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GLASGOW : RICHARD oniFFIN AND COMTANY. l83a Al.tX. bMKM.lK. I'RINTER TO THF. VNIVERSiTY. i .t TO THE READER. The following brief notes and memoranda were taken on the spot, and generally in the midst of the scenes I have attempted to describe, having made a point of committing to paper, just as opportunity offered — in the bar-room of a tavern — in a deserted log-house — on the stump of a tree — by the way-side, &c. — whatever occurred to me worthy of remark. From the mode of travelling I adopted, which brought me into familiar contact with the humbler grades of society, I flatter myself that I possessed peculiar opportunities of observing the manners and mode of life of that class of persons, which would necessarily be altogether unknown to the wealthier travellers whose works are in tlie hands of the * public. I had long cherished the desire, with the view of bettering my condition, of emigrating to America ; and was ultimately induced to carry my wishes into effect from the flattering accounts given by Mr Stuart and other recent writers on the subject. It was my fortune to travel for a considerable way in the wake of the Writer above named — how far my experience agrees with his statements the succeed- ing pages will show. It is hardly necessary for me to say, that I make no pretensions to profundity of remark or the graces d^ II r \ of style, my principal object being to impress upon intending Emigrants the necessity of the utmost cau- tion in the degree of credit they may be disposed to give to statements advanced by certain writers, whose object is more to gratify their political predilections or personal interests, than to afford safe and practical information on the subject of Emigration. A con- viction of this invariably flashes upon the mind of the newly-arrived Emigrant ; but alas ! it is then gene- rally too late. When he sees at his very first land- ing hundreds of deluded beings lying huddled to- gether on the streets of New York, Quebec, Mon- treal, or Toronto, in a state of wretchedness and des- titution which no language can describe, having ex- hausted, it may be, their last pitiful five shillings for the privilege of landing, then indeed he begins to feel his own infatuation, and execrates the whole tribe of skippers, land-speculators, decoy-ducks, and would-be liberals, whose selfishness and cupidity have involved him in the general calamity. , Go forth, my little Book, and face the over-fed and over-paid Octavos ! and tell what you saw and learnt. Your more ponderous neighbours may fall on you and crush you ; but do your duty to your country fearlessly ! R. W. EiHnburc/h, .37, Lothian Street, January 183(». .■* . ipress upon itmost can- disposed to ters, whose redilections? nd practical >n. A con- mind of till' then gene- Y first land- hnddled to- ebec, Mon- less and des- , having ex- shillings for >egins to feel hole tribe of nd would-be ive involved the over-fed TOM. saw and iirs may fall uty to your R. W. , A VISIT TO THE UKITED STATES AND CANADA IN 1833. CHAr. I. THE VOYAGE. I HAD a brother %vho emigrated to America many years ago. It M'as before I could remember any thing ; and I may say I never saw him. But I recollect he used to write home to ray father, re- commending him to leave " poor Scotland," as he called it, for that the Lord had caused him to pros- per in a foreign land. He used to compare himself to Joseph the Israelite, who was sokl by bis breth- ren into Egypt ; for he had been entrapp;: i. and in- dented to work several years for his passage, and he considered himself little better than a slave till his term was expired. He had, by the time he ^vrote this, made himself comfortable, and considered him- self of some standing in the place. He described how many acres of ground he had purchased, and that he had several orchards. He also specified the number of his horses, his steers, his cows, hi,s sheep, his hogs, his geese, giving a hai)py picture of his comforts ; and concluding by strongly urging my tather to come out, and bring his family along witli A . ... L . , Tin: VOVAGK. liiiii. l^iit my fiitlior lijul bfoii a]>rojHl in liis youth — luid io\v(lt'r — liad fou^lit with tho I'rondi, and, during a cliargo, had hU body run tlirough M'ith a bayonet. He answered lilm by saying that, pocn* as Scothind Ma.s, he had never seen a coun-try like it, and he ^^■ou](l not leave it in hi^• old age, but meant to lun t; hU ))ones laid along M'itli thosio of his ancestors; and tiiat he M'ould not advise any of his other sons to go out to him. My father was a lover of his country, and true to his King ; and I have been told he was the only KingVman in Canibusbarron «;urlng the time of the Friends of the People, though the village at that time contained ninety-two fami- Irs. He said he Iiated the French, not, as Gold- smith says, because they More M'ooden slioes, but because he had fought against them, and had been nearly spitted by them. I might remark here that, during the dearth in this country, this rich brother never sent us any thing for all his boasting. ]My father and mother died, and so did my next eldest brother ; and the third was killed in Spain at tlie siege of Badajos. My rich brother ceased writ- ing home after these events, as I was personally un- known to him. I wrote to him often, but he took no notice of my letters. He had been in several places, and I wrote to all of them, but still no an- swer. At last I received word from his widow that he Wds dead — that he had sold off* his property some- time previous, intending to come home ; but he had taken the fever, and died in two days' illness. I rc'- ceived in all three letters from her, when our cor- respondence M'as broken up ; nor was it again re- newed, although I sent many letters to her, paying the postage over seas. I have often fretted myself with the desire of going to America ; but my M'ife would never hear of it, although I read to Jier all the flattering ac- counts our travellers had written about it, from Birk- i TUV. VOYAC.E. •Hit"- of hear ac- lirk- hcck (l()\vn\rar«ls, Slio suitl wo had i»KMitv, ami \\\\y fret ourselves, siiui.' we eoukl not insm'e our \erv exisitenee one hour ? Sjie did not covet \vi>aUh ; com- fort was wliat slio wanted while she lived, anri(';i, in order that I might examine every thing with my own eyes, and, if I was likely to better my condi- tion, to remain — if not, to return. Having been at sea before, I knew that I should leave many com- forts behind me ; but I Monld set my mind, and perhaps that of my family, for e\er at rest on that subject. Having observed many advertisements of \-essels lying at Greenock to sail for America on a certuin day, some for Canada, and se\'eral for the Uniti'd States, all of them, of course, having spacious ac- commodation for passengers and emigrants — good ships, seven feet betvreen decks, fa&t sailers, g()o-jijall;int m.itits up, nor tlieir sails bout ; and all of tlu'ui liad ])ut oil' tho day of fciallinj^, some for si.v, and nnwc for ten days. Tlicy hei'minji:ly had not ( yen the erew on hoard, thouj^li many of the emiijrants had already taken u}) their hirthy. As I Itiid no particular port to sail to, I did not taico out my passage till I should observe some 8l;>ns of the .ship pfoing to pca. The delay to which I Mas sub- .iocled Mas no doubt a mortification ; but it AViu- of advantage to the good people of Greenock, Mho reap u plentiful harvest on such occasions M'hen numbers are emigrating ; it is a sad drain, however, on the J! nances of the emigrant. The town seemed to be thronged M'ith strangers ; the different lodging-houses Merc quite full, and the terms high. Numbers of intending em-grants M'ere continually pouring in ; Jijid the fcihops M'ere croM'dcd M'ith such as had to make purchases of sea-stores and other necessaries I'or the voyage. Along the different quays fire- .'grates were placed for the purpose of cooking the ^'ictuals of the passengersi the ship being bound to furnish them "with fuel from the time they take up their births. This is in most cases a necessary re- gulation ; at the same time, as no part of the delay, hoM'ever unavoidable, can be attributed to the emi- grant, I would recommend him to stipulate for a ])enalty at the rate of so much for each day (weather permitting) the ship is detained beyond the period advertised.* Notwithstanding the number of strangers at this time in Greenock, it appeared to me to be a ^•ery quiet place. Here and there, indeed, a sailor might be met M'ith, spinning a yarn, and threading his M'ay to port, or rather, 1 should say, beating to M-ind- • An American captain was lately prosecuted at Liverpool i'or delaying after the advertised day of sailing ; and the court found him liable in one shilling per day to each of the emi- grants from the date when the vessel was advertised to sail. THE voYAcr:. vard ; yet no ofTicions jjolicpmnn camo to int. rFtiv uitli Ij'im. Iiulcc.i I sau' no patrol, oithcr in (»r out of uniform, in tho stroots ; and I was told t!u«rc is very little thicvincf notNvithstandinjf. Al't'-r ten o'clock at uight, the toMu was always as (^uict af a'l, insulated country village. After a teazing interval of ten days (the j'aiiing of the vessels being put olf from day to day till a pro- per cargo was got, or a sufKcient number of ('mi- grants had arrived) I observed the seamen bending on the sails of the John Dennison, bound fle of Greenock ; for he was by this means enabh'd to as- certain what necessaries he would really re<|uire loa- the voyage, both imidements to cook his provisions, and vessels to hold water, the latter being only ser\ed out once a day. Our ship's company now seemed all alive and bustling. I had all my stores in readi- ness, not forgetting pens, ink, and paper, as I had re- solved from the beginning to keep a daily journal of any occurrences I might think of importance. Meanwhile, the seamen wt^ra busy putting the ship in trim. Some of the emigrants might be seen gazing on the nimble sailors running up the .'^hrouds, creeping along the stays, and lying out on the y"^rd- arms. Some were still lingering on the shore, to drink a farewell ghi^s ^vith their friends ; auil othei s Avere making merry on board, at the ne;'r proppeet of leaving Britain and its oppressions, their griefs and sorrows behind them, and entering upon a land where sighing and sorrowing, want and misery, were believed to be unknown. I must confess that, even from the very first, my courage began to fail, as I reflected on the fact, that some of our plausi- ble writers had come back and left that land of ii- a3 . 6 THE VOYAGE. i\ berty r.nd plenty, of wliicli tliey had Loastod so much, and had returned to the land of starvation and taxation, thus g^iving the lie to their OMn words. Julff 11. 1833. — 8 o'clock a. m. A warp was sent out and made fast to a buoy in the fetream. It wfts stretched along the deck, and manned by the sea- men. The captain, wliose name was M'Kissock, deisired some of the passengers to lend a hand to as- sist the seamen ; and, accordingly, many of the emi- grants \vere put oii the warp. When every thing was got ready, a sailor sung the following words, or something like them, to a lively air, and keeping time to the music, as they all pulled : Pull away, my hearty boys — pull away so cheeril}'-, She moves along, my boys — pull away so heartily ! Wo rao for America ; the wind is v/histling cheei'ily. Then bouse away together, boys, ar.d see you do it merrily ! The cheerfulness of the song revived the spirits of the emigrants ; and all of them were filled more or less \vith joyful anticipations of the country they were about to visit. When the ship was brought into the current, the foresail was set, and the warp cast ofl' from the buoy ; and we moved a little further out. The quay was crowded with spectators, who cheered us as we moved along, to which we cordially respon- ded. The day was fine, and the spectacle must have been imposing. We clewed up the foresail, and came to anchor. I observed that at the time we sailed many of our passengers had lieen left on shore. They had been making some further provisions for the voyage, and, notwithstanding all the delays that had occur- red, had been taken by surprise at the last. Some ^vere running with trusses of straw to lie on, some with crockery, and some "with old butter casks to hold water in. They had to employ watermen to bring them and their luggage on board, which oc- casioned another drain on the finances of the emi- ''!m t THE VOYAGE. orant, who begfan to find his little stock of monoy i>nidually melting away. I heard one man when he ccirae on board express himself thus : " Thank " God ! this is the last farthing I shall spend in " poor Scotland," and consoled himself and other unfortunates with the Jiappiness awaiting them in the country of their adoption. About two, p. M. a steamer came out to us, and we M'eighed anchor. She towed us down to the ;incliora<''e called the Tail of the Kank. She then left us, and we again drop])ed anchor. Several more })as.songers came on board here, also some officera in searcli of runaway bankrupts ; one was taken, and ^vith his higgage handed into the boat. It was suspected that others were along with us ; but after a very strict search, neither they nor their luggage ^^ere to be found, and the officers left us seemingly disappointed. July 12. — At three o'clock, a. m. All hands were ordered up to weigh the anchor ; the morning was clear, and the wind fair. The windlass Avent cheerily round with the assistance of the emigrants, who lent a willing hand. The words " Yo heave " ho !"" were sung cheerily hy one of the seamen at the bar. The sails were loosened and sheeted home, and the halyards manned, the emigrants giving every assistance they could. The yards were then hoisted up, a seaman^ singing, in order to keep the hiinds all pulling together, words something like the folIoAving — .^ Sally is a pretty givl — Sing Sally-lio, Sail she is fond of me — Sing Sall^^-ho ! AVc are for America, so cheerily we'll go ; Then pull away strongly, boys, and sing Sally-ho ! The yards were braced round to catch the wind, accompanied by songs of various metres, according to the length of the pull and the number pulling. # 8 THE VOYAGE. y n The ship being now under sail, the passengers were in an ecstasy. I remarked a decided difference in the manner of the captain within the last twenty- four hours. He was elevated in his own estimation far above us emigrants, not deigning even to favour us Avith a look, M'hile the day before he ^vL\s as frank as may be. He walked the quarter-deck with a prouder step than I ever saw done by a Kritisli Admiral. The ropes being coiled away, and the decks cleared, all the emigrants were ordered up to be mustered. A seaman was stationed on each of the tops to see if there were no skulkers aloft ; the ladders were unshipp?d, and the hatches put on. The first mate, and some of the owners and seamen, M'ent below with lights, and overhauled every birth and package, the hold, and the steerage, to see if any one was concealed there. The examination must have been very minute, as a considerable time was spent in this manner below. The captain and some of the seamen stood at the capstan, watching us as if we were a flock of sheep. The party who had been overhauling below now made their appear- ance, and took their stations around the after-hatch- way. The captain held the muster-roll in liis hand ; the scuttle-hatch was shoved back, and the first name on the list was called. We had cacli to pro- duce our tickets on our names being callc d, or pay our passage-money, otherwise we should have been sent ashore. The first person called was scrupulously examined by one of the owners, the captain, and mate ; he had paid his money, and he descended through the scuttle-hatch. The rest were all ex- amined in the same way, and, every thing being found right, were in like manner sent below. The decks being now cleared, the men stationed round tliti hatch took care that no one should come up. The upper works, and the boats on the booms, the chains, and the head of the sliip, were next scrupu- THE VOYAGE. 9 The loiisly examined ; and we had to wait below in the dark till the owners and the captain were convinced that the name of every person on board appeared on the muster-roll. The hatches were at last taken off, and the ladders shipt ; and we were permitted to come on deck. We mustered one hundred and six- teen passengers in the steerage, men, women, and children ; besides six cabin passengers, and one in tlie sacond CH^in. The fare for the cabin was fifteen guineas, for uie secojid cabin six guineas, and for the steerage from four pounds to two pounds ten shil- lings, children being rated at half price. The diffe- rence of the fares in the steerage created a very un- pleasant sensation among those who had paid the full sum of four pounds. But these murmurs soon died away ; Greenock was waxing dim in the dis- tance, and New York, the best port in America, rising to the warm imagination in all the dazzling splendour depicted by some of our modern travellers, skippers, and land-speculators. When a little below Dunoon, the wind veered right against us. The ri\'er being narrow, we had to tack often. This put the passengers to some con- fusion. We were not long sailing in one direction. The pilot would sing out, " Ready about ship/' and the seamen would return answer, *' Ay, ay. Sir,'' — again he would sing out, " All ready," and would be answered with " All ready. Sir." The pilot then cried out, " Helms-a-lee," as the ship turned, the seamen and ei igrants holding on by the braces and sheets. The pilot again sang out, *' Main- " top-sail haul ! let go the tacks and sheets ! pull " aAvay !" When the ship rounded as far as to fill the after-sails, the pilot would sing out " Let go " the lee -fore-braces ; brace round the fore-yards ; " haul aft the lee-sheets ; pull down the tacks ; haul " out the bowlings !" The sheets were hauled aft to songs of various metres, to cause the men pull I 10 THE VOYAGE. together, and the bowlings were hauled out by three short pulls, to words such as these, " We will chuck " — Sally under — the chin ;"" and sometimes to '* One — two — three — belay." About 11, a. m. the wind died away, and we drifted with the tide. A cabin-passenger called Marjoribanks, and the shii^s doctor, (for the John Dennison carried a sur- geon — he got his passage free, to have the uye of his name, and a useless being he was, though he reckoned himself a gentleman), went uji the mizzen shrouds, upon which the captain gave the mate a hint, and went into the cabin, and the mate made a sign to one of the sailors, who communicated it to some of the others. Immediately two of them went up the starboard side, to come down the cat-harpings, having a Ian-yard each to lash the hands of the de- linquents to the rigging. Two others went up the larboard side, and having some spun yarn in their Imnds, proceeded in a minute to seize hold of the ancles of the astonished landsmen, and lashed them to the shrouds. Ere they could recover from their surprise, the other two sailors came down on them ; and, before they were aware, their wrists were also made fast to the shrouds. This raised a hearty laugh from the other passengers at the expence of the adventurous doctor and his associate. The mate told them that, having gone aloft without permission, and having run the risk of falling overboard with- out being observed, they must either pay a fine of a bottle of rum each, to be given to the seamen, or re- main there for one hour. They agreed to the for- mer alternative, and were immediately unlashed, and brought safe on deck. At 2, p. m. wind rose, but against us ; we had to beat down, making little progress. Julj/ 13. — 8, A. M. Blowing fresh, and against lis ; ship making little progress ; many of the pas- sengers bick ; a considerable swell on the sea. Wq I THE VOYAGE. 11 t by tliroo I'ill chuck ?times to A. M. tlio tide. A the ship's d a !?iir- he Ui?e of hough he he mizzen IB mate a te made a ated it to [hem went -harpings, of the de- !nt up the n in their old of the ihed them Toni their on them ; were also a hearty xpence of IThe mate ermission, ard with- fine of a en, or re- the for- |unl ashed, ind rose, king little tl against the pas- lea. Wq . wore all ordered on deck to be again mustered. The ladders were again unshipped, and the hatches put on. The first mate and several seamen went below witli lights to examine anew if any person had crept out of his hiding place, as the officers' search -vvas over. This examination Avas even more minute tlian the former, if I might judge from the time spent upon it. We were again huddled toge- ther on deck ; but our condition was more miser- able than during the former muster, as a great many of the passengers were sick, and the ship was pitch- ing at such a rate as made it no easy matter to stand. After some time, the mate and his party returned from their search, and reported that no one was below. The cabin and the forecastle next underwent a similar scrutiny. Two persons were reported as having paid their passage, but as not bav- in if answered to their names at the former muster. One of them had been taken out by the officers, but the other was not to be found. The captain again held the muster-roll in his hand, standing at the cap- stan, the mate and some of the seamen standing round the after-hatch as before, M'hen the scuttle or storm-hatch was shoved back, and ^ve were all or- dered below as formerly. When ever}'' name was found correct, the upper- works Mere again rigidly examined, but no fraudulent person found. The seamen next were subjected to the same ordeal, and every thing found correct. We were little better below on this occasion than the prisoners in the • lilack Hole of Calcutta, from the ship rolling so much, and the passimgcrs retc'hin«>' ; and we hud to remain a 1oii- ts to be al- -man, who ns only to ate to bo or seven ken up by nbor of et rules was er punish- ptain was ; have no opportu- ay like a ivity, on the when I was dug himself aptain, con- itorily order- IS for his in- the captain ordered him •X ]off hero for eight liours, drifting very near the rock', the water smooth as glass. We had ample o]>)K)r- tunity of examining that stupendous object, as \v{» nearly sailed round it. It seemed quite barren ; but I was told there are many wild goats upon it, and that, the rock being so stei'p, they are ill to be got at, else they would soon be extirpated. A person pays a heavy yearly rent for tlie privilege of obtaining the feathers of the sea fowl that frequent it. It is rarely visited except by fishermen during a storm. Our anchors \vc're taken in upon deck from the bows, and secured on the fore-castle, the seamen chaunting a slow tune to keep time, when bousing on the tackle fall ; and the cables were stowed away below. Water changed this day to green. At about five p. M. a breeze sprung up, but against us. It was resolved that we should take the North Chan- nel. July 15. — At 8 A. M. we were beating off the north coast of Ireland ; the wind against us ; the ship rolling heavily ; the sea very rough ; most of the passengers sea-sick. The rolling of the ship sent the luggage, which had not been properly secured, a-wandering over the steerage, where, coming in contact with the passengers, it occasioned severe bruises and contusions. Seamen were sent below B and the seamen to put the passenger in them. He resisted as much as he could, but was thrown dow^n, some of the seamen holding his arms, the mate sitting on his belly, and the captain himself putting on the irons. The other passengers did not in- terfere. By the struggles he made, and the cruel usage he re. ccived, his body became ruptured, and he was very ill during tlie remainder of the voyage. As soon as he landed, he lodged a complaint with the American authorities, who were not slow in giving him some redress. The captain was fined in one hundred dollars damages, besides expences, and the mate fifty ; to be paid immediatefy, else the sum to be levied from the ship. u THE VOYAGE. Ili it ;i f 'a: to stow away in the hold wliat luggage could be spared, and to secure properly what was left on deck. Jail/ 16. — 8 A. M. Wind had lulled consider- ably ; many of the passengers greatly recovered from sea-sickness. The person who came on board near t!i3 Cloch light-house had been a master baker in Crlasgow, and was running away. He had pre- viously sent his luggage on board, and also taken out his passage under a fictitious name ; and it was well for him he had used that precaution, as the vessel had been overhauled on his account at the Tail of the Bank, as formerly described. We have several other bankrupts on boartl ; one of them a runaway farmer, who acts as a committee-man. He constantly hovers about the quarter-deck, and seems to despise us steerage passengers, and in return is despised by the captain and the cabin-passengers. We have a surgeon too, vrho studied at Edinburgli College, and was previously acquainted with me ; a weaver from Bannockburn ; and a deserter from the army. As the whid lulled to a dead calm, about 4 p. ivr. it was proposed by the master baker that we should get up a dance. All hands or feet that were able seemed to relish the proposal. My acquaintance the isurgeon could play the fiddle well, and also take his glass of grog. The captain having given his con- sent, a gallon of rum was purchased from the ship's steward ; and at six p. m. the quarter-deck being- cleared, the surgeon playing the fiddle, and the master baker acting as master of the ceremonies, the dance and merriment were kept up with great &:piiit till four-bells, or ten p. u. ]\Iany more bot- tles besides the gallon were drunk. July 17. — Blowing a stiff breeze, but against us. We were now off Bloody Foreland, on the north coast of Ireland. The captain, knowing the quality of his ship, did not spare his canvas. He knew that THE VOYAGE. 15 iild be eft on isider- [1 from d near iker in d pre- • taken it was as the at the e have hem a n. He I seems 'turn is lengers. nburgli me; a om the 4} p. M. should able nee the ake his is con- ship's being nd the nonios, great re bot- nst us. north quality w that the Skene, a fast sailin;:? ship, was also bound for New York ; and it was to be a struggle who should arrive first. We saw her leave Greenock, and again at Ailsa Craig. She had taken the South Channel. This day we had our jib-boom carried a^'ay. We were beating, but making by the log* seven and a half knots per hour. The ship was rolling and lurching heavily, the spray often breaking over us ; the day cold, but clear. The passengers were all very sick ; at every lurch the ship gave, smash wt'ut gome of the crockery, betokening some one''s loss. The barrels and chests again broke from their lash- ings. Some that contained potatoes were upset, and the chests, boxes, and barrels, acting on the potatoes as if they were so many rollers, at every lurch the ship gave they wandered from side to side. Many of the passengers were unable to keep their feet from sickness, the steerage, besides, being wet and slippery. To view this commotion among the lug- lage, the passenger being seated in an upper birth and in safety, was very amusing ; but those ^vh^> suffered in their persons or luggage would no doubt take another view of the matter. Many of the chests were damaged and broken ; tea-kettles squeezed Hat ; many shins broken ; potatoes smash- ed, and M'hat w.is ^vhole so mixed, that nobody could tell their own, M'hich caused many alterca- tions. The seamen were again sent below to secure the luggage, which was not accomplished without danger. Jult/ 18. — 8 A. n. Blowing hard and ngaiust us ; the sea throwing out " white sheep ;'' the spray breaking over us incessantly. Our captain was nei- B 2 • The log is used at the end of every watch, to keep the ship's reckoning ; but, when the wind vuries, it is taken seve- ral times during the watch. 16 THE VOYAGE. t'lcr sparing of his masts nor his canva!'. At a])()iit 10 A. M. the foresail was ri^nt in several places; it was clewed up and taken down. The wind increas- i »»«,', tu'o reefs were taken in on the fore and main- topsails, and the yards were hoisted up ; the top- gallant and the royal yards were brought down on deck, and secured. The foresail Mas unbent from the yard, and another sent up and bent on, and a reef taken in and set. Continuing to blow fresher, tlie mizzen was brailed up, and the mainsail furled. The passengers still very sick. At about 11 a. m. our daily allowance of water was served out, con- sisting of a single gallon each. A sea broke over the ship, which made her heel over ; the chests again broke loose ; the water, both foul and clean, was wpset ; the steerage very filthy and slippery ; few could stand without a hold of something. A passenger named Moon had a fall, and his head, coming in contact with a pot, was shockingly cut. The ship's surgeon was sent for to dress the wound, but he was sick, and could hardly either stand or sit from the pitching of the vessel. A wave struck her while he was holding the man's head between his knees in the act of cutting, or attempting to cut, the hair from the wound, in order to apply a plaster, and he was pitched off the chest on which he was sitting between the steps of the after-lad- der. He was himself cut and bruised, and bled profusely, and was carried into the cabin, -where some one had to dress him. The ship's surgeon be- ing thus disabled, the first mate, so soon as he had an opportunity of leaving the deck, came below, cut the hair from around the wound, and dressed it. Both he and the captain were very attentive to Mr Moon. There has been very little cooking going on these two days. Our master baker, who is a broth of a boy for mirth, and our fiddling doctor, have not been seen moving above board these two ^JL 4* THK VOYA(ii:. 17 t al)oiit icos ; it incroat!- l miiin- ;he top- own on nt from , and a fresher, I furled. 1 A. M. \it, con- ike over le chests id clean, ilippery ; ling. A lis head, igly cut. > wound, stand or e struck between pting to apply a »n which after-lad- ind bled where geon be- he had e below, iressed it. Hi to Mr ig going vho is a doctor, ese two days. We are going at tlic rate of ten knots an hour. Jnfy 19. — 8 A. M. Still blowing fresh ; ship rollli:!:: much. It M'as now my turn to assist in bringing »ip a sufficient supjdy of coals for the passengers, to clean out the steerage grate, throw the ashes overboard, and kindle the fire. All this has to be done before the decks are washed. Cooking then commences, and the fire is usually constantly occupied with cook- ing utensils till about 9 o'clock, v. m. Somo ol' our passengers are beginning to recover from their sickness, and, as many of their stomachs have been properly emptied, they S(»cm to be taking good care to replenish. They have thrown a good deal of ballast over board during this short gale, and seeiri to be laying in a fresh supply for another storm. One of the committee-men got himself into a scrape this day by making a frivolous complaint against one of the passengers. The dignity of their office is rather a disadvantage to them, as the other pas- sengers constantly make them their butt. At about 2 ©"'clock, p. M. the wind veered round in our fa- vour, and the ship was laid to her course; tl;e reefs were shaken out of the sails, the top-gallant and royal yards sent aloft, and the sails set ; pretty stiff breeze ; ship making ten knots per hour ; \vater changed to blue, indicating no soundings. July 20. — 8 ©""clock, a. m. Breeze steady ; ship going nine knots an hour ; weather clear, but cold. At 9 ©""clock, A. M. the bedding was ordered on deck to be aired. The sick and wounded were allso brought up. Seamen were sent below to watb, scrub, and swab the steerage, to clean out t!u' births, shift and clean and secure the luggage, and make a general overhauling and cleaning. Indeetl there was great need for all this, as the smell m as The bedding and blankets were accoiclr- ;b 3 sickening. II I I I .. (1 n t I if i« THE VOYAGE. iiifjfly M'cll sliakon ; some tied tlicm to tlic stays and shroudiH, and one unlucky m iglit not havinjj; tied his Manket (irm enough, it Avas blown over board to leeward. He was scolded by his Avife for his carelessness, and laughed at by the rest of the l)asscngers. I introduced myself to the master baker, and found him a very intelligent man, but rather Quixotic in many of his ideas. I asked him what motive he had in leaving his country, and going to America. He said, necessity ; for that all the master bakers had failed within these two years in Glasgow, with the exception of three ; that every master baker within the same period had failed in Paisley. The landlords by the corn-laMs had so manoeuvred for their own interest, that they had almost ruined both the farmer and the baker. TIjs farmer had to pay a high rent for his land, and if his crop failed, he Mas generally ruined ; the baker, again, had to pay him high prices and ready money, and to retail on credit. If the person he served with bread became sick, or fell out of work, the baker could not see his customer starving, and was necessitated to give him credit. Therefore, wages being low, it was very seldom he got payment of the arrears, while it generally hap- pened that the current account also had to be ad- ded as a sinking fund of loss to the baker. It was his opinion that Scotland was fast going to ruin ; both our talent and capital were fast leaving us. " You have, read,"" said he, exultingly, " what " Birkbeck, and Howison, and Mr Stuart of Dun- *• earn, have written about America. The last *• mentioned writer is a true-hearted and an ho- *' nest man, and a real lover of liberty. It is a " curse in Britain for parents to have a numerous *' family, but it is a blessing to have them in Ame- " rica. There," said he, pointing to Mr IMoon, " is a person who, with his \>'ife and eleven children. THE voyac;k. 19 lie stays haviii}? wn over wife for t of tlie master nan, but kcd him try, and that all kvo years e ; that iod had orn-laMs hat they e baker, his land, ruined ; h prices If the or fell iistomer credit, dom he lly hap- be ad- It was o ruin ; ring us. " what of Dun- .^he last an ho- lt is a limerous Ame- Moon, hildrcn. v> n '* some of them ^^rnwn up men and women, liave " been forced to leave the country before any little " money they had formerly saved was spent ; and " I am sure they will [(rosper in America.* I have," continued he, *' .mother icason for ^oin}^ thither. " I M'as walking lately in IVIr 's inclosures!, • While in America, I inade it a practice, wherever I wont, to enquire if any persons fVoni Scothuid resided in the neiglibourliood, how long they had been out, what sort ol' fliaracters tlioy horc, and if they were hapju' and dolnj^ well. Aeoordingly, in the end of November, when I was about three hundred miles from New York, I learned that a family of this name had arrived before the fall. I eall- id at their residence, a miserable log-house, and found they wore indeed my old fellow-jiassengers. INIrs INFoon was seated bt'fove a miserable fire burning in a hearth such as is common- ly used in the country. I observed many a chink between the stones of which the chimney was built, and also between the logs. Her hands were resting on her knees, and I could easily perceive that 1 was an unwelcome visitor. The furni- ture of the house was most wretched, and she was miserably dressed in coarse worsted stuff'. What a contrast did I be- hold, in such a short time, between her present situation and that of the highly accomplished, cheerful, intelligent, and well dressed lady, I had so lately known her to be ! She seemed completely broken down in her spirits. A daughter, who had never recovered from sea sickness, was dead ; and the rest of the family had all taken the fever of the place, and were now dispersed in various directions. Her husband had purchased land before seeing it, at the rate of three dol. lars per acre, but the soil proved to be completely useless. She told me she did not even know where some of her family were ; they could get no work to do, and had to leave their parents in search of subsistence. Her husband had paid about forty-five pounds for their passage out, and it had cost him fitly pounds more before they got settled. They were now complete, ly ruined. I told her I was about to leave the country, and ex- pected to be home in time to keep my New yeax*. Slie made no reply, but shook her head. I saw she was in a declining state, and was not likely to be much longer for this world. Her husband was from home when I made this visit — Our ilowery travellers never drew a picture like this ; but such a sight became familiar to me in the course of my travels, and so must it have been to them. They however were filling their pockets by gulling the people at home, and therefore had not the honesty to take any notice of such scenes. 20 THE VOYAGE. 1 !, ■ t I (( <( (( <« it i( <( a a " but on the foot-path. Another person was with me, and he had a loaded gun on his shoulder. A hare having started befoi'e us, he fired, and killed it, and put it into his great-coat pocket. The game-keeper, hearing the report of the gun, came up to us, and discovered the hare in my com- panion''s pocket, and challenged him for it. Un- luckily he knew me, though my friend was a stranger to him. Accordingly I received a sum- mons to attend the court at Paisley. Thinking the law could not touch me, (for I foolishly ex- pected it ^rould require to be proved that I had killed the hare) I stated the case to a lawyer, and he agreed in opinion with me, and promised to " defend me. I appeared in court, and my coun- " sel was there also ; but he never spoke a word iu " my favour. I \vas fined twenty-five pounds ; and " my lawyer had the impudence to send in a long " account against me, M'hich made the shot amount *' to above forty pounds, though I had no hand in " the matter. I was unable to pay this sum ; so I " collected as much money as I could, and here I '*' am. I shall not be obliged to fly from America *' for shooting hares or any other kind of game.* " I have two excellent fowling pieces with me, and " will have rare sport. There is no aristocracy to " make game and other obnoxious laws in that " happy and free country. — And what may be your " motives for quitting Scotland,"*' he inquired at me. I said, " Just to see if our travellers have given " a true report regarding America, and to stay or " return as 1 may think proper.""* " I am certain " you will not return,"" was his reply. July 21. — 8, A. M. Wind in our favour, but * America is miserably deficient in game, consequently there can hardly be such a thing as game-laws ; but it is "a fine of 25 dollars to kill a deer. iMt* was with oiilder. A and killed ket. The gun, came my com- r it. Un- ?nd was a ed a sum- Thinking alislily ex- hat I had iwver, and •omised to my coun- i word in mds ; and in a long )t amount hand in im ; so I id here I America THE VOYAGE. 21 )f game. me, and ocracy to in that be your ed at me. ve given 3 stay or 1 certain our, but isequently •ut it is a little of it ; ship going three knots an hour ; day cold and clear ; studding sails set. Numerous par- ties busy playing cards at the rate of one penny per game, M'hich was spent in rum. Many were overhauling their provisions ; some seemed to have laid in as much as M'ould have sufficed for a six- months cruize ; some ate voraciously, cooking fresh supplies of victuals continually. Our jib-boom was spliced and fixed, and the jib bent on and set. The master baker Ment round all the passengers to gather money for another dance, and to purchase rum for the dancers. He was very successful. The wind being moderate, the dance commenced at seven, p. m., the master baker taking charge of the rum, and giving a glass occasionally to those that joined in the dance. Such as did not dance got none. I observed that he saw well to himself and his party. The surgeon, who still acted as musi- cian, was not stinted in his allow^ance. The master baker spurred on the dancers by shouting and hal- looing. It was kept up with great spirit till four bells, first watch, i. e. 10 o''clock, p. m. July 22. — 8, A. M. Cold and foggy ; could not see a mile from the ship ; going by the log two and a-half knots per hour ; passengers playing cards for rum; the master baker very noisy. The captain will draw a great deal of money for the drink he supplies. At about three, p. m., it became piercing cold, so that the passengers could not keep on deck. July 23. — 8, A. M. Foggy, and so dense that we could not see the flying-jib boom-end. About 2, p. M. it began to blow a stiff breeze, when the sky cleared ; studding sails and top-gallant and royal sails were taken in. At 4, p. m. ship going six knots per hour; passengers formed into groupes play- ing cards, drinking, aud singing ; very cheerful. July 24. — 8 A. M. Blowing fresh, but rather against us ; ship close-hauled, going six knots an .i: ri ■ 1 I 1*! il 22 THE VOYAGE. hour ; weather cold and hazy ; vapour so thick, that it descended from the rigging and the leaches of the sails in large drops, so that it was disagree- able to remain on deck. At 2, p. m. it cleared ii little ; and a number of us came on deck to breatlio the air, and watch the commotion of the sea, which ever and anon cast up ** white sheep,'"" as seamen term the froth thrown up by the surge. It is a lands-man's idea to say that the waves rise moun- tains high, which leads many to suppose that the waves roll and follow each other in succession, as they do when expending their strength on the beach. The sea in a storm presents no such appearance, but it is not easy to define it ; and it is impossible to paint it so as to please a seaman. It may be com- pared to tea cups reversed. One rises and bubbles up in froth ; in a moment it is gone, and is succeed- ed by another, which in like manner disappears in- stantaneously. The spray is seen at times rising from a thousand of these eminences, which rise and fall as quick as thought. A number of passengers were standing on the weather-gangway and quarter- deck, admiring the sight, and watching the sea- fowl called the stormy petrel, as it rose up on a pinnacle, and again seemed to sink into a gulf, though in perfect security and at its ease. A lady neatly dressed in white, and a gentleman, were standing beside the companion. I happened to be on tlie forecastle, which was raised. A sea, one of tlie above mentioned undulating cups or surges, rose at the weather fore-chains, and broke over the ship ; many of the passengers were rolled along witli the waves into the lee-scuppers. The lady and gentleman were both upset, and they rolled to leeward along with the rest. The lady got a complete ducking ; her dress was completely deranged, and she was carried into the cabin. Even the captain "was taken by sur- prise ou this occasion ; he staggered to leeward, but THE VOYAGE. 25 caught hold of a rope, and saved himself from fall- ing. He got his share of the wetting, however. This cleared the deck of idlers for the present. A cask with young onions for the use of the cabin passengers had been taken up to the main-top, and lashed there, that they might keep fresher, and be in greater security. Down it came with a terrible smash on the quarter-deck ; and had any person been beneath, he would have certainly been killed. The onions rolled over-board, to the great mortifica- tion of those for whom they were provided. Many of the passengers again took the sea-sickness, *%'hich made it disagreeable to remain below in the steer- age. July 25. — 8 A. M. Blowing fresh, but more in our favour ; ship going six knots an hour ; the weather clear, and the sun \rarm. At 9 a. m. the bedding and the sick and wounded, or bruised, and the lazy, were all ordered up to be aired. We have both men and women among us who seem to lie in bed continually. Seamen were sent below to clean and wash the steerage. A whale blew within a mile of the sliip ; and ^ve obsierved it turn its ponde- rous body in the water. July 26. — 8 A. M. Wind in. our favour, but lull- ed nearly to a calm ; studding-sails set ; ship going two knots an hour, and rolling heavily. Were amused by observing so many porpoises, some rising to breathe close under our .side. Many of our pas- sengers now brought out tlieir guns to have a shot at them. From the number of muskets on board we should ha^'e liad no occasion to be afraid of pirates. Tliey had been brouglit to shoot the wild geese and turkies tliat some of our travellers in America de- scribe so fluently, as well as the (/ame that they tell us is so plentiful. Tlie first mate said to me, in a conversation regarding tliis latter subject, " What " fools these are ! There is no r>ijvp In the world f '■ 24 THE VOYAGE. ill >. " where game is so scarce as in America. They " will find it hard enough to get food and employ- ** ment. Money they will not easily procure. It " is a poor miserable country. All idea of hunting " and fishing will be soon out of their minds when " they come to see the reality." I cannot say whether our riflemen killed or wounded many, but at any rate much powder M'as spent. The second mate harpooned one of these porpoises, and brought it on board, to the wonder and amusement of many of the passengers. As our ship rolled much, some men wi^e sent into the hold to shift the cargo. The master baker gathered a contribution among the passengers to purchase rum, and to get up another dance in the evening ; the captain contributed half a gallon. The dancing commenced at seven, and was kept up with great spirit till ten ; the master baker always acting as master of ceremonies and steward. He had reserved some of the rum when all was over, and he and his party continued drink- ing, singing, and huzzaing all night, to the annoy- ance of such as were sick as well as those who \ll^ished to go to sleep. • July 27. — 8 A. M. Studding-sails taken down. It began to blow fresh, and the top-gallant and royal sails were taken in ; a reef taken in on the fore, the main, and the mizzen top-sails; ship going close hauled six knots an hour. We saw a ship to windward. She made signals to us, but our captain did not understand them, and we had no signals on board, but we hoisted our ensign. This is the first sail we have seen since we left the Clyde. July 28. — 8 A. M. Wind moderate, but against us ; ship rolling much. At 10 a. m. saw a ship bearing down on us ; she came under our stern, and hove-to. She proved to be the Eliza of London, and bound for that port ; had been out fifteen days from St John's, Nova Scotia. Compared reckonings tma THE VOYxVGE. £o ^i M'ith her, and found ourselves in latitude 47° S9" ; lon^^itude 35" 20^ Our captain desired her to re- port us all well when she arrived. The master baker collected money again to have a dance, whicli commenced as usual at seven, and continued till ten p. M. Julj/ 29. — 8 A. M. Blowing a stiff breeze, and in our favour ; ship going six knots an hour ; sen rough ; ship rolling much ; weather cold and cloudy. At about twelve o'clock noon our day'^s allowance of water had been newly served out. A number of passengers who messed together kept their's in a barrel open at the end ; it stood in mid-ships, and had not been properly secured. The rolling of the ship caused it to wander from its place. A woman, mIu) had been confined to bed for three days with sea sickness, occupied a low birth nearly opposite. The barrel, as if it had happened designedly, shifted to- wards her birth, and had nearly reached it, when the ship gave a heavy lurch, and upset the barrel, and nearly the whole contents fell upon her. She sprang out of her birth in a twinkling, not at all re- lishing such a shower-bath. It was lucky for her that the wa^er was clean, for her bed and blankets, as well as her own person, got a complete soaking. The laugh resounded at her expence when she made her appearance wringing her wet clothes. A carpet- weaver from Bannockburn, formerly alluded to, who was bound for Baltimore, was sitting in high good humour dangling his feet over the birth he oc- cupied ; it was a high one, and opposite to mine. He was replenishing his snuff-box from a chrys- tal bottle (he seemed to have laid in a good store for a long voyage, and had it neatly packed and well secured), and making merry at the poor wo- man's plight, when the ship gave another lurch, and he was pitched^ bottle and all, into midshi][»s C t--" 2() THE VOYAGE. under the fore-ladder. The bottle was smashed in a thousand pieces, the precious snuff scattered all over the wet deck, and he himself left sprawling under the steps of the fore-ladder, Avith considerable (contusions. His late mirth was now changed to lamentation, and the laugh was retorted upon him. Even the woman forgot her mischance in beholding tlie rueful countenance of the carpet-weaver, and laughed as loud and long as any of us. Indeed, every misfortune that befel any one in our ship was a source of amusement to the rest. Should you get a fall such as Mr Moon did, or even fracture your scull, it occasions a hearty laugh. Should a sea break over the ship, and lay you sprawling among the wa- ter in the lee-scuppers, or even if you were washed overboard, it creates a laugh. Should you slip a foot on the ladder, which is usually slippery, with such a thing as a boiling kettle in your hand, and get your person scalded, or an arm or a leg broken ; or if you are in the act of cooking your victuals while the ship is pitching, and the kettles on the fire are upset, and the contents poured upon you, all the sympathy that you meet with is a hearty laugh at your expence. Every one bound for Ame- rica laughs at his comrade's misfortunes, let them be ever so serious ; for he is assured there is neither sighing nor sorrowing there. At about 4 p. m. the Mdnd lulled to a calm ; studding sails were set. The master baker mustered his forces for the dance, which continued till 10 p. m. ; much rum was drunk ; the master baker spurring the dancers on, and very noisy. July 30. — 8 A. M. Wind light, but in our fa- vour ; studding-sails set ; ship going four knots an hour. A cooper, who was going to Illinois with his family, and whose birth was next to mine, had laid in a great store of eggs packed up in a J: ox with salt, in order to preserve them ; he intended to THE VOYAGK. 27 iir fa- 3ts an with e, had K with ed to have eggs and bacon for his dinner this day, and set about opening the box. To his great disappoint- ment, however, he found that all of them were bro- ken, and formed by their admixture with the salt a strong cement. They were entirely useless, and had to be thrown overboard. This was a mortify- ing circumstance to him, but he was only laughed at. The master-baker and his party have been en- gaged all day playing cards, singing, and drinking. At about 6 p. M. I met him on deck, and asked if he was to get up a dance this night, as the weather was calm. He said, " I do not think it, for I cannot <* get as much money contributed as will purchase a *^ sufficient quantity of rum to keep the spirits of the *' dancers up.^ iVt 7 p* i<* ^ ™6t the surgeon, the master-baker^s boon companion, on deck. He had two bottles of rum in his pocket, which he had just purchased from the steward. I said, '^ You have " had a merry day, doctor." He said, " Not very. *' I have gained four bottles of rum from the master- " baker, which a few of us have drunk together, *' and he has gained these two from me. Will you '< come below and take a share ?" I declined the offer. The party continued drinking, singing, laugh- ing, and hallooing till past midnight, to the great an- noyance of the rest. August 1. — 8 A. M. Blowing fresh, and in our favour ; studding-sails taken down ; top-gallant and royal-sails taken in ; sea uugh ; rain falling in tor- rents ; weather cold. A vessel passed us, but at a considerable distance; she had her main-top-mast carried away, and seemed otherwise disabled. August 2. — 8 a. m. A dead calm ; sea like glass, not a ripple on the water, only a heaving motion to show there was life in it. The studding-sails were set, but they hung perpendicularly with their own weight, and, as the ship rolled, flapped idly against c2 98 THE VOYAGE. tb« mMti. We lay like a log, tbe rudder having no co«tr<4 over ui. It not only rained, but poured th« whole day* We naust now be in the Gulf Stream, firon tb« quantity of wreck and eea^weed lying iround un. The nautiluses (or Portuguese men-of* wvt$ 99 our seamen call them) seem busy amusing tbtmsdlves, and enjoying the rain. A^t^9t 3.^ — 8 A. M. Still becalmed ; sun warm ; ^y dear and fair ; seamen busy tightening the back- ftayi, a9 our masts under the canvas sometimes lued to bend like twigs of willow. A general over- iMuluig togk place this day among the passengers^ proviitona; much loaf-bread, cakes, and biscuit, WfTQ foimd to be mouldy and not eatable, and were 9Mlt ove^-board, also a considerable quantity of beef awd mutton. The captain, in order to indulge the oabln passengers, hoisted out the jolly-boat, that they Hilght enjoy a shooting excursion, and I was per- mitted to join them. Each of us had guns to shoot th# stormy petrels, or Mother-Carey's chickens, as thtaeamen caU them» and the sea-gulls. Though tUl^ were very numerous, they had never come mar enough to the ship to be within shot of our liieiiieQ, who were always on the watch for an op- pQftimi^ of practising, believing that they should have such excellent sport in America shooting wild t^kies. We pulled around the ship to a good dis- lAlu^e fer lour hours and upwards, and fif^ rounds SK% least were fired, but only two petrels and a gull ll^ed and wounded. When we returned on board, 1 fieroeived a large nautUus floating by our boatv and having dipt a pannikin in the water, and cap- tUMred him» I drew him up on board ; I then put him into a bucket of waler to show my wondering fellow- padsepgers how he poised himself with his cables liapgi^g down. A boy came forward and touched hjm before I was aware, aa I knew these animals when touched eject a fluid that raises the skin into- ■#^ THE VOYAGE. 20 blisters, and is very painful for a long time. Tlu' boy cried bitterly, and having rubbed his face ^vith his hands, it also blistered. His father came * Ms assistance, making a mighty fuss, and, seizing holu of the nautilus, chucked it overboard, in which action he got both his hands properly blistered. The master baker and his squad have had a complet<» day'*s drinking and singing ; and the evening is to conclude with a dance. We have now been be- calmed for forty-one hours. At 9 p. m. a breeze sprung up ; the studding-sails were taken down ; the dance broke up ; wind in our favour. At 10 p. M. ship going six knots per hour. August 4. — 8 a. m. A stiff breeze, and in our favour ; ship going six knots an hour. We observed a large shark in our wake, and attempted to bait him with a piece of beef; but he seemed aware of our intentions, and refused the tempting morsel. Several pieces more were chucked overboard, witli- out hook or line ; but he allowed them to pass, holding on his way in our wake, neither looking to the right side nor the left. The passengers are now busy putting their fishing-tackle in order, as the captain has promised, when we come opposite the Banks of Newfoundland, to lay the ship to for a few hours, to give us some amusement in fishing cod. We saw several dolphins sporting in the sun, and pursuing the flying-fish. Some of them having come close to the ship''s side, the second mate took his leister and line, and, descending into the fore-chainis, sent the leister deep into the body of one that had come within his reach. It was hauled on deck ; and we observed, as its life ebbed, that the colour of its body instantaneously changed into every variety of beautiful hues. It was about seven feet from the tip of the snout to the tail, and about two feet in circumference at the thickest part. The captain, c a ■%■ I-.. > 30 THE VOYAGE. finding the master baker and his party sucli good custonners, proposed to raise the price of his rum twopence per gill ; but upon its being represented to him that a resolution had been entered into to pur- c'liase no more from him unless the old price wan restored, he was compelled to yield to their de- mands. This affair being settled, the master baker and his party re-commenced drinking and hallooing, seemingly resolved to make up tlieir lee-way for the lime they had lost in the negotiation. The captain, in order to bury the transaction in oblivion, directed the master baker to get up a dance in the evening, and he would contribute a gallon of rum to the en- tertainment ; which was accordingly done. There M'ere two parties dancing at a time, one on the star- board, and the other on the larboard side of the surpass himself on this occasion ; holding a gallon measure full of grog in one hand, and a pannikin in the other, lie continued cheering them on with his voice and gestures, and from time to time revived their flag- ging spirits by an application to the gallon measure. Our captain will certainly make a good sum of money from the quantity of rum he sells. August 5. — 8 a. m. Dead ca!m; ship lying like a log ; sails flapping against the masts ; the sun shining bright and warm ; sea a beautiful blue, and clear, and the water milk-warm ; much wreck lying around us. At 12 noon a breeze sprung up; our main-top-gallant-sail M'as split in several places ; our royals and top-gallant-sails were taken in. As it continued to blow fresher, we reefed our top-sails, and the top- gallant-yards and royals were taken down on deck and secured. At 4 p. m. it blew a gale, the ship pitching and rolling violently ; going lih knots an hour ; many of our passengers again took the sea- sickness ; the master baker and his party very quiet. At 6 p. M. it came on a drizzling rain, and so foggy luiet. THE VOYAGE. that one could not see a furlong from the ship t ea< ther very cold , shewing us a sample of the climate on the }3anks of Newfoundland. (We were now on i;he Bank.) AugnstQ. — 8 a. m. Blowing fresh; ship going 8, V knots an hour; weather cold and foggy. At 12 o'clock noon the ship was hove-to, and the deep-sea lead tried, anc soundings found in 180 fathoms ; mo again made sjiil. At 2 p. m. the lead again tried, soundings in 1 30 fathoms ;, tried again at 4, sound- ings found in 30 fathoms. The captain gave orders to bait the lines, and he would lay the ship to at o p. XI. All hands were now busy fixing on the hooks, and b liting them ; this was a cheerful re- creation. The fishing now commenced ; some were very successful, others caught nothing. Then came on the process of frying, in which the women assist- ed. The fish may be said to have been broiled alive. We all messed together, each sharing' freely with his companions ; every one happy, the master baker glorious. The fog was so dense and full of vapour that it dissoli ed on us in large drops of rain ; we could not see a mile from the ship ; sea very rough ; ship rolling much ; the weather extremely cold. It began to blow very fresh, and in our favour ; our sails M'ere filled, and the ship laid to her course ; at about seven p. m. ship going nine knots an hour. August 7 — 8 A. M. Blowing fresh and in our favour; ship going nine knots an hour; weather cold and foggy ; M'c could not see a furlong from the ship; mach soa-weed floating past us. 12 noon, no observation for these two days ; ship rolling much ; many of the passengers again sick ; decks >\ et with tlie fog. August 'i. — 8 a. m. Blowing a gale; our fore- j^ail was split in several places ; we lowered our top- sail-yards and close-reefed them, and brailed up our spanJ^er; the foresail was quickly unbent from the 'i i' 32 THE VOYAGE. yard, another was sent up antl bent on ; wc wore close-hauled, the spray breaking continually ovei" us, sometimes as high as the fore-yard. At 12 noon, foggy ; no sun ; ship rolling and pitching much ; many of our passengers sick ; disagreeable to be on deck, but worse to be below. August 9. — 8 a. m. Blowing hard, and against us; sea rough ; day foggy and cold, but the water warm ; Avreck and soa-we(?d in great quantities ; ship going four knots an hour. A swallow was seen skimming round our ship, and occasionally perching on the yard-arms or stays ; it had lost its way, and ap- peared inclined to have confidence in man ; it seemed to have felt its own destitute and helpless condi- tion, and even alighted on our boats in midships, approaching nearer and nearer to us. We M'atched its motions without disturbing it, reflecting that some of us were perhaps wandering as far out of our way, and in a short time might be equally help- less. Despair and want humble the proudest heart in a short time. Crumbs were thrown to the little desolate wanderer, but it did not take any ; its life seemed drawing to a close, as I must confiess its disregard for us showed that hope was extinguished. When I saw the poor little wanderer fall from the cross-jack yard-arm into the sea, I felt extremely sor- ry, as I had some forebodings that its fate was emblematic of what mine might probably be. August 10. — 8 A. M. Wind lulled nearly to a calm ; studding-sails set ; weather clear, and the sun warm. The captain ordered an empty pun- cheon to be hoisted on deck, and the end to be driven out, that the passengers might fill it with water, and enjoy the luxury of bathing. The wa- ter being very warm, it was indeed a great luxury, and men and women availed themselves of it with as much zest as if they were so many ducks. There is little ceremony ia such matters on board an eml:* I THE VOYAGK. 3.3 we M'ore illy ovei* 12 noon, f much ; to be on gainst us; T warm ; ip froing kimminj;( • on tln5 and ap- t seemed 8 condi. nidsliips, watched ing that out of lly help- !st heart the little its life rtfess its guished. rom the fiely sor- ate was • ■ly to a and the ty pun- 1 to be it with 'he wa- luxury, it with There m emi^ jrrant nliip. At four p. m. the wind rose ; studding- f'lils taken in ; again we were close-hauled. Jfn/Kst 11. — 8 A. M. Ulowing a stiff breezo, but rather aj^'alnst us ; ship close-hauled ; weather dull, and much rain. At nine a. m. our main-top-gallant- .sail was split in several pieces ; it was taken down, and anotl'iT sent up and bent on. Our ciiptain seemed to know both his ship and his spars, and >va8 not afraid to put them to the test ; sometimes they used to bend like a M'illow twig. We have a constant succession of sheets of lightning ; passengers could not remain long on deck for the wet ; some were formed into groupes telling stories, and singing songs. The master baker and his party were playing cards, drinking, and huzzaing. We have a tailor among us who is dull of hearing ; he is making money by mending clothes, and seems to know how to make charges. AVe have also a watch-maker from Bath- gate, who seems to have studied the climate we are in, for the main-springs of most of our watches have given way from the heat, and he replaces them with a new one, at the rate of five shillings each. These tradesmen are making money, \vhile the others are only spending. August 12. — 8 a. m. Wind moderate; ship go- ing four knots an hour ; day clear ; the sun warm ; the water-puncheon in continual requisition for bath- ing both by men and women. We saw a ship ris- ing in our wake, M'hich neared us at a rapid rate ; by 12 noon, she was alongside of us. She was a brig, and had only her fore and main top-sails set, but close-reefed ; we had our top-sails and our fore- sails and mizzens set, and close-reefed. Both of us M'ere close-hauled, and the spray M'as breaking in- cessantly over both. The brig had as much canvas as she was able to carry, and so had we ; but she out-sailed us. She came up under our lee-counter, and her captain hailed us ihrough his speaking-trum- ' r 34 THE VOYAGE. P^tf but we could nnf r«oi -«."';• he hear o„r capta"„ "th" l^'l^' ""^ ^^'''' "<»• 'ore IieJd „p „„ each sh n A ''°"<' "'»« t'i"o- f ip was Zrked ^„ he™ Th "T^ *'"' "»'« "^ "'« from, next «,here °ve t.^; ,^ " ,""' P"''' '<-« «"ied Jiad been out, and tZT.^T'^ '"' ''o"' I«„„ „,. l-Wch ^e supposed ZXe^t r" 1^^'"'^' '" found to be the Willi ,mTn ? fe" ^ ''« 1"'> »e fi»- that port from bXv h1.^"' ^'"*' •'°""'' days from Gibraltar The 'rfiff ""^ »"' "^'s'^een reckonings ^-as nearly five h5''™? '•"'"'"en our ■nstrument M'as a chronomete^T- '""S''"'''' ' »"'• mon«.atch_so,vecoSSb,f^*"^ only a com- the more correct one Th. f^ "" '•«*«''inff vvas and she soon shot Alnd t*t t? '^% ^«^'^<» "W, ter m the wind, fl^e » ' in n f"? """''''^ «<> li- ''f When she hLdSedT'''^^''' "»'' ^^^ P^tern, ^,e observed thT^ttbT'" *'"'"' >"gs, when we immedktX !.?;!''"« °" ">« howl- the helm hard up Sh» „ ^ '^'f ">« ^ame, and kept •"■t just as she ^ame 'ir"' "J! "^ *'''^'> howevT; under our lee-counTer 7J "''• '"f i'^^'"» came 'owed to ^hake M he wi„T" ^'u'""^ ^"'^ "- di-opped astern. 1 hM t^' ""^ *« ""ce m„re ,. was soon „p with us h,,/,^? '3' "»''« ««". and 'I'f^ in a lin^ with our 'weatUr'! "T '"" J'^-^""-" •!«'"& close-hauled and TaM a,?.!*'"' '«"'" ''«^««'s «!We. Had she weathered us ,„T ' T"^ ^ P»'- s'de, and then run foil of ,?, t ""■' ""^ g"* a'ong- the worst of it as on.! ' *'"' '^""^ have had fhip.and the a ^rverr" T" t"** « P«t tempt to weather ZZI!7 ™,"^''- Seeing*^ his at' ^Z '"^"r. and as he c^m:':,t'''*^ ""P'^"' ^as'd under our ]««, his main-mastV '* "J'' ""<' «'"«« tore-chains, he amin Lm j """"^ ^''''east of our »ouId info'r™ tl e^c izens of n' 't'"^ **«" *« were coming with a ijr ^^"^ ^"'■'^ that we S '"'" " '■''« cargo. Our captain le! THE VOYAGE. 35 said, nor 't, as the as therc- ne of the we sailed long we itude in brig- we Iv, bound eighteen een our de; our a com- ling was i away, [ to flat- 3 passed distance le bowl- nd kept wever ; came ere al- more il, and -boom [vessels s pos- along- ,e had [verful is at- eased close our It he we re- l)lied, " Do so ; and be sure you inform them ho^r " you have weathered us." Away she shot a-head, the sea breaking constantly over her ; and long be- fore sun-down her masts were sunk below our horizon. Many flying-fish were seen skimming a little above the waves, closely pursued, I have no doubt, by their mortal enemy the dolphin. One of tliem in passing over the ship fell on deck, and was anxiously examined by the passengers. Tiie seamen were put to holystone the deck, and as they rubbed, one of them sung a song, rubbing and keeping time. Others were sent to scrape and paint the masts, blacken the yards, and tar the rigging before coming into port, in compliance with the quarantine laws. August 13. — 8 a. m. Blowing fresh ; ship go- ing five knots an hour, close-hauled. We had a young woman on board, a daughter of Mr Moon formerly mentioned ; she had never recovered the sea sickness, and was supposed to be dying. A large shark had been noticed following us for several days, and was seen for some time under our counter. It is said that these animals smell disease in a ship, and follow it to prey on the dead. This fellow, however, was out of his reckoning, for he was baited and brought on board. Being a dangerous customer, a block was fastened to the main-shrouds, and he was hoisted up ; part of his tail, however, lay on the deck, and he kept flapping it about at a fearful rate. One stroke of it would have cut a man in two. Our carpenter approached him with an axe, and cut oft' a piece of his tail, which threw him into convulsions Avhich were quite frightful ; but being deprived of his tail he was not so dangerous. He soon died after this ; and mc had then an opportu- nity of examining his mouth and gullet at our lei- sure. August 14. — 8 a. m. Blowing fresh; ship mak- ing five knots per hour, close-hauled, and rolling 36 THE VOYAGE. I much. This being Sunday, a general cleaning took place. About 11a. m. a great number of us were standing on the weather-gangway, and along th*' quarter-deck, holding on by the gunwales or any thing else that suited the purpose, looking at tho commotion of the sea. as it rose up in pinnacles, which dissolved as fast as they were formed, leav- ing deep troughs where they fell. The mtaster baker and the musical surgeon were laughing and holding forth at a great rate, when suddenly we shipt a sea from the fore-chains to the companion, and both of them, along with several others, men and women, were driven over the hen-coops imder the boats in midships ; others rolled to leeward, and lay weltering like drowning rats among th.e water in the scuppers. Fortunately for me, I happened to be standing holding on by the windlass, and did not participate in the general disaster. The ladies having been released from their embarrassing situa- tion, stood shaking their feathers like so many gcet^e, and made a hasty retreat, amidst a general roar of laughter, the master baker, though himaolf a prin- cipal sufferer, joining heartily in the mirth. His merriment, however, was rather premature, for ju.-^t at this moment we shipt another sea, which sent him into his old quarters. Another shout of laughter accompanied his disaster ; but he considered it too much of a good thing to be drenched at this rate, and made a hasty retreat, in order that, having been tho- roughly soaked on the outside, his inside might share the advantage by being properly saturated Vrith rum. Atigiist 15. — 8 A. M. Wind veered round in our fiivour ; ship going free, making eight knots per hour ; it had rained heavily all night, and was still very wet. At 10, a. ar it cleared up, and the sua shone with dazzling spl lur. Notices M'ere posted up on the fore and after-hatchways, stating that the captain was to muster the passengers at 2, p. m., THE VOTAGK. 37 sanlng took of lis wQro along the les or any iiig at till' pinnacles, rmed, hnv- ^lie master ighing and iddenly wo CJJinpanion, (thors, men oops under eward, and the water [ happened 3S, and did The ladiey ssing situa- nany gce^e, ral roar of self a prin- lirth. His re, for }uA L'h sent him )f laugliter crcd it too is rate, and ^ been tho- night share Avith rum. jnd in our knots per id was still lid the sun rere posted [ig that the ; 2, p. M., when every person, young and old, must pay hini five shillings each, being the charge for hospital- money exacted by the American government from «very person who lands on their shores. The notice* stated that it was hoped no demur M'ould be made to this demand, as the laws were so strict that the ship would not be permitted to come into port till the sum was paid. This was a damper to us all. My ticket bore that for the sum of three pounds ten shillings I was to be landed at New York ; many of the other tickets were worded in the same man- ner. Mr Moon had taken out a passage for himself and family, amounting to- thirteen persons, from an appointed agent, who gave him a receipt for the money, and a letter stating that they were to bo landed at New York free of any further demand. We were yet five hundred miles from it by our reck- oning. Considering it an imposition, we resolved to resist this demand, and, without the intervention of the committee-man, a number of us went in a body to the cnptain to remonstrate. We produced our tickets and letters, and stated that if such a sum was really exigible, it ought to have been explicitly mentioned before-hand, and this not having been done, and our passage being guarranteed in our tick- ets, that he and not we ought to pay the fee. I added for myself, that I would pay the sum when I reached New York, if I found upon inquiry that I had no other alternative. The captain got into a mighty passion, and swore that he did not care a d — n for either ticket, or letter, or receipt ; that this was a specific charge, and had nothing to do with the passage money ; that ho had to pay for himself and his crew every time he came to New York, wero they only to stop for a few days ; that the new- born babe was not exempted, nor even those M'ho might le on the point of death ; that an officer D -' n::.^ V . .ju r "--- .- — — '^ ^.. w "" g ' l li r 38 THE VOYAGE. M'oulcl come on board for the mone^ before we en- tered the port, which must be in readiness for him. Turning to me, he said angrily, " Sir, you will find there is no mistake with the Americans ; — and, to end this dispute, if any of you refuse to pay when I call over the muster roll, I will put the ship about, and give you another month''s sailing to cure you of your obstinacy."* After this rebuff', we retired to debate the point among ourselves. Most of them seemed inclined to yield ; even Mr Moon, who would be the principal suff'erer, offering no opposition on account of the illness of his daughter. I alone stood resolute in my resistance, in which I was joined by a female passenger. I was hard pressed to yield the point, but in vain ; I had only gold, and would not cliange it for any such purpose. At length the carpet-weaver, who was sick-tired of the voyage, agreed to advance the money for me, and I made no farther opposition.-f* The female passenger alone stood out to the last, and when the money came to be collected, refused point blank to pay, alleging that she had paid £4i for her passage, while others had only paid £2. 10s. The captain was very angry, and said he would detain her luggage for the amount. Seeing he had lost our esteem, about six i'. :m. he sent for the master baker, and gave him a tumbler, bidding him get up a dance at night, as the ship was going steady, and promising to give two * I learned when in New York, that the Corporation charges one dollar for every passenger, old or young, in the steerage, and a dollar and a-halffor every cabin passenger, towards the expenses of the hospital. In this way they collect above ten thousand pounds a-year from shipping and emigrants. Our taptain charged us one and a-quarter dollar each, by which Jie pocketed nearly six pounds sterling. •f- What would our countrymen even in this taxed country think if they were subjected to such an impost in sailing to London or Dublin, or any other port in the kingdom ? a THE VOYAGE. 39 3 we en- for him. will find —and, to ay when the ship f to cure le point clined to principal t of the olute in I female le point, uld not gth the voyage, I made sr alone !ame to lUeging others IS vei'y for the lOut six him a , as the ve two charges teerage, irds the •ove ten Our y which country iling to gallons of rum. The master baker was delighted, and soon forgot the loss of his five shillings. He mustered his forces, and at seven, p. m. the dance was begun, and carried on with great spirit as usual. In distributing the grog, I observed him give one of his companions a bottle to be set aside for their own party, when all was over. August 16. — 8 a. m. Ship going free under a heavy press of canvas, with a stiff breeze, making nine knots an hour ; seamen holystoning the decks ; the master baker and his party playing cards and drinking. Our anchors were unlashed and hung o^er the bows, our cables were hauled up and bent on, our windlass cleared, and the cable stretched along the deck. August 17. — 8 A. M. Ship going fi'ee ; a stiff and a steady breeze ; going nine knots an hour. Our captain never spared either masts, yards, or his can- vass, when weather permitted. He was always attentive to our comfort, and indulged us in every amusement, and had our bedding ordered up from below every week to be aired, and caused the sea- men clean the steerage once a week. He was very attentive to Mr Moon's sick daughter. I noticed some straw along with the usual wreck passing the ship, also an empty flour barrel. Water changed to green, indicating soundings ; ship laid-to, and the deep-sea lead thrown, and soundings found in two hundred fathoms. August 18. — 8 a. m. Wind had veered against us; ship close-hauled, going five knots an hour. The captain offered a bottle of rum to the first who should discover land. The master baker and his party now gave up card-playing, and every one was eagerly employed in looking out for land. The ship was again laid to the wind, the deep-sea lead tried, and soundings found in forty-six fathoms. d2 ;::sSZ3>Ci^ i 40 THE VOYAGE. August 19. — 8 a m. Ship close-hauled, going five knots per hour ; sea roujih ; a stift' breeze ; our raain-top-gallant-Sail Mas split in several pieces ; it was unbent, and another sent up. At twelve noon the lead tried, and soundings found in twenty-one fathoms. At two r. w. land was descried on our starboard and weather bow, and the discoverer, one of the crew, claimed and received the reward of a bottle of rum. Three hearty cheers were given at the sight of the land of liberty and equality. The master baker and his party procured a gallon of rum, and immediately set about giving it a High- land welcome. It turned out to be Long Island, belonging to the State of New York, and separated from Connecticut by a strait which extends its whole length, about 140 miles. We now eased the ship ofF, and sailed along the coast. An American steam- boat passed us. Its construction was new to me ; it had two funnels, one on the star-board and one on the larboard side. The walking-beam was high on deck between the funnels. The vessel was very large, and crowded with passengers. The country liefore us is low-lyin^if, and is not discernible above the horizon at the distance of twelve miles, nor dis- tinctly visible to the naked eye beyond six miles. Having a good telescope, I observed many farm- liouses, all built of wood, and apparently white- washed or painted ; they were not like our farm- steadings in Scotland. The barns are also of wood, and situated at a considerable distance from the houses. I handed my glass to the master baker, and bade him take notice of their being only wooden tenements. " What of that .?'" said he, " see how " beautiful and clean they are; they seem as if built " with marble. I am sure the inmates are happy."" I did not see such a thing as a hedge-row or a stone- wall; the fences consisted of split rails, about six feet in length, as I afterwards learned, and placed ia THE VOYAGE. 41 a zig-zag direction, so that their actual height might amount to about five feet. I cannot say that I was greatly impressed with the beauty of the scenery ; the country seemed barren ; houses few and far be- tween ; trees of stunted growth ; cattle small and lean. We sailed along the larboard shore of the* island for better than four hours ; so I had ample opportunity of examining it. We were going at seven knots an hour, the wind blowing fresh from the land. At sun-down we wore ship, and stood out to sea. August 24. — 8 a. m. Blowing fresh, and oil* the land ; ship close-hauled, making five knots an hour. At 9 A. M. a light-house seen on our larboard boMs which proved to be one of those on Sandy Hook. It seemed as if built with white marble ; but as we neared it, I observed it was of wood, and painted white, like the farm-houses I had seen. We passed several other light-houses, built of the same material. When we got inside of the Hook, on the same curve, we made signals for a pilot, as we saw, from the spray dashing over the reefs of rock which scarcely jutted above the water, that this was a dangerous port to enter.* I pointed out to the master baker some trees thickly laden with apples ; he smacked his lips as if in the act of eating one of them. " Hurra for the land of liberty and equality V he ^ried, and cheered. There were nine vessels working about in the bay, waiting on pilots. It was blowing fresh, and the sea was very rough. I observed several schooner-rigged boats passing La Fayette Battery; they were all num- bered on the sails. One of them came alongside of u?, bringing a smart dandyfied personage, who sprung on board, and went with the captain into the cabin. d3 * A fisherman told me that he once came to anchor, wind blowing fresh, in this bay, and putting the lead over board at the bow, found he had four fathoms, but upon trying it at the stern, he ran out one hundred fathoms without finding bottom. 42 THE VOYAGE. The boat then left us, and \vent to another ship. These boats were fast sailers, and, as we proceeded, sailed round and round us. One of the passengers asked me if the gentleman who had gone into the cabin with the captain was a pilot ; I said, " Surely not; he is more like an Edinburgh writer than a pilot." The captain came out \viih him in a short time. He was quite a dandy. He was dressed in a blue sur- tout cut in the newest fashion, white vest, frilled shirt, and light-grey pantaloons, white silk stock- ings, dress shoes, black silk neckcloth, and a new fa- shionable-shaped hat. He was about five feet six- inches in height, rather slender, dark complexioned, with large whiskers, of which he seemed to be very vain, for he kept constantly twirling them Mith his fingers, at same time displaying a small neat hand, with a ring on each finger, and on some of them two. He now came forward and examined the quantity of cable that was on deck, and gave orders to haul up more ; examined how the anchors were slung at the bows, and how the cable was fastened ; inspec- ted the windlass, — in short, he scrutinized every thing on deck, occasionally casting his eyes aloft, to see if every thing was right there, stroking his whiskers all the while, and displaying his rings. His dress and attitud'?s, and above all his high cheek-bones, made him resemble a baboon. Having satisfied himself on every point, he commenced issu- ing his orders, which he did in good English, with a clear and distinct pronunciation, and in a tout of authority such us I had never heard our captain cmi)loy. He commenced as follows : " Heady about ship;" to which the fh'st mate answered, " All ready, Sir." " Helms-a-lee ! main-top-sail haul 1 bhoets and tacks let go ! Pull away, you lubbers. Let go the starboard braces ; pull the larboard braces ! D — n j-ou for lazy clumsy b rs ! Ease away that starboard main-brace, d — n ye ! take a THE VOYAGE. 43 her ship, roceeded, assengers into the " Surely a a pilot."" ime. He blue Bur- st, frilled Ik stock- a new fii- I feet six ilexioned, be very with his ?at hand, hem two. (juantity 8 to haul slung at ; inspec- ed everj' aloft, to king liis [IS rings!. his high Having ced issu- sh, with a tone ' captain dy about j, *' All il haul I lubbers, larboard s ! Ease ! take a J pull on the larboard brace, d — n ye ! haul down tiie main tack, d — n ye ! haul aft the main sheet, clumsy b rs ! take a pull on the fore-topsail bowling, d — n ye ! What are you standing gaping there at, you lubberly b rs ?'"* She had scarcely time to make any head-way, when he again sung out, " Ready about ship !" and the first mate again answered, " All ready, Sir."" " Holms-a-lee ! tacks and sheets brace round the yards ! What are you about, d — n ye, lazy clumsy b rs .'*''"' While this jar- gon was going on, the sailors, who durst not openly rebel, ga\'e vent to their rage in an under-current of oaths of a similar complimentary nature, the spirit of Avhich may be gathered from the words *' D — d conceited Yankee b r/' pretty frequent- ly repeated. He renewed his orders once more, and in the same precipitate manner as before, scarcely allowing the ship time to make any head-way ere he commenced. Notwithstanding all I have said, he seemed to un- derstand his business thoroughly, and was a really good seaman, " spree and agile,"""* as the Americans have it. As for us passengers, we enjoyed the hub- bub he occasioned very much. Having put the ship about several times, and seen how she answered the helm, and worked in stays, the pilot now began seriously to work her in ; the wind blowing a stiff breeze, and right against us. We passed the arsenal on I^ong Island ; part of it is built of wood, and part of it stone ; sentinels were walking about in a blue uniform faced with red. During the war, a chain was drawn across from Sta- ten Island to this place, to prevent hostile vessels from making an entrance. We passed Fort La Faj^ette ; it is surrounded with water, and is built M'ith stone, and bomb-proof It has ports for two tiers of guns. It has a projecting walk around, co- vered with grass and thistles. The trees were load- ed with fruit on Long Island ; the houses all built of u THE VOYAGE. wood, many of them painted white, and some brown. We were bi'ought to the quarantine station opposite Richmond, Staten Island, and came to anchor, when the pilot left us. At 3 p. m. the wind lulled to nearly a calm. lii'> captain desired us to make ourselves clean, as he expected a visit from the officer appointed to in- spect us in an hour ; and, if we made a respectable appearance, we might be permitted to land in a day or two — if he was not satisfied, he would probably order us into quarantine. This order we promptly obeyed. Much has been written about the lofty hills, the Loacious lawns, the rich verdure, and the lofty trees of America. I saw nothing of these. The hills appeared sandy and barren. The pine and other trees seemed to be of stunted growth. Rich- mond contained a few straggling wood houses, one painted brown, the others white. There were two hospitals built with similar materials, one for the cholera and one for fever. They were three stories high, and about fifty yards long, but very narrow. They stood at a little distance from each other, and connected by a white painted railing, upon the slope of one of those undulating hills so common in Ame- rica. A plot of grass about thirty yards wide lay in front betwixt them and the water. The custom- house was about a quarter of a mile above or north from the cholera hospital. All of the buildings looked neat and substantial at a distance ; but, on a nearer view, the charm was lost, and the poverty of the land made its appearance. The spires of New York were seen in the distance, also a rock that had some resemblance to part of Salisbury-crags, near Edinburgh. This was on the Jersey side of the Hudson. — New York lies very low. About 4 p. M. A six-oared cutter came alongside of us ; and her crew came on board. Three well- dressed persons went into the cabin along with the captain^ and, after they had remained for some time» THE VOYAGE. 45 some brown, tion opposite nchor, when led to nearly ves clean, as ointed to in- respectable md in a day lid probably ve promptly Lit the lofty ire, and the ig of these, 'he pine and Fth. Rich- houses, one re were two one for the ;hree stories ery narrow. i other, and )n the slope on in Ame- h wide lay 'he custom- ve or north e buildings e ; but, on the poverty e spires of ilso a rock bury -crags, 'sey side of e alongside rhree well- ^ with the some time^ J riuted bills were distributed among us, detailing the quarantine regulations, any infringement of M'liich would be punished M'ith a fine or imprison- ?ment. One of the men came out of the cabin, hav- ing a bag containing the hospital-money, formerly spoken of, in his hand, and, jumping into the boat, immediately shoved off. The inspector noM' came forward, and stared at us as if he meant to purchase us as slaves. He was an elderly man, with a broad- brimmed Mhite straw-hat and band of black ribbon. He had a black patch under his right eye, his com- j>lexion ruddy, apparently more from the effects of drinking than constitutionally. His shirt was snow ■white, the frill sticking out prominently far down the breast. The rest of his dress was in the same modish fashion. This important personage first de- sired the quarantine hnvs to be read aloud. He then ordered us all to bi; assembled on deck, having prc- A'iously declined the captain''s offer to call over the muster-roll. AVc \vere apprehensive he would order us into quarantine if he discovered the illness of Mr Moon''s daughter, who was still in a very hope- less state. Her mother had pit on two gowns, that she might first pass muster on her own account, and then, throwing off' the upper one, might personate her daughter, which was accordingly done, and, the daughter having been removed to a concealed situa- tion, the deception was not discovered. The scrutiny we underwent was similar in all respects to that pre- A'iously described Avhen the muster-roll was called, the inspector and his assistants acting the part of shepherds'* dogs, and the passengers huddled together like so many sheep. Some of the children, disliking the restraint, began to break loose from their con- finement, and to run up and down in confusion, which put the inspector in a mighty passion ; and he threatened to order us all into quarantine if the laws of the United. States were not more properly iim» 4(5 THE VOYAGE. respected. He seemed to be about to put his threats into execution, when the captain came forward, and liaving spoken to him in a soothincf manner, the great man (Condescended to retract his resohition, but not until he had given us a severe reprimand for paying ho little attention to his orders. His re- port would have been sufficient, he said, to have de- tained the ship some weeks in quarantine. Hefore he departed, he pronounced an eulogium on our re- spectable appearance, and said he was glad to see so many emigrating to this land of liberty and equality ; that we ought to register our names as soon as pos- sible ; and that, having turned our backs on our own country, he hoped we would become useful citizens of the United States. " But," he concluded, " you *' will require to get all your foul clothes washed, " else you will not bo permitted to take them on " shore. The captain will furnish you M'ith plenty '* of water, and you may commence now. I will " send an officer on board on Monday to inspect " your clothes ; and those that are dirty will be taken " to the quarantine station, and washed at the owners' " expense." The captain reminded him that to-mor- row was Sunday, and that, therefore, the time he had allowed us for purification was too short. " Oh," said he, " there are no puritanical Sundays in the " United States of America ; it is a free country.— " Now," turning to us, remember to have your clothes " cleaned, else you know the consequences ;" saying which, he made us a graceful bow, and went to the gangway, where he made a pause, and said he would send a boat alongside of us to-morrow with fresh pro- visions. He then descended the ship'*s side >vith an air of great importance. The master-baker seemed a little crest-fallen with the samples of American con- sequence he had already seen ; but he and his party consoled themselves for all this with a few bottles of rum. The word was now, " All hands wash clothes, i a THE VOYAGE. ♦7 his threats rward, and annor, tlu» resolution, reprimand . His re- ;o have de- e. Uefore on our re- el to 8ee so I equality ; on as pos- )n our own 111 citizens ded, " you 38 washed, B them on ith plenty V. I will to inspect 1 be taken le owners'* I at to-mor- time he •t. "Oh," lys in the ountry. — )ur clothes ;" saying ent to the he would fresh pro- 'ith an air seemed a rican con- his party bottles of h clothes, " a-hoy !" Old clothes, shoes, and hats, were chucked overboard. Ai((just 25. — All hands busy washing and scrub- bing ; some had been employed at it all night. Gaunt- lets were hoisted iip to the yard-arms, from the bow- sprit to the taffrail. At day break these clothes lines were filled full, and hoisted up. The wind ^vas blowing fresh ; and as landsmen do not know the proper liitch to stop on clothes, the consequence was that many blankets and shirts Mere torn, and some blown overboard. Many, therefore, had to employ seamen to attach the clothes in a secure manner, and to give them rum for their trouble ; so that, long before night-fall, most of the seamen as well as the passengers were more than half-seas-over. Two other emigrant-ships lying in our vicinity ex- hibited the same bustle as our own ; and from sun- rise to sun-down the spectacle of clothes fluttering in the breeze was to be seen on all sides. This was a glorious day for the master-baker, who took a most active charge of every thing, and freely be- stowed his counsel wherever he conceived it neces- sary. All of us were filled with delight at the near approach of the period when we should be released from restraint, and be permitted to touch that happy shore where freedom reigns uncontrolled, and man is on a level with all his species. The boat with provisions, which the inspector promised, never came; but we were too busy to pay much heed to this. All were actively employed scrubbing — what need of eating to day ? a few short hours, and we shall be in elysium. A battle-royal took place among the seamen, one of whom struck the first mate. The captain com- ing on board when the mutiny was at its height, ordered the delinquents into the forecastle. One of them refused go> captt did not do so quietly, he would put him in irons 48 THE VOYAGE. The sailor swore hideously, and, brandishing a knif(», swore he would run it through the body of the first man who should attempt to lay hands upon him. Finding him quite intractable, the captain sent for a boat, and had him conveyed on shore, in order to his being committed to prison. Several steam-boats, crowded with well-dressed passengers, passed us this day on their way to New York. Augifst 26. — Washing still continued ; morning cold and wet ; the clothes-lines completely occupied. 7 A. M. the chaff-beds and straw were ordered to be emptied, and their contents thrown overboard. The captain went to New York to hire a steam- boat for the purpose of bringing us up the river, as the ship was to lie here for some days. The first mate offered me the jolly-boat to go on sliore, in or- der that I might visit Staten Island and the hospi- tals, if I chose to make up a party for that purpose ; at the same time stating that we must on no account be later in returning than 2 o'clock. This offer wa embraced with alacrity, and rowed towards tls;^ island, landing at Richmond. This is a miserable sandy-looking straggling village, no two houses being joined together, though it has a respectable-like ap- pearance from the river. There is no pavement on the streets, nothing but a loose gravelly bottom, ap- parently the bed of what had once been a river. It seems to have no trade except that derived from emigrants occasionally lodging in the town. Ob- serving in a window a ticket with the words " Lon- don porter," I proposed to go in and take a draught of Old England ; and we accordingly got four bot- tles of porter, (at the moderate charge of two shil- lings and sixpence British for each bottle), and a little brandy. By permission of the inspector I was allo\^'ed to examine the hospitals, which were kept remarkably clean — there were very few pa- tients. Advancing a little way into the interior, ) ...... I THE VOYAGE. 49 * we observed numerous trees covered with fruit ; th(i firs or pine-trees were small and stunted ; the soil sandy and gravelly ; no black or vegetable earth. ' I went into a farm-house, the access to which w;h blocked up by a morass which lay in front, but which I avoided by climbing over a worm-fence. Some hogs were feeding near at hand, with wooden frames on their necks to prevent their getting through the fence. The family were at dinner when I en- tered. I apologized for my intrusion, stating that I had just arrived from Scotland, and had come on shore to look at the country. The lady of the house, rising from table, asked me if I was from Edin- burgh, to which I replied in the affirmative. " And from the Candlemaker-row .?'' " I once had a shop there."*"' " I knew it," said she, " for I have been often in it. Pray, what has brought you here ?" I satisfied her curiosity on this head as I have al- ready done that of the Reader. Talking of Stu- art's Three Years, of which an American edition was lying on the table, she said, " So th's gen- tleman has left all the good things he has de- scribed ! Alas, he has flattered hundreds to their ruin ; and many are the murmurs already breath- ed out against him. It was the reading such books as his that induced us to leave our native vil- lage of Loanhead, and come to settle here ; but if we could only get the miserable land we purchased disposed of, we should soon bid it adieu, for we have been all but ruined." I asked her for a draught of milk, which she presented to me, remarking at the same time that it was not plentiful. I took the opportunity of asking whether her cows yielded as much milk as those at Loanhead. She sighed, and answered in the negative. Did her iowU lay as many eggs ? No. " Now," said she, " take my advice, and keep as much money as >vill defray your E I 'I \i 50 THE VOYAGE. expences home, for depend upon it you will not re- main long here of your own free will.""* I had got some information here with a vengeance. Before leaving the island, I filled two pitchers with water at a pump-well ; it was hard and brack- ish, but being fresh, I knew it would be a treat to our people in the ship. I now got my party collec- ted together, and returned on board. During my absence, all our luggage had been hoisted on deck, and the passengers were anxiously waiting the arri- val of the steam-boat. The carpenters had demo- lished all our births below, so that it was plain we would not be permitted to remain another night in the ship. I observed little mirth among the passen- gers ; even the master baker was quiet. At 3 p. M. a lighter, instead of the steam-boat we expected, came alongside to receive us, and our ef- fects were hastily put on board of her. It was now every man mind himself; friendship was out of the question. Little attention was paid how our lug- gage was stowed ; and I believe one would have met with little sympathy had he tumbled overboard. When we all got in, we had scarcely room to sit or stand, being packed together as closely as our lug- gage. So heavily laden was the lighter, that her gunwales almost reached the water's edge ; and the wind being against us, we had to tack four times, the spray breaking over us every time we put about. The boom swaying round knocked several of our hats overboard ; one only was caught with a boat-hook, the rest floated down the stream and were lost. At about half-past five we arrived at the custom- house wharf on Staten Island. Here we had to stand * This lady afterwards sent one of her relations to my shop in Edinburgh, to learn if I had returned home, and what I thought of all the fine things I had seen in America. This person told me that the family were now on their way back, as they had got their land sold. ■if THE VOYAGE. 51 il not re- '. had got pitchers id brack- i treat to by collec- iring my on deck, the arri- id demo- plain we night in le passen- i-boat we d our ef- was now mt of the our hi^- ild have erboard. to sit or our hig- that her and the r times, we put several t with a nd were under a broiling sun, each man opposite his own travel- ling trunk, the lid of which was kept open, awaiting the examination of the custom-house officers. They were not long in performing this duty ; indeed they scarcely removed any of our articles, and no seizures Averemade.* Perceiving our exhausted situation, they sent a person to bring us water ; and I believe he came and returned with a fresh supply twenty times before we were all satisfied, though the water was any thing but tempting. Our travelling articles being again stowed on board the lighter, at sun-down we made sail for New York. The wind chopt round right a-head of us ; we had to beat, but the tide was with us ; the spray broke incessantly over us, and the rain began to descend. It was half-past ten be- fore we arrived at the quay. Here we were landed in the dark, the rain pouring upon us, and our lug- ^"^^e ptrewed all around. The shops, if there were ai' it hand, were all shut, and we had no one to o re ;^ as where to proceed. We had therefore no oitner alternative tljan to pass the night ijriiere we \vere in the open air. As the spray was occasionally dashing over the wharf, I constructed a barricade of the trunks belonging to myself and two fellow-pas- sengers, man and wife, whose births had been next my own, over which I put some deals which were lying on the wharf. Under the lee of this shed we placed the female passenger, who was ill of a fever ; and having procured a pitcher, I proceeded into the town in search of water, and some wine for the e2 custom- to stand my shop Id what I lea. This Ivay back, • We had reason to be satisfied with the treatment we ex- perienced from the officers here, for I am told that at New York they are often very troublesome. A gentleman of my acquaintance, who landed shortly after me, had the contents of his trunks minutely turned over ; and for a double barrelled gun, which cost £10 in Edinburgh, he was charged eight and a half dollars of duty, and one-half dollar of custom-house fees, together £2. Os. Gd. sterling. mmmmmw I i ! ' II 52 THE VOYAGE. woman. This I pi^'ocured from a shop which I found >till open, together \vith a bottle of brandy, and some bread and cheese. ISIyriads of rats kept squeak- ing and frisking about and over us all night ; one of them captured a piece of cheese from oft' my knee while I was at Bupper. Here then were we, one hundred and sixteen fcouls, landed with our luggage in a wet, cold, and stormy iuight, on a wooden quay in New York, Avhere we had to bivouack under the canopy of hea- ven: This was our first sample of American hospi- tality, freedom, and liberty. No person came near us to give us any instructions ; indeed we got a cold reception — ^yet we had each paid five shillings as hospital money, and God knows such a night as this was sufficient to have fitted one and all of us for the benefits of that institution. In fact two of our party only survived a few days. Our captain had taken a dexterous method to get quit of us. I believe that \ry the British law emigrants are allowed to remain on board forty-eight hours after the ship arrives, to give them an opportunity of providing themselves Vvith lodgings ; but we were not in Britain — we were in America, the land of liberty, where those who have power can do as they like with their inferiors, whether they be their own countrymen or not. 53 CHAP. II. 1 NEW YORK, AND ITS VICINITY. The rain was still falling, not in showers, but abso- lutely in torrents, the wind blowing a stiff north- wester, the spray breaking over the quay, a^ there- by wetting with salt water us who were already drenched with rain. But this was really an ad- vantage to us, for a person is not so apt to catch cold by being wet with salt water as with fresh. After having recruited ourselves by eating bread iftnd cheese and drinking some spirits and water, which latter was very brackish, despairing of getting any assistance till next morning, we creeped uuder the lee of our barricade of chests and trunks, and en- deavoured to compose ourselves to rest, for to sleep was out of the question. Though neither Old Couh- trymen nor Americans came to visit us, we had myriads of the American rats squeaking and frisking over us, as if sporting at our wretchedness ; and they took the usual license practised towards stran- gers, by robbing us of the remains of our jBupper. We longed much for day light, which seemed to tarry longer than usual. About 3 a. m. the rain ceased, and the >vind lulled considerably. At length day broke, and objects soon became visible. We found that we had been put ashore at the south end of Washington street, near the Battery, which is built of stone — is bomb-proof — and is surrounded with water. The houses in Washington street, as far as I could see, were composed of wood ; they were neither white-washed nor painted on the outside as those I had seen on Staten and Long-Islands, but E 3 "T 54 NEW YORK, AND liad a dirty taiid miserable looking appearance. The roofs of the houses were covered with thin pieces of sawed wood called shingles, shaped like slates, and generally curled up in the edges by the heat of the sun, thereby admitting the rain through the roof into the house. The water was also conducted by tin or wooden spouts into a tank on the ground, and carefully preserved to wash M'ith. Almost every object presented signs of poverty, and I could see none of *the beauty depicted by some of our travel- lers. Having observed the master-baker rising from his lair, I made up to him with a bottle of rum, and offered him a glass of it ; he was shaking the ^vater from his clothes, and his teeth M'ere chattering. I pointed out to him the wooden houses, which ap- peared so miserable in comparison with those of Edinburgh or Glasgow, and said that, however rich the country might turn out to be, >ve must own that ■we had good reason to be disappointed with the cold reception we had got here. I drank to him, and wished him much joy of the land of liberty and equality. He however did not seem inclined either for conversation or a joke, but still continued shak- ing his wet and dirty clothes ; he was quite crest- fallen, and, as his teeth were still chattering, I gave him another glass, and left him. I requested the family who M'^ere next to me to look after my luggage while I went into the town and en- quired for a furnished room, M'hich they promised to do. On going along the quay, I observed many holes in it large enough to allow a person, or even a chest, to fall through ; and as there were no lamps on the quay, I vjondered that no accident had befallen some of us on the previous night. One of these chasms was near where I bivouacked. I passed two other encampments of emigrants in Washington street ; some of them M'ere lying huddled together i ITS VICINITY. 55 ). The pieces of ites, and heat of the roof icted by jnd, and St every ould see ir travel- from his um, and he water jring. I 'hich ap- those of '^ever rich own tliat with the [ to him, erty and led either led shak- te crest- , I gave le to look n and en- omised to ed many or even a lamps on befallen of these assed two ashingtou together under carts, some within the recesses of doors, and some on the bare pavement. I enquired at a good looking elderly woman who was lying on the pave- ment — her head bare, and her long grey hair flut- tering in the breeze — how long it was since she landed ; and she answered in German that it was six nights, and that her party had lain all that time on the streets. I gave her sixpence and left her, thinking within myself that when groups of poor wretches are thus obliged to lie on the streets, not having so much m^ as to procure a bed, it is to- lerable eviden. that >re must be begj ■. in Ame- rica, but that no great sympathy Avill be extended towards them. I had not proceeded much further, Avhen I observed a painted board prohibiting begr ging; this was conclusive . that my surmises were correct, and that there were beggars, though our travellers did not see them. A fire-engine passed me drawn by a number of men, some of whom carried speaking-trumpets, and roared through them most hideously. I had heard a bell ringing a short time before, but was not aware that it was the fire bell. The signs above the different shop-doors, as I passed along, had a novel effect. " Bakery," denoting a ba- ker's shop ; " Dry Goods Store,"" for a haberdasher ; *' Mechanics'* Retreat," a common tavern, were the usual terms employed. The word store is invariably used for shop. I proceeded along Broadway, the principal street in New York, till I came to the City Hall, which is situated in a small enclosure called The Park, on the east side of Broadway ; still I saw nothing striking or beautiful. Most of the houses ■\rere of wood, consisting of sawed deals placed over one another exactly like masons'" sheds in Scotland ; and the rest were of brick. They appeared to be built according to no regular plan, but were of dif- ferent heights and shapes, and theii* appearance >vas . \. 'i; 1 J IMh 1 ' 1 ^H|l ^ 1 '.(! I \l 56 NEW YORK, AND frequently destroyed by paltry M'ooden erections. I however passed a large church built with black gra- nite, as was likewise the City Hall, but of a lighter colour. The pavoMent was composed partly of brick and partly of flag-stones, but in considerable dis- repair. A number of poles were placed at the outside of the pavement, to which the storekeepers stretch awnings fastened to nails above tlieir shop-windows, to protect their goods, "rom the sun. At half-past 4 A. M. the people began to stir ; and at 5 I met some females dressed generally like my own country- women, but their bonnets and boots were different. The former, which is called a galash, stood high upon their head, and was hooped to keep it up, some- thing like the top of a covered gig, and projected far forward, but gradually narrowed towards the front, which was exceedingly small, the lady's face being hardly visible ; it seemed to be made of green silk or cotton, and is said to be very comfortable in this warm climate. The latter were very clumsy, and laced with leather-laces. The newsmen were running about with newspapers, some of which they stuck to the bell-pulls, some a the knockers, and some on the windows, withou. waiting till their summons was answered. Numbers of pigs were strolling about in every direction; but I observed no_other scaven- gers. Not being able to find a lodging-house, I went into a boarding-house, of which there were a great many. The lower part of it was used as a tavern, in which a number of people were already assembled. I asked the bar-keeper if he could let me have a pri- vate room, as I felt much exhausted and fatigued from the exposure I had been subjected to all night, at the same time letting him know the particulars of my situation. The man stared at me in a very rude manner, and as he continued doing so for a length of time, I began to be apprehensive, from the disorder ITS TCINITY. 57 of my dress, that he might be doubting my ability to pay for what I asked. I therefore offered him a paper dolhir-bill, \vhich he took, and handed to a per- son standincc at the bar to examine if it were genuine, and then tokl me he had no private room, but that I might take a seat in the bar-room. I then asked for a glass of rum and water, and he placed a small tum- bler before me, M'hich he filled about one-third ^vith rum, without measuring it, and then a jug of water, telling me at the same time that he took in no lodgers ; and that his terms for boarders were three dollars a week, payable in advance. I stated that, as I did not know how long I might remain, I Avould prefer paying him by the day ; but he an- swered sulkily that he had already told me his terms, giving me at the same time another stare. As he appeared to be in no hurry to give me change of my dollar-bill, I was under the necessity of ask- ing him for it, M'hen he replied that he had already given it to me. This I denied, and at the same time jisked the price of the rum. He said, threepence. " Then, Sir," said I, " I have not a coin upon my person, and I request that you will, for your own satisfaction, search my pockets." At this he got into a mighty rage, calling me a swindler and im- postor, and swearing at me bitterly — he had already given me the money, and did not care what I had done with it. I said that I had not stirred from the bar, and appealed to the person to whom my dollar-bill had been handed for examination, and who had been standing all the time beside me, whether he saw me get my change ; he said that I did not get it. Another person now came forward and said that he had been observing me the whole time, and was satisfied I did not get back my change. The bar-keeper then gave me the balance, saying coolly that it was a mistake. I now went in search of another boarding-house. i 58 NEW YORK, AND where I hoped to find a more civil, if not a more honest landlord, and at last succeeded in my object. I then returned to the quay, which I reached about half-past 8. Most of my shipmates were gone, and also the family who promised to take charge of my luggage, which hr d also disappeared. Observing a cart with luggage driving along the quay, I ran up to it, and saw my property thereon. I asked the driver where he was goiig with it ? " To a place of safety,'' replied he, giving me at the same time a fixed stare. " And who desired you to do so .''" said I. A lame man, who had just come up to us, replied that he had charge of the quay, and that, seeing no person looking after the luggage, he had ordered it to be conveyed to a place of safety, as he expected more emigrants immediately, and the quay must be cleared. I asked where this place of safety was ? The driver replied, " Follow me and you will see ;" and applied the lash smartly to his horse. I immediately seized hold of the bridle, and told the driver that if he attempted to move till I got off my luggage, I would run him through with my umbrella. I then ordered the person who said he had charge of the quay to remove my luggage, or I would spit him ; and, suiting the action to the word, I advanced towards him with my umbrella charged. Seeing my determi- nation, he staggered backwards a few paces, and fell down, managing nevertheless to steer clear of the holes, or the yet more formidable sides of the quay. He now pretended to be drunk ; and at this moment a third person came up, and assured me the whole was a mere frolic, for the drunk man had no charge of the quay, and also desired me to point out my property, which he directed the carman to give up to me. I told them I believed they were all three a parcel of swindlers, and if I had time I would report them to the police. The car was then driven off with the remainder of the luggage, some ^ I ot hd I ITS VICINITY. 59 of which, I am certain, never reached the proper owners. I gave my trunks in charge to an Irish labourer, M'ho was passing, and M'hom I accompa- nied to my lodgings. Having told my landlord what had happened, he said it was fortunate for me that I had arrived in time, and was so firm with the men, otherwise I would never have discovered the place oi safety which they had spoken of; — that gangs of these swindlers are constantly prowling about the ships which arrive with emigrants, and also go with, and wait the arrival of, steam and canal-boats, in all parts of the country ; if they observe any thing neglected, they carry it off " slick,"* and if detec- ted, coolly tell you it is a mistake. * This is an Amerii an phrase meaning " clever ;" but it sometin.es means " insolence," for they oilen say " Give me no slick." — As several of these phrases occur throughout the journal, it may not be improper, for the information of the reader, to state here an explanation of a few of them : " Get- ting along" is continually in their mouths, and is used in dif- ferent meanings. For instance, we say, " How do ye do ?'* A Yankee would say, " How are you getting along ?" It also means " succeeding in business." — *' Clear out" is used when a person runs away privately from his creditors, Scottice, " a moon-licht flittin'." We say such a person has " run away ;" a Yankee says, " He has cleared out." It is also used when a person simply leaves one place for another. — '• Going ahead'* is used for our term " succeeding in buwness." — The word " expect" is indiscriminately used for our words " believe," " suppose," " think," and " expect," as we use it. — " That is a fact," and " no mistake," are continually used to give effect to an assertion. A Yankee, for instance, says, " He is a smart fellow, and that's a fact," or, •' and no mistake." — In place of our " Yes" and " No," in answer to a question, they say, " I guess it is," or, " I guess not." — The word " fix" is a very favourite expression, and is used in very different mean- ings. They say, " Fix the fire good," meaning, " Put on a good fire." A Yankee does not ask his tailor to mend his coat lor him, but to " fix it." — To " go the whole hog" means to " go quite through with an undertaking." — " I calculate upon doing so" is used by a Yankee, while we say " I intend to do so." — A thing is not said to have a good taste or smell, but that " it tastes good." The way in which these terms are used by the Americans 60 \EW YORK, AND I knew that a nunibor of my former acquaintances Avere settled in New York, most of M'hom had left their own country not for building churches. After puttiru]^ my person in some order, I called upon several of these ; they all expressed astonishment at seeing me, and asked my motives for coming to America, which I readily told them. They, how- ever, invariably fell to abusing their own country, and spoke with the greatest ill-will towards it ; M'hih' their anxiety to laud every thing American was ef books ighter, I well fin- or plant, lavs the sufficient is a case he coun- he walls ardening 3 well as barrels of k of the M'ith a were all )f at his stood a ave been ir C and b, accor- )te some )it was a at num- tice was ancealed uld take Y detect- commit- rith the a green- Itree, be- g ; and itaining rixt the of flowers, and in a corner a cistern where a supply of gold fish is kept for sale ; a small jet of water runs continually into the cistern, and another runs out. A board is also put up prominently, forbidding any person from touching or stealing the fish: I thought thieving surely must be prevalent, when such extra precautions were rendered necessarJ^ A man was, indeed, a short time after this, caught in the act of stealing the fish. I enquired what became of the fish during winter, and was told that the water was generally for several months during that season frozen into a solid block of ice, and that the fish looked more beautiful when frozen in than they now did ; but fewer died with the winter's cold than the sum- mer''s heat. I cannot say much for Lawrie's knowledge or con- islstency, but he is certainly possessed of a great deal of shrewdness, ingenuity, and taste. He is, however, a perfect hater of the Old Country ; and no one that yhen I observed 19 NEW YORK, AND every one starinj[^ rudoly at me, I returned it ; but where every one stares, as if privileged, it is not easy to distinf^uish the most impertinent. The com- pany appeared however to show very little courtesy to strangers. Dinner was soon on the table ; and my companions got a better object to stare at than me. There was plenty provided, and the dishes no sooner appeared than a general attack commenced. Nothing M'as to be heard but knives rattling on the plates — no speaking or staring now, but every one helping himself to what he liked best, without minding his neighbour ; and some of them stretched over three persons to get at a favourite dish. They ate as if they were a retreating army making a hasty meal while the enemy were in hot pursuit, and very near up with them. I was astonished at the scene, and almost forgot to mind myself. I asked a person to help me from a dish which stood before him ; he said nothing, but surveyed me minutely, keeping his grinders going all the time, and instead of helping me, very coolly replenished his own plate, and com- menced again. I now took the hint ; and as the good things were rapidly disappearing, I fell to every dish that was within my reach. In a short time individuals severally started up, flung back their chairs, and " cleared out,"" as if by magic ; and when they were all gone, the busy waiters soon cleared the table, and replenished it for a new com- pany, who soon commenced their operations. Being still intent upon endeavouring to discover the real value of labour, I walked into a boot and shoemaker's store, and asked the price of his boots and shoes. He gave me the fencing, master's stare, but I was now getting accustomed to this treatment. I said I did not mean to purchase ; but having lately come to America, I had tried several plans to get at the real value of labour, and had only succeeded in a very few instances. He said, " I sell a paii- of shoes, ITS VI CI MTV. 73 d it; but , it is not The com- B courtesy ; and my ; than mi', no sooner Nothing 3 plates — e helping inding his ver three ate as if nsty meal very near cene, and person to him ; he Beping his helping and com- id as the I fell to n a short ing back igic; and ters soon lew com- s. discover boot and his boots r's stare, 'eatment. ng lately to get at Deeded in of shoes, Kucii as you looked at, for 12s. currency, or Gs. 6d. sterling ; and you can purchase a bettor pair in Mr Cameron's, Candlemaker-ro\v, Edinburgh, for the same price." I now stared at him. lie said he thought ho knew me ; and after tolling my name, we entered into a conversation regarding the merits of the two countries, and the rate of Miigos paid to boot and shoemakers. He said they were upon the M'hole better paid at home than here • for farmers, masons, painters, and labourers, were all shoemakers during winter. I said, he at least had thriven, if I might judge from the immense stock in his store. *' I have just now,"" said he, " upwards of 40,000 pairs of shoe^', and 20,000 pairs of boots ; this would be too large a stock for Edinburgh, but I deal chiefly in exportation : Yet I would fain leave this wretch- ed wicked place." He then gave me an account of the morals in New York much worse than any I had yet heard, and said that those travellers, skip- j)ers, and hirelings, who have so lauded America, had much to answer for. Their lies make people at home discontented with their condition, and have induced many a man to emigrate, to the ruiu of his purse and his morals. If an Old Country- man commence business here before he learns the trickery and roguery practised, he is sure to be fleeced ; and it has been always observed, that those M'ho bring out money are soon bankrupt — try it again after having learned knavery in self-defence, and gipnerally " get along," as they say. I f.aid I took it amiss to be stared at so particular- ly wherever I went. I was always scrutinized as if I were a thief or a swindler, and every body stared as if they were Bow-street or police-officers. He said he took it amiss himself M'hen he came here, but had now got accustomed to it ; " and you see," said he, " that I can stare as well as a regular Yankee." G i* NEW YORK, AND I said, " You appear to me to be likr .i nation of fencing-masters.*' ** You are rij;ht there,"" he said ; *' your bankrupts and sM'indlers M'ho come here soon find that they are amon^ their superiors in knavery. Mr Stuart, in his Three Years, did not tell that he was bitten by them. If he had written his book from dis- interested motives, he Mould, after telling his countrj'- men of all the good things in America, at least have cautioned them against lending money, or entering unadvisedly into any speculation, whereby they might come off no better perhaps than he had done. But he knew what would take with the people at home, and he served them accordingly ; he flatters their imaginations, and gives them a luminous ac- count, taken after a canvass-back-duck dinner, with- out duly considering what might be the consequences i)f his rash assertions."" — I complained to him of the bitter and illiberal way which most Old Country- men spoke of their country. He said, " These are chiefly the unfortunate individuals M'ho dare not re- turn ; and they console themselves in this way for their banishment — they illustrate the fable of the fox and the grapes. But you will not hear an honest man abuse his country unreasonably ; and I do not think you will remain long here, and I hope ere long to be back myself." He bade me look at Hud- son street, and I would there find men keeping ta^^erns and whisky stores who were bankers, writers, and first-rate merchants at home. I accordingly did so, and found it exactly as he said. - I now went to a much talked of street called the Bowery, which however did not strike me as being vny thing remarkable. In front of one of the houses I observed a number of men engaged in something I did not understand, but on enquiry was infonned that they were about to remove the house. I was glad to have thus an opportunity of seeing this eighth wonder of the world— a house " clearing out," ITS VICIN'ITV. thounfli ill this instance only a frame one of a single storey hij(h with a garret, and not much larger than one of Wombwell's wild-beast caravans. The up- rights were morticed into strong beams, tiie lower of which rested upon four blocks of stone. Trunks of trees were laid beneath the house in order to act as rollers, and planks placed below and above them. The house was now wedged up till it was raised from its four supports, Avhich were then removed, and the house lowered down upon the planks. Four steers were then yoked in pairs, and strong ropes fastened to their chains, and tied to the house, which was then pulled to its new situation. This surely was a common occurrence, for a man was looking out of the window smoking a cigar all the time ; and there were very few on-lookers. Indeed I felt much disappointed at the insignificance of the opera- tion. Almost opposite to where the removal took place, I observed the following singular sign, ** Pray and Play, sashmakers." I now went to an old book-stand, and began to examine the books, but had not looked at many when the proprietor said to me in a peculiar sharp manner, " Don't handle my books in that way ; I guess you are no buyer. Many persons come here to look at my books, and whenever they find an opportunity, put them in their pockets, and cleai' out. Ask what you want, and I will get it for you." I said to him that he was a very rude bookseller, — that I myself belonged to the same profession in Scotland, and would not for the value of a book affront a stranger as he had done me. After this he gave me toleration to look at them, but still anxious<- ly watched me. I afterwards went into a bookseller's store, and looked at a number of Colburn's novels, which were back-titled at double the prices asked. I requested G2 f \n tl 76 NEW YORK, AND the store-keeper, who M'as hime, und had a crutch, to tell me the trade-price. He eyed me veiy krtovv- ingly, and said, " I guess you are not a book- seller, but an impostor from the Old Country, no mistake. I expect the Americans arc M'ide awake, and not to be done by the like of you.'*'' I replied, " You insolent rascal, wore you not a cripple and in your own shop, I would taive the Yankee conceit out of you.'"' There were two gentlemen in the store at the time ; and as I began to regret having got into a passion, I immediately added, " I thank you. Sir, for this sample of American civility,'" and walked away. I went into several other booksellers' stores, and occasionally got civil treatment ; yet even with the best of them there was a disagreeable stiffness and dryness of manner that is quite unknown to an Edin- burgh bookseller. The prices asked were high. On my return home, i met the fire-engines going to work, and joined the throng ; but I observed few of the citizens take any notice of the proces- sion. We ran nearly a mile, the firemen roaring lustily all the time through speaking trumpets, till we reached the fire, M'hicih was a very grand one. Several wooden and brick houses were soon burnt to the gi'ound, and most of the furniture within them consumed. The engines were smaller than our Edinburgh ones ; but the firemen were very active, and deserved great praise. An ingenious method is adopted in New York to indicate the direction of a burning. A lanthorn is fastened to one end, and two to the other, of a yard, which is then hoisted to the top of a mast placed on the roof of a house situated nearly in front of the City-hall, being almost the centre of the city ; and the two Ian thorns poin- ted towards the fire. Several fires occur every night, and are not only very alarming, but render property insecure. It is said, however, that few happen from a( o ITS VIOINITV. 77 accident ; but that the greater number are the work of incendiaries. Labourers and bricklayers are much blamed for this v/icked practice, in order to create work, which is often very scarce. The poor blacks too occasionally get the blame ; but indeed they would require to have pretty broad shoulders to bear the load of every thing that is laid to their charge. During the night I was twice awaked by the fire- bell and the noise of the firemen, but was too weary to get up. It was, however, no easy matter to fall asleep again ; for besides my old enemies the bugs and fleas, I now discovered a new one called a cock- roach, one of which I caught and slew, but the smell was offensive ; and though very numerous, I therefore touched no more of them. Indeed the water pitchers required to be carefully covered to keep out these vermin. Next forenoon I went to a court called The Ses- sions, where criminal cases were tried. It formed a part of the City-hall, and in the other divisions of the building were the civil courts, police-office, jail, &c. On entering the court-room, I observed the seats on the right hand were well filled, and in a small enclosure at the back of the room sat a num- ber of blacks ; but on the left there were only a few ladies, and I sat down beside them. They, how- ever, withdrew themselves from me as if I was a serpent ; and on turning round t preceived the eyes of the whole assembly directed towards me. I was quite dumfoundered, and wondered what crime I had committed in this free country to merit such treatment. The judge dispatched an officer towards me, and I really began to think he was going to make me the criminal. He came up to me and said, ** You have committed a gross breach of decorum in sitting beside the ladies, and must instantly clear out- What is your business here ?^' I replied that I was a sti'anger, and only came out of curiosity— G3 IK: 1,1 78 NEW YORK, AND that I was ignorant of their customs, but would do what he desired me. He then ordered me to a seat beside the gentlemen. The court-room was pretty long but not so broad ; and nearly in the middle, betwixt the head and foot, ran a strong wooden rail, thereby forming the court into two divisions, the former for the lawyers, jury, criminals, &c. and the latter for the public. At the top of the room was a high bench, at which sat three judges without wigs or gowns, and at each corner below M'ere two desks something like our precentors'*, one on the left for male and the other for female criminals. The first case called Mas that of a person accused of stealing a steer. He was a good looking man, at least six feet high, and was put into the left hand box, which being a good deal raised and exposed to the view of the whole court, he, while sitting in it, reminded me very much of a coach-driver on his seat. He was dressed in a blue jacket and can- vass trowsers, and his brogue proved that he was an Irishman ; he seemed to be quite composed in his elevated situation. The names of forty-five jurymen were now called over, and fiftt'en drawn by ballot, to whom the oath dejideli administra- tione was administered, and they kissed a book containing the. American Statutes — not the Bible, as is done in Scotland. The judge asked the pri- "'soner if he liad^TTiTy'ol^ction to the jurymen. He said he had none ; and the counsel for the people then read over the indictment, and the judge asked, " Guilty or not guilty."' " Not guilty,"" replied the Irishman. Witnesses for the prosecutor M^ere now brought in, and the steer identified. The judge then asked the prisoner if he had any defence to state, and he replied thus : " Your worship, I came to this country, bad luck to it, expecting to gain something, but I have lost all that I brought wid me. 1 was going about the country seeking employ- i i I I m( se w Ai Wi the ITS VICINITY. 79 ment ; but fait I could find none. Says I to my- self, I3arney, you have wandered the vrrong way when you left Ould Ireland for the sandy desarts of America, bad luck to it. Well, I left Waterford (a little above Albany) to come here to get a ship, and in coming along met this steer. Says I to him, Fait are you too in want of a masther ? but the cra- thur said nothin\ Says I, I meant boss, and no offence ; and he nodded consent. Well, I was in want of a travelling companion ; but there is no companionship in this couuthry, bad luck to it and theni that wrote to me to come. I wish I were again at Waterford.'" — " At Waterford above Al- bany ?" suid the judge. " No, in my own dear Waterford in Ould Ireland. — Says I to the steer, Will you come wid me? and he came; but I thought no good Avould come of keeping such com- pany. When we came to a plot of grass, I rested till he satislied himself, and when we came to a bar-room, he stopped at the door like a Christian till I got a dhrop, and we sleeped together at the road-side. In this way we trudged till we came to New York, bad luck to it. I could not get board for myself, far less for my companion ; so said I, Friend, we must part. Having met d i -atcher who asked me to sell the steer, we went inl- v. tavern to have a dhrop. The crathur Avai * ^ on ^ne nt the door ; and when the butcher and I ';anie out to liim, that there fellow (pointing to l watchman) kicked up a row, and took us all tl ?e to the pj!ice oliice." The watchman now sta*^ed what had oc- curred, and the judge tlien asked the owner of the steer if he had any witnesses to prove the theft. He said he had none ; and after the judges had con- sulted a short time, the case was given up, and the prisoner dismissed with an admonition to e"o home to liis own country. " Troth and you may be sure Fll do that/' replied he. 80 NEW YORK, AND On a subsequent day I went to hear an important case at the instance of a respectable merchant in Lon- don, against a person in New York calling himself Gosling, blacking manufacturer to Louis Philippe. The defender (a Frenchman), it was alleged, for- merly occupied a sale shop in London, and had got goods from the pursuer to sell on commission. He had been very regular in his payments, and gradu- ally got into the entire confidence of the pursuer, but had suddenly decamped, taking with him a great deal of money and goods belonging to the pursuer and others. No trace could be got of Gosling for several years, till a gentleman, who happened to be in New York on business, met him, and addressing him by the name he had formerly taken in London, he was at once recognised, and they both talked over old matters together. The gentleman now wrote to the pursuer that he had found his debtor, hut that he had changed his name to Gosling, and was In .^r'rij3 a great dash in New York. The mer- 'vnt i^ lately came out, and brought two wit- esses witn him to identify the defender. Gosling, however, at the trial, brought forward two French- men, both in his employment, the one as carman, and the other his blacking bottler, to prove an alibi. Their evidence was objected to, on the ground that it was very contradictory, and that they were both in the defender's employment — but this was over- ruled ; and, though the witnesses for the English- man swore most distinctly as to the identity of Gos- ling, the plaintiff was non-suited ! The decision ap- peared to me to be most iniquitous ; and I could not help thinking that the greater part of the jury were runaways and swindlers themselves ; and that they were afraid the result of this case might form a precedent which would operate against themselves at some future time. ITS VICINITY. 81 I went to the police-office, and heard several cases of drunkenness, rioting, &c. disposed of. A num- ber of liorrible looking wretches were brought up with broken heads, whites with black eyes, and blacks with white eyes. Indeed the scene alto- gether would match any police-office in the world, and I was very much surprised at the number of cases. Shortly after leaving the court, I observed a man like an emigrant drinking at a pump-well, and went towards him in the expectation that he might be one of my shipmates ; but before I reached him he fell down. I immediately ran to his assistance and found him lying quite senseless, but with the help of two others carried him to an apothecary''s. He however died in our arms, and had not enjoyed American freedom long. The scene was quite af- fecting ; yet almost no one enquired what was the matter, but passed us quite unconcernedly. One man however looked at our burden, and coolly said, " I guess he is dead,*" and went avvay. We met several females ; but not one of them stopped to en- quire what was the matter. I thought what a dif- ference there was betwixt them and my own kind countrywomen, and felt quite disgusted at this ad- ditional sample of Yankee coolness. Indeed the Americans will neither serve the living nor the dead unles. ior dollars. Many accidents like the above arise by people drinking water in this warm climate. The water is also very bad and scarce ; and I saw men boring to the depth of 200 feet through entire sand without finding any thing but brackish water. Returning home, I met three of my former ship- mates, two men and the wife of one of them, who had been very kind to me on the passage ; and I asked them to come and dine with me. I told my landlord that the lady was unwell, and therefore re- 82 NEW YORK, AND 1 \ it •••■'I quested him to give us our dinner in a private room. He said I might take them to my bed-room, and when tlie public dinner was over, would comply with my request. I led them up to my humble apartment, and began to apologize for it ; but the lady said no excuse was necessary, for the boarding houses were all alike miserable, and that she was afraid we had all been deceived, and should not have left Edinburgh. ** I have found,*' said she, " every thing dearer here than in Edinburgh, except fruit and tobacco. There is not a loaf to be got under 6d, (Sgd. sterling) and one cannot get a private room to take bread and beer in unsc'ii, but must sit with them on the street and be stared at. What a change from the comforts which the poorest enjii^y in Edin- burgh !" I tried to raise their spirits, and remarked that the country might turn out better than New York had done. We were supplied with the frag- ments of the general table; and when finished, I asked what was to pay. " Four dollars," replied my landlord. We looked at one another in asto- nishment at this exorbitant charge ; and I resolved to give no more private dinners. I afterwards took a stroll into the country, and went the length of Kingsbridge, which connects the island of Manhattan, on which Nev York is si- tuated, with the main land. I expected to see some tasteful cottages with gardens, but was much disap- pointed, for I saw none except framt!-houses, some of which were white-washed or painted, and though gaudy at a distance, turned out to be very slim and uncomf *i tabit; on examination. Some of tlieni vvere painted a dirty red, a id others not at all, having thereby :i very bare appearance ; and though there Were several orchards, I observed nothing approach- ing to a tolerable garden. The soil appeared to be composed almost entirely of sand, and the few cattle I saw were very lean. \ ITS VICINITY. 83 I now crossed over to the New Jersey side of the Hudson river, and stopped in a tavern all night. Next morning I travelled to Hoboken, which is nearly opposite New York. The countiy had the same appearance as Manhattan Island — sandy and desolate. Being much exhausted with the heat of the sun, I stepped into a bar-room to get some re- freshment ; and the landlord gave me the following description of a duel which had been fought a few days before, and had terminated fatally to both par- ties: — " Two young cadets at the Military Aca- demy at West Point (where I guess they practice rifle-shooting, to repel you Old Countrymen if you again come to tyrannize over us, no mistake), were a-sparking a gal [gallanting a girl] and having quarrelled about her, agreed to settle the dispute by the rifle, and dodge among the trees in that wood, and not to Are twice from the same spot. They were both good shots, no mistake, and fired several in this manner; but at last they both fell, shot through the head. Wasn't that slick .?" I re-crossed the river to New York in a steam- boat, on board of which were a number of gentry sitting under awnings, and enjoying the cool breeze on the river. The ladies were very showily dressed, and much resembled the French. Indeed they fol- low the French fashions entirely in their dresses; and it is reckoned quite vulgar to have any thing British. On landing, I went into a frame bathing- house, moored a little distance from the shore, and got a refreshing bath, for which I paid sixpence. During the lorenoon, I crossed the East lliver to Brooklyn, Long Island, which is situated on a rising ground, and lot>ks showy at a distance ; but, like every thing American that I ha\-e seen, falls oft* upon exami?iation. Many of the wealthy New York merchants live here, and are \ ery exclusive. There were horse-races to-day, wm 1 »'ent to see them. 84 NEW YORK, AND •V. but stopped a very short time, as the thing was al- together a caricature upon racing. The aristocracy are very fond of this amusement, and stake num- bers of acres and dollars upon the result. I after- wards walked a good way into the country, Avhich looked better than either Manhattan or New Jer- sey ; yet, though there were some tolerable farm.«, the appearance of the country generally was bare and uninviting, the cattle lean, and the crops far from good. Indeed I saw nothing even approaching to an East Lothian farm. After returning to Brooklyn, I observed a monu- ment, said to have been erected to the memory of eleA'en thousand martyrs ; and while reading the in- scription, a person tapped me on the shoulder, and said, " I guess, you are from the Old Country." I replied. Yes, and asked what massacre had hap- pened here, for I had never read of it. " How ! possible !" said he, and began thus : ** All the American prisoners the Old Country people took during the war of independence were sent here, and confined in the holds of prison-ships lying at anchor in the river opposite to us, and fed upon rotten beef, mouldy bread, and stinking water, to force them to enlist with their enemies ; but they M'ould not, and died in great numbers, and were buried ^vhere that dock is now built — on the digging for the foundation of which, the bones of eleven thousand persons were found, and buried under this monument. AVe had a grand procession of tlie trades and merchants in New York at the laying of the foundation-stone ; and each party had a leader, who ga\'e a speech. I \;'as in the Tammany Society, and our's gave us an eloquent address, recounting the hardships our forefathers had suffered in the cause of freedom.'" *' Was your leader an American .f*" " No ; he was from England, and a schoolmaster." " Well then," said I, " he would cither be a bankrupt or a SM'ind- ITS VICINITY. 85 ler ; for no honest man would vilify his country in that manner.*" I went on board a large American frigate, lying at a little distance from the dock. She was some- thing like one of our 64-gun ships, but had only 50 guns mounted in the waist, quarter-deck, and fore- castle, some of them long 12-pounders, and the rest carronades. Her decks were well holystoned, and the ends of the ropes on the quarter-deck and fore- castle coiled in the Flemish coil. Indeed she seemed to be in the best order, and ready for sea ; but her crew M-ere composed of natives of every clime and nation, and had by no means the appearance of those of a British man-of-war. In going along the west side of East River, I went and examined a planing and feathering machine, driven by steam, for preparing flooring-deals. The concern was very extensive, and the work well done. I afterwards inspected the slips used for raising leaky vessels to get their cargos livered ; and had the sa- tisfaction of seeing a ship of several hundred tons towed on the frame and raised. There were five strong screws on each side wrought with four wheels and pinions, all increasing the power to each screw, besides the worm, which gave a tremendous pur- chase. The ship was lifted up with great ease, although she seemed to have several feet of water in the hold, the frames to which the screws M'ere at- tached being apparently strong enough to bear a vessel of a thousand tons. After this, I went and saw the anchor and chain-cable manufactory and foundery. The hammers employed were driven by steam ; and the works were very extensive. During my visit to New York, one of the op- ponents of King Jackson, being on a canvassinj? tour through the States, was invited to a dinner which his friends here had got up for him. At H I m XEW YOniC, AND ! i 'i ml"\ this dinner the company did not rise to take their departure, as is customary, so soon as they had de- voured their A'ictuals ; but, the table being cleared, '.vine and spirits M'ere introduced, nml a phite full of cigars piafed before each guest, some ordering half a dollar's worth and some less. Smoking and spit- ting now commenced ; the hall was sooii enveloped in a dense cloud, so that you could not recognize any one at a little distance, and tlic juice of the tobacco was squirted in every direction without re- gard to where it might fall. Some of our clothes were bedaubed with spittle ; but it would have been foolish to remonstrate in an unmannerly company like this. Such a disgusting scene would have been sufficient to cure the most inveterate smoker ; indeed I have known it to have this eft'ect. Sunday, 1st September. — Exceedingly warm and Close. I had not yet got my shoes brushed since landing in this free country ; and on enquiring how I could get this done, I was desired to go to the street and seek a black. I soon found one, having a number of slippers before him upon a board, a pair of which were handed to me, and my shoes soon " fixed," for which I paid sixpence. During the forenoon, I went to a church in Broad- way. Few were yet present ; and I went into an empty seat. Shortly thereafter, several females came to the same seat, and stared at me, but went into one either before or behind me. I wondered what new offence I had committed, for the eyes of the people assembled were all directed towards me ; and I was just preparing to leave the church, when a man came forward, and desired me to come out, as I had taken the female side, and showed me the proper place. After sitting down in this new situ- ation, I observed several of the women who had formerly refused to come into the seat beside me. ITS VICINITY. 87 leave the places they Mont to, and return to their own. I thought surely tlie American women mus^t be chaste, when they will not sit and worsliip God beside a man. Their clieeks were, ho\ve\tT, well painted, and like American scenery they looked best at a distance. This was a Methodist meetin*^ ; and the singing was good ; but the preacher displayed more zeal than knowledge, and bawled out unmerci- fully to an inattentive aiulience, the sweat pouring down his face all the time. I went to another church in the afternoon, whii ii )s well fined. The separation of males and females liere also ; and the latter M'ere generally paint( Many of the shops M'ere open during the day ; and any of the bar-rooms that I entered were filled with loungers smoking and spitting. Indeed, the bar-rooms being the only places boarders have to sit in, they spend the day in loose and unprofitable talk, or reading newspapers. A man of the middle ranks in Scotland, and of reflecting habits, will find himself far from home tliere. After church service on Sundays, the aristocracy of New York have an opportunity of attending either of two concerts held in gardens, one in the Bowery, called Vauxhall Gardens, the other in Broadway, a little beyond Broome street, on the same side with the Park. There are perhaps many others, but I do not know of them. The music is very melodious ; and between the interludes, the bar-rooms are crowded. You are charged one shil- ling for refreshments, but nothing for the singers — the bar-keeper pays them. Smoking and spitting are carried on to a great extent. — Tliere are many castes, in New York : The highest, the aristocracy, are composed of the descendants of banished men or adventurers who have been successful in busi- ness, and left something behind them ; the next are h2 ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // & -^ ^ 1.0 1.1 I^IM 12.5 >tt ^ |22 2.0 US 140 11.25 ■IMU U |l^ A" o Fhotographic Science Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STtin WMSTn,N.Y. USM (71«)t73-4S0S ■lit I 88 NEW YORK, AND the swindlers, who, having cheated their creditors at home, are dashing away as merchants, har-keepers, &c. ; the next are those clerks and shop-keepers who have heen duped, and have come here in the expectation of getting high salaries and cheap pro- visions ; then the mechanics and labourers, who have been decoyed in a similar manner ; and lastly, the people of colour, who have been nominally em- ancipated from slavery, but are still under that de- gradation, being contemned by all the other castes, and made a butt of laughter, from the pulpit to the stage. The tail of the above castes imitates the higher orders in bar-rooms, drinking brandy at three- pence per tumbler, smoking and spitting, till the whole floor is bedaubed. This day I arranged the plan of my journey, and resolved to go first to Philadelphia, and travel from thence to the western country, with the view of fol- lowing out my original intention of purchasing land if advisable. I informed my landlady of my resolu- tion ; and she said to me, " I guess you wont like this country. I expect you will return home, and, if you come this way, make our house your home. Our boarders say you are constantly writing — are you going to make a book ?■*"* I said I had then no intention of doing so. " Did you know a Mr Stu- art who wrote a book ?" " No,"" I replied, " but he lived in the same town as I did."*' " He flattered this country very much, and the Old Country people believed him ; but I guess now. Sir, you M'ont.'' " No, madam, I guess not." ** He went the whole hog ; but we were too knowing for him, no mis- take." " Did you know him, madam ?" " Yes, he boarded with an acquaintance of mine for a long time, and was a very quiet man, seldom going out." I said, " Is his description of America and American plenty accurate ?" " Oh, no," said she, " the Yan- kees know better, and so must you. Indeed, though / ITS VICINITY. 89 I am an American myself, I must say that I hay^ always found the Old Country men more honest and trust-worthy ; but have hardly found an honest American — they are the pfreatest cheats in the world, and laugh at you when they do so." Shortly afterwards, one of my shipmates, a cotton- spinner, called upon me. He sat down on the side of a bed, began to clasp his hands, and appeared to be in a mournful condition. He said, '* J do not know what to do ; I have been at all the mills seek- ing employment, but can get none ; they were pay- ing of!' instead of taking in hands. I have offered myself for my meat, but no one will take me even on these terms. I have been deceived by these cursed travellers — my money is nearly all spent, and I cannot get back." I gave him a shilling to get some refreshment, and requested him to try and get the master baker and as many of our shipmates as possible, as I wished to give them a treat before leaving New York. He returned in the afternoon with upwards of a dozen of them, not one of whom had got employment. I shook hands among others with the master-iaker, and asked what cheer. He said, " I have applied to every master-baker in New York and Brooklyn for employment, but can get none. If I had half the money I spent in drink on the passage, I would return to Old Scotland and face my creditors. I would then be a new man ; but alas ! I am ruined. You used to write when I was play- ing cards, drinking, and boasting of America. Now I am miserable, and you have courage." I was quite vexed for the poor fellow, for I thought him an honest man at bottom, but entirely misled like many others by his enthusiasm for America. I tried to comfort him, but it would not do. " Oh," said he, ** we need not now deceive ourselves, we have been gulled by a pack of swindlers and hirelings." u3 90 NEW YORK, AND I ^ot a gallon of rum and some bread and cheese, and helped them round ; but nothing would raise the spirits of my companions, who were all downcast, with the single exception of a shoemaker from Glas- gow (now there). He said, " My brother wrote me a very flattering letter regarding America ; and, having read Stuart's book and others, I got discon- tented in my good seat of work, sold oiF my furni- ture, and came out here with my family. On en- tering my brother''s wooden house, I found him sit- ting in a miserable room without almost any furni- ture, day-light shining through the crevices of his dwelling, and two or three pieces of wood burn- ing on the hearth. After seeing the true state of matters, I accused him of his perfidy, and we almost came to blows. The spirit of the devil appears to enter people who settle in this country, and I could not believe my nearest friends. I am, however, quite satisfied ; I have seen and felt what it is, and will now go home with my family, and be a contented man. I have already taken out our passage back." " I wish to God I could do that,"" said the master-baker. An Irish labourer was also in the company. He had tried almost every builder in New York, but could get no employment. At last I took an affecting farewell of them all. — Re- verting to the master-baker, a personage who cuts a distinguished figure in my Voyage, the Reader may probably wish to know something of his subsequent career ; but I regret that I cannot supply the infor- mation, as I never saw him again, nor learned any particulars regarding him. During the short time I remained in New York, I saw and helped many beggars ; but theirs is a poor trade here, for the Americans take all and give nothing. I saw plenty of ragged drunken peo- ple and prostitutes, but never observed a fiddler or an organ-player on the streets. I however noticed ITS \ ICINITY. 91 several broom-girls ; but their songs could not charm a cent out of an American. Indeed, I almost never heard a person sing as in Edinburgh. This country seems to be like Trophonius's cave ; it soon humbles all who enter it. I have heard little converi&dtion among the men but about dollars — little among the women but about sauce and dress. Next morning I went to the quay and saw the foreign emigrants lying on the streets exactly as be- fore. I afterwards dressed myself in my sea-clothes, whicli were not in the best condition, and tying a bundle on my back, crossed the Hudson to Paul's Hook, in New Jersey. iHjtif^.- 92 CHAP. III. Journey to Pennsylvania and Cincinnati. Paul's Hook is a small village of prepossessing appearance, but only at a distance. Some of the houses appear to be of brick ; but the greater part are of wood, some painted a dirty brown, and others white. The town is low-lying, sandy, and swampy. Proceeding onwards, I had not gone far when I saw a garter-snake crossing the road. I killed it with a stone, and then examined it. It kept its beautiful dark glistening eyes steadily fixed upon me even in death ; and I could not help thinking that the Ame- ricans must have taken a lesson from the snake iu the art of staring. New Jersey seems to be thinly inhabited ; the soil light and sandy ; and the trees stunted in growth. I crossed over many bridges, which were rural enough in construction, being formed by trunks of trees laid across the stream, with loose planks on the top, so that one would think a horse would be frightened to go across. I passed a large swamp called Cranberry Marsh, from the number of berries of that name growing on it ; also some " cleared spots'"' seemingly deserted. Cattle were wandering in the woods, one of which had a box hanging to its neck in the form of an old cani&ter. I observed several hogs with frames on their necks like those I had seen on Staten Island, also geese with frames of a different construction. Notwithstanding the extent of population in the large towns, very few travellers are to be met with on the roads. No schoolboy with his satchel, " creep- ing unwillingly to school/" is to be seen i nor mischie- 1 PENNSYLVANIA. 93 ; vous urchin peppering the apples that are sometimes to be found hanging so temptingly by the way-side. Indeed, in many long districts, it would cost some search to find a stone large enough to bring down an apple, the soil is so light and sandy. There is a striking difference in the construction of the roads in America from those one is accustom- ed to see in Britain. The former are kept in very bad repair, being full of deep holes, though the charge for road-money is very heavy. They are, however, sufficiently wide in some places. Few cot- tages are to be seen, and those that are, being either log or frame ones, shew that the inhabitants are not far removed from the condition of mere savages, whose huts are easily pulled down by their owners, and as easily constructed anew. There seem to be only four removes from the savage to civilized life in the structure of habitations, viz. l5^,The hut, 2d, the log-house, 3d, the frame, and 4#/i, the brick or stone- house. There is no attention paid to gardening in America— no taste displayed as is generally the case in English and Scotch cottages — and they have all a comfortless and forbidding appearance. I never saw the garden of the sluggard so completely exem- plified as in America. Passing through a village, I saw a man upon a wooden platform placed before a white painted house, which had a hanging sign, with the words '* Vanburgh''s Home*" upon it. The man had a large bell, similar to our police-cart bells, in his hand, and kept ringing loudly as he walked along and along the platform. I saw numbers running into the house from different places, but did not join them. In an American village you will seldom see two houses connected, the reason of which I suppose to be, that in case of fire, the spreading of the flames among such combustible materials may be more 94 JOURNEY TO easily prevented. Entering^ another village, I ob- seiTed a sign with the words " Burton's Home." Hunger had given me some courage, and I went into the bar-room, and called for spirits and water, A bottle and a tumbler, with a jug of water, were placed on the sill before me. There were about a dozen persons in the room besides myself^ and I ob- served that each put into his tumbler as much li» quor as he wanted, without measuring it. I had purposely waited to see how they acted in this par- ticular, and now followed their example. The charge was 6d. (equal to our 3d). I asked if I could get any thing to eat, and a bed for the night. The bar-keeper, giving me the usual stare, said he would enquire; and I sat down in the meantime on a bench outside the bar. No private apartments for the traveller here — every thing is done in public. I listened to the conversation going on, and found it related to an execution about to take place, at Tren- ton, of a man for killing his wife — I thought there had been no such thing as hanging in America. The bar-keeper returned and told me I should have the accommodation wanted ; and in a short time abun- dance of meat was placed before me by a woman of colour. I ate in public, a circumstance which was new to me, as indeed was almost every thing ; and what made it more annoying was the perpetual staring of the company, who hardly kept their eyes off me a moment. When I had tinished, I asked what was to pay, and was answered, a quarter-dollar. I then went out and strolled a short time among the woods, where a constant chorus was kept up among the bull- frogs, the grasshoppers, and the crickets. I like- wise hewd the blue jay screaming and the wood- pecker tapping, the sound of which last had a me- lancholy enough effect ; also a snake rustling among some grass at my feet. The country, though low- lying, was rolling and undulating, the soil sandy and /' e, I ol). Home." I went d water, er, were about a nd I ob- nuch li" I had this par- e charge 3uld get t. The le would ne on a ents for public, found it It Tren- ht there la. The ave the e abun- oman of vas new id what aring of ff nie a lat was I then woods, Hie bull- I like- wood- a me- among ?h low- dy and PENNSYLVANIA. d5 marshy. Standing on a small hill, I observed a cleared spot at a little distance. I next went into the fields, having climbed over a worm-fence, and saw a man hoeing potatoes, which are planted by digging a large hole, and put- ting several whole ones into it. These holes are about four feet asunder in one direction, and six feet in another. As soon as the plants begin to appear above the soil, or rather I should say the sand, fresh gand is hoed up around them, so that they stand in heaps of considerable size, and resembling mole- hills. The same system is observed in planting In- dian corn, several seeds being placed in one hole, and sometimes three or four pumpkin seeds along with them. I have seen fields newly hoed in this manner laid as flat as if they had never been touch- ed, by the rains, which frequently descend in tor- rents ; so that the farmer has plenty of work, under a broiling sun, without corresponding remuneration. I may mention here one of the advantages, which most of our travellers have unaccountably overlook- ed. It is this : The crows are very numerous at times, and when they see the labourer busy plant- ting potatoes or Indian corn, they will watch till he goes away, and with mathematical precision go from hole to hole, and, as the soil is soft and sandy, very frequently eat up all the seeds, leaving nothing to the farmer. Nor are these birds easily shot, for they are dexterous at dodging ; add to which, they are clothed in block, whereas the Americans are famed only for taking aim at red. The man who was busily employed hoeing in the manner above de- scribed wore a broad-rimmed straw hat, which pro- jected over his shoulders, the rest of his dress being very ragged. Having accosted him, I ascertained that he was an Irishman, that he had not been long in the country, had however travelled a good deal in it in search of employment, and on several occa- ■iiM-' 96 JOURNEY TO sions was necessitated to work merely for his board. There are no beggars in America, say some of our travellers ! Pie was more fortunate in his present situation, for he got four dollars a month besides his board. He rose at three in the morning, breakfasted at four, dined at twelve, and supped at sun-doM'n. His hours of employment, either in the fields or at other work, Avere from sun-rise to sun-down. He told me that he had often tried to save as much money as would carry him home, and hoped yet to be able to accomplish this before the fall ; for labourers and tradesmen cannot always work here in summer on account of the heat and the vermin, nor in winter for the cold, " bad luck to America,"" as he said. Returning to my home, I found a number of per- sons assembled, some of them conversing on politics and some on other things ; but the chief topic of dis- course seemed to be the " hanging-bee" at Trenton. I had here an opportunity of observing the charac- teristic features of the Americans. Their cheek- bones are prominent, their eyes small and sunken ; and their voice in pronouncing particular words has a peculiar nasal sound. They however speak very good English. Being recognized as an Old Country- man, a number of the group came towards me, and began putting questions about the War of Indepen- dence. Of course I took the British side in the dis- cussion, pointing out that most of them were born Britons, that they spoke the British language, and adopted the British law ; and that, after the mother- country had expelled the French from among them, and had driven back the Indians at a great expense, the Americans had refused to pay any part of the outlay. " They had beaten us, however ;" this I confessed, but it was with our own men, many of M'hom had deserted us. Some of the battles were next exultingly alluded to ; I replied that I never had reason to blush on account of British cowardice, PENNSYLVANIA. 07 lis board, le of our s present esides liis eakfasted un-down. slds or at He told money as >e able to irers and mmer on in winter 3 said. er of per- n politics )ic of dis- Trenton. e charac- ir cheek- sunken ; rords has )eak very Country- me, and Indepen- [1 the dis- vere born age, and B mother- ng them, expense, rt of the C this I many of ties were t I never >wardice, and instanced tlie naval encounter betwixt the Shan- non and the Chesapeake, — how the captain of the latter had ordered a dinner on an extensive scale when the engagement was over, and promised to brini^ a number of the officers of the Shannon to partake of it — how he desired his countrymen to look to him, which they accordingly did, and had the mor- tification to see the Chesapeake strike — and how the British captain took his opponent, along with his offi- cers, to Boston to dine there. I added, " I think the dinner got time to cool."" " But we beat you in the end," said one of them. " Only with our own men," I replied. The party were sometimes very angry with me ; and what seemed strange, I got no support from any one, those that did not oppose me maintaining a profound silence. Finding myself wearied, I dropped farther discussion, and went to bed, where, musing on this sample of American politeness, I fell asleep, and dreamt of home ; from which pleasing illusion, however, I was awakened by a person coming in beside me. There is little ceremony among travellers in America. Next day 1 pursued my route to Trenton. I fell in with a person in a waggon, who kindly offered me a seat. Our discourse soon turned to the subject of the execution about to take place in that city. He told me that he knew the man well, — that his name was Charles Getter, and that he had had the misfortune to get a worthless woman with child. This woman had taken the law of him, as the saying is, and he was cast either to marry her or maintain the child. He was a poor worthless creature himself, from Ire- land, and as he could not keep the child, he pro- mised to marry the mother, telling her, at the same time, that he was already engaged to another, and if she insisted on the fulfilment of his promise, he would assuredly murder her. She would have JL . ' 9» JOURNEY TO him, however, " no mistake ;^ and they were not long married when he did murder her. He effected his purpose in this manner : She intended to go some distance on a visit to a relation, and was pro- ceeding alone, when he intercepted her in the woods and killed her. When she was discovered to be amissing, her husband was taken into custody and examined, but denied all knowledge of what had be- come of her. The body having been found, he was tried on suspicion, as he had so often threatened tiio murder, and was " cast,'' no mistake. My in- formant added, ** He has since confessed his crime, and you will have an opportunity of witnessing an execution in America.'' I found my companion to be very civil and in- telligent. As we occasionally passed a house in ruins, I remarked to him in some instances that the farm seemed deserted, when he would reply, ** Yes ; the person who owned that farm struggled long, but had to clear out {ft last. This New Jersey State is the poorest in the Union." — Nothing seems so miserable as a deserted log or frame-house ; it wants even the venerable appearance of a mud or turf-house. We now entered Trenton ; houses wood ; the town straggling. Among other signs above shop- doors, I observed the words ** Notary-Public." The inn to which my kind conductor took me was crowded with customers. Having gone out to view the preparations for the execution, I observed that the scaffold was of a very simple construction, the upper boards being laid on the frame without any fastening. Two upright posts were placed at one end, with a beam across them. A plank was raised about a foot above the platform; and at the op- posite end a form was placed. A short ladder i*eached the platform, which was very low. As this was the day the sentence was to be carried into eze- PENNSYLVANIA. 99 cution, a considerable rrowd of people had arrived, some on horseback, many in waggons, and most ok* all on foot. A guard of soldiers in blue uniform faced with red kept the people at a distance — not a single person as yet was on the scaffold. By and bye the procession was seen advancing. First came the sheriff on hori^eback ; next the criminal dressed in wiiite, and seated in a waggon between two con- stables ; and, lastly, another wuggou containing a red-stained coffin. When the procession reached tlie foot of the ladder, the sheriff first ascended, fol- lowed by a clergyman, behind whom came the cri- minal with the fatal rope round his neck. The two latter sat down upon the form, while the former stood with his face towards the crowd, and occa- sionally glancing at the apparatus of death. Mean- while a solemn hymn was beautifully sung, after which the sheriff came forward and said something to the clergyman, when the devotions terminated. It would appear that there is no such ofRce as that of hangman in America, as the sheriff, on this oc- casion, performed the whole duties in person. He ascended the plank along with the criminal, at- tached the rope to the beam, and then asked the prisoner how much fall he wished — a compliment, no doubt, to the subject of a free state. The rope was now made fast by the sheriff-hangman, by whom the cap was next pulled over the culprif s eyes, and a handkerchief given to him as the signal. The sherift' then descended from the platform, mounted his horse, and rode thrice round the scaffold with a watch in his hand, stopping each time he came op- posite the prisoner, and saying on the first occasion, " You have three minutes to live," again, " Two minutes," and lastly, " One minute," when he stood . still. The signal then fell, and the sheriff pushed a pin or button with his foot, when the rope gave i2 . •) i 100 JOURNEY TO way, and both the criminal and the plank fell to the ground. By the assistance of some soldiers, he was carried up and placed upon the form, while some one went and brought a new rope. This the sheriff, as before, placed round his necJ:, and he was supported, and once more stationed on the plank. The sheriff next made fast this new rope to the beam, and afterwards again mounted his horse, rode round the scaffold as before, and saying " You have one minute to live,'' made another pause. Apparently the criminal did not hear the words, for he did not drop the handkerchief, nevertheless the sheriff pushed the pin, and the plank fell from under him. After hanging about half an hour, the body was lowered down by the sheriffj and then placed in a coffin. I now took the road to Burlington. I observed a horse picking up a scanty morsel of grass by the way-side, with a pole hung round his neck, the ap- pearance of which put me in mind of Gambado, who made use of a pole of this description to prevent his horse from atumhling. Having enquired the meaning of this from a person passing, he replied, " To keep him from leap.'ig." A little farther on, I saw a hog standing on the road with a frame of a different form from what I had yet seen round his neck. He had got a large snake, which he grasped by the middle, in his mouth ; and as the reptile writhed itself at either extremity, the effect produced was very much as if the hog had horns. I stopped and looked at him ; he was pretty large but lean. He held his head erect like a soldier, and seemed quite conscious of his own importance, the snake still writhing itself from the corners of his mouth, and forming many a curve, till at length the hog divided it in two, and bolted it. Arrived at Burlington, I had again to stand jn defence of Britain in a bar-room. Her crimes were PENNSYLVANIA. 101 Spread out before me in formidable array; but I justified her in almost all her acts, My kind friend the shoemaker from the Candlemaker-row, whom I visited in New York, had told me, that in tra- velling over the Union I ought never to quail be- neath an American stare, but to retort on my an- tagonists every hard word spoken against my country, for that this was my safest plan, as the Americans, though proud, boastful, and rude, were generally cowards at bottom. I had thus been timeously put on my guard ; and this was the second occasion I had to put the lesson in practice. Supped again in the public bar-room, and am now getting better ac- quainted with the customs of the country. I now entered the State of Pennsylvania, having crossed the Delaware in a horse ferry-boat. These boats are exceedingly flat-bottomed, and have a plat- form at either end, which folds up by means of hinges when cattle are on board ; and, on reaching the oppo- site shore, one of these platforms is lowered down on the pier or bank, by which means the cattle are landed in the greatest safety. Two horses, which propel the boat, are stationed in a square gang-way, having their traces fastened to strong posts. They move their feet, without advancing, on a horizontal wheel, which is thus turned round, and in its revolution puts in motion other machinery, by which means the paddle-wheels on either side, like those in our own steam-boats, are driven round. The alluvial soil on the banks of the Delaware produces good Indian corn, wheat, and rye ; but the fields are often inundated by tho river overflowing its banks, and carrying wooden houses, wooden barns, and wooden fences along with it, thus laying the whole bottom-land waste, and bringing ruin, upon the farmer. The receding of the waters, how- ever, leaves a rich sediment, which produces good .. . ■ I 3 ,.;...„.. 102 JOURNEY TO crops for several years in succession, without much labour, and without any manure ; and the happy oc> cupant never dreams of a similar calamity occurring again, though in all probability, after the lapse of a lew years, he also is hurled to destruction. I crossed the Scuylkill on a wooden covered bridge having a pontage-gate, the charge of which is, for a foot-passenger 3 cents, a horse 8d. a two- horse or two-steer \^'aggon Is. I inspected here some saw-mills used tor cutting lime-stone into slabs, which resemble our coarse marble. Several houses in New York are built of these slabs, and have a pretty appearance. The country seems to abound in this mineral; and I saw men burning some of the stones with wood, for the purpose of making lime, having no kiln for the purpose ; but the process seemed tedious and laborious. The country is greatly clearer of wood, and more popu- lous, than New Jersey. It is, however, very un- dulating, and the soil sandy, and seemingly prolific in what are called Canadian thistles, which cer- tainly emigrate to the Southern States in great numbers. I went on to Lancaster, which is said to be the first place in the Union for manufacturing swords ; and I heard it remarked that the sword-blades made here were even superior to those of Damascus. Having taken up my residence in a bar-room, or " home"" as it is called, at sun-down a number of the workers in iron came in to get some drink. I was recognized as having come from a land of sla- very ; and one of the men said he wished much that America would go to war with England. I simply asked him if he really thought America would send an army to invade Britain, and took little farther notice of the conversation. Next day I proceeded to Philadelphia. This town covers a great space -of ground ; several of the PENNSYLVANIA. 303 streets are much too wide, and others very narrow. People of colour are more numerous here than in New York ; and the people in general seem more civil. Though the stores are well filled with goods, there is not the same bustle of business as in the town above mentioned. Observing a sign with the words, " Ale sold here," I went into the house and got a tumbler of that liquor, tor which I was charged threepence. A person having come into the bar-room with the skin of his face all broken out into a solid scab, I asked the bar-keeper what was the matter, and was told that it was a distemper called the ringworm, which is sometimes very preva- lent in summer, but generally disappears when the cold weather sets in. Though very troublesome, however, it is not a dangerous disease. Next morning I went to the court to hear the trial of a case of singular hardship to an importer of goods. It appeared that some officious person had given information at the custom-house that a certain vessel contained a quantity of smuggled goods. The custom-house officers accordingly opened every pack- age and bale in the ship, in consequence of which a great many valuable articles were destroyed, and some carried oft*; but, after using every liberty, the officers discovered nothing except what was regu- larly entered in the manifest. This action was therefore raised at the instance of the owner of the vessel, for damages on account of the loss he had sustained, but was decided against him, upon the ground that the officers of the customs had only done their duty, having been misled oy the information they had received. I called upon several booksellers in the town ; and I may here remark, as a singular circumstance, that I have not seen a copy of Franklin^s Life or "^orks since I came to America. I happened on one occasion to ask for a sight of a directory, and 1 i i'l! 'i f \( r i t 104 JOUBNEY TO the shopkeeper had the assurance to demand 6d. for the inspection, which I afterwards understood is the common charge here. Walking along the shore, I observed some men standing round a barrel, the two ends of which were out, but their place supplied by a piece of cloth tied round, and which had been siink in the Delaware all night. I ascertained that it was used as a trap to catch eels, a hose being placed at either end by which the eels might creep in, but so constructed as to prevent them from escaping after they had entered. The barrel being rolled to some distance from the beach, one of the ends was opened, and it was quite astonishing to see the num- ber of eels that had been caught. I went to the land-office, with the third num- ber of Chambers' Information for the People in my pocket, to enquire what lands were for sale in the Highlands of Pennsylvania, intending to go and look at them before making a purchase. A person handed me a pamphlet, thicker than the Edinburgh Review, entitled " State-lands for sale for arrears of taxes," some in every township of Pennsylvania. This was something I did not expect, as I had thought there were no taxes in America. Not being able to find any trace of a person I wished much to see, I left Philadelphia, and pro- ceeded to Baltimore. This seems to be a greater place of traffic than the town I had just left. The streets are narrow, the water bad ; rats very nu- merous, and flies exceedingly annoying. I called at the carpet-factory to enquire for my old ship- mate the weaver from Bannockburn. I found he had got no employment there, as many of the hands were being paid off; nor could I trace what had become of him. The day was so oppressively hot, that the people were obliged to refrain from work- ing. I fell in with a Mr Wilson from Edinburgh, a planter in Georgia, who pressed me much to come PENNSYLVANIA. 105 \ and spend the winter with him at his plantation. I promised to do so, if I found it convenient. This country is undulating, the soil sandy and barren ; many deserted farms, and log-houses in luins. Thistles, swamps, bull-frogs, grasshoppers, crickets, snakes, and mosquitoes, are to be found in abun- dance. I had here the luxury of sleeping in a bed with gauze curtains to keep out the vermin. I now proceeded on the road to Washington ; soil sandy, gravelly ; many people of colour hoeing Indian corn in the fields. Saw several marshes of considerable extent, upon which excellent cranber- ries are produced. In approaching the capital, in- stead of the country improving, it appears to be- come more desolate, the emigrating thistle being the most thriving plant to be seen. The city is very much scattered, many of the streets running at right angles to each other, and exceedingly wide ; many of the store-windows shut, and the stores themselves apparently empty ; cows wandering in the streets, and picking up a scanty morsel. Congress was not sit- ting, and I saw very few people stirring. This seems to be a fit place for fever and ague, the thermometer being now at 97> while in winter it is said to sink 12 degrees below zero — a variety of climate which none but an American constitution could stand. Indeed even among them it would appear that the deaths are very numerous, as the grave-yard, to which I now directed my steps, can testify in language not to be mistaken. I copied several inscriptions on the monuments, many of the words of which, I thought, M'ere wrong spelt ; but on afterwards mentioning this to a bookseller, he assured me that it was our method of spelling which was erroneous. In con- firmation of this he shewed me a dictionary by one Webster (I think), an American lexicographer, and exhibiting Johnson's at the same time, desired me to compare the two. I did so ; and, oh shade pi Johnson ! how would'st thou have blushed to see r ^ 4 i 106 JOURNEY TO thyself convicted of spelling so egregiously wrong ! While thus busy surveying and reading the epi- taphs, I perceived another person come in and ful- low my example ; I knew by his features that he was not an American. Another person followed, and addressing the first, said, '' You will find many a name of great celebrity here. Sir, for this is the place where the members of Congress are buried ; and if you are in the habit of reading the news- papers, you w ill recollect many of them, no mistake. I guess you are from the Old Country /"* " You are right there," replied the Englishman ; " but in- deed I have not yet seen a name that I can bring to my recollection." " I calculate you read the papers." " I do," he replied, " but still I cannot bring one of them to my remembrance." " There," said the American, *' lies one that was a splendid orator, and an ardent lover of liberty — but, poor man ! he is gone." " But I never heard of him till now," continued the Englishman. " There must be some mistake," said the republican ; " No," answered the monarchist, " there is no mistake." Jonathan stared as in surprise, and the Englishman without ceremony turned upon his heel and left him. I now accosted my countryman, telling him where I had come from, and soon tbund that he had as poor an opinion of American institutions and Ame- rican manners as I had myself. Really the British must have had a great deal of trouble in burning this town of Washington, be- cause, as the buildings are so isolated, they would require to have applied a match to every individual house. It is no wonder, then, that they so soon tired of the work ; though no doubt, from the materials of the houses being of wood and completely dried by the heat of the sun, the conflagration once begun would go on with great rapidity. I slept again in a gauze-curtained bed, the bull-frogs and grasshop- PENNSYLVANIA. 107 tvrong ! he epi. md fol- that he llowed, d many i is the buried ; 5 news- nistake. " You but in- n bring sad the cannot There,'' iplendid it, poor of him ' There « No,'' istake." shman 't him. where lad as Ame- deal of an, be- would ividual n tired rials of ied by begun ^aiu in isshop- '] pers constantly keeping up my attention with their never-ceasing chorus. I now set out to cross the Potomac into Virginia, purposing to visit Mount Vernon, formerly the seat of the great Washington, and where his remains are deposited. The farther you go south, the people of colour appear more numerous. The country here is sandy and gravelly, having the appearance as if the soil was exhausted ; the trees stunted in growth. The roads leading to Washington House are in miserable repair, the fences in a dilapidated condi- tion, and every thing around fast hastening to de- cay. The house itself is of wood, but sanded over, as many others are, which gives it the appearance, at a little distance, of being built with stone. Around the mausoleum a few trees are planted, but sadly mutilated by the visitors lopping off sprigs. The door of the vault is broken ; and I should not wonder if the Goths and Vandals who visit it were to carry off the very bones of the patriot, if they were once to effect an entrance. The Americans scarcely ever allude to Washington's exploits ; his memory is revered by strangers, but not by his own countrymen. The estate has long been in the mar- ket for sale, at the instance of his imbecile succ?s- sor ; but as the land (or rather I should say sand, or gravel, for I have hardly yet seen any j||ing that can be called land) appears quite exhausted, he has as yet got no adequate offer. I understand he wished to sell the property to the State, but the proposal was declined. He now purposes to dispose of the whole by lottery — house, grounds, his great ancestor's ashes, and all — and as the Americans are so fond of trying their luck, or *' calculating," as they say, I should not be surprised if he were to succeed by this manoeuvre, as, by the risk of a mere trifle, there would be a chance of obtaining the whole. i 1 108 JOURNEY TO I now commenced my journey to the Highlands of Pennsylvania, otherwise the Alleghany Moun* tains, so gloriously described in Chambers' work. I passed through a barren country, few houses to be seen, and those few either log or frame ones. I crossed many a bridge of the most primitive con- struction, the roads in many places being unfit for either horses or waggons. I carried along with me a pocket compass, a telescope, and a good map, where towns were laid down of which not a house was built. I am getting familiar with the nasal sound of voice and the high cheek-bones by which an Ame- rican is so easily identified. Every generation de- scending from the ancient stock exhibits a gradual assimilation in voice and features to the Indian. Though the country abounds in stone, the people seldom or never think of building with that material. As to mud or turf houses, I saw nothing of the sort to build them with, sand being always predominant ; yet, for all that may be said against turf-houses or hovels, they are really more comfortable than an American log-house. The log-house is constructed of trunks of trees in the round state, but partly squared, and notched at the ends to prevent them from rolling off. No nails or even pins are used, and if there be a curve in any of the logs, the va- cant space is filled with rags or sand, lime being very scarce, and there being no other substitute. The fire-place is generally built with rounded stones in the form of a pyramid, broad at the base and gradually narrowing towards the top of the roof, where it terminates in a single stone. The open spaces allow free ingress to the wind from M'hatever quarter it blows ; and from the quantity of smoke thereby dispersed through the house, the inmates are as thoroughly smoked as if they were red her- PliNNSYLVAXIA. 109 li^hlands y Moun- rs' work, [louses to ones. I tive con- unfit for ; with me sip, where ouse was sound of an Ame- ation de- I gradual ) Indian, hie people material, f the sort ominant ; louses or than an nstructed it partly ent them ire used, , the va- ne being ibstitute. ed stones base and the roof, he open ^'hatever >f smoke inmates red her- rings". No t ' or thatch are used for the rool — only wooden boards. When about to cross the Skinnado river in a wag- gon, over a wooden covered bridge, the driver and myself were in earnest conversation, and giving little heed to the state of the road, when suddenly both our horses, perceiving a wide breach in the planks of the bridge, two of which had given way, dexterously cleared it with a spring. One of the horses of another waggon had fallen through shortly before, and was now lying dead in the river. These bridges, as formerly described, are exceedingly frail and insecure; but until such time as an accident like what I now saw occurs, no one ever thinks of mending the decayed or broken planks, though there are trustees whose duty it is to look after such mat- ters. Went on towards Williamsburgh ; soil stoney, sandy, and veiy barren ; trees stunted ; country wild, and seemingly deserted ; Canadian thistles abounding. Arrived at the town, I fell in with a gentleman who was about to proceed to Bedford, in this State. He put many questions to me regard- ing the Old Country, which I answered as far as I could. He M'as apparently above 60 years of age, of Irish extraction, and had served under Washing- ton — his name was Williams. He told me that the present race of Americans had degcaerated much both in physical energy and morality from those of his younger days; the present generation having no other idea than how to make dollars, dollars, no matter by what means. I remarked to him that the horses, even though covered with a harness of thongs, seemed to suffer much from the bite of the insects ; and he confessed that they were a great annoyance, and asked me if they were not as trouble- some in my own country. I said, " No, for their K no JOURNEY TO W i " bite has draM'n blood from me here, while in Britain, howo\'er teazing, they very seldom bite.**' He told me that he had often to desist from working in the fields on this account, and at night was frequently obliged to kindle a fire at the door of his house to prevent the insects from entering ; they were a great plague certainly, " but,^^ he added, " we are accus- tomed to nothing better."" — My hands and face now blistered with the heat. Journeying onwards with the waggoner, one of our horses having cast his shoe, we had to stop at a smithy to get a new one. The farrier was en- gaged shoeing a steer, which he performed in this manner : The steer was dragged into a frame where he had little room to struggle, and his head and horns pulled over a block of wood fixed to the frame. Another block was fastened down at the back of his head, and wedged so that he could not move it, yet had sufficient room to breathe. A frame, some- what like our butchers'* killing-stools, was put under his belly, and made fast by a chain at the two cor- ners on one side of the animal, and other chains were hooked to a beam on the other side. This beam, being rolled round with a lever, held up the aniiAal in such a position that its feet scarcely touched the ground, so that it had not the power to move. A noose was then made fast to the ancle of the foot intended to be shod, and hauled up and made fast to a cross-spar on the frame. The smith then put on a piece of iron shaped to answer the curve of the hoof, but only on the outside ; the shoe was nailed on exactly like those of our horses. I observed one of the steer's ancles bleeding from the tight lashing and hammering. This process over, the smith re-entered the smithy ; it was built with logs, the floor being composed of loose boards. He wore a broad-brimmed strasw-hatf and a red flannel shirt ; his lang;iuage and features PENNSYLVANIA. Ill ■' were those of a regular Yankee. His stock of iron was very poor ; the anvil had lost its nozle ; the vice and also the bellows were miserably bad ; and he had only one pair of tongs and two hammers, one of which my companion took up, and he the other, and both wrought together in hammering out the iron, till the shoe we required was fashioned. Charred wood was used instead of coal. Hav- ing asked the smith whether he followed. Taplin's or Lawrence''s system of farriery, he turned round, and giving me the real Yankee stare, (which I returned) said haughtily, " I guess I know my business better than to require instruction from any book."*^ I replied that he certainly had the advan- tage of our farriers, who generally consulted all the books on the subject within their reach. The shoe being now put on, my comrade placed the old one in the waggon, iron being a scarce commodity, and we drove on. Having informed my companion what was the ob- ject of my journey, and read to him Chambers'* ar- ticle on the subject, he said " It is very slick ; and as I have many maple trees myself, and sometimes make maple sugar, you shall see the process, and also the trees themselves, and the soil which rears them. There ai'e two kinds of maple trees, the hard and soft, no mistake ; but I will explain every thing to you, and shall be very happy if you come and settle, for our country is far too thinly peopled. Well, then, maple sugar is made when the snow and ice begin to break up, and the buds first make their appearance. A hole is bored into the stem with an augre ; in this hole a spout is inserted, and the sap flows out into a wooden trough. It has an insipid taste in this rude state ; and one may figure the at- tention required to be bestowed, when I mention that one man has frequently to attend to a hundred Pi ♦ k2 112 JOURKEY TO and twenty trees, thoiigli considerably distant from each other. Another person gathers Mood for fuel, and superintends the hoiling, adding more liquor as it evaporates, till it acciuires the colour and consis- tence of molasses. 1'he labour is incessant, the workmen having to perform their duties day and night, generally up to the ancles in snow ; and they have temporary huts erected called shanties, to which they occasionally retire for repose. After every thing is prepared, and the operations commenced, should the frost set in, no more sap will flow again from the tree during that season ; for the sap dries up also in the spring time, so soon as the bud begins to open ; so that the process of maple-sugar making seldom lasts a week even in the most favourable seasons. Such is the labour and precarious nature of the process, that many people take tea M'ithout sugar from year to year rather than be at the trouble of manufacturing it. The soil in which the trees grow is sandy and marshy ; and however beautiful the sugar may be, as reflected in the mirror of Cham> hers' pages, it is in reality nearly as dark as negro- head tobacco, and the making of it as disagreeable a business as can be conceived.''^ My new acquaintance having taken me to see his place, where I spent a night, was exceedingly anxi- ous that I should settle in this quarter, and I for my own part was as far from being satisfied as ever. It is an extraordinary circumstance throughout Ame- rica, that every one is willing to part with his pro- perty, so that a person of capital may set himself down anywhere. Having left this kind person, I went onwards to Somerset. After living for some days on salted pork and salted shad, I was glad to hear some one in the inn give orders to kill a goose for the use of the company. Several other persons had preceded me in the bar-room, and I observed some individuals who PENNSYLVANIA. 113 :5 1 had lost an eye, and some wantinpf part of their nose, so that I now considered myself amon^ a new peo- ple, altliough they spoke Enj^lisli fluently. Louking out at the window, I observed a man bringing the goose, which he luid on a plank outride the hoUKP ; and, a woman of coJour having taken hold of the feet, he laid another board over its shoulders, to prevent the wings from flapping, and then decapita- ted the poor bird with one stroke of an axe. In a short time the dinner-bell rung, and wo, sat down to a hasty meal, in which, as usual, there was little ceremony and no conversation. It is very common among the Americans to belch much after eating heartily — and no wonder, for they literally gorge themselves. I think there is not so much substance in American victuals as in those of Dritain, however much our travellers and those Letters which are said to be written by persons in America may boast ; for I have often observed that I soon got hungry after partaking of a substantial meal. I am inclined to believe that most of the specious letters above al- luded to are fabrications got up by interested indi- viduals, as the farm-steadings and soil of which they speak so favourably can in no degree be compared with those of our own country. In passing by a mill, on a Saturday, it occurred to me to ask for lodgings from the miller, who rea- dily granted my request. He seemed to be in a thriving way, having different stones for grinding M'heat, rye, and Indian corn. A number of farmers were waiting their turn, some having a bushel and some more or less to grind. I observed that before the grain was put into the happer, the miller laid aside a tenth as the price for grinding or multure. No credit is allowed ; — the poor farmer has fre- quently to come a distance of twelve miles, over bad roads, with a bushel of grain on a horse's back at the k3 114 JOURNEY TO ■I if end of a week, to get it ground. I have seen no- thing yet very tempting in the life of a farmer. One day I came to a toll-place where there Tvas no gate, but in its stead a large stone ^ uspended by a rope from a beam across the road. I had often seen a portcullis before, but this was really ono of a novel fashion. Our waggoner, when we came up to this machine, bawled lustily to the toll-keeper, who, after detaining us till he found it convenient, received his dues, a tenpenny piece, and hauling the stone aside, permitted us to move on. In wending my way along these Alleghany moun- tains, which are not very lofty but rather undulating, as every part of the country I have yet seen i?, I found the roads very miserable. Indeed it is quite a pleasure to travel on foot in comparison with the cruel punishment of being compelled to ride. I fell in with a waggon loaded with lumber, that is, pieces of wood called clapboards, which are used for build- ing frame-houses. One of the steers had fallen, and the road being so narrow, it would have been no easy matter for any other vehicle to pass. One of the animaFs hoofs was nearly off', and the blood was oozing from it. The driver, a true Kentucky man with one eye, was swearing prodigiously, and apply- ing the lash to the poor beast most unmercifully. It made several attempts to rise, but was unsucces- ful ; upon which its master, (.ursing like a ruffian, unloosed the frame from its neck, and unyoking the other steer also, took out a clasp-knife, and seizing the lame one by the horns, hauled back its head, and drew the knife across its throat. He then separated the wind-pipe, and still haul- ing back the head till his knife reached the spine, he cut it through also, thus shewing himself a complete master in the art of butchery. He then set to work skinning it, as Major Dugald Dalgetty did his horse ; and having made a small hole, M'hich PENNSYLVANIA. 115 jen no- T. re was ded by d often Olio of aine np keeper, anient, ing the ' moun- ilating^, 'n i?, I is quite dth the I fell I, pieces r build- en, and een no One of >od was ky man apply, •cifully. isucces- rulTian, lyoking and d back throat. 1 haul- e spine, mself a le then algetty which he afterwards enlarged, I enquired the reason, and was answered that he would incur a fine if detected, unless the hole was a certain size. The steer was goon disembowelled and quartered, and the wag- gon-load taken off and piled on the way-side. The pieces of the carcase were then put into the waggon, the other steer being again yoked, and the vehicle drove on. These animals, I may remark, are very faithful, but are generally exceedingly ill-used by their savage masters. I went on to Greensburgh, meditating on the scene of brutality I had just witnessed, and thinking of the Man and the Dead Ass so pathetically de- scribed in the Sentimental Journey. The country here poor, sandy, stoney, and gravelly — nothing like what Chambers would lead one to suppose ; log and frame houses and whole farms apparently de- serted ; the Canadian thistle with its prickly blades thriving prodigiously. Going along, I observed a woman plucking the feathers from live geese, of which there might be about twenty in a pen — the process appeared to me to be very painful. When the old feathers are ta- ken off, the new ones are already formed. The woman told me that these birds shed their feathers every two months. An ordinary sized bed filled with the feathers of live geese rarely exceeds tiienty- four pounds weight ; and many of them are so soft, that I have sometimes fancied myself lying in water. Like the hogs and other animals in America, geese generally forage for their own victuals ; and in win- ter, the woman said, they frequently make their ap- pearance in the barn-yard, but never in summer. Probably they know that they shall be plucked when they come there ; and it is not easy to get hold of them when that operation is to be performed. In going forwards to Pittsburg, I fell in with what is called a tramp, that is, a tradesman in quest of employment. He was from Birmingham in Eng- • ) H 116 JOURNEY TO land, by profession a moulder of iron, and had been in the country more than two years. He had wrought in New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and also Boston, but could never get constant em- ployment ; and was now on his way to try Pittsburg, the Birmingham of America. Like myself, he had been induced to visit America from the flattering accounts given in certain books and newspapers, and was miserably disappointed. He had left a wife and family in England, intending, so soon as he saved any thing, to send for them to come out and join him ; but he was still as far from being able to do this as the first day he landed. What with the want of employment and living in board- ing-houses, he could hardly maintain himself ; and unless his wife could procure a sufficient sum to bring him home, there was little prospect of their ever meeting again on earth. This person was of great service to me, and took me through several of the founderies. He had got no employment when I left. Conversing with a founder, I asked him if the American iron was inferior to that of Britain, as I perceived by the tariff that 25 per cent, was charged on our pig-iron, and on the manufactured article 50 per cent. He said the British iron was superior ; and that none of the establishments generally in America could compete with those of Britain. The want of capital was one great drawback, and the fluctuating nature of the government another. When the presidency of Jackson is at an end, another will succeed, whose views may be diametrically opposite. Jackson, who exercises more despotic power than the King of Great Britain, when he first entered upon his presidentship, cashiered every person who held office under his predecessor down to the very culler of clap-boards. The gentleman who told me this (and I have heard it often confirmed) though PENNSYLVANIA. 117 an American, was kind and frank with me, and intro- duced me to various houses, where I had an oppor- tunity of witnessing the swinging on rocking chairs, spitting on the carpet, puffing away with cigars, and the genteel attitude of cocking up the feet higher than the head, of which I had only previously heard. I next proceeded to Wheeling, and crossing the Ohio, saw the famed Caushot Rapids, in which I could perceive no beauty. I fell in with a party of Mono- nites, religious zealots, who seem to hold rather Quixotic opinions on several subjects, one of which is the doctrine of propagating their species in com- mon. They had come from Boston, New England, and were journeying to Indiana, their promised land, and which they firmly believe they shall one day in- herit. Three two-steer waggons were employed to convey the party, consisting of three families with fourteen children, and their scanty luggage ; and several cows followed in their train. As I \iished to .-see Birkbeck's Settlement, M'ith the view of judging whether it would suit me as a place of emigration, I joined the groupe, and kept company with them for two days. As I did not come to America to make proselytes, I thought it unnecessary to combat any of their opinions, and have little doubt, before I left, that they set me down for a convert. They were very intelligent people, and exceedingly kind to me. Having reached Illinois, I learned that Birkbeck, notwithstanding the plausible statements in his Letters, had lived to see a capital of d£' 15,000, which he brought out with him, completely exhausted, and that some of his family were now obliged to hire themselves out as " helps," a phrase used instead of the dreaded name of servants, though I could see little difference between the two conditions. The prairie lands, about which he Myites so much and so well, are certainly fertile ; but the wild grass mi I 118 JOURNEY TO which grows upon them is too tou^h for tame ani- mals to browse upon. It resembles " gardener's garters (" and when it takes fire, as is the case oc- casionally, the burnt ashes serve to fertilize the soil for several seasons. The prairies all appear to have been originally the bed of a lake, and are still liable to inundation, whereby the crops are entirely des- troyed. A person who treated me kindly told me that, however deep you dig into the soil, you still meet with the roots of the natural grass, which it is impossible to extirpate. This grass aifords an ex- cellent shelter for snakes and other noxious reptiles, which abound in the whole of America, particularly in the Western Territory. Indeed, were it not for the occasional burnings that take place, all the hogs in the world would not be able to keep them under, they are so prolific. Throughout nearly all the Western Territory, there are joint-stock hog socie- ties, for the purpose of rearing these animals, and turning them adrift at a certain age to ramble among the woods, and grub up the reptiles, of which they are very fond. Even the rattle-snake has no chance with them, for I have seen a hog snap one up, and divide it in two very eawly. Another draw- back in these prairie soils and alluvial flats is, that a disease gets in among the wheat, rye, and Indian corn, which is distinguished by a few of the pickles at the top appearing of a reddish colour, and is so noxious that the very hogs refuse to eat of it, even though mixed with other grain. This is a sickly country, as may be evidenced by the pale emaciated countenances you meet with ; fever and ague work their way at a great rate, especially among the emi- grants. I had an opportunity of observing how readily these prairies are overflowed by the rains, which de- scend here absolutely in torrents. During a deluge of this description, I happened to be travelling in PENNSYLVANIA. 119 ne ani- dener's !ase oc- bhe soil :o have il liable }\y des- old me ou still ich it is an ex- reptiles, icularly not for he hogs I under, all the >g socie- als, and ramble f which has no nap one r draw- is, that Indian pickles id is so it, even sickly laciated le work he emi- readily lich de- deluge lling in one of these flats or bottom-lands as they are called, accompanied by a man of colour, who was shewing me the way. He had an Indian blanket, which he wrapped about him so soon as the storm began, put- ting his head through a hole in the centre, and the rain ran off him as it would have done from a tent. I had only an umbrella, which proved quite useless, lor in one minute I was as thoroughly drenched as if I had been ducked in the Ohio. In a short time the whole country, as far as my vision reached, was one complete lake, to the depth of several inches. The sun, however, soon broke forth again with excessive heat, raising a hot vapour of such density that we could not see a yard before us, and the water was soon dried up. These exhalations are the primary cause of the fever and ague so pre- valent. Every thing in nature is properly adapted to the purpose intended. If this were a clayey instead of a sandy soil, these heavy rains, followed by a scorch- ing sun, would literally bake the earth like a brick, and render it quite barren. I may also mention that the coal, which is very scarce, remains a long time in combustion by reason of its hardness ; but it would not burn in an open grate such as we use. I this day saw a beef, as the oxen are Called, run- ning in an inclosed field at a great rate, and rub- bing its head and ears against the stumps of trees and rails, seemingly in great agony. It had got what is called tlie ear-distemper, which is occasioned by a certain insect crawling into the internal ear and depositing its eggs. We dared not approach it till we saw it fall down — it was quite dead ; the outer- ear was entirely rubbed ofF, and the skull appeared. Went on to Bainbridge, and from thence to Cin- cinnati. At this latter place, I visited Mrs Trol- lope's Bazaar, or Folly as it is called. In the bar- toom of an inn I met a deserter from the army in 120 JOURNEY TO I, Canada. A number of one-eyed people beinj^ pre- sent, I put the question to him privately how it happened that so many persons here were deficient of an eye, an ear, or part of the nose. " And do you not know the reason .''" said he ; " the Kentucky men are regular Lancasterians, but far more savage ; biting, bullocking, and gouging, are common among them. If you get into a quarrel, beware of your eyes, your ears, and your nose, and be sure to keep at arms-length from them, with one foot in advance l)repared for action." This person drove a team, and was very kind to me, giving me much infor- mation about the country and the people. He too wished he were once more at home ; but the die was cast for him, as he said sorrowfully. The climate here is very sickly, the Ohio often overflowing the lower parts of the town. Tiiis mighty river will soon separate America into two divisions, if it does not do so already. It may be called the leading thoroughfare of America ; only, in choosing this route, you must either make your entrance or exit by New Orleans, the sandy swamps of which are so noxious that they may be likened to the gates of death, — at all events, they lead to imbecility of mind, of which numerous examples are to be found. Indeed, a relation of mine told me that, were it not for the apprehension of this latter calamity, he would not be afraid to risk his bodily health, as he could realize a fortune in a very short time. Cincinnati, though but of modern date, is very populous, being the great storehouse for all the pro- duce of the Western States, including likewise even Upper Canada, as the Ohio reaches within about 20 miles of Lake Erie, to which it is about to be con- nected by a canal. In regard to New Orleans, were it not for the unwholesome climate, it would soon eclipse Nov^ ittwnM CINCINNATI. 121 ; prc- DW it Scient nd tl« itucky vage ; wnong f your [) keep ivance team, infor- tle too lie was York. This latter place, by means of the Hudson, might have been said, not long ago, to divide Ame- rica in two ; but that river is now rapidly filling up from the sandy alluvial deposits, so that ships of burden cannot get up to Albany. This disadvan- tage, however, is in a great measure compensated by the Western Canal, which connects the two cities, and joins Lake Erie. o often This ito two may be only, ke your swamps likened lead to iples are Itold me lis latter bodily iy short is very Ithe pro- mise even ibout 20 ibe con- for the )se Ne»v 122 CHAP. IV. BOCTE FBOM CINCINNATI TO SANDY-HILL AND LUCERNE. Being now fully convinced, from what 1 had seen of the country, that I could not improve my condi- tion by remaining, I made up my mind to return to pour Scotland, as it is called, and leave all the good tilings to the Americans themselves, and to our liberal travellers, and to designing and unprincipled persons of various descriptions, such as ship-owners, skippers, land-speculators, and all those whose sel- fishness induce them for gain to involve in distress and difficulty, and indeed often in ruin, many of their countrymen. It is a singular circumstance, that those persons who praise America so much take good care not to settle there themselves ; and if this very fact were properly weighed at home, it would convince people that there is something about it rot- ten and deceptive. But I am sorry to say that this is seldom thought of till too late ; we are too apt to believe what is plausible and flattering, and re- ject what is sound, reasonable, and dispassionate, and thus fall an easy prey to those who have no in- terest beyond getting the passage-money, fleecing you in New York, or selling you their land at double its real value. I have also found it to be a very general practice here for persons to act as decoy-birds, by inducing others to join them, with the view of meliorating their own condition, and having companions in their sufferings, or, if they have land, of getting it advantageously sold*-a newly arrived emigrant falls an easy prey to such characters. 4 ROrTV TO SANDY-MILL. 123 this )0 apt ad re- Dnate, no in- ecing nd at be a ,ct as with and they ►Id — a such i Much has been said by Mr Stuart, and some other travellers, about the good things that are to be had in America ; but for my part, I have not yet got either a draught of good water, a glass of good whisky, brandy, ale, or spirits generally, or even a cup of good tea, so that I may say I have not been so fortunate as these gentlemen. It is very easy, however, for the like of Mr Stuart to go dashing through the country, and paying for the best thi; inns can afford, and then to write, after an after- noon^s jollification, a luminous and flaming account in his journal ; but to a person who travels upon the fruits of his industry, the reality fails to pro- duce the results exhibited to Mr Stuart^s fertile ima- gination. As my thoughts recurred to the pleasing recollec- tion of home, I felt as if a load had been removed from my mind. My purse by this time was getting light, and I knew not how to replenish it if once exhausted. I left Cincinnati, the great emporium of the west, purposing to make the best of my way to Montreal. With joy and humility I thought on the kindness of providence in protecting me thus far in this my voyage of discovery. America had long been the object of my idolatry ; its beautiftil forests, its rich soil, the social manners of its inhabitants, the free* dom of its institutions, and the absence of taxation, had long taken possession of my fancy. But the reality has dispelled all these pleasing illusions — I find it to be a fit place for the destitute, and for swindlers and bankrupts of all kinds ; there is room enough for the hermit and the cynic ; out as to those simple persons who expect the pleasures de- scribed in our travellers' pages, and who are doomed to be disappointed, I recommend them to stay at home, and shall be gratified if my advice is taken. l2 124 nOUTE TO SANDY-HILL. I went on to Falmouth in company with my late ac(iuaintance, the deserter from Canada. As he had to travel my way for 60 miles, he offered me a drive in his waggon, which I accepted. I asked him if it would not be better to return to his regi- ment than to dwell among these one-eyed savages, and if he was not afraid of them ; to which he re- plied contemptuously, " No, for I could thrash a dozen of them. I would willingly return to my regiment if I were not ashamed." I observed in a bar-room here a fly-trap of an ingenious construction. It consisted of two flat boards, suspended by a string from the ceiling, and kept separate by means of a stick. The boards are moistened with a mixture of molasses and water^ upon which the wings of the fly get entangled, and it is held fast. As soon as a sufficient number is caught, the stick which keeps the boards asunder is removed, and they meet together with a clap, crush- ing the insects to death. The person who had charge of the operation seemed to have plenty of employ- ment ; indeed the flies are so numerous every- where, that I doubt whether even Unci? Toby himself would have said there was room enough in this country for both him and them. 1 observe that, like their own mocking-bird, the Americans, in al- most all their operations, act upon the principle of imitation. If the reader could fancy an alligator in some sandy swamp, with his jaws widely extended to receive his prey, and shutting his mouth so soon as a sufficient quantity is caught, he would have a good notion of this fly-trap. We rested our horses at a village on our route ; and a court being about to be held in a '' home," as the sign-post bore, I went to hear the proceedings. The pursuer, a Major Jones, had taken a farm on shares, the proprietor being bound to furnish him with seeds, agricultural implements, cattle, geese, i KOVTB TO SANDY-ntLt. 125 hogs, and one hone— the half of the profits to go to the landlord in name of rent, and the stock to be re- turned at the end of the lease in as good condition as at the period of entry. The major, however, had sold some grain, for which he did not accoimt, also two queys and some sheep ; several of the agri- cultural implements had likewise disappeared, and a steer was killed for the use of his family. The landlord, finding he had got a bad tenant, desired him to quit the premises, else he would take the law of him ; and the major took the hint, and ** cleared out,'' carrying with him every thing he had a right to, and something more. Notwithstanding, he rais- ed the present action against his lai^dlord, conclud- ing for thirty dollars damages, on the ground of his not having got sufficient warning. The court was held in the evening. The judge sat at a com- mon table in his shirt sleeves, and his waistcoat un- buttoned, the night being excessively warm. A copy of the American Statutes lay before him ; and several other persons were ranged around, their coats taken off also, and paper placed before some of them to take notes. A jury of eleven was chosen, who were placed together on a form at one side of the apartment ; the parties, witnesses, and on-lookers, either sitting on forms or standing on the floor. The defender had three pettifoggers besides himself, and the major four. These functionaries, who are not lawyers (for anybody may pettifog in America, and you will get men to do this duty for you for a quarter-dollar) were extremely active and abusive. One of them stated the case for the pursuer, the de- fender's counsel taking notes, and was answered by one of the latter, the pursuer's counsel in like man- ner taking notes of the defence. Witnesses were then called in and sworn, which ceremony was perform- ed by kissing the Book of Statutes mentioned l3 126 ROUTE TO SAKDY-HILl. above ; and during their examination much wrang- ling and cross-examining took place among the petti- foggers, who seemed to bother both judge and jury, and to render what was a clear case as confused and mysterious as possible. While this was going on, I observed some of the jury fast asleep, others with their legs crossed swinging as if they were on a rocking chair, their feet being raised up as high as their heads, and others lying extended on the benches ; while the abominable system of spitting went on till the whole floor was bedaubed. The adjoining bar-room was full of people singing, swear- ing, fighting, and talking blasphemy ; and so great was the noise they made, that the examination of witnesses had frequently to bo stopped, as it was im- possible to hear what was said. The witnesses were all present at each other's examination. The case was not finished till two in the morning, ^vhen the judge, addressing the jury, the greater part of whom were now aw'ake, shortly pointed out the law of the case. The jury then withdrew to another apart- ment to deliberate ; during which interval the judge and the parties, along with the pettifoggers and wit- nesses, adjourned to the bar-room to get some drink, and mutually treated each other. Many bets were laid as to what decision the jury would come to, and the noise and uproar thus created were tremendous. About five in the morning the jury returned a written verdict, which was read by their foreman, to the efltect that, the major having been turned out of the farm without due legal steps being taken, he was entitled to fifteen dollars damages. The defender protested, with the view of carrying the case to a higher tribunal. A match at rifle-shooting being about to take place next day, I resolved to attend it. A person having carried a large pumpkin to the top of one of those undulating mounds so common in America, the fan«M>» ROUTE TO 8AN0Y-HILL. 127 rlflemon, fifteen in number, none of them having uniforms, were stationed in a line about t>venty paces from each other, and about fifty from the pump- kin ; and as it rolled down the hill, each man fired an it came op^xisite to him. Down came the pump- kin, and pop, pop, pop \\ int the rifles. " My bullet is through the very core,' cried one ; and the whole party having run to examine, not a bullet M'as found to have even grazed it, far less to have penetrated it. It was damaged by the trundling, but not other- wise. The game was renewed three times, but always with the same unsuccessful results. While tliis was going on, I heard a man say to his neigh- bour, ** I wish we had war with England ; how we would do them !'' This was said aloud in order that I might hear it ; but I only smiled, and left them.-— I parted here with my kind countryman who had come from Canada. One day, as I was strolling along thinking on Mon- treal, and reckoning how many days must elapse be- fore I could reach it, I observed a worm, black as a snail, about six inches long, and thicker than my thumb. I turned it on its back with my stick, and saw it had two rows of feet like our caterpillar, but longer and more numerous. A person coming up in a waggon told me it is called the " worm with a thousand feet,^^ as poisonous a reptile as is to be found in America, and that I ought to take good heed to it. I said that if it was so dangerous I had better kill it, which I accordingly did by casting a stone at it. This person offered me a drive in his waggon so far as our roads lay, which I gratefully accepted. I asked him if the hogs could eat such an animal as I had just killed without injury ; and he answered that they could, adding that they were extremely useful creatures. At a small village of wooden houses which lay in my route, I happened to witness a militia muster^ 1 'W'^ l|l:^ 128 ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL. Every man in America betwixt the ages of 18 and 45 must be enrolled, under a penalty, in the militia list ; he is bound when called on to attend muster, to pro- vide himself with a gun of some sort or other, in- cluding bayonet, cartridge-box, belts, and other equip- ments, which are regularly inspected. The muster took place in a cleared sandy common, in which nu- merous booths and tents were erected for the sale of liquor. The officers wore a blue uniform faced with yellow. The men amounted to about three hun- dred—they had no uniform — neither was any regu- larity observed either as respected the size of the individuals, the shape or length of their guns, or any thing else ; in short there was nothing uniform about them except their bad conduct. FalstaflTs ragged recruits were gentlemen compared with them. A great many were minus an eye, some wanting an ear, and others with their noses docked, thereby proving that they had seen some sort of service, and " shewing their cuts and scars wherever they camt ""^ Some were well-dressed, others with their garments hanging in tatters ; some had boots or shoes, others had none at all; some had hats, some caps, and some nothing but their bare heads ; some had re- spectable-looking and showy rifles, others miserable pop-guns. No order or discipline of any kind was observed, every one considering himself perfectly free, and not even forming into lines till the muster was regularly called. General Washington must have had a great deal to do with such forces as these ; and there is no wonder he ordered so many to be hanged in order to intimidate the rest. This small squad seemed perfectly unmanageable. As I went along the lines (I should rather say groups, for it could hardly be called lines where some were facing in- wards anc! some outwards) casting a sly look, I oc- casionally heard some of them reiterate the senti- ment formerly remarked^ <* I wish we had war with ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL, 129 and ents lothers and d re- erable d was free, ;r was have ; and langed I squad I along could igin- I oc- 1 senti- the English ;''^ and one even presented his gun at me in jest, and drew the trigger, which occasioned loud laughter among his associates. I paid no heed, how- ever, to all this rudeness. With much ado they were at length mustered, the accoutrements inspect- ed, and the absent marked — to be afterwards brought before a court-martial, where, if they could not give a proper reason for their non-attendance, a fine would be levied, varying in amount from two to five dol- lars, failing which, to be imprisoned. The muster was soon over ; and the more serious business of drinking, as I may say, commenced. Having left the field, and returned to my home, by and bye the bar-room began to fill, and it was no- thing but who should treat each other with liquor ; the noise and laughter were very disagreeable, and I would have fain left the place had I known M'here else to go to. Having squeezed myself into a recess at the window, where I pretended to take no notice of what was going on, an officer came strutting in, and throwing off his belt and sword, coolly deposi- ted them between my knees, the hilt of the sword leaning against the window. He gave me the steady American snake-look, which I returned ; and then retired towards the bar with several others, whom he treated with liquor, occasionally casting a sly glance at me, which I did not think it necessary to under- stand. A person having sat down beside me and begun a conversation about our British militia, the sword being still between my knees, I inadvertently drew it a little way out of the scabbard, and began to feel the blade with my thumb. The owner ob- serving me came up and asked me in a bullying tone whether I knew the use of the weapon. " I guess I do,"" was my reply. " Did you ever use it ?'' " I guess I havs,'- returning his snake- like look. " Can you use it ?" *' I can try." *' I guess I can procure another,"' said he ; " — here it is — draw, and kt us have a trial.'' r 1 I. I 130 ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL. m I arose from my seat, and advanced into the middle of the room with the drawn sword in my hand, keeping my antagonist in front, his weapon also drawn. The company formed a circle around. I stretched myself to my greatest height to prove whether there was any danger of my striking the ceiling, and found I could not reach it. I then stretched out my arm on either side to see what space I had for action, bidding the spectators mind themselves. My back was to the light, which was a great advantage. Addressing the crowd, I said, *' When I was a young man, being in London for the first time, I was once insulted, as I have been here, on acoouni; of my being a Scotchman. I there found many to take my part ; it was in a public- house, but not such a one as this. I am now chal- lenged because I am suspected of being a Briton ; I am so, and I glory in the name. There are few na- tions which do not respect Britain ; and though I am among strangers, I do not doubt but I shall have justice/^ Turning to my opponent, I said, ** It is a long time since I exercised with this wea- pon, while you have been practising this very day ; do you therefore begin the attack, and I shall de- fend myself to the best of my ability." He accord- ingly struck and thrust at me, keeping his snake-like lynx-eye steadily fixed on mine. He was a good fencer, and as I parried his strokes and thrusts, and kept smiling at him all the while, he got angry. The day was warm, and both of us were soon perspiring at every pore ; not a word was spoken, and no noise heard except the clang of the weapons. After he was fairly exhausted, my opponent proposed that we should rest a little, to which I gladly sa ^^ted ; and we accordingly threw off our coats anu bdt down. Returning to the charge, I said, '* You have had the hardest part to perform, and have done your best to get a hit at me ; I will ease you of half your ROUTE TO SANDY-HILI . 131 )iring noise ter he hat we and down, ■^e had labour ; it will now be attack and defend. Come on, then — Englishmen generally give warning— take care of yourself, and let the word be England or America.*" As he raised his weapon to parry my attack, his arm was seized by some one, and several persons rushing in between us, our swords were laid hold of and carried away. I was led in tri- umph to the bar, every one offering to treat me with drink, and cordially shaking hands with the Scotchman, my late antagonist joining heartily in these courtesies. I am certain if I could have drunk gallons, I had the offer. Dancing and singing then commenced. I was forced to sing several Scotch songs ; and had not our hosf s stock of liquor been exhausted — a very common occurrence in country homes, — I know not when we should have ended. I considered that I had reason to congratulate my« self that I had learned the sword-exercise in my youth on board a British man-of-war, having served as a boarder in a ship commanded by a Captain Haw- kins. Our teacher was a squint-eyed Frenchman, who owed us no good-will ; and when we failed to guard off the coming stroke, he took care to let it descend upon us with vigour. There was no mis- take with him, for he hated us cordially ; nor had I any mercy shewn me till I was able to keep my own with him, after which time he gave up exercising with me. I have not yet forgot the lesson I learned in my youth, and therefore felt no fear to cope with the proud Yankee whom I recently encountered. I left the place next day, against the wishes of many, who urged me to remain scrnie time. I took the road for Easton, New Jersey, musing on my late adventure ; and as I passed some deserted farms overgrown with Canadian thistles, I could not help thinking that those settlers who had been decoyed into this country resembled the poor bird caught on the lime-twig, which, when it finds its I : i !^J 132 BOUTE TO SANDY-HILL. feet made fast, flutters its wings till they too get entangled, and it is caught. I have seen no game yet, and only one fox, nor have I heard any bird of song. The screaming of the blue-jay and the tapping of the woodpecker are all the music of this description I have heard ; and lonesome sounds they are among the dreary wilds of America. Dreary and lonesome as the country is, one may occasionally get something to amuse. I this day met a party of Shaking Quakers, men, women, and children, from Connecticut, and bound for Illinois. It is in the New England States principally that enthusiasm springs up ; and as the Americans gene- rally are a migratory people, these puritans, when- ever their numbers increase to a certain amount in any place, emigrate to some other district. This propensity is called by some " the fever ;"" and at the period \ am writing of, the Michigan fever was at its height, many parties having passed me on their road thitherward — a thousand miles in pros- pect seem nothing to an American. The creed of the Shaking Quakers is, that no man who loves his species will encourage its propagation ; fools may do so, but a wise and good man will not, as the world is so wicked, and misery so abounding. Therefore they renounce the world and its customs, and will have no sexual intercouse. They are per- suaded, when their opinions shall prevail, which they are confident will soon happen, that the human race will die out — a proposition which nobody will dis- pute. I partook with them of a dish of spawn, that is, ground Indian corn boiled as thick as our pori'idge, and taken with sweet milk. I found some of these people intelligent on many subjects ;— they travel in waggons, and bivouack at night as our gypsies do, the men and women however being kept separate. ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL. 133 get nor ig of r are and Ids of 5 may s day 1, and linois. ^ that I gene- when- )unt in This and at rer was I me on II pros- reed of ves his Is may as the imding. ustoms, ire per- ch they an race iU dis- spawn, as our id some ; — ^they as our ig kept ■■:-f ■'"a li In the praii'ips or bottom lands, and on the flats along the margins of rivers, you will not find a sin- gle pebble the size of a wren's egg ; while on the undulating sandy mounds you will scarcely see any thing else hut stones, there being hardly any soil in many places. Conversing with an industrious far- mer who occupied land in one of these latter situ- ations, and who had built fences composed of rolled stones fully six feet high, the base being about the same breadth, and narrowed towards the top ti the dimensions of a single stone — I asked him where he had procured all this immense quantity of materials ; and he replied that he got the whole from off his fields, which still appeared as full of stones as ever. He had many more gathered up in heaps ; and I was told that though the whole should be removed, they would be as numerous as ever next season, for that the heavy rains wash off the soil, leaving exposed the stones which are beneath the surface. Crossing the Delaware, I went on to Philips- burg. On the continent of Europe one is occasion- ally put to the inconvenience of exhibiting his pass- port to official persons ; but in America every body seems to assume that right. I had here to answer questions put to me I daresay for the thousandth time; so that I really began to think J should have to adopt the plan of Franklin, who proposed lo have attached, both to his breast and back, a la- bel containing his name, the place he had come from, and whither he was going, that every one he met might read it, and save himself the trouble of put- ting the questions. I have been interrogated in this manner by a juvenile republican not more than twelve years of age. The person, however, who thus annoyed me on the present occasion, made some amends by offering to take me to see a funeral. We accordingly went to a large wooden house with M 13i UOUTE TO SANDY-HILL. a viranda in front of the door, before which a num- ber of waggons, some drawn by horses and some by steers, and saddle-horses for equestrians, were drawn up. In the middle of the floor in the house lay a red-stained coffin on traces, covered with a white sheet. Boards were laid across the room for the company to sit upon ; men and women sat promis- cuously in profound silence. A clergyman rose up and read a few verses appropriate to the occasion from Wesley's Collection of Hymns, which were afterwards sung to a lively air by the company, led by a person who had a good voice, and who beat time with his two fore-fingers. The clergj^man then delivered a suitable discourse, after which he gave out some more verses from the hymns, and con- cluded the service by a prayer. He went through the devotions with solemnity, yet with a degree of cheerfulness and good sense, and being delivered orally, the effect produced upon me was greater than the written burial service of the Church of England, though couched in more beautiful language. The company, men and women, now rose and left the house. The coffin, which, like the one I formerly described, had no mountings nor cords to lower it down, was also brought out, and laid on traces at. the door ; the lid being opened about the middle of the breast, and folded back by the hinges. The face of the deceased was uncovered, and we all came forward to look at it ; it appeared to be that of a stout middle-aged man. The company were very promiscuously dressed — the men in black, blue, brown, or grey — the women in black with black bonnets and ribbons, or in white, with T^'hite Btraw-bonnets and white ribbons, and some in brown stuff gowns with cottage bonnets, such as our country girls wear. Though the assemblage was very nu- merous, the utmost decorum prevailed^— no driuldDg, ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL. 135 and )ne I rds to ^id on it the linges. id we to be ImpaBy black, with white brown Country ^ry nu- hnking) not even cider being giren. The procession was led by a waggon containing the coffin, and in which the grave-diggers sat; then followed the relations in another waggon ; next the rest of the company promisciionsly, also in waggons, of which I counted thirty-three altogether, the equestrians and some pe- destrians bringing up the rear. We halted at a frame-wood built church on the road-side, which had a decent appearance, though it was neither white painted, nor had any carved ornaments upon it, as many similar churches in America have. Here the coffin was taken out and brought into the church ; the company seating themselves at each side of a plain platform, the men on the right and the women on the left, except the relations, who sat promis- cuously and nearest the platform. A chair was placed upon this elevation, where the clergyman sat with a bible in his hand, as there was neither desk nor table to lay it on. He rose and gave out an- other of Wesley's Hymns, which was sung in parts to the lively air of " John, come kiss me now."" He then read a portion of scripture, and delivered an excellent exhortation, concluding with a prayer ; after which another hymn was sung. After a few words addressed in a feeling and sympathising tone to the relations, the coffin was carried out to the door, and the folding lid again opened, that all who chose might have a last look of the deceased per- son. The lid was then fastened down, and two rough spars having been procured from a worm- fence near at hand, the coffin was placed upon these, and carried by four men across the road to the cor- ner of a field appropriated as a grave-yard, the fence around which was in a sad state of decay. The grave was in a fine sandy soil, without a pebble to be seen, and was very deep. Two ropes* were placed under the coffin, as is sometimes the case with us m2 136 KOUTE TO SANDY-HILIi. I when the grave is deep or the corpse heavy, and \i was lowered down. The sand was soon shovelled in, and a frame put over the grave to prevent cattle irom treading upon it, or the hogs from tearing it up. I observed some of the graves here had a wooden board stuck up at the head, some a marble slab, and others nothing to distinguish them. I no- ted down several epitaphs, of which there was a great variety, some of them ridiculous enough, and even savouring of scepticism. I subjoin two spe- cimens :— Sacred to the Memory of Gerrin Sniddikek ;. If there be another world,. He lives in bliss ; If there be none, He made the most of this* Sacred to the Memory of John Aldridoe. When sudden death Calls to wound, The living tremble At the sound. The fate of John Verges fair That we ought all For death prepare. The spelling in some cases was very different from ours ; but, as I have shown before, it is we that are the bad spellers, and not the Americans. At the entrance to the grave-yard I took leave of my kind friend — for he had treated me with great kindness — reflecting as I went along that there are both good and bad people in America, and that it is generally but the worst of my countrymen who go thither. I had been assured by my late companion that all is not gold that glitters in America, and K ■ l^lMIMIWWl noUTE TO SANDY-HILL. 137 was now satisfied. I was getting nearer and nearer home. As the sun was getting low in the horizon, I tapped at the door of a log-house, and a voice from within said, " Come in." This is the usual way with the people in America, at least in the country ; the doors, I suppose, are never locked night nor day, which reminded me often of these beautiful lines of Goldsmith : t from e that " No store beneath the humble thatch Employed a master's care. The door just opening with a latch," &c. only that the word thatch is not exactly appro- priate, as I never saw any of the houses covered with that material, though I have seen them covered M'ith tin. This was not a home, nor a hotel, but a farmer''s house, which I liked much better, and where I was made welcome. My mind did nevei accord with eating and drinking in public. Two young women were washing, the one rubbing the clothes on a grooved board, rnd the other standing over a barrel, and working at them in a manner similar to our old-fashioned method of churning milk, or as we sometimes chop potatoes. I may say that every farmer makes his own soap and candles ; the ashes from the burnt wood are carefully preserved and put into a square box, narrow at the bottom and wide at the top. Water is poured on the ashes, and as it filters througli, it forms a ley which is boiled, adding grease to it, and evaporating the water till it forms some consistence; the soap is as black as maple sugar. It is needless to mention the furniture of a farmer's house, for it is very simple ; yet I have seen chests of drawers M'ith crystal handles, and lamps made of glass in place of tin, which are very M 3 138 ROUTE TO SANDY-HItr.. convenient, as they have no shadow. The farmers rarely study the luxuries of life ; indeed they cannot afford or easily procure these, and seldom even the necessaries. I have often admired their ingenuity in many things, and an;ong others, in that of draw- ing water. Having dug a well, they erect a tri- angle and hang a tree to the top of it ; a rope is fastened to the taper-end, and the pail or pitcher attached. The tree is so balanced that the heavy end by its weight raises the pitcher when filled, so that the person has only to guide it from striking the side of the well, and when the pitcher reaches the brim, the heavy end of the tiee rests on the ground. 1 pursued my route to Tappan ; saw many graz- ing farms, most of the occupants Dutch settlers, who still continue to speak the language ; many of the towns and mountains are still called by Dutcii names, such as Kattskill, Kattskill Mountains, or He-Cat's Mountains. Saw in some flats flax grow- ing of a good quality. I was glad when I once more came in sight of the Hudson, the great thoroughfare to British Ame- rica, as I considered my toils nearly over. The hills, which sometimes verge on each side of the river, are called the back-bone of America ; and though they are generally barren, good farms are to be found in some of the vallies, but none like those in Britain. I crossed the Hudson to White Plains, celebra- ted during the War of Independence. This seems to bo the classic ground of America. Went and saw Sing-Sing, the state prison of New York. Men were hewing stones, some rolling them in a wheel-barrow, with a chain attached, in some in- stances, from their leg to a stone, which they lifted into the barrow as they wheeled it about. At whatever employment the men happened to be, they never looked at me, which made me think the discipline must be very severe, when an American hmm.. I J' 1^ ixtmmm ROUTE TO SANDY-HILt. 139 rht of Ame- hills, |er, are they fund ill itain. selebra- seems int and York, in a can give over the habit of staring. They M'ere nu- merously attended with overseers and sokliers. Ex- amined the interior of the prison ; it was kept very clean. Spoke to some of the soldiers and overseers, but learned nothing from them ; a person might us M'ell examine our bridewells with a magistrate's order, and expect to learn any thing about them, aa pay a vi^it to Sing- Sing in order to describe it. You must be an inmate for a considerable time be- fore you know any thing about the matter. I had the advantage of learning something, how- ever, from the work of Colonel Levi Burr, who was confined there for perjury. A person could hardly believe that, among a people who have free- dom forever on the tip of their tongue, such ty- ranny and brutality existed. I have seen American captains in the merchant service strike the seamen unmercifully ; nay, I once saw a ships-cook stript and tied to the main-rigging, and flogged for not having the dinner ready at twelve oVlock, the se- cond mate acting the part of boatswain''s mate. — The prisoners here, if they look at any visitor M'hen at their employment, are sometimes stript and Hogged se\'erely at the keeper''s pleasure ; no speak- ing is allowed ; the food is bad and scanty. The least offence is punished by a beating with a cudgel ; in the morning, when they are ordered from their cells or their meals, they are formed into rank, and should any of them not take the step at once as they fall in, they are beaten ; if they look sulky they are beaten ; there is no reasoning with them — the cat-o''-nine tails is the argument. I went into Connecticut, as far as Danbury ; saw some farms seemingly deserted. Returned to Putnam, so ciiUed after General Putnam ; saw a large piece of rock called Putnam's Rock, which it is said he and his soldiers rolled into the Hudson from the adjacent hills. It is said that vessels of * ! 1 i 140 ROUTE TO SANDY-HIIL. considerable burden can sail under it, and that tho land and it are several feet above the high-water mark. While lyinp^ here, he kept his men rolling stones into the Hudson to block it up, in order to prevent our ships from getting up to Albany. The place was pointed out to me, in a sneering manner, where the vessel lay at anchor waiting for the spy Major Andre's return, and a^so where Major Andre and General Arnold met. The speaker thought he had a fine plea against me ; but I upheld my country, as having only done her duty, and said it was an advantage to us that we had lost America. I found in every bar-room some one ready to point out any situation in which the Americans had been suc- cessful over the British. Went to see the military academy at West Point ; it is a wooden building, painted white. Observed several groups of American cadets practising at the rifle ; duelling, I learned, was very common among these young gentlemen. Saw the fort where the American general Arnold lay, and which he, for a stipulated sum, was to have betrayed into the hands of the British. It is now in ruins ; a few mounds of sand, which are fast wasting away, being the only relic to be seen. Saw where Major Andre was hanged, and where he was buried at Rockland. His bones were exhumed sometime ago, and brought to England. One would think that the boasting American, when he is describing any event to mortify a stranger, looks at you as if he wished to see your passions rising in your countenance. I however never quailed beneath their stare, having besides generally found myself as well informed about the stratagems r ^ed by both parties as any of them ; and I always maintain- ed that it was our own deserters who fought so despe- rately, for they fought with ropes about their necks. This observation they seemed to feel acutely. Put- ROUTE TO lANDY-HILL. 141 I, when jranger, kssions Iqvmiled found ^ed by lintain- |o despe- necks. rut- nam^s house is also a wooden one ; a light-house is jjlaced on West Point beside it. This is a barren, sandy, stoney, undulatinpf coun- try, M'here a regular army, were it ever so efficient, could have no chance, especially if clothed in red. The townships of Warwick and Goshen contain some large tracts of what are called drowned lands, on which some good flax is occasionally raised ; but they are sometimes overflowed with M'ater, and the crop entirely buried under the fresh alluvial soil. The ague and fits were very prevalent here at the time I passed through ; water very bad. I went on through Milton to NeM'burgh ; crossed the Hudson in a horse-ferry-boat to Poughkeipsee ; saw in a hotel " Edinborg ale,'"* called for a bottle, the charge for which was two shillings and sixpence— if was poor stuff*. The trees seem all to be of 'Jt stunted growth. In going to Athens, I passed a large cranberry marsh. As I wished something to eat, I entered a barroom, and looking out at the window, saw a ragged American coming towards the house with a sheep on his back ; its legs were not tied. He laid it down, and seating himself on the stump of a tree, cried to a white-haired ragged boy to bring him the butcher's knife, (all the children I have seen yet are white-headed, some of their hair seemingly almost as strong as horses'* hair). The man sat with the sheep's head resting on his knee, and bending it back as far as he could, cut the throat across, and separated the head from the body almost in an instant; it was dreadfully convulsed for a few seconds. Be- fore the creature was cold, some of it was cut up, and fried for the use of myself and some others ; but I could scarcely eat it, and though very tired of salt pork, salted shad, and other fish, I preferred them. As the Hudson seems to be fast filling up, most (vf the craft that trade between New York and Al- bany are flat-bottomed, rarely drawing more than > i^i" MMWiMv'uulM^.. 142 ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL. J' ' W ' four feet water. The steam-boats are also flat-bot- tomed, and are very large ; they have two boilers and two funnels ; the walking-beam is high up be- tween the funnels ; the boilers and the engine are on deck, and if the boiler burst, which it frequently does, the havoc is terrible. The vessel generally consumes thirty-six cords of wood during the voyage from New York to Albany ; pine-wood is the kind that is used, and from the great consumption by steam, it will soon be a scarce article in America. I went into Albany ; the country between Athens and it is generally flat, undulating, barren, and sandy ; water bad. Albany is a low lying place generally, and is built chiefly of wood, a few houses being of stone, and some brick ; it is 145 miles from New York, and the tide reaches within a few miles of it. The steam-boats generally make the passage in thirteen hours. Like most of the Ame- rican towns situated on the banks of rivers, Albany is frequently inundated with water, and the people who arrive in steam-boats have sometimes to be taken in from the boats at the second floor, As it is a great mart for lumber, when these floods come on, which they do suddenly, they often cause a great loss of property by sweeping it away. When sailing on the Hudson, and looking towards the town, you would think it lies lower than the river. The synod-house stands on an elevation, and being covered with tin, has a glittering appearance. 1 observed no beauty about the town, and the man- ners of the people are as morose and forbidding as in other places in America ; indeed if you claim ac- quaintance with any of them as a townsman, or from having brought them a letter, you will invariably see them put their hands in their pockets, to keep what they have down. I had a letter to a store-keeper here, but after presenting it to him, he scarcely took any notice of me. I went to the shambles to aacertaioj af- one strear fuJJy nevei the mer night- Th and bd of at seconc iFard cursioi wy tn for riv( Edinbi ^ng, n< ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL. 143 bot- Uers ) l)e- i are Bntly rally )yage kind m by ica. Lthens I, and place houses ; milea I a few ike the e Ame- 1 Albany people to be As it Is come cause a When irds the le river, id being ince. A ^le man- iding as ilaitn ac- L or from jiably see !ep what ler here, ■ook any rtain, af- ter what I had seen, how the regular butchers slaugh- ter the cattle ; I observed, I should suppose, more than a hundred standing in a yard. There is a wood- en shed at one end, with an inclined plane, boarded, leading up to it ; the water of a small stream that empties itself into the Hudson flows underneath. I saw sixteen victims out of this number selected at once. A noose was put over their horns, or fastened on the head ; the ropes were rived through a ring on the floor, and made fast to a windlass, which was turned round, and the animals goaded up the inclined plane. When they came to a certain place in the shed, a flesher came behind with a strong rope, to which was attached another rope having a hook at each end ; this was passed round the hind-knees of the animal and hooked. The rope was then attached to an- other windlass, and the creature suspended by the hind legs. The flesher then removed some planks underneath, and going to the back of the animal, drew his knife across the throat, and penetrated at one cut into the back bone. The blood fell into the stream or drain below. The animals were dread- fully convulsed ; and I was quite shocked, for I had never witnessed any thing like it. A great deal of the butcher-meat used in New York during sum- mer is killed in Albany, and sent down in the night-time in steam-boats. The Champlain and Erie canals terminate here ; and being now heartily sick of xVmerica, I thought of at once taking my passage to Montreal ; but on second thoughts considered it would be better to for- ward my luggage to Whitehall, and make some ex- cursions on each side of the Hudson. The sprent of my trunk having broke, I was charged one shilling for rivetting it ; it cost me at first only sevenpence in Edinburgh — the Americans are the boys for charg- ing, no mistake. Walked on to Troy; there is a macadamized *>0mg!*iiMiim«u -m^ 144 ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL. ttS road between the two towns, which is a boast all over the Union ; I thought very little of it ; it was however pretty wide. Examined the arsenal, but saw imthing in it worth noticing ; it is how- ever roomy enough. The store-houses were gene- rally empty, and built chiefly of wood. This, like Albany, is a busy place. I crossed the Hudson here in a horse ferry-boat, and went a day''s journey into the country ; soil sandy, gravelly, undulating ; trees stunted ; farms miserable. I observed in one farm a milk-churn, which was wrought by means of a small wheelj driven round by the water from a rivulet, which was conducted to it by spouts ; it was an overshot- wheel, about one yard in diameter, and constructed by the farmer himself. I observed on another farm a different kind of churn, the shaft of which stood at an angle of 60, and was driven by a dog, M'ho kept walking on a drum up-hill as it were, and thereby causing the wheel to go round ; the drum on which the dog went was covered with p" !ces of cloth, to prevent his feet from slipping, x'his also, which was a very ingenious contrivance, was made by the farmer''s own hands. The cows in America do not give one fourth of the milk a good cow does in Bri- tain. I thought of the description of America by the Irishman, who said that it was a good country for hogs and women, but a devil of a one for men and horses. The Indian''s description also suits well : " Bukra man mak' ebery ting work but de hog ; he go 'bout like a bery gentleman ;"' — and so he does, having liberty to roam about as he pleases, and those that have frames on their necks seem to be as proud as any of the cadets I saw at the military academy at West Point. Crossed the Hudson by the wooden bridge at Waterford, the charge for which was three cents ; it is the first covered bridge that is to be met with on the IIOUTE TO SANDY-HILL. 145 St all d; it senal, how- geiie- , like -boat, ; soil farms churn, wheel, ch was ersliot- tructed er farm stood at ho kept thereby ^1 jridge at cents ; it lithonthe Hudson. I here fell in with a farmer from the Lo- thians, who had purchased several hundred acres, and had tried to improve the land by draining and plough- ing his fields into rigs ; but his drains were soon filled up, and the heavy rains made the fields quite level, by washing the light sandy particles from the higher level to the lowest. He had ruined himself, his com having cost four times the expence of that of his neigh- bours, who only MTought away with the one-handed plough, and riggled round the stumps and stones. Pie had chosen this spot as being near to the Hudson, and also to the markets of Troy and Albany ; but for all this he said he found great difficulty in get- ting his corn sold. I now went to see the grand aqueduct across the Mohawk River ; it is supported upon wooden blocks, and seems as if it were not above three feet deep. The li> -boats used are long and flat-bot- tomed. Thift € Champlain canal, and it put me in mind of som .uJi-leads I have seen in Scotland. I paid three cents for crossing the McAawk River on a wooden covered bridge, from whence I saw the Caushot Falls. I went as far as^ St Anthony's Nose, sometimes walking along the banks, and sometimes sailing in a line-boat ; having ascended the hill, I had a good view of the valley of the Hudson, and also a far way to the westward. It appears that the Mohawk River had at some former period open- ed a passage for itself through this chain of moun- tains. The alluvial sandy flats on its banks are pro- ductive, but exceedingly liable to inundation, like all the flat lands on the banks of rivers. I lost my way in this neighbourhood, and, night coming on, had to make my bed on the stump of a tree. Next day I went on to Ballston. There was a mighty stir there at the time. A negro had stabbed an American, and killed him--^what provocation had N I 346 ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL. been given I did not properly learn — ^but he was taken up, and every one in the bar-room where I happened to be was loud in condemning the negro, and saying he ought to be hanged ; — and, according- ly, he was tried, condemned, and hanged about three months after, and his body given for dissection. Went on to Saratoga Springs. The American fashionables come in great numbers here to drink the waters, which are said to be very salutary to invalids. Saw the use of rocking-chairs. I heard some noise in a house as if it was a school, and tapped at the door, which the teacher opened. I told him I was from Britain, and had used the li- berty to come in, to observe his method of teaching. He desired me to sit down, and calling up a class, put some questions to them in spelling. I observed they did not spell as we do, and asked the teacher whose dictionary he used. He replied, giving me an American snake-like stare, Webster's ; I said Johnson's was much used with us ; " Johnson !" said he, in a triumphant manner, '^ he could not spell ; indeed you have no good dictionary in Eng- land." This was too much of a good thing ; but my new acquaintance, thinking, I suppose, that he had not mortified me enough, called up a geographi- cal class, and, among other questions, put this : *' Which is the lake in America that covers more space than Great Britain .?" — " Lake Superior,'' said the boy, looking towards me in triumph. I smiled at the pedant's conceit, and after hearing a few si- milar questions put, with the answers, I left him, thinking on Mrs Trollope. Took a drive on the rail-way ; the carriages were propelled by steam. Went on towards Fort-Miller in a heavy rain, the sandy soil giving way under my feet. The country, being undulating and wooded, did not per- mit me to see far. I went, as I thought, in a nor- therly direction^ where I knew Fort-Miller lay; ROUTE TO SANDY-HILL. 147 li- m. rain, The per- nar- lay; the shadows of evening were fast approaching, and I knew that to lie down in the rain would finish me. I was angiy with myself for taking so much toil, angry with Mr Stuart and others for writing so fluently about America, but still more provoked at being gulled by those designing men, skippers, and book-makers, and call-birds. I roused my falling ener- gies, and sighed to be once more at home, that I might at least tell my family what I bad experienced ; I thought surely they will believe me. This caused me to exert myself; darkness, however, came on, but I had no fear of robbers, for I thought theirs would be as poor a trade as begging, travellers being so seldom to be met with. Being now greatly agitated from my helpless condition, and death seeming to be near, I became the more anxious to live. After wandering in the dark for some time, I observed, at a small distance from the road, a house, if it deserved that name, by a light appearing in the window. I scrambled the best way I could over a railed worm fence, over a field of Indian corn, down a declivity till I came to a stream that had swollen considerably by the rain, then up another acclivity, over another fence, and into a farm-yard; I had got to the back of the house, and had to find the door the best way I could. Having tapped for ad- mittance, the usual answer " Come in" was not given, but a female came to the door, and asked me in the Scotch dialect what I wanted ; I told her I had lost my way, had come lately from Edin- burgh, and was on my road back again by Mon~ treal. A lad now came also to the door ; and I repeated to them both that I had been long in the rain, (which was still pouring), and that I was fa- tigued, and wished for lodgings, at the same time offering to pay for any thing I got. They left me standing in the rain, to go and consult their father ; n2 ^< A hired female help went out of the kitchen with a tin trumpet, and gave several loud blasts as the signal for dinner. A large table covered with a cloth was set in the middle of the floor ; butcher meat, pork, potatoes, butter, honey, and sauce, or what we would call jam and jelly, were placed upon it ; tea was likewise prepared, and cyder set down, as if a large party was to dine. It was about twelve nooa. The hired helps, male and female^ of whom LUCERXE. 165 was there were about twenty, came in, and washed their hiinds. My niece took the head of the table ; two young children, one on each side, sat next her ; then, on the right, her husband, next to him myself, and then Mr Wilkie, the eldest son next him. The hired helps of the male sex sat on the right side ac- cording to seniority, and the females on the left, each having a knife and fork. All the company, includ- ing the domestics, helped themselves to M'hat they pleased. The lady poured out a cup of tea for me, and sweetened it with sugar ; both of my entertain- ers occasionally pressing me to help myself, as it M'as their custom, though contrary to ours. The whole scene made me think I had been put back four hun- dred years at least ; I considered the lady the feu- dal head, the guests the members of the family, and the hired helps the vassals and retainers. In- deed, there are vassals in America, though there are no servants ; and I soon discovered that my niece could make her hired female helps obey her as well as if they had been servants ; so could my nephew — no murmuring, else they are paid oft' at a month''s or even a week''8 end ; and they make sure of getting others to fill their places readily. The dinner was soon over, and the house cleared of the domestics. I asked my nephew to let me have pen and ink, and wrote down a few lines, which I handed to him, my object being to remove the sus- picion which he still seemed to entertain of my iden- tity, as I knew he was acquainted with my hand- writing. He looked at me stedfastly ; I explained what I meant, and he appeared satisfied. He now yoked his gig, and drove me to his sister, Mrs IVIartin's, at Little Falls ; her husband was at once farmer, dyer, fuller, and merchant. We next drove to the houses of Squires Wells and Ferguson, of Judges Rockwell and Wells, of Dr Hicks, and V i I If t I f 166 LUCERNE. many other acquaintances, some of whom wondered that I spoke as good English as themselves. There was on my nephew's property a large lake of some miles in extent, with many islands studded in it, one of which was a floating island, sometimes appearing here and sometimes elsewhere. He remem- bered its formation, which was occasioned by a num- b^ of spars and saw-dust from the saw-mills on the two streams that emptied themselves into the lake, being collected together. This island had increased in magnitude till it was above a mile in circumfe- rence ; trees were on it of considerable height, and the whole island covered with thick brushwood and wild fern, almost impervious. The margin of this floating island was sandy and gravelly. I used to take the boat and spend hours on it, acting the part of another Robinson Crusoe, and had nearly formed an acquaintance with an otter, which used to come and look at me without molestation. This kind of life, however, became to me wearisome, and I long- ed for something to do ; but my nephew would not allow me to work for fear of meeting with an acci- dent. — Besides his saw-mills, he had one for grinding rye, buck wheat, and Indian corn. One day his wife, Mr and Mrs Martin, and my- self, were going to visit a neighbour ; Jameses wife wished to have the waggon yoked to carry us, as she considered it very ungenteel to walk even a very short distance, when she kept two horses almost for the pur- pose. I demurred to this proposal, saying that we had plenty of time to walk, and I would have a better opportunity for observation, and all of us more time for conversation ; and as I had been accustomed to walk a good deal of late, that I was now getting stiff and rusty in the joints. She yielded to my wishes, and away we went. In going along the road, about a mile from James'^s house, we observed a snake rear its head more than a foot from the ground in LUCERNE. 167 our direction, its small black glancing eyes fixed stedfastly upon us. Mr Martin and his wife Sally were frightened, and wished to return ; but Lilly, James's wife, was not so alarmed. From the posi- tion the snake took up, it was evident he meant to stand his ground. I had killed hundreds before this, having waged a war of extermination against all that came in my way, and was unwilling to turn coward in presence of my two fail* nieces. Taking my arm from Lilly's, I went a-head to reconnoitre, with a good stick in my hand ready to knock him oft' if he should spring at me. When he saw me advancing, he darted his keen winkerless eyes on me, and with open mouth bobbed his head towards me, and rattled. No mistake with him now ;^harmless snakes do their best to escape, but the rattle-snake is bolder than a lion. He stared intently like a real Yankee, wishing me to advance within such space as he knew he could reach with one spring ; but I kept at a re- spectful distance, examining his keen eye, his open mouth, his gray skin, and his belly of a whitish colour mixed with red. Mr Martin having called on me to come back, I did so. He cast a stone at the snake but missed, I ':>ast another and missed also ; the reptile kept his position steadily. Mr Martin having cast again and missed, I made a second trial also, and cut his spine in two, just at the bend he had made to raise hin^self. Having fallen down, he made several attempts to rise, and even to leap, but it would not do. I now advanced cautiously, and giving him a few blows on the head to make his death sure, opened his mouth with my stick, his keen eyes still glancing upon me, and examined his fangs, then laid him across the stump of a tree to be scrutinized more leisurely at our return. The party congratulated me in having killed so formidable an antagonist as a rattle-snake ; he might be about four feet long, and three inches round at the thickest part. i i! * .aa I 168 LUCERNE. When wc returned, he was black with flies, and stript nearly to a skeleton, though it was within throe hours. Being thus domesticated for the present among my relations, I wrote home to my sons to tell our friends that America was much belied by travellers, skippers, land-speculators, and call-birds of every de- scription, mentioning the prospects of the different trades as follows : It is no place for lawyers — every one pettifogs in America. It is no place for printers — there are few readers there. It is no place for weavers — it is common to weave cloth for one's self. It is no place for tailors — tailoresses are chiefly employed. It is no place for cabinet-makers — the American houses are generally furnished in a very simple manner. It is no place for masons — the houses are chiefly built with wood. It is no place for slaters — the houses are coverc It is the cry out that wages are liigli ; but sup- pose a man makes 15 dollars a month, (which is great wages) this gives 120 American shillings, but an American shilling is only the value of our six- pence — here is a reduction. For several months iu the year men can scarcely work for cold, some months they cannot work for heat, and some on account of the vermin. Here is another reduction ; and unless you spin or weave your own cloth and send it to the fuller (who generally gets anything but money in pay- ment) or clothe yourselves in skins, wearing apparel is very expensive — no thriving manufactories, not- tvithstanding there are strict prohibitory laws against importation. Even provisions are very high ; and I am convinced that a man in Edinburgh \vith eight shillings per week might make himself more com- fortable than in America with fifteen dollars month- ly. I have seen them toiling for six dollars per month from sun-rise till sun-set. But this is a good place for swindlers and bankrupts who have robbed their creditors at home — they will find here the old hands who acted in a similar manner, and who are not the more honest for having changed their countrv* ; besides, they will run the chance of soon being fleeced of their ill-got gains. It is good for the Old Country, lor it acts as a safety valve for the scum, the froth, and the steam to evaporate. It is good for ship-owners who have frail vessels— they can with a smaller complement of seamen work the ship out, as the emigrants are always willing to lend a hand to any thing ; and if the ship goes down, there is not much matter, she is insured. At all events, the passengers have all paid their passage-money before they sail, and the skippers and seamen have a chance to get into the boats ; the passenger has little chance of saving any thing, and hardly his life. See how many ships with the pas- 170 LUCERNE. !■, triciif^^rs have been wrecked within these few years,, owing to speculators fn^ighting vessels that arc not sea-worthy, many having lost their lives, and some brought back to their own country, or landed in America, entirely destitute, the difference between the two being, that you may get relief at home, but none whatever in America. It is a good place "^r the man who has lost his all by trusting too much to the world — he has room enough here to weep in the wilderness without any one to hear him, or, if there should, with none to pity him. It is good for the destitute — they can exist, if existence in these soli- tudes is worth coveting; by industry they may make a livelihood. It is good for the grumbler, if he has the fortitude to come back — he has passed through Trophonius's Cave, and having seen the worst, will now be more contented ; he will learn that happiness is not to be found in external objects, but in his own breast. Every person who has seen the world, if he tells the truth, will say that the peasantry of no country can be compared with those of Britain for external comforts. I have seen only a little, but I know the fact — a near view strips ofl* the lettering and gilding. Even Cobbett, Gait, and Stuart, all returned to their own poor country ; Cob- bett wanted readers for his Register in order to make dollars, but the Americans preferred to keep the dollars to themselves. 171 CHAP. V. DOMESTIC LIFE IN THE BACK-WOODS. One day, my nephew James said, " Uncle, I meant to have taken you the tour of America, no mistake; but that freshr.t that undermined my lower mill keeps me hard at it. If I were to go with you, my hired helps would do very little, so I must look after them. I have told you that I had my things packed up to come to Scotland when that accident occurred, for that I required the aid of your son John. I will make his fortune in twelve years, no mistake ; and as you say he has abilities, he may raise himself in the State. But he must be some- time here before he can be a member of the legis- lature ; he can never be president, for those who fill that high office must be born in America. Now, had I been on my way to visit you while you were here on a similar errand to me, we should have missed each other, so it is perhaps better ; but the three thousand dollars which that confounded freshut has cost me is a loss, no mistake."" I said, '*• I showed you a letter I wrote to my son ; and if he has made up his mind to come, he will come. But I cannot stop ; I am fond of my own country, and the farther I am from it, I like it the better. He is young, and would be more easily reconciled to the chinge than me. I will wait, however, an answer to ray letter." *' Well, to-mor- row," said he, "I take you to Caldwell, on Lake George ; the court sits there, and we will be at its opening. That saiv-mill deranges all my plans ; I must be here, and I wish to attend to you, I mean to have all these forests cut down iu twelve years, v2 172 DOMESTIC LIFE no miptake.'" " And will you turn farmer then ?'^ said I. No, he replied, no ; he would go further back ; he was fond of the lumbering business, and would never think of growing more grain than what was necessary for his household and cattle. Next morning, accordingly, be drove me to Cald- well. As this is one of the places of note in Mr Stuarfs Three Years, I mean to be more parti- cular with it than with some others I have described. The prison and court-house are built of wood ; there is also a handsome wooden church. The town contains just twenty houses of wood, white-wash- ed, and one of stone; it lies on the west side of Lake George, a beautiful expanse of water, studded with upwards of three hundred islands, both banks being covered with wood of a stunted growth, and many of the surrounding hills with wild fern. One of the hills near the town goes by the name of Rattle- snake Hill, from several rattle-snakes^ dens being upon it ; and I saw some people who kept the rattles of those they had killed as trophies. The Americans say that the waters of Lake George are the purest in the world, and that they have even been imported to Europe, and used in religious houses as holy water. I happened to go to the court-house to hear some cases tried. In the passage is a space staked off with wooden spars, where the prisoners about to be tried are confined, in order that they may see and be seen by others ; it put me in mind of a henVcrib. You ascend a wide stair, and enter a well lighted large hall having some square pews like what are to be seen in our old churches, some seats like those in our modern churches, and also common forms or benches. Though the hall was very large, there were hw people assembled. The statutes at large were placed so as any one might lift a volume and examine it ; I myself did so, and no person inter- I\ THE BACK-WOODS. 173 and riipted me. One of the pews opposite the bench was filled with lawyers, who were sitting in eveiy variety of posture, some having their feet higher than their mouth, and rocking as if they were on a hobby-horse, others with their feet on a square table in the centre. The jury were sworn by kissing the book, and took their seats ; they had neither pens nor paper. The first case was that of a person for stealing wood ; witnesses were called, who gave their evi- dence in good English, but interlarded continually with " I guess it was so,'' never giving a direct an- swer, another very common phrase being, " I want to know."" There were many other cases, one fellow for horse-stealing — he got the state prison ; another for fire-raising, setting fire to a wood — this is a very common offence, and severely punished — not proven ; another for shooting a deer — he was fined in twenty dollars — as these animals are getting scarce, the penalty for shooting them is high, and yet it is con- tinually asserted at home that there are no game- laws in America. Sometimes a witness did not appear when called, and an officer being dispatched for him, he would ge- nerally be found playing at the game of ten-pins, Ori ginally nine pins only were used ; but the New York legislature passed a law to prohibit it on account of its gambling nature. The people, however, were too knowing to be done in this manner, and there- fore added a tenth pin, which it would have requ'r^d a new act to suppress. I visited the ruins of Fort George and Fort Wil- liam Henry ; and my heart warmed when I saw brick of British manufacture. The American bricks are entirely red from the greater admixture of sand ; but the British brick is blue in the heart from the clay preponderating. These forts, which lie very low, had originally been bomb-proof, having a cover- ed way from the forts to the lake to bring in water r3 ! Il 174 DOMESTIC LIFE with safety ; but the French battered them both to shivers from a hill to the eastward, which still goes by the name of French-Hill. The walls, part of which are still standing, had been of immense thick- ness, and faced up in the inside and arched over with brick imported from Britain. The bricks are now lying strewed about ; and if the people of Cald- well had any notion of building with that material instead of wood, they would have abundance for severjil houses, but the latter is always preferred. Stone they cannot use, as it would be split by the intensity of the frost. The outside building of Fort George was of lime-stone. Some men were picking down the walls, and breaking and burning them into lime ; they used no kiln, only a fire of wood, and ])ut on a layer of wood and a layer of stones alter- nately—the process of making lime in this manner was very slow. I visited the ravine, if I might so term the un- dulating spof- .'.'ere » ^itish troops were cut off by a stratff •• • of the I .dians, after marching out of the for ^ in terms of a capitulation, with all the honours ^i war. No doubt but the French betrayed them into the hands of these savages ; they at least rendered the British no assistance, though the dis- tance from the fort was not above two miles. It was here where Colonel Monro lost his two daugh- ters, as described so well in the Last of the Mohi- cans. I also visited Bloody Pond, where a great number of bodies were cast in to prevent burial. AU this tract is overgrown with young timber ; but the mountains behind it to the westward are extremely barren, having little growing on them but wild fern. I have seen nothing like heather since I came to America. Observing a sign, " Lawyer''s store,"" I went into the house ; among the limited stock of books was a very thick pamphlet containing a description of lands as IN THE BACK-WOODS. 175 for sale by vendue, on a given day, for arrears of land taxes in the county of Warren. One evening I made one of a fishing party on Lake George. The boat had a sort of mast, with a grate made of old iron hoops, in which was laid some pitch-pine, which gave a good light ; one man stood in the bow, and another at the stern, each furnished with a leister ; two plied the oars, and a fifth attended to the fire. The water being remarkably clear, the fiSh were easily discerned ; but, being very scarce, we only caught four shad after several hours fishing. I never saw an angler on the lake, probably owing to the fish being by no means plentiful, though its ample extent, its ex- treme loneliness, and the purity of the waters, would lead one to suppose the contrary. The view from the lake towards either shore was uncommonly dreary ; no lights were to be seen flickering to and fro; man and civilization were awanting. And what is nature without man ? — nothing but a wil- derness. I took up my abode here with Thomas Telford, Esquire, who has many square miles of this miser- able, sandy, stoney, and gravelly soil ; he Mas very intelligent, and had been on an intimate footing with my late brother, who left him one of the trus- tees for his family. He pressed me to Si'iid him out as many farmers from Britain as I could prevail upon to come, offering to give them land, and stock their farms on shares ; but I have never been able to make up my mind to ask any one to go, but, on the contrary, have rather used means to prevent them. Mr Telford had a boat on the lake, in which he and I used often to go and visit some of the islands. The view of the two shores in day-light is truly grand, were it not for the want of population. Cald- well, however, looks respectable, with its church, n 4 m 176 DOMESTIC LIFE [pi li u its jail, and court-lioiise, (the vanes on the top be- ing gilded), and its other twenty houses. One day, while we were amusing ourselves in this manner, some of the chalking between the planks of the boat, which could not be pronounced sea-worthy, as it leaked much, gave way, and the water rushed in at a great rate ; we had both bc*>n plying at the oar, but now I had to abandon my post, and take to baling the boat, while Mr Telford pulled away as if he had not many minutes to live. Looking up and perceiving something portentous in the air, he exclaimed, " God preserve me, Mr Weston ! can you swim ?"" "^ Like a duck," I replied ; " take no fear o'* me, m lid yourself; yonder is a tornado coming from tho ni 'th, and unless we get to the lee of Diamond Is- land, we run a chance of being blown out of the ^vave^ to be blown into it again.""' And sure enoiigli it came, sweeping along the lake in terrible grandeur, though ihe thickness of the atmosphere prevented us from observing the desolation it occasioned. The lake, which not half an hour before was as calm as a mirror, the sun shining brightly upon it, was involved in a dense fog, as wore also the hills on each side. The sun was covered with a haze, that gave it a bloody and dismal appearance ; there was a heavy groundswell on the water, which emit- ted a low grumbling sound ; and the hissing of the blast was fearful and ominous. We had just time to land on the lee-side of Diamond Island when the tornado reached us ; we had got our frail bark hauled on the beach, i>nd t •med bottom upwards, and sat down in the i^e of the stern, holding on by some brush-wood \nth a death-likti grasp, ready to lie prostrate with our heads to the storm. An almost total darkness enveloped us ; and though many trees were blown down and broken in two just beside us, the hissing noise was so loud, and the atmosphere so thick, that we neither saw nor heard i «» IN THE BACK-WOODS. 177 of our danger. In about half an hour the storm liad passed by us, sweeping onward through the valley of the Hudson, and spreading desolation as it went ; a white painted frame-house which I had observed about an hour before was levelled to the ground. The sun now broke forth again, M'hen we once more launched our frail craft on the water, and pulled to Fort-George ; we hauled her up high and dry on the beach, and stowed away the oars among some brush-wood. In going home, we saw that much damage had been done, houses, worm-fences, and many trees blown down and shattered. Mr Telford had several orchards, also some farms between Lakes George and Champlain, in which there were no tenants. The houses Mere empty and desolate ; I used often to think, "who could live and be happy in such a wilderness ? If people come to settle in such places, and survive for any length of time, they see their family gradually degenerate into barbarians, without any advantage to them- selves to compensate for the sacrifice they have made. One of these farms, besides being Mell stocked with apple and plum trees, had a considerable num- ber of peach trees, from which peach brandy was made, and from the apples, apple sauce, cyder, and apple whisky. The cyder was excellent, but the peach brandy and apple whisky very poor. In going over one of his farms, Mr Telford said, " I have set this farm on shares to three persons in suc- cession, all of whom have taken me in, and disposed of some of the fiirnishings I gave them ; and I find it cheaper to keep these three farms empty than to let them, though you may see the houses are as good as the one I possess. If I hire people to work, they do nothing unless I am along with them, and if l bid them perform any service, if it is done at all it is sure to be in the wrong way. I have on one of my farms an Irishman, who deserted lately from ) i < -I .-»,■, 178 DOMESTIC LIFE Quebec ; he is doing well, but my other hired helps are spoiling him ; he is grossly ignorant, can neither read nor write, and is a catholic. I have also a Scotchman, who works well, and minds what I say ; he also is a deserter, but he is sulky, and frequently gets drunk, and I am often afraid he will kill some of us in his high fits ; yet he is faithful, and M'hat I wish him to do he does well. As for my own countrymen, they are so trifling and idly-disposed, that I can make nothing of them." On one of these farms I saw the Scotchman mow- ing hay with a cradle scythe, an instrument in great repute in America, owing to the shortness and thin- ness of the crops, and the stoney nature of the soil. In a conversation with this man, I learnt that he hated America and the Americans. He told me that his brother had written to him about coming out, and wished me to write and advise him not to do so, for he was very uncomfortable himself, detested the manners of the people, and had a mind to return and join his regiment. He seemed pleased when I told him I had made up my mind to return. Having mentioned that Mr Telford wished me to send him out some men, " Don''t do it,*" said he, " or the curse of God will follow you. If they have as much money, let them buy a rope and hang themselves, if not, let them steal something and be hanged according to law, but at all events don''t advise them to come here. For my part, I would sooner be shot than live all my life in this place.'' Mr Telford did not know what passed between his Scotch hired help and me ; but I was ultimately the means of prevent- ing his brother from going out — this person's name is Robert M'Intosh, Auchtermuchty. I was often much entertained sitting at Mr Telford's table of an evening at supper ; he sat at the head, his hired helps, male and female, to the number of up- wards of a dozen, sitting on separate sides at the same ii f IN THE DACK-WOODS. 179 helps either alt^o a I say ; uently 1 some I what y own sposed, I mow- a great d thin- tie soil, that he old me coming 1 not to letested ► return when I Having nd him board, and helping themselves out of the same dish. He was fond of a joke, which his American countrj'- men could return, for they resemble the English very much in their language and manners. The Irishman could also pass his joke readily ; but the Scotchman used often to become sulky, saying he hated such nonsense, and I observed him more than once leave the table on this account before he had got his fill. One day a person said some thing after he had left the room, which he partly overheard ; he im- mediately opened the door, wont up to the man, and shook his fist in his face, calling him a coward, a scoundrel, and a Yankee vagabond, and if ever he again dared to make any reflexions against him or his country, he would make snakes-meat of him, or any one of them. The helps would often call their master to his face " Tommy,'' in replying to his jokes, a familiarity which he seemed to encou- rage. But I am forgetting that there is no such a personage as master in America ; though I can vouch for it that a boss is a very tyrannical being. Mr Telford was very intelligent, and abounded in anecdotes, some of which, being of a striking na- ture, and relating to real characters, I have taken down in my notes, and will give them as a sample. They refer to IMr James Caldwell, the person who purchased the township, and gave it his name. He contributed largely to erect a towns-house, built a church in the town, a few houses on the banks of Lake George, and a stately wooden mansion for him- self ; also made roads and wooden bridges. He was at this time a personage of great importance, plan- ting a colony, making roads, and clearing the country. The tract of territory which he purchased from the state at less than half a cent per acre was very large. Caldwell and his wife, with two children, arrived in America in the year . He wrought as a la- bourer, and she hired herself as a help, and boarded 4 i- 180 DOMESTIC LIFE out the children. They changed their situations often, with the view of bettering their condition, and did make progress. At last they found their way to Albany, a place then rising into repute-, though now on the decline ; and with the few dol. lars they had saved, the wife took a house, kept boar- ders and lodgers, and sold spirits and cyder, which, as the water is bad in Albany, she *' calculated^^ upon, and got on slick, no mistake. Jem continued at out- door work, li\ ering and loading timber on the wharfy, a profession which put him in the way of bringing boarders and lodgers to Miss Caldwell, a term Jem rarely employed, his usual name for her being " Irish,'' except before company, and after they had got up in the world. When alone together, or when he was high, I mean drunk, he made much of her, no mistake ; and she was really a smart woman, and lie an industrious man, a regular Irish- man, who could turn his hand to any thing, and was very partial to variety, — in short, he wrought at every thing, but was perfect at nothing, and brought home the dollars to Miss Caldwell, no mistake. Miss Caldwell could write — he was ignorant ; Miss Caldwell got on very slick, and she caused Jem to assist her ; she extended the store, and dropped the boarders, and gave Jem some education. They gathered the dollars fast, no mistake. Jem could not settle down, but would often get high and stay out all night ; and all that Miss Cald- well could do would not stop him. He went out one afternoon, as usual, leaving Miss in the store ; at the proper hour she shut it, went into the house, and sent the hired helps to bed. By this time they were living in a stylish way. She then prepared the room as if there had been a large party supping, pouring out a little wine and spirits into decanters, and putting broken ones on the table and on the floor, with some of the liquors in them, spilling a — "•- IN THE BACK-WOODS. lai tuntlons )iKlition, nd their repute, few dol- Bpt boar- vhich, us d''' upon, ;d at out- e wharfs?, bringinj^ a term ler being they had ether, or ide much a smart ihir Irish- , and was rought at i brought mistake, nt; Miss Jem to )pped the They often get liss Cald- went out le store; ;he house, time they spared the supping, decanters, id on the spilling a her -d as little here and there, and strewing the room witli broken glass, upsetting some of the chairs, and mak- ing such a confusion as if there had been a great de- bauch. She also put some candle-ends, which she had reserved for the purpose, into the sockets of the candlesticks, and waited Jem's return. These she lighted when she heard him enter, and sat down upon a chair, pretending to be drunk and asleep. He came forward, called to her, and shook her, but all his efforts could not awaken her ; so he lai?^^ as WEST MAIN STRUT WUSTIR.N.Y. 14SM (716)t72-4S03 '^ ( 182 DOMESTIC LIFE make what they had, and would now help to spend it, but not in the manner he did, going out so ofiten all night without telling what he had spent, or what com- pany he was keeping. She would spend all her share at home ; and if he returned in a reasonable time, he would see both how and in what company it was ex< pended, and the sooner it was all gone the better. She added, " You are loud in your complaints against me for one night'^s drinking, but you will have it often now, unless you stop at home, and keep me company, no mistake.^^ Jem was confounded, and had not a word to say in self-defence ; he promised amendment, and kissed his dear Irish, whom he really loved tenderly, and well she deserved it, for she was a smart slick woman, no mistake. Another anecdote was as follows : — Jem was one day making love in the store to a pretty girl, when Miss C'aldwell having come into a side room by an- other door, heard the assignation made, and the time appointed, and saw him give the girl a gown-piece and some ribbons, promising her more, at the same time treating her with a glass of brandy, no mistake. Miss Caldwell retired unperceived, and re-entering by the front door, went again into the side-room, and sat down to sew. By this time they had several helps in the store ; and she generally allowed Mr Caldwell and them to manage matters, unless when there was much to do. When the time tor the as- signation drew near, her husband was preparing to leave the house, when she asked him where he was going. He replied, to get payment of an account, and being pressed to say from whom, named a cer- tain person. " I wish to consult you about a piece of dress I have got,^^ said she, and began to put off the time talking. He got very impatient, and made several attempts to break off; but she still detained him under various pretences till the time of the assignation had elapsed. She had made some nice IN THE BACK-WOODS. 183 cordial, of which she gave him a glass, taking one herself, and began to fondle and kiss him, till at last he got quite enamoured of her, and they enjoyed another honey-moon. In a short time she said, " Jem, Miss has waited a long time to pay that ac- count she owes you, you had better now go and get it. Jem laughed, and asked her how she knew the story, and she told him. " No, no, Irish,^^ said he, " I will not go, for I love you better than all the women in America — ^let her wait ; but I wonder how it is, for as fond as I am of you I sometimes like a change. I know I am wrong, but cannot help it, and am sometimes sorry for it.^^ Mr Caldwell accumulated a great many dollars, and attained some influence in the State, was a lord of the manor, and what not. His descendants, however, do not appear to be over-careful. The house, though of wood, had been tastefully built ; but when I was in that neighbourhood the paint was peeling off the walls ; and, like Washington'*8, the whole building had a neglected appearance, and seemed hastening to decay, though no doubt at its erection it would be the best house between it and Albany. An island on Lake George, not far from it, was named by the proprietor Tea Island ; a small house was built on it, and when Caldwell had com- pany, he used to take them thither to drink tea. It is still used for this purpose by the hotel-keeper, and many persons frequent it. Lake George is commonly frozen over on the Ist of December, and continues till the middle of April ; for three months during that period the ice is gene- rally so strong that sleighs and waggons with lum- ber and other goods can go upon it, and even cross it, though accidents are by no means unfrequent. People have to wear mits for their hands, and masks for their faces, not for fashion, but to prevent them vhat rank I know not ; and what were the subjects discussed, whether dollars, dress, or sauce, I am equally ignorant, but the last mentioned topic is the only one I have ever heard them conversing about. * In came Squire Caldwell. It was the fashion then to have porta- ble stoves, on which the ladies might put their feet when they were see-sawing on the rocking-chairs ; the squire took his lady''s from under her, saying, ** My M'ife has still as much Irish blood in her as not to need the luxury of a stove, nor shall I allow one in my house." So saying, he carried it out, and proceeding to the lake, broke a hole in the ice with a pick- axe to throw it in ; but a good part of the ice having gi^'en way before he was aware, down he went, pick-axe, stove, and all. The squire was taken out after having enjoyed a cold bath for some time at 18 degrees below zero. The articles that accom- panied him in his fall were never recovered, and j)robably remain there to this day. Mr Telford showed me his maple trees, his maple sugar, and the process of manufacturing it, which accorded with what I have formerly described ; the sugar was very dark and in large lumps. He told me that a new race of emigrants was proceeding from the Canadas ; this was a sort of maggot, which was progressing at the rate of fifty miles per annum, from north to south— it had crept into his bee-hives, where it wove its web, and both the honey and honey-comb became putrified. The bees had for* saken the hives, several of which M'ere taken down to show me how the maggot wrought, I took the steam-boat from Caldwell to Ticon^ IN THE BACK-WOODS. 185 deroga. In reconnoitring the fort through my teles- cope, which I always carried ahout with me, a per- son, a real Yankee, as I knew from his nasal tone and high cheek bones, entered into conversation with me. He spoke of my being now in a free country ; and I answered, '' My own country is as free as America — indeed so free are we, and we know it so well, that we never mention it; and so fond am I of my native place^ after having seen a little of Ame- rica, and satisfied myself of the respective merits of the two countries, that I mean shortly to retum.^^ We entered into a long discussion on this latter subject ; and, as usual, our conversation soon turned to the War of Independence. " We captured that fort from the British,^^ said he, pointing to Tieon- deroga. " That was the chance of war,*" I replied, " but I have read that General Burgoyne took it on one occasion in a single night from both the French and the Americans ; he swung up his artil- lery from tree to tree, and from rock to rock, and planted them on the top of that hill, and had the command of the garrison. Buc he used his advan- tage with moderation ; he allowed the Americans and French to march out with the honours of war. Your general, M*Donald, was tried by a court- martial ; he was a Scotchman — and if you had neither English, Scotch, nor Irish in your army, the very Indians would soon annihilate you ; for the French overran a great part of your territory, and we were the people who stopt their career — and how has America requited us ?" " The British fleet lies quietly in the bottom yonder,^^ said another in- dividual who joined the conversation ; " we took it." I replied, *< It was good for the Americans and for our deserters that you were successful, for our ad- miral would have hanged the half of your crew if he had succeeded, and they deserved it for fighting q3 186 DOMESTIC LIFE against their country. But the prize you made in capturing the fleet was of small importance, as the ships were so utterly useless that they were allowed to sink." I crossed the country towards a place called Athol ; country undulating and barren. One day I met a large snake, who offered me no resistance, but tried to get out of my way. I cast a stone at him and wounded him. He fixed his bright eyes steadily, and as it were reproachfully upon me, and darting out his long tongue, seemed to say, *^ What have I done to merit this treatment at your hands ? I wished to get out of your way, but you prevented my escape. You are now about to leave America, and we should never again have met on this side of time. Surely you might have left me to my natural enemies the hogs, and given me a chance of liring a little longer.**' I had seated myself on a stump at a respectful distance, and regarding him stedfastly, ac- knowledged the justice of his appeal. '* Yes, my pretty snake," said I, " I have been guilty of wanton cruelty, I do confess ; but for your sake I promise henceforth never to injure any of your species while I remain here."" Perceiving that I had given up my murderous intention, the wounded reptile turned from me, and " dragging his slow length along," escaped for the present among the brushwood, being reserved, probably at no distant date, as a morsel to fatten the hogs. I may men- tion here that the Americans are remarkably fond of pork, which they gorge in great quantities, and which is said to be frequently the cause of the fits and delirium so prevalent. This quarter abounds in hemlock ; and I observed several labourers peeling off the bai4c, as we do our oak, to tan with. I entered into conversation with them, and took up my abode for one night in their ehanty, that is^ a hut erected with branches of trees, IN THE BACK-WOODS. 187 or any thing that comes in the way, without any turf to cover it. It is one of the most miserable erections one can conceive — a tent, though in rags, would be a palace to it ; and the men seemed to be smoked and dried almost equal to our red herrings. They who come to America expecting to live in con- fort and idleness will find themselves miserably dis- appointed. Athol is a poor, sandy, stoney, gravelly place. I put up with a farmer who occupied one hun- dred acres. No M-heat will grow here except the buck species, which frequently occasions cutaneous eruptions to those who eat much of it ; rye and Indian corn, however, are produced, but the crops are thin. This farmer, along with three brothers, came over about fifteen years ago ; but two of them died of consumption. They used to meet every Sunday at each other''s houses to read the Bible. I said to Jiim, *^ This miserable place is nothing to Blair in Athol."*' " No," said he sighing ; " but we were entrapped by the name. This is a common trick with land-speculators ; and we were simple enough to believe that it had some resemblance to the origi- nal place on that account ; but we have been wretch- edly deceived." There was an itinerant shoe-maker in the house making and mending shoes ; I observed he used pegs to fasten on the soles as well as the heels. Here, as is very common, X had tea without sugar, though there were plenty of maple trees. My host, who seemed to be far gone in consumptiouj said he had long hoped to be able to come back, and lay his bones in his native land, but that hope was' now over. His children were acquainted with no- thing better, and he had done all for the best. One hundred acres of land is a great deal in Scotland ; but here, M'hat is it worth ? My hostess, an intel- ligent woman, seemed resigned to her fate ; and, as I rose to take my departure, having intimated that t v \. 188 DOMESTIC LIFE % I was on the eve of returning home, she shed tears. I have frequently witnessed this. I now took the road to Warren. This is a miser- able sandy undulating place ; the town is composed of a few paltry but showy wooden buildings, painted white. This being a country where hemlock abounds, there is a very large tan- work in the place; they steep the bark as we do malt, using only the liquor, and the tan-pits are heated with steam to force on the process. The hemlock bark is not so good as oak bark, and the American leather is very inferior to that which is tanned in Britain ; the importation, duty is 50 per cent. I visited the poor's-house at Warren, and I have as low an opinion of it as of American prison>dis- cipline. No idleness is allowed here ; there is land, or at least sand to cultivate, in order to rear as much as will afford food for the inmates ; and if there be any luxuries, these go to the keepers, who tyran- nize over the members in the same way as is done in the state-prison, frequently using the lash as an ar- gument. I once saw a poor female come to a rela- tion of mine to beg some clothing ; she was a widow with three children, who, while she was out work- ing, had been roasting potatoes, and had set their miserable log-house on fire, when every thing they had M'as destroyed. My relative recommended her to go to the poor's-house, but she would not, though she had nothing to subsist upon but potatoes and milk, and some Indian com ; butcher meat she could never purchase, and did not taste for years together, except when out working. Hearing there was one Mr M*Leod from Edin- burgh in the neighbourhood, I thought I should call on him, and learn his opinion of America ; he was a mason and farmer. When I entered the house, I saw a woman with her back towards me ; she was dressed in a cotton gown full of holes«— the IN THE BACK-WOODS. 189 American females wear worsted stuffs, being better adapted for wooden fires, as they spark so much. Three white-haired cliildren in rags were playing on the floor. She turned round and recognized me at once, having often been in my shop. " Goodness !"" she exclaimed, ** what has brought you here ?""— • " To see you," I replied. I then told her what was my motive in coming, and that I meant imme- diately to return. " I wish to God we could get back,''^ said she ; and began to apologize for having no spirits in the house, which I answered by saying that I was a philosopher and a backwoods-man, and would take a draught of milk. Mr M'Leod had carried on the building trade in Edinburgh to a great extent, several of the houses around the Canal Basin having been built by him. He became embarrassed in the year 1825, and with what he could realize went to America, the land of liberty and plenty, proposing with the money he had to purchase property, and become a landed gen- tleman, leaving poor Scotland and all his sorrows behind him. He did leave Scotland sure enough, but his sorrows stuck to him. He was obliged to part with the land he had purchased in America at a fourth of what it cost him, and having spent all, had to travel over the country in search of employ- ment as a working mason, sometimes picking up a job, but more frequently without it ; had been at New Orleans, Cincinnati, New York, and Mon- treal. At my interview with this person, I advised him to return, which he said he could not do, as he thought shame ; but I answered that I meant to do the same thing myself, and felt no shame. " Oh, but," said he, " the way I left home was different from yours. I am often truly vexed to hear of so many people coming here to their ruin, from the flattering accounts given by our travellers. Have you read Mr Stuart's book ?" I said, " Yes ; ' 1 190 DOMESTIC LIFE 'I and I have travelled many miles in his wake." " Did you notice his account of Caldwell ?" " I did/' said I, << and I have been in the court he de- scribes, and heard some trials." " You wont believe what he says about it ?" " No indeed," I replied, " he may tell such stories to the marines, as the sailors say, but ssiilors wont believe him." " No," said he, ** and masons are better off in the Old Country with nine shillings a week, than in Ame- rica with forty. I hope you will tell the truth when you go back." I promised that I would, even though I should be laughed at ; and took my leave of him, he having agreed to call at my relation''s to see me, before I left — but he did not come. I saw him, however, in October, when he told me that he had just got fourteen dollars cash for building all that summer, the rest of his payments having been received in kind, and was now reduced to misery. Mr Stuart never travelled on the bye-ways of America — ^he kept the highways, on rivers, canals, lakes, public roads, and railways, taking his infor- mation from skippers, mine host at a tavern, and a certain new bombastical gazetteer-book. I was told even by those who I knew wished to entrap others, that his book was too highly coloured. I have often met with misery in the bye-ways. Wishing to re- turn to my relations by what I understood was a nearer cut than going round by Caldwell, I took the direction pointed out to me. The road was dis- tinct enough at first, but became less so as I ad- vanced. I passed several deserted houses and farms, (and a deserted log-house is really a miserable sight) till at last I came to a place where I lost all trace of the road. There was a hill, however, which I recognised to be Pot-Ash, and steered my course by it ; but at times, from the undulating nature of the country, I lost sight even of this object. At length I descried a log-house on a cleared spot, IX THE BACK-WOODS. 191 which I gained by climbing over a rail-fence, but had the mortification to find it deserted. I had now to take the woods, with no track to guide myself by ; and when I got to the ridge of any of the un- dulating mounds (they did not deserve the name of hills), other ridges appeared beyond with a gulley between, but no Pot-Ash, nor the vestige of a house or human being. I occasionally saw cattle-tracks, which served only to mislead me. Trees I climbed, but to no purpose ; in some places the direction I took seemed the right one, for I had a pocket compass, but it would bring me to nothing but a large trunk of a tree, and several times, in stepping on one of these, my foot would go quite through, there being nothing but the outside bark. I proposed at last to follow a stream, as Cooper the American novelist says the Indians do, which ran in the direction I wished ; but it was exceedingly serpentine, and coming to a morass on the bank before I was aware, in I plumped up to the middle. With difficulty I got myself extricated, washed my clothes in the stream, and resumed my search, leaving the faithless guid- ance of the river. The sun was now far past the meridian, the dark sides of the mountain had a dis- mal and ominous appearance, and I became full of anxiety. When hope was nearly expired, I saw something white at a distance ; I went towards it, but discovered it was only a goose. Shortly after- wards, I observed a cleared spot, and presently a house and a woman milking a cow. There was a stream betwixt us, and not knowing its depth, I be- gan to look anxiously about me, at the same time calling out to the woman, who looked round appa- rently in surprise. I crossed the stream over the trunk of a tree which had been blown down, and advanced towards the female, who fled at my ap- proach. I pursued, but she escaped through the worm-fence by a hole which I could not discover. ^ 192 DOMESTIC LtF£ Having climbed over it, I advanced towards the house, where the female had stationed herself at the door, which she held a little open, ready to shut it should I attempt an entrance. I endeavoured to excite her sympathy by stating that 1 had wandered a long way in the M'oods, and lost my road, stating at the same time the place I was in search of ; and requested her to give me a little water to drink. She answered that there was plenty of water in the brook, giving me the keen American stare, and still holding by the door, behind which she had partly concealed herself. She pointed out the road to me, however, after a second appeal, and said if I made haste, I might clear the woods before sun-down. I have noticed this adventure, because some of our travelling poets talk loudly of the hospitality of the females in the back-settlements. I have often be- fore been told to go to the brook when I made the request to have a little water to drink, and that too in places more populous than this. After various other casualties, such as finding a bridge broken down which I wished to cross, and which I accomplished not without difficulty, and roads branching off in various directions to tanta- lize and perplex me, I was brought to a stand-still by a swamp which came in view just as all trace of a path had disappeared. I now became really alarmed ; and hearing the report of a gun at a short distance, pressed through the underwood, and saw a tall man of sallow complexion and ill-clothed, armed with a rifle, and a blue jay in his hand. His ap- pearance put me in mind of the scout described by Cooper in the Spy. Having told him my plight, he said, " Why did you come this road ? it is four- teen years since government expended any thing on it, and it is scarcely passable for a man and horse, even though he is acquainted with the country." I then told him my adventures, stating that I had IN THE BACK-WOODS. 193 a map In my possession, in >vhich this road was dis- tinctly laid down, together with a pockot-compass, and I was certain I had not deviated from the track. I also mentioned the house I had ]>a8sc>d, and the female M'ho directed me onwards. " The house is mine,^' said he, " and the female is my wife, and seldom sees any one since the road is changc>d ; we are really back- woods people. Are you (looking stedfastly on me) from Scotland lately, and uncle to Jem Weston P" I assented. " He would not advise you to come this road, I am sartin ; and it is won- derful you have found your way this length, but I will see you safe to his house now. There is no mistake with Jem Westou." We accordingly set off together ; and at sun-down came to another stream, which I certainly would not have been able to cross without a guide. The wooden supports of the bridge had given way, and the strong beamo that stretched across the river had broken in the centre ; the planks on the sides had been sawn asunder, and the beams rested on the old broken standards fully six feet below the old road, which had not been sloped even for foot passengers. No horses or waggons could have passed ; and it was with some difficulty I got down to a foot-path, awl crossed in safety this rotten wooden fabric. Having enquired at my guide why the road was permitted to remain in such a miserable state, he said that some people of influence had stipulated with a person who had solicited their suffrages at an elec- tion, to make a motion that the road should be changed, in order that it might go through their property, which was accordingly done ; " and we may do as we like,"' he added, " it is fourteen years since any statute labour was done on the road, or a cent spent upon it ; and you have seen that it is . neai'ly obliterated, although it exists on the map.'* '.*„•_ 194 DOMESTIC LIFE f i I got a good deal of information from th:? person of such a nature as made me more in love with poor Scotland than ever ; and he at length brought me safe to my nephew, who cautioned me against placing any dependence on maps in future. An itinerant Hhoemaker, recently married, having purchased fifteen acres of land in our neighbourhood at one and a half dollar per acre, was about to erect a frame-house on the road side as a public-house, or home as it is termed, about two miles from my nephew''s house. The process of building in this manner, in which all the neighbours lend their assis- tance, is called in the language of the country a " raising bee," and is generally a scene of interest and amusement. Accordingly, on the day appointed, having breakfasted at sun-rise, as is common in Ame- rica, that labour may be dropt for two hours dur- ing the heat of the day, I went to the scene of ac- tion. Many had arrived before our party came forward, and were employed, some in cutting the frame standards into proper lengths, some in making tenors, some in morticing, some in making pins, and some in boring the holes for them. Nails are a scarce article in America; yet this free people charge 50 per cent, duty on all kinds of imported iron. The American axe is not fashioned like ours ; its edge is not so broad, nor has it such a curve ; it is narrower, and rounded at the sides. The augres have a screw like our gimb- lets for the purpose of working them in as they are turned round. There were four steers yoked to a kind of scoops, shod with iron in front, having two handles like the stilts of a plough. The person who held the stilts darted the edge of the scoop into the sand and gravel, and the steers dragged till it was full ; it was then taken to a side and emptied. The large stones were taken out to form walls for a cel- lar, and to lay the foundation beams, that they might "^•SMu^r.^ IN THE BACK-WOODS. 195 for ica; all not nor ed at imb- jr are to a two who the ; was The eel- night be kept high and dry. No wonder that the tornados oceasionaUy blow down the houses, the rounded rolled stones that are used admitting the blast readily. There was no use for a spade, and very little for a pick-axe, the soil being so loose. Every one could render some assistance but myself ; I was worse than useless — yet all were kind to the foreigner, and when they drank spirits, which they did out of a grey- beard, each invited me to partake with him. There was no measuring in glasses — it is a free country ; yet I observed no drunkenness, every one working as if he were willing to do his utmost. In about four hours the space for the cellar was cleared out with these scoops and steers to about four feet be- low the surface, and faced up with large rounded stones, not one having a corner on it. The founda^- tion beams rested on the same kind of stones, about two feet above the surface. The house was to have two apartments, one for the bar-room and the other for a kitchen, besides garrets. Some cut the joist- ings and clap-boards to their proper lengths, and prepared the shingle for the roof. Tiles would not answer here, as they would break both with the heat of summer and the cold of winter ; neither would slates suit. Shingle is made from the wood of the spruce-tree, cut into lengths, and split as we do our lathe. During the heat of summer it curls up, ad- mitting the air freely, and if rain comes on, as it does suddenly, it also has free admission into the house, from the same cause. The frame was now jointed and strongly pinned, the sides and gables brought to their several places, and all hands mustered for the raising; I could take a nart in this. The undertaker, or archi- tect, sail in a loud voice, '* Are you all ready, boys ?''"' " All ready," was the reply Standing as a fugleman before us, he then swung his arms, and r a 2 196 DOMESTIC LIFE twisted his body, to the words, " One — two — three — heave !" We raised the frame a little, and held on till it was propped ; some of the hands were now ready with poles to act as levers, to hold on what we had got ; and ropes were attached to the upper plate to steady it when on end. They had just now taken in the slack. We then gave several other pulls as before, gaining a little each time, till we got the frame placed upright, and did the same with the other three parts, till the four were brought together, the tenors entering the mortices, and wedged home and pinned. The clapboards were next put on, be- ginning at the bottom, that which was above the lower one overlapping it about an inch, and the two fixed together by a single nail, which also prevented the wet from getting in. Lastly, the shingle was put on, and the house baptized by a name of the proprietor's choosing, spoken in poetry, and which ceremony was performed by a person standing on the upper wall-plate with a greybeard of spirits in his hand, which he cast away, using certain words, which I noted down, but lost on my voyage home along with other things. I might state the cost of this erection, but shall leave it to Mr Stuart and others. After the whole was concluded, we adjourned, and spent a happy night together ; the foreigner was looked upon with respect ; no drunkenness — danc- ing went on, the proprietor of the house playing the fiddle, which he did well. One evening I was invited to an " apple-bee *" at the house of Mrs M'Queen, a widow lady who re- sided a few miles from my nepheM'. As this species of amusement is peculiarly national and character- istic, and has not been described, so far as I know, by any other writer, I think it proper to give a few specimens. I have frequently had occasion to be of opinion that society in America, more es- pecially in the less populous districts^ is etill to a I ! IN THE BACK-WOODS. 197 great extent iii its infancy ; and the reader will pro- bably consider that opinion strengthened by the puerile and frivolous sports of which I am now about to give an account. Our party arrived about sun-down ; the stranger was made welcome, and a chair set for him nearest the fire, a large blazing wood one. A number of ladies were employed tak- ing the rind off the apples, dividing them into quar- ters, and taking out the seeds ; while others strung the pieces on cords with a needle, and hung them in festoons on the walls inside and outside of the house, till they were completely dry, to be afterwards boiled with sugar and water and eaten. The ladies were all neatly dressed, some in silk and others in cotton ; they sat very quietly in a group by themselves, seemingly anxious to get their work soon over, and rarely looking up, except when a new visitor arrived, when an occasional titter or giggle might be heard. The gentlemen were in a group also, and employed in a similar manner, some having paring machines to strip the skin off the apples. The room was large ; and I counted forty males and forty-five females. A glass of cyder was occasionally served round, but the most perfect silence was observed. I whispered to a person beside me, " The lads and lasses in my country would not be so quiet." " Oh," said he, " stop a little — you will see by and bye that we can be as merry hero, as your people "" Finding myself the only idler, I requested to be allowed to assist, which was granted me, but apparently with reluc- tance. T then offered to sing them a Scotch song, which was listened to ; but still no interruption to the silence maintained by the rest of the company. " By and bye," our entertainer said, " we shall have enough." The company now went out to a brook that gur- gled past the house, and washed their hands, the lads 198 DOMESTIC LIFE and lasses seeming now a little more merry. Dur- ing their short absence, the room was swept, and all the ap])les removed ; and on their return the la- dies and gentlemen again sat down in groups by themselves — still not a word was spoken. Tarts and cyder were handed round by the lady of the house and her two young daughters tastefully dressed. The sport» of the evening then commenced with the following play : Act Ist, — " Marching to Quebec.*" — (This is quite national). A gentleman steps into the middle of the room, and eyeing the ladies with a keen glance, selects a partner, and leads her by the hand into the middle of the floor, then putting his arm round her neck, salutes her (kissing is very common in America, and the ladies rarely blush). They then march together round the room, singing the following words : The drums are loudly beating — the British are retreating. The Americans are advancing — and we'll unward to Quebec. When they come round to the spot they started from, the lady on the floor selects another gentle- man, who salutes her ; her late partner acts in a similar manner, and the two couples march round the room singing the same words. This ceremony goes on till the whole party are on the floor. Jet 2rf.— " Dodging the Devil."— The ladies and gentlemen being again all seated as before, the two parties stand up, leaving a small space between them and the seats. The gentleman at the head takes the hand of the lady opposite, leads her into the midst, and putting an arm round her neck, salutes her ; they then walk together between the lines singing. The lady darts off*, and the gentleman pursues till he catches her, when he again salutes her, and con- ducts her to the foot of the row. The next couple IN THE BACK-WOODS. 199 then commence in the same manner, and so on till the whole have gone through. Act 3d. — " Lose the Supper." — The whole com- pany being formed into a circle, a lady and gen- tleman alternately, a gentleman goes into the mid- dle, turns himself round, and selects a lady. He then leads her into the middle of the circle, and salutes her, when she darts ofF, and he pursues ; and if she does not get into her former place, she must stand in the midst and select a gentleman, who sa- lutes her ; and then she darts oft' as before through the ring (for they must take their places from be- hind). Should the gentleman get into her place, she has to repeat the same ceremony again and again, and be kissed by every one she selects. This creates a great deal of laughter and merriment, especially if the lady be often beaten. Act \th. — " Pleased or not pleased."— A gentle- man steps into the centre of the room, and turning round to the ladies, selects one, leads her into the midst, and salutes her. As she appears to be angry and sulky, he leads her back to her seat, regretting, as it were, that he should have offended her. She is still cross and fidgetty ; and her partner says, *' Miss So- and-so, you are displeased ; what will please you ?" She answers, " If Mr So-and-so will measure so many yards of tape with Miss So-and-so, I will be pleased." Perhaps she orders twenty yards of tape to be measured, that is, twenty kisses, sometimes on the brow, the cheeks, the mouth, the hand, the foot, on bended knees, through the back of a chair, through the tongs, or in the bob-stay fashion — which last is performed by the gentleman kneeling on one of his knees, and seating the lady on the other, their hands being folded round each other's necks, and sometimes back to back, kissing over each other's shoulders. The first lady being now restored to good humour, another is selected, who appears sulky in her turn, 200 DOMESTIC LIFS and has to be propitiated in a similar manner, and so on. Aci 5th. — The company being formed into a cir- cle, a gentleman seated in a chair in the centre, they walk round him singing,—- Here are as many wives as are stars in the skies, Some are as old as Adam — Stand on your feet, and kiss complete, Your humble servant. Madam. The gentleman rises, selects a lady, takes her on his knee, puts his hand round her neck, and salutes her, then seats her in the chair, and retires. The rest of the party continue walking round her ring- ing*— Here are as many boys as are stars in the skies, Some are as old as Moses, Stand on your feet, and kiss complete- Take care, don't bump your noses. She now rises, and selects a gentleman, who seats himself, and repeats the same ceremony as before. Sometimes the rhyme is changed to the following words : My love is little and pretty. She wears a little straw hat. Her cheeks are as red as a cherry. Her eyes are black as jet ; Why cant I love my love, Why cant she love. Why cant I love my love. Better than any body ? Act 6tk. — The company being formed in two rows like a country-^ance, the gentleman at the head takes hold of the lady opposite with both hands cross- wise, and suiting the action to the word, sings as follows : First a step advance — now again retire, First this hand — then that hand, Is all my heart's desire. ^"''•IMKE-^ IN THE BACK-WOODS. 201 He now puts his arm round her neck, salutes her, and sings— Now we '11 cast off all wordly cares, And meet again in bliss ; Come walk with me, my dearest dear, And take a social kiss. again suiting the action to the word. They then walk hand in hand doAvn hetween the lines, singing till they reach the foot, when he salutes her, and the next couple commence. — Sometimes the following words are used, with a slight variation in the figure : Arise, my true love, and present me with your hand, And we will march together to some far distant land, To some far distant land my true love and I will go, And we'll settle on the banks of the pleasant Ohio-^ Where the girls do card and spin, And the boys do plough and sow, And we'll settle on the banks of the pleasant Ohio. Act ^th. — The company again in a circle, with a gentleman in the centre, who selects a lady, leads her in, put his arms round her neck, and salutes her. They now stand up together, holding each other's hands high up to allow the whole party to pass through between them, while the two sing, — The needle's eye it goes so swift, The thread it runs so true, It has caught many a smiling lass. And now it has caught you. At this last word they lower their hands and cap- ture a lady, who is saluted by the gentleman ; the first lady now retires to her seat — the arms are held up as before, and a lady and gentleman alternately caught till the whole have had their turn. Act Qth. — The company standing in a circle as before, a chair is set in the midst, which is taken by 202 DOMESTIC LIFE a gentleman, who looks disconsolate. The company march round him singing, — Here is a young man fonakenr, He has a contented mind, And tho^ his true love has left him. He will get another as kind ; He will get another as kind, Sir, . I will nave you for to know, He is so well provided for, He has two strings to his bow. He rises and selects a lady, sits down on the chair, takes her on his knee, puts his arm round her neck, and salutes her ; he then leaves her sitting on the chair, and to go through a similar course. — Occa- sionally the same figure is gone through to the fol- lowing words :— O, Brother Jonathan, how merry were we That night we sat under the juniper tree, The juniper tree, he.ho ! Rise up. Brother Jonathan, and choose you a woman ; Best to have a good one, or else to have no one. And see she be handsome and young. with the words altered when the female^s turn comes round. Act 9ih. — The company all standing on the floor, a lady and a gentleman alternately, holding each other by the hand ; one of the ladies stands in the centre apparently weeping, with a handkerchief in her hand, which she occasionally applies to her eyes. The rest walk hand in hand around her singing,— Over hill and mountain, The fields are covered with snow. There is a chrystal fountain, Where murmuring waters flow, There stands a young maiden forsaken. Lamenting over the green. Crying Chanie, Charlie, Charlie, Come to my arms again. *!/ IN THE BACK-WOODS. 203 The lady now chooses a gentleman as her Charlie, who puts his arm round her neck, and salutes her ; she then retires, and the company continue to march round the gentleman, who in like manner seems grieved, and wipes his eyes with a handkerchief, singing the same words, with the substitution of the word " Sally'' instead of Charlie, — and so on. Act \Oth. — The party all on the floor in two rows'; the gentleman at the head takes the lady's hand op- posite, puts his arm round her neck, salutes her, and then marches with her to the bottom, singing,— Hey Charlie Cole, are ye waking yet ? The drums and fifes are beating yet ; If you are waking, I will wait, And we'll kiss our girls in the morning. When Charlie Cole heard tell of this, He thought it would not be amiss To give his girl a hearty kiss, And to stop with her till morning. When they come to the bottom, after again salut- ing, each falls into their several ranks, and the rest follow in the same manner, till the whole have gone through. Act Wth. — The company being all serted, a gen- tleman rises, and going to the ladies' side, selects a partner and salutes her; the couple then mardi down the floor singing. It's a very pleasant night, Since a long stormy day, We are going to the ball, boys, Fal lal de ray I We are going to the ball, boys, And will dance till it be day. And we do not care a cent What the old people say. " And so it is day," I exclaimed, as the play con- cluded just when the sun had begun to throw his light on the eastern sky. The party now broke up. 204 DOMESTIC LIFE after an entertainment in which there was no drun- kenness nor quarrelling, every one seeming only to enjoy the fun that was going fonrard. We had many country dances between the acts ; sometimes we par- took of a piece of sweet-cake, home-baken, but even in eating we were temperate. Next day I called with a copy of the last nighfs entertainment, which I presented to Mrs M 'Queen, who prized it highly. This lady and her husband had emigrated from Thomhill, in Scotland, many years ago, and had never been happy. She appeared still more miser- able when she heard I was about to return, and beg- ged that I would take one or both of her daughters with me, who however, she said, M'ere in happy ignorance of the comforts of home^ a phrase she could never apply to the country of her adoption. The soil of her farm, which she had long occupied, was exhausted, her husband was dead, and she ex- pected shortly to be under the necessity of hiring out her son and two daughters as helps. After a life of toil, and hardship, and privation, she had no pros- pect in her old age but misery. Many were the evils she denounced against the person who had en- trapped her to come here. *' Oh," said she, weep- ing aloud, " that I could but get back ! Surely you will take one of my daughters M'ith you ; they are both smart, and can turn their hands to nny thing."" I was exceedingly grieved at her distressed situa- tion, but was compelled, from my funds being then low, to decline her request. A Methodist camp-meeting, which was to last eight days, being about to be held at Harrisina, in our neighbourhood, my nephew proposed that we should go thither on a Saturday, sleej) in bufialo hides all night, and remain another day if I thought proper ; adding that, as his sister was married to the son of Mr Harris, the proprietor of the place, I might afterwards, if I chose, spend a few days with IN THE BACK-WOODS. iyjo her. He accordingly yoked his waggon and pair, and away we went. Having got sate over several of those frail wooden bridges previously describi'd, and when about to cross another, one of our horses, of M'hich this of my nephew'^s was the best pair in all the country-side, fell through the loose planks of the bridge, which providentially was not very high, and was severely cut and lamed. As I understood he was himself one of the road-trustees for the dis- trict, I asked my nephew upon whom he would have recourse for damages on account of the injury his horse had sustained. He made no reply, but, be- stowing a few hearty curses on the bridge, took some rails from a wooden fence in the neighbourhood, and laid them across the chasm, saying that he should have it repaired when he returned. Having bor- rowed another horse from a farmer not far distant, we proceeded through woods and wilds, sandy plains and marshes, at times trundling over huge stones and stumps of trees, till we arrived at our place of destination. A great concourse of people, with an infinite variety of vehicles, had already preceded us ; and I was told that at meetings such as this some think nothing of coming six hundred miles to attend them. My nephew, as well as many others, had brought a sufficient quantity of hay, corn, and mashed Indian corn for his horses, together with provisions for ourselves. The horses and steers belonging to the different parties were accommodated in Mr Harris's parks at six cents per night ; this was a good wind- fall for him, and no mistake. Neither was there any mistake in his having granted the use of his woods for the purpose of holding the meeting, as he calculated upon disposing of part of his hay and oats to the assembled multitude. We now entered the wood, the preacher's voice being loud enough to guide us to the place of ren- S I 206 DOMESTIC LIFE dezvous. The spot selected having been previously cleared of the brush-wood, we found the audience seated on rows of benches composed of fallen trees, which had been dragged to the spot and chopped into proper lengths for the purpose, clap-boards l)e- ing placed over some to make them more commodi- ous, and an open space left between for a passage. There were six divisions of benches, three in a line, the centre one nearest the preacher being inclosed by a rail and occupied by the joined members, and the rest by strangers. Being dressed in a blue coat, black hat and vest, and shepherds-plaid trowsers, I was readily distinguished as a foreigner, my tone of voice also betraying me ; and many a scrutinizing stare I got. The preacher, attended by eight others, was holding forth on a platiform supported by stumps of trees, and fastened by means of strong grass to others near at hand. The platform had a covering on the top to cause the sound to spread, or, in case of rain, to ward it off not the individuals but their bibles. The congregation had a grotesque appear- ance. Some of the men had hats, some night-caps, some handkerchiefs tied round their heads, and some were bare-headed ; the devotees had the handker- chief tied on from under their chin, with the hat or night-cap above, which gave them the appearance of so many Knights of the Rueful Countenance, while their pale thin visages and long lank hair might hare suited the real Simon Pure himself The militiamtister was certainly a treat of its kind, but this was still richer ; though I could not doubt, from the prolonged keys and groans that accompa- nied the conclusion of the orator's periods, that the actors in this whimsical exhibition were perfectly se- rious. After the exhortation, an old woman in the square occupied by the initiated knelt down, and in a fervent strain prayed loud and long, and heyed away at a great rate, the saints ejacula- ting Hear, hear, and pouring out, as before, loud m. IN TnS BACK-WOODS. 207 and lengthened groans. Some of Wesley's hymns were then beautifully sung, afti>r which the knights of the rueful countenance collected the money in plates, which they handed round to each of the company. The one who collected from our party did not seem to have gathered much ; and as my nephew seemed to recognize him, I enquired what sort of character he bore. My nephew replied that he was an idle worthless scoundrel who would rather do any thing than work ; and he had no doubt, for all their heya and groans and alas's, and prim puri- tanical looks, that they were all alike good for no- thing characters and sharpers. The service being concluded for the present, some lighted fires on the ground and set about cooking ; others went to tents where there was a bar at the outside for the sale of spirits or cyder, but no seats— the Americans at their taverns always drink stand- ing and in public. Pots and pans, and even stoves were in requisition, the latter of which, I was told, are very commonly lent on hire for the purpose. A number messed together, and others by themselves ; salted pork, and shad fried or boiled according to people^s liking, were prepared. The tents were com- posed of quilts or cotton sheets thrown over cross- poles M'hich rested on stumps or the branches of young trees, the cloth in some instances i*eaching to the ground, and in others fully three feet from it. There were also a sort of wig-wams made of the brushwood that had been cut down, and shanties ; and many bivouacked under the waggons like our gypsies. Indeed the whole of this encampment for- cibly reminded me of a military bivouack, the wag- gons representing the artillery and baggage-train, and the persons who sold spirits and merchandize the camp-suttlers and camp-followers. The scene also resembled in many respects a country fair. s a ^ .4MwM.>«>4.:«bi '^HMO^k 208 DOMESTIC LIFE H After the company had got some refreshment, wor- ship again commenced by singing". I went further into the woods to listen to the effect at a distance ; it was really grand, and forcibly recalled the idea of our Covenanters, M'ho had to assemble in glens and muirs, not being permitted to worship their Maker in their own way in places of more easy access. But the circumstances of the two were very different ; our Covenanters acted against the law, and were in peril — the Americans have laws made expressly for the regulation of camp-meetings ; and they do re- quire them as a stimulus, for I never saw men so listless, particularly those of the third generation of settlers and downwards. At sun-down, a large stump about nine feet high was selected as a beacon light, sand being put upon it, and stones round the edges, to allow the wood to burn, and prevent the embers from falling. The congregation now went into each other''s tents pray- ing and exhorting ; some got notoriously drunk and made a disturbance, to the great scandal and ridi- cule of the brethren. At about ten most of the company went to sleep, some having feather-beds, some straw and hay, some lying on the soft brush- wood, some on the clap-boards, some on the plat- form itself, and some on the waggons or under them. Whether the men and women lay promiscuously I do not know, but during worship they sat apart. My nephew and I rolled ourselves in the buffalo skins, and lay down on the hay in our waggon, the horses' gear being laid underneath us lest any one in want of such articles might borrow and forget to replace them. The chirping of crickets and grass- hoppers made an excellent lullaby, which continued till morning. I am not sure whether sentinels were placed, but rather think it probable that each per- son guarded his own. About one in the morning a heavy rain came on, accompanied by thunder, which IN THE BACK-WOODS. 209 eiFectually silenced our drunken disagreeable neigJi- bours. Those in the tents were thoroughly soaked, but my buffalo skin protected me completely ; and after the storm was over I fell sound asleep, and dreamt I was in my own bed at home. In the morning when I awoke, I found every one busy cooking, singing, exhorting, or praying in each others tents, or in groups apart, for which the forest gave an excellent opportunity; and I thought, from the loudness and vehemence with which they all spoke, that they wished to drown each other^s voices. I went into the wood to hear what effect the hubbub would have in the distance ; and as the sound gradually died on my ear, it seemed to me as if they were quarrelling ; but the dreary loneliness of the spot implied that this could hardly be the case. I then made a circuit of the encamp- ment ; the number of the waggons would have formed no mean barricade to oppose an enemy, though it would not have served to keep out the wild-beasts, if there had been any, but of which th^re are none except the panther. The bear that has been so much spoken of is a harmless little crea- ture, which a man with a good stick can easily keep off or kill. It is now, however, becoming scarce. The morning was fine — the sand, having imbibed the rain, was not so disagreeable. Wag- gons drawn by steers or horses, gigs and noddies of every variety, equestrians and pedestrians of all grades, were pouring in in great numbei*s. This being Sunday was the best for seeing the exhibi- tion, and was really like a fair day in a country village. At eight o'clock matters were arranged for the day's devotions, and the ladies and knights of the rueful countenance took their positions within the rails ; they really looked dismal this morning, men and women, both young and old, praying aloud by turns to the very top of their lungs, and sighing s3 210 DOMESTIC LIFE I U iiii and groaning at a fearful rate. One old woman, with not a tooth in her head, prayed with great eloquence, the handkerchief tied over her cap, her gray hairs spread over her brow, her features pale, thin, and withered. Young women in America, though pale-faced, are not generally ill-looking ; but an old American woman looks perfectly hideous. Many of the younger ones were well painted, and resembled the scenery of their country, as delineated by many of our travellers, which looks best on paper, or at a distance. About ten, a preacher well dressed in black came forward on the platform ; he had a good voice, and seemed very devout and eloquent. His tones re- verberating among the trees had a richness which is still strongly impressed on my mind, and will pro- bably remain a long time, if I ever forget it. In allusion to the disgraceful conduct of some of the party on the previous night, whom he mentioned by name, he said the congregation were mot here to worship their Maker in their own way, having no weapons in their hands, their weapon being the word of God contained in that book (holding up the bible). " But," continued he, in a clear distinct voice, ** though seemingly unarmed, we are armed ; and if the same disgraceful conduct occurs again, you will find to your cost that we are prepared to put the law in force." He then read from the Ame- rican Statute Book the laws relating to camp-meet- ings, which appeared to me strict enough, and bad© them beware — though they should have the audacity to insult the Almighty by annoying harmless unof- fending individuals, he would convince them to their cost that they dared not at least to infringe the laws of America. At this time I happened to be stand- ing on one side of the ladies'* division, and feeling wearied, inadvertently sat down on one of their seats. A knight of the rueful countenance immediately came forward and told me that this was the ladies' ..a*^'&*.'»^-au. ufA^^iw, IN THE BACK-WOODS. 211 side, and made me an object of observation, at the same time pointing out the range for males. The ser- mon, though excellent of its kind, was long and ramb- ling, beginning with Genesis, and ending with Reve- lations. In the course of his argument, the preacher opened his battery against 13ritain, fixing his snake-like stare upon me; he mentioned our persecutions, how we had banished our brethren to other countries, be- cause they could not retain " the enormous faith of many made for one ;*" inveighed against our want of faith in treaties; pronounced us a nation of atheists, declaring that our best men wtie leaving us every year in thousands, with a great deal more of similar abuse. Then, in a smooth and whining tone, he touched upon some of our good qualities, such as translating and sending bibles and missionaries to every known country, thus at the eleventh hour making amends for our former bad conduct — this part of the oration reminded me of a blink of sunshine after a hurri- cane. He spoke throughout rapidly, clearly, and distinctly, without reading. In those parts which seemed to be addressed as it were to myself individual- ly, I took care to return the orator''s rude gaze, stand- ing up with my arms akimbo, and quite prepared for the worst he could utter. I seemed like some unfor- tunate wight on the cutty-stool, all eyes being direct- ed upon me. At the conclusion he prayed with great earnestness ; and, addressing the audience on pecuni- ary matters, said that these meetings were no doubt expensive, but he who gave liberally in the cause of God would be repaid a thousand-fold. The knights then handed round the plates for the collec- tion, when the meeting broke up, and cooking, drink- ing, and merchandizing commenced. I ascertained that the prcacher''s name was Bidder — I shall never forget him. My nephew having recognized his sister among the group, introduced me to her, and we now drove together to her house, a wooden one; it had got 212 DOMESTIC LIFE, &C. no coat of paint that season. Harris of Harrisina, her father-in-law, lived not far distant; his house was in the same state. What a comfortless appear- ance an American house has when you come near it ! what a substantial look a mud-house has in our country, compared even with a frame-house, its scanty furniture and beds without curtains, its wood fire, and the absence of a grate ! even the stove is comfortless. We partook of a cold but plen- tiful repast at my niece's. Miss Harris of Har- risina, her mother-in-law, having entered, I was in- troduced by my niece as her uncle from Scotland. I bowed to the old lady, and taking her by the hand shook it. She returned me the American salutation, the stare, looking so intently on me that I felt quite ashamed, for I considered myself not so very diffe- rent from other men as to merit being the object of such keen scrutiny. I may notice here that my niece's children were white-haired, like all the others I have seen who are born in America ; and I have my own suspicions that many of the adults are white" blooded. As I did not feel happy in the house, I went out for some time, and viewed the fields and the orchard. When I came back, the family propos- ed to return to tlie camp-meeting for the after- noon's service. My nephew, who was about to re- turn home, pressed me to stay a few days with his sister, a proposal which she herself backed. But I preferred to go with him — indeed I told him on our road home, that had I met with as much stiffness and ceremony from my other relations as I had got from this lady, I should have been by this time, in the words of the play I had seen, " retreating on- wards to Quebec." This Harrisina is a miserable sandy country, and seems at no remote period to have been the bottom of a lake ; yet it is undulating, and for many miles I could not observe a single stone, or even a pebble. 213 CHAP. VI. DOMESTIC LIFE IN THE BACK-WOODS, CONTINUED. AN ELECTION. When I returned to my old quarters, I found that my manuscript of the plays had excited some curio- sity, most of them being traditionary. There was in the neighbourhood a Mrs M*Laren from Denny- loan-head in Scotland, who, with her husband and family, had been induced to settle here about five years ago, under the delusive prospects held out to them. They had been very comfortable at home, but, like many thousands, had thought to better their condition. They were, however, miserably disap- pointed ; the husband, as well as herself, had to hire himself out, and they struggled on for some time without making matters better. At length he re- quested a relation to lend him some money, as he wished to go to Scotland to dispose of some proper- ty he had at Denny, promising to return and pay the money. He accordingly left his wife and two chil- dren, having been upwards of two years absent when I was in the place, never having even sent a letter. This lady told me that a Mr Aldridge, her next neighbour, was to have a " Quilting Bee*" that night ; and if I would promise to write it out, as I had done Mrs McQueen's entertainment, he had said that he would keep it in remembrance of me as long as he lived. This I promised to do. I accordingly accompanied Mrs M'Laren to the house of this gentleman, whom I had met several times before. The following is a descrip- tion of the entertainment prepared for us : A square frame was fastened together at the four corners, 214 DOMESTIC LIFE I 5- and suspended from the roof. I may remark here tliat the Americans use few blankets, the duty on mooI- len goods imported being 50 per cent ; the covering on the beds may possibly be a pair, very often a single one, the rest being quilts, such as I am about to mention, perhaps a counterpane, which, however, is generally too expensive. The lining of cotton was laced to the frame, several folds of cotton cadice being laid on it, above which was placed the upper co- vering, also laced to the frame, and around the frame itself a square of clap boards for seats to the ladies. A Mr Vantassel, who kept a home or public-house at some distance, was in attendance with liquors of va- rious kinds, his bar-room being a closet. The ladies began to assemble and take their seats before sun- down, each having provided herself with quilting needles, thread being furnished to them ; a paste- board pattern was used to form the dicing, which was drawn on the cloth with chalk. After sun- down, the gentlemen began to arrive, and took their seats at a respectful distance from the ladies ; but as these fair dames knew there was no such cere- mony in my countrj'^, I was allowed a greater lati- tude, and sat between two of them, — not a word was to be heard among them, scarcely a look given, only an occasional titter perhaps. The gentlemen also were as silent as if they had been figures of wax-work ; but their feet were not idle, the see-sawing being carried on with one knee over the other by many of the company. There were 38 males and 35 fe- males present. The scene was strange, but I knew that fun and kissing were coming, and that the real bee was in their minds, though at present lying doniK&nt. The quilt was finished in about three hours, and taken down, hands washed, the frame put away, and the room swept. A fiddler, the same at whose house I had been at the raising, was en- gaged, and he could play well; refreshmeuts were IN THE SACK-WOODS. 215 handed round to each, the women and men sitting separate, with the solitary exception of myself. The mirth began with the play, " The British are retreating, and the Americans are advancing." Then country dances commenced, with an occasional play, such as I have formerly noticed. The next was a new one, which I shall here insert. " The Grandees of Spain.'^ — A lady is seated in a chair at the end of the room, the rest of the com- pany likewise seated, the ladies on the one side and the gentlemen on the other. A gentleman rises, and taking hold of another gentleman''s hand, leads him towards the lady in the chair, and says, Here is a knight just come from Spain, He means to court your daughter Jane. Lady Mother. — My daughter Jane, she is too young, To be caught by your flattering tongue. Gentleman. — Be she young or be she old, For a price slie may be sold ; But fare you well, my lady gay, For I will go another way. Lady.Mother. — Turn back, turn back, thou Spanish knight, And scour thy boots and spurs more bright. Gentleman.m^M.y boots and spurs have cost you nought, And in this land they were not bought, Nor in this land shall they be sold Neither for silver nor for gold ; So fare you well, my lady gay, For I will turn another way. — (He goes away. ) Lady-Mother. — Turn back, turn back, thou Spanish knight, And choose the fairest in thy sight. Gentleman. — ^Yes, I will choose, thanks my lady, And take the fairest that I see. He now looks . among the ladies, and selects one, takes her by the hand, leads her into the centre, and putting his arm round her neck salutes her, then leads her away and seats her at the bottom. He V 216 DOMESTIC LIFE then selects a pfentleman, as the first had done, he having resumed his seat, and makes the same pro- posal to the lady-mother — and so on till the whole are gone through. The first Spanish knight now takes his lady by the hand, and leading her up to her lady-mother, puts his arm round her neck, and salutes her, — she seems to be sore lamed with hard walking, and has also a halt. The knight says to the lady in the chair, " Is this your daughter ?'' She replies angrily, " No." He then leads his lady away, threatens, scolds, and beats her, while she promises to beha>'e better ; sometimes she will not till she gets several beatings. At last, however, she behaves herself, and is again led up to her mother by the knight, who puts his arm round her neck, kisses and fondles her ; he then says to the old lady, " Madam, is this your daughter .?" and she answers, " Yes." The knight now says, — Here is your daughter safe and sound, And in her pocket a thousand pound, On every finger a gay gold ring ; Here is your daughter back again. — (He then retires.) The mother bids her daughter take off her glove, and perceiving that she has no gold rings on her fingers, says " Where are the rings .''" " I never had any," she replies. *' Where is your thousand pounds .f*" " I never had them." " How did he use you .?" " Very ill." " What had you to eat ?" " Mud." " What had you to drink ?" " Muddy water." " Where did you lie ?" '* On needles and pins, the points uppermost." The mother gets into a rage, rises and pursues the Spaniard, overtakes him, and thrashes him w^ell with a stick. This ceremony is continued till all the parties are gone through. " The Manual Exercise." — The whole com- e, he pro- vhole iy by other, — she id has in the igrily, jutens, behave several 'If, and t, who js her ; is your knight tires.) r glove, on her never lousand did he o eat ?" Muddy les and rets into vertakes :. This ire gone >le com- IN THE BACK-WOODS. 217 pany formed into a circle, a lady and a gentleman alternately ; a gentleman standing in the midst says, *' Attention ! put your left hands on your right shoulders every one.*" (Done). " Put your right hand on your left shoulder — be steady ; kneel down on your right knee every one — be steady.^' One of the circle leans against his neighbour, and over- balances him, when the shock being communicated to the rest, in a moment they are all lying sprawling on the floor. They then rise up and run to their seats. " The Ladies^ Toilet." — The company being all seated, the ladies and gentlemen separate, a chair is set in the midst, which is taken by one of the former. She proposes going out to visit, and re- quiring some finery alleges how very awkward it is for her to visit Miss Such-a-one, and others, who will all be dressed. One of the ladies then offers to lend her a petticoat, another a pair of stockings, a third gloves, and so on, every one offering some- thing. (They do not give them, but only say so.) She goes out, and returns again ; and throwing off her finery, asks each what article of dress they had lent her, when, if any of them claims an article which they did not previously say they had given, she orders a gentleman to kiss her it may be twenty times. This is a stirring play. The lady now leaves the chair, which is taken by another, and the same form is repeated. Matters were kept up %vlth great spirit by the dancers, of whom Mrs IVI'Laren was decidedly the best ; she was frequently asked to perform by herself, which she did gracefully. A young man challenged her, saying he would dance her down, but she fairly beat him. Several of the company congratulated me on the activity and noble carriage of my country- woman, and asked if the Scottish girls could all T 'i f. / 218 DOMESTIC LIFK (lance as well ; I said it was not uncommon for our servant girls to spend half a year's wages in order to acquire this graceful accomplii^hment, and it was always reckoned a part of female education. The last play was, as on the former occasion, " We will dance till it is day, and we don't care a cent what the old folks say ;" — and it was day when the play ended. I was invited to many apple-bees, quilting-bees, and husking-bees, in the neighbourhood, every one vieing with another to show me all that was to be seen. Miss M*Laren (I ought to have stated before that all the married ladies here are styled Miss) having told me that she intended to invite to her house a distant relation of hers from Cambridge, New Eng. land, named Ferguson, with an Esquire appended, along with a party, requested that I would make one of the number. This gentleman, she said, was a wealthy farmer, and had come to this quarter to marry a cousin of his own, whom he had i^t^lected merely for her good looks (a very uncommon reason of preference in America). As the people of the New England States think there are none so intelli* gent and refined as themselves, he had taken the li- berty, only the day before, of designating the good people of Lucerne, in her presence, as little better than hogs, and railed against them at a great rate. She wished much I had been present on that occa- sion to humble his pride a little, and begged I would not fail to meet him at her small party tomorrow. '* O yes, Madam," I replied, " I will certainly come ; nothing pleases me^ better than to have a tilt with a saucy American. You were champion at the quilting-bee, and I shall do my best to be victor at this meeting ; it will be some honour to our country, since the people say that you are the best dancer, if I am considered the best speaker.'' ' ill IN THE BACK-WOODS. 219 good ** You will have plenty of opportunity,*' said she, ** for he cannot hold his peace a moment." Next day, accordingly, I went to the house along with my nephew ; was introduced to the newly mar- ried lady as being lately from Scotland, and to her husband, the highly polished New Englander. I took hold of his hand and shook it ; he ceased for a moment the hobby-horse exercise in which he wan indulging, for he was upon a rocking chair, and fixed a snake-like stare upon me. I stood before him and returned it, till he was satisfied ; and when he withdrew his keen eyes from me, I did the same. Miss McLaren having put down a chair, not a rocking one however, for me to sit beside him, I began the conversation by enquiring whether he had ever been in Boston, to which he replied yes. ** It is quite a civilized place," said I. " Yes," he re- plied. ** Have you been at New York ?" ** Yes.'"" ** It is quite a business place." " Yes." In short, I found, after speaking on many things, even about his own profession, such as crops, soil, and cattle, I could get nothing out of him but a monosyllable. I saw he was getting impatient at my interrogato- ries, for he set the rocking-chair a-going at a great rate, with one knee over the other ; 1 had edged my chair a little round in order to be more in view of him, and was now obliged to draw back, lest his feet should strike my face. It is a common but very dis- agreeable practice with the Americans, after having repleted themselves, as they term it, to sit upon a rock- ing-chair, and swing to and fro belching at a terrible rate. On the present occasion, besides the danger I incurred of being kicked, I was nearly stifled with the belching of this New England dandy, who, in addition to his other qualifications, was the prince of spitters. I was truly glad when he rose and left me, taking his rocking-chair along with him, . T 2 220 DOMESTIC LIFE and seating himself in front of the ladies, with his back to the gentlemen, spreading his knees in such a manner as actually to take in three of the ladies^ knees between them. He then commenced laugh- ing in a most obstreperous manner, when I rapped smartly on the table, and called order, proposing a vote of censure on Squire Ferguson for turning his back on part of the company, and monopolizing three of the ladies, when there Mere several wanfers among us, myself for one. I said I had no objection to his taking his own lady on his knee if he chose, and rocking with her, and kissing her, though I beg. ged to recommend him to do so decently before folks ; and I would thank him to remove his chair to a side, that we might see each other, when I would sing them a Scottish song. This proposal seemed to give satisfaction. I sang the song, ** Be- have yourselves before folk," the chorus running, " When we're our lane, you may tak' ten, but ay be douce before folk.**' The party seemed highly pleased with my performance, and honoured me with an encore ; the bride, however, blushed. The squire now yoked on me for insulting him, as he said ; I asked if he had ever read Chesterfield on Politeness, to which he replied in the negative. I said, " I have heard that all you New Englanders are great readers f he answered that he did not know the use of books. " And will you maintain," said I, " that education is of no use .''" He did not know what to say about that. " Well, Squire Ferguson," I rejoined, " I am soon to return to my own country ; many around this room know that I can take notes, and I call on them to witness how you have acted, for I will assuredly commit this scene to paper, which any one may see ; and possibly, when I go home, I may have it printed, to show my country- men how a squire conducts himself in America. I will give your name at full length, no mistake, and IN THE BACK-WOODS. 2'2\ 1* you may, if you become a reader, peruse it yourself in print." His lady, having now become very uneasy, hinted to him that it wiis time to retire ; and, the waggon being brought to the door, the sciuire and his party drove off without taking leave of me. There was an uncle of the 8quire'*s, also a Fergu- son, and an Esquire likewise to boot, a shrewd man, and reputed wealthy, but of this I had some doubts, who told me that, as I was taking notes, he had a couple to marry, and I might go along with him to witness the ceremony if I had " a mind to.'^ It is quite astonishing how fond those M'ho have the title of squire are to hear themselves named by it ; indeed the aristocracy in America, who are as fond of titles *as those in the old country, constantly append to their names captain, major, and colonel ; and I remember once, on seeing a number of these men in a bar-room, and heanng others addressing them by such titles, none of them below that of captain, it reminded me of a certain serjeant who was very successful in enlist- ing recruits, by styling them all captains, majors, colonels, and even generals. I was told by a coun- tryman of my own, who had purchased land in the back-woods, where the roads are narrow, that while driving his waggon, the Yankees whom he met, or who happened to be passing, invariably tried to jostle him, and sometimes upset his waggon ; remonstrance was of no avail, till at last he tried flattery. " Will you please to draw up. Major ?*" (or colonel, general, or squire.) This never failed to succeed. — In this land of liberty and equality one has no idea of a per- son's rank from his style of dress. I accordingly accompanied the squire in his wag- gon to the house where the marriage was to be cele- brated. The person who officiates receives a gra- tuity for his services ; but there is no publication of banns, nor registration. The house we came to, though on a level with its neighbours in point of t3 222 DOMESTIC LIFE appearance, was a loff-house of a very miserable kind both inside and outside. I have often thought that the animal propensities must be strong when people marry under such disadvantages in these wilder- nesses. In Britain, the parents indulge the hope of their children becoming more robust, wiser, hap- pier, and better than themselves ; but I never heard an American express that desire. — In my opinion, in proportion as the land is cleared of timber, the poverty and misery of the population is increased. The ladies, who were all neatly dressed, sat in a group by themselves. Among the company was an- other squire, as full of speechifying as an American squire generally is, who sagaciously remarked to me that this wilderness would be a choice place to write a novel about, and sell it to the inhabitants. " Yes,'^ I replied, " if stones, and stumps, and trees were to be the readers and purchasers." This person war a little, dumpy, chatting creature, and seemed anxious to make acquaintance with me, having known my late brother well. Conversation soon turned among the gentlemen to the universal theme dollar and dollar-getting, among the ladies to sauce and pickles. Meanwhile time was flying, the sun reminding us that he was far past his meridian ; and we had to return to our homes over roads not of the best de- scription, as those in the American uplands gene- rally are. You may have a chance not to lose the path in daylight, threading your way among stumps and stones ; but at night it requires the keen eye of an American or an Indian to keep the track. The two squires now almost got into a quarrel about who was first on the roll, who had oftenest per- formed \'ne marriage ceremony, who was the best judge in small cases, &c. &c. and therefore best en- titled to tie the knot on the present occasion. The dispute appearing to become serious, I really began to be apprehensive that there would be no marriage after all, but that matters would end in an open rup- IN THE BACK-WOODS. 223 '. kind t that leople ilder- jpe of hap- heard inion, r, the sed. it in a 'as an- lerican to me ) write ■ Yes;^ rere to I war a inxious wn my among ar and pickles. iing us had to )est de- s gene- ose the stumps 1 eye of The 1 about Bst per- ;he best )est en- The y began narriage )en rup- :. ture. I endeavoured to compromise the dispute by saying that the parties lived nearest Squire Fergu- son, that they had sent for him to perform the cere- mony, and that the other sijuire had only come as a friend and visitor; and therefore I thought that Squire Ferguson ou^ht to be allowed to officiate. The little fat squir«; was by no means pleased with my interference, and demanded to know what right 1 had to constitute myself arbiter. I admitted that I had none whatever, and stated that the fracas was of consequence to me only so far as it would af- ford a good addition to my memoranda on men and manners in America. This posed the little squire. Squire Ferguson being now regularly authorised, the marriage ceremony commenced, the ladies standi ing on one side with the bride at their head, the gentlemen on the other with the bridegroom at their head, the squire taking his station a little in ad- vance between the two lines. No prayer was given, nor marriage service read. He simply desired the bride and bridegroom to step forward between the lines, and asked them if they wished to be joined in wedlock, to which they both answered yes. He then directed the bridegroom to take hold of the bride's right hand with his left; and proceeded to run over the duties of married life, making some remarks of such a nature as made the ladies blush, and occasioned laugh- ter among the gentlemen. He now ordered them to let go each other'*s hands ; then desired the bride to take hold of the bridegroom's right hand with her left ; and said some witty things, for he really was a wit, and a wag to boot. He now declared them mar- ried people according to the laws of America, when each of the ladies saluted the bridegroom, and the gentlemen the bride. A bottle of spirits and a tum- bler were handed round, that each might pour out as much as he chose for himself, also some home- made sweet-cake ; and tea was prepared. An American divorce is nearly as simple as a mar* i« , i- 1 ft; 224 DOMESTIC LIFE rlage, and almost as common ; the women are ge- nerally the cause, and think nothing of it — it is called " clearing out." I knew a woman who, after having born fourteen children to her husband, clear- ed out in this manner ; and he did not know for a long time what had become of her. She settled here from Connecticut, and having hired herself as a help, got into the good graces of her employer, who ultimately married her. She bore him one child, who was woman-grown when I saw her. After many years separation, her first husband, hearing of her subsequent destiny, came over to see her, and having informed his successor that she had once been his, he replied that he was not aware of the fact, but that the gentleman was welcome to take her back if he pleased. No, he said, he had had her long enough, and wished her present spouse much joy. The two husbands parted good friends. One day, as I was conversing with my nephew, a person came up to him, and said, " I am going to leave these three children with you ; you have food for them, I have not ; my wife has cleared out, and left them and me. What can I do .f* I have cleared out, and am going to Michigan.*" ** Really, James," said I, " this does seem to be a free country.'" He shook his head, and said that the parents were both idle worthless creatures, and that he must send the children to the poor''s-house. A militia muster having been held at Little Falls, I was of course in attendance ; but having described one before, I need not enlarge on this. T was more respected here than at the former or hough I occasionally heard the remark, " I wish we had war with the English." The officers have no authority over the men. I got acquainted here with Judge Rockwell, Squire Faucit, Squire Wells, and several other people of consequence, including colonels, majors, iind captions ; also two surgeons and accoucheurs, Drs IN THE BACK-WOODS. 225 ce ge- -it is , after clear- for a i here ' as a ', who child, After earing er, and ;e been ict, but back if nough, he two ephew, oing to ve food lit, and cleared rames," ;' He re both end the e Falls, ascribed as more ough I lad war ithority jckwell, il other majors, urs, Drs Lawrence and Hicks, which latter wjis also a major, post-master of the place, and tavern-keeper, having a sign in front of his house, " Hicks''s Home," where he sold spirits, cyder, and medicines, over the same bar. He was also a poet, and composed songs against the British for entertainments. He used to amuse me with many of his effusions, but I did not copy any of them ; he had, what is vpry common in America, plenty of self-conceit Lawrence was apparently a man of more education, but prone to indulge in bitters, (spirits). He and I never met together but we had a war of words about the me- rits of our respecti\'e countries ; and every hole he made in the sides of Britain I found a plug for it. We generally parted friends however ; and the audi- ences in the bar-room used to listen to our disputa- tions with eagerness, sometimes assisting their cham- pion, who was reckoned the fittest hand at the Falls to cry down the British. His disputes with me were more like studied orations than arguments, and generally concluded "with the bravado that he was ready to die tor the land which had drunk the blood of his forefathers while fighting for liberty. I used to follow up this flourish by remarking that, the soil being nothing but sand, though it should be manured with dead bodies I did not think it would be much enriched ; that our swindlers, bank- rupts, and deserters, come here with much ill-got wealth, which however does not remain, but gene- rally finds its way back to the old country ; and that though these worthies no doubt leave their bodies here, the soil is not thereby enriched : " No wonder you are desirous of war with Britain ; you have some chance to gain, and have little to lose. You are a set of mere barbarians just two removes from the Arabs or Indians ; they live in huts and wig- wams, and you in wooden houses." I sometimes jocularly added, " Take care. Doctor, that I do not. I i: 226 DOMESTIC LIFE before I leave this, cause your blood to mix with the sand which has already drunk the blood of your fore- fathers.'" I observe the doctor comes to the bar-room of a morning to hear of a patient, the lawyer and petti- fogger to hear of a cause, the packman to open his pack, and the quidnuncs, gossips, and busy bodies, to hear the news or any scandal that may be going for- ward. This practice, which is general every where, will long prevent the American character from ris- ing ; these bar-rooms are a g martial, to be held at Doctor Hicks's, Little Falls, upon those who had been absent at the militia- muster. The court was composed of one major, two captains, and an adjutant, all in uniform, and good looking men. They sat in a room in the upper storey above the bar-room, several other persons besides themselves being seated at the table. I have little doubt but Dr Hicks would like a court-martial to be held in his house once a month ; at least there was plenty of drinking, and some fighting. One of the absentees being called in, the statute regarding persons absenting themselves without a proper reason was read over. Three pettifoggers were employed to conduct the defence ; they spoke by turns, and each twisted and misconstrued the clauses which had been read in a most disingenuous manner, arguing that the act had no such meaning as that put on it by the court, whose object was merely to exact the fine for their own emolument ; but that they would recommend their client to bring his case before a more competent tribunal, and not suffer himself to be wronged at the pleasure of such an assembly, composed as it was of men who did not even know the meaning of the statute they were placed there to enforce. I have formerly remarked that the officers have no authority over the men ; I saw it here distinctly. The court was completely puzzled, and did not know how to act ; and after having occupied an hour and a half, the case was at last given up, the man acquitted, and the court laughed at. When he made his appearance in the bar-room below, he was greeted with loud cheers, and his health drunk by all present. . Another case was called ; the same pettifoggers commenced, and the prisoner was in like manner acquitted. The court had evidently no authority. I sat like a statue, thinking this certainly was a free country. The u2 232 DOMESTIC LIFE pettifoggers and others would come occasionally and peep over my shoulder to see what I was writing-, and I had no hesit;«tion in shewing it. In another case, it appeared that the person had been on the field, but had not answered to his name, and wanted his accoutrements. Much pettifogging took place about this ; but the clause on that head could not be twisted, and the offender was fined in the mitigated penalty of one dollar. The next conducted his own case, stating simply that he had contracted to carry some clap-boards on that day, without remembering any thing about the muster, and submitted himself to the clemency of the court ; he was fined two dollars, for no other reason, I am quite satisfied, than that he had no one engaged to brow-beat the judges — and for this he was laughed at and jeered. As I saw he was going to be ill-used, and having uniformly been in the habit of speaking my mind freely, and generally received a hearing, I rose up, and addressing the court, said, ^* You Americans are certainly free. No launch corporal in our army would have submitted to the indignity these pettiw foggers have put upon you this day, (A laugh). Had I been in Major HalFs place, and holding his com- mission, it being ihe express design of the legisla- ture that every one should attend a militia muster, unless a sufficient excuse M'as given, I should have fined every one but this last. I am a stranger among you, and perhaps am using too much liberty in noticing things as they occur ; but when I see every one of you trying who can be kindest to me, in re- turn I am emboldened to make a few remarks when I think you in the wrong. You have acquitted Mr . Had I been on the court-martial I would have exacted from him the full penalty, and so would I from every one except that man," (pointing to the person who was last fined). This raised a loud laugh. " If the statutes," I continued, ** are wrong. IN THE BACK-WOODS. 23^3 I would advise them to seek redress at a higher tri- bunal, but so long as they are in force, I would not allow this court to be treated with contempt ; 1 would nc t let a pettifogger open his lips. The law of the land should be complied with, and no subter« fuge permitted." — There were just six cases tried that day, and the penalties recovered only amounted to three dollars in all. We now adjourned to the bar-room, where I was offered plenty of drink from all parties. One of th« pettifoggers, Mr Henry Rockwell, storekeeper, who had spoken loud, and long, and bitterly, was an inti- mate acquaintance of my own. — I learned that shortly after this another court-martial was held, and that they had taken my advice, (ining every one of the offenders. My nephew, having paid eighteen thousand dol- lars for a lot of pine and other timber, employed a number of carpenc ?rs to put together a large frame for a saw-mill, which was to have two gang^vays ; the mill and dam-head was to cost four thousand dollars. The undertaker's name was Cross. About one hundred men came to this " raising,'' as it is called ; a great number of pikes and instruments like boat-hooks were prepared for the occasion, in- cluding blocks and tackles, and plenty of spirits and provisions. This mill was to be erected on the river called Beaver Creek ; and as both its banks, as well as the bottom, were sandy and gravelly, long logs of wood were laid across the stream, and piled to the height of three logs, and sometimes more, to bring it to a level. This was continued for some yards below the mill to the dam-head. Strong beams were laid across to form this latter, and a hole dug at each bank to receive the ends, and planking pin- ned down on them. The beams had a rise of about five degrees for the first layer, the next being ^t an u3 ■•f' 234) DOMESTIC LIFE angle of ten ; planking was pinned to these also, the pins being driven through both beams and plank- ing till both were as one. Other beams were then laid across, and secured as formerly, the angle being increased to twenty, again to thirty, to forty, and to fifty. It was now a solid mass, the margms being built with wood, to prevent the sand and gravel from being washed away ; the particles of these substances lodging on the planking, and keeping it solid, rendered it much stronger than if it had been built with stone. There are similar dams across the Hudson, built in the same manner, to raise the water for the canals. The mill would be about the height of a three- storey house, the logs in the lower storey being scarcely three feet apart, and of which there were twenty-two on each side strongly morticed together. It took a great quantity of power to put them on end, the operation of raising being similar to M'hat I formerly described, Mr Cross acting as fugleman. The lower tier was about twenty feet high ; strong logs were laid on it from end to end, and mor- ticed. The second tier was not so strong nor so high. The upper wall plate and joisting haing now put on, a number of persons ranged themselves on the former, my nephew in the centre, with a grey- beard of rum in his hand, the rest of the assistants being on the bank, among whom was Mr Cross, who spoke in rhyme as follows : ** Gentlemen, " We with your help have raised this frame ; I wish to know what will be its name." Dr Hicks, a person of some standing as a medical practitioner, holding an oHice in the State, and a poet of no mean authority, answered as follows : <' As ships of fame receive their name,. When launched into the ocean, ' - So we in praise our voices raise, When mills are put in motion. »'g, IN THE BACK-WOOOS. " May this mill stand the floods of time, And cut down Uncle liAdtrer's* pine, And turn them into gold : " May Weston too be richly paid For every murk that he has made, And Cross receive tenfold ! " Bold is the frame, and rich the plan, Complete the work of every man ; Come, neighbours, list and hear — " May unborn offspring share the prize. Long as the sun is known to rise. Or stars in heaven appear ! " May sawyers too their duty do, And gears and saw-gates play right ; While wheels go round, may milUbars sound. And saw-teeth dig fur day -light ! 235 (< Its name is James Douglas Weston's Lower Saw- Mill." My nephew then, amidst much cheering, cast away the grey-beard, for which a general scramble took place, the happy man who got possession be- ing entitled to keep it and its contents as his prize. After this the whole party were driven to Rock^ ell Home, at Little Falls, where my nephew ordered the two bar-keepers. Hicks and Rockwell, to give all present as much drink as they wished, whether they had rendered assistance or not. My nephew, whose influence and respectability made him well qualified for the task, omitted no opportunity of shewing me every thing worth see- ing, as he knew my anxiety to be acquainted with • Badger Adams, the richest man in Lucerne, my nephew's futher-in-law. This gentleman took great pleasure in telling me how many of the British he had shot during the War (3' Independence ; he was a regular boaster, and never wearied in fighting his battles o'er again. I " 236 AN ELECTION. the manners and customs of the place. Accordingly, an election of a Member to Congress being about to take place, in which he and four others were ap- pointed by the Government a committee to conduct the proceedings, I had my curiosity on this head gratified to the fullest extent. The polling, which lasted three days, commenced in a tavern called Van tassel's Home ; the candidates being a Mr Archbold and a Mr M'Donald, re- presentatives of the two parties of General Jack- son and Henry Clay, between whom a keen contest was to take place. The voters came flocking from all quarters, some in waggons, some on horseback, and some on foot ; and, as they arrived, they all adjourned in the first instance to the bar-room, which was quite crammed by the time the proceed- ings commenced. Among the crowd assembled I observed several imbecile persons, a class of unfor- tunates of whom, I had repeatedly remarked, Ame- rica possesses a more than ordinary proportion, and which is strongly perceptible wherever numbers are congregated together. The committee met in one of the side-rooms, where the ballot was to take place. One of them politely accommodated me with a seat, together M^th implements of writing to take notes if I thought proper. When every thing was got ready, Dr Hicks, one of their number, proceeded to the bar-room, where the electors were assembled, with a volume of the American Statutes in his hand, and began to read the proclamation regarding the elec- tion. The words were, " Hear ye ! hear ye ! hear ye ! The election lor a Member to Congress, and one for the Synod, is opened : It is also requested to know whether the freemen of the State of New York should elect the Mayor of New York, or whether the citizens of it should elect him : Also for a_repeal of the Salt Duties. — All parties attending he pion read! lingly, about jre ap- onduct 3 head nenced didates Id, re- [ Jack- contest ig from •seback, hey all r-room, n'oceed- nbled I f unfor- d, Ame- on, and bers are 3-rooins, of them together es if I t ready, 1 to the d, with ind, and he elec- e ! hear ress, and equested of New fork, or Also for ittending AN ELECTION. 237 the same are strictly charged and commanded, by the authority and in name of The People, to keep the peace while the election is going on, upon pain of fine and imprisonment."" Every person of the legal age was entitled to vote, under the following provisions — that he had been one year in the county, and six months in the township — that he had not committed any crime, or been confined in the state- prison — was of sound mind — and had paid the fees of entry and enrolment, being five dollars {£1. 2s. 6d. sterling.) The election now commenced. Each voter, .is he came in, was furnished with a ballot — a small piece of paper about an inch square — upon which the name of the candidate he meant to support was printed. My nephew took charge of the ballot-box, the form of which was square, and resembled a small tea-chest in size and shape. It had four locks and keys, each of different workmanship, and a slit in the top for the insertion of the ballots. Another of the committee took down the voters' names, and received their ballots, which he handed to my nephew, who opened them in such a way as to satisfy himself that there was not more than one presented by each elector, but without reading them. The agents and friends of both parties were very active in canvassing the voters, in making objec- tions to such as had declared for the other side, or plying freely with drink such as had not yet made up their minds. Several of the agents on both sides, when they saw an elector come forward who ap- peared to be of a simple disposition, or under the influence of drink, dexterously contrived, under the pretence of seeing whether he had got the proper ballot, to get it into their OM'n hands, when they would slily substitute the name of their own cham- pion (having ballots under the sleeve of their coat ready prepared for this shabby trick) and return it. I ■I S38 AN ELECTION. I folded up exactly as before, into the hands of their un- suspecting dupe. Some of these manoeuvres having been detected by the opposing agents and commit- tees, who were beginning to wax warm with zeal and drink, much brawling and disturbance ensued. I saw several voters brought up by the agents to the table in a state of beastly intoxication. At this stage of the proceedings, the noise and uproar in the bar-room had increased to such a height, that I was induced to leave my place at the table, and hurry to the scene of action. There I beheld no less than four parties engaged in single combat at the same moment. The cause of quarrel, of course, ^^^as politics, their passions having been previously inflamed with the liquor they had drunk, and the coarse and scurrilous language employed on such occasions. It was not a manly stand-up fight such as we see in Britain, but a cowardly system of biting, kicking, and tearing, which T am satisfied no place but America could have exhibited. I had often before suspected that the Americans were white- blooded ; but I can vouch for the fact that the blood which flowed so profusely on this occasion was really redf and no mistake. One of the combatants got part of his ear bitten away, and another part of his nose ; some of them had their clothes torn into tat- ters ; and one honest gentleman, like Bailie Nicol Jarvie in a similar predicament, came off minus his coat-tail. My attention was next directed to a battle-royal betwixt a gentleman named Thurlow and a person apparently of the lowest rank. I im- mediately rushed in between the combatants, and having taken Mr Thurlow aside, succeeded in con- vincing him of the extreme impropriety of a gentle- man in his station fighting with one so much his inferior. His nose was bleeding profusely, and both breasts of his coat, of fine English cloth, had been tofu away in the scuffle. The scene altogether was /liSfr leir iin- havhig' ommit- th zeal ensued. ;s to the Ise and such a 3 at the There I n single quarrel, ng been 1 drunk, loyed on -up fight lystem of tisfied no lad often e white- he blood ras really ;ants got art of his into tat- lie Nicol minus his ted to a Thurlow I im- Eints, and in con- a gentle- much his and both had been ether was AN ELECTION. 239 most disgraceful, and made me almost fancy myself once more among the one-eyed savages of Kentucky, and the Highlands of Pennsylvania, as Mr Cham- bers calls them. Silence being in some measure restored, I returned again to my notes. A person completely intoxicated presented his ballot to my nephew, which he re- fused to put in the boy, as his name had not been previously enrolled. At this the man put on a savage look, and fastening his snake-like eyes upon me said, " I know that in Mr Weston's country I should not have a vote because I am poor ; but I am in a free country, and shall have my vote."** I started to my feet at the commencement of this address, lest I should be taken unawares, and re- turned the felb .'\s stare. At this moment, Mr Mer- ton, who is mi"*: 1 to one of my nieces, came up and objected t« I vote being received, on the ground of his not having been long enough do- miciled in the district, and also having been in the state-prison. The man instantly left me, and pounced upon Mr Merton like a panther (said to be the only rabid animal in America) and tore the breasts of his coat completely away. He then com- menced abusing the members of the board ; when Dr Hicks, having written out a mittimus, which was signed by each of the committee, put it into the hands of four constables, who were in attendance in the bar-room, in order that they might convey this refractory person to prison. None of them would put the warrant into execution. Here the principal scene of attraction shifted once more to the bar-room, from whence a loud crashing noise Avas heard of chaii*s and benches knocked about. The independent electors were again at work with renewed energy. It was now seriously proposed to adjourn the proceedings ; but ! m il! ^.ai 240 AN ELECTIOii. the motion M'as overruled, and matters allowed to go on. While I was busily employed in noting down these various particulars, my nephew suggested to me that, however much he had hitherto indulged me in taking down whatever I thought worthy of ob- servation, he could not consent to my recording what had passed that day. I immediately rose, and addressing the committcje said, " Gentlemen, having visited America, I am happy to return my best thanks to one and all of you for your kindness to me hitherto, and also for the atttntion shewn me this day. I have seen America in various situations —1 have been at marriages and divorces — I have been at bees, banquets, and balls — I have been at funerals — and," addressing Dr Hicks, " I have your invitation to a quilting. I am now about to return home, to give my countrymen an account of what I have seen and telt ; and it is for this object I have taken these notes. Were any of you to visit Bri- tain, you might write down with ?mpunity whatever you thought proper ; and I confess that in this land of liberty I expected at least an equal license. If you have no cause to be ashamed of your proceedings, or any doubts of my being a faithful chronicler, surely there is no harm in what I am doing ; — if you think that matters have not been conducted in a creditable manner, then the fault is j'^our own and not mine. There are my notes," handing them to Dr Hicks, ** if they are incorrect, destroy them ; and if my remaining here any longer is disagreeable to you, I shall immediately retire."" Dr Hicks read the notes, and returned them to me, saying they were rather within than beyond the mark, and that he for one would not consent to my dismissal, but would afford me all the facilities in his power. Thus the matter ended. About 12 o'clock the proceedings were suspended AN ELECTIOy. 241 ed to down ted to fed me of ob- ordin^ se, and having y best ness to swn me nations •I have been at ve your ► return )f what I have sit Bri- hatever tiis land If you ings, or surely think editable 3t mine. Hicks, if my you, I le notes, rather for one Id afford B matter )U IS pended for two hours to allow the electors and others time to take dinner. The room was accordingly cleared ; and three different parties in succession had dinner served up to them. Shortly after two the proclama- tion was again read, and the voting recommenced, and continued till four, when it was adjourned till next day at 10 ©""clock — to take place at the house of Dr Hicks, Little Falls. The ballot-box was opened by the committee only, the ballots com- pared with the number of voters who had come for- ward, and found to correspond. By this time several of the electors were lying dead-drunk in the bar-room — others were fast asleep from the effects of their bodily exertions during the day — and not a few bore evident marks of their late struggles in the cause of liberty. The more respec- table portion of the assembly had already taken their departure. Our party now got the waggon in rea- diness, and drove to Little Falls in high good hu- mour, singing songs and laughing all the way. At ten next morning the adjourned proceedings recommenced at Dr Hicks's. The same system of wheedling and objecting, cajolling and cheating, wrangling and fighting, took place as before. The objections made were often frivolous and annoying ; bitter words ensued, and sometimes hlows were ex- changed at the very table. Every one seemed to -enjoy unbounded license, and the raggedest person was always the most noisy and outrageous. Many of the electors M'ere again brought up nearly quite drunk ; and bribery was alleged to have been prac- tised to a great extent. A person was making a loud lamentation in the bar-room about the loss of one of his gloves, which had been taken from him while he was answering the questions of the committee, and which he had purchased that very day. Having gone to see what . , . , ...... X [!.':: V H 212 AN ELECTION. was the matter, I suggested to him the simple ex- pedient of writing out an advertisement and posting it up outside the door, and at the bar ; but he said it M'as of no use, he would never see it more, though he had a guess who was the thief. I how- ever wrote tM'o copies of an advertisement, com- mencing^ with the words " Lost or Stolen,'' and directed them to be stucli up. In a short time the missing article was restored ; and the owner, who iieA'cr would have dreamt of so obvious a means of discovery, took down the advertisement, which he said he would keep in remembrance of the service I had rendered him, gloves being indispensable to work \s ith in winter, and at the same time insisted upon my taking some drink with him. I had also to take a glass with several others on the same ac- count, all of them being struck with admiration at the ingenuity of my contrivance. The proceedings Avere again adjourned for the day. Next morning, being the third and last day, the voting was resumed, according to announcement the day previous, in Fenton's Hotel, at the Land- ing. A person came up to an elector who had just given his ballot to my nephew, and asked him for whom he had voted. He said, for Mr M 'Donald. " Then," said the first mentioned individual, " Mr So-and-so, to whom you shewed your ticket, must have changed it, for you have voted for Mr Arch- bold." This discovery created great noise and up- roar among the parties ; the epithets " liar, scoun- drel, tarnation vagabond, robber of the people's money," &c. being freely bandied about. I was in momentaiy expectation of seeing the scenes of the tMO previous days renewed, but the ominous cloud \rore off. A little, shrewd, or I should rather say blackguard-lodiing fellow, brought up his son, an imbecile, to vote. He was objected to by the one party, and defended by the other on the ground of le ex- osting le said more, how- , com- ;' and lie the •, who ?aiis of lich he rvice I ible to nsisted id. also ime ac- tion at eedings ay, the Lcement 5 Land- ad just him for Ponald. , " Mr t, must r Arch- and up- scoiin- people''s '. was in of the IS cloud ther say son, an the one ound of AN ELECTION. 243 his competency to transact business ; but the com- mittee very properly rejected his vote. The objec- tions and answers are all made viva voce to the com- mittee, whose decision in every case is final. A person now came up to me and enquired what I thought of the ballot. Not wishing to give ot- fence, I replied that upon the whole I was disap- pointed with the system since I * i seen it in prac- tice. This answer not be* . dec. A satisfactory, J was obliged to rejoin, " xo be trank with you, since you must have it, some of you appear tc un- derstand well what you are about ; but others again appear, to a superficial observer such as I am, to be like sheep following each others'* tails.^^ This last expression was immediately carried to the bar-room ; and the Scotchman and his country were loudly condemned. I heard the storm brew- ing, and was resolved to face it ere it reached its height. When I made my appearance, an opening was made for me through the crowd, and I marched straight up to the bar, and demanded some spiritn and water, which I deliberately drank off. One of tlie company, more bold than the rest, desired me to repeat the expression which had ^ven them of- fence. I did so, at the same time returning him the Yankee compliment of a fixed stare. " What made you say so," said he, petulantly. The eyes of all were now directed towards me — I saw it was necessary to be fiim ; so, placing my arms a-kimbo, I resolutely answered, " Because I think so." This conduct had the desired effect ; the man became in- stantly cool; and the murmur died away. I re- turned with flying colours to the side-room. The polling finally closed at 4 o'clock — the bal- lots were taken out and compared with the naraeb*, and found to correspond. Mr Archbold, the Jack- sonite, had 162 votes, and Mr M'Donald, 88. Six- ty-two voters did not come fonvard. x2 "'i 'I 2H AN ELECTION. This then is the practical working of Universal Suffrage and the Ballot in the State oi New York. I have been thus minute in detailing M'hat I saw, from my knowledge of the fact that mjiny of my countrymen labour under delusive notions of its rj- perior advantages and efficacy. I an well aware that what I have written may expose me to oblo- quy ; but I have told the truth, and surely, if this is to be considered a crime, there is an end to every thing like real liberty and justice. Universal Suf- frage is the means of bringing the passions and pre- judices of the lower orders into a perpetual and un- natural state of activity — it encourages every spe- cies of dissipation, wrangling, and bad-feeling — and diverts the mind of the working man from the pur- suit of what is worth all the trashy politics that ever were spouted, a decent and steady attention to the duties of his own calling. The Ballot, again, as practised in America, is not the sovereign remedy against aristocratic influence whi < some would fain make us believe — the same systeii. of canvassing by means of agents and private solicitation takes place as in Britain ; and the result of the election corres- ponds as closely as it does here with the success of that canvass. Besides, there is in reality no such thing as secret voting in America. Every man^s sentiments are as well known as if he had given his vote in the most open and public manner. The Ballot, how- ever, is a good thing for him who would act the part of the sycophant to both parties, and betray either of them he pleased — it is good for the villain, who would falsify his own promises — and it is good for those who, like some of the worthy agents I have described, would defraud the simple and un- suspecting elector by the disgraceful practice of crimping, of which I have shewn some specimens. 11 245 CHAP. VII. EXCURSION TO CANADA, AND THENCE BACK TO NEW YORK. Having sojourned among my relations consider- ably longer than I had originally contemplated, I now seriously resolved to bend my course homewards; previous to which, however, I contemplated a short trip into Canada, not with the most distant intention of effecting a settlement there, as I had long sincH made up my mind on the subject of America genernlly, but partly to gratify curiosity, and partly to satisty myself and family that I had done full justice to the object of my undertaking. I went on to Utica, which the Americans call the imperial city of the west. It is a busy place ; the stores are well filled ; but the people have a pale, sallow, and ague-like appearance. The water is brackish, soil sandy, undulating. The Erie or Western Canal, which runs through it, is not above four feet deep, the boats being long, narrow, and flat-bottomed. The town is built mostly of wood, though there are many brick houses, and a few of stone. If you examine even their outward appearance, you will easily conceive they have not the comfort within that ours have. Some of the windows have shutters on the outsida even of the upper stories ; some have blinds not im- iike our Venetian ones ; and others have paper hang^- ings inside of the glass, to darken the room in order to keep away the flies M'hieh are partial to light. The people use fly-traps here to thin them ; but notwithstanding the numbers killed in this way, they ftre not perceptibly decreased. I took up my x3 I'M S i, 246 EXCURSION TO CANADA, ANO i > lotlging in a bar-room, a place which is only suited for a talker and a drinker ; but I had no choice ; and I always liked to have an opportunity of study- ing the American character. I got the usual stare from a number of loungers ; and observing a news- paper, took it up, seating myself on a form in the recess of the window. I always preferred being nearest the light, as I had little faith in the Ameri- cans. One is quite surprised at the catalogue of crimes, of every enormity, recorded in the American newspapers. Our crimes are no doubt manifold, yet I think they are far greater here ; and owing to the thinness of the population, how many must be perpetrated that never come to light ! But we need not wonder at all this, when we consider the cha- racter of the population ; for there is no place where the maxim of doing unto others as we would they should do to us, is less attended to than in the wide and extensive land of liberty. A person came into the bar-room here, who was recognized and saluted by the name of Captain Hall. He was from Boston. He examined with a scruti- nizing glance every person in the room ; but my blue coat and shepherd's-plaid trowsers brought his snake-like stare full upon me, and I returned it. After he had been treated with drink by several, and perhaps treated as many in return, he sat down, and said he would give an account of how he had been treated in an English ship. I shall omit those portions of his narrative which were grossly inde- cent, a very common reproach of American bar-rooms, such language being only to be tolerated in the free state of America, and not suited for the ears of British slaves. He commenced as follows : — " I happened to be along wfth other six bathing in the sea at Boston, no mistake ; and being all of us excellent swimmers, we went a great way out. capt He THENCE BACK TO NEW YORK. 247 till we lost sitrht of land, no mistake. We were diverting ourselves in the water, suspecting no evil, when an English cutter came in between us and the shore, and cut oft* our retreat. We were taken into the boat one after another, naked as we were born ; and the sailors pulled away to an English man-of- war that was cruizing off' Boston — it was at the beginning of the War of Independence, no mistake. The cutter had six oars of a side, and thfj crew were savage-looking creatures like Ingiaiis.'" — Here he gave me another stare, which I returned ; and he proceeded : ** We ascended the ship's side, and ranked naked as we were born on the quarter-deck. We had no reason to be ashamed of our persons, for we were handsome good-looking men, no mistake. After a short time the captain having come forward and examined us, and remarked that we would make excellent sailors, I went up to him and told him he ought to send us ashore for our clothes, for that we were American citizens. He gave me a look, just like an Ingian, and ordered me f(u*ty lashes for speak- ing to him. He now ordered the boatswain to take us below, and give us some clothes. Just then, an Ame- rican frigate having come in sight, we were in hopes she would capture the English man-of-war — and she would have done it, no mistake. The British was a seventy-four gun-ship, having three hundred sea- men and five hundred marines, but she fled. I was ordered to do my duty before the mast ; I said I could not do that as I had never been to sea. The captain ordered me fifty lashes for speaking to him. He asked me if I would now do my duty before the mast ; I said I would die first — I wa? an American subject. He ordered me forty more lashes. He again asked me if I would do my duty ; I bade him flog away, for, I repeated, I would die first. The captain then said I was a b} ave fellow, and ordered me to be loosened from the rigging. The captain was a boaster ; but he caught a tartar there. You will remember the British took him to Halifax —who ate or paid for the dinner he had ordered, in the confidence of victory, I know not. The rest of 5''our story is so gross that you might travel, even in the lowest society, from one end of Britain to an- other, and not hear its equal. I am proud of be- longing to such a land.'' Some Irish labourers who were present cheered me and clapped their hands ; the captain was crest-fallen. The mention of the Shannon and Chesapeake is an infallible recipe to settle an American boaster ; and I used it on eveiy occasion. It was my fortune very often to fall in with persons who seemed to take a pleasure in reviling my country, which only tended to confirm my attachment to her. An event had just occurred in this district which was making considerable noise. The particulars are as follow : A farmer and money-lender, a chrewd sagacious person, residing on the Herkimer Flat?, with no family but his hired helps, lived in a frame- house which was pointed out to me. He had a large barn at some distance from it, as are all Ameri- can barns, to prevent the danger from fire. I had M'itnessed the burning of one ; and the desolation was complete. Whatever Mr Stuart and other tra- vellers may have written about the abundance to be found in America, I saw little of it; on the con- trary, there is sometimes a famine. This Western Territory is said to be the garden of America ; but I have seen few gardens that deserve the name, and very few flowers but wild fern. Sometimes a famine is caused by excessive drought, sometimes by vermin, and sometimes by the rain, when much of the allu- vial lauds, which are the richest, are drowned— -and drowned land is a common term. These Herkimer Flats contain about 12,000 imperial acres. While, from various causes, the famine prevailed, this per- THEXCE BACK TO NEW YORK. 251 there, [alifax •tiered, lie rest I, even to an- of be- srs who hands ; eake is oaster ; fortune med to ch only t which rticulars 1 chrewd r Flai3, a frame- e had a 1 Ameri- I had esolation »ther tra- dance to the con- Western ica ; but ame, and a famine T vermin, the allu- icJ — and Herkimer While, this pet- son's crops were spared ; and he retailed all his pro- duce at an exorbitant charge, not only selling his grain at a high price, but making the buyers pro- mise him in addition some days' labour in spring, or at the fall, if he should require it. If any one also borrowed money or agricultural implements from him, he used to stipulate for some labour free, over and above the regular hire. He was a com- plete dollar-hunter, and did make them, no mistake. He got old, however, and took a nephew of his to reside with him. The nephew was not so fond of such early rising, nor working i nder a broiling sun, nor thrashing in a barn, as the uncle ; yet the uncle flattered himself he would bring him in. The nephew was fonder of a bar-room, and a bar-room story, than his uncle's fireside and lessons of thrift The latter however nominated him his heir. Things went on between them slickly for some time ; till the uncle, having missed some dollars, accused his protege of the theft, which was denied. The uncle ordered him out of the house ; and the nephew in return prosecuted him for defamation of character. The uncle privately altered the will, making over his property to a stranger. The nephew, however, gained the law ; and the uncle was found in damages and expences, which he would not pay, and was put in jail, where he had just died of vexation. So the nephew at once lost the property, the damages, and the expences. I left Utica in one of the line-boats on the West- cm Canal, from which I used occasionally to step out and view any of the public works that were going on, I found that the labour performed was chiefly done by Irishmen, the Americans in general appearing to be unfit for hard work ; in- deed, were it not for the emigrants, they would have fewer canals and rail-roads. Observed some men scooping up the sand from the bottom of the canal ; m 252 EXCUnsiON TO CANADA, AND a great deal of business is carried on through this water-way. I went and visited the salt-works at Onandago. The lake of that name is upwards of foiir hun- dred miles from the sea ; yet, notwithstanding, if you put a pump into it twenty feet below the sur- face, you will bring up strong salt water. There are wooden tanks built on the gi'ound to contain it, previous to filling the cisterns, M'hieh latter are com- posed of lines of troughs, having lids to cover them during rain or at night. Evaporation goes on by the influence of the sun, for, as the wood is now getting scarce, government has interdicted boiling. The troughs, which are also made of wood, are raised a little from the ground. Officers appointed by government are in attendance to see that the salt is well made ; it is of weaker quality than what is manufactured in Europe ; and the Americans have to import the article, though the duty is very high, to cure their butter. The Cayuga Flats here, as well as many others, remind me of the fens in England, and are as un- healthy. The soil is alluvial generally, and pro- duces good crops, the salt acting as a manure. The ^vater is brackish, and the insects numerous and troublesome. I spoke to a farmer who was sink- ing a well at fifteen feet and came on a spring of salt water, remarking that I wondered how he could live there with such bad water. He answered that he did not care a cent for water if he had good crops ; and that he had a ready demand for all kinds of farm produce l)y the canal. Cooper, in his Last of the Mohicans, says that the Indians call the Americans the Pale Faces, and they really are pale-faced. The ladies are obliged to use rouge in order to conceal their sickly hue, and the men who labour out of doors have need of oil on their faces to keep off the insects. . four a few night eould hold went As TiiSNCE BACK TO NEW YORK, 253 iin- pro- The and sink- ing of could that good I went along a wooden bridge here nearly a mile long; over a swamp, the surface in many places being covered with a green mantle. Malaria was thinning the population at a great rate ; farms were deserted, and houses shut up, owing to the pestilence, yet new adventurers were pouring in. Clyde, a low-lying sickly town, on the line of the canal. In coming to this place I had to pass over a large marsh, wood in some places being laid across the road to make it firm, the water on each side covered with a green scum, from which pro- ceeded, by the action of the sun, a close fog that produced a choking kind of effect on my breathing. Two persons had died that day iu the house next to the bar where I took up my lodging for the night ; they w^re put into a box, and buried within four hours after tlieir decease. In another house a few doors from it, a fath^ and mother, along with two children, also died shortly after I arrived, and were likewise put into boxes, and buried in pairs. The deaths, I was informed, averaged fifty per day. It was like the city of the plague — no ceremony there at burial. A number of Indian children wx)uld occasionally accompany our boat along the banks of Uie canal, running so as to keep up with it ; the passengers now and then throwing out a cent on the bank to induce them to come farther. Most of them had the usual accompaniment, the blanket, over their shoulders. Having been told that they belonged to the Nadir tribe, a 4;hought struck me that I would visit their settlement, and remain with them all night if I could procure lodging; after which I eould join the line-boat next day. I accordingly got hold of one of the boys, giving him a cent, and went in his company to their village. , As we approached the place, I remarked that the 254 EXCURSION TO CANADA, AND trees in the orchards are not planted in rows like those of the pale faces, but irregularly ; and the same with the Indian corn. In the latter I thought the Indians have the advantage over the pale faces, as by this means they effectually puzzle the crows, which M'ill begin sometimes at the end of a row in the straight planted fields, and with mathematical exactness step from place to place, and dig up and eat the seeds as they go along, to the dismay of the farmer. The Indians are not so fond of dollar-making as are the pale faces, seldom planting more than they need for their own consumption. They are simple in their dress, and have not the suspicious and inquisitive American stare. I observed an infant lying on a board, to which it was tied by the shoul- ders with a strap, another being fastened across the lower part of the body, the arms and legs being free. There was a blanket covering the child, and a wo- man beside it. I thought at first it was dead ; but afterwards learnt that the young children are always strapped to a board of this kind till they are able to walk. The adults have a hobbling gait in walking, ap- pearing to lean more on the heel than the toe ; they stand erect, their shoulders squared — wi^ether the lacing be the cause of this I do not know. Their spine does not appear to have the same curve as ours ; their hands, in place of hanging in a line with the thighs, rather fall behind them. In a word, you would think it very easy to drive them over. I have noticed a few men in Edinburgh walk very like them. I saw their chief, a female, who was dressed something like the rest ; her hut had no distinguish- ing feature a|i0Ut it that I could observe. She was treated by h^r vassals with great respect, although not an Indian herself. This tribe had captured her THENCE BACK TO NEW YORK. 255 i1 father and mother when she was quite a child, and having taken them to their territory, put the father to death, but not in presence of herself or her mo- ther ; she still, however, remembers having heard his screams. Her mother was murdered sometime after, having always expected it since her husband's death ; the daughter heard them debating her death, though she did not witness it, and even her own, which was only prevented by the chief's squaw, who afterwards adopted her. The old chief having died, his eldest son married her, after consul- ting the tribe and obtaining the consent of his mo- ther. He was shot soon after by his brother, who wished to obtain her hand ; and the heads of tht; tribe, having met, decided that he should be put to death for the crime. The old squaw was then made chief, and her daughter-in-law divided the honours with her, presiding over and settling the differences of the tribe ; and she was made sole chief on the death of the former. Many offers had been made to induce her to enter into wedlock again, but she declined them all. The state also have offered her a pension to leave them, but she declines it ; she says that though they murdered her parents, she is aware it was during a time of war ; that they havo been kind to her, and that she is fond of them, and will not leave them. I observed one of the men at the door of his hut making snow shoes. They are formed thus : A strong twig is bent into a kind of oval narrower at the toe than heel ; the hoop is covered across with skin. It is six times or more the size of the foot, in order to cover a quantity of snow, that it may not sink readily ; and the foot is laced in with straps something like our skates. The Indian hut, though meaner than the log-house, is superior to the shanty. The pale faces, after a generation or two, y2 256 EXCURSION TO CANADA, AND approximate to the high cheek hones of these Tit- dians ; — hut I liked the manners of the latter hetter. They are hard pressed now on all sides, and will soon he squeezed out hy tlreir pale-faced rivals and successors. I now went on to Rochester. I had received a letter from Mr Gibson, writer to the signet, late of George's square, Edinburgh, then of New York, to a son of Mr T of B upholsterer in Edin- burgh, requesting him to give me as much infor- mation as he could ; but he was from home when I called. All the country from Herkimer to this phice abounds in lakes and marshes ; the soil light, sandy, alluvial ; water miserable ; snakes, flies, mosquitoes, crickets, and grasshoppers, swarming. The pale faces are paler, and tinged generally with a saffron colour ; disease abounding. This is the Garden of America — what misery exists here \ Cleaning and repairing the canal is chiefly done by Irish labourers^ who seem for the most part happy ; but they soon die out, and make room for others. In Lockport I fell in with a surgeon, late from Edinburgh ; he TJ'as surprised to meet me. I told him I was on the eve of returning home, and was only waiting for a letter from my son, who was carrying on my business in Edinburgh ; that Kke Noah's dove I could find no rest for the sole of n^ foot, let me be ever so well treated ; and that, be- ing on the spot, I wished to see every thing, and in my own ymy. He asked me if I had ever taken the country's distemper ; I said no. What medr- cine did I use ? None. Did I drink much cyder or water? I said no, I lived sparingly. He seemed surprised. He said, " If there is a place of retri- bution, these travellers and land-speculators will cer- tainly not be passed over. What misery they inflict by inducing people to come here, seeking happiness where it is not to be found ! Thev sow the seeds of ,Mi THENCE BACK TO NEW YORK. 257 soon from told was discontent with the government and the happy cli- mate of Great Britain ; and, the human mind be- ing prone to a happiness that is in prospect, the de- luded victim comes here, seduced by their lucid de- scriptions, and generally terminates his existence by a broken spirit, which is more fatal than the mala- ria or the fever and ague which you have so won- derfully escaped." I said I had no fear of death ; I should rather be afraid to live in this country ; and thought I should now be content to live in Edin- burgh even on bread and water. " I cannot re- turn," said he, sorrowfully ; " and you must not say you saw me. I am a self-banished man, and haxl far better been banished by the State ; but the die is cast — it is of no use now to repine. I am happy, however, that you have the means to take you back ; this is no place for you, nor for me neither, but I cannot help it. I have been through New Jersey, the Delaware, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, and New York. These countries have a compound of all the climates in the world brought into a comparatively small focus. They have the moisture of Ireland in spring, the heat of Africa in summer, the sky of Italy and Egypt in autumn, and the cold, ice, and snow of Holland, Norway, Greenland, and Iceland in winter. They have the tempests, tornadoes, and hurricanes of the torrid zone, and the beautiful and variable winds and weather of Great Britain in every season of the year. This is a perfect charnel-house or hospital ; yet the physicians have no comfort and little pay. We have all the diseases in the world concentrated into one place, and a repetition of them every year." I am sorry I am not at liberty to mention this gen- tleman'*s name, for he was kind to me, and gave mn much curious information. Our parting was a mournful one on both sides. . y 3 it i iV 258 BXCUnSION TO CANADA, A1C1> I In a bar-room here I heard a story teller, over his cups, give a Scottish anecdote americanized a great way. A Scottish farmer in America had hired two tailors for a great while ; their work being done, he cleared with them, no mistake — they had to re- ceive more than a hundred dollars^ They used to be boasting, how they had encountered bears of great size, and how slick they killed them. The farmer had a hired help. Miss Johnston, no mistake. She said to the farmer, (aside) " What will you bet that I don''t take the dollars from these brave tailors P'' " I will bet you a gown,'' said he. " Well Jem*, done !" said she, " I will require a suit of your clothes and a sausage only." The tailors went away in high spirits, having boasted that no person could take the dollars from them. She followed them after having dressed herself in a strange way, and blackened her face and hands just like a nigger, no mistake ; took a near cut that she might be before them, and lay in waiting for them. She had a bow in her hand and some arrows on her back, with the sausage hung round her neck ; she was like an Ingian, no mis- take. They came up joking and laughing, when she bolted through the brush on them just like an Ingian, demanding the dollars, and, holding up the sausage, threatened to blow their brains out. She knew v/hich of them had the dollars ; he was the most boasting, and it was him she threatened. He fell on his knees, and offered the dollars, keeping back, however, a great many. But she knew the nnmber, no mistake ; she clapt the sausage to his ear, and threatened to blow his brains out at once if he did not give up every cent. He then produced the whole, both he and his companion begging for mercy on bended knees^ She then returned home through the brush, laid the dollars on table, ran up to chamber, and shifted herself. The two tailors soon appeared, running as if they had been piu-sued by a like wet, THENCE BACK TO NEW YORK. 259 an the She the He panther. They entered the house making a great lament how that ei^t Ingians had sprung at them out of the bnish, and with their tomahawks threat- ened to kill them if they did not give up the money, which they were thus compelled to do ; and that they were afraid to go home for fear of their wives, as they had lost all their money. The farmer said that he had paid them every cent, and had nothing to do with the robbery ; but they beseeched him to lend them ten dollars to give to their wives, which they would repay. This he refused to do ; but said if they would agree to give one of the Ingians twenty dollars, he would try to get back the rest. This they willingly agreed to. He now desired the hired help to go up to chamber, telling her aside to shift herself, and blacken her face like a nigger, and bring down the purse. She did so, and came down just like an Ingian. The tailors were frightened, and wished to fly; but he bade them be quiet, it was only the hired help. She now counted over the dol- lars to them, not one cent amissing, no mistake* They seemed a good deal mortified at the discovery ; nevertheless they gave her the twenty dollars, baide her not mention the circumstance, and cleared. So she got a new gown and twenty dollars, and Jem married her. Was not that slick ?" I went on to Lewiston. There is a road here called the Alluvial Way ; it enters Niagara at this place, and may be traced for thirty miles from Lewis- ton. Its appearance shews that it had evidently been the bed of a river, flowing from the east, which the Americans converted to its present use, and a good road it is. It is generally called the ridge- road ; the sand and rounded stones make it appear as if macadamised. This seems to be a miserable, wet, sandy, gravelly country ; trees stunted. I visited the celebrated Falls of Niagara, but really could not see any thing so very imposing abouA 260 EXCURSION TO CANADA, AND them as I had been led to believe. The great breadth takes away from the height ; and I must say I have seen as striking an effect produced by the fall from a common mill-dam at home, or in one of those that run across the Hudson to supply the canals. Poets and travellers call it sublime ; and I am aware that the frothy appearance of the water, after it has fallen, gives it a rapid-like appearance for a considerable distance ; but we may observe this in miniature in the commotion caused ])y the paddle-wheels of a steam boat, or in any of the falls in Britain. The spray however sometimes causes beautiful rainbows. It has been frequently stated that the noise is some- times heard at twenty and even forty miles distance. This I consider to be grossly exaggerated ; I do not believe the sound in ordinary times reaches much farther than a mile. I have observed that in these falls, as well as in others 1 have seen in this coun- try, when a stone is brought into a flat part of the rock, the force of the water makes it whirl round and round ; and, other stones being swept into the same vortex, tlie whole united gradually wear by the friction a round hole in the rock, which is sometimes increased to a great depth, till, working its way into a fissure or soft part, the w eight of the column of water breaks it asunder, and precipitates it to the abyss below. I observed here some of these rounded holes so large that a person might easily creep through them. I fathomed one, and found its depth perpendi- cular to be thirty-four ifeet. There are two ridges of rock, the one entirely worn away, the other verging fast to the same state ; and when this latter disap- pears, Lake Erie will be left dry with only a stream in the centre. It might then be called Erie prairie. There is a tribe of Indians here in Niagara ; also a community of Temperance people or water-drinkers. I went on to Buffaloe ; here the Erie canal ter- minates. Crowds of emigrants were taking shipping THENCE BACK TO NEW VOftK. 261 for Michigan ; the scene reminded me somewhat of Greenock when I left it, but thcj houses, the lan- guage, and manners of the people, and the appear- ance of the country, are widely different. The soil is undulating, sandy, stoney, slaty, wet ; catcle lean ; corn and trees stunted ; weather for the most part hazy ; people of a sallow complexion. I was now drawn into the vortex of the Michigan fever. I had often wondered at advertisements hung up in Vir- rooms, stating that, as such a person had taken the Michigan fever, he would sell oft* all his stock by vendue — as he was to clear out for Michigan by a certain day, great bargains might be expected, and so forth. It was a common trick for persons to ad- vertise that they had taken the fever, when they had no intention to remove, merely to gull the pub- lic, and get their goods sold, always, as the bills stated, below cost prices. I like the term " fever." Buftaloe is a busy place, no mistake ; vessels were literally crammed, and Lake Erie is a dangerous navigation, many wi^cks occurring. I went on board one of these vessels bound for Detroit, Michi- gan ; we had steers, cows, horses, waggons— in short we were like the followers of an invading army, and every one building castles in the air. The Americans seem to be a migrating people in general, never happy where they are fixed ; and probably this is the reason why they are so fond of wooden houses, though stone is art hand. We had a very coarse passage ; weather foggy. Michigan is low-lying ; country undulating, sandy 5 the fever and the ague making sad havoc among tho new-comers — I saw its effects in the saffron countenances of the people, and the great mortality that was taking place. Notwithstanding, hundreds were rushing onward, and but few return- ing apparently cured, the greater part being left to fatten the soil. Misery and disappointment were ai 262 EXCURSION TO CANADA, AND keenly depicted on the countenances of some of them as I had seen in New York. The fever, both in its literal and metaphorical sense, >vas indeed raging. The cause of the bodily epidemic was said to be the <]uantity of timber newly felled, and the decayed vegetable matter. In a bar-room here I met with a Mr Smith of Ver- mont ; he had had the fever and ague, and was very weak. He recommended me to quit the place im- mediately, as he was about to do himself. The deaths that had taken place, he said, were sixty per cent ; and so callous were the feelings of the people, that the sick got no sympathy, the survivors seem- ing anxious for more deaths, that they might par- ticipate in the spoil. " If you live,^^ he continued, " you will see nothing going on but cutting, burn- ing, and clearing. I purchased a track of land, six hundred acres at three dollars each, but have left it. The copper-headed snake, the rattle-snake, and other poisonous reptiles, abound in myriads. Luckily for me, I bad bargained that at a given time, if I did not like the property, I was to have the deposit money returned. If I get to BufiTaloe I shall be safe ; but a relapse is mortal. Insects are so nume- rous, that you are like to be eaten up with them when they are alive, and when they die their decomposi- tion poisons the whole air. In a word, this country in its present state is fit only for Indians.''^ This gentleman and I took shipping for Erie ; other two emaciated figures were passengers return- ing. I went on to Sacket's Harbour. A new wonder of the world was pointed out to me here by a rene- gade countr^'^man, who had not one word to speak in favour of his native land ; he had been surely a cheat when at home, and had been obliged to fly. This wonder is a large American ship, which was to have cleared Lake Erie of the British ; the wood of which it is built, he said, was growing in the THENGE BACK TO NEW YOUK. 263 autumn preceding; and in the depth of winter it was finished in two months, and ready to be hiunch- ed, when peace was proclaimed ; — ^\vnereas the Bri- tish imported timber from Canada, built their ships at home, and then sent them out here, where they had to be built a second time. What a waste of public money ! I said we had money still ; and that I saw it was a scarcer commodity here than at home, notwithstanding all their boasted economy. What- ever we did, we took care it should be done well. *' Had this ship," I said, " been out during the pal- try storm I saw a few days ago, which blew so many American ships on shore, she would not have rode the gale ; timber requires to be seasoned before it is used in ship-building.''^ This man was kind to me, however ; and I thought he railed against his country more to please the hangers-on in the bar- room, to which we adjourned, than to gratify him- self. The wonder of the world has a covering over it, and will often, I suppose, be pointed out to the British emigrant, to shew how slick the Americans can build a ship of war, no mistake. A man of the name of McDonald told the follow- ing story to the admiring audience in the bar-room : " A person named Campbell, with his wife and two fat children, travelled from New York to Bonning- ton seeking employment, but could find none. One of the children was at the breast, and the wife car- ried the other on her back ; he had a pack on his back, which contained all their things, no mistake. He at last called on Squire Allan, asking something to do, even for his meat, as his wife and children were starving. It was hay-harvest ; and he was a stout-looking fellow, no mistake. Mr Allan offered him eight dollars a month if he had a mind to. But he could not take him into the house, as he had more hired helps than he had beds for ; but, pointing to a log-house at a little distance^ said he might take I iiii I 264, EXeai" your expences the length of New York, and. if you need more, draw on me ; or should you be- come unwell, go into some good hotel, and get advice. You know that letters reach us only once a-week, and sometimes only once in two weeks, but I will set out for you as soon as I receive a letter, pay your expences, and bring you back. I would have accompanied you to New York, but 2;2 :l % 268 EXCURSION TO CANADA, AND should lose twenty dollars per day if I did, for my hired helps never work when I am away." I now took farewell of all my kind acquaintances, many of whom made me write several scraps of Burns' poems, which I distributed among them. I had to drink to each. December 12ifA.— My nephew called me up ; I had not closed an eye that night. About two in the morn- ing his sleigh was yoked with two good horses to drive me to Glens-Falls. It was piercing cold, snow five feet deep. The coach was to start for Albany at seven. I was snugly wrapt up in bufFalo-skins, and felt comfortable at the prospect of returning home ; and when we reached the top of the Queens- berry Mountains, and saw the sky brightening a little in the east, I was quite revived, for I had felt myself unwell. We had not long arrived till the coach was ready. I took my seat behind ; there were two or three r>+h«^^ ')assengers, but it was by no means fr' It \ - ,fc a close carriage as ours are, the in part beni^ only a screen ; but it had a cover f , the top. After I was seated, a person opened tue door, and said, " Mr Weston ^"^ I an- swered yes. He then went to the bar where my nephew was, and the latter came out and intro- duced him to me as Judge , when he took his seat opposite, giving me the American stare. When we drove off, he entered into conversation with me about our courts of justice, and the wide extension of the English language, saying that it was purely spoken in almost every part of the Union, and that we ought to be proud of our eldest son. I said, " Our eldest son ought to be proud of us, but I think he is not ; I am aware the language spoken is our own, but the manners and the morals are not, unless taken from our lowest class, who find a ready asylum here along with their ill-got gains." He held up America as perfection, and I did the same THENCE BACK TO NEW YORK. 269 good office for Britain. None of the other passen- gers interfered ; and after we halted to change horses at Sandy Hill, I lost sight of him altogether. Here we got ourselves warmed, and took something inwardly, of which we had much need, for the wind and drift which blew right into the carriage had perfectly benumbed and stupified us. Some of our writers say there are no pedestrian travellers in America ; but I found them continuaUy in all weathers — this day I passed many threading their way through the snow. The white painted wooden houses have now a miserable looking appear- ance, and, being the same colour as the snow, are not easily distinguished at a distance. Late at night we arrived in Albany ; and, as we drove past the lamps, I fancied myself in Edinburgh. Our horses, as the driver told me, had taken the sloughing distemper, which was a new disease among horses in America, and generally terminated fatally. Next day I went on board the New England steam-boat for New York ; her length was seventy of my steps, breadth fifteen. When we got a little below Albany, she ran a- ground on the bar, which put off' some hours — got her off" and made sail. To- wards evening it began to blow a hurricane, with snow ; we could not see two yards from the ship. We had to come to anchor, and allow the steam to go off*; the bi'l was kept ringing lest any other vessel should come in contact. We had to lie in this condition all night. Next day we made sail, snow falling, and got as far as West Point ; it blew a perfect hurricane, with snow ; the ship rolled heavily, not only gunnel under, but sometimes her bulwarks nearly so ; we all thought she would up- set. Two men were rolled overboard — nothing could save them. We put back into a bay a little above West Point, came to anchor, and allowed z 3. m 270 EXCURSION TO CANADA, AN1> the steam to go off. This was as coarse a night a» ever blew, the ship rolling dreadfully. After things had been put to rights a little, I \vent to bed ; the rolling of the ship rocked me asleep ; and when I awoke next morning, I found we were opposite Sing Sing, the state-prison formerly described. I ought to have stated that, at the time I visited it, a number of merchants and tradesmen had taken the oppor- tunity of an outcry against the governor for con- tracting for M'ork at an under value, and thereby defrauding trade of its legitimate profits, to petition for its entire abolition. Our wood being all con- sumed, we had to take in another supply. — We ai i/ed at New York, having been sixty-four iiours on the passage. Aiy first business was to go and inquire after a pas- EU'e home. I learned that the Camillus was to «aii >n the 20th. Saw the capta'n, who told me he would sail on the 19th; took out and paid my passage, putting my trunk on board. I now went to the house I had formerly lodged in, to make inquiries about my former shipmates. They had all left but one, namely the watchmaker, who was a boarder. I engaged on my old terms— to pay so much for my bed, and for my victuals according to what I should eat. My landlady said, " You will never see Bri- tain again if you go in that ship ; no office will in- sure her." " She is the first ship," I said, " and- I will tal'.o my chance." I slept this night with the watchmaker, who told me that every one of our passengers that he knew of, including himself, had taken the country's dii^^ t < mpr? ; and all had now left the place except one. This was a son of the fore- man of Messrs C .n and Company, paper-manu- facturers, P— — k ; he, like many others, had gone out in high glee, dancing and singing, a boon companion of the master-baker formerly alluded to. He had now been three times in the hospital, and THENCE BACK TO NEW YORK. 271 was not well behaved. My companion said he was not comfortable himself, and did not like the board- ing-houses ; but he was ashamed to return home just yet. I saw the foreman's son ; but he was so ema- ciated and shabbily dressed, that I thought shame of him ; he was to have brought me a letter for his father, but did not do so. Next day, in going along Broadway, a person touched me on the shoulder. I turned round and recognised a late shopman of Mr Ebenezer Ward- law, Lothian street, Edinburgh. He informed me that Peter , late clerk to Messrs Thom- son, stationers, St Andrew's square, was in New York, giving lectures on agriculture and marriage ; and wished to take me to him. We accordingly met and shook hands, and had something to drink in a Scotch house, as it was called. Mr Calder, hat- manufacturer, came in while we were there, and having recognised me, was desirous that I should make his house my home while I remained. As his manufactory and dwelling-house were in the old state-prison, a considerable way off, he offered me some omnibus tickets to convey me to and from his house ; and observing my hat was the worse of the wear, kindly gave me a new one. I called on him only once, however, when he requested me to take charge of a present for his mother-in-law, Mrs Rus- sell, Rankeillor street, Edinburgh, which I pro- mised to do. Peter introduced me to a great number of his acquaintances, all of his own cast, and no great saints, to say the lea'^t.. He intended to give a lecture that night, and requested me to draw the money and give out the tickets, as he had no faith in the Americans. This I agreed to do ; and having appointed another perso i to receive back the tickets, was duly installed in office at the bar. At the appointed hour, the people began to gather ; li'i r i^l I',' I- 272 EXCURSION TO CANADA, AND many of my old countrymen, as I received the half- dollar from them, looked at me as if bewitched, having had no notion of seeing me here. I had to speak before they were satisfied of my identity. Time rolled on, and no word of Peter. A lady and gen- tleman came out to me, and said they suspected it was all a hoax, and wished back their money ; I was about to comply with their demand, when three of Peter's friends came up and said I ought not to do so. Hereupon the gentleman said he would ap- ply to the i)olice; it was forty minutes past the hour, and he had no notion of being humbugged. I said I had no part in the affair but to receive the money and pay it over for behoof of the lecturer ; but that if he did not make his appearance I would return it when the hour elapsed. The gentleman then went out threatening to make me feel the con- sequences. Peter's friends also attempted to sneak off; but I peremptorily refused to let them go, say- ing that if there was any imposition, I had no hand in it, and as I had taken out and paid for my pas- sage in the ship which was to saU on Sunday, I would not nin the risk of being detained by the po- lice ; I would commit the first who attempted to stir, or make any disturbance. I also desired the door-keeper to take notice of tliem, and, if they attempted to go out, to call me. About ten minutes before the hour expired, Peter made his appearance pretty groggy ; he had drunk four tumblers of bran- dy to give him confidence. The lecture was fair ; he was occasionally applauded, and got through it respectably. I paid over the money to the proprie- tor of the room as directed. A number now pro- posed to take me to a Scotch house to give me a treat ; the landlord was a proper Sawney, and spoke the Scotish dialect broader than I had ever heard in Scotland. As he found much fault with me for cry- ing up my own country, I set him down for a swind- TIIKNCE BACK TO NEW-YORK. 273 ler :tnd sharper, ready to way-lay and spunge his less knowing countrymen. We had a room to our- selves — there would be above thirty present. I never was among such a squad of ruffians before ; and they yoked on me all and sundry because I liked Britain ; but I cut them short by saying it was a good place for honest men. When a son rails at and exposes his parent, a minute inspection will shew his own character to be none of the best. We continued till late, they railing against their country and I passively listening — to argue was needless. When we broke up, I said to Peter, " I must go home with you, as my house will be shut for the night.'' He did not seem to relish this proposal, as he had no bed ; but offered to see me safe to my own quarters. " I have been accustomed to the back- woods,'' I replied, " and can do without a bed.'* As I would not take a denial, he led me to a very mean looking frame-house a long way oif, and up a miserable stair, then, opening a door, ushered me into a very small room having a bed, in which were lying four men. There was just space enough to admit a chest between the wooden wall and the bed. There was another at the end opposite the window, and a third in front of the bed, but close to the par- tition, leaving just sufficient space for me to lie down on my back. Peter lay on the chest at the foot ; he had a quilt for a covering, I had none. The night was piercing cold, and I could readily see through the chinks in the clap-boards. One of our fellow-lodgers had been an apprentice to a surgeon in St Andrew Square, and was an old customer of my own. He had run up an account with me which he forgot to pay when he left Scotland, and, to make matters l)etter, carried off one of my books. — I fell in with many others besides Peter who had tricked me ; but they were as unable to pay me now as before. ^n going next morning to call on Mr Gibson^ J I I 274 EXGUBSION TO CANADA, AKI> Broome Street, late writer to the signet, the drift blowing keen, I observed a hog lying frozen to death on the street ; I also saw icicles hanging to the beards of both cows and hoi*ses. In New York the genie A people take their meals 5n the sunk area in summer because it is cool, and in winter because it is warm. Mr Gibson and his family were very kind to me ; he is partial to America. Revisited Grant Thorburn's; the cistern contai i- ing the gold fish was frozen into a solid block of ice, and they had a fine appearance. I got some seeds to bring to Edinburgh. Being in company with a printer, he told me that Mr Black, printer, one of those who fought and was wounded at Bonnymuir, during the time of the radical reform meetings in 1819, wrought sometime in his ofBce, but had lately gone to Montreal, being as sick of republican manners as he himself was, or as I was fit to be. This person wbls one of my fellow-passengers in the voyage home. In going along Greenwich street, I met with a Dr from Aberdeen, who had been often in my bhop : he came up and shook me cordially by the hand, saying he was glad to hear I had taken out my passage in the Camillus, as we should mess together. I said I had laid in a poor sea-store, but hoped to have a quick passage ; he assured me, however, that he had plenty, and would share it with me. He requested me to put some goods on board for him in my name, for he was afraid the captain would be suspicious, as he had a large quan- tity. I consented to do so ; but said he must not expect me to claim them in Greenock, for I was not going to run the hazard of being taken for a smug- gler. Peter kept always hanging on me ; but having laid in as much sea-stores as I could afford, reserv- ing only one sovereign, I was determined not to. .a**.if I B drift » death beards 'enteul ummer warm, to me ; lontai i- : of ice, le seeds me that ;ht and e of the imetime 1, being was, or of my et with often in ially by d taken lid mess Ba-store, ired me, share it roods on raid the re quan- nust not was not a smug- having reserv- not to THENCE BACK TO NEW YOAK. 275 change it ; and, after spending my last American coins in his company, I told him not to call on me again, as I would neither see him nor any one else. The New York dandies are sleighing in all di- rections—the horses decorated with many bells. Went on board ship, resolving not to be seen on shore again, as she was to clear out next morning. I cannot close this chapter without noticing a fal- lacy which I have heard again and again advanced. Many people are led to believe that Britaiu taxed in an inquisitorial and oppressive manner, and t in America there is little or no taxation. Thi ^, /- ever, is far from the truth. No person is permitted to open a shop or commence business in that country until he acquires the status of a citizen, which is only obtained after a three years'* residence, an oath of fidelity to the States, and a renunciation of hia own country, besides paying some dollars as the fee of enrolment ; after which he becomes liable to serve in the militia, as a fireman, or something of the sort. This regulation is appli'iable also to tavern-keepers, who besides must take ovi t a yearly license, for which they pay ten dollars, and to every description of tra- ders down to a common carter. Nay, in most of the States, no person can acquire a valid title to land till he has obtained the right of citizenship. But our travellers pass over all these trifling matters, and allow the deluded emigrant to find them out for himself. I knew a farmer who emigrated thither because his own country groaned under oppressive taxation. But the tax-gatherer found him out in America also ; and after he had valued every thing he saw, the emigrant happened to pull out his watch, which was instantly put down for assessment among the other items of the inventory. The emigrant was astonished and got angry ; but Jonathan got «qually so at being called in question in his official f I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 tatTA |Z5 ■* m 12.2 m lU ^^ £ |i° 12.0 11-25 III 1.4 Sdaices CorporatHm 23 WKT MAIN STRIIT WltSTIt,N.Y. I4SM (71o)l7a-4S09 276 EXGUBSION TO CANADA, SiC. capacity, and told him plainly, that if he endeavoured to conceal any part of his property, he would put him on oath, and fine him. Tax-gatherers in America are men of high standing, and go to work slickly. Our emigrant had made money at home, and he is losing it there ; but, like many others, he is ashamed to come back. 277 CHAP. VIII. VOYAGE HOME. A STORM AT SEA. 1 RECEIVED a note from a gentleman, that he had given the captain a pork-ham, to be consigned to my care, which he hoped I would deliver to his sister-in-law in Edinburgh ; also a parcel of books, and a packet with some letters. Having spoken to the captain about them, he told me the small pac- kets had been put aside, but that he would look them out and give them to me when he had time. As however I considered them safer in the cabin than in the steerage, I allowed them to remain. I also received a letter from Mr Calder, hat-manufac- turer, informing me that he had put on board to my care a barrel of apples, part of which I might use on the voyage, and give the remainder to his mo- ther-in-law in Rankeillor street. These the first mate, Mr Upton, told me he had put in the round- house for greater security. This gentleman also kindly offered me the use of his cabin to write in ; he was a native of Boston, a kind good man, and an able seaman. He had fDrmerly the charge of a ship larger than the Camillus, in which the last voyage he made was from New York to New Or- leans, with 108 passengers, 16 seamen, and one of the owners' sons. It was towards the end of Oc- tober before they arrived. The yellow fever and ague broke out in the ship a few days previous ; and there died of the passengers ninety-seven, and of the crew nine, also the owner"'s son. He had taken the fever himself just at landing, and suffered a re« kpse before he left the place. The people in th« ship A a . 278 VOYAGE HOME. were in a deplorable condition, and not less so ^vhen tiiey came ashore, every one seeming to have lost all feelings of humanity, and anxious for more deaths, that they might have a larger share of spoil. The country, he said, is so low-lying and sandy, that every hole made to bury the dead in was in- stantly filled with water, and that sand had to be thrown on the bodies to sink them. Tlie effluvia arising from putrefaction impregnated the air with pesti ential vapour; and they had ultimately to make huge fires and burn the dead. He drew a horrid picture of New Orleans ; besides the fever, loss of reason is very common, few being able to stand the climate above four years without suffering mental imbecility. He had accepted the situation of first mate here solely that he might have an op- portunity of renewing his health, and visiting Bri- tain, where he had often been before. We had an Irishman on board who had been in America for three years, and was returning to un- happy Ireland with all its distractions, leaving the good things in America to those who could get them. He said he had got nothing but hard labour and little pay ; had been in Canada as well as most places of the Union ; had saved as much as would pay his passage home ; and was delighted to leave America ere his little savings should be exhausted. It was a curious fact, he said, that not only travel- lers, but even one's own relations, were prone to deceive the public and their friends at home by speaking of the abundance to be had in America ; so that it was no wonder so many believed the tale. His sister had been the cause of bringing him here and ruining him ; for he had been induced to leave a small bit of land, of which he had a liferent lease, in Ireland, with a cow and several pigs, in conse- quence of her representations of what great things she and her husband were doing. They kept a ho- VOYAGE HOME. 279 tel, had several hundred acres of land, with many- horses, cows, and pigs, in a place a little way from Halifax. " I M'as such a fool as believe them,"" he said ; " I came — but they had cleared out no one knew where, nor any thing about them. If I had found them, I verily believe I should have mur- dered them. Winter was setting in, and what I had brought with me was soon spent in a boarding-house. Plague take such houses i"^ He gave me the prices of provisions there : A bushel of potatoes, 6s. 6d. ; a melon. Is. (in New York it only costs one penny) ; butter-milk, per quart, l^d ; butter. Is. 6d. per lib. ; beef, lOd. per lib. ; sheep^s-head and pluck, Is. 6d. ; cowVliver, Is. ; bread, per loaf. Is. ; shoes, 12s. per pair ; boots, six dollars. He said Halifax was as miserable a place for a poor man as any he ever saw. His sister he never met; and suspected he had been the dupe of some artful scoundrel, for he said he would never think of wishing his worst ene- my to come out ; — but that the whole country of Bri- tain was run mad, for they thought that, if they were once set down any where in America, they would want for nothing. *' Let them come !"" he continued, " I thank God I am on my way back." In a birth opposite to mine was a woman with three young children bom in America, the eldest under eight years of age, all girls, and white haired. She and her husband had thought to make matters better by coming out ; but they had only been r^n- dered worse. She was now returning to her father, who was still alive, her husband intending to fol- low. I had witnessed the parting, the father from the children, and they from their parent, and ex- pected to see weeping and wailing among them. But no ! I have geen more real sorrow at the separa- tion of ordinary acquaintances. They merely shook hands, and coolly bade each other farewell. This Aa2 280 VOYAGE HOME. is a cold-blooded-country; kindness is a plant of r«re growth ; and nobody cares for any one but himself. We had another female passenger who had been only about six months in America. She and her husband had gone out in the Science, M'here one of the cabin passengers had cut his throat. She said he had never been sober since he left Greenock. Her husband had got employment in New York liveringand loading vessels, but was drowned in con- sequence of missing a step on the plank on which he was about to cross the water ; and she was now on her way home to her father. We had a carpenter without tools, having drunk them all ; we had also two bakers, one who had been as far up in Canada as Lake Huron and the Huron-track, the other who had been out three years, and had wrought in sevfr. ral large towns, but never liked the place. We had two cabinet-makers, three masons, and a weaver who had been in garrison at Quebec, and who, after having got his discharge, had wrought a little in the States and Canada, but did not like them. We had a printer, named Joseph Taylor, who had been five years in America, and is now in Glasgow. He said he had been in purgatory all the time ; but he had left the country with as much money, and no more, than he took out M'ith him — a tale few can tell. We had a back-woodsman ^'ho had been a lumberer for three years, and was glad to come back poorer than he went out. We had other two, Irish labourers, the one named Barney Kane, with a wife and three children, who had been out three years, and the other of the name of Mooney, who had been only four months, but was as glad to escape lis the other. We had Dr ■ of Aberdeen, mentioned before, who had sailed backwards and for- wards many times; and three cabin-passengers^ a Wm VOYAGE HOME. 201 lady and two gentlemen, one of the latter with two children, having left his wife behind. I heard my name inquired after on deck several times this day; but as I had resolved to see no one, I always bade somebody pass the word that I wa&r on shore. Some doubts occurred to me what sort of a per- son the captain was, as there was not a hand on board but himself, the first mate, and steward, ex* cepting a few persons loading the vessel; and the ship was on the very eve of sailing. The mate had to see every thing stowed away, the shoremen seemingly careless of what they did, and only de- sirous to put off time. December \^th. — At 9 o'clock, a. m. the ship left the old slip, and was hauled out without a crew on board ; made sail, and came to anchor abreast of PauFs Hook. Several other ships were brought up here wait- ing for the wind shifting. The boats were all hoisted in and secured, and the shoremen paid oft'; they went away in a boat of their own. All this seemed very strange ; here we were with not a hand on board excepting the mate and stewaid, nor a boat alongside. In a short time, however, we saw one approaching with several hands, strange looking figures, who proved to be one a Frenchman, two Portuguese, one a Dutchman, one an English- man, three Americans, and a man of colour, all so drunk that they had difficulty in getting up the ship''s side. The bedding and chests of such as pos- sessed these articles were also put on board; but some of them had neither chest, bedding, nor bags. I never saw such a motley crew in any British ship-; though I had seen something like it on board an American man of war. They were Falstaffs recruits over again; a British commander would have been ashamed of such a squad, some of them Aa3 *. ' 282 VOYAGE HOMK. mere boys too. A smart parson of a Yankee or Jewish-like appearance also came up the ship'^s side^ and went aft into the cabin with the captain ; and after remaining a short time, they M'ent ashore to- gether in the captain'*& boat. The seamen now be- gan to drink and make a noise in the forecastle. The first mate was busy overhauling the running gear, and examining every thing by himself, with a minuteness that showed he had taken a heavy charge upon him. To a question I put regarding the behaviour of the men, he said, *^ Let them enjoy themselves to night; I will find plenty for them to do to-morrow." One of them having come out of the fore-castle now offered his assistance ; but he was so drunk that he could not stand, and the mate clapped him on the shoulder, bidding him be a good fellow, and go into the fore-castle to sleep. It is a common practice for seamen to be engaged for the voyage out and home again, and then to be f aid off. This is done in Britain as well as in America ; and shore-men are employed to liver the ship. At every arrival the shirks of boarding-house keepers and publicans in America are on the alertt. Their conduct in New York reminded me of our coach- porters laying hold of the passengers' luggage, and almost taking it by force ; for they act in the self-same manner either with the emigrants or sea- men, both of whom are easily spunged. The sea- men are generally kept drunk the ^hole time they are in the house. Crimps are employed by captains who have no character to engage hands for them when they are going to sail ; these men know where to find them, engage them, and get them to sign the ship's articles. The poor fellows, are generally in debt to the boarding-house- keeper, however short time they may have been with him ; the crimp gives them some pay in advance, which enables them to clear with him ; and he receives his reward Iff VOYAGE HOME. 2fid both from the boardin^-house-keeper and the captain, no mistake. Jack is thus flattered to get into a boat with his higgage, drunk as he is, and is brought on board without knowing either the name of the ship or her place of destination. This was precisely the case with the crew we had recently taken on board ; and when they got a little sober, and saw they had caught a tartar, they were for hoisting out a boat to go ashore. The captain, however, threatened them with imprisonment, as they had signed the articles ; but they paid no regard to this, and proceeded to unlash the boat. The captain then got hold of a rope''s end, which he began to administer with no sparing hand, a species of argument they did not seem to relish, as they fled from his presence in a dastardly manner. Had they been all British sea- men, I am convinced they would have chucked hini> overboard rather than submit to such usage. Thi» was another sample of American liberty. The sea- men retired into the fore-castle, vowing bloody vengeance over their cups on the captain and the ship. They had a quantity of brandy which they kept in a knave, that is, an earthen-ware vessel shaped like a barrels, and poured it into panikins, or tin-jugs like those used by children. The captain burst in upon their orgies, seized the knave, and mounting on deck, chucked it with its conteil?. over- board. The craven hearts, a portion of \/honi had always liberty on the tip of their tongue, said nothing. The first mate, Mr Upton, was also silent. A British commander durst not give such' treatment to any one on board his ship, else he would smart for it on shore ^ but it is not easy for me to define American freedom — Mr Stuart of Dunearn, the traveller, can do it however. December 19th. — The mate, as soon as it was day, had all the hands up that he considered able, to go; aloft to overhaul and reive the running rigging.. 284 VOYAGE HOME. The English sailor said to him, in my hearing, *< These main foot-ropes are so far gone that I am afraid to trust to thcm/^ The mate bade him keep a firm hold by the robins, as he had not time to ex- amine them at present. The Frenchman, in going up the cat-harpings, appeared as if he was about to fall, which the captain observing ordered him down on deck, and taking a ropers end gave him a severe starting ; I am certain I have seen a man receive three dozen of lashes in a British ship, and not be so severely punished. The poor fellow was a little old man, but a good seaman ; and after this event I observed him always shun the captain as much as he could. I was now really convinced that our cap- tain was a tyrant of the first order. It came on to blow a violent gale from the north east, which soon increased to a hurricane — a north- easter is a dangerous gale in the bay of New York. The Ajax, a Liverpool liner, a powerful ship, which had run down a vessel of about equal tonnage to ours in her last voyage, drifted down upon us drag- ^ng three anchors a-head, ran foul of our larboard quarter, carried away the bunkin for the larboard main-brace and part of the mizzen chains, and injured our quarter gallery. She was brought up almost un- der our stern. Shortly afterwards, another powerful ship, also dragging three anchors a-head, drifted down on us, and was brought up within a few 3''ards of our jib-boom. Our condition was now one of great peril, as we M'-ere likely to be nipped between them ; the vessel pitched and rolled violently ; and the passengers all got very sick. Having a power- ful telescope, I kept on deck, sweeping the horizon around ; the waves were high ; the squall terrible. Saw the spray breaking over Castle-Garden ; part of the park was covered with water. Observed boats plying in Washington street and Greenwich street. Paul's Hook was overflown to a considerable depths VOYAGE HOME. 285 th. 8iine of the trees and houses covered with water. I observed six ships driven on shore, and a schooner of considerable burden fairly upset; whether the crew were drowned I never learned. The whole bay, as far as my vision could carry me, along East River and Brooklyn, and up North River, was covered with wreck ; logs, clap-boards, flour-barrels, lime-barrels, beef-barrels, strewed about — indeed the wreck was composed of every variety. A frame- house came floating past our ship within a few yards of us; it was almost lying on its back; the windows were broken, and the door shut. This convinced me of what I had always suspected, that it is possible for an American house to be floated away ; the inmates, however, would not be so safe as those in Noah''s Ark were. 1'he Dutchman might be excused for believing, when he first saw an Ame- rican steam-boat, M'ith the walking-beam high above deck, that it was a saw-mill afloat ; and wondered what the people were all staring at. ' The hurricane lasted about four hours, when at 4 p. M. it moderated. Boats were now seen in every direction picking up the wreck which M'as fast float- ing to seaward with the tide ; very little could be saved owing to the night approaching, and the wind still blowing high. There were several houses on fire in New York at the same time. Our perilous situ- ation having been observed from tho shore, a pilot came on board with the first opportunity. He told us that the old slip we had removed from the day previous was nearly broken up, and a very great deal of damage done to the shipping ; the level of the streets next the slips was completely destroyed, some parts being raised and others depressed up. wards of six feet, by the violence of the waves and the concussion of the vessels driven in, many of which were lying high and dry on the streets after the sea had subsided. Several houses had been thrown down 286 VOYAGE HOME. and washed away ; shops and cellars lying towards East River were filled with water to the fourth street back, through which many boats were plying to save the goods and lives of the inhabitants. He said that there had not been such a storm in New York for forty years ; that the number of lives lost was un- known, but the damage done to property would amount to many hundred thousand dollars ; and that we had made a fortunate escape, as few ships in the harbour had not received material injury, particularly those about the old slip. He now ex- amined our vessel ; but found the injury not so great as to render it necessary that we should put back to refit. The Ajax and the other ship ahead of us now began to unmoor. This was a dangerous operation ; we had to use warps to drag our vessel aside, as the cables of the Ajax came right below her. The wind was still blowing fresh, but this was no time for dallying; we were astern of the Ajax when the last anchor was raised from the ground, and she had some of her sails set to bear her away from us. We had a hawser fastened to her stern to make her heel round ; but as soon as the last anchor was raised from the ground, she drifted down on us like a fury, her anchors hanging at the bows. Each of the pilots in both ships now gave the word at the same moment, " Let go every thing V The order was promptly obeyed. Some used fen- ders and some poles to keep us separate ; the fore- chains of the Ajax grazed our main-chains as she passed us, and the yards touched, but being free they swung round, and she darted off' like a shot, drifting with the tide. Having thus got clear of the danger, she came to anchor about half a mile from us. At 8 p. M. the wind rose again, and we had a heavy hail-storm ; weather bitterly cold. The fire bells of New York rung several times this night. December 20^/<,-^ a. m. A considerable c^uaatity ,'y«2. VOYAGE HOME. P 287 tity of snow had fallen during the night, the ground be- ing covered with it ; morning cold and clear ; mate and seamen busy overhauling and reiving the run- ning gear ; wind veered a little to the north >vest. At 10 A. M. the pilot came on board, and it was now all hands unmoor ship, a-hoy ! The Ajax and se- veral other vessels were busy weighing their anchors to " Yo heave ho,'' while others Mere manning the tackle-falls, hauling home the sheets, hoisting the yards, and setting the braces, to various songs sung to different metres, the most common one to be heard all around being something like this : Clap on the haulyards, my boys, do it cheerily ; Up ! up ! — she rises so quick and so merrily ; "We are bound for Britain, boys, the wind is whistling cheerily — Full away hearty, boys, and see you do it merrily, Merrily— merrily — merrily — merrily I Pull away cheerly, boys, and see you do it merrily ! When the anchor was brought to the bows, I ob- served part of the chain-cable ; and the flues had been deeply imbedded in blue clay of a fine quality. Passed Long Island; the white painted houses contrasted with the snow had now a chilling appear- ance. Last time I had seen them they looked clean, comfortable, and even shewy in the distance. The hospitals on St.itcn Island, also white pain- ted, bore the same cheerless aspect, and put me in mind of some pale-faced sickly woman dressed in white garments on a snowy day. But I was on my way home now, and my heart was not to be depressed — Let those who might boast of America take it to themselves; I thanked God I had no farther concern with it. The ships which had left the anchor ground with us soon passed on, and were out of sight. The pilot now took his departure, having taken us safe through the reefs in Sandy Hook. These reefs run far out ; and the breakers 288 VOYAGE HOME. bursting over them are readily seen. It is a dan^ gerous port to enter in an unfavourable wind. The anchors were taken in on diM k and secured, and the cables stowed away below. Passed Sandy Hook ; the sea changed to green. At sun-down, the hindmost ship, laid on an easterly direction, was faintly seen in the eastern horizon, and Sandy Hook light-house in the west ; in a short time we were left to ourselves without any visible object. The mate and seamen had been very busy tins day overhauling every thing. December 21st. — 8 a. m. Blowing fresh, and in our favour ; ship by the log making eight knots an hour ; sea changed to blue, indicating no soundings ; v/cather cold and clear ; no object in our horizon ; ship rolling much ; some crockery broken ; passen- gers all sick ; seamen and mate busy overhauling and repairing. The captain was not seen on deck this day. The first mate, observing that the pumps sucked, had them taken out and examined, and stuffed the boxes ; they still drew air, but he could not discover where the fault lay ; ship pumped t>vice during the watch. December 22d. — 8 a. m. Wind died away ; the water smooth as glass, but slightly agitated M'ith an undulating motion ; ship rolling lazily but heavily. The first mate told me this calm was ominous, as he knew by the appearance of the sky ; he had the seamen and second mate busily employed overhaul- ing and repairing. The carpenter was asked to make a boom for the larboard main- brace, which he refused to do, alleging that he had made an offer to the captain to work his passage home, and after- wards even tendered payment of half the passage- money in addition, both of which had been declined ; he was therefore resolved not to lift a tool in the ship unless for payment. A passenger named An- derson, a joiner, now agreed to make the boom, 'ice the an ily. as the aul- l to ige- \ed ; the lAn- Voyage home. 239 though he could hardly keep his feet from sea sick- ness and the rolling of the vessel; it M'as fitted in, and the block fastened. We are now in the gulf- stream ; although the weather is piercing cold, the AVater is warm. The little nautiluses, or Portu- guese men-ot-war, are cruizing around us in numbers. . I caught several of them. Captain not on deck this whole day. December 23d. — 8 a. m. Blowing fresh, but in our favour ; all the sails taken down except the fore, main, and mizzen top-sails, close-reefed. Top- gallant masts, yards, and rigging taken down, stowed away and secured ; ship going eight knots by the log ; sea in dreadful commotion ; ship rolling heavi- ly ; pumps sucking, taken out and stuffed again, then replaced — but they still sucked; first mate scarcely ever off the deck ; men very busy ; captain not on dedt this day ; passengers very sick. December 24ith. — 8 a. m. Wind in our favour, and more moderate; shook out two reefs of the fore and main topsails ; set the foresail, taking off a reef ; ship going eight knots; weather thick ; no sun for observation ; passengers recovering ; captain not seen on deck this day ; ship rolling much ; men very busy — have to pump ship three times during the watch. December 2oth. — 8 a. m. Wind veered to north- east, against us; going under close-reefed topsails close-hauled. A passenger named Barney Kane, M'hose wife had been confined to bed ever since we sailed, M'as airing his blanket and the rest of his bed-clothes, when suddenly a gust of wind sprung up and blew the blanket out of his hands overboard, and himself into the lee-scuppers. One of the other passengers, a mason, said laughingly to him, " It is too bad in your brother Hurry-Kane (hurricane) to take aM'ay your blanket and knock you over too, Bb M 290 VOYAGE HOME. Barney Kane.*" Barney was a good deal bruised and dumfoundered, and got besides a severe lecture for his carelessness from his better half. He said he wished he had left her in America, for she was a plague to him, cooking and cleaning for her and the childer. The other passengers laughed heartily at liis mischance. At two p. m. the wind increased to a heavy gale ; all the sail but the foresail (close- reefed) was taken off the ship. The sea rose in ter- rific majesty, the ship rolling and pitching violently, and thereby straining the hull, which caused its crazy seams to yawn, and to leak much, heavy seas occasionally breaking over us, and rushing like a cataract down the hatches. The mate caused pre- A'en tor-braces to be put up on the fore and main- vards. He came in to his cabin where I was writ- ing, and said, " I told you we should get it."" We had no observation this day, the sun not being visi- ble. The captain not having been seen on deck for several days, various rumours were circulated as to the cause. Passengers very sick ; beds and bedding soaked with water. Providence is always gracious ; though you lie down in a wet bed, you soon get into heat, and continue so even though the Avater pours upon you. December 26th. — Gale continuing with great vio- lence ; sea and sky seemingly incorporated into one element ; chests and barrels breaking loose from their lashings ; pots, pans, and crockery broken ; two chests stove useless ; passengers screaming ; Barney Kane praying. The mason said to him, " Now, Barney Kane, just get up wid you, and tell your brother Hurry-Kane to be aisy." Ship leaking much ; pumps constantly going, but sucking. Some of our water-casks having begun to loosen from the pitching of the ship, I went and informed the mate. He had just laid himself down in his wet clothes, in a wet bed, but rose at once, got some VOYAGE HOMK. 291 spare sails, and jammed them in between the casks Had they once got loose, he said, we could not have managed them ; they would have rolled through the ship's side. At 12 noon a heavy shower of rain fell, and the wind lulled considerably. We never missed the captain, though he was still invisible, for the first mate was every where, and at all times ; he kept up a constant watch. I this day missed the bacon-ham I had got charge of, which lay in the round-house, and which, as I was in the mate'*s ca' bin writing sometimes three or four times a-day, had seen daily in its place. I felt vexed at this oc currence, and offered a reward of a bottle of rum to the person who should restore it to where it was* and promised that no questions should be asked, told the captain, who was lying unwell in his cabin, that I considered him liable for the loss, as he had got it in charge from the gentleman to give to me. He answered that he was liable for nothing except what was on the ship's books, but that he would see about it. The first mate also ordered the cook, if any person should bring ham to fry or boil, to in- form him of the circumstance ; and seemed very angry that there should be thieves in the ship. At last the ham was brought back by some one ; and I paid the bottle of rum without asking any questions. The first mate now put it into his own cabin for safety. December 2']th, — 8 a. m. Wind high; all the sails taken off tl ? ship but the fore-top-sail and fore- course, (close reefed) and mizzen stay-sail ; the jib tried, but split into tatters ; sea and sky blended into one. Our horizon would not exceed twenty yards, Providence seeming to have drawn a curtain around, that much of our forlorn condition might be concealed from our view ; but we saw sufficient to make us fully aware of our own weakness and help- lessness. This is now the fourth day since our decks Bb2 292 VOYAGE HOME. have been dry. Ever and anon the sea rose up in a moment into pinnacles, and the commotion of the waves threw out a frothy substance, termed by sea- men " white sheep,'' and wliich in the dark emitted phosphoric particles of such brilliancy as to malce death and destruction visible. Occasionally one of these pinnacles would rise under the ship's larboard side, lifting her up like a cork, and heeling her over till the starboard yard-arms touched the water ; then it would rise under the starboard side, and the lar- board yard-arms would be touching the water ; again it would rise under her bows, when the ship woukl seem to be sitting on her stern ; and yet again, it would rise under her stern, and her prow woukl seem to be buried in the waves. At times she woukl dash right through one of these pinnacles, when the water would rush on the decks, overflowing them to the height of several feet ; sometimes they broke over both gangways, sometimes over the prow, and sometimes over the stern, hurling destruction along %vith them. This day a dog was washed over- board. The wind howled mournfully through the shrouds, and the masts creaked as if they would go by the board, the ship trembling and shivering like a man in an ague-fit. The watei: ?t intervals came rushing down the hatches in such quantities as apparently would soon fill the vessel. I spent a good part of this night on deck, careless of life, which it seemed would soon be at an end. After I had gone down below and stript oft' and wrung nay wet clothes, I turned into my wet bed. I had not lain long when we shipt a sea that came in upon us like a torrent. " May the Lord receive our souls !'"* cried Barney Kane ; *' it is now over." The wo- men screamed) and the men prayed ; the woman whom I had seen part with her husband left her three children in her own birth, and though the deck was more thaij ancle-deep oi water, flew across aij4 i=3S VOYAGE HOME. 293 jumped like a maniac into mine, crying out, " Let me die in your company !" 1 bade her be quite, it was no use to make a noise. I then told her to lie down, and I would bring her children to her. This I accordingly did, and having put on my clothes laid myself down on some wet sails. Pumps are now constantly going, but still sucking. This day the captain was seen on deck for the first time since we left Sandy-Hook. December 2Qth. — Storm continued ; ship rolling and pitching same as yesterday. The top-sail and mlzzen stay-sail were taken off, and the fore-course close-reefed ; another jib was bent on and tried, but blown to tatters before it was set ; no sun ; sea and sky seemingly blended into one at a few yards from the ship. Our steerage was now floating ancle-deep ; so was the cabin. At four p. m. a dreadful hail- squall overtook us, which laid us over on our beam- ends. The ship lay as if taking a rest for some time, then righted, and quivered and shook as if she would break asunder. At six p. m. I was standing be- hind the windlass, beholding a sight which few have seen and lived to tell, and which words are inade- quate to describe. The night was very dark, not a star to be seen ; you was only aware of being on the sea from the motion of the ship. As the waves dashed against the prow, or the sides of the ship, the white foam was occasionally beautifully tinged with phosphoric light ; while beyond, even to a very short distance, the divine hand had, as it were, hung a dark screen that was nearly impenetrable, except when an occasional phosphoric flash darting through the gloom revealed an expanse of sea seemingly all on fire. While I was musing alone on the awful sub- limity of the scene, a wave came over the ship^s bows and carried me aft along with it ; fortunately, I caught hold of the main rigging, and held on with a Bba \ 29i TOYACE ItOMZ. death-like grasp till the decks were again free, when I went below. This, was another dismal night ; hut the passengers seemed more resigned. We were now on the Banks of New Fbundland; Many prayers were put up to the Almighty promising amendment if He in His ntercy would spare us, all of which were soon afterwards broken. One of the main-top-sail earings having given way, the En- glish seaman was sent up to repair it ; and as the ship was rolling dreadfully, he however holding on, but executing his work clumsily, and putting off a great deal of time, the first mate cried out, ** Are you a seaman, Sir, or what are you ?'^ The man stared at him. ** You are no seaman,^ cried the first mate, " you are an Irishman ; come down^ Sir ! you will fall off the yard ;'' and he went up and did the work himself. I asked him what he meant by saying the man was an Irishman; he replied that an Irishman is a ready man who can put his hand to any thing, but that he had never seen a perfect seaman from that country. December 29th. — A little past 4 a. m. Wind blowing fearfully ; the sea rising into pinnacles, or undulating hills, which reminded me of America. I never wearied in looking at the majesty of the sea dur^ ing such a commotion. I fancied that if the whole inhabitants of the globe, with all their pride, power* and knowledge, had been gathered within the bounds of our limited horizon, and if the Almighty were to forsake them for one moment, it would only be one faint and dismal shriek such as I was in the habit of hearing of late, wh^ all their pride, pomp, and power would be laitl low. Mr Upton had just lain down in his wet clothes upon his wet bed,, as usual — for he was in the practice of being on deck and busily employed in all kinds of weather, and at every watch — and had just fallen asleep, when tbQ captain desired the second wate to cjQi him, and was informed he had only i«i S TOYAGE HOMZ. 295 BOW gone to rest. " Call him, Sir !*' he repeated angrily (this was during the captain and second niate''8 watch). He was accordingly called np, and the captain said, " We have sprung a leak, Mr Upton, and are sinking. I have plumbed the well, and find we have three feet water C and he trem- bled like his own frail ship. Mr Upton looked about him with all the coolness of a man prepared for every emergency, and said, " I don't think it ; she seems to buoy well up (tramping the deck with his foot.) At the time I turned in there were just twenty-one inches, and the weather has been steady since then, for I desired the second mate to keep a sharp look-out, and to rouse me if the gale increased, or any thing elise occurred.'" " Will you plumb the M'ell, Mr Upton ?'' said the captain. " Yes, sir," he replied, and went forward to the galley, with the plumb-line and iron-rod^ rubbisd tlie kUter with ashes to dry it, then chalked it, and plumbed^ '* Twenty-two inches," he said to the trembling captain, who stammered out, " Are you quite sure .'''*' " I think so," replied. Mr Upton ; ** but I will try it again." He dried the sounding- rod as before, and having chalked it, plumbed once more, saying it was now scarcely twenty-two inches. ** But," he continued, "I will dry the rod, and come you forward and plumb yourself." The captaia said there was no occasion, but he thought she was settling down. The mate now went to the pump, took hold of the handle,^ and cried, " Gheer up, my hear- ties ! we are gaining on her — just fourteen inches !" At te» A. M. the wind lulled considerably, and the sea subsided ; the sun shone with unusual splendour ; the pumps were taken out and overhauled ; the boxes again stuffed, and replaced— still they sucked ; an- other jib was bent on and set. The passengers now came on deck to get the air ; part of it was dry fo» the ficst time these five days past. The first mate^ 296 VOYAGE HOME. who was very busy putting every tiling to rights, said to me, ** The captain got a fright this morn- ing ; but she is a good ship, though in bad repair, and this storm has been a trying one. If she had gone down, our boats could not have lived in such a sea. The tempest, however, is not yet over ; this is but a blink before a storm, as your countiymen say." At eight p. M. the ship began to roll heavily, and con- tinued doing so during the night. December '6Qth. — 8 a. m. Ship going four knots an hour and rolling much ; wind greatly abated ; sea rough ; day clear and cold. Some of the stormy- petrels and other sea-fowl were seen hovering around and over us. The widow came on deck this day, the weather being fair, and displayed her finery ; she had rings on every finger, and on some of them three. We have another female passenger on board, who is far from prudent. .- i December 2\st. — 8 a. m. Little wind ; ship go- ing three knots an hour ; day cold and clear ; sun bright ; seamen very busy putting things to rights. At six p. M. the mate told me we should have a gale immediately. The fore and main 4;op-sails were close-reefed ; the fore-course, one reef, the main and mizzen top-sails, and stay-sails taken in. At 8 p. m. the fore-sail was taken in, and the wind began to blow with great violence from the north-east. January 1«#, 1834. — 8 a. m. Gale increased to a hurricane, with hail and sleet. The mason said to Barney, "It is too bad in your brother Hurry- Kane to be teazing us at this rate ; go on deck wid you, and spake to him." Barney exclaimed, " May the Lord receive our souls ! for the ship is going down." Every succeeding sea as it rose swept our decks, and rushed down the hatches even though shut — they were not waves, but I really cannot de- scribe what they resembled ; ship quivering ; masts creaking ; pumps going. To look at the convulsed «tate of the sea was truly dismal ; but to be below -.^, VOYAGE HOME. 297 a I to in the dark waiting our fate was M'orse. This was a sad new-year^s day to us. At 8 p. m. I remarked, " Our relations at home at this time will he making themselves merry; let us drink to their good healths." I had some hrandy, which I produced, saying, " I intend to empty this with your permission ; and ht all of us, man and wbnian, drink glass after glass till it is finished." Taking ahumper myself, I gave a toast : " May none of us endeavour, by gilding our adventures, to induce any one to come to the land of freedom ! We are all now progressing homewards through the Slough of Despond ; whe- ther we reach our own country or not, is a dubious question ; but let us still hope we shall." Three cheers were given to my toast. The other passen- gers contributed some more liquor. We endeavoured in this manner to forget the storm ; and with sing- ing and merriment drowned the howling of the blast, at least below ; laughing at those who wexe nearest the hatch when the water came rushing down on them. January 2d. — Gale continued, but the wiiul veered a little in our favour. We had only our fore-course and fore-topsail set; they were close- reefed. We tried to sf t the jib ; but it was soon torn into tatters; the sea running high; Mother- GareyVchickens or the stormy-petrels hovering around, seemingly rejoicing at our terrors ; our ill- omened ship seemed to be doomed to destruction. At 3 p. M. wind lulled a little, and we set our main topsail with one reef, shook out two reefs of the fore-topsail, and one out of the fore-course ; bent on and hoisted another jib; ship going six knots an hour. January Sd. — 8 a. m. Wind in our favour ; tlie main-sail and mizzen set ; no sun. We had several hail-showers with rain and sleet ; ship close-hauled> going ftve knots an hour ; weather cold. 298 VOYAGE HOME. January ^ih. — 8 a. m. Ship on her course, but close-hauled, making four knots an hour ; day clear, but cold. January 5th. — 8 a. m. Ship still on her course, but close-hauled, making four knots an hour ; day clear, but cold. At 6 p. m. the wind rose and blew terribly. This was another dismal night. January 6th. — 4 a. m. Hearing the men busy on deck, I went up. The fore- yard had been car- ried away and broken in the slings ; the yard-arms were hanging by the lifts ; the fore-course was torn ; the men, even the first mate, were all on the fore- top-sail yard furling the sail. It had been the cap- tain and second maters watch, and the latter had gone into the round-house, and fallen asleep ; a squall came on suddenly, and carried away the yard, and almost wrecked the vessel. The captain was swearing at him tor his carelessness at a great rate ; and no wonder. He was, however, a good seaman, though lazy. The ship now seemed perfectly un- manageable ; guys were made fast to the yard-arms to guide them in on deck ; the jib was set, and the best steersman among the crew put to the wheel, who was obliged to allow her almost to choose her own way. In bringing in the larboard and lee^yard- arm, the second mate got out on the fore-rigging and astride the yard-arm to fasten on another guy, as the ship was rolling much ; when a heavy sea broached us on the starboard beam, and drove the galley and boats, hen-coops, spars, and barrels from midships on to the larboard gangway. The ship at this moment having given a heavy lurch to larboard, the second mate, along with the yard-arm, which was still hanging by the lift, was driven into the sea ; but the ship having heeled again he was pitch- ed in on the fore-castle, the yard-arm accompany- ing him. Here he held on till the first mate in a moment of time got a hitch on the yard, and gave a ti swi^ \\\\r\ on t| thei duril woul L «r VOYAGE HOME. 299 irse, but ly clear, • course, Lir; day nd blew en busy een car- ird-arms as torn ; he fbre- the cap- ;ter had eep ; a he yard, ain was at rate ; seaman, ctly un- rd-arms and the wheel, >ose her e-yard- vy sea )Te the 8 from ship at board, which to the pitch • ipany- e in a gave T a turn on the windlass, to prevent the yard from swinging outward again. The second mate was not hurt. The yard was quickly unrigged, and lashed on the booms. A block of another spare yard was then hastily taken from the booms and rigged, and during the operation every other while a heavy sea would break over us. It was six hours before the yard was rigged and slung aloft, and the sail bent. The ship rolled much all this day, and laboured heavily, gunwales nearly under. We observed an immense log of mahogany float past within two yards ; had it come in contact with the ship, it would have driven clean through her. This had been a terrible day. The galley and boats, though not yet replaced in midships were strongly lashed; ropes were put across the ship to hold on by ; at sun-down we had the fore- course set. We spent another awful night, but can now look death in the face ; hope is almost gone. January ^th. — Storm continued with great fury ; heavy squalls of hail and sleet occasionally ; sea continually running over us. This day our coals were exhausted, owing to the culpable conduct of the captain in not having taken in a sufficient supply at the first. About 12 noon we shipped from the starboard beam another sea, which nearly sent the galley, along with the cook, boats, barrels, spars, and hen-coops, overboard. The spars and hen-coops were taken aft and jammed in between the com- panion and bulwark on the starboard side. Some of our larboard bulwarks gave way, and several casks and spars were washed overboard. Had any intending emigrant seen our deplorable condition at this time, he would have thought twice before he would have encountered such a risk, even for a paradise in prospect. It was really no joke with us ; the condition of the women especially was deplor- able; the one who had left her husband in New York told me she had not been in bed for four doo VOYAGE HOME. nights, and had remained all that time in her M'et clothes. As day-light left us, and night came on, it brought a change, but no hope of relief ; the day had been dreadful, the night was terrible. January ilM.— -Gale continued ; stormy petrels hovering around our ship, M'hich the Almighty seemed to Imve devoted to destruction. Thciso birds used to rise on the wing, and at times settle on the undulating pinnacles surrounded M'ith white foam when they surged into a peak ; and at others into the valley between these pinnacles. They were strong — we were M'eak ; they eeemcd to rejoice in the storm — we were dismayed. Occasionally squalls of sleet and hail would pass over us, laying us nearly on our beam-ends ; the seams of our sides and up- per-decks yawning as if they were about to separate. At 2 p. M. a sea broke over us and carried away some more barrels, and other piu'ts of our bulwarks ; sea and sky seemed to meet at a short distance from the ship ; weather cold, with hail, sleet, and snow. At 6 p. M. wind lulled considerably ; seamen very busy putting things to rights. The first mate told me the storm was not yet over, but he had hopes that we would weather it. '4 , *.'dya<;e home. 801 through the sea, we .^nv the spray rising over her prow sparkling with phusphoric light ; the white- sheep also rising thick around u»<, and throwing out their sparkles. Again we npent a ni((ht of horror ; at every creak of the shattered vessel, some fell a- screaming, others a-pru) itig ; the waves incessantly breaking over us; pumps working, but sucking, which made the labour more severe. January \Oth, — Gale continued, our danger be- coming more apparent as the day broke ; but we were perfectly helpless. The sea in its convulsed state seemed like a number of cups tumbled bottom up- wards, as described in the preceding voyage, each throwing up M'hite foam, and never keeping its posi- tion a moment. All this day we were scudding under close-reefed fore-sail. The captain and the first mate stood by turns beside the steersmen, looking over the stem, and holding on by the rope which had been stretched across the ship, directing them to put the helm to starboard or to larboard, in order to keep in line with the sea, which, however, went faster than us ; it pressed on us in terrible majesty, over- flowing our deck from stern to stem. While the captain was taking his turn, a sea suddenly took the rudder, and made the wheel spin round. One of tlie steersmen had his arm broken, the sea rushing over the stem having carried him forward ; he got hold of a rope, and held on till assistance was brought. This last shock almost settled us ; the ship quivered and shook as if in the act of falling to pieces ; and a piercing shriek was sent up from below. At 4 p. m. wind lulled considerably ; seamen and first mate busy putting things to rights again. Sitting in this gentleman's cabin and propping myself up the best way I could, with paper before me, which was soon rendered unfit for any use by the water which oozed from the ceiling falling upon it, he happened 302 VOYAGE HOME. I' to come in upon me, when I began to apologize, saying that I was afraid I was in his way. " No/* he replied, *^ this is my cabin ; use it at all tim^ when you have a mind to. I must overhaul every thing — ^this is only a breathing time, for the storn is not over ; we shall have it in a few hours again. God only knows how it may terminate. But she is a good ship, and built of British oak, which is in our ^vour, tor Mhe has been put to a severe trial'^^ He had on his storm-hat made of canvass, the hindn part of the rim so large that it covered his should, ders ; it was tied round his neck with a lanyard. His face was flushed with anxiety and the exertions he had been making ; wherever danger was, there was he, on the weathsr or the lee-yard-arm — indeed every where, examining all with the eye of an Intel* ligent seaman who had taken upon himself to do kis best for the general safety. He was of mild demeanour, yet gave his orders with firmness, promptitude, and decision, and no one ever disputed them. In my opinion he was among the bravest of the brave ; though I cannot say as much for the eaptain, who seemed to me both a tyrant and a eoward, yet, I tiiink, an able seaman. Januai'y 11th.— rS o^clock a. m. Gale comment ced again with tremendous fury; hail and sleet; our devoted ship quivering at every sea that struck her frail and yawning sides. Daylight appeared to show us our helplessness. We had a monkey on hoard, and a dirty mischievous creature it was ; it died this day from fear and cold, having been sick for some time before. Long had we wearied to de*- scry a friendly sail, as we had not seen a ship of any kinid since we parted company at Sandy-Hook. This day we saw a brig, but the sight was not an en-p couraging one. She seemed to be in as distressed a condition as ourseives ; indeed* whatever might oc* cur, we could not render any assistance to each VOTAC£ noMt. dod a father. Her bulwarks were pdrtif earned atrifrf ; she was lying-to. We could oeeasionalfy see hall her keel, as the sea hove her high up itt thd air ; then §he would sink into a valley, and we would lose fitght of her altogether, and think she had sunk. Sometimes she would be nearly clos^ to us, and sometimes as far asunder as the very verge of our horizon, which, however, was but a limited one, as the sea and sky were mingled together at a short distance. Thus the pleasure we had anticipated from having a companion in our distress became ft source of additional anxiety and alarm i and W6 felt truly gl»d when she vanished from our light. The stormy petrels were hovering over and iuround us, occasionally resting securely on the troubled sea, and composedly looking at our pe^ tileus situation. We were now scudding tfadet Ibre-sail, fore and main-top-sail, close-reefed ; yet tibe sea went faster than us, occasionally rising over ovsr taffirail, and sweeping the deck forward. The captain and first mate by turns again took their station beside the steersmen, directing and g«uding them ; yet nothing could arrest the fury of th^ waves, Which continued to overtake us^ and, pas^ ting over from stem to stem, cohered the deck sometimes to the height of sie^eral feet. The sea "was fitill covered with undulating pinnacles of white foam, which shifted their position continually^ and appeared, when we got into any of the intervening ta'oughs, as the seamen call them, to be higher at t^mes than our top-mast head. The sbip pitched and rocked as if she would roll her masts overboard. Night came on, which caused the dark veil to narrow ftround us ; and fatigued and ejfbafusted as I was, though I never tired looking at the cmnmotion of the terrible element, I went below, stript off my wet clothes^ and turned into my wet bed, winch socHi be^ c e-^ 304 TOYAGE HOME. came warm, and fell asleep. I had not long enjO)c ed repose when a wave took us on the starboard side, and the person who occupied the same birth and outside of me, was pitched into midships, and jseverely bruized. I caught hold of the lashings of my trunk, which I had secured inside the birth, and held on. At 8 p. m. the water gained on us fust, and the ship laboured so heavily that the first mate proposed to lay her te. He now came to the storm or scuttle-hatch of the steerage, drew it back, and putting his head down, said, *' Gentlemen, my men are nearly exhausted ; I require all your as- sistance on deck immediately. If you do not come in five minutes, we shall be in eternity." This wag said in a determined voice, and while he was yet speaking a sea came ever the ship, and rushed down the hatch like a cataract. He stood thtt shock with perfect composure, and resumed, " I am not jesting ; bear a hand all of you who hare any anxiety to save yourselves." He then closed the hatch to prevent the water from rush-# ing down. Barney Kane uttered with a loud voice his usual interjection, '^ May the I^ord re^ ceive our souls !" " Up wid you, Barney Kane 1" said the mason, as he was hastily putting on hii own clothes, " and spake to your brother, Hurry- Kare ; it is too bad in him to be bothering us at this rate." But Barney lay still at his wife^s back, and would not budge ; he was ready to die below, but not on deck. The women were screaming at a dreadful rate ; and she who had all along chosen me for her champion, left her children and sprung into my birth. Almost every one of us were on deck in a twinkling, ready to give what assistance w« could. The ship answered the helm nobly ; the fore- course was furled, the fore- top-sail put a-back, and the main top-sail filled ; we had preventor-braces pu.t on. The helm was then lashed hard up, the ghi|k ^ V0YA6B HOMS. 30^ laid t^ the Vind, and iHo^ed fo dtift. During thin bustle, one of the seamen had fatten overboard, but havkig caught hoW of a rope's end, held on ; and we heard his voice calling for help, although the tempest blew with great violence. The first mate made fast a rope round the body of the second mate, who was lowered ovw the side, and who then irtade fast another rope to the' body of the man, Dt'hen they were both pulled up safely on board. The seamen and first mate now went to work irt ptfttihg things to rights, and the pnmps^ were k^t going ; it was soon discovered by the mate that shtf ffad not sprung a leak, at least to any extent, but ihe sucking of V^ ^ pumps madie iSkelm ill to work. One of the passengers and I sat down on the steer- age hatch, holding on as a selEi came occasiionally over us. Death appeared now certain ; and as We looked out on the dark sea made visible by the sui^e throwing up white sheep and phospho- ric sparklesj we began to moralize on the vanity 6f human cares and human pride, and saw cle^-^ ly our own insignificance. The seamen had all left the deck to get some rest and refreshment, except the first mate and the hands at the pumps. Though the sleet fell heavily, we did not mind it ; but a heavy squall of hail come on, rattling upon 6lir faces and hands, and almost cutting them. This i pensations. Even at the worst you have benefits ; be your clothes or your bed ever so wet with salt water, you never catch cold, and soon get into a glow. I was squeezing mysdf down in my Mrth, holding on by the lashings of my trunk, as the ship was rolling heavily, when another sea struck h^^*, and my bed^fellow was again pitched out into midshipa. The mason and another, who lay iu the cc3 «^1 » 306 VOYAGE HOME. birth next me, were also pitched out among the chests and barrels in midships ; the mason was much hurt, and was for some time insensible. He was an active man, and always put his hand to every thing that was doing, rendering great assistance. He was a native of Greenock, but I forget his name. , January \2th. — At about 6 o'clock, a. m., I was lying still, holding on by the lashings of my trunk, as the ship was pitching and rolling heavily, when a sea again broke over us, producing a terrible shock, the ship trembling like an aspen-leaf, and then aU at once becoming perfectly still and motionless ; she was under water, which now came rushing down the hatches at a fearful rate. The mason having asked me if I was asleep, I answered no. *' She ia sinking,*" said he, " and is now under water."" I re- plied, ** I think she is ; and it is all over with us.'* The sensation was like that of a swimmer unable to buoy himself on the surface of the water, and swimming under it. A dismal shriek from both men and women was raised. In a second or two the ship began again to give motion ; and it was a plea- sant feeling to us when she commenced rolling and trembling as before. At 9 a. m. wind lulled con- siderably, and, being in our favour, the ship was^ laid to her course ; first mate and seamen busy put- ting things to rights. One of the seamen told me this was the sixty-seventh time he had crossed the Atlantic ; and that he had never before encountered such weather. Our ship was a frail one, and not sup- posed to be sea-worthy; nevertheless the event proved that the race is not always to the swift, nor the battle to the strong. At two p. m. saw Gape Clear. The Aberdeen doctor now paid his court to me, inviting me to take brandy with him, and complimenting tiie on the attentions I had shewn him when he was unwell, for he had been sick ever since we left Sandy Hook. He uow reciuesled of me as a particu-^ VOYAGE HOME. 807 lar favour that I would claim some of his package! M'hen we came to land, as he had a great numl^r, promising at the same time to reward me hand- somely. This I peremptorily refused to do, re- minding him that the understanding we had come to was that I was to have nothing to do with them after they were put on hoard ; I had a trunk and a cask of apples only, and was resolved to run no risk. He now said, ** Was that your cask of apples in the round-house ?" I replied that it was. Well then," said he, " it is empty." Having gone to examine, I found it was the fact. I complained to the captain, as he was the person who had taken them in charge ; but he denied his liability for any thing but what appeared on the ship's books, and we had high words about it. I now asked for the packages and letters that the other gentleman had given him for me ; but he refused to give up the letters, stating that it was illegal for me to carry them, and that I should run the risk of incurring a fine. I said I would take my chance of that; but he would not yield the point — he would put them into the post-ofHce, (by which means he would gain so much for each letter.) We had a good deal of altercation on this point, which, however, tnded in nothing. At sun-down we came up with, a brig ; she had her boats and bulwarks car- ried away, and seemed, like ourselves, in a very crippled state. January l^th. — Eight o'clock a. m. Wind in our favour ; a stift' breeze, in the South Channel ; first mate and seamen very busy putting things to rights. As we shot along the south coast of Ireland, > I stood on deck with my telescope in hand, peering occasionally through it, and admiring the moun- , tains of my native land, for, as Jonathan would say, . I calculate I am a native of the three kingdoms, . because we are twins, although feuds have sprung . up among us, and bitter ones. I have observed , If 3dd VOYAG£ HOMW. tkat family feuds a fmr nothing biit i^hat was on the 8hip'*s books. I said he ought to have told me this at the first, and I would have taken care of the article myself; but as the gentleman who had sent it was an acquaintance ofc his, and had put it in his own hands to give me, I cottsideredl him bound equally with myself to see it properly taken care of Wind began to blow fresher, and in our favour, accompanied with a thick haee^ ancfsfeet. A bark passed by us outward be finj i the captain, having hailed it, enquired as to our bearings, ) T0YA6E HOMB. 309 fend was informed that we were steering for LireK pool. The ship was now laid to her course^ About two p. M. Ailsa Craig hove in sight ; a general clean- ing took place belowy of which there was great seed ; our persons aIso> came in for a share. The luggage was then hoisted on deck, the captain enquiring of each individual how much he had. When he put the question to me, I happened to be standing beside the doctor, and answered thus : " I have only a single trunk ; I thought I had a cask of apples — ^^they were given to your charge by Mr Calder of New York, and some one has stolen them. But as your steward has put mashed Indian corn into the cask for your fowls, since the kernel is taken away you may keep the shell. I also had a bam yesterday ; it too is stolen — I am in good company.'' Her« most of the passengers proposed to open their chests to satisfy me that the accusation did not lie against them ; but this I declined, stating that my only re»p BOft for making a work about the matter was that I did not like to fail in performing what I had pro>> mised. The captain marked against every man'l name the number of packages he had, to be given in to the custom-house. A steamer now passed us^ and the captain sent word by her to the consignees about our condition. After obtaining a glimpse of the coast of my native land, being still very vBwell^ I went below and turned into my wet bed. The Aberdeen doctor again made tea, and brought it t9 my bedtiide, seating himself b side me, and speaking in a soothing tone. I did not wish to offend him by refusing to take what he offered ; but having set it down, said I would use it in a short while, at the sametime thanking him for his kindness. Just then, a ship having passed us, he went on deck to see her ; and a passenger who had got his discharge with a pension, and was returning to Paisley, having com# 310 rOVACE ROME^. in, X gave the tea, bread, and butter to him^he had been unwell for 8ome time previous. January 15th. — 8 a. m. Blowing fresh, and against us ; we had land on each side of us, having fairly entered the Clyde. I now felt better, but the Paisley weaver was worse. At about nine o'cloclc, the Commerce steam-boat came alongside, and we were lashed to her ; we now got some coals on board, and cooking commenced. The doctor brought me some potatoes, which I pared, and put on the fire^ in order to make soup. The doctor attended the eooking, while I went and dressed myself in a hurry, being eager to get a look of my native shores. He had to call me several times before I came aft to dinner, as I was so engrossed with viewing through my glass the various familiar objects ; a Mr Ander- son, joiner, now in Glasgow, and a cabin passenger, participated in our meal. Being anxious to returl on deck to view the coast as we were borne along, I did not eat much. Greenock now hove in sig^t^ and we were laid along one of the quays, being al^ lowed to go ashore at once with part of our luggage. The doctor asked me to wait till he had dressed, when he would go along with me ; and kept tril^ ling and staring at a ^ip that was about to be launched, till I got quite angry, and proposed to go without him. Mr Joseph Taylor, printer, requested me to accompany him, declaring that the doctor had no intention of going ashore, and that he had (Some- thing serious to tell me about him. He likewise mentioned that he himself was going to Glasgow, and as I could not get my trunk on shore that night, I had better join him, and he would tell me every thing as we proceeded. I consented to this arrangement. We saw the doctor again as we were procesding lo the steakTi-boat lor Glasgow ; and my companion, having a shrewd guess that he was the thief of my nil ric VOYAGE HOMEt 811 ind ing the )ck, we ard, i mc fire, I the in a hoTe». le aft ^ndef- ienge*** return along* i 81^^ sing al^ uggagj- aressed, ept trifr- it to 1^ «d to go eqn«steA )ctor had ad sotne- likewis* lasgow, ore that d tell me d to this jrocesding [oiBpanion, lief of loy pork-ham, told me to desire him to have it ready jfbr me when I returned, or be prepared for the conse* quences. I accordingly did so, giving him an Ame- rican stare ; and we passed on. When on the passage, Mr Taylor told me that the doctor had mixed mercury with the soup of which Mr Anderson and I had partaken, and that so soon as I landed in Glasgow I ought to go to bed ; adding that if I had no acquaintances there I was welcome to come with him. He also told mo that Mr Anderson had got several doses, one put into the water he was drinking, hut that he had never got an opportunity of informing that gentle- man of the fact. Indeed he himself had not slept for three nights, expecting that his victuals also would be drugged, as he conceived that the doctor, however religious and wheedling he might pretend to be, was quite capable of playing such tricks upon any person who might offend him. I thanked Mr Taylor for his kind offer of accommodation, but assured him I had relations in Glasgow, with whom I meant to take up my abode ; I agreed however to meet him next morning at a certain house in the Trongate, when we would return together to Gr^e-i nock, and consult farther about the matter. <. , i January 16th. — This morning I felt v€ry unwell ; but, having got the address of Mr Anderson's daugh- ter, I thought it my duty to call upon her. Hav- ing informed her of her father''s illness, without, however, stating what I suspected to be the cau$e, she wept bitterly ; and shortly afterwards her hus- band set off to see him. After waiting for Mr Taylor considerably beyond the hour appointed, I resolved to return to G|«e|iock myself in order that I might see to my Inggage. When I reached the ship, I learned that the doctor's effects had been seized, and a warrant issued against him as a smuggler, he having absconded. I saw i m ■^ difi VOYAGE HOMS. r " ^ Anderson, and told him how we had been drug* V ged ; he seemed very unwell. His son-in-law ar- rived soon after, and had him immediately conveyed to Glasgow. Having got my trunk ashore, I told the captain that I had ascertained the doctor to be the person who had stolen my pork-ham. He said that all that gentleman^s effects were in the custom-house, and that if the article was among them, he would send ^ it to me. Accordingly the pork-ham was found, just as had been suspected, among the doctor's luggage, and delivered next day by the first mate to my son John, who by this time had come to meet me. The •ther articles entrusted to my charge I never got. I afterwards learned that Mr Anderson lay in bed for six weeiks. So much for the Aberdeen (doctor. When I reached my own house in Edinburgh, I was so emaciated with anxiety, fatigue, and the effects of the doctor'^s potion, that my family hardly recog- nized me. I was deprived of the power of speech for nine days ; and was attended by that much respec- ted practitioner, Dr Davidson, who knew the Aber- deen doctor of old. Nevertheless I M'as once more at h^rae, and felt grateful to provioiiice for having do- livered me from the snare which cold-blooded selfish- i^ess had spread for me, and which had proved, and alas ! may yet prove, but too successful in ruining thousands of my countrymen. It is related of the great Dr Johnson that he could see nothing to ad- mire in Scotland but the road which led to England. Even so I can «ay in all sincerity, that, throughout my wanderings in America, I saw nothing to ad- inire but the blue rolling ocean which was to waft me to my native shores. -^ * t THE END. J}/,IluWi 'jU ■-l' / ,»r 5 )'" ir REVIEW, •:-y "Jfe, TAKEN PROM THE STIRLING JOURNAL AND ADVERTISER, SEPTEMBER 16, 1886. '» ♦'.;'f ,'■ OF ..." .. '. A VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. By RICHARD WESTON, Bookseller, 37- Lothian Street, Edinburgh. m^ ■r.i 11 A' The present Book, without any pretensions to the elegancies of style and manner, is both interesting and instructive. It is the production of a man of strong common sense, and an ob- servation naturally acute, but which has also been sharpened by much intercourse with the world. To our readers it may also be interesting to know, that though now following the oc- cupation of a bookseller in Edinburgh, Mr. Weslon may be considered a townsman. He was born in CambusbarroiK but spent most of his youthful days in Stirling ; being, we believe, one of the many educated by Allan's Hospital, and perhaps the very first of those educated at the expense of our Hospitals, who has ventured to appear before the public as an author. Apart from the credit he has reflected upon himself and his townsmen by this publication, it gives us pleasure to say, that he stands still more conspicuous on account of his character as a man and a citizen. Whatever he possesses he owes to bis own integrity and energy, which has enabled him success- fully to combat and surmount many difficulties which sur- rounded his early life, the pourtraying of which would per- haps furnish a still more curious and interesting book than that which he has presented to us. The great object of Mr. Weston's work is to correct the highly coloured and false views of America which too many travellers have given of that countrj'. We have from time to time been the means of giving circulation to no small portion of those enchanting descriptions of the land of liberty and equality, and therefore consider ourselves in justice bound to [ give our readers a glimpse of Mr. Weston's less flattering, but we have no doubt, more faithful picture. In perusing the work, every candid mind roust be struck with Uie sinceri^ of the author. He may have fallen into error, Ibut none will charge him with wilfully misrepresenting ; and many, we be- lieve, he has not fallen into ; fox he is evidently a man of too much discernment and penetration to commit serious mis- takes. We have one remark, however, to make, after reading his book carefully over, and that is, that his eyes seenu^ver open, and in search of whatever is calculated to place eihigra- tion to America in an unfavourable point of view, while there appears to be little anxiety evinced for laying hold of any thing on the opposite side of the question. How this happenii we think may be readily explained. Mr. Weston had, at one period of life, entertained high notions of America and Ame- ricans;^their civil rights and privileges ; but these vanished on viewing in person the realities. It strike? us that the dis- gust and jcwntempt which followed has been carried too far, and that wherever an error is committed, it is to be attributed to this cause alone. No sooner does he witness the sad reali- ties attending the delusions into which too many of his coun- trymen have fallen, than he sits down to describe them^ as a warning to others. We believe he enters upon the task in the utmost good faith and sincerity—- that he has written nothing but what he has seen — nothing but what is true. But then we suspect that, while it is evident he never omits any opportu* nity of noting down what is unfavourable, he overlooks every thing calculated to render the picture more cheering. The I scents he witnessed, we doubt not, are but too faithfully de« I picted ; yet we suspect that, had he been as anxious to discovio^ beauties as he was anxious to lay before his countrymen au the blemishes, his picture would only have embraced a widi^f field, without being less faithful. ', .'i^ Having thus fairly and candidly given our opinion regard- ing a point which must ever be considered the most impor- tant part of a narrator's character, we have merely to add, that the work possesses great merit and deep interest. In- deed, so much so, that no person can enter upon its perusal^ without being rivetted to the dramatic narrative which it coBili tains. But it is as a guide and instructor to emigrants that we consider it invaluable. If the author has not described aU that he has seen and might have seen, he has at least described nothing but what came strictly under his own observation, and that faithfully and unsparingly. The intending emigrant will find something to interest him in every page. Indeed, tl^e book is one which he should possess ; for he will find it fraught with knowledge derived from the best sources, personal ob- servationj directed by good sense. , •. » -• ~T ering, but rusing the inceritjr of non« will ly, we be- nan of too irious mis- ter reading , seei%'ever ice eikiigra- j vhile there ; old of any i lis happens had, at one I and Ame- e vanished hat the dis- ied too far, B attributed 16 sad reali- if his coiin- e iheoK as a > task in the tten nothing But then we ny opportu* ■looks every ring. The | lithfully de- | i to discover j ntrymen afl | .ed a wider j [ion regard- j lost impor- rely to add, ! iterest. In- \ its perusal^ j Ihich it conii [grants that! lescribed ail st described [rvation, and ligrant will Indeed, the id it fraught [ersonal qI}' 'i' ; ^ M -r — - *";^ CRITICISMS ON WESTON S VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Extracted from the Periodical Press. « We are free to confess, that from this Visit of Mr. Weston, we would derive more hints of a useful descrip- tion, especially to guide us till settled in our Transatlan- tic cabin, than from any work we have read on the sub- ject. * * * Readers of all descriptions, especially Scotsmen, will be exceedingly amused with the work be- fore us, containing as it does so many allusions and com- parisons of the manners and customs of the inhabitants of the new and thriving States of America and those of Auld Scotia. The price of the work brings it within the reach of almost every one ; while, at the same time, it is printed in such a manner as to contain matter that might be made to fill a modern quarto. — Caledonian Mercury^ April 1836. *^ The principal motive of Mr. Weston in pubji^l^ing this little volume, is to warn those in his class ofnUe from putting faith in the high Lothian Straet, Edinburgh, and went right slick away to America, determined to see it with his own eyes. The Syrens of liberty and equality, cheap land, canvass-backed ducks, and all the et ceteras of American prog, both for soul and body, . had been teasing Richard's imagination ; but before he would wholly listen to the voice of the charmer, and re- solve at once to set up his Ebenezer on the shores of Lake Huron, or the banks of the Hudson, he manfully deter- mined, as already said, to see with his own eyes this Land of Promise. He saw it accordingly, and liked it not. Leaving Canada for ever ; staring and even fighting his way, (for occasionally we find Richard at his punto and reverso,) through the impudence of the Yankies, he re- appears behind his counter in Edinburgh, and adds a little book of his own to his Circulating Library. And a nice little book it is. While it harmonizes with Mrs. Trollope, with Hall, Stuart, and Hamilton, it has also original views and pictures of its own, given in a very homely but graphic style ; and it is the more valuable that Mr. Weston saw many humble things which tliose more ambitious amateur travellers could not condescend to see. It is the duty of all those who are bound for America on the faith of flat- tering accounts, to let themselves see the other side of the picture in Richard's pages, ere they set sail from Annan. Dumfries and Galloway Advertiser^ March J 836. ** It is hardly necessa.y for me," says the author of this somewhat singular book, " to say. that I make no preten- sions to profundity of remark or the graces of style," and we at once agree with him. Nay we go a step farther, and say it was wholly unnecessary, since it is impossible for any one to read a single page, nay a single sentence of it, without perceiving that style is by no means the au- \X\ot'% forte. The truth is, that in this particular the book is rather a curiosity in its way. Mr. Weston, whom we take to be a bit of an original, is however evidently an honest well-meaning man, and not without a very considerable share of natural talent and % *. i.* humour. His observations, if not remarkable for profun- dity> a quality which he himself disclaims for them, are yet often sufficiently shrewd, and almost always amusing. Altogether the book, laying aside the merits, of the question it puts to issue, is an exceeding entertaining one, and certainly not the less so for the sprinkling of egotism, an egotism of the most delightfully simple and uncon. scious kind by which it is enriched, and by which we per- ceive the author entertains, as every man should do. a reasonably good opinion of himself and of his abilities, just enough to make him feel, we should suppose, quite comfortable. The object of Mr. Weston's work is to shew the fallacies on the subject of emigration to America, with which, he says, certain late writers have imposed on the British pu- blic, to the ruin of many of those individuals and families who have been induced by them to leave their native land. Leaving this point untouched, we recommend Mr. Weston's book to the notice of our readers, and promise them a good deal of entertainment from the perusal. — Scotsman^ March 1836. « We have perused this volume, and though the author does not appear to be free from prejudice, it contains some excellent anecdotes and many shrewd observations, al- though on a very limited scale, for it gives the reader no information whatever respecting that part of the popula- tion which in Europe are called the gentry,) it gives the Americans something of the character according to Mrs. Trollope's account. We may observe in passing, that we think the author wrong in endeavouring, at every oppor- tunity, to fasten blame on Mr. Stewart for his work on America. It does not follow that because that talented writer and Mrs. Trollope have given different accounts of that interesting country, arising from circumstances and their own particular views, that either wished to deceive the public ; and if individuals going to America followed any one writer out and out implicitly as a guide in the face of so much contradiction, we think they were highly deserving of the result. We do not think the author bt- fore us conveys a fair impression of the American charac- ter in general, but ^ives some valuable hints to the novice going to America, and he seems to have formed a very correct estimate of the Scotch Yankies, although many Scotchmen in America are an honour to their own country, yet we believe that a great proportion are of the quality he has described. Of the Irish in America his illustrations and observations are equally good. — Edin- burgh Observer t March 1836. -1**S1.V ible for profun- )r them, are yet s amusing, merits, of the itertaining one, ling of egotism, >le and uncon- ' which we per- in should do, a )f his abilities, suppose, quite ew the fallacies ivith which, he the British pii- lis and families leir native land, icommend Mr. rs, and promise the perusal. — lugh the author it contains some bservations, al- s the reader no of the popula- ) it gives the ording to Mrs. assing, that we It every oppor- )r his work on that talented ent accounts of imstances and ihed to deceive lerica followed guide in the By were highly the author bt* nerican charac- ; hints to the have formed a kies, although r to their own ion are of the , America his good. — Edin- ♦ 4 A Visit to the United States and Canada im 1833, with the view of Settlbg ia America ; including a Voy- age to and from New York. By Richard Weston, Bookseller. Edinburgh, 1836. 12mo, pp. 312. This work is the production of no ordinary mind. It is, in truth, as far as genius and ability go, a very clever and very interesting performance, distinguished by great versatility of talent, happy description, point, sarcasm, wit, vivacity. It is throughout quite dramatic. We have read it carefully from beginning to end, and it has captivated us excee'Miigly ; and we know of few books so well calculated, iu point of amusement and interest, to repay a perusal. Our candour in giving this opinion cannot be doubted ; particularly when we add, that, though we admire the talent which it displays, we disa- gree toto ccelo with the view it exhibits of our Trans- atlantic brethren, of their country, its institutions, and resources. Mrs Trollope, compared with him, is a sober-minded, candid, judicious writer, though not half so clever or amusing. The following is the last sentence of his book :— " I can say, in all sincerity, that throughout my wanderings in America, I saw nothing to admire but the blue rolling ocean which was to waft me to my native shores." — We have room only for the fol- lowing amusing extract. Mr Weston, having visited a school at Saratoga Springs, and having observed that the boys did not spell correctly, " asked the teacher whose dictionary he used. He replied, giving me an Americaii snake-like stare, ' Webster's ;' I said ' Johnson's was much used with us.*—* Johnson I' said he, in a triumph- ant manner, ' he could not spell ; indeed, you have no good dictionary in England.' This was too much of a good thing ; but my new acquaintance thinking, I sup- pose, that he had not mortified me enough, called up a geographical class, and, among other questions, put this .-< Which is the lake in America that covers more space than Great Briiain /"— ' Lake Superior,* said the boy, looking towards me in triumph. I smiled at the pedant's conceit; and, after hearing a few similar questions put, with the answers, I left him, thinking on Mrs Trollope." In conclusion, Mr Weston's " Visit" should be in the hands of every person who admires genius, however way- ward, or has a turn for bizarrerie.—'f From the Edinburgh Weekly Chronicle of 23rf April I836.y