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Las diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthcde. rata elure, a J IX 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^t-iAM-„~eJ/u^^ cs^l^ m # fW ONOtB THf. roMMANIJ Of I ^ m I TO ME SOl'RCKi Of THr MrSSt I -I, ACROSS THE ROCKr MOUNTAINS, DOWN THE COLUMSrA RIVia TO THE PACIFIC IN 1 804-6 4 kE PRINT of THE EDITION OF 1B14 TO .'rjilClJ .-1 1.1 THE MEMBERS OF THE EXFEDIlloN CONTRIBUTED WITH MAPS IN T H R K fi V O L U M R 3 VOL r. George N. Mr»ning h Company, liiiiiied To RON 10 1 #• ^ ■'/ ■' h-^y^^ ''f HisroRY or THE KXP EDITION ONOBR THE COMMAND Or CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARK TO THE SOURCKS or THE MISSOURI, ACROS^i THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, DOWN THE COLUMBIA RIVER TO THE PACIFIC IN 1804-6 j4 reprint of the edition of 1814 TO H^HICH ALL THE MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION CONTRIBUTED WITH MAPS IN THREE VOLUMES VOL. I. Cant Militia & Defence \ LIBRARY George N. Morang & Company, Limited TORONTO 32oi Preface. In presenting these volumes to the public, the editor owes equally to himself and to others, to state the circumstances which have preceded the publication, and to explain his own share in com- piling them. It was the original design of captain Lewis to have been himself the editor of his own travels, and he was on his way towards Philadelphia for that purpose when his sudden death frustrate these intentions. After a considerable and un- avoidable delay, the papers connected with the expedition v/ere deposited with another gentle- man, who, in order to render the lapse of time as little injurious as possible, proceeded immediately to collect and investigate all the materials within his reach. Of the incidents of each day during the expedi- tion, a minute journal was kept by captain Lewis or captain Clark, and sometimes by hotu, hich wsiB afterwards revised and enlarged at the aiffer- e;it periods of leisure which occurred on the route. These were carefully perused in conjunction with captain Clark himself, who was able from his own recollection of the journey, as well as from a constant residence in Louisiana since his return, to supply a great mass of explanations, and much additional information with regard to part of the route which has been more recently explored. Be- sides these, recourse was had to the manuscript journals kept by two of the Serjeants, one of which, the least minute and valuable, has already been published. That nothing might be wanting rUEFACR. to the accuracy of theHo details, a very intellifi^ent and active inoiiibcr oftlie party, Mr. (Jeor^e Shan- non, wan Hcnt to contribute wliatever hin memory might add to thin accumulated fund of inl'orma- tion. From these copiouH materials the narrative was sketched »iearly in its present form, when other pursuits diverted the attention of the writer, and compelled him to transfer his manuscript, in its unlinished state, with all the documents connected with it, to the present editor, to prepare them for the press and superintend the publication. That he may not seem to arrogate any thing from the exertions of others, he should therefore state that, although the whole work was thus submitted to his entire discretion, he found but little to change, and that his labour has been princii)ally confined to revising the manuscript) comparing it with the original papers, and inserting such additional mat- ter as appears to have been intentionally deferred by the writer till the period of a more mature revisal. These circumstances, which would other- wise be indifferent to the public, are mentioned merely to account ibr imperfections, which are in some degree inseparable from any book of travels not written by the traveller. In a work of pure description indeed, like the present, where the incidents themselves are the sole objects of attrac- tion, the part of an editor is necessarily subordi- nate, nor can his humble pretensions aspire be- yond the merit of rigid adherence to facts as they are stated to him. This has been ,ery diligently attempted, and for this, in its full extent, the edi- tor deems himself responsible. The present volumes, it will be perceived, com- prise only the narrative of the journey. Those parts of the work which relate to the various vi PREFACE. objectH of natural history, observed or collected during the journey, as well as the alphabets of the Indian languages, are in the hands of professor Barton, and will, it is understood, shortly appear. To give still further interest to the work, the editor addressed a letter to Mr. Jefferson, request- ing some authentic memoirs of captain Lewis. For the very curious and valuable informa^ an contained in his answer, the public, as well as the editor himself, owe great obligations to the polite- ness and knowledge of that distinguished gentle- man. PAUL ALLEN. Philadelphia, January 1, 1814. Vll Life of Cap*:ain Lewis. MoDticello, August 18, 1813. Sir,— In conipliauce with the reciueHt conveyed in your letter of May 2r>, I have endeavoured to ob tain, i'roni the relatiouH and InendH of the hue governo' Lewis, information of Hueh incidentH of hin life an might be not unacceptable to those who may read the narrative of his weHtern diHcoveries. The ordinary occurrencch of a private life, and those also while 'icting in a subordinaU' sphere iu the army, in a iin\e of peace, are noh deemed suf- ficiently interesting to occui)y the public at*", tion ; but a general account of his parentage, \ i a such smaller incidents as marked his early char- acter are briefly noted ; and to these are added, as being peculiarly within my own knowledge, what- ever related to the public li^sion, of which an account is now to be published. The result olniy inquiries and recollections shall now be offered, to be enlarged or abridged as you may think best ; or otherwise to be us;h1 with the materials you may liave collected from other sources. Meriwether Lewis, late governor of Louisiana, was born on the eighteenth of August, 1774, near the town of Charlottesville, in the county of Albe- marle, in Virginia, of one of the distinguished families of that state. John Lewis, one of his father's uncles, was a member of the king's coun- cil, before the revolution. Another of them. Field- ing Lewis, married a sister of general Washington, His father, William Lewis, was the youngest of five sons of colonel Robert Lewis, of Aibemarle, the fourth of whom, Charles, was one of the early ix LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. patriots who et^epped forward in the commence- ment of the revolution, and commanded one of the regiments first raised in Virginia, and placed on continental establishment Happily situated at home, with a wife and young family, and a for- tune placing him at ease, he left all to aid in tne liberation of his country from foreign usurpations, then first unmasking their ultimate end and aim. His good sense, integrity, bravery, enterprise, and remarkable bodily powers, marked him as an officer of great promise; but he unfortunately died early in the revolution. Nicholas Lewis, the sec- ond of his father's brothers, commanded a regi- ment of militia in the successful expedition of 1770, against the Cherokee Indians; who, seduced by the agents of the British government to take up the hatchet against us, had committed great havoc on our Southern frontier by murdering and scalping helpless women and children, according to their cruel and cowardly principles of warfare. The chastisement they then received closed the history of their wars, and prepared them for re- ceiving the elements of civilization, which, zeal- ously inculcated by the present government of the United States, have rendcod them an industrious, peaceable, and happy people. This member of the family of Lewises, whose bravery was so usefully proved on this occasion, was endeared to all who knew him by hiS inflexible probity, courteous dis- position, benevolent heart, and engaging modesty and manners. He was the umpire of all the pri- vate differences of his county— selected always by both parties. He was also the guardian of Meri- wether Lewis, of whom we are now to speak, and who had lost his father at an early age. He continued some years under the fostering care of a tender mother, of the respectable family of Meri- LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. wethers, of the same county; and was remarka- ble even in infancy for enterprise, boldness, and discretion. When only eight years of age he habi- tually went out, in the dead of night, alone with hig dogs, into the forest to hunt the raccoon and opossum, which, seeking their food in the night, can then only be taken. In this exercise, no sea- son or circumstance could obstruct his purpose- plunging through the winter's snows and frozen streams in pursuit of his object. At thirteen he was put to the Latin school, and continued at that until eighteen, when he returned to his mother, and entered on the cares of his farm; having, as well as a younger brother, been left by his father with a competency for all the correct and comfortable purposes of temperate life. His talent for observation, which had led him to an accurate knowledge of the plants and animals of his own country, would have distinguished him as a farmer; but at the age of twenty, yielding to the ardour of youth, and a passion for more dazzling pursuits, he engaged as a volunteer in the body of militia which were called out by general Washington, on occasion of the discontents pro- duced by the excise taxes in the western parts of the United States ; and from that situation he was removed to the regular service as a lieutenant in the line. At twenty-three he was promoted to a captaincy ; and, always attracting the first atten- tion where punctuality and fidelity were requisite, he was appointed paymaster to his regiment. About this time a circumstance occurred which^ leading to the transaction which is the subject of this book, will justify a recurrence to its original idea. While I resided in Paris, John Ledyard, of Connecticut, arrived there, well known in the United States for energy of body and mind. He xi LIFE OP CAPTAIN LEWIS. had accompanied captain Cook on his voyage to the Pacflc ocean; and distinguished himstf on n« diZ:c It "'*"''""'^- "''"« •"■ "™- enterprise. His immediate object at Paris wno t^ engage a mercantile company'in the C rLe o? ne tailed. I then proposed to him to go bv lanrt els tTvo :f"' ""'' '""'•"«' <"■ *'"' «-«'- ve° o the ;r«„ '^'"'""' '■'"' <''»^» '"to the latitude tij tiie unitea htates. Jfe eairerlv sei/Pd fha t'of'ruf ''■^'"^'' *° "^ '^^^""^ oJ^heTrmt s on ol the Uussian government. I interested i„ ":ir;rtre^fnpraT^ r «^^^^^ eiillv ti,„ K '-'"'"^'^"S "^t Jans, but more espe- cori^snoi dent ^h '• "" "°''"' '^'"^ "«''"* '»"'l mplomlv r '" '" '"''**''•'' "°t immediately aiplomatic. Her permission was obtained and an Msnranee of protection while the conS of the voyage should be through her territories L^ burgh after the empress had left that pJe to pass the winter, I think, at Moscow His fi,?^„ not ,«rmitting him to make uaZess, y t™ ^ . letersburgh he left it with a passp'^.rt from dayTnd ^^tnrnr eTer'X^^ ti.rr rSser^h- ?r "^ "- -^o-'nai:^ """^ef- ihe fatigue of this journey broke xii LIFE OF CArTAIN LEWIS. down his constitution ; and when he returned to I'aris his bodily strength was much impaired. His mind, however, remained firm, and he after this undertook the journey to Egypt. I received a letter from him, full of sanguine hopes, dated at (jairo, the fifteenth of November, 1788, the day before he was to set out for the head of the Nile; on which day, however, he ended his career and life: and thus failed the first attempt to explore the western part of our Northern continent. In 1792, I proposed to the American l*hilo8oph- ical Society that we should set on foot a sub- scription to engage some competent person to explore that region in the opposite direction; that is, by ascending the Missouri, crossing the Stony Mountains, and descending the nearest river to the Pacific. Captain Lewis being then stationed at Charlottesville, on the recruiting service, warmly solicited Tie to obtain for him the execution of that object. I told him it was proposed that the person engaged should be attended by a single companion only, to avoid exciting alarm among the Indians. This did not deter him; but Mr. Andre Michaux, a professed botanist, author of the Flora Boreali-Amerieana, and of the Histoire des Chesnes d'Amerique, offering his services, they were accepted. He received his instructions, and when he had reached Kentucky in the prosecution of his journey, he was overtaken by an order from the Minister of France, then at Philadelphia, to ^ linquish the expedition, and to pursue elsewhere the botanical inquiries on which he was employed by that government: and thus failed the second attempt for exploring that region. In 1803, the act for establishing trading houses with the Indian tribes being about to expire, some modifications of it were recommended to congress xiii LIFE OF CAl'TAIN LEWl^. by a confidential message of January 18th and an extension oi' its views to the Indians on the Missouri. In order to prepare the way, the mes- sage proposed the sending an exploring party to trace tlie Missouri to its source, to cross the Highlaiids, and follow the best water-communica- tion which offered itself from thence to the ]>acific ocean. Congress approved the proposition, and voted a sum of money for carrying it into execu- tion. Captain Lewis, who had then been near two years with me as private secretary, immedi- ately renewed his solicitations to have the direc- tion of the party. I had now had opportunities of knowing him intimately. Of courage un- daunted; possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which nothing but impossibilities could divert from its direction; careful as a father of those committed to his charge, yet steady in the maintenance of order and discipline; intimate with the Indian character, customs, and piinciples- habituated to the hunting life; guarded, by exact observation of the vegetables and animals of his own country, against losing time in the descrip- tion of objects already possessed; honest, disin- terested hberal, of sound understanding,' and a fidelity to truth so scrupulous, that whatever he should report would be as certain as if seen bv ourselves; with all these qualifications, as if se toed and implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I could have no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him. To fill up the measure desired, he wanted nothing but a greater familiarity with the technical language of the natural sciences, and readiness in the astronomical observations necessary for the geography of his t^p;•,l^''?^''''' ^^'"'^ ^^" ^"P^'^^^ immediately to I hiladelphia, and placed himself under the xiy LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. tutorage of the distinguished professors of that place, who with a zeal and emulation, enkindled by an ardent devotion to science, communicated to him freely the information requisite for the pur- poses of the journey. While attending too, at Lancaster, the fabrication of the arms with which he chose that his men should be provided, he had the benefit of daily communication with Mr. An- drew EUicot, whose experience in astronomical observation, and practice of it in the woods, enabled him to apprise captain Lewis of the wants and diflBculties he would encounter, and of the substitutes and resources offered by a wood- land and uninhabited country. Deeming it necessary he should have some per- son with him of known com.petence to the direc- tion of the enterprise, in the event of accident to himself, he proposed William Clark, brother of general George Eogers Clark, who was approved, and, with that view, received a commission of captain. In April, 1803, a draught of his instructions was sent to captain Lewis, and on the twentieth of June they were signed in the following form : "To Meriwether Lewis, esquire, captain of the first regiment of infantry of the United States of America : "Your situation as secretary of the president of the United States, has made you acquainted with the objects of my confidential message of January 18, 1803, to the legislature; you have seen th^ act they passed, which, though expressed in gen- eral terms, was meant to sanction those objects, and you are appointed to carry them into execu- tion. "Instruments for ascertaining, by ^elcRtial obser- vations, the geography of the country through *v LIFE OF CAl'TAIN LEWIS. which you will pass, have been already provided. Light articles for barter and presents among the Indians, arms for your attendants, say for from ten to twelve men, boats, tents, and other travel- ling apparatus, with ammunition, medicine, surgi- cal instruments, and provisions, you will have prepared, with such aids as the secretary at war can yield in his department; and from him also you will receive authority to engage among our troops, by voluntary agreement, the number of attendants abovementioned ; over whom you, as their commanding officer, are invested with all the powers the laws give in such a case. "As your movements, Avhile within the limits of the United States, will be better directed by occa- sional communications, adapted to circumstances as they arise, they will not be noticed here. What follows will respect your proceedings after your departure from the United States. "Your mission has been communicated to the ministers here from France, Spain, and Great Britain, and through them to their governments ; and such assurances given them as to its objects, as we trust will satisfy them. The country of Louisiana having been ceded by Spain to France, the passport you have from the minister of France, the representative of the present sovereign of the country, will be a protection with all its subjects ; and that from the minister of England will entitle you to the friendly aid of any traders of that allegiance with whom you may happen to meet. "The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri river, and such principal streams of it, as, by its course and communication with the waters of the Pacific ocean, whether the Columbia, Oregan, Colorado, or any other river, may offer the most xvi 1 r provided, imong the y for from her travel- cine, surgi- will have iry at war Q him also imong our number of )m you, as vith all the le limits of ed by occa- eumstanees lere. What after your ited to the and Great vernments ; its objects, country of L to France, minister of it sovereign vith all its of England any traders Y happen to explore the ms of it, as, le waters of )ia, Oregan, er the most LIFE OF CAFTAIN LEWIS. direct and practicable water - communication across the continent, for the purposes of com- merce. "Beginning at the mouth of the Missouri, you will take observations of latitude and longitude, at all remarkable points on the river, and es- pecially at the mouths of rivers, at rapids, at islands, and other places and objects distinguished by such natural marks and characters, of a dur- able kind, as that they may with certainty be recognised hereafter. The courses of the river be- tween these points of observation may be supplied by the compass, the log-line, and by time, corrected by the observations themselves. The variations of the needle, too, in different places, should be noticed. "The interesting points of the portage between the heads of the Alissouri, and of the water of- fering the best communication with the Tacific ocean, should also be fixed by observation; and the course of that water to the ocean, in the same manner as that of the Missouri. "Your observations are to be taken with great pains and accuracy; to be entered distinctly and intelligibly for others as well as yourself; to com- prehend all the elements necessary, with the aid of the usual tables, to fix the latitude and longitude of the places at which they were taken ; and are to be rendered to the war-office, for the purpose of having the calculations made concurrently by proper persons within the United States. Several copies of these, as well as of your other notes, should be made at leisure times., and put into the care of the most trustworthy of your attendants to guard, by multiplying them against the acci- dental losses to which they will be exposed. A further guard would be, tjiat one of these copies Vol. 1.— 2 xvii LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. be on the eiiticular membranes of the paper-birch, as less liable to injury from damp than common paper. "The commerce which may be carried on with the people inhabiting the line you will pursue, renders a knowledge of those people important. You will therefore endeavour to make yourself acquainted, as far as a diligent pursuit of your journey shall admit, with the names of the na- tions and their numbers; "The extent and limits of their possessions; "Their relations with other tribes or nations; "Their language, traditions, monuments; "Their ordinary occupations in agriculture, fish- ing, hunting, war, arts, and the implements for these ; "Their food, clothing, and domestic accommo- dations : "The diseases prevalent among thera, and the remedies they use; "Moral and physical circumstances which dis- tinguish them from the tribes we know; "I'eculiarities in their laws, customs, and dispo- sitions ; "And articles of commerce they may need or furnish, and to what extent. "And, considering the interest which every na- tion has in extending and strengthening the au- thority of reason and justice among the people around them, it will be useful to acquire what knowledge you can of the state of morality, re- ligion, and information among them ; as it may better enable those who may endeavour to civilize and instruct them, to adapt their measures to the existing notions and practices of those on whom they are to operate. "Other objects worthy of notice will be— xviij LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. "The Hoil anfl face of the country, itH j?rovvth and vegetable productionH, especially those not of the United ►' .tes; "The aniinaln of the country generally, and es- pecially those not known in the United States; "The remains and accounts of any which may be deemed rare or extinct; "The mineral productions of every kind, but more particularly metals, lime-stone, pit-coal, and saltpetre ; saliries and mineral waters, noting the temperature of the last, and such circumstances as may indicate their character; "Volcanic ai)pearances ; "Climate, as characterized by the thermometer, by the proportion of rainy, cloudy, and clear days; by lightning, hail, snow, ice; by the access and recess of frost; by the winds prevailing at different seasons; the dates at which particular plants put forth, or lose their flower or leaf; times of appearance of particular birds, reptiles or in- sects. "Although your route will be along the channel of the Missouri, yet you will endeavour to inform yourself, by inquiry, of the character and extent of the country watered by its branches, and es- pecially on its southern side. The North river, or Kio Bravo, which runs into the gulf of Mexico, and the North river, or I{io Colorado, which runs into the gulf of California, are understood to be the principal streams heading opposite to the waters of the Missouri, and running southwardly. Whether the dividing grounds between the Mis- souri and them are mountains or flat lands, what are their distance from the JMissouri, the character of the intermediate country, and the people in- habiting it, are worthy of particular inquiry. The northern waters of the Missouri are less to be xix J.IFK OF CAPTAIN LFVVJS. inqiilnMl after, because they have been ascertaiiKKl to a couHiderable dejrree, and are Htill in a eourHo of aHcertaimiient by IjiKliHh IraderH and travel- lerH; but if you can learn any thin^ certain of the inoHt northern Hource of the AUHHiwipi, and of itH poHition rehitively to the Lake of the \NoodH, it will be interewtin^ to uh. Some account too of the path of the Cauadian traderw from the MiHHJsipi, at the mouth of the OuiHconwinpf to where it HtrikcH the Miswouri, and of the woil and rivers in itH courHc, in dewirable. *vln all your intercourse with the natives, treat them in the most friendly and conciliatory manner which their own conduct will admit; allay all jealousies as to the object of your journey; satisfy them of its innocence; make them acquainted with the ijosition, extent, character, peaceable and com- mercial dispositions of the United States; of our wish to be neighbourly, friendly, and useful to them, and of our dispositions to a commercial intercourse with them; confer with them on the points most convenient as mutual emporiums, and the articles of most desirable interchange for them and us. If a few of their influential chiefs, within practicable distance, wish to visit us, arrange such a visit Avith thetn, and furnish them Avith authority to call on our officers on their entering the United States, to have them conveyed to this place at the public expense. If any of them should wish to have some of thtir young people brought up with us, and taught such arts as may be useful to them, we Avill receive, instruct, and take care of them. Such a mission, whether of influential chiefs, or of young people, would give some se- curity to your OAvn party. Carry with you some fliatter of the kine-pox ; inform those of them with whom you may be of its efficacy as a preservative XX LIFK OF C ATTAIN LFAVIS. from the Bmall-pox, and inHtruct and encoiirapjo tln'in in the uho of it. This may be eHpccially done wherever you winter. "Ah it iw inipoHHible for uh to foreHot; in what niarMier you will be received by thoHe people, win her with hoHpitality or hoHtility, so is it im- po^Hible to prescribe the exjict degree of perse- verance with which you are to i)ursue your jour- ney. We value too much the lives of citizens to otfer them to probable destruction. Your num- bers will be sufficient to secure you against the unauthorized opposition of individuals, or of small parties; but if a superior force, authorized, or not authorized, by a nation, should be arrayed against your further passage, ard inflexibly deter- mined to arrest it, you must decline its further pursuit and return. Jn the loss of yourselves we should lose also the information you will have accpiired. By returning safely with that, you may enable us to renew the essay with better calcu- lated means. To your own discretion, therefore, must be left the degree of danger you may risk, and the point at which you should decline, only saying, we wish y ou to err on the side of your safety, and to bring back your party safe, even if it be with less information. "As far up the Missouri as the white settlements extend, an intercourse will probably be found to exibt between them and the Spanish posts of St. Louis opposite Cahokia, or St. (lenevieve opposite Kaskaskia. From still further up the river the traders may furnish a conveyance for letters. Be- yond that you may perhaps be able to engage Indians to bring letters for the government to Cahokia, or Kaskaskia, on promising that they shall there receive such special compensation as you shall have stipulated with them. Avail your- xxi LIFE OF CAPTAIN LFWIS. self of th<'H«' iMc.'iiiH to conimiinlcato to hh, afc HWiwmnhlf intorvniH, a ('oi)y (jfyonr journnl, not<*8 and oliHorvatioiiM of every kind, putting into cypher wSiatever rniKht do injury if betrayed. "Should you reacli the I'aoilie ocean, inform yourHelf of the circuniHtanceH which may dcHjide whether the furH of thowe partH may not be col- I(H'ted aH advanta|,'eouHly at the head of the MIh- Houri (conveni'Mit an iw suppoHcd to the waterw of the Colorado and Orc^nn or ('oluinl)ia) as at Nootka Sound, or any other point of that coant; and that trade be toiiHeipiently conducted through the MiHHouri and United States more benelicially than by the circumnavigation now practined. "On your arrival on that coawt, endeavour to learn if there he. any port within your reach fre- quented by the Hea vchhcIh of any nation, and to send two of your trunty peoi)le back by sea, in Huch way an niiall appenr practicable, with a copy of your notes; and should you be of opinion that the return of your party by the way they v/ent will be imminently dangerous, then ship the whole, and return by sea, by the way either of I ipe Horn, or the Cape of (Jood Hope, as you shal! be able. As you will be without money, clothes, or provisions, you must endeavour to use the credit of the United States to obtain them ; for which purpose open letters of credit shall be furnislied you, authorizinj? you to draw on the executivt^ of the l^ited Sti^tes, or any of its of- fice'x, iu an^ part of the world, on which draughts can be disposed of, and to apply with our recommendations to the cons ' ^ agents, mer- chants, or citizens of any nation \ ith which we have intercourse, assuring them, in our name, that any aids they may furnish you shall be honoura- bly repaid, and on demand. Our consuls, Thomas xxii I LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. HewpH, lit Hatavia, in Java, VVilllam liurhnnan, ill tho iHleH of FraiuM' and Mourbon, aiul .loh.i ElniHlie, at the (^apo ofdcKxl Mope, will ho .able to HUpply ycmr nt«ct»HHitit*H, l>y (IraujrhtH on uh. "Should you find it safe to return by the way you K^>i 'ifter Hendiu)": two of your party round by Hea, or with your whole party, if no conveyance by Hea can be found, do ho; niak'njur Huch obHerva- tiouH on your retuiVi as may serve to sui)ply, cor- rect, or confirm thoHe made on your outward journey. "On reentering the United Staten and '•eachinp: a phice of safety, discharge any of your attendants who may desire and denerve it, prfu'iirinj; for them immediate payment of all arrears of pay and clothing which may have incurred since their de- parture, and asHure them that they shall be rec- ommended to the liberality of the le^slature for the grant of a soldier's portion of land each, as proposed in my message to congress, and repair yourself, witli your papers, to the seat of goverD- ment. "To provide, on the accident of your death, against anarchy, dispersion, and the consequent danger to your party, and total failure of the en- terprise, you are hereby authorized, by any instru- ment signed and written in your own hand, to name the person among them who shall succeed to the command on your decease, and by like instruments to change the nomination, from time to time, as further experience of the characters accompanying you shall point out superior fit- ness ; and all the powers and authorities givem to yourself are, in the event of your death, trans- ferred to, and vested in the successor so named, with further power to him and his successors, in like manner to name each his successor, who, on • •• XXIU LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. the death of his predecessor, shall be invested with all the powers and authorities ftiven to yourself, (iiven under ray hand at the city of Washington! this twentieth day of June, 1 Him. ''THOMAS JEFFERSON. "President of the United States of America." While these things were going on here, the coun- try of Louisiana, lately ceded by Spain to France, had been the subject of negotiation at I»aris be- tween us and this last power; and had actually been transferred to us by treaties executed at I aris on the thirtieth of April. This information received about the first day of July, increased in- finitely the interest we felt in the expedition, and lessened the apprehensions of interruption from other powers. Every thing in this quarter being now prepared, captain Lewis left Washington on the fifth of July, 1803, and proceeded to Pitts- burg, where other articles had been ordered to be provided for him. The men too were to be selected from the military stations on the Ohio Delays of preparation, difficulties of navigation down the Ohio, and other untoAvard obstructions retarded his arrival at Cahokia until the season was so far advanced as to render it prudent to suspend his entering the Missouri before the ice should break up in the succeeding spring. From this time hit journal, now published, will give the history of his journey to and from the Pacific ocean, until his return to St. Louis on the twenty-third of September, 1800. Never did a similar event excite more joy through the United States. The humblest of its citizens had taken a hvely interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward with impatience for the informa- tion it would furnish. Their anxieties too for the xxiv LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. safety of the corps had been kei)t in a state of excitement by lugubrious rumours, circulated from time to time on uncertain authorities, and uncon- tradicted by letters, or other direct information, from the time they had left the Mandan towns, on their ascent up the river in April of the preceding year, 1805, until their actual return to St. Louis. It was the middle of J^'ebruary, 1807, before captain Lewis, with his companion captain Clark, reached the city of Washington, where congress was then in session. That body granted to the two chiefs and their followers the donation of lands which they had been encouraged to ex- pect in reward of their toil and dangers. Captain Lewis was soon after appointed governor of Tjouisiana, and captain Clark a general of its militia, and agent of the United States for Indian affairs in that department. A considerable time intervened before the gov- ernor's arrival at St. Louis. He found the terri- tory distracted by feuds and contentions among the officers of the government, and the people themselves divided by these into factions and parties. He determined at once to take no side with either; but to use every endeavour to con- ciliate and harmonize them. The even-handed jus- tice he administered to all soon established a respect for his person and authority; and perse- verance and time wore down animosities, and reunited the citizens again into one family. Governor l-ewis had, from early life, been sub- ject to hypochondriac affections. It was a consti- tutional disposition in all the nearer branches of the family of his name, and was more immediately inherited by him from his father. • They h'd not, however, been so strong as to give uneasi ess to his family. While he lived with me in Washington YYV I I I LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS. I observed at times sensible depressions of mind : but knowing their constitutional source, I esti- mated their course by what I had seen in the family. During his western expedition, the con- stant exertion which that required of all the facul- ties of body and mind, suspended these distressing affections; but after his establishment at St. Louis in sedentary occupations, they returned upon him with redoubled vigour, and began seri- ously to alarm his friends. He was in a paroxysm of one of these, when his affairs rendered it neces- sary for him to go to Washington. He proceeded to the Chickasaw Bluffs, where he arrived on the sixteenth of September, 1809, with a view of continuing his journey thence by water. Mr Neely, agent of the United States with the Chicka- saw Indians, arriving there two days after, found him extremely indisposed, and betraying at times some symptoms of a derangement of mind. The rumours of a war with England, and apprehen- sions that he might lose the papers he was bring- ing on, among which were the vouchers of his public accounts, and the journals and papers of his western expedition, induced him here to change his mind, and to take his course by land through the Chickasaw country. Although he appeared somewhat relieved, Mr. Neely kindly determined to accompany and watch over him. Unfortunately, at their encampment, after having passed the Tennessee one day's journey, they lost two horses, which obliging Mr. Neely to halt for their recov- ery, the governor proceeded, under a promise to wait for him at the house of the first white inhabitant on his road. He stopped at the house of a Mr. Grinder, who not being at home, his wife, alarmed at the symptoms of derangement she discovered, gave him up the xxvi LIFE OF CAPTA^^T LEWIS. house and retired to rest herself in an outhouse, the governor's and Neely's servants lodging in another. About three o'clock in the night he did the deed which plunged his friends into afflic- tion, and deprived his country of one of her most valued citizens, whose valour and intelligence would have been now employed in avenging the wrongs of his country, and in emulating by land the splendid deeds which have honoured her arms on the ocean. It lost too to the nation the benefit of receiving from his own hand the narrative now offered them of his sufferings and successes, in en- deavouring to extend for them the boundaries of science, and to present to their knowledge that vast and fertile country, which their sons are destined to fill with arts, with science, with free- dom and happiness. To this m.elancholy close of the life of one, whom posterity will declare not to have lived in vain, I have only to add, that all the facts I have stated are either known to myself, or communicated by his family or others, for whose truth I have no hesitation to make myself responsible; and I con- clude with tendering you the assurances of my respect and consideration. TH. JEFFERSON. Mr. Paul Allen, Philadelphia. xxvii IH I 'i ii ' I I Contents. VOL. I. CHAPTER I. The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood river. Description of the town of St. Charles. Osage Woman river. Gasconade and Osage rivers described. Character of the Osage Indiiins; curious traditionary account of their origin. The party proceed and pass the Mine river. The two Charitons. The Kanzas, No- dtiwa, Newahaw, Neeshnabatona, Little Nema- har, each of which are particularly described. They encamp at the mouth of the river Platte. A particular description of the surrounding coun- try. The various creeks, bays, islands, prairies. &c., given in the course of the route. . . 35 CHAPTER IL Some account of the Pawnee Indians. Council held with the Otto and Missouri Indians. Coun- cil held with another party of the Ottoes. Death of Serjeant Floyd. The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone river. The character of the IVIissouri, with the rivers that enter it. The sur- rounding country. The various islands, bays, creeks, cV:c., given in the course of the expedi- tion 71 CHAPTER m. Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians. Council held with the Sioux. Char- xxix 1 If I ' } f' i '■ CONTENTS. a^Jter of that tribe, their maimers, &c. A ridicu- lous instance of their heroism. Ancient fortifica- tions, (iuicurre river described. Vast herds of Buffalo. Account of the I'etit Chien or Little Bog. Narrow escape of iieorge Shannon. De- scription of White river. Surprising fleetness of the antelope. l»ass the river of the Sioux. Description of the (fraud Le Tour, or Great Bend. Encamp on the Tetou river. ... 95 CHAPTER IV. Council held with the Tetons. Their manners, dances, &c. Chayenne river described. Council held with the llicara Indians. Their manners and habits. Strange instance of Kicara idola- try. Another instance. Cannon-ball river. Ar- rival among the Mandans. Character of the surrounding country, and of the creeks, islands '^^ 130 CHAI'TEH V. Council held with the Mandans. A prairie on fire, and a singular instance of preservation. Peace established between the Mandans and TUcaras. The party encamp for the winter. Indian mode of catching goats. Beautiful appearance of northern lights. Friendly character of the In- dians. Some account of the Mandans. The Anahaways and the Minnetarees. The party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by taking part in their ctintroversy with the Sioux. Be- ligion of the Mandans, and their singular con- ception of the term medicine. Their tradition. The sufferings of the party from the severity of the season. Indian game of billiards described. Character of the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c. 172 XXX CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. The party increase in the favour of the Mandans, Description of a buffalo dance. Medicine dance. The fortitude with which the Indians bear the severity of the season. Distress of the party for want of provisions. The great importance of the blacksinitli in procuring it. Depredations of the Sioux. The homage paid to the medicine stone. Summary act of justice among the Min- netarees. The process by which tlie Mandans and llicaras make beads. Chanicter of the Mis- souri, of tlie surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, tV:c . 207 CHAPTER YII. Indian method of attacking the buffalo on the ice. An enumeration of the presents sent to the president of the United States. The party are visited by a Ricara chief. They leave their en- campment, and proceed on their journey. De- scription of the Little Missouri. Some account of the Assiniboins. Their mode of burying the dead. Whiteearth river described. Grreat quan- tity of salt discovered on its banks. Yellow- stone river described. A particular account of the country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri. Description of the Missouri, the surrounding country, and of the rivers, creeks, islands, &c 237 CPIAPTER YIII. Unusual appearance of salt. The formidable char- acter of the white bear. I'orcupine river de- scribed. Beautiful appearance of the surround- ing country. Immense quantities of game. xxxi CONTENTS. Milk river deHcribed. Kxtraonlinnry char?e rivers descrlbeti— Charapter of tho (»sag(! Indians—Curious traditionary account of their Origin— The party proci^ed and pass the Mint; river— The two Chari- tf)ns— The Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, NeeshnabattJua, Little Ncnnahar, each of which are particularly descrUxHl— They en- camp at the :nouth of the river Platte -A particular description of the surrounding country— The various creeks, bays. Islands, prairies, &c., given In the course of th»! loutt;. On the acquisition of JjOuiHiana, in the year IHO;}, the attention of the government of the United States, was early directed towards explor- ing and improving- tlie new territory. Accord- ingly in the summer of the same year, an expedi- tion was planned by the president for the purpose of discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the most convenient water com- munication thence to the Pacific ocean. His pri- vate secretary "aptain Meriwether Ijewis, and captain William Clark, bcth officers of the army of the United States, were associated in the com- mand of this enterprise. After receiving the requi- site instructions, captain Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by captain Clark at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St. Louis, where they arrived in the month of December. Their original intention was to pass the winter at La Charrette, the highest settlement on the Mis- LEWIS AM) CLAUKS EXPEDITION Bouri. Hut tlu» SpaniHh (•(unnuiiulnnt of the prov- ince, not having received nn official aecount of itH tranHter to the I'nited StateH, wan ol)lij":ed l>y tlie jfeneral policy of hiH jroveriinient. to prevent HtranjtferH from paHHiiiK through the Spaniwh terri- tory. They tlierefore encamped at the mouth of Wood river, on tlie eaHtern wide of the MiHHiHHippi, out of liiH juriHdiction, where they paHH»>d the win- ter in diHciplininn- the men, and makinji: tlie ne cesHary preparatioiiH for wettinj? out early in the Spring, before which the ceHHion waH officially announced. The party conninted of nine younj? men from Kentucky, fourteen HoldierH of the United StateH army who volunteered their ser- viceH, two French watermen— an interpreter and hunter— and a black Hervant belonj^ing to captain (Hark- All thcHe, except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates durinj? the expedition, and three sergeants appointed from amongst them by th'^ captains. Jn addition to these were engaged a corporal and six soldiers, and nine watermen to accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan nation, in order to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an attack which was most to be ap- l)rehended between \Nood river and that tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven bales, and one box, containing a small portion of each article in case of accident. They consisted of a great variety of clothing, working utensils, locks, flints, powder, ball, and articles of the greatest use. To these were added fourteen bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the same manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles of dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the chiefs— ornaments of dif- ferent kinds, particularly beads, looking-glasses, handkerchiefs, paints, and generally such articles 36 Ill* THE MlSSonUI. aH were deemed beHt caloulnted for the taHte of the Indians. The party wan to embark on board of three boatH; the firnt wan a kt»fcl boat lifty-Hve feet lonj^, drawing three feet water, earryinpf one large HiiuareHail and twenty-two oarn, a deck of ten fwt in the bow, and Htern formed a forecaHtle and cabin, while the middle waH covered by lock- erH, which might be raiHed ho an to form a breaHt- Tork in cane of attack. Thin waw accompanied by two perioqueH or open boatH, one iA' nix and the other of Reven oarn. Two horneH were at the Hame time to be led along the bankH of the river for the purpone of bringing home game, or hunt- ing in cane of scarcity. Of the proceedingH of thiH expedition, the follow- ing is a Huccinct and circuniHtantial narrative. All the preparationH being completed, we left our encampment on Monday, May 14th, 1804. This BpOi' in at the mouth of Wood river, a small stream which empties itself into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance of the Missouri. It is situated in latitude US' 55 19"^"^ north, and longitude from Greenwich, 89^ 57' 45'. On both sides of the Mississippi the land for two or three miles is rich and level, but gradually swells into a high pleasant country, with less timber on the western than on the eastern side, but all sus- ceptible of cultivation. The point which separates the two rivers on the north, extends f'^ fifteen or twenty miles, the greater part of which is an open level plain, in which the people of the neighbour- hood cultivate what little grain they raise. Not being able to set sail before four o'clock P.M., we did not make more than four miles, and encamped on the first island opposite a small creek called Cold Water. iMay 7 J.— The rain, which had continued yester- 37 LEWIS AND CLAEK'S EXPEDITION fi It n day and last night, ceased this morning. We then proceeded, and after passing two small islands about ten milcH further, stopped for the night at Piper's landing, opposite another island. The water is here very rapid and the banks falling in. We found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern, in consequence of which she ran on logs three times to-day. It became necessary to throw the greatest weight on the bow of the boat, a precaution very necessary in ascending both the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, in the beds of which, there lie great quantities of concealed tim- ber. The next morning we set sail at five o'clock. At the distance of a few miles, we passed a re- markably large coal hill on the north side, called by the French l^a Charbonniere, and arrived at the town of Ht. Charles. Here we remained a few days. St. Charles is a small town on the north bank of the Missouri, about twenty-one miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. It is situated in a narrow plain, sufticiently high to protect it from the annual risings of the river in the month of June, and at the foot of a range of small hills, which have occasioned its being called Petite Cote, a name by which it is more knov/n to the French than by that of St. Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length and running parallel with the river, divides the town, which is composed of nearly one hundred small wooden houses, besides a chapel. The inhabitants, about four hundred and fifty in number, are chiefly descendants from the French of Canada; and, in their manners, they unite all the careless gay^ty, and the amiable hospitality of the best times of France : yet, like most of their countrymen in America, they are but 38 , UP THE MISSOURI. ill qualified for the rude life of a frontier; not that they are without talent, for they possess much natural genius and vivacity; nor that they are destitute of enterprise, for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and hazardous: but their exertions are all desultory ; their industry is with- out system, and without perseverance. The sur- rounding country, therefore, though rich, is not, in general, well cultivated ; the inhabitants chiefly subsisting by hunting and trade with the Indians, and confine their culture to gardening, in which they excel. Being joined by captala Lewis, who had been detained by business at St. Louis, we again set sail on Monday, May 21st, in the afternoon, but were prevented by wind and rain from going more than about three miles, when we encamped on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek which falls in on the south side. On the 22d we made about eighteen miles, pass- ing several small farms on the bank of the river, a number of islands, and a large creek ou the south side, called Bonhomme, or Goodman's river. A small number of emigrants from the United States have settled on the sides of this creek, which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands, and encamped, on the north side, near a small creek. Here we met with a camp of Kicka- poo Indians who had left us at St. Charles, with a promise of procuring us some provisions by the time we overtook them. They now made us a present of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of whiskey. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia and Illinois river, on the other side of the Mississippi, but occasionally hunt on the Missouri. May 23.— Two miles from our camp of last 3\) U I LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION night, we reached a river emptying itself on the north Bide, called Osage Woman river. It is about thirty yards wide, and has now a settlement of thirty or forty families from the United States. About a mile and a half beyond this is a large cave, on the south side at the foot of cliffs nearly three hundred feet high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift at this place. The cave is one hundred and twenty feet wide, forty feet deep, and twenty high, it is known by the name ot the Tavern, among the traders who have writ- ten their names on the rock, and painted some images which command the homage of the Indians and French. About a mile further we passed a small creek called Tavern creek, and encamped on the south side of the river, having gone nine miles. Early the next morning we ascended a very dif- ficult rapid, called the Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets for half a mile against some pro- jecting rocks on the south side. We were less fortunate in attempting a second place of equal diflSculty. Passing near the southern shore, the bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly, between the northern side and a sandbar which is constantly moving and banking with the violence of the current. The boat struck on it, and would have upset immediately, if the men had not jumped into the water and held her, till the sand washed from under her. We en- camped on the south ide, having ascended ten miles, and the next day, May 25, passed on the south side the mouth of Wood river, on the north, two small creeks and several islands, and stopped for the night at the entrance of a creek on the north side, called by the French La Charrette, ten miles from our last encampment, and a little 40 :|i UP THE MISSOURI. above a small village of the same name. It con- sists of seven small houses, and as many poor families who have fixed themselves here for the convenience of trade, and form the last establish- ment of whites on the Missouri. It rained last night, yet we found this morning that the river had fallen several inches. Mriy 26.— The wind being favourable we made eighteen miles to-day. We passed in the morning several islands, the largest of which is Buffalo island, separated from the southern side by a small channel which receives the waters of Buffalo creek. On the same side is Shepherd's cisek, a little beyond which we encamped on the northern side. The next day we sailed along a large island called Otter island, on the northern side, extend- ing nearly ten miles in length, narrow but high in its situation, and one of the most fertile in the whole river. Between it and the northern shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same name with the island, empty themselves. On the southern shore is a creek twenty yards wide, called Ash creek. In the course of the day we met two canoes loaded with furs, which had been two months on their route from the Mahar nation, residing more than seven hundred miles up the river— one large raft from the Pawnees on the river Platte, and three others from the Grand Osage river. At the distance of fifteen miles we encamped on a willow island, at the entrance of the river Grasconade. This river falls into the Mis- souri from the south, one hundred miles from the Mississippi. Its length is about one hundred and fifty miles in a course generally northeast through a hilly country. On its banks are a number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed some mines of lead in the vicinity. Its width at the mouth is 41 LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION one hundred and fifty-seven yards, and its depth nineteen feet. Here we halted for the purpose of hunting and drying our provisions, and making the necessary celestial observations. This being completed, we set sail on the 29th at four o'clock, and at four miles distance encamped on the south side, above a small creek, called Deer creek. The next day, 80th, we set out early, and at two miles distant reached a large cave, on the north, called Mont- brun's tavern, after a French trader of that name, just above a creek called after the same person. Heyond this is a large island, and at the distance of four miles, Rush creek coming in from the south, at eleven. Big-muddy river on the north, about fifty yards wide; three miles further, is Little-muddy river on the same side, opposite to which we encamped at the mouth of Grindstone creek. The rain which began last night continued through the day, accompanied with high wind and some hail. The river has been rising fast for two days, and the country around appears full of water. Along the sides of the river to day we observe much timber, the cotton wood, the syca- more, hickory, white walnut, some grapevines, and rushes — the high west wind and rain com- pelled us to remain all the next day. May 31. In the afternoon a boat came down from the Grand Osage river, bringing a letter from a person sent to the Osage nation on the Arkansaw river, which mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana was committed to the flames — that the Indians would not believe that the Americans were owners of that country, and disregarded St. Louis and its supplies. The party was occupied in hunting, in the course of which, they caught in the woods several very large rats. We set sail 42 UP THE MISSOTTRT. early the next morning, June lat, and at six miles distant passed Bear creek, a stream of about twenty-five yards width: but the wind being ahead and the current rapid, we were unable to make more than thirteen miles to the mouth of the Osage river ; where we encamped and remained the following day, for the purpose of making celestial observations. The Osage river empties itself into the Missouri, at one hundred and thirty- three miles distance from the mouth of the latter river. Its general course is west and west south- west through a rich and level country. At the junction the Missouri is about eight hundred and g-- ^'^-jfive yards wide, and the Osage three hun- { f^i . i ninety-seven. The low point of junction } in ' itude 88" 81' 10", and at a short distance froi.x it is a high commanding position, whence we enjoyed a delightful prospect of the country. The Osage river gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting its banks at a considerable dis- tance from this place. Their present name how- ever, seems to have originated from the French traders, for both among themselves and their neighbours they are called the Wasbashas. They number between twelve and thirteen hundred war- riors, and consist of three tribes : the Great Osages of about five hundred warriors, living in a village on the south bank of the river— the Little Osages, of nearly half that number, residing at the dis- tance of six miles from them— and the Arkansaw band, a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left them some years ago, under the com- mand of a chief called the Bigfoot, and settled on the Vermillion river, a branch of the Arkansaw. In person the Osages are among the largest and best formed Indians, and are said to possess fine military capacities ; but residing as they do in vil- "•^aftamsmmmptm LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPP:DITI0N lages, and having made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem lesw addicted to war, than their northern neighbours, to whom the use of rifles gives a great superiority. Among the pecul- iarities of this peoi»le, there is nothing more re- markable than the tradition relative to their origin. According to universal belief, the found- er of the nation was a snail passing a quiet ex- istence along the banks of the Osage, till a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a man, but with the change of his nature, he had not forgotten his native seats on the Osage, towards which, he im- mediately bent his way. He was however soon overtaken by hunger, and fatigue, when happily the Grreat Spirit appeared, and giving him a bow and arrow, showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. He then proceeded to his original residence, but as he ap- proached the river, he was met by a beaver, who inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he came to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that t^-e river was his own, for he had once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver came, and having by her entreaties reconciled her father to this young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment of the river. The Osage readily consented, and from this happy union there soon came the village and the nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have ever since preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining from the chase of the beaver, because in killing that animal, they killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, however, since the trade 44 UP THE MISSOURI. with the whites has rendered beaver skins more valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relatives has visibly reduced, and the poor animals have nearly lost all the privileges of kindred. On the afternoon of June H, we proceeded, and at three miles distant, reached a creek called Cup- board creek, from a rock of that appearance near its entrance. Two miles further we encamped at Moreau creek, a stream of twenty yards width, on the southern side. The next morning, we passed at an early hour. Cedar island on the north, so called from the abundance of the tree of that name ; near which is a small creek, named Night- ingale creek, from a bird of that species, who sang for us during the night. Beyond (^edar island, are some others of a smaller extent, and at seven miles distance a creek fifteen or twenty yards wide, entering from the north, and known by the name of Cedar creek. At sc/en and a half miles further we passed on the south side another creek, which we called Mast creek, from the cir- cumstance of our mast being broken by running under a concealed tree; a little above is another creek on the left, one mile beyond which we en- camped on the southern shore under high project- ing cliffs. The French had reported that lead ore was to be found in this place, but on examining the hills, we could discern no •^^ earance of that mineral. Along the river on tub ^uuth, is a low land covered with rushes, and high nettles, and near the mouths of the c eeks, supplied with oak, ash, and walnut timber. On the north the land is rich and well situated. We made seventeen and a hal*" ailes this day. The river is falling slowly. We continued our route the next morning early : a small creek called Lead creek, on the south; an- other on the north, known to the French by the 45 LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION name of Little (iood Woman's en ;k, and a)B:ain Biff Rock creek on the south were the only streams we passed this morninja^. At eleven o'clock we met a raft made of two canoes joined together, in which two French traders were descending, from eighty leagues up the river Kanzas, where they had wintered, and caught great quantities of beaver, but had lost much of their game by fires from the prairies. They told us that the Kanzas nation is now hunting buffalo in the plains, hav- ing i)assed the last winter in this river. Two miles further, we reached on the south Little Manitou creek, which takes its name from a strange figure resembling the bust of c man, with the horns of a stag, painted on a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit or deity. Near this is a sandbar extending several miles, wliich renders the navigation difficult, and a small creek called Sand creek on the south, where we stopped for dinner and gathered wild cresses and tongue grass from the sandbar. The rapidity of the cur- rents added to our having broken our mast, pre- vented our going more than twelve and a half miles. The scouts and hunters whom we always kept out, report that they have seen fresh tracks of Indians. The next morning we left our camp, which was on the south side, opposite to a large island in the middle of the river, and at five miles reached a creek on the north side, of about twenty yards wide, called Split Rock creek, from a fissure in the point of a neighbouring rock. Three miles beyond this, on the south is Saline river, it is about thirty yards wide, and has its name from the number of salt licks, and springs, which ren- der its water brackish ; the river is very rapid and the banks falling in. After leaving Saline creek, we passed one large island and several smaller 46 I Jl UP THE MISSOURI. ones, having: made fourteen miles. The water rose a foot (luring the last night. The next day, June 7 we passed at four and a half miles Big Manitou creek, near which is a limestone rock inlaid Avith flint of various colours, and embellished, or at least covered with uncouth paintings of animals and inscriptions. We landed to examine it, but found the place occupied by a nest of rattlesnaker,, of which we killed three. We also examined some licks and springs of salt water, two or three miles up this creek. We then proceeded by some small willow islands, and en- camped at the mouth of Good Woman river on the north. It is about thirty-five yards wide, and said to be navigable for boats several leagues. The hunters, who had hitherto given us only deer, brought in this evening three bears, and had seen some indication of buffalo. We had come fourteen miles. June 6'.— We saw several small willow islands, and a creek on the south, near which are a num- ber of deer licks ; at nine miles distance we came to Mine river. This river, which falls into the Missouri from the south, is said to be navigable for boats eighty or ninety miles, and i*^ about seventy yards wide at its mouth. It fori about five or six leagues from the Missouri, and at the point of junction are some very rich salt springs; the wost branch in particular, is so much im->reg- nated, that, for twenty miles, the water is not palatable: several branches of the Manitou and Good Woman are equally tinctured. The French report also, that lead ore has been found on dif- ferent parts of the river. We made several excur- sions near the river through the low rich country on its banks, and after dinner went on to the island of Mills, where we encamped. U'e met with a 47 I lKWTS and CLARK'S EXPEDITION party of three hunters from the Sioux river; they had been out for twelve months, and collected about nine hundred dollars worth of peltries and furs. We ascended this river twelve miles. On the mi, we set out eariy, and reached a clitl of rocks, called the Arrow Kock, near to which is a prairie called the Prairies of Arrows, and Arrow creek, a small stream about eight yards wide, whose source is in the adjoining prairies on the south At this cliff the Missouri is confined within a bed of two hundred yards; and about four miles to the south-east is a large lick and salt spring of great strength. About three miles further is Blackbird creek on the north side, opposite to which, is an island and a prairie inclosing a small lake Five miles beyond this we encamped on the south side, after making, in the course of the day thirteen miles. The land on the north is a high rich plain. On the south it is also even, of a good quality, and rising from fifty to one hundred feet. The next morning, 10th, we passed Deer creek, and at the distance of five miles, the two rivers called by the French the two Charatons, a cor- ruption of Thieraton, the first of which i« thirty, the second seventy yards wide, and enter the Mis- souri together. They are both navigable for boats: the country through which they pass is broken, rich, and thickly covered with timber The Ayauway nation, consisting of three hundred men, have a village near its head-waters on the river De Moines. Farther on we passed a large island called Chicot or Stump Island, and en- camped on the south, after making ten miles. A head wind forced us to remain t'lere all the next day, during which we dried -le meat we had killed, and examined the surrounding country which consists of good land, well watered, and 48 UP THE MISSOURI. supplied with timber: the prairies also differ fVom those eastward of the Mississippi, inasuiaeh as the latter are generally without any covering ex- cept grass, whilst the former abound with hazel, grapes and ler fruits, among which is the Osage plum ot a sui)erior size and quality. On the morning of the 12th, we passed through diffivult places in the river, and reacht^d Plum creek on the south side. At one o'clock, we met two raits loaded, the one with furs, the other with the tallow of buffalo; they were from the Sioux nation, and on their wa; to St. Louis; but we were fortunate enough to engage one of them, a Mr. Durion, who had lived with that nation more than twenty years, and was high in their confi- dence, to accompany us thither. We made nine miles. On the 18th, we passed at between four and five miles, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the north, called the Round Bend creeks. Be- tween these two creeks is the prairie, in which once stood the ancient village of the Missouris. Of this village there remains no vestige, nor is there any thing to recall this great and numerous nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families. They were driven from their original seats by the invasions of the Sauks and other Indians from the Mississippi, who destroyed at this village two hundred of them in one contest, and sought refuge near the Little Osage, on the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same enemies forced, about thirty years since, both these nations from the banks of the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage, and the remainder found an asylum on the river Platte, among the Ottoes, who are themselves declining. Opposite the plain there was an island and a French fort, but there is now no appearance of either, the suc- Vol. I.-4 49 1 ? If I t LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION cessive inunuatioiiH havln*:^ probably wawlu'd them away, aH the willow iHlaiid which in in the uitiia- tion (leHcribed by I)u I'ratz, iw Hinall and of recent formation. Five milen from thin place in the mouth of (Jrand Hiver, where we encamped. 'fhiH river folio wh a eourHe nearly Houth, or HO'ith- east, and iH between eighty and a hundred yards wide Avhere it enters* Jie MiHHOuri, near a delight- ful and rich i)lain. A racoon, a bear, and Home deer were obtaine."! ^e'^' in the monnn^r, July 7th, the raniditv oFth. water o.>H.ed uh to draw the bc>at' l^Utt ropes At 8,x and three quarter niileH. we came to a sandbar, at a point opposite a fine rich rairie on the north, called St. Michael's. The prairies , this neighbourhood have the appearan e o^d we passed a narrow part of the channel where ytdTtidr T"^ "'""" " '"^ •"•*- '■""d-d yards w de, the current running directly a^in-t the soutl«,rn bank with no sand on the norrto z:va'':;T V"'"'- ^« ""•de ?o„rL*: miles, and halted on the north, after which we had a violent gust about seven ocl,^k „e of the hunters saw in a pond to the north whilhwl passed yesterday a number f young swl';: saw a large rat, and killed a wolf. Another of our men had a stroke of the sun; he was bled ht crsiderbr"'"" " "'- -'eh^nrd .malfcrl";;"'" Tu ""* ""■'^' '•"" »»"» parsed a «uall creek on the north, which we called Ord way s creek, from our sergeant of that name who" one Of wuich isTLittrv T'' ^""'" '^'""d^, thousand ^r • of hi^h iTd'Tand™" T "^''* flowed, and one ofthf^Ct .'rndsT^heX :f UP THK MISSOURI. HOiiri. It iH Heparated from the northern ehore by a Hinall channel of from forty-five to eij?hty yards wide, up which we passed, and found near the western extremity of the island the mouth of the river Nodawa. This river pursues nearly a south- ern course, is navigable for boats to some dis- tance, and about seventy yards wide above the mouth, though not so wide immediately there, as the mud from the Missouri contracts its channel. At twelve and a quarter miles, we encamped on the north side, near the head of Nodawa island, and opposite a smaller one in the middle ol' the river. Five of the men were this day sick with violent headaches. The river continues to fkll. July 0th. — We passed the island opposite to which we last night encamped, and saw near the head of it a creek falling in from a pond on the north, to which we gave the name of Pike pond, from the nun: bers of that animal which some of our party saw from the shore. The wind changed at eight from N. E. to S. W. and brought rain. At six miles we passed the mouth of Monter's creek on the south, and two miles above a few cabins, where one of our party had encamped with some Frenchmen about two years ago. Further on we passed an island on the north, opposite some cliffs on the south side, near v/hich Loup or Wolf river falls into the Missouri. This river is about sixty yards wide, it heads near the same sources as the Kanzas, and is navigable for boats, at some distance up. At fourteen miles we encamped on the south side. Tuesday lOtb.—We proceeded on by a prairie on the upper side of Wolf river, and at four miles passed a creek fifteen yards wide on the south, called Pape's creek after a Spaniard of that name, who killed himself there. At six miles we dined on 61 ^s^sa*.. i I' I TJOVVIS AND CLARK'S KXIMODITION nil iHl/ind «MilU<(l by the lYcncli IhI»> dc Salomon, or SoIoinoiiH Miuul, oppoHite tt) which on the Houth iH H hoantil\il |)laiii covcrod with ^ruHH, iiitcrniixcd with wihl r.vc and n ki.id of wihl potato. After making ten mih'H we Htoppc*! for tlic iii^fht on the northern Hide, opponite aclilfOf yellow elay. The river haw neither riHen nor fallen to da.v. On the north the low land in very extenHive, and covered with vineH; on theHonth, thehillHapproaeh nearer the river, and baek of them eoniinenee the phiinH. There are a great many goHlin^cw along the banks. Wofliwsd.'tx ////;.— After three miles Hailing we eame to a, willow inhind on the north wide, behind which enterH a creek called by the IndiaiiH Tarkio. Above thiH crtH'k on the north the low landH are Hubjwt to overflow, and farther back the under- groth of vincH particularly, Ih ho abundant that they ckn scarcely be panned. Three milen from the Tarkio we encamped on a. large Hand inland on the north, imnuMliately opponite the river Nemahaw. Thursd.'iv 7l^///.— We remained here to-day for the purpoHC of refVeshing the party, and making lunar obHervationn. The Nemahaw empticH itwelf into the Minnouri from the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence, which is in lat. 39" 55' 5(r. Captain Clark ascended it in the periogue about tAvo miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower side. On going ashore ho found in the level plain several artificial mounds or graves, and on the adjoining hills others of a larger size. This api)earance indicates sufficiently the former population of this country, the mounds being certainly intended as tombs; the Indians of the Missouri still preserving the custom of inter- ring the dead on high ground. From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect presented itself—the level and extensive meadows watered G2 MP Tl JO MISSOIIKI. hy tin' Ncinaluivv, nnd onliviMicd by tin* (i'W tnM«H and Hlinilm nkirtiiiK the bonlcrH of tln' river and itH tributary HtrcaiiiH— tlu> lowland of't,lu> MiHHouri rovrrcd with tiiididatiii^ ^himh, nc/irly llvr fwt liijj;!!. gradually riHiti^ into a H«rond pl/iin, wIuto rich w«M'dH and HowcrH an< intcrHpcrHt'd with (•o|)H«'H of the ()Hay:«' plnni; fiirtlicr hack are Hcen Hniall ^rovcH oltrccH; an abund/incc of^rapcH; the wild cherry of the MiHHonri, rcHeinbJinjj^ our own, but larger, and ^rowin^ on aHrnall buHh ; and the chokecherry, which we obHorved for the lirHt time. Some of the ^rapcH gathered to-day are nearly ripe. On the Houth of th(^ Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a nnle from itH mouth, \h a cliff of free- Btone, in which are variouH inHcriptiouH and markH made by the IndiauH. The wind iHland where we an^ encatnj)ed, iH covered with the two HpecieH of willow, broad and narrow leaf. July 7.V/7;.— We proceeded at HunriHe with a fair wind from the Houth, and at two miles, panHcd the mouth of a Hmall river on the north, called Bi^ Tarkio. A channel from the bed of the Min- Houri once ran into thiH river, and formed an iwland called St. .loHeph'H, but the channel iH now filled up, and the iHland Ih added to the northern Bhore. Further on to the south, in Hituated an extensive plain, covered with a grass resembling timothy in its general appearance, except the seed, which is like flax-seed, and also a number of grape-vines. At twelve miles, we passed an island on the north, above which is a large sandbar covered with willows : and at twenty and a half miles, stopped on a large sandbar, in the middle of the river opposite a high handsome prairie, which extendd to the hills four or five miles dis- tant, though near the bank the land is low, and subject to be overflowed. This day was exceed- ed if ! 'il LKWIS AND CLAIIk-S EXI'KDITION inKly fln. ,u„J |,l,.a.n ,t, ttHt..r,n ..(wind «„d rain ./«fr 7./._H<. had Home l,„rd Hhowern „f rain before Heven oHwl,, ,vl,en we net out We I JUHt reaeiuKl ti.e e.,.I oi' the „„nd i„l d, a!d Zt the opposite l,a„k„ „.„,„« in, „„„ „„ „ J^^' t.ml«r that we coul.l not ap;,ro,«d, it w tho^t danKer. when a «„.i,Ien H„«all, (Ton. th^ „„r^|, ea.t. Htrnek the ..oat on the Htari.,.-.,, ' Z ' ' »n.l wonld have eertainiy dashed her to , Z .,„' the »and ,„land, if the party had not leaVdTnt" the nver, and with the aid of th,. ancl^or and able Icept her oif: the waven daHhin« ove her for he apace of forty n.innten; after wtieh, the ri!er h«an.e ahnoHt ineta„taneo„„,y eai.n and Bmoolh nearly similar, hut fortunately no damatre wn- done to the boats or the loading. The wM hT .ns shifted to the southeast, we came aT he dil: tance of two n,iles, to an island on the north where we dined. One mile above, on thesame sM« of bt. Louis traded with the Ottoes and I'awaees prtTwlT'- ^""^ ""' '^ "" «te««ivelowTanT part of whieh is overflowed oecasionally the rest .8 rieh and well timbered. The wi^d a^ai„ changed to northwest by north. At seven anTa half miles, we reached the lower point of alarir^ island, on the north side. A smalfdista I^T, this pomt is a river, called by the Mah. r ^.shnahbatona. This is a considerab.e c eek le toTe aT"*"!*""" "™^> --^ ™"« Pa-t bein^ m T *"' ^'"'*^'' P'^'^ "fits course, being fifty yards wid, at the mouth. In the prames or glades, we saw wild-timothy lambs quarter, cuckleberries. and on the edges oftie 64 4 |j SI 1 ■ UP THE M1S801IKI. river, Rummer-ff rapes, plum.,, and ffooBeberrieB. We alHo Haw to-day, lor the flrHt time, Home elk, at which Home of the party Hijot, but at too ^rent a 'liKtance. We encamped on the north Hide of the inland, a little above Ninhnahbatoni* ^avingmade nine niileH. The river fell a little. July 7;T.— A thick fojf prevented our leaving the encam[)m(Mit before Heven. At about four niiicH, we reached the extremity of the larjfe iHland, and croHsin^ to the Houth, at the diHtance of Hev<'n mileH, arrived at the IJttle Nemaha, a email river from the nouth, forty yardH wide a little above itB mouth, but contracting, an do almont all the waterH emptying into the MiHHouri, at its confluence. At nine and three-quartei* miles, we encamped on a woody pouit, on thcHOuth. Along the southern bank, is a rich lowland covered with peav. > and rich weeds, and watered by small HtreaniH rising in the adjoining prairies. They too, are rich, and though with abundance of grass, have no timber excei)t what grows near the water: intersper -d through both are grape-vines, plums of two kinds, two species of wild-cherries, hazelnuts, and gooseberries. On the south there is one unbroken plain; on th) north the river is skirted with some timber, behind which the plain extends four or five miles to the hills, which seem to have little wood. July Id. — We continued our route between a large island opposite to our last night's encamp- ment, and an extensive prairie on the eouth. About six miles, we came to another large island, called Fairsun island, on the same side; above which is a spot, where aboat twenty acres of the hill have fallen into the river. Near this, is a cliff of sandstone for two miles, which is much fre- quented by birds. At this place the river is about Vol. I.-5 65 1/ ' 1/^ * I' ' ./, 11, I: '■, LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION one mile wide, but not deep; ae the timber or Bawyers may be seen scattered across the wl ole Of .ts bottom At twenty miles distance, we saw on the south, an island called by the FrenclT pra,r.e, wh.ch we called Baldpated prairie frora^ allel with the nver ar, far as we could see and from three to six miles distance. To the outh the lulls touch the river. «e encamped a quarte Of a m,le beyond this, in a point of woods on the north s,de. The river continues to fall V«^v/,,.r, J„I,y n.-W,, remained here this day >n order to umke observations and correct the chrouomete., which ran down on Sunday The latitude we found to be 40 27 r,,*,-. The ob serv,.t,on of the tin.e proved our chro;ometer too slow, by G 51A-. The highlands bear from our eamp, north a.V west, up the river. Ca"ta" Lew.s rode up the country, and saw the S nTouthT' i°"* *"' "' ''-^'^ ^-'es ftmf; mouth at a place not -uore than three hundred camp nV "'"°""' """ -^ «"'« '^"o™ "" camp. It then passes near the foot of the Bald- h. Is, and is at least si.x feet below the leve of the taken with the log, is .50 fathoms in 40", at some places, and even 20'. "■«/«..«/,■,.,•, ./„/,. 7,9.._The morning was fair and a gentle wind from southeast by south carried us along between the prairie on the north' and Bald island to the souu,: opposite the m 5: n ai^st'to ;. vr"'™."'"*""' """™«''- ^e nearest to the Missouri. The current here ran fifty fathoms in 41 •. At thirteen and a half miles we reached an island on the uorth, near to whS 6ti UP THE MISkSOURI. the banks overflow ; while on the south, the hills project over the river and tbrni high cliffs. At one point a part of the cliff, nearly three-quarters of a mile in length, and about two hundred feet in height, has fallen into the river. It is composed chiefly of sandstone intermixed with an iron ore of bad (luality ; near the bottom is a soft slate- stone with pebbles. We passed several bad sand- liars in the course of the day, and made eighteen miles, and encamped on the south, opposite to the lower point of the Oven islands. The country around is gener; y divided into prairies, with lit- tle timber, except on low points, islands, and near creeks, and that consisting of cottonwood, mul- berry, elm, and sycamore. The river falls fast. An Indian dog came to the bank ; he appeared to have been lost and was nearly starved : we gave him some food, bat he would not follow us. Tlwrsdny, July 7.9.— The Oven islands are small, and two in number ; one near the south shore, the other in the middle of the river. Opposite to them is the prairie, called Terrien's Oven, from a trader of that name. At four and a half miles, we reached some high cliffs of a yellow earth, on the south, near which are two beautiful runs of water, rising in the adjacent prairies, and one of them with a deer-lick, about two hundred yards from its mouth. In this neighbourhood we observed some iron ore in the bank Ac two and a half miles above the runs, a la portion of the hill, for nearly three-quarters of a mile, has fallen into the river. We encamped on the western extremity of an island, in the middle of the river, having made ten and three-quarter miles. The river falls a little. The sandbars which we passed to-day, are more numerous, and the rolling sands more frequent and dangerous, than any we have seen; b7 i it' It M I r »■ LEWIS AND CLAKK'S EXPEDITION these obsta<,le8 increasing a. we approach the river Platte. The Missouri here is wider also than below, where the timber on the banks resists the current; while here the prairies which approach are more easily washed and undermined. The hunters have brought for the last few days, no quadruped, but deer: great quantities of young geese are seen to-day: one of them brought caia mus, which he had gathered opposite our encamp- ment, and a large quantity of sweet-flag /««.r, Jz;/K i^^A-There was a heavy dew last night and this morning was foggy and cool. We passed at about three miles distance, a small wil- low island to the north, and a creel, on the south about twenty-five yards wide, called by the irench, L'Eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water and emptying itself just above a cliff of brown clao^. Thence we made two and a half uiiles to another island ; three miles further to a third • six miles beyond which is a fourth island; at 'the head of which we encamped on the southern shore; m all eighteen miles. The party, who wall ed on the shore to-day, found the plains to the south, rich, but much parched with frequent fires, an^ with no timber, except the scattering trees ab< .It the sources of the run«, which are numerous and fine. On the north, is a similar prairie country. The river continues to fall A large yellow wolf was this day killed For a month past the party have been troubled with biles, and occasionaiiy with the dysentery These biles were large tumours which broke out under the arms, on the legs, and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action, which somt^mes became too painful to permit the men to work. Aft-r re maining some days, they disappeared withoutany assistance, except a poultice of the bark of the pproach the ier also than s resists the h approach, mined. The bw days, no ies of young rought eaia- 3ur encamp, flag. vy dew last d cool. We a small wil- the south, led by the nng Water, f" of brown ilf miles to a third : six tid; at the e southern arty, who 5 plains to ih frequent scattering which are a similar to fall. A d. For a ibled with ry. These out under the parts 38 became Aft/^r re- thoutany rk of the TJr THE MISSOUKI. elm, or of Indian meal. This disorder, which we ascribe to the muddiness of the river water, has not affected the general health of the party, which iH quite as good, if not better, than that of the same number of men in any other situation. StiUirdny, July i^7.— We had a breeze from the southeast, by the aid of which we passed, at about ten miles, a willow island on the south, near high lands covered with timber, at the bank, and formed of limestone with cemented shells : on the opposite side is a bad sandbar, and the land near it is cut through at high water, by small channels forming a number of islands. The wind lulled at seven o'clock, and we renched, in the rain, the mouth of the great river Platte, at the distance of fourteen miles. The highhmds which had accompanied us on the south, ih: the last eight or ten miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile from the entrance of the l»latte. Cap- tains Lewis and Clark ascended the river in a peri- ogue, for about one mile, and found the current very rapid ; rolling over sands, and divided into a number of channels; none of which are deeper than five or six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who spent two winters on it, says that it spreads much more at some distance from the mouth ; that its dei)th is generally not more than five or six feet ; that there are many small islands scattered through rl, and that from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it cannot be navigated by boats or periogues, though the Indians pass it ir. small flat canoes made of hides. That the Saline or Salt river, which in some seasons is too brack- ish to be drank, falls into it from the sorth about thirty miles up, and a little above it i^Jlkhorn river from the north, running nearly parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much more 69 I I- j' 1 ' r 1 LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION rapid thai, the Missouri, the bed of which it fills w.th moving sands, and drives the current on the northern shore, on which it is constantly en! croachmg. At its junction the I'latte is about s," hundred yards wide, and the san.e nun.berof mi ^ ^om tl,e M,„„issir,„i. With much difficulty we worked round the sandbars near the mouth and came to above the point, having made fl'fte^' around t»"'"Jr' "' ^'"™' ^^'^ «""' '"'I "^'^'-d around us in the evening. hn't^f f'~~7^^ f^""* "'^^'""^^ we «et sail, and having found at the distance often miles from the 1 latte, a high and shaded situation on the north 8 te observations, and to send for the neighbour- tTe InftTS^ I" '^'' ^^overnment, and the wish of the Lnited btates to cultivate their iriendship. ■ 70 'i»:- ■e grapes; and one of our men caught a white catfish, the eyes of which were small, and its tail resembling that of a dol- 71 i f i 1 I r' m ■ LKWIS AND fJLAUK'.S KXI'KWTJON Phin. The present seMon is that in which the mio, but m we discovered some hunters traclts and observed the plains on Are in the diri.ioT of the,r villages, we hoped that they might have re turned to gather the green Indian corn a^d therefore despatelml two n„.„ to the Ott, es or Pawnee villages with a present oltobaico " d an alter two days absence. Their first course was through an open prairie to the south, in wMch they crossed iiutterfly creek. They then reachodt small beautiful river, cailcl Don.e'^de Oerf Tr Hk htt le below the Ottoe village into the I'la te about forty-five miles from our camp. Thev fresh tracks of a small party. The Ottoes were once a powerful nation, and lived about twr^ mles above the Platte, on the southern baTof the Missouri. Being reduced, they migrated to th. neishbou bood of the Pawn^s, uLef wrs:;fo! tection they now live. Their village is on the t»"mo:'tt:'"*AV-"'"^' ''''O"* ^"'-^ ""-f™" its mouth ; and their number is two hundred men .ncludingaboutthirty families of Missouri ZZZ' who are incorporated with them. Five leagues ttn^tioroV^'p '"^ ^"""^ "''" "'■ *'"' ^'-' S the nation of Pawnees. This people were among the most numerous of the Missouri Indians but have gradually been dispersed and broken Td even since the year 1797, have undergone some sensjblechanges. Theynow consist of four band" the first IS the one just mentioned, of about five hundred men, to whom of late y;ars have been 72 i ; 8 HP THE MISSOURI. added the second band, who are called republican I'fivvnees, from their having lived on the repub- lican branch of the river Kanzas, whence they emigrated to join the principal band of Pawnees : the republican ''awnees amount to nearly two hundred and fifty men. The third, are the i*aw- nees Loups, or Wolf I'awnees, who reside on the Wolf fork of the Platte, about ninety miles from the principal Pawnees, and number two hundred and eighty men. The fourth band originally re- sided on the Kanzas and Arkansaw, but in their wars with the Osages, they were so often defeated, that they at last retired to their present position on the lied river, where they form a tribe of four hundred men. All these tribes live in villages, and raise corn; but during the intervals of culture rove in the plains in quest of buffalo. Beyond them on the rivor, and westward of the lilack mountains, are the Kaninaviesch, consisting of about four hundred men. They are supposed to have emigrated originally from the Pawnees nation; but they have degenerated from the im- provements of the parent tribe, and no longer live in villages, but rove through the plains. Still further to the westward, are several tribes, who wander and hunt on the sources of the river Platte, and thence to Rock Mountain. These tribes, of which little more is known than the names and the population, are first, the Staitan, or Kite Indians, a small tribe of one hundred men. They have acquired the name of Kites, from their flying ; that is, their being always on horseback ; and the smallness of their numbers is to be at- tributed to their extreme ferocity; they are the most warlike of all the western Indians; they never yield in battle; they never spare their ene- mies; and the retaliation of this barbarity has 73 i ' « l-mvl.S AM, chAHKW |.;XI'i;i>iTI()N «ImoHt extingui-h,.! the nation. Thou come th, ^^Liier, .inu aiuoundiiir (o twn ii„,wj.. i J)of«n. ^1 "' H,H'eiity-iive men, and the to l>o tlu. ronuiantH of the (ireat Padcuca nat on won, vm'.:,'; ..r.. n ; , r;; rtv^;r""-, t,"^'^ lived on tlu» k... *-;"" "t» m l<24, and then "vtu on tne Kanzan rivor Thi^ ««.,.+„ i • i , "ois not now <..x,„t ,.v..n the n.inic. ■I'lly -'r.-II,,vinjv ••onipletwl the ohiwt of n„r >y HpnnKH: thnn, n.iloH ii.rther in n „ " 1^ 'Hl'i'Hl, ,„ the nmhlle of the river- tl o iZl n mm the largest being nearest tlie river These TthfoToft/'" '"'''"°" °"'- --'»i v„a^ 74 TIP THE MISSOTTUr. July 2S.—M one mile, thin morning we reached a bhifl; on the north, being the flrHt highlandH, which approach the river on that Hide, Hince we left the Nodawa, Above thiH, in an inland and a creek, abont fifteen yardH wide, which, aH it Iuih no name, we called Indian Knob creek, from a nnmber of round knobH bare of timber, on the hij^^hlandH, to the north. A little below the bluff, on the north, Ih the npot where the Ayauway IndiauH formerly lived. They were a branch of the OttoeH, and emigrated from thiH place to the river Desraoines. At ten and three-quarter miles, we encamped on the north, oppoHite an inland, in the middle of the river. IMie land, generally, on the north, consiHts of lil^li prairie and hillH, with tim- ber: on the Houth, low and covered with cotton- wood. Our hunter brougbt to uh in the evening, n iMiHHouri Indian, whom he had found, with two otherH, drcHHing an elk they were perfectly friendly, gave him Home of the meat, and one of them agreed to accompany him to the boat. He is one of the few remaining MiBBouriH, who live with the Ottoes: he belongs to a small party, whose camp is four miles Irom the river; and he says, that the body of the nation is now hunting buffalo in the plains: he appeared quite sprightly, and his language resembled that of the Osage, particularly in his calling a chief, Inca. We sent him back with one of our party next morning, SuncJay, July 20, with an invitation to the In- dians, to meet us above on the river, and then pro- ceeded. We soon came to a northern bend in the river, which runs within twenty yards of Indian Knob creek, the water of which is five feet higher than that of the Missouri. In less than two miles, we passed Boyer's creek on the north, of twenty- five yards width. We stopped to dine under a 75 If k IV II II ;f ij til r.i;«I.S AM) CLAHKS KXPKDITION and all very fat Ahnl *■ • .. ' """"'y ^h'te. panned the river ob,i,„e,;r,„Tw "^'o T"" and tore up larire tree« Hnm» ->r u- J ' '^'• "".".d. and four (eetrdiaTr *"'" P'"*'"'^ near the groimd \VV ''T ' '^''"' ™"^''l'«> <>«" onthenor,^^ :1J';r:f„ " 7""" *" " ^"o" is much mor^IrooLT V"'^'"""*'- T'i« »liseourl I'-atte, tho„:h"::tii,;':;: - ~ *'-' ''™' more of prairie with i„ ^ ^V ,"'S' ""» «« rapid ; in the low «rou'„r atr . m' "."" ''"""""'ood in ordi to^:Hirt'';'zr Tiir' rr*-' oonrists of a plain above th.i^' ''""' '"*'■« "Oil of Which irLnrr !? '"«""■'''«"• '^vel, the ini.ji jH lertile, and covered wt+h « from five to eight feet hi,.i, • ! *^'''^'' eopse« of large Wum„ and? '"^^'XV-'^A with the IJuited stater It lof ?"*' '"'•' *''™'' "f hone,™c.<,e; o: «i:.:tvr'a w^Trrf common about Harrod.burgh (K^ntucL t. ' otiier is not so hiu-h • tli„ «,., ("-entucky), the are short, ami of i T. f' ^°'' '" <^'''«t«'-«. too, are distinct r„^. "'"" '°'°"'' '"-e leaves a« do those of the "°* '''"'""'^ *''"»*»"<. United Ces"'^;:?^ ptr""" "''^^ the lowlr "Z ^'""P: . ™^ ""^^ «^Parates withgrlss rteu I^r",™'™' "f'^SOod quality, -^^^j^b^Zt^rvtiirrdt /6 S ; UP THE MISSOURI. adjoining country. At a distance, varying from four to ten raileB, and of a height between seventy and three hundred feet, two parallel ranges of highland affords a passage to the Missouri, which enriches the low grounds between them. In its winding course, it nourishes the willow islands, the scattered cottonwood, elm, sycamore, lynn, and ash, and the groves are interspersed with hickory, walnut, eoffeenut, and oak. July 57.— The meridian altitude of this day made the latitude of our camp 41^ 18 l^V- '^'^^ hunters supplied us with deer, turkeys, geese, and beaver; one of the last was caught alive, and in a very short time was perfectly tamed. (Cattish are very abundant in the river, and we have also seen a buffalo fish. One of our men brought in yester- day an animal called, by ; 3 Pawnees, chocar- toosh, and, by the French, blaireau, or badger The evening is cool, yet the mosquitoes are still very troublesome. We waited with much anxiety the return of our messenger to the ( >ttoes. The men whom we despatched to our last encampment, returned without having seen any appearance of its having been visited. Our horses too had strayed ; but we were so fortunate as to recover them at the dis- tance of twelve miles. Our apprehensions were at length relieved by the arrival of a party of about fourteen Ottoe and Missouri Indians, who came at sunset, on the second of August, accompanied by a Frenchman, who resided among them, and in- terpreted for us. Captains Lewis and Clark went out to meet them, and told them that we would hold a council in the morning. In the mean time we sent them some roasted meat, pork, fiour, and meal ; in return for which they made us a present of watermelons. We learnt that our man Liberte 77 li ! I r LEWIS AND CLABK'S EXPEDITION tf J'?"*,""™ *'"'"' """P " ""^ '«eech, ^ t ht \ur ^ T ^imn^e m the ^^overnment: their honPM fhnf .Wer;::rr:Soreir„ro:r customary mode of reco,.n.i„,. I c ieibeW t abroad Vj, \Tu " P™"*" «f '"» consideration abroad. fc«h of these medals was aecomDanie.1 oT;o^d^:'rh;'ttro;:,:;z;rdr^ '^ -^-" to the whoie, Which ap,reTtrlt ^m ^r! (8 UP THE MIS80UUI. fpctlv Hat.Bflefl. The air-Kun too was ttrnl, and aHtoriHhed them greatly. The abHrnt grand chiet wuH an Ottoe, named WeahruHhhah, which, in KngUHh, degenerates into Little ^'^'lief. The two nriiicipal chiettainH present wer.>, Nhongotongo, or lUg lIorHe; and Wetliea, or HoHpitality ; alHo ShoHguHcan, or Wliite llorne, an Ottoe; tlieilrnt an Ottoe tho H(('ond a MiHsouri. The incidents jU8t related, induced uh to give to this place the name of the (Jounci'.-blutt'; the situation of it is exceed- i.uriy favourable for a fort and trad.iig factory, as the soil is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the neighbourhood, and the air being pure and healthy. It is also central to the chief resorts of the Indians: one days iourney to the Ottoes ; one and a half to t' great Vawnees; two days irom the Mahas; two and a quarter from the Pawnees Loups village; con- venient to the hunting grounds of the Sioux; »nd twenty-tive days journey to Santa Fee. The ceremonies cf the •»uncil being concluded, we set sail in the afternoon, and encamped at the distance of live miles, on the south side, where we found the mosquitoes very troublesome. Ui'rus' 4.— A violent wind, accompanied by rain ''purified and cooled the atmosphere last niirht- we proceeded early, and reached a very narroW part of the river, where the channel is confined within a space of two hundred yards, by a sand point on the north, and a bend on the south- the banks in the neighbourhood washing away,' the trees falling in, and the channel tilled with buried logs. Above this is a trading house, on the south, where one of our party passed two years, trading with the Mahas. At nearly four miles, is a creek on the south, emptying opposite a large island of eand ; between this creek and our 79 Ill i JT LEWIS AND CLAKK'S EXPEDITION iMt night's encampment, the river has changed Its bed and encroached on the southern shore About two miles further, is another creek on the south, which, like the former, is the outlet of "nree ponds, communicating with each other, and form- ing a small lake, which is fed by streams fron the s^u ''"Thet*.,''*"^'^ "^ encamped r the south, ihe hills on both sides of the river are nearly twelve or fifteen miles from each other the"t-n *f :r ^^ '=•"'*'''""'« -■»« «n.ber, whne the hills of the south are without any co erino. except some scattering wood in the ravines Ind near where the creeks pa.s into the hilU rich t7:::^rr'7 """''^'"^ *"<' interm^i^t space, and partially covered, near the water with Cottonwood. The;e has been agreat deaTof pnmice-stone on the shore to-day August S.-We set out early. u„d, by means of onr oirs, made twenty and a half mils though the nver was crowded with sandbars. On bofh sides the prairies extend along the river;the banks being coverea with great quantities of grapercf which t.iree different species are now ™;^e large and resembling the jmrple grape We had some rain -is morning, attended by^ghwi„d but generally speaking, have remark^ thatlhut' states, at this season. Snakes too are less fre quent though we killed one to-day o? 'he sha^ »e ft.TCd our camp on the north side In the evening. Captain Clark, :n pursuing some game .n an eastern direction, (bund himself at the d"s camp at a ■;::':"'/::' *"<■ ^-^^"'^ ^-•'^ f-™- * « camp, at a point of the river whence we had 'ome twelve miles. When the water is high, this penta «ula IS overflowed, and judging from the custom- SO UP THE MISSOURI. ary and notorious changes in the river, a lew years will be sufficient to force the main -urrent of the river across, and leave the great bend dry. The whole lowland between the parallel range of hills seems formed of mud or ooze of the river, at gome former period, mixed with sand and clay. The sand of the neighbouring banks accumulates with the aid of that brought down the stream, and forms sandbars, projecting into the river; these drive the channel to the opposite banks, the loose texture of which it undermines, and at length deserts its ancient bed for a new and shorter passage; it is thus that the banks of the Missouri are constantly falling, and the river changing its bed. August C— In the morning, after a violent storm of wind and rain from N. W. we passed a large island to the north. In the channel separating it from the shore, a creek called Soldier's river enters; the island kept it from our view, but one of our men who had seen it, represents it as about forty yards wide at its mouth. At five miles, we came to a bend of the river towards the north, a sandbar, running in from the south, had turned its course so as to leave the old channel quite dry. We again saw the same appearance at our encampment, twenty and a half miles distant on the north side. Here the channel of the river had encroached south, and the old bed was without water, except a few ponds. The sandbars are still very numerous. August 7.— We bad another storm from the N. W. in the course of the last evening; in the morn- ing we proceeded, having the wind from the north, and encamped on the northern shore, having rowed seventeen .niles. The river is here encum- bered witli sandbars, but no islands, except two Vol. 1.-6 81 ■' I i I :' •I! LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION small ones, called Detachment islands, and formed on the south side by a small stream. We despatched four men back to the Ottoes vil- lage in quest of our man, Liberte, and to appre- hend one of the soldiers, who left us on the 4th under pretence of recovering a knife which he had dropped a short distance behina, and who we fear has deserted. We also sent small presents to the Ottoes and Missouris, and requested that they would join us at the Maha village, where a peace might be concluded between them. August cS'.-At two miles distance, this morning we came to a part of the river, »vhere there was concealed timber difficult to pass. The wind was from the N. W. and we proceeded in safety. At SIX miles, a river empties on the northern side called by the Sioux Indians, Eaneahwadepon or otone river; and by the French, Petite Riviere des Sioux, or Little Sioux river. At its confluence it IS eighty yards wide. Our interpreter, Mr. Durion who has been to the sources of it, and knows the adjoining country, says that it rises within about nine miles of the river Desmoines; that wHhin fifteen leagues of that river it passes through a large lake nearly sixty miles in circumference, and divided into two parts by rocks which approach each other very closely: its width is various- it contains many islands, and is known by the name of the Lac d'Esprit: it is near the Dog-plains, and within four days march of the Mahas. The coun- try watered by it, is open and undulating, and may be visited in boats up the river for .naie u s- tance. The Desmoines, he adds, is about eigi ;y yards wide where the Little Sioux river ap- proaches it: it is shoaly, and one of its rrincipa! branches is called Cat river. Two mil^s^ In^vond this river is a long island which w^^caiha j eiictii 82 i w^ ' i I nm mmvmm!$9imm^^mimif^''ff'^ts!ssss. UP THE MISSOURI. •oinnd from the numbers of that animal which l?eldin" on it: one of these being killed, we poured in^o his bag five gallons of water. An elk too was shot, and we had again to remark that Huakes are rare in this part of the Missouri. A Iridian altitude near the Little Sioux river made the latitude 4r 42 84'. We encamped on the north having come sixteen miles. \wmst f>.-A thick fog detained us until past seven o'clock, after which we proceeded with a gentle breeze from the southeast. After passing two sandbars we reax^hed, at seven and a halt mHcs, a point of highland on the left, near which The river has forced itself a channel across . peninsula, leaving on the right a circuit of t^^eve or eighteen miles, which is now recogmzed by tne ponds and islands it contains. At seventeen and a half miles, we reached a point on the norta, where we encamped. The hills are at a great dis- tance from the river for the last several days; the land on both sides low, and covered with cotton- wood and abundance of grape vines. An elk was seen to-day, a turkey also shot, and near our cLp is a beaver den: the mosquitoes have been more troublesome than ever for the two last days. August lO.-Kt two and a half miles, we came to a plax^e, called Uoupee a Jacques, where the river has found a new bed, ai.d abridged a circuit of several miles: at twelve and a '..alf miles a cliff of yellow stone on the left. ^ his is the first high- land near the river above the Co. icil-blutf After passing a number of sandbar^ we reached a wil- low island at the cHstance of t. enty-two and a half miles, which we wer . ...bled tc do with our oars and a wind li-om the S. W. and encamped on the north side. xi xr w August ii.- -After a violent wind from the N. W. 83 LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION II ^ m T. attended with rain, we Hailed along the right of the iHland. At nearly live niileH, we halted on the south side for the imrpose of* e araining a spot where one of the great ehiefs of the M alias named lUai'kbird, who died about four years ago of the Bmall-pox, was buried. A hill of yellow soft sand- Htone rises from the river in bluffs of various heights, till it ends in a knoll about three hun- dred feet above the water; on the top of this a mound, of twelve feet diameter at the base and six feet high, is raised over the body of the de- ceased king; a pole of about eight feet high is fixed in the centre; on which we placed a white flag, bordered with red, blue, and white. The Blackbird seems to have been a personage of great vionsideration ; for ever since his death he is sup- plied with provisions, from time to time, by the superstitious regard of the Mahas. We descended to the river and passed a miall creek on the south, called, by the Mahas, Waucandipeeche, (Great Spirit is bad.) Near this creek and the adjoining hills the Mahas had a village, and lost four hundred of their nation by the dreadful n- V which destroyed the Blackbird. The me- r n altitude made the latitude i2 1 '6^%" nui We encamped, at seventeen miles distance, on the north side in a bend of the river. During our da 's course it has been crooked ; we observed a number of places in it where the old channel is filled up, or gradually becoming covered with wil- low and Cottonwood; great numbers of herons are observed to-day, and the mosquitoes annoy us very much. August IJ.—A gentle breeze from the south, carried us along about ten miles, when we r-'< jpvA to take a meridian altitude, and sent a an across to our place of observation : yesterday he 84 UP THE MISSOUBI. „,™ned nine hundred and eeventy-four yards and w dttance we had come round, waH eighteen „iea andThree-quarU-rn. The river i« wider and hi, ower than usual, l-our uuleB l,eyond h„ "a hlu«- begins, and «""«■"'- -™™,™';:; on the south it rises from the water at d,fferer>t heights, from twenty to one hundred and fifty fi^t and higher as it recedes on the river : it con- tt's o" y "ow and brown clay, with soft sand- ;"me VmLlded in it, and is covered witli timber among which may be observed some red cedar the lands on the opposite side are low and subject to in ndation, Imt contain willows, cottonwood and many grapes. A prairie-wolf came near the bank and ifarked at us; we attemp'*d unsuccess- Jy to take him. This part of the river abounds In beaver. We encamped on a sand-island in a bend tithe north, having made twenty miles and "^^'i-l-Set out at daylight with a breeze fro^Ce southeast, and passed several saiidbas^ Between ten and eleven miles, we e-J t<>J^J°* on the south, where a Mr. Mackay h*^-! a t~ establishment in the year 17'.).. and l'l»fi. ^hich he called Fort Charles. At ^on^^^ ^^^"^^Z reached a creek on the south, on which ^i^^^^^ reside and at seventeen miles and a quarter, « a cann> on a sandbar, to the -nth ^.de o the river, opposite the lower P"'"* "' ^ '"^^^ island I'rom this pla«e sergeant Ordway and four men were detached to the Maha village with a flag and a present, in order to induce them to :ome'and hold a council with us. They retu^n^d at twelve o'clock the next day, August 14. After :rossing a prairie covered with h.^' S'-«. t^ey reached the Maha creek, along which they pro c^^ to its three forks, which join near the vil- 85 ■i !'' LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION lapre: they croHsed the i_rth branch and went along the Houth ; the walk was very fatiguing, as they were forced to break their way through grass, sunflowers and thistles, all aboVe ten feet high, and interspersed with wild pea. Five miles from our camp they reached the position of the ancient Maha village: it had once consisted of three hundred cabins, but was burnt about four years ago, soon after the smallpox had destroyed four hundred men, and a proportion of women and children. On a hill, in the rear of the village, are the graves of the nation ; to the south of which runs the fork of the Maha creek: this they crossed where it was about ten yards wide, and followed its course to the Missouri, passing along a ridge of hill for one and a half mile, and a long pond between that and the Missouri : they then recrossed the Maha creek, and arrived at the camp, having seen no tracks of Indians nor any sign of recent cultivation. Jn the morning inth, some men were sent to examine the cause of a large smoke from the northeast, and which seemed to indicate that some Indians were near; but they found that a small party, who had lately passed that way. had left some trees burning, and that the wind from that quarter blew the smoke directly towards us : Our camp lies about three miles northeast from the old Afaha village, and is in latitude 42^ 13' 41". The accounts we have had of the effects of the smallpox on that nation are most distressing; it is not known in what way it was first com- municated to them, though probably by some war party. They had been a military and powtrfu' people; but when these warriors saw their strength wasting before a malady which they could not resist, cheir frenzy was extreme; they 80 ,,x^ : -;iw.- UP THE Miftftcniiu. burnt their village, and many of them put to death their wiveH and children, to save them from HO cruel an altiiction, and that all might go to- gether to some better country. On the 1 ()th, we still waited for the Indians : a party had gone out yesterday to the Maha creek, which was dammed up by the beaver between the camp and the village: a second went to-day. They nv de a kind of drag with small willows and bark, and swept the creek: the first company brought three hundred and eighteen, the second upwards of eight hundred, consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon, trout, redhorse, buffalo, one rockHsh, one fiatbaek, perch, catfish, a small species of perch called, on the Ohio, silverfish, a shrimp of the same size, shape and flavour of those about New Orleans, and the lower part of the Mississippi. We also found very fat muscles; and on the river as well as the creek, - -e different kinds of ducks and plover. The wind, which in the morning had been from the northwest, shifted round in the evening to the southeast, and as usual we had a breeze, which cooled the air and relieved us from the mosquitoes, who generally give us great trouble. Friday 1 T.— The wind continued from the south- east, and the morning was fair. We observe about us a grass resembling wheat, except that the grain is like rye, also some similar to both rye and barley, and a kind of timothy, the seed of which branches from the main stock, and is more like a flaxseed than a timothy. In the evening, one of the party sent to the Ottoes, re- turned v.ith the information that the rest were coming on with the deserter: they had also caught Liberte, but, by a trick, he made his escape . they were bringing three of the chiefs in order to en- 87 Is ; n LEWI8 AND n.AHK'S KXPEDITION ff /, i.O I.I 1.25 im 14 llllii.6 V ^ O/W. Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 # ,\ q v «. ^^ :\ \ ^^v^ rv^ ^^. ^^.% WiiS. s S I: iW^(0ttKm¥-' t' . J^ fi' LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION village with our horseH, and who brought us two deer. Tht bluffs or hillH which reach the river at thii. pla^e, on the south, contain alum, copperas, cobalt which had the appearance of soft isinglass,' pyrites, and sandstone, the two first very pure. Above this bluff comes in a small creek on the south, which we call Rologe creek. Seven miles above is another cliff, on the same side, of alum rock, of a dark brown colopr, containing in its crevices great quantities of cobalt, cemented shells, and red earth. From this the river bends to the eastward, and approaches the Sioux river within three or four miles. We sailed the greater part of the day, and made nineteen miles to our camp on the north side. The sandbars are as usual numer- ous: there are aiso considerable traces of elk; but none are yet seen. Captain Lewis in proving the quality of some of the substances in the first clifl", was considerably injured by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, and took dome strong medicine to relieve him from its eflTects. The appearance of these mineral substances enable us to account for disorders of the stomach, with which the party had been affected since they left the river Sioux. We had been in the habit of dipping up the water of the river inadvertently and making use of it, till, on examination, the sickness was thought to proceed from a scum covering the surface of the water along the southern shore, and which, as we now discovered, proceeded from these bluffs. The men had been ordered, before we reached the bluffs, to agitate the water, so as to disperse the scum, and take the water, not at the surface, but at some depth. The consequence was, that these disorders ceasea : the biles too which had afflicted the men, were not observed beyond the Sioux river. In order to supply the place of sergeant 92 UP THE MISSOURI. Floyd, we permitted the men to name three per- Bons, and Patrick Gass having the greatest num- ber of votes wras made a sergeant. August 2S.—We set out early, and at four miles came to a small run between cliffs of yellow and blue earth: the wind, however, soon changed, and blew so hard from the west, that we proceeded very slowly; the fine sand from the bar being driven in such clouds, that we coald scarcely see. Three and a quarter miles beyond this run, we came to a willow island, and a sand island oppo- site, and encamped on the south side, at ten and a quarter miles. On the north side is an extensive and delightlul prairie, which we called Buffalo prairie, from our having here killed the first buf falo. Two elk swam the river to-day and were fired at, but escaped : a deer was killed from the boat; one beaver was killed; and several prairie wolves were seen. August 24.— It began to rain last night, and continued this morning: we proceeded, however, two and a quarter miles, to the commencement of a bluff of blue clay about one hundred and eighty, or one hundred and ninety feet on the south side: it seems to have been lately on fire ; and evoa now the ground is so warm that we cannot k d our hands in it at any depth : there are st ^ ap- pearances of coal, and also great quan. cies of cobalt, or a crystallized substance resembling it. There is a fruit now ripe which looks like a cur- rant, except that it is double the size, and grows on a bush like a privy, the size of a damson, and of a delicious flavour ; its Indian name means rab- bit-berries. We then passed, at the distance of about seven miles, the mouth of a creek on the north side, called by an Indian name, meaning Whitestone river. The beautiful prairie of yes- 93 I LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION tcrday, has changed into one of greater height, and very smooth and extensive. We encamped on the south side, at ten and a quarter miles, and found ourselves much annoyed by the mosquitoes. hi - 1 1^ I 94 UP THE MISSOURI. CHAPTER III. Whimsical instance of superstition of the S*oiix Indians— Coun- cil L3ld with the Sioux— Character of that tribe, theh: man- ners, Ac— A ridiculous instance of their heroism -Ancient fortifications— Quicurre river described— Vast herds of Buffalo —Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog— Narrow escape of Georffo Shannon — Description of "White river — Surprising fleetness of the Antelope— Pass the river of the Sioux— De- scription of the Grand Le Tour, or Great Bend-Encamp on the Teton river. August i?.5.- Captains Lewis and Clark, with ten men, went to see an object deemed very extra- ordinary nu> rain (Ml. \\V |„„| kilN'd u duck and ncvoral hirdH: in tho boat, they luid canjilit Honio larjiv catlisli. Sun,i.;y, Ani^nst, 1V;.-\\V rrjoiricd the boat at nine oVIork bHbro she. nc't out. and then paHsin^ b.v nn island, and nmh'r a clitf on the sonth nearly ♦wo niks in ext(>nt and con.poHed oC white mid l)hie earth, eneauiped at nine n.ileH v An^nisf 1V-— 'fhe morning- star appeared much lar^-er than usual. A ^.-entle breeze from the Houtheast carried us by st>ine lar^e nandbars, on both hides and in the middle of the river, to a bluff, on the south side, at seven and a halt niiles distant: this blulfis of white clay or chalk, under which is much stone, like time, incrusted with a clear substance, supposed to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set the prairie on lire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a iialf i. Ill' TIIK MISSOIIIII. milcH, we had paHHcd HcvMTnl other HundhjirH, and now reached the mouth of a river eaMed hy the Kreiieh rIncciueK (.h«.meH river) or Yankton, from the tribe which inhal)itH itH hankH. It in about ninety yardH wide at the conlhience: the country *v\'hich it waterH iH rich prairi(>, with little tiniber: it iKH'omeH dee|»er and wider above itM mouth, and may be nav!Mat»'d a ^reat diHlance. aH itH HourccH riHC near thoHe of St. IVtern, ot the MiHHJHHiiipi, and the red river of hike WinniiM'^. Ah we came to the mouth of tlie river, an Indian Hwam to tlie boat; and, on onr binding, we were met by two otherH, who informed uh that a lar^c; body of Sioux were encamped near uh: tliey accompanied three oi" our men, with an invitation to meet uh at a Hpot above the river: the third Indian re- mained with uh: he Ih a Maha boy, and Hayn that hiH nation have jjjone to the Pawneen to make I»eace with tliem. At fourteeii niileH, we encamped on a Handbar to the north. Tlie air waH cool, the evening pleaHant, the wind from the HoutheaHt, and li^ht. The river hay fallen gradually, and in now low. Tiwsil:i,\\ L*Sl}i.—\\\\ paHHed, with a Htitt" breeze from the Houth, Heveral wandbarH. On the Houth in a prairi(^ which rincH '"r lually from the water to the height of a blutf", , jich Ih, at four milen distance, of a whitish colour, and about seventy or eighty feet high. Further on is another bluff', of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of eight and a half miles is the be- ginning of Calumet bluff, on the south side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful plain, to wait t he arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the young Indian left us and joined their camp. Before reaching Calumet bluff one of the periogues rau upon a log in the river, and was rendered un- • i'l^^ IJ:\VIS AM) CLAICK'S KXI'MDITIOX (It for Hcrvln.; ho tlint nil our In and I)o.vh. \\v nent a boat lor them, and the.v joined MH.'aN r«eant I'rvor reported that on reaehin«- (heir village, whieh' in at twelve miles distance Ironi our eamp. he was nn t by a party with a burfalo rol)e. on whieh (hey des'ir<'d toearrv their visi{ors: an honour whieh' they de- clined, inlormiu^- the Indians that the.y were not the eommanders of the boats: as a ^n-e'at mark of re.-peet. the.v were then presen(e(l wi(h a liit do)^r, already cooked, of whieh they partook hear(ily. and found it well llavoured. The eampsoftiie Sioux are of a conical Ibrm, covered wi(h bulliilo robes, painted with various lij-ures and colours, with an aperture in the top for the smoke to pass , through. The lodj-es contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior arrangement is compact and handsonus . -h lody;e having- a place foi- cooking detached from it. Au^rjjst .'tath.-Thursday. The fog was so thick that we could not see the ludiau eamp on the 100 I vv Tiff-: Mfssoncr. oppoHitc Hitlr. hut it cleared od" nlnnil ei^ht o'eldck. We luepun-d a M|Mtrli. and HoinepreMeiifM, and then neiit lor the elilelH leaHed. Their muHh-al iuHtrumentH were the drum, and a Hort of lit<^le ba^ made of buffalo hide, drcHHcd white, with Hmall Hhot or pebbk'H in it, and a bunch of hair tied to it. Thin producew a Hort of rattling;- muHic, with which the party was annoyed by four niuHieians during the council this niornin/jj. August St.— In the morning, alter breakfast, the chiefs met, and sat down in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented, and all pointed to- 101 I ^pfev,-^^::.--:;: [ ! ff^ M<:wrs AND CLAKKS KM'IODITIO.V v'nr.lH t!i<. HPatM IntvuM Ibr ( /„.hunH l..wiHM„d (lark. Uh.M tiM.y an. :•{ himI wm- Hr/it,,!. the «:ran.iv<'«ial. tJM'.v ivoidd Mivc Hoincthinj.- t<. thos' poor |U">p|,.. <„. i,.t then. M(M» and trrdo wi:'. .he lirnt •M»at which con.cH np the river. I will hr.'.^r (.hiefH • •»rtlH' j'awneeM and MahaA together, an J make peace l>etw,>en then.: hut it is better that I Hhonid uro very poor." Another chief, called !'awnawneal:p/ihbe, then Mnid : 1 am a youiiji: man, aiid know !mi( litth': I can- not Hpeak well; hut I liave !iHtenenn. oppoHKv (he npper exf nunnie JHland. and x'iiiM' Ihree niileH Ihun tlu «' of (he ••<'"! i(.v <>(• |{„n. wall oonipoHem nyor and ninninM- in a, dim-t tl HH wall or nionnd nin(>(y-Hix .vardH: (he I IH Hev MiHe of iH'iM-ht ahout eiKh(. |(, then d «'nt.v-(lve (irt. and its S. Ni W and ivei •«<'N in a eonrwe <'♦'!»< li to th,. diH( «'«»n(inne« at (he same luM^ht a.id <«nj;le hein«- (brined hy a hI '»nee oV lllty-three .vards, the opin^- dcHeent; at the .v two nearly .e.nieirenlar walln I ee »-»oiv It Jo wer than (lu« large walls; and In n. the Mate way there .HMnn to Imve heen a e,>yered way onununieating- with the inierval hetween t e two walls: westward of the gate, the wal ,e eoni^ much larger, being ahont one Inuuh-^nu^ hvo ret^t at its hase. and twelve (eet high t end of this high ground the wall extends (briilt stvm to have l;«d a donhle or eoyered way they nre trom ten to lifteen leet eight inehes in hHght and trom seyeuty-live to one hundred and ii.e i'et 108 il VV Tin: MIHHOIIItl. in v/i(lili at tlio l)aH('; tlio dcHccnt invvurdH boin^ HtcH'p, vvhilHt oiitw/irdH it IbrriiH a Hort oi' ^hwAH. At th(^ (liHtaiu'o ()(■ Hcvcnty-thn'C" yanlH, the wall VIUU alMMIptl.V »>t H iMTKt' liollow pl/M'C iiiiicli lowci' than the ^:('n('^ll level oltlu^ plain, niid rn)m which Ih Hoine indication oCa covered way to the wnter. The Hjuico hetwcH'n theni Ih occupied by Hc^venil nioundH Hcattered pronuHcnouHly throHKh the jfoW, in tluM-entre of which Ih n, deep round hole. I'Voni the extremity of the lant wall, in a courHo N. .*{2 VV. Ih a. diHtance ol' ninety-Hix yanlH over the low ground, where the wall recotnrncMH-eH and croHHCH the plain in a conrHe N. Si W. for eighteen hundred and thirty yardH to the bank (»f the MIh- Houri. In tluH courHc itH height 'h about ei^ht leet, till it enterH, at the diHtanc(^ of live hundn^d Hnd thirty-three yardH. a ,^ and eJMlit liundred yardn wide; we killed four of them. We then reHumed ourcoi'irne, and during- live and a half niilew paHHed two iHlandH on the north, and then encamped at the diHtance of Hixteen niilew, on the Kouth side of the river, and juHt above a Huiall run. The mornin^^ had been cloudy, but in the afternoon it bej?an rainin^r, with a hijrh north wcHt wind, which con- tinued durinj.? the greater part of the nij?ht. The country neen to-day couHiHtH of narrow Htrips of lowland, riHin^ into uneven «roundH, which are Hucceeded, at the distance of three mi lew, by rich and level i)lain8, but without any tind)er. The river itnelf in wide, and crowded .vith wand bars. Elk, deer, squirrels, a pelican, and a very large porcupine, were our game this day; Home foxes too were seen, but iiot caught. In the morning we observed a man riding on horseback down towards the boat, and we were much ideased to lind that it was (ieorge ^Shannon, one of our party, for whose safety we had beeii very uneasy. Our two horses having strayed from us on the 2r)th of August, he was sent to search for them. Alter he had found them he at- tempted to rejoin us, but seeing some other tracks, whicii must have been those of Indians, and which he mistook for our own, he concluded that we were ahead, and had been for sixteen days fol- lowing the I uik of the river above us. During the first four days he exhausted his bullets, and was then nearly starved, being obliged to subsist, IIG UP TPIF3 Xfissonitr. ft. or twelve dayH, ,>„ a finv ^rrapos, and a rahWt which ho killHl by ...akin^. uho of a hard pure of I Z ? ';'"'; ''"' "' '•'" '""•"•'« *^"^^« ""t, and was left hehnul; th. other he kept an a lunt re- Houree ft.r fo<,d. DeHpairinKr „r overtaking uh, be waH returning down the river, in hopen of nuvtlni. Home other boat; and wan on the point of killing' luH horHe, when ho waH bo fortnnate an to join uh IU'.///.,sy/.-/r, .SV/>f,.,///>er 7l'.-The dav wan dark and elondy; the wind from the northwest. At a Hh<,rt diHtance we reach(Hl an island in the middle oJ the river, which is covered with timber, a rare obje<.t now. We with great difficulty wereenabled to Htruj^ffle tlirou^^h the sandbarH, the water being very rapid nm\ shallow, ho that we were He vera I h()nrH in making a mile. Several timen the boat wheeled on the bar, and the men were obliged to jump out and prevent her from upsetting; at otliers, after making a way up one channel, the HhoalnesH of the water forced us back to neek the deep channel. We advanr only four miles in the whole day and encamped on .he south. Along both Hides of the river are high grounds ; on the southern side particularly, they form dark blufTn, in which may be observed slate and coal inter- mixed. We saw also several villages of barking- squirrels; great numbers of grouse, and three foxes. September 7-7, Thursdny.-We made twelve miles to-day through a number of sandbars, which make it difficult to find the proper channel. The hills on each side are high, and separated from the river by a narrow plain on its boi ^ers. On the north, these lowlands are covered in part with timber, and great quantities of grapes, which are now ripe: on the south we found plenty of plums but they are not yet ripe; and near the dark 117 I 'A ; 'i I^^Ki LEWIS AND CLAUK'S EXPEDITION bluffs, a run tainted with alum and copperas ; the southern side being more strongly impregnated . with minerals than the northern. Last night four beaver were caught in the traps; a porcupine was shot as it was upon a cottontree, feeding on its leaves and branches. We encamped on the north Hide, opposite to a small willow island. At night the mosquitoes were very troublesome, though the weather was cold and rainy and the wind from the northwest. Friday, Se})temberl4.—\t two miles we reached a round island on the northern side ; at about five, a run on the south ; two and a half miles further, a small creek; and at nine miles encamped near the mouth of a creek, on the same side. The sandbars are very numerous, and render the river wide and shallow, and obliged the crew to get into the water and drag the boat over the bars several times. During the whole day we searched along the southern shore, and at some distance into the interior, to find an ancient volcano which we heard at St. Charles was somewhere in this neighbourhood; but we could not discern the slightest appearance of any thing volcanic. In the course of their search the party shot a buck-goat and a hare. The hills, particularly on the south, continue high, but the timber is confined to the islands and banks of the river. We had occasion here to observe the rapid undermining of these hills by the Missouri: the first attacks seem to be on the hills which overhang the river; as soon as the violence of the current destroys the grass at the foot of them, the whole texture appears iooe- ened, and the ground dissolves and mixes with the water: the muddy mixture is then forced over the low-grounds, which it covers sometimes to the depth of three inches, and gradually destroys 118 '. Jt: Tir THE MISSOUIU. tlie horhage; after which it can offer no resistance to the water, and becomes at last covered with sand. Snturrlny, SoptenWer 7;7.-VVe passed, at an early hour, the creek near our last night's en- campment; and at two miles distance reached the mouth of White river, coming in from the south We ascended a short distance, and sent a sergeant and another man to examine it higher up This nver has a bed of about three hundred yards though the water is confined to one hundred and hfty : in the mouth is a sand island, and several sandbars. The current is regular and swift, with sandbars projecting from the points. It differs very much from the Platte, and (^icurre, in throwing out, comparatively, little sand, but its g^Mieral character is like that of the Missouri 1 his resemblance was confirmed by the sergeant who ascended about twelve miles; at which dis' tance it was about the same width as near the mouth, and the course, which was generally west had been interrupted by islands and sandbars.' Ihe timber consisted chiefly of elm; they saw pine burrs, rnd sticks of birch were seen floating down the river; they had also met with goats, such as we have heretofore seen ; great quantities of buf- fa o, near to which were wolves, some deer, and VI lages of barking-squirrels. At the confluence of White river with the Missouri is an excellent posi- tion for a town ; the land rising by three gradual a.scents, and the neighbourhood furnishing more timber than is usual in this country. After pass- ing high dark bluffs on both sides, we reached the losver point of an island towards the south, at the distance of six mile The island bears an abun- dance of grapes, an., is covered with red cedar- it also contains a number of rabbits. At the end of 119 v^jlt .Sih |1 ii; h if LEWIS AND CLAKK'S EXPEDITION thi8 island, which is small, a narrow channel separates it from a large sand island, which we passed, and encamped, eight miles on the north under a high point of land opposite a large creek quantity of timber. The wind was from the northwest this afternoon, and high, the weather cold, and Its dreariness increased by the bowlings of a number of wolves around us Septewber 16, Sun had S„l fl ""''^'OPV'^"™" to possess the most won- derful fleetness: shy and timorous they generallv repose only on the ridges, which con.mand a ^^w of their ,?',°T.'''' "'■''" ^""""y- theacuteness of the,r sight distinguishes the most distant dan- ger, the dehcate sensibility of their smell defeats h irTaST °^<=<'-»'-»*. --J whenalarS their rapid career seems more like the flight of birds than the movements of an earthly belg a n^r^; n, ^"^ T""" *'"' "-^ees, approached a party of seven, which were on an eminence towards which the wind was unfortunately btow ing. Ihe only male of the party frequentlv en circled the summit of the hill'as^f to' anniunt any danger to the females, who formed a groun at the op. Although they did not see captain it wi's t r'i'T'""' *""•"■ ''■"' «-^ ««^ -'- ■e was at the distance of two hundred yards- he .mmediately ran to the spot where they had been a ravine concealed them from him, but the next moment they appeared on a second ridge at the c^:^dTe tT *""" T""- "" -''"""^'J -"ettr i could be the same, but their number and the ex- treme rapidity with which they continued he^ course convinced him that they must have gone with a speed equal to that of the most distiJ 122 UP THE MISSOURI. guished racehorse. Among our acquisitions to. day was a mule-deer, a magpie, the common deer and buffalo : captain Lewis also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows of the bark- ing squirrels. Tuesday, September J5.— Having every thing in readiness we proceeded, with the boat much light- ened, but the wind being from the N. W. we made but little way. At one mile we reached an island in the middle of the river, nearly a mile in length, and covered with red cedar; at its extremity a small creek comes in from the north ; we then met some sandbars, and the wind being very high and ahead, we encamped on the south, having made only seven miles. In addition to the common deer, which were in great abundance, we saw feuats, elk, buffalo, the black tailed deer; the large wolves too are very numerous, and have long hair with coarse fur, and are of a li^rht colour. A small species of wolf about the size^of a gray fox was also killed, and proved to be the animal which we had hitherto mistaken for a fox : there are also many porcupines, rabbits, and barking squirrels in the neighbourhood. September 19.— We this day enjoyed a cool clear morning, and a wind from the southeast. We reached at three miles a bluff on the south, and four miles further, the lower point of I>rospect island, about two and a half miles in length; op- posite to this are high bluffs, about eighty 'feet above the water, beyond which are beautiful plains gradually rising as they recede from the river : these are watered by three streams whicL empty near each other: the first is about thirty- five yards wide, the ground on its sides high and rich, with some timber; the second about twelve yards wide, but with less timber; the third is 123 ■'^'■"^irffTB" w i If: I !' LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITIOxN nearly of the same mze, and eontain« niore water but It scatters it« waters over the larrTimbered viZs '^;^:rr'- " '''''' '^^^ ''- ^^-^ '* '^- peaces I hese rivers are called by the French T e« tro,s „v,ere„ des ,Sio„x,the three .4uxr vers i^d as the S.oux generally cross the Missouri at tWs Pl«=e ,t is called the ,Si„„x pass ofthe thr^ rle " Ihese streams have the san.e right of asWum «^r:^r;i::-:--r twentyyards wide; three miles beyond whth is ' thjrd of eighteen yards width, al on Th s^uth Me: the second which passes throuffha S Plam we called Elm creek; to the tldrd we S ntribo ?" r '' "'^""^ -ached itTatf a night. About a mile beyond this is a small island ind' zt "'"f *"" '•"■'"•' ^■"i - -lied Lo::' island as it is situated at the commencement nf what ,s known by the name of the GWd n„f! or Great Bend of the Missouri, "s^isa c° ek on the south about ten yards wide whtcLtrrt a p am where there are great immbers ol the rickly pear, which name we gave to the cre^k Itretr":'.."'. '"" ^°"*''' «'« *he :^er Cs san V """"'• '"'""« ""'de an excellent game this ""^''""^"^'-^ -^"d '^ quarter miles. Our C wer btTkr",'"*''' '"''''' °"^^' "f these pronlof li *""' "'"^ " ""'"' '^ith two main prongs of horns on each side and forked equallv I-rg-e herds of buffalo, elk and goats, wer'e als^o Thursday, September m-Findins we 1,„^ Xur tl ? ^'"'' -' '-'^^^ tTo m: I^d wait o^r ,"■■'' T""^ *'"' "'*''■ to hunt ther* -aa wait our arrival at the first creek beyond it T ? THE MISSOURI. We then set out with fair weather and the wind from S. K to make the circuit of the bend. Near the lower island the sandbars are numerous, and the river shallow. At nine and a half miles is a sand island, on the southern side. About ten miles beyond it is a small island on the south, opposite to a small creek on the north. This island, which is near the N. W. extremity of the bend, is called Solitary island. At about eleven miles further, we encamped on a sandbar, havino- made twenty-seven and a half miles. Captain Clark, who early this morning had crossed the neck of the bend, joined us in the evening. At the narrowest part, the gorge is composed of high and irregular hills of about one hundred and eighty or one hundred and ninety feet in elevation ; from this descends an unbroken plain over the whole of the bend, and the country is separated from it by this ridge, (^freat numbers of buffalo, elk, and goats are wandering over these plains, accom- panied by grouse and larks. Captain Clark saw a hare also, on the Great Bend. Of the goats killed to-day, one is a female, differing from the male in being smaller in size; its horns too are smaller and straighter, having one short prong and no black about the neck: none of these goats have any beard, but are delicately formed, and very beautiful. Friday, September 21.-Between one and two o'clock the sergeant on guard alarmed us, by cry- ing that the sandbar on which we lay was sink- ing; we jumped up, and found that both above and below our camp the sand was undermined and falling in very ftist: we had scarcely got into the boats and pushed off, when the bank under which they had been lying, fell in, and would cer- tainy have sunk the two periogues if they had 125 «4 LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION remained there. By the time we reached the op. pomte shore the ground of our encampment sunk also. We formed a second camp for the rest of the night, and at daylight proceeded on to the gorge or throat of the Great Bend, where we break- fasted. A man, whom we had despatched to step ott the distance across the bend, made it two thousand yards: the circuit is thirty miles Dur- ing the whole course, the land of the bend is low with occasional bluffs; that on the opposite side,' high prairie ground, and long ridges of dark blutts. After breakfast, we passed through a high prairie on the north side, and a rich cedar low- land and cedar bluff on the south, till we reached a willow island below the mouth of a small creek. This creek, called Tyler's river, is about thirty-five yards wide, comes in on the south, and is at the distance of six miles from the neck of the Great Rend. Here we found a deer, and the skin of a white wolf, left us by our hunters ahead : large quantities of different kmds of plover and brants are in this neighbourhood, and seen collecting and moving towards the south: the catfish are omall and not in such plenty as we had found them' below this place. We passed several sandbars, which make the river very shallow and about a mile in width, and encamped on the south, at the distance of eleven and a half miles. On each side the shore is lined with hard rough gulleystones, rolled from the hills and small brooks. The most common timber is the cedar, though, in the prai- ries, there are great quantities of the prickly pear i^roni this place we passed several sandbars, which make the river shallow, and about a mile in width. At the distance of eleven and a half miles, we encamped on the north at the lower point of an ancient island, which has since ^^n 120 UP THE MlSSOUllI. connected with the main land by the filling up of the northern channel, and is now covered with Cottonwood. Weheresaw Home trm^ks of Indians, but they appeared three or four weeks old This day was warm. September 22.^K thick fog detained us until seven o'clock; our course was through inclined prairies on ea<.h side of the river, crowded with buffalo. We halted at a point on the north side near a high bluff on the south, and took a merid' lan altitude, which gave us the latitude of W 11 33^jy". On renewing our course, we reached first a small island on the south, at the distance of four and a half miles, immediately above which 18 another island opposite to a creek fifteen yards wide. This creek, and the two islands, one of which is half a mile long, and the second three miles, are called the Three Sisters; a beautiful plain extending on both sides of the river This is followed by an island on the north, called Cedar island, about one mile and a half in length and the same distance in breadth, and deriving its name from the quality of the timber. On the south side of this island, is a fort and a large trading-house, built by a Mr. Loisel, who wintered here during the last year, in order to trade with the bioux, the remains of whose camps are in great numbers about this place. The establish- ment is sixty or seventy feet square, built with red cedar and picketted in with the same mate- rials The hunters who had been sent ahead joined us here. They mention that the hills are washed in gullies, in passing over wh'ch, some mineral substances hM '•otted and destroyed their moccasins; they had k -leu two deer and a beaver At sixteen miles distance we came to on the north side at the mouth of a small creek. The large 127 ^ ' i'l !■ Ill I ! m i f LKVVIS AND CLAUK'H EXPEDITION HtoneH which we huw yesterday on the Hhoren uro now 8ome diHtaiiee in the river, and render the navi«:ation dangerouH. The nioHquitoen are HtiU numerouH in the h>vv groundH. SunJy; Srptoinlwr LVl.-We paHHed, with a li.rht breeze from the HoutheaHt, a small ishuid on the north, c/illed ( Joat ishind ; bove which is a snuill cieek, called by the party Smoke creek, as we ob- served a great smoke to the southwest on ap- proaching it. At ten miles we came to the lower point of a large island, having passed two small willow islands with sandbars projecting from them. This island, which we called Elk island is about two and a half miles long, and three-qukr- ters of a mile wide, ...uated near the south, and covered with cottonwood, the red currant, and grapes. The river is here almost straight for a considerable distance, wide and shallow with many sandbars. A small creek on the 'north Hbout sixteen yards wide, we called Reuben's creek; as Keuben Fields, one of our men, was the tirst of the party wlio reached it. At a short dis- tance above this we encamped for the night, hav- lug made twenty miles. The country, generally consists of low, rich, timbered ground on the north, and high barren lands on the south • on both sides great numbers of buffalo are feeding lu the evening three boys of the Sioux nation swam across the river, and informed us that two parties of Sioux were encamped on the next river one consisting of eighty, and the second of sixty lodges, at some distance above. After treating them kindly we sent them back, with a present of two carrots of tobacco to their chiefs, whom we invited to a conference in the morning Moncliij, September L>4.-The wind was from the east, and the day fair; we soon passed a hand- 128 XIV THK MISHOTTRI. some prairie on the north Hide, covered with ripe pluniH, and the mouth c. a creek on the nouth, colled Jli^hwater creek, a little above our en- campment. At about five niileH we reached an iHland two and a half mileH in len^rth, and situ- ated near the Houth. Here we were joined by one of our hunterH, wlio procured four elk, but whifHt he waH in purHuit of the ^r^nie the IndiauH had stolen hiH horne. We left the iHland, and soon overtook five Indiann on theHhore: we anchored and told them from the boat we were friendH and wiHhed to continue ho, but were not afraid of any indiann ; that some of their young men had Htolen the horse which their great father had sent for their great chief, and that we could not treat with theni until he was restored. They said that they knew nothing of the horse, but if he had been taken he should be given up. We went on, and at eleven and a half miles, passed an island on the north, which we called (Jood-humoured island; it IS about one and a half miles long, and abounds in elk. At thirteen and a half miles, we anchored one hundred yards off the mouth of a river on the south side, where we were joined by both the periogues and encamped; two-thirds of the party remained on board, and the rest went as a guard on shore with the cooks and one periogue; we have seen along the sides of the hills on the north a great deal of stone; besides the elk, we also observed a hare; the five Indians whom wc had seen followed us, and slept with the guard on shore. Finding one of them was a chief we smoked with him, and made him a present of tobacco. This river is about seventy yards wide and has a considerable current. As the tribe of the Sioux which inhabit it are called Teton, we gave it the name of Teton river. Vol. I.— 9 129 :' -Bf ^ ' I.FOWKS AND CLAUKS EXPEDITION r,(': V * CHAPTER IV. council held with tho Totoun ThHr .nannopH, dances, Ac- Chaynine rIver-Coun.ll h«Id with the UL-ara In.llanH-Tht.lr inanncH an.i habits- strange instan.-e of m.-ara Idolatrv- Another Instanr.' -Cannonball river— Arrival ,imo«K ihe SoptomUr i?;7.-Tho moniin^r ^-hh fine, and tlu^ wind continued from the HoutlieuHt. We rained a flagstaff and an awnin^^ under which we anHeni- bled at twelve o'cloclc, wi Ji all the party parad- ing; under arniH. The chietn and warriorH from the cainp two milcH up the river, met uh, about iifty or Mixty in number, and after Huiokin^ delivered them a npeech; but vlh our Sioux interpreter Mr Durion, had been left with the YanktoiiH, we were obh^red to make UHe of a Frenchman who could not speak fluently, and therefore we curtailed our haran^^nie. After this we went through the cere- niony of acknowledj?i„^. the chiefs, by ffivini? to the grand chief a medal, a flag of the Tnited .States, a kiced uniform coat, a cocked hat and feather: to the two other chiefs a medal and some small presents; and to two warriors of considera- tion certificates. The name of the great chief is Lrtongasabaw, or Black Buffalo; the second lortohonga, or the Partisan; the third Tartonga- waka, or Buffalo Medicine: the name of one of the warriors was Wawzinggo; that of the second Matocoquepa, or Second Bear. We then invited the chiefs on board, and showed them the boat the airgun, and such curiosities as we thought might amuse them: in this we succeeded too well- 130 wl,.Hk,.y which they «^,„„, ,., ,ik,. „.,f ,;,.^' and „„ek«l th. ..ottle, it w„„ with much dmZty that we t„„|,| ^^,t ri,l of them. They at lant le le»,«, t , „,„„ uh; fi,r „o Hooner had the party l"i" .-l .ha„ ,hn.. „(• the I„di„„„ „ei.«i tl e <^ te ol l>e „e„„«ue, a„ e ...the „„|dier» oC tl^ec lief |.ut h,H arniH round the n,«Ht: tlie Heco d c lie- who affected intoxicatio,, the,, naid tfat w Bhould not Ko on, that tlu-y I„«l nU r^eivri that he would not 1» prevented fi-on, going on tt ::„tT '"'* """"""• ""' ""'^O"' that we were «ent by our great fatlier, who could in « he too had warr.orH, and w,w proceeding to offer pergonal violence to captain (;iark, who inimrii ately drew Wh „word, and n.ade a signal to the boat to prepare for action. The Indians who Bur rounded hin,, ,lrew their arrow, from theirquiverH and were bending their l.o,v«, when the ;wivd b the boat wttK inrtantly pointed toward, then, and twelve of on,' ,no«t det«r,nined ,«en junn," 1 into the periogue and joined Captain Clark TWh n.ove„,ent ,nade an impreBsion on them, Ibr the grand clnef - ,ered the young ,ne„ away from the Pmogue, and they withdrew and held a "hort « w th the warrior,. Being unwilling t and oPc.ed ,„ hand to the first and second chiefb who refused to take it. He then turned fom them and got into the periogue. but had not gon" brought them on board. We then proceeded on 131 -^** \ -mm-' ml u I LEWIS AM) (J LA UK'S EXPEDITION for a mile and anehoml ofl'a willow iKlaiul. which from the circumHtances which had junt occurred, we called Hadhumoured island. Wfthif'sdiv, S<-/)t('HilwrL^a.—Om' conduct yewter- day seemed to have inspired the Indianw with fear of us, and an we were desirouH of cultivating their acquaintance, we complied with their wish that we should give them an oi)portunity of treating us well, and also suffer their squaws and children to see us and our boat, which would be perfectly new to them. Accordingly, after passing at one and a half mile a small willow island and several sandbars, we came to on the south side, where a crowd of men, women and diildren were waiting to receive us. Captain J.ewis went on shore and remained several hours, and observing that their disi)osition was friendly we resolved to remain during the night to a dance, Avhich they were pre- l)aring for us. Captains Lewis and Clark, Avho went on shore one after the other, were met on landing by ten well dressed young men, wlio took them up in a robe highly decorated and carried them to a large council house, where they were placed on a dressed buffalo skin by the side of the grand chief The hall or council-room was in the shape of three-quarters of a circle, covered at the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. Lnder this shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle ro"iid the chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given them yesterday, l^iis left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, in which the pii)e of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six or eight inches from the ground, and under it the down of the swan was scattered : a large fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood near, and in the centre about four hundred pounds of 132 nP THE MISSOURI. Mcellent buffklo meat as a preHeiit for „« a .00., a. ,ve were »eate„, a„ oi/Z ^^t u"' and after a,,„rov„,s- what we l,a,l ,loae, h^JJi^^ take ,„t,v o» their un/orfMmte Kituati.m 1' "!,, were „lie.l with a««„ra„ee„ of „rot " u a cea„„,. t„, ,,,,,, chief ro„e 1' ,i, •,■•,',: h'iraaRue to the same eflec'f then Jfh ? :;!';: i*y '- *"-'< «...- ..f *.. „..t ^..^a e p« ii iV:;ft;::'H^r"■'''"•''"^*'''■•'-'™'- lu e 1 , , 1 .'' ''^,"'''^ of »aeriflee: thin ,l„,u, tl'e globe, and tlien to tlie earth ,„., , ^-eeh, Il,.hted the pipe, ^u! ! J ^ f 5^: ";; "e ^aoked, an.l he a«ain haring^^L '"' ' ' after which the repast was served m, to us r co„s,sted of the dog which the/ had It i,Jn r";r rr^t-rrtf'- grt»e^;, '■'",''':"'"''■•' '""^ """^d ™w with grease .ind a kind of ground potato dressed lit. w^'irirriu;,:''.'"'""" *="-' »"^^ ""™^- - ""11.11 II If, little inferior (W nil +u i wi«* ..„,„,,, i.r„:., ',:,*-, ™- thiii^r was then cleared awiv in. +i i "^ ■arge Are being n.ade i,! ZtJZ T^^Zn^ mTrctr ""'" "'" ""■"^'' *° "-'-"-"• wlnw^n , «■"« «"''l'osed of about ten men who played on a sort of tambourin forme^n? Setuh":", ---'-P; and made a "I! i^l noise with a long stick to which the hoofs ofdeer and goats were hung; the third instrument wa a 1 '>•) I;i LEWIS AND n.AHKS EXPEDITION small 8kin bag with pebblen in it: these, with five or six young men for the vocal part, made up the band. The women then came forward highly decorated; some with poles in their hands, on which were hung the scalps of their enemies; others with guns, spears or different trophies,' taken in war by their husbands, brothers, or con- nexions. Having arranged themselves in two columns, one on each side of the fire, as soon as the music began they danced towards each other till they met in the centre, when the rattles were shaken, and they all shouted and returned back to their places. They have no step, but shuffle along the ground ; nor does the music ai)pear to be any thing more than a confusion of noises, distin- guished only by hard or gentle blows upon the buffalo skin: the song is i)erfectly extemporane- ous. Jn the pauses vof the dance, any man of the company conies forward and recites, in a sort of loAV guttural tone, some little story or incident, which is either martial or ludicrous ; or, as was the case this evening, voluptuous and indecent; this is taken up by the orchestra and the dancers' who repeat it in a higher strain and dance to it! Sometimes they alternate ; the orchestra first per- forming, and when it ceases, the women raise their voices and make a music more agreeable, that is, less intolerable than that of the musicians. The dances of the men, which are always separate from those of the women, are conducted very utarly in the same way, except that the men jump up and down instead of shuffling; and in the war dances the recitations are all of a military cast. The harmony of the entertainment had nearly been disturbed by one of the musicians, who think- ing he had not received a due share of the tobacco we had distributed during the evening, put himself i HP rrif] MrssoTTRT. into a passion, broke one of the drum., threw two ot them Hito the lire, and left the band. Thev were taken ont of the fire: a buffalo robe held in m.e hand and beaten with the other, by several of the company, nupplied the place of the lost drum ortambounn, and no notice was taken of the offensive conduct of the man. We staid till tM'elve o clock at ni^ht, when we informed the chiefs that th y must be fati,n,ed with all these attempts to amuse us and retired accompanied by four chiefs, t^vo of whom -pent the nio-ht with us on board. \\ hile on shore we saw twenty-five squaws, and about the same number of children, who had been taken prisoners two weeks ago, in a battle with .heir countrymen the Alahas. In this engagement the feioux destroyed forty lodges, killed seven y ^nd 'ri 1 '"'"'' '"" '^'^ '"^"^^ «^' ^1^« scalps, and took these prisoners; their appearance is wretched and dejected; the women too seem Lw condH '' '"''''?. ''"'^ "^■^^' ^^J^«»Mli their present condition may diminish their beauty. We gave them a variety of small articles, such as awls and needles, and interceded for them with the chiefs to whom we lecommended to follow the advice' of their great father, to restore the prisoners and Irdo ^'''''' ^'^^' *^'' ^^''^''''' ""'^''^^ *^'^' promised The tribe which we this day saw, are a part of the great feioux nation, and are known by the two h '^*'^ '^''^^ Okandandas: they are about two hundred men in number, and their chief resi- dence IS on both sides of the Missouri, between the Chayenne and Teton rivers. Jn their persons they are rather ugly and ill made, their legs and arms being too small, their cheekbones high, and their character of form, are more handsome; and lu>th 135 •» h^i ? LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION sexes appear cheerful and npri^htly; but in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were cunning and vicious. The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top, which they suffer to grow and wear in plaits over the shoulders ; to this they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration wear a hawks feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, and fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face and body are gi . r- ally painted with a mixture of grease an , co . Over the shoulders is a loose robe or ma tie or buffalo skin dressed white, adorned with ^ ra- pine quills loosely fixed so as to make a jingling noise when in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures unintelligible to us, but to them emblematic of military exploits, or any other inci- dent; the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the robe is either thrown over the arm, or wrapped round the body, all of which it may cover. I'nder this in the winter season they wear a kind of shirt resembling oui.^, and made either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms and body. Hound the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth or procured dressed elk-skin, about an inch in width and closely tied to the body, to this is at- tached a piece of cloth or blanket or skin about a foot wide, which passes between the legs and is tucked under the girdle both before and behind ; from the hip to the ancle he is covered by leggings of dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width, and ornamented by little tufts of hair the produce of the scalps they have made in war, which are scattered down the leg. 13G It ! UP THK MISSOIJIU. The winter moccasiiiH are of drejssecl bufialo- Hkin, the hair being- worn inwardn, and soled with thick elk-Hkin parchment: those for summer are of deer or elk-skin, dressed without the hair and with Holes of elk-skin. On great occasions, or wherever they are in full dress, the young- men drag after them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin. Another skin of the same animal is either tucked into the girdle or carried in the hand, and serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what the French traders call the bois roule: this is the inner bark of a species of red willow, which being dried in the sun or over the fire, is rubbed between the hands and broken into small pieces, and is used alone or mixed with tobacco. ^JMie pipe is generally of red earth, the Hteni made of ash, about three or four feet long and highly decorated with feathers, hair and por- cupine quills. The hair of the women is suffered to grow long and is parted from the forehead across the head, at the back of which it is either collected into a kind of bag, or hangs down over the shoulders. Their moccasins are like those of the men, as are also the leggings, which do not however reach beyond the knee, where it is met by a long loose shift of skill which reaches nearly to the ancles: this is fastened over the shoulders by a string and has no sleeves, but a few pieces of the skin hang a short distance down the arm. Sometimes a girdle fastens this skin round the waist, and over all is thrown a robe like that w^orn by the men They seem fond of dress. Their lodges are very neatly constructed, in the same form as those of the Yanktons; they consist of about one hundred cabins, made of white buffalo hide dressed, with a larger one in the centre for holding courcil's and 137 J! 1 I.KWIS AND CLAItKS lOXIMODn^loX (hiiiceH. They are l)uilt round with poh-H about Hfteen or twenty feet hiKli, covered with white HkiuH; these iod^^ew may l)e taken to pieeeH. packed up, and carried with the nation wherever they ^m,, by do«;H which bear «reat burdeuH. 'I^he women are chiefly emi)h>yed in drcHHin^- buffalo Hkinn: they weem perfectly well dispoHed, but are addicted to stealing- any thin^^ which they can take with- out bein«- obnerved. TIum nation, althouj«h it makcH so many rava^-cH amon^Mts neij;hb()urH, is badly supplied with ^nins. The water which tliey carry with them is contnined chiefly in the j)aunches of deer and other animals, and they make use of wooden bowls. Some had their heads shaved, which we found was a siJecies of mourning- for relations. Another usage, on these occasions, is to run arrows through the flesh both above and below the elboAv. While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between tAVo squaws, which appeared to be grow- ing every moment more boisterous, wlien a man came forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. Jle took the squaws, and without any ceremony wiiipped them se- verely; on inquiring into the nature of such sum- mary justice, wc learnt that this man was an officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep the peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to two or three of these oftlcers, who are named by the chief and remain in power some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor ; they seem to be a sort of constable or sentinel, since they are alwa- on the watch to keep tranquillity during the day, and guarding the camp in the night. The short dura- tion of their office is compensated by its author- ity: his powder is supreme, and in the suppression 138 TIP TinO MISSOlIKf. ofany riotordiHturbaiute no ivMistaiice to him is Huflered : JiIh i)erHon Ih sjujred, and if in the execu- tion of hiH duty he strikes even a chief ol' the second chiHH, he cannot be i)uniHhed for thin salu- tary nisolence. Jn ^reneral they accompany the person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty however dan^rerous, it is a point of honour rather to die than to refuse obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us yesterday, the chief ordered one of these men to take possession ol' the boat- he immediately put his arms round the mast and' as we understood, no force except the command of the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like the other men their bodies are black- ened, but their (hstiiiguishing mark is a collection of two or three raven skins hxed to the girdle be- hind the back in such a way, that the tails stick out horizontally from the body. On his head too IS a raven skin split into two parts, and tied so as to let the beak project from the forehead. Thursday, September 27.-We rose early, an^ the two chiefs took off; as a matter of course anc according to their custom, the blanket on whi- they had slept. To this we added a peck of corn as a present to each. Captain Lewis and the chief ^ went on shore to see a part of the nation th. -as exp'jcted, but did not come. He re- turned at two o'clock, with four of the chiefs and a warrior of distinction, called Wadrapa, (or on his guard) ; they examined the boat and admired whatever was strange, during half an hour, when they left it with great reluctance. Captain Clark accompanied them to the lodge of the grand chief who invited them to a dance, where, being joined by captain Lewis, they remained till a late hour Ihe dance was very similar to that of yesterday About twelve we left them, taking the second chief 139 *! H !'■ I ill and I. i:\MS AM) CLAKKS KXPfOOITlOX IH' (U-iiicipal warrior on Ixwinl in'nr tlH-lMwit llu. iiinii who h((.«tc(I t •'.V iiiiHlnkr. hroMulif |„.r l»roa«lHi«| nn w«» vnuw li<> I»rri<»f>ii«' Hcnbl,.. „,„| l,n.lv(. it. UVcnilcil ii|miII I boat to their oars; but lad «' a^jiiiiNt tli<> wiadH iaiiH: th<\v railed out to tl oar noise ainraied the t\\ (> leir eoaipnaionH, lor r men, who we were to [m> eation of onr nnspieion, pn^p.-ired •('. withont «ivin«- nnv iadi- «'very thin^- lbr aa attaek. n« the loss of onr anehor "(ddiued eome to near a lid lino- banl iK'cd to delenee. We were not ndstak K. very anlavonrabl(> lbr lor wl»en in the aiorninir. Iveii in Hiese opinions' I'Yulny, Sojttoiiibov i*,v, after d I'ully for the anel ra^j;-in;r nnsneeess- lor, we wished to set sail, it WHS with o-reat ditfie.dty that W(> eonM n.ake the ehiels leave the boat. At lenutl the «reat ehief; when jnst a we jrot rid of all e.\eei)t N we were settin"- out. several of the chiefs sohliers sat on the rope whicli hehl the boat to the shore. Irritated at this, we jfot every thin- ready to lire on them if they per- sisted, bnt the Kivat ehief said that these were his soldiers and only wanted s.)nie tobacco. We liad already refused a Ha- and some tol:aeco to the second chief, who had demanded it with great importunity ; but wiliiuM- to leave them without going to extremities, we threw him a carrot of tobacco, saying to him, "You have told us that 140 1^ ' «'!• Tlfi-: MISSOIIIU. you wm. „ Krnu Mm,,. ,„.(l hav,, infl,,,.,,.,.. „ovv H how .voM,- i„fl,„.„n., Uy inking t,„. , ,. ^.^^^^^^ .OH,. „„M., n,ul vv.' ^vilMh(.„^a,vvitl.„„fH„vn,^- 'HT t,.o..hl,.." Tl.iH npp..al to hiH p,.id,. I.,.;i t,,, clmmlolhrt;!.,. vv.,,t,out,,in.. ^ tl.m l.rnHlH d,.|ivm..I it ,,i. lH,m-(l, niMl wo tl„M, HH 7' "'"'*''* " '»• '"' '■••"'" M'«' S. i:. ACtor Hnili,,^' '«l>o,ittvv„ ,„i|,.H wvnlm'vu^il the tlii,-'• A littlo lh,-tho,. („, wo wo,.oj„i,u,| I,/, ho HO,. <,l t,h(. chiof, wh(, (.a,„o <„, i,„;„,, („ ^,.; ,,.^ fatho,-. On hiH ,.ot,„-,> wo Ho,.t ,,, Hpo,rh to tho iiat.o,,. oxpiai„i„«- what wo had (lo„o, u,.d mlviH- in«- th,.„, t,<» ponco; but if thoy p,.,.HiHtod iu thoir atto,„ptH t<. Htop UH, wo woi-o willing- aud abh- t(, 'J^;'<;";1 ou,.H(.iv(^H. ACtor ,uaki,.«- Hix 4,.ih.H, du,.iuK wh.ch wo paHH,.d a wlMow inhuid on the Houth am ono Haudba,-, wo onoan.p..,! on anothorin the ".'f I" of tho ,.ivo,.. Tho oount,.y on the Houth H,do was a lo'.v piviirio, that on the north high- S.j.trrnhor-fK-\Xe Hot out early, but were again impochMl by Handbarn, which mad^ the river Hhal low; th(. woathor waH however fair; the land on the north nid, low and covered with timber con- tranted wit!, the blutfk to the Houth. At nine o c lock we Haw the necond chief and two wo,non and three men on Hhore, who winhed uh to take two wo,nen offered by the necond chief to make friendH, ^yhich wan refuHod ; he then roquoHted uh to take them to the other band of their nation who were on the river not far from uh: this we declined ; but in spite of our wiHhoH they followed us along shore The chief asked u- trive them M'lWIS AND CLAKKS ICXI'MDITION fl i , f f' HoiMP ItiluuTo; MiJH we an ii pr»'H.Mil Tor (lint p/irt of Mm« iwttiiMi whirh urdi.l nof HiMv At Hcvcii and a hnll' iiiilrH \v(« chiim' Io a Hinall rn>(«k on (he Hoiillicni HJdr. \vli(>n' \\v h/iw K:n«a< immlM'rH<.r..||<. ami wliirli we rall.Ml Nolim- Imm- rnviv rrom its liai-r ajipoaraiin'. AI»ov«' tlir inontli olthiM Mlrrani. a Kicani haiiil ..f rawnrcH had a villap« live .vrai-H a^o: hut (Immv arnio iv inaiiiH (.(it «'xn'|.( Ilii> iiioiiml w|,i<'li (Miciirlcd tlii> town. Ih'ir t\w Htroiid chicl \vrii( on hIioit. Wr Hicn procrrdcd. and at thr dJHtancr olCh-vni nnl«>H (Micaniprd on tin- lower part ola, willow JHiand. in thr niiddlool(lu>nv(>r. Iirin^- ol.ljp.d to HnltHlitnto lar^v HtoncH in (lir p aco of the anchor whi«'h we h)Ht. ,Srf>fnnhor:{(K~T\\o wind waH thin niornin^f vjm-.v hi^h from the sonthoast. ho that w«> w««nMd»liMC(! to i»ro('»rd nnd(M'a(lonl)l(«-nM«li'd niainHail. thronKli tlu> rain. Tho country prcHcntcd a lar^-c low prairie covered with tind.er on the north Hide; on theHouth. welirst had liij^li barren IuIIh. but alter Home niileH it became of the Name character an that on the ojtponite Hid«>. We had n(»t j»-one lar when an Indian ran after us. and be^7;(>d (,, bo carried im board as far an the Micaran, which wo refiiHcd : noon after, we dincovered on the hilln at a distance, a ^reat lunnber of Indians, who came towards the river and (>ncamped ahead of us. We stopped at a sandbar, at about eleven miles, and after breakfasting- pnu-eeded on a short distance to thei/camp, which consisted of about four hun- dred souls. W ' anchored r.:w hundred .yards from the shore. i\v i discovering.- that the.y Avere 'IVtonw belon^nn^- t' the band which we had just h'ft: we told thom that we took them by the hand, and would make each chief a present (^f tobacco; that we had been badly treated by some ot their band, 14:2 Mnm \V«' r««(uH.M|. hilt Hr.K «i... . • "'• ;r'""- -'-"•.:.;» .:;:::iv:'.:,''"'-;: l>ul. III,. ,l,„.|- i|„,.,v ||„ "iiir „H, """• l'-''«"»- «••• II |.n. ,l,.,| ,„J, , ' ' ' r;"";";."-""^ """ "" ■■"! <. six,,,, ,z ;;: «■;:;;'';;:::•;:;';::;;;':;:;;;':;:;:-' '- '"'■ :"■" ■; Ml, i„«.i„.,., „::, ,,,:'::;::;;,;;.■::; I<-K, lunicl, „„,l „■«« v,Ty ,„.,,r l„l,i, n'tui-M, Mint H'(> vvoiiM „,.,, vvniiU'd to »» « VVIMIKI IK) ,V HCC IKl irwii'o '^I\.a -""H. which we ohH..rved wT 'wM t'^t then ,„ great abundance *'''"' 0.toto-i««, i*W.-The weather wa„ very cold 143 '-f-K^iWil^i;;: "H m I.MWIS \S\) CLAUK'S MMMIIHTIOM mimI Hio wind lii«li iVoiii (lit> nimM Iii>(im| «hiniiK Hio iiiulit, (iii«i <'oiilitiii(>.i« imIjiikI in t|, niitMlo oi fh(< rlvrr, u|i|>oHil<> Ju lli<> lnwrr «>n hnd »i vill/inv on (hr nunlh MJdo ol't he river: (h<>n« nri'. huncv'-r. n,, rminnnlM ul it n(»\v. r\(T|(t M rin-nhir wnll iUvw or fwnr li'ct in height, which «nHniid: it t/iKen itH riHc in .i.. H«H'und r.'iiiKe of the Cut., \uire or llhick ino n talnH, Mild i(H ^vnenil coiii-hc \h nenrl.v ennt : (hiH river hnH l»t»eii occMHionnll,v cnUed |»o^> river, under n iniHtnkeii o|iinion thnt itH trench nniiie wmm CI'itMi. iMit itH tni(> npiiellntion in ChM.venne. /md it derivt'H thiH tith> IVoin t h<> ('hn.veiine liidiajiH: (heir histoi-.v in th«' nhort niid inehiiichoi.v rela- tion of the calainitieH of alinont all (he IndiniiH. 'I'he,v w»>re a iiiiiiu'immih people and lived on (h(> Cha.veiiiK". a branch oi the l{ed river ol Lnkr Win- nipeg-. The invanioii ol tin* Sionx ir pro^renn tlie.v halted on (ho Hoii(lnM-n side of (lu> MissiMiri l»eh)w (he Unrre- ooniu , where (heir an 'ieid fortilicadoiiH Htill exint ; but the same im|Milse ;i;:i;iin dr«)ve them to the heads of th(» Cha.venne. where thev now rove, and t)ccasii)nji||y visit (h«> Kicaras. Thoy are now- reduced, but still number three hniidred men. Althoiiiih the river did not sivm to throw out. much sand, yet near and above its mouth we iind a jrtvat many sandbars ditlicult to pass. On both sides t)f the Missouri, near the Chayenuo. are rich thinly timbered lowlands, behind whlcn are bare liills. .Vs we proceeded, we found that the sand- biirs made the river so shallow, and the wind was 111 '"• Tlir MIHHoif III. "« I'Ik'i. Miuf, hikI III, ,Mi(> pin ^v.' roiiM Hrnirrly HimI f |„. ,.| ovrr n. H»ui(ll»/ir. Mm> Mj i*illiiiK;/i, IHM,.. \i t<» Hi, a point, /Mill wlilrli I «••■ WHP lorn.l ,„ ,|,,i^ ,,,„ , NH' 'iiri hi'iii^ vi'i'v laniicj, M»ai, H HI'VI'll IMill /I, f )'>lf'lllj|l>H W(> l'«'IIW||IIC(| (III-,.,. I " ill liri'/iilili, w HMMilh/ir in Mm inidijl «"H* Mil /I. Jui •! con ""' ni«:lil, oiir I <• <»r(|i(« rivir. vvl 'iiili'H riirllMT, f <> II »!•( II ic oi'lx'Hil" Hlion., n •Rri'MH JM'iii^ Hixl will <>\\H mill /I, |H)y, lo wl <* H/IW /I lioilM. wrv we Hpcfii, niiifui^ lli«. '"•'»"«''' liirii on l,o'/in|. || """ ^vi. r/i|l,.,|, „,„| I'n'iK'l wl <■ |M-OVl'l| to I lU """" '" <'"• ''Miplo.v o(a M,.. V Sioiix IH now Ihtc piirHiiiii^- | "* a .voting '•.'i<' /I (r/uliT. nit(>isil»/ini('«l IIH tor "ivc ll/|||,.,| |„ "•HonooClhm. |.>,.„,|. (r/uliTH wl comini;;: down ll •''- H.(. p„rpo„,.H or t,H„i,. v;;."" v'',;'7„""'^ ;,:,:,.„':„;:r'n '-'^-'-'^^^^^^^^^^ '•;■»;-. ...... i„„„,,.,„i i,.„^.„,.„ r,-.,,„ ,;:,",,'" LEWIS AN^ CLARK'S EXPEDITION enters the Black mountains. The land which it waters from the Missouri to the Black mountains resembles the country on the Missouri, except that the former has even less timb r. and of that the greater proportion is cedar. The Chayennes re- side chiefly on the heads of the river, and steal from the Spanish settlement, a plundering- excur- sion which they perform in a months time The Black mountains he observes are very liio-h covered with ^^reat quantities of pine, and in some parts the snow remains duriu- the summer. Uiere are also ^reat quantities of o(,ats, white i)car, prairie cock.s, and a species of animal which from his description must resemble a small elk with large circular horns. " ' ; At two and a half miles we had passed a wil- low island on the south, on the north side of the river were dark bluffs, and on the south low rich prairies. We took a meridian altitude on our arrival at the upi)er end of the isthmus of the bend which we called the Lookout bend, and found the latitude to be U 10 m\ This bend IS nearly twenty miles round, and not more than two miles across. In the afternoon we heard a shot fired, and not long after observed some Indians on a hill • one of them came to the shore and wished us to land, as there were twerty lodges of Vanktons or Bois- brule there; we c -lined doing so, telling him that we had already seen his chiefs, and that they might learn from Mr. Durion the nature of the talk we had delivered to them. At nine miles we came to the lower point of a long island on the north, the banks of the south side of the river being high, those of the north forming- a low rich prairie. We coasted along this island, which we called Caution island, and after passing a small 140 UP THK MISSOUBI. middle of tte nver, having made twelve miles 1; Ti ""'"^''' *° *^ northwest, and Cam, very h,gh and cold. The current of the river L less rapid, and the water though of the 11,! colour contains less sediment Ian betV X Chayenne, but its width continues the sam^ We were not able to hunt to-day; for as therTare o many Indians in the neighbourhood, we lerHn constant expectation of being attack d, Ld we " Wednesdiij, October S.-Tho wind continued so oStiuZef '"''*'""*' *'"^* ^™ could not s" out til after seven: we then proceeded till twelve o clock, and landed on a bar towards the sou I casWrrth'T"""" t"«P-««-s, and L f^re: castle of the boat, and found that the mice hid cut s,, , b^^., „,.,„„_ ^„j spoiled son. Of our clothes: about one o'clock an Indian camerunuZ to the shore with a turkey on his back: TO with them. We then went on for three miles bnt the a^eent soon became so obstructed by"a^ba"s and shoal water, that after attempting in va[n several channels, we determined to rest L^he S o"ut :: '""" ."'«" "'"«■» °" *'- -"ttand send out to examine the best channel. We had m^^e eight miles along high bluffs o„ each sWe brant whir "" T" *'" """« S«»« -" !« lai: Jck: ""' ""'"*-' *" *"" ^-"--0 - Thursday, 4th.-0n examination we found that net, and that we must retread our steps. We therefore returned three miles, and a^^empt^ a„! Other channel in which we wee more fortunate. mmm' IM LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION The Indians were in small numbers on the shore, and seemed willing had they been more numerous to molest us. They called to desire that we would land, and one of them gave three yells and fired a ball ahead of the boat: we however took no notice of it, but landed on the south to breakfast. One of these Indians swam across and begged for some powder, we gave him a piece of tobacco only. At eight and a half miles we had y ssed an island in the middle of the river, which a, e called (loodhope island. At one and a half mile we reached a creek on the south side about twelve yards wide, to which we gave the name of Teal creek. A little above this is an island on the north side of the current, about one and a half mile in length and three-quarters of a mile in breadth. In the centre of this island is an old village of the Iticaras, called Lahoocat; it was surrounded by a circular wall, containing seven- teen lodges. The Kicaras are known to have lived there in 1 71)7, and the village seems to have been deserted about five years since: it does not con^ tain much timber. We encamped on a sandbar making out from the upper end of this island ; our journey to-day being twelve miles. Friflny, October o.— The weather was very cold : yesterday evening and this morning there was a white frost. We sailed along the highlands on the north side, passing a small creek on the south, between three and lour miles. At seven o'clock we heard some yells and saw three Indians of the Teton band, who asked us to come ou shore and begged for some tobacco, to all which we gave the same answer as hitherto. At eight miles we reached a small creek on the north. At fourteen we passed an island on the south, covered with wild rye, and at the head a large creek comes in ;l • TIP THE MLSSOTTRI twentv mJioc « ^"^ distance of placed as close to each othZ T ^'^tV*^' picketed round llJT ' P°''^^^'^' ^"^ and articles of ,^\'^'''' ^^""^«' ni«tH, buckets, S; j:r ^i;,*'-^'* ""'^™* -::of luj fi,o • , ""ives. Un leaving the villa o-p long time for the main channel, which was nnn eealed amon,. sandbar., we at la.t d a^'d tt boat over one of them^rather than go bfekthl i-, « UP THE MISSOURI. milee for the deepest channel. At fourteen and a half miles we stopped for the night on a sandbar, opposite a creek on the north, called Otter creek, twenty-two yards in width, and containing- more water than is common for creeks of that size. The sides of the river during the day are varie- gated with high bluffs and low timbered grounds on the banks: the river is very much obstructed by sandbars. We saw geese, swan, brants and ducks of different kinds on the sandbais, and on shore numbers of the prairie hen; the magpie too is very common, but the gulls and plover, which we saw in such numbers below, are now quite rare. Sunday, October T.— There was frost again last ' evening, and this morning was cloudy and at- tended with rain. At two miles we came to the mouth of a river; called by the Ricaras, Sawaw- kawna, or Pork river; the party who examiuad it for about three miles up, say that its current is gentle, and that it does not seem to throw out much sand. Its sources are in the first range of the Black mountains, and though it has now only water of twenty yards width, yet when full it occupies ninety. Just below the mouth is another village or wintering camp of the Ricaras, com- posed of about sixty lodges, built in the same form as those passed yesterday, with willow and straw mats, baskets and buffalo-skin canoes re- maining entire in the camp. We proceeded under a genth' breeze from the southwest: at ten o'clock we saw two Indians on the north side, who told us they were a part of the lodge of Tartonga- waka, or Buffalo Medicine, the Teton chief whom we had seen on the twenty-fifth, that they were on the way to the Ricaras, and begged us for something to eat, which we of course gave them. 150 UP THE MISSOUEr. At seven and a half milen is a willow island on the north, and another on the same side five miles beyond it m the middle of the river between high- lands on both sides. At eighteen and a half mL 18 an island called Grouse island, on which are the walls of an old village: the island has no timber, but IS covered with grass and wild rye, and owes Its name to the number of grouse that frequent it. \\e then went on till our journey for the day was twenty-two miles: the country presented the same appearance as usual. In the low timbered ground near the mouth of the Sawawkawna, we saw the killed a female blaireau, and a deer of the black- tailed species, the largest we have ever seen Alonday, October .^.-We proceeded early with a cool northwest wind, and at two and a half miles above Grouse island, reached the mouth of a creek on the south, then a small willow island, which divides the current equally; and at four and a half miles came to a river on the southern side where we halted. This river, which our meridian altitude fixes at 45= 39 5' north latitude, is called by the Ricaras Wetawhoo; it rises in the Black mountains, and its bed, which flows at the mouth over a low soft slate stone, is one hundred and twenty yards wide, but the water is now confined within twenty yards, and is not verv rapid, discharging mud with a small proportion ol sand : here as in every bend of the river we again observe the red berries resembling currants which we mentioned before. Two miles above th^ \^etawhoo, and on the same side, is a small river called M^aropa by the Indians; it is twenty yards m width, but so dammed up by mud that the stream creeps through a channel of not more than an inch in diameter, and discharges no sand One 151 ft, I* n LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION mile further we reached an inland clone to the southern shore, from which it in separated by a deep channel of sixty yards. About half way a number of Bicara Indians came out to see us 'we stopped and took a Frenchman on board, who accompanied us past the island to our camp on the north side of the river, which is at the distance of twelve nnles from that of yesterday. Captain Lewis then returned with four of the party to see the village; it is situated in the centre of the island near the southern shore, under the ibot of some high, bald, uneven hills, and contains about sixty lodges. The island itself is three miles long and covered with fields in which the Indians raise corn, beans, and potatoes. Several Frenchmen living among these Indians as interpreters, or traders, came back with captain Lewis, and par- ticularly a Mr. Gravelines, a man who has ac- quired the language. On setting out we had a low prairie covered with timber on the north, and on the south highlands, but at the mouth of the VVetawhoo the southern country changes, and a low timbered plain extends along the south, while the north has a ridge of barren hills during the rest of the day's course. Tuesday, Oth.^The wind was so cold and high last night and during all the day, that we could not assemble the Indians in council; but some of the party went to the village. We received the visits of the three principal chiefs with many others, to whom we gave some tobacco, and told them that we would speak to them to-morrow The names of these chiefs were first, Kakawissassa or Lighting Crow; second chief Pocasse or Hay third chief Piaheto or Eagle's Feather. Notwith- standing the high waves, two or three squaws rowed to us in little canoes made of a single buf- 152 UP THE MISSOURI. coJZ "e The : :' rwh-t' *"" """* '"■■^'»' ish th^ rn,L ' '"'^'' appeared to aBton- ishthe Indians most, was captain Clark's servant ^ork, a re„,arkaW„ stent strong negro Thev had never seen a bein^ of that colour Ind ther^ fore flocked round him to examine the extraoX nary monster. By way of an.usement he totl them that he had once been a wild animal at causht and tamed by his master, and to convinc hem showed them feats of strength which add^j' creek on tne south, which we distinguished bv the name of the chief Kakawissassa. ^ ' fine and as we were desirous of assembUng the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr OravT lines who With Mr. Tabeau another French trX had breakfasted with us, to invite the chiefs ofle two upper villages to a conference. They al as sembled at one o'clock, and after the usll ere." monies we addressed them in the same way Tn which we had already spoken to the Otto ! thL r^- '™ *''^" ""^' °' acknowledZ three chiefs, one for each of the three villages gmng to each a flag, a medal, a red coaf ' Tf"f u"' """ '■'«'*''■•' ^^'o ^one goods paint and tobacco, which they divided anioil' them mtcftolr- *"" *'^ '"^«"" ^™« exhibited, ve"; much to their astonishment, nor were thev lei ^nrprised at the colour and manner on'orl On that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous wh"oTr-:lrt"f 'th"' *'"' ^^''"""<' °^ ^'^'"'^^^ Zr. I'a^ *''™ '" ''"' f™"! tempting having •n fact disgusted them. Supposing that ft waL as '*i^mmi I M5WIS AND CUHK'« KXI'HDITION I'„h which they were ver,-„rcrrler d At one o cloclc we left o„r camp with the Irld other. We visited both the villages, and sat eon th pra,ne, who discover and collect it X"e t^o villages are placed near each other in aS smootli prairie; a fine situation exceot tLf . ;"S no wood the inhabitants ar 'obh>d to 1 for" ■t .vcross the river to a timbered lowSnd oppost to them We told them that we wouW speak t' them m the morning at their villages separately 154: UP THE MJSSOUIII. ThursfUy, ii^^A.-Accordinffly after breakfast we went on ehon. to the houHe of the chief of the second viUa^e named ].aH«el, -where we found hig chiefH and warriorH. They made uh a prenent of about Heven bu8hel« of corn, a pair of le^ffintrg a twiHt of their tobm^co, and the eeedH of two dif- ferent Hpecies of tobacco. The chief then delivered H speech expreHHive of his gratitude for the prew- ents and the good couuhcIh which we had given him ; hi« intention of viniting hiH great father but for fear of tlie Sioux ; and requented us to take one of the Kicara chiefs up to the Mandans and nego- ciate a peace between the two nations. To this we replied in a suitable way, and then repaired to the third village. Here we were addressed by the chief in nearly the same terms as before, and enter- tained with a present often bushels of corn, some beans, dried pumpkins, and squashes. After we had answered and explained the magnitude and power of the United States, the three chiefs came with U8 to the boat. We gave them some sugar, a little salt, and a sunglass. Two of them then left us, and the chief of the third, by name Ahketah- nasha or Chief of the Town, accompanied us to the Mandans. At two o'clock we left the Indians who crowded to the shore to take leave of us,' and after making seven and a half miles landed on the north side, and had a clear, cool, pleasant evening. The three villages which we have just left, are the residence of a nation called the Kicaras. Thev were originally colonies of Pawnees, who estab- hshed themselves on the Missouri, below the Chayenne, where the traders still remember that twenty years ago they occupied a number of vil- lages. From that situation a part of the liicaras emigrated to the neighbourhood of the Mandans 155 ' m V if wll I I' I' 1 1 f I ill T.KWIS AND CLAUK-S EXJ- with whom thc.v were then in all ol the nntum coutinned near the year 17U7, in the coiirHe of whie EDITION in nee. Tlw rent <'hayenne till the *i • *"''"^' <♦'■ ^vhich, (liHtreHHefl hv l.<.,r w„r« with tl„. ,Si«ux, they j,.i„«l thToouf y.n,.n near the Ma„„a„„. .s..„„ ,„t„ „ .V^'; <"-OMe between the l(ie,tra„ „,„| „,„ ManaJJZ eon«.quence of whieh the fbrn.er e«„,e do", n the those who h ul hr»t gone to the Manning, and i)er- secuted us with civilities. The black man York participated largely in these favours; for instead of in8i)iriiig any prejudice, his colour seemed to procure him additional advantages from the In- dians, who desired to preserve among them some memorial of this wonderful stranger. Among otherinstances of attention, a Eicara invited him into his house and presenting his wife to him retired to the outside of the door: while there one of \ork8 comrades who was looking for him came to the door, but the gallant husband would permit no interruption before a reasouable time had elapsed. 157 ■I i 'fl- ^ t i LKWIS AND CLAKKS KXIMODITION The Kjcar/i lod^cH arc in n circul/ir or octM^onal form, iiiKi ^.ncnilly ahont thirty or forty fW't in 'IJanu'trr: they ar,. nuMh- l.y phuin^r /i„.|<;,| p,,^^^ HlM.iit Hix Urt hi^h round th<' cirnnnliTrncc ofthe <'irfh»; th.'Ho art" j,)inc(l l.y p„h.M from one fork to nnother. which arc nupportcd alHo by (»thcr Corked polcH HlnntiiiK- ironi the ^^round • ••\'th(. centre of the hMlK-e /ire placed tour hi^luT forkH, about Hftwn te«'t in hMi^th. coniurtnl together l)vbeaniH- from thcHc to the h.Ny^T poh-H the rafterH of the roof an' extmdiMl ho uh bo h'aye a vacan<'y in tlie 'nicidle for the Hh.oke: the frame of the bjii'idin^r jh then covered >vith NyiUoNy branchcH, with which iH interwoven jifraHw. anact. They cultivate maize or Indian corn, beans purnpkinH, watermelo. s, HcpiawheH, and a Hpecies of tobm'co peculiar to tlnrniHelveH. Their commerce is chiefly with the traders who supply them with ^r„od8 in return for peltries which they procure not only by their own hunt- in>r. but in exchange for corn from their less civil- ized nei^.hb.mrs. The object chiefly in demand seemed to be red paint, but .hey would i^nve any thin^r they had - ~ -uire fb. the most trifling article. Oneofv=, .„ar o-day ^mve an Indian a hook made out c : . ...i. and he gave him in re- turn a pair of moccasins. They express a disposition to keep at peace with all nations, but they are Avell armed with fusils, and being much under the influence of the Sioux,' who exchanged the goods which they get from the British for Kicara corn, their minds are sometimes poisoned and they caunr- be always depended on. 158 'X -^ • i UP THK MISSoniil. At tlio prtwnt inoriu'nt tli i«'y art' lit wnr with tl M«n.l,...s We ur.. i„ll,ruH,l l,v Mr. Cra,.- no hiKl |»iHHi'(I throuKli tl 10 • m '< "in™. Vuiiktnii or Ja<')|U( to the I'twt or iiortliciBt ' tl ml couiilry, that tli« H nvcr ri«..H iil,„i,t (iirty inilia Ik |.|i«-c, the Cliii |-n"- l.r«„H, oCtlH. |l«l Hv.t »l,„„t tw,.„(y „r , flirtlUT, ,,„««,„« tho KioMX, „>Ml tl,,. St J'Bt J:>Uml:,.v, l.m.-i„ tl,,. „,ornin;r -".r vi„itorM l.'ft. »H, ,.x,.,.pt tl„. I,r,.tl„.r „. .1,,. M,.,' wl, ', r w..r,l, m„l iro,,, t|„. ,.„,i„„.|,r ,„• ti„, tril.,. w"tli 1 "" «.l.nt ,. ,.o„v,.r«„ti„„. At Un a,„I TlZ north wl,i..|, t,ik,.„ it„ ,.i„e |r.„ . „o,„e „ , „,* ,t Hhort , ,„t„,„,.e t„ the :,ort ,„t: ■. tl,iH „tream «^ gav,. he na,„e ofSt„„ei,l„| e,-,,.k, lor .titer u,lu,^ « w, o,v a„,l H,u„l i„,a„,, j,,„t above i,„ , , utT we .I,«.overed that a lew ,„ile„ u^.,, ,»,"■* ; M,HHo„r, th,.n. are two „«„,„.„ re«.,„|„i„,. ,,„„;; Jhe,rh,Bt„ry """>""'""' "'« ".rtan.or„h„«. .f <>v,a A yo„„B,na.. wa„ ,|,H.„|y ,.,„„„„„„,- ^^jj,, a s,r who* |.are„t» n.li,„e,l th,i, „„e„t t., the marnase The yoath went out i„to the VwsT, monrn 1„„ „„„,ort„ne«; ,t «,.,„„athy olli.,.|S the My to the Ha,„e „p„t, a„,l the faith u,W would „„t eea« to Ibllow hi. ,„a«ter. .Alter wa„ denng together a„,I havi„s nothing but ~ to «ul.«,Bt on, they were at Ia»t eonverted h'to itone bunch ol grapes whieh the female holds in her hands tothisday. Whenever the lUcaraapa^Uhe^ 159 ;i *^#4i. \ m \\\ n« LEWIS AND CLAEK'S EXPEDITION sacred stones, they stop to make some offering of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is the ac count given by .he Ricara chief which we had no mode of examining, except that we found one part of the story very agreeably confirmed; for on the river near where the event is said to have oc- curred, we found a greater abundance of fine grapes than ive had yet seen. Above this is a small creek four and a half miles from Stoneidol creek, which is fifteen yards wide, comes in from the south, and received from us tlie name of Pocasse or Hay Creek, in honour of the chief of the second village. Above the Kicara island, the Missouri becomes narrow and deeper, th( sandbars being generally confined to the points; the cur- rent too is much more gentle; the timber on the lowlands is also in much greater quantities though the high grounds are still naked. We pro- ceeded on under a fine breeze from the southeast and after making eighteen miles encamped on the north near a timbered low plain, after which we had some rain and the evening was coU. The hunters killed one deer only. tianday, 14th.— We set out in the rain which continued during the day. At five miles we came to a creek on the south, about fifteen yards wide and named by us Piaheto or Eagle's Feather in honour of the third chief of the Eicaras. After dinner we stopped on a sandbar, and executed the sentence of a court martial which inflicted cor^ po.al punishment on one of the soldiers This operation affected the Indian chief very sensibly for he cried aloud during tlr^ punishment: we ex- plained the offence and the reasons of it He a<;knowledged that examples were necessary, and that he himself had given them by punishing with death; but his nation never whipped even children IGO UP THE MISSOUKI. from their birth. After thi« we continued with the wind from the northeast, and at the distance of twelve miles, encamped in a cove of the south- ern bank. Immediately opposite our camp en the north side are the ruins of an ancient fortification, the greater part of which is washed into the river- nor could we distinguish more than that the walls were eight or ten feet high. The evening is wet and disagreeable, and the river which is somewhat wider than yesterday, continues to have an unu- sual quantity of timber. The country was levelon both sides in the morning, but afterwards we passed some bla«K bluffs on the south Monday, loth.~\\e stopped at three miles on the north a little above a camp of Ricaras who are hunting, where we were visited by about thirty Indians. They came over in their skin canoes, bringmg us meat, for which we returned them beads and fishhooks. About a mile higher we found another encampment of Iticaras on he south, consisting of eight lodges: here we again ate and exchanged a few presents. As we went we discerned numbers of other Inaians on both sides of the river; and at about nine miles Ave came to a creek on the south, where we saw many ^iigh hills resembling a house with a slanting roof; and a little below the creek an old village of the Sharha or Chayenne Indians. The morning had been cloudy, but the evening became pleasant the wind from the northeast, and at sunset we halted, after coming ten miles over several sand- bars and points, above a camp of ten llicara lodges on the north side. We visited their camp and smoked and eat with several of them- thev all appeared kind and pleased with ^ur attentions and the fair sex received our men with more than hospitality. York was here again an object of Vol. 1.— 11 i(5X I '■ i ■';' : n ■ ,: ■ I ■ i I I' LIOWIS AND CLARK'S EXPIODITION aHtonishmcnt: \\w children would follow hhn con- Htantly, and if he chanced to turn towards them run with tt-reat terror. The country of to-dav jh Kth.~\t this camp the squaw who m^companied the chief left us; two others were very an.vious to go o„ with us. .Just above our camp we passed a circular work or fort where the Sharha or Chayennes formerly lived: and a short distance l^yond, a creek which we called Chay- (Mine creek. At two miles is a willow island with a larg:e sandbar on both sid(>s above it, and a creek, both on the south, which we called So- liawch, the liicara name for girl; and two miles ab<)ve a second creek, to which we gave the name ot ( haj)awt, which means woman in the same language. Three miles further is an island situ- ated in a bend to the north, about a mile and a half long, and covered with cottonwood. At the lower end of this island comes in a small creek from the north, called Keetooslisahawna or Place of Beaver. At the upper extremity of the island a river empties itself from the north: it is called Warrecoune, or '.:ik Shed their Horns, and is about thirty-five yards wide: the island itself is named (^arp island by lOvans, a former traveller As we proceeded there were great numbers of goats on the banks of the river, and we soon after saw large flocks of them in the water- they had been g -adually driven into the river by the Indians who now lined the shore so as to prevent their escape, and were firing on them, while some- times boys went into the river and killed them with sticks: they seemed to be very successful for we counted afty-eight which they had killed We 1G2 VI' THK MLSKOIJUI. oupHcIyes kill«l ho,,,,., „„,i then paH»i„K the lod,«.« i«ta„ce of h,.If a „,ile o„ the hoi.U,, havi„s n,. de ourtee,, a,„l a hah' „,ne«. We w.rc «..»„ virftoi l.y .m.„bep» of these Kicaras, who cros«e,J the rivTr haUooins and siagi,,^.; two of the,,, then returned or Ho,ne «oat»' fle»h an,l l„„ral„ „.eat dried and nl'hnent '"""' "" "''"^ ""'^'' ""■- '"«' r«/„««,/,.,,, ZW,.-The weather w,u, „l„a„ant: we pasBed a low ground covered with nmall ti.n- ber on the south, and barren hills on the north winch ca,ne close to the river; the wind lro,„ the n n.hwest hen heca.ne so strong that we could not ,>,ove after ten o'clock, until late in the alter- noiin, when we were forced to use the towline and we therefore n,ade only six ,„i|e We all went out hunting and examining the country i he goats, of wl,ich we see large flocks coming to the north hank of the river, spend the summer «ay„ M,-. .ravelines, in the plains east of the Mis' sour, a,.d at the present season are returning o the lihwk .nountains, where they subsist on leaves and Shrubbery during the winter, and resn,neth™ elk, and deer, and a number of snakes; a beaver house too was seen, and we caught a whip-poor- Tre f^t".. ",""' T "'"="""''<"' "ind: the leaves «e fast l,u„ng; the river wider than usual and full of srndbars, and on the sides of the hills are arge «tones, and so.ne rock of a brownish colour m the ^outhern bend below us. Our latitude by observation was 4(i 2;| 57 ^ mouth of Le Boulet or Cannonball river- this stream rises in the lilack mountains, and falls into 103 \li l^' l.KWIS AM) CLAKK'« EXPEDITION the AliHHouri on the south; its channel in about one hundred and forty yards wide, though the water is now conlined within ibrty, and its name 18 derived from the numbers of perfk'tly round large stones on the sliore and in the bluffs just above. We here met Avith two !• renehmen in the employ of Mr. (iravelines, who had been robbed by the Mandans of their traps, furs, and other articles, and were descending the river in a peri- ogue, but they turned back with us in expectation of obtaining redress through our means. At eight miles h a creek on the north, about twenty- eight yards wide, rising in the northeast, and called Chewahor Fish river; one mile above this 18 another creek on the south: we encamped on a sandbar to the south, at the distance of thirteen miles, all of which we had made with oars and poles, (ireat nunibers of goats are crossing the river and directing their course to the westward • we also saw a herd of buffalo and of elk- a peli- can too was killed, and six fallow deer, having found, as the Ilicaras informed us, that there a-e none of the black-tail species as high up as this place. The country is in general level and fine with broken short high grounds, low timbered mounds on the river, and a rugged range of hills at a distance. Fi'klny 7.9.— We set sail with a fine morning and a southeast wind, and at two and a half miles passed a creek on the north side: at eleven and a half miles we came to a lake or large pond on the same side, in which were some swans. On both banks of the Missouri are low grounds which have much more timber than lower down the river: the hills are at one or two miles distance irom the banks, and the streams which rise in them are brackish, and the mineral salts appear vi> THE Missonur. on the side, of the hills and edges of the runs In wa|k,n„ alo„K the shore we connted iifty two view. ItesHles the.se we also observed elk deer pe .cans, and wolves. .After seventeen and a half ■mles we encan„,ed on the north, opposi^^ o th com at the top, one beins; "bout ninety, another « xty feet in h,.i,-l,t, and so.ne of less I va „ , »..r chief tells us that the calnn.et bird lives™ tie holes forn,ed by the liltration of the witer from the top Of these hills through the .^TLtZ one of these moles, „„ a point of a hill ninety feet al»vethe„ i„_ are the ren.ains of an olHta^ which ,sb,Kh, strong, and has been fbrtilied ■ till our chief tells as is the remains of one of e Mandan villages, and are the first ruins which we have seen of that nation in ascending the All south, at the extremity of which is a ,,ond east wind winch continued high all day, and came twenty .vnrds wide. At eight miles we reached the ower point of an island in the middle of the river though there is no current on the souti Tlds Hland IS covered with willows and extends alo it two miles, there being a small ereek coi lit ^^ f.-ora the south at its lower extremity. .Arte maL ■ns- twelve miles we encamped on the south at 11^ ZTo ""* 1°' " ""■«■ '■""*"'""'« «*<"--'l of an on trd'e"; •t''^ ""■'-■Jiately below this bluff' a^d on the declivity of a hill, are the remains of a vil- ase covering six or eight acres, formerly occl ed by the Mandans, who, says our liicara hie, o ee ve 'tiiuir", " "/ "'^"^ ™ '^"^ ^'<''> °f *'" nvei, till the Moux forced them forty miles higher- Ki.'i ' tT. m LEWIS AND CLAKk-S EXPFOTTION who.uv. aftor a fow y(.a,.„ ,,.«!(],.„<.(., tl.ey inovtHl to tlu'ir i.rmMit pcHition. Tl,.. (.<,„„t. , through winch wo puHHod iHiH wider hoUo.uH and more tiinber than those we have hiu-n accuHton.(.d to Bee, the hillw rinin^r at a diHtance and by ^rradual ftHcentH. Wo IniveHeen^n-eatnnniherHof'elk deer jroatH and huttido, and the UHual attendantn of these last, the wolves, who follow their n.ove- ments and feed upon those who di(. l,v accident or who are too „o „• to keep pac(^ with the herd' we also Avonnded a white bear, and saw son.e fresh tracks of those aunnals which are twice m lar^e as the track of a num. Snwln,.- L^.-Lim ..j^-ht the weather was cold, the wind hi«h from (he northenst, and the rain which fell froze on the «ronnd. A wMvli^^ht it bt^anto snow, and continued (ill the afternoon when it remained cloudy and the ground was covered with snow. \\\^ however, set out early and just above our camp caine to a creek on the south, called (^hisshetaw, nbout thirty yards wide and with a considerable (luantity of water. Our Kicara chief tells us, that at some distance up this river is situated a lar^^e roek which is held in great veneration, and visited by parties who oo to consult it as to their own or their nations' destinies, all of which they discern in some sort of ii«iires or paintings with which it is covered About two miles oli' from the mouth of the river the party on shore saw another of the objects of iJicara superstition: it is a large oak tree, stand- ing alone in the open prairie, and as it alone has withstood the fire which has consumed every thing around, the Indians naturally ascribe to it extraordinary powers. One of their ceremonies is to make a hole in the skin of their necks through which a string is passed and the other end tied to 1(J0 I i I; II UP TTIR AfTSSOTIRT. the body (,f the tree; ftiul after nmrninrnfr in this way for Home time they think they become braver At two iiiileH from our (meampmeiifc we came to theruiUHora Hee«»ml Man.lan vilbiM-e, which waH inexiHtenceattheHMme time with that jUHt men- tioned. It iH Hituated on the north at the foot of a hill in a beautiful and exteuHive plain, which in now covered with herdn of buffalo: nearly opj.o- HiteareremaiuHofathird village on the nouth of the MiHHouri; and there in another alno about two nnleH further on the north, a little off the river. At the diKtance of Heven milcH we encamped on the Houth, and Hpent a cohl ni«ht. We procured to- day a buffalo and an otter only, ^fhe river in wide and the' HandbarH numerouH, and a low iHland near our encampment. Mond.'ij liL'.'^In the morning we paHwed an old Mandan village on the Houth, near our camp- at four milcH another on the name Hide. About weven o'clock we came to at a camp of eleven Sioux of the 'i\>ton tribe, who are almoHt perfectly naked having only a piece of nkin or cloth round the middle, though we are Huffering from the cold IVoni their appearance, which is warlike, and from their giving two different accounts of them- selves, we believe that they are either going to or returning from the Mandans, to which nations the Sioux frecpiently make excursions to steal horses As their conduct displeased us, we gave them nothing. At six we reached an island about one mile in length, at the head of which is a Mandan village on the north in ruins, and two miles be- yond a bad sandbar. At eight miles are remains of another Mandan village on the south; and at twelve miles encamped on the south. The hunters brought in a buffalo bull, and mentioned that of about three hundred which they had seen, there 1()7 „:'f'3il- I ! I II /■■ f. M«:W1S AM) CLAIfK'S i:\l'I>:i)ITI(),V w/iH not a Hin.«i:lo fiMiialo. TIh> 1 nmvvr in lioro In Pl|Mit.v. nn.l tho two Vwnrhmvu who a.v roturni„ir with iiH catch Hcvcral Th vvvvy iii^ht. ICHC Hcattcrcd nU illn«:cH which arc nine in nuiiil •iiK- each side of the river with >er are th P'U'c oCtwent.v niiicH; almost all that i«Mn JH the wall m hid in a reinaiiiH of I HI iM-oiin«le(l thenj, the lall- I covered the honHCH, and «'n heapH of earth whid <»''*'»Hi<)nall.v luin.an Kknlls and the tcth and'lM,. '»< men. mul different anin.als, which are Hcatte. <»n the Hnrfiice of tl X' KTonnd. MICH 'cd Tiwsihy L*:t.—T\w weath M- waw clondy and ti' '»«d Honio Hn.)w; we Hoon arrived at five lodifcH where the two rrenclnnen had h.-en robbed, but tlio Ind.anH had h.|t it latel.v as we fi.nnd the firen Htd bnrni..«-. The conntry connintH an umial of timbered h,w ^Tonnds. with ^uxp,^, runheH. and Rreat quantitieH of a sniall n-d aci.l fruit, known |imon«: the IndiauH by a nan.e Hi.unifvinft- rabbit- iHTncH and called by the I.'rench Mniisse de buttle '•'• l>»"alo fiit. The river too. in obntructed bv "jan.y HandbarH. At twelve nnlen we pasHed an old vdla|!:e on the north, which was the former residence of the Ahnahaways who now live be- tween the MandauB and AliniH>tarees. After n.ak uiff thirteen miles we encan.p(>d on the south ^^ ednos^lny o4.-.The day was a^ain dark and It snowed a little in the morninj;-. At three miles we came to a point on the south, where the river by forcing- a channel across a former bend has formed a large island on the north. On this island we found one of the ^vnm\ chiefs of the Alandans, who with five lodn "'Hi hol„vv th(, (.1(1 village of the ""HHM.l HirnruH. Hero fo„r Man.l HUH caiiK^ IVfliriKMl with th«Mll t(. tl ftUM-m- (iiv(Minil»lv oC their 've, and our Kicara chief eiU'h othe covenul will '•• Tlw land iH 1 "•'ircarnp, from which we paci/ic viewH towardn () I oak and cott vv and he/intif'ul, and too recently hunted to aHbrd onwood, hut haH I H'en iATZ/y.—^riie niuch ^anie. ^, ,. '"«>niinM- wan cold and the wind Mvntle Iron, the Houtheant: at three nn'leH we PHHHedahandHonM.hi«hpraineonthe„outha, "^'"'*'''''''"'''--MMM.t forty IW^t above the tr --1 I'xtondinM- back lor neveral ndlen in a bcll^^^^^^ '"I Pi'un waH Hituated an o|,| village of the Man '^'^" ""ti-; which haH been denerted for ,nCv J^.rH AHln,rtdiHtanceab<>.cit,onthe(.(.nt;;n:' t (>«(•! the Hanie r.H,nM- «r(>und are two old vi|- l^KCH of {.caran, one on the top oi' the hill the o ^.- .n the level plain, which h,^e been d^ <>»ly /'ve yearn a^o. Above thene viHairc^B ;„ „„ oxt(M.Hive low ..round for neveral rnil « '" .". c -- H.tuated, at three or four ndles' fron he 't.eara villao-en, three old villa^.eH of Mandan„ ;;-r to«.ther. Here the Mandann lived w e ," .earan can.e to them for protection, and fh, n - th(^y nn,ved to their prenent nituation abo" the ow ..round the nquavvH rained their corn, he tnnber, of which there wan little near th(^ Uft s, was Hupplied from the opponite Hide of the river, where it was and ntill in abundant. both onl^r^'f f "'^''^' ^'"^^^'^'^ ^^^' ^^'^^"d^ns both on foot and horneback came alon,. the river should land and talk to them: thin we could not do on account of the sandbreakn on the shore, but 1()9 ; I *ji IK' LKWKS AND (!LAItK'H FOXIMCDITK )IV wo Hpiit our Kicani vhH' (<» t| 'riio wind too I l> uivin^- HhiCfril to tl K'lii in II, [((Tio^tip. '"'R very lii^l, if, rninircd /i|| H' HoiiclivvoHt and our pnrautionH on '"'7': ''»•• <'"' Hv.T WHH full <,r„„n(lhnrH which ""•"^•'•t v.Tvdi(ll,.uIt tolind thorhnnuH. WV .^.t nw:nuind hovth.! tinu>H. nnd puHHcl a vory Imd P'»«'t of rori^H. naov wInVh vv(. ."ncaiupcd on a Handpo.nt to tho north, nhoy. a lu.ndHomo plnin «'<.vm.l with tin.lK.r. an to a hi„h hill on tlu> Houth Hi.lo at the diHtanco .»f cl.y,.,, .nih^H Hero wo w,>ro join.,! I,y our m.ara clm.i; wh.i »>rou«ht an Indian to tlu- onn.p whor. ho nMnaino(l(h.~\yv Not out early with aHouthwoHt wind mid attor putting- th<. Hicra olnVr an nlu.ro to join tho MandauH who woro in ^ront nun.borH HloiiM- It., wo pnu'oodod to tho oan.p (,f tho Mrnnd •• MotH our nnloH diHtant. Jloro w- nu>t a Mr. AI ( raokon ono of tho northwont or Hudson Hay ^•<;»»Pan.y, who arrivod with nnothor p,«rHou »«»<>».t nino i]nyH n^o to trado tor hornoH and huti Mo robos. Two of tho ohi,>tH ca.uo on board with 8onie of thoir houHohohl furniture, huoI. an earthorn pots and a little par y a..,„,r. ,h« .oulUU.u: of tho Ma,.„a„,s ,.y u.k,„; Pirt in M„.|, roMtrov.-rsy wi(h thr Sl,.„x H.-il^lon of J Ma,ulans,a,. fl.Hr sln^nlar ..o.avplion of tl... ,onn m..r.-At, an early I,(,„r we pnuMHvUMl a:.,l anchorod (.(ni.o villairo. Captain <'lark wont en hIuto. and after ninokin^r a pipe with tho (JiiHs, wiH (h.Hircd to HMiiain and ont with thoin. lit. (hrhnod on account of J>iH l)ein^r uinyoll; but hiH rduHal ^avo ^ivat offlMu-o to the hidiaiiH, who consi(h'r(>d it diHiVHpoctful not to eat when invit(>d. till the cauHo was exphiined to their Hatisf-iction. Wo nent them s(„ne tobacco, and then pro(.ee,h>(l to the second vilJaM.. on the north passin^rb.va, bank containino- eoal, and a second village, and eneanii-ed at (bur miles on the north opposite to a village of Ahnahawa.vs. We here met with a Frenchman, named Jesseaun.e, who hves amonj.- the Indians with his wife and chil- ilren, and who we take as an interpreter The Indians had Hocked to the bank to see us as we passed, and they visited in ^-reat numbers the camp, where some of them remained all night We sent in the evening three young- Indians with 172 \ *b.«' V Ul' TIIIO MISSOIIKI. a pn'Hont of UAuwo fi.i the HiicfH ot'ilw tlim^ vntvr villM^cH, iiiviHiiK HuMii Id (•(•iimmIowii in th<. .«ioNiin« (() ,1 ,.(,uii,.i| with UH. Acconliiiirly the next {]t\y, y,un(h,v, Ontohnr L'S, we wciv j.)iM,.(l by ,nnny of tho MiiiiK.tnrccH /uul AlnmliawnyH Iroi,, 'nium-, l)iit tlic wind wnn ho vioh-nt In.ni tlip HonMiWMt tliiif, thrclnVlH olilM. lower villnKVH couM not, <.(,ni(. „,,' and tin- ronncil w/ih drlrm-d Ml! to inomnv hi tho nnwin wl.il(. wr cntcrtnlncd onr viHltorn by HlH.wn.M' Mmmm what, w/ih new t(. tln'm in tin' »M)Mt; nil whirl), nn well onr ohick Hcrvunt thcv cMllcd (irn/H .M,.,|i,.i,u., (Ih. nM.anin^^ oC which wo 'Htvrw/inl. .nnt. Wo nino conHnltrd Mh' khmmI eliicr of tin- Mandnns, ({|nck Cat, and Mr .loh- Hcannn., aH t.» tlic nanicH, (•harac(..rH, ,V-,-., of ih« cIuHh with whoi;i we arc to hohl the (Maincil In tlio eonrHc of the d hominy, and garden HtuflH: in onr tnrn we ^rati- seemed well disposed, and all smoked with hini very amicably. We all mentioned the goods which luKi been taken from the Frenchmen and expressed a wish that they should be re^ stored. This being over, we proceeded to distrib- ofe ch T'"*' "''*'' ^"'"^ eeremony: one chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a ffeather. "'^ **''':.'' ""''"™' «'^*' hat and feather: to the second chieft we gav„ a medal representing some domestic animals, and a loom for weaving; to the tiiird chiefs mcials with the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other presents were distributed, but none seemed to give them more satisfaction than an iron corn mill w,iich we gave to the JIandans. o. I.g White, ,1 first chief, and Kagohami or Lit- tie Itaven, a second chief of the lower village of 1~4 UP THE MISSOURI. the Mandans, called Matootoiiha: the other chiefg of an inferior quality who were recommended were, 1. Ohheenaw, or lii^. Man, a Chayenne taken priHoner by the Mandans who adopted him and he now enjoys |t?reat consideration among the tribe 2. Shotahawrora, or Coal, of ti second Mandan village which is called Kooptahee We niade Poscopsahe, or lUack Cat, the first chief of the village, and the grand chief of the whole Man- dan nation: his second chief is Kagonomokshe, or Haven man Chief; inferior chiefs of this village were J awnnheo, and Bellahsara, of .vhich we did not learn the translation. In the third village which is called Mahawha and where the Arwacahwas reside, we made one first chuf, letuckopinreha, or White Buffalo robe unfolded, and recogniml two of an inferior order- Minnissurraree, or Neighing Morse, and Locon- gotiha, or Old woman at a distance Of the fourth village wher. the Minnetarees live and which is called Metaliarta, we made a first chief, Ompsehara, or Black Moccasin: a second chief, Ohhaw, or Little Fox. Other distinguished chiefs of this village were, Mahnotah, or Bier Thief a man whom we did not see as he is out fighting' and was killed soon after; and Mahserassa,orTail of the Calumet Bird. In the fifth village we made 1 ffv 'I ^^^'^I^'^^^oi^^' «r Hed Shiel.l; a second chief Wankerassa, or Two Tailed Calumet Bird both young chiefs; other persons of distinction are, Shahnkohopinnee, or Little Wolf's Medicine- Ahratcanamockshe, or Wolfman chief, who is now at war, and is the son of the old chief we have mentioned, whose name is Caltalicota, or Cherrv on a Bush. "^ The presents intended for the grand chief of the Minnetarees, who was not at the council, were 175 i i i i 1 i . I i) LKWIS AND CLAHK'S KXI'EDITION WMit to hiiu oy tlu« 1,1(1 chirf Cnltuhcota; and we (U'liv(M-o(l to a ymiuix chief tlioHo intended or the chief of the lower village. The eonneil wan con- clnded by a Hhot from our Hwivel, and after iirini.- the airj-nn for their anniKenient, they retired to deiil)erat<» on the anHwer whieh tliey are to give to-morrow. In the evening- the prairie took fire, either by accident or desioj,, iiiid burned Avith j.reat furv, the Avhole i)lain l,eino- enveloped in ilanieH: so rapid was its progress that a man and a Avoman Averv burnt to death before they could reach a plaee of saiety ; another man wkh his wile and child were much burnt, and several other i)erson8 narrowly escai.ed destruetion. Amonj.- the rest a boy of the half white breed escaped unhurt in the midst of the flames; his snfely was ascribed to the M-reat medicine spirit, who had preserved him on account of his bein- white. Hut a much more natural cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who seeinn- „<, i,op,.H of carry in/:;- off her son, threw him ..n the j-round, and covering- him with thefresli hide of a buffalo, escaped herself from the flames; as soon as the fire had passed, whe returned and found him untouched, the skiii havino- j)revented the ffame from reaching'- the grass on which lie lay. Tucsd.'iy ;}(K~\\e Avere this morning visited by two persons from the lower village, one the Hig White the chief of the vi^age, the other the Chay- enne called ;he I^i >• .Man; they had been hunting, and did not retur.- .a •Nterdny enrly enough to at- tend the .uuncil, a. vheir re(p.iest Ave rei)eated part of our t^|>eech of yesterday, and j)ut the medal round the ncri. .fthe chief. Captain Clark took a* periogu- iwd went ap the river in search of a good wintering place, i.iid returned alter going seven 17(J ..■. v^ nr Till] MiHsouHi. miloH to the lower point of an iHl,ind on the north Bide about one mile in leni^th; he found the bankw on the north „ide l.i^h, with eoal oe.aHionally and he country fine on all Hiden; but the want o f wood and the Hcarcity of ^anie up the river in- dueed UH to decide on fixing. ourHelven lower down dunn^r tiH. wint«>r. In the evenin^^ our men danced arnon^^ theniHelven to the great an.u.ement or the Indians. Wednenday m.-X Hecond chief arrived thin mormnj,^ wit! an invitation from the ^muid chief ot the MandauH, to come to hin v.qiage where he wiHhed t. prenent Heme corn to U8 an,J to npeak with UH. (ar.tain Clark walked down to his viL- lage; he was firHt Heated with «reat ceremony o„ a robe by tl,e nicle of the chi(^f, who then threw over hiH MhoulderM another robe handnonjely orna- ineirted.Tlie pipe wan then nmoked with several o the old men .vho were neated around the chief- after nome time he began hiH dincourHe, by obnerv- ing that he believed what we had told him, and that they Hhould Boon enjoy peace, A^^^ich would gratify him an well an hin people, because they could then hunt without fear of being attacked, and the women might work in the fields without looking- every moment for the enemy, and at ni^^ht T ut off their moccanins, a i.hrane by which in con- veyed the Idea of security when the women could . :aar..s at niMht without fear of att.ick. As to the liicaran, lie continued, in order to show you that we wish pe.'..e with all men, that chief, point- • ing .o liis second chic:, will go with some war- riors back to the Kicaras v/ith their chief now here and smoke with that nation. When w« heard of your coming all the nations aroun.^ returned from their hunting to see you, in hopes of rece; ing large presents; all are disappointed and some dis- vol. 1.-12 177 I LIOWIS AND CLAItK\S EXPKDITION Hi ■ rontcMlcd; I'ov Im'h part lie w aH not iiiiicl) HO, H' would tlMMi^h liiH villanv wmh. lie oddcd (Imt 1 K<) nnd Kcc his j^rc/il Ihllicr (he prcsidcni. Two of the Htrcl tnips ntolcii i'roni (h(> rnMicliiiuMi wcro ilu'ii hiid l)(>|oiT cnptaiii Chirk, jiiid (lie woiucn bronchi about twelve lniHhclH of corn. Alter t lie ohiel" luul liniHhed. enptain Clark mad e an answer to the speeeh and tluMi returned to the boat wluM-e h(» round the ehiel'orthe third vill »!>;•(« and Kaj;-ohanii (the Littl(> Haven) who Hniok<>d and talked about an hour. After they left the boat the/^rand chief of the Maudan s c.Muu' dresHcd in tlu^ clothes we had /^iveu hin>, with his two children, and be^-^ed to see the nuMi , set out to-day on \n» return to the Hritish fort and tact sted some that we would call at their villao-e fb,- Home corn, that they wen* willino- to make peace with the Uicaras. that tlM\v had nev(M- provoked the Avar between them, but as th(> Hicaras had killed of their chiefs they had retaliated on them; that they had killed tluMu like birds, till they were tired of killing- them, so that they Mould send a. chief and some warriors to snu)ke with them. In the evenino- w^ dro|)ped down to the lower village where captair i.ev,;^ went on shore, and captain ('lark proceeded side. to ii point of wood on the north FrUhiy, Xovomhrr L\—lh\ theref 178 ore went ujj to VV Till] MISSOIfia. the villa^ro whoro ok-vcn huHhclH of vmu won. pro sontcMl to iMM.. In tho .umntiuH. n,„ta,in (!l'u-k went <1„WM with th(. iM.atH thm- n.il.H, and hav- in^^ found n,«oo.I ponilion wh.M-o th.To whh plenty !''. !'"'"''■' •'"•'••>"'I»('(1 nn.l hv^au to M\ t.voH to m.Id on,- hntH. Our liimra H.iolH.t. out with ono Alandan chn-Cnnd hvvwiM Alinnotaivo and iManda,, warno,-s;tJ.o wind wan fn.n. the nonthi^ant, an.l the wcathc... hcinM- hue a crowd <.r IndiauH caine down to vinit uh. »SV//,//v/,,.»;/._\Vonow bo^.a,,. the bniidin^^ oC„„r cabins, and tin. Fn-nchnicn who aiv to irturn to M. lAuuH are buildinM" ^ |HTio«no for the pnrpoHO VVo Hont Hix men in a p,Tio«ne to hunt down the nver. We w(.re alno tortn.iate (MionMh to ennau-e in our Hei-viee-a Canadian Freneh.nan, who bad l)(vn with the Chayenne IndiauH on the lUaek in(»untainH, and bist Hununer deHeended thenee bv the Little MiHMonri. Mr. .JeHH,.iuu,e onr intei-- proter alno eain*. ,b»wn witii hiH H(p,aw and ehii- ^h'vn to live at onr e*. -p. hi the evening we re- ceived a viHit Iron. Ka«-oha.ni or l.ittl(> Itaven whoHe wife aceon.panied bin., briuKin^. about Hixty Ave.«l,t ofdn(>d nu.it, a robe and a pot of meal. \\o ^ave him in return a, pi(re of tobacco, to 118 wde an axe and a lew Hmall articlen, and both of them npent the ni^ht at our camp. Two beaverH were caught in trapw thin mornin^r. Sum/ny /.-We continued our labourH: the tim- ber which we (Muploy is lar^v and heavy, and chiefly couHiHtH of Cottonwood and (.|m with Home anh of an inlerior nize. (ireat innnbei-H of the In- diaiiH paHH our cainp on their ln,ntin«- cAcurHionH- the day waw clear and ph^anant, but laHt iii.rht was very cold and there waw a white froHt Momhiy J.-The Jndians are all out on their Hunting parties: a camp of Mandans caught 170 |.^ 11 11 l.KWIS AND Cr.AIlKS IOXI'|<:i)ITl()N within two «1m.vh one hniidird ^nxitH a Hliort dis- tniuv below us: tlu>ir i.mmIc of hunting- (I,,.,,, jh to form a JnrHo Htroii^r j„.„ or Told, ih,,,, wJ„vii „, li'iico made of buHJios Mraduull.y widtuH oi, each Hd(>: the animals are HurroiuKh'd by the Iniiitcrs and }rvnt\y driven towards this i)en, in wliich they impereeplibl.vlind themselves inelosed and are Ihe'n at the nuMTj of the Jiunters. 'IMie weather i« cloudy and tlio wind moderate from the north- west. Late at nioht we wimt awaked by the sergeant on Kuard to see the beautiful phenon'ienon called the northern liuht: alonj.- the northern sky was a largo space oecupi(>d by a liMht of a pale but brilliant white ctdour: wliich rising.- from the horizon extended itself to nearly twenty dc'grees above it. Alter j.litterinj.- tor some 'time its colours would be overcast, and almost obscured, but ao-ain it would burst out with renewed' beauty; the unilbrm colour was pale light, but its Hhapes were various and lantastic: at .iines the Hky was lined with lio-ht coloured streaks risinj.- perpendicularly from the horizon, ajid j.radually expandino- i„to a body of light in which we could trace the tloating columns sometimes advancing, Hometimes retreating and shajMug into inlinite forms, the space in which they moved. It all faded away before the morning. At day- light, Tiws(hiy a, the clouds to the north were (dark- ening and the wind rose high from the northwest at eight o'clock, and continued cold during the day. Mr. (iravelines and tour others who came with us returned to tlie Kicaras in a ymall peri- ogue, we gave him directions to accompany some of the Kicara chiets to the seat of government in the spring. Weduosday 7.— The day was temperate but 180 fl' TIIK MLSWOimi. w.l , ,„„■ „..,rk win, „„„.|, ,.,|„.,ii,inn. /»»«,/..,,• .s.._TI„. ,„..n,i„« „„,u„ ,|,„„Iy; our ".tH ,t,Iv,„K.„ v,.,..y „.,.|1, ,MKl ,ve an, vIhI , 1 |v ""' -"l-'iKlianHwi,,,, („ IK, tl„.i,. 1, ,• '™ „"■ 1 ' '-"•"""• '" ' "•«!'* ti.,,v ,„,. ...,n,.t..,i i< .„•„, nntn.,„„„ H„,l a..,. ,1,,,. ,o,mI: tl,.- >•"■■-;« H.C .la,. ,.l..„.lv «„,! J,,., ,, „,, ,,„ , " » nil h « a« l,l«,.k : fjivai, niMr,lH.,-« „C «i|,l „,, ar,. i-H«.„, t,, t,„. „.„«„ „„t ,„„„. ,,,,„ i„ ;;;:,.- loi K to |ii-oi'ui-(' any of tlicni *';•'■'"/"■'• ?'/.-»■.. I,a,l a«a'in a ra,v .lay a " K on workH l„.(o,-,. th,. ,.xtr<.ni,. coW l„„-„„ a .■laof wl,o,H ahaln.«.ntori,alral,n.lalo, inn.tnrn|br\vS we gave Inn, «,.„,„ „,„a|| ,„,,„„„t„ ,,„„ „,i„^ ,„.,;. *" " '.'", "■'''■.'""' ''>"■■ '>'• *'"■■' '■■•<'«-l the riler ';.''!;"" f '" "."'"•■; '"" "'"^'t-k the boat on off : I T"'""' •' *" *"« ""■•'«'^ "'f"" ""!«« tew (lucka arc i,aHH,ns.- towanlH tl,e Konth the viHit of two 8,inawH, m^isonero IVom the Kock ."..n„ta,„„, a„,l ,n„.cha«,l l,y (;habo„«a„ The AIm„l«„„ at thi« ti,„e are out hnntins the b,„! Mouthy v.'.. -The last night ha.I b«.n col,] an.I ch<,i o,,al,|,. „„r,ng tl,e ,lay, and «o,ne ice appear-, on the e.lg.e« oCthe rivers; »wan» too are paSlg 181 '' w I m:\vis and (m.akks kximodition to tho Houlli. Tho U'nr WUiU} hn vin«: V'H'\uh\ oil (Iu« back of I vtuiw VomxilH ol'vvry (ino nu'/it: for wl.iVI. wo trilXO hill, as WrII MH (1.0 HqiWlW H(MMC prCHCUtH, particularly an nxc (o (I waH vor.v mucli pl(>aHi>«l, ic woinaii with which who Tursd.'tx /.v.— \\V (I luxit and Ht«»W(Ml hoii UH uiornin^; unN»a(h'(l tho awa,.v the C(uitcutH in a Ht ort»- Hc which wc have l.uilt. At haW pant, ten ice J)c«an to fh)at course of the niorniu^ we W(>r«> viHitcd hy the niack rat. I'oHcapsahe. who brought an Ah- Hiuiboin chief and man, whoH(» name Ih Chechawl Hcven warriorH toHceuH. TIuh k. In a chief of one out of three bandn of AHNiuilMniiH who \\ amlei <)V(>r the plaiiiH l)etween the I\l lw»iu duriiij;- the hui iHHouri /ind AHHini- th unier, and in the winter e spoils of their hunting;- to the trad carry Assiniboin river, and ers on tho place: the whoh' tlir(>e l>a!ul ei^iht liuudred iikmi. Wc ^ave jiii occasionally come to th IH H consist of about tobacco to smoke with his peoplo, and cord for himself: the Si u a twist of a «()hl which we refused t es of Assiiiil in«- ice. 'fliiH Home snow: about sev- )oius and some Knistenau: are at the Mamlau villaj.-e, and this 1 )ein^- the ay of adoi)tion ami exchange of property be- accompanied hy a dance, ndiauH tween them all, it i which prevents our seeing- more than two I to-dav: tl He Knistenaux are a band of (^hippe- yn whose lan^uane they speak; tlu^y live on the wa Assiniboin and Saskashawan about rivers, and n two hundre<>(tMi(> proviHioiiH \v(> Imiv t'VcniiiM'. Two riviicl iTtiinicd with (wciitv I H uc MpprrliriKi n Oiiliin- of <' n'roiirHc to our pork II IIIK'II wIm, |,„,I |„.,.„ |,,.| IIH OW t'aii«lir, ill trapH. Thnrsilny /.7.— 'IM the K'c niiiiiin^r Miick,.,. ||„^„ .y iKwivcr wliidi M„.y |„^,| "' "KMMiin^r n^viin rlou.lv. mikI v/irijiMc. Th .Vt'Hicnl (> III '>.v, Mm- wind 'HI cMJiK. iHU'ii wiM, iiiibriiint i\\i\\. our liiiiiicrH were ixhunl {\ ion and we iniiiiedi,ilelv Heiit, nwil; o Mii.ir wn.y lliroii^li (lie f|„n,( "••t.v niileH Itelow, Hn ord(-r l«, M„.,ii |,, MuMii in which we Hcid ""K^ i('<', lo /IHHint tli(^ .V«'Hterd/i V Heein < |M'rio;.ue nnd n, towr<>pe. 'V\ Home (ill lor (he l.ow of viHi(,ed by u Hin^I.. Indi/ui. Tl pnHHinj;- (o (he hoii(|i i<^ eereniony o|" ••/'•'>'<'""<' H(,ill, (or w,. were'n(.t «<' Hwun are Htlll /'/•/VA t.y /'/.—We hnd and (he wenlher eloiidy. 'V\ a very h/ird wlii((. froHt "H iiiofnin«-, (,Ih. ,,,,.h aiv /ill covered wi(| I ice. nto (,li(> liiitH, nl(lioii;;li II 'lien (IiIh dny moved (h( cveniiin- Home liorHCH K'y nre no(, (iniHhed, |„ woodH nenr iih in order ( Ntolen by Mi,» AHHinil (UiKy '\H wen^ Hen(, down (o (Ik, I'l-evenI, (heir |)eiii«- H'lllH, Willi whoi now apprehended. An Ind with lonr bndiilo rol,(>H and ollered (or a piHiol, hul a Home dillj- ian c.'iiiK? down Home corn, which ho Siilnnlny, Xovcm/trr 17.~\ wan reliiHed. fold, and ( li(» i( AXH i Ul\r\\t waH \{^Vy hitherto. Wo aro totnll but received vinitH Iron «'ia the river to-d.'iy in (hid; <'!• liian Snntl.uy, Novomhrr /,s'.— 'Po.d windy morning-; the HIack (! ami occupied \\h (or a 1 y occupied widi our liutH. I Hcveral IndiaiiH. ay we had a cold -■It ca,ni(> t <> HOC UH, the uHa^( council the Htato on^- (inie with (picHtionH HO en held yenterday to deliberate on ol their ailairH. It HoomH that not lonir LKWIS AXD (JLAKK'S KXV KinruK if r i nffo, u party of Sioux fell bel( >iiKin^^ to the Miniietij in with Hoino horscH off"; l)iit in their fli^rht tl HM'H, uiid t'HrricU the Ahh,„,.„.,„„ who kille,! tlu. Si.,„x ,„,„ u^'Z Lornen: a French,,,,,,, t„o wl,,, h,.,I lived rn.uv K«r« ,u„o„« the .M„„.I„„., „„„ lately kill«l "^ 1"B route to the liriti.h fhetory ..„ the AH»i,„"„,i„ orne «„.a er ,Iifte,,.„..,.H exiKt,.! hetwee,. th "„' cletKlcl that they w.,„hl not reHent the reee„t i„- H"It« ro„. the A„si„il,„i„„ „„,, K„i„,e„„„,;, , t I they had „«.„ whether we had dec-eived th;,, o •H> ". our p,.o„,i„e« ofT„r„i«hi„«. the,,, with ar„"« H.,d ,u,„„„„itio„. They had ..ee„ di„a„„„i, te, i„ the,r l,ope« ofreceivi,,;, , „,„ ,i,„„ .„,, ,, „^^7^ '" »ere afraid that we too. Uke l,i„,, „.i,,h :,rtl«m what wa, „ot true. W,. a,lvi«.d the,n to cent i,™ at I eace, that supplies o( every kind wouUI , o doubt arnve for the,,,, hut that ti,„e was ,,eceB «ary to organize the fa.le. The fact i« tha t ,e A«s.n,bo„.« treat the Maudans as the 8iou.x do t e toaras; by their vicinity to tl,e B,.itisi, th ; get .11 the supphes, wl,i,.h ,l,ey withhold or giv^^at pleasure to the re,noter lndi,ii.«. ti,„ i« tl, ,t t,„ ""•^"" inuians: the consequence 8, that however badly feated, the Manda, s and U,caras are very slow to retaliate lest they shot.M lose their trade altogether .Uowh,y 7.9.-The ice continues to float in the nver the wind high fro,,, the northwest a „d the weather cold. Our hunters arrived f 17 the r xcurs.on below, and bring a very hue supply of of which **:' *™" '""' '^"'' «™ bufllf al of which was h,ing in a sinokehouse 7«e«7.v oft_We this day moved into our huts call I ort Mandan, is situated in a point of low ground, on the north side of the .Missouri, covered 181 Ill' TiiK Missoimr. with tall and lit' Hist of* two rovvM of imt iivy cotton wood. The work H Con- or Hhcds, f'onniii^ an an«le where they joiiu-d each other; each tainin^'' four rooniH. of foiirtt en feet row con- and ,. ^ , . . -" —I' Hquare ana Heven h'et h,«h, with plank ceiling., and the roof HlantuiM- HO as to form a \ott al,ove the rooms the iHKheHt part of which in eighteen feet from' the Kronnd: ti,e backs of the huts formed a wall of that height, and opposite the an^Ie the j.Iace of the wall was supplied hy picketinj^: in the area were two rooms for stores and provision.. The latitude by observation is 47^ 21' 47' and the computed distance from the mouth of the Missouri sixteen hundred miles. In the course„of the day several Indians came down to partake of our fresh meat; anionir the rest, three chiefs of the second Mandan village Ihey inform us that the 8ioux on the Missouri above the C'hayenne river, thn'aten to attack them this winter; that these i^^ioux are much irri- tated at the J{icaras for havin- made peace throu«-h our means with the Mandans, and have lately ill treated three Iticaras who carried the pipe of peace to them, by beating them and tak- ing away their horses. We gave them assurances that we would protect them from all their ene- mies. XovPwhor 21sf. -The weather was this day fine • the river clear of ice and rising a little: we are now settled i i our new winter habitation, and shall wait with much anxiety the first return of spring to continue our journey. The villages near which we are established are five in number, and are the residence of three dig tmct nations: the Mandans, the Ahnahaways, and the Minnetarees. The history of the Mandans, as we received it from our interpreters and from the 185 'h% ,%, ^. ^*^. ,0. ^... \^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) A //A /■/ €> 1.0 I.I 11.25 2.5 2.0 1 1.8 \A. ill 1.6 Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ,# V :\ \ ^ iv^ •^ A'*' «^'.<^ t/i \ ^ M.i: •n 1 III : I ■If LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION chiefs themselves, and a. it is attested by existina monuments, illustrates more than thlt o any other nation the unsteady movements and the tottenng fortunes of the American nations VV.thm the recollection of living witnesses the Mandans were settled forty years ago in nL WI lages, the ruins of which we passed about eighty miles below, and situated seven on the west and two on the east side of the Missouri. The two no^'Id th 't™' "'^""'^ "™^ *"<"■"« the small- pox and the Sioux, united into one village and moved up the river opposite to the liicaraf' The same causes reduced the remaining seven to bodvloT n" "' ''"«*" *'"^^-i«ted in : body to the Kicara nation, where they formed themselves mto two villages, and joined those^ their countrymen who had gone before them In length the three villages ascended the Missouri to their present position. The two who had emi grated together still settled in the two viUages on the northwest side of the Missouri, whilehe dng.e village took a position on the southeast side In this situation they were found by those who visited them in 3790 ; since which the'two "u:^: have united into one. They are now in two ^1 lages, one on the southeast of the Missouri, the other on the opposite side, and at the distance of three miles across. The first, in an open olain contains about forty or fifty iodges, bui t in the sam. way as those of the Kicaras: the second, the same number, and both may raise about thre^ hundred and fifty men. On the same side of the river, and at the dis- tance Of four miles li-om the lower Mandan village IS another called Mahaha. It is situated in a h^h plain at the mouth of Knife river, and is the re£ 186 t! UP THE MISSOURI. dence of the Ahnahaways. This nation, whose name indicates that they were "people whose vil- lage is on a hill," formerly resided on the Missouri, about thirty miles below where they now live. The Assiniboins and Sioux forced them to a spot five miles higher, where the greatest part of them were put to death, and the rest emigrated to their present situation, in order to obtain an asylum near the Minnetarees. They are called by the French, Soulier Noir or Shoe Indians; by the Mandans, Wattasoons, and tb^ir whole force is about fifty men. On the south side of the same Knife river, half a mile above the Mahaha and in the same open plain with it, is a village of Minnetarees surnamed Motaharta, who are about one hundred and fifty men in number. On the opposite side of Knife river, and one and a half mile above this village is a second of Minnetarees, who may be considered as the proper Minnetaree nation. It is situated in a beautiful low plain, and contains four hundred and fifty warriors. The accounts which we re- ceived of the Minnetarees were contradictory. The Mandans say that this people came out of the water to the east, and settled near them in their former establishment in nine villages; that they were very numerous, .' J fixed themselves in one village on the southern side of the Missouu. A quarrel about a buffalo divided the nation, of whi-h two bands went into the plains, and were known by the name of Crow and I'aunch Indians, and the rest moved to their present establish- ment. The Minnetarees proper assert, on the con- trary, that they grew where they now live, and will never emigrate from the spot ; the great spirit having declared that if they moved they would all die. They also say that the Minnetarees Meta- 187 f' I. i hmm AND OLARKVS EXPEDITION luirta, th.it 18 Minnetaree8 of the WHIowh whn«« Inn,.ua,.e with very little variatlcn is t^u'r ^w. eaiiie many yeai-H aLr(> fro,,, h. i ■ "' near then, uli f '"' ^''""'" "»<^ «^'ttled uar them, ar.d perhapH the two traditioiiH nu,v l>ro Kr. I l,e»e Minuftare,.s nrc part of tliP ..,-p„f ..atjon called I-a,, ,„„,■„,„, who oclpv fe h Z ..edrnte country between the MiJJlZdte ^a»kaHkawan, and who are known by the name rt*r,;:r ;r.r""-:';."-' «'~^^^^^^ , 2«ka»kawan, These Minnetaree« inde«l, to d ua in war . nd having engaged in the night were astmuehed at dincovering that they were Xhw with n„.n who «„oke their own langna- S i::tti^°"r:7r''"^'''^'"^^'^«''"^^ n , ■ ' ''" "" *" "" the Fall Indians moV;*:'; : t, xr The\h'"T' "™ "' "'"- «+..,wi • ^7 t^inei. ihe Ahnahaways under- d alect of the Mandans differs widely from both blended'^ *-' "'"'^™'' ^''S'^*"- "»« "'— ; Wended their manners, and occasioned some ao Sofdan" '" "'"*'"■''««■ 1'articnlar.yar toT ^o,° 1 ^?r"r;:r '""'.°''"'- *<> «- sen.es. Jay warm wr ,. '''""*'^ ""^ "»"' ''■«' the QuantTtvTf """'"'"el from the Mandans a quantity of corn of a mixed colour, which thev dug „p .„ ears from holes made nea ile front of their lodges, in which it is buried during tjL win' 188 Ul* THE MISSOUUI. ter : thin morning the Hontincl inforn,o, before daylight the wind shifted to the northwest, and blew very hard with cloudy weather and a keen cold air, which confined us much and prevented us from working- the night continued very cold, and, Tuesday 27, the weather cloudy, 'the wind con- tinuing from the northwest and the river crowded , with floating ice. Captain Lewis returned with ■ .vo chiefs Mahnotah, an Ahnahaway, and Min- nessurraree a Minnetaree, and a third warrior- they explained to us that the reason of their not having come to see us, was that the Mandans had told them that we meant to combine with the Sioux and cut them off in the course of the win- ter: a suspicion increased by the strength of the fort, and the circumstance of our interpreters hav- ing been removed there with their families - these reports we did not fail to disprove to their entire satisfe ion, and amused them by every attention, particularly by the dancing of the men which diverted them highly. All the Indians whom cap- tarn Lewis had visited were very well disposed and received him with great kindness, except a principal chief of one of the upper villages, named Mahpahpaparapassatoo or Horned Weasel who made use of the civilized indecorum of refusing to be seen, and when captain Lewis called he was told the chief was not at home. In the course of the day seven of the northwest company's traders 190 If- - ' UP THE MISSOURI. arrived from the AnHiniboin river, and one of their interpreters having undertaken to circulate among the Indians unfavourable rei)ort8, it become neces- eary to warn them of the conHequences if they did not desist from such proceedings. The river fell two inches to-day and the weather became verv cold. "^ Weclnesrlny i^S.-\hout eight o'clock last evening It began to snow and continued till daybreak after which it ceased till seven o'clock, but then resumed and continued during the day the weather being cold and the river full of floating ice: about eight o'clock Poscopsahe came down to visit us, with some warriors; we gave them pres- ents and entertained them with all that might amuse their curiosity, and at parting we told them that we had heard of the British trader Mr Laroche, having attempted to distribute medals and flags among them, but that those emblems could not be received from any other than the American nation without incurring the displeasure of their great father the president. They left us much pleased with their treatment. The river fell one inch to-day. Thursday 2i).-The wind is again from the northwest, the weather cold, and the snow which fell yesterday and last night is thirteen inches in depth. The river closed during the night at the village above, and fell two feet; but this afternoon It began to rise a little. Mr. Laroche, the princi- pal of the seven traders, came with one of his men to see us; we told him that we should not permit him to give medals and flags to the Indians; he declared that he had no such intention, and we then suffered him to make use of one of our inter- preters, on his stipulating not to touch any sub- ject but that of his traffic with them. An unfortu- 191 ■ !|ir, r.. ! -• t LKWIS AM) CLARK'S EXPFOmON nate nt occurred to sergeant Pryor, who in takin^^ (l()>vn the IhuiVh mant (liyh.catcd hin Hhoul- der, ii«,r waH it til! /ifter four trialH that we re- pliiced it. Frhhiy m-Al)oiit el^rht o'clock an Indian came to the oi)i)(>Hite hank of the river, calling out that he had Honiethiu^r important to coniniunicate, and on Hendin^: lor him, he told uh that live Mandann had been met about ei^^ht lea^nien to the south- west by a party of Sioux, who had killed one of them, vounded two, and taken nine horses ; that four of the VVattasoons were miHsing-, and that the Alandans expected an attack. \\e thought this an excellent oi)portunity to discountenance the injuri- ous reports against us, and to fix the wavering , confidence of the nation. Captain Clark therefore instantly crossed the river witli twenty-three men strongly armed, and circling the vown approached It from behind. His unexpected appearance sur- prised and alarmed the chiefs, who came out to meet him, and conducted him .o the village. He then told them that having lieard of the outrage just committed, he had come to assist his dutiful children; that if they would assemble their war- riors and those of the nation, he would lead them against the Sioux and avenge the blood of their countrymen. After some minutes conversation, Oheenaw the Chayenne arose: "We now see,"' said he, "that what you have told us is true, since as soon as our enemies threaten to attack us you come to protect us and are ready to chas- tise those who have spilt our blood. We did in- deed listen to your good talk, for when you told us that the other nations were inclined to peace with us, we went out carelessly in small parties, and some have been killed by the Sioux and Ricaras. But I knew that the Ricaras were liars 192 UP THE MISSOURI. and I told their chief who accompanied you, that his whole nation were liars and bad men; that we had several times made a peace with them which they were the first to break; that whenever we pleased we mi^^ht shoot them like buffalo, but that we had no wish to kill them; that we would not suffer them to kill us, nor steal our horses; and that although we agreed to make peace with them, because our two fathers desired it, yet we did not believe that they would be faithful long. Such, father, was my language to them in your presence, and you see that instead of listening to your good counsels they have spilt our blood. A few days ago two Ricaras came here and told us that two of their villages were making moccasins, that the Sioux were stirring them up against us, and that we ought to take care of our horses ; yet these very Ricaras we sent home as soon as the news reached us to-day, lest our people should kill them in the first moment of grief for their murdered relatives. Four of the Wattasoons whom we expected back in sixteen days have been absent twenty-four, and we fear have fallen. But lather the snow is now deep, the weather cola, and our horses cannot travel through the plains: the murderers have gone off: if you will conduct us in the spring, when the snow has disappeared, we will assemble all the surrounding warriors and follow you." Captain Clark replied that we were always willing and able to defend them; that he was sorry that the snow prevented their marching to meet the Sioux, since he wished to show them that the warriors of their great father would chastise the enemies of his obedient children who opened their ears to his advice; that if some Ricaras had joined the Sioux, they should remem- Vol. I.— 13 19a N r ' i Pill M lA'^VlS AND CLAKKS i:\|'i:i)ITlo\ lMTtlm^ (IHMV wm. ha.l ,.,,.,. i.M.n.py .w.tmn. ,UHl that tho.v Hl.onld not hr <»(Ii>,„|,,I nt Hi.. llk'nniH till tl.r.v H/nv wh,.Hi..|. tlu-H,. ill .Ijmim.hp,! mmm, nv,to ''"""''''"•"<'«'<1 ''v tl... wlH.I,. IrilM.; (I.MltJM. .^ioux lM.Hs,.HMr.lKn„( inll.MM.r,. „v,t (I... Himn.H. wI.om'i ihvy supplied will, n.ililMrv hKmvm. m.d Hoim-timrH l'' Nhnll supply tl.,'M, with ani.M. ni.d take th,.„, i undi.p our protection. After two hourn ('(.nverHation captain Clark IWt he vdlaKV. Tl.ocl,i,.fr(.pcat,>,llv thanknl hi,,, for tho fatherly prot,.eti„n he had «iv,.n th(.,„ <» bnervino- that the whole village l,a,I I,,.,.,, weepi„M- J»ll".«l.t and da.v lor the brave .vo„„«. nmn who liad been slain, but now the.y would wipe th(.ir eyv^ and W(.(.p „„ ,„o,-e as they saw that th(.ir lather .v >ul,l prct.vt t\n:n. lie thru .n.sse,! the river on the iee and return,.,! t)n the north si,le to the fort The day as well as th,^ evcM,in«. was cold, and the river rose to its former height Sntnn/.v, Dovombor /.-The wind was Tron. the northwest, and the whole party en«a«e,l in pick- et inji; the fort. Ab,>ut ten ,>c.|oek the halUbrother of the man who had been killed, eanie to inform 118 that six Sharhas or Chayenne Ind. ;. had arrived, brin^in^- a j.ipo <,f peace, and tlnu their nation was three days march behind them. Three J awnees had accoinpanie,] the Sharhas, and the Ma,jdans bein^^ afraid of the {Sharhas on account of their being at peace with the Sioux, wished to riJIi 111 M' Till-: MlSSOdlif. put hoM, thvui HiHl Mh. M,r,,. PnwiHrH („ iWnth' '»«'< ti"' Hii«'lH had lofhidd.-i, it HH it woiil.l Uv ron-' trary t„ o,„. uinhrH. WV ^uvc l.i,„ „ ,„,.„,.„(, of tolwuTo, ai.,1 although m.n. hin n„„M.xio„ with tiio HiiMcrcr. .ic waH moiv (.inl,iM,.ml a^aiiiHt tin. I'awiiccH than any <,(!„.,. Man.!,.,,, yet li*. H.r„„.,| l";i-li'(^tly satiHlh.l wit), onv |.mili..',.,.unH,.|H aiuj 'I'lvKT. TJic .MaiHlaMH, w,. olmc-vr, call all thr KuaraH l,y tlio iiaino of i'avvn,.('H; the i.am(. of KicaraH l„.i„^r tji/it l,.y wl.idi the nation diHtin- gniHhcH itHcir. In plied to every thin^r which t],ey do not emnprehend. Kach individual nelects for hiinneli' the particular object of Im devotion, which in termed his medicine, and i« either Ho„,e invimble being or more co,n,nc„ly Ho„,e animal, which thenceforward beconies hiH protector or \m inter- cesBor with the great Hi,irit; to propitiate whom every attention is lavinhed, and every personal connideration is sacrificed. "I was lately ownerof Heventeen horses," said a Mandan to i,s one dav "but 1 have offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor." Jle had in reality taken all hiH wealth, his horses, into the plain, and turn- ing them loose committed them to the care of his medicine and abandoned them forever The horses less religious took care of themselves, and the pious votary travelled Iiome on foot. Their belief in a fvture sta ,e is connected with this tra- dition ( f their origin: the whole nation rcKided in one large village under ground near a subterrane- 196 Rf ' ' UP THE MISaOTTRi. OU8 \ah^: a >?mpe.vine extnuiod itn roots down to their hHOitati(,n am] «;uvo them a vi^.w <.,• the .v:ht: Ho.ue of the most lulventnrouH eii.nbed up e.'rth'"'/-''; .r''' ''*''^^*''*"*^ ^^'^'' theHl^rhtofthe e;.rth, which they fb.nul and neh with every kln,I uffrultH: returninK with the KrapeH they lu.d Matheren her..|fand the rent of the naticm the light of the Hun. Those who were left on earth made a village below where we saw the nine vil- •ajres; and when the AfandauH die they expect to mnrn to the original seatB of their forefathers- the «.ood reaching, the ancient illa^^e by meanH of the lake ,vh,ch the bnrden of the sinn of the wicked will not enable them to cross UW/Msy/,,K ;X-'rhe morning, was cold and die- agreeable, the wind from the southeast accom- panied with snow: in the evening, there was snow attain and the wind shifte9 ir ' f' LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITlOxV eter at sunrise stood at twenty-one below the ice in the atmosphere being so thick as to render the weather hazy and give the appearance of two suns reflecting each other. The river continued at a stand. l»ocapsahe made us a visit to-day. Wednesdci^v, December Jl>-The wind is still from the north, the thermometer being at sunrise thirty-eight degrees below 0. One of the Ahnaiia- ways brought us down the half of an antelope killed near the fort; we had been informed that all these animals return to the Black mountains but there are great numbers of them about us at this season which we might easily kill, but are unwilling to venture out before our constitutions are hardened gradually to the climate. We meas- ured the river on the ice, and find it five hundred yards wide immediately opposite the fort Thursday 13.~-Lmt night was clear and a very heavy frost covered the old snow, the thermom- eter at sunrise being twenty degrees below 0, and followed by a fine day. The river falls. Friday 14.-The morning was fine, and the weather having moderated so far, that the mer- cury stood at 0, captain Lewis went down with a party to hunt; they proceeded about eighteen miles, but the buffalo having left the banks of the river they saw only two, which were so poor as not to be worth killing, and shot two deer. Not- withstanding the snow we were visited by a large number of the Mandans. Saturday i^.-Captain Lewis finding no game returned to the fort hunting on both sides of the nver, but with no success. The wind being from the north, the mercury at sunrise eight degrees below 0, and the snow of last night an inch and a half m depth. The Indian chiefs continue to Tisit US to-day with presents of meat. 200 i UP THE MISSOURI. Sunday 16.— The morning is clear and cold, the mercury at sunrise 22 below 0. A Mr. Haney with two other persons from the British establish- ment on the Assiniboin, arrived in six days with a letter from Mr. Charles Chabouilles, one of the company, who with much politeness offered to render us any service in his power. Monday J 7.— The weather to-day was colder than any we had yet experienced, the thermometer at sunrise being 4.")' below 0, and about eight o'clock it fell to 74 below the freezing point. From Mr. Haney, who is a very sensible intelli- gent man, we obtained nmch geographical infor- mation with regard to the country between the Missouri and Mississippi, and the various tribes of Siojiix who inhabit it. Tuesday IS.— The thermometer at sunrise was 32° below 0. The Indians had invited us yester- day to join their chase to-day, but the seven men whom we sent returned in consequence of the cold, which was so severe last night that we were obliged to have the sentinel relieved every half hour. The noi-thwest traders however left us on their return home. Wednesday 10.— The weather moderated, and the river rose a little, so that we were enabled to continue the picketing of the fort. Notwithstand- ing the extreme cold, we observe the Indians at the village engaged out in the open air at a game whjh resembled billiards more than any thing we had seen, and which we inclined to suspect may have been acquired by ancient intercourse with the French of Canada. From the first to the second chief's lodge, a distance of about fifty yards, was covered with timber smoothed and joined so as to be as level as the floor of one of our houses, with a battery at the end to stop the rings: these 201 ■ii If ^ ' LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXFM<:i)lTI()N ringH were of clay-stone and flat like the chequers for (IraltH, and the sticks were about four feet onff, with two short pieces at one end in the form of a mace, so fixed that the whole will «lide alon^. the board. Two men fix themselves at one end, each provided with a stick, and one of them with arin^; they then run alom? the hoard, and about half way slide the sticks after the ring. TIwrs wile pnmit ve name is Darcota, but who are called h.oux by the French, Sues by the English Their ongiual seats were on the Mississippi, but thev Lave gradually sprea.I then.selves abroad and bt come subdivided into numerous tribes. Of these what may be considered as the Darcotas are t to Mmdawarcarton, or Miuowakanton, known o the French by the name of the (Jens du 11" or sides of the Mississippi near the falls of St Anthony, and the probable number of their war' i-iors about three hundred. Above them, on tlie nver S . Peter's, is the Wahpatone, a sma ler band of nearly two hundred men; and still further up the same river below Yellowwood river are the VVahpatootas or Gens de Feuilles, an inferior band of not more than one hundred men; while the sources of the St. Peter's are occupied by the 204 TIP THE MISSOURI. Sieatoones, a band consisting of about two hun- dred warriors. These bands rarely if ever approach the Missouri, which is occupied by their kinsmen the Yanktous and the Tetons. The Yanktons are of two tribes, those of the plains, or rather of the north, a wan- dering race of about five hundred men, who roam over the plains at the heads of the Jacques, the Sioux, and the lied river; and those of the south, who possess the country between the Jacques and Sioux rivers and the Desmoine. Rut the bands of Sioux most known on the Missouri are the Tetons. The first who are met on ascending the Missouri is the tribe called by the French the Tetons of the Boise Hrule or liurntwood, who reside on both sides of the Missouri, about White and Teton rivers, and number two hundred warriors. Above them on the Missouri are the Teton Okandandas, a band of one hundred and fifty men living below the Chayenne river, between which and the Wetar- hoo river is a third band, called Teton Minna- kenozzo, of nearly two hundred and fifty men: and below the Warreconne is the fourth and last tribe of Tetons of about three hundred men, and called Teton Saone. Northward of these, between the Assiniboin and the Missouri, are two bands of Assiniboins, one on Mouse river of about two hun- dred men, and called Assiniboin Menatopa; the other, residing on both sides of White river, called by the French (lens de Feuilles, and amounting to two hundred and fifty men. Beyond these a band of Assiniboins of four hundred and fifty men, and called the Big Devils, Avander on the heads of Milk, Porcupine, and Alartha's rivers; while still farther to the north are seen two bands of the same nation, one of five hundred and the other of two hundred, roving on theSaskaskawan. Those 205 LEWIS AND OLAIiK'S EXT»KI)ITrON A88iniboinH are reco^rnized by a Himilarity of laii- gmi^enml by tradition an de8cennu.(I by two Hhot from the Hwivel and a round of Hnmll nrniH. Tho woather waH cloudy but moderate; the n.ereury which atHunriHewaa at IH , ,n the courne of the day roHe to U above 0: tovvanlH evenia;. it be^^an tu rain, and at ni.rht ^ve uu snow, the teuiiXM-ature for which iH about 0. In tlie n.ornin^r we perniitted Hixtevn men with the,r nuiHic to «:o „,, to the first vilia^r,, ,vhei3 they deli^.h ted the whole tribe with their dancen particularly with the movementn of one of the Henchmen who danced on his head. In return tliey preHented the dancern with neveral buttalo robcH and (juantitieH of corn. We were denirouH of eliowin^. thiH attention to the village, Im-auHethey had received an imprcHHion that we had been wantin^MU re^mrd for them, and Ix^-auHe they had in conHcjuence circulated inviduouH comparinonH H'tween uh and the northern traderw: all these however they declared to captain Clark, who visited them in the course of the morning, were made in jest. Ah captain Clark wan about leav- 111^^ the village, two of their chieft returned from a mission to the (Jrosventres or wandering Minne- tarees. These people were encamped about ten miles above, and while there one of the Ahnaha- way« nad stolen a Minnetareo girl : the whole na- tion immediately espoused the quarrel, and one iHindred and fifty of their warriors were marching down to revenge the insult on the Ahnahaways Ihe chief of that nation took the girl from the ravisher, and givirg her to the Mandans requested their intercession. The messengers went out to meet the warriors, and delivered the youngdamsel into the hands of her countrymen, smoked the pipe of peace with them, and were fortunate enough to avert their indignation and induce them to return. In the evening some of the men VV THE MISSOMUI. came to the fort iind the reHt Hlept in the village. I»ocapHahe alno viHite"»i me irUFf, i, / -'Uoetus seawtute, ru.t,., jaccatUB e«t. ^Mai-itus iutorduu, stmJ J"-ta «.uadit u,„ltu„. houore, et ejus di^.,^ «c eonservuta. l„us uostnnu Bodal , „ ^^Z alacnor et poteutior juveutute, hac noctolu . orem quartuor maritorun, t-urtodivit "'-"""°''«m *•«,„/,,.,• «.-A clear cold uK.rning with hteh w.ad : we caught in a tra„ a large ,n,y wolf, aud 21U UP Tin: Missoniu. last uijfht obtuiiu'd in the hhihc way a fox who held for Home time inU'HU' infomiH uh that the iifrmt of the Ilndson Hay company at that place, had been ♦'Udeavourin^^ to make unlavourable imprewsionH \vith re«-ard to uh on the mind of the ^.-reat chief, ami that the N. W. company intend bnildin^ a lort tliere. q^he ^n-eat chief had in conweipience spoken Kli«-htly of the Americans. l)nt Haid that if we Avonld ^^ive him our ^^reat fla^^ lie would come and see us. Moiuhiy U.-Thc MandauH continue to pass down the river on their hunting- i)arty, and were joined by six of our men. One of those sent on 'J^hursday returned, with information that one of his companions had Iuh feet so badly frostbitten that he could not walk honu\ in their excursion they had killed a buffalo, a wolf, two porcupines and a white hare, 'flie weather was more moder- ate to-d .y, the mercury bein^^ at 1(5' degrees be- low 0, and the wind from the S. E. we had however some snow, after which it remained cloudy. Tiwsdny i.T.-'JMie morninj,^ is much warmer tlian yesterday, and the huow begins to melt, thoug-h the wind after being- for Home time fronl the S. E. suddenly shifted to N. W. J{etween twelve and three o'clock A. A[. there was a total eclipse of the moon, from which we obtained a part of the observation necessary for ascertaining the longitude. We were visited by four of the most distin- guished men of the Minnetarees, to whom we showed marked attentions, as we knew that they had been taught to entertain strtmg prejudices against us; these we succeeded so well in remov- ing, that when in the morning, Wednesduy Id, about thirty Mandans, among whom six were chiefs came to see us, the Minne- 214 * * UP THE MISSOlTItr. tarooH r(>i)ronch('(l Hkmii with their falHchoodH, (1«. clarin^^ that they were bad iiion and oii^rht to hido thcMiiHclvcH. They had told the MinnctareoH that we would kill them if they eaiue to the fort, yet ou the contrary they had Hpent a ni^ht tliere and been treated with kindncHH by the whiteH, wlio had smoked Avith them and danced for their amuKement. Ka«()hand vinited uh and brouK-htUH a little corn, and Hoon afterwardH one of the firHt war chiefH of the MinnetJireew came accompanied by hiH Hcpiaw, a handKome woman, whom he waH deHirouH w(! nhould use during- the night. He favoured uh with a more accei)tabl(^ prewent, a draft of the iMiwHouri in liiH manner, and informed UH of hiH intention to go to war in the spring agaiuHt the Snake Indiann; we advined him to re- flect HeriouHly before lie committed the peace of hiH nation to the luuardn of war; to look back on the numerous nationn whom war han destroyed, that if he wished his nation to be hai>py he nhould cultivate i>eace and intercourse with all his neigh- bourn, by which meann they would procure more horHes, increase in nund)erH, and that if he went to war he Avould displease bin great father the presi- dent, and forfeit his protection. We added that we had spoken tliuH to all the tribes whom we had met, that they had all opened their ears, and that the president would compel those who did not voluntarily listen to his advice. Although a young man of only twenty-six years of age, this discourse seemed to strike him. Jle observed that if it would be disi)leasing to uh he would not go to war, since he had horeeH enough, and that he would advise all the nation to remain at home, until w(i had seen the Snake Indians, and discov- ered whether their intentions were pficific. The party who went down with the horses for the 215 !! ll^li filf .-t ,, ^1' i f 1 , ■ 1 lit I ' MflVLS AND CLARKS lOXI'UDrTION Klad to find \m complaint ...,t „,.ri.,„„. //»/,».•,,■ 7r.-TI,,. ,l,,y w«» very windy from the north; tl.o „,„„,i„^. Hear and Jol.l, « ,7 /«/,.,,r /,S.-Tl,e woather i„ fl„e an.I moderate. AI.«»rH. LaroeLe and M'K.n.ie, two of tl N V^' conumnyH tradern, viHit...! „„ ,vitl, bo. of,]!; Jlmnetnm.^. J„ the afternoon two of on r„ tern returncH, having ki,lo,I ,o„r wolv.. and a ,17 *rad :;'tt' '■'^■^"?"""- •'■'-""y «"^. Tho Z" Cti,;:*!,!!:: """"^^ *""-*^ ■""™ '-'■'"- to the , "W,v m_Tho day fair and ..old. A number 1 tr t'o'tr ;"" ""■•■' *" ^•^"'""■''- <"" «* JW.,^ .,._The weather wan fine and moder- ate. J he IjnnterB all returned, having kilk^ dur s::y:zrat:e"'''^"^--^™'— -;^9!;^;^tz:::^t::?:ri- out of the ice, but at the distance ot'ei, iX leet thick, so that we were ohlig-ed to desist n.Ines,., o^wrhe cold weather retun ed the mercury having sunk 2 below and f hi fell four inches deep. ' *^'^ ^"^^ Thurs^I^iy i^^.-The day was colder than anv w« lo^v U. ihe hunters whom we sent out returned rdT^^LT^ir^-^---'-""^^ Friday 25.-The thermometer was at 25° below 21« Ir 0, the wind from iN. VV. and the dny fair, ho that the ni(«n were (Mni)l()yed in prcpariii^r coal, and cutting; the boatn out of the ice. A Itand of Ah- HiniboiuM hea(h'd by tlieir eiiief, ealled by the French, Son of the Litth^ CuH, have arrived at the vilhijj^es. S.'Unnhty IV;.— A fine warm day: a niunber of Indians dine with uh: and one of our men in at- t/icked with a violent i)leunHy. Sunday IV.— Another warm and pleaHant day: we a^ain attempted to ^et the boat out of the ice. 'fhe man who huH the pleuriwy wan blooded and Hweated, and we were forced to tak(^ off the toes of the younjj; Indian who wuh frowtbitteu some time since. Our interpreter returned from the villa^i's, beinjj^ing- with him three of Mr. I.a- roche'H liorneH which he had Hent in order to keep them out of the way of the AHHiniboiuH, who are very much dinpoHcd to steal, and who have just returned to their camp. Mondny 2S.—'V\w wenther to-day is clear and cold: we are ()blij>-ed to abandon the i)Ian of cut- ting the boat through the ice, and therefore made another attempt the next day, Tuesday 2{), by luNitin^r a quantity of stones so as to warm the water in the boat, and thaw the surrounding-^ ice: but in this too we were disap- pointed, as all the stones on bein;;- put into the fire cracked into pieces: the weather warm and pleasant: the man with the pleurisy is recovering-. Wedmsdny .W.—T\w morninj; was fair, but af- terwards becaine cloudy. Mr. i.aroche the trader from the northwest company paid us a visit, in hopes of bein^^ able to accompany us on our jour- ney westward, but this proposal we thought it best to decline. Thursday 81.— it snowed last night, and the 217 I ^l< I ' ' ? ■ ( t mm m LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION morning is cold and dieagreeable, with a high wind from the northwest: we sent five hunters TuLT "" ^"*'" """ ^^ *"'^" "^*^ *^' A'nV//,.r, /V7>n;,.rr /.-A cold windy day our hunters returned having killed only one d.er nil of tl e Mmnetaree war chiefs, a young n,an named Maubuksheahokeah or Seeing Snake, came to see IB ami procure a war hatchet: he also requested that we won d suffer him to go to war against the Sioux and Ricaras who had killed a Mandan Home time ago: this we refused for reasons which we explamed to him. He acknowledged that we eo^sel ' "' '"""'' *^ ^^^^ ^"« ^'^- '^ «- kdled. Mr. Laroche who has been very anxious to ,o with us left the fort to-day, and'^on of tl e squaws of the Minnetaree interpreter is taken iH .^7/ !^' "'^''''^''' '' ^^'-^"^ i'^'^'^^t-- dis- appointed m all our efforts to get the boats free we occupied ourselves in making iron spikes so a^ to prize them up by means of long poles Momlay 4.-The morning fair and cold, the mercuij at sunrise being Ls below 0, and the wliici ^"/ T northwest. The stock of meat Av Inch we had procured in November and Decem- ber be,ng now nearly exhausted, it became neces- sary to renew our supply; captain Clark there- tore took eighteen men, and with two sleighs and three horses descended the river for the purpose of liunting, as the buffixlo has disappeared from our neighbourhood, and the Indians are themselves sutferingfor want of meat. Two deer were killed to-day but they were very lean. 7W/.7.F o,-\ pleasant fair morning with the wind from northwest: a number of the Indians 218 UP THE MISSOURI. come with corn for the blacksmith, who being now provided witli coal haw become one of our greatcHt reaourceH for procuring grain. 'I'hey 8eem particularly attached to a battle axe, of a very inconvenient figure: it is made wholly of iron, the blade extremely thin, and from seven to nine inches long; it is sharp at the point and ftve or six inches on each side, whence they converge to- wards the eye, which is circular and about an inch in diameter, the blade itself being not more than an inch wide, the handle is straight, and twelve or fifteen inches long; the whole weighing about a pound. By way of ornament, the blade is perforated with several circular holes. The length of the blade compared with the shortness of the handle render it a weapon of very little strength, particularly as it is always used on horseback: there is still however another form which is even w^orse, the same sort of handle be- ing fixed to a blade resembling an espontoon. Wednesday, Fehrwuj 6'.— The morning was fair and pleasant, the wind N. W. A number of In- dian chiefs visited us and withdrew after we had smoked with them contrary to their custom, for after being once introduced into our apartment they are fond of lounging about during the re- mainder of the day. One of the men killed three antelo[)e8. Our blacksmith has his time com- pletely occupied, so great is the demand for uten- sils of different kinds. The Indians are particu- larly fond of sheet iron, out of which they form points for arrows and instruments for scraping hides, and when the blacksmith cut up an old cambouse of that metal, we obtained for every piece of four inches square seven or eight gallons of corn from the Indians, who were deUghted at the exchange. 219 1 . ill LEVV7H AND OLAUK'S EXPRDITrO.V wa™r'':ci!:'''' "■""""« »- <■«- -..i .....ch bdug at H at™ T.'" r,' ^"^ t'-""-<-t^r « F I . , • ""'' ""' "'n'l from the but ur ;;::*;:'■";" ™"""'- *« ^^^ - been accu ton t. \ , Z 7';,"'''''"'" ^'""'"" """ ni«ht, we order;:, u^k , to,. •:': ',":r' *"" Indian «ho„ld re.nam in le f" t alMH 1T "" any person adndtte,! durim" //,.,, ''"*■ ""'' gate is closed, that is ^^ 1 T""" "''."" *"" J^Wrfii- V 1 <■ • ■ ""inset to sunrise. „. , -*,: — -^ fair ,,|,.„e,i„t ,„o„,i„ j,. ^ .r^anitcxt'-r'^^^^^^^^ shield which hP J.n.i/ ''''"^' ^"^'^'><'d a Which th^tauir, :d°;r „::s''r r"^'^- '-"' . Pleting. This chief possesr„!^„^„""'^'°""«™- Hgence, and int^dy^Z Z^l^^ro/T country, and he n.ight be renderVitld; servi 1' wantormeata\dtar,Zr^^^^^^^^ any for several days To t Z i ! *'''*'^ often reduced bv their / '*'*'' *'"'y »™ euucea Dy their own nnnrovidence or l.„ their unhniipv situation ti, • . '""^'"^e. or by food i« h„ff-i ^'>«r principal article of and confine them to their vn^es tL ^^'"' fear too prevents ti^eir ^c 'n^ Itfn{ t '"^ parties to relieve their otf , ""* '" ''"^" the buff.lo i m^^^L^ «« *h^* ties, and ..s^i:^:;::::^ ^" ^^^^-^ ^"^-^- ^^X^.con,.n.^ ^unclaj lO.-A. shght snow fell in the course of If lit UP THE MISSOUlil. the night, the morning waH cloudy, and the north- weHt wind blew ho high that although the ther- mometer waH \H above 0, the day wan cooler than yesterday, when it was only 10 above the same i)oint. Mr. M'Kenzie leit us, and Chaboneau returned with infornuition that our horses loaded with meat were below, but could not cross tlie ice not being shod. Mowhiy 1 7.— We sent down a i)arty with sleds, to relieve the horses from their loads ; the weather fair and cold, with a N. W. wind. About five o'clock one of the wives of (Jhaboneau was de- livered of a boy ; this being her hrst child she was suffering considerable, when Mr. Jessaume told captain Lewis that he had frequently adminis- tered to persons in her situation, a small dose of the rattle of the rattlesnake which had never failed to hasten the delivery. Having some of the rattle, captain Lewis gave it to Mr. Jessaume who crumbled two of the rings of it between his fingers, and mixing it with a small quantity of water gave it to her. What effect it may really have had it might be difficult to determine, but captain Lewis was informed that she had not taken it more than ten minutes before the deliverv took place. Tuesihiy 12.— The morning is fair though cold, the mercury being 14' below 0, the wind from the S. E. About four o'clock the horses were brought in much fatigued; on giving them meal bran moistened with water they would not eat it, but preferred the bark of the cotton wood, which as is already observed forms their principal food (' r*..ig the winter. The horses of the Mandaus ai^ so often stolen by the t>ioux, Kicaras, and Assini- boins, that the invariable rule now is to put the horses every night in the same lodge with the 221 • ^ ' I n 1 '- ■I \ I: LEW18 AND CLAKK'« EXI'EDITION family. Jn the Humiuer they ranil)le in the plainw m the viciinty of the camp, and feed on the i?ra88 bu- durin^r cold weather the Hquavt% cut down the Cottonwood treeH m they are wanted, and the horses fetnl on the bou^hH and bark of the tender braneheH. wliieli are also brou^^ht into the lodges tit mght and phieed near the.n. Tn-Hc animals are very severely treated; for whole days they are pursuing' the buffalo, or burdened with the fruits of the chase, durin^r wl,ieh they scarcely ever taste lood, and at nl^ht return to a scanty allowance o wood; yet the spirit of this valuable animal sustains him throu^-h all these difficulties, and c is rarely deficient either in flesh or vigour. Weduesfhiy VJ.-Thii morning was cloudy, the thermometer at 2 below 0, the wind from the southeast. Captain Clark returned last evenin- with all his hunting party: during their excursion they had killed forty deer, three buffalo, and six- teen elk; but most of the game was too lean for use, and the wolves, who regard whatever lies out at night as their own, liad appropriated a large part of it: when he left the fort on the 4th in- stant, he descended on the ice twenty-two miles to x\ew Mandan island, near some of their old vil- lages, and encamped, having killed nothing, and therefore Avithout food for the night. Early on the T.th, the hunters went out and killed two buffalo and a deer, but the last only could be used, the others being too le-iii. After breakfast they proceeded down to an Indian lodge and hunted during the day: the next morning 0th, they encamped forty-four miles from the fort on a sand point near the mouth of a creek on the southwest side, which they call Hunting creek and during this and the following day hunted through all the adjoining plains, with much suc- 222 ti' UP THE MLS801J111. cesH, havin;]j killed a nunibor of deer and elk. On the Hth, the bcHt of the inea waw went with the horseH to the fort, and Huch partH of the remainder a8 were flt 'or une were brouj^ht to a point of the river three niileM below, and after the bouea were taken out, wecured in [)enH built of Io^^h, go as to keep off t!ie wolveH, ravenn and nia^^pieH, who are very iunierouH and couHtjuitly diwappoint the hunter .A' hiw prey; they then went to the low ^roundH near the ('luHHhetaw river where they en- camped, but Haw nothing except some woIvch on the hills, and a number of buffalo too poor to be worth hunting. The next morning t)th, an there was no j^anie and it would have been incon- venient to Hend it back sixty miles to the fort, they returned up the river, and for three days hunted alonj^ the banks and plains, and reached the fort in the evening of the twelfth much fatigued, having walked thirty miles that day on the ice and through the snow in many places knee deej), the moccasins too being nearly worn out: the only game which they saw besides what is mentioned, was some grouse on the sandbars in the, river. TIinr8(hiy 14.— hast night the snow fell three inches deep ; the day was, however, fine. Four men were despatched with sleds and three horses to bring up the meat which had been collected by the hunters. They returned however, with intelli- gence that about twenty-one miles below the fort a party of upwards of one hundred men, whom they supposed to be 8ioux, rushed on them, cut the traces of the sleds, and carried off two of the horses, the third being given up by intercession of an Indian who seemed to possess some authority over them ; they also took away two of the men's knives, and a tomahawk, which last however they 223 $ *!■; lii LKWIS AND CLAUK'8 KXI'KDJTlGx^ retu.iuHl. nv H,.nt up to the Maiuln.iH to inform thorn of ,t, and f. know whether any c,f them would join a party which intc-nded to purnue the robLei-H in the u.orninK. About twelve oeh)ck two of their ehiefH came //y.— The day was delijj^htfully fine; the mercury beinjj;- at HunriHe 2 and in the course of the day 22 above 0, the wind Houth- erly. Kagohami came down to wee uh early: his viUage is afflicted by the death of one of their eldest men, who from his account to us must have Been one hundred and twenty winters. Just as he was dyinf^, he requested his grandchildren to dress him .n his best robe when he was dead, and then carry him on a hill and seat him on a stone, with his face down the river towards their old villages, that he might go straight to his brother who had passed before him to the ancient village und^^r ground. We have seen a number of Mandans wh«) have lived to a great age; chiefly however the men, whose robust exercises fortify the lody, while the laborious occupations of the women shorten Lheir existence. Thursdny 21.—\ut.e«, who alternately take a whiff then^eWeB ana then ,„,.»e,>t the pipe to the atone; after IL they ret„-e to an adjoining, wood for the nil h,n„« wineh it „,ay he safely pre«„,ned that t ,' the enil,as„y do not «U,.p,. and in the n.ornin,. they rea,l the ,h.„tinie„ „f the nation in the w ,to are at no 1ok» to ,I,^i,,|,er. The .Minnet«ree» liave a »one of a ninular kind, which ha„ tie same »« and the «an,e influence over the LZr "aptam Lewis returned from his excurwon i„ Pu-uit of the Indians. On reaching e pa where the Siou.x had stolen our horses, tl vrt.eh were recognize,! to l,e those of the Sioux The party then followed the Indian tracks tili they reached two old lo,l«es where they slept and the ,«..xt niornin,. pursued the course of tLnver tan, Uark passe,! the night some time a.ro and wh.ch the .Sioux had now set on Are. leavi'„ra ttl corn near the place in order to induce a be net tliat tliey were flipm-ia x<^^^ xi • CI. ^ , '^ *>tie jucaitis. l^roin this no nt the into thfr" ""■* *"■' ■•'™' "'"-"l'*'-^' »"" erols^ ch^eo ";,"•* ""'■'*'"'"'' *'■"* ♦"^■■« ^^ no down to tl'"^"; ""■'■"' •"•""''' '-»™ ^•'"t down to the i)en where captain Clark had left Home „.eat which he found untouched ty e Indians, and then h„nte; |.;X1>KI)ITI()N 7V,„;.v,/,.,,. -,v.-TI„. dny i„ ,.|«,ra„d pleasant Sixteen ,„e„ were „..„t „„t t„ exa,„i„e the c„„, t J <■> trees suitable ,„,. ,,oa,„, a„,I were suecess I ^ hndiuK then,. Two of the .N. W. eo.npany trade " .uru.,I w,th letters; they had likewise a ot w „.h ,s „se,I for the enr.. of persons hitte,™; ."■:'' ;.'"«''; ""■■"<•■'<. «n,l ot • veno„,o„„ animals .t IS found on hiKh „ro„n,ls and the «ides of hills' and the nK„le of „„in« it is to scarify the won ' -i m'\y to it an in,.h or more of the chew dn- pounded root whieh is to he renewe,! twic' day the patient ninst not however ehew or swallow any of the root, as an i„war,l applica t..... .n,«ht be rather injnrions than henefldil Mr. (.ravehnes with two I'renelnnen and two .uhans armed Iron, the Uieara nation, with let tersfron, .Mr. .Vnthony Tabean. This last .en«e- man ,„forn,s ns that the Hicaras e.xpress thdr determ,natn,n to follow o„r adviee, and to ren.a'n at peace with the Alan.ians a„d .Minneta ree" whon. they are desirous of visiting; tl ev alio wtsh to know whether these natio,;' would pe.- nit the luearas to settle near them, and form a U-asue aKainst their eomnion enemies the Sioux On mentioning this to the .Maiidans they agreed to It, observing that they always desir«l to tulti^ vate friendship with the Kiearas, and that the Ahnaiaways and .Min,.etarc-e.s have the same trieiidly vie^As. Mr. (IravelineH ntates th-.t the band of Tetonn whom we h.ul seen wan well disposed to us, ow- ing to the influence of their chief the lilack liuf- talo; but that the three upper bands of Tetons with the Sisatoons, and the Yanktons of the north, mean soon to attack the Indians in this quarter, with a resolution to put to death every white man they encounter. Moreover, that Mr 228 TJP THE MLSSOURI. Cameron of 8t. Peter's ha« armed the Rioux against the Chippeways, who have lately put to death three of his men. The men ^.ho had stolen our horses we found to be all .Sioux, who after committing the outrage went to the Kicara vil- iZ'; Jn''" *^'^ '""'"^ '^^* ^^'y ^^d ^^^''^itated about killing our men who were with the horses, but that in future they would put to death any of us they could, as we were bad medicines and de- served to be killed. The Kicaras were displeased at their conduct and refused to give them any hn Jr. T' "''^''^ '' ^''''''^ ^^^ ^^reatest act of Hostility short of actual violence whole party is engaged, some in making ropes and penogues, others in burning coal, and making battle-axes to sell for corn. Sntunhiy 2.- Mr. Laroche one of the N W company's traders has just arrived with merchant dise from the I'.rltish establishments on the Assini- t)om ,he day is fi„e, and the river begins to break up in some places, the mercury being be- tne N L. Ue were visited by several Indians. SunrJ^y /y._The weather pleasant, the wind f om the E. with clouds; in the afternoon the clouds disappeared and the wind came from the fh* I' . ""'" """^ ^" employed in preparing theboats; we are visited by Poscapsahe and sev eral other Indians with corn. A flock of ducks passed up the river to-day. Momlny4.-X cloudy morning with X. W. wind, the latter part of the day clear. We had again meat Th'""". ^'^^ '"'*^ ^ «°^^» ^'^'^^^ ^r 2tL /,^\;^«7^boins, who a few days since visited the Mandans, returned, and attempted to take horses from the Minnetarees, who fired on 229 f i I LEWIS AND CLAKK'S EXPEDITION tbem; a circumstance which may occasion some disturbance between the two nations. lue^rhy .T.-Abont four o'clock in the morning there was a slight fall of snow, but the day be came clear and pleasant with the mercury 40" above 0. We sent down an Indian and a F^ch- TaTeat ""="'" "'"'^^ "'*" "^ '«"- *" «'• If«//m9rf«j. ff.-Thc day was cloudy and smokv m consequence of the burning of the plains by the Minnetarees; they have set all the neighbouring country on lire in order to obtain an earfy crop "^ grass .-h-ch may answer for the consum'ption of bnffl T' '"'^ "''•* "" «" i^d-cement for the buffalo and other game to visit it. The horses stolen two days ago by the Assiniboins have been of thTlow 't '"""•'*"""• Ohhaw second chie? of the lower M.nnetaree village came to see us. Ihe river rose a little and overran the ice so as to render the crossing diiBcult JV.«m7..,,,-, m,-The day was somewhatcloudy and co^aer than usual; the wind from the north! east Shotawhorora visited us with a sick child, to « hom some medicine was administered. There d^ed b "^ ?'"" '"'"'"^ ^^"^ "'•°"«'>t corn and dried buffalo meat in exchange for blacksmith's Frfdnj s._The day cold and fair with a high Zotj"^- "" ""^ ^'"''^ "^ twolndtfns who gave us an account of the country and peo- Ple^near the Rocky mountains where'ihey had wmd from the north. The grand chief of the BZTr ;\° " ^'^"^•' "^ *"" French t for fhe% T,^" '"'"'■« •'"* °"^ "y^' ««-»" down for the first time to the fort. He was received 230 UP THE MISSOURI. with much attention, two guns were fired in hon- our of his arrival, the curiosities were exhibited to him, and as he said that he had not received the presents which we had sent to Mm on his arrival, we aj^ain jrave him a flag, a medal, shirt, armbraces and the usual presents on such occa- sions, with all which he was much pleased. Jn the course of the conversation, the chief observed that some foolish young men of his nation had told him there was a person among us who was '?.uite black, and he wished to know if it could be •'0. We assured him that it was true, and sent tO: York: the Uorgne was very much surprised at s appearance, examined him closely, and spit on his finger and rubbed the skin in order to wash off the paint ; nor was it until the negro uncov- ered his head, and showed his short hair, that the Borgne could be persuaded that he was not a painted white man. Sumhiy 10.— A cold windy day. Tetuckopin- reha, chief of the Ahnahaways, and the Minne- taree chief Ompschara, passed the day with us, and the former remained during the night. We had occasion to see an instance of the summary justice of the Indians: a young Minnetaree had carried off the daughter of Cagonom^okshe, the Raven Man, second chief of the upper village of the Mandans ; the father went to the village and found his daughter, whom he brought home, and took with him a horse belonging to the offender: this reprisal satisfied the vengeance of the father and of the nation, as the young man would not dare to reclaim his horse, which from that time became the property of the injured party. The stealing of young women is one of the most com- mon offences against the police of the village, and the punishment of it always measured by the 231 il! if m ' LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION power or the passions of the kindred of the female A voluntary elopement is of course more rigor- ously cliastised. One of the wives of the Porgne deserted h.m in favour of a man who had heen her iZ. Tr '^'". "'^'""^^ ' ^"^^ ^^'^'" ^^ter some time left her, and she was <,hliMTd to return to her father H house. As soon as he heard it the PorLme walked there and found her sitting near the fire- with the father; when they were joined by the had followed in hopes of appeasing him. He con- tinued to smoke quietly with them, till rising to return, he took his wife by the hair, led her as far as the door, and with a single stroke of his toma- hawk put her to death before her father's eyes- then turning fiercely upon the spectators, he said that if any of her relations wished to avenge her they might always find him at his lodge; but the fate of the woman had not sufficient interest to excite the vengeance of the family. The caprice or the generosity of the same chief gave a very dif- ferent result to a similar incident which occurred some time afterwards. Another of his wives eloped with a young man, who not being able to support her as she wished they both returned to the village, and she presented herself before the husband, supplicating his pardon for her conduct - the Borgne sent for the lover: at the moment when the youth expected that he would be put to death, the chief mildly asked them if they still preserved their affection for each other; and on their declaring that want, and not a change of affection had induced them to return, he gave up his wife to her lover, with the liberal present of three horses, and restored them both to his favour. 232 I i . i I . I VV rUK MlSSOUkl. Afornhy 7 /.-The weather was cloudy in the morning, and a little nnow fell, the wind then shifted from Routheast to northwest and the day became fair. It nnowed ajL-ain in the evening, but the next day, Tuf^^lny 1L>, was fair with the wind from the northwest. W^ln.senchman wlio has resided a long time among the Jlicaras and Mandans, explained to us the mode in which they make their large bead^ an art which they are said to have derived t • some prisoners of the hnake Indian nation, and the knowledge of which 18 a secret even now confined to a few among the Mandans and Jiicaras: the process is as follows: glass of different colours is first pounded fine and washed, till each kind, which is ^ept separate, ceases to stain the water thrown over It: some well seasoned clay, mixed with a sufficient quantity of sand to prevent its becoming very hard when exposed to heat, and reduced by water to the consistency of dough, is then rolled on the palm of the hand, till it becomes of the 2m WH fWli Is 'V . »-■■ liJ ; I ^ tr U! Li:\VIS AND CLARK'S EXf EDITION thicknesH wanted for the hole in the bead: these Ht.ck8 of chiy are placed upriu-ht. eadi on a Jittie pedestal or ball of the name nrnt^M-ial about an ounce m wei^^ht, and diHtributed over a nniall earthen platter, which in laid on the lire for a few ininuteH, when they are taken off to cool • Mith a httle paddle or nhovel thrtn^ or fo.r inchen loni? and Hharpened at the end of the handle, the wet pounded gla88 is placed in the pain, of the hand- the beadH are made of an ol,lon«- forni wrapped in a ejhndrical form round the Htick of clay which i« laid croH8wiHe over it, and ^.ently rolled back- wards and forward, till it becomes perfectly Bmooth ir it be dcHired to introduce any other colour, the surface of the bead is perforated Wth the pointed end of the paddle and the cavity filied with pounded ^.lass of that colour: the sticks ^Mth the string of bead, are then replaced on their pedestals .,id the platter deposited on burning coals or hot embers: over the platter an earthen pot containing about three gallons, with a mouth large enough to cover the platter, is reversed, be- ing completely closed except a small aperture at the top, through wliicli are watched the bead • a quantity of old dried wood formed into a sort'of dough or paste is placed round the pot so as almost to cover it, and afterwards set on fire- the manufacturer then looks through the small hole in the pot, till he sees the beads assume a deep red colour, to which succeeds a paler or whitish red, or they become pointed at the upper ex- tremity; on which the fire is removed and the pot suffered to cool gradually: at length it is removed, the beads taken out, the clay in the hollow of them picjced out with an awl or needle, and it is then fit for use. The beads thus formed are in great demand among the Indians, and used as 234 If I TIP THE MrsSOITRf. pondants to thdr I'ar.s and hair, and are some- times worn round the neck. Siindny 17. ~\ windy but clear and pleasant day, the river T\m\\r a little and oi)en in several places. Our Minnetaree interpreter Chaboneau, whom we intended taking Avith us to the Pacific,' had some days a^^o been worked upon by the HritiHh traders, and api)eared unwilling to accom- pany US, except on certain terms : such as his not being subject to our orders, and do duty, or to return whenever he chose. As we saw clearly the source of his hesitation, and knew that it was in- tended as an obstacle to our views, we told him that the terms were inadmissible, and that we could dispense with his services: he had accord- ingly left us Avith some displeasure. Since then he had made an advance towards joining us, which we showed no anxiety to meet; but this morning he sent an apology for his improper conduct, and agreed to go with us and perform the same duties as the rest of the corps; we therefore took him again into our service. Monday i.V.— The weather was i Id and cloudy, the wind from the north. We were engaged in packing up the goods into eight divisions, so as to preserve a portion of each in case of accident. We hear that the Sioux have latel; attacked a party of Assiniboins and Knistenaux, near the Assiniboin river, and killed fifty of them. Tuesday if>.— Some snow fell last night, and this morning was cold, windy, and cloudy. Sha- haka and Kagohami came down to see us, as did another Indian with a sick child, to whom we gave some medicine. There appears to be an ap- proaching war, as two parties have already gone from the Minnetarees, and a third is preparing. Wednesday 1?6».— The morning was cold and 235 hmm AM) ciAUK'A r':xf>f:i)[Ti()N cloudy, the wind In^h fvom th. uurth l.„t the afternoon w„s pleasant. The enno.L l « ;Hi«ed,..urorthen..ereean.i!;u^ror!^v^^ at the d.Htunce of a ndle and a half fro Xe they were coHHtrueted the lort. ( .„ h,„ way ,l„wn, which wuh «l„M,t ri^ ii«h hills, n-horc hi- m^y l,,rBe quHiititieH of ';■-«■»*...,.. on the foot, Hi,l..„ ,t„l't„ Hf the at',,"""'." "■'"•^- ">'■'-""•"•'«. of ha ■■„;,*„ at „o „e ,H.„o,l on «,•,■. Me eolUH.t„l »,„..in,t„nr "" '• •" '' <"' l'<'"'S P"t into the fnrnace the har,I and the hardntone b«=a,ne a pumiceetoue glazed ' m 230 UP THE MI8S0UUX. CHAPTER VI r. Indian method of attacking th« buffalo on «io ice-An enumera- tion of the pnwents sent to the president of tlie United States -The party are visited by a Illcara chlef-They leave their encampment, and pnM-eed on their Joumey -Description of the Little Missouri-Mome account of the As.slnllM)lns-Thelr m..de of bwyiuK the dead-Whlteearth river d«'8crUM'tl -Great (luantlty of salt discovered on lt.s bunks Yellow .jtone river d(!Scribed-A particular aecount of the country at the ccmflu- ence of the Yellowstone and Mlsaourl-DeacTlption of the Missouri, the surrouuding country, and of the rivers, creeks Islands, Ac. ' Fnd.'iy L*L\~Thiii was a clear pleasant day, with the wind from the S. 8. \V. We were visited by the second chief of' the Minnetarees, to whom we gave a medal and some presents, accompanied by a speech. Mr. M'Kenzie and Mr. Laroche also came to see us. They all took their leave next day. Stituvdny 1^.7.— 8oon after their departure, a brother of the Horgne with other Indians came to the fort. Tim weather was fine, but in the even- ing we had the first rain that has fallen during the winter. Sunday 24.~T\m morning cloudy, but the after- noon fair, the wind from the X. K. We are em- ployed in preparing for our journey. This evening swans and wild-geese flew towards the N. 10. Monday 25.~X fine day, the wind 8. W. The river rose nine inches, and the ice began breaking away in several places, so as to endanger our canoes which we are hauling down to the fort. Tuesday 1^6'.— The river rose only half an inch, and being choked up with ice near the fort, did 237 M hi f ■ \',-_'|.|„. vvi.Kl in Htiil hi^ri, fponi the S. W.: the u'e which ,„ <««»io,m|lv Htm Tor ! '""•^ '- "'■'■"■"♦'•'I '1,.. i«. in„„ ,.„„ i, : t,i^ -•""".■H are „„„• nearly rea,!,-, ,t„,l w,. expect o x>-t out «„ „„„„ „„ t,,, river i„ HuHiciently c ™r t permit us to iin«« ^ ' *" from t-'' W •"?','"■ ";""""■■■ ""■"■•• """ *"" -"■m .\. «. iiie o|,„tr„ction above ,.,ive wav thiH mor,„„„, and the ice ea„. ,Iow,^ ,72"! qua„„t,e«; the river having ,•,„„. „leve i ch^Hn he course of the last twenty-four hours. ' y^Zll o 1,7 T':: '" *"" '"'' '•- »"" '«»' three o floating hulfalo. Every „,,riuK as the rivfr is a d tr' X'r ™-<»".Ji".' l.iains are set on fl, " and the huifalo tempt,.,! to cross the river i!^ cee,Is to the ha.Au«- -t ^^«»e- jn.i "-"uifictei 01 tne savai»e iiatiouM If they are peaceable and i„„ffi,„sive, the draw.W usually consist of local scenery, and heir f v u Ue 'I versions. If the band are rude and ffero o\. we observe tomahawks, scalping.knives uZ' 1 rows and all the engines of destruction V Ma, ' dan bow and quiver of arrows; also some' U,ca A" weradTe? ^f "" T^^''^-'^"" eorn; to te^ IT., "•' °f P'*"'**' another of insects and three cases containing a burrowing sirrel' a prajne hen, and four n.agpies, all ali™ ' "•fch from the northwest: we were visited by a Ul' THE MISSOUm. number of ^fandans, and are occupied in loading our boats in order to proceed on our journey. Snturdny 6f/7.— Another fine day witli a gentle breeze from the south. The Mandans continue to come to the fort ; and in the course ol the df / in- formed us of the arrival of a party of Ricaras on the other side of the river. We sent our inter- preter to inquire into their reason for coming; and in the morning, Sunday 7th, he returned with a Kicara chief and three of his nation. The chief, whose name is Kagohweto, or Brave Raven, brought a letter from Mr. Tabeau, mentioning the wish of the grand chiefs of the Ricaras to visit the president, and requesting permission for himself and four men to join our boat when it descends ; to which we consented, as it will then be manned with fifteen hands and be able to defend itself against the Sioux. After presenting the letter, he told us that he was sent with ten warriors by his nation to arrange their settling near the Mandans and Minnetarees, whom they wished to join; that he considered all the neighbouring nations friendly except the Sioux, whose persecution they would no longer withstand, and whom they hoped to repel by uniting with the tribes in this quarter: he added that the Ricaras intended to follow our advice and live in peace with all nations, and re- quested that we would speak in their favour to the Assiniboin Indians. This we willingly prom- ised to do, and assured them that their great father would protect them and no longer suffer the Sioux to have good guns, or to injure his dutiful children. We then gave him a small medal, a certificate of his good conduct, a carrot of tobacco, and some wampum, with which he de- parted for the Mandan village well satisfied with Vol. I.-IO 241 ■IHf K * LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION his reception. Having made all our arrange- ments, we left the ibrt about five o'clock in the afternoon. The party now con«i«ted of thirty-two persons, i^esides ournelves were nergeantn John Ordway, Nathaniel Pryor, and Patrick (^ass- the privates were ^^•illianl Hratton, John Colter, John ;olhnB Peter Cruzatte, Robert Frazier, Reuben I;ield8 Joseph FieldH, (ieor^-e Cibnon, Silas (Jood- neh, Hu.h Hall, Thon.as P. Howard, i..ptiste \^"'lV''T^''''''^'' Hugh APNeal, John I otts, John .Shields, (ieorg-e Shannon. John B W ;?'"^Tu'- r^^'''''' ^^'^'™^'^-' Alexander Willard,* Hichard Windsor, Joseph nhitehouse, Peter Wiser and captain Chirks black servant York The two interpreters, ^^ye Ceorge Drewyer and Toussaint Chal>oneau. The wife of Chaboneau also accom- panied us with her youno. child, an,l we hope may be useful as an interpreter among the Snake In- dians. She was herself one of that tribe, but hav- mg been taken in war by the Aiinnetarees, by vhoin she was sold as a slave to Chaboneau, who brought her up and afterwards married her One of the Mandans likewise embarked with us in order to go to the Snake Indians and obtain a peace Avith them for his countrvmen. All this party with the baggage was stowed in six small canoes and two large periogues. ^Ve left the fort with fair iJeasant weather though the northwest wind was high, and after making about four miles encamped on the north side of the Missouri, nearly opposite the iirst Mandan village. At the same tune that we took our departure, our barge manned with seven soldiers, two Frenchmen, and Mr. Cravelines as pilot, sailed for the United States loaded with our presents and despatches ^^'!"'^'''' •'^'^^^-The day was clear and cool, the wind from the northwest, so that we travelled 24:2 UP THE M18S0U11I. slowly. After breakfastiii^r at the second Mandan village, we passed the Alahaha at the mouth of Knife river, a handsome stream about eighty yards wide. Beyond this we reached the island which captain Clark had visited on the aoth October. This island has timber as well as the lowlands on the north, but its distance from the water had prevented our encamping there during the winter. From the head of this island we made three and a half miles to a point of wood on the north, passing a high bluff on the south and having come about fourteen miles. In tl.e course of the day one of our boats filled and was near sinking; we however saved her with the loss of a Uttle biscuit and powder. Tuesday, April /A-We set otf as soon as it was hght, and proceeded live miles to breakfast, pass- ing a low ground on the south, covered with groves of Cottonwood timber. At the distance of SIX miles, we reached on the north a hunting camp of Mmnetarees consisting of thirty lodges, and built in the usual form of earth and timber. Two miles and a quarter farther, comes in on the same side Miry creek, a small stream about ten yards wide, which, rising in some lakes near the Mouse river, passes through beautiful level fertile plains without timber in a direction nearly 8r>uth- west; the banks near its entrance being steep and rugged on both sides of the Missouri. Three miles above this creek we came to a hunting party of Mmnetarees, who had prepared a park or inclos- ure and were waiting the return of the antelope • this animal, which in the autumn retires for food and shelter to the Bla^k mountains during the winter, reeross the river at this season of the year and spread themselves through the plains on the north of the Missouri. \Ve halted and smoked a 2i^] iU ■1,11 m Is 41 'fi-i nl4n LIOWLS AND (JI.AKK'H JOXPKDITION short time with them, and then proceeded on throuft-h handHome plains on each side of the river, and encamjied at the distance of twenty-iLree and a half miles on the north side : the day was clear and pleasant, the wind hiMh from the sonth, but afterwards chan^-ed to a western steady breeze. The bluffs which Ave passed to-day are upwards of one hundred feet hij.h, composed of a mixture of yellow clay and sand, with many horizontal strata of carbonated wood resembling pit-coal, from one to five feet in depth, and scattered throug-h the bluff at different elevations, some as high as eighty feet above the water: the hills along the river are broken, and present every ap- pen ranee of having been burned at some former period ; great quantities of pun.icestone and lava or rather earth, which seems to have been boiled and then hardened by exposure, being seen in many i)arts of these hills where they are broken and washed down into gullies by the rain and melting snow. A great number of brants pass up the river: there are some of them perfectly white, except the large feathers of the first and second joint of the wing which are black, though in every other characteristic they resemble common gray brant: we also saw but could not procure an animal that burrows in the ground, and similar in every respect to the burrowing scpiirrel, except that it is only one third of its size. This may be the animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and prairies; they resemble the labours of the salamander in the sand hills of South Caro- lina and Georgia, and like him, the animals rarely come above ground ; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds of loose ground which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, though no aperture is seen through which it could 2U M UP TITK MISSOURI. have been thrown: on removing gently the earth, you discover that the soil lias been broken in a circle of about an inch and a hah' diameter, whore the ground is looser though still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped for dinner the squaw went out, and after penetrating with a Hharp stick the holes of the mice, near some drift wood, brought to us a quantity of wild arti- chokes, which the mice collect and hoard in large numbers; the root is white, of an ovate form, fiom one to three inches long, and generally of the size of a man's finger, and two, four, and some- times six roots are attached to a single stalk. Its fiavour as well as the stalk >vhich issues from it resemble those of the Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter is much larger. A large beaver was caught in a trap last night, and the mos- quitoes begin to trouble us. WeiJiwsfhiy 70.— We again set off early with clear pleasant weather, and halted about ten for breakfast, above a sandbank which was falling in, and near a small willow island. On both sides of the Missouri, after ascending the hills near the water, one fertile unbroken plain extends itself as far as the eye can reach, without a solitary tree or shrub, except in moist situations or in the steep declivities of hills where they are sheltered from the ravages of fire. At the distance of twelve miles we reached the lower point of a bluflf" on the south; which is in some parts on fire and throws out quantities of smoke Avhich has a strong sul- phurous smell, the coal and other appearances in the bluffs being like those described yesterday: at one o'clock we overtook three Frenchmen who left the fort a few days before us, in order to make the first attempt on this river of hunting beaver, which they do by means of traps: their efforts ■ 1: I LKWIS AND CLARK'S FOXPEDrTfON pron.iH.. to 1,0 «U(.coHHfnl for thoy havo alroudv cau-ht tu'(.Ive wl,icl. air li„er than any wo have ever Hoon: they ,noan t. accompany uh a,H far as tho^oHowHtono river in onhr to obtain our pro- tection a-aiiiHt the AHsinil.„inH who mi^^ht attack tlieni. In the ovenin;u^ we encamped on a wiMow P''"it to the Houth opposite to a h\utl\ above u'lueh a Hinall creek fhllH in. and juHt nbove a '•eniarkable beiul in th(> river to the Bonthw.st, which we called the Littl.' HaHin. The h,w ft:n,„nd« which we ,)aHH,.d to-day P(,hh,'hs more timber than in iiHual. and are wider; the current is moderate, at h.iHt not «reater than that of tho Ohio ,11 hio-h tides; the bankH too fall in but lit- tle; so that the navigation comparatively with that lower down the MisH<»uri is safe and easy. Ue were enal,led to make eio-hteen and a half nnles: we saw the track (»f a larM'e white bear, there were alno a herd of antelopes in the pUiins- the tn^ese and swan are now teedino. i„ conKi(W ble quantities on the youn«- ^-rass in the low prairies ; we shot a prairie hen. and a, bald ea^de ot winch there were many nests in the tall cotton- wood trees; but could procure neither of two elk which were in th«> plain. Our old comj.anions the mosquitoes have renew<^d their visit, and gave us iiinch uneasiness. Thm's IrHH ineonvenuMit iih we ure obliM-ed to wa.h' in Ho.ne plucen owin«- to th(. HhMllowneHH of the river. At Hevn n.ih'H we iVMched a lnr«-e Hundhar n.akln/r ont fVoui the n(»rth. We aM'ain ntopped for dinner, after which we went on to a HuiaJl phiin on tlie north covered with Cottonwood wiiere we encainp.-.l, having i.nule nineteen nuh-n. The conntry aronnd in n.nch the 8ani(> as that W(^ j.aHHed .yeHterday: on the HidcH of tin. hillH, and even on th.> l^an'kn of the rivers, as well as on the saiidbarn, is a white snb- Htancc^ winch appears in conKi.lerabJe (luantitieson tlie Hurfac.^ of the eartli, and tastes like a mixture of common salt witli ^-ianher salts: n.any of the Htreams which come from the loot of the hills are 8() stron-ly impreo.„at(«d with this substance, that the water has an unph^asant taste and a pur^^a- tive effect. A beaver was cauj^-ht last ni-lit by on,; of the Frenchmen; we kille.l two ^vese, and H I w some cranes, the lar«vst bird of that kind conimon to the Missouri and Mississippi, and per- ectly white excei)t the large feathers on the two irst joints of the win<,. which are black. Cnder a l)luff opposite to our encampment we discovered some Indians with horses, whom we supposed were Minnetarees, but tin; width of the river pre- vented our speakino- to them. /'V/V/.-y-, l-flj.-Wo set off early and passed a high range of hills on the south side, our periogues being obliged to go over to the south, in order to avoid a sandbank which was rapidly falling in At SIX miles we came to at the lower side of the entrance of the Little Missouri, where weremained during the day for the purpose of making celestial I Mi/ m ^ Hi hKWlH AND (;i,AliK'.S KXI'KDITlo.V obHervatlonH. Thi„ river ,.,„|,ti,.„ itBelC „„ the sou h«,Ie..rth„ .Mi™„.,ri. ..,„. tU,J,^i^,^ v.th tl,e M,«H.»«,i,|,i. It ri«.„ f. the went of the which It h. Uh a narrow r,i|,i,] „a„«tge ttlouir hih l.er„e„"" '^^ n;:;V,:' ;;/::;:;,:■';;:: ',:;: t .,,«(„ (I,,.. U„,n,l„,i„„.„.|, V „.,„■ „M ,l„. «■,.«. „.,.,•.. ,„.„ i„ i,. „„„ ,, „ .^ - " 111 ■ ( H'CK (m>(»h«« cn'i'k mill Hi.. ";■■,;";,:•""■ ■""""^ k-«mv..o';:., "'-. '".Ml. M„. ,„,,„ „n„„/,.,„ ;;„;;': ;.:'-:::;;:;;;;;•''' '"■■"^"-- "-"">• .>...„;,; m. ,,:,"'' 'i""".voni„.„,, ^.,,„ lir Tifi-: Missnirui, ol'llir Liltlc MiMHoiiri a CMiivoiiiciil liiintiiiK KI'ii(*>iiii|mmI in i\, JHwiulit'iil pinin on t\w iiMrlli (liirly i'vvl nlxjvc^ r: n low ^ronndn iiro Hi^vernl nninluil>ited lod^^eH Iniilt^ with the bon^liM of t he elm, Mild the retnniiiH of two recent. iMietinipineiilH, which I'roin t he hoopH oIhiiimII ke^H I'oiind in them we judged <'oiild lieloii)^ to AHHJni- hoiiiH only, nH they ;-Ho|'rinn their drierH IwiH Hiipplied them with tJi(> meaiiH of intoxica- tion: in tiuH, an in their other liahitH and cnntoniH, they renembh^ the Sioux from whom they are deKcended: tlu? trade with the AHHinihoinn and KniHtenanx in encour/ijj;ed by th(! {{ritinh, hec/iUHe it proctircH proviHion for their e//^^•/^'•e,s• on their return from Itainy lak(! to th(; FOn^:liHh riv« r and the Athabanky country when? they winter; theHO men beinj^ oblig(!d during that voyage to [iSim 2r. 1 • » t IIH ■II ' 1 {' ■ i I lb » M:«1S and ,;,„utk".S I.;Xf.K„iT,o.V tlicr.. w« call,.,! ..<„., , •' "' '""■ '"•"val above the ij::, , ;. ^ ;■" '"-','' «■■•- a„,l tlie Houth; tlie in,|„Tnm»f „(• *l '" '"■"'" i«te,.p,.;te,. who' l. ;;;;::,'; " t'- '"■"■^ "" «'th a vany «r h:i,Z;'":;™™' "-'''' m«« h„d ever been exc,.„ t v f r "" '''''"'' «h,„„ Lapage i« '.jh ',' *"",''^'''«^'""'^». one of tbeir >v,vet™LL" r ""• '""' "''" ' "i-K lost what Poh,t w \tl'',f;r ""'™ '■"■•"'«r. though to and a halll to"^'' ,, ': ^r*'""^ "'""" '^ '"•''^ point or woo"t so lo « the n elr „, H ' '"'•'■• *'"■"«'' "latin,;. So,,.,, deer „R ,' ^ """"'"■ *° ''« "I 111, a,l(l tH-,1 white oileH \t ne* we |„wse,l o„ the ,.o.-th «i,I,. , '™ ""'''•' y.t,.,is ,vi.ie, which w?rL,rt *"'""'^ '' l"i,-k or euclo«,„-e (L t '""'tl'™ "reek, lro,„ '■""".I, a,.,I whieh we ,1 , e , "" "'" "'•^'^ l-y the .U«„i,,oi„ "™ 1 ".''".™ '»"■■' left with ,„i„e,-Hl salts an,/*,. "'il>i-egr,ated it Hows eo,,sistr ;, ' ,' ''",'"*''^' *'"•""«'' whieh but witho,;; :, ; tl:"":,:::;:'-^ ';-•""• """"-' tance of twe„tv.three ,„i '"""""'«' '« »''« <««- the south; ,ve ,a"ed "rf- "" '\ '""><'l'""'t to the „,i,l,lle of the nW t ,. '"T'" " '°* '» tie above our e-,' i '."""r' "''"■"''""' "t" yards. "''' "* *='""""•'' «ithin eighty same ai,,,e„,.a„,.e'„ ''I ""*''*' '"■"«■'"« the tl.e rive 1 ,r,, , r '"'"''^ '""' ""e.'ulows ,„. .entity Of r,L:;:iXrrt:i:r^,r appearances Of ,..i,,e,.a,»_eo,,ti,..,e:rrS, a?; UP THE MISSOUKI. to-day we found several stones which seemed to have been wood, first carbonated and then i)etri- iied by the water of tlie Missouri, wliicli has the same effwt on many vegetable substances. There is indeed reason to believe that the strata of coal in the hills cause the lire and aijpearances which they exhibit of being- burned. Whenever these marks present themselves in the bluffs on the river, ^he coal is seldom seen, and when found in the m ighbourhood of the strata of burnt earth, the coal with the sand and sulphurous matter usually accompanying it, is precisely at the same height and nearly of the same thickness with those strata. We passed three small creeks or rather runs, which rise in the hills to the north. Numbers of geese, and a few ducks chiefly of the mallard and blue winged teal, many buffido, elk and deer were also observed, and in the timbered low grounds this morning we were surprised to observe a great (luantity of old hornets' nests: we encamped in a point of woods on the south, having come eighteen miles, though the circuits which we were obliged to make round sandbars very much increased the real distance. Wednesday, April 17.— We set off early, the weather being fine, and the wind s(j favourable as to enable us \ -lail the greater part of the course. At ten and three quarter miles we passed a creek ten yards wide on the south ; at eighteen miles a little run on the north, and at night en- co.mped in a woody point on the south. We had travelled twenty-six miles through •^ country similar to that of yesterday, except that there were greater appearances of burnt hills, furnishing large quantities of lava and pumicestone, of the last of which we observe some pieces floating down the river, as we had previously done, as " .•.. UOW'IS A Vf) I' I 4 1,,... «•' nro the r,.,nain„ ,„• , , *." *''" "'I'ses of "■""t^; ar,n„ul u *'"'„*"""' '''"" -■ca,,,,,- •leer and wolven. tl„' rX\., i' ""*'''"'"'^' """'"' "f "•I'ieh i„ ,„o,,. ri'lT ,'"'';■ ''""''"•• «'" flesh "t'.,.r f„.,d w.,i. w 1 \"': r" *""" "»^ l"w«,I t»-,.„tv.f!„„- l,o 1 , . "'"""'' "''"' had '"^;'- o„ t,,e H,,eC:,;;„ra;; :;'•"' "^''''■'»' ''- we were m^a to stoi, .V "' '" ^'^^^^ ^^^^^ tinned our course ''^ ^""^ ^^^ *^^^" con- We eiicauji)ed al)ont .i.>..i "-.n.. a,a,l' tl,;:!;:? "" ! ''-""^ hank rented the ;.«,,al variety t , ™"'"*'''>' Pf"- -'th rich ..ki„H. 1;' !';f' """'" "'t-spersed species of,,,.,, l,ea,.in;T," , n "" ° "-"'«> - ""«■ i.. W„„s„,„, t,„ 1,;^ •,"""„"""■'''•. which i„ con„„„„ „„„. J J, [,;'''.'"'';."*"''''"'« the inehes, and the -0** " *"""■ *'""' "'•'' hushes «eal™s,?vV ''"'''""'"I- '»■' the rose ;;"»^'o.«-hicirh:;;;:r';:::cK^^^^^^^^^^^^^ r^r;'r'r.r;;n"-""'?-^^^^^ ""ky. A huffid. ;, w ^.r ..;',"' '"<"•" -ft and sli«l liis Io«.M,„i,. a ti r .'•e'-terday ha,! "hout twoine'h:;';^':!!''';; e"'"'t"' "■■'" have furnished live pom ds nf , , ' '"■ "'<"'''' "-ve no donht an ex I le^t .oT ' °' 7""'" "" Our game to-day was '""^ ''"' """'e. •^ ««*. heaver, a deer, an ellc, UP THIO MlS8f)[mi. and some ^eeHo. 1'he river has been crooked k.\l day and bearing towards the south. On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, which seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of the day an elk, three geese and a beaver. "Phe beaver on this part of the Missouri are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur is more abundant and ofa darker colour than any we had hitherto seen : their favourite food seems to be the bark of the Cottonwood and willow, as we have seen no otlK^r species of tree that hos been touched by them, and these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches. The next day, Friday, i'.)th, the wind was so high from northwest that we could not proceed, but being less violent on Safuvdny 2W(l.'ivH. \\V HH. ilP(>HO ,i,„l .. utfi>.. II. I » "< f,« I Ml", (tlKI N(>lll(> luiil ill o I »<.Hi.i,iiin-.vi• y'"-'!" wMi,., „i„i i„ ,,„„„ „„„ ""■■''""•': ''■>■ I ' -'^ rli. AM„„,M,ri ,1 It it ".."w.«.iiM-,,H l»l*ol»j||»Iy H lo |)|>MM« «' \V/IH ( ||(< • !• ill 111,, ilioiii tir- H'H ol' iuul nt tlw li'it itH io. ItH nei^h- irou)L«li iout li I'l- 'rilK MISHOIIKf. tree or IiiihIi of nii.y deHeriptii.ii. iJ/iHn mil,, |„^ .Voii.l tliiH river w.. eiieniiiped on (he hmiik^ Hide Ix'lou n, i>oint <.(• liiKiihuid, wliieli In.iii ItH an- pennuiee vv,« rail Cut hliiii: Mnn,ln,\' 'Jl',1. The ^\ay v\iuu' ami cold: we panned a. Iii«:h Idull'on the iiortii /iihI pInJiiH on (hi* Hoiidi, in whieh were hii^e lierdn ol' hiillalo, (il| iM-eakliiHt. when tlu- wind heeaine ho ntron^ „i„.nd thai we proceeded with diineiilty even wi(h the aid of tii(^ towline. Some oc'the p/irty „„w walked /icroHH to tli(. VVhitee/irth river, wliiVh here at (he diHtaiiee of lour inilen Ironi itn month up- proachen very near to the MinwHiri. It eont/iiiiH more water tliaii Ih iiHtial in Htreanm oC the n/inie HJzeatthiHHe/iHi.ii, with nteep Imnkn about ten or twelve (iM't hlK-h, /iiid the walcr in n::ieh eh./mT '-'""• lI'Mt of the MiHHoiiri; tln^ H/dtn whieh have* been menlioned an eoininon on the Minnoiiri, an; hen- HO abundant that in majiy plaeeK tli.- mtoimmI appeai-H perleetl.y white, and [n.m thin eirnim- Ht/uieiMt may have deny,.,| iu imnie; it w/itern an open conntry and in iiaviMa-l)le almont to itn Honire, whieh in not far Irom the .Sa.Hka,Hka,wa,n, nnd jndM-in;,^ from itn Hiz<- and eonrne, it in j)r(,ba,- bh' th/it it extendH an lar north an tJMf liltieth (IcM-rce oC latitude. Alter miieh delay in eoiiHe- ni(' remote period to hav(! been Hiibjirt to itn influem^e, being ap- I)a,rently worn Hinooth by thi; agitation of tho water. TlK'n,; roekH and HtoiuiH eouHint of white mid gray granite, a britth' black rock, flint, lime- 'it! ''I'^^VIS AM) Cl.AIJKS KMMODITION Nloiic. IrccsjoiH'. NoniP lent pHihlc, niid Hiiinll HiKM'imriiH «»C Mil cxcrl- "n-Msion.-.lly Un.Iv.Mi ntnitaH oC u llink(>J^-(KHl NVlU'lsloiH'H. Tl null. "•' iiHiiMl »i|i|M'nnni('('H ul' •"* •'"'•'"»'"«<<''l ^^ry lit (I licnJH of (I •'"• <|iNilit.v Mild iii«: nr(\ (Miiit- <> Hiiiokr or IJMinc. Til ccr, (' ol" iih: the hiilDiJ I'lilliilo. niid niitclopcH <'!•(' iwv hirivc "I view <» .'in' not HO HJiv iiH tl (lic.v siilliT lis to jipiM-oni'h will .VMnJH hclorr tli liii iiiiiidrrd tlK'ir luistiirc iit .V nm. {iiid tJHMi Htop ;iiid \V(> vcr.v Hhort l(>asMiit inornin^-. lint i«> wind became so hi^h that II boats were in daii.ovr of npsel tiii^-; we tl were forced to stop at a, place ofsaf'et.v till al live in the al'tei we firoceeded and le lerelore noon, when the wind hein^- I )()iif ower distance of thirteen and a I «'iicamped on the north at tl i(» iMlf miles: the party on shore hroiioht ns a hnlDilo calf and tl tailed deer; tlu HMiid on the river has the UTv hlack- Mppeai-Miices as usual, except tiiat th wood increase! saiiK^ UUMiitity of MV-/.-The wind blew s<. hio-h d the whole day tliat indeed was it we were unable to iiioy, s violence, that althoiiel iiriii;^- such sheltered by hio-h timber tl articles in the boats; the hunt( returned with tour deer, two elk 1 Wi' were M' AVMves wet ma "y rs went out and wolves of the small 1 and kind. Tl '2i)0 some younif le party are very ION an rxcrl itas ol ly I. wliicli •MiiccH (>r (Hie hHII lil.V niitl in view |'<'nI. Ibr liiiiMh-(>(| rt'Hiiiiic niid ^it l«'«'I) lip caHions ret n 'J 1 1 i«" any 11^-. 1)11 1 luit I lie ici'd'orc about ' lower nt tho rt.v on black- ' Namo tit.y of lurin;^- '; such XNcrc many t and roun^ very "I' Till-: MlssoifUI. inncli /'fFliclt'd nifl I Horc (' I'yi'H, wliicli we pn'Humn "•••• occaHioncd Uy (I,,, van! .,.uuHilirH of Hund which aiv HniulUnvH in Hiirh cIoimIm aHolIni lo hidr lh,.n iih thr virw of ( hr oppoHilr I'^'ak. The \mvUv\oH oCihiH Hnnd niv ho (i,,,. „„,) IikI>I Ihat, it MonfH Ibr ...ilcH i» (},<. „ir Ijkr „, <'">"""" «>l' Miick Hinokc, nnd in ho pciiofnitinK t Iml "oMmiih: rnn hr krpf In t Iron. i(, niid W(. nnMM.ni- !•;"<'«' <'» ''^'l- 'iHnk, nnd hivnllM. i( very ropi.MiHJv To Hir Maine oaiiHc w,. n(lrilMit(. Mi.> diHorder of <»"<' «'<ni(cd JhiH niorii- uiK, iMit wa,HH(ill hi^h; w(. (JH.n'Ibn.Hcl out n.rly tlic w<.n(hcrlM>in^H«M'old (hnl, fhc water (h.ze /„,' IIm' oai-H HH w(> n.wrd, and nhont, ten oVIoek the wind inerenHed ho nmrh that, we were ohli^vd to Htop. ThiH (h'tention In. in the wind and the tv- portH Iron, onr hnnt,erH of the cnx.kedneHH ofthe nver, induced uh to believe thn,t we wen' nt, no Kvvat diHt,a,nc(. Iroin the VellowHtone river In "••''•'>• HHM-efon^ to pn'vent (h>la,y an much hh pon- Hible, captain Lewiw determined to «•<» on by Inml i» H(.n,rch or that riv(.r, and nwike the ..(r.-HHary «)l)H(«rva,t,ionH, h.. an to bo emibjed to pmce.-d on "Minediately alter the boatH HJionld join hini • )„. therefore landed al)ont eleven o'clock on the nonth KKhs accompanied by Ibnr men; th<. boatH were pn>venl(>d (Vom ^..in^- „„til (Ivo in the alternoon when they w(>nt on a, (ew niilen Cnrther and en- camped Ibr the ni«-ht at the diHtaiUM! of fourteen and a hall" inilcH. /'nVA'/.r -'^;.— VN'e continued our voya^n* in the mornino- a,id by twelve o'clock encan'iped at ei^-ht inilcH (liHtance, at the junction ofthe Minnouri and h' !■! I.IIWIS AND ( LAUKH MXI'MDITiON VrllowH(Mn,« rlvri'M; u In-iv wr \v,mv hooii juinnl hv «Nip(niii l,(>\viH. <>" l<>nvii,K- iiH .v,.H|,.nln.v ho imm-himmI IiIm i-miHo '»I<"'K- Hio lool oni.r hillH. w|,i,.|, |„. MHn.mlnl ni Mio .liMfniHv orriM-hl inilrH; (Vuni (hrnr ||.,> wi,|o I'l'HMH wnlrml h.y (|,r MisHunrl nii.l M„. V,.||ow. Hh.no HiMVM.I nirii.H.«lv..M Uv\hvv IliP rvo. « nHinn J«li.v viirwi] Willi n.o wo.mI of t|,o lmni•«'■'''««'>«» »>.v (1.0 wo,.d. i.nl (ho V,.||owH(oiu. i(H(.|r WMH onl.v (wo iniI,.M W00.1H. ImK (h<> ,>lk. MiKvhM"'. and '»"(lMh. Hulloml hin. (,» nppronrh (hem wilhout '•;'•■"•'". '»'«l «>n«"M loMow,>d hin. ,p,i,.(lv lor hom.o «l«s(an(v. This morninn- !>«» H(>n( a man up (he nv(>r (o rxnn.inr i(. whih* ho pro, di>d down (o !lowHlono Moar ils nMuilh. is lini. and lor ahor in tho noi^hlM.urho.Ml of Huh piaoo. and on tho Mi^^Houri, as far l)oh)w an tho Whi(ooarth rivor than on any othor part of (l,o MiHHonri on thin «uio of tho (^hayonno: tho tin.bor ooiiHiHtH prinoi- pally of oottonwood. with Honio Hniall olni uhH and box aldor. On tho KandharH and alon^r tho margin of tho rivor «-rowH (iio Hniall-Ioaiod willow; in tho low ^ToundK adjoininj.- aro Hcattorod roHO^ bii8hoa throo or lour foot hi«h, the rodherry, sor- 2(}2 ON • ilHMl by Ih mil to iMlnl Hi ln> \Vi(|(» Vollow- IMWlHioll- ilivnitMl TH. (iikI t'lk, twul M'M WMM u> i(H< ii.V niid »\ find i idioiit, I" HUIMO lip t\w wii to MlI'MlO nlMnit, wliih^ Ml Mio iiHiial vvfitor, re tiin- Ml Ml(» river, II tln'H :)riiK'i- , (IhIi, K tho How; roHO- , ser- ni' Tirr, mihsoukj. vIcrlH'i-rv '"Ml ndwiMHi. Tlir liij^ln-r phiiiiH /in« <'i(li(-r iiiiiiH>(lin.li>l,v 'Ml tin' rivi'i-, in vvliirh rnMc (licy mro K;(>ni'rnll.v (iinlMMTd, mid linvo nii niidpixi'MWIli lil<(' llwii olllic low k:i imIh, wIMi Mm> iiddilicMi «,!' Mh' JM-ond Icnli'd willow, ^ooHchcrrv, rliolo'riM'ri'v, iMirpI- nirniMl, (ind lioiicyHiirkh-: or Ihcy /i,n< Imv- (ween IIm> low ^nMiiidH ; MiiH pinitl, riHCM nlioiil, (wo r«'j«|, hijjrh, /itid like (he willow oC llic K.iiid'inrM \^ .';, !iivoiiril«' (iuHl oC Mic hiiMJilo, oik, doer, j4;roiiHP, porrMpiiic, Imrc, (ind nildtil. 'I'Imh river wliirli Iwiil Immm known (o the I'l-cncli mm (Ih- i:o('li(> jniiiM', o Indi/in inlorninlifMi in Mm l{o('ky iiionntntl(^ and innch oliHtnicted by Handi)arH, that at liv(^ inilcH he had met with a lar^e tim- bered iHla,nd, three? milcH beyond which a creek IUHh in on the S. i: abov(' a hij^h bluff, in which 2i',:i * • »f^ I'liwis ,\\h TLAUKs i':\ri:hiTi(»\ nro M»«v«i«li(.vnnlH. uilh I wo h..,n,lmi „ihI "niH.v-Movrn .vmhIh of wnl,.r: (lir .l.-riM-Nf p„rl ol' <'"• <'l""MiH iN iw,.|v,. tWi, iMil tl„. rivn- in now l"""'^' '«ml H,.ni,M t.i Im. nrnHv „( iln Hii,iin,rr lii'i^lit. i/T/v :>r.-\\v i,.n th.. moiKh ,,r n,,. v,.||„,v. HtuiiP. rVoM, (I,,, point oCjinu'don n woo.l o,vii- |H.>s (l„. Hpnn« l.,.lw,.,.n (lir (avo Hv.tm. wliirli nt HMMliHtanroora mil,. oonii.H within (wo liniiilml ""•1 lll'l.v .VMnls<,(om.|, o(|„.r. Tl.m. n hPniKiCuI low phiin couiinoniVH, ami wi,l,.niii;.- mh (li,. rivn-H mv| ol' nixty op H('v,.n(.v .vanlH in widlli, v',. tlio jimcdon and b,- t w,vn (h,^ hi^h and low plain is a Hmall lak,., two '•'nulml .vanls wid,^ ,.x(,.ndinM- lor.', mil,. panill,.| >Mtli til,' .Miss,)nn al,m«- (h,. ,.,i^-,. of tlu^ upiicr plain A( (h,^ |,>w,.r ,.xtiv ni(.v ,.r this lal<(^ about tour humlml yanls iron, th,. AlinHonri, an,l twice 2(11 ^MM nr 'I'lii; viisMorid, TIm Mml (iJHtiiiH'o rroiii (III. \t'||owMtMii(., in M n\uii{U>t\ Ihk'IiI.v «'li«il.l(. lor n (ni(liii«; (.Mlnl.liHliMK-iil,; it Ih in Mh< IiIwIi |)|/iiii wliirli .•xIcikIh \,tu'U Mirer mJltH in wlillli. mimI Mcvrn or eiKJil, mJIrH in IciikIIi, nlonj^ Jln' Vclh.WHluiH". \vli..n' it \n lionirn'ij |,y /in ex (niHivp ImmIv or \v(MM||»in MiHHiniri Willi l«'HH ItnwKllli. lill ihivc niilcH u\ti>\r it in cir nmiHrrilicd l»,v llicliillH williin n hj./mt I'oiir .v/iiiIm ill Nvidlli. A Hiimricnl, qii/inlil.v .»r liiiicHloiif liir lHiil«liii«; iii/iy «'/iHil.v lie pronircd ncjir (lie jiinrlion of llio rivrrH; il docM nol li)> in rr^nilnr hIi'/iI/ih, Iml iH in |«mx(« irn^iilnr iiinHHrH. ol' loo iH vcr.v nlninHnnt, niiii nn .yd «|iiil(. ^n-nllc; /iIm.vc nil, ilH clcvnlion rrconinii'iidH il nn prclirnhlf lo tin* 'u;'.u\ III Mic ronlliicnrc ol" Hie rivcrH, wliicli llicir vnj-i/ilil<> clinnnrlH niny render very iiiHcnire. The iN. \V. wind rone ho hi^h /i|, eleven o'clock, Mini we were ohli^ed (,o hIo|. lill nl>oiil, loiir in Mm' Mllernoori, when we proceeded lill dunk. On Mm? HoiiMi n, htwiutirnl pinin HepnrnleH Ili(> |,vy«. riverH, Mil nl, nlxnil. nix inilcH Miere Ih n linil.ere<| piece oC low KTonnd, nnd n, little nhove it, I,|ii(Ih, where the coiintry rineH /^n-ndiniily f'n.iii the nver; MieHitiia- tioiiH on the north more hi^h nnd op«'n. We en- <'Mniped on Mint Hide, th(! wind, the nniid which it niiHcd. /ind tlio r.pidity of Mie current hn,vin/r in-evented our ndvnncin^r i,,,,,.,. thnn ei^-ht niilen; dnrinjr ||„. \nUvv pnrt (»l'th(M|/iy Mie river heconicH wider nnd crowded with Hnndhnrn: /iltlioii^h th«f K-nnie in ill HMch plenty we kill only what iH necen- Hnr^ (or onr Hiil»HiH(en<'e. I'or nevenil dnyH pnnt we hnvo Heen ^n'^it imniherH of hnllhlo lyin^r dead Jilon^: (he Hhore, nnd noine of them partly de- voured by tho woIvch; they have; ('iiher Hunk Miron^^h the ice durin^^ the winter, or boon drowned in attempting- to ci-ohh, or cIhc, after rt| P] n ftHlf II ii ! ;;,"'" ^^♦*'<>"n .„,! mor. Mula K P i WW 2GG \.-^ roN I'lvcH ton inj hnvk llJH N >u- )(• Ml. lie PCHtH ».V tl)< 44 »n' THE MLSSOlJItl. CHAPTER VTTT. IJnuHiml apiMiiiraiUM) of milt— 'I'lio fc iiildiibln chanwUT of th« wlilt«» iMMir- IVmniiilmi iIvit (I«'hV the wolves take them as they are cr.^ing 4 rivers, for although swift of foot 1/.., .re n't good swimmers. * Wednes^Jay, May i.-The wind was in our favour and we were enabled to use the .ails till twelve o clock, when the wind became so higi. . rA 270 UP THE MISSOURI. equally that we were forced to come to at the distance of ten miles on the south, in a low ground stocked with cottonwood, and remain there during the day; one of the canoes being separated from us, and not able to cross over in consequence of the high waves. The country around is more pleasant than that through which we had passed for several days, the hills being lower, the low grounds wider and better supplied with timber, which consists prinoipally of cotton- wood: the undergrowth willow on t le banks and sandbars, rosebushes, red willow, and ihr^ broad- leafed willow in the low plains, while the high country on both sides is one e> tensive plain with- out wood, though the soil is a dark, rich, mellow loam. Our hunters killed a buffalo, an oik, a goat, and two beaver, and also a bird jf the plover kind. Thursday, 2(1.— ThQ wind continued high during the night, and at daylight it began to snow and did not stop til! ten o'clock, when the ground was covered an inch deep, forming a striking contrast with the vegetation which is now considerably advanced ; some flc wer£ having put forth, and the cottonwood leaves as larre as a dollar. The wind lulled aboat five o'clock in the afternoon, and we then proceed>?d a'rng wide fertile low grounds and high level plains, and encamped at the distance of four miles Our game to-da • .7as deer, elk, anc. bufifel' we alfo procured %hre^ beaver who are quite gentle, as they have net been hunted, but when the hunters are in pursuit they never leave their lijts during the day: this animal we est-m a great delicacy, particularly the tail, which when boiled resembles in flavour the flesh tonguen • r-i sounds of the codlsh, and is generally so largo as to afford a pleutiful meal for 271 i.rM iSf^pOMPRMPI \i , i 1 ( ! ! ;l LrOVVIS AND CLARK'S EXPKI)IT[()N two men. Ono of the hunterH in pansin^. near an '>'<1 I'Hlwm can.,, found several yanh of aearlet Hotl. Hnnpended on the ho„«l.H c.f a tree as a Haei-ihce to the deity by the AsHinihoinH: the ens- ton, of making, these (.ffe.-in^^s bein^^ con.n.on an.on^^ that peoph' as inch-nl an.on^. all the In- *lwi"H on the Missoui-i. The air was sharp this evemnM-; the water froze on the oars as we rowed and in the morning, ' AVvV/./.r, ;/J, the weather becfiu.e (piite cold the lee was a quarter of an inch thick in the kc'ttle and the snow still c,.ntinued on the hills tlx.u.rli It has n.elted fron. the plains. The wind too continue(i hio-h fh.n. the W(>st, but not so violently as to prevent our M'oin^r on. At two n.iles fron. onr encan.pn.ent we passed a cui-ious collection of bushes about thirty feet hio-h and t. n or twelve in dia,n.eter, tied in the forn. of a, fascine and stand- iiiM- on end in the n.iddle of the lowMTound: this too we supposed to have been left by the Indians " • a reh-ious sacrifice: at twelve o'clock the usual «u ;• we halted for din..er. The low «Tounds on '. river are much wider than common, sonie- tiu.es extendino: f,om five to nine miles to the lu«-hla,nd«, which are much lower than heretofore not oein^. more than fifty or sixty feet above the lower plain: through all this valfey traces of the ancient bed of the river are every where visible nnd since the hills have become lower, the stratas of coal, burnt earth, and pumicestone have in a fe^reat measure ceased, there being in fact none to- day. At the distance of fourteen niih.s w. rea< hed the mouth of a river on the north, which frc . the unusual number of porcupines near it, we called I orcupine river, l^his is a bold and beautiful stream one hundred and tAvelve yards wide, though the water is only forty yards at its en- 272 [ON near an •f scarlet ree aa a the eiis- [ioninion I the In- arp this rowed, old, the kettU', thoUjirh iiid too iolently "H from L'tioii of .elve in Htand- nl : tiuH IndianH 3 usnal ndH on 8ome- to the tolbre, )ve tJie of the i^iisible, trataa " in a »ne to- ;f»ched .' i the called butiful wide, ts en- UP THE AIkS80UUI. trance: captain Clark who aHcended it Heveral mileH and panned it above where it enters the hi^h- landH, found it continued nearly of the same width and about knee deep, and as far an he could dis- tin;r„i„i, for twenty niih.H from the hills, its course was from a little to the east of north. There was much timber on the low grounds: he found some limestone alno on the surfiice of the earth in the course of his walk, and saw a ran^r(. of low moun- tains at a distance to the west of north, whose direction was nortlnvest; the adjohjin^r country bein^M'very where level, fertile, open, and exceed- ingly beauthid. T\w water of this river is trans- parent, and is the only one that is so of all those that fall into the MiHsouri: before enterinj,- a lar^^e sandbar throu^-h which it dischar«-es itself, its low grounds are formed of a stiff blue and bhick clay, and its banks which are from ei^Hit to ten feet hi^^h and seldom if ever overflow are composed of the same materials. From the s of trees that have formfd i7u '''' "'"^ *^'^ '""'^'^^ themselves!! 81-3 of a man s le^^ or arm, and twelve feet lonir willows, and si)readin«- out so as to form at the base a circle of ten or fourteen feet in d amete a.|unst these are placed pieces of driftw~ , fallen tiniber, usually in three ranges one on the other, and the interstices are covered with leave bark and straw, so as to form a conical iTure ddrforTh ^* ''''\ '''''' '' ^^"^" ^^-*-e in'on -. t! r^'"'''- Iti«'boweve: at best a very "eaTon ""'''' "'""^* '''' inclemencies of the betr^n ""7,^^' ^""^ ^ ^"' "^"""°^' ^''^ ^^^ wind being from the east we used our sails At thp distance of five miles we came to a smail itland ana twelve miles farther encamped on the north,' liLthat'r'""/?'''"*'"" ''^''' ''"^^ ^-^-^^y like that of yesterday is beautiful in the extreme Among the vast quantities of game around us Te slde^frr '"?" '''''''' ""'^^^'^ differing con- siderably from the common Canadian goose- it" neck, head, and beak, being much thickVla^ and shorter in proportion to its size, which Ts Ts not v.t f M ''^^* ""' "' ^ ^^"°^ ^^-'^ that nas not yet fully acquired its note; in other respects its colour, habits, and the nu^^^TZ feathers in the tail, the two species correspond this species also associates in flocks with the large fhT wh-? r ^^""^ "^* '^" '' ^^'' ««'^ith them. J he white brant is about the size of the common brown brant, or two thirds of the common gole fWff^^ '¥ t 1 ''! i" i. « 1; It Jl It I I LEWIS AM) C LA UK'S EXPEDITION than which it is also Hix inches Bhorter from the extremity of the win^H. tlioujjfh the bealt, head, and neck are larger and stronger : the body and wings are of a beantiful i)ure white, except the hhuik feathers of the first and second joints of the wings; the beali and legs are of a reddish or fiesh- colonred white, tlie eye of a moderate size, the pnpil of a deep 8ea-green incircled witli a ring of yellowish brown, the tail consists of sixteen feathers equally long, the flesh is dark and as well as its note differs but little from those of the common brant, whom in form and habits it re- sembles, and Avith whom it sometimes unites in a common flock; the white brant also associate by themselves in large flocks, but as they do not seem to be mated or paired off, it is doubtful whether they reside here during the summer for the purpose of rearing their young. The wolves are also very abundant, and are of two species. I rst, the small wolf or burrowing dog of the prairies, which are found in almost all the open plains. It is of an intermediate size be- tween the fox and dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. The ears are large, erect, and pointed; the head long and pointed, like that of the fox ; the tail long and bushy ; the hair and fur of a pale reddish brown colour, though much coarser than that of the fox ; the eye of a deep sea-green colour, small and i)ierciug; the talons rather longer than those of the wolf of the Atlan- tic states, which animal as far as Ave can perceive is not to be found on this side of the river I Matte. These wolves usually associate in bands often or tAvelve, and are rarely if ever seen alone, not being able singly to attack a deer or antelope. They live and rear their young in burroAvs, Avhich they fix near some pass or spot much frequented by ON roiii the k, head, )(ly and L'l'pt the tHofthe or fleBh- isize, the ring of sixteen as well of the itH it re- ites in a •ciate by do not iloiibtful inior lor a are of rrowin<;- inoyt all ; size be- fornied, eet, and ke that liair and !;li much a deep e talonH le Atlan- pereeive ' Platte. 3f ten or Jt being ?. They ich they ntcd by IJi* TilK MJ880UiU. game, and sally out in a body against any animal vvh.h they think they can overpower, but on h Hhghtest alarm retreat to their burrows making a no,se exactly like that of a small dog ^ The second species is lower, shorter in t\w h.^s and lucker than the Atlantic wolf; their oUnn which IS not affected by the seasons, i. of every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish brow^ to a cream coloured uhite. They do not burrow "or do they bark, but howl, and they frequent U^ tTrbZ /'","'^'-"'' ^'^"'"^ -long the Ikirtso Captain (!|ark and one of the hunters n.et this evenn^. he largest brown bear we have seen. Z they f,red he did not attempt to attack, but fled with a most trenuMidous roar, and such was its extTaordinary tenacity of life, that although he bad hve balls passed through hln lungs and five other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to a sandbar, and survived twenty minutes^ He weighed between five and six hundml pounds at eas , and measured eight feet seven inches and a hdl from the nose to the extremity of the hind breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck one foot eleven inches round the middle of the oreleg, and his taloms, five on each foot, -vere four inches and three eighths in length. It differs nuch longer and more blunt; its tail shorter; its bair of a reddish or bay brown, longer, finer and more abundant; his liver, lungs, anS l.art mu arger even in proportion to his size, the heart particularly being equal to that of a laro-e ox- hiw maw ten times larger; his testicles pendant fWm the belly and in separate pouches four inches 277 1,1 ^^^ III *' J LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION apart : beHidee AhIi and flesh he feeds on roots, and ev ry kind of wild fruit. 1 he antelope are now lean and with young, so that they may readily be caught at this season, as they cross the rive» from S. W. to N. E. Moiifhiy 6'.— The morning being fair and the wind favourable, we set sail, and proceeded on very well the greater part of the day. The coun- try continues level, rich, and beautiful ; the low grounds wide and comparatively with the other parts of tlie Missouri, well supplied with wood. The appearances of coal, pumicestone, and burnt earth have ceased, though the salts of tartar t ■ vegetable salts continue on the banks and sand- bars, and sometimes in the little ravines at the base of the low hills. We passed three streams on the south ; the first at the distance of one mile and a half from our camp was about twenty-five yards wide, but although it contained some water in standing pools it discharges none; this we called Littledry creek, about eight miles beyond which is Bigdry creek, fifty yards wide, without any water; the third is six miles further, and has the bed of a large river two hundred yards wide, yet without a drop of water : like the other two this stream, which we called Bigdry river, con- tinues its width undiminished as far as we can discern. The banks are low, the channel formed of a fine brown sand, intermixed with a small proportion of little pebbles of various colours, and the country around flat and without trees. They had recently discharged their waters, and from their appearance and the nature of the country through which they pass, we concluded that they rose in the Block mountains, or in the level low plains which are probably between this place and the mountains ; that the country being nearly of 278 VI' THK MLSSOIMtr. samo rains the Rarae k Bpring I . ,..„ „„„„„ ttuoiit the samp time conHinre with .,.„„, to throw at once vast quanW t.es of water down these channels, which are tSen left .Iry dunng the siuamer. autnn.n, an.l winter when there is very little rain. We hml toX a Hjght sprinkling, hut it lasted a very short t'me il.o K "le .s in such plenty that it has become a mere amusement to snpply the party w^T pro v.s,o„s. We made twenty-Bve miles to a clump of trees on the north where we passed the night Tnesilj r.-Tho n.oiniug was pleasant and we IZT„ ^' "" ""'^ '"""■• 'I'here is much drift- wood floating, and what is contrary to our ex pectation although the river is rising, the water" IS somewhat clearer than usual. At eleven o^ol the wmd became so high that one of 1W boats was nearly sunk, and we were obhged to stop 1 1 eouih a''ho'''''7'^'^ °"' """ ^''•'"""'•J ™ the north' I,^ • ' "' f "'"'""''■ "■•°'«'«"S from the north, having made fifteen miles. On the north side of the river are the most beautiful 'Ls'^' have yet seen; they rise gradually from the low grounds on the water to the height of flftv Z sixty feet, and then e.xtend in an unbroken levii Z tar as the eye can reach: the hills on the south are more broken and higher, though at - me dk tance back the country becomes level ..nj ferti L. ihere are no more appearances of burnt earth, coal, or pumicestone, though that of salt still con- buT li;r " ^r'"''"" "^"^ *° "''veadvanced but httle since the twenty-eighth of tot month- ealf of ,'l """ "''"'""'"* "' "™'"- The bald: So; the ™ ""' "^ ^'"'' "''™'"^™' P^hably If , J «arcases of dead animals, for on the Whole Missouri we have seen neither the blul crested flsher, nor the fishing-hawks, to supply 279 "^ (II' h .r~ IMAGE EVALUATrON TEST TARGET (MT-3) // % ^ ^ C/.j. "k 1.0 ^mt 1125 = 1^ i££ 2.2 w 1^ ^ vii I.I Ui IM 125 II u 1.6 ~ 6" PhntnoranViin Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872.4503 # JV \\ 'i^ A^ ■6 I/a if l^-' LEWIS Ax\D CLAKKS EXPEDITJo.N them with their favourite food, and the water of the river is so turbid tliat no bird which feeds exclusively on fish can procure a subsistence. Wednesday 'ater has a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a tablespoon full of milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance induced us to call it Milk river. In the evening we had made twenty-seven miles, and encamped on the south. The country on that side consists in genera! of high broken hills, with much gray, black and brown granite scattered over the surface of the ground. At a little dis- tance I'rom the river there is no timber on either 280 ni" THK Mrssounr. side, the wood beins confined as below to the ...«r«,„ of the river; so that u„le«H the eontrarv Ih tZ the" V'T*'"""'' " '" '"""•™ ""•'- ood that he upland i8 periW^tly nake""— •-."•rounded bv buft. lo, e,K, common and bl,-,cktail„l deer, beaver" antelopes and wolves. He observ„l a place where an I„d,an had r.vently taken the hair off ,n , .tL opes sk,„, and son.e of the party thought hev lodges up M,lk nver, marks which we are bv no means desirous of realidng, as the In.lian are P^bably Assiniboins, and n.ight be very troull! wi^"^r f f-,"" '^''"' """ '' f-onrable wind and sad«l along very well. lietween four anJ hve ,mles we pass«l a large island in a deep bend to the north, an,l .. large sandbar at tT.e "l-l'er poM,t. .U fifteen ar a .p.arter nnl™ we reached the bed of a n, extraordinary river winch presents itself on tn. south : though as wide as the .Missouri it.,elf, that is about half a nit does not discharge a drop of water an.l con ains ■o h,r.g but a few standing pools. „„ ascen ling .t three m.les we found an eminence Iron, winch ve saw the di„K..tion of the channel, first so h southeast as far as we couldsee: it passes through a wide valley without tindier, and the surround .ng country consists of waving low hills inter- spersed with some handsonie level plains; the banks are abrupt and consist of a black or yellow- clay, or of a rich sandy loam, but though they do not nse more than »i.K or eight feet above the bed asi ' ^, ■ ,.Li-L_L.I|l i::i I ■ It LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXI'EDITION they exhibit no appearance of lieinft- overflowed : the bed is entirely composed of a li^^ht brown Hand, the particles of which like those of the Mis- souri are extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we I)a88ed before, this seemwl to have discharged its waters recently, but the watermark indicated that its greatest depth had not been more than two feet: this stream, if it deserve the name, we called iiigdry river. About a mile below is a large creek on the same side, which is also perfwtly dry: the mineral salts and quartz are in large quantities near this neighbourhood. The sand of the Mis- souri from its mouth to this place has been mixed with a substance which we had presumed to be a granulated talc, but which is most probably this quartz. The game is ow in great quantities, particularly the elk and buffalo, which last is so gentle that the men are oblige ?M f* If I' li tfi) onUo hliiirH. flir him'oikI 1m rutinil oM IliP liiliH MM w«»ll JIM (iu> low ^toiiii.Ih. niMl in ||m> millicM wliicli tM»UH<.|o\vn iVoin I he IijIIm : il Ij^m in i\ ,tum« nl'two or (lin«o iiirli(«M in ilrptli, mihI in/i.v li(> Hwrpl tip Willi M rrnlluM- in hiruv <|iiniiti(irH. TIumt Im no KuiKvr Mii.v «ip|t. lii^li hillH o\\ (ln> north mIiIc nhoiil I linn' milcM Iroiii llii< rivor, wlu)H«- (opH wcHMMivoroii Willi Ihopiirli pine. Hmh iHllu'llrMl pint«n on llir ,MiHH»>nri. niiil i( Ih lilv(> Hull or Nir^inin. rxc(>p| Hint tln> Icmvcm nn» Hoiii<>wluit longer; nnioiiK- Hiin pinr Im hImo n. tlNVMi-rrcMlnr. HoinrlinirH l»rt ween tlin'r or lour llM>t. Iiiuli. I)nl K'«*nornIly Hpiv/idiuM- i iimlrr hUU\ Tho fniit twul huwW n'H««nil»l(> Hioh(> ot th(> romnion ivd rcdnr, Inil tho IcmI'Ih liner nnit nioro th'Iicnl*'. Tlu' lopH of th(> hillH wlirrc Hichc pInntH MTow hnvon Hoil «piil(Mlili;>r(«nt, from Hint jiihI do- Ncrilx'd. Iln> liMHiM of il in nHiinlly yrllow or while vln.v. nnd I ho ^•cnornl Mppcnniiu-c lij^hl coloiirrd, Hnnd.v. nnd Iwirron. Honu* Hcnlh'rinK- Infln of Hcdj^o iH'inM* nlnioHl IIh onl.v h(>rlwi|4v. AlionI live in Hie afl«M-nooii on(> of our nitn who Iwid Immmi Mllliclcd with l)il(«M. nnd Hnlli«r(>d lo wnlk (hi Hliorc. (•nni(> niniiin^- h) ihc honlH willi loud vrU^n iwul vwvy Hvniploiii of l(>rror n\ul diHln-sH: for Honir lini(> nfi«>r w«> had it\kv\\ hitn on honrd ln> wnH h(» ninch «)ut of bnv'ilh s\H lo Ik* uiuihlo lo dcHcrihr Hie cniiHC of luHnnxicl.v. ImiMic at Icn^-lh lohl iin Ihal about, a mile and a half below he had hIioI a, brown bear whifh inini(>dial('ly turiic«l ami waH in cIohc pur- suit of hin:; but tho boar Immu^- badly wonndod oould not ovorlako him. t'aplain LowIh with Hovon mou immodiatoly wont in ho/mvIi of him, and having found hiw track followed hiiii l)y tho bhxxl 281 'ION > IlillM MM i«>H Wlliclj M< of (wo M\V('|l( tip wi'v \h no nirili or IiIrIi hilU du' liver |)ltH III IN •iiri, Mild llO l('MV<»M \H hIho m lour liM't. ' M vilM« it rcivcrH li<> iiiiijcr H(> ol I ho I ml iiioro HV piMlltH jllHl (!(»- or wliito 'oloiirrd, ol'Hrdj^o vc ill Mio Mliiiclcd re. (•Miii(> id ("vcrj iii<< lime Ko miK'li he CMiiHc il nboiit wti bear one piir- /<)iiiid<>(j iH with im, Mild X' blood I'l' 'riiK MiMMunm, lor M iiiilr. Miiil round hi Im'iihI ni roiinwilrd in Honii' I hick nvood. nndHhol him wllh IwoIimIIh (hioMLrl Ihi' Hhill. Tlioii^l killed M fi'W IJMVM /loo. I KM • MoniewliMl HiiiMller Himp tinil Uo. ne WMH M moiiHtroiiH nnimnl "lid n moHl lerril.le eiieni.v : our ninn li/id nhot hlni Mirrni^rh III., renire ol' I he Inn^H. yef, he hnd pur n rehirned nm-e, nnd wilh Imh le e/irlh Hiied him CiirioiiHly I'or li/ilr n i„i|,.. ||„ more llniii I wire Unit iJiHl l/iloiiM hnd prepnred hiniHeH n Ixd in II I wo leel deep nnd live lee|, | Ml ive when Ihev ioiind him, whiel on^. nnd w Mhnrp projecli.ni .,1' I he ci-nln- //f ihi. Ironl/il bone, which in /iIh(» lhic|<. Oir /•! iiieiil, w/iH on Mie hoiiIIi /iI, Ihe/liHt ie/i»np- iiiileH from Ih/il, of jnHl, iii>r|,f ; ||„. f| of I he be/ir w/mv /i, I /MM'/' olHixl/'en e«««' /Old Hkin the oil /inioiinlcd lo eiejii ir/iH H'/iv,v biird/ii for two mi-ri, /ind Slim In V, I I'll,.- Tl IRlH «:/illoiiH. le we/ither bein^ cle/ir /i,nd o r/ilm, we hi-I, (hiI, e/irl.y. Wil hln /i, mile w/- c/inie I n Hin/ill creek, /ibo„|, |,w«>nl,y y/irdH wide, /-m/ztyin^ ilweir on llie H«»nlh. A I e|ev/-n nnd Ihree (pi/irler milcH we re/iehed /i, poini, ♦.(' woodbind on M Honlh, o|)pf»Hit,e l,o which \h /i cn-ek of |,l width /IH the biHt, but wilh lif lie w/Uer, whici w M- H/ifn/' I we nilled I'ine creek. At eij^hteen /inri tl milcH w(! c/une to on the noiith oppowito'to the iree rpj/irier >w-. 2H w l I I! lii LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXl'EDlTIOiN lower point of a willow iHland, Hitimted in u dtt'p bend of the river to the HoiitheaHt: here we re- mained diirln^r tlie day, the wind having' risen at twelve 8o hi^h that we could not proceed: it con- tinued to blow violently all ni^rht, with occaHional eprinklin^^Hofrain from mniHet till midnight. On both HideH of the river the country Ih rou^h and broken, the low ^roundn becoming narrower; the topH of the hillH on tlie north exhibitw Home scat- tered pine and cedar, on the south the june has not yet commenced, thouj^^h there is some cedar on the sides of the hills and in the little ravines. The chokecherry, the wild hyssop, sage, fleshy-leafed thorn, and particularly the aromatic herb on which the anteloi)e and hare feed, are to be found on the plains and hills, ^^he soil of the hills has now altered its texture considerably: their bases, like that of the river plains, is as usual a rich, black loam, while from the middle to the summits they are composed of a light brown-coloured earth, poor and sterile, and intermixed with a coarse white sand. Monday, IStli.—The wind was so strong that we could not proceed till a out one o'clock, when we had to encounter a current rather stronger than usual. In the course of a mile and a half we passed two small creeks on the south, one of eighteen the othtr of thirty yards width, but neither of them containing any water, and en- camped on the south at a point of woodland, having made only seven miles. The country is much the same as yesterday, with little timber in the low grounds, and a small quantity of pine and cedar on the northern hills. The river however continues to grow clearer, and this as well as the increased rapidity induces us to hope for some change of country. The game is as usual so abun- 280 a * UP THE MLSSOUUJ, dant that wo can get without ditficultv all that IH necL'HHary. Tuosilny, Uth.-Th^rii was Borne fog on the river thiH morninj,^ which m a very rare occur- rence. At the (liHtance of a mile and a half we re^Mjhed an iHla,iak('iiiii^ the iiKuiHtcr cmcIi Hhot H(>(>iiu>(l (Mil.v t«» (linrt him lowanlH (h(> iinnt(«r. till a( InHt he purHUcd two «»! tlicm ho cioHi'ly. that they threw UHido their ^uuh and IMMiehen. and jumped down a perpendieidar hank of twenty leet into tlie river; the hear Hpnin^ alter them, and wan within a few leet ol the hindmoHt, when oneol'the JMinterH (,n hiiore HJiot him in th(> head and linally killed him: they dra^^^cd him to the Hhore. and found that ei^ht hallH had pawHcd throu|::h him iti ditlerent direetioJiH; the hear waH ohl and the meat toujj:h, ho that they took the Hkin only, and rejoined uh ateanip, where we hud heen an mueh terrilied hy an aecident of a different kind. ThiH wan the narrow ene/ipo of one of'our canoes eontainiuK' all (uir papers, inHtrnmentH, medieine, and almont every article indiKpensahle for the succeHH of our ent« rprine. 'I'he canoe hein^j under sail, a Hu«hlen wpi/dl of vind ntruck her ohli(piely, and turned lier conHidera!)ly. 'fhe man at the helm, who wan unluckily the worst Hteers- nian of the i)arty, hecanie alarmed, and instead of putting- her hefore the wind luffed lier up in*^o it. The wind was so hi^h that it forced the hracy of the s(piaresail out of tlie hand of the man who was attendin;*- it, and instaiitly npset the canoe, which would have heen turned hottom iii)wards but for the resistance made hy the awning. Such was the confusion on l)oard, and the waves ran BO hio-h, that it was lialf a minute hefore she riyjhted, and tl:en nearly full of water, hut hy haling out she was kejjt from sinking until they rowed ashore: besides the loss of the liv(>8 of three men who not being able to sAvim would probably have perished, we should have been deprived of nearly every thing ncc.'ssary for our purposes, at 2SH \n* TUK MIHSOUUI. a (ViHUiim^ of IhH,vv(hui tw.. and throo thousand mih'N Crotn any phu-« wlifre we could Hiipniy tho de/ici<'ncy. Wrtlnrsil.'iy 7.7.— Ah Hoon aH a Hli^lit Hhower oC mill had paHHcd, vve Hpivad out thi- artich«H to dry; hut the wmthor wan ho damp and cloudy that th.y (hTlvcd ntth) honcnt fi-om cxpoHurc |)ur huntci-H procured uh doer, l,uttah>, and beaver. Thuvs,hv /^;.-The mornin/r wan fair and we were enabled to dry and rep/ick our ntoren- the h)HH we HUKtained 1h chierty in the niedicincH, many iirticieH of which are completely Hpoiled, and otIierH couHiderably injured. At four o'clock we embarked, and after nuikiuK Heven milen encampefl on the north near Home wood: tlie country on both Hid(.H iH broken, the low ^^roundn narrower «• . with IcHH timber, thou^'h there are Home Hcnt- n\ pine and cedar on the nteep decliviticH of the , which are now hi;u:her than UHual. A white ore the coat of one of the men which he had .1 rihore; and two of the party wounded a iu,., panther who waw leuHtin^^ on a deer. We cau^^l^t Home lean antelopr'H an tlM'y were Hwini- niing the river, and killed two buffalo. Fi'Khiy 77.— We Het out enrly and prof^eederl on very well; the bankn bein^^ firm and the nhore bold we were enabled to UHe the towline, which whenever the bankw will permit it, in the Hafest and moHt expeditiouH mode of aHcendin^^ the river except under a Hail with a nteady breeze. At the diHtance of ten and a half miles we came to the mouth of a Hmall creek on the Houth, below which the hillH ai)proach the river, and continue near it during the day: three mileH further iH a large creek on the north, and again nix and three quarter miles beyond it, another large creek to the south Vol. 1.— I'J 28D ' % Y If fr» •"•■■ *!■ '. ^ IJ Ml m n ;' E IJOWIS AM) (ILAHXS KXI'KDfTION wliw'h roiitniri n hhuiII (ii.nutitv' (irnmiiiii^ 'v/iter of n hnickiHli (jiHt*-. TUv Innt wo cjillrd UntMc- Himki' cn-ck Croin our Hrrin^^ Hint nnimal uviir it. Altlion^h no jiiulicr cmm he (>i»H«'rv«'(l on it from the MiHHouri, it thn'iwM out .nr^t^ (pumtiticH of - tween two and three hnndred yards in width, with nn nneommonly bir^-e proportion of ^-ravel; but the sandbars, and low jioints eoveri'd with willowH have almost eniirely disaijpeared : the tind)er on the river eonsists of seareely any thinj^ more than a. few seattered eotton wood trees. The Haline incrustations alonj^- the baidH of I'CH (>(' coal itiniH-d on nl on Mio iiiN'H. 'I'lio Iiij4li, will, chmI with ;»otIi HJdi'K iiicntioiicd rich h III, I niid (illy o hard hh i^h ill tact to be Hccii i \h much than hc- in width, of ^Tavcl; iTi'd with a red: the any thin^ focH. The d the foot ma I '^1^ The [illal(> are ayH ago: d one of le middle iix inches and sides, \vn spots s neck t6 ■ spots of iJi .IK Missoiiur. lU^H,unccolonr.^ Htuta. there are one h.iiMlnd /ind Hcventv-Hlx tmitn on the hclly. and seventeen on the ta I \;f'-- ^''-V'-^ '•''•- -<-"r ^.nn /tortitled ""'"'" <';"np which /ippcared to have bccnnrcntl.^ 7;r"''"^"'^^''^«. ^veprcHu, I. nindchy ,,„„,; of M.nnctanrH who w.M,t in war hint March ';"t" at ni«ht we wen- rouncd l,> the Her^^ant <>< th.. Muard II. coiiHeqncnce or a (ire which had co.mi.nnicate.-The last night was disagnn^ably cold; and m the morning there was a very heavv fog which obscured the river so much as to pre. vent our seeing the way. This is the first fog of any degree of thickness which we have experi- eneed : there was also last evening a fall of dew the second which we have seen since entering this extensive open country. About eight o'clock the fog dispersed, and we r' ocee.^ed w.fh the aid of the towline: the island near -vhich we were en- camped, was three quarters of a mile in length 291 ' >!*■. -"-■■■ III M r> LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION The country resembles that of yesterday, high hills closely bordering the river. In the afternoon the river became crooked, and contained more saw- yers or floating timber than we have seen in the same tpace since leaving the Platte. Our game consisted of deer, beaver, and elk : we also killed a brown bear, who, although shot through the heart, ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter of a mile before he fell. At twenty-one miles is a wil- low island half a mile in length, on the north side, a quarter of a mile beyond which is a shoal of rapid water under a blufl': the water continued very strong for some distance beyond it : at half a mile we came to a sandbar on the north, from which to our place of encampment was another half mile, making in all twenty-two and a quarter miles. The saline substances which we have men- tioned continue to appear ; and the men are much afflicted with sore eyes and imposthumes. Monday 20.— As usual we set out early, and the banks being convenient for that purpose, we used the towline: the river is narrow and crooked, the water rapid, and the country much like that of yesterday : at the distance of two and a quarter miles we passed a large creek with but little water, to which we gave the name of Blowingfly creek, from the quantity of those insects found in its neighbourhood. They are extremely trouble- some, infesting our meat whilst cooking and at our meals. After making seven miles we reached by eleven o'clock the mouth of a large river on the south, and encamped for the day at the upper point of its junction with the Missouri. This stream which we suppose to be that called by the Minnetarees the Muscleshell river, empties into the Missouri two thousand two hundred and seventy miles above the mouth of the latter river, and in 292 ITION J, high hills ternoon the more saw- seen in the Our game also killed hrough the uarter of a les is a wil- north side, a shoal of ' continued b : at half a lorth, from as another 1 a quarter ! have men- 1 are much nes. ly, and the e, we used 'ooked, the ke that of a quarter but little Blowingfly s found in y trouble- ig and at tve reached ver on the the upper >uri. This led by the ?s into the id seventy ^er, and in UP THE MISSOURI. latitude 47^ 24' 6 north u • and ten yards wide anTn / '' ''"' ^""^^^ than strea'ms of t^t^i^us XT in T ^'"''' nation byTnoes for .! ^"^7"-^^^^^ of navi- bed is chieflTfornti or '^''^"'^ ^^«*^"«^-' ^^^ With an oj:.^Zl^ZTr' ^^^^^^' banks abrupt and neaHrt'elve f^U^ T^' '''' they are secure fron. beCTverfl^ed ^^^^^ '" *'^* i« of a greenish vellow casf 3,! T '^''*^^ parent than thif n7 T\T "^^ '"^^^ ^^ans- though cleaL It ,; ttm^^ "-"^^ ^*-^^' bue and a portion of itJl ^ '"' '^^ ""'"'^^ the point ofVunctionH ""'"*' '^P^*"«'*^ to « and tCiZrerar/^^T" ''^^^^"" ^« Width, the bed prineta ; j 'Za^ZT'' ^" waters a liWh broZ "\'=°'"'''«' *" *'»« Plar(M'(H'(l«Hl principally by tho tovvline. We pawHtMl Windy inland which in about three :in to lone the feathern of the win^n, and are unable to fly. We saw five bears, one of which we wounded, but in swimming- from us across the river, he became entan^-led in some driftwood and sank. We formed our camp on the north opposite to a hill and a i)oint of wood in a bend to the south, having- made twenty-seven miles. Fridny .24.— The water in the kettles froze one eighth of an inch during the night; the ice appears along the margin of the river, and the cotton- wood trees which have lost nearly all their leaves by the frost, are putting forth other buds. We proceeded with the line principally till about nine o'clock, when a fine breeze sprung up from the S. E. and enabled us to sail very well, notwith- 208 TIP TFri: Mfssourii. Htandin^r tho mj)i(Iity of the current. At ono mile and a IiaUlH a l/ir^re (.,.(.ok thirty yardH vvid<., ar.d containinvr Home water which it emptieH on the north Hide, over a ^^ravelly bed, int«>rmixed with Homentone. A man wlu, waH nent up to exr)lore the country returned in tlie evenin^^ after having Koue ten mileH direetly towardn tlie rid^^e ofmoun- taiuH to tlie north, whieh in the Houree oftluHan well aH of Teapot ereek. The air of thene hi^.h- landH in ho i)ure, that ohjectH ai)pear mueh nearer than they really are, ho that although our man went ten milen without thinkin^r himnelf by any nieanH hair way to the mountaiuH, they do not fVom the river ai)pear more than fifteen miieH diHtant; thin ntream we called Northmountain creek. 1\vo and a half milew hi^rh,.r Ih a ereek on the Houth which iH fifteen yanln wide, but with- out any water, and to whieh we ^-ave the name of Littledo^^ creek, from a villain, of' burrowin^^ squirrelH opponite to itn entrance, that bein^r the name given by tlu^ French waternuMi to thone animalH. Three milcH from tluH a nmall creek entevH on the north, five beyond which in an inland a (piarter of a mile in length, and two milcH further a email iiver: this fallH in on the Houth, is forty yards wide, and dinchargcH a hand- some stream of water ; its bed rocky with gravel and sand, and the banks high : we called it South- mountain creek, as from its direction it seemed to rise in a range of mountains about fifty or sixty miles to the S. W. of its entrance. The low grounds are narrow and without timber- the country high and broken; a large portion of black rock, and brown sandy rock appears in the face of the hills, the tops of which are covered with scat- tered pine, spruce and dwarf cede.r: the soil la generally poor, sandy near the tops of the hills 299 tm I i '1 i III LEWIS AND CLAIIK'S FAPEDTTION and nowhere producin|>^ much gruHH, the low grounds being covered with little els, Jmn the hjHHop, or southern wood, and the i)uli)y-leafed thorn, (lame is more scarce, particularly beaver, of which we have seen but few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity of which seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber. At twenty-four and a half miles we retwihed a point of woodland on the south, where we ob- served that the trees had no leaves, and encamped for the night. The high country through which we have passed for some days, and where we now are, we suppose to be a continuation of what the French traders called the Cote Noire or Jilack hills. The country thus denominated consists of high broken irregular hills and short chains of mountains, sometimes one hundred and twenty miles in width, sometimes narrower, but always much higher than the country on either side. They commence about the head of the Kanzas, where they diverge; the first ridge going west- ward, along the northern shore of the Arkansaw; the second approaxjhes the Kock mountains obliquely in a course a little to the W. of N. W. and after passing the ] Matte above its forks, and intersecting the Yellowstone, near the Jiigbend, crosses the Missouri at this place, and probably swell the country as far as the Saskashawan, though as they are represented much smaller here than to the south, they may not reach that river. Snturflny, 25th.— Two canoes wliich were left behind yesterday to bring on the game, did not join us till eight o'clock this morning, when we set out with the towline, the use of which the banks permitted. The wind was, however, ahead, the current strong, particularly round the points against which it happened to set, and the gullies 300 UP THE MISSOURL Itone*tL''"" '"''"^; '-«»^^»»t down quantities of rtr'r rr''^''*''^ ^^^^ the nver, forming, bar- very d^ffieuTt ^ '^ "''\^'^'* ^"""^' -»»^'' ^' -- very difficult to puHH. At the dintance of two and tree quarter milen we paHHed a Hn.all inland in a deep bend on the south, and on the same side a wTter rr^^/^'^'V'^'^' '"* ^^^*^ no running water. Ibout a mile further is an island between .vvo and three miles in length, separated from the iiorthern shore by a narrow channel, in which is a Sana island at the distance of half a mile from Its lower extremity. To this large island we gave the name of Teapot island; two miles above which south " r.l "" ""!' ^r^'' '"^ '^'""^''^ "" the ,«bm ' , "" """'^ ^ '»alf miles is another small IS nd, and one mile beyond it a second three quarters of a mile in length, on the north side. In the middle of the river two miles above this is an island with no timber, and of the same extent as this last. The country on em.h side is high broken, and rocky; the rock being either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin sli atum of miestone, or else a hard black rugged granite both usually in horizontal stratas, and the sand^ rock overlaying the other. Salts and quartz as well as some coal and pumicestone still appear- the bars of the river are composed principally of gravel; the river low grounds are narrow, and afford scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the hills. The buffalo have now become scarce: we saw a polecat this evening, which was the first for several days: in the course of the day we also saw several herds of the big-horned ani- mals among the steep cliffs on the north, and killed several of them. At the distance of eighteen miles we encamped on the south, and the next morning, 801 M ' LIOWIS AND (JLAKK'H KXPMDITION' Suwhi,\\ L'dth, I »n >(•('('« I »'j:> <»!' tin- hoHt banliH. 'IMuTc arc now Hran-rly any low j^roiiiidH on th(» rivrr, the ImIIh bcinjjf i^li and in many piacvH pn'HHin^ on hoti; HidcH to tli" vrr^fc of the water. The black rock Iuih pvcn plncc to a very Hoft Ha/ulHtonc, which HccniH to be waHhed away iJiHt by the river, and belny; thrown into the ri\ r renderH itH navi^ntion more diflicnit than it wmk ycHtenbiy : nbove tluH HandHtone, and townnlH the HnmmitH of the hillH, a hnrd freestone of a yellow- iHh brown colonr hIiowh itnelf in Hev(>rMl Htnitan of nnecpial thickncHH, frecpientiy overbiid or incrnHted by a thin Htratnm t)!" limcHtone, which HceniH to be formed of concreted Hhelln. At ei^^ht nnd acpiarter milcH we came to the mouth of a creek on the north, thirty yards wide, with Kome running water and a rocky bed: we called it Windsor creek, after one of the i)arty. I'onr nnd three- quarter miles beyond this we came to another creek in a bend to the north, which is twenty yards wide, with a handsome little stream of water: there is however no timber on oitlier side of the river excei)t a lew pines on the hills. Hero we saw ior the first time since we left the Man- dans several soft shelled turtles, though this may be owini": rather to the season of the year than to any scarcity of the animal. It was here that after ascending the hig-hest summits of the hills on the north side of the river, that captain f.ewis first caught a distant view of the Hock mountains, the object of all our hopes, and the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the river and at no great distance from it, the mountains followed its course: above these, at the distance of fifty miles from us, au irregular range of mountains spread ii02 l.V liour by iiMToly in r tlu' IjoHt I ill iiuiiiy r^t' (»(' tln» to a wry lit'd away i> Mh» riv.T an it WMK w/ihIh tlu* la yellow- H(ra(aH of ■ incniHtcd ciiiH to be 1 ft(iuartor vk on tlio i rnimiii«j . WindHor lid tlirco- > another Ih twenty d, ■„ th.. lirHt w,. Imv,. 1,..,.P,, „;„,„ ,,avi, K he Man.t,mH. W,. ,.,„„|„v„l the hno g, rnl y w K the «,.,lit.,n of.he ,.„„. „t the ri^pleH ^ndV.^ some than th.me we |,«„„„| ye»tercl,iy. The water i» very raphl r.,„,„. thene ,..,int-, and w^ a™ Homet„„e„ „,„i,.„ u, „t,.r the ea„oe» through Z ot ... .harp roekH ri„i„«. a (e,,- inehe, ajve the H rfaee of ...e water, „n,l „„ near t„ e,«;h other that ,1 our roiies sive way the ibree of the cur rent driven the „ideB „f the eanoe nRainHt them ah mmle of elk.«k„., an.I n.ueh worn ami rotted by exposure to the weather: several tiraeH tht^ ««ve way, bnt fortunately always in places whe4 there wa« room for the eanoe to tnm without was with manite risk and labour that we passed these points An Indian pole for building fl" down the river, and was worn at one end Jt dragged along the ground in travelling- several rent'wh f " r'"" "'"" '"•""«" '^°-" "Vthe c r' rent, whieh md.eate that the Indians are prr.bablv at no great distance a»ove us, and judging from a football whieh resembles those used by the Wn netaroes near the Mandans, we conjecture that vZ^ rt " ''"" """^ *'""«'*'' ^« of f-t de 1 rame. Ihe appearance of the river and the sur- rounding country continued as usual, till towards evening, at about fifteen miles, we reached a"Z vol. 1. — '2(\ u/k- * 30i li Ut t » LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION creek on the north thirty-five yards wide, dis- charging some Avater, and named after one of our men Thompson's creek. Here the country as- sumed a totally different aspect; the hills retired on both sides from the river which now spreads to more than three times its former size, and is filled with a number of small handsome islands covered with cottonwood. The low grounds on the river are again wide, fertile, and enriched with trees; those on the north are particularly wide, the hills being comparatively low and opening into tiiree large vallies, which extend themselves for a considerable distance towards the north: these appearances of vegetation are delightful after the dreary hills over which we . :ve passed, and we have now to congratulate ourselves at having escaped from the last n'dges of the Tilack mountains. On leaving Thomi)Kon's creek «vwe passed two small islands, and at twenty-three miles distance encamped among some timber on the north, opposite to a small creek, which we named Bull creek. The bighorn is in great quanti- ties, and must bring forth their young at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One of the party saw a large bear also, but being at a distance from the river, and having no timber to conceal him, he would not venture to fire. Weihiesdiiy, i.^9.— Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A buflalo swam over from the opposite side and to the spot where lay one of our canoes, over which he clambered to the shore; then taking fright he ran full speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within eigh- teen inches of the heads of some of the men, before the sentinel could make him change his course; still more alarmed he ran down between four fires and within a few inches of the heads of a second yo(i UP THE MISSOUKI. neii, before him. He suddenly turLrttil "°* '"°P1«' out Of.,,. ,„ aC™:t :,i:;f 1,-^ -- Pened, we h:^;'- r^^J^'tV''''' '''''' '■«"- injury than the dmJH '"^"""S «" ™ore in the canoe whir?hebu«^r ^""^ """=" ^™™ In the mornin/eari' we left :„?'""• ceeded an usual by the c^rd « ■""■ *"'' i"-"- and two Handbars and !f;^ ,"■ ''"''''' •"> '"'^d a half miles teeame to *; T"""^ "''^^ ""O discharges itself :rthe°o„t:t.r,"r "'""'' cended to the distan™. of ■, "''""'' *" as- called it JumuT^Tr f '" "'"^ "^ '"'"■^ ^« tains iu about the »«- , '"' '" ""* ^'«'' ™o«n- aud near tt vlrs ^^r t^'™^" oue hundred yards w,d„ V * entrance is other, the waZ U f/yi^riCt '"" *° *'" yards, and in greater aZur, T """nty-Ave Mnscleshell river and thn L ^ ^'*'' "''" "^ *<>« navigable, thJ^Cg no 1""" ^P'" '^'inally bed, whichiscompo SentS^lvof"' ™f ' '" *"« with some sand • th. ™t>fely of gravel and mud Which we have y^ sru'^Lrth" f ^""^ *'"'" ""^ far as we could diJe'C'wWer and^T ''™""'"^' "^ than those of tl,» m- • '"°'"*' woody Observe,, s^n^^ti^I^S ^JX" "« ::srof te^ihrh^-- - --^^^^^^^^^^ red willow There w-.'"'™'''''"'' """• '^ «"'« o07 ii ■ ■ j; ipi ■I Ii .'I Vlp: LKWIS AN!) CLAUKS FAPEDITION about twelve or fift(>on days, and on the other Hide of the MiHHouri a hir^e eneampnient, ap- parently made by the Haine nation. On examining Home nioeeawinH which we tbunlj i!! hi- ijgi III i dram, and such waH the effect of long abstinence from HpirituouH UquorH, that from the Hmall quan- tity of half a gill of rum, several of the men were considerably affected by it, and all very much ex- hilarated. Our game to-day consisted of an elk and two beaver. Thursday, HO.— The rain which commenced last evening continued with little intermission till eleven this morning, when the high wind which accompanied it having abated, we set out. More rain has now fallen than we have had since the 1st of September last, and many circumstances indicate our approach to a climate differing con- siderably from that of the country through which we have been passing : the air of the open country is astonishingly dry and pure. Observing that the case of our sextant, thougli perfectly seasoned, shrank and the joints opened, we tried several experiments, by which it appeared that a table- spoonful of water exposed in a saucer to the air would evaporate in thirty-six hours, when the mercury did not stand higher than the temperate point at the greatest heat of the day. The river, notwithstanding the rain, is much clearer than it was a few days past ; but we ad v^ance with great labour and difficulty; the rapid current, the ripples and rocky points rendering the iiavigation more embarrassing than even that of yesterday, in addi- tion to which the banks are now so slippery after the rain, that the men who draw the canoes can scarcely walk, and the earth and stone constantly falling down the high bluffs r ke it dangerous to pass under them ; still however we are obliged to make use of the cord, as the wind is strong ahead, the current too rapid for oars, and too deep for the pole. In this way we passed at the distance of five and a half miles a small rivulet in a bend 310 )ITION g abstinence Hmall quan- he men were ?ry much ex- ed of an elk imenced last mission till wind which : out. More id since the rcumstances lifferinj? con- rough which pen country ►^"ing that the [y seasoned, :ried several hat a table- ir to the air 3, when the le temperate , The river, earer than it e with great t, the ripples Ration more day, inaddi- lippery after e canoes can e constantly angerous to e obliged to brong ahead, too deep for the distance let in a bend TJI» THF] MrSSOlIliJ. on the north, two n.iIo„ further nn island on f h. «ame side, half a mile beyond wl ich caml .-ove Of trees at the entrL.j!^';!^:'^:^Ji to the south, and encamped for the nigh on tl^ northern shore. The eight miles which we ma e to-day cost us much trouble. The air was coti and rendered more disagreeable by the rl .S fell m several slight showers in the course of the day; our cords too broke several times but for *r:f 'f -i*^-"t injury to the boats. O^al^- ng the hdls near the river, one of the party foud that there was snow mixed with the rain on t^ hej^'htH : a little ba.k of these the country Uome« perfectly level on both sides of the river."^ TrerHs tering Cottonwood, ash, box-alder, and willows itssfd "f "• '" '''' ^»-- «f the dly we about hve weeks smce, and from the several an a band of about one hundred lodges who were travelling slowly up the river. Although no part of the Missouri from the Minnetarees to th^p^ace Lt'lr:;'^^^"^"* -ttlements, y:: 'not parTies T f " !! *'""'""* '''''' of hunting parties. We know that the Minnetarees of the Mis ouri extend their excursions on the south sMe of the river, as high as the Yellowstone; and the as high as Porcupine river. All the odges be uTiedt f r ^^"' ''' ''^''y —^^ - PrS who r "'■ '" f'^ ^'-netarees of fort de FnUaj,3L^e proceeded in two periogues leaving the canoes to bring on the meat of two ail m LEWIS AND CLARK'S FA'PEDITION buffaloes killed last evening. Soon after we set off it began to rain, and though it ceased at noon, the weather continued cloudy during the rest of the day. The obstructions of yesterday still re- main and %tigue the men excessively: the banks are so slippery in some places and the mud so adhesive that they are unable to wear their moc- casins; onp fourth of the time they are obliged to be up to their armpits in the cold water, and sometimes walk for several yards over the sharp fragments of rocks which have fallen from the hills : all this added to the burden of dragging the heavy canoes is very painful, yet the men bear it with great patience and good humour. Once the ropeofoneoftheperiogues, the only one we had made of hemp, broke short, and the periogue swung and just touched a point of rock which almost overset her. At nine miles we came to a high wall of black rock rising from the water's edge on the south, above the cliffs of the river; this continued about a quarter of a mile, and was succeeded by a high open plain, till three miles further a second wall two hundred feet high rose on the same side. Three miles further a wall of the same kind about two hundred feet high and twelve in thickness, appeared to the north : these hills and river cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic appearance : they rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the water, to the height of between two and three hundred feet, and are formed of very white sand, tone, so soft as to yield readily to the impression of water, in the upper part of which lie imbedded two z)r three thin horizontal stratas of white freestone insensi- ble to the rain, and on the top is a df^-v .rich loam, which forms a gradually ascendin^^>^^?iin, from a mile to a mile and a half in exter . Vhen 312 v' 1 Iff TION fter we set 'd at noon, the rest of ay still re- the banks he mud so their moc- obliged to v^ater, and the sharp from the igging the uen bear it Once the ne we had B periogue ock which came to a de water's the river: , and was hree miles high rose a wall of high and rth: these aordinary ost places the height , and are Dft as to ir, in the z)r three le insensi- c'«"'^\.rich 3r .when UP THE MISSOURI, tt'e^'huS Tf'^^^'^y *- the height of about tftree hundred feet more. In trickling down the chffs, the water has worn the soft sandstone in o a housand grotesque figures, among which 4ith frltonfb^^i""^'^ '""^"^^ ^'^^'-^* -"^- of treestone buildmgs, with columns variouslv scuId- tared and supporting long and elegant gallerir while the parapets are adorned with statuary on elern7ruT"t ^'^^ ^^^^^^«^"* ^^^ ^-- o^ capitals e^t'' T""'' '""^' ^^*^ ^^^^^als and capitals entire, others mutilated and prostrate and some rising pyramidally over each'otherl i tlK.y terminate in a sharp point. These are varSl ofVesoir;'^^^^^^^^^^ *'^ customary appearani^ ot desolated magnificence: the illusion is increased by the number of martins, who have built The^ globular nests in the niches and hover over these columns; as in our country they are accustomed to frequent large stone structures. As weadvance there seems no end to the visionary enchantment which surrounds us. In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls, which s^m t ' productions of art, so regular is the wrkmin! snip, they rise perpendicularly from the river inTin^";H' i" *'' '"^'* "'^^^ ^"^^-'^ f-t> vary- ing m thickness from one to twelve feet beirl « broad at the top as below. Tl^"!^ Tbt . 7 """" ^^'"^'^ ^'' ^^^^' thick, and dur. able, and composed of a large portion of earth and 1". '"' ''"'"*'' "^*^ ^ «--» quantity of quai Th! ^^f^-^b'^ P-Portion of talc^r quartz. Ihese stones are almost in variablv regu- lar parallelipeds of unequal sizes in the wall but r"^..''?; ""' '^'^ ^^^->-rly in range ove ^.h o..«r hke bricks, each breaking and covering ;r 'f ""u ""^ ""^^^^ t'^^ «^ ^hich it rests- but though the perpendicular interstice be destroyed 313 ' it' '■I h:.i ii I ' m 'I ,h I LKWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION the horizontal one extendn entirely throu/i^h the whole work: the HtoneH too are proportioned to the thicknewH of the wall in whieli they are em- ployed, bein;,^ largent in the thickest wallH. The thinner walls are composed of a single depth of the paralleliped, while the thicker ones consist of two or more depths: these walls pass the river at several i)lfice8, rising from the water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs which they seem to penetrate; thence they cross in a straight line on either side of the river, the plains over which they tower to the height of from ten to seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the second range of hills: sometimes they run parallel in several ranges near to each other, sometimes intersect each other at right angles, and have the appearance of walls of ancient houses or gardens. The face of some of these river hills, is composed of very excellent freestone of a light yellowish brown colour, and amon^ the cliffs we found a spefiies of pine which we had not yet seen, and differing from the Virginia pitch-pine in having a shorter leaf, and a longer and more {tointed cone. The coal appears only in small quantities, as do the burnt earth and pumicestone: the mineral salts have abated. Among the animals are a great number of the bighorn, a few buffalo and elk, and some mule-deer, but none of the com- mon deer nor any antelopes. We saw l)ut could not procure a beautiful fox, of a colour varied with orange, yellow, white, and black, rather smaller than the common fox of this country, and i^'out the same size as the red fox of the United States. The river to-day has been from about one hun- dred and fifty to two hundred and fifty yards wide, with but little timber. At the distance of 314 if TION iroup^li the rtioned to y are cmu- r'HllH. The 3 depth of coiiHint of le river at edjye imieh y Heem to ht line on tiiieh they 'enty feet, 1 ranj^e of 'ral ranges ■ach other c of walls composed yellowish e found a seen, and having a tited cone, ies, as do e mineral als are a ffalo and the com- bat could ur varied k, rather ntry, and he United one hun- %y yards stance of TIP TIIR MrSSOTTIU. two miles and a half from the last stone wall ^ a stream on the north side, twenty-eight yards' in width, and with some running water. We en- camped just above its mouth, having made eigh- teen miles. * S^itui'dn^, June i.-The weather was cloudy with a few drops of rain. As we proceeded by the aid of our cord we found the river cliffs and bluffs not so high as yesterday, and the country more level. The timber too is in greater abundance on the river, though there is no wood on the high ground ; coal however appears in the bluffs The river is from two hundred to two hundred and hfty feet wide, the current more gentle, the water becoming still clearer vM fewer rocky points and shoa s than we met yesterday, though those which we did encounter were equally difficult to pass. Game is by no means in such plenty as be- low; all that we obtained were one bighorn, and a mule-deer, though we saw in the plains a quan- tity of buffalo, particularly near a small lake about eight miles from the river to the south Notwithstanding the wind was ahead all day w^ dragged the canoes along the distance of t went v- three miles. At fourteen and a quarter miles we came to a small island opposite a bend of the river to the north: two and a half miles to the upper point of a small island on the north • five miles to another island on the south side and op- posite to a bluff. In the next two miles we passed an island on the south, a second beyond it on the north, and refu^hed near a high bluff on the north a thir LP which we encamped. In the plains near the river a^e the chokecherry, yellow and red currant-bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which are now in bloom I rom the tops of the river hills, which are lower 315 t> ^ LKWIS AND CLAUK'S EXPEDITION than UHual, wo enjoyed a iMi^htM view of the rich fertile pluiuH on both nideH, in ninny plai-ea extending from the river elittH to ii ;.reat dintunce I rii by the y were no art of the ithiii ei^ht [!ainj)nient ige of high -pparently great dis- g we had ast night, I morning , and al- ' the cord ;wo days, ing. The , its tim- unds be- blufts on course of n, which B is very a collec- leathern Ay. The the day aule-deer cost us ni' Til 10 MISHOUUI. tho livoH of two of .>„r hunterH who wore together when he attacked M.en, ; one of then, nar^,w . OHcap. beinj, .aught, anhu.e. his con.panion can ^p HMd^ fortunately Hhot the anin.al through the At ..ix and a half miles we renchtnl an inland on Lir 1 ;'"'' ""' ""'' ^"^ '' quarter thence iH a timbered low ^.round on the south : and in the next two and thrcHMiuarter miles we pas^nl three «mall islands, and came to a dark bluff on the Houth: within the following mile are two small iHlands on the same side. At three and a quarter "ules we re^iehed tne lower part of a much larger along Its side, within two miles passed a smaller iHland, and half a mile above rem^hed the head of another. All these islands are small, and most.of them contain some timber. Three quarters of a mile beyond the last, and at the distam-e of eigh- teen miles from our encampment, we came to for the night in a handsome low Cottonwood plain on the south, where we remained for the purpose of making some celestial observations during the niglit, and of examining in the morning a large nver which comes in opposite to us. Accordingly at an early hour, MomJay, Sd, we crossed and fixed our camp in the pomt, formed by the junction of the river with the Missouri, it now became an interesting ques- tion which «f these two streams is what the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza or the Missouri, which they described as approaching very near to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the late oi the expedition depends; since if after ,as- ^ ai7 I I- 1 LEWIS AND (JLAIIK'H lOXPIJDITIon cenditi^ to tlw Hovky niountmns or beyond them, we Hliould find that the river we were following did not c-oine near the Cohiinhia, and be obli^rod to return, we nhouhl not only hme the travelling HeaHon, two niontliH of which had already elapHi'd, but probably diHliearten the men hc much an to induce them either to aban(b)n the enterprine, or yield uh a cold obedience inHtead of the warm and zealouH Hupport which they had hitherto afforded U8. We determined, therefore, to exami; e well be- fore we decidejl on our future courHe; and for this purpoHe deHpatched two canocH with three men up each of the Htreams with orderH to aecertain the width, depth, and nipidity of the current, ho as to jud^e of their comparative bodies of water. At the same time i)artieH were sent out by land to penetrate the country, and discover from the ris- ing ^'rounds, if possible, the distant l)earin^s of the two rivers; and all were directed to return towards evening. While they were ^^one we as- cended together the hi^rh ^rnninds in the fork of these two rivers, whence we had a very extensive prospect of the surrounding country: on every side it was spread into one vast plain covered with verdure, in which innumerable herds of buf- falo were roaming, attended by their en^^mies the wolves: some flocks of elk also were seen, and the solitary antelopes were scattered with their young over the face of the plain. To the south was a range of lofty mountains, which we supposed to be a continuation of the South mountain, stretch- ing themselves from southeast to northwest, and terminating abruptly about southwest from us. These were "partially covered with snow ; but at a great distance behind them was a more lofty ridge completely covered with snow, which seemed to follow the same direction as the first, reaching 318 11(1 them, [ollowin^ V obli^i'd ravelling ' elapHcd, cli aH to •I)riHt», or arm and aHonlwl ' well he- l for tluH L> men up 'tain the HO a8 to Iter. At hind to I the ris- rin^H of J return e we as- I fork of xtensive »n every covered s of buf- inies the and the ir young ; was a )08ed to streteh- BBt, and fom us. but at a ty ridge smed to 'eachiug UP Til 10 AflSSOtJiU. from west to the ....rth of northweHt. where their «nowy to„H were bh,uh.d with the hi. t dim^tum of the rivers .,u,dm,thon^^^^^ ex«.n„„„„„; the width ,.r „,„ „,.r 1,'": tw„ hun,ln..l yanU, that of th • m,t\ "I I'uiKlnnl ,111.1 w.v,.utv-tv„ TP. "'"■" narrower „,„> :!u' ^Z>tJ^\Z^ '."•'">"«" wh>t,„h l,r,nv„ c„h,„r, thiek,u.H„, a„,l urW,, . ,.' !"" '""'"'-"ily Hmract..ri«Kl the MiHHo,,,.;. *.""''» "«.".|H.«.Kl ,.,-„„,„e ^,™,,, ~'' e-Pally n„„l. The „„„th fork i» .!«.,; ,„ water„ are per,i.tly trannpareut : t curre, t L ra,.|d but the nurfu-e H,„...,th aa.l uanZr,, ,7 .t. be,l too ,» „„,„„o„e,l oC.-o,„„l and Hat «, u'oo 8toue» like tho»e of rlvera iH„ui„K Iron, a ,o tainouH country. The air and charae ter o l" north fork „o much resemble tho«e of t ,e Ililurf that aIn,o«l. a>I the party believe that to teth" true course to be purHued. We however olth!.,, i we have give,, „o decided opinion rin^t™";' th.nk otherwise, because, although this branch does g.ve the colour and character to the Mis ■ur,, yet these very circu,nsta„ees induce an op,.uo„ that it rises in and runs through aropen Pla.u country, »ineeif it came fron, tne ,nou",ta ne t on of tl,e country is improbable, it passed penetiate the Koeky mountains, but drew it« sources from the open country tovUrds the Ler and middle parts of the Saskashawan, in a di^e^ tion north of this place. What embarraas^ „« ai9 {.I ■ LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXTEDITION most is, that the Indians who appeared to be well acquainted with the seo^^raj)hy of the country, have not mentioned this northern river; for "the river which scolds at all others," as it is termed, must be according to their account one of the rivers which we have passed ; and if this north fork be the Missouri, why have they not desig- nated the south branch which they must also have passed, in order to reach the great falls which they mention on the Missouri? In the even- ing our parties returned, after ascending the rivers in canoes for some distance, then continuing on foot, just leaving themselves time to return by night. The north fork was less rapid, and there- fore afforded the easiest navigation : the shallow- est water of the north was five feet deep, that of the south six feet. At two and a half miles up the north fork is a small river coming in on the left or western side, sixty feet wide, with a bold cur- rent three feet in depth. The party by land had gone up the south fork in a straight line, some- what north of west for seven miles, where they discovered that this little river came within one hundred yards of the south fork, and on returning down it found it a handsome stream, with as much timber as either of the larger rivers, con- sisting of the narrow and wide-leafed Cottonwood, some birch and box-alder, and undergrowth of willows, 1 sebushes, and currants : they also saw on this river a great number of elk and some beaver. All these accounts were however very far from deciding the important question of our future route, and we therefore determined each of us to ascend one of the rivers during a day and a half's march, or farther if necessary, for our satisfaction. Our hunters killed two buffalo, six elk, and four 320 m i I T )ITION d to be well he country, er; for "the it is termed, one of the ' this north ' not desig- miist also great falls In the even- ig the rivers itinning on ) return by !, and there- he shallow- ecp, that of niles up the on the left a bold cur- y land had line, some- where they within one 1 returning a, with as ivers, con- •ttonwood, growth of y also saw and some y far from our future ih of us to nd a half's Ltisfaction. , and four UP THE MISSOURI. : "ver bluHs; the yellow anrt red ciirranta «™ not yet ripe; the gooseberry is beirinnirtn and the wild rose which now covernfl thrr"' grounds near the rivers is i„ fulVoir Z miunK ott in the appearance of the men wlin „r>t havn,g heen able to wear moccasi. s hid 1 eir feet much bruised and n.angled in passing over «e stones and rough ground. They are howevir per rrSr '- - "■«"--'■«' -- inJcaSktew"-""!* '"" ^'""^ """ this mom- ent trri^^rriZn^rwirwrsl: men crossed the north fork near the camp below a smal ,^and from which he took a conrs 7 eminL: Here" " "f """^^ *" '' commanding enimence. Here we observed that the North mountain, changing its direction ..arallel to the M.ssour , turned towards the north and term nated abruptly at the distance of abo" t tMrtv m.les the point of termination bearing !n 48 f Ihe .^outh mountain too diverges to the south and ternunates abruptly, its extremity bearing b. 8 \V distant about twenty miles : to the S of, and retreating from this extremity, is a s^a rate mountain at the distance ofthir^flvtS n a direction S. aS' W. which from its re^n, blance to the roof of a barn, we called the ite "" monntain. The north fork, which is now o, «™ left, makes a considerable bend to the northwes ^n milef ■""'"'" I"""''''' ' ^"^^ of hills Znt ten miles long, and bearing from this apot K m.i 1^ LIOWIS AND (.U.AKK\S KXLMODITION 00" W. riHiH parallel with it: north of this raiiffo of hilJH JH an Hovatod point of the riWr bluff on its south Hide, bearin^r x. 72 w. abcmt twelve mi' >8 from us; towards tliiw h(> direct(Ml his course ftorosH a hJK-h, level, dry open plain; which in fiuit enibraceH the whole country to the foot of the nu)untainH. ^fhe noil in dark, rich, and fertile, yet the grass by no means so luxuriant as mi^Hit liave been expwted, lor it is Hhort and scarcely more than sufficient to cover the ground. ^J^here are vast quantities of prickly pears, and myriads of grasshopperH, which afford food for a species of curlew which is in great nund)ers in the plain. Jle then proceeded up the river to the i)()int of obser- vation they had fixed on; from M'hich he went Uvo miles N. 15 W. to a bluff i)oint on the north Bide of the river: thence his course was N. HO VV. for two miles to the entrance of a large creek on the south. The i)art of the river along whicii he passed is from forty to sixty yards wide, the current strong, the water deej) and turbid, the banks falling in, the salts, coal and mineral ap- pearances are as usual, and in every resi)ect, ex- cept as to size, this river resembles the Missouri. The low grounds are narrow but well supi)lied with wood: the bluffs are principally of dark brown yellowy and some whiteday with freestone in some places. 1-^rom this point the river bore N. 20 E. to a bluff on the south, at the distance of twelve miles: towards this he directed liis course, ascending the hills which are about two hundred feet high, and passing through plains for three miles, till he found the dry ravines so steep and numerous that he resolved to return to the river and follow its banks. He reached it about lour miles from the beginning of his course, and encamped ou the north in a bend umong some a22 ITION if tluH raiipfo ' bluffon its wclve iiii'^s liiH course liich in Oict loot of the ii'rtilo, yet n\i}rht have irct'ly more '^^fhcre are myriadH of HpecioH of phiiii. Jle it of obser- li he wont I the north ^•a8 N. HO lar^e creek ong- Avhu li wide, the turbid, the lineral ap- eHI)eet, ex- ! Missouri. II sui)])lied y of dark 1 freestone river bore e distance rected liis bout two plains for 8 so steep •n to the it about iirse, and )ug some «■'-> the rain ^h" '^t ^^'"l^-'' «""' <"«1.. K'"".' j.«t m...,ti,Z r "'; ""■"'■""" "'« ""•' «-...n.,l„I ,1 |„ ','; ' " '-' "■•••■'"'"n.l „ w„„„,i, -"icl. IK. ,„„1 1,CM ";','! ''""'". t">var,lH Here l,e ihmul tlie b, , , """''"'' •>-''"ta- *"- 'i«taaeeol'a.orer, ''''""'"''' "'""« ''* »''« of .V- ••"• w. aad:if^:,::';™'"»"«''--tioa called Tower .aoaat , ^ '""""" ''«"'-' ''<' t-e two hi„« ua:;; "rwi « rd"irr «■ °" SIX miles, whea h. ,.,"'" "'"''■•ciit courses course ac oss a dtt bfl" T """-'^^ '"■• "^ ^"••"'cra "-''"'« this ;aX : ;;'r '!"""«' «'"- "• ^'--H'^c those o.U4!tv;:;rd;i:s 11 1 ■•if ff IfJ I: f « IJOWIS AND (ll.AUKS KXPKDITION with K'l'*'"^*' (niMiitilirH ol' l)u(ral(>, and komio wolvoH, loxcM, and ant('l<>|»*'*^. '""il intcrHtrtcd lU'ur tlu» river b.y dcrp ravincH. Here at the ;(> of barking- HiiuirrelH which we had yet Heen: lor he pawHed a wldrt of their territory lor Heveii luih'w. lie also naw near the hillH a iloek ol' the mountain eoek or a lar^e niurieH of heatli hen witli a ion^- pointed tail, which the IndiauH below had int'ormed uh were common amonj^ the Hock mountainw. Having; llniwhed hiw courne of ten milcH went aeroe a bend, lie con- tinued two miles N. HO W. ; . . a tiiat point discovered Honio lofty moun uiiin j the north- went of Tower niountain ant- ^ <> in^ N. ()."> VV. at eij>*hty or one hundred mileH diHtance: here ho encamped on the north side in a. handnome low ^•round, on which were neveral old stick lodjjjes: there had been but little tind)er on the river in the forepart of the day, but now there is a v:»*t' W. e: here he iHome U)W ci\ h)djjjeH: iver ill the a jijreater [' iH about : deep, and )arty had )y way of rein, whieli Mider. now con- on too tar [ therefore to take a -^er, which ' the iii^ht n : part of mniaiiding rhich they liles vS. HO^ vev, which '^'* 'nil: MisNoiTRr. thence bore north vvardiv i.. i • ntftH had l.vn pr C ," "'"' '"'"""^'^ t^o "«^,;-,«i;^r wilH wet jiikI H.,... f •"■'■'■"""'■y t... ..,..,u„i I, :„„""■'":'■ " >"'" Tl....y I |„T,.fl,n. ,■,•„„«,! ,1,- *-"' ''-^ ''""'■ «"'I "t"n„ W," ,",''':''''''■'•"■'■■• *''-"«l. « Hv.rrn,,! „„,.f, tl„. ^, ™ ,"" .""' "' ''■'""■♦'"-• '"n...,Mwn.,.o„r;:;; t;. ;;::,,"• •■■'•♦'"■^ |)<'r: l,„t m,'„t „ , ""I>I>I"h] tluiiii with witlmnt.,; Z^t omT. '""•""""■•'"'-'- ■"«"* «"d till ,nonm« " *''" '"'""' >^'"<='' '■"•Mu- Walk wife .t 1^ ,:;;r "■"'";« *" -■* -.- the river. Th:L:^ i^ '..,;:";;,.::' '^^r"" ""-■ Heen; notwithHta,.,!!. "":*''" "^^ we i.ave ever deep, „„d ™e,„h,e» ti^a^^^ :„ r, J;'":' '^ quires more wntov +.. ^ ^"^I'nn, nut it it re- with equal difficultv , ™ 'M"'''^« ^^h molHture one of thene ut .V ''''"""'^ ''^''''^ '^'^ «"^^^ «f' in lenJZ I '' "^^"-ow pans thirty ..n„j, xn len^-th, captain Lewin ylipped and hJV fortunate recovery, by meani .r T '' "^ y^ "^^ ^^"^ Hpontoon, LFAVIS AND CLAItK'H EXIMODITION III B would !i.'vv(' Itocn prccipitntiMl into the river ovpr a jtrccipico of nlMHit niiicty li'ot. Mo had juHt rcavlu'd a Hpot uIutc by tlic UHHiHtancc ol' liiH Hpontouu ho could Htand with tolorablo wiloty, when ho hoard a voico bohiud liiui cry out, (Jood (iod, captain, what hIwiII 1 do? ho turned iuHtantly and found it wan WindHor, w'.o had loKt IiIh foot- hold about llio nii(l had jiiKt lU'c ol' hiH l)l(» Hull'ty, out, (iood 1 iiiHtantly Ht liiH f'oot- ])nHH, riiul ■ the prcci- ri^ht arm the other dinjjf on to ceH l>eh)W. reeived by aliiily told he itihouhl i^ht hand, to receive )t' mind ho liiH kneen; >tfhiH nioe- and kneeH, ritie in the way till he [) had not to return lutf, where ) adventure he Hlii)i)ery were inter- dt to pass, mes in the ip to their le too deep r knives in y travelled md having TTP rUK MISSOiriM. made only el«lit,,.n milrn din- ing: Mm whole dav an.p.'. ...„,„ .,1,1 „„n„„,,„|^, HMVkK, ,v :; tlN" «-llk ,„„l i,„V,„„ ,.,„„„ ,|,„„„, on Hcmo willow honghn. 327 T.EWIS AND CLAUK'K FAPEDITION If ii > if t i iiii:i 1 (riiArTKH X. Return of cnplaln I^nvls / '- ^ount of ciiptiUii Clark'H n'scarclies with Ills explorliiK party Perilous situation of oik* of his party Tansy river (iesorllMMl—Tlio party stlU IwlievlnK th(» southern f»)rk Ihe Missouri, captain Lewis resolves to ascend it - Mode of iiuiklUK a place to deposit provisions, called cache - Captain Lewis exploivs the southern fork— Falls of the Missouri discovered, which ascertJiins tli«^ (juestion Iloinantic scenery of the surrounding country- Narrow escape of captain Lewis - Tlu' main body under captain Clark ai)proach within live inlles of the falls, and pn>piiri* for making :■ porta^o over the rapids. S.'itiir>ln,y, S.—\t contimuHl to rain inodenitely all last iiiKl^t» and the ni()rnin;»; waH clondy till abont ten o'cU)ek, when it cleared off, and became a line day. They breaklasted about Hunriwe and then proceeded down the river in the same way aH they had done yenter 'ny, except that the travel- ling? waH Homewhat better, aw they had not ho often to wade, though they passed some very dangerous blutfs. The only timber to be found is in the low o-rounds Avhich are occasionally on the river, and these are the haunts of innumerable birds, who, when the sun bej^-an to shine, sang very delightfully. Among thest^ birds they dis- tinguished the brown thrush, robin, turtledove, linnet, goldfinch, the large and small blackbird, the wren, and some others. As they came along, the whole of the party were of opinion that this river w^as the true Mi^.^jOuri; but captain Lewis being fully persuaded that it was neither the main stream, nor that which it would be advisable to ascend, gave it the name of Maria's river. After travelling all day they reached the camp at five o'clock in the afternoon, and found captain Clark 328 ITION rk\s nvmuircln^H of ()ll(« of liis IwlltivlnK tlm '('8 to ascend It calU'd nu'he — of tilt! Missouri nantlc scenery 'a|)tain Li^wis - itliiu live miles ver tU(* rapids. moderately cloudy till jind became KunriHe and time way aw ; the travel- had not HO Home very ) be found is nally on the innumerable Hhine, sang s they dis- turtledove, 11 blackbird, came along, on that this ptain Lewis ler the main advisable to river. After imp at five ptain Clark ^f'' Tin-: Missonm. and tl.0 p,trty v,Ty mixlouH for tl.,.|r m(ht. n thvy luul Htnid tu.. any. ion..-,., , „ M ex,.K.te fn r,M , ^ "^ Htruck the bear with his rc8t „| th,. party were separated Crom l,i„, i,^ „ :r.it ";:"''■ "'/.''*^''"' ^^"''■" «"t c;:;;,.,t., uesctnu, it was not in their power to o-.v. i • any aB«i„tunce: fortunately „o',v ^^ a 1 ^t "Z bear became atfrishte,! at their erien am 1! and relea»«I the ,„a„. ,„ the aft Z, r S snow, and in the morning-, June S, the hillH tn +ii« vj t.-" snow nnr? fil " ^^^^'^ Covered with enow, and the rain continued. They proceeded on in a course N. 20^ W. near ^' . river sev.rTlT, till at the distance of eleve. '''T^^^^^ 1 1| ■Ml II 3 if «' Wfl li Uh h fii , If LKWIS AND (M.AUK'H FOXI*KF)IT[()N rl north fork, and to which they gave the name of TauHy river, from the j>:reat (piantity of that herb ^rowin^ on itH bankH. Hero they dined, and then i)roceede«l on a tl'w milew by a place where the Tanny breakn through a high ridge on itH north Hide and encamped. The next day, (ith, the weather waH cold, raw and cloudy, Avith a high northeant wind. They wet out early, down the Tanny, whone low groundn reHend)le precinely, except as to ext<'nt, those of the MisHouri before it branchen, contain- ing a great proi)ortion of a npecien of cotton wood, with a leaf like that of the wild cherry. Atter halting at twelve o'clock for dinner, they anconded the plain, and at five o'clock n iched the camp through the rain, which had fallen without inter- nuHsion since noon. During hin absence the party 'iad been occupied in dressing skins, and being able to rest themselves were nearly freed from their lameness and swollen feet. All this night and the whole of the following day, 7th, it rained, the wind being from the southwest off the moun- tains: yet the rivers are falling, and the ther- 330 tn )ITI()N i» north Hide in to the S. i'" low ; a intiiH to tliH «' HOIltllCUHt tone. Tlu'y 'at (liHtanco tVoiii which width und H to advance acroHH th(^ caHt, nnd h'H the little tallin/LJ^ into nt the name tity of that y dined, and place where id^'c on itH M cold, raw vind. They whoHc low H to extent, es, contain- ottonwood, erry. After ey ascended 1 the camp thont inter- ne the party and being freed from thiH night li, it rained, :" the moun- d the ther- '^'* tup: AiKssudia. nionieter U) ahov Tl.« ..»; nextd.,v H,|, ; .,; .'"''•'""<"""»i"m-d till the eonrse'^^lhe-;::;::^ ^0:;;;:;;:-- ^ tu.,iH w. were ,„„„. tlmn ever emutr , ^ we alroiuly „„ „,, tint M^ V "''"" VVe are „„w witl.in o„e 1,„„„,,.,, ,„Z- ' I"'';'- 12 ,s ,„,„ tl„.,,.,;,re it i„ ,,i,.,„^ i,„„„,l,all timt HontI, )„.fl,re it r,.,u-l,e„ il e , I '''"' *" "'" t" l.nve H„lfi.„.,l ",,!,''• '' '""""'""-. '" 4^»" ..I ^i 'Idler to come aw low n» ^•» along fehe eantern bonh^rw witlw.Mf ^ 7- wineh captaiu Clark Imd exmnim^ us far aHft.T' that the f ouri^ininrniirrr :SeiVf^::r i::- ^r- f - I'y oi Mr. 1 Idler 8 discoveries about a 331 m ilr l*R 1^ 'i: m LF'^WIS AND CLAKK'S K\I'i:iUTI(»N y:n««' to tlic iiorllp.vnnl. and (liiHrioni IrKliaii in- lonimtioii hm to the iH'iiriii^: ofihr point at uliicli tlu» MiKHoiiri «>nt dr^prc Htill further to the northward. TImh inlorniation ol" Mr. I'MdIer however, incorreet ; s it in, alfonlH an additional reaHon lor not purHnin^' Maria'H river; for if ho canio as low even hh 17' and Haw only nniall Htre/unHeoinin/;- down from the niountaiiiH, it iH to be prcHiinied that theH«> rivnIetH do not penetrate the !{oeky mount ainH ho r mh to ap- proach any naviy;ah|e liraneh of Tohnnhia, and tliey are moHt probably the renii .e w/iterH of H<»me northern branch of the Minnouri. In nhort, bein;;' already in latitude 47' 21 we cannot rea- Honauly hope by ^'oinK' f'irther to tho northward to tlnd between thin i)lace and the SaHkanhawan any Htreain which can, hh the Indiann anHure uh the MiHHouri docH, pohhchh a navi;;*able current ibr Home distance in the Kocky mountainn: the In- dians had uHsured us aim) that the water of tho Missouri was nearly transparent at the IIiIIh; this is the ease with the Houthern branch; that tho falls biy a, little to tho Houth of HuuHot from them; thi'^ too iH in favour of tho Houthern fork, for it bears consideraldy Houth of this i)laee, which is only a few minutes to the- northward of fort Mandan; that the falls are l)elow tho Kocky mountains and near the northern termination of one ran^e of those mountains: now there is a rid;;»;e of mountains which appear behind tho South mountains and terminatOH to the southwest of us, at a sulticient distance from the unbroken chain of tho Rocky mountains to alic>w space for several falls, indeed we tear for too many of them. If too the Indians iK.d ever passed any stream as large as this southern fork on their way up tne Alis- '6V2 ITION II IikHmii in- it, Hi uliicli it wo iliiiik «I«'fj:n'(' Htill niDitioii of MJfordM an ria'H river; I Haw only KioiiiitaiiiH, IctH »l<> not MH to ap- ('oliinil)ia, ' WMlcPH of In Hhort, •Mil not rca- nortliward dianhawan HHHuro IIH I'lirrcnt for iih: the fn- itcr of the fallH; thiH ; that the iiHet from Dhern fork, ace, which rd of fort )he Itocky lination of there is a the youth vest of us, n chain of or several ni. If too u as large p tue Mis- 1^1' 'nil,' MJSH(MJICI. Houri, l\wy would I Nil ""■""."■'"''""'■'lit:«„HmKl„. th,, Mi„„„„ri. Tl,. I„„|" P ■■'""•'' '""«• '•" '"-«.- H,, u c, i:::;':'-, ;." "•" - ■■n.l.l,.,li„u„„,.i, (l,„ ? '""' ''•'"" '"""""I- ""•'/"""•'"''""■"l/l.rll,,, 'i'hoHe ohHcrvafif lu ,..i • i <'«P''''■""■•>' W""' '•" ""■ ""'•!l,l, |„, ,„„!f.,„l ,.,,., "'" "'"t '"'tll- we r(wli,.(l (.itli.T tl„. flillH „l < -^ '"' "'"■' ■"fell ,w „„„„i „ ' , '"^''^"' "'"• '""■'''■■■H a» -Mel, we e„„,., '«>:;' Lf^t!^ '"*«"«^^ l-roviHion, «alt, ....^der u„,I f, , . '"* """"' ""ee li,.|,ten tlio'ot I '^Tt' :, " '"'",7°""' "' crew whi,.!, ,,„,i , "' ""'' f''™ them the I-oriogue ' '"*" '^""""^<"' "■> '-"ard the '"'"'''•^' '''-'^''«' -«- being f.i,,„„p„,^. '» M fi H| 11' 'M; X.EW1S AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION ant we dried all our baggage and merchandise and made our deposit. These holes, or caches as they are called by the Missouri traders, are very common, particularly among those who deal with the Sioux, as the skins and merchandise will keep perfectly sound for years, and are protected from robbery: our ctwjhe is built in this manner: In the high plain on the north side of the Missouri and forty yards from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, and then describing a small circle of about twenty inches diameter, removed the sod as gently and carefully as possible: the hole is then sunk perpendiculariy for a foot deep, or more if the ground be not firm. It is now worked gradu- ally wider as thev descend, till at length it be- comes six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle or the lower part of a large still, with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. As the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and care- fully laid on a skin or cloth, in which it is car- ried away and usualiy thrown into the river or concealed so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of three or four inches in thickness is then made of dry sticks, on which is thrown hay or a hide per- fectly dry. The goods being well aired and dried are laid on this floor, and prevented from touch- ing the wall by otb^r dried sticks in proportion as the ijiorchandjse is stowed away: when the hole is nearly :iill, a skin is laid over the goods, and on this earth is thrown and beaten down until with the addition of the sod first removed the whole is on a level with the ground, and there remains not the slightest appearance of an excavation. In addition to this we made another of smaller di- mensions, in which we placed all the baggage, • some powder, and our blacksmith's tools, having previously repaired such of the tools we carry 334: It )ITION merchandise 3r caches as rs, are very lo deal with ise will keep jtected from mer: In the lissouri and chose a dry all circle of d the sod as hole is then or more if rked gradu- ength it be- learly like a ill, with the ;re. As the lel and care- ti it is car- he river or A floor of 3n made of ' a hide per- d and dried Tom touch- >portion as the hole is >d8, and or until with he whole is imains not i^ation. In smaller di- 5 baggage, • )ls, having we carry UP THE MISSOrJKI. '" tie two diBtinet piC ^ ''f """ ""^^^ drawn up on the mWdTe or » ."^ """"ff"" «'*« entrance of Maria's ri^er 1" ' ''"""■ ''* *•"-■ fastened to the tree. ZZ' fh J^"'"^ ^^ ""eins In the evening th^eZ^T'"""''^'"^' "outhweet aecompani Twl ?. T'^ '""^ *''« We now made anothei obslilt "I'"" *■"> ^i"- altitude of the eun and f f ;'"°'^*'"'"'«"dian tude of the entranc'e of iw *'"'* ""' •»•""' "^ti- l^om three obeervatio^" ^r T{^ '^"'^'^^ VVe saw a small bird like the ii J ^ "°''*'"- bird which we had not h„f "' ^^'""^ <«■ eat- served that the bee m^!,'. ■"'*' """^ «'«<> ob- to this eountr;aUl^^:'t"the "^'""'''^''""""on and in f„t we\a!e not met tfth th" 'T '"''' since leaving the Osage ri"r ^oney-bee ^™«*W ii.-This morning eaDt«i„ 7 • four men set out on their evnedt? """ ^'^'^ branch. They soon rZL? I " "" *''<' ^outh Tansy river approaches MssVuri"! ?T *"' ing a large herd of elk h„f "f"""", and observ- killed several, whTch their ™' "'^""''^ ""d so that the party in 2 h?"" "''"'« *''-^ ^'^er they came alonl^ Tht Z^lT','^''""^^ but captain Lewis who had he T' '"'■ •"»""'; afflicted with the Zlelt T "" """'' ""^^ With violent pains a«endedVa 'htT/"'^''"' was unable to go on He?.,^-. ^'' '^™'' «» both at the (irst flre „ e- ' """^ '"»"' "■<"» never before oec' rr« 1, ""'"'"''*'"""' *•"<='' ha« the remaindi on a tL > °''' ^"* ""-^ ''""S open plains. Mere thev 1 * '"to the burrowing „JZ l,! *'"'"'* """""^™°'' the ™u.e-deer^n';::i; t:,rof Lrir.r'*''^"' crossed a rid«e eonsiderabi; h^h^ th tl '""" rounding plains, and from LIT I . **"* ™'"- view of the l{oek„ 1 ' *°P '"«' » beautiful completel/ eovere^d wTh '"' *"""" ^^ ■">- course is from Tuthelt .'".7^ '""'' '^'"'^''' west, and they s^m tT! i" "'"■*'' "'' ""th- which Buccessiverrise abo"vr' f *'™^'*' ^^Sea -St distant mingles w^t et ds"*";; *"! ''" elhng twe ve miles tho,r „ • "'"'*• ^fter trav- there was a handsome nf T* *""' ''™'' whe«> aithough it ^TZXzZTT^r''"^ come twentyseven miles^et . "^ ""^ °"'^ weak from his late T ^ ^ '^''"*'"" ^^wis felt mined to go „o f^ J'T?<^' "»" therefore deter- of the dafthr/kifM a'^uaX of" ''' """^ saw some siirns of of+. 'luantity of game, and -n.trae.rthTr;?Cn^^^^^ T''' ^"^ great quantities of tin whitp r I ^ ''^ '^"^^* Vol. I «22 337 "'"^^^o^ed yes- '} u "SSffts P Pplliil. n ■■ LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION terdaj. With the broad-leafed cottonwood, which has formed the principal timber of the Missouri, is here mixed another species differing from the first only in the narrowness of its leaf and the greater thickness of its bark. The leaf is long, oval, acutely pointed, about two and a haU" or three inches long and from three quarters of an inch to an inch in width ; it is smooth and thick, some- times slightly grooved or channeled, with the margin a little serrate, the upper disk of a com- mon, the lower of a whitish green. This species seems to be preferred by the bea\er to the broad- leaved, probably because the former affords a deeper and softer bark. ThursiUy 1.^.— They left their encampment at sunrise, and ascending the river hills went for six miles in a course generally southwest, over a country which though more waving than that of yesterday may still be considere' level. At the extremity of this course they overlooked a most beautiful plain, where were infinitely more buffalo than we had ever before seen at a single view. To the southwest arose from the plain two moun- tains of a singular appearance and more like ram- parts of high fortifications than works of nature. They are square figures with sides rising perpen- dicularly to the height of two hundred and fifty feet, formed of yellow clay, and the tops seemed to be level plains. Finding that the river here bore considerably to the south, and fearful of passing the falls before reaching the Rocky moun- tains, they now changed their course to the south, and leaving those insulated hills to the right pro- ceeded across the plain. In this direction captain Lewis had gone about two miles when his ears were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water, and as he advanced a spray which seemed '?38 UP THE MLSSOUEI. ttZi!:yt?i!tr tr r-'' -- »•">- an instant. Towardrthf ^"^^ ''"'^ ™"'«''«' '" «tePB. and the n7:tZZC"'J f ' •'"^*^ "'^ «oon became too treraeTdon ,, '^"P™'"''"' a-y thing but the great fall nf^K"'""""^" '"''' Having travelled seven mlef^ft i "" *"**°"'- «ound he reached the fa, «',?"? f'"* '■^"'""S the the hiUs as he approIcM : ^-difflTT ^J'''''^''- and two hundred feet hiJh T "^'^^u't of a«cess With impatience in!'^'^nX''JrTn '^ """'^ under the centre of the fiJ. T- , «onie rocks ^Pecta^e of this stu^:C 1^1^:1,^ ""''""' creation had been lavishinir itJZ f *"""* *■■« ti>e de^rt unkno.. tfi^^i.f/a.r'''^-- "P^ •.undXlr^HMf It r* '*« -re '« three Pendicular cliff on the left T!"" '" "'^ " !«•- one hundred feet and extends?'! ^""^ *" ''•'«"* mile; on the right the S- ^.^^ '"■'""° '"<"• «■ for three hund^ tardi u """' Pe'-P»dicular ■^nety or a hundred "rd, f™ .*"'' '''*"«■ i^"^ water fails in one storeverhe^^^"""* '"^ '"« pice of at least eighty feet Th. ' ™'" * P"**" the river precipitateTiSwlh f"" "^ """* '''' ••ent, but being receiver, iTrn."""'^ ''''P''' ™"-- and so.„evvha"t pr:i::^i:^' ^'S ^L^ T^'"' splendid prospect of perfectlvw?*^' '*"'™« a dred yards in length IT^ whit^foam twohun- elevation. This sp^vt .1 '^ ^^ '" P^^Pendicnlar -nd Shapes, son:Ss7y;: ™ JT, ^ *"""• fifteen or twenty fPPf ^^rh- i ^ ^^ columns of larger masses of the whi^C *'™ ""P^^^^" ^-^ Bun impresses the Lfehtesf H' °" ''" ^''''='' *•>« bow. As it rises from the 1, 1°^ / ^"^ ™'''- against a ledge of rocks whfc/e.teT7'''' '"^ -rat one hundred a.di'';:rsSr:L^ r ».: i ove this fall iward: while leard a loud oint of a hill le of the most >\e Missouri is rock, which an edge as art, stretches ! other for at t precipitates }t to the per- ence dashing apidly down, purest foam it presented ! without any le lower falls, jes which the m a beautiful L regaled with le distance of another of a hastened, and le whole river nt of fourteen was only six irhood would ;nificence, but 3 of secondary er awakened, Id night over- He therefore 3 river, which ids and small le bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the TJP THE MTSSOTTRI. river beca- a distance, receives the TJj I *'' "" ''"^^" a l.ttle .„i,u„l in the middle of the rive well puted mmr,m of a .pot, to ,-o„te„t whomZ mimon neither man nor l,ea»t wn„i^ / -o- the «„,„. that .■rro„':7-t;„r . r;: +• ^ ., cOiiKi not escape the obsprvA tion of the Indians who made thi p. i' Cert r 'r -te trwhicht: JuBt above this is a cascade of abont Ave feTt L yond which, as far as could be disceraS^ 'th; Telocity of the water seemed to abate rt^f! Lewis now ascended the hill wh^^T tas be *,„d rrv:;:;:ie::i?o;nr«:ir-"*''-""»- Winding course, AM with warr'-r'™'' "« grassy banks. ;hile about frtii: ZZ7t T" 343 «=f LmiH AND (U.AUKS FAIMMXTION diHtinKniHi"'y tJio timlMT which Hrii(»«l it« HhorcH; the MtHHoiiri itwlf Htrt'U'hcH to the Houth ill one unrufHed Htreuiu of water iih if uiicoiiHciouH of the roujfhneHH it luuHt hooh encounter, and bearing on itH boHoin vaHt flocks of ^ecHe, whih* nuinerouH herdH of Inifl'alo are feeding on the plainH which Hurround it. (laptain JiewiH then dcHcended the hill, and directed hiH courHe towards the river falling in from the v/CHt. lie noon met a herd ofatU'aHta thouHand bulfalo, and bein^ demrouH ofprovidin^ for Hiipper whot one of them; thr animal imme- diately be^an to bleed, and captain Lewin who had forgotten to reload hiH rifle, waH intently watchinj< to Het^ him fall, when he beheld a larjj^e brown bear who waH Htealinj^ on him unperceivelit('n<'('<«, lie HPiMiH'd rctrciitcd wJM, ^h nd »v, nnd ohHcrvod li 'I'l^'T, (•n,i)tHin LcwIh «n.af, „,,„,, „.,„„„. _,_^. ^^ ^^^^ nn run with -;- t'"-« .:;;::■ ;i'r ':;'"• "hirm of flw. iw.nH I ^ ' "'<' M'Khh'u <"■ t wi " ;. ::;':r'"'''''^' '' """ "'"""•"t unl,„Ml,,| ,, , '" '"" ••'"" •- '"• "I '" •"<■ 'ii".t on ,,,„?',:" ''","'":"■" '"" '"•"*■"•'■"" the ,veHt<.rn river , '"'' ""' ^"'"'" '""■'"•''« ahouttw..",,: ;';;:;::;:,:""""" ■"^-'-m with a w'Mtl,, rurr™/ i. ' "'''""-"""^ "'••"P, fret VVI,.,f „ """"'"""> "'"t iH Crom t|,r,,, to live w..^.i^n,w,tC::u: /;;;;::/:f,7-". moiintitiiiH, that il,.. * "'"'"" '"•""ty to tlio '"dtiiiKofthe ow^w n'"'" ""'""« "•'"" t''» ""luce -f «:";•, ' f; ^'"'""-^ '>«=t wo„l,I their >'-><>^z^'::,::z^;':^,j::-:^;^i i;"' sr;;i:%r:r'in:'zr^?"- o« emptying into thrM ' ^^ n.cntione.1 fallB. After exa.ni„,„ rr"' ^""' '""»"' "'e LEWTR AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION ing through the low groundn on Medicine river he met an aniniul which ai a diHtance he thought was a wolf, but on coming within Hixty paceH, it proved to be Home browniHh yellow animal Htand- ing near itH burrow, which, when he came nigh, crouched and Heemed "'h if about to Hpring on him. '^'aptam LewiH fired and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From the track and the general ap- pearance of the animal he supposed it to be of the tigfR^r kind. He then went on, but as if the beasts of the forests had conspired against him, three buffalo bulls which were feeding with a large herd at th(» distancj of half a milo, left their compar ions and ran at full npeed towards him. He turned round, and unwilling to give up the field advanced towards them: whei. ;hey came within r hundred yards, they stopped, looked at him for some time, and then retr oated as they came. He now pui. tied his route in the dark, reflecting on the strange adventures and sights of Me day, which crowded on his mind so rapidly that he should have been inclined to believe it all enchant- ment if the thorns of the prickly pear piercing his feet did not dispel at every moment the ?'lusion. He at last reached the party, who had beep very anxious for his safety, and who had already de- cir> ^ -^n the route which each 'should take in the nr A I'na^ > look for him. Being much fatigued he BUi pc . .viid slept well during the night. Saturday, 15.— '^he men were again sent out to bring in the game Rxi.ad yesterday and to procure more : they also obtained a number of fine trout and several small catfish weighing about four pounds, and differing from the white catfish lower down the Missouri, On awaking this morning captain J '"wis found a large rattlesnake coiled on the trunk of a tree under which he had been sleep- 346 i I -N.^ x-v' '.^ "., [TION licine river he thought ty paces, it null stand- came nigh, ng on him. appeared in general ap- be of the f the beasts him, three , large herd ir eompar 4 him. He ip the field ime within 1 at him for came. He ■fleeting on )f Jie day, ly that he ill enchant- piereing his he T'lusion. d beep very already de- take in the fatigued he it. sent out to to procure f tine trout about four tfish lovv^er is morning :e coiled on been sleep- I m^ ( fl ) mm Hi fi II ? ip f?. I", :,^i^u River 4AO0 77b. tfitU *» UP THE MISSOURI. states, not in its colours but in the form ».„i arrangement of then,; it had one hnndrS and eeventy-six scuta on the abdnm.r, . T half-formed scuta on the ten "^LrfslTef" wnicn no doubt proceeds from the mist of +h^ fajls as it takes place nowhere in the p !« no on the nver except here. The messenser sent to captain Clark returned with informa^on nf i having arrived five miles belo^at a^ wh fch he did not think it prudent to ascend Td wo^d wait till captain Lewis and his party rejoineThim On Tues,ln.y, IHU, the day when captain LewT' left us, we remained at the entrance of Maril's nver and completed the deposits of all the aSs with wiicn we could dispense. The mornirhtl t"hifT^' \'!,'^'' "'"' <■""' ^""^ --'"-est Which shifted in the evening to northwest when it^tToX "'"°'^^»''"--'"^'''^'> tI: Wednemiay, 12, we left our encampment with a fair day and a southwest wind. The riverlas »ow so crowded with islands that within the dis tance often miles and a half we passed eleven of ^ ffereat dimensions before reaching a high blac, number of swallows. Within one mile and a ha^f ^ a^rrhTt' "'"'■ ?"" '^"'■"'"' *-' - -^ real'he „ ' '"''™ '■'■°™ °"'' encampment sprint" it •"'""\^'''"'' *''•' ■"«" called Grog Sphere tL^ "°'*''"" *''°"'' «"" -* *"« hundred':::di:rtyMioTn:r„rVa:: we proceeded three miles to a low bluff o^tt north opposite to an island, and spent the ^gSt 847 «*J„:,..,..^i***«WW*-,.. ii a r LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION in an old Indian oncanipment. The bluffH under which we passed were composed of a bhickish chiy and coal for about eighty feet, above which ior tliirty or forty feet is a brownish yellow earth. 'JMie river is very rapid and obstructed by bars of gravel and stone of different shapes and sizes, so that three of our canoes were in great danger in the course of the day. We had a f eAv drops of rain about two o'clock in the afternoon. The only animals we killed were elk and deer; but we saw great numbers of rattlesnakes. Thursday, i;/ —The morning was fair and there was some dew on the ground. After passing two islands we reached at the distance of a mile and a half a small rapid stream fifty yards wide, empty- ing itselt on the south, rising in a mountain to the southeast about twelve or fifteen miles distant, and at this time covered with snow. As it is the channel for the melted snow of that mountain we called it Snow river: opposite to its entrance is another island : at one mile and three quarters is a black bluff of slate on the south, nine miles be- yond which, after passing ten islands, we came to on the southern shore near an old Indian fortified camp, opposite the lower point of an island, hav- ing made thirteen miles. The number of islands and shoals, the rapidity of the river, and the quantity of large stones, rendered the navigation very disagreeable: along the banks we distin- guished several low bluffs or cliffs of slate. There v^ere great numbers of geese and goslings; the geese not being able to fly at this season. Goose- berries art ripe and in great abundance; the yel- low currant is also common, but not yet ripe. Our game consisted of buffalo and goats. Friday, i-^.— Again the d«iy is fine. We made two miles to a small island in the southern bend, 3i8 W THE AllSSOtJItl. after pasau,-. several b„,l ra„i,l- Tl, con,e« indeed swifter ,«, w. V, . ''"'''■™t h^- frequently r^eive wltrVr"" '.""" ""^ '^'"'™« difficulty alo„„. ATthe ,1i . ' "''"''' ""'"' »'"' •*«he,l captain (Jl rk ca,, ""''J"' "''^ "'"^" «'« « "" the north si e "tn ""*'""'"•"•"'' ^-""ch ff^'velly ,,„, Here the „'"'""*'' '" " ''''•«« Wis joined „swththr„| a "'■"' ''^' »"'"'^' he had discvere, tl" ?,' «."""''«™"'^ "'«» thM the eonrse «" „^re f J, "" """ "■'»'">''•«' f«e Missonri At I ,^V , "''' '*''"' "--it of the the upper point of .n i sL'.d^r "'"■ "" '''^"-^ ■ mile beyond which we en ^'''f -l^aMers of a after making only en and"""" °" *''« «°"«'. t'>e river ^"^ but fttk t,'' I""'"' "'""'■ ^'°"« slate in the bluffs. '""■' '"'* '"«'='' hard Saturday, 7,T— Tho »,^ • fair we «erout'at ttlZTo' 1'^ ""^"^ ^^ with great difficultv in "'' ''"* Proceeded creaeed rapid itrorf. '^"«^^^»«"ee of the in- constantly obstructed by roAs , f""'"''' '« rapids. ,.„rin,. the whXprogr Jtt n ""^"''™ the water hauling the canoef j ™ *''<' i" sharp rocks and round stones w,.''". """"""fc' °» orcause them to fall Ce ™t« ' .""' ''''" «** numerous that the men ».. ^^ *^ *"" »'•'' «<> Suard against bei ,g toten' vT'""*'^ "" *"«- the fat-g,. ,s with the *««" L • '■ T "'"^ ''^^ nese. VVehear the roar of theV ,',"'"'""''' •""^^'^'■'- this morni.,g. At th ee a. . ^ '"'^ '"'""''*'^ ■ve came to a rock hia f ,?' ""'''•*«■• miles *-l.ling a tower A ",v .'^i*'' *"'' -"th, re- -e reached a large creek onTe "2??^" """ one of our men we called v,m n ' ^"=" *"<■■• rapid in its course about t^ * ' "'''^- " '« on Bending „ per;o„''re tn ^ Tut """*' ^"<' weafaiiofflftee„fetaj:;:^trrri:: li i< t If:! ' fl 1. « I I. ; I LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION low ground. Above this river the bluffs of the Missouri are of red earth mixed with stratas of black stone ; below it we passed some white clay in the banks which mixes with water in every respect like flour. At three and three quarter miles we reached a point on the north opposite an island and a bluff"; and one mile and a quarter further, after passing some red bluffs, came to on the north side, having made twelve miles. Here we found a rapid so difficult that we did not thiak proper to attempt the passage this evening, and therefore sent to captain Lewis to apprise him of our arrival. We saw a number of geese, ducks, crows, and blackbirds to-day, the two former with their young. The river rose a little this evening, but the timber is still so scarce that we couM not procure enough for our use during the night. Sunday, June 16.— Some rain fell last night, and this morning the weather was cloudy and the wind high from the southwest. We passed the rapid by doubly manning the periogue and canoes, and halted at the distance of a mile and a quarter to examine the rapids above, which we found to be a continued succession of cascades as far as the view extended, which was about two miles. About a mile above where we halted was a large creek falling in on the south, opposite to which is a large sulphur spring falling over the rocks on the north : captain Lewis arrived at two from the falls about five miles above us, and after consult- ing upon the subject of the portage, we crossed the river and formed a camp on the north, having come three quarters of a mile to-day. From our own observation we had deemed the south side to be the most favourable for a portage, but two men sent out for the purpose of examining it, re- 350 DP THE MISSOURI. ported that the creek and the ravines intersected the p a,« so deeply that it was impossible to c^^ It. taptam Clark therefore resolved to exam^ more nnnntely what was the best route- thtfol canoes were unloaded at the camp and then ent across the river, where by n,eans of strongeorts they were hauled over the first rapid, whente ttev may be easily drawn into the creek. FinZl too that the portage would be at all events too long to enable us to carry the boats on our shoulders S.X men were set to work to make wheels I; carnages to transport them. .Since leaving Mana s nver the wife of Chaboneau, our Zet preter, has been dangerously ill, but she now found great rehef from the mineral water of the sulphur froTthe \r ""''*'^ '"'°'" *"° hundred Tards irom the .Missouri, into which it empties over a pr^ipice Of rock about twenty-five' feet hgh Ihe water ,s perfectly transparent, strongly ?„! pregnated with sulphur, and we suspect iron also as tlje colour of the Mils and bluffs in the nett bourhood indicates the presence of that metal. In short the water to all appearance is precisely V;Sl * "'■ '"'^''"' ™""'" ^P™« '" Monday iZ.-Captain Clark set out with five men to explore the country; the rest were em- ployed m hunting, nmking wheels and in drawing the five canoes and all the baggage up the creek Which we now called Portage creek: from this creek there is a gradual ascent to the top of t! e high plain, while the blufls of the creek lower down and of the Missouri, both above and below its entrance, were so steep .xs to have rendered it almost impracticable to drag them up from the Missouri. We found great difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek thus far in 851 ii'.l LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION 1' I' i 'I ;;_*;? consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the creek, which just aboNe where we brought the canoes has a fall of five feet, and higli and steep bluffs beyond it ; we were very fortunate in finding just below rorta^«-e creek a cottonwood tree about twenty-two inches in diameter, and large enough to make the carriage wheels : it was perhaps the only one of the same size within twenty miles; and the cottonwood, which we are obliged to emjiloy in the other parts of the work, is extremely soft and britth'. The mast of the white periogue which we mean to leave behind, supplied --H Avith two axletrees. There are vast quantities of buffalo feeding on the plains or watering in the ri^er, which is also strewed with the floating carcases and umbs of these animals. They go in large herds to water about the falls, and as all the passages to the river near that place are narrow and steep, the foremost are pressed into the river by the impatience of those behind. In this way we have seen ten or a dozen disappear over the falls in a few minutes. They afford excellent food for the wolves, bears, and birds of prey; and this circumstance may account for the reluctance of the bears to yield their do- minion over the neighbourhood. Tuesday id?.— The periogue wds drawn up a lit- tle below our camp and secured in a thick copse of willow bushes. We now began to form a cache or place of deposit and to dry our goods and other articles which required inspection. The wagons too are completed. Our hunters brought us ten deer, and we shot two out of a herd of buffalo that came to water at the sulphur spring. There is a species of gooseberry growing abun- dantly among the rocks on the sides of the cliffs : it is now ripe, of a pale red colour, about the size ■:-3^A. r-T. ..>^.*,- UP THE MI8SCJRI. of the common gooseberry, and like it is an ovate pericarp of noft pulp enveloping a number of small whitish coloured seeds, and consisting of a yellow- ish slimy mucilaginous substance, with a sweet taste; the surface of the berry is covered with a glutinous adhesive matter, and its fruit though ripe retains its withered corolla. The shrub itself seldom rises more than two feet high, is much Iminched, and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those ot the common gooseberry except in being emaller, and the berry is supported by separate peduncles or footstalks half an inch long There are also immense quantities of grasshoppers of a brown colour in the plains, and they no doubt contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is not generally more than three inches high, though It IS soft narrow-leafed and affords a fine pasture tor the buffalo. Werlnes^Iny i.9.-The wind blew violently to-day as It did yesterday, and as it does frequently in this open country, where there is not a tree to break or oppose its force. Some men were sent for the meat killed yesterday which fortunately had not been discovered by the wolves. Another party went to Medicine river in quest of elk, which we hope may be induced to resort there from there being more wood in that neighbourhood than on the Missouri. All the rest were occupied m packing the baggage and mending their mocca- sins, in order to prepare for the portage. We caught a number of the whitefish, but no catfish or trout. Our poor Indian woman, who had re- covered so far as to walk out, imprudently ate a quantity of the white apple, which with some dried fish occasioned a return of her fever The meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb, as observed with octant by back observation, wae Vol, I. — ii3 353 , I f LEWIS AND CLAUK'S- EXPEDITION m B 53° 12', giving as the latitude of our camp, 47° 8' 59" 5. . Thursday 20.— As we were denirous of getting meat enough to hist us during the portage, so that the men might not be diverted from their labour to look for food, we sent out four hunters to-day: they killed eleven buffalo. This was in- deed an easy labour, lor there are vast hc'rds coming constantly to the opposite bank of the river to water ; they seem also to make much use of the mineral water of the sulphur spring, but whether from choice, or because it is more con- venient than the river, we canncic determine, as they sometimes pass near the spring and go on to the river. Besides this spring, brackish water or that of a dark colour impregnated with mineral salts, such as we have frequently met on the Mis- souri, may be found in small quantities in some of the steep ravines on the north side of the river opposite to us and at the falls. Captain Clark returned this evening, having examined the whole course of the river and fixed the route most practicable for the portage. The first day, 17th, -he was occupied in measuring the heights and distances along the banks of the river, and slept near a ravine at the foot of the Crooked falls, having very narrowly e8cai)ed falling into the river, where he would have perished inevitably, in descending the cliffs near the grand cataract. The next day, 18th, he continued the same occu- pation, and arrived in the afternoon at the junc- tion of Medicine and Missouri rivers ; up the latter he ascended, and passed at the distance of a mile an island and a little timber in an eastwardly bend of the river. One mile beyond this he came to the lower point of a large island ; another small island in the middle of the river, and one near the 354 noN camp, 47° of getting ortage, so from their ur hunters lis WHS in- 'ast h'Ttls ink of tlie ! much use ipring, but more con- ermine, as i go on to li water or th mineral n the Mis- in some of if the river ig, having r and fixed tage. The isuring the f the river, le Crooked ailing into inevitably, . cataract, same occu- lt thejunc- ) the latter le of a mile sastwardly lis he came )ther small tie near the UP THE MJS80IJUI. left shore at the distnnpo r.r *k the ntt L^.ltg.*'"'^ <''^«'"«> Pu---i„« Mm till' III 'I 1 1' 855 LEWIS AND CLAUKS EXPEDITION ns CHAPTER XI. Description and roinanth; ai»iHMirUnc« of the Missouri at tho Junction of tho Medicine river- The dllllculty of tran.sportluK tho ba^KaRoat the falls— Tho party employed In the construction of a lK)atof skins— The entbarraHHnienl« they had to encounter for want of proper inaterlals— During the work the party much troubled by whlU* bears— Violent hall-storm, and providential escajH} of captain Clark and his party— Description of a remark- able fountain —Singular explosion heard from the Black nioun- talna— The boat found U> b;; iiisufflch^nt. and the serious (llsa|)- pointuient of the party- Captiiin Clark undertakes to repair the damage by building cunoes, and accomplishes the task. On the IDth, captain Clark not bein^ able to find the bear mentioned in the hiHt chaptri. npent the day in examininjjf the '•ountry both above and below the Whitebear islands, and concluded that the place of his encampment would be the best point for the extremity of the portage. '^Phe men were therefore occupied in drying- the meat to be left here. Immense numbers of buffalo are every where round, and they saw a summer duck which is now sittinj^. The next morning, 2Uth, he crossed the level plain, fixed stakes to mark the route of the portage, till he passed a large ravine which would oblige us to make the portage far- ther from the rivtr: after this there being no other obstacle he went to the river where he had first struck it, and took its courses and distances down to the camp. From the draught and survey of captain Clark, we had now a clear and connected view of the falls, cascades, and rai)ids of the Mis- souri. This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it receives the waters of Medicine 356 VI' TUB MISSOUM. forma a beautilul cascade ,.C t,ve ,tv.»ix «lt ^* ™.ic,,.a.,n.„«„topp.j:;;i -:'::t ^inch ,,r„„^tH at about one thinl of the dtataTc'e After, e„ee„di„«tl,i„ Call, a„d „aHHi„.r The c« tl uverp^oeson for five hundml mul +».;«+ 4. aestent of which w thirtiH,» f„t «ix i,i,.he„ tin it i, "".ed by a large fountain boiling u„ m le eath th rockH near the edge of the river, „t vl iX t foils with a cascade of eight feet Jt i« f Ih mo»t perfect clearness and rather of a III,. Lst" and even after falling i„,„ the Miss, „ t nre' serves Its colour for half a-,„ile. Fro twf fom " ta,„ the river descends with increased apilitv?"; the d.sta;,ce of two hundred and four^n poles dunng which the estimate,! descent is five ftt five pot: the' " "'"T """"' """'^-^ -dth «;; mcnes including a perpendicular fall of six f^t seven inches. The river has now become press" mto a spa.e of four hundred and seventy-thrm y57 i' f I i ■ LIOVVIS AND CLARK'S lOXFKDITION yards, and here forniH a jjrand cataract by fallin , over a plain i ^,1. he whole dintance oeroHH the rivtr to th (U'\)r" of f'orty-Hevon ft et ei^ht inches: .xf^er recovr >,Helt' the Mi«80uri then proceedt; with an eHuu r. «' - descent of thret; f'wt. :ill at the distance of one .iiindred and two poles it a^ain is precipitater? Uv/v,n the Crooked falls of nineteen feet perpendicular; below this at the mouth of a deej) ravii e is a fall of five feet, after which for the distance of nine hundred and seventy poles the descent is much more gradual, not being more than ten f et, and then 8uccee ^ n™ L^* : tX' XirsTar hTh-"^ :-" '■^''* measured „•„: thirty yard" of th'e ^I T ''"'"""^ '='"»'' -"hiu ptie-ir"----^^^^^^^ thil Bide of thT'"^ "'k *■ *"" ^'°™ t"^ ^'^ter o^ colour ,,robab,v T"" .'T"'" °' "^ ""'^P "-'"-n . ' I'^O'^ablj caused by some strPAm nu row, which were impeded by the rain hni? , the hard ,,i„d fron, the northwest ' "' '"' 365 mi fi' pi; : . i • tf LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION obliged to use the buffalo hide. The white bear have now become exceedingly troublesome; they constantly infest our camp during the night, and though they have not attacked us, as our dog who patrols all night gives us notice of their ap- proach, yet we are obliged to sleep with our arms by our sides for fear of accident, t nd we cannot send one man alone to any distance, particularly if he has to pass through brushwood. We saw two of them to-day on the large island opposite to us, but as we are all so much occupied now, we mean to reserve ourselves for some leisure moment, and then make a party to drive them from the islands. The river has risen nine inches since our arrival here. At Portage creek captain Clark completed the cache, in which we deposited whatever we could spare from our baggage ; some ammunition, pro- visions, books, the specimens of plants and min- erals, and a draught of the river from its en- trance to fort Maudan. After closing it he broke uj) the encampment, and took on all the remain- ing baggage to the high plain, about three miles. Portage creek has risen considerably in conse- quence of the rain, and the water had become of a deep crimson colour, and ill tasted ; on overtaking the canoe he found that there was more baggage than could be carried on the tv o carriages, and therefore left some of the heavy articles which could not be injured, and proceeded on to Willow- run where he encamped for the night. Here they made a supper on two buffalo which they killed on the way; but passed the night in the rain, with a high wind from the southwest. In the morning, Saturday 20, finding it impossible to reach the end of the portage with their present load, in con- 366 f TION white bear lome; they night, and B our dog )f their ap- our arms we cannot artieularly , We saw d opposite pied now, me leisure Jrive them line inches pleted the • we could lition, pro- i and min- m its en- it he broke he remain- liree miles. in conse- come of a )vertaking e baggage ages, and les which :o Willow- Here they :hey killed the rain, t. In the reach the i.d, in con- UP THE MISSOURI lost some notes and remarks IhM,,, ^ ""« on first ascending the river, hldetnuht t'"''' ui> to tl>e WlUtebear islands 2T t VJ" ?" order to supply the defleieucy i *t lereZ-^'' '" n>au to guard the baggage and 1, f T falls a.eo„,panied hy h1sser™!,t vr^ V?", " *''" ^^rriinTsdlf^--^^^^^^^^ -ometimes doTrn the liT 1,'^ ^'T' "' '* o wi^eh the;*'dr:i t,"" "^"^^ ™'''' ^^-ff'* ram and\:::rdetird?tru:redrM: " a solid mass, and instantly cXtiSTn the ' '" came rolling down in a dre„H( .f ^ ^^ ^""^ the n,ud and .JuZ ZtmTT^l "''"^'"« it. Captain Clark fortun« tfi ^ * °'"'°'"^ before it reached «,«,?! -^ """^ " "" ""'"^t dian woman With her eh Id^'hf"'^ ""'''^ ^"- band too had seized her hand « ^ ''™'' ' *""' up the hil! hnt I ' *""* '''"^ P^'Ung her that h„t fA ^''.''■''' '° *'"'"fi'"J at the danger that but for captain Clark, himself and his »^e 307 LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION and child would have been lost. So instantaneous w as the rise of the water, that before captain Clark had reached his gun and began to ascend the bank, the water was up to his waist, and he could scarce get up faster than it rotie, till it reached tiie heiglit of fifteen feet with a furious current, which had they waited a moment longer would have swei)t them into the river just above the great falls, down which they must inevitably have been precipitated. They reached the plain in safety, and found York who had separated from them just before the storm to hunt some buffalo, and was now returning to find his master. They had been obliged to escape so rapidly that captain Clark lost his compass and umbrella, Chaboneau left his gun, shotpouch, and tomahawk, and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child, before the net in which it lay at her feet was car- ried down the current. He now relinquished his intention of going up the river and returned to the camp at Willow-run. Here he found that the party sent this morning for the baggage had all re- turned to camp in great confusion, leaving their loads in the plain. On account of the heat they generally go nearly naked, and with no covering on their heads. The hail was so large and driven so furiously against them by the high wind, that it knocked several of them down ; one of them particularly was thrown on the ground three times, and most of them bleeding freely and com- plained of being much bruised. Willow-run had risen six feet since the rain, and as the plains were so wet that they could not proceed, they passed the night at their camp. At the Whitebear camp also, we had not been insensible to the hail-storm, though less exposed. In the morning there had been a heavy shower of 368 UP THE MISSOURI. rain after which it became fair. After assigning to the men their respective employments, captain Lewis took one of them and went to see the large fountain near the fallH. For about six miles he passed through a beautiful level plain, and then on reaching the break of the river hiUn, was over- taken by the gust of wind from the southwest attended by lightning, thunder, and rain: fearinir a renewal of the scene on the 27th, they took shelter in a little gully where there were some broad stones with which they meant to protect themselves against the hail ; but fortunately there was not much, and that of a small size; so that they felt no inconvenience except that of being ex- posed without shelter for an hour, and being drenched by the rain: after it was over they pro- ceeded to the fountain which is perhaps the largest in America. It is situated in a pleasant level plain, about twenty-five yards from the river into which it falls over some steep irregular rocks 'with a sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of Its course. The water boils up among the rocks and with such force near the centre, that the sur- face seems higher there than the earth on the sides of the fountain, which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. The water is extremely pure cold and pleasant to the taste, not being impregnated with lime or any foreign substance. It is perfectly transparent and continues its bluish cast for half a mile down the Missouri, notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After examining it for some time captain Lewis returned to the camp. Sunday 30.~ln the morning captain Clark sent the men to bring up the baggage left in the plains yesterday. On their return the axletrees and car- nages were repaired, and the baggage conveyed on the shoulders of the party across Willow-run Vol. I.-24 369 ( i| il 'k LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION which had fallen as low as three feet. The car- riages being then taken over, a load of baggage was carried to the Hix-mile stake, deposited there, and the carriages brought biick. Such is the stat of the plains that this operation consumed the day. Two men were sent to tlie falls to look for the articles lost yesterday; but they found nothing but the compass covtred with mud and sand at the mouth of the ravine; the place at which cap- tain Clark had been caught by the storm, was filled with large rocks. The men comi)lain much of the bruises received yesterday from the hail. A more than usual number of buffalo appeared about the cm ip to-day, and furnished plenty of meat: captain Clark thought that at one view he must have seen at least ten thousand. In the course of the day there was a heavy gust of wind from the southwest, after which the evening was fair. At the Whitebear camp we had a heavy dew this morning, which Ik quite a remarkable occur- rence. Th<' party continues to be occupied with the boat, the crossbars for which are now finished, and there remain only the strips to complete the wood work : the skins necessary to cover it have already been prejjared and they amount to twenty-eight elk skins and four buffalo skins. Among our game were two beaver, which we have had occasion to observe always are found wherever there is timber. We also killed a large bat or goatsucker of which there are many in this neighbourhood, resembling in every respect those of the same species in the United States. We have not seen the leather- winged bat for some time, nor are there any of the small goatsucker in this part of the iMissouri. We have not seen either that species of goatsucker or nighthawk called the 87U i ....-.• UP THE MISSOUKI. whippoopwill, which is commonly confounded in the United States with the large goat«ucker which we observe here; thi« last prepares no nest but lays Its eggs in the oi)en plains; tliey generally be- gin to sit on two eggs, and we believe raine only one brood in a season: at the present moment they are just hatching their young. Monday, July i.-After a severe day's work captain Clark reached our camp in the evening fujcompanied by his party and all the baggage except that left at the six-mile stake, for which they were too much fatigued to return. The route from the lower camp on Portage- creek to that near Whitebear island, having been now measured and examined by captain Clark was as follows • From our camp opposite the last considerable rapid to the entrance of j'ortage creek south 9° east for three quarters of a mile: thence on a course south 10^ east for two miles, though for the canoes the best route is to the left of this course, and strikes Portage one mile and three- quarters from its entrance, avoiding in this way a very steep hill which lies above Portage creek- from this south 18 west for four miles, passing the head of a drain or ravine which falls into ^ae Missouri below the great falls, and to the Willow run which has always a plentiful supply of good water and some timber: here the course turns to south -^T^ west for four miles further; then south 6(> Vest three miles, crossing at the beginning of the course the head of a drain which falls into the Missouri at the Crooked falls, and reaching an elevated point of the plain from which south ^2= west. On approaching the river on this course there is a long and gentle descent from the high plain, after which the road turns a Httle to the right of the course up the river to our camp The 371 •:/r^-*^;:' :-•;.'■■ '.-a gv 'M ait. v* »N!C IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 S 128 I.I 1^ 1^ ^ us, 1.25 1.4 2A 22 1.6 6" Photographic Sciences Corporation m. ,v ^, / r/. A cO^ ^A^ ^v \^ ^A ^ <^ >^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 mc ^ ^ ^\ "^ m .. '^w \ •» i , LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION whole portage is seveii+eeo and three quarter miles. At the Whitebear camp we were occupied with the boat and digging a pit for the purpose of making some tar. The day has been warm, and the mosquitoes troublesome. We were fortunate enough to observe equal altitudes of the sun with sextant, which since our arrival here we have been prevented from doing, by flying clouds and storms in the evening. Tuesday, July 2d.—X shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then despatched some men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest were engaged in putting the boat together. This was accomplished in about three hours, and then we began to sew on the leather over the crossbars of iron on the inner side of the boat which form the ends of the sections. By two o'clock the last of the baggage arrived, to the great delight of the party who were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes we find very trouble- some. Having completed our celestial observations we went over to the large island to make an attack upon its inhabitants the bears, who have annoyed us very much of late, and who were prowling about our camp all last night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bear forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leafed willow: into this we forced our way in parties of three ; but could see only one bear, who instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately as he was rush- ing on the hunter shot him through the heart within tweaty Daces and he fell, which enabled Drewyer to gBt out of his way : we then followed him one hundred yards and found that the wound had been mortal. Not being able to discover any 372 It,'" :ioN e quarter pied with urpose of arm, and fortunate sun with have been id Btorms fell very some men and the together. ours, and over the the boat By two d, to the ixious to ' trouble- itions we a,u attack ! annoyed prowling that the forms an )ad-leafed )arties of instantly vas rush- :he heart 1 enabled followed le wound over any UP THE MISSOURI. more of these animals we returned to camp- here in turning over some of the baggage we caught a rat somewhat larger than the common European rat, and of a lighter colour; the body and outer parts of the legs and head of a light lead colour- the inner side of the legs as well as the bellv, feet and ears are white; the ears are not covered with hair, and are much larger than those of the com- mon rat; the toes also are longer, the eyes black and prominent, the whiskers very long and full • the tail rather longer than the body, and covered with fine fur and hair of the same size with that on the bfu;k, which is very close, short, and silky m its texture. This was the first we had met, although its nests are very frequent among the chffs of rocks and hollow trees, where we also found large quantities of the shells and seed of the prickly pear, on which we conclude they chiefly subsist. The mosquitoes are uncommonly trouble- some. The wind was again high from the soc th- west: these winds are in fa<;t alwayt, the coldest and most violent which we experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed on that subject is, that the air coming in contact with the Snowy mountains immediately becomes chilled and con- densed, and being thu rendered heavier than the air below it descends mto the rarified air i elow or into the vacuum formed by the constant action of the sun on the open unsheltered plains. The clouds rise suddenly near these mountains and dis- tribute their contents partially over the neighbour- ing plains. The same cloud will discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in another, and rain only in a third, and all within the space of a few miles; while at the same time there is snow falling on the mountains to the southeast of us. There is at present no snow on those mountains; 373 >^ i-rt)j»pW*ttl * flT < li r!.^ Bi^l^ LEWIS AND CLARK'8 EXPEDITION that which covered them on our arrival as well as that which has since fallen having disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest of us are still entirely covered with snow, and indeed there has been no perceptible diminution of i* since we first saw them, which ind' es a belief either that the clouds prevailing at this season do not reach their summits or that they deposit their snow only. They glisten with great beauty when the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and most probably from this glittering appear- ance have derived the name of the Shining mcun- tains. Wednesday, 5.— Nearly the whole party were employed in different labours connected with the boat, which is now almost completed: but we have not as yet been able to obtain tar from our kiln, a circumstance that will occasion us not a little embarrassment. Having been told by the Indians that on leaving the falls we should soon pass the buffalo country, we have before us the prospect of fasting occasionally ; but in order to provide a supply we sent out the hunters who killed only a buffalo and two antelopes, which added to six beaver and two otter have been all our game for two or three days. At ten in the morning we had a slight shower which scarcely wet the grass. Thursday, July 4tk.— The boat was now com- pleted except what is in fact the most difficult part, the making her seams secure. We had in- tended to despatch a canoe with part of our men to the United States early this spring; but not having yet seen the Snake Indians, or knowing whether to calculate on their friendship or enmity, we have decided not to weaken our party which is already scarcely sufficient to repel any hostility. 374 .■I3l>li» --«■■•-- UP THE MISSOURI. We were afraid too that 8uch a measure might dishearten those who remain; and as we have never suggested it to them, they are all perfectly and enthusiastically attached to the enterprise and wilhng to encounter any danger to ensure its success. We had a heavy dew this morning >Smoe our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise coming from the mountains m a direction a little to the north of west It is heard at different periods of the day and 'night, sometimes when the air is perfectly still and with^ out a cloud, and consists of one stroke only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is loud and resembles precisely the sound of a six pound piece of ordnance at the distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned this noise like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had paid no attention to it, beiiev- mg It to have been some superstition or perhaps a falsehood^ The watermen also of the party say that the Pawnees and Ricaras give the same J. count ofa noise heard in the Bla^k mountains to the westward of them. The solution ofthe mys- tery g,ven by the philosophy of the watermen is, that It 18 occasioned by the bursting of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom of the mountain. An eJk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day: the buffalo seem to have witJ- drawn from our neighbourhood, though several of the men who went to-day to visit the falls for the first time, mention that they are still abundant at that pla^je. We contrived however to spread not a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honour of the day, and in the evening gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the last of our stock. Some of them appeared sensible to the effects of even so small a quantity, and as is usual 375 m^^ m LEWIS AND CLATIKR EXPEDITION among them on all fostivalH, the fiddle was pro- duced and a dance begun, which laHted till nine o'clock, when it was interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued however their merriment till a late hour. FrUhiy .T.— The boat was brought up into a high situation and fires kindled under her in order to dry her more expeditiously. Despairing now of procuring any tar, we formed a composition of pounded charcoal with beeswax and buffalo tal- low to supply its pln^e; should this resource fail ua it will be very unfortunate, as in every other respect the boat answers our purposes completely. Although not quite dry she can be carried with ease by five men; her form is as complete as could be wished ; v«Ty strong, and will carry at least eight thousand pounds with her complement of hands. Besides our want of tar, we have been unlucky in sewing the skins with a needle which had sharp edges instead of a point merely, al- though a large thong was used in order to fill the hole, yet it shrinks in drying and leaves the hole open, so that we fear the boat will leak. A large herd of buffalo came near us and we procured three of them : besides which were killed two wo' PS and three antelopes. In the course of the day other herds of buffalo came near our camp on their way down the river: these herds move with great method and regularity. Al- though ten or twelve herds are seen scattered from each other over a space of many miles, yet if they are undisturbed by pursuit they will be uniformly travelling in the same direction. Saturday 6.— Last night there were several showers of rain and hail, attended with thunder and lightning: and about daybreak a heavy storm came on from the southwest with one con- 376 If If. i ^mm.'^ft^'X noN wne pro- d till nine a heavy 3ver their p into a r in order ring now osition of ifFalo tal- ouree fail iry other mpletely. ried with as could ■ at least ement of ave been lie which 2;rely, al- o fill the the hole and we ?re killed !Ourse of lear our se herds ity. Al- cattered iles, yet will be 1. several thunder - heavy 3ne con- UP THE MISSOURI. tinued roar of thunder, and rain and hail. The hail which was as large a. musket balls, covered the ground completely; and on collecting some of it, it lasted during the day and served to cool the water. The red and -ellow currant is abundant and now ripe, although still a little acid. We have 'ieen in this neighbourhood what we have not met before, a remarkably small fox which associates in bands and burrows in the prairie, like the small wolf, but have not yet been able to obtain any of them, as they are extremely vigilant, and betake themselves on the slightest alarm to their burrows which are very deep. SunrUj r.-The weather is warm but cloudy, so that the moisture retained by the bark after the rain leaves it slowly, though we have small fires constantly under the boat. We have no tents, and therefore are obliged to use the sails to keep off" the bad weather. Our buffalo skins too, are scarcely sufficient to cover our baggage, but the men are now dressing others to replace their present leather clothing, which soon rots by being so constantly exposed to water. In the evening the hunters returned with the skins of only three buffalo, two antelope, four deer, and three wolf skins, and reported that the buffalo had gone further down the river; two other hunters who left us this morning couM find nothing except one " elk : in addition to this we caught a beaver. The mosquitoes still disturb us very much, and the blow- ing-flies swarm in vast numbers round the boat. At four in the afternoon we had a light shower of rain attended with some thunder and lightning. Monday 8.~In order more fully to replace the notes of the river which he had lost, and which he was i-revented from supplying by the storm of the twenty-ninth ult. captain Clark set out after 377 T ' W't I' if ;ii 1 1 (I wm. LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEPITION breakfaHt, taking with him nearly the whole party with a view of Bhooting i)umilo if there Bhould be any near the fails. Alter getting some distance m the plains the men were divided into H(iuad8, and he with two others struck the Mis- souri at the entrance of Medicine river, and thence proceeded down to the great cataract, lie lound that the immense herds of buffalo have entirely disappeared, and he thought had gone below the falls. Having made the necessary measurements, he returi ;d through the plains and reached camp late in the evening; the whole party had killed only three buffalo three antelopes and a deer; they had also shot a small fox, and brought a living ground-squirrel somewhat larger than those of the United States. The day was warm and fair, but a slight rain fell in the afternoon. The boat having now be- come sufficiently dry, we gave it a coat of the composition, whicli after a proper interval was repeated, and the next morning, Tuesday ,9, she was launched into the water, and swam perfectly well : the seats were then fixed and the oars fitted ; but after we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were on the point of set- ting out a violent wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so that we were forced to unload them. The wind continued high till evening, when to our great disappointment Ave discovered that nearly all the composition had separated from the skins, and left the seams perfectly exposed; so that the boat now leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch is impossible, and as none of that article is to be procured, we therefore, however reluctantly, are obliged to abandon her^ after having had so much labour in the construc- tion. We now saw that the section of the boat 378 i .,..L.... TION the whole Jo if there tting some ivided into k the Mis- and thence lie found re entirely below the surements, ched camp had killed d a deer; brought a than those light rain now be- )at of the ^rval was i^ater, and fixed and d her, as int of set- es to wet io unload ing-, when ired that from the osed ; so ro repair le, and as therefore, idon her, jonstruc- bhe boat UP THE MISSOURI. covered with buffalo skins on which hair had been left, answered better than the elk skins and leaked but little ; while that part which was cov- ered with hair about one-eighth of an inch, re- tained the composition perfectly, and remained sound and dry. From this we perceived that had we employed buffalo instead of elk skins, and not singed them so closely as we have done, carefully avoiamg to cut the leather in sewing, the boat would have been sufficient even with the i)resent composition, or had we singed instead of shaving the elk skins we might have succeeded. But we discovered our error too late : the buffalo had de- serted us, the travelling season was so fast ad- vancing that we had no time to spare for experi- ments, and therefore finding that she could be no longer useful she was sunk in the water, so as to soften the skins and enable us the more easily to take her to pieces. It now became necessary to provide other means for transporting the baggage which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall want two canoes, but for many miles below the mouth of the Muscleshell river to tais place, we have not seen a single tree fit to be used in that way. The hunters however who had hitherto been sent after timber, mention that there is a low ground on the opposite side of the river, about eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that distance by w^ater; in which we may probably find trees large enough for our pur- poses. Captain Clark therefore determined to set out by land for that place with ten of the best workmen who would be occupied in building the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to pieces and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage and join them with the other six canoes. 379 H LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION WorlnPsrlny lO.-lU m^cordlnffly pasHed over to the opposite side of the river with hin party, and proceeded on eight miles hy land, the distance by water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two eottonwood trees, but on cut- ting them down, one proved to be hollow, split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom. He searched the neighbourhood but could find none which would suit better and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had felled, shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the deficiency by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a loss for wood of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes of which not being round they were obliged to split the timber in such a manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day, though made of the best wood they could find for the purpose, which was the chokecherry. The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited it in a cmjhe or hole, with a draught of the country from fort Mandan to this place, and also some other papers and small arti- cles of less importance. After this we amused our- selves with fishing, and although we had thought on our arrival that there were none in this part of the river, we canght some of a species of white chub below the falls, but few in number, and small m size. Serjeant Ordway with four canoes and eight men had set sail in the morning, with par. oi' the ' baggage to the place where captain Clark had fixed his camp, but the wind was so high that he only reached within three miles of that pla<;e, and encamped for the night. Thursday, July ll.-In the morning one of the 380 TION ed over to party, and iBtance by rter miles. >ut on eut- tv, split at t damaged ibourhood etter and ose which to avoid )y making ially at a e handles ing round in such a >ke in the Bst wood was the the boat \ with a tt to this nail arti- ised our- thought his part of white ad small id eight >. oi' the a**»t'^ <^»«^r for them to take flHh Tlie blue-cre«ted flnher, <,r «^ it in Home- timeH called, the kinrf-flsher, !« an inhabitant of th,H part of the river; it is a bird rare on the Mis- Boun; mdml we had not seen more than three or four of them Irom its entrance to Maria's river, and even those did not seem to reside on the Misso.:-! but on some of the clearer streams which empty into it fW they were seennearthe mouths of those streams.' oniT" r'-^ i// -The mornii.;, bein^. fair and calm captain Lewis had all the remaining bao^^a^ em- barked on board the six canoes, which saiief with two men in eaeh f. the upper camp. Then with a sick man and the Indian woman, he left the encampment, and crossing over rhe river went on by land to join captain Olark. From the head of the Whitebear islands he proceeded in a southwest direction, at the distance of three miles, till he struck the Missouri, which he then followed till he reacdied the plaee where all the party were occu- pied in boat-building. On his way he passed a very large Indian lodge, which was probably de- signed as a great council-house, but i*. differs in Its construction from all that we have seen lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The form of It was a circle two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at the base, and composed of sixtee^i large cottonwood poles about fifty feet long, and at their thicker ends, which touched the ground about the size of a man's body: they were dis^ tributed at equal distances, except that one was omitted to the east, probably for the entrance, l.om the circumference of this circle the poles con- verged towai Jd the centre where thev were united and secured by large withes of willow brush 382 noN two ottei-„ HJnco the • them to t Ih Home- hitant of n the Mis- 1 three or river, and 18011 -i but ty into it, streams, and calm ^fige em- iled with hen with i left the went on B head of •uthwest h till he Bd till he ire occu- )a88ed a ably de- *; differs ^ve seen he form n feet in 'sixtee-xi ng, and ?round, ere dis- ne was trance, es con- imited brush. UP THE M18S0URI. There was no coverinK over thiw fabric, in the centre of which were the rein.ii:»K of a hirge fire, and round it the nuirkH of about eij^hty leathern lodg-es. lie alno naw a number of turtledoveH, and eorae pij-jeouH, of svhich Ik nhot one differing in no respict from the wild pigeon of the f'niU'd ►States. The country exhibits itw usual apiMjarances, the timber confined to the river, the country on both sides as far as the eye can reach being entirely destitute of trees or brush. In the low ground in which we avc ouilding the canoes, the timber is larger and more abundant than we have seen it on the Missouri for several hundred miles. The soil too is good, for the grass and weeds reach about two feet high, yeing the tallest wt havo observed this seastm, though on the high i)lain8 and prairies the grass is at no season above three inches in height. Among these weeds are the sandrush, and nettle in small quantities; the plains are still infested by great numbers of the small birds already m(ntioned, a u)ng whom iu the brown cur'ew. The current of the river is here extremely gentle; the buttblo hav^e not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three in very good order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, for as we reserve our parched meal for the Kocky mountains, where we do not expect to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and the consumption of the whole thirty twu persons belonging to the party, amounts to four deer an elk and a deer, or one buffalo every twenty-four hours. The mosquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as before, so that we can get no sleep unless defended by biers, with which we are all provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown to us, and of which we pre- served specimens. 38a KZ ^f fn fJ! i • ^^ !*!f LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION Sergeant Ordway proceeded with the six canoea five nnlen up the river, but the wind becoming so hifc^h as to wet the baggage he was obliged to unoad and dry it. The wind abated at five o c ock m the evening, when he again proceeded eight miles and encamped. The next morning Sunday July 14, he joined us about noon. %n leaving the Whitebear camp he passed at a short distance a little creek or run coming in on the le t Ihis had been already examined and called flattery run; it contains back water only with very extensive low grounds, which rising into large plains reach the mountains on Lhe east- then passed a willow island on the left within one mile and a half, and reached two miles further a cliff of rocks in a bend on the same side. Jn the course of another mile and a half he passed two islands covered with cottonwood, box-alder, sweet-wil- ow and the usual undergrowth, like that of the Whitebear islands. At thirteen and three quarter niiles he came to the mouth of a small creek on the left; withi^a the following nine miles he passed three timbered islands, and after making twenty- three and a quarter miles from the lower camp arrived at the point of woodland on the north where the canoes were constructed. The day was fair and warm; the men worked very industriously, and were enabled by the even- ing to launch the boats, which now want only seats and oars to be complete. One of them is twenty-five, the other thirty-three feet in length and three feet wide. Captain Lewis walked out between three and four milea over the rocky blufls to a high situation, two miles from the river, a httle below Fort Mountain creek. The couniry which he saw was in most parts level, but occa- sionally became varied by gentle rises and de- ITION > six canoes >ecoming so ' obliged to :ed at five 1 proceeded morning, noon. On at a short : in on the and called only, with •ising into east; then n one mile T a cliff' of the course wo islands sweet- wil- tiat of the ee quarter creek on he passed ? twenty- 'er camp, :he north I worked the even- ant only ' them is in length Iked out :ky blufls river, a country 3ut occa- and de- UP THE MISSOURI. ecents, but with no timber except along the water. From this position, the point at which the Mis- souri enters the first chain of the Rocky moun- tains bore south 28' west about twenty-five miles, according to our estimate. The northern extremity of that chain no'*th 73° west at the distance of eighty miles. To the same extremity of the second chain north 65° west one hundred and fifty miles. To the most remote point of a third and con- tinued chain of these mountains north 50^ west about two hundred miles. The direction of the first chain was from south 20' east to north 20' west; of the second, from south 45' east to north 45° west; but the eye could not reach their southern extremities, which most probably may be traced to Mexico. In a course south 75° west, and at the distance of eight miles is a mouiitain, which from its appear- ance we shall call Fort Mountain. It is situated in the level plain, and forms nearly a square, each side of which is a mile in extent. These sides, which are composed of a yellow clay with no mixture of rock or stone whatever, rise perpen- dicularly to the height of three hundred feet, where the top becomes a level plain covered, as captain Lewis now observed, with a tolerably fertile mould two feet thick, on which was a coat of grass similar to that of the plain below : it has the appearance of being perfectly inaccessible, and although the mounds near the falls somewhat re- semble it, yet none of them are so large. Vol. I.-25 38i M ' 1 ll • ,•' \ 1 i 1 LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION If' iu,. H f I (7 ^Hl- ' r ^^Hj 1 ■: ^ ■Hi ' ^^K|V i i CHAPTER XII. ^ rtvprrH"'^^"' °" ^'''^ ^^" canoes-Descrlptlon of Smith's ^J^ r""^' "' ^'^^ "^""^'-y- i«--I>earborn's river de! scribed-Captein Clark precedes the party for the purZe of d^coverlng the Indians of the Rocky mountains MagnTftn Gates of he Rocky mountains-Captain Clark arrives at the ThTparLr'^r^"^""^'^"* "-^-'^''^^ Tlndlan s- inSn7r.rn^rer ' " ^^^^^ ^ -— -^ ^o72^.^r, J„/,. I5r.-We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the canoes, which though hght in number are still heavily loaded, and at ten o clock set out on our journey. At the distance of three miles we passed an island, just above which 18 a small creek coming in from the left, which we called l^ort Mountain creek, the channel of which IB ten yards wide but now perfectly dry. At six miles we came to an island oppodte to a bend towards the north side; and reached at seven and a half miles the lower point of a woodland at the entrance of a beautiful river, which in honour of the secretary of the navy we called -Smith's river 1 his stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri, and is eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course it wound through a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds of buffalo were feeding, till at the distance of twenty-five miles it entered the Eockv mountains, and was lost from our view. After dining near this place we proceeded on four and three quarter miles to the head of an island: four and a quarter miles beyond which is a second island on the left; three and a quarter miles fur- S8G A,^i4«<^»wv''r'- UP THE MISHOUIU. ther in a bend of the river towards the north, is H wood where we encamped for the ni^-ht, after making nineteen and three quarter miles. We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as the greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to this place, is here very abun- dant aiid in bloom. The lambs-quarter, wild-cu- cumber, sandrush, and narrowdock are also com- mon. Two elk, a deer, and an otter, were our game to-day. The river has now become so much more crooked than below that we omit taking all its short meanders, but note only its general course, and lay down the small bends on our daily chart by the eye. The general width is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards. Along the banks are large beds of sand raised above the plains, and as they always appear on the sides of the river opposite to the southwest exposure, seem obviously brought there from the channel of the river by the incessant winds from that quarter: we find also more timber than for a great dis- tance below the falls. Tuesday i6.~There was a heavy dew last night. We soon passed about forty little booths, formed of willow bushes as a shelter against the 8un. These seemed to have been deserted about ten days, and as we supposed by the Snake Indiaix., or Shoshonees, whom we hope soon to meet, as they appeared from the tracks to have a number of horses with them. At three and three quarter miles we passed a creek or run in a bend on the left side, and four miles further another run or small rivulet on the right. After breakfasting on a buffalo shot by one of the hunters, captain 387 f I Ml'! i LIOWIS ANF) CI.AKK S RXPKDITION T.('wiH rcHolvod to ^r<, „„ aluvul of the party to the point wIkto the river ontorH tlu. Rocky inoimtainH and mak(^ the iieceHnary obHervatioiiH before our ttrriv«il. He th(>n>for(^ Het out with Drewyer and two of the Hick men to whon. he HuppoHed the walk would be UHefuI: he tra,velh>d on the north Hide of the river throu^^h a, handHonie level i)lain wlueh continued on the opposite Hide alno, and at the diHtanee of eiKht niilen pasHcd a Hinall Htream on which he obHerv(>d a couHiderable (piantity of the «Nj.en tree. A little before twelve o'clock he halted on a bend to the north in a low ground well covered with timber, about four and a half inileH below thc^ uiountaiiiH, and obtained a meri- dian altitude, by which he found the latitude was N. 4(r 4(i 50' 2. His route tlien lay throu^^h a Iii^-h wavin^r plain to a rapid where the AlinHouri hrnt leaveH the Itocky mountaiuH. and here he eu- camped for the ni^ht. In the meantime ^ve had proceeded after break- fast one mile to a bend in the left, oi)poHite to which was the frame of a large lodge situated in the prairie, constructed like that already men- tioned above the VVliitebear islands, but only sixty feet in diameter: round it were the remains of about eighty leathern lodges, all which seemed to have been built during the last autumn; within the next fifteen and a quarter miles we passed ten inlands, on the last of which we encamped near the right shore, having made twenty-three miles The next morning, \Vo(lm's(hij 17, we set out early, and at four miles distance joined captain Lewis at the foot of the rapids, and after breakfast began the passage of them: some of the articles most liable to be in- jured by the Avater were carried round. We then double manned the canoes, and with the aid of the 888 ITION arty to the ' inonntainH bdbro our •owycr and ipjxwd the I the north lovcl ])lHin, Iho, ami at mil Htroain liiantity of* o'clock he >w ground find a half ih1 a niori- bitudc was throu|«;h a e MiHHouri lere he eu- ftcr break- )l)OHite to lituated in ady men- only Bixty L'niains of seemed to II ; within assed ten »ped near iree miles. I at four le foot of ! passage to be in- VVe then tid of the UP THE MIS.SOUUT. towing-line got them up without accident For Hoveral miles below the rapids the current of the Missouri becomes stronger as you appro/u^h, and the spurs of the mountain advance towards the river, which is deei) and not more than si'ventv yards wi(h^- at the rapids the river is closelv hemmcMl in <.n both sides by the hills, and foams tor half a mile over the rocks which obstruct its channel. The lowgrounds are now not more than a few yards in width, but they furnish room for an Indian road which winds under the hills on the north Hide of the river. The general range of these lulls IS from southeast to northwest, and the clifflu themselves are about eight hundred feet ab(,ve the water, formed almost entirely of a hard blm-k grmnte, on which are scattered a few dwarf pine and cedar trees. Immediately in tin. gap is a large rock four hundred feet In-gh, which on one Bide ,8 washed by the Missouri, while on its other Bides a handsome little plain sei)arates it from the neighbouring mountains. Jt may he ascended with some difficulty nearly to its sun.mit, and affords a beautiful prospect of the plains below, in which we could observe large herds (if buffalo After ascending the rapids for half a mile we came to a small island at the head of them, which we called Pine island from a large pine tree at the lower end of it, which is the first we have seen near the river for a great distance. A mile beyond captain J.ewis's camp we had a meridian altitude which gave us the latitude of 4(5' 42' 14" 7 As the canoes were still heavily loaded all those net employed in working them walked on shore J he navigation is now very laborious. The river 18 deep but With little current and from stventy to one hundred yards wide; the low grounds are Very narrow, with but little timber and that chiefly the 889 1 1 i \( ;, in ,f III ' 1 LEWIS AND CLARK'S RXPEDTTTON aspen tree. The clittH are nteep and hang over the river ho n.uch that often we could not crows them, but were obliged to pass and repass from one side of the river to the other in order to make our way. In some phiees the banks are formed of rocks, of dark black granite rising perpendicularly toagreat height, through which the river seems in the progress of time to have worn its channel. On these mountains we see more pine than usual, but It is still in small quantities. Along the bottoms, which have a covering of high grass, we observe the sunflower blooming in great abundance. ^J^he Indians of the Missouri, and more especially those who do not cultivate; maize, make great use of the seed of this plant for bread or in thickening their SOU]). They first parch and then pound it between two stones until it is reduced to a fine meal. Sometimes they add a portion of water, and drink it thus diluted: at other times they add a sufficient proportion of marrow grease to reduce it to the consistency of common dough and eat it in that manner. This last composition we preferred to all the rest, and thought it at that time a very palat- able dish. There is however little of the broad- leafed Cottonwood on this side of the falls, much the greater part of what we see being of the nar- row-leafed species. There are also great quai:ti- ties of red, purple, yellow and black currants. The currants are very pleasant to the taste, and much preferable to those of our common garden. The bush rises to the height of six" or eight feet; the stem simple, branching and erect. These shrubs associate in corps either in upper or tim- bered lands near the water courses. The leaf is petiolate, of a pale green, and in form resembles the red currant so common in our gardens. I^he perianth of the fruit is one leaved, five cleft, ab- 390 *..<»».«<.»w*^"~^_ • •TTION m^jr over the croHs them, oni one side a make our formed of >endiculnrly rer seeniH in tiannel. On 1 usual, but e bottoms, we observe lance. 'J'he iially those b use of the ening their it between fine meal, and drink a sufficient 'i it to the it in that ?rred to all ^ery palat- he broad- alls, much 3f the nar- it quaiitl- currants. taste, and n garden, sight feet; It. These r or tim- he leaf is resembles ens. The cleft, ab- TJI' THE MISSOTJRI. breviated and tubular. The corolla is monopetal- louH, funnel-shaped, very long, and of'afine orange colour. There are five stamens and one pistillum of the first, the filaments are cai)illar, inserted in the corolla, erpial and converging, the anther ovate and incumbent. The germ of the second si)ecies is round, smooth, inferior and pedicelled: the style long and thicker than the stamens, sim- ple, cylindrical, smooth and erect. It remains with the corolla until ti:e fruit is ripe; the stamen is simple and obtuse, and the fruit much the size and shape of our common garden currants, grow- ing like them in clusters supported by a com[)ound footstalk. The peduncles are longer in this spe- cies, and the berries are more scattered. The fruit is not so acid as the common currant, and has a more agreeable flavour. The other species differs in no respect from the yellow currant excei)ting in the colour and flavour of the berries. The serviceberry differs in some point.-i from that of the United States. The bushes are small, some- times not more than two feet high, and rarely exceed eight inches. They are proportionably small in their stems, growing very thickly, asso- ciated in clumps. The fruit is of the same form, but for the most part larger and of a very dark purple. They are now ripe and in great perfec- tion. There are two species of gooseberry here, but neither of them yet ripe : nor are the choke- cherry, though in great quantities. Besides there are also at that place the box alder, red willow and a species of sumach. In the evening we saw some mountain rams or big-horned animals, but no other game of any sort. After leaving Pine island we passed a small run on the left, which is formed by a large spring rising at the distance of a91 ^ 1^1 i to IJOWIS AND CLAUK'H KXI»KI)ITI()N H mile under the mountmn. One niilo and half half /ihove the Inland tx iH another, and tw 111 ii - () iiiileH further a third inhnul, the river niakln^r Huiall bendH conntantly to the north. From this hiHt iHland to a point of roekH on the Houth Hide the low ^ToundH heeonie rather wi a very levon and ('fore our ijn-Iionu'd I' rot'lvH ill Jew inac- eiieniieH, n\g thene scarcely i^:lo fiilHc hundred larter we the wanie ' a hirji^e i a liand- ■dH wide, with a h stones ly trans- fc possese : and it , though as the ountain- 7e called cious to ians, for informa- orses, it UP TIFFO MFSSOlIUr. was thought best lor one of um to go forward with /I Htual' vMirty and endeavour to discover them, before the daily discharge of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give them notic(^ of our ai>proach: if by an lu-cident they h(.ar us, they will most probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for tlu'ir enemies who usually^ /ittm-.k them on this side. Accordingly captain (Jlark set out with thn-c^ men, and fol- lowed the course of the river on the north side; but the hills were so st(!ep at lirst that he was not able to go much faster than ourselves. In the evening however he cut off many miles of the cir- cuitous course of the river, by crossing a moun- tain over which he found a wide Indian road which in many plm-es seems to have been cut or dug down in the earth, lie passed also two branches of a stream which he called Ordway's creek, where he saw a number of beaver-dams ex- tending in close succession towards the mountains as far as lu^ could distinguish: on the cliffs were many of the big-horned animals. After crossing this mountain he encamped near a small stream of running water, having travelled twenty miles. On leaving Dearborn's river we passed at three and a half miles a small creek, and at six beyond it an island on the north side of the river, which makes within that distance many small bends. At two and a half miles further is another island: three quarters of a mile beyond this is a small creek on the north side. At a mile and a half above the creek is a much larger stream thirty yards wide, and discharging itself with a bold current on the north side: the banks are low, and the bed formed of stones altogether. To this stream we gave the name of Ordway's creek, after sergeant John Ordway. At two miles beyond |!iW LIOWIH AM) (^LAIIKS MXIMODITI ON thiH tho vhII(\v wid< tlu iih: wc |>mhh(<<1 Hovonil ImmkIm of nv(«r, hikI (>ncMiiip<>(I in tho coiitn' of ^lio Houtli, luiviiivi: nm«l(> twriit <>in» on .V-<»"i' mlloH. Ilm^ w<« loiiiul H Hinnii Kn.v(. of tlio luirrow-h.nJhl cot- ton wood, (lu'iv iH'inw; n«. lonjfor .uiy <»r t\w hroiul- Icalhl kind Hinro wo oiitcn.d tho iMouiitnlnH Tho vvutor of MioHo riviih.tH whiHi como down ihmi tlio niountninH in very redd. purr, and wHI t/.Htvd Alonw: Mu'ir hnnkn hh sxvW m on tli,. MiHHouri M,o UHpi.si ,H very ('.wiinion. hut «.f a Huinll kind 'V\w nveriMH.»t,u.wluit wider Mum we found it yoHtor- Orty; tiso liiiJH inoro diHtnnt from Mic nvor and not BO liiKli: thoro arc Hon.o pim-H on tin. nionntninH, but thoy arc princip/ijjy conlliu.d to the uppor rvK'uuvA »»f Mmmu: tlio low ^nMindn .,ro Htill nar. row.T and have little or no tind.rr. Tho Hoil noar tho rivor iH ^rocd. nnd pnuinccH a luxuriant Mfrowth of ^.raHH and w.rdH: anions- th,w produc- tions tho HunMowor I.oI.Ih a vory diHtin«uiHh(.d pl»M?e. |.\>r Hovj'ral da.yH pa.Ht wo hn vo ol,H«>rvo broiu]. iliiH. Tho I iroin tho II tflHhMl. HHOIII'i Mu» iiHl. Tho it .VCHttT- r and not ountninH, Ih' llplKT Htill nnr- Noil ncnr uxuriaiit ' prodnc- n^iiiHlicd >w>rv(Ml a h'Mf'-Htoni tho flax ^tt'H; tho or three t or ten Imrk fip- lecniH to cuttinjy , for al- e young t»neo we ^1*0 \vn produce rvation 5 which To-day smaller ni' TIIH MISSOIIIir. than the fJrMt, an it Heldoni olitahiM a greater height than nine or twelve inclieH; the h'al" and Hteni reMenihle thoH(«olthe HptM-icM juMt mentioned, except that i\w latt M Wf f||M I * ^ 'I I hKW'lH AND CLAKK-s KXfEDITlOiN Hkin: the beHt rosourco nK^nin^t then, jh a Hole c,f MimUo hide „ ,>Hrelnn.nt. At ,..,,htt!,ey rearhed he nver nnu-h latiKiM.l, havi,.^. paHHe..^. ,, ^..^.^ sublime and extraordinary spectacle. For five and three quarter miles these rocks rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of nearly twelve hundred fee. Thev are composed of a black granite near its base, bat iroin Its lighter colour above and from the frag- meuts we suppose the upper part to be flint of a *^#«N*i|h^\. .y . riuN a sole of 'y reached vvo inoun- in^ truv- t employ. nminihcr. cry Mvl\, « rapidity t*K Htroiig <' nij)i(l8, !)ckH, and 'livd and inlleHwe iv(T and nd tl'ree i'("<'k in a lie ri^ht K>ut ten 'Hin and the day we are I'le; yet tops of view of [lew and orpine, I'eyond >n both I'dinary '8 these 's edge They se, but e frag- iit of a UP TlilO MISSOIIIU. yollowish brown and cream (•oh)ur. Nothinjrean Ih' imagined more treniendous than tin? Ihiwninj^ darkness «.r these nn-ks, which projirt over thj river and menace us with destruction. The river, of one hundred and lllty yards in width, seens u\ have forced its channel down this soUd mass, but HO reluctantly has it Miven way that during the whoh; distance t!ie water is very deep even at the edges, and for the flr^t thret^ ndk's there is not a spot except one of a few yanis, in which a man could stand between the water and tlie towering perpendicular ot the mountain: the convulsion of the passage must have been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns of rock torn from the niountain which arc strewed on both sides of the river, the trophies as it were of the victory. .Several fine springs burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the river, which has now a strong current, but very for- tunately we are able to overcome it with our oars, since it would be impossible to use either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to encamp on, but at length about two miles above a small island in the middle of the river we met .rith a spot on the left side, where we procured plenty of light wood and pitchpine. This extraordinary* range of rocks we called the dates of the Kocky mountains. We liad made twenty-two miles; and four and a quarter miles from the entrance of the gates. The moun- tains are higher to-day than they were yesterday. We saw some big-horns, a few antelopes and beaver, but since entering the mountains have found no buffalo : the otter are however in great plenty : tiie mosquitoes have become less trouble- some than they were. a97 M mj 3- < J • ' I' il:; tj 5 'Eli If im p. LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION Saturday 20.— By employing the towrope when- ever the banks permitted the use of it, the river being too deep for the pole, we were enabled to overcome the current which is stiH strong. At the distance of half a mile we came to a high rock in a bend to the left in the Gates. Here the perpen- dicular rocks cease, the hills retire from the river, and the valleys suddenly widen to a greater extent than they have been since we entered the moun- tains. At this place was some scattered timber, consisting of the narrow-leafed cotton wood, the aspen, ani pine. There are also vast quantities of gooseberries, serviceberries, and several species of currant, among which is one of a black colour, the flavour of which is preferable to that of the yel- low, and would be deemed superior to that of any currant in the United States. We here killed an elk which was a pleasant addition to our stock of food. At a mile from the Gates, a large creek comes down from the mountains and empties itself behind an island in the middle of a bend to the north. To this stream which is fifteen yards wide we gave the name of Potts's creek, after John Potts, one of our men. Up this valley about seven miles we discovered a great smoke, as if the whole country had been set on fire; but were at a loss to decide whether it had been done accidentally by captain Clark's party, or by the Indians as a sig- nal on their observing js. We afterwards learnt that this last was the fact; for they had heard a gun fired by one of captain Clark's men, and be- lieving that their enemies were approaching had fled into the mountains, first setting fire to the plains as a warning to their countrymen. We continued our course along several islands, and having made in the course of the day fifteen miles, encamped just above an island, at a spring on a 398 -Mw^^^r^^C^-i,- nON ope when- the river nabled to ?. At the ?h rock in tie perpen- the river, ter extent he moun- i timber, t^ood, tlie -ntities of jpecies of jlcur, the r the yel- at of any killed an stock of 'ge creek ties itself d to the rds wide ter John )ut seven he whole it a loss itally by as a sig- is learnt '. heard a and be- ing had e to the len. We ids, and n miles, ng on a UP THE MISSOUKI. high bank on the left side of the river. In the lat- ter part of the evening we had passed through a low range of mountains, and the country became more open, though still unbroken and without timber, and the lowlands not very extensive : and just above our camp the river is again closed in by the mountains. We found on the banks an elk which captain Clark had left us, with a note men- tioning that he should pass the mountains just above us and wait our arrival at some convenient place. We saw but could not pursue some red- headed ducks and sandhill cranes along the sides of the river, and a woodpecker about the size of the lark- woodpecker, which seems to be a distinct species : it is as black as a crow with a long tail, and flies like a. jaybird. The whole country is so infested by the prick'y pear that we could scarcely find room to lie down at our camp. Captain Clark on setting out this morning had gone through the valley about six miles to the right of the river. He soon fell into an old Indian road which he pursued till he reached the Mis- souri, at the distance of eighteen miles from his last encampment, just above the entrance of a large creek, which we afterwards called Whiteearth creek. Here he found his party so much cut and pierced with the sharp flint and the prickly pear that he proceeded only a small distance farther, and then halted to wait for us. Along his track he had taken the precaution to strew signals, such as pieces of cloth, paper and linen, to prove to the Indians, if by accident they met his track, that we were white men. But he observed a smoke some distance ahead, and concluded that the whole country had now taken the alarm. Sunday 21.— On leaving our camp we passed an island at half a mile, and reached at one mile a 399 |if LEWIS AND CLARK'S EXPEDITION ?j '•t B !■ i ■ if bad rapid at the place where the river leaves the mountain: here the cliffs are high and covered with fragments of broken rocks, the current is also strong, but although more rapid the river is wider and shallower, so that we are able to use the pole occasionally, though we principally de- pend on the towline. On leaving the rapid which is about half a mile in extent, the country opens on each side ; the hills become lower ; at one mile is a large island on the left side, and four and a half beyond it a large and bold creek twenty- eight yards wide, coming in from the north, where it waters a handsome valley: we called it I'ryor's creek after one of the sergeants, John Pryor. At a mile above this creek on the left side of the Missouri we obtained a meridian altitude, which gave 4(r 10 82" 1) as the latitude of the place. For the following four miles, the country, like that through which we passed during the rest of the day, is rough and mountainous as we found it yesterday ; but at the distance of twelve miles, we came towards evening into a beautiful plain ten or twelve miles wide, and extending as far as the eye could reach. This plain or rather valley is bounded by two nearly parallel ranges of high mountains whoso summits are partially covered with snow, below which the pine is scatte..'ed along the sides down to the plain in some places, though the greoter part of their surface has no timber and exhibits only a barren soil with no covering except dry parched grass or black rugged rocks. On entering the valley the river assumes a totally different aspect : it spreads to more than a mile in width, and though more rapid than before, is shallow enough in almost every part for the use of the pole, while its bed is formed of smooth stones and some large rocks, as it has been indeed 400 TION • leaves the id covered current is ;he river is ible to use leipally de- ipid which ntry opens It one mile bur and a k twenty- rth, where it Pry or 's Pryor. At ide of the jde, which the place. y, like that est of the B found it B miles, we I plain ten far as the r valley is es of high ly covered scattered me places, ice has no 1 with no ick rugged assumes a ore than a lan before, for the use 3f smooth een indeed UP THE MISg URI. since we entered the mountains : it is also divided by a number of islands some of which are large near the northern shore. The soil of the valley is a rich bhick loam ai)parently very fertile, and covered with a fine green grass about eighteen inches or two feet in height; while that of the high grounds is perfectly dry and seems scorched by the sun. The timber though still scarce is in greater quantities in this valley than we have seen it since entering the mountains, and seems to pre- fer the borders of the small creeks to the banks of the river itself. We advanced three and a half miles in this valley and encamped on the left side, having made in all fifteen and a half miles. Our only large game to-day was one deer. We saw however two pheasants of a dark brown colour, much larger than the same species of bird in the United States. In the morning too, we saw three swans which, like the geese, have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing, and were un- able to fly : we killed two of them, and the third escaped by diving and passirn^ down the current. These are the first we have seen on the river for a great distance, and as they had no young with them, we presume that they do not breed in this neighbourhood. Of the geese we daily see great numbers, with their young perfectly feathered ex- cept on the wings, where both young and old are deficient; the first are very fine food, but the old ones are poor and unfit for use. Several of the large brown or sandhill crane are feeding in the low grounds on the grass which forms their prin- cipal food. The young crane cannot fly at this season : they are as large as a turkey, of a bright reddish bay colour. Since the river has become shallow we have caught p, number of trout to- day, and a fish, white on the belly and sides, but Vol. I.--2G 401 ^' y' ' : ! ' ! ; S. f! i LEWIS AND CLAKK'S EXPEDITION of a bluish cast on the back, and a lony; pointed mouth opening; Konievvhat like that of the shad. . This morning captain Clark wishing to hunt but fearful of alarming the Indians, went up the river for three miles, when finding neither any of them nor of their recent tracks returned, and then his little party separated to look for game. They killed two bucks 'and a doe, and a young curlew nearly feathered : in the evening they found the musquitoes as troublesome as we did : these ani- mals attack us as soon as the labours and fatigues of the day require some rest, and annoy us till beveral hours after dark, when the coldness of the air obliges them to disappear; but such is their persecution that were it not for our biers we should obtain no repose. Mondny, 22.— We set out at an early hour. The river being divided into so many channels by both large and small islands, that it was impossible to lay it down accurately by following in a canoe any single channel, captain Lewis walked on shore, took the general courses of the river, and from the rising grounds laid down the situation of the islands and channels, which he was enabled to do with perfect accuracy, the view not being ob- structed by much timber. At one mile and a quarter we passed an island somewhat larger than the rest, and four miles further reached the upper end of another, on which we breakfasted. This is a large island forming in the middle of a bend to the north a level fertile plain ten feet above the surface of the water and never over- flowed. Heie we found great quantities of a small onion about the size of a musket ball, though some were larger; it is white, crisp, and as well flavoured as any of our garden onions ; the seed is just ripening, and as the plant bears a large quan- 402 li i 111 TION >nii; pointed the Bhad, . ii; to hunt ent up the her any of I, and then bme. They 11 n^ curlew found the these ani- iid fatigues noy us till 1088 of the eh is their biers we Wur. The il8 by both )08sible to in a canoe valked on river, and ituation of enabled to ; being ob- lile and a tiat larger 3ached the eakfasted. liddle of a a ten feet ever over- of a small II, though id as well :he seed is irge quan- • UP THE MISSOmil. tity to the square foot, and stands the rigours of the climate, it will no doubt be an acquisition to settlers, l rora this production we called it Onion island. During the next seven and three quarter miles we passed several long circular bends, and a number of large and small islands which divide the river into many channels, and then reached the mouth of a creek on the north side. It is com- posed of three creeks which unite in a handsome valley about four miles before they discharge themselves into the Missouri, where it is about fifteen feet wide and eight feet deep, with clear transparent water. Here we halted for dinner but as the canoes took different channels in as' cending it was some time before they all joined Here we were delighted t , find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; she tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to procure a white paint on its banks, and we there- fore call it Whiteearth creek. She says also that the three forks of the Missouri are at no great distance, a piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits of us all, as we hope soon to reaxjh the head of that river. This is the warmest day ex- cept one we have experienced this summer. In the shade the mercury stood at 80° above 0, which is the second time it has reached that height during this season. We encamped on an island after mak- mg nineteen and three quarter miles In the course of the day we saw many geese cranes, small birds common to the plains, and a few pheasants: we also observed a small plover or curlew of a brown colour, about the size of the yellow-legged plover or jack curlew, but of a dif- ferent species. It first appeared near the mouth of bmith s river, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable to shoot it. Both the broad and 403 »■ i LEWIS AND CLAKK'S EXPEDITION I h E -; Hi narrow-leafed willow continue, though the sweet willow IwiH become very Hcarce. The roHebimh, email honeysuckle, the pulpy-leafed thorn, south- ern wood, sa|»e and box-alder, narrow-lealed Cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all abundant. So too are the red and black jjfooseberries, serviceberries, chokecherry, and the black, red, yellow, and ])uri)le currant, which last seems to be a favourite food of the bear. IJefore encamping- Ave landed and took on board cai)tain Clark with the meat he had ct»llected durinui; this day's hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk: we had ourselves shot a deer and an ante- lope. The mosquitoes and gnats were unusually tierce this evening. Tuesdny, i^fV.— Captain Clark again proceeded with four men along the right bank. During the whole day the river is divided by a number of islands, which spread it out sometimes to the dis- tance of three miles : the current is very rapid and has many rii)[)les; and the bed formed of gravel and smooth stones. The banks along the low grounds are of a rich loam, followed t)ccasionally by loAv bluffs of yellow and red clay, Avith a hard red slatestone intermixed. The low grounds are wide, and have very little timber but a thick underbrush of AvilloAV, and rose and currant bushes : these are succeeded by high plains extend- ing on each side to the base of the mountains, Avhich lie parallel to the river about eight or tAveh'e miles apart, and are high and rocky, with some small pine and cedar interspersed on them. At the distance of seA'en miles a creek tAventy yards Avide, after meandering through a beautiful loAv ground on the left for seA'eral miles i)arallel to the river, empties itself near a cluster of small islands: the stream Ave called Whitehouse creek 404 ■«ii**'««!£;^c^^te- [ON he sweet osebuHli, 1, HOUth- »\v-lettled naeh, are 1(1 black and the hieh last IJefore I cai)tain finji;- this * and an an ante- nuHually roeeeded iring the imber of the dia- ipid and )i' gravel the low isionally 1 a hard iindH are a thick currant i extend- iintains, >ight or ky, with )n them. twenty jeautiful rallel to of small se creek UP TIIK MfSSOURI. after Joseph Whitehouse, one of the party, and the is lands from their number received the name of the Jen islands." About ten o'ch,ck we came up with Drewyer, who had gor.e out to hunt yester- day, and not being able to And our encampment had staid out all night: he now supplied us with five deer. Three and a quarter miles beyond Whitehouse creek we came to the lower point of an island where the river is three hundred yards wide and continued along it for one mile and a quarter and then passed a second island just above It We halted rather early for dinner in been wet in the canoes: we then proceeded, and at five and a half miles had passed two small islands. Withm the next three miles we came to a large i« and, which from its figure we called Broad island. Prom that place we made three and a half nules, and encamped on an island to the left opposite to a much larger one on the right Our journey to-day was twenty-two and a quarter miles, the greater part of which was made bv nieans of our poles and cords, the use of which the banks much favoured. During the whole time we had the small flags hoisted in the canoes to apprise the Indians, if there were any in the neigh- bourhood, of our being white men and their triends; but we were not so fortunate as to dis- cover any of them. Along the shores we saw great quantities of the common thistle, and pro- ' ired a further supply of wild onions and a species of garhc growing on the highlands, which is now green and in bloom: it has a flat leaf, and is strong, tough, and disagreeable. There was also " much of the wild flax, of which we now obtained some npe seed, as well as some bullrush and cat- tail flag. Among the animals we met with a 405 I' 1 u LICVVIS AND CLAIIK'S KXI'KDITTON black Hiiakc about t wo i'vot lonjj;, with t\w belly uh dark an any otluT part of the body, which wan IM'rti'ctly black, and which had one hnndrcd and twcnty-ci^ht Hcuta on the belly and Hixty-three on tli(» tnil: we alHo hhw antelo;)(>H, crane, j^ecHe, duckH, beaver, and otter; and took up four deer which had been h'ft on the water Hide by captain (Mark, lie had purHued all day an Indian road on the ri^ht Hide of the river, and encamped late i!i the evening at the (lintance of twenty-five miles from our camp of biHt ninht. In the courHC of IiIh walk he met bcHideH deer a number of antelo[)eH and a herd of elk, but all the trackn of IndiauH, tliouv;h numerouH, were of an old date. W<>(Iiiosk nnother outh^t, and hh noon an thin IH eHeeted the ehnnn..| ntopped by Uu^ beaver be- eonuv: filled with >iiud and Hand. 'fin. induHtriouH animal in then driven to another eh/innel whieh Hoon HhareH the name liite, till the river Hi.readn on /111 HideH, and entn th(. i)r(»jeetin^r ,,„i„tH (,f the land into iHlandH. We kille the union of five streams, which descenci from the mountains and join in the plain near the river. On this island we saw a larjfe brown bear, but he retreated t) the shore and ran off '^efore we could approach him. These animals seeni more shy than they were below the mountains. The antelopes have ajyain collected in small herds, comi)oHed of several females with their young, attended by one or two males, though some of the males are still solitary or wander in parties of two over the plains, which the antelope invariably prefers to the woodlands, and to which it always retreats if by accident it 16 found straggling in the hills, confiding no doubt in its wonderful fieetness. We also killed a few young geese, but as this game is small and very incompetent to the subsistence of the party, we have forbidden the men any longer to waste their ammunition on them. About four and a half miles above (J ass's creek, the valley in which we have been travelling ceases, the high craggy clifts again approach the river, which now enters or rather leaves what appears to be a second great chain of the Iloci^y mountains. About a mile after entering these hills or lovr mountains we passed a number of fine bold springs, which burst out near the edge of the river under the cliffs on the left, and furnished a fine freestone water: near these we met with two of the w^orst rapids we have seen since entering the mountains; a ndge of sharp pointed rocks stretching across the river, leaving but small and dangerous channels for the naviga- tion. The cliflTs are of a lighter colour than those 409 (' m M i. i 1.^ ^ !i J i 1; . I P If I'll LKVVIH AND CLAUK'H EXPEDITION wo lia^/e nlrrady panRod, and In the Ih»(1 of the river Ih Hoine linieHtone which in Hnuill ami worn Hniooth, and HeeniH to have Ixjen bronglit down by the current. We went aliout a niik^ further and encamped under a hi^h hluttOn the ri^ht oppoHito to a cliff" of HK'kH, having made Hixteen miles. All these cliffH appeared to have been under- mined by the water at some period, and fallen down from the hills on their sides, the stratas of rock sometinu'K lyin^ with their ed^"> ■"ountains does not prom 1 ' **" '" *'"*« '"noes, so that our el efderl ^ ""'^ "' *° "'"'e "ome trii,e from whom we "'"'' °" '»«'«''« Our consolation is that th'' "'■°""-'' '•"«'^« can scarcely head ;ith anl ' h'™*''"'*''* '"•»■'«'» Columbia, and that «-an/n« '''™' *'"»" ^l-^ ''™ in the mountain we ZZ "' ""'''"" ««» much as they, and have even b^tt *° '""''"' «« einng subsistence. **"■■ •"<«»"« of pro- END OF VOLUME I. ■^-T & Defence BXIA 416 ' a one as ^ were we river, the in these to make 1 meeting e horses. t branch ihan the ians can idure as of pro-