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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. rata > elure. 3 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 37 'y\P^'^^ NORTH POLAR EXPEDITION. ^i ^i J-^ N\)^T jr> lliin'iHi. KriuriiMitU \ rihiliiiu. Sr !**• 5^ A'i V V ■V X I / iHlK'lItt 1 IIUti«lll« >■. ' . .=1 ss I NARRATI\'F or Tim NORTH POLAR EXPEDITION. U. S. SHIP POLARIS, °-x... .„^,,^ ^^^^^ ^^^ oo„«....^<,. BDITBD UNUBR THE DIRECTION OV THE Hon. G. M. ROBESON, SECKETABY OI Thk navv. By n^n.A:o^,^^^ a, H. OAVIS, U. S. N. U. S. NAVAL OBSERVATORY, 1S76. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT Primtix,^ PRINTING OFFICE. 1876. !v' ^\V^^\.,|.Lz"^ J This narrative has be«ii prepared from official papers and from journals of the officers and men of the Expedition, as well as from valuable private contributions acknowledged in the text. The thread of the story of the Polaris has been drawn chiefly from a compilation made by Mr. K. W. D. Bryan, the Astronomer of the Expedition ; the incidents of the ice-floe party have been furnished by the journals and note-books of Geo. E. Tyson, Assistant l^avigator, and of others with him on the floe, and by the testimony given before the board organized by the Secretary of the Navy, June 5, 1873. I. if 1 NOTE. The final revision and proof-correction of Chapters XIX to XXV having been entrusted to me by Admiral Davis at the time of his fail- ing health, I have endeavored to present this part of the Narrative with the accuracy which he would have approved. J. E. NOURSE, Prof. U. S. N. U. S. Naval Obsekvatory, March 30, 1877. A photolithograph of Hall's last dispatch, brought from New- man's Bay by the late English Expedition and forwarded by Sir George Nares to the Navy Department, is inserted at page 170 of this edition. J. E. N. U. S. Naval Observatory, March 1, 1878. XXV is fail- 'rative N. New- )y Sir 170 of . N. CONTENTS. TABLE OF CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION Pago. 17-81 CU AFTER I. Captam Hall's Arrival in Wasbington-Leoturo-Congre^sional Action-Commieeion-Selection and Fatting Out of the Periwinkle-Instructions of the Secretary of the Navy-Voyage from Wash.ngtoa to New York-Complement-Eeception o?Hall by the Americau Geographi- cal Socety-Hall's Objects and Views-The Smith's Sound Route-Ultimate Purpose .... 25-43 OnAPTER II. Voyage from New London to St. John'o-Fiekernaes-Lichtenfels-Holsteinborg-Swedish Scieu- t.floExpod,t.on-Godhavu-TheUuitedState8ShipCongre88-Upernavik-Han8Hendrick- King-itoke-Tcssi-Ussak-l'iospeots on Leaving this Port „_Qg CHAPTER III. Sailing Directions on Leaving Tessi-Ussak-Crossing Melville Bay-Cape York-Wolstenholmo Sound-Walrus-Passing Cape Alexander-Smith's Sound Found Open-Seekinga Harbor- Kennedy Channel-First Discovery-Highest Point Reached qq_qq CHAPTER IV. Drifting to the Sonth--Seeking a Harbor-Consultation-Beset-A Nip-Placing Stores on the Ice-CastingOff-Steamingin to the Land-AtAnchor in "Thank-God Harbor" 89-106 CHAPTER V. Providence Berg-Character of the Land-Cape Lupton-Surveys-Preparations for Winter- Ice Movements-A Wearisome Walk-A Huntiug Party-A Musk-ox Seen-Tidal Obscrva- EsTat;; hT"7' ??7 "'''" ''*' Polaris-Preparations for Sledge-journey-Routine ii-stablished on Board the Polaris 103-138 CHAPTER VI. Ilall-s Instructions to Budington-Starts on Sledge-journey-Account of the Journey-Last S.gh of to Sun-Newman's Bay-Cape Brevoort-Higbest Point Reached on Land-DTs- pateh, to the Secretary of the Navy, Deposited-A fitorm-The Return to the Ship 141 ro " Contents. CHAPTER VII. Captaiu Hull's Sickness, Death, and Burial ^»e»- 173-185 CHAPTER VIII. Hairs First Interest in Arctic Exploration-His Expedition of 1860-63 and its Results-Rolics of lrob,sher'sExpeda.ons-Hall'sSecond Expedition, 1864-69-His Letter to JudgeC.P Daly thrPdal ."^^^^ 189-214 CHAPTER IX. Employment of the Crew of the Polaris during the Sickness of Captain Hall 217.223 CHAPTER X. CommandofthePolarisDevolveson Captain Budington-Consnltation between CaptainBading- ton and Dr. Bessels-Lime Juice Regularly Served-A Severe Storm-The Polaris Adrift- Protected by Providence Berg-A Southwest Gale-The Polaris Driven toward the Shore- IhnnksgivingDay 227-249 CHAPTER Xr. A Busy Crew-Halos and Auroras-Strain on the Ve.sel-Making Sledges-Christmas Eve- Chr.stmas D.nner-Situation of the Polaris-Discomforts-Welcoming the New Year- Amount of Coal on Hand 253-271 CHAPTER XII. Blasting Ice Aoont the Vessel-Pendulum Observations-Increasing Twilight-Aurora^Health tTon " 7,Zr ^'''" " """"""^ Strait-Short Excursions from the Polaris-Observa- tions with the Magnetometer-Heavy Gales 275-292 CHAPTER XIII. A *^^teor-Auroras and Magnetic Disturbances-Amusements-Paraselena3-Dr. Bessels' Sketch of a Plan of Operations- Washington's Birthday-Return of the Sun 295-316 CHAPTER XIV. Winds during March-Strain on the Vessel-Increasing Sunlight-Photograph of the Polaris- Land and Water Animals-Ferocity of the Dogs-Sledge-journey to the South 319^33 CHAPTER XV. Selection of the 13oats' Crews -Return of the SI,dge-party-Accouut of their Journey-Descrip- ^onof an Igloo-Petermann Fiord-Cape Morton-Cape Bryan-Kennedy Channel-A Bear K.lR.d--S.gns of Scurvy-Musk-ox Hunting- The Sun at Midnight-Highest Point Reached on Land— Boats Taken to Capo Lnpton * 337-363 Contents. 9 starts on Boat-jonrney-Loses his Boat- ^"*° 3(17-397 401-435* 439-464 CHAPTER XVJ. Attempts to Stop the Leak-Surveying-Mr. Chester CHAPTER XVII. cap. C,miu,tLl^^Z^TZ^:^, '''^"•'" Ch„„el-H».. ,.,..._ CHAPTER XVIII. CHAPTER XIX. CHAPTER XX. 499-519 CHAPTER XXI. Providential Relief-A Bear Kinea-O^en;!":^: - " ""'"'"'''"" ^''^'^- CHAPTER XXII .-...-wau..-r;r--:r-:-^^^^^^^^ CHAPTER XXIII. 579-ii9a - 4(57-496 583-554 i ^^ Contents. CHAPTER XXIV. Exniniuation of the loe-floo and the Badingtou Parties -Report of the Board of Inquiry sSl^^l CHAPTER XXV. Report of the Prize Commission of the GeograpLical Society of Paris, Awarding the Eonuette Medal to Captain Hall C25-«31 APPENDIX. I. Instructions of the National Academy of Sciences II. Correspondence between the British Admiralty and the United States Navy Department' in Relation to the Stores loft by the Polaris Expedition on the West Coast of Greenland 665-672 III. Journals of Mr. H.C.Chester and Captain George E. Tyson while on Boat-journeys .Tune- July, 1872 J. "" IV. Journals used in the Preparation of the Narrative of the Polaris Expedition'".... .!.".. 685-686 INDEX 689-696 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. A Sledge Party Stamp for cover. (Designed and drawn by Lieutenant Con-monder C. H. Darl«. V. S. N.J STEEL ENGRAVINGS. 1 Executed at the Bureau of Bugrnvlng. United Statea Treasury Department.1 Portrait of Hall, (from a photograph taken in 18&3) -. . . WOOD BNGBA VINOS. wooa Dy Mr. T. W. SmilUe, and engraved by Mr. H. H. Nloliola.J FIskemaes Page. Lichtenfela 48 Holsteinborg '" 50 Qodhavu 58 Working Through Ice ^^ Shooting Walrus 70 Passing Fitz Clarence Eock "^^ Landing Stores on the Ice ' "^^ ThePolarisin Thank-God Harbor "". ^^ Killing the First Mu8k-0x ^^ Funeral of Captain Hall *** Captain Hall's Grave 182 The Polaris Adrift ,- 185 Fastening to Providence Berg ' ^^ Ravine near Tbank-God Harbor * ^^ Cape Lupton 249 An Aurora 292 The Polaris on Providence Berg...... .'.'*." 298 The Polaris and Providence Berg ^* 386 ■"^Sfwrntl^SS^^m^ 12 Illustrations. Uoat-Canip, Nowinnn'ii Day 394 Captain Tyson's Hoat y^ Stoaniinf; into Kennedy Cbannel 40(j Before Separation, October 15, 1873 488 The Ilonse on tlio Floe 435 PolariH HonHO 492 I'^onllto Fiord 494 Uouts PiiKinR Sorfalilf 500 Doata near Halilnyt iHlund 502 Landing on Nortlmmberland Island 504 Boat Camp, Dairy niplo Island 506 Sighting the Eavonscraig 510 The Separation, October 15, 1872 524 Upornavik 580 Tessi-Ussak 5g8 An Arctic Moonlight Scene 594 Cairn at Cape Brevoorfc , 152 FarascleuiD 304 The Eoqaotte Medal 631 TAIL-PIEOES. Esquimaux Sledge 43 Head of an Esquimaux 66 The Polaris Among Ice g6 An Arctic Owl , j06 Seals on Ice 131^ The Polaris under Sail and Steam I70 An Eagle 214 Head of an Esquimaux Dog 223 AGull .■.■.".. 271 A Greenland Esquimaux House 3jg An Arctic Fox , 33.^ A Polar Bear 3g3 An Oomiuk 4^54 Keiudeer ^(jg A Luramo 5jg An Igloo 554 Eider Ducks 5yg An Iceberg 593 Walrus ,j2i 3 i Illustrations. PnOTOLITnOGRA PHS. Soalo-drawing of tbo Polaris Deck-plans of tfcn Polaris IFrom drawing, farnl.hed by N»t«1 Con.truotor a F. 13 fti*. DiJano. United SUtet Novy.] 28 28 Maps. Oeneral Map Track of Hall's Last Sledge-Journey.! Map of Hall's First and Second Arctic E'idVtio'nsZ" Discoveries of tl.Prrr''""'"'"""''"'^"'"'^"'"*'"""'^ .eeu, la perhap. nearer the truth.] '" " '*"°""' ""^^ ""«« '«" »'*•'« l.Utudeof the most northe™ la" d JLI Track of the Polaris While Beset Track of the United States Steamers tI^;;;; and J^iia;; ITW, n,.p wa. taken from th. report of the SecreU.^ o^i^^^^i^^:^, 46 150 194 356 414 C84 INTRODUCTION. INTRODUCTION. It appears from the letters and papers of Captain Hall, purchased by the Government from his widow and now in possession of the Navy Department, that the ex- pedition of the Polaris to the Arctic regions originated with him and was carried into execution according to his own plans. During two prolonged residences among the Esqui- maux—a period, to use his own language, of "about eight years "~he repeatedly speaks of his desire and purpose to lead s-ich an expedition. Indeed, as far back as the beginning of the year 1863, in a letter written to Mr. L. J. Cist, of Saint Louis, shortly after his return from his first expedition, he says : " My third voyage to the Arctic regions will be (D. V.) for discovery, to° the northern axis of the great globe." This resolution he steadily maintained until the opportunity presented itself for carrying it into execution. . 1 *^ Introduction. In order to show this more fully, and to furnish at the same time the means of making a just estimate of his character and purpose, the following extracts are given from his journal : ''April 14, 1865.-— We are nearly all ready for the proposed removal. North, north, farther and farther NOETH, I long to get. Though the locality of King William's Land is all I aspire to on this present journey, yet I never will be satisfied in voyaging and traveling in the Arctic regions until I shall reach that spot of this ^ great and glorious orb of God's creation where there is no North, no East, no West. Of course, that mundane point is the one nearly under Polaris:' "March 4, 1866.~The end will soon be, I trust, when I shall have done what I came to this country to do, and then may God grant me the opportunity and the proper means to make my way to the north exir&me of His glorious earth." ''February 16, 1869.-^1 must (Deo volente) do up all my work for which I came into this country this spring and coming summer, for I long to return to Amer- ica, to prepare at once for my expedition to the North Pole. Night and day, day and night, weeks, months and years, find my heart and purposes fixed, without a shadow of wavering, on making that voyage. May Heaven spare my life to perform it." Introduction, The following extract is from a letter written in 1869 to Mr. A. B. Johnson, president of the Teachers' Institute of Hamilton County, Ohio, on accepting an invitation to lecture before the Institute: "Although the primary object of ray voyages to the North has not been for geogi-aphy, yet I have been en- abled to make considerable advance in geographical dis- coveries. There is a great sad blot upon the present age, which ought to be wiped out, and this is the blank on our maps and artificial globes from about the parallel of 80° North up to the North Pole. I, for one, hang my head in shame, when I think how many thousands of years ago it was that God gave to man this beautiful world— the whole of it— to subdue, and yet that part of it which must be most interesting and glorious, at least so to me, remains as unknown to us as though it had never been created. Havin ~ now completed my Arctic collegiate ed- ucation, I feel to spend my life in extending our knowl- edge of the earth up to that spot which is directly under Polaris— the crowning jewel of the Arctic dome. I hope to start on my next voyage next spring. Shortly, I expect to apply to our Government for its aid, feeling that the day has come when the great problem of ages on ages must be solved under the stars and stripes." March 29, 1870, he writes to the Senate Committee on Foreign Relations: 1ft *^ Introduction. "For years I have had it in ray mind that when I should complete the mission relative to Sir John Frank- lin's expedition— that is, should recover some of Franklin's companions, or should become satisaedthat none existed— I would return to my country and prepare for making a third voyage to the Arctic regions, especially for making geographical discoveries, even up to the north extremity of the axis of our globe. **•*«« N'either glory nor money has caused me to devote my very life and soul to Arctic exploration." These quotations are given precisely in the form and language in which they were written. Hall had ex- pressed himself in like terms to that fast friend of this, as of previous Arctic explorations, Mr. Henry Grinnell of New York City, writing to him from Washington on the 8th of March. 1870, thus: "In three to five years, I doubt not, with the same aid and protection of high Heaven as on my two previous Arctic voyages, I would fully accomplish the determination of my burning soul, which determination, my dear Mr. Grinnell, you know to be to put my foot on the north extremity of the axis of the globe." ■ Introduction, Thus it appears that Captain Hall, in single-minded devotion to the cause of Arctic exploration, is worthy to be placed by the side of x>arry, Franklin, and Kane. This devotion was not merely a sentiment; on the con- trary, during his long residence among the Esquimaux, his constant aim was to qualify himself for this service by adopting, throughout, the Esquimaux mode of life ; by habituating himself to their manners and customs; and by acquiring a practical knowledge of the geography of the Arctic regions and of the native mode of traveling. On his return from this region in 1869, he immediately be- gan, by lecturing in various parts of the United States, to mature a public opinion favorable to his enterprise. After lecturing in New York, Brooklyn, Pittsburgh, Cin- cinnati, and several other cities as far west as Indianap- olis, he went to Washington and commenced those eftbrts which terminated successfully in procuring the appropria- tion granted by Congress for the Polaris Expedition. 21 ■ CHAPTER I. Captain Hall arrived in Washington January 30, 1870. A few days after his arrival he called on the President of the United States, who manifested so great an interest in the proposed Arctic researches as to draw from Hall a statement of his life and experiences among the Esquimaux. Hall was strongly impressed not only by the President's sympathy and kindness but also by the knowledge he displayed of the whole field of Arctic exploration. It may be stated here, once for all, that tho authority for everything relating to Hall, personally, is derived from his correspondence chiefly addressed to the late Mr. Henry Grinnell of New York, and to Mr. J. Carson Bre- voort of Brooklyn. On the 2d of March he accepted an invitation to lecture on his "Arctic Expeditions, Past and Prospect- ive," signed by the Vice-President, by members of the Cabinet, Senators, Representatives, and citizens of Wash- 1870. *l f ii 2G 1870. . pi HalVs Lecture in Washington. ington. This lecture, delivered March 5th in Lincoln Hall, was attended by the President and by many dis- tinguished citizens in public and private life, who mani- fested a deep interest in Captain Hall's work. In a private letter to his friend, Mr. Grinnell, he speaks of this fact with feeling, and dwells particularly on the marks of approbation which the mention of the appro- priation for the proposed expedition elicited. The histor- ical part of this lecture, illustrated by maps and charts, related chiefly to the expedition of Franklin, and the fate of his officers and men. Next to this, that which most engaged the attention of the audience was a full descrip- tion of Esquimaux habits and life, domestic and nomadic, in all particulars; exemplified, to some extent by the natives Ebierbing (Joe), and Tookoolitoo (Hannah), his wife, who were present with their child Punny (Sijlvia). On the 8th of March, 1870, a joint resolution rela- tive to a voyage to the Arctic regions was introduced in the House of Representatives by Hon. J. Stevenson, of Ohio, which, after having been read a second time, was referred to the Committee on Appropriations. This committee had been already prepared for the subject by memorials proceeding from distinguished sources in vari- ous parts of the country. On the 25th of March, 1870, Hon. John Sherman, of Ohio, obtained the unanimous consent of the Senate to Congressional Action. bring in a similar resolution ; which was read twice and referred to the Committee on Foreign Relations. On the 19th of April Hon. Charles Sumner, chairman of that committee, reported the resolui on with amendments; and on the 23d of May Mr. Sumner introduced the amended resolution as an amendment to the general appropriation bill. Upon its adoption the Senate was equally divided ; Vice-President Colfax secured it by his casting vote. On the 9th of July the House of Representatives agreed to the amendment, provided that the sum of |50,000 was inserted in the place of |100,000 ; in which amendment the Senate the same day concurred. The appropriation finally passed in the following terms, (sec. 9 of the Legislative, Executive, and Ju(^'V:al Appropriation bill:) ''Be it enacted, That the President of the United States be authorized to organize and send out one or more expeditions toward the North Pole, and to appoint such person or persons as he may deem most fitted to the com^ mand thereof; to detail any officer of the public service to take part in the same, and to use any public vessel that may be suitable for the purpose; the scientific operations of the expeditions to be prescribed in accordance with the advice of the National Academy of Sciences; and that the sum of fifty thousand dollars, or such part thereof as may be necessary, be hereby appropriated, out of any i« :iil 28 HcUVa Commission. m isrc. moneys in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated, to be expended under the direction of ihe President." The act was approved by the President, July 12, at which time the actual history of this expedition begins! Eight days after its approval the President of the United States issued to Captain Hall the following com- mission appointing him commander of the expedition toward the North Pole : "Executive Mansion, ''Washington, D. C, July 20, 1870. "Dear Sir: You are hereby appointed to command the expedition toward the North Pole, to be organized and sent out pursuant to an act of Congress approved July 12, 1870, and will report to the Secretary of the Navy and the Secretary of the Interior for detailed in- structions. "U. S. Grant. "Capt. C. F. Hall." ft The President also sanctioned the selection by the Secretary of the Navy of a vessel suitable for the pur- pose. The United States Steamer Periwinkle, fourth- rate, a staunch tug of 387 tons burden, was selected. In order to qualify her for the service, she was hauled up on the ways at the Washington navy-yard; her wales, planking, clamps, and ceiling were removed, and k* B I* -n M\ "tf n I « ■ - - .4. uKwt si*i»si3am •■**•£ S I^n ■g - >?*■ :ct route to the Secretary of the Navy, Washington, United States of America. "Upon the return of the expedition to the United States, you will transmit your own and all other records to the Department. You will direct Dr. Bessels to trans- mit all the scientific records and collections to the Smith- sonian Institution, Washington. "The history of the expedition will be prepared by yourself, fro;n all the journals and records of the expedi- 86 1871. 36 III Voyage to New York. 1871. "tion, under tho supervision of the Department. All the records of the seientifie results of the expedition will he prepared, supervised, and edited hy Dr. Bessels. under the direction and authority of the president of the Na- tional Academy of Sciences. " Wishing for you and your bravo comrades health Iiappniess, and success in your daring enterprise, and com- mendmg you and them to the protecting care of the God who rules the universe, "I am, very respectfully, yours, "Geo. M. Robeson, "OnAS.F. Hah, "^"'''■'"-"J "f "'^ Navy. "Commanding Expedition toward the North Poh." During the brief voyage of the Polaris to Kew York her officers and crew entered upon their duties with en- ergy and good conduct. The working of her engine was satisfactory. At New York Mr. George E. Tyson joined the Polaris as assistant navigator and master of sledges. The outfit of the expedition was also completed. The Polans was still further strengthened; some changes were made m her muster-roll, and everything in the way of supplies particularly adapted to Arctic exploration was placed on board the vessel in abundance. On the 29th of June, she left New York for New London, and finally sailed from the United States July 3d '*^«ttf. The Complement. with tho following complement of officers (including the scientific staff) and men : Commander, Charles F. Hall ; Sailing-master, Sidney 0. Budington ; Assistant navigator, George E. Tyson; Mate, H. 0. Chester; Second mate, William Morton; Chief engineer, Emil Schumann; Assistant engineer, A. A. Odell ; Carpenter, N. J. Coffin (joined the ship at Disco). Scientific staff: Chief of corps, Emil Bessels, surgeon ; Astronomer, 11. W. D. Bryan (joined the ship at Disco) ; Meteorologist, Frederick Meyer. Besides the crow of fourteen men there were two in- terpreters, tho Esquimaux, "Joe," and his wife "Hanhah." Having now fairly launched Captain Hall on his voyage of Arctic exploration, we may pause a moment to give a more detailed statement of his views and objects. While in New York closing his preparations, Hall had enjoyed the honor of a public reception by the Ameri- can Geographical Society. He had pointed out on a large Arctic map tho route which he proposed to follow; referred 87 1871. r R 38 American Geographical Society. 18^1. to his long residences among the Esquimaux, which had for their object the determination of the fate of Sir John Franklin's party; and dwelt with earnestness and grati- tude on the aid he had received from the Government, and upon the high expectations he had formed of the suc- cess of his "mission." But the view which it is proposed to give of Hall's fundamental conceptions, is taken in a great measure from his own private papers, elucidated in some instances by the letters of his most intimate friends. In the presence of the very distinguished audience at the meeting of the Geographical Society, to which he was introduced by their president, Judge 0. P. Daly, Hall said of himself that he would rather make a sledge-journey to the North Pole than speak ; adding that he had been unable to make preparation to appear before such an audience in consequence of the overwhelming occupations which had engrossed his time and thoughts. It is indispensable, however, to a just appreciation of his energy, intellect, and devotion, that his far-reaching views on the subject of Arot-c explorations should be given from his testimony before Congress, and from his own writings and the language of friends to whom these views were freely communicated. In letters of the 18th and 19th of February, addressed to Mr. Grinnell and Mr. Brevoort, he entered upon a particular examination of the best method of approaching the North Pole, and of the a^^ 'me^w" Letter to Judge Daly. time and means required, in his judgment, to carry it into execution. The objects of his proposed voyage are then presented as threefold, viz: 1st, geographical discovery; 2d, science; 3d, commerce. Taking up the last subject first, as the most practical, it will be found that Hall points out the probability of discov- ering new whaling-grounds along the proposed route; and this he considers as quite sufficient of itself to justify the Government in setting on foot an expedition. In a letter to Judge Daly, dated Washington, April 9, 1871, he thus writes ; * * * * "From Esquimaux at Igloolik I also obtained impor- tant information of a new bay that will not only be of interest to geographers, but must, I think, eventually be of great value to our commerce. The entrance to this bay has only been seen, and is indicated upon the Arctic charts as Admiralty Inlet. Nothing has been known, however, by civilized men, of this bay or of its character. The entrance is from Barrow Strait, lat. 73° 43' N., loner. 83° W., and the bay extends very nearly in a southerly direction to about 71° N. lat. The west side has a coast- line on a gradual curve from Barrow Strait to near its limit, the concave on the east, while the west (east?) side has many bays or fiords, with some good harbors in them. The bay is free from ice every summer, and none of the ice from Barrow Strait ever finds its way into it. 39 1871. ia!SS«»,*!«asRi«'"*aMi 40 1871. WJiale-fisheries. "This bay abounds in whales {Bala^ mysticetm, or smooth-back, the most important to civilized man) in narwhals (the sea-unicorn), and in seals. So abund'ant are the whales that the natives sometimes kill, in their rude way, as many as five large ones in a few days. " The information which I derived from the Esqui- maux has convinced me that this new bay will prove as valuable to whalers as Cumberland Sound. From 1840 to the present time, the products of whalebone and oil from Cumberland Sound, by English and American whalers, have amounted to $15,000,000; and as the area of the whale-fishery is gradually diminishing, the fact of the existence of this bay I regard as of great value, as opemng up a new ground for the prosecution of this im- portant industry." It was known to him, who had passed many years upon and near the old whaling-grounds, that some of them were very near experiencing the fate of those famous fishing-grounds of the tropical seas of the Pacific which have been deserted. He believed that other and new haunts of oil-bearing animals remained to be discov- ered, and this belief was rationally based on observation and experience since the days of that sturdy old pioneer Davis. The importance of this expectation is now brought very prominently into notice by the extraordinary devel- HaWs Plan. opmcnt of the English ja«, trade with Calcutta, the suc- cessful manufacture of which article depends entirely on the cargoes of oil brought from the Arctic regions and landed chiefly at Dundee, by the side of the jute manu- factories, as appears in the "Statement exhibiting the moral and material progress and condition of India durinr. the year 1872-73." " As for his first object—geographical discovery carried BO far that we should be no longer ignorant of the geo-^- raphy, typography, and resources of any part of our northern hemisphere-he has the entire sympathy of the civilized world. As respects science. Hall, though not himself a man of scientific education and attainments, possessed judo-, ment and sagacity altogether too large and comprehensive not to be fully alive to the importance of its promotion ; and not to know that every accession, whether of law or fact, to its domain, tended to the benefit of mankind TTpon this point all will heartily join in the opinion ex- pressed by one of Hall's most accomplished friends and admirers, Mr. J. C. Brevoort, president of the Lon^ Island Historical Society, that Hall was all the more fi" for his undertaking because he waa not wedded to any particular branch of science, but that, like Livingstone he devoted all his energies to geographical discovery. His views of Arctic investigation were much more 41 ISM, 42 1871 A Change of Plan. . comprehensive than might be inferred from the means and material employed in this his last expedition. His own plan embraced two vessels, one a steamer, the other a sailing-vessel, together with a large supply of dogs and sledges. If he could have carried out this plan, he meant to maintain an occasional communication between himself and the civilized world, wherever he might be. And there is no doubt that, for the accomplishment of this, he would have turned to a good account his familiarity with Esquimaux life, language, and customs. Thus he would have been able not only to report progress, but to receive additional aid from home. Such was his expectation. If we carry our minds back to the history of Arctic ex- ploration, we perceive at once how many evils are avoided and how many advantages are reaped by this joint co- operation. Both the present English and the proposed German expedition are based upon this plan. This par- ticular subject may be resumed in a future chapter. One feature of his original plan Hall found occasion to change. It appears in the correspondence already named that it was, at first, his settled purpose to go by the way of Jones Sound. This purpose he announced in letters to Mr. Brevoort of January 21, 1870, and in one to Mr. Grinnell, of an approximate date. He was led to the choice of this route by the opinions of his friends, the Es- If m^^-9m'.;^^l^- ^mmt-*'' His Ultimate Purpose. quimaux, and by Kane's experience in Smith's Sound. But he found occasion to change this opinion before he left the United States. And we shall see further on, that, on his arrival at Holsteinborg Harbor, ho received infor- mation from Baron Von Otter which confirmed him in the propriety of the change. This shows that Hall was not obstinate in his own opinions, however maturely formed. On this better knowledge he gave up the route by Jones Sound, as he had previously given up without hesitation his matured plan of proceeding, when he found that Congress would give him but one vessel and only 150,000. We learn, further, from his letters that it had been his intention, if he failed in getting the congressional appropriation, to ask that, with a small party properly equipped and provisioned, he should be landed by a naval vessel in Hartstene Bay, and left to take care of himself. He would have made that place his headquarters, and have concentrated his efibrts upon explorations toward the North Pole, trusting, with the religious earnestness and faith of a sincere enthusiast, that he would finally reach the object of his devotion. 43 1871. I! I (I! I ll II m eo ■ '■; <55'. i CHAPTER II. It has already been mentioned that the Polaris sailed 1871. from New London, July 3, 1871. While in that port '""^* she had been visited by a great many persons, and on the day previous to sailing (Sunday) divine service was held on the hurricane-deck by Dr. Foster, of New London, assisted by Elder AUyn, of Groton. Quite a number of ladies and gentlemen were on board from both cities. Captain Hall made a few remarks at the close of the services, introducing the officers of the ship, and setting forth the objects of the expedition. This meeting was one of special and tender interest, because several of the leading officers of the Polaris were from the vicinity. The flag presented by Mr. Grinnell to Hall at his recep- tion by the American Geographical Society of New York was now hoisted at the fore. This flag had been carried by the squadron of Admiral Wilkes in his expedition to the Antarctic Ocean, and subsequently by De Haven, Kane, and Hayes to the Arctic Ocean. , i 48 1H7I tmtr. St, John^s, On r voyage to Newfoundland, the Polaris en- countered some heavy weather, frequent fog«, and a pro- tracted storm, with thunder and hghtning. On the 10th after the fog hefted, eho found herself embayed, and wai obhged to stand southward and westward to recover her sea-room. On the evening of the same day. Cape Race waa made, andat 12 m., July 12th, the Polaris anchored in the harbor of St. John's, at the entrance of which two large icebergs had grounded. On tlie 13th. Captain Hall and his entire staff were received by the governor of the island, his secretary, and prominent members of the le-ris- lature. They lunched at the governor's mansion, and eiyoyed every courtesy and attention from the authorities of the province. The governor and hia suite were, in turn, received and entertained by Captain Hall, who conducted them over the vessel. During her stay in the harbor the ship was coaled and took on board caplins and six Newfound- land dogs, three of which were puppies. The Polaris left St. John's at 3.30 p. rn. of the 19th for Greenland, United States Consul Molloy accompany- ing the vessel out of the harbor and returning with the pilot. On the same evening a remarkable instance of mirage is recorded; also an aurora borealis the rays of which formed an arch. On the 26th, an aurora appeared in the mornino-. to* ''_^^^_ u> 48 July. >V/. John's. On her tov •yagt'- U> Newfouiidiimd, tl„, ).>„laris en- oo,mtere,| .n.n. heavy weatl.e,-, frcqnent fbff.s an,l a j,.,,- tracted storm, with thunder and lightnirij.. 0,, the loti, after the f„g lifted, she lonnd herself embayed, and was obliged to stand southward and westward to recover her «ea-ro»nK ()„ the eve,,!,,,; of the same dav, Cape Race ^^•as .i«.lo, ..nd at 1 2 >„., July , 2th, the Polaris anchored in the l,arhor of .St. John's, at the entrance of which two lar^re iecherw had jfronndcd. On the 13th, Captain Hall and Ins entire .u,W wen> received hy ,i,„ j^overnor of the «fe.]. M« seereh, , ^ ' > 'n..mhm of the legis- i ^t^m the mthmhkn .yj^U'r^ : ■ ' '■ ■ - ./'% Ill tfjri! re^wMved ' ■ ^ ' th^^ vo.sei. Ihinu^ her ^^y :n fiu- harbor l;hu .hip ^m coaled and took ou board cnpiins anri siv N*>« fV^HKi-- land chj^>. rhree of which 'vr^v? nuppios. • "0 p. m. of \\\o. 19th ^ i ^oiiv .Ht'l Molloy accompaov- '''^^^*^^«^ ^ ' -t.irmn- with i-h> ''^'' same evuw.:^. : i-rmttrk^.... .u..^-- ., Uu i:,o -•iUi, an aurora appoas iiomjn«r, -; ^ • ^1 •vmim^mm^. Fiskernaes. forming- at times a semicircle, and afterward rising toward the zenith. On the 27th, the coast of Greenland was seen, and shortly afterward its high peaks, covered with snow. Toward evening the new explorers had their first sight of the natives in their kyaks. These boats, so frail and so dangerous in appearance, are perfectly safe in the hands of the natives, and are managed with extraordinary dexterity by them. On the 27th of July, Captain Hall dropped anchor in^the harbor of Fiskernaes, where he hoped to find Hans Hendrick,* the Esquimaux, who had accompanied Dr. Kane in 1853-55, and to persuade him to accompany the expedition as hunter and dog-driver. Before reaching the settlement the governor, Mr. Schoenheidter, came on board the Polaris. Captain Hall returned his visit. Dr. Bessels also went on shore to gather botanical and geo- logical specimens. Such of the crew as could be spired obtained permission to go ashore, where they enjoyed themselves in dancing with the young girls of the settle- ment. The nex^, day the ship was visited by the greater part of the population, especially by the women. They attracted much attention by the peculiarity of their dress, wearing boots of well-tanned seal-skin reaching above the knee, seal-skin trousers tastefully ornamented with needle- ^^ork^n^Jackets^^ cloth, and neatly • Called Haus Christian by Kaue, and by iuUu^^i^TK^JiZ 4 49 1871. Jaljr. 60 Lichtenfels. m if- h j„*iy.^'* *™^^<1 a^'ound the neck, wrists, and lower edges with fur and pretty bead ornaments. Some of these women were thought to be handsome; the majority, however, when first seen by the white man, have a decidedly repulsive appearance. In the afternoon, Dr. Bessels and Engineer Schu- mann, accompanied by Nindemann and Mauch, visited the settlement Lichtenfels under the Moravian missionaries Starik and Kroft. This journey was made in an open whale-boat during a violent rain-storm. The party was greeted with great cerdiality by the missionaries and their ladies. They learned from Mr. Starik the particulars of the loss of the German exploring vessel, th:^ Hansa. He was stationed at Eriedrichsthal when the shipwrecked crew landed in their boats. The Esquimaux under the care of these missionaries are distributed over five difierent settlements, and number in all 261 souls, of whom more than half live in Lich- tenfels. After supper the party took leave of these excellent people with the kindest remembrances. On the same evening preparations were made for sailing. The Polaris left Fiskernaes next morning at 4 o'clock, encoun- tering rough weather outside. At 10 a. m. of the 31st of July, she anchored in Holsteinborg, a Danish settlement containing about six- teen huts and fifty people. ri 'I: 50 •■ml}'. Lichtnn/hfs. u,;uine(l — ttiiu Iho neck, wrists, and lower edeow with fur aiid i-retty bead orruiraonts. Homo of th^»fc wom. : wen t!<ment Liehtenfcls under the Moravian im'ssioi.aries Sturikand Kroft. This jouriK;, ,.,,„ ,r,ade m ;;ii open wh?t.- h-v.* .\^rm9 '>. violent rain-storm.' The narty wan greeted v^ ' '" W the mis^^iouaricd and Uieir ^^""'^ ^ ' - tarticfihu The iibt^u!!;! MUX nwm ^hc* care ot ilie^o missionaries arc distributed over ihc aiilV-rctii ^-ttloments, and nun.h.:.- in all 2<^1 ^onls, .r' m-]; n., .,,. f,,,, half hv.^ .-i Uoh- ^ ■ ''' '^- -'^'^^''" -■"'** t'"" p-i'-ty Um.Iv leave of these excuilent pcu]»le with Mh ki«d<»«t rememhraueoh. On the ■eparaticn'-' were made for Paiiinir. Tho 1. of the 31si < • i^Mnish settle" tr^ ,,-■.. At \C ;H}d tifty people. ■t'^:- i i -:|p P. ! *'«* rl^f Swedish Scientific Expedition. Hall was agreeably surprised to find here the Swed- ish Scientific Expedition, composed of a brig and a small steamer, under the command of Baron Von Otter, which had been to Disco and Upernavik, and was now on its way home. The Baron had been successful in reach- ing latitude 75^ in having obtained several very large masses of meteoric iron, and in having made a number of deep-sea soundings and observations for temperature; all of which could not fail to contribute largely to a better knowledge of the hydrography of those waters. Hall was told at Holsteinborg that Hans, the dog- driver of Kane's and of Hayes' expeditions, was at Uper- navik, and that he would await in that place his arrivai- a piece of information confirmed by the Swedish expedi- tion. The expedition brought further good news from Upernavik, informing Hall that the season for Arctic nav- igation was a remarkably favorable one; that only occa- sional bergs had been seen between Holsteinborg and Disco; and that for several weeks none had been seen between Disco and Upernavik. On the day of the arrival of the Polaris, Nindemann one of her seamen, came very near losing his life in an attempt to manage one of the native kyaks. He lost his equilibrium, and would have been drowned but for the timely assistance of a boat from the Swedish frigate The Polaris had no boat alongside in the water 51 1871. July. I : t ! I'll 52 isri. Juljr. Ilolsteinborg. After porformin o.i his first esp«..iirion ,„ .search of Sir ' '''"• ''»' ^'''^^ ^P'^nt sc ,.,H day« i., jlo!- ■ , '' ' " ^ 'J! - -i :i Visil !„• 'luVutOH th(3 ' ' ■' li\' Kosonrclic " 1 !!'• Ai\m to ..'.r i *% iiiHiiw- a suJiit-H'.ia uiiuii. •• whulo ooiiipany with warm "jrrut, ho lonrneu luui no toiuiri! Mau sumi stru^ accoi not r ship nish Hoist the h ancho uponj miles ; which of fori leavinc and till windin beiiiir I headwa was rec CI] North ( principa most coj U i Godhavn. Mauch and Hayes, attempted the ascent of a peak the »mm,t of which was covered with snow. After a severe struggle they were obliged to abandon the enterprise on account of the rugged character of the cliffs. They did not reach the ship until midnight. In expectation of the arrival of the United States ship Congress which was to renew his supplies and fur- ^sh h,m with the latest instructions, Hall remained in Holstemborg until 2 p. m. of August the .<)d. On leavin. the harbor, several American schooners were seen at anchor about eighteen miles from land, engaged in fishing upon a well-known bank on which halibut and cod abound Steammg up the coast and keeping about twelve ».les from the land, the Polaris passed numerous icebergs wh.ch for size, beauty, and. in some eases, grotesqueness of form, were quite remarkable. Twenty-four hours after leavmg Holsteinborg a native pilot was taken on board, and the vessel was conducted safely through the narrow -ndmg channel into the harbor of Godhavn. The ancho; boH^ let go while the vessel was still under considerable headway, the cable parted. After mooring, the lost anchor was recovered. Chief-Inspector Krarup Smith, the superior officer in North Oreenland, proved to be on his annual tour to the pnnc.l.a. settlements of the district, but Hall was received 'uost cordially by the inspector's lieutenant, Governor Los- 53 1871. 54 1871. Angrust. I Divine Service. sen, who spoke Danish only. A competent interpreter and an ardent advocate and friend was found in Mrs. Smith, the wife of the chief inspector. On Saturday, the 5th, the "crow's nest" was secured in its place. On the 6th, Captain Hall went to church, accompa- nied by several of his people. He was struck with the neatness of the chapel, and equally so with the decorum of the congregation. The seats were common benches. About thirty persons were present, of whom the majority were women, while boys comprised the greater part of the male portion of the congregation. In the absence of the regular clergyman the catechist conducts the worship. His regular duties are those of town clerk or recorder, and of village schoolmaster. The services were very simple. Three hymns were sung, or rather chanted, in a low tone of voice, the slowness of utterance increasing the monot- ony. A passage of Scripture was read, prayers were offered, and a sermon preached. The same day Mr. Chester was dispatched for Chief- Inspector Smith, whom he found at Bittenbeck. This in- volved a boat-journey of one hundred anr| -^over^y-five miles. Captain Hall praises Mr. Choyler for tLe alacrity and intelligence with which he execntod this duty. Mr. Smitn at once responded to the reque-i ,: C>^Dtain Hall. Relinquishing pressing duties, be arrived at G ^dhavn at 6 f t \\ ■At ■'>ki) "Oariish oirly. \ ■ -mpetent n, . •«'nt advocato and fVif -y? was Ibunu ■ ' :" of the .hii-i' inspector. ': hiiiirdtty. the 5tb, the "crow's nesi .. On liie Clh. Cnptnm llnH Tvruf N. c'mrch, acconipa- nvM hv .cror;.) ..f i.; ;, .,. .^,, ,,.,, .^ruck with tho ■' ' '-P^ ' -'i Ciiually t5o with the decorum 'iM^rougrc-gaiioji. Th.^ ^oats were common bciiciies. ("•<' presieot. of whom thomaioritv »" n.' t '' '■ ]■ ■■•'.! ill;-' * 'Mil rjR- i.. !ionot- !Mef- f VI r nhcst. avi) at «; i ■ -« \ I rw' i ♦ The Congress. a. m. of tho 11th. Before his return, the United States ship Congress, under the command of Oapt. H. K. Daven- port, U. S. N., anchored in the harbor, and brought with her not only the needful stores and supplies, but relief from the load of anxiety which was weighing on Hall's mind. August 7th. the ship was thoroughly cleaned, and m the course of the next two days was painted. Hall en- tertained at dinner Mrs. Inspector Krarup Smith and Gov- ernor Lossen and his wife. At U a. m. of the 11th, Captain Davenport, accom- panied by Captain Hall, went in full uniform to pay an official visit to Mr. Smith. As he landed he was received by a salute from a battery of six 6-pounders, and was es- corted by Governor Lossen to the house of the Inspector, where he was received "with every mark of official and pergonal respect and consideration." The salute was re- turned by the Congress with an equal number of guns, the Danish flag being hoisted at the foremast-head. Captain Davenport presented to Mr. Smith letters from the Secretary of the Navy, and received the assur- ance that the Danish authorities would take great plea- sure in extending to Hall all the assistance in their power; Inspector Smith at once making known his own cor- dial desire to extend to the North Polar Expedition a.U the aid and co-operation asked for in the letters of the Secre- 55 1871. ff 3 56 Official Courtesies. I A.l.l'^;- y- Ho consented to receive in the government store- house the stores and provisions intended for the use of the Expedition, promising that they should be carefully preserved, at the same time declining any remunera- tion for this and all other kindnesses. At this place Hall also endeavored to obtain the services of Hans and those of a Dane by the name of Jensen, at that time o.„v. crnor of Tessi-Ussok, formerly of Dr. Hayes- expedition both of whom belonged to the government service in which they were very useful. Inspector Smith showed I1.S usual generosity in the offer of his influence to secure them for Hall. On the 13th, Mr. Smith visited the Polaris and the Congress, and was received with a salute of fifteen ^uns from the latter vessel. Divine service was conducted on board the Congress by the Rev. Dr. Newman, at which were present the crews of both vessels and most of the mhabitants of Godhavn. During the next few days, coal and supplies of vari- ous kinds were transferred from the Cong,-ess to the Polaris untU she wo^ filled above and below decks to her Utmost capacity. The remainder were stored in the pubhc building furnished by the Danish inspector. At 2 p. m., of the 17th, the anchor wa^ weio-hed and the Polaris stood out of the harbor. In passing" the Congress manned her yard,, and rigging and gave the xi Parting Scenes. 57 )- )f y 3 1 Li i ' I Polaris hearty cheers, which were returned with equal isri. spirit and good will. Before weighing anchor, the crew *""""• "!■ :Ve Polaris had been mustered on deck to receive from Captain Davenport some judicious instruction and counsel concerning their future conduct. He pointed out to thorn that implicit obedience and perfect harmony were the necessary conditions of success. This advice, considering the heterogeneous character of the ship's company, was well-timed. Eev. Dr. Newman of Washington, a pas- senger in the Congress, also addressed them and com- mended them and their expedition to the favor of Heaven The separation of the Polaris from the Congress was attended by the expression of some private griefs caused by the parting of relatives. Rev. B. D. Bryan of Car- bondale. Pennsylvania, who had also come out as pas- senger in the Congress, was parting with his eldest son R. W. D. Bryan, the astronomer of the expedition, and Captain James Budington, of Groton. Connecticut ice- pilot of the Congress, and previously well known as the discoverer of the British ship Eesolute in 1855, was tak- ing leave of his nephew. Captain Budington of the Jrolaris. Hail's dispatch of this day, the day of his sailing from Godhavn, contained an earnest expression of his gratitude for the perfect manner in which the expedition had been, in all respects, equipped, and in a subsequent 68 1871 AuKnM. Upernavik. . letter of the 22d instant ho makes use of this expression: "Never was an Arctic expedition more completely fitted out." Following the shore-lino at an average distance of ten miles, he passed an innumerable succession of iccj- bergs. Several- hump-back whales appeared close to the vessel. Shortly after meridian of the next day, Swarte Hook was on the starboard beam, distant about eight miles. At 10 p. m., while passing the island of Kasor- soak, the sea was seen breaking on two dangerous reefs about four miles from the vessel. Steaming slowly among the many small islands, a careful lookout was kept for reefs and sunken rocks. At 1 a,, m. of the 19th, having neared the settlement of Upernavik, a native pilot was taken on board, and in half an hour the vessel was safely anchored in the harbor. Hall had accomplished the voyage between Godhavn and Upernavik, a distance of 225 miles, in 33J hours. Owing to the distance from the village and the irnseasonableness of the hour of the ship's arrival, it was some time before the inhabitants could be awakened. It was not, however, very dark; at midnight the sun was only four degrees below the horizon; and, as now it was but an hour and a half to sunrise, the eastern sky was bright with the com- ing day. He was received in the most cordial manner by Gov- Upernavik. ernor Rudolph, who readily complied with all his requests. One kyak was dispatched with letters to Hans Hendrick, at Proven, about fifty miles distant to the southward where he actually proved to be; and another to Jansen, of Tessi- Ussak, the same distance to the northward, requesting them botli to prepare to leave home at the shortest notice. Mr. Chester also left in a boat for Proven, to bring Hans and his family. Ho reached that place before mid- night, and leaving at 8 o'clock on the morning of the 20th, returned with them to Upernavik on the evening of the same day. His boat presented a singular appearance, being loaded from stem to stern with bags, boxes, and skins, on the top of which were children, dressed in ragged and filthy skin clothing. W hen the family came on board the Polaris with their luggage, consisting of tents, cooking-utensils, tools, implements of the chase, and three or four puppies whose eyes could scarcely bear the light, an opportunity was given of witnessing the do- mestic habits of this people. In the exceedingly crowded condition of the vessel, it was difficult to find a place to stow this family, with their goods and chattels. With the full consent and co-operation of the Danish authorities in Greenland, Hall secured the services of Hans as dog-driver and servant, with the agreement that his wife and three children were to keep him company 59 I8TI. Augusi. ...*^a. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) <'. 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ m iU 14.0 12.5 2.2 1.8 LLl llllli^ ? Photographic Sciences Corporation i\ <^ \ \ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 w:.^ ^^^ '\^ %* vV It I 60 1871. UpernaviL By this contract Hans received a salary of about «300 per annum^ or, n,ore exactly, fifty Danish dollars per »o„th. who had been associated with Hans under Kane, in makmg h,s memorable sledge journey to Cape Constitu- t.on, came forward and spoke to him; but the latter did not recognize him. On Morton's pointing, however to --e sears on Hans' right hand, the re,nai;s of ini- , -sta,ned by a powder explosion on the shore of Smith ZT Tl"' "■"' '"'''''"''• '^' circnmstance, and recogmzed Morton as the only spectator of that catastro- phe, apologizing in his rnde way, for not knowing him by pomting to the change in his hair and beard, due to the mpse of nearly twenty years since they were together. In the harbor of Ltpernavik the Polaris met the Damsh bng Julianhope, which come, annually from Demaark to bring supplies to the Greenland settlements and to receive the skins, oil, and dried fish which have' been obtained by trade with the Esquimaux. There are two anchorages off Upernavik one of which is directly in front of the settlement; the other in Its rear about a quarter of a mile over the rocky ridge- the latter is really the harbor, the former aiTording no pro- tection from either the southerly or the westerly wind, Both the Polaris and the Julianhope were in this small land-locked harbor. The vessel was visited by Dr Ru' Upernavik. dolph and Governor Elberg, who, upon receiving the let- ter from Mr. Krarup Smith, delivered by Hall, expressed a readiness to render the expedition all possible lid. The Upernavik settlement consists of some twenty- two houses inhabited by sixty Esquimaux. They ap- peared even less cleanly than those in the more southern settlements. Just back of the settlement, on the slope of the ridg3, is the graveyard, distinguished by crosses, head-boards, and little inclosures marking the graves. The absence of vegetation, the want of method in the arrangement of the graves, and the dismal aspect of the fragments of unsightly rock covering the surface, added greatly to the sadness and dreariness of that northern cemetery. The hardness of the ground making it neces- sary to place the coffins on its surface and cover them with stones, the remains, in the course of time, often be- come exposed. Dr. E. N. Rudolph, quite an old man, had passed the greater part of his life in Greenland; but now intended to return to Denmark in the Julianhope, to spend .e re- mainder of his days. It may be mentioned here that he actually did return in the autumn; but, failing to find in civilized life the contentment he looked for, he came back to Greenland the next year. Early in the morning of the 2.1st, the Danish brig Julianhope, loaded with the blubber and skins accumu- 61 1871. Anvust. I Q2 1871 August. Jl If ill^ UpernaviL iated at Upernavik during the preceding year, was got ready to sail to the mother country. Governor Rudolph the evening before, gave a farewell banquet to his associ- ates, to which he invited the officers of both vessels. The Polaris made an unsuccessful attempi to tow the Julian hope to sea. During the day five tons of coal were taken on board, besides ninety seal-skins and one hundred dog-skms. Twelve dogs were added to the pack, increas- ing the certainty of the night's being made hideous by in- terminable bowlings. Mr. R. W. D. Bryan, having been now appointed chaplain hy Captain Hall, was required to conduct divine service on Sundays in place of Captain Hall, who had, himself, thus far officiated. The Seamen's Friend Society of New York City in addition to the gift of a ship's library which they usually make to all vessels bound on long cruises, had presented to Captain Hall copies of "The Sailor's Companion," for use on the Polaris. This work, prepared by Dr.'jas. Alexander of Princeton, contains a manual of worship, forms for special occasions, and sermons from the pens of eminent divines. The society also presented copies of sermons by Rev. Dr. W. S. Plumer, D. D., of South Caro- lina. The American Tract Society gave a number of hymn-books, called -Songs of Zion." The Bible Society had made a donation of a number of bibles. If Upernavik. 63 The members of the scientific corps were by no isri means idle during the short stay in Upernavik. Many ^""■*'- observations for position were made, and the magnetic elements of the place were determined. Collections were made illustrating the fauna and flora of the adjacent region, and its geology received careful study. The photographic apparatus was called into requisition, and m-any portraitures of Esquimaux life and characteristics were prepared. As a part of the preparations for sea, the sufferings of the pig bought in St. John's wero brought to an end and his body was huug in the rigging in company with the remains of a quarter of beef. Governor Elberg kindly consented to accompany the expedition ns far as Tessi-Ussak, in order to receive from Jensen his office and its trusts, should he conclude to join the expedition, as he had intimated he would in a letter brought back by the messenger sent with Hall's proposal When Captain Hall had made up his dispatches for the Secretary of the Navy and placed them in the hands of Governor Eudolph, the anchor was weighed at 10.30 p. m., and the Polaris left Upernavik. Steaming twelve miles to the northward and westward, a little before midnight the small island settlement of Kin.-itoke was reached. Captain Hall and Governor Elberg landed wilh a boat's crew to negotiate for dogs and furs; and ihi f! 64 1871 August. Tessi- Ussak. while they were absent, the vessel lay to, only using her engine oceasionally to .void the ice drifting „ho„t i„ small fieMs and detached pieces. The governor of the little settlement had a large number of very fine dogs, but no offer made by Captain Hall could induce him to part with any of them. With considerable difficulty, and mainly through the efforts of Governor Elber., eleven do^s were obtamed from some of the inhabitants; a few sell-skins and dog-skins were also purchased. At 1 a. m of the 22d, they returned to the vessel and started at once toward Tessi-Ussak. Good native pHots pointed out the many reefs, the sunken rocks, and the clear channels among the numerous islands that hue the coast in that neighborhood. Many icebergs were met: and a consider- able quantity of broken ice, confined by the configuration of the continental and insular eoast-lines, added greatly to the dangers of navigation. At 6 a. m. the anchor was dropped near the settle- ment of Tessi-Ussak. Here Hall wa« dooAed to another disappointment. He found that Jensen was unv .ing to leave home, pleading as his excuse the circumstances of his family, and especially those of his wife. He offered at the same time to assist in furnishing dogs, furs, &c.. to the expedition. Here, as in Upernavik, every effort was made to obtain natural specimens of all kinds; and the opportu- J) Tessi- Ussak. 65 nities of studying tho geological formation and evidences 1871. of present and former ice-action, were diligently improved. '^"'"''•' On the 23d, a heavy fog-bank outside added new dangers to a navigation very hazardous in the best weather and under the most favorable circumstances. In the little harbor it was a delightful day. The crew en- joyed their brief period of leisure in rambles over the rocky shore, making the most of the calm air, the genial warmth, and the gladsome sunshine. The tanks were filled with fresh water, and there were no deficiencies in the supplies of vessel and crew which were not made good while waiting for the lifting of the fog. Hall was now entirely ready to take leave of the civilized world, and to enter upon his field of Arctic ex- ploration. He was as well prepared in mind a^ in means to encounter the difficulties and dangers belonging to his future labors. He was entirely satisfied with his vessel, with her equipment and outfit, and with the promise im- mediately before him. " The prospects of the expedition," he writes, " are fine; the weather clear and exceptionally warm; every preparation has been made to bid farewell to civilization for several yeai-s, if need be, to accomplish my purpose." His coal-bunkers were full ; he had wood and resin in considerable quantities that could be used for steaming in any emergency. 5 66 isri. Auirast. Tessi-JJssak. He declares that there was nothing to regret bn, *o contrary, there was reason to reioico ivf ' P-taining to the expedition was Ta Ir ""^'"''"^ and successful condition than he ev "hadT /'""""" for. And this declaration . "^"^ "' P^^^"* aion of trustful T I '""=°»P''°'«5fiMhon)^ lifted, and the breeze • '• J'-nid was t;jVhted ■'•'>»i HH bi-ui-uig and apparmit di.^ nearCapcT-' An ■^'oiiiitere.]. * 1 !l- ' ;i< ' slowiy '-■iy ioose ft if k ^ i Cape York. and open, though composed of large pieces, and the ves- sel made her way with little difficulty. Coming again into open water, the sails were set and a direct course was run for the Cape. The weather con- tinued clear and pleasant, hut the sea was quite rough. As the light became more imperfect and objects more in- distinct, additional care was exercised to avoid the numer- ous icebergs. This proved to be an act of prudence, since the vessel narrowly escaped running with fair speed into one of the large bergs. At 5 a. m. of the 26th, close pack-ice was again en- countered, extending westward. Unable to force a pas- sage through, the vessel ran to the westward, along the southern edge of the pack, for three hours, when the ice was found more loose, and after a little buffeting and struggling with the irregular and ofttimes weighty masses that composed the pack, she once more resumed her course in open water. The vessel continued for the next hour and a half on a course about N. N. W. true, at the rate of five and one-half knots an hour ; at the expiration of that time she was north of Cape York, which bore E. S. E. \ E. true. At ten minutes past two, Cape Dudley Digges was directly east, distant about eighteen miles. Awash Island was passed at 5 p. m. At 7 p. m., while b twcen Wolsten- 71 1871. Angnst. :: ■m 72 1871. August. WolstenJwlme Sound. i/ I holme aud Saunders Islands, a large number of walruses were seen lying on the ice. Two floe-pieces two or three feet thick, and each covermg an area of about half a mile, were black with the large ungainly creatures. They were enjoying their sleep, having, as is their habit, some of their number on the watch to give the alarm in case of ap- proaching danger. The vessel moved with but little noise, and the lookouts of the party evidently did not consider her very dangerous, for their only sign of apprehension was a more frequent raising and rolling about of their heads. The rest of the company remained undisturbed, except that one here and there turned lazily over, or otherwise changed his position. All was excitement on board the Polaris. Many had never before seen the animals, and were curious to observe their appearance and actions. Even those who had often captured them hurried to the side to get a nearer view of the sleepers. They were so closely huddled together that it was difficult to distinguish them individually. Esquimaux Joe, animated by his love of sport, wiiu his rifle ready stood in the bow. It was proposed to man a boat and attempt the capture of at least one of the walruses, but Captain Hall decided that this would delay the Vessel too much. He ordered a boat's crew, however, to be in readiness in case Joe succeeded in killing one. The ship's course lay directly between the two floes, and as she approached within easy range of the ■l-^ ■# .*4 -^^ 1 '1 i 72 hor vvr' I f oiMcnlwlme Sound. ' •'. uj»Mco. TwoHoe-iuecosiu^ , ' uu-h covering au area oi ahui ' ' Miclnrge ungainly creatures, i ) - :•■«-]), l^avin. H. is their habit, somu oi },mr ■ .vutcii toi^He tbo iMTm in case of ap- ^rr. rue vessei movod ^vial but littlo noise, oats of tb. party evidently did not consider «^--ons, for tfitu only 8i '''■ oirtho vse.tefii,ho island, nhc ehartfife ■ iVHH was mad* / , . !, treinbhn- luulor i),, ,,,i,; and eontinnons revohi?ions of jior .'n-it-M ., ■ , ,. •' WiMi skilUu, inaiiagenieiit uiul a judgment matured by Smithes Strait 75 long experience, the sailing-master selected the weakest 1871. points for attack, and took advantage of the most favora- ble openings. The Polaris forced her way through, over- coming all obstacles, and at 9.50 a. m. of the 27th, was again in open water, A breeze from the north was now felt, which partly accounted for the compactness of the ice through which she had recently struggled. Meeting with no other ice except a few bergs, the ship made rapid progress. At 3 p. m., she was opposite Cape Alexander; at 5, Littleton Island was passed; at 6.30, she was abreast of Cairn Point; and at 8, the parallel of Kensselaer Harbor was crossed. This was a source of great gratification to Captain Hall. The whole crew sym- pathized with him in his good fortune, and were eager to press on. Smith's Sound, which had been supposed to be continually covered by a heavy, impassable ice-pack, was found open. The ship had already reached a latitude high'jr than that attained on this route by the vessels of any former expedition. Although very little ice was found lying in the direct course for Cape Frazer, long lines of bergs were seen to the eastward. Patch-ice was occasionally met. The short detour generally made to avoid it was rendered easy by the existence of open water to the westward. The vessel was forced through brash or posh ice or a f f'-i 76 1871 August. Smith's Sound. looae stream, without material change !„ her course. No unnecessary trials of her strength were made. Where there was room for working, all bergs, large pieces of ice and compact masses were carefully avoided, even when m order to do this it was necessary to make considerable deviation from the given course. About midnight of the 27th, a very heavy pack, hav- ing no opening to the ea.t and extending north as far as could be seen from the crow's-nest, made it necessaiy to run several miles westward. In about two hours the Polaris rounded the southwestern point of the pack, and following closely its western edge was able to resume her course. At 3.30 a. m. of the 28th, Cape Hawks was on the port beam, about fifteen miles distant. Here heavy iee was again met. The pack to the eastward consisted of floes very thick and extensive. Many pieces had been made by the aggregation of thin ice piled ,up by repeated pressure. These are called hummocks and hummoeky .ce, al hough the same terms are applied to similar masses formed upon the surface of a floe near its edge, as well as to those which rise in the center of recently-formed bay- ice. Occasionally a large berg added ite bulk and weight materially increasing the momentum of the pack. Many of these bergs were the remains of gigantic ice-fields, or Ae result of a strife between heavy floes in which one 1. re n e ^ y A Glorious Sunrise. was overrun by the other, forming, after two or three en- counters, a compact mass from 50 to 100 feet in thick- ness. Others again were fragments, or small specimens of icebergs, making their way gradually from the north to the banks of Newfoundland, where they disappear. To the west and north the land seemed ice-bound, and many hummocks and fragments of floes skirted the edge of the land-ice. As the vessel headed for Point Joy, the prospect of a passage between the land-ice and the pack appeared by no means favorable. But when within a few miles of the Point, the lookout in the crow's-nest discovered that the land-ice between Point Joy and Cape Frazer was detached, and that there was open water along the s-hore, dotted with floes and masses of every size and shape, brought down by the current eddying around Cape Frazer. During the first morning watch, the sun, hitherto hid- den by the mountains of Grinnell Land, suddenly shone out, causing a universal exclamation of wonder and de- hght. The line of reflected light was singularly brilliant where it crossed the patches of water, and it was ren- dered iridescent where it fell on the edges of the hum- mocks, on the fractured ice, or on the pack itself. The irregular surface of tne pack comprising the general level of the young ice, the undulations of the old floes, and the 77 1871. Aagrast. 78 Seeking a Harbor. \\ * „Vi:;- *="•? prominences of the bergs, together with the unend- mg diversity of form in the hummoclcs, kindled the imag- ination which discovered every variety of form and of object, animate and inanimate. The contrast between the snows of the hills and the dark hue of the waters in shadow, wa. also a st-iki„. featnre of the view. An attempt to convey any distinc"; Idea of the scene is perhaps useless ; it was impossible to witness a bla^e of splendor so great and varied without being affected by its material beauty and its moral im- pressions. The sky wa. cloudless and the atmosphere pleasant. It is not sm-prising that the little company of explorers derived encom'agement from these brio-ht and cheering influences. " When within five miles of Point Joy, the vessel rounded the northwestern prolongation of the pack and ran into comparatively open water. A small bay was seen which, from ite situation, was thought to be snitable for a harbor. The ship had now reached a higher lati tade than Captain Hall had expected to attain, and although anxious to push as far north as possible, he was still disposed to leave her in winter quarters at this point confident that he would be able, under favorable condi- tions of the ice, to reach the Pole in sledges. Before attempting, therefore, the navigation of Ken- nedy Channel, he resolved to explore this bay, in order Kennedy Channel that he might, if it should prove sufficiently large and isri. safe, occupy it as his winter quarters, provided the condi- *"*"•*• tion of the ice in the channel should prevent further prog- ress. A boat was accordingly lowered and jnamied, and Captain Hall, accompanied by the first mate, sounded the entrance to the bay. He ascertained its depth, landed and made a short but thorough examination of ite sur- roundings. The water proved to be not quite deep enough for the vessel, although in other respects the bay was suited to make a comfortable winter's home. After an hour's delay, at 7.50, the Polaris resumed hor course. Steaming another hour through very loose ice she passed Cape Frazer, while as far as could be seen from the mast-head, there wa^ no ice to the north Run ning along the land, at a distance of five miles, she made so much progress that at 12.30, Cape Norton Shaw was passed; at 2.,S0, Cape McOiintock; and at 3.45 Cape Lawrence. The positions of these prominent capes ap- peared to correspond with the chart, but it was impossible to make out the exact form of the coast-lines. The eastern coa.t of the channel was in plain sight. The width of its southern entrance is about thirty-five miles, and it decreases further north to twenty-five miles The day did not continue as pleasant as the early mornmg promised; clouds obscured the sun, and there was every indication of a long spell of cold a«d wet 79 iiii 80 The First Discovery. xlmt.' ^^^*^^^- ^* '^ P- "^-^ ^ ^^PP®^ cylinder, containing a rec- ord of the progress of the expedition, and securely sealed, was thrown overboard. At 11 p. m., a dense fog filled the straits ; no land coula be seen on either side of the channel. There being no ice to contend with, a brio-ht lookout was kept for shoals or breakers while the vessel pursued her course. A little after midnight, a small island was discovered, and as the Polaris passed near its western side it could be plainly seen, notwithstanding the fog. The south side ap- peared to be perpendicular and fifty or sixty feet high ; from this it sloped gradually to the north. Owing to the fog no estimate could be formed of the extent of this island. It does not exist on the chart of Dr. Hayes. A little bird flying over it was the first living creature that had been seen since entering the channel. At 2.15 a. m. of the 29th, a delay of 30 minutes was occasioned by the necessity of making some repairs to the engine. At 3 a. m., the fog lifted,' and the ship was found to be surrounded with numerous patches of ice, and several small icebergs. The land on both sides of the channel was in sight. It was very high, the west side being the higher. It was nearly free from snow. At 9 a. m., the fog settled about the vessel, and as the ice began to be heavier and more compact, it was deemed safer to fasten to a large floe, and wait until it should Observations for Position. clear up. This afforded a good opportunity to take a sounding; the apparatus was prepared, and 200 fathoms of line were run out without touching bottom. In at- tempting to haul in the line it parted, and nearly all of it was lost. Ten minutes before noon the fog cleared. This fur- nished the opportunity for taking the meridian altitude. Every sextant and quadrant was called into requisition. The horizon was not, perhaps, so good as a water horizon; yet the ice was, in some places, so low and free from hummocks, that it afforded a very fair means of ap- proximating to the sea level. Four of the instruments agreed in giving for the latitude 81° 20'; which was adopted. The vessel had been drifting with the ice since 9 a. m. The longitude was determined by morning sights taken at 8 a. m., using this latitude; it being assumed that the drift from 9 a. m. had brought the ship bade to the po- sition she occupied when the morning observations were taken. The result placed the Polaris in longitude 64° 34' west of Greenwich. When the fog lifted so that the ice ahead could be seen, the engine was set in motion, and the ship was worked northward between very large floes. Cape Lieber was distinguished on the western coast. The eastern coast appeared at first to bend to the east, and then to the west, and, uniting with the western coast, to form a 81 1871. August. yn n- 82 1871. August. Working to the North. largo bay, the extretno width of which might be thirty- five or forty miles, with Kennedy Channel for its southern outlet. At 1 p. m., however, a strait some twenty miles in width was distinguished, and the ship's head was turned toward it. The southerly current was very strong, and carried with it large quantities of ice. At 4.30 p. m., it again became foggy; after making an attempt for an hour and a half to advance, the ship was again fastened to a floe. Here another cylinder, prop- erly prepared, was thrown overboard. At a quarter past seven, the fog again lifted and the vessel once more resumed her course. The ice through which she was working her way was more formidable than any that she had hitherto encountered. Old floes of great area and thickness piled themselves one upon another. The noise produced by these contacts is peculiar. It varies in intensity and in the character of the sound. The floes were often three or four miles in extent; before risking the ship between two such masses, it was neces- sary to be sure either that she could pass through or could reach an indentation vhere she might be secured during the conflict. These emergencies required prompt decision. Matured experience and judgment are indispensable in this peculiar navigation. Captain Hall had good reason Under Difficulties. for self-congratulation upon his selection of officers; and the people, by their activity and promptness, performed their part faithfully. The strait through which the vessel continued slowly to work its way trended northeast; it is from twcity to twenty-five miles in width, and is bordered by high mountainous land, broken here and there by ravines, but in general presenting a perpendicular line of cliffs, with terraced debris at the base, sloping to the water's edge. There was no snow on the land, and, excepting the ice, there was no evidence that the region was fifteen and a half degrees above the Arctic circle. The full force of the current was now felt, and the ship labored hard to make much progress. To increase the difficulties of navigation, the fog again settled down, and shut out everything from view. Captain Hall was much disappointed at this. It cast a damper over the pleasant expectations which had been indulged by all on board in consequence of their early success. When the vessel started, everything seemed favor- able: the fog lifted; the weather became cooler; and a breeze sprung up from the north. The old and experi- enced Arctic navigators predicted clear weather, but in a short time they were compelled to acknowledge their mistake. Every effort, however, was made to overcome the difficulties, and the word was always " Onward." 83 1871. Auvusi. 84 IHTI. Auffusr. The Highest Point Beached. During tho remainder of the night, and for several liours of the early part of the 30th, the ship was kept moving toward tho north; immense ice-fields were passed, increasing, with the latitude, in size and number. At 6 a. m., the highest point was reached. The ico then became so compact that it was impossible to force the vessel through. So far as tho eye could penetrate the fog, there was no open space to the north; even if there had been, there was no passage leading to it. The Polaris had reached the northern limit of her voyage. Herman Siemens (whose record of the state of tho ice at that time is the only one preserved), says, "We saw firm ice from one coast to the other." Feeling a pride in what the ship had already done, Captain Hall was ambitious to accomplish still more, and was grieved when he found himself in front of an impass- able barrier. He enjoyed, however, the satisfactory reflection that everything had been done that was possi- ble. He did full justice to the exertions of his officers and men. Up to this time (as on subsequent occasions) the vessel proved well fitted for the service. It is impossible to determine the precise latitude which the Polaris had attained when at her highest northing. Eighteen hours before, her position had been aoi phere was very clear, and both shores of the channel could be seen distinctly. They appeared to extend to the north for a considerable distance, and then to diverge in opposite directions. The western coast stretched much farther to the north before turning toward the west. Far to the north and northeast, skirting the horizon and extending almost entirely across the open space between the two coasts, was a dark-look- ing cloud which gave rise to great differences of opinion among the officers of the expedition. Some of them thought that it was a water-cloud, indicating the existence of an open sea to the north. Several persons who were noted for their sharp sight were very certain that at dif- ferent points along the cloud they had made out the out- lines of land. Others again, were inclined to adopt both views, and attempted to point out a difibrence in the col- oring of the different parts of the cloud. Near the hori- zon, where the darkest shade was, they recognized a water-cloud, while in the lighter portions above, they thought they distinguished a fog-bank. Others of the ship's company contended that it was a fog-bank resting Water-doicds. against a mountainous coast, and that where it occasion- ally opened they could distinctly see bold headlands. The question remained for many days a fruitful theme for discussion. It may, perhaps, be well to mention here that these water-clouds form over open spaces of water. A very heavy cloud will sometimes exist over a small opening in the ice, and the conclusion, therefore, that large expanses of water must necessarily be found under water-clouds, is not warranted by the experience of navigators. Captain Koldewey remarks that the existence of an open Polar sea, supposed to have been seen by several Arctic explorers, is founded upon these very appearances; but hitherto they have proved to be deceptive. They prove the existence of a patqh, more or less extensive, of open water, and nothing more.* But whatever doubt there might be as to the exist- ence of open water to the north, there was none in regard to the space around the vessel. From the mast-head no water whatever could be seen except occasional pools The Polaris moved with the greatest difficulty. Not- withstanding the improvement of every possible chance and of every favorable opening, she had made only twelve miles at 4.45 p. m., when the patent logs were taken in. 95 1871. Auguiit. 4 •Die zvveite Deutsche Nordpolarfahrt iu den jahren 1869 uud 1870. Erster Baud, Erziihleuder Theil, zweite Abtbeilung, Seite 027. 96 Finally Beset. 1871. After struggling bravely for another hour, the ice closed September m and barred all further efforts. When finally she was secured by ice- anchors sunk in one of the largest floes, it would have been absolutely impossible for her to move twenty feet in any direction. In these four and three- quarter hours, with all her labor, twelve miles only, as has been mentioned, were traversed, and of these three only were to the north. This advance placed the ship at 4.45 p. m. in latitude 82° 16' N.; a result deduced from observations obtained independently of those which had given her position at 6 a. m. of August 30. The latter were determined by dead reckoning from noon of the preceding day; the former started from the latitude of the southern entrance of Repulse Harbor, determined by Mr. Meyer, by a me- ridian subpolar observation on June 30th of the next year. This reckoning, made up from this subsequent ob- servation, takes into account the courses and distances only without allowance for current or drift. Where so many disturbing causes existed, the effect of which cannot now be estimated, the determination must be received as approximate only. During the morning, of the 1st of September, a light wind blew from the N.N.E., accompanied by snow-squalls. The vessel continued closely beset by ice. A few de- tached pools of water were seen to the north and east. Drifting. 07 At noon, the snow ceased, but the sky remained completely 1 871. overcast, while to the north a dense water-cloud was seen **■***"**"' apparently nearer the vessel than that observed the day before. Forced by the wind, the ice continued to press closer and closer upon the ship, and the constant grinding against her sides was anything but pleasant. The danger increasing from hour to hour, Hall ordered every man to hold himself in readiness to leave the ship at an instant's notice. The canvas-bags in which the clothing had been kept from the commencement of tho voyage for such con- tingencies, were placed where they could be readily seized upon ; other little preparations, such as would occur to no one except under similar circumstances, were promptly made ; and all the members of the expedition waited for the issue over which they felt they had no control:— it was in the hands of Him whose constant protection they had hitherto enjoyed. The ice pressed very hard against the stern of the vessel, and fears were entertained that damage would be done to the propeller. Accordingly the hoisting- apparatus was placed in position, and the screw was lifted into the well which had been built for its recep- tion. Several attempts were made to unship the rudder, but the ice was bound against it so firmly that it could not be moved. It was left to its fate, and preparations were made for supplying its place in case it were carried away. ill A 98 1871. Septcmlier Looking for a Harbor. The ship, whllo drifting, had boon set by the wind toward the western coast, and a bay was seen nearly opposite which appeared to promise secure anchorage. Captain Hall, taking Mr. Chester with him, crossed the floe to which the vessel was attached, to examine the ice between it and the shore, and to judge of the possibility of making an opening for the Polaris into this bay. The floe was very large, although not the largest of those which impeded and finally closed the navigation of the channel. It was about two miles broad by perhaps three or four in length, and drifted with its narrow end to the south. Its surface was uneven, so that at the distance of a mile, one would be entirely lost sight of while in its depressions, and would be seen only on the elevations. The bottoms of these floes are usually covered with small lakes, formed during the short summer by the melting of the ice and snow. These lakes are frozen solid during the winter, but in the summer and early autumn they reflect the sun from their surfaces and exhibit a variety of colors beneath. Their waters are sufficiently fresh for use when first melted, but after considerable evaporation they cease to be palatable. When Hall and his party reached the western edge of the floe they climbed some hummocks twenty feet above its average level. They judged that they were within four miles of the land, and discovered, much to A Nip, their joy, that the mouth of the bay seemed to bo open; also, that with a little management the vessel might reach it from the western side of the floe. Thoy began to return in haste, that they might form an opinion whether there was an opportunity for the ship to round the floe either to the north or to the south. But before they reached the vessel, the open spaces extending toward the bay on the western coast closed up, and the heavy ice again covered the surface of the water. Even if the ves- sel had been able to round the floe, she could have made no progress toward the bay, her place of shelter. Captain Hall was very much disappointed: he had entertained during his walk strong hopes that the ship would have been before night safely anchored in this bay. At 7 p. m., a huge berg bore down upon the vessel, piling up the masses of ice before it. A strong easterly wind blowing at the time accelerated its movement, and, driving the smaller pieces more rapidly than the floes, accumulated them about the vessel. She suffered a nip. The pressure was so great that the hawsers, bent to the ice-anchors in the floe, parted under the strain. The ship heeled over, and was almost forced upon the sur- face of the floe. The ice was piled up to the bulwarks, and the timbers creaked. The ice being twenty feet thick, pressed with such power that there was every reason to expect the most disastrous consequences. Active propa- 90 1871. §cpteinbcr ii i. i - ^ # 100 1871. September Landing Stores. rations wore made for preserving life if the vessel should bo destroyed. Stores, provisions, guns, and ammunition were taken from the hold and placed on dock. At 9 p. m., the mnA moderated and the pressure of the ice dirainished so much that the ship righted; all was quiet during the remainder of the night. The morning of the 2d, was cloudy; a light wind blew from the northeast, and snow-squalls prevailed. Land was seen through the occasional openings in the thick mist and drifting snow. These glimpses were suf- ficient to show that the Polaris was being carried rapidly to the south. The chances seemed to bo that she would not be released from her icy prison, and would be either destroyed or carried to the south during the whole of the long winter about setting in. It became prudent to pre- pare for the worst. It was decided to land sufficient coal and provisions upon the ice to supply the wants of the ship's company during the winter; and to do this immediately. At 2 p. m., all hands were called and set to work transferring the stores from the Polaris to the floe. They were run off on inclined planes and carried a short distance back on the floe by means of sledges. Two sleds were used ; one belonged to Hans Hendrick ; the other, presented by Mr. Henry Grinnell, of New York, had been used by Lieutenant Hartstene in his voyage for the relief of Dr. e e 4 %>^ C m .m ,-j^s lefct f --«* Landimi Stores. \n ;">'"'' :'M'\ i V..' :, .' ; should ; , '•• rjtorcH, provisioiw, guup, and uiinuuiiitiort .aken iVodi tho hold and pla«X"'i ^-n dock. •• 3 'he wind moderated and the prf>osm ,,he ico '^•^"tiiiic^hed so mnch that tho bhi^^ ri^i^htcd: all wat? quioi" . •! .> •» ;,,iiu»'r o!" i]k/ nip-ht. Til.. t>iorning of ibc 2(i, was cloudy: a light wind ■ 'r:'! thr northeast, and f-.now-sqnalls prevailed. m throuL^h ♦ho occasionnl o})enings in the iiow. Tl'. -0 "■!n,-itico« wore sut- ' ■■ ■ "tug- carried rapidly - *;■! )f: cither ho ^vhole of iho pa..''' • ' ^ufhcit {\\ coal and provi.>ions ■ hi^ wants of ihe .ship's companv • ." do fir*" iinnindlatci' . At 2 •■•■'- ■''■'■' -' ' ■' 'H'n'k uaaslerring »''»!. iP'- . ■ l\.. V were run ■ ' '"' liisttinee back "•^.,• . ■ usod ; f * i f ' ., >• ■■' ' ■ ';. !■:,•. - ;■-, ; by ' Dr. Divine Service. 101 Kane. To double the chances of saving something if the 1871. ice should break up, two piles of stores were made on the floe at some distance from each other. At 2.30, the pressure was again felt, though by no means so great as before. A very thick snow-storm added to the gloominess of the scene. Since the danger was imminent the men worked very hard. When the deck had been pretty well cleared and the stores on the ice carefully packed and secured in the two places of de- posit, other articles were broken out from below, and placed on deck for immediate use. Having worked until midnight, the crew was sent below to take the rest they had fairly earned. On the 3d, the wind shifted to the southeast. Snow fell nearly all day in large quantities. The land was rarely in sight, but enough was seen to lead to the conclu- sion that the ship was still drifting south. The change in the wind had loosened the ice and relaxed the pressure on the ship. The floe to which she had been again fastened turned in different directions. The loose pieces of ice near the vessel also felt the effect of this relaxation, and occasionally opened for an instant. At 11 a. m., all hands were called to the cabin to attend divine service. Before the service Captain Hall took the opportunity to speak of their work and future prospects. He said that the vessel had reached latitude hilA % ;}■ B,-l i 102 1871. September I Remarks of Captain Hall 82° 26' N.— a position higher than that attained by any other ship ; that they had done all they could, and had only given in to a force that it was impossible to resist ; that if it were God's will that the .^essel should con- tinue to drift during the winter, they still might be proud of the success already accomplished; that even if nothing more we^-p done, he felt amply repaid for all his labors; and that they might all be proud to return to their country with such a record as they had already made. He assured them that they had no reason for doubting the final accomplishment of their ardently- desired object— reaching the Pole. In conclusion, ho urged upon all to give the closest attention to the reli- gious services in which they were about to engage, as, at that particular time, they all needed the assistance of a higher power. Immediately upon the close of these remarks divine service was conducted by Mr. Bryan. Hermann Siemens, a very devout man, thus closes the record of the day: "Ship and crew appear to be a ready prey to the ice. But there is a God, who aids and saves from death; to Him I trust, between these icebergs, although I know that I do not deserve all the good He grants me." The heavy snow-storm and the southeast wind con- tinued on the 4th, until 2 a. m., when the weather cleared. During the morning the sun made its appear- Casting off. 103 ance for the first time since August 29th, but was again 1871. obscured before the artificial horizon could be made **■***""***' ready on the floe ; and no other opportunity of taking an observation occurred. The atmosphere was compara- tively clear, and from the mast-head a considerable por- tion of the surrounding ice could be seen. From its movement and the favorable aspects of the weather, it was thought that the ice would soon open and free the vessel, giving her another chance to secure a safe anchor- age. To be prepared to take advantage of a favorable opportunity, the men were set to work to get on board the stores which had been placed upon the floe. At the end of four hours of active labor, at I p. m., the ship was ready to leave the ice. With a good deal of difliculty the ice was cleared from the propeller-well, and the screw was shipped. At 2 p. m., the wind shifted to the northeast, accelerating the movements of the ice and greatly assisting in opening a passage. At 9 p. m., steam having been raised, the ves- sel cast ofi" from the floe and began to steam in toward the eastern coast. In a short time she was clear of the ice, and in a channel of open water extending some four or five miles from the land, and " toward the North as far as could be seen from the mast-head." When the ship started, she was about thirteen miles to the southeast of that cape which forms the southern III 104 1871. September Providential Escape. entrance on the Greenland side to the channel from which she had just drifted. As the vessel approached the land a peculiar smell of hurning cloth filled the air. On an investigation ordered by Hall, it proved to be owing to the burning of the felt covering on the little boiler of the engine. Further ex- amination revealed the alarming fact that the feeding cock had been accidentally turned off by the carelessness of a sea- man who had hung upon it something to dry. With admirable presence of mind, Engineer Schumann immedi- ately hauled the fires and took precautions to prevent any water from being pumped into the boiler until it had cooled. The safety of the ship was entirely owing to his prompt action. Captain Hall and the ship's company entertained a most grateful sense of their deliverance from a frightful calamity. This escape immediately following their deliv- ery from their ice-bound prison, inspired them with the deepest sense of their dependence on Divine Providence. Midnight found the Polaris close in to the shore. Hall started in a boat to look for a good anchorage. He landed, unrolled the national flag, and took possession of the land which he had discovered. Upon his return to the ship at 1.30 a. m. on the 5th, the anchor was dropped in ten fathoms of water, about 300 yards from the shore. According to the log-book, during the three hours At Anchor. 105 and a quarter from getting under way at 8.45 p. m. until 1871. the vessel stopped at midnight, the course by compass had been S. by E. i E., and the distance made was 13.8 miles. By the position of the ship when anchored (subsequently determined), her place at the moment of getting under way was lat. 81° 32' N., long. 63° 05' W.; hence during the four days of drift the vessel had moved to the south a distance of about 48 miles in a direct line. It was with a feeling of intense relief that Captain Hall heard the rattling of the chain as the anchor was dropped. He was so convinced of his ability to accom- pUsh long distances by means of sledge-journeys that he would have been resigned even if compelled to winter farther south. The experience of the past few days was by no means pleasant; he frequently called to mind the ac- counts of those ships which, having been beset, had drifted far to the south during the whole of a loi;^ winter. Such an event, which would have put an end to the ex- pedition, was a risk not to be lightly incurred. But not relying wholly upon his own judgment and experience in ice-navigation. Hall again consulted, separately, his sailing- master, assistant navigator, and mate, as to the practica- bility of attempting to get farther north in the vessel. He came to the ( onclusion that such an attempt would be injudicious, and this conclusion was strengthened by the i lOG Mest. seJfeLber '"'"''''""^ ^'"""^^^ ^'''^ ^^ *^^® *^^ Esquimaux, Joe and Hans, who had been sent to the top of the cape overlook- ing the Channel to examine the condition of the ice. They reported that the straits were covered over with a dense fog, completely obstructing the view; but they believed, from many signs which their experience enabled them to interpret, that the condition of the ice in the strait was not materially changed, and that it would be useless to attempt its navigation. The present situation of the Polaris was one of great comfort and relief to all hands. After the ship had been made snug and the watch set, the officers and men went below to make up for past privations of rest and sleep. The next day the crew was set to work transferring stores to the shore. This was done as a measure of safety. ifr^^-— V CHAPTER V. The harbor, which was to be the winter home of the 1871. Polaris, was by no means a snug anchorage. It was, **'***'"***'' however, inside of the line of the main current, and was somewhat sheltered by a bold cape about four miles to the north, and west of the ship's position. This cape forms one of the southern entrances to the strait which had just been discovered. Hall named it after the Secre- tary of the Navy, to whom he had been indebted for important aid in securing the expedition. Ho was never weary during the voyage, of acknowledging his obliga- tions to the President and to Mr. Robeson. He thought that to them more than to any others he owed his success, and that, in return for their kindness, he should labor the more diligently to perform the work before him. In the same spirit he named the cape, already mentioned, after his early friend and constant supporter, Col. James Lup- ton. Besides the immunity from the current-driven ice 110 Providence Berg. sepitmber"^ I^«^cson Strait, afforded by this capo, thoro was another source of protection. The Polaris was anchored just inshore of the largest iceberg seen since entering Kennedy Channel. Grateful for this indispensable secu- rity, Captain Hall named it Providence Berg. Hermann Siemens gives its dimensions as follows: Length, 450 feet; breadth, 300 feet; and height above the water, 60 feet. Subsequently the name seemed to have been pro- phetic, for it was the means of saving the ship from de- struction, and the members of the expedition from great suffering if not from death. A largo quantity of stores and provisions were landed, in order that, if the vessel should be destroyed by the ice, the crew could live comfortably. A light wind from the northeast blew all day, accompanied by snow- squalls. At some distance from the shore, to the north and east, rose a high and steep hill, to which was sul)se- quently given the name of Observatory Bluff. The land, as seen from the ship, consisted of a very broken series of elevations and depressions, interrupted by occasional spurs, which gave variety to the view. The mountain-ranges varied in direction from south to east, and in elevation from nine hundred to fourteen hundred feet. Several prominent peaks made themselves conspic- uous in the furthest and highest range. The mountains Character of the Country. aro composed of an argillaceous schist, the debris o^ which, the result of atmospheric influences, has spread over large surfaces. No depth of soil is met with ; not the slightest trace of vegetation, except a few lichens upon the rocks (principally erratic) strewed over the hills. On the fragments of limestone, however, some very luxuriant specimens of lichens were occasionally found. The debris from Cape Lupton reached almost to the sea-shore, leaving a narrow passage only, formed by the ice-foot, which, beginning at that point, extended along the eastern shore of Robeson Strait. The plain was cut by several channels of water running from the neigh- boring hills to the sea. Bowlders were scattered over the plain in every direction. Fresh-water lakes were seen, affording feeding-ground for birds ; also several species of grasses and of Arctic flowering plants. In some few places real soil appeared, and on it the flora of the brief Arctic summer was abundant. Near the water-courses and in the neighborhood of the lakes, constantly liable to overflow, an alluvium had been formed, which, enriched by the birds in great numbers, constituted the garden-spots in this otherwise desert plain. At this date the snow, which it was evident had fallen during the last few days, covered the land generally. Occasionally were seen in some deep gorge the remains of the last winter's snow, where it had been closely packed 111 1871. September 112 1871. September 1^ Esquimaux Remains. by the winds and partially sheltered from the continuous sun of the Arctic day. On the afternoon of the 5th, Captain Hall and Dr. Bessels took a walk down the coast to the south- ward; they discovered the remains of sumraer-tents of Esquimaux. These remains are well known to Arctic explorers and have often been described. They consist simply of stones lying- on the ground in a circle. The tents are made of seal-skin, and the stones are placed upon their outer edges to keep the skin taut over the ridge, and also to prevent the wind from entering or overturning them. The Esquimaux are accustomed, upon removing from their temporary homes, to take down the pole supporting the tent, and drag the skin from beneath the stones, leaving the latter in position and therefore easily identified as having served this purpose. There were several of these circles near each other, proving that quite a large party of Esquimaux had passed a part of a summer in that place. Nothing indicated the length of time since these teats were occupied. The Esquimaux had certainly been ther j ; for afterward, upon searching closely, several pieces of bone were found with holes bored in them, and a small piece of copper once used as a needle. Among the ashes in the fire-place was found a piece of meteoric iron, by means of which they had obtained fire. The Esquimaux, Hannah, found most of these ■■"tSP* Polaris Bay. 113 articles, and recognized the purposes to which they had 1871. been applied, September Upon the return of Hall to the vessel, he reported that he had seen a bay a few miles south of the anchor- age, which he thought would make a better harbor. The anchor was weighed, and the Polaris steamed five or six miles down the coast. Many soundings were taken, but all the little bays were found to be too shoal. During the summer a number of streams disembogue along that coast, bringing down much material and filling up the bays. Unable to find a suitable harbor the vessel returned; and at 5.30 p. m., resumed her first anchorage. Large flocks of brent-geese were seen sporting themselves in the water, and occasionally a seal would raise his head to watch the intruders upon his feeding-grounds. The morning of the 6th, brought in a light breeze from the N. N. E., with snow^squalls. The crew were again early set to work transferring stores from the ship to the shore, in which labor they were engaged all day. To expedite their work, two whale-boats, with planks laid across, were employed, and the distance being short the trips were rapidly made, and the ship was soon considera- bly lightened. Toward noon, the sun came out bright ; the instruments were taken on shore, and observations made, for the determination of the position. Captain Hall 8 : f 114 1871. September A Walk to Gape Lupton. from his meridian altitude obtained for the latitude 81° 38' jN". a careful reduction of all the altitudes taken at this time gave the more accurate determination of 81° 37'. This result was confirmed by subsequent observations. Immediately after meridian, Captain Hall, accompa- nied by the members of the scientific corps, started on a walk to Cape Lupton. His object was to reach its sum- mit in order to commence a survey of the surrounding coasts, and to ascertain, by personal inspection, the state of the ice in Uobeson Strait. The party was provided with a small Casella theodolite, a pocket aneroid barome- ter, and a pocket prismatic compass ; a rifle was also car- ried. They walked up the coast toward the north over the snow-covered plain, crossing the gulleys and lakes, winding their way through massive bowlders occasionally found in clusters, and selecting the summits of the little hillocks and edges of the ridges, and generally those places where the snow was least deep, avoiding the val- leys, gorges, and other depressions. It was, however, impossible to keep wholly out of the deep snow, because the direction of all the water-courses, of the gulches, and most of the valleys, ran across their path. When the deep ravine, separating Cape Lupton from the range of mountains of which Observatory Bluff is part, was reached, fatigue began to show itself ; yet the most diffi- cult part of the journey still lay before them — the ascent -«lp The Ascent of the Cape. of the Cape. Dr. Bessels became interested in its geolog- ical structure, and left the party in order to pursue his investigations among the terraces at its base, and to exam- ine the fossiliferous bowlders of the plain. The best mode of making the ascent was fully discussed. The ravine seemed to be the easiest way, be- cause its ascent was gradual, and, after passing the en- trance, the slope of the mountain was less. But it was the longer, and the snow-drifts within it were stili too fresh to bear the weight of a man. The side of the cape directly facing the ship was so steep as to make it very difficult to climb. In the per- pendicular side fronting the ravine, however, there was a gorge leading to the top of the mountain. This gorge was narrow and rough, but filled with fresh snow, which would break a fall. It was selected for their route, and the three commenced the ascent in Indian file. For a time the progress was batisfactory, and objects in the plain below, began to appear smaller. Soon, however, it was discovered that the passage was considerably steeper than had been supposed; it became very difficult. The snow, thought to be a few inches deep, was really in some places several feet in depth. Traveling up a steep incline, and wading through snow above the knees, and too loose to bear a person's weight, yet too firm to be easily broken, proved to be much severer labor than had been expected. 115 1871. September 116 The Ascent of the Gape. Ill 11 " i sejtember ^^^^ P^rspiration flowed freely, and had they not heen animated with the spirit of true explorers they would have retraced their steps. When two-thirds of the dis- tance to the summit had been accomplished, Captain Hall left the gorge and sought a pathway to the right, on the edge of the wall of the ravine. His experience in Arctic travels, backed by much personal strength and activity, carried him to the summit, where he was finally joined by his companions, Bryan and Meyer. The point now reached was the southern edge of the mountain, while the real object of their walk was a still higher elevation, near- ly a mile beyond, bordering on Robeson Strait. The country to the west and north towards the strait is rouo-h and broken. On the way, they met with a curious rock formation, which had the general appearance of a house. It was six or seven feet high, with an area of about one hundred square feet, and was the only thing in that wide waste which suggested thoughts of man and of human habitation. The party had the usual experience of travelers in Arctic regions. The elevation immediately before them seemed to be the end of the journey until it was reached; but on gaining the top another eminence showed itself, and, perhaps, beyond this, yet another appeared. The deception and disappointment in this experience are partly due to the extreme clearness of the atmosphere, which The Return. 117 diminishes the apparent distance, by making objects seem 1871. to be near, because they are distinctly seen. In spite of ^*"»**"'*" these disappointments the travelers persevered, reaching finally the highest point of the mountain. It bordered on Kobeson Strait, of which they obtained an excellent view. The western coast was very distmctly seen as far as Cape Union; beyond that, three peaks only, were ob- served. The eastern coast was cut off from view by a projecting cape three or four miles above. Between the two coasts nothing obstructed the horizon. It was an ice-horizon on which no water-cloud appeared. The channel, as far as could be seen in both directions, was mostly filled with heavy and closely-packed ice. Immedi- ately under Cape Lupton and about the ship were patches of open water. After the observations were taken. Captain Hall and his party prepared to return, and found the gorge much easier of descent. At 6.30 p. m., they arrived at the ship thoroughly fatigued, although unwilling to confess it. The readings of the aneroid indicated that their highest elevation had been between thirteen hundred and fourteen hundred feet. The natives during their absence had been successful in hunting, having brought back a seal and four brent-geese. Early on the morning of the 7th, the wind blew strono- from the S. S. W., and brought portions of the pack in 118 A Seal Shot. 1871. toward the vessel. At 4 a. m., all hands were called, the September anchor was weighed, and the vessel steamed a short dis- tance to the southward, in order to be more fully under the protection of Providence Berg. A great deal of snow fell during the day, forming slush upon the surface of the water, and making the passage of the boats from the ship to the shore very difficult, so that not many stores were landed. On the 8th, a channel through the frozen slush was opened, and the observatory taken to the shore. The building was made in sections, and could be put up without the use of iron, so that it could be employed in magnetic observations. The temperature having fallen considerably, during the past few days, and the sleeping-apartments being un- comfortably cold, a stove was placed in the forecastle, and a small one also in the cabin. In consequence of the frozen slush and the nearness of the pfack, there was very little open water around the ship. In one of the pools, near the berg, a seal bobbed up its head and played about until it attracted the attention of Hans, who shot it with his rifle. In spite, however, of the best efforts of the men, the body sank before it could be reached. The channel between the ship and the shore was kept open with difficulty. The dogs, finding the ice suf- ficiently strong tc bear them, surrounded the vessel in The Harbor Named. 119 quest of food. The sextants riid the artificml horizons, 1871. used in observing for latitudr on the 6th, had been left on ''*«***"""**^' shore, placed securely, as it was thought, in an empty barrel. The dogs overturned the barrel, broke open the boxes, and dragged out some of the instruments, doing, however, no serious injury. To keep them from dis^ turbing the sleep of the crew by their howling, and to provide a bettor shelter for them, one of the boats was turned up on its side on shore and prepared for a kennel. The next day, the men going to feed them found that the ice had become hard enough to bear their weight. Notwithstanding the passing clouds, several altitudes of the sun were taken, from which Captain Hall deduced 61° 44' W. as the longitude of his winter-quarters. The more accurate value subsequently determined was 61° 37' W. On Sunday, at 11 a. m.. Divine service was held, as usual, after which Hall spoke very encouragingly of the prospects of the expedition and of his continued conviction that he would be able to accomplish his principal object. He added that, in humble recognition of the Divine hand by which the expedition had been guided, he had resolved to name this harbor "Thank-God Harbor." The two Esquimaux went hunting in the afternoon, and Hans brought back an Arctic hare weighing 8i pounds. On the 1 1th, Captain Hall announced that the bay discovered 120 Surveys. isri. by the expedition, extending from Cape Lupton to what September . « x r 18 now named on the map Cape Budington, should receive the name of the vessel. Many things had been provided in the vessel's outfit for the entertainment of the crew during the long Arctic winter. To make these available, Hall decided to erect on shore a house for their recreation. It was to be built entirely of boxes and barrels containing clothing and pro- visions. For transporting the materials ashore, two New- foundland dogs were harnessed to a sled, and the work of transportation was carried on, in spite of the high wind and the heavy snow-storm. Messrs. Bryan and Meyer were engaged in local sur- veys, which, however, were much interrupted by the storm raging on the 12th. The following results are given in their journals : The distance from the observatory to Lookout Mountain was 2.26 statute miles ; from the ob- servatory to Cape Lupton, 3.85 statute miles ; and to the ship, 962.2 feet. Hans shot a gull which had exhibited a singular free- dom from apprehension, alighting on the ice in close prox- imity to the ship. The Arctic day was now becoming more sharply defined in its Hmits. Up to this time the expedition had enjoyed a very strong twilight during the absence of the sun, but now that LwiHght was becoming more faint. ttrf-; •': Snrveijs. ' vi^oilition, . xtendiiig from (,i4»c fjiipton to what i-> i;"W uamcJ on th* .(, n, ('apo lindintrt^Mi, Hhoiild receive the uamo of tit • v, -jui, . Many tliiii'^s had-hocri providod in th(3 vessel'.s outfu- for the ouicrtainuionl, of tlie crew diiriut? the Ion*"- Arctic winter. To make these availob^. , ]{i]]\ decided to erect on shore a house for their recreation. It was to l)e built entirely of boxes and barrels containino^ clothin-^- and pro- visions. For transporting the materials ;i.shore, two New- foiHi.Ujvnd dotrs were harnessed to a sled, and ilie work of >um Willi carried on, in spite of the hiu^li wind •4»(1 in loenl sur- ir-^Trnpted by the <": viiigrosultsaretriven • < lit) ui>iiifici; from the ob.«:<^rvatory to i/uokout Mountain was 2.26 statute inilt\s ; iVom the ob- snrvatory to (Jape Lupton, 3.85 statute-miles; and to the .•^hip, 9G2.2 feet. Hans shot a <,qill which had exhibited a singular free- (^'m from apprehension, alighting on the ice in close prox-- imiiy to the ship. Tho Arctic day w.^is now becoming more .^iiarply 'i'l in its Ihnit 1 j. to this time tiie expedition liad . ;' o nnrr i w i nvi > w¥ ii rn »iM-MiM H i«BPii tuin A Narrow Escape* At 3 a. m. on *hr 13th, all hands wore called on dock. The watch had lo; orted that the ico was hroaklng up. Without kno • , hat might be the result it was thought, best to have eve.., jne in readiness. The threatened dis- ruption did r<^v ake place until 10 a. m., when a heavy floe broke up the young ice and forced its way toward the vessel. It gave evidence of its progress by the long cracks, extending even to the land, and by its piling up the ico on it. There appeared to be some danger of its forcing the Polaris from her anchorage. While surveying, Mr. Meyer narrowly escaped a seri- ous accident. He had ascended in a gorge through two- thirds of the way when he came to a perpendicular wall of rock, the height of which did not exceed six feet. Placing his tripod on it, he attempted to climb over by holding on to its rough surface; but when nearly up, the ground under his feet gave way, and he slid rapidly down over the smooth surface of the snow through the gorge. Fortu- nately he recovered himself before he reached the base, and escaped with torn clothes and a few bruises. He was, however, obliged to renew the ascent in order to gain the tripod, which he dislodged from its place by stones. Some changes in the internal arrangements of the ship, particularly those for sleeping and eating, were ren- dered necessary by the approach of winter. The special 121 1871. September 122 1871. September Preparing for Winter. object of these was the economy of fuel and the berthing of the whole crew below deck. The atate-rooms, being too cold, were given up for sleeping, and Joe and Hans! with their families, were brought down and berthed below. The space was so limited, that it was necessary to set the table twice. But this contraction and crowding together did not impair, in any degree, the sociability and mutual kind feeling which, as is inferred from the journals, existed in the officers' mess. Hall's own temper was eminently social, and his nature was called into play by the conge- nial circumstances with which he was surrounded. Happy in the prospect before him. he took part as well in the mirthful conversations of the mess as in the serious dis- cussions; he assisted in carrying out harmless jokes. In the amiable rivalry between Captain Budington and the mate, Mr. Chester, as to the merits of their respective towns, he took great interest, not ouly enjoying the witty re(iorts of the mate, but helping to draw the whole mess into them. In this intrinsic qualification of an Arctic explorer, the will and the effort to promote cheerful occupation, mutual confidence and regard, he was by no means deficient. The bull's-eyes of the port-holes were dull, and, in order to have good light during meals, the door of the pas- sage-way was generally left open. This was not unpleasant while the thermometer was above the freezing-point, but it had now become too cold ; even with the door shut, the pas- The Steward^s Difficulties. 123 sage was not remarkably warm. The dishes had always 1871. to bo brought from the galley on the forward deck. The **'^'*'"**®' ruHng divinity there, was a colored man named Will- iam Jackson. The steward had not encountered much difficulty in carrying the provisions aft, since the anchor was dropped in Thank-God Harbor, and since the dogs had been taken on shore. Before that time, however, it was a very serious matter to be seen on deck with any eatables. Herron was a small man, and when beset by a crowd of the ravenous brutes, he had great difficulty in forcing his way with safety, from the cook's galley to the door that led into the passage. Now that he was freed from the interference of the dogs, he had another and more invincible enemy to contend with, and that was the cold. The cook also found his position by no means a comfortable one, notwithstanding the heat of the galley. To remedy these troubles, as much as possi- ble. Captain Hall gave up his little state-room and moved into one o^* the berths in the main cabin. Leaving his room for the galley, he hoped that its heat would warm the passage sufficiently to continue its use as a dining- saloon. Joe and Hans, as the result of their day's work, brought on board late in the evening three fine hares, and reported that they had seen traces of musk-oxen. On the 14th, the erection of the recreation-house was 124 1871. Sepuember I Surveying. begun, Mr. Chester laying the corner-stone with appropri- ate ceremonies. As the shore-line to the southward was low and without distinct features, it was decided to go over the ground and mark such points as were to be included in the survey of the bay. Mr. Meyer had brought some sig- nal-flags and staves, which were used to good purpose as a means of identifying the low projections of the coast. Bryan, Meyer, and Mauch started at 8 a. m. to carry out the plan ; their intention being to reach the mountain at the entrance to the southern fiord. Vvhich they thought to be about ten miles distant. The more experienced Arctic navigators knew it to be nearer twenty. It rose so high and appeared so distinct against the horizon, that it seemed impossible to beheve it was more than ten miles off, and the unexpressed conviction was that it was not more than six or eight. On their way down the coast, many flags were placed on the projecting points of tho extensive plain, some thirty or forty feet above the sea-level. Aftc r lunch- ing on a few Graham crackers, the party started to cross Polaris Bay on the ice, in the direction of Cape Tyson. The ice proved to be much broken, with many hum- mocks, so that rapid progress was impossible. A gull was the only living creature seen. It approached quite iiear, circling over their heads while they were planting the staves. After four hours' travel over the rough ice of Ice Movements. i25 the bay the cape seemed still as far off as when they 1871. started. Convinced that they could not reach it before ®*'»**"**'"* night closed in, the party returned to the ship. The natives, who had been absent all day, hunting on the land, had found no game, but had again seen recent tracks of musk-oxen. Hall was gratified to learn this, for its promise of fresh meat. No one knew better its value as an anti-scorbutic. The day had been remarkably pleas- ant, but late in the evening a southerly gale set in, which drove the pack in toward the ship. The newly-formed ice, as if endowed with life, rose into hummocks and cracked into pieces, which piled themselves on each other. The formation of hummocks in this way is curious and worthy of observation. Under a severe pressure, an ex- panse of young ice may not crack, but in many places rise up, as though acted on by some local force below, and afterward break, leaving large slabs about the place of fracture. Providence Berg afforded great protection to tue Po- laris; but at 0113 time, during this day, the ico pressed so hard ago i, .St her stem, as to endanger the cable leadinp- over the U> V to the anchor. The cable was paid o.-t The v7ind lulled at 6.15 a. m. of the IStli, and the ice- piet^;; M ceased. It sno.ved during this day. The men were employed perfecihig the arrangements for the winter, and af ±q la*- 126 A Surveying Party. 1871. same time preparations were made for a huntinff-party to September & r j start on the following Monday on a long hunt for musk- cattle. At 9 a. m. of the 16th, Bryan, Meyer, and Mauch started again on a tramp to the south, to complete the work commenced on the 14th. They measured some angles at the places previously marked, eating their lunch under the lea of a large snow- bank, while the wind was blowing briskly from S. S.W. Guided by former experience, instead of crossing for Cape Tyson they directed their steps toward a mountain farther east, with the intention of following thence the coast-line to the entrance of the fiord. They found ^/he ice of the bay very rough, besides which in some places there was considerable depth of snow. They began to discover that Captain Hall's estimate of the distance oi the mountain was much more accurate than their own. After much toiling they reached the shore at 6 p. m. Ascending the plateau about forty feet above the ice, they found it was broken ground to the base of the mountain, distant about half a mile. Cape Tyson was still nearly four miles off. It was detc^rmined to end the base line here instead of at the Cape, in order to make the best of the remaining day. This base was twelve miles long and was sufficient for the protraction of the opposite coast. The high wind gave them a great deal of trouble, and Discouraging Experiences. added to the labor and difficulty of their work. On its completion, the party started on a direct line for the ship, not taking into account the effect of the high 'vind upon the ice in the bay. Two of them, Bryan and Meyer, wore Esquimaux foot-gear, being otherwise dressed in their ordinary clothes. These skin boots and stockings, besides keeping the feet warm, are light. But Mauch wore a pair of cow-hide boots, too large for hir-, and very heavy. Darkness over- took them on their way, increasing their dilBculties and danger. They soon tired of climbing over the hummocks and wading through the snow. At such a moment the close quarters and other discomforts of life on shipboard are forgotten, and the warmth and light of a little cabin are remembered with pleasure. They could not see the ship, and, to judge of the progress made, they occa- sionally looked back at the mountain, they were leav- ing, in hopes of seeing it grow lower and dimmer. It would not leave them, but rose high and drear, as plain to the sight as at first. The effect of this was distressing. Fixing their eyes on an iceberg ahead they determined not to look back until th^7 had passed it; they then turned to see the effect of Mieir progress on the mountain. Yet it still seemed to stand above their heads no less distinct in out- line, and no less gloomy than before. There was no get- 127 1871. September 128 A Gold Bath. September ^^"^ ""^'^^ ^^""^ ^^' '^^"^ produced a state of mental depression which lowered their spirit, and impaired their strength. They toiled over the dreary waste with mechanical eftbrt. Bryan and Meyer, having the advantage of light foot-gear, and perhaps of greater endurance, advanced more rapidly than Mauch. Fearing to leave him alone, whenever they had lost sight of him, they waited for him to come up. They had not heen long upon the ice before they discovered that the wind had seriously affected its condition. Numerous cracks appeared, to cross which in safety required the utmost care. To increase the diffi- culty, the wind, which continued to blow very strong, carried with it a large quantity of light snow, making the detection of cracks very perplexing by blinding the sight or actually covering them with the drift. Notwith- standing all their caution, Meyer fell into a crack, but extricated himself before the water had reached much above his knees. Not long afterward, Bryan attempted to leap over a crack, in spite of Meyer's warnings that the opening was too wide and the opposite side was not solid. He found himself up to his shoulders in water, when, being rescued with the assistance of Meyer, ho crossed over at a narrower opening. They wore at this time not quite half way to the ship, and the prospect of remaining so long in their rapidly-freezing clothes was A Wearisome Journey. i29 by no means pleasant. Mauch still lagged behind, and 1871. again they once or twice wai„od for him. If remaining **•***""*" stationary was, before this, uncomfortable on account of the cold and the high wind, it now became positively dangerous ; their wet state demanded that they should lose no time in reaching the Polaris. Mauch fared no better. He fell in up to his waist; and afterward, as he expresses it in his journal, " was compelled to take the temperature of Polaris Bay twice more." Finally, however, they all reached the shore, which, on account of the broken and unsafe condition of the ice, they made for, sooner than they would otherwise have done. Their clothing was by this time frozen solid, and their hands were encased in mittens of ice. The Esquimaux boots, being water-tight, retained all the water entering them over the tops which had not been properly secured. In walking, it rose and fell ; though by no means comfortable, it was thus prevented from freezing. On their reaching the land the ship was still three or four miles distant; the remainder of the walk was dreary enough. Satisaed that Mauch could get along very well on land, Bryan and Meyers pushed on to the ship. Walking in frozen clothing is difficult, and this, added to their wea' riuess, delayed them so much, that it was one-half hour after mjdnight when they reached the vessel. Captam 130 Aboard. 1871. Hall had begun to feel September 3ry anxious, and was about organizing a relief-parly when the two appeared. Eager inquiries were made for Mauch. Morton and Herman Siemens at once prepared themselves and started in search of him. They found him quite near the vessel, much ex- hausted, rolling about like a drunken man, and scarcely having any consciousness left. The officers manifested much interest in the accounts given by the travelers. As soon as Bryan reached the vessel he gave way, and did not recover his consciousness until he had been undressed and had lain some time in his bunk. Opening his eyes, and seeing the captain and sev- eral of the officers watching him, he said very slowly, "Captain — traveling — in — this — country — is — very — dis- couraging." This remark was greeted by rounds of laughter, and doubtless his conclusion was fully justified by his late experience. Probably the laugh was due quite as much to the relief afforded by his return to conscious- ness as to the aptness of the remark. After divine service, Captain Hall announced that he had appointed William Morton yeoman, with J. B. Mauch as assistant. Mauch had been selected by Hall, Septem- ber 7, as his clerk, and had proved himself well qualified for his duties. In speaking of the approaching winter. Hall exhorted the members of the expedition to preserve friendly relations with each other. Hunting Party. Early in tho morning of the 18th, a hunting-party, conducted by Mr. Chester, loft the vessel in search of musk-oxen. Dr. Bessels accompanied Mr. Chester, for tho purpose of making a geological exploration and of collect- ing specimens in natural history. The two Esquimaux. Joe and Hans, were added to the party as dog-drivers and hunters. A sled drawn by eight dogs carried the tent, sleeping-bags, and provisions for seven days. A fire-hole was cut in the ice near the Polaris for the supply of water in event of fire. The next day the wind blew so high that it was found necessary to brace the observatory with planks. The North Star was seen on the 21st, for the first time since the establishment of winter-quarters. A large halo was observed encircling the sun. On the 23d, Captain Hall extended the duties of a board which had been previously appointed to make a list of the articles stored on shore, ordering them to embrace in their survey everything belonging to the expedition. The stores were taken out of the hold, and, after lists of them were made, restored to their places. An awning had been prepared to cover the deck of the vessel durin^r winter. The forward part of this was now put in place" It afforded a perfect protection to the deck. There had been for several weeks dissatisfaction among the men on account of the quality of their fooj. 131 1871. , September 132 Letter from the Men. l«Tl. On their complaint being made, Hall promised them September redress, and on the next day said, after morning service, that a difference between the forward and after mosses had been made without his knowledge and contrary to his wishes ; that it was his desire that they should all live together as brothers : and that he wished to have it un- derstood that hereafter the same kind of food should be prepared for both messes. This action on the part of Hall led to the following letter : " The men forward desire publicly to tender their thanks to Capt. C. F. Hall for his late kindness, not, how- ever, that we were suffering want, but for the fact that it manifests a disposition to treat [us] as reasonable men, possessing intelligence to appreciate respect and yield it only where merited ; and he need never fear [but] that it will be our greatest pleasure to so live that he can implic- itly rely on our service in any duty or emergency. " H. Siemens, " and others." Captain Hall was much pleased at receiving this let- ter from the men, and sent the following answer : " SiKS : The reception of your letter of thanks to me of this date I acknowledge with a heart that deeply and fully appreciates the kindly spirit that has prompted you Halts Reply. "to this act. I need not assure you that your commander has and over will have a lively interest in your welfare. You have left your home, friends, and country— indeed, you have bid farewell for a time to the civilized world— lor the object to aid me in discovering these mysterious hidden parts of the earth ; therefore, I must and will care for you as a prudent father cares for his faithful children. " Your commander, " C. F. Hall." At 3.30 p. m., the hunting-party returned. Their journey of nearly a week had perhaps improved their general health, but had not added much to their personal appearance. The plain to the southeast had been crossed, and an encampment made near mountains which Hall named after Mr. Chester. Their journey had not ex- tended more than twenty-five miles from the ship, but they had seen an extensive plain to the northeast, over which they would have traveled but for the drift of the snow, that filled up hollows and left the ridges bare. One of the objects which Hall had in view in sending out this party was to ascertain if there were a feasible route for an overland sledge-journey toward the north. He was pleased to hear of this large plain, which might aflford the means of convenic'it travel, but was disappointed on learning that there was not enough snow for the sledges. On the sec- ond day out, one of the natives had seen a musk-ox on 133 1871. September IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 i.l lA^i2.8 ■ 50 ""^^B ^ 1^ 2.0 1.8 i.25 II 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► $ /a /a A / >^ y Photographic Sciences Corporation ,-\ ^s^ \\ % v o^ t' «* 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 jj,^^^* Cp. £6> iV V ^ 134 Musk-ox Killed. 1871. the summit of a small hill not far from their tent. The September dogs, being loosed, soon brought the animal to bay, and the four hunters with a few shots killed it. It was very fat, the whole animal weighing three hundred and sixty- nine pounds. It was the only one seen duiing their hunt, and, with the exception of a few hares, was the only thing killed. The musk-ox had never before been met with on the western coast of Greenland, although Dr. Kane found parts of a skeleton near Eensselaer Harbor. Many were killed on the eastern coast by the second German expe- dition (Koldewey's). Captain Hall was anxious to make a sledge-journey before the winter set in, for the purpose of reconrioitering and of selecting the best route for his great journey in the spring toward the Pole. He was very much disap- pointed to learn that there was not enough Piiow upon the plain for sledge-travel, but was determined to carry out his designs, even if he should be compelled to go over the bare ground. He ordered the carpenter to construct a wagon for the transportation of the necessary provisions. A ship-ca,rpenter is expected to be able tc manufacture anything, and accordingly Mr. Coffin, without hesitation, began to frame the wheels. Bryan and Meyer were continually engaged in the survey of th( bay and its surroundings, making frequent and long excursions for this purpose. i 134 Musk-ox KW'- ' 1871, liio summit or a >u. >il '"'. aot iar iVoui fiu-i u.^t. TIio dogs, beiag \*M .,. .s^oii brou Ti^k*^. a ttledge-jouriv..y \n . '.- winter set hi, t<>r tho !> €i;s«:uioitenn(>" the sprintf t'-\\ . ' s^ ^viy Dfteh u^- j»ojhted to iearn that there wa,^ not enough snow upon il»o plain for bledge-travel, but was determined to carry out his designs, oven if he should l)e compelled to go over the bare ground. He ordered tlie carpenter to construct a, wagou for the transportation of the necessary pro\ isions. ~A ship-carpenter ij> expected to bo able to manufacture anything, and accordingly Mr. Goflin, without hesilatiuu, began to i'ranie the wheels. Bryan and Meyer were continually engaged hi lim survey of the bay and its surrouniliTsg'^, making Iruqueiii and long excursions for this purport:. I I Sledge-Journey Preparations. 135 ) On the 27th, a severe gale from the southwest drove 1871. the pack in toward the vessel and cracked the young ice **■*•*■""**' ahout it. The ice near the shore was thrown into im- mense hummocks; and large packs were formed on either side of the ship. Providence Berg, however, held its ground. The young ice which had formed around the ves- sel was measured, and found to be about sixteen inches in thickness. The pressure by the storm-driven pack was so great, that the ice broke like glass. On the 28th, final preparations were made for Captain Hall's proposed sledge-journey. The dogs were selected and carefully fed. The Esquimaux put the sled in order and examined the harness. The heavy snow-storm pre- vailing during a part of the 27th, and during the next morning, excited hopes that the sled could be used. Those who were selected to accompany Captain Hall were busy making their personal preparations. Large knives, such as are used in cutting blocks of snow to make "igloos" (Esquimaux snow-huts), were provided; suitable provis- ions were stowed in bags, so as to be readily accessible. In this preparation the dogs were not forgotten. Dupli- cates of perishable articles were also furnished. From noon until 3 p. m., the ice-movements again threatened the destruction of the Polaris. The hio-h spring-tide, in connection with a strong breeze from the S. W., brought the pack in against the berg with great S;lf:i \ 136 Tidal Observations. 1871. power. The ice was piled up about the vessel in all man- ner of shapes. The berg, which had hitherto steadfastly maintained its position, moved in toward the shore. The ice between it and the vessel was broken by long cracks and raised into hummocks. The pressure brought upon the ship was very great, as was apparent from the strain upon her frame ; and the eifect of this pressure was seen in its action upon the inside ice, masses of which were thrown up on the shore. It was necessary to veer the cable. If the vessel had not been perfectly strengthened and fitted for this service, she would have been crushed. When the pressure ceased, it was found that the berg had been forced in toward the shore 100 yards, and the ship 50 yards. There was a great deal of snow during the next two days; the wind shifted to the north, and a channel of wa- ter was formed between the floe and the loose pack of the strait, at a distance of about three quarters of a mile from the ship. On the 30th, a tidal apparatus, similar to that used by Dr. Hayes at Port Foulke, was erected over the fire- hole, and regular observations were commenced. After Divine service, October Ist, Captain Hall made known certain rules which he intended to establish. They referred particularly to food, light, fuel, and exercise. Thereafter only two meals were to be served, one at I Hall Condemns Profanity. 137 9 a. m., the other at 3 p. m. The remainder of the rules 18TI. related to the ordinary routine of a ship. An inspection of the stores led to the discovery that the supply of oil was limited ; the idea of the rec- reation-house was therefore abandoned and it was taken down. The stores under the hill in the snow-drifts were car- ried to the plateau on which the observatory stood. Some changes also were made in the lower cabin, enlarging the central space (or country, as it is called), making it suitable for a dining-room if it should be neces- sary to abandon the passage. The two Esquimaux were out hunting daily, skirting the edge of the floe, and making every eflbrt to shoot the seals constantly seen in the open water. They were un- successful until the 5th, when they shot two, one of which they were able to secure. After having observed them closely, they were convinced, by the shyness of the seals, that a tribe of Esquimaux lived in the neighbor- hood. On the 6th, Captain Hall said that he had heard one of the men cursing another. Severely condemning the expressions, he issued an order forbidding all profane or vulgar language. Six of the men, taking with them the small scow, so as to be able to secure the seals that might be shot, before they were carried off by the ice, accompa- >\\ 138 Seal Hunting. 1871. nied the natives on their hunt. During the whole day October. one seal and a white fox were seen, both of which escaped uninjured. VI. f ■^^k 'i i J 1 1 } I 1 i } i 1 « 1 < 1 ii 1 1 HI 3 i 1 i fi 'f 1 H 1 i'. 1 1 1 I [ i 1: % m OHAI-fER VI. !l At morning prayers on th^ 10th, Captain Hall an- 1871. Dounced his intention of starting that day upon a sledge- journey, and in the course of the day he issued the follow- ing letter of instructions: "Sir: I am ahout to proceed on a sledge-journey for the object to determine how far north the land ex- tends on the east side of the strait on which the Polaris is wintering, and also to prospect for a feasible inland route to the northwest for next spring sledging in my attempt to reach the North Pole, this route to be adopted providing the ice of the strait should be found sc hum- mocky that Sisdging over it would be impracticable; and furthermore to hunt musk-cattle, believing and knowing, as I do from experience, that all the fresh meat for use of a ship's company situated as is that of the Polaris, should be secured before the long Arctic night closes iipon us. R i ifi 142 1871. OcSober. Letter to Budington. "P'STRUCTIONS. "You will, as sooD as possible, have the remainder of the stores and provisions tiiat are on shore taken up on to the plain by the observatory, and placed with the other stores and provisions in as complete order as pos- sible. You will have each kind by itself, as near as may be. You will have the ship's housing (winter awning) put up as designed. "Have the night-watch kept up in accordance to my winter instructions of September 23d, with simply this change, that the watch is to be continued until the cook commences his morning work. Have every light in the ship extinguished at S*" p. m., except from this hour a candle-light is to be allowed forward, for the use of the watch. "You will see that no more coal is consumed in any stove of the ship than is actually necessary. I find by thermometers placed in the men's quarters forward an i both cabins aft, that the temperature of the air is kept far higher than it should be, both for economy in the consumption of coal and for the health of the ship's com- pany, the thermometer through the day and evening ranging from 60° to 70°; therefore you will require no more coal shall be consumed than is necesary to keep the thermometer, forward and aft, at 50° through the day and evening. iH Letter to Budington, "A very small fire to be allowed forward to be kept up from d^ p. m. through the night, but the one aft to be discontinued at 9^ p. m. " Have the dogs well cared for, feeding them every other day. Look out some good warm place in the ship for the puppies, and have them well nursed. "Have Mr. Morton get and open one can of pemican, and deal that out economically to the puppies. I h«,. u great hope of securing many musk-cattle on my sledge- journey, and then we can spare much of our ship's pro- vision to the doffs. "Should any such calamity be in store for the Po- laris (which I pray God may not be) that a storm from the northward should drive the ice out of Thank-God Harbor and the Polaris with it during the coming spring- tides, then have steam gotten up as quickly as possible and lose no time in getting the vessel back to her former posi- tion. But should the Polaris be driven into the moving pack-ice of the strait, and there become beset, and you should not be able to get her released, then, unfortunately, the vessel and all on board must go to the southwest, drifting with the pack; God only knowing where and when, you and the ship's company would find means to escape. It might in this case be that such a drift move- ment would occur as in the case of the United States Grinnell Expedition of 1851-52, and of the Fox, under 143 1871. October. ii'S I ■ 4 If I'M * iili I;' 144 Letter to Budlngton. 1871. October. "McClintock, in 1857-58; but whenever you should get released, if anywhere between Cape Alexander and Cape York, or between the latter and the Arctic circle, you will then make your way to Godhavn, Disco Island, and if the Polaris remains seaworthy, you will fill her up with coal, stores, and provisions, and next fall (of 1872) steam back to this place. Tf the vessel should become a wreck, or disabled from the imminent exposure and dangers of such an ice-drift as referred to, then all possible use of your best judgment must be brought into play for the preservation of the lives of all belonging to the expedition. "You would, at your earliest moment of escape, acquaint the Government of the United States with the whole of the circumstances, and should one of those cir- cumstances be the loss of the Polaris, I and my small party, that is about to accompany me on the proposed bledge-journey, would remain here to make discoveries to the North Pole, using Thank-God Harbor as our head- quarters, and all the time feel certain that our country would lose no time in sending us aid, in carrying out the great object of the present expedition. "Although I feel almost certain that the Polaris is safely lodged in her winter position, yet we know not what a storm may quickly bring forth. A full storm from the south can send the pack of the strait infringing upon the land pack, in the midst of which we are, and in a few Letter to Budington. 145 m "'' moments cast the Polaris high and dry on the land. Dur- 1 871. ing the spring- tides let great vigilance be exercised, especially during any gale or storm at the time of high tides. "As soon as time will allow, have snow-blocks cut from the drift under the lee of the hill by the observatory and sledged over to the Polaris, the same to be placed about her as an embankment. "You will have plank and boxes so placed under the poop that the dogs cannot get to the raw-hide wheel- ropes. " The usual routine of the ship that I have established will be gone through with, daily, during my absence. You will see that this is carried out, including church-service on each Sabbath. "The duties that devolve upon Mr. Morton by my appointment are those of paymaster and yeoman. He has full charge, under my directions, of all the accounts, stores, and provisions on board the Polaris and on shore belonging to the United States. Whatever relates to the consumption and use of said stores and provisions, Mr. Morton has charge of, and will be made responsible for the same. I am sure this trust that I have committed to Mr. Morton will be carried out with fidelity and to the best advantage of the United States Government and this, its North Polar Expedition. 10 II «i I I !! 146 1871. Octol»er. Letter to Budington. " A.11 the fuel, kindling, and coal, before being used, mubc pass through the hands of Noah Hayes, who must keep an exact account of the same, which he must render to Mr. Morton, or he may render the account to the chief engineer, and the latter to Mr. Morton. "No box, barrel, package, or anything else con- taining stores or provisions belonging to the Polaris must be opened, but by Mr. Morton. This as well as all other orders that I have issued, you will have carried out. "You will keep a journal of all proceedings during my absence, and transmit the same to me on my return. You will not omit to note such violations of orders that are or may be given, and by whom they are made; neither will you omit to note the meritorious conduct of any or all. "Hoping that God will protect you in the discharge of the high duties which devolve upon you, I bid you adieu and all those of my command, trusting on my re- turn to find 'All's Well;' and trusting, too, that I shall be able to say that my sledge-journey, under the protection and guidance of Heaven, has been a complete success, not only in having made a higher northing, a nearer approach to the North Pole than ever white man before, but that a practicable inland sledge-route far north has The Departure. "been found, and many musk-cattle have been seen and captured. "I have the honor to be, your obedient servant, and respectfully, "0. F. Hall, " Commanding U. S. North Polar Expedition. "To S. 0. BuDmGTON, "Sailing and Ice Master, " CT. S. North Polar Expedition. "Thank-God Haeboe (latitude 81° 38' north ; lon- gitude 61° 44' west), October 10, 1871." The persons selected by Captain Hall to accompany him were Mr. Chester, Joe, and Hans. The start was made at 1 p. m. The one sled was heavily loaded, and although the team was a large one consisting of twelve or fourteen dogs, it was necessary to obtain the assistance of the men who were working among the stores on shore to pull the sled up the hill and through the deep snow for a distance of about a half of a mile. At the separation, three hearty cheers were exchanged. The next morning Hans returned to the ship for another sled, more dogs, and a few small things that had been forgotten. Hall had found the traveling very heavy, and had not been able to make a distance of more than five miles. They waited in an igloo for Hans' return On board ship, during the next few days, all hands 147 1871. October. n 148 Procuring Water. 1871. were set busily to work preparinff for winter. The October. . r r & awning was housed — that is, it was stretched so as to cover the whole deck — and snow-blocks were cut to make a wall around the hull. The water in the tanks having been used, recourse was had to ice. Some of the small pieces in the harbor were fresh-water ice, but the chief supply came from Providence Berg, which was only about three hundred yards from the vessel ; the labor of sledding the ice from it was not great. The engineers attempted to make some arrangement about the galley-pipe for n^elting ice, but were unsuccess- ful. Experience showed, however, that an ample supply of water could be obtained by the use of temporary boilers on the gallcj and the heating-stoves. At meridian of the 16th, the upper limb of the sun was seen for a short time above the tops of the moun- tains; the next day it did not appear. The mountains had an elevation of about \% degrees. ' The long Arctic night had commenced; for one hundred and thirty-two days they would look in vain for the return of the sun. Hitherto, the strait seen from the shore had continued open, the heavy floes moving up and down under the influence of the winds and currents. For a few days previous to the 23d, very severe winds prevailed from the north, driving the ice off from the land and leaving quite a large expanse of open water. At times this was co7- Their Return. 149 f erod by a dense water-cloud or frost-smoke, concealing 1871. the opposite shore, and rendering it impossible to see the ice in the strait, or to determine the breadth of the open- water space. The temperature had varied from a few degrees above zero to eighteen below. At 1.30 p. m., on the 24th, the sledge-party was discovered making its way over the plain, on its return, and at 2 p. m. it reached the vessel. Captain Hall and his companion were at once surrounded by a group of cheerful faces anxious to hear the news. The principal circumstances were soon communi- cated. They were all well, and had been well during their two weeks' absence, excepting Captain Hall, who had complained that he did not have his wonted vigor and endurance ; and during the last three days had not been feeling at all well. He had frequently, during the journey, expressed his surprise that he was not able to run before the sleds and encourage the dogs, as on former expeditions, but had been compelled to keep on the sled. Although the Esquimaux had fired at several seals, they had been without success in securing them. Traces of musk-cattle, of foxes, and of lemming, together with an owl and a few hawks, had been seen. A lar^e litter of pups had been devoured by the dog-team as soon as born. The party had slept every night in snow-houses erected at different places, in one of which they had 150 Incidents, 1871. October. passed a whole day on account of the severity of the wind and the blinding force of the drifting snow. Once they had narrowly escaped suffocation. The four had entered their snow-house for the night, and according to custom had securely fastened up the entrance by a large block of snow. They had neglected to make a hole for ventilation, and the igloo being very well built, was perfectly air-tight. The kerosene lamp and candle having gone out, an attempt was made to relight the latter for Captain Hall to work up his reckonings, but the matches went out immediately upon being struck. Captajn Hall's attention was called to this strange fact ; and while trying to account for it, he began to feel the suffocating effects of the deoxygen- ated air, and called out "Kick down the door." Joe at once obeyed. These details of adventure were listened to with breathless attention by their companions, whose life for the past month had been very unifornl; anything new and stirring was greatly relished. Little rest was allowed the sled-party until everything connected with their journey had been told and retold and fully discussed. Their history told in full ran as follows. Leaving, on the 12th, their first snow- house about five miles from the vessel, beyond Lookout Mountain, they traveled over the plain to the northeast, koeping along the foot of the mountain-range which guards it on the north. They found TRACK OF HAT.lIS LAST Sl.EDC.F. JOIIRNKY l|! 1 si 1 1 f /''■UH't i, i l^,utf'tA,lhl Last sight of the Sun. the snow very deep, and encamped at night near a remark- able hill which rose abruptly and stood alone. Captain Hall thought, and no doubt correctly, that this plain once formed the bed of a river, the hill at that time being an island ; he named it the Inland Monument or Island. At noon of the 13th, about one-quarter of the sun's disk ap- peared above the glacier which covered the mountains to the south. As the few rays of the sun fell upon the ice between two mountains a beautiful phenomenon was wit- nessed : the parhelia glowing with the colors of the rain- bow. From the sun rose a vertical column of red lays to a height of 15°. This was the last look of the sun, — not again to be seen for four months; it was the final ray thrown back by the luminary upon the lamented Hall, seeming to leave with him a parting benediction. At 1.30 p.m., a small lake was discovered, from which ran an icy river in the direction in which they were going. As the traveling upon its smooth surface was good, they resolved to follow it, and soon found themselves wandering in the irregular sinuosities of a ravine. Fol- lowing the course of the river for about one hour, they encamped upon it for the night. Hans cut a hole through the ice and found water, which was a source of satisfaction, since much time and fuel were saved by their not being compelled to melt ice or snow. On the 14th, just as they were about to breakfast, 151 1871. October. 152 1871. October. A Oood Supper. an accident happened which put an end to their iininedi- ato progress. Mr. Chester, in taking the kettle of boiling coffee from the little stove, or conjurer, as it was called, found the iron handles too hot and dropped it. Portions of the contents were dashed into his face, scalding him very severely. Prompt applications of "cosmoHne" brou^jht immediate relief. The following is an extract from Hairs- journal, wrUen on this journey after having retired in the snow- house for the night: "We have just finished our supper, or tea— a two- pound can of preserved meat and vegetables, hard bread, and raw pemmican— and now feel just as well as though we had been feasted by a New York City Alderman. Our standard provision is raw pemmican, the most con- densed and most nutritious of all food. The pemmican we have is the very best I ever ate; indeed, I believe none was ever made by a more honest hand than the hand that made this, Mr. Marshall P. Smith of Baltimore, who is president of the National Preserving Food Company of Baltimore. Ten thousand pou,' Sixth encampment, distant 43 of my light. J measures. (N. 15° E.) ^se: »* The Ctjlinder. 163 " Chester, at my suggestion, took one of the boards of 1871. the twenty-eight pound wooden box, that I ordered to be *""'""*"'* taken apart last evening, (a couple pounds of which we used last night in making scouse,* and six quarts of extra water) and with his knife cut in bold letters 10 F. E. (feet east), and this and thirteen other pieces of that box were scattered about the cairn. It was not without difficulty that we found stones of sufficient size and number with which to build this small pillar. Joe dug the hollow in which to deposit the copper cylinder. This cylinder was one of those specially designed for deposits, and was rendered air and water tight by being sealed with white bees-wax; at the bottom I placed a small piece of board, then on either side two other pieces; and, last, on the top, another; then we covered the same over with three inches of shingle of the plain." The following is the dispatch: "Sixth Snow-House Encampment, " Cape Beevoort, "NOETH SIDE ENTEANOE TO NeWMAN's BaY, " (Latitude 82° 3' north, longitude 61° 20' W.,) ''October 20, 1871. ''To the Honorable Secretary of the United States Navy, "Geoege M. Robeson: "Myself an d party, consisting of Mr. Chester, first • liOb-scouse or olio. I 164 1871. October. The Dispatch. "mate, my Esquimaux Joo, and Greenland Esquimaux Hans, left the ship in winter quarters, Thank-God Harbor, latitude 81° 38' north, longitude 61° 44' west, at meridian of October 10th, on a journey by two sledges, drawn by fourteen dogs, to discover, if possible, a feasible route inland for my sledge-journey next spring to reach the North Pole, purposing to adopt such a route, if found, better than a route over the old floes and hummocks of the strait which I have denominated Robeson's Strait, after the honorable Secretary of the United States Navy. " We arrived on the evening of October 17, having dis- covered a lake and a river on our way ; the latter, our route, a most serpentine one, which led us on to this bay fifteen minutes (miles) distant from here southward and eastward. From the top of an iceberg, near the mouth of said river, we could see that this bay, which I have named after Rev. Dr. Newman, extended to the high land eastward and southward of that position about fifteen miles, making the extent of Newman's Bay, from its headland or cape, full thirty miles. "The south cape is a high, bold, and noble headland. I have named it Sumner Headland, after Hon. Charles Sumner, the orator and United States Senator; and the north cape Brevoort Cape, after J. Carson Brevoort, a strong friend to Arctic discoveries. "On arriving here we found the mouth of Newman's I Latitude of Highest Land Seen. "Bay open water, having numerous seals in it, bobbing up their heads, this open water making close both to Sumner Headland and Cape Brovoort, and the ice of Robeson's Strait on the move, thus debarring all possible chance of extending our journey on the ice up the strait. "The mountainous land (none other about here) will not admit of our journeying farther north; and as the time of our expected absence was understood to be for two weeks, we commence our return to-morrow morning. To-day we are storm-bound to this, our sixth encamp- ment. "From Cape Brevoort we can see land extending on the west aide of the strait to the north 22° west, and dis- tant about seventy miles, thus making land we discover as far as latitude 83° 5' north. "There is appearance of land farther north, and ex- tending more easterly than what I have just noted, but a peculiar dark nimbus cloud hangs over what seems may be land prevents my making a full determination. "August 30th, the Polaris made her greatest north- ing, latitude 82° 29' north; but after several attempts to get her farther north she became beset, when we were drifted down to about latitude 81° 30'. When an opening occurred we steamed out of the pack and made harbor September 3d, where the Polaris is. [Corner of manu- script here bu' led off.] Up to the time I and my party 165 1871. October. li 'm Homeward Bound. isri. "loft the ship all have boon well, and continuo with hioh October. o hopes of accomplishing our great mission. "Wo find this a much warmer country than wo ex- pected. From Oape Alexander the mountains on either side of the Kennedy Channel and Robeson's Strait wo found entirely bare of snow and ice, with the exception of a glacier that wo saw covering, about latitude 80° 30', east side the strait, and extending east-northeast direction as far as can be seen from the mot ntains by Polaris Bay. "We have found that the country abounds with life, and seals, game, goose, ducks, musk-cattle, rabbits, wolves, foxes, bears, partridges, lemmings, &c. Our sealers have shot two seals in the open water while at this encamp- ment. Our long Arctic night commenced October 13th, having seen only the upper limb of the sun above the gla- cier at meridian October 12th. "This dispatch to the Secretary of the Navy I finished this moment, 8.23 p. m., having written it in ink in our snow-hut, the thermometer outside minus 7°. Yesterday all day the thermometer minus 20° to 23°; that is, 20° minus to 23° minus Fahrenheit. "Copy of dispatch placed in pillar, Brevoort Cape, October 21, 1871." Leaving the sixth encampment early on the morning of the 21st, the party retraced their steps, and early in the afternoon arrived at the point on the southern shore of I Breakfast. the bay wlioro thoir fifth encampment had stood. It being very cloudy, and the little daylight rapidly passing away, it was determined to remain at that point over night. The old snow-house was repaired, and in a short time they were comfortably established in it. The next morning Hall has the following record: "Notes before leaving seventh encampment, which is the same as the fifth. Our morning repast finished at 6 a. m. ; each of us had a quart pot of smoking-hot chocolate, with condensed milk in it. This with sea-bread, two kinds, made of white and Graham flour, raw pemmican, and raw clear pork, makes a most excellent and nutritious breakfast. It is my purpose to strike direct for the head of this bay, and, from some prominent mountain there, try to see the character of the country north, to deter- mine whether sledging in that direction would be feasible; also to look for a route homeward and hunt musk-cattle. "Every morning now, the first thing that I wish to learn is, whether the stars, or rather Jupiter, can be seen; but generally the heavens are in gloom. Latitude by observation is what I desire, though the elements for de- termining the latitude of Cape Brevoort I have from post- meridian observations of Jupiter the other morning. We start up the bay, and soon, leaving the new ice, come upon century-old ice, that, commencing from one side of the bay, spreads over to the other. At 10 a. m. I place 167 1H7I. October. 168 Old Ice. 1871. October. "my tripod on the top of a century-old ridge of hummocks, and take compass-sights to all the prominent points about. At 11, having regained the new ice, stop to examine what appears to be an old floe along which we have been sledging for ten minutes. It is five feet above the new ice upon which we are, and which also extends under it. The upper surface has hillocks, and looks very old. It appears to be fixed. Hans says it is all the same as a glacier. A little after noon we leave the ice of the bay, and travel up a gulley upon land. At 2.30 p. m., stop to make the eighth encampment. At 5.10, the snow-house was ready for occupancy." The weather had been overcast and foggy; very dis- agreeable, as Hall says, for Arctic night-travelers. "We have now actually not more than nine hours daylight in which to travel, and do outside work, as loading and un- loading sledges, and making snow-houses. From 7 to 8 in the morning, and from 4 to 5 in the evening, it is quite dusky, nevertheless we manage to do many of our outside duties without much trouble. To-night, though overcast and cloudy, I read oflf the time from my watch by day- light at 4.37. To-morrow we shall go in for a musk-ox hunt." On the 23d, circum-meridian observations of Jupiter were made, which gave 81° 39' as the latitude of the eighth encampment. ' , Frozen Clothing. "Our snow-house is a fair representative of the others; is 9 feet in diameter, 5 J feet high from the floor to the dome, and 4 feet from the bed to the dome. The whole spiral, including keystone or key-snow, consists of forty-eight blocks of snow 6 inches thick, about 1 foot wide, and from 2 to 3 feet long. The day, like most all the others during this sledge-journey, has been so foggy as to make it quite impossible to take such sights as I have desired to take, and also to render useless any time that I might spend in trying to hunt musk-cattle. It is now my purpose to make for the Polaris, which we shall most likely reach to-morrow. The ninth encampment was made near the Inland Island, and also quite near, within two rifle-shots, of the second encampment. I have omitted to note that our sleeping-bags, our vest- ments, everything that we have to wear, are all saturated with the moisture, and frozen stiff*. We have not the necessary fuel by which to dry the same. We have, to a certain extent, adopted the plan of taking our smaller articles, such as mittens and stockings, to bed with us. By placing them inside our sleeping-bags, and next to our bodies, they become partially dry by morning. When we unpack our sleeping-gear, our sleeping-bags have to be coaxed a long time before we can unroll them; they are so stiffly frozen. But these kinds of difficulties we do not mind much. So long as we can forward the service we 169 1871. October. 170 Home Again, 1 871 . " are engaged in, so long will we lauffh at such obstacles as October. ° those mentioned." On the 24th, the snow having been hardened by an eastern gale, they were able to make good progress, and a little past noon Hall writes : "My deep anxieties are relieved, for I and Joe could not till this moment, sight the masts of the Polaris." m '^♦v*^^'-^ -i,^-^^^^-^:y^ »i>r-n*-vW^ -^--V^ iyrrr^r^ f.^,^^^ ,K^ ^ 7<, f .^ c-t^a^ kv^" [*te..w«r »..Kjfcav^ ,,.^^^ .c::^ w^4^9<^,i^ w=7 i^^^Zjlu^ I VII CHAPTER VII. Upon Captain Hall's arrival at the Polaris, he went isri. on hoard, anu was assisted hy Mr. Morton in getting oflf his fur clothing. He spoke very encouragingly of the prospects of the expedition, and added that he ex- pected in a couple of days to start upon another sledge- journey which would complete the fall work. He had not been in the cabin more than a half-hour when John Herron, the steward, brought him a cup of coffee. He drank it, and was immediately taken very sick. He vom- ited a good deal, retching violently. He went at once to bed. Dr. Bessels, who was at the observatory, was sum- moned, and after examination expressed grave fears that the sickness might be fatal. At 8 p. m., he announced that Captain Hall's left side was paralyzed, and that he had had an apoplectic attack. On the 25th, Captain Hall felt much better, although he had suffered very much during the night. He was able to eat some chicken and arrowroot. In the evening 174 HaWs last Sickness. 1871. he again became very sick, and was in ffreat pain from October. , . or his constant efforts to vomit. After having passed another very uncomfortable night, the morning of the 26th found him again much better. The fever which accompanied the attack had left him, and with the exception of being very weak, he seemed quite well. During the day. Dr. Bessels administered quinine to him and applied cold com- presses. On the 27th, Captain Hall was worse, and his con- dition was critical. Dr. Bessels said that if, in his present state, he had another attack, the result would be fatal. In the evening, the doctor proposed to bleed him, but Hall resolutely objected. On the 28th, he was very much worse, and symptoms of mental aberration began to ap- pear. He no longer recognized those about him. He refused to take medicine. On the 29th, his condition was generally the same, except that he showed marked evidences of insanity. Every effort was made to keep him quiet and free from excitement. Divine service was held in the forecastle. On the 30th, Hall remained in the same condition as on the two preceding days. He refused all medical aid and all nourishment, under the impression that an attempt might be made to poison him. On the 31st, having enjoyed a good night's rest, he felt much better. He talked rationally, except that he still entertained his former apprehension, to which he Death. 176 steadily adhered. The refusal of all medicine seemed to isri. be beneficial, and he improved rapidly, and on the Ist "''*" and 2d, appeared to be well, though weak. He took a little nourishment, but the same suspicions still haunted him when he seemed otherwise to be perfectly sane. He would take no food from any one but Hannah, whom he worried with many anxious inquiries regarding it. On the 3d, Captain Hall talked as if in the full posses- sion of his faculties. On the 4th, after much persuasion, he submitted to the doctor's treatment, who prescribed a mustard bath on this and the next day. He ate a large quantity of cooked seal-meat, contrary to the doctor's directions. On the 6th, he looked and felt well, and strong hopes were entertained of his recovery. Notwithstanding the injunction of Dr. Bessels, he got up and dressed, remain- ing up nearly all day. He was to all ropearances per- fectly sane, and employed his time in getting in order the records of his sledge-journey. He dictated for several hours to Mauch, and began to interest himself in the or- dinary duties of the ship. That night, however, he had another attack and became alarmingly ill. Early on the morning of the 7th, he sank into a comatose state, breath- ing heavily, during which his body was rubbed with mus- tard. In this condition he remained until 3.25 a. m. of the 8th, when he expired. |:i 176 isri. November. Affliction. Tho ship's company was awakened, and the sad in- telligence conveyed to them. There was but one expres- sion—of deep, heartfelt sorrow. Tho crow was exceed- ingly depressed. They had learned to love and appre- ciate their leader, and to repose full confidence in him., He had treated them with kindness and consideration, and in return they loved and trusted him. Tho Esquimaux, Joe and his wife, were almost heart- broken. They had looked upon Hall as a father, for nearly ten years. They never could hope to find any one who would take his place. They had been with him in many trials and dangers; they had often saved his life; they felt alone in the world. The officers who had messed with him, known him more intimately, and appreciated his singleness of pur- pose and force of character, knew that the life of the expedition was gone. His zeal and forethought had ani- mated and directed the smallest duties. . Hall inspired en- thusiasm. He furnished the incentives which influenced even the most zealous and which stimulated the efforts of the most indifferent. He was at the same time the leader and the hero of the expedition. Captain Hall had a good constitution, and in general was rarely sick. He had been, however, at times sud- denly and violently attacked. Those who knew him well Former Attacks, 177 and were much with him in former years were aware of isri. these attacks, which he recorded in his journals. His dis- ^"''*'"***'' position did not incline him to enter much into details con- cerning his own sufferings. He never complained except when illness delayed the progress of his work. While on his second expedition, on the 25th of March, 1865, he speaks of the suffering arising from the strained position ho is obliged to take in writing up his journal, and adds that it occasioned quite sharp and severe pain in his left breast. And again, on the 15th of May, he mentions the pains in the left breast, which he says had increased, and had caused the raising of blood. On the 1st of December, 1868, he is suddenly taken sick at night from an unknown cause. On the 5th of June, 1869, he writes : " I have felt unequal to the task of making notes ; in fact, I had thought, just before leaving the 41st encampment, that my very life was fast ebbing, so severe and sudden an attack did I have of pains in the stomach ; but by the prompt action of my men, at my orders, to unload the already prepared sled for our starting on our journey and get me my bottle of the essence of peppermint, I feel that I was saved. A large dose of the restorative, timely exhibited, soon dispelled the gloom that was universal around me! Thanks to Him who overrules all, that I still live. I have not yet fully recovered from my prostrate state, but 178 Former Attacks. Novflber. ^^ "^ ^ ^^"' ^^^ ^^^ '^^' ^'^^^ *"^^ ^ ^^''^^^ »"<^ soon for- get. As noted, we were all ready to start — resuming our journey — the women, in fact, had gone on ahead ; though far from well, yet I had no idea but I was quite able to go right on, when I suddenly felt an indescribably ill turn coming on. I told my men my fears, and gave in brief words what I wanted done, and, for some time after, all seems to me as a dream indistinctly remembered. It is distinct in memory that I found myself on a single hairy deer-skin within the roofless circle — the snow-wall of our before-deserted igloo — and surrounded by my attentive men and the natives, all deeply anxious to do whatever they could for me, each wearing an anxious, sympathizing look, as I lay there recovering from the shock just expe- rienced. I was soon on my legs again, but too prostrate to think of doing any more than ride. I never experi- enced such an attack before, and pray I may never again." These are interesting as records, generally, of sadden attacks, not unlike the one of which Hall died. He was also the victim of short but violent attacks of sickness during his laborious eflforts to organize his third expedi- tion. Colonel Lupton, with whom he was intimate while in Washington on this business, relates that when these efforts were relaxed by the favorable action of Congress [ .';j/— :i'iE:^S5B>»**^ — 179 1871. Halts Temperament. on his appropriation for the Polaris expedition, the reaction led to such a total prostration of his vital energies that he '**''*"'***''• was enjoined to go to the sea-shore. Hall was a large man, and possessed a phlegmatic temperament, which must have been severely taxed by his great excitement, especially while in Washington endeavoring to carry into execution the idea which had for many years held dominion over his desires and facul- ties. So thoroughly had he identified himself with his work, that his feelings in regard to it began to assume the form of a religious enthusiasm. A natm-al consequence of this excitement was an absolute prostration of the system when the goal was reached. On retiring to quiet and private life, he partially regained his strength, although he continued busily employed on his plans. He was soon recalled into active life by the necessity of superintending the outfit of the vessel. He was so constituted that he could not delegate to others his authority and responsi- biUties. Painfully conscious of the importance of the position he held, and of his obligations to the President, from whom he had received his appointment, he spared no exerUons in doing the work with which he had been intrusted. For several weeks just previous to sailing he was under medical treatment. We learn from a letter written hv Mr .Tn«oph n^^ 180 Last Words. arolciiir. P^^siding Judge of the Court of Common Pleas, Cincin- nati, in which city Captain Hall enjoyed a short visit to his family before he sailed, that while in company with the Judge, "going up Vine street, near Sixth, he complained of suffering from vertigo; said it troubled him frequently, and added that the only thing which gave him relief was eating one or two pounds of raw beef-steak; and bade me" (the Judge) "good-bye, saying that he must go to a butcher's shop and get some now to relieve him, so that he might recruit and be ready to return to New York." This was said on the ^ast day which Hall spent at his western home; and said to one with whom he had been for years on terms of intimacy, and to whom he had just freely communicated his plans and his strong confi- dence of success. Captain Hall's restless activity did not cease when he got to sea, and it may be said that it never ceased up to the last day of his good health. During his last illness, one or two persons were always near him; every night some one sat up with, him; Mr. Chester and Mr. Morton watched with him more frequently than any others. Hall placed great con- fidence in them, especially in Morton, ^i one time, how- ever, in his delirium, he suspected even Morton's fidelity, and refused to take any nutriment from the hands of any one except Hannah. ;• ;• HaWs State of Mind. i8l Although, when out of his mind, he spoke roughly t87i. to Dr. Bessels, in his sane moments he fully appreciated *"''*"**'• the doctor's care and kindness. Just before he died, while Dr. Bessels was smoothing his pillow. Captain Hall said, " Thank you, doctor ; you have been very kind to me." Speaking these words, he turned over and fell into his final sleep. The apprehension of personal injury manifested by Hall, during his last illness, may be regarded as the return of a mental condition excited at times during his previous long residence among the Esquimaux. Then these appre- hensions were more or less well founded. Duing his soli- tary seclusion there was undoubtedly occasional cause for personal mistrust, and whenever such a cause arose, his solitude and helplessness may very naturally have exag- gerated his fears. Hall's friends have never spoken of him as a suspicious person; but nothing is more natural than that he should have been upon his guard among those rude people. In his journals may be found several exemplifications of this state of mind, instances of supposed slights and injuries, and of his even entertaining fears for his per- sonal safety. These cases have been carefully noted and examined, with special reference to his state of mind in his last sickness. He was undoubtedly in a condition of mental aberration when he exhibited these fears: but 182 Medical Certificate. wotfll^r. **^®^'* ^®^^ ^"S^° "^^y ^® *^^<^®<^ *o a habit of mind acquired during his lonely life among the Esquimaux. It is not impossiblo that his incoherency in one instance may have proceeded from his recalling a scene of violence occurring in one of his former expeditions, in which he had been obliged to act with promptness and vigor. Its result had, however, always constituted a pain- ful recollection. An inquiry into the circumstances attending the death of Captain Hall was made after the return of the officers and crew of the Polaris. The result of this inquiry is given in the following certificate : << 'Washington, D. C, December 2Q, 1873. "SlE: We, the undersigned, were present, by request of the honorable Secretary of the Navy, at the examina- tion of Dr. Emil Bessels in regard to the cruise of the Polaris and the circumstances connected with the illness and death of Captain Hall. We listened to his testimony with great care and put to him such questions as we deemed necessary. "From the circumstances and symptoms detailed by him, and comparing them with the medical testimony of all the witnesses, wc are conclusively of the opinion that Captain Hall died from natural causes — viz., apoplexy — »:■ ;v•-•■•^ i o t#/ ^*i^ ii^ 1^, 24*>.- . 182 Medical Certificate. * «^«- their real origin may bo traced to a habit of mind acquirod Mnvrniher. during his lonely life among the Esquimaux. It is not impossible that his incolioroncy in one instance may havt? proceeded from liis recalling a m.^m of violence occurring in one of his former expeditions, in which he had been obliged to mi with promptnet^s and vigor. Its result bad, however, always constituted a pain- ful recollection. An inquiry into the circumstances attending the death of Captain Hall was made after the return ot the officers and crew of the Polaris. The result of this inquiry ii* p^m in the following certificate ■ k- i Deeeffiher 26, lg73. of the honorable beeretar) oi tite ^^avy, at the examina- tion of Dr. Erail Bessels in regard to the t^ruise of the Polaris and the circumstances connected with the illness and death <^f Oapl-iri Hall. We listened to his testimony witij ^leat caio and put to him such questions as wo deeoied riec^essaiy. •Fro. umsfances and symptomn detoik^d \if him, and compai. . x\ with tho Tn«'dl' »»1 ..mmf of all the witnestips, w: r ? . ^.ituon that Captain Hall died from naturai causes — viiu, apoplexy — •f I 1 ; 'v rts with various tools on this and the following day, they succeeded in excavating to the depth of twenty-six inches — the seat of permanent frost — which was consid- ered sufficient to protect the coffin from the bear, the only disturber to be feared. This work, in consequence of the obscurity of the day, was excuted by the light of lanterns. After the body was placed in the coffin, in the cabin, all hands were called in to look, for the last time, upon the face of him who had been their commander. They gazed upon it with the most affiictionate tenderness and regard. A sense of loneliness and loss filled their minds, and the 184 'vfll* ^"t"re. which, under IVovember. The Funeral the inspiration of Hall's enthusiasm, had been so promising, was now dark. Little was said as the sorrowful procession passed the open coffin and viewed the lifeless remains. When this was over the coffin was closed and carried to the after-deck. At 11 a. m. of J^ovember 10, 1871, the ship's bell was tolled, the coffin was placed on a sled, and the pro- cession which had been formed on the ice, moved toward the shore. Although near the middle of the day, it was quite dark. The sky was overcast and gloomy, and they were compelled to pick their way over the ice by the light of lanterns. Captain Tyson headed the procession. The officers and the Esquimaux walked beside the sled, or followed it slowly. In crossing the ice that lay between the ship and the shore, the hummocks were avoided and a smooth track was followed between the icebergs and the smaller masses. Striking the shore near the observatory and ascending the little hill, they moved down the plain to the grave. The ground was in general covered with snow, but many places had been kept bare by the wind. The coffin was placed in the grave, and Mr. Bryan read a short burial-service. The silence which followed was broken by the sound of the earth upon the coffin and by the sobs of Hannah. Nature seemed to be in harmony with the event. The temperature, although a few degrees above zero, was 4' 4i I The Grave. 185 exceedingly uncomfortable, owing to the prevalence of a »871. strong breeze from the nor^^east. A snow-drift accom- " " *'* panied this high wind ; surrounding objects were indis- tinct ; the face of the earth was in the last degree bleak and desolate. After the grave was filled, the little company slowly separated to return to the ship, meditating on the momentous questions touching their own present and future, which were forced upon them by this overwhelming calamity. u H • VIIT .<\.r^„ CHAPTER. VIII. The death of Captain Hall proved to be fatal to the main object of the expedition — to the fulfillment of that purpose for which he had qualified himself by many years of banishment from home — the attainment of the Pole, if possible, or the absolute proof of its inaccessibility. The world is already acquainted with the details of his residence among the Esquimaux during the years 1860, 1861, and 1862. The immediate object of that first residence was the search for the remains of Sir Joh^^. Frankhn's expedition. To this he was stimulated by the fitting out of the first Grinnell expedition ; and at this time, indeed, was laid the foundation of that zeal for Arctic exploration which guided and controlled the whole remain- der of his life. While carrying on the business of an engraver in Cincinnati, as early as 1850, he devoted all his leisure hours to the study of Arctic exploration, being indebted for the means of study to the liberality of the Mercantile Library Association of that city. At this 18S0. 190 1894. HaWs Early Arctic Itesearches. time he was under great obligations to his friend, Col. James Lupton, President of the Association, who, antici- pating his future usefulness and fame, liberally supplied him with works of Arctic literature. From this date he maintained the deepest interest in the successive expedi- tions for Franklin's relief, including those of England and our own country. After the return of Dr. Rae, in 1854, with some of the relics of Franklin's expedition, the British Govern- ment refusing to make further search, Hall seriously entertained the idea of co-operating with McClintock, who commanded Lady Franklin's vessel, the Fox. He took some steps toward obtaining for this purpose the British ship Resolute, abandoned by Kellett, rescued by Capt. James Budington, of Connecticut, and restored at the national expense to England. But before this idea could be carried out, McClintock returned with his in- teresting information. Hall was, however, well satisfied that the subject had been by no means exhausted, and he entered on fresh efforts to accomplish an object which had now taken entire possession of his mind. Without entering into details already published in the Introduction to his "Arctic Researches," it may be said here that he finally collected the means of makino- his first expedition, an account of which is given in that work. It is grateful to read the story of his own exertions, and His First Voyage. of the liberality of his friends, among whom he particu- larly mentions Mr. Henry Grinnell; and Mr. Miles Green- wood and Mr. U. M. Bishop, of Cincinnati. Through their help he was enabled to procure the outfit of a boat, sledges, provisions, instruments, &c., necessary to his undertaking ; all of which Messrs. Williams and Haven, of New London, Conn., offered to convey free of charge to Northumberland Inlet in their bark, George Henry, giving him also free passage. Hall left New London on the 20th of June, 1860, and, after touching at Holstein- borg, Greenland, reached Cyrus Field's Bay, on the oppo- site coast, August 18, where the ship went into winter quarters. Since he had been unable to carry oat his original design of having a schooner at command, his plan of operations was to start early in the spring in his boat with a native crew, reach the head of Northumberland Inlet, and, crossing a narrow portage, to follow the outlet of a lake to Fox's Channel, and passing thence through Fury and Hccla Straits, go as far as Victoria Harbor. Once there, a sledge-journey would enable him thor- oughly to explore all the region about King William's Land, and obtain satisfactory information respecting the fate of Franklin's men. This plan could not be carried out in consequence of his losing his boat by a storm in the month of September following. But during his two 191 I860. ii 192 1809. Results. years' residence in that region he made several boat and sledge journeys, acquired a familiarity with the mode and conditions of Arctic travel, and enlarged the boundaries of Arctic geography. In a letter written several years afterward to the Senate Committee on Foreign Eolations, when applying for aid from the Government, he says of this first expedi- tion : " From my own determinations, by astronomical observations and surveys, I succeeded in adding to our charts about fifteen hundred (1,500) miles of coast-line." When Hall reached St. John's, Newfoundland, on his return, September 23d. 1862, he sent a telegram to Mr. Henry Grinnell and Mr. Cyrus W. Field, saying: "I am bound for the States, to renew voyage, have not prosecuted my mission to the extent proposed on account of loss of craft; but thank God he has empowered me to do something; have solved the mysteries of near three centuries relative to Sir Martin Frobisher's expeditions under the auspices of Queen Ehzabeth; have learned the fate of the five men captured from Frobisher by the Esquimaux; identified the exact places of his landings, especially the Countess of Warwick's Sound, where Frobisher attempted to plant a colony of one hundred men; recovered therefrom, and have them on board, a large number of relics of said expedi- tions; have explored over one thousand miles of coast, including the so-called Frobisher's Straits, which I have Relics. 193 a a:" discovered to be a bay terminating in latitude 63° 48' north, longitude 70° west; have also discovered a great glacier and a mountain of fossils between Hudson's Strait and Frobisher's Bay." Of the relics referred to in this telegraphic dispatch, a part were transmitted to the British people through the Eoyal Geographical Society of London, and a portion were sent to Prof. Joseph Henry, to be deposited in the Smith- sonian Institution, Washington. A full list of those depos- ited with the Royal Geographical Society will be found in the "Three Voyages of Martin Frobisher," edited by Bear-Admiral Collinson, C. B., for the Hakluyt Society. A number of those belonging to the Smithsonian In- stitution, together with interesting remains of Parry's, Franklin's, Rae's, and McClintock's expeditions, form part of the Arctic collection exhibited by the United States Naval Observatory at the International Exhibition of 1876 in Philadelphia. During his residence among the Esquimaux he adopted their manners and customs, conforming entirely to their mode of living. Here he acquired his early training for Arctic explorations. It was on this expedition that he first met Joe and Hannah, thereafter his fast friends and constant companions. It is a proof of his unabated in- terest in the subject that on his return home he immedi- ately commenced his lecturing tours, by which he hoped 13 " 1869. 194 HaWs Second Expedition. 1864. to acquire the means for undertaking a second expedition. He evinced at the same time his patriotism by offering his services to President Lincoln to go in search of the Alabama. This is not designed for a biographical sketch; therefore, the period intervening between Hall's return from his first expedition and his setting out on his second, will be passed over with one or two observations. Throughout this interval his zeal in Arctic exploration, and his industry in collecting the means for a second expedition, were unflagging. They were finally rewarded, partly through his own exertions and partly through the exhaustless liberality of his friends. Having furnished himself with the necessary outfit, and being accompa- nied by the two Esquimaux whom he had brought back with him to the United States, he left New London on the 30th of June, 1864, in the bark, Monticello, Capt. E. A. Chapel, being indebted to Mr. Richard H. Chapell for a free passage. The first mate on board of this vessel was Mr. Chester, afterward mate of the Polaris. On the 20th of August, he was landed with his stores on Depot Island; and, later in the same month, accompanied by Joe and Hannah, and a white man hired from a ship, he reached a point on a western coast of Roe's Welcome, ill latitude G4° 36' N. Hp Here began his long-continued p I i Wintering in Repulse Bay. Esquimaux life, taking up his abode in their igloos, and conforming his habits in all respects to theirs; assimilating himself to them and learning their traditions. He heard from them that Franklin and his men had an encounter with one of the Indian tribes; that afterward all of the former starved, except Captain Crozier and three of his people, who passed one winter with the very natives with whom Hall was then living; that when the white men were first seen, "Crozier was very thin but his three com- panions were very fat;" that Crozier started with them south for the purpose of reaching one of the settlements of the Hudson's Bay Company; and that with one of the men he actually visited the Esquimaux of Chesterfield Inlet. In the following summer Hall resumed his journeys. In the early part of June, after experiencing much diffi- culty and danger, he arrived at the northeast side of Re- pulse Bay, in latitude 66° 13'; by September he had moved on to Fort Hope, Eae's former headquarters, in the neighborhood of which, latitude 66° 32', longitude 86° 56' W., the party went into igloos for the winter. Hall here used for a store-house an oven erected by Rae in 1845. On the 31st of March, 1866, he started on his sledge- journey with the Esquimaux, toward King William's Land. Traveling was difficult and slow over the chain of lakes 195 1860. 196 Hostile Tribes. 1866. lying between Gibson's Cove and the "Sea of Akkooloe," as t?*e EsiiuiKiaux call Committee Bay. At the end of one month, on reaching their highest point, in latitude 68° N., about six miles above Cape Wcynton, he met with some natives who had in their possession silver spoons given them by Crozier and stamped "F. 11. M. C." Here, however, the natives who were with him, being fright- ened by the accounts received, from the Esquimaux of the place, of hostile tribes beyond, refused to proceed further; he was forced to return to Eepulse Bay, "disappointed," as he says in his journal, "but not discouraged." In the mean time he discovered other very positive relics of Franklin's men. He spent the summer in surveying the coasts of Repulse Bay, and in gathering further knowl- edge of the lost explorers. Ho and his party subsisted by hunting and salmon-fishing. At one time they succeeded in killing a whale, which was afterward a source of some profit to him from the sale of its bone. Several whalers passed the winter in the bay, and held frequent inter- course with him. To prepare himself for a second effort to reach King William's Land, in March, 1867, he made a sledge-journey to Igloolik, where, by means of presents, he secured a number of dogs. He spent a month in surveying the region around Parry's winter-quarters; he also made a valuable survey of Ship's Harbor Islands. During his >f Monument near Cape Crozier. winter-residonce of 1867-68, near Beacon Hill, at the head of Gibson's Cove, Hall became confident that some of Franklin's men still survived on the shores of Fury and Hecla Straits, and determined to rescue them before going to King William's Land. On the 23d of March, 1868, in company with Joe, Hannah, and one white man, he ascended, by nearly his former route, as far as Ooglet Islands, passed up Hooper Inlet, and, going up the western branch of Crozier River, discovered a long, nar- row lake, which he named "Grinnell Lake," and its outlet " Brevoort River." Following this outlet to a large bay he turned to the southward and found, near Cape Crozier, the monument of which the natives had told him as hav- ing been built by white men; but the deep snow pre- vented his search for records. Hall carefully surveyed the coast up to the entrance of Fury and Hecla Straits — a part of the American Continent which had never been explored; he then visited Giflford River, finding there also relics of white men, and returned to his quarters June 26th. At this time occurred the mutiny among the five white men whom he had hired from the whaling-ships the preceding autumn. It began with threats of desertion and ended with Captain Hall's shooting the leader. The circumstances attending this event belong to his bioirra- phy ; they are minutely detailed in his journal. Notwith- 197 1808. 198 iseo. The Fifth New Year's Day. standing the refusal of the white men to renew their term of service with him Hall remained to cnrry out his pur- pose of reaching King William's Land. Spending the rest of the season in laying in supplies for the following year, and in making a survey around Lyons Inlet, which corrected Parry's chart and placed a new inlet on the maps. Hall passed his fifth severe season with the Esqui- maux at Repulse Bay. There were as many as cne hun- dred and twenty-two Esquimaux living there; yet food was plentiful, and he seems to have heen quite happy in his celebration, among them, of the New Year's day of 1869. After many preparations, Hall at length, on the 23d of March, again started for King William's Land. His company consisted of five Esquimaux men, three women, and two children. Following the route he had traversed twice before, he reached his cache near Cape Weyhton April 2d, and Ibund it undisturbed; some of the provisions had been damaged by exposure. Entering the land at Colvile Bay, he traveled in a northwesterly direction, and on the 9th reached the ice of Pelly Bay. The natives whom he here met showed him many articles which had belonged to Franklin's expedi- tion. Continuing his journey, he made an almost direct Fran/din's Ship. wr.dterly course over the land, and, crossinj^ Simpson and drinnell Lakes, he reached the ice of Inglis Bay on tlio 8th of April, having fortunately killed some musk-cattle and deer on the way. Crossing Sheppard's Bay, he approached King Will- iam's Land, and, when near that island, found many other relics, and heard much more respecting Crozier and his men, from the Innuits. They said that one of Franklin's ships, after having been abandoned, drifted down to the shores of O'Reilly's Island, and was there visited by sev- eral of the natives. The Innuits were convinced that some white men had passed a winter in the ship there. Afterward, the natives had obtained a great deal of wood from the wreck, and, breaking into the cabin, found there a very large man — dead. The ship was subsequently so broken by the ice that she sank. From his conversation with the Innuits, Hall became satisfied that he had discovered the places where the re- mains of at least seventy-nine of Franldin's men lay. On the 8th of May, he started with a small party to visit Todd's Island and the shores of King William's Land. Here, also, with many other relics, he found human bones in several places. One entire skeleton he brought home. It was after- ward placed by Mr. Brevoort, of Brooklyn, in the hands 199 1860. 200 1800. Grozier and His Men. of an English officer. Hall erected monuments over the places where the dead men lay, and fired salutes in honor of their memories. At Sheppard's Bay he met other natives, who had seen Crozier and his party of about forty-five men in July, 1848, a few miles above Cape Herschel. They had given Crozier some meat. Crozier's men were putting up a tent in which to pass the night, and the natives encamped near them; but while Crozier's men were sleeping the natives got up and went away. The party seemed very hungry, j^othing more was seen of them until the following spring, whrn the natives found their dead bodies. Captain Crozier's body was never found, and they behoved that he had escaped and reached his country. Captain Hall blamed the Innuits for not remain- ing and hunting for the Crozier party. The Esquimaux who weio with Hall now insisted that the land would soon be bare of snOw, and that unless they began their return they would not be able to get back to Repulse Bay until fall. Captain Hall, though very anxious to remain longer about King William's Land, was compelled to yield to their wishes. On his return, he followed substantially the same route as that taken on his outward journey. Stopping frequently to hunt, they killed eighteen reindeer, seventy-nine musk-cattle, and two 3oals. In speaking of this, Hall remarks that Crozier lialVs Return. and his party need not have starved if they had known the resources of the country, or had with them a few Es- quimai^x to point out its abundance. The month of July, was spent in further sur- veying, in hunting and fishing, and in preparing to return to his country. Hall had determined to attempt a journey to York factory if no whaler appeared by the 10th of August, but on the 6th of that month he received a visit from Captain Fisher, of the Ansel Gibbs, who had just arrived in the bay. On the 26th of August, he placed on board, the whalebone which he had secured, and eighteen deer, which latter were fully appreciated by the ship's company. With Joe, Hannah, and a little girl whom these Esquimaux had adopted, they arrived at New Bedford on the 26th of September, being pre- sented with a free passage by the owner of the vessel, Mr. Jonathan Bourns, junior. Some time after his return. Captain Hall addressed to Judge Charles P. Daly, president of the American Geographical Society, a letter in which he gave a concise account of the geographical results of this his second ex- pedition. In justice to Hall, this compendious statement of the work of five years is here given. "Dear Sie: Continued occupation since my return has prevented me from giving you, as you requested, an account, in detail, of what I have observed in respect to 201 1800. ill! i!!! 202 Letter to Judge Daly. "the geography of the Arctic regions. With my first voyage you are sufficiently familiar, and I have nothing to add to what is contained in the volume published by the Harpers. During the last five years that I have spent in the Arctic, I availed m} self of every opportunity afibrded me for accurate observation, and I give you the results. You will remember that Wager Bay is an old discovery of Middleton's, in 1742, when he was in search of a north- west passage. The general outline or rough sketch then made remains unimproved to the present day. I explored this inle'u lor sixty miles, up and down, to its junction with Roe's Welcome, and made a series of observations from astronomically-determined positions. "Eepulse Bay, though visited by Middleton, and after- ward by Parry and by Rae, still remains but imperfectly defined. I have, from my own observations, the data for a more accurate delineation of the outline of this bay. I discovered and surveyed a new inlet in latitude 67° north, longitude 84° 30', a few miles north of Norman's Creek, of which it may be said to be a counterpart, running from Lyon's Inlet to the eastward. I may be excused for ex- pressing to you the gratification I felt in making this dis- covery, remembering that Parry, in 1821, when exploring and surveying the opening to which he gave the name of Lyon's Inlet, determined, as he says in his narrative, to leave no opening or arm un visited; and yet with all his Letter to Judge Daly. "care and the aid of his officers and four hoats' crews, ho overlooked tie new inlet I found, from the fact that a high island shut out from his view the entrance to it. I dis- covered a l»ay on the west side of Fox Channel, latitude 69°, iongitude 81° 30', which makes west-southwest for fifteen miles. This Parry also missed, which is not re- marl able when we consider that his was a marine survey along the west side of Fox Channel to Tg-loo-lik, an isknd near the eastern end of Fury and Hecla Strait. I discov- ered an important lake, twenty-five miles in length, in latitude 68° 45' north, longitude 82° west. I call it Im- portant, as it abounds in salmon of large size, some being six feet in length. It contains, also, many other species of fish, some of which I think have been hitherto un- known. Also another lake, latitude 69° 35', runniuL^ parallel with Fury and Hecla Strait, about fifty miles in length. It has two outlets. I followed up Crozier's River, the mouth of which Parry discovered, and found its source to be ^he lake described. At the west end of the lake is another outlet forming a river, which 1 followed down to the Gulf of Boothia, where the river dipcbaigcs itself into a fine baj— another discovery It ft?i to my lot, also, to ascertain the northwestern part of Melville peninsula, at and below the western Aitlets of Fury and Eecla Strait, which may be said to complete the discovery of the American continent. 203 ^ 204 Letter to Judge Daly. " I discovered a long island lying to the northwest, and westward of the western outlet of Fury and Hecla Strait, and also the coast of the mainland on the north side of the ahove-mentioned outlet of the strait, and I found that the "Jesse Isle," laid down and so named on Dr. E,ae's chart, at the north of Parry Bay, latitude 69° 30', longi- tude 85° 10', is not there. "Although Parry had his vessels, the Fury and the Hecla, near to Amherst Island, in 1822, and sent out from there exploring and surveying parties, directing them to search, if possible, for the western outlet of Fury and Hecla Strait, they were unable to find it. In the follow- ing spring, 1823, while his vessels were in harbor at Ig-loo-lik Island, latitude 69° 21', longitude 82° west, Lyon, Parry's associate, undertook to reach the western outlet of the strait by means of sledges and dogs; but after journeying for nineteen days he failed to accomplish it. In 1847, Dr. Eae left his headquarters at Fort Hope, at the head of Repulse Bay, with the intention of reach- ing the outlet of Fury and Hecla Strait, but before he could get there his provisions gave out, and he was com- pelled to turn back. I had some reason, therefore, to feel gratified when I found myself traversing thv. very region that such intrepid explorers as Parry, Lyon, and Rae had attempted to reach in vain. " The next important contribution to geography was Letter to Judge Daly. "my discovering an important island north of Ormond's Island, at the east end of Fury and Hecia Strait. What Parry has put down upon his chart as the mainland, north of Ormond's Island, is an island, but somewhat less in size than Ormond's Island. "I think that if Parry had known of the existence of the channel which is on the north side of the new island that I refer to, he would have succeeded in getting his vessels much farther to the westward in the strait than he did. By passing through this new channel and by keep- ing close to the land on the north side of the strait. Fury and Hecla Strait, like the passage leading into Wager Bay, and like Hudson Strait in the navigable season, may be penetrated by keeping on the noYth side, while the oppo- site or south side is encumbered by heavy ice. "From intelligent Esquimaux, whom I met at Ig-loo- lik, I obtained information about, and sketches of, the west coast of Fox's Farthest, latitude 66° 50' north, up to what Parry calls "Murray Maxwell's Inlet," which is near the east end of Fury and Hecla Strait. Murray Maxwell's Inlet, as Parry calls it, is in reality a sound or strait that sweeps around to the eastward, forming a large island. If you take your pencil and continue the so-called Murray Maxwell's Inlet to the eastward and to the blank in Parry's chart, you will have the delineation of the island that is there. To the eastward of the Calthorpe Isles and Cape 205 206 Letter to Judge Daly. "Konig, you will find the broken lines of the land that Parry discovered. He could not determine whether it con- sisted of islands or formed a part of the mainland. From Esquimaux, who had been there, I learned that it consisted of two islands. The nearest approach I made to them was on my visit to Fern Island, which you will find on Parry's chart attached to the narrative of his second voyage. "At Ig-loo-lik I met Esquimaux who were natives of Cumberland Sound, sometimes called Cumberland Inlet, which, you know, is on the west side of Davis Strait, above Frobisher Bay. These natives made their way to Ig-loo-lik by first making a portage from Cumberland Sound to a large lake, called upon the charts Kennedy's Lake, and which, by the way, I may remark, no white man has ever yet seen, and then launching their oo-mi-ens (women s boats) upon the lake, which they traversed west- ward, entering a large river, and drifting down it with a swift current to Fox's Farthest, where the river enters the sea. From there they turned north, and coasted along up to the Cathorpe Isles, and from there crossed over to Ig- loo-lik. "From Esquimaux at Ig-loo-lik I also obtained im- portant information of a new bay that will not only be of interest to geographers, but must, I think, eventually be of great value to our commerce. The entrance to this I Letter to Judge Daly. "bay has onl • been seen, and is indicated upon the Arctic charts as Admiralty Inlet. Nothing has been known, however, by civilized man of the extent of this bay or of its character. The entrance is from Barrcw's Strait, lati- tude 73' 43' north, longitude 83° west, and the bay ex- tends very nearly in a southern direction to about 71° north latitude. The west side has a coast-line on a grad- ual curve from Barrow's Strait to near its limit, the con- cave on the east, while the west (east 1) side has many bays or fiords, with some good harbors in them. The bay is free from ice every summer, and none of the ice from Barrow's Strait ever finds its way into it. This bay abounds in whales (Balcena Mysticetus, or smooth back, the most important to civilized man), in narwhals (the sea unicorn), and in seals. So abundant are the whales, that the natives sometimes kill in their rude way as many as five large ones in a few days. The information I de- rived from the Esquimaux has convinced me that this new bay will prove as valuable to whalers as Cumberland Sound. From 1840 to the present time the product from whale-bone and oil from Cumberland Sound, by English and American whalers, has amounted to 115,000,000; and as the area of the whale-fishery is gradually diminish- ing, the fact of the existence of this bay I regard as of great value, as opening up a new ground for the prosecu- tion of this important industry. 207 ^^^^PMi'' 208 Letter to Judge Daly. ''I also obtained valuable information from the Esqui- maux at Ig-loo-lik respecting Pond's Bay, the western prolongation of which, upon our present Arctic charts, is miscalled Eclipse Sound. If the testimony of the Esqui- maux can be relied upon, and I place the fullest confidence in it, Pond's Bay terminates in longitude 81° west (ap- proximately) ; and the representation upon the Arctic charts of a strait from Pond's Bay to Prince Regent's In- let, on the northern part of the Gulf of Boothia, is erro- neous. "It has been the supposition of geographers that Davis Strait and BaiRn's Bay are connected with Fox's Channel by straits. This is not the fact. All the intelligent Esquimaux that I have met in my two voyages assert that the land bounded on the north by Barrow's Strait, upon the east by Baffin's Bay and Davis Strait, on the south by Hudson's Strait, and on the west by Fox's Chan- nel and Prince Regent's Inlet, is one land or one great island. They know of a much smaller island, that has Pond's Bay on its south side, Navy Board Inlet (or, more properly, strait) on its west, Lancaster Sound on its north, and Baffin's Sea on its east side. *' My other contributions to geography are that Dr. Rae's Colvile Bay, in latitude 68° north, longitude 88° 20', is not a bay, but very low land ; that his Grinnell Lake and Simpson Lake, which he delineates as one continuous Letter to Judge Daly. lake, are, in fact, three distinct lakes ; and, lastly, that his Shephard's Bay extends northerly about twelve miles beyond the limit he has assigned to it. "This, my dear sir, embraces all I have to communi- cate. You will remember that I went out with very lim- ited resources, and was more circumscribed for the want of means than almost any Arctic explorer. Should I again go out, as I trust to do, I hope to extend the area of geographical discovery and accomplish some- thing that may redound to the credit of our common country. "Very respectfully, yours, "0. F. Hall. '•Hon. Charles P. Daly, ''President American Geographical Society" The purpose of giving the preceding summary of Hall's Arctic explorations, previous to his taking com- mand of the Polaris Expedition, has been to show how eminently he was qualified for that service, not only by his zeal and devotion to it, but by a long course of discipline, and by the hardihood, and knowledge, acquired by living nearly eight years in the region of the Esqui- maux, as no white man had ever done before. One of his objects in going there was to acquire knowledge and experience to be employed in a future exploration of the highest attainable latitudes of the 14 209 210 The Scientific Corps, Arctic Ocoun. IliH settled conviction was that there was a way open to the Pole itself. When ho took command of the Polaris he held in his hands the very means, lon<^ coveted, of gratilying his paramount wish to carry out this idea. The vessel was thoroughly built and amply supplied with stores and provisions. The oflicers and crew were particularly well trained for Arctic service. Several of the ollicers were men of uncommon ability and of largo experience. To connnence wi^h the scientific corps : Dr. Emil Bessels, the head of this corps, as is well known, was a graduate of the University of Heidelberg, a man devoted to science, and eminently sagacious and industrious ; in addition to this he possessed the advantage of experience. Under the auspices of the celebrated geographer. Dr. Petermann, of Gotha, he had gone out in the sealing- vessel, the Albert,' in 1869, and made extensive explorations in the seas between Nova Zembla and East Greenland, with important observations on the Gulf Stream. lie had served for six months as volunteer surgeon in the Prussian army in the Franco-German war. He had volunteered to accompany the expedition as soon as he heard that there was difficulty in obtaining the services of a competent person. Mr. II. W. D. Bryan, a graduate of Lafayette Col- The Officers. lego, Pennsylvania, was recommended by his Alma Mater for the position of Astronomer. Previously to sailing ho prepared himself for his duties by an additional course of study and practice at Washington. He seems to have enjoyed in an eminent degree the confidence and esteem of all his associates. Mr. Frederick Meyer, a native of Prussia, graduated at a military academy, and received a commission as lieuten- ant in the Prussian army. Before he left Germany he held an appointment in Maximilian's army, but on reach- ing the United States decided not to go to Mexico. Having entered the United States Army, he was detailed as a signal observer at Saint Louis. He distinguished himself in his corps by the accuracy of his observations, and the systematic and thorough performance of his duties, and was detailed by General Albert J. Myer, Chief Signal-Oflicer United States Array, to serve on board the Polaris. Of the officers of the ship under Captain Hall, Capt S. 0. Budington had made thirteen voyages to Baffin's Bay, and had commanded several whale-ships, in one of which, in 1860, he carried Captain Hall to Frobisher's Bay. Capt. G. E. Tyson, the assistant navigator, had had command of five ships in the whaling service. In the years 1865 and 1807 he had met Captain Hall at 211 EbflBHI ^>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^12.8 ■so ~^" !f m us us lAO 2,5 2.2 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 -. 6" ► V] <^ /a % "-m e. > /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 \ .V #,. c\ \ ^9) V ^Ir o^ rv ^ is, r n^oo^i. 228 1871. November. Consultation. shall, in such case, continue as the chief of the scientific department, directing all sledge-journeys and scientific operations. In the possible contingency of their non- concurrence as to the course to be pursued, then Mr. Budington shall assume the sole charge and command, and return with the expedition to the United States with all possible dispatch.' "It is our honest intention to honor our dear flag, and to hoist her on the most northern part of the earth, to complete the enterprise upon which the eyes of the whole civilized world are raised, and to do all in our power to reach our proposed goal. "S. 0. Budington. "Emil Bessels." About this time, the ship's company were startled by a loud cry of distress, at midnight, from the room of the carpenter. He was found covered by his blankets and crouching in horror in a corner of his bunk, believing that he had heard a voice calling to him from the adjacent store-room, which was closed and locked. He supposed that some one had a design upon his life. To pacify him the store-room was carefully searched; but notwithstand- ing the proof thus afforded of his having been deceived, he continued in the belief that he really had been threatened. Tidal Observations. 229 This was the first indication of what afterward 1871. , , . November. proved to be an occasional mental aberration. It was thought to be owing to the exposed situation of his room, which had already affected his health in other respects. Captain Budington, soon after, gave him the berth in the cabin which had been occupied by Captain Hall. Hayes, on the 11th, fell down from the gangway- ladder, wrenching one of his knees very badly. He suffered with it for a week, but regained its use, and was soon able to resume his duties. In consequence of some apparent irregularities in the tidal observations on the 12th, Eobert Kruger and Her- mann Siemens, two very trustworthy men, were placed in exclusive charge of them, after which the observa- tions did not exhibit the former discrepancies; frequent soundings were taken to make sure of the zero of the scale. The wind varied, of course, in direction and intensity, but generally fresh breezes or heavy gales prevailed from the N. E. with large snow-drifts and declining tem- perature. The snow drifted into strange shapes and piles about the vessel. On the 12th, after the very severe drift of the night previous, a gangway was cut from the ship to the tidal apparatus, with banks on either side five feet high. The gales from the N. E. were very severe, rising to a velocity 230 Lime-Juice. i^orem^r. «^ ^^ "^''«« P^^ Iiour. When strong gales from the north prevailed, the ice in the straits was driven to the south- ward, leaving many open spaces. On the 13th, a low water-cloud hanging over these open spaces hid the op- posite shore from view. During calms or very light winds, an incoming tide would bring the ice up again, and very httle water could be seen; a similar result was pro- duced by a southerly wind. On the 14th, lime-juice was given out for the first time. The men rehshed it, and it was made a regular article of daily use. On the 15th, Mr. William Morton, the second mate complained of a soreness in the heel. During his service with Kane on the second Grinnell expedition, 1853-55 he had one of his heels badly frozen, losing some of the bone ; the wound had never fully healed. When in tem- perate regions he was not troubled by it. The sore was an open one, and being in the center of the heel, he lost, for a time, the use of his foot. On the same day at about 5 p. m , an aurora borealis was seen. It was a faint arch near the southern horizon extending in an east and west direction. After the cooking-stove was moved into one of ihe state-rooms, the caboose was used as an ice-house, and the crew were employed in procuring ice from the berg. The provisions specially brought for the dogs having Feeding the Dogs. 281 failed, they were now fed on pemmican, a can weighing 18T1. November. forty-five pounds heing given to them every three days. When they were to be fed the whole troop, forty in num- ber, were let in through the door in the awning over the gangway upon the deck. The Esquimaux chopped up the pemmican and divided it so as to give each dog his portion. This was done in the port gangway. Two or three men were on hand to assist and control the dogs. When the food was ready, one dog at a time was allowed to go into the passage and remain there until he had eaten his portion ; when he had finished he was put out on the ice again. It was always an exciting time. The utmost vigilance was required to keep the dogs in order and prevent them after being fed from rejoining the others and getting a second share. At times their attack upon the door of the gangway was so violent that it was almost impossible to keep them back. Two men generally guarded the door, armed with clubs, which they were compelled to use lustily upon the wild and savage brutes. It was exciting sport for the men, and although hard and dangerous work they generally enjoyed it. On the 16th, an elaborate proclamation was prepared, setting apart, according to American custom, the last Thursday of the month as a day of thanksgiving. It was posted in prominent places about the vessel, and ex- cited much amusement by calling forth innumerable jokes. 232 ■ 871. JVoTcmbcr. Daily Morning Prayers. The seal, which was much admired, was designed and made by Mr. Schumann. _ The 16th, being a clear day, a bright arch of yellow- ish light was seen over the southern horizon for about two or three hours before and after meridian. When, how- ever, it was cloudy, no tinge of daylight was discernible. On the 17th and 18th, a fresh breeze from 8 S W moderated the severity of the temperature, raising the thermometer above zero. On the 1 8th, the crew took ad- vantage of the warm weather to enjoy themselves upon the .CO. A large team of dogs was harnessed to one of the sleds, the Newfoundland dogs being principally used, m order to train them for spring work. Divine service had been held on the 12th and 19th At the conclusion of the service on the latter day. Captain Budmgton announced that the daily morning prayers would in the future be discontinued, but that the regular Sunday services would remain as heretofore. He assigned as a reason for this order that during the winter Mr Bryan would be engaged in his duties at the observatory and would not be able to be present. The gale from the northeast, which began on the evenmg of the 18th, increased in violence durin. the I9th, until it had acquired the velocity of 47 miks per hour. It continued with that force all through the night of the 19th, and on the 20th it had not abated. A Driving Storm. 233 At 4 a. m. of the 20th, Hermann Siemens, a very is^"!. strong man, going out upon the ice to make his usual tidal *''*'"**'"* observations, was literally taken up by the storm and thrown upon the ice, which was covered with water. When he recovered from the shock, he found that he was on his back with hands and feet in the air; fortunately he still re- tained his lantern, which had not been extinguished. Get- ting upon his feet, it was only with the greatest difficulty that ho was able to force his way against the wind and reach the fire-hole, and when there, the snow-drift was so severe that it was difficult to open his eyes long enough to read the scale of the tidal apparatus. The wind blew with such force against the broadside of the vessel that she was thrown over on one side, and the snow wall built around her was shoved out and broken. The open water could be seen within half a mile. The galloy-stove could not be made to work. The wind drove the smoke down the stack and filled the state- room and alley-way, so that no one could remain in the stifling atmosphere. The small stoves in the lower cabin and the forecastle were used, and each mess prepared its own breakfast. Dr. Bessels had been on watch at the observatory since midnight, and as he did not return when his watch ceased, it was feared that something might have happened to him, occasioned by the storm. At 9 a. m., Mr. Mever A Severe Struggle. i*otcii;r. ^^^t^rminod to attempt to go to tho observatory to bring the doctor on board. Deciding to suspend observations during the continuance of the storm, he bundled up well and started, and after a severe struggle with the wind reached tho shore. The ascent of the little hill upon which the observatory stood proved no easy task; ho was repeatedly driven back. It was absolutely impossible for him to stand against the wind, and even when creeping up tho hill on his hands and knees, he was driven back nearly twenty times, but by dint of the greatest exertion he at last reached the summit, and found the doctor waiting until the storm moderated. He had been without fire since 1 a. m. It was his intention to continue the observations until the storm permitted Mr. Meyer to come and relieve him. While Mr. Meyer was there, the wind blew more violently than ever. He made several determinations of the velocity, which, after it exceeded fifty-two miles per hour, he was unable to measure. The current-meter was broken so that it could not bo used. The anemometer's cups were whirling around at an amazing speed, but it was not possible to stand before the wind long enough to read the indications of the mstrument. The temperature was more than 20° below zero; and the strong wind greatly increased the sensation of cold. In addition to this the snow was drifting. The Anxiety Relieved. air was filled with cold, hard snow-flakes and the small icy crystals which make up the snow-drifts. Those had been torn from the surface of the high land to the north, and were being borne along at a speed of nearly a mile a minute. To stand with unprotected face against these sharp and angular atoms driven with suoh force, was no easy task. Mr. Meyer's progress was closely watched from the vessel, and great relief was felt when, at last, he was seen to enter the observatory. After, however, one-half hour elapsed without his re-appearing with the doctor, Captain Budington began to fear lest the doctor was in trouble. He accordingly sent the two Esquimaux to see that all was right, and, if so, to signal at once to relieve his anxiety. They had less difficulty than Mr. Meyer in accomplishing the distance, because they knew better how to battle with the strong wind. On arriving at the ob- servatory they sent back the welcome signal, "All's well." Soon the four men were seen coming over in pairs. As they reached the brow of the little hill the wind threw them down the declivity on which not even the Esquimaux were able to walk. They were hurried alon^r by the wind over the level ice, and reached the vessel about 10.30 a. m., where they were warmly welcomed. They did not escape without some injury; all being frost-bitten with the exception of Hans. Dr. Bessels' 236 1871. Novemlier. 236 An Anxious Day. n^vllLr.^^^ "^^ "'PP^^- ^^- ^®yo^ appeared with fiozon eyelids and bands, while Joe's right cheek was whitened by the frost. Mr. Meyer was not as well protected as the others, and liis frost-bites were much more severe; he felt great pain from them all day. Such was the severity of the storm that even the poor dogs suffered greatly. Their howls of distress so affected the men that the door was opened and they were all allowed if, come on ''ack, where they were protected from the wind. It was a day of anxiety. The creaking of the masts and the howling of the wind through the rigging proved that the storm still continued to rage. In the lower cabin the rocking of the vessel was felt, and so also the grinding in her icy cradle. The heavy canvas awnings covering the vessel made, when shaken by the wind, a sound like thunder. The gale lasted until 3 in the afternoon, when it began to moderate ; at 9 p. m., it recommenced in all its force, although the barometer had risen ; at midnight the wind blow, if possible, harder than before, and the barometer fell again. At 1 a. m. of the 21st, the vessol begar +o feel the motion of the open water nut im distant. The dark- ness was increased by the heavy drift of snow, so that nothing could be seen outside of the awnings. During the lulls of the storm the cracking of the ice around the vessel was distinguished. At 2.30 a. m., a severe shock 236 i*o\«> 871. inl»«>r. A'H Amdous Day. ear was nipped. Mr. Meyer appcarod witli fioznn eyelids and iiauds. whiic Joe'.s rijrbt cheek wjk^ whitened by the l'ro.st. Mr Aloyor was not as wel' itit.lected as liio others, {iiid liis frost-bites were ipiieli mor'^ .severe; he felt irreat pnir- ^rovr. t^PTn al! day. Such was the sevof^f , ,., .i.,;,.i i.ial ovtii the poor dogs suffered greatly. Their howls of distress so affected the men that the door was opened and tliey were all allowed to conic on deck, where they were protected from the wind. it was a day of anxiety. The ('realdng of ilie raacts and the howling >f the wind through the riginng prove; that the storm '^Lill continued to rage. Tii the lower cabin , <\A m also (he ,ui'indin<£ ■'• ' '..(dit?. r*'" hcavr cnnrnc .iwtn- : ; • t)v- :..'■-.■ , '' tiiunder. i' , ,. , iiu uJuumHtti, when ■' ''Cgan to moderate; at 1) ].. la., :: ^commenced in all its force, although the barometer had ri-'on : n! inidniLdit the wind blew, -f pobsible, harder th^n befbrf, ;-•/• ihe h:.'i- , !' fell mrnin. ^"^•^ • •' " *' the 21st, the vessel begon to lt>o1 the inotioi ■ ,>vn .v;iter not iar distar' The 1 ,rk- nesswa^ Jnn-o-ised by rlu- heavy drift <>. - , il^at iiothing coiiM ,m: outside of !]•♦ ^ hurin*'- the lulisoi t;. .ickin^ ;,k| the vessel was distuuruishe. 2.no a. ^e\ere •'bock -"^itmim^^ii,^ i • ili i Adrift. 237 ( occurred, which startled everybody. It was soon dis- 18^1. covered that the ship was afloat, and free from the ^*''*""*"'' ice. Her motion was so great as to render it difficult to read the barometer. The heavy snow wall which had been built close around the ship broke through the ice, leaving her surrounded by water. At 7 a. m., the two natives were sent to the observatory to obtain the cuiTent meter, and were told to see whether Providence Berg was still in its place; they soon returned with a favorable report; this was a great relief. The vessel was repeatedly driven against the ice with severe shocks. Finally, at 8 a. m., the ice broke up and was carried away. Absolutely nothing could be seen at a distance of five paces. The ship being free, the chain, which had been left in the locker when the vessel ■>/as first frozen in, was bent, and the anchor got ready. Preparations were made to veer the other chain. The depth of water was found to be eight fathoms forward, and six aft. The hand at the driit-lead soon after reported eleven, twelve, and twelve and a half fathoms; the ship was adrift. The order was immediately given to let go the starboard anchor, which was the best bower. After a little while she brought up. Not taking the chain, it was evident that she was not riding by her anchor; and upon further examination it was found that she had brought up 238 , Dangerous Duty. Nolelber. ^^^^^^ Providence Berg, which saved the vessel from being carried into the pack. The captain proceeded at once to get out his ice-anchors and to secure the ship to the berg. He hesitated about ordering men to this duty, made per- ilous by the darkness of the night, the extreme violence o^ the wind, and the steep and slippery surface of the berg. William Nindemann first offered himself for the dan- gerous duty;, immediately all the others stepped forward, not one holding back. Protected as well as he could be by skin clothing, Nindemann climbed out the forward port-hole on the starboard side, and reaching a projecting piece of the berg, began to ascend its side. The Esqui- maux accompanied him. The side was so steep that he was compelled to cut steps in the ice with a hatchet. In order to light them at their work, a large pan con- taining tarred rope saturated with kerosene oil was set out on the ledge of the berg. When one anchor was firmly planted in the berg, and the vessel secured to it by a hawser, great relief was felt ; to complete the security, two other anchors were made ready, and three seamen volunteered to assist in planting them. All this occupied a long time, and it was not until 1 p. m., that the hands turned in. The captain decided to hold on to the berg, even if it should go adrift. Ninde- mann and one of the natives were frost-bitten during their exposure, but not seriously. ■"*^***aji«»i». 238 1871. IVovi'mber. It Dangerous Duty. against Providenco Berg, which saved tiu' \os8ol iioin boin the ])er<'-. He he8itat^teep and slippery surface of the berg. Wniliani Nindemaiin first offered himself for the dan- gerous duty;, immediately all the others stepped forward, not one holding back. Piotected as well as he could be by skin clothing, Nindemann climbed out the forward port-iiole on the starboard side, and reaching a projecting pieoe of the berg, began to ascend its side. The Esqui- *^^*''^^ ;■' hj»' The sHc was s<» ^;teep thai; he was eoPipt«lie.: at ritep,^ in me ice witii u hatchet. l-aining tarred rope saturated \\itii kerosene oil wh.> set out on the ledge of the berg. When one anchor was firmly planted in the berg, and the vessel secured to it by a hawser, great relief was felt ; to (^jmplete the security two other anchors were made ready, and three seamen voluntocT'M^ \ :^^^ ill phantiiig them. Ail Ui;> ueeupi(;d a loiij/ time, and it w^aa not until 1 p. m., that the iiandn turned in. The ca})trtin decided to hold on to the berg, even if it should go adrift. Ninde- mann and one of the natives were fro9t bitten during their exposure, but not seriously. was Effects of the Storm. Outside the vessel the commotion still continued. The sound of the water dashing against the ship's side was threatening; the shocks of the vessel against the berg were alarming. Notwithstanding the heavy strain, however, the hawsers held famously. About J p. m., the gale moderated and the watch below were allowed to turn in. Early the next morning, Ilaus, Kruger, and Ninde- mann went on shore to see the efifect of the storm upon the observatory. They walked to the shore upon the ice still fast to the berg. The tidal apparatus was found uninjured, and Hans' sled was safe. Two sleds, one of which hod been on board the relief-ship, under Captain Hartstene, were lost, besides several small articles left on the ice about the ship. Mr. Bryan, with Joe, went on shore to secure the magnetic instruments, which had been reported as exposed. The wind and drift had worn away the snow houses and filled them with snow. The declinometer was thrown from the stand, but all its parts were found except the carriage for the magnet. The observatory was standing, but completely buried; an entrance could be effected only by digging through a snow- bank six feet deep. Two dogs were missed, and at first it was supposed that they were lost, but upon its being suggested that they might have taken refuge in the dog- house on shore, the bank, covering the entrance was dug away and the dogs wore found. 239 1871. NoTember. RV3^w::'^^-^-f*yii!' -i 240 An Aurora. !)i Nolflb^r. ^^ ^^"^ ^ question whether to haul the ship back to her former place. Sho was, however, moved a short dis- tance, so as to lie against the berg. The gale abated, but the sea continued, and prevented the water from freezing. The evening was clear and bright. The moon shone quietly upon a scone which the day before had been wild and threatening. During the whole of the 23d, it was calm and clear, and a thin film of ice formed on the surface of the water. On the 24th, the scientific observations, interrupted by the storm, were resumed. A supply of ice was ob- tained from the berg by sliding blocks down its side into the port-hole. The temperature of the external air was — 23° Fahrenheit, while that within the canvas awnings was only — 8°. The new ice about the vessel had acquired the thickness of five inches. The open water was about two miles from the vessel, but the west side of the straits appeared to be full of heavy pack, accu- mulated during the irale. In the evening an aurora was visible. The forms assumed by it were peculiar, resembling in appearance and shape those called electric clouds. At times an arch was formed extending from horizon to horizon and passing nearly through the zenith. The arches were apparently narrow and the clouds thin and wanting in uniformity. The densest parts were the brightest. A Dock. 241 The arches were completed by the addition of parts which if^rt. at first appeared detached. They were formed in various ways. A band starting up from the horizon would receive a series of additions until it spanned the vault. Two bands rising from opposite points would extend, complet- ing the arch. They disappeared in as many various ways as they were formed ; but always as gradually as they came. The most attentive listener could not hear any sound. There was no marked disturbance of the magnetic needle either before, during, or after the phenomenon. The stars were seen through the clouds. The electroscope did not indicate any changes of electricity during their continuance. The vessel was exposed to the floes driven in from the straits, and the captain determined to bring her more under the protection of Providence Berg. The men were set to work on the 25th, sawing a dock in the young ice, already seven inches in thickness. The moon shone so brightly that it was convenient to work by her light alone. The vessel had drifted against the northeastern side of the berg, leaving her stern exposed to the attack of the floes. The dock being sawed, she was moved ahead eighty feet, and fifty feet from the berg, where it was hoped she would stay during the remainder of the winter, as she was lying under the protection of the berg and at a safe distance from it. '' q ship had run a narrow chance of 16 2^. 1871. IVovember. Seal- Traps. being carried out into the channel, where she would have been exposed to serious iiyury, and would certainly have been carried south, in which case little or nothing could have been oflfected toward the objects of the expedition. The position was regarded for the moment as secure ; but it will soon be seen how little this conclusion was justified. On the 26th, Divine service was hold in the lower cabin, which was more convenient because la'-o-er. The ice commotion in the straits still continued, the sounds of which were distinctly heard during the whole day. On the morning pf the 27th, the moon shone with such peculiar distirctness, and poured such a flood of light upon the scene, as to turn night into day. A well-defined halo of 22° radius encircled her disk, and during a part of the morning mock-moons also, were plainly visible. The one below, and those at each side of the moon, exhibited prismatic colors; they were very beautiful, but were soon eflfaced by the clouds. Hans had not been idle since the young ice had been thick enough to bear him. Ho had set many seal-traps, and, visited them twice a day, but did not, however, succeed in catching any. Mauch, in his journal of this date, says that he accompanied Hans on his rounds, and after finding that no game was caught, proposed to go out into the straits and examine closely the formation of the hummocks. He could hear distinctly a noise resembling 1 1 KPS t I A Southwest Oak. the mutterings of thunder, produced by the ice in motion, and ho proposed to go to the very spot where the noise originated. He reached the point after a brisk walk of half an hour, and there saw a large floe in motion, break- ing its way through the young ice. It was moving quite rapidly, piling up the ice in every direction, some- times in slabs as high as 20 feet, and making a great noise. The spring-tide occurring on the 26th, increased the commotions of the ice near the vessel ; water rose above its surface. This caused no uneasiness. A light brefi7fl from the south sprang up at 5 a m. of the 28th. The temperature rose rapidly to six degrees below zero and, at the same time, the barometer fell. These changes indicated a gale from the southwest; at 11 a. m., it set in, forcing the pack toward the vessel. The young ice was broken in many places, and hummocks formed. Near the stern of the vessel the ice was cracked, and hummocks rose there also. The gale continued to increase in violence, until at 1 p. m. it had acquired the velocity of 42 miles an hour. When it first began, it was apparent that snow was falling heavily ; but as the wind increased, it was impossible to tell whether it was fresh snow, or drift. The air was filled with flakes. At 7 p. m., the storm increased in violence, and the ice began to pile up against the outer part of the berg. 243 1871. Novcoiber. 244 A Perilous Situation. Nolfmber. "^^^ °^^^® ^^^ alarming, and the disturbance approached the vessel nearer than before. A visit to the top of the berg was made by Mauoh at 9 p. m. Huge pieces of ice, moving under the pressure of the wind, were driven toward Providence Berg, and forced in, on either side, upon the shore. The immense pressure was at length too great for the berg ; it was broken into two parts between which the ice was forced until they were separated by a distance of 8 feet. This event created some anxiety. The dogs were taken on board, and several preparations were made for the approaching crisis. At 11 p. m., the berg was found to be in motion and the vessel immediately felt the pressure. One part of the berg being small r, moved more rapidly than the other. In the interval before the berg reached the ship the strongest man held his breath, for it really seemed that she must be crushed in the same manner as the ice alongside. When it reached the vessel, she bore for a time its great pressure without yielding — but groaning under the immense strain. Several times it was thought that the ice had been forced through her side. Captain Budington remarked that the Polaris stood the pressure heroically, but that no vessel could possibly long hold together in her position. The wind at the time was blowing at the rate of 47 miles per hour, and the air was filled with drifting snow. The Dangerous Berg. 245 When the herg first came in contact with the ship, 18^1. a large tongue of ice below the water was forced under the bows of the vessel, raising her somewhat, and with the help of the wind giving her a cant. This probably- saved her. The result was that the ice between the ship and the shore broke, and the vessel began to move with the berg toward the shore, still laboring heavily. The opinion of Siemens was undoubtedly correct: "Had the ice, lee-side of the berg, been equally strong as that on the weather side, the ship would surely have been cut through or thrown on her beam-ends." Even as it was, the vessel was greatly strained, and if she had not been exceedingly well built, the pressure would have been fatal. The berg moved in toward the shore, shoving the little Polaris before it, until 2 a. m. of the 29th. At this time the tide turned, and as the berg would take the ground on the ebb the fear of a fatal accident was allayed. The people, worn out with labor and watching, were allowed to go below, leaving a sufficient number on deck. The engineer made a careful examination of the propeller, and found that it had suffered no injury. At 3 a. m., the berg had firmly grounded. The falling tide was not, however, sufficient to overcome the momentum of the pack. It still continued to press upon the berg, and, not being able to push it forward, began I 246 Fright of the Esquimaux. nil \ NolflLr. *® '^^^® ^* "P- -^ "®^ ^^°S^^ appeared: the berg threat- ened to turn over and crush the ship. But at 5 a. m., the gale began to moderate, and the pressure upon the berg was so much diminished that it recovered its equihbrium. Soon, however, other alarming circumstances appeared. As the tide fell, the stern of the vessel sank, leaving the bow 4 feet higher. At the same time she heeled over to port so much that it was almost impossible to walk the deck. The captain, who had been in his berth about two hours, was called. He saw that nothing was to be done, and after relieving their app ehensions sent the people again below. When the tide rose, the ship came to an even keel. Dming the gale, the temperature had risen considerably above zero, but when it ceased, the mercury again fell below. The natives were very much frightened at the ship's position, and asked permis ion to go on shore, which was granted. To the surprise of Mr. Meyfer who had remained on shore during the storm, they appeared at the door of the observatory. The women and children, with their loads of bedding and skins, crowded into the little room, persuaded that the vessel would be destroyed. Notwith- standing the odors which they brought with them, Mr. Meyer received them graciously, and gave them a share of his small establishment. In the afternoon the Esqui- maux built two snow houses, meaning to live on shore. Thanksgiving Day. The 30th was the day set apart by proclamation, as has been mentioned, as a day of thanksgiving. It was calm and clear. The ice was still, and the vessel lay quietly against the berg. Just having escaped from two great dangers the crew was prepared for a general thanksgiving. No work was done, and the whole day was given up to amusement. It had been the intention to have some sort of theatrical performance or minstrel entertainment, but the gale interfered with the preliminary practice, and it was given up. In the forenoon ?iuts of different kinds — hickory, hazel, walnut, pecan, and almonds — were distributed among the people. Dinner, however, was the great ^vent of the day. The steward and cook exerted their best skill and ingenu- ity in preparing the different courses. Considering the means at their command, they did extremely well, and the result of their labors was greatly relished. The fare was as follows : Oyster-soup, lobster, turkey, different kinds of meats, vegetables (the favorite being green pease), a very fine plum-duff, apple and cherry pie, North Pole cake, nuts, raisins, and wine-punch. Much time was spent at the table, and the dinner was greatly enjoyed. It was set in the lower cabin. In the evening, coffee and chocolate were served. The men got up a little diversion, in which, as every one was inclined to be merry, all took part. Two of the 247 1871. November. / 248 A Notable Procession. .\olfmb4r. "^^° ^®^® P^^^®^ ^" position and covered over so as to represent a donkey. Hans' little boy "Toby" was placed on the back of the animal and ridden about the vessel's deck. Peter Johnson was the manager, and con- trolled the movements of the beast with great skill. Noah Hayes headed the procession with his fiddle, to the sound of which the animal and its driver marched, followed by the other men. The after-guard were invited to watch the performances. Great amusement was afforded and many jokes were given and received. Some one remarked that there was a waste of material in the formation of the animal. The quantity of coal used during November was 6,334 pounds, distributed as follows : Pounds. Berth-deck \^ 604 Cabin 1,510 Galley 2,186 Observatory , 1, 028 This increase of 1,596 pounds over the quantity con- sumed during October, is attributable not only to the lower temperatures during November, but also to the kind of coal that was used. It was decided that the soft bitumi- nous coal purchased at St. John's, Newfoundland, could Anthracite and Bituminous Goal 249 be used with greater economy in the small stoves than in 1871. the furnaces. Hence, during November, the soft coal had been used exclusively, in order to save the anthracite for steaming purposes. i i r :^mmmmm!*m CHAPTER XI. No very strikinji^ event broke the monotony of life on 1871- ... 33- December. snipboard during the month of December. The vessel continued in the same position, leaning against the berg, with her bow perched upon its tongue. This situation was by no means desirable or comfortable. The ice about the stern had been piled up very high during the great pressure from the pack on the 28th of November, and it was impossible to effect any change of position. During high tide it made little difference, as the vessel was then nearly on an even keel ; but at low tide the list was exceedingly disagreeable. Those who had bunks on the port side did not mind it much; but on the other side it was often a hard matter to keep in the berths. A new fire-hole was made on the 2d, and the tidal appara- tus erected over it. The tidal observations were resumed, after a suspension of fourteen days. The seamen, when not employed about the ship, amused themselves in various ways. I 254 The Creiv. 1871. Deceaaber. Oil the 2d, the weather being calm and the tempera- ture not very low (about — 7°), the men were engaged in out-door sports. Some were driving about the ice, having harnessed several of the dogs to sleds; others were coasting, near the observatory ; while others again amused themselves constructing small sleds in the fire-room, which had been turned into a carpenter's shop. In their cabins they whiled away the time with cards, dominoes, checkers, and chess. The ship's company had been well selected. They were large and strong, understood their business, and were highly esteemed by the officers. Mr. Chester, the first mate, writes about them in the iog-book: "Our seamen are a busy set of mortals. Go into their quarters at any hour between 8 a. m. and 10 p. m., when they are not at work on deck, and you will find them busy on various branches of work, such as shoemaking, patching, whittling out and rigging minia- ture ships, and, in fact, sailorizing of all sorts ; and, what is better, perfect harmony prevailing among them. They are all good men. A better crew I don't think could have been found for an expedition like this. They keep clean and take good care of themselves. Everything about their quarters looks clean and neat. There is not much danger of such men being troubled with scurvy." Divine service was held every Sunday, and, as a rule, all the ship's company attended. Between three Halo. 265 and four o'clock on the afternoon of the 2d, a most »8T1. beautiful halo encircled the moon. The sky was clear and the circle of light was as bright as the moon herself. Vertical and horizontal rays extended from the moon to the halo, forming a perfect cross. At first this was faint, but it gradually increased in brightness, lasting about fifteen minutes, and slowly disappearing. The brightest portions were the cross and the spots where it met the circle of light. The next day a similar phenomenon was observed about 6.30 p. m. The sky was, however, then overcast, and the air was misty. The cross was very plain, although not so bright as on the 2d. There was no halo, but a bright spot to the east of the moon, forming a mock-moon, indicated where the circle would be. On the 4th, Hannah commenced making skin clothing for the use of those who were going on sledge- journeys in the spring. Mrs. Hans Hendrick dia not dis- play any anxiety to assist Hannah in these labors ; she probably felt that all her time should be occupied in the care of her children. By the 10th, all the dog-skins had been washed and prepared for making up into garments. Captain Budington remarks in his journal of this date: "All possible preparations are being made to succeed with our sledge-parties next spring. The time is passing very rapidly, and we must be prepared at as soon a time as possible, so as not to miss the best period for traveling — 256 Severe Exposure. 18TI. "the months of April and June." On the 6th, about December. 2 a. m., Dr. Bessels started over to the observatory, it being his tour of duty. A wind sprung up accompanied with heavy snow-drift. He lost his way, and after wandering around among the hummocks for some time, concluded that it was useless to attempt to find the observatory while the snow-drift continued. He accord- ingly sought shelter under the lee of an iceberg and waited there for the storm to abate. While there he kept account of the changes in the direction of the wind, which were duly recorded. After four hours' exposure, at 6 a. m., he reached the observatory; strange to say, he did not suffer any ill effects from this exposure. To prevent the recurrence of such an accident, the captain directed that a line should be stretched from the ship to the observatory. The natives built snow pillars at intervals of thirty or forty feet, on which a wire, covered with rubber, was stretched ; the wire had been put on board the vessel for contingencies. At noon of the 6th, the twilight arch was ascer- tained by measurement to have the height of 3° 16'. A remarkable change of temperature had taken place during the 5th instant. When the breeze from the southwest set in, the temperature rose in a single hour from — 3° F. to4-9°F.; it subsequently rose as high as +14°, the highest temperature observed during the month. On the Auroras. 257 10th, the mercury rose to -flT from —3°. During the I8TI. first half of the month the temperature ranged quite high, ***" *'* the lowest being —24°; on the 7th and 8th, the tempera- ture was below —20°; the mean was about —11°. The last half of the month was, however, much colder. With the exception of the warm speQ about the 19th, the temperature was nearly always below —20°; the lowest, on the 25th, being —33°. The meteorological observations were recommenced after the storm of the 2l8t of November. Mr. Meyer remained at the observatory for sixteen hours, and Dr. Bessels the remaining eight, each day. Mr. Meyer's spare time at the observatory was employed in mathematical studies. He was an ardent, laborious student. Ho usu- ally made all the observations from 9 a. m. to midnight, inclusive. On the 10th, during the greater part of the day a faint aurora was visible. Toward evening it be- came more briUiaut, and underwent a variety of changes. At one time it was in the form of an arch stretching from S. W. to N. W., and rising to an elevation of about 20°. Hermann Siemens says: "We also saw numerous shoot- ing-stars, sometimes forming, as it were, a silver thread, from the point where they first appeared to that of disap- pearance; in a few instances I have seen small fire-balls pushing out from them, similar to those of a rocket." On the evening of the 16th, there was a brilliant dis- 17 Decemb 258 The Ice of the Straits. 1871. play of auroral action; innumerable rays shot up from the icember. . ^ r southern horizon, some of which passed through the zenith to the northern horizon. They were constantly changing ; the northern rays disappearing, and the southern collect- ing in the S. E., and moving rapidly to the S. W , where they vanished. On the 17th and 18th also, auroral displays were seen. No color was observed in any of these phenomena. They lasted several days, varying from day to day in form and motion. The ice in the s,traits continued loose ; the least atmospheric disturbance was sufficient to set large masses, of it in motion. On the 9th of the month, the noise could be heard at the ship. On the 8th, the land on the west side could be seen notwithstanding the polar night. Cape Lieber, the most northern land visited by Dr. Hayes, was in clear view, as well as land to the north and south of it. On the 10th, open water was observed two or three miles distant. This was the period of springs. The ice about the shore was piled up in great confusion; but such was the accumulation about the berg that no apprehen- sion of its moving was felt. At times, and particularly on the 15th, a water-cloud over the patches of open water in the straits obscured from view the coast of Grinnell Land. Heavy Pressure. On the 17th, the open water was only one mile dis- tant; the space it covered could not be distinguished from the deck. On the 19th, the pack was driven in by a westwardly wind, and this open space was closed. On the 11th, the Polaris labored greatly; the creak- ing of her timbers as she moved up and down against the berg sounded like volleys of musketry. On the 13th, Captain Budington remarks in his jour- nal: "The berg, which is continually breaking in pieces (i. e., from which pieces are continually broken), is pressed more towards the vessel. An old floe rests right against it on the sea side, and to the right and left of this floe the hummocks are piled up to the height of thirty feet above the sea-level; some pretty near as high as the berg itself." The effect of this constant pressure was to raise the vessel still higher, increasing her inclination at low tide. Thus her condition became worse and worse as the winter advanced. The snow houses built by the natives after the south- west gale of November 28th were never occupied ; in a few days after the storm had subsided they became re-assured and were content to remain on board. In the mean time the ice was accumulating in the berths. This could not be otherwise ; being against the sides of the ship, the berths could not be kept warm enough by the heat from the small cabin-stoves. 259 1871. December. 260 1871. December. I) Making Sleds. Before the vessel broke adrift she was surrounded by a very deep snow wall, which kept the berths much warmer. The difference caused by the absence of this snow wall was shown by the thermometer. Several ther- mometers placed in a box near the stern were read three times a day for the captain's journal and the log-book. While the snow was about the vessel the readings agreed exactly with those of the instruments at the observatory. When, however, the snow wall ceased to exist, the instruments at the ship read from 2° to 4^ higher, in consequence of which simultaneous observations were dis- continued. In the forecastle the same difficulty did not exist. On each side were the coal-bunkers, and thus a large body of air was between the sides of the ship and the bulk- heads, against which the seamen's bunks were built. In the lower cabin there was not much ice, for, although the berths were against the vessel's sides, they were somewhat protected. In the upper cabin the trouble was the greatest. On the 11th, the carpenter was set to work making sleds for spring travel. The starboard alley-way having been given up as a dining-saloon was turned into a car- penter-shop, and here the carpenter worked for several hours each day. The alley-way received some heat from the galley, notwithstanding which it was cold ; yet the carpenter worked faithfully, and turned out sleds both large and small. i-:s^.t-:^^«K»^fiiS3!Ka»^*' Dog-Food. 261 » Nearly every day the men were employed about two 1871. hours after breakfast in sweeping the decks and putting ****•"***'• the ship to rights, in filling up the ice-house, and bringing provisions from the store-houses on shore. The dogs were regularly fed. Captain Hall had tried as dog- food a hash made of dried salmon and sea-bread; but as it was thought to have caused the death of several dogs it was given up. Captain Budington's first intention, after the seal-meat procured at the Danish settlement was used up, had been to prepare a mixture of bread and pem- mican. Dr. Bessels, upon being consulted, did not con- sider it a good plan, because dogs are carnivorous; the captain thereupon determined to feed them upon pemmican alone. He remarks in his journal: "We must care for them as much as we do for ourselves. The whole success of the expedition depends on our dogs, for with our vessel we cannot hope to reach a much higher latitude." During the evening of the 20th, the moon shone with wonderful brilliancy upon the snow and ice, making every object, however distant, remarkably plain. Distant ob- jects were brought so much nearer that Cape Lupton, four miles off, seemed to be within the reach of a short walk ; and the same with Cape Lieber. The scene was solemn and impressive. The 21st was not allowed to pass by without that tin '"*^*^#«t&» 262 Christmas Eve 1871. notice which it always receives from Arctic explorers. December. *^ * The twilight had daily grown less and less, until it was nothing but a light streak over the southern mountains for a few hours each day. It gave no light, and was but just discernible. The long-continued darkness had become opp-essive; the exclusive use of artificial light began to affect the eyes, and the trouble of carrying a lantern whenever one went out, was trying. The absence of light produced the physical effect of languor. On the 24th, the men were invited to join the officers in the lower cabin at 8 p; m., there to celebrate Christmas Eve. The room was decorated with flags hung about the walls and festooned over the door. The name "Polaris" was exhibited in large, red letters on a white ground, and the table was loaded with good things. The stores of the vfc ssel had been liberally drawn upon to furnish the requi- site entertainment. The object of the greatest admiration was a Christmas-tree which stood in the middle of the table, a regular pine in appearance, filled with golden fruit and toys ; wax candles burning from every bough added not a little to the effect. This tree possessed a peculiar attrac- tion of its own. Through Dr. Bessels's contrivance one of the branches was made to bleed profusely, and the sap was gathered in glasses and pronounced delicious. After the company had been served from the bountiful table, and each had paid more than one visit to the flowing Celebration. 263 branch, another feature of the evening's entertainment 1871. appeared. It was a lottery. Mysterious packages were '•*"*"'**''• produced and distributed as the numbers were drawn from a hat. They were not to be opened until 10 o'clock ; but curiosity prevailed, and they were soon examined. A great deal of amusement was afforded by the dis- covery that the packages contained toys, of various kinds, and small trinkets, which had been brought by Captain Hall for distribution among the Esquimaux children. The men enjoyed the joke exceedingly, and merrily twitted each other on the appropriateness of their respective gifts. "Big Fred," as Frederick Jamka was always called, amused the company very much by the answer he made to one who asked him why he could not have waited until 10 o'clock before he opened his package. He said it was 10 by his watch, and thereupon held up a little toy watch, the hands of M^hich indicated 10 hours 10 minutes. With many toasts and remembrances of friends at home, and for the success of the enterprise, and with much fun and story-telling, a pleasant hour passed rapidly away. The only drawback to the enjoyment of the occasion was the shadow of Hall's death, which fell upon every one's thoughts. It was arranged to have a balloon ascension after the festivities of the evening, and all hands muffled up and gathered on the ice near the ship. The balloon was prepared, but the wind was so strong that all attempts 264 A Beautiful Day. December *^ ^'^^* *^® cotton proved unsuccGssful, and finally it was torn to pieces. Another was brought out, and after many trials met the fate of its predecessor, much to the morti- fication of those assisting in its preparation and the dis- appointment of those who had braved the cold to witness its ascent. After these abortive attempts the two messes separated, but in their different quarters hilarity was kept up until a late hour. Some objected to holding the gathering on Christmas Eve because it was Sunday night, and they wished to have it postponed until Christmas evening ; but the ma- jority would not listen to the postponement. The Ger- mans, especially, insisted on its observance, and the others cheerfully yielded. The 25th was a beautiful day, and although the thermometer stood 33° below zero, the weather was exceedingly pleasant. Captain Budington's journal says : "It appears as if Nature herself would join us in the celebration of Christmas day. The full moon changes night into day, and illuminates the straits as a chandelier does a ball-room." At 3 p. m., the cook served another of his elaborate dinners. In addition to the ordinary dishes made from the ship's stores, and which of them- selves when presented in all their variety, constituted a very good bill of fare, special preparations appeared, which were the more relished as they were unexpected. Very Christmas Dinner. 265 good beefsteaks, taken from a portion of the musk-ox \^7i, killed in the fall, gave the impression that butchers and ***" "' markets, and other types of civilization, were not after all beyond reach. Next some roast pork from the pig killed in Upernavik was warmly welcomed. The spare-rib, not- withstanding its age of four months, was as fresh and sweet as though but just taken from the animal. Then, as if to shut out all ideas suggestive of Arctic snows and colds and horrors, among the desserts, mince-pie appeared made of fresh musk-ox meat, dried apples, raisins, &c. ; it was unquestionably good, if the demand for it can be admitted as evidence of the fact. A few bottles of wine were broached. At 8 p. m., a very strong gale sprang up from the N. E., blowing at times in violent squalls, accompanied by snow-drift. It was, however, of short duration, last- ing only until 1.30 a. m. In the afternoon of the 26th, Joe and Hans reported quite a large body of open water about four miles from the berg. On this day Captain Budington speaks in his journal respecting the position of the vessel as follows : " On ascending the Providence Iceberg and taking a look around, we see at first the open water at a distance of from three to four miles, extending the whole length of the strait from north to south. Our vessel lies on the edge of the land-floe, protected from seaward by the icebeni. 26C Situation of the Vessel > Delember "^^® ^^^^^ ^^ *^® southeast. She is protected from any danger in that direction by a considerable bergy mass of ice, which seems to be grounded and partially kept from going adrift by our Providence Berg. Her stern has a safe- guard in the form of a large piece of our iceberg which was broken off during the last gale that broke us out of our position. It now appears to be aground not far off our stern, and which will stop the progress of floes in case the land-ice should become broken. The only danger, therefore, that threatens us is from the sea side, and this in the form of southwest igales, in connection with spring- tides, which may push the vessel further in shore. She will then have only two chances. She must either resist the pressure of the berg and break the land-ice, which has ailready acquired the thickness of three feet, or she will be lifted up out of the water, which would, however, not occur without the loss of rudder and propeller. This could only be effected by a strong gale of several days' duration. The ice before the berg must first be set in motion before, even with the aid of spring-tide, Provi- dence Berg could be driven in. With northeast winds, the prevailing ones here, we generally have a very low tide; therefore it is almost impossible for the berg to go adrift before spring. We are, however, in by no means a safe position." He then goes on to express his regret that hia \.-:m Its Dangers. 267 advice in regard to winter quarters had not been fol- isri. lowed. The vessel, according to his idea, would have ""**•"*"• been safely anchored in Newman's Bay, and entirely free from all the dangers by which she was now beset. There would have been no drifting in the pack, no breaking out, no subsequent forcing upon the berg, and no daily motions in her icy bed, had the vessel been guided as his experi- ence directed. She would have wintered at least twenty miles further north, and nearer the musk-ox feeding- grounds. "On the 27th, the atmosphere was foggy and the whole heavens overcast with low stratus-clouds. The moon was slightly visible through the fog, having a large halo." The vessel's position was so uncomfortable that life on board became almost iinendurable ; at every low tide she lay over to port, almost on her beam-ends, and it was desirable, for several reasons, to attempt to get her off from the berg and enable her to remain upright. ]^ot only were her constant movements sources of incon- venience to her occupants, but it was feared she herself would sustain serious injury. Her rudder and propeller were so far under the ice that they could not be seen, and many thought they had become fastened in, so that when the vessel lay over she broke them off and left them in the position in which they were when frozen into the ice. It was argued, too, that this constant motion while the 268 Failure. Delfmber. ^^^ remained perched upon the tongue of the herg must necessarily result in wrenching the bow and breaking off the keel. Little hope, however, was entertained that much eould be done toward the liberation of the vessel until late in the spring, when human efforts would be aided by the powerful influence of the sun. Nevertheless an attempt was made in that direction on the 28th. It was perhaps done more to give employment to the men, and by a little excitement break the dull monotony of ship- life, than with the expectation of doing much good, '^'our large charges of gunpowder were exploded under the ice in different places not far from the ship's side, but, beyond jarring the ice and the vessel, no effect was produced; the ice was not even cracked. Luminous streamers were seen on the 29th, extending in an arch from northeast to southwest through the zenith. On the 30th, the Esquimaux reported open water within one mile of the vessel. It could not, however, be seen from the summit of Providence Berg, as the straits were covered with an impenetrable black fog. On the last day of the year the twilight was brighter than it had appeared for a long time. The sky was perfectly clear, and the moon, being in the northwest, was very distinct. Some thought that they could detect a light straw color quite near the horizon. This rapid and marked increase in the extent of the twilight arch was very gratifying, and The New Year. 269 was the subject of constant remark. Then speculations isn. as to future movements always foll^T-ed. Perhaps no one "•*"""**'• thing was more talked about than the question of the probable success or failure of different plans for carrying out the objects of the expedition. Divine service was held as usual at 1 1 a. m. Precisely at 12 midnight the ship's bell was rung merrily to welcome in the Now Year. A bowl of hct punch was brewed, according to the most approved plan, by Dr. Bessels. The men forward fired a salute and sent a delegation to the cabin to congratulate the officers on the occasion. This was very kindly received, and thanks were returned for their courtesy, with the assurance of the officers' continued good will and kind wishes. Profiting by their experience on Christmas Eve, and favored by calm weather, the balloon managers were successful, early on New Year's day, in sending up a balloon. Nearly all the ship's company were out on the ice to watch it as it was carried away by the light wind just felt from the east. After stopping a minute in the rigging, it rose and moved off to the west- ward, until it entirely disappeared. When it had passed out of sight all were invited into the cabin, where the remainder of the punch was mad^ to disappear in a remarkably short space of time. The amount of coal used during the month of Decem- ber was as follows: 270 Coal *®''^** Pounds. December. n ■, > Cabin 1,882 Forecastle 1,920 Galley 2,898 Observatory 1,360 Total 8,060 This was an increase upon the consumption during the month of November, but not more perhaps than was to be expected from the decrease of temperature and the exposure of the vessel's sides for want of a snow wall. Captain Budington, in his journal of January 2d, thus speaks of the coal-supply: "We try to save coal in every possible way. The fire in the galley-stove is extinguished after dinner is over, at 3 p. m. Even the ashes, after having fallen through the grates, are returned to the stoves, in order to save the small particles of coal that might slip through and thereby escape their destina- tion. A commission, appointed on the 8th of September, 1871, by Captain Hall, to report on the amount of coal in the bunkers, estimated it to be about one hundred tons. Since then we have used so much coal that we are better able to inspect and estimate the remainder, and are satisfied that there must have been some mistake, and that there could not have been more than eighty tons. If the consumption of this fuel is continued at the Necessity of Steam, "same rate, a stoppage of which, without endangering our health, is not possible, we will hardly have enough for two winters, to say nothing of using steam on our return. The idea of piloting the vessel through Smith Sound with the aid of sails is an absurdity. Without con- sidering the safety of the vessel, the experiences of both Kane and Hayes are sufficient to show that a sailing-vessel, and especially one like ours, can do abso- lutely nothing. The first opportunity, however, we get to leave this winter-harbor will be taken, and with the aid of steam or sails, as conditions permit us, we will attempt to reach a higher latitude, so as to enable us to carry out the objects we are sent for." The winds during December were extremely variable. Those from the N. E. were the most frequent and violent; the S. W. storms were next in duration and severity. There were many days of total calm, and on others lijrht winds blew from different directions. The sky was ren- dered cloudy by the proximity of open water; heavy, and at times impervious, fogs prevailed. 271 1871. December. M XII. 18 I CHAPTER XI T. For several hours during the morning of the 2d, the men worked very hard to loosen the ice under the vessel, in order that she might be on an even keel. A deep ditch was cut at a distance of 15 feet from her, in which holes were made through the ice which was from 4 to 5 feet in thickness. Then four large bottles of powder were introduced under the ice, by means of long poles that served to regulate the positions of the bottles. The fuses were ignited at the proper time, and the bottles exploded simultaneously. The result was a disappointment. The ice was but jarred, particularly near the vessel, so that those on the ice felt the shock. It was evidently the idea of some that the whole body of the ice between the ditch and the vessel would be broken into atoms, and fragments cast to a considerable distance. Accordingly, when the fuses were lighted, there had been a retreat for protection. This was very amusing to those who remained near the holes. Mr. Chester, in his comic manner, as soon as he 1873. January. 276 187a. Jnnnnry Ice- Blasting. noticed this movement on tlio part of some of the men, ridiculed it by feigning the utmost fear, and ran with all speed far beyond any of the men, ensconcing himself be- hind a large berg. He climbed up the berg on the side farthest from the vessel, and after the explosion, his head appeared over its top, and in the most anxious tones he inquired if all were safe. After repeated assurances he cautiously approached the ship. The ice was not seri- ously affected ; it was not even cracked. But the shock to the vessel was so great that it was considered impru- dent to explode a largei; quantity of powder, and the idea of relieving the vessel in that manner was abandoned. With the aid of Mr. Schumann and fireman Booth the pendulum was erected near the west side of the ob- servatory. Dr. Bessels superintended its erection, and formed the plan by which the box in which it swung was so securely supported that its oscillations could not be affected by any extraneous movement. His account of this is as follows : "PENDULUM EXPERIMENT. " The pendulum is an invariable, reversible brass pen- dulum, of 5 feet 7.75 inches in length, and very near syn- chronous, but not convertible. It is swung on steel knife- edges, and suspended in a box of strong board with a glass door. In order to disconnect the instrument as far as pos- sible from the small building in which it was swung, a The Pendulum. 277 " square hole was cut through the floor in the middle of the * S^a. Jan nary. ^ western wall of the observatory. Underneath this open- ing a heavy piece of timber was frozen solid to the ground. As the floor of the hut did not rest directly on the soil, but was placed on beams of oak, the plank mentioned before was entirely isolated from the observatory, and be- came as firm, under the influence of the low temperature, after the course of a few days, as the frozen soil itself upon which it rested. On this piece of timber the pen- dulum-box was screwed in such a manner that the plane in which the pendulum was swung was that of the me- ridian, and in order to secure the utmost steadiness a bar- rel was placed outside the observatory on the same plank on which the pendulum-box rested. The barrel was sur- rounded by a heap of gravel, which was moistened with water in order to cement it in a solid manner to the plank. After this was done a hole was cut through the wall of the observatory behind the place where the pendulum-box was fastened. A half-inch iron bar, bent at right angles, was passed through this hole, and one end of it was fast- ened to the back wall of the box by means of five screws. The other end, which was about three feet over the center of the barrel outside of the observatory, was screwed to a three-inch iron bar set up nearly perpendicular in the keg. "After having accomplished the work so far, the 278 1 87a. January Pendulum Observations. ** barrel was filled with gravel and sand, over which was poured some water. Before the mass was frozen hard wc leveled the pendulum-box as nearly as could be done, and when it was found to be tolerably level, the bar outside was fastened by means of ropes to the wall of the observ- atory, in order to prevent it from giving way and disturb- ing the position of the box. After two days had elapsed, the gravel was frozen solid and the ropes were removed. It was found that the box had not changed its level ; but, at the same time, it was not so steady as might have been expected. To secure it better, a hole of three inches diameter was drilled through the floor of the observatory, about one foot north of the box, and another one of the same diameter and at the same distance south of it. Through each of these holes an iron bar, one inch thick and three feet long, was driven into the frozen soil and connected with the box by means of two other iron bars bent at right angles, similar to the one mentioned above, and screwed together in a similar manner. "The vibrations (performed in the plane of the me- ridian) were observed with a small direct-vision telescope placed about eight feet east of the arc of the pendulum. The point of the swinging knife-edge served as a mark, and observations were made with vibrations from right to left (north to south) and from left to right to correct for eccentricity of mark. Each mi was begun with right. Pendulum Observations. "An arc of a circle of 39.25 inches radius, divided from the middle eac^ way to five degrees, with subdivisions of tenths of degrees, was placed over the swinging knife- edge, and the extreme excursions to the right and left noted. The times were recorded by a sidereal chronome- ter, which was compared with five other box-chronome- ters, by means of a pocket-chronometer, before and after each sot of observations was taken. The pendulum was swung in four different positions designated by the num- ber stamped on the rod near the knife-edge ; the number facing the telescope thus indicating the pobition ; the num- bers 1 and 2 being on one side, and 3 and 4 on the reverse. The steel plates upon which the knife-edge rested were leveled by a small spirit-level every time be- fore the set was begun, when the door of the box was closed and kept shut till the set was finished." The pendulum had been ready some time, but it was not until the 2d, that observations were begun. Mr. Bryan, who had charge, had been occupied with the transit instrument in observing moon-culminations. During the 3d, a strong breeze from the N. E. pre- vailed, reaching a velocity of forty-five miles, and at times blowing in violent squalls, but at 5 p. m., suddenly it died away. At 9.30 a. m., of the 4th, an arch of luminous streamers extended from N. E. to S. W. through the zenith. The twilight into which one end of the arch 279 1879. January. *fe|^' 280 1879. January. Increase of Twilight, vanished, extended from southeast to southwest. It had now become so luminous that the elevated points on the mountain -range were remarkably distinct. Near the horizon a yellowish hue was seen. On the 5th, as Hermann Siemens was making the tidal observations, his attention was attracted by the cries of a dog apparently' coming from the starboard bow. He found, on going there, one of the little puppies fast in the ice. It had been caught in the ice when it closed by a change in the tide, and was unable to free himself; it was liberated by a hatchet, and restored by being placed near the stove. Nearly all day on the 6th, beautiful auroral displays were seen. During the morning, luminous though faint clouds were observed in different parts of the heavens. At 3 p. m., the sky being clear and the breeze light from the south, these clouds, in the form of an arch, extended from northeast to southwest, enlarging toward the northeast and accumulating abovt the mountains. In half an hour they resumed their original shape, and appeared in the form of light yellow and white bands. These phenomena were present during thv°i whole even- ing, bein<7 seen in every direction. Fantastic forms of light came and went rapidly, and a frequent appearance was that of a cirro-stratus cloud. On the morning of the 7th, a perfect arch extending from north to south was An Auroral Phenomenon. observed. It consisted of uniform bands of yellow and white. Divine service was held as usual at 11a. m., in the lower cabin. The minimum temperature for the previous twenty-four hours observed at 8 a. m. on the 9th, was — 48°, the lowest that had been observed up to that time. Throughout the 9th, the weather remained fair and cold, but at 1 a. m. of the 10th, a fresh gale from the N. E. sprang up, accompanied with snow. Siemens says in his journal that on the 10th, at 5 in the morning, a bright arc was seen in the sky passing from the western horizon through the zenith to the east, parallel with the milky way, and distant from it about 12°. It disappeared about 6 a. m., leaving three clouds of similar brightness. This phenomenon, if elec- tric, did not show itself in the needle. Narrow bright strips were distinctly seen running into the arc from the south. At the same time luminous streamers of a greenish hue were shooting up from the eastern horizon. The atmosphere was very hazy at the time, and only stars of the first magnitude could be seen. Siemens thought the phenomenon an aurora. Spring-tide came on the 10th, but was kept down by a strong wind. An unusually low tide on the 1 1th, caused the vessel to hang over even more than she had done. To move about the deck required a great deal of care. 281 1879. January. ■m 282 1879. January. Sleeping-Bags. The preparation of sleepinjr-bags for the spring travelers was now begun. One or two had been bought in the Danibh settlements; others were made from skins in store and covered with canvas. At 9.30 p. m. of the 11th, a very strong gale from the northeast com- menced, continuinir with unabated force during the morn- ing of the 12th. The squalls were very violent, and the air was filled with the thick snow-drift. At 10 a. m., an aurora was observed, which is described in Budington's journal. Two imperfect bands of parallel luminous clouds extended from northeast to southwest, passing into an arch on hoth sides of the zenith, exhibiting a light yellow color toward the north, and a pure white toward the zenith, where they were somewhat more faint. Their appearance and shape toward the north were those of broken cirro- stratus clouds; while the part of the arch south of the zenith was a long, uninterrupted, somewhat faint band, milk-white. On the 14th, at 7 p. m., there was a perfect arch, of a white color, on the eastern horizon; it was very distinct, and from it beams shot toward the zenith. No other mo- tion was visible. It commenced from the star Arcturus, and passed the constellation Leonis, a few degrees south- east of which it vanished. On the 16th, twilight was visible as early as 8 a. m. Health of the Crew. The ship's company began to look forward to the time when there would be no night and active spring-work would begin. It was a source of the greatest gratification that all were as healthy as when the sun had disappeared. No case of sickness had occurred, and the scurvy, that special dread of Arctic travelers, had not shown itself in even the slightest form. As the sunlight increased, so that one could look upon another without the aid of artificial light, it was noticed that the long confinement had bleached the skin and given a peculiar pallor to the face. There was nothing, however, in this to cause anxiety, as each one felt that he needed only a few days' sunlight to be entirely restored to his usual strength. The good health of the men was unquestionably due to the mild and judicious dis- cipline of Captain Budington. His idea was to keep the men during the Arctic winter warm and comfortable; to indulge every reasonable request and make them contented; and to encourage them to take voluntary exercise. He held that by this course the danger of scurvy would be lessened, and accordingly. he directed only such labors as were indispensable; the people, when thus called upon, entered upon their tasks with interest. He allowed them the fullest liberty to come and go according to their own pleasure while conforming to the rules of the ship. He supplied them with guns and ammunition, and encouraged them to go in quest of game. Their food was carefully 283 IS 79. Jaiiuarf. 284 Open Water. lunJury, ^^^^^^^^ ^"^ prepared, embracing as much variety as the condition of the ship's stores admitted. Pork was the only salt meat on board, and there were several anti-scorbutics. It is, however, by no means certain that salt meat alone causes the scurvy. The Esquimaux arc troubled with it, and they feed entirely on fresh meat, getting salt only from the sea-water, which is occasionally used to boil their meats. The disease does not proceed from food only, but depends also on the situation and the state of mind of the patient. Where there are severe labor and exposure, the predisposing causes are strengthened. On the morning of this day, from the top of Provi- dence Berg a dark fog was seen to the north, indicating water. At 10 a. m., three of the men, Kruger, Ninde- mann, and Hobby, went to Cape Lupton to ascertain, if possible, the extent of the open water. On their return they reported several open spaces and much young ice — not more than a day old — so thin that it was easily broken by throwing pieces of ice upon it. The large floes on the borders of the open water were moving, as they judged from the sound, but they were not able to distinguish the direction in which they were drifting. Late in the even- ing Hans started out to the cape for the purpose of hunt- . ing in the open water. The moon was very near the horizon, so that he was not much assisted by its light. He saw no open water, it having been covered with young Sledges Finished, 285 ioT, since the morning visit of the men. Hans thought ho »8y«. leard a walrus blow, but could not see the animal. "nn-ry. irly on the morning of the 17th, Captain Tyson and Joo started for Cape Lupton in time to arrive there at liibutiian, when the twilight was brightest, that iney might examine the condition of the ice in the straits. Upon their return they reported that no water was to bo seen, and that the straits appeared to be covered with young ice, not strong enough to bear their w^eight, mixed with large floes which seemed to have just drifted together. A low cloud of frost-smoke was seen toward the western coast of the channel. The carpenter, who had been for a long time em- ployed making sledges, finished his work on the four small sleds and commenced the construction of the large ones. The Httle sleds were designed for individual work. It was supposed that there might come a time in the course of the spring sledge-journeys when the large sledges could no longer be used, and, in order to be provided for such an emergency, these smaller sleds were built. The plan in this case was for the members of the party to start on, with the small ones, each dragging his own provisions. The sleds were all ready for service except shoeing the runners. Mr. Schumann made a thorough examination of the engine, and found that it was in excellent order, not 53H!L.ti/i^j m<':m , Hi 286 Meteorological Observers. Mlnlary. ^^^^°^ ^®^^ mimed 'ill any way during the winter. It was now overhauled and cleaned. The twilight at noon of the 1 9th, is described as being brilliant, exhibiting prismatic colors of great beauty. The effort to obtain a spectrum from the twilight was unsuc- cessful. Mr. Meyer had been engaged for nearly two months in meteorological observations during sixteen hours each day. He was getting worn out; the con- tinued strain was too much for him. He found that he must begin to husband his strength for the labors of the spring. J. B. Mauch, who had, since the death of Hall, been writing the journal for Captain Budington, was selected to relieve Mr. Meyer of part of his duties. Mauch having been instructed in the reading of the in- struments and recording the observations, and being clever and well educa^^ed, Mr. Meyer did not hesitate to intrust him with the charge of the meteorological observations during one-third of the day. He accordingly commenced on the 19th, to maiie observations from 11 a. m. to 7 p. m. The same day Eobert Kruger and Frederick Jamka made an excursion toward the north. The following is the narrative of their journey : " Soon after 3 p. m., we left the vessel with a sled and team of eight dogs, with the intention to reach the second cape north. On going round the first cape (Lup- An Excursion. ton), the change in the ice struck us; for about three weeks ago it was full of hummocks, intermingled with bergs larger than our Providence Iceberg. Now, all this had changed, and a new field of ice covered the waters, free from any hummocks or bergs save those that had been pushed up on shore. On arriving at the second cape, we left the dogs and sled in a safe place, and started to ascend a hill about one hundred feet above sea-level, from whence we would be able to enjoy a good view to the northward. Not far off the land a vast amount of open water appeared, extending to the northward as far as we could see, and bathing both shores in its waves. The moon, at the time, was shining so brightly that, by our estimation, we were able to see twenty miles ahead. At that point the straits seemed to get narrower. Having stopped there about a quarter of an hour, we concluded to return. Between the second and first cape we had to force our way against a strong breeze from the southwest, which was accompanied by a violent snow- drift; the wind entirely ceased as soon as we rounded the first cape. The whole excursion 'lasted about four hours. We were obliged to stop the dogs several times to disentangle their lines, especially on our way back to the vessel." While this party experienced a strong southwest gale, a light breeze from the east was felt at the vessel. 287 1872. January. 288 1879. JTannar^' Trips to Cape Lupton. On the 21st, at 12 o'clock, divine service was held as usual. The temperature was, part of the day, up to zero, and a light snow fell during several hours. On the 23d, the two Esquimaux, accompanied hy two of the seamen, went to Cape Lupton. They reported a sea of open water extending as far as the eye could reach. On the 24th, Dr. Bessels, with two of the seamen, started at 11 a. m., with a dog-team, to go north and examine the water reported by the seamen. They reached the third cape without difficulty. Leaving their sled, they arrived at the open water about 2 p. m. They reported a current there running to the north at a rate variously estimated from four miles to half a mile per hour; at the same hour at the vessel the tide was falling. At 7.30 p. m., Mr. Bryan and Mauch left the observatory to walk up to Cape Lupton. They took the ice, as affording smoother traveling than the shore. About half-way up they met Hayes, who was just return- ing from a tramp to the third cape; he had found a thermometer-case, which had been dropped by Dr. Bes- sels. They pursued a narrow way between the steep debris of the cape and a row of stranded icebergs, which was large enough for the passage of a sled. After passing the cape they ascended a hill, from which there was a good view of the straits. About three miles from the shore a narrow channel of water extended Magnetometer. to the north, the end of which was invisible. The moon was very bright, though partially obscured on their return journey by a light mist. Presently a large halo appeared, exhibiting, on its lower part toward the south, faint spectrum colors. Mock-moons, were seen — sometimes one and sometimes two on either side. They reached the vessel at 10.30 p. m., after a walk of about eight miles. On the 28th, Mr. Chester and a small party with dogs and sled, went to inspect the open water which Jiow prevented their rounding the third cape. Mr. Chester observed a current of one mile an hour toward the north. The existence of this open water was regarded as favora- ble to boat journeys in the spring. A large sled was ordered, upon which one of the boris could be trans- ported to the open water, the extent of which it was proposed to ascertain as soon as possible. Toward evening, the sky cleared, and the western coast could be distinctly seen. On the 26th, Mr. Bryan had corariienced making obf'ervations with the magnetometer. The ^ku was to ^,oi:tinue them for a few months with hour^ observations, excepting on a term-day each week, when they were to be made every six minutes. Br. Bessels and Mr. Meyer both assisted and read the magnetoraet<:^r during the hours of their watch at the observatory. For ^. veral days there 19 289 1872. January. 290 Small Print Read. 1879. January was a precipitation in the form of ice-crystals, which covered everything, and accumulated in great masses on any metallic surface. On the 28th, Divine service was held as usual at 12 o'clock. On the 29th, a small arc of twiUght was visible above the western horizon at 5 p. m. On the 30th, the twi- light at noon made it sufficiently light to read small print. At 4.30 p. m., two faint bands of luminous clouds were seen extending from northeast to southwest. At 5 p. m., a streamer was seen extending from Hegulus to Altair, where it vanished before the twilight arc. This streamer was in the form of an arch, and very irreg- ular in its illumination, some parts being quite faint. It was brightest in the east where it commenced, and Eeg- ulus shone through its most illuminated part. During the whole of the display Mr. Bryan sat watching the mag- netometer, but no d ^flection occurred attributable to the streamers. On the 31st, a very heavy gale from the northeast commenced to blow, increasing in violence until it had acquired in the afternoon a velocity of 44 miles per hour. It was accompanied by snow-drift, which rendered ex- posure by no means a trifling matter. A snow wall was formed about the vessel 4 feet deep. It was almost im- possible to read the instruments ; the snow-drift tilled the Heavy Gales. eyes and froze the water with which they became suflFused. Notwithstanding that the observatory was well banked up with snow, there were still a few cracks exposed, and through these it drifted, making three heaps upon the floor. The observer was compelled to shovel out the snow, and his watch was a cold and cheerless one in spite of a good fire. During January, the highest temperature was + 3°.2 F.; the lowest, — 43^; the mean, — 21°. 9. The gale which commenced on the last day of January continued throughout the 1st of February. The snow-drift was remarkably heavy, and filled up the tide-hole so rapidly that it was found impossible to keep it clear, so that the observations were necessarily omitted. The wind blew with the greatest force between the hours of 6 and 7 in the afternoon, when the anemometer registered a velocity of 53 miles. As it blew in squalls, there were times when its velocity was much greater. The temperature during the severest part of the storm was — 22°. Facing such a wind at this temperature was by no means com- fortable or safe. The coal used during January amounted to 7,262 291 1879. January. ^^^ Coal Consumed. illl^^, P°""^^' "^^^^"^ ^ decrease of 798 pounds from the amount used in December. The consumption was distributed as follows: PouDds. Cabin 1,673 Forecastle j 726 Ciailey 2,274 Observatory 1,589 --—m, -i».„ liiMi^iiSfl 1 wr^ W^'^ Qt /I A XIII. I OHAPTEK XTII. 4 i\ The 1st of February was one of the magnetic "term- days." The observers had a severe time, remaining con- tinually in the cold snow-house, and jotting down every six minutes the reading of the magnetometer. They had, however, a small deer-skin bag in which they encased their feet and legs, and were able without any very great discomfort to remain there several hours at a time. On the 2d, the heavy snow-bank was cleared away from the fire-hole, and the tidal observations were resumed. Although the sky was overcast, the twi- light afforded sufficient light to read the anemometer at meridian. On the od, the carpenter finished one of the lar^e sledges for transporting the boats. It was 14 feet lono- and 2i feet between the centers of the runners, which were 2^ inches thick, and lOi inches high. Fourteen cross-bars, 41 by 2h inches each, were fastened by strong lashes of raw-hide to the runners, which thus had a play 1879. February. 296 1879. Fcbmarjr. A Meteor. of about six degi-ees; moving easily ahead at this angle. This play of the runners was a great advantage when transporting a heavy load over rough ice; it is a feature common to all Esquimaux sleds. The twilight was now so bright that any kind of print, from fine diamond up, could be easily read. A spectrum was for the first time observed. Only stars of the first magnitude could be clearly seen. Mauch thus records an observation of a meteor : "At 4.30 p. m., when making my observation, and just attempting to read the anemometer, I observed in the east, above the range of hills, a bright meteor slowly moving in a southerly direction toward the ground, at an angle of 45°. Its height when I first saw it was the same a^ that of Procyon. It was of a light bluish color, resembling closely in its whole appearance the blue light that falls from some kinds of rocket, when they burst in the air. Before it disappeared behind the hills, it left a few sparks behind, which, however, were soon extin- guished. Its size was that of one of the stars of the first magnitude." Parties of seamen now went every day to Cape Lupton to examine the open water. Twilight lasted on the 4th, from half-past six in the morning until half-past five in the afternoon. Divine ser- vice waa held as usual at 12 o'clock. During the entire Magnetic Disturbances. day remarkable disturbances in the motions of the inair- notic needle were observed. As was expected, a very fine auroral display was witnessed in the evening. The movements wore many and complicated, and the spec- tacle grand in the extreme. Doctor Bessels stood outside the observatory sketching and taking notes of the rapid changes of the phenomena. He held a string leading into the magnetic snow-house, where Mr. Bryan sat watch- ing the magnetometer. The doctor pulled the string when changes occurred, and Mr. Bryan being thus warned noted the time and read the magnetometer. In this way they were able to trace the effect of various combinations and movements. It may be said, in general, that the greatest disturb- ance occurred several hours before an aurora was visible. The following short description of the display is condensed from Mauch's journal : At 7 p. m., as I was returning to the ship from the observatory, I noticed the slaty appearance of the sky to the northwest and the occasional shooting up of luminous streamers. At 7.15, the hojizon to the northwest was of a blood-red color, while faint, white streamers sprang up in rapid succession, increasing in numbers, and rising from the west, north, and northeast points. They were all directed toward the zenith, and the exterior ones bending inwards gave to the whole configu- ration a dome- like shape. They then all vanished, and 297 1879. February. .J"... IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I 1h "^ 140 lis i^ 2.0 1.8 :.25 1.4 1.6 —.— 11= = ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 7a «> ^ 298 Auroras. Fibmaiy. "^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ *^ "^G 3lowly from a wider extent of hori- zon. At 8.30, new and very bright streamers advanced toward the zenith from all directions. At 8.45, they all gathered about the zenith and formed a perfect corona. They then all seemed to move toward the north, as new ones arose from the south. Mauch watched the prog- ress of these streamers while passing over some stars, and assigned to them a motion of between six and seven seconds to a degree. They moved from west to east. As the corona opened and moved toward the north, a beauti- ful curtain was formed, its color being very intense and bright, between yellow and white. This was the general color of all the streamers except those in the northwest against the deep-red sky, which seemed to take that color. At 9.30, another corona wad formed by new streamers coming from every direction of the compass. This sepa- rated like the first one, moving toward the north and form- ing, before it vanished, a similar curtain.- This latter dis- play was much more brilliant than trie first. At 9.40, the red part of the horizon inclined more toward the north and northeast. The auroral display lasted all night, and continued, with slight interruptions, throughout the 5th. The red color of the sky moved around during the night, was finally seen in the east, and disappeared in the south- east before twilight. "At 3.30 p. liu, I observed," says Mauch in his ■>:3#*r"' Fefcraar Auroras. " . ^ \m\ ones began to rise slowJy from a wider extent of hori- zon. At 8.30, new and very bright streamers advanced toward the zenith from all directions. At 8.45, they all gathered about the zenith and formed a perfect corona. They then ^\ F^^rn^ui «, m^vo toward the north, n? new on«M? aroH© from thy souih. Maach watched the prog- ress of these streamers while passing over some stars, and assigned to them a motion of between six and seven seconds to a degree. They moved from west to east. As the corona opened and moved toward the north, a beauti- ful curtain was formed, its color being very intense and bright, between yellow and white. This was the general mim- of ftis th» streamers except those in the northwest, «^'«ui»t rh*^ deep-red skv. •;* hie': -^ ■ - -/^l-ttrtk. > . .■- '' \' ■ ■ ■■ t. coming from e\cry direction of the compass, iim m^n- rated like the fir^t one, moving toward Ihc r-Ttli and form- ing, before it vanished, a similar curtain.^ This latter dis- play was much more brilliant than the first. At 9.40, the red pan of the horizon inclined • more toward the north and northeast. The auroral display lasted .lii night, and cuntiDucd, Viith .-light interruptions, throughout the oth. The red color of Ihe aky moved around dur in. ^he liiirht, was finally se-n in the east, and disappeared iii the south- east before twilio-ht. "At 380 p. m., I observed," mys Manch in his a*--f.xj;i'Js«:j&^*&e«mifllR» MtMMiMiMMHMWM ^^f^: yi ■HI>iI>I.IHMIW.)K«JUi|(U!llWiiI:^ l^ .»^Ju^ l I^W l J, l ^^li^w ! l.||Hll.,n ll| |M ^ j ' J, ■! -^ ^ L! P f■ ' ^ ^ ^-i ^ Jn^ ^.Tr' Auroras. 299 journal, "on the northeast, east, and southeast horizon, 18^9. . Fekmery. beams of luminous clouds. They soon accumulated and formed an irregular arch due east, which slowly moved, as if driven, in a southerly direction. At 4 p. m., a new arch extended from nearly due east to nearly due south. At 4.10 p. m., three distinct arches, one above the other, were formed slowly in the southeast and south, exhibiting a very brilliant display, though fading very soon away. Those to the south were of an intense straw-color, and formed a brilliant spectacle. At 4.30 p. m., more streamers were coming up from the southeast and south. In the former direction they formed nearly the shape of an Qgg, very regular and of the greatest brilliancy. At 4.40, they seemed to move around to the south; no more coming up in the northeast. I might say they follow the twilight, showing their brilliancy right alongside, as if they would ask which one we liked best." Hermann Siemens, in his journal, speaking of the rays combining as it were to form a sort of screen or scroll or curtain, and moving until they disappeared only to be followed by others, says: "It was as if a regiment of troops retreated before an enemy closing in upon them." A party went again to the cape and reported that there was young ice over the open water, and that toward the western side a water-cloud was visible. The Esqui- maux in their wanderings over the land found the tracks 300 Febrnarjr. Observing Under Difficulties. of a wolf, only a few days old. This was very encourag- ing news to the sportsmen. On the 7th, the water had risen around the vessel to the depth of 18 inches above the surface of the ice. The tides kept open the cracks about the iceberg. So muQh snow had drifted over the ice near the berg as to make it too heavy to be raised by the tide. Thus the ice was greatly increased in thickness; a portion of the water freezing and not running back on the fall of the tide. The following extracts are from Mauch's journal: "Between 5 and 6 p. m.,J[ assisted Mr. Bryan in taking some altitudes of Jupiter, but then not much could be done as the temperature ranged too low ( — 30°). It was a hard trial for both of us. The nose suffers more than anything else. The fingers also feel the effects, especially the points, as the nails that cover them produce a fearful sensation." At 5.30 p. m., on the 8th, "I observed a very bright luminous arch of streamers somewhat extending from the northeastern horizon to the southwestern. When I first saw it, it was a little to the northwest of the zenith, but the whole arch seemed to move, and at 6.30, it just passed the zenith, and then had a position southeast of it, where it gradually broke up. Its southwestern extremity just touched the twilight curve, where it vanished. At 6.30, the usual haziness of the sky, after the occurrences of these, was noticed." &' WSjMMSB^ Fog at Lookout Mountain. 301 Mauch paid a visit to Hall's grave and found that it »8Ta. was undisturbed. Everything about it was in good order, *'**"'"'■''• just as it had been left in the autumn. On the 10th, while on one of those short excursions, that were now frequently made by the members of the expedition, he visited Lookout Mountain, and, from its summit, witnessed a remarkably rapid change in the atmosphere, which he thus describes ; "I had for a short time a very extensive view over the straits where the open water appeared as a dark black spot on a white field. My joy and pleasure did not, however, last long, as fifteen minutes only sufficed to cover all by a most impenetrable fog— a phenomenon which I never observed before in winter. I was hardly able to see twenty paces to the west and northwest, though toward the south it remained free for a considerable time. There, above the new ice of the bay, a most beautiful fog-stratum, intensely white, was hanging, and continually changing its height." Divine service was held, as usual, in the lower cabin, at 12 o'clock on the 11th. On the 12th, the Esquimaux went to the open water and saw two seals, but were unable to get them because they were beyond the reach of their rifles. The ship's company was much in need of oil for their lamps, all their original supply together with that taken from the seals killed during the winter, having i 802 Amusements. Fifrlar,. ^«^° consumed. They were at this time using kerosene oil, and, the supply of that not being large, strict economy had to be practiced. It was therefore important that seals should be killed, and the natives, each day, on returning from their hunt, were closely interrogated as to their success. On the morning of the 13th, southwesterly breezes brought the temperature up to within six or seven degrees of the zero point. The whole crew were out on the ice, taking advantage of the fine weather, enjoying themselves in various ways, some at .target-shooting and others in dif- ferent games. The ice about the vessel presented a gay and lively scene. Parties were out hunting all day. Joe fired at a seal, but lost it in the ice. On the 15th, beauti- ful crimson clouds were seen in the south, reflecting some of their colors to others in the east and northeast. On the 17th, a remarkable fall of the barometer was observed. During one hour it fell .09 of an inch. Erom 8.30 a. m. to 4.30 p. m., the fall amounted to .481 of an inch. From midnight to midnight the entire fall was 1.16 inches— from 30.098 inches to 28.938. At 2 a. m. of the 18th, with the fall of the barometer and rise of the thermometer, came, as usual, a southwesterly gale, increas- ing in fury and accompanied by a heavy snow-drift. The greatest velocity observed was 58 miles per hour. Early in the morning the thermometer reached its greatest Typical Storms, 303 height, at + 8° F. ; a great change siuce the 16th, when 1879. Febraurjr. the mercury wa8 frozen. The efl'ect of the wind was noted in the tidal observations. For twelve consecu- tive hours the height of the water was about the same, the difference between high and low water being but httle more than one foot. The barometer began to rise as rap- idly almost as it had fallen. The gale continued blowing in heavy gusts until dayhght of the 19th, when the wind shifted to the west and northwest. The thermometer fell rapidly, while the barometer remained stationary. A gale from the northeast, commencing at noon (a light snow having fallen since 10 a. m.), blew with great force, reaching a velocity of 57 miles per hour. Soon after midnight it lulled for a short period. At 8 a. m. of the 20th, it was howling through the rigging, making a fearful noise. All the snow that had been carried northward by the southwest gale was re- turned with interest. The air was filled as high as the top of the masts, and so thickly that objects more than ten feet off could not be seen. The banks alongside the vessel were much increased. At 3.40 p. m., the storm had died away, a scarcely perceptible breeze blowing. The straits, which had been completely filled with ice by the south- east gale, were cleared out, and a large body of open water could be seen not more than three miles from the ship. ^s I i c * 304 1879. Febmary, Paraselenae. The preceding account of the two storms is typical • the number of storms of such a character recorded in the journals is very large. Early on the morning of the 2l8t. Mauch was called by Hermann Siemens tc observe some very beautiful par- aselene. The moon, a little west of the meridian, was not quite full. Mauch made the following sketch at the time ; the thermometer was 30° below zero. MOCK-MOON BZIIIU. I-UI8M. COIiOIIS OlilRI U)!(o etnnjMB CLouur CJIIPI LOMQ BTItEAKS It was so hght at midday that no stars could be seen. Dr. Bessela now addressed the following communica- tion to Captain Budington : ra Projected Jijxpeditiona, " WlNTEll-QUARxERS, (^'Latitude 81° 38' north, longitude 61° 44' west,) ^'February 21, 18Y2. "Sib: As with the return of the sun the further operations of the expedition must be begun, and as, in regard to all those, a consultation between us should take place, I forward herewith to vou the sketch of a plan by means of which, as I think, we may best fulfill the mission upon which wq are sent. ** Very respectfully, "Emil Bbsselb. "Oaptain S. 0. Bddington, *' United States Steamer Polaris." SKETCH OF A PLAN OF OPERATIONS. "As matters stand now, there are two ways of accomplishing the object of the expedition: either by boats and the vessel herself, or, as at first proposed, by sledges. Let us now consider both ways, and the plan of opera- tions for each that seems to offer the most advantages. "The settinir out of a boat party will, of course, de- pend entirely upon the area of open water and the improb- ability of new ice being formed that would interfere with its navigation. Perhaps the party could start during the last of March or in the beginning of April — that is to be seen — if the vessel does not break out before that time, 20 806 1879. 506 Projected Expeditions. ^ISJ^rj. ""^^^^^ "^^y occur at any time, as our anchorage does not give us much protection. "If the journey -jward the north should be made by means of a boat, considerable time must elapse before it can be safely begun, and the question arises how to em- ploy that time to the best advantage. "As the object of the expedition is a geographical one, and as geography consists not merely in laying down a coast-line, as many may think, but requh-es much more than that; a sledge-party should be formed, provisioned for twenty days, to penetrate into the interior of the country, to discover if % consists o^ an ice-plateau, as is supposed by some, but which does not seem probable, or, in a word, to investigate its configuration. This would also give an opportunity for answering some important questions contained in the instructions. "Another party could, at the same time, go to Cape Constitution, to determine astronomically the position c^ Morton's farthest point, which, in regard to longitude, ought to be verified. Besides that, these points of the coast-line should be connected with the survey of our anchorage. "Regarding the matter of verifying positions, it will also be very desirable to send a party to Grinnell Land, the coast-line of which, although changed a good deal by Dr. Hayes, does not seem to be correct, and ought to be Projected Expeditions. 307 y it "resurveyed. Besides that the party could, perhaps, find 18 7a. .„ , ^ , . February* out II the land contained any glaciers, as Dr. Hayes stated. "There is no doubt that it would be considered as a very valuable geographical discovery to determine how far Grinnell Land extends from east to west, which might be done by ascending some of the high mountains near its coast. It must be confessed that this party woulu be subject to many difficulties and much risk, even if open water did not impede their progress, because the ice is rough and hummocky, and liable at any moment to go adrift. " (As matters stand since the day before yesterday, it would be impossible to cross the strait. February 21, 1872.) "It is not impossible that the ice in the southern part of the straits will be better for traveling purposes, so that the Cape Constitution party might cross with compar- atively little difficulty; but if you take into consideration how much trouble it cost Dr. Hayes who crossed the strait twice, how it enervated his party, it seems better to give up this plan, especially because next summer there would be very likely a more convenient way of reaching Grin- nell Land. "As it has been concerted, the Polaris will leave at her anchorage a depot of provisions and a boat. Should Mi I -' \ h > •M % ■ 308 Projected Expeditions. Febraa;^. "^^® ^^^^^^ ^^ Compelled to leave her anchorage before the sledge parties return, then the party arriving first at Po- laris Bay should wait for the other, and upon its arrival proceed to Newman's Bay (the only harbor we know of toward the north), in the most expeditious manner. By all means it would be a good plan, if the vessel breaks out before the return of the sledge parties, to leave also a boat with a patent log and provisions at Newman's Bay, be- cause the boat left at Polaris Bay would be used to carry the united sledge parties, and there should be another to fall back upon, in case of accident. "If the vessel should drift south during the absence of the parties, then documents of the further route they intend to take will be found a few feet to the west of the present site of the observatory. The spot may be known by the iron bar which now holds the pend- ulum-case. "Let us return, after this digression, to consider a plan for the operations of a boat party toward the north. One of the smaller boats should be taken, with as many provisions as possible, the necessary instruments, and small stores. The party should follow up the eastern side of the strait, surveying the land and making such investi- gations in hydrography, in regard to currents, sea-atmos- phere, and soundings, as may be made without too much delay. Projected Expeditions. 809 "As near each full degree of latitude as possible IS^a. Fetoruarf. the party will build a cairn, and deposit a record of its proceedings, in order that the vessel, if necessary, may know where to search for it. "Should we, notwithstanding the favorable prospect we now have, be compelled to use sledges on the jour- ney toward the north, then we should start as soon as possible, by all means by the middle of March, because it is not probable that then the temperature will be much lower than it is now, although we might have more gales. "It cannot be denied that it is a great advantage to use dogs for draught, provided suflacient game can be pro- cured on the way for their food, but as we are compelled to travel over a poor country and make large distances the dogs will prove hinderances rather than help. We must, then, as the English expeditions have done, almost exclu- sively use men for draught. Two dog-sledges should be taken, loaded with four small sleds, the provisions belong- ing to them, and besides provisions for the whole party for thirty days. Should the two sledges meet with many difficulties in advancing, which will very likely be the case, then they will establish, at places they may find favorable, small depots of provisions for their return, stay as long as possible with their small sleds, and return when pirp.iimstnnPAs rfinm'rA if TK^p fTi« orvmU ^Ar^Ac ^:ii *■ ' ill! ts > 310 Projected F^xmditions. .wlllty. "^" ^«^^^d ^itli the undiminished provisions, and each man drag his own sled, a total weight of two hundred pounds. " By no means can the small sleds expect to return by the same way over the ice, because at that time it will be broken up, and the vessel herself under way for a high latitude. , "As has been mentioned in the case of the boat party, the sledge party will also build cairns and deposit records of their proceedings. " Having arrived on their return at a place from which they are unable to travel any farther south, they will keep up a continued watch and signalize by flags and smoke, while the vessel fires a gun several times a day. " Now, a few remarks upon the operations of the vessel. It would undoubtedly be best to use as little as possible of our coal, and to proceed north by sail. If it is possible for the vessel to advance along the coast of Grin- nell Land it would be profitable to do so, on account of the running survey that could be made, as there certainly will be some one on board who can conduct a work of this kind. " The determination of the local attraction of the compass before the vessel starts should not be neglected as heretofore, because without this an able survey cannot be made. Washington's Birth-Day. 311 "It should be considered as a matter of the highest 1879. Febraarjr, importance to take deep-sea soundings, or soundings in general, whenever practicable ; for, except those made by John Ross in 1818, there are but a few taken by Ingle- field and two by Kane. If the time will not allow of more, one sounding a day would be valuable and should be taken. " If the water is not very deep, one of the smaller dredges should be used to procure a larger number of specimens than can be obtained by the apparatus of Brooks. "Emil Bess els. " Winter-quarters, latitude 81° 38' north, longitude 61° 44' west. February 10, 1872." It was intended to celebrate Washington's birthday by a dinner, but the gale blew so fiercely that it was im- possible to make the galley-stove draw. The meal was cooked upon the small stoves, and each mess had what it chose. In the cabin musk-ox meat and clam-chowder were the favorite dishes. The captain broke open a box of Koesysbacher wine and gave one half dozen bottles to the men forward and the remaining half dozen to the cabin mess. Early on the 28d, the temperature was below the freezing point of mercury. For two nights in succession two diuCFCut; men, who wcro making tidal observations, 312 Looking for the Sun. 4 «! A it,' I r.»™*,. ^«'-« s'"«ed by a strange sound near the observatory The dogs, which lay near the vessel, were also much excited when they heard it, and ran in that direc- tion, returning after some time looking as if they had given chase to some animal. This aroused some of the men, who, on the 25th, set out on a grand hunt to dis- cover, if possible, the cause of these noises. Another party went to Observatory Bluff to cal^h a gUmpse of the Bun, as they were told it would be near enough the hori- zon to be seen from such a height. So few were left on the ship that no Diving service was held. The hunting parties were as usual unsuccessful. They tramped over miles of the desolate country without seeing any signs of animal Ufe. Low, thick stratus clouds hung about the horizon so that the sun was not seen. Several small cirro-cumulus clouds near the zenith were colored with deep orange and crimson hues, while the tops of the momitains near Lady FrankUn Bay were of a yellowish- white color, aa if illuminated by the direct rays of the sun. On the 27th, an unusually low tide, the effect of a strong northeast wind, caused the vessel to heel over in a very uncomfortable position. Without assistance it was impossible to walk across the deck. When the tide rose again the water stood two feet above the ice alongside the ship. The Sun Appears. 318 The morninff of the 28th, was bright and clear, and 1^7 ft, ° ' o Fetornary. there was a promise that the sun would he seen after its absence of one hundred and thirty-two days. At 11 a. m., all hands were out watching the steadily increasing light about the southern horizon. Some were perched on the foretop, and others on the top of Providence Berg, while groups at the observatory and on the floe were eagerly discussing the approaching spectacle. A few small clouds over the tops of the mountains were brilliant with the light of the sun, and were takon by some for the sun itself. At 11.55, a small portion of the sun's upper limb was seen through a gorge in the mountain, but it soon disappeared. At 12.15, the whole orb suddenly appeared from behind Cape Tyson, and rolled in full glory over the southern fiord. Cheer after cheer went up from the joyful com- pany, with ceaseless echoings. The floe seemed ahve with young school-boys, out for a short recess. The men leaped and jumped about, and tried in vain to ex- press their full joy. Cries of "0! how warm it is!" "He has not forgotten us," &c., went up on all sides. The carpenter was particularly happy, and went around with a bottle of wine, which he had saved from Wash- ington's birthday, calling upon each one to take a drink with him. The sun continued above the horizon until 2 p. m. At that time, however, it appeared as a red ball hansrinsr over the straits to the southwest. 314 Sledge Operations. s-F Fi*™*;^. ' ''""'" "^ '''"« ^"^ giv-en to each man, and Dr. Bessels distnbated one hundred oigarettes among the men forward. Joe, who had been out hunting, reported that he had seen m the open water three dovekies. He said they were the young of last year, and that it was well known among the Esquimaux that this species of bird spent their first winter in the Arctic regions. To the communication presented by Dr. Bessels on the 21st, Captain Budington replied as follows: "Thank-God Harbob, "February 29, 1872. "Sib: I have carefully examined the contents of your communication, dated Thank-God Harbor, February 10, 1872; and your suggestions as to an early trip t» Cape Constitution and the inland meet with my entire approval Anything to the furtherance of science which can be done before the starting of the final expedition to the north in pursuit of the principal object of this expedition, I would decidedly advise you to undertake, and you may be assured that all possible aid on my part shall be given to you and your undertaking. The expedition to the north will, ,n all probability, proceed by the aid of boats; and It IS my decided intention, in such a ease, to take com- mand of the boat party. To come to any conclusion as yet m regard to the details of this boat journey and the Heavy Snow Storm. 915 "proceedings of the ship, appears to be useless, inasmuch I'^'^a. as circumstances will generally govern our actions. "Very respectfully, yours, "8. 0. BUDINGTON, " Commanding United States Steamer Polaris. "To Dr. Emil Bessels, " Chief of the Scientific Party ^' of the North Polar Expedition." The carpenter was engaged in putting a window in the roof of the observatory. He could not have selected a more unfavorable time; the wind was blowing with great violence from the northeast, and the usual snow drift was not wanting. Mr. Bryan, and Mauch, who were on watch at the observatory, worked for two hours to clear the snow out that had drifted in through the hole the carpenter was making for the window. To add to their disappointment, the window was not put in after all, some- thing occurring that rendered the postponement neces- sary. The wind was blowing so fiercely that the observ- ers determined to remain at the observatory during their entire watch, instead of going to the vessel for their dinner at 3 p. m., as was their custom. They did not, however, remain without something to eat, as Joe brought some din- ner over to Mr. Bryan. Joe also brought a letter fi-om Mr. Meyer, stating that Dr. Bessels was suffering so much ^^ (^oal used during February. TlSllrj, ^'^^ ^'' "y«« *^^* ^« ^<>«Jd be unable to take his watch. It was proposed that Mr. Meyer should make the observa- tions >om 7 p. m. till 7 a. m. the next morning, and then Bryan and Mauch should come on watch. The snow had drifted so much about the vessel that the bank which was 16 feet distant was 10 feet high and very wide at its base. The highest temperature recorded during February was -0^7 F.; the lowest, ^3^5 F.; while the mean was about ^2r.3 F. These figures are made up from the regular meteorological journal. The coal used during the month of February was, in the — Poimds. ± orecastle ^ j 943 ^^^^° 1,'738 ^^"^y 2,487 Observatory j ^qo '^«*a^ .'-.. 7,660 This was an increase over the previous mouth of 398 pounds. v-m I IS r i& ill U CHAPTER XIV. The heavy gale from the N. E. continued during the Ist and 2d, at times attaining a velocity of 50 miles per hour. The wind had blown so fiercely ou the night of February 29th, that fears were entertained lest the vessel should get adrift. Captain Budington remained on deck until 1 a. m., anxiously watching for any sign of movement, and all were momentarily expecting the cry of "all hands!" From this time light winds and fair weather were ex- perienced until the 7th and 8th, when a heavy N. E. gale set in. On the 10th it attained a velocity of 36 miles per hour. During the 11th the wind was variable. In the afternoon a very romarkable change was observed. It blew from S. E., then E., then N. W., then W., and then settled down to a gale from the N. E., reaching on the 1 2th a velocity of 50 miles. After this, light winds and calms prevailed up to the 1879. march. ,1 320 1873. march. The Winds. •¥: 20th ; then again for over two days a very strong gale blew from the N. E., with drifting snow. The anemome- ter, for eleven consecutive hou.s, recorded a velocity of 40 miles per hour. The effect of the wind upon the temperature was very remarkable during the month. Northeast and east winds always lowered it, while southwest and northwest winds raised it. Mercury was frozen during the 2d, and the first part of the 3d. On the 4th, mercury was frozen from midnight until the southwest breezes set in during the afternoon. On the 6th, during the prevalence of the southwest winds of the early part of the day, snow fell. From 8 a. m. till 1 p. m., a N. W. wind brought thick fog, the ther- mometer standing at -20°. Then a gale set in from the N. E., which cleared away the fog, brought snow-drift, and lowered the temperature ten degrees. As it increased in violence the mercury fell until finally it was frozen; it continued frozen until 10 p. m. of the 9th. The gale abated on the 8th, but the coldest weather occurred on the 9th. The spirit- theraiometer read at one time — 53°.9 F.; as it had a correction 5°.4, the true temperature was considered to be -48°.5 F. This was the lowest observed by the expedition. The wind varied in direction and force in places quite near each other. On the 13th, a party at Cape Lupton '■■} Effect of the Sun. experienced a very strong S. W. gale, while it was per- fectly calm at the ship. On the 23d, a heavy snow-drift was seen moving rapidly down the straits under the force of a strong northeast wind, while near the vessel only light airs were stirring. On the 3d, the solar radiation thermometers were placed in position. On the 15th, the black bulb in vacuo read at noon +26°, while the snow on the ship's side was melting. On the 24th, the black bulb in vacuo rv-:id +51°.9, the one free +0°.4, while the temperature of the air was — 14°.4. The gales of wind were sufficiently frequent and strong to keep the ice in constant motion. A southwest gale covered the straits with the rough pack, while north- easterly winds cleared the ice out, and left large expanses of open water reaching sometimes quite near the ship. On the 12th, the wind was so strong that it was impossible to keep any fire in the galley-stove. When- ever fire was kindled the smoke was blown down the pipe, and filled the passage-way, making it impossible for the cook to do his work. This trouble was caused by N. E. gales, and it seemed impossible to remedy it. The same day, stones as large as an egg were found on the ice twenty paces from the shore, where they had been trans- ported by the wind. On account of the continued motion of the Polaris, the cradle of ice in which she lay constantly 321 1879. niarcli. r -i I; I; il ' '! f.« " 21 ^ ^ 322 1879. march. \ Strain on the Vessel ill increased in thickness by additions to its surface. Thus the ship was lifted up bodily, so that on the 1st, the 6-foot mark was visible above the ice; the bow was lifted more than the stem. The higher she was hfted the greater was her inclination at low tide. It was found necessary to fasten cleats fore and aft upon the cabin and on other decks. lu the lower cabin, the officers were compelled to stand at their meals, and even that was attended with difficulty. During all this time the strain on the vessel was very great, causing the timbers to complain. The sounds were so loud that the people were kept awake notwithstanding their familiarity with them. The result of this was that the ship was very severely strained; even the beam ends, and joints of the frame, opened. On the 26th, the engineers discovered that the whole engine had shifted bodily about three inches toward the port side of the vessel. The light increased rapidly. On the 1st, the window in the observatory was found useful, no artificial light being needed for six hours. The weather was almost always more or less cloudy. Mauch mentions in his journal that on examina- tion of the meteorological record he found that there had only been one day, the 25th of November, during which there were no clouds. The proverbial clear sky of the Twilight at Midnight. 823 Arctic regions was not seen, owing, perhaps, to the 1873. proximity of open water. The cloudy weather caused the greatest inconvenience to Mr. Bryan in his transit-work. The object of that work was to obtain as many moon- culminations as possible. When it is stated that, during four lunations, twelve series of observations only were secured, some idea of the amount of cloudy weather can be formed. On the 10th, twilight was more brilliant at midnight than it had been at noon during the month of December. Captain Budington, in his journal of the 13th, says: "At 8.15 a. m., a.s the sun was just coming up from behind the mountains in the southeast, we noticed one of the most beautiful phenomena. The glorious orb, unri- valed in its magnificence, exhibited an imperfect halo of about 22° radius. The sky was clear, and the lower at- mosphere somewhat misty. Both sides of the halo ex- hibited very distinct spectrum colors. They seemed to rest upon the ground. The one to the left-hand side had for its base the plain, and as background the hills that surround our harbor toward the east, not more than two miles distant; the other rested on the side near the beach. The red color in the spectrum was inside, and the other color? followed in their usual succession. The phenomenon continued the entire morning. At 1 p. m., the balo seemed to be more perfect, and the upper part was more illuminated. ■»i r i. k % \}H , ^ vtsS»(h*'mBN'iHfW*-Wi.,i- •ill 324 1879. fliarcta. li A Photograph. "At the same time minute ice-crystals began to fall. The sky then cleared up entirely, and the atmosphere became extremely pure. During the rest of the day, the sun shone very brightly until 5 p. m. It has been undoubt- edly the most beautiful day that we have spent in the Arctic regions since making winter-quarters. It compen- sates us materially for the dreary tediousness of the winter. For several successive hours an entire calm existed. The temperature, compared with that of a few days ago, was pretty high, ranging about -21° F. The opposite coast was clearly visible, and the straits were again partially covered with new ice. Most of the men were out enjoy- ing themselves on the ice ; some, however, preferred a long tramp to the north, a direction which seems to be a favorite one with them." The main-deck awning was taken off on the 15th, to give light to the cabin. Its removal had been delayed in order to allow Dr. Bessels to take a' photograph of the ship in her winter rig. A very good negative was ob- tained from a position near the observatory. Dr. Bessels ihen took it to the ship and washed it, but it was a fatal operation, as the whole picture peeled off. He attributed the accident to the freezing of the film while carrying the negative to the vessel. On the 18th, the quarter-deck awning and tho fore- castle awning were removed. The binnacles were re- Seals. 325 placed in the pilot-house. When all this had been 187a. ■^ march. done the men took the little howitzer upon the ice, where they amused themselves by firing balls at an ice- berg. On the 24th, the twilight was so bright that common print could be read at midnight. The effect of the light and heat was observable in the vegetable growth, for on the 13th Mr. Schumann brought to the observatory a sprig of Salix arctica, the buds of which were almost bursting. The Esquimaux were repaid for their labors in hunt- ing by an occasional sight of seals, and on the 18th, Hans shot an ook-gook; he was not, however, able to secure it. Captain Budington, in his journal of the 23d, says: "Hans, who has been out to the open water in pursuit of seals, returned towards noon, reporting that he had ob- tained one of the animals. He took a sled and a team of dogs with which to transport it to the ship, and soon came back with his trophy, which, to our greatest surprise, proved to be a Phoca foetlda, a very rare species. Its skin is of a dark grayish-black color, and entirely covered with white concentric rings. The doctor prepared the seal for the Smithsonian Institution. Upon dissection it was found to contain a foetus, weighing seven and a half pounds, and covered with hair of a silver-gray color. Hans deserves much credit for his perseverance in catch- ing the seal. Watching at a hole made in new ice of 326 Land and Water Animals. ...,.2: "»''»"' *•■«« inches thickness, he at last caught sight of the animal, and fired at it. The water, however, swept it under the ,. e, and he was compelled to take off his coat and with his arm reaching into the water, he felt witli the spear all around under the ice whore the seal mi.ht have floated to. Three holes he was forced to make in the ice before he found the animal and properly secured It. Aobody, I believe, was happier to-day than Hans. lor dunng the past four weeks it was rather hard for him to go out hunting daily, and return disappointed." The next day Hans shot another seal, and came to the ship to procure a sled. He carried also his kyak out to the open water to aid him in obtaining it, but before he reached the place of attack the animal had disappeared. On the 8th, the Esquimaux hunting on the land saw a rabbit, or Arctic hare. The next day many small tracks were found on the snow, which, after considerable discus- sion, were pronounced to be those of alittle Arctic animal ealled the "lemming." This occasioned considerable sur- pnse, since the lemming was not known to exist on the western coast of Greenland. On the 14th, Dr. Bessels reported that he had seen a snow-bird in the ravine back of the observatory. On the 16th, Messrs. Chester and Bryan, while taking a walk on the ice, saw a gull flying toward the north. On the 22d, William Nindemann and Gustavus Lind- Shrimps. qvist went to examine a steel-trap set by them a few days before. They were much gratified to find that the leg of a very fine white fox was firmly held by the trap. The poor animal had firozen to death. They offered it, as they did everything they obtained, to Dr. Bessels for a specimen; but on account of the condition of the leg he was obliged to decline it. Many attempts had been made to obtain some ani- mal life from the water through the tide-hole, but they had been unsuccessful, if the shrimps be excepted with which the water was fairly alive. Some of the seamen proposed attempting to use them as food. They lowered a piece of pork into the fire-hole, and after a few moments they pulled it up, covered with the little creatures, of which the largest were not more than an inch and a half long; they varied in length some being almost too small to be seen. The water was seventy-two feet deep, and seemed to be alive with them. In a little while the seamen obtained a large pot-full. They were cooked for lunch, but, perhaps for want of skill, they did not make a palatable dish. On the 24th, two of the men reported that they had seen two white gulls. On the 25th, Captain Budington, while taking a walk to Cape Lupton for the purpose of examining the ice, saw two ptarmigans, which he sup- posed were the birds seen the day before by the men and 327 1879. Marcb. 'k; .1, i'.t "II •f 328 Ferocity of the Dogs. I «!'*•. ""■^'"''^n fo' gulls. The same morning Robert Krnger and Fred. Aunting reported seeing two ptarmigans on an iceberg and firing at one without success. It was con- cluded that they were the same birds that had been seen by Captain Budington. On the 24th, one of the men, in a tramp over the land found among some moss on a stone, two caterpillars, which he brought to Dr. Bessels for his collection. Mauch's journal of the 3d says: "To-day I have t« announce a sad loss. Our yellow Esquimaux bitch 'Smarty is no more. The poor a.imal had young ones yesterday, some of which were devoured by the other dogs a. soon as they were bom. About 9 a. m., one of the men found the dog on deck and other dogs tearing ber to peices, and swallowing her partly alive. He chased the dogs all outside, and gave ' Smarty ' a nice place in a corner, where ,,he soon was stiff. Indeed, the voracious- ness of these Esquimaux dogs is beyond all hmit. Not satisfied with her young ones, they tried to eat her up too, just because the poor animal in her weakness could not defead herself. We can soon tell what good these dogs will do us." On the 6th, there were twenty-five dogs in fine con- dition for sledge travel. Many of the others also could be used, so that there were enough to equip two or three parties for explorations overland. On the 12th, and for Preparations for Sledge-Journeys. 329 March. a few days previous, several of the dogs were troubled JJf^!.?* with fits. The fire-hole had been encroached upon so much by snow-drifts and by the accumulation of ice around it — ^hourly removed from its surface io keep it open — that the labor of the tidal observers was very much increased. A new fire-hole was cut on the 4th, about eighty feet from the vessel, clear of the snow-drift. The thickness of the ice was found to be 4 feet and 1 inch. , Dr. Bessels suffered at times considerably from his eyes, so that he was unable to take his regular watch at the observatory. He had already begun to prepare for one of the sledge-journeys which he contemplated making before it was time to use the boats. It was conceded that, if possible, the boats should be used for northern ex- ploration. The men were more familiar with boats, more could be carried in them, and under favorable circum- stances a longer journey could be made. The open water seen during the winter was encouraging, and led to the expectation that when summer began the straits would be sufficiently free to admit of boat-navigation. Captain Budington proposed to do his utmost to attain a high lati- tude in boats. It was, however, very well understood that they could hardly be expected to start before June. In the mean time there was the sledding season of nearly three months for that kind of work, by which the success I I 330 Frozen Kerosene Oil. 4 I I «.*'•. "^ "'« EnglM' Fmnklin Relief Expeditions was attained Dr. Be88el8, to whom the direction of siedge-journeys in the event of Hall's death, was expressly given by Mr Bobeson, exerted himself to employ this means to the best advantage. I„ his plan of operations he proposed to fit out at least three parties. All were very mueh rejoiced at th>s exhibition of zeal and activity. On the 22d he was prevented from starting by the threatening indications of the barometer. Maueh's journal of the 8th says : "I saw for the first time to-day frozen kerosene oil. The crew were digging out a barrel on shore from under the snow, and they tapped It on the spot. I immediately concluded, being just in the mood to make some experiments, to determine the freezmg-point of kerosene oil. I filled the basin which stands m the observatory with the oil. introduced one of our best spirit-thermometers into it, and watched the temperature until the oil began to coagulate or get solid. This point I found to be -.32°.5 F. I exposed it et.ll longer, expecting to be able to get a hard cake, but m vam; the temperature fell as low as -W during the time. The consistency of the oil, when thus frozen, may be compared with melting wax. It has a milk-like, trans- lucent color, and retains impressions with the finger very easily. It seems not to crystalize, for I was not able t» .detect any crystal in it, even under a microscope." Vegetable Fossila. During one of his hunting expeditions, Joe rode down to the southward and westward, and saw what was supposed to he a large bay, to which was afterward given the name of "Petermann's Fiord." The 16th was a beautiful day; all hands enjoyed it. On the ice near the ship the four Esquimaux children were playing very happily. Mr. Meyer was at Capo Lupton surveying; Mr. Schumann was on the ice sketch- ing the vessel; Mr. Odell was engaged in repairing the snow steps that led up to the gangway — building marble steps, as he called them; and Fred. Auntingwas flying what he called a North Pole kite, with a small flag attached. On the 17th, Jamka and Nindermann found upon Offley Island some very valuable fossils. They were the only vegetable fossils that had been discovered by the expedition, and were very fine specimens. They looked like petrified pieces of sugar-cane or bamboo. All the specimens that were collected, upon their return to the vessel, were at once given to Dr. Bessels for preservation. As the days lengthened, the people took more exercise, and the time between meals began to seem long. To remedy this, on the 20th, the three meals were restored, and the hours prescribed were, 7.30 a. m., 11.30 a. m., 5.30 p. m. During part of the 20th, the men were employed in making small canvas bags for use on the boat journey. It is unnecessary "^o enter into the details of the many ex- 331 1879. IBurcli* » It M I if* ••t; !M I Ij Mh i m tt» mi '»*it. v iim mm jm If 3«2 1879. Marcli. Sledge Journey South. cursion partioa; none of thorn wore without interest, but nothing new waa discovered. At 7 a. m. of the 27th, Dr. Bessels. accompanied by Mr. Bryan and Joe, with a team of fourteen dogs equipped and provisioned for fourteen days, set out on a sledge journey to Cape Constitution to connect Kane's survey with Thank-God Harbor. At 1 p. m.. a mes- sage was received from them saying that thny had for- gotten the India-rubber camp-blankets, and roquestino- that they be sent. This was written on a piece of wood and sent by a dog, who carried it on his neck. It was brought to Captain Budington by one of the men on the dog's arrival. The blankets were sent by Hans and another man. who found the party occupying a snow- house on Offley Island. The Arctic day was so far advanced that no artificial light was needed in the cabin, even at midnight. On the 29th, the fog was so thick that the observa- tory could not be seen from the ship. The thermometer was —13°, and many ice-crystals were deposited. On the 30th, Peter Johnson saw a hare on the plain east of the observatory. The men were eager to kill it and at 4 a. m. of the 31st, one of them started in pursuit' returning with it at breakfast-time. He had found the tracks in the fresh snow, and was soon able to overtake it. The hare was not afraid, but stood on its hind legs and Ptarmigans, looked at its enomy with curiosity. In tho course of the forenoon the nion brought to tho ship eight ptarmigans, killed on tho plain southeast of tho observatory. The highest temperature during tho month was +4°; the lowest, — 48°.5 ; while the mean was about — 23°. 2. The coal used during the month was 7,891 pounds, distributed as follows : Pouuda. Cabin 1,892 Forecastle 1,973 Galley 2,665 Observatory 1, 361 This Tvas aii increase of 291 pounds over the amount consumed during the month of February. 333 1879. march. f 4 'h M i;^' !, M '1 i , m if ■ 1^ :xv i ■V »4 ,«i^ 1 I I CHAPTER XV. On the Ist of April, -Captain Budington began to make arrangements for his share of the spring work. He decided that he would send out two boats as soon as the condition of the ice rendered it advisable, and had the two smaller whale-boats brought from the shore, and placed on the ice near the ship, that they might be thoroughly fitted out. He appointed Mr. Ches'er to command one, and Captain Tyson the other, and they were directed to select their boats and crews. The crew of boat No. 1, named by the commanding officer the "U. S. Grant," comprised; Mr. H. C. Chester, first mate, commanding. Mr. Frederick Meyer, scientist. Hermann Siemens. Robert Kruger. Frederick Aunting. Frederick Jamka. Boat No. 2, named the "George M. Robeson:" Capt. George E. Tyson, assistant navigator, com- manding. 22 1873. April. '5. t s 1-1 1 w 1 1 1 fl 1 338 \ The Boats- Creivs. 187a. April. i Dr. Emil Bessels, scientist. Gustavus Lindqvist. Henry Hobby. I'eter Johnson. William Nindemann. The commanders were ordered to have their boats and crew in readiness to start the 1st of May. At 2 p. m., Mr. Bryan and Joe started to rejoin Dr. Bessels, whom they had left on Offley Island, with a sled which they had brought back to be repaired. Hans, with another sled, accompanied them, on the complaint of Joe that the work was too hard for him. In the afternoon two ptarmigans were caught; a wolf also was seen. On the 2d, canvas covers were made for the boats. Mr. Chester superintended the work, and by his direction pro- vision-lockers were built, and boards added, extending the height of the gunwale six inches. The continued increase in the sunhght was still noticeable. At this time, the sun's rays were illuminating the mountain peaks at 3 a. m. At 8.30 p. m., his center was slowly moving over the tops of the mountains in Grinnell Land; at 9.30, his upper limb could still be seen through one of the gorges. Soon the sun would be entirely above the hori- zon for the whole twenty-four hours. On the 3d, the solar radiation black-bulb ther- mometer in vacuo read, when at its highest + 59°.7, the A Remarkable Ravine. 339 free bulb + 50°, while the temperature of the air was — 10°.4. On the 4th, Mr. Chester fastened on the stern of his boat a large reel, upon which was carried 2,500 fathoms of sounding-line. The seamen had measured the line, and the reel was arranged for the work of taking sound- ings. Mr. Odell and the firemen were employed in mak- ing iron bolts and braces for use in the boats. Mauch's journal of the 7th, says : " I have visited the ravine east of the observatory, distant about two miles, and shall never regret the time I spent there. The sight which I enjoyed was beyond my expectations. A narrow gorge leads into it, on each side of which the slaty overhanging layers of Devonic limestone, much broken and cliffy, give it the aspect of the ruins of some of those old castles that I saw on my trip down the Rhine. But far more grand and magnificent it gets the farther we proceed. 1 meet with a large snow-wall at least one hun- dred feet high, perfectly perpendicular, except on the top, where it seems inclined to tumble over and bury a person that gets too near; but, to proceed further, I must pass the dangerous spot. Here is a ravine leading out. I try to ascend it with hands and feet, using my knife to cut steps whenever I get on hard snow. I nearly reach the top, when I find an obstacle in my way in the shape of a bowl- der, which is jammed between the rocks and makes a fur- 1879. April. rA m ' "i 'pilM4lG4l>it9'A«,. . 340 i I 1879. April. Return of the Sledge-Party. "ther attempt impossible. I am compelled to return by the same dangerous route, and conclude to follow the ravine to its end, where, as I know from others that have visited the place before, an ascent is possible. At last I am be- fore a snow-wall which appears to be the end of the ra- vine, and by cuttiii^^ ■ i; !ps into it with my knife, as I have done before, I find myself on top of the hills. From there I conclude to return immediately on board." At 11.30 a. m. on the 8th, Dr. Bessels and his party returned to the ship from their sledge-journey. They were all in good health and spirits, with the exception of the Doctor, who was suffering from snow-blindness. The following brief account of the journey is taken chiefly from Captain Budington's journal. The course at first was nearly south. At 11.30 a. m. of the 27th of March, a fog gathered about them and a light snow began to fall. The view was very limited, and they soon found themselves lost among the hum- mocks. The traveling was slow and laborious. The dogs continually needed assistance ; the sled being heavily loaded, the work was by no means easy. At 1.15 p. m., the coast was reached. The fog and thick snow-storm still filled the air, and nothing definite in regard to their position could be determined. After some discussion Joe's view was adopted, that they should move down the coast toward the southwest. At 4.30 p. m., after much labor on account of the rou^h ice, the southern fiord was , Building an Igloo. reached. On arriving at the southwestern end of Offley Island they resolved to encamp. Joe found a deep bank of snow, which, by piercing it with his spear, he proved to be sufficiently hard to use in the construction of a house. With his long-handled snow-knife he cut several blocks of about the same size. They were from two to three feet in length, about eighteen inches wide, and six inches thick. The larger surfaces of the blocks were slightly curved to suit the form of the igloo. When nearly enough blocks were cut, he marked out a circle within which he cut out other blocks, by means of which the floor was lowered the thickness of one block below the general surface of the snow. The widest one he reserved until he closed up the first layer, and then used it to begin his spiral. Each block was firmly placed and fully supported by bringing the beveled edges into contact with each other. After the first course, the blocks were made to incline inwaiJly by beveling ofi" the edges upon which they stood. It was soon finished; Joe stood inside of a complete and perfect snow-dome. The final touches were given to it by smooth- ing ofif the surface and filling up the cracks. Then Joe selected a place for the entrance, and still further sunk the floor by a space 2 feet wide, 18 inches deep, and about 3 feet long from the edge of the wall back toward the center. When this floor was completed, a hole was cut through the wall for a door. 341 1879. niarcli. H f« i •6, 'il 342 1879. march. Furnishing the Igloo. When the house is built on a deep snow bank, the wall is 'sometimes not touched, as an entrance can be dug out of the snow under it. Then an arched way is built outside to protect the entrance from the wind. A small house is built near by in which to store the articles of food that are not immediately wanted. The process of moving into the house commenced. First the rubber blankets were spread over the floor, and upon them were laid the sleeping-bags and extra clothing. The provisions were stored on each side the entrance, and the Esquimaux lamp placed in position. While this was going on, the dogs were fed and Dr. Bessels prepared the supper, which, when the house was finished and furnished, all went in to eat. Joe fitted a large snow-block into the door, and cut a small hole near the top of the house for ventilation. The whole party then crawled into their sleeping-bags, and lying with their heads to the entrance were soon asleep. They lay eighteen inches below the surface of the snow, protected from the coldest winds. Joe lighted the lamp and placed the wet stockings and mit- tens on a frame stretched over it. But the lamp was not large enough to dry all the articles, and many were placed under the sleepers to receive the warmth of their bodies, which protected the clothing from being frozen. Under these circumstances the temperature soon rises to +35° F., and then every one is comfortable. „ ., Traveling up the Fiord. Early on the 28th, the party walked over the island, examining and surveying it. From the smnmit Cape Lupton could be seen, and it also could be perceived that by the projection of Cape Tyson, Offley Island had appeared from Cape Lupton to be a peninsula. Leaving some of the provisions in the snow-house, at fifteen minutes past noon, they started up the fiord, the ice of which was at first smooth and suited for rapid travehng. The cause of the wide track in it, running up the fiord as far as the eye could reach, was the subject of much speculation. Its edge was bordered by large hum- mocks, and the whole did not seem to be the work of more than one season. The land from Cape Mary Cleland is low and extends eastward, forming a bay. The course of the party was directed toward the cape at the other extremity of this bay. An immense ook-gook was seen lying on the ice near the crack. The dogs see- ing the animal, and being eager to rush at it, were with difficulty kept quiet. Joe went careful!} forward with his rifle, but before he could get within shooting-distance, the beast became alarmed and rolled into the water. A long line of cliffs was found to begin from the second cape, forming, for a great distance, a perpendicular wall of limestone, which enters directly into the water without any debris at its foot. On the northern side this line of cliffs is somewhat broken, far in the distance, by glacier 343 March. n *i 344 Ice-Bergs. ill ■ isra. discharges, while on the southern side of the fiord the cliffs are neither so steep nor so regular; the glacier resting on them can be seen. One feature, however, is common to both sides. This is a peculiarly marked and well-defined stratum which is seen to rise above the ice, and can be traced by the eye to a great distance toward the southeast, where it ascends to the top of the cliff. The southern cliffs present a similar formation. After rounding the second cape the traveling was very good, except where patches of deep snow and difficult cracks were encountered. Here the experience of J[oe was brought into use, and a great deal of time was saved by his judicious selection of crossings. At 2.30 p. m., it appeared that the fiord was shut up by immense icebergs ; on going nearer, however, a passage was discovered quite close to the cliff At 4.45 p. m., coming to a crack which could not be crossed, and where the bergs closing up prevented further traveling by the sled, the party encamped. They built a snow-house and passed the night very comfortably. Early on the 29th, a ptarmigan halted in its flight on the ice near by them, but not long enough for the huntero to get their guns loaded. Dr. Bessels and Joe started on foot to ascertain if there was any possibility of proceed- ing in the sled farther up the fiord. With great difficulty they crossed the crack, and then walked a short distance along the cliffs. Their progress was, however, soon ar- , , Observations. 845 , rested by bergs. They climed the higbest to examine the condition of the ice. As far as they could see there was a confused accumulation of bergs, crowded closely to- gether, leaving such spaces only as were due to irregular- ities of form. The fiord seemed filled from shore to shore with these bergs, which varied in shape and size, but not much in height. The termination of the fiord was not visible ; its general direction was southeast. Dr. Bessels, on his retm*n, tried to take a sounding in the crack near the encampment ; all the line was run out — 90 fathoms—without finding bottom. Mr. Bryan, during the day, was engaged in determining the position of the encampment, in making observations for declina- tion and dip, and in taking the necessary bearings and angles for the correct delineation of the coast-lines. The latitude observed was 81° 05' N. With the small Casella theodolite the height of the cliflfs was found :o be six hun- dred feet. A very prominent turret was selected, and not only its height, but its distance and bearing from the camp determined. The peak, from its shape and form was named the Devil's Thumb, after the large island in Melville Bay which bears that name. On the 30th, a heavy snow-storm and a thick fog prevented the party from returning to Offley Island. It cleared up, however, during the morning, and at 1 p. m. they set out. They soon came to a crack which seemed 1879. march. t ,t I' IM 346 An Accident. ft i m% mill: "'"^^^ ^^'^«'' than that which they crossed on their out- ward trip, and they were delayed some time before a suit- able place for crossing could bo found. Joe wont ahead, and, finding a place, made a signal for the others to come on. The dogs were going very nicely and needed no urging, but Mr. Bryan, wishing to practice with the whip, struck at them. Instead of hitting the dogs, however, he swung the end of the long lash around and hit Dr. Bes'sels a violent blow on the face, which caused great pain and called forth some remarks of a significant character ; but the doctor's equanimity was soon restored, and it was mutually agreed that whip-practice should be deferred to a more fitting occasion. Arriving at their encampment on Offley Island at 5.30 p. m., they found that their snow-house had bent in so much by the warm weather that they were obliged to take off the top and rebuild it. Early on the morning of the 3 1st, they were up preparing to start toward the south. The sled was loaded near the house, and in its passage, over the rough ice down to the smooth ice of the fiord, it broke. Joe de- clared that it could not be mended, and that he would be obliged to return to the ship after another; accordingly it was unloaded and temporarily patched up for the trip. Dr. Bessels concluded to stay on the island to make geological observations and collect mineralogical specimens. One of •I Solitude. 347 •I Iho dogs was left as a companion for him, and Mr. Bryan and Joo roturnod to the ship. It afterwards appeared that Joe broke the sled on purpose, by letting it fall, while heavily laden, on the point of one of the runners. When the doctor had first spoken to him about this excursion, Joe proposed to take two sleds, Hans driving one ; com- plaining that it would be too hard for him to do all the work. Dr. Bessels did not think so, and wishing to carry as few provisions as possible, decided to have but one sled. Joe apparently agreed to it, but on the first opportunity made an excuse to return to the ship. When he arrived there, he told Captain Budington that he must have Hans and another sled; that he could not manage one so heavily loaded. Captain Budington accordingly sent Hans; and the party, now consisting of Mr. Bryan, Joe, and Hans, reached the island at 7.45 p. m., April 1st. They found the doctor well and in good spirits, having met with no trouble during his solitary sojourn. Those who were on board were loud in their praise of the doctor's bravery in being wilHng to remain alone so far from the ship, even for that short time. On the 2d, at 7.45 a. m., the whole party started toward the south. They rounded the southeastern ex- tremity of Offley Island and crossed the mouth of the fiord. The traveling proved to be very good indeed, with 1§79. April. *l i*1 i 'fln 348 'ti 1879. April. Kennedy Channel. only occasional cracks and rough ice, and at 11.30 a. m., they reached the other side of the fiord. A bay extends from the cape, at the southern entrance of the fiord, to the cape at the northeast entrance of Kennedy Channel. They steered across this bay, making a direct course from cape to cape. Both capes are quite high, while the inter- vening land rises gradually in terraces, being very low near the coast and rising to an equal height with the capes some miles in the interior. They reached Cape Morton at 3 p. m. Joe Island bears about west from this cape. Upon rounding it they found the tracks of a bear. The ice was very rough, a large portion of it being young ice, with many cracks. They saw here the first signs of an ice-foot since leaving the ship. The land now turned toward the east, and a fiord was seen extending inland, on the other side of which was an island lying under a very large and bold headland. This was thought by them to be Cape Constitution, the object of their journey. They then directed their course toward Hannah Island. The traveling was very bad; they were obliged to use the greatest discretion in select- ing their route. The ice-foot was the safest, but frequently they found it so completely blocked up that they were compelled to seek the more insecure ice of the straits This was frequently young ice, hardly able to bear the weight of the loaded sled; at times they escaped breaking A Bear Killed. 349 through only by dashing over the thin places. Lifting the i8T». sleds up and down from the ice-foot and over the rough ^"*'"* hummocks was not an easy task; all became very weary. While striking across the fiord several bear-tracks and in- numerable fox-tracks were seen, in such succession that foxes seemed to be following the bears as constant com- panions. After great labor and not a little danger the island was reached at 8.30 p. m., and an encampment made on its western side. On the 3d, the natives, very weary with their labors of the previous day, were allowed to go off to the open water to hunt seals. Several were killed, but only one was secured. Mr. Bryan occupied the day in taking ob- servations. The latitude observed was 81° 07'. Dr. Bes- sels attempted to make a trip up the fiord, but the dogs refused to go and proved to be the masters. The next day Joe drove the dogs, and, at 7.30 a. m., they started up the fiord, into which several arms of a glacier emptied. Its head was about twelve miles from the encampment. On their return they met a bear, which Joe killed after an exciting and interesting hunt. They arrived at the en- campment at midnight. Hans had been hunting all day. Cape Bryan was found to be tv^elve hundred feet high. The party supposed from its latitude that it was the Cape Constitution of Kane, which was only known by the description of Morton as having perpendicular sides i' i L, 350 .'Vii I ill 1879. April. Cape Bryan. and being flanked by two islands. Joe and Hannah Isl- ands, though not exactly answering the description of Frankhn and Crozier Islands, were at first thought t» be the same, and it only remained to ascertain if the cape was perpendicular. As it did not look so from the island, it was determined to test it by personal examination! Accordingly on the 5th, at 5 p. m.. Dr. Bessels, Mr. Bryan, and Hans set out for the cape. The ice-foot was so blocked up with hummocks that it was impossible to travel over it with the sled. Having secured the dogs, they left the sled and rounded the cape on foot. It did not correspond in any particular with the description of Cape Constitution. In the distance another cape was seen, which entered the water perpendicularly. They undertook to go to this cape with the sled, but after a severe struggle they were obliged to stop when within a few miles of it. Afterwards, arriving there on foot they discovered that it was not Cape Constitution. They were-unable to proceed further, on account of the serious obstacles in the way and the want of provisions. Before turning back, however, they identified Cape Constitution and Franklin Island, the former some thirty miles distant. The water .vas open in Kennedy Channel as far as they could see. They regained the encampment at 3 p. m., after an absence of twenty- two hours, during which they had traveled under great difiiculties. On the 6th, just below Cape Bryan, they met l^he Steward's Sickness. 351 Joe, who had become anxious and was in search of them. Happily he brought with him welcome supplies of pro- visions. At 2 p. m., the next day, the whole party set out on its return to the ship. They reached Offley Island at 2 a. m. of the 8th, where they breakfasted, remaining until 3.45 a. m. They got on board at 11 a. m., as has been mentioned. Dr. Bessels suffered a great deal with his eyes. He was obliged to keep his bed until the 13th, and was not able to resume his regular watch at the observatory until the 23d. During his absence, Mr. Meyer took his place, making observations each day for sixteen consecutive hours. On the 11th, the magnetometer showed that the needle was very much disturbed during the appearance of bright parhelia. The sun, at midnight of the 16th, shone brightly above the mountains. The calm, cool weather during the first part of April closed up the straits. A few gales during the last of the month set the ice again in motion. John Herron, the steward, was laid up with a swollen foot, suffering considerably. His complaint was at first pronounced to be rheumatism ; but, on the 20th, he showed signs of scurvy. The traces of the little lemming attracted a great deal of attention, and many efforts were made to catch 1873. April. ^ '> t >i 352 1879. Open Water. some of them. Traps were set all over the plain, but in vain. On tlie 17th, Joe and Hans went off to the south- east hunting, but were obliged to return, as the dogs got into such a desperate Sght that nothing could be done with them. One of them was so badly injured that it was found necessary to kill it. Ine dogs go in pairs, which are inseparable. They often crowd themselves, while running with the sleds, and in the hustling together have, at times, long and severe battles. On the 20th, another copper cylinder was thrown overboard. On the 22d, Mr. Bryan with Mauch walked up to the fifth cape, above Cape Lupton. From an elevation of about twelve hundred feet they had a very extensive view. They could see the west land as far as Cape Joseph Henry, which was distant about 80 or 90 miles, with great distinctness; the eastern coast was shut out by Cape Sumner. Open water seemed to extend from shore to shore, and from the third cape northward for about twenty miles. There, a pack filled the straits, which, however, seemed somewhat open toward the western coast. A low cloud extended from north to northeast, but it was so distant and faint that it was impossible to tell whether it was a water-cloud or not. On the 24th, the men amused themselves with the howitzer. 3 n 1 , n 1 [li 1 ii I i a 1 ll ' '1 n lir '1 -t m ' > 'II' d ■5 <■,' ' » em. Traps were sot all over the j,lain, bu. i„ vam. On the 17th, Joe nnd IU„,s went off to the .onth- east hunting, but were obliged to return, as the ,tog» .r„l into sueh a desperate %ht that uotiiinj- could be ,1.^0 with (hem. (;u. „(■ then, was so badly injured thai, it was found neeessary to kill it. The dogs go in pairs, whieh arc inseparable. They often crowd lhen,selves, while running with the sleds, and in the hustling together have, at times, long and severe bailies. On the 20th, anoiher copper cylinder was thrown overboard. On the 22d, Mr. tiryau witii Maucli walked up to the .ai^M/ {^ roiij a,i elcrn^f m of "^''"' ' ' ' ^ '^ta ihi>y had a ven .vtcn^ivo view, Th^y .ouid .eo .he west land as tar a.. Cape Joseph Jfcnrv, whicii was di.tnni about 80 or 00 mile, with great distinctness; the eastern coast was shut o:. by- Cape Sumner. Open water seemed- to extend from shore to shore, and from the third cape northward for about twenty mile ;. There, a pack filled the straits, which however, seemed somewhat open toward the weste, J coast. A I.w cloud extended from north to i.ortheast but it was so diaant and feint that it was iu^possible to tell whether it was a water-cloud or not. On the 24th, the men amused dietuselves with the howitzer. / 1 H B* n ? o < n a n n to R "1 V) > •a 3 n; I, U I'i 't:i I { f Successful Hunting. Mr. Meyer determined the distance between the ship and the observatory to be thirteen hundred and seven feet. On the 25th, Joe and Hans returned from a musk-ox hunt, for which they had left the ship on the 19th. They had killed on the land north of Newman's Bay seven musk-oxen, one rabbit, and two ptarmigans; they brought part of the meat with them; the remainder they cached. In one of the cows they found a foetus, which they brought to Dr. Bessels. They reported having seen an Arctic owl and another herd of musk-cattle, and had dis- covered four small islands in the bay. On the 27th, a party, consisting of Mr. Chester, Fred. Jamka, and the two Esquimaux, started off with two teams for a musk-ox hunt. The crew had been employed during the month in clearing off the deck of the vessel of all snow and ice, in preparing for the boat's journey, in arranging in a suitable pile the stores and provisions which were to remain on shore, and in transporting others to the ship. On the 15th, the ice from about the rudder and pro- peller of the Polaris was cut away so as to expose them partially; everything was in good order. Only three men could work at a time, but as their relief was frequent, they made good progress. The log of the Polaris speaks of the condition as follows: 353 1879. April. ,!» 354 Icicles. 1879. April. "I think that it will be some trouble to keep the Polaris afloat when she comes dow, into the water again. Her B'des are much open. Her main rail is broken in one place by the heavy pressure of the whole top-work of the vessel listing over so much and for so long a time. No ordinary-built vessel could staud such a wrenching." On the 30th, the seamen cut some of the ice away between the vessel and the berg for the purpose of pre- ^-enting her from falling over so much at low tide, but the object was not accomplished. The moderation of the temperature had led to the formation of great icicles; some of them hanging from the berg were as thick as a man's arm. On the 26th, the black-bulb thermometer in vacuo read +83°.4, the free one +17».8, while the temperature of the air was +4?.%. During this time the sky was clear, and a light wind was blowing from the southeast, with a velocity of three miles an hour. The highest temperature during April was +10° 7 the lowest — 28°.8, and the mean — 5°.7. In compliance with the orders of Captain Budinaton the boat-parties had prepared everything to start on°the let of May. The temperature, however, remained too low for their journey. ^t 10 p. m. of the 1st of May, Mr. Chester and party returned. They were all well, with the exception of \ The Midnight Sun. 355 Mr. Chester and Frederick Jamka, who were suffering l8Ta. from snow-blindness. They had 'illed two musk-oxen on ""'* the extensive plains north of Newman's Bay, and had traveled to the hsad of the bay, finding a glacier which discharged itself at that pomt. They had lost one dog, and had been delayed by others which had fits. They brought back a good deal of meat, which was stowed away in the pilot-house. On the 4th, a strong gale from the northeast pre- vailed, rising to a velocity of 63 miles per hour; not- withstanding this there was no open water to be seen in the straits. On the 7th, Joe drove Mr. Meyer down to the mountain south of Polaris Bay, to enable him to com- plete the survey commenced in the autumn; they started at 4 a. m., and did not return until 7 p. m. During the day some of the hands were out hunting, and brought back one ptarmigan and one hare. The 8th was the warmest day experienced for some time, and the crew enjoyed it. Captain Tyson and one of the men were out on the plain for a day's hunt. At midnight, for the first time, the sun shone upon the observatory, and the temperature did not fall below zero. Observatory Bluff had for a long time cast its shadow over the building; the shadow had gradually shortened and now could not reach it. On the 9th, at 4 a. m., Mr. Meyer and Joe started I I. < i 4^ \ 356 isra. JUajr. Highest Point on Land. for Nowman'8 Bay, intending lo »urvoy that and tho coast <« far as possiblo; and, if time permitted, to go further north. Captain Tyson and Hans sot out at tho same time on a musk-ox hunt. The seamen had been at work cleaning the vessel and overhauling the rigging, so that, on the 10th, she was reported ready for service, when freed from the ice. The steward continued to be quite sick, with marked symptoms of scurvy. Some of the men succeeded in catchin.. a lemmnig. All were very much interested in the little creature, as it was the first they had seen. The northeast gale of the Ilth, had no apparent effect upon the ice. This occasioned much uneasiness. The hopes of success in further northern exploration had centered in boat-expeditions. The frequent open water dunng the winter and spring had warranted these hopes On this account the ice of the straits was closely watched for signs of open water, which had disappeared at the moment when most looked for, and when most necessary At 10 p. m., on the 14lh, Mr. Meyer and Captain Tyson, with the Esquimaux, returned. They had crossed Newman's Bay, and traveling over the mountains, had reached the latitude of 82" 09' N., as determined by Mr Meyer with a sextant and artificial horizon-then the highest northern point ever reached by land. They would have gone still farther had not their fuel given out. While iJr«»»i fy J ZinJe7iJr<,)a 1*1 'II I - i inW li T' WW gM Wip— BUM a II a 01 w w sc a. a. ei Beer. Meyer and Joe went to the mouth of the bay to survey, Captain Tyson and Hans crossed it, hunting for musk-cat- tle, of which they killed twelve, eight large ones and four calves. On the south shore of Newman's Bay, Mr. Meyer deposited a record which had been given him by Captain Budington for that purpose. The weather was so favora- ble that he was able to sketch the west coast of the strait as far north as Cape Joseph Henry. The men had been engaged for two or three days in making beer. It was sour and bitter, but they seemed to relish it, and it was thought that it would do them good. The barrel was placed in the galley, and all were greatly amused at the sign fastened over the door : " North Pole Lager Beer Saloon. No trust. Peter Johnson. Cash." On the 16th, the ashes which had accumulated dur- ing the winter were spread out on the ice near the ship to absorb the sun's rays and hasten the melting of the ice, in order to free the ship as soon as possible. The steward was now improving very rapidly; he ceased to lake medicine, and ate much raw meat for his scurvy. At 10.30 a. m., of the 17th, Hans and Peter John- son started for Newman's Bay on a hunt, and at 1 1.30 a. m., Joe and Robert Kruger followed them. From 4 a. m. to 11 a. m., Joe had been with Mr. Meyer, at Cape Lupton, and out on the ice of the straits. Mr. Meyer was engaged in finishing the survey of the surrounding coasts. 357 1679. May. -^ ■Ik ii 358 1879. may. Boat at Cape Lupton. Too much credit cannot be given to him for the zeal and ability with which he prosecuted the survey of Thank- God Harbor. On the 18th, three snow-birds were seen. On the 19th. the two hunting-parties returned, having killed two musk-cattle and two ptarmigans. They had seen large numbers of these birds, and could have obtained more if they had been supplied with shot-guns. Mauch says in his journal : " I have been up to Cape Lupton, comparing Hayes' 'open polar sea' of the 19th May, 1861, with the present one. The straits present a vast body of impenetrable pack, with not a speck of open water." On the 29th, the steward had so far recovered that he was able to resume his duties. During his illness, Wal- ter Campbell, one of the firemen, had been of great serv- ice in doing part of his work. The rise of the tide, together tvith the melting of the snow, produced from two to three feet of water on the port side of the vessel. It was necessary to run plank out from the ports to get on board dry-shod. Mr Chester, having completed his boat, in order to be ready to start as soon as the ice opened, transported her to the httle cove just north of Cape Lupton. For this purpose the large sled and a full team of dogs were used ; the men keepmg company to help over the hummocks. Flies. 359 I The 2l8t was a very warm day; the temperature, for the first time, rising above the freezing point to +33°.6 r. The Esquimaux women improved the sunshine by taking the musk-ox skins to the shore and preparing them for preservation. Mrs. Hans, with her children about her, amused herself in watching a fire built between two stones and the frying of a steak on a thin piece of slaty limestone. The two natives, with Booth and Hobby, started for Newman's Bay to bring back the meat which had been left there in a cache. In the afternoon a fly was seen. It was much larger th&n an ordinary house-fly. On the 22d, a northeast gale failed to open the straits ; the spirits of the explorers were very much depressed. Dr. Bessels succeeded in catching two flies, which made the begin- ning of his collection of insects. A snow-bird was seen near the observatory. On the 23d, the hunters returned, bringing large loads of meat. They had also killed two ptarmigans and had seen one hawk. On the 24th, water was discovered in the bilge to the depth of three feet; it was feared that the vessel was leak- ing. Attempts were made to pump it out, but the pumps could not be made to work. The next day the men used the small pump, the 'handy billy,' and freed the ship. The water returned, however, with an increase, but it 1879. Qiay. I 360 Captain Tyson's Boat. „. »• could not be detemined whether it wa. caused by a leak or by the melting of the ice i„ the bunkers. On the 27th the carpenter and Booth were sent below to look for the leak, if one existed. On the 28th. the water had gained hve .nehes during the night; this indicated that the ship was certainly leaking. To return to the boat-journeys. On the 24th, Captain Tyson s boat was taken to Cape Lupton. On the 25th, the provisions were sledded to the boa... Joe, after one of his oads, mstead of returning to the ship, went out into the stait. and killed a small seal. The sight of three streaks of clear water in the straits had raised the spirits of officers and men, exciting great expectations; all, however, were cast down^when on the 26th, the straits were again blocked np. Hannah, in one of her travels, found a very interest- .ng rehc, near Cape Lupton. It was quite a large piece of an Esquimaux sled-runner, with one of the cross-bars It was partially imbedded in the shingle and its position was rom four to five hundred yards from the coast, and about fifty feet above water-level. It remained an pen quest, on whether it had drifted there or whether it had been Icf there by some Esquimaux in his wanderings Robert Kruger brought to the ship a hve lemming which was put into a box, and carefully fed. On th' m, m one of their excursions far out in the straits after seals, the natives saw two gulls and several dovefcies Esquimaux Habits. Another live lemming was caught by Kobert Kruger, and added to the one in the box. The lowest temperature during May was 7°.5, the highest + 33°, while the mean was +17°.7. On the 28th. another load of provisions was taken to Cape Lupton. -The cracks now in the straits opened with a rising tide, and closed with a falling one." The sailors began to complain that Mrs. Hans did not keep her apartment clean; being just forward of their quarters, it threatened to become very disagreeable, as the warm weather advanced. Captain Budington ex- amined the room, and was utterly astonished at its state. He had never seen such a filthy place during his long ex- perience among the Esquimaux. He arranged, for the family, a tent on deck, where they would at least have fresh air, and had their room thoroughly cleaned. Some German sausage had been included among the ■provisions for the boats; it was, however, decided that it was too salt to be palatable, and it was brought back to the ship. The two Esquimaux started off on the plain on a hunting-expedition. They were provisioned for several days. At 9 p. m., of the 30th, Robert Kruger and Her- mann Siemens, who had been out all day, returned with the intelligence that they had killed a musk-cow. This roused the whole crew, seven of whom at once started for 361 1879. May. * , ^^4 «< !H s. ^ ^. .u-lft ~ mifm — Ba»^n»T5rt!B5(i5n=3S!*S5Ww»*r^ litl 362 An Exciting Hunt. •^«- the foot of Chester's Mountain. The herd from which one had been killed consisted of four animals; one bull two cows, and a calf. Hermann Siemens, in his journal, says: "Suddenly we saw two of these animals, with a calf, resting on the snow at the foot of the mount near one of the ponds about five hundred yards from us. Seeing us they jumped up, when we fired at them. While I was reloading my companion suddenly warned me that a large bull was u.akmg at me behind my back, and, looking around, I saw It furiously nraning against me with all its speed I qmckly retreated until ready with my breech-loader. When I halted, the beast joined the others, and the three formed a line, with the calf behind them, ready for fight bellowing terribly. We now fired again, but as we dii so at a considerable distance, not daring to close in with- out dogs, only one female fell, and the others, with the calf, took flight. As I had no mo™ balls, and my com- panion only a shot-gun, we did not follow them." The party that left the ship soon found the dead cow and while two of them stopped to skin it the others weni m pursuit of the rest of the herd, William Nindemann was the fortunate one, and succeeded in shooting both the bull and the cow. The calf remained near its fallen mother. At 2.30 a. m. of the 31st, some of the men started to return to the ship with the musk-cow, and Musk Cattle. three men, ^^AXmui Nindomann, Gust. Lmdqvist, and Henry HoM^y, remained to skin the other animals. Not- withstanding that two of the best teams were away, the dogs, which had been hastily collected, pulled remarkably well, and brought the party back in a short time. At 9.30 a. m., the three men returned, bringing with them the calf. It was alive, but unfortunately one of its legs had been broken by a random ball, and Dr. Bessels killed it to put it out of misery. Nindemann had only wounded the two animals, which were found and killed, but not where he left them stretched out. At 10 a. m.,' Dr. Bessels went with two of the men to superintend the skinning of tho animals, his object being to keep the skin perfect, so that it could be stuffed. They returned at 7.30 p. m., leaving one other load to be brought to the vessel. The meat was placed in the refrigerator in Providence Berg. As the weather became warm it was discovered there was no place about the ship where meat could be kept.^ A large, square hole was then dug in the berg, and in this ice-chamber it remained sweet and fresh. 363 1879. f'l !*1 CHAPTER XVI. The crews for the boat-expedition were ready, and waiting only for a favorable opening in the ice. As both the small whale-boats were assigned for the northern jour- ney, it was necessary for the rest of the crew to have one of the other boats in readiness for use. One of the large whale-boats which had been upon the house, was there- fore overhauled and painted, and on the 1st of June hoisted up to the davits. The men had become rather impatient, and for a change, Captain Budington determined to send them off on a hunt; accordingly, at 1.50 p. m., Mr. Chester's crew started off At 5.50, they reached the place where one of the musk-oxen, that had been killed a few days before, lay. It was about fourteen miles southeast of the ship. William Nindemanu was sent back with the meat, and Hermann Siemens, Robert Kruger, and Fred. Jamka remained and erected their tent. On the 2d, Joe and Hans returned from their 1879. June. «■ I' i ll ■ ,1 •I' < II """"-wr 368 1879 Juue. Discouraging Prospects. Imnt. Thoy had seen no musk-oxen, but had caught two seals in Newman's Bay. On the 3d, three feet of water was again found in the bilge. The dock-pumps being frozen would not work, and it was necessary to get up steam. The little boiler was suffieient, and from noon to midnight kept the pumps going l\\\ the water was out. Captain Budington sent Captain Tyson tward the north to report on the state of the iee and the prospects for the success of the boat-parties. Accompanied by Mauch, he started shortly after breakfast, and, after a long and weary tramp, reached the cape just below Sumner Headland. They estimated that they were eighteen miles from the vessel and fifteen hundred feet above the sea- level. After lunching and taking a short nap, they re- turned to the ship, arriving about midnight. Their report was very unfavorable. The straits were filled with ice There were a few disconnected leads as far as Newman's Bay, but north of that the pack was close. Budington says in his journal: "The plain is full of fine streamlets of water that give moisture to the ground Saxifragas are blooming, and are distributed all over the plam. Insects are getting numerous. Flies and mosqui- toes are met with. This single warm day has called many into life." -^ The log-book at this date says: "It was discovered to-day that the vessel leaked most at high water, and that Stopping the Leak. *' the oak was somewhere near the forward end of the ves >el, as the water could be heard in the hold running all, the vessel being much down by the stern. In the a*»«rnoon, after a close inspection outside and around the buw of the vessel, the leak was found. It was on the starboard side of the bow, near the stem, right below the 6-foot mark, the water at low tide being just below it. The heavy pressure, caused by the vessel's hanging over so much above the ice, had bent or cracked the stem and split open a plank, leaving a crack which ran from the stem to about eight feet aft. We went immediately to work to take off the iron sheeting and repair damages, but after an half-hour's work had to stop on account of the turning of the tide, which rapidly rose above the leak. We cannot now tell how badly the stem is damaged." The work of stopping the leak went on. The crack was thoroughly calked and leaded over, and the iron sheeting restored to its place. The vessel did not, how- ever, cease to leak. Further search disclosed a corre- sponding crack on the port side. It appeared that the whole stem was wrenched and split. The seams were opened on each side, and unfortunately, that on the port side was under water at low tide, and could not be closed. On the morning of the 4th, Captain Tyson's crew started south to take the place of the party in camp, which, on being relieved, returned to the ship. They 369 1879. « ^ M ■f,: ■■i J ■t»!«L'.f. 370 June. A Natural Refrigerator. brought six ptarmigans, the only game they had secured. The Esquimaux who had been hunting all day in the straits caught three seals. They saw twenty-four sunninc. themselves on the ice, near a crack of considerable len^rth and about three feet in width. A large flock of eider- ducks was seen from the vessel. The ice about the deck- pumps had finally melted away and they were in working order. The steam-pump kept the bilge clear. The tem- perature rose to +42°, and the effect of the sun was very marked. There was no difficulty in obtaining water. A large hole was cut in the berg, which in a very short time was filled ; indeed, the whole side of the berg had become a water-course. A hose was placed in this hole and con- nected with a hand-pump on deck , from this natural re- frigerator one could readily get a bucket or tumbler of the coldest ice-water. Early on the 5th, Mr. Bryan and Joe set out for the southern fiord. Mr. Bryan wished'to complete its survey m which some few important bearings had been omitted. Mauch was again sent to the north to examine the condition of the ice. His report was most discouraging, ^ot even the disconnected leads seen by Captain Tyson were visible; the whole surface of the straits north, west, and south, was covered. William Jackson, the cook, had a very severe fall but fortunately did not break any bones, although he suf- Open Water in Kennedy Channel. fered great pain. Wood obtained from old boxes and bar- rels was now used for fuel instead of coal, which was precious ; it was expedient to reserve the coal for steam- ing. Hans was oflF to the south and west hunting, and brought back with him a full-sized ook-gook. He created great excitement by reporting that there was a large body of open water at the entrance to Kennedy Channel. This renewed the hope that something might yet be accom- plished by means of boats. The open water into which the ice would be carried by the current and north winds,— leaving an opening above, through which the boats might reach a high latitude,— was expected to be seen first at the south. In the afternoon, of the 6th, Mr. Bryan and Joe returned, having successfully accomplished their object. The traveling over the ice was quite bad on account of its being generally honey-combed. The feet of the doffs became very sore ; it was necessary to protect them with skin-boots to enable them to travel. In many places there was a great deal of water upon the ice, the pools, made by the melting of the snow and ice of the neighboring hummocks, being so deep that it was necessary, when crossing them, to stand upon the sled and hold the instru- ments to keep them from getting wet. They encamped on Oniey Ii^land, and found there an old Esquimaux 371 1873. June. f^i 372 1879. June. Fossils. settlement. Eemains of several stone huts were also found, and the ground was streaked with the bleached bones of animals which had constituted the food of the natives. Many pieces of wood and bone which had been used in the manufacture of sleds and hunting-implements were picked up. A large number of the most interesting of these relics, together with many beautiful specimens of fossils, were brought to the ship by Mr. Bryan and given .to Dr. Bessels. Some of the same kind of fossils had been brought from Offley Island early in the spring. They were the remains of good-sized tropical trees, and were not found at any other place in the vicinity of Po- laris Bay. All the fossils found near Thank-God Harbor had been taken from erratic bowlders, the slaty limestone of the mountains containing no fossils whatever. Offley Island is, however, formed of entirely different rock, and It was in the native stone that these fossils were embed- ded. Most of them were collected among the dSris at the foot of a perpendicular ledge which was slowly beinrr disintegrated. The party had seen numbers of seal and birds, such as dovekies, ducks, and gulls. While Mr. Bryan was at work on the island, Joe started after some seals. Slowly crawling on the ice nearly half a mile, imitating a seal, so as not to frighten a watchful ook-gook, he succeeded in getting quite close. I Struggle with a?i Ook-Gook. and fii-ed at it. For a while it lay perfectly still. Leaving his recumbent position, he walked toward the animal. It began, however, to move, and Joe fearful lest it should crawl to the crack, threw down his gun, and running up, seized it by one of its hind flippers and pulled it back, just as it was about to drop into the crack. He was not strong, and the beast was large and powerful, so that he could only draw it back a short distance, when his strength gave out. The animal again made for the crack, but Joe returned to the charge before it could plunge. Unfortunately he had left his large knife at the sled; having only a pocket-knife, he used it to the best advantage, but was unable to reach the huge creature's vitals. He continued the struggle until he was completely exhausted, and wc.s then forced to let the animal take the water. He bore about him the marks of the struggle, being spattered with blood from head to foot. The party had gone some distance into the liord, and 'ipon their return stopped at the tent to make r, jall upon the men encamped there. They found all v 11 and in good spirits, but unsuccessful in securing f.r^v musk-cattle. Henry Hobby returned with them, bringing five ptarmi- gans, two different species of snipe, and om snow-bird. During the afternoon, a beautifal mirage of the western coast was observed. The appearance of the land about Lady Frarkln Bay was particularly marked. 373 187a. June. t. >'« !M 't tiS^!^rSM' 374 1879. June. Renewed Hopes. On the morning of the 7th, Mr. Chester went to Cape Lupton to examine the ice, and soon returned with the report that there was open water near the cape, and that ho should start at once. All was excitement and joy. The men were nearly wild with the prospect of doing something. Great expectations were raised that they would now be able to atone for the inactivity of the spring, and add to the usefulness of the expedition. During the whole winter the boat-journeys had been talked about, and it had been shown over and over again how comparatively easy it was to go to the Pole No difficulties were allowed to stand in the way, and the route was as clearly marked out as if it were a well-known chanr'el. Undoubtedly the warm glow of the cabiu-stove lad much to do with the coloring- thrown around this boat-journey. So completely had the self-deception been effected, that people now looked with confidence to the result. Hans was sent to the south to brmg back the remainder of Captain Tyson's crew and returned at 6 p. m.. with the men, eager to set out for the north. It may well be doubted whether any expedition ever left an Arctic vessel with more con- fident expectations. Tidal observations at the ship were now to be omitted, there being no one left to take them. The meteorological record was kept by Mr. Bryan whose Boat Crushed. watch extended from midnight until noon, and hy Mauch who observed during the remaining twelve hours. Mr. Chester and his crew set out, under orders from Captain Budington, at 8 p. m. for Cape Lupton, where they found less open water than was counted upon. On the 8th, Captain Tyson's crew went to Cape Lupton, Captain Tyson and Dr. Bessels remaining at the vessel. One of Tyson's crew brought back a report by no means favorable. Mr. Chester had not been able to get off, and was anxiously waiting for an opening in the ice. The leak of the Polaris seemed to be increasing, and an effort was made to use the donkey-engine and pump to clear the vessel. On the 9th, at 1 1 a. m., Mr. Chester arrived at the ship, bearing the unwelcome and unexpected intelligence that his boat was crushed by the ice and was an utter loss. The effect upon the ship's company was indescribable. The grief at the disappointment of their expectations was great, and every one listened with anxiety to the details. The following is the mate's own statement from the log: "On the morning of the 8th, quite a strip of open water leading up around the cape ; launched the boat and loaded up; pulled up about two miles; the pack closing in again, landed on the fast ice; here we stopped about four hours, watching the movements of the ice from the hill. At the end of that time, the tide turning, the ice 375 187a. June. 376 The Men Escape. I III* '''"'g»° to open again up around the cape near the shore- dragged our boat and provisions over an old floe about' one-half m,le m extent, and pushed on again. We had proeeeded about one mile when the small drifting ice com- pelled us to land. We pulled np on a level floe between wo grounded icebergs, which we considered a safe place to eamp. The pack soon set in, and we made arrange- ments for a short nap before the tide turned again to set the ice off. A good watch was set to observe the move- ments of the ice, &e., with instrnctions to call up the crew as soon as the ice opened snfliciently for a passage of our boat np around the cape. At 6 o'clock on the •corning of the 9th, the ice began to open again. The mate who was asleep on a rubber-blanket about one rod ahead of the bo»t, was called by the man on watch. At that mstant the ice broke between him and the boat. Ihree of the men were with the boat. The piece of ice hey were on went off so rapidly that we could not get to them. They soon came in contact with the movL pack, and the boat wa^ crushed to pieces. Everyt thn,g that wa. in her wa, lost, with the exception of three nfles, the box-chronometer, and a few other small articles. The ice soon became still, which enabled the men t« get off safely. The pack was moving np the coast to the northwest. A point of an old floe came i„ con- tact with the land-ice about a quarter of a mile to the south Canvas-Boat. "of us, which 1^ 'oke the ice where our boat was, there being at the time quite a space of open water between our boat and the moving pack. Among the articles lost with the boat was the Casella theodolite, which was very much regretted." A little past noon the crew arrived. They were not at all discouraged, feeling that it was an unavoidable accident. Mr. Chester at once asked and obtained per- mission to make another attempt in the Heggleman port- able folding canvas-boat. His crew set to work to rig it up in the best of spirits, hoping that after all they might accomplish something. Dr. Bessels left the vessel imme- diately after dinner to join Captain Tyson, who had gone to the cape in the morning. They were to be prepared to start in the evening. Joe, who had been out hunting, shot one seal and two eider-ducks. On the 10th, a little open water was seen, which encouraged the hope that Captain Tyson had been able to start. Steam was kept up constantly. It was necessary to work the little engine six hours out of the twenty-four to keep the vessel free from water. In the boiler ten pounds of steam was needed when working; at other times only six pounds was maintained. During the night of the 10th, the temperature fell below the freezing-point, and the pools of w^ter were covered with a thin film of ice. It was noticed that now 377 1879. Jnne. "I m 378 ■WW*, June. Chester Starts Again. wh.ch fell ,he„ wmds from the southwest prevailed t w,„d passed over the warm land, while the -thwe.t wind traversed the iee-eovered strails. On the nth, Hans and one of the men took an advance load to Cape Lupton for Mr. Chester. Upon Lis -..he reported that Captain T.son and ere^h!: At 10 a. m. of the 12th, Mr. Chester and crew set off ... good spn-its, with the canvas-boat, singin. a 1! n.aste!tnd'lt;L^'";;''^^ '''"-'''''■' »"« ^-»- the I4tl T ! ^ ^'"'^ ""'" ^^^ ">« «>">• On *"''*'/»: ^"^o' "^ Wrd called a boatswain. He also vessel, the horns of a reindeer. A white gull was seen propeller from ice. There ^^, „„ • leak and !f „ improvement in the leak, and .t was necessary to keep steam „p continually. one hour; remarkable because it was so different Preparing Specimens, from any experienced during the winter. A northwest wind WC3 blowing and the thermometer stood at +33°. 1. A northeaster sprung up and the temperature went up to +41°.5. On the 16th, a little open water was again seen, and a large white gull w^as observed flying toward the north. The ashts, sprinkled on the floe, had worked their way, under the influence of the sun, down through the ice until there stood over them a pool of water two and a half feet deep and about two hundred feet long by thirty broad. Greatly to the disappointment of all, no open water could be seen on the 1 7th; a flock of geese was seen flying in a southerly direction. On the 18th, a light snow fell. Ducks now resorted in great numbers to the pond a short distance north of the observatory; Hans was fortunate enough to get within shot, and succeeded in bagging one of the beautiful king-ducks. Mauch took upon himself the labor of preparing specimens during Dr. Bessels' absence. He spent a great deal of time in skinning and stuffing the different birds, in collecting botanical specimens, and in bottling insects. In addition to these labors and the twelve hours' meteor- ological observations, he kept, as before. Captain Buding- ton's journal, and wrote up the daily log for Mr. Chester. He was a very b"3y man; and when it is remembered 379 1S7«. June. I 880 IhL*!' '•'"" '^" <'««*««' ihi.oih ^V^"/< IIV//,v', •■<'««i!Mr (||,i|,,w '«'0 liiiK*! <>n llio anil. II •"*'' vohu.tnry ,,m.I |,oy,Mi,l I, Id '<»n», HO ilini it »" VKSN,^! w„H Ituikill^r XV iNvolvo ItoiirN out oC tl ^vnM lUM'rNNnry (o k,M»|) |I H^ l\voiily.(om-. Tl i'»«'«niiUMi. and oM oV«M(« ||S(Mt UNO (linii Im,. "' l»"'"lp foill^r »«' wood wjiH nil '• '" <'nid(» luipontiiio will <>'> do luoniin^r or llioL'Oih, II » »i> ook nook; lliov ||,„| I "'•oiil Iwoiil y lour Ikmi IS. 'iXvvi o IWmi 11,0 voHsol '•nv.Mi was soon hy lUumnh. K'Ho coiiiiii.nml, prcHlnrino- «onio n two niiloH A •^^ '»f Tin ' noxt flmiis lo (ho looily oC .10 mil,,, ,,„ , Nolli Nvosi and sonMiW(>st '"'>.«: ImiI ono In-oad •onr; tho woro coniplololy ohmrod. tloMod ovor horo and || oxjHviod th.nl Iho lull) ivxpanso of wnltM- oonid 1 «oJ<^ wilh piooos of ioo. It •0 soon, was a fondiiiionov. all th I>«H>vido for suoh takon on board, and *''"' ^*^»"'»l l>'M.sod for Inol w,Ks Uik rtvords wort> loft in Iho bnihiino- 'o v»vss(>| would ol(\'u- liors(»ir. 1 iiistrnnionls woro tnorylhino- about Iho ol an aooonntofthooxpodition. •sorv.'ilory *" l> il. and It was iully ex- Sawiiu) Oat. poctod ilmi Providoiico Hurg would got adrift luid ho drivoii into tlio HtmitH. Tho wind, liowovor, diod iiwjiy iit noon; tlM^ hor^r kopt Hh p|a(!o. All tho i(!o outHJdo of it hml \rmi\ und tho wiitor onnio to within thirty foot of tho Htorn or tli(^ Hhip. 'V\w ioo wjih ton foot thick, and ^ajn- powdor failod to hroak it up. Hovoral ^ndls won^ Hoon during tlui dny and ono dovc^kio was Hhot. A coppor <'ylindor, contninin^r a rocord of tlit) pro(!(!(Mlin^rH of tho ox- prdition ti|> to (liitc^ waHoarofully Hoalod and thrown ovor- hoanl. A litth^ to tho north of tho vchhoI waw a largo horg, which, IVoni itn i)oouliar Hliap(s Iwid hoon known among iju, HailorH as tho '• I^\!rry-hoat." TIuh was lloattid, and oarriod ahout IimIC a niilo to tho north, whoro it gronndod. On tho 2;{d, tho onginoorH and firomon wore engaged in altcu-ing largo ico-sawH, to make tlu^ni more Horviceahlo in cutting out tho whip; a dc^rrick waH raiwod for work in< thoin. Tho captain had now decided to naw the vchhoI out, and tho (^-ew hcnng small, all hands were wet to work on the 24th, lahoring, with slight interruption, from 2 a. m. to 4 p m. The lower ends of the poles of the derrick were iron-shod, and it was so rigged as to he easily moved from i)lace to place. At 7 a. m. of the 2r)th, the work of sawing was rc- conunenced, and a little after noon it cleared the ice, which was twelve solid feet in thickness to within ten feet of tho 381 .If IN79. Junn. i" '^^Mriiilil^"*T "r ■'■"-' -"'•-'-fril' — .! IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A {./ ^ w^\ A #JJ 1.0 M 124 K S= Ka K^ 2.2 l"l I.I 1.25 £ lit £ us 1110 1.4 1.6 Photograpliic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 €3 ,\ \ c\ ^ '^ l^ 382 Ship Floats. I: 1-! J «hJP.- tbere, the ice being fifteen feet thick, the sawing was arrested. As this ice was separate from both the berg and the land-ice, it was thought practicable to move the whole mass at once. In order to accomplish this, a very heavy purchase was rigged of four double blocks, the fall of which was taken to the capstan. It finally proved successful, and at 5 p. m., the stem of the vessel was free. Two dovekies were shot during this day. On the forenoon of the 26th, the saw was again at work. After clearing away much ice from near the ves- sel a new cut was begun, leading directly into the pond made by the ashes. It was reached at 1.30 p. m., when, immediately the ice opened, the Polaris slid from the tongue of the berg and was once more afloat. She leaked so badly that the steam-pump was at work all day with- out cessation. The dogs and everything on the ice worth preserving, were taken on board. Captain Budington determined to start at once, under sail, for the north. There was much open water in sight, and it was possible that Robeson Strait was free, and that a high latitude might be attained. The boat-parties, now absent more than two weeks, were supposed to be at least as far as Cape Joseph Henry, and it was expedient to join them, if possible. The first step was to get the anchors. The starboard anchor lying under Providence Ber^ was inaccessible. The port anchor lay iHMi Unsuccessful Voyage. clear, but after heaving at it for three hours the crew were unable to break ground. The captain was very anxious to improve the opportunity, if there should be one ; the anchor waf therefore buoyed and the chain unshackled. At 8 p. m., the Polaris got under way. Beside the cap- tain, there was only one able seaman on board, and he was the cook. Steering to the north, and rounding Cape Lupton, the ship seemed to have before her a clear sea. Very soon, however, ice was encountered, and on approaching Cape Sumner the pack was found to be impenetrable. Eunning down its edge she crossed the basin and arrived at Capo Lieber, where, again, no opening whatever was found. All night she traversed the face of the pack in vain. Next day the ship returned to Thank-God Harbor, arriv- ing at 10 a. m., and tied up to her old friend, Providence Berg. It was observed that there was not quite so much water running aft as usual ; upon investigation it appeared that the limber-holes were chol 1, and the water was backed up. The fore-peak, the chain-lockers, and the main hold were full of water. Many of the provisions were seriously damaged. The carpenter and Fireman Booth were sent below to bore holes in the bulk-heads. On the 28th, the water at the anchorage was so clear that the tongue of the berg, upon which the vessel had 383 1873. Jane. '^1 384 Ice Again. 1 ,...; l"""? iJI winter, was plainly visible. The damage to the vessel could also be seen. The whole stem was split off and wrenched .„ port. The part below the 6-foot mark projected at least half an inch beyond the upper part. It was not to be wondered at that the vessel leaked as ,ae did ; the only wonder was that she kept afloat During the morning, rifle-shots were heard off on the eastern plain, which came from Kruger and Siemens, two of Mr. Chester's boat-crew. There was much surprise at tneir return, and they were eagerly questioned as soon as they came on board. They reported that both boat- crews were encamped on the ice at the mouth of New- man's Bay; that they had had comparatively little diffi^ oulty m getting there, but that it wonld be impossible to make further progress toward the north. They bore a note from Mr. Chester asking for bread. Captain Bud- ington, after hearing their stoiy, determined to proceed in the vessel and pick the boats „p, „ot only to secure their necessary help in taking care of the ship, but to be ready to move north in the vessel should the opportunity occur. ' At 1.15 p. m., the Polaris got under way, but unfor- tunately encountered as usual the blockade of ice at Cape bnmner. Signals were made for the return of the boats without success. During the night the Polaris traversed along the edge of the pack, which presented an unbroken Breaking out the Anchor. mass; and in the morning the captain sent Hang with a not« to Chester, directing him to return with the boats, after which the vessel was headed for Thank-God Harbor. Another effort was made to obtain the anchor with an increased purchase, which resulted in getting some addi- tional chain. At low-water (midnight) the cable was hove taut and secured. This broke out the anchor with the rise of the tide, and at daylight it was hove up and catted; lines were, then run out to the berg, and the vessel was properly secured. At thirty rods ^ obt of the berg, the depth oi the water was seventeen fathoms ; its temperati^- • at the bottom was + 32M ; at the surface it was -f 36°.8, and the specific gravity was 1.0270. The mean temperature of the air during the day was +46°: the highest was + 52°. The bay still remained free from ice, except a little of the land-ice and a few drifting pieces. At the north the pack was slowly moving toward the south. At the head of Kennedy Channel there was but little ice. The highest temperature recorded in the meteorological journal during June was + 49°; the lowest, + 28°; while the mean was about +37°.l. On the Ist of July, the perishable articles on shore were stored, for additional protection, in the observatory, which was covered with a sail. Captain Hall's grave was made to present a better 2S 385 1879. June. ! * ! 1; 386 Another Effort to Get North. I luiy?* appearance than was possible when the ground was frozen. It had been surrounded with stones; some soil was trans- ported to it, and a few plants set out. A copper cylinder, containing the history of the expedition, was also buried in the grave. A head-board was set up, on which was painted — TO THB MEMOBT OP 0. F. HALL, Late Commander of the U. S. North Polar Expedition, DiedNov. 8th, 1871: Aged 50 years. At 7 p. m.. Dr. Bessels and Hans arrived at the vessel, having walked over from Newman's Bay. They had started at 3 p. m. the day before, and were thus twenty-seven hours on the road. Captain Budington made another effort to reach Newman's Bay, in order to take off the boat-parties. He ordered stoam to be gotten up at 9 p. m., and at midnight the ship was under way. A three-quarters of an hour after midnight she passed Cape Lupton. The sun, which was quite low, blinded the eyes and prevented seeing far aliead. The water seemed to extend a long distance, but at 1.50 a. m. of the 2d, the pack was again met off Cape Sumner. The ship ran c-outhwest down the face of the pack, which extended from Cape Sumner to Cape Cracroft, and through its whole extent there was no J M 386 /' :3 i 1879. JIuh •n^j^mmnce thm was possiblft .vl en the p-^iund .. ., froztu. It had been surrounded wUh ^i^>nxsi some mil .,. frans- ported lo it, and a few plauts .ec out. A noppn . .Jinder, contaiuiuL' the history of the e^ ^i.^m at the t«8scl, having fVnr; , jiay. They », and were thus tweiily-tieven Uonrni on iU. Captfii-- ^!«4inirton made anotuuf aifort to reacii Newma.i « Day, in ordor to taki. off *he boat-parties. He ordered steam to b ; gotten up .i „ 5;. uL, ml at midnight the ship wa8 under way. At three-quarters of an hour after midni-hi ^U passed Cape Lupton. The .uii, wliich '■ " funded the eyes and prevented seeini^ u.. aj.c... = :a'. vater seemed to extend a loni< distance, ^'^ ^*' ^•'" '- • 0^ the 2d, the pack w.. .^nin met off Cape Htimr-er. The ship ran south ..,. ^own the- lace of tk: pa.K. winch extended Ir < a>€ Sumner to Cape Craerott. 4ad t trough its whole .^u,m there was no 'r Troubles with Ice. opemng large enoagh to ad,»it a small boat. None could .«.. bo seen with the glass. At 10.15 a m., Kruger and '""• Siemens were landed at the ravine above Cape Luplon, to carry a letter to Mr. Chester, and also some supplies. The sh,p returned to Providence Berg at 2 p. m., and was secured by hawsers. A great change had taken place m the ice of the harbor. Providence Berg had at first been connected ou ite sontheast extremity with the land-,ce but now this had gone, and the berg stood clear. Some of the dogs not being found, it was supposed that they had gone adrift upon the ice. On the 3rd, the ice began to come down the straits approachmg the vessel; and she was moved to the southeast of the berg. At 7 p. m., a gale from the N. E.. assisted by a high tide, set adrift the land-ice; the vessel ran jut mto the straits, where she was kept under way t<^ !''v^Z^ "■• "' *" '*' "'^ *'"P ^'^ "^'^^ °"«Je ' it .^T "' ^"■^' """• """''y ''" """"J^ t»">ed in. They had been kept up all night working ship. Notwith- standmg ths, they were turned out at 6 a. m., to protect the vessel from ice drifting into the harbor, to do which at was necessary frequently to change her place. At 6 p m., aN. E. gale sprang up, bringing down with it We pieces of drift-ice, which frequently threatened to strike the ship ; they were, however, kept off by poles. 387 ■ '( ' ' 1 1 * 388 1879. Mmly, Fourth of July. At 9.30 p. m.. a pioco large enough to be called a berg bore down with great rapidity, threatening to strike the vessel amidships. Its momentum was sufficient to crush in the side of the Polaris, and its approach was watched with extreme anxiety. When within twenty feet of the ship it struck the tongue of Providence Berg, which arrested its progress, turned it off in a southerly direction, and saved the vessel. The tongue which on this occasion had rendered such providential service is the very one which had caused so much injury to the stem and fore- foot during the winter. It was both bane aud antidote. Til, 4th was to those on board the Polaris a day of very hard work, for which they had been ill prepared by their severe labors of the previous night. They had no enthusiasm to expend in celebrating the day. The gale ceased at noon of the 5th. The Polaris was then moved in toward the shore, and anchored in 13 feet of water at low tide. Mr. Bryan with Mauch shot one Sabine gull and two boatswains. At 10 p. m., the tide rising, the floes set in toward the vessel, and it was neces- sary to veer cable. At midnight, a thick fog came over from the west. At 6 a. m. of the 6th, the vessel grounded in \Vi feet of water. Dr. Bessels killed three fork-tailed gulls and two boatswains. Mauch shot a small duck of an unknown species and three dovekies. During the Ji?tur 71 of Tyson. night a light rain foil. The ice continue J to force the ves- sel farther upon the beach. The following soundings were made at 3.30 a. m., the ship heading S. 8. W. : Bow, 13 feet; midships, port side, llj ^feet; star- board side, 13 feet; stern, 12 feet. At 5.30 a. m., she heeled over so far that the scuppers were under water. A-n effort was made to haul the ship off at high water, but without success; it was necessary to wait for the night tidt At 2.30 p. m.. Hobby arrived on board and reported that Captain Tyson and his party would soon follow. At 2 a. m. of the 8th, all hpnds were called, the an- chor was hove up, the ship warped off shore, and the anchor dropped in five fathoms of water. The same hour Captain Tyson with the remainder of his crew, and Fred. Aunting, of Mr. Chester's crew, reached the vessel, having walked over from their boat-camp in twelve hours.* At 3 p. m., a N. E. gale sprang up, accompanied with rain and snow. The floes were so troublesome that the position of the ship was frequently changed. Early on the morning of the 9th, she was so severely pressed by the floes that it was necessary to resort to the saws to relieve her. These annoyances were frequent during the day and kept the men busy. 389 1S79. Mu\y. m I B-r 1^' ' For Tyson's journal on this boat journey see Appendix. ;|^y7^1jSf....p^-,^-^«j.^^^^.;^.-j^y-^ ii 390 JInif. Scow Injured. ^'••^■•y^Aot a brent-goose on the plain; it had been the source of considerable sport. When first seen Hannah wounded P in the wing so serionsly that il eonld not fly. ft was, however, very shy and fleet, and did not allow the hunters to get within range. A great deal of powder aad shot was wasted on it, and every one who fired was satisfied that his shot took effect, which led to an amusing calculation as to the amount of lead the poor goose carried about with her. On the 10th, the ice was carried away by a N E gale. On breaking out the main hold to ascertain the amount of damage done, it was found that the water had merely spoiled some sugar and molasses. At 4 a. m., of the 11th, the ship was carried where the anchor was free from ice. There was open water around the vessel for the space of dx miles, only here and there icebergs and grounded floe-pieces; at noon the ice set m again, and the scow which had been left unprotectf I at the ship-s side was stove. This scow wo. a little flat- bottomed boat made at the New York navy-yard for Dr Bessels. It had proved to be of great service in passing from the ship to shore, and in going out on short huntmg- excursions. On the 12th, new ice formed about the ship, although the temperature of the air wa. 4-38°. This was owing to the large quantity of ice in the neighborhood, and the Lost in a Snow Storm. stillness of the water. The cook killed three dovekies, and Dr. Bessels bagged a golden plover. On the 13th, the fore-peak was broken out; two barrels of sugar and one of flour were found partially damaged; the spare sails stowed there were taken out and dried. Breezes from the southwest blew all day, but the larger floes were kept off by bergs in the neighborhood of the ship. On the 14th, a very heavy snow-storm be{:iit at 3 a. m., and lasted for five hours; in the evening it rained. During the day new ice formed between the ship and the shore. On the 15th, ten dovekies were killed; the result of the next day's sport was nine dovekies, one lumne, one king-duck, and a duckling. At 6 p. ra., of the 1 6th, a light rain began to fall. One-half hour after midnight Kruger and Jamka, two of Mr. Chester's crew, arrived at the ship, having been about thirteen hours walking overland. On the 17th, Mr. Meyer returned from Newman's Bay. He was twenty- eight and one-half hours on his journey, having lost his way in a snow-stoim, and being compelled to seek shelter under a rock until the weather cleared up. At midnight the rain changed to snow. A great deal of snow fell; the mountains were covered, and there were large patches on the plain. The whole region looked as it did in the previous September. 391 1879. July. ^r" I liiiij 392 l^angers from Ice, •/.r* In the evening. Mr. Bryan and Mauch went out in the on and tL it"; 't ""^ ""' ^^'^ "^'^ -"= '^is "ue, and tliat killed on the 5th were nil t>,nf Dr. Bessefa had kept the first CTk "".^^'^ ^^^-J- he threw it away when the «" "^ """'' "^ ^'""' made a fine specLt ' "" "'""■"«''' ^"■"^ Pr„vidl!eT' ^'^ '~ •*' *" ■■'=^ ^- - ^"^ '^^^ mv.dence Bergwa« partly turned over and stood on end The ,oe was p. ed „p in aU banner of shapes on i.oZ ;^^'rti';rt ;r "^' ''''■ ^"^ ---^ resnmed if, ! , "^ ""' ""^ '«=«' *•>« ^^'S 27 W '""" ^''''"'- ^^«- Ninden.ann anf ■ close TLlJ'- "• "' "^"^^ *"' ^'^ - waa Close ,n to the third cape, and the whole strait as far as vwble, was completely blocked. On the 20th, the ice pressed very heavily a^ains't th« Polans, especially on her starboard garter. mT 1 "" °" '-'• "^-™ ''-^ '-'y ^eet^hiek, ca^! Ll:; Preparing to Leave the Ship. slowly toward her. Much doubt was felt as to her safety ; fortunately, however, when within a short distance it grounded. On striking, it broke into many pieces, which, turning over, exposed massive rocks embedded in the ice. These pieces drifted further in, and the vessel, retreating before them, took the ground in twelve feet of water. Happily she was prevented from heeUng over at low tide by several hummocks which had grounded near. Great pressure showed itself all about the harbor; Providence Berg was again pressed in toward the shore; one large floe-piece was turned on edge near the thip and towered twenty-five feet above the surface. Captain Budington says: "During the entire after- noon, while the tide was falling and not much danger ex- isted, we were clearing the hold and hoisting the provis- ions on deck so as to be prepared in case any accident should happen which would compel us to leave the ship. The hold we found partially filled at the time of low water — no water coming to the pumps. The rest of the day we did not experience any further troubles — the tide falling. The next high tide we have to expect at about 1 a. m. to-morrow morning. Night-tide, according to our observations last winter, being higher, we have to expect the worst. As we cannot move now, we must patiently wait what the ice will do with us. A northeaster would indeed be a blessing." 393 1879. July. ' tt / 394 1 87a. July. Pumping. th,t tf ^'^^ '■ ■"■' "*'"" ^'''' " '""<• '«P«rt was heard like tha of a cannon. The people rushing on deck were t\i h the watch that Providence Berg ha'd split .ZZ ' Dunng low water, the men were allowed to go hnnt- -g on the plain. They brought in seven brent-geese. three goshngs, six dovekies, the nest of a gull with five young ones, and two lemmings. At low water, on 22d, the ship heeled over so much that .t was necessary to lash the boxes and barrels. One duck and one gosling represented the sport of this day In the evening, light rain feU for a short time. Efforts were made to move the vessel at high water, but without success; at 1 a. m., of the 23d, all hands were called, when she was hauled into thirteen feet of water. While this work was carried on, Mr. Chester and Hermann Siemens amved from Newman's Bay.' They had waited to get the canvas boat into a secure place on land. At the next low t.de the ship again grounded, but was afterward hauled mto fifteen feet of water. On the 24th, Mr. Chester, who had been sick imme- d-ately upon his retorn from the boat-journey, began to show signs of ecurvy. On the 25th, two copper cylinders, containing an account of the progress of the expedition and its plans !!'!'J^!!!!!^!!'*«^^d^^r^_ch^^ • For Ctate', Journal „„ this boat Journey see AppeudlT I 39-4- July. Pumping. . to uf .. «u,„o„. The ,,eot,!e msbing .„ do,.k woro told by tt^ wa,c. .hat r.-„v,-*,nce Bor, ha.l ^pht ,.,.„de, 1 >-.nn. !. ,w wafer, the men were allowed t^ «o hnnt- 2 ■• - HHin. They brought in «ove„ bre„t-,ee.o, tft'o-t.. H.^,. ,,x dovekies, the nest of a gull w* five yonug; ones, and two lemmings. At low water, on 22d, the ship heeled over so much ,'' w"s necessary to lash the- boxes and bmrels. One duct and one gosh^ represented the sport of this day. '" '*' *^^"""«' "S''* ™-" fell for a short tiu,e. moL were n„.,,e to move the yessel at high water, but without »uu,.es»; at , a. m.. „f the 2.Sd, all hand, .ere caliod. when ' ' w,wr. While this . . , , ■ ' H«rm«riii Siemens amveu ircni Newman's Uay.' f hey ;. ,,^. .«avas boat into a secure place on land. A. u..',*« "W ade the ship again grounded, but was afterward hauled mto fifteen feet of water. On the 24th, Mr. Chester, who had been siek imme- diately upon his return from the boat-journey, began to show Bi'xn?^ r>f Fcnrvv. & "^ <^" ^iic 1'. . , ,wu copper cylinders, coutaininir an account of ^h, pro,,ress of the expedition and it. plans were t{irow.^o.,,hoard. Mr. Ciiester wa. ..n.f.ierahly •For Chester. J. unnil ou thiN boat jourm'^ ,. Appcpdix. bett 8om of t divi( the! The or te to br tions deep thick *'I am 1 1 ish A] knowE Hallos Grave. better, although his gums were still sore and his legs somewhat swollen. The whole crew, with the exception of the two engineers, the steward, and the cook, were divided into three watches, for the purpose of working the large deck-pumps to clear the vessel without steam. The ship wa^ cleared by working the large pumps eight or ten minutes an hour. On the 26th, a light wind from the southwest helped to bring in the ice, and the harbor was again filled. On the 27th, Mr. Chester added to the other inscrip- tions on Captain Hall's grave the following, cut in very deep letters, on a piece of pine wood one inch and a half thick: In memory of Chables Francis Hall, late commander tJ. S. Steamer Polaris, North Pole Expedition. Died Nov. 8th, 1871.— Aged 50 years. "I am the resurrection and the life; he that believeth on me, though he were dead, yet shall he live." The kindness and respect manifested by the Brit- ish Arctic Expedition,-at this moment authoritatively known,— is very gratefully acknowledged. 395 1879. Jaljr. 396 n 1879 Juty. Vegetation. The board was then painted and screwed to the head- board on the side opposite Schumann's inscription. During the day two dovekies were shot. On the plain the men met, on the 28th, a flock of forty geese but were unable to secure them. Two lemmings were caught, for which the sailors rigged a cage on top of the galley. This cage had glass sides and many little retreats; and much interest was shown in watching the little crea- tures and in feeding them. Early on the 29th, all were startled by a heavy shock from a floe striking the vessel amidships. Joe shot a seal ana a dovekie. Mauch, in his journal, says: "I have been out on shore this forenoon, probably for the last time this season Takmg a walk along the beach down south, I thought that I should fall in with geese, but none made themselves vis- ible. The plants are dying ofi* already; and the willows which, with their leaves of a beautiful green, gave the plain the aspect of a meadow, are now turned yellow There are very few flowers, though many seeds. JNfearly all the seed-bearing plants are fully ripe." Beginning at 7 a. m. on the 30th, a hght rain feU most of the day. Captain Budington says, in his journal of the 31st: "I have been on the summit of the high bluff just north of the observatory, where I had a view over the ice of Temperature. "the straits. Towards the north, whore Robeson Strait leads into our basin (which I would like to see called Hall's Basin), there is a body of open water, and a long streak appears to extend from there along the opposite coast, where I was able to tra^'e it as far as Cape Lieber. Abreast of our bay, about one-half a mile off, west of Providence Berg, there is a very extensive floe, taking up the greatest part of this basin. I was unable to make out any motion in the floe in either direction." The highest temperature observed during the month of July was +53°.3 F.; the lowest was +34° F.; the mean was +42°.3 F. 397 1879. July. * 1 ' CHAPTER XVII. On the 1st of August, Hans was sent to the top of IS^*- ° ^ ^ August. Observatory Bluff to report on the condition of the ice. It proved to be very compact, with the exception of a little water near the western coast. He felt a strong southwest gale on the bluff, while it was calm at the ship. Hans took daily trips to the mountain, where, to insure accuracy, he made a pencil-sketch showing the patches of open water. In this way, the captain was able to deter- mine the daily movements of the ice and to judge of the probabilities of an early opening. A careful estimate of the quantity of coal on hand was now made by the engineers, who reported that there was only enough for six days' steaming — a supply sufficient to carry the vessel, under favorable circum- stances, to Disco. Captain Budington then determined to start toward the south as soon as an opportunity presented itself. On the 2d, Mr. Odell reported that he had traveled 2« R^l J^1 i4 SI I! t: 402 1873. August. ■ OdelVs Monument. over the hills to the shore of Robeson Channel, and found it completely blocked with very heavy ice. He had for several weeks been in the habit of making daily pilgrim- ages to the summit of Observatory Bluff, where he amused himself in erecting a high pillar of stone. It was nearly six feet square at the base and from eight to ten feet in height, and was compactly built. Upon one of the largest stones in its side, he cut his initials, the name of the vessel, and the date. As a large flock of brent-geese was flying past the vessel at a distance of not more than fifty yards, Hobby killed one with a Ipall from a Sharp's rifle. On the 3d, from 2 to 4 a. m., rain fell. At 2 a. m. of the 4th, a very high tide brought off the large floe to which the Polaris was attached, and, as it floated off, the hawser which connected it with the vessel parted; the ice in general was loosened, and some sunken pieces rose up, striking the ship with considerable force. The hummocky pieces forced her astern, and her motion in that direction was accelerated by attempts to haul in the cable. The consequence was that the ship grounded, and, at low water, there was at the stern a depth of four feet less than she drew. At the next high tide, however, she again easily floated. During the day, a great many dovekies were shot, and about two dozen snipes. The sun at mid- night now disappeared behind the bluff. At 1.30 a. m. on the 5th, all hands were startled by Shoenmker. a very severe blow which the vessel received on her star- board quarter from a floe turning over. Young ice now began to form about the ship whenever it was calm. Hans went out in his kyak toward the south, and shot three brent-geese and several plovers. About six miles down the beach, he found one of the best hunting-dogs (a very excellent musk-ox hunter), wounded, probably by a musk-ox. His name was "Shoemaker". He had been missed eight days. One of the seamen immediately started down the coast to carry some food to the sufferer, and, on the 6th, Hermann Siemens and Peter Johnson went down to bring "Shoemaker" to the ship. They carried him in a blanket, which was slung on a pole borne on their shoulders. The poor dog was very much cut up; there was a hole in his side between two of his ribs, and one through the fleshy part of his leg. These holes wc:e about the size of a musk-ox horn ; his belly was goiod and cut, and nearly all the skin taken off: The two Esquimaux were out nil day in their kyaks. They found many geese. Hans shot tliirtccn and Joe twelve, of which several were goslings. One of the crow shot a boatswain and several plovers. Kruger and Hobby obtained permission to go to Kew- man's Bay after the clothes which they had been com- pelled to leave there. Captain Budington says in his journal: "Each of them belonging to a difierent watch, I 403 1879. August. I .1 I ■f fl 404 1879. Aug:nat. Thoughts on Betiirn. "granted their request, as one man always can be spared and seven can work the pumps. They left hi the afternoon. However, I found myself forced to give them especial orders to return immediately in case they should encounter a northeast breeze, for I intend to take the first oppor- tunity I get to leave this harbor. A delay at this ad- vanced season will most probably prove fatal. As we will be unable to keep the vessel afloat in her present condition during another winter, we will be compelled to run her on the beach. I have always been living in hopes that we should get farther north with the vessel; but this season is so unfavorable, the ice being so compact and close, that we may almost consider our return this year an impossibility. Since the return of the boat-parties, we have not had an opportunity to start north; and, even if we had such an opportunity now, it would not be at all advis- able, without enough coal, to risk it with a vessel like ours at this advanced state of the season." On the 8th, all hands rejoiced to hear from the hill- top that there was open water not more than eight miles from the vessel. The Esquimaux shot four seals, but were able to secure but one. At 3 a. m. of the 9th, the two seamen returned from Newman's Bay, and reported that there were a few leads in the ice toward the north, but that south and west, it was very close. At 11 a. m., Meyer, Siemens, and Lindqvist started for Newman's Bay; Photographic Views. the first, to recover some instruments; the last two, to get their clothes. They reached the boats at 7 p. m., the traveling being very good, as the land was free from snow, and the streams in the ravines were either very low or completely dried up. Captain Tyson saw open water from the crow's nest, four or five miles distant. Hans shot two seals, although he only brought one to the ship. At this season of the year, the seals are not very fat, and when killed sink quickly, so that the hunter must be active to secure them. On the 10th, a light wind from the K W. sprang up, but did not last long ; the hope that the ice would be driven to the southward was not realized. Dr. Bessels, assisted by Hayes, was engaged in making preparations for taking photographic views; they were not, however, successful. A number of snipes and turnstones were shot. At 10 p. m., Mr. Meyer and party returned from Newman's Bay. He brought for the doctor his valua- ble microscope, which had been left there with the boat. Siemens in his journal says : " Ofi" Newman's Bay, the strait was beset all over; not a single strip of open water being visible." Thin ice now began to form every night between the ship and the shore, and it became difficult to force the scow through it. It is noticed in one of the journals that the ice thus formed was quite fresh. 406 1873. Augast. 406 Charles Polaris Hendrick. 1879. 4 On the nth, the ice of the straits was observed to be in motion, drifting to the south. A luige space near the observatory was covered by a luxurious growth of wheat about eight inches in height. Among the stores that had been placed on shore was a barrel of wheat. In moving this, its head was broken in, and a quantity was scattered on the ground, which had grown up, presenting the appearance of a verdant oasis. The dogs were very fond of nibbling the tender stalks. At 6 a. m. of the 12th, Mrs. Hans Hendrick was safely delivered of a boy. , All were much surprised and pleased at the advent of the little stranger, who was unani- mously named by the crew Charles Polaris Hendrick. Hans, from his trip to the hill, brought back such a favorable report that Captain Budington went to examine the ice. He decided that it would be safe to try to force the vessel through, but sent Captain Tyson up to the hill, who returned at noon confirming his own judgment. Ac- cordingly, every preparation was at once made. The dogs, twenty-one in number, were taken on board. An effort to get the anchor proved unsuccessful, in consequence of the ice resting on it ; Providence Berg had not yet released the other anchor, so that both had to be abandoned. A list of the stores left on shore will be found in Appendix No. 2. These were intended as a provision for a future emergency. u 406 AairnMu Charks Polaris Beuanvi:. On the nth, the ice of the straits was observed to be iu motiou, drifting to the south. A laro^o 8pa€o near the observatory was covered by a luxurious frrowtli of wheat about eight inches in height. Among the stores that had been pUiced on shore was a barrel of wheat. In moving this, its h«'ad was broken in, and a quantity was scattered on the ground, which had grown up, presenting the appearance of a verdant oasis. The dogs were very fond of nibbling the tender stalks. At 6 a. m. of the 12th, Mrs. Hans Hendrick was safely delivered of a boy. , All ^vere much surprised and pleased av ..k .»dv*nit of the little stranger, who was unani- mously narm ! ' tu«i?ri»W' -is If AfiflrjV^ ilaus, from his trip to the hiii, brought back such a favorable report tluit ra|)tain Biidington went to examine the ice. Ee decided that it would be safe to try to force the vessel through, but sent Captain Tyson up to the hill, who returned at noon confirming his own judgment. Ac- cordingly, every preparation wa« at once made. The do^-s twenty-ono in number, were taken on board. An eflbrt to get the HSi.^jor proved unsuccessful, In consequence of the ice resting on if ; Provid. ice Berg had not yeA released the other arjchor, so that both had to be abimdonod. A list of the stores left on shore will be found in Appendix No. 2. These were intended us a provision for a future emergency. 1 CO m CD ! r r s ■ ■ fl fi Leave Thank-Ood Harbor. At 4.30 p. m., the engines were started, and the Polaris left Thank-God Harbor. Just as the vessel got in motion, one of the best dogs, a Newfoundland, named Tiger, leaped over the stern bulwarks upon the ice. His loss was greatly regretted ; ho was a general favorite. The ice was quite compact; but, with great care, the vessel was piloted between the heavy floes, changing her course frequently, but always gaining ground ; she labored heavily all night. At 5 a. m. of the 13th, the open water which had been seen from Observatory Bluif was reached, and the vessel seemed to rush with extraordinary speed, until it was necessary to shorten sail, on account of the thick fog, which lasted an hour. The coasts on either side were carefully examined, and it was discovered that there were several glaciers on Grinnell Land, although none of them had discharges into Kennedy Channel. At 9 a. m., a very close and impenetrable pack was encountered. The vessel was tied to a large floe, and drifted slowly down the channel with the pack ; about noon, she was quite near Hans Island and west of it. The latitude by observation was 80° 48' N; longitude, 68° 38' W. The ship continued to drift, and at 7 p. m., was midway between Hans and Franklin Islands, which are ten miles distant from each other. Soundings were taken at a depth of 203 fathoms, with a bottom of black limestone. The temper- 407 i 1§79. I 408 Cape Constitution. a'»»««* ^'^"'"^ ^* *^^* ^®P*^ ^*^ ^2-®' *n^ *^o specific gravity 1.0281. At 1 1 p. m., the ice opened somewhat, and one hour's hard labor secured an advance of one mile. During the morning of the 14th, several unsuccessful attempts at farther progress were made, and, at noon, the opening of a lane enabled the ship to get close to Franklin Island in forty- five minutes. On passing it, the grand spectacle of a huge land-slide was witnessed, in which immense clouds of dust were raised, accompanied by a loud noise. At 2.45 p. m.. Cape Constitution was passed, which Morton and Hans both recognized as the highest point reached by them on their memorable sledge-journey when with Kane, in the spring of 1854. During the day, Hans shot a small seal. At 1 1 a. m., a very close pack was en- countered, and it was necessary to secure the vessel to one of the floes. By a subpolar altitude of the sun, the lati- tude of 80° 02' N. was obtained. Several unsuccessful efibrts were made to force a way through the ice ; at 10 a. m. on the 15th, it opened somewhat, and the vessel was a^ain started ; after a few hours, however, the ice once more closed, and the engines were slopped, having propelled the ship about six miles toward the west. At a. m. of the 16th, Mr. Meyer obtained, by the change in the sun's altitude on the prime- vertical, 80°0r X. for the latitude. The Polaris remained all day fast to the „ Warping. floe. There was now only coal enough for four days* steaming ; the prospect of reaching Disco during the fall began to look dismal. The latitude obtained at noon was 79° 59' N. On the 17th, the ship received a slight nip, which made her heel considerably. Every preparation was made to have things ready to be thrown, if necessary, upon the ice. Water was seen at an estimated distance of eif^ht miles to the south, but it was impossible to reach it. At 10 p. m., the vessel received another severe nip, which con- tinued for an hour, and was attended with considerable heel. The latitude at noon of the 1 8th was 79° 44' 30" N. Henry and Baohe Islands could be seen from the crow's nest. On the 19th, soundings were made, and the depth found to vary from ninety to ninety-five fathoms. The ship was now being pumped by steam, and, the leak hav- ing very considerably increased, the pump was kept going twelve hours out of the twenty-four. At 10 a. m., a large floe to the north began to move, and would have struck the vessel had she not been at once warped a short dis- tance ahead and secured in a bight. The removal had scarcely been effected when a collision of the two floes occurred with great force, exactly where the ship had been moored. During the 20th, light rain fell at intervals, making everything disagreeable. Notwithstanding this, the crew 409 1879. AuVHNt. 410 If A Severe Nip. I Aw«. "^^ employed in constantly moving the ship to save her from being caught between floes. It was aggravating to see clear water at a distance, to which there was no access. During the prevalence of a S. W. wind, it was thought that the vessel was drifting to the north; but at 4 p. m., the wind shifting to the north, the southerly drift was un- mistakable. Latitude at noon, 79° 42' IST. On the 21st, the fires were drawn to give the engineers an opportunity to repair the little boiler ; in the mean time, the deck-pumps were started to keep the ship clear. It was then manifest that the ship was leaking much more than she did when in Thank-God Harbor. The latitude at noon was 79° 39' N. At 1 p. m., the vessel suffered a very severe nip, which listed her over to port so much as to be decidedly uncomfo table. A southwest gale prevailed on the 22d, and a light rain fell for several hours. The dogs, for the first time since leaving Thank-God Harbor, were allowed to go on the ice. The latitude, at noon of the 23d, was 79° 37' N. Mag- netic bearings were taken daily for the correction of the coast-lines, and some grave errors in that of Grinnell Land were noticed. The temperature during the night now began to be as low as 28°; its effect was very plain. At 6 a. m. of the 24th, a breeze from the north sprang up, and assisted the current very materially m carrying the vessel toward the south. Heavy Floes. 411 At 9 a. m., the ice opened somewhat, and, steam 18T». having been raised in the little boiler, it was hoped that "'"*** some progress might be made ; but the lead closed before the vessel started. The land explored by Kane south of the great Humboldt Glacier was now plainly visible in clear weather. A great line of bergs stretched out from Humboldt Glacier similar to that seen when the Polaris was passing up through Smith's Sound. The vessel was nipped several times during the day, but not severely ; she gave proof of her strength and of her fitness for ice-navigation. The temperature during the night fell to 26°.6, new ice being rapidly formed, half an inch in thickness. Mauch says in his journal of the 25th : " The ice is opening a few hundred yards from us, but so little that we cannot take advantage of it. The surrounding ice consists of heavy floes, between which it would not be advisable to try to force the ship ; her fate would soon be sealed. Although our prospects for a release are somewhat dreary- looking, nobody appears to be down-hearted, a fact which makes me conclude one thing, that they do not appreciate a winter in the pack, or that they are Arctic heroes, fit for such expeditions. The officers are, of course, aware that, ten chances to one, we are lost if we should not be able to reach the land; but they do well in not expressing their feelings, so as to keep up good spirits among the ship's com nan V, » 412 isra. August. Working Through the Ice. At 10 p. m., one of the men shot a large seal from the vessel; the scow was lowered, and the seal secured. At 6 a. m. on the 26th, the ice again opened, and the captain ordered steam to he raised, hoping to be able to find a passage. At 8 a. m., he cast off, and, having crossed the open space of water, entered the only lead in Its neighborhood. Following it with great difficulty through its intricate windings, he found it to be a blind lead. At 10 a. m., it closed, when the Polaris, having for a whole hour worked in vain te force herself through was tied up te a floe. The drift during the day seem^'ed te be teward the east. Latitude at noon, 79° 36' 30" N. The blades of the propeller were found te be some- what bent. Every precaution was taken te keep the well free. While the ship was in motion, a man was sta- tioned there te signal for the engine te be stopped when- ever the blades were about te strike a piece of ice. Not- withstanding this care, tiie blades had suffered. The sun, which since April had remained above the horizon, now disappeared for a short time at midnight. On the 27th, every preparation was made for Tpossi- ble abandonment of the vessel. Considerable open water could be seen toward the west, but it was wholly inac- cessible. Rensselaer Bay and Cape Isabella, or land "ear them, could be seen from the mast-head. To- ward evening, the pressure being slack, the vessel wa^ Battling with the Floes. 413 warped between the floes which had brought her up the 187*. day before. On the 28th, there were several leads not far to the west, but the ice was too close to enter them. The ves- sel was warped for several hours without making much progress. Latitude at noon, 79° 35' 47" N.; longitude at 6 p. m., 69° 09' W. On the 29th, toward evening, water was seen to the westward not more than three miles distant, and an attempt was again made to warp the vessel through a lead which promised to afford an opening. After four hours' hard work, the young ice, which was two-thirds of an inch thick, proved to bo too great an obstacle, and steam was raised to overcome it. The vessel worked laboriously until 6 a. m. of the 80th, but during all these hours suc- ceeded in pulling out of the way only one small piece of floe ; this allowed her to advance not more than once her own length. The latitude at noon was 79° 35' N. One ivory-gull was seen during this day — the only thing of life in all that waste of ice. By observation of the land, the vessel seemed to drift on tiie 31st, a few miles N. then S., and so on, first in one direction and then in the other. Her drift to the E., and her delay at this point, were attributed to a discharge of ice from Hayes' Sound. Another sugges- Hnn \xriM flinf RmJl-ll'a Sf»«Oif v«rod nofiinllTr l%l/\«lrr.rl nr> tx-nA I i1 m 414 The Drift During September. >' fc' 4."^/'^.'" ">« '■'^« P'-e^^ing down from the north, and meet.W this remtanco, passed to the eastward to fill „p Smith's bound. ■ The highest temperature observed on board the ship dunng the month of August was 52°.8 P.; the lowest was 28».9 F.; while the mean was 37° F. The drift of the vessel during the month of Septem- ber was mconsiderable, averaging m much more than a rrirlo a day; she probably never drifted N., but prin- e,paUy toward the S. and W. Southerly winds cheLd her at times, and again she remained nearly station- ary dunng periods of ealm; her movements being gov- erned d„,et,3, by those of the ice. The vessel on the 3d of te month was in latitude 79° 34' N., and longitude 68 o6 W. On the 28th, her longitude was 70° 48' W and her latitude on the 30th, was 79° 02' N. No very severe gales occurred during the month. Th,s was a disappointment. A strong gale from almost any quarter would have broken up the ice, and made an openmg by which she eould have worked her way to the southward. The ship's company were wilUng to risk the dangers of such a gale for the benefit it would confer The following is a summary of the weather durin.. beptember. It rained from Uo 3 a. m. of the 1st, and dur! .ng the first part of the 2d. From 4 p. m. to 10 p. m. on the 2d, snow fell. From the 18th to the 26th inclusive SSS^SiS3&s:sEssmui.i '4 I Condition of the Ice. 415 with the exception of the 23d, snow fell every day, almost 187a. always from midnight until 5 or 6 o'clock in the morn- **"*'•""**' ing. The fall at any one time was not heavy, although the whole p mount during the eight days was large. Thick fog gathered about the ship at 7 p. m. of the 3d, and con- tinued throughout the 4th. On the 9th and 10th, it renewed itself, and again on the 15th and the 30th. One of its effects was to cover the spars and rigging with great ice-crystals, which gave the vessel a wintery appearance. The condition of the ice during this month was as fol- lows. On the 1st, a few detached pools of water were seen, the land being on this day covered, as it was also on the 29th, with thick clouds. On the 2d, the ice was quite active, moving in various directions and piling up large hummocks. On the 4th, the young ice had become suf- ficiently thick to bear the dogs. On the 8th, an open space of water was seen to the east of the ship, but entirely inclosed. On the 11th, the few open spaces to the north and west were not large enough to tempt the captain to try to get the vessel into them. .\c 8 p. m. on the 14th, a large floe moved down toward the vessel, breaking up in its progress young ice four inches in thickness. For- tunately, some larger ice interrupted and arrested its progress. On the 15th, there was a slight motion in the ice, which, however, produced no effect on the vessel On li J 416 Preparations for Disaster. seieLtcr ''''' ^'^^^' "P®" ^^^^'^ ^tts Been to the S. W. and W., not more than five miles distant. It was an opening which would be closed in a moment, and yet the idle fancy indulged itself in imagining what might be done by a vessel in a couple of days in such water and in certain directions. It had, however, become the universal opinion that the ship would winter in the pack. At 9 a. m. of the 30th, the floes— between which the vessel was— sepa- rated and left an open space seventy-five yards wide on the starboard side of the ship. At 9 p. m. of the 16th, the full moon rising in the east was distorted, being twice its natural size and very red. The light had diminished so much, on the 27th, that a lantern had to be used to read the instruments from 8 p. m. to 4 a. m. On the 2d, the hold had been cleared out, and twenty barrels of pork and four tierces of molasses were brought up on deck. In order to have everything in readiness for disaster, the gaff-topsail and the storm-staysail— sails that were not of much use under even the most favorable cir- cumstances—were unbent and cut up into bags for bread and coal ; and, on the 4th, two tons of coal were brought on deck in the bags. On the 10th, the stores from the rooms forward of the men's quarters were also taken on decjc. It began now to be necessary to have lamp i about Drinking- Water. 417 the ship, and the only kind of oil that remained, in any 1 87a. quantity, was seal-oil. The Esquimaux were expected to **"*•*""**' catch a sufficient number of seals during the winter to keep the ship supplied with oil. Among the stores, there were one or two students' lamps, which, on the 11th, were tried with seal-oil, and found to work admirably, after arrangements had been made to regulate the flow. Drinking-water was obtained from the pools in the floe, and sledded to the ship. It was found, however, to be somewhat biackish, and it was feared that it would prove deleterious. Special care was taken to get the water as fresh as possible; but, as the ice increased over the little ponds, their water became unfit for use ; ice was then obtained from some bergs in the neighborhood, or from the tops of old hummocks. Some changes were now made in the ship to add to the comfort of the ofl^icers. The forward state-room on the starboard side, occupied bj Mr. Chester and Captain Ty- son, was enlarged by taking in the passage-way; a small stove gave them sufficient warmth, and a hurricane-house was built over the entrance to their room. Joe's room which adjoined Mr. Chester's, was enlarged in the same way; its entrance being aft, from the passage-way. To protect the cabin, a door was cut through into the starboard passage-way, and the door leading directly- out of the cabin was closed. 27 418 House on the Floe. IS 79. September I Hans and his family having returned to the forward state-room, occupied by them during the winter, the cook and iiis culinary utensils were removed down to the lower cabin. The pipe from the galley-stove led up through the upper cabin, and was expected to afford con- siderable heat there. On the 16th, a house on the floe was begun. This floe, to which the vessel had been attached for a lono- time, was about three miles in circumference, and nearly round. It was quite a heavy floe; its average height above the level of the water being about five feet. Its surface was very broken, and many of its depres- sions contained fresh-water ponds. Its edges were piled high with hummocks, thrown upon it by severe ice- pressure. A large lake was selected, about two hundred yards from the ship, the smooth surface of which was made the site of the house. The lake was protected on the north and south by high ridges of hummocks. Captain Tyson was appointed master-builder, and was assisted by Morton, Bryan, Mauch, and Esquimaux Joe. The house was designed to be 27 feet by 24, and to face toward the S. E. Holes were dug in the ice for poles, in which they were allowed to freeze. Twelve were set on each side, and three large ones placed across the center to support the roof, which was to be of canvas. The Leah 419 In sinking tLo largo poles, the floe was cut entirely 1879. through at a depth of six feet. September The leak in the Polaris continued to give trouble ; nine hundred pounds of coal were used daily in working the pumps. Many plans fbr stopping the leak were tried without success; Chester and the carpenter went down into the forepeak, and worked in vain at it several hours. It was then decided to attempt freezing the water in the vessel, and 90 fathoms of small chain were payed down the forepeak into the water— to hasten the freezing of which a wind-sail was rigged to carry the air down upon the chain. On the 11th, the ice having been cut away, a sail was stretched under the bows. Again, on the 13th, it was attempted to make f^e after bulkhead of the fore- peak water-tight. At the same time, oakum was stuffed into the leak on the outside under the sail. But after all had been done, the leak proved to be ps bad as ever. The engineer now turned his attention to a more econom- ical use of fuel in keeping the ship clear. In the fire- room, there was a small boiler designed to be used with the apparatus for burning oil. Schumann believed that if he could fix up this boiler and make the proper connec- tion, he could raise sufficient steam to keep the donkey- pump at work— a pump which had only been intended to fill the engine- boilers with water. The boiler was moved aft and secured to a bed made for it ; and its smoke-pipe m\ 420 The Little Boiler. I: ■•4 .•I«!L';r ^"^ '"" "P ^^''^"fe'^ J««'8 room to boat it. Fortunately, it was made to work very well, consumin^r only 350 pounds of coal a day, and keeping the pump constantly going. A careful estimate on the 23d, of the quantity of coal still on hand gave 20 tonl. The constant work, day and night, of the little pump, proving too much for it, it broke down on the 29th. The bilge-pump was set to work while the former was repaired. In these emer- gencies, everything depended on the skill and industry of Mr. Schumann. His energy and resources rose with the occasion ; and ho was ably seconded by his assistants, especially by Booth. The second whale-boat was now taken off the house, where it had been stowed, and hung on the forward davits on the port side, to be ready to be lowered at a moment's warning. During the first two weeks of the month, many birds and seals were seen, but none killed. A turnstone was seen on the 3d; a flock of dovekies on the 9th; dovekies, eider- ducks, and three seals on the 10th ; and a few seals on the 13th. During the i.cxt week, Hans was the successful hunter, although both natives went out every day, and, skirting the edge of the floe, watched for seals in the open spaces or in the young ice. Hans shot three dovekies on the 14th, and on the 16th, 18th, and also on the 21st, suc- ceeded in catching a seal. On the 18th, Joe saw some Scurvy. walrus, and fired at thorn without success. During the next week, Joe was more fortunate, shooting two seals on the 22d, one on the 23d, one on the 24th, two on the 26th, three on the 28th, one on the 29th, and one on the 30th. On the last of these days, many other seals and also some eider-ducks were seen. Hans did not meet with so much success, but caught one seal on the 28th and one on the 29th. A large number of the seals were immediately eaten, and many were stored by the captain, who thus commenced laying up provision for the winter. While hunting on the 24th, Joe had quite an advent- ure. He had killed a seal in open water not far from the edge of the floe, and, not having his kyak with him, he ventured after the seal on a cake of ice. The cake broke into two pieces, and as neither piece singly had sufficient buoyancy to bear him, he placed one foot on each, and, catching his harpoon in the firm ice, slowly drew him- self in with his prize. Mr. Meyer began to show signs of scurvy. At first it was thought to be rheumatism; but bis leg became drawn up so badly that he was only able to touch the toe of his foot to the ground. He was very reluctant to take the medicine which the captain prescribed, namely, fresh seal-blood and raw meat. It was, however, prepared in various ways, and his principal diet for a long time was 4seal. He recovered slowly under that regimen. 421 1879. S«^pt<>niber i 422 Hans' Adventure. 1879. October. -1^; On the Ist of this month, there was considerable movement in the ice, and the large floes were heard grinding against each other and crushing the young ice. The vessel did not, however, suffer ; the projections on either side of the bight, in which she lay, kept off" the heavy floes. A good deal of open water was seen to the S. and S. E. along the land. The latitude observed on this day was 79° 00' N. The minimum temperature dur- ing the previous night was —1 °.6 Fahr. This was the first time since the winter that the thermometer had fallen below zero. The hours of the previous winter, for meals, were now resumed; breakfast being at 9 a. m. and dinner at 3 p. m. Mr. Chester tapped a barrel of beer, which he had pre- pared, and it received the hearty commendation of those who tried it. Hans succeeded in catching a seal under unfavorable circumstances. He killed the animal, and, in order to reach it, he used a small piece of ice as a float, ferrying himself out in the little pool. When in the midst of the water, the ice closed ; the little piece of ice upon which he was, turned over, and Hans got a ducking ; he was res- cued with the assistance of Joe, after much labor; like a good fellow, he kept fast to the seal all the time, and brought it to the ship. On the 2d, the vessel sufi*ered a slight pressure. Robert The Polaris Near the Land. 423 Kruger shot a seal, and Joe was equally successful. At 11.30 p. m., Mr. Bryan determined, by observing the altitudes of two stars, the ship's position to be, latitude 78° 59' N., longitude 70° 35' W. , On the 3d, the vessel experienced a very severe nip. In the morning, Joe caught a large ookgook, and in the afternoon a smaller seal. The ookgook was 8 feet long and 6 feet in circumference; it was supposed to weigh 600 pounds and to contain a barrel of oil. An eider-duck and an Arctic owl were seen near the vessel. Latitude observed, 78° 58' N. The ship was in a thick fog on the 4th from 3 to 8 a. m. ; she was rapidly approaching the land ; Hensselaer Harbor was thought to be not more than twenty miles distant. Captain Tyson finished the frame of the house on the floe ; it stood ready for its canvas covering. Mr. Meyer's scurvy had almost disappeared. Two eider-ducks were seen on the water near the ship. Hans caught a seal, and Joe brought three to the ship. The two Esquimaux went out regularly every day, and walked along the edge of the floe, watching for seals in the little pools that were formed at different points. They were watched from the vessel with a glass, and whenever the signal was made, the dogs were harnessed, and carrying the scow, were driven with great rapidity to the place to bring back the seals. On 1879. October. ii I ij 424 1873. October. U:i h Three Seals Killed. this day, Joe signaled that he had killed a seal, and Jamka, who was nearly always on watch, with Aunting, started at once with the dog-team. Jamka was the most successful dog-driver in the crew. They launched the scow, and had just landed the seal on the ice, when an- other bobbed up its head to see what was going on, and Joe shot it. As they were paddling after the second, a third appeared, and looked inquiringly around. He stayed up long enough for Joe to level his rifle at him, and was added as another trophy. On the 5th, the ice moved considerably; the floe swinging round and the' vessel shifting her head from N. N. W. to W. i N. The house on the floe was now covered with canvas made from the awnings which had been spread over the deck the winter before. From 5 to 10 a. m. on the 6th, a gale from the south prevailed with snow. The latitude observed was 78° 57' 30" N. Snow fell on the 7th from 2 to 7 a, m. Part of the crew were employed in finishing the house on the floe, and another part in hauling ice to the ship. The engi- neers had made arrangements to melt ice, so as to have fresh water for the little boiler. Mr. Schumann had fitted a blow-off" so as to clear out the salt that was left in the boiler, but it did not keep the boiler entirely free from incrustations ; it was thought best to use fresh water. Joe caught another seal, and he found that a snow wall A Bear. which he had erected to shield him from the winds while waiting for seals had been torn down by a bear, and that the animal had followed him nearly to the ship. On the 8th, the house on the floe was completely fin- ished. Hans caught two seals and Joe, one. So many had now been caught that it was thought there would be enough blubber to supply oil for the winter's use ; and so much meat had been packed away that no apprehension was entertained of scurvy during the winter. The lati- tude observed was 78° 47' 45" N. On the 9th, there was much motion in the ice. Many large hummocks were found, and the vessel drifted rap- idly. Mr. Meyer, by the bearings of two or three promi- nent capes, determined the ship's position to be latitude 78° 45' N., longitude 70° 15' W. Eighteen hundred pounds of bread were placed in bags and carried to the house on the floe. Hans caught two seals. Two of the men out hunting saw a bear. They fired several shots at it, but failed in wounding it mortally ; it escaped over the rough hummocks toward the shore. When this was re- ported at the ship, there was a general rush with all sorts of weapons toward the scene of action, but Bruin was out of sight. On the 10th, Cape Grinnell was thought to be twelve miles distant. The leak in the Polaris had somewhat dimin- ished, and it was hoped that soon the water in the fore- 425 isra. October. n 426 Passing Cairn Point, oc.!rf;. P'^^ ^^"^^ fr^^^^ »P and no more pumping would be needed. Two seals were caught. On the 11th, the hnt at Anowaytok, mentioned by Kane, was seen, and recognized by both Morton and Hans. It was about six miles from the vessel which now began to drift very fast, and there seemed to be a prospect of her passing out of Smith's Sound before the winter. Many, however, still beheved that the Polaris would be detained there until the following summer. Joe caught a seal. Some alterations were made in the seamen's quarters to insure greater comfort. At 8 a. m. of the 12th, Cairn Point was only two miles to the S. E., and the ship was moving rapidly. At 9 a. m., two parhelia were seen. The latitude ob- served at noon was 78° 28' 21" K Joe caught a seal. The little donkey.pump again broke down, and while the engineers were engaged in repairing it the bilge-pump in the starboard passage-way was used to .keep the vessel clear. On the 13th, Gale Point was due west at noon. The N. E. gale which had been prevailing for two or three days had materially assisted in carrying the vessel to the southward. During the morning of the 14th, the vessel was drifting quite rapidly down the middle of the straits. The floe was turning, and at times it made a com- plete revolution. The tracks of three bears, one old , I Northumberland Island. one and two cubs, were seen near the vessel. They were probably prevented by the dogs from coming nearer. Joe caught a seal during the day. Mr. Meyer was entirely restored, and was in perfectly good health and spirits. Northumberland Island was now in sight, far to the S. E. A fresh breeze from the west sprang up toward eveuing. At 5 a. m. of the 15th, a very heavy snow began to fall, and continued until 8 a. m., when the wind blew so hard that it was impossible to distinguish between the falling and the drifting snow. The gale increased to 40 miles an hour, and continued all day, driving the vessel with its surrounding ice with great rapidity. It com- menced to blow from the S. E., but shifted to the S., and finally to the S. W. During its prevalence, the air was so completely filled with the flying snow that one could not see more than 20 or 30 feet. The ship had remained fast to the floe so long, and drifted with it so far, that no particular anxiety was felt as to the result. The captain had, however, always said that if the vessel passed through Smith's Strait, he would not feel easy until the ice in which she lay, had joined the regular Bafiin's Bay pack. The "north-water", as it is called by whale- men, is always found in the northern part of Baffin's Bay; and he knew that, were this safely crossed, the ship would 427 1879. October. 428 1879. October. ii k Drifting Rapidly. float quietly down with the pack all winter, and be released in the spring far to the south. The direction in which the vessel was moving was a matter of speculation; the fact of her moving was ad- mitted. The daily work being done, after dinner the men settled themselves down as usual for the enjoyments of the evening. At 6 p. m., it was reported that the star- board side of the vessel was free from ice. The captain turned up the people, and secured the ship by an addi- tional hawser to the floe. This extra hawser was over the stern, and led from a large ice-anchor, sunk in the floe, to the main-mast. Two hawsers had served during the whole of the drift to hold the Polaris to the floe, one^'over the bows and one over the stern. Final preparations were made to abandon the vessel; nearly everything had been got ready on deck; the sea- men still had their clothes and personal efifects to look after. The Polaris was driven along at a very rapid rate. Many eager faces looked over the rail and peered into the darkness and the gloom, wondering what would happen next. The sky was threatening. The moon struggled in vain to break through the clouds. Two icebergs were passed in close proximity. Some judgment could be formed by means of them as to the rapidity with which the vessel was moving. One could scarcely help shnd- y m 'm m »1 is 'mm 1 _..__ 1 jt i 1 i II; I* * 428 Drifting Uapidly, flurti (quietly down wJri, tho pack all wintur. an<] be rrlcased ill 'he sprinu' jar to tli.- south. The direction in whicli tho vessel was moving was a matter of Hpe.',ii]atioii; the fact of lier moving- was ad- mitted. The daily work bein^r dono, after dinner tho nuni settled tbeniselves do.vu as nsual (or the enjovments of t]ie evening. At « p. ,.,., if was repoiLcd that' the star- board side of the vessel wa. i,ve from ice. The captain turned up the peoplo, and secuu-d the ship bv an addi- tional hawser to the iloe. Tiiis extra hawser was over tile stern, and led from a large iee-anchor, Knnk in t ho (]o(., to n.o main-hinst. Two hawser, bad served during the " ■ ' '% to hold the PolarjH to tbe iloe, one over '* '' ^-''ws and one over '••ea- ■■ "^^loii the n...> '"- ""iHiv on atjci. Vi :' -Ui\ ]iau tiu;,r c!oUic . aiid pert^onal eilbcts to look ;*ftpr. Tho J>olavi. .X.,, ^nven along at a very .apid rate. M:.nv ea.- . i .ko-' <.ver ffu- rail and peered into the ^^ ' i- "< 'i;: wondering what would huppc: tiii«atening. The moon struuf>jeiear the crack. Every one moved over and slept in the Lonre, with the exception of the two engineers -ho stil: ; ipt the engine moving. Reindeer tracks were now seen near the ship. On the 23d, Mr. Chester extenucv' the house io provide a store-room equally as wide, and nearly as long; it was built on the southwestern end, and inclosed 29 <0. 450 The Polaris Abandoned. oc*«5e*: *^«g^"^y- The door being at the same end, the store- room answered the purpose also of an ante-room, keeping out the weather. The two engineers came over with the cat, leaving on the Polaris at night only the firemen and the Esquimaux. Their work being finished, the Esqui- maux returned to their homes early on tiie 24th, having received many presents. During the day, the bunkers and bulkheads below deck were torn down, and every useful thing was carried to the upper deck. At 6 p. m., the pump was allowed to stop, and thus the final act of abandonment was executed. ^1. On the 25th, it was discovered, on examination, that there were but six tons of coal remaining. A great deal of lumber, however, had been brought on shore, and more could be obtained from the wreck during the winter. The water had risen during the night five feet above the fire- room floor. Mr. Bryan with Mauch went hunting ; they crossed to Littleton Island, but saw no game. Dr. Bessels fol- lowed them, with the same ill success ; upon his return, however, he shot a blue fox near the house. This day an Esquimaux arrived at the house with his family, consisting of his wife and two children, a boy of four, and a girl of about two years of age. They lived at the head of Eoulke Fiord. The captain at once noticed A Tattooed Esquimaux. that the woman had her face tattooed, and said that she must have come from the West-land, as tattooing was a custom which did not obtain among the East-land natives. After some conversation, the captain ascertained that his surmise was correct. A party in an oomiak and five kyaks had crossed over, four or five years before, and these were the only survivors. They had introduced the use of the bow and arrow. Kane and Hayes particularly mentic-: that the Smith Sound natives did not use that weapon. The woman was very intelligent and readily understood the captain. On the 26th, the water had risen in the vessel to within three feet of the upper deck. A very severe wind from the N. E. sprang up, but was not much felt. The weather fortunately had remained fine until the party from the ship had become established, and had made them- selves comfortable in their new quarters. They could not, however, help speculating upon the fate of their late com- panions, wondering if they were exposed to this storm with no shelter. The general opinion was that Tyson had been able to effect a landing with his men, somewhere to the south, and that he would probably use his dogs, sleds, and boats to travel up the coast and rejoin the main party. A large number of Esquimaux, comprising the whole population of Etah, consisting of nine men, three women, and eight children, now made their appearance. Most of 451 1879. October. i ■ 452 An Exciting Chase. i( ■ I - olfol?;. *^^ '^^'^ ^^^ ^^®° ^" ^^^'^^i t^« vessel before. They could give no information respecting Tyson and his people, not- withstanding the many and pressing questions put to them. These natives brought some walrus meat. Mr. Chester started oflf on a deer-hunt with the West- land native and his family. Hobby shot a blue fox near the house. The Esquimaux attempted to pass the night in the ship, but when the vessel heeled over at low tide the women became so frightened that they would not stay on board ; the men built a snow house, where they all passed the remainder of the night. On the 27th. lumber was pUed up near the house for winter use. Quite a stir was occasioned by the discovery of a man running on the ice of the straits far from land. The twilight was too faint to distinguish objects clearly ; but he ran like a white man. The suggestion that it was one of the ice-floe party led to great excitement. Several started out to run and meet him, and others prepared to run ; but after some time it was discovered that it was an Esquimaux, who had gone out in search of food for his dogs. This news was carried along the line of runners, and brought them all back, except Morton, who was out of hearing, and continued on until he reached the man. The Esquimaux from Etah were allowed to pass the night on the floor of the house, presenting a motley but inter- esting group. Looking for the Iron Boat. 453 In the evening, a faint aurora was seen. The wind > 879. lu c\n T- October. on the 28th, .. as so strong that httle outside work could be done. The Esquimaux left for their homes. At 9.30 a. m. of the 29th, Mr. Chester returned. He had been to the hut of the Esquimaux with whom he went, at the head of Foulke Fiord, and about one and a half miles from Brother John's Glacier. He had seen two rein- deer, but had not been able to get within rifle-shot. The wind during his absence had been so strong that he could not venture far from the igloo. The lowest temperature of the season, — 4°, occurred to-day. On the 80th, more lumber w-as brought from the ves- sel, and the forge and anvil were set up in one corner of the store-house. In the evening, Mauch and Siemens each shot a fox ; Hobby shot three. On the 31st, Captain Budington sent a party, con- sisting of Mr. Chester, Dr. Bessels, Noah Hayes, and the carpenter, with pick and shovel, to McGary Island to look for the boat left there by Dr. Hayes, and to see if it could be used. They failed to find any trace of the boat, which was probably hidaen in the deep snow. Mr. Bryan with Mauch and Siemens took a tramp over the land to the northeast ; they killed no game, and saw only two foxes and some deer-tracks. 464 1879. November. I • , Hunting Parties. On the Ist of November, a heavy, dark cloud was seen over the straits, hiding the western land and indicat- ing open water. Two Esquimaux families came over from Etah ; they were driven from home by want of food, having been compelled to kill some of their dogs. Three foxes were shot near the house. The meteorological observations were recommenced; Mauch's watch was from 4 p. m. to midnight, and Dr. Bessels observed for the remaining sixteen hours. On the 2d, a severe gale from the S. W. prevailed, with an exceedingly heavy snow-drift. The Esquimaux women were engaged in making a few mittens and other garments out of skins that happened to be on hand. On the 3d, Mr. Chester and the carpenter started out hunting, but were unsuccessful, although one deer was seen. On the 4th, a small building for the transit-instrument was erected about thirty yards southwest of the house. It began to be disagreeable to have so many Esqui- maux night after night sleeping on the floor, and a tent was set up, made out of a sail, in which they passed the night ; but they did not like it. On the 5th, Mr. Chester and Noah Hayes went up the coast with one of the natives on a hunt, but saw no game. Hobby shot a fox. On the 6th, a white fox was caught in a steel-trap. The same day, Mr. Bryan and Schumann set out with two of the natives, with their families, for Etah, on a hunting excur- Etdh. 455 sion. As the ice of the straits was not firm enough to 1879. bear them, they were obliged to cross the land. After ascending a high hill, they passed in a southeasterly direc- tion across an undulating plain, and, entering a tortuous ravine, were led to the shore of Foulke Fiord. The land was high and steep, and its descent was not effected with- out danger. Heaching the settlement of Etah, they found that it consisted of three huts built of stone and turf. The two larger huts were the joint property of two families which were blood-relations. The first was occupied by A-wah'-tok, one of the men who had first visited the ves- sel; his wife's name was Ke-shan'-gua, and he had two sons, mere lads, A-ning'-a and Kes'-su. His daughter, Mak-shan'-gua, was married to Neu-in'-nea, and had a young daughter; she lived with her father. The second hut was owned by Shu'-kok and Ira'-me- nah, who had married very pretty sisters, A-nul'-lok and A-ma'-mie. Shu'-kok, or, as he was sometimes called, Na- nook'-ie, had two bright little boys, Mi'-ak and Shu'-loo. Im'-me-nah had a girl and a boy, Nel-le'-ka and Koh-ket'- sha. The third hut was the property of Mi'-ouk, who occupied it with his wife, Six'-se-a, a young son, Ko-lus'- suk, a little daughter, Ma-kip'-su, and a baby boy, Charley — so named by some of the crew. The hut at the head of the fiord was inhabited by the West-land family. The man's name was E-took'-a-jeu, nickramed Jimmy ; his 456 Reindeer. I ■ III J.Zler. ^'^'^'' ^■"^'^^'■^"' ^'^ ^'^^^ W's, Pun'-o-pa; and his littlo girl's, Mun'-ning. Besides these, there were staying in the huts two young couples, E'-nu and his wife, Mun'-ny, and A'-kooand his wife, Koosh-oo'-e-tah ; Ma-jet'-siia, his wife, A -ma, and daughter, E-nel'-look, and an old widow woman,' Ka-rush'-uck. Messrs. Bryan and Schumann passed the night in Shu-kok's hut, some of his Esquimaux friends going into one of the other huts to make room for them. The next day, in company with Shu-kok, they went after deer. They saw several, but did not succeed in getting a shot. The following day they returned to the house, three Esquimaux men, with their teams, accompanying them. Captain Budington says, in his journal of the 7th : " Two natives left us this morning early, before breakfast, carrying one of our Sharps' rifles with them, which one of the men had put on the sled, intending to accompany it. Henry Hobby left us after breakfast, following the sledge- track to Etah, but returned to the house in the evening, completely tired out from his long tramp. He reached Foulke Fiord after the darkness had set in already, but there lost the sled-track, and, not being able to find the huts, he hurried to get back again. On this excursion, he saw three deer ; fired at one of them with a navy pistol, the only weapon he had, and missed." In the evening,' Captain Budington shot a blue fox ; and, on the 8th, Hobby shot another. The captain cooked his, and it Amusements. 457 was highly relished, notwithstanding the previous preju- 18TSI. Novenibor. dice against it. Heretofore, fox-meat had always heen given to the natives ; it was now determined by the ship's ' company to keep it for themselves. On the 9th, Shu-kok returned to Etah. It was a severe day, the strong wind making the traveling very diflicult. Campbell accompanied him, notwithstanding the earnest remonstrances of all the others. In the after- noon, the natives in the house furnished the company a good deal of amusement by showing their tricks, and by dancing and singing, using a tin pan as a drum. Jimmy was dressed up in a white navy-frock and round hat, and danced a regular break-down to the music of Mr. Chester's violin. Every one was convulsed with laughter. Two natives, A-wah-tok and his son-in-law, Neu-m- nea, came from Etah, traveling for the first time on the ice. They went out, the next day, walrus-hunting, to the edge of the Hoc which was not more than a mile off, and brought back part of a large walrus on a sled; the remainder they afterward carried home to Etah. A blue fox was also killed. The crew did not fail to remember that at home it was the day for the election of President; they polled their votes accordingly, all being allowed to vote except Dr. Bessels, who had not been naturalized. On the 13th, there w^as a very severe storm from the .%. ^, ^, V^ W ^i^yz.%. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // «. 1.0 I.I Hi 2.5 12.2 m Its US WULS i£ 2.0 1.8 L25 1.4 ||.6 -^ 6" » y ' A^ ? M 'm '. ^ ^^r^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 (716) 872-4503 '^ ''h / ^ ^ 458 An Igloo Built. wovfl?;,. ^- ^^ «^companie(l by a blinding snow-drift, which did not add to the comfort of those who were obhged to be abroad; yet E-took-a-jeu and family came from Etah, without seeming to mind the weather. A blue fox was killed during the day. A good deal of moisture condensed and froze on the canvas covering of the house, and when the outside temperature rose, or there was a hotter fire than usual in the stove, it dripped down into the berths and on the table. To remedy this, the carpenter tacked boards up, so as to receive and turn oflF the water. The Esquimaux now; began to pass back and forth between their settlements and the house so frequently that it would be tedious to give a record of their movements. The West-land family built a snow house near the ship, with the intention of remaining with their new friends all winter. On the 14th, though it was cloudy, no difficulty was experienced in reading the smallest type. Mr. Chester was busy copying his log into a smaller book, which would be more easily carried, while the original might be cached near the house. On the 19th, a snow wall was built over the door to protect it from drift. Hobby shot two foxes on this day, and one on the day previous. Mauch and Siemens, on the 2l8t, went to Littleton Island, in pursuit of reindeer, but found none. Diamond Rye used for Coffee. 459 type could still be read at noon. The natives continued isra. DecembeFi to come and go in great numbers. On the 25th, Nanookie, with Jim s assistance, finished aii igloo for his fajaily, on a snow bank about a quarter of a mile S. E. of the house. On the 27th, more natives arrived from Etah. They had been suffering from want of food. On the 30th, the barometer rose to 30'" .6. The highest temperature for the month had been 19°.8, Fah- renheit; the lowest, — 17°.l ; and the mean, about 1°.9. The supply of coffee being exhausted, rye was used in its place. Miouk arrived from Etah, with a sad story of the wants of the people there; some had already moved south to better hunting-grounds, and others intended to follow. The strait continued open, a dense water-cloud hang- ing over it. On the 3d, the open water was not more than one and a half miles from the ohip. The noise made by the crushing and grinding of the ice was loud and long-ccntinued. The crew rejoiced that they were not exposed to the perils of the floating pack. The even- ing before, a faint aurora had been seen. The Esquimaux endeavored to go south, but were unable to get round Cape Alexander, on account of the 460 Disdplim Maintained. &6 «:' D/ee«?;. "P'" ^^*^'*- N^"^«»^^ l>»ilt an igloo, and occupied it with his family. During the next few days, twenty-one Esquimaux remained at Polaris house, some sleeping m Igloos, but most of them staying in the house. On the 7th, a serious violation of discipline occurred— the only one during the voyage. An engineer and a sea- man quarreled about the possession of a shelf, and made use of threatening language and gestures. Captain Bud- . mgton, by a prompt and efficient exercise of Lis authority, restored order. On the I2th. Hobby shot a fox near the house • many more of these animals would have been killed but for the presence of their enemies, the Esquimaux dogs On the I3ta, five families of Esquimaux were living in .gloos near the house, and taking two meals daily with their white friends. They comprised five men, five women, and seven children. In addition to these, there were always two or three casual visitors. On the 14th • Sip'-su andhiswife, A-man'-a-me'-lia,camefrom thesouthJ from Northumberland Island, as nearly as could be a.cer- tamed-to tell their Etah brethren that there was good huutmg below, and that the Esquimaux there had an abundance of walrus and seal-meat. Captain Budington mquired diligently of Sipsu for some tidings of the ice- floe party. If tbey had succeeded in landing on the coast, these natives would doubtless Lave seen them m Mid- Winter TwiUght. To hear nothing of them was a great disappointment, and no very strong hope of their safety could now be entertained. On both the 20th and the 2l8t, the height of the twi- light arch was measured by Colby's horizon-instrument. No very decided results could be obtained, as it was extremely difficult to tell exactly where to point the instrument. Many measurements were made by different persons, the results varying from 8° to 10°. Some very coarse print was read on the 21st. Budington says in his journal : " There is a consider- able difference with us between midwinter of this year and the last. In Polaris Bay, we only saw a small por- tion of the twilight arch for two hours, while here we see the twilight for six hours. The arrival of this day when the sun will gradually return to us, we have expected with great impatience. Although the health of our com- pany is the very best, and will, I trust to the Almighty, remain so, the uncertainty about the fate of our comrades on the ice throws a gloom over our party which cannot be entirely banished. The fact that we did not hear of them through the natives makes me believe that they remained on the floe. I can only hope they saved enough provisions to pass the winter." Miouk made many trips to the ho ise to beg bread and blubber; his family remained at Etah in a starving 461 1879. I>eceinber. i if 462 Daily Itoutine. I JeflL. '""^^'^"^ ' ^« ^^' c««^P«"ed to kill four fine dog8 to supply their wants. Mr. Bryan says in his journal of the 24th: '"Tis Christmas-eve, and we are all thinking of our homes, but none, apparently, home-sick. There are but three fami- lies, comprising ten persons, staying with us at present. We are constantly having visitors. I took quite a long walk with Mr. Chester to-day. It has been very mild indeed. There is a vast difference in the intensity of the twilight here and at Thank-God Harbor at the same sea- son of the year. We could see very well to-day to pick our way over hummocks and cracks. We are jogging along slowly, exceedingly glad that the turning-point of the winter has passed, and looking hopefully forward to our spring work; suffering, however, daily from anxiety as to the fate of our comrades. We always hope for the best, but we have little grounds for thinking that thev are safe." ^ Thedomesticlife in Polaris Lous c,as simple enough; each day was an almost exact counterpart of the preced- ing. Breakfast was taken at 9 a. m., before which hour few got up. Two successive tables were set, there not being room enough to seat the whole at one time. The morning was employed in observations, in cleaning fire- arms, in writing journals, or in ordinary occupations. Mr. Chester was for some time engaged in making different Powder Explosion. 463 articles from the ivory of the walrus. Dinner was served 18TJI. at three p. m. ; there was no regular supper. Chess, checkers, dominoes, and cards constituted the principal amusements. Ten was the hour for turning in. During the day, the cat was very shy, and kept herself the greater part of the time in the captain's bunk ; at night, she came out and frolicked through the house. Captain Budington took every opportunity to gather information from the natives, who became more communi- cative when better acquainted. E-val'-lu seemed to possess the best faculty of making herself understood ; her hus- band looked at her with admiration while she was talk- ing. Through her, the captain learned some particulars of that company from the West-land, of which she and her husband were a part. Her story was that they had crossed over to the spot where Hayes had left his iron boat, which they found stove and useless ; they took up everything, including the oars, and then passed over to the mainland, where they found Dr. Hayes' observatory. They stayed about there several days examining the strange things which they discovered. While sleeping in the house one night, they dropped some fire into a powder-cask and were blown up ; four or five of them being killed, among them Jim's father. The survivors of the disaster returned to their native land, leaving E-took-a-jeu. 4G4 1879. December. Temperature. The steward, Booth, was laid up on the Slst, with swollen wrists and ankles, and showed every sign of the scurvy. , The highest temperature during December was 15°.0 Fahr.; the lowest, —27°.5 Fahr.; while the mean was about — 8°.5 Fahr. ^ «» XIX 3(1 CHAPTER XIX. 4 The twilight had now so much increased that on the I873. Ist, the noon observation was made without artificial light. '"""•"'''• The straits continued open, and, on the 3d, the noise from the grinding ice resembled continued thunder. The coal diminished rapidly, and it was necessary to economize ; the captain ordered the fire in the little stove to be put out at 9 p. m. This obliged Dr. Bessels to make his ob- servations from midnight to 6 a. m. in the cold; his enthusiasm supplied sufficient heat. This practice of doing without the fire was, however, continued only for a few nights. As an additional saving, the captain determined to dispense with the galley-stove, and to cook only one meal a day, and that upon the small stove, but this piece of economy was necessarily abandoned, on account of the galley-pots not fitting on the small stove. On the 11th, a party of eight men, two women, and one child, drawn by six teams of dogs, arrived at the house from some settlement near Northumberland Island. i .. ; 1 I 468 iHra. Janniiry Wood from the Ship. Tho people wore in good condition, and had forty or fifty very fine dogs. Prominent among them was Ka-hi-ti'-naii, mentioned by Dr. Hayes. They were also accompanied by an old woman, At-koot'-ta, or Nu-li-a-jesh'-shu, tho widow of Metek. one of Dr. Kane's visitors ; she seemed after a while to recognize Mr. Morton. On the 12th, the thermometer fell as low as — 41°.5. On the 20th, non- pareil type could be read at noon. This day the coal gave out, and the wood whicli had been stored in the autumn about the house, was used in its stead. A raven is seen flying near, o. ^ as one had been seen late in November, it was supposed the bird had spent the winter in the neighborhood. The straits still continued open, and tho grinding of tho ice occasionally made fearful noises. On the 22d, the edge of the floe was not more than two miles off". The natives went out several times to hunt for walrus, but were unsuccessful. A fox was killed near tho house ; Dr. Bessels and Hobby both' tired at it, and, some time afterward, Miouk found it dead ; but the cau?e of its death always remained a mooted question. On the 24th and the 26th, the instruments indicated a temperature below the freezing-point of mercury, but the mercury, though exposed, did not freeze. On the 27th, all the wood that could be found near the house having been used, it was necessary to go over to the ship. Great care was observed to leave untouched The Polaris Well Built. tbat part of tho vessel from which wood for the boats waa to be taken. Shico the iron boat of Dr. Hayos couKl not bo found, the solo dependence of tho party rested on boats of its own construction. Every nail and screw now found was carefully preserved, there bein