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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 'J c/: 5 'd < c>c C/3 5 I • X V X A COLLECTION OF Voyages round the World : PERFORMED By ROYAL AUTHORITY. Containing a complete Historical Account of Captain C O O K's Firft, Second, Third and Laft O Y A G E S, UNDERTAKEN For making New Difcoveries, &c. viz. His First — in the Endeavour^ in the Years 1768, 1769, 1770, and 1771, in the Southern Hemifphere, &c.. His Second — in the Rejolution and Adventure^ in the Years 1772, 1773, '774» and.1775, for making further Difcoveries towards the South Pole, and round the World, His Third and Last — in the Refolution and Dijcoveryj to the Pa" cific Ocearit in the Years 17 76, 1777, 1778, 1779* and 1780, in the Northern Hemifphere, &c. Comprehending the Life and Death of Capt. Cook, &c. Together with Caft. Furneaux's Nar- rative of his Proceedings in the Adventure during the Separation of the Ships in the Second Voyage, in which Period feveral of his People were deftroyed by the Natives of ^een Charlotte's Sound, • TO WHICH ARE A»DBI> Genuine Narratives oi other Voyages ofDiJcwery round the Worlds 13 c. viz.thoie of Lord Byron, Capt. Wallis, Capt. Carterkt, Lord Mulgrave, Lord Anson, Mr. Parkinson, Capt. Lutwidge, MefT. Ives, Mii>- DL ETON, Smith, &c. &c. Includiag the Subftance of all themoft remark- able and important Treraelt ac^ Journeys ^ which ha"e been undertaken at various Times to the different Quarters of the World. THE WHOLE COMF EEH K NDI NC A full Account of whatever is curious, entertaining, and ufeful, both by Sea and Land, in the various Countries of the known World. Beii^ the moft elegant and perfeA Work of the Kind. Illuftratsd with a vaft Number of Copperplates finely engraved by the moil eminent Mafterfl* This EDITION is compiled from the Authkntic^ourn als of feverai Trincipal Officers and other Gentlemen of the moft ditlinguifiied »«va/ and ^idi/o/ci^/iKj/ Abi* lities, whof«iiefi in the uarlnus Ships. * ' V O L. VL LONDON: Printed for A. Millar, W. Law, and R. Cater. *[ Price 2I. unbound in Eighty Numbers. \ 1790. ■.•ur '-. I I Or , "T'Tyfi'f^ \ » / - (■ \ < C O O K ' s Third and Laft VOYAGE to the Pacific Ocean. CHAP. XIV. WE had not long been fettled at the^brerva- tory, before we difcovered the habitations of a fociety of priefts, who had excited our curiofity by their regular attendance at the morai. Their huts were erefled round a pond, inclofed with a group of cocoa-nut trees, by which they were fepa- rated from the beach and the village, and gave the fituation an air of religious retirement. Captain Cook being made acquainted with this difcovejry, he refolved to vifit them ; and, expe6ling the man« nerof his reception would be (ingular, he took Mr. Webber with him, to enable him to reprefent tha ceremony in a drawing. When arrived at the beach, the commodore was conduced to Harreno-Orono, or the houfe of Orono. On his approaching this facred place, he was featetf at the foot of a wooden idol, relembling that we had feen at the morai; ^ Here Mr. King again fupported one of his arms. He was then arrayed in red cloth, and Kaireekeea, affifted by 12 priofts, prefented a pig with the ufual ceremonies. After this folemnity, the pig was ftrangted, and thrown into the embers of a fire,' prepared for that puipofe. When' the hair Was finged off, a fecgnd offering was made, and the chanting repeated as before : after which the dead pig was held fome time under Captain Cook's nofe, Vol. VI. 11 N and it 1 38406 i K 1940 Cook'j thi&d and Last Voyage and then laid with a cocoa-nut. at his feet. This part of the ceremony being concluded, the perfor- mers fat down ; and the ava was brewed and handed about ; a baked bog was likewife brought in, and we were fed in the fame manner as before related on a iimilar occafion. While we continued in the Bay, whenever the commodore vifited the obferva- tory, Kaireekeea and his afliftants prefented them- felves before him, making an c»fFering of hogs-, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, &c. with the accudomed folemnities. Upon thefe occadons, fome of the in* ferior chiefs intreated permi(Bon to make an offer- ing to the Orono. If their requeft was complied with, they prefented the hog themfelves; in the performance of which, their countenance difplayed •that they were greatly impreHed with awe and ter- ror. Kaireekeea and the prieAs aflifted, perform- ing their accullomed orations and hymns. But thfir civilities extended beyond parade and ceremony : our party on fhore were fupplied daily by ihenv with hogs and vegetablies, fufficient for their fub- fiftence, and to fpare ; and cdnoes laden with provi- iions, were regularly fent off to the (hips. No- thing was demanded in' return ; n )t even the moft diftant hint was ever given, that they expelled the lead compenfation. Their manner of conferring favours, appeared more like the difcharge of a re- ligious duty, than the refult of mere liberality. Oa, our'afking to whom we were indebted for all ihh munificence, we were iaformed that it wm at the expence of Kaoo, the chief prieft, and grandfather to Kaireekeea, who was at this time in the fuit of the fovereign of the ifland. But we had lefs rea- fon to be fatisfied with the behaviour of the earees, or warrior chiefs, than with that of the priefts. In Qur intercoufe with the former, they were always fu£Bciently attentive to their own interefts; and, befides their propenHty to flealing, which may ad- mit of palliation from its univerfality in thefe feas, ihey j/". "> I To THE Pacific Ocian, &c. i^4^ they had other artifices equally dilhonourable* Th« following is one inftance, in which we difcovered,'' with regret, that our good friend Koah was a party principally concerned. The chiefs Who made us prefentsof hogs, were always generoufly rewarded; m confequence of which, we -were fupplied with mpre than we could confqme. On thefe occafions« Koah, who attended us conftantly, petitioned ufu- ally for thofe that we did not abfolutely want, and they were given him of courfe. A pig was one day preiented to us by a man, whom Koah introduced as a chief. The pig we knew to be one of thofe that had a ihort time before been given to Koah. Sufpe^ing an impofition, we found upon enquiry, that the pretended chief was one of the common pcvople ; and from other concurrent circumftances, we were perfectly, convinced, that this was not the firft time of our having been made the dupes of Koah*s low cunning. Sunday, the 24th, we were not a little furprized to find, that not any canoes were permitted to put off*, and that the natives were confined to their houfes. At length we were informed, that the bay was ta* booed, and that intercourfe with us was intcrdidled, on account of -the arrival of Terf eeoboo, their kirg. On the 25th, we endeavoured by threats and promifes, to induce the inhabitants to revifit the fliips. Some of them were venturing to put off, when we perceived a chief very adlive in driv- ing them away : to make him defift, a mufquet Was fired over his head, which produced the defired eSc6t ; for refreihments were foon after to be had as ufual. Ill the afternoon, the ihips were privately Vifitied by Terreeoboo, attended only by one canoe, ^nntaihinff his wife and family. When he entered the ihip, he fell on bis fsice, as a mark of fubn^if- fion to the commodore, as did all his attendanttf> and after having made an oration, which none of ^ dnderftood, he prefeatcd the captain with three barbicued ! • . I i— gsi ill I u tfim i i^ . w^ tp^ COOJC'S THIRD AND LAST VoTAGE th^ refpoiafes,. In.Uie perfpn of this king, wc werie furprized V^ recognise the fame emaciated old man, >who came on board the Refolution, from the N. £• fide of the ifland of Mo wee ; znd we perceived tJuC fever^jof ])is attei^dants were the iame perfons, ..who ac that tinie contiiiued with us the whple nigjxi. rj^imong thefe were -the king's two youngeji^ tons* the elder ahout the zse of fizteen; and Maib^l- Maiha,, his nephew, whom we could not iqamedl' ately reconecit^ having had his hair plaftereci over with a dirty pafte and powder, which was np ifinall .Ifnproyenxeht to the moft. favage countenaacf w!e~ ,|iao ever feen. The formalities of th^s meeting be- $0g fended. Captain Cook condn^led Teireeobob .juod feveral of hi? chiefs on board our ihip, where thipy were received with every poi^ble mark of ^t- teotjbn and refpedt ; and the comniO(j(ore, as a com* popfation for the feathered cloak, put a linen ihiit upon the fovereign, and girt his own hanger round him. Xaoo, and about half a dozen otlier apcient chiefs, remained on ilioie. All this time not a ca* noe was permitted to remain in the Bay, ^nd thole natives who did not con^ne th^mfelves to theirhuts, hy proftrate on the ground. Before the king .quit- ted thellefolution, he granted leave for the natiyeys to trade with us as ufual ; but the women, we know not on what account, were ilill interidicled by the taboo ; that is, to remain at home, and not have any kind of intercourfe with us^ At this time the behaviour of the inhabitants was fo civil and Inoffenfive, thit all apprehenfions of danger were totally vaniiUed. We trufted ourfelves among them at all times, and upon all occafions, without the jeatt referve. Our officers ventured frequently up the country, either fingly, or in fmall parties, and •Sometimes continued out the whole night. In all places the people flocked about us, anxious to af- »ford every aflillance in their power, and appearet^ highly gratified if we condeicended to accept ^ theu" To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 1945 their ferviccs. Variety of innocent arts were prac- tifed to attraft our notice, or to delay our depar- ture, The boys and girls ran through their vil- lages, ftopping us at every opening where there was a convenient fpot for dancing. At one time wc were folicited to take a draught of milk from cocoa- nuts, or to accept of fuch other refrefhment as their huts afforded ; at another we were encircled by a company of young women, who exerted»their (kill and ingenuity in amuiing us with fongs and dances : but though the inflances of their gencrofity and civility were pleafing to us, we could not but dif- like that propenfity to thieving, which at times they difcovered, and to which they were addided, like all the other iflanders in thefe feas : this was a perplexing circumflance, and . obliged us fome- times to exercife a feverity, which we ihould have been happy to have avoided, if it had not been eflentially neceffary. Some expert fwimmcrs were one day detected under the fhips, drawing out the filling nails from the iheathin?. This they per- formed very ingenioufly with a lint flone, fattened to the end of a ftick. This new art of ftealing was a pradice fo injurious to our veflels, that we fired fmall ihot at the offenders ; but that they avoided eaiily, by diving under the (hips bottoms : it there- fore became highly neceflary to make an example of one of them, which was done by giving him a good flogging on board our confort, the Difcovery, where his talent for thieving had been chiefly exer- cifed. Aboun this time, Mr. Nelfon, and four other gentlemen, fei; out on an excurfion into the coun- try, in order co examine its natural curiofities and produdions, au account of which will be giveil iiereafter. This afforded Kaoo a frelh opportunity of tedifying his civility, and exerting his friendly difpofition in our favour : for no fooner was he in- formed of the departure of our party, thap he fent after them a large quantity of provifions, with or* ^o. 70. II O ders I' i'..; Ji II 1946 Cook's third and f aSt Voyage ders that every attention and afliftance ihould be granted them by the inhabitants of thofe diftri^s through which they ihould pafs. His civility on this occafion was fo delicate and difinterefted, that even the people he employed were not permitted " to accept ot the fmalleft prefent. At the end of fix days the gentlemen returned, without having been able to penetrate farther than twenty miles into the ifland, owing partly to improper guides, and partly to the nature of the country, whidh occa- fioned this expedition to be attended with no fmall fatigue, and (ome danger. Mr. Nelfon, however, colleded a curious aflbrtment of indigenous plants, a^d fome natural curiofities. During their abfence, every thing remained quiet at the tents, and the natives fupplied the (hips with fuch quantities of provifions, of all kinds, that orders were again given to purchafe no more hogs in one day, than could be killed, falted, and ftowed away the next day. This order was in confequence of a former one, to purchafe all that could be procured for fea ftock, by which fo many of them were brought on board, that feveral of them died before they could be pro- perly difpofcd of. On Wednefday, the 27th, in the morning, the rudder of our fliip was uhhung, and ftnt on fliore, in order to undergo a thorough repair. The car- penters at the fame time were fent into the country, under the pi'otecl:ion and guidance of fome of Kaoo's people, to get planks tor the head rail work, which was become rotten and decayed. In a vifit, on the 2Hth, from Terreeoboo to Captain Gierke, the lat- ter received a prefent of 30 large hogs, and fuch a quantity of vegetables as could not be confumed by his crew in lels than a week. This being an un- expected vilit, made it the more extraordinary. Not having feen any of the fports or exercifes of the natives, at our particular requeft, they enter- tained us in the evt^ning with a boxing match. A . yaft To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 1947 vaft concourfe of people affembled on a level fpot of ground, not far diftant from our tents. In the centre, a long vacant fpace was left for them, at the upper end of which the arbitrators prefided, under three ftandards. Slips of cloth of various colours, were pendant from thefe ftandards; as were the Ikins of two wild geefe, fome fmall bird^, and a few bunches of feathers. The fports being ready to begin, the judges gave the fignal, and two combatants appeared ^n view. They advanced flowly, drawing up their feet very high behind, and rubbing their hands upon the foles. As they came forward, theyfurveyed each other frequently from head to foot, with an air of contempt, look- ing archly at the fpeftators, diftortihg their fea- tures, and pracliling a variety of unnatural gefturesj When they were advanced within the reach of each other, they held both arms ftraight out before their faces, at which part they always aimed their blows. They ftruck with a full fwing of the arm, which to us had a very awkard appearance. They did not attempt to parry; but endeavoured to elude their adverfary's attack, by ftooping, or re- treating. The battle was decided expeditiouily ; for if either of them fell, whether by accident, or from a blow, he was deemed vanquiflied ; and the viftor exprefled his triumph by a variety of ftrange geftures, which ufually excited a loud luigh among the fpcctators, for which purpofe it feemed to be calculated. The fuccefsful combatant waited for a liecond antagonift ; and, if again victori- ous, for a third ; and fo on, till at laft he was defeated. In thefe combats it was very (ingular, that, when any two are preparing to attack each other, a third may advance, and make choice of cither of them for his antagonift, when the other is under the neceflity of withdrawing. If the com- bat proved long and tedious, or appeared unequal, a chief generally interfered, and concluded it by 11 O 2 ' putting • J ,•■: w X948 Cook's tIiird and last Voyage putting a flick between the combatants. As this exhibition was at our deiue, it was univerfally ex- |)efted, that fome of us would have engaged with the natives ; but, though our pet pic received pref- iing invitations to bear a part, they did not hearken to the challenges, not having forgot the blows they received at the Friendly Iflands. This day died VVilliata Watman, a mariner of the gunner's crew, '^his event we mention particularly, leeing death had hitherto been uncommon among us. He was a man in years, and much refpe^led by Captain Cook. He had ferved twenty-one years as a marine, and then entered as a feamen in 1772, Oil board the Rcfolution, and ferved with the comr niodore in his voyage towards the South Pole. On their return he got admittance into Greenwich Hofpital, at the fame time with himfelf ; and anx- ious to follow the fortunes of his benefador, he alfo quitted it with him, on the commodore's ap- pointment to the command of the prefent expedi- tion. Watman had often been fubjecl: to flight fe- vers, in the courfe of the voyage, and was very infirm when we arrived in the bay ; where, having been fent a few days on fiiore, he thought himfelf pcrfedly reftored, and requefled to return on board. His requeft was complied with. The day following he had a ftroke of the palfy^ which in two days afterwards put an end to his life. At the requeft of Terreeoboo, the remains of this faithful feaman were buried in the moral j the ceremony being per- formed with great folemnity. Kaoo and his bre- thren were prefent at the funeral, who behaved with great decorum, and paid due attention while the fervice was performing. On our beginning to fill up the grave, they approached it with great awe, and threw in a dead pig, together with fome cocoa- nuts and plantains. For three fuccelTive nights they furrounded it, facrificing hogs, and reciting prayers and hymns till morning. At the head of 2 the To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 1949 Che grave, we eredled a poft, and nailed thereto a piece of board, whereon was infcribed the name and age of the deceafed, and the day of his de- parture from this life. Thefe memorials we were afTured they would not remove, and, it is probable, they will be permitted to remain, fo long as fuch frail materials can endure. Being much in want of fuel. Captain Cook de- fired Mr. King to treat with the priefts, for the purchafe of the railing belonging to the morai. Mr. King had his douots refpefting the decency of this overture, and apprehended the propofd might be deemed impious ; but in this he was much miuaken : for an application being made for the fame, they exprefled no kind of furprize, and the wood was delivered ^without the leaft. ftipulation. While our people were taking it away, Mr. King faw one of them with a carved image ; and, upon enquiry, he was informed, that the whole femicir- Cle (as mentioned in the defcription of the morai) had been carried to the boats. Though the natives were fpe<^ators of this buiinefs, they did not feem to refent it ; but on the contrary, had even aflifted in the removal. Mr. King thought proper to mention the particulars to Kaoo ; who feemed exceedingly indifferent about the matter, begging him only to reftore the center image ; which was immediately done, and it was conveyed to one of the priefts houfes. ^^r fome time, the king^ and his chiefs, had been very importunate to know the time of our depar- ture. From this circumftance, Mr. King's curiofity was excited to know the opinion thele people had entertained of us, and what they fuppoied to be the objeft of our voyage. He took confiderable pains to fatisfy himielf refpe^king thefe points ; but the only information he could get was, that they fup- polbd we had left our native* country on account of the fcantinefs of providons, and that we had vifited ' ' them A ^^HP i ■ '1 ■ ( 1950 Cook's third and lastVoyage them for the fole purpafe of filling our bellies. This conclufion was natural enough, confidering the meagre appearance of fome of our crew ; the vora- city with which we devoured their fre(h provifipns ; and our anxiety to purchafe as much of it as we were^ able. It wds a matter of entertainment to fee the natives patting the bellies of the failors (who were much improved in fleeknefs llnce their arrival at the bay) and telling them, in the beft manner they could) that it was time for them to depart ; but if they would return the next bread-fruit feafon, they fliould be better able to fupply them. We had now continued fixteen days in the bay, during which time our confumption of hogs and vegetables, had been fo enormous, that we need not be lurprized at their wifhing to fee us take our leave. But Ter- reeoboo had, perhaps, no other view, in his en- quiries, than a defire of having fuflicientnotJce, to prepare fuitable prefents for us at our departure ; for when we informed him of our intention to quit theifland in two days, a kind of proclamation was made, requiring the natives to bring in their hogs, and vegetables, for Terreeoboo to prefent to the Orono. We were this day much entertained, at the beach, with the buffooneries of one of the natives. He held in his hand an inftrument of mufic, fuch as we have already defcribed : bits of fea-weed were faf- tened round his neck ; and, round each leg, fome ftrong netting ; whereon were fixed rows of dogs teeth, hanging lopfe. His dancjng was accompa- nied with ftrange grimaces, and unnatural diHor- tions of the features, which were fometimes highly ridiculous, and, upon the whole, without meaning or expreiHon. But the wreftling and boxing matches afforded us good diverfion for the evening ; and, in return, we exhibited the few fire-works w^ had remainirg. Nothing could more efFe^lually excite the admiration of thefc iflanders, or flrike them To THt Pacific Ocean, &c» 1951 them with more exalted ideas of our Aiperiotitf , than fuch a reprefcntation : notwithftanding this was, in every rcfpeft, much inferior to that exhi- bited at Hapaee, yet the aftonifliment of thefepeo- J)le was equally great. The carpenters who had been fent Up the coun- try to cut planks for the head rail-work of our (hip, the Refolution, had now been gone three days, and, not having heard from them, we began to be alarmed for their fafety. We expreffed our appre- heniions to Kaoo, who appeared equally concerned with ourfelves 5 but while we were planning mea- fures with him, for fending proper perfons after them, they all fafely arrived. Our people had gone farther into the country than they expefted, before they found any trees fuitable for their purpofe. This circumftance, together with the badncfs of the roads, and the difficulty of conveying timber to the ihips, had fo long detained them. They beftowed high commendations on their guides, who not only fupplied them with provifions, but faithfully pro- tecled their tools. Having fixed on Thurfday, the 4th of February, for our departure, Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook, and Mr. King, to attend him on the 3d, to Kaoo*s refidence. On our arrival there, we faw large quantities of cloth fcattered on the ground ; abundance of red and yellow feathers, faftened to the fibres of cocoa-nut hulks ; and plenty of hatchets and iron ware, which had been received from us in barter. Not far from thefe was depo* fited an immenfe quantity of various kinds of ve- getables ; and at a little diftance, a large herd of hogs. We fuppofed, at firft, that the whole was intended as a prefent for us ; but we were informed by Kaireekeea, that it was a tribute to the king, from the inhabitants of that diftrict. We were no fooner ieated than the bundles were brought, and laid feverally at Terrceoboo*s feet j and the cloth, feathers, and iron, were difplayed before him.. The king 1952 Cook's third and '.ast Voyage king was perfeAIy fatisfied with this mark of duty from his people; and having feledled about one third of the iron utenfils, one third of the feathers, and fome pieces of cloth, he ordered thefe to be feC afide by themfelves ; and the remainder of the cloth, hogs, vegetables, &c. were afterwards pre- fented to Captain Cook and Mr. King. The value and magnitude of this prefent, far exceeded any thing that we had before received. The whole was immediately conveyed on board; and the large hogs were fet apart for fca (lores ; but the fmaller pigs and vegetables, were divided between the crews. The fame day we quitted the morai, and got our obfervatories on board. The taboo was removed, and, with it vaniilied its magical effects ; for as foon as we had quitted the place, the people ruflied in, and vigilantly fearched, in hopes of finding fome valuable articles left behind. Mr. Kinpj being the laft on fhore, and waiting for the return of the boat, the inhabitants crowded about him, and having prevailed upon him to fit down among them, exprefled their regret at our fepara- tion. It was even with difliculty that they would fufier him to depart. Having had, while wc lay in the bay, the command of the party on fhore, he became more acquainted with the natives, than thofe who were required to be on board. From the in- habitants in general, he experienced great kind- nefs ; but the friendfliip fhewn by the priefts was conftant and unbounded. On the other hand, Mr. King was anxious to conciliate their eileem ; in which he fo happily fucceeded, that when they were made acquainted with the time of our departure, he was urged to remain behind, and received over- tures of the moft flattering kind. When he en- deavoured to excufe himfelf, by alledging, that the commodore would not permit it, they propofed to condud him to the mountains, and there conceal him till the departure of the (hips. On Mr. King's afluiing To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 1953 stfluring them that the {hips would not fail without him, the King and Kaoo repaired to Captain Cook, (whom they fuppofed to be his father) rcquefting formally, that he might be fufFered to remain be- hind. The comnoodore, unwilling to give a pofitive refufal, to a propofal fo generoufly intended, aflured them, that he could not part with him at prefent, but he fliould return thither the next year, when he would endeavour to oblige them. On Thurfday the 4th of February, early in the morning, having unmoored, the Refolution and Difcovery fet fail, and cleared the harbour, attended by a vaft number of canoes. We propofed to ihape our courfe for Mowee ; as we had been informed, that in the ifland there was a fine harbour, and ex« cellent water, but Captain Cook intended to fini(h firft the furvey of Owhyhee, before he went thither, hoping to meet with a road more (heltered than Karakakooa Bay. We had not been long under fail, when the king, who had omitted to take his leave of Captain Gierke, as not expelling our de- parture to be fo fudden, came after the fliips, ac- companied by the young prince, in a failing canoe, bringing with them ten large hogs, a great number of fowls, and a fmall turtle (a great rarity) with bread-fruit in abundance. They alfo brought with them great quantities of cocoa-nuts, plantains, and fugar-canes. Befides other perfons of diftindlion, who accompanied the king, there was an old pried, who had always fhewn a particular attachment to Captain Clerke, and who had not been unrewarded for his civility. It being rather late when they reached the Difcovery, they ftaid on board but a few hours, and then all departed, except the old prieft, and fome girls, who had the King*s permiffion to remain on board, till they fhould arrive at fome oi the neighbouring ifles. We were now (leering with a fine breeze, but jiift at the clofe of the evenings to our great mortification, the wind died away, and No. 71. i^ i* 4^ a great 1^54 Cook'u third and last Votagi a great fwcll fucceeding, with a ftrong current fet- ting right in fpr ihore, we were in the utmoft dan- ger, particularly the Difcovery, of being driven upon the rocks. At this time the old prieft, who had been fent to deep in the great cabin, leaped over- board unfeen with a large piece of Huilian filk. Captain Gierke's property, and fwam to fhore. On Friday the 5th, we had calm weather, and made but little way. Seeing a large canoe between us and the ihore, we hove to for her coming up, and to our great furprize perceived the old kine, with feveral of his chiefs, having with them the pried who had ilolen the filk, bound hand and foot, whom the king delivered to Captain Clerke, at the fame time requeuing that his fault might be for- given. The king being told his requeft was granted, unbound him, and fet him at liberty; telliiigthe cap- tain that, feeing him with the ifilk, he judged it was not his own, therefore ordered him to be ap- prehended ; and had taken this method of expofing him, for having injured his friend. This was a lingular inftance of juflice, which we did not ex- peft to fee among thefe people. As foon as they had delivered the (ilk, which the king refufed to ac- cept, they departed. Having a light breeze in the night, we made a little progrefs to the northward. On Saturday the 6th, in the morning, we were abreaft of a deep bay, called by the natives Toe- yah-yah. We flattered ourfelves with finding a commodious harbour here ; for we faw fome fine ftreams of water to the N. £. and the whole ap- peared to be well flieltered. Thefe obfervations feeming to tally with the accounts given by Koah, who was now on board the Refolution, the mailer was fent in the pinnace, with Koah as his guide, to examine the bay ; but, before they fet off, Koah altered his name, out of compliment to us, to that of Britannee. In the afternoon, the weather be- came gloomy, and fiieh violent gufts of wind blew^ J - off To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 1955 off the land, that we were obb'ged to take in all the fails, and bring to, under the n,izcn-ftvith the butt end of his mufquet. A general attack with iloncs fuccccded, and the quarrel became general. C)ii our lide, the guns from the (hips began to \>imr in their fire upon the multitude of natives, as di.l like- wife the marine guard, and thofe from the Ions ; neverthelefs, though the flaughter among the iiltn- ders was great, yet, enraged as they were, the/ flood an inceflant fire with aftonifoi/ng intrepidity ; and, without giving time for the marines to charge again, they rumed m upon them with horrid fliouts ind yells. What followed was a fcene of horror and confufion, which can more cafily be conceived than related. Four of the marines, corporal Tho- mas, and three privates, namely Hinks, Allen, and Fadget, retreated among the rqcks, and fell vi^ims to the fury of tht enemy. Three others were dan- geroufly wounded ; and the lieutenant, who had received a (lab between the (houlders with a pa- hooa, having fortunately referved his fir'?, (hot the man who ha4 wounded him, iuft as he was going to repeat his blow. The laft time our commodore was di(lin(^Iy fees, he was (landing at the water's f^ge, ordering the boats to ceafe firing, and pull ia^ when a bafe afla(&n, coming behind him, and ilriking him on the head with his club, felled him to the ground, in fuch a direction, that he lay with hii face |iroae in the water. A general ihout was jto.71. ti H fee BB %-i:. 5 I.p70. C a O K '^S . 1 H 4 R ■) A NJ3 ^ A S T . Y V A.C ^ Cct up by thb iflanders on feeing the captar4;fal^ ^ilcJ his body was dragged on (hole, where fie was furroiidded by the enemy^, who", fnatching the dag; gcr 'from /each other's hands, dilplayed a favage eagernefs to join in his deftruftioii. It fhoiild feen^ that their venMance was diredled chiefly againft our cbmnrodore, by whom they fuppo(ed their king Vas to bft dragged on boaid, and puniflied at.diP cretion ; for, having iecured his body, they fled without much regarding the reft of the flain, ope df Twhom they thre\ ^ into the fea. • it Thus ended the lite of the greateft navigator that this or any other n^ ;on could ever boaft of: who led his crews of gallant Britifli feamen twice round the wbrld ; reduced to a certainty the non-exiftence of a Southern continent, about which the learned of all nations ii^erd 'in doubt ; fettled the boundaries of the eat^ '4^d feaj'and denionftrated the im- prad)!icability 6t a N; W. paflage frohx the Atlantic to the great Sbutbdrn Ocean, for which our ablefl: geographers hi:i'd contended, and inpurfuitof which vaArfums had been fpent in vain, and many valua- ble mariners had mtferably perilhed. His death wai^ doubtlefs premature -, yet he lived to accompliih the great undertaking for which he feemed particularly. deHgned. - How (incerety his lofs was lamented, (w'e fpeak here in the language of his panegyrift) by thofe who owed their fecurity to his fltill an4 Conduct, ^nd every confolation to his tendernefs and humanity, it is impoflible todefciibe; and the tafk would be equally difti<;ult to reprefent the hor- ror, deje(^ion, and difmay, which followed fo' dreadful aifi unexpected a cataftrophe. Let us thf^rcfore turn frOm fo mournful a Icene, to th^ picaling contemplation of his virtues, character, ^d public fervires, the hiftory of which our r^a? ders will find in the fubfequcnt chapter. ., ['..^ CHAP. .«r4 Colville, who had then the command of a Squadron ftationed on the cpaft of America. It wasi ^r^, as he has often been heard to fay, that, during « tiard winter, he firft read Euclid, and applied to the ftudy of the mathematics and aftronomy, with- out any afliftance than what ^ few books, and his ttwn ipduftry afforded* At the fame done, that he thus iound means to cultivate his underftanding, iitoprove his mind, and fupply the deficiencies of an ' \€itiy education, he was engaged in moil of the bufy and a£Uyefcenes of the war in America. At the fiege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders com- mitted to Iiis charge the execution of fcrvices, of the firft importance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency ; conducted the embarkation to the heights of Abra- l^am, examine^ the paflage, and hid buoys for the /ccurity of th^ large Ihips iii proceeding up the river. To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 1973 river. The courage and addrefs with which he ac* quitted himfelf in thefe Xervices, gained him the warm friendfliip of Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colville, whowcontinued to patronize him during the i^ of their lives, with the grcatcft zeal and affedton. On the I ft of April 1760, he received a cotomil^ fion as a lieutenant, and foon after a fpecimen of thoie abilities, which recommended him to the com«> mands, in the execution whereof he fo highly dxC- played his merit, that his name will be handed down to ipofterity, as one of the moft ikilfiil navigators which this country hath produced. In 1 7 ^5 he was with Sir William Barnaby, on the Jamaica ftation ; ai^d behaved in fuch a manner as gained him the ' approbation of the admiral. At the <:oncIufion of the war, he was appointed, through the recom* mendation of Lord Colville, and Sir Hugh Pallifer, to furvey theGulph of St. Lawrence, and the coafts of Newfoundland. In this employment he conti* nued till the y^ar 1767, when the Royal Society re- folved, that it would be proper to fend a navigator into the South Seas, to obferve the Tranlit of the planet Venus over the Sun's diik ; and Otaheite be* ing fixed upon, the Endeavour, a §np built for thc{ coal trade, was put into commiifion, and the com* mand cf her given to Lieutenant, the late Captaia Cf yk,, vho was appointed with Mr, Charles Green to :? ^rrve the Tranlit* In this voyage he was ac^ cottij; iv.cd byjofeph Banks, Efq. fince Sir Jofeph,^ and Dr. Sulander, and other ingenious artifts. Thei Tranfit of Venus was obferved in different parts o^ theiiland, and the captain returned, after havii^ be-, ingabfent almoft three years, in which period he had made difcoveri.'^ equal to all the navigators of his- countrv, from the time of Columbus to the prefent., I ; im this period, as his fervices increafed in ufeful- a*'' to the public, fo his reputation advanced to 1. ^^^I^it too great for our encomiums to reach. Per- ^'•:, haps ** i974'Cook's third and last VotA6E baps ncrfcJence ever received greater additionsf!rom the labours of a fingle man, than geography ha% done from thofe of Captain Cook 5 who, in hisfirft voyage to the South Seas difcovered the Society Ifles J determined the infularity of New Zealand ; difcovered the ftraits which fepar^e the two iflands, called after his name; and made a complete furvey of both. He afterwards explored the eaftern coaft of New Holland, hitherto unknown ; an extent of iy dcg. of lat. or upwards of 2,000 miles. Soon after the captain's return to England, it was refolved to eqaip two fhips to complete the difcor very of the Southern hemifphere. It had long been a prevailing idea, that the unexplored part con- tained anot; ?'* continent. To afcertain the fa6t was the prin^ objeA of this expedition,;- and that nothing m^^ht be omitted that could tend to facilitate the eriterprize, two fhips were provided ;^ the one, the Refolution, under the command of Captain Cook ; the other, the Adventure, com- manded by Captain Furneaux. In this fecond ex- |icdition round the world, Captain Cook refolved the great problem of a fouthern continent ; having fo completely traverfed that hemifphere, as not to }eave a poffibility of its exiftence, unlefs ib near the pole, as to be beyond thcreach of navigation. In this voyage New Caledonia, the largeft iflind in the Southern Pacific Ocean, except New Zealand, was difcovered ; as was alfo the ifland of Georgia ; and an unknown coaft, which the captain named Sandwich land; and having twice vifited the tro- pical feas, he fettled the fituatioris of the old difco* veries, and made feveral new ones. The want of fuccefs which attended Captain Cook's attempt to difcover a Southern Continent, did not let afide another plan which had been re- commended fome time before. This was no other than the finding out a N. W. pafl'age, which the hincy of fcmc chimerical projectors had conceived to To THE Pacific Ocean, &€• 15^75 to be 'a.pra£licable fcheme. His (ervices were re* quired. for this arduous undertaking, and be ofiered them without hesitation. This third and laft voyage is diftinsu' "^led by.vthe extent and importance of its difcovenes. Not to mention feveral fmaller iflands in the Southern Pacific, Captain Cook difcovered the group, north of the equinoxiallifie, called Sandwich Iliahas ; which^ on account of their iituation and- produdions, may perhaps become an objed of more confequence, than any other difcovery m the South $ea. He explored what had remained before un- known of the weftern coaft of America, an extent of 37 00 miles; afcertained the proximity of the two ooQiinents of Alia and America ; failed through the ftraits between them, and furveyed the coafts on each fide, fo far as to be fatisfied of the imprac- ticability of a paflage in that hemifphere, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, by an eaflern or weftern coaft. In ihort, he conipleated the hydo**. graphy of the habitable globe, if we except the Ja-/ panefe Archipelago, and- the fea of Amur, which are ftill known imperfeclly by Europeans. Through- out this voyage it muft be ^onfeffed, that his fer- vices as a navigator, are important and meritorious, • The. methods which he invented, and fo fuccefs- fully put in practice, of preferving the health, (and confequently the lives) of feamen, will tranfmit his name to future ages, as a friend and benefactor of mankind. It is well known among thofe who are converfant in naval, hiftory, that the advantages which have been fought, through the medium of long, fea voyages, have always been purchafed at a dear rate. That dreadful diforder which is pecu^ liar, to this fervice, muft, without exercifing an unwarrantable, degree of tyranny over our feamen, ha^c been ac infuperable obftacle to our enterprizes. It '.was referved for Captain Cook to convince the wd^dith^t voyages might be protracted to three, or even iotir years, in unknown regions, and under a every t^jS Cook'* tHiRb and last Votaos every chaii^e of climate, tirithout affe^ng the keakh, in the fdnalleft decree, and even without diminifhing the probability of life. A few months after his departure from England, notwithftanding he was then abfent, the Kth^sA Society voted him Sir Godfrey Coj^ley's ^o\d medal, as a reward fdr the account) which he had tranfmitted to that body, of the method taken to preferve the health of the crew of his (hip. Captain Cook was a married man, and left feveral children behind him. On each of thefe his Majefty has fettled a penfion of twenty-five pounds a yeir^ and two hundred pounds per annum on his widow. The conftitution of this ^eat and unparalleled navigator, was robuft both by nature and habit ; his body having been inured to labour, and ren- dered capable of undergoing the feVereft hairdfhips. His flomach bore, without complaining, the moft coarfe and ungrateful food. Indeed he fubmitted, with an eafy felf denial, to wants of every kind, which he endured with remarkable indi£(erence. The qualities of his mind were of the fame hardy vigorous kind with thofe of his body. His under- ilanding was ftrong and quick-fighted : his judg- ment, in whatever related to the fervices he was engaged in, quick and fure : his defigns were bold and daring, yet manly and difcreet. His courage was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admirable prefence of mind, in the moment of danger. His manners were plain and unafFefled. Some have cenfured his temper as fubjed to hafti- nefs and pailion ; but let it be con fidered, that thefe were counteraded, and frequently difarmed, by a difpofition benevolent and humane. There are thofe who have blamed Captain Cook for his feve- rity to the natives of different iOands which we viuted ; but it was not to thefe alone he wasfeverc i^ his difcipUne. He never fufFered any fault in hifl own people, though ever io trivial, to efcape un« puniflicd* •'k ). V*' To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 1977 punifhed. If they were charged with infultiag a native, or injuring him in his property, if the fad was proved, the offender feldom efcaped unpunilhed. By this impartial diftribution of equal juftice, the natives themfelves conceived fo high an idea of his wifdom, and his power too, that they paid him the honours beftowed on their Eatooa, or good fjpirit. This is certain, that a moft diftingui£hing feature' in Captain Cook's chara6ter was, that unremitting perfeverance in the purfuit of his object, which was not only fuperior to the oppofition of dangers, and the preffure of hardfliips, but even exempt from the want of ordinary relaxation. During the three long voyages in which he was engaged, his eager* ncfs and adivity were never in the leaft abated. No incidental temptation could detain him for a moment ; even thofe intervals of recreation, which fometimes occurred unavoidably, and were looked for by us with a longing that perfons who have ex- perienced the fatigues of fervice will readily excufe, were fubmitted to by him with a certain impatietice, whenever they could not be employed in making further provifions for the profecution of his deiigns. Iri the courfe of this work, we have "faithfully enumerated all the particular inftances in which thefe qualities were difplayed, during the great and important enterprizes in which he was engaged : and we have likewife ftated the refult of thofe fer- vices, under the two principal heads to which they may be referred, thofe of geography and naviga- tion, each of which we have placed in a feparate and diftinft point of view. We cannot clofe thefe memoirs, without taking a flight retrofpeft view of the tragical end of this truly great and worthy fea officer. It was imagined by foinc of thofe who were prefent, that the ma- rines, and thofe who were in the boats, fired with- out Captain Cook's orders, and that he was anxi- ous to prevent the farther effufion of blood ; it is No. 72. 1 1 S therefore 197^ Cook's third iMb tASlr Voyage therefore probable, that, on this orcaiion, his hu- manity proved fatal to him ; for it was obferved^ that while he faced the natives, no violence had been offered him ; but when he turned about to give directions to the boats, he immediately re*: ceived the fatal blow. Whether this was mortal or not it 19 impofTible for any one to determine ; but we are informed by a gentleman on board the Difcovery, whofe veracity is unqueftionable, that tliere was time fufiicient to have fecured the body of our brave commander, had a certain lieutenant, who commanded a boat of the fame ihip, pulled in, indead of making off. We do not mention the name, but if our information is an undeniable fa^^ the dailardly oilicer merits juftly that contempt and poverty, to which it is faid he is at prefent reduced* We beg leave further to obferve, that the natives had certainly no intention at firft of deftroying Captain Cook, or any of his party. The caufe firft originated in the death of the Eree, who was fhot by one of our people in the boat : it was this circumftance which alarmed them, and, in confe- quence of this it Was that they armed themfelves. At this period Captain Cook might have returned on, board with fafcty ; but he was unfortunate in miiling the man who behaved infolent to him, and fhooting another ; he was unfortunate in the firing of the marines ; and equally fo in the firing of th« people in the launch ; all which happened in the ipaqe of a few minutes. In fliort, all the caufes that brought on the death of this much lamented circumnaviojator, were produced by a chain of events whicii could no more be forefeen than pre- vented. His memory we leave to the gratitude and admiration of poftcrity. We now proceed to relate thofe particulars, that have come to our knowledge, and which happened fubfequent to the death of Captain Cook. We have before obfcrved, that four or the marines, who ac- ^- companied To THE PaCIF IC OCE AN, &c. 1979 CQmpanied the commodore, were killed by the na- tives-, the furvivors, with Mr. Phillips, their lieu- tenant, threw themfelvcs into the fea, and made their efcape, being protedled by a fmart fire from the boats. On this occafion, a ftriking inftance of gallant behaviour, and of affection for his men, was difplaved by Mr. Phillips ; for he had fcarcely got into tne boat, whien, feeing one of the marines, who was not a very expert fwimmer, firuggling in the water, and in danger of being taken by the iflanders, he inftantly leaped into the fea to his ailiftance, though confiderably wounded himfelf; and after receiving a blow on his head from a Hone, which had almoft fent him to the bottom, he caught the marine by the hair, and brought him off in fafety. Our people for fometime kept up aconftant fire from moft of the boats (which, during the whole tranfac- tion, were at no greater diftance from the land than twenty yards), in order to afford their unfortunate companions, if any of them fhould ftill remain alive, an opportunity of^ effecting their efcape. Thefe ef- forts, feconded by few guns, that were, at the fame time, fired from the HefoUniof), having at length compelled the enemy to retire, a fmall boar, manned by five midfhipmen, pulled towards the ihore, where they perceived the bodies lying on the ground without any figns of life. However, they judged it dangerous to attempt to bring them off withfo inconfiderable a force; and their ammunition being nearly confumed, they returned to the Ihips, leaving the bodies in poffefiion of the natives, tOj gether with ten (lands of arms. After the general conflernation, which the news of this misfortune had diffufed throughout the whole company of both ihips, had in fome degree fubfided, their attention was called to the party at the morai, where the maft and fails were on fhore, guarded by only fix marines. It is difiicult to defcribe the emotions that agitated the minds of II S 2 Mr. 1980 Cook's third and la it Voyage Mr. King and his attendants, at this lUtion» during the time in which thei'e occurrences had happened, at the other fide of the bay. Being at the diftance only of a mile from the village of Kowrowa, they could diilinclly perceive a vaS multitude of. people coUccfted on the fpot where Captain Cook hadjuft before lauded. They heard the firing of the muf- qucts, and obferved an uncommon biillle and agita- tion among the crowd. They afterwards faw the .iilandcrs retrttatmg, the boats retiring from the ,iho» c, and pafTmg and repalTing, with great ftillnefs, .betv^een tljc^lhips. Mr. King's heart loon mifgave him on this occalion. Where fo valuable Hl life was concerned, he could not avoid being alarmed by .iuch new and threatening appearances. Befides this, he knew that Captain Cook, froni a longferies of fuccefsjin his tranfadtions with the natives of this' ocean, had acquired a degree of confidence, which might, in fome ill-fated moment, put him too much . off his guard ; and Mr. King now faw all the (dan- gers to which that confidence might lead, without deriving much confolation from. the confideration of the experience which had given rife to it. His fitft care, on hearing the report of the mufquets, was to afiiure the iflanders, confiderable numbers of whom were aflembled round the wall of our conib- cratcd field, and feemed at a lofs how to account for what they had heard and feen, that thi^y fhould meet with no moleflation ; and that, at all events, he was inclined to continue on peaceable terms with them. In this fituation, Mr. King and his attendants re- mained till the boats had returned on board> when Captain Clerfce perceiving,^ by means of his tele* fcope, that our party was furrounded by the natives, who, he thought, defigned to attack them, ordered two four- pounders to be fired at the iilanders^ Thcfe guns, thdugh well aimed, did no ihiichief^, but thpy gave the natives a convincing proof of 2 their To THE Pacific Ocean, S:c. i9ac their powerful efFcfts. A cocoa-nut tree, under wliich feme of them were fitting, was broken in the middle by one of the balls ; and the other (hi- vered a rock, which ftood in an exaft line with ihcm. As Mr. King had, juft before^ given them the ftrongeft aflurances of tlieir fafety, he was ex- tremely mortified at this adt of hoftility, and, to prevent its being repeated, inftantly difputchcd a boat to inform Captain Gierke, that he was, at prei'ent, on the moft amicable terms with the iflan- dcrs, and that, if any future occ^fion fhoiiJd arife for chuiging his conduft towards them, he woukl hoift .1 jack, as a fignal for Captain Gierke to afforri him fiib afiiftance. Mr. King waited the return of the boat with the greateft impatience ; and after remaining for the Ipacc of a quarter of an hour, under the utmoft anxiety and fufpence, hia fears were at length confirmed, by the arrival of Mr. Bligh, with orders to ftrike the tents immediately, and to fend on board the fails, that were repairing. At the fameinftant, Kaireekeea having alfo received information of the death of Captain Cook, from a native who had arrived from the other fide of the bay, approached Mr. King, with great dejection and forrow in his countenance, enquiring whether it was true. At this time the utuation of the party was highly critical and important. Not onfy their own lives, but the iflue of the expedition, and the return of at lead one of the ihips, were involved in the fame common danger. They had the maft of the Refolution, and the greater part of the fails, on ihore, proteded by only half a dozen marines. The lofs of thefe would have been irreparable $ and though the ifl^ders had not as yet teftified the finalieft difpofition to moleft the party, it was dif- ficult to anfwer for the alteration, which the intel^ ligence of the (ranfadlion at Kowrowa aiight pro- duce. Mr. King .therefore thought proper to dif- .fonble his belief of the death of Oiptaia Cook, and to 1983 Cook's third and last Voyage to defire Kaireekeea to difcourage tke report ; ap- prehending that either the fear of our refentment, or the fuccefsful example of their countrymen, might perhaps lead them to feiee the favourable op- portunity, which at this tiipe prefented itfelf, of giving us a fecond blow. He, at the fame time, advifed him to bring old Kaoo, and the other priefts, into a large houfe adjoining to the morai, partly from a regard to their lafety, in cafe it fhould have been found neceflary to have recourfe to violent meafures ) and partly from a defire of having him near our people, in order to make ufe of his au- thority with the natives, if it could be inflrumental in maintaining peace. Having ftationed the maries on the top of the morai, wnich formed a iirong and advantageous poft, he intruded the command to Mr. Bligh, who received the mod politive diredions to acl: folcly on the defeniive ; and he then went on board the Dif- covery, in order to confer with Captiun Gierke, on the dangerous fituation of our affairs. , He had no fooner left the fpot, than the iflanders began to an- noy our people with ftones; and juft after he hud reached the fliip, he heard the firing of the marines. He therefore haftily returned on fhore, where he found affairs growing every moment more alarm- ing. The natives were providing arms, and put-- ting on their mats ; and their numbers augmented very fafl. He alfo obfcrved feveral large bodies advancing towards our party along the clilF, by which the village of Kakooa is feparated from the north iide of the bay, where Kowrowa is fituate. At firft they attacked our people with flcnes from behind the walls of their inclofuiies, and meeting with no reiiflance, they foon became more daring. A few courageous fellows, having crept along the beach, under cover of the rocks, fuddenly pre- fented themfelves at the foot of the morai, with an intention of florming it on the fide next the fea, which was its only accefliblfc part ; and they were nor to THE Pacific Ocean, ic» 1983; not diflodKed before they had ftood a confiderable quantity 0? (hot, and had fecn one of their number fall. The amazing courage of one of thcfe affaijants defcrves to be recorded. Having returned with a view of carrying off his companion, amidft the fire of our whole party, he received a wound, which obliged him to quit the body, and retire ; but, a few minutes afterwards, he again made his appear* ance, and receiving another wound, was under the neceility of retreatmg a fecond time. At that mo* ment Mr. King arrived at the morai, and faw this man return a third time, faint from the lofs of blood and fatigue. Being informed of what had hap- pened, he forbad the foldiers to fire ; and the iflander was fuffered to carry off his friend, which he was jull able to accompliih ) and then fell down Mmfelf, and breathed his laft. About this time a ftrong re- inforcement from both ihips having landed, the natives retreated behind their walls ; which afford- ing Mr. King accefs to the prieffs, he fent one of them to exert his endeavours to bring his country- men to fome terms, and to propofe to them, that if they would deiill from throwing ftones, he would not allow our men to fire. This truce was agreed to, and our people were fuffered to launch the maft, and carry off the fails, aftronomical inffruments, &c. without moleftation. As foon as our party had quitted the morai, the iflanders took i}offeinon of it, and fome of them threw a few ftones, which, however, did no mifchief. Between eleven and twelve o'clock, Mr. King arrived on board the Dif-, covery, where he found that no decifive plan had been adopted fr»r the regulation of cur future pro- ceedings. The recovery of Captain Cook's bo4y», and the reftitution of the boat, were the objecb^ which, on all hands, we agreed to infift on ; and Mr. King declared it as his opinion, that fome vi- gorous methods fliould be put in execution, if; the demand of them fliouid not be inftantly cpm-; plied • • I 1994 Ceo K'STRIKD ABD LAST VoTAGft ^ted with. It taij juflly be %pofed tliat Mr. kiftg*s feelings, ofi tM death of a beloved and ris^ i]^s chaiaclcr, in this refpe^, from tht iinalleft -a To TH« PakciFic Ocean, &c^ 1985 iJKallcft d^;ree of fu^icaon ; that the bjehaviooxr o£ hia women, and the chiefs, might eafily be ac- counted for, from the appehenfions occafioned in fhiir minds by the armed force, with which Captain Cbok landed, and the hoftile preparations in the bay i appearances fo unfuitable to the confidence and friendfhip, in which both parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of the iflanders was mani- feiUy. with a dels^n to vefift the attempt, which they had feme realon to exped wouid be made, to carry off their fovereign by force^ and wa8 naturally to be expeded from a people who had a remarkable affedion for their chiefs. To thefe dilates of hu- manity, other motives of ?. prudential kind ^/ci e added; that we were in want of afupplyoiv.atGi;, ahd other refreihments i that the Rdblution's mic' maft would require fevcn or eight days work, he- fore it could be ftepped ; that the fpring was ad- vancing very faft ; and that the fpeedy profecutiou of our next expedition to the northward, ought now to beour fole objcft; and that, therefore, ta engage in a vindictive conted with the natives, might not only fubje6b us to the imputation o£ needlefs cinelty, but would require great delay in -the equipment of ourihips. In this latter opinion Captain tllerke concurred.; and though Mr. King ^as convinced, that an early and vigorous difplay of our refentment would have more effcduaUy an- fwered every obj^ both of prudence and huma- nity, he was, upon the whole, not forry th'^t the meafures he had recommended were rejeded For though the contemptuous behaviour of the idanders, ^nd their fubfequent oppofition to our neceflary -occupations on ihore, arifing mod probably from > mifconftrucbTon of our lenity, obliged uS at laft to have recourfe to violence in our own defence ; yet he was not certain that theciretmiftances of tbo cafe' would, in the opinion of the generality of peo- ple, have j unified the ufe of force, en our part« No. 72. II T ill n \i^^ Cook's third and j^ast Votaos in the firft inftance^ Cautionary feverityis ever invidioiu, and the rigour of a preventive meafurc^. '-when it is the mod fuccefsf ul, leaves its expediency the leaft apparent. During thefe deliberations, and while we wer9 thus engaged in concerting fome plan for our fu- ture operations', a very numerous concourfe of the natives ftill kept pofleflion of the ihore ; and fome ^f them coming off in canoes, : -proached within •piftol-ihot of iixt fliips, and infulted us by various marks of defiance and contempt. It was extremely difficult to reftrain the feamen from the ufe of their arms on thefe occafionsi.butv as pacific meafures had been refolved on, the canoes were alU>wed to return unmolelled. Mr. King was now ordered by Captain Clerke to proceed towards the Chore with the boats of both ihips, well manned and armed, with a view of bringing the iflandei's to a parley,. ;ind of obtaining, it pofllble, a conference with fome of the ei ees. If he ihould fucceed in this at* tempt, he was to demand the dead bodies, and par- ticularly that of Captain Cook : to threaten them, in cafe of a refufalj with our refentment ; but by Tfto means to fire, unlefs attacked ; and not to go alhore on any account whatever. Thefe inilruc- tions were delivered to Mr. King before the whole party, in the moft pofitive manner ; in confequence uf which, he and his detachment left the fhips about four o'clock in the afternoon ; and as they approached the fliore, they perceived every indi- cation ot a hofiile reception. The natives were all in motion, the womcii.and children retiring; the men arming thenifelves with long fpears and dag- gers, and putting on their war mats. It alfo ap^ pcarcd, that fintethe morning they had throw© up ,bf eaO-wnrks of (lone along the beach, where Cap- tain Cook had landed ; in expe^ation, perhaps, of 4in attack at that place. \Vhen our party were ^ithin iHrach, the iflanc'ers bc^an to throw Uones at i.. a ... , . . them Ta THE Pacific Qcean»&c* :p37 fhe^n with flings, but without doing any mifchief^ Mr. King concludeil from thefe appearances, thatK all attempts to brin^ them to a parley would be in- eficftual, unlefs he gave thsm fome ground for mutual confidence : he therefore ordered the anne4 boats to ftop, and advanced alone in the (inall boat^ holding in his hand a white flag ; the meaning of which, from an univerfal fliout of joy from the natives, he had theiatisfa^ion to find was imme* diately underftood. The women inftantly returned horn the fide of the hill, whither they had retired ; the men threw ofi* their mats, and all feated them? felves together by the fea-fide, extending their arms, and inviting Mr. King to land. Notwithftanding fuch behaviour fettiied expref- five of a friendly difpofition, Mr. Kiiig could not avoid entertaining fufpicions of its fincerity. But when he faw Koah, with extraordinary boldnefs and aflurance, fwimming off towards the boat, with a white flag in his hand, he thought proper to re* turn this mark of confidence, and accordingly re<> ceived him into the boat, though' he was armed } a circumftance which did not contribute to !eilen Mr. King's fufpicions. He had indeed n^ har- boured an unfavourable opinion of Koah. 1 h> pi icfts had alwaysreprefented him as a perfon of a malicious temper, and no friend to us ; and the repeated de- letions of his fraud and treachery, had convinced us of the truth of their afl'ertions. Befides the melancholy tranfadions of the morning, in which he was feen performing a principal part, infpired Mr. King with the utmoft horror at finding him- felf fo near him ; and as he approached him with feigned tears, and embraced him, Mr. King was fo diftruftful of his intentions, that he took hold of the point of the pahooa, which the chief held in his hand, and turned it from him. He informed the iflander that he had come to demand the body of Captain Cook, and to declare var 3g9Wft the inu . 1 1 T 2 tiVcs» 1^88 Code's THIHD AND LAST VoYAOE lives, unlefs it was reftored without delay. Koah aflured bim that this ihould ht done a» foon as pof* fible, and that he would go himfclf for that pur** pofe ; and after requeuing a piece of iron of Mr, King, with marks of great aflurance, he leaped into the water, and fwam aihore, calling out to hi$ countrymen, that we were all friends again. Our people waited with great anxiety near an hour for his return. During this interval, the other boats had approached fo near the ihore, that the men who were in them entered into converfation with a party of the iflanders, at a httle diftance; by whom they were informed, that the captain's body had been cut to pieces, and carried up the country ; but of this circumfiance Mr. King was not apprized tiU his return to the (hips. He therefore now began to exprefs fome degree of impatience at Koah's delay ; upon which the chiefs prefied him exceedingly to land, alTuring him, that if he would go in perfon to Terreeoboo, the body would be undoubtedly re- ilored to him. When thry found they could not prevail on Mr. King to go afhore, they emleavoured, tin pretence of converfing with him with greater cafe, to decoy his boat among fame rocks,- where they might have had it in their power to feparate him from the other boats. It was eafy to fee through thefe artifices, and he was therefore very d«firou8 of breaking off all communication with them$ when a chief approached, who had particuf larly attached himfelf to Captain Gierke, and che officers of theDifcovery,on board which iliip Jie had failed, when we lafl quitted the bay, intending to take his paflage to the ifland of Mowee. He faid he came from Terreeoboo, to acquaint our people that the body was carried up the country, but that |t Ihould be brought back the following morning. There appv^tared much fincerity in, his mai.ner ; and ^ng afKcd, if he uttered a falihood, he hooked i<>C?ther his two Ibre-^ngers, which is here under^- * ^ (tpo4 To THE Pacific Ocean, ^, 19S9 ilood as the iiga of veracity, in die uie of wbicli thefe iflandccs are very icnipulous. Being npw atalofs how to proceed, Mr. King fent Mr. Vanco* ver to inform Captain Gierke of all that had pitied, i that it was his opoion, the natives did not ii\t^4 to keep their word with us i and,, far from being grieved at what had happened, were on the con* trary infpired with great con^denge oq account Oif their late fuccei^, and fought only to gain time, tiU they could plan fome fcheme for getting our peoj:^ into their power. Mr. Vancover came back with orders for Mr. King to return on board, after giyiog the iilanders to underftand, that if the body waf not reftored the next morning, the town ihomd ^ deftroyed. No fooner did they perceive our ps^'ty retiring, than they endeavoured to provoke tfien^ by the moft contemptuous and iofulting geftQres. Several of our people faid, they could diftinguiik fome of the natives parading about .in the cloaths which had belonged to our unhappy countrypien, and among them, an eree brandifhing Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding the fcabbard. In confequence of Mr. King's report to Captain Gierke, of what he fuppofed to be the prefect tem- per and d'fpofition of the inhabitants, the moil effe^ual methods were taken to guard againft any attack they might make during the night. The boats were moored with top-chains ; additional feni> tinels were ftationed in each of our (hips; and guard-boats were directed to row round them, in order to prevent the iQanders from cutting the ca- bles. During the night, we faw a vaft number of Hghts on the hills, which induced fome of us to imagine, that they were removing their eSecb far- ther up into the country^ in confequence of our menaces. But. it feems more probable, that they were kindled at the facrifices that were perfonning on account of the war, in which they fuppofed themfelves liJ^ely to be engaged -, and^ perhaps thf bodies tppo Cook's thikd and LAtr Voyagi bodies of our flain countryinen were at that time burning. We afterwards obferved fires of the fame kind, as we pafled the ifland of Morotoi ; and which, accordmg to the information we received from fome of the natives then on board, were made on account of awar they had declared againftaneigh<» bouring ifland. This agrees with what we learned among the Friendly and Society Ifles, that, previ- bt^s to any hoftile expedition, Uie chiefs always en- deavoured to animate the couraee of the people, by feaSts and rgoicings in the night. We pafled the Di^ht without any difturbance, except from the bowlings and lamentations which were heard on ftorc. y ' On Monday the f 5th, early in the morning, Koah came along-ude the Refolution, with a fmall pig and fome doth, which he defired permiilion to pre- fent to Mr. King. We have already mentioned, that this officer was fuppofed. by the iflanders to be the fon of Captain Cook ; and as the latter had al- ways fuffered them to believe it, Mr. King was pro- bably confidered as the chief after his death. As foon as he came on deek^ he interrogated Koah with regard to the body ; and, on his returning cvafive anfwers, refufed to accept his prefents ; and was on the point of difmiillng iiim with expreflions of anger and refentment, had liot Captain Clerke, with a view of keeping up the appearance of friend<> ihip, judged it more proper that he fliould be treated with the cuftomary refpc£t. This artful prielt came frequently to us in the courfe of the morning, with fome trifling prefent or other; and as we always obferved him eyeing every part of the fliip with a great degree of attention, we took care he fliould fee we were well prepared for our defence. He was extremely urgent both with Captain Clerke and Mr. King to go on flifore, imputing the deten- tion of the bodies to the other chiefs, and afluring thoie gentlemen, that every thing might be ad^ julled IGI It time le fame i ; and eceived 'c made ineigh'* learned , prcvi- ^ays en- oplc, by kffed the rom the card oH ig, Koah imall pig a to pre- jntioned, lers to be ir had al- was pro- Xh, As :ed Koah returning jnts ; and ipreffions Gierke* f friend* lould be s artful of the ker ; and t of the lok care [defence. Clcrke deten- affuring be ad^ jufted To YHs Pacific OciAlty&c. rypi jutted to their fatisfiadion, by a peribnal interview with Uie ]dng. However, they did not think it prudent to comply with Koah's requeft $ and indeed z fact came afterwards to their knowledge, which proved his want of veracity. For, they were m* formed, that immediately atter the a^ion in which Captain Cook had loft his life, Terreeoboo had re> tired to a cave in the fteep part of the mountain that hangs over the bay, which was acceflible ovlf by means of ropes, and where he continued for fe» veral days, having his provifions let down to hivi by cords. After the departure of Koah from the jQiips, we obferved that his countrymen who had aflembled by day^break, in vail crowds on the Ibore,' flocked aipund him with great eagernefs OM his landing, as if they wilhed to learn the intelli- gence he had gained, and what fteps were to b« taken in confequence of it. It is highly probably that they expeded we fhould attempt to put our threats in execution ; and they appeared fully de- termined to (land their ground. During the whole morning, we heard conclis blowing in various parts of the coaft ; large parties were perceived marching over the hills ; and, upon the whole, appearances were fo alarming, that we carried out a dream an- chor j for the purpofe of hauling the Chip abreaft of the town, in cafe of an attack ; and boats were (lationed off the northern point of the bay, in order to prevent a furprize from the natives in that quarr ter. Their warlike pofture at prefent, and the breach of their engagement to reftore the bodies of the flain, occ^Iioned frefh debates among us con* cerning the meafures which ihould now be purfued. It was at length determined, that nothing ihould be permitted to interfere with the repair of the Refo- Iution*s mad, and the preparations for our depar- ture ; but that we ihould neverthelefs continue our negociations for the refloration of the bodies of our couptrymen. The greater part of this day was em* ployed t^i Code's THIRD AM0 LAST VOTAGB |ilov«xl^fii gettitig the fbre-maft into a proper 'fituar tionoa deck, that the carpenters might work japoB It^ and a)fo in making the requjifite alterations in diexM>mmiffioiM'of the officers. The chief com- mand of the expedition having devolved on Cap- tain Gierke, he removed on board the Re(bIuCion» pit)inoted Lieutenant Gore to the rank of captain of lih«' 'Difcovety, appointed Meflrs. King and WU« Hamfon firi): and fecond lieutenants of the Refokitioa , and nominated Mr. Harvey, a midiiipman, who hod accompanied Captain Cook during his twp laft WfWges, to fill the vacant lieutenancy. During the whole day, we fuftained no inteitvption from tht iflanders: and in the evening, the launch was inobred with a tqp-chain, and guard-boats flationed rmilid each of the ihips as before. About eight t)'ck)tk, it being exceedingly -dark, we heard a ca- Aoepadilling towards the mip ; and it was no fooner perceived, than both the fentinelson ^eck fired into it. ^There were two of the natives in this canoe, who immediately roared out *• Tinnee," (which was their method of pronouncing ^i^ . King's nanie), jand iaid they were friends, and had fomething. with them which belonged to Captain Cook. Wheh they came on board, they threw themfelves at the feet of our officers, and feemed to be extremely terrified. It fortunately, happened that neither of them was hurt, notwithftanding the >balls of both pieces had gone through the canoe. One qi thefe was the perfon who has been already mentlioned under the appellation of the taboo man, who cOnflantly at- tended Captain Cook with the particular ceremonies we have before Jefcribed ; and who, though a man of diftin^tion in the 'ifland, could fcarcely be pre- vented from performing for him the moft humilir ating offices of a menial fervant. After bewailing, with many tears, the lofs of the Orono, he in- formed us jLhat he. had brought a part of his body. He then gave us a fmall bundle which he brought under fd TiiE pACiiit Ocean, &c. 1993 \i!^dcr his arm ; artd it is impoflible to defcribe the horror with which we wete feized, upon finding in it a i>iecie of hum Ik 2 '"T o THE Pacific Ocean, &c. ::oo j th<» water-fide, feated themfelves by a white flag^ and began beating their drums, while thofe who had followed them, advanced, one by one, and depo- iitcd the prefents they had brought with them ; after which they retired in the fame order. Soon afterwards Eappo appeared in his long feathered cloak, bearing fomeching with s;reat folemnity in his hands ; and having ftationed himfelf on a rock^ he made iigns that a boat ihould be fent him. Cap* tain Gierke, fuppofing that the chief had brought the bones of our late commodere ^which, indeed, proved to be the cafe), went himfelf in the pinnacd to receive th^m, and ordered Mr. King to attend him in the cutter. When they arrived at the beach, Eappoo, entering the pinnace, delivered the bones to Captain Gierke, wrapped up in a great quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with afpotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterwards at- tended our gentlemen to the Refolution, but could not be prevailed on to accompany them on board ^ being, perhaps, from a fenfe of decency, unwilling to bit prefent at the opening of the parcel. In this we found both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known to us from a fear on one of them, thit divided the fore-finger from the thumb, the whole length of the metacarpal bone ; the fkull, but withthe fcalp feparated from it, and the bones of the face wanting ; the fcalp, with the ears ad- hering to it, ai)d the hair upon it cut fhort ; the bones of both the arms, with the Ikin of the fore- arms hanging to them ; the bones of the thighs and legs joined together, but without the feet, The ligaments of the joints were obferved to be entire t and the whole mewed fufficient marks of having been in the fire, excep> the hands, which had the fiefh remaining upon them, and were cut in feveral places^ and crammed with fait, mod probably with t view of preferving them. The fkull was free from any fracture, but the f^p^lp had a cut in the 11^2 back 0Mmm^,. 9004 Cook's third and last Voyage back part of it. The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, had been feized, u Eappo informed us, by different erees ; and he alfo told us, that Terr reeoboo ivas ufing every means to recover theoi* The next morning, being the ^ i (I of February, Eappo, and the king's Ton, came on board, and brought with them not only the remaining booes pf Captain Cook, but likewife the barrels of hi^ gun, his ihoes, and iome other trifles which hac( belonged to him. Eappo. aflured us, that Terreeo- boo, Maiha^maiha, and himfelf were extremely de» iirous of peace ; that they had given us the mo(i convincing proofs of it ; and that they had beea prevented from giving it fboner by the other chiefs^ many of whom were flill difafieded to us. He lamented, with the moft lively forrow, the deatl^ of fix chiefs, who had been killed by our people ; fome of whom, he faid, were among our be(( friends. He informed us, that the cutter had beei^ taken away by Pareea*s people, probably in revenge for the blow that he had received ; and that it had been broken up the following day. The arms o£ the marines, which we had alfo demanded, had been carried o^, he faid, by the populace and were irrecoverable. Nothing now remained, but to perform the laft folemn offices to our excellent commander. Eappo was difmifTed with orders to taboo all the bay ; and, in the afternoon his remains having been depofited in a coffin, the funeral fervice was read over them, and they were committed to the deep with the ufual military honours. Our feelings, on this mournful occafion, are more eafy to be conceived than ex- prefied. CHAP, To THE Pacific Ope^^n, &c. Sfopj^ C H A ?, XVI. '^^ ji< ON the 22nd of February, 1779, 4uring the morning, not a canoe came near the bay, the taboo, which Eappo, at our requed, had laid on it the preceding day, having not yet been taken offl At length that chief came on board \ when yi^ al* fured hin? tha^ »ye were now perfeiftly fatis^et} j ^ncl ^hat, as th<* " ? wa§ bijried, all rempmbraiipe pf pe late unh ^ ^ anfadions was buried with him. We afterwards ret^aefted him to take oiF the taboo, ;^nd to make it knpwn, that the iflanders rnigh^ pring prdvifions to us as ufual. The (hips were jrpon furrounded with canoes, and many of the erees pame on board, e^zpreiling their grief at what had happened, and their fatisfacUon at our reconcilia- tion. Several of our friends, wha did not favour us with a yiilt, fent prefents of large hogs, and pther praviiions. Among the reil, the old treache- rous Kbah came off to us, but we refufed hifi^ ad« niittance. We were now preparing to put to fea^ and Captain Gierke imagining, that, if the intelli^* gence pf our proceedings ihould reach the iflands to {eeward before us, k might have a bad effect, gave prders, that the fhips ihould be unmoored. About fight in the evening, we difmifled all the natives ; and Eappo, and the friendly Kaireekeea, took their leave of us in a very affectionate manner. We im» mediately weighed anchor, and fiood out of Kara* kakooa bay. The iflanders were aflembled in great numbers on the fhore 'y and, as we pafTed along^ received our laft farewels, with every mark of good- will and affection. , About ten o'clock, P. M. having cleared the land, we flood to the northward, with a view of fearching for a harbour, which the na^ tives had often mentioned, on the fouth-eaft fide of Mowee. We foiind ourfelves, the next roorn- lag, driven to leeward^ by a fwell from the N. E. and ■^ %6o6 Cook's third and last Voyage and a frcfli gale, from the fame, quarter, drove us ftill farther to the weft ward. At midnight we tacked and Hood four hours to the S. to keep clear of the land $ and, at day-break, on the 24th, we were Handing towards a fmall barren ifland, named Tar hporowa, about feven miles 8. W. of Mo wee. Havr ing^ now no profpecl of making a clofer examina- tion of th6 S. E. parts of Mo wee, we bore away, and kept along the S, E. fide of Tahoorowa. Steer- ing dole found its weftern extremity, in order to fetch the W, fide of Mowee, we fuddenly flioalcci our water, and faw the fea breaking on fome rocks almoft right a-head, We then kept awav about a league and a half, and again Peered to tne north- ward \ when we ftood for a pafiage between Mowee, and an ifland named Ranai. In thjs afternoon, the weather Was calm, with light ^irs from the W. We flood to the N. N. W, but obferving a flioal about fanfet, and the weather being unfettied, we flood towards the S. We had paflied the S. W. fide of this ifland, without being able to ^pproacl the fliore. It forms the fame diflant vievi^ as the N. E. is feen when we returned from the N. in Novem- ber,' 1778 ; the hilly parts, connefled by alow flat ifthmus, having, at the firfl; view, the appearance of two feparate iflands. This deceptive appearance continued, till we were within about ten leagues of the coafl, which bending a great way inward, iibrmed a capacious bay. The: wefternmpft point, pfl* which the flioal runs that we have juft now men- tioned, is rendered remarkable by a fonall hillock ; S. of which is a fine fandy bay ; and, on the fliore» are feveral huts, with plenty of cocoa-trees about theixi., Ih the tourfe of the day, feveral of the na« tiv^s Vifited us, and brought provifions with them. We prefently difcovered, that they had heard of OUT unfortun ate difafter at Owhyhee. They were extfSnely anxious to be infqnned of the particulars^ from'a woman" who hid hid iierfelf in the Refolo- ^*'* 3 tion. ^ To THE Pacific OcE A K, &c* soa? tion, in order to obtajin a paiTage to Atooi; making particular enquiries about Pareea, and ibme other chiefs i and. feeding much ?gitat^4 at the de^tfi of Kaneena, and ius brother. ]Qfut, in whatever .{ight this buiipefs mi$l>t have been reprefei^ted bv the wpinan* it produoe^ii ,no l)ad e^e^ in their behavi-. pur^ whiffai was civil and obliging to anextremC/. .;; '.,, 0|i Thurfday^ the 25^h, in.t^ morping, ,t\^e ^ind being at £ we peered alppg.tl^e S. fide pf Rj^^ n,9|^ till aunofi npon, ;when w? had .|>a^ng .lyinds iwdoaim^ tilj,, thp evening ; afiter.>yjiff:h, weh^^si light iaftj^t\j^j^skYy to, the S..E,; , Xh« Wind was agaJuQL^ ysu^iable y4^^ the 9ight ;, but j early in the morning of the 26th, it fettled ^tE. blowing fo freiQi, a^ to oblige, lis to doublq-reef the top-fails. Atfevei^, we opened ^ im^ll bay, 4^^^¥?^ about two leagues, having a fine f^ndy beach j^bu]^ not perceiving /any appevance^^cjf.firelji ^atfr,,w€i endeavoured to fi;et to the windward pfWo^oo^ an ifland which had been feei^^ in January ,,j 7^9. We faw the land about two in t^e arternoon; ^e^<^ ing W. byN. at the diflance of about eight leagues* We tack^, as foon as it was da;k, and again, borc^ away at day-light on the 27th. Between. tea aqd eleven, we were about |l league off* the ibore, i^na near the middle of tlie K. £. fide of the iuand. ! !^ The coail to the northward, confifts of detache^t hills, afcending perpendicplarly.iirom the fearf thfl[ fides being covered with wood, apd;they allies, be<^ tween them, appearing to be fertile,' and well culti-' yated. An extenfive bay was obfervable to the fouthward, bounded, to the ^* £. by a low pohit of land, covered with cocoa-nut trees ; off which, ^n infulated rock appeared, at the diilance of a mile ^om the fhore. The wind continuing to blow freih^ we were unwilling to entangle ourfeTves with a lee? " . ihorci vnii ien9 CooK^s rniiLt} itto last Voyagk flioris. Inftead of attempting, therefore, to exaitiirttf the bay, we hauled up,, and fteered in the dired<* i\on or the coaft. At nooti, we were ibout twd Ira^es from the iiland, and a-breaft of the N. pdfnt <).f It: It is \o\v and Aatj having a reef firetchtn^ dfF' alraoft a milie and k ha}f. Between'thc N. poin^ and i^heatf-Iahd ta the S. W. the laftd bends tnwaird; kn^ feemffed to jH^rtife ii good rbad. We therc^rc flee^ied alt^ng'the fflore, at ilout a itiiW difta^ee. i^f''<^(^, wd>l^ei*eiiiduced,.by the %lrt'of kfi«A iii^i to anchbr in thfrteitt ftthoitis' ^itet. Wth^ af^rioon, Mf.lQng attended ^he t^o cMtams 6rt i^)re, wAere fe^ of the natl^^eaf Were to be feen, and tii^ p»idc?p4'Hy wbrten. Th^ men, v^c wtttitk^ IWrfiiedv Wcre^goiletQ M<3^otIo5, to figjit! Tahyterrcti WW^tliejt- ^hftifi Perreeorance, reBiiMfted behitttf, Mdf^woiild^x^tainljr attprtd us, ^ 'Ibott !^s' he t^aS iiifbrnaed' of '6tor arrfval. ' To oui gj-eat difappdiht* Awii^, the Water had i bi^fckifli;tirftc, for abolit t#di teidi-ed^yi^-ds tip the river ; beyond which; hbw- efvfers^ it 'was^-'pert^^^jr frcfti arid was a delightful ftrcBtm. 'Patther iip, we came to the donflux of twvjvfinail rmxlets; braiMfhiitg off to the right artd hMiiB r ftcep roitelritic moxintain. iht banks of theftiVcr, and all that ^efaSvof Woahbo, afetn Bttc' ciiltivatfeti. ahti', full of villages ; the face of Aftf eouri^rj-'feclhg ailb remarkably beautiful and ^iiflhirtfttoe. " It would haVe been a laborious bufi- nef§ko liave Vatered at this [^latb, Mr. King ^as fertfbre cfi^atdrfeid tCt fearch' about the coaft to fccWardj liutj-Tyeftij^ unable td lai^, on account of a i*eef (rf coi-al; ^Vhich extended along thefliore. Captain Clerfce rdftJFvcd to proceed immediately to Atooi. In the ihorning, about eight, we weighed and flood to the north ; and;; on Sunday, the 28th, at day-lightv we bore away for that iflatid, and were in, fight of it by 'noon; We were off its eaftem cx- t^y^rty, whith isr a green flat point, about fun-ftt; Ai it was dark> we did not venture to run for the -- - road * ■ To thM Pacific do ban, fee. 2069 road on the S. W. fide, but fpent the night in plying on and off, and anchored, at nine the next morn- ing, being' Monday the ift of March, in 25 fa- thoms water. In running down, from the S. £. point of the ifland, we faw, in ihany places^ the appearance of (hoal water, at fome diitance front the land. Being anchored in our old ftation, feve-^ ral canoes came to vifit us ; but it was very obferva*' ble, that there was not that appearance of cordia- lity in their manner, and complacency in theit countenances, as when we faw them before. They had no fooner got on board, but one of them in** formed us, that we had communicated a diforde^ Co the women, which had killed many perfons o£ both fexes. He, at that time, was afflided witti the venereal difeafe, and minutely defcribed the various fymptoms which had attended it. As na appearance of that diror4er had been obferved amongft them, on our firft arrival, we were, it is to be feared, the authors of this irreparable miC^ chief. What we had principally in view, at this place, was to water the fhips with as much expedi- tion as poilible ; and Mr. King was fent on ihore iii the afternoon, with the launch and pinnace, ladeii with calks. He was accompanied by the gunner o£. the Refolution, who was inftrufted to trade for fome provifions ; and they were attended by a guard of five marines. Multitudes of people were coUeded upon the beach; by whom, at firft, we were kindly received; but, after we had landed the calks, they began to be exceedingly troublefome. Knowing from experience, how difficult a talk it was to re- prefs this difpofi.tion, without the interpofition of their chiefs, we were forry to be informed, that they were all at a diftant part of the illand. In- deed, we both felt and lamented the want of their afliftance ; for we could hardly form a circle, as our pradice ufually was, for the fafety and convenience ^ of the trading party. No fooner had we taken this ' No. 73. . liY ftep. f» ' I ' ■1i i.i :ii 20IO Cook's third and last Voyage Aep, and podcc! marines to keep off the populace, than a man took hold of the bayonet belonging to one of the foldiers mufquets, and endeavoured to wrench it forcibly from his hand. Mr. King immedi- ately advanced towards them, uhcn the native quitted his hold, and retired ; but immediately re- turned, having a fpear in one hand, and a dagger in the other*, and it was with diHiculty that his countrymen could reflrain him from engagins; with the foldicr. This affray was occafioned by the na- tive's havinc received, from the foldicr, a flight prick with his bayonet, to induce htm to keep without the line. At this time, our fituation re- quired great management and circumfpcd^ion •, Mr* King accordingly enjoined, that no one fliould prc- fume to fire, or proceed to any other aft of violence, >vithoiit pofitive commands. Having given thefc inftrudions, he was funimoncd to the affiftance of the watering party, where he found the natives in the fame miichicvous difpofition. They had pc- jemptorily demanded, for every caik of water, a large hatchet ; which not being complied with, they would not permit the failors to roll them to the boats. When Mr. King had joined them, one of the natives approached him, with great infolencc, and made the fame demand. Mr. King told him, that as a friend, he was welcome to a hatchet, but: he certainly would carry off the water, without paying for it ; and inftantly ordered the pinnace men to proceed ; at the fame time calling for three marines, from the trading party, to proteft them. This becoming fpirit fo far fucceeded, as to prevent any daring attempt to interrupt us ; but they ftill perfevered in the moft teafmg and infulting behavi- our. Some of them, under pretence of aflifling the failors, in rolling the caiks towards the fliore, gave them a different direction ; others ftole the hats from off" our people's heads, pulled them back- ward by the (kurts of their clothe s^ and tripped up their AG B ipulace, iging to mred to immedi- ; native atcly re- i dagger that iiis ing with ^ the ni- a flight to keep ation re» 3n i Mr. Duld prc- vriolence, en thefe lance of atives in had pc- ater, a th, they to the one of folencc, Id him, et, but ithout )innace )r three them, )revent ley ftiU )ehavi- Ifliding flicre, )le the back- )ed up their To THE Pacific Oceah, ice. toil their heels; the populace, during tM this time, fliouting and laughing, with * mixture of mockery and malice. They afterwards took an opportunity of ftealinsj the cooper's bucket, and forcibly took away his bag. Their principal aim, however, was to pofl'efs therafclves of the mufquets of the ma- rines, who were continually complaining of their attempts to force them from their hands. Though they, in general, preferved a kind of deference and refpeft for Mr. King, yet they obliged him to con- tribute Ins fhare towards their flock of plunder. One of them approached him, in a familiar manner,' and diverted his attention, whilft another feizcd his hanger, which he. held carelefsly in his hand, and. ran away with it. Such infolcnce was not to bo repelled by force. Prudence dictated that we muft patiently fubmit to it ; at the fame time, guarding againft its effects as well as we were able. Mr. King was, however, fomewhat alarmed, on being foon after infrrmed by the ferjeant of marines, that, turning fuddenly round, he faw a man behind him, armed with a dagger, in the pofition of ftriking. Though he might, perhaps, be miftaken, in this particular, our iituation was truly critical and alarming ; and the fmalleft error or miflake, on our part, might have been of fatal confequences. Our people being feparated into three fmall par- ties ; one filling cafks at thi lake ; another rolling them to the ftiore ; and a third purchafing provi- lions ; Mr. King had fome intentions of colledmg them together, in order to proteft the performance of one duty at a time. But, on due reflection, he thought it more advifeable t let them proceed as they had begun. If a real attack had been made, even our whole force could have made but a poor refiftance. He thought, on the other hand, that fuch a ftep might operate to our difadvantage, as being an evident token of our fears. Befides, in thc_prefent cafe, the crowd was kept divided, and II Y 2 many * t f v^ ill 90I2 Cook's thi&d amp last Voyage many of them wholly occupied in bartering. Per^ haps the principal caufe of their not attacking us was, their dread of the cfFeifts of our arms ; and, as we appeared to place fo much confidence in this advantage, as to oppofe only five marines to fuch a multitude of people, their ideas of our fuperionty rnuHk have been greatly exalted. It was our bufinefs to cherifh this opinion ; and* it muft ever be ac- knowledged, to the honour of the whole party, that it wis impoflible for any men to behave better, in order to ftrengthen thefe impreffions. What- ever could be confidered as a jeft, they received with patience and good-nature ; but, if they were interrupted by any ferious attempt, they oppofed it i;^ith refolute looks and menaces. At length, we to far fucceeded, as to get all our caiks to the fev /Ide, without any accident of confequence: but^ while our people were getting the calks into the launch, the inhabitants, thinking they Ihould ]iav(? no farther opportunity of plunclering, grew more daring and infolent. The feijeanl of marines luckily fuggefted to Mr. King, the advantage of fending off nis party firft into the boats, by which means the mulquets would be taken out of their reach -^ which, as above related, were the grand objects the illanders had in view : and, if they Ihould hap- pen to attack us, the marines could more effectually defend us, than if they were on fhore. Every thing was now in the boats, and only Mr. King, Mr. Aur derfon, the gunner, and a feaman of the boat's crew, remained on ihore. The pinnace laying be- yond the furf, which we were under a neceffity of fwimming through, Mr. King ordered the other two to make the beft of their way to it, and told them he would follow them. They both refufed to comply with this order, and it became a matter of conteft^ who ihould be the laft on ihore. Some haity ex- prcifion, it feems, Mr. King had jult before made UlTc of to the failor, which he confidered as a re- 5 To THE Pacific Ocean, frc. 2013 ILe^ion on his courage, and excited his refentment ; and the old gimner, as a point of honour was now ftarted, conceived it to be his duty to take a part in it. In this whimlical fituation, they, perhaps, might have long remained, had not the difpute been iet- tled by the ftones, which began to fly plentifully about us, and by the exclamations of the people from the boats, begging us to be expeditious, as the natives were armed with clubs and fpears, and purfuing us into the water. Mr. King arrived firft at the pinnace, and, perceiving Mr. Anderlbn was fo far behind, as not to be entirely out of danger^ he ordered one mufquet to be fired ; but, in the hurry of executing his orders, the marines fired two. The natives immediately ran aw-ay, leaving only one man and woman on the beach. The man attempted to rife feveral times, but was not able, having been wounded in the groin. The iflanders, in a mort time, returned ; and, furrounding th' ">« 'ofs of thi carried a fec^ond huftand who w."' ^'"'^"^ ''^ving at Atooi, but alfo at th° hel^d J '"" ""'^ =" ^Wef tJiere, he thoueht of ^ mK • ^ * Powerful faSion ^l-nity of driviKneone"'^"! t r'"^nt o^por- h.s fon-in-law might fuccee^ol."'^ iAand.That ^ he goats, which had increl^. '^^ government, probably have flocked theXffl i° •''*' =""» wouM weredeftroyed i„ th^conle/'".^ 'V ^^«' ^^4 we were vifited, on board the R^m'^'?'^' ""Mth. f«£ -er-m-law, the mofh„^ j "efoiution, by th^ young pri„c;,Xrd'e";v:ra1c^ ''«- °f tt & " 9?''"=- Among tile reft '""' P"^''^'"^ to nooks, wh ch were m,^"/ ^"' ""ere fome fifl, ?;;-Vather. XirbtS''""^^ ° "--'" ul defcent upon Woahoo Alr,f 'V" ""-"cceft. ;fged m thepe.formance off '''"^ ^^^^"^ en* "f account of the vi^oTv ff ^"""f '"^'^'«"s rites ' ' S^h and 6th, were emnin ^^ .^ ^^'^ obtained. S Ciulking The flu-OS ?'^'"'^^^ ^^^e e^'n^^^^^^^^ , cruife. \Ve nn '^^ ' ''"'^ Prep.»riD^ for on /'"^ '" om the natives, wJiS fupDHcT, '?>^ "^oleihtion I l^ri^ and vegctabJcs. ^'- '"^ "' Plentifully ,,i,^ ' ■ *• ■ ■ ' . . ^ , This mi :f MOi6 Coon's THIRD AND LAIT VOYAOE This day We were vifited by an Indian, whd brought a piece of iron on board, to be formed into the ftape of a pahooa. It ivas the bolt of fome large fhip timbers, but neither the officers nor men could diicover to what nation it belonged ; thoufi^ from the (hape of the bolt, and the palenefs of the iron, they were convinced it: was not Engliih. They enquired ftriftly of the native how he came poflefTed of it, when he informed them, that it was taken out of a large piece of timber, which had been driven upon their ifland, iince we were there in January, 1778. • On Sunday, the 7th, we received a vifit from Toneoneo, at which we were furprizcd. Hearing the dowager princefs was on board, he could hardly be prevailed on to enter the Ihip. When they met, they caft an angry lowering look at each other* He did not ftay long, and appeared much dejeded. We remarked, however, with fome degree of fur- prize, that the women proftrated themielves before him, both at his coming and going away ; and all the natives on board treated him with tiiat refped which is ufually paid to perfons of his rank. It was fomewhat remarkable, thi^jt a man, who was then in a flate of aftuai hoftility with Teavee's party, fhould venture alone within the power of his enemies. Indeed, the civil dilTenlions, which are frequent in all the fouth fea iflands, feem to be conduced without much acrimony j the depofed governor ftill enjoying the rank of an eree, and may put in piaclice Uich means as may arife, to regain the confequence which he has loft. On the 8th, at nine in the morning, we weighed, and proceeded towards Onceheow, and came to anchor in 20 fathoms water, at about three in the afternoon, nearly on the fpot where we anchored in 1778. With the other anchor, we moored ia 26 fathoms water. We had a ftrong gale from the ©iiftward in the night, and, the next mgrning^ the ihip To THE Pacific Ocean, &c« 2017 fhip had driven a whole cable's length, both an- chors being almoft brought a-head j in which fitu* ation we were obliged to continue/ this and thd two following days. .m^uhh.?. • : On Friday, the r 2th, the weather being mord moderate, the maAer was difpatched to the N. W« fide of the ifland, in fearch of a more commodious place for anchoring. In tht evening he returned^ havinff found a fine bay, with good anchorage, in 1 8 fathoms water. , The points of the bay were in the diredion of N. by E. and S. by W. A fmall village was fituated on the N. fide of the bay, to the eaftward of which were four wells of good water* Mr. Bligh went far enough to the N. to convince himfeif that Oreehoua, and Oneeheow, were two feparate iflands. Being now on the point of taking our final leave of the Sandwich lilands, it may be proper to give here a general and cerreft account of their fituation, and natural hiftory, as well as of the cuftoms and manners of the natives; which will fcrve as a kind of fupplement to a former defcrip* tion, the refult of our firil vifit to thefe iflands. This group is compofed of 1 1 iflands, extending in long, from 199 deg. 36 min. to 205 deg. 6 min. E. and in lat. from 18 deg. 54 min. to 22 deg. 15 min. N. Their names, according to the natives, are, i. Owhyhee, 2. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi ; which is alfo fometimes called Kowi. 3. Woahoo, or Oa* hoo. 4, Mowee. 5, Morotoi, or Morokoi. 6» Oreehoua, orReehoua. 7. Morotinnee, or Moro- kinnee. 8- Tahoora. 9. Kanai, or Oranai. 10. Oneeheow, or Neheeow. 11. Kahowrowee, op Tahoorowa. Thd'e are all inhabited, except Ta- hoora Aiiu [vdc otinnee. Be/itic* I lioff we have cnu-: mcr-.e.^, we heard of another ilLmd named Mod/)0'« papc^pa, or Komodoo-papapa, fituited to the W. S.' W. of Tab ;ora ^ it is low and findy, and is vifited' ibleiy for the purpofe of catciiing turtle and water- fo-wl. A« wc couid never Icara that the natives hi J * Noi 7 J. 'A,' 1 1 'A knowledge I m m- i^oxB Cook's third and last Voy ace knowledge of a6y other iflands, it is mo(^ probable that no others exift in their neighbourhood. Capr tain Cook had diftinguifhed this clufter of iflands by the name of the Sandwich Iflands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, then firft Lord of the Ad- niiralty, under whofe adoiiniftrationh^had enriched geography with^fo many valuable difcoveries; a tribute jui^ly due to that nobleman, for the en- couragement and fupport which thefe voyages de- lved from his power, and for the zealous eager* nefs with which ne feconded the views of our illuf- trious navigator. . The moil eafterly of thefe iflands, called Owhy- 2)eej and by far the largeft of them all, is of a tri- angular figure, and nearly equilateral. The angu- lar points conftitute the northern, fouthern^ and eaftern extremities. The Izt;. of the northern ex- treme is 20 deg. 17 min. N. and its long. 204 deg. 2 min. £. the fouthern end (lands in the long. 204 deg. 1 5 min. £. and in the lat. of 1 8 deg. 54 min* N. and the eailern extremity is in the lat. of 19 deg. ^4 min. N. and in the long, of 205 deg. 6 min. £, The circumference of the whole ifland is about 255 geographical miles, or 293 Englifli ones. Its breadth is 24 leagues ; and its greatell length, which lies nearly in a N. and S. diredion, is 28 leagued and a half. It is divided into fix extenfive diftricts, namely, Akona and Koaarra, which are on the W. fide ; Kaoo and Opoona, on the S. £. and Aheedoo and Amakooa, on the N. £. A mountain, named Mouna Kaah, (or the mountain Kaah) which rifes in three peaks, coatinual)^ covered with fnow, and may be difcerned at the diftance of 40 leagues, fe- parates the di{lri6l of Amakboa from that of Ahee- doo. The coaft, to the northward of this moun- tain, h compofed of high and abrupt cliffs, down which fall many beautiful cafcades of water. We once flattered ourfelves with the hopes of finding a harbour round a bluff head, on a part of this coaft, ia the lat. of zo deg. iq xain. N. ifid the long, of 204 deg. To THE Pacific Ockan, &c. aoi^ 204 deg. 26 mm. £. but after we had doubled the point, and were ftanding clofe in, we found that it was connected, by a low valley, with another ele- vated head to the northweftward. The country fifes inland with a gradual afcent, and is interfered by narrow deep glens, or rather chafms : it feemed to be well cultivated, and to have many village^ fcattered about it. The fnowy mountain above- mentioned is very deep, and its loweft part abounds with wood. The coatt of Aheedoo is of a moderate elevation ; and the interior parts have the appear? ance of being^more even than the country towards the N. W. We cruifed off thefe two diftrids fM ( n'jar a month ; and whenever ourdiftance from the fliore would permit, were furrounded by canoes laden with refrefliments of every kihd. On thi^ fide of the ifland, we often met with a very heavy fea, and a great fwell; and, as there was much foul ground off the fliore, we feldom made a neare^ : approach to the land than two or three leagues. Towards the N. E. of Apoona, the coaft, which conftitutcs the eaftefn extreme of the ifland, is ra- ther low and flat. lA the inland parts the acclivity is very gradual -, and the country abounc^.s with breiad-fruit, and cocoa-nut tr^s. This appeared to us to be the fined part of the whole ifland ; and we were afterwards informed, that the king occafi- pnally refided here. The hills, at the fouth-weftern extremity, rife with fome abruptnefs from the fea- fide, leaving only a nariow border of low land to- wards the beach. The fides of thefe hills were co- vered with verdure; but the adjacent country feemed thinly inhabited. When our fliips doubled the E. point of the ifland, we had fight of another fnowy mountain, called by the natives, Mouna Roa (or the extenfive mountain) which, during the whole time we were failing along the fouth-eafteri^ fide, continued to be a very confpicuous objeft. It was flat at the fummit, which was perpetually * 1 1 Z 2 involved fuJ * 9d2d Cqok'$ THIRD AN D K^fiT Voyage involved ia foow ; jind we pnoe pbferved ita fides ^^Ifo {lightly covered with it for a confiderable way down. According to the tropical line of fnow, as determined by Monfieur Condamine, frojn obferva^' tions made on the Cordilleras in America, the height f)f this' mountain muft be, at leaft, j 6,020 feet. . It therefore exceeds the height of the Pico dc Teyde, or Peak of TenerifTe, by 3680 feet, according to the computation of the Chevalier de Borda, or 724, according to that of Dr. Heberden. The peaks of Mouna Kaah feemed to be of the height of about half a mile : and, as they are wholly covered with ihow, the altitude of their fummits muft at leaft be 1 8j40o feet. The diftri^l: of Kaoo exhibits a moft horrid and difmal profpeft ; the whole country having, to ap» pearance, undergone an entire change from the Confequences of feme dreadful convulfiort. The ground is, in all parts, covered with cinders •, and, m many places, interfecled with blackifli (lieaks, which feem to mark the progrefs of a lava th,)t has flowed, not many centuries ago, from Mouna Roa to the fiiore. The fouth promontory appears like the mere dregs of a volcano. The head-land con- i^fts of broken and craggy rocks, terminj^ting in 9cute points, and irregularly piled on each other. Notwithllanding the dreary afpecl of this part of ^he Hand, it contains many villages, and is far fn'^ c populous t;han the verdant mountains of A^ oona. Nor is it difiicult to account for this cir- cumftancc. Thefe iflanders not being poffeffed of any cattle, have no.occafion forpallurage; and are therefore inclined to prefer fuch ground as is either more conveniently fituated for fifliing, or beft adapted to the cultivation of plantains and yams. J^ow amidft thefe ruins, there are many fpots of fich foil, which are with great care laid out in pjan- tations ; and the neighbouring fe^ al^unds.with ex- cellent BJh. of various kinds. Off thif par^of the , coalt. Tp T».E Pacific Oce;!an> &c. 2021 • coaft, 2it lefs than a cable's length from the (hor^, we did not ftrikc ground with 160 fathoms of Unc, except in a fmall bight to the £. of the fouthern point, where we found from 50 to 58 fathoms of water, over a fandy bottom. It may be proper t6 obferve* befqre we proqeed to give an account of thp weftern diftri(fls, that the whole coaft we have 4i^prAbedt from the northern to . the 'buthern ex- jMrCme, afifords not a (ingle harbour, a6t the leaft flielter for fhipping. The ibuth-weftern parts of Akona are in a condition Hmilar to> that of thel ad«- j(Mning diilrid of Kaoo; but the countiy further towards the N.- has been carefully cultivated, and is exceedingly populous. In this divtfion p£ the ifland lies Karakakooa Bay, of which we have al» ready given a defcription. Scarce aay thing is feeA alpr.^ the coaft, but the fragments of black fcorched rocks J behind which, the ground, for the fpace of abbut two miles and a half, rifes gradUaliy, and feems to have been once covered with loofe bunit Aones. Thefe have been cleared away by the ih>> habitants, frequently to the depth of three feet and upwards ; and the fertility of the foil has amply re-^ paid their labour. Here they cultivate in a rich afliy mould, the cloth-plant and fweet potatoes; GrQves of cocoa-nut- tregs are fcattered among th^ fields, which are enclofed with Hone fences. On the rifing ground beyond thefe, they plant bread- fruit-trees, which flourifli with furpriiing luxuri*^ ance. The difiriA of Koaarra extends from the moft wefterly point to the northern extreme of the ifland. The whole coaft between them forms a fpacious bay, which is called by the natives Toeyah^yah, and ii bounded to the northward by two confpicuous hills* Towards the bottom of this bay, there is foul, corally ground, that extends to the diftance of up* wards of a mile from the (hore^ without which there is good anchorage. The coimtry, as far as the ey« c«uld difcern^ aj^eared to b^ miitful and populous I 8032 Cook's third asd last VoVagk ( ,. .4 po|;nilous ; but no frefh water was to be found. The foil feemed to be of the fame kind with that of the diftridt of Kaoo.i < Having thus defcribed the coafts of the iflahd of Owhyhee, and the adjacent country, we fhall noliy relate fome particulars refpeding the interior parts^ from the information we obtained from a party, who fet out on the 26th of January, on an exp^i- tion up the country, principally with an intentioil of reaching the fnowy mountains. Having '^previ- oufly procured two of the iflanders to ferve them as guides^ they quitted the village about four o'clock in. the afternoon. Their courfe was eafterly, in- cfining a little to ihe fouth. Within three or four miles from the bay, they found the country as al- ready defcribed ; but the hills afterwards rofe with a le& gradual afcent, which brought them to fome extenuve plantations, coniifting of the taro or eddy root,, and fweet potatoes, with plants of the cloth- tree^ Bodi the taro and the fweet potatoes are here Ranted at the diftance of four feet from each other. The potatoes are earthed upalmoft to the top of the ibdk« with a proper quantity of light mould. • The taro is left bare to the root, and the mould found St is put in the form of a bafon, for the purpofe of holding the rain-water ; this root requiring a cer- tain degree of moifture. At the Friendly and So- ciety lues, the taro was conftantly planted in low and moiil fituations, and generally in thofe places where there was the conveniency of a rivulet to flood it. This mode of culture was confidered as abfolutely neceffary ; but we how found that this root, with the precaution before-mentioned, fuc- ceeds equally well in a more dry iituation. It was, indeed, remarked by all of us, that the taro of the Sandwich Illands was the bed we had ever tafted; The walls, by which thefe plantations are feparated from each other, are compofed of the loofe burnt ftonesj which are met with incleariog the grpund| /^ > - and. s To THE Pacific OciAK,&c. 2023 and, bdng totally concealed by fugar-canes, that are planted clofe on each fide, form the moft beau- tiful fences that can be imagined. Our party ftop^ ped for the night at the fecond hut they oUerved ar^ong the plantations, where they fuppofed them- felves to be fix or feven miles diftant from our fhips/ The profped from this fpot was defcribed by theni as very delightful : they had a view of our veflels in the bay before them ; to the left they faw a conr tinned range of villages, interfperfed with groves of cocoa-nut-trees, fpreading along the fhore ; a* thick wood extending itfelf behind them ; and, to the right, a very confiderable extent of ground, laid out with great regularity in well-cultivated planta- tions, difplayed itfelf to their view. Near this fpot the natives ponted out to them, at a diftance from every other dwelling, the refidence of a hermit, who, theyfaid, had, in the former part of his life, been a great chief and, warrior, but had long ago retired from the fea-coaft of the iiland, and now never quitted the environs of his cottage. As they approached him, they proftrated themfelves, and afterwards prefented him with fome provifions. His behaviour was eafy, frank, and chearful. He teftified little aftonifhment at the fight of our people, and though prefied to accept of fome European cu- riofities, he thought proper to decline the offer, and foon retired to his cottage. Our party reprefented him as by far the moft aged perfon they had ever feen y judging him to be, at a moderate computa- tion, upwards of a hundred years of age. As they had fuppofed that the mountain was not more than ten or a dozen miles diftant from the bay, and con* fequently eiipefted to reach it with eafe early the following morning, they were now greatly fur- prized to find the dift<:nce fcarce perceivably dimi* niftied. This circumftance, \vith the uninhabited . ftatc of the country which they were on the point of entering^ rcRderipg it neccilary tp provide a fup- ^ ' ply IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) . ^O />/!^ A ^^ 4" 1.0 I.I 1^118 125 ■^ ^ 122 u liU ^ U£ 12.0 11.25 HI 1.4 Hiobgraphic Sciences Corporation '^*<^\^°'' ^.v* 23 \Hni MAIN STRF6T (716)a7a-4$03 '^ <^ iro24 Coo K'iV T H f It D A K D LAST Vo V A OE pty of provifiopB^ tUey cfifpatcbed one of djti^ cbo« 4u£kidrs hick U the it iUagie fdr that par pofe. VffuMt tkcv waked ibis rettoi* tbcy were joined by fevvrA dt »iio6*s fotJoli, whom that generous old mm; hidftat after them, h>ad6d with refrefliments, and £d1^' autbomtd^ as their rout lay through lii# grodAC^, to demand, and take away with them wbatotrer they mi^ht want. Our trayelleri were iiirprized on nodin^ tlie cold here foiintenfe. But, mtbr^ had ho thermometer with them, they conld only form their judgment of it from dieir feelings f whidi^ from the warm atmofphere they had quitted, mut.hafre been a very fallacious method of judg- ing* They found it, however, fo cold, that they coiU^d fcarce getany deep, and the iilarders coula not ^ep at all f both parties being difturbed, during the whole night, by continual coughing. As they, at this time, could not be at any very great height, their difiance firom the fea being no more than fix or feven miles, and part of the road on a v^ moderate afcent, this unconunon desree of cold siiuft be attributed to the eafterly imnd blowing frefii over the ihoWy mountains. Early the next morning, they proceeded on their journey, and fiUed their calibaflies at a well of excelleiit wa- ter, fituate about half a mile from their hut. Af- tfar they had pafled the plantations, they arrived at a thick wood, which they entered by a path that had been made for the convenience of the iflanders, who frequently repair thither for the purpofe of catching birds, as well as procuring the 's^M or horfe-plantain. Their progrefs now became ex- tremely flow, and was attended Vith great labour; for th^ ground was either fwampy, or covered with large ftones; the path narrow, and often inters rupced by trees lying acrofs it, which they were obliged to climb over, as the thicknefs of the un- dtrwood, on each fide, rendered it impra^cable to- pift round them«, They (av, in thefe woodsy pieces eld rava, [ients» and rough B* ^th them clkrt were «fc. But. they coom* ir ftcliuRS J lad quitted, )d of judg- , that they irders couW rbcd, during g. As they, great height, nore than fix i on a vw gree of cold E)d blowing irly the next journey, and jxccUent wa- fiir hut. Af- ^cy arrived at ly a path that the iflanders, it purpofc of ^ frhevildor becafrxe ««- grcatlabouf* covered with i often inter' iich they were fe of the un- ipraaicable to VOQdJ'^]?iecrt To THE Pacific Ocean, 8rc* 102 J of wbits cloth fixed on poles, at fmall diftances^ which they imagined were f and marks for the di- vifion of property, as they only ohferved them where the wild plantains grew. The trees were of the fame kind with tht ijince tree of New Holland i they were ftraight and lofty, and theit circum- ference was from two to four feet. Having ad- vanced nine or ten miles In the wood, they had the mortification of finding themfelves,fuddenly, within fight of the fea, and not very far from it ; the path having turned off imperceptibly to the S. and car^ tied them to the tight of the mountain, which it was their intention to reach. Their difappointment was Confiderably heightened bv the uncertainty un* der wMch they how were with refpedt to its true bearings, as they could not at prefent gain a view of it n'Om the top of the highefl trees. They, thereibre, thought proper to walk back fix or feven miles to an unoccupiod hut, where they had lefib two of their own people, and three of the natives, with the (hiall remnant of their provifions. Here they pafled the fecond night, during which the ai^ was 10 extremely Iharp, that^, by the morning, theic guides were all gone off, except one. Bring at this time in want of provifions, vhich laid them under a neceflfty of returning to fome of the cultivated parts of the nland, thev Idt the wood by the Ikme path by which they had entered it. When thev arrived at the phntations, they wens furrounded by the ilhnders, fitrm whom they pur^ chaftrd a frdh fupply of neceffaries; and prevait«l upon two of them Co accompany them as guides, in the room of thofe who had gone away. Having procured the befk information they could poffibly dbtain with regard to the diredion of their road, the paity, who Were how nine in number, marched for about half a dozbi miles alon^ the (kirts of the wood, and then e^tcted it agam by a path leading towards the £. They paffed, for the firft three 'No. 74« II A miJcs, ^02^ QoOK'S THIRD AND LAST VoYAGE tallies, through a foreft.of lofty fpice-trees, which ;grew on a rich ioam^ At. the back of thefe trees (hey met with an equal extent of low fhrubbytrctes, together with a coni(iderabIei quantity of thick un- derwood, upon a bottom of looUe burnt ftones. ^his led them to another foreft of fpice-trees, and the fame rich brownifh foil, which was again fuc- ceeded by a barren ridge of a (imilar kind with the iformer. Thefe ridges, as far as they could be feen, appeared to run parallel with the fea ihore, and to liave Mouna Roa for their centre. In j)affing through tlie woods they found many unfiniih'ed canoes, and huts in feveral places i but they faw lione of the inhabitants. After they had penetrated almoft three miles into the fecond wood, they ar- rived at two huts, where they flopped, being greatly £iitigued with the day's journey, in the courfeof which they had walked, according to their own computation, at leaf): twenty miles. Having found ho fprings from the time they quitted the planta- tions, they had greatly fuffeied from the .violence of their thirfl ; in confequence of which they were obliged, before the evening came on, to feparate into fmall parties, and go in queft of water. They, at lafl, met with fome that had been )eft by rain in the bottom of a half-finifhed canoe ; which, though of a reddifh colour, was by no means unwelcome to them. Throughout the night, the cold was more intenfe than before ; and though they had taken care to wrap themrelyes 6p in mats and clothes of the country, and to keep a large fire between \he two huts, they could get but vei^ little ileep, and were under the neceffity of walking about for the greateft part of the night. Their elevation was now, in all probability, pretty coniiderable, as the ground, over which their journey lay, had been generally on the afcent. On the. next morning, which was the 29th, they fet out early, with an in- tention of making their lafl and greatefl effort tq reach ToTK* Pacific Ocean, &c. 2027 reach the fnowy mountain ; but their fpirits were coniiderably depreflcd, ca finding that the mifera- ble pittance of water, which they had difcovered the preceding night, was expended. The path, which reached no farther than where canoes had "been built, being now terminated, they were obliged to make their way as well as they could ; frequently climbing up into the mod lofty trees, to explore the furrounding country. They arrived, about eleven o'clock, at a ridge of burnt (tones, from the top of which they had a profped of the Mouna Roa, which then appeared to be at the dif- tance of between twelve and fourteen miles fron^ them. They now entered into a confultation, whe- ther they fhould proceed any further, or reft con-' tented with the view before them of the fnowy mountain. Since the path had ceafed, their road had become highly fatiguing, and was growing ftill more fo, every ftep they advanced. The ground was almoft every where broken into deep fiflures, which, being flightly covered with mofs, made them ftum- ble almoft continually ; and the intervening fpace confifted of a furface of loofe burnt ftones, which broke under their feet. Into fome of thefe fiflures ^hey threw ftones, which feemed from the noife they made, to fall to a confiderable depth *, and the ground founded hollow a<; they walked upon it. Befides thefe circumftances, which difcouraged them from proceeding, they found their conductors fo averfe to going on, that they had reafon to think they would hot be prevailed on to remain out ano- ther night. They, therefore, at length came to a determination of returning to the (hips, after taking a iurvey.qf the country from the higheft trees they could find. From this elevation, they perceived themfeives furrounded with wood towards the (ea *, they were unable to difttnguifh, in the horizon, the iky from Hhe water; and betwixt them and the fiiowy mounuin, was a vallpy of ^bout eight miles 202$ Cook's thud and i«asi Voyage in breadth. They pafled this mght.at a hut m the fecond foreft ; and the foHowiDg day, before noon, they had pafled the fiiil wood, andfouodthemfdves nine or ten miles to the N. £. of the fhips, towards which they iparched thraygh the plantations. As they walked along, they did not oblerve a fpot of ground, that was furceptible of improveoient, left implanted; and, indeed, the country, from their account, could icarcely be cultivated to greater ad- vantage for the purpofes of the natives. They were iurprifed at feeing feveral fields of hay ; and, upon their enquiry, to what particular ufe it was appUed, t'hey were informed^ that it was intended to cover the grounds where the young taro grew, in order to preferve them from being fcorched by the rays of the fun. They obferved, among the plantations, a few huts icattered about, which afforded occafi- onal ihelter to the labourers : but they did not fee any villages at a greater diilance fmm the fea than four or five miles. Near one of them, which was fituated about four miles from the bay, they difco- vered a cave, forty fathoms ill. lengUi, three in breadth, apd of the fame height^ It was open at each end ', its fides were fluted, as if wrought with a chiflel ; and the furface was glazed over, perhaps by the adion of fire. Having thus related the prin- cipal circumftances that occurred in the ex^iedttion ' to the fnowy mountaio at ipwhyhe^ we iihaU ^ow proceed to defcribe the other iflands of this ^rpupe. That which is next in fize, and neareft m fitu? ^ ation to Owhyhee, is Mowee. It fiands at the diftance of eight leagues N. N. W. from Owhyhee, and is 140 geographical miles in circuit. It is di- vided by a low iilhmus into twociicular peninfulas, of which that to the eaftward is named Whamadooa, and is twice as large as that to the W. called Owhy- rookoo. The- mountains in both rife to a very great height, as we were able to fee them at the diftance of about 30 leagues. The iiorth(9cn ihoreis, * like To THB Pacific OcsAM, &c« 1029. like tbofc of the ifle of Owhybee, afford no foudd- iogs } and the qountry bears tbe fame afped of fer- tility and verdure. The E. point of Mowee is in the latitude of 20 deg. 50 min. N. and in the longi* tode of 204 ^^8* 4 min. ^ To the fouthward, be- tween Mpwee and the adjacent iflands, we found regular depths with 1 50 fathoms, ov^r a bottom of fand. From the wefiern point, which is rather low, runs a ihoal, extending towards the ifland of Kanai, to a coniiderable diftance ; and to the S. of this, is an extenfive bay, with a fandy beach, fhaded with cocoa^treefr It is not improbable that good an- chorage might be met with here, with llielter from the prevailing winds ; and that the beadi affords a commodious landi&ig-place. The country further back is -"^ery romantic in its appearance. The hills rife almoft perpendicularly, exhibiting a variety of peaked forms ; and their Iteep fides, as well as the deep chafms between them, are covered with trees, amotng which thofe of the bread- fruit principally abound. The fummits of thefe hills are pertedtly bare, and of a reddiih brown hue. The. natives informed us, that there was a harbour to the S. of the eaftern point, which they afferted was fupenor to that of Karakakooa; and we alfo heard that there was another harbourj named Keepookeepoo, on the north-weftern ilde. Ranai is about nine miles diftant from Mowee and Morotoi, and is iituate to the S. W. of the parage between th ife two ifles. The country, towards the S. is elevated and craggy ; but the other parts of (he ifland had a better appearance, and feemed to be weU inhabited. It abounds in roots, fuch as fweet potatoes, taro, and yams ; but produces very few, plantaip^, and bread-fruit trees. The S. point, of Ranai is in the latitude of 20 deg. 4d'min. N** and in the longitude of 203 deg. & min. £. Morotoi lies at the diftance of two leagues and a half to the W. N. W ^ of Mowee. Its fouth-weftera coait. ^bgO CoOK*8 THIRD AND LAST VOTACIS Coa{b, which was the only part of it we approached, is very low ; but the land behind tiki tc a conii- derable elevation ; and, at the diftance from which we had a viev^ of it, appeared to be defiitute of wood. Yams are its principal produce ; and it may probably contain freih water. The coaft, on the Ibuthern and weftern fides of the ifland, forms fe- veral bays, that promife a tolerable ihelter from the trade winds. The W. point of Morotoi is in the longitude of 202 deg. 46 mip* £• and in the lati- tude of 21 deg. 10 ihin. N. ,Tahoorowa is a fmall ifland fituated o£F the fouth- weilern part of Mowee, from which it is nine miles di(iant. It is deftitute of wood, and its foil feems to be fandy and unfertile. Its latitude is 20 deg. "eg. 27 min. £. Between it and Mowee fiands the Tittle ifland of 38 min. N. and its longitude 203 deg. 27 min. Morrotjnnep,- which has no inhabitants. Woahbo lies about feven leagues to the N. W. of Morotoi. As far as we were enabled to judge, from the appearance of the norti •weftetn and north- eaftem parts (for we had not an opportunity of fee- ing the fouthern fide) it is by far the fineft of all the Sandwich lilands. The veixlure of the hills, the variety of wood and lawn, and fertile well culti- vated valleys, which the whole face of the country prefented to view, could not be exceeded. Having already defcribed the bay in which we anchored, formed by the northern and weftern extremes, it remains for us to obferve, that) in the bight of the bay, to the fouthward of our anchoring-place, we met with foul rocky ground, about two miles nrom the flidre. If the ground tackling of a fhip fliould happen to be weak, and the wind blow with vio- lence from the N. to which quarter the road is en- tirely open, this circumftance might be attended with fome degree of danger : but, provided the cables were good, there Would be no great hiViitl^ as the ground from the anchoring place, which ia ' oppoflte roTAOS ipproicbed, ( tc a conli- from which deftitute of and it may oaft, on the d, forms fc- tcr from the toi is in the [ in the lati- >ff the fouth- is nine miles its foil feems de is 20 deg. , ay min. £• ittie ifland of ts. theN.W.of (td to judge, in and north- [tunity of fee- left of all the :hc hills, the ile well culti- the country d. Having jc anchored, extremes, it bight of the ig.place. we o miles from , ihip ihould jw with vio- [c roiid is en- be attended irovided the :reat hiwW^ ic, which ift oppofite I .1 ti ^ < \ \ \ ^ n ^1 To THK Pacific OctAN, &c. 2631 oppofite the valley through which the river runs, to the northern point, conufts of a fine fand.. The la- titude of our anchoring-pUce is 2 1 deg. 43 min. N. and the longitude 202 de^. 9 min. £. The diftri£t of Atooi is about 25 leagues to the N. W. of Woahoo. Towards the N. E. and N. W. the face of the country^is ragged and broken ; but, to the fouthward, it is more even; the hills rife from the fea-fide with a gentle acclivity, and, at a little diftance back, are covered with wood. Its produce is the fame with that of the other iflands of this clufter ; but its inhabitants greatly excel the people of all the neighbouring iflands in the manage- ment of their plantations. In the low grounds, contiguous to the bay wherein we anchored, thefe plantations were regularly divided by deep ditches ; the fences were formed with a neatnefs approaching to elegance, and the roads through them were finillied in fuch a manner, as would have reflected credit even on an European engineer. The longi- tude of Wymoa Bay, in thisifland, is 200 deg. 20 min. £. and its latitude 2 1 deg. 57 min. N. Oneeheow is five or fix leagues to the wedward of Atooi. Its eafliern coaft is high, and rifes with abruptnefs from the (ea ; but the other parts of the ifland confift of low ground, except a round bluff head on the fouth^eaftern point. It produces plenty of yams, and of the fweet root called tee. The ancnoring-p^ace at this ifland lies in the latitude of 2 1 de^, 50 uiin. N. and in the longitude of 1 99 deg. 45 mm. E. Oreehoua and Tahoora are two little iflands, fitu ate in the neighbourhood of Oneeheow. The for- mer is an elevated hummock, conneded with the northern extreme of Oneeheow, by a reef of coral rocks. Its latitude is 22 deg. z min. N. and its lon- gitude 199 deg. 52 min. E. The latter flands to the S; E. and is uninhabited: its longitude is 199 deg. 36 min.E. and its latitude a i deg. 43 min. N. The diioate of the Sandwich Ifles is, perhaps, \ rathwr 0032 Cock's third and last Voyage rather more temperate thui that of the Weft India Iflands, which are in the fame latitude; but the difference is very inconfiderable. The thermometer, on fhore near Karakakooa Bay, never rofe to a |;reater height than 88 deg. and that but one day : Its mean heifiiit, 2^ twelve o'clock, was 83 deg. Its mean height at noon, in Wymoa Bay, was 76 deg. and, when out at fea, 75 deg. In the idand bf Jamaica, the mean height of the thernometer, at twelve o'clock, is aboUt B6 deg. at fea, 80 deg. Whether thefe iflands are futned to the fame Vio- lent winds and hurricanes with the Weft Indies, \vt could not afcertain, as we were not here during anv of the tempeftuous months. However, as uo vef- tiges of their effeds were any where to be feen, §ind as the iflanders gave us no poMve teftimony of the ^6t, it is probable, that, m this particular, they refemble the Friendly and Society Ifles, which are, in a great degree, free from fuch tremenclotis^lft- tations. There was a greater quantity of rain, par- ticularly in the interior parts, during the four win* ter months that we continued among thefe iihnders, than commonly falls in the Weft Indies in the dry feafon. We generally obferved clouds coUefting round the fummits of the hills, and producing rain to leeward ; but after the wind has leparated them from the land, they difperfe, and are loft, and others fupply their place. This occurr^ daily at Owhyhee ; the mountainous parts being ufually enveloped in a cloud; ihov^ers fucceifively falling in the inland country ; with a clear iky, and fine weather, in the neighbourhood of the fliore. The winds were, for the moft part, from £. S. E. to N. £. In the harbour of Karakakooa we had every day and night a fea and land breeze. The currents fometimes fet to windward, and at other tittktiB to leeward, without the leaft regularity. They did not feem to be directed by the winds, nor by anv other caufe that we can affign : they ofteiiCet to wi^^4. 12 B weight 3034 Cook's THiitd Avb last VoVagi 'weight each. Befides this quantity, and the ex- traordinary wafte, which, amidft filch abandance, could not be entirely prevented, 60 more puncheons were faked for fea ftor^. The greater part d this fupply >^as drawn from the i&e of Owhyh^e alone ; pnd yet we did not perceive that it wsts at atl ex- haufted, or even th^t the plenty liad decftsifed. The birds of tliefe iflahds afe numerous, thtmgk the variety is not great. Some of thi^ ntajr vie with thofb of any country in point Of beauty. •There are four fpecies that feenii to betotfg tO the trochili, or honey-fiickers of Linn^us. O^e of them isfomewhat larjger ihah a bullfihch ; Its co- lour h a glofly black, and the thighs and rump- vent are of a deep yellow. The natives call it hoo- I100. Another is of i very bright fcarlet ; its '^ddngs are black, with a white edge, and its tail is blacK. It is named e'eeeve by the inhabitants. Th6 third is variegated with brown, yellow, aind red, and Teems to be either ^ young bird, or a Variety of the jprecedin^. The fourth is entirely gr^iin, ^ith a yellow tinge, and is called akaiearooit. There is alfo a fitiall bird of the fly-catcher kind ; a fpecies of thrtiih, with a greyiih breai^ ; and a rail', with Verv ihort wings, and nd till. Ravens^ are met witn here, but they are extremely fcaYce ;/ they are of a dark brown colour, inclining to Mack, and their note is different from that of the European t2L\hn. We found two fmall birds, that were very common, atid both of which were of out fi[enus. One of thefe was red, and was ufually obierved about the cocoa-trees, from whence it feemed to derive a confiderable part of its fubfiftence. The other ivaS of a gr6en colour. 'Boffc had long tonnes, which were ciliated, or fritted ^t the tip. A bird 'vfiih a yellow head was HikeWtfe vci^ com- fiion here : from the ftru£hire of its beak, dtlT peo- ple called it a parroqiiet : it, however, does not belong to that tribe, but bears a great rcfcin^anee 3 to To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2031 to the lexia flavicans, or yellow crofs-bill of Lin^ pxus. Here are alfo owls, curlews, petrels, anci ganoets ; plovers of two fpecies, * one nearly the fame as our whittling plover ; a large white pigeon ; the common water-hen ; and a long-tailed bird, which is of a black colour, and the vent and fea- thers under the wings yellow. The vegetable produce of the Sandwich Ifles h not very oiflEerent from that of the other iflands of the Pacific Ocean. We have already obferved, that the taro root, as here cultivated, was fuperior to aoy we had before tafted. The bread-fruit . trees thrive here, not indeed in fuch abundance as at Otaheite, but they produce twice as much fruit as they do on the rich plains of th?.t ifland. The trees are nearly of the fame height ; but the branches ihoot out from the trunk coniiderably lower, and with greater luxuriance of vegetation. The fugar- fanes of theie iflands grow to an extraordinary uze. One of them was brought to us at A tool, whoCe circumference was eleveq inches and a quarter ; and It h^d fourteen feet eatable. At Oneeheow we faw fome l^rge brown roots, from fix to ten pounds in ^I'eight, refembling a yam in fhape. The juice, qf which they yield a great quantity, is very fweet, and is ai| excellent mccedaneum for fugar. The natives are e:!^ceedingly fond of it, and make u(e of it as an article of their common diet ; and our people likewife found it very palatable and whole- fon^e. Not being abje to procure the leaves of this vegetable, we could pot afcertain to what fpecies of plant it b'^longed ;. but v-p fpppofed it to be the root of fome kind of fern. The natives of the Sandwich Ifles are doubtlefs of the fame extradion with the inhabitants of the Friendly and Society Ifland», of New Zealand, the Marquefas, and Eafter Ifland ; a race which poflefles all the known lands between the londtudes of 167 deg. fta4 260 4eg. £. smd betweeu tfiplatitiides of 47 ^ 12 B 2 deg, 20^6 Cook's third an:> last Voyage deg. S. and 22 deg. N. This fad, extraordinary as it is, is not only evinced by the general refem- blance of their perfons, and the great fimilarity of their manners and cuftoms, but feems to be efta- bliihed, beyond all controverfy, by the identity of their language. It may not, perhaps, be very difr ficult to conjeAure, from what continent they ori- ginally emigrated, and by what fieps they have diffufed themfelves over fo immenfe a fpace. They bear ftrong marks of affinity to fome of the Indiah tribes, which inhabit the Ladrones and Caroline liles ; and the fame affinity and refemblance, may alfo- be traced among the Malays and the Battas'. At what particular time thefe migrations happened is lefs eafy to afcertain ; the period, in all proba- bility, was not very late, as they are very populous, and have no tradition refpe^ling their own origin, but what is wholly fabulous ; though, on thp oihet hand, the iimplicity which is ftill prevalent in their manners and habits of life, and the unadulterated fiate of their general language, feem to demonftrate, that it could not have been atany very remote period. The natives of the Sandwich Iflands, in general, exceed the middle fize, and are well made. Th;:y walk in a very graceful manner, run with confideraf- ble agility, and are capable of enduring a great de^ gree of fatigue : but, upon the whole, the men are inferior with refpeft to a^^ivity and ftrength, to the inhabitants of the Friendly Iflands, and the women are lefs delicate in the formation of their limbs than the Otaheitean females. Their com- plexion is fomewhat darker than that of the Ota- lieitcans ; and they are not altogether fo handfome in their perfons as the natives of the Society Ifles. Many of both fexes, however, had fine open coun- tenances ; and the women, in particular, had white wellfet teeth, |;ood eyes, and an engaging fweet- nefs and fenfibility of look. The hair of thefe peo- ple is of a browniih black, neither uniformly curl- ing, . To The pACTPTi- *-i , ,., '^**""'0C-^A«, &c. 40,7 tag, like that of the Afi.:™ x» but varying: in this rS l,l"'^H'"'l°f America ; peans. There is one ftrikW 1 '* •'''"" °^ E""""- tures of every part of Al.^P'^™''*"')' '" «>« fea- . that, even in^th'^'^^ hand^^" "/''"" ' ^'''^h ^^ ways obfervable, a fulneft of fhT n",'' "'"'= '» al- flatnefs or fpreiin^ of 4e nj^r °?"''^''''°" ""X them frpm^he in! abitlSts of% '"' '^^'"S^i'^^ wholly improbable, that th:. L "T'*; " « not their cuftomary methyl „fff ?^y ^ ''"^ effba of formed by prefenTtowthl fh"''"°"' ^'"^h ^ per* »ofo tI.^ fame^iSfrioritvthlf """'"' °' '^^' ferved at other iflands in f hl'^^ r' ""' S^erally ob- likewife found here TT, J- f^P*'"'""' "'the er^s.^ perfeaiywellformed,SS'';h:r'"".''y"«-''^ pie, befides their generSinfr? "^«'°werclafs of peo- the variety of Ce and^Te ''k"' (""M'oaH 'n the populace of other nam o^ .k" " "« '^''A we met with more freouenMl "" *°'''''- B^t here, than in any of ?hr«,K ^^'^'^ °^ deformitir While we were c^i/ng^'ote"'"'!' «« vifit^ came on board ; one o? whom '^''"' **° <^«»rk the height of four-feet twoTnc?" *k°" °»°. ^ proportioned ; and th^LiT '^''"' •""' very well W the fame ftatwe 'we "f;:'' " TT"' »^" the natives, three who wereM "l' ^^' «no«>S young man who hadVTn ! A"'"P''»'='^ed, and! feet /rom the ve^ mlfent off "kI' .°^ '"'»d» ^nd ' K alfo common anWtLl '''!'''• Squinting they toJd us, had SeXrn MlnH"" ' ?«■• ^^o^ us for the purpofe of i^ '"''' *as brouitht to particular d!fX,thVT,S F^"d. BcadJtMc fubreatoboilsandulcTrs li'Kf""^'i '=*'^<='nely to the great quantityTf fait th5r°^n"' »'""•««« thejr fifc ind fleft. I^honch th.7 """'' *« "** thefe complaints, manvlf h '^ »'^« '■•«« from more dreadful <^kca'Zm th^'Z?^'"'' «« the«.,.TI^fe„h,,,,Xt^°^ro;iS;^ £038 Cook's third anb last Voyage their eyes red and inflamed, their limbs emaciated, their bodies covered with a whitiih fcurf, and their whole frame trembling and paraly tic» attended with a difability of raiiing their heaJs. Though it does not appear that this druguniver^ ially ihortens life, (for Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and fe- veral other chiefs, were far advanced in years) yet it invariably brings on a premature and decrepid old age. It h a fortunate circumftance for the peo» pie, that the ufe of it is made a peculiar privilege of the chiefs. The young foa of Terreeoboo, who did not exceed 1 2 pr i g years of age, frequently boafted of his beii^g admitted to drink ava ; and Ihewed us, with marks of exultation, a fmall fpot in his fide that was beginning to g^ow f<;aly. When Captain Cook firft viuted the Society Ifles, this per- siciqus driig was very little known among them. In his fecond voyage, he found it greatly in vogue at Ulietea ; but tt had fiill gained little ground at Otaheite. During the laft time we were there, the havock it had made was almoft incredible, info? much that Captain Cook fcarce recognized many of his, ibrmer acquaintances. It is alfo conftantly drank by the chiefs of the Friendly liles, but io much diluted with water, that it fcarcely produces any ..bad cocfequences. At Atooi, likewife, it is ufed with great moderation ; and the chiefs of that iiland are, on this account, a much finer, fet of men, than^thofe of the neighbouring iilands. It was remarked by us, that, upon difcontintiing the ufe of this root, its noxious effects quickly wore •ofT. We preva'Ied upon our friends Kaoo and Kaireekeea, to abftain from it ; and they recovered furprifingly during the ihort time we afterWftirdt remained among them. It may be thought, that to form any probable conjectures with regard to the population of iflands, with many parts of which we have but an impertcd acquaintance, to bea ta&Jugh?^.diiiaUt» There To THE Pacific Oceai^, 3rc. 203^ There are two circum (lances, however, which re- move much of this objection. One is, that the interior parts of the country are almoft entirely un- inhabited : if, therefore, the number of thofe who inhabit the parts adjoining to the coaft, be afcer- tained, the whole will be determined with fome degree of accuracy. The other circumftance is, that there are no towns o^ any cdiifiderable extent, the houfes of the iflanders being pretty equally fcat- tered ifi fmall villages round aul their coafts. On thefe grounds ^e fhall venture at a rough calcula*- tion of the number of perfons ia this clufter of iflands. Karakakooa Bay, in Owhyhee, is about three miles in extent, and comprehends four villa|;es of about 80 houfes each, upon an average, in 3113 2d ; befides manv firaggling habitations, which may make the wnole amount to 350. If we allow fix people to each houfe, the country about the bay will then contain 2, too perfons. To thefe we may- add 50 families, or 300 fouls, which we imagine tdi be nearly the number employed among the plantar tiolis in the interior parts of the ifland ; making, in all, 2,400. If this number be applied to the whole coaft round the ifland, a quarter being de- ducted, for the ilBinhabited parts, it will be found to contain 150,000 perfons. The other SandwicK lilandu, by the fame method of calculation, will appear to contain the following number of inha- bitants : Mowee, ^5,400 ; Atooi, 54,000 ; Moro- toi, ^6,000; Woahoo, ^0,200; Kanai, 20,400; Oneeneou, 10,000 ; and Oreehoua, 4,000. Thefb numbers, including the 1 50,000 in Owhyhee, will amount to 400,000. In this computation we have by no means exceeded the truth in the total amount. We muft confefs, notwithftanding the great lo^ we fuftained from the fudden refentment and vio>- lence of thefe iflanders, that they arc of a very miM 8040 Cook's third and LAst Voyage mild and affedionate difpofition, equally remote from the diftant gravity and referve of the natives of the Friendly Ifles, and the extreme volatility of the Otaheiteans. They feem to live in the grcateft friendfhip and harmony with each other. Thofe 'women who had children, ihewed a remarkable affe^ion for them, and paid them a particular and condant attention ; and the men, with a willing- jiefs that did honour to their feelings, frequently afforded their ailtflance in thofe domeftic employ- ments. We muft, however, remark, that they are •greatly inferior to the inhabitants, of the other lilands, in that befl criterion of civilized manners^ the refped: paid to the female fex. Here the wo* men are not only deprived of the privilege of eat- ing with the men, but are forbidden lo feed on the 1l)eft forts of provifions. Turtle, pork, feveral kinds of fifh, and fome fpecies of plantains, are denied them ; and we were informed, that a girl received a violent beating, for having eaten, wnile fhe was on board one of our fhips, a prohibited article of food. With regard to their domeftic life, they feem to live almoft wholly by themfelves, and meet wkh little attention from the men, though no inftances of perfonal ill-treatment were obferved by us. We have already had occalion to mention the great kindnefs and hofpitality, with which they treated lis. Whenever we went aihore, there was a conti- nual ftruggle who ihould be moil forward in offer- ing little prcfents for our acceptance, bringing provi- iions and refrefhments,orteflifying fome other mark of refped. I'he aged perfons conllantly received us, with tears of joy, appeared to be highly grati- fied with being permitted to touch us, and were frequently drawing comparifons between us and themfelves, with narks of extreme humility. The young women, likewife, were exceedingly kind 2nd engaging, and attached themfelves to us, withr >PUt referve, till they perceived, notwithftanding aU \ . our To THE Pacific OceaNj^c. 2041 • pur endeavours to prevent it, that they had cauftf to repent of our acquaintance. It muft, however^ be obferved, that thefe females were, in all proba- bility, of the inferior clafs ; for we faw very few women of rank during our continuance here^ Thefe people, in point of natural capacity, are, by no iheans, below the common ftandard lof the hu- man race. The excellence of their manufa(fturesi tnd their improvements in agriculture, are doubt- Icfs adequate to their fituation and natural advan- tages. The eagernefs of curiofity. With which theV lited to attend the armourer's forgCj and the vari- ous expedients which they had invented, even be- fore our departure from thefe iilands, for working the iron obtained from us, into fuch forms as were beft calculated for their purpofes, were ftrong indi- cations of docility and ingenuity. Our unhappy friend, Kaneena, was endowed with a remarkable quicknefs of conception, and a great degree of ju- dicious curiofity. He was extremely inquifitive with refpect to our manners and cuftoms. He en- quired after our fovereign, the form of our go- vernment, the mode of conftrufting our ihips, the produtflions of our country, our numbers, our method of building houfes ; whether We waged any wars ; with whom, on what occafions, and in what particular manner they were carried on; who was our deity ; befides many other queftions of a fimilar import, which feemed to indicate a comprehenfive Underftanding. We obferved tWo inftances of per* Tons difordered in their fenfes ; the one a woman at Onecheow, the other a man at Owhyhee. From the extraordinary refpeft and attention paid to them, it appeared, that the opinion of their being divinely infpired, wjiich prevails among moft of the orien- tal nations, is alfo countenanced here. We are inclined to think, that the practice of feeding on the bodies of enemies, was originally prevalent in all the iilands of the Pacific Ocean, No. 74. 12 G ' though 2042 Cook's third and last Voyage though it is not known, by pofitive and deciilvc evidence, to exiil in any of them, except New- Zealand. The offering up human vidims, which is manifeftly a relique of this barbarous cuftom, flill univerfally obtains among thefe iflanders ; and it is not difficult to conceive why the inhabitants of New-Zealand fhould retain the repaft, which was, perhaps, the concluding pare of thefe horrid rites, for a longer period than the rett of their tribe, who were fituated in more fertile regions. As theSand- , wich iflanders, both in their perfons and dtfpofition, bear a nearer refemblance to the New-Zealanders, than to any other people of this very extenfive race, Mr. Anderfon was flrongly inclined to fufpe£):, that, like them, tliey are fiill citnnibals. The evidence, which induced him to entertain this opinion, has been already laid down ; but, as Mr. King had great doubts of the juflnefs of his concluilons, we ihall mention the grounds on which he ventured to dif- fer from him. With regard to the intelligence re- ceived on this head from the natives themfelves, it may not be impi-oper to obferve, that moft of the officers on board took great pains to enquire into fo curious a circumflance ; and that, except iq the inflances above referred to, the iflanders invariably denied that any fuch practice exifled among them. Though Mr. Anderfon's fuperior knowledge of the language of thofe people, ought certainly to give confiderabie weight to his judgment, yet, when he examined the man who had the little parcel, con- taining a piece of falted fiefh, Mr. King, who Mas prefent on that occafion, was flfongly of opinion, that the figns made ufe of by the iflander inti- mated nothing more, than that it was dtfigned to be eaten, and that it was .very agreeable or whole- fome to the llomach. In this fentimcnt Mr. King^ was confirmed, by a circumftance of which he was informed, after the (^cceafe of hi^ ingenious friend Mr. Anderfon, namely, that moft of the inhabi- tants To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2043 tants oF thcfe iflands carried about with them a fmall piece of raw pork, well falted, either put in a calibafh, or wrapped up in fome cloth, and f'aftened round the waift : this they efteemed a great delicacy, and would frequently tafte it. With regard to the confufion the lad was in, (for his age did not exceed 16 or 1 8 years) no perfon could have been furprized at it, who had been witnefs of the earned and ea^er manner in which Mr. Anderfon interrogated him. Mr. King found it lefs eafy to controvert the argument deduced from the ufe of the inftrument made with ihark's teeth, which is of a fimilar form with that ufed by the New-Zealanders for cutting up the bodies of their enemies. Though he believed it to be an undoubted fa£b, that they never make ufe of this inftrument in cutting the flefh of other animals, yet as the practice of facnficing human vi^ms, and of burning the bodies of the (lain, ftill prevails here, he confidered it as not altogether improbable, that the ufe of this knife (if it may be fo denomi- fiated) is retained in thofe ceremonies. He was, upon the whole, inclined to imagine, and particu* larly from the laft-mentioned circumilance, that the horrible cuftom of devouring human flefh has but lately ceafed in thefe and other iflands of the Paci- fic Ocean. Omiah acknowledged, that his coun- trymen, inftigated by the fury of revenge, would fometimes tear with their teeth the flefli of their flain enemies ; but he peremptorily denied that they ever eat it. The denial is a flrong indication that the pradice has ceafed ; for in New-Zealand, where it is dill prevalent, the natives never fcrupled to con- fefs it. The natives of the Sandwich Iflands, almoft uni- verfally permit their beards to grow. Jhere were, however, a few who cut oflF their beard entirely, among whom wa# the aged king • and others wore it only onj^jMl^tipper-lip. The fame variety that k found, among the other iflanders of this ocean, 12 C 2 with J044 Cook's third and last Voyage with refpcft to the mode of wearing the hair, is likewife obfervable here. They have, beiides, a failiion which (eems to be peculiar to therofelves : they cut it clofe on each fide of their heads, down to their ears, and leave a ridge, of the breadth of a fmall hand, extending frona the forehead to the neck ; which, when the hair js pretty thick and curling, refemblcs, in point of form, the creft of the helmet of an ancient warrior. Some of them wear great quantities of falfe hair, flowing in long ringlets down their backs ; while others tie it into one rolmd bunch on the upper part of their heads, Dearly as large as the head itfelf ; and fome into fix. or feven I'eparate bunches. They ufe, for the purpofe of daubing or fmearing their hair, a greyilh clay, mixed with fliells reduced to powder, ivhich they keep in balls, and chew mto a fort of pafte, whenever they intend to make ufe of it. This cbmpofition preferves the fmoothnefs of the hair, and changes it, in procefs of time, to a pale yellow. Necklaces, conlifting of firings, of imall variegated fhells, are worn both by men and woniien. They alfo wear an ornament, about two inches in length, and half an inch in breadth, ihaped like the handle of a cap, and made of ftone, wood, or ivory, extremely well poli0ied: this is bung round the neck by fine threads of twifl:ed hair, which are fometimes doubled an hundred fold. ?ome of them, inftead of this ornanient, wear a fmall human figure on their breall, formed of bone, and fufpended in a fimilar manner. Both fexes make ufe of the fan, or fly-flap, by way of ufe and orna- ment. The moft common fort is compofed of co- toa-nut fibres, tied loofely in bunches, to the top of a poliflied handle. The tail-feathers of the cock, and thofe of the tropic- bird, are ufed for the fam^ purpofe. Thofe that are moft in efteem, are fuck as have the handle formed of the leg or arm bones ^f ao eoeoiy kiUc(} ia battle ; thefe »re prcf«rved ' ' with To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2045 with extraordinary care, and are handed down, from father to fon» as trophies of the highed value. The pradlice of tatooing, or punduring the body, prevails among thefe people ; and, of all the iflands m this ocean, it is only at New-Zealaad, and the Sandwich Ides, that the face is tatooed. There is this difference between thefe two nations, that the New-Zealanders perform this operation in elegant ipiral volutes, and the Sandwich libnders in ftraight lines that interfecl each other at right angles. Some of the natives have half their body, from head to foot, tatooed, which gives them a moll ftriking ap- pearance. It is generally done with great neatnefs and regularity. Several of them have only one arm thus marked ; others, a leg ; fome, again, tatco both an arm and a leg ; and others only the hand. The hands and arms of the women are pundured in a very neat manner ; and they have a remarka- ble cuftom of tatooing the tip of the tongues of fome of the females. We had fome reafon to io^a- gine, that the pradice of puncturing is often in- tended as a fign of mourning, on the deccafe of a chief, or any other calamitous occurrence : for wp were frequently informed, that fuch a mark was iu memory of fuch a chief ; and fo of the others. The people of the loweft order are tatooed with a parti- cular mark, which diiUnguifhes them as the pro- perty of the chiefs to whom they are trefpediyely fubjcd. ■ The common drefs of the men of all ranks con- fiAs, in general, of a piece of thick cloth, called the maro, about a foot in breadth, which pafles be- tween the legs, and is faftened round the waift. Their mats, which are of various (izes, but, for the mod part, about Eve feet in length, and four an breadth, are thrown over their ffionlders, and brought forward before. Thefe, however, aie rarely made ufe of, except in time of war, for which purpofe they appear to be better calculated yUian for common ufe, dnce the^ are of a thicks ' heavy 304^ Cook's third avd last Voyage heavy texture, and capable of breaking the blow of a ftone, or of any blunt weapon. They generally go bare-footed, except when they travel over burnt ones, on which occaiion they fecure their feet with a kind of fandal, which is made of Cords, twiftecl from cocoa-nut fibres. Befides their ordinary drefs, there is another, which is appropriated to their chiefs, and worn only on extraordinary occafions. It confifts of a feathered cloak and cap, or hel- met, of uncommon beauty and magnificence. This ' drefs having been minutely defcnbed, in a former part of our work, we have only to add, that thefe cloaks are of different len^ ^hs, in proportion to the rank of the perfon who w s them ; fome trailing on the ground, and othen. no lower than the mid- dle. The chiefs of inferior rank have likewife a iliort cloak, which refembles the former, and is made of the long tail-feathers of the cock, the man-of-war bird, and the tropic-bird, having a broad border of fmall yellow and red feathers, and alfo a collar of the fame. Others are compofed of white feathers, with variegated borders. The cap, or helmet, has a ftrong lining of wicker-work, fuifi- cient to break the blow of any warlike weapon ; for which purpofe it appears to be intended. Thefe feathered dreffes feemed to be very fcarce, and to be worn only by the male fex. During our whole continuance in Karakakooa Bay, we never obferved them ufed, except on three occafions ; firft, in the remarkable ceremony of Terreeoboo's firft vifit to our fhips ; fecondly, by fbme chiefs, who appeared among the crowd on more, when our unfortunate commander was killed; and, thirdly, when his bones were brought to uz by Eappo. The ftriking refemblance of this habit to the cloak and helmet which the Spaniards formerly wore, excited our curiofity to enquire, whether there might not be fome reafonable grounds for imagining that it had been borrowed from them. After all oyr endea- vour^ •ver before re3 a "fif i''**' jfl»»d. havtag ours. However, not»,l^ veffeJ. af »qu.nes on th4 fuW^*""*"/ theref„,t of o,^' feeins to be a fuffidem Jn'-t- *• *°^ of tW* habit buccaneer, or SnT^l'^^uwd ^ fnpnofr/ilTr™' women, thercisvervi.?;, 52^"^ a«d that of th^ wear a piece of i^t "^'^ difference T^l i ^^ which dSv hat ir^^pj^ "•"»«<« l":^a formed 1^8 GooitM tlirRi) AUb last Voyaq£ l^ed a kind 6f fhiide^to t&e fitt, atid fdrheiii/^t tdembled a fmall bdtihet. Befide^ their netklaofed df fliens, ot of a (hiriiiig, hiMi ttd htiry, thiy^tiT dried flbwe** of thclhdiatf maliow, form^ ittto wreaths, and likewife ahothei* cile^af.e drnaoAelie^ teamed eraie; tirhich h idttii^ thnei ftiftened t-ound the hair in tide ttizniitttii garland, bot-isufnally pnt totiftd the neck ; thbtig^ if k M«)rn otcafionally in both theft: 'Strays ai dUtlii it h a kind of ruff, about as thick as a finger, fdtiiidd ■watk g^rcat irfgenuity, of very fmall feathers^ N^by^h tlofely togeihef, ihfomuc^h, thaft thtf fui-facef ndyb^ fald to cijtial theiritheft velvcit iniinbothhel^.^ Thef gtbund ii, iiV gieftei^l, red, with Alternate tfrclcs of bhick, yeiioW and green. We have already de- ferred their bi^dttS, of ^hrch ihtef haVe'agrfeat' variety. Some of the! \rhUe in mbtioti j which bbth'it*es, •wlken they dance^ faften either rbti^fd the indes', of' juft below the knee, or roun^ the atin. ThcV ^Wrrt- timei, inftead of ftiells, ufe foir thii Jrtirt»bftf, -l^he teeth of dogs, and a hard red bcrty. Ahoth^t Or- li^ament, if it defer\'ies that nam^, is a kiiid of %afk, cbmpofed of a large gourd, hiviri^ Hbl'e^ cttt iWit fdr the nofe and eyes. Tht t6^ of it h ftlict fvAl of green twigs^ \*hieh appear at foEftfe'dift£int:^,l&e a waving plunrici and the lb\^tf p'irtf has n'aiVov^ ih*ipes of cltalth h&ri|^ing froih itj TbtAiWliaid rH*eni-* bling a beard. Thefe mafks we lievW; Hi^' '^qm but on two occafions, and both tithes by a mWhber of perfons aflemblcd in a canoe, whb appfoatehed the fide of the fhip, laughing and making droll ge{^icu)ations. We could never Icam whethet* they were j^ot aUb ittade vfe of us a defence fot" thehead a^ainft »"«|BS.'*"S'f t«'., .'.If 1 ■mm lt mtAi J t ¥^0i AQt t and fdniev^t :heir neckla; oAer. ^' <^td"'"dts '^?J^\^^"tKd'.:i various d™e„fio„,.To^ .^t??"'*'"'"" »■* of wA^TLefe, we were infor^T'^ °P'» « ""e •?nly one th.t we vifi^ n *"*• »"<». in the fcrved runnin ^o^?^- » ?one fence bei,^^ ob! mmm wmmmmk JO50 CoOK'^ TH I ad and LAgT VoYAGE bablC) that, as thefe vegetable articles are commonly ' planted in the interior parts of the country, the iflanders might not have fufficient time for bring- ing them down to us, during our ihort continu- ance in Wymoa Bay. Their fifh are falted, and preferyed in gourd-ihells, not, indeed, with a view of providing againft an occafional fcarcity, but from the inclinaitioii they have for falted provifions; for we found, that the chiefs had frequently pieces of pock pickled in the fame manner, which they coniidered as a great delicacy. Their cookery is much the fame as at the Friendly and Society •Iflands ; and though fome of our people difliked their taro puddings, on account of their fournefs, bthers were of a different opinion. It is remark- able, that they had not acquired the art of prcferv- ing the bread-fruit, and making of it the four paite, named maihee, as is the practice at the Society liles ; and it afforded us great fatisfa^tion, that w6 had it in our power to communicate to them this fecret, in return for the generous treatment we re- ceived from them. At their meals they arc very cleanly ; and their method of dreffing both their vegetable and animal food, was acknowledged uni* ved*ally to bp fuperior to ours. The erecs begin, conftantly their meals with a dofe of the extra^ of pepper root, or ava, prepared in the uf|Uii mode. The women eat a part from the other fex, and are prohibited, as before obferved, from feeding on pork, turtle, and fome particular fpecies of plan- tains. Notwithftanding this inderdidliort, they would eat, privately, pork with us : but-we couM never prevail on them to tafte the two latter articles of food. They generally rife with the fun ; and having enjoyed the cool of the evening, retire to their repofe a few hours after fun-fet. The erees are employed in making canoes, and mats; -the towtows are ohiefly engaged in their plantations, an j in iiihing \ and the women in the manufa<^ur«< *AciFic Ocean & fees are fond of dandne .nrf '''°""'°^'««'' occafions, they entert^n ?L™r i °" """"' Solemn and boxing matcS p°erfc^^^" ««h ^^^''^R of the native, of th^ ^iZtf/'f ">« -nannc? however, they are greaSvl^?'^^ ?"* • «» whom Their dances; whifhhi7 '"fcriorm thefe refpec^', ">ofe of the CXfc^f^'^-- ■•efcmblaK orSoaety Manders. are imrLl "/'^« friendly kind of fong, ,„ Vwch Af^'^u''^ "^^ » folemi ttnkmg gently their breffts • X- "^ '*?"• '"d manner being very eafv?ni * "'^'' »««udes and reftmble the dan%fof ^e q^ -"^'i »" ^r thev <*« has continned^b^^j'^' S^'«y ">'«'«• Afl^ «hey n„,ckeng:^dualty"heirnfSH'°* ten minutes.- ^"d do not deSft mt^cyZZ^^'J^ **« »""'.' P>s part of the perforSlt °PP^e^ with feticu* r ' 'iat of the inhab^^HfT '*,' ~"nter.pa« of "«o°gthofenepi3b Z.° -?'"'-^«''Md; aid «* "■oft ^olwt,^rwho cS^"" *'""■<= »«>on"s the 'ongeft. i, applaSd^^^by t ''"f^'*"««*'ft the' tte females only enrage t^'.'.'i'"' '? '^is dance*: the men refemble tho^l^eVaw 'f *l*^/ dances of - « the Friendly Mes • rn^^rS^.'^efmall parties- moreprpperly/be te^j^d wh,ch "ay. P^hap^ fo»p, with the co,ref^Xtt?°™P»°yn'««*of ^'£- ^"' «« we favS L"'?'"'"»?f the whole .•Je feme kind with Sr™h^7ff«WWtions, o? Me;, It is not improWWe ,ht? f^ \' "" ^"'^hr ' Wife their trandlw. ' ." they had here hW women ,.erT'^rf^^«> *fe'° V ""- S' wd other occaOons, Vof I^^^'^l!.^ «> thefe, Mly inftruments. we S>f«vtl ' *'"'*» «>' tiw , *"«» of various fe« rf*- "T^S 'hem, were '^h.ch they are faid t?fi3"" «"'g». howevw^, '% accompany -i^^g^nle^^oS^^VtL' '^^■''^' zo$z Cook's third and last Voyage like thofe of the inhabitants of the Friendly Ifles, have a very pleafing effed. Thefe people are greatly addi^ed to gambling. One of their games retembles our game of draughts ; but, from the number of fquares, it feems to be much more intricate. The board is of the length of about two feet, and is divided into 238 fquares, 14 in a row. In playing they ufe white and black pebbles, which they move from one fquare to ano- ther. They have a game which confifts in con- cealing a ftone under fome cloth, fpread out by one of the parties, and rumpled in fuch a manner, that it is difficult to perceive where the ftone lies. The antagonift then flrikes, with a ftick, that part of the cloth where he fuppofes the (lone to be ; and the <;hances being, upon the whole, againft his hitting it, qdds of all degrees, varying with the opinion of the dexterity of the parties, are laid on the occa- fion. Their manner of playing at bowls nearly re- fembles that of ours. They often entertain them- felves with races between boys and girls, on which they lay wagers with great fpirit. We faw a man beating his breaft, and tearing his hair, in the vio- lence of rage, for having loft three hatchets at one €if thefe races, which he had purchafed from us with near half his property a very little time before. In fwimming, both (exes are very expert ; an art that, among thefe people,, is deemed neceflary, and is their favourite diverdon. One particular me- thod, in which we fometimes faw them amufe themfelves, is worthy of notice. The furf, that breaks on the coafl- round this bay, extends about ii5o yards from the (hore ; and within that fpace, th^ (urges of the fea are.da(hed againft the beach with extreme violence. Whenever the impetuoiity of the furf is augmented to its greateft height, thev qiake choice of that time for this amufcment, which they perform in this manner : about 20 or 30 of tikc natives take each, a long narrow boarjl} rounded ?i'i . ' - - . •'■ * at ACIFIC OCIAN, &c. 20O atbotii ends: and frf ««* il other from theftore TW^,""'?"*^ ^* «ch wave they meet, and aft^'iif ""!?* •""•« the firft roll over them^iktit^hZlZ^^'" '""*"«' it to tier out into the fea *^ ^'^'""' "• ""d fwim far- wave in ehefame mannerwrthr^i™" "'"■'=°"d opal difficulty conliftsinfrl- ""'^r* '•'"'•epriri. portunity of d'ivinguX i^fof ?/»vouraWe^p. the proper moment, he is ca/^hJ 'k ?*''?" ««>« forced back with o^lt "■*'f"S'" h the furf, and dexterity i, re;tfd?to mvent'h'"^ ■'"'"''""« againft the rocfcj. When'^^'!^!"','"' ^'"8 dafted repeated eflbrts. they hav? '?: '"jll*!"'"" of thefe beyond the furf, they ricl.wt' "'5 f°>°°"' water "Pon the boards, a7dnrerj''r'*i^f» « '""gth ?^res, of which eve?f tiiTJT.lr°' " """"ber of fiderably larger thaS^the rdl ^^w ?'^ '° ''« ^°"- upon the fto?e. while thL^fc ' ^J** '" *"* higher mediate fpace/thriJ firt S •'"'''" "'=i«er- felvesonihetopof theUr^i'? " '"P'"" 'hem- them along with aftnn a^^ '"'"S*' which drives l«d. If fyIltofc*X"L"S'!!f^ 'T^d, the on one of the fmalle? waTes wLI fr '^emfelves they gain the ftore. or iSo.^M « i"'''.''"*''^ ''eforc - ahle to keep their biard in ,„!„ i'"2""«'v" "n- HfPer part of the fwell thLT ''•"■'^'°" ""'he thefuryofthene«; toaloidwh^r fP°'"'='' "> der the neceffity of divinT^ • ' 'Wareun- Ae place from whence th!vS'"' ""'' '"hovering fucceed in reachinrthe ftL ""'• ''"''<'fe whf hazardous fituation^ a! rh. '* f ? '"" » » very phain of rocks, wki, a fm,.l '''"'? " ''«'<=nded byT '? ffveral pla^erth^'^^" °P1?«? between th^m Pank through one of^efeo.^n'^'' '" *«* 'heir 'U fwcefr iS that refo^ £"""9» '. o-".;" cafe of reach the rocks anrt !«^' "l"" " before thev their way bTckig^t'^'f ""der '''=«^-«. «akj « confidered as hKj.Se 'uY'',*'.' *.""*• ^his , ^ 6 ' "s*^*"'"'' and IS attended with 3054 Cook's third and last Voyage « with, the lofs of the plank, which we have feen daihed to pieces, at the very inftant the native quit- ted it. The amazing courage and addrefs, with which they perform thefe dangerous atchievement» are almoU incredible. The following accident evinces, at how early a period they ai e fi> fa? ac* cuftomed to the water, as to lofe all apprehenfions. of its perils, and even fet them at defiance. A ca- noe, in which was a woman and her children, hap- pening to ovcrfet, one of the children, an infant of about four years old, appeared to be greatly de- lighted, fwimming about at its eafe, and playing a number of tricks, till the canoe was brought to its former pofition. Among the amufements of the children, we obfei ved one that was frequently played at, and'whiqh fhewed a confiderable fliare of dexterity. 1 hey take a fhort flick, through one extremity whereof runs a peg iharpened at both ends, extending about an inch on each fide, then throwing up a ball, formed of green leaves moulded together, and fattened with twine, thvy catch it on one of the points of the peg; immediately after which, they throw it up again from the peg, then turn the (lick round, and catch the ball on the other point of the peg. Thus, for ibme time, they continue catching it on each point of the peg al- ternately, without miffing it. They are equally expert at another diveriion of a fimilar nature, throwing up in the air, and catching, in their turns, many of thefe balls ; and we haveoften feen little children thus keep five balls in motion at once^ Ts'his latter game is alfo pracHfed by the young peo- pie of the Friendly Illes. The figure and dimen- * iions of the canoes, feen by us at Atooi, have been already defcribed. Thofe belonging to the. other Sandwich lilands were made exadly in the fame manner ; and the largeft we faw was a double one, the property of Terreeoboo, meafuring 70 feet in length, (2 in brcadthj and between 3 and 4 in. I . depth J To T It B Pa c 1 f 1 1- O c E A N, &c; 2055 depth ; and each was hoHowod ' but of one trep.* Their method of navigation, as well as that of agri- culture, refemble thole of the other iflaods in the Pacific Ocean. They have made confiderable pro- ficiency in the art of fcujpture, and in painting or ftaining cloth. The moft curious fpecimens of their fculpture, that we had an opportunity of obferving, were the wooden bowls, in which the erees diink ava. Thefe are, in general, eight or ten inches in diameter, perfedly round, and extremely well po- lifhed. They are fupported by three or four fmall human figures, reprefented in different attitudes. Some of them reft on the ihoulders of their fup- porters ; others on the hands, extended over the head; and fome on the head and hands. The figures are very neatly finiflied, and accurately pro- portioned ; even the anatomy of the mufcles is well exprefled. Their cloth is manufaiclured in' the fame manner as at the Society a(nd Friendly Iflands. That which they intend to paint, is of a ftrong and thick tex- ture, feveral folds being beaten and incorporated together ; after which they cut it in breadths, two or three feet wide, and then paint it in a great va- riety of patterns, with fuch regularity and compre- henfivenefs of defign, as* fhew an extraordinary portion of tafte and fancy. The exa6lnefs with wliich the moft intricate patterns are continued, is really aftoniihing, as they have no ftamps, and as the whole is performed by the eye, with a piece of bamboo cane dipped in paint ) the hand being fup- ported by another piece of the fame fort of cane. They extract their colours fi'om the fame berries, and other vegetable articles, which are made ufe of at Otaheite for this purpofe. The operation of ftainin^ or painting their cloth, is confined to the females, and is denominated kipparee. They al-^ ways called our writing by this name. The young womeo would', feequently. take the pen from our f» . . ' hands, 2056 Cook's Tunto AND LAST Voyage hands, and Ihew us that they were as weH acquainted ^ith the ufe of it as we ourfelves ; telling U8« at the (ame time, that our pens were inferior to theirs. They confidered a manufcript fheet of paper as a piece of cloth ftriped after the mode oJF our country ; and it was with the greateft difficulty that we couki make them underhand that our figures contained a meaning in them, which theirs was deftitute of. Their mats they make of the leaves of the panda- nus ; and thefe, as well as their cloths, are beauti- fully worked in various patterns, and ftained with divers colours. Some of them have a ground of llraw'colour, embelliihed with green fpots : others are of a pale green, fpotted with fv^uares, or rhom- boids, of red ; and fome are ornamented with ele- gant ftripes, either in ftraightor waved lines of red and brown. Xn this branch of manufadure, whe- ther we regard the finenefs, beauty, orftrengthj thefe iflanders may be faid to excel die whole world. Their fiihing hooks are of various iizes and figures; but thofe tliat are principally made ufe of are about two or three inches in length, and are formed in the ihape of a fmall fiih, ferving asa bait^ with a bunch >of feathers faftened to the head or tail. They make their hooks of bone, mother-of-pearl, or wood, pointed and barbed with little bones, or tortoife-fhell. Thofe with which they fiih for iharks, are very: large^ being, in general, of the length of fix or eight inches. Gonudering the ma- terials of which uiefe hooks are compol<^d, their neatnefs and ftrength are amazing;, and, indeed, upon trial, we found them fupenor to pur own« Of the bark of the toota, or. cloth-tree, neatly rwifted, they form the line whicn they ufe for fiih« .ng, for making nets, and for foraeouiecpurpofes* It is of different degrees of finenefs,, and may be' continued to any length. They>have alfo a lort» made of the bark of a fhrub, named areemih; and the fined is compofisd of hui^aiL hair : this laft, however. To THi Pacific Ocean, &c. 205;^ however, is chiefly made ufe of in the way of or- nament. They likewife make cordage of a ftronger kind, from cocoa-nut fibres, for the rigging of their canoes. Some of this, which was purchafed by us for our own ufe, was found to ht welt calculated for the fmaller kinds of running rigging. They alfo manufacture another fort of cordage, which is flat, and extremely ftrong, and is principally ufed for the purpofe of Igfhing the roofs of their houfes. This laftis not twi(^daUer the manner of the for- mer forts, but is formed of the fibrous (Irings of the coat of the cocoa-nut, plaited wi^h the fingers^ in the fame manner which is pradifed by our fca- men in -making their points for the reefing of fkils.' Their^ourds are (ipplied to various domeflic pur« pofes. Thefe ^row to fuch ap. enoi'nious magni- tude, that Tome of them will contain from .ten to a dozen gallons. In order to adapt them the bet- ter to their refocftive ufes, they take care to give them different mapes, by faftening bandages round them during their growth. Thus fon^ie of them are in the form of a diih, ferving to hold their pud- dings, vegetables, aiid falted provifions : others are of a lon^ cylindrical form, and ferve to contain their fiflimg tackle ; which two forts are furniflied with neat clofe covers, made alfo of the gourd. Others are in the ihape of a long- necked bottle ; and in thefe water is kept. They (core thepi frequently with a h^ted iniirument, fo as to communicate to them the,appearance of being painted, in a great variety of eleeant defigns. Their pans in which they make their fait, are made of earth lined with clay, and are in general fix or eight feet (quare, and about two thirds of a foot in depth. They are elevated on a bank pf flones, near the high- water- mark, whence the fatt water is cOnduoed to the bottom of then), in trenches, out of which they are filled; and in a ihort time the fun performs the procefs of the evaporation. The fait we met with No. 75. 12 E at 105^ Cook's thiao and last Voyage at Onceheow and Atooi, during our firft vifit, was bi'ownifh, and rather dirty ; but that which we af- terwards procured in Karakakooa Ba^, was white, and of an excellent quality. We obtained an ample fuppiv of it, infomuch that, belides the quantity ufed by us in ialting pork, we filled all our empty c;aiks with it. The warlikie weapons of the inhabitants bf thefe iflands are daggers, which they call by the name of pahooa, fpears, flings, and clubs. The pahooa is made of a black, heavy wood, that refembles ebony. It is commonly from one to two feet in length, and has a (Iring pailing through the handle, by which it. is fufpended from the arm. The blade is fome- lyhat rounded in the middle : the fides are iharp, and terminate in. a point. This offenfive weapon is intended for clqfe engagements, and in the hands of the natives is a very deflrudive one. Their fpears are of two kinds, and are formed of hard wood, ^hich, in its appearance, is not unlike ma- hogany. One fort is from fix to eight feet in length, well poliihed, an^d increafin^ gradually in thicknefs from th& extremity till within the diftanc^ of fix or feven inches from the point, which tapers fuddenly, and has five or fix rows of barbs. It is probable that thefe are ufed in the way of javelins. The other fort, with which the warriors we faw at Atooi and Owbyhee were chiefly armed, are from 1 2 to 1 5 feet in length, and inflead of being barbed, terminate towards the point, in the manner of the daggers. Their flings are the fame with our com- mon ones, except in this refpeA, that the (lone is lodged on matting, inflead of leather. Their clubs are formed indifferently of feveral kinds of wood : they are of various fizes and fliapes, and of rude workmanfliip. The inhabitants of the Sandwich Iflands are di- vided intQ three clafles. The erees, or chiefs of each diftrid, are the fifft ^ and one of thefe is fupe^ rior To THE pACrrrr n to the r*./J ...L ... "^ rior to the reft «,fc • . "■» "boo. and"e;moee'%"r''«' " Owhyhee. eree- '"'horitv. and .rUteXni? ."="»' "F'^ng hi, fence, all m../i _: n ""''Rn"y"njtthat. in l.:A.- fecond daft appear fn "'.^™'«'''M- Thofe ofth- b"t have no ?£; ° "J"/ ? right of propcny, third clafs, are calW '»„ , "'''o compole the fc^ve neith'er «„k 'np/T'°^»' <"• ft"'*"^, and power and diftinftfon °fV''''P'"'5y- ^he fu^rior of 9«'>yhee. wa7?Xiem7v™-S°'''';«='^-^''"o "ihabitants all proftrated tZ^, ^"^ ""^»'- The of their houfes anrf ^ '''^'"'^'vM at the entrance he d'-'charged Ihe tt^rdia"°%^''* 'foo'^? tSl turned from Mowee an fl,"nH if' '" ""'" J^ft «- for. in behalf of his L J? •>« *« cont'ending W. the only child Xhe kini „'f":r°' ,^^°^' ^'f^ Jaheetcrree, his furv v.W ifr^l *" '^'''^«' "«=•'"« dition he was attended k*' brother. In this txpe- but we could never itrnte'' "i^ '"'" "^'"'o^i ?s volunteers, or whether m.k";]'''^'' '"«"'«d Wm property „„d'er th« tenure ^h'''' ."■*;■■ ""k and c^..efs are tributary to him ' U I^?f ""f '^bordinate the inflance of Kaoo «,T' k f^'^^ntly proved in '«ed. We have alfn .7r '''' > been already re- Powerful chirffof fhe & -'k'^^' ">e t,vo ^oft fons of PerreeoRtnnfe wfi?"^''" of the grand- genealogy of the kfngsof o:h't"'"'"fi'«"'hb It may beneceffary to menl?^^'''"* ?"'' ^owee, firft off Mowee -n^l u "' ""^t. when we were ^ boo v-X 20^6 Cook's thi b,d and Iast Voyage boo had been victorious. Matters, howeve' , were afterwards compromifed ; Tahecterreewa.-; i;o have ppffeffion of the three neighbouring iflands, during his life ; Teewarro to be acknowledged chief of. Mo- wee, and to fucceed to Owhyhee, on the death of Terreeoboo, together with the three iflands conti-; fuous to Mowee, after the deceafe of Tahceterrec. hould Teewarro, who has lately married his half iifter, die, and leave no iifue behind him, thofts; iflands are to defcend to Maiha-maiha, whoqti we have frequently mentioned, he being the fon of Terreeoboo's deceafed brother : and ihovild he die without iflue, it '" Joubtful who would be the fuc- cefibr, for Terreeoboo's two younger fons, b^ing born of a mother who had no rank, would be de- birred all right of fucceffion. We did not fee i^ueen Rorarora, whom Terreeoboo had left at Mo- wee •, but we had an, opportunity of feeing Kane(; kaberaia, the mother pf the two youths of whom lie was fo extremely fond. From what has been al- teady mentioned, it fliould feem that their govern- ment is hereditary ; whence it appears probable^ 'that the inferior titles, as well as property, defcend in the fame channel. Refpe^ling Perreeorannee, w^ only difcovered that he is an eree-taboo ; that he was, on fome pretence, invading the poffeilion of Taheeterree ; and that the inlands to the leewar^ were governed by his grundfons. The erees appear to have unlimited power oyei* the inferior clafles of people ; many inilances of which occurred daily while we contmued among them. On the other hand, the peopte are impli- citly obedient. It is remarkable, ho>yever, that we never faw the chiefs exercife any a6ls of cruelty, injuftice, or infolence towards them; though they put in pra^^icc their power over each other, in a moil tyrannical degree : which the two following inflances will fully demonllrate. One of the loWct order of chiefs having fhewn great civility to the mailer To fHE pAcirrc be |s AN, &c. 2o^f fpafter pf pur fliip, when employed pn the fiirvey of karakakooa Bay & Mr. King, fome time after- svarid".^ took him on board, and introduced hjm tq^ Captam Cook, wha engaged him to dine with us^ While at taible, Pareea entered , whofe yithout (luarjeHng with Pareea) than,- jlhat our guefi fhould be permitted to remain in thi^ pabbiui on condition that he feated himfelf on thcf $oor, while Pareea cc^cupied his place at the table* An inftapce fome what fimilar happened when Ter- reeoboo came firft on board the Refolution ; where! Maiha-niaiha, who attended the king, feeing Pareea upon deck, turned him moft ignominioufly out cl the (hip ; even though we knew Pareea to be a man of the firft confequence in the ifland. Whether the lower ckfs of people have their property fecured from the rapacity of the great, we cannot poffibly fay, but it appears to be well protected againft theft and de-^ predation. Ai! their plantations, their houfes, their nogs, and their cloth, are left unguarded, without fear 01* appreheniion pf plunderers. In the plain country, they feparate their pofTeflions hy walls | and, in the woods, >yhere horff: plantains grpw^ they ufe white flags to difcriminate property, in the fame manner as they do bunches of leaves zi dtahcite. Thefe circumftances ilrongly indicate, that, where property is concerned, the power of ^ the erees is not arbitrary^ but fo far limited, as to afford .encouragement to the inferior orders tq cultivate the foil, which they occupy diftind from each other. The information we obtained, refpcfling the td- ikiinifttation of juitice is very imperfe^. If a quar* t^ arofe among thjp lower clafs of people, t^hemat* ^o62 Cook's thikd and last Voyagi ter was referred to fome chief for his decifion. When an inferior chief had offended one of fupe- rior rank, his puniihment was dilated by, and the :cefult of, the feelings of the fuperior at that mo- S(ient. If the offender fliould fortunately efcape the iirft tranfports of the great man's rage, he perhaps found means, through the mediation of friends, to (compound for his offence, by all, or a part of his efieds. As to the religion of thele people, it re- iembles that of the Society and Friendly Iflands. In common with each other, they have all their > morais, their whattas, facred orations, hymns, and facrifices. Thefe are convincing proof:^that their religious rites and tenets are derived from the hmt fource* The ceremonies here are, indeed, longer, and more numerous than in the i0ands above-men- tioned ; and though in all thefe places, the care apd performance of their rf ligious rites, is committed to a particular clafs of people ; yet we h^d never found a regular fociety of priefts, till we arrived at Kakooa, in Rarakakooa Bay. Orono was the title given to the principal of this order ; a title which feemed to imply fomething facred in a high degree, and which almoft received adoration in the penon of Omeeah. The privilege of holding the principal offices in this order, is dcabtlefs limited to certain families. Omeeah, the orono, was Kaoo*s fon, and Kaireekeea's nephew. Kaireekeea pre- iided in all religious ceremonies at the morai, in the abfence of his grandfather : it was obferved, like- wife, that the (on of Omeeah, an infant of about the age of five years, had always a number of at- tendants, and fuch other marks of diilin^ion and efteem were ihewn him, as we never obferved ii\ ^ny ilmilar inftances. Hence we concluded, that his life was an object of much confequence, and that he would eventually fucceed to the h^h dig- city of his father. The title of orono, we hav^ already obferved, wa^ bellowed on Captain Coo|c ^ ?nc5 Vo YAGt his deciiion. one of fupe. ^ by, and the r at that mo- sly efcape the , he perhaps >f friends, to I part of his '-ople, it re- >dly Wands, ve all their bymns, and ^-that their 03 the fame ed, longer, bove-men- lie care aijd committed h^d never ^e arrived was the r J a title in a high on in the [ding the s limited IS Kaoo's cea pre* "» in the ?d, Jike- >f about r of at- ion and rvcd in d, that -e, an(| jhdig- e have 9n«f To THE ?Arf^r ^ ' '^-■ and it is ^^^Mf, &C. 20tf^ raided alfo arnon^ us 4 P^' "''»=h tJlev faia of thefe images wCTetJ; kA" ''"o* fefiWte ^eJf and about thelrZnf« ^/'l^'.'?*°»'h»S^ genera iv ha^ ^l" ^'^ *P^ »iere trifl«i . *.^.1°? !?^ff rfarM'^^'T ^° '"°t on ^hrwhattf "^'^ ^P^^^d a p ^ pwced. In a bav f« *L \,r "^«a, near whinh -f "^ « a psirtv nf ^ *®^^c fouthwarH xi ir?^" '^ ^as placet: ::rv, ■*"''«' '^Wcfc MrtJ„ l^^"^ name, ehe -Sp i^^^'^'^of dece^:^-,^J,^^^^^^ fefn withi,i thi?p,^- ^^.7«'« Of ^^'5,*S on many of them. Tiev . r \"'*'="'»» of offeriS*, »ns many l„dicro„,^S ^^T '"^'^mM Sp6^ foOK's THIRD AN>0 LAST yOYAGE j>eFfe£lly tame, and was told - thsy were e2it()oas : 4h^ gentlemea oiFered ieyeral articles for them^ .which were all refufed ; and he was particvilarly 4:autioned not to ofFend, or (hurt them. 'Amoi^g i|)eir religious ceremonies XDfay be dafled theprayers p^ .ofiei;^i|gs .made Ivy their priefis before their •^i^^ls. As.^tftcy always drink ava beforeiihey be^in i a;^^pa((, w^e that is chewing, therfuperior in rank i !^gii)S. a (fcpt of hymn, , in wl^^ch .he is fobn after j^il^d [t^ pfie or more of ^he jepmjp^ny ; the bodies ^ .of ythe otbeifs are putin •motion, and their hands f .^rejda^ped;.t6giether in concert with thefingers« ^ ,%I^e ]tix^> bjcingjijeady, ci\ps of it .are pre&nted to tj^ipie yrk ot Aom in the bypiUj, which, fare hc;ld ^(^ j^hisir %^t, . ^ill it Js conciudcd; y/h^, yrvh fl]^ii;ed voice^ -they make ^loud^rejJ>onfe, an^d^ink ^hoir , ^ya» flihe performers ar^. then ferv^ed >with 3rpme of it^'Avbichjtheytdjink;, afler. the fame.4:ere«> ^onyl^as been; repeated. And, if any period pf ^ Superior ,ifZ^k 1!>2kul4 her preJTent, a, cup is presented l;o himlail ipf ^U,}j^>vh9 haviqg cha^tet^ for a ihort ]timeia|nd hearii^^^rffppnfe^iFrQm (di,t$er;Sf, he pours a j^^ jiuantlty onrthejgroundtand drinks thefi^ft. A |>jej?cf ^ tlie,fle£h, which i^s been dre^ed, Js|,theo jpjiii: jol^ an4{j!^ettier.wit^.|ome o^^ placed, at, |^e.lfpot 6i the figure o^. j^e eatooa j^ and, after aitoth,er .Jb^^mA' has been cl^a^jted,, the;y begiu jtlj/eir imeair ^A c^remonyy. in many refoe^s refeiii* ]jjijl^g tjii&^risj^ dfo perfprnxeif by the chiefs, when jcwding.ta the ajccounts given- by the natives,, hu- ijSan Sacrifices are more cpmmon ,|iere than in !any f^ the illands -we have yifited. 1 hey have rccoui^c tp^jthelc horrid, rites, on the commencement of a .^ar, and .pi::evious to a battle, or any iignal enterr .^rize. Tlie death of every ii;nie£ demands an ofTer- ipg of one or moretowtows ; and we were informed .^Bpt leis than ten were devoted to fqffer, on the ^deceafc of Terreeoboo, the king. But the unhappy ' ., . vidinis \ — •. yOYAGK tere catooas j Bs for them^ particulady m. 'Amoi^g d theprayers before tbeir Ciiey bc^giq trior in rank isfobn after ; the bodies their hands the Angers, prcfentedto ich^^rehcld svhto, wb ;,anf 4rink fer^djwith I fame.jcerei' perfoijpf^ iS presented for a ihort he pours a thefi^ft. A sd, isf^thes getableSjis :ooaj^ and, thejy begiu 2<5^8 refem* icfs, when eals. Ac* LtiveSj.hu- an in .any e recou^Tc nent of a ;nal enter^ Is an offer- informed :r, on the : unhappy vidinis -f-^Tp rHfi Pacific Oc^an & fluent rites are to be oerfor^ ^' "'^f^ ""« -We. ow.remembrance tbc&'fn,' c ^t ''"°g» "» ficnficed on the deceafe nfr^"'^ '"^° had been W4 were fixed to tK,^f a^KaV"""?''' '^Wefi W|»ge we received fart^r?„V!*^°°» 5 at which jeft, fo,- we were ftewn a foT-"""" '''■'' f"!- snthin a ftone fence wMh P"*« "^ ground. Weree. orburpfngVhceof rhT'' '°'^ wasa «;l>ogave us this^info?mation^''^*- ^i^periba the corners, added; and tS TT''^'*'*™ of waheene-taboo, or the ml j ''^ *« '""gata and ficrifice, at hlswS ''itr'"l°.'"'°^^« fpre teeth, may be w?th } ^n°=king out their their religious c^uftomT V„7"/5J: "'^«<1 =»■»<"■« pie. and many of thT^hiife i, 5 ',H"'»«'"' P^ of them ; and^this, we undeWJ°'* °°* "■• ™°''« « a propitiatory facrifice to ?h- °^' ''"' '"""dered m^ : and not iSTe the " ?ft'*"»°»^ '» avert hia f oger at the Friendly Ifland^'""^ "^ P»« of the fence of their grief at rtt '° ^P'^^ the vio. Concerning thei?opi„1on. reW?*^ °f « f"«d. - we had very '-W^ Mold not learn. thVt (lev hln ,''•.''""'' ' ''««'« ?nd punilhmenL ^ ''*'' ""^ ''i^* of reward* ^Sr^K?Sced' 'to.'="'--rnoe «f the inter^urie b^'na i„H°.?^"JS 'he reafons deiire. •ZL666 Coo*:*s third and last-Vo^Tage dcfire, when we interred the remains of Captuh Cook. The moft implicit obedience, in thefe tw6 inftances, was rendered by the natives ; but whe- ther on religious principles, or in deference to civil authority,* we cannot pretend to determine. The ground whereon our obfervatories were fixed, and the place whereoti our maftswere depofited, were tabooed, and the operation was equally efficacious. •This confecration was performed by the priefts only; ^nd yet, at our requeft, the men ventured on the fpot which was tabooed ; whence it fhoUld feem they entertained no religious appreh6nfions, their obedience beifig limited merely to our refufal. No inducements could bring the women near us ; on account, it is prefumed, of thie moral adjoining ; which they are, at all times, prohibited from ap- proaching ; not only here, but in all the iflands of the fouth feas, women, it has been obferved, are always tabooed, or forbidden to eat certain articles of food. We have feen many of them, at their meals, have their meat put into their mouths by others ; and, on our requefting to know the reafon of it, we were informed, that they were tabooed, and not permitted to feed themfelves. This prohibition was always the confequence of aflifting at any fune- ral, touching a dead body, and many other occaii- ons. The word taboo, is indiffei^ently applied, either to perfons or things j as the natives are tabooed , the bay is tabooed, &c. This word is alfo expreG; ;five of any thing facred, devoted, or eminent. The king of Owhyhee is called eree-taboo, and a human vii^im, tangata-taboo ; and, amon? the Friendly Iflanders, Tonga, where the kihg relides, is called Tong4- taboo. i , * ^ With refpecl 19 their marriages, very little can be faid, except that fuch a compad feems to exilV among them. It has already been ni^ntiOned^ tte; when Terreeoboo had left his queen llora-rorafj at Mo wee, another woman cohabited with <)im",':fiy VotA GE J of Captaifi tn thefc tw6 ; but whe- tference to •^ determine. were fixed, ofited, were efficacious, •rieftsonly; red on the lotild feem ions, their fufail. No Jar us; on adjoining ; i from ap- iflands of Jrved, are tin articles >, at their nouths by ireafonof 3oed, and phibition any fune- er occafi- ed, either tabooed; b expref^ eminent, o, and a on^ the ; refides. »Aom he had cJ,.M~ •• * ». «fc. a6«f taf bed to; her -tT^^Ser IT^ P't'cnlarly iK or ^whether it h n^U^'^J^hs^myh ^uX^ not only fiddityt'C evfn"'*:r'«*^*» o?;anfc required. At one o£ fW^^'.^S*''^ of re«vTl| -iidTd\ri*'»""t?t"^'^,;iPC^^^ ^^ttrtt^n^^'^^e'^'^'^ -nclu^o'T'thrr "t? '" "^ P'-S ^ilt tiS ?»d even fohci^ fo^^'?"??!'"'. joined ow par^? .««, ace "di^Ttf "'5? of ^^A^L'^'i^ ,^^ -"14 not Xrui ^Ste?' ?hl J2F2 ^^**^ ^"^and on iiis 'i^69 Cook's ITHIJID! AKD Last Vot'Xoe hH behaviour, ivhich ^c had«ii ioclination to do,; l^linly telling us, that be had a£led very properiy* -: We bad twice an, opportunity, at Karakakooa 3ay, of feeing, a part of their funeral rites^ Hoar* Ing of the death of an old chief, not far from out obfervatories, ,foaic of ua rfcpaired to th isnt diftortions of the face. A large mat was after- awards fpr^d upon the area,i and thirteen wbipen #t|d twomeUs whocaitneoucoftbeiioufe, fat down .^fon it ii^. thr/ee.tqual rows ; thxec of the women, ;md the two men bein^ in front. The women bad leathered rufiS'On their necks add hands, and their Moulders ,M^er6 J decorated with broad green leaves^ ctirioufly fcolloped. Near a fniall hut, at one cor- ner of this anea^ half a dozea boys were placed, waving fmall white banners, and taboo (ticks, who would not permit us to a{^oach them. Hence we imagined,, that the dead body was depofited in the nut ; but we:were afterwards informed that it re^ mained in thchoufe, where the tricks were |ilaying at thedoor by thtjman in the red cap. The company feated on the mat»v fung a melancholy tune, accon^* panied with a gentle motion of. the arms and body. This having continued (bme' time, they putthem^^ felves in a poftlure between kneeling and fitting, and their arms and bodies into a moll rapid motion, keeping pace, gt the fame time, with the mufic, Thefe laft exertions being too violent tocontinue, at intervals they had (lower motions. An hour having paiTed in th'efe ceremonies, more mats were fpread upoA, the area, when the dead chief's widow, and three or four ojthcr elderly women came out of the houfewith (lQw,and(blemnpacc|^d9 feating them* rXoc n tot do,; nopcriy. rakakooa 4 Hoar* From out h6 place, iflemblcd the boofe iC women, omcD liad and tlieir sen leaves^ it one cor- Ere placed, picks, who Hcncci^we ed in the hat k re* lilaying company le, accoiH*' md body, lut them'' Id fitting, * motion, le mufic, Ltinue,at T having fre fpread lowj and ,t of the ig them* fplvqj ; :To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. io6^ felvea before thecompiany, began to moan mbftbit" terly» in which they were joined by the three rowi of womeil behind them ; the two ikien appealing melancholy andpeniiv^. They continued t^us, with little variation^ till kte in the evening, when we left them ; and, at day*Hght, in the morning, the people were difperied9 and every thing appeared perfe^y quiet. We were then given to underi^and, that .the body was removed ; but we could not learA how it wa^ difpofed. of. While we were direAiog our enquiries to this objed, we werraddre&d by three women of ranki who fignified to us, that our prefence incerrupttd the performance t)f fomejio- ceflary rites. Soonaftei* we had left them, we heatd their cries and lanienitations ; and, when vre met them a few boilrs afterwards, the lower ^arts ot their faces were painked perfe^y black. We had alfo an opportunity of obferving the ceremonies at the funeral of one of : the ordinary cla&. Hearing fome mournfiii. cries, ifluing from a miferable hut^ we entered it, and i^icovered two women, whom we fuppofed tO; be taother and dfiiigfater^ weepingf over the body of a man who had- tlial jnompent ex^ pired. They firft covered the body with doth: then lying down by at, they ipread the doth over themfdves, beginning a melancholy kiad of folig, znd repieating frequently Aweh medoaah! Awdi tanee! Oh my father! Oh my hufi>andl In one comer' of the hut a younger daughter lay profbate on the ground, having fome black cloth fpread over her, and repeating the fame expreffions. On our auitting this mdanchdy fcene, we found many of ^cir ndghbours colleaed together at the door, whojwcieall perfedtiy iilent, and attentive to their lamentations. Mr. King was willing to have embraced this op* portunity of knowing in what manner the body 'WQtild be difpofed of; and therefore, after being convinced that it was not removed dU after he went ^ > to ibfo Cook's third and last Voyage tb* bed, he ordered the fei^tric^ to walk before the houfe, and if there were any^ appearances- of re- moving the body, to acquaint him with it. The lentries^ however, were remifs in the performance of their duty, for, before the morning, the body "was .(aken away. On alking, ' how it had been dif- fiofed of, they pointed towards the fea, perhaps jfaereby indicating, that it had been depofited in the deep, or that it had been conveyed to fome Imrying-^ound beyond the bay. The place ^f in- terment ior the chiefs, isthemortii, or heree erees, 'snd ' thofe iwho are facrificed on the occafion, are buried by the fide of them; The morai in which Ihe chief was interred, who, after a fpirited re<- iiftance, had been killed in ithcxave, is adorned \vith a lianging of red cloth roundit. . Having thus laid before our readers a circumftantial and com- prehenfive account of the whole group of the Sand** Ttirich Iflands; we proceed to relate the tranfa£^ions; incidenits and events, during our fecond expedition to'^he north, by the. way of Kamtfchatka, and )otk our return home, by the^way of Canton, and the * Cape 'of Good Hope,< from March 1779^' to 'Atlgirft 1 7 9ov But it may not' be amifs to >clof<; thts'cbaptery^ with.an abftra^ of the afixdnomi- cal obfervaln^ns, which were made at .the ob- dfervatory< in'iCarakakooa Bay, for determining its iatttude andvlongitude ; to! which we fhall add the latitude and'iongitude of ..the '.Sandwich Hlands, colledte^ i^to one point of view. The latitude of the obferv^tofy, deduced from meridian zenith difianoes 'of the fun, and fome particular ftars^' we found to' be. 19 deg. 2 8.min. 2 I? e t 4 48 24 55 27 B 4S 9 20 52 3 that, upon returning to the tropical cllmit^, their fur jackets, and the reft pfjkeir clothes, aoapted to a cold country, were kicked about the decl^>^ things, .Qf_BO value > though it was known in, .both flups, tJb|Pt^'« were to make another voyage Jtbwards tl\^, ii.(» * .t ,To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2075 pole. They were, of courfe, picked up by the officers ; and, being put into caiks, reftored about this time to the owners. In the afternoon of Wed- nefday, the 7th, we obferved fome of the iheathinp; floating by the ihip ; and, on examination, found that 12 or 14 feet had been waflied off from under the larboard-bow, where the leak was fuppofed to have been ; which, ever fince leaving the Sandwich Iflands, had kept our people almolt conftantly at the pumps, making 1 2 inches water in an hour ; but, as we had always been able to keep it under with the hand-pumps, it gave us no great unea(i- nefs, till Tuefday, the 1 3th, when, about fix o'clock, P. M. we were greatly alarmed by a fudden inun* dation, that deluged the whole fpace between decks. The water which had lodged in the coal-hole, not finding a fuflicient vent into the well, had forced up the platforms over it, and in a moment fet every thing afloat. Our iituation was now exceedingly diftrefling ; nor did we perceive immedij^tely any means of relief. At lail we thought of cutting a hole through the bulk- head tha^ feparated the coal- hole from the fore-hold, and, by that means, to make a paflage for the body of water into ths well. As foon as a paflage was made, the ereateft part of the water emptied itfelf into the well, and enabled us to get out the reil in buckets : but the leak was now fo much increafed, that we wero obliged to keep one half of our people pumping and baling conftantly, till the noon of Thurfday, the 15th; Our men bore, with great chearfulnefs, this excef- five fatigue, which was much increafed by their having no dry ^lace to fleep in ; on which account they had their fiill allowance of grog. On Thurf> day, the 22nd, the cold was exceedingly fevere ; and the ropes were fo frozen, that it was with dif* ficulty they could be forced through the blocks. On Friday, the 23d, in latitude sa^^eg. 9 min. lonntude 16^ ^eg, j min. we &w mountains co- vJIq. 7^f ^- 12 Q vcrcd I ao74 Cook's third and last Voyaoe vered with Ihow, and a high conic?i1 rock, diftant about four leagues ; and foon after this imperfecl view we were enveloped in a thick fog. Accord- ing to our maps, we 'vere now but 8 leagues from the entrance of Awatfkn. Bay ; therefore when the weather cleared up, we ftood in to take a nearer furvey of the country. A moft difmal and dreary profpeft prefented itfelf. The coaft is ftraight, and uniform, without bays or inlets. From thefhore^ the ground rifes in moderate hills, and behind them are ranges of mountains, whofe fummits penetrate the clouds. The whole was covered with fuow, except the fides of fbme cliffs which rofe perpendi- cularly from the fea* The wind blew ftrong from the N. £. with hazy weather and fleet, from the 24th to the 2 8th. The fliip refembled a complete niafs of ice ; the ihrouds being fo incrufted with it, as to double their dimenfions in circumference :. in ihort, the experience of the oldeft feaman among us had never .:iet with fuch continued fliowers of fleet, and that extreme cold which we had now to encounter. Soon after our departure from Karakn- kooa Bay, Captain Gierke was taken ill, and during this run, the fea was in general fo rough, and the Hefolution fo leaky, that the fail-makers had no place to repair the fails in, except the captain's apartments, which in his declining ftate of health, was a ferious inconvenience to him. At this time the inclemency of the weather, the difficulty of working our (hips, and the inceilant duty required at the pumps, rendered the fervice intolerable to the crew, feme of whom were much froft bitten^ and others were confined with colds. Sunday, the 25th, wt were favoured with a tran* lient glance of the entrance of Awatlka Bay ^ but» in the prefent ftate of the weather^ we could not prefume to venture into it. For this reafon we again ftood off, when we loft ifight of the Difcovery j but this gave us little concerp^ being no\^ fo near e a nearer To THE Pacific .Ocean, &c. 2075 the place of rendezvous. Wednefday, the 28th, in the morning, the -weather cleared up, and we had a fine day, when our men were employed in takmg the ice from the rigging, fails, &c. that in ca(e of a thaw, which was now expe i» ii |i Tiiiui.ifi. Llj."u— L- isssii^ "^'( - ■,■■ '>^ ■ 7--,-, ^Mtt.^ w— ^ -^ r,' \ > l-<.*-.«Jf., ""''.p.,.. •h •< ) .\ V . < t) ,,■..-. ».. ibrt. drivci King conlec drove ecratic any cc we ftil thegr^ tance c ferved Toavo the in( Mr. W had bo the reaj foldiersj Within his men Iftnyloff to make had bro After an condu-W at* a» ■^ • *» 1 I i mi ' To tH£ Pacific Ocean, &c. 2077 fort. But inftead of coining to our relief^ the driver ftopt fhort, and called out to us. Captain King imrnddiatdy held up Ifmyloff's letters; in conlequence of which, the man turned about, and drove full fpeed back again, followed with the ex* ecrations of fome of our party. Unable to draw any conclufion from this unaccountable behaviour, we ftill proceeded towards the oftrog, though with the greateft circumfpe^on ; and, when at the dif^ tance of about a quarter of a mile from it, we ob- ferved a body of armed men advancing to meet us. To avoid giving them any alarm, and to preferve the mod peaceable appearance, the captain, and Mr. Webber, marched in front, and the men, who had boat-hooks in their hands, were Rationed in the rear. The armed party confifled of about 30 foldiers, headed by a perfon with a cane in his hand. Within a few paces of us he halted, and drew up his men in martial order. Captain King prefented Ifmyloff's letters to him, but in vain endeavoured to make him underftand that we were Englifh, and had brought thefe difpatches from Oonalafhka. After an attentive examination of our perfo^is. He conduded us towards the village in folemn filence, halting frequently his men, and ordering them to perform different parts of their manual exercife ; with a view, as we fuppofed, to convince us, that if we fhould prelume to offer any violence, we fhould have to deal with thofe who knew how to defend themfelves. During the whole of this time, the captain was in his wet clothes, fhivering -with cold ; yet he could not avoid being diverted with this military parade, though it was attended by an unfeafonabie delay. Arriving, at length, at the liabitation of the commanding officer of the party, we were uihered in ; and, after giving or- ders to the military without doors, our hoft ap- peared, accompanied by the fecretary of the port.. Qne of the letters from Ifmyloff was now opened, 3 * and % i-:-'. '■ 2078 Cook's tuiro and last Voyage and the other fent exprefs to Bolcheretfk, a town on the wefl: lide of Kamtfchatka, and the place of reHdence of the Ruffian commander of this pro- vince. It appeared to us extraordinary, that the natives had not feen the Kefolution the preceding day when we caft anchor, nor this morning, till our boats approached the ice. The firft fight of the fhip, we underilood, had ilruck them with a confiderabie panic. The garrifon was put inftantly under arms ; two field-pieces were placed before the commander's houfe; and powder, fliot, and lighted matches, were all in readinefs. The officer who had con- duced .us to his dwelling, was a ferjeant, and alfo the commander of the oftrog. After he had reco- vered from the alarm which our arrival had pro- duced, the kindnefs and hofpitality of his behavi- our was aftonifhing. His houfe, indeed, was in- tolerably hot, but remarkably neat and clean. After Captain King had changed his clothes, by putting on a compleat fuit of the feneant's, at his earned requeft, which was doubtleis the beft he could procure ; and,, confidering our vifit was un- expected, was ingenioufly conduced. To have made foup and bouillie w^ould have required fome time ; iniiead therefore of this, we had fome cold beef iliced, with boiling water poured over it. The next ccurfe was a large roailed bird, the tafle of which was moft delicious, though we were unac- quainted with its fpecies. Having eaten a part of this, it was removed, and fifti was ferved up, dref- fcd in two different ways. Soon after which, the remainder of the bird appeared again in favoury and fweet pates. Our liquor Was what the Ruffians diflinguifh by the name of quafs, and was the moft indifferent part of our entertainment. The fer- jeant's wife ferved up feveral of the difhes, and was Bot permitted to fit down at table with us. Our repaft being finifhed, during which our converfa« tioa To THE PACrrro r» PACIFIC Ocean, &c. 2070 tion was limited fn d f l nal tokens of mutual refpla"?' ft"'' """"-P^rfo- p °"'; hoft the occafion of „I v''^ '" '*P'»m Probably Umyi^ff,^ Crs we h,H w'r'° """P^t. was not a perfo/i„ the place whT^ ^''"' =« fh«e other languages than thofe of H.^ "■"'"'lood any fa, we f.und it extremely difficnif J "^ '^'-nfchat- what he endeavoured to confi " ' '" comprehend %, fpent much t"me n ou?Z"""' '" "»• »^^ each other, the fun, of the f "teST "* "'"^"«»n<» c«ved appeared to be, tha? thn fii^'"" "" ^^ «- thole articles were tn k^ ^ ? ^^ ^"^s place v*^ Bolcheretft. That h^^T'S'' '" «'«' plent/al mand^ would rtad^^^tpSr* '".''"'-'»- wanted; but that, till he S^','^"* ^^at we tiierhe. nor anvof thJ .■ ^ '"s orders n.^1 on board the v^eS^l ^rbrr°"''* ?^« ^ «"« depart, and as Mr. Kini's ZL '^ '""= ^"'^ "» to he.had again recourfe to th^ ?i • "^^ ""' y« drv for his permiffion to ca^ thnf'"-'''"^.* •«=nevolen^* had borrowed of him^h''"^^ °" ^^'^ which h* complied witli. aSS^; flSrS"'^ '^''-'^ny dnyer, was inftantly provwf rf f^ '^ ^J* '^''g' and a ■ This mode of conveyance ,£. T^. °^ "or party! ■nent for the failorsTaSd A! '^«' ^'S^ wtertaZ more, when they found thatTl.rr' ""'Stted mil eonftrucUSrt^'ptpSlr'w'^ '''«'«Wrwel^ Se''l?^"S£S?Utl.te to 2o8o Cook's third and last Voyage to lighten the vefTel forward, and the carpenters proceeded to flop the leak which had occafioned us ib much trouble. In the middle of the day we had fuch warm weather, that the ice began to break away very faft, and almoft choaked up the entrance of the bay. Several of our officers waited upon the fcrjeant, who received them with great civility ; and Captain Clerke fent him a prefent of two bot- tles of rum, thinking he could not fend him any thing more acceptable. In return, he received twenty fine trouts, and Tome excellent fowls pf the groufe kind. Though the bay fwarmed with ducks and Greenland pigeons, our fportrmen had no fuc- cefs ; for, being exceedingly ihy, they could not kill any. On Saturday, the ift of May, in the morning, we faw our confort, the Difcovery, flanding into the bay : a boat was immediately difpatched to her afliflance, and fhe was moored in the afternoon clofe by the Refolution. On the 3d, in the morning, two fledges having been obferved to drive into the village, Mr. King was ordered on fhore, to learn whether an anfwerwas arrived from the commander of Kimtfchatka. The diflance from Bolcheretfk to St. Peter and St. Paul's is 135 Engliih miles. The difpatches were fent off in a fledge, drawn by dogs, on the 29th, at noon, and returned with an anfwer early this morning ; fo that they performed a journey of 270 miles in little more than three days and a half. For the prefent, the return of the commander's anfwer was concealed from us. While Mr. King was on fhore, his boat, and another be- longing to the Difcovery, were bound fafl to the ice. In this fituation, the Difcovery''^ launch was fent to their affiflance, which foon partook of the fame fate t but on the 4th, the floating ice was drifted away, by the wind changing, and the boats were fet at liberty, without fuftainmg the fmalleft damage. At i o o'clock, A. M* fe v:exaT fledges hvh\ ingl To TH« Pacific Ocsau p, ^ "JCBAW, &c, 2081 «ng arrived at the edec of tl>» • from the Aip to conduft ,i f '"l ' ''°^' «'»'' &"' o» board. One of thc^ '''°'^ ir^o were in them merchant from Bolcher^tdt f* /° '"=»«'»''!»■> dofitfch ; and the other a ^'''"''^ """»'= '^^s l^e- ^•th difpatehes from Maior n I!"'"' "'""^I ?"«. l^mtfchatka, to &MainWif'""''/°°"»»nder ol «dge of theiie. ^dkl?^t\,^'r'"'K at the of^he ftips, within ^o yVi o"f ?: ''"' °V'«°'"«"' exceedmgly alarmed • anHh-J '?* ™' '''«y were «nbarlc,*'4„Jj'^^^"d before they ventured to ftonld remain on Lre «Zn T '"'«''' "^w It afterwards appea^d ' for °^«" *?■■ "'"'• fafety- not conceive. Sw^fmvloff f"".'"'*^""' ^« '""W cfammander, had meS«i' '" t '*=""■ '° "-e Ijadmg veffels ; and th« ffc, r -^'P' ^^ ""^ Cnall them at a diftancronlv 1,!^ ''"■J**'"' ''a^ing feen take ^Yhen ?h%il^d',H "ot reaified t& mif" ceived, by then- tin^Aul -^ °" ''°a'"f^> we per- tatocd'foU'^^e ;"eidr„"'"' ""^ "'^ en?e;. However, an unpomm^n def^^f^, apprehcnfions. vifiWe in: their countenancf ? '^''?'^'^'°'' was Jound a. perfon among us wi/. it" ?= German fr '"to converfation. V iJ^tr H """^'^ «n- hnguage fluentiv an^ ™r-. Webber fpoke that ^\ ,v,Shout dfcy thatTf '' "■=?' "-oS and friends. Mr. vZl 4as i„Trn^'■^^''^"'^■n« %ke to whom he deWed °t"'' '° ^'P''''" «"er- It was written in thrr!?n,.''°'"'"»''der's ""^rely ccnplimental. civin^h™'"K"S°''g«.and afmvUatio„*toBoIcherft&^n5'V°'''«^°ffi«rs • • t'«e, acquainted himTt?utth«t-^r'"''>= fame a very ifrong idea o"' the fize J^Tk ^'^. '^°"'^' ved ^he^ftrvice they were engafed t%^n '^'^ °^ setter, havinff reDrefpn^Si^^ir ' "OiylofF, in hh J 2o82 Cook's third awd last Voyage at Bolcheretfk. We were much diverted with the fears and apprehenfions of thefe people; and efpe- daily yfith an account given by Mr. Port, of the ferjeant's extreme caution the day before. On fee- ing Mr. King and fome other gentlemen come on fhore, he concealed him :.ad the Kuflian merchant in the kitchen, to give them an opportunity of Kllening to our converfation with each other, in order to difcover whether we were Engliihmen or not. Beiiig now enabled, by the aid of an interpreter, to converfe with the Ruffians, our firft enouiries were dire£ted to the means of procuring a nipply of frefli provilionsand naval ftores ; particularly the fatter, for the want of which we had been in great diftrefs. On enquiry, it appeared, ^hat the whole ftock of live cattle, which the country about the bay could furnifh, amounted only to two heifers ; and thefe the feijeant very readily promi(ed to fc« cure for us. Our next applications were made to the merchant, whofe terms for ferving us were fo exorbitant, that Captain Clerke thought it expedi- ent to fend an exprefs to the conmiander, to learn the price of ftores at Bolcheretfk. This determi- nation being communicated to Mr. Port, he dif- patched a mefienger to the commander at Bolchc- retft, to acquaint him with our intentions, and to remove the fufpicions that had been entertained re- fpeAing the purpofcs of our voyage. For the above fervice Mr. King was fixed upon, and ordered to prepare for fetting out the next day, together with Mr. Webber, who was to accompany him as inter- preter. That day, and the next, however, the weather proved too ftormy for beginning a journey through fo defolate and wild ar country : but on Friday, the 7th of May, the weather became more favourable, and ne fetout in the fhip's boats, early in the morniiig, in order to reach the entrance •f the Awatlka at high-water, on account of the ihoals b a an an in^ cIg to Ab ter, foni fooi ianc up, Mft deep oust up t tion ( of A^ gradii ceede< niany into 01 on the firft K from t to the fcrvcs flat coi: fea, wii men \v poles, . 4nd pn about c dured t S^ly on( take a li • To THt Pacific Oct*v & w« been pwioufly ftTrnifti? '?? '^^»ff»'^ks. havw Alwut e«ht o'clock/ w"wl 1; T/"i'"« »«• ter. within a mUe of tKmh "/^Fk"' .y '^''»' *'»- feme foiall canoes, andconvLf^ °"r baggage, i„ find, which the rlpidit. "f T'^ "' ""^^ """kof upland which, wewereUo™!/'''*' '""'' ^^rown J'ft'ng. HavingpalTed hrZl* ^» <^<"«inuaily deepened, and v4CeS^fif",.SS'' f^^ »'«0- agaii ousboat. lefemblingaNor^^ "".""'"""""di- up the river, togAlrZrP^'^K'""'"''''^ »* fon of OCT bWa«Tfc .""?«• f"' the recep. e^dually narrowed as l,ZTZ °J ' S"'^' "ut ^ ceeded a few miles Zf l^^'^* Ha'"ng pro- ?»»yofwhich. weCet^u''' '^''?"' ''""'Ses. ■neo other parts'of th?bav?^'n-J?!.P"^'' "'*'»''«'^« on the left ran into the pL,' """^ '*"»« "^ tbofe M 10 miles, the leneralwT^?"^^'-- Forthe from the bay.'is to fhe N ,t^;°" °^ "" ^ver to the wett,^rd. Eweot tM^ k'^^'"!""'''* « ">™» fl« country, fo the *&„"„?"''' ""'""S'' * '<»^ fe«. which'^^s fubiea to frl °^ -3° ■""=» from the «■« were emS'°i/7„S«"ndations. Six poles, three of them hlf„i^ . "?"' °n »'th 'onff \nd proceeded a^fi ?^ ="«"='» «nd of the boat? about th,^ l:f ^^^^l"* ftream. at the ratei^ dured this fevere UoA ^'", '=°»''"'^o« en- I Karachin £o84 Cook's third akd last Voyage Karachin that night, we were greatly difappointed to find ourfelves 15 miles from that place at fuii-fet. This was attributed to the delay in pafling the Ihoals, both at the entrance of the river^ and in many other places. Our men been exceedingly fatigued, and as the difficulty of navigating the river would have encreafed by the darknefs of the night, we declined all thoughts of proceeding on our journey that evening : we therefore fixed upon a place that was tolerably well ilieltered, and, clearing it of the fnow, creAed a fmall marquee, which we had pro- videntially taken with us ; and, with the afiiftance of a good fire, and feme excellent punch, paffed the niglit agreeably. Our principal inconvenience was, the being obliged to keep at a confiderable dillance from the fire ; for as foon as it was lighted, it thawed every part round it into an abfoiute pud- dle. The Kamtfcadales were extremely alert and expeditious in eretting our marquee, and cooking our provifions; but we were much furprized at finding they had brought with them their utenfils for making tea, confidering it as a mod intolerable hardihip it they cannot, two or three times a day, regale themfelves with drinking tea. When day- light appeared, we proceeded on our journey,' and, before we had made much progrefs, were met by the Toion, or chief of Karachin, who, being ap- prized of our coming, had provided canoes that were better accommodated for navigating the higher parts of the river,, A commodious veflel, (made by lafhing two canoes together) fumiflied with fur . cloaks, and lined with bear-ilkins, was alfo procured for us. We now proceeded rapidly, the Toion's people being remarkably expert in this kind rf bu- iinefs. At ten we arrived at the oftrog, named Karachin, and the feat of his command, where we w ere received by the Kamtfcadale men and women, and fome Ruflian fervants belonging to the mer- chant, Fedofitfch. They were all attired in their iV To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2085 jrf bu- Inamed lerc we ^omen, ic mer- (n their beft habiliments ; thofe of the women being gay and pleating, and con^fting of a loofe robe of white nankeen, gathered dole round the neck, and faf- tened with a filk collar. A fhort jacket, without fleeves, was worn over this, confiding of different coloured nankeens ; and they had petticoats made of a flight Chinefe filk. Their fhifts, which were alfo made of filk, had fleeves extending to the wrifts ; and their heads were bound with coloured filk handkerchiefs, which entirely concealed the hair of the married women ; but the unmarried ones placed the handkerchief under the hair, permitting it to flow loofely down the fhoulders. The oflrog of Karachin is pleafantly fituated on the fide of the river, and compofed of three log- houfes, nineteen balagans, or fummer habitations, and three jourts, which are houfes under ground. The Toion, to whofe dwelling we were then con- ducted, was a plain decent man, fprung from a RufTian mother, and a Kamtfcadale father. His houfe, like all others in this country, confifled of only two apartments. All the furniture in the outer room, was a long narrow table, with a bench round it ; and the inner apartment, which was the kitchen, was alfo very fcantily furnifhed. But, the hearty welcome, and kind attention of our hofl:, amply compcnfated for the poverty of his habitation. His wife, an excellent cook, ferved us with various forts of fifh and game, and different kinds of heath- '' berries, which had been preferved fince the lafl yean .Whilft we were dining in this miferable hut, the guefts of abfolute ftrangers, and at the extremity of » the habitable globe, a folitary half- worn pewter fpoon attradled our attention. Its form was familiar to us, and the word London was ftampedupon the back of it. It is impoflible to exprefs the anxious hopes, and tender remembrances, this circumflance excited in us. Thofe who have been long abfent from their ■ .. ■ ;^« *-»- v.««^,- v«f •! .. ^ native >«u •• t I I ^8^ Cook's third and lait Voyage native country, will readily conceive what inex- preilible pleafure fuch trifling incidents can give. We had now quitted the river, and the next part of our journey was to be performed on fledges; but the thaw had been fo great in the day-time, as i^ to permit us to fet out, till the fnow was become hard and firm by the coldnefs of the evening. This furniflied us with an opportunity of walking about the village, which was the only place in this coun- try, that we had feen free from fnow. It was fitu- ated on a flat, of about a mile and an half in circuit. The leaves of the trees were juft budding, and the verdure was ftrongly contrafted with the furround- ing hills, which remained covered with fnow. The foil appearing to be capable of producing common vegetables, we werefurprized to find that not afpot of it was cultivated. Neither were the inhabitants .poflefled of cattle of any fort. In fliort, their fitu- ation, during the winter months, muft be wretched beyond conception. They were now removing from their jourts to their balagans, which gave us an opportunity of obferving both thefe forts of ha- bitations. The people invited us, very civilly, into their houfes ; chearfulnefs and content were vifible in every countenance, to which the approaching change of feafon might perhaps contribute. On )r4:turning to our hoft^s, fupper was prepared for us, .^onfifting of the fame articles which compofed our former repafl. When we. had finiflied our meal, ,we entertained the Toion and his wife with punch made of fome of our fpirits *, and Captain Gore, with his wonted generofity, made them fome valuable prefents : after which, they retired to the kitchen, leaving us in the other room ; on the benches of which we fpread our bear-(kins, and fought a little ropofe ; having firft fettled with our conduflors, to. proceed on our journey, when the ground was judged to be in a fuitable condition. The melaa- •<:holy bowlings of the dogs awakened us about nine .-JE- 'W!'5TI>1 lliT ii m€ 1% II'. ii'-^**''i '^*i -v ii:i ■'!f^i;. Ti^i 1 the fa nolle c prepare which fiiall hi of a flee in the f of the b breadth fccnt, o wicker i «Iegantl3 covered about tv pieces of extending each end, ftait, and The carri taflefe of ias a cro/j links of i which, by do^. Tl a time, w part of th fions in a of dogs en four of th( afting as le collar, infl niand : anc "f«Jge; the obedience ^''c confeqi ^hich freqi °f his ftca( roubles (or To THE Pacific OcE AW, &c. 26%^ ihc fame evening. During the whole time pitr baggage was hi9iing upon the fledges, their horrid nolle continued ; but, when they were yoked, and prepared for travelling, a chearful yelping fucceeded, which ceafed the inftant they march«i off. We {hall here give our readers an accurate defcription of a fledge brought over by Captain King, and now in the poflfeflion of Sir Afliton Lever. The length of the body is about four feet and an half, and the breadth one foot. It is made in the form of a crc^ icent, of light tough wood, faftened together with wicker work; and, among the princip^u people, is elegantly ftained with red and blue ; the feat being covered with furs or bear-ikins. It has /our IcgSi about two feet tn height, refting on two long flat pieces of wood, of the breadth of five or fix inches, extending a foot beyond the body of the fledge, it each end. Thefe turn up before, foinewhat like a Ikait, and arefliod with the bone of fome fea-animal. The carriage is ornamented, at the fore-part, with taflels of coloured cloth, and leather thongs. It has a crofs-bar, to which the harnefs is joined ; and links of iron, or fmall bells, are hanging to it, which, by the 'mgling, is fuppofed to encourage the do^. They leidom carry more than one perfon at a time^ who fits afide, with his feet on the lower part of the fledge, having his baggage and provi- fions in a bundle behind him. The ufual number of dogs employed in drawing this carriage, is five ; four of them yoked two and two, and the other ading as leader. The reins, being faflened to the collar, inflead of the head, have no great com* mand : and are therefore uf^, .ally hung upon the fledge ; the driver depending principally on their obedience to his voice. Great care and attention U'c confequently ufed in training'^ up the leader, which frequently becomes very, valuable on account of his fteadinefs and docility ; the fum of forty roubles (or ten pounds) being no unufual price for g one '■ } 2^88 Cook's third and last Voyage one of them. The rider has alfo a crooked ftick, anfwering the purpofe both ot whip and reins -, with which, by driking in the fnow, he.can regulate the fpeed of tixe dogs, or even fiop them at his plea- fure. When they are inattentive to thek duty, he often chaftifes them by throwing it at them. The dexterity of the riders, in picking this ftick up again, is very remarkable, and is the mo(l difficult ma- noeuvre in the exercife of their profeilion : nor is it, indeed, furprifing that they fhould be ikilful in a praclipe in which they are To inaterially interefted; for, they aiTured us, that if a driver fhould happen to lofe his ftick, the dogs immediately difcover it ; and, unlefs their leader is both ^eady and refolute, they will inftantly fetofi* full fpeed^ and never ftop till their ftrength is exhaufted ; or till the carriage is overturned and daihed to pieces, 9r hurried down a precipice, when'all are buried in the fnow. The accounts of the fpeed of theCe animals, and of the hardftiips and fatigues they fufter, would have ap- peared incredible, had they not been fupported by. the greateft authority. We ourfelves were witneiTes of the extraordinary expedition with which the meiTenger returned, who had been difpatched. to. Bolcheretfk with the news of our arrival at St. Feter and St. Paul's, though the fnow was exceed- ingly loft. The governor of Kamtfchatka alTured us, that this journey was ufually performed in two days and a half; and that he had once received an exprefs from that harbour in 2 5 liours. Through- out the winter, the dogs are fed ontheoifals of dried and {linking f|fh ; and, even this miferablc food is withheld from them, a day before they fet out on a journey ; and they are not permitted to eat a uior- fel of any thing till they arrive at the end of it. They are frequently kept fafting for two entire days, in which time they will perforni a journey of great extent. The ftiape of thefc dogs refembles that of the pre £dei ceffii ^•ith King wasl Jiuali his cc in the wasf( tifuJJy drawn which by the than rain, . night, fome lit ;n-: To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 208]^ the Pomeranian breed, but they are confiderably larger. As we did not chufe to rely upon our own Ikill, we had each of us a man to conduA the fledge, which^ in the condition the roads then were, proved a very laJaorious bufinefs : for, as the thaw had been prevalent in the vsl-'cs, through which was our regular road, we '. V'iged to travel along the fides of the hills; ^u Ides being under the nc'* ceffity of fupporting the liedges, on the lower fides, with their ihoulders, for many miles together. Mr. King was attended by a good natured Coffack, who was fo imperfed in his bufinefs, that he was conti- nually overturned, which afforded entertainment to his companions. The party confided of ten fledges in the whole. That which conduced Captain Gore, was formed of two laflied together, and was plen* tifuliy furniflied with furs and bear-lkins. It was drawn by ten dogs, yoked four abreafl ; and thofe which were laded with heavy baggage, were drawn by the fame number. We had not proceeded more than four miles on our journey, when it began to rain, which, together with the darknefs of the night, threw us into fome confufion. It was, after feme little confultation, agreed, that we fliould con- t inue where we were, till day-light : we therefore fecured our fledges, wrapped ourfelves up in furs, and waited patiently for the morning. At three o'clock we were fummoned to proceed ; our guides exprefling their apprehenfions, that if we waited any longer, the thaw would perhaps flop us, and prevent our advancing or returning. Though we had manydifiicultiesto encounter, owing principally to the bad condition of the road, we got fafe to an oftrog about two in the afternoon. It is called Natcheekin, and is fituated on a fmall ftream, which falls into the Bolchoireka, at fome diftance below ^he town. It is 25 miles from Karatchin; which, by their account, we could have coropafied in four No. 76. X2 I hours. 1090 Cook's thtrd and last Voyage hours, had the froft continued ; but the fnow was io i'oft that the poor animals funk up to their bellies at ahno(t every itep ; and it was indeed furprizing that they fhould be able tofupport themfelves under fo fatiguing a journey. This inconiiderable oftrog confifts of one log-houfe, the reiidence of theToion, one jourt, and five balagans. We were received here with the fame civility and hofpitality as at Ka- latchin ; and, in the afternoon, were condu6^ed to a remarkable hot fpring, at a fmaU difVance from this village. Before we came very near it, we faw a fleam rifing from it, as from a boiling caldron ; and, when we approached it, we perceived a ftrong iulphureous effluvia. A bafon of about three feet in diameter, is formed by the main fpring; befides which, there are feveral leffer fprings, of equal heat, in the adjacent ground ; by which means the whole fpot, confifting of about an acre, was fo very hot that we could not remain two minutes in tie fame place. The water ifl'uing from thefe fprings, fupplies a fmall bathing pond, and afterwards a lit* tie rivulet, which conducts it into the river, at the diftance of about 150 yards. Great cures, they informed us, had been efFedted by this bath, in rheumatifms, fcorhutic ulcers, fwelled and con- trafted joints, and many other diforders. Where thefe fprings flow, the ground is on a gentle afcent ; having a green hill of a moderate iize behind it. Some plants feemed to thrive here with great luxu- riance, among which we obferved the wild garlick. . Monday, the loth, in the morning, we embarked on the Bolchoireeka ; and, going with the ftream, expeded to arrive at our journey's end the follow- ing day. Though Bolcheretlk is 80 miles from Natcheekin, we were informed, that, in the fum" mer, when the melting of fnow on the mountains has rendered the river full and rapid, the canoes have often gone there in a fingle day : but now they told us we fhould be much longer^ the ice having . . brokep brok our's Ther for w thou| frequ< der tl On ea tic, bi tween barren cept n( of wile flept ui ver, an weathei Wed] the moi cxtenfiv by trees oftrog, ( tude as from N; foldiers arrival ; Bolchere A magni &ins and We were feJlow-tra concern t Mr. Port as we dre ney. He owt, that J '^ewn him filming, w throughou fflailndef ' To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2091 ^ broken up only three days before our arrival, and our's being the firft boat that had attempted to pafs. There was but too much truth in this intelligence ; for we were greatly impeded by the fhallows ; and, though the liream was rapid in many places, we frequently had ripplings and flioals, and were un- der the necefiity of hauling the boats over them. .. On each fide of the river, the country was roman- tic, but not diverfified ^ the courfe of it being be- tween craggy mountains, of a moft dreary and barren afpea; with nothing to vary the fcene, exr cept now and then the fight of a bear, or a flock of wild-fowl. This, and the following night, we ilept under our marquee, on the banks of the ri- ver, and fulTered greatly from the feverity of the weather. Wedrtefday the 12 th, at day-light, we had pafled the mountains, and were proceeding through a low extenfive plain, on which were a number of fhrub- by trees. At nine in the morning, we reached an oftrog, called Opatchin, of about the fame magni- tude as Karatchin, and fuppofed to be 50 miles from Natcheekin. A ferjeant and four Ruffian , foldiers had been here two days, waiting for our arrival; who inftantly difpatchcd a light boat to Bolcheretfk to give intelligence of our approach. A magnificent canoe, plentifully furnifhed with fkins and furs, was prepared for our reception, and we were very commodioufly equipped ; but our fellow-travellers were excluded. It gave us fome - concern to be feparated from our old companion Mr. Port, who daily grew more fhy and diftant, as we drew nearer to the completion of our jour- ney. He acknowledged, indeed, before we fet out, that he Was not entitled to the refpedl we had ftiewnhim; but, finding him difcreet, and not pre- fuming, we had infifted on his faring as we did, throughout the journey. We performed the re- maiader of our paiTage, with the uCmoft eafe and 1 2 I 2 expedition ; 109^ .C'O^k'^s third and last Voyage expedition ; for as we defcended, the river grew more rapid, and had very few obftructions. On our approaching Kamtfchatka, we judged, from an appearance of great ilir and buftle, that our recep- tion was to be in form. This circumftance was difagreeable to us, as decent cloathing had long been fcarce among us ; and our travelling habits formed a ftrange aflemblage of the ir«odes of India, Europe and Kamtfchatka. To make a parade through the metropolis in this motley trim, we thought would appear ridiculous ; and, as we ob- served a crowd of people collected on the banks of the river, and were informed that the commander would receive us at the waterriide, we {lopped at the houfe of a foldier, about a quarter of a mile before we came to the town. Here we difpatched 5Vlr. Port with a meflage to his excel icy, acquaint' Sng him, that, as foon as we had put oft' our travel- ling dreffes, we would attend him at his own houfe to pay our refpefts to him ; and entreated him not to think of waiting to conduft us. He perfiftcd, however, in his refolution of paying us this com- pliment, and we immediately proceeded to join him at the entrance of the capital. We were all re- jmarkably aukward and defective in making our firft falutations ; not having be^n accudomed to bowing and fcilaping, for at leaft two years and an half. The commander received us in a moft en- gaging manner ; but we had the mortification to dilcovcr, that he had almoll wholly forgot the French language j fo that only Mr. Webber had the fatisfadion of converfing with him, as he fppke the German, which was his native tongue. Major Behm was accompanied by Captain Shmaleff, the next in command, and another officer; the whole body of merchants attended alfo. We were con- ducted to the commander's houle, where we were politely and rcfpedlfuUy received by his lady, who nad prepared tea and other refreihments for ^s. The > ' 4 H To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2093 firft compliments being over. Captain Gore defired Mr. Webber to acquaint the Major, that we were diftrefled for want of naval ftores, freOi provifions, flour, and other neceflaries ; and that we were con- vinced we could not receive much aiUftance from him, in the country about A watika Bay, from what we had already feen and heard ; that the impoflibility of conveying heavy (lores over the peninfula, at that feafon, we were but too fenfible of, from the difficulties we had encountered in our journey ; and that we could not delay the profecution of our voyage, to wait for any material change. Here the Major interrupted Mr. 'V^ebber, by obferving, that we knew not what they were capable of doing ; that he ihould not beftow a thought upon the dif- ficulties of fupplying our wants : he only wiihed to know what articles we Aood in need of, and the time he could be allowed for procuring them. After exprefling our acknowledgments for his obliging condeicenfion, we prefented him an ac- count of the naval (lores, cattle, and flour, we were direded to purchafe ; and informed him, that we intended to profecute our voyage about the 5th of June. After this, the converfation became more gener^, and it might naturally be fuppofed, that we were anxious to obtain fome information re* fpeding our native country. Having been three years abfent, we entertained the moft flattering ex» pedtations, of receiving fome interefting intelligence from Major Behm: but we were greatly difap- pointed, when he a(rured us, that he could not communicate any intelligence of a much later date than that of our quitting England. The com-^ mander, fuppoiing we might be fatigued, and de- iirous of repofe, begged leave to conduct us to our lodgings, at about (even o'clock. It was ufelefs to proteft againft a compliment, to which we had no other title than that of being ftrangers. That alone, }yith this generom livomaOy was fufficient to coun* terbalauce *ul' 2094 Cook's third and last Voyagb terbalance every other confideration. In going along, we palled two guard-houlcs, where the men were under arms, in compliment to Captain Gore, and were condudred to a neat decent houfc, which the Major had appointed for our refi- dence, while we continued at Kamtfchatka. We had two fentinels pofted at our door, and a fer- jeant's guard in an adjoining houfe. Having dif- poled of us in our apartments, the Major took his leave, promifing to vifit us the next day. We were now at leifure to difcover the conveniencies which he had amply provided for us. Our fellow traveller. Mr. Port, and a foldier, of a rank be- tween tnat of a ferjeant and a corporal, (called a pulproperfckack) were fixed upon to be our male domeilics. We had alfo a houfekeeper, and a cook, who were ordered to obey Mr. Port's directions in dreiUng us a fupper, after the Englifh mode of cookery. In the courfe of the evening, we were favoured with a number of civil meffages, from the principal inhabitants of the town, politely obfcrvi ing, that their attending to pay their refpefts to us at that time, would add to our fatigues, but they would do themfelves that honour the next morning; Such attention and politenefs, in fo uncultivated and defolate a country, formed a c<^ntraft highly in favour of its inhabitants \ and, in addition to their civility, at fun-fet, the ferjeant brought the report of his guard to Captain Gore. In the morn- ing of the i^ch, compliments were fent us by the Major, Captain ShmalefF, and the moil refpe&able people of the town, from all whom we were honoured with vifitp foon after. The two former having, after we had retired to reft, enquired of Mr. Port what articles we Hood in the greateft need of on board the fhips ; they infifted on our (baring with their garrifon, in the fmall ftock of provifions they had then remaining ; lamenting, at the fame time, that our arrival ihould happen tp be in that feafoit > of , . To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. '^0^5 ef the year, ^hen fcarcity reigned univerfaliy among them ; the floops from Okotik not being yet arrived with their annual Aipply. VJe thank- fully accepted the liberal offer of tbefe hofpitable Grangers; on condition, however, that we ihould be made acquainted with the price of the articles we received from them, that Captain Gierke might draw upon the Victualling Office, in London, for the amount. . This was refufed in the moft po- iitive terms; and, though repeatedly urged, the Major always flopped us Siort, by faying, that his niiftrefs would be highly gratified at his rendering every affiflance in his power to the Englifh, who are her good friends and allies ; and that it would give her a peculiar fatisfadion to find, that, in fuch remote regions, her dominions had afforded any relief to veffels engaged in fuch important fer- vices. He added, that he could not, therefore, ad fo contrary to ^he principles of his Emprefs, as to think of receiving any bills ; but, if we infified on ki we might give him a bare certificate of the articles he might fupply us with, which he would tranfmit to the court of Rufiia, as evidence of having performed his duty. Ail farther acknow- ledgments, continued he, mud be fubmitted to the two courts ; but you mufi excufe me from acceding to your propofal. This matter being adjufted, he rcquefled to be informed refpefting our private wants, faying he ihould confider it as offering him an affront, if we applied to any of the merchants, or had dealings with 2^ny other perf m except himfelf. Not having it in our power to make an adequate return for fuch Angular generofity, he had only our thanks and admiration. At this moment, Mr. King recollected, that Captain Clerke had fent by him a. fct of the engravings, to Captain Xopk's fecond voyage, defiring him to prefent it, in his name, to the commander. Nothing could have been more ftucptable to him than this prefent,^ the Major bet 209^ Cook's third and last Voyagb ing an enthufiaft in all matters relative to dtfcovc-* ries. Captain Gierke had alfo given Mr. King a difcretionary power, of permitting the commander to fee a chart of the difcoveries made in the prcfent voyage y and, judging from his fituation and dif- poHtion of mind, that he would be highly gratified lr» fuch a communication ; though, from motives of delicacy, he had only afked a few general quef- tions on the fubject, Mr. King repofed in him that confidence, which his whole condu<5l fo juftly me- rited. He felt this compliment as it was intended lie fliould, and was ftruck at beholding, in one view, the whole of that coaft on the lide of Afia and Air^.nci. which his countrvmen had been fo long employed in acquiring an imperfed: knowledge of. Except this mark of confidence, and the fet of copper-plates already mentioned, we had nothing with us deferving of his acceptance ; for it way hardly worth noticing, that Mr. King prevailed ott his fon (who was quite a youth) to accept of a filver watch ; and contributed to his little daughter's happinefs, by prefenting her with two pair of ear- rings, of French pafte. He alfo gave Captain Shma- leff the thermometer which he bad iifed on his journey, when he engaged to keep a regifter of the temperature of the air for one whole year, and to tranfmit it to Mr. MiiUer, with whom he was ac- q\iainted. This day we dined at the commander's, who, ever ftudious to gratify our curiofity, had prepared variety of difhes dreffed after the Ruffian, and Kamtfchadale manner, befides a number of others in the EngliQi ftyle. In the afternoon, we took a fufvey of the town, and the adjacent coun- try. The fituati(Mi of Bolcheretlk is in a loW Awampy plain, extendingtothe fea of Okotlk, be- ing about 40 miles in length, and of a confiderable breadth, it lies tlorth of the Bolchoi-reka, (or great river) and on a pcninfula, which has been fe- pafated from the continent by a large canal, under . ■ ;hc inga mder rcfent d dif. itified otivcs quef- n that ]y mc- tended in one 3f Afia been fo (wlcdge [ the fet nothing ■ it was ailed on ■afilvef ughter'9 • of ear- n Shtna- on his er of the and to was ac- jander's, fity, had e Ruffian fmber o^ lOon, we nt coi^n- In a loW lotfk, he- ifiderable •eka, {pt 5 been fe- [al, upder (he m liiijt*^' "'1 ^ «■>■(!' :f mmmrm : 'Jf^ jMT;-***" "*■«' < f^- ■ ■!•■(» »<(»i9I..U« ■aft'^s. « 'A / / To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2b^i die direAions of the prefent commander ; which has added Hrength to it as a fortrefs, and rendered 'Ul much lefs fubje^ to inundations. The depth of the river, below the town, is from fix to eight feet, and the breadth about a quarter of a mile. At th6 diftance of 22 miles, it empties itfelf into the Tea of Okotfk, where it is capable of admitting pretty- large veflels. No corn, of any kind, is cultivated in this part of the country ; and the Major aflured us, that his was the only garden that had beea planted. In general, the earth was covered with fnow ; the parts which were free from it, were full of black turfy hillocks. We faw about 20 or 30 cows, and the commander had fix good horfes. Thefe, and their dogs, are their only tame animals ; being obliged to keep a greU number of the Utter, they can rear only fuch cattle as are a match for them in ftrength and fize. For, during the whole of the fummer feafon, the dogs are tarned loofe, to provide entirely for tTiemfetves ; and are fome* times fo ravenous, that they Will even venture to attack ihe bullocks. In Bolcheretlk the buildings are aU in the fame ftyle * they confift of logs of wood, and are thatched. The Major's houfe is con- iiderably larger than the reft, and has three capaci- ous rooms, neatly papered ; but the talc, which covered the windows, gave them a difagreeable and mean appearance. The town con lifts of low build- ings, in rows of fiv6 or fix habitations each, con- nected together by a pafiage extending the whole length of them ; haying the kitchen and ftore- houfe on one fide, ai^ tne dwelling apartments on the other. There are alfo barracks for the Rufiian foldiers and coifacks, a tolerable church, a court- room; and, at the end of the town, a num- ber of bahgans. The number of the inhabitants is between five and fix hundred. A handfome enter- tainment was given by the Major, in tihl^ ^yening^, (0 which were iqvited all the reipectable Inhabitants No. 77. .12 IC of 30^8 Cook's third and last Voyage of both fexes. The next day we made a private application to Fedofitfch, the merchant, in order to purchafeVome tobacco ; the failors having been without that favourite commodity for upwards of a year. This, however, like other fimilar tranf- actions, came immediately to the l^nowledge of the commander ; and, in a very fliort time after, we were furprized to find four bags of tobacco in our houfe, each containing upwards of i oo pounds ; which the Major requefted might be prefentcd to our faiiOrs, in his name, and that of the garrifon under his command. By the fame conveyance, >ve received 20 loaves of fugar, and as many pounds of tea, which they requefted the officers to dccept of; as they^underftood that we were almoft deiftitute of thofe articles. A prefent was alfo fent by Madame Behm, for Captain Gierke, which confifted of honey, butter, figs, rice, and other articles ; ac: companied with her beft wiihes, that, in his infirm ftate, they might prove feryiceable to him. We ftrcnuoufly endeavoured to oppofe this profufion of bounty, and were extremely anxious to reftrain it ; fully convinced that they were giving us almoft the whole ftock of their garrifon. But the anfwer wq received from the Major, on thefe occafions, gene- rallywas. That he had been in diftrefs himfelf, and he was fenfible that we muft now be in that ijtua- tion. The length of time, indeed, fince we had touched at any known port, appeared to them almoft incredible, and feemed to require the evidence of our maps, and other concurrent circumftances, to o|)- tain their credit. Among the iatter, we ihall men- tion a curious fa6, which Major Behm related to us this morning, and which he faid he fiiould not have known how to account for, but for our arri- val. Among the people of the north of Afia., it is well known, that the Tfchutiki only have inain> tained their independence, and refifted all the efforts of the Ruffians to reduce them. The laft attempt was ' To THE Pacific Oceaw /!,. - • " __ . "CEAM, Sec. 4000 '^ 'n 1 750, and, after varietv nf . wntages on each lide the b"^'^ °i temporary ad- "fter having loft their rn J? "°/°«« retreited, Ruffians aftfrwards remSh".^"J« °^"^- The from the Anadyr to th^lJ!- "^ f^ntier fortrefs, into the northern eVtreJ^S'S'/ \"^er which runs fd gives its name to a ZlL"*^ ""J? ''=» °f Okotik. ftinfi. On thedavof^ P'''3^**°fthatofPen. tl.e Major had rSved^SIfcaT^' V^°'=''=-*. acquainting him, that a Jif ?''? *'°"' '^s fort, arrived th?re, v^ith voinm^ °^S"' ^'"'^'•nt&i had and a tribute. That 1 fr?'' "'t'" ^^ friendfliip «peaed an alterarion in t& '?■' ''"''= "^ ^^ ""^ acquainted his people thi ?„ P'""™'^' th^yhad had vifited theCiowaSftM''^;?"'^^ boats [ummer; that they hsS^ bt„ ^'''^'''^P'-^'^eding kindnefs by the people wh^^, *•'"'? '^= S™«eft entered inlo a l«Ze Zf ^" '" "'='». and had *at inconfeqUTof tt'r/ "'"> 'hem, a„1 fian fort, in Srder to f« I* t7 """*"' ""^Ruf" agreeable to both nations Th f'^ " asi To THE Pacific Ocean, &c.* 2105 iaptain ^f fomc ainbaf- ided to ;dings» fkewas of 6f opinion, that the whole accofint of our difco- veries might fafely be committed to the care of a man, who had given the (Irongeft proofs of probity and virt' c. Conlidering alfo, that a very hazar- dous part of the voyage was ftill to be performed, he reiolved to fend, by him, the whole of. Captain Cook's journal ; together with his jown, from the death of that commander, till our arrival at Kamtf- chatka ; and alfo a chart of our difcoveries. Mr. Bayly and Mr. King alfo determined to fend an ac« count of our proceedings to the board of longitude. From thefe precautions, had any accident befallen us, the admiralty would have become poiTeiTed of . the principal fadls of our voyage. It was farther refolved, that a finaller packet ihould be difpatched from Okbtik, which the Major fuppofed would reach Peterfburgh by December ; and that he ejct I pefled to arrive there himfelf in February or March, The Major was entertained alternately in the two jlhips, as well as we were able, the three following . On Thurfday, the 25th, he departed, and Iwas faluted with 1 3 guns ; the failors, at their own requeft, expreffing their regard for him by three Icheers. Mr. King and Mr. Webber attended him, [the next morning, fome few miles up the Awatika Iriver, where the Ruffian prieft and his family were liting to bid a laft adieu to their commander; ^hen taking our leave of the Major, it is difficult (0 fay, whether the worthy prieft and his family or purfelves were moft afieded. Though our ac- quaintance had been of fhort duration, his behavi* fur had infpired us with the J :gheft efteem for him ; ad we could not part (perhaps for ever) with one, whom we were under fuch infinite obligations, ithout indulging the moft tender feelings^ .£x- jufive of the itores, which might probably be car- led to a public account, the value of the private pents^he beftowed on us, muft have amounted to pwardg of 2Q0 : ppun^s. fiiuty however extraor* [No. 77. 12 L dinary > ■ . I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 2.5 lis ^ ^" 2.0 111 ii4 Ii4 fV^ % y Photographic Sciences Corporation 2.^ W.ST MAIM ^'i RUT WiUTiR.U r. I4SM (716) •73-4S03 '^°^\ ^ %%^ '^ ^\ Ruffian ful jt&. to aflift us to the utmou of their abilitic^ Havih^ thus givfen a narratWe of ^i fdumcy of H party to, attd their return #roffl Bowhcreiik^ tiv riHr^^ioh therc) • and-thc dMrtore^ Alajor quittet againA bower anchor The ex leak, V part of tfaetrui that th< Tuefita] which c top-inal derate i: ^way as paulowi greater < and aga bay fhul wina hai at the < party w projcfrcft which ft] abreafto a good r the ctmp fail-make the beac liaul the flat.^£ time, Hh even ove which ca bot^^df honriniif Behnitg To tHi Faciiic Ocean^&c. 2107 we ihali now recount the tranfadions which pafled at PetropaulowAm during our abfence. On Fnday, the 7th of May, not long after we had quitted the bay of Awatika, a great piece of ice drove againft the Refolution, and brought home the finall bower anchor ; in confequence of which the other anchor was weighed, and the (hip was moored again. The carpenters, who were occupied in flopping the leak, were under the necefltty of taking off great part of the iheathing from the bows ; and many of the trunnek were found to be fo loofe and rotten, that they were drawn out eafily with the finger?. On Tuefilay the nth, heavy g^es blew from the N^E. which obliged both reffels to ftrike their yards and top-mafts ; but the weather becoming more mo- derate in the aftemoim, and the ice jhavingjdnlted Hway ai far a? the mouth of the harbour of ^etro- paulowika, they warped clofe to the ihore ibr the greater convenience of procuring wood and water, and again moored, as before $ the mouth of the bay (hut u by the moft foutherly point of Rako- wina harbour, bearing S. and the town N. half W. at the diiftance of huf a mile. On the 12th, a party -was detached to cut wood, but made little progreff ia that fervioe,: on account of the fuow, which ftill covered the ground. A convenient fpot, abreaft df the fldps^ was clekred, where there was a good run of water ; and a tent being pitched for the copper, the empty cilks were landed, and the fail-9iakers fent aflibre. On Saturday, the 1 5th, s^ the beach was then dear of ice, a party was. fent to haul the feine, and caugkt a plentiful fupply of fine flat*fiih for the companica of both ihipB. ., From this time, hidebd, till we quitted the harbPUft we were even overpowered with the great qu^HJ^ities of fiih which cjime in ii^m evidry quarten Tfaie Toions, both 6f thia town, and iq£ raratounca, a neigh- bouring village, had rcofiv^d ordens frpm Maiur Behm to empoy, in otlrftrvrkd all the l^amtfcha- i^La cUles} il09 CoOk'% THIHD AMD tAST VcVTiCGB dales ; fo that it frequently happened, that we could not take into the ihips the pretents which were feat uSk They generally confifted of herrings, trout, flat-fifh, and cod. The former, which were in their higheft perfediowi, and of a delicious flavour, were in extreme plenty in this bay. The people of the Difcovery, at onetime, furrounded fuch an amaz- ing quantity in their feine, that they were obliged to throw out a very confiderable number, left the net Ihould be broken to pieces ; and the c^irgo they landed was ftill fo abundant, that, bcfides having a fufficient ftock for immediate ufe, they filled as many caCu as they could conveniently ipare for lalting ; and, after fending on board the Refolution a tolerable quantitv for the fame purpofe, Ihey left behind feveral bumels upon the beaoi. ; ci o The ice and (how now began rapidly to dlfapk pear, and plenty of nettle^tops, celery, and wild garlick, were gathered for the ufe or the crews ; which being boiled with portable foup and wheat, furniflied them with an excellent and fiuutary breik- iaft ; and with thb they were every morning fup- plied. The birch-trees were alfo tapped, and the iweet juice, of which they produced great quanti- ties, was conftantly mixed with the brandy allowed to the men. On the i6th, a fmall buuock was killed, which the feijeant ha(i procured for the ihips* companies. Its weight was 272 pounds. It was ferved out to both the crews for their Sunday's dinner, and was the firft frefii beef which they had Cafted iince the departure of our Teflels from the Cape of Good Hope, in December, 1776 ; a period of almoft two years and a half. This evening John Macitttofli, the carpenter^s mate expired, after list- ing been affliAed with a dyientery ever fince we had left the Sandwich Ifles. He was a peaceable and indufbious man, and greadv regretted by his meflmates. Though hfi was the iauith peribn that we had loft by fidmeft diuisg ov voyage^ he w^s L t ^ - the To THS Paci,,c Ockak, &c. a'lop l« aid to^JS^^^^^*^ «fco„ftitution. could -chance of life with' ^^ °^'«''»? ««. « equd Watnwn was fuppofcd L^ °'.'"^W"'Panions. cluie wWch had manifX" ^^5*>"'i«"n *««*=- depMture from Eb^^LT^T^ Wore our nod than they did. ' *"* '"'«' «» » '«'« pe- cliS'S^SSiJl^ continuing daily to de. which Kamtfch«SXrd Ji?'*'y «»»?" of dfet ftate he was in, fupDlSrf wl """"^ «' 'ke wwfc bread, fowls, «d Wbt^J^^ydavwithm^ non was ,<{ mUesfroTthJ^SSu'^'"'?'' ** ''»«>it^ wereflationed, fwir °»rbour where our ftip. Ul, near the t<;wn "f sT Pwl' ?l «S«« J-S- » very deplorable Ibte Aln^k"?^''.^'"'' ''w m » greater or lefsd^ fffliA^^'H''" '^"C S many bring in the ^ISL i^*? *'"'» f>e fcuArf reft of the Rnffif„ i„rf ' °^ ""' <«forder. tSc » fimilar coS,tf weir** 'H*""' ^ friend the ferieant bv rfli^- °''^"^«1. that our fpirits he had' nXZ /^i^""« '?» ^eely of the himfelf in the coSStr ?*• '""^ brought on p&etarp„f tht-Zn'S-™ ^" ^« ^- [orgeons, and gSve 0X7 T?" '>» "« of our krout, and malf. for ^^ 'ft''", */"PP'y of four «W nfc. A fuJiaSnTa^'t.Sr"''' ^ '^""«*«» 'or « the figures ofSoWS"" ^°° V*'^' P'»ce recovery „as chiefly attrib^^/ *?*• theh-fpiedy fweet wojt. ' «tnbnted to the efefls oY the flour tllO Cook's THIRD AND LA8t VOYAOE flour ft'bm the ftcres of FetrOpaolOwika. The mch vrert now put on thdr full allowante of bread, which, from thie time of Our leaving the Cape of Good Hope, thtf had not been indulged in. The fame day, we compleated our ftock of wa(ter, 65 tons having been conveyed on board. Friday, the 4th, we hadfirdh breezes, and heavy rains, (o that 'we were tiifappointed in oUr dd%n of drtfflif g the Ihips, and obliged to content ourfelvts with ming 21 giins, in hotaour of Hfs Majefty'sbirth^dty, and relebriti^ it, ih othe^ rei^eifts, in the beft manner We cbujd. Port, who, on account of his ikitl in languages, tv^s left with us, partook^ as well as the ibjtaiit,.i^ii the capacity of commandant of the |>Iac^) (k the entcttainntent of the day. The wor- thy pii^ft of Paratounca, having been informed that It wast^e a^nlverfary of our foverdgn's birth, ^ve likewife a iunifttuous feaft, a£t which f^veral of tmr gehtlemen were prefent, who were highly pleafed with their^entertainment, of which dancing formed a part. On the 6th, 20 head of cattle ar- rived, having been fent us, by the direAions of the commander, from the VerchUei oftrog, which ihmds on the riter Kamptfchatka, at the diftance of ahnoft a hundred miles from this place. Thefe cat- tle were of a moderate iize; and, though the tlamtfbhadales had been 17 days in driving them down to the harbour, were in good condition when they arrived. The four fucceeding days were em- ployed in Aiaking preparations for putting to fea; knd on Friday, the i tth, about two o'clock in the morning, we began to unmoor. Before, however, we had got up one anchor, fo violeht a gale fprung up ft^om the N. £. that we thought proper to moor again, fuppofing, frc n the pofition of the entrance Of the bay, that the current of wind would, in alii probability, fet up the channel. The piilnacewis 'dii)>atchcd to eixamine the pttfikge, and returned y/^ intettigemce, that the wind blew Tiblently from the To THi PACiFtr Ocean, &c. am the S. E. with a great fwell, fetting into the bay | fo that any attempt to get out to fea would have been attended with confiderable rifque. Mr. Port now took his leave of us, carrying with him the box containing the journals of our voyage, which Major Behm Was to take charge of, and tne packet that was to be forwarded by exprefs. On the 1 2th, the gale having abated, we began unmooring 9gain} but, after having broken the meOenger, and reeved a running purchafe with a fix inch haufer, which likewife broke three times, we were, at lail, under the necefllty of heaving a flrain at low water, and waiting for the flowing of the tide to raife the an- chor. This meafure fucceeded, though not with* out damaging the cable. About three o'clock in the afterrioon, the beft bower was weighed, and we fet fail ; but, at eight, the tide making againft us, and the wind being inconiiderable, we anchored again in ten fathoms water, off the mouth of Ra* kowina harbour : the oftrog being at the diftance of between two and three miles, bearing N. by £. half £. the elevated rock on the wel^ern fide of the paf- fage, bearing S. and the needle rocks, on the eaftem fide of the paffage, S. S. £. half £. Oa Sunday, the 13 th, at four o'clock, A.M. we got under way with the tide of ebb ; and, as there was ia perfedfc calm, the boats were difpatched a<^ head ibr the purpofe of towing the ihips. About 10, a fputh-eafterly wind iprin^ng up, and th^ tide having tuned, we were obliged to let go our anchors again, in feven fathoms ', the oftrog bear- ing N. hsuif £. at the diftance of a mile frooi tbt land that was neareft to us ; and the three needle rocks being in the diredion of S. lialf £)• In tht alternoon. Captain Gore and Lieutenant Kiqg landed on the eaft fide of the paflage, where they obfervcd, in two diffbrect places, the remains of fy^dgns vil« la^es ; and, on the fide of a hill, they faw an old fiUDed paisqiety with Urns as |iye embrafurof* It sxfi Cook's THino and last Voyaoc had guns mounted on it in Beering's time, as that navigator himfelf informs us ; and commanded the paflaffe up the mouth of the bay. Not far from this mot, were the ruins of Aibteiraneous caverns, which our two gentlemen conjedured to have been magazines. About fix o'clock, P. M. we weighed anchor, with the ebb tide, and turned to windward ; but, two hours after, a thick fog coming on, we were under the neceflity of bringing to, our found- ings not affording us a fufficient direction for fteer- ing betwixt fevem funken rocks, fituated on each fide of the pafiage we were to make. The next morning, the fog in fome degree difperfing, we weighed as foon as the tide began to ebb ; and, there being little wind, the boats were fent a-head to tow; but, about lo o'clock, both the wind and tide iet in fo firong from thd fea, that we were once more obliged to caft anchor, in 13 fethoms water, the high rock being at the diftancr of fix furlongs, in the dire^ion of W. one quarter S. We conti« nued, during the remainder of the day, in this fituation, the wind blowing frefli in.:o the mouth of the bay« Towards the evening, the weather was extremely dark and cloudy with an unfettled wind. On the 15th, we were furprized, before day-laght, wif h a rumbling noife, that refembled diftant thun* der ; and when the day ap|>eared, we found that the fides and decks of our mips were covered, near an inch thick, with a fine duft like emery. The air was at the fame time loaded and obfoured with this fubftance ; and, towards the volcano mountain, which ftands to the northward of the harbour, it was exceedingly thick and black, infomuch that we Were unable to diftinguifli the body of the hilL About 12 o'clock, and during the afternoon, the Jbudnefs of the explofions increafed ; and they were iiicceeded by fhowers of cinders, which, in gene- ral, "yrere of the fize of peas, though many of th^ie that were picked up from the deck were kiger taao •'-••■* • ■'^, a hazel many patt As.our cor coaft of J would alio continued We light w was Itill ob fmoke; an( fathoms of the fliore. & and the I it was impr prcfcnt to ^at Wfi tali ' No. 77.^ To THE Pacific Ocban, &c. 211^ a hazel nut. Several fmall ftones, which had un^ dergone no alteration from the aAion of fire, ifell with the cinders. In the evening we had dreadful claps of thunder, and vivid flames of lightning, which, with the daiknefs of the iky. and the ful- phureous fmell of the air, produced a very awful and tremendous effefb. Our diftance from the foot of the mountain was, at this time, about eight leagues. On the i6th, at day-break, we got up. our anchors, and flood out of the bay ; but the wind falhng, and the tide of ebb fetting acrofs the pailage on the eaftern fhore, we were driven very near the three needle rocks, fituated on that fide of the entrance, and were under the neceflity of hoift- ine out the boats, for the purpofe of towing the flups clear of them. . At 1 2 o'clock, we were at the diftance of fix miles from the land ; and our depth of water was 43 fathoms, over a bottom of (mall ftones, of the fame kind with thofe which had fallen upon our decks, after the late eruption of the volcano. The country had now a very different appearance from what it had on our firft arrival. The fnOw, except what remained on the fummits of fome very lofty mountains, had vanifhed *, and the fides of the hills, which abounded with wood in many patts, were covered with a beautiful verdure. As.our commander intended to keep in fight of the coaft of Kamtfchatka, as much as the weather would allow, in order to afcertain its pofition, we continued to fleer towards the N. N. £. with varia- ble lieht winds, till Friday, the 18th. The volcano was ftill obferved to throw up immenfe volumes of fmoke; and we did not ftrike ground with 150 fathoms of line, at the diftance of 1 2 miles from the fhore. This day the wind blew frefh from the S. and the weather became fo thick and hazy, that it was imprudent to make any further attempts at prefent to keep in fight of the land. However, that we might be ready, whenever the fog fhould No» 77« 12 M dear tti4 COOK*s Titiiio Aisii lASt VbtAofc clear up» to rdfutne bur furvey, we ran on in th^ ^tt£tion df Che eoaft, (as reprefented in theRuflian charts) sldd fired fignal guns for the Difcovery to proceed on the fame tourfe. At ii o'clock, Juft before wie Ibll fight of land, Cheepoonfkoi Nofs, (b denoMiilated by the Ruflians, was at the diftance of feven or eight leagues, bearing N. N. £. Oii ^e 2ot1i, at three o'clock in the morning, the Wea- ther becOttiing clearer, we ftood in towards the land ; and, in the fpace of an hour afterwards, faw it a-head, extending from N. W. to N. N. E. at the diftance of about five leagues. The northern part we conje6hired to be Kronotficoi Nofs ; its pofition in the Ruffian charts, nearly agreeing with our reckoning in refpe^l to its latitude, which w^s 54 deg. 42 min. N. though, in point of longitude, we di&red confiderably from them } for they place it i d^rr. 48 min. E. of Awatfka ; whereas our compu* th makes it 3 deg. 94 min. £. of that place, or 162 ^eg. 17 min. F of Greenwich. The land about this cape is very elevated, and the inland moun- tains were, at this time, covered with fnow. There is no appearance of inlets or bays in the coaft ; and the fhore breaks ofi* in fteep cliffs. We had not long been gratified with this view of the land, when the wind frefhened from the S. W. bringing on a thick fog, which obliged us to Hand off m the di- rection of N. E. by E. The fog difperfing about noon 9 we again fleered for the land, e^^edtin? to fall in with Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs, and gained a fight of it at day-break on the 21ft. The S. W. wind being foon after fucceeded by a light breeze that blew off the land, we were prevented from ap- proaching the coafl fufHcientlv near to determine its diredlion, or defcribe its afped):. At noon, our] long, was 163 deg. .50 min. and ourlat. 55 de^. 52 1 min. the extremes of the land bore N. W. by W. three quarters W. and N. by W. three quarters W. and the nearefl part was at the diftance of abbit 241 niries. sccurat lon^itu penmfu the fea. to mak< catka, courfe the refp the coa bay, la Olutorf] which termina being Koriaci 9n which at the d vered ^ To TifB Pacific Ocean, &:c. 2115 iniles. At nine in the evening, when we had ap- proached about 6 miles nearer the coaft, it ap- peared to form a projeiftin^ peninfula, and to extend II or 12 leagues in the dire^ion nearly of N. and S. It is level, and of a moderate elevation ; the fouthern extreme terminates in a low floping point ; that to the northward forms a fteep bluff head ; and between them, 10 or 12 miles to theS. of the nor- thern c^ipc, there is a confiderable break in the land. On both fides of this break, the land is low. A remarkable hill, refembling a faddle, rifes beyond the opening ; and a chsun of lofty mountains^ cap- ped with fnow, extends alqng the back of the whole peninfula. As the coaft runs in an eVen dirediop, we were uncertain with refped to the pofition of Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs, which^ according to Mr. Mul- ler, forms a projecting point towards the middle of the peninfula ; but we afterwards found, that, in 'a late Ruffian map, that appellation is given to the fouthern cape. The latitude of this, irom feveral accurate obfervations, was 56 deg. 3 min. ^nd its longitude, 163 deg. 20 min. To the S. of th^s penmfula, the great river Kamtfchatka runs into the fea. The feafon being too far advanced for us to make an accurate furvey of the coaft of Kamtf- catka, it was the defign of Captain Gierke, on oi^r courfe to Beering's Straights, to afcertain chic% ,the refpeCtive fituations of tke projecting points of the coaft. We therefore fteered acrofs a fpacious bay, laid down between Kamtfchatfkoi Nofs and Olutorfkoi Nofs, with a view of making the latter; which is reprefented by the Ruffian geographers, ;i$ terminating the peninfula of Kamtlchiitka, ai^d 4s being the fouchem limit of the country of tbe KoriaCs. On Tuefday, the 22d9 we pafled a de^d whale, which emjtted a moft horrible fmell, perceiveab)e at the diftance of three or four miles. It was co- vered with a very conHderable number of gulls, . * 12 Ma petrels. M iff:! 111^ Cook's third and last Voyaob petrels, and other oceanic birds, which were re- galing thcmfelves upon it. On the 24th, the wind, which had ihifted about duiing the three preced- ing days, fettled at S. W. bringing on clea^ wea- ther, with which we proceeded towards theN. £. by N. acrofs the bay, having no land in fight. In the courfe of this day we obferved a great number of gulls, and were difgufted with the indelicate man- ner of feeding of the arctic gull, which has pro* cured it the appellation of the parafite. This bird, which is rather lareer than the common gull, pur- . fues the latter fpecies whenever it meets them i the gull, after flying about for fome time, with loud Sreams, and manifeft indications of extreme terror, drops its excrement, which its purfuer inftantly darts at, and catches in his beak before it falls into the fea. On Friday, the 25th, at one o'clock, P. M. when in the latitude of 59 deg. 1 2 min. and in the longi- tude of 16S c\eg. 35 min. a vciy thick fog came on, about the time we expected to obtain a view of Olutorikoi Nofs, which (if Muller's pofition of it, in the latitude of 59 deg. go min. and in the longi- tude of 167 deg. g6min. is right) could then have been only 12 leagues from us; at which difiance, we might eafily have difcerned land of a moderate height. Our depth of water, at prefent, was fo great, that we had ho ground with 160 fathoms of fine. The fog ilill continuing, prevented us from tnaking a nearer approach to the land, and we (leered £. by N. at five o'clock,' which' is a little tnore eafterly than the Hufiian charts reprefent the trending of the coaft from Olutorfkoi Nofs. The next day, a frefli gale blew from the S. W.: which Jailed till noon on the r27th, when the weather clearing up, we (leered to the N. with an intentiop of making the land. . Our latitude, at this time, was 59 deg^ 49 min. and our longitude 17 5' deg. 43 mi|), Thpugh w^ faw foxQC (hag^ i^ the iDorn- rn- To THt Pacific Oceah, &c. 2117 iog, which are imagined never tr fly far from the land, yet there was no appearance ot it during the v^hole day. However, the next morning, about iix o'clock, we had fight of it towards the N. W. The coaft appeared in hills of a moderate elevation ; but inland, others were obferved confiderably higher. The fnow lying in patches, and no wood bcmg perceived, the land had a very barren afipedt. At nme o'clock, we were ten or eleven miles from the fliore, the fouthern extreme bearing W. by S. about fix leagues diftant, beyond which the coaO- feemed to incline to the W. This point being in the lonntude of 174 de^. 48 min. and in the lati- tude or 61 dcg, 48 min. is fituated according to the Ruffian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. The northern extremity, at the fame time, bore N. by W. between which, and a hill bearing N. W. by W. qtiartei W. the coaft appeared to bend towarcfs the W. and form a deep bay. At the di<>ance of about eight miles from the land we obferved a ftrone rippling ; and being under apprehenfions of ineetmg with foul ground, we made fail to the N. E. along the c6aft. On heaving the lead, we found the depth of water to be 24 fathoms, over a bottom of gravel. We therefore concluded, that the ap« pearance above-mentioned, was occafioned by a tide, then running to the fouthward. At noon, the ex* tremes of the land bearing W. S. W. and N. N. £. we were abreaft of the low land, which, we now obfei-ved. Joined the two points, where we had be^ fore expected to difcover a deep bay. The coaft bends a little towards the W. and has a iinall inlet, which is, perhaps, the mouth of fome inconfider- able river. Our longitude was now 175 deg. 43 min. ind our latitiide 6 1 deg. 5^ min. During the afternoon, we continued our courfe along the coafir, v'hich exhibited an appearance of fterility, and the hills rofe to a confiderable elevation ii^Jand, but the clouds. on (heir tops prevcoted usfroi^ dctenoining a their tii8 Cook's third and last Vo:^Aaip their height About eight o'clock in the evening, fome of our people thought they faw land to the £ by N. upon which we ilood to the fouthward of £. but it proved to be nothing more thsin a fog banki At miontghty the extreme point bearing N. £. quar- ter £. we conjectured that it was St. Thadeus's Nofs ; to the S. of which the land inclines towards the W. forming a deep bight, wherein the river Katirka, according to the charts publifbed by the Auflians, is fituated. On Tuefday the 29th, the weather was unfetded, with the wind at the N. £. point. On the 30th, at noon, we obferved iq longitude 1 80 deg. and latitude 6 1 deg. 48 min. At this time, St. Thadeus*s Nofs bore N. N. W. at the .diftance of 23 leagues; and beyond it we perceived .the coaft extending almoft dM^ecUy N. The ^aftern- moftpotnt of the Nofs is inthelfltitjudeol ^^deg. 50 ;iDin. and in the longitude pf 179 de^. The land about it, from its being difcerned at&great adiA iance, may juftly be fuppofed to be of a confider- able height During this and the preceding day, .We &W numbers of fea-horfes, whales* and.ieals; .ailTo albatroiTes, gulls, fea-parrots, guillemots, aafl other birds. i- , ther dian to that of any current.. The wind to- wards the evening, fremening from the S. E* we ileered to the N. E. by £. for the point that Beering calls Tichukot&oi Nofs, which we had obferved op the 4th ^td September the .preceding year, at tm fame di ifht, ( ftant. be ^ ,< 1*0 TilE PAClfit OC^AM, &C. ^IIj^ fame time that we perceived, towards the l9. E» th^ Ifle of St. Lawrence. This c&pe, and St. Thadeus'S Ndfs, form the north-eaftem and fouth-weftem ex- tremes of the exten£ve Gulph of Anadir, into tho bottom of which the river of that dame difcharges ilfelf, feparatibg, as it pafles, the country df the tfchatiki from that of the Koriacs. On the gd, at noon. We bbferved in latitude 63 deg. 93 mit>* longitude 186 deg. 45 min. Between twelve and one, we defcried the Tfchukotikoi Nois, bearing N. half W. at the diftance of 1 3 or 14 leagues. At five in the afternoon, we faw the ifland of St. La^ risnce, in the direction of E. three-quarters N. add alfb another ifland, which we imagined was be- tween St. Lawrence and Anderfon's Ifland, about 18 miles E. S. £. of the former. As we had no certain knowledge of this ifland. Captain Gierke was inclined to have a nearer view of it-, and im* mediately hauled che wind towards it: but it un- fortunately happened, that we were unable to wea- ther the Ifle of St. Lawrence, and were therefore obliged to bear up again, and pafs them all to the leeward. The latitude of the Ifland of St. Law- rence, according to the moft accurate obfervations, is 63 deg. 47 min. and its longitude b 188 deg. 15 min. This ifland, if its boundaries were at prefent within our view, is. about three leagues in circum- ference. The northern part of it may be diicerned at the diftance of ten or a dozen leagues. As it has ibme low land to the S. E. the extent of which wc tould not perceive, iome of us fuppofed, that it might ^)erhaps be joined to the land to the eaftward of it: we were, however, prevented by the hazi- neffi of the weather, from afcertaining this circum- flance. Thefe iflands, as well as the land adjoining to the Tfchukotfltoi Nofs, were covered with fnow, and prefented a moft difmal afpeA. About mid- nighty the Ifle of St. Lawrence was five Or fix miles diitant, bearing S. S. £. and our foundings were 18 fathoms. '^11 '■> 1;.' i-m ■m iiU iTd i •hooks. We beh)dl^ them in this dangerous lituation at hOon, at the dH* tance of about three miles from us, in a N.'W2 direction ; a frefli gale from the S. £. driving liior^ ice towards the N. W. and augmenting the body that lay between us. Our lat. at this time, was 6^ deg. 8 min. our long. 187 dog. and our (bunding^ were 28 fathoms. To add to the apprehenfion^ which began to force themfelves on our minds, be^* tween four and five in the afternoon, the weathct^ becoming thick and hazy. We loft fight of the Dis- covery. However, that we might be in a fituatiotf to afford her every pofiible afiiftance, Wef ftdod 6n^ 12 O 2 clofe n jsrji Cook's third and last Voyage jdofe by the edge of the ice. About fix o'clock the mind mifting to the norths gave us fome hopes, that the ice mi^ht drift away, and releafe her from fur danger ; and in that cafe, as it was uncertain 111 what condition ihe might come out, we conti- nued, every half hour to fire a eun, with a view .of preventing a feparation . Our tears for her fafety dicf not ceafe til! nine, when we heard her guns £red in anfwer to ours ; and not long afterwards being haiTed by her, we were informed, that upon ihe change of wind, the ice began to feparate, and tiizt her people, fetting all the fails, forced a paf- lage through it. On Saturday, the 24th, we fteered to the S. E. till X i o'clock, A. M. when our courfe was again obitruded by a large body of loofe ice, to which we could difcover no bounds. At noon we found ourlelves in lat. ^8 deg. 53 min. long. 188 deg. About four in the afternoon, we had a calm, and the boats. were hoifted out in purfuit of the fea- BorfcB, which appeared in prodigious numbers. Ten- of them were killed by our people, as many as co^Id be made ufe or by us for eating, or for con- verting into lamp-oil. We held on our courfe with a fouth-wefierly wind, along the edge of the ice, tilifour in the morning of the '25th, when perceiv- ing a clear fe^ beyond it, to the louth-eafiward, we Retired to that point. During the remaining part of, the day, we continued to run towards the S. £. with no ice in fight. At noon we obferved in lat. 68 deg. 38 min. long. 189 deg. 9 min. and '^ur foundings were 30 fathoms. For the remaindu of th^ day, and till noon of the 27th, we ftood back- wards and forwards, to clear ourfelvest of dif- ferent pieces of ice. At two in the afternoon, we had fight of the continent to ;he S. by £. and, at four, having run, fince noon, to the S. W. we were encompafied by loofe maflcs of ice, virith the fi^ain body in view, iiretching iq the diie^ion of :. . " ^ ^ N.by To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2133 N. by ,W. and S. by £. as far asihe eye could reach, beyond which we defcried the Afiatic coaft, bearing S. and S. by £. It being now neceflary to come to fome determination refpeding the cour(Q we were next to fteer. Captain Gierke difpatched a boat, with the carpenters, on board the Difcoyery, to make enquiries into the particulars of the damages ihe had lately received. In the evening tiiey re- turned, with the report of Captain Gore, ai^d of the carpenters of both veflels, that the damages fuftained were fuch as would require three weeks to repair ; and that it would berequifite, for thatpi^^ pofe, to make the beft of their way to fome porL Thus finding our farther progrefs to the N. as well as our nearer approach to either continent, ob- ftruded by immenfe bodied of ice, we confidered it as not only injurious to the fervice, by endanger- ing the fafety of the fliips, but likewife fruitlefs, with refpect to the deiign of our voyage, to make any farther attempts for the difcoyery of a paflage. This, therefore, added to Captain Gore's reprefen- tations, determined Captain Gierke to lofe no more time after what he concluded to be an unattainable objed, but to proceed to the bay of Awatfka, to repair our damages there, and before the winter ihould fet in, to take a furvey of the coaft of Ja- pan. It is impoflible to defcribe the joy that fparkled in the countenance of every individual, when the captain's refolution was made known^ All were completely weary of a navigation full of danger, and in which the greateftperfeverencehad not been rewarded with the fmalleft prolpeft of fuc- cefs. We therefore turned our thoughts towards home, after an abfence of three years, with a de- light and fatisfa^on, as fully enjoyed, as if we had been already in fight of the Land's-cnd. On Wed- nefday, the 28th, we worked to windward, with a frefli breeze from the S. £^ being ftiU in fight of the coall of Afia. At four 10 the morniiig, Capie ^m m *ii .I'l 1 1 T-7" 2134 Cook's third and last Voyag e Serdze Kamen bore S. S, W. diftant feven leagues. On the 29th, the wind continuing unfavourable, "we made but ilOw progrefs to the fouthward. We Jiad no land in view till fev^en in the evening of the 30th, when the fog difperfing, we law Cape Prince of Waks bearing S. by E. dilUnt fix leagues ; and the ifland of St. Diomede S. W. by W. We now flood to the W. and at eight made the Eaft Cape, which at midnight, was four leagues diftant, bear- ing W. by N. On Saturday, the 31ft, at four o'clock, A. M. the Eaft Cape bore N. N. £. and the N. Ew',part of the Bay of St. Lawrence, W. by S. diftant 12 miles. At noon, we obferved in lati- tude 65 deg. 6min. longitude 189 deg. We had now paft'ed Beering's Straits, and taken a final leave of the N. £. coaft of Afia ; and here w« fliall ftate our reafons for adopting two general conclufions relative to its extent, in oppofition to the fentiments of Mr. Muller. The'firft is, that the promontory, tailed Eaft Cape, is a^ually the moft cafterly point of that quarter of the globe; or in other words, that no part of that continent extends in longitude beyond 190 deg. zzmin.E, The feeond is, that the latitude of the north-eaftern- irioft extreme is fomewhat to the fouthward of 76 deg. N. With regard to the fonner, if fuch lanu really exifts, it muft certainly be to the N. of tht 69th deg. of latitude, where the difccveries made in our prefenfe voyage terminate. We propofe therefore in the firft place to invefti- gate the probable direi^ion of the coaft beyond this point. Now, liuftia, being the only nation, that has hitherto navigated this part of the ocean, all our information refpe^ling the poiition of the coaft to the northward of Cape North, is derived fronl the journals and charts of the perfons who have been' engaged, at different times^ in determining thd bounds of that extenfive empire, and thefe are, itf g^eral,/o-confinedj contFadidcny, and>imperfc:^| ^sUiii^ that To Jflcfeween the I'ccording^toh To THE Pacific Oc EAK, &c. 2135 that we cannot eafily form a diftinA idea of their pretended, much lefs eolleft the particulars of their real difcoveries. On this account, the extent and figure of the peninfula, inhabited by the Tfchutiki fiill remains a point, on Avhich the Ruffian geograr phers are divided greatly in their opinions. Mr. Muller, in the map which he publifhed in i754« fuppofes that this country extends towards the N* £. as far as the latitude of 75 deg. and to the longi- tude of 1 90 deg. £. of Greenwich ; and that it ends iq a round cape, which he denominates Tfchukotikoi Nofs. To the S. of this cape, the coaft, as he ima> gines, forms a bay to the W. bounded in the lati- tude of 67 deg. 1 8 min. by Serdze Kamcn, the moil northerly point obferved by Beering in his ex- pedition in 1728. The map publifhed in 1776 by the academy of St. Peterfburg, gives a new form to the whole peninfula, placing its north^eafternmofb extreme in the latitude of 73 deg. longitude it 9 deg. 30 min. and the mod eafterly point in latitude 65 deg. 30 min. longitude 189 deg. 30 min. All the other maps we have feen, both manufcript and . printed, vary between thefe two, apparently more according to the fancy and conjeftures of the com- piler, than on any grounds of more accurate intelli- gence. The only particular in which there is a gene- ral coincidence, with very little variation, is the po- rtion of the Eaft Cape, in the latitude of 66 deg. The form of the coaft both to the N. and S. of the Ealt Cape, in the map of the academy^ is extremely er- roneous, and may be entirely difregarded. In Mr. Muller's map,' the coaft towards the N. has fome ;gree of refemblance to our furvey, as far as the latter extends, except that he does not make it I trend fufficiently to the W. but makes it recede only I about 5 deg. of • longitude, between the latitude.of [(>6 and ^9 d^. whereas it anally recedes near ten. Between the latitude of 69 and 74 deg. the coaft, |iccording:to him> bends round to the N. andN.E. 2 and pute, and to prove that the cape which PopofTvifited cannot be to the northward of the latitude of 69 deg. is that part of his depofition which relates to an ifland lying off the Nofs, from whence the op- polite continent might be difcerned. For, as the two continents, in latitude 69 deg. diverge fo far as to be upwards of 100 leagues diftant, it is cer- tainly very improbable, that tne coaft of Afia fhotdd again trend in fuch a manner to the E. as to come aimed v/ithin fight of the American coaft. If thefe arguments are allowed to be conclufive againft the . form and extent of the peninfula of the Tfchutfki, it muft be evident (hat the Eaft Cape is the Tfchu* kotfkoi of the earlier Ruffian navigators: we fay earlier, becaufe Beering, and, after him, the late Ruffian geographers, have affixed this appellationl to the S. E. cape of the peninfula of the TfchutikiJ which was formerly diftinguiihed by the name of the Anadyrikoi Nofs : and, confeqnently, hence i^ will follow, that the undefcribed coaft, extending from the latitude of 69 deg. to the month of the Kovyma, muft trend more or lefs towards the W| AS an additional proof of this, we may obfervej that theTfchukotikoi Nofs is conftantlylaid downaj dividing the fea of Kovyma from that of Anadyrj whicr ,.To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2139 which we think could not poiTibly be, if any large cape had projedei to the N. £. in the more ad- vanced latituctes. Another queftion arifing on this point is, to what degree of northern latitude this coeaftern extremity of Afia ; though he adds, that this fea is not, at all times, fo free from it; as indeed appears evidently from his not fuc- ceeding in his firii expedition, and, fince that, frqn^ the failurcLOf Shalauroff, as well as ffoiQ (he inter* n? Z ruptioAS '% ! r ■ ? i . 1 I m ■ ■ 1 llji '(' 2140 Cook's third and last Voyage ruptionsand impediments we met with, in two fuc- ceflive years, in our prefcnt voyage. That part uf the continent between Cape North, and the mouth of the Kovyma, is 125 leagues in longitudinal ex- tent. About a third of this diftance from the Ko- vyma, eaftward, was explored in 1723, by Fedot i^moffoff, a Sinbojarikoi of Jakuts, who informed Mr. Muller, that its dire^ion was £afterly. Since that time, it has been furveyed, with fome degree of accuracy, by ShalaurofF, whofe chart makes it trend to the N. £. by £. as far as Shelatikoi Nofs, which jie places at the diflance of about 42 leagues to the E. of the Kovyma. The fpace, therefore, between this Nofs and Cape North, upwaids of 80 leagues, is the only part of the HufHan dominions now remaining unexplored. If the Kovyma, how- ever, be erroneoufly laid down, in point of longi- tude as well as latitude (a fuppofition by no means improbable) the extent of the unexplored coaft will diminifh in proportion. The reafons which in- cline us to imagine, that in the Ruflian charts, the mouth of the river is placed confiderably too far to the W. are the following. Firft, becaufe the ac- counts that have been given of the navigation of the Frozen Ocean, from that river, round the north' eaftern extreme of Alia, to the Gulph of Anadyr, do not agree with the fuppofed diflance between thofe places. Secondly, becaufe the diftance from the Anadyr to the Kovyma, over land, is repre- fented by former Kuilian travellers as a journey of no very great length, and eafily performed. Thirdly, becaufe the coaft from the Shelatfkoi Nofs of Shalauroff appears to trend dirc6My S. E. towards the cape. If this be really the cafe, it may be in- ferred, that, as we were, in all probability, not more than one degree to the fouthward of Shelat- fkoi Nofs, only 60 miles of the coaft of Afia ar^ unafcertained. We are of opinion, thinking it highly probable, that ^^olZlA'l7a'^rr'' -'0 'he Pa. 56th deg. of latitude If t^ "';«'""'Ward of the ex-fts. it ...uft cmalnly be drif^T.^P^flje' really Bay or by the N. o G«e„ la^H '""f'' ^"'S"*' hemifphere, orin the eaftern tSrn '"^'t* "''ft'™ Sea, to the N. of Siberia 'j™"S'' '''e Frozen " >■» fituated ,h, " ' *"'' °" which ever fid^ the flraits dmiSired*^'"rK""'« P""' 'h "ugh Strait,. The imf^Sb^U '„f"'""= °^ ^*'4* the Atlantic OceanroneXfidr';?"''"^ '"'» ft^w, is therefore all tW^^ ' "'.'"""S'' t^efe fered to the reader's confide^?"' ''^'"."''' » "^of.. previoufly obferve that ,h. ? ?"•. ""•« «'« muft fleering'. Straits, was fou^f'^^ '° ""= """'"'^'"•d of from ice in Anguft than ?n i^, "' '° ■"= "-ore free fome part of Septemb^: ° •'"')'' ""d Perhap, in of «. But, after the ann," "'?'' ""^ "'» ™ore clear "f 'he days dim!;ift:j'?„'"J7» equinox. ""^'^S can be expefte,! ; and we « ''!' "° ^""her thaw bute fo great an ^ffea to the " ''""^'•^''ly attri- «rft fortnight of the mnirh f? ^"ther in the "nagine it capable of d.W°' ^fP'^-nf^r, as to moi? northern parV, of fhe'^^^^ i""' '« from the P"tting thi,, however tn k^ "^ America. Ad! leaft b? allowed. thaU^ Z m PT'"'' '' mnft at femp. to avoid the '"S'^ be highly abfurd to tnown part, of Baffin'^ Bav V^h'^"'""^ 'o the fcagues, or , 260 miles) i„ T^L^' ^'H'lnce of 420 as that paffage can hi ? ^°" =" 'Pace of tfme Onthefideof^Afiath.r "^P"'^'' 'o remain opeT of fuccef,, no?o„ ;fc'P«- «■" kfs probabS^Ty fcdge, relative to theaTtcof\^'T '° °°^know, »ard of Cape North, but ldcJ^/V° ""= *>«'h- Jave gathered from the 'vi,*^ '^ "'*»' *« nants under the direflion ofT '•"" °^ ">« K«te. Ml.of Shalauroff. rS°l^f!"»e' »?d the jour. I J*"*: But,- the'poB/ '^' »? 'he N. dSf si- I Sotth-eafteii, e«,^ y ^? f ,/»'!■»& round the ' ' °' •*"»» « undoubtedly proved ^«'. */ 2142 Cook's third and last Voyaqe proved by the voyage of DefhnefT, if its truth be admitted ; yet when we reflet, that iince the time of that navigator, near a century and a half has elapfed, during which, in an age of curiofity and enterprize, no perfon has yet been able to follow him, we can entertain no very great expedations of the public benefits to be derived from it. But even on the fuppofition, that, in fome remarkably favour- able feafon, a veiTel might find a clear paflage round the coaft of Siberia, and arrive fafely at the mouth of the Lena, ftill there remains the Cape of Tai- mura, extending to the 78th deg. of latitude, which no navigator has hitherto had the good fortune to double. Some, however, contend, that there are ftrong reafons for believing, that the nearer ap- proach we make to the pole, the Tea is more clear of ice, and that what mafles we obferved in the lower latitudes, had originally been formed in the great rivers of Siberia and America, by the break- sng up of which the intermediate Tea had been filled. But even if that fuppofition be true, it fs no lefs certain, that there can be no accefs to thofe open feas, unlefs this prodigious mafs of ice ihould be fo far difiblved in the fummer, as to admit of a (hip's making her way through it. If this be a real fa£l, we made choice of an isi|:roper time of the year for attempting to difcover ihis pafTage, which (hould have been explored in the months of April and May, before the rivers were broken up. But feveral rea- fons may be alledged againft'fuch a fuppofition. Our experience at Petropaulowjika, gave us an op* portunity of judging what might be expected far* thef northward ; and upon that ground, we ha^ fome reafon to entertain a doubt, whether the two continents might not, during the winter, be even joined by the ice *, and this coincided with the ac- counts we received in Kamtfchatka, that, on the coaft of Siberia, the inhabitants, in winter, go out 1 fron;i the ihore upon the ice, to diftances that ex^ contii partic ferred Tfchu they fj of veil theiki fWift Y in one ditions, a fuppoi njarkab port. 1 Jakutik, who wa and if t voyages, proper v out any 1 ftoe Simc difpatchei ^ l*o THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2143 ceed the breadth of the Tea, in Come parts, from one continent to the other. The following remarkable particular is mentioned in ihe depofition above re* ferred to. Speaking of the li^nd feen from the Tfchutfki Nofs, it isfaid, that, duiin^ the fummer, they fail in one day to the land in baidares, a kind of vefTel, formed of whale-bone, and covered with the fkins of feals ; and, in the winter, as they go fwift with rein-deer, the journey may be performed in one day. Mutter's account of one of the expe- ditions, undertaken for the purpofe of difcovering a fuppofed ifland in the Frozen Sea, is ftill more re- markable. His narrative is to the following pur- port. In 1 7 1 4 a new expedition was prepared from Jakutfk, under the condu6b of Alexei Markoff, who was to fet fail from the mouth of the Jana ; and if the Schitiki were not well adapted for fea voyages, he was to build, at a convenient place, proper veflels for proiecuting the difc ov'^ries with- out any great rifque. Upon his arrival at Uft-jan- fkoe Simovie, the port where he was to embark, he difpatched ah account, dated the 2nd of February 1 7 1 5, to the Chancery of Jakutfk, intimating, that it was impradicable to navigate the fea, as it was conftantly frozen both in winter and fummer } and that, confequently, the expedition could only be profecuted in fledges drawn by dogs. He accord- ingly fet out in this manner,' accompanied with nine perfons the loth of March, in the fame year, and returned to Uft-janlkoe Simovie on the 3d of the fucceeding month. The account of his jour- ney is as follows : that for the fpace of feven days, he travelled with as much expedition as his dogs could draw, (which in good tracks, and favourable weather, is from 80 to 100 werfts a day) to the northward, upon the ice, without obferving any ifland : that he was prevented from proceeding far- ther by the ice, which rofe like mountains in that part of the fea : that he had afcended fome of thefe, 3 whence - I 'i'l.'i 9144 Cook's thjrd and last Voy-age whence he could fee to a great didance around Lim, but could difcern no land : and that, at length, provifions for his dogs being deficient, many of them died, which reduced him to the neceility of returning. Befides the above-mentioned arguments, which proceed upon an admiilion of the hypothefis, that the ice in this ocean comes from the rivers, others may be adduced, which aiford good reafon for fufpe6ling the truth of the hypothefis itfelf. Cap- tain Cook, whofe opin'on, with regard to the for- mation of ice, had oi'ginally coincided with that of the theorifts we are now endeavouring to con- fute, found fufiicient grounds, in the prefent voyage, for changing his fentiments. Wc obferved, that the coafls of both continents were low •, that the depth of water gradually decreafed towards them, and that a ilriking refemblance prevailed be* tween the two ; from which circumftances, as well as from the deicription given by Mr. Hearne of the Copper- mine River, we have room for conjccluring, that, whatever rivers may difcharge then^felves into the Frozen Ocean, from the continent of America, are of a fimilar nature with thofe on the Afiatic iide ; which are faid to be fo ihallow at their en- trance, as to admit onlv veiTels of inconfiderable magnitude ; whereas the ice feen by us, rifes above the level of the fea, to a height that equals the depth of thofe rivers ; fo that its entire altitude mi^ft be, at leaft, ten times greater. Another cir* cumfiancc will naturally offer itfelf in this place to our confide* ation, which feems to be very incompa- tible with the opinion of thofe who fuppofe that land is necefiary for the formation of ice, we mean the different ftate of the fea about Spitfbergen, and of that which is to the northward of Beering's Straits. It is incumbent on thofe objedors to ex- plain how it happens, that in the fornver quarter, and in the neighbourhood of much known land, navigators navigai northei voyage efforts I con tine and W. exift in fatisfadli them tc world," formatic faftory i feas difpi Inord we beg I progrefs different purfuit ; fpedling ( nents, wl »7y8, wc to the lat and when tended as the whole drifting d med in be expeirienci would be noithwarc over towa of 69 deg in this trai %s and tl entirely t] we were a the latitud tempts to we were ii No. 75>. To THE Pacific Ocean, &c^ 2145 navigators annually penetrate to near 80 deg. c£ northern latitude ; whereas, on the other fide, no voyager h is been able to proceed with his utmpft efforts beyond the "^ift deg. where, moreover, the continents diverge nearly in the direftion of £• and W. and where there is not any land known to exift in the vicinit) of the pole. For the farther fatisfa last Voyage de^. obftruded by it in fuch a manner, and in fuch ^antities, that we could not pafs either to the N. or W. and were une'er the necefflty of running along t9yeottom, to (jnudj and land, intern ments of Oi r^,=t, andth POuly, m ™d a cur mh difficult jtieN. W. \ J«^e doubt not pmerous ir'n I., J ,,,To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2147 paflage towards the N. could poflibly be oi^awq from them. We found July much colder than Augui!ib> The thermometer, in the i ft of theA: months, w:^ once ac 28 deg. and frequently at 30 d€;g. whereai^ during the laft feafon, in 1778, it was very uncom- mon in Auguft, to have it fo low as the freezing point. In both feafons, we experienced fome high winds, all of which blew from the S. W. Whenever the wind was moderate from any quar- ter, we were fubjecl to fogs ; but they were obferved to attend foutherly winds, more confta&tly than i^ers. The llraits, between the American and ..ic continents, at their neareft approach, in lat. 66 deg. were afcertained by us to be 1 3 leagues, or 39 miles, beyond which they diverge to N. £• by E. and W. N. W. and in the lat. of 69 deg. their diiiance from each other is about 300 miles, or 109 leagues. In the afpecl of the two countries to the N. of the fltraits, a great refemblance is difcernible. Both of them are deftitute of wood. The Ibores are low, with mountains farther inland, riling to a great height. The foundings, in the midway ojb' the ftraits, were 29 and 30 fathoms, gradually ckr creafing ?<'. ^vf: approached either contment ; wltb this diffei> V,-, however, that the water was fom^ what ihuU'L'«vci on the coaft of America, than on that of Alia, ac ^u equal diftance from land. Th^ bottom, towards the middle, was ^ ibft iUmr mud; and near either ihore, it was a brpwnila fand, intermixed with a few fliells, and fmail frag^- ments of ftones. We found but little tide or cui>> reat, and that came from the W. But on the ^pth lof July, m the prefent year 1779, when in Ueer- ing's 8' .J MS, and peering to the fouthward, wc found a current fo ftrong as to make our paiTage both difficult and dangerous. It fet at thi» time to the N. W. We might to thcfe obfervations, which^ Iwe doubt not, will be highly acceptable to our very jaumerous friends and fubfcribers, add fome others ; 12 Qji but , 1 •v; li I 1 1248 Cook's THIRD and last Voyage /but we apprehend, they will think, with us, that it is now time to refume the narrative of our voyage, \irhich was broken off on the 3 ift of July, on which day, at noon, we had proceeded 1 8 leagues to Ae fouthward of the Eaft Cape. •85 s-as-: =»• CHAP. XIX. ON Sunday ^ the ift of Auguft, 1779, ^c ob- ferved in iat. 64 deg. 23 min. long. 1 89 deg. 1 5 min. at which time the Afiatic coatt extended from N. W. by W. to W. half S. diftant 1 2 leagues, and the land to the E. of St. Lawrence-bore S. half W. On the 2d, the weather being clear, we faw the fame land again, at noon, extendinp; from W. S. W. half W. to S. E. and forming feveral elevated hummucks, which had the appearance of feparate iflands; Our Iat. this day, at noon, we found to be 64 deg. 3 min. long. 189 deg. 28 min. and our foundings were 17 fathoms. We were not near enough to this land to afcertain, whether it was a group of iflands, or only a (ingle one. We had pafled its moft wefterly point in the evening of the 3d of July, which we then fupppfed to be the Ifle of St. Lawrence ; the eafternmoft we failed clofe by in September, the preceding year, and this we de- nominated Clerke's Ifland, and found it compofcd of a number of lofty cliffs, connected by very low land. Though thofe cliffs were mif^aken by us, laft year, for feparate iflands, till we made a very near I approach to the fhore, we are flill inclined to con-i jefture, that the Ifle of St. Lawrence is diftind from Clerke's Ifland, as there appeared between them a confiderable fpace, where we did not obferve the| lead appearance of rifing grourd, In the afternoon, we likewife faw what hacT the appearance of a fmalll ifland, to the N. £. of the land that we had feen air noonj panies < caught thorns V the cre\ Bank oi fprung we were it being On Tut in Iat. 5 patched compari intellige over by we hove a few W( man at .t This w< which, i of Beeri] at this reckonin] deg. 52 end dra^ cers wouj direfted,] with all To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 214^ noon, and which, from the thicknefs of the wea- ther, we had only fight ot once. We fuppofed its dift^nce to be 19 leagues from the Ifland of St. Lawrence, in the direction of N. E. by E. half £• On the 3d, we had light variable winds, and fieereJ round the N. W. point of the Ifle of St. Lawrence. In the afternoon, a frefli breeze rifing from the E. we fleered to the S. S. W. and quickly lofl fight of St. Lawrence. On Saturday, the 7 th, at noon, we obferved in lat. 59 deg. 38 min long. 183 deg. At four o'clock, having a dead calm, part of the com- panies of both fhips were employed in fifhing,.and caught a great number of fine large cod, in 1 7 fa- thoms water, which were diflributed equally among the crews. To this place we gave the name of the Bank of Good Providence, and as foon as the breeze fprung up, we made fail, and flood to S. W. but we were forced more to the eaftward than we wifhed, it being our intention to make Beering*s Ifland. On Tuefday, the loth, we were, by obfervation, in lat. 56 deg. 37 min. Friday, the 13th, we di(- patched a boat to the Difcovery, for the purpofe of comparing time, and fhe carried the difagreeable intelligence, that Captain Gierke had been given over by the furgeon. The weatjier falling calm, we hove to, in order to get fome fifh for the fick : a few were caught, and diflributed accordingly. Oi^ Tuefday, the 17th, at five o'clock, A.M. the man at jthe mafl-liead called out. Land to the N. W. This we imagined to be tlie Ifland of Mednoi, which, in the Ruffian charts, is placed to the S. £4 of Beering's Ifland. It is elevated land, and was at this time apparently free from fnow. By our reckoning, it lies in lat. 54 deg. 28 min. long. 167 deg. 52 min. Gaptain Gierke, now perceiving his end drawing near, fignified his defire, that the offi- cers would receive their orders from Mr. King ; and diredled, for the lad time, that we ^q^ld repair, with all convenient fpeed, to the Bayof Awatfka. The r 2150 Cook's third and last Voyage The wind continuing wefterly, we held on a fou* therly courfe, tillThurfday, the 19th, when, after a few hours continuance of rain, early in the morn- ing, it blew from the £. and became a ftrong gale. We made the moftof it, by (landing towards the W. with all the fail we could carry. On the 20th, the wind varying to the S. W. we fteered 2^ W. N. W. courfe. At noon, we obferved in lat. 53 deg. 7 min. long. 162 deg. 49 min. On Saturday, the 2 id, between five and fix o'clock, A. M. we de- fcried ^ very lofty peaked mountain) om the cpaft of Kamtfihatka, known by the name of Chepqon- ikoi Mountain, bearing N. W. by N. and diiiant near 30 leagues. At noon, the coaft was obferved to extend from N. by E. to W. with a very great hazinefs upon it, and diilanjt about 1 2 leagues. On Sunday the 22nd, at nine o'clock, A. M. a boat w^s fentoff to the Difcovejry, to announce to Captain Gore, the death of our commodorcj Cap- tain Charles Clerke, who paid the debt of nature when ii^ the 38th year of his age. His death was occafioned by a confumption, which had manifeftly commenced before his departure from {England, and of which he had lingered during the whole conti- nuance of the voyage. His very gradual decay had for a long time rendered him a melancholy obje^ to his friends ; but the firmnefs and equanimity with which he bore the flow approaches of death, the conftant flow of good fpirits which he retainea even to the laft hour, and a chearful refignation to the de- cree of heaven, furniihed them with fome confola- tion. It was impoffibie not to feel an uncommon degree of compafiion for a gentleman, who had ex- perienced a feries of thofe difficulties and hardlhips, which muft be the inevitable lot of every feaman, and under which he at laft funk. He was bred to the navy from his youth, and had been in many engagements during the war which commcncw'd in I 'i^bn In the adion between the Belluna and Cou- rageux. To THE Pacific OcEAK, &c. 2151 rageux, he was ftationed in the mizen-top, and was carried over-board with the maft ; but was taken up, without having received the leaft injury. He was midihipman on board the Dolphin, commanded by Commbdore Byron, when he firft failed round the world ; and was afterwards on the AmeHcaii ftation. In the year 1768, he engaged in a fecond voyage round the world, in the iituation of mailer's mate of tlie Endeavour ; and, during that exp6di<* tion, fucceeded to a lieutenancy. In the Refolution he made a third voyage round the world, in the capacity of fecond lieutenant: and, in a ihort time after his return, he was appointed mafter and commander. In the prefent expedition, he was appointed captain of the Difcovery, and to accom- pany Captain Cook. By the calamitous death of the latter, he fucceeded of courfe, as we have al- ready related, to the chief command. It wouKi favour of injuftice and ingratitude, not to mention, that, during the fho'rt time he was commodore, we always obferved him to be remarkable zealous for the fuccefs of the expedition. When the principal com- mand devolved upon him, his health began rapidly to decline ; and he was unequal, in every refpecfl, to encounter the fe verity of a high northern climate. The vigour of his mind, however, was not, in the leaft, impaired by the decay of his body : and though he was perfedly fenlible, that his delaying to return to a warmer region, was depriving himfelf of the only chance of recovery ; yet, fo attentive was he to his duty, that he was determined not to fuffer his own fituation to bias his judgment to thepfejudice of thefervice : he therefore perfevered in the fearch of a palfage, till every officer in both- (hips, declared they were of opinion it was impradbicable, and that any farther attempts would be equally hazardous and ineffedual. The meifenger who was fent to the Difcovety with the melancholy news of .)ur Commodore^i 2 death. 2152 Cook's third and last Voyage death, brought a letter from Captain Gore, con- taining an order for Captain King to exert his ut- moft endeavours to keep in company with the Dif- covery, and, if a reparation fhould happen, to re- pair as foon as poflible to St. Peter and St. Paul. At noon, we were by obfervation in lat. 53 depj. 8 min. long. 160 deg. 40 min. E. Cheepoonfkoi Nofs bearing W. On the 2gd, we fteered for the entrance of Awatika Bay, which we faw in the evening, at the diftance of 5 leagues. At eight o'clock-, the light-houfe, which now furnifhed a good light, bore W. N. byW. 3 miles diftant. It was now a perfe<5b calm, but, the tide being favour- able, our boats were Cent a-head, which towed us beyond the narrow parts of the mouth of the har- bour. On the 24th, at one o'clock, A. M. we dropped anchor, the ebb tide fetting againft us. At nine, we weighed, and before three, P. M. we anchored in 'the harbour of St. Peter and Paul ; having up our enfignhalf ftafF, as the body of our late Captain was in the veffel ; and the Difcovery followed us in a very fhort time. Both Ihips were moored in four fathoms water, muddy bottom. From the time we had fet fail out of this bay, till the prefent time of our retuin, we had been in no harbour to refit, and had been driven from ifland to ifland, and from one continent to the other, till ' our {hips had in a manner loft their flieathing, and were otherwife in a miferable condition ; we there- fore thought ourfelves exceeding happy in arriving at port. Soon after we had anchored, we were vifited by our old friend the Serjeant, ftill the com- manding officer, who brought withhlm a prefent of berries, intended for our late commodore. He was much afFe^ed at hearing of his death, and fee- ing the coffin that contained his remains. As the deceafed had particularly requefied to be buried on fliore, and gave the preference to the church at Paratounca, we confulted the Serjeant about the neceflary worthy To THE Pacific Ocean, 8:c. 2153 neceflary fteps to be taken on this occafion, who re- ferred us to the priel>, as being the perfon beft qua- lified to give us information on this fubjeft. At the fame time he Hgnified his intention of fending an exprefs to the commander of Bolcheretlk, with an account of our arrival •, when Commodore Gore begged to avail himfelf of that opportunity of con- veying a letter to him, wherein herequefled that 16 head of black cattle might be fent with all pofllble difpatch. At this time, we received intelligence of Sopofnicoff *s arrival from Oonalafhka, who took charge of the pacquet fent by Captain Cook, to the Admiralty, and which we had the pleafure to iind; had been forwarded. Wednefday, the 25th, in the morning, Captain Gore, in cohfequence of the death of our late com- modore, made out the new commiflions. Hehim* felf fucceeded to the :hief command in the Refo- lutiop ; and our lieutenant, Mr. King, was ap- pointed captain of the Difcovery. ivir. Lanyan, mafter's mate of the llefolution, and who had been in that cap?rity, in a former voyage, on board the Adventure, was appointed to the vacant lieute- nancy. In confequence of thefe arrangements, the following promotions took place. Lieutenants Biirney and Hickman (from the Difcovery) were appointed firft and fecond lieutenants of the Rcfo- lution ; and lieutenant Wiiliatnfon firft licutdhant' of the Difcovfcry. Captain King, by the permiilion of the commodore, took in four midfhipmen, who had rendeied themfelves ufeful to him in aftronomi- cal calculations; and whofe afliftance was become the more neceiTary, as we had not an ephemeris ifor the prefent year. 'And that aftronomical obferva- tions might not be negleded to be made in either fliip, Mr. Bayly took Captain King's place in the Refolution, for thefe purpofes. This day we were ;ittended by the Pope Romanoff Vereihagen, the worthy Priefl; of Paratoiinca. His cxpreflSons of JJo. 7$i. u R » forrpw 4 ?r54 Cook's thirp a^d j.ast VovACf / forrow for the death of Captain Clerke did honour %o his feelings ; but the good old gentleman, though much concerned, ^larted feveral difficulties, and appeared rather unwilling to comply with the re- queft of the deceafed. He. urged, among other objedions, that the church was foon to be pulled down i that every winter it was three feet deep in water i anpl that in a few years po yeftige of it would remain, as the new church was to be ereif^ed near the oftrog of Awatika, upon a drier and more con- venient ijjot. He therefore advifed, that the re- fnains bf our late commodore fhojuld be depolitcd at the foot of a tree, the fcite of which was to be included in the body of the new church, wherfe th^ bones of the captain might probably reft for ages undifturbed ; however, he fubmittcd the choice olF either place entirely to Captain Gore. Thefe rea- sons, whether real or fiditiOus, the officers who had charge o^ the funeral could not difprbve, and there- fore fome of our people had orders to dig the gravq where the prieft Ihould direct. The pifcoyery having fuffered great injury fron) the ice, efpeeially op the 23d of July, and conti- nued exceeding leaky ever ^nce, it was appre- hended that fome of her timbers might have ftarted ; pur carpenters were therefore fent^p affift thofe of ^he Difcovery in repairing her. ' To accommodate thofe who were to be employed onihore, a tent was ereflecl, and a party was fent into the country, porth of the harbour, to fell timber. The obfer- yatortes were placed at the weft end of the village, near which was erected a tent, as an abode for the! Commodore and Captain King. "When the carpen- ters began to rip the damaged ftieathihg from the, laiboand bow, it was difcovered, that three feet of the third ftrake were ftaved, and the timbers ftarted: knd as they proceeded, the decayed ftatc of t(ie ftiip'^s hiill 1>ecame more and more apparent. The fea fon being now far advanced, Captaip King .V •«' To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2155 Ti^as unwilling that any hindrance or delay fhould happen through himi, to Captain Gpre*s "Farther tiews of difcovery, and therefore ordered the car- penters to rip off no more of the Iheathing, than fhould be abfoldtely neceffary fcfr repairing the da- mages occafioned by the ice. He was apprehenfivc of their meeting with more decayed planks, which he thought had better remain in that ftate, than have their places fupplied with green birch, even fup- pofing it could be procured. All hands were now fully employed in their feparate departments, that we might be perfeftly ready for fea, by the time the carpenters had completed their bufinefs. Four men were fct apart to haul the feine for falmon» which were caught in immenfe quantities, and we found them of moft excellent quality. After the wants of both fliips were fufficiently fupplied, we daily falted down almoft a hogfliead. We had four invalids, who were employed in ga:thefing greens, and cooking for thofe who wefe afliore. We alfo landed our powder, in brderto have it dried. ; and the blubber of the fea-horfes, with which both fhips had completely furniflred themfelves, in otif paf- fage to the niorth, was now boiled down for oil^' and was become a very necefiary article, havrag- tong iince expended all our candles. The cooped was dlfo employed in his department. Both ihips cdiiipanies were thus engaged till Saturday, the 28thy. in the afterndoti, which was allowed to every man (except the carpenters) to waih their Unen, and get their clothes in tolerable order, that on Stinday they might make a decent appeairance; On Sunday, the 29th, we perforrated the laft af- le6Hng ofiices at the interment of Captain Gierke, bur late much rsfpe^ed commodore ; and to make the ^neral the more folemn, every officer was de» fired to appear in his uniform ; the marines were brdeted to be drawn up utider arms ; and the com- kkhoi zneD to be drofled as nearly alike as poi&ble,' • M H * in ll # vSm i ■ i\ f 1 ^ ■ r'|l jH f ' m\ 2i$6 Cook's third and LASt Voyage in order to attend the corpfe from the water-fide to the grave. All the KufTians in the garriCon aflem- bled on the occafion, afllfting refpeclfuUy in the folemnity, and the worthy pailor of Paratounca joined in the proceflion, walking with the gentleman who read the fervice. The fliips, at the fame time, fired minute guns, and the drums, muffled as ufual, beat the dead march. When the corpfe arrived at the grave, it was depofited under a triple difcharge of three vollies, fired by the marines, which con- cluded the burial fervice. When the grave was covered, it was thought proper to fence it in by piles driven deep in the ground, and afterwards to fill up the fpace inclofed with ftones and earth, to preferve the body from bein^ devoured in the winter by bears, or other wild beafts, who are remarkable for their fagacity in fcenting out the bodies of dead paffengers, when any happen to periih, and aro buried near the roads. This mournfiii ceremony be- in^ over, an efcutcheon was prepared, and neatly pamted by the ingenious Mr. Webber, with the captain's coat of arms properly emblazoned, and placed in the church of Paratounca. Underneath the eicutcheon was the following infcription. There lies interred at the foot of a tree, near the OArog of St. Peter and St. Paul, The Body of CHARLES CLERKE, Efquire, Commander of his Britannic Majeily's Ships, the Refolution and Difcovery ; To which he fucceeded on the Death of JAMES COOK, Efquire, Who was killed by the natives of an liland we difcovered in the South Sea, after having ex- plored the Coaft of America, from 42 dieg. 27 min. to 70 deg. 40 min. 57 fee. N< ' in fearch of a N. W. paflage from EUROPE to the , EAST-INDIES.' - The To THE Pacific Ocean, Sic. 1157 The Second Attempt being made by Captain Gierke, who failed within fome few ff Leagues of Captain Cook ; but was brought up by a folid body of Ice, which he found from the America to the Afia ihore, and almoft trended due Eaft and Weft*-He died at Sea, on his return to the Southward, on the 22nd Day of Auguft, i779» Aged 38 Years. Another infcription was affixed to the tree under which he was interred. This tree ftands on a little eminence, in the valley, north of the harbour, (and at fome diftance from the town), where the (lore- houfes and hofpital are fituated, and round which feveral Ruffian gentlemen had been buried; but none fo high upon the eminence as the fpot pointed out for the grave of Captain Clerke, and which Captain Gore fuppofed to be fuch a fituation, as was moft confonant to the wiihes of the deceafed. The inlcription, at this place, was nearly the fame as that in the church, and is as follows : Beneath this tree lies the Body of Captain CHARLES CLERKE, Efquire, Commander of His Britannic Majefty's Ships, the Refolution and Difcovry : Which Command he fucceeded to, on the 14th of February, 1779, on the Death of Captain JAMES COOK, Who was killed by the Natives of fom^ lilands hz difcovered in the South Sea, on the Date above. CAPTAIN CLERKE died at Sea, of a lingering Illnefs, on the zid Day of Auguft, 1779, 3 In the 38 th Year of his Age : And was Interred on Sunday, the 29th following. Oa ii^9 C6ori':J THiRD asd la^t VotAot % On this occafion the crews of both fliips were fufFercd to continue on (hore, and to divert th6m- felves, each as he liked beft. It was Captain Gierke's dedre that they ihould have double allowance for three days fucceffi/ely, and all that while to be cxcufed from every other duty, than what the or- dinary attendance in the fliip» required ; but the feafbn being far advanced, and a long track of un- known fea to traverfe before they could reach China^ the ofiiccrs reprefenting the hardfliips and inconve- niences that ib much loft timd might bring upon themfelvcs, they very readily gave up that part of - tht captain's requeft, and returned to their refjjec- * tive duties early the next day. Accorc^'ngly, on Monday the 30th, the feveral par^'es reaifumed their allotted employments; and on the 2nd of September,- ihc carpenters proceeded to rip off fuch of the fheathing as h \c\> been injured by the ice, from the ftarboard-fide ; having firft fhifted the damaged planks, and repaired and caulked the ilieathing of the larboard-bow. Four feet of the plank wtr? difcovered in the third flrake under the wale, fo Dnuch ihaken as to require to be replaced ; which was accordmgly done ; and on the 3d the iheathine was repaired. In the afternoon we got ibme ballaft on board j after which we unhung the rudder, and cauled it to be conveyed on fliore, the lead of the pinties being much worn, and a confid'^rable part of the flieathing rubbed off This day ?n ehfign ar- rived from Bolcheretfk, with a lett^f from the commander of that place to Captain Gore; from ^hich, by the affiftance of the ferjeant, we nnder- fiood, that proper orders had been given refpeding- the cattle ; and that in a few days we might e:(pe^ to fee them: to which was added, that Captain Shmaleff, ^who fucceeded Major Behnfi in his com- mand, would pay us a vijdt on the arrival of a floop' ivhiph he expected from Okotik. The bearec of the letter was a fon of Captain Lieutenant Synd^ who' 3 abou^' To THE Pacific Oc E A N, &c. 2159 abou.t eleven years ago, was appointed to the com- mand of an expedition on difcovery, between Afia and America, and now refided at Okotfk. He told us he was appointed to receive our dired;ions, and to fupply us with every thing that our fervice might require : that he Ihould remain with us, till it was convenient lor che commander to leave Bol- cheretfk ; and then he was to return, or the gard- fon would be without an oiiiccr. The RufHans, in Kamtfchatka, could not furnifh us wilh a better account of Synd than Mr. Coxe has given us ; though they feemed difpofed to communicate, with- out referve, what they really knew. From Major Behm we had received only this general informa* tion ; that the expedition had mifcarried, and that the commander had been cenfured. It was evident, that he had been on the coaft of America, fouth of Cape Prince of Wales ; and as he was too far north io meet with fea otters, which the RufHans feem to have in view in all their attempts at difcoveries, it is probable, that his return without having made any, from whence commercial advantages might be jreaped, was the caufe of his difgrace, and on that account his voyage is fpoken of with contempt by all the Ruffians. On Sunday, the 5th, all the par- ties that were on ihore returned to the fliip, and were employed in fcrubbing her bottom, aqd get- ting in fome fhingle ballaft. On Wednefday, the 8th, we hauled the Refolution on ihore, in order to repair fome damages flie had received from the ice, in her cut water. We began, about this time, to make a ftrong decodion from a fpeeies of dwarf pine, which is very plentiful in this country, judg-. ing it would hereafter be ufeful in making beer, and that we might perhaps be able to procure fugar, or a fubftitute, to ferment with it, at Canton. We knew, however, it would be an admirable medicine for the fcurvy, and therefore were particularly de- firoua qf procuriBg a confiderablc fupply ; ^8i moil "■ ■ ' ' ' 'of - If ^•' I 3 *■-«»: ■V ■ *'^* 21^0 Cook's third and a«t Voyage of the preventatives with which we had furnifhed ourfelves, were either confumed, or had loft their efficacy through long keeping. When we had pre- pared about a hogfliead of it, the fhip's copper was found to be remarkably thin, and that, in many places, it was even cracked. This obliged us to defift, and orders were given, that, or the future, it fliould \y: ufed as fparingly as poffible. Thofe navigators, who may hereafter be engaged in Jong voyages, would a^t judicioufly if they provided thennelves with a fpare copper, or, at leaft, they ihould be fully convinced, that the copper, ufually furniihed, fhould be remarkably ftrong and durable. Thefe neceffary utenfils are employed in fo many extra fervices, particularly in that important one of brewing antifcorbutic deco^ions, that fome fuch provision feems abfolutely neceffary ; and the for< mer appears the more eligible, becaufe a inuch gi'eater quantity of fuel would be confumed in heat- ing coppers that are very thick. Friday, the loth, in the morning, the boats from boththefliips wereorderedto towa Ruffian galliot in- to the harbour, which had juft arrived from Okotik. She had been no lefs than 35 days on her paflage, and, from theLight-houfe,hacl been obferved a fort- night before, beating up towards the mouth of the bay. 'The crew had, at that time, difpatched their boat on fliore, in order to procure water, which they much wanted ; but, the wind increafing, the boat was loft : the galliot was again driven to fea, and thofe who were paflengers fuffered, with the crew, inconceivable hardfhips. On board this gal^ Hot were fifty foldiers, with their wives and chiU dren ; they had alfo other paflengers, and the crew coiijGfted of 25 feamen, making, in the whole, upf wards of 100 perfons ; which, for a veflel of 80 tons, was a great number, efpecially as ihe was heavily laden with ftores and proviiions* This gaK> liot^ and the Qopp which we iaW here in M9y» ar^ 1 built after I hy a rived pUce. brpugi to the fl^rewd as ouri folutioi fliore,.^ P»^ch, She all amoiihi On the cher^tll hid arri iieliacf account to us ; entiUed being C( adraitte< ditibnall and qui< bett-ef'th that' ify ifiaihed ; to ehio^ corajman what cai and v^a^ <>f his/tf^ 'dU%ehc< ^^si ptf : m. to ;# • t H £ PACiFI fc 6cE ANj fefc, 2161 built in tjie manner, of the Dutch do^ger^i^. Soo/qi ^ after f,k^ velTel haiji c^me to incKorj >^e.wfcfe ;^|5t^<3^f by a Piit-parqucnicrh, or iub -lieutenant, wliof-ar- rivec) inhei*, ahdfeiittd take the command: of ibis ^l^qe. , $pme of the jToIdiers were intended .t6 rcinr forpc tlie gain ifpri J a^a two pieces of €a^nori wpe* brpiigbt o^ ](aore, Co ferve as an ^dcjUv^^i*^^ ^e got fofiic; pitc^, iify, cordage, and twii^e from fti.e gaJllVH.', She alfo furhiftied lis with 1401 JHinsof^ floury anipuiti'ng to i 3, 7 8 2 ^ngliffi poiib^s troy^-^ejight.! Oh the 12th, Enfign Synd left its to return to Bol-; cheret(k, with the remainder of the foldi^rs who ' had arrived in the jgalliot. Purjjtig^is abode Jbepji lie liaq bee^ purcqiiftant guejt ; ahp, op his ra^hfer's accourip, vi^etfrouffht him'ihfome (degree belonging to ^s ; and, 4s one of the lamiiy of diCcovertfrs^; entitled to a mare of our" efteeni. The ferj u, as being conimanjder of the plac^, had hitherto been admitted to pur tables ; and li^s comi^iny w?iS ad- ditionaHy weldpnie to Us, bFecitUife he '>^ai^ feb^ble and quick in his'^cOiiceptipnS ; aiid' cpmpreheruiedi beti;et' ton |any,ptiier peribn,'th^ EiuHani^ words that we'* ti^d acquired.' Whflft Enfigq Syndr^j inained amoflg us, he Very politely permitted hiin to €h\oy th6 faniic privileges ; but when thq new con^niandef ki*riVed,frptri Oko^fk j the feijeant. fpr what caufc we didtiot uhderftand, fell ihld qireTace. and wasf ho longer perniitted to lit m^^he cbinpanv 6f his/tf\Vrf 'ol^ccrs; Our €inidiea^ote to bt)^W.iii- "dtilgeAc6 /or hinj, i^e ^e^civfed ^diil^ ifave Bpe^ JndfeiSukl j'fbt, thdUgh highit agt-eciblc t^o W,ii 111 afsrpefhapi,int*(mipatible With their i^difcipJiiie. ' ,,OHWedne(d«j^, thci5i^ ' T ■'vl (4« • 2l62'COOK*S THIRD AND *L AST VoYAciB ftpwage of the hblds, got; our \v66i[l it|d ^^a^er on hkifB, and 'Were re^dy Foriea-, bm W6 cpuld foot. tRiiik of taking our departuft/ becati^e the cattle w6Ve nbtyk arriv^ed frorti Vekhnei j" khd frcfh pro- viifioiis were now become the |tnoft important arti- cle 6i bujj wants, and t^ctitiiWy nec^ffii7 frtr pfe- li^r'vin^' the heaifh bf our pejp>pte; irfiving toore lis'i J)rofpca of fine V^ea!thef , jve cqnfide^'ed this as a 'favourable b^piortufiity' tif engigi'rt^'ln' fptiib atiivifemenfc on fliore, and of acquiring fotne know- ledge of the country. A party /br b^at-hiinting was thei'efor^ projjofed by Captain GorC; and on F^lda/!,'thfe'i1&''We:fet but On this exjieclitfjiiij ;; whicp V^s deferVed to that day, in or^er to give a lettle reft to the Hpfpodin Ivalkiii, a new ac6uth of the river Pjjrar tounca, and which was a known haqat of the bears. "We had fcarce landed, when unfortunately the wind changed to the ^aftward, and deftroycd all hopes of coming; up with our game ; for the Kanitf- fhadales aiTur^a hs, that it was in vaiu to exped to , ^? S 2 «icet V <• . ; 2i(54 Cook's third and l'a$t Voyage K\ '&■■ niMt'with bicars, when to the ^Ijtidvyar^ Wf tfic'in 1 owing to thieir being ppflefl'e^i of an uncotirimon acqteners in fcenting thieir puifuefs, which enablecj them, ^fjder fuch circumi^ahpcs, to avoid the dan- fier,. though at a vpry great diftai^pe frbnl tHcin. ^e retv|rne|il therefpie to tlie'boajt, iiid pifled the pig^^ 9rt the bcplchV nayjng bi-pught a tjcnt \f^ith ijg for that pjiqiofe. Thp next morning, being the J 8th, yi'e croiied the l^ay, aipd purfiied our Coui fe .on foot alpnop' a plain, abounding wUl| berries, or, >vhic|i' the bear? feed | but tjiqugn feyeral of thefe aniipals ^yere feeri at, ia diftance, we tbuld lievev jcbnfriye, the we^^ther being fhd\viiy itid iinfavPi^i- abje, to get within ihot of thenij TJius difap- poihted again, we changed our djverfirtn to that of fpe^nng falniori, whicf we fa^v puihin^ ii) grea^ numbers thrpugh the furf into a fmall river. For- tpnately tfee water afforded iis a little prpviiioii ; for in fuccels had not only attended us in the chace by l^hd, bu^ we had failed in our expe^latipns of ihpoting wi)d-fowl, after having almoil depended jToIely upon' a fupply of them for our fubfiftence j and on its failure, wefiegan to think it ^ime to re^ turn tp head quarters. Thefe fehtiments entirely cdrrpfppnded With thofe of the Hofpodin, whom fpl-iiier feventies had rendered unjible to endure fa- tigue." On Sundayi the 1 9th, at night, we reached the fliips j after haying been full 1 2 hours upon our jegs. Poor lyafkin ieemed perfectly overcome with fatigue, and was probably the more fenfibly affected by it, for >yant of a fupp|y of ifiiuflF; for, ajmofl at eyery (tcp, his hand' luiik' mechanicaliy into his ^o(i|?et,and rqfe ipilantly'ag^ih with His Jiuge empty l)ok.\' ' yi^lien arHvecl at the ten^, the Hofpodin's box' was immediately replenifhed, and, regaling jippq a good tupper, weforgot the fatigues and dif appointments of our fruitlefs excurilon. '' On Mopday, the 20'th, we received the cjifk^ree- abie intelligence, that our mucli elleemed friend* the heavy fetting GUI manded tl ing; and faluted hii f^s cnterti ^Yo THE Pa CtFl C O'CE A N, &C. 2t^$ the ferje»nt, had^fiiiFei'ed corporal punifhdntnt, which had been inflicted on him by command of the old Putparouchick. None of uis could iearn the paufe of his difpleafure; but' it was fUppOlbd t0 have atnfen^ from fpme Irttle jealoiify, whieh had been ej^cited by Out* ^civility to the formal*. Wc were i^i^ willing to remonilrate oh thisiliibje^, tiU Captain ShiVialefF (hould arrive $ however,' when we were n^xt vifitcd by the Put- parolichick, the cool- nefs with which wc received htm, muil have te(^ifietl|e arrival of a -floop from Okotik ; but hearing nblfi- telligence of her, and fearing we ihould fail before he {lad yiiited us, he was reiolved to profecute the journey, though he had noMiing to prefent to us but apologies for tlic poverty pf Bolchefetik. At the fame time he informed us, that the reafon of our not haying received the black cattle, was, that the heavy raihs at Verchnei, had prevented t)ieir fetting out. So much generoiity and politenefs de- manded the beft anfwer we were capable of mak- ing ; and on coming on board the next day, we faluted him with ii guns. Friday, the 24^,. he ^'38 eatertfiiqed on bdard the Diii:oyery y and' Uie .3 ■ '; ■; ■ •\'-; day a;l€^ Cop It'? T ill R p^ A N p. I.A sir. V QXf g e .d^yfpMowingt being tlic 2jlth, h^, returned tp Bol- cher/etik^ No, iptrcatiies could prevail on him to ex- tend; his vifit, having, as he arffurcd ySj^ ibme.exr pje^ations that the fiib'^governor-generaliUtpuid r ar- ii-ive in ;]the ilpop expejSed fi-opi ;Qkotl)i, he bjeing on a tour through all the; prpv^njcesof |h«)gPvernDr- gcn,e^alof JakUtlk. WMhqut any application ivom us, hereinftated thp ferjeant in his conimaQdy bc- Ibre his departure, having re/olyed to.take theJPui;- pATouchipk with h^0i. : ;We alfoundfirftood, that fie was. ;much oflTended witM fcifn for puniilking the Jeyjeant, as/there didtnot ^pjesaiTi to fee thtiftg even thb bomraiffipped officers. Imprifon- ^]bei)C»i anc} hre^dand wiccc dieb> is] the pumthment To T hi Pacific Oceat, &c.^ 21^7 K of the latt^f fotiiVconfiderabli offences. A good fHend 6f biirs,; ah etifign in this plabe,' informed us, th'at 'thd t5Uhifliiiient lie received' for having been concerned in a drunken frolic, was three month^ irnprJforrttient in' the black hole, with a diily allow- ance only (if 'bread and watei' f6r hi^ fublfift^ncCv which fo affedtdd^his nervous fyfterti, that he has ncvdr finxfe enjoyed a ftiffidetitilow of fpirits ta qualif / bifil for a convivi^ meeting: Captain King attended Captain ShmalefFas far as the entrance of AWatfka rivef, and, hiving tiiken leavfe of him, embraced that opportuiiity of vifittng the prkfl of Paratotinca;"':'^' 5 "^••'-'\'^^"*^'^ '^' -'''^*' ^^f^"'' On SiindaAl", the 25th, Ca^Jtitiri King attended hint' to his qhuVtfS, where his whole congregation con- firtcd of ' His'ipwn fahiHyi threes men, and the fame niimbet bf "bdyS, who' aflifted in the finging; and the whole of the fervice was performed with great fo|feninit?f and devbtion. 'Though' the* chnrcH islof* Woo'd, 'It is 'rhtich fuperioi' to hn^y bthei-' edifice, either iii 't^^ 'town, or that' of St. Peter and St v Paiil?' !Aniori^ feveJiV paintings witli which it is' ornariie^tedi arc*tW6 pidures of St. Petfer andStJ Paul, the Apoftlesi prefented by the navigator, BeerJngl and which may vie with the firftEuroV peair"^3rf6rminces,' in theintrinficrichhefs ofthetr draperies, the principal parts thereof bfcing co'fti* prtifed of fhitk plates of rear folid filvfci^j ftofafliioiied a^ to frrit^ktc the foldings of the rohtes "Which' deeoi rate the/ figured, and fixed upOn the canvafs. Mori- da^, tfhe'i ft h, '<^ks tperit by anoth'er'pkrly in the 4iWfi6n of*' b6a¥*hurit?^ ;' -When Captaiii King fu!«t!M hilWBf t6 tht'^ireftidns of the pariftii, ckirlii' ^^0' had^c^iiirdd grtat reputaiiion as-a bea* huti^erl ' About fon-fet th^^ arrived ^t dh^'oft ehd latg^bf^lalcfe^, where' It Wsisdfe^n^diwectifl^yfJOiicohi ceat thethfelvcs ; anc^ this wis effected tafiiy afmoiig ibme long'gtaf?, and bru(h-Wood;' ot^ whiiijhf* we iaw'^eat pletfty%tiir thib %^t«i^*« ed^t Wc^had tvot c ^'^^ been I •i'ii^' ■' tj^i^r long un/d^ pur covert, b^fpr^ pur ears wyrt ag^e^abJy ffihited vU?i tlxe giio^Myli^ig pjFj bes^i^s, m a^mdl cvoiryj quarter .i:ouncl f^ooi^jt ^s ; an4^ we foon *>ad thcpleafwre, pf bj?hpi!dinftq|iq:,o^f\^hci^,.iii tlie Vi^atep;^ fwimming in a dire^.courfe, to >f(^hef'e we lay conceaMlr; Ajc^itMsi tiiyiiethe ihfippn^^^Of^e^ la as to ^brd a conljclV^e iigl\t|^ apd as t|^e bear ad- Vanc|^cVt(?ward^^^8, th^ecfiof ysj^i^red at.it3f- alinoli at ,tj}e[ lame injian^. J^fnpdiajt^iy the, animal turned fbf)rt on one ftde« aira iet upa mpft hoiTiblc no)A3> which was neither yef ling, grdwHng^ nor r<>ariDg, bu^ a vei;y. ^Cr9Qix(tiii4ry jni^ttiije pf ths whole three. 'We could eafily perceive, .thfit the) ipoake a hideous ifoiije. > 1 ne K^mtrchaq^es fujppofed k, to be /inprtally wp^ndecf $ jbut judgfed it ^n a(fl of impirildAngg, jQ:;attef»pie to rpuw it f g^p io^^edi- ^t^ofyi^ U was th^ri fP,ine p^clqcfc.t Jjftd a? tjbe i^jight became ^yercaft, :^ind a ph^nge pt WfjU^ie|:;W^.to !»€ Apprehi^nded, we thought it adyifip^blgrJoreliurB hom^i andiw^it t^ll morniog for the gfafjl^tfpn of QKr.£uiiQAty<,.when we accordingly repairi^ (9[^^C fycxU an4i found the bear deid fmin, t^e wcmni^ it btelireemfd*! It waj^ a fcmjil^j an^ iaj^g^ir i^Jki^,^he oi»di5ary;fige4,i)iMh ^iTfti Jj;ab:ihq of^'j ils^itf^m,-:'' I) oThfei accouat pf ipur hu;^tii^g pa^ty; i^f t . conS^ey a^ vmng,id€a ;o| -the n^Jthqd pprfue^ ^to%i mi, th**'' %prt; to prevent >yhich, it may; not -be amifs tol mbjoin a few words to tbis, fEi,b|€^. • The iiative^ mensr^My ^ntrivc to reacji ^hc g^p^nd a^ii|t/unJ ik* wh«re the >J^«^ J^feHf frf qwcmtf Tj^>jr W lo«^ 0U6 for th^ir, tracks, .am;! j^ttend p^rtic^idarly tol tiie frsfteft oC thcin ^ alw^ysi paying a fcgatdto M ^tuvtton, wHh refpeS to cofn^es^ei^t ; and taMiigJ wmmlii t^t> animal as it pailes by» or ^dvaAce^, o^j goes from tbei|i. TJ^fe .^rad^s arf liumei^US be^ rn.Lxf ' . SfflftODji ^ s ^ I ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ I llilli 111 ill i! I'll! I!:! Il' ii<''l ' >l II l> i ! "i''iiiii!''':"i"i'iiiiiii'i'i'i"'iiii"i"'ii^i"^ III To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2169 among the long fedgy grafs and brakes on the margin of the water. Having determined upon a conve- nient fpot for conceaiiiAent, the hunters fix their crutches in the ground, on which they reft their firelocks, pointing them in t; proper dire^ion. They afterwards kneel or lie dow n, as the circum- fiances of their fituation may require ; and, having their bear-fpears in readinefs by their iide, wait the arrival of their game. Thefe precautions are ex- tremely neceflary^ that the hunters may make fure of their mark : for the price of ammunition is fo high at Kamtfchatka, that the price of a bear will not purchafe more of it than will load a mufquet four or five times. It is much more material on another confideration ; for, if the firft {hot fhould not render the bear incapable of purfuit, fatal con* fequences too frequently enfue. The enraged beaft makes immediately towards the place from whence the found and fmoke ifTue, and furioufly attacks his advprfaries. They have not fuificient time to re- load their pieces, as the bear is feldom fired at till he comes within the dillance of 1 5 yards ; therefore, if he fhould not happen to fall, they immediately prepare to receive him upon their fpears; theic fafety depending, in a great meafure, on their giv- ing him a mortal dab as he advances towards them. Should he parry the thruft (which thefe animals are fometimes enabled to do, by the ftrength and agility of their paws) and break in upon his opponents, the conflict becomes bloody; for it is feldom that the lofs of a fingle life will fatisfy the beaft's revenge. Tl\is bufinefs, or diveriion, is particularly dangc- tou$ at two feafons of the year: in the fpring, When they firft iflue from their caves, after having fubfifted the whole winter (as it is here pofitively aflerted) folely pn fucking their paws ; and efpecially if the froft ^ould continue to be fevere, and the ice in tjie lakes is not broken up ; as they cannot then have recouirfe to their cuftomary and expeded fopid* Thus becoming exceedingly famiflied, they No. 80. 12 T grow I' ' i|fi, 111 V /T ilfo CdOK^S fHIRb AND LASt VoYAGt grow fierce attd favage in proportion ; purfoing tfte* inhabitants by the fcent *, and prowHng about at 3 diftance from their tifual tracks, dart upon them unawares, tinder fuch circumftances, as the na- tivcs have no idea of fhootrng %ing, or running, tx in any manner without relling their piece, they often fall a facrifice to their favage rapacity. The time of their copulation, is the other dangerous feafon to meet with them, and that is ufually about September. Many inftances of natural afFeclion in thefe animals are frequently related by the Kamtf- chadales, who hence derive confiderable advantaged in hunting. They never prefume to fire at a young bear if the dam is upon the fpot ; for, if the cub ihould happen to be killed, fhe becomes enraged to ^n immoderate degree ', and, if fhe can only obtain a fight of the offender, fhe is fare to be revenged of him, or die in the attempt. On the other hand, if the mother fhould be fhot, the cubs continue by the fide of her after flie has been a long time dead \ ex- hibiting, by affecting gcftures and motions, the moil poignant affliftion. Th^ hunters, inflead of commiferating their diftreffes, embrace thefe oppor- tunities of deftroying them. If the varacity of the Kailntfchadales may be depended on, the fagacity of the bears is as extraordinary as their natural affec- tion. Inmiirierable are the flories which they re- late to this effed. They likewiCe acknowledge in- finite obh'gations to the bears, for all the little pro* grefs they have hicherto made in feveral arts. They confefs themfelves indebted wholly to thofe animals for all their knowledge in phylic and furgery ; that, by obferving what herbs they have applied to the wounds they have received, and what methods they have purfued when they were languid, and out of order, they have acquired a knowledge of moft of thofe fimples which they have now recourfe to, cither as external or internal applications. But the hiofl fingular circumflance of all is, that they ad- 2 mit mit ( the e beyon jchada anima dancei thofe J fedioE bear. On from h as it h part of and be iiraint, compan commo( departu: out of nefs to f OnFi gale of but, on harbour, a quarte for us, the cattl< men mig fooable fii commodo five or fia far from and riggin pair. Caj ufe the CO ing fuppli was enable laft the cr onal punc fupply was •'4^' To THE Pacific Ojci^an, &c. 2171 mit the bears to be their dancing-mafters, though the evidence of our own fenfes places this matter beyond difpute ; for in the bear-dance of the Kamt(^ ichadales, every ge^ure and attitude peculiar to that animal, is faithfully exhibited. All their other dances are flmilar to this in many particulars^ and thofe attitudes are thought to come neareft to per* fec^ion, which moft re^mhle the motions of the bear. On Tuefday, the 28th, Captain King returned from his excurfion to the ihips^ not a little pleafed, as it had afforded him an opportunity of feeing a part of the country, and of obferving the manners and behaviour of the people, when under no re- ^raint, evidently not the cafe when they were in company with the Ku/lians. On the 30th, our {Commodore went to Paratounca ; but, before his departure, ordered Captain King to get the fhips out of the harbour, that thvey might be in readi- nefs to fail. On Friday, the ift of Odober, we had a violent gale of wind, which continued the whole day; bi^t, on the 2nd, both fhips warped out of the harbour, and anchored in 7 fathoms water, about a quarter of a mile from the oflrog^ Fortunately for us, the day before we quitted the harbour, the cattle from Verchnei arrived i and that the men might have the full enjoyment of this fea- fonable fupply, by eating it whilfl it; was frefh, the commodore determined to flay in our prefent fixation five or fix days longer. This time, however, was far from being mifapplied ; for the pumps, fails, and rigging of each fhip, received an additional re* pair. Captain King having obtained permifiion to ufe the copper belonging to the Relolution, and be* ing fupplied with molafles from Captain Gore, he was enabled to brew a fufficient quantity of beer to lafl the crew a fortnight, and to make ten additi- onal puncheons of ftrong fpruce eflence. This fupply was the more acceptable, as our lafl cafk of 12 T 2 /pirits '2172 Cook's thtad and last Voyage f|Mrits yfzs now ferving out, except a fmall quantity . referved for cafes of emergency. The 3d being the name-day of the Emprefs of Ruflia, we were cordi- ally difpofed to fhew it every poffible refpe^V. The ^paftor of Paratounca, Ivalkin, and the feijeant, - were invited to dine with us ; and an entertainment was prepared for the two Toions of Paratounca, ' and St, Peter and St. Paul ; as well as for the in- ferior officers of the garrifon, and the moil refpe6ta- ble of the inhabitants. All the other natives were invited to partake in common with the fhips com- panies ; a pound of excellent beef beiiig ferved out to every man, and the reinainder of oiir fpirits was made into grog, aind diftributed among them. Twenty-one guns were fired upon the occafion ; and confidering we were in a very remote part 6f the £mprefs's dominions, the whole feftivai was conduced in a manner not unworthy fo illuilriou's a chara6ler. On Tuefday, the 5th, we received a freih fupply of tea, fugar, and tobacco,, from Bol- cheretik. Captain ShmalefF having met this pre- fent on his return, he tranfmitted a letter with it, informing us, that the floop from Okotfk had ar- rived in his abfence, and that Madame ShmalefF had inftantly difpfttched a courier with thefe few articles, requefting our acceptance of them. On the two -following days we were prevented from unmooring by reafon of foul weather ; but on Friday the 8th, all the boats were hoifted in, and wc failed towards the mouth of the bay; when the wind, veer- ing to the S. obliged us to drop anchor, the oftrog bearing N. diftant half a league. On the 9th, at four o'clock9 P. M. we again unmoored ; but as we were raifing our laft anchor, we were informed that ^e drummer of the marines had fled from the boat of the pifcovefy, which had juft left the village, and that he had lately been feen with a Kamtlcha- dale woman, to whom he was known to be much Attached; and who had importuned him frequently (d fiay befaibd. This m^u was entirely ufelefs in t ^ . . ... the thefe and more becon iians. partiej ibme i the ne womar Difcov iution. Havi Peter 2 and th( to our f the fafef difcover world, t then, 1 51 min. : bight of Gavareea N. The former N the Cape < the coaft about 1 1 ] rocks, anc of bays an grounds w the entran bears E. N. fide is flat j aHy to a CO Gavareea is Terence of together wi( per guides t I ^ard J and I ^ard, Cheej To THE P*«'FrcOcEAH.&c. thefervice. being ,amed bv a f n- '^ «ore unwilling tj 1^^^?*'^" P"^ ^»'tbe' become a mjfefable burthe^f^'?"'^' '«« ''^ ftouW fiws. He therefore applSl'.° 'T'^"^ '""^ 'he Ru ft Partiw of his men ift^Z^,°j¥ f^Oeanc to fen-i ome failors vifited a welTC ''V''" '»^''»'™e. tie neighboarhood. whe' ,». "? ''*""' «' h's ia woman were found ^.«U ' n™?'" ^'- '«'' ""^ ,^|^^ver, weighed anch^o^Tnd fSftTSet PeSTnl Tvtr, °'"- *"^' ''^P''«»re from S. fnd the adjoimWcoa'ft T""' '' Awatft^ Bay- to our friendly refders • efZ''- m°' '^ ""^ceptabfe the fafeftand moft extenfi ^If""'' " «' 's. perhaos d^overedi and thf rnf;;^;';^^!.^" ''^^^'» Jks, and. in ma„ part?'/ ?^^''' '"«■» and of bays and inlets ; but nA '^""' ^" appearance grounds was feen t^ com °? f-n"?'". Wroach. W eaVp'r? °^ A'^^&a Bay'cS'''-'''''''- From . fide , fl ^ *^:.*ft="" '7 leagues ^-^fPr*°" '^"'"s "ae IS flat and low wift.i,^f', ^"eftoreonthi. W ^^' i' 52 deg. 2 1 min Jt^ '^'^^^^^ «^ Cape fcrence of the land on rhl rP'' ''^^^'^kabJe df^^ - ogcther with their diCnt|5^^^ °^ Awatfo Bay , per guides to fleer forT? hearings, are very Dm' p^ard, Cheepoonfkoi NoKcotl''^"' ''^^ "^^h- ous ,«I74 Cook's third and last Voyage . pus ; it being a high projeding head^Iand, and is ]anited to the continent, by a large extent of level ground, lower than the Nofs. We are rather par<- ticular in defcribiqg this coaft ; for if we had pofTefr fed a good account of its form on both fides of Awatika Bay, we ihould, when we firft viiited it, )iave arrived two days fooner than we did, and con? fequently have avoided part of the tempeftuous weather, lyhich we experienced in plying off the mouth of the harbour* Beiides, as the fogs are fo prevalent ip thefe feas, it often happens, that an pbfervation for aCcertaining the latitude cannot be taken. It ihould alfo be confidered, that land makes a very deceptive appearance when covered with fnow, or when viewed through a hazy atmofphere ( both which ciicumftances render it neceflary for every navigator to be acquainted with as many dif- criminating obje6ls ^s poilible. Should the weather be fufficiently clear to admit a yiew of the moun< tains, both on the coaft and its peighbourhood, the iituation of Awatika Bay m^y be precifely known, by the two high mountains to the S. of it. That neareft the bay is in form of afugkf loaf: the other, more inland, is flat at top, and not quite fo high^ Thei e are three very cpnrpicubus mountains to the K. of the bay: that fartheli to the W, appears to be the higheft ; the next, a volcano-mountain, may readily be known by the (moke ifluing from the top. The third is the hioft northerly, and might, with fome propriety, be called a clufler of mountains, as it prefents feveral flat tops to our view. When we got within the capes, and into the outward b^y, a light-houfe on a perpendicular head-land, pointed out the entrance into the harbour to the N, Many funken rocks lie to the eaftward of this head-land, firetching two or three miles into the fea, and when this or a (well are moderate, they will always fliey themfelves. To the S. of the entrance, about 4 miles diftant from it, lies a fmall round ifland, com- pofed chiefly of high pointed rocksj one ojf which lay top. ;ith as we (any pd, [ben ley It 4 )m-l ich is lar the t miles part; recHon miles i ofRak Peter a cinlka J A narrc the botl entrano by a fho; general, would h for this ferable tc broad, ai tafterljr d But oi ^e have Six fhips r and ftern, for giving of this hai neck, whe "el is onl; fathoms ai , feven fatho however, /i of the groi and occafio "P- At th p/ace. Off Nithin the hj^. ftore, h J To fteer cle; M large deta( france, tnui 1'^' In ordei To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2175 is larger, and more perpendicular than the reft« The entrance into the bay is, at firft, about three miles wide ; one mile and a half in the narroweft part ; and it is four miles long, in a N. N. W. di- rection. Within the mouth is a noble bafon, 20 miles in circumference, in which are the harbours of Rakoweena tc 'le E , Tarcinlka to the W. and St. Peter and St. I . ■ the N. The breadth of Tar- cinika harbour ks ti. . miles, and the length twelve. A narrow neck of land feparates it from the fea at the bottom, and it ilretches to the £. S. E. The entrance of the harbour of Rakoweena is impeded by a fhoal in the middle of the channel, which, in general, makes it neceffary to warp in, unlefs there mould happen to be a leading wind. Were it not for this circumftance, this harbour would be pre- ferable to the other two. It is one mile and a half broad, and three miles long, running in a S. £. and eafterly diredion. . ' But one of the moft convenient little harbours we have feen, is that of St. Peter and St. Paul. Six ftiips may be commodioufly moored in it, head and ftern, and it is, in every refpeft. convenient for giving them any kind of repairs. The S. fide of this harbour is formed by a low, narrow, fandy neck, whereon the oftrog is built. The mid chan- nel is only 270 feet acrofs, in which there was fix fathoms and a half water. The deeped within is feven fathoms, over a muddy bottom. We found, however, fome inconvenience from the toughnefs of the ground, which often broke the melTenger, and occafioned fome trouble in getting the anchors up. At the head of this harbour is the watering- place. Off the eaftern harbour is a ihoal, and within the entrance a fpit, ftretching from the S. W. (hore, having only three fathoms water over it. I To fteer clear of the latter, a fmall ifland, or rather a large detached rock, on the W. fliore of the en- trance, muft be (hut in with the land to the S. of lit. In order to fteer clear of the former, the tnree needle li iif6 CoOk's third akd last Voyaob needle rocks, near the light-houfe-head, on the E. ihore of the entrance, mulV be kept open with the head lands to the northward of the firft fmall bend- ing on the £. fide of the entrance. As you come into the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, and ap- proach the village, it is very neceflfary to keep near the eaftern fhore, to avoid a fpit which firetches from the head-land, to the S. W. of the oftrog. Let it be noticed, that th6 obfervatories were placed on the W. fide of the village of St. Peter and St. Paul ; and from the fun's meridian altitudes, and of five ftars to the N. of the zenith, we found the latitude to be 53 deg. 38 fee. N. and its longi- tude, from 146 fets of lunar obfervations, to be 1 58 deg. 43 min. 16 fee. £. At full and change of the moon, it was high- water at 36 min. after four ; and five feet eight inches, was the greateft rife. The tides were regular every twelve hours. It may be proper to obferve further, in this place, that the time-keeper on board our fhip, which was copied exaftly from Mr. Harrifon's by Mr. Kendal, ftop- ped on the 27th of April, a few days before our firft arrival in Awatfka Bay. During the voyage, it had always been carefully attended to, not having been trufted, even for a moment, in any other hands than thofe of Captain Cook and Captain King. No accident, therefore, could poflibly have happened, to which its Hopping could be attri- buted i nor could it proceed from intenfe cold, the thermometer being but very little below the freez- ing point. When the failure of the piece was firft difcovered, the Commodore and Captain King con- fulted about the meafures to be purfued ; whether they Oiould fufier it to remain in a ufelefs fiate, or fiibmit it to the infpe^lion of a feaman on board, who had been regularly bred a watch-maker in Lon- don, and who had given many fatisfa£tory proofs of his fkill in that profe/Iion, in repairing feveral watches upon t he voyage. Having experienced the accuracy accui unwi fides, alreac as w< years firft cJ time-| captaij appear was ni and hi were e: Were ir dial-pla teeth c to whi( buted. ing It v freedom ceived ( the tim< to get it clock; ^ had gon( more tha ped agai its havin fore nov adjufted, the watcl tor, brok ^ring, b wards, th ufelefs. as we wei as we we the i 111 pro ioufne(shi i^o. 80. To THE Pa CIFIC OqB AN, &C« 41 77 accuracy of this time-piecfc, we were extremeljT unwilling to be deprived of its advantages. Be- fides, it ihould be confidered, that the watch had ■ already been fufficiently tried to afcertain its utility, as well in the former voyage, as during the three years of our having it on board : therefore, on the firft clear day after we arrived in Awatfka Bay, the time-piece was opened, in the prefence of the two captains, Gierke and King. No part of the watch appeared to be broken ; but as the watch-maker was not able to make it go, he took off the cock ' and balance, and cleaned the pivot-holes : thefe were extremely foul ; and other parts of the work were in the fame condition. Upon taking off the dial-plate, a piece of dirt was found between <;wp • teeth of the wheel, that carries the fecond hand, to which caufe its flopping was principally attri- buted. After putting the work together, and oil- ing It very fparingly, the watch feemed to go with freedom and regulaiity. Capitain. King having re- ceived orders to go the next day to Bolcheretlk, the time-keeper was left with Mr. Baily, in order to get its rate, by comparing it with his watch and clock ; who informed him on his return, that it had gone very regularly for fome days, not lofing more than 1 7 feconds a day ; and afterwards flop- ped again. This we fuppofed to be occafioned by its having been badly put together. It was there- fore now a fecond time opened; and when agaia adju(led, it gained about a minute a day; when, the watch- maker in attempting to alter the regula- tor, broke the balance- fpring. He made a new ipring, but the watch went fo irregularly after- wards, that we were obliged to lay it afide as quite ufelefs. The honeft mechanic was as much vexed as we were at our ill-fuccefs ; not fo much owing, as we were convinced, to his want of fkill, as to the improper tools he had to work with, and the cal- ioufnels his hands had contracted from his employ- No. 80. 12 U . ment 1 1 1 1178 Cook's THIRD AND ast Voyage ment as a mariner. We (hall now proceed, to give a corred ajt^d perfe^ geographical and natural nif- tory of the Peninftila of Kamtfchatka. Kamtikhatka h fituated on the eaftern coaft of Afia. It attends from 52 deg. to 61 dcg, N. lat. the long, of its extremity to the S» being 1 56 de^. 45 min. The iflhmus, that joins it to the conti- nent on the N. lies between tne gulphs of Olutorik and Penfliinik. . Its extremity to the S. is Cape La- |Kitka. The whole peninfola is fomewhat in form ^ a fiioe ; and iCs greateft breadth is a 36 computed itiileis, being from the mouth of the Tigil, to that «f the river Kamtfehatka ; and towards each ex- ttemity, it gradually becomes narrower. On the N. it is bounded by the country of the Koriacks ; by the N* Pacific Ocean to th< >. and £. and by the i^ bf Okotlk to the W. A chain of high moun- tains (Kxtfends the whole length of the peninfula, frbm N. to S. and almofl equally divide it -, whence feveral rivers take their rife, and make their courfe into the Pacific Ocean, and the fea of Okotik. The . three principal of thefe are, the Bolchoireka, or great Hver, the Kamtfchatka, and the river Awat- &a. to the N. W. of the mouth of the Kamtf- thatka, lies the giet lake Nerpitfch ; from Nerpi, a feal ; that lake abounding with thofe animals.. A '\ fort, called Niflinei-Kamtfchatka Otirog, is fituated about 20 miles up the river, where an hofpital and , barracks have been built by the Ruffians ; and this - place, weunderftood, is now become the principal mart in the country. ■ ' Wfcre we to judge of this country from what we faw of its foil and vegetable productions, it appears to be t^arren in the extreme. Neither about the bay, nor in our journey to Bolcheretlk, nor in any of our hunting excurlions, did we ever perceive . . the fmallcft fpot of ground, that had the appearance ■ Tsf a good green turf, or that fccmed capable of \ improvement X \ ; fi 1 nrv ,. .■■t>. *' :■■*% I »> impro furfac refenul howe\ %; i of the many ( tity of is mow is part being ( with K the CO! ichatka chat of dimate, proporti perhaps beginnir ihow, fr of Augi trees, an the heig] remaindc tember, the new hills. Iq certainly tend froi Septembe from whi( dreary wi cent to t rene and under the ever, atrci of the fizz ftock of d the moiftu To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 3179 improvement by cultivation. Indeed, the wholf furface of the country, in 9, moft ftriking degree, refembles that of Newfoundland. At ParatouQCs^ however, we faw fome ftacks of moft o^cellen^ hay ; and Major Behm aiTured U9, that the bankf of the Kamtichatka, and the Biftraia. as well at many other parts of the peninfuU, produce a quan«> tity of grafs, of great ftrength and height, whichi is mowed twice in every fummer, and that th9 hay is particularly adapted to the fattening of C^tlle^ being of a very liicculent quality. Thig agreeiF with Krafcheninicoff's account, who relate^, thai the country which borders on the fiver Kamtr fchatka, is much fuperior, in point qf fertility, tQ that of either the N. or S. The feverity of thf climate, it may naturally be fuppofed, mi|ft be in proportion to the flerility of the foil, of which it in perhaps the caufe. We firft faw thig country in t\^p beginning of May, 1779, when it was cQVCred with fnow, from fix to eight feet in depth. On the %4th of Auguil» when w^ returned, the foliage pf the trees, and vegetation in general, appeared to be ill the height of perfe&ion. The weather, durifig th^ remainder of that month, and the whole pf Sep<^ tember, was not fevere ; hut when October began, the new fallen fnow again covered the tops of the hills. In computing the feafons here, Spring Ihpi)l4 certainly be omitted. Summer m^y be faid to e^^t tend from the middle of June, till the middle of September. October may be conQdered as Autumn ; from which period to the middle of June, it iv all dreary winter* The climate in the country adja- cent to the river Kaintfc)ia'-ka} is faid to be a^ ie-r rene and temperate, a^ in jiany parts of Siberis^ under £he fame latitudcr The inhabitants, how*! ever, ire fomctimes prevented, by the liqcertainty of the fummer feafon, from providing a fufficient; ftock of dried 6ih, for their food in winter ; find the moifture of the air occa(ions worm^ tq ^reed ia , ?2 U 2 . . them. < '.! II 11 8o Cook's third awd i.ast VoyaGe them, which frequently deftroy or fpoil the greateft part. The fevcrity of the winter, and the dread- lul hurricanes of wind and fnow which attend it, oWigc the natives to retire to their fubterraneous habitations, both for their fecurjty and warmth. We had neither thunder nor lightning during our ftay at Kamtfchatka, excepting on the night of the eruption of the volcano, 'n this jjeninfuia volca- noes are numerbus ; but only three have lately been fubjeft to eruptions. That in the neighbourhood of Awatfka wehave already mentioned. The volcano of Tolbatchick ig fituated between the river Kamtf- chatka and Tolbatchick, on a neck of land. The eruptions proceed from the fummit of a high mou>i- tain, which terminates in pointed rocks. On the top of the mountain of Kamtfthatka, fuppofed to be by far the higheft in the peninfula, is the third volcano. Springs of hot water are faid to abound in this country. • The principal trees which fell under cur notice, were the birch, the poplar, and the alder ; feveral fmall fpecies of the willow, and two forts of dwar^ filh cedars. One of thefe forts grows upon the coaft, feldom. exceeding two feet in height, and creeping on the ground. Of this our eflence for beer was made, and proved to be very proper for the piirpofe : the other, which grows much higher, $s found on the mountains, and bears a kind ot nut or apple. Of the birch which appears to be the moft common, we remarked three forts. Two of them were large- and fit for timber ; differing from each other only in the colour and texture of the bark. The third is of a dwarfifh kind. The na- tives apply this tree to a variety of ufes. When tapped^ it yields "a liquor in great-abundance, which they drink without mixture,' or any kind ofprepa- rationi as we obferved frequently in our journey to Bokheretfk. We drank feme of it ourlelves, and fcii^nd it plcafant and refrelhing, though fomewhat JfurgBjtive. The bark they convert into yeffels for ; ^omeftic To THE Pacific Ocian, &c. 2181 domeftic purpofes ; and from the wood of this tree are made their fledges and canoes. Not only the birch, but every other kind of tree, in the neigh- bourhood of the bay, were ftunted, and very fmall : the natives therefore are obliged to go a confidera- ble diftance up the country, to get wood of a pro- per fize for their canoes, their balagans (or fummer- houfes) and many other purpofes. This peninfula likewife produces great abundance of the (lirub kind, as mountain a{h,junipers,rafpberrybuflies, and wild lofcs. AUo a vaiiety of berries, as partridge-ber- ries, blue-berries, black-berries, cran-berries, and crow-berries. Thefe are preferved by mafhing them into a thick jam -, and they conftitute a confiderable part of their winter provifions, ferving as a general fauce to their dried iifli. They alfo eat them in puddings, and make decoctions of them for their common beverage. We found here large quanti- ties of wholefome vegetables in a wild (tate.^ fuch as chervil, garhc, onions, angelica, and wild celery. We alfo met with fome excellent turnips, and tur- nip-radiflies, upon a few fpots of ground in the Vallies. This was the utmoft of their gardea cultivation : yet, this account of vegetables only relates to fuch parts of the country as fell within our obfervation : near the river Kamtfchatka, where, as we have already obferved, both the foil and cli- mate are the beft in the peninfula, garden culture is attended to, and perhaps with fuccefs ; for, with the fecond drove of cattle which we receive^ from Verchnei, we slfo received a prefent of cucumbers, celery, fome large turnips, and other garden vegeta- bles. Two plants are produced in this peninfula, which muft not pafs unnoticed. The firft is called by the natives farana, which grows wild and in great quantities. About the beginning of Auguft, many women are employed in colleding the roots, which, after being dried in the fun, are preferved for ufe. It is a maxim with the Kamtfchadales, thac Providence ;f )■ I I' %iH^ Cook's thikd and last Voyagi Frovidence never defeits them, for the feafon that IS prejudicial to the farana, is alway favourable for fiining ; and, on the contrary, an unfuccefsful fi(h* ing month, is always amply compenfated by an exuberant farana harveft. This article is variouily employed in cookery. When roafied in embers, it is a better fubflitute for bread than any thing the country produces. When baked in an oven, and pounded, it fupplies the place of flour and meal, and is mixed in all their foups, and many other . diflies. It i§ extremely nourifiiing, has a pleafant )»itter flavour, and may be eaten daily without (!oying. We partook of thefe roots, boiled as ue do potatoes, and found them very agreeable. The name of the other plant is oweet Grafs. When at its full growth, it is about Hx feet high. This plant was formerly a principal ingredient in cookery among the natives i but fince the Huflians have been in poiTeflion of the country, it has been chiefly ap- propriated to tlie purpofe of diHillation. The liquor extracted is called raka, and has the flrength of brandy. Seventy-two pounds of the plant, pro- duce 25 pints of raka. A vulgar well-known plant remains to be noticed, ab being more eflential to their fubfiilence than all which have hitherto been mentioned : this is the nettle ; which, as neither hemp nor flax arc produced in this country, fup- plies materials for their fifhing-nets ; and on whici; their exigence principally depends. Many parts of this peninfula would probably ad* mit of fuch cultivation, as might contribute to the comfort and convenience of the inhabitants ; yet the number of wild animals it produces, muft al* ways be confidered as its real riches ; and no labour can be confidered fo productive of advantage, as what is employed upon its furrieries. And next to thefe, the animals that fupply them are ^eferving of attention. Thefe are the fox, the zAiline, or fable, the iioat, Q.r eriPUie, the ifatjg, or arftic .' , ■■ '• -— -- - r- fox. couni colon theE fliinir dark- 4 but tl Some others white qualit] fame a much thickej hood ( finer bl faid to being f i^terioi A riJ and a i fable hi] them, \ round in refuge ^ into the the fmo value; a is ncglei ways bee the begii colour, I fuffer us marmot, much ia mal, fcec To THi Pacific Ocea^, &c. sl8} fox, th« earlefs marmot, the varying hare, the ^^Tea^ (el, the glutton, or wolverene, the wild ^iheep, tht rein-deer, wolves, bears, and dogs. The moft ge>> neral objeds o^ the chace are foxes, with which this country abounds, and among which are a variety of colours. The moft common fpecies is the fame as the European, but their colours are more vivid and ihining. Some are of a dark chefnut ; others have dark-coloured ftripes ; the bellies of fome are black, but the other part of the body is of a light chefnut. Some are wholly black, others of a dark brown^ others of a ftone colour, and fome few are entirely white ; the lall, however, arc very fcarce. The Quality of their fur is much fuperior to that of the lame animals in Siberia or America. The fables are much larger than thofe of Siberia, and their fur is thicker and brighter ; but thofe in the neighbour* hood of the rivers Olekma and Vitime, arc of a finer black. The fables of the Ti/jil and Ouka, are faid to be the beft in Kamtfchatka ; a pair of thefe being fold frequently for five pounds fterling. The inferior forts arc found in the £outhern parts. A rifle barrel gun, of a very fmall bore, a net, nnd a few bricks, are the whole apparatus of tl«c fable hunters. With the firft they fometimes ihoot them, when feen on trees : the net is ufed in fup> rouniliag hollpw trees, in which they ufually take refuge when purfued ; and the bricks are put hot into the cavities, in order to drive them out with the fmoke. The (kin of the arctic fox is of little value ; and, on the fame account, the varying hare is neglected. They are very numerous, and al- ways become perfedily white during the winter. la the beginning of May, we obferved feveral of this colour, but they were fo extremely (hy, as not to fuffer us to come within gun-fhot. The earlefe marmot, or mountain rat, is a beautiful creature, much imalier than a fquirrel ; and, like that ani- mal, feeds upon roots and berries?. Its ikin is of high i 111 • 1 Hil*l , vable, that bitches are never employed in this bufi- nefs, nor dogs that have been caftrated. The whelps are trained to the draft, by being faftened to fiakes with leathern thongs, which are elaftic ; and having their food placed beyond their reach, by continually pulling to obtain it, they acquire (Irength and a ^abit of drawing; both of which are eflentially neceflary for their deflined labour. We muft not omit, in our catalogue of animals, the wild moun- tain fheep, or argaii, unknown in all parts of Eu- rope, except thofe of Corfica and Sardinia. Its ikin refembles that of a deer's, but, in its gait and gene- ral appearance, it nearer approaches the goat. Its head is adorned with two large twilled horns, which, when the animal is full grown, weigh fometlmes from 25 to 30 pounds, and are refted on the crea- ture's back when it is running. Thefe animals arc remarkably fwift and active, frequent only the moft craggy and mountainous parts, and traverfe the fteepelt rocks with an aftoniftiing agility. Spoons, cups, and platters, are fabricated by the natives of their horns ; and they often have one of the latter hanging to a '^r^lt ; which Icrves them to drink out of, when on Taeir hunting expeditions. This is a giegar'ous creature, extremely beautiful, and its flelh is r-^^'ct, aiid delicately flavoured. Of liiort.iiern fea-fowl, ahnoft every kind frequent the coiil and bays of Kamtfchatka, and among others the ier. eagles. The inland rivers are plenti- fully ftored with various fpecies of wild ducks ; one ot which, called by tiic nativcn a-an-gitche, has a No. 8c. 11 X moll M- :: [:: ) i-i ^ a.iB6 Cook's third and last Voyage • iBoft beautiful plumage. Its cry is equally lingular and agreeable. 'Another fpecies is called the moun- tain duck. The plumage of the drake is remark- ably beautiful. A variety of other water-fowl were ften, which, from their magnitude, appeared to be of the goofe kind. We obferved, in pafling through the woods, forhe eagles of a prodigious fize, but of what fpecies we could not poflibly determine. It is faid, there are three different kinds. The firft is the black eagle with a white head, tail and legs : the eaglets of which are perfedly white. The fe- cond is improperly called the white eagle, though, - ip reality, it is of a light grey. The third is the ftone coloured eagle, which is a very common, fort. There are great numbers of the hawk, falcon, and buftard kind in this peninfula. Woodcocks, fnipes, and groufe, are alfo found here. Swans are very numerous, ai?d generally make a part of the repaft at all public entertainments. The vaft abundance of wild fowl, in this country, was fufllciently mani- feft, from the many prefents we received, confiding frequently of twenty brace at a time. We iaw no amphibious animals on the coaft, except feals, and thefe were extremely numerous about the bay of Awatil^a. The fea-otters found here, and tLafewe met with at Nootka Sound, are exactly the fame ; and have already been particularly defcribed. They were formerly in great abundance here; but (incc the Huflians have opened a trade with the Chinefe for their ikins, where they bear a price fuperior to any other kind of fur, the hunters have been in- duced to be fo indefiitigable in the purfuit of them, that very few remain in the country. They are flill found in the Kurile Iflands., though the number is inconfiderablc. Fifh is the main article of fubfiftence among the inhabitants of this peninfula, who cannot poflibly derive it cither from agriculture or cattle. The foil, indeed, affords fome wholefome roots, and every eve of of J oeh< don fibly eoui iifes. and oil ai of th whah abunc At on ^bove fea-trc about in Jarg theft i tJf exc( calks \ alone t fuftenail middle The firfl is the la half is t proporti from go that wcr it was could pc cuftom ai in the mi many fup fort of i I pounds, h I a^emble t 1 ; lar m- ik- rere )be ugh but line. fiift Legs I lefe- >vigb, IS the '. fort. I, and nipes, : very repaft idantc mani- ififting aw no , and ay of Die wc fame; They t fincc :hinefe rior to en in- them, ey are umber ing the )ofllbly The 5, and every 1 To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2187 every part of the country produces great quantities of berries ; but fifli alone may be called their ftaflf of life, with more propriety than bread in any other country; for neither the inhabitants, nor their domeftic animals of the canine fpecies, could pof^ fibly exift without it. Whales are common in this country, and when taken ferve for a variety of iifes. After cleaning tbier inteflines, drying them, and blowing them like bladders, they depont their oil and greafe therein. Excellent fnares 4re made of their nerves and veins j in fliort, no part of the whale is ufelefs in this peninfula. We caught abundance of fine flat fiihj trout, and herrings. At one haul, on th6 15th of May, we dragged out ^bove 300 flat filh, befides a coniiderable quantity of fea-trout. The firft herring feafon commences about the latter end of May. They vifit the coaft in large fhoals, but continue no coniiderable time. Thefe fifli are excellent, as are alfo lara;e quantities df exceeding fine: pod; and many of our empty Cafks were filled with the former. But notwith? ftahding this abundance, it is on the falmoh filhery alone that the inhabitants depend for their wint^^r fuftenance. The fiihing feafon begins about the middle of May, ahd continues to the end of June, The firfl fhoals that enter the mouth of the Awatika* is the largeft and moft efteemed. Three feet and a half is their ufual length ; and they are iiiorfi than proportion ably deep : their average weight being from 30 to 40 pounds. We had one of the firlk that were taken, but not without being told, that it was the higheft compliment the Kamtibhadalea could poflibly confer upon us. It was formerly a cuilom among them to eat the firft fiih they caught^ in the midft of great rejoicings, accompanied with many fuperftttious ceremonies. There is a fmaller fort of falmon, weighing from about 8 to 15- pounds, known by the name of the red fifli, which aifembie in the bays, and at the mouths of the ri* 12X2 " - vers. fi h! 'M I ' p: P fh 3188 Cook's third and last Voyaox vers, early in the month of June. From this time till towards the end of September, vaft quantities of them are taken upon the eafiern and weftern coafts, where the fea receives any freih water, and alfo up the rivers, almoft to their very Iburce. All the lakes which communicate with the fea abound with fiOi, which have much the appearance of fal- mon, and weigh ufually about five or fix pounds. The natives, we underdand, do not think it worth their labour to catch them. Thefe lakes being ge- nerally fhallow, the fifti become an eafy prey to bears and dogs, in the fummer feafon \ and from the quantities of bones appearing upon the banks, vaft numbers of them feem to have been devoured. The natives dry the principal part of their falmon, and fait but very little of it. They cut a fifli into three pieces. The belly-piece is firft taken off, and then a ilice along each iide of the back bone. The former, which is efteemed the beft, is dried and fmoked : the other ilices are dried in the air, and are either eaten whole as a fubftitutefor br^ad, or pulverized forpafte and cakes. The head, tail and '^ones, are dried, and preferved for their dogs. The inhabitants of Kamtfchatka may be divided into three clafles ; the Kamtfchadales, the Huifians a- \ CoiTacks, and a mixture produced by their in- t .rmarri^ges. The Kamtfchadales are a people of re- mote antiquity, and have inhabited this peninfula for many ages ; and they doubtlefs defcended from the Mangalians ; though fome have imagined they Iprang from the Tongufian Tartars, and others from the Japanefe. The Ruffians, having made them> felve^ mafters of that vaft extent of coaft of the Frozen Sea, eftabliftied |)ofts and colonies, and ap- pointed commiffaries to er.plo^-e and fubjedl the! countries ftill farther to the E. They foon difco- vered that the wandering Koriacs inhabited part of the coaft of the fea of Okotik, and they found noj difficulty in making them tributary. Tiiefe not be- ' ingl nou but< 164J thei ■Kam of c< dired order beyoi many into TigX and pi hebui inga^ with \ the yej volt o this CO maflacr /uia. ' ioft, in try had as popu fmali-po them, b' f^ry, ari Prague ; tirpation died by ( Kurile ifl bitants o away J o] day. TJ] 4watika, Plctely in .\ To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. sitf ing at a great diftance from theKamtfchadales, witk 'whom they had frequent intercourfe, a knowledge of Kamtfchatka muft naturally follow ; and the ho« nour of the firll difcovery of this peninfula is attii- buted to Feodot AlexeielF, a merchant, in the year 1648 ; but a Coflack, named Volodi er AtlaiToffis the unqueilionable firft acknowledged diicovererof Kamtfchatka. He was fen', in 1697, in the capacity of commiflary from Jakutlk to the Anadirik, witk dire^ions to call in the Koriacs to his aHifiance, im order to difcover, and make tributary, the countries beyond theirs. With fixty Kuflian foldiers, and as many Coffacks, he penetrated, in the year 1699, into the heart of the peninfula, and gained, the Tigll. In his progrefs he levied a tribute upon furs, and proceeded to the river Kamtfchatka, on which he built an oftrog, now called Verchnei } and leav- ing a garrifon of 1 6 Coffacks, returned to Jakutlk, with vaft quantities of valuable tributary furs, in the year 1700. Since which time to the grand re- volt of the Kamtfchadales in 1731, the hifltory of this country prefents an unvaried detail of revolts, mafl'acres, and murders, in every part of the penin- fula. Though a great many of the inhabitants were loft, in quelling the rebellion of 1731, yet the coun- try had afterwards recovered itfelf, and was become as populous as ever in 1767 i at which period the fmallpox was, for the firfi time, introduced among them, by a loldiet from Okotik. It bruke out with fury, and, in its progrefs, was as dreadful as the plague ; feeming almolt to threaten their entire ex- tirpation. Twenty thoufand were fuppofed to have died by this loathfome diforder in Kamtfchatka, the Kurile iflands, and the Koreki country. The inha- bitants of whole villages were fometimes fwept a\yay; of which fufiici€nt proof remains to this day. There are eight ofirogs about the bay of Awatlka, which, we were informed, had been com- pletely inhabited, but now they are all become de- a folate, I > ■it 1 at^ft Cook's TniHD akd iast Voyage fchee, except St. Peter and St. Paul ; and only feven Kamtfchadales, who are tributaries, refide in that. At the oftrog of Paratounca only 36 native inhabitants remain, including men, women, aiid children ; though it contained 360 before it was vifited by the i'mall-pox. We pafled no lefs than four extenfive oftrogs, in our journey to Bplche-^ retfk, which had not a (ingle inhabitant in either of them. We were informed by Major Behm, that thofe who at this time pay tribute, including the Kuriles, do not exceed 3,000. The amount of the military forces, in five forts, is about 400, includ- ing Ruilians and Coflfacks. Nearly the fame num- ber arefaid to be at Ingiga ; which, though in the N. of the peninfula, is under the command oif Kamtfchatka. The Ruilian traders and emigrants are not very coniiderable. The government, eftablifhed in this country by the Ruiiians, confidered as a military one, is re^ snarkably mild and equitable. Th^ natives are per- mitted to elecl their own magiftrates in their anti- tnt mode. One of thefe, called a Toion, prefides Over each oftrog, to whom all differences are refer- jred. In feme diftricls, the only tribute exacted is ^ fable's fkin •, and in the Kuriie iflands, a fea ot- ter's; but as the latter is confiderably more valua- ble, the tribute of feveral perfons is paid with a lingle ikin ; a tribute fo inconfiderable can hardly be confidered in any other light, than that of an acknowledgment of the Ruiiian dominion over them. But the Kuilians are not only to be com- tnended for the mildnefs of their government ; they are alfo entitled to Approbation for their fuCcefsful endeavours in converting the natives to Chriftianity, there being now but very few idolaters remaining $mong them. If we fofm a judgment of the other xniflionaries from the benevolent paflor of Para- tounca, more fuitable perfons could not poMbly be engaged in this bufinefs. The ri furs; comp Twel ce privil( medal fur trj CofTac what t i"efide i the trj TThis bi barter, I'eady r being < nirs pn few arti tity of both pl( quantit^ri but as t] any thir of entert as troub diverted deck. C chant, fo portion f »ng they perceiving afterward l^urope; ported, bi *nanufadi Siberia, B chiefly coi f^ockings, pieces of , To THE Pacific Ockan, &c. ^191 The exports of this country confift entirely of furs ; and this bufinefs is chiefly conducted by ^ company of merchants, appointed by the emprefs. Twelve was the number originally, but three have f ..ce been added. Befides a charter or grant of privileges, they are diftinguifhed by wearing a ^Id . medal, expreiuve of the emprefs's protedion of the fur trade. There are other inferior dealers, chiefly Ooflfacks, in different parts of the country. At what time the principal merchants remain here, they teiide either at Bolcheretik, or the Niflinei ofirog ; the trade centering wholly in thofe two places* This bufinefs was formerly carried on in the way of barter, but every article is at prefent purchafed with ready money, no inconfiderable quantity of fpecie being circulated - in that wretched country. The furs produce a high price; and the natives require few articles in return. Our failors brought a quan- tity of furs from the coaft of America, and were both pleafed and aftonifhed on receiving fuch a quantity of lilver for them from the merchants ; but as they could not purchafe gin or tobacco, or any thing elfe that would afford them any degree of entertainment, the roubles were foon confidered as troublefome companions, and they frequently diverted themfelves by kicking them about the deck. Our men received thirty roubles of a mer- chant, for a fea-otter's fkin, and in the fame pro- portion for others ; but the merchant underftand- ing they had great quantities to difpofe of, and perceiving they were unacquainted with trafHc, he afterwards procured them at a much cheaper rate. Europeai* articles ire the principal that are im- ported, but they an; not folely confined to Rufliaa maniifaftures. They come from England, Holland, Siberia, Bucharia, the Calmucs, and China. They chiefly confift of coarfe woollen and linen cloths, ilockings, bonnets, and gloves ; thin Perfian filks, pieces of nank(^co, cottons, handkerchiefs, both of t 1} s ^ ^ A ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 1.25 *u lU 12.2 £ 1^ 12.0 M ^lii& <- Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRAIT WnSTIR.N.Y. MSSO (716) •73-4503 <> v\ ti^i Cook's t^iird and last Voyage of (ilk and cotton » iron* ftoves, brafs and copper pans, filesyguns, powder and (hot ; hatchets, knives, looking-^weSy fugar, flour, boots, &c. Thefe commodities, we obferved, fold for three times the Ibm they might have been purchafed forinEngbnd. Andy notwithdandtng the merchants have io ex- travagant a profit upon thefe imported goods, they receive ftill a greater advantage from the fale of the fiirs at Kiachta, a confiderable market for them on the frontiers of China. In Kamtfchatka, the beft iea>otter fkins ufually produce about thirtv roubles a-piece; at Kiachta, the Chinefe merchant gives more than double that price, and difpofes of them again at Pekin for a much greater fum ; after which, an additional profit is made of many of them at Japan. If, then, the original value of a (kin at Kamtfchat- ka is thirty roubles, and it is afterwards tranfported to Okotfk, theice by land 1 364 miles to Kiachta, thence 760 miles to Pekin, and after that to be tranfported to Japan, what a lucrative trade might be eilablifhed between Kamtfchatka and Japan, which iu not above three weeks fail from it, at the utmoft P It may be neceflfary to obferve, that the piincipal and mod valuable part of the fur trade, lies among the iflands between Kamtfchatka and America. Beerin^ firft difcovered thefe in 1741, and as they were found to abound with fea-otters, the Ruflian merchants fought anxiouCy for the other iflands feen by that navigator, S. £. of Elamtf- chatka, named in MuUer's Map the iflands of St. Abraham, SeduAion, &c. They fell in with no lefs than three groups of iflands, in thefe expedi- tions. The firft, about 1 5 deg. £. of Kamtfchatka ; another, 12 deg. £. of the former; and the third, Oonalaflika, and the neighbouring iflands. Thefe mercantile adventurers aifo proceeded as far as Shumagin*s Iflands, of which Kodiakis the iargeft. But here tbey met with fo warm a reception, for attcmptinij to compel the payment of a tribute, that they To THE Pacipic Ocean, &c* iip^^ they never ventured fo far again. The three groups before-mentioned, however, were made tributary. The whole fea between Kamtfchatka and America is, according to the Kuilian charts, covered with iflands } for, as thofe who were engaged in thefe expeditions, frequently fell in with lane*., which they fuppofed did not tally with the fituation laid down by preceding adventurers, they immediately ' fuppofed it to be a new difcovery, and repoited it accordingly on their return ; and, as thefe veflels were ufually out three or four years, and fometimes longer, fuch miftakes could not immediately be re£ti%d. It is pretty certain, however, that only thofe iflands which have been enumerated, have been difcovered in that fea by the Ruflians, S. of 60 deg. latitude. The fea-otter ikins, which are certainly the moft valuable article in the fur trade, are principally drawn from thefe iflands ; which be- ing now under the Huflian dominion, the merchants have factors refiding in fettlements there, for the fole purpofe of bartering with the natives. To ex- tend this trade, an expedition was fitted out by the admiralty of Okotlk, to make difcoveries to the N. and N. £. of the above-mentioned iflands, and the command of it given to Lieutenant Sy nd. But, as this gentleman dire<5led his courfe too far N. he * did not fucceed in the object of his voyage ; for, as we never found a fea-otter N. of Briflol Bay, they, perhaps, avoid thofe latitudes where large I amphibious fea-animals are numerous, The Ruf'* ifians have not (ince undertaken any expedition for making difcoveries to the eaiWard ; but they will, probably, make an advantageous ufe of our difco- very of Cook's River. Notwithftanding the gene- ral intercourfe between the natives, the Rumans, and Coflacks, the former arc as much diilinguifhed .•. from the latter by their habits and difpoAtion, as |by their features and general figure. As the perfons of the nitives have already been No. 80. 12 Y delcribed. 2194 Cook's tHiRD and last Voyaice defcribed, we (hall only add, that, in their ftatiirc« they are below the common height, which Major Behm attributes to their marrying fo vei-y early ; both fexes ufually eng:iging in the conjugal ftate at 13 or 14 years of age. They are exceedingly in- duftrious, aftd may be properly conti afted with the Kuflians and Coffacks, who frequently intermarry with the.il, apparently, for no other reafon, but that they may be fupported in lazinefs and floth. To this inaAivity may be attributed thofe fcorbutic complaints, which moft of them ate dreadfully affli^led with ; whilft the natives, who exercife in the open air, entirely efcape them. Their habitations confill of three diftind ("orts j jourts, balagans, and log-houfes, which are here Called ifbas ; they inhabit the firft in the winter, and the fecond in the fiimmer ; the third are introduced by the Ruffians, wherein only the wealthier people fefide. The jourts are thus conftru<^edi A kind of oblong fquare is dug about fix feet deep in the earth ; the dimenfions niuft be proportioned to the numbers who are to inhabit it, for it is ufual forfe- veral to live together in the famejourt. Strong wooden pofts, or pillars, are faftcned in the ground, at equal diftances from each other, on which the beams intended to fupport the roof are extended ; which is formed by joilhs, one end of which reft upon the ground, and the other on the beams. Between thejoifts, theinterftices are tilled up with wicker-work, and turf is fpread over the whole. The external appearance of a jourt, refembles a round fquat hillock. A hole, Icrving for a chim- «cy, window, and door, is left in the center, and the inhabitants go in and out by the affiftancc of a j hjng pole, havmg notches deep enough to afford a little feciirity for the toe. On the lide, and even I with the ground, there ia anoiher entrance, appro* pi iatcd to the u(c of the wotncn ; but if a man paifes in ur out oi ihii door, he becomes as much V an „ •'■*••*■ il' ,.14 iiMiii^lPi^ ^mmm^ !*i;'*^"^!!?C"^'- ■a. ■m ■ : i ; t •1 ■,* 1 1 Jt ' J'" ■ i an o throu ?parti Platfo Sdes, groun which with n and, uteniiJj ments, to the i the mr confide hot as i their joi tinue in half ex[ fixed inti difiances 1 2 or 1 3 the grou fecurely iaid upoi pletes th( of a conii long pole end, and whole is c kind of g] doors, pla which the areufedii left entire and other the winter, ther in oa^ more than Urc thus c To THE Pacific Ocean, nent, to which the inhabitants afcend by a ladder placed in the entry for that purpofe. Each apart- ment has two fmall windows made of talc, and, •among the, inferior people, of fiih-fkin. '^'he boards and beams of their habitations, are fmoothed only vnth a hatchet, for they are {^rangers to the plane; and the fmoke has rendered them of a deepihining black. In Kamtfchatka, an oftrog is called a town, and confifts of feveral houfes or habitations of the vari- ous kinds above-mentioned. Balagans are con fi- derably the moil numerous ; and it is remarkable that we never faw a houfe of any kind that was detached from an oftrog. There are, in St. Peter and St. Paul, feven log-houfes, nineteen balagans, and three jourts. Paratounca is nearly of the lame fize. Karatchin and Natcheekin have not fo many log-houfes as the former, but rather more balagans and jourts ; whence it may be concluded that fuch 19 the moft general fize of an oflrog* > < '„ The dreis of the Kamtfchadale women having . » - - » . i already To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2197 already been defcribed, we (hall proceed to that of the men. The upper garment refembles that of a waggoner's frock. If for fummer wear, it is made of nankeen ; if intended for winter, it is made of a fkin, (generally that of a deer or dog) having^ one iide tanned, and the hair preferved on the other, which is worn innermoft. A clofe jacket of nan- keen, or fome other cotton ftufF, is the next under this ; and beneath that, a ihirt made of thin Perfian filk, of a red, blue, or yellow colour. They wear alfo a pair of long breeches, or tight trowlers, of leather, reaching below the calf of the leg. They have likewife a pair of boots, made of dog or deer fkin, with the hair innermoft. They have a fur cap, having two flaps that are ufually tied up clofe to the head, but are permitted to fall round the ihoulders in bad weather. The fur drefs, which was prefented by Major Behm's Ton to Captain King, is one of thofe worn on ceremonious occafions by the Toions. It is fhaped like the exterior garment we have jufl defcribed, and confifls of fmall trian- gular pieces of fur, chequered brown and v/hite, and lo ingenioufly joined as to appear to be of the fame (kin. A border, of the breadth of (ix inches, curioufly wrought with different coloured threads of leather, fun ounds the bottom, and produces a rich fflect. A broad edging of the fea-otter*s (kin is rufpcnded ti) this. The (leeves are ornamented with the fame materials. An edging of it alfoencir- cles the neck, and furroun s the opening at the breaft. It m lined with a beautiful white (kin. And the prefent was accompanied with a pair of gloves, a cap, and a pair of boots, executed with the ut- mod neatnefs, and compofed of the fame materials. The Ruffians who refide in Kamtfchatka, wear the European drefs; and the uniform worn by the- troops here, is of a dark ^een turned up with fed. . ' ■•• ■} , , I- ..- CH^P. . I 1 1 aipS Cook's thud amd last IToyagi ^ C H A p. XX. XHE people fituated to the N. and S. of Kamtr* chatka, being but imperfectly known, we __ , before we proceed to the continuation of our voyage, give fuch information as we have beeq able to acquire refpeCling the Kurile Iflands, the Koreki, and Tfchutflci. The Kuriles are a chain of iflands, extending from the fouthern promontory of Kamtfchatka to Japan, in a S. W. diredion. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Lopatka, >vho Were called Kuriles, gave thefe iflands the fame name, as foon as they became acquainted with them. Spanberg makes their number amount to 22, excluuve of the very fmall ones. The northern- moft ifland is called Shoomika, and lies about three leagues diftant from the promontory of Lopatka, its inha^*t^*^ts confifting of a mixture of natives and Kam ^idales. The next, named ParamouGr, is confider' ^^^ ■ ^ ■**■ tb|3 To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2207 the W. S. W. On Tuefday, the 2 6th, at day-break, we had the fatisfadlion of perceiving high-land to- wards the W. which proved to be Japan. At eight o'clock, it was at the di trance of ten or twelve miles, and extended from S. by W. to N. W. A low flat cape, which apparently conftituted the fouthern part of the entrance of a bay, bore N. W. three quarters W. Near the S. extremity, a hill of a conic figure appeared, bearing S. by W. three quart "^rs W, To the N. of this hill, there Teemed to ^e an inlet of very confiderable depth, the northern fide of whofc entrance is formed by a low point of land ; and, as well as we were enabled to judge by the afliftance of our glafles, has a fmall ifland near it towards the S. Having flood on till nine o'clock, we had, by that time, approached within five or fix miles of the land, which bore W. three quarters S. We now tacked, and flood off-, but as the wind failed us, we had proceeded, at noon, to no greater diflance than 3 leagues from the fliore. This part of the coaft extended from N. W. by N. to S. half E. and was principally bold and cliffy. The low cape above-mentioned, was about fix leagues diflant, bearing N. W. by W. and the northern point of the inlet was in the direftion of S. three quarters W. Our lat. by obfervation, was 40 deg. 5 min. and our long. 142 deg. 28 min. The moft northerly land in view, was luppofed by us to be the northern extreme of Japan. It is fomewhit lower than the other parts ; an^i from the range of the elevated lands that were difcerned over it from the mafl- head, the coafl manifeflly appeared to trend to the weftward. The northern point of the iiilet was imagined by us to be Cape Nambu ; and we con- JLclured, that the town, which Janfen calls Nabo, flood in a break of the high land, towards which the inlet apparently directed itfelF. The neighbouring country is of a moderate elevation, and has a dou- ble range of mountains. It is well furnifhed with woo3, and exhibits a variety of pleafing hills and dales. li ■ j '^B ^B! ■■ 11 1 ^M fli 22oS Cook's THIRD AND LAST Voyage dales. We perceived the fmoke ariiing from feve- ral villages or towns, and faw many houfes in de» lightfiil and cultivated fituations, at a fmall diftance from the (hore. While the calm continued, ihat ^c might lofe no time, we put our fiihing lines over* board, in ten fathoms ^'ater, but had no fuccefs. This being the only diverlion which our prefent cir- cumftances would permit us to enjoy, we very fen- fibly felt our difappointment ; and looked back with regret to the cod banks of the difmal regions we had lately quitted, which had furnifhed us with fo many falut^ry meals, and by the amufement they had afforded, given a variety to the tedious recurrence of aftronomical obfervations, and the wearifome fucceilion of calms and gales. At two o'clock, P. M. the wind blew frefh from the S. and, by four, liad reduced us to clofe- reefed top-lkils, andoblijod us to ftand off to the fouth-eaftward ; in confequence of which courfe, and the gloominefs of the wea- ther, we foon loft fight of land. We kept on during the whole night, and till eight o'clock the following morning, when the wind fhifting to the N. and becoming moderate, we made fail, and fteered a W. S. W. courfe, towards the land, which, how- ever, we did not make before three in the afternoon ; 'dt which time it was feen to extend from N. W. half W. to W. The moft northerly extremity was ai continuation of the elevated land, the fouthern- moft we had obferved the preceding day. The land to the wcftward, we conjeftured to be the High Table Hill of janfen. The coaft, between the two extremes, was low, and could fcarcely be perceived, except from the maft-head. We proceeded towards tlie coaft till eight in the evening, when our diftance from it was about five leagues, and having Ihor- tened i'ail for the night, we fteered in a foutherly direction, founding every four hours; but our depth of water was fo greac, that wc did not find ^<;roiind with i6o fathoms of line. . On I'liijifday. the i3th, at fix o'clock, A. M. we ' , ' again again We ha byN. land ii txtren and a or i6 vation, I42 de wecoii nighti over a hauled when V the S. c ground fwelled o'clock, Jng to tl iong aft land, fts alfo faw before tl try fo c excited quence ftantanec veflel to ' a greater ing appn board of brought t have fpok by their ir was unwi imagining tunities ol feredthen ing to th ablfid to fc ?^o. 80. fo THE Pacific CJcean, &Ci 2209 again faw land^ 1 2 leagues to the fouthward of that we had feen the day before, and extended from W. by N. to W. S. W. At ten o'clock we faw more land in the fame direction; At noon, the northern extremity of the land in view bore N. W. by N, and a peaked hill, over a fteep head-land, was 1 5 or 16 miles diftant, bearing W. by N. By obfer- vation, our lat. was 38 deg. 16 min^ and our long. 142 deg. 9 min. During the remainder of the day, we continued oUr courfe to the S. W. and, at mid- night j found our depth of water to be 70 fathoms, over a bottom of fine brown fand. We therefore hauled up towards the E^ till the next morning, when we again had fight of land, eleven leagues to the S. of that we had feen the preceding day. The ground was low towards the feaj but gradually fwelled in!:o hills of a moderate elevation. At nine o'clock, ti|e flcy being overs-caft, and the wind veer- ing to the ST. we tacked and ftood off to the E. Not long after, we obferved a veflel, clofe in with the land, ftanding to the N. along the (hore \ and we alfo faw another in the o/Hng, coming down on us before the wind. Objeds belonging to a coun- try fo celebrated, and yet fo imperfectly known, excited a general. eagernefs of curiofity; in conf<»- quence of which, every perfon on board came in- ftantaneoufly upon deck to gaze at them. As the veiTel to windward approached us, (he hauled off to a greater diftance from the fhore ; upon which be- ing apprehenfive of alarming thofe who were oa board of her by the appearance of a piirfuit, we brought to, and ihe failed a-head of us. We might have fpoken to them ; but Captain Gore perceiving, by their manoeuvres, that they were highly terrified, was unwilling to increafe their apprehenfions ; and, imagining that we fhould have many better oppor-. tunities of a communication with the Japauefe, fuf<« feredthem to retire without interruption. Accord- ing to the moft probable conjectures wc were en- alHed to form, the veflel was of the burthen of 40, $Jo. 80. 13 A tons J ! «l . !! I >^io Cook* 8 thIxd and last VoTACt tons ; and there Teemed to be fix men on board her. She had only one mail, whereon was hoifted a qua^* drangular fail, extended aloft by a yard, the braces of which worked forwards. Inree pieces of black^ cloth came half way down the fail, at an equal dif- tance from each other. The veflel was lower in the middle than at each end ; and from her figure we fuppofed, that (he could not fail otherwife than large. At noon, the wind blew frefli, accompanied with much rain. By three o'clock it had increafed in fo great a degree, that we were reduced to our courfes. The fea, at the fame time, ran as high as any of our people ever remember to have feen it. About eight o'clock, in the evening, the gale, without the fmalkft diminution of violence, fhifced to the W. and by producing a fudden fwell, inadn'eAion contrary to that whicn had before prevailed, caufed our fhips to labour and ftrain exceedinglv« During the ftorm, we had feveral of our fails fplit. They had, indeed, been bent for fo long a time, and were worn fo thin, that this accident had happened lately in both vefleTs almoft daily ; particular^ whth the £iils were ftiflf, and ht-:^-i^ >is^ An-'ftliT- MaiMli**^«i" i W i I H ii * I T' i ' ii " To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 3211 2at. to be 35 cleg. 17 min. and our long, with great accuracy, to be 141 deg. gamin. At two o'clock, we again made land towards the W. diftant 12 leagues. A hummock to the northward, which had an infular appearance, bore N. N. W. half W. Wc fleered for the land till between five and fix, when we hauled our wind to the S. At this time we dc« icried to the wellward a mountain of extraordinary height, with a round fummit rifing far inlancl. In Its neighbourhood the coaft is of a moderate ele- vation ; but, to the S. of the hummock ifland, there appeared, at a confidcrable diftance up the country, a ridge of hills, extending towards the mountain, and which might perhaps join it. As the weather, in the morning of the 2nd, had a very threatening appearance, and the wind was at S. S. E. we thought it advifeable to quit the neighbourhood of the (hore, ^nd lUnd off towards the £. that the fhips might not be entangled with the land. We were not de- ceived in our prognoftications ; for not long after- wards, a heavy gale began to blow, which conti- nued till the next day, and was attended with rainy and hazy vreather. On Wednefday the 3d, in the morning, we found ourfelves by our reckoning, upwards of 50 leagues from the coaft ; which cir* cumftance, united to the confideration of the very uncommon effe^ of currents we had already expe- rienced, the advanced period of the year, the vari- able and uncertain (late of the weather, and the fmall profpe£l we had of any alteration for the bet- ter, induced Captain Gore to form the refolution of leaving Japan, and profecuting our voyage to China : to which facls may be added, that the coaft of Ja- pan, according to Kaempfer's defcription of it, is the moft dangerous in all the known world; that it would have been exceedingly hazardous, in cafe of dillrefs, to have run into any of the harbours of that country ; where, if we may credit the molt authentic writers, the averfion of the natives to a commuaicatioa with (Irangers, has prompted them '' ''-'■■ 13 A a , . to Hi (; f II i I . I it w'. '!: %] ' \ 2212 Cook's t-hird and last VoYAeE to the commiflion of the moft flagrant ads of bar? barity ; that our veiTels were in a leaky condition -^ that the rigging was fo rotten as to require contir nual repairs ; and that the fails were almoft entirely worn out, and incapable of withftanding the vehct mence of a gale of wind. As the violent currents, which fet alon^ the eaftern coaft of Japap, may per- haps be attended with dangerous confequences to thofe navigators, Avhp are not acquainted vith their extreme rapidity, we will here fubjoin a fummary account of their diredion and force, as remarked by us from the i ft to the 8th of November. On the I ft, at the time when we were about iC leagues to the.E. of White Point, the current fet at the rate of 3 miles in an hour, to the N. E, and by N. On the 2nd, as we made a nearer approach to the fliore, we obferved, that it continued in a fimilar 4ireclion, but was augmented in its rapidity to five miles an hour, As we receded from the coaft, it again became more moderate, and inclined towards' the E. On the 3d, at thedif^ance nf 60 leagues froni the fliore, it fet, at the rate of three miles an hour, to the E. N. E. On the two following days, it turned to the fouthward, and, at 120 leagues from the coaft, its diredion was S. E. and its rate did not exceed one mile and a half an hour. It again, oh the 6th, and 7th, fliifted to the N. E. and its force diminiftied ^adually till the 8 th, at which time we could not perceive any current. During the 4th and 5th of November, we pro- ceeded to the fouth-eaftward, with very unfettled weather, having much lightening and rain. On Saturday, the 6th, we changed our courfe to the S. S. W. but about eight o'clock, in the evening, we were obliged to ftand towards the S. E. Oix the 9th, at noon, we obferved in lat. 31 ^eg. 46 min. long. 146 deg. 20 min. Friday, the 12th, a moft violent gale arofe, which reduced us to the mizen-ftay-fail and fore-fail. At noon, we were in ht. 27 deg. ^6 mio. and in long. 144 deg. 25 min. •;•■/ To THE P AC I F I c Ocean, &c. 2213 Qn the 13th, we were nearly in the fame (Ituation attriljni-^iljtn^jji£vin'»w.^ «ir !?* i.-r^ ; ^e faw not :-T J .:• > 1 1 s r . tj ■ r'- ' ^ (, * r ^V P M 1 1 ■► 1 , :/ ■■ I \ to the EVof the ifland: its limits to the weftward, we had not an opportunity of afcertaining. Wc ' carried 2212 C«OK*S T-HIRD AND LAST VoYAeE to the commiffion of the m oft flagrant acls of bar? barity j that — .that the vie ~ .O'ol n «irArA '■j^,:.X ! I * :| i \ I it: in a i«>alcv rnndition J ml.— 1 ■ I;''"*.. \ V: V. ->' It ' ■ iu'"-^*^ m - • ^ 1 .1.- . ... _ J*-^ '/r mizen-ftay-fail an^ fore-fail. At noon, we were iff ht. 27 dcg. 36 win. and in long. 144 deg. 25 min. To THE Pacific O c e a n, &c. 2213 |e 111 lin. Qn the 13th, we were nearly in the fame fituatioa attributed to the ifland of St. Juan, yet we faw not ^he lead appearance of land. At fix o'clock, P. M. we fteered to W. S. W. Captain Gore thinking it ufelefs to fla;.d any longer to the S. S. W. as we were nearly in the fame meridian with the Ladrones, or Marianne Iflands, and at no very confiderable diftance from the track of the Manilla galleons. On Monday, the 15th, we faw three iflands, and bore away for the S. point of the largeft, upon which we obferved a high barren hill,, fiattifh at the top, and when feen from the W. S. W. prefents an evident volcanic crater. The earth, rock, or fand, for it was not eafy to diflinguifli of which its furface is compoled, exhibited various colours, and a confiderable part we conjedured to be fulphur, both from its appearance to the eye, and thefcrone; fulphureous fmell perceived by us in our approach jto the point. The Rcfolution having pafTed nearer the land, feveral of our officers thought they dif- cerned fleams proceeding from the top of the hill. Thefe circumflaucfes induced the commodore to be- ftow on this difcovery, the name of Sulphur Ifland. On Friday, the 26th, at fix o'clock, A. M. the wind having confiderably abated, we fet our top- fails, let out the reefs, and bore away to the weft- ward. At noon, we obftrved in lat. 21 deg. 12 min. long. 120 deg. 25min. In the courfeof this day, we faw many tropic birds, and a flock of ducks i alfo porpoifes and dolphins ; and continued to pafs many pui^ice-flones. We fpent the night on our tacks ; and on the 27th, at fix o'clock, A. M. we again made fail to the W. in fearch of the Bafliee Ifles. On the 28th, at four o'clock, A. M. we had fight of the ifland of Prata. At noon, our lat. was 20 deg. 39 mih. long. 1 1^ deg. 45 min. The extent of the rrata fhoal' is confiderable j for it is about fix leagues from N. to S. and extends four leagues to the E. of the ifland : its limits to the weftward, ye had not an opportunity of afcertaining. W€ carried ■I • fl- ^' 1 X -^ t r^ .^'1*: 1 1 ■ t T I 2214 Cook's third and last VoYAct »" carried a prefs of fail during the remainder of the day, and kept the wind, which now blew from the N. E. by N, in order to fecure our paifage to Macao. On Monday, the 29th, in the morning, we paf- fed fomc Chinefe fifhing-boats, the crews of which eyed us with marks of great indifference. At noon, our lat. by obfervation, was 22 deg. i min. and, iince the preceding noon, we had run 1 10 miles upon a N, W. courfe* On the 30th, in the morn« ing, we ran along the Lema Ifles, which, like the other iflands fituated on this coaft, are deftitute of wood, and, as far as we had an opportunity of ob* ferving, devoid of cultivation. We now fired a gun, and difplayed our colours, as a fignal for a pilot. On the repetition of the (ignal, there was an excellent race between four Chinefe boats ; and Captain Gore engaged with the perfon who ariived fim, to condu^l the fhip to the Typa, for the fum of go dollars, fending virord, at the fame time, to Capltain King, that as he could eafily follow With the Difcovery, that ezpence might be faved to him^ In a ihort time afterwards a fecond pilot got on board, and immediately laying hold of the wheel, began to order the fails to be trimmed, I'his gave rife to a violent altercation, which was at length compromifed, by agreeing to divide the money be* tween them. In obedience to the inftruAions from the Lords of the Admiralty, it now became necef- fary to demand of the officers and men, belonging to both ihips, their journals, and what other papers they might have m their poifeflion, relative to the hiftory of the voyage. At the fanie time Captain King gave the Dilcovery's people to underftand, that whatever papers they wimed ibould not be fent to the Lords of the Admiralty, he would feal up their prefence, and preferve in his cuftody till the in..*;ntions of their Lordfliips, refpe^ng the publi- cation of the hiftory of the voyage, were accom- pliflied, after which, he faid they fliould be faiths fully reftorcd to them. The captain obfervcs upon this , I t ■^ :il !? M i liia>i 'T kj •S' .-C^' )t\ i!i\.i w Hi'' \ ■. ■ ^^■^■^ ■ »* T »r ■ ^.i^a^. 'flmi'::, .- To THi Pacific Ocean, &cI 321^ this occafion, that it is but doing juftice to his com- pany to declare, that as to the crew, they were the belt difpofed. and the mod obedient men he ever knew, though the greateft part of them were very young, . and had never ferved before in a (hip of war. The fame propofals were made to the people of the Re- folution, and inftantlv complied with. We continued working to windward, by the di- reftion of our pilot, till about fix o'clock, P. M. when we let go our anchors, he being of opinion, that the tide was now fetting againft us. During the afternoon, we ftood on our tacks, between the Grand Ladrone and the iiland of Potoe, having paiTed to the eaft of the latter. At nine o'clock we again cail anchor in fix fathoms water ; the. town of Macao being at the diftance of nine or ten miles, in a N. W. dire^ion ; and theifland of Potoe bear- ing S. half W. feven miles diftant. On the 2d of December, in the morning, one of the Chinefe contra^ors, called compradors, came on board, and fold us as much beef as weighed 200 weight, together with a confiderable quantity of greens, oranges, and eggs. In the evening Cap- tain Gore fent Mr. King on fhore to vifit the Por- tuguefe Governor, and to requeft his afllftance in procuring refrelhments, which he thought might be done on more reafonable terms than the compra- dor would undertake to furnifh them ; with whom we had agreed for a daily fupply ; for which, how- ever, he infiiled on our paying him before-hand. Upon Mr. King's arrival at the citadel, the Fort- Major informed him that the governor was fick, and not able to (ec company. Having acquainted the Major with his defire of proceeding immediately to Canton, the former told him, that they could not prefume to provide a boat, till permifHon had been obtained from the Hoppo, or officer of the cuftoms ; and that it was neceuary to apply, for this purpofe, to the Chinefe government at Canton. When the captain was returning, the Portuguefe officer afked him. 111 ■i SZl6 C0DK*S THIRD AND lASt VbYXcit hiinj if he did not mcan'to vifit the Enelifh gcri- tlemeri at Macdo ? This queftion gave him inex- prefTible pleafure; He proceeded immediately to ^he hoiife of one of his countrymen • from whom he received Information of the French war, and of the continuance of the American war ; and that five fail of Englifli fhips were now at Wampu, nc^t Canton, in China. The intelligence we had gained concerning the (late of affairs in Europe, rendered us the more anxious to accelerate our departure as much as we pofllbly could. The firft thing that claimed the attention of the commodore, was to provide as well as he could for the general fafety of the people under his command, on their return home. ' The news of a French war, without letting us know the order iilued by the King of France in our favour, ga:ve us much concern. Our fhips were! ill fitted for war : the decks, fore and aft, being finifhed flufli, had no covering for men or officers ; it was therefore thought neceflary to raife a kind of parapet, mufquet proof, on both decks j and likewife to flrengthen the cabins as much as poflible in cafe of action. On Thurtday, the 9th, we received an anfwer from the Englifli fupercargoes at Canton, in which they promifed to exert their mod ftrenuous endeavours in procuring the fupplies of which we Were in want, with all poflible difpatch ; and that a paflfport fliould be fent for one of our oflicers. Friday, the loth, an Englifli merchant, from one of our Eaft-Indian fettlements, riiude application to Captain Gore for the afliftance ct a few of his peo- ple, to navigate as far as Canton a vefl!el which he had purchafcd at Macao.. The commodore confi- dering this as a good opportunity for Captain King to repair to that city, gave orders, that he fliould take with him his fecond lieutenant, the lieutenant of the marines, and lofailors. Accordingly, they quitted the harbour of Macao, on Saturday, thq nth; and as they approached the BoccaTygris, which ia near 40 miles diftant from Macao, the To THE Pacific Ociak, &c. 2217 coaft of China appeared to the eaflward in white fleep cliflfs. Their progrefs being retarded by con- trary winds, and the lightnefs of the velfel, they did not arrive at Wampu, which is only nine leagues from the Bocca Tygiis, till Saturday, the 18th. Wampu is a fmall town, off which the (hips of va- rious nations, who trade with the Chinefe, are ila- tioned, in order to receive their refpeftive ladings. At Wampu, Captain King embarked in a Sampane» or Chinefe boat, the moft convenient for paiTengers that we ever faw •, and in the evening we reached Canton, and difembarked at the Englifh fadory, where the captain was received with every mark of civility and refpedl. MefTrs. Fitzhugh, Revan, and Kapier, compofed, at this time, the Seledl Com- mittee ; and the former of thefe gentlemen adled as prefident. They immediately gave the captain an inventory of thofe (lores with which the £a(l- India fhips were able to fupply us, and he had the pleafure to find, that they were ready to be (hipped, and that the provifions we might have occafion for might be had at a day's notice. Being deiirous o£ making our (lay here as (hort as po(fible, th'j cap- tain requefted, that the gentlemen would endea* vour to procure junks for us the next day ; but we were foon convinced by them, that patience is an indifpenfible virtue in China. After the captain had waited feveral days for the iflTue of his negoci- ation with the Chinefe, and was confidering whaU fieps he fhould take, the commander of a country (hip piefented him with a letter from Captain Gore, whereby he was informed of that comman- der being engaged to bring our party from Canton, and to deliver our fupplies, at his own hazard, in. the Typa. All difficulties being thus removed, Captain King had ieifure to beftow fome attention on the purclvdfe of our flores and provifions, which he completed on Sunday, the 26th, and, on the following day, the whole ftock was conveyed on boaid. As Caaton was likely to be the moft ad- No. 80. * 13 B vantageous 1 iH : 22i8 Cook's third and last Voyagl vantageous m&rket for furs, the commodore had defired Captain King to take with him about 20 fkins of fea-otters ; moft of which had been the property of our deceafed commanders ; and to dif- pofe of them at the beft price he could obtain. The Englifh fupercargocs being informed of thefe cir- cumflanceis, they diredled him to a member of the Hong (3. fociety of the principil merchants of the city) who being fully apprifed of the nature of the bufinefs, feemed to be fenlible of the delicacy of the captain's fituation, ;.nd therefore afTured him, that, in an affair of this kind, he ihould confider himfelf as a mere agent, without feek- ing any profit for himfelf. The fkins being laid be- fore this merchant, he exumined them over and over again with particular attention ; and at lafl in* formed Captain King, that he could not think of offering more than 300 dollars for them. As the captain knew he had not offered one half of their value, he, therefore, in his turn, demanded 1000 dollars; the Chinefe merchant then advanced to five, and, at length to 700 dollars; upon which the captain lowered his demands to 900. Here, each of them declaring that he would not recede, they parted ; but the Chinefe fpeedily returned, and propofed finally, that they fhould divide the diffe- rence, which the captain agreed to, and received 800 dollars. The fubfequent remarks, relative to Canton, were collected by Captain King, from the intelligence which he received from feveral Englifh gentlemen, who hi\d refided a long time near that city. V Cantcn, containing the old and new town, with the fuburbs, is about 10 miles in circumference* The number of i^s inhabitants, as near as can be computed, may be from 100 to 150,000. Exclu- ilve of whom there ar^ 40,000 who refide conftantly in Borges, called Sampares, or floating-houfes upon the river. They are moored in rows clofe to each ,/; . other. To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2119 20 the dif- The cir- the the the cacy bred lould feek- dbe- * and iftin- nk of ^s the their . 1000 :ed to which Here, cede, , and diffe. eived ive to the that with rencc* can be Ixclu- tantly upon each »thef. Im In other, with a narrow paflage, at intervals, for the boats to pafs up and down the river. The ftreets of this city are long, narrow, and de- (litute of T;niformity. They are well paved with iarge ftones, and, in general, kept extremely clean. The houfes are built of brick, and are only one ftory high. They have, for the moft part, two or three courts backwards, in which are erefted the ware- houfes for the reception of merchandize ; and, in the houfes within the city, are the apartments for the females. Some of the meaner fort of people, though very few, have their habitations compofed of wood. Thofe that belong to the European factors, are built on a fine quay, having a regular facade of two Tories towards the river. They are conftrudled, with refped to the infide, partly after the Chinefe, and partly after the European mode. Adjoining to them area confiderable number of houfes which be- long to the Chinefe ; and are let out by them to the commanders of veflels, and to merchants,, who make only an occalional ftay. As no European is permitted to take I is wife with him tc Canton, the Englifli fupercargoes live together at one common table, which is maintained by the Company, and ^ach of them hasalfo an apartment appropriated to himfelf, confiding of three or four rooms. The period of their refidence rarely exceeds eight months in a year ; and as, during that timt, they are al- moft conftantly employed in the fervice of the Com- pany, they may fubmit, with the lefs uneafinefs, to the reftri(5bions under which they live. They fel- dom make any vifits within the walls of Canton, except on public occafions. Nothing contributed more to give Captain King an unfavourable opinion of the Chinefe, than his finding that feveral of them who had refided in that country for near 1 5 fucceilive years, had never formed zny focial con- nexion or friendihip. When the laft fhip departs from Wamp.u, they are all under the neceflity o£ 13 B 2 retiring HI I* ?22o Cook's third and last Voyage retiring to Macao ; but they le^ve behind them all the money they poflefs in fpecie, which, Mr. King was informed, fometimes amounts to ioo,oool. fterling, and for which they have no other fecurity than the feals of the Viceroy, the Mandarines, and the mtrchants of the Hong : a ftriking proof of the excellent police maintained in China. During our continuance at Canton, Mr. King ac- companied one of the Engliih gentlemen on a vifit to a perf(jn of the firft diflindion in the place. They were itceived in a long room or gallery, at the furthir end of which a table was placed, with a larg'- .chair behind it, and a row of chairs extend- ing from ir, on both fides, down the room. The captain having been previouily inftrucflied, that the point of politenefs confifted in remaining unfeated as long as poflible, readily fubmitted to this piece of etiquette ; alt^fr which he and his friend were treated with tea, and fome frefli and preferved fruits!. Their entertainer was very corpulent, had a dull heavj?^ countenance, and difplayed great gravity in his deportment. He had learned to fpeak a little broken Englifh and Portugueze. After his two guefls had taken their refrefhment, he conduced them about his houfe and garden ; and when he had fhewn them all the improvements he was making, they took their leave. The captain being defirous of avoiding the trou- ble and delay that might attend an application for paflports, as well as of faving the unneceffary ex^ pp-^ceof hiring a fampane, which he was iritormed amounted at lead to 1 2 pounds ilerling,had hitherto defigned to go along with the fuppliestoMacaD,iri the coun' "y merchant's fliip we mentioned before: but receiving an invitation from two Engliih gen-f tlemen, who had found means to procure paffporta for four, he accepted, together with Mr. Phillips^ their offer of places in a Chinefe boat, and intruded Mr. Lannyon with ^e fuperiotendance of the men and florcs^ which were to fail tht following day. .2 ' -,>- On it,. To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2221 all ing DOl. rity and tlie Tac- vifit rhey t the ith a tend- The It the ■eated piece 1 were fruits, a dull ity in little Is two ufted en he was trou- )n for I y ex*- rn>ed herto aD,i« fore: gen-* ports illips^ ufted men ay- ' On On Sunday, the 26th, in the evening. Captain King took his leave of the fupercargoes, after hav- ing returned them thanks for their many favours ; among which muft be mentioned a prefcnt of a con- (iderable quantity of tea, for the ufs of the com- panies of both fliips, and a copious colIe6lion of Englifh periodical publications. The latter proved a valuable acquifition to us, as they not only ferved to beguile our impatience, in the profecution of our tedious voyage homewards, but alfo enabled us to return not wholly unacquainted with what had been tranfa(!iiing in 6ur native country during our ab- fence. On the 2 7 th; at one o'clock in the morning, ■ M^iTrs. King and Phillips', and the twoEnglifli gen- r ; ..lien, quitted Canton, and, about the fame hour of the fucceeding day*, arrived at Macao, having pafled down a channel fituated to the weft of that by which we had come up.' In the abfence of our party from Macao, a briik trafHc had been carrying on with the Chinefe for our fea-otter-lkins, the value of which had augmented every day. One of our failors difpofed of his ftoclr, alone, for 800 dollars ; and a few of the belt ikins, which were clean, and had been carefully preferved, produced i?o dollars each. The total amount of the value, ir ^^.ol Js and cafii, that was obtained for thb furs of b< ' :ur veflels, we are confident was not lefs than 2,oc-^? icrling; and it was the general opi- nion, that at Jcaft two-thirds of the quantity we had originally procured from the Americans, were by this timeipoiled :ind worn out, or had beenbe- ftowed as prefents, and otherwife difpofed of in Kamtfchatka. If, in addition to thefe fa^s, we confider, that we at firft colleAed the furs without having juft ideas of their real value ; that mod of them i /i:> been worn by the favages from whom we purchakd &hem ; that little regard was afterwards ihewn to their prefervation ;- that they were fre- quently made ufe of as bed-clothes, and likewife for other purpofes, during ourcruife to the north- '• "^ J ( ' ■ ' . ' ward J 'i\ ^'] I I 2222 Cook's third and last Voyage rJ i ! * ward ; and that, in all probability, we never re- ceived the full value for them in China ; the bene- fits that might accrue from a voyage to that part of the American coaft where we obtained them, un- dertaken with commercial views, will certainly ap- pear of fufficient importance to claim the public at- tention. So great was the rage which our feamen were poflefled to return to Cook's River, aiid there procure another cargo of fkins, by which they might be enabled to make their fortunes, that, at one time, they were almoft on the point of proceeding to a mutiny. An \ -^ntain King acknowledges, that he could not re^. from indulging himfelf in a projed, which was ikt^ fuggefted to him by the dilappointment we had met with in being compel- led to leave the Japanefe Archipelago, as well as the northern coaft of China, unexplored ; and he is of opinion, that this objed may ftill be happily attained, by means of our £aft-India Company, not only with trifling expence, but even with the pro- fpe^ of very beneficial confequences. The fiate of aiffairs at home, or perhaps greater d'iHculties in the accompliihnient of his plan than he had forefeen, have hitherto prevented its being carried into exe« cution ; but, as the fcheme feems to l^well con- trived, the reader will not be difpleafed with our inferting it here. In the firft place. Captain King propofes, that the Eaft-India Company's China (hips fhould, each, carry an additional number of men, making looin the whole. Two veflels, one of 200 tons, and the other of 1 50, might with proper notice, (as Mr. King was informed) be purchafed at Canton ; and, as vi^ual- ]ing is as cheap there as in Europe, he has calculated that they might be completely equipped for fca, with one year's provifions and pay, for the fum of 6,oool. including the purchafe. The expence of the requifite articles for barter is very inconfider* able. Captain King particularly recommend^ that each of cxe» leach of ' To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2223 of the fliips ihould have a forge, five tons of un- wrought iron, and a fkilful fmith, with an appren- tice andjournc) nan, who might occafionally make fucb tools, as the Indians fhould appear to have the greateft inclination for poifefling. For, though half a dozen of the fined (kins, obtained by us, were purchafed with twelve large green glafs beads, yet it is very certain, that the fancy of thefe people* for ornamental articles, is extremely capricious and variable; and that the only fure commodity for their market is iron. To this might be added fcve- ral bales of coarfe woollen cloth, two or three bar- rels of glafs and copper trinkets, and a few grofs of large pointed cafe-knives. He then propofes, that two veffels, not only for the greater fecurity of the voyage, but becaufe iingle fliips ought never, in his opinion, to be fent out for the purpofe of difcovery. For where rifques are frequently to be run, and uncertain and dangerous experiments tried, it can by no means be expelled that fingle fhips fliould venture fo far, as where fonie fecurity is provided againll an unfortunate accident. When the fhips are prepared for fea, they will fail with the firft S. W. monfoon, which ufually fets in about the commencement of the month of April. They will fteer a northward courfe, with this wind, along the Chinefe coafl, beginning to make a more accu« rate furvey from the mouth of the Nankin river, or the river Kyana, in the 30th de^ee of latitude, which is fuppofed to be the rem'bteft limit of this coaft hitherto vifited by European veffels. The ex- tent of the great gulph called Whang Hay, or the Yellow Sea, being at prcfent unknown, it may be left to the commander's difcretiori, to proceed up it as far as he may think proper : he mutt be cauti- ous, however, not to entangle himfelf in it too far, left he fliould not have fumcient time left for the profecution of the remainder of his voyage. The fame difcretion may be ufed, when he has reached the iiraits of Teflbi, with regard to the iflands of Jefo, 2224 Cook's third and last Voyage ]• I I I Jefo, which, if the wind and weather fliould be fa- vourable, he muft not negled to explore. Having arrived in the latitude of 5 1 deg. 40 min. where he will make the inoft foutherly point of the Ifle of Sa- galeen, beyond which we have a confiderable know- ledge of the fea of Okotlk, he will fteer towards the S. probably about the beginning of June, and exert his endeavours to fall in with the moft fouthern of the Kurile lilands. If the accounts of the Ruilians may be depended on, Ooroop, or Nadefchda, will furnifh the ihips with a commodious harbour, where they may recruit their wood and water, and provide themfelves with fuch refreihments as the place may afford. Near the end of June the com- mander will dired his courfe to the Shummagins, whence he will proceed to Cook's River, purchafing, in his progrefs, as many ikins as poflible, without lofing too much time, fince he ought to fail again to the fouthward, and trace the coaft with the ut- moft accuracy between the 56th and 50th degrees of latitude, the fpace where contrary winds drove us out of fight of land. We think it proper< to obferve here, that Captain King confiders the purchafe of ikins, in this expedition, as a fecondary concern, for defraying the expence ; and, from our experience in the prefent voyage, there is no reafou to doubt that 250 (kins, each worth 100 dollars, may be obtained without lofs of time ; particularly as they will^ in all probability, be met with along the coaft of the S. of Cook's River. The commander of this expedition, after having continued about three months on the American coaft, will fet out on his return to China in the former part of October, taking care, in his route, to avoid, as much as pofTible the tracks of preced- ing navigators. All that remains to be added on this fubject, is, that if the fur trade fliould become an eftablifhed object of Indian commerce, many opportunities will occur of completing whatever . . . ■ • roay -?,* ^I'o i" lary our ifoii liars, larly )ong ring ican the ite, :ed- on >me [any Wer iay HE Pa CI f It dc t A N, &ci 2225 hiay have been left unfinifhed, in the voyage of Ivhtch the outlines are here delineated. During our abfence, a very ludicrous alteratioit took phce in the drefs of all our crew, in confe- qu^nce of the barter which the Chinefe had carried oii with us for our fea- otter Ikins. On our arrival in the Typa, not only the Tailors, but likewifq the younger officers, were extremely ragged in their apparel ; for, as the voyage had now exceeded, almoft by a year, the time it was at firft fuppofed we fhould continue at fea, the far greater part of our original flock of European clothes had been long ago worn out, ot repaired and patched up with fkins, and the diffe- rent nianufa<5lures we had met with in the courfe of the expedition. Thefe were now mixed and eked out with th£ gaycft filks and cottons that China could produce. On the 30th, being Friday, Mr, Lanhyon arrived with the ftores and provifions, which, without de- lay, were ftowed in due proportion on board both the fhips. While in the Typa, Captain King was {hewn, in the garden of an Englifli gentleman, at Macao, the rock, under which, according to tradi- tional accounts, Camoens, the celebrated Portu- guefe poet, was accuftomed to fit and compofe his Luftad. It is an arch of confiderable height ccn- fifting of one fi)lid ftone, and forming the entrance of a grotto dug out of the elevated ground- behind it. Large fpreading trees overshadow the rock, which commands a beautiful and exten five pfofpeft of the fea, and the iflands difperfed about it. During our continuance in the Typa, we heard nothing with refped to the meafurement of the ihips ; we may therefore reafonably conclude, that the point lb llrongly conteilcd, in Commodore Anfon*s time, by the Chinefe, hasj in confequence of his firmocfs and refolUtion, never iince been infifted on. By the obfervations made while ouv velTels lay here, the harbour of Macao is iituated in the lat, of 22 No* 80. 1 3 G deg. , 4 i i i I . . - - • - . 4 ■ 1 2^2^' Cook's third and last Voyage dcg. 12 min. N. and the long* of 113 cleg. 47 min; E. our anchoring place, in the Typa, in Jat. 2 2 deg^« 9 min. 20 fee. long. 1 13 deg. 48 min. 34 fee. K. It was high water in the Typa, on the full and- change days, at a> quarter after five o'clock ; and ■. in the harbour ofr Macao, at 50 minutes paft five : the greateft rife Was fix feet^ one inch* We fliall conclude thefe remarks, and this chapter, with thc' prices of. labour, and a few articles of provifions in Ghinai Prices of Labour and Provisions at CANTON. £. S. D, A Coolee, or Porter, - - o o 8 Per Day ' A Taylor. - - ---005 and rice A Handicraftfiman ---008 ditto A common Labourer from 3d. to 5d. per day. A Woman's labour couiiderably cheaper. >£. S. D. Butter - 02 41 Per Catty^ Beef - - -----00 2| or 1 8 02; Calf •- - - - - -- I 6 91 each Ducks ------- o o 54 Per Cattyv Ditto, wild - w ... - o I o^ each Eggs .020 Per J 00 Frogs - - o o 6| Per Catty- Fowls, Capons, &c. - - - o o 7| ditto GeefC' - - o o 6» ditto Ham - oi2!| ditto Hog, alive ------00 41 ditto Kid, ditto ------00 41 ditto, Milk - ------00 1 1 ditto Pork- - ------00 74 ditto Pig - - ..,----00 51 ditto Fheafants - - - ^ - - 05 4' each Partridges' •• o 091 ditto Pigeons- - - - - - - 00 51 ditto P ^bbits .------014 ditto ' ^tep - - 3d 8 ditto '■ Spices To THE Pacific Oceak, &c. 2227 Spices 016 8 Per Catty Soy -- 00 f| ditto Sanifui ditto -----00 2*. ditto Turtle -- 00 9} ditto .. •<=; '.-iS'Tssr^ XSSSSfTTKSi- C M A V. XXI. ;es A.D. ,780. O^ "^"f r^' the rith of January, ' \^ two failors, John Cave quarter- mader, and Robert Spencer belonging to the Rcfo- 4ution, went off with a fix-oared cutter ; and though the moft diligent «fearch wa« made, both this and ttlie following •moiniHg, we could not gain any in- • . -tdltgenoe of them, k was imagined, that thefe ieamen had been 'jfeduoed by the hopes of acquiring a fortune, ^f they fhoi M vetupn to the fur iikinde. -On the i2th^ at noon, we unmoored, ^ndTcaied the :gun8, whidh^ on board the Difcovery, amounted -at this >tim« to ten -; fo Hhat her people by «neans of four additional ports^ could ffight feven on a iide. In the Herolutionlilsewifq^ fthe'number of guns had 'been au^enfeed tfrom 4'2 to 16.; and> in each of ^he ihips, all other precauitiOBS were taken to giMe our incodiideratble (force een €'endered f wttr, thait had beeii taken in f^urope, importing, that their commanders, if they t(hould happen toiiM in with the Refolntion and Dis- covery, w&x to fuQor them to proceed ^unmolefted :fDn their voyage. It was alfo reported, that the Am^rioaui Coogrefkbadjgiven itmlu orders to th« l^Qz veflels ' M' I i!i i SI' t- 2228 CoOIv*S THIRD AND LAST VOYAGf vcffels employed in their fervice. This intelligence being further confirmed by the private letters of fome of tiiefupcT -cargoes, Captain King deemed it incumbent on him, in return for the liberal excep- tions which our enemies had made in our favour, to refrain from embracing any opportunities of capr ture, and to maintain the flrideft neutrality during the whole of our voy'age. Having got under fail about two o'clock, P. M. we pafled the fort of Mar cao, and faluted the garrifon with eleven four- pounders, which they anfwered with an equal num- ber. We were under the neceflity of warping out into the entrance of the Typa, which we gained by eight o'clock in the evening of the 1 3th j and lay there till nine o'clock the following morning, when we flood, with a frefh eaflerly breeze, to the S. be-r tween Wungboo and Potoe. At four in the after-? poon, the Ladrone was about two leagues diflant inaneaftern diredion. On Saturday, the 15th, at noon, we pbferved iti lat. ;8deg. 57 ^lin. long. 1 1^. deg. i^ min. On the i6th, we ilruck foundings oyer Macclesfield Bank, and found the depth of 'water to be 50 fathoms, over a bottom confiftihg of white fand and fhells. We computed this part of the bank to be iituated in lat. 15 deg. 51 min. and in long. H4 deg. 20 min. Thurfday, the 19th, at . four o'clock, P. M. we had in view Fulo Sapatra, bearing N. W. by W. and diflant about four leagues. Having pafled^his ifland, we flood to the weftward ; and oni the 20th made the lit^tle group of iflands known by the name of Pulo Condore, at one of which we anchored in fix fathoms water. The har- bour wTiere we now moored, has its entrance froni the N. W. and affords the befl fhelter during the N. E. nionfoon. Its entrance bore W. N. W. quar- ter W. and N. by W. the opening at the upper end bore S. E. by E. three quarters E. and we were about two furlongs diflant from the fhore. On the 2 ifl, early in the morning, parties were fent out to cut V^oou ^ To THE Pa ciri c OcE A Kr, &c. 222^ lar- ■^ vood, the commodore's principal motive for touch* ing at this iHand bciiig to fupply the (hips with that article. None of the natives having as yet made their appearance, notwithftanding two guns had been fired at different times, Captain Gore thought it advifeable to land, and go in iearch of them. Accordingly, on Sunday, thp 22nd, he defired Captain King to attend him. They proceeded in their boats along fhore for the fpace of two miles, when perceiving a road that led into a wood, they landed. Here Captain King left the commodore, and, attended by a midOiipman, and four armed failors, purfued the path, which appeared to point diredly acrofs the ifland. They proceeded through a thick wood up a fleep hill, to the dilhmce of a mile, when after defcending, they arrived at fome huts. Captain King ordered the party to ftay with- out; left the fight of armed men fliould terrify the inhabitants, while he entered and reconnoitred alone. He found, in one of the huts, an elderly man, who was in a great fright, and prepariog to make off with the moft valuable effects. However a few iigns, particularly that mod fignificant one of hold- ing out a handful of dollars, and then pointing to a herd of buffaloes, and the fowls that were running about the huts in great numbers, left him without any doubts as to the objewing is a tranflation. ■^ iPeter.Oeoi^ge,(Bifhqf>of Adran, Apoftolic Vtoar «f Oochin-China, Stc. The little Mandariq, who 96 the bearer keKof^ 'is the 4*eal Envoy of the Gonit to i^ulo Gcndore^ to attend tiiere ibr '^e reoeptiiMi 3 tf .He gave u, to und1rtond°?h»°l.^"S"'*> '"9." d»'.>n mentioned in it j and^*"' 5' ""» HieMin. which was a letter fcll^S P^"''*'' '""Wher paper captains of anyEurot^nT- ""I'ddreffed ffi Condoi e. From twV^'^ ""P» ">»' may touch »^ found, at the fame timrtt..?™"''' <»"■ We not lofing his er«"l and 'J,f '"' ^^' d^fi^-us of come our pilot. We r™ j7" ""' "twilling to be- for defigned to proSe t^X*"" ^« ^^itinff ftall only add, ?l,atT' '" ^o^h'n-China. W% •French vkis iigh UU''r'"''^ "'• "»t S^^ non, and from thfnce^UtS^r^ ^- "'"=''='' « Tir- »o '"te'iigencehad Ke^dS^S'",?-^'""* 5 ""d a, th. ^^'smoft likely t^wt^SK*" ''!:'«»«'» that- Go'-e afterwards enquirerf .^k /"j^"*^- Captain procured from thuTCd I " «"??«« coufd be two buffaloes belongil "o him '"u"^''?"^''. ^e had bnng thein on hoTdA^^^ '""^h at a lofs tl Mandarin, it was dJr. ^^^'^ ^onfuItiRfj u^th if - ^ . • they I f 'J i232 Cook's THikp and last Voyag^ they became fo furious, that they fometimes tor^ afiinder the cartilage of the noftril, through which ine ropes paff^d, and fet themfelves at liberty ; at other times they broke the trees, to which it waVork, and of rendering it the moft complete under- taking of the kind extant, to mention a few parti- culars that came under our own obfervation, and which may be reckoned as improvements lince the labours of former compilers, or the expeditions of prior navigators. Pulo Condore fignifies the Ifland of Calabafhes, its name being derived from two Malay words, Pulo, implying an ifland, and Condore, a Calabafli, great quantities of which fruit are produced here. Among the vegetable improvements of this ifland, may be reckoned the fields of rice that we obferved ; alfo cocoa-nuts, pomegranates, oranges, fliaddocks, and various forts of pompions. We continued at this harbour till the 28th, when the little Mandarin took leave of us ; at which time the commodore gave him, at his requefl, a letter of recommenda- tion to the commanders of any other veflels that might put in here. He alfo bellowed on him a handfome prefent, and gave him a letter for the bifliopof Adrian, together with a telefcope, which he defirAl might be prefented to him as a compli- ment for the favours we had received, through his means, at Pulo Condore. The latitude of the har- bour is 8 deg, 40 min. N. and its longitude, de- duced from many lunar obfervations, 106 deg. 18 min. 46 fee. E. At full and change of the moon it was high water at 4 h. 15m. apparent time; after which the water continued for 1 2 hours, without any perceptible alteration. The tranfilion Irom ebbing to flowing was very quick, being in iefs than Ko. 80. 13 D -five 1 ,1 h 1234 CoOSi's THIRD AND LAST VoYAGE five minutes. The water tofe and fell feven feet four inches perpendicular. On Friday, the 28th, we unmoored, and cleared the harbour. On the 30th,atone o'clock, P. M. we had fight cf Pulo Timoan, and at five, Pulo Puiflang was feen in the direction of S. by E. three quarters E. At nine o'clock,, we had, from the efFeft of fame current, out-run our reckoning, and found ourfelves clofe upon Pulo Aor, in the lat. of 2 deg. 46 min. N. long. 104 deg. 37 min. E. in confequence of which we hauled the wind to the E. S. E. This courfe we profecuted till midnight, and then fteered S. S. E. for the ftraits of Banca. On Tuefday, the ift of February, we obfervcd in lat. 1 deg. 20 min. N. and our long, by a number of lunar obfervations, we found to be 105 deg. E. Towards fun-fet, we had a view of Pulo Panjang ; at which time our lat. was 53 min. N. On the 2d, we pafifed the Straits of Sunda ; and, at noon, we cam^ in fight of the fmall iflands known by the name of Dominis, lying off the eaftern part of Lin- gen. At one o?clock, P. M. Pulo Taya made its appearance in the direction of S. W. by W. diftant 7 leagues. On the 3d, at day-break, we had fight of the three illands-, and, not long afterwards, faw Monapin Hill, in the ifland of Banca. Having got to the W. of the Ihoal, named Frederic Endric, we entered thie Straits of Banca, and bore away towards the S. On the 4th, in the morning, we proceeded down the ftraits with the tide ; and, at noon, the tide beginning to make againft us, we cafl: anchor, at the diftance of about one league from what is denominated the Third Point, on the Sumatra fhoi c ; Monopin Hill bearing N. 54 deg. W. and our lilt, being 2 deg. 22 min. S. long. 105 d^g. 38 min. P.. At three in the afternoon we vveig+ied, and continued our courfe through the ftraits with a gen- tle breeze. In pafllng thefe ftraits, (liips may make H nearer approach to the coaft of Sumatra than to • • that 3E 1 feet eared VI. we iiTang *rter8 Feftof found 2 deg. luence This fteered )ferved lumber deg. E. injang -, the 2d, on, we by the lof Lin- nade its diftatit id fight ds, faw ing got ric, we o wards Dceeded on, the anchor, what is umatra W.and kg. 3^^ ed, and agen- y make than to that To THE Pacific Ocean, ?cc. 2235 that of Banca. On Sunday, the 6th, in the morn- ing, we pafled to the W. of Lufepara ; and at five o'clock, P. M. we defcried the Sifters, in the direc- tion of S. by W. half W. At feven we caft anchor three leagues to the northward of thofe iflands. On the 7th, at five o'clock, A. M- we weighed, and in three hours afterwards we were in fight of the Sifters. Thefe are two iflands of very fmall extent, plentifully ftocked with wood, and fituated in 50 deg. S. lat. and in long. 106 deg. 1 2 min. They lie nearly N. and S. from each other, encompuffed by a reef of coraf rocks. At noon, we had fight of the Ifland of Jav^i ; and about four in the afternoon, we perceived two veftels in the Straits of Sunda ; one of which lay at anchor near the mid-channel ifland, the (5ther nearer the fliore of Java. On the 8tli, about eight o'clock in the morning, we weighed, and proceeded through the Straits of Sunda. On Wednefday the 9th, between ten and eleven. Captain King was ordered by the con 10- dore to make fail towards a Duch veflel, that now came in fight to the fouthward, which we imagined was from £ui ope ; and, according to the nature of the information that might be obtained from her, either join him at Cracatoa, or to proceed to the fouth-eaftern extremity of Prince's Ifland, and there provide a fupply of water, and wait for him. In compliance with thefe inflrudtions Captain King bore down towards the Dutchman ; and on the loth, in the morning, Mr. Williamfon went on board her; where he was informed, that ihe had been feven months from Europe, and three from the Cape of Good Hope; that, before her departure, the kings of France and Spain had declared war againft his Britannic Majefty ; and that fhehad left Sir Edward Hughes at the Cape with a fquadron of men of war, and alfo a fleet of Eaft-India (hips. On the return of Mr. Williamfon, Captain King took the advantage of a fair breeze, and made fail to- 13 D 2 wards 223^ Coo K*S THIRD AND LAST VoYACE wards the ifland of Cracatoa, where he foon aff^r perceived theRefolution at anchor, arid immediately difpatched a boat to communicate to Captain Gore the intelligence procured by Mr. Williamfon. When we faw our confort preparing, at the diftance of near two leagues, to come to, we fired our guns, arid difplayed the fignal for leading a-head, by hoifting an Englifli jack at the erifign ftafF. This was intended to prevent the Difcovery's anchoring, on account of the foul ground, which the maps on board, our {hip placed in this fituation. However, as Captain King met with none, but, on the con- trary, found a muddy bottom, and good anchor- irtg ground, at the depth of 60 fathoms, he rfc- inained fafl till the return of the boat, which brought him orders to proceed to Prince's liland the enfuing morning. Cracatoa is the fouthernmoft of a clufter of iflands lying in the entrance of the Straits of Sunda. It has a lofty peaked hill at its fouthern extremity, lituated in lat. 6 deg. 9 min. S. and in long. 105 deg. 15 min. E. The whole circumference of the ifland does not exceed nine miles. The Ifldnd of Samhouricou, or Tamarin, which ftands 12 miles to the northward of Cracatoa, may ealily be mif- taken for the latter, iince it has a hill of nearly the fame figure and dimenfions, fituate likewife near its fouth end. The lat. of the road wlicre we caft an- cJhor is 8 deg. 6 min. S. long, by obfervation, 105 deg. 36 min, E. It is high water on the full and change days, at feven o'clock in the morning ; and the water rifes three feet two inches perpendicular. On Friday, the 1 ith, at three o'clock, A. M. the Difcovery weighed anchor, and lleered for Pi-nce's Ifland ; and, at noon, flie came to, and moored oft' its eaftern extremity. On Monday, the i^th, at ciuy break, we defcried our confort, and, at tWo o'clock, P. Tvl. we anchored clofe by her. By the 1 6th, botii fliips flirted their calks, and had rcple- niflied ^" \ ■ \ > iiif- the ir its an- 105 1- and land |ar. the kcc's off at Itwo the )le- hed ''Actpic Ocean, &c. 2257 niflied them with frefli water Tn *i. decks v^ef e cleared a«^ '"^ *^ evcoioe the breeze, we broke «3 ,? ** ^''^ » wefterj, Ifland If Mr. U«»yS^ ^^ '°* ^Sl" »/ Prince'* ftould probably have n,«„^?V *°T"''"'' «e , finding the waterinff L« T/'J^ *'"'? diflicuify « be improper to eivf ? „ J- .""^y' therefore, not fituatir„,''for't°he^^;4ro"'f"^'" "'"'"P^^of'^ ]i>e peaked hiU on the ifland ^*^°"i "^^^"o^. from it. A remarfcrw. f ''^*" N. W. by N ftrubs ftandsjuft to tlS/'-""" 'h^ adjacent plot of reedy grafs J, ur °^ " i and a fmaU ""-ks win 'iS.'Z ttt" T' "y ^- tS^ . charges itfelf i„to the fra -Z Tk""* "^ P""! d^- well as that which is fnTb^ _^" '^.^."'"er here, as 61t, the ca&j muft be fi JedT ' "« '" general np ! where, i„ dry fefo'f ?.^°"' J? yards high " defcends from the hit °s' iJ''/'''^ '^"^^ *hich amoftg the leaves, and muft ?!.!.%" "J^'''"-« '»» for by clearing thei awa^^'Vhe tt « ^ ^'"''"''^ •ng-place at Prince's Ifland i, i ^ °^ ""^ ^n^hor- fec S. „d it, long. ,o,dIl'l ^''^S- J^min. ,c On Friday, the , rih ^' ' """• 3° fee. E. ^^olent ftor^: ^e^ ^hh'thn^^^" "^'* > ' and heavy rain. FronT tT, ir,, "'*"' hghtninir, March, wehadareeuL J '•'' '° 'he 28th Sf J faded in an old be" „ t«ck ' — '^" ' ""d « of notice occurred. It hlf 5.?° "'<^'<^ent worthy Gpre's intention To proce^^f ,,^'1^ ° ^'^ Captai J ?^thout flopping « aTc/J u^^y '° St. Helena «g been foJ^oie "toe c^Pf? ."«?* ""r rudder h^v! «a»,ned. .eportedTo ^^^'"T^' '"" <« being *" ^--^g a new «f^^:pl^SlSfe-'' Monday, ; ■ 2238 Cook's third and last Voyage Mond2^, the loth of April, a fnow was feen bear* ing down, which proved to be an Engliih Eaft-India packet, that had left Table Bay three days before, and was cruizing with orders for the China fleet, and other India ihips. She told us, that, about three weeks before, Monf. Trongollar's fquadron, confiiling of fix fhips, had failed from the Cape, and was gone to cruize off St. Helena, for the Engliih £aft Indiamen. The next morning we ftood into Simon's Bay. At eight o'clock we came to an- chor, at the diftance of one third of a mile from die neareft fhore ; the S. £. point of the bay bearing S. by E. and Table Mountain N. E. half N. The Naflau and Southampton Eaft Indiamen were here, in expeftation of a convoy from Europe. We fa- luted the fort with eleven guns, and were compli- mented with an equal number in return. As foon as we had caft anchor, Mr. Brandt, the governor of this place, favoured us with a vifit. This gentle- man had the higheft regard for Captain Cook, who had been his conilant gueft, whenever he had touched at the Cape ■, and though he had, fonie time before, received intelligence of his untimely fate, he was extremely affeded at the iight of ourveflels returning without their old commander. He was greatly furprifed at feeing moft of our people in fo healthy a ftate, as the Dutch fliip which had quitted Macao, at the time of our arrival there, and had afterwards flopped at the Cape, reported, that we were in a moft wretched condition, there being only 15 hands left on board the Refolution, and feven in the Difcovery. It is difficult to conceive what could . have induced thefe people to propagate fo infamous a falfehood. On Saturday, the 15th, Captain King accompa- nied our Commodore to Cape Town ; and the next day, in the morning, they waited on Baron Plet* tenberg, the governor, who received them with every poffible indication of civility and politenefs, 2 . .He /as fo Ited lad jwe (nly in bid lous ipa- lext flct* ^ith iefs* He To THE Pacific Ocean, &c. 2139 He enteftained a great peribnal efteem for Captain Cook, and profeUed the higheft admiration of his character, and on hearing the recital of his affe£bing cataftrophe, broke forth into many exprei&ons of unaffefled forrbw. In one of the principal apart- ments of the Baron's houfe, he (hewed our gentle- men two pi^ures, one of De Ruyter, the other of Var Tromp, with a vacant fpace left between them, which, he faid, he intended to fill up with the por- trait of Captain Cook *, and for this purpofe he re- quefted that they would endeavour to procure one for him, on their arrival in Great Britain, at any price. During our continuance at the Cape, we met with the moft friendly treatment, not only from the governor, but alfo from the other prin- cipal perfons of the place, as well Africans as Europeans. Falfe Bay lies to the eaftward of the Cape ; and at the diftance of about 1 2 miles from the latter, on the weftern fide is Simon's Bay, the only commo- ' dious flation for ihipping to lie in. To the N. N. eaftward of- this bay, there are fome others, from which, however, it may with eafe be diftinguifhed, by a remarkable fandy way to the N. of the town, which forms a confpicuous object. The anchoring place in Simon's Bay, is fituated in the lat. of 34 deg. 2omin. S. and its long, is 18 deg. 29 min. £. In fleering for the harboui:, along the weftern ihore, there is a fmall flat rock, known by the name of Noah's Ark ; and about a mile to the N. eaftward of it, are others, denominated the Roman Rocks. Thefe are a mile and a half diftant from the anchor- ing place ; and either to the northward of them, or between them, there is a fafe paflage into the bay. When the N. wefterly gales are let in, the naviga- tor, by the following bearings, will be direfbed to a fecure and convenient ftation : Noah's Ark S. 51 deg. £. and the center of the hofpital S. 53 deg. W. in 7 fathoms water. But if the S. eafterly winds ( ,■'"-* tftJ^o Coo>k's T'HIrd .and .la^.t Voy.ag£ ndnds ftould'ootihave eeafed blowing, it isimore '^vifeable Co remain fiarthei' out in ?H or 9 fAthonps ^wator. The bottom Goniins offand, and the an- (Chors, ibtffbre they get hold, fettle fonfidcrably. iAbaut two 'leagues to the eaftward of Noah's Avk, 'ihands ScalJiland, the Difcovery's fiB©atibrought us word,; that, in cxercifing her great 'guns, the carpenter's mate had his arm ihattered i»n a Allocking manner, by ;part of the wadding be- iing left in after a former difcharge ; another man •was fiightly wounded at the fame time. On the 12th,' it began to blow very hard ; and continued fo till the inext day, when we crofl'ed the line to the northward, for the fourth time during our voyage, • in the long; of 26 deg. 16 min. W. ^ On- Saeurday, the^ t2th of Aiiguft, we defcried the Wfeftern coaib of Ireland,, and endeavoured jn ^vxin to ]get into Port Galway, but were com- "pblled^by violent! foutherly winds, to ftand to.the '- N. I'he^ wind i CONTENTS of this WORK. #^# This Publication tiivinf^ exceeded the J^an» thy propofed^ our Subfcrtbers will obferve, that wc have (agreeable tci oxxv promife in o\xr propofals) deli- vered the Overplus (feveral fheeti) Gratis, altho' h has occaiioned an extraordinary and very heavy expencc to *he Publiflver. i>r;//} Kfir; M^a- ui :j>-f,?.i .airo-^ ;• ,i :.Pagc 3 9 373 PREFACE - - - Captain Cook's Firft Voyage Captain Crook's Second Voyage Captain Cook's Third and Laft t Voyage. - - - ^i- . Byron's Voyage - - Wallis's Voyage Carteret's Voyage Dire<3ions to the Binder II85 793 941 1029 2243 . N. B. In writing the Kiftories of the above very valuable and celebrated Voyages round the World, &c. the Editor has not only carefully incorporated all the important Difcoveries made by other Voyagers and Circumnavigators, fuch as Mulgrave, Anfon, Parkinfon, Lutwidge, Ives, &c. &c. but has alfo related the Subftance of the moil remarkable Tra- vels and Journeys to different Parts of the World, particularly thofe of Hanway, Hamilton, (Sarver, Dalrymple, and many others. The great and increaling Sale of this tiniverfally approved Work having already occafioned a frefli Imprbflion of the beginning Nunibers, on new Types, &c. the Whole is now re-publifliing with all the elegant Copper-plates, in only 80 Sixpenny Numbers : one or more to be had at a Time, at the Option of Purchafers - or the Whole complete h^ndfQinely bound and lettered, in Six Volumes, Price only /. 2 8 o DIRECTIONS A--