■■ v>X^^V^o^ IMAGE EVALUATSON TEST TARGET (MT- 3) mJo V ^:i/ '/ ■^ S .# m>. W^ i/.x U^ 1.0 f ™" IM III IJ CE MO 1.25 2.0 1.8 i-4 IIIIII.6 -^^ <^ W c^ i'* <^^ Photogi^phic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. MS80 (716) 872-450.^ m\^\. ^is.% ^f\\ % ^^^ %^ <^ 4> n ■ Q, m \ ^ M A y^ ^o^ ^^ CIHM/!CMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de .nicroreproductions historiques 1981 Technical and Bibliographic Nctes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D n D Coloured covers/ Couvertire de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pelliculde I " Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre do couleur {i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) □ Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ PlancI :hes et/ou iiJustrations en couleur Bound xvith other material/ Relid avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serree peut causer de t'ombre ou de la distortion ie long de la marge int^rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout^es lor3 d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela ^tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmdes. L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exempiaire qu'ii iui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exempiaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mSthode normale de filmage sont indiquds ci-dessous. I j Coloured pages/ D D D D n D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur^es et/ou pelliculdes Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages ddcoiordes, tachetbes ou piqu^es Pages detached/ Pages d^tach^es Showthrough/ Transparep.ee Quality of print varies/ Qualit^ in^gale de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel supplementaire [ I Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement oi' partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 film^es t nouveau de fagon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. to Tl P< of fil O b( th si o1 fil si Oi Tl Tl w M di er b( ri! re D Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppldmentaires; This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X I I I I I ' M I I L/l I I 26X 30X 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library of the Public Archives of Canada L'exemplaire filmi fut reproduit grdce d la g6n6rosit6 de: La bibliothdque des Archives publiques du Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Las images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetd de I'exempiaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol —^-{meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimis sont film6s en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, «elon ie cas. Tous ias autres exemplaires originaux sont filmis en commenpant par la premidi^e page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernldre image de cheque microfiche, seion le cas: le symbole •^►signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may bv filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmis & des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est irop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul olichd, ii est film6 d partir de Tangle supirieur gauche, de gauche d droite, ei de haut eii bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode, 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 '■\.t. '> ■ OVERTHElSTERCOLOiMAL ■ - . - ^'^/:- '.. ■ V'; ;' ■-^,B•:^•J>^• ^ , ;'.* '■7'•>^?-'•.^:• ^ AETIOLES ON THE MINING INDUSTEIES TO VA SCOTIA &^EW BRUSSWICK A DESCRIPTION OF THE CITIES OF ST. JOHN AND HALIFAX. > FRED. J. HAMILTON, (5'ijeciai Corretpondent) REI'RINTBD FROM TlIK MONTREAI. " OAaSTTS." t * j MONTREAL; • ■ "OAZETTK" PRINTING HOUSE, NF:vT TUB POSTUFFICE. 1876. .- ■■ .■•:., f..- ;.- ^ mm ESOT-A^BIjISSEID 1871. GENERAL INSURANCE AGENCY, 51 PRINCESS STBEET, ST. JOHN, N. B. Fire, Life, IVIarine, Accident and Guarantee In- surance effected on the most favorable ternfis- '^' ■.■■' >^- REPRESENTS HOME COMPANIES ONLY. The Citizen's Insurance Company of 'Canada, HEAD OFFICE: MONTREAL. EstaKmsheJ) 1S64. FIRE, LIFE. ACCIDENT AND GUARANTEE, Capital .. .. .. Deposited with Dominion GoTem^ment ..-- $a,ooo,ooo.oo 103,000.00 ' Sir Hugh Allan, •• PresWent. Ai)Oi.ptt Roy, ■•■ *a •• .... Vke-President. DiREC-rORS. ROBT. ASDERSON, N- B- CoRSE, HeNRY LrSfAN. Canada Fire and IVIarine Insurance Company, HEAD OFFICE: HAMILTON, ONT, ESTABUSHM) 1S74. Ca[Hta( -• .. .. Vy .. .. ; ,•• ' •' • Deposited wHh the Dominion Government • • . . ■ , . John Winkr, Esq., (of Messrs. J. Winer & Co.f .. .. Geo. Roach. F»q., Mnyor fif Hamilton, D. Thompson, Esq., M. P., County of Haldinoand Chas. D. Cory, Pecretary and Mmager. ..: $5,000,000:00 SOOOGOO '. President, f Vice-Presidents. The Mutual Life Association of Canada, HEAD OFFICE: HAMILTON, ONT. TEE ONLY PURELY MUTUAL CAJiADlAN LIFE COMPANY. Deposited wilh Dominion Governnnent $50,000.00. LOCAL DIRECTORS. For Ni!w Kruxswick. Fob Nova Scotia. For P. E. Island. His Honor S. L. Tilley, Hon. Alex. K ith, P. C. L. Hon. L. C. Owen- Lieut. Oov. New JJruns'k. Hon. Jeremiah Northiii-, Hon. Th« s. W. iJodd. C. H. Fai"weath«r, l sq., HonllW. Smith, At. Gen. Hon. 1). Laird, Min Interior. .Meliooti Esq., M P- Thos. Kenncy, Esq, Alaloolm McLeod, E.'q. lleo Himeon Janes. Esq. Hon. Win. KeHey, L. P. Fisher, Esq. "^ Cathcart 'Ihompson, Esq- John Quirk, E.-'q. J, DesBrisay, Esq. Vivian W. Tipfkt, Agt .Fredericton. N.B. Wm. SKiLtKN, Agt. Woodstock, N.B. M. K. Benson, Agt Chnthatn, N.B. C. N. Vhoom, Agt 8t. Stephen.N.B. IL-EIJ^ W. \\ .(iTLorK, Jr., Agt. St Andrews, N.B* 11. W. SmiXEJi, ARt St. Martins, N.B C. 1). Jordan, Broker. ... St. John. N.B" J. T. Cabfevter, " ..Indianp.town, N.B' J«.. General AuEnt and Brokeb, 51 Princess S1ret;tj Ht. Jqbi, N.B. XiNM to amy tunannt placed irithout eartra <;/ieir(7e«< , *. iiitjySn.^ iiHy K ' -*;-* •■';'- ■ i: A TRIP '->,'- f, OVER THE INTEROOLONIAL ARTICLES ON THE KmiMG INDUSTRIES OF NOYA SCOTIA AND NEW BRUI^SWICK WTTH -.■ rjp-j^S^M^ /«kVSi«(9'(itsV.i • A DESCRIPTION OF THE CITIES OF ST. JOHN AND hALIFAX. BY FRED. J, HAMILTON, {Special Correapondt it.) RE-PRINTED FROM THE MOXTEEAI, "GAZETTE." \- MONTREAL: "OAZriTE " PRINTtNG HOUS!!?f NEXT THE NEW POST CFFICE. 1876. ^0" m 4 "^ ^'^ ^'i?" M J) ENGINEERS' TOOLS. LATHES, PLANERS, DRILLS, SHAPERS, PUNCH AN][> SHEARING MACHINES, &c. STEAM ENGINES, Vertical and Horizontal, io Horse Power and upwards. Fiil Specifications of all Machines will be furnished on application. JA.MES INQLIS, 327 Commissioners Street, Montreal. THE MONTREAL .i SIR HUGH ALLAN, President. A. W. OGILVIE, M,P.P., Vice-President. Messrs. C. J. BRYDGES. ANDREW ALLAN. SIR FRANCIS HINCKS. This Company receives goods on Storage. Property may be consigned direct to the Company or to its care. GEO. H. HANNA, JOHN S. HALL, Secretary. Manager. MOHTBBAL, September, 1876. \mi JL rr^ixjp OVRR THE INTEROOLONIAL. IVO. 1. FEOM EIVIEEE DU LOUP TO OAOOOTA. Owing to the short time allowed for stopping at the former place, your correspondent had no opportunity of ascertaining anything like a correct description of the starting point of the Intercolonial Railway. It ig sufficiently well known, however, to the general public, and does not perhaps require any lengthy mention ; except, perhaps, to add that the station arrangements were very similar to those of any other line. I tried in vain to gather a few hasty notes ; but the energetic station master informed me that probably he might have an hour or so to spare in the course of a few days ; but at that precise moment his hands were too full to attend to anything ; adding " that the same general hurry, bustle and " business had been going on for the past two or three weeks." It may be here remarked that the business of the road is greatly facilitated by the punctual and admirable arrangements of the Grand Trunk Bailway. There were no deiu/s, no confusion among employes, or mistakes. Every- thing appeared to be in thorough working order, and might, so far as a stranger was concerned, have been going on precisely in the same way for the past ten years. Upon appealing to the conductor to satisfy my thirst for knowledge in the public interest, he admitted he was a comparative stranger along the road, and he could not give me any information what- ever. But he was an exceedingly obliging fellow, and the way he assisted an infirm old lady to the waiting-room was the perfection of railroad gallantry. The incident was exceptional in my experience of railroad officials, and is therefore noteworthy. Having safely deposited his charge the signal " all aboard^' was given ; the locomotive shrieked its loudest and we were en route to Cacouna, six miles distant. We had not been aboard more than five minutes before we passed through a rock cutting some thirty or forty feet in height and about sixty yards in 'Jt' length, as near as could be judged. This is probably a forecast of some of the greater difficulties which have been encountered in the constiuction of the line at other points along the rou .0. The road between Riviere du Loup and Cacouna is as smooth as coulr be wished — Lot even the faintest symptom of a jolt or jar. Glimpses of the Falls could here and there be obtained ; but thei is nothing worth mentioning in connection with the scenery, save its generally wild and varied chai'acter. Picturesque bits of rise and fall, here and there momentarily arrest the eye; but you find nothing special to fascinate your gaze until you arrive AT CACOUNA. Here, however, you meet your first trial, which to even a healthy man is not particularly pleasant. Four miles of muddy road, over rough rock and mire (for it had been raining heavily), seated in an apology for a carriage, the horses in which manifest a disposition to stop every five minutes, for which you cannot blame them, you finally arrive at the heart of the village. Five minutes more and the driver deposits you, considerably shaken up, at the St. Lawrence Hall. Sixty-two in the shade, a cheerful fire and the loudest kind of ulsters I found to be tha "correct thing" at this, one of the most delightful of watering-places. What a transition from the comparatively tropical region of Montreal ! Here, at last, you find the perfection of repose. Fatigue and want of sleep at once gave way to admiration of the beautiful sce-iery from the balconies of the hotel. Perhaps it was the more welcome because the least expected. For the first time you discover that Cacouna is situated on a plateau sloping in a gradual decline to the shore of the St. Lawrence, on the south bank of which it is built. But admiration must wait upon appetite, After an excellent dinner and plenty of it — to which every one appeared to do ample justice, my kind host volunteered his services as guide, and proceeded to unfold the attractions of this charming spot. Looking due north you have au uninterrupted view for many miles. Immediately in front the bold range of the Eooulements fringes the circuit of country lying east and west. Between the river and the distant hills the sun shone upon the ascending banks of show-white fog, gilding their outlines and giving them the appearance of gilt-tipped masses of snowy vapour, while the surface of the river, gently agitated by the rippling current, sparkled in the summer light. The air was sharp and bracing. This glorious view, however, conceals the dangerous Cacouna reefs, and woe to the unfortunate, inex- perienced oarsman should he venture too near them. To the north-east yoa have Cacouna, or Red Island, and following the same direction Green Island is noticeable for its efl'ective and bold outline. The mouth of the Saguenay is also clearly discernable, while above this beautiful scene the purple sky streaked with bright, warm colors, gives a contrast to the whole which is almost unsurpassed for its general effect. No wonder, f ' then, that this is such a favorite retreat for tourists from all parts of the continent. Since the opening of the line its charms have attracted a number of New Brunswickers, who were heretofore strangcrH to its beauties. The pleasant smell of the salt air invigorates and makes one long for a dip in the river. The usual bathing hour is when the tide comes in. The coldness of the water does not seem to deter the ladies and gentlemen from thoroughly enjoying themselves in the element. Every facility is afforded by the hotel company for this means of recreation. I should think that Cacouna is the last place in the world where a graduate of medicine would think of starting a practice. Nature has the monopoly in this respect, and judging from the sun-burnt, healthy faces of its resi- dents, one would suppose that disease in any form was here unknown. But Cacouna does not entirely depend upon its scenery for its popularity, for besides its scenic attractions it is a sportsman's paradise. Wild duck, wild geese, wild swan, sea duck, wigeon and teal are waiting to be shot for the amusement of the male sex. They are to be found plentifully in the vicinity of what are known as the " Brandy Pots." How the name originated is a geographical mystery ; but it is probably a satire upon the fact that spirits are not allowed to be sold under t\ie laws of the municipal- ity of Cacouna in less quantities than three gallons at a time. The season for shooting is between the 15th of May and 1st September; but the Government does not allow the birds to be shot except as aiticles of food, and those who are found selling or bartering them for profit, do so at the risk of a heavy penalty. Neither is shooting allowed one hour before sunrise or one hour after sunset. Those who may have a fondness for trout fishing can gratify it to their hearts' content. Indeed Cacouna seems to be peculiarly favored in all that pertains to watering places generally, while in many respects it is far superior. A word with regard to the hotel. It has comfortable accommodation for 300 persons. Indeed I believe it has that number at present on its books. The rooms are large and comfortable, and if the cooking which came under my personal attention is a fair sample of its average quality, it ought to satisfy the most fastidious dyspeptic. The grounds are large and well arranged, with every conceivable convenience for juvenile sports. There is a cricket ground, archery, boating house, « meiTy go round," bathing- house, swings, croquet lawns, yachts, bowling alleys, billiards, and in short everything any reasonable person could desire, at a moderate cost. The view from any part of the establishment is a picture. The servants attached to the place are attentive and know their business. In addition to the St. Lawrence Hall there are a number of smaller hotels and summer residences, some of them perfect gems in their way, extending for four miles along the plateau. Among the more prominent on the Cacouna Boad is the seat of Sir Hugh Allan, a large square stone building in the midet cf spacious lawn, garden, shrubbery and woodland, comprising about thirteen acres. On the opposite side is the summer cottage of Mr. m- ■:,■• 4 m 6 Joseph Hickson, with grounds attached. It is a neat unpretcutious, home- lilie villa, apparently intended for comfort as well as ornament. At the commencement of tlic village coming fro n Riviere du Loup you pass the well-known seat of the Hon. James F< rrier. Adjoining the hotel, Mr. Andrew Allan's elegant cottage stands out prominent and picturesque. Next to it Mr. H. M. Gault of the Exchange Bank owns a property formerly occupied by Mr. Mackenzie. Close hy is tho summer retreat of Mr. Freer, the former Postmaster of Montreal. The varied architecture of the private residences, most of which are painted white, considerably adds to the natural beauty of Cacouna, their most striking feature being the general air of thorough comfort. The spiritual wants of the people are provided for by the Anglican, Boman Catholic and Presbyterian Churches — neat ediflces, the largest of which is the Boman Catholic. The population proper, not including summer visitors, of Cacouna, num- bers some 2,000 persons. It mainly consistsof farmers, who seem only to to ca e about raising sufficient for their own consumption. The supplies for the hotels come from Montreal and Quebec. The people seem to be easy, good-natured and contented ; but ask any of them a question (at least such was my experience) and they'll invariably respond, " don't know." The parish covers an area of some seven miles, and in the course of a long walk in which I interviewed from fifteen to twenty persons with some enquiry touching local matters, the only individual in whom I suc- ceeded in awakening an interest was an Indian, who wanted to negociate for bead baskets at a dollar each, which I could buy in Montreal for half the money. Finding his endeavors unsuccessful, he finally was reduced to the same level as his white brother, and like him " didn't know." I am much afraid that these simple people's education has been sadly neglected in that mad pursuit for wealth, characteristic of places of a larger growth. However, as I did'nt care about purchasing intelligence at the cost of my pocket, I gave up the further pursuit of knowledge respecting this really charming spot. No. II. FROM OAOOUNA TO TROIS PISTOLES. Returning from the village of Cacouna to the station, during which the horses travelled at a rate of speed only attained once a month, so the driver informed me, I found the train was an hour late. I fully believe that had those horses been aware of the fact they would have walked all the way. Having plenty of time on my hands, I took a turn around the outskirts of some of the farms along the railrcad track. In almost every instance ignorance and neglect on the part of their owners seemed to pervade those ape gies for fields, enclosed by abject apologies for fences. Good, rich land, most of it black loam, was given over to the weeds. It is true there 'i i had been an attempt made to clean a few fieids, probably several decades since, and the effort was evidently one worth commemorating; for to mark the spots when these feats of industry had been achieved, piles of stones lie in the centre of the fields, mo? s-grown and covered with bankrupt ver- dure. Seriously ppeaking, tho habuanta of Cacouna do not appreciate the wealth which Nature has given them. Probably the advantages of the Intercolonial may dawn upon their imaginations say thirty or forty years from now ; but judging from the present indication I am afraid my antici- pations are a trifle premature. At 2 o'clock the train arrived in 8ight,'and after many efforts stopped about five hundred yards aJbove the station, another illustration of the proverb " The more haste, the less speed." This, I afterwards ascertained from the conductor, was owing to an accident to the patent air brakes ; two of the tubes of which had burst, thereby rendering the vacuums partly inoperative. The same official said he had patched them up as well as he could, but had some of the more nervous passengees been aware that they had travelled with broken air brakes below tbem, I fancy they would have been somewhat anxious. Of course the mishap was unforseen, but the incident f hould be mentioned. Trifles such as these scmetlmes give birth to " Appalling Accidents " and " Coroner's Inquests." ST. ARSENE ip the next stopping place on the road, four miles distant from Cacouna. Between the two the grade is very steep, although the cuttings through which the track passes are not deep. The sub-soil is mostly rock, with a surface soil of claj and loam. The village lies south of Cacouna and has a population of about two thousand souls. The land is remarkably rich, consisting of red clay and loam. The population is exclusively agricultural, And the farms in this small place are said to be excelled by none in the Province for richness and average yield of acreage. To show you how greatly in advance are these people of their neighbors in Cacouna, it was stated to me, and not by a resident, that many of the farmers are worth $20,000 a piece, most of which has been derived from the r*;eipt of agri- cultural produce. Eight miles east of St. Arsene is ISLE VERTE, having a population of four thousand person . It is in the county and district of Temifcouata. On the island itself, from which the parish takes its name, there are about 60 farmers, who subsist chiefly on agriculture and fishing. My informant, an intelligent gentleman, residing at Trois Pistoles, and who has travelled extensively on this continent and in England, assured me that the shooting at this place is unsurpassed. In the spring and fall there are thousands of wild geese, ducks, snipe and larks. In fact the island is said to literally swarm with them at these seasons of the year- The fishery, too, is said to be the best between Quebec and Rimouski. Herring, sardines, shad, eels, and a lew salmon are the staple articles of pisciculture. The island is comparatively unknown, although of late 8 yeats a few have ■visited the place for the sake of its shooting. The view from the island commands several prominant points of interest along the St. Lawrence ; but it would be invidious to name this as specially attract- ive, for as far as I have yet proceeded the scenery along the r&ute has been extremely fine, almoat from any point you may wish to name. The parish of Isle Verte in located on the maiu land, opposite the island. The greate" part of it lies low, beneath the hill which faces the river. The people are exclusively French,'and are, of course, Roman Catholics. There is a church and twelve schools, and the inhabitants are moral, thrifty and attend to their own business. Ten miles further east you arrive at TROIS PISTOLES, which is a pla je of some importance. As you approach the village by the Intercolonial Railway uridge you have, from the cars, an exceedingly pleasant view of hill and dale, skirting the little river of that name, wnich empties itself into the St. Lawrence. This bridge crosses the river of Trois Pistoles, and is built of iron. It is so firmly built that you cannot tell, save by the hollow murmur of the water below, that you arc not on terra firma. Its length is five hundred feet, the height from the watgr to the floor being 80 feet. There is a side spaoe for foot passengers, and the whole is a massive structure, but by no means heavy in appeu-ace. Before giving you a descripton of the place I must say something about THE RAILWAY STATIONS, which so far, ai-o admirably built, and well adapted for the purposes required. But strange to say, the station masters don't appear to be able to give you much information respecting the resources of the country, and, in conse- quence you are compelled to resort to the inhabitants for details. The same smooth, easy running is maintained all along the track. What few cuttings you have to pass through are excellent specimens of excavation, the quality of the work being apparent to the most unskilled amateur in rail- road engineering. THE STATION ^ here beaic evidence of lae enterprise of the residents. Already several new buildings are iu course of erection, one of which is intended as a fi »> class hotel ; the others will be fitted up as storehouses A refreshment room is in operation, and is well patronised. TROIS PISTOLES HAS A TRADITION which dates back two hundred years ago, and from which it derives its name. I waa looking for the recital of some sanguinary deed of Indian warfare, and took out my note book to record some horrible disaster in connection with the legend, whii;h would combine romance ■with adventure, and "hair breadth 'scapes" from Indian torture of by-gone times, but I was mistaken, I would require a far more proliiic imaginatloa than I posBcss to build a novel upon the following : It is said that 20a 9 years ago a weary, way-worn traveller was desirous of being conveyed to- the opposite shore of the St. Lawrence. But the ferry man of those rimes refused to row him over in his gondola unless he paid him three pistoles,. cash in advance. The pilgrim was about to accede to the boatman's requv ^iet built at an angle of forty-five degrees. Four miles east of Assametquaghan, three spans of sixty feet each, over McKinnon's Brook. Two miles west of Mill Stream station, over the Metapedia, four spans,, each of 100 feet, built on the "skew." SNOW SHEDS. The only snow sheds between Tartague and Mill Stream are : — Five miles east of Tartague, 400 feet long and twenty feet deep. The second is fivo miles east of Amqui station, 600 feet long and 20 feet deep. The highest elevation between St Octave and Mill Stream is at Lake Malalat, half way lutween Tartague and Sayabec, at the 188th mile, of 743 feet above th(j sea. Causaposcal is the only station between St. Octave and Mill Stream which has a building. Tenders, however, are are being given for the construction of others as soon as possible. The descent from the cars into the cheerless spaces at which you suppose you are going to find a platform and depot is not inviting. Surrounded by rock, mountain and crag, not even a sign of human life to meet you, is not calculated to arouse the spirits even of the most sanguine of mortals. In wet weather the mud is plentiful and adhesive. In addition to the cuttings already givta between St. Octave and Mill Stream there are NINE TUNNELS under the line, eight of which were driven through the rock to save masonry for culverts. Two are 12 feet, one is 9 feet, and five are 6 feet in diameter. The largest is 227 feet long, and the excavation 908 cubic yards. The others are from 69 to 190 feet long. Perhaps the one most dfticult of construction is that by which the Tartague stream is diverted. This is 18 X 20 feet, 454 feet long, and the excavation is 4,540 cubic yards. The total excavation represented by these nine tunnels, is 6,745, and to their approaches J 4,000 cubic yards. In the diversion of the river alone there were excavations of 7,500 cubic vards of rock, and 20,654 cubic yards of earth. When the reader has well digested these facts he will be able to form some> idea of the euoimous difficulties which have had to be surmounted in the construction of this portion of the line. Leaving Mill Stream station we travel ten miles further aad arrive at THE METAPEDIAC. The station is about 39 feet above the sea kvel. It is approached by a bridge o le pattern, constructed of rolled plr.tes and flat li- 24 - U: iron struts. It has five spans of 200 feet each, and crosses the Restigouche. Seven miles east of the station is anothe- of seven spans of 600 feet each, crossing Christopher's Brook. Tlif course of the line from St. Octav j, when you leave the St. Lawrence is south by west until you come to Lake Malafat, between Tartague and Sayabec. This lake is about a quarter of a mile long and ha) / a mile wide. You continue twelve miles oast by south, when you sight the Metapdia Lake about half way from its centre. It is sixteen milts long. You th-'u ijtrike Salmon Lake, 15 miles distant. The latter is in reality a swelling of the river which flows through it. A Iter crossing the Restigouche you are in the Province of New Bruns- wick. The Valley of the Metapediac wiil probably be within five years from now the best known conutry in the Dominion. It is seventy miles long ; extending from Restigouche to the lake. The line of railway closely follows the course of the river. The nature of the surrounding country is not favorable to the location of a line of railway ; but civilization is indebt- ed to science for an acquaintance with this picturesque country. The cost of construction of some portions of the line along the valley, which required heavy masonry, and which necessitated the hauling of large blocks of stone, was at the rate of $70,000 per mile. At Mill Stream and r.t Mann's Hill you will find embankments built on slopes from 150 to 200 feet, and which contain from 70,000 to 80 COO cubic yards of excavation. Solid rock, cuttings from 20 to 46 feet in depth are frequently encountered. The valley for about half its distance is not more tlian half a mile wide, and is traversed by the Metapedia road, a military highway built by tho Government in I8G2. It is on the east side of the river, and extends from Cross Point to St. Flavie. Tht; hills along the valley, which range com- mences above the source of the river at Grand Lake, are mostly conical in shape, of an altitude of from 500 to 000 feet. The windings of the river, as you catch the sun's reflection from time to time upon it, resemble some huge but graceful silvery snake whose lustrous scales give back a million scin- tilations. The scenery through t'l' .alley is more grandly picturesque at sunrise and sunset, when you have Nature robed in all her golden t^ilendor. The river rises in Lake Metapediac, 20 miles from the St. Lawrence, and is surrounded by a well wooded country. Along the Lake Metapediac, there are numerous small islands, irrejjular in shape but beautiful in appearance. The Indien meaning of the Metapediac river, is " musical waters." lU principal tributaries are the Amqui, Causaposcal, Assametquaglian and Mill i^tream. The Cansaposcal form.-* a junction with the main river and is also known as the Forks. The land iu rear of the mountains is said to bo good along the .rea of the valley ; but it would not pay as a settlement. L're are over 100 rapids along tlie Metapediac, some of which are so swift that none but an experienced canoe oarsman dare venture over them. To write up the valley of the Metaptdiac as it should be written would need a small volume. Justice cannot bo done to tlie subject in a single letter. The villxiro, though small, is excellently adapted for farming purposes but within a limited area. Tho population is about 400. 25 "CAMPING OUT" The following sketch will give the reader a good idea of the attraction Tield out to tourists and anglers : — ' After the summit level is passed the train desceiids at the rate of 40 miles «n hour down the valley of the Metapediac and along the banks of that beautiful river. As the train flies along down the valley, we fear we are likely to run in the river alongside of us. But the road-bed is good, and the steel rails make the bed of the road like a billiard table. So we are landed at tiie Metapediac station, opposite our friend Daniel Eraser's hospit- ble door, before we realize that we are out of the Province of Quebec. The Valley of the Metapediac contains some of the finest scenery in the Dom- inion, and as the air is cool and good fishing is to be had here, I would advise tourists or invalids to take a trip to the delightful place by cars, and he or they could not be disappointed. We met a party of gentlemen from St. John and Nov Vorkat Dalhousie en route for fishing quarters on the grand Cascapcdia, tlie other side of the Bay of Chaleur. They had a tug steamer hired to take them over (35 miles), and offered us a passage with them, which would take us very near the ;mouth of the little Cascapedia ; but when the time of sailing arrived and no appearance of the steamer, we took the opportunity of a fair wind and tide and the offer of a good boat, and arrived at our destination in 3.^ hours, after a glorious sail down the Bay. On Monday morning we had our two birch canoes and four men ready to ascend the river 20 miles. Loadi' g a canoe Avith our baggage and provi- sions for 14 days, we started on our way up the river in the directiun of the Shick Shock mountain, and arrived at our camp at 6 p.m., after a hard day's pulling. Some of the rapids look very ugly to a person not accustom- ed to this mode of travel. Having built a large shanty 30 by 20 feet the first time we came here, we soon found ourselves at home in this wild, mountainous place, distant 18 miles from the nearest house. The air was bracing, and the river water as clear as crystal, and as cold as ice. Next morning, after a good bath in the river, wliich made our teeth chatter, we started to lish, and went up ten miles to the foot of the river, where the principal spawning bcdu of the salmon are. We had very line sea trout fishing for the rest of the week, the fish weighing five pounds each, and gave excellent sport in landing them. On Saturday we went diiwn to New Richmond, and on the way netted forty-three trout and three salmon, of about twenty-pounds each. On the following Tuesday 1 went up the river about eight miles, and got two salmon and forty trout, averaging as above in weight, and altogether, we got in seven days fourteen salmon, and 800 pounds of very fine trout, of which we pickled two barrel.s, aftir giving to our friends as much more fresh. On our way up the river we siiw a very larg.; eagle rising from oft" an island in front of us, and on ariding we found the remains of a dead rabbit, on which the monarch of birds was making his dinner. We also 26 saw the fresh track of moose and deer on the island opposite our camp. One of our Indians, (Black John) one evening went from the camp a short •distnuce in search of birch bark to make a canoe, when he came to a large tree, newly-stripped of its outer bark '>y a bear, to get at the inner bark, of which he is very fond. On our way down the river our me n told us of A BEAVER DAM, four hundred yards from the bank of the river. So, being anxious to see it,, we took the things out of one of the canoes, and in a trice the four men had it on their shoulders, and off wo started for the beaver dam. We very soca arrived at a large sheet of water, about half a mile in length, formed by the beavers felling large trees, somn 14 to 18 inches in diameter across the lower end, and^hen smaller timber laid at an angle of 45 degrees into the ground, with their upper ends restin n the cross beams. They then fill up between with clay and small sticks, till the dam is as tight as a drum. Near the upper end they have two houses,one about 1 2 feet in diame- r end the other about eight feet (which, I presume, is the ladies' house or nursery). The entrance to these houses is from below water and the shape conical or very like a cock of hay. The bottom of the dam is covered with a beautilul green carpet of moss, and as tht* water is very clear, you can see ridges along the bottom and holes in them where the beaver makes him- self at home when he is afraid of man or gets tired of his two story castle. On examining the chips which these creatures cut from the trees they had felled, I found some of them 4 to 5 inches long, and cut as if with a woodman's axe. Having engaged our schooner to come back for us on Saturday, to the- mouth of the river, we arrived dripping with wet, but in excellent health and with good appetites. We found oar skipper just arrived and ready for us. At 5 o'clock nextmorninjj ■^e hoisted sail, and with a fair wind and delicious trip arrived at Dalhousie tho same afternoon. IVo. VI. CAMPBELLTON AND DALHOUSIE. After riding through thirteen mles of charming country Campbellton is reached. It is located almost at the foot of the Sugar Loaf Mountain, 996 feet high, by actual measurement. Between Metapedia station and Campbellton there is a cutting 40' » feet long and 25 wide. It is difficult to say which is the more beautifwi river, the Bestigouche or the Metapedia, which we have left behind us. The line of railway follows the course ot the river. The Bestigouche river is in the county of Madaweqka. It is 220 miles long, and for half that distance it forms the dividing line between the Provinces of Quebec and New Bnmswick. Five rivers empty into it, 27 of which the chief are the Metapediac, the Cascapediac and the Gautawam- kedgwick. The Restigooche empties into the Bay Chaleur, ard flows through an extensive timber tract. The river gives employment to a number of fishermen, who derivo their maintenance from the abundance of salmon, trout, etc., which is to be be found in its waters. Lurge vessels can navigate it to within thirty miles from its mouth. The Bonaventure mountains extend along its narrow shore, and give the eye every variety of landscape it can desire, filling the mind with wonder and admiration for their magnificent and wild beauty. The town of Campbellton is small, and its population does not exceed fiOO persons. The Intercolonial will, however, be the means of adding materially to its prosperity. Already several new stores are in course of erection, and the general business air of the townsfolk strikes you favorably. Many of them are Scctch settlers, thrifty and pushing. There are several Government buildings in the vicinity of the station. The station is of brick, and is occupied by the railroad cashier, Molson's Bank agency, oiflce.s of the Assistant Superintendent, Chief Engineer's office, the living apartments of the Station Master, beside the usual ticket ofiice, waiting rooms, &c. A refreshment room has been added to the station. North of the station house is the freight house. On the opposite side of the track is the blacksmith's shop, the coal shed, the oil house, engine house and car shop. Campbellton is full of historical and local interest. It has two churches — the Presbyterian and Roman Catholic. The former is the first Protest- ant church east of Cacouna, 183 miles we t. I had the pleasure of meeting two gentlemen who are the sons of the first white woman of British parents born in this section. The gentlemen to whom I refer are A. Fergusonand Robert Ferguson, Esquires, Conservatives of the old school. Their names are so well known along the whole line that I am sure they will be lecog- nized at once by a larpe number of persons. Both are bachelors and keep open house with that generous hospitality typical of the English squire. Although well advanced in years, they are stout, strong and vigorous. The Messrs. Ferguson own a large fishery in front of their property. The farms here are in excellent order. For the sake of comparison I obtained the AVERAGE YIELD PER ACRE of the various crops, and append a list, so that you may see how it com- pares with those at Trois Pistoles, where, you will remember, I obtained a similar statement. Barley gives an average of 10 bushels per acre ; rye 10 bushels; wheat 8 bushels ; potatoes 24j barrels to^one barrel of seed. The figures with regard to oats aud buckwheat I was unable to procure, but I am told they ar' very satisfactory. There are two salmon canning establishments here, but they are not in operation at present. The first is owned by Mr. Hoegg, of Portland, Maine,,. 28 just at the brck of the station ; thp second by Mr. Haddow, of Dalhousie, four miles east of Campbellton. To accomodate this trade the Govern- ment has constructed six refrigburned by the French themselves in order to impede the progress of the British fleet under Commodore Byron from ascending the river. The re- mains of a portion of the wreck off Old Church Point can be seen at low water, bot time has ro firmly fastened its timbers in the river's bed that it is impossible to investigate its interior. Mr. Adam Ferguson has in his possession two iron 18-pounders from these vessels. One is of twisted iron, apparently hammered, the other is cast. They have tlie Jleur tie lya of France stamped upon them, and are covered with, and partly eaten away by rust. Tlie same genth-man lias a swivel guu captured from an Ameri- can privateer during the war of 1812, which bears the broaf* arrow mark. As the country became cleared, the settlers found cannon balls imbedded in the trees and earth. They account for the fact by supposing that the guns were loaded before i,ue vessels weie fired, as no fighting took place at this point. Mr. Lefebvre, of Carleton, 30 miles from here, ^las or had A CURIOUS INDIAN IIELIC ■which merits a description. While tht^ Metapediac military road (already referred to in my last lettei) was being built on the Quebec side, six miles from Campbellton, the workmen, in excavating the bank, came across the remains of what was supposed to be an Indian. The head reposed on a clear cut triangle of stone. On the region of the heart of the skeleton was h ■si 29 a email marble ornament, suspended by a metal chain, either of copper or- brass, very much corroded. The ornament is cut from a piece of greenish- blue marble, perfectly smooth. It is six inches long, and in shape similar to a whip-saw file. By the side of the remains there was also found a metal chisel or axe, something like a ship carpenter's hawsyingiron. These are the only pieces of metal ever found in this part of the country. Their discovery has given rise to much speculation, and some associate the ar- ticles with Freemasonry. It mav be thai, this is correct, for j heard from an army officer in Kansas that his life was once saved by a Sioux Indian who appeared familiar with several Masonic signs. The fact however, is one in which antiquaries will find ample scope for conjecture. It was with regret that I was compelled to leave this charming country,, replete with delightful scenery and romantic incident, and proverbially hospitable. Before closing my description, it may surprise your musical readers to learn that young ladies who have never been fifty miles away- from it in their lives are familiar with Thalberg's pianoforte studies. Fancy hearing operatic morceaux in this country of rocks, hills and primitive sim- plicity ! Campbellton w !'. always be gratefully remembered by your cor- respondent, DALHOUSIE. Dalhousie station is nine miles east of here. It is seventy feet above sea level. One mile east of Campbellton station you cress another iron bridge of three spans of sixty feet ^dch over Mile Creek. The nature of the country remains the same, so I will not recapitulate the superb scenery to which no person can do justice. The track here is as good as ever ; but the ballasting is not yet complete. The rails are as smooth and as even, as a billiard-table ; the work being substantial and thorough. The town of Dalhousie is on the beautiful Baie des Chaleur, seven miles distant, over a rocky, uncomfortable road, full of ruts and mire. I remained there with the firm conviction that I had placed the mosquitoes under deep obligation for considerable nutriment. If they hadn't obtained the traditional ounce of flesh, they certainly had no reason to complain of not getting enough blood. Mosquitoes have that keen sense of perception which enables them to scent a stranger half an hour before the cars arrive,, and you find them waiting to receive you. They need no introduction be- cause they introduce themselves. If any one was desirous of ascertaining the nature of this country, he need only look at my swollen features to get a tolerably fair idea of its rugged nature. My lineaments are all hills and valleys. Seriously speaking, the misquitoes are an unmitigated nui- sance. The railway ru is back from Eel Eiver to Shore's Cove for six miles, nearly in a straight line. The people feel very sore at its omitting to touch the town. But this would have necessitated an additional distance of three miles thjough costly cuttings, which would have had to be made. The direction which the people desired was as follows : — Crossing Eel River m I'i 30 Bay, runninj; around the Blore to Dalhousie lighthouse, passing bj the Hamilton monument (t« which reference will be made directly), through the town and along the bank of the Bestigouche to the present station. I understand that offers have been made by contractors to build a branch line for $50,000, but it is questionable whether a good road could be built for this amount. At any rate, if the Dalhousians ever wish to avail themselves of the natural advantages the place possesses, and which would be increased fifty per cent., this line will have to be built, and until it is the Intercolonial will be of but little use to them. . I have said the town is situated at a point on the Bale des Chaleur. It is bounded wtst and north by the Bestigouche, on the east by the Bay, and on the south by the back country. It is naturally and admirably fitted for a deep watat terminus. Its population is about 1,200. The town has an area of five miles. The principal industry is lumber, which }'ieldB an average of 15,000,000 per year, and 3,000 tons of square timber, principally spruce and Wrch. The principal lumber merchant is George MofFatt, Esq., M.P., Conservative, He owns a large saw mill here. POINTS OP INTEBEST. Harailton monument. This was erected by the inhabitants in memory of the first merchant of Dalhousie. Indeed, the town was originally named after him. It is said to be the largest monument erected to a pri- vate individual in the Dominion. It stands on Dalhousie Hill, from which may be seen the harbor, and the difi'erent churches, viz., the Episcopal, the Eoman Catholic, and the Pfesbyterian. Numerous drives and walks can be seen from this elevation. Fossil remains were discovered about two years ago south-east of the town. Along the coast and within a quarter of a mile of Dalhousie, there is abundance of herring, cod, eel and salmon. HAMII/fON'S MONUMENT is of free stone. It was cut in Glasgow, Scotland, and erected in 1851. It stands 20 feet high, and bears the following inscription : — In memory of Captain John Hamilton, a native of King's Cross, Arran, Scotland. He was the first merchant who settled at Dalhousie, and along with many benevolent actions, built St. John's Presbyterian Church, for which his friends and countrymen here thus record their gratitude. He passed the last 10 years of his life in his native land and died at Irvine, 24th August, 1868. Aged 80 years. You will be able to form a pretty good idea of the economical tenden- tsies of the people of Dalhousie when I tell >ou that the Government Dis- > 31 trict Saving's Bank received deposits in the county last year amoanting to $120,000, exclusive of money held in Government bonds. The mv ney or- der office alone did the largest business of any office within New Bruns- wick, not excepting St. John, up to last year. This may be accounted for by the absence of any local banking branch in the town. The population in the county is about 5,000. It is estimated that in 1874 there was probably 400,000 pounds of salmon put up within the county of Resttgouche, and about the same quantity of lobsters. (By the way, the shells of the latter are extensively used by some farmers as manure. They say it makes an excellent article.) There are four persons engaged in the lobster and salmon business, viz., Mr. George Haddow, Mr. Hoegg, Mr. Windsor, at Campbellton and New Mills, and Mr. Bain, also at the latter place. New Mills is sixteen miles east of Dalhousie and will be referred to at the proper time. The advantage of Dalhousie, bituatcd as it is, will at once bo apparent to the reader if ho will only look at its situation on the map. I only regret that my time will not permit oi a further description of this lovely point, which from nearly every side is exceedingly beautiful. ISO. VII. FROM DALHOUSIE TO BATHUEST. Before the traveller reaches Bathurst from Dalhousie he passes five sta- tions, the vicinity of each being noted, more or less, for its salmon fishing. These stations arc — Oharlo, ten miles east of DalhouHic, forty-five feet above sea level. Half way between it and Dalhousie there is an iron bridge, with a single span of 100 feet, over Eel River. One mile east of Charlo Station there is another bridge over the Charlo River, which empties into the Baio des Chaleurs, of three spans of fifty feet each ; and within a few hundred feet there is ft third bridge of two spars of fifty feet each. New MiL. is the second station, and is thirty feet above the sea level. I£alf a mile east of it is a bridge of two spans, each sixty feet, over the Benjamin River, which also empties into the Bale des Chaleurs. Six miles east of New Mills we come to another bridge of a single span of eighty feet, over Nash's Creek; and a mile distant from the same, crossing Louison's Brook, is one of sixty feet. Jacquet River is the next station, nine miles from Charlo. It has an elevation of forty^>nc feet. At the 227th mile from Riviere du Lonp, the level rises to 227 feet above the sea. I should have mentioned that at one mile west of the station there is a bridge of 300 feet in length— three 32 \% 1 1; Bpftns, of 100 feet each. Four miles east of the station is another, crossing the Belleduue Kiver, of a single span of eighty feet. Pelledune Station, nine miles from the former, is built at an elevation of eighty feet. Two miles east of it is a snow-shed 300 fiet long and fifteen feet deep. Near it, is another snow-shed GOO feet long aud eighteen feet deep. The next station is Petit Roche, eight miles from the former, at a sea level of eighty-nine feet. Two miles west of it a bridge, with a single span of eighty feet, crosses Elm Tree Kiver. Three miles east of the sta- tion, over the Nigados Kiver, is a bridge with a single span of eighty feet.. At the 238th mile from Riviere du Loup are two cuttings, or snow-sheds r the first 1,000 feet long and twenty- five feet deep; the second 378 feet long and twenty feet deep. This latter completes the number of snow-sheds, which gives a total of fifteen, representing 10,9T8 yards of excavation, mostly through solid rock, between St. Fabian and this point. The aver- age depth of these cuttings is twenty-six and a half feet. These facts may appear "ather dry reading, but they speak of gigantic difficulties overcome, of long days of mental study and of many months of toil and labor. l)ry as they may appear to some, they tell their tale of successful engineering skill of which modern science may well be proud. Three miles west of Bathurst Station a bridge of five spans, of 100 feet each and seventy feet high, crosses the Tete-ti-gouche. It is a splendid structure of the lattice girder pattern. The piers and abutments contair* 2,400 cubic yards of solid masonry. The rails on the bridge are sixty-five feet from the river bed. It would take too long to go thoroughly into the question of the coa- fitruction of these bridges, which would only interest professional men. However, the general reader has a sufficient description of them to form a faint notion of the quality and quantity of the work along the line. The above stations have the same neat apptarance which those west of Camp- bellton possess, though much smaller. Twelve miles from Petit Roche and 252 from Riviere d)i Loup is BATHURST. The station is at an elevation of thirty-five feet above the sea. The building is built of brick, sixty-six feet long and thirty feet wide. It 13 built upon a stone foundation. The town is one and a quarter mile from the station. It %vas originally settled in the year 1780 by three French settlers named Hache, Doucette, and D'Aigle. The early history of New Brunswick is closely identified with the place. The reader, if she or he be so minded, would do well to study its history, which abounds with histor- ical romance exceedingly interesting. My only desire, '.owever, is rather to deal with the present age, and to tell what it has achieved in this- era of progress and competition. I ■ H3 Bathurst, Gloucester County, ie situated to the east of the station, and is built on the shores of the harbor of Bathurst Bay, into which the rirers Nlpisiguit, Tete-a-goHche, Middle River and Little River flow. These streams are not tributaries, but independent rivers. The harbor is a beautiful slicet of water, as smooth as glass, and affords capital boating. The harbor is two and a half miles in diameter, and is entered f in Nlpi- siguit Bay, which is nearly landlocked, and forms a portion of the Baiedes Chaleurs. The channel, fourteen feet deep, runs between Carron and Alston points, three miles from the town. Tl»t portion of the harbor above the bridge, which connects the town with the village of 8t. Peter's (by which name it is said Bathurst was eriginally called), is named the Basin. This bridge is half a mile long. It may be stated that in order to icake the railway more convenient, a project has been mooted for the con- struction of another bridge from the foot of the principal street (Water street) directly across to the railway station through the diameter of the circle. This is alleged to be necessary to meet the requirements of the business men. Ten thousand dollars, it is thought, would'be sufficient for the purpose, and application to the Dominion Government is contem- plated to meet this want. This improvement would sliorten the distance to the town by half a mile. The town covcis an area of a mile square. It is built on a peninsula and contains a population of 1,200 persons. It is governed by the munici- pality of the parish, and sends two representatives to that body. Its local ■member in the Provincial Government is F. K. Burns, Esq , who is opposed to the general policy of the Administration. The town is judiciously planned, and the streets all run at right angles, and are well built. There are about a dozen streets in all. At the point at which the Nipisigiiit enters the harbor, a bridge 700 feet long is built. The river has a sufficient depth of water to permit of navi- gation two miles above its mouth. Near it the water dashes boldly along the shore — on the town side. The locality is favorable for milling pur- poses, and wc"ld be well supplied with lumber frrra the banks of the river, which, ihroughout its course of 100 miles, is well timbered with pine and spruce of good quality. From the vicinity of the other rivers large supplies could be had. POINTS OF INTEREST. E.\cellent fishing can be had at Rough Waters, the Railway Bridge, Round Rocks, Papineau Falls, Middle Landing ; at the Little and Big Chain of Rocks, and at Grand Falls. The latter place is twenty miles from Bathurst, abovo which no salmon can ascend. Tourists are pouring in from all parts of the comntry. I met a company of gentlemen from Halifax, St. John and Montreal, all eager for sport, faithful disciples of the lamented Izaak. At all these places I have mentioned there are fishing pools, and the scenery is in keeping with the beauty of the town, which for quiet, rural and simple loveliness is unsurpassed anywhere in the Pro- 3 34 vince. The view of Grand Falls is very charming. It is approached through a narrow gorge, one and a half miles long, between tall, towering rliffg, which cast their shadows acrosH the stream. In some places the sun never shines upon it. The water is as smooth as glass, and the retreat is one where a love-sick maiden could pine away and die with perfect stjccess. If you want a good drive, you have your choice of the Bay Shore, Ca'"- ron, or Alston Points, where, if you feel inclined, yon may batlie, or fish for cod. A drive around the Basin also would well repay you, crossing the Little and Middle llivers to enable you to get a splendid view from Rocl.y Bridge. If you are fond of agricultural scenery you can find it along the Tete-a-gouche River, passing tiie splendid farm and the former summer residence of the late Francis Ferguson, Esij. Here you can esti- mate at its proper value the agricultural wealth of the countr)' — notably the well cultivated and richly stocked farm of Hon. John Ferguson. This farm is said to be the finest in the Trovince, and contains nearly 400 acres under the most approved system of cultivation. The Court House and jail, now famous in connection with the trial of the Caraquet rioters, can be seen from tlic hill. The former is a substantial building and a credit to the town. If these are not enough attractions, there are others, ad libitum. COMMERCIAL. The preserving and canning of salmon forms the most important com- mercial item at present. Large through the Money Order Department. It is estimated that goods to the i j^ ount of $300,000 are sold annually m the town. The system of long credits aiid barter heretofore, through necessity, observed, is now rapidly giving way to a ready money basis, from which all parties are beginning to derive a marked benefit. Business here is healthy, imports being light and the demand steAdy. This demand is stimulated by the Intercolonial. The prospects of more than an average crop are encouraging. The town is also deriving its siiare of income from the large number of tourists who pour in from all quarters. In the trade of canned fish, Br.thurst is probably one of the most im- portant stations along the North Shore. The largest firms in this branch, > 35 of business are lilessrs. Ferguson, Ranklnc & Co., Windsor, and others. The quantity of lobsters put up this year, it is thought, will exceed that of salmon, owing to the fact that most of the latter liave been exported fresh by rail. Among the larger exporters are Messrs. Baldwin k Molloy, R. Armstrong and Enoch Pifer. These parties uso FISH FREEZERS, by which they are enabled to hold their fish until the market rilers- favor- able inducements for their sale. The one in use, by Mes.sra. Ualdwin & Molloy, is extremely ingenious and simp'e in iti construction. It merely consists ui two refrigerator vaults, 20 feet long, 12 leet wide, and 8 J feet high. Lach vault is a sepa- rate chamber. The first contains 20 pipes, It inches in diameter ; the second, the same number of pipes of an ecjual diameter, and three cylin- ders of a diameter of 1 "^ inches. These pipes are fed with ice and salt *rom the top, and around the side ot these chambers is a trough, in which it is placed. The walls arc, on one side, 15 inchch thick ; well lined with sawdust, and on t!ic other 2 feet in thickness. It will hold .'!,000 salmon, and by some secret process, the fish retains its natural color aad bright- ness. At the time of my visit, there were about fifteen hundred salmon in store, weighing from 8 to :!0 pounds. The temperature depends upon the regularity and quantity of the supply of ice and salt. The interior was arranged with trays, upon which the fish were placed, anil the ther- mometer registered IS"* above zero, although it is often as low as 16" Coming out of the open air, with the tlK^rmometcr at 8V° in the shade, into this intensel}' cold atmosphere, the shock to the system was exceedingly telling. The cold strikes into your bones, and it was several hours before the chill left me. It was so cold that an inch of snow encrusted the ex- terior of the pipes. This invention is patented, and could be made to apply to household purposes. I saw some hne mackerel here, weighing from two to three pounds, selling for two cents each. GENERAL REMARKS. The predominating creed here is the Roman Catholic, although there are in addition to the Roman Catholic Church, the churches of the Epis- copalian, Presbj'terian and Methodist denominations. The Conservative element is gaining strength. The Free School question is the most im- portant subject of local and provincial politics. A concession, I believe, was obtained from the Provincial Board of Education last year by the local representative, whereby the Catholic ratepayers should receive some bene- fit from the object for which the people are taxed. With one exception, the hotel accommodation is only middling, and that exception is the Wil- bur House, a good, comfortable hotel, which is scarcely large enough for the number of visitors who go there. /f 36 IVO. VII. W''M FROM BATHURST TO MIEAMIOHI. Before writing of the Miramichi district, which includes the towns of Chatham and Newcastle, mention must be made of the work Riong the road. There are three stations between these points, a distance of forty-four miles. The first is Red Pine, three hundred and thirty-one feet above sea level, but before this is reached you cross a bridge three miles east of Bathurst Station, over Little River. It is a single span of sixty feet. Two miles further is another, crossing the Nipisiguit River, of six spans, of one hundred feet each and thirty-eight feet above the rii^er. This is a lattice girder. The masonry is of granite, and the piers and abutments are founded in solid rock. The cost of the bridge alone was $60,000. Five miles west of Red Pine, and crossing the brook of that name is a plat«-girder bridge, with three spans of forty feet each. The granite masoury appears to bo built to last all doomsday, and gives evidence of thoroughly finished work. The structure is handsome and imposing, and affords a fine photographic study. On this section (16) there is a total of 2,318 yards of first-class masonry, 955 yards of second-class, and 350,000 yards of earth cuttings. The next station is Bartibogiie, 514 feet elevation above the sea. This is the highest point between Bathurst and Newcastle. Four miles east of the station and crossing the Bartibogue river, which empties into the Bay Chaleur, is a lattice girder bridge, with a single span of eighty feet, ap- proached from the east by an embankment containing 60,000 cubic yards of earth. One mile west of the next station, you pass through a rock cutting one and a quarter mile long, containing 125,000 cubic yards, and tear by there is an embankment containing 60,000 cubic yards. The third station is Beaver Brook, at an elevation, above sea level, of three hundred and twenty-four feet. The line along this portion of the road is nearly straight, passing through a dull, uninteresting country, which, in contrast to the beautiful character of the landscapes through which you have travelled, heightens your appre- ciation of the splendid views left behind. Ten miles from Beaver Brook you arrive at Miramichi Station. It is one hundred and thirty-one feet above sea level. The water is supplied from a brook, nearly two miles distant, by a reservoir six hundred by two hundred and fifty feet. Its construction cost $10,000. « ^ ■ 37 THE MIRAMICHI DISTRICT. The celebrated lumbci- reigon traversed by the Miramichi river, which drains 6,000 square miles of territory, is so well known by repute that it does not need more than a passing mention of its principal features. The river is divided into the Norjh-west and South-west branches. The head- waters of the latter arc in Nortbuml)erland county, near the Nipisiguit. The former takes its rise in the lakes of Victoria and Carleton coimties. The greatest depth of the Miramichi, where its branches unite is abovo Newcastle. From here it gradually widens into the Bay of Miramichi, and eventually flows into the grc<».t Gulf of the St. Lawrence. The area of Mira- michi proper is about 2,000 miles. It is with regret that time will not permit of dwelling upon the historical associations of this district, the first grant of wiach dates back 1690, to one Denis de Frousac. Cartier's name is closely associated with this tract of country, the timber from which has found its way into all parts of the civilized world. THE GREAT FIRE OF OCTOBER, 1825, will always form a part of the most notable portion of the history of New Brunswick. That vast forest of llame, one hundred miles in length, des troyed 8,000 square miles of country a million dollars worth of property, the lives of 200 persons, nine hundred head of cattle and five hundred buildings. Newcastle was burnt to the ground. Mr. W. K. Reynolds, Jr. of St. John, N. B., has written a graphic history of chis fearful disaster— probably the greatest fire in area the world has ever known. In it ho gives many interesting particulars, and from it we take the above facts — the number of persons excepted. NEWCASTLE is one-fourth of a mile from, and southeast of the station. It is about a mile square, and has a population of nearly 2,000 person^. It stands on the westerly bank of the Miramichi. The principal industry is lumber. In the the town there are two saw mills, with a cutting capacity of from 40,000 to 60,000 feet per day, princi- pally of spruce timber. The largest mill owners are Messrs. D. & J. Ritchie & Co. and W. Park. Esq. Lumbermen over at the mills earn from $1.50 to $2.00 per day. The following CUSTOM HOUSE RETURNS OF LUMBER EXPORTS FOR JUNE, 1876, will enable the reader to arrive at an approximate idea of this branch of ioduBtry. 38 The exports to the European markets, chiefly England, were : — Feet. Battens 89,052 Deals 8,010,925 Deal ends 279,011 Scantling 479,982 Boards 34,531 Palings 420,750 Tons. Birch 30 The coastwise exports, mostly to the United States were : — Feet. Dea.18 273,341 Deal ends 4,000 Scantlings 1,700 Boardb 109,717 Palings 23,825 Laths 238,500 Shingles 47,750 It should be mentioned that this docs not represent all the lumber pro- perly within the port of Newcastle, for in addition to those mills referred to there are three others that cut lumber for Chatham merchants, the products being entered at that port. These would give an additional amount of about ] 1,000,000 feet per annum. Owing to the keen competition with the Pa. ific trade, the canned salmon industry is almost at a stand still, although fresh salmon has been largtly supplied during the present year. From June Ist to 14th there were shipped to the United States 309 boxes, containing 5,444 fish, weigL- ing, say, on an average, ten pounds. The largest shippers are Messrs. H. P« & T. Crocker, Mr. E. C. Tozcr, and Messrs. Donald Morrison & Co. Large quantities of bass are shipped from the northwest stream, about seven miles west of the Branch. These fish are at times so plentiful that as much as $70 worth have been caught in one night. This occurred a short time ago. Shipments of trout, smelts and ocls arc also made on a smaller scale. There is a good-siLcd wharf in the town, the water being sixteen feet deep at low tide, where two river steamers, owned by Messrs. K, R. Call and John ('. IMiller, arrive and depart. The latter gentleman owns a hem- lock bark-extract factory at Derby, nioe miles from Newcastle. One of these vessels, the Era, makes four trips daiiy between Newcastle and Chat- bam. There are also two ferries and four sti'am tugs in operation, which are kept pretty busy during the summer. The town L lit with gas, apparently of good quality. The works are run at the private cost of Alex Stewart, who is the proprietor of the best hotel in the place, the Wavcrley House, which is becoming well known for the excellent comfo.t which its owner provides for his guests. Newcastle is represented in the County Council, consisting of a warden and twenty-one councillors. The county was incojporatod but recently, and met for the > 39 I ,. first time in Jaauary last. Tht. people are Conservatives, and a paper in this interest, the Union Advocate, is circulated largely through the county. There are five churches— the Presbyterian, Episcopal, Roman Catholic, MethodiBt, and Baptist. The first of these predominates. POINTS OP INTEREST. There are many picturesque points in the vicinity of Newcastle. One of these is Mill Cove, one mile below Newcastle. On each side is sloping; high land, and a stream of the same name runs through the valley and supplies power to the grist mill owned by the Hon. R. Hutchison. The locality is well wooded with birch and maple groves, whose dazzling tints of autumn foliage are said to be unsurpassed for their richness of color- Beaubair's Island, owned by the Hon. Peter Mitchell, is also another inter- esting place. It is just below the junction of the branches of the Miramichi River. It is a favorite resort for tourists and ploasure-seekers. Here may be seen the grave of the first British settler, William Davidson, of the Miramichi District, who emigrated thither in 1764, and obtained a large grant of land on the Southwest Branch. He constructed the first schooner built on the Miramichi River in 1773. On his tombstone is the following : Sacred to the Meiribry of . ■t-.: Wm. Davidson, Esq., Reprosf ntative for the County of Northumberland, Province of New Brunswick ; Judge of the Court of Common Pleas ; Contractor for the Masts for His Majesty's Navy. He died on the 1 7th of June 1790, aged 50. He was one of the frst settlers of 'the river, and greatly instrumental in promoting the settlement. He left a widow and five children to deplore their loss. " Memento Mori." Many of the oldest families in St. John are descendants of the above. Had I the time I might tell you of many other interesting features in connection with the island. Good fly-fishing for salmon, trout and gilse may be had at Big Hole, on the Northwest River, fifteen miles distant. The waggon. road is fair, and the steamers will carry you within five miles of it. The people of Newcastle are industrious, thrifty and energetic, as may Ive seen by the many tasteful residences and handsome churches, which are ill on sites favorable for observation. They are hospitable and courteous to stra gers, and whether it be amusement or business which receives their attention, they attend to it thoro^ighly, as the following instance will show : — . HOW THE MIRAMICHI FOLKS AMUSE THEMSELVES. A picnic was given recently by a local temperance society. The day was hot and dusty. After arriving at their destination, the party waiter' foi- somebody to start the amusements. Things were getting "slow," and each waited for the other to enliven the festivities. Among those 40 14 present were several visitors from other parts of the country. What was to be done ? The reputation of Newcastle for fun and humor wa^/ at stake, and that was a serious consideration. The very thought of such a dread- ful calamity threw a funereal tone, \a it were, over the company. Whether the heat or the ginger ' pop" had enervated the party, no one could tell. In a fit of desperation, one of the picnickers offered to wager five cents that he could out-roll his friend a distance of fifty yards. The bet wag taken, and the contestants extended themselves at full length upon the grass. Distance was measured, and the signal given. Now, these two gentlemen were remarkable opposites in their build and appear- ance. One was broad shouldered, but very thin, tapering down to a point, herring-fashion. The other was large, bulky and robust, like a tommy- cod. The race commenced with the thermometer almost 90 ® in the shade. What the thin man lacked in fatness, he made up in speed ; but his fat rival gained an impetus from his very roundness of body. All he had to do was to give himself a jerk every once in a while, and roll him- self by the mere force c ;' own momentum, It was a curious and instructive sight to see the di "e air of gra\ity which settled upon the features of the two parties. No, smile to relieve the business-like air which fastened upon their perspiring coun'.enances. The thin man looked furiously determined, and gained a foot ahead at the start. The fat man, with compressed lips and serious mien, gave himself an extra jerk, and made up the lost distance. The thin man got excited, and scratched his nose badly. The fat man kept on and won the race. It was then a ques- tion for the judges to decide whether the extra size of the fat man's body should not be allowed to the thin man on the start. But it was ably argued that this would not have been just, because the fat man, although larger than his rival, required more strength to roll successfully. However, the defeat of the thin man was repeated in two subsequent races, and the facts are merely mentioned to show that when Newcastle men set about doing' a thing, they do it thoroughly, even at a picnic. i > M IS: rvo. IX. FROM MIRAMIOHI STATION TO CHATHAM JUNCTION. From Miramichi Station to Chatham Junction is six miles, and three miles east of the former an iron bridge of the Phoenixville pattern, 1,200 feet long, of six spans, crosses the north-west branch of the Miramichi River. This is the only structure between the two points ; but it affords a splendid view and is an excellent specimen of massive masonry. There is much to be said about Chatham itself, that I cannot give but a. small space to the mention of the scenery along the line. Suilice it to> i h i h 41 say it is nigged and bare of noteworthy remark, although it is somewhat peculiar from itr very weediness— so to speak. The town of CHATHAM is on the south side of Miramichi River, in the County of Northumber- land. It is the largest town on the North Shore, and has a poitulation of 4,000. Th'? position of the town is direct north ot the station, about half a mile distant. Its approacli by the river, coming from Newcastle, impres- Bcs you favorably by its business-like appearance and commodious wharves. There is a general air of sprightliness about it very pleasing to the stranger. The largest wharf is 900 feet long, with a depth of water at low tide, at one place of twenty feet, and at another of twenty-seven feet. The town is built on a gentle slope. The streets are at right angles and are broad, and well made. The principal street (Water street,) fonns pttrl of the high road. It exteiuls a dlota icc of about a, mile iia the town, and is about sixty feet wide. It is well lighted %vith gas, — far superior in brilliancy to our Montreal gas — has good sidewalks, and the shops are spacious and imposing. The second principal street is Wellington street, running parallel with the former and is sixty-six feet wide. The lower end of the town is encircled by one small liill in its rear, from which a capital view may be had of the town and surrounding cotmtrj'. RELIGIOUS, EDUCATIONAL AND SOCIAL. Chatham is well supplied with churches. It has two Presbyterian, one- Episcopalian, one Methodist, and the Roman Catholic cathedral of the diocese, in connection with which is a college and convent, both largely patrimized. The schools are divided into three districts; three schools in each, besides a high school and a grammar school. The principal build- ings are the Mechanics' Institute and the Masonic Hall, both extremely, cieditable structures. In addition to the usual temperance and chu.jh societies, there are the St. Patrick's, St. George's and Highland Societies, organized for benevolent purposes. The County Poor House, situated at the upper end of the town, is a large building governed by a Board of Commissioners appointed by the county. The management is said to be excellent, each town paying its ratio- of expenses for its own poor, besides a proportionate share for current ex- penses. At the jtime of my visit there were only ten occupants in the building, mostly aged persons, and not one of those ':"ime from Chatham. The Chatham police force consists of but three m.n, whose services are not often required. There are no water works, but the town is well sup- plied with water from numerous springs, and several large tanks are placed at convenient distances for fire purposes. The fire department is a volunteer organization. There is one steam engine, two hand engines, and one chemical extinguisher. A fire broke out during my short stpy, and I had the opportunity of seeing the men^ 42 "tomed out on short notice. This is the first town east of Riviere du Loup that has an organized lire department. It is really extraordinary to find the apathy with which the people of other places regard the possible con- tingency of fire. In small towns, completely shut out from aid, should a conflagration occur, there could be no possible means of escape from the disastrous losses which would most asuredly follow without the aid of pro- per apparatus. The lesson taught by the fire at St. John's seems to bo wholly lost on the inhabitants of remote country places. When you do ' come across a hand engine it is generally in a state of mechanical bank- ruptcy — completely useless. While upon this subject, I may add that evi- dences of the great Miramichi fire of 1825, already referred to, are still to be seen along the North Shore by the dead trees which lie extended in • one direction through the burnt woods. COMMERCIAL. Chatham does not bear any evidence of the "commercial depression." The phrase seems to be unknown here. There is plenty of work to be had, and poverty, as it is understood in Montreal, is unknown. When I began to speak uf the check which our ti-ade had received, and the con- tinue'd depressed state of the industries of the country, people began to regard me as a sort of paid commissioner sent to Chatham to make out a case against the Government. Said a man to me, whose ignorance of po- litics was exceedingly amusing : — "We have no depression, sir ; Chatham is GREATLY BLESSED, Sir. Indeed it is HIGHLY FAVORED, sir. We have no politics, and, sir, I am glad to say we have no rJiticians, and that's the reason, / yuess, ivhy we haven't got any commercial depresnon, sir. No, sir, the only depression we experience in Chatham, sir, is we're getting down- hearted because we can't get men to turn out work fast cnou'ifh, sir. Yes, •sir, Chatham is the metropolis of the North Shore, and if you want to settle down here, sir, this is the place to settle in. ' Having said this, the Chatham man looked at me defiantly, and walkei off. His view of the .subject, however, is scarcely exaggerated ; the people are industrious and ■hnppy-Iooking. The staple produce is lumber. THE LUMBER TRADE Rffords employmont to at least 600 persons. There arc five mills in the town and three in the vicinity. One of these employs three gangs of men by day, cutting from 150,000 to 175,000 feet in ten hours ; also two gangs by night, cutting from 100,000 to 120,000 in the same time. In this mill alone 240 men are employed. Here the logs are taken out of the water in the tree, passed through the mill, sawn, and in one minute and a half (by checked time) the planks are placed in the vessel and ready for the foreign market. At the wharf of this mill, seven vessels, averaging 500 tons each, were being loaded as fast as possible. This fine mill^is the property of Mr, J. B. Snowball. The Hon. Wm. Muirhcad owns the oldest saw-mill 'onthe Miramiohi, originally built by Joseph Cunard, about the year 1835. > ^ > 4 43 ^;> 4 The wages of the men who are employed at or about the mills varies from $1.25 to $2.50 per day. Most of the operatives owa the houses in which they live, and not a few of them possess other property. The following TABLE OF EXPORTS FOR 1876, ENDING JUNE 30th, represents the quantity and value of this Jirge industry :— DEALS AND BOARD?. Countries. Quantity. Value. United Kingdom 88,200,000 feet. $905,393 France 1,157,000 « 11,573 Holland 782,000 « 8,590 StPierie 318,000 « 2,377 90,457,000 feet. DEAL ENDS. United Kingdom 3,720,000 feet. France. 51,000 " Holland 29,000 « 3,800,000 feet. SCANTLING. United Kingdom 2,969,000 feet. TIMBER — PINE. United Kingdom 1,853 tons. TIMBER — BIRCH. United Kingdom France 817 tons. 31 " United Kingdom . , 818 tons. PALINGS. 2,543,000 pieces. SPAUS. .Number 44 $927,933 $ 27,439 365 204 $ 28,008 9 22,552 $ 14,255 $ 5,656 155 S 5,811 S 12,163 $ 17G France During the same period the imports were valued at $114,535; con- sumption at $132,337, and the amount of duty paid to the Government, $29,565.30 THE FISHERY QUESTION ONCE MORE. There are three canning establishments within easy distance of Ciiatham, viz., at Pox Island, Miramichi Bay, and Burnt Church, on the north side, 2 4 miles distant. Large quantities are exported to England, and also packed in ic and sent by rail to Boston and New York. The oflicial returns for 1876 show the following fish exports :— Pounds. Value. Lob?fc<:r^ (canntd) United Kingdom 273,120 $21,968 Salmon,' do. do 49,698 6,801 Barrels. 4,29V Pickb^d fish, United States Barrels. 1,199 Total value $33,075 44 In addition to its lumber and lishing trade, (Jiiatham has two Rteam tanneries and two large iron foundries. An extensive trade is also carried on between here and Prince Edward Island. Oats, potatoes and other farm produce are taken in exchange for lumber and manufactured goods. In remarking upon the shipping of Chatham, it should be mentioned that two-thirds of the vessels named below were loading at the time of my visit. LIST OP VESSELS IN PORT AUGUST Gxn, 1870 Owners, Wm. Muirhead i ship tons. '. 1049 8 barques 4189 1 barquentine 395 1 briir 293 1 schooner 685 Total. 11 6511 J. B. Snowball 1 ship C81 " G barques .,..,3711 " , 2 brigs 713 " 1 barquentine 220 Total 10 George Stewart & Co 1 barque '• 1 brig , . . f ,X Total 2 5325 353 318 671 A.M. Morrison 2 barques 869 " 1 brig 220 •' 1 brigantine 229 Total • « • * ft Vessels. Wm. Muirhead 12 J. B. Snowball . „ 10 George Stewart & Co 2 A, Morrison 4 isia Tonnage, 6511 5325 ' 671 1318 13825 Total 28 All trading. Besides these there were 28 other vessels loading and unloading, viz., 12 British, 7 Norwegian, 4 German, 2 United States, 2 Russian and 1 Austrian. You will admit this is an important exhibit for a town of 4,000 persons. POINTS OP INTEREST. The country surrounding Chatham is generally level and has an agri- cultural district extending from one to nine miles out of town. Nine miles,^ i 'V i ^iV 45 south, you strike Black lliver, the settlements along which extend about five miles, and easterly thirteen miles, where the river empties into Mira- michi Bay. Good trout fishing may be had at Tubusciatic and at Burnt Church River, which empties into Miramichi Bay, below Chatham. Abun- dance of wildfowl may be shot in the spring and fall. Cariboo and moose hunting is carried on extersively in mid-winter, but shooting is not per- mitted after February Ist. They may be found in the direction of Barti- bogue river, a tributary of the Miramichi, and at Point Escuminiac, the southern entrance to the Bay. The Marine Hospital at Douglastown (a settlement between Chatham and Newcastle) is a stone edilice, and is said to be well adapted for the purpose. Douglastown was formerly known as the centre of extensive milling operations. RAILROiO) FREIGHTS are said to give general satisfaction here. Flour is brought from Toronto for f,55 per 100 barrels, and by steamer for $7.5 for the same quantity. While upon the subject of transportation, let me tell you something of the CHATHAM BRANCH RAILWAY, . which connects with the Intercolonial at Chatham Junction. The road is eight miles long, and cost $70,000. It was opened July 25th, and is not yet complete, though it connects with the day mail from Quebec, There is no doubt that it will ultiSiately prove a paying concern, and it shows that the Chatham people are fully alive to the great value which the In- tercolonial will be to them. The line passes through rich farm lands, crossing the highroads diagonally. The crops look in excellent condition and the land is well tilled. The produce is principally oats, barley, wheat potatoes and other roots. Some very line cattle and horses from imported stock are owned by well-to-do farmers. Some have recently been brought here from Prince Edward Island, and are in first-class condition. Chatham is not only well favored, abundantly blessed and evidently prosperous, but it is far ahead of any other town, for its size, in tlie Mari- time Provinces. • •; jvo. X. FROM CHATHAM JUNCTION TO MONOTON. Again I shall have to try the reader's patience by a dry recital of hard facts. The beautiful scenery ; the picturesque attractions of lake, river^ mountain and sky ; of fields of heather, of forests of pine ; of fishing, and of traditional historic interest— these attractions are left far behind, and I must again settle myself down to matters of commonplace description which, however, must not be ommitted in the geneal record of the trip. t6 I' \ THE BRIDGES OVER THE MIRAMICHI. The description of the line would not be complete without gome re ference to the superb samples of railroad engineering in connection with the bridges of the Miramichi and Restigouche. They were erected by Meesrs Clark, Reeves & Co., of Philadelphia, and are known as the Pratt Truss. The difficulties which had to be surmounted were of a nature requiring the skill of the ablest engineers. The one crossing the South-West branch was commenced in May, 1871 and opened by Sir W. O'Grady Hale/ on the 28th August, 1875, The total length is 1,244 feet, of six spans, approached by an embankment three hundred feet in length, extending beyond the river bank, thus making the total width of the river crossing nearly 1,550 feet. Before this could be built gigantic preliminary difficulties were encountered, as for instance the excavation, pumping, &c., previous to sinking the caissons thirty-five feet below tiic river's bed. Nearly seven hundred yards of excavation were required for each pier. These caissons were built of twelve inch lumber, filled with concrete, seventy-three feet long, twenty-five feet broad and thirty-five feet deep, and are simk to their entire depth in the gravelly soil. These caissons form the foundations of the jners. Upon the top of the caissons the masonry is built, covering the same plane area as the caissons On the up-stream side are cutwaters, faced Avith granite, rising twenty fee from the beginr ing of the masonry. The tops of the cutwaters have a flat surface fifteen feet square. Tluse are built to avoid the ice jams which might otherwise affect the structure. The piers contain seven hundred and forty yards of masonry and are twenty-nine feet by ten at the top. The stones used in building the piers range in courses, each stone being from two feet, six inches at the bottom, to one foot three inches at the top- The masonry is laid • ith Portland cement of the best quality. Thirteen thousand barrels were used on this and on the North-West bridge, to which reference will be made directly. Little or no vibration is felt beyond the slight rumbling sound caused by the sleepers. The abutments contain 1 200 cubic yards of masonry. Each abutment is forty feet long by twenty- nine feet extreme width. The superstructures of bridges of this kind were previously built of wood, but it was thought better to use iron in this in- stance. The truss work is eighty feet high and eighteen feet v.ivle. The design of the " Pratt Truss " somewhat resembles an inverted hopper. Its merit may be said to lie in the fact that the weight of the different por- tions of the iron-work is relieved by the arrangement of tlie cross beam& and railings, by which the strain bears equally upon each part, and the whole is reduced to a minimum. Each span is a little over one hundred tons in weight. The bridge is painted white, not only to give it a light appearance, but for the easier detection of rust. The North-West bridge differs only from the former in regard to the foundation. This bridge was begun in 1872 and completed in September^ 1875. The caissons in this instance are "open." They are sunk to the ^ V 4 '. i '♦ bed of the river and surrounded by sheet piling, driven f.ist to the gravei. bed at au average distance of fifty feet below high water. The caissonK are sixty feet long and thirty feet wide. The cutwaters have no tables ae in the South-west bridge. The top of the masonry above the highest spring tides is about twenty-five feet. The cost of these bridges is esti- mated at one million dollars I The gentlemen who assisted to construct ther,e monuments of scientific- triumph — for they may well b« regarded as such — are Mr. Peter Grant, C. E., who designed the plans ; Mr. A. S. Brown, of Messrs. Brown & Co., of Belleville, Ont., who personally supervised the construction ; Mr. W. B. Smellie, Superintending Engineer, and Mr. W.W.Lec, Managing Mechani.- cal Engineer. The description which 1 have attempted fulls far short of the true im- pression of admiration which thes'; mammoth structures are calculated tc^ inspire those who are familiar with all the details of engineering science. But I had , _ , , A NARROW ESCAPE from a fearful infliction of enthusiasm on the part of a tourist whose idea*, of poetry and science were very much mixed. The young gentleman find- ing that I was connected with the Fourth Estate, improvised an elegant tribute to "Science in the foie' t lonely," in which he, with the very best intentions in the world, intended to convey a delicate compliment to the enterprise of the Gazette in furnishing the public with an account of "A Trip over the Intercolonial." He button-holed me with three samples of machine poetry, which, measured by the foot, would have occupied about a column of your journal. His fac ility for rhyming was extraordinary ; his love of the beautiful was in proj ortion to his rhyme ; but his cpmpo- sition lacked two important feature: — brevity and common sense. Hie- indulgence in poetic license positively amounted to literary libertinism. With a pleading and almost a fearful face, he begged my acceptance of what he considered to be the best of his compositions. I give you two. verses, because I should not like to discourage native talent even in its. most crude form. This is what he has handed down to posterity :— "THE POET'S TRIBUTE TO SCIENCE." ' "Ye bridges who span Miramichi's fairest waters, With iron-girt bands in this wild forest, lone ; ' "" ' A tribute of science to our sons and our daughters, , . Where :kill hath erected a home of its own. The forest trees murmur in deep tribulation ; The beaver and moose retreat PS in fear, While the Iron King's shriek brings news that a nation Has conquered the forest, the river, and deer. What a good thing it is for editors xLui, men of genius like this sometimes take a holiday. There are yet eight railway stations to be disposed of before Moncton is- reached. > Chatham Junction is 123 feet above sea level. The station is 302 milcR from Riviere du Loup. Four miles from it is Barnaby River station, at aii 4F ■elevation of but forty-nine feet. A q lartcr mile east of it and over tbo first crossing of Barnaby River is a lattice girder bridge 100 feet long. Ttic land retains the same uuintereating appearance as noted in my laat letter. Four miles east of Barnaby River station and over the second crossing of the river i.s another bridge with a single span of eighty feet. The soil is about si.x foai deep, when you find freestone rock of good ■<|uality and of which the masonry is composed. The next station is Forest, 29* feet above sea level. Nine milep further you reach Ferris station, 257 feet above the sea. One mile east of Ferrio a bridge ••■••ith a single span of eighty feet crosses the Kouchibouguacis River. The ]and here is only remarkable for its almost utter worthlessnesa. This por- tion of tlie line is on Section 21. beginning one mile west of the river, and extending one and three-(iuarter miles east of the Miramichi. The section •contains 140,000 cubic yards of rock cutting, 7,000 yards of earth and 8,000 yards of masonry. A culvert fifteen fee*^^ long spans the fifth cross- ing of the Barnaby River. One mile beyond the fourth crossing the river flows through a tunnel twenty feet square, cut through solid sandstone for a distance of 110 feet. The gap is filled up with an embankment. The course of the River Kouchibouguacis by means of a segmental arch thirty feet long. This arch is cut through an embankment of 150,000 cubic yards of earth. It is 1,,")00 feet long and sixty feet high. Eleven miles distant from Truro is Welford Station, at an elevation of 193 feet above the sea. Two mib west of heie a single span bridge eighty feet long crosses the Richibucl . River. From its central situation, it is thought that Weldford will be an important station. Coal Branch Station, nine miles east, is 203 feet above sea level. A bridge of thiee spans, each forty feet long crosses the ■ ; > " ' COAL BRANCH RIVER. • ' - Each bridge is forty-two feet above the river. On the east side of the sta- tion is another of three spans of forty feet each. The river is a tributary of the Richibucto, and small quantities of coal are found along its stream. Five miles cast of Coal Branch River, a bridge of thirty spans crosses the Buctouche River. The next station, nine miles distant, is Canaan, 156 feet above the sea It is crossed by a ten foot arched culvert The country is boggy and great difficulty was experienced in poling and brushing the road through which the line passes. Four miles east of Canaan River is a bridge of a single span of twenty-four feet. Five miles east of the station is a second bridge ■over the South Cocaignc River of a single span of twenty-four feet. This is the last bridge along the line before reaching Moncton. On following page you will find m LIST w AM, THK BRIDGES hktwkkn RIVIERE UU LOUP and MONCTON. '■"I ^ ► Miles- I7i 27 47^ 55 «6J 88 ^ 105 112 J 114 124 128^ 136 , 141 146 1 60 ; 1G4 176 183 lyo 203 . 209 214^ 220 '- 221 . 222 .. .227 ■ 238 ' 243 249 1^ 254 ,; 255 ., 257 -' 260 ¥ 279 ; 299 %. 299^ 306| , 310 ; 314 327 335 346 351 .359 363 Riviere dii Loup J mile west of Isle Verte Trois Pistoles \ mile east of St. Fabian Station, over Grand Bic lliver. . Bic Station, over Little Bic River J mile west of Rimonski Station, over Rimouski River.. . . 4 miles east of St. Flavie, over Metis River 2 miles east of Tartague, over Tarlague River \ mile west of Sayabec, over Sayabec River 1 mile east of Sayabec, over St Pierre River 4 miles east of Cedar Hall Station, over Tobago River . . . \ mile east of Amqui Station, over Amqui River 2 miles east of Amqui Station, over Indian Brook At Causaposcal Station, over Metapedia River 5 miles cast of CausaposcftI, over Metapedia River 4 miles east of Assametquaghan, over McKinnon's Brook. 2 miles west of Mill Stream Station, over Metapedia River At Metapedia Station, over Restigoucha River 7 mileseastof Metapedia Station, over Christopher's Brook 1 mile east of Campbellton Station, over Mill Creek 5 miles east of Dalhousie StnHon, over Eel River 1 mile east of Charlo Statior or north branch of Charlo R Within 300 feet of south biuuch of Charlo River J mile east of New Mills, over Benjamin River 6 miles east of New Mills, over Nash's Creek 7 miles east of New Mills, over Louison's Hrook 1 mile west of Jacquet River, and crossing it 4 miles east of Jacquet River, crossing BoUedune River. . 2 miles east of Petit Roche, over Elm Tree River 3 miles east of Petit Roche, over Nigados River 3 miles west of Bathurst, Tete-a-Qauche 2 miles east of Bathurst Station, over Middle River 3 miles east of Bathurst, over Little River 5 miles east of Bathurst, crossing Nipisiguit River 5 miles west of Red Pine Station, over Red Pine Brook . . 4 miles east of Bartibogue Station, over Bartibogue River 3 miles east of Miramichi, over North West Branch i mile from the above, and over the South "West Branch. I mile eastof Barnaby Sta'n,over first crossing of BarnabyR 4 miles " " " second " " 8 miles east of Barnaby Station, over the third crossing ol Barnaby River 1 mile east of Ferris Station, near Rouchibouguacis River. 2 miles west of Weldford, over Richibucto River At Coal Branch Station, over the North Coal Brook Over S. Branch of the Coal Branch on east side of station. 5 miles east of Coal Branch, near the Burtouche River. . . 4 miles east of Canaan, over North Cocaigce River 3 miles west of Berrj''8 Mills, over North River Total length, feet 300 160 50O 110 24(» 400 50 24 80 30 100 150 300 300 180 40<» 1000 420 180 100 150 100 120 80 60 300 80 80 SO 500 160 60 GOO 120 80 1200 1200 100 80 80 80 80 120 120 30 24 50 10838 w f i 50 I The amount of money which these fo"ty-eight bridges cost, I have not been able to ascertain. It is probable tliat even the Hon. the Minister of Public Worlis has not yet completed his returns concerning them. It should be mentioned that all those bridges over fifty foet span are the lattice girder. Those within that length are of the ordinary plate girder construction. Tlie difference is this : tlie former rest upon expansion rol- lers to allow for construction and expansion, but no such provision is con- sidered necessary for the plate girder bridge. There are only two wooden bridges along the line and these are at Riviere du Loup and Trois Pistoles. A contractor informed me that 75,000 yards of track between Campbelton and Moncton have yet to be ballasted before the road can be said to be thoroughly completed in this particular. Berry's Mills is the next station which you pass ; it is 208 feet above sea level. Between here and Jloncton tlie track is almost a straight line, and continues for thirty-one miles from the former station. None of the carves are greater than 2® 30"' with the exception of a 4® 30" curve just before you reach Moncton, Some ofthejji even vary from .^ ® to 1 ® 30", Tlie grade is exceedingly smooth, and standing on the platform of the last car, the train going at a speed of forty miles per hour, the beauty of the line is exceedingly pleasing to the eye. As I nnot tell you much about the scenery between Miramichi and Moncton (because I defy the greatest lover of nature to get up un enthu- siasm about it), perhaps I maybe able to tell you something about the way in which the country has been "cut up" along the line. The first section from Moncton is ..^3. It terminates at a short distance west of Buctotiche. The amount of masonry is 3,980 yards of the first class, and ] ,630 of the Sv "ond class. There are 31,000 cubic yards of rock cutting and 021 cubic yai 's of earth. A short distance east of Berry's Mills, at Jonathan Creek, is ao embankment containing 150,000 cubic yards of earth. Near Berrj's Mills, and east of the track, is the Lutz Mountain settlement, containing a population of 300. On the west is Sttives Mountain settlement, whose inhabitants chiefly grow potatoes, hay, oats and buckwheat. There is also a fair sprin.vling of good lumber in the vicinity. West of here the trade curves around the point of Indian Mountain by a half degree curve 1^ miles in radius. Nine miles from Berry's Station you reach Moncton, being a distance of 374 miles from Riviere du Loup. • 4 . ]Vo. 3LI, '•'^^H'P^: '^'i.t'il'Xi' ,v»,tj, - - MONOTOF. This is the eastern terminus of tiic Northern Division of the Inter- colonial. The station is about 42 feet above sea level. Before going into- a description of the general offices, car shops, etc , of the Hue it would be- well perhaps to say something of the town itseli'. I 4u ■';;_;: \7;v-:' 7^'- ■■■' the TOWJT ;"■"'""■' '1: contains a population of about 4,000, and is built on tho bend of tbo Peti- codiac. This river is remarkable for the rapidity with which the tide ebbs and flows. As the tide rushes along it forms a "bore" or wall of water, making a breastwork, as it were, across the channel. The sight of this immense body of water has indi:ced persons fvoui long distances to visit the singular phenomenon. This " wall " commences at Stony Creek, seven miles distant, and travels at tlie rate of seven miles per hour with the flood tide. The streets of Moncton are well laid out, although tho houses are some- what scattered. The town contains seven churches. There are two factories in Moncton ; the first, an iron foundry, owned by Mr. C. B. Record, covers two and a half acres of ground and gives employment to thirty-five men. The factory appears to be thoroughly well fitted in its various departments, which includo the moulding shop, tho fitting shop, blacksmiths', pattern and machine shops, in addition to a separate depart- ment for the manufacture of plouglis, whicb have gained some celebrity throughout the Province. The otiier establishment is a soap factory, owned by Mr. Torrle. Moncton is well provided with SCHOOLS. '^)nc large building contains seven scliools, and three other edifices are in course of construction. Tlie whole, when finished will cost about $20,000, exclusive of an annual expense vo the people of the town of $3000 apart from county and Government aid. From its central position Moncton is bound to come into prominence. Already two bank branches are doing a fair business. The one is the bank of Montreal, the other tho Bank of British North America. There i? good whar.age here, and .vould make a capitol place for ship- building and lumber business, both of Avliich industries have fallen oft' of late. The question of building a dry dock at Moncton has been revived from time to time ; but it is questionable whether it will be put into prac- tical shape for some timet to come. Whether it would benefit the town or not yet remains an open question. THE SURHOUNDING COJNTRY is devoted lo farming. The crops are well forward. Crossiusj tlie river Peticodiac is a wooden bridge 1,700 feet long, which roj*s $8';,000. This bridge connects with the county of Albert, which has a popuiuuo'i of 10,000. The county is rich ! - Us mineral resources, and is the seat of the celebra- ted Albert Mine, which has gained a reputation for the bituminous ciuality of its coal. A branch railway has been built fi'om Salisbury, fifteen miles aliove Moncton, to Hopew(!irs Corner, forty miles long. Twenty miles from here is Dorchester, the shire town of the county Bi 52 (Westmoreland), where the new Penitentiary for the Maritime Provinces is about to be built. Tliis edifice, it is said, will cost §500,000, but this would appear to be an exaggerated estimate. Moncton, which was only incorporated last year, is governed by a town council of six members, who elect their own chairman. Two men consti- tute the police force, llobberies occasionally occur, and, for a place of its ^izc, two men are not enough. There is also a fire company, and an cxellentnew engine, purchased last year. A weekly paper, the Moncton Tvnes, is published in the Conservative interest. THE WORKING FORCE OF THE LINE FROM RIVIERE DU LOUP TO HALIFAX. From figures which have been furnished me here I have compiled the following approximate table of weekly expenditure for wages alone. As I could not get full particulars, on account of the absence of some of the officials, the following statement must be taken as far below the actual cost of working the road, for it will be observed that it does not include the salaries of the highest officer,s. It is merely given to enable the reader to form an approximate idea of the cost for labor only : — 1 * "'* Number of Employes.! 700 670 900 400 340 56 3,066 Nati'ke ok Duty. Average Daily Wages. $ c. Shopmen. i Engineers. | This number includes other employes in locomotive and car shops. The rate of wages of these men is from $1.30 to S2.20. Placing' it an average of $1.75 per day, it would repre-t sent for 1 ,370 men a daily expenditure amount-^ ing to ' 2,,397 50 Trackmen at $1.10 per day 990.00 Station men whose average wages are $500 per year, or per week $9.62. This for 400 men would give Trainmen, including conduct'^rs, at $2.21 per day, and brakesmen at $1.3.') per day Say 75 conductors at $2.21 per day Say 265 brakesmen at $1.35 per day Officers and clerks. Say 16 officers at an average salary of $1,000 j>er year ; or per week, each, $19.23 ; or for tne 16 a tctal of Say 40 clerks at an average of $600 per year ; or per week, each, of $11.53, representing, for the 40 ! Employes represent a total weekly cxpeudi- I lure of Average Weekly Wages. $ c. 165.75 357.75' 14,385.00 5,940.00 3,848.00 994.50 2,146.50 307.68 461.20 28,082.88 ' 6^ 1 * ' RECEIPTS FROM THE ROAD. I wag much disappointed at not being ablo to get a copy of the Returns of the Trafhc Receipts since tiie opening of the line, which I was informed had not yet been made public, 'i'he only information I could get on this point was that the receipts from trafiic since July 1st had been, in round figures, about §100,000 per month. That the bulk of tho traffic wa.« between Campbellton and St. John, of which fully .seventy per cent, was between St. John and Moncton. TIIE WORKSHOPS. The shops, thnuirh large and roomy, are certainly not elaborate. There is nothing superfluous or costly about them. Ckanlin'.ss and discipline were very noticeable. There arc aboui four hundred men engaged here in the various departments. The shops include the machine, erecting, black- smiths', boiler, tinsmiths', carpenter, paint and pattern-maker's shops, be- side the brass foundry. The machine and blacksmiths' shop alone cover an aero of ground. An excellent provision is made in case of fire by means of Knowles' steam pump, made in Boston, whicli has a capacity of thro>ving 1,000 gallf)ns per minute. There are three car shops, the first is two hundred and seventy-six by seventy-six feet, the second three hundred by forty-five feet, and the third one hundred and seventy-five by forty feet. At the time of my visit there were two hundred freight cars in course of construction besides twenty others, inchuling passenger, express, smoking and conductors' cars. There is a peculiarity in connection with the latter which should be mentioned. There are twelve built, thirty feet long, and ten feet wide, with a " bulge " or bow window in the side extending from the body of the car, by which means the conductor-; can have an uninter- rupted view of the whole train before and behind. It w 's originally sug- gested to place an elevated seat for this pumogp above the roof of the car, (as is the case in some of the cars in t ''nited States) but for some reason or another this idea was abandoned. t li. ve the incsent plan is designed by ;);. Robt. Luttrell. The workshops hk' su^ -tantially built of brick, aii.l to describe properly would take at least two columns of yoiir journal. It took me an hour and a half to go through the v.uious mechu;.- ical departments, only casually noting the various objects of interest. Anv description I would give you would be necessarily dry and perhap- iiniu- teresting to the general reader. THE GENERAL OFFICES ^ • are in a largo, liandsome brick building, and aro. elaborately fitte4: THl. STATION is an oxoeodingly liandsorae building, to which is iittaclied a dining .saloon said to 1)0 the finest in the Dominion. In the station is the General Pass- eugei- Agent's otfice and Baggage Master's Department. This letter eonclndes the full description of the Northern* Division of the Intercolonial Ilailway, in ..le completion of which your correspondent is much indebted to the oflicers, employees and private individuals along the line, who have invariably given him every reasonable information they have been iiblo to impart. ST. JOM, N. B. St> fur as the construction of the Intercolonial Ilailway is concerned, there is little, if anything, to add to what has already been mentioned To those who may not be familiar with the ofticial divisions of the line it may be said that St. John is one of the termini of the Western Division, of which Amherst, X. S., is the eastern terminu.^. The distance from Mbnc- ton is eighty-nine miles, and from Riviere du Loup it is four hundred and sixty-three miles. The country between Auiherst and St. John is agricul- tural : passing the stations of Sackville, Dorchester, Moncton, Sa'isbury, Sussex, Hampton, and Itothesay, in addition to smaller villages, which it is not ueccs.sary to describe here. " This division is not a now one, nnd it would be impossible in the gen- eral features of these letters to observe the same completeness of detail which has hitherto been followed out. And for a good reason ; the mon- otony of description would soon weary the reader. However, the more noteworthy places between St. John and Jloncton will be dealt with in anotlicr form. "With regard to St. John, there is so much to be ,sai..-.« PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS. First in point of beauty is the city Post Office on Prince William street,. . erected at a cost of $200,000. Its dimensions are ninety and fifty feet, built of stone. The style of architecture is modern. The front is really superb, fully equal to any building of the size in Montreal. Each side of^,. and over the entrance are si.xteen red, i)olished. Bay of Fundy granite columns, the beauty of which excites general admiration. The roof L* » mansard, surmounted by a graceful tower, from which an exquisite view ©f many miles can be had. This fine office has every facility for tlic prompt assortment and delivery of the mails. ,^ ■, Next comes the V'S^j, . . ; t ^ ■ , ■, NEW CITY MARKET. This fine brick structure occupies a block nearly four hundred feet Icmg: and eighty feet wide. Its western end faces Germain street, and the eastern, Charlotte. There are two streets running parallel with and at each side of the building. This handsome structure cost $^1.'5'),000, and it is mainly due to the energy of the popular Mayor, Chipman Smith, Esq., that the building was erected. It would pay the City Council of Montreal to send a commissioner here to take a few lessons in the art of building a market. The fioor is of asphalt, at a grade of fifteen feet. It has 1 ,500 feet of stand accommodation. Every stall is thoroughly and neatJy fitted with.i f* 58 good collarage and ample water supply. The money was raised iu deben- tures, which have forty years to run. It is expected that after paying the interest on these debentures there will be a surplus left to retire them, so that, eventually, tlie city will have a market of its own, free of debt, and from which at least $U),000 per year will be realized. In tlie western end of the building is a hall eighty by fifty feet, surround- ed by a gallery twelve feet wide, the height of the ceiling being twenty- four feet. This hall is adminibly suited for a FREE PUBLIC LIBIUKY, ' • ■., ; and I understand the City Council has. at the rc(iuest of many influential citizens, expressed its willingnes to hand it over for that purpose. The immense sulvantage which tliis would be to the public is apparent. St. John, a city of so much importance to the Maritime Provinces. Avill doubt- less secure this loug-felt want at an early day. I might tell you, if I had time, of the fine lioman Catholic Cathedral on Waterloo street, built of stone, and as perfect a specimen of Gothic architecture as any I have seen. Or I might dilate on the Wiggins' Male Orphan Asylum, another handsome red biick eilifice, four stories high. This is on Brittain street, and was erected at the private cost of the late Stephen AViggins, Esq., merchant and shipowner. Then I could ask you to accompany me to the Maritime Bank, about which so much has been said of late ; an elegant stone build- ing on tlie south-east corner of Market square. From there yuu can take the ferry at Water street,'cross over to Carleton and view the Albert School building. We have no public school building to surpass it Montreal ; in fact it is the redeeming feature of (,'arleton. Whihi here, it would be well to take a look at the suspension bridge, crossing the Falls of the St. John lliver. It well repays a visit. This elegant bridge, six hundred and four feet long, is one hundred feet above low water. It was built and projected by W. K. Picynolds, Esq., of Lepreaux, and cost S80,000. It was finished in 1853, and on the 1st of July, 1874, the Provincial Government bought it and made it a free highway. Suppose we cross it ; take a glance ■• up and down the river, inhale for a moment the fresh sea breeze coming from the south, and look in for a moment on Dr. Sleev<'S, the phy.sician of the Provincial Lunatic Asylum. He will tell you that the fine red brick institution, with the extensive farm, gardens, and shrubberies, is not large enough to accommodate the number nf un- fortunate creatures who seek a home within its walls. Its ample corridors, neat rooms, and generally clean appearance, do not, however, relieve you of the feeling of sadness which creeps over you at the sight of such men- tal prostration. Suppose, then, we leave it, not forgetting to contribute ■our mite towards alleviating the wants of these jioor people. L( t us re- traice our steps, wend our way to Carleton, and take the ferry to St. John. Half an hour will bring us to where we started, and if you feel tired we will take a carriage by the hour and "do" the remaining buildings of A 59 note. After glancing at the gmnite-faced Custom llousi', a substantial building some 300 foet long, facing on Prince William street, it would not be a bad idea to drive to the Victoria Hotel, at the corner of Duke and trernuiin streets, and partake of a glass of claret with mine host Swett. He will take you over one of the finest hotels in the Dominion, which oc- cupies over 100 feet square. The hall alone is 40 x 20 feet, and tlie vesti- bule 20 X 15 feet, the floors of wliich are inlaid with marble. The dining rooms. ('){) X 25 feet, compels your admiration,by its elaborate magnificence. But what sliall we say of the ladies' parlor, 100 feet long, by twenty feet wide ? — fitted with all modern acquisitions of hotel luxury. The sleeping apartments include 232 rooms, irrespective of private suites of chambers for the creme de la cremc of society. You will be astonished when Mr. Swctt tells you that this hotel requires the services of 200 employes dur- ing the summer season. Refreshed by our claret we next drive to Trinity Church, built on a rising eminence, and full of historic interest in connec- tion with the growth of the citj' of St. John. The history dates back to 1797. That liuilding on the otlier side of the street, a little to the south of where we are standing, is the scene of Manager E.A. McDowell's many triumphs. It is the Academy of Music, not so large, certainly, but quite as attractive as the Academy of Music at home. Perhaps the decorations of the former are a trifle too elaborate ; but its acoustic (jualities are ex- cellent. Now let us proceed to the Mohanics' Institute, a plain, unpre- tentious looking building on Carleton street, which has a history of its own worthy of tlie progress of this singular city. Of late years, the Mechanics' Institute has been a misnomer. You never see any mechanics there, and, so far as I know, I have' never heard of its being patronized by artisans generally, except when the upper hall is let for popular entertainments. Suppose we jump in our vehicle once more and drive to the Young Men's Chri.stian Association building on Charlotte street, a very neat edifice, op- posite the market house. The vooms are comfortable and well furnished, and are amply i>rovided with all that is attractive to young men. But it is a query to my mind whether the Association is not somcAvliat of a fail- ure from a socialistic standpoint. I have been there tiiree times lately, and on any occasion 1 have never seen above half a dozen persons there. k \ The supply of papers and magazines is not so large as might be wished. The liall, however, is very convenient and roomy, and is usually crowded when free meetings are held. Now let as drive to St. Paul's Church, Port- land, wliicli is undoubtedly, next to the Cathedral and Trinity Church, the prettiest and most tasteful cluuch in the vicinity of St. John. It has a good choir, and an excellent organ, and the general etfect of the building on a fine summer afternoon, when the sun is shining tlirough the stained glass windows, is exceedingly handsome and impressive. Heturning, sup- pose we take the Winter-street School-house, Portland, and glance at the excellent arrangements which are here provided for the instruction of the , . . , . _ „ Blue-noses " of the future. That they are good is but faint praise — they arc more than good; they are complete in every particular. GoodnesG is ou only comparative, .tut the educational facilities which St. Joiin and Port- land possess are superlative in their degree. The Victoria School-house, it handsome, new four-storey brick luilding, has accommodation for 1,000 children. It stands on the corner of Duke and Sydney streets, and is. almost palatial in its proportions, Boston has nothing to equal it for similar purposes. Now, let us pay the Jehu, and take dinner. What ! two dollars for one. hour's drive? Well, of course, we can't see the elephant for nothing, .so we'll give you one and call it square. ■ MUNICIPAL. ' • ' St. John has an excellent fire department, poorly paid, and an inferior police force, which is paid quite as much as it is wortii. The former deserves all that can be said about it in the way of praise. The men are quick and reliable, and their fire apparatus is in keepl'ig with the excellent i]Ualities of the firemen. The police department is mixed. Its Chief is a hard-working official, who has on several occasions demonstrated that his special forle is his aptness for striking a " clue." During the past ytar he has had ample opportunities for the exercise of this important faculty ; but, unfortunately, his suoordinates lack the same perceptive power in following them up. Probably the St. John police force does not contain three men who may be termed professional policemen. They are poorly uniformed and disci- plined, and have not arrived at that state of perfection you would expect to rind in a city of so much importance. Seriously speaking, the St. John police force is fifty years behind the age. Every criminal here whose offence is aliove the grade of an ordinary " 'Irunk " comes from Halifax — at least the papers say so, and, naturally, tht case in Halifax is vice versa. But, unfortunately, recent experience has proved this rule does not always apply. Honii^ criminals are occasionally discovered in their guilt, and accordingly punished. I'or such there is excellent accommodation in the city gaol, and not quite so good provision in the Provincial Penitentiary — a building respecting Wi.ich the least said the better. . :■ . ii- ," RAILROAD COMMUNICATION AND THE DEEP WATER ,, TERMINUS. ' v/:!..:^.;.:>-.,VA/-,.V, St. John in a short time will be excellently provided tor in this respect. The recent purchase by the Government of the Ballast wharf property at a cost of S40,000, for the purpo.'^e of a deep water terminus, has given general satisfaction. The intention is to run a short branch line from the Intercolonial at Marsh Bridge. This line is partially completed. The road will skirt Courtenay Bay, which extends from the Maish Bridge, on the north-east side of the city, hugging the shore, and curving towards the south-west, and touching at Ballast wharf. The corditiohs imder which the sale has been effected are that the Government v. ill build the terminus. V -4 i 'ii. Gl for the receipt of grain and other sliipments from all points of Canada ; the city eiraplj'- reserving the riglit of way for street purposes. The moving spirit in this purchase is siid to be Mr. Bois de Veber, M P. The benefit is of course apparent, and there is no doubt that the worli. 'vill be speedily pushed through. By means of the Consolidated European and North American Railway from Bangor, St. John is reached. The Grand Southern, now under construction, will be seventy-five miles long, and extend from St. Stephen. N. B., to Fairville, three miles from St. John. In all probability, the line will extend to the ciiy. I was almost forgetting to say something about THE WATER AND GAS WORKS, which are really a credit to the city, considering the miles of lojk exca- vation which had to be blasted. These difhculties cannot be understood by those who have not visited St. John, and it is one of the crowning triumphs to the energy of the St. John peoplo to say that in a short time every street in the city will be well supplied with water and gas. The Corporation deserves all the credit that can be given it in this particular. JOURNALISTIC. This letter would not be complete without some reference to the Fourth estate. St. John ha.s five political i)aper8— three dailies, one tri-weekly and one weekly. The Daihj Telegiaiih, ostensibly a reform paper, is known throughout the Dominion for its enterprise and vigor. I hope I may be pardoned for intruding upon the " impersonality of journalism," as Mr. (Joldwin Smith has it, in crediting those gentlemen connected with the press for their energy in making their journals what they have. W. Elder, Esq., M.P.P., editor and proprietor of the Telegraph, spares no expense in making his journal in every way worthy of its high reputation as a news- ]>aper. He is an accomplished scholar and polished writer; a far-seeing |)olitician, with an eye to the present and future requirements of the age. 1 n making the Telegraph what it is, he has been ably assisted by Mr. James JIannay, sub-editor, a gentleman who has worked for, and knows more of the history and resources of New Brunswick than any one whom I have met. He has the history of St. John at his fingers' ends. He is not only a clever writer of great research, but also a poet of more than average Ability. At present he has in the press a volume upon the "History of Acadia " of some five hundred pages. Mr. Hannay's services deserve recognition, and it is to him the St. John people are indebted for the vig- rous fight the Telegraph made in defence of the Baie Verte Canal scheme The Evening Globe is another spicy paper, partly owned by Mr. J. V. Ellis, recently appointed Postmaster here. The Globe is a reliable paper and you always know what it means, and it is credited with meaning just what it says. In popular parlance, you alMys know where to find it. The News, h ... ^m^ the avowed oigan of tliland known as the Gilr'^ore or Ash lot is a perfect seam of ledges of a good color, with valleys between the ledges covered witu a thick growth ■of fir and pine, with some small bitch. On the east side of the road there are a series of quarry faces of mid- 'dling, good, and very good red granitf>; about two chains from the road aaad handy thereto. The stone here is in fine, large masses, most of it of very good quality. 'le ledges run north and south nearly, but seem to radiate fiom a com- yiLon centre, somewhere about the Gilmore or Ash lot, where they appear to concentrate. It is utterly impossible to estimate the quantity of tir.st-rate merchunt- able red granite contained within the limits of the Company's land. It is stxQ;p1y inexhaustible. There are hundreds of ledges, the outcrops of which i-ei>rescnt from 5, 000 tons to 100,000 tons each, while as to Gray'. s Mouirtain, which I et-timnte at TOO feet above the lake, being half a mile long and n quarter mile broatl, and in Granite Mountain, estimated at GOO feet atove the lake, one mile long and three-eighths of a miie wide. The granite on the land ceded to the Company is said to be perfectly free from those spots and veins which occasionally disfigure the Peterhead (Scotch) gratiite, a,nd that, generally speaking, the ledges appear to be perfectly homogeneous or to lie in large rectangular slabs and blocks, generally inclined at »n angle of about 30 * from the north towards the horizon. In only three instrnces, when making experimental blasts, (of which ntarly one hundred have been put in), has seamy stone been met with. Large deposits of good (juartz .sand, for grading purposes, extend along ■the beaches around the lake. THE DISCOVERY OF THE GRANITE was accidental. In the summer of 1872 Mr. C. Ward, Canadian artist of the illustrated London Nrw,", at present Secretary for the Company, was t. John forty miles shorter than at present. J. N. Green*^, Esq., of New York, is the contractor, and when I tell you some twenty miles of road have been graded in two months, you will have some idea of its rapidity of construc- tion. The maximum grade is seventy-nine feet per mile. The sharpest curvature is a 717 feet radius. The road bed stems to be built in a solid, substantial manner. There are no wooden structures, the culverts being all of granite. The principal difficulties will be the bridging of the Digde- wash and Magaguadavic, also at Popologan, Little Big, New Rivers and Musquash. The latter will be a draw bridge. It will probably be com- pleted next fall. The advantages are that the Grand Southern will mater- ially shorten the route to Prince Edward Island, Halifax, St. John and Bangor. Tbe nature of the soil through which the line passes is loam and gravel, with a small portion of clay. I drove over about nine miles of it and so far as I could judge the work was well done. Next in importance are THE ALBERT MINES near Dorchester, These were also discovered by accident in 1850. Some consider it a variety of jet, others think it a coal, whi'e some suppose it to be asphaltum. The vein has a thickness of from one inch to seventeen feet, and it has been excavated to a depth of 1 ,162 feet. Since its first dis- covery the following shipments iiave been made : — ■ . > ih ^;,■♦ (. .« , 07 h 1863,.... - 18,600 tons. 1864 19,300 186) 20,500 1866 20,500 1867 17,000 1868 12,400 1869 1 7,000 1870 6,000 1871 5,500 1872 5,000 1873 , 0,000 1874 7,000 ■ Total 154,800 tons. The Government royalty since Jan. 1st, 1866, amounts to$8/)29.29 The albcrtite has been and is extensively used in the manufactuie of oil and for mixing with other coals in the preparation of gas. It will yield 100 gallons of crude oil or 14,500 cul)ic foet of gas per ton, leaving, when used with other coal, a valuable quality of coke. It has been sold for from $15 to $20 per ton. The mines give employment to about 100 men. In the vicinity of Dorchester, at Budreau village, are several FREESTONE QUARRIES. The most important is owned by the Caledonia Freestone Company. This excellent stone lor buildins; purposes was first quarried in 1856 from the Budreau property, since which time the annual shipments have averaged from 5,000 to 7,000 tons. The Caledonia quarries were opened in 1864. The company ships anuuhily between 5,000 and 6,000 tons. There is also another (piany at Mary's Point, Hopewell, and a third at Shepody Mount, Albert County. These stones are remarkable for their color, durability, and the ease with which they may be cut. They are almost free from pyrites. The beds now being worked vary from two to six feet in thickness. Blocks thirty feet long, weighing thirty tons, can readily be obtained. In the same county, at Hillsboro, a tew miles from Dorchester, you strike the GYPSUM DEPOSITS of the Albert Manufacturing Company. This mineral is distributed in irregular masses with sandstone, marls and limestone. The richness of the gypsum deposits is without limit. A portion of the rock now being worked, from ninety to one hundred feet, contains a thicknesf of seventy feet of pure gypsum, resting on beds of plaster of unknown depth. In its neighborliood are large masses of snow-white alabaster, exceedingly beauti- ful. There are extensive works erected here for grinding and calcination, which have been in almost continuous operation since 1861. An average of 600 barrels per day can be worked up, giving ejiployment to about 100 hands. 'j^ ^■"■' "'•■ ■ ■■ ' ''■ '"-''": ' ' - 68 The following statement for 1875 will give you au idea of the scale ■which this industry has achieved at Hillsboro : — Plaster quarried, in tons 129,000 Do. shipped in rock, in tons 5,500 Do. ground and calcined, in bmrels 47,200 Do. do. for farming 800 The present price of the crude and ground plaster is G'lv. per barrel, ,Iuty free ; Cidcined, $1. This, however; is subject to a tluty in the United ■States of twenty per cent. Gypsum is also found in birge quantities at Petitcodiac (delivered at the station of the Intercolonial Kailway for 70c. per barrel, or 40c. in bulk) and ut Tobitjue River, Victoria County. 1'hc railway will doubtless developc the tacilities for manufacturing and shipping this valuable mineral. As Jt would be impossible to do justice to the natural resources of New Brunswick in less than a month, I have condensed the remaining portion of the subject matter of my letter from a handy little pamphlet entitled ''The Woods and Minerals of New Brunswick," written by Prof. L. W. Bailey, of New Brunswick University, and Edward Jack, Esq , C.E., Sur- veyor of Crown Lands. (The collection of woods sent to the Centennial Exhibition from this Province contains over seventy distinct specimens, which are too numerous to oven mention casually in a single letter.) IltON. The reader may have n iced that the arrangement of the minerals in this letter is irregular. The fact is unavoidable, for the reason that those previously noted are within easy distance of each other and are directly connected with the Intercolonial Railway for shipment. The railway would be of little use did it not aft'ect more or less the growth of the mineral wealth of the Province, and it is in order to make it more readily known that I have now referred to it in this concluding letter upon New Brunswick. Bog iron ore, or liminite, is found in Burton, Sunbury County, and in the parish of Maryland, in York County. Queen's County also contains it to some extent. It extends over considerable areas, and has attained in some instances a thickness of four or five feet, but no attempt has yet been made to smelt these ores. A recent analysis of a specimen from Sunbury County gave forty-seven per cent, of metal. RED HEMATITE is found at Jacksontown, near Woodstock, two miles from the west bank of the St. John River, Carleton County. The ore was first discovered by a geological surveying party from Maine, in 1836, under Dr. Chas. T. Jack- son, who traced it from the Aristook region north-eastward to the St. John River, and to the eastward of the latter, in bands extending fifteen or G9 4 > twenty mllos in length, over tlie north and north-eastern portions of tlie^ county of Carleton. Tlio width of the ore beds is from six inches to eight feet, the average tliickncss being tliree and a half feet. Forty thousand tons have Leon smelted at the Woodstock works while in operation, and the nutal is remarka'ole for its admirable adaptation to the manufacture ot steel. It also contains a large percentage of manganese. COrPEU. This valuable mineral is found at Salmon River, Albert County ; Adams Island, Charlotte County, and at Grand Manan Island. It is mostly found in connection with a band of rocks extending along the southern coa.st of the Province. These ores have not been worked, although several attemjyts have been ma-.Ie. This is owing to the fact that they have not yet been ascertained to be sufficiently concentrated to pay the cost of extraction. A specimen from Salmon Piiver is said to have yieldal sixty- two per cent, of copper. At La TiHe there is a large tract of copper. A shaft is being sunk to ft depth of 25 feet, on a lode about four thick. Another sImIC is beiug sunk two hundred feet from the former where good indications have been found. The cost of labour being low, these mines, it is thought, would be hightly remunerative. From samples of copper already f;ubmitt(kh 71 It is somewhat singular that the New Brunswick press has been hitherto reticent in the matter of the natural wealth of its Province. But it is an encouraging sign to note the excertions (notwithstanding the depression which in the freight business is said to have touched bottom) wliich are 4)eing made to biing thesi' industries into public notice by the formation of public companies and in other ways. Capital is not wanted ; but the ch.ief requisite so far seems to have been the want of experienced men who thoroughly understand the capabilities of the various rescources at their disposal. Before closing let me say I have just heard that a rich vein of anthracite coal was discovered a ftw days ago at Little Lepreaux, on Mace's Bay, near Lepreaux Harbor. Tlie news has caused some excitement, but is belived to be true. JNo. XIV. HALIFAX, N.S. Halifax, whose history dates back from July, 174!), like that of its sister •city, St. John, is full of interesting associations, not necessary to repeat here. Thoy form a part of the history of the Dominion, and the more important facts are familiar to almost every school boy. But the Halifax of to-day has an attraction to the tourist which cannot be overlooked. Its beautiful situation, its magnificent harbor, its splendid scenery, its mili- tary connections, its ocean traffic and its splendid buildings cannot be described in detail in a single letter. The front of the city fringes the well sheltered harbor, and as you turn towards the south and east from the citadel the panoramic stretch of scenery gradually melts into the purple haze of horizon and golden light. The picturesque abounds everywhere. Indeed, you may look from almost any point and you will find something new to charm you, whether it be hill, river, i.sland or lake ; or with a good field glass you may take in one of the sublimest views the most enthusiastic admirer of Nature could desire. The excellent shelter afitbrded by MacNab's Island, which lies at its mouth, gives security to the shipping from wind or tempest. Tlie island is thickly covered with hardwood, and in the full beauty of its summer foliage it can scarcely bo surpassed for pictorial effect. Eastern Passage lies to the east of the island, while to the western extremity of the island, on Meagher's Beach, stands the lighthouse. St. George's Island, which literally lies in the heart of the harbor, pro- tects it from invasion from hostile foes. The island is oval, and is strongly fortified with several large guns, which command the city, wharves and shipping. The appearance of the city fiom the citadel is a peculiar mixture of .«pires, smoke, house-tops and dust; and perhaps it cannot be truthfully 72 said that, 8o far as the city itself is concerned, the view from tliis point does it justice. The nortliern part of the city, or " North End," as it is- called, is connpicuous for its many beautiful private residences. To the west is " Dutch Village," while to the southwest of the town we reach the head of the Northwest Arm, dotted with islands. Along the "Arm" sev- eral nne mansions and country seats are being erected in the centre of rich woodland, and the white hou.ses present a very charmng effect of light and shade. Following the same direction the Park is reached, situated in the centre of all that is lovely to the eye. West of the citadel lies the Com- mon, where "Held days" are held by the garrison troops. South of the Common arc the Public Gardens, containing about twenty acres. They are really a credit to the city, and are equal to anything of the kind I have seen in the Dominion. West of the Public Gardens you have Camp Hill Cemetery, somewhat unattractive in its silent gloom The city has a population of about 30,000 souls. It is throe miles long and about one mile wide. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. The Post Office building in Ilollis street may be said to be in the busi- ness centre of the city. Close by are the Parliament buildings in HoUis street, and near them is the Young Men's Christian Association building, a four-storey edifice, recently erected, which is quite as imposing in its exte- rior proportions as the one in Montreal. On the opposite side of tiie way is the new Masonic Hall, on Pleasant street, and St. Mary's Cathedral, and also close to it is the Government House. The Halifax Club on Hollis street is also a modern handsome edifice > from the centre of which the social phase of Halifax society may be said to graduate. In addition to the numerous commercial and banking institu- tions, many of which are fine noble blocks of solid stone, Halifax has reason to be proud of its FREE PUBLIC LIBRARY, which contains some 10,000 volumes, and is free to all who wish to read them. Naturally enough, the citizens pride themselves upon having an institution in their midst which is so well conducted as this appears to be. EDUCATIONAL AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. For its size, Halifax has more charitable institutions than any other city in the Maritime Provinces. Including tlie Asylum for the Insane at Dart- mouth, opposite the city, erected on Mount Hope, and the Inebriate Asy- lum near First Lake, there are no less than fifteen benevolent institutiens for " all sorts and conditions of persons," where the blind, the maimed and the halt can receive gratuitous assistance. To detail these as they deserve would require a special aiticle. These societies, botii religious and secu- lar, are a credit t) the city and to the persons who personally irteretit A II 73 hemselves in their development. The asylums for the insane, and for the hlind and deaf and dumb, deserve especial mention. THE FORTIFICATIONS attract a large number of tourists, who throng the various forts and keep- the military officials busily engaged in replying to an endless number of questions.. At the present time it is estimated there are about 2,000 troops in the garrison, consisting of the GOth lloyal Rifles, the 87th Foot, the Royal Horse Artillery, and some detachments of the Corps of Engineers. The soldiers have every facility for enjoyment and mental improvement, liibraries, reading-rooms, billiards, refreshment rooms, where a good cup of coffee and bread and butter may be had for three cents, and, in fact, every- thing a man can reasonably want may be obtained. The opinion, however, was frequently expressed to your correspondent that the present terirf of enlistment (six years) has failed to answer the purpose originally intended. The friends of the measure supposed that a better class of men could be obtained, but experience has proved, by the sample of recruits sent out from England since the new Enlistment Act has been in force, that the very opposite has been the result. The physical and moral status of the soldier of to-day is much inferior to that of ten years ago. Old and well- tried men are fast leaving the service, and the result is the introduction of an element entirely ut variance with the requirements of a good soldier. Just now there arc no ships of war at the station, and the only vessel of interest at present laying up is the Faraday, belonging to the Atlantic Cable Company— one of the most complete scientific vessels afloat. It is fitted with every improvement known to electricians, and it has on more than one occasion demonstrated its fitness for the service of repairing Atlantic cables. THE CITADEL, or, as it is known, the "Star Fort," is to an inexperienced eye the perfec- tion of militiiry construction. But, strange to say, recent events have proved it is far from being as strong as was formerly supposed. This is illustrated by the fact that at the time of my visit t'.ie engineers were repairing some twenty feet of wall, four to six feet in thickness, which had given way from the shock caused by the firing of the morning and evening gun ! A recent writer in Vaniii/ Fair has well said, in speaking of the Royal Engineers, that they have been principally engaged of late years in repairing each others' work. This is strictly true, as may be seen by the recent improvements in several of the forts along the harbor, which were necessitated by the mounting of eighteen-pounder guns, to accommodate which extensive alterations had to be made in the original plans of some of the fortifications, which had only just been completed win n the guns arrived from England. If Halifax people had to pay for these enormous renovations it would soon become a bankrupt c'ty. 74 Two mill 8 from the centre of the city is Fort Ogilvio, and near it Fort 'C-'ambridge. Those forts are, of course, made as strongly as military 8 ;ience can make them. They are built of granite, (lose to the shore are Point Pleasant Battery, the Northwest Arm Batt.jry, and, upon the summit of the Park, the i'rince of Wales' Towor. 'I'hese are old fortifira- ■t'.ons, and are stipposed to be retained " merely for the look of the thing." Not far from the Northwest Arm is Melville Island, now a military prison, formerly used as a place of confinement for the prisoners captured during the war of ] s ] 2-1 4. St. George's Island stands in the centre of the harbor, and contains one of ihe strongest, if not the strongest of forts. Fort Char- lotte, lately rebuilt, is considered as stroi::,' as modern science can make it. On the eastern shore of the harbor is another formidable structure named Fort Clarence. Another line of batteries on the northwestern shore of McNab's Island commands the harbor below St. George's Island. In atldi- tion to these are the martello towers on Meagher's Beach and Sambro Island, while en the land side is York Picdoubt. Halifax harbor may be truthfully said to be the Cronstadt of America. The militixry cemetery is at Fort Massey, near the south end of Queen street. COMMERCIAL. Halifax is tin; terminus of nine lines of steamers, also the terminus of the eastern division of the Intercolonial Rm ' ay, as well as the starting jioint of the Windsor & Annapolis Railwav ecently an effort has been made to resuscitate a ( 'hamber of Commerce ; but it is an extraordinary fact that nothwithstanding the vast amount of capital, the natural wealth of mines within its reach, and the immense advantages which its lieautiful harbor possesses for winter trade, the commercial enterprise in Halifax is nominally dead. Let me give j'ou an illustration. Not long since, a meet- ing of citzens was held to organize a Board of Trade. Speeches were made subscriptions were ijromised, and all the enthusiam crcjitcd by a " novelty" was brought to bear upon the subject. But, unfortunately, the first spasm of interest was also its last, and to-day the Halifax Board of Trade meets in a dingy, badly lighted room where it would be difficult to crowd fifty persons into it -without making everybody feel uncomfortable. This fact seems to be significant of the people. There can be no doubt about the matter, that in point of superiority Halifax harbor is far ahead of St John. It is comparatively free fiom tides, and not liable to dense fogs to which .•iailors are subjected in approaching St. John harbor. But on the other hand the merchants of St. .John do business, probably, witii half the Province of Nova Scotia. There is no want of capital, but there is a large int there is much ability in Halifax, but it is somewhat cramped because at times there is really nothing to write about. A good hotel is sadly needed in the city. True, there are the "Halifax" and the "International," where strangers receive every atten- tion ; but the city is growing, and year by year it is thronged with tour- ists. There can be no doubt that, in this respect, Halifax can learn some thing from St. John. In conclusion, the future of Halifax is largely in the hands of its people, who, so far as my exerience goes, are exceedingly kind and hospitable. Naturally, it is surrounded by everything that is beauti- ful. Not only is it particularly favoured in a picturesiiue sense, but its environs contain large mineral deposits, of which more will be said in a future letter. XV. // THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. Leaving the Intircolonial at Halifax wo talie the train of the Windsor & Annapolis Railway en route for Annapolis, passing through one of the most beautiful stretches of scenery to be found on the continent. From Halifax to V^'indsor, forty-five miles, the road, whicVi is now in capital condition, runs through a country of rocks and hills. At first the .surroundings do not impress you with any special admiration until you reach Bedford Basin, a beautiful sheet of water, around which the railroad runs for a disttvnce of eight miles. At the head of the Basin is the village of Bedford, famous for its shad fishing. Leaving it we pass thi-ough miles of lorefit\Scenery full of interest from its imposing character. The next place worthy of notice is Windsor, Here the River Avon is spanned by an iron lattice girder bridge 1,IG0 feet long, supported on piers and abutments of free stone. It was erected at a cost of jE32,000, The town, which is famous as the seat of King's College, the oldest university in the Province, is built on a large hill, and overlooks one of the most beautiful views it is posjiible to imagine. The far-famed Basin of ]Minas, with Cape Blomidon in the distance, reminds us that we have just entered "THE LAM D OF EVANGELINE," celebrated in Longfellow's immortal poem. Miles of orchard gardens, where trees are loaded down with golden-colored, rich, juicy-looking fruit, gives one an impression not soon forgotten. The sweet-scented hay per- fumes the atmosphere M'ith its grateful fragrance, .and instinctively we recall the lines : — ■' Fn the AcnJian land, on the slioresi of the Basin of Minos, Distant, sochided, still, the little village of (irand I're Lay in the valley." The Grand Pre of to-day, however, is in direct contrast with the poetical ;< Railway, and which will explain itself:— [Copy.] C'AMBlUDfiK, Sei)t. 2."), IST'i. Mv Dear Sib : I have had the pleasure of receiving from Mr. Henunell the two canes which you were kind enough to send me as a souvenir of Acadia, and hasten to thank you for this mark of your regard. It has never been my good fortune to see the beautiful country through which you pass daily, and I fear I shall never see it— save in imagina tion. All the more shall I prize the branch of the apple tree from Grand Pre and the white ash cane from tlu; top of Bloomidale. I beg you to accept my cordial thanks for your kindnc .s in fending them, and to believe me, Yours very truly, Henry W. LosnFELLow. We next reach Wolfville, which boasts of a college of some repute, situated in the midst of a thriving and industrious community. Soi ;e of the mos conspicuous features of the country through which we pass in this section are the huge dykes, comprising hundreds of acres, reclaimed and protected from the Bay of Fundy by the original settlers, Acadian French. These dykes enclose some of the richest hay grounds in the Province. ♦ KENTVILLE • is the next place of importance. Here are the head offices of. the Windsor & Annapolis Railway The rural beauty of the place strongly reminds one of some lovely garden spot in Kent or Devonshire. The air is pure, the scenery is beautiful, and the people are clean-looking and happy. The air is particularly pure and refreshing, and indeed this charming spot is unsurpassed for its many natural beauties. The village lies in a valley bounded by the CornwalUs River, and is contiguous to the far-famed *' Garden of Nova Scotia," in which it should be included as a part. Th.) Ticinity is not only blessed by its rich crops of fruit and natural situatioi ^"^ 78 but excellent salmon an-l trout fishing may be had during the seasou. Woodcock, snipe, partridge and duck aie to be found in abundance during the autumn, when hundreds of tourists pay their annual visit. A short distance iVom Kentville we enter the great apple-growing country of the Dominion, wh.ch lies in THE ANNiPOLIS VALLEY, rich in everthmg that is charming io the eye. The fertility almost exceeds belief, while the beautiful landscapes along its border delights the eyes and refreshes the senses, the mountains in the distance making a bold back-ground pleasant in its relief and grandeur. After casually noting Berwick, Aylsford and Kingston, the next stopping place of any importance is MIDDLETOX, chiefiv remarkable for the falls on the Nictaux lUver, and the iron mines. The scenery in the vicinity of the North Mountains is said to oc extremely fine, P issing Lawren jotown, we next arrive at PARADISE. Whoever named this place Paradise, is either the prince of satirists or tlie simplest of humans. Paradisj, as seen Iroiu the sUition, is not a lovely view but as seen from a distance it may in all sincerity be said that " Disttmce lends enchantment to the view," so far as Paradise is concerned. The place is as great a misnomer as Paris in Vermont. Ind(Hd 1 half 5 .-pect tiiat some Jealous American hadbome- thing to do with originating the Paradise of Nova Scotia, and the reason why I think so is based upon the following story, which is vouched to me as being correct. (By the way, there's always a certain amount af risk in relating another i)erson's " original" story.) However, here it is: — It is said that a Nova Scotian upon asking an ar.cient Vermont farmer who it was who named one of the stations along tlic; line of the Vermont Central Rjiilway, Paris, was told tliat it was called after Jeremiah Paris,who formerly owned the land on wliich tiie ^t.ion was built. "Then its origin has nothing to do with a young lady ^y the name of Helen?" remarked the enquirer. " If yer mean Helen Bigelow, maybe it has," cob I believe one of the Parises married a Bigelow gal." "Then probably the person / mean might have been a relation, a third cousin perhaps. The lady I refjr to was Helen o'Troy." The farmer " 'lowed he didn't know any such person, leastwise not in Li» time.' ' •, - k 79 Glossing the Annapolis Rivfr, tiie road from Bridgeiown, the ntxt- station, to ANNAPOLIS ROYAL, runs through the same charming country in the midst of a ricli valley. Annapolis stands on the first site ,of the first town settled in Acadia. Originally the town was named, hy De Monts, in 1605, Port Royal, Ferlaud {cours du hiMorie du Canad-i) says : " Port Royal, now Annapolis, founded in 1605, is the first durable settle- ment formed by the Frencii in North America, and the most ancit-nt town in this part of the world after St. Augustine." Annapolis, in all the old records, bears a conspicuous part as being the headquarters of the French in the New World. It has stood sioge after siege, and attacks from all quarters. Portions of the old fortifications are still titanding, wliile from the summit a glorious prospect of the -'rounding country may be seen. For thirty-si.x years Annapolis wu.. the .seat of Government, when in 174^ it was transferred to Halifax, On the opposite side of the rivi r is Granville, a place of some note in connection with shipbuilding. And now I must close my brief description of this beautiful tract of country, and acknowledge the courtesy of the kindly ofticials of the Windsor & Annapolis Railway fof tiie facilities they have e.\tended your correspondent ia writing up the natural garden of Nova Scotia. The Company has provided ea.«y aiitl comfortable eoache.-;, and notwith- standing the huge difficulties with which it has had to contend in tho past, the excellent road-bed, and the charming scenery through whicli the road runs, will doubtless secure in the fiitiue' a huge amount of tratiie from the neighbouring Province and the United States. The fishing and shooting, in its proper season, is good, and so far I could observe there i.s ainple liotel accommodation alonu the road. THE MINING INDUSTRIES OF NOVA SCOTIA. The extensive area in Nova Scotia covered by its niinenil deposits is so vast as to render the difficulty of preventing even a general idea of the subject very great. A personal inspiiction of these large tracts of coal, iron anl gold has rather the effects of bewildering the tourist than of adding to his stoi^k of information in regard to them. It is, therefore, the intention of your cor- respondent to give as far as available the results, from the best authorities, of their workings. 80 COAL. The lleport of tlie Depaitnmtof Mines for the year 1875 is very conci 'ipon the subject, and from it we take the main facts in this article, having reference only to the large and more import vnt workings. CUMBERLAND COUNTY. The trade of Cuniber'.and County alone shows an increase; exceeding by 11,000 tons that of the pr/vio'js year. The increase steadily rose from 14,000 in 1872, to 20,000 in 1873 : and from 49,600 in 1874, to 60,944 tons in 1875. Tlic local sales were 1,000 tons of round and 1,000 of stock, in •excess of the year before ; and the exports of New Brunswick increased 11,000 tons; while the trade with the United States decreased 2,000 tons. These figures arc given in round numbers. .HOGGINS COAL MINES. On lease :>1, adjoining, on the south, that of the Jogging Coal Mining Association, a borc-hol( was put down at the corner where the road turns in to the .loggins Mine, and the Joggius Main Scam pierced at the depth of ],^28 feet. The hole was made by an American diamond drill, owned by Mr. .John Logan and other."!, of Pictou — the same that was mentioned in in the 'ast Report as having done its work so well. No ottier r-ports of explorations made in this tield have been received OX' epl fr/m the Njw Dominion • oal L'ompany, who have further proved the .sc AHi.i on the area of the Hon. A .T. Smitii Tlie level on the main s "am has been -Iriven 400 feet, and from it two drifis have be^a driven northerly, which have intersected two other seams ; iho rirst two feet three inches thick, at a distanc e of sixteen feet, and the second twenty-two iache-x in thickness, at a distance of twenty-nine feel from the main seam. It is expected that a slope will be put down on tlie main seam during the -uinmer, to test the quality <>f the coal to tlie deep. The seam varies in thickness from foin- feet to five feet six inches, with a parting of tire clay, which, under more of the i over of the hill, is only six to eight inches In thickness. CHARACTER OF THE MINE. rrolcBHor .1. W. Diurnoti, F. U H., roniurUs in )iiM work entitled '' Acadian Uoology," 18,'^iH, pngiiB IHU, IIIO |0| I " (iottl.— Only oho deposit of this mineral in now worked in Cumberland. 'I'ho Jnggins Main Seam, ron^Mlng of I wo ]h>i\h, three feet six inches and one foot six inches tldck, with a clay jjarting hetween, varying from ono foot to a few inciies. It is a frou burning bitundnoup coal of a fair (]uality.' The apeciraen of .loggins coal from Main Scam is bright coal of uniform ^ ^f. n 81 texture, with straight joints containing fibres of iron pyrites and calcareous matter. Moisture 2-5 Volatile Combustible Matter 36-3 Fixed Carbon 560 Reddish Gray Ashes , 5-2 N If, I 'i 100 In further confirmation of the good character of this coal, it may be said a very large number of certificates received from practical, reliable men who have used it for steam and manufacturing purposes, and who testify cheer fully to its superior steam-producing quality, its cheapness compared with other coals, and also to the very encouragingfact of its gradual and continued improvement as greater depth is obtained ; and so far as the science of geof- ogy can determine, the quantity of coal contained in this seam is considered unlimited. ♦ SPRING HILL. The mining of coal from the West or Hall Slope has been stopped, the workings alon-j being kept free from water. In the East or Bycrs Slope the levels have been so extended that the faces are now 800 feet apart. The level going east has met with some difficulties, being first troubled with a roll in the floor, and then with a thickening of the parting. The rooms have been drivcm horizontally twelve feet wide, leaving pillars SI ven or eight yards in thickness. One counter-balance has been put up oil the east side, and two on the west, to lower the coal from the upper rooms to the level. The workings are drained by a direct acting sieam pump which forces the water a vertical height of 427 feet, through a column 820 feet long. The pump has a twenty-two inch cylinder, thirty inch stroke, and nine inch plunger. To clean the slack coal of dust and fire clay, and to prepare it the better for market, a screening appratus has been erected. The coal from the screen is hoisted by a small engine forty-two feet above the track, and passed through a circular screen four feet in diameter and twtuity-lwo feet long. The upper nine feet isof fi\ e-eighths-inch mesh ; then follokH four feet ofhalf-inch mesh, and then nin-■■ 7"^ 82 PICTOU COUNTY. The total coal sales of this county, while they exceeded those of 1'873 hy 3,000 tons, show a decline, when compared with the trade of the year before, of nearly 21,000 tons — a quantity which is less by some 20,000 tons than tliat of the sales of the Acadia Company are short of their annual average. That company has again yielded the first place in the list of shipmentK, wliicli for some years it he!!, and the Albion Mines have regained thei'- old supremacy. The falling oft" in the home consumption is small — 4,rd Pit have reached the deep seam, at a distance of 185 yards, and provcti it there to contain twenty feet of good coal. The .stone parting, wliicli is four feet thick to the rise, was found only nine inches thick, and thu ovci hiving coal to have increased from four feet to four feet six inches in thickness This satisfactory condition of the .seam has induced the starting of an incline, from the ("age Pit working.^, in a south-easterly direction, to open up that portion of the deep seam. Until the drifts from the main seam proved tlic coal to be of good quality, doubts had been entertained, because of tin; inferior (quality of that immediat^ily to the rise, into which, sf>me time ago, levels had been driven. The principal operations in the Cage Pit have been towards the north, and three counter-balances are now going on that side of the incline, and one has been started off the level on the south side. The under-ground engine has been replaced by another which brings the rake up with greater ease and speed. The return air-ways have been en- larged, and some 30,000 feet of air now circulate through the workings. The special pump at the foot of the incline now delivers the exhaust steam into the suction, and while freeing the workings of a great inconvenience assists the pump at its work. The Iwiieis on the surface havr been shedded over, whereby a saving of fuel is eifected, and protection given to the stokers during inclement weather. The great distance to which the steam has to be taken underground causes a condensai.on of over 50 per cent., and doubtless a saving would be effected were the .steam i)ipe coated for its entire length with some non-conducting material. In the Foord Pit the north levels have, for some time, been checked by a fault which has at last been pierced, and the coal found beyond. The 83 south sid»; also met a fault, but which was not expected to give much trouble. In hoisting the coal, the double-deck cages holding four tubs are now used, and tlms about 80 per cent, more coal can be brought to bank in a given time. For the workmen, additional accomodation ol a superior class has been provided. A boarding house containing fourteen rooms, and eight blocks of two dwellings, each having a porch and containing two rooms. VALE. Some changes have been made in the method of working the McBain Seam at this colliery. The pillars are now twenty ftet thick, and the bords have been widened to sixteen feet. A second level has been driven below the main level .is an air and water course, and horses have been introduced to facilitate the transit. On the west side a fault of twenty feet has been met with and pierced. On the surface there are now ninety-two tentsments for the accomodation of the workmen. Near the junction with the Pictou Branch Railway a locomotive shed has been put up, and a new locomotive obtained, suitable for the ordinary guage to which the railway track was changed daring the summer. No work of any moment was done on Mitchell and Barton's area. CAFK BRETON COUNTY. Tlie continued decline iu the produition of coal in this county has been a sourct! of much suflferiug to the mining population, and it is greatly to be feared that unless a change for the letter wtHtn takes place in the trade, numbers i»f the m^n usaatiy employed about the m'nes will hav- to seek elsewhere tor work and in new occupations lind empldvment. For not even in the UruteU State** are the collieries open to them, since the trade is there equai'v -^ dull and overdone as it is here. Comparii^ *. 2200!Chandler. . . . .1 Harrington. — |How. . . . .jDawfon. . . . .IJohnjaon. . . . .iHow. . .. JHow. • . • 'Chapman. m^ 15 Bicli.'fd. Harrington. For other analyses see How's "Mineralogy of Nova Scotia, 1868." and (Geological Surrey Reports of Progress. the THE NOVA SCOTIA COAL TRADE WITH ^"HE UNITED STATES AND ELSEWHERE. There is one feature of the general trade which, as it shnwa a healthy condition, is well worthy of more than passing attention — it is the trade with the neighhoring ProvinceH Even in compctiticui with free American coal, it haH more than doubled within the last four years. 85 Coal sold to neighboring Provinces : 1871 168,577 tons. 1872!.'.'..'.". 285,433 " 1873 337,993 " 1874 .'538,754 " 1875 381,711 " ■ Nova Scotia Sold At Home. To other B. N. A, Provinces. 1871 ,. 150,232 1872.. 199,88H 1873.. 215,295 1874.. 214,965 1875.. 212,630 168,577 285,433 337,983 338,754 381,711 Casada Imported From United States. ! Great Britain. 216,633 428,455 671,224 512,835 190,680 177,904 131,338 186,753 Years. | Quantities. 1865.. 1866.. 1867.. 1868.. 1869.. IBIO.. 1871.. 1872.. 1873.. 1874.. 1875.. 465,194 404,252 338,492 228,132 257,485 168,180 165,431 154,094 264,760 138,335 89,746 Duty. Free. $1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.26 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.75 HE United States. Canada Imported FROM the Authority. United States. Unit<;d States. Custom House. Reports. 11 216,633 11 Nova Scotia Dept. ot Mines Reports, li 428,455 671,124 512,835 -86 S ( » I I I. THE GAS COALS EXPORTED WERE SENT FROM THE FOLLOWING CAPE BRETON PORTS. Ports. To New York. Cow Bay, about 10,899 tons. Sydney, " 11,172 Caledonia, " 445 Glace Bay, " 1,941 Lingan, " 760 To New England. 458 tons. 870 7,584 914 ] .3,786 IRON. 'I'he importations by the Dominion of Canada during the fiscal year ending June 30th, 1876, of pig iron, amounted to the value of $1,229,989, and of railway bars, fish plates, &c., to the value of $.5,289,454. The Londonderry Mines, which are controlled by the Steel (Company of Canada, it is thought, will he the means of developing the inexhatistible quantity of ore which lies beneath the surface. The extensive preparations which were being made at the time of my visit, wore of a character which is extremely creditable to the Province. The two blast furnaces alone, it is expected, will produce 600 to 700 tons of metal per week. The amount of pig iron, however, consumed by the Lower Provinces does not exceed 600 tons annually, and consequently a market will have to be sought in (tntario and Qneiiec. The mining department is under Ihe charge of Capt. Bryant, an experienced and able English miner, who has under his charge some 300 miners, of whom a large number are Cornishmen. Some 16 adits havi; been driven at the principal points along the line of the deposits. At Cook's Brook one has been driven to the west 580 feet, and it has yet to go 350 feet before it is expected to cut the ore bed at a depth of 150 feet from the surface. Another has been driven in the east bank 585 feet, and has yet to go 230 leet more to reach the deposit of the ore. At Slack's Brook an adit has been driven 980 feet, and it is shortly expected to strike the ore. A surface level, No. 2, at Martin's Brook, proved the existence of much ore in ground supposed to be nearly worked out. No.7, the lowest adit of all, has been driven 1,290 feet. On he east side of Londonderry the mining operations have been confined to Folly Mountains, where five adits are in course of being driven at various depths, for draining the extensive ore deposits already discovered in that locality. The deepest striking the ore ground 250 feet from the surface. The total quantity of ore in sight is variously estimat--.! up to 300,000 tons. To convey the ore from the West Mines at Martin's Brook to the furnaces ai Londonderry, a tramway of three feet guage, and two and a half miles long, has been built and laid with steel rails ; and a branch of the ordinary 4 *.\ 87 four feet eight inches and a half guage, five miles long, connects the East Mines, at the base of Folly Mountain, with the Intercolonial Railway a DeBert Station, and so with the works at Londonderry. There are also some good iron ores at Cleveland, ou the west side of the Nictaux River, Annapolis County, which are said to be of good quality. At Springville, on the oast river of Pictou, extensive iron deposits exist. The following Statement sbews the quantity and value of Pig Iron imported into the Dominion of Canada by Provinces during the three montlis ended 30th September, 1875.