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THE Toronto Lithographing Co., limited, LITHOGRAPHERS AND PRINTERS. 1900. 1' \ / ^ ■ '" 'S^syM^^^SWiiBiitiM^iiKi.MB HHw/.-- '' ;. -^^JH ^^^^^^P ' ?? villejunction, whence the Quebec Railway Light and Power Go's line branches off to Montmorency Falls and La Bonne Sainte-Anne. But our train has only paused for an instant at the Junction, and is already dashing up the slope of the nearest chain of the Laurentian Hills that bound the horizon as we look northward from the city in the direction of the Lake St. John country. No mountain region on the face of the globe offers more interesting features to the geologist than that of the Laurentides. This range forms the back bone of the oldest mountain chain upon the crust of our globe. Thousands of years before Noah's ark grounded upon the summit of Mount Ararat, or the fiat had gone forth which first shed created light upon a world of chaos, the mountains,of which these Laurentian hills then formed the framework, lifted aloft their hoary heads, white with the snows of a thousand years. There are a number of indications of this condition of affairs which forbid any doubt on the subject. On the heights of Lorette, nine or ten miles from the city of Quebec, where the old discarded line of the Lake: St. John Railway was cu'. through a heavy sand-bank, there were found pleistocene deposits of saxicava sand, contain- ing astarte, saxicava-rugosa, and pecten-Greenlandica shells in great abundance. These are the self-same shells which are to-day found inhabited by living mollusks, in the cold salt sea which washes the base of Greenland's icy mountains. In the glacial period of our planet's history there is no doubt that a similar cold salt sea to that of Labrador and Greenland covered a great part of this Laurentian country to a height of many hundred feet above the present level of our own St. Lawrence. CHARLESBOURG. This typical and charmingly situated French-Canadian vil- lage is the summer residence of many of Quebec's citizens, who leave the city in the evening by the 5.20 local express, and return to business in the morning by the train that reaches Quebec at 8.40 .M. There are two stopping places for trains in this village, .le at Charlesbourg, three miles from the city, the other three miles further on , at Charlesbourg West. The village, whose double-spired church and neatly whitened cottages and farm-houses are so plainly seen from the heights of Quebec, standing on. the slope of the receding hills, stretches all around and across between the two railway stations. The farming lands here traversed by the railway, and all those stretching away from the elevated plateau of Charlesbourg and Lorette back to the city of Quebec and into the intervening valley of the St. Charles, are amongst the most fertile in the Province. The best apples in the district are those grown upon the lime- stone grounds of this gently undulating .country. A short distance above the church at Charlesbourg are still to be seen the ruins of the Chateau Bij^ot, the summer rendezvous of the 8 IP shameless and profligate Intendant Bigot, the first great Cana- dian boodler, who, for his peculations at the expense of the then infant colony, was recalled to France, indicted, tried, and ban- ished. In one of the secret passages of the old chateau was enacted the tragedy described in Kirby's entrancing historical romance, "The Golden Dog," which resulted in the violent death of Caroline, the unhappy Indian maid, at the instigation, so it is said, of her jealous rival, another favorite of the In- tendant, no less a personage than the beautiful Angdique de Meloises, Madame Hugues de Pdan, who is described as having imitated at Quebec, so far as she was able, the splendor and the guilt of La Pompadour, making the Palace of Bigot as corrupt, if not as brilliant, as that of Versailles. LORETTE. If the tourist has the time to spare, he will find it worth his while to give a day, or at least an afternoon, to visiting Lorette. He may leave the city by the 1.30 p.m. train, and return at 4.30 or 9.50. The station, which is eight miles from the city, is in the very middle of the Indian village, the home of the Christian Hurons, lineal descendants of those ancient warriors who waged such savage wars with the Iroquois in the time of Frontenac, two hundred years ago. These Indians gain their livelihood by hunting and trapping, and by the manufacture of snow-shoes, moccasins, toboggans, and fancy bead-work. A visit to their homes is always interesting.. Their chapel, which is over one hundred and fifty years old, is of the same model and the same dimensions as that of the Santa Casa, whence the image of the Virgin — a copy of that in the famous sanctuary — was sent to the Indians. The magnificent Falls of Lorette are alone well worth the journey to see. All the surroundings, where the foaming waters come tumbling down over rocks and stones and through picturesque gorges, are exceedingly wild. One can see the cascade by simply stepping aside from the roadway. But to be able to gaze upon the Falls in all their beauty, the tourist must descend the steps which lead to a ravine. Two minutes' walk will bring him to a moss-covered rock, where he may sit for hours listening to the noisy splash and watching the dashing waters as they hurry along, foaming and plunging over the stones. The Lorette Falls differ widely from the cataract of Montmorency, but they are just as striking in their way. Some think them even more beautiful. Just above the Indian village is the Chateau d'Eau, where, from a miniature lake formed by a dam across the river, two lines of iron pipe, one thirty and the other eighteen inches in diameter, draw off the water supply with which they serve the city of Quebec. From the heights of Lorette, as from those of Charlesbourg, and from the windows of the cars as the train rolls along the side of the hill, the view all around is of the most entrancing description. The city, in .Tv'r the distance, is bold and striking, rising up proudly out of the broad St. Lawrence, while the church spires, parliament build- ings, and Laval University stand out grandly against the clear sky. Four miles after leaving Indian Lorette, the train pauses a moment at Lorette Junction, and glides on to Valcartier, four- teen miles from Quebec, an agricultural settlement extending for many miles back from the railway, and which was originally settled largely by retired British officers, and their descendants. No less than nineteen Waterloo veterans are buried in the cemetery here. At eighteen miles from the city, immediately before stopping at St. Gabriel station the train crosses THE JACQUES CARTIER RIVER. Here is afforded one of the prettiest scenes that can be seen from a car window anywhere. The river at this point is of con- siderable width. For several hundreu feet above the bridge the fleecy water falls over a long-continued series of massive boulders, and, sixty feet below the railway, the seething fluid eddies around preparatory to its violent rush between the abut- ments of the bridge, only to peacefully rest, almost immediately afterwards, in the calm expanse of lake into which the river widens below the crossing of the railway. It is a somewhat dizzy scene, for the bridge is sixty feet above the water, but it is a substantial iron structure, and was built by the reliable firm of Clark, Reeves & Co., of Philadelphia. Notwithstanding its distance from the sea, the Jacques Cartier is a famous salmon river, whose praises have been sung by such well-known anglers as Charles Hallock, R. Nettle, Dr. Henry, Chs. Lanman, and others. Its name perpetuates the memory of the discoverer of Canada. St. Catherines' is the next stopping place after St. Gabriel, and then, at twenty-four miles from Quebec, comes LAKE ST. JOSEPH. This beautiful sheet of water, which is only about an hour's ride from Quebec, has a crooked circumference of twenty miles, being eight miles long and from one to three in width. It is sur- rounded by mountains clad in magnificent hard-wood trees, reaching down to the water's edge, and embellished with LAKK 3T. JOSBPH. to verdure embowered nooks and oft-recurring vistas of charming scenery. In the middle of the lake the water is very deep and clear, and gently sloping beaches of hard sand render it most desirable as a bathing ground. A comfortable hotel, the Lake View House, and several summer cottages, have been constructed on the shores of the lake, and the pleasure steamer " Arizona " makes frequent trips upon its waters. With all these advan- tages, it is not surprising that Lake St. Joseph should be rapidly becoming one of the most fashionable of Quebec's summer resorts. Its waters teem with various species of fish, chief amongst which are speckled trout, lake trout, black bass, and a white fish of excellent flavor to which the residents give the name of freshwater shad. Brook trout grow very large in this lake, being sometimes captured in spring-time up to three pounds in weight. Bass are taken here most freely in the months of July and August, and the lake or fork-tailed trout, called by the French-Canadian touladi, is caught throughout the entire season, either by trolling near the bottom of the deepest portions of the lake, or in fishing the same localities with live minnows. These fork-tailed trout grow to an immense size, and have been known to exceed thirty pounds in weight. Some five miles after leaving Lake St. Joseph station the railway runs for over two miles along the very brink of Lake Sergent, a placid but very beautiful body of water, the resort of perch and bass. Bourg Louis is the next station, and, at the thirty-sixth mile from Quebec, the train pulls up at ST. RAYMOND. This is both the largest and the prettiest village between Quebec and Lake St. John on the main line of the railroad. The approach to it by railway from Quebec is very beautiful. It has been compared to a Swiss village in appearance, hemmed in, as it is all around, by mountains, along the side of one of which the train rushes down into the station, affording, on the way, a delightful panoramic view of the surrounding country from the car windows, looking towards the north. Through the village flows the interesting River St. Anne, and in the meadows along its bauks.shaded by majestic elms, a short distance out of the village, are some of the most popular grounds for private picnic parties from the city. Various angling excursions may be made from St. Raymond to surrounding waters, and, at some few miles distance is the club-house of the Tourilli Fish and Game Club, situated on the opposite branch of the St. Anne nver from the Little Saguenay. The club originally consisted of Quebecers only, but recently a number of American anglers have secured membership in it. Some of the trout taken by members of this club are exceedingly heavy. Allen's Mill and Perthuis are the next stations, and at neither of these localities, nor yet at many another along the road at zi which the train stops, was there the slightest sign of settlement before the construction of the railway through these then forest solitudes. The same remark is applicable to RIVIERE A PIERRE, fifty-eight miles from Quebec, where excellent agricultural ground abounds, and where quite a number of settlers have already taken up land. Near the station is the junction of the Lower Lauren tian Railway with the Quebec and Lake St. John. The Lower Laurentian runs through a country famous for the fishing to be had in its waters, and for the hunting in its woods. Caribou and partridges are reported plentiful here in winter. The road runs in a westerly direction from Riviere k Pierre Junction, while the Quebec and Lake St. John continues on towards the north. The Lower Laurentian traverses not only a splendid sporting country, but several fine agricultural parishes and rich timber lands, and is destined, it is hoped, in the not far distant future, to form a link in an important line of railway connecting Quebec with Parry Sound on Georgian Bay, which would become the natural and by far th shortest existing outlet for the wheat of the great West that is now conveyed as far as Duluth by the western roads of the United States, and thence finds its way to Eastern seaports by a comparatively long and expensive route. GRAND'MERE. Forty-five miles from Riviere k Piere on the Lower Lauren- tian division of the railway, is Grand' Mere, on the bank of the St. Maurice river. Here, since the construction of the railway a few years ago, there has grown up the nucleus of a large and flourishing town. The Laurentide Pulp Company has erected here large pulp aud paper mills, probably the largest in Canada, and amongst the largest in America. A capital of two millions of dollars has been invested here by the Cc -npany, which num- bers amongst its members some of the most distinguished names, in railway, finance and political life, of Canada and the United States. The water power derived from the Grand' Mere falls is something * ' ' ■ enormous, and the scenery r^ 'i here is of the most pictur- esque descrip- tion. The approach to Grand'Mere by the railway is exceedingly beautiful.. The railway bridge aSiANDMBRB. 19 crosses the river below the falls, which are seen a hundred feet beneath from many different points, the railway, on both sides of the river, taking the form of a horseshoe in approaching Grand'- M^re. At Grand' Mere there is an admirable hotel known as the Laui entides Inn. From this point are reached the waters of the several American fishing clubs in the St, Maurice territory. Six miles west of Grand' M^re the railway passes within a mile of Shawenegan Falls, one of the most beautiful cat? -acts on the Continent. Here the water power has been disposed of by the Government to a company which has undertaken to expend foui millions of dollars to develop it, within the next two years. FISHING CLUBS. Shortly after passing Rivere k ing northward along the St. John R.R., the tourist of the great fish and delightfully wild woods fringe the way track, and both white hunters cari- Pierre Junction, and proceed- line of the Quebec and Lake finds himself in the midst game preserves of this country, Thick sides of the rail- here in winter and Indian track the bou. The of this is a perfect rivers and which literally Numerous clubs to lease the fishing tions of these waters, erected handsome respective head- them control hun- TRITON FISH AND GAME CLUB HOUSE. whole territory network of lakes, all of swarm with fish. have been formed rights in certain por- almost all of which have club-houses at their quarters. Some of dreds of miles of territory, including often no less than scores of lakes, nearly all connected, or at the best only separated by country that is easily portaged. Three of the largest and most important Quebec clubs owning fishing presrves in this district are the Laurentides, whose club-house is seventy miles from Quebec, and not far from the railway ; the Stadacona, ninety-four miles from the city, with headquarters in sight of the car windows ; and the Triton Club at the io8th mile. Before reaching these club lakes, however, the railway com- mences to skirt along the bank of ., ne of the largest and most beautiful of the many magnificent trout streams of this section of the country. This is »3 THE BATISCAN RIVER. Its course is followed by the railway for between twenty and thirty miles. It is generally here from one hundred to four hundred feet in width, running frequently through such narrow mountain passes as barely to leave room for the railway track on one of its shores. It is a succession for the most part of wild, leaping cascades, and dr .hing, foaming rapids, with occa- sional stretches of deep, dark water that contrast strangely with the rough and rocky descents that form the chief characteristics of the river's course through this wild, mountainous country. The beauty of the scenery all along this Batiscan valley must be seen to be appreciated, and none who have observed it can ever forget its wild grandeur. The peculiarly bold abruptness of the mountains in this part of the country will also attract the atten- tion of the observant tourist. All the lakes that are drained into the Batiscan contain immv;nse quantities of speckled trout. The author of a paper in Outing entitled, "Along the upper Batiscan," Mr. George R. Mosle, writes: "The sport here during a stay of fifteen days exceeded anything I have known, whether in the famous Moosehead region of Maine, or among the thousand lakes in the peninsula of Northern Michigan and Wisconsin. After the first day we decided to throw back all trout weighing les . than one pound, and even then found we had a good many to spare at the close of a day's fishing. The largest trout captured by our party was a beauty of five and a quarter pounds .... The next largest weighed four and a half pounds. Besides these two largest we got a number over two and three pounds, one catch of ten trout weighing eighteen pounds, and one of seven weighing sixteen and a half pounds." At a distance of 1 13 miles from Quebec is LAKE EDWARD, the largest body of water between the St. Lawrence and Lake St. John. It original and more appropriate name is Lac des Grandes lies, for in its length of twenty miles are numerous islands, large and small, all beautifully wooded, and often rising to a considerable height out of the water. The shores of the lake are also luxuriantly wooded to the very edge of the water. A more pictur- esque lake it would be im- possible to find anywhere. Its waters are so delightfully pure, cold, and clear, that not only is it a LAKE EDWARD. 14 o w treat to drmk them in the warmest weather, but upon clear days, the reflection of its richly timbered shores and islands is mirrored in the surface as in a glass, and the angler may quite often distinguish distinctly the bottom of the lake at a depth of ten to twenty feet. In these deep pools, some of which are continually cooled by the upward bubbling of fresh- water springs, there love to linger in refreshing indolence those monster trout, — handsome red-bellied specimens of the trae salmo fontinalis, — weighing often from four to six pounds each, which have made this lake so famous. Marvellous stories have been written of how voraciously these speckled beauties take the fly in the summer season, and that they are plentifully captured with bait there is not the slightest matter of doubt. The best fly fishing in the summer season about this lake has been found by the present writer in the Riviere aux Rats, one of the lake's feeders that enters it from the West. Here, how- ever, the trout are not nearly so large as in the body of the lake. In August and September two to four pound trout rise readily to the fly in the River Jeanotte, the outlet of Lake Edward, permission to fish which must be obtained from the Orleans Fishing Club of Quebec, the lessees of the rights. In the lake itself, on the contrary, the fishing is free to all patrons of the railway, — having been i >ased for their benefit from the Provincial Government. There is an excellent hotel at the ra''way station, which is on the very edge of the lake, kept by Mr. Robt. Rowley, where boats, camp outfits, and guides can always be obtained. There are also facilities for camping out on the shores of the lake, as Adirondack Murray, Kit Clarke, and C. H. Farnham, of Harper's Magaeme, have already done for weeks at a time. These brilliant writers have all sung the praises of Lac des Grandes lies, to a recital of whose attractions Mr. Clarke has devoted no inconsiderable space in his cha.ming little booklet, entitled ' ' Where the Trout hide. ' ' He says :— "Beneath the umbrageous protection of majestic forests, hidden deep in the sheltered recess of a trackless wilderness, bordered completely by pompous wood-crowned mountains, reposes in peaceful seclusion Lac des Grandes lies. Imperial domes of mutable green rear their reverential crests above its incurvated shores and no sound breaks the stately silence of the tremendous solitude save the chirrup of the wild birds, or the measureless sigh of the winds among the unblazened trees. Its soft, rippling waters bathe the golden sand-shores in undu- lating swells, while, anon, huge boulders raise their titanic dimensions in capricious and grotesque outlines. Every vision is a spectacle of surpassing beauty. Bent, curved, and oddly distorted, its twenty miles of longitude encompass a hundred miles of shore, while many of its crooked bays, penetrating deep between the lofty hills, are as yet absolutely an undiscov- ered bourne into which no chivalrous civilized creature has 16 ever ventured. Rich cxlors of balsam, spruce and cedar en- cumber the cloudless atmosphere with a delicious fragrance, and every breath of the balmy air is invigorating and strengthening beyond description. "Gemmed with numberless irregular, and quaint islands, some of miles in length and others but the fragment of an acre in extent, the oarsman becomes entangled amid their intricate and puzzling watery ways, and unless guided by subtle discre- tion, he is lost in a labyrinth of wondrous beauty. "The trout of Lake Edward are exceedingly brilliant in color, much more variegated than the ordinary fish of the species, and in size have been taken approximating five pounds in weight, while still larger specimens have been seen time and again. The numbers of trout wrested from these wa rs almost surpass belief, yet they are not absolutely crazy, and will not frantically seize the decoy at any and every opportunity. Among all fish the trout is most conceited, contumacious, and pig- headed. When he won ' t, he won't, and there's an end. on't. Great big fellows can be seen in the clear water, moving about carelessly and lazily, tantalizing the angler as he sits in his boat, vainly offering every inducen:?nt to tempt the fish into a breach of reserve." Kit Clarke's camp is now the rendezvous of the Para- dise Fin and Feather Club, whose president is Judge Henry A. Gildersleeve, of New York, and which counts upon the list of members the names of ex-president Cleveland, ex- mayor Grant, of New York City, C. B. Jefferson, H. C. Miner, John C. Davis, Dr. E. R. Lewis, Dr. Wm. F. Duncan, and several other anglers of note. THE HEIGHT OF LAND. A hundred and twenty-six miles from Quebec, or thirteen beyond Lake Edward; the height of land is reached, and the streams along the side of the railway are henceforth seen to flow northwards in the direction of Lake St. John, inst id of south- wards towf-ds the St. Lawrence, as did those on the other side of the watershed. This summit is 1,500 feet above the level of the St. Lawrence, and 1,200 above that of Lake St. John. There is a perceptible increase, too, in the rate of speed attained by the train, as compared with the time that was made on the heavy up grades. Within the last few years both these grades and the principal curves upon the line have been considerably 17 improved, at a cost of something like a million of dollars. Notwithstanding the present excellence of the road-bed, there is excitement enough, in all conscience in the journey through the wild mountain region here traversed by the railway. In places the road has been cut through .solid rocks of gneiss, granite or lornblende, and splendid granite quarries are now being worked in the vicinity of both Miguick and Riviere i Pierre stations. There are some localities w'icie it has been found nete.s.s{iry to build up lofl> clll^^l'1^lnents for the road- bed, and in others the railway hugs the si H mBSuir'-^^''l^. "msmmm mmm M^ ' 3 ■ ':;;;' » .•«; /■ * mt 23 8 O hi t w n o w H O w that he would be quite ready to cross the Atlantic in her. The steamers "Peribonca" and "Undine" are available for excur^ sions to other parts of the lake. OUANANICHE FISHING. 2; o H tn W < a 3 IF .^4r "'i wm ''^ to T^^H^^H^^^B|H| 1^-' 1 Mtj^r 1 nr-, *™i^= i '^j ■So . 4 •■ • " I- . '■ 1 *i'J •| 1 ^ i •i L^ . 4 1 ^"^^ii^u^^^^Hl J r- :;! k\ f ^^n . *4 4fe 4^V'- ■■v'r"'-;.;it-'*p»i-'''' r ■ f ^•^- ■ - '^ " ■ ''i^-^'^^^JfpSmf^- ■-./ -''ib-Fj^V . '. . -SM^., ';*■» ;5 n o w w o w o Q o Q < W o K Q < with a whip every Friday, devote their whole time to farm labor and their devotional exfercises, and never speak to each other except to utter the salutatory warning, ** Memento mori" " Remember death. " All business is transacted and all orders given by a foreman or director of work. By an an-angement with the Provincial Government the monks are devoting themselves to the colonization of the vast country in the middle of which their monastery is situated. So successful have they been that settlers have flocked in in great numbers to take up lands, and where a year or two ago was the forest primeval there is now a flourishing settlement, with over 400 inhabitants. The comfortable steamer " Colon " runs twice a week between Roberval and the monastery for the convenience of settlers and tourists, a most enjoyable trip up a beautiful river almost as broad as the St. Lawrence. At Pointe-Bleue, only three miles distant from the Hotel Roberval, on the lake shore, are the reserve and village of THE MONTAGNAIS INDIANS, who, in winter, hunt and trap the woods lying between Lake St. John and Hudson's Bay. These Indians are well worth a visit. They are amongst the most interesting of the north American aborigines, and are exceedingly dark of skin. The furs that they collect in winter, and that form their principal means of subsistence, are exchanged by them with the factors of the Hudson's Bay Company for the ordinary necessaries of life. Very often, if game is scarce in the winter season, they suffer the pangs' of hunger, and members of the tribe have been known to die in the woods of starvation. The squaws display great admiration for gay colors, and wrap their shoulders in the brightest of bright cotton handkerchiefs, which are also used as head-dresses for the girls. The costume of a Montagnais matron is incomplete without the tribal tuque, similar in shape to the ordinary tuques of Canadian snow-shoers, but with the point caught down in front to the band, and the whole formed of alternate pointed stripes of red and black, each stripe piped in blue. It is exceedingly interesting, when they are home from the woods in the summer season, to l^ear them sing in their church, in their own peculiar language, in adoration of the Virgin. Some few of them, however, are Protestants, having been baptised at the English mission at Moose Factory, Hudson's Bay. These have a little church of their own. Mr. W. H. H. (Adirondack) Murray, in speaking of the Montagnais Indians of Lake St. John, says : — "They are the 'Mountaineers' of ancient times and wars, and dwelt among the Laurentian Hills. They were a brave stock, and they and the Esquimaux of Labrador were never at peace. The Moimds of Mamelons at the mouth of the Saguenay could tell of wars fought on them for a thousand years, could 27 a < o o their sands but speak. The Monta/^tiais at Roben-al are great hunters, skilled trappers, great canoeinen and runners. They are a racial curiosity, and worthy of study on the part of the intelligent tourist, and the sight of them and their peculiarities will be entertaining to all." In the, summer season they are ready to act as guides for tourists and anglers, and excellent guides they are, too. They may often, when not otherwise engaged, be found busy building birch-bark canoes, and every step of their process illustrates the marvelous exactness of Longfellow's noted description in "Hiawatha." Wonderful indeed are the architecture and mechanism of these *^ cheemauns" ; so light and swift, with their pointed bows, and walls of birch-bark, sewn together with the fibrous roots of the larch or tamarack ; so stout and strong with their framework and ribs of cedar boughs ; so close and dry, with their seams securely closed with "the balm .... the tears of balsam, and the resin of the fir tree." < M A '^ w < 'A o < H O "Thus the birch canoe was builded In the valley by the river, In the bosom of the forest ; And the forest's life was in it, ■ All its mystery and its magic, All the lightness of the birch tree, All the toughness of the cedar, All the larch's supple sinews.* And it floated on the river Like a yellow leaf in autumn, Like a yellow water lily." The family of the Montagnais was formerly divided into various tribes, such as the Tadoussaciens, who hunted the lower part of the Saguenay country ; the Chekoutimiens, farther to the west, who took their name from Chicoutimi, as the Tadous- saciens did tl cirs from Tadoussac ; the Piegouagamiens, who hunted the shores of Pikouagami, or Flat Lake, as they called Lake St. John ; the Mistassins, whose hunting-grounds lay to the north, between Lake St. John and Mistassini ; the Chemou- chouanistes, who trapped and hunted the valley of the Ashuap- mouchouan, and the Nekoubanistes, a tribe hailing from the extreme north-west of the Lake St. John country round about Lake Nekouban, one of the sources of the great river that may be considered as the commencement of the Saguenay, and that is quite as far from Lake St. John as the latter is from Quebec. Hunting the moose, the caribou, the bear, and other large game, is attended with great success in the woods surrounding Lake St. John, while partridges, ducks, and geese are abundant in their season. The number of the geese supplied by the Indians at Fort Albany, James Bay, to the Hudson's Bay Com- pany is 36,000 annually, so that some idea may be formed of the number that fiy southwards over Lake St. John every autumn. 29 t5 M < ;? o H JAMES BAY. |Z5 H tn t4 iz; o H 4 During 1897 the Provincial Government sent an explf)ring party from Lake St. John to James Bay, through the centre of the large territory recently acquired by the Province in that district, covering an area of seventy million acres of land. The result of this exploration proves that this immense country is nmch more valuable than has hitherto been supposed, the land being very level, well timbered, having a good soil and a climate quite as temperate as that of the Lake St. Jonn district, and a snowfall about half that of Montreal, It is also reported to be rich in minerals. The exploration also proved the existence of an excellent route for a railway from Roberval to the mouth of the Nottaway River, on James Bay, where there is a harbor having 27 feet of water, with about four thousand miles of coast line tributary to any railway which may be built there. This route will pass over a summit 300 feet lower than that crossed between Quebec and Lake St. John, and will admit of the con- struction of a railway with very easy gradients. A charter for the construction of this road is held by the Great Northern Company, and, should it be carried out, must greatly enhance the valueof the Lake St. John property. Mr. Henry O'Sullivan, Dominion Land Surveyor and Civil Engineer, who headed the expedition above referred to, reports immense areas of magnifi- cent spruce forest to the north of the height of land between Lake St. John and James Bay. Of other sectionsof the country traversed by him he says: "In the virgin forest, spruce, fir, tamarac and cypress, or Banksian pine, are the chief conifers, while the deciduous trees are limited to poplar of different varie- ties, white birch, willow, alder, hazel, pembina, and similar undergrowth, with occasionally black ash along the river and lake shores. I saw no white pine, and although the cypress, or Banksian pine, is decidedly a native of that region, it is only in the dry burnt districts, and on the poorer heights in the neigh- borhood of Lake Nemiskau, on the Rupert river, that it was seen in abundance. In fact, pine of any kind seldom flourishes on such rich clay soil as is found in the basin of the Nottaway. There is an abundance of spruce and tamarac wherever the country has not been burnt. Here and there, areas more or less extensive, were swept by fire from twenty-five to fifty years ago, and are now well grown up with poplar, white birch, spruce, tamarac and cypress of fair size, according to age, insuring an abundance of pulp wood for ages to come. Pulp is the industry of the coming age, black spruce is the king of woods for pulp- making, and this country is the home of the black spruce." The immense waterfalls in every part of this country furnish power for saw, pulp and paper mills. There has been, as yet, no attempt to develop the mineral wealth of this country, but, no doubt, it is very large, for Mr. O'Sullivan says: "Nearly all the metals are found in the Huron- 31 ian formation honlcnnjj; on lliu T by the railway is magnificently grand. Bursting upon the ad- miring gaze of the travellers on board the train, four miles before reaching the town, is an ever-to-be-remembered view of the Saguenay, more than three hundred feet below. The scene is truly a beautiful one. There is the picturesque and far-famed water-course stretching away below, and on either hand and in front are the heights of the northern shore, and upon them, just over the river from Chi- coutimi, the pretty village of Sainte Anne du Saguenay. From the point where the railway first overlooks the Saguenay River it runs gradually down to the level of the government wharf at Chicou- timi, with a maximum grade of eighty feet to the mile. ;.' . .2 A mile and a quarter from its destination the train crosses a bridge, sixty feet high, over a picturesque ravine, through which the Chicoutimi Rive rushes to mingle its laughing, leaping waters, by a fall fifty feet high, with those of the River of Death, as Bayard Taylor calls the Saguenay. The Chicoutimi River rises near Lake Jacques-Cartier, in the county of Montmorency, and flows northward into Lake Kenogami, issuing from it again to run an exceedingly rapid course of seventeen miles more, descending in this brief, latter career no less than 486 feet, by seven falls and a continuous series of rapids. The portage at one of the falls takes its name of "Portage de 1' Enfant " from the story of an Indian baby who was left in a canoe that, being carelessly fastened, was carried away by ths current, and leaped the fall of fifty feet without upsetting. Operated by the water of the Chicoutimi .River, and situated near by the railway bridge, are Price's Mills. These form one of the institutions of Chicoutimi, and one of the largest milling establishments in Canada, furnishing employment to a vast ■J' ¥^ ife number of men, and through them, and in connection with their other ramifications, sustaining many of the other industries of the place. In fact, the history of the business operations of the Price family is that of the settlement of the Saguenay valley, the development of the vast country, known during the first century of French domination in Canada as Le Royaume du Saguenay, being due to the immense lumbering operations of that enterprising firm. The present head of the firm is Mr. Wm. Price, of Quebec, a nephew of, and successor to the late Senator E. J. Price, a gentleman of princely generosity who died i in the fall of 1899, lamented all over Canada and especially ■ in this region. The late Mr. William Price, who came to ' Canada, in 1810, was the founder of the house wlr.ich bears his name, and erected the first lumber mills, both ai Chicoutimi and Tadoussac. On one of the loftiest points of land in the town of Chicoutimi stands a monument to the memory of his son, the late Mr. William Price, Jr., who died in 1881, after having represented Chicoutimi and Saguenay for some years in Parliament. Chicoutimi has a Roman Catholic Bishop, Mgr. Labrecque, and a handsome Cathedral Church and College, built of stone, besides two large convents. A new chapel was erected in the early part of 1893, quite close to Price's mill, upon the site of the little old Jesuit chapel built for the Indians in 1670, and replaced by an- Xf'f ''.•ii. ^.-.•^•*. -,'^.•. other erected in 1727 0^ ^"^ by Father Laure. Michaux, the French botanist, who ascended the Saguenay about the end of the last century, described the chapel as being then in a good state of preservation, and con- structed of white cedar. In 1850, the remains and site of the old relic were carefully fenced by Mr. Price. When the foundations were being dug for the new chapel, in November, 1892, the remains of a coflfin and human bones were discovered by the workmen beneath the site of the chancel of the old chapel. With these remains were found interred a number of curious relics, including an arrowhead, an iron socket, the point of a sword, plates of metal, and the teeth of bears and beavers, that had apparently been used as orna- ments. Conjecture has since been rife as to the identity of the remains, which some people affect to believe must be those either of some missionary to the Indians,or of an Indian chief- tain or other prominent convert to Christianity. Chicoutimi has now a splendid aqueduct system and is illuminated by electric light. There is also a very large pulp mill, which is supplied with water power by means of a flume 39 jiiM Sjj;y^[ayyij:iii!jyyi ^Binilllllllll i^^'j'^i^.vvi CHATEAU SAGUENAY, CHICOUTIMI. o tn « W O O W ibi/'.ito;: o H tn « W O < u tn O having a diameter of ii}4 feet. Its newly enlarged hotel now bears the name of the Chateau Saguenay, MAGNIFICENT STEAMERS. Regular floating palaces are the Saguenay steamers -vhich connect with the trains of the Quebec and Lake St. John Rail- way at Chicoutimi. Their extensive promenade decks are admirable for purposes of observation ; their staterooms, ladies' cabins, saloons, dining-rooms, etc., are marvels of elegance and comfort, while the cuisine, the service of the meals, and the attendance on board leave nothing to be desired. To promote the pleasure and the comfort of the passengers is the constant aim of all the officials of the steamers, from their captains down. THE SAGUENAY. At Chicoutimi we are some sixty-eight miles from the mouth of the Saguenay which, nearly as far again to the west of us, takes its riae where the surplus waters of Lake St. John are poured oat into the avful chasm where the Laurentian mountains were wrenched asunder by some violent convulsion of nature. No other river on the face of the earth affords such startling contrasts to the tourist as the Saguenay does. It draws its bright young life from the commingling of its parent streams upon the elevated bed of Lake St, John, and is twinfold in its early infancy, where the prattling and the babbling waters of the new-born river are divided into two streams by the Island of Alma. For the first nine miles of its existence, on either side of the isle, it leaps and gambols in frolicsome display, heedless of the rocks that it encounters on its way, now basking in pleasure and sunlight, regardless of the coming night, now flashing, dashing, crashing in the full vigor of lusty youth over precipitous declines. After the reunion of the sometime separated waters, at the foot of Alma Island, there is a con- tinuation for thirty to forty miles more of the precipitous cascades, and falls, and rapids, of the utmost violence, until, some few miles above Chicoutimi, the excitement, and life, and elasticity, and unrest of youth give place to the splendid a've and magnificent gloom that settle down upon the adult dark river, becoming deeper and more impressive as they later approach the stygian darkness of its latter end. A Dante or a Gustave Dore might have created a reputation by depicting the leading features of the Saguenay, either in language or upon canvas. The lower Saguenay, pouring down towards the sea its dirgeful flood o* dark and almost unfathomable waters, along its bed of volcanic origin, cleft between precipitous banks of adamantine rock, attracts yearly an increasing number of that ever-extending class of refined and educated American tourists, whose chief delight it is to read and study nature for them- selves from the most fascinating pages of her ever-open book. One of the most highly cultured and most deeply learned of 41 ^^^^^^^B \ ff , . ^^^ itHH ^ / ^^^^^^^^^^1 ' 'li^^^^^^^^^l ^J^^DK^^^ r ?< ^^^^^^^^^^1 ^^^^■MHPv i^^9S^ ' • ** ' ■^'''ffff* 1 * • '- •i i ' i i -V •■■'."1, ' i i i' Ik , . ^^ ' ■'. • ft ' * ^■^H t, ■^j^B-. t'^^K,-* • ■ < ^ »^Ri-' (< 1 |i; 1 #■ ■ 1 ,^ ■■•;- 's L ^ 1 — 'v > .. B^l . i>' ! 1 ■ ■ . S 1* 1 ■ '"•■ -I Yyf^\- , -"v - "^^' ! ■ \[ '. ' ■ S ; ..If .111' . -.-• w this class— Mr. W. 11. H. Murray— thus describcb the birth of the Saguenay : "It is a monstrous cleft opened hy earthquake violence for sixty miles, through a landscape of mountains formed of primeval rock. " In old times a shock which shook the world burst the Lau- rentian range asunder at its St. Lawrence line where Tadoup''ac now is, and opened up a chasm, two miles across, two thousand feet in depth, and sixty miles in length stiaight northward. Thus was the Saguenay born." The present writer was not there at the time to see, and so gladly accepts Mr. Murray's story of the event, especially as it stands corroborated by the most noted geologists of the day. Professor Roberts says : ' ' The Saguenay can hardly be called a river. It is rather a stupendous chasm, from one to two and one-half miles in width, doubtless of earthquake origin, cleft for sixty-five miles through the high Laurentian plateau. Its walls are an almost unbroken line of naked cliffs of syenite and gneiss. Its depth is many hundred feet greater than that of the St. Lawrence; indeed, if the St. Lawrence were drained dry, all the fleets of the world might float in th'j abyss of the Sague- nay, and yet find anchorage only in a few places." A writer in the London Times calls it "Nature's sarcophagus," and declares that, "compared to it, the Dead Sea is blooming." He continues: "Talk of Lethe or the Styx — they must have been purling brooks compared with this savage river." The Indian name of the river was " Pitchitanichetz. " From Chicoutimi to the entrance of Ha ! Ha 1 Bay, eleven miles down the river, the scenery is bold, indeed, but less gigantically so than that which greets the traveller nearer the mouth of the stream. Almost immediately opposite to Chicou- timi are Cape St. Fran9ois and the parish of St. Anne du Saguenay. Lower down than these, the little rivers I'Orignal, Caribou, and Outardes flow into the Saguenay. They take their names from the immense numbers of moose, caribou, and wild geese respectively that are hunted and killed along their banks. The parish below St. Anne rejoices in the musical name of I'Anse au Foin, or Grass Bay, where a saw mill affords employment to a large proportion of the population. The word "Anse" signifies Bay, and so we have, on the Saguenay river, not only I'Anse au Foin, but I'Anse Saint Jean, I'Anse 4 la- Barque, I'Anse k I'Eau, and a number of other peculiarly named bays. Another striking name for one of the Saguenay harbors is "La Descente des Femmes," or " the getting-down place for the women." And what a getting down it must have been there ! It is some six or eight miles below Ha ! Ha i Bay, on the opposite side of the river, and is so called because it was at this point that a number of Indian women, whose husbands were dying of hunger in the interior of the country, reached the Saguenay on their way to seek food and assistance. 43 HA I HA I BAY o « W O 0$ « O < (A Q W H W ; CO O P < O > church, and had spent the evening in pleasant converse with some of tlie officers of the post. Tlieir anuizenient and incre- dulity may he imagined when, as he got up to go, he bade them good-bye for eternity, and announced that at midnight he would be a corpse, adding that the bell of his chapel would toll for his passing soul at that hour. He told them that if they di'l not believe him they could go and see for themselves, but begged them not to touch his body. lie bade them fetch Messire Compain, who would be waiting for them next day at the lower end of Isle aux Coudres, to wrap liim in his shroud and bury him ; and this they were to do without heeding what the weather should be, for he would answer for the safety of those who undertook the voyage. The little jxirty, astounded, sat, watch in hand, marking the hours i)ass, till, at the first stroke of midnight, the chapel bell began to toll, and, trembling with fear, they rushed into the church. There, prostrate before the altar, hands joined in p'rayer, shrouding his face alike from the first glimpse of the valley of the shadow of dcatli, and from the dazzling glory of the waiting angels, lay Pcre La Brosse, dead. What fear and sorrow must have mingled with the pious hopes and tender jjrayers of those rough traders and rougher Indians as, awe-stricken, they kept vigil that April night. With sunrise came a violent storm ; but mindful of his command and promise, four brave men risked their lives on the water. The lashing waves parted to form a calm path I'or their canoe, and won- drously soon they wer:^ at Isle aux Coudres, there, as had been foretold by Pere La Brosse, was IVi. Compain waiting on the rocks, breviary in hand, and as soon as they were within hearing his shout told them he knew their strange errand; for the night before he had been mysteriously warned ; the bell of his church was tolled at midnight by invisible hands, and a voice had told him what had happened and was yet to happen, and had bade him be ready to do his ofTice. In all the missions that Pore La Brosse had served, the church bells, it is said, niarked that night his dying moment. To this chauning legend the Abbo Casgrain adds: "For many years the Indians going up and down the Saguenay never passed Tadoussac without jjraying in the church where reposed the body of him who had been to them the image of their Heavenly Father. They prostrated themselves with faces to the ground above his tomb, ."/id, i)lacing their mouths at a little opening made in the floor of the choir, they talk<>d to him as in his lifetime, with a confidence tliat could not fail to touch God's heart. Then they applied the.r ears to the orifice to hear the saint's answer. In the ingenuousness of their faith and simplicity of their hearts they imagii.cd that the good father heard them in his coffin, that he answered their questions, and afterwards transmitted to God their jjrayers. This touching custom has ceased since the removal of the renuiins of Pi.re La Brosse. The abandonment and ruin into which the chapel of Tadoussac 51 I had fallen decided the removal of these holy relics a good many years ago to the Church of Chicoutimi. " From Tadoussac the steamer crosses the St. Lawrence diago- nally to Riviere du Loup, a distance of some twenty-two miles, passing, as it nears the south shore, immediately in front of CACOUNA, the must fashionable of Canadian w.^ Bering-places, which has been frequently termed the Newport of Canada, from the wealth and fashion of its summer guests, who owf cottages there or take appartments at the St. Lawrence Hall, the large hostelry owned by Mr. R. M. Stocking, of Quebec, that crowns the heights overlooking the great river. It is by far the largest and most popular hotel at any St. Lawrence river resort in Canada, and has accomodation for four hundred guests. Rivere du I,oup is also an important watering-place, and possesses several hotels and quite a number ©f jlcgant private cottages. The drive from the steamboat wharf to Cacouna occupies less than half an hour, and is one^of the most pictur- esque in the country. From Riviere du Loup the tourist may either proceed to Quebec, Ii6 miles distant, by Intercolonial Railway, return to Lake St. John by the steamer that meets here with his own, or continue on board the latter until it reaches Quebec, which is usually about 6.30 a.m., in which case the pretty and romantic watering-place of Murray Bay will have been reached about ten o'clock at night. At least a short stay at each of these summer resorts — say at Lake Edward, Roberval, the Grand Discharge, Chicoutimi, Ta- doussac, Cacouna aud Murray Bay — if recommended to the tour- ist or pleasure seeker. At each he will find a comfortable hotel, reasonable terms, and delightful facilities for fishing, bathing, driving, and other amusements. At each, too, will be expe- rienced the health-giving eflfects of a balmy and exhilarating climate, but nowhere more so than at either Roberv?! or the Grand Discharge. Here, not only is the bracing atmosphere redolent with the resinous odors of the pine and the balsam, but the air of this far northern country is so tempered by the prevalence of so large a body of water, that the months of Sep- tember and October are here the most comfortable of the year, and have an average temperature at Lake St. John higher than at either Montreal or Quebec. Invalids from quite a number of American States have been sent by their physicians to Lake St. John, and have derived great benefits from a summer's stay at this great natural sanitarium. It well repays the tourist to be up and on deck some little time before the steamer arrives at Quebec. Passing the upper end of the Island of Orleans a magnificent view is had of the far-famed Falls of Montmorency on the north shore, while in front looms up a scene of incomparable beauty, a city set upon a hill, regal in the splendor of its commanding situation, and 5* crowned by the world-renowned Citadel fortress. Crowded upon a lower plateau, but still high above the river, — their tin roofs glittering like silver in the morning sun, — are thf) cathe- drals, convents, colleges, and educational institutions which have contributed to Quebec's fame, and to some extent, at least, justify her claim to beingthe Athensof Canada. Behind the frown- ing guns of the Grand Battery is the Archbishop's Palace, and, adjoining it, the great University bearing the name of Mon- seigneur de Laval, the pious founder of its parent institution. Within its walls are educated the descendants of the old French noblesse, who form the aristocracy of French Canada, and who, in Parliament, in the Church, and in the British army, nobly maintain the prestige of tlit chivalrous nation to which they owe their origin. As the steamer glides to her moorings under the shadow of the vast fortification, the student of history will "well mark her RACES AT CACOUNA. battlements," and is constrained to recall to memory the many stirring events which these walls have witnessed. Now, for 140 years, the bugle notes so dear to the heart of the British redcoat have succeeded to the beat of the French drums, that marked the century and a half of Quebec's history preceding the event- ful campaign of 1759. Only a few hundred yards to the west of the Citadel are the heights of Abraham, where the 2nd and 3rd battalions of the 60th regiment (Royal Americans) shared with the famous 78th Highlanders and other British corps, under Wolfe, the honour of the victory that was so stubbornly dis- puted by the gallant Royal Roussillon and their equally brave comrades-in-arms of the sister French regiments of Languedoc, La Sarre and Guienne, under the intrepid but unfortunate Montcalm. The "Royal American," later the 6oth Foot, and now the King's Royal Rifles — a corps raised by the American colonists in 1755, and which has since become one of the most distin- guished in Her Majesty's "ervice — was with the dying Wolfe on that memorable occaaioa when he gave orders to iutei'cept 53 QUEBEC & UKE ST JOHN RAILWAY. The New Reux lu tk* PAR.PAMEO SACUENAY. the retreat of the French army across the River St. Charles, which fomis the northern boundary of the city of Quebec. By a singular coincidence, the River Charles at Boston, which, like its Quebec namesake, forms the northern boundary of a city fairly reveling in the wealth of its historical associations, was little more than a decade and a half later crossed by the red- coats, on that eventful day in 1775 of which Americans are so proud. And yet another coincidence remains to be noted : More than a century after its honorable service under Wolfe, this for- mer Boston Regiment was the last to march out of the chain gate of the Citadel when the Imperial forces were withdrawn from Canada in 187 1. The stories of the two historical cities of the continent are thus strangely linked ; and it is not unworthy of note that it is to Francis Parknian, the cultured histo- rian of Boston, that Quebec is indebted for the most pictur- esque and entrancing delinea- tion of her own romantic past. Hardly a stone's throw from the steamboat landing, at the foot of the precipice upon which stands the Citadel, the brave Men tgomery met his death in 1775. Bordering upon the over-hanging Dufferin Ter- race is the Governor's Garden, and beneath the shade of its beautiful trees may be discerned the monument erected to the joint memory of the two heroes of Quebec and bearing the well- kuown inscription, so touching in its simple, classic beauty, *^ Mortem virtus communem, faniani historia, monuinentum, posteritas dedit." NotwithstandJtig the withdrawal of the Imperial troops, there are still heard from the King's Bastion on the Citadel, resound- ing over the ground once trodden by Champlain, Frontenac, Montcalm, De Vaudreuil, Murray, Lord Nelson and Mont- gomery, the familiar notes of the bugle calls which bring Tommy Atkins to a sense of his duty, whether he be at Halifax, Bermuda, Gibraltar, Malta, Cairo, Bombay, or distant Burmah ; and from the highest point of the fortress still floats lazily on the summer breeze the red cross of St. George, the emblem of that empire upon which the sun never sets, and which nowhere waves over a land more richly endowed by Nature with all that goes to make up the ideal paradise of the tourist and the sportsman, than that through which we have now drawn our triangular trail. 54 FISHING NOTES. All along the line of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway ^re watt s that teem with fish. Many of them are well pre- served by the clnbs that own the fishing of them, and all share in the benefit resulting from their proximity to the National Park and from the protection enforced therein. Lake St. Joaeph, at only twenty-four miles from Quebec, has long been noted for the magnificent trout found therein. It also contains bass and touladi, (lake trout or namaycush) which grow to a very large size. The fishing in this lake is free to all. At St. Raj-mond, thirty-six miles from Quebec, the railway crosses the St. Anne river. Good trout fishing is to be had in this river, a few miles above St. Raymond. Fair trout fishing is to be had in the Riviere a Pierre, not far from the railway station, which is reached at the fifty-eighth mile from Quebec. Here the Great Northern Railway branches off to the west from the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway, running through the famous fishing territories of the St. Maurice country, and traversing a'di strict rich in fish and game through- out almost its entire course. Continuing along the line of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway past Riviere a Pierre junction, the angler finds himself in the midst of the great fish and game preserve of this delight- fully wild country. Before reaching the preserves of the Laurentide and Stadacona fish and game clubs, the train runs for many miles alongside the beautiful Batiscan river. The headwaters of this stream and the lakes surrounding them are leased to the Triton Fish and Game Club, but in nmch of the river the fishing is free. The famous large speckled trout of Lake Ed ward, -one hundred and thirteen miles from Quebec, -can be fished for by all licensed anglers who are guests of the liberally conducted hotel at the lake. Excellent fly-fishing is offered by neighboring lakes and streams controlled by the Laurentide House. From Kiskisink station, at one hundred and thirty-five miles from Quebec, a number of excellent fishing waters may be reached, including the preserves of the Penn and the Meta- betchouan Fish and Game Clubs, and the richly-stocked head- waters of the Upikauba and Riviere des Ecorces. At Lake Bouchette station, one hundred and sixty miles from Quebec, the members of the Nonantum and of the Ouiatchouan Fish and Game Clubs tak .: leave of the tr£:in for their respective preserves. Chambord Junction is one hundred and seventy-seven miles from Quebec. Here the Chicoutimi extension of the railway branches off to the east. The fine spring fishing for ouananiche in the mouth of the Metabetchouan is reached by this branch, and also that of Lac dela belle Riviere and Lake Kenogami. From Chicoutimi at the present terminus of this line, angling trips may be made in almost every direction, 5S Roberval at the terminus of the main line of the railway is the resort of many well-known anglers. Here reliable guides and outfits may be had for the trout fishing in the Ouitachouan- iche, and the Aleck and. des Aigles and Little Peribonca, and for the ouananiche of the Peribonca, Lac Tschatagama, the Mistas- sini, Mistassibi and Ashuapmouchouan rivers. From Roberval, too, steamers cross the lake to the Grande Discharge, where at the Island House, efl&cient guides and canoes are furnished for "the chosen waters where the ouanan- iche is waiting," all the way from the great lake iiself to the end of the rapids, many miles below, where the outlet of Lake St. John assumes the dark and dismal character and solitary grandeur of the lower Saguenay. O iz; u < pq P pt| FISHERY LAWS OF QUEBEC. Fishing by rod and line only is permitted in the inland waters of the Province, and non-residents, unless they are bona fidt: lessees of angling waters, or members of clubs owning such leases, must obtain government licenses to fish, which cost $r per day up to ten days, or |io for a month. These licenses can be had from Mr. R. M. Stocking, City Ticket Agent of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway, Quebec, CLOSE SEASONS FOR TROUT, (Salvelinus fontinalis) are from ist October to 30th April in- clusive ; for salmon, from 15th August to ist February; for ouananiche, from 15th September to ist December ; for grey trout, lake trout or lunge ( namaycush ), from 15th October to ist December; for bass, from 15th April to 15th June; for mask- inonge, from 25th May to ist July; and for pickerel or dor^, from 15th April to 15th May. GAME NOTES. Large game is nowhere more abundant than in portions of the country traversed by or accessible from the line of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway. Moose have been killed at Charles- bourg, three miles only from Quebec, but this, of course, is exceptional. At Lorette station, eight miles from Quebec, Indian hunters may be obtained as guides. From Lake St. Joseph station, twenty-four miles from Quebec, the Riviere au Pin country is reached by canoe in autumn and over the ice in winter. Caribou are frequently killed in this district and also in the country about Valcartier, which is only fourteen miles from Quebec. Farther north from this point there is less of civilization and the game is not so much hunted. St. Raymond, at thirty-six miles from Quebec, is in the centre of a splendid country for hunting. Large game hunters come here from 57 Chicago, New York and the New England States, and every season sees a number of trophies of the chase shipped from this station for the United States, in the shape of the heads and antlers of both moose and caribou. Several guides live in and about St. Raymond, and a number of different routes may be taken from the village in the search for game. The Tourilli Fish and Game Club has a fish and game preserve at some distance from St. Raymond, upon which several moose have been killed, aud where caribou are very plentiful. Big game abounds in many neighboring localities, both north, east and west. In fact the whole country from St. Raymond north to Lake St. John and to the Saguenay is full of game. A few other olubs, including the Triton, which owns p large territory south -east of Lake Edward have leased- the exclusive right to the liunting upon their iiuiitd, but by far the larr^er part of the country ip tree, at least so far as hunting is concerned, to all comers, ard the guides are usually well informed as to where the game is preserved. Riviert k Pierre station, fifty-eight riiles from Quebec, is the centre of a good moose country. So abundant are these an tiered monarchs of the forest that soma ft .-. yet'r s ago, nearly thirty of them were ruthlessly murdered for their hides by the Indians in one winter. A better system of protection now prevails. Caribou are found in large numbers all over the territory about the next succeeding stations on the line of railway — Talbot, Laurentides, Miguick, Beaudet and Stadacona. Lake Edward is -n the centre of another excellent large game country. Here a caribou was taken alive in the water in June, 1899, and a few days later a moose was also lassooed, but towed the steam launch to which he was yoked ashore, and made good his escape. Several moose and caribou are killed here every season, and the winter hunting is almost always good. The lurge extent of country about the height of land between Lake Edward and Kiskisink is overun with, game and is accessible to hunters. Kiskisink is one h:indred and thirty-five miles from Quebec, and by disembarking from the train here and striking through the country, either east or west past the reserves of the Penn, the Metabetchouan and other fish and gauie clubs, by •■outes that are well-known to the guides, riore good hunting territories may be reached. It 's believr 1 that there is no finer hunting teritory anywhere, for both moose and caribou, than the country about the head v/aters of the Riviere des Ecorres. Lake Bouchette at a distance of one hundred and sixty miles from Quebec, is tho gateway to other good hunting districts. In all the big game country so far der.ribed, there is consider- able bird life and other species of game ^ '^ well. Partridges are abundant everywhere, as evidenced by the vast number shipped in the fall and winter season to the Quebec market. Ducks, including a good proportion of the much sought black variety, are found upon all the lakes and streams of this abundantly 58 rv V- watered country, and so are snipe and sand larks. Hares abound, and sometimes a black bear may be met and killed, while the skin of a fox may often be the reward of a lucky shot. In the fall of the year there is always ^ood duck shooting to be had on Lake St. John, particularly o.T Pointe Bleue and the mouths of the Ashuapmouchouan and 1 listassdiii rivers. The Chicoutimi branch of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway passes in close proximity to a number of districts well stocked with large game. Caribou are quite numerous in ilis Lac de la Belle Riviere district, and some of the best sport in the province has often been had here. The guides from Lake St. John are the best for this territory and are furnished at the Hotel Roberval. Chicoutimi is the centre of another good hunting district, ex- tending for a considerable distance upon both sides of the Saguenay river. Local guides are obtainable, and full informa- tion respecting them may be had of the management of the Chateau Saguenay hotel there. «•- GAME LAWS OF QUEBEC. The game laws of the Province of Quebec provide us follows : Non-residents of the province must not hunt therein, unless they are bona fide members of a fish and game club incorporated under provincial laws, and hunting upon territory leased by such club from the government of the province for hunting purposes, or unless they have obtained a hunting license from the government, for which a charge of $25 for the season is made. Leases of hunting territories not to exceed four hundred square miles each may be obtained by individuals or clubs from %i per square mile up. The close season for caribou is from ist February to ist September, except north and east of the Saguenay, where the close season only opens on the ist March ; and that for moose and deer is from tiie ist January to the ist September, except in the western district of the province, including the counties of Ottawa and Pontiac, where the close season is from ist December to 1st October. Wild ducks must not be killed between the ict March and the 1st Septembers, nor partridge, woodcock, snipt, plover, etc., between ist February and 15th September. For the convenience of sportsmen, the government has placed a number of hunting licenses on sale at the ofl&ce of Mr. R. M, Stockmg, City Ticket Agent of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway, Quebec. 59 tmMi^i'»''e jmrnfumrm jw-jwcm*. 2 Zz uJ , o i ? _ !^ i - 3 i = ! 3 tu oc. " 2 S uj "J £ Q B. UJ 5 o O i (71 ec ii-muMvn . mttmi irimi»0/ -.m- .,«.a lOT r i AGRICULTURAL AND CLIMATIC STATISTICS OF THE LAKE ST. JOHN DISTRICTS. The foregroin^ pa^es go to prove the advantages of the Lake St. John and Saguenay districta from a touriat'i and sporlsman'ii point of view. But these advantages are ot minor importance as compared with those offered by this newly opened country tu the lumberman and the farmer. In the year iSqri the Lake St. John Railway carried over 67,ooo,acx> feet of lumber, being equivalent to more than half of the total export of the port of Quebec, and it is estimated that these lumbering operations gave employment to about 4,000 men during the winter months. The very large area of good agricultural land is attracting new settlers from •II parts. In the year 1807 the railway transported free of charge, no less than 1,373 BONA PiDB new settlers, namely: — From Canada 737 " United SUtes 46a " Europe ,. 83 SI Eg I; .1 1871 136.099 Ii7,a49 71,310 I56'996 5,966 148,106 44.77a ■7.493 1881 154.589 311,316 100,183 387,338 "6,347 393. '"7 59.795 67.437 32.409 38.281 |.S7> and 191 delegates from various parts of Canada visited the district for the purpose of reporting upon its suitaoility for settlement. The following figures from official reports go to show the agricultural and climatic advantages of this territory for the new settler. AGRICULTURAL Wheat and all grains ripen and produce abundantly, as may be seen from the following extracts, taken from the census returns:— 1861 Wheat, bushels 10,913 Oats " 39.316 Barley " 30,933 Other Grains Potatoes, bushels 101,383 Hay, tons 3.648 Butter, pounds 61,777 Head of live stock 18,746 Tobacco, pounds Population 10,478 in 1891 Potatoes, carrots and other vegetables yield abundantly and of immense size. Wheat is of course the great test of the soil and climate of any agricultural country. Let us then compare its production at Lake St. John with the best dis- tricts of the Province, viz : the Eastern Townships, and we will find that the census returns shew in 1881 : — Popula- tion. 32.409 19.581 15.556 '5.495 CLIMATE OF LAKE ST. JOHN. To show the excellent climate enjoyed by the valley of Lake St. John especially at harvest time, we give below a table of the observations of temper- ature madefrom the 15th September to 8th October, 1890, by the officers of the meteorological service at Montreal, Quebec and Roberval. It will be seen that the mean temperature was two degrees higher at Rober- val than at Quebec and even at Montreal : — Average. Roberval (Lake St. John) 6i|[ Montreal 59* Quebec 59* Comparison between the temperature of Lake St. John and that of other localities in Canada : — Chicoutimi . . . Compton Stanstead . . , Huntingdon . Bushels Wheat. 154.589 34. "8« Bushels per 1000 of pop. 4,800 1,800 37.7»7 24.370 3,400 1,600 Roberval ._ Chicoutimi Moose Factory (James Bay) Port Arthur Winnipeg Montreal Suebec alhousie Rimouski Averag-e For whole year. Winter. Summer. 35-9 13.3 59-7 3«.8 1.4 57-3 31.3 3-4 57-6 32.2 1-7 56.0 33.1 0.5 58.8 39-2 10.4 62.5 370 8.7 60.3 36.8 «S-2 590 35-7 '5-2 s^a 61 7 - QUEBEC Ql lake ST, JOHN R'Y GENERAL OFFICES: ST. ANDREW STREET TERMINUS PRINCKSS LOUISB DOCK QUEBEC. FRANK ROSS, J. G. SCOTT, Sec. & Manager. President. ALEX. HARDY, Gen. Pass. Agent. R. M. STOCKING, CITY TICKET AGENT, IPPIHRIPI^ •(.V i Ce volume dolt dtre rendu h la dernl^re date indlqu6e ci>dessous. ^^1^/7^