.-«fc.»*S-vi; ■-* 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 "Hawkins' Picture of Quebec with Historical 
 Recollections" was published in J8*J4, and from 
 the beauty of diction, interest of narrative, and 
 accuracy, it at once took its place as all that was 
 needed as a Tourist's Guide. JJut as time passed, 
 the edition became exhausted, and latterly so ex- 
 tremely scarce, that seven dollars have been paid 
 for a single Copy. Previous to tlu; j)ub:ication of 
 Hmvkiu!^, there had issued from the press of 
 Thomas Cary <£• Co., in IS'U, a very usei'ul little 
 work ol' forty two |>age.s, entitled " Qiu-bec and 
 its environs" being a |)ictures(|ue guide to stran- 
 gers. The author is anonymous but the v,'ork 
 was well written, and fully answered its professed 
 object, to guide in their rambles stiaiig(M"s vi,-,iting 
 Quebec. Unfortunateiy it is also now out of 
 ]»irnt. 
 
 Ml'. Holiwell, Army Stationer, Buade Street, 
 having had frequent enquiries for a (Uiide Book, 
 which he was unable to answer, applied to me, 
 and in compliance with his recpiest, I have jn'e- 
 pared the following little work, which I trust will 
 meet all that it aims at, and l>e found to be a trust 
 worthy •' Tourists Guide." In its preparation, I have 
 consulted Champlahi, LoHoiitait, CJni.rhvoix, 
 SilUriKiit, Pai'kin(i)i, Haivkins, Qwbce and its 
 Erivirous, dr.. d'C. Should it })rov(» a substitute, 
 however humble for the works which have preceded 
 it, I shall be well satisfied. 
 
 W. J. ANDERSON, 
 
 Quebec, Grande All^e. 
 23rd March 1872. 
 
IIOI.IWELL'S 
 
 TOURIST GUIDE 
 
 TO 
 
 QUKBKC, 
 
 CHAPTFJl T. 
 
 QITEBP](' at lea-^t foi- an American City, in t;er- 
 certninly a vciy peculiar pbice. A military town— 
 cjntaininix about twoiitv thousanf! inliabitants — 
 most coni]):i(;tIy and permanently built — stone its 
 sole material — onvironcil as it is to its most ijopor- 
 tant parts by walls atnl ^i^'ates — an*l defended by 
 numerous heavy cannon — p-atTisoned by troops 
 ha vin^l^ the arius, the costume, the music, the disci- 
 pline of Europe — foreif^n in lan^i^'aage, features and 
 orip;in, from most of those wln)m they jire sent to 
 defend — founded on a rock, and in its highest ])arts, 
 overlookiuii" a jxreat extent of Oountrv — between 
 three a!id four huuih'ed miles from the ocean — in 
 the midst of a. great continent — and yet displaying 
 fleots of foreigii nnn-chant men in its tine capacious 
 bay — and showing all the bustle of a croM-ded sea- 
 port — its streets uarrow — po])ulous, and winding 
 up and down almost montainous declivities — si- 
 tuated in the latitud(^ of the linest parts of Europe 
 — exhibiting in its enviions, the beauty of a Euro- 
 pean ca])ital — and yet in winter, smarting with 
 the cold of Siberia — governed by a j)eoi)le of diffe- 
 rent language and lml)its from the mass of the popu- 
 lation — op[)osed in religion, and yet lea.ving that 
 population without taxes, and in the full enjoyment 
 of every })rivilege civil and religious: such ai-e the 
 j)rominent features, which strike a stranger in the 
 City of QUEBEC. 
 
 This is the language of Professor SlLLlMAN, who 
 
— 7 — 
 
 visited Queboc in 1(S19. Xotliinfjf could bo more 
 correct than this desciiptiou at the time it was 
 written, hut very materiMl changes liave since then 
 taken place. Th<nigh " St. (4eor;4-e's llanrier broad 
 and gay " still Hoats from tlie Citadel tlagstaff, the 
 Britisli sentinel no longer, " I>()W humming, })aces 
 along" at tin; gates, and the Inijicrial garrison has 
 been wholly withdrawn. Again the population 
 which in LSI!), amounted to a,l)out 2(),()()0 has now 
 reached, according to the Census of bSTl.the res- 
 pectable number of ol), ()})!>. 
 
 It may be annising to place along side of Silli- 
 man, the impressious of the " Times'' ( V)rr(^s])ondent 
 wlien h(^ visited Quebec on the occasion of tlu; visit 
 of the Prince of Wales, in 18G(). Pie wrote that 
 Quebec could bo best described by supposing that 
 an ancient Norman Fortress, of two centuries ago, 
 had been encased in Amber, and transported by 
 magic to Canada, and placed on the summit of Ca])e 
 Diamond, wheve its pecidarit'es had been ]»reservt;d 
 as if it were still in AmluM*. This desci-iption may 
 with.)ut im|)ropr'ety be ap})lied to the City within 
 till vv'alls, which from the nature of its ]»ositionhas 
 retained most of its early features, but the suburbs 
 are extensive and present quite a modern aspect. 
 
 The Tourist in approaching Quebec l)y water 
 from Montreal, does not see either the city or for- 
 tifications to advantage, an<l his attenti(»n is only 
 attracted by the CoVKS tillcil with rafts and crowded 
 
 v' 
 
 with shi))ping, by Wolfk'k l^ove, so famous in 
 histor}' : and by the frowning Cape liianiond, sur- 
 mounted by tlie Citadel ; and it is only after the 
 steamer has reached that ( 'ape, that a portion of 
 the City comes into view. But whoever approaches 
 from the Ocean, wdienever he has])assed Po'mteLc vis 
 and entered the Basin, is at once entranced and 
 enchanted by the magnificent panorama that bursts 
 upon his view, unsurpassed in natural beauty, and 
 rich in historical recollections ; and should he be so 
 
8-^ 
 
 fortunate as to arrive tlinin;:f a tlumtler storm, be 
 must be struck witb tbe ahnost literal resemblance, 
 W'liich it bears to I'^diubur;;!! as deseribed by Seott : 
 
 " still on tlif>Hi»i>t Tiiinl Marmion stai<l, 
 For fiiirer Hooiie ho no'cr hurvevucl, 
 The wanduriug eyo oouM o'er it go, 
 And ujiirk tho ditstaut (.'ity glow, 
 
 111 glooiuy thuiiilci' red. 
 For on the feiuoker wreaths huge and slow, 
 That round her sabli; siimmita glow, 
 
 Tlie iiioniiug lieaiua were shed, 
 And tinged iheni with a luatro proud, 
 Like that which streaks a tliundt-r.cloud ; 
 Siieh dusky grandeur clotlied the height 
 Where the huge castle liolds its state, 
 
 And all the steel) 8lo[>e down, 
 iVIioftc i'i(/<ji/ Imck liitn'c:^ to tin «/•// 
 Piled (licp and man.^i;, clone (Did li'njk 
 
 Mine on'ii romiint'ic town,'' 
 
 Should the strauger hoAvever be in Quebec 
 duriiig the moouiig'ht, let him tiike a ealeiiie ami 
 drive out ns far as IJeauport Asylum, aud slowly 
 returniuLf, he will find inmself most amj)lv rewarded. 
 He will see before him a sceiu} such as is only to be 
 found described in the " Arabian Nights," a city 
 not resjdendent in |)ui-])le and g(>ld, but chastened 
 by the moons silver light, the steeples and roofs of 
 is Cimrehos, ('(invents, \:c„ kc, standing out in a 
 silver fin me. 
 
 With these general j-emarks I .shall now proceed 
 to the more nunute descri[)tion of what is worthy 
 of the Toui'ists study, stating at the outset, that 
 the naiural features, the spots famous in story, and 
 the fortitieatioi.s, l)uildings and institutions, ought 
 in turn to engage his attention. 
 
 Starting after breakfast from the St. Louis Hotel, 
 let the traveller pass slowly along tho ancient 
 street of St. Liniis, still the chief street within the 
 wails. He mav observe on hi:i leftalartre building, 
 known till lately as the Oflieers " Quarter." A little 
 in rear stands the Garrison Hospital, built imme- 
 diately under the Mount Carmel, at the spot once 
 
— 9 — 
 
 known RH tli(> WiiKluiUl ll'iV, wlu'io also in tho 
 times oi'old, tlu'vo was a batt'My. Pashiii^r alono;;, a 
 lai;«:,'e o])('n space on tlii3 riijjlit is ivacht.'il, {•ailed the 
 Ksitld tiinlr, used for sonu; tinu^ past i'or the pur- 
 j)oses of drill and ])anide, antl hen; in the Hno snni- 
 nier oveninirs the inhahitants nsei' to (•on'jfre<4at(! to 
 listen to the Military l)aeds. On thv; h'tt or oppoo 
 site side of the I'oad is a lonu* h>w hiiildin'j: tlu; OlHcd 
 of the K.oval I']n<;ine(M"s, and Vteside it the I'oat 
 leading" i)ast tlu; Mililaiy I'risou, to tlie CitacUd. A- 
 this ]»oint there forniei-ly stood St. Louis' (}ate. It y, 
 was removed dnriii«;- the past season, liaving- been 
 found useless fbi- (kdence, and a \:^\'vi\i obstruction 
 to intercourse between the city and country. Mr. 
 Baillari^o, the City Surveyor who superintended its 
 removal, has so coiu])lete'd llu; cui witih a retaininjf 
 wall and sloping sodded bank^ that unless h(> were 
 told, the stranger wouhl not sup])ose that the forti- 
 fications had bt;en intei-fcred with. Passing throucjh, 
 t^'e outside of the main wall is reached, and there 
 i.s an opixntindtv oi" imUduLi: of the former strength 
 of the gate, for a good view is here obtained of its 
 extensive outwoiks. From this i>oint conunenees 
 tlu: (Trdiidr Alhu' or St. Louis Road. Ascendinii: 
 this road by its gra<lual but steady slo])e, at about 
 for :nindi-ed yards distance from the (dty wall, you 
 }i])])roach the ( 'onunanda.nt's House, which is nearly 
 on a h'vel with the base of the Citadel. On tuvninij; 
 and looking back as you a])i)roach this house, 
 you have an excellent view of the Citadel and of 
 the old Frt'nch works which extend beyond it, to 
 the extremity of the Cajjc, over looking VAnsa des 
 Meret^. A little beyond the Commandant's at the 
 top of what is very generally known as Perreaidt's 
 Hill, there is a range of heights now occupietl by 
 the Martcllo Tow^ers, known as the Biiftes-d-Neveu 
 and it was here that Murray took his stand on the 
 morning of A])ril 28th 17()1), to resist the advance 
 of Levis, and hcic commenced the hardest fought and 
 
. —10 — 
 
 mostbloudy action of the war, which terminated in tlie 
 defeat of Murray and his retreat within the City, 
 Tlie JMaitclhj towers are bonibpi'oof, they are four 
 in number and form j. cliain extending along the 
 ridgt; fi'oiii the St. Lawrence to tlie River St. Char- 
 les. Tlie fact that this ridge commanded tlie City, 
 unfortunately in(kiced Mun"ay to leave it and at- 
 tem]>t to fortify thj lieights, in wliich he was only 
 ])artially successful owing to tlie frost being still in 
 the ground. The British Government were made 
 aware of tiie fact, and seeing that from-the improved 
 artillery, the City was noAv fully commanded fiom 
 these heights wliich are about seven hundred yards 
 distant, decided to l;uild the Towers. Arrangements 
 were accordingly made by Col. Brock, ilum com- 
 manding the troo])S in Canada, in IbOG thu neces- 
 sary materials were collected and in tlie following 
 year their construction commenced. They wsere 
 not hovv'cver completed till 1S12. The original esti- 
 mate ibr the four was XS,()0(), but before com[)leti(>n 
 tie Imperial Government had expended nearly £12, 
 000. They are not all of the same -size, l)ut like all 
 iMartello Towers they are circular and bombproof 
 The exjiosed sides aie thirteen feet thick and gra- 
 dually diminish like the horns of the crescent moon, 
 to srrri) feet in the centre of the side next th(! City 
 walls. The lirst oi- lower story contains, tanks, store- 
 rooms and maixazine : the second has cells for the 
 garrison, and portholes for two guns. On the top 
 there used to be one 08 })ounder carronade, two 24, 
 and two 9 pounders. 
 
 Some what further on, about a mile distant from 
 tlie <-'ity, the'Toll gate is reached, where the Plains 
 of Abraham expaiifi and stretch to the left. At the 
 time of the great battle identified with the name, 
 the whole heights oi' jdains as they are indifferently 
 called, extended fnjin the walls to the woods of 
 Sillery and St. Foy, and were bounded on one side 
 by the St. Lawrence on the other by the St. Charles. 
 
■■^^f.!^r- 
 
 '»*?!' 
 
— 11 — 
 
 They arc described as being* without any dividing 
 fences, but were dotted here niid there with clumps 
 of trees, and the (irande Alk'e jiassed througli 
 them, as it does now ; as did also the St. Foy road. 
 Since then great encroacliments have been made : 
 the suburbs of St. Louis and St. J (Am occupy 
 great portions and the name FldAhs has for a num- 
 ber of years been confined to the inclosed space, at 
 which we have now arj-ived, and whieli lias been 
 used as a race course, and f.tr lli' views of the irar- 
 vison. 
 
 Passing througli the Toll gate and immediately 
 turning to the lel'l there is a road which leads to 
 Wolfe's Monument, about a hundred yards distant. 
 The monument is a very chaste circular column 
 rising from a s([uare pedestal, and surmonteil by a 
 sword and ^'helmet. On the one side of the ])edestal 
 is an inscription, as follows : 
 
 HERE DIED 
 
 WOLFE 
 
 VICTOIMOUS 
 
 Sci>f. 13 
 175!). 
 
 AND ON THE OTHER SIDE 
 
 This Pi/l<i.r 
 u'cis errectcd hj/ the 
 
 Bhitish Au.mv 
 
 1)1 Cami'hi 1«49. 
 
 His Excdli'.ncy 
 
 L'ieiitrnaiit General 
 
 Sir Bkn.iamin D'Uuhain 
 
 g c b, k c h, k (' t s, &c. 
 
 Commander of flte Forces. 
 
 To replace that errected t/i/ 
 
 Governor General Lord Avl:\[er, g c n. 
 
 in lcS32, 
 
 ■which teas broken and defaced 
 
 and is deposited beneath. 
 
— 12 — 
 
 The colnmn is eroctod on the spot where the 
 Avoiui(lf<1 general was carried to die. He received 
 liis last wound, (lor lie wa,s several times wounded) 
 on the heiijht a little above, where the new jail 
 now stands. Having ins])e;j;ted the monument and 
 viewed the plain, turning back to the Grande AUde, 
 we may ])roeeed west ward to where the ])laiQ ter- 
 minates at M(U'c]i'i)iont the beautiful residence and 
 grounds of John Gilmour Esq. On the site of 
 Marchmont House, it is said was DeVergors post, 
 established to defend the landing at L'Anse da 
 Foidou, since then kiKJwn as Wolfes Cove. The 
 road descending to the cove, bounds the western 
 side of the Marehmount (Jrounds, and thouo^h the 
 lower part is very steep, it is an excellent carriage 
 road, by which the cove cnn be reached with 
 fticility. After visiting the Cove, let the tourist 
 turn his carriaire eastward and ])a-;sin<£ alonfj the 
 I'oad between the liigh precipitous bank and the St. 
 Lawrence ap'proach tlie Lower Town by Fres-de- 
 Vllle and Clnun}ilain Street. On arriving at Frh- 
 de-VlUe, his attention will be attracted, by a 
 board high up on the rock, bearing an inscription, 
 ' Here Montgomery fell." The position of the board 
 and the inscription have led not a few to sn[)[)osc, 
 that the unfortunate general while; attem])ting to 
 scale the heights fell from that spot and was killed. 
 The true story will be given furthei- on, but it may 
 be mentioned here, that on the morning of the III 
 Dec. 1775, this gallant f-oklier while leading a 
 large body of his troo})s to storm the City fell at 
 the first fire of a gun from a battery which had 
 been })laced so as to swee[) the road. ( Joing on 
 wards, we note that the ground on which Cham- 
 2)lain Sti-eet is built, must have been redeemed 
 from the St. Lawrence, for on the one side tlie 
 houses stand close to the Rivei- and on the other 
 creep undei", the frowning cllfi", which after Cap- 
 Blanc and L" Anse-des-j\Iere8 are passed, rises ab:.iost 
 
Vm/m/mmmmJ: ••, ■■■ ^JM 
 
perpoiulicularly upwards of three humlrod feet, and 
 at tlio east eiKl of Cave IMamond is crowned by the 
 ( 'itadel. Pmceodinijj along find enterhig Pdcr IStrect, 
 tlie narrow, dirty, but ini])<>rtant business Street, 
 and turniiio- west ward, at St. Paul Street, wo 
 reach tJK^ spot known as Saidt-aii-Mafclof, ever 
 nu'nioralilc tor the signal repulse of the American 
 (leneral Arnold on tlie same niornino; which 
 proved so dicsastrous to his Commander in (^liief, 
 Montifomerv, The name is calculated to mislead, 
 as it might l)e supi)osed to mean the H'lUorfi Leap ^j,'^ 
 while it seems it was so called from a do(f, called 
 Matehtt or Sdilor. Still going westward tlie ram- 
 l)arts are seen crowning the rocky eminence, and 
 the roads leading to the Upper Town through Hope 
 iiud P< flare (r(ije». Beyond Palace Gate the ramparts 
 extend to the Artillery Barracks where they turn 
 olf at almost aright angle and ascend to the Cita- 
 del. Haviii'jj thus made a circuit of three sides of 
 the Fortress, the heights may be reached by wind- 
 mill liill, at tlie top of which may be seen a round 
 grassy mound the site of a battery j)laced to defend 
 the bridge of boats over the St. Charles ; entering 
 upon and passing along the St. Foy road now beauti- 
 *ful fr(»m its handsome villas, at a distance of a mile 
 from the Toll gaie, at the foot of the Belvidere 
 road, we find the handsome colunm, surmounted 
 with a fine bronze statue of Bellona, known as the 
 St. Foy monument. This monument occupies the 
 site of Duiiiouts mill, famous as the scene of a 
 succession of sanguinary attacks and repulses on 
 the day of the battle of St. Foy. — It bears on the 
 north side of the pediment a Gallic Cock, on the 
 ojiposite an inscription testifying, that it was erected 
 by the «S7. Jean Baptlstc society to tlie memory of 
 the brave men w^ho fell there. Mr. Lemoint; has 
 })ointed out in his " MapJ(\ Leaves'' that. " It has 
 occurred to many that the inscription ' Er'igi^ par 
 les citoyeiis de Quebec,' would have been more ap- 
 
— 14 — 
 
 propriato, considoriiip- that many citizens ecrta'tily 
 not Jean Bnptistcs, subscribi'd iilicraly to the ino- 
 miinent fiind." On the shield to tho east is tlie 
 name Ml'HllAY and the British Insi^niia, on tiiat to 
 the west Lkvis, suniiounted by tlu; ai'ins of France. 
 The foundation is of stone and the cohinni ot Ihitcd 
 bronzed iron, forming an exceedingly well |)i'o- 
 portioned and Ijandsome monument. The fouiuhi- 
 tion was laid with mucii ceremony in l;so.'), but the 
 column was not connnenced till lS(j() and the 
 inauofuration took ])lace only in 'October 1S():>. It 
 ought to be mentioned that th(^ statue of /ul/ona 
 was the gift of Prince Jerome Napoleon. Having 
 admired the monument and bixuriated in the 
 glorious prospect which it overlooks, we may ]iass 
 up the prett}^ Belvidere road, which count cts the 
 St. Jolin or St. Foy road with that of St. liouis, 
 and return to the City }>y the road by wliich we 
 left it, when tliere will be an excellent opj)ortunity 
 of atrain viewiui; tlie Citadel, and the City wall. 
 
 (ii.\.PTi!:ii H. 
 
 The Foriifications. 
 
 The fortifications of Quebec are AV(.dl worth}' of 
 special attention. Originating thiee centuries ago 
 from the necessit}'' of protecting the few iidiabi- 
 tants from the sudden and secret attacks of the 
 Iroquois ; from theii- small beginning in 15:^"),they 
 eventually attained such vast proportions as to 
 make Quebec be styled the GlbraUar of America. 
 
 Recently very great changes have l)een etfected, 
 in the first place arising from the grent changes in 
 the military art, in the second place fiom the new 
 policy of the Imperial (iovernment, which has witii- 
 drawn every soldie?\ Prescott and St. Louis ixates; 
 have been removed during the }>ast autumn and 
 other still greater changes have been talked of, but 
 
— 15 — 
 
 this will (liiiiinisli very littlo tho intoroHt of the 
 Tourist, who nnluss iiif'oriiHMl of tluj inct, would not 
 be Mw.'irc of tlu^ ronioval of the g;itus ; tlie reuiiiining 
 fortifications are in theinsi;lves a sight not to be 
 seen elsewhere on this continent. 
 
 The fortilications now eonsist of those of the eity 
 ]>n'\)QY, tho A licit' III ('((>/, and of the independent 
 fortalice of the Citadel, M'hieh though within tho 
 City walls, is eonijilete in itself — The ramparts 
 and bastions form a eirenit of the extent of two 
 miles 'ind fhri'e (piarters, but the line if drawn 
 without the onlworks would he increased to three 
 miles. Tlie Citadel oe('U))ies about forty acres. In 
 order to inspect the works to most advantage, the 
 visitor is reeouimended to proceed from his hotel 
 U[) St. Louis sti'ei't .and turning u|) the road bet- 
 ween till' (ii'/f and the olHee of R. Kngiueers, ascend 
 by its winding. The lirst thing that will altrj\<;t his 
 attention on arriving at the outworks, is the (%ai a 
 Gi'ta, i)ast;in<>' throuirh whieh and alonix the ditch he 
 will observe the castjiUMted Dnlliousir Basfioii, and 
 W'ichhv^ DitlhouHie Gute lie will lind that it is very 
 nnssive and of considerable depth, as it contains 
 the Cuard-rooms. Passing through, a sj^acious area 
 is entered forming a parade ground. On the right 
 hand, there are detache(l buildings — annuunition 
 stores and armoury — On the south, the bomb 
 proof hospital and officers ([uarters overlooking the 
 St. Lawrence, and on the Tov/n side, the Bastions 
 with th(*ir eiiscmated barrack ;, commodious, and 
 comfoi'tMltle, the loop lioles intended for the dis- 
 chaige of musketry, from within, serving to admit 
 light and air — from the Bastion to the Fl g Stafi', 
 the Citadel is separated from the Town by a deep 
 ditch and steep and broad rjlacls — At the Guard 
 Ibjuse at D'tJhoasle Gate, a soldier is detached to 
 accomp;i 113- visitors, who generally cari-ics them ah)ng 
 the circuit pointing out the most striking features 
 of the fortress — The view^ from the Fh\g Stall' is 
 
— 16 — 
 
 very <^nin<l, but it is roconimondod thut the visitor 
 on urrivint' at tln^ wcstcMU ;ui<jl(' overlook iii<' tlio St. 
 Lawrt'Moc, slioiiM phic*) hiiuscll* on tho Prhu'c.s 
 Stand iiuHciitcd by a stone on wliirh Is scnlpLured 
 the " Princes Feutlior, " and tlufi't; feast Ids evoH on 
 — the wondrous beauties of th(^ scene, Should time 
 IxMinit, the Armoury ix well woitliy ()l'insj)e('tion — 
 Ueturniiig, the visitors if pedestrians slioulil ascend 
 the ranipai'ts 2') I'eet hi,L,di, on which will be t'onnd a 
 covered way, extontlinijf tVoni the ('itadcl, aixl |)as- 
 sin;L^ over St. Louis and St. John's dates, to tlie 
 Artillery l^ari'acks, a distance oi' 1<S:>7 yards, oc- 
 cupied by bastions, connected with curtains of solid 
 masonry, and pierced at re;4ul.ii' intervals with sally 
 ports. This tbrins a deliij^htfal pronicMj.de fui-nishiii<^ 
 especially at St. John's (Jate, a series of very line 
 view%s. 
 
 The Artillery i»an'acks at the south west corner 
 of the fortifications overlook the valley of the St. 
 Charles. Part of the buildings which are extensive, 
 wa.s erected by the Fi'ench in 17")0 ; they are sur- 
 rounded bv fine ijrounds. Lately a very Iiandsoine 
 additional barrack was erected for the use of the 
 married men and their families. The Frriich portion 
 is two stones hi,i,di, about six hundred feet in length, 
 by forty in depth. Thoy are now vacant, 
 
 From the Artillery Barracks the walls looi)holed 
 and embrasured, extend to the eastward and are 
 pierced l)y Palace and Hope's (ilat<'s, both of 
 which lead to the valley of the St. Charles. Th;i 
 first, Palace Gate, was one of the three original 
 Gates of the City, and through it, a great poi'tion of 
 Montcahns army jjassingin by St. John's and Louis 
 Gates, after its defeat on the plains, went out again, 
 and crossed by tiie Bridge of Boats to the Beauport 
 camp. The Palace, St. .[ohn's and St. Louis gates 
 were reported in such a ruinous condition in 1791, 
 that it became necessary to pull them down succes- 
 sively and rebuild them. The present Palace Gate 
 
■I 
 
— 17 — 
 
 is not nifre than forty years old, and is said to 
 resemble one of the gates ofPompdii. The handsome 
 gate of St. Johns has been ])uilt within a very few 
 years; not tl at the old gate was in ruin but to 
 meet the re(|uireinent of the tunes. St. Louis Gate, 
 for the same reason was wholly removed during the 
 past 3'ear. 
 
 From Pidarc Gato, the wall extends to Hope Gate 
 a distau<^e of three hundred yards. Hope Gate was 
 built in 17-S4; all the a} pronches are strongly pro- 
 tected, niid from its position on the rugged lofty 
 cliff, it is very strong. At Ho])e Gate, the ground 
 which had gradually sloped from the Citadel begins 
 to ascend again, nud the wall is continued from it, 
 to the turning point at Saul t-au-Maf clot, between 
 which and the Parliament House, is the Grand 
 Butter]! (tf twenty h)ur, 82 pounders and lour mor- 
 tars. Til is Ijattery is two hundred feet above the St. 
 liawrence, and from its ])l:itforra as w 11 is from 
 the site of the Parliaiiiont House another magni- 
 ficent prospect is obtained. Immediately under the 
 Parliament House which is built on the cuunuand- 
 ing site of the ancient BiHliops Palace, Avas, the 
 last year, Prescott Gate, protected on either side by 
 ])owei-ful outworks. This gate was built in 1797, 
 while General Pi'escott wis in command, and like 
 St. Louis gate was removed, for the accommodation 
 of the public. From Prescott Gate tlie wall extends 
 to J) 11 rliani Terrace, the rampart or foundation wall 
 of Avhich, was the foundation of the (^^astle of St. 
 Louis. This famed building, founded by Champlain 
 in 1G2.S, had continued to be the residence of all the 
 future Governors of Canada. On 23d January 1834, 
 while occu])ied by Lord Aylmer, it v>'as totally 
 destroyed by fire. It was at one time ho})ed that 
 the Provincial Parliament would take measures for 
 rebuilding it, but this hope was disappointed and 
 the site remained an eye sore, till the present 
 Terrace or Plidform as it is more commonly called. 
 
— 18 — 
 
 was constrncted by order of M. Cliabot fhon Com- 
 missioner of works. Since then Durlinin Terrnec, 
 which is more tlian two huii(h-ed loot Mbove the 
 River, lias formed the favorite ])rom<':'.;idc of all 
 chisses, furnishing also a prosj)ect whi( !i for gran- 
 deur and beauty cannot bo sui'|)assed. [•'I'om this 
 spot the wall runs on the top oi the cliff in a south 
 westerly direction, in front of tlieCSrovernorsGarden, 
 one hundred and eighty yards ; and one hundred 
 and twenty yards further -ou terminates, at the 
 fort of the f/l((ct.<t of Cape Diamond. The highest 
 point of Cape Diamond is slated by Bouchette to 
 be three hundi'ed and foriy five feet. In the lower 
 Governor's (warden, there is a maske<l battery. 
 Havini": now made the circuit of the fortifications, 
 attention is next directed to the sti'iking obelisk in 
 the Governor's Garden, knoAvn as " Wolfe and 
 Montcrdm's Monument" the foundati(^n si one of 
 M'hich was laid by Lord Dalhousie, with imposing 
 ceremonies on Tliursday 1.") November 1S:^7. '' The 
 presence on this occasion "' sjiys Hawkins, " of Mr. 
 James Thompson, then in his !)5tli year added to the 
 deep interest felt in the scene. " Mr. T'hom]ison had 
 been a volunt«;er in the 7Stli Higlilandeis in Wolfes 
 expedition, and was consulted in (\)uebec as an 
 oracle in connexion with it. Tlie monument is 
 from a design b^^ Major Young of the 70th, and cost 
 upwards of .seven hundred pounds. Bi'ing sixty five 
 feet in height, it is a striking object from the River, 
 rising as it does clear from the Garden. It bears 
 tAvo inscriptions; one of them by Dr. J. Charlton 
 Fisher, noted for its truth, and classical purity and 
 beautv, i.s as foUoAvs. 
 
 " Mortem Virtus Communem 
 
 FamaTii Hi.storia, 
 
 Monumentum posteritaa 
 
 Dedit. " 
 
 /rhis beautiful monument interesting in every 
 ^int of view, became so ruinous from neglect that 
 
- 19 — 
 
 every sjU'inL^- it wn-. in (lang'cr oi" tailing. Mr. Le- 
 moliio in hi.s " Xo/rf^ dr vofjaji'." lately |ml)Iished, 
 say.s : " TIil; fnu; moniinient erectefl to Wolfo and 
 Moiitcalni, cii 1^/27 hy Loivl Dalhousie, the resto- 
 ration of whicli wn.sncciivnpHslKHl last October (1.8()l)) 
 in prcsonco ol' Sir N. V. JJelloau anil suite, lii>i 
 Pi'inio Minister the ]l()?;'>rable P. J. O. ('hauveaii 
 and others. " It is only jnst to add that its restora- 
 tion was owini;' to tht;gtiieious and unsehisli etTorts 
 of Mr. Henry Fry, Merchant oC Quebec and 1'' h' 
 Presi:lent of its Board ol' Trade. 
 
 At the upper end of the Terrace, thei*e stnnds an 
 ancient lookinii* buildin^^- known bv^ tlie )nisiK>}aer 
 of the O'd Ciit'i.li'itt'. The first chateau or castle of 
 St. L(;uis, as already stated, Avas founded by Cluini- 
 plain, and wa • two stories In liei^dit. On tlie 2()th 
 April K>:2!s \\\' roof v.; s blown off by a violent 
 gale of wind, and the second story was taken down, 
 as it v/as thon^^lit to V)e too hi;^h. On the fJth May 
 ICi'l^i, (.nianiplain laid the foundation of a new 
 building, which }-I(ii''Li,i.<t considers to have been 
 the original, on\\hich thi^t burnt in IMSI, was coni- 
 ])leted,andsuggests that if th«' foundation walls were 
 cleared away, that in all ]>?-obability, the plate with 
 the inscrij)tion, which ('iiainplain says ho placed 
 under it, would be found. It A\'as in this castle that 
 Fro)i(ciifn- the enoj-gefic' ami chiva'rous governor, 
 hurlt>d defiance at Sii* Wm. Phipp's envoy, in 1000. 
 ( 'harlevoix describes the building in 1720 as lino, 
 with two pavilions by way of wings. The central 
 buildinii' had a beautii'ul callerv or l>alcony extend- 
 ing along the wdiole fVont, overlooking the river. 
 It continued in this state receiving occasional re- 
 pairs and additions till near the close of the century, 
 wIhmi it was found necessary, owing to its ra]>id 
 decav, to build a new residence for the Governor 
 on the opposite side of the s(|nare — the building 
 still in existence. It is curious to note that in 1787, 
 Loj'd Dorchester caused the (rarrcff^ to be linished 
 
— 20 — 
 
 ill a great lurry ill order tliat lie and La<ly Dor- 
 chester inig'lit lodge there. The old chateau, after 
 its abaudomnent tor tlu» " New Binldliuj," as it was 
 at lii'st cp!!ed, was occupietl by officers of (Jovern- 
 luent till 18()i), when Sir James ( .'raig ex])ended ten 
 thousand pounds in adding a thii<l story and put- 
 ting it into complete re])a.ir, when it once more l>e- 
 came the gubernatorial residence. From being thus 
 renovated, it came to bo called, the new, Avhile the 
 oicw became the old chateau, which name it still 
 retains. Inserted in the wall surrounding the yard 
 there may be seen a sculptured stone lately reno- 
 vated and gilded. It bears a Maltese (hoss and the 
 date 1647. Its being there, is thus accounted for by 
 Mr. James Thompson, Senr., in his Journal under 
 date 17th September 17^4 :— " The inincis at the 
 Chateau b) levelling the yard, dug up a large stone 
 from which I havt; d(>scribed the annexed figure. 
 I couM wish it was discovered soon enou'di to lay 
 cons])iciously in the wall of the New liuilding, in 
 order to convey to posterity, the anti(iuity of the 
 Chateau St. Louis. However I got the masons to 
 lay the stone in- the check of the gate now huUdiiuj''' 
 At first Quebec had no barrack accommodation, 
 but the troops had to be V>illeted on the citizens 
 houses; u]) to 17.)9 the only regular barrack, was 
 the Ar(U/.et\'/ which Avas erected by the French 
 before 1750. After the conrpiest and the expulsion 
 of the Jesuits, their Coller/e situated in the centre 
 of the cit}^ facing the great srpiare in front of the 
 Cathedra], was converted into a barrack and has 
 ever since to the pre.<:ent winter, been occui)ied as 
 such. It is now vacant, and it is rumored that it 
 is about to be converted into offices for ihe use of 
 Local Government. At various times the Imperial 
 Government expended ver^^ largo sums in altera- 
 tions and repairs. It is a parallelogram, three stories 
 liigh and strongly built of stone. It is two hundred 
 and twenty four feet in length by two hundred 
 
01 
 
 in bi"ea<lth. Tlio ontmnco to tlio inner square is by 
 a lofty Hieliway iVoni tlie market s'|uare. On the 
 south side is a large yard, orginally the Jesuits 
 gank'n, hut now or hitely use<l as an exereise 
 ground. It is separated i'rom Ann Street by a h)vv 
 wall two hundred yards long. There are no other 
 buildings in eoiuiexion with thti ibrtifieations, 
 worthy ofnieiition in an arehiteetural point of view, 
 but it may be stated that on the upper side of the 
 Phu'c I.y Amies, are the buildings fornu'ly ()ecu})ied 
 by the Commissariat, and in Louis Street the 
 „ offieers quarters" and mess room, all very plain, 
 aneient looking buildings. Thisehapter nuist not 
 be closed without reference to the fact, that th(* 
 great progress made of late in the art of war, es- 
 j)e(ualiy in eonnexicm with attack and defence of 
 ibrtifitid posts, having rendered Quebec assailable 
 ])aiticularly i'rimi PoliiU: Lcnis, the Imperial Oovern- 
 ment commenced in LSiJT the erec^tiu.i of three 
 stroma forts there. No. 2 and l^ have been for some 
 time cwm])leted, and No, 1 almost. They are 
 luioccupied, still sh(4ul(l the tourist be able to spare 
 time, he will be amply repaid by the inspection of 
 fortalices, constructed on tlie principles of modern 
 military science, and will also have an opportunity 
 of seeing nuich charming scenery. 
 
 CHAPTKR III. 
 
 Rel'giojs and Educational Insti- 
 tutions—Hospitals. 
 
 The chief aim of a " Tourists guide " is to ])oint 
 out objects of interest as they now exist, but the 
 past history of Quebec is so peculiarly rich in con- 
 nexion with the subjects of this chaptei*, which 
 are of fcuch vital importance in all ages, the pre- 
 sent as well as the past, that before taking the 
 visitors to what is now to be seen, I propose to 
 
— 22 — 
 
 direct attention to what li:\s been lonjL( past, but 
 which lias stanijicd a deep iiujtivss on the ]>resent. 
 I cannot think that T cuu do tliis better thari by 
 tiie ibllowlni,^ ((notation ir*;ni Jhnrliiis ! "The 
 tirst cstabli.slinient of the ivliiiious coiinnunities of 
 Quebec, lias a peculiar interest; an*' it is dillieult 
 to deternuno which is rn(.r(! vvortin of admiration, 
 the liberality of tlie desig-ii, on the jiart of the 
 founders, or the devot('(hiess and i'earlessness dis- 
 plnyed by those appointed for its execution. The 
 early histoiv of Canada teems, with instan(,'es of 
 the purest relii^'ious fortitude* zeal !ind heioism of 
 young and delicate females, leliutjuishin;^' the com- 
 forts of civilization to }»erfoim the most menial 
 ofhces towards the sick — to disp(!nse at onee the 
 bhissing-s of medical aid to the body, and of reli- 
 gious instruction to the soul of the l)eiughted and 
 wandering savfige. They nnist have been u[)heM 
 by a strong sense ol duly — an overpowering 
 conviction of the utility of thtiir })urposes — a iuil 
 persuasion (jf their eflicacy, bolli towards their 
 own eternal salvaticui. aiid ti^tit of their newly 
 converted flock. Dut for such im[)res.sions, it 
 would have been beyond human naUne to moke 
 the sacrilices which the y/()y>/ /"//<" r.s made, in taking 
 up theii" residence in X.<" Fraucf. Without de- 
 tracting fj'om the calm philosop]n(; deineanof 
 of religion at tiie present day, it is doubti'nl 
 whether any pious j^ersons could be found will.ng 
 to undergo, the fatiguen, uncertjunty and personal 
 danger experienced l>y the iii-.st missionaries of 
 both sexes in Ni'iv FraitCf'.. Regardless of climate, 
 to wdiose horj'ors they were entirely unaccustomed 
 — of penury aiid famine — of danger to tin' person — 
 of death and ninrtyrdom itself — tlie}' pressed onward 
 to the coal to which their relio-ious course was 
 directed — and sust;nned by something more than 
 human fortitude — by divine patience — they suc- 
 ceeded at lenij^th in establishing on a firm foun- 
 
— 23 — 
 
 (latiou tlic JiUiii", aurl tlie faitli of tlioir country 
 ami thoir Ciod I For amMfcioiis sako, lur Iikmv, tor 
 fame — men Iiavo braved daiii'i-r in a lniiidi"t!d H^'litH. 
 until tlu! world l>v coiunioti conscMit Iim.s eii,'vat('(l 
 the suceessi'id tyrant in the rank of si hero among 
 his fellows, but to incur tiio liorrors of savage liie, 
 the risk of torture and even death — in a word, tiio 
 agi)nising suspense and constant anxieties of a 
 missioiiarv, ibr no othci- reward tlian tlnit of self 
 aj)])robatii)n, an<l with no othei su|)|»(i>'t than that 
 of religion — i-eiiuircs (Mnirage and devotion of a 
 higher oi'der, and merits glory of the most en- 
 during chanu^ter. The labours and privations of 
 the lirst religi(jus eonnnunilies, who listablished 
 themaelves even wilhin the Avails of the City, 
 were many — tiieir ])aths were dark, dreary and 
 intricate; but, the bright star of enthusiasm, like 
 tlu; elue of Ariadne, eai'ried them along — they felt 
 that if one glimpse of the sacred light they bore 
 could bo bi'ought down ui)on the benighted souls 
 of those thev wished to saved, their zeal would be 
 am])ly rewarded, and their labimr forgotten." 
 
 Turning to the History of Canada, Ave find it 
 asserted in the ()i'<li nancex that, " the iir.st and priii- 
 ci])al obj( ct of the French C'ohuiy in Canada"' was" the 
 propagition of the f.iii h, and the dilfiision of the 
 Gospel; the glory of God and the (.'hristiaii name." 
 Hence many of the earliest gi-ants were made to 
 religious bodies, and were avowedly bestowed 
 upon them for the purpose of reclaiming the na- " 
 tions from barbarism l)y cdm.'iiting them in the 
 Christian faith. IJu'ler the circumstances, it was 
 (piite natui'ai that the education at first imparted 
 should be strictly religious, and that it should be 
 wholly under the control of the ministers of re- 
 ligion. Among the first who took a deep -irid a(;tive 
 interest in the great and good cause, was Sjo/ddeuie 
 de Chaavirjiuj better known as Madame de La 
 Peltrie, founder and first Lady Superior of the 
 
— 24 -- 
 
 UrsulinoH at Quebec ; ami MoMlre FrancoUdc. La- 
 val, Vicar Apostolic and rirst Bishop, and th(» 
 virtual foundi^- of tlic j,n'eat University which hoars 
 his name. With these j reliniinjiry remarks, I may 
 now venture to <^uide the tourist to the j)vcsent 
 lnstituti(jns. Leaving »SV. J.ouis Uotd and passing 
 down Par/o'ir Sfrcff, we Hoon conu? in sight of an 
 irregular pile of buildings some ancient and some 
 modern, which is the Concent of the Uinullnas. 
 The famous Pere LcJeu}ie,-i\\G friend and confessor 
 of Champlain, had written a lic/ation In KI.S'), which 
 so deei)ly atll'cted Madame de la Pelliie, tluMi a 
 widow, young, beautiful and rich, that incited by 
 religious fervor in behalf of the Indians, she resolvtnl 
 to leave father antl kindred, home and native land, 
 and devote Iku- life and wealth to the work of 
 providing for the education of the young savages 
 of her own sex as well as that of the daughters of 
 the French Colonists in Canada. How faithfully 
 and well she carried out her resolution, is found in 
 her induring exertions from August l(j.S9, the date 
 of her arrival at Quebec, to 1071, when she died 
 aged OS. Her name is embalmed as the gi'eatest 
 benefactress of h(^r adopted country, and the Ursu- 
 line Convent. The first of August HioJ) is ever 
 inemoiable as the day on which Madanin de la 
 Peltrie landed at Queljec, with thi'ee IJrsulines. 
 The day was made a holiday, and the Governor 
 Montmajxnv received them at the head of the 
 troops, and a salute was fired from tlie lort, but 
 such was then the poverty of Quebec, that for 
 some time after their arrival they suffered many 
 privations, wanting even necessary food and clotli- 
 ing. After learning Ahjonquln from ii[i\\e,v LpJcv ne, 
 they commenced their labours by receiving the 
 sick of small })ox, whom they only could have at- 
 tended under a strong feeling of duty. The first 
 Convent, of wood, was built in 1041, two years 
 after their arrival ; it stood in the immediate 
 
— 25 — 
 
 neighbourhood of the present building. In Ifi.lO 
 it was destroyed by firo. The inmates, fourteen 
 in number were kindly received l)y tlic Nuns of 
 Iloft'l JJicii, where they remained for three vvoeks, 
 till the house of Mathinie tie la Peltrie was ready 
 for ther reception. 'J'h(» Convent was rebuilt and 
 was again burnt to tlie ground in 1G8G ; uotliing 
 was saved, and again they were reeeived by the 
 UopltalicveH till a tem])orary Ituilding was pro- 
 vided, in whieli they passed tlie winter. The I'e- 
 building of the Convent was soon eommeneed, and 
 portions of it still stand; it occupies with its 
 gardens and outbuildings, seven acres, in its c \vn 
 Fief of St. Joseph. The Conununity consists of a 
 Superior and upwards of forty ^)>v>/I".s.srr/ Nuns and 
 some novices. The rules are exclusive and the 
 Convent is not oj)en to tin? ])ul)li(', with the ex- 
 ception of tlie Pai'loLV and Chajtel. The Nuns are 
 devoted to the education of girls in the useful 
 and ornamental branches, and themselves produce 
 painting, embroidery and other fancy work, which 
 command high prices and thus augment the 
 common stock. It failed in its original object of 
 educating the; Indian girl, but has for many years 
 furnished the means of atibrding superior education 
 to Canadians both — Fnmch and British — Catholic 
 and Protestant. It still maintains its rank as one 
 of the first Roman Catholic Educational Institutions 
 in the Province, and some Protestants yet avail 
 themselves of the facilities it furnishes — within 
 the past few weeks it has been stated that the 
 present Archbishop Taschereau, has enjoined that 
 for the future profession .shall only be made for //ye 
 years, instead of for life. Much interest attaches to the 
 Convent from its being the burial place of Montcalm. 
 On receiving his mortal wound at the Battle of the 
 Plains, it is said that he was able to ride into the 
 City to the house of a Surgeon named Arnoux the 
 younger, but strange to say no one can say positively 
 
 2 
 
— 2(] — 
 
 vvliere he died. 8oino autliorities say he died in 
 Anioiix's lioiLse, others, in tlie Chatejui St. Louis 
 and others, in liis own house in Moiitadm Terrace, 
 on tlio site of Avhioh now stands the house lately 
 owned hy ]\Iv. Ricliard Vrurtele, but now occu|)ied 
 l)y the Alis.ses jFaehin as a l3oarding and day School 
 — C^aptain John Knox however states in ^is jour- 
 nal, tliat he died, in the General Hospital. Whe- 
 rever he died, tliere is no question of his having 
 been buried in the TIrsulines; it is said his grave 
 was the exea\ation formed by the .bursting of a 
 shell. In tlie Register of the French Cathedral, 
 will be found the Art of Buvlal, from wdiich I 
 translated as follows ; "In tlie year 173}), on the 
 14tli Scot, was buried in the C*hurch of the TIrsu- 
 lines of Quebec, the High and flighty Lord, Louis 
 Joseph Mi'i'tjiiis of Mo)itcal'm, tt'-c, d-c. who died 
 that day iVviiii wounds received in the battle — 
 fortified by the sacraments which lie received with 
 great ])iety and faith. There were ])resent at his 
 l)Ui'ial Mcssire Ilesche, Cugnet and (\jllet, (*anons 
 of the C^athedral, Mr. de Ramzay, commandant and 
 all the ofhcers. 
 
 Signed, Ukschp:, Priest and Canon, 
 Collet, Canon." 
 
 It is worthy of note, that such nnist have been 
 the confusion at the time, that it led to the entry 
 in the Register t»f several names, before Montcalm, 
 of individuals, who had died after and were buried 
 before him. 
 
 Some time about 1830, a marble slab w^as placed 
 to Montcalm's memory in the Ursulines Chapel by 
 Lord Aylnier, (Aovernor in Chief. It bears an 
 inscrijition in French of which the followdng is a 
 translation, " In honor of IMontcahn. Fate deprived 
 him of victoi-\', but recomiiensed him by a glorious 
 death." 
 
 With [)ermissi(>ii of the Cliaplain, the Revd. Mr. 
 
— 27 — 
 
 Leinoine, tlie Cliapel may hi) visited, .nid several 
 tine pictures inspected including A. Mater iJnlorosa 
 by Vandyke ; one by L''. Sucni' ; Restoiit's ])icture 
 of " ('a/Hare of ClwiRtlans bj AffferiiK' Firafes," 
 and two pictures by Chain])iigne, " 2Vie ^"^^aviour at 
 meat in t^lmon't'^ house " and n. Fall Icinjth. portra.H 
 of Christ. 
 
 Some years ai£o, it b('in<'' necessary to make some 
 repairs to the wall, in the neighbourhood of the 
 spot where it was alleged Montcalm was interred, 
 advantage was taken of it to examine the grave 
 which was pointed out by an aged religicuse, who 
 as a girl recollected the interment; the skeleton 
 was found, and the .skull lemoved iind ])laceJ in 
 the custody of the Chajilnin, under a glass shade. 
 By his permission it may be seen, as \l is an object 
 of great interest to all, and a study to the phi eno- 
 loirist. 
 
 Leaving the Chapel and entering GirJ.en Street, 
 we find the Engli.sh Cnthedral a })lain but neat 
 building, occupying the ground on which the Ch>i rch 
 and Convent of the BecolletH formerly stood. The 
 Recollets W(U'c the tirst ecclesiastics who came to 
 Canada. They were lour in number and accom- 
 panied Cham})lain in 1015. They Avere' at first 
 settled at Notre Dame des Anr/cs, where the General 
 Hospital now stands, but in l(>i)() at the suggestion 
 of Bishop St. Valier, and in accordance with their 
 own views, they ceded this property, and received 
 in lieu the lot of land now referred to, on Avhich 
 they erected their Church and Convent in IGOo, 
 which have been described by Charlcroix as^ " A 
 larofc and beautilul Church which iaioht do honor 
 to |V"ersailles. " These buildings were utterly des- 
 troyed by fire in 1790, Jind the order beconung 
 extinct, the site was granted by Covernment for an 
 English Cathedral. Cn levelling some of the old 
 foundations in 1824, two plates were found with 
 inscriptions, reciting, that on 1-lth July 1093 was 
 
— 28-- 
 
 celebrated the Festival of Bona venture in order to 
 commemorate the building of the New Church and 
 Mansion, &c., &c. The present Protestant Cathe- 
 dral, was built by the British Government and 
 consecrated in 1804. A very handsome Communion 
 Service was presented by George the Third. The 
 interior of the building is in keeping with the 
 exterior. It may be mentioned that it contains 
 numerous memorial slabs inserted in its walls, and 
 a monument to the first Bishop Mountain. Below 
 the Altar is enterred the Duke of Richmond, who 
 died on 28 August 1819 from Hydrophobia, caused 
 by the bite of a tame fox. He then filled the office 
 of Governor General. No monument has been 
 erected to his memory. 
 
 A little further on at the east side of the great 
 square, stands the French Cathedral. The first Ca- 
 thedral was built on the present site, and was con- 
 secrated on the 18 July 16G6, under the title of the 
 " Immacitlate Coyiception — Laval was its founder." 
 I find in the Thompson narrative the following 
 entry ; '• July 22. At night there was a consi- 
 derable fire in the Town, caused by a Carcass, 
 ■which burnt the Cathedral, and ten or twelve good 
 houses in its neighbourhood. " Some fine old pic- 
 tures and ancient ornaments, were seriously injured 
 or entirely destroyed. After the cession, the Church 
 was rebuilt as it now appears ; it is of no regular 
 style of architecture, and has an unfinished appea- 
 rance, one of the two towers never having been 
 completed, it is said, from the foundation being 
 insecure. It is two hundred and of sixteen feet in 
 length ,'and one hundred and eight in breadth.lt is cal- 
 culated to contain four thousand persons. Its interior 
 is very superior to the exterior, the Grand Altar 
 at the east end, and the Choir are finely decorated, 
 and there are four small Chapels in the Aisles, in 
 one of which is a beautiful group of statuary. There 
 are some pictures on the walls but they are only 
 
-^ Oi) ^. 
 
 Copies, or works of inferior artists. In the gallery at 
 the west end is the Organ which though fine in 
 tone, is not so rich or powerful as the one in the 
 English Cathedral. To the right of the Altar is a 
 marble Tablet with an inscription to the Memor}' 
 of Bishop Plessis. 
 
 In 1658 it was felt that the Church in Canada 
 required a recognised head, and the choice fellt on 
 Francois Laval of the House of Montmorency. He 
 was connected with Canada in the discharge of his 
 high functions for thirty years, either as Vicar 
 Apostolic or Bishop and under him the religious 
 affairs of the Colony were placed on the systematic 
 footing, on which they have continued to the pie- 
 sent day, with slight modifications. Like Madame 
 Pelterie his name is associated with the inaugura- 
 tion of the education movement, which owing to 
 his munificence and foresight has maintained an 
 influence in the Colony, which has been felt in every 
 phase of its history and which predominates every 
 other at the present day. He did not leave his 
 intentions to be carried out after his death, but 
 devoted his life, his talents and his wealth to what 
 he so ardently determined to accomplish. He was 
 not five years in Canada, when he founded in 16G3 
 the Quebec Semilnary endowing it with his wealth. 
 He attached two conditions to his gift — 1st The 
 maintenance of the Great and Little Seminaries. 
 2nd The gratuitous boarding and education of 
 twelve poor boys. In IGGG, the first Grand Semi- 
 nary was built of wood in the Presbytery garden, 
 and there lodged M. de Laval and a few priests. 
 
 Two years subsequently the Little Seminary was 
 opened in the house of Madame CouU lard. Various 
 buildings of stone were successively erected, increas- 
 ing in magnitude after successive fires. The last 
 fire occurred in 18G5 when about one half of the 
 building facing the Seminary Garden was destroyed, 
 but was rebuilt in 1866 with the addition of a third 
 
story, and at [)i'osonl: tht; mIioIo length oC tlio editicc.-i 
 forming tlio (|iw, Iraiigle is (iSi I'cet. We cannot 
 fancy an^lliing more int(>iTesting than a visit to 
 this ancient, and nniqiio l)nilding. Tlierc is nothing 
 nioi'o calculated to v.uso np tho niemorie.s of tlic 
 past and connect tlicn witli the ])i-e.sent. AVe recall 
 the past in the iiighly poetic language of Park- 
 riiii.u — ''AVIu'ii we awake its departed shades, they 
 rise njx'ii ns from their gi-aves, in strange romantic 
 guise. J\[en steeped in antique learning, pale with 
 tlie close l>i"eath of the Cloister, here spent the noon 
 and evening" of Ihe'iv lives, ruled savaije hordes with 
 a mild ]>aternal sway, and stood serene before the 
 direst shaj) 's of death. Men of courtly natures, heirs 
 to the polish of a far reaching ancestry, here with 
 their dauntless hardihood put to shame the boldest 
 sons of t'.iil." 
 
 But IcL \\^ now visit the Seminary. Turning off 
 from Fob I' Iliac. i>t r^'ct, at the north west corner of 
 the Cathedral on our right, and ])a.ssing the Semi- 
 nary Clia'pel on the lell, vvith its line paintings and 
 other oliJ(H>ts of interest ; we may enter the qua- 
 drangle by the large r :eway, or what is preferable, 
 go into the southern .»ing by the side entry to the 
 corridor, into whi(^h open certain offices; going 
 alorm" this for a short distance, and turnino* at rii^ht 
 angles, we entei" another broad coi'ridoi", eighty 
 paces long, lighted by a succession of windows 
 which pierce the dee[) strong wall on onr left, and 
 having a series of apartments on our I'ight. At the 
 end of this corridor turniiii-' au'ain to the left, at 
 riu-ht anci'k's, we see lujfore us a lone: vista, from 
 whicli ascend and descend stair cases leading up to 
 the pi'ivate appartments of the gentlemen of the 
 SeminaiT, or down to the kitchens, &c. No such 
 building could be seen any where save in Quebec, 
 or in some' a.iicient provincial town in Normandy. 
 Vou ask for on<- of the gentlemen, and you are 
 introduced t«» his modest apartment, where you lind 
 
31 — 
 
 him ill liis soutane, witli all the polish, learning 
 and hojfhomle of the iiin(3teenth century. He cour- 
 tcously sliows yon over tlie buil(liii;j;', wliei-e ytu 
 will see much more than I have deseribed. When 
 you are pointed out the portrait of Lavnl, you may 
 not be (lelio'lited with Ids stern and ratlicr ii nine- 
 possessing features, but wlien V(»u relleet tliat this 
 man was chaste and sober, that lie devoteil his life 
 and fortune to the good of his kind; that in an 
 ignorant and immoral age, ho strove nobly f<-)r a 
 higher moralit}'. The rugged lines become smooth, 
 the harsh and foi'bidding features bc^'ome lofty and 
 grand, and you bow in sjyirit befoie the great bene- 
 factor of his race. If you have time to stay, you 
 will be told with becoming p»rid( , that though 
 during the two centuries of its (existence, the Semi- 
 nary suffered at various times tVom the wars, which 
 desolated the country, and from the sieges which 
 the city underwent, and from the great fires of 
 1701, 1705 and 1<SG5, yet from the abi'ity and eco- 
 nomy with which its ati'airs have been managed, it 
 has ris"n su]H!rior to each di.saster, maintaine<l it.s 
 efHcieiicy, and even made new Mc;[uisitions of pro- 
 perty. You will be told that in 1704-, directors, 
 pupils, teachers, in short all connected with the 
 institution, only amounted to fifty four, and that 
 there was no increase for the next half century, 
 that in 1810, the number was only 1110, while 
 now it exceeds torn' hundird, exclusive of the 
 students of Ltival University. The Seminars con- 
 sists of the Grand and Little Seminary— ^'ach 
 with its sl^atf of professors. The Grand Seminary is 
 [)urely Theological ; the Little, — Literary and Scien- 
 tific. The course in the Little Seminary extends 
 over nine years; in the two lower classes the ]nipils 
 are taught exclusively English and French. J>oar- 
 ders pay .^1.50 per annum exclusive of washing, 
 drawing and music. Exter)ix or Day pupils, Sl-5 
 per month. Protestants may atteiul all the classes 
 
. .. i\'> 
 
 without Ix'ing rei[uircd to In' present at any of tlif 
 Religious servicos in the CliapG], bntjo'm in mor- 
 ning and evening })rnyers at Sehool. 
 
 With the progress of the Country, and from tlu' 
 judgment originally desjtlaycd in the selection of 
 lands and tlie purchase and erection of buildings, 
 the proportie.-^ of the Seminary have increaseil 
 enormously in value, and in IS52 the C^orporation 
 of the Quebi'c Seminary, found itself in position to 
 fulfil the evident design of the illustrious Hrstbishop, 
 and laid the foundation of Laval Unlirrsitij, a 
 building whose huge front, possessiiig no Architec- 
 tural beauty, but occupying one of the most pro- 
 minent sites in the City, attracts the attention of 
 all who approach it from the sea, an(l who if stran- 
 gers are ai)t to su))})ose that it is one oi' the barracks. 
 It is stated that the construction of this euorinous 
 ])ile cost no less than !?238,7S7. 72, but this great 
 outlay wa.s met by the saving of the Coi-poration, 
 loans from the Fabrique, &c. It has a Royal (Charter, 
 under which have l:)een created fom- Fafulties — 
 Theology, Law, Medicine and Arts. The Profes.sors 
 are men of average, and son^e of distinguished 
 ability. We have described the building itself as 
 a huge pile, having no achitectural pretentions, but 
 when you enter it, you find that no ])ains havi^ 
 been spared, and no expense considered in making 
 its interior e(|ual to the rerpiirements of the age — 
 Lofty halls, convenient private rooms for tiie Pro- 
 fessors, magnificent stair cases, lecture rooms filled 
 with all necessary apjiliances, indicate that 
 nothing has been left undone, that could promote 
 the comfort and convenience of Professors and 
 Students. The convocation room is spacious and 
 handsome and the museums for extent and arrange- 
 ment are not surpassed by any thing in the Do- 
 minion. The vast and elegantly filled library 
 contains 45,000 volumes in every department of 
 literature and science ; some very rare and a few 
 unique. 
 
— 83 — 
 
 This gToafc ('ducatioiial ostablismcnfc from its coni- 
 manding iiiHuou^e, secured to it by its wealth, ar.d 
 the enlightened efforts it has made to secm'e to Canar 
 dians an educaticm in accordance with the advanced 
 and ever advancing views of the age, must always 
 exert a great and [ believe benefical inHuence on 
 the life of Canada. But that must be tlirough the 
 Franco-Canadian race, foi- tliough it possesses 
 all the advantages jiointed out, and opposes no 
 obstacles to the Ens-'lish si)eakinLr and Protestant 
 population, still from the sim[)l(! fact that four fifths 
 of our people speak the Ficnch language, education 
 must be imparted in that language, and the youth of 
 others races, must on that account (t\)ne, be de- 
 barred from ])artici[)ation in the benefits it holds 
 out. But all who can ap))reciate the great ad- 
 vantages that How from being surrounded by an 
 educated, instead of an ignora.nt community, cannot 
 feel too thankful that (^.uebec possesses such an 
 Institution as the great University of Laval. 
 
 Returning by the way we entered the Seminaiy, 
 we find immediately in connexion with it, the 
 Chapel. It contains some of the finest pictures on 
 the continent; among them The fligld of Joticpli, io 
 E(jypt, by J. Vanloo — The 'wl.se moi adoring the 
 Saviour, by Bourien — The Saviours sepulchre and 
 liLtermeiif, by Hutu — The Asceusion, the day of 
 Pentecost and >S7. Jerome writing, l)y the brothers 
 Champagne — The Trance of St. xintliony by D. 
 Avignes k., &^c.. There are also a number of relics 
 of interest to the llonian Catholic Church. 
 
 The Jesuits College. 
 
 This building lias been already described under 
 the head of, the " Jesuits Barracks,'' but it is pro- 
 l)er to say here, that it is the oldest edifice in 
 Quebec. The first College was built in 1G35 and 
 burnt down in 1040. The present dates from 1046, 
 
— 34— . 
 
 and IVoiii it isbiu'd tliuse (liuintless soldiers of the 
 cross, who devoted themselves to the propagation 
 of the (Miristiaii faith from the St. Lawrence to 
 the Missisippi. — from " I cy Gas])e to the Pacific." 
 Tn T7<U the order w.is abolished by the King of 
 France, but ])revious to this, General Murray had 
 tiken possession of the (JoUege, in a very summary 
 way. H'3 thus records it in his journal, under date 
 1 4th November 175!). ''As I found no j)lace so 
 proj er as the Jesuits College to lodge the pro- 
 visions; that the Fathers are but few in number, 
 and the society being in general remarkal)le for 
 intrigue; 1 acquainted them of the necessity I was 
 undei- to take pjssession of the whole building, 
 and gave theni leave to de})avt wlien they pleased." 
 The last of the Jesuits, Pci'p Canoi died in ISOO, 
 when til' i^roperty of the order lapsed to the 
 Crown. 
 
 Th9 Hotel Dieu. 
 
 Th9 Dac!iMs of D'Aguilloii was the foundress of 
 this Hosj)ital, and soma where about 1G37 she 
 obtained from the " Cjmnany of Merchants," a con- 
 cession of tli:; Fief Sb. Marie tlien waste lands, and 
 twelve acres of Ian 1 within the ('ity, on which the 
 Hospital now stands near the Palace Gate. The 
 Hopltnl'c'/r-^ personally aided the workman, and the 
 Ch i])L'l t'wis completed and consecrated 16 March 
 IGlfj. — Tii'3 hrst Hospital was of wood; the foun- 
 dafcio.i of one of stone was laid by the Governor 
 de Lau/^on on 15 Oct : 10o4<; a portion of this 
 builrling still remains and is occupied as the female 
 wai'd. [n 1G;)6 great additions were made and it 
 gradually assumed its present appearance. Medical 
 attendance by leading physicians of the City and 
 delicate attendance by the Religious Community 
 are gratuitously provided for the poor without 
 distinction. The community Consists of a Superior, 
 thirty three nuns, (fcc. 
 
— nn — 
 The General Hospital. 
 
 Is situated in tlio valley of* the St. diaries alxdit 
 a mile from the Uj)])er Town, neai' the s|»(»t ulieiv 
 Jan({ne.s Cartier passed his first wintei'. It was 
 founded by Monseiguior dt; Vallier, second hishop 
 of Quebec, as an Asylum for invalids and persons 
 permanently affected with disease, and C/iarlet'olx 
 describes it as " the finest house in all Tanada, and 
 would be no disparagement to our largest Cities in 
 France." The Bi.shop ex})ended a hundred thousand 
 crowns in buildings, furniture &lv., k. 'J'he (Jeneral 
 Hospital is a nunnery governed by a Su])eri(>r, 
 with forty five nuns and soiue novices ar.d Postul- 
 ants. It is an extensive, i)lain but pleasing 
 building and seen to adv^antage from the St. Foy 
 road. It ran great risk in the awful fiie ot iSGii, and 
 was saved mainly through the exertions of Lieut. 
 Henry S. Baines, Royal Artillery, who received 
 such serious injury from the explosion of a barrel 
 of gunpowder, that he died in the Convent a few 
 days afterwards. The Convent of " Saijirn Grlncs" 
 or Grey Nuns is a handsonu' building over looking 
 the Valley, immediately without St. John's Gate. It 
 shows to most advantage from the B(;auport I'oad. 
 It was founded in 18-48 by Mgr. Turgeon. Tin; 
 Sisters of Charity are in number sixty six, with 
 twenty-four novices, and give shelter to one hundi-ed 
 and thirty six orphans and infirm persons. They 
 also give instruction to upwards of seven Imndred 
 female children, French and English, about two 
 thirds of whom pay ten cents per month. It 
 has small grants from the Government and thi; 
 School Commissioners, but about $l:2,0l)() have to be 
 provided annually by the labours of the sistei-s. 
 
 The Asylum of the Good Shepherd. 
 
 Was founded in 1850 and does for the poor of St. 
 Louis Ward, what the preceding institution does 
 
— 30 — 
 
 for St. Johns. There arc soventy four sLster.s and 19 
 novices ; botwoeri four and iivo hun(b*ed young girls 
 receive education, but in addition, tliere ari^ in the 
 Asyhnn eiglity nine ))eintt'uts, and about thirty 
 young girls are in the Relbnnatory. 
 
 Having niontioneil all tiie (Jatholie institutions 
 within the ( *ity worthy of notice ; it becomes ne- 
 cessary to idlude to the Protestant. The (^ithedral 
 has been alrendy described, in addition to it, there 
 are in connexion with theCMiuivh of Kngland, xSViyt'd/."* 
 Chapel, lately used by the Military — *SV. MaftlicuK^, 
 in John Street without, and Hi(ih,1 Petri's, in St. 
 Rochs. 
 
 St. Andrews Church. 
 
 It is saiJ that /i minister of the Kirk of Scotland 
 has officiated in Quebec ever since the concpiest, 
 but it is cei'tain thjit for a time the meinbers of 
 that Church occui)ied as a place of worship an 
 apartment in the Jesuits Barrack — from 1707 to 
 1807, when Col. Brock requested then to mtwe, the 
 room being required for the accommodation of the 
 troops. In 18()S Sii- James Craig granted a lot of 
 ground in St. A.\\\\e Street for the erecti;)n ot a 
 building and in 18()J) the first Church was built. In 
 1821 Lord Dalhousie gi-aiited an additional piece of 
 ground and the enlargement of the Church, as it at 
 present exists, was completed in 1824. It is a very 
 plain building and certainly not worthy of so 
 respectable a body. • 
 
 The Wesleyan Church. 
 
 Is not far from St. Andrews and both as to 
 exterior and interior would be a credit to any city. 
 
— 37 — 
 
 Chalmers Church. 
 
 In connexion with tiic free Church of ScoUand, 
 is a very handsome edifice, witli a fine well pro- 
 portioned spire and is situated immediately under 
 the r/lacifi in St. Ursule Street. The Congi'egational 
 Church, in Palace Street is a neat building, and 
 adjoins St.Pafrich'H Church, used by the Irish lloman 
 Catholics — The Baptist Church is a small unpre- 
 tendini^ building near the Artillery Barracks. 
 
 The public educational institutions of the Pro- 
 testants are only two in number The High School, 
 and Morrin College. The first has been in existence 
 for about half a century, and has been the means of 
 providing a very su[)erior and practical education 
 to Protestants of every denomination, as well as to 
 not a few Catholics — The New Buildinor which is 
 well ada])ted for the purposes of modern education 
 is situated at the foot of the (jlacis in St. Denis 
 Street. It is at present in a very satisfactoi*y con- 
 dition. 
 
 Morrin College. 
 
 Is a handsome building though formerly the Jail 
 — It has a handsome well proportioned Grecian front, 
 and the interior is admirably arranged for the pur- 
 poses for which it is intended — Morrin College was 
 endowed by its founder Dr Morrin as a Presby- 
 terian College, and the Principal and Governors are 
 all Presbyterian. Nevertheless it has been con- 
 ducted with such liberality, that no one could 
 suppose that it was connected exclusively with any 
 Church. Yet there can be no doubt that the exclu- 
 siveness of its charter has prevented it recieving that 
 support from other protestant bodies, which might 
 have been hoped for. It has however though only a 
 few years in existence sent out scholars that would 
 do credit to any university, and has had the honor 
 
— ns — 
 
 to .secure n GIJ hrifft .soholarshi]) in the ])ers()ii of 
 Olio of its students — ^li". McKeiizio a native of 
 Queljec and an cleve of tlie lii^^li Scliool. I ciinnot 
 but say in concluding' this chajiter tl»at the Protes- 
 tants of Quebec nii^dit with i^n-eat advant.iii;'e take a 
 lesson in liberality and zeal, iVoni their Roman 
 Catholic fellow citizens, in matters iA' education. 
 
 CIIAPTEU IV. 
 
 There are still a few things to.be seen by the tou- 
 ri.st, so I will take him again from his hotel and j)as- 
 sint; thiouj^h IHaca d'Annef^, biiuLf him to the- Post 
 Office now building at the top of the stairs leading 
 to Mountain Hill. — This handsome building is at 
 present c<jmpletely hid, being crowded on by (dd 
 and uns«'endy houses and bordered by two narrow 
 streets. We walk into Jiuade Street and taking our 
 stand at Mr. iroliiwell's Army Stationery Di^pot, 
 and looking to the north front of the Post ( Xiice, 
 we ob.serve what is known as the CJuen d\)i' or 
 Golden Dosf, to Avhich an interestiuLr IcGfend at- 
 taches. It was formerly inserted in the front of a 
 house which till lately occupied the site of the 
 present Post OlHce, and which was Iniilt by Mod. 
 Philibert a merchant of Quebec in the time of the 
 Intendant Big(Jt. The story goes that M. Philibert 
 and Bigot were on bad terms, and the formei" 
 feeling that he could not hope or seek foi* redress 
 from his enemy, unwisely jjlaced the image of a dog 
 knawing a bone in the front of his house with the 
 
 following lines beneath. 
 
 '* Je suis un Chion qui rongo I'os 
 En rongeant je prond mou rcpoa — 
 Un temps viendra, qui n'e.st pas vcnu — 
 Que je inorderaijqui m'aura niordu." 
 
 " I am a I)og knawing a bone 
 While I knaw I take my repose 
 The time will come, though not yet 
 When 1 Avill bite him, who now bites me." 
 
— :}}) — 
 
 Mr. Bi«,'(»t (•(nil(l not iiiisiiii'lt'istjiiHl this, and Mr. 
 Philil)f!i't Jis tlir )(!\v;ir<l of liis verso, wliich may 
 \k' siiid to li.'ivi; contaiiuHl luoiu truth than pootry, 
 rnnoivcd throiiuh his back, as lie was doscendin'^ 
 Moiiiitaui Hill, the Hword of ail assassin, an officer 
 in tlie {garrison. T\ui nmrderor was permitted to 
 csi'fii»e Ix'iii^r traiisl'erred to a regiment in the East 
 Fudics, wher(» he was followed by the brother 
 of thf inni'dt'i'cd man. Tiu> ])arties met on the 
 street in J'ondicherry, (h'ew tlieir swords, and after 
 a severe eonlliet tlie a.ssassin fell by th(3 hand of 
 the avenger of his brothers blood. Doubt lias been 
 thrown over the truth of th(» le<xend, but it is <dvcn 
 as most generally received. 
 
 Passing down the steps an<l along the stoop 
 Mountain Street, wo remark the great and benefioal 
 cliangi! etlected by the; I'emoval of Pre.scott gate, 
 and reaching Chani[»lain steps and descending, near 
 the foot we came to a u'J'JitiMijf in connexion with a 
 vault opened by the superintendent of the water- 
 works, ill LS.jG ill w hicli it is alleged the bones of 
 Chamidain were found and were subsequently re- 
 moved to the Catlieclral. L'Abbes Casgrain and 
 Laverdiei'e who took much tiouble to investigate 
 the matter, have no doubt thiit the vault is that of 
 C'hamjdain Clu4)el where he was buried. Should 
 this be so, as there is every reason to believe, what 
 a lesson does it tench (jf the vanity of every thing 
 human — In the City which lie had founded and 
 fostei(!(l the toiab of thegrc.it pro})agan(Hst, "was 
 for centuries forii'otten, and sLranijjers and heretics 
 daily passed over his ashes, and when the discovery 
 was accideutly made, no step was taken to mark 
 the spot and jtrcserve the memory. 
 
 Notre Dame des Yictoires. 
 
 stands in the square or market jilace in the 
 Lower Town, and is an object of much interest, not 
 
— 40 — 
 
 only on account of its antiquity, but the events 
 from which it derived its name. It was built pre- 
 viously to 1690, but in that year, in order to com- 
 memorate the repulse of Sir Wm. Phipps, the Fete 
 of Notre Dame de la Victolre was established to be 
 annually celebrated on the 7th October, and on the 
 dispersion and shipwreck of the English feet in 
 1711, the Church to commemorate both events gave 
 it the name " Notre Dame ties Vlctolres. " In 1759 
 it was set on fire by Wolfes batteries at Pointe 
 Levis, Mud destroyed. The Church as it now is, is a 
 plain building, and being the only French Church 
 in the Lower Town, is much frequented. 
 
 Ascending Mountain Hill again, immediately 
 opposite where Prescott Gate stood, we observe the 
 Parliament House, a neat building of white brick, 
 occupying the site of the original Bishop's Palace 
 — On the burning of the handsome Parliament 
 House which preceded it, the present building was 
 erected for a Post Office, but before completion was 
 fitted up temporally for the Canadian Parliament, 
 which sat there till the completion of the buildings 
 at Ottawa. After'confederation, it was handed over 
 to the Local Government wlioses purposes it 
 answers well — The h.dls of the Legislative Council 
 and Assembly are very handsome rooms, much 
 handsomer than the exterior of the building would 
 lead one to suppose — The Library is also a fine room 
 commanding a very grand prospect, but as yet con- 
 tains very few books. 
 
 Opposite the Parliament House but retired from 
 the street, stands the Bishop's Palace, a handsome 
 and substantial building. 
 
 There are other buildings which strike the eye of 
 the visitor. In the Lower Town, the Custom House. 
 In St. Rochs, the Convent of the Congregation de 
 Notre Dame and the great Church of St. Rochs — 
 On the bank of St. Charles, the Marine Hospital. 
 On the St. Foy road is the Finlay Asylum under 
 
— 41- 
 
 the control of the Church of England. On the St. 
 Louis road, we first approach the " Canada Militaiy 
 Asylum " till lately used as an asylum for the 
 widows and orphans of the soldiers of the British 
 army serving in Canada, Since the withdrawal of 
 the troops, it has been closed. It is a large and 
 comfortable building of the mediaeval style of 
 architecture, but from the color of the stone with 
 which it is built, it has a dark and gloomy ap- 
 pearance. But as it is well suited for an asylum, 
 it is to be hoped that some of our wealthy mer- 
 cliants may open their hearts, and purchase it and 
 endow it as an Asylum for Protestant old men and 
 boys. 
 
 A little further on, on the opposite side of the 
 corner of de Salaberry Street, is St. Bridget Asy- 
 lum, a most deserving institution, intended as it is 
 for the support of a great many old women and 
 boys and girls of St. Patrick's Congregation. Near 
 it on the opposite side of the road, is a very hand- 
 some modern building of white brick, the Ladies 
 Protestant Home, an admirably conducted institu- 
 tion, managed by a committee of Ladies, and af- 
 foT-ding an Asylum for about seventy old women 
 and young girls, who there find a home in every 
 sense of the word. — The three institutions just 
 mentioned, receive only nominal grants from the 
 Legislature, and prove conclusively how much good 
 can be effected by well conducted voluntary effort. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Scenery and Historical Associa- 
 tions- 
 There is no stand point in the City, from which 
 a prospect, beautiful and grand may not be obtained. 
 From the Citadel, from Durham Terrace, from the 
 Grand Battery and the St. Foy road, there are 
 equally fine though varied views. But this is not 
 
_42 — 
 
 all, from almost every street in the Ujipcr Town 
 looking north, there appears, as it were in a frame, 
 a lands cape by the Grent Master. Ii is usnal 
 however for the stranger to sei'k a nioi c intimate 
 accjuaintanee with the more distaiii pruspecits, 
 associated as several of them are, witli Iiistorieal 
 incidents. Amonij; these are tlie Falls of Mont- 
 morenci, Cliarlesbonrg, Indian or la .leuue Lorette, 
 St. Foy and Cap Kouge. 
 
 The Falls of Montmor^.ncL 
 
 There are alwavs a number of vehicles of all sorts, 
 from the simple calcclio. of old Normandy, to the 
 handsome two horsed modern Cab, to Ik; I'ound at 
 St. Louis Hotel, at all hohrs ; but the tourist had 
 better apply to the Clerk, and say what he wishes, 
 and he will soon be supplied. — Taking any vehicle 
 3'ou may fancy, you })ass out at Palace Cate, .and 
 along by the site of the Intendants Palace, which 
 was de.:5troyed by the tire from the city during the 
 seige of 1775, in order to drive out the American 
 Sharp Shooters, who under protection of it, were 
 giving the besieged much annoyance. — It has been 
 used till lately as the Government wood Yard. 
 Passinfj over Dochester Bridire, there is a view of 
 the Marine Hospital, on the left. Proceeding on- 
 wards you pass along the ground occu])ied by Mont- 
 calm's intrenchments, which extended from the 
 St. Charles to the Falls. Beau])ort Lunatic Asylum 
 is til.', first object that attracts atttmtion. This use- 
 ful instituLion owes its existence to \)\'. James Dou- 
 glas, who resides at his beautiful villa( Ilenalla, in the 
 inunediate neighbourho(xl of the Asylum. Dr. Dou- 
 glas some years ago ceased to ha\'e any connec- 
 tion witli the Asylum, and has been described by 
 an English visitor, as " a retired Physician, who 
 had been in Egypt and kept a munnny." Many can 
 attest to the fine collection of Egyptian curiosities 
 
™ if] — 
 
 and ;iiitiquities coiitniued hi liis museum and to 
 
 fiu'^ })aiiitiiigs uud statuary. The grounds which are 
 
 exli'nsive are laid off witli uuu;h taste, A littlo 
 
 f'urthi.ir on, tlie pretty vilhige t>f Beauport is 
 
 r<iachod, remarkabio ioi' its tine Cluu'cli. — Seven 
 
 miles from Dorchester Bridge are the Falls, close to 
 
 which is lltiJiJlma.nd IToid^p, now in possession of 
 
 a merchant Mi'. 0. B. Hall, but formei'ly of the 
 
 Duke of Kent. jThere an? various points from 
 
 \Thich the Falls mav In; viewed. — First from the 
 
 stand in the unmediato nei<jl>(nu'hood of Mr. Halls 
 
 ILuise, next from the shore below, and thirdly from 
 
 the ()])posite side, where not only a grand view of 
 
 the Falls is had, l>ut of the village of Beauport 
 
 and tlie City of (Quebec also. The Falls are by 
 
 some said to be two hundred and forty by others 
 
 two hundred and seventy feet hiij'h — 0?ie hundred 
 
 teet hi'dier than Niairara-^lmmediatoly l»eh)W tln^ 
 
 Falls, stand tlie towers of a su.s})ension bridge which 
 
 Nvasbuiltnearly twenty veai's au'e, andwhiehfell sf»on 
 
 aftei- its t'ompletion, involving in its destruction, a 
 
 /if/l>U<inl, h'iH \v\t'o and child who were ' crossing at 
 
 the time, in his ci)untry cart — no attempt has since 
 
 l>een made at rebuilding, and the towers stand as 
 
 UKjuuments of this fatal disaster. About a mile 
 
 above the Falls, the Natural Steps, begin. The 
 
 .Montmorenci is here contracted to the nari'owest 
 
 j)ossible limits, and rushes along with a very swift 
 
 current. Formerly it had been of considerable width, 
 
 lait from the nature of the strata forming its banks 
 
 and bed, it has gradually worn a way successive 
 
 ])ortions of its bed, and as each stra,tum was worn 
 
 throui,di, contractijiii' its banks, leavinir as indica- 
 
 tions of what it had been, a succession of Natural 
 
 Steps of nnerpial breadth and height. I would 
 
 strongly reconunend tliat the visiter should not lose 
 
 the o))portunity of viewing the stej)s. From them 
 
 the Botanist and Geologist may take lessons, and 
 
 the simple lover oi' r.;>ture will see much to elevate 
 
— 44 — 
 
 Ills understanding — From the steep rock wall, the 
 AcqalUgia Canadeyif^is or Columbine, nods grace- 
 fully, and under his feet he may gather the Cam- 
 jKtnula RotundifoUa or Blue Bell of Scotland, and 
 all the varities of Trillia, in their season — The 
 Geologist may secure good specimens of Trilobites. 
 On the Eastern Bank immediately below the Fall 
 Wolfe landed a portion of his army in 1759 and 
 occupied it tor some time as a camp. On the 
 western side, fit what are called Beau port 
 Flats, he made his attack on Montcalm's intrenched 
 camp, on 31th July, which terminated so disas- 
 trously, and produced such despondency in that 
 young Commander, as to cause a fever and it is 
 said nearly led to the embarkation of the army, 
 and the abandonment of the Compaign — The re- 
 turji to Quebec is very enjoyable, as a succession of 
 fine views is had along the whole drive. 
 
 Indian Lorette. 
 
 May be don^, either alone, or in connexion with 
 the Lake St. Charles. If conjoined with the latter, 
 the City must be left at G A. M. Passing again out 
 by the Palace Gate, and turning this time to the 
 left, Ave pass along the little River Road and at 
 nine miles distance reach the village. The inha- 
 bitants are part of the remnant of the once power- 
 ful Huron nation. In the early wars between the 
 French and English settlers, the Huron fought for 
 France. The few who remain are not of pure blood, 
 having freely mingled with the pale faces, but they 
 are quiet and inoffensive — One of them has been 
 lately educated at the Seminary and ordained to 
 the Priesthood — the first we believe in the history 
 of the Colony. The chief source of maintenance 
 is the chase, and the manufacture of snow shoes, 
 moccasins, and embroidery at which the squaws are 
 very adept. It is stated in " Quebec and its en- 
 
— 4o — 
 
 virons" published in 1831, by Thos. Cary & Co. 
 and long out of print that " Madame Kostka says 
 that the first inhabitant of the village, a man of 
 pure Huron blood, died there forty six years ago, at 
 the age of ninety seven," so that Lorette is now 192 
 years old. Chai'levoix gives an interesting account 
 of the village and Church of his day, and says : 
 " Nothing can be more affecting than to hear them 
 sing in two choirs, the men on one side, and the 
 women on the other, the prayers and hymns of their 
 Church in their own language," but he adds ; "' We 
 are here surrounded with the vastest woods in the 
 world ; in all aj^poarance they are as ancient as the 
 world itself and never were planted by the hand of 
 man." The best view of the Fall is from the left 
 bank, where it is in the foreground, with the 
 (^liurch and village behind. The view from the 
 Church is very fine — Some amusement it afforded 
 by the Indian boys, who eagerly take the oppor- 
 tunity of the visit of strangers to show their skill 
 in archery. It is recommended that the return 
 home should be by the upper road, by Charlesbourg. 
 No more magnificent views can be found any- 
 where than along the whole drive — Should the 
 tourist extend his drive to Lake St. Charles, he 
 will liave an opportunity of seeing a very pictures- 
 que sheet of water, though not considered by many 
 as equal in beauty to its rival Beauport, to which 
 we would I'ecommand another day to be devoted. 
 
 Cap Rouge. 
 
 There can be no doubt that the lofty i)ro- 
 raontory on which Quebec stands, at one time, 
 formed the eastern extremity of an island of which 
 Cap Rouge, nine miles distant was the western 
 termination, and that the north channel of the St. 
 Lawrence is indicated by the valley of the St. 
 Charles. On this account alone Cap Rouge would 
 
— 40 ~ 
 
 be wortliy of a visit, as thiM'o is imicli liiu; scenery, 
 and some liiindsomo rusidonces to bo soon along 
 the road. But C.ii\) Kongo has a great reminis- 
 cence in connexion with Jacques ( Wtier, who 
 wintered here in 1541. Tlio fort is alleged to have 
 been at the very highest point of the Cape, a shoi't 
 distance from a farmer residence of the late M. 
 Henry Atkin.son. Montcahn established a po.^t 
 there also in 1759 to prevent tlic landing of Wol tr, 
 and Murray did likewise in 1700 and thereby com- 
 ])elled de Levis to land his stores and artillery at 
 Pointe-aax-Tremblcs'. On returning to Quebec, it 
 is recommended to turn off at St. Albans and 
 crossing to St. Foy Church, reach the City by^St. 
 Foy rond. From the cross road, the views nvH at 
 least equal to anything hitherto described. 
 
 Shoukl time permit, excursions may be made t( 
 the Falls of the CJiaudierc, to the Island of Orleans, 
 and to the Falls and Cha]iel of St. Amies. I have 
 however described the points of interest most ac- 
 cessible and which would be most likely prt^fei'red 
 by tlie ordinary tourist, to whom time is some; 
 times more than money — What I have written is 
 very far from complete, but I hoj)C is calculated to 
 be a guide to the stranger, and awaken ^ some 
 fuithcr interest in old Staddcona.