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The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes ou les planches trop grandes pour §tre reproduites en un seul cliche sont filmSes d partir de Tangle sup6rieure gauche, de gauche d droite et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Le diagramme suivant illustre la m6thode : 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 B'/g P^^l^i^l SCENES IM HAWAII. rm^W TF^ftNlrg. / SCENES IN HAWAII OR IIFE I^THE S/NDf ICH ISLA^S BY M. FORSYTH GRANT. TORONTO: HART & CDMPi^NY, 31 & 33 KING ST., Wl'ST. J 8 88. -^ rrNT I y~s Entered aecordini,' to Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year of our Lord one thousand eif>ht hundred and eighty-eight, hy Hart & Comi>any, in the otfice of the Minister of Agriculture. ^smf^^^mmmmmm^ To My Husband, TVF .m %r PRKFACE. As I have been induced by kind friends to ^ive publicity in this form to my notes and observations while on my journey to Hawaii and stay^ there, I must ask them and others who may care to read them, to be lenient in criticism, and to remem- ber my only wish is to interest by telling them a little-of this small Kingdom in the Pacific, generally known only as the most encouraging exemplification of the noble efforts of inissionaries to civilize and christianize a savage and voluptuous race. Alas, for this, the finest example of self-sacrificing men and women, for the boast is, sad to say only a boast ; and alas, as the group of Islands which Captain Cook discovered in 1776 — and on one of which, Hawaii — he was murdered on his second visit in 1778, at Kealakekua Bay. On Captain Cook's first visit his large ships and cannon so worked on the natives superstitious minds that they regarded him as a god, he and iiis crews were given everything they desired. On his visit in 1778, being struck by a stone or spear, he gave a cry of pain which not agreeing with the native idcci X. PKKFACE. of a god, they immediately murdered him. The spot is marked by a i,Tanite monument brought by a man-of-war from Enijland. The Ha\va''-''\ K'v-u'dudi fc.. ir.eily knoVvn "as the Sandvvi. 11 Ishmd:;: 't^'-'^s bft-n-ei/iTlhe 2ath and 22nd dei^rees of latitude, a gn ip -^jf seven inhabited Islands, viz : — Oahu, on which is flonolulu, the Capital and seat of Government; Hawaii, the largest, on which are active the Volcanoes ; Maui, Lanai, Kauai, Nihau, and Molokai, on which is the leper settlement. It is now of some importance from its position, owing to the anxiety of many nations to possess it as a strong strategetical point, and their consequent jealousies. It is about 2000 miles from San Francisco, and 4000 from Aukland. in the direct route to Australia from North America. Its independence was guaranteed in 1847 by Eng- land and France, and the year following the United States joined them ; as two of these nations regard treaties as binding, the Hawaiian Kingdom is likely to retain its independence, unless war in Europe overthrows the balance of Power, or to the time Seward thought of when he said " The Pacific Ocean is destined to become the theatre of the world's greatest events." 4N^P^^^ 4I^Ww ' ^» TREFACE, XI. The cable between British Cohimbia and Aus- tv'Ha, for which soundings are now being made, Will bring into notice Honolulu, near which is to be a landing station for the cable; or, perhaps, a rise in sugar may again make prominent her fertile lands. The Government is carried on by King, Lords and Commons — Lords and Commons meeting and voting together in one Legislative Hall with a Cabinet of five to advise His Majesty— His Majesty had the power, by the Constitution, o( vetoing any Bills his faithful Commons sent him, lately much curtailed. When I was in Hawaii the King practically controlled all measures or rather the power behind the throne, for the King, though well educated and intelligent, was credited with the Hawaiian trait of extreme indifference to matters of importance, or matters of any kind, if they in anyway interfered with his own personal comfort. The population is about 80,000, of which the natives number some 35,000, Chinese 20,000, Portugese and Japanese 15,000, the rest British subjects, many of them Canadians ; United States subjects; German, French, Danish, Swedish and' XIl. PREFACE. li^ other nations subjects with a (gw South Sea Is- landers. The native race is fast dying out. A century ago their number was estimated at 400,000 ; this is due, without doubt to the taste for strong waters' given to them by their white friends, as well as the germs of the horrible leprosy which is now so imbued in their bloo^l that all are tainted. In the hope that these few pages which have been reprinted in part from the columns of the "Week," may amuse and interest, I venture to send forth my little book, trusting that it may give something of the pleasure to my readers, that it has given me to write it. M. F. G LiSL^Ji CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. San Francisco.— Chinese. -"The Australia."— His Hawaiian Majesty.— English cricketers - The invalid.— First glimpse of Honolulu. — Kalakua's reception. — Young swimmers. The natives.— Tax /or residents.— Royal Hotel— Mos- quitoes. — Persian Powder. — Sunday in Honolulu. Flowers.— St. Andrew's Cathedral CHAPTER H. Welcome to the King.— Procession in palace grounds.— Danc- ing girls. — Fire brigade. —Concert in opera house. Hawaiian band and Herr Berger.— Moonlight in Hono- lulu.— Expedition up the Pali.— Riding party.— Waikiki.— Luncheon party at the Kings.— Her Majesty Queen Kap- iolani.— Leis.— Old Wahine with fish.— Tabu.— Hawaiian curiosities at the palace.— Feather robes. —Kahilis.— Queen Kapiolani's gift to Queen Victoria ia CHAPTER HI. The yacht " Wanderer.'— Mr. Lamberts' invitation to Queen Emma.— Poi.— Taro patches.— Method of making poi.— Method of eating it.- Excellent food.— Poi dogs.— Taro flour. — Chinese making poi ^I XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Voyage between Honolulu and Ilanai. — Home at Rapaa. — Arrival at Kilawee. — " Wailele Hale." — Garden there. — Different Fruits. — 1" lowers. — Trees. — Variety of colour in Landscape 37 CHAPTER V. Servants ! — Chinese Family. — Mary Mahoi. — Ah Sam and his Pretty Bride. — Portugese. — Da Souza. — German Servants. Ah See and his Antics. — Chinese New Year. — " Salt Eggs." — Opium Smoking. — lling Hoi and his Music! — .Sin Fat. — Chinese Gamblers. — Theives. — Scribblings. — Decorations. — Japanese Servants 52 CHAPTER VI. Rides and drives about Kilauea. — Kalikiwai Valley. — Valley of Hanalei. — After glow of Sunset. — Swarm of Red Fish. — Death of the last of the Kainmehainahas Queen Emma. .. 71 CHAPTER VII. Volcano of Mauna Loa. — Visit to Crater and Burning Lake. — Superstition of Natives. — Like-like dies. — Superstitions about Deaths.- — Lomi-lomi. — Awa Root. — Li toxical ing Beverages. — Old Native. — Natives Riding. — Breaking Horses. — Leprosy. — Molokai. — Father Damien. — Old Leper at Kilauea 82 li CHAPTER VIII. Invitation to King Kalakua's Coronation, — Drive to Kealia and Kapaa. — The Parsonage.— Home at Lihue. — Honolulu again. — Ship in harbour. — Flowers. —Carriages. — Coron- ation Day. — Coronation Ceremonies. — Coronitiou Ball. — Queen leaving the Palace. — Coronation Fireworks. — Hookups. — Granil Luau. — The Dandy and his Dancers. — Races at Waikiki. — Unveiling of the statute of the great Kammehameha 99 n» NAlVU/g 377^T. CONTENTS. XV CHAPTER IX. Life on a Plantation. -Work in the Cane Fields.— LalKmrers. —Chinese.— Portugese. —South Sea Islanders.— Looking after the Labourers.— Hoi i(Uiys on tiie Plantations.— The Doctor's Orders.— Chinese with Sickness.— Visit of H. B. M. S. "Constance" CHAPTER X. Opening of the Legislature in Honolulu.— Ceremony.— The Debate.— The Wonderfid Literpreter.— News Flies Fast. My First and only Scorpion.— Other Lisects.- Visit to the Market.— Climate.-Amusements.— Easter Decorations.— Queen Kapiolaiii gives Teas 140 155 -!'■■ CHAPTER XI. An interesting episode.— Juhnnie. — Kea!ia House.— i'lc-nic uj) the Waialua.— Koloa.— The Judge's Home.— Mrs. Sinclair and Family. — Ideal Life. -Waimea River.— Kekaha.— Visit there.— Lepeis at Waimea.— Cane at Keknlia.— Old Kahuna. — Blue Lake at Kekaha. — Barking Sands.— Wachiava Ranche.— Burial Caves.— Hanamaula.— Home again at Kilauea. 171 I .r^.^ya^.n,u^. SCENES IN HAWAII. CHAPTER I. San Francisco. -Chinese.- -The Austraik."-His Hawaiian Majesty -English cricketers - The invalid. -First glimpse of Honolulu.— Kalakua's reception.— Young swimmers.— The natives.— Tax for residents.— Royal Hotel. -Mosquitoes .- Persian Powder. -Sunday in Honolulu.-FIowers.-St. An- drew's Cathedral. JJ[HE City of San Francisco is said to be the most cosmopolitan city in the world, and to the traveller from Northern Latitudes presents a strange mingling of elements, foreign and other- wise. Irish seemed to predominate, the brogue of of the Emerald Isle being heard in all directions. French, one hears constantly. Color of every degree is met in the passing faces, and the ubiquitous Chinaman pervades the streets, hotels, ferries, and tram cars, or rather did some short time ago, for now, like the Wandering Jew, he is condemned to " move on ! " Almost all the household servants are Chinese, and very smart they look, with their silken coats and white trousers, sometimes profusely embroid- ered, their long queues hanging down their back SCENKS IN HAWAII. I III ■ 1 if almost to their heels, (I found out afterwards that the queue is frequently made chiefly of silk or cotton braid, which is introduced into the plaid, the natural hair being scarcely longer than below the shoulders), and invariably with a small, round silk cap on top, which seemed to be the correct finishing touch to their indoor dress. On arriving at the pier, the Mongolian again appeared, and on board the good ship " Australia, ' bound for Honolulu, we found them acting in the various capacities of waiters, stewards, sailors, etc., these latter very untidy and dirty in appearance, and always, to me, having a look of surprise on their impassive, yellow faces, owing in part to the fact of their always shaving the hair of the fore- head, except when they wear a fringe over their brows, a sign of being what we call '* in mourning." What a Chinaman calls it, I do not know, as outward- ly, he never mourns except ^ his gambling losses. The sun was shining in a brilliant flood of light through the " Golden Gate," as we left the steep hill of San Francisco in the hazy distance, and set sail for tropical climes : the soft, warm, air, and summer-like arrangement of the ships cabins making one anticipate w'th delight, the genial atmosphere we were soon to enter. SCENES IN Hawaii. d Dark complcxioncd faces in the dining saloon as well as amongst the crew, shewed the probabiHty of there being native Hawaiians and Portugues'^' down belov/, resides the usual complement of V hite waiters; they all appeared to work well together, however. The Captain, a big, burly Saxon in appearance, was very kind and pleasant, an immense favourite on the line, and apparently having plenty of spare time to give to his passengers, especially as the passage was a fine, though not particularly smooth one. The Pacific disappointed nearly everyone in this respect, as, though not stormy, and the sun shining brightly, the long, steady, continuous roll never ceased for a day. The upper decks were immensely long and large, and in a few days, those of the passengers who could tumble up the companion, managed to do so, and the rows of sea-chairs were soon filled by convalescents enjoying the fine, soft air. There were a number of cabins opening on to the decks, each door being arranged with a pretty, cool looking curtain, which blew about in the most refreshing way, a great boon as the nights grew hotter. j«>,. .-m.^..Mi^--Wik..nm^ SCENES IN HAWAII. f >^ ill! i [ If! Now, as to the passenger-list ; first comes Royalty and its surroundings, for we were honoured by the presence of no less a personage, than His Majesty King Kalakua of the Hawaiian Islands, who was returning to Honolulu after a liesurely tour round the world, accompanied by his chamber- lain, Colonel Judd, a fine looking man, son of one of the early American Missionaries to Hawaii, and a suite. The King was a large, tall man, rather too stout for his height, his complexion deep copper-colour, dark curly hair and whiskers, and fine white teeth. The Captain's cabin was beautifully decorated with flowers, for His Majesty's reception, in defer- ence to the Hawaiian fashion, and in it he spent most of the time, rarely appearing except when the gong sounded in the dinning saloon, probably glad enough to keep quiet after eighteen months of sight-seeing and being seen. For, happening to have been in London during his visit there, I had been witness to the way in which King Kalakua had been hailed as the lion of the hour, and his carriage fairly mobbed whenever he appeared as " the king of the Cannibal Islands." Shortly after leaving San Francisco, I was intro- duced (or ; ^sented ! ) to His Majesty, and he was '/.I n-^^Tvy -yi-xu/x^ 1?A^ SCENES IN HAWAII. kaa his as always most kind to us afterwards. His natural dignity of manner was very marked, his voice soft, musical, with a slight foreign accent, and his English, owing to the fact that he was educated chiefly in California, was perfect. He told me that when he was present at an audience given him in Rome by the Pci :, he supplied a word in English, at which Cardinal Mazzini hesitated, doubtless thinking that a native of the Pacific Islands might not be a proficient in that language. On the fifth day of the voyage, officers, stewards, and the king also, appeared in white linen raiment, and the Chinese steward in a loose coat and short trowsers of shining black calico. This latter in spite of his comical appearance, tempted one gentleman to wish that he was " dressed like that Chinaman." Some English professional cricketers were with us also, on their way to Australia, a jolly, good tempered lot, adding much to our enjoyment by their capital singing of choruses, one especially, I remember, called " My little Yorkshire Lass,' in which all joined most heartily, sung in the approved dialect by the stentorian English voices. A sad incident of the voyage was my casual acquaintance with a young girl, who, we were told, was dying of some wasting disease. Her father M I'M 6 SCKNKS IN HAWAII. i'hi of hij^^h Icu^al standing in Honolulu, was a German, her mother a native of the Islands. Often in pass- ing her cabin, where she lay always, I used to peep throuj^h the chintz curtains hun^ in the doorway, wish her good morning, and stand to chat with her for a few minutes. Ilcr face was small, thin, and yellow ; her eyes large, dark> and very melancholy. One hand was bound u[), and we had heard she had lost the other, also a foot. Some weeks later, when she was wasted almost to a shadow, I saw her again at her invitation. Shortly afterwards she died, and the suspicion arose that for the only tim(. during our stay in the Islands I had seen a person dying of leprosy, that fatal disease which is surely exterminating the Hawaiian* race. The bolo .bluff called Diamond Head, which was th.i first point of land visible, was perceived early on the morning of the seventh day. Towards the afternoon every one who could do so, w^as busily engaged in watching for the first glimpse of Honolulu through glasses of every size, but we sailed smoothly enough along the shore for a long time, and were delighted at seeing the grove of cocoa-nut trees which are outside the town, and whose graceful, towering tops give a tropical look to any scenery. . ur-r^r^ -^vmdM IF. SCENKS IN HAWAII. Some little distance frcMii the wharf, the tide was adverse, and the ship had to be towed in by immense ropes, and duriiiij^ this rather ij^nominious process several people left the ship in small boats» and our attention was drawn by the appearance of numerous officials who were rowed from the shore to meet His Majesty on board, who presently appeared with his suite, all in most fashionably cut London clothes, high liats, etc. He went about among the passengers, saying good bye in the kindest way, and I should be afraid ii tell how many royal autographs were asked for and pre- sented. The officials were clad in the most gorgeous uniforms, all gold lace, cocked hats, swords, etc., something between a diplomatic and full dress naval uniform ; and numerous greetings were passed between the friends who met perhaps after an absence of many months. A beautiful gig, i.anned by natives dressed in white, wearing wreathes of flowers and leaves round their necks and hats, and flying the royal Hawaiian standard, was ready for the King, and in it he em- barked, followed by his suite in their different crafts, and in the distance we coidd hear the strains of a band playing a welcome to their returned monarch. • U ; I',. 'I 'I i 8 SCENES IN If WVAII. During the time which elapsed before we were able to land, we were amused by the antics of a crowd of youthful savages, who had ap[)eared from the town, and who were swimmin^^ all round the ship, and now and then divinj^ for the pieces of silver thrown to them by the passen<(ers, and which seemed all part of the performance to be {.^one through with when a ship came into harbour. The children looked like so many polly-wogs, and did not seem to mind how far down they had to dive for a sixpence, bringing it up in their mouths, and y«^ll- ing with delight every time a fresh one was thrown. They seemed wonderfully good swimmers. The wharf was crowded with natives of every age ; the women, as a rule, tall, walking with a long, swinging gait, very dark in colour, and all dressed in flowing cotton garments, called by them holokus. They all wore straw hats, of every shape, but the sailor shape seemed to be the one most affected, with broad, bright ribbons round them. There seemed to be two modes in the fashion, one to be tilted over the nose, resting on a huge tortoise shell comb ; and the other worn more back from the forehead, and untidy masses of black locks streaming down to the waist. The men, some of them very fine-looking fel- S(;ENKS FN HAWAII. 9 lows, wore blue or white cotton trousers, bright coloured shirts with buttons the size of a shillinf^, and plenty of them ; straw hats, some very small ; the feet either bare, or clad in h.igh leather riding boots, with immense Mexican spurs, jingling as they walked ; the more noise a native can make with iiis spurs the much finer man he thinks himself. All, men and women, wore leis or wreathes of flowers round their hats and necks ; some of the blossoms being so strongly scented as to be overpowering to the olfar tory nerves. The taxes paid, in the shape of a $2 bill, to be given by each person intending to reside in the Island, for the support of the Queen's Hospital, we presently found ourselves at the hotel, a fine, large wooden building, with beautiful grounds about it and huge double verandahs. All the servants were Chinese — no women ser- vants to be seen ; the Chinaman being equally good as house-maid, waiter, or cook. The rooms were comfortable, each bed being provided \Ath the inevitable mosquito curtain, made of fine netting, g .lerally hung from the ceil- ing by means of a rope and pulley arrangement, which enables the traveller to raise or lower it according to his requirements. 10 8CENKS IN HAWAII. As soon as Jaylight wanes, in comes a Chinaman to pull down the net all round the bed and tuck it securely between the matrasses, so as to prevent the fast-comin[( hordes of mosquitoes from pene- trating the folds. Strangers have to get accus- tomed to this piece of daily routine, or, in consequence, the occupant, thinking he has done all that is necessary, will be just dozing off when the fatal sing-sing of the little tormentor will be heard, and then good-bye to a night's rest till the murder is committed. A most valuable addition to one's comfort is a box of the Persian insect powder, which is prepared from the blossom of the yellow pyrethrum, which is brought down from the Pacific Coast in barrels and sold in any quantity. A small quantity of this kept burning in a little tin will deal an immens"e amount of destruction, the fumes rendering the mosquitoes perfectly help- less, and, if burned long enough, killing them in such numbers that frequently the dustpan will be filled with them the next morning. A small box of this powder can be easily put in a corner of one's portmanteau, and anyone who suffers from the attacks of these pests should never be without it. The next day was Sunday, and a walk about cir«ryK 7VO SA ^ \\^Ji> l^^s^iXA SCKNES IN HAWAII. 11 the town shewed it to be quite as pretty in the interior as it appeared from the harbour. Nearly all the streets were shaded by rows of trees on both sides, and the houses, built in every form of archi- tecture — brick, adobe, wooden and rou[^h-cast, and all with verandahs, — were overi^rown with Mexican creepers, honeysuckles, and passion flowers in the loveliest profusion. The hedges of scarlet ger- anium and coleus were wonderful to look upon, and the air was scented with heliotrope and roses of every hue. There is so little change in the seasons that many of these flower bloom all the year round. The bougainvillier was one mass of purple of every shade, growing in a marvellous state of luxuriance — it is a different looking plant altogether from that grown in a conservatory, the colour is so rich and th^ foliage so thick and massive. The palms in the pretty gardens were a great source of admiration, so large were the glossy leaves, and so imposing in size. Alamandas grew their lovely yellow bells on shrubs and trees; crotons were six feet high, and the lillies and beautiful red spotted leaves of the cultivated taro or Calladiums were something for northern eyes to wonder at. "wmm^^m' IM 12 SCENES IN HAWAII. ir'iji i f f:! An effort to find the An<:^lican Church resulted in our missing the way and finding ourselves in a Methodist house of worship, known as the " Fort Street Church," which was well lighted and most comfi^rtably fitted with cushioned pews. An ex- cellent choir was seated on a large platform, in front of which were the usual arrangements of chairs, desk, etc., for the minister. Sitting there, one could harJly realize the fact that home was so many thousand miles away, but one had to remember that the month was Novem- ber, and the light dresses of the many fair and dark women about seemed to tell us that we were in another atmosphere, much more like June than anything else. Coming back to the hotel vvj saw a large open gateway, and wandering in we found that the Cathedral of Honolulu was inside a large com- pound, with fine large trees about it and the Rectory, which was close by. Beside the church was a school for natives and whites (girls) presided over by the members of the Anglican sisterhood. We peeped in and saw a large, plain wooden building with a flower-decked altar at the far end, and a surpliced choir on each side of the chancel. % »• i. -VIL fiP .****'% SCENES IN HAWAII. 13 Sometime later, a most ambitious building was begun to take the place of the Old St. Andrew's, and it is still in process of construction. It will be a beautiful church when finished, and the town may well be proud of such a handsome structure. The stone was all sent from England, and the church will be a memento of the untiring exertions of bishop, pastor and congregation. We found there were two native services in the Hawaiian language besides the English ones. The rector, the Rev. Alexander Mackintosh generally taking the native services, his many years of residence in Honolulu having made him perfectly familiar with all the dialects of Hawaii. ,11' ' \i 14 SOENK.S IN HAWAII. I}l!lll n : :il: CHAPTER II. Welcome to the King. — Proce&.ion in palace grounds-. — Dancing girls. — Fire l)rigade. — Concert in opera house. — Hawaiian band and Ilerr Berger. — Moonlight in Honolulu. — Expedition up the Pali. — Riding party. — Waikiki. — Luncheon party at the Kings. — Her Majesty Queen Kapiolani. — Leis. — Old Wahine with fish, — Tabu. — •Hawaiian curiosities at the palace. — Feather robes. — Kahilis. — Queen Kapiolani's gift to Queen Victoria, TT7HE next day wa.s ushered in brightly and noisily, the firing of guns and letting off of crackers going on without intermission. The streets were gaily decorated with bunting, and numbers of arches erected, some of them very pretty. The oddest was the Chinese one, which was very large, in the shape of a pagoda, and quite brilliant in its effect at a distance by dint of lan- terns of every shape and form, paper flowers of every hue, and numerous strange looking objects, of which the " reason why " would be known to a Chinaman only. On all sides, in letters of flowers, bunting, etc., appeared the words, " Aloha " — " Aloha nui " — which is the general salutation of Hawaiian welcome and greeting. At mid-day we took up a position near the gates opening into the grounds surrounding the King's =^«'W»W"'*" »".t iiy i i i % SCENES IN HAWAII. 16 new palace, which was then in an unfinished state, to watch the procession, which was to be held in honour of the Kind's return. Presently the strains of the band were heard and the long stream of natives began to pass, clad in every colour of the rainbow, profus^y be-ribboned, and carrying large silken banners, gorgeously embroidered and bearing mottoes in English and Hawaiian*; one of these inscriptions roused our curiosity, being " Hail, David," til) we found that David was the King's English name. One old native, bent and gray, carried a lighted torch, made of some hard, yellow nuts called ku-kui, very oily and idflammablc, which were bound together at the top of -a large staff. The custom of bearing a lighted torch in the day-time is a right belonging only to those who can claim true descent from the High Chiefs, or relationship with the royal family. We saw but the one, so apparently the connection was not a large one ! Without exception, men, women and children wore leis of flowers and leaves. We followed the crowd presently into the meadow-like grounds and sat down on the grass under a tree to watch the curious sight. - .J i 16 SCENKS IN HAWAII. ilHi Hi ! The sun shone down hotly as though it was June, and the white walls of the p. Jace were quite dazzling. Beh'iid the palr.ce, a little to one side, were the houses of the King- and Queen, long, low structures, with wide verandahs, enclosed with pink lattice work. At the top of the. steps stood His Majesty, attired in snowy white, with his black head uncovered, and behind him stood several members of the royal family. His appearance was greeted with loud shouts of " Aloha ! Aloha ! " He made a speech in Hawaiian, and ended with a loud " Aloha," and then disappeared, the ladies being seen now and then through the lattice. The crowd dispersed about the grounds, sitting and lying under the trees, some eating and drinking, and each talking and chattering at the top of their voices, which when raised are anything but musical, but good nature seemed to reign, and the effect of the whole mass was that of jolly, dark faces, flashing eyes, gleaming white teeth, light dresses, and brilliant flowers, making a bright, tropical-like picture never to be forgotten. In the evening, we returned to the palace groundSj where the crowd was more dense than even in the morning, especially in the vicinity of . ,. - r-.T nv -trr ^ V-jiT. SCENES tN HAWAII. 17 of the King's house, the verandahs and surrounding trees being briUiantly lit up. We noticed a group of girls standing together dressed somewhat differently from others. They appeared to have white holokus on, but instead of being long and flowing, these were drawn up through a girdle of sweet-smelling leaves, forming a short, full skirt, their arms and feet were bare, with curious fur-like anklets, their hair hanging down with wreaths of flowers and leaves amongst it. These were the dancing girls, professional dancers, who were to perform during the evening for the amusement of the King and his friends. There was a procession of some fire engines going on, and they filed in and passed before the King, who is intensely interested in the Honolulu Fire Brigade, rendering great service himself on many occasions. The Chinese have a very good engine amongst others. Later in the week we were asked to go to a concert to be given on the occasion of opening the Royal Opera House, and of course we accepted the invitation gladly. The British vice-consul had kindly given us seats in his box, from which we had an excellent view of the whole house, including the royal box, which was opposite. 18 SCteNES IN HAWAII. '■■"ii :^il The concert itself was a ^ood amateur one ; no natives taking part in the programme. One beautiful contralto voice thrilled the audi- ence with the pathetic strains of " Three Fishers," and there was some unusually good playing on the piano. The house is a pretty one, fitted up in bright crimson, and well lighted. Only two boxes, but both very large ; in the one opposite was His Majesty, and his sisters, Princesses Lydia Lillio- kalani, and Like-like, both very dark, and in even- ing dress. I could not help recalling the occasion of seeing King Kalakua in Her Brittannic Majesty's box at Covent Garden a' few months before, where he had been watched with great interest by a London audience, listening to the great Diva. Honolulu beasts, and rightly, of a most excellent band, composed entirely of natives, led and taught by a German band-master, whose untiring energy has brought out a great deal of musical Hawaiian talent. I always regarded Herr Berger, as the most wonderful man in Hawaii ; when one knows • the difficulty of inducing a native to stick to any one duty, one can only marvel at the patience and tact he must have possessed and exercised to attain the result he has. Not knowing the ^^^^^mmmmimmtmm SCKNKS IN HAWAII. 19 Hiiwaiian language on arrival, he had not only to learn that well enough to speak it in an ordinary way, but he had, no doubt, to invent words, to make natives understand the use of instruments they had never seen. Ilerr Berger gets out all the new mui.ic, and it is indeed most delightful to listen to the strains of the band, mingled now and then with the voices, which take up certain parts, and sing them together. The men's dress was very effective, a combination of white trousers, scarlet tunics faced with black and gold, and white peaked caps, which must have taken their fancy amazingly, as Hawaiians in common with others of a tropical climate, love brightness of colour in every shape. Herr Berger had also composed a national anthem, called " Hawaii Ponoi," which was ex- tremely pretty, and rather stately, and was played at the royal entrance, and at the conclusion of a programme. Every Saturday afternoon the band played in the pretty gradens of Emma Square, so named after the well known and well loved Queen Dowager ; and sometimes moonlight nights would be render- ed even more lovely in the Hotel grounds, by the band playing in a pavillion erected for them there 20 SCENES IN HAWAII. It I m ! h hr Honolulu by mootili<^ht is indeed a '* dream of beauty," sitting on the verandah of the hotel with the palms, ferns, flowerin<^ shrubs, and tall, feathery trees all silvered over, and the mountain throwing uncertain shadows, one felt that to be in a tropical country was a very charming experience. Jhis mountain seemed to rise almost immedi- ately behind the town, and the lights and shadows were ever varying, now deep purple in the morning, grow'ng brighter as the day wore on, until the setting sun made the peaks glow with roseate hues, and then fading with the rapidly descending, tropical twilight, and again bursting out with a new, soft beauty in the brilliant moonlight. The excursion up this Pali or mountain was a very beautiful one ; we were invited to join a large party going up to the point of view, and one fine morning had a delightful expedition. Many of the young people were on horseback, and to witness perfect enjoyment, one has to see a Honolulu riding party ; how they enjoy it ? and how, oh how, they scamper ! up hill, and down hill, anywhere and everywhere at full canter, with the reins held in a fashion mainly peculiar to themselves, very far out to one side, whips going-— m^niiL^m .^jj :X„..2a?_ SCENES IN HAWAII. 21 spur often too. It was our first si'^ht of a young lady riding astride like tlie natives ; I got used to it by seeing it so often afterwards, but never could like it — I think it is too ungraceful a position for a white woman ever to become it, though we saw many excellent riders. We mounted up, up, slowly enough at the last, until apparently not very far from the top, got out of the carriages, the young folks dismounting and tying up their horses, turned a corner of the road, and then, wJiat a view from the bend of the hill before the path descended into the valley, lay before us. The sea was rolling calm and blue beyond, and between, were rice plantations with their tender green showing against the darker foliage of trees surrounding the white houses gleaming in the sunlight. The coast-line bounded all this colour, and the dark, rugged background of the Pali made a beau- tiful picture, especially favoured as we were with a day of glorious sunshine and cool breezes. Shortly after our arrival in the capital we were bidden to a luncheon party at Waikiki, a suburb about two miles from Honolulu, where King Kala- kua has a pretty little countiy house, to which he % . Bl^- ^ s\\ m rrr^T, SCENES IN HAWAII. 25 cheon that day were Mr. and Mrs. Lambert, whose splendid steam yacht was then in harbour, I beh'eve then the largest afloat, and which naturally created great interest, though the ** Sunbeam " had been a former visitor to Honolulu some years previously. Mr. Lambert's anecdotes were always amusing, and while listening to some of his stories, we were sud- denly aware of the presence of an old native woman crawling across the grass on her knees,, holding a dish of freshly-caught fish of the most extra- ordinarily brilliant colours. They reminded me of some I had once seen in Bermuda, but these were even more wonderful in their opaline hues. The wizzened old creature held up the dish in front of the King, still crouching at his feet, and we all admired with the genuine admiration of strangers. At a nod from His Majesty, she fell almost flat on her chest and writhed (there is no other woi'd to express her motions) out of the garden laughing and chattering to herself The servants were all natives, and probably friends, who would see that the old woman did not go away unrewarded. In old times no one could approach a high chief except by crawling, and in addition, had to take the risk of finding him in good humour. If in a bad temper and the chief chose to move so ^'-^ ^'- '1: i ir 2^ SCENES IN HAWAII. that his shadow fell on the person approachinc^, that person, be it he or she, became talm, which signifies more than our word taboo, for once falling under tabu meant not only being shunned, but not allowed to touch anything belonging to others, and to live how they could, on what they could, apart from all. [f the chief happened to be in a very bad humour he would order the tabued creature to be killed, Instant death followed such an order. Mr. Lambert had an artist friend with him on board the yacht who had wished to sketch some of these rainbow-colored fish, but I imagine the vivid hues would have faded before they could have been transferred to canvas. On taking our leave, the King said he was then going into the town to shew Mr. and Mrs. Lambert some ancient Hawaiian curiosities which were at the palace, and most kindly invited us to accom- pany them. We considered ourselves most fortunate, as now-a-days, unless in the houses of the high chiefs, one cannot see any good native work. Accordingly we drove back to the town behind His Majesty's carriage, and in a short time drew up in front of the lattice-worked verandah which we had seen on the day of the procession. The door, /w«^>ii HO • »ajnrwy3ii''''iBr ^>>t. SCENES IN HAWA'I. 27 as usual, opened at once into tlie drawinf^-room, and here were the cabinets contain in- V Lambert kindly ofiferini; to convey Queen Emma to Hilo on Hawaii, Her Majesty graciously ac- ceptinij the courtesy, she sent word that she must bring a few attendants, and made her appearance with no less then eighteen followers in her suite ! However, a native can sleep anywhere, with no other provisions than a mat and a calabash of poi. This poi (pronounced with a short, sharp accent, indescribable to those who have not heard Hawaiian) is the staple food of the native, made from the root of the taro, I believe, a species of caladium, and which is grown in great quatities on all the islands. Anyone can see " patches " as they are always called, during a ride along the banks of any stream, or skirting a valley wherein the native loved to make his home. I say loved, for the once fertile valleys are now deserted, with only the traces of the terraces where, in the old days, the taro flourished in profusion. These terraces are often carried down the slope ct a-fiill, so that a stream of water can, by an ingenious system of canals, be easily diverted from one to another, without any great exertion, a thing which the Hawaiian abhors with a holy ,; horror. The root is planted from the stems with the young leaves, which are first put in mounds of rich, bog-like earth, and when the root has SCENES IN HAWAII. 33 formed, arc transplanted into rows some inches apart, the water is then turned into the irrigating ditches, and the plants left till fit for use. A hill side covered with a succession of these taro patches is a fresh cool thing to look at, each patch being outlined by banks of grass, on which one can walk from one terrace to another. When ready for use the roots are pulled up bodily with the stems and leaves adhering, the young stalks being boiled as a vegetable called luau, and the old leaves form a nourishing food for the dearly beloved pig, which animal plays as important a part in a native household, as in that of a Paddy ! The taro root is boiled over the fire which, as a rule is made in a hole in the ground outside the house, and when soft enough to have the tough, fibrous skin pulled off is placed in a large wooden bowl, almost flat —very like an ordinary mincing board ; generally hollowed out of one piece of wood. The natives, sometimes women, sometimes men, then take up their position on either side of the board, sitting a la Turque, each with a heavy stone mallet, and break up the smoking pile of roots into a thick, heavy paste, in which condition it is called pai-ai. Before it is to be eaten, it is stirred with the addition of cold water to the consistence of thick :!{| "m^ m:. -^^^ ^ \.Mt^:^ 9k mp i jt > 34 SCENKS IN HAWAII. V l\ sago, left to ferment for a few clays, until it gets the sour tciste supposed to be correct, and then put into calabashes, (perhaps one for the general table) and the whole family assemble to enjoy it. One often sees a circle seated on the ground near a hut, at all hours of the day, with a huge calabash of poi in the middle. Each native, man, woman or child, dips two fingers, (the more grimy the better) into the glutincnis mass, and with a kind of double twist gather as much as possible, and throwing back the he. id, the fingers are placed in the mouth, and the food sucked off them with immense gusto. I was anxious when I first went to the islands to witness the performance of eat- ing poi, but having once seen it, never cared to repeat the experiment. It was a horrible sight to strange eyes, though one must admit that the rapidity with which the whole thing is done, is indeed astounding. Poi has all the elements necessary to nourishment, and is often ordered to invalids as being remarkably easy of digestion. Many white people like it much, especially with salt fish or meat, but they, I need scarcely mention, eat it in a different manner to the native. Children consume quantities of poi mixed with milk and sugar. There is a kind of taro which is pink in "'A |; JL^ SCEMES IN HAWAII. 35 colour, but which is kept for the king or high chief's use ; and a friend who travelled much on Hawaii with His Majesty, told us the poi produced from it was particularly delicate and good. The Hawaiians have also what are called Poi dogs, which arc in appearence very much the same as small white French poodles, these are greatly petted, fed on nothing but i)oi, until they are of the desired age, and then — horrible thought ! are eaten as a special delicacy, but 1 must say I never heard of one English visitor being induced to taste poi dog, unless mayhap, under false pretences ! There is now a manufactory for making flour from the taro, which it is claimed will make ex- cellent poi, as well as cake, bread and blanc-mange, but it is not so satisfying or nourishing as the food made from the root itself. Poi is made by the Chinese, and sold in all stages by them, a common sight in the streets of Honolulu being a Chinaman, in his queer, loose blue garments, legs bare from the knees, and a big straw hat, bearing on his shoulders a pole at either end of which, is suspended a five gallon kerosene tin can, filled with pai-ai or poi. which is retailed to the native who is too lazy to make his own food. Passing along the Chinese 36 SCENES IN HAWAII. I quarters one day, I peeped in an open door, and there beheld two Chinamen, 'one on either side of a huge tin bath, pounding away with all their might at poi, their yellow skins shining with the exer- tion, and very little clothing on ; the day was hot, and the little shop was hotter still, I shuddered, notwithstanding the heat, and did not envy the consumers of that poi ! One small taro patch will almost keep a native in food, the poi being generally made once a week ; the root is very good Doiled or baked, and broken in pieces, is a mottled purple colour, and is a standard vegetable at almost every table in the islands. i S(,'KNES IN HAWAII. 37 CHAPTER IV. Voyage between Honolulu and llanai. — -Home at Raj)aa, — Arrival at Kilawce. — " Wailele Hale."— Uarden there. - Different Fruits. — 1 lowers. — Trees. — Variety of colour in Landscape. VIIORTLY after the festivities in honour of Kin^^ Kalakua's return were over, we de- parted for Kauai, " The Garden Island," as it is called, where our plantation home was. The small, and then, most uncomfortable inter-island steamer left at about five in the afternoon, and we were on board the tossing little boat in good time to watch the curious scene about us. Any steamer leaving the wharf at Honolulu is a source of immense interest always to the natives ; they are very lond of travelling from one island to another, and invariably accompany their friends for a final leave-taking. The chattering and laughing is also mingled often with the shedding of tears and waili.ng, in both of which accomplishments the Hawaiian excels. They can command tears with- out any provocation, and it is a most curious sight to see two old women meet on a wharf, not having ■r'^-^mm-^m^^^mm 38 SCENKS IN HAWAII. I V ..J ' IP [','1 .- seen each other for some time. They will cry " Aloha " — embrace in the fondest manner, and with a jerk of their Holokus (peculiar to them- selves, and not to be described in words alone), sit down in the dust a la Turque, throw their arms around each other's portly form, and forth- with bet^in a swayini^ mc v)n, the tears pouring down their brown faces, with hats on the back of their heads from which the black hair streams, and wailing at intervals, with a long cry, low at the beginning, and getting louder and louder, till it finally sinks away to silence, only to be raised again immediately, in precisely the same manner. Af.;er several minutes' duration the wailing v/ould stop as suddenly as it had begun ; the tears dry up, and the much loved pipe, black, short and very dirty would make its appearance. One of the friends would produce the rank, strong tobacco which is grown plentifully on the islands, fill and light up, take a whiff or two, and present it to the other, who would follow suit ; their countenances clear as if by magic, and presently the old ladies would rise, take each other by the hand, and march off together to see some mutual acquaintance, V/hcre in all probability the whole performance would be repeated. In travellmg, they always take SCKNES IN HAWAII. 30 their mats with ihem, and generally some gourds of poi. With these they are quite independent, and on getting on board they at once disappear behind the curtain of matting, which is supposed to divide the steerage from the cabin. If the weather be smooth, they will laugh, talk and chatter most of the night, in all likelihood playing cards, of which they are passionately fond. ]^ut, generally speak- ing, the passage is a rough one ; and being bad sailors, as a rule, the results are not, strictly speak- ing, pleasant. Cabin passengers are each given a narrow, clean mattress, and two pillows, to be placed on deck and one has to make the best of this scanty accommodation. Meals are served in the dark, musty little saloon below, but I never de- scended, even to explore these regions. One could take fruit, biscuits, etc., and thus be tolerably com- fortable. Very early the next morning we anchored some distance from the low shore, and between the steamer and wharf there appeared to me to be a very angry looking stretch of sea. Presently a large boat was brought to the side of the steamer, rowed by natives, and a little gangway was let down for ^ the passengers to descend by. The Captain jumped in first, and as I grasped the ropes. ^.♦'■m:': .»m ^ m J. •;■ I' 40 SCENES IN HAWaU. s I wondering if I should not drop into the sea instead of the boat, which was bobbing about far beneath me in a most uncomfortable, wobbling kind of fashion, I felt two strong arms seize me, and a voice saying, in a strong American accent, "Just leave yourself to me, and let go ! " which I immedi- ately did, and was deposited at once on c. very rough wooden seat, with my feet far from the ground ! If one can use such an expression with regard to a boat ! The Captain remarked in ^a tone of satisfac- tion, " If the lady who sprained hv.r foot last week in trying to help herself had done what you did and * let ^oj she would have been all right now." So my advice to unwary lady travellers is to " let go " when you are told. An old, rather stout lady, who had come on another occasion by the same steamer, happened to tell me that when she was hanging mid-way between the sea and boat, that the Captain remarked cheerfully, " Now, ma'am, you just leave go and skip ! " " But, Captain," she cried, "my skipping days are over." " Never mind, ma'am, you just skip, and I'll fix you ! " We danced over the surf into smooth water, and on landing found that a large rockaway wiih a pair of mules had been most kindl> and thoughtfully sent to meet us by a friend, to convey us over ■ ■ "*'•. V.^ JM^At— fc^J SCENES IN HAWAII. 41 the fifteen miles which lay between us and our destination. But first we availed ourselves of a most hos- pitable invitation to take breakfast with Mrs. Dole, wife of the manager of Kapaa plantation, on which we now were. Their pretty home stood on a high hill, visible for miles about, and from the plateau in front of the house could be seen one of the finest views on the island. Mr. Dole, who had come with us from Honolulu, preceded us by a short cut, a bridle path, up which he rode, and we followed more slowly by a road which wound gradually up to the house itself, and at the door stood Mrs. Dole to welcome us. Such a bonnie sweet face, with the loveliest golden brown hair and fair complexion, which shewed no traces of the hot sun and salt winds, to which she had been accustomed all her life. The house was a large one wi'-h a huge verandah running round three sides, one big sitting room the width of the house, opening at once at both ends on the verandah, and a dining room in the same way; beyond the sitting rooms were bed- rooms, some opening only on to the verandah ; the kitchens were a little beyond the house, as is the case almost universally ; and a few hundred yards away were a couple of tiny cottages, each with one f'n^,m^'Mmr'^ w^' 42 SCENES IN JIAWAir. ,!' 1' It;; room — a dressing room —and a verandah. These cottage rooms are generally kept for visitors, and a most sensible fashion, (when so many houses are built on one floor), thus ensuring peaceful solitude, if wished, for one's island friends. Mr. Dole's liospitable table was a picture to be remembered; the fine, stalwart figure and kind face of the master of the liouse, the sweet, fresh looks of the wife, and no less than eight blooming young faces gathered round. We were very hungry and did full justice to the good fare, with appetites sharpened by the see breezes, and in less than an hour afterwards we had said good-bye to our friends and were on our way to Kilauea. But many a pleasant day did I spend afterwards with them. Nothing could exceed the true kindness with which we were treated at that house, and I think we all felt a bitter pang when we finally said farewell. The drive from Kapaa was a very beautiful one, though very tiring, from the number of hills to be surmounted, or, as they say in Hawaii, " gulches crossed." The mules galloped up and down hill and walked on the level, a mode of travel remark- able to my unused eyes. Fording was another w KVol^J SCENKS 1?^ HAWAII. 43 experience, not pleasant ; the water apparently going one way and you striving for another is not the most delightful sensation ; however, we con- quered all obstacles, and the day was still youn'g when we turned in at a wooden gate, which was surmounted by an arch of evergreens as a welcome. I saw several flags flying from different parts of the plantation, also in our honour, and in a few minutes we passed under another arch and drew up in front of "Wailele Cottage," or " VVailele Hale," as the natives called it, meaning ** House by the Water- fall." The hpuse was most beautifully situated, almost on the brink overlooking the Kilauea River, which rushed down from the lovely fall just above the house. The river was very wide just opposite the side verandah, and looking down the high bank the ferns and foliage were in lovely profusion. In the marshy land across the river, at the foot of the bank was a splendid grove of bannanas, of an especially good kind, and many a feast did we have from them. The verandahs w^ere soon covered with creepers ; passion flowers of a deep purple colour grew in wild It" ^^JS^^-m^ ^"te.-MT ;■■ in 44 SCENKS IN HAWAII. If I; l< -l : Nj I' h > •- 1 luxuriance, as also honey suckle and begonia. vanus- ta, the last a most gorgeous climber, bearing blos- soms of a deep gold colour. A hedge of scented ge- ranium ran up on each side of the pathway to the gate ; double scarlet geraniums with enormous blossoms, pink begonias, oleanders all flourished ; a bed of variegated caladium marked a damp corner ; shrubs of scarlet hibiscus, and clumps of the Australian castor oil trees made bits of colour, and handsome stalks of sunflowers stood up in all their glory. Tuberoses grew beautifully, mari- golds of every shade of yellow ; and balsams, which were unwittingly planted, grew in such pro- lific quantities that we had to have a periodical rooting up ; also vincas ; some cocoa palms from Tahiti, the nuts given to us by a friend, and a tiny grove of orange trees soon promised well. A large tree of mangoes gave delicious fruit, and a huge grove of Oheas gave us the cool juicy moun- tain apples. At a distance of about two miles was a capital grove of lime trees, and one of the favourite expe- d'tions was a visit to the grove, on horseback, well armed with saddle-bags. Arrived there, or rather as close to the valley, in mm SCENES IN HA.WA1I. 45 which the grove w.is, as we could get, we would dismount, scramble down the hill, whereon grew several fine bread-fruit trees, and after many struggles with the thorn-covered branches of tb'^ lime trees, we would emerge, victorious, and laden with the green and gold-^n spoil. The limes were quite as good as lemons, and if they had been left to attain full growth would, no doubt, have been as large, but the Portuguese labourers liked them s well as we did, with the lamentable result that after a fine Sunday or public holiday (of which there were many) we would find that our favourite grove had been well ransacked. Guavas grew in quantities also close to our home ; they are a lovely fruit to look at with their golden skin, and when ()[)eiied disclose a brilliant pink colour with dozens o( seeds packed close together. There are different varieties, some soft and sweet, some sharply acid, and again others, called the strawberry guava, from its resemblance in flavour to that fruit. The guava grows on a shrub of varying height, bearing fruit when very small ; the leaf not unlike a birch, and the blossom white, with a scent and appearance akin to the syringa. : iT ^ I^tJWI^ ■<»' W"^F~ JT • -* 46 SCKNKS IN HAWAII. t ;) ■■s 1/ «i I Ml ' i K I li Excellent jelly ami marmalade are made from guavas, as well as other dishes. I well remember a good planter of Mauai telling me his wife had sent one hundred pounds of guava jelly, of her own making, to her people in Norway as a Christmas present, not a cheap one either, as the express, etc., was $1.00 a pound. The papaiti tree is another well-known in Kauai, and we had a number of our own planting. l^Iiis tree has several good qualities to recommend it in a tropical climate. It grows with astonishing rapi- dity, a plant from seed shooting up in a few months to a full-grown tree ; the leaves which are long, with curiously cut-out edges, grow from the tops, gathering themselves together and springing out in form not unlike an umbrella tree, with the fruit hanging in a great clump immediately beneath. The latter vary in size, the largest being that of an ordinary melon, with a smooth hard skin, and slightly pear-shaped. As the fruit gets a slightly yellow colour, it is picked and in a few days is fit for use. When cut open in the middle, the two halves are found full of small round seeds, which are carefully removed, leaving about an inch of the yellow flesh, and when these hollows ■■T»- «Ht rk'»* -«^! Wm::9e^ SCENKS IN HAWAII. 47 i are filled with sugar and lime juice, and baked, the dish is a most appetizing one, and one which never failed to find favour with our friends. The toughest meat if wrapped in the papaia leaves will become tender after such treatment, and a valuable medicine is made from the fruit itself, which alone has an anti-scorbutic effect. « Aligator pears have a great attraction for many, these have a tough greenish brown skin, and the soft white meat is taken out and spread on bread, eaten with salt and pepper. Hawaiian oranges are delicious, and a kind German having given us permission to invade his kuliana, or vegetable and fruit garden, we drove over to it, to find orange trees of enormous height, with their golden fruit lying in heaps which we les- sened considerably ; they grow wild in many parts of the islands and bear in profusion. And, can anyone imagine anything much more poetic in idea, or delicious in flavour, than honey made from orange blossoms ? A friend told me that at certain times of the year, the bees used to gather their material from the orange groves on her father's ranche, and that honey was always known as the " orange-blossom honey," most idyllic, that ! The iti ■4rw': ■^'%. MP II :' I i i @: 48 SCENKS IN HAWAII. bread fruit tree ( I wonder ivJiy bread fruit ? As unlike that staple production of northern climes as anything can well be!) is a very fine, handsome tree, with large irregular leaves growing in bunches, and the round, knotty fruit growing singly. It must be picked in a certain condition of ripeness to be eaten, as if left until it is yellow, it falls to the ground to be found quite decayed. So when it is desired for the table, a native or South Sea Islander is sent on a climbing expedition, and soon discovers one with the proper greenish yellow hue, a hole is cut in the rind to the required depth, and filled with salt ; it is then baked, in the coals if possible, and broken into rough pieces when dished. To my taste it was anything but nice, and in fact I thought I had by mistake got on my plate some bad sweet potatoes once, when dining at a friends, and naturally said nothing of it, when I heard my neighbor remark to our hostess, " Well ! I do think that is the very nicest bread fruit I ever tasted ! " All my ideas anent the bread fruit in the " Swiss Family Robinson," were im- mediately put to flight, and I never cared to repeat the experiment. ncA r,;*tij SCENES IN HAWAII. 49 Everything nearly grows almost without care and culture, and a small amount of trouble will repay the flower and fern lover in a marvellous fashion. A few tea boxes filled with fern roots made a lovely window garden, and for months they flourished, throwing out fresh fronds as the old ones decayed. The tree ferns in the damp depths of the mountain forest were a wonderful sight, the golden brown vieing with the brilliant green of the great drooping fronds ; and one day a Chinaman brought me a most curious plant, which grows parasite- fashion around the forest trees. The stalk was long with rings around it. A huge scarlet cup of a very brillant colour, had long drooping edges, which seemed to fade off into a pale green, the tips being quite eighteen inches in length, inside the cup were three enormous brown stamen, as large as the very biggest cigar, and much the same in appearance ; it was a very curious and beauti- ful plant. A native told me it was called the ii (ee-ee), and only grew in warm, damp places. The only tree which to me had a familiar look, were some tall, thin tapcing yews, or what were very like them ; at the foot of a steep bank close 4 m^:j^m^x m'js. 50 SCKMES IN HAWAII. I I I I to Wailclc were three of these trees planted close together, by an early settler, and their churchyard appearance was more evident, when 1 discoveerd that there were in olden days two graves on that spot. Certainly the luxuriance and variety of vege- tation is forcibly suggested by the varying tints of green in a Hawaiian view. I remember Miss Bird speaking of this in her " Six months in the Sandwich Islands," and fully agree with all she says as to the extreme beauty of the foliage there, though perhaps no colour but green may be seen for miles. The ragged — always ragged — leaves of the banana have a deep green, slightly yellowish tint; the cocoanut palm has even more yellow in its feathery tops; the 0/im, or mountain apple, has the rich green of an oak, the maille^ mangoe, and lime trees the same ; while the kiikui is a light, almost pea-green colour. The pauJiala or cauhala (co-ha-la) is, while a sapling very like a young aloe, the leaves being long, pointed, and of two shades of green ; in growing it assumes a curious shape, the main trunk throwing out strag- gling branches and clumps of leaves, each clump, like a separate plant, growing at the ends of these strange-looking arms ; at a distance they are very ft «K -i -Tt'.^! SCKNKS IN HAWAII. 51 tropical in appearance. The koa is an ugly tree, but the wood is beautiful in appearance, and is much prized for furniture. At one time sandal wood was found in great quantities in the Islands, but from sheer carelessness the tree has almost disappeared. The magnolia is especially admired from its lovely white blossoms, set like ivory jars among the thick glossy leaves of deep shining green. 1 I :*^'%' «»V->-^>f ■■ 52 SCENES IN HAWAII. ! i CHAPTER V. Servants ! — Chinese Family, — Mary Mahoi. — Ah Sam and his Pretty Bride. — Portugese. — Da Souza. — German Servants. — Ah See and his i\ntics. — Chinese New Year. — " Salt Eggs." — Opium Smoking. — Hing Hoi and his Music ! — Sin Fat. — Chinese Gamblers. — Theives. — Scribblings — Decorations. — Japanese Servants. MO question now-a-days raises much more inter- est in a household than that of Servants ! Even in the most civilized countries one has to confront this, to the mistress of the house^ important problem and consider the best way of solving it. How much more then must the stranger, accus- tomed to the comfort of the modern " Registry Office for Servants," feel the weight of this ques- tion on arriving in a far off land like Hawaii ! where, except in the capital, Honolulu, one must take what is presented, and be thankful if patience and temper will alike hold out during the weary work of training a new " hand " or " help " as the servants were often called ; ignorant of each other's language even ; and the knowledge that the mere necessaries of every day comfort must seem to those SCENES IN HAWAII. 53 to be taught, the most uncalled for and absurd superfluities of existence. The large number of Chinese in the Islands, and the almost impossibility of making the natives into the most ordinary domestics, render it generally the best thing to do, to employ Chinamen alto- gether, inside and outside the house. On my first arrival at our house I found a family of Chinese Christians had been provided for my comfort ; they were considered a wonderfully lucky chance, and had been living in a very small bachelor household for some months in the hope of proving thoroughly competent servants, which hope, however, was soon dashed to the ground. The family consisted of one old woman, who was supposed to look after the poultry, her daughter, engaged as genaral indoor servant, and her hus- band, who was cook, also their two small children. They all lived in two rooms outside the house, and thought a great deal of themselves, as they were " Christians," the younger woman having been brought up by the family of the Anglican Bishop of Demerara, from whence they had come to Hawaii. Ting was the name of the man, Emily that of 54 SCENKS IN HAWAII. m liB Id his wife, aiul T never heard what name the old woman went by ; Tini^ appeared dehghted to see me, laughing and nodding a great deal ; Kmily likewise beamed on me, and the grandmother kept in the distance with the two children clinging to her, grinning a friendly welcome. The tw^o women were clad in the short full trousers and long jacket made of dark blue linen, fastened with tiny round buttons, common to rill ordinary classes of Chinese women ; the old woman had a blue cloth covering disposed in folds on her head and falling about her face, but Emily's black- locks were arranged in a most complicated coiffure, he!d together by long silver pins and a big comb. Both women had bare feet and wore silver or metal bangles on their arms. Ting was an excellent cook like many of his race, and could make most appetizing dishes out of almost nothing, but his kitchen was best beheld from a distance ! Emily was both lazy and im- pertinent, flatly refusing to do any work at all after two o'clock, and in a few days we found out that they had been merely making use of the house given to them, and had been making their own arrangements to go off as soon as t' jy found they SCENES IN HAWAII. 55 could not do exactly as they liked ; so we parted with no very kind fcelin<^s, and so ended our one experience of Christian Chinese, Christian only in name, I fear. I had profuse offers of help from the daughter of the native minister, Mary Mahoi by name, a tall, stout girl with a very black face and quantities of frizzy black hair ; she bore a good character, and I thought I would try and make a servant out of her ; so I tried and, Hke many others, failed in the attempt. She agreed to come at eight o'clock every morning and stay as long as I wanted her. At the first visit to arrange matters, Mary sat, I should say, for quite two hours looking at me, and saying at intervals in a funny kind of " coaxing way," " I'm awful glad to come and help you ; " my ignorance of the custom of being often obliged to tell a native visitor that it was time to go, pre- venting me from doing what I thought might hurt the girl's feelings, and I was only relieved from my post by the entrance of some one who was more familiar with Hawaiian etiquette. For the first three days Mary appeared punctually, and my hopes ran high ; the fourth morning she did not come till ten o'clock; the fifth her mother sent for 56 SCENES IN HAWAII. I I her long before her work was done, and after that, the novelty of her situation having worn off, her days were scattered over broad intervals, and I was obliged to own that native " help " was beyond me ! Mary would go off to a wood close by and make long wreathes of ferns and flowers and I would find them disposed gracefully about the table and over the toilet glass. One day when I was in what is called in Island parlance a " great pilikia," meaning trouble of any description, the Chinese cook having run off, Mary promised, in answer to my pathetic appeals, that she would come without fail ; but not a bit of it ; she never appeared until three days afterwards, when I saw her in a dirty holoku and bare feet, coming in the back verandah looking very sheepish, and on my asking her the reason of her non-appearance, she replied her " mother had company ; " evidently their com- pany was of infinitely more importance than my wishes, so I gave up the idea for ever of being able to implant the word "duty " in that direction, though Mary and I were always great friends, and she wept freely when I told her we were going away. I took great interest in her, giving her books to read and neat articles of attire to put on her fat person, with- out much effect, however, as all her pocket money i SCENES IN HAWAII. 57 went in silver bangles, rings, etc., which she always brought to shew me. One day I met her walking up the plantation holding a large parasol over her head, which was extremely funny, as the sun does not exist that a native cannot enjoy with impunity. Every few months Mary used to bring one or two hats for the gentlemen, made by herself from the tassel of the sugar cane, and very light and nice they were. She had two sisters married to white men, mechanics, and was very anxious to be the bride of another herself, but I fear her wish was never realized. Many native women do marry white men, but the custom is not so frequent now as it was some time ago. Chinamen also marry native wives, and are generally very good to them, giving them ser- vants, horses and all necessaries of comfort to Hawaiians, poi, fish, etc. A Chinaman who had a large " store " a few miles from Kilauea, wherein he did a large trade in the dearly loved forbidden fruit of the native, viz., whiskey and gin, married an extremely pretty half-white girl who was known as " Carry," and Mary came one day to tell me of the festivities which were to celebrate the wedding. The young lady was to be married at her future n irr 58 SCENES IN HAWAII. I home, and the bridegroom was to give a right royal feast, for which the most extensive prepara- tions were being made ; a pavilion, or lanai as it is called, was erected for the cereinony, and vast quantities of roast pig, fish, cooked and uncooked, sweet potatoes, poi, all the delicacies known were to be displayed. Mary's father was to officiate in the Hawaiian language, as Chinese nearly all speak that tongue as well as their own lingo. " And what will Carry wear, Mary ? " ■' Oh, a beautiful white satin holoku trimmed with white lace, and a long train, all tied back like the Alii's (white chief's) dress." " Dear me," I said, knowing the high prices asked for the simplest dress, "and how much will she pay for it ? " " Eighty dollars, ma'am," said Mary, " and Carry has got a black silk holoku and a red one." " Why, a regular trousseau," I said. " Has Carry got a lot of money } " " No, ma'am," said Mary, grinning to shew all her big white teeth ; " Ah Sam (the Chinaman) /le give it all." " What, before he marries," I cried. " Yes, ma'am," said Mary, chuckling greatly at my aston- ishment, " and xA.h Sam /le give all the luau too, and he have Carry's father and mother to live with him, SCENES IN HAWAII. 59 too." An accommodatinL;- husband, I thouj^ht ; for I had seen Carry's mamma, who was a huge, fine- looking native, not one who would be very likely to do very much for herself or anyone else. Carry was quite a ])icture, as we wDuld meet her riding in a deep Mexican saddle, wearing a bright crimson holoku, a straw hat wreathed with flovers, perched on the top of a small, well shaped hea'' and a big lei of leaves round her shoulders. She was a very haughty looking damsel, and very rarely vouch- safed a smile in return for our aloha. Ah Sam was not an ideal bridegroom in his appearance, being fat and greasy, wearing his hair cut in a fringe on his forehead and a long queue. He sent me a present of some chickens at the time of the wedding (probably repaying himself from my poultry yard.) Mary having failed us so lamentably, I was obliged to revert to the services of Chinese, and many odd experiences we had. Portuguese make good servants when trained, but there are not enough of them, and they were good labourers in the field, so my trials of that nation were few. A man called Manuel da Souza, and his wife Jivita were bright examples of thrift, honesty and cleanliness. I taught Souza easily so that he tl I ' 60 SCENES IN HAWAII. V- I: became a most excellent, faithful servitor to the time of our dei)arture, filling up the gaps left by the many Chinamen, (who would run away at a moment's notice) with the utmost cheerfulness. Victorina was a Portuguese of immense size and strength, and would come and help me when- ever asked, and has often sent messages through Souza, (from whom we have heard more than once) to the " Signora." Again, a German woman, Dorotea, was a capital servant, and she was very loth to leave us, but her husband wa:3 determined to try his fortune in New Zealand, so with many tears on Dorotea's part she had to go with him. • After Ting and his family had departed, our next experiment was " Charlie," — a raw hand out of the fields, but he wished to go back to the field work soon He spoke very broken English, and when he had to go off to the baker on the planta- tion, would always tell me he ** was going to get bled ! " ' Ah See followed him, and was with us nearly a year. A most excellent servant was Ah See, a funny-looking little fellow, very quick and active JL Ai-tAi m SCENES IN HAWAII. 61 and cooking the plain food attainable, in such a way as to be reaUy deHcious at times. He had a keen sense of the ridiculous, and I was always in doubt as to whether the mistake he made in his cooking one evening was done on pur- pose, or as a bit of fun on his part to provoke us. We were expecting two strangers to dine with us, and as on these occasions, one has frequently to depend on what Americans call " canned goods," I told Ah See to open a tin of curried fowl and serve it with the rice, which only a Chinaman can cook properly. These curries were always in tins covered with green paper, and Ah See knew their appearance perfectly. In the storeroom on another shelf I had put away some half dozen of " cherry tooth paste" which compound was much affected by one of the members of our household. These were white china pots, as unlike the tins of curry as could well be imagined. Our friends arrived, and the inevitable beef hav- ing been removed, I was thinking the curry would be an agreeable change, and was pleased at the appearance it presented, when Ah See brought the dish in, with the limes and chutney all de rigueury and put it down with a grand flourish, and then G2 SCENES IN UAWAII. )' li; stood beside his master's chair, vvitli liis usual demure look of attention. 1 was talking; at the time the plate was put before me, and at first did not notice anything peculiar, but on tasting, oh, horrors ! the first mouthful, it was evident some- thing was wrong. I turned the rr.ass over, and looked at it again and suddenly found what ? " Cherry tooth paste ! " I said with a gasp, " Ah See, what did you take the curry out of?" He made a kind of jump to the door, which opened on the verandah, rushed into the kitchen, and brought back the empty china pot ! "Yea Missee, yes Missee, you see cully all the same " — his face distorted by the true Chinese grin, quite charmed at his own handiwork. We felt sure Ah See meant the whole thing as a delightful practical joke, though he would not allow it, but the expression of his face I shall never for- get. There was nothing to do, of course, but to scold and laugh — our friends joining in heartily. New Year is the great Chinese festival. It begins with the first moon in January, and every one who employs Chinese is obliged to give in to the universal custom, and allow their servants to go off for three days at least. 8CKNK8 IN HAWAII. G.J One clay, the first of the festival, Ah See made his appearance dressed in the most ultra fashion- able way. Someone had ^iven him a white linen waistcoat which he had carefully buttoned over the white full coat usually worn by Chinamen ; on top of this he had a wadded [garment of blue silk with large sleeves ; white trousers much too long for him, were turned up in several folds above his ankles, displaying the heavy shoes of embroidered felt ; his head well shaved, and his queue wrapped neatly round it. But to crown the toilet he had got somewhere a very high stiff collar which he was endeavouring to fasten on a refractory button ; having at last succeeded, he displayed himself with pride, shewing also a large silver locket which dangled at a long chain, at his waistcoat, and strutting round like a small bantam, he assured me he was, " AUee same as Melican man ! " and went off beaming with complacency. One day he brought me a small lacquer v\ork-box containing some eggs which had a very queer look, almost blue white, and on taking one up I found it quite solid. Ah See said they were " Salt eggs," and " welly good." I gave them back, and that even- ing the whole house was pervaded with a most awful odour, horrible ! Ah See had been eating H «i li 64 SCENES IN HAWAII. these salt cg^s, which were nothin\1? '%^ % ^^1% vV 78 SCKNKS IN HAWAII. able to sleep without fear cS the rapacious little destroyer uncloinL;- their labour of months. A sunset at Manalei was wonderfully beautiful, as it sank gradual!)' into the depths of the ocean, the valley's mouth beini^ <.\uc west ; and at the time of the Ja\a eruption the after-j^dow extended for miles over the country. The first time we saw it we were six miles awa}' from Manalei, and could see only the ridge of mountains which hid it from our view. We thought the deep red glare must mean that there was some terrible conflagration on the plantaticjn, and were immensely relieved to find that that terror of the planter, fire, was not the cause; but our friends told us that as they watched the crimson glow flooding the sea and mountains with colour, they were equally sure that Honolulu itself must be entirely in flames. It lasted for days, almost weeks, and the natives were terror-stricken, believing that some terrible judgment must be coming on them ; but as days went on, and no harm did approach, they, with characteristic indifference, forgot all about the freak of nature. The native superstition is very great, as no doubt all aboriginal superstition must be; but there is one thing which— one must say so from personal 'I lift SCENES IN HAWAII. 79 experience on our own part — is most extraordinary, and I can imagine that some of my readers will scarcely credit what I have to tell. As' the death of a high chief approaches, a swarm of tiny red fish invariably come about the harbour of Honolulu or his birthplace. At no other time do they appear. During our stay in the islands the three last great chiefs of the line of Kamehameha died, and each time, just before their death, did the swarm of fish come, reddening the waters till they looked like blood. The first to die was I'rincess Ruth (Keeliko- lani), a woman of enormous stature, and extraordin- ary plainness of appearance. She had been ill for some time, and had been under the influence of her native Kahunas, or praying doctors, to such an extent that she had made a journey to the foot of Mauna Loa,on Hawaii intending to be carried up the mount- ain to sacrifice white chickens and pigs to the burn- ing lake, thereby hoping to appease the wrath of the Goddess Pele, who is supposed even yet to be the presiding Deity of the Volcano. On arriving at the mountain, however, it was found that Her Royal Highness' enormous bulk quite precluded the hope of getting up herself, so she was obliged to have the sacrifice made by proxy, sending some of her numerous retinue to perform the rites; but im . >- 80 SCENES IN HAWAII. I '■ l! I of no avail, as some time later she died. Mrs. Pan- hahi Bishop was the ne.xt to follow : she was a half- white, but 'on her mother's side was a direct descend- ant of Kamehameha I. She was a very handsome woman, and of ^reat wealth, holding large properties in the islands. She had married a Mr. Bishop, an Englishman and a banker. Their home in Mono- lulu was a very beautiful one, with lovely gardens, and the house itself a perfect museum of Hawaiian curiosities. Mrs. Bishop's death was almost unex- pected, but the deadly swarm of red fish came into the harbour, again the herald of disaster. The last death was indeed a grievous calamity, for with Queen Emma expired the last of her race ; she was the last lineal descendent of Kamehameha I., her own son dying at an early age. Queen Ennna was adored by the natives, and she might well be, tor she made herself almost poor by her constant charities among them ; and she supported many of them entirely herself. She also had a lovely house and grounds in Honolulu, but spent most of her time at a country home down by Pearl River, some miles east of the town. The queen was a sweet-faced woman, with a low musical voice, and great dignity of manner. She died very suddenly, indeed with- SCENKS IS HAWAII. 01 out warnini; almost, and this time the red fish made their appearance at Kona on Hawaii, where much of Queen Lemma's early youth was spent; the natives there beini,^ terribly frii^thened, not know- ing; what had befallen, until the mail from Hono- lulu broML^ht the sad news. Her funeral was, of course, accompanied b}- all the rite and customs of Hawaiian royality. Natives came in from all the islands to attend it, and the wailinL,^s were heard without intermission from the boats as they ap- proached Honolulu. Her body was taken at ni^ht (after beiuL^ embalmed) to the old native church — and lay in state for a weel^, with the fea- ther Kahilis wavinij^ continually, the bearers cha- nL^ini; every two hours — six walkin<^ up the aisle in step, and changini; the Kahilis, so that there was no intermission even for a moment, and the native melees, or chants of praise, were sun nines il (;Use o f K \er- lastintr l^urnin"-. ii. The native sujxrstition is somethinL; extraordin- ary to this day. If any member of a family dies in the house, it is soon deserted, as they believe that the spirit of the departed, no doubt in company with "kindred spirits" will take ])ossessi(")n of the hut, irakin"" it uncomfortable for those left behind m th is wor Id of woe. My friend ]\Iary astonished me very much one ^ly. wi th th e accoun t sh e gave me o f a 1 uau. or feast which had been held at the house of a neigh- bour; it appeared that an old man, a grandfather of the flock, fell ill, and, as apparently he could not be cured, the Kahuna ordered a luau to be arranged in a piece of ground close by. This was done, a s SCKNKS IN HAWAir. 89 l.'inai bcin^ hastily constructed of yoi .iULcn leaving thu .I'alaiL'. -Coronation I'ircwork-^. 'Hookupu — (irand laian. -'The Handy and Ids Dancers. --Races at Waikiki. — I'nveiling of tlie Statue of tlie L,Mcal Kannnehanieha. TOURING the month of January, 1883, wc recciv- w ccl a card of invitation of enormous .size, with a )3order of scarlet and i,^o1d, cni^raved in c^old lettcr.s, and with the royal coat of arms emblazoned at the top. It ran thus : "The Kind's Chamberlain is commanded by His Majesty Kinij; Kalakua to invite you to be present at the Coronation ceremonies, to be held at the lolani Palace, on February 12th, at f 1.30 o'clock. C. H. JUDD, Colonel. The direction accompanying this magnificent card assigp.ed us seats in the " Pavilion." We had heard a great deal of the fact that King Kalakua, having reigned some twelve years, now thought it necessary to have himself crowned formally in the i^m 100 SCENKS IN HAWAII. I I presence of liis lovin<^ subjects, briiiijiiv^ on himself a great deal of abuse from those in opposition to liis Government. 15ut His Majesty cahnly pursued the even tenor of his way, l)aying no attention whatever to the flood of ne\vs])aper articles which delui^ed the country every week, heapin<^^ satire, sneers, aiul unkind remarks of all sorts, diversified now and then b)' dii^niified announcements of the different ceremonies which were to take place dur- ing the fortnight of festivities, and also by praise from the Government oriran for his determination to carry through his own wishes. Party politics run high in Hawaii, and the contemptuous expres- sions indulged in by the rival papers, the Pacific Advertiser and the Haivaiiaii Gazette^ ahvays re- minded us of the celebrated journals of Pickwick fame. We determined to take advantage of a lull in the plantation work just then, and accept our invitation. And one beautiful morninij we set off. A friend from San Francisco, who was on a visit to the islands was a welcome addition to gur small party, enjoying all our adventures with all kindness and good humour. Our equipage consisted of a large double rockaway, with leather sides, which could be pulled down for shelter from any of the fiercely sudden rain storms which assail one often I < SCKNKS IN HAWAII. 101 ill the tropics, especially if the road runs near the sea. The carriaj^c was drawn by two stout mules, preferred to horses, as they are so sure-footed, and our way ran uj) and down many a steep i^ulch. Strapped to the b.ick of the carriai^e was a ba^ containiiiLi necessaries for a nii-ht, in case accidents should happen to our con\'e\'ance, or perchance the steamer be dela}'ed in startinj^, a very fortunate provision, as we foui 1 later on. I'ollowin^ us was a native boy on lujrseuack, u ith a lon^, .slout rope tied on his sadtlle, to tlo what the nati\'es call "hookey -up" the ver)' steep hills, a most necessary adjunct to the part}'. The air was fresh and cool when we started, and the dew was lyini; heavily on the ^rass and leaves, the mountains deej) in purple shadow and white mist. We l(3okcd anxiously at the towering;' head of the Prophet, our only " Weather probabilities " but he did not say rain, so we drove across the meadow-like compound, and turned into the loni;' red road with easy minds. The road itself was an excellent one, but a little tiresome at first, for, in the short distance rf a mile after we left our {^ate, we went up and down no less than five i;ulches. All alon<^ our journey the k . ]-■■ If ■ * ." ii 102 SCKNliS IN HAWAII. !}■ li I i ( mountains toWLTcd on onr lij^hl liantl, and the broad Pacific <^lo\vcd and sparkled on the left. The road was not sliady, except at intervals, but the larj^e clumps of Pauhala trees, j:jr.)\vin«;" closer to each other as the\' api)roached the mouniains, made a refreshiiiL; vista of j^reen leaves for the eye to rest on. Some four miles from our <'atc we entered a mah- hours wore only too thankTul to be able to relieve him of the superabundance. Our friend had married the very sweet sister of Bishop Willis, of Honolulu; they always showed us [^reat kindness aud hospi- talitv. and on this occasion we were c^lad to take advantai^e of the luncheon ready for us. The cottage had a wide, shady verandah covered \vith that most prolific creeper, the purple passion flower ; and openinj^s had been cut in the masses of i;reen leaves and tendril, so that one could look out over the brii^ht little i^arden, flanked by handsome red Australian castor-oil trees, and catch a dazzlinf^ <^limpse of the ocean. As in all houses in the island, the sittini;-room was entered at once from the verandah, well protected from mosqu toes by the wire doors and windows. Matting" and ru"s covered the floors, and easy chairs, sofas, tables, large and small ; bookcases well filled, with pictures on the walls, made it all look vei/ pretty and home- like. The dining-^-oom was a little detached from the house, with the kitchen beside, where the China- man, when he chooses, can make the plainest food palatable. The pastor also possessed two cows, and was very proud of the fresh, sweet butter churned, often by his own hand, for himself and his friendsj SCENKS rN HAWAII. 109 by whom it was much a[)prcciatcd ; for, except on the ranches, butter is bad, tinned, and ahnost im- possible to procure. We still had some four miles to go, so wc said *' .MohaH " many, and left to catch our steamer t Ilanamaula, where we supposed it t.) be waitini:^. Judge, however, of our dismay when we learned on our arrival that the boat would leave from Nawilli- willi Hay the next afternoon. Nothing for it now but to foll;)W the Island cusLcjui and beg the hos[)i- tality of the next phmter's house, which we ditl ; and, after driving through cane-fields, and following the road immediatel)- through Lihue plantation, wc fcnmd ourselves driving up a magnificent avenue of royal i)alms whose feathery branches almost formed an arch, which led us to a fine modern house, with innnense verandahs and large, handsome rooms in suites. This house was built almost on the same site as one of the first :nission houses, but that must indeed have been a contrast to the present one. Only the host himself was to be found, his wife and family having gone to Honolulu ; but we were installed in a huge bedroom^ with every luxury of carpets, curtains, books, ornaments, etc., antl with a sitting-room opening from it ; and after a rest — for which I was profoundly grateful — we I I 110 Hf'fSKS IN HAWAII. i I h;i(l ;i substanlial siijjjx-r, served in a (iiiiiii!^-ro(jin all furiiishc'd and inad(.' of ])()Iislicd woods, and were waited on by a coniical-iookinj^ little Japanese. A walk in the j^^arden the next inoniin;^ brought new beauties to iij^ht. ( )ur friends were evidently fornl of flowers, for there was an iniinense variety, and all cultivated to perfection. Such jMnk j.a:raniu!ns I have never seen ; the rose.s wei'e like trees covered with blossoms, and the Norwej^ian ])ines, r(*arinf^^ their dark j^reen branches ainon^ the delicatt- love- liness ()( bkjssoin and colour, hei<^dit(;ii(ine apj^les there flfUirish in. y\t Kona, on I faAaii, tlu -pine apples ;^rf)W in sucli extraordinary jjiofusion on a dry saiid-hank (lose to the sea that an excellent ( .inning eslal)lisiniient was be^un and flourislurd there for souk." lime. At last we said farewell to our kind friei'ids and drove down to the wliarf, where as usual, everyone for miles around had (.on^M'ej^aled to waleh the hleatner off. It lay in the lovely litth.* harbour, whieh, sur- rounded by hij^h, dark rocks, ^^k-ained blue and bright in the sunshine. IVesenJy we were handed into a bii(, rouj.^h <^>J<^, manned by natives, and rowed to the shij/s side, whence, after several ineffeclual efn^rts to reach the swin^in^ ^^an^way, which danced l)ack and loith tantalisinj^ly we were finally landed on the deck of the ship, which was moving- about in a way that pronn'sed us a rouj^h m'^ht, riid alas! we all soon had occasion to know that the promise was fulfilled. After a very stormy, rou^h passage on the little tossing steamer, we came into the beautiful Ilono- lulu harbour (jn a lovely fresh morning. In the ETJB ' I '11 11 11 1 .i ■f 1 I 1 112 SC'ENKS IN HAWAII. liarboiir itself were ikj less than four shii)s of war ; one was her Hrittanic Majesty's Miitifie, two were American, and the other was either Russian or I'^icnch, I for<^et which — I think French, however. They ^ave quite a warlike appearance to the scene, and as one Kui^iish ship had just departed, and a {i:^\w days later the lar^e flaL;shi[) Szviftsitre, with Admiral Lyons on board, anchored just outside the reef, it provoked a remark from our cabman to the effect, " I LTuess it looks as though England means to swamp us here ! " The coronation was to take place in a day or two, and already l)untinLr was beginniiiL^ to be shown, and the i^ardens were in perfection of beauty, after rain, and before any heat liad come to wither them ; the l^ouc^ainvillier was really in extraordinary masses, it seemed to run riot everywhere, from the handsomest mansion to the lowliest hut. At the hotel there were two hu^e pillar-; supportin<^ the double verandah at the back, and from i^round to roof there was a blaze of rich purple colour, quite different from the sickly hue the same plant seems to take in ^greenhouses. The Mexican creeper also was like pink coral spread over the roofs (its favourite clingin<^- place) in profu- sion. This last requires a hot sun, and on some of SCENKS IN' HAWAII. 113 the islands will )iot i^row, hut it makes the houses in Honolulu espeeiall)- attractive in appearance. Our kind friend, the wife of Her Hritannic Majesty's Commissioner, brouL;ht us tickets for excellent places from which to view the coro- nation ceremonies, and asked us to join her l)arty, going to the palace with her, which offer we accepted most gratefully. The next thing was to engage a cab, or "express," as cabs are always designated in Honolulu; the true cab, as we understand the vehicle, is unknown there. A small, covered rockaway, with leather sides, drawn by one horse, is w^hat is invariably used as a public conveyance, and the private carriages are similar in appearance, except that in many cases they are much larger, and require two animals. I must also except the equipage of His Majesty, which was a large English landau, imported direct from London for him, and which, driven by a native coachman, with a small cape of the red and yellow feathers before described added to his trim English livery, and a footman, similarily attired, beside him on the box, presented a very smart appearance, and was always regarded with great interest by the native citizens. The distance being short from the 5 i'' I I I ■ ! I I J-' ill 114 SCKNKS IN HAWAII. hotel to the palace, we were very punctual in our appointment with the frieiuls who were to chape- ron us. We found Iler Hritannic Majesty's Com- missioner and his family party, consisting of his wife and two fair dauL^hters, all in full eveninj^^ dress, the younL;" ladies in white, with feathers de rigucur in their hair, and the Commissioner himself in full diplomatic uniform, his wife in richest black, all on their own pretty verandah. In a few minutes our numbers were increased by the arrival of half-a- dozen officers from the English war ships then in harbour. They were magnificent in full dress naval uniform, which is rarely, if ever worn, only on the occasion of a royal ceremony— -indeed, one of the officers assured me that during the years he had be_n in the navy he was certain he had not worn the full dress more than twice, S(j that the amount of gold lace by which we were surrounded was something truly startling. We approached the palace from a side gate, at which were sentries ready to admit us after leaving the carriaijes. Immediatelv inside the "ate was a broad footpath, strewn with rushes several inches deep ; this led us to the entrance of a kind of coli- seum, whic .1 was built in a half-circle, with tiers of seats facing the front of the palace, where the double SCKNKS IN HAWAII, li:. vcrandalis on c.ich side of tin- !.;riin(l cnlraiicc were l^aily decorated and fitted up w ith cliairs for tlie officials and their families and the diplomatic corps. Directly opposite the entrance doors of tlie palace a broad platform ran out from the to[) step to a \ery pretty pavilion, with o[)jn sides, beautifully painted, and decorated with chains and wreaths of flowers, on which were the throne-like chairs of crimson and gold, with the gorgeous yellow feather robe thrown on one. The pavilion had a pointetl top, udiich was painted in red, white, and blue stripes, present- ing a lovely, tent-like effect, aiul the erection being on a level with the lower verandah, at le.ist six feet from the ground, gave every one a full \'iew of the C(fremony, which was to take place in the pavilion itself As we neared the palace the guards presented arms, and the band struck up the familiar strains of " God Save the Oueen," in accordance with the honour due to our Oueen's representative, and it was delightful to our home-loving hearts to hear it once more, as we had so often in Canada. Our friends, of course, turned off to the left to gain their own seats on the verandah, while we were shown into delightful ones under the cover of the '-m^ ir w IIG SCKNKS IN lEAVVAII. coliseum, and soon found that wc could not liave had better ; above all, we were in the cool shade, which was an inestimable boon c;n the warm July- like day, especially as we were without coverin;,,^ on our heads, our own individual r^arty bein, urn-shaped, on pedestals fully eii^ht feet hii;"h. At hrst sii^ht we all thouL^ht the)' were bronze, but on closer inspection, they proved to be of poli-hed dark wood. Ever)' inch of the surface being most exquisitivcK^ carved in strange figures and animals — a truly r(j)'al gift. On either side of the platform stood a double row of Kahili br:arers, reaching from the palace d(^ors to the lowest step. The Kahilis tliemselves were wonderful to look upon. We were told that iiionths of labour had been bestowed in their manufacture. The staffs were full)^ ten feet high, and half of that s])ace was taker, up b\' the feathers, massed in some curious way on stiff str.iws, .so that nothing could be seen 5' SCKNKS I\ HAWAII. 119 but the wavint^ plumes. Those made of the shining dark, green, and Ijhick cocks feathers and of the beautifid bronze turkevs, were iriarveUous in their effect, while the red, white, and yellow ones were a splendid contrast in colour. The bearers were in a kind of livery of scarlet and black, also wearing high hats ; and capes of the red and yellow fc\'ithers, worked in V)old patterns. The old Kahilis belonging*- to the Roval Family were much smaller, of pure white feathers mounted on sticks of sandal- wood, and tortoise shell, and soni. of these ancient relics were in readiness inside the pavilion. The actual ceremonies of the coronation of King Kalakua and Queen Kapiolani were not short, but I think every one was greatly interested in watching the proceedings, particularly as no one of the spectators knew what was coming next Suddenly the band struck up the Hawaiian national anthem, " Hawaii Ponoi," a very stately march and most melodious, and we knew that the royal procession must be coming. The procession was headed by the inarshal of the kine^dom, with gold staff of office. After him came the chamberlain, in gor- geous attire, and then a page, bearing on a crimson and gold cushion the two crowns, which were high structures of gold and jewels, with crimson velvet li ,. t \, ^i 120 SCEN'S IN IIAWAU. i 1 1 adornments. Other officers of the liousehold fol- lowed, and then came his Majesty, wearini^ a very handsome German uniform in white and blue colourin^js. Ribbons and different orders crossed his broad chest ; he wore no covering on his head. A little behind the King came Queen Kapiolani, in a superb dress of white silk or satin, and court train of crimson velvet, most magnificently em- broidered in gold the pattern being taro leaves, the national emblem. Her Majesty's coiffure was very high, and a veil depended from the comb, which seemed to add also to the height. The train was borne bv several ladies-in-waitino^ all costumed alike in white satin petticoats and bodices and trains of black velvet, a most harmonious combination of colour altogether. Almost immediately behind them walked Princess Kaiulani (or Victoria), a pretty little lady of seven years old, and heir-apj)arent to the kingdom, attired in bright blue, with her dark curls tied by a ribbon of the same hue, and carrying some flowers in her hands, Kaiulani was the daughter of the Princess Like-Like, a sister of the King, who died a few months ago (His Majesty's eldest sister, Lilliokilani, having no family, the little Kaiulani is in the direct succession to the throne). SCENES IN HAWAII, 121 The other members of the royal family followed in their order of rank, the mother and aunt of the Httle princess being most superbly dressed, one in a satin of crushed strawberry colour, covered with glittering embroidery of every hue, and Princess Lydia (who attended the Jubilee in London with Queen Kapiolani) in a Parisian costume of cream satin, with the front of the dress made into little puffs, each puff being held by a small gold bird. Amidst all this moving mass of colour the pure white surplice of the Rev. Mr. Mackintosh, rec- tor of the cathedral, who had dwelt many years in the islands, seemed by its familar simplicity to give dignity to the whole bright scene. The procession filed along the platform and passed into the pavilion, the ladies-in-waiting and some of the household retiring to the verandah ; the band ceased, and the familar tones of the rector rose on the soft air, reading first in P^nglish, and then in Hawaiian, the service, which was neatly printed in a small pamphlet form, and given to all who chose to read. Duriner the service, certain, ancient customs seemed to be observed, such as presenting the King with a sceptre, placing a ring on his hand, throwing 122 SCENKb IN HAWAII. « ■ (i : the beautiful fejither robe over his shoulders, and waviiiL^ of the royal kahilis. Finally, after several prayers had been said and a hymn suhl^, the audience a^ain rose, and the Kin<4, also stand- iiiL;", placed the crown on his own au<^ust head. Another prayer, with a response from His Majesty, and then he turned to place the otlier crown on the head of his consort ; but — das for royal dii^nity ! — the Queen's coiffure was hliih and elaborate, and apparently no thou^^dit had been q;iven to the crown, The audience \\atched with intense interest, while hairpins, comb, and veil were beini;- removed. In vain ! the crown would not fit, and in desperation, and apparently in no very ^ood temper, the King made a final effort, and literally crammed the insii^niia of royalty down on Her Majest\''s temples. Another pra\'er and response, the blessin<^" pro- nounced bv the rector, and a^ain were heard the strains of " Hawaii Ponoi '" (Hawaii for Ever), and the Kini^ took up the sceptre, and with the crown on his head, and the feather robe hani^ing from his shoulders. His Majesty led the way from the pavi- lion into the palace — kahilis waving — band playing — cheers rending the air. Pacing majestically along, the crown just a littk^ on one side of the royal h^ad, the scene of the funny King and Queen ■!i !: SCKNKS T\ HAWAII. 123 of '* Alice in Wonderland " came irrcsistibl\' to m\' mind as I watched the burl)- form of Kaiakua I. marching alonc^, his l)lack curly hair makin;j^ the pose of the rich gold circlet even more remarkable. One would not have been astonished to have heard the counterpart of the order, " Off with his 'or her) head," issuing from the royal lips. I think, though, that it was the Queen who was the blood-thirsty one in "Alice," and certainly none could connect such an order with the kindly countenance of Kapiolani, who walkei behind her r<)}'al spouse, beaming good nature and hap[)ii\ess on all near her. Unfortunately, the King, having realized his ambition of being crown :d, thought it was only proper he should have a court, and also a new table of precedence; and, as for fifteen years certain people had enjoyed a distinct rank, they naturally looked upon such ;is an Individ iul right ; and when these new rules were inagurated, the result can easily be imagined to have been dissatisfaction and grumbling in all quarters. In a few days invitations were issued for a ball to be held in the Palace, as an im[)ortant feature of the coronation festivities. The cards were much the same as those for the coronation itself, rather HT 124 SCENES IN HAWAII. :: ( S i &.i liirj^cr, perhaps, and with a ^old crown restiny," on a crimson cushion cnLjravcd at the top. All the younij^ people were in eac^er expectation of the en- joyment of the occasion, as it was the first really larii^e ball cjivcn by the King. On the evening appointed we drove to the same gate used by the people the day of the coronation, but instead of being open, as at that time, to a rush strewn pathway, we found ourselves in a pretty passage lined and laid with crimson cloth, and flowers everywhere. In this we were received by an officer of the household, who conducted us to the entrance of the large space which was enclosed by a tent of enormous size in front of the palace. The pretty pavilion which had been used for the coronation ceremonies was moved to one side, and in this the Hawaiian band was discoursing sweet music, and a state quadrille was going on opposite to the entrance door, Mis Majesty, in full uniform, dancing with the wife of the head official. The Queen, I think, was in a seat arranged for the royalties, looking on, as I fancy Her Majesty did not care for European dances, though the Princess Like-Like was a graceful and accomplished dancer, and the King himself waltzed beautifully. The steps leading up to the verandahs were covered with SCENES IN HAWAII. 125 red cloth, and the palace hall and reception rooms were a blaze of light, the verandahs being provided with comfortable seats in every direction. We walked about, and looked with much interest at the many beautiful costumes worn by the ladies, which were interspersed by the brilliant uniforms of the royal household, and also of the many officers of the English and American war ships which were at that time in the harbour. We found many of our friends, and the dancing was delightful, the band rendering exceptionally good music. All went on merrily for some time and the fears of rain were almost naught, when suddenly a few drops were heard pattering gently on the roof of the huge tarpaulin covering. In a short time some found their way through, and pre- sently little pools were formed on the floor, in between which the dancers endeavored to wend their way. Still the rain poured steadily on, and in a short time the cloth on the steps leading up to the palace entrance was soaked the covering not having been extended over the steps to the tent roof, and so the open space afforded thereby was soon streaming with the ram. Ladies with delicate satin shoes looked askance at the shining stairs, which, covered with baize, at one ijT I 20 S(JKNKS IV HAWAII. t '4' 1 tiiTic scarlet, were iu)\v black and sociden. What was to be done ? Some of the younger people made a rush and Lrained the haven of refiiLie, but those who wore trained L,^o\vns Iuiiil; back, dodi^nnj^ the now fast-fall iiiL;" shower of dnjps. /\t last one lad)' couraL,^eously set an example by acceplini; the offer of a chair, which, raised by four stalwart arms, was carrietl at a quick run up to the vestibule ; others followed, and in a few minutes the tent was cleared of the ij^uests, wh(^ found tliemselves trans- ported as if by maijic to the brilliant rooms of the palace, where the beautiful dark polished floors of- fered even a more temi)tini^ field for the dancers than the tempor.iry one of the pavilion. The hall of the palace was very lar<4e, and (jblonc^r in shape, with a handsome dark staircase at the far end, which ran straight up and then branched off rii^ht and left. The floor was dark ; on either side, rani^ed aloni^ in stands, were the magnificent feather kaJiilis, which had l)een dis[)layed at the coron.ation ; bright, c(^loured carpets were laid from the door to the foot of the stairs, and brass and cr)'stal chande- liers shed a flood of light on the scene. On the right hand were two sets of large double doors, opening into the reception room, in which the SCENKH IN JIAVVAM. 127 kiii!J was accLisloiiicd U) Liivc audiences Uj dihlin- finished visitors, a lar^c, lon^ajiartiiK'nt witli polish- ed floor of dark native woods, hui^e windows ()i)eii- inL,^ on tlie verandahs, iiuiii,^ witii crimson drai)eries, and very beautiful aiul unitjue cornices of brass made to re[)resent the ancient Hawaiian spears, crossed at the tops cjf each curtain. Brilliantly lighted as it was, it was a splendid ball room, and the dancint^ was resumed as merrily as thoui^h no disturbini^ clement had occurred to mar the enjoyment of the evcnmg. Later on we went to supper, crossing' the former ball room — deserted now, but rendered less un- comfortable by the cessation of the rain, — whicli opened into another long, narrow inclosure, built specially f(;r the occasion, with a table in th.e form of a T, at the top of which the king and his party sat. (jrood things were in abundance, and huge bowls of punch, etc., were scattered about — the silver and glass were all nice — and flowers everywhere. Of course there was grumbling, but as in the most civilized circles, that is not an unusual thing ; it was not to be wondered at that all were not satis- fied, though no trouble was spared on the part of I -A ! (, f .i , I 128 SCKNES IN HAWAII. the King and his assistants to make everything go smoothly. A very funny incident occurred later in the even- ing, which was witnessed by myself and a few friends, showing, in a measure, the dislike, and even inability, of the Polynesian natives to bear the re- strictions of civilisation for any length of time. They can endure them up to a certain point, but when weariness sets in they seem obliged to suc- cumb to their own longing for ease and carelessness. A number of us were seated on the broad couches ranged on cither side of the hall, talking over the events of the evening, when our attention was caught by three figures coming down the great staircase, in the full glare of light, and which looked so at variance with the pretty evening costumes about us that involuntarily we all stopped our talk- ing, and gaped in astonishment at the sight of a young native woman, clad in a bright scarlet holoku a straw hat, with a wreath of flowers round it, set on the side of her head, a wreath of leaves round her shoulders, and bare feet. Following her came an older, stouter lady, with a long loose garment of some dark stuff drawn carelessly round her, carry- ing a native straw hat in her hand, and with feet 1 1^ i SCKNKS IN HAWAII. 129 thrust into Ljalochcs. A momentary pause of astonislimeiit on our i)art, and then some one said, with a L;as[) : "The (Jueen!" and vvc all rose to our feet antl made obeisance, as Iler Majesty calm- ly and smihn^dy returned our salutations, and tinnini^ round at the foot of the stairs, marched off, r)llo\ved by another lady in waiting, costumed much as the one in advance, and made her way out of the back entrance, which opened directly on the {grounds, in the far end of which her own house lay. The fact was that the Queen, unaccustomed as she was to the discomfort of the very fashionabiC l'2uropean costume in which she had appeared in public for many hours, had, after endarini,^ it as loni;" as she could, madi: up her mind to disappear into private life. After changing her gorgeous robes for the easy garments she always wore, she was no doubt happy in the idea of eluding observ- ation, and it was a mere accident that she was seen, as every one was supposed to be in the supper room. 1 was intensely amused at the sight, as it seemed to make one realize, as nothing else could have done, that the display and ceremony was, after all, but a thin veneer of outward show of civilisation laid on the native character of lazy ease, wit i which 9 i 1 w 130 SCKNKS IN HAWAII. Hawaiians r.rc so iiiiprci^iiatctl. luiuall)' were we struck by tlic :aliii indifference of the Ouccn on bein^L; tliscoverecl in her undii^nificd apparel. " A Queen once, always a Oueen," must have been the motto whicli sustained Wc.v Majesty. A few ni<;hts after tlie b.dl, we were bidden to witness !?ome fireworks, which were displa\-ed in the palace grounds, a treat whicii had l)een pro- vided for the natives mainly by the <^ood nature of the Kini^, and to hear the deej) drawn " Oh's" and "All's" of tiie hundreds of Plawaiians when they saw a L^rand rocket, or Catharine wheel, for the first time in their lives, and their child-like deli<^ht at a " rocking ship" made of gaslights ingeniously amalgamated, must in itself have been a pleasant reward for 1 1 is Majesty's kind thought. That evening the palace was gaily illuminated, and open to all visitors who choose to take advantage of the opportunity afforded of inspecting the beautiful rooms. The King was, as usual, kindness itself to one and all. Another feature of the homage paid to King Kalakua was the " llukoopu," a very ancient cus- tom, but to the performance of which none but natives were admitted ; th> ■ was the laying at the ■ SCKNKS IN HAWAII. 131 Kind's feet presents of every deseriptioii b\' every native who coukl i)()ssibly do so, aiul the majority of these presents were mainly of eatables, alive and dead, cooked and uncooked. I'ii^s, chickens, fish, notably the squid or cuttle fish, deli<^ht of the Hawaiian appetite, pink t.iro (i^rown for and eaten only by high chiefsj poi of many kinds, bread fruit, water melons, sweet potatoes, native fruits, such as mangoes, cocoa nuts, alligator pears, limes, etc., leis of feathers and shells, calabashes, rolls of tapa cloth, mats of every degree of fineness, all those were taken in such quantities, that the courtyard of the palace was heaped with the gifts offered. The greatest kindliness and jTood nature seemed to prevail everywhere, and certainly the news which comes to us at this time of the confusion and re- volt which is being ex[)erienced \w Honolulu just four years after the carnival of the coronation seems hardly credible to those who remember the bright- ness of that period in the Hawaiian capital. Shortly after the coronation ball had taken [)lace and we \vere wondering " what next," we received invitations to a large " Luau " or feast, to be held at lolani J\dace. The cards were quite as elaborate as those for the coronation itself, and we were asked :H *:i' l.'^2 SCENES IN HAWAII. I to present ourselves at twelve o'clocck in the day most fortunately it was a brilliantly beautiful clay, the sun shiniiii^ bri Luau, which, strange as it may appear, actually went on for hours; it had been goiu''" on for some time when we were there at twelve o clock, and it was still progressing late in the afternoon. On the verandah of the palace were Oueen Kapiolani, Princesses Lilliokolani, LikeLike, and Kaiulani, surrounded by a large suite and many officials. Presently an aide-de camp, in a handsome German uniform, almost all white, was sent to ask us to go up to the piazza, and so we pr(^sently found ourselves in the court circle. Her Majesty was in the centre, attired in a beautiful holoku of rich white satin, whose flowing, cuni)le fjlds suited her much better than her gorgeous coronation robes, and she looked much more comfortable, giving us her kindly smile of welcome as usual. The little heir-ap[)arent looked pretty in a crimson velvet and pink costume, with a huge Kate Greenaway bonnet framing lu r dark eyes. Many of the white ladies i ill 136 SCENES IN HAWAII. had a.s.sumed the holoku in compHment to the natives, many in richest material ; but all paled before the wonderful tints worn by the wife of one of the Cabinet Ministers, who was sittin^^ close to us. She was a remarkably hand- some woman, a full native, very dark brown skin, enormous in stature and size, but with a really beautiful head and face, the features perfectly regular, of a half sad, almost statuesque expression. Round her shapely head was a wreath of various- coloured roses, but her dress vas marvellous, the brightest yellow satin, shot with purple and trimmed with quantities of green — a brilliant grass green, too ! It was as near one's idea of a bird of paradise as could be ; a large lace collar lay on her shoulders, which was no doubt the finishing touch. llie whole combination made one's eyes fairly blink ! During the afternoon some ancient spear dances took place, mingled with others, and during the cvenincT we heard the heathenish sounds of the small native drums, which invariably accompany the Hula-hula dances. The professional dancers (of whom the best come from Hanalei) are regularly trained by an extra- ordinary looking man, who is known by the name SCENES IN HAWAII. 137 of " The Dandy ; " he is, I think, a half-white, and tlie aim of his existence seems to be to make himself as conspicuous in appearance as possible. To this end, his costumes are of the most ilashy kind, and quite different from those worn by ordinary individuals. I saw him one afternoon in Honolulu, attired all in purple velvet, with a ij;reen waistcoat ; the coat was similar in shap: to an ordinary dress coat, but with unusually lon^ tails, and there appeared to be some i^old embroidery about his sleeves. A ridiculously high collar, with a stock and a tall white hat, com- pleted this most extraordinary — what ? one cannot call it dress ! I believe these Hula dances are a relic of the barbarism practised by the Hawaiians, and am told they are extremely coarse and un<^raceful in every way ; the Government at times make spas- modic efforts to suppress them, but hitherto with little result. The girls are usually ugly, and wear a curious kind of short dress, drawn up through wreaths of leaves which are worn around the hips, and their bare ancles have small fur or feather rings ; the music consists of a small round drum which gives a monotonous sound, beaten r'W \ ■ ',. !l ii 138 SCENRS IN HAWAII. continuously by the dancers or others placed for that nurposfc. The coronation festivities were closed with some races, wliich took place on the pretty race-course at Waikiki, about two miles from Honolulu, and we enjoyed the fun of it all immensely. The officers of the ships in the harbour <^ot up a gentlemen's race on any scratch animals which could be 'j^ot to[;ether, rei^ardless of size, ag'c, or wxMi^ht ; which gave an interest to the friends looking on. A charming luncheon in the tent of the King's cham- berlain, at which His Majesty King Kalakua attended in person, gave us an additional pleasure, and having heard the strains of " Hawaii Ponoi " from the band, we drove back to the town, pausing a moment to see the start of a fine four-in-hand, coached in a masterly fashion by an ex-officer of Her British Majesty's cavalry. We also saw the unveiling of a very fine bronze statue of Kammehameha I., which was placed in front of the Hall of Leti^islature, The i^reat chief was a man of enormous strength and grand appear- ance, and the statue shows the tall, manly figure clad in the malo ; the ancient feather robe falling from the shoulders. On the head was the head- SCKNES IN HAWAII. 13'J dress assumed by chiefs goin<^^ to battle, the form ahnost precisely the same as that of the ancient Greek helmet. This was also made of tlie invarii'.bly wrapped up! When a low fex'cr broke out, we often visited them, to induce them to take the bitter quinine necessary, and would always try to show by ex- ample that fear would not make them well. One case only of typhus came. The quarters are divided up into small and lari^e rooms, and all connected with a verandah, in which they chiefly live, taking their meals on the floor, and always sewing on tlie door steps. Their fire places are in front, made of bricks or stones built round holes dug out of the ground, and sometimes roofed over by rougli boards. The men are incessant smokers, and .coming down each Saturday night for their money, will talk and snioke for hours if allowed to do so. The planter has to try and settle disputes, but SCENICS IN HAWAII. 145 bcin^ of (in intensely excitable nature, they like to carry their differences into tlie law courts, and* if the " Sii^nor " decides his case aL;ainst them, they show their disapprobation by the most outlandisii shouts and i^^estures, on one occasion t^'oini;" through the form of han^in^ their master, makini; his ^nave, and finally stampin^L,^ on it with L,n-eat ener^fy. However, their excitement ^oes as cpiickly as it comes, and a few minutes afterwards they will be as jolly as possible, havini^ fort^otten all tlieir animosity. Public holidays occur frequently, and the Por- tufTesc take a ^^reat many relii^ious ones also, Christmas and New Year's Days were usiiered in by the glee siuL^in*:;- and serenadinij;- of the natives, who roam about to all the houses from 1 1 p.m. to 3 a.m. Germans sang too, and swcetl)- enough, though the hours chosen were rather inconven'cnt. On Christmas and New Years Days, the Planters used to get up races of all kinds, on foot and on horseback ; and one year we had an exhibition of lassoing by the most expert Spaniola on the Plant- ation, Manoa by name, a very good-looking native ; he threw the lasso with great grace and dexterity, trying it on some friendly Englishmen who offered lO " m. in m U6 SCENES IN HAAVAII. i. I ! I i i themselves as victims, for the ladies benefit, they ridinf,^ as fast they could induce their steeds to go, and Manoa f^alloping after and making the broad loop fall round the waist of his quarry with the greatest ease possible, amid shouts of applause from the bystanders. The natives also picked up half dollars from the ground, sweeping past us at full gallop without stopping, which was very pretty to watch. The Portugese were fond of arraying themselves in white, with immense paper heads of animals on their shoulders, and bringing out a May pole, with numbers of bright ribbons, would go through regular old-fashioned Morris dances to some music of their own They also danced what they called " fandangoes," a kind of tarentella, and were very fond of them on these occasions. Kammehameha Day, and the King's birthday were the native holidays, and in old times they liked to give exhibitions of §urf bathing, or swim- ing out on the top of a huge wave, armed with a l)lank, and then riding back on the crest of the wave, much as we do with our toboggans on the snow hills. But as with so many old native prac- SCICMKS IX HAWAII. 147 ticcs surf riding is rapidly going out, aud only seldom now can it be seen. On all plantations good schools are provided by the Government, which also appoints the school teacher. At Kilauea there w^as a large building given to the Plantation by some kind donor for a church, and as it was too large for our scanty con- gregation, part of it was divided off into the school, and Hawaiian and English taught ad. lib. Pastor Mahoi had a - a bright silk kerchief and some little presents for my [god- child, we departed. We had many Scotch friends on the plantation : Our Mana'j^er was from Alid-L(»thian ; the doctor, sugar-boiler ; school nuister and minister combined; and head blacksmith, were all Scotch ; also the engineer, who brought out and controlled the great steam plough, which did such capital work in the fields ; and it was curious to hear the broad soft Scotch accent, amongst the many dialects and lamruaijes which assailed one's ear on a walk through the plantation, English, Portugese, German, Native, Japanese, Norwegian, Chinese, made up a great medlc)' ; and now and then would be heard a French word or so. There was a large restaurant in connection with the store for the convenience of the young white lunas, and the fare was generally good, the cook, Scharsh by name, being much above the average, quite a professional in fact. A small English club was got up at one time ; it flourished fairly well, but at different periods would be dissolved, and then re-assembled ; the members SCENKS IN HAVVAFF. If)! i^ave one or two little dances, especially when any lady visitors were to be had to swell the limited number of fair ones. Then riding parties were (T,reatly in vogue, by afternoon, and by moonlight ; sometimes to the top of what was known as the old Crater, though no tradition survives as to its ever having been active. The Kilauea plantation was beautifully situated with the mountains on one side, the river running through it, and the Crater hill rising above the sea, which bounded the other line. A broad road ifin through from the church to the store for nearly half a mile, with the mill and numerous rows of quarters on either side. Some of the cottages of the better class were quite pretty with bright gardens and verandahs covereci with creepers of every kind. When anyone leaves from one cause or another, everything possible is sold by auction, and that is a gala day for the people, especially natives, who fairly love the excitement of buying in that wa)', and will spend the whole day looking on at others doinngland. We had many and welcome visitors to Wailele, but none more so than the officers of " The Constance." The Manager's home was also close to the river, which being very dark in colour just there, gave it the name of Waiuli Hall, or "House by the black water." There was always a great dinner given in the handsome dining room at ■ mmmm SCEXKS [N HAWAII. 155 Cliristmas timc^to all who could come, and the hospitah"t}' of WaiuH was well known in the island, the garden was lovely, slopino- down to the river bank, with a lari;e fountain round which grew Terns and red ginger in profusion ; and a border of large white sj)ider lilies was beautiful to look on, and delicious in scent The view from the veran- dah steps was charming, the river \yinding down 'til lost in the sea, and the varied tints of the luxur- iant foliage completing the picture. I: •inc. SCKNKS IN HAWAII. 8 CllAPTJ'.R X. ()|i(.iiiii_t; of tin- Lei;! -la In re in Ilonolulu— Ceremony -I li'- Hd'atc" - — The Wonderful Inlci prcter Nc-ws Klics Fast- -My r'ii>t and only Scorpion -Oilur Insects — Visit lo the Market. *TX a subsecfuent visit to tlic i^ay capital of Ifonn- ^ liihi, I experienced two tliiiii^s, of a \\iclel\' dif- ferent character liowever. One was the opcnii'ij^^ of and the debate at tlie Hawaiian Lei;islatui"e ; the other was my first and only introduction to a scorpion ! First, surcl}', should come the cerenionx' per- formed in pers(jn b\' His Majesty. The debates are carried on b)' the reverend and grave Seii;neurs in a large, handsome room in- the Public Huildings, in front of which stands the really splendid statute of Kamamhamha I., and on tix appointed da\-, of which we had been made awara by tickets " h'or the Moor" liaving been most kindly presented me, in company with Her Britannic Majesty's Commissic^ner, and Vice-Consul, we drove up to the great door through quite an avenue of King's Guards outside, and passed through a line SCENES IN UAWAU. 157 of K.ihili bearers with j^orgcous feathered eapes, inside the long hall, in waitinj^- fc^r the royal family. The room was thronj^ed with all the elite of Honolulu, most of the ladies in haiulsome morninir dress. We had excellent seats for obsej-vinijf, which we did with all our eyes, h'acin^i;- us was a l-iri^^e dais, with a throne-lik'e chair and canoi)y, all cover- ed with crimson and i^old. To the ri^iit and left of the dais were arm chairs for the luch'-es (jf the Supreme Court and the Diplomatic Corps. The JudL,^es, four in number, were arrayed in robes of a. deep maroon satin, trimmed with fur of some kind. I heard they were like those assumed b\' the Jud^ijes in Switzerland, but cannot vouch for the fact. The British Commissioner, Amerfcan Minister, (or in exact form, I should reverse that order) ; the Foreign Consuls and Staff were in umTorm; and all the ladic '^ad donned their bri<;htest array. The wife of the Portugese Consul looked particularly attrac- tive in a pale heliotrope satin gown draped with a Spanish mantilla, which was worn with natural grace. Now we heard " Hawaii Ponoi," and presently the King and his sister, Princess Lydia, preceded by the Chamberlains and Kahili bearers, came in and took up tlieir station in front of the throne, and while \vc \;:A iM! V 158 SCKNKS IN II A WAIT, lilfi all stood, His Majesty read tlic speech, first in Enj^lish, then in. Hawaiian. The Kiiii^, «is before describee!, has a remarkabi)' soft musical voice, and I was ^lad to hear the Hawaiian lan;4uai;e read by a chief, as there Is an immense differiMice in the in- tonation, each syllable beini; so clearly and well pronounced. The Princess stood calmly surveying the people, scarcely movini^ while the speech was bcin;^ read, her crimson satin lookinjj^ very handsome in the bright light. Her Ro\'al Highness was in full evening dress, with an immense train, a bright crimson blossom in her dark hair, and carried a lace handkerchief and fan. At the conQlusion, the King declared the session open, wished us all loha mui, handed the speech to the A.D.C., bowed gravely twice, and withdrew, followed by the Kahili bearers. A curious mixture of the barbaric and conventional, and the impres- sion was always left that these people, though per- haps not all that we might desire in some ways, yet carry off their ro}-alty with the mien of " To the manor born." Others may argue that there should be no display, look on it all as nonsensical in this nineteenth century ; but on occasions such as the one described, it was always curious to mark the StKNLS IN HAWAII. 151) l^ravc dii^nit)' of bearing evinced by the Ihiwaiian chiefs. A few days afterwards when we went to hear a de- bate, we found llieas[)eet of tlie chamber somewhat chani^ed ; tlie floor bcin<^ taken up with desks, at eacli of which sat two members, the dark faces of the Il.iwaiians sliowinu^ in contrast to their paler bretiieni. In two rows of chairs facing" each otlier on either side of tlie dais were respectively, on the rii^ht the members of the Cabinet, on the left the Nobles, who are always termed " Honourable " they answer somcthin;^" to our Senate, but have the same chamber as the ReiM'csentatives. The vcnerable-lookini;- President, as the office of our Speaker is termed, occupied a large chair at the front of the dais, the throne behind, being evidently only usctl on State occasions. Imme- diately below the dais was the Interpreter, who filled his office in a most marvellous fashion ; in front of him was a railed-in space enclosing a large table at which sat several reporters busily engaged with their short-hand. An animated debate was going on, in which many members were constantly joining, but only one, of course was allowed the floor at a time. IV ;■ u^m fl ill I 160 SCENES IN HAWAII. Now came into display the powers of the Inter- preter ; for instance, up wouk! get a member ready for the fray, burninL; with eloquence, a flood of words pouring out in defence of his point, he would go on for perhaps three minutes if in English, when, lo, up would go the Interpreter's hand, the English tongue woidd be suddenly silenced, and the words taken red hot as it were out of his mouth and trans- lated into a much more eloquent flow of Hawaiian ! gestures telling of indignation, appeal, surprise, assertion, were all carried out most f;iithfully. In a t ■ moments the stream of speeck would cease, the former orator \vould take up his theme again, and would be about regaining what he had lost by the interruption, and begining to feel he was doing his subject justice, when up would go the hand of fate, and again the S(/ native words would translate the harsher English for the benefit of the Hawaii ri members. I ! The member for Honolulu got up to speak, but his eloquence was summarily disposed of in concise English. Again, a white brother took the fl(3or, with the same resi ,as before, aad I be^an to feel some sympathy with the members, for no one, I should think, not even thegrandold man liimself could carry I 1 1L^ SCENES IN HAWAII. 161 but icise Iwith borne lould ■arry on a debate in lliis fashion without fceh'nLr that hewas at least bcin^ cruelly treated, to the detriment of his speech, and the failure of eloquence, f he interpreter I am sure, took care that his native liearers should lose nothing by his translation ; he walked up and down in quarter-deck fashion, always keepin<^ his face ti the house holding his audience by sheer force of clever interpretation ; in fact he was the whole, house embodied in one man ; his apparent interest in everything v/as so extraordinary, no speaking by rote, but shewing a feeling of responsi- bility on every subject he took up, as though he was personally involved. Imagine all this in a nc^t very airy room full of people, the thermometer probably registering at least 70° in the shade outside, and then think of all the exertion required for this, day after day. I came away deeply impressed with what 1 had witnesstd, and also with the fact that new.^. flics fast, as when I returned to the house where 1 was stay- ing, I was told with great glee by a young member of the liousehold, that the evening paper already reported the fact that " Mrs. Captain Forsyth Grant, occupied a chair on the floor of th«: house this afternoon," at which we weregreatly anjMed. n 162 SOKNES IN HAWAII. to J III ill I Now fmni the sublime to the ridiculous, comes my interview with a scorpion. Other insects, such as immense grey spiders, with Ic^^s as thick as a pen holder and hairy withal, I had learned to look on with a certain degree of tolerance, especially in the case of the si)ider, as I was always told by the Chinaman, *' No killee him, he eatee moscpiitto." Centipedes I did not love, and was a bit frightened of the great black and red creatures, which if you did cut them in half did not seem to mind, but tradition said actually joined together again ! To the latter I cannot assert, but I certainly have seen both halves of the wretched creature move. Cockroaches as large as mice almost, were to be met with alway\s, and the onW thing which seemed really to get rid of them was an application of crushed borax, or Persian insect powder, both of these being in some way obnoxious to them, and in consequence a careful house-wife had to cover her linen shelves, and do^e liberally everything which liad to be put away for a time. Ants of every species carried their armies into ever)'thing, and the only way to get rid of them was to put the legs of tables and safes into cans of water, but as a friend said once to me, " Ants are so self-sacrificing, they SCENES IN HAWAII. 163 will bridge with their bodies a way for their com- panions to gain the desired end." Frogs and snakes there were none. I remember being so struck by a mother of a family once askino- me to tell her children exactly what a fro^- was like for as she remarked, '' The only thing they know of frogs are their pictures, and in an ordinary lesson book, frogs are made the same size as flies ! " perfectly true too ! All these creatures I was " well acquainted with," but never a scorpion had I seen until one mornin the market one Saturday afternoon, and was much in- terested in watchiuL^ the motley crowd makinj^ their purchases of fish, always tied up in i^rcen leaves, the loni^ feelers of the squid hanging down in all directions , fruit of every description, from piles of pireapples to baskets of limes, water melons, greatly liked by the natives, fresh figs, mangoes, alligator pears, etc., mingling with enormou.s bunches of bananas, which grow wild all over the Islands. Outside the market place were the women selling their leis of flowers of all kinds ; they were all lounging in every conceivable lazy attitude on the ground, with their wares displayed on mats beside them. Roses, jasmine, oleander, wild ginger, all went to make up the fragrant necklaces. The vcndois were chatteri.ig, smoking, tcilking at the top of their voices, laughing, all the while threading S(JKNKS IN HAWAII. 165 I the blossoms on the thin fibre used to strini^ the leis toi(ether. With their bric^ht coloured holokus, dark faces, white teeth, and all the tropical sur- roundings of a brilliant sunshine, palm trees, the market stalls heai)ed with all kinds of curious things. Chinamen walking abf)ut carrying cala- bashes of poi for sale, and the general air of lazy inactivity which always prevails in a Hawaiian crowd, the contrast to a bustling nortliern market was strong indeed. The climate of Honolulu is most deli^m»^m;m' ■Hi 174 SCENES IN HAWAII. The rides and drives about were, as usual, lovely in the extreme. One pic-nic up the Waialua river lingers in my memory. We started a party of eight, a lot of young people with us, and sailed up the pretty river where the " windings " in and out were constantly opening visions of beauty; ferns, reeds, grasses grew down to the edges, and were mirrored as in a glass. Magnificent guavas grew in such profusion that we stopped for luncheon where we could pick huge basketfuLs without any trouble. Here a very funny incident occurred. A native had begged us to give him a seat in the boat, and his request being acceded to, he wished to take the whole command on himself, which was, however, calmly, but firmly objected to. He proceeded to tall< a great deal, standing up in the boat, working his hand now in this direction, now in that, as he thought the course ought to be shifted, and we came to the conviction that the would be skipper had been indulging in his favourite tipple, whatever it might be, to the extent of making him slightly incoherent. When we landed he was vi^ry officious, and on being suppressed, he got sulky, lit his pipe, and established himself in an easy attitude on the forked branch of a tree several feet from the i SCENES IN HAWAIt. 175 ground. There he lay, presently fell asleep and snored vociferously : but while we were trying the depths of the hospitable luncheon basket, we heard a tremendous report of breaking wood, and going to find out the mischief done, we discovered that the branch on which our friend had made his couch had completely broken from the tree the sleeper lay flat on his back, the pipe still in his mouth, but all the same the slumberer was undisturbed from his sleep ! Our laughter should have awakened him, if anything would, but he still slept so soundly that we thought it a pity to disturb him, and so left him to his fate. I might here remark that on our returning some hours later to bring our guavas, the native was still asleep ! What became of him I do not know ; the river lay between him and his home, but that is a small obstacle to a Hawaiian. d on and the the A long way up the Waialua we came to a once beautiful estate, where coffee had been found in immense quanrities, and flourishing crops were obtained until the blight came and destroyed every- thing. . Taro patches covered the valley, and on the top ■*■'*-" iMfir- ■"**'r^ \7(y SCENES IN HAWAlt. ^1 of the hill, wc could make out the stone foundations of what once had been a lovely home. At a short distance a double waterfall made a really beautiful picture, and after gazing for a long time at the whirling rapids, and the varied foliage, we made our way down to the boat again, enjoying the sail home in the short tropical twilight! We left Kapaa on a brilliant morning, and after a drive of some hours through an undulating road* reached a pretty cottage home, where we were welcomed by the kind and courteous judge of that district, and his daughter, who was known for her beauty and sweet manners all over Kauai. Koloa was the name of the plantation, and it was almost a town, with shaded roads, and pretty old- fashioned houses with verandahs covered with creepers, varied by smaller habitations. There were two churches, a large district school, one or two " stores " and the usual plantation buildings. The house at which we were received was a small cottage in the main building with a verandah in front, round which wandered a beautiful grey and pink paraquet which was a great amusement to all new-comers ; to the right of the house was the kitchen, and the judge's office ; to the left, a large ■3ss^^ ^ SCKNES IN HAWAII. / i le or )^* ;mall ih in and .o all LS the large room for visitors, all detached, in the usual island fashion. The cotta^^e was almost buried in s'l^^ar cane, which grew thickly in front of the house, and behind babbled a lively little brook through a pretty wood ; the judge was a great poultry fancier, and everywhere one w^ent chickens of all sizes and ages seemed to appear from all sorts of nooks and corners. We spent three pleasant days at Koloa, enjoying discussions on many things, from evolution to poultry, for the judge was a great reader and deep thinker, and was able, best of all, to impart his thoughts to his ready listeners. We left Koloa early one bright morning, and at mid-day passed through another plantation called Eeele-Eeele (Elly-elly), where we saw in the distance a white house, seemingly nestled at the foot of the mountains, at which we later had a most pleasant visit. Further on we saw some extensive rice fields, which w^ere so gaily decorated with poles from which fluttered streamers of every hue imafjinable that at first one thought there must be some festa in progress, but the deafening noise of the cans hung up in the breeze, and popping of 12 178 SCENES IN HAWAII. guns, soon made us aware t'^at all this display was for nothini{ but to frisjhten the little rice birds from the grain on which they vainly strove lo feast. We came in sight of the sea, along which a rough road wound, and presently were confronted by a truly awful looking hill cut out of the rock, on which one could discern a narrow bridle path, well worn, with rocks of every shape and size on either side ; the carriage Jiad to go up, and so had we, so with a cheering word to Hop, our little carriage mule, a willing animal but a trifle treacherous with his heels at times, we began the ascent, the coach- man walking beside with reins in his hands. Such a bumping and shaking was seldom experienced, but we did manage it, and at last after a severe struggle during which the wheels were almost at right angles with each other at times, we reached the top, and looked down from our rocky elevation on the plains where stood a large rambling home- stead, white, with green blinds and wide verandahs, surrounded by trees and flowers. The descent was easier on that side, and at the foot of tl\e hill we turned to the right through a gate into a road that led up to the house, across a primitive bridge, underneath which ran a wide SCENES IN HAWAII. 179 the 11 a s a ide stream with steep banks. As we approached the house, our kind friends came to the verandah steps to meet us. First came a fairy <^od-mother-Hke old Scotch lady, whose name is known far and wide in the Hawaiian Islands. By her side stood the eldest son and his wife ; two kind matronly faces smiled in welcome, also daughters of our hostess ; and again, another generation behind, in the two granddaughters, and grandsons. I may here mention the fact that many years ago, the head of this fine family with sons and daughters left Australia to seek another home in the wide Pacific, and they, being rich in the worlds goods took a ship for themselves, and " sailed, and sailed, and sailed," until they landed by preference on the shores of Kauai, and here made a home, or rather homes, for besides the house on the plains (the native name of which I forgot,) they have a charm- ing retreat in the mountains called " Makaweli," to which they can escape when the heat gets intense, and where, wonderful to relate, there is a fireplace ! And where the coolness of the climate is such that a fire *^ kept constantly burning, and to anyone who had not seen a fire for years, that of itself was an immense attraction. Another grandson had bought 180 SCENES IN HAWAII. the Island of Niihaii, and lived there in truly patriarchal fashion, amongst his flocks and herds and with no coinnumication with the outer world, except what was attainable through an occasional visit of the steamer and a trip now and then in one of his many whaling skiffs. A young family grow- ing up, however, must eventually, one would think, disturb the calm and quiet of such a retired life. The house on the plain was built to accomodate, many a visitor, each bed-room being made to open on the verandahs all round the house, with a dress- ing-room at one end. And frequently eighteen in number sat down to the table, for another daughter and her family were settled within a few miles. The drawing-room was large, filled with evidences of a charming home life, piano, books, work, pictures, and all description of curious and interesting objects ^ brought from abroad, where different members of the family would go for a prolonged visit to far-away regions. Mrs. Sinclair owned immense tracts of lands, and the natives therefore owed to her allegiance in the way of work, in return for being able to keep their dearly loved grass huts and Taro patches intact. A great deal of land was being turned into sugar Mml s of and the heir t. igar f^CKNKS TV HAWAli. 181 cane during our sojourn, and the rich soil promised abundant crops, if irrigation could be attained, and since our return we have seen accounts of engineers being employed to convey water from the numerous mountain streams to the fields, which will be all that is wanted to ensure phenonemal crops. ' We had a delicious luncheon, such home-made bread and butter, such vegetables, preserved man- goes and cream as seldom comes to one's lot in Hawaii, and our long drive had sharpened our appetites into being able to do full justice to the meal, which was served to us by an old white-haired native butler. After luncheon we went to see some beautiful Arab horse5?, which had been recently imported, and greatly admired the handsome crea- tures which poked their fine muzzles for the bread which they all contentedly took from kind hands, and pawed the ground with high-bred feet as though impatient for a swift galop on the breezy plains. . Towards evening we left our kind hostess as we were to reach Kekaha, the farthest plantation on Kauai, for a long promised visit ; and were very happy to have the opportunity again later on, of renewing our acquaintance with this ideal family 4^ f l8!2 SCENKS IN HAWAII. party. For it was an ideal life, surrounded by tiicir own kindred, clianninj^ homes, those depcndcni- ' n thcni i;lad to be so, and with a feeliiiij^ of attach- ment which can only come from a lifc-lon^ service; a perfect climate, and with means to cross the broad seas wh'^never inclined for change and health; what can me.e closely realize the perfect life? True, there is no church near at hand, but morning and evening brings family prayers, which in old days was the only form of worship known ; horses in abundance to ride, and carriages to drive gave exercise to all, the broad sea beach a quarter of a mile from the house invited those who wished to bathe to do so, the exquisite changes of atmosphere brought pictures of land and seas to gratify the eye, and the wonderful ferns and foliage gave subjects for the artists' pencil, as are seldom seen. Mrs. Frank Sinclair was an accomplished artist, and her sketches of flowers and plants, including or- chids, were really beautiful. I think they have been bound together for private distribution, and would be a valuable addition to a flower-lover's collection. A lodge in the mountains gave the gentlemen the means of " camping out" for days, while hunting wild cattle, a dangerous, and no doubt, an interest- .^-rw ^ uf 80ENKS IN FTAWAII. 183 .ist, or- Iccn )uld lion. men :ing kst- ing pastime for a lower of si)()rt and still another sylvan retn^at, built in a |)icturcsque spot in the hi^h woods, added tlie toucli of romance, when I may add that before we left Kauai, two of the youn<^ cousins i^ot married, and went to spend their honeymoon in the pretty cottai^e, to which they rode after the ceremony, followed by the ^ood wishes of the immense party of relatives assembled to the weddini;. After leaving Mrs, Sinclair's we drove to the banks of the Waimea River, which was very much swollen from the rain, and their found Johnnie with the cart and mules. A large party of natives looked on with interest when we prepared to ford the river, but a second look made mc sure the little phaeton would be submerged if we attempted to cross in it. What was to be done ? I could not ride across very well in my evcry-day raiment, with the chance of getting wet, and try the carriage I would not. The question was solved by putting me in the cart, which of course was much higher, and being driven with the mules, who never object to water. The phaeton was driven over by a native, and at one time it looked as if he and the carriaire and 184 SCENES IN irAWAtt. ' :! I Hop would all swim off together towards the sea, so deep were the waters ; however, we were all landed at last in safety, and I was deeply relieved when we were able to start in our proper order again. There was a capital bridge built a little lower dov\n, but the ends were not finished so that a carriage could go on it ; but after that experience I found 1 could walk r .ross it well enough, and wait while the carriage was driven across the ford. We drove on across a flat sandy road, passing the mill at Waimea, and came in sight at sun down of Kekaha plantation, which is built almost on the sea shore, the cane fields running up all towards the mountains. We passed a pretty house with a fountain and flower garden, and drove through a sort of com- pound in which were some grass huts, and tare patches beyond, and finally drew up in front of a modern house, one story as usual, with a wide verandah lunning round three sides, and shaded by some splendid mangoe trees. In a few minutes we were welcomed by the master of the house, a most kind courteous friend to us, and installed in a large and comfortable bed-room charmingly fur- nished, and we soon were at supper, where the iiii SCENES IN ilAWAII. 185 host and his partner served the most delicious coffee I have ever tasted. Bein^- both Germans, coffee was a necessity, and their Httle Vienna machine certainly produced a most excellent form of that beverage, strong, hot, and fragrant ; here we were introduced to tlie German combinations of food which are put up in tins in Germany, and thus find their way so many thousands of miles. Cabbage with vinegar, small sausages, big sausages, cheeses all new to us, fish of a kind unknow'n to our primi- tive ideas, and other things excellent in their way were pressed on us. While at Kekaha we had fresh cocoa nuts fre- quently ; a native boy climbing up the trees, many of which grew close by, and bringing the young green fruit down for us ; in that state the meat was a delicate white pulp to be eaten with a spoon from the shell, and the milk was very cool and pleasant on a warm day ; and the days are generally warm at Kekaha. It was a cooler period than had been experienced for a long time, during our stay there, and seldom the therometer went below 75° in the shade, but the air was so softly tempered by the sea breezes, that we rarely felt the heat oppres- sive The air is extremely dry at Kekaha, more so ■'^^^ ^ f 186 SCKNES IN HAWAII. tlian in other parts of the ishuul, and is most benefi- cial to anyone sufferin*;' from rheumatism or neurali^ia ; several cases were brought to our notice, cases of severity as well as of lon<^ standini^" which gave way to the salubrious effect of the soft dry atmosphere. • • In the rides and drives about one saw miany novel and curious sights. The river, or rather the valley of the W.iimea is a purely native settlement, and the luits arc of every size and shape, almost buried under glowing foliage of every hue. Oranges are particularly good there, and riding past a prett}' little grass hut one d • we were attracted by the sight of a fine tcdl orange tree in full blossom; and bearing, I should think hundreds of the briuht gokien fruit ; I never saw a more perfect specimen of an orange tree. The natives swarmed in numbers through the valley, and they would lie about in the laziest of attitudes, returning our "Alohas" with indifference. Many lepers are there too, poor unhappy creatures, but the movements of the Sheriff and his officers are too closely watched for justice to be done as it should. The fastnesses of the mountains are almost inaccessible except to those who are born near a6a«SB iiCENKS IN HAWAII. 187 there and in consequence, know of all the secret hiding places which are sought immediately an alarm is jriven. The word Molok.ii means of course, banishment in its most awful sense, a livin"^ death indeed ; and to escape this in isolated cases, the whole Hawaiian race is bein^r exterminated. The Government have proposed makin<^ a retreat for the lepers oi' Kauai on their own island, and I may here copy from one of the Honolulu papers, an account of an expedition of inquiry, undertaken by the members of the Board of Health to satisfy themselves as to whether it was practical to do so. " Oil Tuesday of last week His Excellency L. A. Thurston, Minister of Interior, Dr. N. B. Emerson, President of the Board of Health, and Mr. \V. E. Rowell, Superintendent of Public Works, all of them members of the Board of Health, embarked for Kauai on the steamer Mikahala. They re- turned by the same steamer on Sunday, when a representative of this paper obtained from the President of the Board an account of the ex- pedition. " By an arranj^ement with the captain of the boat, with the consent of Mr. G. N. Wilcox, an I. I. S. N. Co. director, the Mikahala called at ^»^^isy ■■ir^av^ m- l88 St'KNF.S IN ilAWAli. the vallty of Kalalau on the morning of Thurs- day. Leavin^^ Waimea tlic}^ steamed along the coast for about ^ miles. The view of the mountain clIiTs was wonderful, the carving of nature being declared by the members of the party as unsurpassed on these islands in beauty and sublimity. This was especially true of the pinnacles and gorges ne>ct to the above named valley. The mountains back are 4,000 or 5,000 feet of elevation at their highest. The only ac- cess to the valley is by difficult trail over the mountains, or by another trail along the precipitous cliffs of the coast in the direction of Haena, on the Hanalei side. During nearly six months access by boats is forbidden on account of the breakers, the sand of the beach for that time being washed away so as to leave nothing but a rocky beach. This stormy period lasts from October or November to March or April. : " The expedition left the steamer in boats and were carried through the surf in canoes, making very exciting business for which the party pre- pared by removing their foot gear. They found a fine sandy beach of about 200 feet in breadth to the overhanging bluffs. Inhere horses were SCKNES IN HAWAII. i89 found in waiting, on which they rode to the village, a distance of about a third — or half a mile, accompanied by a large number of the population, which altogether approaches sixty or seventy souls, including about twelve lepers and one Chinaman, The rest of the population are a fine, healthy lot of people, above the average for large and sym- metrical physique. There was notably a healthy looking band of children, numbering twenty-three, attending the school. • " The food resources of the valley are abundant. There are at least seventy-five acres of land either under cultivation in taro or capable of being so cultivated. Many more acres are suitable for raising Irish or sweet potatoes, yams, bananas, sugar cane, etc. There is a fine stream of water which in the present dry month is more than ample for all necessities, irrigation as well as household. •' Reaching the settlement, the expedition rode inland far enough to gain a fair view of the larger part of the valley, thus assuring themselves of its extent and resources." This is the valley to which the lepers of the Is- land of Kauai are said to desire to be transferred, [^ 'W» ■■^f- 190 SCENES IN HAWAII. i ;} that they may here be segregated from the rest of the people, and thus be permitted to escape removal to the leper settlement at Kalawao. It was with the purpose of gaining accurate information on this point, and seeing for themselves how the land lay, that these three members of the Board of Health made this visit to the valley. The cane at Kekaha was a marvellous sight, so enormous in height, tliickness and quantity. Some of the sugar canes were thirty feet high, and we tried to count the number of sticks growing in one stool, as it is called, a clump in other words, and after counting thirty-six, we gave up in despairj the crops of sugar of course are enormous, eight tons of sugar to an acre, and over seven and five tons for the second and third growths, or ratoons, as they are calkd. But to cap this, comes the question of 'rrigation, all surface water is brackish, and in consequence artesian wells have to be sunk in every direction, and pumped into the flumes to water the fields, the wells are kept going by steam power, and with coal at sixteen dollars a ton, it seems difficult to know how such huge expenses can be met to any advantage. Some years ago the profits were so SCENES IN HAWAII. 191 Ith to so large that it seemed as thono-h the planters must make large fortunes in a very few years, and they did, but when the Germans swept the markets of the world with their beetroot sugar, the splendid cane sugar sank into the background, and has con- tinued to sink ; whether it will rise, is a question ? I trow not, while the foreign labour clamours for high wages, and the native coolie is unknown. The water was often quite hot shortly after leaving the pumping house, and the servants used to be able to get hot water a few yards away with- out trouble ; there seemed to be an immense quantity of lime also in the water, and if the kettle was not carefully attended to it would get a solid incrustation of lime inside, leaving only a few inches of space for the water. Though sparkling and clear, it induced great thirst if much was drank, and there was a story told of a visitor, who drank the delightfully cold water with great avidity the first day of his arrival, at night he was still thirsty, and a large jug of water was left in his room for him ; sleep fled however, the thirst still continued, and by morning both jugs were emptied, as well as the water bottle. Near our temporary home, was a large native 192 SCENES IN HAWAII. ^rass hut to which an addition had evidently been intended, as part of the roof and one side were done, but Hawaiian laziness had stopped just then, and there seemed little prospect of its being finished. In the habitable part lived a large native woman, with a shock of curly white hair, who invariably wore immense gold rimmed spectacles. She was a " lady doctor," and appeared to have a large num- ber of patients judging from the visitors constantly about the house. Passing there one day I was greatly edified to see the old dame sitting a la turque, her spectacles imparting a most learned air to her countenance, in front of her open fire in the ground, reading from a large book spread on her lap to an attentive audience ; it was the Bible ! While at Kekaha, a kind friend sent me a present of some squid, as a rarity, but 1 did not much care to try it, so our host suggested my giving it to the old lady Kahuna, so we walked down to the hut and found her squatting over the fire of embers, on which was a tin pot of water ; on asking if anyone was ill, after receiving her thanks for the squid she said, " Ai, my husband is sick inside, he no like cold water to drink, so I make it warm." And she accordingly dipped her finger in now and then to ZL^^3^^^ j^ SCENKS IN HAWAII. 193 . air le ler ;nt ire ; le . . lUt on »ne id ike ihe to sec if it was the right temperature. I peeped into the hut and saw a man lying on some dirty mats with a Httle child nestHng beside him, they both looked up with their big black eyes but said nothing, so after looking at the untidy place heaped up with all kinds of things, I dropped the mat which served for a door and was glad to breathe the pure air once more. We left the old dame still testing the water with her finger ! The same old Native met me one day when we were both riding ; she had a huge piece of sugar cane, several feet long, which she was tearing with her teeth to extract the sweet juice, and on seeing me she gave her horse a kick, grinned from ear to ear, and held out her sugar cane with a most cordial air of invitation to taste. I never cared much for the sugar cane, it was so tough and fibrous, and such a lot of trouble to get at the juice, but the natives young and old are excessively fond of it, and many white people too. • One warm day our kind host asked us to come and see the far famed Blue Lake, and we accepted the in- vitation at once, as we knew from hearsay of this extraordinary phenomenon. We mounted and set off along a good road, but dusty, until after leaving 13 K^ 221 a^9%tL.MSf .'^\ n.^-issr 194 SCENES IN HAWAII. i tlic actual road itself shaded by inan^oe trees, we emerged on a broad plain, bounded on one side by the ocean, and on the other by frovvnin;j^ heights. The sides of the mountain ran<^e bein.^ in this place darker, and more bare of foliaj^e than I saw them anywhere else ; deep gulches however, made a welcome, break in the red earth and rock, shew- ing cool and green in their grassy depths. ] In many parts of Kauai the grass is infested with a small seed, called " piddy grass," which is most troublesom;) to anyone walking, as it covers the lower part of ones garments for several inches, and can only be got rid of by a violent scraping of the cloth witii the back of a knife, a brush not being hard enough. But here at Kekaha the grass was soft, spongy, and a blue green colour, delightful to walk or ride on, and most nourishing feed for animals. On the plain were many clumps of cocoa-nuts, and herds of cattle feeding in all directions ; we crossed a slight depression in the ground, ascended a low'hill, or rather rise, and before us lay the lovely Blue Lake. It lay immediately in front of our path, surround- ed the wide plain, which formed a bank, on which SCKNKS IN IIAWAH. 195 were ferns in varied beauty ; the tall cocoa-nut palnis waved their graceful feathery hei<^dits over the clear blue water, which seemed to mirror all in its crystal reflections ; cattle stood enjoying the cool depths to their knees, the hot sun seemed to give a deeper, more intense hue to the water even as we looked, and a simultaneous " How lovely " came from us both. The shimmering waters of the broad Pacific on one side, and the rocky coast beyond, seemed to be a perfect perspective for this exquisite picture ; after gazing for a long time, we moved on to see if we could ford the lake, or skirt round it to reach the " Barking Sands " just beyond. The lake apparently was but a short distance, and every moment we expected to get a nearer view of it ; (a clearer one, could not be,) but as we rode, we appeared not to get closer, we passed the cocoa palms, the cattle, but still no water ; suddenly, as though in a vision, the lovely Blue Lake wcs gone. We looked, and looked again, but only bare sand met the eye ; we rode on, completely bewildered, when our host said, " Now, look back.'' We did so and there behind us was the crystal lake, mirroring the palms and the cattle laving the blue waters, but although, apparently, we must have gone throu^rh .»P /srim^^ ^^sa^ta^i VM) .SOKNK.S l\ HAWAII. 8 ! hi the deepest part, our own senses told us that vvc had come entirely on dry land. The Blue Lake of Kekaha was a mirage, and a mirage as must be seldom seen except in the far East, and even there one could not meet with a more complete transformation than was presented to the eye in those dry and sandy plains in the space of a few moments time. No scientific explanation has been given, that I know of, of this marvel of nature; the soil is strongly impregnated with salt, and would be very rich if cultivated, but let us hope that the hand of man will leave undisturbed the sweet, placid waters of the pictured Blue Lake. Quite close at hand was a large plot of ground which was said to be a most dangerous quick- sand, the surface was very light in colour, and much cracked ; we, not believing in the danger, tried one day to drive across, the mule refused several places, and was very uneasy, as if the animal was aware that there was something wrong, but after a little judicious coaxing, we managed to skirt the treacherous bog without evil results. The rocky coast is rugged and stern, but the spray from the breakers leaping high in the clear SCKSKS In HAWAII. 197 air, makes a drOi^htful frcsli atinostplicrc, and we enjoyed wanderiiiL^ about, picking" up the numerous shells of all kinds which strew the beach. The " l^arkin^ Sands " are long, low hillocks of sea sand which, after a period of dry, hot weather, will, when stami)ed on, give out a curious bark- ing sound, like that of an angry dog. It is said that this comes from the sand being composed of myriads of tiniest shells, which when pressed with sudden violence make the sound I have mentioned. How true this version may be I cannot tell, but the plains of Kekaha are certainly rich in marvels. At the extreme end of the pbins another planta- tion has been taken up, and though the area cannot he very large the soil is so rirV that the large crops of sugar will repay the enterprizing planter ; the isolation will be great, but the situa- tion a scene of surpassing beauty. There are many Swedes and Norwegians on '•.his side of Kauai, and one of the partners in Kekaha plantation was a Swede, who livid in the pretty house alluded to, which had a fountain in front, and when hearing many voices in the Norse language, the effect is very curious, that 19B SCKNES IN IIAWAir. M tongue being more nasal and giittral than even the North German. We left Kekaha with the' warmest remember- ances of all the kind welcomes extended to us, and after stopping to bid adieu to Mrs. Sinclair and her family, we drove back to EUe-Elle, where at Waihiava Ranche, we passed a charm- ing visit of a fortnight, at the white house, n stled at the foot of the hills. This ranche was a splendid estate, hundreds of cattle roaming over the hills and plains ; and most curious to see were the innumerable flocks of turkeys which one met everywhere in walks, or drives, or rides. Originally, I suppose they had been tame and in small numbers, but gradually wandering from the home yard, had gone farther away, and finally brought out their young ones in all sorts of inaccessible places, for a turkey hen loves to make her nest where no human hand can find it. And though we saw flocks of dozens in each, quite close to the garden fence, yet in the rockiest paths, or most silent gulches, we would suddenly hear the peculiar cry of the bird when disturbed, and they would fly off the trees like pheasants. mn ^iFi0^ Scenes in Hawaii. 19D The house was charming, so large, though only one story, but a range of pretty little cottage rooms ran down at right angles with the main building, connected with each other by a wide verandah. The rides up the mountain which rose up almost immediately behind the house were lovely, such a wnde vista to look out on, bounded only by the sea ; groves of bamboo, and coffee bushes were in abund- ance, and solitary trees of koa shewed where this beautiful wood had once flourished in abundance. On the sea shore were splendid shells, so richly marked ; and close by the pools where we looked for them, were rocky ponds from which salt was taken in large quantities, dried, and exported, but I heard it was not so remunerative as to make the exportation a large business. Looking up from the " shelling," we were engaged on one day, I saw the rocks were very high, and curved round into a horse-shoe shape almost, run- ning inland several hundred yards ; and at various distances, some twenty feet from the ground, one could perceive apertures in the face of the rocks, almost like open doorways, apparently only reached by a narrow ledge marked in the rocks. 200 SCENES IN HAWAII. I asked my companion, one of the charming daui^hters of our kind hostess of Waihiava what it meant, and she said tliey were supposed to be graves of natives, probably chiefs, whose bodies, after being embahned were carefully deposited in these caves, and the natives to this day dislike ex- tremely any stranger to look into them. It seemed to bring the ^act of the eastern fashion cf putting the mummies into caves in rocks to one's mind, but there could scarcely be any connection, one would think. Tliere was a collection of native curiosities in the room of the young master of the house, calabashes, mats, spears, stone poi pounders, etc., and the most perfect specimens of tapa cloth I saw while in the Islands ; great rolls of the cloth had been given to him, some new, and some old, bright colours and dull, and some with deep borders would have looked most quaint as curtains, and one square piece would have done for a table cloth ; they were exceptionally fine and well made, and no doubt before long it will be as difficulty to get tapa cloth from Hawaii, as it is to get silk from China. We said good bye to Waihiava and our kind SCENES IN HAWAII. 201 and gentle liostess, and drove to Koloa one fine day, where we spent the night with the Judge, and the following day reached our destination for a short visit to some friends at Hanamoula, where indeed the offices of the good Samaritan were called into requisition, for a violent cold detained one of our party there for several days and the hospi- tality extended can never be forgotten. le o d e e e t 1 Captain L'Orange was a Swede, also his wife, and we heard many interesting stories of his sea- faring life before settling in Kauai ; Madame L'Orange was a notable housekeeper, and she told me of some quaint dishes customary in her country, and one day introduced us to beer soup, and rye bread with carraway seeds in it! also &. strong liquor made very sweet, flavoured strongly with aniseed, which is frequentjy given in Sweden before dinner, to be eaten with a certain kind of hard dry biscuit as an appetizer. The linen of the household was the finest, and most elaborate I ever saw, even the pillow cases and sheets being most beautifully worked by hand ; on each large pillow lay a tiny one, with a blue ^02 SCKNKS IN HAWAtt. covering, and over that a second cover of finest cambric, with '. large monogram embroidered in the -^jntre, and edged wiili work to correspond. It is probable much the same custom as obtains in Germany, for each young Swedish maiden to vie with the other for the possession of a large stack of household linen, which is kept, and added to, to be in readincsn for the wedcHng day. ^- We were almost at the end of our journey when we said a regretful good-bye at Hanamoula, and that same afternoon reached Kapaa where we spent a few days at Mr. Dole's before wending our way to Kilauea, where we found ever/thing in capital order, and though Sin Fat expressed pleasure at our return, he two days later, as I have said before, I firmly believe, walked off with some valuables ; with celestial cunning, he waited until we had re- turned, found things all safe, and then expressed sorrow that he had left the d* or open one night ! No doubt, to make way for a friendly thief ! We were always so glad we had been enabled to take the trip round Kauai, thereby enabling us to see more varieties of life in a short time than we could ■^2? SCKVKS I\ lIAWAlt. m possibly have (lone in any other way, as the many difficulties in merely travellin^r about would have deterred us, but with the phaeton, the mules, and Johnnie, we were quite independent of steamers and Staines, and have, amongst our many hapj y re- c )llections, this last chapter of SCENES IN HAWAII." «1 HART & GGMRANY PUBLISHERS cMr> (m i^ ^ |©0Sse:rre:is and iEt^tioFie:rs PRINTERS, EfJGRAVERS : : : : : AND BOOKBIJMDEF^S ♦ ♦♦♦♦♦ ^-'' ^; ^ JJominion ; all the standard as well as the most fashionable novelties in stock. Our celebrated lines are the Ivory Vellum, Imperial Kent Lin(m, Royal Irish Linen, Keal Trisii Linen Cloth Finish, Athole, Fashionable Silurian, (irey, and Primrose, P)rown Holland Canvas and (xrey Calico. Samples sent. 0*1inr'lhinn At Home Cards, Invitation Cards, Dinner Cards, Visit- " ing Cards, Wedding and Reception Cards, Men\is and Ball Progrannnes, &c., in the very best manner. 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