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Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

1980

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B'/g P^^l^i^l

SCENES IM HAWAII.

rm^W TF^ftNlrg.

SCENES IN HAWAII

IIFE I^THE S/NDf ICH ISLA^S

M. FORSYTH GRANT.

TORONTO:

HART & CDMPi^NY,

31 & 33 KING ST., Wl'ST.

J 8 88.

rrNT I

y~s

Entered aecordini,' to Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year of our Lord
one thousand eif>ht hundred and eighty-eight, hy Hart & Comi>any, in
the otfice of the Minister of Agriculture.

^smf^^^mmmmmm^

To My Husband,

TVF

.m %r

PRKFACE.

As I have been induced by kind friends to ^ive
publicity in this form to my notes and observations
while on my journey to Hawaii and stay^ there, I
must ask them and others who may care to
read them, to be lenient in criticism, and to remem-
ber my only wish is to interest by telling them a
little-of this small Kingdom in the Pacific, generally
known only as the most encouraging exemplification
of the noble efforts of inissionaries to civilize and
christianize a savage and voluptuous race. Alas,
for this, the finest example of self-sacrificing men
and women, for the boast is, sad to say only a
boast ; and alas, as the group of Islands which
Captain Cook discovered in 1776 — and on one of
which, Hawaii — he was murdered on his second
visit in 1778, at Kealakekua Bay.

On Captain Cook's first visit his large ships and
cannon so worked on the natives superstitious minds
that they regarded him as a god, he and iiis crews
were given everything they desired. On his visit
in 1778, being struck by a stone or spear, he gave a
cry of pain which not agreeing with the native idcci

PKKFACE.

of a god, they immediately murdered him. The
spot is marked by a i,Tanite monument brought by
a man-of-war from Enijland.

The Ha\va''-''\ K'v-u'dudi fc.. ir.eily knoVvn "as the
Sandvvi. 11 Ishmd:;: 't^'-'^s bft-n-ei/iTlhe 2ath and 22nd
dei^rees of latitude, a gn ip -^jf seven inhabited
Islands, viz : — Oahu, on which is flonolulu, the
Capital and seat of Government; Hawaii, the
largest, on which are active the Volcanoes ; Maui,
Lanai, Kauai, Nihau, and Molokai, on which is
the leper settlement. It is now of some importance
from its position, owing to the anxiety of many
nations to possess it as a strong strategetical point,
and their consequent jealousies. It is about 2000
miles from San Francisco, and 4000 from Aukland.
in the direct route to Australia from North America.
Its independence was guaranteed in 1847 by Eng-
land and France, and the year following the United
States joined them ; as two of these nations regard
treaties as binding, the Hawaiian Kingdom is likely
to retain its independence, unless war in Europe
overthrows the balance of Power, or to the time
Seward thought of when he said " The Pacific
Ocean is destined to become the theatre of the
world's greatest events."

4N^P^^^ 4I^Ww ' ^»

TREFACE,

XI.

The cable between British Cohimbia and Aus-
tv'Ha, for which soundings are now being made,
Will bring into notice Honolulu, near which is to
be a landing station for the cable; or, perhaps, a
rise in sugar may again make prominent her fertile
lands.

The Government is carried on by King, Lords
and Commons — Lords and Commons meeting and
voting together in one Legislative Hall with
a Cabinet of five to advise His Majesty— His
Majesty had the power, by the Constitution, o(
vetoing any Bills his faithful Commons sent him,
lately much curtailed. When I was in Hawaii the
King practically controlled all measures or rather
the power behind the throne, for the King, though
well educated and intelligent, was credited with
the Hawaiian trait of extreme indifference to
matters of importance, or matters of any kind,
if they in anyway interfered with his own personal
comfort.

The population is about 80,000, of which the
natives number some 35,000, Chinese 20,000,
Portugese and Japanese 15,000, the rest British
subjects, many of them Canadians ; United States
subjects; German, French, Danish, Swedish and'

XIl.

PREFACE.

li^

other nations subjects with a (gw South Sea Is-
landers. The native race is fast dying out. A
century ago their number was estimated at
400,000 ; this is due, without doubt to the taste
for strong waters' given to them by their white
friends, as well as the germs of the horrible leprosy
which is now so imbued in their bloo^l that all
are tainted.

In the hope that these few pages which have
been reprinted in part from the columns of the
"Week," may amuse and interest, I venture to
send forth my little book, trusting that it may give
something of the pleasure to my readers, that it
has given me to write it. M. F. G

LiSL^Ji

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

San Francisco.— Chinese. -"The Australia."— His Hawaiian
Majesty.— English cricketers - The invalid.— First glimpse

of Honolulu. — Kalakua's reception. — Young swimmers.

The natives.— Tax /or residents.— Royal Hotel— Mos-
quitoes. — Persian Powder. — Sunday in Honolulu.

Flowers.— St. Andrew's Cathedral

CHAPTER H.

Welcome to the King.— Procession in palace grounds.— Danc-
ing girls. — Fire brigade. —Concert in opera house.

Hawaiian band and Herr Berger.— Moonlight in Hono-
lulu.— Expedition up the Pali.— Riding party.— Waikiki.—
Luncheon party at the Kings.— Her Majesty Queen Kap-
iolani.— Leis.— Old Wahine with fish.— Tabu.— Hawaiian
curiosities at the palace.— Feather robes. —Kahilis.— Queen
Kapiolani's gift to Queen Victoria ia

CHAPTER HI.

The yacht " Wanderer.'— Mr. Lamberts' invitation to Queen
Emma.— Poi.— Taro patches.— Method of making poi.—
Method of eating it.- Excellent food.— Poi dogs.— Taro
flour. — Chinese making poi ^I

XIV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

Voyage between Honolulu and Ilanai. — Home at Rapaa. —
Arrival at Kilawee. — " Wailele Hale." — Garden there. —
Different Fruits. — 1" lowers. — Trees. — Variety of colour in
Landscape 37

CHAPTER V.

Servants ! — Chinese Family. — Mary Mahoi. — Ah Sam and his
Pretty Bride. — Portugese. — Da Souza. — German Servants.
Ah See and his Antics. — Chinese New Year. — " Salt
Eggs." — Opium Smoking. — lling Hoi and his Music! —
.Sin Fat. — Chinese Gamblers. — Theives. — Scribblings. —
Decorations. — Japanese Servants 52

CHAPTER VI.

Rides and drives about Kilauea. — Kalikiwai Valley. — Valley of
Hanalei. — After glow of Sunset. — Swarm of Red Fish. —
Death of the last of the Kainmehainahas Queen Emma. .. 71

CHAPTER VII.

Volcano of Mauna Loa. — Visit to Crater and Burning Lake. —
Superstition of Natives. — Like-like dies. — Superstitions
about Deaths.- — Lomi-lomi. — Awa Root. — Li toxical ing
Beverages. — Old Native. — Natives Riding. — Breaking
Horses. — Leprosy. — Molokai. — Father Damien. — Old
Leper at Kilauea

CHAPTER VIII.

Invitation to King Kalakua's Coronation, — Drive to Kealia and
Kapaa. — The Parsonage.— Home at Lihue. — Honolulu
again. — Ship in harbour. — Flowers. —Carriages. — Coron-
ation Day. — Coronation Ceremonies. — Coronitiou Ball. —
Queen leaving the Palace. — Coronation Fireworks. —
Hookups. — Granil Luau. — The Dandy and his Dancers. —
Races at Waikiki. — Unveiling of the statute of the great
Kammehameha 99

n» NAlVU/g 377^T.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX.

Life on a Plantation.

-Work in the Cane Fields.— LalKmrers.
—Chinese.— Portugese. —South Sea Islanders.— Looking
after the Labourers.— Hoi i(Uiys on tiie Plantations.— The
Doctor's Orders.— Chinese with Sickness.— Visit of H. B.
M. S. "Constance"

CHAPTER X.

Opening of the Legislature in Honolulu.— Ceremony.— The
Debate.— The Wonderfid Literpreter.— News Flies Fast.
My First and only Scorpion.— Other Lisects.- Visit to the
Market.— Climate.-Amusements.— Easter Decorations.—
Queen Kapiolaiii gives Teas

140

155

-!'■■

CHAPTER XI.

An interesting episode.— Juhnnie. — Kea!ia House.— i'lc-nic uj)
the Waialua.— Koloa.— The Judge's Home.— Mrs. Sinclair
and Family. — Ideal Life. -Waimea River.— Kekaha.—
Visit there.— Lepeis at Waimea.— Cane at Keknlia.— Old
Kahuna. — Blue Lake at Kekaha. — Barking Sands.—
Wachiava Ranche.— Burial Caves.— Hanamaula.— Home

again at Kilauea.

171

.r^.^ya^.n,u^.

SCENES IN HAWAII.

CHAPTER I.

San Francisco. -Chinese.- -The Austraik."-His Hawaiian
Majesty -English cricketers - The invalid. -First glimpse of
Honolulu.— Kalakua's reception.— Young swimmers.— The
natives.— Tax for residents.— Royal Hotel. -Mosquitoes .-
Persian Powder. -Sunday in Honolulu.-FIowers.-St. An-
drew's Cathedral.

JJ[HE City of San Francisco is said to be the
most cosmopolitan city in the world, and to
the traveller from Northern Latitudes presents a
strange mingling of elements, foreign and other-
wise. Irish seemed to predominate, the brogue of
of the Emerald Isle being heard in all directions.
French, one hears constantly. Color of every
degree is met in the passing faces, and the
ubiquitous Chinaman pervades the streets, hotels,
ferries, and tram cars, or rather did some short
time ago, for now, like the Wandering Jew, he is
condemned to " move on ! "

Almost all the household servants are Chinese,
and very smart they look, with their silken coats
and white trousers, sometimes profusely embroid-
ered, their long queues hanging down their back

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

III

■ 1
if

almost to their heels, (I found out afterwards that
the queue is frequently made chiefly of silk or
cotton braid, which is introduced into the plaid,
the natural hair being scarcely longer than below
the shoulders), and invariably with a small, round
silk cap on top, which seemed to be the correct
finishing touch to their indoor dress.

On arriving at the pier, the Mongolian again
appeared, and on board the good ship " Australia, '
bound for Honolulu, we found them acting in the
various capacities of waiters, stewards, sailors, etc.,
these latter very untidy and dirty in appearance,
and always, to me, having a look of surprise on
their impassive, yellow faces, owing in part to the
fact of their always shaving the hair of the fore-
head, except when they wear a fringe over their
brows, a sign of being what we call '* in mourning."
What a Chinaman calls it, I do not know, as outward-
ly, he never mourns except ^ his gambling losses.

The sun was shining in a brilliant flood of light
through the " Golden Gate," as we left the steep
hill of San Francisco in the hazy distance, and set
sail for tropical climes : the soft, warm, air, and
summer-like arrangement of the ships cabins
making one anticipate w'th delight, the genial
atmosphere we were soon to enter.

SCENES IN Hawaii. d

Dark complcxioncd faces in the dining saloon as
well as amongst the crew, shewed the probabiHty
of there being native Hawaiians and Portugues'^'
down belov/, resides the usual complement of
V hite waiters; they all appeared to work well
together, however.

The Captain, a big, burly Saxon in appearance,
was very kind and pleasant, an immense favourite
on the line, and apparently having plenty of spare
time to give to his passengers, especially as the
passage was a fine, though not particularly smooth
one. The Pacific disappointed nearly everyone in
this respect, as, though not stormy, and the sun
shining brightly, the long, steady, continuous roll
never ceased for a day.

The upper decks were immensely long and large,
and in a few days, those of the passengers who
could tumble up the companion, managed to do
so, and the rows of sea-chairs were soon filled by
convalescents enjoying the fine, soft air.

There were a number of cabins opening on to
the decks, each door being arranged with a pretty,
cool looking curtain, which blew about in the most
refreshing way, a great boon as the nights grew
hotter.

j«>,. .-m.^..Mi^--Wik..nm^

SCENES IN HAWAII.

ill! i [

If!

Now, as to the passenger-list ; first comes
Royalty and its surroundings, for we were honoured
by the presence of no less a personage, than His
Majesty King Kalakua of the Hawaiian Islands,
who was returning to Honolulu after a liesurely
tour round the world, accompanied by his chamber-
lain, Colonel Judd, a fine looking man, son of one
of the early American Missionaries to Hawaii,
and a suite. The King was a large, tall man,
rather too stout for his height, his complexion deep
copper-colour, dark curly hair and whiskers, and
fine white teeth.

The Captain's cabin was beautifully decorated
with flowers, for His Majesty's reception, in defer-
ence to the Hawaiian fashion, and in it he spent
most of the time, rarely appearing except when
the gong sounded in the dinning saloon, probably
glad enough to keep quiet after eighteen months of
sight-seeing and being seen. For, happening to
have been in London during his visit there, I had
been witness to the way in which King Kalakua
had been hailed as the lion of the hour, and his
carriage fairly mobbed whenever he appeared as
" the king of the Cannibal Islands."

Shortly after leaving San Francisco, I was intro-
duced (or ; ^sented ! ) to His Majesty, and he was

'/.I

n-^^Tvy -yi-xu/x^ 1?A^

SCENES IN HAWAII.

kaa

his

always most kind to us afterwards. His natural
dignity of manner was very marked, his voice
soft, musical, with a slight foreign accent, and his
English, owing to the fact that he was educated
chiefly in California, was perfect. He told me that
when he was present at an audience given him in
Rome by the Pci :, he supplied a word in English,
at which Cardinal Mazzini hesitated, doubtless
thinking that a native of the Pacific Islands might
not be a proficient in that language. On the fifth
day of the voyage, officers, stewards, and the king
also, appeared in white linen raiment, and the
Chinese steward in a loose coat and short trowsers
of shining black calico. This latter in spite of his
comical appearance, tempted one gentleman to
wish that he was " dressed like that Chinaman."
Some English professional cricketers were with us
also, on their way to Australia, a jolly, good
tempered lot, adding much to our enjoyment by
their capital singing of choruses, one especially, I
remember, called " My little Yorkshire Lass,' in
which all joined most heartily, sung in the approved
dialect by the stentorian English voices.

A sad incident of the voyage was my casual
acquaintance with a young girl, who, we were told,
was dying of some wasting disease. Her father

I'M

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

i'hi

of hij^^h Icu^al standing in Honolulu, was a German,
her mother a native of the Islands. Often in pass-
ing her cabin, where she lay always, I used to peep
throuj^h the chintz curtains hun^ in the doorway,
wish her good morning, and stand to chat with her
for a few minutes. Ilcr face was small, thin, and
yellow ; her eyes large, dark> and very melancholy.
One hand was bound u[), and we had heard she
had lost the other, also a foot. Some weeks later,
when she was wasted almost to a shadow, I saw
her again at her invitation. Shortly afterwards
she died, and the suspicion arose that for the
only tim(. during our stay in the Islands I had
seen a person dying of leprosy, that fatal disease
which is surely exterminating the Hawaiian* race.

The bolo .bluff called Diamond Head, which was
th.i first point of land visible, was perceived early
on the morning of the seventh day. Towards the
afternoon every one who could do so, w^as busily
engaged in watching for the first glimpse of
Honolulu through glasses of every size, but we
sailed smoothly enough along the shore for a
long time, and were delighted at seeing the grove
of cocoa-nut trees which are outside the town,
and whose graceful, towering tops give a tropical
look to any scenery. .

ur-r^r^ -^vmdM IF.

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

Some little distance frcMii the wharf, the tide
was adverse, and the ship had to be towed in by
immense ropes, and duriiiij^ this rather ij^nominious
process several people left the ship in small boats»
and our attention was drawn by the appearance of
numerous officials who were rowed from the shore
to meet His Majesty on board, who presently
appeared with his suite, all in most fashionably cut
London clothes, high liats, etc. He went about
among the passengers, saying good bye in the
kindest way, and I should be afraid ii tell how
many royal autographs were asked for and pre-
sented. The officials were clad in the most
gorgeous uniforms, all gold lace, cocked hats,
swords, etc., something between a diplomatic and
full dress naval uniform ; and numerous greetings
were passed between the friends who met perhaps
after an absence of many months.

A beautiful gig, i.anned by natives dressed in
white, wearing wreathes of flowers and leaves round
their necks and hats, and flying the royal Hawaiian
standard, was ready for the King, and in it he em-
barked, followed by his suite in their different
crafts, and in the distance we coidd hear the strains
of a band playing a welcome to their returned
monarch. •

U ;

I',.

'I i

SCENES IN If WVAII.

During the time which elapsed before we were
able to land, we were amused by the antics of a
crowd of youthful savages, who had ap[)eared from
the town, and who were swimmin^^ all round the
ship, and now and then divinj^ for the pieces of
silver thrown to them by the passen<(ers, and which
seemed all part of the performance to be {.^one
through with when a ship came into harbour. The
children looked like so many polly-wogs, and did
not seem to mind how far down they had to dive for
a sixpence, bringing it up in their mouths, and y«^ll-
ing with delight every time a fresh one was thrown.
They seemed wonderfully good swimmers.

The wharf was crowded with natives of every
age ; the women, as a rule, tall, walking with a
long, swinging gait, very dark in colour, and all
dressed in flowing cotton garments, called by
them holokus. They all wore straw hats, of
every shape, but the sailor shape seemed to be the
one most affected, with broad, bright ribbons round
them. There seemed to be two modes in the
fashion, one to be tilted over the nose, resting on a
huge tortoise shell comb ; and the other worn more
back from the forehead, and untidy masses of black
locks streaming down to the waist.

The men, some of them very fine-looking fel-

S(;ENKS FN HAWAII.

lows, wore blue or white cotton trousers, bright
coloured shirts with buttons the size of a shillinf^,
and plenty of them ; straw hats, some very small ;
the feet either bare, or clad in h.igh leather riding
boots, with immense Mexican spurs, jingling as
they walked ; the more noise a native can make
with iiis spurs the much finer man he thinks
himself. All, men and women, wore leis or
wreathes of flowers round their hats and necks ;
some of the blossoms being so strongly scented as

to be overpowering to the olfar tory nerves.

The taxes paid, in the shape of a $2 bill, to be
given by each person intending to reside in the
Island, for the support of the Queen's Hospital, we
presently found ourselves at the hotel, a fine, large
wooden building, with beautiful grounds about it
and huge double verandahs.

All the servants were Chinese — no women ser-
vants to be seen ; the Chinaman being equally good
as house-maid, waiter, or cook.

The rooms were comfortable, each bed being
provided \Ath the inevitable mosquito curtain,
made of fine netting, g .lerally hung from the ceil-
ing by means of a rope and pulley arrangement,
which enables the traveller to raise or lower it
according to his requirements.

8CENKS IN HAWAII.

As soon as Jaylight wanes, in comes a Chinaman
to pull down the net all round the bed and tuck
it securely between the matrasses, so as to prevent
the fast-comin[( hordes of mosquitoes from pene-
trating the folds. Strangers have to get accus-
tomed to this piece of daily routine, or, in
consequence, the occupant, thinking he has done
all that is necessary, will be just dozing off when
the fatal sing-sing of the little tormentor will be
heard, and then good-bye to a night's rest till the
murder is committed.

A most valuable addition to one's comfort is a
box of the Persian insect powder, which is prepared
from the blossom of the yellow pyrethrum, which
is brought down from the Pacific Coast in barrels
and sold in any quantity.

A small quantity of this kept burning in a little
tin will deal an immens"e amount of destruction,
the fumes rendering the mosquitoes perfectly help-
less, and, if burned long enough, killing them in
such numbers that frequently the dustpan will be
filled with them the next morning. A small box
of this powder can be easily put in a corner of one's
portmanteau, and anyone who suffers from the
attacks of these pests should never be without it.

The next day was Sunday, and a walk about

cir«ryK 7VO SA ^ \\^Ji> l^^s^iXA

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

the town shewed it to be quite as pretty in the
interior as it appeared from the harbour. Nearly
all the streets were shaded by rows of trees on both
sides, and the houses, built in every form of archi-
tecture — brick, adobe, wooden and rou[^h-cast, and
all with verandahs, — were overi^rown with Mexican
creepers, honeysuckles, and passion flowers in the
loveliest profusion. The hedges of scarlet ger-
anium and coleus were wonderful to look upon,
and the air was scented with heliotrope and roses
of every hue. There is so little change in the
seasons that many of these flower bloom all the
year round.

The bougainvillier was one mass of purple of
every shade, growing in a marvellous state of
luxuriance — it is a different looking plant altogether
from that grown in a conservatory, the colour is
so rich and th^ foliage so thick and massive.

The palms in the pretty gardens were a great
source of admiration, so large were the glossy
leaves, and so imposing in size.

Alamandas grew their lovely yellow bells on
shrubs and trees; crotons were six feet high, and
the lillies and beautiful red spotted leaves of the
cultivated taro or Calladiums were something for
northern eyes to wonder at.

"wmm^^m'

SCENES IN HAWAII.

ir'iji

f:!

An effort to find the An<:^lican Church resulted
in our missing the way and finding ourselves in a
Methodist house of worship, known as the " Fort
Street Church," which was well lighted and most
comfi^rtably fitted with cushioned pews. An ex-
cellent choir was seated on a large platform, in
front of which were the usual arrangements of
chairs, desk, etc., for the minister.

Sitting there, one could harJly realize the fact
that home was so many thousand miles away, but
one had to remember that the month was Novem-
ber, and the light dresses of the many fair and
dark women about seemed to tell us that we were
in another atmosphere, much more like June than
anything else.

Coming back to the hotel vvj saw a large open
gateway, and wandering in we found that the
Cathedral of Honolulu was inside a large com-
pound, with fine large trees about it and the
Rectory, which was close by. Beside the church
was a school for natives and whites (girls) presided
over by the members of the Anglican sisterhood.

We peeped in and saw a large, plain wooden
building with a flower-decked altar at the far end,
and a surpliced choir on each side of the chancel.

»• i.

-VIL fiP

.****'%

SCENES IN HAWAII.

Sometime later, a most ambitious building was
begun to take the place of the Old St. Andrew's,
and it is still in process of construction. It will be
a beautiful church when finished, and the town may
well be proud of such a handsome structure. The
stone was all sent from England, and the church
will be a memento of the untiring exertions of
bishop, pastor and congregation. We found there
were two native services in the Hawaiian language
besides the English ones. The rector, the Rev.
Alexander Mackintosh generally taking the native
services, his many years of residence in Honolulu
having made him perfectly familiar with all the
dialects of Hawaii.

,11' '

SOENK.S IN HAWAII.

I}l!lll

n :

:il:

CHAPTER II.

Welcome to the King. — Proce&.ion in palace grounds-. — Dancing
girls. — Fire l)rigade. — Concert in opera house. — Hawaiian
band and Ilerr Berger. — Moonlight in Honolulu. — Expedition
up the Pali. — Riding party. — Waikiki. — Luncheon party at the
Kings. — Her Majesty Queen Kapiolani. — Leis. — Old Wahine
with fish, — Tabu. — •Hawaiian curiosities at the palace. — Feather
robes. — Kahilis. — Queen Kapiolani's gift to Queen Victoria,

TT7HE next day wa.s ushered in brightly and

noisily, the firing of guns and letting off

of crackers going on without intermission.

The streets were gaily decorated with bunting,
and numbers of arches erected, some of them very
pretty. The oddest was the Chinese one, which
was very large, in the shape of a pagoda, and quite
brilliant in its effect at a distance by dint of lan-
terns of every shape and form, paper flowers of
every hue, and numerous strange looking objects,
of which the " reason why " would be known to a
Chinaman only. On all sides, in letters of flowers,
bunting, etc., appeared the words, " Aloha " —
" Aloha nui " — which is the general salutation of
Hawaiian welcome and greeting.

At mid-day we took up a position near the gates
opening into the grounds surrounding the King's

=^«'W»W"'*"

»".t iiy i i i %

SCENES IN HAWAII.

new palace, which was then in an unfinished state,
to watch the procession, which was to be held in
honour of the Kind's return. Presently the strains
of the band were heard and the long stream of
natives began to pass, clad in every colour of the
rainbow, profus^y be-ribboned, and carrying large
silken banners, gorgeously embroidered and bearing
mottoes in English and Hawaiian*; one of these
inscriptions roused our curiosity, being " Hail,
David," til) we found that David was the King's
English name.

One old native, bent and gray, carried a lighted
torch, made of some hard, yellow nuts called
ku-kui, very oily and idflammablc, which were
bound together at the top of -a large staff. The
custom of bearing a lighted torch in the day-time
is a right belonging only to those who can claim
true descent from the High Chiefs, or relationship
with the royal family. We saw but the one, so
apparently the connection was not a large one !

Without exception, men, women and children
wore leis of flowers and leaves. We followed the
crowd presently into the meadow-like grounds and
sat down on the grass under a tree to watch the
curious sight. -

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

ilHi

Hi !

The sun shone down hotly as though it was
June, and the white walls of the p. Jace were quite
dazzling. Beh'iid the palr.ce, a little to one side,
were the houses of the King- and Queen, long, low
structures, with wide verandahs, enclosed with pink
lattice work. At the top of the. steps stood His
Majesty, attired in snowy white, with his black
head uncovered, and behind him stood several
members of the royal family. His appearance was
greeted with loud shouts of " Aloha ! Aloha ! " He
made a speech in Hawaiian, and ended with a loud
" Aloha," and then disappeared, the ladies being
seen now and then through the lattice. The crowd
dispersed about the grounds, sitting and lying
under the trees, some eating and drinking, and
each talking and chattering at the top of their
voices, which when raised are anything but musical,
but good nature seemed to reign, and the effect of
the whole mass was that of jolly, dark faces,
flashing eyes, gleaming white teeth, light dresses,
and brilliant flowers, making a bright, tropical-like
picture never to be forgotten.

In the evening, we returned to the palace
groundSj where the crowd was more dense than
even in the morning, especially in the vicinity of

. ,. - r-.T nv -trr ^ V-jiT.

SCENES tN HAWAII.

the King's house, the verandahs and surrounding
trees being briUiantly lit up.

We noticed a group of girls standing together
dressed somewhat differently from others. They
appeared to have white holokus on, but instead of
being long and flowing, these were drawn up
through a girdle of sweet-smelling leaves, forming
a short, full skirt, their arms and feet were bare,
with curious fur-like anklets, their hair hanging
down with wreaths of flowers and leaves amongst
it. These were the dancing girls, professional
dancers, who were to perform during the evening
for the amusement of the King and his friends.

There was a procession of some fire engines
going on, and they filed in and passed before the
King, who is intensely interested in the Honolulu
Fire Brigade, rendering great service himself on
many occasions. The Chinese have a very good
engine amongst others.

Later in the week we were asked to go to a
concert to be given on the occasion of opening the
Royal Opera House, and of course we accepted the
invitation gladly. The British vice-consul had
kindly given us seats in his box, from which we
had an excellent view of the whole house, including
the royal box, which was opposite.

SCteNES IN HAWAII.

'■■"ii

:^il

The concert itself was a ^ood amateur one ;

no natives taking part in the programme.

One beautiful contralto voice thrilled the audi-
ence with the pathetic strains of " Three Fishers,"

and there was some unusually good playing on

the piano.

The house is a pretty one, fitted up in bright
crimson, and well lighted. Only two boxes, but
both very large ; in the one opposite was His
Majesty, and his sisters, Princesses Lydia Lillio-
kalani, and Like-like, both very dark, and in even-
ing dress. I could not help recalling the occasion
of seeing King Kalakua in Her Brittannic Majesty's
box at Covent Garden a' few months before, where
he had been watched with great interest by a
London audience, listening to the great Diva.

Honolulu beasts, and rightly, of a most excellent
band, composed entirely of natives, led and taught
by a German band-master, whose untiring energy
has brought out a great deal of musical Hawaiian
talent. I always regarded Herr Berger, as the
most wonderful man in Hawaii ; when one knows

•

the difficulty of inducing a native to stick to
any one duty, one can only marvel at the patience
and tact he must have possessed and exercised
to attain the result he has. Not knowing the

^^^^^mmmmimmtmm

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

Hiiwaiian language on arrival, he had not only
to learn that well enough to speak it in an
ordinary way, but he had, no doubt, to invent
words, to make natives understand the use of
instruments they had never seen. Ilerr Berger
gets out all the new mui.ic, and it is indeed most
delightful to listen to the strains of the band,
mingled now and then with the voices, which
take up certain parts, and sing them together.
The men's dress was very effective, a combination
of white trousers, scarlet tunics faced with black and
gold, and white peaked caps, which must have taken
their fancy amazingly, as Hawaiians in common
with others of a tropical climate, love brightness
of colour in every shape.

Herr Berger had also composed a national
anthem, called " Hawaii Ponoi," which was ex-
tremely pretty, and rather stately, and was played
at the royal entrance, and at the conclusion of
a programme.

Every Saturday afternoon the band played in the
pretty gradens of Emma Square, so named after
the well known and well loved Queen Dowager ;
and sometimes moonlight nights would be render-
ed even more lovely in the Hotel grounds, by the
band playing in a pavillion erected for them there

SCENES IN HAWAII.

m !

Honolulu by mootili<^ht is indeed a '* dream of
beauty," sitting on the verandah of the hotel with
the palms, ferns, flowerin<^ shrubs, and tall, feathery
trees all silvered over, and the mountain throwing
uncertain shadows, one felt that to be in a tropical
country was a very charming experience.

Jhis mountain seemed to rise almost immedi-
ately behind the town, and the lights and shadows
were ever varying, now deep purple in the morning,
grow'ng brighter as the day wore on, until the
setting sun made the peaks glow with roseate hues,
and then fading with the rapidly descending,
tropical twilight, and again bursting out with a
new, soft beauty in the brilliant moonlight.

The excursion up this Pali or mountain was a
very beautiful one ; we were invited to join a
large party going up to the point of view, and
one fine morning had a delightful expedition.

Many of the young people were on horseback,
and to witness perfect enjoyment, one has to see
a Honolulu riding party ; how they enjoy it ?
and how, oh how, they scamper ! up hill, and down
hill, anywhere and everywhere at full canter, with
the reins held in a fashion mainly peculiar to
themselves, very far out to one side, whips going-—

m^niiL^m .^jj

:X„..2a?_

SCENES IN HAWAII.

spur often too. It was our first si'^ht of a young
lady riding astride like tlie natives ; I got used
to it by seeing it so often afterwards, but never
could like it — I think it is too ungraceful a position
for a white woman ever to become it, though we
saw many excellent riders.

We mounted up, up, slowly enough at the last,
until apparently not very far from the top, got out
of the carriages, the young folks dismounting and
tying up their horses, turned a corner of the road,
and then, wJiat a view from the bend of the hill
before the path descended into the valley, lay before
us. The sea was rolling calm and blue beyond,
and between, were rice plantations with their tender
green showing against the darker foliage of trees
surrounding the white houses gleaming in the
sunlight.

The coast-line bounded all this colour, and the
dark, rugged background of the Pali made a beau-
tiful picture, especially favoured as we were with a
day of glorious sunshine and cool breezes.

Shortly after our arrival in the capital we were
bidden to a luncheon party at Waikiki, a suburb
about two miles from Honolulu, where King Kala-
kua has a pretty little countiy house, to which he

. Bl^- <HPy^tnilflLill THiar ■ iSltiA^K^: •

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

I i I

was very fond of resorting for a change from the
affairs of state, and \vc were very much pleased to
accept the kind invitation.

It was a lovely summer-like day as we drove
down with Her Hrittanic Majesty's Commissioner,
who was always a most kind friend to us, and who
was going to the luncheon also.

The drive itself was most enjoyable ; out of the
town, past beautiful pa'm groves, houses fairly em-
bowered (I never realized the real meaning of that
word till I saw Honolulu) in flowering shrubs and
luxuriant creepers of all kinds, then through a rice
plantation, along the sea-shore, with a magnificent
grove of cocoa-nut palms towering their graceful
heights on the other side of us, and finally turning
in through a- garden, we found ourselves in front of
a pretty wooden house, painted white, with upper
and lower green verandahs. On the steps stood
the King to receive us, attired as usual in snowy
white, with a big lei of yellow blossoms round his
straw hat and another about his neck. His
Majesty welcomed us most kindly, and then we
were taken into a pretty drawing room and pre-
sented to Queen Kapiolani, a large, rather stout,
woman, with a fine mass of jet black hair, dressed

fc^ .•I^IP i /l^=yVlL HP K^l 'ilT/A w ^

SCENES IN HAWAII.

in a handsome dress of fawn coloured silk with a
lon^ train. The Queen did not speak Kni^jlish at
all, but understood it fairly well, and, at all events
made up for that by her cheery smile of welcome,
shake of tht. hand, and most hearty " Aloha." She
held a number of leis of sweet smelling flowers in
her hand, which she presently gave to us, and we
were each finally decorated with these indispensable
additions to a native feast or p« -ty. The flowers
are nearly always pulled off the stalk close to the
head and strung together on some fine grass, the
long ends of which are left to tie the lei on ; if the
s blossoms are small, several strings are put together,
thus, mine on that occasion was made of the unopen-
ed buds of the white jessmine and the six or eight
threads of the blossoms made up a lovely mass of
odorous ivory beads ; others were of the yellow
ginger, roses, marigolds, etc. The custom is a
graceful pretty one, and with the ladies' light
summer dresses they always looked well, but with
a gentleman's conventional attire of morning dress
they looked out of keeping, and those unfortunates
who disliked the strong perfume, generally con-
trived to get rid of the leis as soon as possible.

The dining-room was a good-sized room, exceed-
ingly pretty, with walls and ceilings painted white

ii'

SCENES IN HAWAII.

i ;'

and pink, the latter being made something like the
roof of a tent ; matting on the floois, cane furniture
and lace curtains, made up a " harmonious whole."
The luncheon table was covered with flowers, and
everything was most tastefully prepared. Curry,
made of shrimps, which abound among the rocks,
and flavoured with cocoa-nut, was served in the
middle of the menu, and the rice, limes and chutney
of mangoes, served separately, as the proper accom-
paniments. The curry, by the way, was pro
nounced by one of the guests as being the best he
had ever tasted out of India. Another ciish which
seemed to find favour with the gentlemen, was com-
posed of caviare spreaci on small delicate biscuits,
and on the top of each, a fresh raddish nicely pre-
pared. Ices were served in, inall bowls of Japanese
lacquer work, and magnificent fruits concluded
the repast. Afterwards we all adjourned to the
garden, where, while sitting under the cocoa palms,
with the rolling of the Pacific heard close to us,
coffee and cigarettes were brought. The lovely
warmth of the day, and the soft air made it very
hard to realize that it was the middle of November.
Truly, life in the tropics has cliirms of its own,
when one thinks of the cold north-east blasts in
contrast. Amongst the friends gathered at lun-

j^ mryikY^ v:> ^ s\\ m rrr^T,

SCENES IN HAWAII.

cheon that day were Mr. and Mrs. Lambert, whose
splendid steam yacht was then in harbour, I beh'eve
then the largest afloat, and which naturally created
great interest, though the ** Sunbeam " had been a
former visitor to Honolulu some years previously.
Mr. Lambert's anecdotes were always amusing, and
while listening to some of his stories, we were sud-
denly aware of the presence of an old native woman
crawling across the grass on her knees,, holding
a dish of freshly-caught fish of the most extra-
ordinarily brilliant colours. They reminded me of
some I had once seen in Bermuda, but these were
even more wonderful in their opaline hues. The
wizzened old creature held up the dish in front of
the King, still crouching at his feet, and we
all admired with the genuine admiration of
strangers. At a nod from His Majesty, she fell
almost flat on her chest and writhed (there is no
other woi'd to express her motions) out of the
garden laughing and chattering to herself The
servants were all natives, and probably friends, who
would see that the old woman did not go away
unrewarded. In old times no one could approach
a high chief except by crawling, and in addition,
had to take the risk of finding him in good humour.
If in a bad temper and the chief chose to move so

^'-^ ^'-

'1: i

SCENES IN HAWAII.

that his shadow fell on the person approachinc^,
that person, be it he or she, became talm, which
signifies more than our word taboo, for once falling
under tabu meant not only being shunned, but not
allowed to touch anything belonging to others, and
to live how they could, on what they could, apart
from all. [f the chief happened to be in a very bad
humour he would order the tabued creature to be
killed, Instant death followed such an order.

Mr. Lambert had an artist friend with him on
board the yacht who had wished to sketch some of
these rainbow-colored fish, but I imagine the vivid
hues would have faded before they could have been
transferred to canvas.

On taking our leave, the King said he was then
going into the town to shew Mr. and Mrs. Lambert
some ancient Hawaiian curiosities which were at
the palace, and most kindly invited us to accom-
pany them. We considered ourselves most fortunate,
as now-a-days, unless in the houses of the high
chiefs, one cannot see any good native work.

Accordingly we drove back to the town behind
His Majesty's carriage, and in a short time drew up
in front of the lattice-worked verandah which we
had seen on the day of the procession. The door,

/w«^>ii HO • »ajnrwy3ii''''iBr ^>>t.

SCENES IN HAWA'I.

as usual, opened at once into tlie drawinf^-room,
and here were the cabinets contain in<j the interesting
reUcs of ancient Hawaii, and there was a goodly
show indeed. Rolls of the finest tapa cloth, of
which the dresses of both men and women used to
be made, were unfolded for inspection This tapa
is made by beating the fibres of certain bark into a
pulp, by means of a heavy mallet of wood or stone
on a large flat log, and when pulled and stretched to
the desired thickness and width, the pulp is left to
dry in the sun, and when in condition for it, is dyed
various colours and patterns, some of which are
most ingenious. Sometimes Grecian borders; w^edge
shaped figures ; round, square and triangular figures ;
dots, crosses, fine lines and coarse ones ; red, black,
fawn and yellow, were the favourite colours, which,
no doubt were made from herbs and plants. The
tapa is seldom or never made now, though in old
days, the malos of the men, and skirts for the v/omen
were made of many folds of the cloth, as well as
coverings of all kinds ; but that industry has passed
away with the arrival of American and English
prints and calicoes ; and the valleys resound no
more to the tap-tap of the tapa mallet. We saw
beautiful calabishes; bowls of elaborately carved
gocoa-nut, shining like ebony, quantities of fragrant

^r.^^'jmn^'^m. '^ 4i-ji«

SCENES IN HAWAII.

sandal-wood. A perfect model of a native grass hut
quite small, but most exact in each detail, was much
admired, as were also the immense strings of tiny
white shells, only found on Niihau, and which
formed a lei to be worn by royalty. Massed
together, these shells have a curious appearance,
and we were told that when Queen Emma was
presented to Her Brittannic Majesty, her enormous
necklace of Niihau shells created quite a sensation.

The great feather robe was also produced ; and it
was indeed a wonder, as large as a counterpane,
and made of millions of tiny gold coloured feathers,
taken from a small black bird, called the Ooo, under
the wings of which are found only two small yellow
feathers.

These feathers are woven into a fine kind of
twine or fibrous lace work, one feather laid over
the other, each feather only one inch long, and of
the most brilliant gold colour imaginable. This
robe had a broad border of sapphire blue satin,
which threw the gold colour into high relief, the
peculiar lustre being shown to great advantage. It
was a most beautiful and wonderful piece of work
and no doubt took years to accomplish. The very
ancient cloak only worn by the Kammehame has

'WPr ^ik_VJ!^r.^i

SCENES IN HAWAII.

by the wish of the Queen Dowa^i^er been buried
with the last king of direct descent from that Hne
of chiefs.

The value of this cloak is of course not estimable
in money, as probably the secret of making them
will be lost in years to come, and besides tliis,
the little bird which used to be in such myriads
in Hawaii, is fast disappearing before the ruthless
gun of the sportsman.

Another ornament of feathers was also interesting,
though perhaps in another way ! This was a
strip of the fibrous canvas of about two yards
in length and perhaps eight inches wide, also
covered with the gold feathers, but with a double
border of bright crimson feathers ; and laid across
the strip at regular intervals, were rows of
shining human teeth ! It gave one an uncanny
kind of shiver ! His Majesty hastened to tell us
of the old custom of which this is a relic, of
extracting the teeth from any chief after death
on the battle-field, and thus preserving them as
a sign of prowess, for posterity to gaze and
wonder at. Perhaps for more reasons than one,
as the teeth themselves were magnificent, as nearly
all Hawaiian teeth are.

B'll

SCENES m HAWAII.

The tall Kahilis, or rods of white feathers with
long handles of tortoiseshell, to be borne before the
monarch on occasions of state, also were showi^. to
us — and after conveying our warmest thanks to
Their Majesties for the kindness extended to us,
we left the palace with a bright remembrance
of one of the happiest days spent in Honolulu.

1 have before me now, a picture of the jubilee
G^ift of the Queen of Hawaii, to Oueen Victoria.
It is a royal monogram of large size, formed of
the lovely gold feathers of the Oo ), surrounded
by a wreath or border of gold and crimson feathers,
the work of Queen Kapiolani's own hands. The
monogram is mounted on royal blue plush, set
in a frame of gold, with the Royal arms, and the
arms of the Queen of Hawaii on either side.
The outer border of blue is set with golden stars
of eight points, representing the eight islands of
the Sandwich group Above is the Royal Crown
and cushion set with diamonds. Thousands of
feathers were used in the manufacture of this
gift ; which must have been interesting, even amongst
that marvellous display witnessed by so many of
Her Majesty's subjects during the jubilee exhibition.

SCENES IN HAWAII.

CHAPTER III.

The yacht "Wanderer." — Mr. 1 amberts' invitation to Queen
Emma. — Poi. — Tare patches. — Method of makin^j poi. —
Method of eating it.— E.xcellenl food. — Poi dog.s. — Taro flour,
— Chinese making poi.

TT7HE visit of the steam yacht "Wanderer" was
^ a source of great pleasure to the people of
Honolulu. Mr. and Mrs. Lambert were most kind
and hospitable in their invitations, one of which we
were delighted to avail ourselves. To my inexper-
ienced eyes, it was as much unlike a "yacht "as
anything could well be ; everything in such stately
order, and room for everything and everybody. We
greatly admired the beauty and convenience of all
the arrangements. The cabins were most charming
little bedrooms, the saloon a most comfortable
diningroom, while the upper saloon was like a
veritable museum, on account of all the curiosities
which had been collected from all quarters of the
globe, and suspended at every angle conceivable
from the walls and ceilings ; delightful seats every-
where, and afternoon tea, made us feel very much
at home indeed. The " Wanderer " was said at
that time to be the largest steam yacht afloat, but
even her capacities were overtaxed, when, on Mr.

I tl

SCENES IN HAWAII.

■>- V

Lambert kindly ofiferini; to convey Queen Emma
to Hilo on Hawaii, Her Majesty graciously ac-
ceptinij the courtesy, she sent word that she must
bring a few attendants, and made her appearance
with no less then eighteen followers in her suite !
However, a native can sleep anywhere, with no
other provisions than a mat and a calabash of poi.

This poi (pronounced with a short, sharp accent,
indescribable to those who have not heard Hawaiian)
is the staple food of the native, made from the root
of the taro, I believe, a species of caladium, and
which is grown in great quatities on all the islands.
Anyone can see " patches " as they are always
called, during a ride along the banks of any stream,
or skirting a valley wherein the native loved to
make his home. I say loved, for the once fertile
valleys are now deserted, with only the traces of
the terraces where, in the old days, the taro flourished
in profusion. These terraces are often carried down
the slope ct a-fiill, so that a stream of water can,
by an ingenious system of canals, be easily diverted
from one to another, without any great exertion,
a thing which the Hawaiian abhors with a holy
,; horror. The root is planted from the stems with
the young leaves, which are first put in mounds
of rich, bog-like earth, and when the root has

SCENES IN HAWAII.

formed, arc transplanted into rows some inches
apart, the water is then turned into the irrigating
ditches, and the plants left till fit for use. A hill
side covered with a succession of these taro patches
is a fresh cool thing to look at, each patch being
outlined by banks of grass, on which one can
walk from one terrace to another. When ready
for use the roots are pulled up bodily with the
stems and leaves adhering, the young stalks being
boiled as a vegetable called luau, and the old leaves
form a nourishing food for the dearly beloved pig,
which animal plays as important a part in a native
household, as in that of a Paddy ! The taro root
is boiled over the fire which, as a rule is made in
a hole in the ground outside the house, and when
soft enough to have the tough, fibrous skin pulled
off is placed in a large wooden bowl, almost flat
—very like an ordinary mincing board ; generally
hollowed out of one piece of wood. The natives,
sometimes women, sometimes men, then take up
their position on either side of the board, sitting
a la Turque, each with a heavy stone mallet, and
break up the smoking pile of roots into a thick,
heavy paste, in which condition it is called pai-ai.
Before it is to be eaten, it is stirred with the
addition of cold water to the consistence of thick

:!{|

"m^ m:. -^^^ ^ \.Mt^:^ 9k mp i jt >

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

V l\

sago, left to ferment for a few clays, until it gets
the sour tciste supposed to be correct, and then
put into calabashes, (perhaps one for the general
table) and the whole family assemble to enjoy it.
One often sees a circle seated on the ground near
a hut, at all hours of the day, with a huge calabash
of poi in the middle. Each native, man, woman
or child, dips two fingers, (the more grimy the
better) into the glutincnis mass, and with a kind
of double twist gather as much as possible, and
throwing back the he. id, the fingers are placed
in the mouth, and the food sucked off them with
immense gusto. I was anxious when I first went
to the islands to witness the performance of eat-
ing poi, but having once seen it, never cared
to repeat the experiment. It was a horrible sight
to strange eyes, though one must admit that the
rapidity with which the whole thing is done, is
indeed astounding. Poi has all the elements
necessary to nourishment, and is often ordered
to invalids as being remarkably easy of digestion.
Many white people like it much, especially with
salt fish or meat, but they, I need scarcely mention,
eat it in a different manner to the native. Children
consume quantities of poi mixed with milk and
sugar. There is a kind of taro which is pink in

"'A

JL^

SCEMES IN HAWAII.

colour, but which is kept for the king or high
chief's use ; and a friend who travelled much on
Hawaii with His Majesty, told us the poi produced
from it was particularly delicate and good. The
Hawaiians have also what are called Poi dogs,
which arc in appearence very much the same as
small white French poodles, these are greatly
petted, fed on nothing but i)oi, until they are of the
desired age, and then — horrible thought ! are eaten
as a special delicacy, but 1 must say I never
heard of one English visitor being induced to taste
poi dog, unless mayhap, under false pretences !

There is now a manufactory for making flour
from the taro, which it is claimed will make ex-
cellent poi, as well as cake, bread and blanc-mange,
but it is not so satisfying or nourishing as the
food made from the root itself.

Poi is made by the Chinese, and sold in all
stages by them, a common sight in the streets of
Honolulu being a Chinaman, in his queer, loose
blue garments, legs bare from the knees, and a
big straw hat, bearing on his shoulders a pole at
either end of which, is suspended a five gallon
kerosene tin can, filled with pai-ai or poi.
which is retailed to the native who is too lazy
to make his own food. Passing along the Chinese

SCENES IN HAWAII.

quarters one day, I peeped in an open door, and
there beheld two Chinamen, 'one on either side of a
huge tin bath, pounding away with all their might
at poi, their yellow skins shining with the exer-
tion, and very little clothing on ; the day was hot,
and the little shop was hotter still, I shuddered,
notwithstanding the heat, and did not envy the
consumers of that poi !

One small taro patch will almost keep a native
in food, the poi being generally made once a week ;
the root is very good Doiled or baked, and broken
in pieces, is a mottled purple colour, and is a
standard vegetable at almost every table in the
islands.

S(,'KNES IN HAWAII.

CHAPTER IV.

Voyage between Honolulu and llanai. — -Home at Raj)aa, — Arrival
at Kilawce. — " Wailele Hale."— Uarden there. - Different
Fruits. — 1 lowers. — Trees. — Variety of colour in Landscape.

VIIORTLY after the festivities in honour of
Kin^^ Kalakua's return were over, we de-
parted for Kauai, " The Garden Island," as it is
called, where our plantation home was. The small,
and then, most uncomfortable inter-island steamer
left at about five in the afternoon, and we were on
board the tossing little boat in good time to watch
the curious scene about us.

Any steamer leaving the wharf at Honolulu is a
source of immense interest always to the natives ;
they are very lond of travelling from one island to
another, and invariably accompany their friends for
a final leave-taking. The chattering and laughing
is also mingled often with the shedding of tears
and waili.ng, in both of which accomplishments the
Hawaiian excels. They can command tears with-
out any provocation, and it is a most curious sight
to see two old women meet on a wharf, not having

■r'^-^mm-^m^^^mm

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

..J '
IP

[','1 .-

seen each other for some time. They will cry
" Aloha " — embrace in the fondest manner, and
with a jerk of their Holokus (peculiar to them-
selves, and not to be described in words alone), sit
down in the dust a la Turque, throw their
arms around each other's portly form, and forth-
with bet^in a swayini^ mc v)n, the tears pouring
down their brown faces, with hats on the back of
their heads from which the black hair streams, and
wailing at intervals, with a long cry, low at the
beginning, and getting louder and louder, till it
finally sinks away to silence, only to be raised
again immediately, in precisely the same manner.

Af.;er several minutes' duration the wailing
v/ould stop as suddenly as it had begun ; the tears
dry up, and the much loved pipe, black, short and
very dirty would make its appearance. One of the
friends would produce the rank, strong tobacco
which is grown plentifully on the islands, fill and
light up, take a whiff or two, and present it to the
other, who would follow suit ; their countenances
clear as if by magic, and presently the old ladies
would rise, take each other by the hand, and march
off together to see some mutual acquaintance,
V/hcre in all probability the whole performance
would be repeated. In travellmg, they always take

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

their mats with ihem, and generally some gourds
of poi. With these they are quite independent, and
on getting on board they at once disappear behind
the curtain of matting, which is supposed to divide
the steerage from the cabin. If the weather be
smooth, they will laugh, talk and chatter most of
the night, in all likelihood playing cards, of which
they are passionately fond. ]^ut, generally speak-
ing, the passage is a rough one ; and being bad
sailors, as a rule, the results are not, strictly speak-
ing, pleasant. Cabin passengers are each given a
narrow, clean mattress, and two pillows, to be placed
on deck and one has to make the best of this
scanty accommodation. Meals are served in the
dark, musty little saloon below, but I never de-
scended, even to explore these regions. One could
take fruit, biscuits, etc., and thus be tolerably com-
fortable.

Very early the next morning we anchored some
distance from the low shore, and between the
steamer and wharf there appeared to me to be a
very angry looking stretch of sea. Presently a
large boat was brought to the side of the steamer,
rowed by natives, and a little gangway was let
down for ^ the passengers to descend by. The
Captain jumped in first, and as I grasped the ropes.

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•;■ I'

SCENES IN HAWaU.

wondering if I should not drop into the sea instead
of the boat, which was bobbing about far beneath
me in a most uncomfortable, wobbling kind of
fashion, I felt two strong arms seize me, and a
voice saying, in a strong American accent, "Just
leave yourself to me, and let go ! " which I immedi-
ately did, and was deposited at once on c. very rough
wooden seat, with my feet far from the ground ! If
one can use such an expression with regard to a
boat ! The Captain remarked in ^a tone of satisfac-
tion, " If the lady who sprained hv.r foot last week
in trying to help herself had done what you did
and * let ^oj she would have been all right now."
So my advice to unwary lady travellers is to " let
go " when you are told. An old, rather stout lady,
who had come on another occasion by the same
steamer, happened to tell me that when she was
hanging mid-way between the sea and boat, that
the Captain remarked cheerfully, " Now, ma'am,
you just leave go and skip ! " " But, Captain," she
cried, "my skipping days are over." " Never mind,
ma'am, you just skip, and I'll fix you ! "

We danced over the surf into smooth water, and
on landing found that a large rockaway wiih a pair
of mules had been most kindl> and thoughtfully
sent to meet us by a friend, to convey us over

■ ■ "*'•. V.^ JM^At— fc^J

SCENES IN HAWAII.

the fifteen miles which lay between us and our
destination.

But first we availed ourselves of a most hos-
pitable invitation to take breakfast with Mrs. Dole,
wife of the manager of Kapaa plantation, on which
we now were. Their pretty home stood on a high
hill, visible for miles about, and from the plateau in
front of the house could be seen one of the finest
views on the island. Mr. Dole, who had come with
us from Honolulu, preceded us by a short cut, a
bridle path, up which he rode, and we followed more
slowly by a road which wound gradually up to the
house itself, and at the door stood Mrs. Dole to
welcome us. Such a bonnie sweet face, with the
loveliest golden brown hair and fair complexion,
which shewed no traces of the hot sun and salt
winds, to which she had been accustomed all her
life. The house was a large one wi'-h a huge
verandah running round three sides, one big sitting
room the width of the house, opening at once at
both ends on the verandah, and a dining room in
the same way; beyond the sitting rooms were bed-
rooms, some opening only on to the verandah ; the
kitchens were a little beyond the house, as is the
case almost universally ; and a few hundred yards
away were a couple of tiny cottages, each with one

f'n^,m^'Mmr'^ w^'

SCENES IN JIAWAir.

,!'

It;;

room — a dressing room —and a verandah. These
cottage rooms are generally kept for visitors, and a
most sensible fashion, (when so many houses are
built on one floor), thus ensuring peaceful solitude,
if wished, for one's island friends.

Mr. Dole's liospitable table was a picture to be
remembered; the fine, stalwart figure and kind
face of the master of the liouse, the sweet, fresh
looks of the wife, and no less than eight blooming
young faces gathered round. We were very hungry
and did full justice to the good fare, with appetites
sharpened by the see breezes, and in less than an
hour afterwards we had said good-bye to our
friends and were on our way to Kilauea. But
many a pleasant day did I spend afterwards with
them. Nothing could exceed the true kindness
with which we were treated at that house, and I
think we all felt a bitter pang when we finally said
farewell.

The drive from Kapaa was a very beautiful one,
though very tiring, from the number of hills to be
surmounted, or, as they say in Hawaii, " gulches
crossed." The mules galloped up and down hill
and walked on the level, a mode of travel remark-
able to my unused eyes. Fording was another

KVol^J

SCENKS 1?^ HAWAII.

experience, not pleasant ; the water apparently
going one way and you striving for another is not
the most delightful sensation ; however, we con-
quered all obstacles, and the day was still youn'g
when we turned in at a wooden gate, which was
surmounted by an arch of evergreens as a welcome.
I saw several flags flying from different parts of the
plantation, also in our honour, and in a few minutes
we passed under another arch and drew up in front
of "Wailele Cottage," or " VVailele Hale," as the
natives called it, meaning ** House by the Water-
fall." The hpuse was most beautifully situated,
almost on the brink overlooking the Kilauea River,
which rushed down from the lovely fall just above
the house.

The river was very wide just opposite the side
verandah, and looking down the high bank the
ferns and foliage were in lovely profusion.

In the marshy land across the river, at the foot
of the bank was a splendid grove of bannanas, of an
especially good kind, and many a feast did we have
from them.

The verandahs w^ere soon covered with creepers ;
passion flowers of a deep purple colour grew in wild

It"

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;■■ in

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

If I;

l< -l :

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luxuriance, as also honey suckle and begonia. vanus-
ta, the last a most gorgeous climber, bearing blos-
soms of a deep gold colour. A hedge of scented ge-
ranium ran up on each side of the pathway to the
gate ; double scarlet geraniums with enormous
blossoms, pink begonias, oleanders all flourished ;
a bed of variegated caladium marked a damp
corner ; shrubs of scarlet hibiscus, and clumps of
the Australian castor oil trees made bits of colour,
and handsome stalks of sunflowers stood up in
all their glory. Tuberoses grew beautifully, mari-
golds of every shade of yellow ; and balsams,
which were unwittingly planted, grew in such pro-
lific quantities that we had to have a periodical
rooting up ; also vincas ; some cocoa palms from
Tahiti, the nuts given to us by a friend, and a tiny
grove of orange trees soon promised well. A
large tree of mangoes gave delicious fruit, and a
huge grove of Oheas gave us the cool juicy moun-
tain apples.

At a distance of about two miles was a capital
grove of lime trees, and one of the favourite expe-
d'tions was a visit to the grove, on horseback, well
armed with saddle-bags.

Arrived there, or rather as close to the valley, in

SCENES IN HA.WA1I.

which the grove w.is, as we could get, we would
dismount, scramble down the hill, whereon grew
several fine bread-fruit trees, and after many
struggles with the thorn-covered branches of tb'^
lime trees, we would emerge, victorious, and laden
with the green and gold-^n spoil. The limes were
quite as good as lemons, and if they had been left
to attain full growth would, no doubt, have been as
large, but the Portuguese labourers liked them s
well as we did, with the lamentable result that after
a fine Sunday or public holiday (of which there
were many) we would find that our favourite grove
had been well ransacked.

Guavas grew in quantities also close to our
home ; they are a lovely fruit to look at with their
golden skin, and when ()[)eiied disclose a brilliant
pink colour with dozens o( seeds packed close
together. There are different varieties, some soft
and sweet, some sharply acid, and again others,
called the strawberry guava, from its resemblance
in flavour to that fruit. The guava grows on a
shrub of varying height, bearing fruit when very
small ; the leaf not unlike a birch, and the blossom
white, with a scent and appearance akin to the
syringa.

: iT ^ I^tJWI^ ■<»' W"^F~ JT • -*

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

t
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■■s

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Excellent jelly ami marmalade are made from
guavas, as well as other dishes. I well remember
a good planter of Mauai telling me his wife had
sent one hundred pounds of guava jelly, of her own
making, to her people in Norway as a Christmas
present, not a cheap one either, as the express,
etc., was $1.00 a pound.

The papaiti tree is another well-known in Kauai,
and we had a number of our own planting. l^Iiis
tree has several good qualities to recommend it in
a tropical climate. It grows with astonishing rapi-
dity, a plant from seed shooting up in a few months
to a full-grown tree ; the leaves which are long,
with curiously cut-out edges, grow from the tops,
gathering themselves together and springing out in
form not unlike an umbrella tree, with the fruit
hanging in a great clump immediately beneath.

The latter vary in size, the largest being that
of an ordinary melon, with a smooth hard skin,
and slightly pear-shaped. As the fruit gets a
slightly yellow colour, it is picked and in a few
days is fit for use. When cut open in the middle,
the two halves are found full of small round seeds,
which are carefully removed, leaving about an
inch of the yellow flesh, and when these hollows

■■T»- «Ht rk'»*

-«^! Wm::9e^

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

are filled with sugar and lime juice, and baked,
the dish is a most appetizing one, and one which
never failed to find favour with our friends.

The toughest meat if wrapped in the papaia
leaves will become tender after such treatment,
and a valuable medicine is made from the fruit
itself, which alone has an anti-scorbutic effect.

Aligator pears have a great attraction for many,

these have a tough greenish brown skin, and

the soft white meat is taken out and spread on
bread, eaten with salt and pepper.

Hawaiian oranges are delicious, and a kind
German having given us permission to invade his
kuliana, or vegetable and fruit garden, we drove
over to it, to find orange trees of enormous height,
with their golden fruit lying in heaps which we les-
sened considerably ; they grow wild in many parts
of the islands and bear in profusion. And, can
anyone imagine anything much more poetic in
idea, or delicious in flavour, than honey made from
orange blossoms ? A friend told me that at certain
times of the year, the bees used to gather their
material from the orange groves on her father's
ranche, and that honey was always known as the
" orange-blossom honey," most idyllic, that ! The

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■^'%. MP

:' I

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SCENKS IN HAWAII.

bread fruit tree ( I wonder ivJiy bread fruit ? As
unlike that staple production of northern climes as
anything can well be!) is a very fine, handsome
tree, with large irregular leaves growing in bunches,
and the round, knotty fruit growing singly. It
must be picked in a certain condition of ripeness to
be eaten, as if left until it is yellow, it falls to the
ground to be found quite decayed. So when it is
desired for the table, a native or South Sea
Islander is sent on a climbing expedition, and
soon discovers one with the proper greenish yellow
hue, a hole is cut in the rind to the required
depth, and filled with salt ; it is then baked, in
the coals if possible, and broken into rough pieces
when dished.

To my taste it was anything but nice, and in
fact I thought I had by mistake got on my plate
some bad sweet potatoes once, when dining at a
friends, and naturally said nothing of it, when I
heard my neighbor remark to our hostess, " Well !
I do think that is the very nicest bread fruit I
ever tasted ! " All my ideas anent the bread
fruit in the " Swiss Family Robinson," were im-
mediately put to flight, and I never cared to
repeat the experiment.

ncA

r,;*tij

SCENES IN HAWAII.

Everything nearly grows almost without care
and culture, and a small amount of trouble will
repay the flower and fern lover in a marvellous
fashion. A few tea boxes filled with fern roots
made a lovely window garden, and for months
they flourished, throwing out fresh fronds as the
old ones decayed.

The tree ferns in the damp depths of the
mountain forest were a wonderful sight, the golden
brown vieing with the brilliant green of the great
drooping fronds ; and one day a Chinaman brought
me a most curious plant, which grows parasite-
fashion around the forest trees. The stalk was
long with rings around it. A huge scarlet cup
of a very brillant colour, had long drooping edges,
which seemed to fade off into a pale green, the

tips being quite eighteen inches in length, inside
the cup were three enormous brown stamen, as

large as the very biggest cigar, and much the same
in appearance ; it was a very curious and beauti-
ful plant. A native told me it was called the ii
(ee-ee), and only grew in warm, damp places.

The only tree which to me had a familiar look,

were some tall, thin tapcing yews, or what were

very like them ; at the foot of a steep bank close
4

m^:j^m^x m'js.

SCKMES IN HAWAII.

I I

to Wailclc were three of these trees planted close
together, by an early settler, and their churchyard
appearance was more evident, when 1 discoveerd
that there were in olden days two graves on that
spot. Certainly the luxuriance and variety of vege-
tation is forcibly suggested by the varying tints of
green in a Hawaiian view. I remember Miss
Bird speaking of this in her " Six months in the
Sandwich Islands," and fully agree with all she
says as to the extreme beauty of the foliage there,
though perhaps no colour but green may be seen
for miles. The ragged — always ragged — leaves
of the banana have a deep green, slightly yellowish
tint; the cocoanut palm has even more yellow
in its feathery tops; the 0/im, or mountain apple,
has the rich green of an oak, the maille^ mangoe,
and lime trees the same ; while the kiikui is a
light, almost pea-green colour. The pauJiala or
cauhala (co-ha-la) is, while a sapling very like a
young aloe, the leaves being long, pointed, and of
two shades of green ; in growing it assumes a
curious shape, the main trunk throwing out strag-
gling branches and clumps of leaves, each clump,
like a separate plant, growing at the ends of these
strange-looking arms ; at a distance they are very

«K -i -Tt'.^!

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

tropical in appearance. The koa is an ugly tree,
but the wood is beautiful in appearance, and is
much prized for furniture. At one time sandal
wood was found in great quantities in the Islands,
but from sheer carelessness the tree has almost
disappeared. The magnolia is especially admired
from its lovely white blossoms, set like ivory jars
among the thick glossy leaves of deep shining
green.

:*^'%' «»V->-^>f ■■

SCENES IN HAWAII.

! i

CHAPTER V.

Servants ! — Chinese Family, — Mary Mahoi. — Ah Sam and his
Pretty Bride. — Portugese. — Da Souza. — German Servants. —
Ah See and his i\ntics. — Chinese New Year. — " Salt Eggs." —
Opium Smoking. — Hing Hoi and his Music ! — Sin Fat. —
Chinese Gamblers. — Theives. — Scribblings — Decorations. —
Japanese Servants.

MO question now-a-days raises much more inter-
est in a household than that of Servants !
Even in the most civilized countries one has to
confront this, to the mistress of the house^ important
problem and consider the best way of solving it.

How much more then must the stranger, accus-
tomed to the comfort of the modern " Registry
Office for Servants," feel the weight of this ques-
tion on arriving in a far off land like Hawaii !
where, except in the capital, Honolulu, one must
take what is presented, and be thankful if patience
and temper will alike hold out during the weary
work of training a new " hand " or " help " as the
servants were often called ; ignorant of each other's
language even ; and the knowledge that the mere
necessaries of every day comfort must seem to those

SCENES IN HAWAII.

to be taught, the most uncalled for and absurd
superfluities of existence.

The large number of Chinese in the Islands, and
the almost impossibility of making the natives into
the most ordinary domestics, render it generally
the best thing to do, to employ Chinamen alto-
gether, inside and outside the house. On my first
arrival at our house I found a family of Chinese
Christians had been provided for my comfort ; they
were considered a wonderfully lucky chance, and
had been living in a very small bachelor household
for some months in the hope of proving thoroughly
competent servants, which hope, however, was soon
dashed to the ground.

The family consisted of one old woman, who was
supposed to look after the poultry, her daughter,
engaged as genaral indoor servant, and her hus-
band, who was cook, also their two small children.

They all lived in two rooms outside the house,
and thought a great deal of themselves, as they
were " Christians," the younger woman having
been brought up by the family of the Anglican
Bishop of Demerara, from whence they had come
to Hawaii.

Ting was the name of the man, Emily that of

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

liB

his wife, aiul T never heard what name the old
woman went by ; Tini^ appeared dehghted to see
me, laughing and nodding a great deal ; Kmily
likewise beamed on me, and the grandmother kept
in the distance with the two children clinging to
her, grinning a friendly welcome.

The tw^o women were clad in the short full
trousers and long jacket made of dark blue linen,
fastened with tiny round buttons, common to rill
ordinary classes of Chinese women ; the old woman
had a blue cloth covering disposed in folds on her
head and falling about her face, but Emily's black-
locks were arranged in a most complicated coiffure,
he!d together by long silver pins and a big comb.
Both women had bare feet and wore silver or
metal bangles on their arms.

Ting was an excellent cook like many of his
race, and could make most appetizing dishes out of
almost nothing, but his kitchen was best beheld
from a distance ! Emily was both lazy and im-
pertinent, flatly refusing to do any work at all after
two o'clock, and in a few days we found out that
they had been merely making use of the house
given to them, and had been making their own
arrangements to go off as soon as t' jy found they

SCENES IN HAWAII.

could not do exactly as they liked ; so we parted
with no very kind fcelin<^s, and so ended our one
experience of Christian Chinese, Christian only in
name, I fear.

I had profuse offers of help from the daughter of
the native minister, Mary Mahoi by name, a tall,
stout girl with a very black face and quantities of
frizzy black hair ; she bore a good character, and
I thought I would try and make a servant out
of her ; so I tried and, Hke many others, failed in
the attempt. She agreed to come at eight o'clock
every morning and stay as long as I wanted her.
At the first visit to arrange matters, Mary sat, I
should say, for quite two hours looking at me, and
saying at intervals in a funny kind of " coaxing
way," " I'm awful glad to come and help you ; "
my ignorance of the custom of being often obliged
to tell a native visitor that it was time to go, pre-
venting me from doing what I thought might hurt
the girl's feelings, and I was only relieved from my
post by the entrance of some one who was more
familiar with Hawaiian etiquette. For the first
three days Mary appeared punctually, and my
hopes ran high ; the fourth morning she did not
come till ten o'clock; the fifth her mother sent for

SCENES IN HAWAII.

I I

her long before her work was done, and after that,
the novelty of her situation having worn off, her
days were scattered over broad intervals, and I was
obliged to own that native " help " was beyond
me ! Mary would go off to a wood close by and
make long wreathes of ferns and flowers and I
would find them disposed gracefully about the
table and over the toilet glass. One day when I
was in what is called in Island parlance a " great
pilikia," meaning trouble of any description, the
Chinese cook having run off, Mary promised, in
answer to my pathetic appeals, that she would come
without fail ; but not a bit of it ; she never appeared
until three days afterwards, when I saw her in a
dirty holoku and bare feet, coming in the back
verandah looking very sheepish, and on my asking
her the reason of her non-appearance, she replied
her " mother had company ; " evidently their com-
pany was of infinitely more importance than my
wishes, so I gave up the idea for ever of being able to
implant the word "duty " in that direction, though
Mary and I were always great friends, and she wept
freely when I told her we were going away. I took
great interest in her, giving her books to read and
neat articles of attire to put on her fat person, with-
out much effect, however, as all her pocket money

SCENES IN HAWAII.

went in silver bangles, rings, etc., which she always
brought to shew me. One day I met her walking
up the plantation holding a large parasol over her
head, which was extremely funny, as the sun does
not exist that a native cannot enjoy with impunity.

Every few months Mary used to bring one or
two hats for the gentlemen, made by herself from
the tassel of the sugar cane, and very light and
nice they were. She had two sisters married to
white men, mechanics, and was very anxious to be
the bride of another herself, but I fear her wish
was never realized.

Many native women do marry white men, but
the custom is not so frequent now as it was some
time ago. Chinamen also marry native wives, and
are generally very good to them, giving them ser-
vants, horses and all necessaries of comfort to
Hawaiians, poi, fish, etc. A Chinaman who had
a large " store " a few miles from Kilauea, wherein
he did a large trade in the dearly loved forbidden
fruit of the native, viz., whiskey and gin, married
an extremely pretty half-white girl who was known
as " Carry," and Mary came one day to tell me of
the festivities which were to celebrate the wedding.

The young lady was to be married at her future

irr

SCENES IN HAWAII.

home, and the bridegroom was to give a right
royal feast, for which the most extensive prepara-
tions were being made ; a pavilion, or lanai as it is
called, was erected for the cereinony, and vast
quantities of roast pig, fish, cooked and uncooked,
sweet potatoes, poi, all the delicacies known were
to be displayed. Mary's father was to officiate in
the Hawaiian language, as Chinese nearly all speak
that tongue as well as their own lingo.

" And what will Carry wear, Mary ? " ■' Oh, a
beautiful white satin holoku trimmed with white
lace, and a long train, all tied back like the Alii's
(white chief's) dress."

" Dear me," I said, knowing the high prices
asked for the simplest dress, "and how much will
she pay for it ? " " Eighty dollars, ma'am," said
Mary, " and Carry has got a black silk holoku
and a red one." " Why, a regular trousseau," I
said. " Has Carry got a lot of money } " " No,
ma'am," said Mary, grinning to shew all her big
white teeth ; " Ah Sam (the Chinaman) /le give it
all." " What, before he marries," I cried. " Yes,
ma'am," said Mary, chuckling greatly at my aston-
ishment, " and xA.h Sam /le give all the luau too, and
he have Carry's father and mother to live with him,

SCENES IN HAWAII.

too." An accommodatinL;- husband, I thouj^ht ; for
I had seen Carry's mamma, who was a huge, fine-
looking native, not one who would be very likely
to do very much for herself or anyone else. Carry
was quite a ])icture, as we wDuld meet her riding in
a deep Mexican saddle, wearing a bright crimson
holoku, a straw hat wreathed with flovers, perched
on the top of a small, well shaped hea'' and a big
lei of leaves round her shoulders. She was a very
haughty looking damsel, and very rarely vouch-
safed a smile in return for our aloha. Ah Sam was
not an ideal bridegroom in his appearance, being
fat and greasy, wearing his hair cut in a fringe on
his forehead and a long queue. He sent me a
present of some chickens at the time of the wedding
(probably repaying himself from my poultry yard.)

Mary having failed us so lamentably, I was
obliged to revert to the services of Chinese, and
many odd experiences we had. Portuguese make
good servants when trained, but there are not
enough of them, and they were good labourers in
the field, so my trials of that nation were few.

A man called Manuel da Souza, and his wife
Jivita were bright examples of thrift, honesty and
cleanliness. I taught Souza easily so that he

I '

SCENES IN HAWAII.

V-

became a most excellent, faithful servitor to the
time of our dei)arture, filling up the gaps left by
the many Chinamen, (who would run away at a
moment's notice) with the utmost cheerfulness.
Victorina was a Portuguese of immense size and
strength, and would come and help me when-
ever asked, and has often sent messages through
Souza, (from whom we have heard more than once)
to the " Signora."

Again, a German woman, Dorotea, was a
capital servant, and she was very loth to leave us,
but her husband wa:3 determined to try his fortune
in New Zealand, so with many tears on Dorotea's
part she had to go with him.

•

After Ting and his family had departed, our
next experiment was " Charlie," — a raw hand out
of the fields, but he wished to go back to the field
work soon He spoke very broken English, and
when he had to go off to the baker on the planta-
tion, would always tell me he ** was going to get
bled ! " '

Ah See followed him, and was with us nearly a
year. A most excellent servant was Ah See, a
funny-looking little fellow, very quick and active

JL Ai-tAi

SCENES IN HAWAII.

and cooking the plain food attainable, in such a
way as to be reaUy deHcious at times.

He had a keen sense of the ridiculous, and I was
always in doubt as to whether the mistake he
made in his cooking one evening was done on pur-
pose, or as a bit of fun on his part to provoke us.

We were expecting two strangers to dine with
us, and as on these occasions, one has frequently to
depend on what Americans call " canned goods,"
I told Ah See to open a tin of curried fowl and
serve it with the rice, which only a Chinaman can
cook properly. These curries were always in tins
covered with green paper, and Ah See knew their
appearance perfectly. In the storeroom on another
shelf I had put away some half dozen of " cherry
tooth paste" which compound was much affected
by one of the members of our household. These
were white china pots, as unlike the tins of curry as
could well be imagined.

Our friends arrived, and the inevitable beef hav-
ing been removed, I was thinking the curry would
be an agreeable change, and was pleased at the
appearance it presented, when Ah See brought the
dish in, with the limes and chutney all de rigueury
and put it down with a grand flourish, and then

SCENES IN UAWAII.

)' li;

stood beside his master's chair, vvitli liis usual
demure look of attention. 1 was talking; at the
time the plate was put before me, and at first did
not notice anything peculiar, but on tasting, oh,
horrors ! the first mouthful, it was evident some-
thing was wrong. I turned the rr.ass over, and
looked at it again and suddenly found what ?
" Cherry tooth paste ! " I said with a gasp, " Ah
See, what did you take the curry out of?" He
made a kind of jump to the door, which opened on
the verandah, rushed into the kitchen, and brought
back the empty china pot !

"Yea Missee, yes Missee, you see cully all the
same " — his face distorted by the true Chinese grin,
quite charmed at his own handiwork.

We felt sure Ah See meant the whole thing as a
delightful practical joke, though he would not allow
it, but the expression of his face I shall never for-
get. There was nothing to do, of course, but to
scold and laugh — our friends joining in heartily.

New Year is the great Chinese festival. It
begins with the first moon in January, and every
one who employs Chinese is obliged to give in to
the universal custom, and allow their servants to
go off for three days at least.

8CKNK8 IN HAWAII.

G.J

One clay, the first of the festival, Ah See made
his appearance dressed in the most ultra fashion-
able way. Someone had ^iven him a white linen
waistcoat which he had carefully buttoned over the
white full coat usually worn by Chinamen ; on top
of this he had a wadded [garment of blue silk with
large sleeves ; white trousers much too long for
him, were turned up in several folds above his
ankles, displaying the heavy shoes of embroidered
felt ; his head well shaved, and his queue wrapped
neatly round it. But to crown the toilet he had
got somewhere a very high stiff collar which he
was endeavouring to fasten on a refractory button ;
having at last succeeded, he displayed himself
with pride, shewing also a large silver locket which
dangled at a long chain, at his waistcoat, and
strutting round like a small bantam, he assured
me he was, " AUee same as Melican man ! " and
went off beaming with complacency. One day he
brought me a small lacquer v\ork-box containing
some eggs which had a very queer look, almost blue
white, and on taking one up I found it quite
solid. Ah See said they were " Salt eggs," and
" welly good." I gave them back, and that even-
ing the whole house was pervaded with a most
awful odour, horrible ! Ah See had been eating

«i

SCENES IN HAWAII.

these salt cg^s, which were nothin<j^ more or less
than putrid ! The rest of the offensive articles
were confiscated and thrown into the river at
once, amidst wailings and tears from the little
wretch.

We found that Ah See was gradually be-
coming an opium smoker, and one night finding
him trucked up in bed smoking inside his mos-
quito curtains his master took possession of the
long wooden pipe and tin of opium ; he entreated
to have the pipe returned, saying, " He was welly
much flight one Chinaman killee him if he no
give pipe back," and finally, tinding his lamenta-
tions of no effect, he brought me three silver
dollars and begged me to take them, buy some
cigars for the master as a bribe, and, " Then,
Missee, you give him cigars, he give me back

pipe

I "

At last, however, Ah See became such a victim
to the opium, that we were obliged to have him
sent to prison, but, on his trial by the native
judge, was acquitted, as he bribed both Judge
and lawyer alike, though the pipe was produced
in Qourt as it had been found in his possession.

Opium is the great curse of the Chinese — they

SO'KNKH IN HAWAII.

lose their health, arc iiiiahic to attend to their
work or h'.isincss, but still the dru^^ has such a
fascination for them that they cannot <^\vc it up.
I have seen them with their faces the colour and
appearance of [)archinent, their eyes heavy and
dull, their hands tremblini^, and yet the perni-
cious habit is so strong that they are unable to
avoid it.

The o[)iuin in the smokini,^ state is like a thick
black paste, with a heavy, sickly smell. This is
lighted in a huge wooden pi[)e with a long stem
and deep bowl.; a few whiffs are enough to pro-
duce the stupor neccessary to the smoker's enjoy-
ment.

Ah See, was, apparently, something of a fire-wor-
shipper, as one morning, when a Chinese feast was
in progress on the plantation, we heard a tremen-
dous cracking and fizzing, and on going out to
enquire into the cause of the noise we found he
had lighted two bundles of fire-crackers, which
were going off in every direction, and Ah See, with
his hands up to his forehead, was bowing and grim-
macing to the crackers, as though they were so
many spirits, and muttering what I supposed were

charms against evil.

5 ■ '

W "^r

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i' I

SCENES IN HAWAII.

One servant we had, Hing Hoy by name, used
to employ all his leisuie moiiicnts t\van<^ini;- on a
musical instrument with absolutely no tune what-
ever in it, but that appeared to make no difference
to his enjoyment.

The last one was Sin Fat, a most excellent,
clever servant, but a i^re t thief, and with no regard
whatever for the truth. He ran away one night,
having bundled up all his beloiigings while we were
at dinner, and, throwing them out of the window,
lie walked off and no policeman or sheriff, white
man or native, could be induced to take the trouble
to arrest him, though we knew ' v^as on the plan-
tation ; so we came to the conclusion, unwillingly,
that his bribes had been especially tempting.

With Chinese servants one has to conform to
the custom of letting them have at least two or
tliree hours to themselves every day, and '\ese
recreations are frequently employed in gambling.

Chinamen are inveterate gamblers, and coming
through the quarters on a pay day the clink of
silver dollars can be heard all over, with the inces-
sant cackle of the voices, as Chinamen always talk
together ; they will gamble anything, jthes,
trinkets, wages — anything they can get hold of.

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

They are also great thieves, anything in the
shape of gold or : ilver is quite irresistible to them.

Sin Fat was left in charge once during our
absence of so ': weeks, and everything was found
in perfect order on our return ; but a day or two
afterwards a lamp, clock, and mincing machine
disappeared out of the kitchen ; Sin Fat declaring
that '• Some man, he come at night, and stealee
him," and always thereafter, made a great show of
locking the kitchen door, which was a precaution
hitherto deemed quite unnecessary. We always
put Sin Fat himself down as the thief, as he
imagined himself free from suspicion ; but, I fear
it was a case literally, of locking the stable after
the horse had gone.

A friend of ours had a Chinaman called Tam,
whom he thought all the world of, but he was sent
away for opium smoking, and coming back one
day when he knew the family were at dinner, he
broke open a desk and stole a number of bank
notes. Tam was arrested and searched, but nothinir
found, till his master noticing a look of anxiety in
his face when they took up an under garment to
shake again, said, "rip it open," which was accord-
ingly done, and the money found neatly sewn into

' ii;

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

It'

the folds of the waistcoat, so Tarn was sentenced to
two years' imprisonment.

They have a curious custom wlicn leaving a place,
to write in their queer hieroglyphics on a door, or
perhaps the wall, any hints with regard to the
habits of the family, they think may be of use to
their successors ; and it is as well to look well
about before engaging a new servant, for these
treacherous scribblings.

During the New Year they have processions to
honour their saints, and on the plantation their
joss houses are trinimec up with long lines of small
flags of every hue hung on top of the roofs ; the
smell of pork cooking is savoury on the air, and the
shop keepers have open houses for the three days.
Those with whom you deal invariably bring offer-
ings of the best they have ; thus, the Chinaman
who had the plantation " store," Kong Lung by
name, sent us always a ham, a big box of licJies
(a kind of soft nut very sweet and nice), a bottle
of vile brandy, jars of ginger, sometimes a caddy
of tea, .silk handkerchiefs and quantities of dried
fruits.

They also grow plants of narcissus so as to have
them in bloom at that time, and the china pots and

R(!KNi:S IN HAWAIF.

dishes full of the }'ello\v and white flowers, look
very sweet and fresh.

Cards arc exchanged then, too, bein^ in the
form of extraordinary black signs on slips of pink
paper, which are sometimes pasted on the doors
as well.

Huge coloured hintei'ns, several feet in circum •
ference, haag in their verandahs, and all day, and
sometimes all night, will be heard the twang of
their favourite musical instrument, a cross between
a banjo and a guitar, which has literally no music
in it, but which seems to furnish an unending source
of amusement.

Woe to the unlucky ones who have the pleasure
of owning a poultry yard, as for weeks before the
New Year they are infested with human foxes in
the shape of Chinamen, who do their best to
denude the roosts, to furnish their tables with good
cheer for their festival.

Japanese have made their way well in Hawaii
lately, and are extremely liked as domestic ser-
vants. The women look very grotesque walking
on their high clogs ; dressed in queer, bunched up,

Ir^

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SCKXKS IN HAWAII.

■ ill

nirrow ^^ariiicnts, wrapped ti^litly round them,
and most awkward for moving about in ; but they
are very clean, very clever, and most courteous in
their manner, always dofflnj^ their caps when they
meet a stranger, with a benming smile. Their
living rooms always contain a large platform about
eight inches in height, and on these they sleep, eat,
and sit. Enormous pots of hot water are always
seen near their houses, for their daily ablutions,
which they do not mind in the least, performing in
public.

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

CKAPTER VI.

Rules and drives about Kilauea. — Kalikiwai Valley. —Valley of
Hanalei. — After glow of Sunset, — vSwarni of Red Tish.
Death of the last of the Kar.imehaniahas Qiieen Emina.

C'OME of the rides and drives about our planta-
tion liome on tlie Island of Kauai (Kow-vvhy),
which was about one hundred miles by sea from
Honolulu, were beautiful in the extreme, so diverse
in their beauty that we never got tired of them, but
always found fresh loveliness to look on and to
remember. Two especially were always attractive
for ourselves and visitors, and many a delightful
day we had taking our friends to the valleys of
Kalihiwai (Kaleehee-why)and Hanalei (I lannalay).

In the first named valley lived our Chinese
friend, Ah vSam, who had married the half-white
Carry, and who proved such an extremely generous
husband. His house was cpiite down in the valley,
through wliich ran a river, meandering c^uietly to
the sea ; it was deep at its mouth, but at certain
times was fordable just before it curved down to
the ocean. Ah Sam's house was close to the river,

-'■^^^"--'-^-

SCENES IN HAWAII.

I ''

r Ti

l'\

and on the op])ositc bank another Celestial had
taken up his abode (both kept illicit 1^1*014' shops),
also with the intention of scUini;" spirits, and it was
said that signals could be gi\cn and returned if by
any chance the sheriff and Ids officers were seen
comini; one way or the other ; and thus prevent
trouble, as, of course, neither of these charming"
hiw-breakers had a licen^-e to sell anything likc^
whiskey or gin, in which kuter beverage trul}' the
soul of the native deliL^hteth.

The road down which we wended our way, per-
haps on horseback, perhaps in a pony phaeton
draw^n by a stout little mule, most sure-footed of
animals, was very steep, cut out of the side of a
high hill, a baid< of rcjck covered with ferns and
moss, and streams babbling down like miniature
falls,; on one hand, and on the other, the sea rolling
into a curved sandy beach, which formed the mouth
of the valley. At tne foot of the road was a stretch
of green turf, of a thick, soft, reed-like grass, called
Mainanea, which grew most luxuriantly near the
sea, and was capital pasture for horses and cattle,
extending a short distance with a few native houses
scattered about, each almost buried in creepers and
mango groves. Having passed these, the ford was

i i

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SCKNES IN HAWAII.

reached, and a dilapidated old ferry was supposed
to be in readiness for passenj^ers, thouL^h I can safely
say, 1 Jievcr knew it to be on the side one wished.
At times the river was easy enoii^l\ to cross on
horseback, but at others the current was very stiff
to encounter, and the water deep. I have often
watched natives ur<i^e their horses in, and have seen
them sink deeper and deeper, till at leni^th the horse
would be swimmini^, with the man or woman rest-
in^^ their feet on the horse's neck, finally getting
them as high as the animal's ears, sitting perfectly
at ease, and probably urging the poor creature into
a canter iniL.ediately on landing.

When , ' aiovc to the ferry, the natives were
intensely interested in helping to unharness the
mule, and roll the carriage by means of two boards
laid for the wheels, from the edge of the shore to
the ferry, laughing and chatting at the top of their
voices, probably accompanying us to the opposite
bank, where the performance was repeated. Our
little Canadian-built phaeton, four-wheeled and
without a covered top, was always a source of
curiosity to tlie natives, and great was their astonish-
ment, as was that of our white friends, when we
afterwards made the tour of Kauai in it, up hill,
down almost precipices, along the rocky sea-shore.

'•ti

. i

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inriiiiiTiiiimii'm it"1

SCENES IN HAWAII.

t|:|

1:1

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120 tnilcs in all — a most (IcHi^htful experience
Kalihiwai, bathed iii sunsliine, was a lovely picture,
the mountains throwinc.^ their shadows of |)urple
and blue down the valley, and brin<^ing out the
delicate tints of the rice patches i^rown by the China-
men, and fmally endini^^ in a i^litterin^r water-fall,
like a stream of silver, whic'^ :ame rushin^i^' down
the rocks at the extreme head of the valley, makitig
a vista for the eye to rest upon never to be for<^ot-
ten, the wonderful tints of <^reen in the thick foliage
contrasting^ with a creeper of surpassing beauty,
which bore an enormous white bell-like flower, the
sweet heavy scent of which filled the air for some
distance

Mounting a steep hill, which rose abruptly out of
the valley, a little way from the river (always a very
hot part of the expedition), one can see the lovely
little valley at ore's feet, with the sea beyond, glow-
iiif^ in the sun ; and when at the top of the hill, the
salt breeze comes cool and refreshing. The road
was very good, and one could canter, or trot on
quickly, with the sea on one hand, and the glorious
mountains on the other, across level plains, with
herds of cattle grazing quietly, only lifting their
heads and stari.ng, apparently, in astonishment at

-^^F

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

the strangc-lookiiif^ vehicle passini^. In one i)lace
the road made a dip into a hollow, ^oin^ over a
river, which rushed down there into a quiet, deep
pool, frini^ed with ferns and ohia trees, and after-
wards foinid its way into Kalihiwai. Soon, the
plains bei^an to show signs of life, with a glimpse
of sugar-cane fields, and presently we were on the
edge of the Valley of Hanalei. The natives have
a saying, to ex[)ress the beauty of the far-famed
valley, "See Ilanalei, and die;" and one cannot
wonder at their admiration of such a lovely spot.
VVe left the road, and walked a few steps beyond,
where there is a rough sign board nailed on an old
tree stump, and painted in rude letters, *' Crow's
Nest," attached to which there is a melancholy
interest from the fact that Lady Franklin used to
spend hours sitting there, looking with, doubtless,
sad and wistful eyes for the arrival of the then
numerous whaling ships which she hoped might
bring tidings from the far North of her gallant and
ill-fated husband. Lady Franklin wished much to
have a native Anglican Church built on this very
plateau, and, I believe, bought the ground and gave
it for that purpose, but the church was never built ;
still the interest of the story remains, and it must
always be a true one.

SCENES IN HAWAII.

A small plateau ran out a little further, and from
there we gazed on the picture before us. A very
large valley la)' at our feet, with a broad river wind-
ing through it down to the sea. On the left, or
Mauka side, the grand mountains, lifting their
heights up till lost in the clouds of mist which rest-
ed like snow-wreaths on their deep shadows ; the
rice plantations, with tender green, below us, min-
gled with the purple tassels of the sugar-cane ; the
picturesque white and green houses, with broad
verandahs and roofs all in one ; the barges drifting
slowly down the river, laden with the cane to get
ready for the mill, which stood almost in the centre
of the valley ; the brilliant sunshine, bathing the
masses of foliage on either side of the river in light ;
the planter's homestead, half-way down the hill,
almost buried in flowers and shrubs of every hue ;
and the broad Pacific beyond all, — made up the most
wonderfully beautiful view imaginable, scarcely
perhaps to be excelled, Unlike Kalihiwai, which
is seen first from its mouth, Hanalei is approached
from the head, making the effect perhaps more
intense by one's being able to see it more suddenly.

On a bright day, when ..e mists had lifted,
countless streams could be seen, like silver threads,
on the purple sides of the mountains, which added

|ii

SCENES IN HAWAII.

mucli to the beauty of the view. After gazing for
a long time at the picture before us, \vc drove for
a short (Ustance on the level, and then were able to
descend to the river by a broad road, where we
could drive for a long distance, and crossing a hand-
some bridge, could see the fine cane, which in all
stages of its growth is a singularly beautiful crop.
Down in the damp warmth o( the valley it was
most luxuriant, as the high trade winds which at
times laid the fields of cane on the plains low in
the red dust, which forms such a feature in Kauai
landscape, were unable to reach the deep shelter of
the valley.

A great deal of rice also was grown by China-
men in the valley, and when the grain was almost
ready to gather in, it was of a deep golden colour,
and the noise made by the owners to drive the
little rice-birds away from their favourite food was
deafening. Tin cans tied to a revolving pole, bang-
ing unceasingly in the breeze, was considered a
valuable mode of warfare ; added to this, guns
were fired incessantly, and loud cries uttered by the
watchful Chinamen, who began their work at dawn
and carried it on without intermission till the sun
went down, when for a few short hours they were

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SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

able to sleep without fear cS the rapacious little
destroyer uncloinL;- their labour of months.

A sunset at Manalei was wonderfully beautiful,
as it sank gradual!)' into the depths of the ocean,
the valley's mouth beini^ <.\uc west ; and at the time
of the Ja\a eruption the after-j^dow extended for
miles over the country. The first time we saw it
we were six miles awa}' from Manalei, and could
see only the ridge of mountains which hid it from
our view. We thought the deep red glare must
mean that there was some terrible conflagration on
the plantaticjn, and were immensely relieved to find
that that terror of the planter, fire, was not the
cause; but our friends told us that as they watched
the crimson glow flooding the sea and mountains
with colour, they were equally sure that Honolulu
itself must be entirely in flames. It lasted for days,
almost weeks, and the natives were terror-stricken,
believing that some terrible judgment must be
coming on them ; but as days went on, and no harm
did approach, they, with characteristic indifference,
forgot all about the freak of nature.

The native superstition is very great, as no doubt
all aboriginal superstition must be; but there is
one thing which— one must say so from personal

lift

SCENES IN HAWAII.

experience on our own part — is most extraordinary,
and I can imagine that some of my readers will
scarcely credit what I have to tell. As' the death
of a high chief approaches, a swarm of tiny red
fish invariably come about the harbour of Honolulu
or his birthplace. At no other time do they appear.
During our stay in the islands the three last great
chiefs of the line of Kamehameha died, and each
time, just before their death, did the swarm of fish
come, reddening the waters till they looked like
blood. The first to die was I'rincess Ruth (Keeliko-
lani), a woman of enormous stature, and extraordin-
ary plainness of appearance. She had been ill for
some time, and had been under the influence of her
native Kahunas, or praying doctors, to such an extent
that she had made a journey to the foot of Mauna
Loa,on Hawaii intending to be carried up the mount-
ain to sacrifice white chickens and pigs to the burn-
ing lake, thereby hoping to appease the wrath of
the Goddess Pele, who is supposed even yet to be
the presiding Deity of the Volcano. On arriving
at the mountain, however, it was found that Her
Royal Highness' enormous bulk quite precluded
the hope of getting up herself, so she was obliged
to have the sacrifice made by proxy, sending some
of her numerous retinue to perform the rites; but

im . >-

SCENES IN HAWAII.

I '■ l!

of no avail, as some time later she died. Mrs. Pan-
hahi Bishop was the ne.xt to follow : she was a half-
white, but 'on her mother's side was a direct descend-
ant of Kamehameha I. She was a very handsome
woman, and of ^reat wealth, holding large properties
in the islands. She had married a Mr. Bishop, an
Englishman and a banker. Their home in Mono-
lulu was a very beautiful one, with lovely gardens,
and the house itself a perfect museum of Hawaiian
curiosities. Mrs. Bishop's death was almost unex-
pected, but the deadly swarm of red fish came into
the harbour, again the herald of disaster.

The last death was indeed a grievous calamity,
for with Queen Emma expired the last of her race ;
she was the last lineal descendent of Kamehameha
I., her own son dying at an early age. Queen Ennna
was adored by the natives, and she might well be,
tor she made herself almost poor by her constant
charities among them ; and she supported many of
them entirely herself. She also had a lovely house
and grounds in Honolulu, but spent most of her time
at a country home down by Pearl River, some miles
east of the town. The queen was a sweet-faced
woman, with a low musical voice, and great dignity
of manner. She died very suddenly, indeed with-

SCENKS IS HAWAII.

out warnini; almost, and this time the red fish made
their appearance at Kona on Hawaii, where much
of Queen Lemma's early youth was spent; the
natives there beini,^ terribly frii^thened, not know-
ing; what had befallen, until the mail from Hono-
lulu broML^ht the sad news. Her funeral was, of
course, accompanied b}- all the rite and customs of
Hawaiian royality. Natives came in from all the
islands to attend it, and the wailinL,^s were heard
without intermission from the boats as they ap-
proached Honolulu. Her body was taken at ni^ht
(after beiuL^ embalmed) to the old native church
— and lay in state for a weel^, with the fea-
ther Kahilis wavinij^ continually, the bearers cha-
nL^ini; every two hours — six walkin<^ up the aisle
in step, and changini; the Kahilis, so that there
was no intermission even for a moment, and the
native melees, or chants of praise, were sun<r by
the different choirs and musical societies ; the scent
of the leis and wreaths of flowers was overpowering.
The procession was enormous, and took two hours
to pass a given point — nearly all the natives on
foot — and so passed to the tomb of her fathers a
gentle Christian woman and a good queen.

^■kiid

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

CHAPTER VII.

Volcano of Maunn I.oa. — Visit to Crater and lUirniiii; Lake. —
Superstition of Natives. — Like-like (ties. Superstitions about
Deaths.— Lonii-lonii.- Aw a Root. — Intoxicating leverages. —
Old Native. — Nratives Riding. — Breaking Horses. — Leprosy. —
Molokai, — Fatlier I)aniien.~01d Lepei at Kilauea.

A MONGST the many places to be visited on
* *■ the Hawaiian Islands, the volcano of Mauna
Loa, and the lake of fii-e at Kilauea on Hawaii
are, perhaps, the most interesting^ to those who do
not mind a rough voyage between the islands, and
an equally rough journey by land. The inter-
island steamers vary much in their degrees of
comfort, but perhaps the largest and best are those
which convey tlie tourist to the port of Hilo, from
where one must lake horse for a long, steady ride
up hill to the Volcano house, as the stopi)ing place
for visitors to the far-famed volcano is called.

Hilo is the port next in importance to Honolulu,
and there travellers make arrangements for the
ride up the great Crater of Kilauea.

A mule purchased in Honolulu for $150 turned
out a valuable animal ; for, besides being stronger

SCENES IN HAWAII.

and more sure-footed than a horse, he was sold for
$25 advance in price at the end of the expedition,
having carried his rider well and thus having cost
nothing.

The ride is a long one — thirty miles — and very
lonely and quiet, the road lying partly through
forests of ohia and ku-kui trees principally, nearly
all covered with a species of creeper, which, as it
grows, throws out branches which have tops like
palm trees, only with smaller leaves. The tree ferns
in this forest were very high, quite twenty feet or
more, most luxuriant in growth, some green, some
brown, others a deep red, and with those half dead or
quite decayed, gave colouring to the mass of jungle.

During the twenty miles one was supposed to get
some refreshment at two " half-way " houses, but
the houses were apparently deserted and nothing
to be seen but a pail of water and a tin cup hang-
ing beside; a veritable drinking fountain, of which
both mule and rider were glad to take advantage.
The Volcano House was reached in due time, a
comfortable enough hotel, not far from the crater,
which is obliging enough to provide travellers with
excellent sulphur baths, which Soon remove all
stiffness incurred from the long ride. The dinner
consisted of shoulder of wild goat, excellent pota-

SCKNES IN irAWAII.

toes and Indian corn. Wild i^oats arc plentiful
and *;ood ^^'lmc ; tiic meat when younij is tender
and very [)alatable to the hunj^ry visitor.

I'roni the verandah of the hotel the red i;lare of
the crater was seen very distinctl)- through the deep
tropical darkness, and though undoubtedly the best
time for seein*^ the lake of fire, the <^aiide refused to
take us at ni^ht, so a f^ood rest after the fatigues of
travel liuL^ was most acceptable.

The next morning, after breakfast, the guide
accompanying us, wc started for the crater, walking
at first through a jungle of small ohia trees, then
in full blossom, bright crimson in colour, mingled
with a shrub called by the natives turkey wings,
bearing red berries, which the guide declared good
to eat ; they were much the same in appearance as
small cherries.

The jungle sloped down, and at the foot of the
bank we came on the bed of cooled lava, and
walked over it to within a liundred yards of the
burning lake of lava, called by the natives Ifa-
lemau-mau, a truly grand sight. About fifty
feet off was a hill, or crest of lava, on whicli the
guide would not let us go, as he said it probably
would give way at any moment, for the lava on
which we were then standing was quite hot.

'I'

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

Vor more than two miles we had walked on
lava, merely a thin erust over the fires, ami liable
at any moment to burst out with fresh force.
About a hundred and fift)- )'ards from where we
stood the ^uide shewed us a (lark-lo(jkin<w( h.ole from
which a fortnight before, an immense c[uantity of
lava had issued, and only six months before, the
lava had flowed up to the very edije of the bank
which we had come down.

The lake itself, about four hundred feet by one
hundred, was of an iron i;ray colour and here
and there we could see the red hot lava flowin<^
aloni; the surface ; then a wave would cross, the
sun shining so brij^-luly on it, one mij^^ht fancy it a
wave of the sea, topped by a red crest instead of a
" white horse." The ed<,^e of the lake was all fire,
and on the side nearest to us, at short intervals, the
red lava would be thrown up twenty to thirty feet.
Often it is thrown as hi^di as one lumdred feet, we
were told. For a few secontls all would be appa-
rently (juiet, and then a rollincj^ wave would cross
and bu'st into a myriad of leaping fires, shewing
a constaii't terrible force at work below the earth's
surface. 'I'he lake and its surroundinijs are con-
stantly chan^nng— immediately below us, and on

.'.'■'

SCENES IN HAWAII.

our ri^i^ht, the Iftva was quite still, and only three
days ago it was a heaving mass, flowing and molten.
The guide then volunteered to take us to where
he said (Duly three visitors had gone ; so off we set,
and soon stood on the western side within eight
feet of the very edge of the lake itself, so close that
the lava broke off, so brittle and hot was it, with a
slight blow of the pole we e : :h carried. Watch-
ing the gray, sullen mass before us, broken every
few seconds by the leaping flames, thrown in some
instances far above us, one could only feel in the
presence of some terrible invisible power working
quite independently of human agencies. Only a
short time could we stand so close to this " fire
fountain," as Miss Gordon Gumming calls it, as the
fumes of the sulphur threatened to suffocate us.
As it was, we were not free from headache in con-
sequence of our venture.

The bed of lava in the crater is quite four miles
in extent, probably more, and specimens very
beautiful in shape and colour can be picked up in
many directions — and some curious material, like
spun glass, brittle and shining, very fine in sub-
stance. It is known as " Pele's Hair," Pele being
the presiding goddess of the volcano, and to this

•

V i:

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

' J

day the natives sacrifice to her by throwini^ silver,
or white pis^s or liens into the fires, thinking to pro-
pitiate her, and jterhaps avert the calamity of an
overflow of lava, which superstition has a curious
resemblance to the offe-iiiL,^ made by the Scottish
peasants to their holy wells of olden fame, into
which arc thrown jicnnies and sixpences ; formerly
the killing of a red cock was considered a necessary
rite to appease the wrath of the earth spirits.

When any unusual eruption of the volcano takes
place the natives are terror-stricken, believing that
some fresh sacrifice is demanded of the people to ap-
pease Pcle's wrath, and in the days of the autocra-
tic t;overnment by the great chiefs human lives were
offered for that purpose, and such is the supersti-
tion of the Hawaiian of to-day tiiat a few months
ago the sister of the present monarch. Princess
Like- Like, who had been ill for some time, but who
was recovering, hearing of the sudden stoppage of
the fires of the crater, which then threatened to
burst forth in a terrible overflow of lava, hurling
destruction on all villages between it and the sea,
and believing that by giving her life she could pre-
vent such a calamity, literally turned her face to
the wall and died from sheer inanition, refusing all

HC'KNKS IN HAWAII.

noiirislimctit for three days, niul disregarding; all
appeals from her ph}-sician ; probahl)' her own
native Kahunas had induced her to believe that her
life was a necessary sacrifice. What has C'hristi-
anit}' done for these pcjor people when such things
can be? T c missionaries and church pe()])le have
worked hard, but apparentl)' to little effect, when
one of their highest chiefs can think of nothincj
better than to yield to one of their oldest super-

stitions.

inamau-mau sil> nines

(;Use o

f K

\er-

lastintr l^urnin"-.

ii.

The native sujxrstition is somethinL; extraordin-
ary to this day. If any member of a family dies
in the house, it is soon deserted, as they believe
that the spirit of the departed, no doubt in company
with "kindred spirits" will take ])ossessi(")n of the
hut, irakin"" it uncomfortable for those left behind

is wor

Id of

woe.

My friend ]\Iary astonished me very much one

^ly.

th th

e accoun

t sh

e gave me o

f a 1

uau. or

feast which had been held at the house of a neigh-
bour; it appeared that an old man, a grandfather
of the flock, fell ill, and, as apparently he could not
be cured, the Kahuna ordered a luau to be arranged
in a piece of ground close by. This was done, a

SCKNKS IN HAWAir.

l.'inai bcin^ hastily constructed of yoi .i<r saplin^^s
tied to<:rctlicr, bananna leaves thrown across for a
roof, and the inevitable piL( bein<,^ baked in a hole
in the j^roiuul, poi and fish produced, the poor old
native, in a dyint^ condition, was placed on his mat
in the middle of the feast, so that one fears that his
end was not peace. Li/ards, of which there are
many varieties in the islands, are held in threat fear
by the superstitious Hawaiian, and the ai)pearance
of one in a home is regarded as an omen of evil.
A strani:^e coincidence of ancient Hawaiian customs
with modern medical treatment is that of lomi-lomi
as compared with the massai^c of the present day.

The hii,di chiefs always had some natives in their
retinue whose duty it was to perform this lomi-lomi
when rcciuiretl. After a lon^' ride, or fatii^ue of an
undue kind, such as the expedition to the volcano,
it is said to be most refreshing; in its effect. The
compressing; of the muscles, rubbing of the skin,
pulUnc; of joints, all V^eiuL; almost precisely the same
as massai^e. Also, after a feast which nn'i^ht be
continued for some days, the lomi-lomi was called
in to help to disperse the effects of tlissipation.
Medical men frequently ordei the lomi-lomi for
cases of acute rehumatism with excellent results,

■M

SCENES IN HAWAII.

and I have seen a sufferer from sick headache having
her head lomi-lomied, hoping to get relief from the
distressing pain.

When the chiefs went on one of their frequent
inter-island expeditions, they had native girls whose
duty it was to prepare the drink made from the awa
root; the root is chewed into a slimy pulp (a most
revolting idea) by these female retainers, then put
into bowls, and left to ferment. It is very intoxi-
cating, but it is still used in large quantities ; and
commands a high price. A kind of whiskey is
made in Hawaii from the ti root, and also a liquor
from the sweet potatoe. A native will however get
tipsy on anything almost. A native boy we had
for a long time, had a great orgie on eau de cologne
once. Perry Davis's pain killer is a favourite
stimulant, and even Worcester sauce if they can
get enough of it.

The old r.atives had excellent manners, which
have sadly degenerated in those of the present day.
A very old man called Pihi (fish) used to give us a
bow worthy of a courtier, sweeping his hands towards
us with a most eloquent gesture expressive of greet-
ing in answer to our aloha. Me was one of the very
few \ 'ho did not ride, we would meet him trudging
along, up and down the many gulches which were

SCENES IN HAWAII.

SO frequent between the plantation church and his
home, generally carryin^^ a huge blue umbrella, his
white hair shewing out against his copper hued
face, and bearing the weight of years with remark-
able i^igour ; while it is said of the Hawaiian of
the present time that he will walk for half an hour
to catch his horse to ride twenty minutes. They
are capital riders, being inured to the saddle from
baby-hood, literally, as babies are frequently carried
on pillows in front of their mothers.

The women ride astride, with the stirrup held
between the toes, and as a rule have firm easy seats,
and attired on gala days present a fine appearance
with long flowing garments, flying back from their
knees along the horse's flanks, of some brilliant
colour, this latter addition being called a pua, form-
erly nearly always worn by a Hawaiian equestrienne,
but now only affected on great occasions. A crowd
of Hawaiians on horseback coming back from any
holiday rejoicing is a thing to be avoided, for they
ride at a reckless pace, and scatter themselves in all
directions.

Nearly all use the deep Mexican saddle, with
the enormous wooden and leather stirrups and
their bridles are often works of art. The natives
admire good riding immensely, and my husbnnd

ymt

. *■

! -

U:l

i '5

n
f If

SCENES IN HAWAII.

was presented once with a Icatlier bridle made of
round twisted liidc, ornamented at intervals with
tufts of horse-hair, a very smart affair, made by a
native friend, and i^iven by him with a word of
approbation as to some feat of horsemanship which
had probably attracted his notice. They value
these bridles rather hiL,dily themselves, anil we heard
that a substantial offer had been made for the
possession of this special one to the maker, so when
it was given, we were delighted to have such a
trophy to bring away.

Hawaiian horses rarely are allowed to tru they
have a kind of rocking canter, which they will keep
up for nn'les at a stretch. Some would make
capital jumpers if they were encouraged, but un-
fortunately their spirit is broken before they are in
fit condition to ride. A native's idea of breaking
in a horse is to tie a handkerchief over the animal's
eyes, ha\'e himself tied on to the bare back, and
then tear up and down the road as hard as Tarn
O'Shanter of bye-gone fame, till the poor creature,
trembling from fear and exhaustion, bathed in sweat,
and rejoicing to get rid of his most unwelcome
burden, is ready to acknowledge in his dumb fashion
that man is indeed his master.

^^ m

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

;

The native, pure and simple is really tlyin*^ out,
and the chief eause is that dread disease of leprosy
which, without doubt has exterminated whole
generations of Hawaiian families. It is very loath-
some and repulsive to onlookers, but to white peo-
ple, the incomprehensible thing is, the indifference
of the native to the most ordinary precautions
agamst infection. For instance, not far from our
home, close to a fordable river, there was a large
grass hut, in which dwelt several members of a
family, one of which a young lad, was afflicted with
this fatal sickness ; no one saw him in passing, but
he was known to be there. He lay, probabl}^, on
the same mats with othei ^, shared the food, eat out
of the same calabash, smoked the same pipe, they
knowing all the time that some of the infected
poison might be conveyed to another of their
number. But if by chance the sheriff was known
to be in that district, with his attendant body of
policemen, probably on the look-out for lepers,
the boy was at once conveyed in secret to one of
the numerous hiding-places, in the recesses of the
hills and caverns, known only to themselves, and
the sheriff might look till he was tired, and find
nothing, though he w^as well aware, that as soon as
he was gone, the danger over for that time, the

SCENES IN HAWAII.

■ I

sufferer would be broui^ht back to his old quarters,
and so the ball would ' on, gathering the deadli-
est of mosses on 'n.s way.

The island of Molokai is given up entirely to the
lepers, steamers freighted with these hapless beings
are frec[uently sent from Honolulu, the poor lepers
being gathered from all parts of the islands, and
great are the wailings, and loud and deep the
lamentations of the families, when parting at the
wharves.

The greatest kindness is shewn by the govern-
ment, and private families, headed by Royalty, to
the inhabitants of this great hospital island. They
have comforts and attention from all classes.

They have churches, schools, workshops, amongst
them, gardens to look after and cultivate for their
own benefit, and the utter indifference of the natives
to the future, makes the living death before them
less a subject of dread, than we might believe
possible. White people rarely get leprosy, but,
sad to say indeed, the devoted and Christ-like life
of Father Damien, a priest who has literally laid
down his life for others, has been covered with the
mantle of death in the midst of his most self-sacri-
ficing work. For years Father Damien has lived

SCENES IN HAWAII.

on Molokai, te<ichin<^, cxhortinf^, liclpin^ one and
all ; and now he has become a victim to the same
disease which he has watched in all its terrible
stages, and so, well knowing the awful future in
store for him, he asks for others of his church to
come and follow in his footsteps, a request which
we hear has been nobly responded to by some who
are willing to try and emulate his saint-like devotion
to these poor people.

The only definite case I had any contact with^
was that of an old woman at Kilauea. Our native
washerwomen, who for some months had come
regularly for their bundles, riding up from their
pretty little home by the river, carrying their work
in front of their saddle, failed one day to appear,
and instead of the portly form of the old lady, who
used to dismount with such surprising quickness,
followed by a grave, handsome daughter, Quevna
by name, I found a miserable wizened-up little
woman sitting on the steps of the verandah, who
made me understand that my laundress was "sick,"
and that being a friendly neighbour she had volun-
teered to come for the bundles instead. I had often
seen this old wahine, (woman) but knew nothing of
her particularly; so gave her the linen, and rather

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

I i

pitied her as she stafrj^cred off under her load. My
friend Mary Mahoi had cojnc to pay me a visit, and
had watched these proceedings with hizy interest,
putting, in a word now and tlien; but after the old
woman had departed, Mary said in the abrupt
fashion pecuhar to natives, "1 don't hke that old
woman." "Why not, Mary?" "Oh, her hands are
all white inside, you no sec her hands.''" "No," I
said, "What is the matter with thcm.^" Mary looked
rather taken aback at this, and then blurted out,
" Oh, her hands have all white skin inside, and her
feet too, and some stuff come out of them, and my
father, he give her medicine." "Mary!" i said,
now in <i genuine fright, "you mean the old woman
has leprosy?" Mary did not deny this assertion, but
calmly said the old woman would " scold," if she had
told me no' to let her have the clothes, and made
me promise not to tell, i consented to this if she
would go off to the fields and get someone to go
with h.jr to bring back the linen, which she did ; but
it was a true instance of the total indifference dis-
played by natives to the chance of bringing this
horrible disease near.

Science has apparently exhausted itself in the
direction of arresting or curing leprosy. Doctors
of all nations have tried their knowledge in vain.

SCENES IN HAWAII.

A pliysician came from Germany during our sojourn
in Hawaii, to report on all the cliffeicnt stages, and
a strange thing happened to him. During some
process of dissection, the poison entered some slight
scratch on his hand, which inust have heen insuffi-
ciently protected, and in a very short time the whole
arm swelled up and became discoloured. What
the result of this accident may be, it will probable
take years to tell, as one is told that frequently,
leprosy will take seven years to develope itself
Segregation is the only cure and that, all the natural
instincts of the Hawaiian native make him fiuht
but the result is that the extinction of the race is
a certain consequence.

The native language of the Hawaiians is distinct
from that of other inhabitants of the many Pacific
groups, it is composed almost entirely of vowels,
and when spoken by the educated is remarkably
soft and liquid. The chiefs of old days spoke in a
dialect which differed from that used by the lower
orders, and the white men who are much thrown
with natives and who understand the language
perfectly, say the difference is quite perceptible
still. A few words are very quickly picked up by
the new comer, and some seem easily applicable.

'• m' I

: i'

SCENES IN HAWAir,

Vov in.^tancc, instead of saying on the rit^ht, or left,
one always says, '* mauka," or " makai," mcanini^
towartls the sea, or mountain ; a road will run
mauka or makai ; a piece of furnituie will be on
the mauka or makai side of the room. Yes, is
" ai," pron(junced sharply like "aye," and often a
native will simply put out his or her tongue to
indicate " ai," without a word being spoken. The
heard " mahoppi " was a terror ! as it meant by-
and-bye, and that with a native was remarkably
like to-morrow, which never .comes '* Pilikia "
meant a trouble of any description, domestic or
otherwise, an overflow of lava caused a terrible
pilikea ; a Chinaman literally taking up his bed
and w alking off when friends were expected, was a
pilikiri \ ery likely to occur at any moment ; leaving
the unfortunate mistress in a great pilikia ! " Hoo-
hoo ' was, an expressive word indicating that he
or she w^as offended, and constantly used by
whites, b^liev^j the c)rJin\ry scholar in U r.v liiai
finds it difficult to understand the speech of each
island, but I am equally sure that " pilikia," and
" mahoppi " are universal.

ii»- rim II

;,'^

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

!)«!

CIIAPTKR VIII.

Invitation to Kmil; Knlakua's Coronation. -I )iivc to Ki-alia and
Kapaa. Tlic Parsonage. -I Ionic at l.iluic. -Honolulu ji^ain.
—Ship in harbour. I'lowcrs. rarriai;cs, — Coronation Day.
— Coronaticjn Cerciuonic-. Coronation liall. (^^>ULcn leaving
thu .I'alaiL'. -Coronation I'ircwork-^. 'Hookupu — (irand
laian. -'The Handy and Ids Dancers. --Races at Waikiki. —
I'nveiling of tlie Statue of tlie L,Mcal Kannnehanieha.

TOURING the month of January, 1883, wc recciv-
w ccl a card of invitation of enormous .size, with

a )3order of scarlet and i,^o1d, cni^raved in c^old

lettcr.s, and with the royal coat of arms emblazoned

at the top. It ran thus :

"The Kind's Chamberlain is commanded by His
Majesty Kinij; Kalakua to invite you to be present
at the Coronation ceremonies, to be held at the
lolani Palace, on February 12th, at f 1.30 o'clock.

C. H. JUDD, Colonel.

The direction accompanying this magnificent
card assigp.ed us seats in the " Pavilion." We had
heard a great deal of the fact that King Kalakua,
having reigned some twelve years, now thought it
necessary to have himself crowned formally in the

i^m

100

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

presence of liis lovin<^ subjects, briiiijiiv^ on himself
a great deal of abuse from those in opposition to
liis Government. 15ut His Majesty cahnly pursued
the even tenor of his way, l)aying no attention
whatever to the flood of ne\vs])aper articles which
delui^ed the country every week, heapin<^^ satire,
sneers, aiul unkind remarks of all sorts, diversified
now and then b)' dii^niified announcements of the
different ceremonies which were to take place dur-
ing the fortnight of festivities, and also by praise
from the Government oriran for his determination
to carry through his own wishes. Party politics
run high in Hawaii, and the contemptuous expres-
sions indulged in by the rival papers, the Pacific
Advertiser and the Haivaiiaii Gazette^ ahvays re-
minded us of the celebrated journals of Pickwick
fame. We determined to take advantage of a
lull in the plantation work just then, and accept our
invitation. And one beautiful morninij we set off.
A friend from San Francisco, who was on a visit to
the islands was a welcome addition to gur small
party, enjoying all our adventures with all kindness
and good humour. Our equipage consisted of a
large double rockaway, with leather sides, which
could be pulled down for shelter from any of the
fiercely sudden rain storms which assail one often

I <

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

101

ill the tropics, especially if the road runs near the
sea. The carriaj^c was drawn by two stout mules,
preferred to horses, as they are so sure-footed, and
our way ran uj) and down many a steep i^ulch.
Strapped to the b.ick of the carriai^e was a ba^
containiiiLi necessaries for a nii-ht, in case accidents
should happen to our con\'e\'ance, or perchance the
steamer be dela}'ed in startinj^, a very fortunate
provision, as we foui 1 later on. I'ollowin^ us was
a native boy on lujrseuack, u ith a lon^, .slout rope
tied on his sadtlle, to tlo what the nati\'es call
"hookey -up" the ver)' steep hills, a most necessary
adjunct to the part}'.

The air was fresh and cool when we started, and
the dew was lyini; heavily on the ^rass and leaves,
the mountains deej) in purple shadow and white
mist. We l(3okcd anxiously at the towering;' head
of the Prophet, our only " Weather probabilities "
but he did not say rain, so we drove across the
meadow-like compound, and turned into the loni;'
red road with easy minds.

The road itself was an excellent one, but a little
tiresome at first, for, in the short distance rf a mile
after we left our {^ate, we went up and down no less
than five i;ulches. All alon<^ our journey the

k . ]-■■
If ■ * ."

102

SCKNliS IN HAWAII.

!}■

I i

(

mountains toWLTcd on onr lij^hl liantl, and the
broad Pacific <^lo\vcd and sparkled on the left. The
road was not sliady, except at intervals, but the
larj^e clumps of Pauhala trees, j:jr.)\vin«;" closer to
each other as the\' api)roached the mouniains, made
a refreshiiiL; vista of j^reen leaves for the eye to rest
on. Some four miles from our <'atc we entered a
ma<j^niticent i^rove of ku-kui trees, which stretched
for miles on either side of the road. The trees
were the lari^a\st I saw on the islands, the leaves of
a delicate pea-<;"recn, and somethint^ the same shape
as a maple ; their ^reat roots la)' on the surficc of
the L^round, all <4"narled and twisted for \Mrds in
every directi(^n, reminding" one of the famous oaks

of old Kneland. This ku-kui •'•rove was

■^)

an unenc

ini;" source of pleasure to us, as our vrsitors always
admired it so much, ai.d the shade was deliL^htful
aftei" driviuL';' aloni;" the dusty hiL;h-road ; and In-
turninii off towards the sea one could imagine one-
self in a lovely park, driving" here, there, and ever}'-
wherc amoni;st these noble trees, casting" tlickeriiii^
sliadows, and always openini,^ fresh avenues, with a

glimpse o

f th

e sea

l)ey

onci.

Only

' one native

hut

was to be seen, not f.w from the steep bank, down
which a road, or rather footpath, led to a white,
sandy beach, carved in the hollow of the rocks ;

SCIlNKS is HAWAII.

i):\

(iesertcd, but apparently kccpin*,^ jealous watch over
a lar^e native tomb, which was much like a cairn,
made of rou^h stones heaped toij^ether, a small
stone wall surroundini,^ it and the hut. No native
will willint^ly remain in a hut where a death has
taken place, and for that reason, when one of a
family may be sick unto tleath, he or she is taken
outside to breathe their last ; but if such a ceremony
is not possible, the hut is almost invariably deserted
by all, the ^rave made near at hand, and avoided
in consequence of fear of evil spirits.

Passing through the cool shade of the grove we
emerged into the brilliant sunshine again, and sea
and mountains once more caine int( view. On the
right hrnd rose a green hill, quite alone and distinct,
called the Round hill, from its conical form, from
the top of which a wonderfully beautiful bird's-eye
view of the surrounding country could be obtained, .
with the Plantation and old Crater lying peacefully
together. Now the road wound down into a valley
ca"?d Anahola, where was a flourishing rice plant-
ation, cultivated by the ubiquitous Chinaman, ; ass-
ing on the way the hut, nestled in among some
magnificent mangoe trees, of an old chicftainess,
of very high rank, who rarely left her dwelling.
When other high dignitaries came to Kauai, how-

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SCENES IX HAWAII.

ever, they abvays paid her a visit. I saw Her
IIi<^hncs.s once, and she looked uncommonly dirty
and untidy.

We presently found ourselves near the tremend-
ously steep L^iilch of Molowaa, a really terrific
descent and ascent, the terror of any person of a
nervous disposition. At the time I speak of we
had to i^o down this formidable hill with brakes
held back, and at a slow pace ; just at the foot a
very awkward turn in the road made it doubly
dangerous. Since then a stage with four liorses,
and full of passengers, went crashing over the bank,
killintJ a child and inflicting" bruises and broken
bones on the others. The turn in the road brought
us down on the sea shore, and after toiling through
the heavy sand, a ford had to be crossed, where
the cinrent ran up in a rushing stream, which thus
made a terrible shifting quicksand. The native
who was riding behind dashed into the water at
once, to try the best footing for the mules ; he
waved his hand to iiidicate our course, the mules
were urged in. I heard my husband's voice encour-
aging them on, and go on they did. The next
moment we seemed to be floating in the sea ; still
the shouts went on, and the good animals responded
famously. The waters poured over the floor of the

SOKNES IN HAWAII.

105

carriage, but \vc had taken the precaution of tuck-
ing our feet up on the op[)osite scat, so were none
the worse. In the niitidle of tlie roarinir of the
current, the shouting voices, and the hibouring of
the mules, who were half swimming, I opened my
eyes for a second, and saw a white helmet floating
on the water : in the excitement of the moment it
had tumbled off the coachman's head, but in some
unexplained fashion he made a dive at it and re-
claimed it., dripping wet, but still useful. A moment
or two more and with a final rush up the opposite
bank we were landed safely on the beach in front
of us. Since our expedition a bridge has been
built inland, which has done away with the necessity
of crossing the quicksand, so that visitors nowadays
have nothinii' of the excitement attendant on that
part of the driv^e.

The plains spread out before us were very beau-
tiful; the deep shadows of the mountains lying
green and cool, and large herds of cattle grazing
gave life to the picture. We travelled on presently,
pointing out to ovw friend the perfectly round hole
which appeared to be cut in the rock as cleanly as
though with a knife, and telling him the tradition
attached to it, which was to the effect that once, in
olden times, tiie chief of Ohau was at enmity with

IOC

SCENES IN J[AWAM.

tlic cliicT of Kaufii, ;ind as neither cuulcl settle their
disputes in the orJinan- way, the chief of Kauai
threw his spear at liis opponent in Ohau, and the
latter, infuriated, threw his spear vvich all his
strength at Kauai. So ij^reat and deadly was the
aim, that the spear cut tln-oui^h the mountain rock,
inakini^^ a perfcctlly circular hole, which remains to
this day as ,i mark of the prowess of the chiefs of
that time. Truly, there were i^iants in those days!
'JMie blue sk\' has a strani^e effect, shining thrf)Ug"h
the small hole, which always looks the same, and
catches one's attention at once. A low stone fence
divided part of one pasture from the other, and by
that we knew we had passed the boundaries of
Molowaaand entered the lands of the Kealia plan-
tations, a nKigniticent estate, comprising s[)lendid
fields of sugar cane and large herds of cattle. We
passed quite through the nn'ddle of a field of cane
in full tassel, which is alwa^-s a pretty season for
the crop, each stick waving its purple feathers in
the slightest breeze.

The road ran under the great water flumes which
carried the cane down to the mill, and also under
the remains of an experiment in the shape of some
wonderful baskets swung on endless wires, which
were supposed to have solved the question as to

S(JENK.S IN HAWAII.

107

the best method of sendini,^ the cane direct from
the fields to tiie mills, it proved the reverse of
lal)()ur-savi!l;^^ and very expensive, the cane ha\inu^
to be cut in4:o exact leniijths to fit the baskets ;
wlicreas all Iciv^ths can be sent tloatinc,^ down tlve
water Humes, and the triflin;^ loss of the saccharine
matter bv immersion in ti^.e water is more than
'counterbalanced by the expense of time and labour
of the other method. The cost of puttiuL,^ up the
' Wire Tramway " was enormous, and thoui^di a
fiir trial had been L^iven to test its merits, it was
])ronounced not a success. We drew up at the
entrance of a i)rett}' little L^ardcn, brilliant with
blossf)ms of every hue, and a lovely shrul)i)c;ry in-
side the fence ; it was the I'arsonaj^e of tlie first
y\tiL(lican Church in Ivauai, and thouj^h the service
was held in a l;rri;e u[)ptM' room over the plantation
c,ir[)enter's shop, still it was none the less a church,
and tile con^rej^ation, as a rule, was very good.

The pastor was a wonderful L;"ardener, a.nd cvery-
thini,^ he took in chari^e seemed to^grow, when no one
else could m,d<e i)ro!4ress. In a small })iecc- of
L^roi'ind he Ljrew vei^etables of all kinds, and, as in
mo-.t tropical climates, the sec:ds came up and bore
fruit in such profusion that it w.is found im[)ossible
to consume the [)roduce. As he was tiie only per-

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SC'KNES IN HAWAII.

I I

son who had v^ci^et.iolcs for miles around, his ncii>h-
hours wore only too thankTul to be able to relieve
him of the superabundance. Our friend had married
the very sweet sister of Bishop Willis, of Honolulu;
they always showed us [^reat kindness aud hospi-
talitv. and on this occasion we were c^lad to take
advantai^e of the luncheon ready for us. The
cottage had a wide, shady verandah covered \vith
that most prolific creeper, the purple passion flower ;
and openinj^s had been cut in the masses of i;reen
leaves and tendril, so that one could look out over
the brii^ht little i^arden, flanked by handsome red
Australian castor-oil trees, and catch a dazzlinf^
<^limpse of the ocean. As in all houses in the
island, the sittini;-room was entered at once from
the verandah, well protected from mosqu toes by
the wire doors and windows. Matting" and ru"s
covered the floors, and easy chairs, sofas, tables,
large and small ; bookcases well filled, with pictures
on the walls, made it all look vei/ pretty and home-
like. The dining-^-oom was a little detached from
the house, with the kitchen beside, where the China-
man, when he chooses, can make the plainest food
palatable. The pastor also possessed two cows, and
was very proud of the fresh, sweet butter churned,
often by his own hand, for himself and his friendsj

SCENKS rN HAWAII.

109

by whom it was much a[)prcciatcd ; for, except on
the ranches, butter is bad, tinned, and ahnost im-
possible to procure.

We still had some four miles to go, so wc said
*' .MohaH " many, and left to catch our steamer t
Ilanamaula, where we supposed it t.) be waitini:^.
Judge, however, of our dismay when we learned on
our arrival that the boat would leave from Nawilli-
willi Hay the next afternoon. Nothing for it now
but to foll;)W the Island cusLcjui and beg the hos[)i-
tality of the next phmter's house, which we ditl ;
and, after driving through cane-fields, and following
the road immediatel)- through Lihue plantation, wc
fcnmd ourselves driving up a magnificent avenue of
royal i)alms whose feathery branches almost formed
an arch, which led us to a fine modern house, with
innnense verandahs and large, handsome rooms in
suites. This house was built almost on the same
site as one of the first :nission houses, but that
must indeed have been a contrast to the present
one. Only the host himself was to be found, his
wife and family having gone to Honolulu ; but we
were installed in a huge bedroom^ with every
luxury of carpets, curtains, books, ornaments, etc.,
antl with a sitting-room opening from it ; and after
a rest — for which I was profoundly grateful — we

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110

Hf'fSKS IN HAWAII.

h;i(l ;i substanlial siijjjx-r, served in a (iiiiiii!^-ro(jin
all furiiishc'd and inad(.' of ])()Iislicd woods, and were
waited on by a coniical-iookinj^ little Japanese. A
walk in the j^^arden the next inoniin;^ brought new
beauties to iij^ht. ( )ur friends were evidently fornl
of flowers, for there was an iniinense variety, and
all cultivated to perfection. Such jMnk j.a:raniu!ns
I have never seen ; the rose.s wei'e like trees covered
with blossoms, and the Norwej^ian ])ines, r(*arinf^^
their dark j^reen branches ainon^ the delicatt- love-
liness ()( bkjssoin and colour, hei<^dit(;ii(<l tlx- effect.
The v(-randah jjillars were wreathed in creepers of
ev(-ry hue, and alto^(;ther it was such a garden as
rjiie C()uld seldom see.

There were a numb('r of small cottages scattered
about in the grounds, foi' tluj ])urj)ose of puttinj^
uj) friend.s \vhen the house was full--a, truly Island
cust(;m, and one that nn';.dit b(.' ado])tcd by those
who like to have a country house full, 'llu- (ot-
ta^es have sonK'tirn(.'s two rooms, and occasionally
a bath-room, with a verandah to each house, so that
hosts and quests are at times (juite independent of
each o'lher.

Jk'fore we started once more to join the stesamer
our kind host brought us in some ripe piiu apples,

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HCICNKM JN HAWAII.

cut in the corr(,'ct fashion, or rath(M- inilKd in rou^h
j)icces from the cc.-ntn.' with a fork. 1 licy certainly
tasted (l('liciously and were cut fn^ni a huf.',e bed
vvin'eh was planted on a ni^j^ed hill-side, with tlic
sandy soil that )>ine apj^les there flfUirish in. y\t
Kona, on I faAaii, tlu -pine apples ;^rf)W in sucli
extraordinary jjiofusion on a dry saiid-hank (lose
to the sea that an excellent ( .inning eslal)lisiniient
was be^un and flourislurd there for souk." lime. At
last we said farewell to our kind friei'ids and drove
down to the wliarf, where as usual, everyone for
miles around had (.on^M'ej^aled to waleh the hleatner
off. It lay in the lovely litth.* harbour, whieh, sur-
rounded by hij^h, dark rocks, ^^k-ained blue and
bright in the sunshine. IVesenJy we were handed
into a bii(, rouj.^h <^>J<^, manned by natives, and rowed
to the shij/s side, whence, after several ineffeclual
efn^rts to reach the swin^in^ ^^an^way, which danced
l)ack and loith tantalisinj^ly we were finally landed
on the deck of the ship, which was moving- about in
a way that pronn'sed us a rouj^h m'^ht, riid alas!
we all soon had occasion to know that the promise
was fulfilled.

After a very stormy, rou^h passage on the little
tossing steamer, we came into the beautiful Ilono-
lulu harbour (jn a lovely fresh morning. In the

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112

SC'ENKS IN HAWAII.

liarboiir itself were ikj less than four shii)s of
war ; one was her Hrittanic Majesty's Miitifie, two
were American, and the other was either Russian
or I'^icnch, I for<^et which — I think French, however.
They ^ave quite a warlike appearance to the scene,
and as one Kui^iish ship had just departed, and a
{i:^\w days later the lar^e flaL;shi[) Szviftsitre, with
Admiral Lyons on board, anchored just outside the
reef, it provoked a remark from our cabman to the
effect, " I LTuess it looks as though England means
to swamp us here ! " The coronation was to take
place in a day or two, and already l)untinLr was
beginniiiL^ to be shown, and the i^ardens were in
perfection of beauty, after rain, and before any heat
liad come to wither them ; the l^ouc^ainvillier was
really in extraordinary masses, it seemed to run riot
everywhere, from the handsomest mansion to the
lowliest hut. At the hotel there were two hu^e
pillar-; supportin<^ the double verandah at the back,
and from i^round to roof there was a blaze of rich
purple colour, quite different from the sickly hue
the same plant seems to take in ^greenhouses. The
Mexican creeper also was like pink coral spread
over the roofs (its favourite clingin<^- place) in profu-
sion. This last requires a hot sun, and on some of

SCENKS IN' HAWAII.

113

the islands will )iot i^row, hut it makes the houses
in Honolulu espeeiall)- attractive in appearance.

Our kind friend, the wife of Her Hritannic
Majesty's Commissioner, brouL;ht us tickets for
excellent places from which to view the coro-
nation ceremonies, and asked us to join her l)arty,
going to the palace with her, which offer we
accepted most gratefully.

The next thing was to engage a cab, or "express,"
as cabs are always designated in Honolulu; the
true cab, as we understand the vehicle, is unknown
there. A small, covered rockaway, with leather
sides, drawn by one horse, is w^hat is invariably used
as a public conveyance, and the private carriages
are similar in appearance, except that in many cases
they are much larger, and require two animals.

I must also except the equipage of His Majesty,
which was a large English landau, imported direct
from London for him, and which, driven by a native
coachman, with a small cape of the red and yellow
feathers before described added to his trim English
livery, and a footman, similarily attired, beside
him on the box, presented a very smart appearance,
and was always regarded with great interest by the
native citizens. The distance being short from the

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114

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

hotel to the palace, we were very punctual in our
appointment with the frieiuls who were to chape-
ron us. We found Iler Hritannic Majesty's Com-
missioner and his family party, consisting of his wife
and two fair dauL^hters, all in full eveninj^^ dress, the
younL;" ladies in white, with feathers de rigucur in
their hair, and the Commissioner himself in full
diplomatic uniform, his wife in richest black, all on
their own pretty verandah. In a few minutes our
numbers were increased by the arrival of half-a-
dozen officers from the English war ships then in
harbour. They were magnificent in full dress naval
uniform, which is rarely, if ever worn, only on the
occasion of a royal ceremony— -indeed, one of the
officers assured me that during the years he had
be_n in the navy he was certain he had not worn
the full dress more than twice, S(j that the amount
of gold lace by which we were surrounded was
something truly startling.

We approached the palace from a side gate, at
which were sentries ready to admit us after leaving
the carriaijes. Immediatelv inside the "ate was a
broad footpath, strewn with rushes several inches
deep ; this led us to the entrance of a kind of coli-
seum, whic .1 was built in a half-circle, with tiers of
seats facing the front of the palace, where the double

SCKNKS IN HAWAII,

li:.

vcrandalis on c.ich side of tin- !.;riin(l cnlraiicc were
l^aily decorated and fitted up w ith cliairs for tlie
officials and their families and the diplomatic corps.

Directly opposite the entrance doors of tlie palace
a broad platform ran out from the to[) step to a \ery
pretty pavilion, with o[)jn sides, beautifully painted,
and decorated with chains and wreaths of flowers,
on which were the throne-like chairs of crimson and
gold, with the gorgeous yellow feather robe thrown
on one. The pavilion had a pointetl top, udiich
was painted in red, white, and blue stripes, present-
ing a lovely, tent-like effect, aiul the erection being
on a level with the lower verandah, at le.ist six feet
from the ground, gave every one a full \'iew of the
C(fremony, which was to take place in the pavilion
itself

As we neared the palace the guards presented
arms, and the band struck up the familiar strains of
" God Save the Oueen," in accordance with the
honour due to our Oueen's representative, and it
was delightful to our home-loving hearts to hear it
once more, as we had so often in Canada.

Our friends, of course, turned off to the left to
gain their own seats on the verandah, while we were
shown into delightful ones under the cover of the

'-m^ ir

IIG

SCKNKS IN lEAVVAII.

coliseum, and soon found that wc could not liave
had better ; above all, we were in the cool shade,
which was an inestimable boon c;n the warm July-
like day, especially as we were without coverin;,,^ on
our heads, our own individual r^arty bein<j in
dinner dress. It certaini}' was an interesting
and curious sii^^ht to look around and see the differ-
ent faces and ^arb of those about us. The ordinary
native women had Holokus on, many of most
expensive and rich m^'. cerials, trinmied profusely
with laces and embroideries ; their hats, in most
cases, a mass of featlicrs, of the (}ainsborough type,
set on top of hu<^e cv)iffures, with leis of leaves and
flowers ad libitioii, and strongly scented handker-
chiefs, the natives delighting in such perfumes as
musk and patchouli. Quite close to us were the
boy pupils of St, Louis College, a Roman Cathc^lic
school for native boys, in neat dark uniforms, with
white caps. The verandah soon presented a very
gay appearance, the ladies' costumes were most rich
and beautiful, and the official and diplomatic corps
fairly blazed with gold lace and orders. On the
left side of the entrance sat a fine old native, who
attracted an immense deal of attention. Governor
Kanoa, of Kauai, a very old man, with a magnifi-
cent head of white hair, from underneath which his

SCKNhrs IN HAWAII.

117

stront^ly-markccl.dark features and copper-coloured
skin sliowed curiously ain )n<4st all the delicate
colours oi the ladies' apparel, for 1 1 is I^xcellency
was given a j)lace of honour, owini];' to hi hii^h rank
as a chief, lie also was in gorgeous uniform, with
a star on his broad breast. I le was a re larkably
fine speciniL'i of the old native aristocracy, whose
manners were singularly courteous and graceful ;
and, alas ! the generation is fast dying out.

As each representative of the foreign courts
entered, the nation.i.l air was played by the really
excellent Hawaiian band, and, as we waited for the
r(vyalties, an old native lad\' in a flowing white
Holoku, profusely decorated with flowers, suddenly
began in a loud, monotonous, singing voice, an
apparently endless mch\ or " chant of praise," which
was a very ancient custom ; it was, \ should say,
improvised, and was an account of Kalakua's virtues
and achieveiuents, and praise of every kind, con-
tinued at intervals throughout the ceremonies.
Presently another raconteur took up the theme,
while the first stood and flopped her scented hand-
kerchief to cool her shining fiice. It appeared to
be highly interesting to those who understocxl the
language.

Hfs '

118

SCENES IN IlAWAir.

I !

The arrival of the Jap.iiicsc ambassador and suite
excited (general interest, a-; lhe\' were the only per-
sonal representatives from another country who
were bearers of <rreetinij^s and coni^ratulations to
K'liv^ Kalakua. They were the tiniest little fellows
possible, to be !j;r(n\'n men ; and their round, smooth-
shaven fices a Uled to their childlike ap[)earance :
in faci", the}' l():)kcd like sinall boys of diminutive
stature, arrax'ed in full evening' dress. They all
carried hi^h hats, ,ind wore different ribbons and
orders. One of the most beautiful i^ifts presented
to the Kin;;' was that sent from Jajian : an immense
pair of v.ise>, urn-shaped, on pedestals fully eii^ht
feet hii;"h. At hrst sii^ht we all thouL^ht the)' were
bronze, but on closer inspection, they proved to be
of poli-hed dark wood. Ever)' inch of the surface
being most exquisitivcK^ carved in strange figures
and animals — a truly r(j)'al gift. On either side of
the platform stood a double row of Kahili br:arers,
reaching from the palace d(^ors to the lowest step.
The Kahilis tliemselves were wonderful to look
upon. We were told that iiionths of labour had
been bestowed in their manufacture. The staffs
were full)^ ten feet high, and half of that s])ace was
taker, up b\' the feathers, massed in some curious
way on stiff str.iws, .so that nothing could be seen

SCKNKS I\ HAWAII.

119

but the wavint^ plumes. Those made of the
shining dark, green, and Ijhick cocks feathers and
of the beautifid bronze turkevs, were iriarveUous in
their effect, while the red, white, and yellow ones
were a splendid contrast in colour. The bearers
were in a kind of livery of scarlet and black, also
wearing high hats ; and capes of the red and yellow
fc\'ithers, worked in V)old patterns. The old Kahilis
belonging*- to the Roval Family were much smaller,
of pure white feathers mounted on sticks of sandal-
wood, and tortoise shell, and soni. of these ancient
relics were in readiness inside the pavilion.

The actual ceremonies of the coronation of King
Kalakua and Queen Kapiolani were not short, but
I think every one was greatly interested in watching
the proceedings, particularly as no one of the
spectators knew what was coming next Suddenly
the band struck up the Hawaiian national anthem,
" Hawaii Ponoi," a very stately march and most
melodious, and we knew that the royal procession
must be coming. The procession was headed by
the inarshal of the kine^dom, with gold staff of
office. After him came the chamberlain, in gor-
geous attire, and then a page, bearing on a crimson
and gold cushion the two crowns, which were high
structures of gold and jewels, with crimson velvet

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120

SCEN'S IN IIAWAU.

1 1

adornments. Other officers of the liousehold fol-
lowed, and then came his Majesty, wearini^ a very
handsome German uniform in white and blue
colourin^js. Ribbons and different orders crossed
his broad chest ; he wore no covering on his head.

A little behind the King came Queen Kapiolani,
in a superb dress of white silk or satin, and court
train of crimson velvet, most magnificently em-
broidered in gold the pattern being taro leaves, the
national emblem. Her Majesty's coiffure was very
high, and a veil depended from the comb, which
seemed to add also to the height. The train was
borne bv several ladies-in-waitino^ all costumed
alike in white satin petticoats and bodices and trains
of black velvet, a most harmonious combination of
colour altogether.

Almost immediately behind them walked Princess
Kaiulani (or Victoria), a pretty little lady of seven
years old, and heir-apj)arent to the kingdom, attired
in bright blue, with her dark curls tied by a ribbon
of the same hue, and carrying some flowers in her
hands, Kaiulani was the daughter of the Princess
Like-Like, a sister of the King, who died a few
months ago (His Majesty's eldest sister, Lilliokilani,
having no family, the little Kaiulani is in the
direct succession to the throne).

SCENES IN HAWAII,

121

The other members of the royal family followed
in their order of rank, the mother and aunt of the
Httle princess being most superbly dressed, one in
a satin of crushed strawberry colour, covered with
glittering embroidery of every hue, and Princess
Lydia (who attended the Jubilee in London with
Queen Kapiolani) in a Parisian costume of cream
satin, with the front of the dress made into little
puffs, each puff being held by a small gold bird.
Amidst all this moving mass of colour the pure
white surplice of the Rev. Mr. Mackintosh, rec-
tor of the cathedral, who had dwelt many years in
the islands, seemed by its familar simplicity to
give dignity to the whole bright scene.

The procession filed along the platform and passed
into the pavilion, the ladies-in-waiting and some
of the household retiring to the verandah ; the band
ceased, and the familar tones of the rector rose on
the soft air, reading first in P^nglish, and then in
Hawaiian, the service, which was neatly printed in
a small pamphlet form, and given to all who chose
to read.

Duriner the service, certain, ancient customs
seemed to be observed, such as presenting the King
with a sceptre, placing a ring on his hand, throwing

122

SCENKb IN HAWAII.

« ■

(i :

the beautiful fejither robe over his shoulders, and
waviiiL^ of the royal kahilis. Finally, after several
prayers had been said and a hymn suhl^, the
audience a^ain rose, and the Kin<4, also stand-
iiiL;", placed the crown on his own au<^ust head.
Another prayer, with a response from His Majesty,
and then he turned to place the otlier crown on the
head of his consort ; but — das for royal dii^nity ! —
the Queen's coiffure was hliih and elaborate, and
apparently no thou^^dit had been q;iven to the crown,
The audience \\atched with intense interest, while
hairpins, comb, and veil were beini;- removed. In
vain ! the crown would not fit, and in desperation,
and apparently in no very ^ood temper, the King
made a final effort, and literally crammed the
insii^niia of royalty down on Her Majest\''s temples.
Another pra\'er and response, the blessin<^" pro-
nounced bv the rector, and a^ain were heard the
strains of " Hawaii Ponoi '" (Hawaii for Ever), and
the Kini^ took up the sceptre, and with the crown
on his head, and the feather robe hani^ing from his
shoulders. His Majesty led the way from the pavi-
lion into the palace — kahilis waving — band playing
— cheers rending the air. Pacing majestically
along, the crown just a littk^ on one side of the
royal h^ad, the scene of the funny King and Queen

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SCKNKS T\ HAWAII.

123

of '* Alice in Wonderland " came irrcsistibl\' to m\'
mind as I watched the burl)- form of Kaiakua I.
marching alonc^, his l)lack curly hair makin;j^ the
pose of the rich gold circlet even more remarkable.
One would not have been astonished to have heard
the counterpart of the order, " Off with his 'or her)
head," issuing from the royal lips. I think, though,
that it was the Queen who was the blood-thirsty one
in "Alice," and certainly none could connect such
an order with the kindly countenance of Kapiolani,
who walkei behind her r<)}'al spouse, beaming good
nature and hap[)ii\ess on all near her.

Unfortunately, the King, having realized his
ambition of being crown :d, thought it was only
proper he should have a court, and also a new table
of precedence; and, as for fifteen years certain
people had enjoyed a distinct rank, they naturally
looked upon such ;is an Individ iul right ; and when
these new rules were inagurated, the result can
easily be imagined to have been dissatisfaction and
grumbling in all quarters.

In a few days invitations were issued for a ball
to be held in the Palace, as an im[)ortant feature
of the coronation festivities. The cards were much
the same as those for the coronation itself, rather

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SCENES IN HAWAII.

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liirj^cr, perhaps, and with a ^old crown restiny," on a
crimson cushion cnLjravcd at the top. All the
younij^ people were in eac^er expectation of the en-
joyment of the occasion, as it was the first really
larii^e ball cjivcn by the King.

On the evening appointed we drove to the same
gate used by the people the day of the coronation,
but instead of being open, as at that time, to a rush
strewn pathway, we found ourselves in a pretty
passage lined and laid with crimson cloth, and
flowers everywhere. In this we were received by
an officer of the household, who conducted us to
the entrance of the large space which was enclosed
by a tent of enormous size in front of the palace.
The pretty pavilion which had been used for the
coronation ceremonies was moved to one side, and
in this the Hawaiian band was discoursing sweet
music, and a state quadrille was going on opposite
to the entrance door, Mis Majesty, in full uniform,
dancing with the wife of the head official. The
Queen, I think, was in a seat arranged for the
royalties, looking on, as I fancy Her Majesty did
not care for European dances, though the Princess
Like-Like was a graceful and accomplished dancer,
and the King himself waltzed beautifully. The
steps leading up to the verandahs were covered with

SCENES IN HAWAII.

125

red cloth, and the palace hall and reception rooms
were a blaze of light, the verandahs being provided
with comfortable seats in every direction. We
walked about, and looked with much interest at the
many beautiful costumes worn by the ladies, which
were interspersed by the brilliant uniforms of the
royal household, and also of the many officers of
the English and American war ships which were at
that time in the harbour.

We found many of our friends, and the dancing
was delightful, the band rendering exceptionally
good music. All went on merrily for some time
and the fears of rain were almost naught, when
suddenly a few drops were heard pattering gently
on the roof of the huge tarpaulin covering. In a
short time some found their way through, and pre-
sently little pools were formed on the floor, in
between which the dancers endeavored to wend
their way. Still the rain poured steadily on, and
in a short time the cloth on the steps leading
up to the palace entrance was soaked the
covering not having been extended over the steps
to the tent roof, and so the open space afforded
thereby was soon streaming with the ram. Ladies
with delicate satin shoes looked askance at the
shining stairs, which, covered with baize, at one

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S(JKNKS IV HAWAII.

t '4'

tiiTic scarlet, were iu)\v black and sociden. What
was to be done ? Some of the younger people
made a rush and Lrained the haven of refiiLie, but
those who wore trained L,^o\vns Iuiiil; back, dodi^nnj^
the now fast-fall iiiL;" shower of dnjps. /\t last one
lad)' couraL,^eously set an example by acceplini; the
offer of a chair, which, raised by four stalwart arms,
was carrietl at a quick run up to the vestibule ;
others followed, and in a few minutes the tent was
cleared of the ij^uests, wh(^ found tliemselves trans-
ported as if by maijic to the brilliant rooms of the
palace, where the beautiful dark polished floors of-
fered even a more temi)tini^ field for the dancers
than the tempor.iry one of the pavilion.

The hall of the palace was very lar<4e, and (jblonc^r
in shape, with a handsome dark staircase at the far
end, which ran straight up and then branched off
rii^ht and left. The floor was dark ; on either side,
rani^ed aloni^ in stands, were the magnificent feather
kaJiilis, which had l)een dis[)layed at the coron.ation ;
bright, c(^loured carpets were laid from the door to
the foot of the stairs, and brass and cr)'stal chande-
liers shed a flood of light on the scene.

On the right hand were two sets of large double
doors, opening into the reception room, in which the

SCENKH IN JIAVVAM.

127

kiii!J was accLisloiiicd U) Liivc audiences Uj dihlin-
finished visitors, a lar^c, lon^ajiartiiK'nt witli polish-
ed floor of dark native woods, hui^e windows ()i)eii-
inL,^ on tlie verandahs, iiuiii,^ witii crimson drai)eries,
and very beautiful aiul unitjue cornices of brass made
to re[)resent the ancient Hawaiian spears, crossed
at the tops cjf each curtain. Brilliantly lighted as
it was, it was a splendid ball room, and the dancint^
was resumed as merrily as thoui^h no disturbini^
clement had occurred to mar the enjoyment of the

evcnmg.

Later on we went to supper, crossing' the former
ball room — deserted now, but rendered less un-
comfortable by the cessation of the rain, — whicli
opened into another long, narrow inclosure, built
specially f(;r the occasion, with a table in th.e form
of a T, at the top of which the king and his party
sat.

(jrood things were in abundance, and huge bowls
of punch, etc., were scattered about — the silver
and glass were all nice — and flowers everywhere.
Of course there was grumbling, but as in the most
civilized circles, that is not an unusual thing ; it
was not to be wondered at that all were not satis-
fied, though no trouble was spared on the part of

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128 SCKNES IN HAWAII.

the King and his assistants to make everything go
smoothly.

A very funny incident occurred later in the even-
ing, which was witnessed by myself and a few
friends, showing, in a measure, the dislike, and even
inability, of the Polynesian natives to bear the re-
strictions of civilisation for any length of time.
They can endure them up to a certain point, but
when weariness sets in they seem obliged to suc-
cumb to their own longing for ease and carelessness.

A number of us were seated on the broad couches
ranged on cither side of the hall, talking over the
events of the evening, when our attention was
caught by three figures coming down the great
staircase, in the full glare of light, and which looked
so at variance with the pretty evening costumes
about us that involuntarily we all stopped our talk-
ing, and gaped in astonishment at the sight of a
young native woman, clad in a bright scarlet holoku
a straw hat, with a wreath of flowers round it, set
on the side of her head, a wreath of leaves round
her shoulders, and bare feet. Following her came
an older, stouter lady, with a long loose garment of
some dark stuff drawn carelessly round her, carry-
ing a native straw hat in her hand, and with feet

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129

thrust into Ljalochcs. A momentary pause of
astonislimeiit on our i)art, and then some one said,
with a L;as[) : "The (Jueen!" and vvc all rose to
our feet antl made obeisance, as Iler Majesty calm-
ly and smihn^dy returned our salutations, and
tinnini^ round at the foot of the stairs, marched off,
r)llo\ved by another lady in waiting, costumed
much as the one in advance, and made her way out
of the back entrance, which opened directly on the
{grounds, in the far end of which her own house lay.

The fact was that the Queen, unaccustomed as
she was to the discomfort of the very fashionabiC
l'2uropean costume in which she had appeared in
public for many hours, had, after endarini,^ it as
loni;" as she could, madi: up her mind to disappear
into private life. After changing her gorgeous
robes for the easy garments she always wore, she
was no doubt happy in the idea of eluding observ-
ation, and it was a mere accident that she was seen,
as every one was supposed to be in the supper
room. 1 was intensely amused at the sight, as it
seemed to make one realize, as nothing else could
have done, that the display and ceremony was, after
all, but a thin veneer of outward show of civilisation
laid on the native character of lazy ease, wit i which
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SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

Hawaiians r.rc so iiiiprci^iiatctl. luiuall)' were we
struck by tlic :aliii indifference of the Ouccn on
bein^L; tliscoverecl in her undii^nificd apparel. " A
Queen once, always a Oueen," must have been the
motto whicli sustained Wc.v Majesty.

A few ni<;hts after tlie b.dl, we were bidden to
witness !?ome fireworks, which were displa\-ed in
the palace grounds, a treat whicii had l)een pro-
vided for the natives mainly by the <^ood nature of
the Kini^, and to hear the deej) drawn " Oh's" and
"All's" of tiie hundreds of Plawaiians when they
saw a L^rand rocket, or Catharine wheel, for the first
time in their lives, and their child-like deli<^ht at a
" rocking ship" made of gaslights ingeniously
amalgamated, must in itself have been a pleasant
reward for 1 1 is Majesty's kind thought. That
evening the palace was gaily illuminated, and open
to all visitors who choose to take advantage of the
opportunity afforded of inspecting the beautiful
rooms. The King was, as usual, kindness itself to
one and all.

Another feature of the homage paid to King
Kalakua was the " llukoopu," a very ancient cus-
tom, but to the performance of which none but
natives were admitted ; th> ■ was the laying at the

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131

Kind's feet presents of every deseriptioii b\' every
native who coukl i)()ssibly do so, aiul the majority
of these presents were mainly of eatables, alive and
dead, cooked and uncooked. I'ii^s, chickens, fish,
notably the squid or cuttle fish, deli<^ht of the
Hawaiian appetite, pink t.iro (i^rown for and eaten
only by high chiefsj poi of many kinds, bread fruit,
water melons, sweet potatoes, native fruits, such as
mangoes, cocoa nuts, alligator pears, limes, etc.,
leis of feathers and shells, calabashes, rolls of tapa
cloth, mats of every degree of fineness, all those
were taken in such quantities, that the courtyard of
the palace was heaped with the gifts offered.

The greatest kindliness and jTood nature seemed
to prevail everywhere, and certainly the news which
comes to us at this time of the confusion and re-
volt which is being ex[)erienced \w Honolulu just
four years after the carnival of the coronation seems
hardly credible to those who remember the bright-
ness of that period in the Hawaiian capital.

Shortly after the coronation ball had taken [)lace
and we \vere wondering " what next," we received
invitations to a large " Luau " or feast, to be held
at lolani J\dace. The cards were quite as elaborate
as those for the coronation itself, and we were asked

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SCENES IN HAWAII.

to present ourselves at twelve o'clocck in the day
most fortunately it was a brilliantly beautiful clay,
the sun shiniiii^ bri<j;;htly, but always tempered in
its heat by the cool trade winds. At the appointed
.our we walked down towards the i^ate which had
admitted us on the former occasions, and found
throng;s of natives of every class on their way to
the same destination, a Luau havinc^ much the
same attraction for the Hawaiians that an immense
feast would have for a lot of school children. All
were dressed in their smartest array, the women in'
the brii^htest-coloured holokus with, in nearly every
case larij^e hats with feathers and wreaths of flowers ;
the men in c^oru;eous shirts of every hue, and the
inevitable straw sailor-like hat, with leis of roses,
honcx^suckle, and wild ginger, flowers of every
kind ; they almost always wear sncnvy-white trou-
sers on i:^ala days, and the result is a very picturesque,
costume. They were laughin^^ and chatterini^, no
doubt chaffiui^ each other, for the natives are very
sarcastic, and always see the humorous side of a
thiuf^ first, no matter at whose expense. We passed
through the f^ist collectini;' crowd, and trained the
entrance to the palace f^rounds, which were nn this
day thrown open to the public. Rushes strewed
the pathway to the same large enclosure which,

SCENES IN HAWAII.

133

r i]

with its tent roof and tiers of seats, presented much
the same appearance as on the coronation day,
except that instead of the small pavilion, the centre
space in front of the }:)alace was taken up by two
enormous tables runnini;" their full length between
the seats. Tliese tables were draped witli white,
but the entire to[)s were covered with ferns and
leaves massed together so as almost to form a
tablecloth of themselves ; quantities of flowers
were placed about mingling with the ferns. All
manner of native dainties were offered to the guests,
who took their places, ate as much as they wished,
and then withdrew to the seats to look on at their
hungry successors. At every second or tliird place
was a great calabash of the inevitable poi, without
which no Hawaiian meal is complete. At each
plate was a small bundle of the ti leaves enclosing
various fish which, being cooked in the leaves and
also served in them, preserves the delicate flavour
immensely. Sweet potatoes of enormous size,
boiled and baked taro, sea weeds of different kinds
boiled nnd eaten' hot, kukui nuts grated up as
a kind of salt relish, native onions, bananas, and
native fruits in quantities, — all these go to make up
a native l.uau ; and above all, the noble pig baked
in a hole made in the ground for that purpose,

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S(!KNKS IN HAWAII.

wliich is filled with hot stones and leaves, covered up
for a certain length of time, and he finally emer<4es
in a state of perfecti(jii unknown to those who have
not been fortunate enouirh to taste Mr. l^is/i^v in
such a condition. No Northener can imai^ine the
difference between the ordinary roasted pork and a
p'v^ baked in the c;"round — the flavour is tot.dly
different. I\.aw fish plays a conspicuous part at
Luaus cOo. The method of eatin<^ these various
delicacies is certainly not appetisini^, the rapidity
with which they disapi)ear beinc^ somethini^ mar-
vellous, each fish is dexterously torn to piece ; and
passed to the next neii^hbour, and so on, the last
person who receives it pr(j[)ably bein;^" the loser.
KvcrythiiiL;- is eaten in that way, so that at the end
of the feast the untidiness of the remains is i^enerally
something appallin<^^ The only licpiid served on
the day 1 speak cjf was soda water, a brittle of which
lay at each place.

We sat down at a little distance, and watched
the curious scene. The natives had turned out in
Li'reat numbers, and the scent of their leis of flowers
and maille leave:: was almost overpowerini,^ Many
half-whites were there too, dressed in a wonderful
attempt at luin)i)ean fashion. Two sisters we
especially remarked, dressed in flowing black iiolo-

SCJKNKS IN HAWAII.

1 35

kus and the very lari^est crimson plush li;its 1 ever
saw, with enormous plumes nodding in the air.
There were numbers of attendants, male and female,
all natives, who moved about in the leisurely way
natural to llawaiians, and did their best to clear
jeach table, as it was vacated, f(jr the next comers.

The King had devoted many of the offerings at
the lIuku[)oo to thi-> Luau, which, strange as it may
appear, actually went on for hours; it had been
goiu''" on for some time when we were there at
twelve o clock, and it was still progressing late in
the afternoon. On the verandah of the palace were
Oueen Kapiolani, Princesses Lilliokolani, LikeLike,
and Kaiulani, surrounded by a large suite and many
officials. Presently an aide-de camp, in a handsome
German uniform, almost all white, was sent to ask
us to go up to the piazza, and so we pr(^sently
found ourselves in the court circle. Her Majesty
was in the centre, attired in a beautiful holoku of
rich white satin, whose flowing, cuni)le fjlds suited
her much better than her gorgeous coronation robes,
and she looked much more comfortable, giving us
her kindly smile of welcome as usual. The little
heir-ap[)arent looked pretty in a crimson velvet and
pink costume, with a huge Kate Greenaway bonnet
framing lu r dark eyes. Many of the white ladies

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SCENES IN HAWAII.

had a.s.sumed the holoku in compHment to the
natives, many in richest material ; but all paled
before the wonderful tints worn by the wife
of one of the Cabinet Ministers, who was
sittin^^ close to us. She was a remarkably hand-
some woman, a full native, very dark brown skin,
enormous in stature and size, but with a really
beautiful head and face, the features perfectly
regular, of a half sad, almost statuesque expression.
Round her shapely head was a wreath of various-
coloured roses, but her dress vas marvellous, the
brightest yellow satin, shot with purple and trimmed
with quantities of green — a brilliant grass green,
too ! It was as near one's idea of a bird of paradise
as could be ; a large lace collar lay on her shoulders,
which was no doubt the finishing touch. llie
whole combination made one's eyes fairly blink !

During the afternoon some ancient spear dances
took place, mingled with others, and during the
cvenincT we heard the heathenish sounds of the
small native drums, which invariably accompany the
Hula-hula dances.

The professional dancers (of whom the best come
from Hanalei) are regularly trained by an extra-
ordinary looking man, who is known by the name

SCENES IN HAWAII.

137

of " The Dandy ; " he is, I think, a half-white,
and tlie aim of his existence seems to be to
make himself as conspicuous in appearance as
possible. To this end, his costumes are of the
most ilashy kind, and quite different from those
worn by ordinary individuals. I saw him one
afternoon in Honolulu, attired all in purple velvet,
with a ij;reen waistcoat ; the coat was similar in
shap: to an ordinary dress coat, but with unusually
lon^ tails, and there appeared to be some i^old
embroidery about his sleeves. A ridiculously high
collar, with a stock and a tall white hat, com-
pleted this most extraordinary — what ? one cannot
call it dress !

I believe these Hula dances are a relic of the
barbarism practised by the Hawaiians, and am
told they are extremely coarse and un<^raceful in
every way ; the Government at times make spas-
modic efforts to suppress them, but hitherto with
little result. The girls are usually ugly, and wear
a curious kind of short dress, drawn up through
wreaths of leaves which are worn around the
hips, and their bare ancles have small fur or
feather rings ; the music consists of a small round
drum which gives a monotonous sound, beaten

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138

SCENRS IN HAWAII.

continuously by the dancers or others placed for
that nurposfc.

The coronation festivities were closed with some
races, wliich took place on the pretty race-course at
Waikiki, about two miles from Honolulu, and we
enjoyed the fun of it all immensely. The officers
of the ships in the harbour <^ot up a gentlemen's
race on any scratch animals which could be 'j^ot
to[;ether, rei^ardless of size, ag'c, or wxMi^ht ; which
gave an interest to the friends looking on. A
charming luncheon in the tent of the King's cham-
berlain, at which His Majesty King Kalakua
attended in person, gave us an additional pleasure,
and having heard the strains of " Hawaii Ponoi "
from the band, we drove back to the town, pausing a
moment to see the start of a fine four-in-hand,
coached in a masterly fashion by an ex-officer of
Her British Majesty's cavalry.

We also saw the unveiling of a very fine bronze
statue of Kammehameha I., which was placed in
front of the Hall of Leti^islature, The i^reat chief
was a man of enormous strength and grand appear-
ance, and the statue shows the tall, manly figure
clad in the malo ; the ancient feather robe falling
from the shoulders. On the head was the head-

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

13'J

dress assumed by chiefs goin<^^ to battle, the form
ahnost precisely the same as that of the ancient
Greek helmet. This was also made of tlie
<dittcrin<j L/old coloured feathers massed on some
kind of firm foundation, and as the cloak and
helmet were L^ilt, the effect against the dark
bronze was really beauti'^ 1 ; the ri-ht hand was
extended holdini,^ the mii^nty spear, which it was
said no chief but Kammehameha could wield, so
large and heavy was it.

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140

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

ClIAPTKR IX.

Life on a Plantation — Work in tlic Cane Fields — Labourers —
Chinese — Portugese -South Sea Islanders — Looking after the
Labourers — ^Ilolidnys on the IMantalions — The Doctors Orders,
— Chinese with Sickness— Visit of H. P. ^L S. "Constance."

T.TFP^ on a su^ar plantation in tlic Hawaiian
^ Islands is vastly different from the same
existence on a similar estate in the south ; it
is intensely primitive; very lonely; interesting; at
times, and always anxious to the planter, who has
the several questions of labour, water, climate, and
profit, or no profit ? to contend with, throughout
the year. For in planting sugar there is no rest
as there is in a winter season on a farm. As soon
as one crop of cane is cut and taken to the mill to
be ground, planting for the second, and sometimes
third rotation has to be attended to ; these are
called second and third ratoons, and on some of the
finest plantations produce crops almost equal to
the first season, The mills grind nine months
out of the twelve, and of course cane has to be
ready for the grinding without stoppage ; at busy

SCENRS IN HAWAII.

141

seasons tlie mills grind at ni^ht, and one enterpris-
ing planter who had one mill for two plantations
had the electric light i)ut in and the labour was
incessant night and day.

The hours for work are not so long as they are in
a town, and as the weather is fine for many months
out of the year, and every one is in the open air, it
is not so enervating as employment in close rooms
would be. I except, of course, the mill em[)loyees
and the bookkeepers. The atmosphere in a sugar
mill is something as close to that of the hold of a
steamer as can well be, the heat being terrible,
and the noise of the machinery being deafening.

Whole families of the labourers turn out to work
ill the fields ; mothers, fathers, and as many children
as can work, are in the fields before six o'clock ; at
twelve they march off for their dinners, which they
bring with them, and leave off for the day at half-
past four. The labourers are divided into '' gangs "
each at different work ; planting, watering, hoeing,
ploughing, cultivating between the rows, ditching,
stripping, (tearing off the superfluous leaves to get
the benefit of the light and sun), cutting, carting
and finally loading the small tram cars, which are
carried into each possible field on portable rails ;

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SCKNES IN MAVVAIl.

each gatiL^ bcin^ watched b)' a hiiia, or overseer,
ahnost always a wliitc man, very often a youni^
Kn.L;h'shnian who has found his way out to the
Ishmds, in search of " somethini^" to do." China-
men have frequently their own head man, who
lives in their quarters, euL^^aj^es the i^ani^s, and
•generally looks after them, A chinaman's dress in
the fields seems composed of motley raj^s ; an old
cotton coat, once blue, and curious flat hats with
broad brims turned down all round, the crowns very
small, inside of which they sometimes wear a kind
of skull cap, and occasionally an old kerchief will
tie down the hats, out of which their cunning faces
look in a comical fashion.

The Portugese women are always picturesque, if
not very clean ! their fondness for bright colours
denoted in the brilliant cotton handkerchiefs tied
over their heads and round their necks ; their walk
and actions are very graceful, carrying, as they do,
immense weights on their head, beginning w^ith
small ones in childhood, which makes them move
lightly and steadily, with head erect. It is a
comical sight to see a women with perhaps a huge
basket of linen on her head, or a heavy sack of
flour, with the husband lounging behind bearing
a burden in shape of the inevitable baby, which lies

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

1 i:?

iiiulcr the fences all da)' wliile tlie iiiothei works
near by.

The South Sea Islantlers were the most repulsive
lookini^ creatures ; thtir (ju.irters .*ere isolated by
the sea shore, and or-; would he reminded of the
'* missin<^Mink " on the first i^limpse of the ^ans^r
stalkinir aloiiLT in siniile file on their homeward
way.

The faces were very black, and most animal in
feature ; tlieir bushy hair, coarse be)'ond descrij)-
tion, stuck out all round, and their <^reat tusk-like
teeth, and starini;' black e\'es, i;-ave them a very
monkey-like appearance.

The women wore a kind of skirt, and sleeveless
garment, made out of the old sui^ar sacks, cuul in
each ear, the holes bored were so large, that a
bunch of matches, or twig full of leaves, were ge-
nerally used as earrings ! They seemed devoid of
intelligence to any extent, antl I always disliked to
meet them.

The labourers are engaged by contract, some-
times for two or three years, as the case may be ;
and the more civilized ones, such as the Portugese
z d Germans, look on the Signora as the one to do
much for them ; anything they want, they ask for,
and most unreasonable demands are made at times.

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SCENKS IN HAWAII.

U fl

A sort of medicine chest room is' always kept
supplied for their use, and when a I'ortuj^ese, man
or woman, makes his appearance with his or licr
liead tied up tii^htly in a handkerchief, then you
know that "Oh, Sii^mora, I ijot bad cold," or, "My
hand, or foot, or lei^^" as tlie c ise may be, '' is sore,
very sore," or, as they say, '" M}' stomach very
sore," is sure to be the complaint ; but whatever it
may be, the Iicad '\9> invarii'.bly wrapped up!

When a low fex'cr broke out, we often visited
them, to induce them to take the bitter quinine
necessary, and would always try to show by ex-
ample that fear would not make them well. One
case only of typhus came.

The quarters are divided up into small and lari^e
rooms, and all connected with a verandah, in which
they chiefly live, taking their meals on the floor,
and always sewing on tlie door steps. Their fire
places are in front, made of bricks or stones built
round holes dug out of the ground, and sometimes
roofed over by rougli boards.

The men are incessant smokers, and .coming
down each Saturday night for their money, will
talk and snioke for hours if allowed to do so.

The planter has to try and settle disputes, but

SCENICS IN HAWAII.

145

bcin^ of (in intensely excitable nature, they like to
carry their differences into tlie law courts, and* if
the " Sii^nor " decides his case aL;ainst them, they
show their disapprobation by the most outlandisii
shouts and i^^estures, on one occasion t^'oini;" through
the form of han^in^ their master, makini; his ^nave,
and finally stampin^L,^ on it with L,n-eat ener^fy.
However, their excitement ^oes as cpiickly as it
comes, and a few minutes afterwards they will be
as jolly as possible, havini^ fort^otten all tlieir
animosity.

Public holidays occur frequently, and the Por-
tufTesc take a ^^reat many relii^ious ones also,
Christmas and New Year's Days were usiiered in
by the glee siuL^in*:;- and serenadinij;- of the natives,
who roam about to all the houses from 1 1 p.m. to
3 a.m. Germans sang too, and swcetl)- enough,
though the hours chosen were rather inconven'cnt.

On Christmas and New Years Days, the Planters
used to get up races of all kinds, on foot and on
horseback ; and one year we had an exhibition of
lassoing by the most expert Spaniola on the Plant-
ation, Manoa by name, a very good-looking native ;
he threw the lasso with great grace and dexterity,
trying it on some friendly Englishmen who offered

lO "

SCENES IN HAAVAII.

I !

I i

themselves as victims, for the ladies benefit, they
ridinf,^ as fast they could induce their steeds to go,
and Manoa f^alloping after and making the broad
loop fall round the waist of his quarry with the
greatest ease possible, amid shouts of applause
from the bystanders.

The natives also picked up half dollars from the
ground, sweeping past us at full gallop without
stopping, which was very pretty to watch.

The Portugese were fond of arraying themselves
in white, with immense paper heads of animals on
their shoulders, and bringing out a May pole, with
numbers of bright ribbons, would go through regular
old-fashioned Morris dances to some music of their
own

They also danced what they called " fandangoes,"
a kind of tarentella, and were very fond of them on
these occasions.

Kammehameha Day, and the King's birthday
were the native holidays, and in old times they
liked to give exhibitions of §urf bathing, or swim-
ing out on the top of a huge wave, armed with a
l)lank, and then riding back on the crest of the
wave, much as we do with our toboggans on the
snow hills. But as with so many old native prac-

SCICMKS IX HAWAII.

147

ticcs surf riding is rapidly going out, aud only
seldom now can it be seen.

On all plantations good schools are provided
by the Government, which also appoints the school
teacher. At Kilauea there w^as a large building
given to the Plantation by some kind donor for a
church, and as it was too large for our scanty con-
gregation, part of it was divided off into the school,
and Hawaiian and English taught ad. lib.

Pastor Mahoi had a <n-eat levee in the church
when it was first built, and everyone young and
old was supposed to pay down their silver dollar
on entering the building, to pay for the painting of
the walls.

Long tables (an innovation) were spread with all
the delicacies usual to the occasion ; the smoking pig
being borne in by quite a procession of native and
half-white damsels, with large leis of maille and
fiowers, Mr. Piggy being cut up into small pieces,
disposed on plates, and eaten as usual with the

iiiiiers.

crowc

1 of

young peop

le were hauirine

about outside, perhaps rather shy of facing their
acquaintances ; this did not suit th(j Master of Cere-
monies, a talkative lawyer, and he presently dashed
out and after haranguing at the door triumphant'}-
hauled in the delinquents, and marched them up to

r :

!l M

I .

148

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

the tabic to deposit their doUars. ( )iir bo\' Johnnie
had anxioiisK- requested an advance of waives that
niorninfj;', and on my wanting" to know what he
wanted tlie money fur ! It was : " Me want a c(jat,"
" all same at Chinese store," so to my astonishment
I saw three youths bein^ escorted up to the table
by the M. C. and in one of the three sleek, brushed,
white trousered, black coated trio 1 rccoi^nized
Johnnie ! he had determined not to be outdone, and
had i)cud his ."j^i^ for a black broadcloth! I don't
suppose he ever wore it a^^ain, for a native detests a
coat of aiy kind.

Our English services were held on Sunday after-
noons after the natives had i^^^t over their morning"
worship, which with them was a i^reat event, the
people all riding;", women with babies in front, men
wMtii f^irls sometimes ridini^ j)iHi()n-fashion. They
sang a great deal, but when tired of Pastor Mahoi's
exhortations would adjourn to the Chinese restaur-
ant across the road, and have a cup of coffee or a
pipe, then return to await the ^\\<\. . :

The only native who did not ride, was a very old
man, Pihi (fish) by name, who probabl)-, in tlie days
of his you*', had never mounted a horse, and now
thought it late in life to l)egiii. 1 le walked sever; !

..i j

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

149

miles to cluircli, aiul always carried a huge blue
cotton umbrella, what for, I do not know, as sun and
rain are alike to a Hawaiian. Pihi's bow, or rather
salutation, was a thini^ to be seen, it was sweeping
and stately to a decree, the wave of his hand and
his cheering- "Aloha, Aloha" quite charming.

The Portugese, being Roman Catholics went to
a church at Molowaa, and a huge procession of
carts and horses used to set off, looking picturescjue
indeed with the mass of briLfht colours. (3ne of
our labourers was anxious that 1 should be god-
mother to a little baby girl, and it was to have one
of my names. We found on searching their diction-
ary that "Carolina" was familiar to them, so that
suited admirably. On the Sunday app(j'!ited we
dr(3ve over to Molowaa and found a (jreat crowd of
Portugese and natives assembled. The ceremony
of the baptism was long and tedious, and during
that time the child was carried to the door, where
the priest, followed by all the relatives of the
child and ourselves, went to meet it. Apparently
it was to be received anew into the church, and on
liis Reverence asking for the god-mother, I stepped
forward and was asked, " Are you a Catholic." On
iny saying " No " he at once declined to let me
officiate, but said, " You cannot promise for the

=■

8^;

ih.

! ll

150

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

child, but you may promise she will be a f^ood
Catholic." I assented, and after cfjvin<>- a bright
silk kerchief and some little presents for my [god-
child, we departed.

We had many Scotch friends on the plantation :
Our Mana'j^er was from Alid-L(»thian ; the doctor,
sugar-boiler ; school nuister and minister combined;
and head blacksmith, were all Scotch ; also the
engineer, who brought out and controlled the great
steam plough, which did such capital work in the
fields ; and it was curious to hear the broad soft
Scotch accent, amongst the many dialects and
lamruaijes which assailed one's ear on a walk through
the plantation, English, Portugese, German, Native,
Japanese, Norwegian, Chinese, made up a great
medlc)' ; and now and then would be heard a
French word or so.

There was a large restaurant in connection with
the store for the convenience of the young white
lunas, and the fare was generally good, the cook,
Scharsh by name, being much above the average,
quite a professional in fact.

A small English club was got up at one time ; it
flourished fairly well, but at different periods would
be dissolved, and then re-assembled ; the members

SCENKS IN HAVVAFF.

If)!

i^ave one or two little dances, especially when any
lady visitors were to be had to swell the limited
number of fair ones. Then riding parties were
(T,reatly in vogue, by afternoon, and by moonlight ;
sometimes to the top of what was known as the old
Crater, though no tradition survives as to its ever
having been active.

The Kilauea plantation was beautifully situated
with the mountains on one side, the river running
through it, and the Crater hill rising above the sea,
which bounded the other line. A broad road ifin
through from the church to the store for nearly half
a mile, with the mill and numerous rows of quarters
on either side. Some of the cottages of the better
class were quite pretty with bright gardens and
verandahs covereci with creepers of every kind.

When anyone leaves from one cause or another,
everything possible is sold by auction, and that is a
gala day for the people, especially natives, who
fairly love the excitement of buying in that wa)',
and will spend the whole day looking on at others
doin<j^ likewise.

Accidents in the mill were not so frequent as one
would imagine, but sometimes it was of course ine-
vitable that they would come ; and our sympathies

llij'

ilj-

152

SCENES IN IIAWAH.

Ill

were always deep and sincere for the poor maimed
fellows. Fortunately we had one excellent physi-
cian on either side of the island, and our own doctor
was a good friend as well. lie had come from one
of the great Royal Infirmaries in Scotland, and
used to the untiring vigilance and prompt obedience
of nurses and patients there, was at times fairly
dismayed at the utter disregard to his orders ; and
stupidity shown by those on whom he had to attend
in Kauai.

One day an 'liderly native woman broke her leg,
the accident taking place some distance from the
plantation, and she had been carried to the house
of a relative who happened to live near at hand.
The doctor set the limb, and bandaged it up com-
fortably in the usual way ; what was his wrath,
when on visiting the patient a day or two later, he
found the bandages unfastened, the splints gone,
and some leaves bound round in their place. He
good naturedly reset the bone, and left strict orders
not to touch ; however, on his Uv^xt round, he dis-
covered the same process had been gone through
with, so he gave up the patient into the hands of
her own kahunas, who had no doubt been the means
of frightening the old wretch into this rebellior ;

SC'KNKS IN HAWAII.

153

the old lady was : cripple in consequence, but not-
withstanding, if a similar accident had happened,
the doctor would have been certainly summoned,
only to have his measures followed by the arrange-
ment of what they termed "strong medicine''

Chinese are m ch the same, but not knowing-
the fear of death, they will not even attend on each
other in times of sickness, a thing from which they
shrink in abhorrence, and not even extra pay will
induce them to shew common humanity in times of
illness ; their medicines are even more extraordinary
than the native roots and leaves, one man asking
one day if there was a certain drug to be obtained,
which was made from the "monkcvs brains,"
naturally his request could not be fulfilled.

One bright remembrance often occurs to us, of
the visit of H. \\. M. S. " Constance," which event
took place about six miles from Kilauea, the ship
anchoring in the beautiful harbour of Ilanalei.
The "Constance" brought down the British Com-
missioner from Honolulu, and as he came to stay
with us at Wailele, and the Commander went to
the manager's our visitor dubbed Wailele the
" British Legation," and the other home " 'J'he *
Admiralty."

154

SCENES IX HAWAII.

Everyone got toi^ethcr every available convey-
ance and animal to brini^ our guests over to the
plantation, and I believe hosts and guests enjoyed
themselves equally. One of our middy's, now
doubtless a gallant lieutenant turned out to be a
son of a very old iriend, which made the meeting
even pleasanter, and their three days sojourn in
the far off island home will be always remembered
with the kindest feelings.

On the last morning of their visit, two of the
officers walked over from Hanalei, to Wailele for
breakfast, a feat which was looked u[)on by most
people as an act of madness, in a country where no
one ever walks any distance.

Just below the house was a deep pool under the
fall, and in that our merry naval frientls disported
themselves long, they declaring that the fresh water
swim was the greatest treat the)" had since leaving
r>ngland. We had many and welcome visitors to
Wailele, but none more so than the officers of " The
Constance." The Manager's home was also close
to the river, which being very dark in colour just
there, gave it the name of Waiuli Hall, or "House
by the black water." There was always a great
dinner given in the handsome dining room at

■

mmmm

SCEXKS [N HAWAII.

155

Cliristmas timc^to all who could come, and the
hospitah"t}' of WaiuH was well known in the
island, the garden was lovely, slopino- down to the
river bank, with a lari;e fountain round which grew
Terns and red ginger in profusion ; and a border of
large white sj)ider lilies was beautiful to look on,
and delicious in scent The view from the veran-
dah steps was charming, the river \yinding down
'til lost in the sea, and the varied tints of the luxur-
iant foliage completing the picture.

•inc.

SCKNKS IN HAWAII.

CllAPTJ'.R X.

()|i(.iiiii_t; of tin- Lei;! -la In re in Ilonolulu— Ceremony -I li'- Hd'atc" -
— The Wonderful Inlci prcter Nc-ws Klics Fast- -My r'ii>t and
only Scorpion -Oilur Insects — Visit lo the Market.

*TX a subsecfuent visit to tlic i^ay capital of Ifonn-
^ liihi, I experienced two tliiiii^s, of a \\iclel\' dif-
ferent character liowever.

One was the opcnii'ij^^ of and the debate at tlie
Hawaiian Lei;islatui"e ; the other was my first and
only introduction to a scorpion !

First, surcl}', should come the cerenionx' per-
formed in pers(jn b\' His Majesty.

The debates are carried on b)' the reverend and
grave Seii;neurs in a large, handsome room in- the
Public Huildings, in front of which stands the really
splendid statute of Kamamhamha I., and on tix
appointed da\-, of which we had been made awara
by tickets " h'or the Moor" liaving been most kindly
presented me, in company with Her Britannic
Majesty's Commissic^ner, and Vice-Consul, we drove
up to the great door through quite an avenue of
King's Guards outside, and passed through a line

SCENES IN UAWAU.

157

of K.ihili bearers with j^orgcous feathered eapes,
inside the long hall, in waitinj^- fc^r the royal family.

The room was thronj^ed with all the elite of
Honolulu, most of the ladies in haiulsome morninir
dress. We had excellent seats for obsej-vinijf, which
we did with all our eyes, h'acin^i;- us was a l-iri^^e
dais, with a throne-lik'e chair and canoi)y, all cover-
ed with crimson and i^old. To the ri^iit and left
of the dais were arm chairs for the luch'-es (jf the
Supreme Court and the Diplomatic Corps. The
JudL,^es, four in number, were arrayed in robes of a.
deep maroon satin, trimmed with fur of some kind.
I heard they were like those assumed b\' the Jud^ijes
in Switzerland, but cannot vouch for the fact.

The British Commissioner, Amerfcan Minister,
(or in exact form, I should reverse that order) ; the
Foreign Consuls and Staff were in umTorm; and all
the ladic '^ad donned their bri<;htest array. The wife
of the Portugese Consul looked particularly attrac-
tive in a pale heliotrope satin gown draped with a
Spanish mantilla, which was worn with natural grace.
Now we heard " Hawaii Ponoi," and presently the
King and his sister, Princess Lydia, preceded by the
Chamberlains and Kahili bearers, came in and took
up tlieir station in front of the throne, and while \vc

\;:A

iM!

158

SCKNKS IN II A WAIT,

lilfi

all stood, His Majesty read tlic speech, first in
Enj^lish, then in. Hawaiian. The Kiiii^, «is before
describee!, has a remarkabi)' soft musical voice, and
I was ^lad to hear the Hawaiian lan;4uai;e read by
a chief, as there Is an immense differiMice in the in-
tonation, each syllable beini; so clearly and well
pronounced.

The Princess stood calmly surveying the people,
scarcely movini^ while the speech was bcin;^ read,
her crimson satin lookinjj^ very handsome in the
bright light. Her Ro\'al Highness was in full
evening dress, with an immense train, a bright
crimson blossom in her dark hair, and carried a lace
handkerchief and fan.

At the conQlusion, the King declared the session
open, wished us all loha mui, handed the speech
to the A.D.C., bowed gravely twice, and withdrew,
followed by the Kahili bearers. A curious mixture
of the barbaric and conventional, and the impres-
sion was always left that these people, though per-
haps not all that we might desire in some ways, yet
carry off their ro}-alty with the mien of " To the
manor born." Others may argue that there should
be no display, look on it all as nonsensical in this
nineteenth century ; but on occasions such as the
one described, it was always curious to mark the

StKNLS IN HAWAII.

151)

l^ravc dii^nit)' of bearing evinced by the Ihiwaiian
chiefs.

A few days afterwards when we went to hear a de-
bate, we found llieas[)eet of tlie chamber somewhat
chani^ed ; tlie floor bcin<^ taken up with desks, at
eacli of which sat two members, the dark faces of
the Il.iwaiians sliowinu^ in contrast to their paler
bretiieni. In two rows of chairs facing" each otlier
on either side of tlie dais were respectively, on the
rii^ht the members of the Cabinet, on the left the
Nobles, who are always termed " Honourable " they
answer somcthin;^" to our Senate, but have the same
chamber as the ReiM'csentatives.

The vcnerable-lookini;- President, as the office of
our Speaker is termed, occupied a large chair
at the front of the dais, the throne behind, being
evidently only usctl on State occasions. Imme-
diately below the dais was the Interpreter, who filled
his office in a most marvellous fashion ; in front of
him was a railed-in space enclosing a large table at
which sat several reporters busily engaged with their
short-hand.

An animated debate was going on, in which
many members were constantly joining, but only
one, of course was allowed the floor at a time.

IV ;■

u^m

ill

160

SCENES IN HAWAII.

Now came into display the powers of the Inter-
preter ; for instance, up wouk! get a member ready
for the fray, burninL; with eloquence, a flood of words
pouring out in defence of his point, he would go on
for perhaps three minutes if in English, when, lo,
up would go the Interpreter's hand, the English
tongue woidd be suddenly silenced, and the words
taken red hot as it were out of his mouth and trans-
lated into a much more eloquent flow of Hawaiian !
gestures telling of indignation, appeal, surprise,
assertion, were all carried out most f;iithfully. In a
t ■ moments the stream of speeck would cease, the
former orator \vould take up his theme again, and
would be about regaining what he had lost by the
interruption, and begining to feel he was doing his
subject justice, when up would go the hand of fate,
and again the S(/ native words would translate the
harsher English for the benefit of the Hawaii ri
members.

I !

The member for Honolulu got up to speak, but
his eloquence was summarily disposed of in concise
English. Again, a white brother took the fl(3or, with
the same resi ,as before, aad I be^an to feel some
sympathy with the members, for no one, I should
think, not even thegrandold man liimself could carry

1L^

SCENES IN HAWAII.

161

but

icise

Iwith

borne

lould

■arry

on a debate in lliis fashion without fceh'nLr that hewas
at least bcin^ cruelly treated, to the detriment of his
speech, and the failure of eloquence, f he interpreter
I am sure, took care that his native liearers should
lose nothing by his translation ; he walked up and
down in quarter-deck fashion, always keepin<^ his
face ti the house holding his audience by sheer
force of clever interpretation ; in fact he was the
whole, house embodied in one man ; his apparent
interest in everything v/as so extraordinary, no
speaking by rote, but shewing a feeling of responsi-
bility on every subject he took up, as though he was
personally involved. Imagine all this in a nc^t very
airy room full of people, the thermometer probably
registering at least 70° in the shade outside, and
then think of all the exertion required for this, day
after day.

I came away deeply impressed with what 1 had
witnesstd, and also with the fact that new.^. flics fast,
as when I returned to the house where 1 was stay-
ing, I was told with great glee by a young member
of the liousehold, that the evening paper already
reported the fact that " Mrs. Captain Forsyth Grant,
occupied a chair on the floor of th«: house this
afternoon," at which we weregreatly anjMed.
n

162

SOKNES IN HAWAII.

to J III

ill

Now fmni the sublime to the ridiculous, comes
my interview with a scorpion. Other insects, such
as immense grey spiders, with Ic^^s as thick as a
pen holder and hairy withal, I had learned to look
on with a certain degree of tolerance, especially in
the case of the si)ider, as I was always told by the
Chinaman, *' No killee him, he eatee moscpiitto."
Centipedes I did not love, and was a bit frightened
of the great black and red creatures, which if you
did cut them in half did not seem to mind, but
tradition said actually joined together again ! To
the latter I cannot assert, but I certainly have
seen both halves of the wretched creature move.
Cockroaches as large as mice almost, were to be
met with alway\s, and the onW thing which seemed
really to get rid of them was an application of
crushed borax, or Persian insect powder, both of
these being in some way obnoxious to them, and in
consequence a careful house-wife had to cover her
linen shelves, and do^e liberally everything which
liad to be put away for a time. Ants of every
species carried their armies into ever)'thing, and the
only way to get rid of them was to put the legs of
tables and safes into cans of water, but as a friend
said once to me, " Ants are so self-sacrificing, they

SCENES IN HAWAII.

163

will bridge with their bodies a way for their com-
panions to gain the desired end."

Frogs and snakes there were none. I remember
being so struck by a mother of a family once askino-
me to tell her children exactly what a fro^- was like
for as she remarked, '' The only thing they know of
frogs are their pictures, and in an ordinary lesson
book, frogs are made the same size as flies ! "
perfectly true too !

All these creatures I was " well acquainted with,"
but never a scorpion had I seen until one mornin<T
I took up a sponge, and saw what I took to be a
friendly grey spider ensconsced inside. I poked at
it with my finger, when to my horror out writrcrlcd
a hideous looking, uncanny monster. I called to a
young friend near, and she cried out, " Oh, what a
big scorpion, wait a moment," which I did, and she
hurried back with a huge hat pin, with which she
impaled the beast against the wall, leaving him to
die a lingering death, but from my observation I
should say a scorpion had no feeling to speak of.
It seemed to be all long claws coming forth from a
thin, almost transparent body ; and a tail which
curled right over its v/hole length, was almost trans-
parent also, but the extreme tip of which had a

IG4

SOKNKS IN HAWAII.

brii^ht scarlet spot, .'iiul my friciul told mc that was
the only drop of blood in its whole body. The
bite of the scorpion is supposed to be almost deadly
in its effects, and is greatly dreaded, so I suppose I
had a narrow escape when I put an enquirin<^ finc;er
into Mr. Scorpion s abode.

While in Honolulu durin<^tliis visit I went tc> the
market one Saturday afternoon, and was much in-
terested in watchiuL^ the motley crowd makinj^ their
purchases of fish, always tied up in i^rcen leaves,
the loni^ feelers of the squid hanging down in all
directions , fruit of every description, from piles of
pireapples to baskets of limes, water melons,
greatly liked by the natives, fresh figs, mangoes,
alligator pears, etc., mingling with enormou.s
bunches of bananas, which grow wild all over the
Islands.

Outside the market place were the women selling
their leis of flowers of all kinds ; they were all
lounging in every conceivable lazy attitude on the
ground, with their wares displayed on mats beside
them. Roses, jasmine, oleander, wild ginger, all
went to make up the fragrant necklaces. The
vcndois were chatteri.ig, smoking, tcilking at the
top of their voices, laughing, all the while threading

S(JKNKS IN HAWAII.

165

the blossoms on the thin fibre used to strini^ the
leis toi(ether. With their bric^ht coloured holokus,
dark faces, white teeth, and all the tropical sur-
roundings of a brilliant sunshine, palm trees, the
market stalls heai)ed with all kinds of curious
things. Chinamen walking abf)ut carrying cala-
bashes of poi for sale, and the general air of lazy
inactivity which always prevails in a Hawaiian
crowd, the contrast to a bustling nortliern market
was strong indeed.

The climate of Honolulu is most deli<ditful from
October to June ; the later summer months being
hot and dusty ; and the young people have delightful
parties of all kinds, to suit the climate; pic-nics on
horseback, when a thin dress is sent on in the pro-
vision waggon to replace the heavy riding gear, in
order to scramble about in the woods arc charmin"-.

Bathing parties b)' moonliglit arc a great recre-
ation, many people having pretty summer homes
down on the sea shore some distance from the
town, and from the verandahs of which one can
step into the sea. Tennis, cricket and baseball
flourish, the two former games especially so when
ship's officers are amongst the visitors to the town.

The different public holidays are periods of h\n
and merriment of different kinds,

iff

16G

SCENES IN HAWAII.

: ^

Queen Victoria's birthday is always observed by
a reception at the J5ritish Commissioner's ; some-
times, as was the case on this visit, by a ball under
the same hospitable roof, when the sailors from the
flai^-ship "Swiftsure" were the skilful decorators
of the improvised ball room, and the beautiful band
cf the ship furnished the delii^htful dance music.
Ilerr lieger's " boys " as he calls them, having
given us a selection of English airs during the
morning ; enjoyed extremely while sitting under
the shade of t'le pomegranate trees then in full
blossom.

The other national holidays are always observed
much in the same manner ; such as the 4th July,
Kammehameha day, etc.

The most ordinary ball-room can be easily trans-
formed into beautifully decorated rooms with the
masses of palms and flowers, mingled with ferns
and maille always so easily obtained. One young
lady was quite famous for her taste in arranging
the different groups of green and colour, and was
always greatly in demand during any special season
of gaiety, and her kindness was as well known as
her talent.

In such a tropical climate flowers seem the
easiest things in the world to obtain, and the

SCENES IN HAWAII.

167

decorations of the cathedral at festive seasons were
most beautiful. One Easter I specially remember
from the exquisite beauty of the arrangements.

F'or many years the decorations have been
divided into certain parts by different members of
the congrcL^ation ; thus, the kindly wife of her
Britannic Majesty's Commissioner always under-
takes the pulpit, assisted by her daughters,- Three
charming girls, all cousins, took special charge of
the font, and the lay sisters of St. Andrew's Priory
made tiie altar beautiful by their work ; the
members of the choir decorated other portions of
the church ; and in that way all knew beforehand
exactly what they were to do, and made their pre-
parations accordingly — each getting together all
the flowers for the special work Such division of
labour makes it interesting to all, and one might
recommend this plan to any parish. The Easter
flowers are in such profusion in Honolulu that there
is no lack of choice. One lady I 'icard saying, —
*' I am afraid that I shall not have enough tuberoses
in the garden ; I must beg from my friends," — and
apparently she had begged to good effect, for on
Easter Even, going into her house, it seemed filled
with the perfume of the lovely flowers, and on my
asking where they ^v■ere, I was taken to see the

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III

168

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

huge wooden bath, about cit^ht feet in circumference,
simpl)^ filled with the sweet-scented things. There
was no other receptacle large enough to hold the
mass. The natives have their early service first,
an^' we did not go till the mid-day one. The font,
which was near the door, had its base wreathed in
green and white, and the cover, which was a very
high pointed one of wood, was literally covered
with nothing but stcphanotis and vi(jlets, making
the most beautiful pyramid possible. The pulpit
had small tin cases fastened in two rows, painted
green, and thus concealing themselves behind and
among the banks of tuberoses, heliotrope and cloth
of gold and Marcchal Niel roses. The altar was
apparently standing almost in a shrubbery of
flowers, and a ver)- handsome cross of brass work-
rose out of the sweet blossoms, adding much to the
effect. The service is high in St. Andrew's, and
the gorgeous robes of the Bishop and his assistants
made a glowing picture in the rather dark interior
of the chancel. Just in front of where I was sitting
were the royal pews, and on the ledge were large
crimson velvet covered books, with the royal coat
of arms and motto emblazoned on them. The
royal family are regular in their attendance at the
two native churches, in both of which their Ma-

SCENES IN HAWAir.

169

jestfes take great i„terest-thc king l.i.n.sdf not dis-
clain.ng to speak sometimes at meetings held in tlie
church.

0„ two occasions wlien visiting friends in
Honolulu, the cathedral was well filled with blue
jackets, several ships of war, Kngl.sh and A„,erican
be.ng „, the harbor at the time, and the bri-dn'
n-esh faces of the men in trim and spotless u„if„„ns'
were very plesant to see. A service on board the
Sw.ftsure, a large flagship lying outside the reef
and to which we were taken i„ a beautiful steam'
launch IS a bright remembrance.

The kindness and hospitality of the people of
Honolulu to their visitors is indeed great, and I
imagine the charming climate will obviate the
necessity of a demand for anything more of a con-
ventional state of society, as the life is naturally so
much more in the open air and sunshine than could
poss.bly be obtained in a northern climate, and
people can therefore meet together readily, and
Without ceremony.

I have heard, however not a tradition either, that
smce Her Majesty's return from I.:ng,and, Oueen
Kap.olan, has given several "afternoon teaV' to
lad.es only, and that the gatherings at the Palace '

170

SCENES IN HAWAII.

were most popular, bein- enjoyed by hostess and
guests alike, and no doubt gossip at Honolulu is
indulged in, over the fragrant cup, as easily now-a-
days, as the songs and legends were heard in years
gone by, by the Ilawaiians of old over the calabash
of poi, or bowl of awa.

P !

SCENES IN UAWAir.

171

.nd
, is
-a-
ars

ash

CHAPTER XI.

All iiiteresiinjr episode.— Johnnie. — Kealia House. — Tic-nic up the

Waialua. Koloa.— The Jud^je's Home.— Mrs. .Sinch\ir and

Family. —Ideal Life. -Waimea River. — Kekaha. -Visit there.
— Lepers at Waimea. — Cane at Kekalia. — Old Kahuna.—
lilue Lake at Kekaha.— Harkini,^ Sands.— Waehiava R.mche.—
Burial Caves. — Hanamaula.- -Hcjuie aj^^ain at Kilauea.

And now \vc were to have a mo.st intcrcstincr
journey, one which created a good deal of surpri.se
from our friends on all sides, and that was, a long
drive of no less than 120 miles, as far round the
island of Kauai as could be managed without cross-
ing the mountain, and back to Kilauea, and all to be
done in our little phaeton, with the assistance of a
cart wherein to cany our higgage, which we were
thus enabled to send from place to place, taking a
bag in the phaeton to guard against contingencies.

A stoical native boy, Johnnie, of whom mention
has been made before, promised to come with us,
and act as courier in general, and "hookey up" in
particular, so on the appointed day he made his
appearance in a very wonderful get up of white
trowaers, blue flannel shirt with enormous white
buttons, high boots with jugling spurs, a huge felt
hat with a lei of ginger round it, and another lei of

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SCENES IN HAWAII.

maille leaves over his shoulders, the finishing touches
being given by a great leather belt, and a brilliant
cotton handkerchief, like Joseph's coat, of divers
colours, tied in a loose knot about his neck. Thus
accoutered, I am sure Johnnie looked on himself as
the one person of importance in the trio. Johnnie
was supposed to ride a mule of well known steady
manners, driving another in front, on which we had
strapped the bulk of the luggage ; however, this
last proved a dead failure, for after giving him at
least two hours start, we drove off, and when pass-
ing through a road some few miles away, we des-
cried Master Johnnie riding in the degage manner
peculiar to natives, and letting tlie pack mule
wander at his own sweet will, which being of an
erratic tendency, was just then taking him perilously
near the edge of a very steep gulch thereby endan-
gering our precious packages most uncomfortably.
The truth was, Johnnie's dignity was hurt ; start-
ing off was a novelty to him, but as the day wore
on, '* Ginger," the pack mule, got weary of his
burden, and "Whiskey," the one Johnnie bestrode,
did not object to following the quiet pace necessary
to the pack mule, and as a native is only happy
when going at full gallop, or loping canter, he
thought he was being cheated out of his pleasure

SCENES IN HAWAII.

173

due him, and my firm belief is that Johnnie would
not have been overcome with sorrow if Ginger had
tumbled over the gulch. However, we encouraged
him with cheery words, and drove on, leaving him
most disconsolate, and he did not appear at the
rendezvous until after ten o'clock that nlAit The
next morning he was sent back to Kilauea for a
small cart in which he thereafter drove the mules,
and everything went smoothly enough.

We spent two days at our friends the pastor's at
Kapaa, and found him in the best of spirits, and his
garden a blaze of colour and blossom as usual.

While there we rodr over to the handsome and
hospitable residence c-f the owner of the two
plantations, Kapaa, and K'ealia ; the house, a
modern two-storied structure with mansard roof
stood in beautiful gardens, where roses of every hue
grow almost into trees of exquisite beauty. In
front of the house was a small artificial lake in
which grew masses of pink water lilies, which were
very lovely. Here the Australian Euchylyptus
trees were in great profusion, their fragrant leaves
diffusing a delicious odour when crushed. Olives
grew there too, their dusky colour revealing the
true " olive green,"

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174

SCENES IN HAWAII.

The rides and drives about were, as usual, lovely
in the extreme. One pic-nic up the Waialua river
lingers in my memory. We started a party of
eight, a lot of young people with us, and sailed
up the pretty river where the " windings " in and
out were constantly opening visions of beauty;
ferns, reeds, grasses grew down to the edges, and
were mirrored as in a glass. Magnificent guavas
grew in such profusion that we stopped for
luncheon where we could pick huge basketfuLs
without any trouble. Here a very funny incident
occurred. A native had begged us to give him a
seat in the boat, and his request being acceded to,
he wished to take the whole command on himself,
which was, however, calmly, but firmly objected to.
He proceeded to tall< a great deal, standing up in
the boat, working his hand now in this direction,
now in that, as he thought the course ought to be
shifted, and we came to the conviction that the
would be skipper had been indulging in his
favourite tipple, whatever it might be, to the extent
of making him slightly incoherent.

When we landed he was vi^ry officious, and on
being suppressed, he got sulky, lit his pipe, and
established himself in an easy attitude on the
forked branch of a tree several feet from the

SCENES IN HAWAIt.

175

ground. There he lay, presently fell asleep and
snored vociferously : but while we were trying the
depths of the hospitable luncheon basket, we heard
a tremendous report of breaking wood, and going to
find out the mischief done, we discovered that the
branch on which our friend had made his couch
had completely broken from the tree the sleeper
lay flat on his back, the pipe still in his mouth,
but all the same the slumberer was undisturbed
from his sleep ! Our laughter should have
awakened him, if anything would, but he still slept
so soundly that we thought it a pity to disturb him,
and so left him to his fate. I might here remark
that on our returning some hours later to bring our
guavas, the native was still asleep ! What became
of him I do not know ; the river lay between him
and his home, but that is a small obstacle to a
Hawaiian.

d on

and

the

A long way up the Waialua we came to a once
beautiful estate, where coffee had been found in
immense quanrities, and flourishing crops were
obtained until the blight came and destroyed every-
thing.

. Taro patches covered the valley, and on the top

■*■'*-" iMfir- ■"**'r^

\7(y

SCENES IN HAWAlt.

of the hill, wc could make out the stone foundations
of what once had been a lovely home.

At a short distance a double waterfall made a
really beautiful picture, and after gazing for a long
time at the whirling rapids, and the varied foliage,
we made our way down to the boat again, enjoying
the sail home in the short tropical twilight!

We left Kapaa on a brilliant morning, and after
a drive of some hours through an undulating road*
reached a pretty cottage home, where we were
welcomed by the kind and courteous judge of that
district, and his daughter, who was known for her
beauty and sweet manners all over Kauai.

Koloa was the name of the plantation, and it was
almost a town, with shaded roads, and pretty old-
fashioned houses with verandahs covered with
creepers, varied by smaller habitations. There
were two churches, a large district school, one or
two " stores " and the usual plantation buildings.

The house at which we were received was a small
cottage in the main building with a verandah in
front, round which wandered a beautiful grey and
pink paraquet which was a great amusement to all
new-comers ; to the right of the house was the
kitchen, and the judge's office ; to the left, a large

■3ss^^ ^<i^tmi ^ s m I u_i w wi «M>

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

/ i

le or
)^*

;mall
ih in
and
.o all
LS the
large

room for visitors, all detached, in the usual island
fashion.

The cotta^^e was almost buried in s'l^^ar cane,
which grew thickly in front of the house, and
behind babbled a lively little brook through a
pretty wood ; the judge was a great poultry fancier,
and everywhere one w^ent chickens of all sizes and
ages seemed to appear from all sorts of nooks and
corners.

We spent three pleasant days at Koloa, enjoying
discussions on many things, from evolution to
poultry, for the judge was a great reader and deep
thinker, and was able, best of all, to impart his
thoughts to his ready listeners.

We left Koloa early one bright morning, and
at mid-day passed through another plantation
called Eeele-Eeele (Elly-elly), where we saw in the
distance a white house, seemingly nestled at the
foot of the mountains, at which we later had a most
pleasant visit. Further on we saw some extensive
rice fields, which w^ere so gaily decorated with
poles from which fluttered streamers of every hue
imafjinable that at first one thought there must be
some festa in progress, but the deafening noise of
the cans hung up in the breeze, and popping of

178

SCENES IN HAWAII.

guns, soon made us aware t'^at all this display was
for nothini{ but to frisjhten the little rice birds from
the grain on which they vainly strove lo feast.

We came in sight of the sea, along which a rough
road wound, and presently were confronted by a
truly awful looking hill cut out of the rock, on
which one could discern a narrow bridle path, well
worn, with rocks of every shape and size on either
side ; the carriage Jiad to go up, and so had we, so
with a cheering word to Hop, our little carriage
mule, a willing animal but a trifle treacherous with
his heels at times, we began the ascent, the coach-
man walking beside with reins in his hands. Such
a bumping and shaking was seldom experienced,
but we did manage it, and at last after a severe
struggle during which the wheels were almost at
right angles with each other at times, we reached
the top, and looked down from our rocky elevation
on the plains where stood a large rambling home-
stead, white, with green blinds and wide verandahs,
surrounded by trees and flowers.

The descent was easier on that side, and at the
foot of tl\e hill we turned to the right through a
gate into a road that led up to the house, across a
primitive bridge, underneath which ran a wide

SCENES IN HAWAII.

179

the

11 a

s a

ide

stream with steep banks. As we approached the
house, our kind friends came to the verandah steps
to meet us. First came a fairy <^od-mother-Hke
old Scotch lady, whose name is known far and wide
in the Hawaiian Islands. By her side stood the
eldest son and his wife ; two kind matronly faces
smiled in welcome, also daughters of our hostess ;
and again, another generation behind, in the two
granddaughters, and grandsons. I may here
mention the fact that many years ago, the head
of this fine family with sons and daughters left
Australia to seek another home in the wide
Pacific, and they, being rich in the worlds goods
took a ship for themselves, and " sailed, and sailed,
and sailed," until they landed by preference on the
shores of Kauai, and here made a home, or rather
homes, for besides the house on the plains (the
native name of which I forgot,) they have a charm-
ing retreat in the mountains called " Makaweli,"
to which they can escape when the heat gets intense,
and where, wonderful to relate, there is a fireplace !
And where the coolness of the climate is such that a
fire *^ kept constantly burning, and to anyone who
had not seen a fire for years, that of itself was an
immense attraction. Another grandson had bought

180

SCENES IN HAWAII.

the Island of Niihaii, and lived there in truly
patriarchal fashion, amongst his flocks and herds
and with no coinnumication with the outer world,
except what was attainable through an occasional
visit of the steamer and a trip now and then in one
of his many whaling skiffs. A young family grow-
ing up, however, must eventually, one would think,
disturb the calm and quiet of such a retired life.

The house on the plain was built to accomodate,
many a visitor, each bed-room being made to open
on the verandahs all round the house, with a dress-
ing-room at one end. And frequently eighteen in
number sat down to the table, for another daughter
and her family were settled within a few miles. The
drawing-room was large, filled with evidences of a
charming home life, piano, books, work, pictures,
and all description of curious and interesting objects ^
brought from abroad, where different members of
the family would go for a prolonged visit to far-away
regions.

Mrs. Sinclair owned immense tracts of lands, and
the natives therefore owed to her allegiance in the
way of work, in return for being able to keep their
dearly loved grass huts and Taro patches intact.

A great deal of land was being turned into sugar

Mml

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f^CKNKS TV HAWAli.

181

cane during our sojourn, and the rich soil promised
abundant crops, if irrigation could be attained, and
since our return we have seen accounts of engineers
being employed to convey water from the numerous
mountain streams to the fields, which will be all
that is wanted to ensure phenonemal crops.

' We had a delicious luncheon, such home-made
bread and butter, such vegetables, preserved man-
goes and cream as seldom comes to one's lot in
Hawaii, and our long drive had sharpened our
appetites into being able to do full justice to the
meal, which was served to us by an old white-haired
native butler. After luncheon we went to see some
beautiful Arab horse5?, which had been recently
imported, and greatly admired the handsome crea-
tures which poked their fine muzzles for the bread
which they all contentedly took from kind hands,
and pawed the ground with high-bred feet as
though impatient for a swift galop on the breezy
plains. .

Towards evening we left our kind hostess as
we were to reach Kekaha, the farthest plantation
on Kauai, for a long promised visit ; and were very
happy to have the opportunity again later on, of
renewing our acquaintance with this ideal family

l8!2

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

party. For it was an ideal life, surrounded by tiicir
own kindred, clianninj^ homes, those depcndcni- ' n
thcni i;lad to be so, and with a feeliiiij^ of attach-
ment which can only come from a lifc-lon^ service;
a perfect climate, and with means to cross the broad
seas wh'^never inclined for change and health; what
can me.e closely realize the perfect life? True,
there is no church near at hand, but morning and
evening brings family prayers, which in old days
was the only form of worship known ; horses in
abundance to ride, and carriages to drive gave
exercise to all, the broad sea beach a quarter of a
mile from the house invited those who wished to
bathe to do so, the exquisite changes of atmosphere
brought pictures of land and seas to gratify the eye,
and the wonderful ferns and foliage gave subjects
for the artists' pencil, as are seldom seen.

Mrs. Frank Sinclair was an accomplished artist,
and her sketches of flowers and plants, including or-
chids, were really beautiful. I think they have been
bound together for private distribution, and would
be a valuable addition to a flower-lover's collection.

A lodge in the mountains gave the gentlemen
the means of " camping out" for days, while hunting
wild cattle, a dangerous, and no doubt, an interest-

.^-rw

^ uf

80ENKS IN FTAWAII.

183

.ist,
or-
Iccn
)uld
lion.

men
:ing
kst-

ing pastime for a lower of si)()rt and still another
sylvan retn^at, built in a |)icturcsque spot in the
hi^h woods, added tlie toucli of romance, when I
may add that before we left Kauai, two of the
youn<^ cousins i^ot married, and went to spend their
honeymoon in the pretty cottai^e, to which they
rode after the ceremony, followed by the ^ood
wishes of the immense party of relatives assembled
to the weddini;.

After leaving Mrs, Sinclair's we drove to the banks
of the Waimea River, which was very much swollen
from the rain, and their found Johnnie with the
cart and mules. A large party of natives looked
on with interest when we prepared to ford the
river, but a second look made mc sure the little
phaeton would be submerged if we attempted to
cross in it. What was to be done ? I could not
ride across very well in my evcry-day raiment,
with the chance of getting wet, and try the carriage
I would not. The question was solved by putting
me in the cart, which of course was much higher,
and being driven with the mules, who never object
to water.

The phaeton was driven over by a native, and
at one time it looked as if he and the carriaire and

184

SCENES IN irAWAtt.

' :! I

Hop would all swim off together towards the sea,

so deep were the waters ; however, we were all

landed at last in safety, and I was deeply relieved

when we were able to start in our proper order

again. There was a capital bridge built a little

lower dov\n, but the ends were not finished so that

a carriage could go on it ; but after that experience

I found 1 could walk r .ross it well enough, and

wait while the carriage was driven across the ford.

We drove on across a flat sandy road, passing the

mill at Waimea, and came in sight at sun down of

Kekaha plantation, which is built almost on the

sea shore, the cane fields running up all towards the

mountains.

We passed a pretty house with a fountain and
flower garden, and drove through a sort of com-
pound in which were some grass huts, and tare
patches beyond, and finally drew up in front of a
modern house, one story as usual, with a wide
verandah lunning round three sides, and shaded by
some splendid mangoe trees. In a few minutes we
were welcomed by the master of the house, a most
kind courteous friend to us, and installed in a
large and comfortable bed-room charmingly fur-
nished, and we soon were at supper, where the

iiii

SCENES IN ilAWAII.

185

host and his partner served the most delicious
coffee I have ever tasted. Bein^- both Germans,
coffee was a necessity, and their Httle Vienna
machine certainly produced a most excellent form
of that beverage, strong, hot, and fragrant ; here we
were introduced to tlie German combinations of food
which are put up in tins in Germany, and thus find
their way so many thousands of miles. Cabbage
with vinegar, small sausages, big sausages, cheeses
all new to us, fish of a kind unknow'n to our primi-
tive ideas, and other things excellent in their way
were pressed on us.

While at Kekaha we had fresh cocoa nuts fre-
quently ; a native boy climbing up the trees, many
of which grew close by, and bringing the young
green fruit down for us ; in that state the meat was
a delicate white pulp to be eaten with a spoon
from the shell, and the milk was very cool and
pleasant on a warm day ; and the days are generally
warm at Kekaha. It was a cooler period than had
been experienced for a long time, during our stay
there, and seldom the therometer went below 75° in
the shade, but the air was so softly tempered by
the sea breezes, that we rarely felt the heat oppres-
sive The air is extremely dry at Kekaha, more so

■'^^^ ^

186

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

tlian in other parts of the ishuul, and is most benefi-
cial to anyone sufferin*;' from rheumatism or
neurali^ia ; several cases were brought to our notice,
cases of severity as well as of lon<^ standini^" which
gave way to the salubrious effect of the soft dry
atmosphere. • •

In the rides and drives about one saw miany
novel and curious sights. The river, or rather the
valley of the W.iimea is a purely native settlement,
and the luits arc of every size and shape, almost
buried under glowing foliage of every hue.

Oranges are particularly good there, and riding
past a prett}' little grass hut one d • we were
attracted by the sight of a fine tcdl orange tree in
full blossom; and bearing, I should think hundreds
of the briuht gokien fruit ; I never saw a more
perfect specimen of an orange tree. The natives
swarmed in numbers through the valley, and they
would lie about in the laziest of attitudes, returning
our "Alohas" with indifference.

Many lepers are there too, poor unhappy creatures,
but the movements of the Sheriff and his officers
are too closely watched for justice to be done as it
should. The fastnesses of the mountains are almost
inaccessible except to those who are born near

a6a«SB

iiCENKS IN HAWAII.

187

there and in consequence, know of all the secret
hiding places which are sought immediately an
alarm is jriven. The word Molok.ii means of
course, banishment in its most awful sense, a livin"^
death indeed ; and to escape this in isolated cases,
the whole Hawaiian race is bein^r exterminated.

The Government have proposed makin<^ a retreat
for the lepers oi' Kauai on their own island, and I
may here copy from one of the Honolulu papers,
an account of an expedition of inquiry, undertaken
by the members of the Board of Health to satisfy
themselves as to whether it was practical to do so.

" Oil Tuesday of last week His Excellency L. A.
Thurston, Minister of Interior, Dr. N. B. Emerson,
President of the Board of Health, and Mr. \V. E.
Rowell, Superintendent of Public Works, all of
them members of the Board of Health, embarked
for Kauai on the steamer Mikahala. They re-
turned by the same steamer on Sunday, when a
representative of this paper obtained from the
President of the Board an account of the ex-
pedition.

" By an arranj^ement with the captain of the
boat, with the consent of Mr. G. N. Wilcox, an
I. I. S. N. Co. director, the Mikahala called at

^»^^isy ■■ir^av^ m-

l88

St'KNF.S IN ilAWAli.

the vallty of Kalalau on the morning of Thurs-
day. Leavin^^ Waimea tlic}^ steamed along the
coast for about ^ miles. The view of the
mountain clIiTs was wonderful, the carving of
nature being declared by the members of the
party as unsurpassed on these islands in beauty
and sublimity. This was especially true of the
pinnacles and gorges ne>ct to the above named
valley. The mountains back are 4,000 or 5,000
feet of elevation at their highest. The only ac-
cess to the valley is by difficult trail over the
mountains, or by another trail along the precipitous
cliffs of the coast in the direction of Haena, on
the Hanalei side. During nearly six months
access by boats is forbidden on account of the
breakers, the sand of the beach for that time
being washed away so as to leave nothing but a
rocky beach. This stormy period lasts from
October or November to March or April. :

" The expedition left the steamer in boats and
were carried through the surf in canoes, making
very exciting business for which the party pre-
pared by removing their foot gear. They found
a fine sandy beach of about 200 feet in breadth
to the overhanging bluffs. Inhere horses were

SCKNES IN HAWAII.

i89

found in waiting, on which they rode to the
village, a distance of about a third — or half a mile,
accompanied by a large number of the population,
which altogether approaches sixty or seventy souls,
including about twelve lepers and one Chinaman,
The rest of the population are a fine, healthy lot
of people, above the average for large and sym-
metrical physique. There was notably a healthy
looking band of children, numbering twenty-three,
attending the school. •

" The food resources of the valley are abundant.
There are at least seventy-five acres of land either
under cultivation in taro or capable of being so
cultivated. Many more acres are suitable for
raising Irish or sweet potatoes, yams, bananas,
sugar cane, etc. There is a fine stream of water
which in the present dry month is more than
ample for all necessities, irrigation as well as
household.

•' Reaching the settlement, the expedition rode
inland far enough to gain a fair view of the
larger part of the valley, thus assuring themselves
of its extent and resources."

This is the valley to which the lepers of the Is-
land of Kauai are said to desire to be transferred,

'W» ■■^f-

190

SCENES IN HAWAII.

;}

that they may here be segregated from the rest of
the people, and thus be permitted to escape removal
to the leper settlement at Kalawao. It was with
the purpose of gaining accurate information on this
point, and seeing for themselves how the land lay,
that these three members of the Board of Health
made this visit to the valley.

The cane at Kekaha was a marvellous sight, so
enormous in height, tliickness and quantity. Some
of the sugar canes were thirty feet high, and we
tried to count the number of sticks growing in one
stool, as it is called, a clump in other words, and
after counting thirty-six, we gave up in despairj the
crops of sugar of course are enormous, eight tons of
sugar to an acre, and over seven and five tons for
the second and third growths, or ratoons, as they
are calkd.

But to cap this, comes the question of 'rrigation,
all surface water is brackish, and in consequence
artesian wells have to be sunk in every direction,
and pumped into the flumes to water the fields, the
wells are kept going by steam power, and with
coal at sixteen dollars a ton, it seems difficult to
know how such huge expenses can be met to any
advantage. Some years ago the profits were so

SCENES IN HAWAII.

191

Ith

large that it seemed as thono-h the planters must
make large fortunes in a very few years, and they
did, but when the Germans swept the markets of
the world with their beetroot sugar, the splendid
cane sugar sank into the background, and has con-
tinued to sink ; whether it will rise, is a question ?
I trow not, while the foreign labour clamours for
high wages, and the native coolie is unknown.

The water was often quite hot shortly after
leaving the pumping house, and the servants used
to be able to get hot water a few yards away with-
out trouble ; there seemed to be an immense
quantity of lime also in the water, and if the kettle
was not carefully attended to it would get a solid
incrustation of lime inside, leaving only a few
inches of space for the water. Though sparkling
and clear, it induced great thirst if much was drank,
and there was a story told of a visitor, who drank
the delightfully cold water with great avidity the
first day of his arrival, at night he was still thirsty,
and a large jug of water was left in his room for
him ; sleep fled however, the thirst still continued,
and by morning both jugs were emptied, as well as
the water bottle.

Near our temporary home, was a large native

192

SCENES IN HAWAII.

^rass hut to which an addition had evidently been
intended, as part of the roof and one side were done,
but Hawaiian laziness had stopped just then, and
there seemed little prospect of its being finished.
In the habitable part lived a large native woman,
with a shock of curly white hair, who invariably
wore immense gold rimmed spectacles. She was a
" lady doctor," and appeared to have a large num-
ber of patients judging from the visitors constantly
about the house. Passing there one day I was
greatly edified to see the old dame sitting a la
turque, her spectacles imparting a most learned air
to her countenance, in front of her open fire in the
ground, reading from a large book spread on her
lap to an attentive audience ; it was the Bible !

While at Kekaha, a kind friend sent me a present
of some squid, as a rarity, but 1 did not much care
to try it, so our host suggested my giving it to the
old lady Kahuna, so we walked down to the hut
and found her squatting over the fire of embers, on
which was a tin pot of water ; on asking if anyone
was ill, after receiving her thanks for the squid
she said, " Ai, my husband is sick inside, he no like
cold water to drink, so I make it warm." And she
accordingly dipped her finger in now and then to

ZL^^3^^^

SCENKS IN HAWAII.

193

air

le
ler

;nt

ire

; le

. .

lUt

»ne

ike

ihe

sec if it was the right temperature. I peeped into
the hut and saw a man lying on some dirty mats
with a Httle child nestHng beside him, they both
looked up with their big black eyes but said
nothing, so after looking at the untidy place
heaped up with all kinds of things, I dropped the
mat which served for a door and was glad to breathe
the pure air once more. We left the old dame still
testing the water with her finger !

The same old Native met me one day when we
were both riding ; she had a huge piece of sugar
cane, several feet long, which she was tearing with
her teeth to extract the sweet juice, and on seeing
me she gave her horse a kick, grinned from ear to
ear, and held out her sugar cane with a most cordial
air of invitation to taste. I never cared much for
the sugar cane, it was so tough and fibrous, and
such a lot of trouble to get at the juice, but the
natives young and old are excessively fond of it,
and many white people too.

•

One warm day our kind host asked us to come and
see the far famed Blue Lake, and we accepted the in-
vitation at once, as we knew from hearsay of this
extraordinary phenomenon. We mounted and set

off along a good road, but dusty, until after leaving
13

K^ 221 a^9%tL.MSf .'^\ n.^-issr

194

SCENES IN HAWAII.

tlic actual road itself shaded by inan^oe trees, we
emerged on a broad plain, bounded on one side by
the ocean, and on the other by frovvnin;j^ heights.
The sides of the mountain ran<^e bein.^ in this
place darker, and more bare of foliaj^e than I saw
them anywhere else ; deep gulches however, made
a welcome, break in the red earth and rock, shew-
ing cool and green in their grassy depths. ]

In many parts of Kauai the grass is infested with
a small seed, called " piddy grass," which is most
troublesom;) to anyone walking, as it covers the
lower part of ones garments for several inches,
and can only be got rid of by a violent scraping of
the cloth witii the back of a knife, a brush not
being hard enough.

But here at Kekaha the grass was soft, spongy,
and a blue green colour, delightful to walk or ride
on, and most nourishing feed for animals. On the
plain were many clumps of cocoa-nuts, and herds
of cattle feeding in all directions ; we crossed a
slight depression in the ground, ascended a low'hill,
or rather rise, and before us lay the lovely Blue
Lake.

It lay immediately in front of our path, surround-
ed the wide plain, which formed a bank, on which

SCKNKS IN IIAWAH.

195

were ferns in varied beauty ; the tall cocoa-nut
palnis waved their graceful feathery hei<^dits over
the clear blue water, which seemed to mirror all in
its crystal reflections ; cattle stood enjoying the
cool depths to their knees, the hot sun seemed to
give a deeper, more intense hue to the water even
as we looked, and a simultaneous " How lovely "
came from us both. The shimmering waters of
the broad Pacific on one side, and the rocky coast
beyond, seemed to be a perfect perspective for this
exquisite picture ; after gazing for a long time, we
moved on to see if we could ford the lake, or skirt
round it to reach the " Barking Sands " just beyond.
The lake apparently was but a short distance, and
every moment we expected to get a nearer view of
it ; (a clearer one, could not be,) but as we rode, we
appeared not to get closer, we passed the cocoa
palms, the cattle, but still no water ; suddenly, as
though in a vision, the lovely Blue Lake wcs gone.
We looked, and looked again, but only bare sand met
the eye ; we rode on, completely bewildered, when
our host said, " Now, look back.'' We did so and
there behind us was the crystal lake, mirroring the
palms and the cattle laving the blue waters, but
although, apparently, we must have gone throu^rh

.»P /srim^^ ^^sa^ta^i

VM)

.SOKNK.S l\ HAWAII.

the deepest part, our own senses told us that vvc
had come entirely on dry land.

The Blue Lake of Kekaha was a mirage, and a
mirage as must be seldom seen except in the far
East, and even there one could not meet with a
more complete transformation than was presented
to the eye in those dry and sandy plains in the
space of a few moments time.

No scientific explanation has been given, that I
know of, of this marvel of nature; the soil is strongly
impregnated with salt, and would be very rich if
cultivated, but let us hope that the hand of man
will leave undisturbed the sweet, placid waters of
the pictured Blue Lake.

Quite close at hand was a large plot of ground
which was said to be a most dangerous quick-
sand, the surface was very light in colour, and
much cracked ; we, not believing in the danger, tried
one day to drive across, the mule refused several
places, and was very uneasy, as if the animal was
aware that there was something wrong, but after
a little judicious coaxing, we managed to skirt
the treacherous bog without evil results.

The rocky coast is rugged and stern, but the
spray from the breakers leaping high in the clear

SCKSKS In HAWAII.

197

air, makes a drOi^htful frcsli atinostplicrc, and we
enjoyed wanderiiiL^ about, picking" up the numerous
shells of all kinds which strew the beach.

The " l^arkin^ Sands " are long, low hillocks of
sea sand which, after a period of dry, hot weather,
will, when stami)ed on, give out a curious bark-
ing sound, like that of an angry dog. It is said
that this comes from the sand being composed
of myriads of tiniest shells, which when pressed
with sudden violence make the sound I have
mentioned.

How true this version may be I cannot tell, but
the plains of Kekaha are certainly rich in marvels.
At the extreme end of the pbins another planta-
tion has been taken up, and though the area
cannot he very large the soil is so rirV that the
large crops of sugar will repay the enterprizing
planter ; the isolation will be great, but the situa-
tion a scene of surpassing beauty.

There are many Swedes and Norwegians on
'•.his side of Kauai, and one of the partners in
Kekaha plantation was a Swede, who livid in the
pretty house alluded to, which had a fountain in
front, and when hearing many voices in the
Norse language, the effect is very curious, that

19B

SCKNES IN IIAWAir.

tongue being more nasal and giittral than even
the North German.

We left Kekaha with the' warmest remember-
ances of all the kind welcomes extended to us,
and after stopping to bid adieu to Mrs. Sinclair
and her family, we drove back to EUe-Elle,
where at Waihiava Ranche, we passed a charm-
ing visit of a fortnight, at the white house, n stled
at the foot of the hills.

This ranche was a splendid estate, hundreds of
cattle roaming over the hills and plains ; and most
curious to see were the innumerable flocks of
turkeys which one met everywhere in walks, or
drives, or rides. Originally, I suppose they had
been tame and in small numbers, but gradually
wandering from the home yard, had gone farther
away, and finally brought out their young ones in
all sorts of inaccessible places, for a turkey hen
loves to make her nest where no human hand can
find it. And though we saw flocks of dozens in
each, quite close to the garden fence, yet in the
rockiest paths, or most silent gulches, we would
suddenly hear the peculiar cry of the bird when
disturbed, and they would fly off the trees like
pheasants.

^iFi0^

Scenes in Hawaii.

19D

The house was charming, so large, though only
one story, but a range of pretty little cottage rooms
ran down at right angles with the main building,
connected with each other by a wide verandah.

The rides up the mountain which rose up almost
immediately behind the house were lovely, such a
wnde vista to look out on, bounded only by the sea ;
groves of bamboo, and coffee bushes were in abund-
ance, and solitary trees of koa shewed where this
beautiful wood had once flourished in abundance.

On the sea shore were splendid shells, so richly
marked ; and close by the pools where we looked
for them, were rocky ponds from which salt was
taken in large quantities, dried, and exported, but
I heard it was not so remunerative as to make
the exportation a large business.

Looking up from the " shelling," we were engaged
on one day, I saw the rocks were very high, and
curved round into a horse-shoe shape almost, run-
ning inland several hundred yards ; and at various
distances, some twenty feet from the ground, one
could perceive apertures in the face of the rocks,
almost like open doorways, apparently only reached
by a narrow ledge marked in the rocks.

200

SCENES IN HAWAII.

I asked my companion, one of the charming
daui^hters of our kind hostess of Waihiava what it
meant, and she said tliey were supposed to be
graves of natives, probably chiefs, whose bodies,
after being embahned were carefully deposited in
these caves, and the natives to this day dislike ex-
tremely any stranger to look into them. It seemed
to bring the ^act of the eastern fashion cf putting
the mummies into caves in rocks to one's mind, but
there could scarcely be any connection, one would
think.

Tliere was a collection of native curiosities in the
room of the young master of the house, calabashes,
mats, spears, stone poi pounders, etc., and the most
perfect specimens of tapa cloth I saw while in the
Islands ; great rolls of the cloth had been given to
him, some new, and some old, bright colours and
dull, and some with deep borders would have
looked most quaint as curtains, and one square
piece would have done for a table cloth ; they were
exceptionally fine and well made, and no doubt
before long it will be as difficulty to get tapa cloth
from Hawaii, as it is to get silk from China.

We said good bye to Waihiava and our kind

SCENES IN HAWAII.

201

and gentle liostess, and drove to Koloa one fine
day, where we spent the night with the Judge,
and the following day reached our destination for
a short visit to some friends at Hanamoula, where
indeed the offices of the good Samaritan were called
into requisition, for a violent cold detained one of
our party there for several days and the hospi-
tality extended can never be forgotten.

le
o
d
e
e
e
t
1

Captain L'Orange was a Swede, also his wife,
and we heard many interesting stories of his sea-
faring life before settling in Kauai ; Madame
L'Orange was a notable housekeeper, and she
told me of some quaint dishes customary in her
country, and one day introduced us to beer soup,
and rye bread with carraway seeds in it! also &.
strong liquor made very sweet, flavoured strongly
with aniseed, which is frequentjy given in Sweden
before dinner, to be eaten with a certain kind of
hard dry biscuit as an appetizer.

The linen of the household was the finest, and
most elaborate I ever saw, even the pillow cases
and sheets being most beautifully worked by hand ;
on each large pillow lay a tiny one, with a blue

^02

SCKNKS IN HAWAtt.

covering, and over that a second cover of finest
cambric, with '. large monogram embroidered in
the -^jntre, and edged wiili work to correspond.
It is probable much the same custom as obtains
in Germany, for each young Swedish maiden to
vie with the other for the possession of a large
stack of household linen, which is kept, and added
to, to be in readincsn for the wedcHng day. ^-

We were almost at the end of our journey when
we said a regretful good-bye at Hanamoula, and
that same afternoon reached Kapaa where we spent
a few days at Mr. Dole's before wending our way
to Kilauea, where we found ever/thing in capital
order, and though Sin Fat expressed pleasure at
our return, he two days later, as I have said before,
I firmly believe, walked off with some valuables ;
with celestial cunning, he waited until we had re-
turned, found things all safe, and then expressed
sorrow that he had left the d* or open one night !
No doubt, to make way for a friendly thief ! We
were always so glad we had been enabled to take
the trip round Kauai, thereby enabling us to see
more varieties of life in a short time than we could

■^2?

SCKVKS I\ lIAWAlt.

possibly have (lone in any other way, as the many
difficulties in merely travellin^r about would have
deterred us, but with the phaeton, the mules, and
Johnnie, we were quite independent of steamers
and Staines, and have, amongst our many hapj y re-
c )llections, this last chapter of

SCENES IN HAWAII."

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