hefore had 
 Hci-med a turliid. mmlily torrent, touched liy the sunli^hl, liecame llaiuedike in its radiance, 
 and, like a vast mirroi' frami'd with tlowers, reflected the snn-kisseil liei>;hts, and darkenin;; 
 kIciis with truthful impartiality. A dyiii); dulphin assumes the colors of the rainliow; so dies 
 a summer day in the land of the midnight sun. 
 
 At (la. III., .July 11, we were.a^fain under way and stiii;;;;lin;,' slowly ahead ii^jiiiist the strong; 
 I'urrent. |{y !i a. iii. we reached a sei'ies of ro'ky lilulfs rnmiiiij; in on the river from the mount- 
 uins on our left. I(er<t tint suiicuiniMint lonKenou;;li for me top't an observation, and ti.\ed the 
 position approximately as latitude (Hi ,"i I' N.. lon>;itude I "iii vM' W. The river here is aliout two 
 
 hundred yards wide iiikI liiled with ^(ravel heds in every direction. The shores are i ky and the 
 
 undergrowth reaches the water's (<dj{e. The course of the stream was j^eiierally to the east- 
 southeast liy compass. Several times to-d,iy we were compelleil to haul the launch past siilf 
 port ions <if the current, and we had lon^ since slopjied towin;>; the skin Imat. it liein^^ found 
 more advantaKcons to allow the Indians tci k*'* '' "I' ''^ tl"'.V J^aw lit. liy •.' p. m. we <ame in 
 si;;ht of an exceedin;^ly rn^^j^cd ramre of mountains, formin;,' a spur of t he lioumlai'y ram.;e on 
 onr left, and hidilen until then liy the foot-hills alon^ the river. I judged the hei;;lit of these 
 mountains t<i lie twenty-tive hundred to three thousand feet; lint I hey .seemed at lirst sii(lit 
 much liiKlicr on account of tierce precipitous formations. 
 
 VVe oliserved many fresh si^ns of hear, porcupine, and deer aloni,' the river li.iiiks. and I he 
 natives informed me that <hos(^ animals were very plentiful in the iiiciuntains in this rey;ion. 
 Diirinu: (he colder weathei' of the winter months the deer miujrate farther to the northeast. 
 .\liont 1 p. III. the expedition reached a very narrow portion of the river, where the shores were 
 composed of almost perpendicular musses of conj^loiiierate rock, and the liecl of the stream was 
 Ntrewii with hnj^e liowldei's. worn smooth and round liy erosion. 
 
 Tlie current, at this |ioinl was trememlous. ami it was only after about two hours" hard 
 .steaming,', and with all hands pullinj^nn the tow-line, that we jj;ot the launch thi-oui,di and into 
 a. somewhat e.asier portion of the river. ,\ mile or two farther u|i stream ami we reacdied 
 am itlier narrow bend, and here the rocks reached entirely across the stream, leavin;^ only small 
 openings, through which tho watur fvrcx'(l ityolf with terribly vclucity. Wu stoppwl and made 
 
CIllUHK OK THK HTKAMKIt (OUVVIN, 31 
 
 H riM'oiiiiaiHKaiict', miil Hucrrfdrd in limliiiK a |iiiM>«iigi<, throu^li wliii'li lli)< Mkiii \hm\{ wiin IIthI 
 iiitiilt'il up: tlii'ii, <li'ii|)|>iiiK It liiiiMliivvii III till' liiiiiii'li, itll of (III* piirty, with tliiM'Xi-i>|)tiiiii of ruiir 
 svliii ri'iiiiiiiii'il ill tilt' laiiiicli, i'lup|>r<! on to it anil iM'^aii to liaiil awity an wi' ilaslinl at tlir pain- 
 Ha^i'willi Mil puiwuls of sit'ani III! t|ii< ImiliT. '!'Im> pasna^i' wiin ri'aciii'il. llu' lannrli plnii^itil 
 lii'i- liiiwH (li'i'p into tliK watiT, ami lii<> iii'xt iiinini'iit wmilil iiavi' Iicimi salVly tlii'uuKli. wlii'ii tlio 
 liiii* lir<iki> with a twan^. ami sIik lic^aii siuwly lint Hiircly to K'* aslciii. Sin- Htrnck a nick 
 witli a wlii'i'l ami it slnppfil U>v a imiimMit, ami in that innini'iit tiir Htniii); ciirit'iit swept licr 
 lii'iiailHiilf nil III a lui^^it I'liiim! liuwIiItT, ami I tlinuKlit nIh- nmhiIiI Im' rt'i'tainjy lust. Slii' wt-iit 
 <iv('i' nil licr licani-cmlM, llicrt- was a ninnii'iit nf suHp(4iHi<, ami llu* ni'xt sIm wmh hvvi'|iI nvcr liy 
 till' water ami went ilril'tiiiK iluwii Htream at lliti rati* of ten inileH |iei- lidiir. 
 
 Till' ImliaiiH liail alianilmieil tlieir Imat in llie mean lime ami ran ilnwn lieinw iis In remler 
 any pusHilile aH.siHtaiire, anil we hhuii pit a line wliirii they threw us ami lianleil in ali>iiKsi<l*< 
 (he Hliiiro to repair ilainiiKeH. Kurtniiately iin Heriniis injury was sustaineil. Inil we ilecided nut 
 to i i:<k the iaiini'li aKalii. especially as the Indians inl'iirnied nie tiial with each day's clear 
 weather the river would ^rn down very rapidly, and It would lie ini|iossilile to p't the launch 
 ihnrii later, even if wu suecreeded in ^''tlinK I"''' "/' ""W. 
 
 We were at this time one day's journey rrniii the hijjjliest point reached liy the Stoney 
 expedition in |hs|. and after holdiiif^ a consultation I decided to leave the launch here in cliarpt 
 of Mr. 'rowiisend, who would use her as he tliou;;lil liest in making it ciillectioii of specimens 
 iif natui'al history, and push ahead with the Indians in the skin Imal. Up to this lime tint 
 ti.x|M>ilili'iii had lieeii pushed ahead so rapidly thai Mr. Town.send had had V' little opporlii- 
 nily fo,' proseculiiiK llie work of iiinkiii^^a collection, and at his Huyj^estjon I decided, as lieforo 
 Htali'il,tii leave him herewith I he launch. This necessitated I he detent ion of Marsh ami l.<i'wiH 
 also with the launch, as Mr. Towiisend would reipiire their assistance in handling her. 
 
 We spent the reiiiainiler of I he day inseleclinj; such articles of camp outlit and snpplieH 
 as were necessary for our lri|i, and loaded the skin hoat pi'eparatory t" an early start next 
 iiiornin^. 
 
 The morniiiK <>f July I"..' opened clear and liri^^hl, and. after leaving directions with Mr. 
 Townsend in regard to ilmppiu^ the launch down stream in ca.se the walei' lie^an to shoal, we 
 hade K' l-liye to the lauiic)i and Htarted on our way in the skin Imat. 
 
 With the tii'st si^iis of day on .Inly I'i we started froiu the launch with the skin lioiil, 
 which 1 naiued the /'imicrr. ami .soon a lieiid of the river hid the remainder of the party from 
 our Hi^ht. We had, for provisions to last twenty days, two Imxes pcinniican, one liox tc-i, and 
 thirty pounds of hard liread, and, not withstanding the fad that we laliored incessantly from 
 fourteen III sixteen hours jier day, there was never a lime on the eiitii'e trip when we really 
 siilVercd from liiiii^ei'. (iamewas aliuiidanl. and the lisli (also plentiful and easily ciu^hl) 
 were delicious. Alonj^the lianksof the river lierries j;rew in the greatest profusion, and our 
 daily hill of fare was as varied as one could wish. 
 
 Soon lifter leaving the launch we entei-ed .'i long reach of the river, !iliiiost choked with huge 
 liowlders of cojigloineiiite rock, and the current liecaiiie so strong that it reipiired the united 
 etTorlsof the cut ire party to haul the skin lioat through. The depth of water no w In 'le exceeded 
 six feel, and the Indians informed nie that the river was falling with each day's line wcilher. 
 'I'he valley is not more than eight miles wide here, and the stream is rapidly alVeclcd liy rains, 
 which swell the mounlaiu streams tlowiiig into it. At the head of these rapids the river is again 
 divided into sevei'id channel-ways, and 1 oliserved a river llowing in from the south. The 
 Indian name is the ('hok-way-chok. having .efereiice to the rapiil cnrreiil. The jimct ion of this 
 stream with the Kowak is called the P;ili. and the river itself has lieen mistakenly called liy 
 this name. This is the only river of any size Mowing into the Kowak from the .south, and the 
 Indians inform me that at one time couiinunical ion was had with ' iie Ko-you-kuk liy mcjins of 
 u short poi'lage connecting its headwaters with a triliutary of the lalterstre.ini. Inil latterly it 
 has fallen into disu.se and another iind ciisiei- route pursued. 
 
 Our tirst days work ended at H p. m., when, worn out l)your long tramp. wec,im]ii'i| for the 
 night on a level lniidi';i plain. Fortunately tli" mosipiiloes were not t ronlilesome. and soon wo 
 sat around a hlazing lire, smuking very comfurlalily and on terms of perfect equality. 
 
32 CRUISE OP THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 Tlio width of tlu! riven' (Inriiij; tli(^ day whs from Iwoliundrcd totwolniiidrcdaiid fifty yards, 
 Tiio Hii()r(\s Winn* K'''i'''''dly low, (^\(•^•l)t wiicii' rid^i's <'I(i,sho(1 the .strcniii, foriiiing stfcp rocl<y 
 haiilis. Tiic l)"/d of tiic strcaiii is iiioslly fi;i'avt'i in tills locality. 
 
 After a sound ni>;lit's sici']) on tin' soft moss of the tundra we jrot away at an early hoiir, 
 so as to taki; advantage of tln^ eool air of tin* morning. Un fine days tin^ tlierniometer ranfj;es 
 from soventy-fivo t(j eighty (h'>i:rees in tlie shade. By noon we espied tlie smoke of an Indian 
 encainiiineut on an islainl aliead. With renewed efforts the Indians walked away, often up 
 to tlieii' waists in the ice cold water, and in an liour we ri'aehed tiie islaud an<l found ii collec- 
 tion of suTnmer liousesuiid some half-dozen miserably clad natives, waiting i'or lliecxpecled lun 
 of salmon. 
 
 They expressed no groat surpi'istt liy their actions, hut wi'ut aliout their work .seemingly 
 (piite oblivious of our presence. After we landed, however, and niaile a few presents, their 
 iiiitural curiosity ovei'canm all other scru]>les and all crowded around nie, anxious for a good 
 look at the white man. At this ])hice I found a record left by J>ieutenant Stoney, U. K. N., in 
 ISSf, giving an account of a laki^ visited by him and his jjarty, bearing north and di.stant about 
 eleven miles from the river. A small stream, which is a braiudi of the inlet to the lake, called 
 Nud-i'e-wok by tlie natives, flows into the Kowak opposite the village. This was the highest 
 ]»oint I'eached by Stoney in ISS-t. After taking a copy of this I'ecord. 1 replaced it where 1 found 
 it. accompanied by a record of my visit. 
 
 The Indians at this place informed me that in live days we would reach the cataracts, where 
 boat navigation ceases, and where it is customary to cache their boats and wait until snow falls 
 to proceed farther into the interior. 
 
 In actual distance this village is about three-cpiarlcrsof tluMlistance Ironi the mouth of tlu^ 
 riser to its headwaters. };>etwet>ii usand Lake Car-loog-ah-look-tah theri^ lies a part of the river 
 which the liKlians informed me was impassa-blt^ with boats. 
 
 At •', o'clock, July 14, wo started from the Indian village, soon after reacdiing a part of 
 the river where the channel was free fi-om i-ocks; but the shores along which we had to tow the 
 boat were fringed with bowlders and it was tediously slow w<u'k to get the frail alfair past them 
 without tearing lier to jjieces. Paddling against the current was utterly iini»ossible with a boat 
 iis large ;.s ours, and when the natui'e of the banks is siudi that we cannot tow. Ul'e boat is pro- 
 pelled by ■•poling." The Indians stand well in the bow of the boat and witli^)les eight to ten 
 feet long shove her step by ste)) against the curriMit'. Considerable skill has to lie shown in this 
 kind of work, and often it hajipeiis that a lireaking poh^ or careless ino\'enieiit of luii' of tlii' party 
 will lie the menus of losing all control of the boat. At sueli times all bands plunge overboard 
 the moment the boat drifts in siioal water ami hold her head upstream until a. fresh start can 
 he made. 
 
 With tjie continued line weather of the la.st few days the river suh.sided greatly and became 
 beautifully cieaj-. Kisli can be sei weiity or thirty yards distant as they lie in the bottom of 
 deej) pools. The cun'ent averageil eight knots in this portion of the river. Many islands were 
 passed during this and thi> .-succeeding day. and the shores of tlu' river were in some places two 
 miles apart. The mountains here run almost parallel, nearly northeast and southwest, and are 
 from two thousand to three thousami feet high. Among tlu^ timber the bircli was observeil to 
 be more c(jnspicuoiis anil of l.-irger growth tliau farther down stream. Many liuiian houses 
 were seen in this vicinity, but no natives, as they are either in the nKUintains hunting deer or 
 at the fishing villages. A delicious trout is found in the small tributary streams which is not 
 seen elsewhere on the river. Following is a. descri])tion: 
 
 Hack dusky gi-einii.sli, shading to lilac. Sides lilac, rosy spotted. Under parts white. 
 Dorsal tin an<l tail dusky gray; others rosy. Native name, Ai'-ko-luk-])uk. 
 
 This tish and the grayling, which is abuudiint everywluRro above the rapids, take the hook 
 readily. 
 
 With the subsiding of the water from the gravel hoaches good walking was aft'orded the 
 jiarty and the progress of tlio e.\])odition was in consecpuMiee inucli more rajiid. The tenipi'va- 
 turo of tho air increased as we advanced until the tlierniometer registered as high as uinety-six 
 
H. Ex. 153,19 ■ 
 
 GAME IN THE ARCTIC. 
 
 EMl'EROR GEESE. 
 
CRUISE OF THE STEAMEU CORWIN. 
 
 33 
 
 iloifii'o.s in tlu! sliiido iiiid st'ldom fell hulow eighty-oiglit dugroua during tlio duy, while that of 
 the wator rtinged fnun tliivty-Hix to forty-two degi'oea. 
 
 I nevor saw nu'ii work more faithfully Mian did these natives. I left the entire manage, 
 meat of the party to Taii-tah-rok and it was seldom he failed to get less than fourteen hours' 
 work out of them. While with the launch I got into several bad scrai)es by following the advice 
 of tlif Indians, who never senn\ed to realize that the launch could not !>ehan<Ued as easily as one 
 of their own boats; but it is really nnirvelous what judgment iind skill are shown by them in 
 handling the skin boat, and I am convinced that they acc(Mni)lished more than twice as much 
 as would have been accoTuplished by less experienced men in this peculiar style of navigation. 
 
 The character of the river changes, very little as we slowly advance. Ijow green shores, 
 are fringed by a gravel beach which gradually widens as we approach a bend until it forms a 
 spit extending almost across the stream, then narrows again until it disappears (futirely. and we 
 have to cross the river to get a place to walk again. A diagram will probably better show the 
 formation of the beaches: 
 
 ►0: 
 
 When it l)econies necessary to cross the river the boat is hauled alongside the bank, and 
 the Indians carefully shake all the sand from their feet a.n<l stej) into her. They gra.sj) their 
 paddles, take a (|uick look down stream to note the position of any rocks, and with a short cry 
 of preparation shove otf. In a nionn^nt th(> strong current strikes the light boat an<l bears her 
 off like a leaf. The paddles, descending in perfect unison and with savage earnestness, sent! the 
 water away in circling (sddiesastiu'u. It is quick, sharp work, and although the river was seldom 
 more than one hundred yards wide at this point, we were often carried twice that distance^ down 
 stream y)efo7-e reaching the opposite bank. When the water is suthciently shoal, as frequently 
 happens during tliis part of the journey, the i)addles are throw:; aside and poling is resorted to. 
 In (uther case the Indians stiiiid well forward and so bring the boat down by the head, as in 
 this way they (;aii hold her head in any direction with gnsater ease than if she wore on an even 
 keel. 
 
 Toward -t o'clock v/e passed the junction of the Rowak with a river flowing in from the north, 
 called by the natives Arko-.sher-wak, or Beaver River. The mouth of this stream was about 
 .seventy-five yards wide, and there were from five to .seven feet of water nearly all tlu* way across. 
 This forms tlu? outlet to Lake Meiu^-kok-o-shah of the natives, and is oni' of the i)rincii)al feed- 
 ers of the Kowak. At this jioint the coxirse of the Kowak took us more towards the south and 
 ncai'cd the mountains forming the watershed between it and the Ko-you-kuk River, and the 
 topogi'ajjhy of tlu* country would indicate that somewhere in this vicinity the cour.ses of the 
 two streams are nearly parallel and the distance between them not over sixty miles. 
 
 Game was found in the greatest abundance in this locality. At nearly every bend of the 
 I'iver, and especially whert* small willow islands were seen, we came u])on large flocks of half- 
 grown gee.se, whose awkward efforts to escape were ludicrous in the extreme. Sometimes we 
 surprised a flock in mid-sti'eam. and they would attempt to evade us by diving. Being as yet 
 not fully fledged, this was not always successful, and they would only be able to put their heads 
 under water, nnd in this position would fall easy victims to the Indians. 
 
 During the day (July U>) we passed many small ti-ibutary streams flowing into the Kowak, 
 and the natives assured me tliat the valley was full of many small lakes, from whicli these 
 streams flowed. 
 
 The shores of the stream are generally low in this region, and the heavy timber is on the 
 sides of the mountains, and only approaches the river Avhere ridges run in on the stream from 
 the footlulls. We experienced some difiBculty in finding suitable camping places on account of 
 H. Ex. 153 5 
 
84 CRUISE OF THK STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 the evcr-prespnt willow thickets, which hern constituted almost ontircly tho vegetation ahjiiy 
 the hanks. 
 
 On July K) we passed the lJnK-ee-let-ar->j;eeak River of the natives, wliich resenihled very 
 much in size and voluino the Arko-sher-wak already mentioned. Like the hitter river, it Hows 
 in from the north, and is the outlet of Lake Nor-to-rok-toe, which is the socoad lake in point 
 of size of the four lar><i' lakes fornnnf^ the sources of the Kowak. 
 
 The weather continued fair and intensely hot. The mo.s([ui toes wore simply terrific, and 
 our lives were a burden to us altogether until we emerged from the low country and readied a 
 portion of the river iiudosed ])y high blufT hanks. At (i.3() the IniUans stopped as if at a signal, 
 and Tah-tah-rok called luy attention to a low rumbling noise ahead. I thought at fir.st it whs 
 thunder, but its steady sound, and the fact that thunder is .seldom heard in these latitudes, 
 convinced me that it was falling water. We pushed ahead, and my feelings can scarcely be 
 imagined when, at H o'clock, we rounded a high, rocky bluff and came suddeidy in sight of a 
 seething mass of white water bursting its way through a gorge composed of perpendicidar 
 masses of slaty rock two liundi-ed to three hundred feet high, surmounted by a forest of spruce 
 and birch. The ciiannei was completely cliokt^d with shari)-pointed rocks, past which the 
 water Hew with frightful velocity, breaking itself into mimic cascades of foam and spray. 
 
 The Indians, as if sharing in my ])leasure, set up a wild chant which echoed along the 
 steep banks, and caused hundreds of gulls nesting in the crevices of tlie rocks to leave their 
 perches and witii loud discordant cries to circle i-ound our heads. 
 
 The head of boat navigation had been reached, just twelve days from the mouth of the river. 
 
 Selecting a high dry spot on the bank just below the gorge, we went into camp, and soon 
 my party, worn out. witli excitement ami hard woi'k. fell into a deep sh^e]). 
 
 The next day we spent in various ways. The Inilians were mending their much-worn 
 boots, while I, accompanied by Tah-tah-i'ok, made a reconnaissance of the gorge, with a view of 
 asvei ttiiiiliig tho possibility of g^Hinjr our boat through. 1 wa:' satisfied that it would be impos- 
 sible to walk to the head of the river and carry my instruments and necessary articles of camp 
 outfit, anil my oidy hope of reaching Lake Car-loog-ah-look-tah was to get the boat pa.st these 
 rapids. We examini'd a jtor-tage formerly used liy the natives to get past the cataract; but it 
 was so overgrown with willows as to make it impa-ssable even if we had been able to carry a 
 boat as large as ours so far as this route necessitated. We then returned to the banks of the 
 gorge and walked along cart^fully examining the rai)ids, ^^ hich were about a mile long. While 
 1 sat on the high bayks watching the foaming torrent below I suddeidy observed a tree Hoating 
 down the goi'gi?. Sometimes Ijoriie along in the force of the (Uirrent, and again held almost 
 stationary in the(>ddiesof the pools, it gradually nearod tne rock-choked entrancf^ of the gorge. 
 I followed its course with the interest born of a sudden roMilve. TaIi-tah-rok"s (puck mind was 
 not slow to gi'asp the situation, for when the tree I'oached the cataract and lodged between two 
 rocks he simjjly smileil and said, "(iood.'' 
 
 My nund was now made uj) as to the manner in which we must get the boat above the 
 gorge: I would divide the pai'ty, sending 'i'ah-tah-rok and two men above the rapids to build a 
 raft of small trees, v.hich they would set adrift and Hoat down to us. With these trees a tem- 
 porary bridge could be constructed over the rocks and we would be thus enabled to haul the 
 bo-t through. Tah-tah-rok understood readily the ]>laii 1 proposed, and we returned to camp, 
 where he made my wishes known to the rest of the ]iarty, and two of them immediately .set out 
 through the woods toward the liead of the gorge. It was then late in the afternoon, and as 
 nothing further could be done in the way of advance until we had tlie trees, I set the remainder 
 of tlic pai'ty at work arranging for iui early ^;tart the Vii^xt Tiioming. Our tow-lino tiad becfnne 
 so much worn that any sudden strain would he liable to break it. and I cut tlie roping off the 
 tent, which was (juite new, and from it made a line we could dejjend uj)on. Everything which 
 was not absolutely necessary was cadied lu-re, and the boat when loaded drew (mly fcmr inches. 
 
 After a sound nigld's sleep, we broke camj) early (m the morning of July 19, and with the 
 lightly loaded boat crossed the river and sto])ped at the entrance \<) the gorge. 
 
 Here the banks were perpendicular mas.ses of slaty rock, in tlie crevices of which, near the 
 
II Kx. 153, 4,) 1 
 
 HEAD OK HOAT NAVlCiA TION, KUWAK RIVER, ALASKA. 
 
CRUISK OF THE STKAMFR CORWIN. 85 
 
 fi»ji, 11 (Ii'ii8(> Rrowtli of liircli uiul willow liiul HpniiiK "!>• 'I'lu- ImmI of tliti Htroain wjw conipli'tcly 
 c'hokctl with roci<H of uliitt' foriniitioti. brolct'ii into ii tlioiiMumi irn'KiiI»iitit'H by frost mid ico. 
 Ho Hliiirp mid jiiK^cd were tlirsc projections that t)io slij^litt'st fontiict witli tlm .skin hoiit woidd 
 result in u liolc hein^ punclwd IhrouKh licr sides. 
 
 We liiid no; loiif^ to wait for Tuli-liih-roli, for hiirdiy iuul we Houured the bout in a i)rt)- 
 ti'cted pool mid clinihed np on a rock when we heard him and his two coinijaiiions shouting in 
 the jifor^e at no j^reat distance frotn tis. and almost immediately they eaine in si^ht anmiid a 
 liend, scrmnhlinjjf alon^; the face of the rocky shores and holding; on to a rnft of small Iokm. 
 When they reached the head of the cataract and fnrthor pro^resH aloiiK the liank.s was impos- 
 sible, the raft was hauled ashorw and the lo^s floated down to us one by one. Wo siu'cceded in 
 catching? a majority of them and made a kind of ways uiion the rocks, over which we hanlod 
 the hdiit. In order to do this we wore olili^ed to unload tho boat and transfer the c(;ntents to 
 a safe place up stream by means of a temponiry brid^o from rock to rock in tlie rapids. In 
 this maiinei'. step Ity step, we woi'ked our way slowly upwards, and had neai'ly reached a place 
 where we could load the boat and proceed as usual, when an accident occui'r<'d which nearly 
 proved fatal. 
 
 I had retiirne<l to the l)oat after a trij) uj) to the .spot whore we had deposited our outfit, and 
 was waiting for tlr.* rest of the jiarty to come iij), when 1 heard aliove the ro;ir of the cataract 
 a sudden cry of distress, and a moment afterward saw Tah-tah-rok stru(,'KlinK frantically in 
 the water. As he swept i)ast the rock upon which 1 was standinj;; one of the l>arty wlio had 
 run down and joined me assistcul mo in lifting one of tlie trees w(^ were nsin^i^, and toj^ethor we 
 threw it toward Tah-tah-rok, who fortunately caught it, and a moment afterward it swung 
 around ami jamim^d in between two rocks a little farther down stream. We hastened to his 
 assistance, and the whole party, coming up now, hauled him out of his dangerous i>ositi(>u. 
 Although but a few moments in the water, the poor fellow's hands and arms were cut in a 
 dozen places by the sharj) rocks, and ho was so much exhausted by his struggles that i decided 
 to stop and make a cup of hot tea before proceeding any farther. This wo did, and after band- 
 aging uj) his hands the boat was hauled up and loaded again, and we itroceeded on our way. 
 
 The gorge was about a mile long, with banks compos •(! of almost iierpendicular masses of 
 conglomerate rocks, varied now and then by steep sloping bluffs, mo.ss-covered and overgrown 
 with willow and birch trees. Tho river was hert> not over thirty yards wide, and, as might be 
 expected, the current tore through with tremendous force. Along the ba.se of the cliffs 
 detached and liroken bowlders afforded a precarious footing, ovei' whi(di we scrambled as best 
 wo might. It was often necessary to hold the boat aloiigsi<le one rock and allow the party 
 to go as far uj) as the l<<ngth of the tow-line would allow and then sheer her out info the mid- 
 dle of the stream, in order to round some particularly bad point, the jiarty iu the mean time 
 having .secured a firm foothold on another rock farther uj) stream. Fortunately our tow-line 
 proved ade(iuato to endure tho strain, and we at last emerged from the gorge and gazed once 
 more on low shores, clothed with tlio usual willow thickets, with occasional clumps of spruce 
 and birch trees. 
 
 All day we advanced rapidly, having a good beach to walk \ipon and finding conij)aratively 
 little cnri'ent to contend with. The temperature of the water was observal)ly lower, and it 
 seeme(l much cohh^r on ac<-ount of ibt^ heat of th(> sun. With the thermometer standing 
 steadily at ninety-four degr(>es in the shade, and with no time to rest, one could ring the 
 changes on a ))o])ular song iind sing "an f.r/)/o»'c/'".s lot is not a hapiiy one" with great feeling. 
 
 ,)ust before camping for theuightwo passed through a reach of fli(> riv<'r almost com- 
 pletely filled with rocks, and the boat suffered niiudi by cfnning in contact with them. The 
 banks wore composed of a loose red sandstone, which crumbled at the slightest touch, and the 
 water w^as tinged a deej) brownish I'od by the constant dropi)ing of portions of the bank into 
 the river. Distinct water marks could be seen high up the banks, showing that at times tho 
 river mu.st rise very high. 
 
 From the first gorge the course of tho river is very nearly north. Tho bends are less 
 
30 CKUISK OK THK HTKAMKlt (H)RWIN. 
 
 uliriipt, ami at H p. iii., when we ciimitcil, lli(< IniliuiiM |n>iiiltMl mil In iiif llic [KMiks of llu> iiiniint- 
 uiiiM 1111)1111(1 Ijivki' C'ui-looK-ali-l'H'k-tali, which lies iil Hit- hfiul of tin- rivdr. 
 
 At our tHMin hiilt ii liKlitt'fl iniitch wuh ciiroloHMly tlirowu down on tliu dry inowi of tho tun- 
 din, uml shnrlly iiI'liT IfuviiiK we saw il had scl liro Id the iidlaiiimalilo hIiiIT. Whfii W(«nl<>pp<'d 
 to cainp al iiIkIiI I clinilii'd a iii'igliiiuriiiK liill and saw Ihal lh<> llii' hail sinfad until il t'livrrt'd 
 acroH and acrt'H (»l' K>'<>iiiid. Nuwlion* in th« world prohahly will loivst, lircM »pn«ad ho (piickly 
 a5 Ih-rc, and I fell considcrulilc nnxicly to k'low where tins conlljiKiatiini would end. Koilii- 
 nately. however. thei-e wa^ no wind lo can'y the sparks, and hy lo p. in. the lire had liurned 
 itrtolf to water in all direct ions, and only a dense cloud of smoke remained to tell the story of 
 HO much havoc nwnle by a little careless act. When the fact that exjilorers ami others must 
 depend almost wholly on the cnuntry for food is taken into consideration, the imptirtance of 
 lieiiiK careful not to sel lire to one's larder will he apparent, Hiid over after that 1 never left a 
 camp until every s]taik of tire had heen e.\tinji;uishe(l. 
 
 Next morning when we >(ot under way the wind was fiom the north, and a i)«>ltiiig rain- 
 storm Ileal in our faces. Hy II o'clock we passed from the low country, and were once more 
 shut in liy hif^li abrupt banks. Here and there ru>;n;ed inas.ses of slaty rock, lifty to seventy- 
 tive feet hi^li. broken into iiian.v curious forms by frost, projected into the river. The river 
 at this point was not over twenty-live yards wide, lad the current was not nearly so strong 
 as in the Inwci' koI'K''' ''i'' blull's were bare of vegetation, except in s[iots where a sheltiered 
 leiljife ^ave a chance for the bright -colored moss to f^row. Thousands of mud nests made by 
 the swalh)W were obsei'veil as we walked alonjjf the rocky banks, and .sometiiin^s as we rounded 
 a projecting ledj.;e a perfect storm of sharp (pierulous cries would jj;reet us as thest' fjraccful 
 little birds (lew excitedly in and out of their curious little homes. 
 
 This ;;or^'e was about two and one-half miles lonj;. and its >;(<neral direction was east and 
 west through a rid.i;e running; back to the mountains to the north of the river. Toward noon 
 We passed out from bet ween the rocky shores of the yorj^e into a low country, bounded on all 
 sifles by mountains. At :! o'clock we passed through wliat was once a lake, but the stroii)^ 
 current of the river had broken through the banks, and now it is simply an enlaixement of tho 
 river, with a slioa! in the ceider, which will doubtlo88 become an islan<l in lime, and the identity 
 of the lake will be lost. 
 
 Our proj^re.ss was fntin this point oxciMMliiiKly slow. The water shoaled so ra|iidly and 
 thei-(( wi-re so many j^ravel bi^ds in the river that we were compelled to wade in the water and 
 partly pusii and partly pull our boat most of the time. The I'iiniccr had become by this time 
 so woi'u by constant hard usa;i;e t hat I he utmost care had to be taken not to let her strike a 
 rock or draj; heavily over the shoal jihuHis. 
 
 On July "vM the day became clear and bri>;ht, and after f^ettinjj: observations for lonj^itude 
 ■•Hid variations of the compass, we broke camp and bi'i^jin our day's work. Soon the river 
 bi^v-iau to shoMrl very rapidly, there bein^ in some places not more than a foot of water any- 
 wlau'e. The width of the stream was from one liundred to one hundred and twenty-five yards, 
 and the shores low, bjicked on both sides by mountains. The northern ran^e still preserve<l 
 its noi'theast (lii'ection. and at a point not far ahead stM'ined to terminate in a collection of 
 ru^^ifcd peaks. 
 
 Nearer the river banks on our left there were several remarkable looking;; mountains, 
 densely wooded fi'om base to summit. Tlie.se latter were not over lifteen hundred feet liiKh, 
 but bein^' entirely coven^d with timber, form a distinf,'uisliing feature of the landscape in this 
 locality. 
 
 Duriuijf the afternoon we reached tho junction of tho Kowak with a stream flowing from 
 the noi'tli. and tiie Indians informed me that this Wiis the outl(>t of Lake ("ar-looi^-ah-look-tah. 
 The mouth of the stream was sivty yards wide and contained from four to six foot of water, 
 being sonnnvhat wider aiut niiich deeper than the main stream at this point. We entered this 
 tributary and pushed ahead until we readied a jioint where the river is obstructed hy rai)ids, 
 and I stopjiod to rei'onnoiter. Opposite to us, on the right of the stream (ascending), tho banks 
 were composed of high conical sand bluffs, along the sides of which and in the intervoning liol- 
 
n 
 
 
 S 
 
 m 
 
 M 
 
 a 
 
 2 
 
ll.hx. I5J,49 
 
 
 
 
 ugged MIT •'^",; JtsjC 
 
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 y 
 
 ./f 
 
 
 /.#> 
 
 ,* "^ 
 
 Very Mountainous /^ 0:]^ 
 
 
 
 ) 
 
 or 
 
 :«" 
 
 ^ Astronomlritl St'i/iiiii 
 
 l.unri. 153"- 'JO' Wrst\ Apimximiili: 
 iiil. C7°- W' V. 
 
 VnlloyNLooKiiie 
 
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 \S\t. 
 
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 I ml 1(1 II 
 Wiiilrr Trillin 
 iiruunU thii lu'iul 
 iif llli- Ritcr. 
 
 . i^tmK*ilVAf^t (1- I ': 
 
CRDISB OF THE HTKAMEli C;()liWIN. 37 
 
 lows was u (Umiso j^rowMi of liiirh, spnict\ and willo\v, t\w latter oxtcMuliiif? to tlio wutora odgo 
 ami fonni'i^' an almost iiupciictrahlf tlii( kol. We climhcd this \nu\k and reacUod a high roll- 
 iii>( tundra |Uain st ret chintz away to the northwai.i to the foot of a iiij^ifi'd ranj^f of niountiiins 
 which (^oniph.'tt'ly hounded the horizon in that direi^tion. On tiie left the course of the stream 
 w'c had just left (!ou!d he traced hy a holt of (hirk ix^-vim tind)er, contrasting' stroiif,^!' witli the 
 li^ht lirown of the tundra moss, and ended at the foot o'' the mouidains. aliont six miles distant. 
 On the rif;ht the other liranch of the Kowak ct)uld l>e -seen winding off towifd the mountains 
 in tho southeast, and then turning to the north ajj^ain it was lost to sij^lit hehind the rolling' 
 hills of tlie plain ahead. 
 
 The Indians informtul me that the lak(^ coidd he seen fiom a slif^ht elevation of the jdain a 
 short distance ahead, and wo struck out across the tundra at once, and in a short time cliinhed 
 up tilt* sides of the hill and looked away toward the north. Foui" or fiv(« miles away, and .Mlniost 
 completely surroundiHl hy motinlains from twenty-tive hundred to three thousand feet liif,di, 
 the blue sparkling waters of the long-.sought lake bur.st upon my view. The sensations of 
 ))leasiire and trimn])h which took jiosscssion of me as I gazed upon its waters, now for the lirst 
 time seen hy a white man, ani])ly I'epaid me for tiie long, tedious journey. As the last rav;; of 
 the setting sun gi hied the rugged peaks and the shadows of ai>proa(diing night crept silently 
 upward, we turneil back toward our boat, and the Indians set up n wild cliantiHg "llung-lii- 
 hung-ay" of joy. 
 
 We cani])t*d on a level place at tlit( foot of the ra])ids and 'aatiled the boat out to get 
 thoroughly dry while we remained in the vicinity of tlie lake. 
 
 The distance traversed from the mouth of the river to this point was roughly ; .-ilimated at 
 tive hundred and twenty-tive miles. 
 
 Early next morning we left .air camp and. taking with us our blankets and my instru- 
 ments, we walktvl along the banks of the river toward the lake. Willi a good boat it would be 
 easy to get her througli the I'apid.-., but ours was in such a dilapidatecl condition thiil [ did not 
 think it advisalile to risk the chance of losing her by di'agging her o\er any more rocks t'lan 
 were absolutely necessary. 
 
 We reached Laki* Car-loog-ah-look-tah about two and a half hours iifter Icavin';- camii. 
 The walking was for the most ]>art good, being over the dry moss of the rolling pliiiii. In tin.' 
 ravines we struck small thickets of willow, liut by making circuits we were enabled b) avoid 
 them. When we i-eaclied tlie lake we made a temporary cani|) on the beach at the fuol of the 
 mountain not far from the outlet, and I began at once the \\ork of taking ob.'^er\ations, jilioto- 
 graphing, sketching, &c. 
 
 Indian reports had led me to believe that Lfike Car-loog-ah-look-tah was much larger than 
 it really is. It is ])robably no more than eight miles long by three miles wid(>. (hving to itiJ 
 piM'uliar shape and the limited means at my command, very exact measurements were not 
 obtained. 
 
 A diagram of the lake and immediate vicinity may l)e of service in understanding the fol 
 lowing brief description: 
 
 Along the southern side, extending from the spot marked ^ on the diagram, extending to 
 the eastward around the north shore, there was found a narrow strip of beach, composed of 
 white sand and variously colored pebbles. T attem])ted to walk around towai'd the west end of 
 the lake, but found it impossible on account of the dense growth of willows whicii extended to 
 the water's edge in tliis direction. With Tah-tah-rok and one other. Intlian I ascendeil the 
 mountains which liordered the southern sitle, and from this point obtained a magnificent view 
 of the entire lake and country in every direction. 
 
 All the northern conifene spread the deep green of their branches on the mountain slopes, 
 and the larch, the birch, and willow were massed in clusters of deep foliage, through which the 
 waters of the lake sparkled like a jewel. 
 
 The country to the northeast, north, and west was nothing but a series of short, detached, 
 and nigged mountain ranges and isolated peaks, some of which were still snow-covered. On 
 the south, west, aud north sides of the lake tlie mountains were at tlie water's edge. In some 
 
38 CRUISE OP THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 places, especially on th(» south side, tlic siih-s of tlic iiiouutuins iwljuccnt to the liiko liad hroken 
 (l(jwn, leaving hare jHTpciidicular cliil's of dark shity ruck oiio tliou.saiid feet high, wliilc on 
 the other side tlie tlu<'k moss grew almost to tlio summits. At a liuight of eighteou luuuht'd to 
 two thousand feet tliu ravines were morasses, through which we had to wade, up to our waists 
 in water and tiiick gi'.iss. to reacli tiie top. At the east end of tlie lake the country was h)W. 
 rolling tundra hind, tiirougii whicli tiie river (lowed to the soutiiwest. 
 
 Five islands were crowded togoth<n in the west end of the lake, and were covert'd witli si)nu'e 
 and willow trees. 
 
 Our point of observation was about half way <l()wn th(> lake on the south side. Here the 
 dirt's were almost pei'pendicuiar masses (»f granite, broken into numy peculiar forms by frost. 
 Ul)on one of tiiese cliil's I carved my name an<l the date of the arrival of the party at this jjoiut. 
 
 Opposite, a sand-s])it pro.jected into the lake from tiu^ north shore. With this single excej)- 
 tion, the beach on that side is an unbroken line of wliite sand, extending from the head to the 
 foot of the lake. On the soutii side two projecting points divide the sheet of water into three 
 almost ecpuil portions. 
 
 From our high position we could see that the lake contaii>ed no shoal lih-ices, except at the 
 mouth of the outlet. Tlie depth of watv'r must be very great, as we could not get bottom sound- 
 ing with a forty-fathom line. 
 
 When hunting around tliis lake during the winter the Indians ( loss to the north shore at 
 the point where the long .sand-spit projects into the water. A short walk along the beach to 
 the westward brings them to a place where the ascent of the mountains can be made, and they 
 reach the ridge along which they travel in oriler to get around Hie head of the river. In this 
 vicinity the deer are said to congregate in great numbers, and the dry i'iver-l)ed, tilled 'With 
 snow, att'ords a natural and easy means of capturing them. The exact sjuit where all signs of 
 the river end was pointed out to me l)y the Indian, and bore northwest distant about tifteen miles. 
 Between us and this place, however, lay the lake, and beyond it the mountains, which would be 
 utterly impassable situated as we were. 
 
 The Indian name Car-loog-ah-look-tah signifies Big Fish Lake, and has reference to the 
 immense tish which, according to Indian tradition, were once found in this lake. Tales are told 
 of canoes and venturesome hunters being bolted by these monsters, and one of my party 
 baited a hook, made of the antlers of a reindeer, with a goose, and attaching our tow-line 
 lie gravely threw it far out into the deej) water, and making the shore end of this novel 
 fishing-line fast to a stout tree he sat down and waited for some unwary tish to bite. Whether 
 the appetites of the monsters had been dulled by a previous feast of an entire deer (or maybe 
 a chance hunter), or whether, as I sus])ect. the size of the fish has been somewhat exaggerated 
 by mendacious historians, is a question which future iu(|uiry must settle, for, after renuiining 
 in the water all day and night, the tempting bait was hauled out and found not t(j have been 
 molested. Fishing i)rosccuted on a small scale, however, was eminently successful, and were 
 not this report inteniled as a plain statement of facts coming under my ol)servation, I would 
 hardly dare state* what the size of some of the trout we cai)tured wns found to be, for fear of 
 being suspected of exaggeration. By actual measurement, however, I found trout here from 
 three to three and a half feet in length, and I saw in the clear water sj)ecimens much larger than 
 the ones we were enabled to procure. Having no other means at hand, we captured ti;e fish by 
 firing a rifle shot ilirectly under them, and so were enabled to procure only those v.hieh 
 approached very close to the shore. The common salmon, trout, and other varieties seen in the 
 river were observed here also; but the large trout, the natives inform me, never leave the lake. 
 
 July 2'.i opened clear and bright, am! I siient the entire day in getting a set of observations 
 for determining the longitude, latitudes, and variations ot the comjiass at this point. Ecjual 
 altitude sights were also taken as a check on the chi-onometers. 
 
 Aprojjos of the chrononu'ter. it may be well to suggest the tlesirability of using a good 
 pocket-chronometer en e.Kpeditions of tliis character, instead of a regular .shi])'s chronometer. 
 In a country where walking is attended with such difiiculties. th(> chronometer formed the most 
 serious obstacle to rapid movements. Indeed, struggling through willow-thickets, wading 
 
CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 39 
 
 morasses, and clamberiiij? along tlie crinnliling precipitous mountain ridges, and at the same 
 time liolding a sliip'a chronometer with suflicient care to insure its accuracy, wouhl be simply 
 impossible. 
 
 Having completed the reconnaissance of the lake, we returned to our boat, and next morn- 
 ing set out for tlu' smaller branch of the liver iiy means of a shallow stream which leads from 
 the lake outlet almost across the low swampy land which lies between this river and the Kowak. 
 We made a short portage and reached the Kowak, up which we began to shove the Ijoat. The 
 river here was not over fifty yards wide and scarcely more than one foot deej) a;iywhere. All 
 day w<* pushed the boat up the shoal stream past the moutli of a small stream calleil the Kit- 
 chah-ee-yak, and did not rest until the lightened l)oat. drawing live inches, woulil no longer Hoat. 
 The river was now nothing but a shallow brawling l)ro(jk. tumlding down lioni l)('tween 
 the rugged mountains lying on the north side of the lake. From this ])oint we (ould see the 
 mountains running in an unbroken line from the vicinity of the head of Laki' Car-loog-ali- 
 look-tah in an ea.sterly direction, boumling the iiorizon, and showing no break tiirough which 
 a river could possibly flow. The Indians pointed out to me the ridge along which they travel 
 during the winter when u|)proaching the lake from the south. The sides of the mi)Ui\tains are 
 almost perpendicular masses of gray rugged rocks. Toward the southeast they di|) lowei' and 
 finally run off into rolling foothills. It is from there the natives approach the ridge. 
 
 The Kit-chah-ee-yak River, which Hows into the Kowak near the foot of Lake Car-loog-ah- 
 look-tali. drains a valley in the southeast which lies at right angles to tlie Kowak Valley, and 
 is the most noticeable, in fact the only, break in the mountain-bounded horizon. The natives 
 informed me that by crossing the ridgt^ which forms the northern boundary of the Kit-chah-ee- 
 yak one day's journey in winter brings them to the Ah-lash-ok River, which is a tribntai'y of 
 the Koy(mkuk. This is the route taken by the Kowak Indians when they wish to meet Uiose 
 o" the Koyoukuk in order to ti-ade. 
 
 After spending the day in looking ai'ound in the vicinity, I prepared to go into camp, 
 intending to make an early start down stream the next day. The wind was from the south 
 and the clouds were beginning to gather threateningly along the tops of the mountains. The 
 Indians advised me to get back as quickly as possible, as a very short rain would be sufficient to 
 swell the river so much as to make the gorge impassable. Accordingly we started at once, and 
 after getting the boat down as far as the junction of the Kowak with the Kit-chah-ee-yak, we 
 got in her and the descent of the river began in earnest. By nightfall we had shot the rapids 
 below the lake successfidly. but not without injury. Half way through the canon the boat 
 " took a sheer" and started off across stream, utterly beyond control. She crashetl into a Hat 
 rock ill the bank, breaking her rail and tearing a hole in her side a foot long. We were com- 
 pelled to jump overboard and lift her up on the bank and repair damages. 
 
 This accident caused me to think more seriously of the dangerous places through which we 
 would be comj)elled to take the boat before reaching the launch, and as she might yet be our 
 only means of reaching the coast (in the event of the loss of the launch), 1 resolved to sto]) and 
 arrange s(jme means of protecting her rotting sides and bottom from the rocks and gravel beds 
 whi(di we found it impossible to avoid running over. Fortunately we had with us an ax and 
 a small l)race-aiid-bit. and with these and a few nails the lioat was made proof again.st ordinary 
 encounters with rocks or the bottom, as follows: 
 
 A false keel was made of a straight spruce tree, one of the roots being left to form the 
 stem. This was easily fitted, as the boat's keel was originally constructed in the same manner. 
 Holes six inches apart were bored transversely through the false keel, and then it was securely 
 fastened on the bottom of the boat. Willow wands were then fitied into the holes in the keel 
 piece and brought up around the outside, and the ends .secured to the rail. Smaller branches 
 of willow were then woven with the others, basket fashion, forming a complete covering for 
 the boat's bottom and sides below the water-line. Although this made the boat much heavier 
 and harder to handle, it effectually protected her while shooting the rapids. 
 
 July 25 was ushered in by a terrific rain-storm, and we found ourselves lialf way between 
 the two rocky gorges. If we were to get through the lower one no time must be lost; so, in 
 
40 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COKVVIN. 
 
 the face of the Htorin we set out early in tlie morniiiK. Between tliese gorges, as has been 
 already stated, the river widens and the current decreases, so that with a gale of wind ahead wo 
 found it almost as hard work to doiicend as to ascend the stream, ilowever. wo soon got ))eyond 
 this low stretch of counti-y and by 2 o'clock reached the upper end of the lower canon. Th« 
 river now was risinj{ rapidly, and I observed with apprehension that nniny of the rocky points 
 which had afforded us a footlujld in coming uj) were now ovcsrHowed by the muddy torri-nt. 
 Wo stopped at the first convenient lodge and all of the l)arty, with the exception of Tah-tah- 
 rok and myself, got out of the boat. The tow-line was then secured to the stern of the boat 
 and tlie Indians on slioro veered away or hold on, as directed by Tah-tah-rok. in this way we 
 slowly workrd our way thrcnigh the gorge until within two hundred yards of clear water. 
 This is tiio W(jrst part ot the river and it really seemed as if we would be compelled at the last 
 moment to abandon the boat. She was unloaded and all the instruments placed in a safe sjwt 
 near by. We then all clapped on to the tow-line and let her go, carefully guiding her past 
 half-snbmergnl rocks and through narrow pa.ssages where the watta- was deeitest, until at last 
 she rested safoly in a (piiet pool at the foot of the cascade. The rain now came down in streams, 
 and amid the discordant cries of hundreds of gulls, the roar of the rapidly rising river, and 
 the hotvliiig of the wind through the gorge, we hurried back over the rocks (i)arts of our bridge 
 not yet having swept away), and brought the instruments down to the boat, and at 5 o'chjck, 
 having safely accomplislied what had never been done before, we carajjed at our old place, 
 finding our cnche undisturbed. 
 
 A large fire vas built, autl in spite of the fact tltat the sto'-m wjis now at its height, we 
 were so completely sheltered by the thick spruce trees that we were soon dry iigain. and having 
 eaten a hearty nienl wo all lay down on the soft mo.-'s, and rolling ny in our rubber blankets, 
 slept as soundly as if surrounded by every convenience of (uvilizatiou. 
 
 The storm lasted till midnight, when it cea.sed as suddenly as it had licgun, and when 
 morning broke the air was warm and pleasant and the sun rose clear and bright in a sky that 
 was free from clouds. I spent the day in obtaining a set of obsei'vations for determining the 
 latitude, longitude, and variation of the compass, and the Indians, under the dii'cction of 'I'ah- 
 tah-rok, remove<l the willow '•chafing gear" we had put on the boat, jis it would not be neces- 
 sary to keep it on any longer. 
 
 At 7 o'clock of July 27 we broke camp and started on our Avay <lown stream. Soon we 
 entered the island system of the river, and, cluxjsing passages n(»t explored in coming up, we 
 shot past hundreds of small thickly-wooded islets at the rate of ten miles per hour. Once in 
 attempting to pass between two small islands we found oui- way blocked by a tree which had 
 fallen entirely across the stream, and we were compelled to turn back and j)roceed by another 
 channel. These interruptions occurred frequently while passing through this portion of the 
 river, but our pr(jgress was very rai)id notwithstanding. 
 
 Toward 10 o'clock a brisk wind from the west sprang up, and soon increased to a uiod- 
 erate gale, accompanied by a heavy rain, and being directly in our faces was exceedingly 
 disagreeable. At noon the sun came out. and I got an observation. Toward 8 p. m. we reached 
 the Indian village where Stoney turned back in 1884, and were about to camp, when a note 
 was handed me from Marsh, dated July 17, and informing me that in attempting to get the 
 launch farther down stream she had gone ashore in the rapids, and at the time of writing there 
 seemed no way of saving her. I determined to keep straight on to the launch without delay, 
 and so, after partaking of a hastily-prepared supper of fish and tea, we bade our Indian friends 
 good-bye and started down stream. Soon a bend in the river hid the fires of the village fnmi 
 our sight. The murmuring of the current as it swept along the rocky shores drowned the 
 voices of the children at play. The howling of the dogs died away in the distance, and the 
 wind and rain having ceased a strange silence fell upon us all. 
 
 There was no need to paddle now. The swift current bore the Pioneer along at the rate 
 of eight to ten miles per hour. Through narrow passages and deep pools we rushed. Now 
 past low banks, with the darkening mountains away off across the purple tundra plains; then 
 shut in by high rocky shores toi)ped by clustering spruce and birch, whose tops stootl oiit like 
 needle-points against the star-lit sky. Now the river is once more a single stream, with an 
 
H.fil. TJ^, 40 1 
 
 i.iTTi.K sA\A(a-:. 
 
 GRANDMOTHER. 
 
CRUISE OF THE STEAMER C( )RWIN. 41 
 
 occaHioiial islmid in tlio bnidH. Tho soft divrkiu'SH full like a veil upoi) tlio river, and wlion the 
 
 imtoii roHc it cast ([iiccr hIiikIows aloiij; tiic liiiiiks. On. on. at Ix'cak-iirck Hpuod, jiasl densely 
 wdoiled Hteeps and locky l)lutl'H, past uiossy banks lillud with flowers, and low i)lains covered 
 by la^oonH — on to the launcli. 
 
 The dead spruce btootl up j^rini and white in the senii-darknesB, and in the silence of the 
 ni^lit seemed like a company of shrouded j^hosts gliding swiftly up sti'eam. Once a white owl 
 left his percli and swooped down within a foot of our heads, and then with a flap of his wings 
 disappeared in the darkness. By li o'clock W(» reachecl the loisg reach filled with I'ocks just 
 above tin* 1 dace where we had parted com |)any with tlu* launch. The Indians stood forward 
 with their poles, and Tah-tah-i'ok and I sat aft with paddles to steer the boat through, for I 
 deterrninecl to shoot the rapids rather than lose time in dropping her down. With a rush'and 
 a roar we ])luugiMl past huge bowhh^rs fi'iiige<l witii foam, so close sometimes as to enable us to 
 touch them with our hands, and then ove.' Jagge(l rocks lying beiieiiMi the surface, StMue- 
 tinn's tile men I'irward would utter a sharp, short cry, and j)lunge theii' poles overl)oard, imd, 
 in spite of the rusiiinff current, bring tlie boat's liead up stream, so as to a\-oid a dangerous 
 ro(^k; but with this exception not a word was spoken. 
 
 In ten minutes we cleared the rapids and came in sight of the spot where we had left the 
 launch. A j)iece of white cloth Hutter<Hl gt'utly from tlie top of a long ])ole on the l)ank, and 
 stopping there I found a cache of provisions and several heavy articles of our camp outfit, with 
 a note from Mr. Townsend, dated the Ptfh instant, saying that aftert wo days" hard wnilv. during 
 which evei'ything hail to be taken out of the launch anil carried through water nearly u|t to 
 their necks to tlie shore, they had succeeded in floating her ovei' the grjivel i)ed upon which 
 shit had grounded, and that they were now encamped in a comparatively s.ii'e spot about' ten 
 miles below the cache. We put the things into th(> boat and |>roci'i'ilcil. 
 
 Ju.st below this |ioint the I'iver widens and many gravel beds obstruct its course, lii^re 
 t-he launch grounded in attemi>ting to go down, but our light boat shot straight down without 
 diflicidty. and at ! 1 o'clock we came in sight of the tents of oiir party and tlie launch salVly tied 
 up alongside the i)ank. We dro|)[ieil down upon them very quietly and with a trcmeinlous 
 yell awoke them from their slooj) and prixdaimed our return. 
 
 I was glad to find all hands well, and Mr. Townsend assured • that man\- valuable sjieci- 
 mens of tin* natural histoi-y of the connti'y had been collect' . during my absence. At the 
 camp T found some fresh bear meat, and in a ••'liort while we sat down to a most delicious sup- 
 ])er of bear ste.ak. hot biscuit, and cofTee, which, considering the fact that we had traveled over 
 one hundred nnles without stopi)ing to eat bnt twice, was found to l)e most acceptable. 
 
 So ends the voyage of tlie Pioneer, 
 
 On July 28 the entire party started for the coast. The river was rajiidly falling, and 1 
 learned from a family of Indians who were encamped near us that if we delayed much the 
 steam-launch could not be gotdown. This seemed to be extremely [irobable. for we had hardly 
 gotten fairly started when the launch became unnuinageable and I'an out on a gi'avel bed. 
 The current forced her completely over on her beam ends, and if Lewis had not promptly 
 hauled the fires and blown off the steam sei'ions conseipiences might have followed. As it was, 
 we found it impossible to hold her head up stream by any ordinary means and so were com- 
 pelled to fill four coal sacks with stones from cm shore and j)lant this ijni)roviseil "bower" 
 some distance up .stream with a line attiiched. by means of which we were enabled to get the 
 launch into deep water again. By shoi'tening up on this line and going back on the engine we 
 slowly •'clubbed" our way through the intricate passages and at 5 p. m. found ourselves where 
 we could proceed in the nsuiil numni^r. 
 
 At 8 o'clock we reached an Indian fishing village and cami)ed. The fishing seascm was 
 now at its height and we obtained some magnificent .salmon from the natives. From this 
 village, bearing northwest by compass, is a series of three lakes of which Car-le-ok-shuk is the 
 npnrost to the river and separated from it l>y a range of rugged mountains from three thousand 
 to thirty-five hundred feet high. A small stream runs into the Kowak, by means of which th« 
 H. Ex. 153 6 
 
42 CRUIHE OF THK HTKAMKR CUmWIN. 
 
 vi<inily of tlic lakes can l>t< rojiclic*!; Itiit no dirt'ct rumiiiimii'atidii )»y watt-r cxiHls, ami T am 
 ini'liiirtl l< think that if any nnth't to these hikes exists, it Hows luirthwaril into tlie Noiitak. 
 Thi* I'unnti'y lyin^ tn tlie northward of these htkes is nionntainons. ami it is likely that nnmy 
 small lakes exist in this rej^ion. When traveling to th" head of the rivt>r dnrii'K 'lie winter 
 the route generally pursned is to the southern side of the Kowak, win'i'c* the monnlains are less 
 precipitous and the trail less ohstrneted liy thicki'ts and timhertMl land. On the north side a 
 f<>\v .'ununer portages exist for JourneyinK to the vicinity of l^ake('ar-loog-ah-l(M k-tah; hut as 
 they are seldom nsetl I could not obtain any detinite information in reganl to the cluiracter of 
 the country through which they lay. 
 
 The next day (July v".*) the river fell so rapidly that I (h'cided to wait until i hegan to rise 
 nK<iiu before proc**ediiig. Tlie day wiut spent in getting a Hut uf ohHervations i.nd in seeking 
 information in geuei'al of tlu Imlians. 
 
 At this s illage th'M'e were eight wonn-n, ten children, and only one num. Tin* linshands 
 of the wonu'ii were away in the niountains hunting deer, and the solitary roi)re<( ntative of the 
 sterner sex, a decrepit old fellow, sixty or seventy years of age, seenu'd to have some didiculty 
 in holding his own against such oi'ds. 
 
 Tlie lishing season being at its height, the women were busy all day and until it becanu' oo 
 dark at night, hauling theii- stunes. A large lire was kept up, in which rouni. stones, two and 
 a half to four inches in diameter, were heated red hot, and when a meal was desii'ed they were 
 thrown into u tub of water, rapidly raising its temperature to the boiling ])oi!it. A half-dozen 
 lish were then put in, and in a few nnunents the natives gathered lound the lire, and after the 
 wonuin who supei'intended tlie cooking luid removed the lish from the tu') and placed them 
 in a large wooden tray, they fell to without ceremoi\y and ate until the supply was exhausted. 
 In a short while another haul of the seine would be nnide and another feast inaugurated, so that 
 one sometimes wonders if it is possible to appease tli(>ir apj)etites. 
 
 The Indians of my jtarty took an active part in eating the lish after they ha<l been cfjoked; 
 but I nevei' saw one assist in their capture by so much as helping the woucen shove their boats 
 off the beach. They would s((nat lazily ilown on their haunches and look on with ludicrous 
 impassiveiiess while the women loaded their boats with the seine or hauled it in heavily 
 weighted with tish. 
 
 The chiltlren assist the wojnen, and the scene wlutn a big haul is made is picturesi|ue in the 
 extreme. A half dozen little naked savages, up to their waists in the water end struggling 
 frantically with refractory .salmon and white-fish, almost as large as thi'mselves. was an event 
 of fre(|Uent occurrence. 
 
 The fish which are not immediately eaten are cut open and the entrails removed, and are 
 then hung up to dry on long j)oles phu-ed horizontally on upright sup])oi'ts along the l)each. 
 The head is removed and the roe is dried .separately. Fish are sonu'tinies, though not com- 
 monly, bui'ied without having been previously (leaned, and allowed to become jiutrid before 
 eating. This form of diet is esteemed a luxury, hut owing to the trouble of trans])orting it 
 when traveling it is not so common is the dried fish. I attempted to eat some of the buried 
 lish. but, in sjiite of the fact that I was vei'y hungry at the time, I could not retain it on my 
 Htoniach, and I am .satisfied that a white man winihl starve before his stomach could he edu- 
 cuted u]), or down, to this re|)nlsive diet. In ad<1ition to the drying-jjoles, each fi.shing villagt^ 
 contains n s(inare house, ten or twelve feet high. nni(l(> of j)iles and cov<'ri'd by small poles. 
 When a sulficitMit number of tish have been dried on the poles, they are put in this lunise and 
 thoroughly smoked, and are then ready foi- storing a%fay for winter use. 
 
 The .s(Mnes are cleverly nnide from the inside bai-k of the willow and range from thirty to 
 sixty fe(>t in length by four to six feet in width. Pieces of deer antlei's a7'(> commonly used as 
 sinkers for tlu^ seines. In many places along the i iver the banks are filled with a tough fibrous 
 root, from which is manufactured a most admirable substitute for twine. Seines made of this 
 nuitiM'ial iire accounted su])erior to any others, and from my experience with one which we had 
 brought frcnn the shij), I do not think a com])arison with the native article would show that 
 civilization had made any improvement in this direction, excei)t perhaps in point of weight. 
 
H Bl |JJ,49 I 
 
 
 
 ^ii 
 
 ^mAt. 
 
 KOWAK RUKK WOMAN, SIIOWIM. IIOOU <iK "PAKKA.' 
 
H Ki. 15J, 4,, , 
 
 KOWAK K1\KK VOt'.NCi MAN. 
 
(•UriHK UK THK STKAMKU CnUVVIN. 43 
 
 All <liiy w« liiwl Im'I'ii ikiixioiiNly watchinit th(> iIuuiIh wliii-li Iiiiiik nroiiiul tlio mountain iM'itkH 
 further lip ili« riv«>r with ii Iiii|n< of ruin, ami alMtiit A p. ni. tlicy Krikiliially Im-kuii iiuiviiiK iiIoi^k 
 till' tiipM iif tlii> inniintaiiiH frunii'itHt.tn wt>Nt. Ntcailily inrri'iiHin^ in volMini'itiiil raiii'lity »( motion 
 as till' sun wi'iil iIovmi, until tli)* vvliiitt«f.'<>rtlii<ni sky wan <larki-mM| ami llic alimmphiTr iMTiinn- 
 Niiltry ainl op|irrsHiv'i<. Tli)* situation of oifPciti'jj, on I In* sii|i< ul' a vvomly I tint)', k'^vc ns a 'iia^- 
 nilli'i'iit view of till' valley of llii> river and lln> n. iitn tains lowanl I lie east, ami lonk( itel'ore the 
 I'oininvr I'ain reaehed us we coujil s)>e tlii> riusteriiiK sprnre Iteml ami ilarken on tlie liillsides, the 
 willow thickets sliiver in the Niilley, ami the silvei' liireli turn pale ami t rem Me liet'ore the ei lin- 
 ing of tile liiast. Ami as we lookeil away oil across the low ki'i'i'Ii viklley, with its hnmlreds of 
 hiKoons, which xleanieil in the rays of tin* Ni>ttint( niiii, lliecloinlH Heeiiieij to nnisM theinselves 
 upon the liei|{iits ami <'hai'Ke down into the valley, olilileratiiiK whole moiinliiins iiikI drowniiiK 
 the very llKht of day. 'I'lie iiiKlit and the storm came lo^jetlier, and for hours we lay in our 
 teiitH and listened to th<< iiowlin^of the wind, thelii-i-ce U-at of th«> niiii.aiid tlie rapidly im-reiiH- 
 iliK inurmur of the river as it swept past our camp. 
 
 When niorniiiK hroke the storm was still laKiiiK and the river had rison almost a foot 
 
 <lurin>{ the ni^ht. At H o'elock a short lull unw iin an op|>ortunity to hn-iak camp and prot I. 
 
 At this point the river runs to the .southwest, leaving the mountains on the north side, and Ki'^d- 
 nally approaches the raiiKc in the south. Many sand ami gravel spils miike out from the sliures 
 ami (he ciiiirHe of the stream is very tortuous. 
 
 '{'he width of the river in this part is from two hundred to two hiimlretl and tifty yards, and 
 tlie ilepth of water varies from six to eij^ht feet. The current was now ahoiit tive knots, lint 
 in the lieiids. where sami spits projected from the upposite shore niid the channel lieciinie nar- 
 row, it increased somucli that we were compelled In drop the launch throiiKh liackwards hy 
 nieaiiH of an anchor kept out up st ream. Two of the Indians in small canoes were kejit iivti 
 liundi'ed yards in advance, and hy means of sijfmds pninted mit the hest channel. At :i p. m., 
 having piissed some \ery shoal places and arrived at a place where the river turns toward thu 
 south, I stop|ie(i and camped, hoping to Ki't some oliservatiouH. 
 
 Mr. Townsend and I climhed the mountains near the camp, and the storm linvin>? rea.se(l, 
 we had a tine view of the country, .\iioiil li\e mill's from the river we ^{ot upon ii lidKi' over- 
 looking the country to the nortliward iind discovered a river of considerahle size llowiiiK into 
 the Kowak. soinedistance helow, from the northeast. The river rauK"'. althouKli covered with 
 moss and timher on the side nearer the river, was precipitous and ru^^p'tl in the extreme hm 
 tlu' other. Deeji, ahrupt cartons and koi'K'"'* <'ould lie seen in every direction. When we 
 reached the ridK<'. afti'r rlimliiiiK aloiiK densely wooded slopes and mossy plains, and first 
 beheld the totally ditl'erent country heyond, the effect was startliiiR. 
 
 The tundrii plains are (illed with lierries, and we have nodithculty in olitaiiiiii^; an iiKuii- 
 ilaiice of siilnioii, hhie, and wild raspherrii's. while in places, especially on hi^jh land, the wild 
 currant was found of excellent ipiality. To tliese articles of diet may he added the wild onion, 
 rhuliarh. and parsnip, which formed an iij^reeahle change from ourd.iily rations, 'i'lie Indians 
 are very fond of the wild [larsnip and adopt a shrewd plan for ),'i'tlinf; a sujiply without the 
 trouble of collecting it- The tield inou.ie is very coninion in this rej^ion, and before* the winter 
 sets in has constructed himself a house and tilled it with tlu' desinible root. Now. all tli 
 Indian has to do is (to use the words of my interjireter), " Look for mouse-liniise; hinieliv 
 little hill: Iiijiin iUk n|> little hill: ketclium plenty root; very >;oo(l I" 
 
 To b" fully a|ii)ii'ciated by the native j^ourmand it must be first lioiled with fish or seal oil, 
 and if molasses or supir is obtainable it is sweetened by the addition of one or both of these 
 ingredients. The wild parsnip is common aloiij^ the I'ivei's iind in the low valleys of all North- 
 ern Alaska, and Mynnka. the interpreter, who lives on the Yukon, informed me that its u.seas 
 an article of diet is connnon on that river. Apropos of the native fondness for snjfur, and in 
 fact all sjiccharine suiistances, it is reinarkiible that they have nevei' jicipiircl the taste fni' siilt. 
 The river Indians do not eat salt with their food. )ind in fai't object to it with manifest repiijf- 
 nance when forced to eat such .articles as bacon, luiin, &c.. which are neces-sarily very salty. 
 
 At noon on July 31, after having lested at this village a day and a lialf, we left and pur- 
 
 e 
 
 SI (■ 
 
44 • CKUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 sui!(l our journey down stream. During; tlie iiftornoon we iiaswcd nnii exaniined tlie moiitliH of 
 tliu river wliieli Mi'. Townsend and 1 noticed flowing from i\w nortlieast wliile we were on tlie 
 mountains. The river lias two jjrineijtal mouths, fonninj^ a delta about two miles King. They 
 wertt uhout seventy-live yards vvidc! and from six to ten feet deep. The native mime is El-yog- 
 o-lok-tok, or Rocky Rivor. None of my party luid ever ascomled it, and no extended infornui- 
 tion, except that it (lowed tbrougli a mountainous country, and its channel was liiled with 
 ro(^ks, could ho obtained. 
 
 At niglit, after i)assing many islands covei'ed»with spnico and willow, wo readuMl the foot 
 of the mountains bounding the Kowuk Valley on the south. From this point thtM-oui'.se of 
 the river turns to the northward and wt'stward toward tint Jade Mountains, whicii can be seei' 
 lying dim and blue in the distance. As the position is an imjiortant one, lieing possibly the 
 southern limit of the river's course, I stopped and camped in order to get a good set of obser- 
 vations. 
 
 The rain still cjinie down in a steady, willful, j)ersistent fashion wliich was most disheart- 
 ening, and even the Indians, who generally seem to care as little for a wetting as a duck, looked 
 washed out, faded, iiiid disconsolate. The camp was pitched on a rocky beach at the base of a 
 low blulV. but befoi'e morning the river rose four feet and drowned us out, and it was with 
 considerable haste that the teiits and impetlinienta were bundled up iUi' stee]) bank and placed 
 beyond the reach of tht* flood. The tgp of the blnfT was overgrown with moss and willow l)riisli, 
 and it was found to be iin]iossible to ])itch our (ents. The mos([uitoes have become impervious 
 to rain, and aftei- the party had finished exploring the bushes for a. tit j)lace to camp they 
 returned to the rivei' bank, eiich attended by a cloud of nios(iuit(jes, whiidi. if they <lid not 
 make our lives iia|ipy, at least cau.sed us to forget all other disconiforts by theii- pei'sistent nnd 
 'iloodtliirst y attacks. 
 
 With the first streaks of dawn steam was got on the launch, and as soon as we could see 
 well enough to pick out the chamiel W(^ left our disnud cam]) and incontinently fled. Onr tor- 
 mentors followed us a short distance, but once out in the middle of tiie rivei-, here about five 
 hundred yards wide, the launcdi was urged alx'ad n\ full s])eed, and, aided by the strong cur- 
 rent, W(( swe])t down past the flooded banks with frightful velocity, and the mosquitoes were 
 left behinil. 
 
 At sunrise we came in sight of a fishing village, and my thi-ee rivei- Indians immediately 
 recognized it as their home, which had been removed fr(<m the i)!ace wiiere 1 had picked them 
 up. We landed, and, finding a good place to camp, we soon had our tents pitched and fires 
 built to tlry our soaked clothing. The father of the Indians whoa,ccom|mnied me was on hand 
 to meet us ami 1 watched with some curiosity how he would meet his sons. 1 was surprised to 
 see that he did not notice them, nor they him, by the slightest word or action. All of his 
 remarks were addresseil to Tah-fah-rok, and luid relation to the weather, run of fish, &c. 
 
 After the cam]) had l)een i)itched the Indians of my party and those from the village sat 
 down round the fire and smoked silently for some time. At last one of my ]iarty began in a 
 high key and very abruptly to give an account of our trip. He was interru])ted from time to 
 time by short ejaculations of suj'])rise or ap])roval, and as the narrative jirogressi'd these 
 interru])tions became more fi-equent until at its close the spejiker ended <piite as abi'uplly as hi- 
 had begun, and, rising from his seat on the ground, walked slowly to the fishing village and 
 went into his father's house. 
 
 By a strange coincid(Mice. onr camj) was situated (m the very s])ot where, the year before. 
 I had reached the Kowak by making a jiortage from an Indian village situated on the Um-ok- 
 a-look-tok River. A short di.stam e back of the river, on the south side, a series of lakes extended 
 idmost to the mountains bounding the valley in that direction. The confornnif ion of the coun- 
 try and the [losition of these lakes with reference to ea(di other i)lainly shows that at no dis- 
 tant day the channel of the river was there, and that in accordance with the principles of a 
 meandering stream the .swift current had gradually cut a new channel through the soft banks, 
 and the old river bed soon resolved itself into a chain of shallow lakes. As this formation is a 
 
H. Kx 151, 4() I 
 
 ^-^ 
 
 "^^iFjBfT 
 
 VIEW OK MULNIAINS 1- KO.M 1 lU.\ ALASKA. 
 
 BARABARA AND WOMAN. Ol'NAl.ASK A. 
 
II. Kx. 151 49 I 
 
 •'•.;■.,:■■•■>■■.■>■■; ;.V;;'--Kr ^- ::^^;!■;*-^ 
 
 sfeviitiwi:..'.,/'.-:;'':'';^,' ■■ •"■ ■ ::'-yi^ 
 
 !IITIfti:*1IBiiiH 
 
 WAI KKIAl.l,. Ill NAI.ASKA 
 
 HkltSl KO( K, OLNALASKA. 
 
CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 45 
 
 characteristic feature of the entire river where its courHe is unobstructed ])y nioiintaiuH, it may 
 ho well to consult (lie (li.ii,M')iiii Kiven 1m<1ow. in order to better understand its nieiming. 
 
 Let <-'' n'lircsciit the direction of the current and K K 
 the first clwmnel. Then, liy constant erosion, the iianks at A 
 and A' will lie >j;radually broken down; Iheilebris ■ 'uduaily 
 forniH ,,;;,>.>„ shoals, oi' islands, in the stream, as and C, 
 
 and the distance from A to A" ami from A' to i i-creases 
 until, no lon>;ei' cai)al)le of withstanding the pressure, the 
 banks give way, and a new channel is formed. The old 
 channel at A, A', and B is ><radually filled u|) by sediment 
 from the river, ami the bends A, C, A' and A', C", H become 
 a system of lakes and lagoons. 
 
 From any liigh hill overlooking the valley f)f the Kowak 
 this foriinition can be seen, and the number of lakes is only 
 linnted by the extent of the low level country through which 
 the river has ii (diaiice to meander. 
 
 The rain continued to fall steadily, and the river rose 
 ra])idly for eight days, during which time we ntn'cr moved, 
 e.xcept as forciMl to do so liy the rising water. I wante<l to 
 get a .set of ()l)servations at this point, particularly as a check 
 on my last year's work, ami so we made ourselves as comfort- 
 ahle us possible under the circu instances. 
 
 With the rising of the river the current increased, and 1^' 
 the launeh was in diiiiger of being torn f'-oju her position 
 alongside the i)ank liy floating drift-wood, in oi'der to avert the accident two large trees were 
 secured and the smaller ends lashed together at right angles. The butts wi-re then made 
 fast to the bank, the whole foi'nung a right-angled triangle, ^ 
 
 under the base of which tiie launch was as safe as if in a dry 
 dock. 
 
 The I'iver ros(^ on an average two feet per day. Many 
 fi.sh which wt-re drying on ))oles a!'range(l along the beach at 
 the village were swept away; the Indians seeming to be too 
 a])atluttic or improvident to take any precautions to save 
 them. We moved our tents to a small hill a short distance 
 froni the river the tliii'd day we stojiped here. The water 
 had hy this time overlloweil the banks in low places .and \vi' 
 were eiiableil to reach tini lakes with snnill boats. Our lime 
 wasoceui)ied in gunning and fishing in the region, and many 
 speciuHMis were ol)tained. 
 
 Once Marsh encountered a land-otter while ]>ad(lling 
 across mw of the small lagoons near <lark. He had nevi-r 
 seen on(» befort* and ai'riveil in camj) with his hair on end to inform us that Im had just loft a 
 crocodile making a meal of his boat. We were soon in i)ui'suit, but the shy animal got away. 
 
 In conversation with the Indians I learned that ten days ])ortage in the winter time from 
 file Kowak brought the traveler to the banks of a stn^am b(*yond the Noiltak. and whi(di flowed 
 into th(! seji. where " there ic(<fi dlinii/s ire."' Near its headwaters there was a lake, which, like 
 the lake :it the head of tins Kowak, became each year th(> rendezvous for hunting. When a 
 herd of deer is discovered the hunters surround it and gradually frighten the deer so that they 
 seek to esciij)!' by mea!is of the lake. Into ii, they jjlnnge, sometinn>s fifty at a time, and there 
 fall easy victims to tlu^ hunters, who follmv them in boats, and in order to save ammuuitiou 
 give tlie coup de grace with sliort spears. 
 
 At the mouth of the ri \M'r they say the Indians gather for the purpose of trading with 
 these from other parts of the country. The current is I'apid and the river is shoal for a long 
 
 LAUNCH 
 
 \J 
 
 > 
 
 
 s/ 
 
 
 
 \/ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 V 
 
 < 
 
 
 V 
 
 > 
 
 ^ 
 ^ 
 
 V 
 
 < 
 
 t 
 
 V 
 
 > 
 
 03 
 
 V 
 
 < 
 
 
 Y 
 
 
 
46 CRUISE OV THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 diHtniice. Coal of n very /^ood (jimlity is t'omul in dills uinii>j; its ImiikH. tiiiii in order to iiHcer- 
 taiii thi' Uiitivv' iilcii of ^uod coal I nsknl my int'orinaiit if it was as Ko<»d as tin- coal found on 
 the Kowak, and lie said (hat the Kowak coal was •'rocky" (/. i'.. slaty), hut tiiat on (he riv(*r 
 doscrihed was very soil and hlack. The Indian name for (his s(ream is Kar-n'yt'r-nok, and I 
 hiivo no liesitation in wayiuK that it is the Colville of p'o^raphcrH. 
 
 On Aut^ust S the rain ceased, and soon afterwards the river he^^an to fall. Ry nex( day the 
 hanks of the stream hei-ame (listiuKnishahle, and soon the emptyinjf lagoons foi-nu'd miniatni'e 
 cascades, which tumhlod down thebrokon hunks ami splashed noisily into tho river. TIumIoikIs 
 rolled away, tlut sun canu' out, and the dank, hedra^K''''! foliage Huunit'd to take fresh courago 
 under tile inlluenci! of its wai'ining rays. 
 
 With tlie first appearance of tlie sun I got some observations, and at noon of August !t I took 
 the launch out and started hack up the river, in order to get a set of observations at the j)Ia(!3 
 where oui' cani|) of August I had been drowned out. We found the river still Idgh and the 
 current ])roportionately stronger, but the lauiich, being unhampered by the skin boat, nuido 
 good way against it. and by lughtfall we reached a high sand biulV formed by a ridge running 
 in from the mountains on thesouthei'n side of the rivei'. This I considered a favorable spot for 
 a set of oliservatioiis. as it is where I he river turjis in its cour.s(» toward the southwest and Mows 
 nu)ro toward the nv)rthward and west. In coming down the river the Jade Mountain here first 
 comes in sight, and foi" a long distance forms a prominent feature of the landscape. 
 
 Mr. Townsend was soon b\isy with the birds, and succee(le(l in getting several new siM'ci- 
 mens for his collection. Tht; weather cleared uj) cold, and during tlu! night a light snow fell 
 in the valley, and when moridng dawned the tops of the mountains wore covered with a white 
 fleecy mantle which gave' to the scene a wintry aspect and warneil us that the short Arctic 
 summer was drawing to a close. 
 
 Tho natives inform me that at this time tho mountains at the head of the river are entirely 
 covered by snow, and (hat in (en or (welve days ice will begin (o form there. The river is never 
 entirely frozen over, the strength of the current always ki'e|)ing a small channel ojien. When 
 the river opens in (h(^ spring an<l the accumulation of ice liegins to move toward the sea tho 
 sight must be inexiiressibly grand. The trtMnendotis pressure tears fisunder the baid<s, upheave^) 
 huge bowlders, ami I have seen plact>s whei-e a large mass of ice had left the river IhmI and 
 carved its way with ii-resistil)le force through a forest of spruce, leveling all obstructions and 
 leaving in its path the inefi'aceable evidiMice of appalling strength: jtrostrate trees, uprooted 
 bushes, and trenches in tlie frozen earth six feet dee|». 
 
 During the afternoon of August 1 1, having completed the woi-k of (d)(aining astronomical 
 observations at this point, W(f were about starting on our way down stream, when the 
 yelling and shouting of tlm natives at the village just below us attracted oui' at tendon in (hat 
 direction, and wobeheld (he United S(ates steam-launch K.tplorcr. with Lieut. (Jeor,i;i'M. Ktom-y 
 in command, (:.;aing slowly around the bend and standing ovei' towjirds (he site of our late 
 camp. We were already under way and going down stream; but I stopjx'd the launch and 
 ask<»d Lieutenant Stoney if I could bo of any sisrvice to him. He re((uesteil im^ to stop long 
 enough to enable him to make u]) his mail intended for tho United States, which 1 did. 
 
 While lying alongside the Krplorrr the gauge-glass of our launch bi'oke, and the pi'omjit 
 action of Lewis and Marsh alone preventecl serious injury to the boiler. Mr. Zane, of tho 
 E.vi>hn('i\ offered nm the fatdlitios of the engineer's dei)artmont to repair the <lamage; hut 
 as we had (^very facility at hand on tlie launch, it was not necessary to avail ourselves of liis 
 kindness further than to acce|)t an e.xtra gauge-glass in case of future acci<leiit. 
 
 After spending an hour very ph^asantly together we jiarted company. Lieutenant Stoney 's 
 ])arty jiroceeding u[) stream toward the jilace which he had selected for his winter headciiiai'ters, 
 wliih^ the expedition under my command drojipeil leisurely down streiim, stopiiing at intervals 
 ^o get observations, to obtain specimens of the fiowcM-s and grasses, which grew in the utmost 
 profusion along the shores, or to climb some hill where the character of the country could he 
 best asc((rtained. 
 
 At night wo reached asand-sjiit in the i-iv.-r a. short distance above tlie Nnt-mok-to-way-ok 
 (river) and camped. The counse of tlio Kowak is hero about northwest, and trends more toward 
 
II. K«. 153,49 • 
 
 PKT" 
 
 £Sfi^^--- - ■ -— MEfiiil' 
 
 
 JADE MOI'NTAIN. KOWAK RIVER. 
 
 
 ffi^i 
 
 KCVVAK RIVER, VICINITY OK JAUE MOUNTAIN. 
 
CUUISE OF THK 8TEAMKH COttWlN. 47 
 
 tho inoiiiitdiiiH h(iiiiuliii>? tlio viilloy on tlu» north. Tin* Noi-inok-to-wiiy-ok tnkt's itH Hmo in tliin 
 rliiiin uf mountiiins, wliicli form llin wutorslutil liotwcKii tliti Kowiik hiuI Noiiliik, iiml llowh in ii 
 HouthwuHt tliri^ctiou into t)to Kowuk, itu junuiion with thti iutter Htrciun lu-in^ inai-ki>il hy un 
 iNliind sonn< two miUtn in (lianuttiir, mo that tho tr ^vcidr in iiHuuntlin^ tho Kuwiik ami arrivinK ut 
 this |i(iint will ln' |iii/,/,li'(l to know whicli rontu to takn. 
 
 A Honiowhat similar foiinalion ox'iHts at tliu jnnction of thn Hiit-o-f<ar-rik-|ink or S inincl 
 llivt«r witii till) Kowak. anil tlut similarity l^ails mo to Ix^lit^vo that iil times Ihi'si' two triliu- 
 tarit's, which at tlui time of my visit wnm not half so huK" 'ih the Kowak. Iiccomc swollen liy 
 the melt inj? snow of tho mountains and ovcrllow the valley of the Kowak, hreakin^ throu^li 
 tho low hanks, ami thns form the islands which attracted my attention. 
 
 From the jnnction of tlie Not-mok-to-way-ok the Kowak gradinilly trondn toward the west- 
 ward, 'i'he hends are less atirnpt, the shores hecoine fai'tluT apart, and the I'iver seems to 
 cease for a while its erratic and tortiions windings, and to assunu' all the fnnclions and attri- 
 hntes of a nni.jesti(! stream. Mention has heon nnido Ix'fore in this report of the calm heanty 
 of the I'iver in the vicinity of the .lade Monntain. We had now I'eadied thai portion of the 
 stream, and, on .AnKtist li, appeared the hi^^h clay hlntVs in whijdi were discovered last year 
 the remains of the nmmmoth. F((>r(>, on a hi^h hlufT, on tlio opposite sido of the stream, wn 
 saw the white lents and heaiul the rin^in^ notes of (lie ax. which apprised ns of llic fact that 
 white men had made this a plac(> to stop and rest. We ran in-shore and ascerlaini'il that this 
 WHS a snpply camp of tlm Htoney exploring? party, tempoi'arily in charj^e of Knsi^n Keed, 
 U. S. N. At his reiinest we campecl near hy, and. as I wished to compare my clironomeier 
 with his. and to jjjet a set of comparative si^^hts, 1 determined to remain here one dav. 
 
 During the next day we remained in the vicinity, and I siicceeiled in j^ettin^; some photo- 
 graphs of the J ado Monntain, whitdi isahont twelve miles from ihe river at this point. I'liotn- 
 >;raphs were also ohtaineil of tl; • river as seen from the hiwh clay lilnll's. 
 
 The snmmer had now practically ended. The nij^hts came <in cold and (diilly. and W(t 
 were loth to leave the camp-tire and tnrn in. The monntains in the north were now snow- 
 covored, and the north winds wert* heginninK to make us sliiver when not at work. Ico 
 formcil in tin- still water of the inland lagoons, and snddeidy we ohsi-rved the woods were 
 HtraiiKi'ly silent, for the little feathered son>;sters had migrated at the lirst c(dd snap. 
 
 Mr. Townsund hrought into camp a specimen of red snow, wliich lio ohtained on tlie monnt- 
 ains, and it was put in a hottle and placed with tiie other articles fornduK '""' collection of 
 natnral history. 
 
 After siM>ndin,i< a most enjoyahle time in company with Knsign Heed and Dr. Nash at this 
 
 encampment, W(( parted with mntual exjjre.ssions of jifood fetdinj^, and our party pi'( eiled on 
 
 its way. 
 
 With the increasing len>;tli of nif^ht , the transition fnnn lij^lit to darkness is n\ore mark<Ml, 
 and a lover of nature's heauties is lost in admiration as he j^azes on the transformation which 
 takes place when t!ie sun pH!S down l)ehind the mountains and the valley K""'^ •" sleep. As it 
 disajjiiears heyoiid the ru;(>;eil jii'aks in the west the wlicde sky is ahlaze with li),'lit. At first 
 the valley .seems hatheil in a didicate luminous pink, hut as you looli the pink turns >i;ray and 
 Ihe i)ur;)le sha<lowH of the lower valley creep out in every direction till darkness comes on. 
 Then one sees the ti'ees are no longer green, hut stand out hiai'k and sharply delined 
 against tlie cold gray sky. 
 
 The summer had ended. 
 
 The description of tin* river from this point has alre.idy lieen entei'cd n))on at length, and 
 will hardly heai' repetition. BetAveun the Jade Mountain and ihe mouths of the river liut 
 little is seen hy the traveler hut a tortuous stream winding thi'ough a flat uninteresting coun- 
 try, vari(ul in one or two jdaces hy high hlutt's, which an^ formed hy the foothills of the con- 
 lining chain of mountains. As the delta is neared even these disap])ear. The mountains 
 trend more toward tho north and the river toward the west-southwest, thus foi-ming .a valley 
 or plain oviu- which the river has flowed in a hundred different dinvtiojis. 
 
 At a point eighty or one hundred miles up stream a low range of niountuins touch tho river, 
 
48 CKUIHK OF THi<: HTKAMKH fOKWIN. 
 
 ftiiil on AimuHt 17 wn rt'iuliiMl Mum |iliici« on our (lowMwiinl journoy. Mr. TowiihcihI hikI T 
 cliinlii'il to till' liipcir till' iiiiiiiiitiiiii tunl fnirii tliiw cui^n of viiiituKi' liiul iin I'xtciiili'il vi<>w. Fnv 
 (iwiiy to tilt" wi'Htwivril tlm inouiitiiitiH liroiiiul Ht-liiwik Ijiiku <'uiilil ho m»)ii, itiiil lM'tw(t<n um ami 
 
 Hntliaiii Iiili'l w iilil iiiitkc out tli<< ili'ltii of lilt' Kowiik witli it:< liuii(li't><iH of cluiiiiuU wiiyH 
 
 iMiil lii^jniiiiM. sii cliisc ti»)j;cllM'i' tliiit it sccMii'd. us sifWfcl fruui oiii- puNilinu, tluit only liHlinlit l-isc 
 i'l tlu« river would Im> in'ci-ssury to rliuup'tliis Mystfiuof islHuds, livf^ooim, luid MtrcuniH. intooiio 
 ViHt slifct i(f wiitcr ill Hliapf like hii f<|uiiiit('riil triiiiiKli'. Iiiiviiin oiii- of its iinj^lcs iit our IVct. 
 <Mio at tlio lower end of Selawik liake, and tlie remaining one at the north end of liothuni 
 Inlet. 
 
 We oliserved oil the .suinniit 'of IImh inounlain several piles of stoneH, and upon iiii|uiry 
 l(»iriied that they were placed there as landmarks liy the natives to serve as guides while trav- 
 eling; diiriii^r the winter. Hii^^e howlders of inarlile lay aloiiK Ihi' ridKe. ami seemed tu hav,' 
 Iturst tlieir way thiouKh the moss which covtM'ed the mountain in all other places. 
 
 DiiriiiK the intxt day wo paHsed the .junction of the S<niirrel River with the Kowak. li 
 Hows in from the northeast, and heyoiid heiiiK '"•'' "f ^1"' principal feeders of the laixe river It 
 is not lielieveil to he of any s|iecial iiiiportance. A short distance helow this place is whore 
 coal was first discovered in the first e.xploratioii hy me. Here the river is coufinod l)y ii soricB 
 of rocky liliiffs, and forms what I have designated in former descriptions the first or lower 
 rapids. We experienced .Moine dilHcnlty in ^ettin^ through here, Imt. having ohtaiiied consid- 
 «'rahle kiiowled;i(e of the channel hy former struKf^les, we inaiiaKod to got throu^li without 
 injury. 
 
 The coal is intimately mi.xed with u Ifiie white clay, which renders its use for a small fur 
 mice almost im|)ossil)le. However, it is my opinion, hused on the exporienoo of others, that 
 this seam if worked would produce a piod ipiality of coal. 
 
 I saw uiinierous specimi>iis of extra K<><>d hitnininons coal, which the IndiaiiH claim could 
 he (liitaiiieil easily, on some of the small trihiitaries of the Kowak, lint I never succee<led, 
 allhouKh 1 tried several times, to definitely locate the jilace where such coal could he ohtaiiied. 
 
 Ono of tho most remarkahle, in fiw^t the only remarkalile featuro of the lower river, is the 
 ict> formation in the IiIkIi hliick hlull's. The recent heavy rains had caused the river to rise 
 to an unusual height, and I ohserved in nii'iy places where the erosion of the flood had exposed 
 viust masses of ici>, which had escajied my noticw formerly. CliaiiK*' in the order of the day 
 here, and it is no uncommon tiling to see, soon after a flood or freshet in the river, musses of 
 earth, upon which trees thirty to foi'ty feet IiIkI' have j^rown, suildeiily hrejik away and fall 
 with a tremendous roar into the river. I ohtained sketches and jihoto^jraphs of these hrokeii 
 hlutfs. hut no i>ictiirecan ade((uately jiortray flie feelinj; of uttisr desolation which this destruc- 
 tive work of tile ever-rnsliiiij; rivi^r conveys. 
 
 The constant falling away of the soft earth, leaving the solid ico hare in iiiiiiiy places, has 
 f^iveii rise to many curious and fantastii; formations. 
 
 Heads of men, women, and animals can he readily discrovored, ami if the enthusiastic 
 tourist who sees in the pictured rocks of Lake Superior so much that is womlerful could gazo 
 upon tlies(^ icy cliffs, his lunotion would he inexpi'essihle. 
 
 For miles along the rivor in this portion of its course tlieso icy cliffs ajipear and disaiijiear 
 at regular intervals, so that it is ohserved that they recur in hends that are parallel with each 
 other, which would seem to indicate that its existence is not due to dejiosits of icc^ hy the river, 
 olso it would he in all of the hends, liut that its jiresence is duo to some other cause. If a 
 straight line is drawn through the centiM' of one of the.sii ice-cliffs, and through the KNE. 
 and WSW. points of the compass, it will not only touch all of the cliffs, hut if extended to 
 tho sen will touch tho coast at a point very near Ele|iliant Point, on Escholtz Hay, where, it is 
 well known, a peculiar ico formation in tho hluffs has heen observed and commented ujion 
 hy numerous scientific men. 
 
 Climbing to the top of ono of these ice-clifTs. Mr. Townsond and I jjushed our way through 
 tho dense thickets of willow and luxuriant growth of grass into the interior for al)out one miles 
 whore wo found ii shallow lake about a mile in diameter, which I have no doubt had its origin 
 
tl Bl III, 4« 
 
 I. .] iu ...ilit . 
 
 I '}t*»^V-. :..,7TSIi|iflir^"nI;(7 
 
 , ,,,,". mm. ».•■!» .li)|l"',„l|ll|-«nni!iiiiiil'ifllll"''l"l*'i 
 
 i ii .|!;;;| !|;;!iiiiliin"iliiiiiiiiii'Mii.*ii« ''<*•»' ' '"""; 
 
 "'■feS-: 
 
 ,iil"! ii«ii::i.'iiiniil|ii:i«,iilii:ii[||,r 
 
 i||,|H<;t'-"'|l|'D''; 
 
 ''iil''!»iiiiiiiiiiii!iliil^ 
 
 II 1'. CI.IIK.s, KHW \K KU I l< 
 
 ICK CI.IKKS, KOWAK Kl\ tK, ALASKA. 
 
II. Rl i\\. 4<| I 
 
 HKiPKI.N HI IKI N 111 |( K AMJ SAM), l.nW \k \i\\ Kl< 
 
 KUWAK KIVKK. 
 
CRUISK OF TPIK STKAMKK (U)UWIN. 49 
 
 ill the muss of ico over wliicli we liad hcfii tnivcliii^. It is iiiiiidst- iiiconcoivabln how such a 
 rimiv vcKi'tiitiuii ciui Ix' siistiiiiicd iiiKJcr siicii (•(Hi(!itiniis. If wc stood in oim jiliict^ any length 
 of tinio th(j sj)oMH:y moss iMJCiinio satunitcii, anil soon a [looi of dark-colortnl water made our 
 position untcnaliif. 
 
 Bi'si(K-s till' moss, hcrrics, and slMnlcil willows, cliistfrs of sjn-ucn trcvs, some mousurinf; 
 six anil cij^lit inches in diunii'icr, liavi' taki'ii root and Lcrown in the thin strata of soil over- 
 lying; tho ii'i). To invcstiKatr this suiiji'i-t thorou;;ldy would ri'(|iiire more time than 1 have at 
 my conimaml, hnt from the superficial in vest ligation of this peculiar formation I am inclined 
 to helievethat here arethe remuinsof what was a movin^^ rnshinj; rivca', lying frozen and still 
 under the dank moss and hlack earth of the Arctic tundra. 
 
 On tho aftornoou of August ^'l tho expedition reached the Indian .settlement where we had 
 left a cache of ]»rovisions, boat sails, &c., in coming U|). and wc camped on a .sand hi'ach opjio- 
 site. We friind our elfects had lieen well taken care of during our absence by the two old 
 women who live here. During the recent fresiiet in the river they had been compelled to 
 carry the coal which we had left on the shore far up the stee|i bank, and I could hardly l)elieve 
 that the feat had been accomplished unaided by the decrepit-looking old women; but uj)on 
 inquiry I learned that such was really the ca.se. 
 
 Api'opos of this instance, illustrating the strength of the Tnnnit women, another case came 
 under my observation wliiidi I consider worth relating. When about to al)andon the launch 
 in the sumnu-r of 1S,S4, I wished to obtain a stone large enough to serve tis an anchor, and as 
 none was availal'le on the spot, a woman volunteered to go some distance up a small tributary 
 of the river and bring one down to us in her boat. When she returned with the stone, and 1 
 noted its size, 1 w.is truly asloinshed. It require.' two of my party, who were Imth remarkably 
 strong men, to lift the stone from the l)oat. It >-ould not have weighed iiss than eight hundred 
 jiounds, anil how the wonnin got it into her f»ail bark canoe without assistance is mont than I 
 can understand. Tah-tah-rok. to whom 1 went for an e.N]danation of the method pursued, (old 
 me that she had lirst filled her lioat wilii small brandies of spruce, and then, choosing a i)art 
 of tho bank where the boat's rail would be on a level with the ground, had rolled the stone 
 over on to the pliant boughs, and so avoided lifting it at all. Afterwaids the sjirnce branches 
 weri' removed separately and the stone .-illowed to gradually sink to its iirojiei' jjosition in the 
 bottom of the boat. The fact that a body weighs less when submerged is as familiar to these 
 untutored children of r^ature as to the most learned jirofessor of natural ]ihilosophy. 
 
 So much has been written of the.se people which gives the impression that they are slug- 
 gish in ilis|)osition and intellectually inferior that I feel a natural hesitancy in advancing 
 opinions (formed, it is true, by a short ex|K!rience) whiidi would seem to refute the tales of 
 their stupidity. The fact remains, howevei-, that in all my dealings with the natives of this 
 region, emiiracintr those from Cape Prince of Wales to Point Hope, ■and including the NoJitak, 
 Kowak, ami Selawik tribes, I iiave never yet seen a more iiahtntllf/ intelligent set of men. 
 They seem remarkably quick to adajit tiieniseives to the wants and luibits of civilized men; 
 and if progress is the result of intelligence there .seems to be no good reason why certain civil- 
 izing insti'uction shoulil not be given them in order tliid theii' condition might be iiiq)roved 
 and the hard struggle for existence robbed of some of its terroi's. 
 
 As a genera.l rule (I might almost call it an univei'siil one), the initives are honest, good- 
 natured, and alw.iys hospitable, and if a1 times they jirove mendacious, it would s"em charita- 
 ble to belie'e fliati this dellection from the moral code is caused l)y a desire to make it j)leasant 
 for the traveler temi)orarily made their guest. What these ^leople need, however, is a little 
 instruction on the benefits of habits of cleanliness. At present some of their customs are ili.s- 
 gusting beyond description; liut they are easily induced to change their habits of life when it 
 is known that they are the source of annoyance to the white man. During the time I wa« 
 absent from the launch I was necessarily thrown in very dose contact with the Indians, and I 
 found it oidy necessary to nu'iition any of their habits as being objectionable to have it imnnv 
 diately dropped. It was my custom, in order to avoid the vernun (with which they are liber- 
 {lUy sui)])lied), to take a hath every uiglit and make a complete change in uiy uudcrclothing. 
 H. Ex. 15J 7 
 
60 CRUISE OF THE STEAM KK t'OKVVIN. 
 
 The natives iioticcil lliis. jiiul cxpn'sscil siirpriso tluit .iCtcr lu'inj,' wi't all tlay I should <k>lil>- 
 ('i'ut('l)' K" ill'" •!'(' cnld water iiisleiul of j^eltiii^- tlinioiiKlily wfirni and dry l)et'oro goii.f; to 
 sleep. Hut wlien Tali-tali-rok uxphviiieil to tlieni my reasons tliey immediately l)i'j,'an to jnd- 
 tate my jD'aeliee, and tlie (dianj^e in tlieii' appearance was truly most astoniHliin^ as w.'ll as 
 j;ral ilyiMj; dnrin^ 11 le slioi t time we were toi;etlier. 
 
 When I lirst 8iiw Tuli-tah-inU, in the summer of lJss-1. iu' wasu j;ood specimen ot' the aver- 
 aye Es(|nimau.\ huntei', l)ut in cnntaet with white men he rapidly improved, and when we 
 parted a mure respeclalile or cleaner looUinj; man c()idd not lie ^^elected trom an ordinary crowd 
 of inlellij;ent workinf^men in any city of the United States. A pi'e.sent of a half-d<ii2cn towels 
 and a har of soa|) seeme<l to please liini more than anything else 1 •{ave him. 
 
 ilnsl <)|»posite our camping place a small sti'eam runs into the Kowak frnm the soutli. and 
 from the hijj;h hanks of the river we coidtl see it was the outlet of several small lakes some 
 three or four ndles inland. Mr. Towu.send and I look our k"'"< '^'"'' K'"ttiuj; into our small 
 hirch-hafk canoes, strui'k out for these lakes to hunt for ducks, which the old women assui'ed 
 us were ahundant in that direction. V\'e had heconie <pdte e.spei't in haiidlin)^' the rather 
 ■■ ticklish " caades hy this time, and we soon ci)vei'e(| t he (lista,n<-(^ lietween the river and the 
 lakes. Mere we found al)unflant sport, ami after securing-' a dnzeii delicious little widgeons 
 and teal we staffed on our way hack tucaniit. Half way down the narrow stream which led 
 to the river we suddenly came upon a thick n{ jfeese. ,'ind as lliey i^ot up we lired into them. 
 < )ne or two Were killed at the first shot and the tlnck liew oil' at I'l^ht anj^les to <iur coui'se. 1 
 incautiiiusly lired ;inain, this time '• liroadside on." and in a. mnnu'nt fnuiid myself stru^'^linK' 
 in till' widei' with my hoat upset and ^-aine scattered iiver the surface of the sticam in the 
 wildest (imfusidii. With Mr. Townsend's help, hnwcNcr. I was eiiahled li> extricate jn,\.'-clf 
 ficiin my unplciisant position with no injury except a rather cold ducking'. 
 
 The incident is relatecl to il'-istrate the character of the small " one mau"ciinoes wliich 
 ,\re in ((imniiin use on the Kowak. No more graceful tiling in tiie way of water craft can pos- 
 silily lie imagined thiin these canoes. Thi'V arc from ei;^ht to ten feet lonfj;. and from twelve 
 to lifteen inches wide on the watei' line. The stem and stern pieces nvv lonu;. and so fashioned 
 .•is to form, with tln^ rail, a, fj;raceful curve. ;;i\in,i; l<i the whole a linisli whi(di would delight 
 the eye of t he most exact injj;' canoeist. The thin liirch hark is fastene(| to t he frame hy nu'ans 
 of strips of willow liark in the most iiifjeuious maimer, and the seams are made ti>(;ht hy ndi- 
 liinj,' them with nielteil spruce j;um. On the lower river t liese canoes are never made, and liut 
 seldoni seen, as liirch liark is not to he olitaiued, and the natives use the cijuunou kyack or 
 seai-skiu canoe, common alonn' the sea-coast. 
 
 The river at this point is exceedini^ly tortuous and altojj;efher uinnterestin;;. Its course 
 is thi'oU!i;li the low tundra lands, whicli ai'e liai'e <if trees except on the immediate river hank, 
 and as the month of t!ie river is ajijiroached even these <lisap]ieai' and only rank K'nss and 
 stunte(l willows appear. On the moi'uint;; of Auj^ust •.'•.', after yet liiij,'' astronomical ohser vat ions 
 us usual, we lia.'le yood-liye to our Indian friends of the village oppositi' and steamed away down 
 stream. 
 
 Dnriny I he day we ohserved many hair seal in the ri\ cr. and I am inclined to helieve tlu>y 
 come u]i stream to .avoid their enemy, the narwhale, which ireiiuent the waters of Kotzehue 
 Soiuid. At ."• o'clock we passed out from the Kowak liy its westernmost mouth, and our eyes, 
 yi'own t ired of the monotonous shores, wei'eylailili'ned hy the siyht of tlu' crisp, sjiarkliny waves 
 of llolham inlet. 
 
 A hi'isk eastei'ly wind was hlowiny and I nnnle haste to I'eacli the |»rotection which a. sand- 
 spit lyiny at the eutran<-e to Selawik Lake alt'orded. and there we camped foi' tlu' niyht. The 
 wind rapidly increased and shifted to tho soutlicast, so that a heavy sea soon hegan running in 
 the lake and inlet. The surf heat heavily on the other side of our |irotectinn' sand-spit, hut 
 within our little hasin the water was undistui'hed. 
 
 A i)arty of natives on their way to their wintei- honu's on the Selawik River encamped 
 near our camp, aiul from them T learned that all of the Indians hail deserted the rendezvous at 
 H<jtham Inlet and wuiv now on their way home; Mr. ^IcLem-gan had returned from his 
 
H. E» I5j,49 , 
 
CRU IS K ( > F Tl I E STEAM Ell C'( )UW IN. 51 
 
 f«X|»lt>ralii)ii ul' tlio NuiUaU. tuid that llw ( nririii liad licni seen oil Cape .Jlussoiii a few duya 
 lii'lon', nil luT way imrdi, iiml lia<l Icl't wonl she wduM iituni Ity Si'iitciuli.'i' I. 
 
 or our siihscijiii'iit u|H'r,ilinii.s llicii' is little of iittfit'sl to i-,'la(c. Wf sloi)}>e(l at this place 
 loitj^ ciioLijfli to p't a si'l ol' olisi'fvalioiis. Haviii;; ^ni llic laiuu'li in sailing trim again, we pro- 
 ceeded leisurely down Die inlet, sound in j,' alon^t lie shores and exandnin^ tlieditt'erent eiitranees 
 to the Kowak, of wliieli we noted tilteen, and on Au^nist ".'l we reuched a saiid-spit twelve 
 nules from tlieeiitraneelo ilolliiini Inlet, upon wliicli Lieutenant Stoney had jdai i d lilssiij)j)lies, 
 ai\<l there found the A^'.c/f/o/c/-. whieh had retmin'd from U[t the river for another load, with 
 LieiittMiani Stoney in comnnind. Here also was Mr. Mei,eiiej^aii, who had heen anxiously 
 awaitini^the f '(>/•;»•/«, and came this far to meet me on my Wiiy down the inlet. Ahout one. 
 hundred and seventy-li vi^ Indians lieloimini; to the Kowak and S(>lawik River region iir.d 
 encamped on the spit on their way home from the remlezvous. The howling of some fifty or 
 seventy-live im|iatient do^s made nij^ht hid(nns; hnl the many tires alon>^ the heaeh. the 
 hune hoats turned o\-er so .-is to form tents, .and the crowds of Indians arounil the (ires, foi mcd 
 a scene at onci? picluresijue ami novel. 
 
 Finally, on Auj^nst 'i."*. we purled conipany with Lieutennnt Stonoy'w party, after trunr- 
 ferriiii^ to him several smid: Mrlirlesof outlit which wimld lie of .service to him, and our ex]i!- 
 dition no\'- turned toward llolii;nn Inlet and Kot/el>ue Sound. We arrive<l satVly at (he ren- 
 dezvous and took up our old ([uai'ters in the little layooii called hy me Hefn^e Lagoon, and. 
 in commemoration of the nieeliuH' "I' .McLeneujan's and my jKirty, we called the I'am)) Keunimi. 
 
 A few natives yet I'cmaineil at the rendezvous, ami were soon on harid to welconu' us. 
 One old fellow no doubt hail heen a (dose ohserscr of (lie white men. for he hroii^ht with him 
 and couiplai'f'ntly oHered for oni' delectation .i copy of llari)er's Weekly sonu' twenty years 
 old. with the letpiesl thai al'tei' reading? it w would return it. Soiiie one had fjivon this old 
 fellow ii hiijh silk hat. and the solieitnde with which he stowc<l it away under the coverinj; of 
 his lioat on the sli;;litest appearance of a shower was truly aniusin>j;. 
 
 While here We had .an opportunity of witnessing a most singiil.ar jx'rformance. much 
 resenililing a spiritualistic si'iincc. The wife of one of the mitives. a ))le;ir-eye(l old hag sixty 
 or sixty-live yenrs old. was oliservc(l to droji suddenly on the gidund. and when wi' ran nji io 
 ascertain thiM'.ause she was to;dl ap|iearances in a, dead laint. Her lips wei-e blue and (eelli 
 .set hard togetlu'C. while her Inlmred lirejithing produced a light frolli upon hei- lips. T!ie eyes 
 Were (dosed, imt when I o[ieued them the pujiils were muidi eimtracted. and the whole appear- 
 ance of the eye was ex])vessionless. Her hushand immediat(dy ran In her. and passing a stoat 
 deer-skin tlnmg or strap arcaiiid her head. securi>d it to the end of a stout stall' alxmt six feet in 
 length. He then sat down neai- the wonnin"s head, and bi'ought the stall' aci'oss his thighs in 
 such a way as to make it a level' of the lirst (da.ss. Then ho Ixfgan in a chaiding sort of tone 
 to speak (o sonn- s[iirit of the dead and to ask (juestions concerning his ]a'obabl(> success (hiring 
 the jipproaching hunting season. When a (piestion was to be answered, he paused and tried 
 to lift the head of the Woman fi'oni the groui'd. H' he siicceeded in accom|ilishing this feat, 
 the answer was c(jnstn\ed to be //cs. and if not. the contrary was to he undc.'rstood as the answt l. 
 This performance went on for soine time, and suidi was the ft>rce used by the man to lift the 
 poor creatni'e's head that at times J t'eiired her nc'k would be broken. 
 
 Dui'ing tlu^ .i(''(nifc. if we in.iy so cill it. the nwin had his I'itle and hunting-knife brought 
 and jdaced near by. for the purpose of ascertaining theii- good oi' bad (pialities. When all 
 had been .-iskiMl jirid aiiswereil. the thong w;is removed from the woman's head, and, with a few 
 piisses exactly similar to those eomnioidy used by mind readers, the woman was restoreil to 
 consciousness. For a. wdiih^ she seemed da/.e<l and unsteady, but soon connnenced to narrate 
 what she had seen while in the trance. She i laimeil to have been far away in the deer country, 
 nnd to hav(! se(>n relati\-es und friends of those )iresent. wdio lis1ene(l with rapt attention, and 
 with the ai>j)earance of |«eifecl conlidence in her ver.ieity. to the messages and news which she 
 brought to them. 
 
 Witliont attempting to explain this curious exhibition of second .sight, I leave it for 
 
52 CRUISIO OK TIIK STKAMER COItWIN. 
 
 othors to ai';{ii<s simply HtaUiiK. I'.v wiiy of tcstiiiiDiiy, tlmi (o me tln^ woniiiii st^mntMl wiiictirt^ iih 
 slit) wiis luoMt wrtiiinly uiiconscidiis diuiiij^ tlio Ki"«'iit<^i' portiuii. if not all, of tlio nennce. 
 
 On tlic •■iiitli of Au>;n.st the Conciii was rciiortcd oil" Capo Blossuni, and wo innnndiatoly 
 liroivii t-anip antl stcanii'd owl 1o join iii'r. 
 
 Tlio Hca was snntotli, and we crossed tlm bar safely and reaclicd Cape Blossom about noon; 
 hut the ('(iririii had not stopped, and we were ronipelled to camp a>;ain and await ln>r retufn, 
 which I conlidently hoped would he next day. She had doul tl ss rin; in, aiiv! i^ei'ing uolidn;; 
 of us had pidceeded In Cliai.iisso Island for a harlior ilurin>^ the nif^lit. 
 
 This sujiposit ion proved correct, for next morning at (!.;(() ^he was ohservi^d steaming in 
 toward Cape Blossom from the south, and at H.;i(i we broke our last camp, and the sea bein^ 
 smooth we soon were all safely on board of the (Uinriti once more. I immediately made a 
 short report of my exjilorations to Captain Healy; and so ended the second expedition for the 
 exi»loratiou of the Kowak River, conducted undc^r the direction of tlm Revenue Marine Service. 
 
 Respectfully snbndtted. 
 
 JOHN V. (UNTWELL. 
 Third Ijiriilciiinil. Hi-rcinic Murine, 
 
 III ilKiri/f of c.i'iH'ilil iim. 
 
H. Ri. 1J1, 49 I 
 
EXPLORATION OF THE iNOATAK RIVKR, ALASKA. 
 
 By S. B. M. T^Ti]]SrECrA]Sr. 
 
 53 
 
I.KTTKII orTHANSMITTAI.. 
 
 V. S. Hkvknik Stkamku Kish. 
 .SV«// Fniiirixit), Cal.. Ihii-iiihcr M. issri. 
 SiH: \n (.lM.,lioiic.. I,, yc.ir onl.T .lalr.l .luly I. Ihm:,. ,liivc(iiiK nu- I(m'X|.I..it llic Nniiluk 
 River. Aliisk'ii, I liiivc the lioimi' Id siitoiiit the Idilinviiij; rc|iipri. 
 
 Ill liii' |.r..|iiriil(.;i uf (his work I lia\-.' ImIhuimI iiii.|,.r iiKiu.v .li.sjKlv)m(;iK<'s. Iinviii- 1 n on 
 
 iictiv.' (Inly (Inriii- tlir ^nsdcr iH.rliuM of Ihr (iiiic. iind willioiit uiiy racllifi.-H I'or^oin^r ||„, 
 wirk |ir()|)rrl.v. In view of lli.' Iinrrir.l m.-mncr wilh wliici, lli,. work wiis iMvpiir...!, luiviiiK 
 Uccii ordt-rt'l to,M..,i hcrorc its final coniiilclion. I lriiM( llinl .In.' consi.lrralion will he shown. I 
 liiiv.' .Mily 1o t'xjdvss my sinnTc lliiinkH for kind ussistimcc in lln' work ..f revision. 
 
 Tnisfinj,' that the r.isiilts of tl xpiMlifjon will iiic.l yonr ai>|iroviil. 
 
 I ifinuiii, very r<'H|ii'<'tfully. your olioilicnt .servant, 
 
 H. H. Mcf.KNKUAN. 
 Srrttiiil Assinhiiil I'hitiiiifrr. ('. S /,' ,1/ 
 
 Ctipt. M, A. IlKAI.V. 
 
 ('i>iniiiiin<lin<i Re re II II !• SI ct nil I' r Conn' II, Sail Fniiirisio. Ciil. 
 
 r)6 
 
EXPLOKATION OP TIIK NOATAK inVER. ALASKA. 
 
 insroitiiM.. 
 
 Cuii<'<>niiii>{ a I'l'^inii Huunkiiowii In tlu' wnilil unDic iiilcriiirnf Arctic A liiMkii. Ilirrci" littlx 
 to Miy fi'oni II liiHiurintI |M>int <>t' vii>sv. Iiiii.:niiirli ivm tlit* liintiiry <<( iiiiy t°*'Ki<>ii diid'H I'miii tlii> 
 t'lvi'lit'Ht i'\|t|(ii'uliiin iir lilt' Miiiiii'. tliiil III' Niii'llirr'n AIn.skii iiiiiy li<< sitiil t<i \»> in IIh inl'micy. All 
 tliiil |niitiiiii III lilt' 'I'l'iiiliiry lyin^ mutli nl' IIm' ,\rttif circle, <'iiin|ii'isiii«;, in iuuihI iiimilifiM, 
 lilKitit iiiii' liuiiilit'il Hiiil Iwi'iity-livK tliniiHtiiiil si|iii»ri' iiiilt'M, li.tN Ihmmi ii vhsI Ki'i>Ki''t|iliii'Hl lilniik, 
 the iiiii|iN III' wiiirli r'l'^iiiii lit'x i'i>lit>vt>i| mily hy viixii<< liiii's i-t<pr(m«iiitiuK t'lc Hii|ip<isi'i| riviTH nC 
 till' I'litiiilry. 
 
 Till' lew wiilfiM wlii> ri'Vi'it Id tin- sul>.jri'< Ki-iii'iiilly icmiviii mIIi'iiI (•uiict'niiiin il.nriit iiinMt 
 <>tr«>t' (iiily II t'dW c'mjt'ctiii'i'N iK^iiriliiiK \\h |iriiliuli|f luitiiri' iiml t'xtciil. 
 
 Pi'lnilV, wliuHi' i'xliiins1ivi< n'pnrl mi tin' " l'ii|iiiliiliuii iitiil Ili'sinn'cfH nl" AluMku" is niir 
 liitt'st iiiitliiii'ily, ilisiiiiMsi's till' Hiiliji'i'l ill ii I'i'W wnnls. uimI. mhm' Imi'i' iiii'iiliuii nl' llif liirl lliiti 
 tilt' Kiiwiik Hiiil Nniltuk Kivi'CH \vi'rt« kimwii to «'xi«t. In< wiys iiutliiiiK on tin- siiliji'i't. 
 
 'i'lic I'urlii'Ml cxiiliiiiiliiiii ill Ni'i'tliwi'Mtcrii AlaMkimr wliirli Wf Iuim- uii_\ rrrnid diiti's I'mni 
 till' yi'iir Isl.'i; III Hull tiiiH' Lii'iitniinil Ki>l/.i'lnii', of tlic Itnssiiin iiiivy. |ii'in'tiiilt'il lln' ItfriiiK 
 Sti'ivitH, and <'X)iloii'<l tlii' Hniiiid wliiili Ik'iu'h Imh iihiih', tn^ctln'r with all tlii' ciiiist ri'Kioii um 
 far as ('a|it' Li.sliiiriic. AI'tiT liis tiiiu' wi- liiwti no Inrtlii-r rt'cord until tlic voyun*' of ('a|itii!n 
 Ki't'i'licy, |{. N., vvlio ('X|iliiii'd lln' I'lilirti An-fii- i'oiihI in tlif ynir IN'.'.'). Tlii' Niirvt'y.s mid rliartH 
 iniidi' liy lliis nnictT wi-ro vrry rompli'tn and ri'inivin IfudinK iinllinritifs ivt tlic |ircst'nt day. 
 I't'ti'olV Ih iinaci'diintulily Nilciit ri'icardiii>< llic woi-k of lliis raiiioiis nuviKiitnr. ns well asotlicrH 
 jironiincntly idi'iitilicd with the <'oiintry. ami apimicntly favors the work of hJH own country- 
 men only. 
 
 . AIiIioiikIi Hcccliey explored .'11111 named ilotham Inlet, it does not uppear t lint hcdiscovered 
 either of the larj^e riverw liowin^c into it; iit leiixl., he iimke.s no tneiitioii of the fact in his report. 
 Since the time of these early explorers the rej^ion has lieeii visited Ity many ailventiirous 
 whalemen ami others, and the entire coast, as far as the nioiilh of the Mackeii/.ie UImt, \h 
 known to many of them. No jiortioii of that inhospitahle coast is ho little known iih K<it/,(diiio 
 Sound; the vast slmals which mark lli;it lioily of water, to^jelher wilh the lack of commercial 
 incentive, has tnriied the tide of eiittrprise in aiiolhi'V direilinn and comparatively few whale- 
 men are acijiiainted with the rcjcioii. 
 
 The first attempt to exploj-e tlie interior of tliat country ilates from the year iss:!. UnriiiK 
 the summer of that year Lieut. (1. M. Stoiiey, [>. S. N., then on hoard the Coiiriii. on special 
 duty from the Navy Departmeiil. was dispatched to the head of Hothani inlet in a lioat 
 manned from tht^ cutter. After an ahsence of ten days he returned with the informatinn that 
 a larK" river, known iw tlie Kowak. was dischari;ed intotlie head of the estuary. 
 
 Althou>;h the existence of this river was uiidoiilitedly known heforc Stoney's visit, there is 
 no record of any attempt at exploration jirevioiis to Ids own. and the information he furnished 
 con('ornin>; the lu'ohahle ext^'nt of the viviW wiu« the first autlientic account ever driven. 
 
 In the followiiif^ year an expedition nmh'!' the command of Lieut. J. ('. Cantwell. and to 
 
 which the writer was attached, was ilispatclied from the Corin'u to exjilore the same river. 
 
 After an nbHcnco of si.x weekr. tlie paity returned, liavinj^ penetrated tlie region about thrp«^ 
 
 hundred n»ih>s. Lieiitenant Stoney also explored the river tlm sanio distanco. Tlie acoounts 
 
 H. Ex. IQ3 ti 57 
 
58 CRUISK OF THK STKAMKlt I'OinVIN. 
 
 fiiraishtxJ by tht>H«' fxpcditions (•(iii<'«>niiiiK tlm ^('(t^riniliy and lo|«ij^rii|iliy of llH'cuuntiy wcrn 
 tilt' first nvor K'vi'ii. iiml willi IIh'si' cxiicililions wiis iiiuuKurntcd morn cxtciidi'd work in the 
 following year. 
 
 'rinTc WHS HiiotlitT river, liuwcvcr, known in the nutivt' lonj^uc as the Noiitak, disidiaixin^ 
 into till- fstiiary ulioiit lliiily miles iiorlli of <lui Kowak, and wliiili srcnied t^i luivc ('scapi'd 
 notice. Altlioiiirh this river is tiKured va>^iu>iy upon the latest maps of Alaska, it> was known 
 only from native aeeonnts, for there is no reconlof its ever havini; lieen visited liy wiiite nu'n. 
 
 Tile traders of the Yukon lliver, whose knowledge of the country entith's them to lieliof. 
 informed the writer that they knew nothinj^concerniuK it. Indians in their employ. Iiowmcr. 
 had tradi'd with a trihe livinx on a northern rivor. whicli. they asserted, mijtht have been llie 
 Noiltak, hut aside from this statement nothing could he learned concerning it. 
 
 These facts are stated to indicate how utterly iilank was that vast region evi'U to those hesl 
 informed n,>oii tlu; siihj(>(*t, and may convey a slight idea of ilu>doiilit.san(l un.xioties attending 
 the Work of exploration. 
 
 (n:<)<}KM'lll(.\l,. 
 
 Before entering upon a detailed desciiption of the Noiltak Kiver and the tei-ritory through 
 which it tlowH, it is tlioiight that a brief review of thi> geographical and topograpiucal f»'atures 
 of the country wouhl alVord a clearei' insight into the snbject. 
 
 As we approach Kot/ebm' Sound fi'oni the ilii'ection of the Heriiig Straits, a long line of 
 dark mountains gradually rises on the eastern hori/.on and .seemingly I'S tends to the \ cry shores 
 of the sea. A closei' approach, however, reveals the fact that they arc some distance iidand 
 and are separated from the sea by a |>lain three or four miles in wiilth. 
 
 On tln> charts of the region these well-known landnnu-ksare known as the Mnlgrave Mills, 
 and through which the Noiltak Hows immeiliately before discharging into the estuary. ( )pen- 
 ing inland from Kot/ehuc Sound and connected by a neck alioul three miles in widi h is a body 
 of water known as Hotham Inlet, into which the Kowak and Noiltak |{ivers are dis(dmrgcd. 
 Kor the most part the estuary is extrenu'ly sludlow, a IViiture due to tin- vast (|uaiitities of 
 alluvial matter ileposited there by the rivers. 
 
 As ali'eady stated, the region imme(liately above the mouth of the Noiltak is mountainous, 
 a featui-t< shared liy no other river in Noi'lhei'U Alaska. Ueforc entering the inlet the ri\ei 
 divides in a V-shaped delta, the arms of which are about e<|nal in volume. Uniting abo\c 
 the Noiltak .'ilniost iiiimediately enters the liighhinds of the coast range; after p;issing Ihi'ougii 
 it trends in a northerly direction and enters a tint section of territory, throughout which it is 
 divided intoama/.eof ciiannels. The basin is bounded (Ui either side by parallel ranges of 
 liills. aiioiit tell miles distant, which, as we proceed, become higher, gradually iissiiuiing the 
 shape and size of moiinlains. This section of the river is about one hundred miles in length, 
 ami is characterized throughout by .shallow water and a rapid current. .\ slight growth of 
 
 timber nsisling chietly of spru/e and Cottonwood, is found along the inimediate bjinks of 
 
 the river. 
 
 As we apiuoacli the head of this section the mountains rapidly converge toward the ri\er, 
 nnd eventually coiiline it to a channel of ordinary dimensions. The Noiilak now enters the 
 third Section of its length, namely, the mountain district. After passing through ihetJraiid 
 CaiTons, which iiiaik the entrance, the ranges .-igaiii ili\erge. forming a be.iutifiil \alley from 
 three to five miles in width. The ranges on either side ai'e not c(Uitiiiuous. but arc broken 
 in placw plea.sanlly diversifying' the scenery. They have, in general, an easterly trend, and 
 follow the river for about one hundred miles. 
 
 The fourth, or upper section, comprises that jiart of Ihe river lying cm tho table-lands of 
 the interior, and exceeds in lengtii that of all Ihe lower sections combined. As may be interred 
 from the nani(>, this region consists of an elevated plateau, rolling occasionally into hills and 
 then stretching away into vast ti'actsof moorland. 
 
 The river is feil liere by a number of lakes, none of which, lioweA'or, are largo or inipor- 
 taiit. There is no timbei-yf any description in the region, and the llora is limited to the hardier 
 varieties uf plant life. 
 
II. Kx. 151 4<) ■ 
 
 <ji,t»?*%";*i*'i*'^'.^,;j:-,. 
 
 ,i; ,4 ' 'Alt.' ■'/„' 
 
 
 K^ 
 
 W Hi ''■ Wk I ■ 'S ' 
 
 -^ijg^g^ 
 
 
 
 
 r^-, 
 
 -itoem 
 
 
 M05»tNO.CU.N.X 
 
 liSyl IMt) lUDAKKAS. 
 
 THRKIillOI.KU HIDAkKA. 
 
II. V.\ lii, 19 I 
 
 i 
 
 4 
 
 -inu"- 
 
 i 
 
 •i,'-^'/'>' 
 
 "1 
 
 
 niDAKKA, I'ORT ( I.ARKNCIv 
 
 BP?S/-;" 
 
 :!K*7K*i«!(>l«W 
 
 HIUAKKAII, IIOTIIAM INLET. 
 
CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 59 
 
 Ti would l)tMlifticul1 (() i>ii'tiin>;;riipliicully 11m( iiilixspilaUIt'couiilry, n land tliiit indicuched 
 witli the riiiiiM of siiiimicr jiimI hiii'lccl in the snows of winter. Ncur llif )n')Mi(|nHi'ti'rs tlu- river 
 dividoH into a nninln'r of liranclics. isiclt of wliiih lias its kouith iu n wniill lakt*. 
 
 Owiu}^ to tile iiccnliui' natni'c of tlic country llic river is sulsject to sudden and jjfrcat 
 cliani^cs in volume, i^'ioods are of eonnuou occurrenn.'; tlie iii!i!ieii;>e raiufitl! of tlie Kuuiiufr 
 frnpieutly causes the river to overflow its lianks and inundate tlie surrouudiuK couuti'y. 
 
 Tile Noiltiik" is not navipiMe for otlier tliau native canoes; tlie many raiii<ls, c(mibiued with, 
 the shallow water and rapid cniTeut, reuderw navij^'alion wi|-li laix*'!' Ixiats (|uite out of the 
 question. 
 
 In ref^ard to the possibility of it portage fi'oui the headwaters of tho Noiitak to t.liose of the 
 Colville Rivei, careful iuijuiry among the natives failed ti> elicit auy infornuition concerning 
 it. luileed, if such does exist, it is ])roi)ahly too long and ditlicnlt to accomplish under oidinary 
 circumstances. It is almost impossii)le to travel over the tundra laiids <luring the summer >ea- 
 son. hut it is((nite pos.sible that the same could he easily accomplished diu-iug the winter hy 
 sledgin;;. 
 
 The portage from the headwaters of the Noatak to those of the Kowak. initives assert, 
 can be made in om> day, a fact of much geograjdiical interest. It woiihl apjiear from this 
 that the rivers are jiaivillel and drain adjoining valleys. There are. liowevei-, no features in 
 common between therivei-s. or between the valleys drained by them — a fact which. c<insi(lering 
 their i»ro.\iniity, is very I'emarkab'". (hie of the most interesting fads dexcloped by a com- 
 parison is the distribution of limber. Along the waters of the Kowak, spriu-e, the ]iredomi- 
 mitiug variety, is very abundant, and fre(piently attains a diameter of two feet. On the 
 Noiitak, however, it is ipiite the reverse, and the timber belt is confined to a very limited poi'- 
 tion of the valley. The caiisi' of this marked dillereiice is possibly owing to the elevated 
 nature of tlie latter rcKion, and possibly also to some pec\diarity in the soil. 
 
 It is to be lio|ied that the Work of exploration ma>' contribute somewhat to oiir knowledge 
 of Northern Alaska, and tlml some of its problems have been satisfavtorily solved. 
 
 SWniiATIVK AM) nESCUII'TIVK. 
 
 On the morning of July '4, lKSr),the United States revenue steamer ('oririii ciime to anchor 
 otV Kotham Inlet, and orders detailing me to t^Kplor^^ the No.'ltak Ki\er were recciveil from the 
 commaniling ollicer. 
 
 In anticipation of that event, all preparations had been previously made; the caiioe, stoi'es. 
 instruments, and general onttil, ui-cessarily limited, were brought ou deck in readiness for 
 immediati' depai'ture. The i-iiioe. or three-hatch bidarka, such as is used liy the nati\esof the 
 Aleutian Islands, was procured at Omialaska. It was twenty-seven feet in length and of about 
 two feet beam; the Io|j portion was, with the exception of the three circular hatches, entirely 
 closed. 
 
 Soon after <)iii' arrival ;it Hothani Inlet a luiniber of natives boarded the ro/v/'///. and. 
 with the hope of obtaining furthi'r information in regard to the nature of the river, some of 
 the priucijial men were as.seiiibled in the pilot-house of (lii- steamer. Although many of their 
 number had traveled u))!)!! the Noiitak, it was exceedingly dillicult to obtain any detinite infor- 
 mation concerning' it. The river was declai'e<l to be \ery swift. shal4ow. and <lil1icnll to n;ivi- 
 gate, and that it would be imi)ossible to do so in the bidarka. 
 
 Unfortunately, the service.) of an intei'preter could not be olilained, .although my own 
 slight knowleiljj;e of the langr.age was suilicieut for all jiractical p\irposes. I was thus forced 
 to abandon my original intention of emi»loying natives only, and having i)eeii granted the 
 privilege of selecting a man from the crew, I named Seauian Nidsou, who volunteered Uw the 
 duty, to accoiii])any nu\ 
 
 The services of a native g\iide cf)uld not be obtained, anil, although the undertaking was 
 a desperate venture. I determined to go without native assistance o1 any kind, and felt that we 
 must depeud wholly upon ourselves for thi" success of the undertaking. 
 
 At I0..'i<>a. m. the cutter was lowered, and our outfit was pa.ssed into it. After seeing 
 H. Ex. 1511 11 
 
60 CRUISE OP THE STKAMEU COUWIN. 
 
 nvt'ryfliiiiK in rciidincHH. I tf)()k Iravf of tlif ciiptiiiii iind odictTs. iuhI. iiccoiiipiiDiiMl liy Pilcit, 
 Doii^litHM iiiid Siirjjf'uii \'<'iiiHiis, stiirtril I'nr tin- iintivc rt'iidczvoiiM at MoIIdiiii lidcl. r|i()ii 
 urrival tlu>r« we joini'd Li<'iiU>iiant Ciiiitwcirs party, wliicli had prcccdt'rl uh in tlif inorninK; 
 hilt, liaviiij? iiotliiii^f to detain lis, wc dctiTiniiU'd to start for tlic river without deliiy. The 
 moment of our liiial |iarlinK liad now conie, and, iiiKh'r the circiinistance, kiiowinK notliiiiKol 
 I lie (hin>?ers before lis, it was not a pleasant one. With the appeiu'anee of cheerfulness, how- 
 ever, we hade them farewell, and resolntel;, turned the eanoe towards the north. 
 
 Th. ''ene whirh presented itself on that heaiitifiil afternoon was one to lie rememln'n'd. 
 On the o])posite shoi'i' of the inlet, directly ahead of lis, lay the dark and ^riin-lookin^ " Hills;'' 
 on oiir rixht hand, stretchin^j away toward the south and fadini; in the distance, lay thi^ iinnif- 
 tled waters of Hotliam Inlet, while on our left, where the sea and sky seemed to meet, lay the 
 e(|ually i-alni waters of the Arctic ( )cean. 
 
 After following the shore-line f<»r ahont three miles, 1 delerniined to land on the head- 
 land which marks the entrancn to the inlet and obtain bearingH of the nnaitli of the Noiitak. 
 According t'> the view presented the river enters the estuary throiiufh two large branches of 
 about eipial size, and after taking the lieariiig <^f the outlet on the extreme right, W(! resumed 
 our padtlles. hoping to gain tlie entrance before nightfall. 
 
 In its passage across the inlet the river channel is well d*>tined. and froipient soundings 
 developed froiiitwoto three fat he mis of water the eiit ire distance. ( )ii either side, however, 
 it was very shallow, and at a low stage of water the sand-bars are fre(|ueiitly exjiosed. At 
 this place the estuary is about live miles in width, and as we neared the eiilrance to the I'iver. 
 long sand-spits, covered with the di'diris v( the spring freshets, extended fully a mile on either 
 side of the cliiinnel. 
 
 The shore on both sides is very low and marshy, and during exti'eme high water the 
 entire delta is siilunerged. A scattered growth of Arctic willows, extending to the water's 
 edge, and an occasional spruce were the only visible suggestions of timber. 
 
 About four miles above tile month the bjiiiks becjime somewhat higher and tlie timber 
 mm-e plentiful, although the latier was of ii very stunted growth. 
 
 The day was now far spent and we were commencing to feel the fatigue attendant iijion 
 our new duties. At'.) p. in. we halted for the night, and pitched our tent upon the bank of the 
 river. Here we were greeted elVusively by our old friends, the mo.s(|uitoes, that swarmed 
 i>,round in prodigious numbers, and the warmth of their greeting was such as to detract con- 
 siderably from our bodily comfort. Former exjieriem-e, however, had taught nie how to deal 
 with them, so that we sull'ereil but litlh^ from their .attacks. 
 
 Thus the lin-'i day of the journey pas.sed. and. encouraged by the ]iros])ect. we awaited the 
 coming daw., to plunge deeper into the wilderness and unearth, if jiossible. some of the .secret.s 
 which nature had guarded so well. 
 
 The result of our exertions was not felt until (he next morning, when our stitl'eneil limbs, 
 unaceust<mied to the work, were brought painfully into notice. The labor of breaking camp 
 and prejiaring for the day's journey was siillicieiit to relax our muscles, ami we were soon 
 vigorously at work with our paddles. 
 
 As we advanced the banks became much higher and were quite thickly timbered with 
 sjiruce. After gaining the head of tlie didta, the Noiitak is broad and st.ately, and has from 
 three to live fathoms of water tlirouglioiit the (•liannel. There is no current of any imiiortancc 
 in this ])ortioii of tin- river, and in conseiiueiice our progri'ss was iiiiite rapid. 
 
 F<u' the lirst eight miles of its length tlii^ Noiitak has a northerly trend. The sui'roundiug 
 country gradually rises and finally breaks into the rugged coast mountains. About noon we 
 gained a iioiiit where tlit^ riv(>r turns abruptly to the soulhwest, and I lauded upon a large 
 i.siand t(j obtain a meridian idtitude. One of the most reniarkablt> features of the .scene is the 
 two isolated mountains off the right bank of the river, the bases of which are about three 
 miles distant. The ])eculiar location of these jieaks, their lofty summits and i)rec4i)it<>us sides, 
 form one of thi^ most interesting sights in the region. 
 
 After obtaining an altitude and halting sulHciently long to boil cofft^e, we resumed our 
 journey. We now entered the foothills of the range, and having no opposing current, made 
 
OKl'ISK OK THK STKAMKH COKWIN. 61 
 
 vory rapiti lu'iulwiiy. Alumt four miles iiliovn our liiiltiiiK pliu" tlm river ajjiiin luriui<l to tiie 
 north Hiiil wiiM (liviileil by uii islnml into wliiit iiiipeiired to lie tiiice ciiiinnels. lIiiviriK selected 
 the one cm the extreme riKlit and iiHcended it riilly ii mile, we found to our cluiKriu thiit it was 
 
 nmrely a " Idind," and wen* ohli^jeil to retract r course to tiie main river aKain. The stream 
 
 on the left is tiie main <hannel, the others heinj? navigable at liiK'h water only. Having righted 
 ourselves, we continued without further adventure <iurinK tlu' day. 
 
 The hanks of the stnwim uosv JH'cami! (juite |)reciiiitous, and in several places rocky clilTs 
 from til'ty to a hundred feet in heiKht. rose from the water's ed^e. The river also liecanu' very 
 niiu'h uai'rower, hut steadily n^taiued the depth of tiiree fathoms. A slrouj^ headwind ri-u- 
 dered our |)ro^cress somewhat slow, and we unfortunately shipped a ipiaiitity of water in one 
 of the hat(dms, which, aside from the physical discomfurt it caused us, to a >;reat extent dam- 
 Hgcd the provisions. 
 
 As we wei'e no longer within the pale of civilization and had no nu'ans of appropriately 
 observing the " jjlorious Fourth," wo resumed our joui'nt-y early on that day. The .sc(Miery of 
 the mountains, however, was of such a nature as to arouse our enthusiasm, and we pushed rap- 
 id'y ahead, eaKci' to see t!ud which tiie iie.xl, turn in the river mi>;lil I'evcal. 
 
 A short distance above our camp we passed Itetweeu two very lii^h rocky ciilTs, that on 
 the starboard lieinj^ marked by a very peculiar pinnacle- shaped rock, towerini; hij^h altove its 
 fellows. Souiidiu>;s in this portion of the I'iver reveale(l from seven to ei^fht fathoms of water, 
 which depth, however, was not of lon^ continuance. At this point the Noiitak passes through 
 the coast ran>j;e and for .several miles pursues a very tortuous course. Having a strong Itreeze 
 in our favor, we made sail, which afVoi'ded us an opjiortuuity to i-est our weary arms. 
 
 The most remarkable feature of the coast mount ains is the nuuu'rous isolated peaks, men- 
 tion of which has alrt.'ady been made. Late in the afternoon we passed throuKli the foothills 
 uii the opposite side of the rauf^e. The banks becanu' lower and sonnwhat nuirshy, and all 
 traces of timbei' were lost. The river now assumeil a new ami unpleasant feature, iiiimely, a 
 very marked current, which, as we proceeded, bi-came so swift as to render our progress slow 
 and laborious. 
 
 Ma.><ses of Arctic willows were found on either bank, and every feature of thtt landscape 
 told us ])laiuly of the (lilli<Milties which we must soon encounter. Tlie favoring bi'ee/.e of the 
 j>ast few days showed us that our work miKht be considerably les.sened by enlarfi;iu>; our sail, 
 HO I determinefl to uuike one, before |)rocee(linji; farther, sulliciently lai'Ke io meet tht^ i-e(juire- 
 ments. 
 
 Iji a few hours' time we were aj^ain ready to proceed. We had not K"'"" more than a niiht 
 before we gained a point where the current became vei'v strong; and all etVorts to stem it wei'e 
 <jf no avail. The river now widened into a stream of twice its or-dinary breadth, dotli-d with 
 islands, and covering; a vast tract of flats. 
 
 Thus far our tracking; line had not been called into reipiisiliou. but it was now manifestly 
 impossible to proceed without it. Tin* numerous bars and shoals in the river, together with 
 the strouj^ current. I'eiidered oui' laboi' e.\cee(liM;;ly .irduous, aud we wei'e fre(| \eiitly oblif^ed 
 to Jumi) overboard to avoid beinj.; swept over the shoal.s. After couteiidinjj; with the.se dilli- 
 culties for a few hours both of us became thorouij;hly wet and fatifj;ued, the former condition 
 at this .staf^e of the journey beiiij;' a new experience. althoiiLjh siibsetpieiitly it becaini' an evei'y- 
 day occurrence. During? the moruinj^ 1 shot a line pair of j;eese, which was an acceptable 
 acipiisition tooiir larder, for a steady diet of slap-jacks and bacon had cjuised tlii' inner man 
 to clamor for a cliau,i>t'. 
 
 ( )n the followiii;^ day the surrounding' country ^n\i' us no reason to hope for a better con- 
 dition of affairs. The banks were very low. and the river presented a perfect mazttof chan- 
 nels, none of which were well detined or apparently of a permanent character. It was impo.s- 
 siblo to struf^'^le ai^ainst tlit> strong ciii'rent with the paddles, ami the trafking line was con- 
 stantly in n.se. Host of the channels were small ami iiisiffiiiticaiit, many of them not having 
 suHicient water to float the bidarka. At this time the river was at a vi'ry hi,nli stage. Ijater, 
 however, many of these clumuels become dry and the No!itak is Cfuilined to a more delinite ))ed. 
 
 The heavy raiu which Imd commeiu-ed with tlie dawn cuiitiuuod throughout the day; in 
 
G2 ciuiisK OF TfiK stp:amki{ COKWIN. 
 
 lulditioii til llii' Miaiiy liiiicH wi> Inul lict-ii ulili^nl to ,iiiiii|i rivt'iliuiuil it riiiiscil mi Iilt1i> liixlily 
 (liHcoinfiirt mill iimdo iiiir pni^rcHH nIow uihI ilislinii'tniiiiK. At niKliHnll we kucIiiiI u |iiiiiit 
 wIk'I'c tilt' |iriis|M'i't WHS tliiiiiKliI to )>•' lii'tti'i', anil \vi' jiitrlit'il i-iiiii|i in tlir iiiiilst nl' u ilii'mliiii^ 
 Hturin. Having li.nl iin ii|i|iui'tunity In liiilt I'nr liiiirlii'iin mi iirriiiint nl' tin' ruin, tlir iian^s nl' 
 liiinpT lii';j;aii to lii< t'fit; liut now n tire was out of tlin ()iii>stiiin. AltiT having K*'tt>'i> <><>■' 
 i'i|iii|ia 0' "ii'liT slit'ltiT, wi' rnilcavoi-i'il III satisfy iiurwi'lvt's witli Ininl lu'rail ami watrr a diet 
 not raliMilali'il to inri'i'asi- tlii' i-i^iility of the liarklionr. 
 
 Till' I'ain of tin- ilay ronlinnnl I IiioukIioiiI llir iii^iil, ami llii' following' nmniinK lii'oii^lit 
 no rlian^r with it. Not willistanilin.u; tin' ili'i'ary |iros|ii'('t, wi' rrsiiinril our Jonrnry, lin|iiuK t<> 
 lluil 11 licMiTroiiililiou of all'airs fiirtln'ralon^. Contrai'y to my i>.\|ii>rtHtiiins, tlii' iiatiirc of our 
 woili si'i'innl MioiT li(i|ii'li'ss than lii'roiT; I lir cnri'i'iil sri'inril to imMi'asi- in strcnu:! li I'Vriy mili> 
 of our jonrni'y, anil liffori' wi' had |irori'idt'd vrry fai'aliovi' tin- rainji wr wi'it oliji^^i'd to al>aii- 
 lioii till- |iadillrs and jtlaci' onrsrlvi-s in tlii' trackiuK Ixh'ih'^i!^' 'I'ln' rivi'i' iiaiiks at tiiis |ioiiit 
 Wri'i- such that tracking was next to iin|iossilili'; tlir ilriisi- growth of liuslii'S, to^i't lirr with tin' 
 tniiKh'd mas< of failru timlii'r alonj< tin' shori'S. ri'iidrri'd oui' footing very |iii'rarious. 
 
 Sliortly afliT start iiifi' iii tlu' morning; we rcaclird ii very daiiKi'ioiis i'a|iiil, IIiioukIi which 
 tho turliuh'nl watrrs dashi'd with an almost irrrsistilili' foriT, and I dirrrti'd Ni'Ison to adjust, 
 till* trut'kin>; harni'ss |iri'|iaratory to passinj; around it Wlirii all was in rcadiiii'ss I took tlin 
 sti'i'rinu |>addh' and shrrri'd thr liidarka into tin- liiii'st of thr tlooil. Tlir stri'ii^^lli of thi' nir- 
 rcni, howrvi'r. was ),'rrati'i' than I anticipati'-.l, ai'.d catrliint; tlii'cauoi' undrr tlii' liow, in an 
 instant wn wi'i'c wliirli-d into thi' torri'ut WMh' vainly cndi'avorintf to ihi'ck its mad i iri'i-r 
 Ni'lsnn was lira, Lfp'd into thi' rivi-i' a'ld nair'-wly I'sraprd di'owniiiK. In tlu' mean timi', liy thr 
 Hcvi'i'i'st I'xi'rtioii, I sui-ci'i'drd isi liradinji tlit' canui! inslioro, ami linally landi'd somh' distaiirn 
 lirliiw thr rapids. 
 
 I'rolitinj;; liy thrsi' I'Xprrii'iii'i's, wi' soon Irarni'd io iiroci'cd with morr rautioii and adopti'd 
 safi'r im'tlioils :.i' ovi'ri'iiuiiiijLf thi' daiiKi'i'ois oiistai'h's. 
 
 Til"' ii'j^iiiii tliroiiKli which our Journey now lay was of the most foiliiddiu^; description. 
 'Hid apparently almost destitute of life, hofh animal and ve^jetalile. The adjacent 'ountry pre- 
 sented a most remarkalile desceid; mountains and hills which we had passed three days liefuni 
 sei'iiied far helnw us. and every mile seemed to |ilun;,n' us deeper iido (he solitudes of the ri';j;iou. 
 
 The river jireseiited the same divided appearance, and no well-delined channel conld he 
 found. Lute in the afternoon \vv i-eached a native villaj^e which apparently had lieen deserted 
 only a few days liefure our arrival. It appeafed to have heeii occupied during; I he winter. 
 Several huts coutaineil sled;;iu,ij out tits which had hei'ii cached until the relnrii of the owners, 
 who hail prohahly j^one to the coast on trading expeditions. 
 
 The 1ie;',vy and protracted rains of thi' jiast few days had now caused very hi;;h water, and 
 we found, to our dismay, that the current had iieai'ly douliled in stren^^th. The ri\er f<a\ e no 
 evidence of chHii}{iu^ for the iM't-ter, hut, if |iussilile, seemed to lieconie muie inl ricate and winil- 
 ini; than helnre. 
 
 It was iiMpo.ssilile I o stem the cui'rent with our paddles, and even in | daces where the track- 
 iiifi; line could he used it reipiired our utmost exertions to dra,!^ the liidarka. throiij^h the water. 
 Ill addition to this, the dreuchin;j; rains which still coutinued to fall, totcether with the cold 
 winds, reiidei'ed our lahor very arduous. 
 
 The liasiii of the river .seemed to occu|iy a track sever.'il miles in width; the hanks were very' 
 low. and an oi'dinary storm would cause it tonverllow and iiiuudate much of the surroundiiifif 
 country. Many of the channels were undonhtediy caused hy the spring freshets, at which time 
 the niovintc ice, impelled liy the cui'rent, plays havoc almii^ the hanks, destroying; the timlier, 
 plowini; new channels, and frequently I'cachin^ even the native huts on the hiiiher land. 
 
 Many of the lints we saw wore in closo proximity to the watei-, and in another year's time 
 would uudouhtedly lie swept away. 
 
 On the fiillowiiif^ mnrnin^. the rain havin^M'ontinueil tlirouj^houl the iii,u;ht. the river had 
 risen sevpi'al feet, and it was very evident that we could not continue our Journey until tins 
 waters had suhsidcd. The hard usatje to which the canoe had heeii suhjected duriii'< the jiast 
 Week had worn it very hadly, and it caused uiu uo little uu.xiety, the constant succession of 
 
CliUISK OF THK MTKAMKK C'ORWIN. 0^ 
 
 rapHlH mill 1lit> miiny <liuiK«'iM>nH r<wkH ill (In' clmMiifl niii<U'r»«i| the «ri'ul<«N( cim' iH'i-cHwiry to 
 iiviiiti till' tiitiil ili'slriH'tinii iif till' liiiliirku. svliirli wmilil liriii^, ;ih an iiii'vitiilili' I'fwtilt. tin- rniii- 
 plrti' I'liilii:-!' i>l' till' i'\|ii'ilili<>ii. On tin' itirri'ilinK iiJKlit. utti>r |)iti'liiii>{ riiiii)) iiini iiiiikiiiK ()><' 
 iiNiiiil |iir|iiiiiitioim fill' i'i'hI, we Imiili'il tlii' I'liiiiM- out on tin- hank; uftcr r»'tirin« Hit- tlii>uniil 
 iM'i'iiiicil lu nil' tliiil |M'rliii|is till' riviT iiiIkIiI f^>*>' iH'ri'ii' tlir niorniiiK hiuI I'lidiiiiKi'i' Hn' I'unnn. 
 
 Ln uniiT tu ••iiiuki' iiHsiiruiu'i' ilmilily huii'," I liwlii'd llii' rnit't In u iii'iKlilxniiiK tri'f, iuhI 
 vt'i-y fortiinivd'ly, Ino, tm' in tin* nnirniiiK it wuh itlloitt, uinl luiilniiliti'illy witiilil liiivi< Im'cii Inst 
 liinl ni>( tlif |>r«M'iiutiiin Itvcn liiki'ii tuMi'i'iiri' it. 'I'lii.-i iiuiii>w i'siu|h> Innl tlii'rll'rfl ot' I'l'ilonMiii;,' 
 Dili' vi>;iliiiii'r. 
 
 In till' niorniiiK tlii< Nniituk ^iviniMl tin* lii^^li-wiitor iinirk, liinl lilKinl ikhmi (■iiiiiini'iiri'il tn 
 I'l'i'i'ilc M'ly slowly. Till' hiiliiikii wiis now tlioioiiKlily wivtiT-Hunkfil. us tlii'n« litul iicoii no 
 i>|i|ioi'tiiiiity to dry it sini'n loHvinj,' tlin I'nririii. in tliis condilion tin* skin Imtoihi's vi'vy soft 
 Hiid liiilili' to ti'iir. till firridi'iit wliiili, owiiij; to tin* si'Vi>rity of tin- work, inivtld oi'iiir at any 
 tiini'. U|ion I'xaniiiiation. I disrovi'i'i'd two of tlii> si-anis ovi'r tlii' kri'lson liad ^ivi'ii way and 
 ill iiiiiny otliiT iilaci's I'vidi'iicfs of wcakiii'ss wnri' visilili-. .M'li'r ri'|»airiiiK Hit' daniaKi', tin' 
 ninoi' was liaiili'd out to dry. In (lie iiii'un linn' 1 clinilu'd n ni'litlilMirin^ Irri' lo olilain a vii'W 
 1)1' till" rivi'i' aliovi', and, happily, iioti'd many di'cidi'd kIkhs of inipiovi'ini'iit. Having; tlin 
 HHsiiraiH'i' ol' hi'llir things, wi' wiMit into laiiip hojiiiiK Ihiit tin" iiiorrow would hrin^ ii ray of 
 snnsliini'. 
 
 'rill' t'ollowiiiic niorniiij^ o|i('iiril lair and warm; thr loii;,'-('uiitiniii'd storm had rxliaiisti'd 
 ilsi'il. and oni'i' niorc llii' siin slioiii' in a rloinllrss sky. Tlii' ranoi' ha\in;^ liri'ii dried and 
 
 oili'd, was iif^ain in a serxirralil nditioii. and I di'ti'i'iiiiiii'd to ri'siiiiii' tin' joiiniry without 
 
 di'lay. 'I'lii' rivi'i' was still xrry liit^li and wr loiiiid it iifci'ssary to thread oiir way iipwaid 
 through the smaller ehaiinels to avoid the impas.salile rnrri'iit in the main rixer. .Mterroii- 
 tiiininK in this way for several miles we finally reached a larm' stream wliiili iippeared to lie 
 the prini'ipal I'liaiiiii'l. ImiI after following; this for some distanee found that it a^ain divided 
 into a net work of small streams and tlierehy made our work more disi'oiiiaj^iiiii than hefore. 
 The entire valley hasaniost remarkaltle slope; in many portions, the rise was plainly notieeahle 
 in a stretcdi less than a half mile in lenj^th. a feature wliieh Hccoiinted for the nmisiially rapid 
 current, 'i'his. of course, caused oiir pro;^i'ess to he \i'ry slow jiiid lahorioiis. We had heeii in 
 the water waist deep al times diiriut; the ^'■•''■•■••'i' [lortion of the day, ami conseipieiilly hefore 
 uijihtfail liecaiiie thoriuiKhly chilled with the cold. After ><oinK into camp for the iii^fhi our 
 chilled liiood. a^aii) put incirciiialion. produceil a most peculiar hurniiiKSuuHatioii, which caused 
 no little pain and utterly iirecluded the idea of sleej). 
 
 We had now Knined one of the most desolate .sei^tions of cmnitry imaginahle; in gazing 
 over the portion already traveled nothing met the eye .save an unhroken stretch of Hats, iinro- 
 lieved hy forests or hills. Ifcre and there a patch of Arctii^ willows, or perhajis a few scattered 
 sprm'i* trees, constituted the only variation to the .scene. The sense of utter desolation and 
 loneliness which took iiossessioii of the mind was indeed dillictilt to dispel, and at times seemeil 
 almost \ineiidui'ahle. No traceof human hahitations could he found, and even the hardy water- 
 fowl seemed to have forsaken the region, leiiving nothing to remind us of the great and Imsy 
 world thousands of miles helow. 
 
 While at leisiU'H the day previous I examined the river for some distance ahead, and found 
 that hy making a short portage we niiglit .save a consideratile distance and g.iiii time as well. 
 Accordingly, we shouldered the canoe and carried it jicross to what seemed to he the main 
 chaunul of the river. After triinsporting the outfit in a like manner, we loaded the canoe and 
 resumed the journey. 
 
 The river was now much U'ss dividt^d and had a greater depth, although the current was 
 yet very raiiid. The 1)anks were higlier and of su«d\ a nature as to rench'V tracking practicahle; 
 coiisei(ni'ntly we maih' nnicli hotter progress. The surrounding country also inii>roved greatly 
 in aiipeai'ance; the hjinks sloped hack into a higher district, which was diversified in ])laces hy 
 patches of tinihei', which thus far had heen scarce. Spruce and Cottonwood ti'ees arescattei'ed 
 along the lianks, hut as a usual thing do not extend far inland. All the timher shows decideil 
 climatic repressiou, the trees seldom attaining a diameter exceeding twelve imdies at the base. 
 
64 CKUISK OF TIIK HTKAMKK (!(»UWIN. 
 
 On tho iiiirtli bank of tint NoiUuk, litiout t«>ii inilt<H frnm otir pn<Ht<iit |K)Hitii>n itnd tritiiding 
 nearly xiiHt ami wi>Ht, lay a loii^ and niKKtMl nkii^t'iif niiMintaiiis; niii-^rttiiii, iK-cnpyiiix a Home* 
 wliat iHulatvd itoNitioii, wiiN partit'iilarly i'i<iiiai'kalil(< in a|i|it'ai'aiic'«i. Tin- I'lilii'i- ran^c, froni liiu<n 
 to Hinniiiil. wax lit' a li^lil-rrd culur and d<'Htitiiti< of lill vi'Ki'talitm, Mavi' a friii)^)! iif ^rct'ii around 
 tliii liamt. 'I'liK licaiitil'iil riinti'a.st alt'nnlt'd liy Hnow-cappiMl HuniniitN, ml Hlnprs, lind K>'<'*'n liawH 
 I'ornicd onii of I hi' nmsl novrl and inliTi>Nlin>( hI^IiIm in thii uatini i-oiintry, and otl'orcd a Ntndy 
 woll worthy an artiHt'H lirnnh. 
 
 Thx I'ollowin^ morning found uh af^ain tiackiii^, Htriviii^^ to ovi'iioiui' lhi< many oppoNin)< 
 oliHtaclcH ami ^ain tin' rnd of our I'Xpi'dition. 'I'hi' I'Ivit a^ain diviih'd in its ronrHi< and prc- 
 wmtiMl nniuy aInioHt inHnpt't-aldo dilllctilticH ovi'iy niiiti that wi< advanrtil. 'I'lii' i-onHtant huc- 
 iTHHiou of rapids ri'iidi'i'i'd our woi'k i'.\n>i'ilinKly hard, hut thi'ampliiliiousi|iudilii'sof our ualnro 
 nnidit it a lualtiT of iittii' importaiici' whrtiii'r wi' witi' in or out of Ihcwali'i'. Alioiit noon, 
 howttvi'i', wti rcachi'd a point whi'ii' tlu' Noiitak issued from a Hin^h* ( hanm'l, a condition which 
 lightened our iahor very matci'ially, allhouKh llnM-urrriit scmu'd to have lost none of its original 
 ijualitics. At times it reipiired the united exertions of Nelson and myself, up to our waists in 
 water, to control the unruly canoe, auil then we were by m> means always sui'cessful. Not- 
 withstandin^f these dilliculties, we made fairly ^ood headway, although hoth were thurouKlily 
 fatiKned at iiixht. The country still presented the sann< severely desolate appearance; tho 
 mountains on eithei- side liej^au to couver><e toward the river, and sonu' distance almve seemed 
 to form a solid wall directly aci'oss its path. It is needless to say that this was a most aKreealilo 
 prospeitt, inasmuch as the river must needs he confinod to a channel of onlinary width, a stuto 
 which would render <Mir work very much lighter. 
 
 The next day, .) uly ir*, seemed to inaugurate a new era in our work. At tlie usual hour wo 
 atartod on oui- way, alt<>rnately tracking and paddling, as the statu of tho rivor permitted. In 
 nniny places a stronj< eddy was found alouK the shores, which was of j^reat a.ssistance to us, 
 al'hou;;h the rocky natiireiif t he hanks umde it necessary to proceed with ;ri'eat cant ion. About 
 Id o'clock a. m. we (Altered the highlands of tlu* rau^e and !< uud, to our joy, that all the brauchoa 
 i.ssued from one well-defined and narrow river. The dilliculties at tend inji? our work during tho 
 past ten days had iieeu very ^reat, and we had fr.M|uently been placed in dangerous siluationK 
 during that luemoralih* t ime; but now the prospect seemed much briichlei' and we entered upon 
 the work with rc^m^wed I'lier^y. With the now ^^reatei' hope of reachiufj; the headwaters, wn 
 ])laceil ourselves in tho tracking? harness and summoned all our latent oncrj^ii* for the renewal 
 of the work. 
 
 In many portions of the river the banks became ipiite |irecipitiuis, and fi'e(|uenlly broke 
 out intot'litt's of solid rock. Shortly after noon wo onterod the (Irand Oafions of the Noiltuk, 
 a sectiou about three miles iu length, and by far the most interesting poi'liou we had yet .setui. 
 Hei'e the pei'peudicular walls rose hundreds of feet ou either side, seldom olVei'iu;^ a foothold 
 alouj^ the bases, while the tops fre<|uently overhuuf^ the river and seemed to thrt-aten nniniiMi- 
 tarily to topple over ami crush us beneath their ponderous wei>j;ht. As the river from above 
 enters the callous it plunj^es forwaril with an almost irresistible force. 
 
 OwiuK to the precarious touting alouK the dill's, our progress was very slow, for it was 
 necessary to track the canoe the entire distance. The uuiny rocks which lined the banks, some 
 (»f which were submerged, made caution necessary, and at times wo narrowly escaped being 
 dashed a;^aiiist them by the many ci'oss-cui'reuts of the river. After eiuerj^inj^ from the caftoiiM 
 the river enters a narrow valley, on either side of which are hi^h rau-^es of mountains. There 
 was no (rhanjjo in tlio general fispect of the river; tlioclnunud was marked by dangerous rocks, 
 and tho cui'i'eut seemed lo have lost none of its strength. The fatiguing labors of the day 
 began to make thein.selves felt ere niglitCjill, and at about (J o'ldock W(* went into cam[» for rest 
 and i-ecuperatiou. 
 
 Proceeding on our way the following morning, we dragged the canoe through a rajnd jnst 
 above (-amp, and after jiassiug it continued to paddle for several hours without interru])tion. 
 About II (M^lock the weather, winch had become unusiuilly warm, gave ovidenoo of a decided 
 change. A largf black cloud, which had ilarkeued the e.astei'n sky, gradually rose until it 
 reached the zenith, when it aj)i)areutly halted and fairly pyurcd its liciuid coutonts down upon 
 
II Pi m< o I 
 
 K.MJl IMl) (IIH\^. AKKIiWS, A Ml M'l' AKS. 
 
 
 lisyui.Mo i)()(is AMI .m.uucjI'-. 
 
II r. Ml. ,, 
 
 KSUUIMlJ UOUTS .\NIJ :illUK!i AND SNOW-hlluUi 
 
 EiiUUlMd UUU'lb. 
 
CRUISE OP THE STEAMER CORWIN. 66 
 
 us. I do not remembor nvcr lutviiiK t'xpt'riencwl stidi ii (Iclii^t' as lli.it wliirh f(i"V)WP(l for an 
 hour or more; Imt us our ('(mditiou would uot have hecii iinprovcd l)y stopiiiiij;, wo continued to 
 phid nloiiK (hiring tlie storm, (ilthough >)oth wore thoroughly soaked ore it ceased. 
 
 Tile river dis|>hiy(Mi no new or unusual features during (he day, l)ut continued its winding 
 course tiirougli the mountains, atVonlin),' us, in nniny sections, scenery of ilie grandest descrip- 
 tion. Hero the banks wore very bold, and in plaei's hugi! ii«-ky ditfs, the sides of whiidi were 
 worn in the nn)st fantastic shapes by the water, towered hun<lrods of feet above the river. 
 On one of the most inaccessible |)ortions of the cliffs I discovered the nest of a white-headed 
 eagle, the owners of which, fearing that we intende(l miscliief, displaye<l very (h^cided signs of 
 anger, ami would probabaly have resented vt^ry tiercely any inti'usion upon their solitude. 
 
 One of the most, noticeable features developed during the day was the entire absence of 
 timber of any description; no (Iriftwootl could In- fouml along tiic b.-mks, ami it. was very 
 evident that we had passed tht! timber limit and would soon reach the table-lands ui the interior, 
 if my theory in regard to the character of that region proved correct. 
 
 As we progressetl the river became more and more obstructed with rocks, a condition which 
 caused no litte an.xii^ty on account (»f the canoe. In places of this kind J invariably led it 
 through the rocks myself, and oftentimes became so benumbed with cold as to be inciii)al)le of 
 motion. 
 
 The necessity for systematizing our work now became very ajtparent, and as no dis- 
 tinction was made in the performance of our duties, we took " watcli and watch" on the tracking 
 line. Under ordinary circumstances the man on the tracking line held an enviable position; 
 during the cf)ld and inclement weather the work of dragging the canoe was sntHcient to keep 
 the blood in circul'ition, wliile the unfortunati' individual who held the steering paddle suffered 
 greatly from cold, and on nn^re than one occasion 1 took advant;ige of my jiosition to nmke a 
 forced trade with Nelson. 
 
 One of the most serious ])roblems that now confronted us was the sujiiilying ourselves with 
 proper foot-gear. The heavy boots which we j)ossessed in starting on the journey had become 
 badly worn, owing to the .severity of the work, and being without others to replace them, our 
 situation was in<leed serious. The native sealskin boots which \v<' brought from the coast v.'ere 
 (juite useless, as so soon as they bcconu! wet the stitches give way and the skin tears irreparably. 
 Our feet also ijegan to feel the ettects of the Journey .along tlu' rocky banks, and often became 
 so painful that it was ditlicult to stand upon them. Howtiver, nothing was jH-rmitted to inter- 
 fere with our Work, and we |)ress(>d forward. eagcM" to acconi|)!ish something worthy of the etfort. 
 
 Tim surrounding country now becanni .sonn-what less i'ngge(l, ami on the whole was (piito 
 prejxtssessing. The mountain range which we had pas.stMl two daysbefort' now stood out in bold 
 relief, forming a solid wall behind us, and ajijiarently shutting off eveiy nn-ansof escape to the 
 coast. During the day we passed several snnill tributaries of the river, mo't of which hav 
 their origin in the mountain lakes. Large game, consisting princii)ally of Iiear.and deer, 
 seemed to be(piite abundant; beaten paths over which they traveled to and from the river were 
 found everywhei'e. as commonly as the familiar cow-])aths in more civilized clinu>s. 
 
 One morning, about l(! o'clock, as we rounded a. sharf) tniii in the river. 1 discovered an 
 immen.se buck regarding us intently only a few feet distant, and evidently puzzled as to our 
 intentions. Fearing that the slightest move would alarm, him we remained riveted in our posi- 
 tions, silently regarding the tlashing eyt< and <|uivering nostril '>{' the animal, until with a toss 
 of his head he bounded away t()ward the mountains. Nature indeed is very beautiful in those 
 wild, desolate regions, and I shall never forget tlu; thrill of ple.-isnrc^ experienced as 1 stood 
 gazing at that wild and untamed creature, which undoubtedly .saw foi' the iirst time the face 
 of a white man. 
 
 The next morning gave indit-ations of a stormy day ; tl.irk masses of lowering clouds hung 
 over the neighboring summits, and we liad fully made up (nir miutis to submit to another 
 soaking; About noon tluM'londs began to bi'eak ; to the southward, however, there was a very 
 heavy storm, and the deep roll of thunder was Ik ard during the entire day. Storms of this 
 des(!ri|)tion are of very rarti occurrence lun-ording to my exjterionce, and, save in the instance 
 noted, nothing of the kind ever canui under my observation in Northern Alaska, 
 P, Ex. 103 9 
 
fiG CRlllSK OF THE HTKAMKIi CORWIN. 
 
 (»iir wofk from d.-iy t"' <l.'i.V was iiicrt'ly u rt'|pf(iti(iii id' fdriiKT cxitcrit'iiccs, mid by altor- 
 iiiitcly tfiickiiiK iiii'l |iii(l(lliii;; we cniiliiiiiiMl tu iiilviuu'c ul u ijooil rati' of .sjH'i'd. Tlit< iv>;i(Jii 
 tliroiiKli wliicli our joiinicy now lay was In-avily ndlinj^, tlii'iiiountaiiis iHtiiigin brokou ranjyoH, 
 and tii'iidiiiK' irn^iilaily fiom WSW. to KNK. 
 
 'riiroiiKlioiil llif iiioiiiitaiii district \\\v river is sliallow and tlic ciiaiiiu'l is studded with 
 obstruftiiiK rofks. Asidi" from the usual daiiK<'i"w "f uaviication in plaoes of this kind, iiotliiuK 
 of special im|ioi'taiice occurred. I shot aline pair of willow ^I'ousc^ (/yr/f/o/xj.v m//)»/.s) during 
 the day. July is. which were the first seen in the rej^ion. We also ikoteil an eaj,de's nest, con- 
 tain inj; two h.ilf-lledned liirds, on a JultinK crau; not more than twenty-iivt* feet ahove the water. 
 It is vei'y unusual to lind them in locations of this kind and therefore specially noteworthy. 
 
 The followiui; day beinj;' Sunday, it was my intention to devott* the tinu' to i-est and recu- 
 peration aflei' the arduous duties of the week, hut I found many things which demanded 
 immediate attention helore i-esununj^ oui- journey. The wear and tear to which the canoe had 
 been sill i.jected hail chafed t he scams vei\v badly, and it was necessary t<j iiatcli the dcfuctivo 
 parts before proieediui;. The skin was also watei-soaked and re(|uired di\vin>^. After attend- 
 ing <o these details I ascended a iieinhborinj; hill for t lie purpose of examiuinjj; the surroundiiij^ 
 country, (hi ;;ainin^ th • eminence I discovered .several small lakes, none of which woro nioro 
 than a mile in len.i;'lli. and silualed as they were, w^illed in by the mountains. Iheircalm and 
 unrullleil waters presented an indescribahly beauliful appeaiance, and the peaceful .scene on 
 that beautiful Sunday inorninij did much to soften the hardships whi<di had attended our wa.y, 
 Althou,i;h I had no upport unity to examine the interior of tin* re;;ion vei'y extensively, then* 
 are undouliledly many lakes of threat er or less size than those exainined which act as feeders 
 to the main river. 
 
 The volumtMif water in the Noiitak had ;;reatly diminished within the past^ day or two, 
 and navigation was attended with many dillicidties. 
 
 The nextr mornin;;' opened dark find stormy, not wilhstandin;,^ which W(^ broke camp and 
 resumed our journey at the usual hour. About H o'clock the im])endinj; storm burst uiion us 
 and tile rain fell in torrents, Ihorounhly ilreiichiiif^ and demoraliziiif; us i^enerally, although i' 
 was notr .illowed to impede our pio!j;ress. The mountains now seemeil to ai)|iroach the rixer 
 aj^ain, and tiie lofty summits towered hundreds of feet abuse it. The stream aj;ain j)iirsued a 
 very tortuous course, winding in ami around tiie niountains. through dee)) canons and jjdrfjos. 
 wher-e. in spite of the wi'etcheil weather, we could not fail to admii'e the ,t,n'andeur of flio 
 scenery. In the me;ui time the fresh breeze of morning- had increased into a j^ale which fairly 
 whistled throujj;h the chasms, and hoist iiij? our sail, we were (Ir i ven rapidly forward, notwith 
 standing the opposiiii,M'urrent in the river. The work now became excitinji; in thci extreme. 
 Stcei'in;; the fiail canoe into the eddy, we determined to make the best of the o|>])ortnnity and 
 Kiiin every pos.sibl(( advantaj^e. To N<'lson I intrusted the steeriiif;; paddle, while I held tho 
 .jheet and employed every fjicnlty in avoidiiii,' the snbnierj^ed rocks, which seemed to threaten 
 us with destruction. Imbued with a spirit of boldness bordering; on ii'ckle.ssness, tho caiioo 
 was driven before the iii\\r. 
 
 In the afternoon the bed of the river bcLfan a most i-eniark;ible ascent, resembling in 
 appearance ;i heavily-jj;raded railway throuj;li a mountain ilistrict. With the assistance of tho 
 favoiinj,' nale .inii our miiteil exertion wit h t lie paddles we succeeded in stenuuiiig the flood, 
 and linallly f^aiiied the snioothei' water above. 
 
 Ab(nit 4 o'clock ]). in.. ,July -.'(l. we passed a lar;;e triinitiiry on the left bank, wliidi con- 
 tributed fully one-third to the total volume below. The water from this stream was clei'.r iind 
 beautiful, ami evidently had its source in a mounfaiu lake not far distant; the water in tho 
 Noi'itak was ipiite the reverse in appearance, and as the two rivers mingled each j)roserved its 
 characteristic for fully half a mile below, the waters reiiuiiiiinn- entirely separate for that dis- 
 tance. 
 
 At this jHiiiit the ianj;e of niountains on the rij^ht bank crosses the path of tlio rivor, trend- 
 ing iiboiit northeast. These ariMimoiii; the hii>hi"<t found in any jiortion of the region exploi'ed. 
 
 Directly above here the river, by a sharp turn, leaves the mountains and enters upon a 
 
CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 07 
 
 rountry of an entirely differpiit character. Indeml. this siuhh'n transfornuition of scene is one 
 of tlie nitwt iMH'uliar and striking features of the NoiUai< Rivtn- region. 
 
 As we cntercil upon tiiis last se<-ti()ii I cannot convey an idea of the i)ictun' whicli met our 
 view. Heliiiid us (lie dark' wall of inouiilains (iiri)ii;,di wImcIi we iiad just passccj towered 
 ujiward iiiilil tlicir siiiiiiiiits were lost in (lie clouds, and seemed like an impassalile Itarrier, 
 shutting us oH' from tin- outside worlii. Before us lay (lie level i)lains of (lie interior, stretch- 
 injj; away in (lie distan(H«, unrelieved by a single ohject niton whicli (lie eye could rest with any 
 feeling nC pleasure. 
 
 The gale, wliii'li had coidiiiued during (lie clay, developed inlo a tiei'ce Arctic blast that 
 fairly benumbed ns with col<l. and in view of our miserably wet condition our jKjsition was 
 anything but eiivialile. Tlie lack of wood or fuel of any kind ad<leil notliing to our comfort, 
 and for the first time 1 felt completely disliearteiied. I'pon examining (lie river above I found, 
 to my dismay, that it again branched out into a niimbcr of channels, none of which had suffi- 
 cient »va(ei' a,|i))aren11y (o tloat the canoe, an emergency which in (he ]iresent s(;de of mind I 
 was ill prepared (o encouidcr. Having satisfied myself with the examination, I returned to the 
 camp, hoping that the niorrow might bi'ing renewed courage. 
 
 'I'he canoe was now found to be leaking badly, and a search revealed a very serious cut 
 over tliiM<celson, which, after two hours' labor, we succeeded in repairing substantially. It 
 was now manifestly impossible (o procei^d further unless (he canoe could be lightened, and 
 with (his end in view 1 de(ermined (o cache ('verytiiing which could besjiai'cd from our ali'c^ady 
 slender outfit, taking with us only the barest nece.ssit i(!S sufficient f(jr a period of threi' weeks. 
 Having divideil our stock of provisions, we left tlie greatei- portion of (he ilour. bacon. coff(>e, 
 and surplus animuiiition, all of which were lashed in a rubber blanket and secured on a plat- 
 form iiKide by bending together a number of strong willow bushes. The provision taken witli 
 ns was not sulli<'ieiit to nieetour wants, but with (he adilidon of the game which we might 
 <tb(ain i( would be possible to eke out all existence for a few Weeks" time. Af(er having 
 nuirked the spot and (aken (he [iroper bearings, we jiroceculed on our way without any mishap 
 worthy of note. 
 
 The Noiltak was now considerably divideil, and we exjierienciMl the same dillicuity in find- 
 ing a <le(inite channel tluit caused so much (roiibh^ at an earlier period. About five miles 
 above the camp we were gri'atly relieveil to (ind that all converged to a single (diaiinel. and 
 entered upon our work with renewed iii(er(\s(. The landscape was one of the bleakest imagin- 
 able; not a sign of life was anywhere visible, and (he cold, piercing blasis which swept acro.ss 
 tlie tundra caused us to realize keenly tlu^ solitude of our (lositionand only increased our desire 
 to .see the eiiil of the journey. 
 
 During the night the No'itak rose fully two feet, and theelVect was ;U once noticealile in 
 the incri';ise(| s(reiig(li of cui'reid as we resumed onr way nexl morning. The region through 
 which We ]p.issed w.is similar in e\-ery respect to that of (he day pre\ious. concerning which 
 there was absolu(ely uodiing worthy of mention. 
 
 The cold winds which swept o\'er moors wei'c ilispirit ing in the extreme, and it was not in 
 a cheerful state of mi ml I hat we dragged the canoe along the I'ocky banks of the ri\'er. 
 
 Till' utmost economy ol provision was now alisolutely necessar.v. and the limited allow.anco 
 per day was beginning to make inroads upon our sdciigdi. I succeeded in sluKtlinga few cur- 
 lew, which Nelson incorporaled iiilo a kind of soiij). ainiosi as thin as thiM-elebi-ated "Shadow" 
 brand, bii( if not very sustaining, at least it .served to fill the exisfing void. 
 
 The nexl morning opened cold and overcast, and it was with reluctance that we left^ (ho 
 shelter of the (cut and faced the cutting blast. A( the usual hour, however, we were in n^adi- 
 ness (o move. Aboul four miles above the camp we gained a soiuewiiat smoother portion of 
 tins river, and resumed our places in (he civnoe preparadtry (o using tlie paddles. Meanwhile 
 a, fi'esli breeze sjirang up. and. as usual, we made sail in order (o rigldeii our laboi-. Proceed- 
 ing in (his manner for a mile or uau'e we reached a rapid portion of tlu' river, which 1 deter- 
 mined, if possible, to sail through, lioping to .save (he cold batJi which would otherwise be 
 involved, for (he (racking line could not be used in passing it. l]y dint of hard work we had 
 gotten about half way tlirouyh when the bidarka fouled with a sunken rock. Befvro tho 
 
G8 CRUISE OF THE STEAMEK CORWIN. 
 
 ciiliiiuily tiMild 1(1' averted tlio caiioo liiid wliirled hroiulsidc to tlicciirri'ut miil cfipsizi'd. Fort- 
 tiuutidy the water \va>< not deej), and so soon as our senses were recoveretl we ri>;litod the craft 
 and pnl into I lie li.-i.nk. A sui'Vey of tlie daniai;n I'evi'aled only a tliorou;i;li weltinj;, and our 
 next impulse was to indulge in a hearty lan>;li, i^ven lliou^li there was nothin;; [tarticularly 
 ludiertnis in the sitinition. Tlio (-auou had partly iilleii with water, hy whi(di everything waff 
 inoiH! oi" less damaged. The oidy serious loss was (hat of our footgear, which, hy some unae- 
 countalile means, had disa|)peared in the excitement of the moment. Otherwise than an ley 
 l)ath, however, and the loss mentioneil. we exiierii^ieed no |)arti(Mdur hanlship. 
 
 1 detei'mineil to go into camp in order tiiat our cll'ccts ndght he overhauled lieforit resuming 
 our Work. After getting the tent in order, i dii-ecti^i Nelson to cut some of the spare .seal-skin 
 into strips of sullicicnt Icngt h to lie made into a rucle moccasin which mightr at least serve as a 
 |)rotection against the sharp rocks, and hefore idghtfall we weie again shod and I'eady to advance. 
 Indeed, Die d itHcnl ties eneountered only seemed toawaken thestuhhorn eh mentsof our natures, 
 and with a dcli'rmination not to Ixt halllcil, wo prepared ourselves to ni'-et anytiiing short of 
 utter annihilation. 
 
 The next moridng, July tJ-t. tlie Weather liaving mo(h'ratedsullicit>ntly. we again proceeded, 
 hut nothing o-curred to vai'v the monotony of our lahors. In the afternoon we entered a higher 
 and more I'olling coiuil ry. and in | daces tin' river widened into a s( ream of twice its ordinary 
 hreaillh. Merc we found it so shallow that it was with great dilliculty we succeeded in passing. 
 In several places of this kind we were ohliged to lighten the canoe hefore advancing. Late in 
 the day we r4'a('hed a de.sci-ted lishing village, the site of which was evidently selected with a 
 view to utilizing the salmon spawning heils in the vicinity. 
 
 For ii long distance here the river was marked hy many dangerous rapi^ls, none of wliic-h 
 wei'e more than a half mile apart, and hetween which the river was smooth, deep, and admira- 
 hly adapted for spawning lieds. The village is occupied onl\ luring the salmon run. which 
 occurs sofu after the ice moves out in the spring. Large uiniiliersof tish enter (he rivei' at 
 that time, many of whicli pemlrale the extrenn- headwaters hefore spawning. When the 
 young ai'e sullicieiil ly grown. usumIIv aiiout the middle of August, the ret rogr;ide movement 
 hegins, and, guidi'il liy the mysterious dictates of instinct, they start for the se.i. The parent 
 salmon, whose duties cease when till' spawn ai'e deposited, seldom or never return. Late in 
 thesejisou large nundiers of dead may he sei-n tlo.ating down the I'iver and the su|)position is 
 that all the parent lisli perish hefore I'eaching the sea. In tln^ mean time the migrating young 
 have many dangers to encounter hefore ri'aciiing the open waters. Upon gaining (he lower 
 river they are nu'( hy large .schools of seal (/'A oca r/7/(////f(). ii"d here, indeed, their trouhled 
 existence hegins. Before passing tiiis ordeal (heir numhers .are sadly decimated, and not more 
 than one-third of the original nnmher ever reach the se.-i. l.iarge (|uantities are also caught hy 
 the natives and dried for winter use. Sever.al nativ(! caciies, mounted u[)on tripods, were 
 passed along this section, none of whicli. howevei'. were exandned. 
 
 The wcjither lieing very stormy the next morning, I deternuued to reuuiin in eainp. The 
 *'onstant exposure ;inil hardship of t lie Journey were lieginning to tell upon our strength, anil, 
 in addition to other tilings. 1 diil not consider it jiruderit to hreak ca.m|) and expose ourse'ves 
 to the inclemi'in-ies of the weather. The heavy rains of the past few days liad now swollen 
 the river to such an exii'nt that we were ohliged to remove to higher ground. V\'e fouml gri'.at 
 diflicnlty in ohtaining sullicient wood with which to pre[)are our scanty unials; willow hranchos 
 and ilry grass were the only .-ivailahle articles of fuel, and oftentimes even this failed us. 
 
 'i'he next morning the storm had suhsided and we pr<K'e('ded on our way. The river was 
 yet very high, and the current, augmented liy the tlood, had nearly douhled in strength, so that 
 with ilitliculty we held our c(turse. The Noiltak now entered a low section of country, through- 
 out which it was divided iido a nundter of channels. A large nnml)er <(f lakes, each of whicli 
 has an outlet into the river, (h)t the entire region, a fact which made .t evident we were 
 approaching the headwaters. 
 
 We pass(Ml a cache of nativt* sledges (hiring tlio day, the signitieuuco of whicli we realizoil 
 a few days later, after reaching a i)oint ahout lifty miles above it. 
 
ORUIHK OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 69 
 
 Tho iilmn.st mitiro at)sonco of life is onn of tlin fliaractoriHtio foaturcs of IIiih rogion. Tim 
 sciiso of loiicliiii'ss wliii'li frc((ii('iifly to(»k [losscssion of llic mind \v;is. imlccil, ililliciiH to tlirow 
 olf, and its infiiicnctf wasdc^prcsHinK in tiio cxtrtuno. Tli(Mlistaiico traveled during; tlirday was 
 a(!(ionii>liHh(iil \>y trackiuf^ nx(duMivcly; tlio rapiil ciirrciii and rocky rlianni-l i('ndciv<l it iitt|Mis- 
 Hil)l(* to iisi! (Ill' paildlcs; for Horu()diHtaiurn W(» wcroobliKt'd to drag tin- caiioi' (iiroujili liy taking 
 to tlii^ icy water onrsi'lv(\s. 
 
 Tlio river now l)('camn,Hliallower every milnof its length, au<l i'l one instance it hecamo 
 iioeessary to portage tile canoe. About nooii, .Inly x'S. we pa,><sed a I irge Irilmtary tluwing into 
 tile main river from east-sontiieast, which contriliuted nearly oiie-aalf to the total volimiH of 
 water l)elow. 
 
 Late in the afternoon we founilon the left hank what appeai'ed to hea grave, an<l, promj>tod 
 l)y cm-iosity, I <leternMne(l to halt ami examine it. Upon gaiiiinv, the spot we discovered that 
 it was a well-dis;jui.se(| cache, containing a large ipiantity of skins, iiati\'e clothing, hoots, and 
 a general assortment of native jios.sessions, together with a si -dging niitlit. 'i'lie significance 
 of these caches now hecame evident; the extremedillicnlty att-nding the navigation ahove tliis 
 point made it cle.ii- that the natives, on I'etnrning from the c.iast. ah.indoned the river here and 
 completed their journey on sledges, 'i'liis fact Was reiidereil doiilily certain liy tiniling sevefid 
 ahaiidoiied hidarka frames in the vicinity, and iliis conclusion .seems to he tlie most reasoni».l)le 
 coiicei'iiing the solution of it. Altlicnigli it was an ai'diioiis inidertakiiig, ;md one wliich might 
 involve the dest met ion of the canoe, I (jet erii lined to push jihead and I'each some deli n it e so\irce 
 if possihie. 
 
 The next nioriiiuLt hrokc d.ark and overcast; .a jiiercing sonthwest wind swept across tho 
 tundra that fairly hen limited us with cold, ai:d it was with great reluctance that we turned luit 
 to tace it. As We were preparing to start Nelson coni plained of feeling ill, and. indeed, liis 
 appearance fully attested the truth of the staten\ent. After tiuestioning I decided it wotdd not 
 h ' |»rude'iit to suhject liim to the exposure incident to the work, and determined to remain in 
 i-amp. The icy cold water of tiie river thr<aigh whiidi we wei-e frei|ueiitly ohligi'd to dra"- the 
 canoe, together with the extreme inclemency of the weather, was snllicieut to hreak down the 
 strongest constitution, and the hanly .sailor was not tlie man to give up until physically dis.ahled. 
 After ma.kiiiu; him as comfort;ihle as circumstances permitted. I set out in seaich of game. l)ut 
 after a tramp of several hours I'eturned without having seen any sign ol' life. 
 
 Nelson was now snifering from a high fever, and li is condition aiarmerl me extremely. 
 Towards eveliilli;-. however, he impl'oved somewhat ;niil declared himself ahle to move on. 'I'lie 
 following niorning I determined to hreak caiiip, I did not consider it prudent to allow Nelson 
 to track, so put my.self in (he harness ;ind v.'e stiirted forward. The morning was dark and 
 gloomy; (he cold winds continued with miahated vigor iiiid the prospect was ;inytliing hut 
 reassni'ing or ciaiduci ve to hodily comfort. 
 
 The No;i(ak was now a mere chain of rapiils following in ipiick succession, and eacli seem- 
 ing (o surpass i(s predecessoi' in the dangers involved. 
 
 Shortly afler s(ar(ing in the moi'iiing. whih^ p.assing one of these jilaces. I lost my footing 
 and was precipitated into the river. After gaining the hank and tinding that the c<ild hath had 
 not de|)rived nie of speech. I gave vent to my feelings in a n\anuer which could not he mis- 
 taken. I)ut the siiltject of my remarks heing somewhat irrelevant, they may he omitted here. 
 
 The channel of tlie river now became alarmingl.v stu(lde<l with dangerous rocks, ami in 
 progressing neither the paddles nor tracking line could he used. The cr(tss currents resulting 
 from this rendered the c;inoe ipiiie nnmanageahle. and I w.as freipiently obliged to jump into 
 the river to avoid disaster. Shortly after \i<ion we passed two large tribut;iries. entering in (do.se 
 proximity on the left hank, above whi<di the volume of th<» already shallow I'iver was .so dimin- 
 ished that further jvrogress was almost impossible. N<!ar the mouth of one of these tributaries 
 there is an \)n\isually dangerous rapid, where (he sharp angular nicks .seemed to threaten us 
 with imm(i<liate destruction. 
 
 As the condition of Nel.son's lieaKh was anylhing but rea.ssuring, I in.sisted on his romain- 
 iug in the cau<x!, and, after the severest (•xeilion, succoodod in dragging it through tho rapid, 
 
70 CRUISE OF TIIK HTKAMKU COIIWIN. 
 
 not, liowovor, hcl'on' p'ttiiij; my lliird Icitli diiriiii^ tlic iliiy in IIh- coM whIcis uI' tlin ri cr. 
 Tims flic (lay pjissrd. ami liy iii;;litfall I he rliilliiiK rlTccls "' tli*' wnrU liuil I'oinplctcly Ix'iiiiiiMx'il 
 me with cold, and \V(^ iiilclicd cam]) just lii'lorc tlu^ cnmmt'nccmcnt oi' a drcncliin^ rain. 
 
 Wii had n<iw j^jaincd a |>iiiiit, as accurately as 1 cmild cHtiinatc. ahoiit live humlrcil miles 
 from the coast, havin;; accomplished the distance in twenty-seven days" time. The journey 
 
 thus far had 1 u nuule wil lioiit serious accident, and our frail canoe was still sei'vicealiie, not- 
 
 witliHtandiuK the rou^h usage lo which it had lieen suhjeetcd. Th(> condition f)f the river was 
 now such that it was not pi'udent to proceed furthei' with the hidarka, f( v shoidd any accident 
 occur we shoidd have no nnviris of relnrninj^ to the coast. No mateiiid of any description 
 CHHihl he found with which to construct a. raft, it heiiifj fully two iimidied miles to the nearest 
 timher Ki'"wth. In view of the fact, I determined to lea\'e the canoe and proceed on foot as fai' 
 us circumstances permit, hoping in the mean time to rea(di the source of t he river. 
 
 On viewing the stream from a iieighhoring hill it hecaine very evident that we had jiassed 
 till! lieiul of hoat navigation and a point considerahly aliove that traveled hy tht^ natives. The 
 river was now very narrow, and in most places the wati-r did not exceed a, foot in depth. 
 
 The following morning, July ■'!!, as we made prejiai'ations for starting, the rain hegaii to 
 fall in torrents, and ! did not consider it a<lvisahle to proceed. During a lull in the storm I 
 e.xamined the river aliove for ahout two miles, hut found no change for the hetter; rajiid fol- 
 lowed rapid, and with our previous experience in the work, I re.-ilized that it would lie inipos- 
 sihle t<i get a lioat through in safety. After returning to caiii|i we hauled the canoe out and 
 curried it to a place of safety, where it was concealeil. 
 
 Early the following morning we resiimeil our journey, taking with ns a small (|iiantity of 
 lirovision. together with the instruments. The rain had now turned to sleet, and. dri\eii hy 
 the fierce hlast, it cut us to theipiiidv. Thus iielted hy the merciless storm we continued to 
 follow the river. The siirroiindiiig region, a rolling ]ilain, was partly covered with snow and 
 water. The vast 'aiiifall seenii'd to ha ve iniiiiilated the ent ire count ry, ami at times wi were 
 ohliged to waile throiigli the half-fro/.eii moors, which extende(l to the very hanks of the 
 stream. 
 
 Thus We journeyed along, our work lieing unmaikeil hy incident of note. i.,ate in the day 
 we gained an eminence on the right hank, which I determined to ascend for the purpose of 
 obtaining a view of the siirioumling country. Leaving Nelson at the foot of flu' hill to ]ire- 
 pure coffee, I clanihered up the steep sides, taking with im^ only the com])ass. The scene which 
 met my gaze upon gaining the height was one of ntter desolation. In every directic". as far 
 as the eye I'ould reach, the dreary expanse of tundra, covered with small lakes and half-fi'ozeii 
 marshes, stretched uway in the distance. The Noiitak. no longer the stately river which flowed 
 into the sea. had degeiierateil into ;i mere ramliling creek, the wiiti-rs of which would not float 
 even our light camH\ Not a vestige of life was to he seen. Kven the lianly water-fowl, that 
 seek the solitudes of the far north, seemed to have forsaken the region. 
 
 As I stood on the height, pelted liy the storm and chilled hy the fierce Ai'cfic blasts, my 
 thoughts turned hack to the home of other days. The fearful I'ontrasf of the scene liefore nie 
 and the other, so distinctly pictureil on the ]iages of memory, left no room for expression, and 
 with a sigh of relief I turned and joined Nelson helow. lT)ion reaching the spot I found him 
 vainly emleavoring to start a lire. There was no wood of any descri])tion to he found, and the 
 dead grass was ,so thoroughly soaked as to utterly refuse to ignite; and. cold and fatigued as we 
 were, we started hack toward oiir camp, aliout twelvi' miles helow. and at a, late hour we 
 reaclufd it. 
 
 We had now gone liey<ind the head of canoe navigation and had reacheil. |iractically speak- 
 ing, the headwaters of the river. The vast nuniher of lakes whicdi covered the face of the 
 country, all of which were draineil hy the river, made it evident that it could not ho truced to 
 one source. Aliove us the Noiitak divideil info several hranclies. and as none were navigahh'. 
 fnrtlier jirogress was manifestly impossihle. Every effort had lieen made to ac<'omjilish the 
 object of the expedition, and now that we had achieved all that lay in onr power, I determined 
 to retreat without delay. 
 
C'RUIHK OF TMK HTKAMRR ColtWIN. 71 
 
 Tilt) (»xi'rti<)iiM(if tlifdivy iHTviims liiid wciiiicd iiMMoincwliiit; niiis('(|ii<<Mtly \v« wcri' not uHtir 
 till H Into JKiur tlid folldwiiiK morning. TIk' sloi'in imw iiicrrjiscil in viciii'iict'; the sin. ill lininks 
 mill (Treks litiil swiillm into lnri'i'iils, in ('iiiisiM|iii'ni')' nf wliicii tin- No/ituk I'nsr with aliii'iiiiii^; 
 niliidity hikI l>id t'liir to liciiij^c (lie siirioimdin:; cuimtry. I ni>\v di'tcniiinfd to |iri'|);irt' fur mif 
 rotiini trip; tlin (•■•iiinc liiid Iraki 'd Itadly iliii'iiiic tiu' lasl IVw djiysul' its usf. jdllinii;;li nn di'l'iTlivr 
 HPiiMiH cdiilil lie fniinil. Kiuiilly. liDWc^vcr, I ri'inuvcii i>ii«'i>r tlix iMitclii'siiiid sultstiliifi'd ii lar^jcf 
 i)nn, a nii'asurr whii-li iinin'ovt'd fliinj^s inatrrially. Tin' disi-iiiiirurl urrasioin'd l)y siltiny; in a 
 |)iM)l of water ('annul he aplly di'scrilicd, Init it is not prmlnitixc i>t a I'lii'iTriii IVainc id' mind. 
 
 After liaving ovorlwiulcd tlu" hidai'ka. and |ii'i'paratinns lirin;; nnidr I'm' dcpai'lnri'. \v<> 
 awaited more propitiuns weather to lii'eak eanip, allhuni^h nu chantce Icxik plaeednrini; the day. 
 
 Anj^ust :i, like Ihe days pn din;;, opened veiy stormy, with the rain I'aJiin^' he.'ivily; the 
 
 river had risen sevtM'al feet dnrin;; the ni^ht and had nearly reached the camp, inakin;; it neces- 
 sary to move withont delay. Notwithsl.'unlinK the down-ponr. we tiroke camp, lannched the 
 cmoe, and lia-stily loaded it with onr elVects in readiness for moving', 'i'o start down the river 
 at that time scmed like a ha/ardons undertakinL;. I' :>r the ordinary dan;;ers had now doiihli'd; 
 hut at all events we conld not I'einain in our present position. Alioul this lime Ihe thought of 
 possilile danger to the (Nidm occur'red to me, and the alarmin;; rapidity with which the river 
 continued to rise was not at all reassurini;. The ciche l.'iy alioiit one hundred ar;d Iwenly-live 
 miles below our i)resent. location; to reach it that day would involve ;.;i'eat exertion, nnd was an 
 nMderta,kinjf fraught with danger. After consulting Nelson, in whose .ju(lf,'ment 1 had the riiliest 
 (ionlidence. it was dclermined lo st;irt at once. 
 
 To descrilio the incidents ol' that e.\citini< race would rniuire an aider [ten 1li;ui mine; the 
 dangers en(!ouiiten*d on the a.sci'nilin^? journey were now doubled. Rocks which befoi'e were 
 
 jilainly visible were now partly hidden by the tl I. ;ind evei'y faculty w;is reipiired to avert 
 
 constantly impendint; destruction. In places of this kind the s|ieed at which we travided left 
 no time birdebjite; an obstruction was no .sooni'i' si)j;hted than we were upon it. Now resting 
 on our paddles while borne swiftly alon^. the next- moment we were straJnin^ every muscle to 
 avoid the rocks which suddenly joomed up ahejul and towards which we were dashiii^; with 
 loconiotive speed. In places wliei't- the rocks were entirely submeri^ed. the cinoe seenu'd to l)e 
 drawn tow.-ird them by souu* irresistible force, and before we learned to detect tlies(^ pl.-ices we 
 had more tluvn one escape from disaster. My fears in repaid to tin' cache were ^I't'iitly increiused 
 by Ii ml iuLC tho.se of the natives in very precarious sit nations, a fact which jiroved the llooij to 
 bo almost unprecedented in extent. Sever.il of those we passed wi're in dangerous pro.vimity to 
 the water, ;ind in a.ll probability were snliseipient iy destroyed. 
 
 'Hie story of thiseventfid day is one of excitemerd .'ind dan^'er; time jind spiice cannot 1)0 
 ilevidcii to the subjecl. 
 
 About the middle of the afternoon, having; Journeyed over seventy miles, mir exertions 
 be^an to tell upon us. and it was determined to halt, for a brief rest. 
 
 The rain continued .it intei'vals dui'ini; the il;iy. and fi'om Ihe appearance of the banks it 
 was evident the river had not reached the hiL(h-water mark. After a delay of about thirty 
 minutes, we a^ain launched forth on the swollen stre;im and I'esumed the Joui-ney; on and on 
 we sped, and oni' novel race became intensely exciting. The day was now far s])ent and wo 
 almost des]);iired of I'cachin^ the cache in tinn' to save it from its imminent damper; l)ut with 
 the determimitiou to do our best, v,'(( j)lied the paddies with redoubled vi^or. 
 
 Tluf sun sank lower and lower lus we dashed onw.-ii'd toward the mountains wliere tho 
 cache lay, and finally the dark mass of storui-clouih; which overshadowed them bni-st asunder 
 and rtnealiii their outlines in the distance. Tlu^ loni; twiiii^ht of the Arctic snnuner I'idl upon 
 us as wo entered tho Hats throuj^li which tho Noiltak tiows before entoring the mountains 
 beyond. 
 
 To n\y dismay, however, the river was found to spread over the entire section; a fact 
 which i)ut us decidedly olV our bc-iriui^s. The main clniinKd, on the 'n.'inks of which the cache 
 lay, (!ould not bo distini^uished, an emer^'ency lor which I was not j)rc]»ared, ,'ind, well-inj.;Ji 
 overcome with (lisapi)ointment, we di-ifted helplessly oriw.ard, ciriufj; little wh.ero the water's 
 might sweep us. In vain did we scan the banks for a traci; of the familiar spot, but every 
 
72 t'UUlHK OK TUK STEAM KR C'OHWIN. 
 
 nioiiiciit our fears iiwrrnsftl tluit we wrn- \i> In- (Icxuiird li» i1isii|i|MiiritiiH>ii(. Tims wi" drifted 
 onward, tire<l and (les|inni|,'nl, when, alioiit a lialf mile lielow, a elnni|> of willows was seen, 
 around and iliroiiKli wliieli tlie waters of I lie swollen riv«r went waNliinK. und, as a lH>t lio|Kt, 
 the caiioi' was turned tnwai'd it. As we were lioi'iie swiftly hy I reco>;ni/ed the spot, and with 
 ai\ exehiniiition of joy we dropped oiir paddles and grasped the lAeihanKinK l>on><hs to cheek 
 th(« mad career of the eanoe, A moment later the precioiiH Imrdeii was ItiHhed to the liidarka, 
 and we determined to seek the first suitable place for camping. It was now very late, and the 
 western skies, still li;;litenec| liy the niidni^dit sun, KMide(l us to a resting place, where our lon^, 
 advent nious journey was h.-ippiiy at an end. 
 
 The next morninu; was liriKid and cheerful, a beautiful contrast to the weeks of storm 
 which we had experienced,- ami our spirits were in accord with the day. Thelon^aml arduouH 
 task of the previous day i-ansed us to sleep late, and it was not until l() o'clock that we .saw tim 
 li>,dit of the sun. As .scjon as pos.sible all of our wet auddanwiKe<l outfit was spreail to dry, und 
 a few hours latur t<very1hinK wan in order a^ain. At noon, I obtained a meridian idt it ude, and 
 dnrinj^ the remainder of the day prepared foi- the continuance of our journey on the followinjf 
 inorninj{. 
 
 It was a matter of conj^ratidat ion that we succ(>ede<l in reaching our cache, for, as 1 had 
 nnti<'ipate(|, the ri\'er coritinueil to rise during; the id^dit, andaver> few hours latei' would have 
 swept jiwjiy our su|ppiies. The loujj; race wasoueof exi'itenient and no\'elty, and having litei-- 
 ally as well as fi>i;urati\ely " saved our bacon," we had ample pi'ovision to carry us to the coast. 
 Before starting; next moriun;; we indulKe(l in the luxury of a hearty me.-d, a pleasure which we 
 had not enjoyed for .snme weeks past. 
 
 ( )nr path now lay f lirnii;f|i the nioiintaiu district, by far the most interest iujj section of the 
 river. 'I'he pleasure and excitement ofatrip through the luountainscan harilly be realized; 
 the narrow defiles anil deep canons, beautiful valleys, and I'ollin^ hil' , iill'ord such a variety 
 of scenery that the eye ne'.er tires, and scene passessceneouly too ipiickly. It was pleiisant as 
 we j;li(led alouK to rej^anl the swiftly niovinj^ banks ; the "frackiu)? line," toj,'ethir with the 
 attendant toil and the iuvolunfary baths, were now thiuK^* i>f the past, and the genuine comfort 
 afl'orded by the rellecfiim was fully worth the weeks of labor expended in its attainment. 
 
 The rivei' had fallen abuiif eifrhf feet diiriuji 'h'' |"i^l day ; indeed, that peculiarity w.-is one 
 of the most noteworthy, showing conclusis j that the volnmt^ is due entirely to the rain and 
 snow falland not to a coii.'.iMnt supply. Having an abundiince of time, \\r proceeded leisni'cly, 
 using our paddies only sufliciently to all'ord steerage-way, and at '■> p. m. went into camp. 
 
 During the rem.'iinder of the day we replenished our lardei' with game, an abundance of 
 water-fowl being found on ji neighboring lake. The weather still coiitiuued stormy, with rain 
 and westerly winds, iilthoiigh much Wiirmer than that experienced on the table-lands. 
 
 Being desirous of obl;iiiiing meridian obsei'v.'itions at this point, we did not best iron I'.selves 
 until late 'lextniorning ; meanwhile we employed our tinu' with necessai\v overhauling until 
 about ft lock, when! directed Nelson to launcli the boat and jn'epare forgetting underway. 
 After oblainiug .•iltitudes we aj^ain l.iunched foi'lh on the swift current. 
 
 The Work of tr.neliug w;is now comparatixely light ; the paddles were plied easily in order 
 to givi^ the cinoe steer,ige-w':iy, although the fretpient recurrence of rapids rendered a sharp 
 lookout, necess.iry. .Abont '.' o'clnck we entered the foot-hills of the range through which the 
 river flows before its final enti\ into I he flat lands below. Late in t he exeuiug we gained the rapids 
 above the cartons, ami. with a. common impulse, grasped the paddles for the coming struggle. 
 Fiuiilly. after rounding a sharp turn, the caflons suddenly loumed up ahead, the lofty wallsof 
 which towei-ed liundi'i'ds of feet above us. Swiftly we wei'e drawn in by the rushing waters 
 and soon gained the gloomy depths of the gorge. Kvery faculty was now on the alei't, for the 
 <langers seemed tomidtiply .-is we advanced. The wild rush of the river, mingled with the 
 sci'eam of tins eagles and the madly dushing canoe, all contributed to the excitement of the 
 moment,. 
 
 The wallsof thecauons form an interesting geological study, although but littleop]K)rtunity 
 was given us during the piissage through to note the many points of interest. The remarkable 
 ljgur"S formed by the bent and twisted strata, api)arently the result of suniu violent cunvulsioQ 
 
CRIIIHK OK THK HTKAMKU COKWIN. 73 
 
 of niiturt\ Hiinj>ly defy <|fHcri|>ti<>M. One nf (lie wumi iioUcohIiIi' hIkIiIn wiv* an ininiotiHo lt>(t«>f 
 Z, fonntMl <ltiiilitluHH liyHonut Kt'ctit iiiiIiohv'uI wliii-li lnMit tin* stnittt in tlix Nliii|Mt ilcscrilxMl ; tin* 
 
 iiii^l<-s III' tlic IvKcr vv<<i'<> well ili'liiii'il iinil llii< rnlii II'itI hd ,st rikin^ hs In rcnilcr il. it niuHt. 
 
 i-iMiiiii'kulili- |ilit'M(iiiit'n<*n. 
 
 Tli)< joiiriK'y lliron^li tlio cHnonM is iu'i'iini|ilisliri| only too Hoon, itml iiH wi> tiiiully i'Mmmx*''! 
 fi'iiMi till' ;;liii>iiiy ilrptlix. with u ruin im mi iniiiiiisi' wi- tiirni'il tii^;i/,i> micp iiinri' at thrir wiuiilri's, 
 as if ti> iiii|ii'i'ss tiii'in ii|miii IIh' ini'imii'y. 
 
 \V'i> li'l't till- ^ramli'iii- i>l' tlii> iiiniiiitaiiis lii'liiml iis ami |iliiii^i'il iiitn that ilrcai'y Htri'ti'li of 
 tlat.s llii'oii^li wliirli tlii> I'ivi'i' runs uininst In tin- sra. ami mir wmk, nn liinKi'r'iimiiiK tlii'Htiinn 
 latiiij; Hri'iii's (li'MiTil)i'il. In'canit' ii mi>nntMiiiiiis ami rlii'i-rli'ss iluty. At i! o'clnck we wonl into 
 (•am 1 1 for tin' iii!j;lit, liaviii^' roviTi'il tlii' jioflion of rivi'f asci'mii'il on July It, l">. ami Itl. a far) 
 wliicli will convi'y an iili-a of tin- velocity of tlic I'lii'iriit. 
 
 Till" iM'xl morning Nelson was ilispatclii'il in si-anli of K'^'in'. an ahiiniliviift' of wliirli was 
 foninl in tlie vicinity. Laixc nnniht'i's of jj;i'i'si>, dnck, aini wailinu; liiiils nest in this ri'^^ioii ainl 
 I'l'inain until early fall. At the time of our linmesvanl journey the yount; hinls were well 
 grown anilalVonleil oni'of the greatest luxuries iinav;inal>le. es)iee tally after the souiewhat a list e- 
 niious diet which had lieeu forced upon ns durimj,- the suininiT. 
 
 One of the v^i'ealest niisfoilunes that liefelj us was the loss of our salt, .in accident which 
 ucciin'ed some time previous, and the lack of which was keenly felt, it is one of the most iudis- 
 peiisalile accessions to :i camping outlit. iind Ki'<'at cire should he taken to have an ahnndiint 
 supply. 
 
 Shortly liefore noon wi a,LC;iin lii'oke cai.ip and resiiineil oui" way tlii'oui,di the lower wildei'- 
 ness. 'I'hc liiyh water, owiii),' to the slill-coiitiuued rainfall, remlere I our work comp.'iratively 
 liiflil and the rate of speed correspoiidin^cly rapid, in its coiir.se throu;r|i the Hats the Noiitak, 
 
 no loiii,'!'! nlini'd l»y the wall of niourdains. spreads itself over a larj,'e portion cif the \alley. a 
 
 feature that makes it ditlii-nlt at times to locate the main channel. It was j^enerally possihle to 
 do so. however, liy followiii^^ tlie stron^'er current. 
 
 Durintc the afternoon the rain fell in tMrrents. whicli. accompanied hvacold wind. created 
 much discomfort. 
 
 The distant inonntains were covered hy ii heavy full of snow, and the iiiehMnent weather 
 indicated i.n unusually early winter. The rainfall of the i>as( summer seemed to lie almost 
 unprecedented: certainly duriiii^ my own experience in Alaska I never saw anything; to eipial it. 
 
 Late ill the day we passed a native camp. lint, on account of the storm, passed liy without 
 haltinji. as we wen- desirous of campiim .several miles lielow. 
 
 The next morninp;, Auj^nsts, we determined to reach the coast mountains, if possihle. Iiefoi'e 
 nit^ht. and accordin^lv were astir ;ind read)' to ino\-e eai'ly in the day. The portion of the 
 river hefore us was that covered dnriiii^ the tirst week, ii jiei'lod full of the most painful recol- 
 lections. 
 
 An ill ready st.ated. the No.'itiik is coiilined to no definite channel here, hut. .iccordiiii^ to tlie 
 stajje of water, is sjiread o\er a tract several miles in width. In most porlious. however, there 
 is j^enerally one channel tlironj^h which the jj^i-outei- \<ilnme Hows, and is indicated mi thecliart 
 of the I'l'i^ion. .\s the side channels ;ii'e not of .'1, perni.ineiit, ch.aractei". tliey are not shown on 
 thechiiit. 
 
 Our journey throni,di was devoid of any incident of note. 'I'he current rans from ten to 
 twelve miles ;in lioui'. and. !is we wei-e desirous of j^ainin,i<oiirdestin;itioii hefore ni>i;ht. we jdied 
 tliH paddles viiforously, lio|)iny to accom|>lish it. At noon we halted for lunch, and shortly 
 after startini^ a'.jain jiassed several hidarkas returniuLC from the coast. In couseipieiice of the 
 tlooded river ti>ey were pro^^ressiiu.; very slowly, a spectacle which, I rej^ret to say, ainnsed ns 
 exwodiuKly, particularly «im we wei-e j^lidin;? down on a current of fn'ly twidve knots. 
 
 A .short distiince lielow this we sa'.v seveivil .seal. Jind fiirtlier down (hey becjune very alnin- 
 
 dant. I cannot express the sense of relief .-iirorded hy thes" sitjns of our proximity to the coast. 
 
 Late in tlieday. as we entered the hitch lands of the coast nionnhains. tlieerr.'iticstreaim nonverf^ed 
 
 into one channel. The Noatak now ran parallel with and directly hehinJ the Mulij;ravu Hill.s, 
 
 H. Ex. 15J 10 
 
74 CUUISK OK TIIK H'I'KAMKK COKWIN. 
 
 till! wi'll-ki>:)wn liiii(liiiiirks of Kotssuhuo Hoiinil, iiml, In-hxn fiili^iiiMl rrmii our lnii^ iliiy'H work, 
 wi* liuiili'il out for tho lUKlit. 
 
 Tlu> next <liiy ln-inj? Hiiinliiy, wi« rfiiutintMl in ciiiiip, ffclinj? tliiit iiflfr llif liitnlslii|iH hikI 
 I'litiniirs III' llii" wi'i'k wi' With t'lililli'il III iiiif iliiy fur limlily ri'Ht. AIIIihukIi h'II' |iri>xiinily to 
 tli*i('(MtHt iiiiwlii us Hii.xidUM to cuiirliiili' t III' ,j<)iii'iii>y, I dill mil IVfl wiirrunti-il in liri>akiii>; tlii> 
 riistmn wliirh Wf liml ulmcrvfil iliiriiiK' tin- niliri' .joiiriify. 
 
 Till' rnliiiwiii^' innniiiiK. Iiiiviiii; riilly ri'i'ii|M'i':ili'i| hiu'mi-Ivi's, wi' iuiuIm |in>|iariiti<iiis I'm- iiii 
 »'(ir!y ili'piii'tiiri'. Tlii' ruM iiml i-iiiiiy wrullii-i' wliicli wi- liml i'\|iiTii'iir«'i| so iiiiirnrmiy liiirinj; 
 tln' siimiiiiT K'l^'" iKM'viiifiici' III' iinpriiM'iiii'iit; in I'lirl. a slmrl tinii' iil'ti-r ^(I'llinj; iimlir wnv il 
 licj^nn In ruin vrry lii'iivily, nnil with its nsniil Hrrninpiiiiinii-ntul' picrcinj^ wind it liiid Ihi-i'lViil 
 III' lliiii'iin>^lily rliiHiii^' IIS. 
 
 A sliurt distiiiirr lii'liiw tlii> wuiiip, uIuiik Hh' low. siiiidy Itiinks iiI" tlic rivn'. Iiimdri'ds ol' 
 1,'iTsi' and diirkswurtM'iinj^rt'uiilcd, iv si^lil ri'i'iilliiiK vividly iin (ild-fjisliidiicd pnnllry yard. As 
 WI' piisst'i! Iiy tlii'y manil'i'sli'd no alui'in iiinrr tliiiii to kiTp up mi ini'i'ssani Kal>lilin>;, apjiart'utly 
 di'WaliiiK willi n'pii'd to llu' iiitfiilioiis ol' llic slianp'-lookiriK individiiiiis. 
 
 PriM't'fdiii;^ down llii' rivn- iindfr sail, lor Wf liad tlixwind in our favor, inpid |pro>^nss 
 was iinidi' for sovcrai lioiirs, until a lii'iid in tlii' river hroiiKlit llir lirn-zc alirad, wlii'ii tlii' pad- 
 dles were aj^aiii failed into reipiisition. Karly in tlie day we entered tlie coasl raiiKe. I liroiiKli 
 wli it'll tlie N'oiilak Hows lie I'lire diseliar;;iii^' into Hot ham Inlet. Ah already stated, these nioimt- 
 aiiis are iiiaiked liy many isolated peaks, most of whii'h were covered l>y a heavy fall of snow. 
 At noon we halted for liimdi ; fortiiiialely the rain reased lon^ enough to eiialile ns to dispo.^^e 
 of it with some dej^'n f eonifort, hut soon after starting the weather ussiinied it.s normal con- 
 dition of p'lieral nnplea.santness. 
 
 Alioiit v' o'clock we entered the •• home stretch" of the river and ea^i'i'ly strained our eyes 
 to catch the lirsl ;,'!impse of the sea. In t he distance, on the opposite .shore of the inlet, the 
 ilear-ciit headlands stood onl in hold relief a,y:.ii list t he eveiiinj; sky. The feeliiiH:s of joy and 
 relief which rose wit hin ns fonnd im room for e.\|tressioii. and t he prospect of a speedy termina- 
 lioii of oiir journey, afler the many hardships of the sn miner, was iiid I cheeriiij^. 
 
 As it was now Kelliii^ l.ile, it was determined to camp on the delta, and conclude our journey 
 across t lie inlet iu the morning, in anticipation of reaching.; the reiide/vous in the niorniiiK, we 
 liroke canii) vei-y early and launched the canoe for the last time on the waters of the No.'ilak. 
 
 The morniiiic was hri^^ht, and thesiin, which we had seen .so seldom during; the summer, 
 shone out in a cloudless sky. As we cleared the ri\er and entered the heuiitifiil waters ol the 
 inlet the scene was one to he reniemhered. 
 
 .\fter taking the necessary hear in tjs of the opposite headlands, we took the paddles .•nid 
 stood down the extreme rii^ht outlet of the river. ( >n either side and extemliiij,' far out into 
 the estuary tlicieare lonJ,^ Hat harswhich form a lod;;iii>; phu e for the dehris lii-oii^r|it down l»y 
 the Hoods. The channel is well delined and dee)) ; three fathoms of water are found tlie entire 
 distance, and no dilliciilty was experieii I in lindiiiL; the proper one. 
 
 Aided liy the strong: current which the Nolitak maiiilains to the last, we .soon gained the 
 opposite shore, where the waters of the Kowak and Noatak mingle and How through a common 
 channel into Kot/.eliiie Sound. 
 
 We now headed for I he rendezvous, where 1 hoped to ohtaiii tidings of the Conriii. I'poii 
 I'eachini; the ap)>oiuted pl.-ice we found the coal left for the use of the steam launch, to)j;etlu'r 
 with the letter concealed ill o'le of the sacks. Kroni this we learned that the cutter had j,'oiie 
 to point Harrow, in coiisei|ueiice of which our stay at this point would he somewhat |iriitracled. 
 
 The news of our arrival was soon made known amoiiL; the natives, and duriuK the remainder 
 of the day we had a constant inllux of visitors. 
 
 Many familiar faces were recognized ainoiif^ the nuinher, soim f whom I had seen the 
 year previous on the Kowak. One friend whom I knew very well, Nii^-a-liik-i'iik liy iiaiiic. 
 upon learniiiif that, we were in need of provisions, suddenly disappeared, returning .several 
 hours later with a small (iiiautity of 8U;^ar and a pound or two of whito heans. The simple 
 generosity of th^se untutored jieoplo is very toiichiiiii:. and. small as the gift was, it displayed 
 
CRUIHK (»K 'i:il<: HTKAMKIl (((KVVIN. Tfi 
 
 iikimlly Npiiit litwiinl tlo' HtniiiKiT rrurn wliicli \M'. wlm liiivi'Kr<>itl)'t''>|>l'<"'t>i»itl<*M, liil^lit Icuni 
 
 a wlinli'MiiliH' lrH>4ii|l ill linDlltllit >' IUhI hi'II' ili'lliivl. 
 
 TliiiM llii'diiy |iiiNH(>(| mill tlii< jinii'iipy wiin iit lui I'lid. With I't'cliiif^Hnl' iiili>iiHi> ri>lii>f wt' iaiil 
 iIdwii till' liiinli'tis mill mivii-lii's wliirli luul atlfiiilril niir way, >;nil<'t'iil, ton, (i>v Ilii> iiu-asiiri' nf 
 liiiullli ami Hiu'ccss wliicii had rcwaidcd mir I'tt'ni'ts. 
 
 (IKS HUM. \()Th:s. 
 Tmk nativk p«)IMM,atI()N. — Cinict>rniiiK th»« iiativ*> |Mi|iiilatii)ti of thi' Noiltiik IliviT icKioii, 
 
 tllt> Hlllijcrt lii'cd lint lit> ilu'rlt ll|ioll at h'llKtIl. While llli' I'l'^ioll lllidi'l' diHriisxiuli is I'lit Irrly 
 iD'w toi<x|i|on'i's, till' lilr liiHtory of its |i(mi|iIi> roiild not lie treated at ieiiKtli without repeatiiiK 
 iiimty f'lK-tH which are alreath' well known, utid which in the |ireseiit instance would lie highly 
 niidesiralile. 
 
 My rel'ereiice to the travels of Hecchey and those of other exploi'ers since his time the 
 aii'oiiiils pnlilislied concerniiiK the liy|ier)iiii-eiin races of .Maska aresiin|ily an oft-re|N>iited tale. 
 The coni)mi'iitively few iiiid widely sciittefed iiilialiitanls of this rej^ion area liraiich of the 
 
 liinnit r.'ii'e. or those will cii|iy all that |iiirtioii of the territory lyin^ north of the" 'xon 
 
 Kiver, ('iinsideriiiK the vast extent of that ref^imi, the |io|inlatiiin is (|nite insi^niticiint, miiii- 
 
 lieriii;^ ul most Ihr ir four tlioiisand, all told. ( )f this iiiiiiiher only a very small )iercenlii'; ' 
 
 Iteloii;^ to the Noiiliik ciniiitry. '{'he dillictilty of urriviii^c at an exact estimate of the |Mi|iiiliilio.i 
 is i|nite a|i|)arent, and it is doiilitrni whether the result would repay the lahor iinolved in 
 (ilit.-iinitiK an actual count. 
 
 liike all tlie northern r;ices, these |ieo|ile lead a nomadic life, cliaiiKin); their liase as often 
 as is necessary to liml fresh hunting mid lishin^ i^roiinds, Ihiriiivc the summer months a 
 lar^^e |iorlion of the |io|Milation, or at Icist the more enter|irisin^ |iorlion, joiirney to the coast 
 for the iiiirpose of Iradini;, while the more shiftless elements remain in the villap>s and enjoy 
 the iloiihlfiil lioiiMi' of assistiiiju; the wnineii in lishin;^. In civili/ed coiiimiinities tliist.isk 
 miylit lie regarded with more favor, tnil, if the truth must he told, the spirit of chivalry is not 
 a prominent characteristic of the averapi native, und an individual of this sort is not .ipt to he 
 regarded liy his fellow-men with any tfreat ilej.;ree of favor. 
 
 The j^reater iiorlioii of the inhaliilants reside near the extreme headwaters of the river, to 
 which place they repair on the iijiproach of winter. This locality is selected hecanse of (he 
 peculiar advantaj^es it otVers for hunting und trapping, pursuits which form their sole means 
 
 of Sllhsistelice. 
 
 Uurinj^ the summer niontlis tliey wander up and down tlie river, spending; much of tlie 
 time in lishiiiK and providinv; foi- the needs of the cnniiuK winter. They have no trilial 
 orKajii/ation : there is usually oiih man in a villaf^e who is known as the vomelik, oi' chief, hut 
 he has none of ( he aullmrity usually implied l»y the mime, and practically has no power over 
 the others. Shamanism, or the rule of sU|ierstition, seems to he the only jj^overnlnj; sjiii'it 
 anions them. 
 
 Ill justice to these people, liowever, it should lie added there is little need of aliythili;,' of 
 the kind. The simple code of ri^^lit and wroiii^ which enters into their ileitliii;;s with one 
 another issunicieiit to meet all the reipiirnneiitsof their existence, tiie very simplicity of which 
 is such that evei'y indiviilual fliorou^lily understands it and seldom or never violates the ohli- 
 j^atioiis carried with it. The men are ^ood fathers, kind to their wives, considerate of the 
 a^ei!. and in times of need .seldom fail to iirovide for those depend iii;^ upon them. i|ualities 
 which testify to the etTectiveness of tlieir simple coile of morality. To our shame, however, 
 it iMUsti he coiit'essed that when liroUKht into contact with our lioasted civilization the result 
 lias been disastrous to the native, for he readily imiiihes the vices, hut seldom any of the vir- 
 tues of our race. 
 
 In |ier.son the Nojltak iiutiveH nro niueli taller than those of the c<iast. and apparently 
 unmirked l»y the diseases so prevah-nt amouf^ those of the latter ref^ion. They are also a much 
 hardier [leople. and undouhtedly lon;<er lived as well. The lon>^ and ai'duous journeys of the 
 suniiner. to^^ether with the life of exposure while on their huutin>f trips in winter, are such as 
 call for the greatest physical endurance, and they could not be performed by other than a hardy 
 
T0 f'RUIHK OF THK HTKAMKIl COUWIN. 
 
 rai'K (if |N><i|)|i>. All thiiH«< wIkuii wo Hivw lit lliiM-iMtHt, lNi|unKiiiK<>ii tlio Noiltiik, wi>n< pliyNicully 
 iif II Hii|HM'i<ir iiri|i>i', ttmi wlioii hi>i>m in |ii'i>xiiiiity tn \\m>hv HiiltjiTt tn tlin (li'liitHiiiK iiiliin-iici'H nf 
 tiit< iilii'il. tntilxi'x, (III' ciiiitnixt was rxully HturtliiiK. Aiiioii^ ilii< iiiiiiilM>r witc Mi-vrnil v<>i-y ii|i| 
 iiiuii. wliicli, liH JH wt'll ktiiiwn, JH u mr«* nIkIiI iuikmi^ llii< imrtln'rii ntn>N. 
 
 Niitivfs 1)1' llii> Nitiilikk I't'^inii lii'K ill ciiiistunt loiiuiiiiiiiriilinii wilji tliuHr III' till' Kiiwitk. 
 mill jHiMHilily aJHii with fliuHc uf tin- Knynknk Ki\i'r; llii' liitlir riul, Iiuvvivit, I ritiiiint t>\utv 
 
 with iiiiy lU'nx of rci'likiiity. Knuii their own iir'-iiiinlH, thrii< Ih tm rnniiiiiiiiiiiktiiiii with lhi> 
 
 Cnlviili' iir any nthiT rivrr llnwiiiK luiitlivviiri! into Ihi- Antic (►ci'iiii; iinl I. it is vi'iy ilmilil- 
 
 I'lil whi'lhi'i' Ihiit I'l'^iiiii in iiihiiliiti-ij at all. 
 
 Ill till' ii'ii'iilly issiii'il ri'|Mirt ul' Lii'iitiiuint Uay, I'. H. A iiuiTiiiiiK liin wmk at I'niiii 
 
 Darniw, lii> iiiakcM im iiii'iitinii nj' haviiiu iiiiiiiiiiiiiicali'il with any nativiH rrmn tlir intirinr. 
 ir any WIT)' kiDiwn ti) inhaliit thi> viilloy of the ('nlvilli>. it. si>i>niN ini)i-i> than piiilialih' tliat thi> 
 point Marrow nativi-s wonlil havi> soini' kiiowirilp' of tin- I'arl. Iiiilci-il. Ihr liarri'ii anil inhuH- 
 |)ifalili' rhiirarliT of thai ri'j^ioii almost pn'rhiilrs tin- iijisi of any Hi'ttii-niriit ••xisliii;; thiTi'. 
 
 Ill ri'uanl to Ihi' iiiiiiilM>r inhaliitin^ the Noi'itak Valley, I'stiiiiiktfH |iri'|ian><| t'roin the lit-Ht 
 oltlainaliii' (lata |i!iii'i' llii' niiiiilN'i' at two hiiiiilri'il ami lui'iity-livi-, wliirli it is Ihoiij^rhl f'lilly 
 ciivt'i-s till' total iiojiiilatioti. 
 
 MISKKM. HKsaCHCES. 
 
 It woiilil lie a liillii'iiit matter I'or any oni' nnl hav iii^' a s| ilir know lei li;e ol' the siilijert to 
 
 Htute, with any ili>>;ree of eei-tainty, what minerals iniKht he I'oiinil in the region, 'riie iMiixory 
 
 nianiier in wliirli th uiiitry was iieressarily exainineij as we jniirneyeil tliroiit^h it woiiM 
 
 lianlly ailmil ol' any positive assertion on llie siili jeel. 
 
 Htranj^eiy enough, we saw no fviilenee of eoal in any |iortiiiii ol' the re>,'ioii. Not witlislaml- 
 iiiK its alMiiiilani'e aloiiK the Lower Kowak Uiver. we t'oiiml no imliralions of it aloii^' the 
 Noillak, or any laml wliieli mi^hl lie presiinied to possess a coal-lieariiiK t'ormat imi. 1 1' I his lie 
 
 the ease, the eoal-lieit, which was sniiposeij to extellil I'lom the \icinily ol' Cape IJslilillie ill a 
 
 southerly iliiection liiroiif^h llie territory, is hiokeii in the valley ol' the Noiilak. In ren;aril to 
 other niineitiis, especially k*'I<I< I havi* not it Hiitllcieiit knowleil^;!' of the siilijecl to make piml 
 any assertion concerning' it. 
 
 I have seen ipiani it ies ol' iron a.mon^;j the natives, which they say is roiinil aliiiiiilaiil ly in 
 this region, ami coiiceriiiiiK the I ruth of which I am alnmst positive. The ^reiit similarity e\ist- 
 in&r lietweeii the inountaiiioiis portion of the cininlry ami other localities where iron is a staple 
 pro<liicl Icails iiie to liclicve that such is iimloiilitcill>' llie case, all hoiii;h, with an iiiliorn 
 slu'ewiliiess. the natives steailily rel'nse to iliviilj,'e the locality. 
 
 F saw. in the lieil of the i-iver. i|iiantities of the so-callei| jaile. which in reality proves to 
 lie serpentine, ami which is prolialil\ romiil in the inoiinlains. \f\ the mil ive cache, mention nl' 
 wliii h is made elsewhere, we fonml a larye iimiilier of im|ilemeiits made ol' the lines! translu- 
 cent nephrite, or j^reenstone, and whiidi nndoiilili'dly came I'rom this rejjioii. || is a. matter ol' 
 iniicli reK'"<'< tli'it I cannot throw any additional liuld upon this interesting Huli.ject lieyoiid tho 
 mere mention ol' the jjicl. 
 
 Althoiijjh the implemenls in ipiestion would iiave lieeii excei'dingly valiiiilile, I did not 
 feel wiirruiited in luolestiiig them, 
 
 ORMTIIornilV. 
 
 It is to lie r(')?rettod that the time at my disposal was not sullicieiit to I'orm an exlcnded 
 series of oliservations on this siiliject ; those snlmiilled are merely i iM^mentary, or sindi as canie 
 under my observation while in the iierformance of other duties, and noted at moments of 
 leisure. 
 
 Tlie species enumerated in tlie followiii'.; syno|)sis should not lie taken as a complete list, 
 liut may at least serve to indicate those varieties most common and characteristic of the 
 region. 
 
 The numbers refer to tliose iu Ilidgway's "Catalogue of North American Birds," 
 
OKVBE OK TMK STKAMKU (OUWIX, 77 
 
 3 Hyloolohla allolia /'iilrrf (liur cMrKKrn Ttiiit xii 
 
 A Nci'v roiiiiiiDti iiikI iiiixli'i'iilt'lv liliumliuit ii'Niili'iit iif lliK i>iitir«i ri<Ki<»i- N«>HtH oitrly in 
 July, iiiiil ili-|NkHH lliii liiticr |N»rl of AiikohI. 
 
 7 Maiula inlgiatorU (r.<NN, |, .Vh'. uhH IHik. Amkiiiian Kdhiw. 
 
 Uittliir li'ss niiiiii'i'oiiH. Iiiil iii-Hi'ly <'i|iiiil in iiiiiuo with tlii< |ii'c>ci'(tinK Hp«>fioH. (yi)iiHiit«<l 
 I'liii'lly to till' liiwi't' mill nil Ml II I It ill mitI imiM ul' llu' li vrr, 
 
 9 U»»fi»toolohlm n»vU{tlm0l.), Ilulrit. Vahikd KuliiN. ' 
 
 A HJnKli' N|M'<itiii<n *>( tliix lN>aiit fill l>iril in llii' only rcronl olitiiiiii<i|. I'oNMihIy ii Hti'itKKl<'i' 
 fioin llii< Kovvuk V'nilcy, wIikii' il in tiiuiii'iitlcly iilniiiilitiit iliiriiiK IIh> siiiiiidit. 
 
 49. Pdtiia Hiidaonlou* /'iiia«. Mi'Imuni \n Ciin k aukk. 
 
 A K'gulur rcsiili'iit of tlii< liinln'n-il Hrition ol' tlit> vHll**y; pi^rtiuily iniKiutoi-y timing tho 
 wiiitur. 
 
 148 La'illea borealla I'lVi//. (Ikkat Ndiitmkkn Hiihikk. 
 
 ConiniDii ill tlii'liiwi ruiiil nioiiiiliiiiKlisiritts, iiltliou^ii iiotHliiiuilitnt itnywh*>n>iiitli(t Noiltitk 
 
 rt'ninii. Ni'sts ill till' s|iriiri' tiinlirr. 
 
 194. Httuiidn etyihiognatia l<»i(>l. Hahn Hwai,i/iw. 
 
 Kuiuiil t>vi>i'y\vli)>ri* in vitiyiiiK liliniKliiiict', *-s|H>ri'illy in tint t iciiiity of the iiliiiiiiloii*>i| liiitH 
 • if till' iiiitivt's. IIhvk scfii till' iit-sts ill pliii'i's iiT lliis kiinl, 
 
 137. Cotlle rlp.4rla ihiiiii). Univ. Hank S\vai,i.u»v. 
 
 Miiili Ifs.siiliuiiiliint tiiun tiifpivcutiinK Mpwius. ThobunkHof thuiiviTiiiv not well mluptoii 
 for thcin, 
 
 193>f. Paaalioulua anmiroheiiala aavaiina (IIV/m.i, Hiili/ir. S.w ann.v Mi-akkiiW. 
 
 A|>|)^ii'i'iil ly Mill aliiiiKJiiiil ill any si'rlioii; tiulril mi .i I'l'W ni-r.'isinns. itmi tin- fiiTniliur hoiik 
 was iilti'ii liranl wIh'Ii llu- siii-fii-H was iiol si'i'u. I'inlialily a, n'Kuliir .Miiiniiu'r ri'.sidcnt. 
 
 307(1. Zoiiotrlolita gambeli intermedia llidnii'. Intkkmkdiatk WlllTK-ritiiWNKli MI'akkuw. 
 
 Nil! I 'I I nil .Mi'vi'i'ul i>i'ciisiiinsaiuii;,'(li(«lo\vt'i- rivrr. A iMNintifiil Imt ntitiiniil>untlantstinK«tt)r. 
 
 308. Zonotricbla ooronata {I'ull.). Hninl. (tiu.HK.N r|{ii\vNi:ii Si'Aitituvv. 
 
 Konnil in IJKt hhiiic lociilitins ami almut imjiihI nuinhiUM witli tlic )irfiiMlin^s|»t'iit«s. A ro).;- 
 uiiir s\iiniiii'r rt'sitlcnt, nesting; in tlic Iiu.hIich ulonj^ f in' liuiiks. 
 
 373. Scolecoph.igtia fernigiiieua I'i'm.). Siniiim. UlsTY l!l,AtKlilHl>. 
 
 A small llofk wiis uliscrvfil almin tlu' lnwt'r rivrr mi mii> ocrasioii; possilily only Htrag^hti'H 
 frmii I 111' Kowak Valli'y. wiitTo tiu-y aif imiiiciati'ly aliiimlant. 
 
 380. Cotvua ootax oariiivorua (Uiirlr.). Hi(l(iii\ Amkrica.n Kavkn. 
 
 A niiiiii'i'alrly aliiiiiijant I'i'siili'iit of tlif fiitiri' rfj.fimi. Ni-sts in llut sprncc tiiiilii'i' almiK 
 till) riviT liaiiks, ami is partially niii;ratmy iliiriiiLj tin- winter. 
 
 397^. Perlsoreua caiiadenaia fiiniifroiia UiiUjif. .SMuKY-l''itii.N'rKii Jav. 
 
 A siuiiint'i' ri'siilimt of tim tinihftrtttl ilislrict. and notwl on Htn'tTuI or(^a.sioiis in the vicinity 
 of our camiisfmlfavorinj^to follow Its pilf.'riii^ instincts. MijfralcsloSmitlicni Alaska durinj.? 
 tilt' svi liter season. 
 
 383. Ceryle aloyon (/,/»».). /Jn/c. Hki.tk.d KtNiiKlHHF.H. 
 
 A vtM'y rare simimei' resilient; pussilily mily a sti'a^culer from the rewi"!' '>•' tho Kowak. 
 
 406. Nyctea soandiaca [Linn.), Neirt. Hndwy Owl. 
 
 Api>aveiitly not ahumlaiit, at least it (lid not fall nmler my observation excopt at rare 
 intervals. Uudoubtodly a resident dnring the entire year. 
 
78 CRUISE OF THE STKAMER CORWIN. 
 
 420. Tunnlnculua sparverlus {Liiiii.). V'icill. HrAitiiow Hawk. 
 
 Moi'oor loss iil>iiii(liint tliroii^l-.Dut tho rcKi''". l»iit |)riiK'i|)(illy in tlio inountaiu districts. 
 Nosts iilxnit the iiiiilillc of July. 
 
 430. Circus Hiidscnlus (/.ni II.), \'iiill. Marhii Hawk. 
 
 KiMiiid ivl)iiii<'.iiitly ailing llic lower I'ivcr; quite (Miiniuoii. Ni'st.s in the spruco timlici' early 
 in July. 
 
 447. Archibuteo lagopus Sancti-Johaiinis ifi'//ii7. 1, liiiliin: .X.mkiui'an Koi'dil-l.KiKiKK Hawk. 
 
 Noted ill several iiist-uiees. and tlie nests found in two instances, along tlie loui r river. A 
 regulai' migrant to Nortliern Alaska. 
 
 491. Haliaeetus leucocephaliis (l.iiiii.). Surii/. Hai.d Kaiii.i:. 
 
 A I'egidar snniiner resident ;iiid nesting coinnionly 'n the inoiintain districts. Tlie most 
 common bird of prey in tlie region. 
 
 474. Lagopub ^Ibua (O'm.). Ami. Wii.i.ow I'TMtMKlAN. 
 
 Found commonly in pairs, liut apparently not aliui .liint in any locility. A resident ol' the 
 mountain and tahle-land district. The young are fleilged ahont the middle of July. 
 
 513. Squatarjla Helvetica {Linii.\. Ciir. Iti.ACK-iiKi.i.ii'.D I'lovkii. 
 
 A coiiimon resident of every part of this region, usually found in pairs, and nests in every 
 locality. 
 
 514. CharadriuB pluvialis l.iiiii. (im.DKN I'l.ovi'.K. 
 
 A small llock ol)served in'ar t lie extreme jioinl reaidieil is the only record in the region. 
 They proliauly nest in the far north. 
 
 517. .Sjgialites semipalmatus /^iiKiyi. Skmiivm.mvti'.d I'l.nVKit. 
 
 Observed commonly in pairs throiigiiont the lower river districts. Nest on the sand or 
 gravel hanks early in July. They are not un ahmiilant spe<'ies. 
 
 527(1. MacrohatnphiiB griseus soolopaoeus (.s'l///). ('inns. Ki'.n iti;i.i.ii:ii SMrK. 
 
 A very Mhiiiidaiit species on the upper portion of the river. Al't^ the nesting season they 
 associate in large tlocks and migrate the latter part of August. 
 
 538. Aotodromas miuutilla (IVciW.), lij). I.k.vst .Sankimi'ek. 
 
 Found throughout the i-egion, cliietly in pairs. l)iit n it ahniulant anywhere ; nndouhti'dly a 
 regular resident. 
 
 541. Breunetes puBilluB (IJini.). f'li.sx. Skmicai.matki) SAM>rMi;u. 
 
 A moderately aluindaiit wader, found chielly along the lower ri\er, ;iiid nesting wherever 
 found. 
 
 542. Calidris arenaria (/-/»».), ////;/. .SANnmu-lNii. 
 
 Ohservjul on several occasions along the gravelly hanks of the lower ri\er. .\p|)arently a 
 summer resident, although ii'regularly distiilniteil. 
 
 549. Totaiius flavipes ((/i/ir/.), I'/Vi'//. Yki.Low-i.hcis. 
 
 A noisy denizen of the marshes a'ong the lower rivei-, not extending into the monntaii; 
 district. Nests in the marshes, and is easily known hy its iieciiliai' liahits. 
 
 559. NunieiiiuB HudsoiilcuB IaiIIi. Mciisoman t'lm.EW. 
 
 ^^ n .■i.hnndant Species on the Upper river. In the fall they resort to the const region in 
 lai'ge flocks previous to migration. 
 
 560. NumeniusboreallB (/•'()^.•^^), /..((//i. Kskimo Cciu.KW. 
 
 This species, together with the red-bellied snipe ami the Hud.soniai: curlew, forms t!ie 
 three most ahuiulaut s])ecios characteristic of the i-egioii. 
 
CRUISE OF THE 8TEAMER t'OKVVIN. 79 
 
 384. Orua fraterculua ( Vi.s.s. Littlk Crane. 
 
 A liitlitT liui' icsiili'iit 1)1" tilt- Noiitak ri'j^ioii. tiiid priiu'ipally aloug tliu lower river. 
 
 588. Olar Amcrioanus (ShriritleHu). Il/i. Wiiisri.isii Sw.vn. 
 
 A siimll tlock (»))SL<rvml neiir tho dultii i)f tlic river in tlm only record obluiiiud. Notahun- 
 diiiil. lint a rcj^iil.'U' sununiT resident.. 
 
 593'(. Aiisei albifroiis gambell I //((»•//.). Cinirs. A.MKUU AN Wihtk-FKdNTKD (ioosE. 
 
 Koiinil .liniii.sl c.sclii.sivt'ly iilnng tim lowci' aiid iiiarsliy si'ctiim.s ul' (lie river, where it is 
 very aluiiiilaiit. 
 
 S94^. Beniiclila caiiadeiisis leuooparla (HrmiiU). i Vi.sk. WiirrK-ciiiCKKKii ( inosK. 
 
 An aliunii.int sinnnicr resiili-nt of the entire region, and nesting; wherevei- found. 
 
 605. Daflli acuta (/,/i/;(.), Uniiiij). I'lNTAn.. 
 
 A moderately alnindant speeies, found along every ixjrtiou of tho river. Ne.sts in every 
 section among the nuirsliy lund.s. 
 
 607. Maieca Americana (^/mc/.), .SYi'/i/i. Hai,i>1'atk. 
 
 Oliserved singly or in pairs everywhere along the river. Saw yonng birds ahont midille 
 of .Inly. 
 612. Nettioii Carolitieusia (r/mi/.). Ilninl. (iUKEN-wiNiiEl) Tkau 
 
 A summer resident of the fresh-water ponds and marshes near the coast. Not an alnui- 
 dant species. 
 
 620. Clangiilaglaucluni Americana (/{/).). Itiilijir. .Amkkica.n (ioi.nKN-icvK. 
 
 A single pail' observed iili t he lower rivei' are the oldy I'epi'csentatives of this species I liMVe 
 ever seen ill Alaska. I'ossilily they may have been only stragglers, and are e.\t reniely rare. 
 
 628. Somateria V. nigra (Irnji. I'acikic Kii>i;u. 
 
 A siiif^li' specimen iif the male bird .seen about three hnmlred miles above the mouth of 
 the river is the only record obtained. I'robalily a straggler only. 1 was not aware that tiiey 
 evi'i' left I he sea-coast. 
 
 637. Mergiis serrator hiiiii. Rki>-iikeastk|) Shkldkakk. 
 
 A moderately abundant species, foil mi along the entire river. Ni'sts aliout the lirst of .In lie. 
 
 660 Larus glaiiciiB /</■' (il.Al'iois (ill.l,. 
 
 ( )bser\i'<l thnuulioiit the river region in varying abiiii(hinee: principally. JKjwever, along 
 the lower portion. 
 
 663. Lanis glaucescena Lirlil. (li,Arcois-wiN<a:i)(ii i,i.. 
 
 In the .same localities, but rather more abuiidanl than the prececiing species. Nests along 
 the river eai'ly in .July. 
 
 675. Lania philadelpilice (On^(. ilrtiji. I?onaiv\i<TK's Oci.i,. 
 
 Noted on .several occasions near the month of the Noiltak; not abundant, but undonbtedly 
 a regular migrant to tliis section. 
 
 687. Sterna macrura .Vinni. Aitcni' Teun. 
 
 \ Very abninlant species .-iloiig the river. .-iikI nesting wherever found. 
 
 698. StercorariuBCrepidatua (//iniA'.v. ). X'iiilt. Ill' ' vudson's .I.KOEIt. 
 
 Not abundant in any section, Iml undoubtedly a inigranl to !lie far north. 
 
 639 Stercorariua parasiticua l/.,i«ni.). Siiiiiiilerx. 1,ono-taile1) Ji«(iEK. 
 
 Observed singly or in pairs everywhere along the river. A regular resident, but not an 
 
 aiiMiidant species. 
 
80 CRUISE OF THE STKAMEU COKWIN. 
 
 737. Colymbus Adamsi (I'lYi//. (iukat Wiiitk-bii.lii:!) LooN. 
 
 Sovi'iiil s|*r(iiiiciis of tliis hi'iiiitirul divur wen? noti-d on tlii' Iowlt river, whero they are 
 ro^ulur siinnnor rosidoiits; not iilniiidivnt. 
 
 738. Colymbus arcticus Linn. 1!i,a('K-tiiii(>atki> Divek. 
 
 A inodtM'iilcly iilumdiinl spciMcs, coiifmcd toilic iiiiirslics itiid lakes lyiiijj; oil' tlic niiiiii river 
 
 SAMUKL R McLKNKXIAN. II. S. K. M.. 
 
 Hecond vl.sAt'i/tni/ KiKjiiivfr, I'. S. S. Coririu, 
 
isr O T E s 
 
 ON THB 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY AND ETHNOLOGY 
 
 ov 
 
 NORTHERN ALASKA. 
 
 BT 
 
 CHARLES H. TOWNSEND. 
 
 H. Ex. 153—11 81 
 
INTRODUCTORY I.KTTER. 
 
 I wfis taken on Ijoanl thn Unit('<l States Nti-aiiicr Cnririii at St. Paul's Island, Bering Sea, 
 on June 'il, Ihf!"), and lwelv(^ days later (on July >') was landed at Kot/cliue Sound witli a party 
 ill ciiarKe of Lieut. J. C. Cautwell, to explore the Kowak River, whieli is iniinediately nortli 
 ol' and almost j)ai'allel with the A i'eti<' circle in Northern Alaska. 
 
 1 iuul been at St. Paul's nearly three weeks, having heen sent to .Alaska hy the United 
 Stivte.s Commissioner of Fisiieries to gather certain data re.spectinj? seals, cetaeeans, the fish- 
 eries, (fee, whicli I I'esei've for puhlication elsewhere. I had arrived there \>y the Alaska, Coin- 
 luereial Company's steamer .S7. I'did. 'I'he oppoiM unity >>( accompiiM\ inu; t he ( 'onriii. all'or(led 
 tliroUfj;h the courtesy of Captain Healy, was one which 1 K^'dly a\ idled luyselt of. as it enabled 
 me to visit a remote ami usually inaccessible region. 
 
 The ('(inriii called at St. Michael's, (lolovin Bay, Port Clari'iice. ;iii<l Cape Prim f Wales 
 
 on her way to the Arcti(s and laboriously pushed her w.iy Tor many hours tlirouKli <lrift-ice to 
 I'lltel' Kotzebue SoUIi'l. 
 
 Our party, consistinfi of liii'uteiiant Caiitweil. William M.irsh. and Krederic l^ewis, sea- 
 men from the Ciiririii, myself, anil Myninck, the interpreti'r, remained on the Kowiik Hiver 
 nearly two months — from July 'I until AuH;ust •l'\ — diirin;^ which linu' I olilained as nuiny 
 zoidoj^ical s|)ecinnuis as our limited facilities and peculiar sui'roundinffs permitted. The object 
 of the trip— tin* exploration and discovery of tiie snuree of the river —was aceumplislied. 
 
 lteturiiin<^ soutiiward in the fall, in addition to callin;^ anain at those places visited on the 
 northward trip, the vessel nuulo stops at SchisnuirelV luli'l, in the .Xi'dic ()cean. and at Hall's 
 Islaml, in Bering Sea, at all of whi(di natural history specimens werc> obtained in ^jreiitei' or 
 less numbers. 
 
 The (U)nrin lanihvl moat St. Paul's Island on Septi'uilier io, where 1 remaiue(l a month 
 before taking the homeward-bound vessel of the Alaska Coiumercial Company. A delay of 
 nearly two wei^ks at ( )unalaska was pi'oductivtMif niucii interesting ornillidhigical material. 
 The steamer Dora arrived at Saii Francisco on Nt.vemlier s. 
 
 1 must express my indebte<lness to the Alaska Commerci.il Company of San Francisco, 
 and to Capt. M. .\. Healy, United States Revenue .Marine, for the faciiitii's I enjoyed in my 
 Work in Alaska. I received courteous treatment at the iuinds of the otlicers and agents of tiie 
 (■o!u|>any, as well as the otlicers of the Cnnriu. Lieutenant Cantwell was ahva>s ready to aid 
 in' while on the Kowak Rivi'r. .Mr. Kidgway. of the Smith.soiiian institnliou, kindly gave 
 me the beautiful jilate reiiresentiiig I'/crl nipliriia.r lii/i)nhiircii.s. Mr. L. .M. 'i'lirner revise d 
 my spelling of Kskinio bii-d luiiues according to tin' rides Laid down in Professor Powell's 
 (luide to the Study of Indian Languages; .iiid Dr. ( ieoi-ot. Vnsey. botanist at the Department 
 of .\griculture. identilieil the few plants that 1 was .ible to collei-i. 
 
 A colh^'tion of llowering plants obtjiined on the Xoiitak River ii\- .Mr. Mci.,enegaii. and on 
 the Kowak by Mr. Cantwell and myself, has been mislaid or lost, as it in'ver reached Wash- 
 ington. Mr. McLenegan kindly gave me some notes on birds collected by him on the Lower 
 iCowak in ISSl, but I have not u.simI them, having decided to let the |iresent i)aper stand as a 
 record of personal observations and cidlectioiis. 
 
 ClIARLFS H. TOWNSENl), 
 A.ssistaut, I'liiti'd Shilcs Fi.sli CoiniHifiNion. 
 
 Smithsonian Institution, June 25, bsisi;. 
 
 83 
 
NATURAL HISTORY AND ETHNOLOGY OF NORTHERN ALASKA. 
 
 THE KOWAK RIVER REGION. 
 
 It is liK'^xl Airtif day's journey ii» a steam-launch up Hothain Inlet to the Kowak mouth, 
 for tiiere is scarcely more than an hour's darkness at the beginning of July, and as the waves 
 run pretty high when the wind Mows, the heavily loaded launcii hugs the windward shore for 
 safety. Plenty of water birds are met with along here. Surf ducks, loons, white-fronted and 
 white-( heeked geese kee]) swinuning out of the way of the boats, and a few Triiu/ce run along 
 siiore or keei> just aheful l»y shoi't flights. 
 
 This west shore consi.sts of narrow beach, behind which ri.ses an irregular line of low 
 l>luffs that shut off the view of the treeless tundi'a peninsula sejmrating the inlet fnmi Kotze- 
 i)ne Sound. An occasional raven's croak calls attention to his black form perched u])on a bank, 
 and the osprey or some other hawk fre<(uently announces its presence by some falconine call 
 as it pa.sHeH. The buslies dinging to the bluffs harbor a few white-crown and savanna .fpar- 
 rows, and some jitarmigan, in inottled summer plumage, may be flushed from among the 
 whortleb,)rry bushes ( racc/«/M/«) growing amid the sjihagnum of the tundi'a. A few mice 
 (Arvit'ol(i) are found in the drier situations. 
 
 In the delta of the river a stray kingfisher or an anxicms goose, hurrying her brood of half- 
 grown young under (he overhanging willow verdurt* of the banks for concealment, are about 
 the only signs of life, for the channels are narrow and the view is shut off completely. Polar 
 hares are met with along lnu-e. Farther up the scattered spruces (Ahie.s) ctmw in .sight to vary 
 the monotony, or a widening out of "the river's wooded reaches" affords a glimpse of some 
 (li.stant rocky-topiH'd elevation which, by reason of the meanderings of the stream through 
 the lowlands, shows alternately to jutrt and starV)oaril. 
 
 Above the many-channeled delta the Kowak a.ssumes a different character. High banks 
 of old ice and clay appear, bearing a thin coat of surface soil, which supports the stunted 
 Arcti(! growth of white spruce. The banks, undermined by the melting of their a:)cient icy 
 suli.stratum, often slide in massive sections into the river, carrying a wide niargin of forest 
 with them. In many ])laces navigation is impeded by earth-aiu^hored sjiruce snags. Sonu>- 
 tiiues cavernous holes are excavated as the gritty ice disappears, and the overarching mass of 
 earth hangs ready to fall when a few more hours exposure to the incessant Arctic sunshine 
 shall have set it free. These banks are too icy to be tvuineled by kingfishers or bank swal- 
 lows, con.seiiuentiy svich birds are scarce along tht« lower river. 
 
 There are many extensive .santl-liars in the Kowak at)ove the delta, where cranes, a few gulls 
 and terns, and some l(>ast sandpipers and semi-palmated plovers congregate to feed and sun them- 
 selves. Bears ami the smaller fur-bearing animals leave many tracks here, and on the sand- 
 liars furtlii'i" ni) we saw reindeer tracks. An occasional spruce along shore is topped with the 
 bulky nest of the fish-hawk. 
 
 Although spruce forest exists to a greater or less extent in all parts of the Kowak River 
 region, there is no regularity about its disti'ibution; a hundred miles or more above salt water, 
 where the river runs near the hilki, the forest is (juite heavy, but where the course is through 
 level country the river is bordered by mossy tundra jilains, usually treeless. 
 
 Excellent whortleberries grow in all parts of the country, and are eaten greedily by wild 
 geese and cranes as well as all the smaller birds. I suspected the robins and varied thrushes 
 of eating the currants which grew plentifully iu all thickets near the river. Flowers of beau- 
 
 85 
 
Sr^ CRUI8K OF THK STEAMKK CORWIN. 
 
 tiful tints were fmind spriiiKinj^cvcrywhoi'o, HHtlioii^h thoy oxpootoil tlin inidniKlit hiih tosliiuo 
 cm tliom l"(in<vt'r, uml liml lost all niciiiory of iln' snow and durkncss ol' llit uortlicrn wiiitfr, 
 Some of tho coniinontst plants and tlowurs uf thu Kuwak in July and Aiigust are: 
 
 Ac(tiiifiii)' Xiificlhi.s, \j. Mnosoti.s niflntticii, Holl". 
 
 NuNtiirfiinii jxilKslrc, 1), C, Allimii S<li(i'iit)i)riiniiiii, L. 
 
 Pofciiniii Sitclifiisc. H. W. Junrnn stimhiH, L. 
 
 Sn.vifr(tf/(i Ilimtlii.s, L. Varcv Mvrtiu»ii, Priw. 
 
 Sit.vifnKjd h'licinithciiiifolia var. Bru- Aypi>li\iiii fraiintUH, Swartz, 
 
 iioiiiiiiKi, T. <!t (J. llfiliisiiniiii hotcdic, Nntt. 
 
 Epilohiuiii fif)ir(ititiii. Lam. Ifuhiin (trcficn.t, L. 
 
 Gnliii>ii horcdfc. L. Achilli-a Millcfolimu, L. 
 
 But Honu' that were in bloom wlit'ii we first entered the river were rejjluced by others Inter 
 ii! the season. 
 
 The Northwestern Kskinio, or Innuits, althouKh chiefly a coaift peojile, live also on tin- 
 rivers of the rejj^ion. On tlie Kowuk their ciituijs and habitation.> are scattered irregularly 
 along flu? low(>r two-thirds of its coiirsc, hut in summer huntin^if parties range up *o its vei-y 
 headwaters. The jiursuit of the reindeer Hometimea leads huntttrs far inland; in fact, the 
 majority of the ubler-bodied men :ip|M'ar to s|>('nd the short summer in the ]>ursuil of game in 
 the interior, while the youtiis. children, and old men I'emaiuon the lower river with the womi-n. 
 whose duty it is to gather in the ichthyological harvest atl'ordeil by the annual salmon run. 
 They often mak(> temporary camps well up stream, where thei'e are suital>li> seining grounds, 
 hut their earth-covered winter houses are usually at no great distance from the sea. Winter 
 houses or •"iglus" are eonstructe(l of s])rnce sai)lings set upright in the grouiul close together, 
 in the forui of a sipiare. four posts sui)porting the arched I'oof. which is also of light sajdings. 
 A hole in the top serves for chimney and ventilator. The entire structui'e is covered with 
 earth, and .vlien dcsci-teil foi- a year or two, and overgrown with grass and mosses, looks like a 
 mound, i.lentitieil as having been a human habitation only l)y sonu' tumble-down (ish-racks 
 on the •■iver bank near by. or the withered form of a raven stm^k upon a pole. 
 
 There is an iibundant su])]ily of food-lishes in the Kowak region, sidmon. trout, grayling, 
 pike, and whitcfish being the conimonest species. The natives take them in seines, which are 
 made by the women from tibers of roots gathered along the river banks wherever they are 
 exposed by the breaking away of the eartii. These seines, which iire usually not moi'e than a 
 yard in width an<l vary in length from thirty to (ifty feet, are sti'ong and durable, but would 
 not hold a very heavy haul of salmon. They are fitted with wootlen Hoats. the sinkers being 
 made of reindeei- horn. In seining, which is always done in shallow wati'r, one end is carried 
 along shore by t lie children, the s([uaws towing the other end down stream in a large bii'ch 
 canoe or a seal-skin boat, kee])ing it out as far as the length of the seine permits. Large num- 
 bers of salmon are taken in this way. and after being split ojM'n. are dried ui)on i)oles in the 
 sunshine, a food snjjply again.st that timt* when "Mighty Pelxiau. the Winter." slnill seal n|) 
 the friendly river, drive oft' the wild fowl, and cover over '"all the Northland" with his mantles 
 of snow and darkness. 
 
 I expecteil to find the snowy owl and the hawk-owl on the Kowak, hut saw nothing of 
 them, although I kej)' a bright lookout. 
 
 There are several other si)ecies rather widely distributed northward, such as the ouzel. 
 d(jwny woodpecker, flicker, pine grosbeak, crossbill, &c., that might be expected as .stragglere, 
 but wens not nu't with. 
 
 Then! are high ranges of hills between this region and the Yukon over which migrating 
 birds doubtless have t( > oass. As the following jjages show, some of the commonest birds of the 
 United States breed re<> ai/irly ir this remote and d»>solate region. It is comforting to find robins, 
 whitecrown s|)arrows. \y ik-s :!ows. kingfishers, and othei' well-known and dearly loved home 
 birds following one's meanderings even beyond the Arctic Circle. It inspires thoughts of lutnie 
 and creates a warmth at the heart. 
 
 Zoological colic \ig is not easy woi'k in a countr;, such as that drained by the Kowak 
 River. We traveled iu ■■ mall steam-launch, heav ly loaded, with a boat full of natives and 
 
SALMON BERRY 
 
 COHWIN 1805 
 
QHV IH K « I K r I r K ST K A M K |{ CO K \V I N . . 87 
 
 Hit|i|iIt«M ill t<nv, HO tlmt vi'ry fXtfriMivo (•(illcctioiiH cmilil not Iw )iiu>H|M)it»'(I. Tlmn* wiim miK-h 
 riiitiy wctithiT. iMiikiiiK it ditfli'iilt to collect ivs wi>ll uh to dry l>ii'il-Hkii>M, liixl tli« mo.s(|uito 
 |ila)^uc witM iilwitys ii si'I'Ioiih ilniwhiirk in I'liir witiillitT imlt'ss tli<'rt< whh li lir<>«'/,t> lilowiiiK to 
 icsKcn tlic t'orco of tin' ntlin-k. \Vi> w(»lconn«{| tlin uccaMidiiiil cliilly diiyM lliiil niivi- im i'('H|iil(< 
 from nioH<|iiito piTHt'ciition. OtluTwintt wo wen' coiuiH'lltMl to svcur li routing of tar liixl car- 
 ))oli/.fil oil on our fivi-<<H iiixl liiiiids for dayn lof(rl)it>i-, until tlic ft'vorixh imd .sniiirtin^ nkin 
 di'iniindiMl its rt'itioviil. Daily ulilutionN nndi'r mucIi circiinistancKH could not of ronrtw Ihi 
 
 ind\ilKi'<i ill. 
 
 i'rolon^t'd rainlili'H hack from tli« river arc inipraciicaltlf, nii act'otiiii of IIk' <'xllallstin^ 
 lalior of h'anipinK IIirouK'' tli'' Imtnniocks and inosn of the tundra, or frozen inoras.s. The 
 NpliaKninn tundra ^r'owth is onini)n'esenl, extending even up ou tlie mountaiuH, and forniH a 
 heavy coveririK for tlie if»» wliieli in t<v«'rywiuire iMMieath it. MoMs-coveted liuniinoekH Htand .so 
 clo.se iiK to pnsent a false level a "s|ion>{y tlusli," as .lolin Mnii- describes it throu><li which 
 one is constantly lireakinn. fre(|ueiitly sinking thiKh deep in the icy water underneath, of 
 winch the (lower-dotted surface ^^ives no indication. 
 
 in addition to these "slij^ht drawhacks" in the way of natural history collecting in .Maska_ 
 one (inds thai fragile specimens have a perverse way of j^ettin^ trodden upon in the lioats, and 
 the Hacchanalian native exhiliits lietimcs an untoward ilesire |o use the alcohol in the lish-tank 
 as a lu'veraKc, from which he must needs he i'estraine<l, lest the ichthyo|o>;ical specinieMH ho 
 glinted, to their detrinn>nt. Indeed, at St. Piuil's IhIiukI, oin* iiiKht 'in Heptemher, u couple of 
 Aleuts liroke into the building wher<- my alcohol was kepi, for the purpose of stealing some 
 and accidentally set tire to it. in their ell'orts to put out the lire their liands were frijrhtfnlly 
 burneil. Tliis loss conipelle<l me to put my HpecimeiiN on sliort allowance, and to collect with 
 iliscriniination diirin^^ the rest of the .season. 
 
 It is, however, ((uiti' unnecessary for me to write furthei' of the general fealui'(>sof thw 
 Kowak country, as Lioutoiiunt Ciintwell discusses the .sul)ject very fully in liis narrative of 
 the voyugo. 
 
 MAMMALS. 
 
 Ranglfer taraiic. >■ grcenlandlou* {Krrr). Ukindkkk. 
 
 Iteindeer skin appears to he the principal material used for clothin^f by the natives of the 
 Kowak Hivcr r'ej^ion. Init judKin^ from the numher of "pieliald" j^arments we .saw. the stock 
 is derived chietly from the domesticated variety, which is hertled in ^rcat numherson the Asiatic 
 side of Bering Straits, and i>htaine<i by means of exchanges carricfl on in summer. The wild 
 Alaskan variety of a reindeer is pi'obahly not very numerous in the Kowak rej^ion, aJtlmuKh 
 Ml', (.'aniwell saw a few small henls aninux the hills at the headwaters of the river, to which 
 they uiiKi'ate in summer. It iu not impro))a)>le that they .seek the luKher lands to esca]>e the 
 m(is(iuito plujiiu' that nuikes life misitrable for lieast as well as man in the tumlra sections. 
 W(( saw u fi'W fresh (racks in the sand of the lower river in .July. On August I, I saw a rein- 
 deer with liorrs still in the velvet. I was hunting with a li^li^ shot->(vin anions some hills 
 several miles from the river anri pau.sed for a rest, when a reiud<'er apjiroached through tlu) 
 den.se mist and ins[)ecttMl meat a distance of less than forty yards. I renuiitu>(l perfectly (juiet, 
 sittin^^amon^the low bushes, while the excited animal played all around me. He would become 
 frif;htemMl at times and dash away to a sli>i;ht eminence near by. from which he snorted at me 
 in great alarm; but overcome by curiosity, \w approached repeate<||y for a nearer viev. 
 
 At the end of half an hour, when tlu' mist lia<l turned to rain, 1 left him, still watching' me 
 frtini u .safe distance, and went away ami meditating oji the perversity with which game 
 appears when one has tlie wrong kind of ai'ins or none at all. 
 
 This deer was not lai-ge. in fact not nearly as large as I expected to find an adult reindeer 
 with fully developed antlers. The hides which we saw in possession of the people did not 
 apparently indicat(> as large an animal iw the Culifornian ('<tn'<icHs coluiiihidiiiifi, so tliat it is 
 probable that the small burrou-grouud reiatleor, or caribou, is the only variety found in North 
 
88 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 
 
 Alaska. Tlio larpor woodland carilxni is donhtless thn prevailing variety to tli<» southward. 
 Reindeer are found more or less regularly throuj^iiout Alasiva. Tliey were found ))y Mr. 
 MfLenefj;an on the Noiltak, as well as by our party on the Kowak. Traders in the service of 
 the Alaska Conunereial Company toM me of their common distrrbutioTi over tlui Yukon. Kus- 
 kokvim, and Aleutian divisions of the country. They have even been shot on ( )unimak Island, 
 at the end of the peninsula. But reindeer are restless animals, irrej^ular in their migrations 
 and habits. Sometimes they (h'sert wiiohi .sectiims of country for montlis together, ami tliey 
 appear to have withdrawn from many regions where firo-arms have been introduced. 
 
 Notwitlistunding th(» fact that lai'ge herds of reindeer are kept in a state of tiomestication 
 by the Cliukchees. at East Cape, and other well-known jjlaces on the Asiatic side of Bering 
 Straits, with whom the natives of the Alaskan side comnuinicate regularly, there ajjpej'rs to 
 be no domestication of the species whu'.ever in Alaska, nor. indeed, in any part of J^orth 
 America. 
 
 In time, when the general use of fire-arms by the natives of Upper Alaska shall have reduced 
 the numbers of this wary animal, the introduction of th(» tame variety, which is a substantial 
 sujiport to the people just across the Straits, among oui' own thriftless, ah'ohol-bewitched 
 Eskimos, would bo a philanthropic movement, contributing more towai'd tlieii' anudioration 
 than any system of schools or kindred charities. The native boats coidd never accom])lish the 
 importation, which would, however, present no difiiculty to oi'diuai'y .sea-going ves,sels. The 
 taming of the American reindeer is imi>racticable. for domestication, vith this animal at lea.st. 
 is the result of subjection thi'ough many generations. Something tending to render a wild j)eo- 
 ple pastoral or agricultural ought to be the tirst ste]) toward tlieir advancement. In our man- 
 agement of these j)eoi>le. piirclid.si'd from the RuNsians. we have an opportunity to atone, in a 
 measure, for a century of dishonorable treatment of the Indian. 
 
 Ovis oanadenais (Shaw). ISidiioitN. 
 
 I saw a skin of the mountain .sheep in the possession of a native on the lowei' river, ami saw 
 several spoons made from its horns. The natives told us of its existence in ,he high hills inland. 
 
 SciuruB hudaoaius {Pallnn). Rkd S((ciiti{Ri. (Cii-ka-ld-tai-dk) 
 
 We found iv<l s(iuirrels not uncommon in the sitruce forests of the Ui)i)er Kowak. They 
 were comparatively familiar, and sometimes chatted noisily in the trees abcjut our camps. 
 
 Five specimens; Upper Kowak, July -iti-'M). 
 
 Caator fiber Limie. Bkavkk. 
 
 Beaver skins were not plentifid among the natives, but we saw ])elts occasi(jnally that had 
 doubtless been taken in that region, as many of them were from young animals. 
 
 Fiber zibethicua {FAniK^). Mcskhats. 
 
 I saw two live muskrats swimming in the river, just about the didta. on August v'".'. and fired 
 at them, but without effect. I was impressed with the fa<'t of their small size, although they 
 appeared to be adults. The same is true of the pelts we saw in the possession of the natives. 
 and of which they make garments and blankets. 
 
 Myodesobenaia Brants. Lemmino. 
 
 A single specimen of the common lemming was obtained on the river. 
 
 Arvioola rlpariua (Ot'ff.). 
 
 We obtained specimens of this mouse in certain deserted winter house.s of the natives 
 along the lower river, and in a mossy bank near our camp at Kotzebue Sound. 
 
 Erethizon doraatua epixanthua (Brandt). Wk.stbks I'oitcuriNK. 
 
 Mr. Cantwell obtained three or four young j)orcupines near the source of the river in July, 
 which were roasted and eaten by the natives accompanying him. The species was not met 
 with elsewhere. 
 
 Que specimen (young); headwaters of Kowak. July. 
 
CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 89 
 
 Lepus timidus Liiini'. Polar IIaiei:. 
 
 ( )u July 4 I saw a solitary liarc in tlu- Kowak delta, tlic only ono soon during our oxplora- 
 tioiis. I do not ronioniljor luivin;j; soon any skins in tlio villagos along the river, ulthougli thoy 
 wore soniftiinos soon in tho possession of the coast people. 
 
 Sorex N|i. 
 
 I saw a diininutivo slirow on August -i'i, not far above tlio delta of tho river. It was tlie 
 only ono observed in tlie country. 
 
 Phooa vituliua f.iiiin'. IIaimiok Skai.. 
 
 Tlio liiirbor seal, which is abundant all along tho novthoru coasts, and wlii(di is constantly 
 huntod l)y llio ])eoi>l(> t'or food and clothing, often wanders far up tho Kowak River. 
 
 ITraus ricbardsoni ./icf. and liae'i. UAHui;s-iiui>iNi> Hi'.ar. 
 
 Thi" brown and yellowish boai' skins in tlio possession of the natives slionhl pi'obably all 
 be roforrod to this variety. M'ar traeks were often found in the sand-bar.s along the river; 
 none of them appeared to indicate animals of very groat size. 
 
 Oulo luscus {t.inni'). Woi.vkkink. 
 
 I only saw two or thi'oo skins of this animal. Thoy ai'o frociuontly worn by tho natives, 
 l)iit (lie luajoi'ity of them are olttainod. I tliink, foi- other localities. 
 
 Putorlus vison (.Sf/ircfcc)). Mink. 
 
 saw a mink on the upper river August l. Pelts were to be found in all tho villages. 
 
 PutoriuB erminea {LiniU'). Ekmink. 
 
 Skins of this animal were very conimon among the natives, and the iul'ereuce is that they 
 were taken on tho. river, as tho species is abundant in Northern Alaska. 
 
 Vulpes fulvus (ZJi.fHi.). Kki) Kdx. 
 
 Skins of this and tho next species were often seen. 
 
 Vulpea lagopus (tiHH('). AitcTic Fox. 
 
 Elephas. 
 
 Tusks, tooth, and bones of tho mammoth were soon in many of tho villages on the Kowak 
 River, 'fho natives frociuoutly carve ornanu'uts and u.seful ai'ticlos out of mammoth tusks, and 
 1 saw .some very large soup-hidles made out of this fossil ivory. At Capo Prince of Wales. 
 wJiere the ('orivin anclujrod for a .short time on her way north, sevi-ral tusks and large bones of 
 tho mammoth woi'o brought aboard for barter. When (pu'stionod as to their ideas respecting 
 this groat extinct elephant, the natives told us that it was a very large roindoor. anil poiuti'd 
 out to ns. from the size of the bones lying on the deck, how lai'ge it must have I)eon, I brought 
 out a copy of Le Conto's (loology, whiidi wo had on board, and showed tliom a ])icture of tho 
 skeleton of a mammoth, wlucli thoy recognized at once, and delightedly pointed out tho bones 
 I'osemMing those lying vipon tho dock. When I produced a picturi' of the same animal restored, 
 in which it greatly I'osemblos tho elephant, their enthusiasm reached a high |)itch. 
 
 'I'lie matter was a])i)arontly perfectly clear to their minds, and thoy listened with attention 
 while the surgeon and I explaineil, through tho interpreter, what we knew abimt the mammoth. 
 Bt>foro tho book was ])ut away one of them borrowed a pencil and jiioco of paper to coj)y the 
 outlines of the pictui'o. and I am I)ound to say that his skofcli was very creditable, considering 
 tho ci'ude ideas of art ai long such i)eo])le. 
 
 On August 2S, at Schismaroff Inlet. I found tho front half of the skull of a mammoth 
 lying on the oi)en tundra, which was not fossilized in the least, being simply <'i mos of dry 
 bono, firm and light. This is rather roinai'kabl(>, considering tho long extinction of the mam- 
 moth and the geological and climatic change;, which have since taken place in North America. 
 H. Ex. 153 la 
 
90 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER COR WIN. 
 
 BIRDS.* 
 
 1. Urinator imber ( Oitun. ). Loon ( Kh<i-(i-<lnik). 
 
 Ijiiuiis wiTc srcn aliiiiist daily liy oiii' party wliilc on the Kowak River. As no spi'ciincn.s 
 of tlic (lark-iiccki'd kinds wcv olitaiiicd, I am nol certain that I', urrlicii.s tinil /xiciliciis wviv 
 not n'|>f('S( 'ili'il tlit'i'c as wi'll as Inilicr. 
 
 2. Urinator adamsii ('''nil/). Vk.i.i.ow nil i.kh I.ikin, 
 
 Ainoiio- 111,. I,,,, IIS wliicli llrw noisily over oiir hoals from tiiin' ti; lime 1 occasionally I'ccog- 
 ni/.cd t his spt'cics. 
 
 3. Urinator luniine ( (.HHW.) K'KD-riiiioATKn \AMf\ {Kali ll-ih■llk^. 
 
 1 oiitaiiicd a spcci n of this liird on the ii|i|mt livcr on Aiin-iist 1(1. AltlioiiKli 1 saw 
 
 neither nests n,ir yoiip.,- l.irds. tl .instant presenc i the river of t his aad the two preceding 
 
 species Would seem to indicate tlleil' hreedillt;- there. 
 
 4. Larusglancns Hri'iiiii. (ii,.\rer- (iii.r.. 
 
 (Jl.incns Kiills were rreipeiitly seen during oiir voya.<i:e. especially ahmi;' the lower river, 
 where we oliserved tlieni .sonielinies rest inn- n|ion the swayini-- tops of the s|iruee tree.s. a very 
 unusual thiiiic for tjnlis to do. 
 
 'I'wo specimens (skeletons): Lower Kowak. .\ui;-ust ^'5. 
 
 5. Larus glancescens Xninii. (ii.Ai irs-wiN(a:i) ( iii.i,. 
 
 'I'he presence of this species was noted almost daily until we readied a distance of about 
 three hiinilred mill's from the sea. wlu'ii it liecame rather scarce. 
 
 6. Larns Philadelphia {(lr<h. Honai'aktk's ( iil.l. iA-kliiii-di-iiiuj-iiCik). 
 
 I ol.tained siiecimeiis of this liird on (he middle and lower river in July. It was nut 
 
 often seen. 
 
 Two specimens: Lower and Middle Kowak. .Inly l-lo. 
 
 7. Sterna pa radisaea llriiini. \luTU- Tf.hs {M'l-hi-ldi-h'ik). 
 
 Tiie Arc(ic tern is a common liird ;ill alon.n' the river. 
 Two specimens; l.owei' Kowak. ,J uly 4 .Vu^usf is. 
 
 8. Merganser serrator il.iiiii.). Kkd-hukastkh .Mkhuavsku {fiii-rn-iiH-riik). 
 
 A moderately comnion summer resident. Younj-- liirds in the ilown were shot August 10. 
 Three specimens; Ijower Kowak. August Is. 
 
 9. Anas amerioana amcl HAl.n-PATK {V-(jivv-hfink). 
 
 Common in the lagoons along tleniiddle and lower river. We .shot many full-grown 
 young liirds late in August. 
 
 10. Anas caroliuensis diiirliii. (iui.KN-WTN(iK.i) Thai,. 
 
 The green-winged teal was freipieutly mi't with during oui' voyage. The young are well 
 gi'own by the middle of August. 
 
 One siiecimen; Lower Kowak. .August. 
 
 11. Dafila acuta (/.//( 11. ). I'intau.. 
 
 More abundant than either of the two preceding sjiecies. esiiccially at the delta of the 
 rivei' and ;ibout Hot ham Inlet, where we shot numbers of them late in the .season. 
 
 12. Oidemia amerioana Sir. <l'- Rirh. .Vmkimian Scotku (Mi-fi-<iii-i'ii'-riik). 
 
 'I'his species was not uncommon along the lower river. 
 
 * Nomtuuluturi; of the Ami'ricun Oiiiitlinlogisl.s' Union. 
 
CKIISK (»K THK STKaMKIM'oRWIN. 9I 
 
 13. Anser alblfrons gambelM "'"'"•■ Amkhii an WhitivI'kiinthii (iciosK i^Ti-ij'i-iik). 
 
 This ^DDsc is a smuiiU'V n'siilfiil of I lie rnliic Kownk liivcr retail ni, mid pvobalily i\w must 
 iilnuiilaiil of 111 1 the AiiKi'riiKV ln'i-cdint,' tliciT. W'c rniniil il i'\crv\vliri'c oNcr tlui tiiiitlrii liuids, 
 I'c'diiiy; nil till' l)lui'l)('rri('s. Mr. ( 'iiiitwcll l)niiii;lil iiii' a s|icciiii('ii I'lnin llic lakr at tlic soiirci' 
 III' tlif river, wlici'i' it was very ahiiiidaiil. 
 
 14. Brauta canadensis hutchinsii i.s'/c. ((• Itifli.). Hi n hiss's (Jdosi:. 
 
 Tliis and till' I'ollowiiii;- species Were CDiistaiitly [ireseiit upon the rJNcr. and we IVeiiiieiitly 
 sliot tliom from tiie laiincii ;is we steamed aloiiy;. The lai'K'' lh'dij;liii.!.;s. when stulVi'd with 
 potato and hits of wild onion, which we ir,-ii lieceil aloiij;; shore, fiiniished lis many a .sax'ory roast. 
 
 15. Branta canadensin mtiiima /iir/i/tr. ('AeKl.lNii (iunsK. 
 
 16. Olor columbiaiius \()r<l). Wiiisii.iNU Sw.vn. 
 
 Swans were scarce in tlie region Ihiuii^-h whicii we traveled. Stra^^ling individuals were 
 sometimes seen on the shallow lakes scattered (iver the tundra lands. 
 
 17. Grua canadensis (/.iioi.i. I.ith.k I'iciwn Cuani;. 
 
 This small crane, which is disjiersed in moderate niinihers tlir<iiiehoiit the country, is such 
 a dimiiiiitivi' liiril that I hardly ri'i'oiini/.ed il as an Aiiii'rican species. It seemed iiolniore 
 than one-third tlicsi/,e of tlie (,'riis I had liecome familiar with in the Western States. Now 
 known to lie a distinct species, it is straiin'e that it should have lieeii so lon>;' confused with 
 larjj;er hirds. There is prohahly room for doiiht as to its wintering; place lieiiij.; tlie hordei's of 
 Mexico. 
 
 18. Tringa minutilla (1 7((7/. ) I.kast SAxniMi'iat (''" vi/,). 
 
 I procured fi\'e specimens of the least sandpiper on the upper course of the riverJiily 
 •.'( I--.'."). It was not uncommoii later in (he season. 
 
 19. Ereunetes pusillus (I, I mi.). Sk.mii'ai.mati'.h Swnni'i'.ii i l-l'iii-kul). 
 
 A siiinle specimen was si ml on .1 iil>' ".'i*. from a thick of I he preceding; sp 'cies. 
 
 20. Totanus flavipes Ki'iinl.), Nki.i.ow-i.kos i I'li-lii-iil.-hik). 
 
 The yellowde!;-s hreeds s|iariiinly ill marshy lliickets horderini;' the rive)-. It is vei'v noisy 
 wlieit its retreats are invaded. Ilyiiii;- e\cile(lly uver the low spruces or restiny u[>on their tops. 
 One specimen; Lower Knwak, .lidy I. 
 
 2'x. Bartramia longicauda illrrhxl.). Hahtiiamian SANiii'irrii {l''-li-niii). 
 Only seen on two or three occasions. 
 One specimen; L'liper Kow.ik. ,)iily I.'). 
 
 22. Actitia macularia U.iiui.). .simttki) .'Sanpi'ipku ( l-f(i-hiK--ci'i ri-i-dii-rok or A-imi-tlli-yuk). 
 
 Kaic. ( )iii' specimen; I'pper Kowak. July 'M. 
 
 23. Numeniua tahitiensls ((i'iik/.). l?uisTl.i'.-Tm<iUi'.ii I'lui.r.w (Y')(-r(;-/i(-i(i/,). 
 
 I shot a s|iecimeii of A', lull it ii'iisl.s ;tl l\ot/,el)iie Sound. Auj^ust 'v'Ci. ISS."), havinsif fluslipd 
 it from anioiit,' the hliieherry hushes where il was feediiii,'. The occurrence of this inhahitant 
 of the South Pacilic Islands is thus recordeil for the third time iiiXorthAinerica.it having 
 heeii taken at Fort Kenai. Alaska. l>y Mr. HischolV. May It;, ISH'.t, mid at St. Michacrs. Alaska, 
 hy i[r. Nelson. May -.'1. issn. From the fact of this heiiitj; a youiii;' bird taken in tlie antiimn. 
 it is prohahle that the species sometimes hreeds in Alaska. It is not recorded as occurring on 
 the Asiatic side. 
 
 24. .SJgialitis semipalmata /?o»/.. Skmip.m.matkd V\.i>\-v.\\{)<ii-riik-H-rHk). 
 
 Not unconiiiioii iiliout the saml-hai's of the river. 
 Two specimens; Uppor Kowak. July S--.>i. 
 
92 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CURWIN. 
 
 25. Areiiaria melanooephala ( l'i(/.). Black '''urnstone (Tn-niiit-ti-liih). 
 
 Si'cii (iiriisioimlly about the inontli of the river and Hotham Inlet. 
 
 ( ►lie specimen; Kowak delta, July 4. 
 25. Dendragapus canadensis (/-/»)/.). Canad.v Okoi'sf, U^'ii-fd-ti-nn'i-i-iif). 
 
 A .siMi^le siK'cinirn of Ihi.s .■^lu'cies, a female accom|ianie(i hy Hed^lings, was obtained in the 
 spruce Woodson tlie middle Kowak July 11. No others were seen. 
 
 27. Lagopiis lagopuB (/,//(«.). Wll.l.ow Ptakmkian {A-kii-di-tii-iriU). 
 
 We found a f>'W flocks of this bird alon^ the lower river and ai)ont Kotzebue Hound in 
 Aujuiist. only one individual having been seen higher up. They were always met with on the 
 "]ien tundra, feeding on the omnipresent blueberries. 
 
 Two sjM'cimens; U|)])er Kowak July 14, ajul Kotzebue Simnd August •■>>>. 
 
 28. Circus luidsonius (f.i/(».). M\R>iii Hawk (I'u-jnk-tuk). 
 
 The marsh hawk is a common species throughout the Kowak River region, whore its 
 l)r('i'diug is indicated by the young birils collected. 
 
 Three s|(eciim.ns; Upper Kowak. .Vugust 10, and Kotzebue Sound. August -.'(i. 
 
 29. Archibuteo ferruglueus (/,/<•///.). Fekruoinoiis Rouoh-i.ko (Khai-lii-nik). 
 
 Large hawks, chiefly, I think, of this species, were often seen along the I'iver. 
 One specimen; I^ower Kowak. Augn.st '..'t?. 
 
 30. Falco columbatius ( /,/////.). I'lUKc )N-IIa WK ( K'i-ili-(iii-in'-lciik). 
 
 Rather comimm everywhere during our stay in the region. Breeds in the wooded districts. 
 Thri'e specimens; Upper Kowak, July |-.'. Angu i lo-is. 
 
 31. Pandion haliaetus carolinensls iOiiirl.). Amekican Ospkk.v (Kn-liik-d-ru-rfik). 
 
 A common species, especially along the lower river, where many lu'.sts were seen upon the 
 tops of the spruces. I took a full-grown ycmng bird from one of these nests, which traveled 
 with us during the remainder of the seas<m. perched ui>ou the bow of the steam-launeh. The 
 ai)i)etite of this bird was always good, which could not be sai.l of its temper', its piscivo?-ous jiro- 
 pensities fully justifying its native name of Ka-luk-a-eu-rfik, which Myninck exi-hiim 1 niciint 
 •• eat um i.lenty feesh." Fortunately, we always had plenty of •' feesh ""' for both the os|irey and 
 Myninck to eat. the latter being .piite as deserving of some such hdithyophagons distinction. 
 23' Asio accipitrinus (/'((/^). .Short-eaked Owl (Si-pul-jiuk-tok). 
 
 Onespecimen; Kotzebue Sound. August tiC. This was the only individual owl of any kind 
 that 1 saw in the region. 
 
 33. Ceryle alcyon (Linn.). Belted KiNOFisnER (Xii-k-i-tcuk-iik- or Tn-i/i'i-nii-uii-lnk). 
 
 The kingfisher was present upon the river during the entire season: in fact, it was as com- 
 mon as one would exj)ect to find it on a river in th ^ United States I found a nest on July t>4, 
 in the usual situation— in a hole tniuieled in a soft hank. 
 
 Four specimens; Upper and Middle Kowak, July -.'.'j-August IS. 
 
 34. Perisoreus canadensis fumifrons liiiUjit: Alaska Jay {Ki-ritk or AMlde-di-i/ok). 
 
 A c.mnnon s])ecies in the spruce woods of the region. I shot nnuiy of them about the vil- 
 lages of the natives, where tliey gathered to feed on the dried fish that the jteople were curing 
 on racks in the open air for winter stores. Salmon eggs, often dried with the fish, were their 
 delight. They canu" noiselessly, like the thieves they were, from apparently nowheiv, and 
 <lropi)ed singly and by turn ii\um the racks, with a niisehievcms flirt of the tail, to suutch the 
 nn)uthful of roe they made off with. 
 
 Twelve specinu'iis; Upper and Middle Kowak, July ll-August 18. 
 
 35. Corvus corax sinuatus ( iVoyl.). A.meuican Raven. 
 
 Rather common along the river. Seen also at Kotzebue Sound, 
 Two specimens (skeletons); Lower Kowak, August v'5. 
 
CRUISE OF THE STEAMER C'ORVVIN. 98 
 
 36. Soolecophaguscarollnu8(.V«//.). Rt'STV BhWKttmu {Tti-li(-tifi-riik). 
 
 I siiw ii(>tliin.i( of this liii'd until liitu in tliu season, when ii few niiy;riints, from tli«^ norili 
 presumably, W(<ro noticed about tiic 1)aul\s of tlus lower river and at Kotzeitue Sound. 
 Two spocimons; Lower Kowak, August •^•^-^5. 
 
 37. Acanthis linaria holbcellii {Ilnhm) IIomkki.i.'h Kkdi'OI.i, (ICa hriH-hra iiiik). 
 
 The I'edpolls ])rol)ably breed near the coast in Northern Alaska, for during a two-niontlis" 
 journey of several hundi'ed miles through a well-diversitieil country I saw less than half a 
 dozen individuals, and thei't* were no evidences that the.se were bi'oeding. 
 
 Two spocinuMis; Upper Kowak. July I. 't. 
 
 38. Calcarius lapponicuB (/.jHH.). Laim.an'd Iainiisimii {ho-jml-nuk). 
 
 I found this species comi)aratively abundant about Kotzubue Souml late in August, but 
 saw nothing of it up the I'iver. 
 
 One specimen; Kotzebue Sounil, August '^(!. 
 
 39. AmmodramiiB sandwichensis alaudinus (/>'»Hn/).). sWkstkhn Havanna Spaiiiiow (<>finl->i\ik.) 
 
 The savanna sparrow is a very abundant bird along the i'iver. 1 did not liud nests, but the 
 number of young birds shot indicate that the species breeds plentifully there. 
 Si.v si)eci!nens; Upper Kowak, July '.iO-Augu.sf lo. 
 
 40. Zonotrichia intermedia Hiilgii: Intku.mkdiatk .Si-akkow {yiiri-wuk hhiriik). 
 
 This is [ii'obably thi' most abundant spari'ow in the Kowak regions. 1 found many young 
 bii'ds. 
 
 Thirtooii specimens; Upjjcr and Midille Kowak. July 7-August is. 
 
 41. Spizella mouticola ocliracea IIiiwhI. Western Tuek SrARiuiw ( Ctik iiin-ruk or rk-i>ik-Kli<ii-iik or Mic-ukliii-iink. j 
 
 Constantly associated with the two preceding species, it was almost as common both iji the 
 number of adults and young. 
 
 Thirteen specimens; U])per and Middle Kowak. July 15-August IS. 
 
 42. Junco hyemalis (AiiiH.). Si,a'1e-c()I,ohei> ^•PAHU()W {Kuiii nn-luk). 
 
 Moderately common in the di'ier sjii-uce forests. 
 Thi'ee specimens; Upper Kowak. July :.'()--^4. 
 
 43. Melospiza linooliii (.-/«(/. ). IjImoi.n's Spauhow (Sitwiiimikri'ik). 
 
 A solitary siH'cimen of Lincoln's sparrow was shot on the Upper Kowak. July ;.'(). 
 
 44. Passerella iliaca (J/«)'i-.). I'o.v SPAiiiiow. 
 
 Like tlie ])receding. this species is represented in my collection by a single sjjecii.N'n, tluf 
 only one seen. It was taken on the upper river on July 1.5. 
 
 45. Chelidon erythrogaster (A'orfrf.). Ha a n Swallow. 
 
 I recognized the barn swallow on .several occasions as it Hew with other swallows over the 
 river. 
 
 46. Clivicola riparia tZ,tiiii.). Bank Swallow. 
 
 Bank swidlows were frp(|uently seen oii the upper river when we first ari'ived there, but 
 later the continued heavy rains I'aised the river to such a height (nearly ten feet) that tiieir 
 tunnels were inundated and the young birds destroyed. For a week or more after this, or dur- 
 ing the tii'.st w(M'k f)f August, largo flocks of swallows went Hying everywhere about the coun- 
 try and then disapi)eared and were seen no nu)re during our stay on the river. 
 
 47. Lanins borealis Vii-ill. Northkrn Shrike. 
 
 The only shrike seen was a young bird I shot at Kotzebue Sound August 2'!. 
 
i)4 CUnsK OK TMK STKAMKU COIIWIN. 
 
 48. Dendioica Eeativa (ri'iiif/.). Vki.i.hw Wauiii.kh. 
 
 Appiiri'iitly not (■dimiinii .'iiiywlwrr in tin' t't'y:ii)ii. A few yoiiiit; liinls wen- seen iilmut tlin 
 iM'Kiiiii'i'K '•' Au^Misl. 
 
 Olio spcciiucn; MiiMlc Kuwak, Au>,nist Id. 
 
 49. Deiidroioa ooronata (/,/»».). MvitTi.K \V.miiii.i;u {Tui-lriri-i-riih). 
 
 My siH'ciiiM'iis of tliis sprcics, wliicli \v;is Idiiinl in iiumIitmIi' immlnTs iiloiij^ llic river, uro 
 liotli yiiimj; liii'ds. 
 
 'I"\vu spfciiiiciis: rppiT ,iim1 .Mi'lilli' Knuak, ,1 iily .'."i Aiii;iisl I."). 
 
 50. Deiidrolca striata (/W/.v/.i Hi.m k rui.i. W Mtm.l.u. 
 
 Like llic pf('cc(lin;f, only niiMlrralcly iiniiniini. V(tiin;; Mn!.^ cullcclcil. 
 Kdiir spi'cinii'Ms; rppir!in<l .Miilillc Kciwnk. July •.'•.' Aiinii.-^t l."(. 
 
 51. Seiiuus noveboracensis {dmrl.). W \iKlt 'I'liui sii (/'A■.^•/i/l-^(/■l//. i. 
 
 Sci'ii (III scMial ocrasiiiii.s in damp (iiii'kcts aionn' liir I'ivrr. Tliifc spcciint'iis; U|)pt'r 
 Kiiwak. July IV .Xii.-iisl S. 
 
 52. Sylvaiiia pusilla i U ih.). Wilson's \V.\niil.Klt (\inl-iriih--tii-i-iil,). 
 
 I'liilialily (•iiiiiinoncr llian any otiirf warlilcr in Hie n'i;i(in. Six spcciincns; rpprraiid 
 Middle Knwak. July S-Auj;ust l."i. 
 
 53. Anthua penailvaiiicus (/,<(///.). ,\>u:uii\s I'li'ir (/-.li/.-cii/,). 
 
 Small bands nf this spreirs ennstiinl ly t're(|uentcd llic liinliiT ami drier liilltup.s. They 
 never ileseeiided Ik I III' danii) luiidi'a liordcrim;' llir riser. 'I'lirer speeimeiis: Midille Knwak, 
 Au.uiist I -IS. 
 
 34. ParuB hndsoiiicuB /''cn-.s/. ill hsiinian i iik k mh'.k. 
 
 I met with the cliirkadee mi niir oerasinn diily.ji single individual lia\iiii;' I n shut oi- 
 
 the iijiper rixcr J iily •.'!. 
 
 55. Phyllopaeiistea bcroalia {llliis.). Ki'.NNicorT's Wn.l.nw W.Mtm.i-.i!. 
 
 I priicurrd a spi'i-iini'ii nf the rare Keiinicott's warliler uii .\ui;'iist I. Il was diseciveri'd 
 in il t liicket I'ai' up <in mie of t he highest hills nf I lir middli' ri vrr. and was sinn'ini,' swrct ly. 
 
 On Auijust .'!() 1 nlitained another specimen at I'ort Chu'ence und"r similar <'ircunislances, 
 whieh was unl'ort unately lost. It is a- Siherian bird, known in Alaska by less than Jiiilf a 
 do/.eli speeimeiis. 
 
 56. Turdus aliciae llninl. ( !ifAV-(Hi:K.Ki:i> Tinasii [Siii-iil-lii-hih oi il.x-lih-tdi-i'il:.) 
 
 ("omnioii amoiii;- tlir t hiekfis of the lower- river. It will he notieed lliat the native who 
 ^•a\e me the name of llcf<-l'ih-l:'n-'V: for tiiis species confounded it with tli" water thrush 
 {SeiiiriiK iiiirchiirdi-rii.sis). which perhaps resemhles it sulliciiMitly to make his mistake 
 cxciisuhle. 
 
 Ki\'e specimens; Lower Kowak. July land Aui;ust |s. 
 
 57. Menila migratoria (/./mil. Amiiucan Koiiis [ Kiui-ii-iiii-nil,: n(\nU : i-iik-nti-lrd-iii-liik, voiihk). 
 
 A eomnioii summer resident. 
 
 Kive s]ieciiiieiis; I'ppi'r Kowak. Jul\ ■.M-".".i. 
 
 58. Hesperocichla uEevia"('.'/yn7. ). Vakikd 'riliusii {T'lii-iiii-.iii-hih i>v ('i-o-t'ik-tii-dvuK-). 
 
 A species whose presence was noted at intervals duriiii;' the entire .season. I I'oiind ii nest 
 (!ontfuninj^ three lianl-sei ej^ffs on .luly I. in the spruce woods of the lower I'iver. 
 Ei^dif specimens: July 4 ami Aug.isl is. 
 
o 
 1^ 
 
 I 
 
 8 
 
 in 
 oo 
 00 
 
 O 
 O 
 
CUUISK OF THK HTKAMEU CDUWIN. 05 
 
 FISIIIOS. 
 
 (;AT(»ST(»MII)yE. 
 Catottomua longlroatri* !/• fii'twr. Nuiitiikun Sickkii. 
 
 On ,|„|y -.'I I nl,lui,M.,| srvcrul lisln's of this sprcirs l.y .Irutf^inw a Mmall sriiu-. wit), Mursl.'s 
 
 ll"l|'. llin.llKll llll nl.l lilKli-wul.T .•liuim.'l. ill Wllich f|„. (isllrs ||,i,| I „ ,.,|| utr l.y |||,. r.,i|i„jr ..f 
 
 liio nvrr Tlu's,. wriv all tin., hnw lisli.'s. ..f ..N,...ll,.nt l!uv..r. .\ltli..i,-l. ,,|,.|,|'iful in tl,is,,|.| 
 
 •; ''■^"'"•'- "'••>• ;y..r.. s,.|,| s |s,.wli,.,v. Til.. n.us„n ..f this muv liuv.. I „ tinil Ih.. n„,|. 
 
 IiImt -H.ts iis,.,| l.y t h.. nativ..s in .•ui..|ii„K suliin.i. wrn, n.,t w..|l .Mhii-trd lu Ihi, lai.lun. ..f lM.tl..,ii 
 tislii's, such iis suckers. 
 
 Two s|H.cinii.|is; i:|)|.(.r K,.wuk. July -.'1. 
 
 SAI.MONIIJ^E. 
 Coregoiius qiiadrllateralis lUrlninhdii. Win ikfihh. 
 Fft'(|ii('iitly tiik..|i ill Ih.. saliimii sciii..s. 
 (>ii(. s|ii.ciMi(n: Miilillc Ki.wak, .\u,i,nist. 
 
 Coregoiuis keuiiicotti Mihirr. 
 
 ^'"' ^■'•'■y '•-•"" '. '''''"^'■•^'•'■"\v<'n'nflar;,'csiz... l„.ii,Ks,.iii,.|iin,.sasl..nnasa(lultsahn„n 
 
 (»n.. s|.(.ciiiM.|i; .Miililj.. Ki.uak. AuHUst. 
 
 Coregoiius nelsonl l!i<iii. 
 
 < >ii(. s|...ciin..|i : Mill. III. Kowak. Alienist. 
 
 CoreponiiB iieerki, \mi-. Oiiiithei. 
 
 ( tllc specimen; Miijille KiiUak, All^'llsl. 
 
 ThymallUB slgnlfer HirlninlsKi,. Amkiucan (iiiA vi.inii. 
 
 A v..ry ahmiihiiit s,,..,.i..s in all IV..sh waters .,f the vv^unu ()lt,.n .„.tl,.i| in h.rov nmnhers 
 :iy tli(. natives. 
 
 One s|)t.cinii.|i- l'|.|...r Knwak. ,luly. 
 
 Stenodua mackeiiziei liirlinrtlxiiii. 
 
 Oii(. siiecinieii; .Miilille Knwak. .\u:;iist. 
 
 OnoorhynchuB gorbiischa Wdlliiiniii. Ill mi'hai k Salmon. 
 
 . '''•'•''•■'';l.v nnlnii.r.. than hair a. I,,.ei,iniliviilualsnr this s 'ies uvr.. seen ilurin,^ i,ui- vi.v 
 
 iWn- i.n tin. nvr. alt hi„mh lai-.. nun,l„.rs ..f lish..s w.ti. exaniineil at everv villa f the 
 
 lliltives. • ,-, I ii.i 
 
 On.. s|i..ciinen; MiiMI.. Ki.wak. .August I. 
 Oiicorhynchus keta 11 ■<(//.(,/■,;/. limi Salmon. 
 
 Th.. pivvailin-. salmon in th,. Knwak. Civiit nunil...rs ilrie.l hy t li.. |...o|,I,.. 
 Salveliniia iiamaycush Wdlluitm. (1iu;at I,akh; 'I'hoi t. 
 
 Mr. ('ai.tw..ll l.n.u^ht m.- a lai-e s,...cimi.n ..f this ma,-iiili,-..nt t. t from the lak,. in which 
 
 he kowak heails. when. h.. to„n,| it in al.iin.lan..... Th.. I.ik.. is .•all,.,| ( 'ar-l......-ah-loi,k-tali l.v 
 
 theiia iv..,s III ivl..|vn..,.t..tl,..«T..at si/.. ..f th..trout inhal.it i,,:;' it. Tin. .sp..ci,.s was m.f m.^l 
 
 wit li (.|s(>wli..r<.. 
 
 Salvellnus malma W'ltlhiiiim. |;i;i>-S|.ottki> 'I'lioiT. 
 
 C(niiiii..ii in the Kowak. K.mii.l also at Ounalaska. 
 
 Three specimens: rpp,.!. K.iwak. .Tuly; Ounalaska, Octolwr. 
 
96 C'UriHK OK THK STKAMKK C'oKWlN. 
 
 KS()t:i|)vK. 
 
 B«OX lUOiUB l.illlKIIIK, I'IKK. 
 
 Aliiiiiiliiiit ill all [iiu'Im i<( tlic Knwuk, TIh-mi' (islifs wci'f nioMt i\ii)nfi'ttnM in ilic liiv;ii(iiis livul- 
 
 ill^ nil' ll'iilll till' I'JM'I', llirkill^r ill till' HliallnWrsl Wlllrl' lilllDll^r till' llliiMHrM, I'l'iini wllil'll \V(< t'lill- 
 
 Htaiitly NtiiHli'il tlh'iii ill wulkiiiK alun^ Nlinri>. WoHliut iiuiii)H>rH nl' tlioiii uh tlixy lay in lli*' 
 iiKi.HMcs Willi liari'l y i'Immi;;]) walcr In mvi'i' IIh'Iii. II is iinHHildc llial llii'y were H|iii.WMitiK Hi''!"'. 
 Twu Hpi-riMiriis; Mii|ill<' Knwak, Aii>;iinI. 
 
 I'LKOKoNKCTIDvK. 
 lilmanda aapera l^illiin, 
 
 'I'iiis spt'cii's was rniiiid in liniili'd nunilnTs in Aiik'i^' ainnii^; llir jtilcs nl' lisli al llii' iiMli\)) 
 
 liH||ill>;-^|'nlinils Ml KnI/i'lilli' Sniiiiil. Il W is llnl sri'll wln'll Wi' |iaHSiM| tlii'lT till' lil'Ht nl'Jilly, 
 
 Tlu't'o H|)i'cinii'iis; Knlzdiui' Sniiiiil, i\ii^;iisl -.'li. 
 
 Pleuronectea Btellatiis I'lilhtH. " I'l.niMH'.it." 
 
 'I'nliTalils alMiiidMiil al Knl/.cipui' Sniiiid early in .Inly. 
 Twti siiccinit-'iis; Kntzdnu' .Sniiiul. July .'l. 
 
 NOTESON MAMMALS, IIIUDS.ANDFISIIKSOHTAINKI) AT VAHIOIIS I'LACKS 
 HKTWEKiN TIIK AKKUTIAN ISLANDS AM) kUTZKIU K SOl'iM). 
 
 At Scliisniari'lV Inlrt, nn An^^iisl ".'s, I saw ninrc slinif hinls curlews, plnsers, j;(Hhvils. 
 snipes, (S;c. than I ever saw hefnre in niie day. Tlie lnnK-'>ill''d siii|pes alVnrdeil parliiulail.\' 
 line spi>rl; they arnse in llneks Irnni the niaishy ^'inimd ever_\ where, sn that even the lyms were 
 al)lt< to liaK <'ntisiileralile iiiinilpers n|' ilieiii. The pniids ami lakeleLs alinul Port Clarence were 
 lilled with Inii^-tail ducks in.luiie ami with widH'enii in .\u);usl, while shnre liirds nl' many 
 species Were very aliiindaiil during l>ntli visits we made there. ilalPs Island. hnwe\er. 1 cnii- 
 sidercfl thi' ninsl interest in^: place at whiili I he Cmu in stnjiped. Us hills are I hree thniisand 
 feet or more in heii^ht. innunt.iins iilnmst . w hicli I he nmsl cnrsnry exam in. it inn shows In he old 
 
 volcalines. Their slopes are Inaded with tlli' heas iest nf spli;if;lium Ve^'elatinll. I I'niind lovely 
 
 plants spi'ln^inK '" riiviues whi'i'e the last year's siinw was still lyint;, while nmre l'a\nral)le 
 S|)nts Were aj^lnW with the liriH;llt cnlnrs nl' llnwers. whose lilnnlll nil this Inliely island is unseen 
 save hy the wild cre-itui'es whn make their Imnie there. 1 lilled iii\ K"uie-liag with some nf thi> 
 showiest oiit's. which have since lieen ideiitilii'd as follows: 
 
 Aronitinn ikiiicIIii.s jjiin. Si'iH'cio rcscilifnliiis Less. 
 
 Hdiiiiiiciilns cinni.s Meiitli.? (Iciiliniid fri<iiil<i Haenkc. 
 
 <'iinl<nniiii' jn-tilcii.si.s L. I'lt/iniiniiinii piilrhi'lhnii HniiLce. 
 
 Ccnisfiinn riil<i<tfinii L. I^i'iliciilnris vti}iil(it<i .\claiiis. 
 
 Scdiiiii vhoiliolii I). ('. Vi'rmiii'it (iljtiiKi L. 
 
 Vdh'riiiiKi cdiiiliihi Willd. t'oli/fiiiinnii riri^iiiriiiii L. 
 
 polar hears are i:unierous. 
 
 St. Micliacrs is a iammis place for ifeese in tin- fall. The natives lii'oii.nht tlieiii on hnard 
 hy the dozen, the assortment consisting;' of white-frnnled, ( 'aiiada. and empernr j^eese. .\ strik- 
 ing feature of the place is the large numlier of ja'gers (Slcnontri iis) thai lly ahoiil the hay. 
 
 Having spent the greater part of tlie suiunier farther north. I i|i<l not Iuinc an opportunity 
 of visiting the islaiul of St. ( ienrge. n^ the I'riliylnlV grniip, .•md did imt pick ii]( many specimens, 
 e.xcept fur-se;ils. while at St. {'aiil's. the n.se nf lire-arms heing prnliihited during the si'aling 
 season, imd my time heing taken up with the seals. A week or more s|)eiiti)ii Otter Island was 
 ])ro(luctive of many desiralile nrnitholngical specimens, oik^ species (Triiif/d (laiii'iKCfiixin) 
 lieing new to the fauna of Xnrlh .\merica. 
 
 A visit to the Farallone Islands, otV the f'alifornian coast, where tliere ar(> myri.ids of sea- 
 hinls. had pre])ared me only in a slight m(>asure for the ornithological wonders of the Prihy- 
 loffs. While the steamer was passing St. (leurgu's the surface uf the sua was dotted with bird 
 
8 
 
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 OD 
 OD 
 
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 I 
 
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CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 97 
 
 r.-inis in all .liivctioi.s as fur iis oyc could s(m>. Lciig linos of flying snillomot.s (.nciirlci the 
 isiaiul and hounded the horizon. All avaihihlc portion.s of th.. i)old hluffs wt-iv crowded with 
 niurirs. auks, iiumiis. and other hirds, whose clamor was unceasiuK. Birds are not ne-irly as 
 niun..rous at St. I'aul's. ( >tter Island, which is hut little fre.iuented l.y the fur-s.'al on accoui.t 
 of Its alino.st continuous shore line of hUiffs. is a strouKhold for the hirds. Wc.gotthe ej-Ks of 
 the fulmars hy swin-iuK over the cliffs on th ■ en.l of a n.pe. The ,.g«s of the murres were 
 usually more acce.ssihle. hut tho.se of theauklets werj.' hidden far hack in narrow rock crevices 
 where it was inipo.ssihle to get at them. 
 
 A few plants gathered incidentally on St. Paul's in Septeml)er and on Ounalaska Island in 
 ()ct(jher have heen determined as the following species l)y Dr. V\asejr: 
 
 St. Paui/s. 
 
 R<itnnirnh,s ninilis R. Br.; Aconitnin uapelhis L., var. Papan'r nmJicaide L • Ccnis- 
 tnim arrnis,' L. ; Hoiikeitift, /wijloiilcs. Ei'hr. ; ralpriaud dioivu L. ; Tara.nirnw i>fliciniile L • 
 (lrnhii>»it,;H-Uii. Rott.: P,>ln„„„iiiw cn'ntleum L. ; Pnlnp„di„,H n,h,(,reh.; Asnidimn sid- 
 II iild.'iinii Hwtivi'/,; Aspidiinii loiirliitifiHwtivtz. 
 
 Ounalaska. 
 
 \-iirrii,iii,n ii/i(/i„i,.vtinh.; r,V/(//r</(a //•/?//>/« Haenke; h,l,,i>oiJh,m rnhinre L- Asni- 
 (I III III htiirlnhs, Swartz. ' 
 
 MAMMALS. 
 
 apermophilus empetra ( I'alltix). I'ahuy's SpKinioi-niLK. 
 
 Parry's Sperniophil.. is not uncommon ahout Port Clarence. Its skin is very extensively 
 used hy the i)eople of th.- coa.st for making parkas, shirt-like garments with hoods, and other 
 clothing. 
 
 One specimen; Port Clarence, August ;}(). 
 
 Arvicola obscurus Ercr.siiidini. 
 
 In many places on Hall's Island the ground was honeycoml)ed with the hurrows of what 
 I took o ho lemmings {Mi/ndrs), hut the only specimen ohtained proves to he a mouse 
 alth.mgh of lemming-like appearance. It is possihlo that the lemming also exists there 
 Eumetopias stelleri (Acskoh). Stkm.eu's Ska-mox. 
 
 I ohtaiiKHl an immense male of this species in Septemher at St. Paul's, where it is moder- 
 ately common. 
 
 Callorhinus ursiiius (Uniiv). NouriiKiiN' Fcit Seat,. 
 
 Oat hers in countless numhers ,.n the Prihyloff Islan.ls during the summer .season to hreed 
 Hue ()t my specinuMis. a very young one. is an alhiiio. 
 
 Xineteeii specimi'iis:St. I'anl Island. June and Sejitemher. 
 
 OdobaemiB obesus (///.). Tacikic Walhcs. 
 
 Two or three walruses weir killed hy oflicers of the (;>,;riii at Hall's Island Septemher S 
 nut no specimens were sa\-ed. 
 
 Thalassarctoa maritimus (l.iiiiK'i. IVhah Bkaii. 
 
 Four polar hears were in sight at on., time upon the side of the mountain when the Cnnrii, 
 cuino to anchor at Hall's Island on Septemher s. hut they ran awav at sight of ,mr huntin.^ 
 party going ashon>. Three of them escaped over the hills under cover of the fog. the fourth a 
 very large one. taking refuge among the rocks, where it was finally killed, falling to mv own 
 iiHe. The weight of this hear was variou..ly estimated at from fourteen to sixteen hundred 
 pound.s. With the help of a squad of sailors Captain Healy kin.lly sent ashore, I was ahle to 
 convert the unwieldy boast into a specimen. A considerable quantity of the meat was taken 
 H. F,x. 15.'!— — 13 
 
9S CHriSK (»K 'VUF. STKAMKH COKWIN. 
 
 nil ho.-inl ami wms iiniiit.iiiKTil ,-ci.»l ratiii-. Oiimnin' hams was sent totln' Alaska C'omm.T- 
 (•iiiK'c.iM|>aiiy"sai;viit al St. I'aiii's Islaii.i. and slraks rn.iii ii app.'aivil ivunjitrly at liis taiih- 
 for a wrrk ni- imMv. and wciv hi-lily api-iviiatcd l.y all. I iiinitidii tiiis hccaiisr it is .•nii1ra,ry 
 to \\u- Mpiiiinii »\ wiial.Ms ill nviirral, all with whom I .-niiv.Ts.Ml liaviii- d.vlaivil tlic niral of 
 tlu! whilr l»'ar unlit i\<v ln,,i|. Th,' ydlnwish siininicr cnal ..f this s|M'ciincn was so loose that 
 iteiisiiy nibhcd olV, (•xposiiin' thr short hair of the snowy white winter coat. 
 
 HIKDS. 
 
 Urinator adamsii (^■/v^vl. \Viini;-iiii,i.i:i) l.oos. 
 
 I saw a skin of the whitc-hillrd h at tin' house of the I'liileil States Treasury a,u;»'nt on 
 
 St. I'aurs Island. It was killed i'V a native there in .Xu.n'Usl, ISS.'i. 
 
 Urinator Inmine ('.' "»/(.). l!i;i>-Tin!o.\Ti;i) I.oon. 
 
 Voiiiin' liirds of this spiM-ies were rather eoininoii at ( )uiialiiska, in Oetohiu-. 
 ( )iie slieeinieli; ( )uiialaska. • )etolier ■:'■'<. 
 
 ' Lunda cirrhata /'.(//. 'I'l iTie I'l ii-in. 
 
 Vi'ry eoiniiioii alioul the islands of the TrilpylolV uroiip. 
 
 One siiei-inieii; < liter Island, .liine 1 I. 
 Fratercula coruiciilata i.Vc'ih.i. IIoumji I'eii-lN. 
 
 I'rihylolVs. i'rolialily niuiv nuinerons than the |>reeedin,t,'. 
 
 Six siMM'iini'iis: ( (Iter l.-laiid. .Iiine .s I I. 
 Cyclorrhyuchus psittaculus 1 1 'nil.). l'\i;o(,iei r Ai ki.kt. 
 
 Coinnion on the I'rihy loll's. 
 
 One spei'lini'ii: ( )lter Island. .Inne s. 
 Simorhynchus cristatellus ( /'i///.K ('laisii i> AeKl.DT. 
 
 Coinnioii on the i'riljy lolls. 
 
 Three speeiiuelis: ( )tter Islainl. June s. 
 
 Simorhynchus pusillus i I'ull.K 1.k\st Ai Ki.i;'r. 
 Coinnion on the I'riitylolVs. 
 Kiehteeii speeinielis: St. I'aul Island. , J line :;-!•.'. 
 
 Cepphus columba I'nll. rica:oN ( li ii.i.i;mi iT. 
 Oii'y a few seen. 
 {»ne specimen: Ounalaska. < )ctol)er •.':>. 
 
 Uria lonivia arra tl'<ill.\. P.M. i, ass Mruur.. 
 
 ('oninioii on the I'rihylolV Islands in siininier and at Ounalaska in the full. 
 Three specimens: ( )ller IsLind. .Inne ]■.' -I 1: Ounalaska, October •.':>. 
 
 Stercorarius pomarinns (7V//n».). I'oMAiiiNi; .l.v;(a;K. 
 ( )nly seen once. 
 One speciimui: St. P.aul Island. .Inne H;. 
 
 Stercorarius longioaudiis \'ii ill. l.usc; rAii.r.n ,l.i;(a.n. 
 
 C'ominon ahoiit Norton Soiiml and I'ort Clarencf. 
 
 R'ssa tridactyla poUicaris l:!<hiii: I'ac iilc Kittiwaki:. 
 C'onnuon on the Priliylotls. 
 Two specimens: Otter Island, .Iiiiie j-j-lt. 
 
 Risaa brevirostris ( lirnrh). Ui-.D-i.Kdiaon Kittiwakk. 
 ("oininon on the Priliylotls. 
 Six specimens: (JHcr Island. June I'i- 1 I. 
 
CRUISK OK TIIK S'I'KAMKK CfUnVIN. 
 
 99 
 
 Diomedea nigripes Ami. Hi.ArK-KuDTiin Ar.iiA inos-^. 
 
 I ul.taincil scvcl'jil •■trciiifs" ill tlir NuHli I'ju'itir. t Ui. of I llivc Imiullvd miles solit li .,| til.' 
 Aleutian Islfui.ls. hy •• lisliin-r " fur liicni uwr (lie stern nf the vessel witji a ,,K|-line linited 
 with pork. They folloued in the wake of the steamer IV..M1 the time \\i- left Caliloniia until 
 the Aleutian Islands were siufhted. 
 
 Three specimens (skeletons); May 15. 
 
 rulmarus glaoialis rodgersii {Cuss.). Uiidui'.rs's Kii.mai!. 
 Coinmon on the I'rihyloU's. 
 One s[)ecimen; Otter Island, June 14. 
 
 Phalaorocorax pelaglous (/'<(//.). Vi(ii,K.T-(iui;i:.\ Coumohant. 
 Ont^ s])ecimeii; Oiiiialaska. Octoher •.':>. Common. 
 
 Anas americaua (liiicl. Hai.di'atk. 
 
 Ahiuidaiit at ['oi't Clarence in Au.nust. 
 One s|ie<Mmen; l^)rl (!larence. .\iii;iist •.'!). 
 
 Clangula hyemalis (/./■)(((.). Old SyiAw. 
 
 We found this species in al.,Midance late in .June at Port Clarence, where we shot many. 
 Histrionicus histtionious (/./«(/,). llAiil.Kvii.N Dick. 
 
 CVmimon at Otter Island, where 1 ohtaiiied one specimen .lime | i. .\ |l,,el,- ,,f iw,.|iiy ..]■ 
 moivcoiild lie seen on the ro(d<s near the laiidiii.e- at low tide almost any day. 
 
 Arctonetta iisclieri {lintiiill). Sckitacm-.d KiDKit. 
 
 Cajitaiii Healy shot a, fine specimen of (his l.ir.l forme at I'ort Claivnce on .lime •.".». 
 Anaeralbifrona gambeli (//kW/.). .Amkkican Wihti.-fiio.ntki) (Joosk. 
 
 One specimen: St. .Michael's. Septemlier I. 
 
 Braiita canadensis minima h'iiliiir. Cackmno (ioosK. 
 Two specimens: St. .Michaers, Septemhei' f. 
 
 Philacte canagica Sfi-Ksl. Kmi'kuok (Ioosk. 
 ^ Common at S(. MichaePs. Three or lour sdvi-.-lers -vere seen also at St. j'aul Island in 
 
 .^cptemlier. 
 
 Thive s])ecimens: St. .Michael's. Septemlier 4. 
 
 Gius canadensis I /,(■)(//, 1. I.itti.k liiioWN ( 'hank. 
 
 While at St. I^iiil Island some nadves came (o me and ivp,,rte,l haviii- seen a lai-v loiv- 
 l.'.W'l liinl wadin- in a shallow pond ue.ar (lie villa-e. and -ave me a lar-e fe.-nher which l'?e 
 
 I'lnhlropped in its flight. There is loul.t in my mind .■ilu.iil this l.eiii- a crane as the 
 
 spe.'ics IS ahiiiidant on (he mainland, while herons are unknown (here. Mr Klii,,|t lells me .f 
 hayuiy: seen cranes oii St. Ma((hew's Island. It is iio( n.iveii in his lis( of the hirds of (he 
 rrihy lolls. 
 
 Crymophilus ftilicarius (/,/((».). Hi'd Phai.aroit;. 
 
 Phalaropes were constantly present upon a shallow .salt-water pond on ( Jtti^r Island duriie. 
 our stay there. 
 
 Eii>lit s]iecimens: Otter Island. .June S-l->. 
 
 Macrorhamphiis scolopaceus (.SW//). I.ono-bu.i.kii I)awit( riKR. 
 One s])eci7iieii: Port Clarcuice. Au^•ust :>(). 
 
 TrJngaoouesi lii<liiii: .Vm.itian Sandpiimir. 
 
 Five specimens; Ouiialaski-,' (|^iffvl:Je^;•^3.^•:AUurid,t/ll.. u. ducks. 
 
100 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER C'ORWIN. 
 
 Tringa maoulata Virill. I'f.cthkai, Sanwii'EU. 
 
 Two siiiriinfiis; Schisnmrett' Inlet, August W; Port Clarenco, Juno 'iS. 
 
 Tringa damaoeusls (Hwxf. ). Lonk-tokd Stint. 
 
 Hy tlif captun' of tliis Asiiitic Innl on Otter Island. Alaska, where I sliut an adult female, 
 ill hreediiiK |>liiiiiaKe, on June H, lss.5, a sjiecies is added to tlie fauna of Nortli America. It 
 was reediiiw' in a shallow salt-water |ioiid, with other 7'////f/((', wiiicli I suiijiosed to lie Avtu- 
 ih'oiiKis. Ill his Ornithology of Kamtschatka, Mr. Stejiieger writes as follows of this species: 
 • The Long-toed Stint arrives at Bering Island in large tlocksduriiig the latter part of May. and 
 is then met with on sandy iiearhes, where the surf has thrown u|i large masses of sea-weed, 
 busily engaged in picking u]) the nuineroiis small crustaceans, itc, with which the weeds 
 al)(Uind. Most of the hirds stay only a few <laYs, going further iiortli. while a small numlier 
 remain over summer, hreeding sparingly on the lai'ge swamp heliiud the village. My etVorts 
 to liiid llie iiests were unsuccessful, hut 1 shot hirds near Zapornaja Ke.schka on tlio lUk and 
 ■J-.'d of .lune and on tht^ 7tli of August." 
 
 Triuga alpiua paclfica (Cuiifn). 1{ki>-hackki> SASDi'irK.it. 
 
 Two specimens; Port Clarence. June -.'S; Hall's Lslaiul, September iS. 
 
 Limosa lapponica baueri i.V((«//i.). I'acikic (ioDwrr. 
 One specimen; Port Clarence. .August -.".i. 
 
 Heteractitis incanus {(iiiiH.). Wa.nhkhinii Tati.KK. 
 One siiccimeii; Otter Islailil. .IlllieS. 
 
 Cha:adrius domiuicus fulvu8 ifi'»((7.i. 1'ai iilc ( iul.liKN I'LoVEit. 
 
 Two speeinieiis; Poi't Clarence. June -'S- August )iU, Ahundant. 
 
 Arenaria interpres (l.iiiii.). 'rcuNSTosi-,. 
 
 ( )iie s]iecimi'n: Port Clarence, ■Iiiiie ".'s. 
 
 Lagopus rupestiia nelsoni Slijii. Nki.shn's I'taKMKian. 
 
 1 hadexcelli'iit sjiort shooting tlie.xe liirdsoii Hog Island, at t lie entrance of Captains Harbor. 
 Kleveii specimens: ()uiialaska. .May '.'s. 
 
 Halifeetus leucocephalua {I. inn.). Hai.d I'.AcU.K. 
 
 \'crv (iimiuon about the rocky blull's of ()unalaska Island. 
 
 Corvus corax sinviatus (ll'<i;//.l. .\Mi:nicAN Kavkn. 
 Two specimens; ()unalaska. ( )ctobcr ".'.'i. 
 
 Leucosticte griaeouucha (Ilniiiilt). Al.KfllAN Hosy Kincii. 
 Common on tlie I'ribylotf and Aleutian Islands. 
 Twelve specimens; Ouiialaska. October •.>.■>; ( )tter Island, June S. 
 
 Acaiithis horiieraaiinii exilipes (Cdkcs). Hoakv Kkdi'oli.. 
 One specimen; Port Clarence. June -,'8. Common. 
 
 Plectropheuax nivalis [I.iiiit.). SNOwii.AKli. 
 Pribylolfs. Common. 
 Five specimens; Otter Island. June f*. 
 
 Plectropheuax hyperboreus Ridiju: MiKay's Snowfi.ake. 
 
 While the ('i>nriii was anchored otf Hall's Island, on September S. T obtained twospo'-umens 
 of this species, which was comparatively numenms there. Hying in pairs over the sphagnum- 
 covered hill-slojies or gathering in small numbers in the ravines near the .sea-shore. The lirecd- 
 ing-place of this species, which. M'l^s d'-'.st ''ibed in JSSt f.(.m siieciiueiis taken at Nusliagak, 
 Alaska, by :Mr. Charles McKay, lurd'itt St.'Miclui<'lV, l;j Mr Xelson. has remained a mystery 
 
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CRUIKK OK THK S'I'KAMKK CollWIN. 101 
 
 until its (liacOviTy in yoimi; mikI l>r liny piiiiiiaK-.' "ii Hull's Islimd. It is not ini|irolpal)lc tliiit 
 
 tlicsnowMiik-csol' this island imhI I lie liifi,^' adJuininK island of St. Mattlicw's aic all lijuirrlinrciin. 
 miowliakt's liaviii),' hccn seen im llic lattrr in aliundancc iiy .Mi', Kiliolt. Mr. Kid^way sn.!.,'j,'csls 
 (Tlif Auk. April, ISSfJ) that tlicsMn\vllal<r> nfSt. Lawrcncr island, nn.rt'thun a liiindrcd niiifsto 
 tlu! ndrtliward. may Im'oI' this siircics, hut that all timsc as yet kiKiwn fruni the I'riliylotl's. iwn 
 hundred niiirs to the southward, arc true /'. niidlia. Lcssthaii a<l(>zi'n siicciuicns of i'. /i/nx'r- 
 hitn-iis have ever iiccn taken. The plate rejiresent in^ this liird was drawn I'roui the type speci- 
 mens in sjiriuK plumage, in summer plumage it may readily he distinguished from the ordi- 
 nary snowtiakc hy its H'cueral whiteness, having- no hiack except on tlie tips of tlie(piills, wliile 
 iiintlix is c<)n.spicunu.s by it.s hIack hack and more extensively lilackened primarii'S. /'. iiirnh's 
 lias also the three middle paii's of tail-feathers hiaek to the hase. Iin/ii-rlinrriis liavint; them hnt 
 slijrhtly hIack near the ends. The fenuilesof li i/pcihdreiin nn' imU'V :i\u\ less marked with hIack 
 than tiiose of iiira/is. 
 
 CalcariuB lappoiiicua (/v/ti/i.). L.vi-LANn Lo.nosih'U. 
 
 These hii'ds. wlii( h Were plentiful in .lune. were rare in .Vu^nist. 
 Two sjiecimens: I'ort Clarence, dune -^'.s. 
 
 AmmodramuB saiidwicheiiBis ift'mi/. ). SANhwicM SrvitKiiw. 
 
 One specimen; Oiinalaska, Octi)hei' h;. Thi' only one seen. 
 
 Melospiza cinen-a (*r'y»(7. i. Al.KiriAN SeNu .Scmiudu. 
 
 Very ahundant ahout -Onnalashka Island. 1 saw several Aleutian song .s])iin'()\vs cuKed. 
 and in every instance they were con tiding am! familiar when taken' fi'oni the cage and given the 
 liijerty of the hou.se. The sung in contiuenient is a low whistle, sweet and phiinlive. 
 
 Twelve specimens; ( >unalaska. Octolier l'.i--il. 
 
 Passerella iliaca i.l/i/-/. ). lAix SPAuitow. 
 
 1 saw several fox sjjari'ows in hrushy placi's unw the hills at I'orl Cliireiice. hnt they were 
 wild and kept in the cover so closely that it was quite impossihie to si I them. 
 
 Ciuclus mexicanus .s'ir(//i/.>.-. Amkuican Dn'i'KU. 
 
 The only dipper I .saw in Alaska was one 1 shot on the liorder of the lake heliind the village 
 at Ouiuilaska. October Kl. 
 
 Troglodytes alascensis lifiird. Alaskan Whkn. 
 
 Five sjiecimens; Ounalaska. October l!i. .Abundant, 
 
 PhyllopseuBtes borealis (/>Vi(.s-.). Kknnk (Ht's Wn.i.ew Wauhlku. 
 
 I shot my second specimen of this /-(wa ((fi.s at Port Clarent'e on August .'!(>. hut lost it 
 wliile returning to the ship. The other specinu'U was taken on the K'owak liiver August I. 
 The species is a straggler from the Asiatic side of the Straits. 
 
 TurduB aliciae lininl. (iitAV-c iikkkkd Tniicsii. 
 
 This bird was seen on three or four occasions at Port Clarence and Schijimarefl:' Inlet late 
 in August. 
 
 ()uu specimen; Port Clarence. August .'io. 
 
 FISHES. 
 
 Ammodytea americanus personatus Oimn}. Sand I^ainck. 
 
 One specimen; Port Clai'ence. August ;!l. The ouly one .seen. 
 
 CottuB humilis /?ivitf. ,.■'•■'.• \'. '. \ ';•;';■'.•; '■'.' 
 
 A single specimen of this species was hrouglitji.huartl the C'u^;<(w'(i. fit Capo Prince of Wales 
 June ao. ■■ ," •'■• ::■ . • ••••■! '• '■■ '■ ';" 
 
IQ2 CHUISK UK THK STKAMKR t'DHWIN. 
 
 Oymnaoanthu* galeatu* llniii. 
 
 Our siHriiiirii; I'nrt t'l.m'iic.., AiiKO-^t ;;i. Th.' <.i.l.v on.' sfi-n. 
 
 HomUepidotu«jordanl /f.ini. 
 
 Two or tl.ivn siMrinu-M. ..f I Lis tisli w,.,v i.l.M.tili.-.l at O.in.ilHsk.i. but n-.n.^ w.t.. h.iv.mI. 
 
 PodotheciiB nolpeiiierliim 7'/7r.i/»«. , , ,. i . 
 
 l„l,tnin...l tl.islisluit St. Paul IsIumJ. aii.l savv a f.-w .Iricl siM-cnn.M.s at. Ou.uilaska ol wliat 
 Hi)i).'an.(l to I..' iln- samt- spt'cit's. Siicli lislics iiiv coimiik.u tlu-iv. 
 
 OiinsiH'ciiiicn; St.. Paul IhIiukI. .Imn'il. 
 
 PleurogadiiB navaga Ki'ih: 
 
 Ou.'siHriiucn: ( iolwin Bny, Scptombcr 1. Common. 
 
 HippogloBBoides jordanl h>ckiin.iUm. , ,« , , 
 
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