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58 f^

II A li P F ? ' S

MW MONTHLY MAGi

^TF,

No. CCIV.-MAY, I867.-VOI,. XXXIV.

THE PICTURED ROCKS Ob' LAKK SUPERIOR.

'iMi: (■ii.vi'i:r., mxiking v, ii-t.

TIIK nn«;o of s.nndstniip diHs known ii.'< tlie
I'ii'tiiri'd Koiks of liiikc; Siii)erior iiro in
Schoolcraft County, Micliin.in, on tlio sontli
A\on\ of till) liikc, ii1i')iit oni.! linnili-cil mile*
from llio Siuilt St. Marie, mid sixty lliis .'^idc
of Miininetfc ; licini?, l!u'n'foiT, ii plcnsnnt fund
pi'o(ltiil)ic) summer retreat, witli .sonio few dis-
adviintiine.i, tins chief of whicli is tiio iiii])iillinK
tact tliat it is iiliont two or llirec dnjs' ciinoe
journey, eitlier way, to ii l)eof-stoak.

AmoiiK my inemorie.'< of scliool-hoy rendiiiKS
are acconnts of loitK voyages of exjilorers, .fcsu-
it inissionarieH, and ('aiiadian voyaneiirs, all of

whom descrihe tlio wonderful lieaulics of ihe
Grand Portal, Cliniiel, ami of the siirroiimliiijj
rock.". One winter evcninU) many years n),'o,
an Oneida Oiiief put np at my father's tavern in
Ceiilrai New York, and liaviiiK 'leen a friend of
the family in the East, lie was invited to th..'
kitclien, where the fireat wide-moiitli"d (lie-
plac() warmed liis heart and illuminated his
coiintenai'ce, while lie astonished and delighted
II large circle of listeners, who half noKlt'''f''<l
their apj les and spiced cider listenii!)j; lo the
story i^^ Ills journey to the (ircat West, selectiiiK
rt new homi^ for his ;ril)0, who were to he

Kntercd iicconlliiK' I') Act of Coinrrcss, hi the year IsOT, tiy Harper iiiiil Brnthers, In llie Clerk''' f)tUco nf the
UiHlrlil (Jiuirt for llu; Houtlierii Dlslrlct nl'New York.
Vol,. XXXIV.— No. *J(»I.— Zz

(582

HARPER'S NliW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.

removed liy tlie Government nt Wasliington.
During that long golden evening I sat snugged
up in the eorner, swallowing every word, witii
hair rising and flesh crawling at the thrilling
talQS; anil, when I could take my eyes away
from his face long enough, looked among the
pictures in the fire for the rocks and waves,
lioars and deer, jjanthers and otters, Indians and
Canadian voyageurs, wigwams and hircli canoes
of his enchanting harangue.

Many times since then 1 have wished and re-
solved to see the rocks, and the desire has at
length been gratified, and just as if some gooil
spirit had ordered the fulfillment of my dreams.
The way to get tlierc is siui])le enougli to those
who have read of Solomon's Cari)et and its won-
derful Journeys. A steamboat is a much mote
wonderful thing than Solomon or llarouu al
K.ishoed ever dreamed of; and when you are
prepared for the trip, with pencil, note-liook,
sketch-book and colors (if you can use them),
cans of preserved milk, and any other eatable
au<l drinkable you j)loase, and plenty of thick
clothing, one of them will take you from either
Uutt'alo or Chicago, aiul in .i very short and
eventful trip you find yourself, some fine morn-
ing about sunrise, far out into Lake Superior,
glass in hand, looking southward, trying to make
out whether it is rocks uv sand banks that you
see. For this side the rocks, extending many
miles, there are immense banks of sand throe
hundred feet liigh, called the Grand Salile, a
name given by the Freucli, meaning liig Sands.
Having been told that we should be in sight of
flic rocks at sunrise, we were out on deck shiver-
ing in the cold starlight several times during the
night, expecting to see them loom up in the dim,
uncertain light. But the only visible objects
besides the steamer were the stars, so very
bright, whose light the steamer was trying to
puff out with its double column of ])itchy smoke.
As yon look and shiver, the strange notion seizes
you tliat the boat may be a thing of life after
all, siieli energy and jjower aiul seeming jiur-
pose, heaving its way through the dark waters !

After breakfast you catch the first glimpse of

the Sable, far away to the south, gray and cloud-
like. Then two or three hours after the rocks
are made out through the glass, and now is
the time for excitement among the passeng?rs.
Swiftly the boat glides along, and point after
point of shore is left behind with their fairy-like
forms and colors — a tndy grand jivocession of
wonders, not eqiudcd in its kind in all the
world.

15ut ii is our business to get ashore, and take
to the small -boat for an exploration. One
glimpse is not enough ; we must linger here for
weeks, and become familiar with the scenes we
have so long desired to see. JJefore liinding us
on Grand Island the steward of the slcamer
Planet cooked up a snpjily of beef-steak, and \mt
it into our carpet-bag, packing it with crackers
and a peck of apples, saying : " This will kpej)
you in memory of civilized life while in the wil-
derness." Thus supplied, we felt valorous and
ready for a trip of any easonable extent.

We were directed to inquire of the Irlians
or fishermen on the island for Mr. Williams,
who would probably lend ns a boat, and in due
time found him in his new house (not .quite fin-
ished, although it has b^en building for several
years). On the way to it from wliere we land-
ed we were so occupied in watching the Indian
women and children on the shore cleaning fish
that we did not notice the water coming into
the batteau we were using ; so our things were
soaked in dirty water, and had to bo spread out
on the grass to dry. Shirts, stockings, and all
our useful dry-goods were discotu'aging objects
a thousand miles from our wash-woman. The
carpet-bag containing the meat was laid in the
grass near the house when we rajjped at Mr.
Williams's door, and was left there a few mo-
ments while chatting with the old patriarch.
In a few words, always direct and without wait-
ing to be questiimed, he gave us an account of
his coming there Ihrty or fifty years ago, his
family grown to be men and women having
families of their own. Hut not all of them were
living — four of them, his sons and daughters,
having been d; ^wned in u storm when return-

INDIAN U0U8.

THE PICTURED ROCKS OF LAKE SUPERIOR.

683

'"■•;::S'V~'( iv\;'--^Xl.'

.,S'^>

U1(ANI> I8LANI> UARUOR.

iiig ill a small-hoiit from Rlurqiictte, where they
luul heeii for stores.

We could have listened longer, but a growl
or two at the door attracted the old man's quiek
ear, when ho asked : " Is there any thing in
your carpet- bag that dogs would like to get at ?"
In a moment we were at the door; but it was
too lute. \Vc explained what iras in the bag
to Mr. Williams, when we discovered it emjitied
and (he steak gone. What was said in the in-
spiration of tlie nnmient was doul)tless said
forcibly, jicrhaps eloipiently, but not rcsjiectful-
ly. There was no resjiect shown to dogs, most
especially to Indian dogs. Patience, meekness,
and forbearance were virtues not then in de-
mand, certainly not in nse. Vocabularies of
terms, exact and otherwise, suggesting ideas
ilerivcd from a belief in the Plutonian system
.111(1 others, were exhausted, and the crowning
I'tVort was that of the gray-haired j)ioncor when
lie learned that an untold amount of savory sir-
loin ready for the tooth had been devastated by
the dogs. He lifted nj) liis voice (ricli and so-
norous from his long outdoor habits), but he
did nut weep, lie drew it mild, in u patriarchal

manner, discovering much learning and experi-
ence on the subject of Indians and their dogs.

There are resident on the island a few In-
dians of the Chippewa tribe, whose wigwams
are built a few rods from Mr. Williams's houses,
and who seemed to have imliilied just ciiougli
civilization to wear calico dresses, old coats,
and dila])idated stove - i)i|)o hats, and drink
whisky, when the latter is to bo got. Ten
and tobacco, of course ; but these are no evi-
dence of civilized habits. As yon stand under
the Point of Pines, near Mr. Williams's liouses,
and look toward the Indian wigwams, yon see
only such sights as belong to a wild life. There
are several wigwams around which squaws and
piqiooses arc liiisy at work or play ; and sever-
al liircli canoes jailled up on the sand beach.
"Pully," son-in-law of the old <',liief, a half-
breed, French and Indian, is hel|iiiig bis squaw
clean lisli — wliite-lisli and trout — which he has
just taken from the pound-net, which is set ti
few rods from the shore in the harbor. Tiie
pure In<lians will not help their sqnnws do such
work, as it is einisidered unfit for men to per-
form dirty labor. And so it is ; but then men

684

HARrERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.

\i^!yt^'

Itll.l, T.r.M.M.

tlificr so materially ns to what may lie called
dirty work.

Here wc arc, then, lookiii!;; on ns much In-
dian lil'e as there is to l)c found this side the
Uoeky Mountains. Now turn around wliere
yon stand and look tiic other way, and tlie
scene ciumges. These loR-liouses, one story
high, hailt very solidly, wilh small windows,
very stout door, arc the original strong-hold of
Mr. William^, huilt when ho first located here
fifty years ago. This first was dwelling, the
second hlacksmifh shoj), the third a store, now
full of goods, and tlui fourth the coojicr-shoi),
where the barrels are made fi)r putting up the
fish caught in the harbor; and tiio last house
is Hill Lemm's, son-in-law to Mv. Williams.
The house on the hill to the left is new, and
belongs to the present, and has im ttavor of age
about it yet — white and staring; while the old
ones arc covered all over witli delicate grays,
purples, and browns, and soft green mosses and
lichens — very comfortable-looking in their old
nge — innocent of paint, whitewash, or carpet,
overshadowed with venerable i)iiies, and their
sides half hidden by masses of weeds, tail grass-
es, and creeping vinos.

We found Mr. Lcmni ready to take us to
the rocks ''in the best boat on Lake Superior,
if he did build it himself;" fifteen feet long by
four beam ; mast and oars, with a provision-
chest, and named after his daughtir. Corn E.
Leiiiin. (And it may be here remarked in ]ia-
renthesis, that all this is true even to the name,
which was written all over the stern in eli'gant
English text.) Mrs. Lemm, he said, would
cook up biscuit, and we could go early next
morning. I'avt of our luggage was taken down
to Lemm's house, wliere v.e were to slcc]) that
night. How glorious it is to sleep in the conn-
try! I'leasc imagine that the biscuit business
had been carried on in one of the Largest stoves,
with fine dry wood, until half past ten, and (nir
bed was spread out on the fioor within ten feet
of the stove. The time is Jidy, and the mos-
quitoes liave gathered in millions to welcome the
strangers. Careful women shut the windows
and doors close. Fiirtlier particulars concern-
ing the comforts of sleeping in the country are
unnecessary. Then, again, it does seem im-
possil)le to get ready to go to bed. " Early to
bed and early to rise" was torn out of the pri-
mer they used when young, and Lemm seemed
inclined to stay u]) all night telling us his his-
tory, most especially about his gun. "The
best gun in the States, sure." Could draw a
iiead on a deer in the most difficul: and un-
henrd-of places. Drew a licad on a buck once ;
could just see his nose and one horn, ])erhaps
one eye, right by the side of a huge pine-tree;
but just as he pulled ihc trigger t]ie deer bound-
ed oil" into the woods. " Hut, yon know, he
carried that ball away with him ! Deer arc
getting more and more scary every year."

Next morning wo were olf briglit and early,
and as wc rowe<l across the bay Lemm recited
the Legend of Jliinising. Tliis was a grand
project of the l'iiilad('li)hians, artfidly laid out
on ))aper, wiili stpiares, ciiy lots, hotels, and
what not. Back of it a little way — a iialf mile
or so — is a jiretty waterfall, sixty feet high, in
the midst of the w oods — a delightful place to

TUB KIKbT INUAIIITAM'I UK MUMIHINU

THE riCTUUED liOCKS OF LAKE SUPEIIIOIJ.

G3.-.

f'l

■\*.

JI[Ni.U H I'AHTLE.

spcml smiimcr in. Tlio, hotel tliorc, I)uilt iind
fiinii.^hccl ill griiiul style, was occujiied one
season ; lint now the furniture i.s all stored in
licajis in one or two rooms, and only one man
lives there? to keej) watch over the things. In-
dians steal the hod-clothes when they get a
tlianec.

" S]ileiidid site ! that jMiinising. Ought to
liave had the railroad from V'seanaha through
to this jilacc instead of to Maniuette. But,
yon sec, the iron interest carried the day. It
runs now through a swainp most of the way ;
hut this route would a heeii good land all the ,
way. Besides, and this every one who has
lived on the lake knows, (irand Island Ilar-
hor is the only real safe liarhor on the entire
lake. Shut in from tlie storms in all directions. '
vessels and steamers jiut in here for safety
when n storm is raging outside. Waves may
roll high as a mcctin'-honsc out in the lake,
and it will he calm as n mill-jioiid in this liar- j
hor. Ba»l Joh carryin' the road to Maniuette. i
We've been through to Green JJay, in winter, '
hy this route, many a lime ; and Bully has car-
ried mail here for several rears wiieii the navi-

gation was closed, always starting into the wil-
derness for Munising. Back of the town, or
where it was laid out to he, the hills rise sud-
denly about two hundred feet, as you can see
from here ; and then the country is quite level,
all the way to Green Bav, and is heavily tim-
bered."

"Any game in that direction?"

"Deer, iianthers, bears, wolves, rabbits,
ducks, and a'most any thing yon are a mind
to shoot, and good ti'apjjing all winter. Hight
here, where the jioint of Grand Island comes
down into the harbor, the water is decji, and
the steamers can run close ; but on the other
side there is half n mile of shallow water, with a
hard-iian bottom, and vessels often get aground
on it. 1'ilots and old sailors know it. The
harbor seldom freezes over. A little round the
shores and u]) into the bays the storms and
winds make a jiretty strong cuiTcnt, which keeps
it o]ien. 'I'hat ])latlorm, half a mile from shore,
was built for a landing, and it was intended to
connect it with the shore by u i)laiik-walk and
carriage-way ; but the whole project went un-
der at once. The railroad to Mareiuette did

C86

IIAUrKR'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.

; I

it. Tlmt. spoilt Gnind Inland, or we'd all been
ricli."

The only iniiaViitant of this that was to be
rniglity city is ii jfretty smart man ; but then he
can't draw a bend with Lemm. It is two miles
to the Chimneys — tall, slender columns of rock,
among tlie trees, very much like factory-chim-
neys, and one e.\pects to see smoke issue from
them. A mile or two farther is tlie Castle —
called Miner's Castle, the lirst of the principal
features of the rocks. Tall towers, solid walls,
battlements, doorways, loopholes ; in general
effect, at a pro])er distance, there is to all ap-
pearance a real Norman Castle, and a more
solid, impregnable, never was built. Here we
go into the great doorway, and our boat sails
far in until we lose sight of the entrance.
Miner's Kiver enters the lake beside the Castle
and is a stream thirty or forty feet wide, and
forms quite a safe harbor for siyall boats in
rough -weather. Clitt" on the west shore of the
river and a sand-beach about thirty rods long
on the east. Last season Lemm says that a
venturesome young lady climlied to the top of
the highest point of the Castle, nearly a hun-
dred feet above the water.

Lemm says this beach is not so good for a
camp as the Chapel Beach, so we are to go
there to build our hut. Just beyond the Min-
er's Beach the Pictured Rocks begin to show
their wonders. Worn into strange shapes by
frost and storm, and Ktained by a thousand
dyes in every possible variety of arrangement,
far beyond the power of words to correctly de-
scribe, and all this profusion repeated mile after

mile, keeping up the interest by some new
prospect of sweeping curve, or abrupt angle, or
fantastic form.

The first cascade we met was two miles be-
yond the Castle, where the water falls about
twenty-five feet perpendicular, and then slides,
at an angle of about forty degrees, a hundred
and fifty feet farther. Here the colors are quite
monotonous and dull, and arranged in stripes
running downward. Lemm said that the next
headland but two beyond the cascade was the
Sail Kock, and we jndled hard to reach it.
Just as we neared it we discovered a profile in
the end of the cliff which bore a striking like-
ness to Franklin. The likeness from the other
side was not so recognizable, the features aj)-
pearing sharper. The Sail Kock is composed
of several fallen slabs of sandstone which rise
above the w^ater about seventy-five feet, and
from the east ai)i)ear like a schooner with sails
set, running in toward the rocks. The illusion
is complete. When we saw it from the steam-
er, a mile or two distant, it was supposed to be
a fishing or pleasure party craising along the
rocks. Two headlands intervene between the
Sail Rock and the Grand Portal — the Great
Door. These headlands are being continually
formed and changed by the waves and the ele-
ments, and are rounded outward with a con-
vexity of generally one foot in ten ; and one is
usually connected with another with long or
short concave sweeps of cliff — the outline tak-
ing the character of a telegraph-line suspended
rather slack between poles set at unequal dis-
tances. The general direction of the coast

eAiL nooR.

THE PICTURED ROCKS OF LAKE SUPEUlOli.

C8T

GBANU POBTAI. — EXTEHIOB.

from tlie Castle to the Door is northeast ; and
from the Door by a sharp angle nearly due east
to the Sable. All along the coast there are
hea])s of rocks which have fallen from the cliff,
and where the waves have not worn them down
(and the sandstone, of all the strata, readily dis-
integrates) still afford a landing-place. Lemm
says these avalanches usually happen in the
spring.

We were in a hurry to get to the Chapel
Beach before dark and put our hut in order, so
we made but a few moments' halt in the Great
Door. Sublime spectacle, a dome high in the
air, vast and impressive — echoing our voices
and the splashing of our oars, and alivo with
Hocks of gulls, we reluctantly pulled away from
it, resolving to come again, as soon as we shoidd
be located, to measure and explore it. But we
did not then know the inconceivable attractions
that lay beyond, and prevented our return for
many days. On the way to the Chajiel Beach
from the Door you pass by ten or twelve head-
lands formed very much like each other, and
each resembling the stern of a vessel ; and this
group we named the Stranded Fleet — from its
resemblance to a Heet of immense vessels gone
ashore bows on.

Hero we are at length at the Chapel Beach,
and there is the Chapel. Is it not truly named ?
Like the ruin of some ancient temple, whose
roof still rests on a few crumbling columns and
is overgrown with trees, carrying its date far
into the dim past. The Indians locate a Mani-
tou in the Chapel, and another in the Grand
Portal.

Did you ever build a birch hut in the wilder-
ness? No. Well, look on, and see how it is
done. Cut a few poles for the frame, and stick
them firmly into the sand, and tie them to-
gether at the top to form the apex of the roof.
Roof! why, it will be all roof and floor like a
garret. Now peel birch bark in as broad i)ieces
as you can, and get the iimer bark of the cedar
for strings, and tie the birch bark pieces on the
jioles, overlapping to shed the rain. Drive
stakes deep into the sand and tie poles over all
to anchor against the wind. Make a door, and
your hotel is complete. Of course the fire is
outside.

See, our friend the Indian is quietly making
a fire to boil coffee. Ilow expert these red
men are in woodcraft ! He strij)])ed two jjieces
of bark to my one ; and did you see how skill-
fidly he doubled up the coriics of one large
piece which he is now using as a pail to bring
water from the. spring? Birch bark becomes
flexible by warming, and may be bent without
l)reaking. " I wonder if his birch would lie as
safe in a high wind as your boat, Lcmin ?"
Tiie idea that any craft could be comjjared
with his boat for an instant so dumbfouiuled
Lemm that ho stalked silently away, only giv-
ing us a pitying look for answer.

Hurrah! now for work! " Come, Doxtatcr,
while Lemm is busy catching some trout for
dinner or supper, as we luijjpen to want it, let
us cruise along the rocks ; and first we will visit
the Cliapel. But I say, Lemm, did you ever
notice the resemblance to a lion's head in the
rock at the top of the Cliapel ?"

G88

IIAHl'KRS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINK.

"Yes, sccius as if he -vviis lying down nnd
tiikiujr ii '[iiic't lo.ok at tlie lake. I c(miK1 show
ynu many anotlier animal and li>;ui'e anionic the
rocks. Always lindinj; new ones." Where is
my nieasuiinK tajie ? Feet and int-hes take the
romance out of it, do you nay? I iinaj;ine that
my friend the Indian felt inofc than he could
|iut into words, uidess volumes were condensed
into the single emotional ejaculation which hurst
fiom his very soul a:i he stood in the dome of
I he ('ha])el — a space large enough for sever-
al hundred ]ieo])le to iissendile, with a ruinous
lloor, hut a very solid roof; a sini^le mass of
s.ui Istone one hmidred and ninety hy sixty feet,
suii])orted liy the clill'on the east side and rear,
and by several columnar masses on the front
and west sides. The " jiuljiit" is formed by one
of these columns which has been worn away to
.•I height of only three feet above the iloor, ami is
six feet across a level to]>. One column stands
detached, and ten feet west of tiie main structure.
The iicight is eighty feet fro!?i tiie water to tlie to]).
Viewed from either side, but more cs])ecially from
the east, the impression received is tliat it re-
sembles the ruin of some vast church. Those

immense columns nt Abou Siinbcl, on the Nile,
are more artistical, but not more sublime. IJe-
ing the work of men's hands gives iuijortance
to the Egy])tian ruin, and being the handiwork
of the Sujjrenie Architect cmiobles the Ameri-
can Chapel. There are but few stains of color
about the Chajicl, aiul these yellow and biown,
and only on the lower strata. IJeantifid niosse>
and lichens cover the sides ami roof, in some
l)laces conc'cnling the stone. You can dinib
up the clirt'by the waterfall and enter the Chajiel
by the rear, Imt if you have a boat the best way
is to land on tlic locks at the IVont, where are
very regular siejis in the sinulstone, it having
crund)U'd away leaving ]ilatcs varying from a
few inches to several feet in tiiickness, each re-
ceding behind the last, forming a natural stair-
way u]) to the main rooms. Tiio Storm King
is janitor here, clearing the temjile walls and
lloor by his wiiul and waves. There are holes
in the rock at the level of the water, some ex-
tending ten feet or so into tiie ditV, and three or
four feet wide at the outside, which, when there
is a high sea, receive a, rushing Mave and sjiout
back the water and spray for a hundred feet,

1 .'■

OUAl-EI. UEAOU AND UUT.

THE PICTURED ROCKS OF LAKE SUrERIOR.

689

Tin: CASCAKE.

with a rour like cannon at a distance. In a
storm a llioiisanil of tiiese iiolcs keci> up a con-
tinual roar as of artiliorv in a l)attL>.

One of the clitl's is made memorable I)y the
wreck of the steamer Sn/n'rior in 1S.")7, whose
timbers and machinery is still to be seen, when
tlie water is calm, at abont twelve to fifteen feet
depth. Lcmm has fished up many pieces of
iron, and is still hovering around it. The steam-
er broke its rudder and drifted ashore here in a
storm, and the water lieing shallow soon pounded
the hull to pieces on the solid rock bottom ; and
there was no landing possible, the cliff being
nearly two hundred feet high and overleaning
the water. Half a mile east of this ])lace is the
largest cascade of the rocks, a sheet about thirty
feet wide falling clear down one hundred ami
seventy-five feet into the lake. The overhang
of the cliff makes a space of tnenty or thirty
feet between the sheet and the rocks, where you
can row in your boat if you are willing to take
a shower-bath. There are several headlands
visible in one view from near the Cascade, and
the colors are bright and varied. All along the
rocks cast to west they arc crowned with trees,
mostly evergreens; here and there nn oak or
birch. As the rocks crumble away, or are split
off by the elements, the trees arc undermined,
lean over the verge, and finally tumble into the
lake. Sometimes an avalanche of rock goes
down in a compact mass with tlic trees stand-
ing unharmed. Such an event has made a
rocky island, covered with foliage, near th^'
Sail Hock. The rock thus left bare shows its
natural color, which is yellow, or golden brown.

varying in the different strata; soiiie light, oili-
crs dark, nearly l)unu'(l sienna tint, and others
warm brown or dull orange. A few yciirs cov-
er- the bared rock with lichens and stains mii-
form with the older sinface.

Beyond the Cascade eastward the next jilaci'
of interest is the Grand Anijihithcatre. This is
the largest of the coticavc swce])s of clilf line,
and is a disjilay of form and color surpassing any
other locality in attractiveness, except, of course,
the ( 'ha]iel and Great Door. The cliff is near-
ly two hundred feet high, overhangs fifteen to
fifty feet, wet with the drain of s])rings in the
soil above or from the rains ; and colored with
the greatest variety of form and hue. In the
view engraved some of these stains are re])re-
sented as far as black lines are ca])able of doing
this. Near the centre of the view there is n
heap of rocks recently fallen, last spring proba-
bly, for the cliff above shows the clean bright
color of the sandstone. Each side of this bare
s])ot the color is strong and varied as usual.
The upper strata, about fifty feet thick, are
grayer, and lie in thin slabs or jilates, and are
less stained than those below. The next under
them arc colored yellow and brown and russet
in confused patches ; and below these again aj)-
pear the blue and white and green tints. Some
stripes are as white as chalk, others verdigris
green, or pale blue, changing gradually as it
goes down the rock to green, and finally dark-
brown or black. The source of the color seems
to l)e in mineral oxyds carried over the rock l)y
water, besides the usual lichens and crystallixa-
tions. There is a stratum of gravel loosely ce-

r.oo

HARPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.

li I

merited by sand and clay, var}-ing from two feet
thick at the Castle to thirty at the Great Door,
and twenty at the Amphitheatre. Most of the
strata appear to be thicker at the Great Uoor,
and the cliff is generally elevated fifty to seven-
ty-five feet above the height at five miles' dis-
tance each way from that centre. The scene
was sketched from the toj) of a pile of sand-
stones recently fallen, very similar to that shown
in the d", ta-nce, and where the water from the
cliff overhead dripped thirty feet beyond me,
affording a cool shade in a hot July day. Per-
haps it would be well to say now before I forget
it, that in all that trip, except a few hours in
the middle of the day, it was very comfortable
in a good thick coat and gloves, and morning
or evening an over-coat was quite indispensable,
while a good blazing fire was desirable, besides
being useful for making coffee. The winds
are very cold, and when they come over the
lake sweep away mosquitoes, gnats, sand-flies,
midges, and all the other torments of sultry
days, and give you a good night's sleep in
peace.

It was our constant amusement to look for
shapes among the forms and colors on the cliffs
and name them. One would discover a resem-
blance to a group of horses of various colors,
and another see a long procession of boys carry-
ing fish ; and of women with expansive skirts,
and parasols as large as cavalry tents. Here

were elephants groujjcd with serpents a hundred
feet long, seeming to come up out of the water.
There a city dimly pictured, with roofs, fowers,
and spires. There is really no end to this
amusement but your own inclination to indulge
in it. It was amusing as well as curious to no-
tice the different impressions that the same
groups produced on different persons. While
the pale faces saw only such objects as were fa-
miliar to their common experience, the red man
saw the shadows of the past ; the history of
his race rei)roduced, written by the Almighty.
Where the waves and current make a beach of
the sand the gravel from the stratum spoken of
is washed quite clean, and among the pebbles
are found many fine ones in color and form ;
agates, jasper, and carnelians. One agate owned
by Peter White, of Marquette, and set in a
breast-pin, has thirteen hundred lines of differ-
ing colors in an inch. We brought home a few
pieces of rock and some of the pebbles ; the
rock very soon fell into sand, and the pebbles
are now our only reminiscence of the rocks, ex-
cept a wide jiiece of silver birch bark, which
was cut near the beaver pond back of Chapel
Beach, and the deer-skin which was got in the
midst of tribulation.

One evening Lemm said the waves would
run too high next day for us to make any at-
tempt at a cruise, and he proposed a tramp in
the woods, visiting the beaver ponds, and if we

TUK AM<*Mt'rUKATRK.

Inn
cci
I'ra

of I

•he
vol I

"'J'

■M'n
ami

\or

THE riCTUKED HOCKS OF LAKE SUPERIOR.

691

a hundred
the water.
fs, towers,
id to this
to indulge
10U8 to no-
the same
s. While
IS were fa-
10 red man
history of
Almighty,
a beach of
1 spoken of
lie pebbles
and form ;
,gate owned
d set in a
es of differ-
home a few
ibbles ; the
the pebbles
e rocks, ex-
bark, which
k of Chapel
.s got in the

raves would
lake any at-
[ a tramp in
Is, and if we

started early we would be likely to see the
beaver at play and perhaps get a crack at a
deer. Deer tracks had been seen several morn-
ings on the sand not far from our hut, which
encouraged us, and the trip was arranged. So
before it was fairly light we were all away, creep-
ing silently as possible toward the ponds. The
beaver-dam is a hundred rods long, very strong,
and floods housands of acres, forming two
fionds, besides wide marshes, where lilies grow,
making feeding-places for deer. High hopes
and feverish excitement ruled that morning,
and we tried to move through the woods very
silently, and it must be that we did, for Dox
said he could only hear us half a mile.

After some hunting about we found the very
best spot imaginable for a look-out — on a high
bank overlooking the island where the beaver-
houses are built in the lower pond. There were
several beavers busy running about, at work or
play, and old ami young were very lively. We
wondered if some showman would not like to
transport that island, with its tenants so full
of graceful motion and playful habits, to New
York or its vicinity. The First National Bea-
ver-Dam Sample-Room would be the popular
resort. We could have enjoyed the scene for
hours, and not oven Lcmm's desire to get a
crack at a deer would have moved us ; but just
as we were whispering our debates a sliding
l)lungo into the water under the b.mk where
wo lay attracted our attention. Dox said it
was a beaver who had been watching us, and
had now gone to give the alarm. Sure enough,
in a few moments all the islanders were invisi-
ble, and after waiting for a little while wo con-
cluded that the curtain was dropped on the
show, and left for the upper pond, Vherc we
arrived about sunrise.

Lemm went direct to the raft ho had used
on a previous visit, the year before, and ho and |
I got alioard, wliile Dox preferred to walk along |
the slioro. We had hardly (slioved otf before I
we heard a splasliing and snorting the other j
side of a clump of trees, on a littlo i)oint of |
land, and Lemm was frantic to get out far !
enough to get a sight of the deer. In our haste
we broke tlie rotten withes tliat bound tlie raft
together, and the lilies and grass pulled the
logs apart, spilling us into two feet of water,
with a very oozy and uncertain bottom. This
liuniilintiou was very rapidly taking tho con-
v.Qxt out of two would-be doer-slayers, when the
crack of Dox's rifle was heard toward tho head
of the jiond, and that finished the business for
♦hem. Lenim's I'lico grew very pale and his
voice tragically husky as ho said, with a groan,
"Tlieio! Dox has scared them otl'l I was
afraid ho would." Wo wnded back to land,
and on coming up with Dox found him loading
his gun.

"Scared 'em off?' suggested Loinni.

"Yes," said Dox; "scared one."

Ami sure enough, there he lay, in tho edge
of tho marsh. Lemm referred to tho raft in
very classic English, of tho heroic sdiool. How-

ever, venison, roasted or fried in the wilderness,
is an excellent remed" for wounded feelings.
And we roasted and ate and chatted, recount-
ing former exploits, and so whiled away the
rest of that day, drying our clothes by the fire,
and Avhen weary with wagging our tongues, late
in the night, arranged ourselves to sleep.
Cowper says, in tho "Sofa:"

"But comes at last the dull and dusky eve,
And sends thee to thy cabin, well prepared
To dream all night of what the day denied."

And he has hit it exactly, except that we had
no dull, although several dusky evenings ; ami
that last line touched our case exactly. Anil
another fine old English poet, Holty, says :

"Happy the man who has the town escaped!
To him the whistling trees, the murmuring brooks,
The shining: pebbles, preach
Virtue's and wisdom's lore."

Splendid lines ! With what pleasure can one
recall the dulcet strains of the rural poets when
in tb.' wilderness. I think it is in the opening
of tho " Time-Piece" where Cowper says :

"Oh for a lodge in some vast wilderness.
Some boundless contiguity of shade !"

expecting to find there relief from certain ills
which civilized men fall heirs to. . But who
shall sing the joys of sleeping in the woods, or
on the Chapel Beach ?

Lemm said, one night, soon after we had
sandwiched ourselves for sleep, that he knew
there was a rat or mouse, or something of that
ki'.id, crawling over his legs, and proposed a
hunt. Dox and I got pine knots lighted and
looked all through the hemlock and pine carpet
in the hut, but no living thing was to be ibund
except tho aroused Lemm ; and again we court-
ed sleep. Early next morning he said he had
felt it again, whatever it was, several times
during tho night. Dox was out at the fire,
heaping on wood and getting coti'ce-water hot,
when he called to us to come out and help catch
a snake. T'.iiS was the disturber of Leram's
slumbers — must have been, for Dox saw it
crawling out from that side of the tent where
Lemm slept. It was a beauty, and three feet
long.

"How do j'ou like that sort of bed-fellow,
Lemm ?"

"Ho! that's nothing. Find pne under your
head some morning, as I have, and a moccasin
to boot."

I wonder if it is not within the possibilities
of chemical science to com])oimd an unguent
l)rotection against flies, mosquitoes, and xnmt
especially midges and sand-flies. It would bo
u i'onstant companion in all ccunitry excursions.
Even Long Branch or Coney Island would be
more peaceful, esj)ecially if the article had an
appro]n'iate name and agreeable ])erfume. Some
one has -recommended crude i)etroleuni, but it
is an open question whether the remedy is not
worse than the evil. Sleej)ing in tho woods
gives one such u keen appetite. No matter
what is prepared to eat that is only wholesome;

1 '

(592

HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.

'■
1^

INTEIUOn OV OttANU I'OKTAL.

and you nro hungry ngain so soon that the days
seem to stretch out very needlessly.

The beauties of nil lauds are didl and com-
monjilaco to the inhabitants thereof, however
much they may be prized by strangers. And
the Pictured Rocks are no excejjtion to the
rule. "High and rough and stained, and rath-
er curious ; still, nothing but rock, after all.
Can't see why people come all the way from
New York to sec nothing but stones. Curious,
m.iybe ; but we can see 'em any time when
we've nothing else to do. Good place to fish
— for some kinds. Wiioro the streams run in,
and near the cascades, you are sure to get brook-
trout, very fine flavor ; and since the steamer
was wrecked something can be made fishing u])
old iron ; but no one hereabouts ever feels like
wasting time just to look at the rocks. As for
tiie jiicturs, every one has a notion of their own
al)out them. No two sees 'cm alike."

Now for a trip to the Grand Portal. Lemni
says he just as lieve go and try his luck at the
wrc<'k, fishing for old iron, and bo biuik about
sundown ; so I)ox and I go in the birdi. Mod-
estly we enter by the side o])ening of the cave,
and while the sketch is in i)rogre8H, from the

fallen rocks at the back, Dox in the birch goes
along the walls, jjcejnng in and out, exjjloring
for pcl)l)les and si)ecimens of rock and lichens
and crystallizatiims.

Inmgine yourself in a room four liundred feet
long, by one huiulred and eighty wide, and one
hundred and fifty to two huiulred feet high to
the arched roof, built of yellow sandstone,
seamed with decay and dripjiing with water.
Shout, ami your voice is multi]>lied a hundred-
fold by echoes that reverberate several seconds,
sharp, metallic. Here the stratum of gravel is
devateil about fifty feet, while at the Castle it
is nearly down to the water-level, and at tlie
Aniphitlieatre is about twenty feet id)ovc. The
waters are undermining the foundations, and
wearing holes every where in the suiijiort of the
walls and roof, and in s(mie day — how far into
the future it is impossil)le to guess — the sand-
stone will bo entirely cut through, and the im-
mense roof come down into the waves, to be
carried away in sand to make wider the Chapel
Reach, or perhajis increase the Grand Sable,
The water in the cave increases in depth as you
go out toward the lake, from the bare rocks of
the back end to about fifty feet at the o])ciiiiig,

^®Es5"

■if

THE riCTURED ROCKS OF Lx\KE SUI'EKIOU.

093

and a few rods from the shore it is a hundred !
feet or more. The water is much deeper near I
the rocks at the Great Door, and a mile or two j
each way, than at any other place along the i
shore. Tlie ciitf on the west, next to the Grand
Portal, is hollowing out, forming an immense '
cave, increasing yearly, being ^nuch larger now i
than it was a year ago. Then we visited it |
with two photographers from Chicago, and we ■
had one of their views »vith us as a record. Great I
blocks had fallen and enormous cavities formed
whi^re last year it was apparently solid rock,
stained with the accumidation of years. This
change impressed us with a feeling of great in-
security, which increased so much that we
hastened to finish our sketcli and remove to
some more secure position less in danger of
being ground to powder.

Dox said he had no doubt we could bring
down a rock from the roof inside by firing a
pistol ; so we paddled to the mouth and fired
i)ack into the cave. Either our gun was too
small, or the rock was not ready to respond and
come down, for fhe only I'esujt was some very
sonorous echoes which set the flocks of gulls to
whirling and screaming, some coming very near
and looking fiercely at us as they sailed swiftly
by, as much as to say, " Clear out, you meddle-
some chajjs, and stop trying to disturb our an-
cient nesting-i)l:ice!"

Again we paddled into the groat cave, and
looked along its walls, and followed the flowing
waves and the accom|):inying reflections chasing
(!ach other up the sides and dancing in the roof.
It is beyond the ])ower of the pencil to re])re-
siMit the eifoct of the reflected light in the roof
as seen from the rear. Es])ecially Avhen the
sun is tow.'in' the west the bright light is reflect-
ed back from the waves into the cavern, and
undulates like a sea of light overhead 5 a pic-
ture in living colors, so tender, so quiet — hnnin-
<ms, pearly grays, l)right flashes, cool high lights,
all warmed by the yellow sandstone, drijijiitig
with water, on wliicli the effect is thrown. We
tried rtriug the pistol agiin at the rear, but
with no other result than a series of deafening
eclioes. This would be an awful place in a
storm. There is no rock on which you could
climb more than six or ten feet above calm wa-
ter-level, and waves conilMg in with a high winil
womM w.ish the rocks for a hundred feet in
height; and no one could jios'ibly live a single
day, much less during a storm of a week.

The fishermen inulerstand the trenclierous
n.iture of the storms on liiike Su|ierior, and are
generally jjrovided for the weather by carrying
several days' provision when going even a t'tw
miles from home. The unlorfunate num, if
trapped on one of the beaches, where he could
cscajie into the wilderness in the rear, could, by
makitig a long circuit, avoiding the hays and
creeks, (lossibly find his way to the shore op] o-
site Grand Island, at Munising. If he losl his
way — not at all ini])robalile in a storm — his only
salvation woidd be his gini, and the possibility
of reaching Manjuette, Escanaba, or some lum-

ber settlenent on Green Bay, a good hundred-
mile tramp.

Our last glimpse of the Grand Portal was
near sunset one day after rain, when the rays
of the sun lit up the yellow sandstone with a
glory that melted the shining mass into bur-
nished gold.

" Lemm, how far will we have to row to get
to the Grand Sable ?"

" Wa'al, about ten or fifteen miles to see the
high banks; and you'd better be keerful of the
weather, for it won't do to be caught there in a
storm. No such thing as landing a boat in any
safe place."

" Well, Dox, as our provision-chest has near-
ly given out, and Lemm will have to go home
for a new sui)i)ly, let us take two or three days'
rations, and manage to meet him on his return
to the Chapel Beach."

The rations we took were ten biscuits, about
three pounds of maple-sugar, and a cooked
trout of two pounds' weight. The stay at the
rocks had been much longer than was calculated
npon, iitid therefore the short allowance. Lcnnu
thought he could return by the next day noon,
certain, aiul away he ]iullcd. Dox and I set
out in the birch for new explorations. 'Wf
passed the Cascade, the Wreck Cliff, Amphi-
theatre, Cliff of Tombs, End of Kocks, and then
five miles along the Sable. Ocean saiuls are an
index of infinity — a ty]^e ; the desert also is a
type, with its limitless expanse of sand. What
shall we say of these mountains of sand ? 'J'wn
hundred to three Inmdred feet elevated against
the sky, clothed with a forest; forever crum-
bling, changing, water-worn, wiml-fosscd, rest-
less sands. We found a point where several
large trees, fallen from the toji, had been wa.-licd
together in a heap by the storm, ami packed
solid by the sands around them, made a land-
ing, llerc we i)ulled ii]) our canoe and rested.
An nttem])t to clindi uj) the baidi was almost
reckless, but at it we went, ami after two hours
of Kintinual climbing sticceeded in reaching the
to]). The sand was very dry and mealy, rolling
under our feet, and seriously retarding our jiro-
gress. I have been in the crater of vElmi and
climbed the Pyramids of Ghizeh, but, if both
could be combined, the ashes of the one and
the steep of the other woidd not be a more
difficult ascent than the Grand Sable.

The f(uest is pine, hemlock, siirure, birch,
and cedar, with a very few oaks and inajileH.
As you go back from the shore hard wood be-
comes nu)re abundant. We dared not gc tiir
away, as it was said that in an hour or two a
storm might burst on us, which might can.\
off our cano(! fV(un its landing or prevent our
return to the Chapel Beach. We spent some
little time hunting for stones to roll down the
sands into the lake, but niuio wert3 to be found ;
so we tugged at a half-decayeil log and an old
stump, ami sent them lunibliiig down, bound-
ing frcan heap to hea]), with a final |<lnnge into
the water, sending the spray flying about like
the big ruff around Queen Elizabeth's neck in

6'.)i

HARFER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.

lUU UKANI) BAULE.

the authorized version of her portvnit. The
climnte on the Siihle is much ^vivrnier than on
the rocks. It is hot. July asserts his usual
prerogative tliere, and log-rollin};; is more like
work than fun. One old pine that was some
three feet diameter, standing on the very edge,
with roots hanging in the air, readiing fur
down the retreating sands, tempted us to work
at undermining it, so we might enjoy the event
of its miglity plunge. Two hours very hard
work with poles, clearing away sand and turf,
and with hatchet chopping off roots on the up-
per side, at length rewarded us, when the im-
mense tree howed to "orce of circumstances
and went down, its l)ranchcs singing a death-
song as they whizzed through the air; luit, as
if struggling against its fate, the great mass
jijowed so deep into the sand as to lodge itself
just ;is it reached the water, only Just dij)ping
tiie top fifty feet or so under the waves.

Wc wore too tired for any more experiments,
and debated whether to try to return to Chapel
Beach or stay nt the Sable all night. Dox
voted to stay ; and as the fifteen miles of pad-
dling, with a red sunset and prospect of wind
fnun the northwest, just the direction to blow

tis ashore, was on his side of the question, it
was decided to sleep where we were. Tho ca-
noe being carried up the sand fifty feet or so,
and well tied to some stakes driven in below
it, we made a nest for ourselves of pine and
hemlock boughs, well covered over, as a i)recau-
tion against rain or wind.

We lay alongside an innncnse fallen tree,
and all night I dreamed of rolling down the
Sable into the lake, and started up out of fiifid
slumbers only to find Dox sleciiing very (|uiet-
ly, and to look at the stars, and again to sleep
and dream. We hurried back to the dhapel
Beach, arriving near sunset the next day, and
found Lemm had brought an addition to our
party, whom we will call Frederick Wilson,
Esquire.

"So you are the nrtistical gentleman that
Mr. I'eter White, of Marquette, told me Mas
down nt the rocks? You know I'eler White,
cashier of the First National Hank — he knows
you. Says you drew off the entire rocks for
! him last year, in an album style, very large
size, in water-colors, and I have come down
to learn the art. Can stay n week or ten davs :

not longer than ten, us I have engagements in

THE PICTURED ROCKS OF LAKE SUPERIOR.

695

F. WILSON, ESQ,

Milwaukee thnf will takn me away then. Mr.
White says you know how to finish up photo-
graphs also in water-colors, find j'ou Rot a high
price for some of them. Besides, I would like
very much to take a few lessons in landscape
painting in oils ; and I wish you to understand
that the cost will make no diflerence at all to
me. All I want is the tricks and the dodges
of colors and so on, and any reasonahle price is
ready. "

"My dear Sir," said I, when I could catch
my breath, " I have found, after twenty years'
a])plication to art, that, after learning a few
technicalities, progress in art is the result of
accum\datcd knowledge and information con-
cerning the su))jects you are to represent ; and
your .success will he very nearly in a ratio to
the sum of what you know, and your ability to
represent what you know in your materials, so
that others may understand you, and think and
feel with you. Then, if you have the genius to
think and feel rightly, and use the best means
of representation, you may hope to become an
artist if you work hard several years."

"Hut all I want to know is how you sketch
'em oif — ijust the slight way you make those so
much admired water-color sketches that yo<i
<lo in an hour or two. And I say again I don't
care what it costs."

Again, choking down a disposition to mis-
ii^o my mother tongue, I rejilicd :

"To be able to sketch well is like ripe fruit
on the tree — there is a long life of art study and
practice between l)cginning and sketching. I
coidd not undertake to teach any thing of real
\'uliie to you in less than a year."

F. VV. again, blatant : " F sec advertisements
nearly every day of those who will tench in ten
jr twelve lessons the whole art in oil and water-

colors, landscajJC figures and photographs. I
think there must be some prejudice you have
got against me, or you would Ist me into your
secret. "

If this individual had appeared to me in my
studio I could have taken my hat and left, or
quietly shown him the door ; but there was no
leaving the be.ich nor kicking him otf, so it be-
came a necessity to bear with his im])ortunities
to be "let into the secret for any reasonable
price" for nearly a week. He cut my stay short
many days. Flies, mosquitoes, snakes, rain,
hunger, and thirst, the dangers of the waves,
were all swallowed uj) in this one great visita-
tion. I could only revenge myself by sketch-
ing him as he would sit on our wash-tub table,
hour after hour, looking over my sketclies, with
polished hat perched on three hairs, cigar in
position, lost in wonder and admiration, and
burning with desire to be "let in." It is a
standing wonder that any mortal can be so un-
informed on art matters. Naturalists sjjcnd a
whole lifetime, with the most brilliant talents,
acquiring a sut?^cicnt knowledge of their science
to enable them to distinguisli, and name, and
classify animated nature, and tlie most capable
men have added the ex])cricnce of their most
valuable lives in perfecting the metliods of
study ; and botanists, and geologists, and men
in every profession and trade, and every walk
of life, find the years too fleeting and few for a
perfect mastery of the things brought into their
special notice. Even a house carpenter is con-
tented to serve a term of years at the trade ;
but here is a man whose lofty conceit and
profound ignorance drive him tVaniic because
a poor artist will not undertake to "let him
into" Nature's world of infinite mysteries in a
week.

As a sheet-anchor in this sea of trouble Dox,
my Indian friend, whiled away many an hour
of twilight or foggy morning with liis violin,
on which he is an excellent performer. Old
Oneida knows the power of his bow, when with
my uncle as second he went from dance to
dance the county rjound. Sometimes niy flute
took up a tune which we both happened to

Mil, WILLIAMS,

696

HAItPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.

DOXTATEB.

know, and we together waked melodious echoes
in the neighijoring dilfs. Leiiini too was not
always blowing about his gini ; he now and
then varied his tale l)y his ex])loits by land and
water, near and far, and with n toiieh of plain
history, aecidenially dropped, coneernnig the
earlier and later diys on the island, made
him, all in all, a very social, companionable
man.

We were not favored with a breeze on our
return to Grand Island, and having to i)addle
the wliole way, Dox anil I toolc to the canoe,
leaving Lemni to bring E. W., Esq., with the
other battgage.

At Jlr. Williams's house we found a gentle-
m:\n from Detroit in the last stages of consiim])-
tion, so. his friends kindly saiil, (piite unable to
enjoy himself or any body else. He seemed
glad of the op])ortimity of gelling to Manpiette
with ns, and we comited him one with f)ur i)ar-
ty. ^Ir. Williams, among oilier interesting
traits, jio-^sessed a firm belief in the curative
powers of certain Spiritualist doctors. He gave
us an account of his exiierieiice with several.
He never was sick in his life — always been
strong and hearty ; but some of his children had
been sickly, and one daughter had died lately
of consiini]ition. Siniie years since, when she
began to fail and he felt alarme<l for her, some
one, recommended her to visit a medicinal
spring. Her letters from there during the first
lew weeks were encouraging, but afterward she
failed so rajiidly that he had to go and bring
her home on a bed. Then a Spiritualist doc-
tor was recommended, and as soon as she was
able she went there. Again she improved for
a few days, and then again rapidly declined.
Another doctor, a trance medium, now discov-
ered that all had gone wrong so far, and took
chiirge of the ease. Progress of jiatieut up and
down again as before. About this time he re-
ceived letters from New York from a healing
medium, who announced (as if it was a revela-
tion) that he understood that a Mr. Williams,
living, etc., etc., lind a daughter most grievous-
ly nrtlicted, etc., and otl'ered to restore her to

youth and health in a marveloiisly short time,
either at her own home or at his, in the cilv —
which latter would be much more desiralile,
being under his immediate and )iersonal in-
sjieetion. And so on, all this time jiaying verv
heavy bills inito the end. But why does Mr.
Jones believe in Mr. Williams's siiiritiial doc-
tors? Because he only succeeded in finding a
real, true, faithful healing medium, just before
his daughter died, who could have cured her
I if he had been called in the first i)hice, but only
knew of the case when it was too late ; so into
j the hands of this last nioft merciful and kind
trance and healing medium was Jlr. J. anxioes
to ];lacc himself.

Mr. Williams's eldest son jiroposcd to take
us to Marquette in the large sail-boat, as he had
a lot of white-fish and trout ready for market ;
and Ave therefore made np a jiarty, incliuling
Jones and ¥. W., Lemm and Bully, ^^■illiams
Junic.'-. Pox, and I.

I Bully was son-in-law of an old Chippewa

' Ch.ief (who was said to be over a hundred years

old), and had been a mail carrier during the

j winter, when navigation was closed, for several

years ; making the journey to Detroit from

Marquette in about two weeks, sleeping on the

' snow, wading ra])id streams — an "xeeeding pcr-

I ilous task. He dressed just as he could catch

; it, in clothes new or second-hanil, in style or

'out, military or civil, fits or not; and was a

! good-hearted fellow at all times. What his

I other name was besides Bully we did not learn,

I nor what he was Bully for; but guessed he was

j considered bully for whisky, as he earned some

such title on our way up.

Williams Junior said we had better land

on a little island just outside the entrance on

the east of Grand Island Harbor, and visit the

cave there. He described it as a most curious

: ]ilacc, full of coliinms, rooms, jiassages up and

down, altogether a fairy-like and strange cave.

' The party seeming inclined to see the sights, we

' landed, and drank the hei'lth of whatever god

' was dwelling there at the time, and sailed away

again. The wind played a fast-and-loose game

with onr sails, and teased us along a mile or s(i

I*-

' IIUI.I.Y."

T'lere joined „.s for V h„ '"'^ '"'"^-

^^' garden and .stahJe Z ' '" " '^""S ''°".se
'o«In and who seem,.,) i ,'?'/°"s "'kI nk,, .,n,l

tracts n ^ '^ "•'' J" sxc-J, bwir '""''"er „„d
liis as T'"'"''^'^ '"'^fo'y of "'"", ''•^''f «-

'""" im-,"! r- »»<i «.= lit" v,"°" ''"

______^ *■'"' not coughing^

^AST DAYS.

••--• lur rears — "c nuy ^

<^"ANGE.' Change;
■Another lea/' ;» f
^"" '"'^k into ,he ohl ;„d .

^"' «f *''« quiet .yay,,

,/'"" ''- ,voHd, ,;,,,j ,.„^,.

^^ e go forth in fi,„

^'^"t death!

Wodo„otc.nliit.,„.
^«t scarcely more with dv ,

^-'^' we forego •'"' '"""'

'^ •; 7-"" unseen ,i„e,
^:^;"''- "-'.or .one,

DAYS.

I^ot one,
, """ "• '"'!■ wort ,„s„„

«... ;r,r "" ""'■' '• -»"■■

The Inst!

^-'iooksaretenderest,
^';;"-Uightisonthopa«t.

;'"-^": '"-'««<! and sweet-

^'"^ «'d life's fniresf n .

No ..n„ J w-reat 1—

(598

IIAliPEll'S NEW 5I0XTIILY MAGAZINE.

\ -

THE IMrENDlNG CHEC'I-MATE.

Mv little love, do you remember,

Ere we were grown so mully wise,
Those eveniufjH iu the bleak December,
Oiirtnined warm from the Buowy weather,
When you and I played ehesH together,
Check-mated by each other's eyesf
Ah '. Btill I Bce your soft white hand
Hovering warm o'er Queen and Knight.
Drave Pawns In valiant battle stand:
Tlie double Castles guard the wings:
The Uishop, bent on distant things.
Moves, sidling, through the light.
Our Angers touch; our glances meet,
And falter; fall? your golden hair
Against my cheek ; your bosom f^weet
Is heaving. Down the tleld your Queen

Rides slow her soldiery all between.

And checks me unaware.

Ah me ! the little battle's done,
Dispersed is all its chivalry ;
Full many a move since then have we
'Mid Life's perplexing chequers niiule,
And many a game with Fortune played—

What is it we have wonf

Tills, this at least>-if this alone:
That never, never, never more,
As in those old, still nights of yore

(Ere we were grown so sadly wise)

Can you and t shut out the skies, ,
Shut out tlie world and wintry weather.

And, eyes exchanging warmth with eyes,
Play chess, as then wc jjlayed, together 1