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 A TOUR IN CANADA 
 
 By Rev. J. M'COVVAN, 
 
 Cromdale. 
 
 REPRINTED FROM "ELGIN COTJRANT AND COURIER. 
 
 1894. 
 
 
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A TOUR IN CANADA 
 
 "Di 
 
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 By Rev. J. M'COWAN, 
 Cromdale. 
 
 Reprinted FROM "Elgin Courant a«d Courier." 
 
 1894. 
 
Funhased CANAtDlANA 
 
 from the ^ , , ^^__i^^ , 
 
 Chancellor COLLeCTlON 
 
 Richardson QUeeN'S 
 
 Memorial ^ . _. _• ^ 
 
 f«Md UNlVeKSlTT 
 AT klNQSTON 
 
 « - 
 
 ; I 
 
 ■ A 
 
 ONTARIO CANAtDA 
 
 ne EDITH and LORNE PIERCE 
 COLLECTION of CANADIAN A 
 
 ^eens University at Kingston 
 
 
.^ 
 
 « ■ 
 
 1^ 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 P 
 
 I 
 
 n^HE folhnving appeared in the form of articles 
 in the " Elgin Courant and Courier," and, 
 as some of my friends desired to have the ivhole in 
 a connected book form, the Editor very kindly 
 agreed to throw off a few copies from the, nezvspiiper 
 type. This, and the fact that I mi^ht thus have a 
 memetito of a ivjst pleasant trip, accounts for the 
 appearance of the book. I had also the hope that 
 the information it fnrnishes luith regard to ihe 
 cotmtry might be useful to intending colonists or 
 tourists. 
 
 I wish here also to acknowledge in a sentece then 
 extreme kindness and qcnerous hospitality xvhich I 
 experienced on ell hands, and which was specially 
 extended to me by certain of the public gentlemen, 
 notably so by Sir Donald A. Smith, of Montreal. 
 
 J. M' COWAN, 
 
 Cromdale Manse, 
 July, i8g^. 
 
Ff^^, ,i 
 
 H 1 3 1 
 
A TOUR IN CANADA. 
 
 IT had been iri^ desire for years to visit America 
 and witness some of the wonders of the New 
 World for myself, but matters of a personal 
 character, and more imperative in their claims 
 than pleasure-seeking, alwaya interfered. During 
 last winter, however, it was my fortunt to hear 
 ex-Bailie Stuart, of Ijiverness, deliver one of his 
 racy lectures on Canada, and whilti listening to it 
 my old ambition became so inttnsifial tnat I 
 resolved, if possible, to give effect to it in course 
 of the year by crossing the Atlantic. I communi- 
 cated my resolution to some friends, who en- 
 couraged the proposal by offering to occupy my 
 pulpit in my absence. Thus every barrier was 
 removed, and to the clergymen who assisted me I 
 shall ever owe a debt of sincere gratitude foif their 
 valuable services which relieved me fur ten Sun- 
 days, and enabled me to see and to gain an insight 
 into American life, character, and scenery, which 
 -' - ^'•; .able to niyaelf, and which I hope to be 
 ake useful to others. The route selected 
 V' -• iverpool to Montreal. A short run on 
 
 •til way along the soutli bank of the 
 brought me to the platform nearest 
 e the Royal Mail Steamship Parisian 
 — '^ the flpet of floating palaces owned 
 
 by the .^.. ated Allan Line Company— was busy 
 taking on board passengers, luggage, and cargo. 
 There was great excitement on :,he pier, cabbies 
 and porters shouting and hui ying to and fro. 
 The crowd was so dense that no small energy and 
 courage was necessary to push one's way to the 
 gangway which was closely besieged. Half-an- 
 hour was lost before my luggage was safely de- 
 posited in the state-room, and the porter, consider- 
 ably relieved, in return for a tip, respectfully 
 touched his cap and disappeared. After a general 
 survey of the saloon I took up a position on 
 the upper deck, which commanded a complete 
 view of the crowd on the wharf and about the 
 gangway. It was interesting to notice the scenes 
 presented by the different groups, and to listen to 
 
8 
 
 the wIho counsels ami lawh pood-byos that were 
 beinj? exchanpfed below. But witlial there waa a 
 feelinffof intense novelty, almost of amuHement, 
 in the Hcene to one who was neither alarmed ab )ut 
 hiH own affairs nor weighed down with the cares 
 of others. The clang of the bell at last announced 
 that all was ready for starting— i he gangway was 
 hauled ashore, the moorings let off, and the 
 Parisian slowly steamed down the river, and otit 
 Mito the Atlantic. The weather was beautiful, the 
 sun shining out brilliantly, the sea calm as glass, 
 and everytliing giving proniisf^of a most enjoyable 
 f.nd pleasant voyage. In ahout a couple of houra 
 the passengers got fairly stttled down, half 
 acnuainted with each otht^r. I failed to recognise 
 more than one individual out of v.ver two hundred 
 saloon passengers. I accosted hi.n by name, but 
 in the course of conversation it became evident 
 that he did not recognise me, for on being asked 
 if there were any other passengers on board Jiailinff 
 from the beautiful strath t;) which he belonged, he 
 replied, yes, there is one, mentioning my full 
 nameend address, but added, T '>ave not seen him 
 as yet ! I at once changed the conversation, and 
 left my friend to find tr.e out for himself, which 
 he succeeded ii? doing before we reachc^d Montreal. 
 To account for the difficulty, it may be stated that 
 I was dressed as a dayman, \)ut the change of garb 
 being got over, and the mutual recognitions being 
 gone through, we enjoyed each other's company as 
 far as Toronto. At our first dinner everybody 
 had a glance at those who were to be their fellow- 
 passengers for the next eight or nine days ; and if 
 an opinion may be expressed after c day at 
 sea, the general impression was that _ it 
 would be difhcult to bring together a nicer 
 lot of people. Among them were Sir John Thom- 
 son, Prime iMinister of Canada, returnit.'? from the 
 eray capital of France, where he had been acting 
 as one of the British arbitratoi's on the Behring 
 Sea question ; Sir Charles and Lady Tupper, 
 with their son, the Honourable 0. H. Tupper, 
 the energetic young iMinister of Marine and 
 iFisheries, Mr iDotiglas, Private Secretary to the 
 Prime Minister, and six delegates chosen from 
 among the practical farmers of the United King- 
 dom— thre*^ being English, two Scotch, and one 
 Irish. The notabiliti3s of the saloon were rather 
 a mixed community. Military talent waa 
 
 t 
 
 i 
 
 
a 
 
 ^ 
 
 rtprfsfiited !)>• (Jeneral Simpson ; science and 
 literature, by I'rofo.-sor M'Lellan and a Cambridge 
 doR ; medicine, by a Scutch, a Canadian, and an 
 Irish doctor ; law, by an English barrister a.,d a 
 solicitor from Chicago; divinity in ita different 
 forms was ubly supported by more than a dozen 
 clergymen of different denominations. There 
 were Canadian statesmen, a millionaire, an 
 eccentric Jew, a "corporate" Hollander, and 
 several gallant (?) American Colonels, &c., &c. 
 
 On board ship one comes in contact with men 
 of every profession and of the most varied attain- 
 ments, with men who have risen from the ranks 
 by their own ability and energy to positions of 
 honour, trust, and independence, as well as with 
 meri who have been born great, all bent on finding 
 a wider scope in the New World for the hampered 
 and restricted sphere they were condemned to at 
 home. But on h' .r ' there are no society restric- 
 tions, and any '' - .vback to a free exchange of 
 sentiment betw.en the ])assengers must be gene- 
 rally attributed to the state of the weather, which 
 has a much morn degenerating influence on the 
 individual passenger than the restricted laws 
 of sociality. The weather acts upon the ocean, 
 the ocean upon the ship, and the shi') upon the 
 most of Hi, inhabitants, and so, according to 
 Newton's ''laws of nature," there is necessarily 
 a reaction for every action, so in this case the re- 
 action occurs, and it is a matter of regret that it 
 develops into jealousy, hatred, and suspicion 
 with regard to the party who has resisted or suc- 
 cumbed tc that disastrous epidemic which rages 
 amor.g those who have not gained their sea legs 
 and their sea stomachs— that mal de mcr which 
 one cf the steerage passengers retidered into intel- 
 ligible language by stating "It was jest puttin' 
 yer han' doon yer throat an' pu'in yer stomach up. 
 an' houldin' it ticht in yer haun before yer een.' 
 But, as the fates would have it, our passage was 
 extremely good, and after a couple of days' ex- 
 perience on the dark blue sea there was no neces- 
 sity for resorting to such disagreeable measures for 
 relieving: the feelings. 
 
 The Parisian sailed into Lough Foyle early on 
 the second rnorning, and we had a prospect of old 
 Ireland, which looked as fair and as green as it is 
 represented to look. Here th steamer renamed 
 at anchor off Moville till the mails -arrived, and 
 

 a 
 
 were placed on board about two o'clock on Friday 
 afternoon. In the interval many passengers went 
 ashore in small sailing crafts, and had their first 
 experience on an Irish jaunting car by a drive to 
 Green Castle. Here Sir John Thompson and the 
 Hon. C. H. Tupper met Colonel Stevenson, who 
 was spending a few weeks in the neighboui hood, 
 and there renewed a pleasant acquaintanceship 
 which they had formed in Canada a few years 
 before. About three o'clock in the afternoon the 
 powerful engines of the Parisian were again in 
 motion, the propeller started its revolutions, a^nd 
 soon the noble ship was ploughing fclie broad 
 Atlantic and sailing straight into the setting sun. 
 Towards dusk land faded from our view, the 
 ground swell began to rise, and the vessel to roll. 
 The dinner table was not so crowded, and, indeed, 
 before bedtime two-thirds of the passengers were 
 busily engaged " feeding tha whales." as the 
 phrase goes ! Standing alone on the deck, and 
 under circumstances calculat'^J to stimulate 
 thought, a variety of subjects for contemplation 
 rose before my mind. Before us, in whatever 
 direction the eye might roaui, spread "old ocean's 
 grey and melancholy waste," inviting serious 
 reflection on its vastness — the perils associated 
 with its navigation, and the capabilities of human 
 ingenuity in conducting such wonderful and 
 speedy communication over its bosom between the 
 Old and the New World. On Sunday, according 
 to a standing rule, divine service was conducted 
 on board, after the form of the Church of Eng- 
 land. It is difficult to imagine anything more 
 impressive and solemn than a religious service at 
 sea. Isolated from the rest of the world as 
 effectually, for the time being, as if we belonged 
 to a different sphere ; tossed about on the wide 
 expanse of the mighty ocean, far away from the 
 familiar sound of the church bells— to feel that 
 even here He who holds the waters in the hollow 
 of His hand, and who directs the planets in their 
 courses, that we are able to unite in prayer, praise, 
 and adoration of the Great Creator with all our 
 fellow-Christians throughout the world — that here, 
 even, we may carry in thought to the throne of 
 grace all whoare nearest and dearest tons, though 
 in the body wc are far away from thern. Here 
 we are bound by the ties of a common, a truly 
 spiritual, religion. How appropriate the singing 
 
I 
 
 of the hymn — 
 
 I-ord, Avhom winds and seas nhay, 
 Gui(Je us through our watery way ; 
 In the hollow of Thy hand 
 Hide and bring us safe to land. 
 
 At the close of the service a collection was 
 made in aid of the Mariner's Orplianage, at Liver- 
 pool. It amounted to over five pounds. A 
 concert for the sau ^ purpose realised some 
 twenty-three pounds, and, including i.itermediate 
 and steerage, a total sum of thirty-five pounds 
 was raised. Sir Charles Tupper presided at the 
 concert, and paid a deservedly high compliment 
 to the captain and the officers of the Parisian for 
 their attention and courte-sy. He also referred to 
 the splendid qualities of the ship. Sir .John 
 Thompson moved a vote of thanks to the Chair- 
 man and all concerned, ending with a warm 
 eulogy on Captain Ritchie, remarking upon his 
 popularity and attention to duty, praise which 
 was most enthusiastically applauded by the 
 aiidience. An exhibition of Canadian lime-light 
 views was given by Mr Mills, a Welsh artist. 
 The entertainment was most instructive, and 
 heartily appreciated by all. But, perhaps*, th^ 
 most enjoyable evening to all of us, as far as I 
 could judge, was spent in dancing on deck, an 
 amusement in which nearly all the passengers 
 joined. Among the many means of affording 
 ex'Tcise and sources of amusement were quoits, 
 skittles, chess, draughts, whist, euchre, &e., &c. 
 Some of the passengers, comfortably wrapped 
 with rugs, lounged on deck chairs, and read 
 almost the whole day long, the meal-bell alone 
 being effective in tearing them away from some 
 interesting volume, lent from the ship's library. 
 Promenading the deck was a most popular and 
 delightful mode of takingr exercise when the 
 weather was favourable. The smoking-room was 
 the favourite resort of all lovers of the weed, and 
 of all who wished to indulge in the games of 
 whist and euchre. 
 
 Early one morning the wonders of the great 
 deep appeared quite close to us in the shape of a 
 flock, or what the nautical man would call "a 
 school," of whales spouting and rolling over, 
 apparently in play. By miil-day of the same day 
 land was supposed to be sighted, amidst excite- 
 ment, but time proved it to be an imtnense ica- 
 
 m 
 
6 
 
 1 
 
 berg. We were now apparently fairly come into 
 the region of the icebergs, for in every direction 
 they might be seen, varying in size from small 
 blocks to great moimtains. On a closer approach 
 to one, which was particularly grand, it seemed to 
 resemble a large fortification, with battlements, 
 turrets, and walls all complete. It presented a 
 magnificent spectacle. The darkish tint on the 
 south side gradually disappeared as we neared it, 
 to be replaced by rainbow colours of the most 
 dazzling brilliancy, which wavered and sparkled 
 like immense gems set in a mountain of silver. 
 But the beauty of nature's transformation scenes 
 as exhibited in the iceberg must be seen to be 
 either enjoyed or understood. The weather while 
 we were in this quarter was bitterly cold, though 
 the sun shone brilliantly from an unclouded sky. 
 After passing the icebergs land was sighted, and 
 soon the Parisian was ploughing alongside Belle 
 Isle, which looked to me to be very bald and 
 barren. The only inhabitants are the lighthouse 
 keepers, who telegraph all ships to Quebec, so that 
 our approach was announced there a eouple of 
 jdays before our arrival. Passing Belle Isle the 
 strait of the same name was sailed through, with 
 Newfoundland on the one hand and Labrador on 
 the other. After entering the Gulf of St Lawrence 
 land disappeared again till the island of Anticosti 
 was sighted. The first stop was at Rimouski, 
 where a tender delivered and received mails and 
 passengers. This would be about seven o'clock on 
 Friday morning, a morning that proved to be 
 foggy and drizzling. But it cleared up 
 into a beautiful warm day with bright sun shining 
 overhead. As the Gulf of the St Lawrence 
 narrows, and as we ascend farther up the majestic 
 river of the same name, the scenery on either 
 bank, which is very fine, comes into view. The 
 wood-covered hills slope gradually dowi to the 
 water's edge, and here and there small white 
 villages make their appearance. The many 
 islands dotted all over the river give to it a most 
 romantic appearance. As we approached Quebec 
 the scenery becomes really splendid to look at. 
 But the passengers were so excited with prepara- 
 tion for landing that few of them devoted much of 
 their time in the enjoyment of it. 
 
 There were 661 passengers on board ; of these 
 201 were saloon, 172 intermediate, and 228 
 
 i 
 
steerage. The majority of the hitter were Scandi- 
 navians, the remainder being Scotch, English, 
 and Irish. TliesH all brought on board with them 
 provision snpplj' sufficient fur the whole voyage. 
 Though the sliip's fare is everything that could be 
 desired, somehow the *" )0>1 has earned a reputation 
 which exists only m imagination. A careful 
 study of the difference in fare and comfort 
 between the steerage and intermediate should 
 convince all who car possibly afford the latter to 
 book by it. The state or bedrooms of the inter- 
 mediate are exceptionally comfortable, and, except 
 in luxurious fittings, are almost equal to the first 
 class, while the food and attendance are but very 
 little behind. The fare of the intermediate is 
 seven and that of the steerage five guineas. The 
 steerage passenger has to provide himself with 
 mattress, blankets, and utensils for his food, and 
 when the total sum is deducted from the inter- 
 mediate fare of seven guineas the difference is so 
 small that it is more than counterbalanced by the 
 advantages derived. It may be mentioned thafc 
 those taking money should do so by draft or in 
 gold. But in no case should paper money b& 
 taken, as the discount on getting it exchanged is 
 rather heavy. The purser on board exchanges 
 money, but even he discounts paper money. Gold 
 and silver he exchanges at par— that is without 
 charging for the exchange ; but English gold i» 
 exchangeable all over America at par. English 
 and American money is good on board ship, but 
 intending emigrants shjuld provide themselvfs 
 before starting with all necessary trifles, such as 
 ink, pen, paper, tobacco, &c. 
 
 Altogether the voyage across was most enjoy- 
 able, and will ever remain a subject for pleasant 
 recollections and sweet memories. The latter 
 part of it was simply delightful, and it was with 
 genuine regret that we parted at Quebec. 
 
 Quebec. 
 
 This fine city of 80,000 or 100,000 inhabitants 
 spreads itself out along the base, and also occupies 
 the summit of a lofty crag rising almost from the 
 water edge of the St Lawrence river at a point 
 where that river is comparatively narrow. It has 
 thus a commanding and magnificent situation, 
 and, from the strong fortresses and powerful 
 
8 
 
 I 
 
 liattVments wliich protect it, may be regarded as 
 hulding the key to Canada. Its historical interest 
 IS so grf-at, and its natural beauties so attractive, 
 that it is impossible to describe the city except in 
 the most general manner. My object is not so 
 much to give detailed descriptions as to give 
 passing glimpses sufficient to arouse the interest 
 (.f the public, and to cause them to bestow a little 
 attention upon the interests and the Ueautii a of 
 the New World. 
 
 As far back as 1535 the rugged cliffs of Quebec 
 afforded shelter to the first European— Jacques 
 Cartier— who, after braving the dangers of the 
 deep, steered his craft up the river and landed 
 there. The few huts thereafter erected soon 
 developed into a settlement. Then the French 
 fur companies, recognising its natural advantages, 
 established it as an important trading post. As it 
 gradually increased in commercial enterprise, the 
 fortihcations were enlarged and strengthened till 
 Quebec became the iinpiegnable strong hold of 
 Canada, and so remained for a period of 224 years, 
 when It was taken by the English under the 
 leade ship of General Wolfe. 
 
 The lumber trade that i.-^ carried on at 
 t^uebecis enormous, consfquently the river and 
 wharves are particularly crowded and busy with 
 thesti^amersand ciafts of all nations ; while on 
 land the railways are equally thronged, so that on 
 ail sides are indicatiims of a prosperous and thriv- 
 ing population. On landing the visitor 
 should go direct to Cape Diamond to receive 
 his hrst iinprei-sions of his surroundings. From 
 this cape the view of the St Lawrence forms a 
 superb panorama. An extensive rangw of moun- 
 tain, forest, river, stream, and valley, unsurpassed 
 in any country, stretches out befoie the eyes. 
 Ihe Lower Town is the business and commercial 
 <iuarter with nothing of spec al interest except the 
 irregular and narrow streets, and the ancient 
 style of the architecture of many of the houses, 
 lassmg through tliis locality one feels as if he 
 were treading on a strange and weird land. It is 
 entirely distinct in every feature compared with 
 the Upper Town with its substantial blocks, 
 splendid public buildings, thriving schools, com^ 
 tortable hotels, and its large and well-filled 
 <Jonvt nts. 
 
 The tourist should visit the Chapel and Convent 
 
9 
 
 of St Ursula, where many valuable prtiiitiiigs are 
 to be seen and religiously laid up. Here, too, are 
 deposited many holy relies ; as, for example, the 
 body of St CI eiT) en t brought from the Catacombs 
 of Rome, the supposed skull of St Justus, what 
 purports to be a bit of tlie Holy Cross, and a pare 
 of the Crown of Thorns. In the English 
 Cathedral, which is built after the Ruman style 
 of architecture, lie near the pulpit the remains of 
 the Duke of Richmond, a Governor-General of 
 Canada, who died in 1819, as indicated by a mural 
 tablet on the wall. The wall is also adorned by 
 the tattered colours of the 69th R^^giintnt. After 
 having seen the Basilica and the Seminary C.iapel 
 the Grand Battery should be visited. Here fifty 
 mounted guns command the entrance to the 
 harbour, whde the out'ook on mountain and 
 vaU^, 18 very Hne. Thv citadel is approached by 
 the Chain and Dalhousie Gattrs, where the visitor 
 IS brought directly opposite the Officers' Quarters, 
 in which Princess Louise was accommodated, and 
 received such a c(ndial and enthusiastic reception. 
 
 Thecemeterie.^are woithynf notice,especiallvthe 
 Protestant one on Mount Herinon, where among 
 the manj^ beautiful monuments ther*^ is one com- 
 memorating the sad death of the immigrants on 
 board the burning ship Montreal. 
 
 But for extent and grandeur, perhaps, the view 
 from the Flagstaff Bastion, which is 350 feet 
 above water level, is uwequalled. From here the 
 mighty Sc Lawrence is sten in all its majesty 
 sweeping down towards the ocean. There, too, is 
 seen standing boldly forth in unclouded beauty 
 the village of Beaup ort, the Island of Orleans, and 
 Point Levis. To the west are the famous blood- 
 stained Plains of Abraham, the scene of the ever- 
 ir.emorablo battle which transferred Canada to the 
 British Crown. On the Plains a monument has 
 been erected with the following inscription: — 
 ' This pillar was erected by the British Armyin 
 Canada A. D. 18«, His Excellency Lieutenant 
 General Sir Benjamin d'Urban being commander 
 of the forces, to replace that erected by Governor 
 General Lord Aylmer, in 1832, which was broken 
 and defaced, and is deposited beneath." The 
 1 alls of Montmorency, with the natural steps 
 should not be omitted, as the scenery about is ex- 
 quisite The St Foyand St Louis roads afford 
 splendid drives, lined as they are on either side by 
 
 S0* 
 
i 
 
 10 
 
 beautiful villas and handsome mansions atandinj? 
 
 the driv^ '^'h"''"^?^ ^'"""^■^- Here and there 
 !lm» r. \' through ave.nies of trees, graceful 
 elms stately pme, and fine birch. The trees 
 
 roldlv^'"^''/"""^"^ ^"^ f^^'«^« ""fc across the 
 roadway, and form a beautiful and pleasing shade 
 
 Colonel rTT'-^/- ^^'^ residence^and f?rm 0? 
 Colonel Rhodes deserve special mention. Around 
 
 reign, (jrieenhouses, hothouses, &c., with conser- 
 vatories and vineries, abound.' The b'auty and 
 the intoxicating perfumes of the flowers of the 
 garden are most pleasing. Equally rich and 
 abundant are the strawberries, glapes, pears and 
 oranges wh.ch are reared here to%r'eat pStfon. 
 
 This llnfi ""^H^ ^^^ ^'^ ^'^^^ expense 
 ihis gentleman does not confine himself 
 to the cultivation of flowers and fruit alone?but 
 he raises cattle for breeding a..d show purposes 
 The drive by the St Louis road is altogetK most 
 
 dn,^«^f.T\^T'*^ '""^'"^^ ^^'•- An extended 
 drive to Lake Beauporf. and the Shrine and Falls 
 
 ?old Tk'J'v'^- '^^Al ^^'u «'>ht-seer a hundred- 
 told. Ihe Parish Church of Beauoort erenhpd 
 about three hundred vears n^rn la. ' ^^^^^^ 
 I-,,, ^u^ r> """"'*'<^» years ago, was consecrated 
 by the Pope to St Anne. To this holy shrine 
 thousands of pilgrims repair-often as a penance 
 or in discharge of vows. The pil^rimLes tlw^ 
 
 testal day of the celebrated saint. The crowds of 
 plgnms that resort thither are so large that, for 
 the comfortable accommodation of the wor- 
 shippers, a hne church has been erected wirhin 
 recent years. In the building are placed thou- 
 sands of crutches, left in day? gone by by tho e 
 
 S"er mfkd'P'h'^..^'"^^-'* "^ ^'^^'^ lamLeLes ^r 
 other maladies by the saint. A finger-bone of fh« 
 
 saint herself is supposed to be depoS s a 
 
 sacred rehc, in the sanctuary ; and o° kissing i? 
 
 world y evils and misfortunes are "aid o vanish a 
 
 once from the devotee, while similar results a?e 
 
 c ^tZs '°Th '"h " ''^'■^^''' ^^- "" the piL of 
 crutches. Ihe despairing are often herH fill...* 
 
 with new hope, while the feeble and the faint ire 
 daily restored to health and strength. 
 
 1 here is nob a more interesting town than 
 Quebec in the New World. In and a?rnd the 
 city almost every building, crag, and knoU Ts asso^ 
 
11 
 
 elated with Home stirring battle or aiege chro- 
 nicled in comparatively modern history. The 
 French element is largely prevalent, while 
 France's ancient laws most generally prevail. 
 There is abundant interest to detain the tourist in 
 this city for a week, and, after having seen all 
 that is to be seen in the town and neighbourhood, 
 I think he will be impressed with the thought, as 
 I was, that no more fitting entrance to the glorious 
 and prosperous Dominion that lies beyond it could 
 be imagined than this beautiful, this historic, this 
 quaint, this fairy-like, and romantic City of 
 Quebec. 
 
 From Quebec to Montreal by steamer is a much 
 more interestijig and enjoyable journey than going 
 by rail. The view along both banks of the noble 
 river is beautiful in the extreme. The country 
 generally is low and fertile, partly wooded and 
 partly cultivated, and ever and again as the 
 steamer |)lou^hs her way upwards we come upon 
 the openings of new rivers that are rolling down 
 their waters to join the main stream. French 
 settlements are seen to follow in close succepsion, 
 nestling themselves cl(j-e along the water edge. 
 The villages are quaint, clean looking, and 
 picturesque in the highest degree, while con- 
 spicuous in each are the Roman Catholic Church 
 steeples, surrounded with their educational and 
 charitable institutions. A great number of city 
 people resort to these villages during the summer, 
 and altogether from what I saw of them they 
 appear to be in a most prosperous condition. 
 From information received I learned that the 
 chief industries are the wood-mill manufactories 
 and the lumber exportation trade. The trees are 
 sledged down in the winter, and shipped in spring 
 to all parts of the world. To the scattered houses 
 that connect the villages patches of agricultural 
 land are attached, and the woods extending to far 
 inland are used for grazing purposes. On the 
 north side the valley opens out as we proceed 
 upward, and the hills recede further and further 
 into the background. The cultivated land here is 
 subdivided up into the small sections characteristic 
 of French farming, the result of continual 
 subdivision of bequeathed properties. But you 
 ask do all these rural families maintain themselves 
 on these small patches of land ? The answer, as 
 far as I could find out, is no, for, when not engaged 
 
12 
 
 m cultivating tho soil, many of the men are 
 employed in the lumber mills at home or in the 
 brick factories in the States and elsewhere, while 
 both the women and the children, when not 
 engaged in cod-fishing for the markets-, weave 
 U.eir own wool and make their own clothing. 
 Jims they manage to live in tolerable comfort and 
 to enjoy certain luxuries, while not a few have 
 om^iderable f..rtunes. The people are mostly all 
 Irench or of French d ^scent, speak that language, 
 and manage their affairs according to French 
 Jaw. 1 he villages increase in size and importance 
 towards Montreal, at which the steamer arrived 
 after a twelve hours' run from Quebec. 
 
 Montreal. 
 
 In approaching this splendid town one is at once 
 struck vvitti the commercial enterprise and import- 
 ance of the first city of the Dominion. The lone 
 wharves, stretching for miles, are so crowded, and 
 the rivers so busy with crafts and steamers of all 
 sizes and of all nationalities, running in everv 
 
 direction, that landing without collision or accident 
 requires the most careful and skilful handlintr It 
 IS almost incredible that the small Indian village 
 \iS "^A^/ «;hen v,s,ted by Jacques Cartierin 
 1555 could develop into the imposing M(mtreal of 
 to-day Nv.th Its 250.000 inhabitants. It is situated 
 on an island formed by the St Lawrence and 
 Ottavva rivers, with a history which is eventful 
 arid interesting. The following descriptic. "r 
 Hochelaga is from the pen of Cartier himself :- 
 
 "It is placed near, and, as it were, joined to a 
 great mountain, very fertile on the top, from 
 which you may see very far. The town is round 
 encompassed about with timber, with three 
 rampires, one within another, framed like a sharp 
 spire, but laid across above. The middlemost of 
 these IS made and built in a direct line, but per- 
 pend.cular. The lampiresare framedand fashioned 
 with pieces of timber laid along the ground verv 
 well and cunningly j „ned after their fashion ; this 
 enclosure is in height about two yards : it hath 
 but one gate or entry thereat, which is shut with 
 piles, stakes, and bars ; over it, and also in many 
 parts of the wall, th.-re be places to run alone and 
 ladders to get up, all full o'f stones, for tii. dffen^ 
 of It. There are in the town about fifty houses, 
 
 ■1 
 
 -4. 
 
 X'. 
 
I 
 
 13 
 
 each 50 pacts long, and 15 or 20 broad, built all of 
 wood, covered over with the baric of the wood, as 
 broad as any board, and cunningly joined together. 
 Within are many rooms, lodging^*, and chambers. 
 In the midst of every ouh there is a great court, in 
 the middle whereof they make their Hres. They 
 live in common together, then do the husbands, 
 wives, and children, each one, retire to their 
 chambers. They hive, also, in the tops of their 
 houses certain garrets, wherein they keep their 
 corn to lUHko their bread. The people are given 
 to no other exercise, but only to husbandry and 
 fishing for their existence." 
 
 Having satisfied himself as to the nature and ex- 
 tent of the village, Cartier was conducted by a 
 native escort to the top of the mountain, and from 
 Its summit he descried an immense extent of 
 lovely country, interspersed with islands, hills, 
 woods, and rivers, which filled him with feelings 
 of pleasure and joy. In loyalty to his sovereign, 
 he named the elevation on which he stood Mount 
 Real— Mount Rojral— which name has since been 
 extended to the city. 
 
 Cartier was evidently well received by the 
 natives, who, in exchange for knives, beads, and 
 other small trinkets, supplied him freely with fish 
 and maize. Even in those early days Hochelaga 
 claimed some importance, but nothing special has 
 been mentioned in connection with it till 1611, 
 when a trading post was established there by 
 Champlain. Buildings were then erected, and, in 
 order to test tho fertility of the soil, some of the 
 ground was cleared and seeds sown. Champlain 
 held conferences with many of the Indian tribes 
 who had come to interview him near the Lachine 
 Rapids, and thereafter he returned to Quebec. 
 Again, after a lapse of two years, he revisited 
 Hochelaga, and penetrated farther into the 
 country. No permanent establishmwnt, however, 
 was attempted on the island of Montreal till 1640, 
 when a Society of thirty wealthy individuals was 
 formed in Paris for the purpose of building fortifi- 
 cations to protect the colony against the Indian 
 ravages, and for promoting religion therein. The 
 King of France approved of the scheme, and 
 Maisonneuve, a soldier of distinguished piety, 
 knightly bearing, brave as a lion, and devout as a 
 monk, was chosen as leader of the expedition. 
 There was also secured to accompany him the ser- 
 
 .=*' 
 
14 
 
 vices of a pioua and virtuous wottian, Jeanne 
 Mance, to take charKO of tlin sick and superintend 
 the distribution of supplies. Slio was encouraged 
 in t\w enterprise by the (^ueen of Austria 
 aiKl other distinguished ladies ; and one 
 of these noble ladies provided her with means 
 Buthcient for the erection of an hosiiital. The 
 expedition being ready, two vessels sailed from 
 the fair c(jast of France, one bearing the leader, a 
 priest, and twenty-five men, the other Made- 
 nf.oiselle Mance, a missionary, and twelve men, so 
 that with the opening of the navigation of the St 
 Lawrence in 1642 th(:y took possession of Montreal 
 on the 18th day of May by the celebration of 
 solemn mass. 
 
 During the first few years the colony was con- 
 stantly harassed by tlie Indians, and managed 
 only to subsist with difficulty. The colonists w-ere 
 reinforced by one hundred soldiers from France in 
 1652, but this did not bring peace and prosperity 
 
 f? j^j "•'^' ^"^ ^^^ '""■'^'^ sanguinary cold- 
 bloodfi'd skirmishes were constantly engaged in till 
 about 1700, when a great peace was concluded be- 
 tvveen the Iroquois on the one hand and the Hurons 
 Ottawas, «&c., on the other. But notwithstanding 
 this treaty, fortifications continued to be erected 
 aboiit the town, and whatever protection they 
 might afford against the Indians, they were ill- 
 calculated to withstand artillery, as was proved 
 some hfty years later. 
 
 After the capture of Quebec in 1760 attention 
 was directed to Montreal as the last stronghold 
 occupied by the French in America. Hence it 
 became indissohibly connected with the thrilling 
 events of the conquest. The British plan of 
 campaign was to hem Montreal in on all sides. 
 Mow this had been successfully carried out, and 
 how, after Levis had fired his last musket and 
 Vandruil had exhausted all his powers of 
 deplomacy, there followed a capitulation which 
 transferred to Great Britain tha fairest colony of 
 ± ranee, are facts too well known to be enlarged 
 upon here. It is unfortunate that the exact spot 
 where the articles of surrender were signed has 
 never been definitely ascertained, and that more 
 than one place is left to claim this honour or 
 disgrace. 
 
 At this time Montreal was a fairly large and 
 important town, protected by rampart, ditch, and 
 
 I 
 .V 
 
15 
 
 HO 
 
 Citadel— tlio battf-riftH of thn latter coniinandinjf 
 the streets froin one end to the otlier. It con- 
 tained many first-rate churohes, convents, and 
 other public bmldinRH, the most substantial beintr 
 the officers quarters and the palace of the 
 (jrovernor. 
 
 The Sb Lawrence about 1805 was not navigable 
 as far up as Montreal by vessels carrying more 
 than three hundred tons, so that its foreign trade 
 was conducted by small b.rges and crafts, but 
 now ocean steamers of 5000 tons charge and dis- 
 charge cargoes on the wharves. The turning point 
 
 'u .•',o?r^'\"^''*' 'i'«fc»ry f^f the city happened 
 about 1850, when the now floating palace.^ of the 
 Allan Line and other steamship companies began 
 ^u ^^H ^^'''V ,«PP^ara"ce in the St Lawrence. 
 1 hen followed the construction of the Lat^hine and 
 other canals; while the intiodnction of the Grand 
 Irunk llailway had a powerful effect in making 
 the city what it truly is-a busy, healthy, pros- 
 perous, and flourishing commercial centre, and 
 destined for even greater things in the near future. 
 Its importance may be gathered from the fact that 
 no less than ten steamship companies are engaged 
 in carrying on its trade by sea; ard the inland 
 trafhc conducted by canals, rivers, and lakes is 
 immense ; while it is the centre of seven railway 
 hnes, chiefly controlled by the Grand Trunk and 
 Canadian Pacific Railway Companies, Vast grain 
 elevators, manufacturing establishments, and the 
 far-reaching grain, cattle, and provision trade of 
 the great west and north-west, bid fair to make 
 Montreal the rival of New York. Practically, the 
 city 19 divided into two parts, and inhabited bv 
 two nationalities, which live entirely apart, unless 
 in a few isolated cases, the English and the French 
 1 he western part of the city is altogether English- 
 speaking, and the majority of them are Scotch. In 
 none of the colonies, however, have both English 
 and Scotch men made more of their opportunities 
 than in Montreal. The eastern portion is purely 
 ^rench. They are a hard-working, thrifty, and 
 honest race. The old people do not speak English 
 but the rising generation speak both languages 
 equally well. Among them is a great deal of 
 hoarded wealth, but, unlike most people, they ara 
 extremely particular how they invest their mon«v 
 Although very hospitable and fond of society ' 
 18 dithcult to gain access into the inner French 
 
16 
 
 circles; b„t otiCH admitted there ia found an 
 auiomit of culture, grace, and reHiifn>ent that 
 fturprinert one. Ihe conversationul gift, is nltnost 
 universal, the newest topicH of literature and arfc 
 are diHcusHed, and the ladies are familiar with all 
 the political questiouH of the day. Junt a«« the 
 east aiul the weHt-the French and the English are 
 exciu.sivo of each other, ho the south or Irish 
 quarter is exclusive of both. It is known as 
 Urittintown, ami comprises a little world of its own. 
 with shops, factories, schools, churches, &c. 
 Ihe Irish take a high position in business, 
 politics and society Altogether, the inhabitants 
 ot Montreal are highly cultured, while the lising 
 young men possess a dash of manly independence 
 that promises well for future usefulness 
 
 M(jntreal has two hundred miles of streets and 
 anes, grand specimens of architecture, wealthy 
 banks, substantial public buildings, hospitals, 
 charitable institutions, splendidly-equipped uni- 
 versities, colleges and schools, fine club housfs, 
 palatial private residences, public squares, parks 
 
 w'n^^'Ti ^T''i'' .^"^ beautiful chuVchJ: 
 Among the churches is the famous Notre Dame. 
 secorid in America only to the Cathedral at 
 Mexico, and intended to be a representative of tho 
 rsoire Dame in Pans. Its tower is 227 feet high 
 and contains a peal of eleven 
 bells. The. "Gros Bourdon" in the 
 wehtern towor is reckoned among the five heaviesb 
 bells in the world. It weighs 24,780 pounds, is 
 
 mou h. The nave of the church, including the 
 
 TZ m^'f'\ ^^°. ^''' l^"^' 80 feet ^high! 
 and 69 feet wide, exclusive of the side 
 ais es, which measure 25i feet each, while the 
 ri^ ""'^ J'^f feet thick. The building will 
 accommodate from 12 to 15.000 persons. It stands 
 conspicuous, and m the tourist's mind forms a 
 inost notable landmark. The most historical and 
 interesting sq.iare is that of Champ de Mars. 
 vvhichwas a famous scene of promenade in th4 
 old Irench days and. with the exception of the 
 lains of Abraham, there is no other piece of 
 fj"n 1'? '"America which has been so successively 
 trodden by the armies of so many di(ferenb 
 nationalities in martial array. 
 
 «nn!f?*'^^i '^ specially advanced in out-door 
 sports, rod, gun, bicycle, football, golf, and 
 
 I 
 
 3 
 
 4i 
 
 iffr 
 
1 found an 
 ;n'ent tlnib 
 
 "t ii ftltllDSt 
 
 ire and art 
 iur with all 
 FuHt as the 
 Kriplish are 
 li or Irish 
 
 known as 
 
 I of its own, 
 
 rciies, &o. 
 
 businpSH, 
 
 nhabitantd 
 
 the lisinpf 
 
 lependence 
 
 I. 
 
 streets and 
 9, wealthy 
 
 hohpitala, 
 ipped uni- 
 ul> housfH, 
 res, parks, 
 
 chnrch«f<. 
 itre Dame, 
 hedral at 
 itiveof the 
 feet highj 
 eleven 
 
 in the 
 e heaviest 
 pounds, is 
 ter at the 
 uding the 
 Jet high, 
 the side 
 while the 
 ling will 
 It stands 
 I forms a 
 •rical and 
 le Mars, 
 Je in the 
 •n of the 
 
 piece of 
 
 3cessively 
 
 d'(ferenb 
 
 out-door 
 ipolf, and 
 
 ^SK 
 
 17 
 
 lacroHse— the iiHtion«l game. During the winter 
 skating is the most popular amusement, and the 
 gaieties of the season are only surpiswed by thosM 
 of St Petersburg. It is extremely favoured with 
 fine summer ret irts and beautiful drives in the 
 neighbourhood— the most delightful drive bt-ing to 
 Mount Royal through tlu- Mountain Park. A 
 winding road of easy ascent leads up the mouu- 
 iHin, with n ceaseless stream of carriagpn ajid 
 pedestruiiis, to the summit, from which u view en- 
 chanting in beauty and variety is obtained. On a 
 clear day the view is magnificent, several hundred 
 feet bulow is spread out a gorgeous panorama of 
 ever-varying beauty, and affording splendid and 
 attra<;tive views of the Canadian Metropolis and 
 the Mohh' river of the north, witli its ceaseles-s 
 trattic, the Victoria Bridge, .tnd the ft)ain of th^ 
 Lachine Rapids. The broad landscape is dotted 
 with comfortable homesteads, well-stocked and 
 highly-cultivated farms, broad belts of forest 
 extending htre and there, and looming up like a 
 mighty shadow in the distance, the far-oflf hills o 
 Vermont tower their h.ad, while windin, 
 through the valley the majestic St Lawrence toUk 
 onward to l.he f'cean. Handsome private dwel- 
 lings, with beautifully laid out grounds, all con- 
 tribute to the beauty and variety of a scene never 
 to be forgotten. 
 
 It may be interesting to state that the St 
 Lawrence river is 1500 miles long, and drains an 
 area of 330,000 square miles. Between Montreal 
 and Quebec it varies from one to two miles in 
 breadth, while a short distance below Quebec it 
 varies from ten to thirty-five miles in width. The 
 tide rises fourteen feet at Quebec, but it ceases to 
 be appreciable at the lower end of Lake St Peter. 
 Among the few ports in America which the Great 
 Eastern was able to visit on account of its great 
 draught is that of Quebec, and between here and 
 Montreal the depth is nowhere less than thirty 
 feet. The distance from Montreal to the Atlantic 
 Ocean is nearly 1000 miles. The ity is 250 miles 
 above salt water, and it is 315 miles nearer to 
 Liverpool than the town of IShw York. The river 
 water is utilised for all city purposes. 
 
 All the St Lawrence rapids are within ea 7 
 reach of Montreal, but especially the famous 
 Lachine Rapids, which should by no means be 
 missed. Though this is the last in the charin of 
 
 I 
 
18 
 
 rapids, ic is the most formidable and difficult to 
 navigate. Flanked by the rocks on either side 
 the steamer after the first pitch rises on the foam- 
 ing billows, stefred by the steady arm and sure eye 
 of the man at the wheel. The peculiar feeling 
 that comes over the passenger, and the 
 roar cf the water, command silence till the rapids 
 ars run and the steamer emerges into the quiet 
 onrrent below. Then, taking a slight turn; the 
 visitor gets a hne view of the Victoria Bridge- 
 one of the wonders of the age-constructed by the 
 i:rranfl Irunk Railway Company to meet the 
 lequiremcnts of their extensive traffic. The 
 tmiiidation stone was kid on 25th July, 1854, and 
 \ 7(f,^ 'passenger train ran across onl9th Decem- 
 ber, 1859. It IS said to be about two miles long- 
 and the cost of erection to have been close upon 
 SIX and a-ha f million dollars. A little above is 
 the beautiful steel bridge erected within more 
 recent years by the Canadian Pacific Railway 
 Con'pany The scene from the steamer deck is 
 very grand, and commands a splendid panorama 
 ot the town and neighbourhood. 
 
 The Thousand Islands tour should be arranged 
 at Montreal. These islands extend from Piescott 
 to near Kingston, a distance of some fifty miles. 
 I his IS the largest collection of river islands in the 
 world, of every conceivable shape, appearance, 
 mid si/.e, from a square foot to acres in extent. The 
 iargest are closely wooded, and the foliage is rich 
 i^nn lovely On many of these islands are erected 
 handsome hotels and the grand summer residences 
 ot the mighty dollar-making Americans. The 
 steamer is frequently within a stonethrow from 
 the shore of one of these, and now and again it 
 loo.csps if further progress was impr.ssible, when 
 suddenly rounding a point channels and bays 
 gradually open in front, and the visitor is whirled 
 into a splendid amphitheatre of, to all appearance, 
 a great lake, bounded on every side by ari 
 
 Zf r:^ r""'] ^^"'^' ^^'"^h, when^ ap 
 oached, transforms itself into a hundred 
 bttle island. Approaching the Thousand Islands 
 lark, the most pripular resort on the river, a 
 h™! -'r i" «^l^.'"ed of crystal water studded 
 Zi^^u ''"'''.' ^^hich stretch away and succeed 
 
 mrk bo^!f '' ^'''r '• ^^"^ ^^^ ^^" ^'^^^h. This 
 paik began as a religious encampment under the 
 Methodist organisation. Here several hotels and 
 
"f 
 
 19 
 
 nearly four hundred cottages liave been erected • 
 also, a large tabernacle for worship on the Sun- 
 days, and for lectures, concerts, and clar^ses on 
 week-days. The ynowy tents of camping and pic- 
 nic^ng parties are numerous. Yachting, boating, 
 and hshing form the chief sources of amusement! 
 Ihese islands are also famous for wild fowl, which 
 attract sportftmen from all quarters. 
 
 The distance from Montreal to Ottawa is 
 traversed by rail in about four hours. Durincr the 
 journey many flourishing and prosperous vilTa^^ts 
 are passed. Here and there are tracts of the 
 original forests and well-cultivated fields, and im- 
 mediately on crossing a river, the fair capital of 
 ttie JJominion is reached. 
 
 Ottawa. 
 
 is a city with 50,000 inhabitants, surrounded bv 
 the grandest mountain, valley, river, and forest 
 scenery. On a bold hdl stand proudly and 
 majestically the Parliament House n{ the 
 Dominion and Government Buildings, all after the 
 Gothicstyleof architecture, with towers, turrets 
 hnials, and spires, forming a maErnificent group! 
 Of them a recent writer says-" Their spl^^tidour 
 their^ hue, commanding s.tp, together with the 
 beau.y of the surrounding scenery, place them in 
 a very enviable position compared with other 
 structures used for similar purposes, and 
 must ever be objects of interest to 
 the tourist and stranger, and ])ride to 
 the people of Canada." I„ the rear 
 of these buildine's stands the Library, octagonal 
 m shape, dome-roofed, a.id with massive l)uttresses 
 and finials The inside of the building forms a 
 great circu ar hall, ui the centre of which there is 
 a beautifully-executed life-sized marble statue of 
 the yiieen. The books are arranged in shelves 
 round the circular wall, and number over 1S5 000 
 volumes And there is every convenience, in'the 
 shape of seats, tables, &c , for the comfort and use 
 of the numerous readers. To see this buildin^ and 
 Its contents alone is said to be worthy of a trip 
 across the -A Hantic. ^ i^mij 
 
 The grou 1 on which the city is built slopes 
 gently towards the Ottawa river, and o„ the 
 opposite bank of the river stands the little tun of 
 UuIJ, which IS practically a suburb of the capital 
 
20 
 
 The imperial city is well laid out in fine broari 
 streets, lined for most with beautiful treeT whirh 
 
 cl, k a'^H'?.^';"" '"■• ' "'"i.'VS P"n'«M that eveS 
 
 S h thX'^"^ in the tenen.ents which d?.t n! 
 gu sn the Jike houses of our larffe town<» Tl,. 
 pnbhc buildings are substantiarand beautT/ul 
 binH ^ ;'^^'.?"f styles of architecture The fa e 
 banks, hospitals, churches, monastic in<H?n 
 
 Jtv"'' T'c^f'^ Post-Office, &J:"The iVnte : 
 ;-n fi.o T^^"""''' '^"k« ''^'"ong the foremost 
 
 lou-., ... e Li ^^^'^^ and drainage system of th« 
 
 ici V nlnlf "" '""'' '^'"^^^^^ description Ellc- 
 
 cap tal ^ VA.^'v i"^Pr*^"<: P^^t i» the life of the 
 
 ply in eieT/direction '"' '^'' '^'' continuously 
 canit\T T !i'''V.''^"/ ^'^"^^ •" «"d aroand the 
 
 and .me nify extend th^ 1 " '"?«' ""^'^^^^16 ; 
 tl.ewal.toI^.c^fZ^I^;i,^S:^^---i^^ 
 
21 
 
 Falls, which are but a short distance outside the 
 city. Near Rideau Fall is Rideau Hall, the resi! 
 dence of the Governor-General, a fact which ought 
 to make it interestingf to English visitors. Con- 
 sidering Its Imperial interestf., the building seems 
 small and insignificant, but here, notwithstlnding, 
 IS the centre, not only of Canadian power, but also 
 of the gaiety of its fashionable societv life It is 
 surrounded by some eighty acres of land", finely 
 inH .h'^r^ "\ ^'^'^'' J"t^r«e^-t«d by beautifiil 
 ?hecityfs'the"^"- ^'^"^ ^^" ""'^ -'-^e 
 
 Experimenta I Farm. 
 
 Eight or ten years ago the Government con- 
 8 dered the ad vantages that would likely accrue to 
 
 the farming industry of the Dominion by the 
 establishment of experimental farm-. Accord- 
 i>'gly, a select Committee was appointed, with the 
 .esu t that at present five of these are es'tablished 
 
 n the most suitable centres in Canada, viz., one 
 in Nova Scotia, one ,„ Manitoba, one in North 
 West Territory, one in British Columbia, and this 
 one m Ottawa, which is the central one. For it 
 hve hundreii acres were purchased by the Govern- 
 ment in the nf-ai vicinity of the capital. The 
 land, though somewhat swampy and not broken 
 up at the time it was purchased, yet afforded 
 manyadvantages for the purposes fJr which it was 
 selected on account of the nature and qualitv of 
 the soil. What wa. then practically a wilderuess 
 has been transtornied into a series of well-appoin- 
 ted he ds and testing plots, with commodious and 
 suitable dwellings for the superintendents of the 
 different departments, and model steadings. In 
 
 Wrinen."^ "^ '^''' H"^' ""'^ int.oduced all new 
 imp.ements new machines, new manures, new 
 seeds, and all the new methods that are likely to 
 produce good results in developing a higher state 
 ot tarmmg. Numerous and various experin-enta 
 are constantly being made to test fhe earliness of 
 the many varieties of cereals, their respective 
 superiority in yield, stiffness of straw, quality of 
 grain, so al^o they are continually experimenting 
 how to produce the best ro(.t crops, the best g asf 
 and fodder crops, &c. There is a good chemical 
 Jab(>ratory fitted with the best appliances fo the 
 heelTc ' ^''^^''' l^>^"t-^' f^'r«««'H. sugar! 
 
n 
 
 The Entomologist is engaged in the subjects of 
 insects injurious to crops and the remedies for 
 their destruction. The horticulturist has made a 
 vast collection of fruit trees and small fruits, 
 together with a numerous assortment of vegetables, 
 wliicli have all been te.-»ted as to earliness, quality, 
 &c. The diseases which affect fruit trees and 
 vines are carefully observed, and remedies tried 
 and recommended^ The poultry manager is ready 
 to give advice as to the management of fowls and 
 the selection of the best variety of breed to adopt. 
 The agriculturist ha charge of the stock, and has 
 introduced many new and important modes of 
 feeding. It was he who designed the dairy 
 building and piggery, which are on the newest 
 principles, and form a good model for all buildings 
 of a like kind. Valuable experiments are carried 
 on in connection with the feeding of cattle and 
 swine, (fee, but probably the must interesting 
 exi)-:riments are to be seen in the manufacture of 
 butter. The visitor may see the qualities of the 
 milk t ted and converted into butter directly it is 
 taken fr vm the cow. The results of the experi- 
 ments are published, and communicated to the 
 senders free of charge. And there is reason to 
 believe that samples from tliis country would be 
 welcomed and treated in the same way as those re- 
 ceived within the Dominion. Could not some of 
 our home farmers try the experiment by sending 
 samples or otherwise? Altogether a more profit- 
 able and instructive day than that spent on the 
 farm at Ottawa cannot be conceived by those 
 interested. Let it be added that the managers of 
 the different departments are anxious to com- 
 niunicate all the knowledge they acquire, and to 
 show the visitor everything. Tiie civil, courteous, 
 and obliging manner in which they do so is no 
 small inducement to the tourist to repeat the visit, 
 and at least his visit is certain to give him much 
 new information worth digesting. 
 
 The sportsman and the naturalist will find the 
 capital a centre of xuirivalled attractions. Fish of 
 all kinds, from five to fifty pounds, abound in the 
 rivers and lakes, flocks of wild duck in the 
 swamps, and partridge on the moi)r, with 
 numerous deer in the woods, are surely sufficient 
 inducements to visit what has been justly styled 
 the "Sportsman's Paradise." 
 
 Ottawa received its name from the river on 
 
23 
 
 whose banks it stands, and is intersected by the 
 Rideau Canal, with the coiistrucciou of which in 
 1326 it originated. The natural advantages of its 
 location at the confluence of the Ottawa with the 
 Rideau and Gatineau rivers are unrivalled, and to 
 this the wonderful progress it has made is due. 
 All three rivers drain an enormous district, rich in 
 agriculture and timber. The timber is conveyed 
 from the upper regions in enormous rafts to tl)is 
 point, but it is impossible to convey them un- 
 broken over the Chaudiere Falls. Here, there- 
 fore, they are arranged and carried over in timber 
 slides to the navigable water below without suffer- 
 ing any damage. And one of the most novel and 
 exciting feats undertakpu by almost all tourists, 
 from the Prince of Wales downwards, is to 
 descend these slides on a crib of timber. The im- 
 portance of the position of what was originally a 
 shanty village may be gathered from the fact that 
 by 1854- the population amounted to 10,000, and 
 that the honours of a city were conferred upon it 
 in the following year. It was then divided into 
 five wards, each being represented in the Covmcil 
 by three Aldermen. The new city grew rapidly, 
 and, with the completion of the Government 
 Buildings in 1865, a large influx of public officials 
 caiTie in. Within the last ten years it has double'!, 
 not only in population, but also in commercial 
 enterprise and wealth. 
 
 There is no city in Canada easier of accessor 
 affording belter and quicker facilities for reacliing 
 all parts by rail and boat. In this fact, as well as 
 in its being the outlet of the vast and varied 
 resources in the regions beyond, the future 
 greatness and prosperity of the fair capital of the 
 Dominion chiefly lie. The inexhaustible lumber 
 of the inland districts, the mineral wealth of the 
 vicinity, which include gold, silver, copper, iron, 
 lead, marble, and, in yhort, all jninerals except 
 coal, assure it of unlimited prosperity and expan- 
 sion. But for this only want of coal, meantin.v, 
 mining operations of all descriptions would have 
 been extensively and successfully carried on. 
 There are also the agricultural resources. As yet 
 the fringe of all these is barely touched, and, when 
 they are fully developed, who can estimate the 
 commercial importance, the wealth, the greatness 
 in the near future of this queen of cities ? 
 
 I 
 
u 
 
 It is with considerable reluctancfi that we leave 
 the fair capital on the hill and set forward to 
 Turotuo, i> city distant s une 230 miles. During 
 the journey many imp )rtant villages and a few 
 towns are passed," all evidently in a thriving and 
 prosperous condition, and engaged mostly in wood 
 manufacture or in mil'i of various descriptions. 
 After passing Perth the country is more or less 
 covered witli foests and partly broken. The 
 next largest centre is Peteiboro' with 10,000 
 inhabitants. Here the water power is immense, 
 and utilised by many great manufactories and 
 mills. Then follow a close succession of stations 
 built chiefly for the convenience of the agricultural 
 interests of the country, which is rich in oats, rye, 
 wheat, barley, butter, cheese, and fruit, while 
 cattle rearing is prosecuted with success. After a 
 seven hours' run on the rail from Ottawa the train 
 arrives at 
 
 Toronto. 
 
 This is the capital of Ontario, and probably the 
 most prosperous and progressive city in Canada. 
 For the earliest mention of it we are indebted to 
 the French memoirs of 1686, where reference is 
 made to the "Portage of Toionto." The name 
 was originally ap{)lied to the whole district. The 
 Indian name signifies "well peopled" or "p^ace of 
 meetiiie:." The portage to the " place of meeting" 
 started on the shores of the lake and penetrated 
 far into the country. A fort was erected by the 
 French near the Exhibition Buildings, of which 
 the remains may still be seen. It was then known 
 as Fort Rouille, but latterly it was changed to 
 Furt Toronto, and grad>ially the general name of 
 the district became liniiteil to Toronto — the then 
 straggling brick village that extended aPng the 
 bay of Lake Ontario. 
 
 Niagara was the seat of the Provinc'al Govern- 
 ment till 1793, when it was transferred to Toronto, 
 which name was changed to '"York" in honour of 
 Frederick, Duke of York, the son of the reigning 
 monarch of the day— George III. However good 
 the intention, the new name never appeared to 
 have rolled so smoothly on the native tongue or to 
 have become congenial to the soil. The original 
 designation of the place has been preserved by 
 
25 
 
 Tom Moore in his famous Canadian boat song, 
 written in 1801 — 
 
 I dreamt not then that ere the rollino; yi^ar 
 
 Had tilled its circle, I should wander here 
 
 In musinp; awe ; should tread this wondrous world. 
 
 See all its store of inland waters hurled 
 
 In one vast volume down Niagara's steep, 
 
 Or calm behold them, in transparent s'eep, 
 
 Where the blue liills of old Toronto shed 
 
 Their evening sliadows o'er Ontario's bed. 
 
 It had attained to such importance by 1834- that 
 tlie honours of a city were conferred upon it, while 
 the original designation of Toronto was substi- 
 tuted for " York," and enthusiastically received. 
 Thus the shantie village grew witli a comparatively 
 uninteresting history until it was sacked and 
 partially destroyed by the American forces in 
 1813. Time, however, has obliterated the old 
 scars, and to-day there are no signs of the bloody 
 frays and feuds of the beginning of the century. 
 In 1879 the little " place of meeting" had a popu- 
 lation of 71,000. while in 1892 it rose to 210,000, 
 with 50,000 public buildings, a rate of progress of 
 which the community have every reason to be 
 proud. It is difficult to believe that so short a 
 time ago tlie sunnner connection of Toronto with 
 the outer world was only by water, and that in 
 winter it was locked out from all communication 
 except by sleigh. Yet so it was, and some of the 
 older people remember the wonder with which the 
 first locomotives were witnessed. It is now more 
 than ever a favourite "place of meeting." And as 
 in the days of yore the Indian tribes assembled 
 here headed by their chiefs and patriarchs, so now 
 there gather the social, benevolent, and commercial 
 organisations from all parts of the Continent. 
 
 The people of Toronto are proverbially a Sabbath- 
 loving and a Church-going community. No street 
 cars are run, and hardly a wheel of any descrip- 
 tion turns on the Sabbath day. No shops are 
 open, and no business of any kind transacted. It 
 is pre-eminently a city of churches, there being 
 close upon 200 ctuirches and chapels. Their 
 numerous spires and pinnacles rise conspicuously 
 above the town. Many of them are unsurpassed 
 in aichiteetural beauty, symmetry, and design. 
 There is St Jamts' Cathedral — a fine specimen of 
 Gothic architecture. Its gracefully-proportioned 
 spire rises 316 feet, and is the highest on the 
 
Continent. Thf^ tower contains a chime of bells 
 and a celebrated clock. Trte interior is beautiful, 
 and the stained glass chancel windows are after 
 the best art work of Munich. The tower and the 
 spire can be ascended, and a fine view is obtained 
 from the top of the city, the lake, and the country 
 around. There is the Metropolitan Church, the 
 headquarters of the Methodists of Canada, 
 maKniHcrntly situated in an open square. Its many 
 finials distinguish it from all other churches, while 
 its organ, with 3315 pipes, is the largest in 
 Canada. 
 
 But if Toronto is famous for its churches, it is 
 no less celebrated for its educational institutions. 
 There is a first-rate university, some seven colleges, 
 and nearly as many schools. They are all beauti- 
 ful, massive and commodious buildings. The 
 higher branches are all ttuight successfully, while 
 at the head of the educational deportment is Dr 
 M'Lellan, a worthy and excellent Scotchman. 
 The public buildings are altogether creditable and 
 of a high order— n(.tablj% the Union Station, Pust- 
 Offiice, Custom House, Bdnkn, Theatres Grand 
 Opera House, Hospitals, Reformatories, Halls, 
 and Picture Galleries. These latter should by 
 all means be visited. Tho paintings are splendidly 
 displayed, and represent all the European schools. 
 Toronto is divided into six wards, each ward 
 being represented in the city council by four 
 aldermen. It enjoys certain advantages over other 
 towns and municapilities arising from large tracts 
 of freehold property in the best business loca'ities, 
 and from the lease-holders of these a large annual 
 revenue is derived. The streets are laid out at 
 right angles to each other, and, while this 
 faciliatt-s the movements of the traffic, it does not 
 tend to improve the picturesqueness of the town. 
 The streets are all wide, with massive and sub- 
 stantial blocks on either side, many boulevard^d 
 and block-paved, and most ',.f them fringed witli 
 trees, which contribute greatly to the aupearance. 
 Yonge Street is perhaps the longest street in tho 
 world. Its formation was contemplated in 1795 
 for a "portage to the upper lakes without the 
 necessity of going up Lake Erie and passing 
 Detroit." About forty years ago i^art of t.his 
 magnificent street was simply a slough of despond, 
 with water and mud that could scarcely be passed 
 over by the old ox carts. There flourished along 
 
 ^ 
 
27 
 
 the once mn(i(;l3' part of this street a worthy 
 tanner whose name is perpetuated by the " Bible 
 House." The site on which it stands wa< 
 bequeathed by him to the Bible and TracB 
 Society on condition that the rent proceeds bd 
 expended in procuring Bibles to be annually 
 distributed in the public schools. This annual 
 ceremonial is discharged with great interest. 
 Yonge Street was built and laid out as a Govern- 
 ment undertaking for forty-six miles, and became 
 the main artery extending north, and was lined 
 with settlers' dwellings. Here is an incident worth 
 noticmg. "A story is told of a tourist newly 
 arrived at York, Toronto, wishing to utilise a stroll 
 before breakfast by making out as he went along 
 the whereabouts of a gentleman to whom ho had 
 a letter. Passing down the hall of his hotel, he 
 asked in a casual way of the book-keeper— *' Can 
 you tell me where Mr So-and-so lives?" (leisurely 
 producing the note from his breast pocket) ; " it 
 is somewhere along Yongo Street here in your 
 town." "Oh, yes," was the reply, when the ad- 
 dress had been glanced at, " Mr So-and-so lives on 
 Yonge Street, about twenty-tive miles up," 
 
 King Street, as the main street of the original 
 village, is now the finest street in Toronto. The 
 •'Old Gaol" occupies the site on which once stood 
 the Parliament Buildings of the Province of 
 Upper Canada. They were wood erections of no 
 great elegance, but sufficient for the accommoda- 
 tion of the Courts of Justice and the Legislature 
 of that day. They were destroyed, with all the 
 papers and records and a valuable library, during 
 the American War, while the city itself was ran- 
 sacked and pillaged. And, strange to relat,. the 
 destruction of the Government Buildings at 
 Washington by the British forces a few months 
 later was considered a just and sufficient repara- 
 tion for the former havoc. On the other side of 
 King Street, in froi.t of St James' Cathedral, was 
 the old market stance, where, curious enough, as 
 late as 183* the p' >.■' and the stocks were set in 
 order, and a womt-. condemned to undergo the 
 ignominy of the pillory for two hours on two 
 market days for being what was termed "a 
 nuisance." These barbarous instruments of tor- 
 tiire have been removed, and the fair ladies of 
 Toronto are free from the fear of any such 
 punishment, or even from any such unwarrantable 
 
•28 
 
 imputations. A Btroll alone: King Street during 
 the fashionable afternoon hour will convince any 
 8tran(?er that, in appearance, comeliness, dress, 
 and fyaiety, the ladie.s of Toronto are second to 
 none in the old country. 
 
 Toronto is beautifully situated on the shores of 
 Lake Ontario, consecjuently the heat is tempered 
 by a cool bree/e from the water. Whatever may 
 have been the heat during the day, it seldom con- 
 tinues into the night, and so, after the sun has 
 set, the cool air and soft summer evenings make 
 the town what it really is— a most enjoyable and 
 pleasant suionr -^ riaort. 
 
 Toronto to Niagara Falls. 
 
 Starting by steamer from Toronto ^arly in the 
 niorning the visitor may spend hve hours at the 
 Falls of Niagara and return in t!ie evening. The 
 trip is most delightful. Lake Ontario is 180 miles 
 long, 234 feet above sea level, and 35 miles broad 
 by the steamer route to Queenston. The distance 
 is accomidished in about two hours by the beautiful 
 and well-equipped steamers that have recently 
 been placed at the disposal of the public. These 
 have promenade decks, and are provided with 
 seats and comfortable arm chairs for the pleasure 
 of the passengf^r. On leaving the pier it seems 
 almost iinpossible that the steamer should avoid 
 coming into collision with some of the many 
 pleasure boats plying by sail or oar in all directions, 
 and presenting a most lively and exciting scene. 
 As the steamer gets outside the greater part of the 
 boats on thn lake, a fine view of Toronto's 
 prominent buildings and church spires is obtained. 
 The part of the city extending along the water 
 edge is seen to advantage. Away to the right the 
 city is seen to merge away into pretty villas, be- 
 coming more apart as they extend from the town. 
 There the Victoria Park commences, which, 
 accordmg to the account of r fellow-passengtr, is 
 not too well l--pt. Furtlier down the bank rises 
 precipitously, and the soil facing the lake appears 
 white mixed with red clay. Here the continual 
 beating of the water undermines the bank from 
 tune to time, and, the earth falling into the water, 
 IS being swept towards the harbour, consequently 
 
 
29 
 
 \ 
 
 it is t'omid iiecpisary to (Iredjyn it conHtaiitly, 
 Whfn about hiilf-way acroHs the lakn tlic land 
 entirely vanishfiH out of .sight for a little. Bur, as 
 the steamt-r plough , ou her way, it ^(vm reappears 
 in long .>>tretc'he.s clothed with forests, and dotted 
 here and there with white villas and houses along 
 the water line. As tlu^ mouth of Niagara river in 
 approached, one is struck with its narrowness 
 and attracted liy the ruined fort that stands (in 
 each side. These fortifications recall earlier wars 
 and strtiggles, and tlie moss and grass-covered 
 battletnents are left to show how much the gallant 
 deeds of yore are ai)preciated by the present gene- 
 ration. They were formidable enough in their 
 day, but, like most of their class, they would be 
 useless toys in tlie presence of modern artillery. 
 It may be interesting to note how often they 
 changed hands with the varying success of r. 
 The roar of artillery and rifle crack no longer dis- 
 turb the shore ot the lake, while the hifjh banks of 
 the historic river are no longer paraded by men of 
 war, but thronged with country p?asants, tourists, 
 and pleasure-seekers. The baidcs are beoming 
 famous as summer resorts for the people '^f the 
 United States, as well as Canada, but especially 
 for the people of Toronto. As the main outlet for 
 transportation from east to west, the mouth of 
 Niagara played an important part. Indian 
 tribes for long disputed and fought with 
 each other for its possession. Later 
 on the French entered into league with some of 
 the northern tribes, who sent five hundred 
 warriors to help them to seize the entrance to the 
 river. Their march, however, was intercepted by 
 another two of the most powerful and warlike 
 Indian tribes, and they were compelled to make a 
 speedy retreat to their own country, while the 
 French, thoroughly beaten and crestfallen, retired 
 to Montreal. Threa years after this the French 
 again mustered sufficient courage to renew the 
 attack, and, after a series of pitched battles, 
 dispossessed the Indians. No sooner, however, did 
 the main body of the French army retire from the 
 garrison of Fort-Niagara than the Indians, who 
 had patiently waited their opportunity, made a 
 terrible onset, and recovered p )ssession. Only ten 
 whites escaped to tell the awful tale. Shortly 
 after this disastrous defeat the Indians entered 
 into a treaty with the French, which led to the 
 
90 
 
 fortbeinRPulawdliy four baHtiotiH ami n Htoro- 
 liouho. M<'nntiim' a duel Jiotwe.n tlu- HntiHh and 
 theFrench tor tho poHsessionof tlif whole continent 
 wii8 in t.rogroHH. Ah the war went on an attack 
 was n.ade on the foitn, and many armed boatH 
 covered the lake in front of the fort, while a 
 Htronp force wan denp'itched to ben. it in by land. 
 The Rarrifion held out nobly, replyuif? to the 
 furious cannonade from the lake, and engaging in 
 bloody nkirniishes and desperate siillies by lancl, 
 till all their otfieers were either killed or captured. 
 Then an honourable capitulation was granted ! 
 And, in acknowledgment of their gallant defence, 
 those (.f the garrison who survived were permitted 
 to march out with al the honours of war, and 
 then lay down their blood-stained arms on the 
 shore of the placid lake. So the French posses- 
 sion passed away, and the neighbour- 
 ing forts on learning the result wore 
 struck with terror and surrendered almost 
 without a struggle. In 1763 the Treaty of Pans 
 was concluded, by which the whole of Canadaand 
 all the French possessions east of the Mississipp- 
 river were ceded to thr British Crown. The 
 British maintained a military post at Niagara, 
 unmolested by the Indian tribes in the neigl bour- 
 hood. And, though tlie east bank was transferred 
 to the United States by the treaty of 1793, a stn)ng 
 British garrison was always stationed at l*ort 
 
 Niagara. , , ., , . ... 
 
 A writer in 1791 thus describes his visit— 
 "Opposite the fort of Niagara, on a large flat 
 point on the Canadian side of the river, is a town 
 lined out, and lots given gratis to such as will 
 undertake to build on it agreeably to a plan laid 
 down by Government, which, to me, seems to be a 
 good one ; half an acre is allotted for the stance of 
 each house and garden, and eight acres at a dis- 
 tance for enclosures, besides a large commonty 
 reserved for the use of the town. Suveral people 
 have taken lots here already, and no doubt, as th« 
 country advances in population, so will the town 
 in building. In the event of the fort on th9 
 opposite (American) side being given up; it is said 
 there is one to be erected on this side, and the 
 ground is already marked out for this purpose." 
 
 The tov.'n mentioned here was Newark, after- 
 wards changed to Niagara. The fort was Fort- 
 George, constructed in 1792 with tha view of com- 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
'M 
 
 rnaiulitij; I'ort Niapnrn, tocclhtT with thcanclinrage 
 hikJ liiu'buiir witliirj tlu- iikhuIi of tliH river. 
 .SubwHUK^ntly Fort MisHa.-afjja Wits erect tnl to coiri- 
 inaii<l tliH Caiuulian siile. The (listitrbuncea 
 threatened by the ludiaiiH in 1792 were ho alarming 
 tliat a Couni'il was Humuioiied to nteet at Fort 
 Niafrar.i, to which their chiefs, the Canadian and 
 ♦ hn United States ConimiHMioner.s, were invited. 
 Durin(? the conference the birthday of King (leorgw 
 of Knghmd wan celebrated, and the repicf-enta- 
 ti\e.s were rather atuu?«fd to find themHelves cele- 
 brating a royal gala day. 
 
 The tirnt Parliament of the province of Upper 
 Canada is naid to have been held within this fort 
 in 1794, but before the clese of the year the seat of 
 G(jveinineiit was tmnsferred to Toronto, which 
 was then culled "Yoik." But in 1794 it was 
 conceded, along with f-onie other fi.ur forts, under 
 Jay's Treaty. About twenty years after the 
 Kevdhition tlie Union Jack was lowered fron; the 
 ramparts of Fort Niagara as a last salute was 
 fired. The garrison and guns were then trans- 
 ferred across the river to Fort George, so that 
 Fort Niagara was handed over to the Americans, 
 and the .Stars and Stripes floated ])eacefully above 
 its rauijiarts till 1812, when the war bioke out 
 again. 
 
 In 1812 Fort-George so effectually assailed it3 
 oponent on the other side of the river that the 
 garrison was compelled to retire from it. An 
 armistice, however, was entered upon by which 
 they were permitted to re-occupy it, but, after a 
 short interval, both forts again engaged in a de- 
 structive artillery duel which did not prove 
 advantageous to either party, and resulted in 
 equal damage to both furts. During the following 
 spring, the Americans having collected a large 
 number of ships and boats together, with a strong 
 body of so'diers and seaman, embarked, and, 
 under cover of a deni-e fog, forced a landing after 
 a gallant struggle. The landing parties were pro- 
 tected by the high precipitous banks, while the 
 ships firing over their heads shot down the 
 Canadians on the level plain. The British at last, 
 seeing that the American victory was about cotn- 
 plete, spikf^d the guns, blew up the magazines, and 
 retired with their sliattered ranks to St David. 
 Thus Fort-George was taken and occupied by the 
 Amerieans, but during their possession man^ 
 
«i 
 
 32 
 
 bloody skirmishes were engaged in. Finally the 
 British managed tocut off their supplies and to hem 
 them in on all sides, and so compelled the Ameii- 
 cansto evacuate the fort. Before doing so, however, 
 they set all the houses in Newark on fire, and by 
 this cruel deed rendered the inhabitants houseless 
 and homeless, and exposed to all the hardships of 
 a severe and frosty winter. But, while this work 
 of burning was g(jing on, the sudden and unex- 
 pected advance of Murray's troops alarme(l them 
 to such an extent that they retreated, leaving the 
 fort intact and 1500 tents standing on the held. 
 Murray's followers determined to avenge the 
 atrocious burning, and, ac('ordingl'^ 550 gallant 
 men, under cover of night, crossed the nver, 
 advanced stealthily at dawn with fixed bayonets, 
 fell upon the pickets, killed them to a man, then 
 rushed forward, and, by scaling ladders, gained 
 the interior, and after a deadly conflict iort- 
 Niagara was again in British possession. Ihe 
 Union Jack floated proudly above the ramparta 
 on both sidesof theriver; whilethestarsand stripes 
 were sent as a trophy to the Governor-General, then 
 residing in Montreal. A most desirous peace was 
 concluded in 1815, and once more Fort-Niagara 
 was gracefully given up, and tlie stars and stripes 
 replaced the British flag. The natural advantage 
 of both forts is recognised at once. At a point 
 where the river merges into the lake the banks are 
 pretty high on each side, the water deep, and the 
 river narrow. The fortifications have been in the 
 possession of three nationalities— French, British, 
 and United States. The forts were twice stormed 
 by the British, and from each of the others were 
 they wrested at the pf)int of the bayonet, and each 
 time they retired in honour, and ceded them as a 
 testimony of national goodwill. Better days 
 have come, and the dismantled, moss-covered 
 ruins are now all that remain of the stirring 
 past— the shores of the lake and the banks of the 
 river are no longer stained with blood ; while the 
 guardians of both, instead of slaughtering each 
 other, are now only rivals in prosecuting the arts 
 of peace and goodwill. 
 
 But the steamer has not lingered with us all 
 this time at the forts. She has entered the river, 
 the narrowness of which impresses the stranger 
 very much, and, heedlwss (»f the strong current, 
 she pursues her course to Lewiston, a flourishing 
 
88 
 
 villajje much frequented by pleasure-seek* rs. 
 Thence to Queenston, a beautiful and deservedly 
 popular sui'imer resort. The pier is crowded, a,nd 
 presents a lively and gay appearance. The tourists 
 arriving and departi g by the steamer are very 
 numerous, and the greater part of them are from 
 Toronto. Close to the landing is the terminus of 
 the electric raihvay, which nnis to Chippawa, a 
 distance of twelvt^ miles. The electric car route is 
 certainly the best to go by to obtain a sight of 
 every point of interwst on the river to and beyond 
 the falls. They are specially designed as observa- 
 tion cars, with seats hxed longitudinally, the one 
 above the other, facing the river, so that passen- 
 gers can view the scenery without rising fiom tiieir 
 seats. Private cars can also be provided on 
 application being made in advance. But before 
 going " on board," as the American says, we have 
 a short time to linger about Queenston. It is a 
 charming village, and historically interesting. 
 Here the first Parliament of Canada met in 
 primitive simplicity under the shade of a spread- 
 ing oak. Here were the headquarters of the 
 garrisoQ. Here were stirring scenes, and here too 
 was the theatre of deeds of valour. That this was 
 HO ia at once impressed upon one by the massive 
 and colossal monument that crowns the hill close 
 by. Among the many battles fought in 1812 was 
 that of 
 
 *' Queenston Heights." 
 The Americans, to the number of 5300, 
 assembled at Lewiston for the purpose of attacking 
 Queenston, which had only 1500 men. Under 
 cover of a strong battel y mounted on a high bank 
 and commanding the opposite shore, thirteen boats 
 boldly crossed the rapid river. They weie 
 opi)osed by a less formidable battery on Queenston 
 Heights. Three boats put back, but ten landed 
 and returned for a second load of troops. The 
 Americans were getting the worst of the sharp 
 firing that was, meanwhile, being carried on 
 between both batteries, but an unexpected turn 
 took place during the battle. A strong detach- 
 ment of Americans rounded a point of the river 
 unperceived, and ascended the rocks by a path 
 considered impassable. They gained the crest of 
 the hill, and, after a severe tight, the Canadians 
 were obliged to retire to the village, leaving the 
 battery to the enemy. 
 
34 
 
 The cannonading carried on during the morn- 
 ing reached the ears of Sir John Brock, who was 
 stationed in Niagara. He tlioiight the attack at 
 QueenstoH was only a ruse to draw the garrison 
 out of Fort-George, which lie undf^rstood was then 
 to be attacked by the Americans, who were con- 
 cealed in boats behind a point near Fort-Niagara. 
 Before removing any of his troops, therefore, he 
 resolved to ride out and see tor himself how 
 matters stood. Reaching Queenston with only 
 two aides-de-camp, he discovered the Americans, 
 by this time reinforced, in possession of the 
 heights. Orders were at once given for securing 
 more troops, and bombarding Foit-Niagara, which 
 latter was done with such effect that the 
 garrison had to evactuate the fori. General 
 Brock meantime resolved to retake the heights, 
 and, dismountinsr from his steed, charged on foot 
 at the head of 300 men. It was a desperate and 
 and bold attack madeagainst a far outnumberingfoe, 
 but it resulted in the Ampricans being beaten back 
 oil to the slope of the hill. In the ascent General 
 Brock fell mortally wounded near a thorn bush 
 which n.arks the spot. His fall was not made 
 known at tlie time. Colonel M'Donald, his aid- 
 dc-camp, was next shot while gallantly charging up 
 the heights with the York Volunteers. The 
 batteiy was, however, retaken, and the Americans 
 driven off. Some of their officers were about to 
 surrender, and hoisted a handkerchief upon a 
 bayonet, but a gallant youth valiantly tore it off, 
 and, encouraging his men, again opened fire. The 
 Canadians, much inferior from the first in 
 numbers, and now reduced by one-third killed 
 and their leaders dead, retired to Qneenston 
 carrying the body of General Brock along with 
 them. The Amt-ricans were now in absolute pos- 
 session of the heights, and their comradt s on the 
 opposite side of the river, though they saw all 
 that had taken place, did not venture across to 
 their assistance. The Canadians, meantime re- 
 mforced, were led by a circuitous route, and, 
 attackingthe Americans in flank, gained possession 
 of the heights. Both sides were about equal in 
 numbers ; they were also equal in courage and 
 bravery. With a ringing cheer the Canadians 
 advanced to the charge, and the Americans, after 
 a short resistance, tied down the hill towards the 
 Jandmg place. Such of them as tried to escape 
 
m 
 
 throuj?h the wooda wern driven back, others, 
 finding all escape cut off, went down the cliffs 
 chnging to thH bushes, and some of thfse losing 
 their hold were dashed to pieces on the rocks 
 below. Those who endeavoured to swim across 
 perished in the attempt. The victory was most 
 di^cisive. A fiag of truce was hoisted, and about 
 1000 men surrendering were made prisoners. This 
 was the result of the impetuous and gallant dash 
 made by General Brock, which had frightened the 
 Americans, and prevented reinforcements being 
 sent across the river. It must be admitted that 
 the victory was dea'-ly bought by the brave and 
 gallant General's death. His remains were 
 buried two days after in Fort-George with all 
 military honours ; and, "as a mark of respect due 
 to a brave enemy," the garrison, which had 
 nieantim'3 re-occupied Fort-Niagara, with much 
 generosity fired minute guns during the funeral 
 huch was the termination of a battle gallantly and 
 bravely fought by both sides. An armistice was 
 agreed to as a condition of which the Americans 
 engaged to destroy all their boats. This armistice 
 was prolonged indefinitely. Niagara was freed 
 from the invaders' presence, and Brock rests in 
 memory as " the saviour of his country." 
 
 LINES ON THE DEATH OF BROCK, 
 
 As Fatne alighted on the mountain's crest 
 
 She loudly I lew her trumpet's blast • 
 
 Ere she repeated Victory's notes slie cast 
 
 A look around, and stoppt<l : Of power bereft 
 
 Her 'losotn heaved, her breath she drew with p'ain— 
 
 Her favourite Brock lay slaughtered on 'he plain ' 
 
 (Tlory threw on his grave a laurel wren th, 
 
 And P'anie proclaims, " A Hero sleeps beneath." 
 
 —Bnnihr.f. 
 feuch is the history of the hero commemorated 
 by the massive monument on the top of the liill 
 crowned by a colossal statue o( the General in 
 military uniform, the left hand resting on his 
 sworrl, the right extended holding a baton. It is 
 lb5 feet in height, adorned with numerous figures 
 and scenes of the battln. Beneath the column 
 the remains of the General and his aid(s-dc-camp 
 Who tell with him lie in stone sarcophagi The 
 gate on the principal entrance to the beautiful and 
 well-kept grounds that surround the monument i^ 
 adorned with the arms of the Brock family TIih 
 care-taker for a small fee will conduct visitors l)y 
 the spiral stair to the summit of the monument 
 
m 
 
 from which a \lew of unrivalled beauty and 
 e.Ntent is obtained. The province of Ontario is 
 seen to stretch in one immense plain, while the 
 blue waters of the lake farm a distant sky line. 
 The magnificent Niagara emerges from its deep 
 ravine, and in long reaches of lovely green is sean 
 to slowly wind its way towards the lake. The 
 country all around has the appearance of land 
 comfortably settled, widely cultivated, and beauti- 
 fully clothed with trees. The church spires of the 
 towns and villages near at hand are seen ; the 
 position of those further off is indicated by the 
 curls of smoke rising above them like gleaming 
 wliite dots. Altogether the scene is one of most 
 exquisit'- beauty, and it impresses one with the 
 fact that this whole country is one of boundless 
 Wealth and exuberant fertility. 
 
 The monumental stone a little way down the 
 slope of the hill indicates the exact spot at which 
 the General received his death-wo imK The first 
 monument, erected by the British Government in 
 1826, was destroyed by means of explosives, used 
 by a vandal who was afterwards iuiprisomd for 
 the dastardly deed. Eut the present one was 
 erected in 1853 by his grateful countrymen. Some 
 idea of the fervour which raised this splendid 
 monument some twenty-eight years after the 
 death of the hero may be gathered from one of the 
 speeches which were then delivered at a gathering 
 of 8000 pt-ople assembled from all jiarts of the 
 country. One of those who served under Brock 
 said — "Looking at the animated mass covering 
 these sacred heights in 1840, to do hon r for a 
 war in 1812, now old in history, one is prompted 
 to ask, ' How comes it that the gallant General 
 has left so lasting an impression in the hearts of 
 his countrymen, how comes it that the fame of 
 Brock thus floats down the stream of time, broad, 
 deep and fresh as the waters of the famed river 
 with whose waves it might be almost said liis life's 
 blooi mingled ? ' In reply, we might dwell on his 
 civil and military virtues, hi? patrioticself-devotion, 
 his chivalrous gallatitty and his triumphal achieve- 
 ments. .Scil],tliere was more that gave him talisman ic 
 influence and ascendancy over his fellow men, and 
 winch he wielded f^r his country's good. His was 
 the mind instinctively to conceive and promptly 
 to dare — incredible tilings to feeble hearts. With 
 skdl and bearing he infused his chivalrous and 
 
m 
 
 enterprising spirit into all his followers, and 
 impelled them to realise whatever he boldly led 
 the way to accon)plisb." 
 
 We will now return to the stoaiuf r \vh\rf, and 
 "board" the electric car by which pr^ssengers are 
 carried along the bank of the river. Thegrale up 
 the hill is pretty steep to begin witli, and th^ first 
 stop is made at Queenston. Leaving the village, 
 the road — or, as we would say, the railway line — 
 passes near the monumental stone erected in 1860 
 by the Prince of Wales to mark the exact spot 
 where General Brock fell. Then it pa^se3 over 
 the famous battlefield, and close by the monument 
 described above. The car is now very near the 
 gorge, and commands a splendid view of the lower 
 rapids all the way till the world-renowned whirl- 
 jiool is reached. It is a huge basin, witli banks 
 rising perpendicularly to a height of 250 feet. The 
 current whirls round and round this basin with 
 great velocity. Crossing the viaduct over the 
 whirlpool ravine is rather exciting, and the view 
 below grand. But the tourist should descend by 
 the inclined railway, as the view from below is 
 much finer. Here the water seems to churn 
 itself up into a boiling mass of foatn. As we pro- 
 ceed the Railway Suspension Bridge and the 
 Cantilever Bridge are passed. The new foot and 
 carriage suspension bridge comes next, and in a 
 couple of minutes after the car st ips at Clifton 
 House, the best Hotel on the Canadian side. 
 Here the famous falls are seen, and their spray 
 comes up in showers. 
 
 Niagara Falls. 
 
 It v/ould be vain to attempt to describe Niagara 
 Falls, The greatest word-painters have failed to 
 pourtray them ; poets have sung of them, but the 
 grandest flights of imagination in poetry or i)rose 
 co'.ivey but a very vague idea of the sublimity of 
 the scene. The power and majesty of the Creator 
 as exhibited in the stupendous cataract call forth 
 the adoration of the creature — man. The over- 
 whelming grandeur and majesty fill the mind 
 of the spectator with awful veneration and pro- 
 found solemnity as he thinks of Him wlio holds 
 the water in the hollow of His hand. They change 
 with every sunbeam, assume a new appearance, 
 inspire fresh interest, and compel new admiration. 
 At first sight many think the Falls disappointing. 
 
38 
 
 They go ther'.^ hardly knowing what to expect, 
 and, whf^n they see it, conclude the spectacle is not 
 wimt it was represented to be. The scene at the 
 Fdils grows upon one, and the more the stranger 
 gazes upon tfiem the more profoundly he is 
 impressed. No person can spend a few days about 
 the Falls without in some measure appreciating 
 their overwhelming grandeur and magnitude. 
 Their roar is sometimes deafening, but that de- 
 pends tipon the wind and upon the state of the 
 atmosphere. It is not unfrequently heard fifteen 
 or twenty miles distant, but at other times it is 
 scarcely noticed half-a-mile away. For a mile 
 around every open door and window will some- 
 times tremble. The roar, on rare occasions, has 
 even been heard at Toronto, a distance of forty- 
 four i.iiles. The visitor should not miss a trip on 
 the Maid of the Mist, as the steamer which shoots 
 the rapids is called. The sail is a little exciting 
 as she nears the foot of the falling water and comes 
 almost under the sheet. The spray sometimes 
 dashrs over, but the passenger is protected by the 
 water-proof suit provided on board. But perhaps 
 themost interesting feature is thebeautiful rainbow 
 colours that appear to stream in every direction 
 upon the water and spray. 
 
 Donning a rubber suit on the Canadian side and 
 descending by the " lift," then passing through the 
 tunnel and right under the fall, forms a very in- 
 teresting experienae. and gives one a novel sensa- 
 tion. This little trip should be undertaken and 
 repeated on the American side from Goat Island 
 to the "Cave of the Winds," and out on the 
 bridges and platforms. Here the falls are tumbling 
 down at your feet, you are surrounded with heavy 
 spray, and almost deafened with the roar and 
 tunmlt. It is necessary to secure a guide, who 
 provides the A^aterproof suit. 
 
 S ime extraordinary feats have been performed 
 in and about Niagara River and Falls. Captain 
 Webb's fatal swim is one of the most recent. He 
 \\ as an Englishman by birth, and while yet a youth 
 he ran away to sea and became famous for his 
 swinuning feats. His first laurels as a public 
 swimmer were won in South Ali ica in 1872 ; and 
 for saving the life of a sailor who was washed over- 
 board he was presented with £100 by the passen- 
 gers. On swimming across the Cliannel he was 
 presented by the Prince of Wales with £5000. 
 
39 
 
 I 
 
 After many such feats he took up his residence ai 
 Boston, where lie left his wife and two children 
 when he started for Niagara. Captain Webb 
 publicly intimate I his intention to swim the rapids 
 on 24'tfi July, 1883, and many spectators gathered 
 to witness tlie event. L«aving Clifton House on 
 the date mentioned at four P.M., he proceeded 
 down the bank to the ferry landing, where he 
 stepped into a small boat rowed by the ferryman 
 to near mid-river. There he jumped from the 
 boat into the river, and swam leisurely down 
 towards the rapids, keeping, to all appearand', 
 perfect control over himself till he reached the 
 height of the rapids opposite the whirlpool rapid, 
 elevators, and there, in the raging surge, he dis- 
 appeared for evei. His body was found four days 
 after floating on the water about a mile below 
 Lewiston. Never was physical courage worse 
 applied than in this brave fellow s last adventure. 
 He was only thirty-five years old at his death. 
 Even had he been succes>ful, no practical service 
 would have been rendered to the world by the 
 feat. The Niagara River is the channel through 
 which the vast surplus waters of Lakes Superior, 
 Michigan, Huron, and Erie is passed into Lake 
 Ontario, and thence by the liver and gulf of St 
 Lawrence into the ocean. 
 
 The cataract is formed by the descent of the 
 Niagara River down a ledge of rocks, more than 
 one hundred ami sixty feet uf pi-rpendicular height, 
 into a basin of unknown depth bi-rlow. From 
 Niagara Falls the tourists socnetimes go on by 
 Buffalo, but we returned by the same route to 
 Toronto. 
 
 The distance between Toronto and Owen 
 Sound is traversed by rail in about four hours. 
 The villages and stations passed on ihe route ap- 
 pear to be fi )urishing and prosperous. They form 
 farming centre.-), and afford substantial evide:ice 
 of the fertility of the plateaus and valleys 
 surrounding them. The country in a few places 
 close to the railway line is not too rich, nor too 
 closely wooded, thou;?h prosperous farmsteads and 
 stretches of fertile land t.ie numerou.><. At one 
 junction an enormous elevator is seen, and on the 
 route many sawmills are swept by. The streams 
 and lakes in the district are numerous, and abound 
 in fish, which — to judge from the flies that you see 
 hooked round so many of the passengeis' caps — 
 
to 
 
 attract many anglers. From tliR appearance of 
 the rural people about the stations, the large 
 majority migiit be s-et down as Scotch and Irish. 
 
 Owen Sound. 
 
 Arriving at Ovve-n Sound, tlie station is crowded 
 with gay tourints, and the whole presents a lively 
 and pleasing appearance, which is enhanced by 
 the beautiful stearni-r at the wharf, about forty 
 yards from the train. Owen Sound has a popula- 
 tion of over 8000. From its situation on the 
 Georgian Bay it is the central port for the steamer 
 sailings, and the shipping point of an immense 
 farn)mg district, and, therefore, it is rapidly 
 grooving in importance. The country about is 
 closely wooded, and the town itself is well 
 sheltered by a high amphitheatre of limestone 
 rock. It is visited during the summer by a large 
 number of tourists, who chiefly delight in the 
 shoot'ug and fishing afforded them in the vicinity. 
 The vaiions trades conunon to --uch towns are 
 vigorously pushed forward, especially the manu- 
 facture of furniture and woodware. 
 
 The Clyde-built steamer of the Canadiai Pacifio 
 Railway Company np.)n which it was our lot to 
 embark was the Mrnitoba, a magnificent steel 
 Vessel of 2000 tons, elegantly appointed and 
 illuminated throughout with electric light. The 
 state-rooms, which are arranged side by side right 
 round the dining and drawing-room saloons, con- 
 taui two berths and a lounge each. They are 
 roomy,_well ventilated, and to them passengers 
 can retire for a comfortable lounge or a quiet read. 
 A walk roimd the fine promenade deck seven 
 times IS calculated to be a mile ; and round it in 
 couples the passengers are continually tramping to 
 raise an appetite and keep the constitution in good 
 r>rder. ?so intoxicating liquois are sold on board, 
 so that those who require stimulants must provide 
 ihemselves with them befure embarking. On the 
 arrival of the train the steamer is prepared to 
 start whenever the passengers are all on board. 
 blie then steams out of the (Georgian Bay, passing 
 Its bold wo(,dy headlands to Lake Huron, and then 
 into -^ airy-land of narrows, islands, and forest- 
 clad hi iH. Here the steamer is sometimes within 
 stone-throw of land, and seems so hemmed in as if 
 turther progress were impossible. But on she goes 
 guided by the steady arm at the wheel, and the 
 
41 
 
 constant use of the ,sttam whistle wakening the 
 echoes around. Tug. and crafts of all si.es are 
 passed in great numbers. 
 
 Sault Ste Marie. 
 
 ra4T''o?^^;''' ^'"^' ^'^ >^^'''«' the long 
 
 deck of thi ..''""' "r" '' ^''^" f^°"^ th? 
 ciecK ot the steamer to great advantaep It 
 
 stretches for about three-quarters of a mife in 
 
 length, the water rushing down with grea fu ? 
 
 and breaking over the rocks in surging waves^ 
 
 Ihis ,s the fHitlet from Lake Superior to Lake 
 
 t^rZhTt ;;'"'• ''r^v^''^^^'^^^' "f ^^'^^^^ p^^^^^ 
 
 r ^n f f hi"; " '"'^'-^'^ting to watch the L.dians 
 poling their canoes up the surging raiiids •uid 
 peering tl.rough the clear waters to see^'f a, 'y « h 
 are swimming i„ tf.e h.,llows among the n)ck8 
 then suddenly dropping down with the swift 
 
 scoon net "^'rr'" ''^''^' "'I' ''''^ Inng-handled 
 scoop nets. J he passengers have time to enioy an 
 
 exciting run through the rapids in an Indian 
 
 canoe, or to stroll through the town vvhile the 
 
 steamer is pa.-sing through the canal. She takes 
 
 about an hour and a half to do this. The locks 
 
 tliat have been constructed on the American side 
 
 are magn.hcent. The canal o„ the Canadian side 
 
 IS only in process of oonstruciion. The importance 
 
 of the locks mr,r be estimated from the fact that a 
 
 ^nH nt" ';P'^* • "l.t°""«ff« passes tfirough them 
 during the navigation season than is shipped 
 through the Suez Canal in a whole year. By 
 means of the canal the vessel is raised some 
 eighteen feet to the level of Lake Superior. Sault 
 Ste Marie and the neighbouring villages are grow- 
 
 owin^^.n T; ''^"^,^r9"^'"g popular summer resorts 
 owing to the facilities of communication afforded 
 by land and wate^. The three great railways that 
 have c;onveiged m Sault Ste Marie within recent 
 years have given the villages a great impetus. 
 Ihe Canadian Pacific Railway Company have 
 ^^panned the rapids by a magnificent steel bridge. 
 uL ^ ff"^'"" . ^''^ excursions by land and 
 laice, the town is most favourably 
 situated ; the three great lakes of the new vvor d 
 meeting here. But while we were ashore the 
 steamer has gained the top lock, and we must re- 
 emlm. k before she emerges into Lake Superior. It 
 I- 460 miles long 170 miles broad, and 800 fee. 
 deep, being thus 200 feet below the level of tlL 
 
 6 
 
m 
 
 Atlantic. Through the h oudest purt of this im- 
 niensH hike the steatner sttikes a dirt'ct cour.st^ till 
 tI«H rocky bluffs of IhIo Royal come in si^ht. Ihen 
 coineH Thuiid.r Cape, 1380 feet high— a l)old 
 purple promontory sloping gently fur a short dis- 
 tance from thh lake and then rising in a perpen- 
 dicular cliff. It stands grandly at the entrance to 
 a bay of the same nainf', which is partly formed 
 and sheltered by it. Jiehind it is Silver Islet, from 
 whose depths many millions in value of silver 
 have been dug out, but the mines have become too 
 difficult for profitalile working, so that the miners 
 are now continuing their operations upon the 
 mainland. Thunder Bay, wlien fairly entered, is 
 almost sunounded by a high mountain range 
 mostly covered with wuod. As the steamer strikes 
 for Port Arthur the scenery is Hue all round. This 
 town boasts of 4000 inhabitants, and the passen- 
 gers have an ojjportunity of seeing it while the 
 vessel is discharging her cargo. The buildings are 
 good, and there aie seme tine shops. Conspicuous 
 among the latter are the jewellers, where brooches, 
 rings, &c., mounted in the beautiful-coloured stone 
 of the district, are much run upon. 
 
 Leaving Port Arthur, the steamer, after sailing 
 for an hour along the shore, arrives at 
 
 Fort William, 
 
 overshadowed by the Mackay Mount. \in, of which 
 a good view is obtained from tlie deck of th^e ship. 
 The population of the town is about 3000. That it 
 is rapidly becoming a commercial centre of import- 
 ance is evident fr(jm the piles of coal that are 
 heaped on the wharf for transmission inland, the 
 great elevators, three of which contain from twelve 
 to fifteen hundred thousand bushels each, that 
 stand close by, and the great activity all rourid. 
 Its accessibility by land and water, combined with 
 the beauty of its location, and the opp^rtuni ties for 
 sport in the vicinity, are making it a favourite 
 resort for pleasure seekers. Fort William was at 
 one time a Hudson's Bay Company's pi' --^d did 
 an extensive trade in fur. The jot- from 
 
 Owen Sound to this town occupies two uays and 
 two nights. And no one who has been favoured vyith 
 good weather is ever likely to forget the impression? 
 made by so fine a trip. The comfort of the 
 steamer ploughing through the glassy lakes, that 
 look more like oceans than laken, the rapidd, the 
 
?■■:,'? 
 
 43 
 
 I 
 
 ,/ 
 
 narrowH, the ialands, that have befn pL^'^ed, and 
 the land scenery, all combine to entrancn the 
 mind. Here our happy company, who had been 
 havinf? a most enjoyable time of it on board the 
 Bt^Mmer, break up with regret. Between the 
 arrival of the steamer and the depait>ire of the 
 west-bound transcontinental train the traveller 
 has sufficient time to have a good look at the 
 town if he so desires. 
 
 Fort William to Winnipeg. 
 
 The journey from Fort William to Winnipeg, 
 occupying a night and the greater part of a day, 
 is through a wild broken country, rocky, 
 and for nio^jt clothed with immense forests. 
 The rivers that pour 
 sides are rapid, and 
 of water from above, 
 and waterfalls passed 
 as are also the numerous 
 
 down the mountain 
 
 show the pressure 
 
 The many cataracts 
 
 are most piclurescjiie, 
 
 along the 
 
 lakes 
 
 line. 
 
 The valuable forests tliat clothe the hills have 
 been swept by fire.^, as is evidenced from the 
 blackened stumps and jiaked, withered branches, 
 with their ghost-like and weird appearance in the 
 moonlight, standing out against the sky. This 
 wild region was traversed by Wolseley for 400 
 miles, whpn he successfully led an army to 
 suppress the rebellion of the half-breeds on Red 
 River in 1870. A few of the boats used on tha 
 expedition may yet be seen from the railway. 
 But, wild and broken as the country looks, it 
 abounds in precious metals, valuable minerals, 
 and other natural wealth, while it supplies the 
 boundless prairies beyond with the much-needed 
 timber. Right in the heart of this wilderness is the 
 beautiful island-dotted Lake of the Woods. 
 It is the largest sheet of water seen from the rail- 
 way between Lake Superior and the Pacific Coast. 
 Here one is surprised at the industry carried on. 
 The convenient water power is utilised by quite a 
 number of sawmills with their tall black chimney 
 stalks. Quite a cluster of warehouses and 
 elevators are overshadowed by an enormous flour 
 mill with a grinding capacity of 2000 bushels per 
 day. It is an imposing block of five or six stories 
 high, and built of granite quarried on the spot. 
 Large sawmills appear in close succession west- 
 ward, while the stations are busy with the 
 transportation of the immense piles of timber. 
 
u 
 
 sawn for :ill imri)ose.s, that are heaped up reaay 
 o' "lup.nent. The vv.ocl trade is mostly earned 
 ,, . ov Eu.stern Canadiuns-a hardy race bc.m to 
 thH work --who pref."- the pronnd thiiH cleared to 
 J!;: r iVnuade^artus of The We«t. ^ The vu age« 
 increnHe in size and importance as the train 
 gradually Rets nearer the prairie ti 1 leaving the 
 woods behind, the valley of the Red River ih run 
 np. and the river crossed by a long iron bridge. 
 H»^re a blink of crafts and steamers is got, and 
 then the famous city -f Winnipeg comes into 
 view, and is soon thereafter entered. 
 
 Winnipeg. 
 
 It is scarcely credible that tlie frontier trading 
 post, known a few years ago as lort (,arry, should 
 have been transformed into a town of 30,000 
 inhabitants, but yet such is Wmn.ppg. ^While 
 vet an important station of the Hudson s Kay 
 "Company, it came i.ivnninently into public notice 
 during the Re.l River Rebellion of 1869, when 
 Kiel, the half-breed, led the Insmrectiomsta. But 
 a great change has tome over the city since thab 
 time • the canoes on t!ie rivnr have been replaced 
 bv powerful steamers, and the waggon cart sup- 
 planted bv the iron horse. Fort Garry, the home 
 of the Indians was always an important trading 
 centre, and eaily visited by the Hudson s Bay and 
 North-West Comi.anies. The former did an 
 extensive trade with the Indians in the exchange 
 of furs for merchandise ; and the business 
 relationship that always existed between them and 
 the wild tribes had a most healthy influence. 
 Indeed, it is owing to their kind dealings with the 
 Indians that is to be attributed the friendly 
 manner in which the Indians received the British 
 '111 vniicGs, 
 
 Winnipeg is the "golden gate" to the North- 
 West, and the half-way house between Montreal 
 
 anu Yrincouver. 
 
 It is "built at the juncture of two 
 rivers— the Red and the Assiniboine. Thus its 
 natural position will always keep it in the front 
 rank of commercial enterprise. The enormoua 
 net-work of railways connecting it with all parts, 
 surrounded by a fe"rtile country, and in direct com- 
 nuinication with the vast wealth extending 
 between it and the Pacific coast, augur well fonts 
 future prosperity. Its rapid growth has also been 
 thus graphically described—" It may be truly said 
 
4B 
 
 that Mmiitii^a is thf; b^pinniup of a vnst pras!>y 
 eea of virpin wcaltli— of a bouiKlKHs prairie of un- 
 told f«?rtiiity, and at the outi-r rim of thiH woniitr- 
 land wits, nii»'f>n-likH and najeHtic, y mnp, but 
 Htrong and Insty and propporous— out^trippnii? ail 
 its rivals, rapidly increaHing in iinportanct — an 
 adolescent ^'iant, whose yet untrif'd str«'nt;tli is 
 indicative of a sturdy uianh od. In thia , lace, 
 midway between two great oceans, Winnip l; has 
 sprung up as if by magic, as if in this latte day 
 the genii of Aladdiii's iainp had cr(;;ited a cii.y in 
 an incredibly short space of timr. For sudden 
 growth, combined with solidity, the woild has 
 probably never seen its cou...3rpart. In a few 
 years it has risen from a hamlet to a n.etropolis. 
 Thbre is no flimsiness about its buildings — no mere 
 temporary makeshifts of structures, as in many of 
 the mushroom towns which havu risen on the 
 western wilds. The first surprise excited in a 
 stranger on visiting Wijinipeg is its broad, paved 
 streets, the substantiality and magnificence of tlie 
 public buildings, the neatness and taste of the pri- 
 vate residences, and the possession of all the 
 accompaniments of metropolitan life. To-day it 
 can, with pardonable pride, claim a development 
 unparalleled in the liistory of Canada, and boast 
 that its name, synonymous with all that is 
 progressive and prosperous, is n ore widely and 
 familiarly known in every quarter of the civilised 
 globe than ttiat of other cities of greater age and 
 pretensicms." It is remarkable that the resnirces 
 of the North-West were so little known till withiti 
 recent years. Now they are rapidly being taken 
 advantage of in proportion to the access facilities 
 afforded. 
 
 As the headquarters of the Winnipeg and 
 Hudson's Bay Railway, a railway which is in the 
 course of construction, it wdl be brought into 
 closer connection with the mother country. 
 Arriving at the station, the stranger is at once 
 struck with its conimodiousness, and the busy and 
 active life of which it is the constant scene. It is 
 provided with excellent waiting and refreshment 
 rooms. The sidings of thy train yard would 
 extend, if stretched in a straight line, some twenty 
 miles, while the engine sheds and wt)rkshops 
 erected by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company 
 would do credit to any country or town in exist- 
 ence. The land offices of the Company are within 
 
46 
 
 I 
 
 the station buildings, and intending settlers bound 
 for the far west may there be conveniently supplied 
 with all information, and provided free with 
 innumerable pamphlets descriptive of the extent 
 and resources of the country. Adjoining the 
 station are the Government Land Offices, where 
 valuable information may be obtained on all 
 subjects. 
 
 The visitor will be agreeably surprised to see the 
 broad well-j)aved streets. The town is well 
 provided with handsome hospitals, splendid 
 schools, and beautiful churches. The buildings 
 generally are substantial and of a superior style of 
 architecture, as, for example, the Government, 
 municipal, and other public buildings, the h'^^ela 
 and the warehouses. Electric cars run in all 
 directions, and electric light is used all over the 
 tovi^n. The now streets that are being formed, 
 and the numerous new buildings in c^ urse of erec- 
 tion round all the outskirts of the city, are the 
 most convincing proofs of the demand for houses 
 and, therefore, of the constant growth of the popu- 
 lation. Among the moat recent built stores are 
 those of the Hudson's Bay Company. This block 
 is entirely built of stone, and guaranteed fire- 
 proof. In these stores anything from "aneedleto 
 an anchor may be [nirchased at a reasonable 
 price. Since they carried on tlie seal and fur 
 trade with the Indians their methods of business 
 and the style of their buildings have 
 gradually changed to meet the modern 
 requirements of civilisation. A Hudson's 
 l.ay Company store is to be found in 
 almost every important town, and the benefit it 
 confers on the community is incalculable. It 
 securer to them first-class floods at a moderate 
 price, and so prevents other tradesmen from 
 demanding exorbitant profits for goods supplied. 
 The settlers are therefore protected so far. 
 
 The on y rol.c of the old Fort Garry which now 
 exists IS the archway in front of the old Govern- 
 Ivo'n ^-T' ^'"* ^*'", foundations of the old stone 
 SpecW '"'^''"""•^^^ '' ^"^y ^^ traced on close 
 Winnipeg is the chief centre of the trans- 
 continental railway system, and the headquarters 
 ^M.^7T*''" rhvision, which boasts of three 
 htmdred elevators or grain stores, with 'vareho, 'e 
 capacity for over seven million bushels The 
 
 * 
 
47 
 
 terminal <'Ievators iji fi,^ . i 
 
 ^bout half thrcuan r t"^.'"'' '^P^'^'y ^^r 
 flour and oatmea S and i.l^ ^'^ important 
 o various kinds. Owin^to H ! 5'' manufactories 
 of the prairie, ,t was o "? wi Mn "''"^"''''^^ ''^^^ 
 that the latter indnstrir;Ver^?J,';7/^^a"fcy^ars 
 the unlimited water nowpr h*^'*=^^- -But now 
 utilised for the nur 0^'. ''^•'^" ^««^asily 
 
 it a. fa,nous m' n Scturi ?^"^^n '" ""'^^ 
 quantity of otts, barley vvheaT^,, i^'"*^''^' The 
 are sold at Winnipe- is'hI.dTv n. i''?^"'"*''' ^^^^ 
 IS safe to say that inVropSn ?1'1'^^''- ?"t '' 
 no town in the world traSsrct^V. u I^PP^^^tion 
 this town. transacts more business than 
 
 HelS the\"o";;e%/Tf%'''i^"'''T '« Silver 
 l>iving'to it^th ou/h tL ,lo^'^ ^. «"^'th. 
 with the enormous P.n ' ''""l^ ""^ i« struck 
 &e that a,?S";.re' i:?r'' ?j"«T,7' --ots, 
 garden produce ^row herp in f i "^'i '''"'^^s oi 
 
 their size is th? ^s , oss bli'7'f" ^'^'^'' ^""^ 
 cl.mateand fertility ,VtTe soil '^^V'"?"^ "^^ ^^« 
 millions of buffalo thU ^^'"^ ^^^^ of the 
 
 prairies nre kept here n .''\ '"'''?'^ ^^^^ the 
 had the pleasn e of Sep L ^^'^^'^ff^ Park, and I 
 noble animal ' '^'"^ '""'^ half-dozen of these 
 
 ■'surprised to find so much of th!'. ^'^"/'^^ 's first 
 vicinity of the town n ;^ . ''?"''^ ^" ^^e near 
 broken, and ' arleiv i, . ,rf '1'^' condition, nn- 
 Hurprise is ovi Te L " ' • ' ^''' ^'^" ^''^'^ 
 over a boundli ' levercSr.fr' r ' '''' ^^^"^^« 
 the eye can reach and TJm^ ex ending as far as 
 
 view 'but a lonj lin^ of t ee ' tlln^"^ ,'" ^l''""^ ^^e 
 of the Assiniboine River h!S*=^ mark the course 
 on the rich Rreen jrras. ;.i ^f cattle, feeding 
 
 at regular interval afuns.cd' T^ ^"^^^teads 
 are surrounded wiM, l.;^ f i i ^^^ homesteads 
 appear to be 7; Jo fr'"'^^'"'"'^ ^''''^> '-^"^ 
 After a run o sixtv n,I ^''T^''^'^^^:. condition. 
 train first stops at ^ "''''' ^''"" Winnipeg the 
 
 Portage=Ia=Prairie. 
 
 a rich district: a fs^ e^ denr?;on!V.' '\^ "''''''. ^^ 
 a"cUhelargegrainele;:!t;^teS,^Z^^;;f 
 
48 
 
 spic'uou.sly neiir to the station. Fiom this town a 
 branch line strikes otf the main line in a ncjrth- 
 westerly direction for some two hundred inile.s to 
 Saltcoals, vvliere 80 many families of the crofter 
 class ftom the Hebrides accjuired settlements a few 
 years a^:;). Special facilities were afforded them 
 by public subscriptions, augmented by the Im- 
 ])erial Parliament. They have no reus in to regret 
 their choice, and, from all inf()rn.atif)n received 
 they appear to be quite content with their lot and' 
 doing well. The country, rendered accessible bv 
 this new railway branch, is extremely fertile and 
 mtending settlers would do well to inspect it 
 before pioceeding farther west. 
 
 After leaving Portage-la-Prairie tlio eoinitry is 
 vvell settled, and busy little towns with grain 
 elevators are passed in pretty cK)se succession till 
 we arrive at 
 
 Brandon. 
 
 _ This town has nearly 6000 inhabitants, is grow- 
 ing by leaps and bounds, and is second in im- 
 portance only to Winnipeg. It is the distributing 
 market centre of an extensive and well-cultivated 
 district, as nriay be seen fi-otn the number ot grain 
 elevators flour and saw n.ills. The town is 
 beautifully situated on high ground, and, tf.ough 
 only a few years old, can boast of splendid streets 
 beautiful buildings, and all the other institutions 
 that are necessary to the development of a large 
 commercial, and prosperous city, such as it 
 promises to be in the near future! The Experi- 
 mental I arm is in the vicinity of ]^.randon The 
 success that attended many of the settlers'in the 
 neighbourhood of the town is almost incredible 
 Let me illustrate this by one example-Some 
 eight or ten years ago a young man starte<l life as 
 a farm labourer ; his savings did not amount to 
 much, but in a couple of years the modest sum at 
 his disposal was laid out in securing for himself a 
 hal section, or 320 acres of laiid. ll rtune 
 smiled upon h.s efforts, and he went on add ng 
 imue and to that originally acquired, tdl at the 
 end of SIX years he had no less than 2000 acr. s 
 under cultivation; while the property incr,>ased 
 in value to over £8000. Sutely this in ance 
 should encourage farm labourers to go out and try 
 heir fortune A branch line, from BramUm to 
 the south-west, opens up a vast track of country 
 
49 
 rich in g^rain, aii'J tsn^oiallv ,•„ i 
 
 both branches bH.i^^;-tK|--'t^;;.;^'- 
 Over the Prairie. 
 
 "SO at long ir.terva] toKs Vh P 't^'^^^'^" ^''^^ 
 tains, and the undulatST ,. • •^^",'''>' ^^o""- 
 with thriving villages "L^^ '' ^''"*^^' ovn- 
 
 station after statio,fi ms.e n 'h'""' ^'-^""^ «« 
 very similar to each otherTn '"''''r^ S'lccessinn. 
 varying numbe, o ous s".ln'rf ^''"^^'"^ ^''« 
 around them. The coimtrv t ?! ^'^'^^ ^In^tered 
 with short, thic-k, swee g;a\s mterf^- VT''"'^ 
 a great many flJwers that gi've the V"^"' '"'^'' 
 very pretty apnearanrf. T^ ^ ^ landscape a 
 
 now and aga n may L l^'^VT""^ ^''^' ^'^'^ 
 
 chic-ken.,'' sUdTn The"' eof;;t^;v th '"'^'^'■^' 
 ing tram, rising on the w ng Wii V." ''''•^■ 
 duck are a so abundant on Vu^ ^''^^^ ^"'^J 
 
 are seen from the trafn. ^'"^ '^""^^'^ ^hat 
 
 ^ W^'!"i.' '''^'' "i« prairie 
 
 Bright flowers bloo.n .strangelv fur • 
 There s be aity in the clear bh.e skv ' 
 *„^ \«'''^« ^^veetnes. 1„ the ai ; ^' 
 
 JJeok.s dell and dingle yav 
 
 "^''nni'n 'V^''"'''*''"'« ^^i"<J« free 
 
 rhro ugh many a fertile vale 
 The aiitlere.l deer and graceful' hinrl 
 
 Bo.md o'er the wooded dale 
 
 Th?c"un^Vh:^Valou[Ts^''^^"^^?'■'•■^•^ ^- '^P-^- 
 favourite district for Britishers '"'"" ''* ^'^'^>' 
 
 and a tea ml ^ "»''^'i/lay><wo.k for a man 
 ana a team. It is a veritable manufactory of 
 
oO 
 
 wheat, and the work is carried on son ewhat on a 
 military style— " p^r-ighirig by brigades and reap- 
 ing by divisions." Ihe i)rincipal buildings of the 
 farm may be seen from the train to the right, 
 while the neat cottages of the workmen dot the 
 plain as far as the eye can reach. 
 
 Regina, 
 
 the capital of the Province of Assiniboia, 
 some forty miles from Indian Head, is the 
 next most important town, having a population of 
 nearly 3000, being the distributing centre for the 
 country north to Prince Albert and south to Sb 
 w "^Vr ^® r^PRislative Assembly of the North- 
 West rerntories meets here. About two mileo 
 beyond the station the Lieutenant-Governor's 
 residence may be seen to the right, and on the 
 same side, a little further on, are the head-quarters 
 of the Aorth-West ]\Iounted Police. The officers' 
 quarters, the barracks, and the drill hall form 
 quite a little village bv themselves. The organi- 
 sation consists of 1000 young picked men, 
 thoroughly drilled, and under the strictest military 
 discipline. They hold a similar position to our 
 pohcenien at home, and are stationed at intervals 
 over the North-West Territories. Long before 
 the introduction of the railway their conciliatory 
 and affable manner commanded alike the respect, 
 the confidence, and the submission of the Indians 
 so that the appearance of the red-coated guardians 
 of the ptaines was not attendt-d bv the violence 
 and the bloodshed which characterised the open- 
 ing of new districts in other parts of America 
 
 IhG country, which .surrounds Regina for about 
 twenty miles is known as the Regina Plain, and 
 IS supposed to he the best soil in Canada for 
 growing wheat in a favourable season. I have 
 
 Hmo. ^l Z- '''" ^^•^'''^^'^"<^«« that a farmer some- 
 times takns tour crops in succession off a field 
 after the hrst ploughing, the stubble being simply 
 burned, and the seed harrowed into the ashes 
 lliink of tliat, almost a reversal of the curse t \ 
 
 Zv.r'' 'Ii /'"jl'^'^? fi-f"" Scotland have settled 
 down in this district. They have had advanced 
 .li, Vr\, ''" ''^" e-M^Hnment, fn,m £100 to £120 
 \umUJ.t '"""f-V ;^'^>-^ chiefly laid out upon their 
 h mesteads, and the progress that is being made 
 by (hem is watched with considerable interfst 
 In'om Reguia a railway branch extends south 
 
51 
 
 was an c^. settlement, and now^H a th L 1 tl. 
 town This c■omparati^elyne^vconntrJ•lL^^^^^ 
 
 laisinp Ihe land ia fertile and well shelterer^ 
 and sett ers are flocking thither. Brya tLnri 
 phecv IS being rapidly fultilled as the tide' human 
 life flows over the Great We.'st- 'inman 
 
 Ihese are the Ranlen.s cf the De.c;ert, the^e 
 The unshorn fields, houwWss an.l boaut fnl 
 For wh„;li the speeoh of Hno'a-Ml h^s n na nie- 
 rhe Prairies. I heliohl them for the f^rst 
 
 I akes m the encirehiii.- vastness. Lo I thev streNOi 
 
 In fairy unihilatioiis, far away ^ 
 
 As if the Ocean, in InVs -ientlest swell, 
 
 Stoml still, with all his ronn.le.l l.illows fixed 
 
 An. niotionle.ss for ever. Motionless ^'J 
 
 >o .-they are all niichained aoain. The clouds 
 
 Sweep over with their shadow^^ and, heiieat 
 
 The surface r. lis an.l fluctuates to the eye ' 
 
 Dark hollows seem to slide along- and chase 
 
 Ihe sunny ridges. -^ * -^ 
 
 Still, this peat sr.litude is .piick wj h life 
 Myriads .if insects, t-au.ly as the flowers " 
 Ihey flu ter over, gentle (|uadrapeils 
 And bir.ls-that. scarce .nve learnt the fear nf man- 
 Are here, an.l sli.lino- rej.tilcs of t he orounl 
 Startling y beautiful. The sraceful deer 
 . JJounds to the wood af my approach. Th° bee- 
 A more adventurous col nist than man, 
 
 i- 111- the savannahs with his murmurings. 
 <V"ll ^}''{T 'V'' •'^^^■^'^'ts. as in the g..lde'i a->e 
 ^^ ithin the hollow oak. I listeiriou-- 
 To his d.miestic hum, an.l think I hear 
 riie .sound of that advanciiiu multitude 
 J\ hich soon shall till thes^ .leserts. From the .round 
 €.imes up the laugh ..f chi .'ren, th^ soft v<,ice 
 Of niauleiis, an.l the sweet and .s.drmn hvmn 
 Of Sabbath worsliippers. The l.>w .,f hel-.ls 
 Blends with the rustling of the heavv grain 
 Over the dark-brown furrows. All at once 
 A fresher wind sw.>eps I)y, and breaks my dream, 
 And I am in the wilderness alone. 
 
 Yes! at the present day the " Chnrch-goiiis 
 V .b AV 'i*'^ "', '"' .^'^"^ principal towns „f the 
 Aorth-West, and children are growinir np in 
 healtfi and beauty. Proceeding west from R.gina 
 the buildings visible from the Railway liave more 
 olthe ordinary farm l.n.k about tliem. f^vttle 
 raising and wheat-growing appfar to becondticted 
 
52 
 
 in a systematic manner. The country soon 
 becomes more broken, wliile numerous lakelets 
 and ponds occupy the hollows. After the trees 
 are left behind, the land seems more desolate, 
 and is covered oi.ly with the thick buffalo grass. 
 The occasiunal farms near the line appear to be 
 im>si)eious, and large vegetables grow in the 
 gaideiis around. 
 
 At Chaplin the Old Wives' Lakes, very large 
 bodie;i of water, appear to the left of the road. 
 They have no outlet, and consequently are 
 alkaline. .Skirting past thes^ we find ourselves 
 in a veritable paradise for sportsmen. Some of 
 the lakes are salt, but the most of them are 
 clear ami fresh. Here aie myriads of wild 
 ducks and geese, of plovers and snipe. These are 
 all to be seen on the low ground, while '"prairie 
 chicken"" are plentiful on the high ground, and 
 antelopes numerous on the hills. The surface of 
 the prairie is now marked in all directions with 
 the old buffalo trails, and pitted with their 
 "wallows." This noble denizen of the prairie is 
 all but extinct. The great piles of white bleached 
 bones rt ared here and there al^ng the line, show 
 that ihtise animals roamed in n'illions, and held 
 undisputed sway over the entire west country 
 before their extermination commenced with the 
 appearance of the white mat). At the stations 
 along the route are to be seen many Indiati squaws, 
 with their papooses— not generally a very tidy- 
 looking lot. They excite ct)nbiderable curiosity 
 among the passengers, and try to trade with them 
 by exchanging pipes and trinkets for tobacco and 
 silver. Tliey are generally clothed in blankets of 
 brilliant colours, mostly red. The Indians, not- 
 withstanding the attention paid them by the 
 Governu\ent in the way of i^rovisions, &c., are 
 gradually disappearing, and will soon become a3 
 extinct as the buffalo. 
 
 Before we arrive at Medicine Hat large herds of 
 horses n.ay be seen on either side of the line feed- 
 ing on the rich grasses. Medicine Hat is a busy 
 and important centre, with over 1000 inhabitants. 
 There are several churches and f)ther public 
 buildings. This district, especially in the direc- 
 tion of Lethbridge, abounds in extensive coal 
 mines, fioni which large sujjplies are daily 
 shipped. After passing Medicine Hat, the high 
 prairie is again marked deeply with the trails of 
 
 
53 
 
 buffaloes, and tlie round hollows in which they 
 wallowed, while the plain isytrewii over with their 
 whitened skulN and bones. Farms appear at 
 intervals, and large herds of cattle are seen grazing 
 on some of the ranches. Reservoirs of 
 natural gas have been discovered in 
 this quarter. The gas is now being 
 utilised for lighting and heat-'ng the station 
 houses, and affording power for pumping water. 
 The gas, when fully utilised, will prove an 
 immense boon to the country. 
 
 At Crowfoot Station the first view of the Rocky 
 Mountains, more than one hundre;! miles away, 
 is obtained, and all the passengers are looking 
 eagerly towards them. Soon there appears in the 
 clear blue sky a glorious line of snow-capped 
 peaks rising almost perpendicular from the plain, 
 and stretching towards the western horizon as far 
 as the eye can reach, forming apparently an im- 
 penetrable barrier. As the train approaches them 
 peak seems to rise above peak, and dark belts of 
 forest reaching near the snow line come in sight. 
 The eternal glaciers and snow fields sparkle in the 
 bright suidight, while over the rolling tops of the 
 ft)ot-hills mountain passes cleft, as it were, into 
 the very heart of the great mountains appear. 
 
 At Strathniore Station we are fairly into the 
 country of the B ackfeet, the mo-^t warlike and 
 handsome of all the Indian tribes. They were 
 once a terror and a dread, but now they live 
 peacefully and quietly on a reservation near the 
 line. The 1 kiw River appears on the left hand side, 
 and, immediately aft*^r the train crosses it by a 
 Steel bridge, the important city of Calgary is 
 entered. The town of Calgary was only estab- 
 lished in 1884-, and already it has a population of 
 5000. As Winnipeg is the golden gate to the 
 prairie on the east, so is Calgary the gt)lden gate 
 to the prairie on t'-e west. It is the capital of the 
 Province of Alberta, which now transports its im- 
 merjse resources of grain, cattle, sheep, and horses 
 over the Rockies to Vancouver, whence they are 
 shipped to all parts of the world. If Winnipeg is 
 destined for a great future, so also is Calgary, as 
 an agricultural, mineral, manufacturing, and dis- 
 tributing centre. It is beautifully situated on a 
 hill-girt plateau, within sight of the snow-covered 
 peaks of the Rockies, and is the centre of the 
 extensive ranching country around. If its history 
 
r)4 
 
 is sliuit it is yet one of sulid and bteady progress. 
 Tlierti are tine hotels', beautiful churclies, sub- 
 stantial banks, well-tquipijecl schools, and ail the 
 utlier institutions and public buildings that go to 
 make a great city, though it is yet only in its 
 infancy. It boasts of two daily and three weekly 
 newspapers. It is supplied with the telephone 
 and electric light system. The Judge of the 
 Supreme Court of Northern Alberta, the Superin- 
 tendent of Dominion Mines, the Dominion Laiid 
 Agent, the Registrar of land titles, and the Sheriff 
 of Alberta all reside at Calgary. It is an im- 
 portant station of the North-West Mounted 
 PolicH, and a post of the Hudson's Bay Company. 
 In Calgary the enterprising ranchmen have a 
 social club, conducted on a comfortable, if not a 
 luxurious, scale. The majority of its members 
 are connt-cted with the best families in England 
 and Scotland, and live here in a lordly style. 
 Here tliey freely associate with men of humble 
 origin, but pursi,,ne: the >anie calling as ihem- 
 selve«. Thus the scions of noble houses and aiis- 
 t' . atic families have here wisely and judiciously 
 renounced all class distinctions. The advantages 
 of !?uch a social club, in such an important centre 
 asOalgory, can scarcely be realised. It tends to 
 make lite, otherwise monotonous and dreary, 
 extremely enjoyable and i)leasanfe. An intro- 
 duction to ttie club will prove most useful to the 
 to\irist. He will, at least, be most hosi)itably 
 entertaini-H, and it may probably lead to his 
 receiving a cordial welcome to visit one of the 
 extensive latiches in the neighbourhood. In the 
 spring and autumn the ranchmen all join in a 
 " round up." To gather and separate the animals, 
 according to the brands of the different owners, is 
 the glory of the "cowboy."' To see the riders 
 "cutting out" the animals from the couimon herd, 
 lassoing and throwing them out in order that they 
 may be marked with the owner's brand, or hand- 
 ling a dr(jve of wild unbroken horses, is a bcene 
 not easily forgcjtt.en, and more than coinpensatt s 
 for the fatigue and loss of time occisionedby a 
 visitto.the ranch. Theranchers are splendid riders, 
 who love the ranch with its active life and un- 
 limited opportunities for sport, as well as its entire 
 disregard to the useless formalities to which the 
 society of the old country necessarily clings. 
 Some idea of the enormous extent of the ranching 
 
55 
 
 
 country may be formed froui the f«ct that it 
 mea.sures over 90,000 wquare miles. Tlie foot of 
 the hills and tho plains are carpeted with rich 
 buffalo and other grasses, on wliich cattle and 
 horses live, thrive, and fatten summer and winter 
 without any shelter save what the nature of the 
 undulating plains afford. The snow does not lie 
 long, nor is it ever \ery deej). The ranchers 
 cut an.i stack large quantities of hay in order to 
 be prepared for emergencies. The i)ioneeis of 
 cattle ranching have devoted much valuable time 
 and money to the introduction of well-bred horses 
 and cattle. Thus a superior class of stock is always 
 maintained on the best ranches. 
 
 Calgary forms a centre for the railway branch 
 line that runs north to Edmonton and south t;) 
 Fort M'Leod. Both branches ttirow open new 
 and extensive districts, which comprise some of 
 the richest and finest land in the North-West, and 
 is now attracting many settlers, who, in com- 
 parison with the wooded part of Canada, find it 
 extremely siiitable and profitable for cultivation 
 and the prosecution of mixed farming. Those 
 who have been settled here for s nne time declare 
 that the fertility of the land, opened up on either 
 side by these two railway branch lines, is unsur- 
 passed. Wonderful crops are produced, and the 
 climate is suitable, thus rendering life here both 
 enjoyable and prosperous. JNIarketing facilities 
 are within reasonable distances. The producer 
 being at no great distance from the railway, may 
 have the result of his lab )urs, whether in wheat or 
 cattle, tratisferred by rail to the east or west coast 
 for shipntent. There is not a more excellent 
 country in the new world than ttiat around 
 Calgary for mixed farming, and none with a m(^re 
 varied and charming scenery, or a more bracing 
 and exhilarating climate. It abounds in all kinds 
 of game for sport and horsemanship, and all that 
 is capable of rnakinfj life what it was originally 
 intended to be. 
 
 Having now traversed the prairie from east to 
 west, it may be stated generally that though 
 apparently it is as level as a billiard table yet in 
 reality it is a sloping country rising gradually 
 towards the Rocky -Mountains. Some of the 
 buildings and houic-'Steads are comparatively 
 small, and sometimes do not add much to 
 the natural beauty of the prairie. In many 
 
56 
 
 iiiistfinces they reseiiiblH the small faln»lll)^ls(^<^ of 
 tlif hnrno couiitry. Tlu' praiiie is specially fitted 
 for wlinat growing and catt't- raising. The 
 inducements to grow whuit, which res\ilted 
 generally in enormous returns, were such that it 
 is not to be wondend at that settlers should 
 iarg^ly avail themselves of it. It paid the 
 producer well for a time, but soon the market 
 became overstocked, and prices lell to such an ex- 
 tent that at present it scarcely iKiys the labour. 
 The fall is due, not to want of richness in the soil, 
 but to the overflow in the Uiarket. Threshing 
 machines go about the country niuch in the same 
 manner as at home, and charge fiom 1^1 to l^d 
 per bushel. The stubble is \ised for firing the 
 engine. Some of the farmeis club together and 
 procure a threshing mill for themselves. 
 
 The prairie soil is the richest in the world. It 
 has been discovered by analysis that the richness 
 is due to the gathering of the droppings of myriad 
 birds and animals that roamed undisturbed and at 
 large over it for thousands of years, also to the 
 ashes of prairie tires that swept over it from time 
 to time, together with the decayed animal and 
 vegetable matter which have accunmlate 1 forages 
 on the clay sub-soil. It is to this stored-up 
 wealth in the soil that the settler is invited to look 
 for a successful return to all his labours. The 
 gcruf is pretty tough, and a team of oxen will draw 
 the ploiigh steadier and for a longer period than a 
 pair of horses. It is equally well adapted for 
 raising potatoes and other vegetables, especially 
 cabbage and cauliflower, « ithout the assistance of 
 anything in the shai)e of nianuie. The potato 
 sjilits are laid in the furrow and covered over with 
 the grass side of the sod. They are left in this 
 state till ripe and ready for consumption. The 
 yield from this simple process is nmrvellous, and 
 the potatoes are not only numerous, but of a large 
 size, dry, and mealy, so that they command the 
 highest prices in the market. The native grasses 
 are nutritive, and good for fattening cattle. The 
 alternate sectio.is on either side of the line for 
 some tvventy-four miles inland belong to the 
 Can.adian Pacific Railway Company, the others to 
 the Government, and special facilities are offered 
 by both to intending settlers. Rivers and lakes 
 are numeious, and water may be found anywhere 
 over the prairie by digging wells from sixteen to 
 
m 
 
 twenty-three feet deep. Wnod for fuel can be 
 procured at muderate rates, and exlenHive 
 arratigeiTients are in proces.s for bringini,' coal at 
 I easonable prices within easy reacli. Manitoba and 
 the western countries abound in good C(iaI,oiie .Heani 
 of which alone is two hundred miles bt( ul. Tlie 
 tendency all over is to prosecute mixed farminj? 
 as more proHtable and reliable. The farmers rear 
 h()rse8, cattle, sheep, pigs, and poultry. Thus, 
 when prices are low for one kind of stock or prain, 
 they may be high in others. Mixed fu.ming is 
 also a protection against such disasters as were 
 brought about by an over-productii.n of grain. 
 Such is the general character of the rolling country 
 ^xtendirjg between Winnipeg and the Rocky 
 Mountains, the area of which is over two hundred 
 million acres, suitable more or less for agricultural 
 l»urposes. It nuiy be here stated that at the 
 Chicago Exhibition Canada took all the leading 
 prizes for dairy pro lucts, especially for cheese, 
 and much more than her share for cattle, horses, 
 and sheep of all kinds. This was a great surprise 
 and disappoiniment to all, and especiully to 
 Americans, who have no love for the Dominion. 
 But Canada has been prominently brought to the 
 front by the exhibition awards, and is more than 
 likely in the future to fully maintain her own in 
 all the leading markets of the world. As to the 
 general character of the climate, it is warm in 
 summer atul cold in winter. The seasons are 
 subject to the climatic changes of all countries. 
 The atmosphere is dry, clear, bright, free from 
 damp, and extremely bracing. It is considered 
 the healthiest climate in the world, pleasant to 
 live in, free from malaria and other diseases, and 
 especially so from rheumatics and chest com- 
 j)hvints. Native horses and cattln thrive out even 
 in winter. In spring rainfalls are frequent, but 
 the summer and autumn are com|)aratively dry. 
 There are, however, occasional fr(>sts in August 
 and September, and these the farmers have good 
 reason to fear and dread. The intense frost and 
 snow in the winter are almost necessary to secure 
 a good crop in autumn. The iiloughing, which is 
 generally done towards the end of harvest, is left 
 so for the winter, when the soil is broken and 
 pulverised by the frost, without which the yield 
 would not be nearly so heavy. The fiost is thus 
 of incalculable value to the success of the farmer. 
 
0S 
 
 Those intiTOnted will likoly wish to know nome- 
 tliing of the Hchool Hysttiu of the l)airiinion, ami 
 let Till* rt".. T to it h(Tt'. Tlif cdncatiojifil machiti- 
 try ill Canada is most uonipU'ti', and all legiftlatioit, 
 thereupon, is in thu handsot the Govorntnt-nt of the 
 several provinces. Tluy ni;ike admirable arranpre- 
 ineiits to meet all tlif reniiireinents of the 
 immediate provinc*', with tlie result that ni> 
 country can boast of Uie sanie extended educa- 
 titmal facilities. In every township two sections, 
 640 acres eacli, of land are held in trust by the 
 Dominion (ioveniment as school lands. The 
 ♦•evenue derived from these, in the shape of feus, 
 &c., augmented by (Joverninent grants, provide 
 for the teaching staff. Wherever, therefore, a 
 new settlement is started, and a school is required, 
 the Government at once establishes one, free to 
 all, provided that no less than ten children, from 
 five to twenty years of age, are in the district. 
 The poorest has equal riglits and privileges with 
 the richest. The schools are national, and do not 
 rtcdgriise the religious differences of the people — 
 unless in very special circumstances. Their 
 superintendence is in the hands of the leading 
 educators of the country, who are responsible for 
 their being inspected twice a year by officials ap- 
 pointed for the purpose. The teachers must 
 undergo a course ot training, and receive a 
 Government certificate, before they can be 
 recognised as competent lo teach. In addition 
 to the public schools there are also collegiate 
 institutes, maintained at the public expense, and 
 free to all. When pupils have compK'ted their 
 education in the former they are prepared to 
 enter the latter for training in the higher branches 
 of study to qualify for entrance to the Normal 
 Schools and Universities. The Professors and 
 teachers are generally distinguished for their 
 culture and ability. Private schools and 
 academies are also to be found in the Dominion. 
 
 Sunday Schools are general throughout the 
 country in connection with the differentdenomina- 
 tions. For tlie children's accommodation and 
 convenience the churches are well equipped with 
 halls, &c. But there are many union schools 
 where the children of Christian parents of all 
 creeds attend one Sunday School. The children 
 have their picnics, trips, and soirees as at home. 
 There is therefore ample, liberal, and free pro..- 
 
 
59 
 
 bion made for eiliicaliou. Whorevur and whenever 
 a settlement is started, a .school is established fr< .« 
 to all, and it is universally followed by the 
 erection of a church or mission, so that the Sab- 
 bath bell is heard calling the p"ov)le to the 
 worship of the Father of all. In Canada iIih 
 Sabbatlj is observed fully as well as in the old 
 country, and the visitor is surprised at the still- 
 ness and peacefulness that reign on the hallowed 
 morning, the devotional attitude of th" neople, 
 an(i the regularity of their attendai. - ; 1; the 
 churches. In this respect we may well tul.e a leaf 
 out of their book as reganis church-going, Sabbath 
 observance. Sabbath school organisations, and 
 their educational system. 
 
 Across the Rockies. 
 
 Leaving Calgary, and pursuuv our journey 
 westwards, the river terraces, icothills, and 
 ranches, already d.-scribed, aru p.i; .-d in rapid 
 succession. Large herds of horses .nay be aeeu 
 grazing on the valleys, cattle on the t-yrraces, and 
 flocks of sheep on the hill-tops, all affording a 
 novel and interesting source of pleasure to the 
 F-dsengers. But surpassing in beauty and delight 
 all the views of the low country is the first near 
 prospect of the awe-inspiring glory of the snow- 
 covered Rocky Mountains. After passing Coch- 
 rane Station, the line ascevids to the top or the 
 first terrace, and a splendid view is obtained tf the 
 left, where the foot hills are seen to as- ) u 
 successive tiers of what seem to be sculptured 
 heights up to the snow-line. " By-and-by f^e 
 wide valle-'s change into broken ravines, and lo ! 
 through an opening in the midst, made rosy with 
 early sunlight, we see, far away up in the sky, its 
 delicate ))oarly tip clear against the blue, a single 
 snow-peak of the Rocky Mountains. . . . Our 
 coariie natures cannot at first appreciate the 
 exquisite aerial grace of that solitary peak that 
 seems on its way to heaven ; bat, as we Jook, 
 gauzy mist passes over, and it has vanished. In 
 approaching the Gap, the mountains appear im- 
 penetrable, and seem to form a barrier of 
 grandeur and immensity. The bases of the lofty 
 range, as seen by the approaching traveller, are 
 deeply tinted in purple, their slopes tinged with 
 white and gold, and the".; summits clothed with 
 eternal snow, or shrouded in flying clouds of mist. 
 
GO 
 
 As the train enters fairly upon the great high- 
 way to the workl-reiiowned Rockies, and nears 
 the Gap station, the B )\v River is seen issuing 
 from the hills and rolling down through a narrow 
 defile between twoerreat mountain ranges. Then a 
 magnificent spectacle bursts upon the view, where 
 on the left, the Three Sisters and Wind Mountains 
 are seen to tower majestical'y aloft as if they were 
 seeking to lose themselves in heaven. The con- 
 trar^t between these a ^d the ranges farther on is 
 remarkable. To the ri^dit are fantastically broken 
 and castellated heights, down whose sides dash 
 foaming cascaies, some of them several thousand 
 feet 111 height. On the left again, as we advance, 
 tremendous snow-covered peaks, penetrated by 
 deep-cut reces.^es, are seen, in which the light and 
 shadow falling upon the glittering snow makes 
 them often assiime a gorgeous colouring of vary- 
 ing rainbow hues. Glorious glimpses of glaciers 
 and other strange sights may be caught, and now 
 and again mountain sheep and wild goats apppar 
 leisurely grazing on the rugged cliffs above. The 
 mountains visible are tremendous uplifts of 
 stratined rocks of the Devonian and Carboniferous 
 strata, which have burst up through the crust of 
 the ear,h. and have heaved themselves aloft 
 borne sections, miles and miles broad and thou- 
 sands of feet thick, have btf.-n forced straight up- 
 wards, so that their strata continues to rise in the 
 same direction as it was originally; others are 
 tossed .,n edge, and lie in a steeply slanting posi- 
 tion ; other sections lo )k as if they had been bent 
 by a terrible side pressure, but all have been 
 broken (iown and worn away more or less, so that 
 now they remain colossal fragi-n^Us of the first 
 tremendous upheavals. The disturb'.^d statifica- 
 tion may be noticed on the face of the cliffs by 
 the lines of trees struggling for a scanty foothold, 
 nr by ohe ledges that retained the snows which 
 have vanished from the place in close proximity. 
 1 he scenery in all directions is splendid: it is 
 terrific in its grandeur, and baffles all description. 
 At Anthracite Station, overshadowed by the 
 Cascade Mountains, are large coal mines yielding 
 the ^•^^yi'iality Lady Macdonald thus describes 
 the outlook-" Here the pass we ar*. travelling 
 throucch has narrowed suddenly to four miles, and. 
 as mists Hoat upwards and away, we see great 
 masses ot scarred r(>ck rising on each side-ranges 
 
GJ 
 
 towering one above the other. Very striking and 
 Uiagnificent grows the prospect ao we penetrate 
 into the mountains at last, each cur .e of the line 
 bnnguig fresh vi.ta.s of endUss peaks rolling away 
 befoie and around us, all tinted rose, blush-pink, 
 and silver, as the sun lights their snowy tins 
 ilivery turn becomes a fresh myste.y, for some 
 huge mountain seems to stand "right across our 
 way, barring it for miles, with a stern face fi own- 
 ing down upon us ; and yet a few minutes later 
 we hnd the giant has been encircl-d and conquered 
 and soon lies far away in another directior " ' 
 _ Banflf Station, situated in the midst of impres- 
 sive mountain scenery, is soon reached. 
 
 Banff. 
 
 has already earned a world-wide reputation from 
 Its hot and sulphurous springs, which, oa account 
 ot their curative qualities are attracting 
 thousands of tourists from all parts of the world 
 J or miles around thc^ Canadian Government have 
 reserved this supremely beautiful country as a 
 national park, m the centre of which a commodious 
 and luxuriously appointed hotel has been erected 
 by the Canadian Pacific Railway Company for the 
 accommodation of the tou-ists who Hock thither. 
 Ihe mountain, forest, vallev, and river scenery 
 within sight of the hotel" is without rival. 
 Bridle paths and well-made carriage roads lead in 
 all directijns. The impression left by the grand 
 and varied scenery that appears all r.nind can 
 never be era.-.ed from the memory. The hotel is 
 well fitted up with baths, ai d near it is a circular 
 pavilion for resting, smoking, &c. The spiings 
 have been vastly improved by the (Tovernment, 
 and attendants are placed by it in charge of all 
 tM bathing houses. At no great distance from the 
 village of Banff is a hot circular pool covered by 
 a dome-roo/ed cave with a hole on the top, which 
 admits buflScient light, while in the near vicinity 
 IS an open basin of warm sulphurous water. 
 Banff IS a famous centre for mountain-climbing 
 and for excursions on river and lake, in which 
 abundance of trout are to be found. On the sur- 
 rounding heights are wild sheep, goats, and other 
 animals, as well as game of various ^...ds. 
 Resuming our journey west, the train passes 
 through a thickly-wooded valley and skirts Ver- 
 million Lakes, while in front are enormous snow 
 
G2 
 
 i I 
 
 and ice ledges hanging to the mountains, o>- rest- 
 ing on the deep creviees. After passing Castle 
 Mountajn and Eldon Stations the mountains on 
 either side look grand and bold in the extreme. 
 The loftiest and grandest in the whole i):inorama 
 of vision is the helmc^t-.-haped mount called 
 Lefroy. The next station is Laggan, thirty-four 
 miles west of Banff. This is the depot for the 
 Lakes in the Clouds, which are largely frequented 
 by tourists. The lakes should by aU niaans be 
 visited, for they are extremely interesting and 
 picturesque. Ho: es and vehicles are in attend- 
 ance at all the trains to convey travellers to a small 
 chalet, where lunch may be taken and a bed for 
 the night may also be had. The chalet is 
 situated on the margin of Lake Louise. The first 
 of the great glaciers can be seen from it lying on 
 the side of the mountain s. ii,e 1300 feet above the 
 level where w© now stand. 8tepljen Station is 
 the next halting-place. It is 5296 feet above sea 
 level, and is the summit station of tha Rocky 
 INIountains, though by no means the summit of the 
 mountains, for the snow-covered mountains tower 
 from 5000 to 8000 feet above the level (,f this sta- 
 tion. From this the train rajiidly descends, 
 passing some beautiful emerald lakes, and then a 
 tortuous gorge deeply cut in the rocks is crossed. 
 Here the water is seen foaming far below and 
 dashing down the gorge with enormous force. 
 This canyon is known as Wapta, o»- Kir 'ng 
 Horse Pass. The scenery here I can only describe 
 as terrible. The line cliiigs fast to the'mountai.T 
 side, and winds its way down towards th(^ valley. 
 Avvay to the north glacier-bound peaks are 
 vis-ible, and almost overhead is a glacier shining 
 like green ice, some 800 feet in thickness, and 
 gradually falling over a sheer precipice of dizzy 
 ho'ight. The line still continues to ft)llow the 
 river, crossing and recrossing deep gorges, gliding 
 over rocky sjjurs, and passing babbling brooks, 
 beautiful lakelets, and splendid forests. Soon a 
 sawmill, a slate quarry, and other signs of indus- 
 try are seen, and as quickly left behind ; and we 
 plunge through a tremendous gorge whose frown- 
 ing cliiFs are 1000 feet high ai.d seem to overhang 
 the boiling, roaring stream at the base. Through 
 this awful chasm the railway and the river struggle 
 together, "the former crossing from side to side 
 to ledges cut out of the solid rock and twisting 
 
 
03 
 
 and turning in every direction, and ev^rv i>,imite 
 or two plunging through projecting angles of ro 'c 
 which seem t<, clos; the way. With t(?e towering 
 chffs almost shutting out the sunlight, and the 
 roar of the river and the train increase 1 an 
 hundredfold by the echoing walls, the p^/aie o 
 this terrible gorge will never be forgotten." It 
 then suddenly widens out, and there stand boldly 
 in front, against the clear blue sky, a jagged line 
 of snow-clad peaks of new colours and various 
 forms. In the dense forest-clad valley which in- 
 tervenes flows the noble Columbia river. These 
 are thn famous Selkirk Mountains, differing widely 
 in aspect, but all indescribably grand. At last we 
 reach Golden Station. Golden is a mining town 
 bu.lb on the bank of the Columbia at the mouth 
 of the A/apta. Gold and silver mines are worked 
 with considerable success in the n^ar vicinity 
 ±rom this place a steamer sails up the Columbia 
 to the lakes at the head of the river. It is a 
 favourite trip for sportsmen, and the scenery all 
 along IS most beautiful. 
 
 Leaving Golden the train sweeps thrt)Uo-h a deep 
 narrow gorge, from which it emerges at Beaver- 
 mouth, and enters the Selkirks ttircMgh the gate 
 of Leaver river. Here the p:>ssage is so narrow 
 that a felled tree can be utilised to bridge it over 
 and the river makes a final mad plunge into the 
 Columbia. 1 he train now commences to climb th- 
 shoulder of the Selkirks, through dense forests of 
 enormous trees, till it arrives at the summit. 
 Here is a broad, level area shut in by mountain 
 monarchs, held in the deadly grasp of the eternal 
 glaciers. Between here and Bear Creek the snow 
 in the winter occasioned the greatest dangers to 
 the railway, but these difficulties were completely 
 overcome by the -onstruetion of sheds or tunnels 
 of heavy timber fitted and bolted into the moun- 
 tain side in such a manner as to bid defiance to 
 the most terrific avalanche. These tunnels, as you 
 can well snppose, were erected at great expense. 
 
 Descend 1-/ from the sunimit of the Selkirks and 
 passing thr-iugh scenery awful ..nd overpowering 
 m Its grandeur, we at last arrive at Glacier House, 
 at the foot of Sir Donald, the grandest of the Sel- 
 kirk peaks, shooting up nearly 8000 feet, like a 
 ])yramid of naked rock. This majestic and 
 glorious mountain ^vas called after Sir Donald 
 Smith, one of the chief promoters of the Canadian 
 
G-i 
 
 Pacific Railway. The hole! at (Jlacit-r House lias 
 beeji erected ty thr Railway Company, is very 
 comt'oi'table, and tourists would find a coui)1h (if 
 days' stay here to be most interestii)g ami delight- 
 ful. Facilities are afforded for visiting the 
 glaciers around, especially the great glacier, and 
 for exploring the mountains, as well as for hunting 
 bears, goats, and other wild animals, or having 
 some sport amongst the game, which is here very 
 abundant. The Illicillivvaet, with its ])ea-greeii- 
 coloured waters from the glaciers, can be seen 
 from [ipre. Resuming our journey for hours, the 
 train plunges through marvellous scenery, 
 precipitous gorges, and again crosses the Columbia 
 River. It is wider and deeper here, and is navi- 
 gated by comfortable steamers southward for 
 about 200 n)iles. 
 
 Ravelstoke, on tlie bank of the Columb'a, 
 vvhich has made a great detour round the north- 
 eastern extremity of the Selkirk's, looks splendid. 
 The Kootenay district, which is row entered, 
 abounds in gold, silver, and copper mines, and is 
 within easy reach by rail or steamer. The lake 
 and uountain scenery in this part of the country 
 is superb, Purs\u'ng our journey westward, we 
 are next confronted by the Gold Range, a grand 
 series of snow-clad peaks, broken across by a deep 
 ravine, through which the train jjlunges, till a 
 sudden flash of light indicates that it has emerged 
 from the dark, precipitous jiass. Then many lakes 
 come m sight, bur, the view being intercepted by 
 the abruptly-rising mountains, they are lost again 
 in a few minutes, 
 
 Okanagan Lake district is not far distant from 
 this part. As we proceed, the valley of the Sonth 
 Thompson River is so in reached, and, from what 
 I saw. It a-.'pears to be largely taken up with 
 cattle-ranchmg and farming. At Craigellachie 
 the last spike in the Canadian Pacific Railway was 
 dri\"n HI on 7th .Sovember, 1885 ; the rails from 
 east and west meet here. Then we sweep into 
 Kamloops, the most iuijjortant town in the 
 interior of British Columbia, with over 2000 of a 
 population. The district is famous for ranching 
 and fruit-growing, and abounds in minerals. 
 Lenving Kamloops behind, the train shoots 
 through tunnel after tunnel, with scarred and 
 rugged mountains frowning down upon it, and 
 far below a foaming river, till, quickly crossing 
 
65 
 
 thft deep, dark govge of the Fraaer River on a steel 
 bridge, which boka like a fairy bridge hung in 
 mid-air, lb rushes through a tunnel and enters the 
 famous Iraser Canyon. The scenery now on all 
 hands is grand and wild. Through this gorge so 
 narrow and deep that the raya of the sun seldom 
 or never penetrate its dark recesses, the fierce and 
 foaming waters of the noble river plough their 
 nn.ighty way. The railway line ia stuck into the 
 face of the tremendous cliffs, at a height of several 
 hundred feet above the angry, whirling waters. A 
 safe road is here made for the train, which sweeps 
 now over terrible chasms by means of tall and airy- 
 looking viaducts, and now through tunnels cut in 
 the overhanging rocks ; and all along the 
 passengers are being constantly deafened by the 
 roar of the waters below. Yet, notwithstanding 
 the apparently dangerous and bewildering situa- 
 tion, there is a feeling of entire safety, and the 
 scene, r^hich is altogether fascinating by reason of 
 Its terror, is very regretfully lefb behind as we 
 enter Yale. 
 
 Yale has a population of 1500. The ranchers 
 and miners of the district receive their outfittings 
 from the town, which is the head of the naviga- 
 tion of the Fraser River. Chinamen may be seen 
 washing gold on the sand-bars, with their boat 
 high and dry on the shore beside them. This 
 operation is generally carried on by two men. The 
 one is in charge of the gold-washing machine at 
 the water edge, the other carries from a short 
 distance quantities of sand and rubble to supply 
 the machine, so to speak. The work is carried on 
 all day, from sunrise till dusk, when the few 
 grains they may have succeeded in collecting is 
 carried safely home with them in the boat. Their 
 dwellings are visible on the opposite bank, and 
 their Joss House also is conspicuous in the 
 hamlet. Indians may be seen herding cattle in the 
 meadows or fishing for salmon on the river. This 
 last operation is also carried on by two men. The 
 one is provided with a bag net fixed to a loop of 
 wood resembling a snow-shoe in shape, and that is 
 firmly attached to a long pole. The other stands 
 on a cliff above ready to receive and despatch thu 
 fish. Armed with this long pole and net the 
 fisher takes his stand on a lodge of rock near an 
 eddy formed by an outlying rock or boulder, and 
 HO far up stream as he can reach he lets 
 
66 
 
 the net drop into the water, and, with a quick 
 sweep down past where he stands, ho lifts t out 
 of thn water. If a fish appears in the net, he 
 holds it up to the man above, who takes it out, 
 kills, and splits it. An enormous quantity of 
 salmon is caught in this way. After being split 
 up, they are hung to dry in rows on long poles, 
 somewhat similar to those used at home for drying 
 nets, but not so high. Thus they are dried and 
 cured in the open air, though in some cases a light 
 roof is thrown ever the Jryinj; poles. This cured 
 salmon is the provision made by the Indian for 
 his winter store. Hi8"br<^ad and water" may 
 fail him, but assuredly his fish and water never 
 fail him. As the season^^ come round, so does the 
 rush of salmon in thi river, and that in such 
 enormous shoals that they may even be seen some- 
 times to crush each other in larg' numbers out of 
 the water on to the dry bank. The visi'- will 
 also be interested in the curious looking grave- 
 yards of the Indians, neatly enclosed and decorated 
 with banners, streamers, &c., which are to be 
 seen along the line now and again. Chinese 
 and Indian villages are pasb> d in close succes- 
 sion. 
 
 Mount Baker, a gleaming white cone, rising 
 some 13,000 feet above the railway level, stands 
 proudly towards the south. As the valley widens 
 out, farms and orchards are ronstantly within 
 sight ; and, as we approach the i oast, wo find the 
 climate becomes as mild as that of the south of 
 England, but with more suns^hine. The glimpses 
 which WG get of the Fraser river show that it has 
 now become smooth and glassy, with an occasional 
 steamer plying upon it, while in many places its 
 waters are dotted with Indian canots engaged in 
 salmon catching. Large cannaries are erected 
 along its banks. In these many are employed in 
 preparingthe salmon for preservation in tins, which 
 aredespatchedtualltheleadingmarketsoftheworld. 
 After passing through a forest of huge trei s, some 
 300 feet high and twelve or more feet in diameter, 
 we arrive at the tide-wateis of the Paeific at the 
 eastern extremity of I'.urrard Inlet. Sweeping 
 down the shore of this mountain-girt inlet, 
 our train rolls into Vancouver Station, the 
 western terminus of the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway. 
 
 
 9S 
 
 
67 
 
 Vancouver. 
 
 This beautiful town has a population of over 
 20,000, and bids woU to become one of the most 
 famous cities in America. As recently as 1886 
 the site on which it stands was covered with dense 
 forests. In June of the same year a terrible and 
 destructive fire sivepb every house in the old town, 
 witli one exception, out of existence. The build- 
 ings were all of wood, but ere the embers of the 
 conflagration died out materials for the recon- 
 struction of the buildings were on their way, and 
 the old erections were replaced by grand and 
 substantial blocks of stone, brick, and iron. The 
 large transportation interests, which were estab- 
 lished at Vancouver in 1887, gave the town such a 
 tremendous impetus that moat of the timber was 
 cleared away, broad streets were formed, and 
 electric cars placed upon them. The Hotel Van- 
 couver for comfort, luxury, and excellence of 
 service is among the best on the continent, while 
 the Opera House is unsurpassed by any outside 
 New York. There are churches, schools, hospitals, 
 and all the other public buildings that are the 
 precursors of a great commercial centre. The 
 whole town is laid out on a magnificent scale. It 
 is surrounded by a country of rare beauty, 
 enjoying a climate milder and less varying 
 than that of the south of England. To the 
 north, close at hand, are the Cascade Mountains ; 
 to the west over the channel are the moun- 
 tains of Vancouver Island ; to the south- 
 west the Olympics, and towards the south-east the 
 majestic Mount Baker. The town is thus pro- 
 tected on every side, while the fresh sea breeze 
 from the Straits of Georgia is most enjoyable. 
 The situation as regards i>icturesqueness, harbour 
 facilities, commercial advantagws, and natural 
 drainage is perfect. It has splendid and in- 
 exhaustible water supply brought in pipes laid 
 under the inlet from a muiuituin streaiii on the 
 oppufsite (^ide. There are very extensive wharves, 
 wareliiiUHis, uiid a cummodious harbour. Hut in 
 addition to the great transportation of the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway Company by land, the 
 same enterprising Company has established a line 
 of steamers between Vancouver, Japan, and 
 China. These art! magnificent steel ships designed 
 for the trade, and fitted up in a most luxurious 
 
68 
 
 style. They are so constructed that, in case of 
 emergency, they can readily be converted on the 
 .shortest of notice into war cruisers. The route 
 thus opened up shortens the journey to the placns 
 indicated by three weeks. There are daily 
 steamers to Victoria and connection is made with 
 all Puget Sound ports, Portland, and San-Fran- 
 cisco by land and sea, and new systems are in 
 operation to bring "Vancouver into even closer 
 connection with all the leading towns on the 
 Pacific Coast. The country extending towards 
 the Fraser river has splendid farms and is specially 
 adapted for fruit growing. The sport is unlimited 
 by sea and land, while coal is supplied in abund- 
 ance from across the Sound. The progress and 
 prosrerity of Vancouver is beyond the limits of 
 speculation. The natural position it occupies, 
 and the natural facilities it enjoys, are bound 
 to make it, what it is destined to be, one of the 
 leading towns of the world. 
 
 Vancouver is connected with Naw Westminster 
 by electric cars. This thriving and flourishing 
 little town has over 8000 of a population. It was 
 founded by Colonel Moody during the gold ex- 
 citement in 1858, and now has many new and 
 beautiful buildings. It is the her.dquarters of the 
 salmon-canning industry, and the importance of 
 the trade may be gathered f.om the fact that from 
 five to eight thousand men are employed at it dur- 
 ing the fishing season. The agricultural interests 
 of the district are coming rapidly to the front 
 and giving the city additional stability. There is 
 also an extensive lumber trade. The Provincial 
 Penitentiary and Insane Asylum are at New 
 Westminster. These establishments are conducted 
 III first-class style, and are under the general 
 superintendence of Dr Bentley, who has thrown 
 his whole heart and soul into the work, with the 
 result thut he has earned for himself ji wide repu- 
 tation and the respect and confidence of all who 
 come in conlacb with him. The religious over- 
 sight (if the establis^hmeiit is in thf hands of the 
 venerable Arc;hdeacon Woods, a true specimen of 
 what a man of his dignity and position should be. 
 The noble Fraser River sweeps majestically past 
 in front of the town, and the outlook on mountain, 
 valley, wood, and forest is exquisite. 
 
 Returning from New We.stminster to Van- 
 couver, and going on board one of the new Clyde- 
 
69 
 
 built steamers, a five-hours' sail through a moat 
 lovely archipHlago, with scenery of the grandest 
 description spreading in every direction brings 
 us to 
 
 Victoria, 
 
 the capital of British Columbia. It has a popula- 
 tion of over 20,000, and is beautifully situated at 
 the southern extremity of Vancouver Island, 
 which is 300 miles long, with an average of 50 
 miles broad. Originally a stockaded post of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, it received a special 
 impetus in 1858, when the discovery of gold on the 
 mainland brought a rush of miners from the south 
 by vessels to Victoria, from which they crossed 
 the channel in canoes. The declivity on which 
 the city is built rises gradually from an arm of the 
 sea, which forms a splendid harbour. The harbour 
 is well protected by the formation of the land, and 
 is capable of accommodating and sheltering in the 
 roughest weather the largest vessels and steamers 
 that sail the Pacific Ocean. There are no 
 dangerous rocks at the entrance, while the 
 wharves are excellent, with sufficient water depth 
 to enable ships of any she to come alongside. The 
 wharves as well as the town are lighted by 
 electricity. On landing the tourist is struck with 
 the purely English character of the city and its 
 inhabitants. 
 
 The business streets of Victoria are wide and 
 handsome, regard being always had not, if possible, 
 to concentrate the business life of the *own into one 
 street, as is common in many cities. It h worthy 
 of notice that nine-tenths of the city residents 
 own their own houses, and, if engagtid ni business, 
 their business property as well. The wealthiest 
 citizens have erected magnificent homes ou the 
 heights around in the near vicinity. In the town 
 are fine blocks and beautiful private residences. 
 The churches show great architectural taste and 
 beauty, as do also the colleges, schools, hospitals, 
 hotels, and other public establishments. There 
 are two excellent clubs where accredited strangers 
 are hospitably entertained by the Victorians. 
 Manufacturing industries are ytarly growing in 
 extent and importance. There are mills of avery 
 description, iron works surpassed only by those 
 of San Francisco, and half-a-dozen breweries. 
 
I 
 
 70 
 
 Socially, Victoria offers attractions which can 
 scarc'ely b. excelled. Hero are the Parliament 
 Jiinldings, Courts, and Government Offices of the 
 1 rovince, as well as the headquarters of Her 
 JVIajPsty s fleet in the North Pacific. The naval 
 otticers are always available for festivities, and 
 their presence adds to the social pleasures of the 
 c'^^y* The citizens are highly cultured, due no 
 doubt to the splendid advantages for education 
 and rehnement afforded by the town. 
 
 There are beautiful drives in the neighbour- 
 hood, and the natives are truly proud of Beacon 
 flUl Park. It consists of several hundred acres, 
 intersected with carriage drives lined with oak 
 trees in some partK and closely wooded in others. 
 In the park are a few dmall lakes, on which wild 
 fowl may be seen, while the bear pit and deer pen 
 present some fine native specimens. A part of 
 the park IS utilized as a recreation ground for the 
 city, cricket, football, baseball, lacrosse, and such 
 games being here freely indulged in. On Sunday 
 atternoon the people turn-out to hear the b-nd, 
 when the park presents a gay and fashionable 
 appearance. 
 
 Victoria transacts an enormous business with 
 the mainland, and is the main centre for the 
 salnaon fishinp', which utilizes a special fleet of 
 sailing vessels alone. It is also a celebrated 
 centre for the seal industry, and for all the mines 
 on the island-gold, silver, coal, and quicksilver 
 are all to be found. Farming and other branches 
 or agriculture, such as hock raising, fruitgrowing, 
 sheep and cattle rearing, are prosecuted with 
 considerable success, but the soil and 
 climate are more adapted for fruit 
 than for agriculture. A railway line extends 
 north-eas'o to Nanaimo, celebra d for its coal 
 mines, while the electric car goes to EHiuimault. 
 where the hnest harbour in the island is, and 
 where the British warships usually lie. The naval 
 yard and dry dock— the latter capable of accom- 
 modating the largest ships that ride the seas- 
 should be inspected. The scenery about the har- 
 bour IS very beautiful. The climate compares 
 favourably with that of California or the south of 
 i^^ngiand. Ihe summer heat is softened by the 
 breezes from the sea, while the hottest days are 
 followed by cool and pleasant evenings. Victoria 
 is a most picturesque and interesting city. Its 
 
 I 
 
71 
 
 
 SMnic Bplendours are extensive, varied, and un- 
 rivalled. Across the Sound ia the Olympic Range, 
 with its glittering snow-capped and even peaks ex- 
 tending towards the west of Washington State ; 
 to the east beyond Puget Sound is the Cascade 
 Mountain range with its forest-clad foothills. 
 There is Mount Rainier, the pi Jo and glory of 
 Washington, and there is Mount Baker with its 
 gleaming u\antle of eternal snow. To the north 
 are the great ranges of British Columbia with their 
 white peaks, theSelkirks, and the Fraaer, and the 
 Georgian Straits, picturesquely dotted with in- 
 numerable islands, all comprehended in one sweep, 
 and forming an unique panorama. 
 
 No tourist should fail to make the round trip 
 from Victoria to Tacoma and Seattle by Puget 
 Sound. It is scarcely possible to conceive a more 
 charming and interesting sail than that on one of 
 the beautiful and well-appointed steamers placed 
 on the route. 
 
 British Columbia affords little scope for 
 settlers as compared with the north-west, and 
 for those desirous of taking possession, 
 the facilities afforded to intending emigrants are 
 all that could be desired. Free grants of one 
 quarter-section (160 acred) of surveyed agricultural 
 lands may be obtained by any person who is the 
 sole head of a family, or by any male who has at- 
 tained the age of 18 years on application to the 
 local agent of Dominion L?nds for the district 
 in which the parcel applied for is situated, 
 and on payment of an office fee of SiO. 
 The only charge for a homestead of this 
 size is the entrance fee of ton dollars or £2. 
 No farm servant goes to Canada with the intention 
 of continuing to be merely a servant. If he be a 
 good worker, economical and steady in his habits, 
 possessed of some energy and shrewdness, he is 
 bound to become his own master in a few years. 
 A man of this stamp should take up a quarter 
 section, or 160 acres of land, alongside a section 
 already under cultivation, to the owner of which 
 he should engage himself on condition that he 
 should be allowed time, and possibly .assistance, to 
 break and cultivatH so many acres of his own 
 newly acquired land while so employed. He thus 
 learns how to work the soil and adapt himself to 
 tlie methods of the country. A man who starts on 
 this principle is certain of success. Small farmers 
 
-V^ 
 
 72 
 
 or farm labourers, and such ^». !^^\\^''l'\:^^Z\ 
 tomod to agricultural work, witU b 1 o-nwn -up 
 fanulies, able and determined to y -i . le^tly, 
 are specially suitable for emigration, ^ alter 
 the trouble and inconvenience of settluiK *re got 
 over, n ay be almost guaranteed to ''»■ • t on a 
 mfxed farm in the North-West ^ ^g men 
 with a taste for agricultural labour, horse and 
 cattle breeding, possessed of some means, with 
 shrewd and business habits, can scarcely fail 
 to prosper. Bat no man should invest h.s money 
 till he is sure of his grou.id and knows how to 
 work the land. Ample information of the 
 minutest description can be supplied to any 
 ntending -.'ttler, free of charge, by any of the 
 agents. There is thus no reason whatever why he 
 should not fully satisfy himself before leaving 
 homo as to the land most suitable for him, the 
 nature of the climate of the district, the con- 
 venience of water supply, of material for 
 Eding, of feul, of market, of railway 
 station &c &c. All this information 
 it is important to know at the outset, and can be 
 provided. The object of the Gcyernment is not to 
 disappoint settlers after arrival, but to make them 
 as comfortable as possible in order that they may 
 induce more of their friends to follow them into a 
 wider sphere where there are better prospects of 
 Tuccess than the limitations of the old country can 
 afford. But there are other classes of people that 
 it would be utterly wrong to advise to go to 
 Canada, for example, those who have not been 
 more or less accustomed to agricultural labour, 
 those who have been brought up to idle lives in 
 our large cities and towns and who have never 
 followed any regular occupation. These without 
 means will ma«t with little or no encouragement 
 whatever. Neither will those ever «vicceed w ho 
 are not prepared for hard work, or who think 
 that they can live there with their hands in their 
 pockets. Such people will be of no use out there 
 ind they tend to give a bad name to th^ country ot 
 their adoption. There is no country in the wor d 
 that offers better facilities and fairer prospects of 
 success than the North-West of Canada, with its 
 indescribable scenery, unlimited sport, and ot the 
 most fertile description, and capable of accommo- 
 dating and providing in abundance for millions ot 
 our lace-a place where they can acquire posses- 
 
 i 
 
i 
 
 73 
 
 Hions, fit'fdom, and liboity that is ouito unknown 
 in tlie nu)ther country. Cunaiiii altoKetluT ih a 
 grand country to fiKht and htrugple in, with tho 
 licrfHCt assurance that so long as a man works 
 faithfully, and acts honourably, he will nevtr lack 
 .lis daily bread, the comforts of life, and the 
 froodom to think and to act as his conscience and 
 iiis will dictate. . 
 
 Of the rfmainder of my tour in America, 
 I have notes sufficiently full for even more 
 elaborate descriptions than the preceding, 
 but, in presence of other matters of more 
 imperative claims upon my time, they shall have 
 to remain in abeyance meanwhile. Proceeding 
 south from Victoria to California, San Irancisco 
 vvaa entered by the " Goldei; Gate," and, under 
 tho escort of a private detective, a midnight round 
 was accomplished through China-town, the opium 
 dens, the theatre, and Joss House. After seeing 
 the wonderful sights of tho great metropolis some 
 fruit and grain ranches of enormous extent were 
 visited, as was also a gold mine in operation. 
 Then the Sierra Mountains were crossed to Salt 
 Lake City— the famous Mormon town— with its 
 beautiful tabernacle, splendid organ, excellent 
 choir of over 600 members, and crowded congrega- 
 tion of from 7000 to 8000 people. It is said to be 
 the largest and the best attended church in the 
 States. Proceeding by stages east to Colorado 
 Springs and Mainton, near the Garden of the 
 Gods, Pike's Peak, 14,447 feet high was ascended 
 by the highest railway in tho world. Ihence to 
 Denver, continuing east to Chicago, vyhero ten 
 days were spent at the World's Fair, whicii ooked 
 more like a lovely little town than an exhibition. 
 The buildings, which were nearly all white, were 
 simply magnificent, and shone in the bright sun 
 after a shower of rain like polished marble. Ihe 
 '* big show" was a sight and an experience) that 
 can never be forgotten by all who were fortunate 
 fiiough to see it. Thn next important town 
 arrival at was Wahhinglon, the capital ot 
 America. It is laid out on a magnihcent scale 
 with lovely avenues, tine broad streets splendu 
 ear system, substantial blocks and l^^'a"t'tul 
 Government buildings, standing on a h'^h "'!•' 
 and commaudine a grand view. I 1^^^. Washing- 
 ton fur Philadelphia, Baltimore, and New York, 
 where the most of a week was spent, and hnistiea 
 
 Ift 
 
74 
 
 (,tf by visiting the Emigrants' Island and ascend- 
 iuK tl.6 Statu., of Liberty m the harbour before 
 R.,ir,g on board the City of ^oxu^^xrect for Glas- 
 R,)W, where I arrived on the 221 October 1895, 
 after traversing over 16,000 ixnlea by land and 
 water. 
 
 I