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I * 
 
 THE 
 
 LABRADOR PENINSULA 
 
 (UITII A MAP 
 
 BY 
 
 ROBERT BELL, B.A.Sc, M.D, LL.D. 
 
 Geological Survey of Canada. 
 
 From The Scottish Geographical Maga:inc for July 18U5. 
 
■I? 
 
 n'"^ 
 
 (.-t:; 
 
 I 
 
 \ 
 \ 
 
 
 1 
 
TIIK LADKADOR I'KNlXfJl'LA, 
 
 By lioDKUT I;ki.i., V, A. Si., .M.l)., I.L.l)., uf tlie Uoolo-ical Sarvcy 
 
 lit' (";i;i:,ii,i. 
 
 (in/li .7 j\/,'j> .III,/ fnn.<fnil'inu^.) 
 
 Jj'iiinihin, ::-- ,(.' Labiador ]K'iiiiiHul.i Covinis the largo eastern division 
 of the niaiiil:';i(i ji XoiLh Aincriea. In latitUile, its centre is midway 
 between the Gulf of Mexicu and ih nortiiern extremity of tin continent 
 at liellot Strait. It lies between Hudson l!ay ou the west and the 
 Iv'orth Atlautie Ocean on the east, with Hudson Strait on its northern 
 side. The dividing liiu; between this gU'at peninsula and the rest of tlie 
 continent has not yet been autiioritatively dctincd, but it maybe assumed 
 to extend from the mouth of Kuiicrt river at tlie southern extrenuty of 
 Hudson Bay to I.ake St. John at the head of the Saguenay river and 
 fiord; the distance across this neck of land being alsout 350 statute 
 miles. 
 
 Dhucnshms. — As tlius defined, the .southern point if the peninsula at 
 Tadousac ou the St. Lawrence is in latitude 48' 10' and the northern 
 extremity, Capo Wolstenholme, on Hudson Strait, in latitude G2° 35'. 
 I'Vom this cape the slioi'e runs nearly east for 150 miles. The length of 
 the peninsula from north to south is therefore about 1010 English 
 statute miles. A line drawn from Tadousac to Cajie Wolstenholme 
 would run nearly north-north-west, and nicasuic about 1070 statute 
 miles. ^ Tiie eastern coast from ]]clle Isle, in latitude 52 , up to latitude 
 •');)' 30', runs due north, on tiie meridian of 55' 10'. On the opposite, or 
 Hudson Bay, side of the iicniusula, the sea-coast in tlio same latitudes 
 also runs due north, and corresponds with the meridian of TO''. In 
 latitude 53 the peninsula will therefore have a l)ivadth of 1015 
 Knglish statute miles. Cape Jones, where J.une.-; IJay opens out into 
 Hudson IJay proper, is in hm-itude 80 and is the mcst wsterly point 
 of the peninsula. A linr drawn from the Strait of Belle Isle to Cape 
 Jones wuulti measure 1()G5 statute miles, so that Labrador is practically 
 as broad as it is long. 
 
 /l/VY^— The superticial extent of the Labrador peninsula has lieen 
 roughly estimate.l at 4:iO,(K)() square miles. Unless geographical miles 
 
 A 
 
33G 
 
 SCOTTISH OEOORAPHICAI, MAUAZINR. 
 
 iuo intended to be unlerstood in this estimate, it is far too low, for I find 
 on niakini^ a careful computation of the area uf its surface, following the 
 figure of the earth independently of ary map-projection, that its total 
 extent within the boundaries above defined, and including the lakes, i 
 very close upon r)GO,0()0 square English statute miles. In making this com- 
 putation, 1 used the areas of (juadrilaterals of the earth's surface for each 
 degree of longitude in each degree of latitude. This is 4000 sijuare miles 
 greater than the areas of (ireat Britain and Ireland, France, (Jermany, 
 Jjclgium, and Holland combined. The nearest point of this great region, 
 so little known to the British pul)lic, is less than 2000 statute miles from 
 the western shore of Ireland, Belle Isle being only 1750 geographical 
 miles from Malin Head in the northern point of that islanil. The whole 
 peninsula is, of course, under the sovereignty of Great Britain. New- 
 foundland claims about 1-10,000 s(|uare miles, the remaining .120,000 
 belonging to Canada. In the following pages, when the name Labrador 
 is used, it is to be understood as designating the whole peninsula. 
 Throughout the maritime provinces this region is called TJic Labi-ador. 
 
 Sources of Information. — Although many books and papers have 
 been written about various parts of tlie Labrador peninsula, and numerous 
 maps have been published showing portions of its coast-line, the writer 
 is not aware of any general map and description of the whole region, 
 giving the results nl all the exijloiations and investigations whicl have 
 been made up to the present year. Tlie following general account of 
 the country and the accompanying map are intended to supply this want, 
 aa far as possible U may be as well, howrver, for me i.i the first place 
 to mention the .ortunities 1 liave liad of obtaining the neces.sary 
 materials to enable me to write upon tins subject. In I87r>-77 I 
 explored and partly surveyed the western side ot the peninsula, or East 
 Main coast of Hudson Bay, from its southern e.vtninity nearly to Mos- 
 quito Bay. In 1880 I passed through Hudson Strait in the Octaa 
 Nymph, belonging to the Hudson Bay €om[)any, and o!i that occasion 
 had close views of many places along both shores. I was naturalist and 
 medical officer to the expedition sent out to Hudson Strait and Bay by the 
 Government of Canada in 1884-85 in the steamships Nijitunc and Akit, 
 and had opportunities of visiting the southern or I^abrador side of the 
 Strait and of ex[)loring the east coast of Hudson Bay from Cape 
 Wolstenholme southward towards ^Fosquito Bay, thus leaving only a 
 limited gap between the part then examined and that which had l)een 
 explored in 1877. It should be here mentioned, that in the course oi' 
 these different explorations of the East ]\fain coast, I made limited 
 excursions inland in numerous places, either on foot or by the rivers, 
 which were sufficient to give mo a good idea of the character of tin? 
 country away from the coast. Since 1877, Mr. A. P. Low of the Geo- 
 logical Survey has made surveys of East Main river and parts of Big 
 river, Little and Great Whale rivers, ami Clearwater river. Whihi 
 going out or returning by the A^c/ifaiie in 1884, and the Altrl in 1885, a 
 near view of almost the whole of the ea.itern Labrador coast was obtained, 
 and we also lauded at a few points. In 1858 I assisted in an exploration 
 
•J. 't 
 
 t ^ 
 
tat 
 
 s 
 
TIIK r,Al:l{Al!f)I! PENINSi;i,A. 
 
 :i37 
 
 a 
 
 ot' l,.il<(' St. .lolin ami tlie Siii^iioiiay, ami in 1S(18 I coasted in ii small 
 ftciiooiicr all tint way irom the Sat^'iicnay t(» tlic Stiail of iicllc L-jlu ami 
 a:jc('ii'l((l sonic of tlio rivers for sliort ilistaiioes. 
 
 llaviny scon so miicli of liahrador myself, 1 liavo beoii the better al)lo 
 to obtain ami to aiipreciati) tlie !ari,'c amoiiiit of valuable iiifoiiiiation in 
 re.^'ard to it whicli 1 bavc derived from jiersonal iiiturcourse witli a mimljer 
 of people who havo a kiiovvledj,'o of various parts of ' i rei^ion. Tiieso 
 include traders, explnrers, inissi(ji.aries, fisliermen. Vmoii;,' them I 
 
 may mention Air, .John M'Le.iii, author of 'J'lcrn/' i'(nr,i St rricc in 
 
 the Hmhiiii Bay Tcrrilorics, who tra\orse<l Labrador sovoral times, and 
 whom I met freipieiitly at Fdora in Ontario, wliither iio had retired ; the 
 l;ite Captain William Kennedy, the Arctic c.\pk)rer, who was agent for the 
 Hudson iJay Company at Fort Ciiimo and George liivor Fort in Ungava 
 i>ay, and at old F(Ut Xaskoi)ie in the eastern interior; Sir I). A. Smith, who 
 ii'sided many j'ears on the eas'.eiii coast ; j\le,-.srs. Robert Crawford, I'eter 
 .M"ivcrizie, ami Kiiitii M'Konzie, who have successively had charge of Fort 
 Chimo ; Mr. fjucien Turner, who was agent at Ungava for the Smitii- 
 sonian Institution from 1.S82 to 1881:; the six gentlemen who had charg'3 
 from 1881 to 1880 of the three government inoteorologictal stations at 
 Cape Chidley, I'lince of Wales Sound, and Cape Wolstenholme, esj)ecially 
 Ml'. Ii. F. Stupart, now Director of tiie Meteorological Service of Canada, 
 ami Mr. V. F. Payne of the same service ; also Mi: \Villiam Skynner, of 
 the Ubservatorv at Naclivak, on the cast coast, souih of Cap(! Cliidley ; 
 liev. F. d. I'cck of the Church Missionary S(jciety, who crossed the north- 
 ern part of the peninsula from liichmond Clulf to Ungava ]>ay, and 
 kindly furnished me with a copy of his itinerary and map ; ]\Ir. J. C. A. 
 Creighton of Ottawa, who made an exploration for the Geological Survey 
 be' ween the Gulf of St. Lawrence and tlio head of Hamilton Lilet ; also 
 several of the otlicers of tlu; Hudson B.ay Com])any, lately resident on the 
 eastern coast, and some of the Moravian missionaries whom we visited on 
 tliat coast in 1881.^ 
 
 Lmv and Enttnia Hqihn'athim. — lUit I am more i)articulaily indebted 
 to Mr. A. V. Low of the Geological Survey, and his assistant, ]\l'r, L). 1. 
 y. Faton, for scientilic iid'ormation as to the interior. Li 1803 these 
 gentlemen made a traverse through the central portion of the v/holc 
 peninsula from Lake St. T »hii, by way of Lakes Mistassini and Nitclii- 
 ipian, and the Kaniaiiiskow like and river to Ungava Jiay. On their 
 arrival at Fort Chimo they fortunately caught the Hudson Lay Com- 
 pany's annual steamer, Erir, bound for Rigolet on Hamilton Lilet, fuid 
 they spent most of the winter at the North- West river post of the Company, 
 near the head of the inlet. During the spring and summer of ISUl they 
 
 • Till! Icillowiii,:; 1 .cioiis woiv ileteniniicil in I^'.IO I'jr .Mr. William 0,i;ilvic, Doiniiiicii 
 Tojiograiihiual Siii'vcyor, who rucuivcil thu linyal tJL'UL;rai>liical Siiciuty's lurdnl I'or lii.s tw- 
 liloratioii ol' tin; Yukon river (6'. (»'. V. , vol. vii. [i. '.ill) ;— J'aiiJi'rt's House, lat. 51' '2'J' "JT", 
 long. 78' Vo' 00" • East Main Post, l.-it. l,T, 11' 4l-?l", long. 78" 20' 15", or 5 li. 13 ni. lu .s. ; 
 (Ko.sia(.'nce) Mooso Fy., Int. .':•!" 14' 43", long. .S(), 3fi' 00". The I'Osition of tlic Hudson ISay 
 (-'oinjjany's jiost on liast .Main river was ascertained with the closest accur.icy, while the 
 other deterniiuations are very gooil, and certainly the best existing. 
 
 B 
 
.'J.-JH 
 
 SCdTTISII OKOOKArillCAI, JIAGAZINE. 
 
 .survoyod tlie Uaiiiiltoii river to Lake retitsikapow, where the u]i\\an! 
 cuur.-ie of the liver turns from :i iiorth-\ve:iterIy to a .southerly (iircctiou. 
 Tliey then surveyed Miei!.ikani(»\v lake and a route tlienee southward hy 
 Atikonak and Ossuknianowan hd<es and tlie Komaine liver to the iMiii 
 gaii Islands on tlie north shore of tlie (lulf of St. Lawrenee. Messrs. 
 Low and Katon's explorations f.ir ls;)3 involved perhaps the most arduous 
 .joui'iK'y hitherto undertaken hy oflicers of the Geological Survey, and their 
 work of 18'J t also proved, ditllcult in conteiuIiuL.^ with snow and slush 
 in sprint;, and afterwards on account of the i^reut numt)er and the rough 
 cliaracter of the portages wdiich the explorers were ohliged to cross, lio'th 
 the above journeys were performed with small canoes, wiiich in the .sining 
 of IS'Jl were hauled over the snow l)cfoie the ojn^ning of navigatii-n. 
 (Janie was scarce, and lish caught in gill-nets each night constituted 
 their principal food. Tliesi; gentlenuMi deserve much credit for their 
 perseverance in successfully carrying out the abo\e work in Labrador. 
 Believing that their names shoidd be recorded in the region of their 
 explorations, I have placed them on the two lakes lying to the north- 
 Avest of Lake Michikamow, as shown on the accomjianying map. 
 
 The Eastern. Cond. — The bi'st-knowu portion of the peninsula is the 
 eastern coast, which in the popular nnnd is generally associated with tin; 
 name Laln-ador. .\ good summary of our knowledge of this region is 
 given in Dr. A. S. Packard's Th^- L<thi\ulur Cmul, published in New York in 
 IS'Jl, and I have had some correspondence with the author on nuitlers 
 discussed in his book. I have also had access to the (jlder beoks and 
 maps which have been published on the suliject of Labrador. From all 
 the foregoing sources of information, which include the most recent, it 
 is [iroposed to give in the Ibllowing p!;ges a succinct general account of 
 the Labrador peninsula which shall convey as much definite and sub- 
 stantial information as may be possible in the space devoted to it. 
 
 (.!km;uai. Dkscuh'TIon, — The Labrador peninsula may be descri])ed in 
 a general way as a moderately-elevated plateau of Arclueaii I'ocks, hilly, 
 intei'spersed with many lakes, and having a surface partly of swamj) and 
 bare rock, and partly overspread with boidders and coarse glacial ih'hrii^, 
 rendering the greater portion of it unlit for cultivation. Its ,sea-borders 
 are rather abrupt all round, except in a few sections, wliere the country is 
 low for some distance inland. In three parts of its coast-line, ranges of 
 mountains or great clilfs and hills of rock rise directly from the ,sea. 
 The first and highest of tliese follows the whole Atlantic border, which 
 has a length of 7G0 statute miles. The next is a range of mountains 
 and precipices from 500 to 2000 feet in height overlooking Hudson Strait, 
 and running along the whole of the most northern coast, which stretches 
 from Cape lIoi>e's Advance to Cape Wolstenholme, a distance of 'llO 
 statute miles. The third mountainous section is that part of the western 
 coast which lies between Cape Jones and Cape Dullcrin and lias a length 
 of .'joO mile-s. Here the hills or mountains rise to heights of 1000 to 
 2000 feet, within a short distance of the .sea nearly all along. The 
 southern shore from the Saguenay to the Strait of Belle Isle cannot be 
 
THE LABRADOR PKNINSrT.A. 
 
 n.'^o 
 
 a till' ujiwanl 
 I'lly (iiri'ctioii. 
 .suulliwiud l)y 
 T to thu iMiii 
 lice. I\Ies.sr.-i. 
 most aidiiou.s 
 vey, and their 
 low and slusli 
 lid tlie rough 
 cvoaa. Both 
 in llic .s[)rinj; 
 >t' navigatii'ii, 
 t constituted 
 dit i'uv tlieir 
 in Labrador. 
 i,don of tlieir 
 to tlic nortli- 
 iiap. 
 
 linsula is the 
 ited with tii(! 
 his re^gioii is 
 New N'ork in 
 <v on matter.s 
 ;r Ijcolvs and 
 r. I'Voni all 
 ist recent, it 
 al account of 
 ite and sul)- 
 to it. 
 
 ; descril)cd in 
 ivjcks, hilly, 
 f swamp and 
 ;Uicial (h'hrli^, 
 i sea-ljorders 
 le country is 
 nc, ranges of 
 rom the sea. 
 order, wliicli 
 f mountains 
 idson tStrait, 
 ich stretclies 
 nice of "JTO 
 the western 
 lias a lengtli 
 ; of 1000 to 
 ilong. The 
 le cannot be 
 
 said to be mountainous, although in most parts it rises rapidly as you go 
 inland, in a .succossion of rocky hills. 
 
 The .shores of T^ngava Bay are low all around, with the exception of 
 some small hills of rock about the mouth of the Koksoak river. A low 
 tract of country extends westward from this liay across the peninsula to 
 ]\rosquito Bay ; and the western coast is mostly (juite low from the latter 
 bay southward to C'aiie DiilTeriii. AW the way I'rom Capo .loiies to liuix'rt 
 i!ay the shore is less rocky than elsewhere on the Kast Main coast, and 
 as a general rule it ris(>3 gradually from the sea. A large tract, shown 
 on the accompanying map, extending inland from the east side of .TanH>s 
 Bay, aiipears to be less than GOO feet above the sea, except, perhaps, in 
 a U'AK places. IMost of the country between Bupeit Bay and tlie Saguenay, 
 forming the neck of the peninsula of Labrador, is hilly, with an elevation 
 in the central part of about IHOO feet. 
 
 General Klernllon af tin PmiDsiiia nnil of tin Iidirhir I'latniit. The 
 
 general elevation of the interior plateau is probably not far from 1800 
 feet above the ocean. Professor II. V. Hind states it at L'2 tO feet, which 
 is in-obably too great. Mr. Low estimates the mean elevation to be 
 inOO feet, which may bo more nearly correct as an average for the whole 
 l)eninsula, allowing for the diminution which would be caused by taking 
 into consideration the low level of the tract around Uiigava Bay and of 
 th(^ greater part of the northern division, as well as the moderate; eleva- 
 tion of the district on the east side of James Bay. But these low areas 
 may be fully compensated for by the excess in the elevation of the north- 
 oast coast range and the high ground inland from the mountainous part 
 of the East ]\Liin coast, so that, taking together the low tracts on the one 
 hand and the mountainous portions on the other, their mean elevation 
 may not be far from that of the general ]ilateau. 
 
 The mean of the estimates of Hind and Lov.- is 1870 feet. ]\lr. Low 
 gives the height of Lake ]\Iistassini as about ISHO fi t above the sea, 
 but the surrounding country is consid(>rably higher. He ascertained by 
 the aneroid barometer that Lake Nitchi(iuan, at the source of Big river, 
 has an ehivr.tion of about 1800 feet and Lake Kaniajiiskow of about 
 1 700 feet. These two lakes are in the centre of the peninsula, liut not 
 far to the south-west of the former the hills rise to a height o ■ 500 feet, 
 and to the north-east of the latter to 700 feet, aViove tlie canoe route. 
 Lake Miehikamow, a short distance north-east of (Jrand Falls on the 
 Hamilton river, cannot be far from 1500 feet above the sea, and Mr. 
 Low says "it is surrounded by barren rocky hills from 200 to 700 feet 
 in height." Buyant, by means of a standard compensated aneroid, 
 found that the highest point in the neighbourhood of Orand Falls was 
 only a little more than 1500 feet above the .sea, but the general elevation 
 of the country increases coiisideral)ly to the north-westward. If we add 
 200 feet for this increase and the same for the general altitude of the 
 country aliove the surfaces of the four lakes- just mentioned, we shall 
 find the average to be 1770 feet. The tops of the higher hills within 
 sight of the coast between Cape Jones and Puflerin are about 2000 feet 
 high, and the general elevation probaliiy increases to the north-eastward 
 
310 
 
 SCorilSH fJEOCR.ArillCAI. MAG.AZTXK. 
 
 as far as the iicght uf la,,,!, a).n„t ini.hvay to Vw^ava liay. Calov -rives 
 tlH. ..lovat.on ot a !,ill n.ar ti.e upiuT part of tl,o Aloisie nsvr in 1 c 
 soutl.orn portion ot Labrador, as -'-M L.t above tl,e sea. From tl,.' 
 to.p.ng considerations, and until a .^ivatcr number of facts are avail- 
 able on wiiicl. to base m.,re exact ealeiilalions, we may assum.- tbat th. 
 average eovatim, ot the Labra.loi phitea... if nut of the whol. neninsnla 
 IS about ],S00 feet above the sea. ' < ■'I'lsiiia, 
 
 Ardia.an roeks .imihir to those of Labrador continue to tii,. south ami 
 uest ot Ihnlson Lay, but ^vuh a ,limini>hing .Ifvation ami a l.ss sfriK. 
 surtace, ami, in eoniuetion M-ith the subject of tiiese general IrvN it 
 .nay be mentioned that oi. the .ano.. roufs brtw^.n the J!ay and Lakes 
 I uron and Super,..,-, the uatorshrd has an altitud.. of al,out lOOO te,.t 
 above the sea ,n nearly all eas,.s„ and the general elevation of the hei.dit 
 ot land in this i.-ion is L'oO or 3UU feet higher. 
 
 .^^././.^^..-Tl,e chain ot'^nunintains .along tin- eastern .side of L.abrador 
 IS seat ere,l and dl-detined from th. Strait of lielle I.^le to Iiunilton 
 Inlet, but northu-ard of this great lionl it becomes more .,..,,].„ At 
 Iirst It IS broad and lo^v, but becomes narrower an.l hi^dier asu.. , roceed 
 ni- the cMst till It has attained its maxinuun elevation in the nterval 
 between Saglek P.ay, IK. statute miles south of ( ap,. rhidlrv and th!' 
 'our 1 eaks, .0 n.des smith of the same cap... ]■>„„, ,l,is hi'jiest part 
 the general ..l..vation diminislu.s i^rthwanl t.. Cape (•InMK.v u-heiv it is 
 .^.ont ,n.,fV.et. Th,; p..aks Just n...ntiom..l .1,,. r,.p,..in,..d on ll 
 Admiralty charts as having elevations ..f fiOOO fe..t, ami numerous oth.-r 
 roints „. t .. , n,, s ,o ,l,e south of them aj.pear t., be at l..ast ...p,a 1 y 
 high. In Dr. ,S. A\,„;,s map of th.- n..rtli point of Labra.lor (l.^Os a 
 ridge to th.. w..st of th.. Four Teaks is rei.res..nt...l as 80(,„ fW.t hi':!; 
 ])r K. Koeii, who sp.nt the winter of 18,so->s;5 at Nain savs • •■ fh,^ 
 highest points ol_- this rang,, aiv opposite th,. islaml of Aulatsi^ikVAul,./- 
 avilv.,r Aulalsivik), and reach ..levations of from .^f)0(i to I'OOO feet'' 
 Ihis range is the highest groiiml in Ibitish Am,.rica east of th.. Kock'v 
 mountains. «ioLK_y 
 
 Th.. mountains forming the northern part of the chain have not l)..en 
 glac.a ,.,1 lik.. the rest of Labrador, ami tli..y pre.s..nt ste,.p- .si.les with 
 jagg..,l CIVS s rising o„t of the c,d,l s,.a. Patches of sm.w ivniain in 
 sh(.lt,.red places thr.mghout tlu. yar. ]l..re in summ..r tlier.. is ..,..■„ 
 richn...ss and van..ty in the colouring ami atniosph,,ic .H. cts, s,. th.-.t the 
 scen..ry ,s beautiful, as w,.ll as gran.l. In.le.,1 it ,.an hardly be exc,.lh.d 
 111 any p.i.t ot th.. world. 
 
 In the int,.rior th..r,! aiv no disfiurt mountain ran^vs, and th,. h.-i'dits 
 of land b..twe,.n tlm dillVrent .Irainag.. ar.as are not mark(..l bv sharp 
 elevations, but, as m other Arcluean ivgi.,ns in ( 'ana.la, tli..v ..;n..rallv 
 constitute the most level belts. The hills are mostly um.,mn..,.t,.. 
 irregular and ot endl..ss variety .,f pr..fil.. and basal form, h, otlu..' 
 IKUts ot tin. g,.eat Archa.an area of Canada, the glacialion has b.vn ni.uv 
 intense and the resulting surface may b.. sa^l to be mainmalat...l, but this 
 • h'scriptmii d.jes not apply .so well to Labrad.,r. 
 
 A'(/.vv.-Lala.s ar.. ihickly scattcrcl ..ver the Labra.lor lu.nin.sula, as 
 
Caloy ffivos 
 river, in tlio 
 Frt)in tlic 
 s iiie avail- 
 mi'' tliat tlic 
 If iif'iiiiisiila, 
 
 10 soutli aiiil 
 !i less .stctilc 
 lal li'vcls, it 
 Y aiiJ LaK-cs 
 It 1000 t.H't 
 i" the liciu;lit 
 
 of LalxaddT 
 » liuuiltoii 
 '.^■ulai' At 
 
 \^i' I fdcccd 
 ;In' Intci'val 
 |',V, and till' 
 li^lK'^t pai't 
 
 "luTc it is 
 itt'd (III till' 
 icTous (itlicr 
 ■a.st riiuall}- 
 If (l.-^C.S), a 
 n fiH-t lii-ii. 
 tys : " Tlic 
 vik (Aiilcz- 
 
 i'OOO f.rt." 
 til.' llovky 
 
 '(' not 1)0011 
 sides Avitli 
 ii'inaiii ill 
 I'o is great 
 si> tliat tile 
 be excelled 
 
 llle Ih.i-llts 
 
 <1 tiy sliarp 
 ' yelloiJilly 
 icon.'iorted, 
 In other 
 1)1 en niore 
 'il, but lliis 
 
 ninsnla, as 
 
 i'^ 
 
f 
 
 l 
 
THE LABRADOR PENMNSIT.A. 
 
 341 
 
 they are in the glaciated Arch.'cau regions of Canada in general. There is, 
 however, an absence of any very large bodies of fresh water, snch as are 
 to be found on the opiiosite side of Hudson I'ay. A few of the largest 
 are al)out 100 miles long, wliile a dozen others measure something like half 
 that length, and lakes of 20 or .'U) miles are quite inimcrous. Lake 
 Mistassini, in the southern i)art, has been surveyed and found to 
 measure aim st exactly luO miles, along its gentle curv'e, by a width 
 of 15 miles in the middle; but as it narrows regularly towards each 
 end, it may not have as gr' it an area as some of the shorter bui wider 
 lakes of th'- peninsula. Lake Mistassinis, parallel to its south-east side 
 and close '.o it, is about GC miles long, but it has no great width. 
 I'ayne lake (so named liy the late Cajjlain A. It. Gordon, R.N., after the 
 observer!''. F. I'ayne, who iirst ascertained its position, etc.) is situated 
 in the oi)p()site or northern part, and is reported to be about i!0 
 miles long b}' 25 wide. If this be the case, its area is probalily 
 greater than that of aiij other lake in Labrador. Big Seal lake is said 
 to be about 90 miles long and 20 wide, whicli would make it 
 second in point of area, judging from the outlines of these two lakes as 
 represented on the sketch-maiis, as well as from their assumed lengths 
 iind breadths. IMichikamow lake, tlu^ largest in Eastern Lalirador, 
 was .surveyed bj' Messrs. Low and Eaton, and fuund to measure 55 
 nules from nortli-west to south-east, independently of some long 
 bays which may givi. it a total length of 75 miles. Its greatest 
 width e.\cee<ls 20 miles, and Mr. Low thinks its area may surpass 
 that of Lake Mistassini. 
 
 Two principal lake regions occur in Labrador, the eastern being 
 situated around the headwaters of the Michikamow or fJrand Lake rivei', 
 the ihimiltiin and the (leorge rivers; wiiile tlie western one lies iidand 
 from the great recess of the lOast Main coast. The eastern group embraces 
 the following lakes: IMichikamow (the (!reat or Grand lake), Low, Eitini, 
 Wacjuash, Nattecamahagan, IVtitsikapow, Naskopie, Eluur, Sandy, 
 Ossokmanowan, Ashwanipi, and Atikonak. 
 
 Tile lakes of the western group disciiarge their waters ]irincipally by 
 the Nasta]ii>ka, Clearwaior, and Little Whale rivers. Clear (or Clear- 
 water) lake is the most acce-ssible of the group. Mr. Lew surveyed a 
 canoe route from Kiehmond Gulf to the outlet of this lake and fuund the 
 distance to be 50 miles in a straight line, but he did not explore tlie 
 Like itself. The four large lakes in tnis r jion, as represented on the 
 accompanying map, are taken from .'iketehes, with notes, made for me l>y 
 two intelligent Indian hunters named Crow and Shem Williams. From 
 their descriptions, Clear lake would appear to have a length of about 
 90 miles. Lig Seal lake of about 100, Little Seal lake of about 
 75, and Apishagami of about 50 miles. Apishagamish (Little Apisha- 
 gami) discharges by both Great Whale and Big rivers, while Big Seal 
 lake seems to discharge into Clear lake as well as by the Nastapoka 
 river. Keiiogamissio (Little Long lake) ami Height-ofdiand lake, 
 both said to be large sheets of water, also belong to this group. On 
 the sketcii-niap of this region, obiM.ineil liy Lev. E. J. I'eck from his 
 Indian guides, Noithern Seal lake is represented as a wide stretch of 
 
342 
 
 SCOTTISH fiKOOPArniCAI, MAflAZINK 
 
 water, which would have a length of about 35 miles. Its centre would 
 be al)out in latitude 57 -JO' and longitude Tf) 30'. It probably dis- 
 charges by a river the nmuth of wliieli I located in 1S77 ten miles 
 north of the Nastapoka. 
 
 Clear lako is remarkable for the great transparency of its waters, 
 and, like all the other lakes of the region, it abounds in tine fish. 
 Tiiese attract numerous seals, which, as-eiid by way of the Nasto[)(>ka 
 river. Mr. Low says the Indians told liiiii that 15ig Heal lake is nnich 
 larger than Clear lake, and that it is surrounded by a low, Hat country, 
 totally liarreii. Mr. I'eck n)entions the same thing in his journal. It may 
 be inferred, partly from this information, and partly from the shape of the 
 northern part of the lak'e itself, that Sihirian rooks possibly occur around 
 it. Anothei circumstance which favours this supposition is the fact that 
 on a hill of Laurentian gnei.ss (like that of the surrounding country), 
 200 feet in height, near the outlet of Clear lake, IMr. Low found a 
 boulder of light-coloured limes^jne containing corals of Upjier Silurian or 
 Devonian age. The direction of the drift v.-as from Dig Seal lake 
 towards this point. 
 
 Anutng the remaining lakes of Labrador which deserve mention arc 
 Erlandson's lake, so called l)y IVIr. John JM'Lean after a Cerman of that 
 name in the employ of the Ihulson L.ay Company, wlu), in 1834, 
 was the first M'liite man to cross the country from Cngava Hay to 
 Hamilton Inlet, then called Kskimo F.ay. I\Ir. M-Lean. from having 
 walked several times over its whole length upon the ice, estimated it to 
 be fully 40 miles long, with an aver:;.;e Invadth of two miles and a half. 
 Mr. Low gives the length of !-ake Xit(hi(|Uan (Knee lake) at about ."0 
 miles and of Kaniaiiiskow at alu.ut in m'les, with a narrow part about 
 the middle. 
 
 Mr. Peter M'Kenzie of the Iludsou I'.ay Company, formerly resident 
 at Foit Chimo. informed nu^ that at about 15 tiijles north west of the 
 mouth of the I'ngava river, an opening ir. the coast leads into a laige 
 lake close to the sea, which is alfected by the tide aiul niny be "utend 
 by schooners. Leaf lake, said to be 70 or S(l miles west of Fort ('liimo, 
 is rei>orted to be a large sheet of water, but no authentic iidbi'mation can 
 bo obtained in regard to it. Ciand and Kenamnu lakes, in eastern 
 Labrador, are also cousideiabli> sheets of water of which little is knov.n. 
 
 Many of the lakes of Lab.-ador, including Michikamow. have two 
 outlets, often to the opposite sides of the watershed, and Clear lake is repre- 
 sented by the Indians as having three discharges, of wliicli one divides 
 into two. Double outlets are of common occurrence in our Laurentian 
 lakes in general, and the fre(iuency of this phenomenon helps to prove 
 the comparative freshni>ss in geological time of the surface of the great 
 Arcluean region of northern Canada. 
 
 JUnr.^.— On the Archa\an plateaus of Northern Canada generally tlie 
 rivers do not flow in deep or well defined valh'ys, but are prone to spread 
 over the country in straggling channels. I fouml good examples of this 
 condition on the upper jiarts of the English. Attawapishkat, Albany, and 
 Nelson rivers. Mr. Low observed a similai' character in the upper parts 
 
1 
 I' 
 
 w 
 1' 
 ii 
 
THE l,AI![<Al)nn PEXINSfl-A. 
 
 ;ri3 
 
 uf the East Main anil on tlio HaniiUoii river abovo Grand Fall. In all 
 these rt.\^'ions the . streams must lie tlowini,' nut fak- heluv the general level of 
 the surrounding country. Dranclics will run oil' inexiiecledly on eit her side 
 and after a course of 3, 10, or 50 miles will rejoin the main stream. This 
 |ihenonu!non of the Arch.'i'an I'tgions of Canada is one of the evidences of 
 the shortness of the period during which the presi'iit suifacc has exi.-ti'd. 
 Denuding agencies have affected it hut little, and the rivers have not yet 
 had sutlicent time to excavate distinct valleys for themselves. 
 
 /•'(////■ Ihdinarje Area.'' in Lahrdikn: — The annual prociijitation throughout 
 lial)rador a|)|iears to l)e ;is great as in Dnt'iriu and (^>uel)ec, and consequently 
 the country abounds in -Ueams and rivers. The [jeninsula has hnir 
 drainage areas or river systems: (1) a northern, discharging, into Tngava 
 May and Hudson Strait ; (2) a western, into Hudson Hay ; (3) a southern, 
 into the Kiver and tiulf of St. Lawrence; and (1) an eastern, into the 
 Atlantic (Jean. 
 
 The norliiern drainage sysL.-n) is the second in iioint of area, and its 
 greatest river, the I'ngava or Kcksuak (Dig river), has a length of 
 about 100 miles in a straight line, or ui»wa."ds of 500 following its 
 geneial course. Fort (Jhinio, a trading-jiost of the Hudson Day Com- 
 pany, is situated on the east side of this rivei', about '_'0 miles from its 
 mouth at the bottom of Ungava Uay ; the hanks of the river \a this 
 interval being high and rocky. The sjii'ing-tides rise 10 feet at the 
 mouth of the river, and are felt for about 70 miles up, or as far as Tlii; 
 Fork.s, some 50 miles above Fort Chimo. The western branch is called 
 the Stillwater or Xatwakame, and the other the South, and farther uj) 
 the Kaniai»iskow, river. The 70 miles, or thereabouts, of the united 
 rivers below The Forks is all that may be; called the Ungava or Koksoak 
 river )>rouer, althougii the longest branch, or South river, gives the stream 
 a total length of about 400 miles, as above stated. About lliO miles 
 above Fort Chimo a large branch falls into South river on the east side, 
 called Swampy-liay or Waijuash river, which is followed as part of the 
 canoc-route to Hamilton river and Mi(^hikanio\v lake. Al)ove this branch 
 South river becomes the Kaniapiskow. A few miles above; this tributary 
 the river expands into a lake 1*5 miles long and from l! to 5 nules wide, 
 surrounded by rugged mountains. JNIr. Low named it Cambrian lake, 
 from the age of the rocks in these mountains. A short distance l)elow, 
 and again not far above, this lake, the river i)asses between perpiMidicular 
 walls 1000 feet high, and is here full of rapids and falls. Farther up, 
 in al)out latitude 5G , it plunges through another gorge, which Mr. Low 
 named Katon canon, after his assistant, in which it falls 350 feet in one 
 nnle. Above this canon the country hu' ;iljout 70 miles is hilly, some 
 points rising 500 to 700 feet over the river ; lait in ai)proaching Kania- 
 piskow lake it becames Hat, with occasional ridges. 
 
 According to liev. E. J. Feck, the Stillwater or Natwakame liranch, 
 which he followed from the height of laud near Big Seal lake, is a large 
 river, anil easy to desceinl in canoes. It is greatly increased by the 
 intlux of the Kenogamissie, which rises south of Apishagami lake, and 
 flows in from the south about 40 miles above Tiie Forks. 
 
 L 
 
i 
 
 .Ul 
 
 SCOTTISH riKOfiRAPHICAL MAGAZINK. 
 
 Any (li'ftdiptions which wc have of tlic other rivers of Uiigav.i i!.iy 
 are tno iiKh'linitt; to he wurth rejieatiiii,' at leiiLith. (!euri:e river is a 
 very liir:,'o .stream, and Hows ahnost ihie nuitli thri)iij:hout its whuh- 
 coiir-e, and it rivals tlie Tngava in h'li^th. Wliale river, l)et\veen tliesi; 
 two, is also iui inipoitant sti<'ain. The river which disrhari,'es Payne 
 hilvo, and wiiieli niuy he called i'ayne river, is said to iiave JV consider 
 ahli' hreadtli and a course of al)ont od niih's tlironj^h a Hat country. 
 Mr. Stu|iart, i.i coasting' ahmLC I'n^ava Hay in ISiS,"), noticed a yood 
 many ivsiiinup living at Tinik, wliere it enters the sea. a short distance 
 north of tlie i'.ay of Hoiie's Advance. Two rivers enter i'rince of Wales 
 Sound, and a thii'il flows into an inlet ahoiit ten ndlcs west of C^ipe 
 iVince of \V;iles. .Mr. Stupart's nn'ii found its hanks chtthed with willow 
 lushes of a lari,'er size tiian u>iial in this region. 
 
 The second oi' western di'aina^e area is the most extensive, .and has 
 a hreadth in the centre of oOi) miles, this beinj,' the distance in a sti'aiL,dit 
 line from the source of Ih'i,' river to James Hay ; while (ircat W'liale 
 rivi'r to the nortli and Kast Main river to the south of it are almost 
 ei[iially long. If the general courses of these streams were followed, their 
 total lengths would proliahly prove to lie fully ('00 mili's. Kupert river in 
 the south has a course of 'I'M) miles in a direct linr from Lake Mistassini, 
 which it drains. Northward of (Ireat Whale river the height of laml 
 constantly apiiroaches nearer to Hudson H.iy, and the streams hecome 
 progressively shorter all the way to Cape Wolstenholme. '1 he principal 
 one?, in order, going north, are Little Wh;ile, Clearwater, Xastapoka, 
 Northern Seal (the outlet of the lake of this name), and Langlands. A 
 heautiful i)erpendicular lall of aliout 100 feet occurs at the mouth of tluj 
 Nastai)oka, and another of about etjual height at the mouth of the 
 Langlands. 
 
 Notwithstanding tlieir magnitude, none of the rivers of the east coast 
 of Hudson J5ay is of any value for navigation, except hy canoes or light 
 boats. Most of them are obstructed by falls close to their mouths, 
 showing that this coast has been elevated above the sea in cmnpara- 
 tively recent geological times. On the Clreat Whale, IJig, and Last Main 
 rivers, the first falls are a few miles from the sea; but the distance 
 in each case is too short to be worth utilising for navigation. Every 
 river is broken throughout its whole cour.sc by falls and rapids at 
 irregular, but generally short, intervals ; and these necessitate portages 
 in ascending or descending in cano's. 
 
 The tliird or southern drainage area has a more uniform breadth than 
 any of the others. Counting it as extculing from Lake St. John on the 
 west to the Strait of Belle Isle on the coast, we find it *o include fully 
 ,")() good-sizei rivers. The largest of them are the Outarde and the 
 Manicouagan, which enter the St. Lawrence alnio.st together at about 90 
 miles below the Saguc May. Each of them has a length of ujiwards of 
 200 miles in a straigUt line; but owing to the great l)ends in their 
 upper branches, the general course of either would measure at least 300 
 miles The Betsiamites or Bersimis, about 2.") miles nearer the Saguenay, 
 is an almost equally large stream. Like the rivers of the western drain- 
 age area, all those of the southern slope descend too rapidly to be 
 
Itlian 
 tlio 
 
 luUv 
 tlic 
 9(» 
 
 IS (>r 
 
 lu'ir 
 
 ;'.oo 
 
 I'iiin- 
 
 1)6 
 
 i 
 
 L 
 
 
 
 t .'lit'", iit 
 
 ■'V .. H 
 
 ^?>»'0.^k.'Sli■ 'imp 
 
 
 2 7 
 
 • (I "U • 
 
 a4^ 
 
 \!. -'' . .1 
 
 ^f-:iF^liJlifU^.. 
 
 :ii. iiti .i„i 
 
 tJ 
 
TIIK l,\l'.l!\l)(tl; I'KNINSIM.A. 
 
 ;iir> 
 
 iililisinl tor iLivii^iitioii l)y cmt't.s liii';,'iT iliaii cuiidcs. 'I'lir ^ivjitiT muiiltci- 
 ot' tliciyo si)Utli-ll(i\*'!n^' I'ivfi's lut' moro or less valuablo for tlieir .suliiiiiii 
 mill li'diit lisliciic-i. l'i'rli;i|is in no oilier ii.irt of tlu' world is tlicic .nucIi 
 a liii'm) niimlifT of .■saliiiuu rivDis on a wingh; i;oast-iint'. 
 
 On tho I'a.steni si<lo of Lahrador the hfigiit of laml is too near the 
 I'oast to lulniil of tlir foi nialioii of larj^c streams, cxci'lit towards llie south, 
 and tiiL'ri'fore tlic only loiij^ rivers of tlit; fourth or ea.>tern drainaj^'e hasin 
 are thoso in that direction. They are three in nnniln'r, and all fall into 
 I.alce Mi;Iville, which forms the ii|i|ier part, or the eontiniiation, of Hamil- 
 ton Inlet, 'i'wo of them enter this lake diri'ctly o|i[iosite to oni' another, 
 at a')out .:" miles from it-, head. 'I'lii^ oiii' from the north is called 
 North-West iiv( r. It div id<'s into two hraiiches ahove (iiand lake, the 
 western 'iw'nvj, tho Michikamow, llowin^ from the lake of the same 
 name, and tlu) other tho Naskopie. The riv( r <()minj,' in from the >oulh 
 is the Kenamoii, which has two princi[iul hranche.s, of which the wi^tern 
 draiirs Lake Kenamoii. lint the largest of the three is tho Hamilton 
 river, which outers the head of Lake Melvillo, it.s valley Iteiiig a fiu'thor 
 eontiniiation of that of the Inlet, itself. This river has luM'omo iioteil for 
 its s[)leiidid fall, to reach which wa.s the principal motive for the I'.xplora- 
 tioii of tho river hy three .lilleieiit partios in recent years. It was also 
 visited hy Mr. Low in the coiirso of his ge(. logical explorations in lSi)L 
 
 Although (Ir.iiid Falls ditl not attract much attention liei. re thcso 
 exploration.s began, their existence has heen long known to tho oilloors 
 and men of the Hudson I'ay (.'ompany. Mr. .John .M'Loan, who in 
 18 1 'J pui)lislied ]\i^ Xn/i < "J Tii'i ii/i/-/irr ]'(iirs Sirrii'i' In tlir Ilin/son Jlni/ 
 Ti'rritorU's, visited Uraiul Falls in LS,'!!), when on a canoe journey south- 
 ward from Uiigava Hay, and gave an excellent description of them in his 
 hook. He did not state their height, hut after the time of his visit they 
 wero iiopiilariy siip])osed to ho much higher than they really are ; and 
 Captain Kennedy (refeiicd to on a |)revious page) was accii.stomod to 
 si)eak of them as '•The Thousand-feet I'alls." 
 
 The vaguo accounts which were ciirieiit of their wondrous grandeur 
 ha\'o induced st^veral gentlemen within the last i\'\v years to tiy to reach 
 them. The tirst of those was Mr. Kaiidle F. Holme, of England, who 
 made the attempt in 1887, hut did not succeed. In 1891 two parties 
 from tlu! United States managed to reach the falls. One of them was 
 th(! Howdoin Colleg(i Ivxpedition, which ontorcd the mouth of Hamilton 
 river on the '27lh of July; and Messrs. Austin C'ary and 1). M. Cole of 
 this party arrived at the falls on Mie 13th of August. The other expedi- 
 tion of 18'J1 was that of Mr. Henry G. Ihyaiit of I'hiladelphia and 
 Professor C. A. Kenaston of Washington, They entered the Hamilton 
 river on tho 4th ef August, and reached Oraiid Falls on t'u; L'nd of 
 Septemher. Mr. Low arrived at tho falls on ord May 1894. His 
 descrii)tion in the Siiiii/iinri/ lU'[nni nf the GeohiijiatJ Survey of Canada 
 fur 1894 gives us a clear conception both of the falls themselves and 
 their geological relations. F'rom it \\i\ learn that the falls occur whore 
 the river precipitates itself from tho plateau lying to the northward into 
 tho lower level of an ancient valley or canon running inland from the 
 .sea. There is a perpendicular fall of 31G feet (Bryant's moasurement) 
 
;5iG 
 
 SCOTllSII (iKOfiKAl'iriCAI, MAOAZINIl. 
 
 into tlio liead ni' li.utli nid ,,i' a iianow .'^orgc. Tliis is a y.\i, a-.^'iii;'- 
 l.rancli wliicli rims in nearly at liuht an-lc: hnn\ the nuitli wall i>f\he 
 iniicli greater caiHUi, in Avhicli tlic river lluws tlie remainder of tlie dis- 
 tance to tlie sea. Aliove tliis brancli-gorgc, the great canun was seen tu 
 cuntiiiiie on for L'o miles to tlie iKirtli-westward, although it is not now 
 occnpied liy any ediisiderable stream, 'i'lie eonijiaratively still river of 
 the jilateaii. nn reaching a pool 1 miles alniNc the falls, niches down a. 
 desi'cnt of L'OO feet as a .strong i-ajiid to the great lea]). Jieh.w the 
 lattei' it cuiitinnes to descend as a hailing Icrreiit ahout .".dO feet more 
 in the hr.inch canon, within a di>t;inee of n miles in a straigiit line, 
 altlioiigli Its crook(>d course may have a length <.f 10 miles : so that tlit' 
 total descent in '.) miles will he ahoiit iiUI) feet. ()\\ emeryin- iiito 
 the great canon, the river turns south-east and Hows as a heavy^rapid, 
 which dues not freeze in winter, for fifteen miles to |>ig-|iill i)oi'iage,' 
 wlier<' the can(ie-i'onte to Crand Falls leaves the cuion, and follow.s'^ii 
 chain of small lakes on the north-east si.Ie. fifty miles l,elow iliir-hill 
 portage the river enters a .still portion called Winokapow lake. -10 
 miles in length. At the month of the Minipi hranch from the south. 10 
 miles below the outlet of this lake, the general ('ourse. which has been 
 very straight, cliang-es from south-east to east-noith-east. At linll 
 rapids, (10 miles from the nKJiith, the river emerges from the canon, and 
 a sandy plain intervenes between the river and the roeky hills on e'i'her 
 side, all the way to Lake Melville. Hamilton river, 'tliei(dore. Hows 
 1 l--> miles in the m.iin caiKUi, which, with the 10 miles in the ziuza^'udnL;- 
 brancli-g(Uge and the above (iO, make a total of 21."> miles by the liver 
 from (ii'aiid Falls to the mouth, li- oi'der to commemorate the visit of 
 one of the expeditions from the Fniied States, Mr. Low jmipox's to call 
 the branch-gorge bidow (Ji'and Falls i!o\\-doin eahon. 'I'he lifieen-miles 
 t(>rreni below it might Ite called !!.■ atit rapid, in honour of the leader 
 of the other expe.'.ition of tlu' same year. 
 
 According to Mr. Low's description of the liver, if we make the most 
 modei'ate allowance tbr the descent in the various rapids and swift ])arts, 
 ill addition to the drop of SOO feet at and above and below the Grand' 
 I-'alls, we shall fiml the total descent to be al)oiit 200O feet from the 
 commencement, 1 miles above the falls, to the sea. Above the former 
 locality, he says the hills average .">00 feet above the v'wcv. which would 
 make the general (devation of the country in that region about L'20O feet, 
 'i'he mean bt.'tween this and I'.ryant's elevation (l.To'u feet) of the highest 
 jioint near (li'and Falls would be 1850 feet, which agrees pretty^well 
 with ^our previous estimate of 1800 feet for tie general altitude of the 
 interior plateau. 
 
 CawHis tnul Fiords. — The sides of the caiVni of [[aniilton ri'.cr varv 
 from about noO to 1000 feet in height, and are generally nearly pei-pen'- 
 dicular. 'J'he face of the rocky walls, which consist of the common 
 gneiss and gi'anite or syenite of the country, is everywhere fresh and 
 sound, showing that the canon has not resulted from the decay or erosion 
 of the country rock. I have no doubt that its formatioti has been due 
 to the decay, in pre-glacial times, of a great dyke, or of several i)arallel 
 
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TIIK I.AIJ|;AImU! I'KNIXsn.A. .5.,- 
 
 « tlif -laci.T, cv(Mi ulun tlie Imc uf il„- ,lv)<,. wm Mt vi.rl.f „. i ""' '" 
 diiertiun ..!■ the ic.--II,Mv. ^ ''^'''^ '"'i'''^^'* ^'^ the 
 
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 onl. of ,vl,i,.|, ,l„. ,,,„„„ „f „„. ,.;,,.,■ i, 1„. ,. „ t„ ,.„.. ' ''"';■ 
 
 "."'-'; ; 1 "■"." vi,,..- i„ „„. i,.„; ' , ',t^ , ';;:Lr:r;**'' 
 
 r;;;:;,-;,:-:'''^;,^-;r:::;;;;,:;:--T±f'jf7^ 
 
.-.IS 
 
 .scuTTisii t;K(»(;i{.\riii('Ai, .mai.azink. 
 
 cori't'sponilin^ bfuriiig. Tlic^o two g(jrL;c.s lie luMily in <>\\v .straiglil line, 
 iiiiil tliry may jjossildy fullow ■liU'iTfiit jiaits of t lie saiim yiual rilt. 
 
 llaiuiltoii luli't (iMuliiilini^ Lake Melville) is tiie gi'eatesl iionl of 
 Eiisteni Labrador ami iiiiisi in tbc 1 JO miles tVoiu the ocean. Northwards 
 from it the wholo coast is setrateil with Iohl;' lionls, se\cial of wiiich run 
 in -l'* to .")(( miles from the general line of the coast. The water in them 
 is deep : valleys continue inland from their luaiis, ami they are tlanked 
 liy mountains or high hills of ancient crystalline rocks; in all of which 
 respects they icsemlile thw liords of Norway and (Ireenlaiid. 'I'liey 
 e\idently ociup\' wvy ancient valleys, \\liicli ha\e required a vast length 
 of time for their erosion — .>o vast that it may have extended hack to a pre- 
 C'anduian tinu', as we shall poirit out in noticing lirielly the geology of 
 Labrador. For 170 miles northward of Hamilton lidet the tiurds run 
 south-west, l)ut from thence tn tape Chidley the inward cour>e of all of 
 them is due west. 
 
 nicoLocv oi" FiNHAMKNTAi, TJciCks. Fmiiii ii//<iii Si/sfciii. — The pre- 
 vailing rocks th'DUghout the peninsula of l.aljrador are gneisses and 
 granites ur syenites of liaurentian age, and as far as they have been 
 examined, they have lieen found to belong to the older part of the 
 system. If the foliation of the gneissic jMnlimis be due simply to 
 pres>ure, it will be dillicult to draw a line between the^e and thi' 
 non foliateil or gianitic rucks of this regi(Mi. liornblenili- granite 
 prevails along Mr. Low's central route from longitude 71 .">o', on the 
 Ivist Main i'i\er, as fir as and around l\aniapi>kow lake. In the 
 next loo miles, or ueaily to the Cainluian area, to ln' noticed further 
 on, he found grey and pink banded hoinlihnde and mica gui'is.ses, 
 and daik coarse mica and hornlilende schists. C.ranite or syenitt' was also 
 the piwalent rock arouml the northern and southern parts of Michika- 
 mow lake, between this lake and tJs.-.okmauowan lake, including the 
 region around Grand Fal's, and thence southward all along the route 
 followed to the (<ulf of St l,awience. (Ir.inite was the pi'inci[ial rock met 
 with on an exploration by ,Mr. Low between the south branch of (Ireat 
 Whale river and the lower part of Lig river. He also found a small 
 area of this rock at the "jog" on Fast j\Iain river, al)out longitude 7(J , 
 and another around ()i)utigamu lake south of Lake Mistassini. The rocks 
 of the eastern coast from (Chateau Bay tor 70 miles northward are chielly 
 graiuti>. Massi\'e anorthosites containing ii'idocent labr.ailorite occur in 
 the central part of Michikamow lake; on the .Moisie, Lomaine, and St. 
 John river, and on the Atlantic coast at White Bear Arm, Hamilton 
 Inlet, I'aul Island, Nain and i'ort M invers. 
 
 In the basins of the Lersimis and Sagui-nay rivers, in the southern 
 part of the peninsula, the Launjntian gneisses and other rocks of the 
 series resemble tlujse of the Ottawa valle}' and probably belong to its 
 newer inntion. Oii the Bei'sinns, and again on the Ashon.ijiiuouchouan, 
 l)etween its falls and forks, Mr. Low found small bands of white and i)ink 
 crystalline limestones like those of the Ottawa valley. After making 
 allowance for the areas of massi\'e rocks above nuMitioned, ami for those 
 of newer rocks about to be noticed, it may be said that the greater part 
 
 n 
 
TlIK I.AI'.UAlMPK I'KM.Nsi'l A. 
 
 349 
 
 o r,al,ia,l..r i.s l.nilt i.i. of Lauivnti.-in gM.-i,>.s. TIh" ini<:i.v..us an.l lu.rn- 
 hl.-n.lic van.ai.-s are aliout (Miiially .■.mnii..ii, and tli.y ..nihiac.. many shados 
 an.l Icxtnics of -ivyisl, and ivd.lisl, ..olouis. The .striK,. i.as not vt l.o.^n 
 asc.Ttain.'d in a M.ni.'icnt nunihcr of i,la,vs for i,uri,o«.,s ofgcnoralisation, 
 '•lit in the great majority of tlic known r.isvH on lu.tli the oastcrn 
 JUi.l \v,.stnn coasts It is nortl.-Mrsto.Iy, ul,ile on l.otli sides o/ Hndson 
 htrait It IS al.out due east and west. On the upper nart of the East 
 .Mam river it has also the same direction. Tins is a .somewhat remark- 
 able circnmstan.'e, since in the re.irion north of the Ottawa and Ix-tween 
 the great hikes and JInd.son IJay, tiie prevading strike is everywhere about 
 south south-west. 
 
 Ilurn.nr, >>■/,„;. -Tins geological system in ( 'anada is of interest and 
 uni.oitane,. l,e,ng pre-eminently a nu^talliferons seri.'s, and it also contains 
 various economic minerals of a non-metai!ic .haiarter. Unfortnnatelv 
 It appears to omir hut sparingly in Lahiador. In ].s77I .lescrihed\i 
 belt ol hornlilen.lic am! .siliceous schi.sts which comes out up.m the coast 
 ot .(.•muss Kay at Cipe Hope, just north of Kast .Main river. Since then 
 iMr. I.ow has found out that this belt runs due east un th.. river for 
 about L'OO mdes. will, a breadth of about I.", miles. At I'aint hills .JO 
 
 miles larther north, .r in latitude r..'!, an..ther l,and of Iluronian i ks 
 
 comes out to th,. coast. [t consists of hornblendic, mira.-eous and 
 siliceous schists and a c.mglomerate having a micaceous matrix enclosing 
 well-r.um.lcd p.bbles of granite and siliceous schist. Civ.Miish Iluronian 
 schists occur on tiie south side of liichmomi Oulf. and the Kskimo make 
 heir kettles and lamps of a .steatitic .schist, i,robablv Iluronian, which 
 they iind on the coast to the south of Mos.,uito I]av: l:..i.nin<' smith- 
 westward Iron, the southern extirmity of Lake Mistassiui, th "re is an 
 "npnrtant lun. ,f Iluronian strata, consi.sting of a variety of bedded 
 vojranic or pyroclastic rocks. This bami is the north-eastern ex- 
 tremity of the Oreat Ilnronian belt, which runs all the way from the lake 
 just named lo the outlet of Lake Superior, a distance, on its gen.'ral cour.se, 
 of . (H) miles A large area of these rocks extends southward from the ex- 
 tremity of M,.. ('ambrian belt in the vi.Miiity of the great elbow of the 
 •buu.lton river. Smalh.r areas wen> seen on the A.sliwanii.i branch of 
 tins river a.„l at Sandy lake, also at I'ospiskau'.-imi lake on Chvat 
 \\ hah. river, .-.nd on the upper part of East Main river, about loiedtude 
 -L. llnronian rorksarereport<.d to occur on the headwater.s of the 
 i.tiude aiicl Manicmiagan rivers. M'Eean .says there is green.stone 
 M» „„|es uj. (,eorge river, an.l that - vry lii,.> slate succeeds.'' On the 
 Atlauti.. c.,ast T f<.un.l rocks which may 1... n.ferre.l to this .sy.stem 
 betwe..,, Nachvak ami E'amah, among them being tVlsitic flag-stones 
 
 '''"' '' .^''''""■'' siliceous schist.s. The Eskimo name of Davis Inlet 
 
 means "penty of kettle-stone," which is a s..ft .schist belonging to the 
 series un.l.r .■onsi.leration. l!e]le Isle was f.mnd by Dr^S.-fwvn to 
 be formed ol a varh'ty of II„r,mian rocks resembling tlios.- of th,.' Lake 
 Hiir.m ivgu.n. Similar rocks occupy larg,- .listricts in Xewf,.un,lland. 
 
 I M. • Dnmiiio gneiss" of Mr. Lieb,.r (geoloc:ist of the U.S. Ecli,,.se 
 E.xp,.,lit,on ol iSGd), so callcl after Domin,. llarlmur on the east 
 
 3 
 
350 
 
 .SCOTTISH (iKoliHAl'lllCAI. MA(;A/INK 
 
 coast, lies ill n (li'[irc,-,si(iii in tiic Luuniitiaii imks almiit 1l'."i miles loii}? 
 hy '2'> liidiul, lu'tuccM Doiaiiio llailiour iuid (';i|if Wrlnic <ii Harrison. 
 Its giratcst (li'vclopinfut is in tin' iici^'lil)oiiilino(l of thr runner iilacf. 
 II. re, according to Mr. Liclicr, it con.si.sts of ligiilcolouii'ii. -liglitiy 
 scliistosc gneiss, from a (inc-graiiicd to a conglonn rate cliaraitcr, tlic 
 iallci' liciiig due to the |iresence of small [pieccj ol'(|uail/, wliicli is often 
 green. It also hoMs large masses of white i|uart/. The rock luring soft 
 and becoming denuded under the weather, leaves t]ie.-.e masses project- 
 ing from tlu' surface. In the vicinity of !>omino iiaihourit forms "a 
 low, tiat [ilain ahout 10 miles hroad and I ."i to 'JO miles long, thiongli 
 which ri.-e Ixi.sses of trap. Its surface !> liut a few feet almve the Iincl 
 of the sea . . . witli patches of white I'ock (i(Uart/ M gii-teninu in the sun.'' 
 (Packard's Tin Liihradur Cnit^l. p, L'S?.) Tlie rocks just de>crihed ajipear 
 to lie lluroniaii rather than Laurentian in character, ami they m.ny be 
 provi.-ioiially placed with the f uiuer. 
 
 Ciiiiihr/Jiii Si/.<fi n, — Lakes Mistassini and Mi,>tassinis (l.iitle Mis- 
 tassini) lie in a very ancient gi'o-raphical (lepre.--ion, icmarkable for 
 containing an isolated ana of unaltered but also unl'o-silit'erous rucks, 
 which are considered to be i,f Canduiau age. These lakes are closi; 
 togelii.'r and j.arallel to each othei'. ;ind tlu'V rest wlu'lly within this 
 ('ambriaii ba.-in, although the central portion of the nortli-west shore of 
 Lake .Mistassini for Mnur di.>tam-e correspcmds exactly u iih the geographi- 
 cal bouudaiy in thai part. The stiike is jiaralitd to the length of the 
 lakes, and the basin cKtcmls for si.K miles south-west of the southern 
 extremity of the largei' one and to an unknown distance to tlie north- 
 east of it, ;ind has a width in the central pail of 1.M1 mile-. Tln' rocks of 
 this basin consist of urey and bluisli-gicy linic-toiie.-. and dolnmites. some 
 l)eds of which contain cherty concretions while a few are arenaceous. 
 There is also a little Ithick shale, and at the to[> of the >e]'ic.- a layer of 
 conghjmerate made n|i of limestone prbbles in a sandy malri.v. The dips 
 are low. varying i'rom 1 lo Ifi and in o!ie place I'U . The portion of 
 the sj^ries that can l)e measure(l does not cveccd liK) feet. Imt tie' absolute 
 tiiickness may be greatii'. 
 
 Tint long recess in the western coa>l betwei-n ( 'api' .loiie- and Cape 
 Dulferin is lineil all round with a fringe of huig narrow islands near and 
 parallel to the coast. They consist of Cambrian rocks, all dijiping west- 
 ward into Hudson P.ay. The main shore from Civ.it \Vliale river 
 nearly to the Kastapoka is formed of rocks lielonging to the same sj stem. 
 and they likewi.-=e dip int(t the sea. Their total tliicknos must amount 
 to thousands of feet. They consist of red and gr<'y sandstones and con- 
 glomerate.s, bedded grey ijinirt/ites ainl hard sandstones, 1)lack shales, 
 argillites, witli layers of red jasjier .ami heir.atite. calcareous cherty lieds 
 sometimes ])recciated, bltu' and liluish grey limestoi -s and dolomites, 
 some of them iiolding cherty nodules and others arenamiiis, amyg- 
 daloids, greenstones, and (|uarl/-poi phyrics. The angles of dip are cry 
 moderate, seldom exceeding Ti". The glaciation havitig lieeii westward, 
 or against the edges of the strata, the escarpments lioth of the niainlanil 
 ani^ the islands all face eastwai'd or inl.ind. 
 
 J 
 
cry 
 hv;ir«l, 
 lilaiid 
 
 J 
 
TIIK I.AIll'.AIiMll I'KNINSn.A. 
 
 351 
 
 Tlu'so rocks, butli in tlieir ii>i.si'inl)lii,i,'e and in tlie fliaracters of tlifir 
 viiiioiiH nicnilxTs, licur a I'lusn icvfnililaiicc to tlif Aninnkic ami NipiLjon 
 scritjs of liiiUf Siiiii'iior, and they iHf iill L'on.siiliTrd to In- of Camltrian 
 a;^L'. In my ((.u-oloj^'ical Siirvt-y) Itcport for liS77, I called tlus series, for 
 conveniiMii'i', tiiu Maniloiiniu'k ,i,'rouiis. In soni!" places these rocks are 
 setsn to rest iincoiifiiriiialily upon the Laui'cntiau ;;iieiss, while in others, as 
 liittlo Whale liver and Richmond ^idf, tln-y lie, also nncomforniably, 
 upon a hard, coarse, thick-liedded or unstratilied reddish c(jng!onierate, 
 which I have called the fn/i niKiliidr Fiirniu/idiK 
 
 On the Kaidapiskow an<l its contimiation, South river, Mr. Low in 
 liS!);') c'Mie u[ion a great holt of rocks like thosu which hare just been 
 describe il on the west coast. The stream tlows upon them foi' al)out 
 ll'O miles, or nearly to Fort Chimo. Their general strike is iS'XW., 
 and the dip is to the north-eastward, at angles varying from almost 
 nothing to 4(1 . The following year the same gentleman found a wide 
 belt of similar rocks, also striking NNW., around Lake I'etitsikapow 
 at tlm great elbow of ilamilton river. Their character, jtositioii, and 
 strike render it highly probably that the" are a continuation of the 
 great belt of South river. Assuming this to be the ca.so, and that the 
 hult continues no farther north than ii>af river, it would have a length 
 of [ii)0 miles and a brea<lth of some 'A'} miles. 
 
 On the west side of Ungava Lay, between Leaf river and IJay 
 of lIope'.s Advance, Mr. Peter M'lvenzie of the Hudson's Lay (Jompany 
 informed me th.at the coast and its many ailjacent islands consisted in 
 part, at least, of sandstones. Tiiese may re[>reseiit a continuation of the 
 (.'and)rian belt. (Jn the other liaml, owing to the general eastward dip 
 of this belt, its sandstones, which are at the base, would be on the 
 western and not the eastern side. The unaltered or bedded rocks of 
 the whole western siib^ of Ungava i>ay and Akpatok Island are provision- 
 ally coloured as Sihiriaa on the accompanying map, for reasons to be men- 
 tioned further on. In 1!<U(), Mi'. 1'. .M'Keiizie, then resident at Sudbury, 
 gave me a general account of tin; Camlirian rocks of South river, of which 
 we have now a good description from j\rr. Low. The latter found them 
 to consist, in asceiiding order, of hard, grey sandstone, containing grains 
 of felspar, ri'd sandstone and red and green argiilite ; a c(jnsidtrable 
 thickness of red, gre( ii, and dark shah -, jjassing into an iron-bear- 
 ing s"ries holdirig beds of hematite, which, in some places, are about liio 
 feet thick, with fragments of red jasper scattered through the ore; lUUO 
 feet or more of bluish and grey limestones, partly magnesian and 
 ))artly siliceous, with which are associated bands of spathic or clay iron- 
 stone, probably manganiterous, ami also some chcrty layers. Some of the 
 green and black shales hold much iron ])yrites, and their surfaces become 
 rusty under the weather. Cheity rocks form the highest stratified 
 members of tl;o series, but (lows of greenstone, 100 feet or more in 
 thickness, cap many of the hills along the river. As a rule, the angle 
 of dip is low, and consei|uently the hills have long slopes to the north- 
 eastward, with steej) faces to the south-westward. Notwithstanding 
 the regularity of the <lip, j\lr. Low thiidcs it would not be safe to base 
 any calculation of th(> thickiu>ss upon this fact, since the series may be 
 
•'•'- sconisii (;i;(m;hai'III(ai, macazink. 
 
 lanltril liy l(>ni.'itii(liii;il uptliiiists ami partially I'i'poati'il in vaiioiH 
 jiaiis. 
 
 Micliikaiimw laki' lii's in an ancient ^t'ot^iaphical liasin, wliicii a|i|icais 
 to l>f still IIikh'imI with tlu' luwi-r incnilifis ot' the I.alnailor Caniliiian 
 M'lics, consist ini,' lure n(' r,.il samlstoncs and s!ial"s. which sIhiw tlicin 
 selves in liatclles alidve the level ui'the watei-. 
 
 Another imiol' that Lake Melville likewise occupies u very ancient 
 'lepressiDn is the fact that the lower poition of tht! < 'anilirian series occurs 
 alonu' its northern side. A^ain, there is a small patch of these rocks in 
 the liottoin of the valley of Hamilton river a short distance up. The 
 thick hori;coiital flows of j,'rc( n>tone at Chateau I'ay, oppositi' lielle 
 
 Isle, and the tiat lyinu I'cds of hard, coarse sandstoi n the north-west 
 
 side of the straits of the ^aint name, are also considei'ed to he CimKrian. 
 
 ,S',////;,0/ ^VA //(.— Mansll(dd Island. Iyin;4 to the we>t of CapeWol- 
 stonholme. is f nnied of hoii/ontal heds of 'j^wy limestone, which, from 
 the fossils 1 collected thei'e in Iss|, piove 1 to he of al)out the ai,'e of the 
 Niagaia tonnation. Akpatok M.tiel, in Tnuava l!ay, coii.sists of thiidy 
 >tralitied I'ocks. sii|iposed to he .Sjluiian. The Laurentian <'hain ot 
 tnount.iins which luns from Cape Wolstenholnie alon^ the south side of 
 Hudson Strait ends ;it C,i]m' llop,."s .\dvance. and from thcnci' to the hay 
 of the same name the whole i-ovmtry is low an<l Hat, heinu' proh.ihly 
 underlaid hy Silurian recks; and there is some reason to lielieve that 
 they extend we-tward .iIoult the depression to Mos,|intii Ilav, on the 
 north side of which there is s.iid to h" a lonj; clilf (d' rocks lyin;,' in 
 hoiMzontal layers. The drift on the lower levtds in MT-ellaii Sti'ait, near 
 Cape ( 'iddley, contains many auLTular tVa.tii.'.ents of linie>toni' ;ind .-hah- 
 holding: Siluiian fo>sils, and it is Indieveil that these cann- from the 
 westiMu side of I'lii^'ava Bay duriu'i the later stai^es of Lrlaciatimi. 
 
 Siirhn;' li.hujij. — It lias heeii ]iretty well pioveil by the ,i;eolou'ic;d 
 inve-tig.itions which have heeii already made in .and around Lalir.idoi, 
 that the whoii. petun>ula h.as heen ^l.iciatcil, with the exception of the 
 higher parts of the mountain i.aii^e of the Atlantic co.ist. The directi(Ui 
 of the 1,'roovim; or striation in numerous ]i;iits of the country is 
 shovi'n hy I'ed arrows on the .accompanying: maji. I'Von; these, it is evident 
 that th" tendency of the ancient glacier which covered th(> counti'v was 
 t() move from the hiudiest levels outward (u- towards the sea on all sides. 
 Along the southern and western coasts, the ininnliug and planing- down 
 of the rock.- is well marked, showing that the action of the ice has heen 
 long contiiund (U' inteiis,.. r.nt on the Atlantic coast the J.ici.al stria^ 
 are veiT light, and they ;ii-e to he t'onnd only on the lower levels or in 
 valleys, do'vn which they run directly towar.ls the ocean. The course of the 
 ice grooves has not lieen noted anywlnMt' in the interior of the northern 
 division of Labrador, hut along the north slope of the mountain chain 
 overlooking the iouth shle of Ihidson Strait they all run eastwai'd. 
 The same course is maintained everywhere <ui the north shoi'e (pf the 
 Strait. The ■' stoss " or I'ouiided ends of glaci.-ited ri<lges on imth sides 
 is alw.ays towai'ds the west, showing that dui'ing the glaci.al epoch a 
 

 oil 
 
 is 
 
 ■lit, 
 
 \v:is 
 
 • 's. 
 
 Wll 
 
 I'll 
 ii;i' 
 
 ill 
 the 
 (■111 
 
 tin 
 ml. 
 til.' 
 
 .IfS 
 
 1 a 
 
TMK I.AIillAIini; I'KMNSUI.A. 
 
 353 
 
 f,'rf'iit icc-stivam pasHrd ,I,.Nvn tliis cliann.'l int.. ihc Atliiiitir. Tlu- (.•oin- 
 I)o.sitiun oftlic drift on tli.. sIk.ivs of the Strait al>^o jworfs tliis move- 
 iiicnt, its mat.. rials at aii}' jioint liaviii- comt" from tlio westward. 
 (Inicral cc.iiditions, Imtli duriiij,' ilw .glacial opodi and at tlu- present 
 day, would also sliow that this must iiaw l.cMi tiic dirc( tion of tlie move- 
 m.tit in the vaHry now occupir,! l,y tii(> Strait, sim:e the course of 
 ^'lacicrs lias always luon i'v the continent towards the ocean and not 
 
 Tlie islands, near the oast sj.le of lliid.son l!ay, wliieii Captain 
 <!ordon and I named 'i.^ Ottawa ^'loii]), in latitude fi!) 45', longitude SO , 
 are well ^lariated on their lower levels. The direction of the kvuv varies 
 somewhat in dillerent parts, hut the j^'eneraJ trend of the movemer , of 
 the ancient .glacier here was <'videiitly northward. There can be little 
 doul)t that the basin of Hudson May was dry land .iurin<,' the glacial 
 •'poch; and it is prol.alde that jiart of the ire wJiich then lay uiK)n its 
 bed moved iK.rthward to join another stivam from Fox Cliannel, and 
 that the united :,dacier then pass<Ml down the -reat valley now occi'ipie.l 
 by Iluds(.n Strait, 'i'he very high and bold land at Cape Wolstenholme 
 seems to have acted as a /vV-v ,/, n^ishmrr a^'ainst the ic(3-stream 
 *rom Hudson May. On Outer I)|V-e.s Island, off the Cape, which is 
 also moderately high, the .striatioii and the forms (.f the glaciated 
 buttresses show that the ice liere moved north-eastward, n.und the corner, 
 as it were, or that its course here changed fi'om north to east. 
 
 Thealiiindance of bould.us is one of the ch.naeteristics of I.alirador. 
 The surface uf the country is nearly everywhere eucumlieivd with them. 
 They are .scattered al)out )roi.iiscuouslv and are of all sizes, or they form 
 ridges an.l i)il.vs in ,all Kinds of situations. Th.^v may be observed 
 perched .singly or in groups on the sides and to],s ..i'hilli where it would 
 seem very easy to dislodge them, showing that no severe eartiiipiake 
 shocks have occiirre.l in I.abrador since tJie glacier melted away and 
 gently deposit<Ml these boulders in their present situations, LarL'e rounded 
 bh.cks are often seen supported by smaller ones, ,so as to leave a clear 
 air-space beneath them. 
 
 In the centre ,,f the j.enin.^ula, :Mr. Low .savs the l)ouldors or loo.se 
 masses of rock and also the smaller fragments are mostly angular and not 
 tar-travelled, which would help to prove that this was {{w n.gioii of 
 neve, trom which the ice started in ditferent directions, as indica'ted by 
 the strin>. ][.■ ol,seryed hills of drift and morainic rid-e. in many parts. 
 The latter were often j.itted with large holes oi' ;;ollows like the "kettle 
 mor.nines " of the United States geologist.?, tlie.sc depressions havin- been 
 left by the melting aw.iy of large mas.ses of ice which had been incor- 
 porate.! with th.. nu.re Listing materials at the time the ridges were 
 forme.l by g|,acie,s, Mr, T,.)w als.> detected long low lidges ""..f finer 
 and tuither transported drift material, like the osars of Scan.Hiiavia, 
 
 Kai,sed beaches occur along all the coasts of Labra.lor, ami atfor.l 
 very striking evi.lence to even the most ca.sual ob.server of the elevation 
 of the land. On the lower levels the evidence is so fresh that this eleva- 
 tion must have taken place within a verv recent ireological period and it 
 appears to be still going on. On the west, ,or Hudson Eay coast. lon<r 
 
;554 
 
 SCUTTISII (iKuiaiAl'lllCAL I\IA(i.\/INi:. 
 
 liiifs of (Irit't-wdod are found up to oO fin-t, or nioro, ahovo 
 liigli-tido nuu'k, and deep-water deposits, containing fresh-looking shells, 
 have been raised above the present level of the sea; while shallow- 
 water deposits, with their eharaeteristie shells, are freipiently met with at 
 liigher levels. J'ish traps constructed of stones, and other shore works of 
 l)ygoue generations of Eskimo, are now laised high above the sea-level. 
 The inimerous terraces overlooking tiie iKiy preserve their steep faces, 
 and the smooth gravel and shingle of whicii they are fori .d is still bare 
 and almost as freshdooking as tliat of the present shore. 
 
 Similar comlitions e.xist on the northern and eastern coasts. In 
 regard to an ancient l)each, "200 feet above the sea in Indian Ilarliour, 
 off Hamilton Inlet, Packard says: "Its shingly surface was free from 
 vegetation and it looked as though the waves had receded from it bul the 
 night ]wi'nn'" {Till- Jy'ihnttliii' 6V(^'^•/, p. 170). In an ui»lifted sea bottom, 
 forming the i>resent beach at Hopedale, I'ackard found the stones and 
 [lebbles ■' covered with nnllipores and jiolyzoa ; the i^fi/n (niiicdtn still 
 renuiins peritendicular in its noles, and the most delicate shells, with their 
 epidermis still on, are unbroken, ami their valves ofieu united by the 
 ligam.ent. ... It is evident that this deposit has slowly and almost 
 imperceptably risen scnne 4()(j or oUO feet, without any paroxysmal 
 movement of the continent, over an extent of coast some G(M) miles in 
 length." (//'/■(/.. ]). .'5:2-1.) lietween Helle Isle and llopedaic the same 
 traveller iHjtici-d raised beaches in upwards of To dilfeimt jilnces. 
 They make about 1 li terrace-levels, ranging up to oUO feet, Imt nKi.-t of 
 them are under 2t)0 feet. 
 
 Farther north, raised l)caches occur at much higlirr levels, Sonu' 
 seen at Naclivak lidet 1 estimated to be about 1.J0O feet above the sea, 
 I also found high shore-lines on JMarble Island in the iiorth-we.iiern p;Mt 
 of Hudson i!ay, ami similar lines, at great heights, have been observed 
 by ot' ers in Koe's Welcome and un the land still farther north. 
 M'Lean says : " Along certain jiarts of the (east) cojist of liubrador rows of 
 boulders are perci ived, lying in hml/: ntal lines, the lower about "200 
 yards distant from high-watei' uiark, while the farthest extend to near 
 the crest of the adjacent hills, ' 
 
 Pi'ofessor J. \V. Si)ciK'er has found by the actual level'ing of 
 ancient lieaches over long distances in the pidvince of (Ontario and tlm 
 State of New \'ork. that there is a dillerential ele\ation of the land 
 towards the north-east amounting to from oiu' to three feet in a mile. 
 If till' amount weie even nnudi less, and it extended into the Labrador 
 -peninsula, we should tliere expect to iind very high beaches. 
 
 Ei'iiiiomir M'ui('i\ih. — The ujjper beds on nearly all of the long islands 
 near the east coast of Hud.-on l!ay, between Little Whale and Xastajioka 
 rivers, consist of a rich manganiferous spathic iron-ore. The islamls 
 are destitute of trees, and their long gentle slopi^s to the si'a exposw 
 millions of tons of the ore. u-hich could be liroken up and. shii)[)ed at 
 snuxU cost. The ipiantity is juactically iriexh;Mistilile. The thick beds 
 of liematit<' whicli Mr, Low >aw in the Cand.rian rocks along South 
 river exposed millions of tons of ore close to the stream and more in the 
 
■riiK i..vi;i:ai)(iu I'Kninsi-i.a. 
 
 ..nr. 
 
 \'; 01 
 
 I tlH^ 
 
 land 
 
 1 n 1 1 o 
 
 hillfiidcs. Siiiiiliif oiv iti iiI)iiii(lniico accoiiipaiiics tluso rocks in the 
 soutlu-iii extcii.sioii of tliis hand around Petitsikapow lake. 
 
 Copper ore is reported to occur in dili'erent places on the Athintic 
 coast, but no detinito or reliable information is available regardin.i,' their 
 dei)osits. I Ij.ive received j,mod specimens of copper pyrites from 
 Indian Island off the entrance of Hamilton Inlet. 
 
 Galena occurs as small and large segregations, often weighing nearly 
 one hundred i)oun.lH and apparently in workable (|uantitic'^s in a 
 twenty-feet bed of limestone in the Manitounuck (Cambiian) rucks at 
 Little Whale river and liichmond gulf and, probal)ly, in thr same bed 
 all the way betweiMi these localities. It contains scarcely em.u-h silver 
 to be worth extracting. 
 
 Gold was found in traces on assaying samples of (piartz from veins 
 at Nachvak, Cape Chidley, and one of tlie Ottawa Islands. In various 
 jdaces on the Atlantic coast the schisto.se and granitoid rocks contain 
 large i.solated masses of .punt/. Thos.' in the "Domino (piartzites" 
 have been already referred to. They would be worth assaj-ing f(,r gold, 
 for should they be found to contain even a few pennyweights to tiie'^ton^ 
 it W(.uld pay to work tiiem iu sudi an accessible region. 
 
 Among the ornamental stones of the peninsula \he diiiereiit forms of 
 labradorite are the best kiuiwn. A massive variety witii iridescent sjiots 
 occurs at Hamilton luleL. Tlie Kskimo mine the pr.'cious kind on 
 Paul Island, and the mineral is sent fr(uii Xain by the missiouaiv ships. 
 It exhibits a nuuilH-r of In^autiful colours, including dark and light l)lues 
 and greens, red, lire-colour, steel-grey. etc. .Mr. Low found fine specimens 
 ot this mineral at Michikamow lake. Ama/on-stone and line paulite occur 
 at Port .Manveis, On the western side, the amygdaloids of the coast 
 about Uichmond (Julf are full of agates and cornelians, and on an island 
 near Great Whale river a fine variety of translucent green .juaitz is 
 found in small veins. 
 
 Various other minerals and rocks are found in Lalirador which would 
 be of value in a more thickly-irdiabited country. Among them may 
 be mentioned the excellent building stones which aliouiuf among the 
 Cambiian rocks of the west coast aiul the flagstones of Kamah on the 
 east. The Kskimo of Cape Wolstenholme bring good whetstones in the 
 form of long splinters which are easily smootheil into shai)e. On South 
 river, a little a' )ve the Forks, Mr. Low found among the Caml)rian 
 rocks a compact white siliceous stone which apjiears to be identical with 
 the novaculite of Washita in Arkansas, so highly ])rized for hones. 
 
 Anthracite of excellent quality is found on Long Lsland, off Cape 
 Jones, but it appears to have resulted from the alteration of a mineral 
 like albertite, and occurs in veins in the Cambrian rocks of tin; island. 
 Mr. Low found a vein of a similar mineral near the southern extremity 
 of the great belt of Cambrian rocks of the interior. 
 
 CHiiiiifc. — It Avould not be possible in the limits of this paper to give 
 a satisfactory account of the climate of a country so extensive' as 
 Labrador. While the southern extremity is temp(!rate and pleasant, the 
 northern pait borders on the Arctic. Owing to the influence of the' sea, 
 
;?.■)(; 
 
 si'on'isii (iK(i(;i!,\i'in''.'.i, M.\(;.\ziNE. 
 
 till' cold aioiiiid tlic coasts is not so iiitciiso as in llic inlialiitcd portions 
 oi" our Noi'tli-Wfst 'rcirit('i\v, Itut as tlic winter is Ioni:('r, ice fornis to a 
 jiicatcr tliicknc^s, amounting; to seven teet at Ilaniilton liver, according 
 to Mr. Low. T\w .snow is nioderatidy deep in winter, and tliere are 
 copious rains in tlie sjninLC and .suninier Tiie I'ore-ts form a lu'tter 
 index <it' tile climate I lian columns of meteoi'ol(ti;ical statistics. Although 
 it must lie cont'essecl that the countiy as a whole is poor Loth as to 
 climate and soil, yet it is not so forliiddinu as has hceii represented, 
 rrofessor II. \. Hind in his work on l.alwador. puKJi-heil in lS(i:i, says: 
 '■ LanuUMu'e fails to paint the awful desolation of the tableland of tile 
 T.alirador peninsula." On the other hand. Mr. Low, who returned in 
 L^tU from a two years' evploiatiou of the interior, says: ''These 
 expioiations will give a u(]od idea of the physicid aspect and climate ot' 
 the interior, ahout which very little wa.s previously known oy the public, 
 and will coriect the popular idea that the Labrador penin>ula is a 
 waste, barivn re,i;i on, totally unlit for habitation." {Smii- mj I!' i<od of 
 llii (!t,il,,rii<iil Siii-riij ji,r \^'J\. p. 80.) I'rofessor Mind saw but little of 
 the interior. 
 
 /■',,n >/■<. — 'i'lic Labrador piiiinsul;i, as a \\hoIe. may be .~aid to be 
 nioic or less cKithed with Ibrest, with the exception of a >mall area in the 
 north western ixtremiiy and .■mother ahuig the northern iiart of the 
 Atlantic coa-t, which may be called barieu urounds like those north of 
 the forests (;ri the West -ide of Hudson li.iy. Mr. Low says that, in a 
 L^eneral way, the country northward to latittide ."i I is ]iretty well 
 covered by ' lutiiumus forest, ex"ept on the hill-top-- in certain districts. 
 Nortliwaid c f this latitiule its contiutiiiy is broken by tredos spots and 
 j)atches of uri'ib-r or less e.xteut, and the timber is found principally in 
 the \alleys and lowlands. The acccunpanying map shows the northern 
 limits and the jieculiarities of distiibutiou of the prevailing kinds. 
 These lines niiiy in the futui'e riMjuire to be somewhat nunlifled in I'egard 
 to details, but foi' the present they can bi' taken as ajipi'oxim.itely correct. 
 They are laid down from information deriveil f|-oni all the sources 
 nn'nti(Uied in pre\ious jiages. the late>t being Mr. Low's report. H' we 
 t.ike any point on the map, it is to be a-sunieil that all the trees whose 
 bcundaiics lie to the uorthwaid of it are to be foiiiicl in the vicinity of 
 such a point, except the balsam, popl.ir. ar.d Lanksian jiine. whose limits 
 de-cribe unusual curves. 
 
 Within the bouml.iries of the peiiiu>ul,i. as gi\-en in the beginning of 
 this article, at least twenty-four ditfi'icnt kinds of forest trees are to be 
 found, which is about as niany ;is ;ire native to .all luirope. Whether we 
 consider their extent or the variety of the trees, it will therefore be seen that 
 the forests of Labrador are not to be des|iised. A ceitain numlier of the 
 species, howcNcr, grow only in the scaitliern ]iart, aiul a i'rw of them are 
 coniined to a snuill area, even there ; >till there is a considerable diversity 
 in the trees of the greater ]iortion of the peninsula. The whito spruce 
 (/'iriii (iHiit). black spruce { /'. /il'iin), :\ud larch i>v tamarack (Lur'i.r Aimii- 
 fdhn), are the most pleiititiil and nnisl geiu'ridly dilfiised of tlu' conifer.s. 
 These taree ti'ees .are about eijiudly luuthern in tliiii range, which extends 
 
of 
 
 Itu 1„. 
 
 ■r we 
 
 \\ tllilt 
 
 tin- 
 |in arc 
 •rsity 
 lliruii' 
 ! nil I'i- 
 liircr.s. 
 Itt'iuls 
 
 
 4^>^d' 
 
 '^J 
 
 JLt-Jf — . k^JLj^.. jJxi 
 
V 
 
 TIIK I.AIlKADOl; rKMNSII.A. 
 
 357 
 
 (;oiisi(leral)ly bfyoml tluit of ;uiy otluT species. Tlie limit of tlio iKilsaiu 
 fir (Jhhs hal!<ninni) is coiisi(loriil)ly CartluT suiitii, but .still tho tree i.s fouiul 
 tliruugliowt more than two-third.s (,f Lahia.lor. ].!aiil<^iaii pine (/'/«//>■ 
 n<!nhi:i/)a) grows as far north as Drcat A\'liah! river, l)ut it avoids the 
 P.ast Main coast, and its limit appeais to curve S(.uth\vard before reaching 
 iMichikamow lake. Jts .southern line on the north side of the St. Law'^ 
 reiici! keeps a short distance back from the river all along, and it seems 
 to shun the salt water. The no-.thern limit of white pine (/'. sfm/nis) 
 extends east about as far as Mingan. It is an al)undant and valuable 
 tree in Newfoundland. J.'ed pine (/'. ,;'.<inu.<,i) occupies only a small area 
 noith of the Saguenay. The north line of the white ohUv {T/iin,,! ,„;•;. 
 ihiil,ili.<) runs from liupert's Ilou.se to the vicinity of Pointe des'.Monts. 
 It is a remarkable fact that this tree, though large and fine in Casp.' and 
 New r.runswick, is absent from Anticosti, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia 
 (ex'ci'pt .1 small part a<ljacent to New Brunswick), and the .-astern 
 part of Prince Kdward Maud. Although no i.er.son appears to have 
 observed the balsam poplar (J'^^m!,,, J,alsai„ijh;i) m the largo area 
 in the centre of l.,abrador, iii.licatcd on the map, it cannot l)e as.serted 
 that it does not exist there. On the west side of Hud on IJay, this 
 is the most northern deciduous tree, '{'he large-toothed jioplar (/'. 
 <ii-amUih,ilnt„) is found only in the south of Labrador, while the aspen 
 (/'. Iran til oifh-s) ranges far north. The l)ird clieiry {I'linni^ I'musijlnntlm) 
 has nearly the .same range as the latter. The imrtheru limit of tiie canoe 
 l)irch (Jhhthi i,„i„,nf,n') reach.>s the furks of the I'ngava river, which 
 may be a litth beyond the known limit of the balsam poplar. In many 
 of the valleys it attains a suflicient size for its bark to 1-e used in l)uildiiig 
 canoes. 151ack alder (.//////.s inmi/n) and black willow (Su/i.r itl^iru) have 
 a wide range in the southern half of the peninsula. The yellow birch 
 (/;<///,',/ iH/n,), mountain ash or American rowan (J'inis Jwo-imwi), black 
 ash {Fniruiit.-< s.ni,lnn-;jn/;„\ .sugar nuiph' (,//■,,■ sunhuriiuiw), red oi' soft 
 nuiple (J. rnhniiu), and mountain maple (./. sjura/nw), are all confined to 
 small areas in the south. White or grey elm (r/wiis .ln>n'ir,n,„), bass- 
 wood or huden (7V/;,,. .hinrhuni), and red oak {(Jiu-rctis ruhra) are found 
 arouml Lake St. dolm. where the .soil and climate are excepti,uially 
 favoural)le. The following trees flouiish in the valley of the St. Lawrence 
 clo.se to the southern point of the Labrador penin.sula as above defined, 
 namely, he.ulock {huga Camvlat.v.<). m.mxoo'X {Ovinia /7/v/;,;;,(0, American' 
 ]»eech {F,i^iu.-< fu-nni'iiu;i), \\\\\ti^ i\s\\ (I^aAiim A,,ieric(Uui)',h\uK r)eech (f.n- 
 jnniis Carol hnia) and scarlet -fruited thorn ( ( 'raA/y/,/.. cnmum). Anu.iu: tli.> 
 numer.Mis kinds of shrid.s growing in Labrador, the rowan bush (7'///^v 
 .«nn!>iiriJoiia), whose noitliein limit is marked on the map, deserves men- 
 tion, as Its berries constitute the food on which the marten depends when 
 rabbits and other animals are not to bo had. The fur of the marten is 
 one of tho most valual)le productions of Labrador. 
 
 No timl)er is yet exported from La1)rad(jr. The larger trees in the 
 southern parts are fit to be sawn into lumber; but the wood of tlie coun- 
 try in general will },e valuable in future only for such purposes as 
 making |iaper pulp, railway ties, telegraph jioles, small sjiars, feiiciii«- 
 house-buiIding, timbering niiiios, firewood, making charcoal, etc. The trees' 
 
358 
 
 SCCVniSH (;K(K;KArin('AI, MAliAZINIC 
 
 Sfldoin vt'.'idi two it'ft in (Haiin'tri', uihI air m'licrally less llian (me foot. 
 Tlit'ii' si/<! aiijicai'.s to (Icjiciid more dii soil ami shcltrr than on tlic latitude, 
 tor some of till' finest foiests are to l)e found in tlie nortiicrn parts. In 
 reference to ialamlson la! e, in lalitudii o? , Mr. .M'Le.an saya: " Tlio 
 eirennijaeent con itry i.s reniarkalil}- well wooiled, even to the tops of tho 
 highest iiills." Leaving tiiis lake and journeying southward, he say.s : 
 '■ Passed over .several small lakes ; the eountiy well wooded. Kntered uiion 
 a small river about noon ; the l)anks covered with l.irge pine." (White 
 >[iru(;e is called "pine' liy the Hudson's liay Company's people.) In the 
 thirty-four miles of his ro\ite southward from Krlaiidson lake, when he 
 leaclied Whale river (of Ungava Hay), he says : " 'I'lie face of the country 
 })resents scai'cely any variety ; fronj Kriandson lake to this river it is 
 generally well wooded, l)Ut afterwards (southward) becomes extremely 
 barren — nothing to Ite seen on both sides of the river but bare rocks." 
 Further on In; passed thi'ough a good deal of wooded country to the 
 height of land. Mr. Low noticed that on the lower jiart of South river 
 near the b'orks, the black spruce, larch, and white biich were all larger 
 than higher up tho stream. He says that, on the ('anibiian belt of rocks, 
 in the vii:inity of Lake I'etilsikapow, ''there is .also a marked improve- 
 ment in the size of the trees due to a richer soil covering this area: and 
 along the river and in the valleys, white, l)lack, and balsam .spruce are 
 frequently met witii, over twenty-four inches in di.uuetei' three feet from 
 the ground. White birch also grows larger and more abundantly than 
 elsewhere." {SiiniiHiiri/ Hi'jimi nf lln'Oiiiloijiciil Surrrii fn,- ls;i4. p. 77.) Fcjrest 
 tires every year destroy much timber in the interior of Labrador, as else- 
 where in northern Canada. The process appears to have Ijcen going on 
 from lime immemorial, and young trees are constantly growing up to 
 re[ilace those destroyed, so that "second growths" of all ages are to l)e 
 met with at intervals throughout the country. 
 
 Fdiniii. — The sea around the whole coast of liabrador is well stocked 
 with numerous species of cetaceans and seals. The walrus in large numbers 
 inhabits all the northern parts of the coast and adjacent islands. Among 
 the land mammals nearly all the fur- bearing animals of e.istern North 
 America are more or less plentil'ull}' represented. The beaver is scarce, 
 perhaps on acc(uuit of the great, thickness of the ice on the hikes in 
 winter. Beyond the edge of the forest the principal fur-bearing animals 
 are the red fo.v and its varieties, the cross and silver or black, the white 
 and the blut; fox, the wolf, the wolverine, the jxilar bear and the grizzly. 
 The last named has also been called the '' liarren-ground bear" and 
 pos.ses.ses much interest for the zoologist. Of him ]\I'Lean .says: "When 
 we consider the great extent of country that intervenes between Ungava 
 and the plains of the far west, it seems ([uite inexi)licable that the griz/ly 
 sh(uild bi! found in so isolated a situation and not in the intermediate 
 coinitry. The fact of their being here, however, docs not admit of a doubt, 
 for [ have traded and sent to England several of their skins." Captain 
 Kennedy, who was in charge of the L^ngava for many years, informed me 
 that ho had collected many skins of this animal in the district. Can hi.s 
 presence here Ije connecteil with the fact that the elevated Tiabrador coast 
 
TiriO 1.A1;|;AIm)|! I'KXrNsri.A. ;7r,,, 
 
 range com innc.sn...tlnvMr.l f., lii^^l, huitiKi.s „Innu tin. uvst si.lr „f iMvis 
 Strait, Halliii l!ay. aiul tli.- lands tlirn.-,. iiMrflnvanl as taras vxulurov^ 
 liavc udiii' I '■ ' '' 
 
 '•''"■ "'""■^''' ••""' ''"• "■ •I'""l wiilm,, air crasi.mallv .s....ii in tln^ M^utl. 
 
 \v.'st,.ni part, ..t tl... in'mnsiila, an.l tl,,. ivin.l....r. ,„• l.aricn-unain.l caiih.m is 
 
 ••''."•'"I'l""" (!'«■ >H.rth. TIh-s.. animals ap|M.ar t iviaf annnallv in a 
 
 ui.lrnirl,.. Staitm- lat.^ in suinni.T fur tin. \vost c.ast lliry tollnw 
 t ..■ vny.M.f tin. t.nvst ..astuanl, rn.ss tin- Ungava rivr in S..,,t,.inl.,.i. an.l 
 Ortohor andnnn.adnn-tiu. Atlantic coast tun, sontlnvanl and fln.n w,-si 
 ward, tlunn.uh tin- woods, in the winter, to tln.ir oiii,dnal start in.-iilace 
 Hliers ..ross and ivcross the Un-ava river in tii,. month of March' Mr" 
 leek states that ..long the Natwakanie river tin- rein.le..r have heateii 
 wide trails parallel to th.- hanks of the .stream, whi.h his nnn fonnd very 
 c..nvenient_to n.e as porta;,., roads past the rapi.ls. 1„ ,],, ,„unth ui' 
 
 t-'ril u! 1 '•" """"=;"^™ ''"""^'-'"'^ '"•'•••the coast to the north 
 •'t Little Whal,. river an.l th.. hskimo were sln-otin, rh..m uith th..ir 
 hows an.l .,rr.,ws. Dnrin.u snnnner tlie Kski.no kill manv r..in.h.,.r in tl,.. 
 nortlu.rn d,vH,.,n .,r the peninsula, ..sp.eeiaily near Ilmlson Strait t.. the 
 west .,1 ( ap.. 1 ..p..s Advam.e. I ),.er .,f all kimis hav.. h,.,..,m..' -xfr- 
 •M>nat...l thr.m:,h.,nt th.- s.H,th..rn watei-she.i ..t tl,.. penin>„la. piin.ipallv 
 thron.i;!, th.. ii,,provi.l..in... .ifth,. In.lians. ^ 
 
 A......rdin,^^ to .Mr. lairien Tn,n..r. who has stn.li...l the H.l,j..,.t for the 
 
 Si,i,ths.M„an lnstituti,.n, l-OI) ,.p..,.i,.s of hir.ls hav.. I,,...,, „„t...l .-is .„.,.„rrin..: 
 J" -ahrador. With the ev,.,.pt;.,n r.f the tu., sp,.ei..s of ptarn,i.r,a„ <.nne 
 hir.lsaren„lpl,.nt,r„l. This is especially the ...(se with the a-inati.-' hir.ls 
 an.l tl,.. I,t..t i.s .hie to th.' .scairitv of th..ir f.....l ' 
 
 Thestaple sea iMies of the Atlantic e..ast aiv the eod an.l herri,,.^ 
 llie ha.ld.M-k .1....S n.it api,..ar t.. ext..ii,l n..rth ..f l;,.||,. [si,. Cnu.linr/ 
 
 the j,a...at r..o,l of the CO.], are ..„ all the e.,asts. | pid.,.,! „p' , ,|,.i, ,m, j^' 
 Hu.lson Strait whi..h T t..ok to he a y.mn,, halihnt. Th.. .pLti.'n of th!! 
 eYisten,..e. or .,tl,..rw,s,..„f ih....on,n,.,n .■.,.! in li„d.son l!,.,v ,s .me involvi,,.' 
 
 milln.ns ot .lolhirs, ami it r..inain,s uns..ttl..d up t.. th.. Vres..,,! tj,,,,. T 
 have seen and eat..,. r.,ck co.l, s..v..ral poun.ls in w,.i.ht, tak..,, in n.ts .,n 
 le .-ast M.leot .Ian...s I!ay. ami sin,'., th.. ,..m.liti.m.s are favnivihle for 
 he,rprop,,,ati..i,.it is r.Ms.uiahle to suppose that th.. or.linarv .u.l .,,„ also 
 .reed in ilu, >.m l!,,y. where all ,1... r<..,uireineiits of his e.xi^.t..,,,... ,.,pp„ar 
 t.. exi-t. Ml., common sain, . m (,S'.////,„ >„/„>■) is fo„,i,l i,, all th.. hr.r,.,. 
 streams Inmi tlmSauimiiay to Ihi.ison Strait, and is parti,.ularlv ahnn.Iant 
 ni the rnvrs o^ I ngava May. II,.arn,.'s salmon (S. Jl.arnii) is camdit in Z. 
 nvers of the Strait ami on hoth si.les of Hnd.son Bay, ami .sea trout in 
 n.niith.s o a I the nv..r.s ar.Hin.l the .mtire ...,ast-line. Th.. win-iwish . 
 laml-h...k...l salmon, mhahits l.ak.. St. dohn an.l all th.. lakes eonne.t...! 
 v-th ITaini cm river as far as known. Th.. largo lake whit..fish ahoun.l 
 n ne,y-ly all tlm inland w,Uers. an.l is also caught in salt wat..r on th.- ea t 
 ide of .I..mes IJay. Sp..,.kle.l trout are ahumlant in all th.- streams an 
 ak..s. A arge spec.es of stnrgv.ui, which i.s common in the lak<.s and 
 .vers of the.lr. t.cov,.re.l ....untry on the west sid.. of Hu.lson i' 
 
 IS also oum m the lower parts of the streams on the east si.le of Janies' 
 Bay withu, the area marked on the map as being mostly un.ler GOO fee 
 
360 
 
 SCUTTISIl GEOHKAI'IllCAI- MAUAZINK. 
 
 abtiVf si'ii- level. Till' niliei' frt'>>li-\vaU.'i' litshis Louiitrise the licrriiig- 
 ■.vIiitt'Hsli, tlio iiiari, tluglish uv liii;,', piUe, [)iki'-jiei'c!i, ami suckti'.s of 
 (litrciviit specie.'^, 
 
 J'lijiitliitioi'. — Till' tii^iiit.'S ill till' t;il)lL' 1)1 low are ilerivuil IVoiu tlif fol- 
 lowiiij; sources. Tlio losidi'iit white population of the Atlantic coast, 
 fi'oiii !>huic Saliloii iioriiiuMiil. i.s iVniii the Xewfouiidlauil (iovoriimeiit 
 ceuaiis of 181*1, and there lias beoii little cliaii,i:,'e .since that time. Jioth 
 the white and Indian [)o[iulatioiis from Blanc .Sahlon to the west end of 
 l^ake St. John are iVoiu the Doiiiiiiioii (loveriuiieiit census of 18!»1, and 
 there may have been some increase in the numlier of whites, hut this is 
 uncertain. The remainder of the Indian population is a yood appro.vi- 
 niation to the numlier at present Iradiui,' at the ditlerent jiosts of Mie 
 Hudson Day Coiuiiany. Previous estimates have greatly overstated 
 the numbers of the Indians of the interior. The Eskimo begin to be 
 met with in straguliiig numbers at Hamilton Inlet, and tiiey extend up the 
 At lain ic coast, along Hudson .Suait, and dou'ii the west coast i's far as 
 Cape Jones. The 'igure given for the coasts from Cape Chid.'ey to Cape 
 Jones was found by adding together my own estimates oftlic numbers at 
 all their ililierent settlements and camps, and it may, perhaps, lie slightly 
 under the mark. Some of these people hunt the reindeer at certain 
 seasons a short dist;iii(;e inlainl on the barren grounds, but they all eome to 
 the coast as their homes. In lS'>Olheie were ItOO Eskimo brlnnging 
 to all the .Muiavian settlements, and the numbers have remained almost 
 sta. imiary. The Secretary of the Muiavian Missions in Labrador, re- 
 feriiiig to 1SS7, wrote to l>r. Packard; ''We ri'ckoii tiiat there are le.ss 
 tliaa I'lOO Eskimo on the striji of coast from Hamilton Inlet to 
 Ungava." 
 
 riiiMi.Aihix nv TiiK Eai;i:aimii; I'kmnsii.a. 
 
 Atlantic const from liianc Sablon to Cape ("hidliy -Whites 
 Nortli shore of St. l^awronce from Blanc Saliloii to Taijoiisac in l!-i!)l 
 Whites ....... 
 
 hitto Indians ....... 
 
 On imrth >i(k' of Sagneiiay and Lake St. John — Whites . 
 
 nitto — Jnilians ....... 
 
 On cast coast of Hinlson ISay — Whites .... 
 
 liubans tradini; at ibonilion Inlet .... 
 
 Ditto at I>avi-; Inlcl (NaNkopies! ..... 
 
 l)iltoat f'oit Chinio (Xaskojiii^s) .... 
 
 Ditto at Nitchinuan, Mistai^ini, and Waswanipi :^all Moutagnais'; 
 
 Crees and Moniau'iiais trading at riiipert's House 
 
 Ditto trading at oilier ports on east side of lltidsoii Bay . 
 
 l']skinio at and between ^Moravian seltleniints on Atlantic coast . 
 Ditto, thence niirthw.'O'd to Cape Chidley 
 Ditto from Cape ( 'liidley to Ca[)e Jones 
 
 Total wliite population (resident), 13,;570 ; Indian, 301G ; Eskimo, SIOO. 
 Taking the area of the peninsula at r>GO,000 sipiarc miles this would only 
 
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THE LAnUAnOH PRMNsI'La. .,(., 
 
 that at loast 1000 .,.1. . . ^^'k'' ""'"^"^ erritory. It is cstimatnl 
 
 that at loast 1000 .schoo.H.rs ,„ , vf, V r''\y'- 't is cstimatnl 
 Atlantic coast of LabrI ' :^'l^ i l,^^ T'"'' -'. I-cm to the 
 •sov.Tal families, I,„t at the rate of o v ' ^'""^ "' ^'"'«'^ •^^'"•'7 
 
 year. I,, a.l.litio,, t^ th Is ■ co si. ,;?) T """'' •"""^''•'* •^'' •^•'^'^'' 
 
 United States and else.i; ti:^'^^::^^ Z^Zl^r'' '''"^ ''' 
 
 '''•■'trun,, has si. stations o„ \J^T:::^1 I^othren .„. tr,„tas 
 
 '•""'■'it of the Mskimo. They a e sit n ■ ? fl' / n "'"'"'' ''"' ^'"-' 
 soutli to north :- ^ ^"''^'"' '" t''« following onicr from 
 
 Stalioii. 
 Hopedalo 
 
 ZOMI' 
 
 X;iin 
 
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 Foimili'.l. 
 
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 1771 
 I77(i 
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 1H71 
 
 Niiiiilii'i' of Eskiinn in ISSO. 
 
 160 
 
 00 
 214 
 308 
 207 
 
 ■1 
 
 1050 
 
 Mission, :lu^h;,^,^^i\ 7 'H '"'r'^'' "^ ^'- ^^o-vian 
 whole coast. If we I'J' r^/"J^'f ^ ^''' J''?» l^'^OO Eskimo on the 
 
 tween the mission Lio, td r^o ttLT^T' '' T''' ^''^^'^ ^^^- 
 <"lmlloy, the whole nuuZM^l; 'V ■! , ,^">''" ^^'"^'^^ ''^"'^ ^-ape 
 for the present year ( ^9-, - , ^^'') '''"''' ''^ "^^ far from correct 
 
 about stitionar/ r i lo ;\ ,' '" Tl^ I' Tf '" '^'''' '•'^'"-"-1 
 much in their moral and s^iit ni cln e f"^ /' i';tve_ improved very 
 devoted missionaries, althou^^xSr s f ,t i '" '"^'""^'^^ «*' ^''^^ 
 
 "ot equal to those of U fheaXn K.l '"l"'! I'l'/sical stamina are 
 
 Moravians cuideavour to male 1 J '•""" 'l""'^^"" Strait. The 
 possible, and for this end S^^y e. ou": Zv r'^^l^-rting as far as 
 other fur-bearin.^ animals for wl nh V ° f'T ^" '^""^ ^'^^''^ '"^^ 
 
 supply ammuiuti^n, n he , , ; t ,n' n- "'^f ^ -''^^"^ '^'-^^^^ •^"'l 
 •nission ship, of which succesl v^/nnl ? ^T ^^'' *'''"' ^■^^^""'^'- The 
 visits the stations ah ^m ' for H "" ''''" ''^^"^ *''^^ ^^'""'^^i'. 
 and taking back tl^^Xr^f ^:';i;^^^!:,;^' ^»S'"^^'- outfiit 
 German, and appear to be fond of f ti, vl • • ^ '''^ "''"^'''^^ '^P'^ak 
 
 singing. In 1893 somrent n^^^^ 
 
 fifty of them, including L n ^^ if,"'?^?"' 'T''K''"-^ "l'^^''^^^^ «*' 
 where they remained du n 't o ' children, from Nain to Chicago, 
 these simile clil^hv^ ^ ' ^t^ : ttid Z^''f ""• O/!^'-'' -turn, 
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