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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la muthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ,1 '; q-^l AN t'llii.'.ii'''i;li'''i'' ■' ijil 1 -'j HI in ■*, ■ : , 4 AUTO-BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF SIR JOHN BARROW, BART., LATE OF THE ADMIRALTY; REFLECTIONS, OBSHRVATIONS, AND REMINISCENCES AT HOME AND ABROAD, FROM EARLY LIFE TO ADVANCED AGE. i " Ueec olim mcniiiiissc juvabit." LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1847. ^^ A* (J '. > .^ /;; /^ i\ t\ ci ^U '^ I^nduii : Printed by W. Clowes and Sonc, Stamford Street. w r 11 E F A C E. It may naturally be supposed that he who can sit down, in his eighty-third year, to write a volume of 500 pages, must have been urged on by some powerful motive to undertake such a task at so advanced a period of life ; when the faculties of mind and body may b(; expected, in a certain degree, to have become impaired. I had a double motive for setting about the task : — the first was to gratify what I knew to be the wish of my family ; the second, to gratify myself, by taking a wide range in recalling the remem- brances of long by-gone years ; quite certair that by 30 doing I should be able to realize the motto of my book, and say " haic olim meminisse juvabit." But I may also allege a third motive of gratification : that of expressing publicly the many acts of kindness avid considv^ration I have experienced from numerous friends, especially from those to whose patronage I am indebted for the good fortune that has attended me through life. To me, indeed, the labour of putting together the present volume has proved rather a delightful exercise, 12 iv PREFACE, by affording the opportunity of recalling to my memory the youthful companions of early days, and the friends of maturer age, together with the many agreeable associations that crowd into such recol- lections. If an excuse were wanting for this volume, it might be suggested that, as the lives of so many excellent characters have passed under my review^ it ^'s but reasonable that I should take a revieio cf my own, though less distinguished ; and I promise it shall be a true and a faithful one. Long as my life has been spared, it has passed away in a state of what I may call uninterrupted health — in the full enjoyment of activity of body, and sanity of mind — mens sana in corpore sano ; and, by the mercy of Providence, I have never had occasion to call in the aid of the doctor but once, and he was a Chinese, practising in the city of Tinj-hae, in the island of CIm-san. A great portion of the first forty years of my life was spent in rambling among the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland, or angling for trout in the mountain-streams ; in sea-voyages, or in pedestrian exercises in foreign countries : the next forty years mostly at Charing-Cross, in close confinement for the greater part of the day, and in such sedentary exercise of the mind, as is required of a Secretary of the Admiralty; whose talent may, perhaps, be esti- mated by some, who know little about it, to lie more in the hand than the head. I may lay claim, how- ever, to some small portion of mental exercise, in PREFACE. 5 to my days, and the many ich rccol- is volume, I so many review, it 'cw cf my ise it shall isscd away I health— :l sanity of* the mercy call in the a Chinese, island of y years of mountains igling for ges, or in next forty )nfinement sedentary jcretary of «, be esti- lie more aim, how- ercise, in addition to, and in the midst of, the routine drudgery of office, by the production of six quarto volumes, four octavos, three or four smaller ones, about a dozen arti- cles in the ' Encyclopaedia liritannica,' and close upon two hundred articles in the ' Quarterly lleview ;' which may, perhaps, be considered as counting for something in the way of literary labour. These are the kind of mental exercises, conjointly with personal exertions, that have tended to keep up a flow of health and of animal spirits much beyond the usual period of human existence ; and which have encouraged me, even at this late hour of the day, to make trial of my strength in the same beaten track I have trod over for so many years ; being not a little induced, as I have before hinted, by a wish to put on record the expression of a feeling of gratitude towards my benefactors; to state briefly the acts or o])inions of those under whom and with whom I have served; and moreover, though it may occasionally wear the appearance of vanity, to record the opinions also, ill their own words, that they may have enter- tained of me. No such feeling as vanity, however, can with justice be laid to my charge. I am but too con- scious that, in my literary labours — the sources of my anuiscment — there will be found a great defect both in point of style and correctness of language. The hasty composition of official letters and documents has, I am free to confess, been followed up by a too careless habit of skimming over even graver subjects currente VI PJ{KFACE. calamo. This is a weak excuse, but I liave no other to plead, with regard to the Ibllovviiig jKiges, in chiini- iug the indulgence of the t/entle reader. The volume contains — 1. Reminiscences of early life, entirely from memory. 2. Notices and observations on China and the Chinese, from Pekin to Canton. 3. Notices and observations on the Colonists, the Kaffirs, the Hottentots, and Rosjesmans of Southern Africa, from personal intercourse; and on tlic Natural History of 8. Africa. 4. Brief notices of thirteen dift'crent Administra- tions, Whig and Tory, of the Navy. 5. Retirement from public life, and employment of leisure time. 6. The origin and successful establishment of the ' Quarterly Review.' I Note. — The small portrait is taken from one of a larg-or size engraved by Messrs. Graves, from tiie original painted by IMr. Lucas ; and I beg to express my thanks to IMr. Lucas, and also to Messrs. Graves, for their readiness in atlbrding tl»e acconunodotion of placing it as a frontispiece to this volume. f li no otlicr , ill claiui- -fp ircly from n and the C N T E N T 8. lonists, the jesnians of iitorcourse ; Africa, ^(hninistra- niploynient inent of the (:iiaptj<:r i. BIXTION PAGE I. — Biitli and Pjirciitago, Education, and Employment chiefly at liome ...... II. — Residence and Employment in Liverpool J II. — A Voyage to the Greenland Wliale Fisliery 1 12 1(5 IV. — Death of my Master of Town Bank School, and a few Uemarks thereon — Sketch of the History of his ve- nerable Father, the Minister of Seathwaite Chapel . 2H ' a larg^er size iiited by Mr. IS, and also to ccoaimodutioii ( IIAPTEll II. EMBASSY TO CHINA. J.— Tiie Earl of Macartney, Ambassador ; Sir George Staunton, Bart., Secretary and IMiuister Plenipo- tentiary — Preparation and Departure — Receive an Appointment ....... 44 II. — Arrive at the Continent of China — Di-sembark at the Moutii of the River Pei-ho — Navigation of that River — Appearance of the Country and the Peoi)le 54 III. — Pei-ho to Tien-Sing, thence to Tongchoo, the Port of I'ckin — Aspect of the Country . . .66 Vllt CONTKNTS. KKOTION l'A<:i: IV. — From 'I'onj^-clioo, (lirouL-li IVkiii— From I'ckiii fo (Ic'liol ill 'I'iirtmy — I'ait of llic Kmhassy to the I'alaci' of Viu'ii-iiiiii-yiicii, ami part rciiiaiii in IIk- ("apilal— ()l)scrviilioiis on and i)c^(ii|tlions of all tlu'.st! I'lat't's— Nolict's of llio Coiiiifry, and of this cc'lt'biati'd Navigation ..... <i!l V^— From IVkiii by tin; (J rand Canal to Canton; Tli(( Second Kmhassy nndt-r l^onl Amlicrst — licmaiks on il — on till! Jianyiiayt' of Ciiina . . . ^^^^ CIIAITKR III. SOUTllKllN ArUICA-CAI'K OI' (JOOD UOIM;. I. — Tlio Karl of Macartney rioveriior of Cape of Cood Hope — Tiie Voyage tliili er — My appointinont as I'rivate Secretary . . . . . .I'M II. — Expedition to (iraatl" Keynet — the Karroo or Great Desert— Plants and Animals met with . . Ill "a ' —Expedition to Zunre- Veldt and KaiHr-Land — l)e- seription of the People, and Oecnrrences . . l.'iS IV. — Snen\vl)(;rg and Orang-e liiver, throngh the Country of the Hosjesmaiis — Description of the Country and J*e()})le . . . . . . . .17.1 V. — Journey from (!raalf Key net by the Sea-Coast to the Cape — Some Accoimt of the Forests and Timber along this line of the Sea-Coast . . . . lyii VI. — Journey info tlie Country of the Namaaquas— Re- marks on the Country and Inhabitants . . 201 VII. — Cape Poiiiiisula — Departure of Lord Macartney — (ieneral Francis Dui;das— Sir George Young — JMilitary Mission to the Eastward^ — and State of the Colony 211 VIII. — Two (iovernors, one Dutch and one English — Cape evacuateil ....... 23;! IV. CONTENTS, ix i'A(;k J'fkiii lo ssy to flic iiii ill the oils of all ml of this lion; Tii(> Iciiiurks on (i!) hs iiori:. ' of Ciood lltlllOIlt iis ) or Great .iiii(U-l)o- i:m 141 K' Country oniitry and . i7;i 'oast to tho ii(i Tiiiib(!r . 19;) quas— Re- . 1^01 acartney — Yoniig' — 5tat(! of the . 211 racTiuN I.- i*A(;i-: 2.'>() 2->I 27fi 291 lisli — Cape . 2lVo VAIAVTIM \V. T II K A 1) M 1 II A L T Y.* Introductory Note ...... Henry Visconiit Melville, First Lord. (Ills activity ill irstoriii}r llu; fleet ; his pojmlaiity ; and his licrseenlioij) ... . . . Cajit. .lames (JainbitM", I'iist Naval Lord. William JMarsden, First Secretary. Mr. IJaiiow a])i)oiiit<'d Second Secretary. Lord Harluun (Sir C. IMiddleton), First Lord. (His good fortune in beiiijj^ chief wlieii the victory of 'i'ralalgar took place) ..... Capt. James (jiainbier, First Naval Lord. "William Marsden, First Secretary. Kight Hon. Charles Crey. (Succeeded by tiie Uiglit Hon. Thomas Grenville) . . . . Three Naval Lords ; Markhani, Sir Charles Pole, and Sir II. Neale (jy., which first? Marsden, First Secretary. (I was not in this IJuard.) The Earl of JMnlgrave. (Two great expeditions — the Dardaiiells and the ScheMt) Adm. James Candjier, First Naval Lord. John AVilson Croker, Esq., First Secretary, to snccced Mr. "Wellesley Pole. The lliglit Hon. Charles Yorke. (A high and firm character, and a cajiacions mind) Sir Richard Lickcrton, First Naval Lord. Joiin Wilson Croker, First Secretary. • To attempt a description of the eveuts and transactions that occurred in the course of forty years, and whicli are recorded in the Admiralty, would require another voltnne even to On little more than to enumerate them, nrieily aa they are touched upon in tlie present volume, they occupy more than 2i)0 pages. In the (\iiiteiits, therefore, it was deemed siifiicient to name the parties in each of the thirteen Adniiuistrulions on whom the responsibility is supi)osed cUefly to rest. IV.— 2J)8 308 CONTENTS. SECTION FACE VI. — Robert Lord Viscount Melville. (Renewed tiie prac- tice of visitations to the dockyards ; war and peace witli America ; set forward the Arctic Voyages) 323 Adm. G. Johnstone liope, First Naval Lord. Joiin Wilson Croker, First Secretary. VII. — His Royal Iliglincss tlie Duke of Clarence, the Lord High Admiral. (His groat activity, and kind disposition ; gave great satisfaction to all con- nected with tlie Navy) ..... 336 Right IIoi.. Sir Geo. Cockburn, First Councillor. Rt. Hon. Jolia Wilson Croker, First Secretary. VIII. — Robert Viscount Melville — Second Administration. (First man-of-war steam vessel built by his Lord- ship's Board) ...... 386 Rt, Hon. Sir G. Cockburn, First Naval Lord. Rt. Hon. John Wilson Croker, First Secretary. IX. — Rt. Hon. Sir James Graham, Bart. (Undertook and completed a revision of tlie whole system of the Civil Service of the Naval Administration) . 404 Adm. Sir Thomas Hardy, First Naval Lord. Tlie Hon, George Elliot, First Seci'etary. X. — The Earl of Auckland. (Was twice First Lcrd, for very short periods, and little occurred for notice) 440 Sir William Farker, First Naval Lord. The Hon. George Elliot, First Secretary. XI. — Tlie Earl de Grey. (In office for a short period ; then Lord Auckland) ..... 444 Sir Charles Rowley, First Naval Lord. George Dawson, First Secretary. XII. — The Earl of Minto. (An active, intelligent, and in- genious First Lord) ..... 450 Adm. Sir Ciias. Adam, First Naval Lord. Charles Wood (now Rt. Hon. C. Wood), First Secretary. CONTENTS. rAOE )rac- aiid rctic . 323 Lord kind con- . 336 illor. y- •ation. Lord- . 386 I. »k and of the ) . 404 SECTION XIIL- xi PAGE -The Earl of Haddington. (An amiable and attentive First Lord, and not wanting in talent) . . 459 Rt. Hon. Sir George Cockburn, First Naval Lord. Sir Sidney Herbert, First Secretary ; and had the good fortune to obtain Sir George Cockburn for his First Naval Lord. CHAPTER V. SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. I.— Ret:-ment from Public Life — Various Compli- mentary Letters on the Occasion— Employment of Time after a Busy Life 469 II.— The Quarterly Ileview— The Origin and Design of the Quarterly Review— The Projectors and Early Con- tributors— Its extraordinary Success . . .492 rd, for notice) 440 period ; . 444 and in- 450 l^'l ), First -\i A E, AN AUTO-BIOfxRAPHICAL MEMOIR, SjC, 8fc. CHAPTER I. Section I. Education and Miscellaneous Emjdoymcnt, chiefly at Home. In the extreme northern part of North Lancashire is the market-town of Ulverstone, and not far from it the obscure village of Dragleybeck, in which a small ieottage gave me birth on the 19th June, 1764; being the only child of Roger and Mary Barrow. The said cottage had been in my mother's family nearly two hundred years, and had descended to her aunt, who lived in it to the age of eighty, and in it my mother died at the advanced age of ninety. To the cottage were attached three or four small ^elds, sufficient for the keep of as many cows, which Bipplied our family with milk and butter, besides reserving a portion of land for a crop of oats. There was also a paddock behind the cottage, called the hemp- Iftnd, expressive of the use to which it had at one time ^en applied, but now converted to the cultivation of \% II, I BIRTH. [Chap. 1. potatoes, peas, beans, and othei* culinary vegetables; which, with the grain, fell to the labour of my father, who, with several brothers, the sons of an extensive farmer, was brought up to that business in the neigh- bourhood of the Lakes ; and three or four of the sons held large farms under the Devonshire family — Caven- dish and Burlington. At the bottom of the hemp-land runs the beck or brook, a clear stream that gives the name to the village, and abounds with trout. Contiguous to the cottage was also a small flower- garden, which, in due time, fell to my share ; that is, while yet a young boy I had full charge of keeping up a supply of the ordinary flowers of the season. I did more ; I planted a number of trees of different kinds, which grew well, but, long after I left home, I under- stood that many of them had been destroyed by the turning of a road. One of them, however, it appears, has survived, which must be now from seventy to seventy-five years old *, and the mention of it kindles in my bosom a spark of gratitude, which an imputation of vanity even will not allow me to suppress. The follow- ing extract of a letter, received in 1844, from an aged female cousin, will tell the incident better than I can. My correspondent says, — " Mr. Gilpin" (who is an able and accomplished gentleman residing in Ulverstone) "called to say he was come to take a glass of wine with us, to drink your health in honour ; for that day it was your eightieth birthday, and he was sure there was not one gentleman to be found so clever and active as yourself; he was sure you were like one of fifty ; he told us that he and Mr. Braddyll were going to put a colour or flag into the rovnn-tree that you planted when a boy, which [Chap. 1. Skct. I.] ULVERSTONK. egetables ; my father, extensive the neigh- •f the sons f — Caven- e beck or ;he village, all flower- e; that is, keeping up on. I did •ent kinds, 3, I under- fed by the it appears, seventy to kindles in putation of ?he follow- 11 an aged lan I can. is an able Iverstone) ne with us, ; was your IS not one yourself; )ld us that mv or flag )oy, which is a fine tree full of red berries, and hoped we would go down to see it. We went down to see it ; and I assure you, sir, they had put a dashing flag brought from the Priory. I asked the girls at the cottage if one of them was married. She said — No ; Mr. Braddyll and Dr. Gilpin had put it up, it being Sir John Barrow's birth- day, and had treated them all, that they might drink your health. That evening Mr. Gilpin had a party of gentlemen to supper, in honour. There is a new wall round the cottage, but the tree was not moved from its place, and the colour hung gracefully from it. There was one lady was glad that she had lived to see it, — that was Mrs. Harrison ; she was Miss Betsy Briggs, sister to your old friend. The flag was brought by Mr. Sunderland from the capture of Acre. I am sure that all in Ulverstone ii.Uf^t feel the greatest respect for you, for the lane to the cottage was, during the day, the ge- neral walk to look at the flag, and to wish health and long life to Sir John Barrow." I was sensibly affected M'ith this mar^. of kindly feeling towards one who, from circumstances, had not visited his native place for more than fifty years. All my old schoolfelloMS had long ago departed this life. My little property has equally, long since, been disposed of. The younger and surviving branches of the family never knew me, and all that keeps up the recollection of the townspeople are a few charities, fwith which my name, and those of my family here, are associated ; and of which there is one in particular I have reason to be proud of —the establishment of a Sunday-school. Just after leaving school, in a conver- sation with a young friend, we lamented that there ^ was no such thing as a Sunday-school, for the benefit b2 '.1.1 '■^ ULVERSTONE. [Chap. I. of poor children, and I suggested that we should pro- pose one — but how? There was no newspaper — not even a printing-press. We, however, drew up a plan, and I undertook to stick it up on the market-cross, the night before market-day. We saw that it excited great attention ; it was talked of; a person offered himself to undertake it; and it succeeded so well, that to the Ulverstone Sunday-school I and some of my family are at this time annual subscribers. My native town of Ulverstone is now, and has long been, in a flourishing state. Situated on the shore of Morecambe Bay, with which it comnmnicates by a canal, the trade in copper aid iron ores, and various products of the neighbouring hills, is very considerable. Its proximity to the waters of Windermere, Coniston, and others of Cumberland and Westmoreland, has made it the key, or head-quarters, to those highly pic- turesque lakes. It can now boast of more than one public library, of several printing-presses, of literary and religious societies, and of a good grammar-school, besides others which are called National Schools. It has a daily mail-coach over the sands to Lancaster, and another three times a-week to Whitehaven. It is lighted with gas, has an abundant supply of good spring-water, and a clear stream has been conducted through the town. Had Mr. West, an intelligent Ca- tholic priest, who resided here, and wrote the history of Furness, been now alive, he might with justice have styled Ulverstone, as he did in that work, " the London of Furness." He might also have spoken with great truth of the salubrity of the air and the healthiness and longevity of its inhabitants : my good mother and her aunt v/ere striking examples of it. [Chap. I. iouid pro- iper — not ip a plan, •ket-cross, it excited >n offered well, that ne of my I has long J shore of latos by a nd various nsiderable. Coniston, eland, has highly pic- ! than one of literary iiar-school, chools. It caster, and en. It is y of good conducted iUigent Ca- the history ustice have the London with great thiness and ler and her I Sect. I.] EDUCATION. I cannot forego the opportunity now afforded me to say a word in favour of my native place, where my earliest, and I believe my happiest, days were passed ; and, having briefly stated what I have learned rfroni others, I proceed to the subject of my Memoir. The only scholastic education I received was at the fTown Bank grammar-school, under the Ilev. William Tyson Walker, curate of the parish church, and an ex- cellent classical scholar, educated at Trinity College, Dublin. Before this the Town Bank school had fallen into the hands of an old gouty gentleman, o^'the name of Ferdinand (usually called Fardy by the boys) Hodgson, whose wife kept a sort of stati&ner's and bookselle. s shop. Ilis knowledge of Latin extended little beyond the Syntaxl% As in prcesenti, and Propria quw maribu.% &c.; any further progress could only be had by a removal to the distance of sixteen miles, to the Free Grammar-school at liawkshcad, founded in L584. Fardy Hodgson was particularly kind to me; and, being pleased one day at the manner in which I had pfrformed my tssk, he took me by the hand into his shop, and spreading on the counter a great number of books for young people, he desired me to look at them and choose any one I pleased, as a present. I pitched upon a small History of the Bible, with wood-cuts, which so pleased the old man, that he foretold to my pa- rents that I should prove a treasure to them. Trifling tis this was, it produced its effect, and has on many iDccasions recurred to my memory. Poor Fardy having given up the school, some of the leading persons of Ulverstone, desirous of affording to their chihlren a better education than had hitherto been available, came to an agreement, in order to make the 6 TOWN BANK SCHOOL. [Chap. I. management of the Town Bank school more worth Mr. Walker's while, to place it on a better footing, and to increase the terms of the schooling. He most readily agreed to what was proposed ; and among the many boys, transferred to the care of Mr, Walker, I had the good fortune to be one — was entered when in my eighth year, continued under his instruction until my thirteenth, when I had advanced to the head of the school ; having read Homer, and Xenophon's Ana- bas's, Livy, Horace, Virgil, &c. Walker was no mean poet, and excelled in the recitation of verse or prose. He wrote a pleasing descriptive poem in praise of Ire- land, and of Trinity College in particular. I recollect it opened with — " Generous and brave, lerno, are thy sons." His great delight was to instruct the upper boys to repeat passages from Homer and Virgil, and also from the best English poets. I gained some smattering of reputation for my knowledge of Shakspeare, and for the manner in which I could repeat many of the finest passages in his tragedies, and which I retained to a late period of life — some of them even till now — for this tact I am solely indebted to the instruction and encou- ragement of Mr. Walker. Annexed to the Town Bank grammar-school was a separate room for those who were desirous of beiii^ instructed in arithmetic and mathematics, taught by an old gentleman, who, being a sort of perambulating pre- ceptor, used to pay his annual visit of about three months. From him I received instruction in those branches of mathematics, which are most easily attained under a master, such as algebra, fluxions, conic sec- tions — Euclid needed no master ; and I very soon 1 [Chap. 1. 3re worth r tooting, He most iniong the Walker, 1 d when in ition until e head of hon's Ana- is no mean e or prose, aise of Ire- I recollect er boys to d also from attering of re, and for f the finest ed to a latf w — for this and encou- ?,hool was a IS of beiii^ tuight by ail uUiting pre- about three on in those sily attained , conic sec- ; very soon Sect. I.] LEAVE SCHOOL. had an opportunity of acquiring the practical applica- tion of many of the theorems and problems to the common purposes of life. I may here mention one or two circumstances that occurred about the time and shortly after I left school, and which, trivial as they may appear, exerted a con- siderable influence on the future events of my life. Things of common occurrence are indeed f jquently the precursors of important consequences, though not so regarded at the time. Just as I was about to leave the school, a gentleman, who had the manage- ment of Colonel Braddyll's estates in Yorkshire, Mr. Cottam, well known in that county, called on the master of Town Bank to know if he could recommend two of the youths, best-informed in arithmetic and geo- metrical calculations, to assist him in taking an accu- rate and complete survey of the Colonel's very extensive estate of Conished Priory, near Ulverstone. He im- mediately named Zaccheus Walker, his nephew, and myself. We were accordingly sent for, and received explanations of v.hat would be required of us ; but as neither of us felt qualified to go alone, we consented on the understanding that all should be done entirely under his assistance and supervision. We remained at the Priory, as well as I now can recollect, about two months, in which time we com- pleted the survey, to the satisfaction, as I was after- wards informed, of Colonel Braddyll ; and, I may add, ior my own part, to my incalculable benefit derived jrom witnessing the practised methods of conducting a survey of the various descriptions of surface — for it contained all — level, hilly, woodland, and water ; and it was not the less useful to me, from the practical 'I f • 8 KMPI.OYMKNT AT CONISIIED PUIOKY. [Chap. 1. kiiovvlodge acquired of the tlieodolite, and of the several iiiathematieal instruments in the possession of Mr. Cottanj. In fact, during our sojourn at the Priory, I so fiir availed myself of tlie several a|)j)lications ot these in- struments, that, on arriving in Loiulon, some years afterwards, 1 extended my knowledge of them, so as to draw up and publish a small treatise, to explain the practical use of a case of mathematical instrunuMits, being my first introduction to the press, for which I obtained twenty })ouiuls; and was not a little delighted to send my first fruits to my mother. Another circumstance occurred, on leaving school, apparently of little importance, to which, notwith- staiuling, I nuist, to a certain extent, trace back my future fortunate progress in life, as will hereafter be shown. In the meantime, the simple fact will bo enough for me to notice. Five or six of the upper boys agreed to subscribe for the | arpose of purchasinf; a celestial globe, and also a map of the heavens, which were lodged in the mathenuitical apartment of Town Bank school, to be made use of jointly or se})arately, as should be decided on. Our cottage at Drag'ovbeck Avas distant a mile or more, yet such was my eagerness of acquiring a practical knowledge of the globe and tlu map, that 1 never omitted a star-light night, without attending to the favourite })ursuit of determining cer- tain constellations, and their j)rincipal tars, for one, two, or three hours, according as they continued above the horizon. It was a pleasure then, and a profit there- after. About this time, the son of a farmer on the Priory estate, a midshipman in the navy, made his aj)pearanco [Chap. I. |b;cT. I.] SELF-EDUCATION. 9 the several [)n of Mr. ry, I so iiir »t those iii- jome years m, so as to L'xphuii tlio iistruiiKMits, or whieh I e delighted iiifj; school, 1, notwith- e hack my ereafter bo act will Ito f the upper purchasing veus, which lit of Town parately, as )ra^ravbeck y eagerness ohe and tin ;ht, without mining ccr- rs, for one, luied above profit there- I the Priory ap})earancc at home, with the loss of an arm, sustained in action with the enemy ; a remarkably fine full-grown young man. I lis object now was the church ; but he was soon ipprized that, being thus mutilated, he was disqualified from officiatinf,^ in some of the duties of a parish j)ri''st, • $nd could not probably succeed in obtaining ordma- idon. He persisted, however, in pursuing his studies to qualify himself for the situation at least of private tutor. Having nmch communication with him, as a near neighbour, and he being, moreover, a most agreeable and intelligent young man, we became great friends, and goon discovered we could be of mutual assistance to each other. I found him an a})t scholar, and was of some use in brushing up his mathematics, and more so his classics, while he informed me of the mysteries of navigation, and of a man-of war. Even what 1 then teamed might be useful, should it be my lot to betake myself to a seafaring life, and so I considered it ; while my friend, some time afterwards, had interest enough to procure the patronage of the Hornby family of Win- wick, became tutor to the children, and finally, by his talents, succeeded, through the Derby interest, in ob- taining curate's orders; and in that capacity, I believe, continued to serve in Winwick Church till his death. I have no doubt that the present Admiral Hornby was a pupil of the Reverend Giles Chippindale. For the twelvemonth, or thereabouts, that I remained at home, the employment of my time was directed to- wards something that was useful or curious. Of the litter, I had fallen in with an account of Benjamin Fraidiiin's electrical kite ; and a kite being a very common object with schoolboys, and a string steeped in salt-water, with a glass handle to it, not difficult to be h^id, I speedily 1.1 10 A 81N0ULAU CllAKACTKU. [Chai'. I flew my kite, ixnd obtaiiiod abundance of sparks. An old woman, curious to see what 1 was about, it was too tempting an oj)portunity not t» give her a .shoc^', which so .Vightened lier, that she spread abroad a rej)()rt in tin vi'iage that 1 was no better than 1 shouhi be ; tor that I was drawing down lire from heaven. The alarm ran through the village, and my poor mother entreated me to lay aside my kite. My object was chiefly that of extending the sin.ill portion of mathematics, which the occasional master of Town Bank had been able to give me ; but with- out any one to apply to for assistance, when I louiid myself at a loss, which frequently happened. I wa? sometimes disposed to shut my book ; but, at this early period of life, I had an iidiorent and inveterate hatred of idleness; and that feeling has continued to haunt me until the advanced stage of human existence, at whidi I am now writing. In the midst of this dilemma I w.b informed that there lived, in the hills, an old farnioi, of the name of Gibson, who went among his neigh- bours by the aj)pellation of the irise-inan, on accoim; of his profound knowledge on almost every subject: that he had the re})utation of being a thorough matiu- matician ; that he made his own almanac, and couhi calculate eclipses — in short, like the village school- master — " Lands lie couM measure, terms and tides presage, And e'en tlie story ran that he could gage." I determined to see this rustic wonder, and for tliai purpose walked some eight or nine miles into the hilK country, and was so nuich gratifled with the inforniii- tion he gave me, on certain points that had floundeni: me ; and with such good will, urbanity, and patieiu [('IIAI'. *CT. i.] A SINGULAR CIIAUACTEK. u iparks. All t, it was too shocks wliicli 'eport in tin be ; tor that The alarm er en treated ig the small onal master e ; l)ut vvitli- len I fouiiil ined. 1 wa.^ at this early x-rate liatrcd 0(1 to haunt nee, at wlutli lemma I \va> old thriucr, g his nei^li- , ou aceouii! /ery subject; ■ough matlu' e, and couli; llage sehool- presage, 0." and for thai into the hilly the inforiiia- ad flounders; and patient' withal, did he hmnse me, (as Doetor Wollaston would have said,) that I repeated my visit three or four times ; and should have gone, at least once lore, be- fore quitting home, had I not felt somewhat ashamed to trouble hiui on that occasion, which was the follow- ing. I had puzzled myself for a couple of days and nights ifitli a problem in Simson's Conic Sections, which, without consulting any one, 1 found myself so much perplexed and confused, as to despair of ever being able to master : the failure preyed on my mind. On a future night I tried once more, and, alter a vain attem])t, fell into a disturbed sleep, in the course of which I became busily at work with my problem, or more correctly, perhaps, I dreamed to be so ; and the result was, a true and satisfactory solution. In the BM)rning, in full recollection of my dream, I took up my slate and pencil, and easily sketched out the solu- tion, On mentioning the circumstance, in after years, to Doctor Young, he told me it was by no means an uousual case, and that many instances are on record of intricate points being unravelled in drecms, or dis- turbed sleep. I have not yet finished with Mr. Gibson. From my acquaintance with him resulted an epoch in the pro- gress of my life, which will be noticed hereafter in its roper place. :t.i 12 EMPLOYMENT IN LIVERPOOL. [Chap. I. Section II. Bcsidence and Emplot/mcnt in Liverjmol. I NOW began seriously to reflect on my situation as far as regarded myself, but much more so with reference to my good parents, particularly as the views I took, regarding the future employment of my life, did not exactly correspond with theirs. My father, having been brought up among the Cumberland farmers of the mountains, had imbibed their notions respecting the clergy, whom they venerated so highly, as to persuade themselves that salvation M'as most likely to be secured to the family, by the introduction of one of the sons into the Church. No wonder, therefore, he should he anxious to educate me for the clerical })rofessioii. 1 had a serious objection to enter into holy orders ; I did not conceive that I was calculated for that sacred pro- fession ; besides, without a college education, there was no chance of my being jrdained, and I jn'cssed this point (in my father's attention. A friend, however, he said, had told him that, at a small expense, he could send me, as a servitor, or sizar, to one of the universities, My parents and myself were most regular attendants at church ; and though of a serious turn of mind, as I was by nature and disposition, I could not brins myself to think, that I ever should be reconciled to the clerical office, and therefore was desirous rather, discouraging as the prospect seemed, to take my chance a little longer, in the hope that something might turn u}), to alford me employment more suitable to my feelings. % [ClIAP. I. Sect. II.] EMPLOYMENT IN LIVERPOOL, 13 •pool. lation as far :h reference iews I took, life, did not having been lers of the ;pecting the to persuade ) be seeurid of the sons e should he ofessioii. 1 •ders; I did sacred pro- 1, there was [HTSsed this however, lie he could universities, [• attendants of mind, as not briiiu 'conciled to ■ous rather, I my chance might turn d)le to niv About this time, when I had just passed my four- teenth year, a lady from Liverpool called one day at the cottage, when I happened to be at home, and said, without ceremony, that she came from a friend of ours, and that her visit was to me ; that her husband's name was Walker, the proprietor of a considerable iron- foundry in Liverpool; and that in the course of her visit to the north, he had wished her to look out for an active and intelligent youth, to superintend the work- men aiid keep the accounts of the factory, under the guidance and instruction of one who, from age and infirmity, could not long continue his employment; that the youth would live in the family ; that they had one son of about ten years of age, who, being of a weakly habit, it was their object to give him instruction at home, at least for some time to come. " Now," sh j said, "from the character I have heard of you atUlver- stone, and from age and appearance (perhaps a little too young), I think you would answer our purpose ; and I may say, I am prepossessed in your favour; and if you think that such an appointment v/oiild suit you, I will write to my husband to mention you to him." This flattering conversation could not fail to capti- vate at once a youth of fourteen; and having no relish for an inactive life, seeing no prospect of immediate employment, and anxious to relieve my parents from the increasing expense of maintaining me at home, I shanked Mrs. Walker, and said I should most grate- fully accejjt an ofler so kindly made, should Mr. Walker be i f the same opinion with herself; The offer was made, on the lady's reaching home, and I lost no time 14 EMPLOYMENT IN LIVERPOOL. [Chap. I. Smct. in proceeding to Liverpool and joining my new friends and new abode in St. Thomas's Buildings. The establishment of the iron-foundry was not very extensive, but it supplied labour to a considerable num- ber and variety of workmen — foremen, moulders, car- penters, blacksmiths, and model-makers. There was also machinery for boring cannon, and other purposes. My duty was to overlook the workmen, to keep an his La- account of the labour performed and to enter it in the down. books, to pay the weekly wages, to make the entries of all the metals received and of the manufactured goods delivered. I signed articles binding myself to serve thiee years; my salary was just enough to keep me handsomely in clothing and a little pocket-money. Not long after my arrival, among the visitors of tlie maimfactory was an Italian, from Naples, of the name of Leonardi, whose business in Liverpool, he told me, was to ascend in a balloon, the first he believed that had been sent up in England — at least, with any poi- son in it ; and as his was intended to be inflated with inflammable gas, he wished to know if he could be su))- plied with iron filings to produce it. We were just now boring up old guns for the merchants, war being declared against France and Spain, and there were under plenty of borings to spare. This new species of flight conduc into the air took hold of my fancy ; the borings wen dispose supplied, and, with the permission (not readily granted) offered of Mr. AValker, I prevailed on Leonardi to let mc me, aiu accompany him, to which he made no objection, ]m> same f vided the balloon would rise with both, which was a best to point he couid not say : however, when the day of trial Duri came, the balloon was found wanting 5 it rose tardily tunity c dons ac with belo\ I Wall and J had i last V his bu son, a appea certaii the Ic and b( seriouj It I she, ance, whetl the ac and twelv 111 le [Chap. I. JiicT. II.l MRS. SIDDONS. 15 lew friends IS not very rable nuni- iilders, car- There was ;r purposes. ;o keep an ter it in the e entries of turcd goods )lf to serve to keep me noney. sitors of tho )f the nanif he told nic, elicved that ith any per- inflated with ould be su})- e were just ;s, war being there were nes of flight )orings wen ily granted) i to let nic )jection, pro- which was a 2 day of trial rose tardih' with Leonardi alone, and I vyas to be content to remain below. I passed two years very comfortably, Mr. and Mrs. Walker being excellent people, and very kind to me ; and I found the little son very tractable and docile, and had it in my power to be of some use to him. In the last year of my servitude, Mr. Walker expresF 1 to me his great satisfaction, and said, as his health was breaking down, and would disable him soon from looking after his business, he was thinking of transferring it to his son, and that, if I agreed to continue, my name would appear in the concern, and I should be entitled to a certain share in the profits To this I could not have the least objection. But, almost immediately after, and before the expiration of my time, he caught a very serious ilhicss, which carried him off in a few days. It now became a question with the widow, whether she, in conjunction with her son, and with my assist- ance, should undertake to carry on the business, or whether she should dispose of the whole concern. By the advice of her friends the latter plan was adopted, and probably she was well advised ; for a youth of twelve and of a sickly habit, and myself also a youth under seventeen, might not be deemed competent to conduct a concern of that magnitude. It was therefore disposed of to a Liverpool ironmonger, who immediately offered me terms to continue ; but being a stranger to me, and not likely that I should be considered in the same friendly light as with the Walkers, I thought it best to decline his offer. During my residence in Liverpool, I had an oppor- tunity of seeing, what very few have witnessed, Mrs. Sid- dons acting a romping character in a farce (Charlotte, Ifi GREENLAND. [Chap, I think, the name is), the 'Apprentice.' The com pany had just arrived under her husband, Mr. Siddoii; and the bill of fare had been distributed. The lady in tended for the character failed to make her appear ance, and Mrs. Siddons volunteered to take it, afh having performed her part in a tragedy. Having nevt yet heard of Mrs. Siddons, she being, I believe, k just come out, I paid no attention to her acting. lit reputation, however, was speedily estaliished ; an having mentioned the incident in London, it w? doubted, and thought to have been a mistake. As I h the pleasure of meeting Mrs. Siddons occasionally, niai; years after, I once took the liberty of asking her tl question, observing to her, that my account of it k been doubted, and that some othe • had been mistakt for her. She replied, that she was then very yoiii. and was often put into characters neither suitable ii agreeable to her. Skction III. A VoycKjo to the (xveenlmid Whale Fishery. I WAS now released from all engagements, and had consider very seriously what line of life I should able to undertake, and as would most likely p: cure for me the means of an independent subs once. I could no longer bear the idea of bei burdensome to my parents ; besides, a life S})ciit idleness and inactivity would be, to me, a lilt misery. While pondering over various })lans of ) cee( We tion fron Liv( fisiic Gre( once O Pottf Mrs. that, Icisui seas, ofwli maiH shonji raent, conso offer age we en We fortui h»v occun tUbi nilncr the ](■ and w tbese ' [Chap, i, SiKCT. III.J VOYAGE TO GREEXLAND. 17 The com Mr. Siddoii! The lady in her appear take it, aftt tiaving neve believe, l)t acting. lit Wished -, ai! iidoii, it \v< .ke. As I ha sionally, iiiai, sking her tl unt of it k been niistakt n very youi. iT suitable i, Fishery. its, and hail i I shonld St likely p: endent subs idea of bei a life spent me, a I iff 3 plans of p ceeding, there happened at thii, time to arrive from the West Indies a gentleman of the name of Potts, a rela- tion of Mrs. Walker, whose health had suffered much from the climate. He was in partnership with some Liverpool merchants concerned in the Greenland whale fishery, and having consulted Dr. Lyon, an eminent physician, he was recommended to take a voyage to Greenland, in one of the ships of the company; and at once decided to do so. One day, being at Mrs. Walker's, I met Captain Potts there, who, finding I was out of employment, and Mrs. Walker having spoken favourably of me, said that, if I had no objection to fill up a few months of my leisure time by taking a trip with him to the frozen seas, he would be glad to give me a bertli in the sliij), of whicli he was part-owner, as he meant to takj com- mand of her himself; that such as his tabic afforded I should share with him. Nothing, at the present mo- ment, could have occurred more op])ortune, or more consonant with my wishes, and I embraced his kind oflFer with eagerness. When all nuitters for the voy- age were in readiness, towards the end of March, we embarked in the good shij) 'Peggy,' and })ut to sea. We carried out a medical gentlenum, whose services fortunately were not re([uired, my friend the captain harv'ing speedily recovered, and n*^ siekness having occurred among the crew. Being naturally of an in(piisitive turn of mind, every- iiig new was sure to engage my attention. All the manonlvres of the ship, reefing, steering, and heaving the lead ; the measuring the ship's way, and the taking and working an observation for the latitude — of all these I knew something superficially from my friend c 18 GKEENLAND SEA. fClIAI'. Chippendale, but I now observed them with a i)ractical eye ; and Potts encouraged me in putting them to actual practice ; he appointed a smart young man to instruct me how to steer, to ass'st him in reefing a sail, tu take azinmths and altitudes, which I knew pretty wcl! how to work — in short, in all the tactical parts of navigation •, and the more I learnt of it the more 1 liked it. When we arrived at the south-east ice, which in tlu early part of the season is found to extend from tik east coast of Greenland to the west coast of Norway, the appearance of nature was new to me ; evcrv side of us being an unlimited plain of ice, on whicli were innumerable herds of seals strewed upon the sur- face, like so many sheep scattered over the dowib, But our object was the whale, and to get at him \\i must proceed to the northward, in which we succeedni by taking advantage of openings in the held of id between the detached hummocks, that were not nuiti larger, however, than those I had occasionally seen ii the river Mersey. In proceeding to the northward, we passed, at soiiu distance. Cherry Island, which, we found from an ui book that Potts had provided, was first discovered L Barentz in the year 1575, and named by him Bcii: Island, from his having killed near it one of tlio animals, not however a bear, but what is called a morsi or walrus ; but, some eight or nine years atlerwarir when one Beiinet saw this island, he changed its iiaii; to Cherie, after the worshipful Francis Cherie, who lia sent out the ship; and the conversion into Cherry, a we found it, was natural enough. The multitude < these morses that were afterwards found heaped togi He stec and dboii b<)w nxin( atid the the men I fClIAP. I. a practical 2111 to actual 1 to instruct ^ a sail, ti) pretty ^Vl.H jal parts ot the more 1 which in tin ntl from tlk ; of Norway, me •, every ice, on whicli upon the sui- r the dowib, et at him ^\t we succeedui 3 held of i(' ere not inuei )nally seen ii [issed, at soiii- from an (•!' discovered l*; by him B*.a; one of tlu^ ialled a mors, irs atlerward- nged its naiin herie, who ha nto Cherry, i^ J nudtitudc > 1 heaped tofit- • Sect. Ill] GREENLAND SEA. 19 ther on the shores and the surrounding ice of this island is ahnost incredible ; but anything may be be- lieved of the fecundity of Spitzbcrgen, and its conti- guous islands, in all varieties of the animal creation, after reading the interesting and instructive narrative Df Captain IJeechey. W^e kept so far from the shore, that we saw very few of the bears, foxes, or walruses, or of the herds of rein-deer that browse on the shores and low islands of Spit/bergen ; but since the discoveries that have been made and published by the late Northern voyagers, the little that could now be said on a whaling voyage, diade nearly seventy years ago, would afford neither novelty nor amusement, and therefore to the fishery I shall chiefly confine myself. We had not advanced fa'- along the coast of Spitz- bcrgen, before the look-out man called out with a sten- torian voice Falll f(iI/!—the notice of a whale being •within chace-distance. All was instantly noise and bustle, and apparent confusion throughout the sliij) — the boats were manned, and three or four persons only left on board. Eager to partake in the chacc, I asked my friend the captain to allow me to go and pull an oar. He said "By all means," and placed me under the boat- Steerer of one of the crafl. The whale kept blowing and moving on gradually, as if unconscious of wiiat was about to betide her, when the harpooner, standing in the bow of the first boat, darted his harpoon into tbe pro- ininent part of its back : immediately up went the broad and dangerous tail, and down the monster plunged into the deep, making the side of the boat smoke again by the ra])idity with which it drew out the line. In the Btteantiine the rest o+'the boats spread themselves, to be "^ c 2 20 GHEENLAND SEA. [CllAI-. I. ro«i(ly for its rising ; and before it eould again ])lun^c, a seeond boat succeeded in ])lacing a second liarjjoon in the large carcase. Away it again started, and tlu loose boats hooked on to the two fast ones, and the in- creased resistance caused its pace to slacken. Now was the time for the s])ikesoneer, with his loiiji lance, to pierce the vital ])arts, and he did it most effectually, as was proved by the (piantity of water mixed with blood that was thrown out of the blow-hol', when a general shout arose, "Her chimney is on lii-o." She still endeavoured to continue her run ; but, smait- ing with an accunuilation of wounds, and weakened, as it no doubt nuist have been, by the great loss of blood, together with the weight of the boats she had to drat;, its pace gradually s.ackened, and life, by the repetition of the lance, was, ere long, extinct. The next process is to fix the lines to the body, sn as to admit of its being towed to the ship — to be plactd there belly upwards longitudinally, close alongside, ami proj)erly secured, by being made fast to the bow ami stern and also to the midships. It is then marked out by longitudiiud and lateral lines, as directions to the cutters- up, a selection of the men, who stand upon the body ut the animal to cut out, with their large sharj) knives, tlit masses of blubber ; and these being sent upon deck aiv again cut into strips and put into casks through flu bung-holes, which are then closed up and not opeiud till the arrival of the shij) at her destined port. 'J'lit process on board, with plenty of saw-dust, is perfecth cleanly and void of all smell ; what it may be on th discharge of cargo, after a voyage home and exj)osiii'. to warm weather, I know not. While the process of cutting is going on, the luii! '''% [CllAl'. I. in ])lun}iO, X ]m\V\)0{)\\ (I, uikI tho uid tlie iu- i\\ Ills loii^ 1(1 it most \,' of wativ ! l)lo\V-ll()k', is on lire." but, smart- eakcncd, as ss of l)l()(t(l, i;ul to (li-au, e repetitiiiii ^KCT. iir.] GWEKNLAND SEA. 21 le body, so :o be placnd )ngsi(k', and le bow and irked out hy tbc cutters- the body (it ) knives, tin )()n deck ar. through till not opened port, 'i'lii is perfects ay be on tli nd ex])()sur' on, the iiiii'' titudc! of tlie Kull tri])c which creep upon and cover the earcase of the animal is perfectly astonishing, but Beechey tells us that the sea about Spitzbergen is as iTMch alive as the land. In fact, the (piantity of mal- monks, hurgomesters, strontjaggers, and kittiwakes that literally take possession of the animal is quite anuising; and such is their voracity f()r blubber that whole swarms of them sulfer themselves to be knocked on the head, by the crew, with sticks or any other weapon they can lay hold of The whale, when physically considered, is a most extraordinary animal; and it required all the ingenuity, the ])r;u'tical knowledge, and the indefatigable labour and thought, of that greatest naturalist of his day, Linna'us, to give it a pro})er place in the classification of his Si/.'<tcina Xatiird'. He found that the cetaceous tribe of animals had nothing whatever common or ])e- culiar to fish, except that they lived in the same ele- ment; he discovered that their heart was doubly cellular, and circulated imrui blood ; that they breathed by means of lungs, and that they suckled their young — none of which (pialities arc ])artaken by fish ; — that they had besides a horizontal tail, which fish have not ; no scales on the body, as Hsh have ; and as he had with wonderful skill and diligence divided all Nature into its separate and peculiar classes, as far as kne^ u or could be acquired, he placed the whale among those animals that suckle their young, that is to say, in the order of the niaiiima/id. The structure of the throat and mouth of the whale incapacitates this huge animal from eating or devouring fish, thongb living in the same element with itself; the roots of its two lower jaws nearly meet and close the 22 GltEENLAMJ SEA. [CllAl-. I. whole tliroat, so that nothing but the small tribe of c//(;.v, small shrimps, and worms, mollusca, or marine insects that abound in the Aretic seas, can serve it as food. Of the six whales which we succeeded in striking, oiio of them escaped, but not before it had very nearly occasioned us some mischief. On receiving the wound of the harpoon it made direct towards afield of ice, and Avent down under it, but as when wounded they never remain long under water, all the boats came close to the edge of the ice ; it arose and received a second harpoon, and iu plunging down threw U]) its enormous tail just under one of the boats, which it cast upon the field of ice, with six persons in it, of whom I w;l.^ one : we none of us received much harm, but the sidt of the boat was shattered. The creature never again came from under the ice ; one of the harpoons w;i« drawn out, and to save the remaining line of the other, it was decided to cut it. I preserved, with some little trouble, a couple of jaw- bones, which were sent to Ulverstone and set U]) !b gate-posts to the entrance of a small croft close to our cottage. I wished also to have procured a cou})!<' c the long spiral horns of the monodon monoceros or sea-unicorn, which nuike handsome bed-posts, but mi- unable to succeed. LinUcLnis says the dentes or hori:- of this animal are two in the young ones, but in tli older ones single. Doubting this to be the case, I asked the Ifte Sir Everard Home, some years after wards, at the Royal Society club, if he had ever im with a sea-unicorn with luore than one horn : 1; promptly replied, yes; that they were all born wit: two, but that one only grew out, and that the other \s\\- supposed to be kept in its socket, as a reserve to siippl natel the darlj Whi( LCUAl". 1. ribe of dios, rinc insocta as food, striking, one very nearly fv the wound (l of ice, ami d tliey never ime close to red a second its euorniuu- ast ui)on tlifc whom I wa> but the siilt never again harpoons ws of the other, couple of jaw- ,nd set up ;i> "t close to our A a couple 0! monoceros n: -posts, but wi..- li'ntc-'< or horn- lies, but in tli e the case, i ic years after had ever nif one horn : li all born wil: t the other ^vll serve to siippl BKcr. I II. J UUKENLAND SEA. 23 the place of the former, should any accident hai)i)en to it, in which case it grew out. Wonderful as we know, in a nudtitude of instances, the }n*ovisions of Nature ire to sup])ly defects of accident, I appeared still to doubt, when kSir Everard said, " Mr. Clitf shall bring the iSkull of a narwhal to the Admiralty, and show you the jroimg horn in its socket :" he did so, and with a hammer And chisel, and after nearly two hours' labour, he chipped 6ft' the part of the skull that covered it, when tliere cer- tainly dhi appear a perfect end)ryo enclosed ; but ano- ther question occurred — the old horn had been broken off within a foot of the skull; Mhy did not the young one come out to take its place? The answer, of course, iWis ready : the old horn might have met with the acci- dent subsequent to the death of the animal, or, as more likely, at the time of its death. I had nothing further to say to my friend Home but to apologise for my in- ci'edulity. In the course of our progress to the northward, and ^en about half a degree to the southward of Ilakluyt's Headland, a strong breeze of wind, from the north, brought down such immense masses of floes or fields of ice, with hunnnocks approaching in size to icebergs in- tervening, that we were hastily compelled to make all i^ug, and prepare for being beset. We had six or seven sail of whalers in sight, each of them doing the ^tfme thing ; and in the course of a few hours we were surrounded, and so completely beset in the ice, that, in •^llatever direction we cast our eyes, the horizon termi- ndted in one unbroken surface of that element, with the exception, however, of the seven valleys and the dark crags of Si)itzbcrgen about Magdalena Bay, to ^ich we were opposite •, each of these valleys being 24 GJiKliNLANU SKA. [CllAl 8e< lillc'd with ail iiiiiiiciise glacier, known to the Dutch ;is tlie Seven Icebergs (schaii i/.^^jihcrtitc). It would seem, however, from the accounts of late voyagers, that four only of these icebergs or glaciers are now reinainiiifr, and that one of these, Captain Ueechey says, " I'roni its peculiar appearance and j)ositioii, seems as if a very small matter would detach it from the mountain, and precipitate it into the sea." In another })art of llu coast, it is said, the firing of a gun brought down from the glacier such a mass, as to form a floating iceberg: in the sea. But to return to the situation in which our ship was - beset and helpless. The weather fortunately was tran- quil, and on the fifth day a change of wind to the soutli, increasing to what may be called a brisk gale, by meet- ing the uortherly current, caused so much confusion ii! the ice, and so many heavy blows to the poor ' IVggy,' that apprehensions were at one time entertained shi would not escape without damage. The ice, how- ever, broke up into numerous masses, with channels ct open water between them, like so many streets in a town, the whole of which in the course of three days wci\ dred swept away to the northward and entirely disa})peari.(l. vesse Some of the crciw recognised a ship not far from ustn avoi( be the ' Betsy,' of Liverj)ool, and Ca))tain Potts wisJK i! and to go on board to ask how they had fared. Observin: I ma a gentleman in a naval undress unifbrin jacket, \\\v — to was introduced to us l)y the master as Captain Coffin, Oi of the Navy ; we were told that he had also taken tlit doeto voyage for the benefit of his health. I believe Adniira! first Sir Isaac Coffin, with whom I afterwards became wil of th acquainted, was at this time only a lieutenant. He i:i sever; formed us that, on the first breaking up of the ice, tli first fis lU( an ter act kin and see I spri the the ram him.' afloa offb over byth from Coffi LChai 4 $:cr. III.] (iliKKNLAND SKA. 2.'5 L> Dutch as vould sccni, rs, that tour ,' remainiu'A s, " iVoui its as it* a very fmntain, and pivrt of tlu t down tVoii iliiig iceborf ,r ship was - [^y was trail- to the soutli, ;ak-, by iiu'tt- fish wore always hungry; that lie had just been trying liis luck, and bad caught a hirge codfish 03 lbs. in weight, and be asked us to stay dinner and partake of it. Sir Isaac CofKn was one of those singular charac- ters, who are sometimes called oddities, because their actions nre not governed by the ordinary rules of man- kind. Wbenever he was in a sbip j)assing the tropics, and a fresh breeze blowing, it is said he was sure to be seen on the forecastle, on the anchor-stock, or on the spritsail-yard, with his lance ready poised to dash into the dolphins, when seen Hashing like lightning across the bow of the ship ; and he is said to have rarely missed his aim, except on one occasion when be threw himseltj spear in hand, on a passing ])orj)oise, and kept afloat astride of bis prize, like another Arion, till fetched I confusion in off by a boat. loor ' Peggy,' Towards the latter period of his life, Sir Isaac went tertained slu over to an island in the St. Lawrence, peopled nu)stly he ice, how- by the descendants of his family. In a letter I received th channels dt from hiin he said, " I have been among three humlred ■cts in atowii. CoflRns, and have built a school to bold about a hun- ee days wen dred of tlieir young ones ; and in returning, the snudl disappeared vessel liaving caught fire, I jumj)ed overboard and, to far from us t' avoid being bunit, was very nearly being drowned; I Totts wislid! and thus, having escaped these two perils, I supjwse Observiii. I may consider myself reserved for the remaining one u jacket, wli' — to be banged." ptain Cotliii. ©n our advance to the northward, our little Welsh also taken tli doetor became very fidgety about witnessing, for the elieve Adniiva first time, the sun just skimming the northern })art s became wil of the horizon about midnight, having, he said, lost euant. Uc i:i several niglits' sleep, by bis vigilance in watching tlic of the ice, tli first emersion of its whole body above the horizon. ■'%' 26 GKEENLANU SEA. |.(,'1IA1>. I. He frequently expressed his great delight that the sun, during our stay, was never to set, but permanently to si 3d his benign rays upon us. His messmates, how- ever, used to check his ardour, and endeavoured to convince him of his mistake, in fancying the glaring light of the sun, reflected from the ice and snow, agree- able, 't being not only unpleasant, but injurious to the eyes : that a few clouds and a fog, which would he of frequent occurrence, are a great relief, and that the permanence he so nuich wished for not only would in- terfere Mith his hours of rest, but that he would he puzzled to know when it was time to go to bed, and when to rise — nay, that occasions might happen, when a day or more would either be lost or gained upon the voyage. All this, however true, was incomprehensible to the Welshman, but he had proof of the latter part on re- turning home. The long labours of the people in chasing, capturing, towing to the ship, and cutting np the several whales caught, together with stowing the blubber away in the casks and hold, each fish employ- ing all hands forty-eight or fifty hours, made all of us indeed so little careful of kee])ing time, that we actually did lose a dav ; and it was not discovered until we en- tered the ISIersey when, on approaching St. Nicholas's Church, we heard the bells ringing and saw a mmi])ei' of people proceeding towards that place of M^orship. We concluded therefore that it was Sunday, whieli was confirmed by the pilot, whereas by our watches and the shi})\s log it was Saturday. It a])]icars thiit Captain Sir E. Parry, on one occasion, got into this perplexity, and to prevent its hap])ening on a ihturc voyage, he had the dial })lates of several watches marked [ClIAl-. I. Sect. III.) GUEENLAND SEA. 27 t the sun, nently to ites, ll0^v- ourcd to le glaring 3w, agrec- urious to would be 1 that the would in- would be bed, and pen, when [ upon the ible to the lart on !•(!- people in cutting up owing the ih eniploy- .' all of us ve actually ntil we en- Nicholas's a number t' worship, ay, Avhieli lY watcher pears thiit into this I a liiturc ics marked with twenty-four hours instead of twelve ; the first at the top of tl^f^ dial representing midnight, the twelfth at the bottom mid-day, by which such a mistake could not easily happen. For my own part I confess that my trip to the Spitz- bergen seas was a disappointment. We never once met with a floating iceberg. We saw masses of ice resembling ruined cathedrals, churches, palaces, pillars, bridges, beautiful stalactites, and all sorts of ima- ginary ruins — the fragments probably of icebergs; and were sufficiently near to observe the jagged and pointed mountains of Spitzbergen from the south point of the coast, to the 80th parallel of latitude, \\ith the numerous deep-indented valleys choked with snow 3pd glaciers — the parents of icebergs; and we came near enough to vicAV the several islands covered with verdure, on which whole herds of rein-deer are said to feed, as well as up the lower slopes of the mountains, <^othed with lichens and saxifrage. But my then lack of information has been amply supplied by the late polar voyages, and the whole of the Spitzbergen coast, both by sea and land, described as a most lively scene of animated nature. At this time, however, from all these gratifying objects we were cut off, which I nuich regretted, but neither did nor could complain. I knew that the fishery, as it is called, was the only object of the voyage; mine was mere curiosity. With an inherent dislike of inactivity, I had here 110 difficulty in finding the means of occupation either for mind or body, or both ; for the former, a regular journal was kept of the state of the wind and weather, of the barometer and thermometer, the variation of the <»mj)ass, with such other remarks as were deemed • t ' 'I :• 'Mr 28 THE MINISTER OF SEATHVVAITE. [CilAP. I, worthy of notice, which, however, were neither niaiiv nor important; an:l to fill np the long clay of perpetual sun I attempted, for the first, and, as far as my memory serves me, for the last time in my life, ca poem on tlio Arctic llegions, in blank verse, after the manner (if Thomson's 'AV inter.' Poetry, however, I soon dis- covered was not my forte, and the materials I had to work upon were not of the most inviting nature to the Muse. The feats and fates of whales and narwhals, morses, seals, bears, and foxes, malmouks, burgomesters, and stroll tjaggers, could aftbrd but rugged materials for blank verse. It was scribbled merely for aiiuisemciit and to kill time, but mv friend Totts carried it uti with him, and I know nothing of what became of it, Neither was I wanting in bodily exercise : I cou " hand, reef, and steer ;" to heave the lead was t much for me; but Captain Potts so far complimeiih'i! me as to say, that another voyage woidd make me a.« good a seaman as many of those in his ship ; and he put me down on the books for landsman's pay, and nothing that I could say, when I knew it, would induce him t' take itoif, his own name being at the head of the list. (1 (III Section IV Dcdth. of mji Idle j\fa!^h')' of Toicn Batik School, ai,- Sketch of the Jll.ston/ of his venerable Father, (I remarkahle Minister of the Cliapel of Seathicaite. On my return from Greenland I hastened to Ulvir- stone to see my parents, against wlu)se inclination 1 had gone thither. 1 was desirous also of visiting oiui [CilAI-. 1. kcT. IV.] THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. 29 either many of perpetual my memory poem on the ! maimer of I soon dis- ials I liad to nature to the ul narwhals, mrgomesters. materials iur • anuisemciit carried it oft )eeame of it, .se : I could lead was ton complimented make me ib )•, and he put , and nothin: nduce hiui ti I of the list. \i Father^ ll lathuriite. lied to Ulvii' inelinatioii 1 f visiting oiu more my early friends and old school-fellows, and among the first my greatly-respected master, Walker, of Town Bank, whose health I was sorry to find much impaired. Here I remaiiie<l some months, and passed the time very pleasantly, every one apparently being glad to see me, and asking a multitude of questions about Greenland, of which I could tell them but little. I visited the lakes and the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland, and the beautiful village of Penny- bridge, where the Crake, or river from the Conistoii lake, falls into Morecainbe Bay, and where the fine blue slate is shipped. Near this place I also visited Mr. Wilkinson's iron-works, bearing in mind those I had left in Liverpool ; but I had another object — to see the manner in which Mr. Wilkinson had proceeded in obtaining, from the naked sands of Morecambe, a great extent of the most verdant meadow-land that eyes could wish to behold, mostly and simply by driving in stakes to obstruct the tide both in its flood and ebb. I was gratified, in aftertime, to describe what I had seen to one of the most scientific men of the age, the venerable jNIr. Cavendish, who possessed a large estate on the ojjposite side of the bay, and was devising means to do what Wilkinson had effected, only to a mucii greater extent. On my return to Ulverstone, the illness of my worthy master of Town Bank school had taken a dan- gerous turn, which speedily ended in his death; a severe drawback on the ])leasure I had j)roniised myself in his society, for he had always been particularly kind and attentive to me ; and, indeed, whatever progress T had made in the classics I owed to him. His funeral was most attectiiig, for he was greatly beloved, and all his •■: I i^' 1,1 i; .v?i INI" 30 THE MINISTER OF SRATIIWAITE. [ClIAI.. young flock attended. Among others was prcson: ^ S his venerable father, eighty years of age, who, ti ven( pay this last tribute of affection to the memory of; H beloved son, had come down from the farthest poiir Mfi^c of Furness Fell, some eighteen miles distant, \\\\n ^^^'^ he had long been minister of the humble chapel r O0ftt Seathwaite, which was at once his chapel and hi R^?s> school. As this aged patriarch, with his flowing loci; ^^V^^ white as snow, stood by the grave of his departed isn **9d. while the funeral service was reading, all eyes were di ^^v rected towards his venerable figure. At the conclusic ^^^"Oc of the ceremony, he stepped slowly to the edge of tl: "S'"^ grave, and there, with uplifted face and clasped hand scljoli the tears trickling down his aged cheeks, was ol^servt ^^"" *■ to be uttering a silent prayer towards heaven. T! ^ ^ impression made on my mind by this mournful seem- ^^ *' the loss of the son, whom I loved, and the grief ^^^^^^ • The / the father, whom I respected, more than sixty ycr ^ have not been able to obliterate. And even junv I feel impelled by a strong desin repeat the history of this good old clergyman, win whole life was spent in the solitude of the roniniit '^^^J streams and mountains of a secluded part of Westnuii land, instructing the rude and simple peasantry in tin duty to God and to man, and assisting them with I: advice and by his superior knowledge. I had ni;i: '^'' particulars of his life at the time, and since that sm ** given by himself, which curiosity, accompanied liy y ^ better feeling, had extracted from him. Sensible n- ^^^^ am of the fine example his whole life exhibits, ;i ^^^^ how many thousands there are of the same calling, i much better in their circumstances, considering t:^"*^^ difference in the times, than he was, I sliJill not hv>\\i: J ^"^ beconi it; h( each of his W fCiiAr. Sip. I v.] THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. 31 was prcstii! ige, who, ti memory of j farthest poiii' listant, whop l)le chapel > apel and lii ; flowing h(\ ; departed si eyes were d: fhe conchisir le edge of t' chisped hand . w.tS ohservt Ui give a hasty sketch of the life of the Ilevereiid and venerable Robert Walker. He was born and educated at a place called Un- 4ercrag, in Seathwaite, in 1/09, being the youngest of twelve children, the progeny of humble parents. S0athwaite Is one of the most beautiful vales in Fur- ness, situate close to the river Duddon, which skirts the counties of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumber- land. The small chapel of Seathwaite was used not only for the purposes of divine service, but also as a school for the children of -the valley. Here Robert Walker commenced his education, and became so apt a scholar that he was appointed schoolmaster to a ^^Imilar kind of establishment at Lowes- Water cha])el ; and here, , .ri by the assistance of a friend, he was able to extend heaven, il f , . ' ,. 1 , . „ his knowledge of the classics, by which, and by his lush lurntul scei\L- ^ t, i • , • , , , 1 a „„;,♦• cnaracter, lie was readily admitted into holv orders. 1(1 tlie grui . . . , . " " . , ' . , The liriiK/, if it may be so called, of Seathwaite had an sixty Ma ■' *' become vacant and was oU'ered to him, and he accepted f()n«'- desiiT ^*> '^^ ^^'^^^ previously othciated at that of Lowes-Water, .ryiiian, will- ^^^^ ^^'-'"^^ ^*^' ^^'^ ^^^^^^ \ii\m, namely, /we pounds '"^the' r()maii! ^"y^^^- li^iving obtained the living of Seathwaite, he t of Westnu.i "^*"'^* ^^ ' '^'^'^ by the frugality and good management 4-.,.r ;.. tl„ of his wife, was enabled to furnish his humble dwelling, asantry m m _, . , ^ ,,^ , . »• them with Ir ^"^^^ ^^^ remained at Lowes- Water, his narrow I had ma ^^^^^^^mstances, with an increasing family, and his fi,.,f <n; ^^^^ '^"^^ estimable character, made him universally since tnat ^<'' i i i • i • i i i , "^ ,„,^.,.np,1 hv '^^^^^^'^^ i'» t"^' neighbourhood; and his rei)utatiou lOmpcUlK- >l . -L • II • f. «.,.c;ki,. 1 ^aviBg attracted the attention of a stranger, he was '■ exhibits a^^^"*^^*^^ *^" 1^'^y ""^^ ^ ^■^^^'^■' ^^^^^ ^^^^^ describes the ame callin-l iT^^"^*' " ^ ^*^u»^l lii'» fitting at the head of a long ..oMni^in.v .square table, such as is commonly used in this country ;hall not hesitry ^^ *"^^^'*' ^'"^^ ^*^ people, dressed m a coarse blue '.VI .:,!^ .'32 THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. [ClIAI'. trock, trimmed with black horn buttons, a checked shirt, a leathern strap about his neck for a stock, a coarse apron, and a pair of great heavy woodcn-sokd shoes, plated with iron to preserve them ; with a child upon his knee, eating his breakfast ; his wife and the remainder of his flunily, which consists of nine chil- dren, were some of them employed in waiting on each other, the rest in teazing and spinning wool, at which he is a great proficient, and when made ready for sale he carries it on his bark, and on foot, seven or eight miles to market, even in the depth of winter," &c. The friend, to whom this account was written, de- termined to satisfy himself by taking a journey from Lancaster for the purpose of paying him a visit. lie found him to be all that was represented ; that his good moral conduct and meek behaviour had gained him ; an uncommon degree of respect among his neighbours; and he adds, "a man who, for his candour and meek- ness, his sober, chaste, and virtuous conversation, his soundness of principle and practice, is an ornament tn his profession, and an honour to the country he is in : and, bear with me if I say, the plainness of his dress, the sanctity of his manners, the simplicity of his doc- trine, and the vehemence of his expression, have a sort of resemblance to the pure practice of primitive Christianity." The writer of this (signed ]\Ir. C, of Lancaster, in the Annual Register) was so strongly impressed with the character and condition of Mr. Walker, wishing to have a particular account of tlio value of his curacy and the number and state of his family, he retpiested him to be kind enough to satisiy him. To whom Mr. Walker replies shortly after in writing : — [Chap. 1. Skct. IV.] THE MINISTER OF SEATIIVVAITE. 33 I checked stock, a dcn-sokd th a chikl e and tlie line chil- ^ on each at which y for sale 1 or eiglil &c. itten, (Ic- iiey from isit. He ; his good d hini ail ighbours ; d meck- ition, lli.^ anient tn he is ill ; lis th'css, ' liis doc- ve a sort )riniitivc r. C, of strongly of Mr. t of the of his o satisi'y after in " I should have returned an immediate answer, but the hand of Providence, then lying heavy upon an amiable pledge of conjugal endearment, hath since taken from me a promising girl, which the disconsolate mother too pensively laments the loss of; though we have yet eight living, all healthful, hopeful children, whose names and ages are as follows." (He here gives the names and ages of three boys and five girls.) " The annual income of my chapel at present, as near as I can compute it, may amount to about 171; 10/. of which is paid in cash, namely, 5/. from the bounty of Queen Anne, and 5/. from W. P., Esq., out of the animal rents, he being lord of the manor, and 3/. from the several inhabitants of Lowes, settled upon their tenements as a rent-charge : the house and gardens I value at 4/. yearly, and not worth more ; and I believe the surplice fees and voluntary contributions, one year with another, may be worth 3/. ; but, as the inhabitants are few in number, and the fees are very low, this last- mentioned sum consists chiefly in free-will offerings. " I am situated greatly to my satisfaction with regard to the conduct and behaviour of my auditory, who not only live in happy ignorance of the follies and vices of the age, but in nmtual peace and good-will with one another, and are seemingly (and I hope really too) sincere Christians, and sound members of the Esta- blished Church, not one dissenter of any denomination being amongst them all. I got to the value of 40/. for my wife's fortune, but had no real estate or cash of my own, being the youngest son of twelve children, born of obscure parents ; and though my income has been but small, and my family large, yet, by a providential blessing upon my own diligent endeavours, the kind- le t ■I ' . I 34 THE MINISTElt OF SEATIIWAITE. [CUAl'. I. iit'ss of'f'rien and a cheap country to live in, we have always had the necessaries of life. "R. W., Curate of S , " To Mr. C, of Lancaster." 17r)G. About this time the Bishop of Chester was thinking of joining the curacy of Ulpha to the contiguous one of Seathwaite, and oft'ered the nomination to Mr. Walker, who, in expressing his thanks to the Bishop, begged leave rather to decline than embrace it; " for the chapels of Seathwaite and Ulj)ha annexed together would bo apt to cause a general discontent among the inhabitants of both places, by either thinking themselves slighted or neglected in the duty, or attributing it to covetous- ness in me ; all which occasions of nmrmuring I would willingly avoid ; desiring, if it be possible, as nuich as in me lieth, to live peaceably with all men." In order to provide for his numerous family, his habits of industry have certainly no parallel. For eight hours each day, for five days in the week, and on the Saturday morning, Mr. Walker was to be found in his school, which he held within the chapel. Seated in the recess that contained the connnunion-table, and which supplied the place of a desk, and Mhile the chil- dren were repeating their lessons, he constantly em- ployed himself at his spinning-wheel ; his evenings were also mostly spent at the wheel, except when act- ing for his rustic neighbours as their scrivener, nuikiiiLi out deeds of conveyance, agreements, wills, or anythinii that required writing, in which he sometimes passed a great part of the night. With all this he found tinif to cultivate his little garden and two or three acres of ground, which he rented in addition to his gkhe. [Chap. I. , WO have 1750. s thinking ous one of r. Walker, p, begged the chapels would bo inhabitants es slighted covetous- ig I would IS much as aniily, liis For eight uid on the ; found in d\. Seated -table, and le the cliil- itantly em- s eveniii^^< t when aft- er, nuikiiiu or anytliinu nics passed found tinif three acre? ) his glebe. :-fSi:cT. IV.] THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. less than an acre. He had also chiefly to look after a couple of cows and a few sheep, for which he had the right of pasturage on the mountains. The sabbath was kept strictly holy ; the Sunday evenings being devoted to reading the Scriptures and family prayer; his only recreation was on a Saturday aft.Tnoon, when he in- dulged himself with a newspaper or a magazine. In these pastoral, culinary, and scholastical occupa- tions was the prolonged life oi' this iro)idi'?'f id man (as he was truly called) passed, sixty-six years as curate of Scathwaite Chapel, in primitive simplicity and sub- stantial happiness. A memorandum is said to exist, Mritten by one of his descendants, that he administered the Sacrament to a party which consisted of himself; his wife, to whom he had been married u])wards of igixty years ; one son and his wife ; four daughters, each with her husband ; whose united ages amounted to above ^14 years, and the distance they had come, from their ^respective abodes, measured upwards of 1000 English ianilcs. It is stated that the same circumstance had ioccurred four years before. f In the maintenance of all his virtues he received due iupport from the partner of his long life. An old ser- vant said to one of the munerous inquirers, " She was no less excellent than her husband; she was good to the poor V-she was good to everything." Mr. \Valkcr survived |>ut a short time this virtuous companion. AVhen she |ied, he ordered that her body should be borne to the |rave by three of her daughters and one grand-daughter, ind when the corpse was lifted from the threshold he kisisted upon lending his aid ; and feeling about, for %e was then almost blind, he laid hold of a napkin |xed to the coffin, and as a bearer entered the chapel I few steps from the lowly parsonage. I , I ^■\\ D 2 :?(! THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. [CiiAr, I. Mr. Wordsworth quotes from the 'Christian Re- ineuibranccr ' of October, 1819, a beautifully-written character of Mr. Walker, known, he says, to be the work of the Rev. Robt. Banifbrd, a great-grandson of Mr. Walker. In this it is recorded that " Until tliu sickness of his wife, a few months previous to her death, his health and spirits and faculties were unim- paired. But this misfortune gave him such a shock, tbat his constitution gradually decayed. His senses, except sight, still preserved their powers. He never preached with steadiness after his wife's death ; lii> voice faltered ; he always looked at the seat she had us 'd. He could not pass her tomb without tears. He becme when alone sad and melancholy, though still among his friends kind and good-humoured. He went to bed about twelve o'clock the night before his death. As his custom was, he went, tottering and leaning upon his daughter's arm, to examine the heavens and medi- tate a few moments in the open air. ' How clear the moon shines to-night!' He said these words, sighed, and lay down. At six next morning he was found a corpse. Many a tear, and many a heavy heart, and many a grateful blessing followed him to the grave." In Seathwaite churchyard, on a plain blue slab, is the following inscription : — " In memory of the Reverend Robert Walker, whu died the 2.5th of June, 1802, in the 93rd year of \m age, and 67th of his curacy at Seathwaite. "Also, or' Anne his wife, who died the 28th of January, in the 93rd year of her age." Scanty as was his income, yet such was his frugality and good management that he is said to have left be- hind him at his decease not less than 2000^. in money, and a large store of webs of woollen and linen clotli. ' "».« ICllAl'. 1, •istian Re- illy-writteii to be the jraudson of " Until the )us to hor verc uniiu- cli a sboek, His senses, lie never death; hi« ;at she bad tears. He though still . He went •e bis death. caning upon and modi- >\v clear the irds, sigbt'd, was found a heart, and e grave." (hie slab, i> Valker, whu year of hi: the 28tb ol his frugality lave left he- )/. in money. linen clotli. Skct. IV.] GIBSON, THE WISE MAN. 37 woven from thread of the family's own spinning. His eldest son, Zaccheus, was learning the trade of a tanner, but by bis abilities and good conduct he bad made himself friends, wbo procured bim a situation in the Solio manufactory of Bolton and Watt, where he succeeded to a sbare in one of the departments of that magnificent establishment, and where in the year 180.5, on paying a visit to my friend the present Mr. Watt, I unexpectedly and with great pleasure found my early schoolfellow, and colleague in the survey of Conisbcd Priory, Zaccheus Walker, son of the former of that ^ame, as a functionary of the Sobo, whom I had not keen since our co-operation in that survey. Having performed tbe last melancholy obsequies at the grave of my lamented master, and feeling no dis- position for engaging in parties of pleasure, I rode over to tbe residence of my old friend Gibson, the self-taught matbematician and almanac-maker, wbo expressed himself delighted to see me, and asked a thousand ques- Jions about navigating ships in an icy sea, and doubted ibot that, with my activity and tbe desire he had ob- ierved in me for information, I had almost become a iailor. I told him he was right; that I put a band to everything where I could be of use; among others, that by tbe kindness of my friend, I bad learned to take and work an observation for the latitude by meridional and ipso by double altitudes, but no one in the ship was ac- quainted with any method for obtaining the longitude wy observation. " But you ought," he said : " no young man should stop short in any pursuit he undertakes till he has conquered the whole ; for, without a profession, as you are, you cannot tell to what c'od use knowledge of any kind may be applied. Shut up in this retreat " .Mil 1 ••♦ ' I, •U 38 GIIJSON, THE WISE MAN. [CUAl'. I. the extent of iny kiiowle(l}i,e is of a very limited jukI uiiprodiu'tive kind, but it lias been of use to iny two sons in London, one of whom stands high in the Bank of England, and the other is manager of Calvert's (I think he said) brewery ; it has also been sometimes of use to my neighbours." He then told me, that as I already knew the use of logarithms, and of plane and spherical trigonometry, 1 had only to get Maskelyne's ' Nautical Almanac ' for the year, and his 'Requisite Tables,' in which were all tiic rules, and having obtained the height of the sun and moon, and the angular distance between them at a given hour, or the same data with regard to the moon and ;i fixed star ; and by one of the rules in the ' llequisiti Tai)les,' the longitude of the i)lace of observation is easily found. I made a note at the time with a resoli to Jindtlie luiu/ttude, on the first opportunity that ocv,....cil, The mention of my being without a profession re- called the many uneasy moments which that subjtcf had frequently occasioned nie. I felt I was nn isolated being in society, hanging loose upon it, and having do position in it — what profession could I look up to with any chance of success? The law? None but first-rati talents could hope to succeed in that. Thysic ? Too late to begin the study of it — and the market already overstocked — railroads had notyet sup])lied an accession of patients — and the only prospect was that of becoming' a country apothecary. And the church ? Without powerful friends little to be hoped for beyond a curacy, which barely affords food and clothing ; besides, I never could bring my mind to think myself suited for tin church, and not having had the benefit of an university education, it was by no means clear that a reverciui 4 I mrij m\ pass! Cold Hie [ClIAV. I. Sect. IV.] GIBSON, THE WISii MAN. 3U iiuitcd iiud to my two I the Bank ;^alvcrt's (I (inetiines of ' the use of )nometry, 1 iiac ' tor the reve all tht' he sun and n at a given moon ami ii ! ' llequisiti' tion is easily resoli /" lat 0Cw....«-d. rot'ession re- that snhjfd ;s an isolated tl having im k up to with but tirst-rate hysic V Toil irket already 1 an accession ; of beconiiii': 1 V Without ond a curacy, sides, I never mited for tlu' an university Lt a revcreiul father in God would he found liberal and charitable enongh to admit nie into holy orders. I had under my eye, in the town of Ulverstone, a decayed gentleman, of the age of thirty or thereabonts, who had tried and been rehised by two bisho])s, and was at last ordained io a poor curacy in the North, by the apologist for the Bible, Bishop Watson. Despondency, however, had never made an impres- sion on my mind ; I was in possession of habits of in- dustry, had a great desire to learn, an ardent curiosity, and some few talents to turn these to pra. tical utility. My disposition also was inclined towards opUmism ; a feeling that affords heartfelt consolation. Another point touched upon by my friend, the /visa man, was the success of his sons in London; ind this revived the notion, that had often run in my thoughts, of London being the great theatre for a young man to play his part in ; and how earnestly I had wished to meet with an opportunity of getting there, with a cer- tainty of any kind of employment, that a young man ^f decent education and good character could accept : |br without such certain employment, there could be but One issue, and that — utter ruin ! The good old farmer encouraged me to i)crsevere in my studies, and espe- cially in mathematics, which were a sure foundation for astronomy, and all the rest. I took leave, and Ranked him for all his kindness. a, I was not in much humour for study ; it was, however, ^ried by trimming up the little garden that, in early life, Iiud afforded me so much happiness. Days and weeks pdssed on and nothing turned up, except an offer from a Colonel Dodgson, to superintend property he had in tfllie West Lidies ; but I discovered it to be neither more •i» 1. ■'^ ■ '•Li 40 RESIDENCE -AT GllEENWlCll. LCiiAi-. I. nor less than to superintend the negroes. Of course I declined it. At length, however, a prospect was held out which, though not exactly what I could have wished, yet, if offered to me, I determined to accept. It is curious enough it came from the son of the w/,sy' man, in the Bank of England, who wrote to his father that Dr. James, who kept a large academy at Green- wich, had applied to him to know if he could recom- mend a north-country youth qualified to instriut from fifteen to twenty of the upper hoys in mathe- matics ; to have nothing to do with the rest of the school, and to live in the house ; and Mr. Gihsuii, junior, further added, " He will have to undergo an ex- amination by Dr. Maskelyne, the Astronomer lloy;i]." This rather staggered me, but old Gibson said he was quite sure it would amount to nothing but what I coidd very well answer. Optimism here came to my relief, and I said to myself, this will lead to something better. and, at all events, will take me into the atmosphere of London. I therefore gave the old gentleman a pro- visional consent : he was nmch pleased, said he would write to his son in London, tell him all about me, and hoped, that in ten days or a fortnight, he would be able himself to bring the reply to Dragleybeck. He did so, and also one from Dr. James, which wi> so perfectly satisfactory, and so urgent for my speedy appearance at Greenwich, that I lost no time in settini: out by the coach — railways had not then entered into the head of man — arrived in London — and called on Mr. Gibson at the Bank. He took me down to Green- wich, and there I M'as fixed, if all went right, for tlu next three years. The family appeared to be pleasaiif; consisted of the master, who was a clergyman, and liitl liki Oft tie stiu advi Atnl [Cum: I. Bkct. IV.] KKSIUENCE AT GREENWICH. 41 1 ^ 3f course I ct was held ave wished, ;cept. It is ic 7rise man, his father ly at Greeii- ould recoin- to instnut ^s in luathe'- the rest i)t Mr. Gihsoii, idergo ail ex- amcr Royal." said he ^vas what I coidd to my relief, icthiiig bettor, atmosphere cf clem a 11 a pro- said he would about me, and would be able k. lies, which wa> for my speedy time in settini: n entered i"tu -and called or lown to Green- t right, for tin to be pleasant; yman, and luv' Occasional duty to perform in the city of London ; his lady ; a son about my own age ; a)id three daughters, all younger. About eighteen fine young men were introduced as my pupils, three or four of whom were in or destined for the navy, one a son of Lord Anson, and another of Lord Leveson Gower ; which pleased Uie, as old Gibson had hinted every species of know^- ledge might be brought into play ; that which he had recommended was on the eve of being so. I had no examination to undergo by Dr. Maskelyne ; and saw him but once, accidentally;, but, some years after this, I became well acquainted with him at the Royal Society. 1 need not dwell on the rules of the school, or the system of education. Suffice it to say, I was very aauch my own master ; that I was greatly pleased with tiay pupils, and had no reason to think otherwise than that they were pleased with me ; and I can safely say that, in instructing them, I gained instruction myself; and by having such youngsters under my tuition, I gained another great advantage, which tended to ad- vance my progress in life. The scholars had six weeks holidays at Midsummer and at Chric<-nias; and few of those in my class whose parents lived in London or the neighbourhood that did not invite me to their parents' houses ; and thus I made acquaintance not only with them, but with their friends also ; so that at the termination of my engagement, I had a large acquaintance resident in London. Among these I was pressed by several to give iii- stniction to their children ; and, to such as were well advanced in years and knowledge I had no objection. Among others a lady pupil was recommended to me, .i* "..*■ ' \' 42 KESIDENCE IN LONDON. [ClIAP. 8bi who was most desirous of going through Euclid, and of having exphiined to her the utility to which a know- ledge of it was applicable ; that is, the practical apjilj. cation of the theorems or problems. This was Lady Beaumont, the partner of Sir George Beaumont, most agreeable persons, with whom I lived on terms of inti- macy during their lives ; her ladyship induced a female friend to go through the same process. In this way I passed between two and three years in London, goiiiL- down to Lancashire each year to visit my family. On my last visit, before it was my destiny to kaw England for a time, I found my parents happy ami well, but my mother's eyesight, which had long bee: failing', was now quite gone; the ])rinci})al uneasiii(,>< it occasioned her, was her inability to attend diviiit service, the church being a mile from the cottage, iiiv father and mother having for more than twenty ycjii; never missed the two Sunday services; but my fatlur read to her the morning lessons and the evening servio regularly every Sunday. The loss of sight never iiitii' fered with my mother's usual cheerfulness, and tii- young ladies of Ulverstone were her constant ami agreeable visiters. One day, on my return to town, I was honoured witlis visit from Sir George Staunton, a gentleman with wIkii: I had not yet had the good fortune to meet, and uli introduced himself by saying he was accpuiinted \\\it. ^jj several of my friends, and mentioned Doctor (iillic hers, who were accustomei an un hk av< «f] hot tha cou real assi HCqi and for] tive vivn thef was Sil ▼hcij I d«6 figiii day orsc aatfa wkic Cl some not meet at the VV^estmlnster Library. He said the olijvi hia of his visit was to know if I liad leisure time, and u;; foj willing to bestow a ])orlion of it to give instruction,! whetl the mathenuitics, lo an only son, between the age ol'ti hetrlT [Ciui'.l, Euclid, and of liich a know- L-actical appli- lis was Lady auniont, most terms of iuti- uccd a fcmalt In this way I l(Ondon, goiiv: family, stiny to Icav. ts liappy ami ad long bcci; pal iineasiiK>< attend divlin: lie cottage, my n twenty yciii« but my i'atlKt evening servict dit never intci' Iness, and tli- • constant m> lononred \vitlu, man with whoi: meet, and mIii [KH|uainted uit: )octor Gillies 1 ; accustomed t said the objvi e time, and ^v;' l; iiistructiou, i ;n the age ol'K #CT. IV.J UESIDENCE IN LONDON. 43 ■ 1 ' aaid eleven years, who had been studying the classics under a German gentleman, residing in the house ; that his son was a lively, animated boy, with more than average abilities, and great docility; "ard/' he added, "from the character I have heard of you, I think you both would be disposed to a mutual attachment." I tibanked him for the obliging offer, and the friendly and courteous manner in which it was introduced, and was ready and most willing to afford to his son my best assistance. " I suppose," he said, " you are practically acquainted with astronomy, and know the constellations and principal stars by name. I am a great advocate for practical knowledge ! " I answered in the affirma- tive ; and the constellations and astronomy brought vividly to my mind, my old friend Mr. Gibson, and the globe and the map of Town Bank school ; and I 'pis more than ever persuaded that all is for the best. iSir George gave me his address in Bentinck Street, lihere, by appointment, I was to call on the following day. I found Mr. Staunton to be all that his father had described, and far beyond what my imagination had figured him to be ; and I may here say that, from that d«y to this, in which I am writing, whether together separated by many thousand miles, we never ceased, as far as practicable, to exchange our mutual sentiments, ^ch seldom, if ever, failed to be in accordance ; and regard to the late Sir George Staunton, I should e most ungrateful person in the world, if I did nci every where, and on every occasion, avow that to bitti, and through him, I am indebted for all the good fcBPtune that has attended me through life, and that, wbiether present or absent, he ever had my interest at hetrt, as I shall have occasion to show. 44 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [Chap. H, SlacT. CHAPTER II. EARL OF MACARTNEY'S EMBASSY TO THE EMPEROR OF CHINA. Section I. Preparation and Dejmrture. tunit I thi with A CO Ueve so litl or .iIj be br( exhila Sir G Sir George Staunton said to me one day, " You havt e:|c]ai] no doubt heard rumours about an embassy to China >^^ I have just come from Lord Macartney, ,vho is nomi. « nated Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentian J-^ ^ to the Emperor of China, and I have consented t accompany him, in the capacity of Secretary of Em hassy and Minister Plenipotentiary ; and my su: George is to be of the party, which, I am not witlim: hope, will include you also ; and, under that idea, 1 have particularly requested his Lordship to place yoi: name on the list of his suite, which he is to give i to-morrow. Knowing, as I have reason to do, li: Lordship's desire to have about him such persons i; are likely to be useful, in preference to others, I liai been able to make a strong im])ression in your favoii: as, I told him, you had already made in mine ; li he complains of the East India Company being stiiii' as to the number and emoluments of his suite. I litij we shall succeed : for it is very nuich mv wish, as m as that of my son, that you should be one of the j)ar about to proceed to a country so little known, and a city so rarely visited, as Pekin; and, if I mista': not, you would be glad of so favourable an oppo: It. [CllAI'.II. T. I.] EMBASSY TO ChlNA. 45 rO THE lity, which is not likely soon, if ever, to recur." Jt; thanked Sir George most corc'ially, overpowered Hfith joy at so unexpected a prosp oct of visiting such jl, country and such a capital. I ^ould scarcely be- }^\e that any such good fortune could happen to one i| little known to the world ; but I never desponded Qt abandoned hope — and now that my name was to bf brought forward, under such auspices, I became so exhilarated and so overwhelmed with delight, that on =:;>:Mf George's departure I burst out into the following "Youhav. e|clamation — sy to China ,vho is noiiii' enipotentiav; consented t etary of Kir. and my sti; n not witlidii' that idoii/i to place yoi;: is to giver )u to do, li: lU'h persons;; others, I lia\ n your favoii; in mine; k y being stiiii" suite. 1 lu'l' V wish, as ui le of the par <nown, and ■ , if I mistal. ible an oppo r " Non cuivis liomini contingit adire Pekinuni." ■A week or two passed over, in the greatest suspense p. anxiety on my part ; when at length Sir George l|Buutou announced to me the joyful tidings, that my nitne was enrolled on the effective list of the Ambassa- dll^'s suite, as " Comptroller of the Household ;" and |t Lord Macartney desired to see me. His Lordship e to me a list of the number and names of the seferal mathematical, philosophical, and scientific in- sfcfflnients and works of art, to be taken as presents to tbl Emperor of China, stating where they were pre- paiing, and desired I would look after them and hasten tluir completion. I now felt myself to be in harness, ana once more joyfully repeated to myselfj N^o)i cuici,'^ homiiii, &c. ; a line that, many years afterwards, I took ociiision to place as a motto to the publication of *Tra\i'ls in China.' Previous to this unexpected good fortune, T had partly consented to accompany a gentleman, with his two daughters and a governess, to Italy ; but he readily released me from any promise made or implied, to ' '■ »;' I. 'l ' t • 1 • I. .. ' r 46 EARL OF MACARTNEYS [Chai.I! enable me to pursue an expedition at least more agret able, if not likely, as he said, to be attended with iiior: advantage. Pleasant as a visit to Naples might hav been, much more so certainly was the prospect of m, tering the immense empire of China and its populoii capital. Hardly, however, could I yet persuade myse! of the reality of my extraordinary good fortune. I lost no time, it will readily be believed, in urgin. on the various articles in preparation ; and in makin, also the acquaintance of the Ambassador's suite, wli were to be my colleagues and fellow-voyagers. Tin- were as follows : — Sir George Staunton,! Secretary of Embassy and Plciii- Bart 1 potentiary. Colonel Benson .... Commander of the Body CUianl. Lieutenant PAHisn . . . Commander of the Artillery. Doctor Gii-LAN .... A Scotch Physician. Doctor Scott A Kaval Surgeon. AcHESON Maxwell, Esq. Private Secretary. John Baruow, Esq. . . Comptroller of the Household. ^ ,^ I A Scotch Philosopiier and Expe- Doctor DiNWIDDIE . . .1 • . T X ( nmentalist. Mr. IIicKEY A Portrait Painter. Mr. Alexander .... A Drauj^htsman. ^ ^ , ^^ (Two Missionaries brouj^ht from Domini Lee and Ivo . .•( .i i> i t^- i ^ tvt i I the Propaganda Fide at Naiilev Mr. George Staunton j Mr. Crewe [ a *♦ i ' * *i i? i ,, TT T) > Attaches to the iMnbassy. Mr. Henry Baring . . •' Mr. AViuDEB ) -- .... (A German Gentleman, Tutor lu Mr. IluTTNER 1 Tvr t;. * ( Mr. Staunton. Two Meciianics. Guards and Servants. The character and talents of Sir George Staiint are too well established to require being dwelt up froin wWcli tivit}' At ni sion ■■.. M [Chai'. 1! fcx. I. EMBASSY TO CHINA. 47 t more agree led with iiioi; 3 might liav; 'ospect of en i its populoit Tsuade mysd jrtune. 'ed, in urjiiii. md in makiii, jr's suite, wli ^'agers. Tin.- issy and Plciil- Body Guard. Artillery. 1 Household, iher and Expe- brought ficiiii Fide at Naples. nibassy. lemaii, Tutor eorge Stauut' iing dwelt iifi l^re. As Secretary of Embassy and Plenipoten- ^ry, he carried out, moreover, a commission to sicceed as ambassador in the event of anything l»ppening to Lord Macartney, or of his early return l^me. Sir George had been of infinite service to his llprdship, when Governor of Madras ; and such was tl^ value he set on his abilities, that on the present cS^asion he made it a sine qua non of having Sir George Siaunton to accompany him in the above capacities, nld on the specified contingent condition. m3 Colonel Benson was a smart, correct, and active olBccr, v/ell known to Lord Macartney, and selected by him. Lieut. Parish, of the artillery, was a good officer and an excellent draughtsman in the engineer dipartinent, as his drawings of a section and view of tlie (jlreat Wall of China and other subjects will testify, tbough generally they were taken by stealth. On his return to England, he Mas appointed aide-de-camp to the INLiicpiis Cornwallis, as Governor-General of India, fell overboard on the passage out, and was drowned. sPoctor Gillan was a good scholar, a physician, and, ni|ri.'Over, a Scotch metaphysician ; he was selected as a fit })crson to be attached to an embassy like the pre- seat, and as a gentleman well calculated to bring home viUuable information on all subjects of science and phy- sios connected with China. But, in point of fact, his acquirements were rendered nearly unavailing, partly from indolence of habit occasioned l)y indifferent health, which rendered him incapable of nmch energy or ac- tivity : a single instance may serve to exemplify this. At my request Lord Macartney had obtained permis- sion from our attendant Mandarins, that I should be allowed to land, whenever I thought proper, from the I'tt I . i 48 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [CllAl.,1, SXOT. I. barge which conveyed Dr. Gillaii and myself, to enalil me to walk to a reasonable distance along the baiil of the Grand Canal, a permission subsequently ej tended generally. One beautiful morning, in traversin, through an interesting part of the country, I endiii voured to prevail on my fellow-traveller to step d shore for once, and walk down to the next station. II had a book in his hand — Virgil. " My dear Barrow, said I le Doctor, " I have just got to that intcrcj ing passage where ^neas and Dido take refuge in ti cave from a violent storm ; how can I break off at m a stirring part ol' the story, and leave the Tyii comrades and Trojan youth seeking for cover from tl pelting storm, just tit the moment when ' .yieUimi Dido dux et Trojanus candaiii deveniunt ? ' " Tl Doctor, I believe, intended to be a little waggish. li supplied a few remarks, however, on the chemistry a: medicine of the Chinese, and some other desultu: subjects, for Sir George Staunton's volume. Doctor Scott had been a surgeon in the Navy, k read a great deal and talked much more. He had tl tilled himself for the present occasion, by studying tl false light, Isaac Vosshis, and by getting almost heart the production of jNIr. Pauw, a philosopher Berlin, who compiled a work of considerable abilir but in many respects not of nmch authority. lie u one of those writers, who derive pleasure in swi ming against the stream. Dr. Scott contributed i thing, that I am aware of, towards elucidating t; manners, customs, character, or general knowledge the Chinese. Achcson Maxwell, Esq., had been private set; tary to Lord Macartney in India, and being now tKe s{i difpoi regar( ii^lli aj^oii Audit iMr fiye 01 takcc. in ore to the Lord sionall a^r 1 house o^iinl wikcd C(Amtri ii«Cl retin- ir. conn I pBlntc'( itiras eilcuf in ton • %, from plaht, before grou}) sons (I [CiiAi..i: iAi\ to enali ig the baiil equently t\ , in traversiii, try, I enciea r to step (; , station. II ear Barrow, that intorc; refuge in tl iok off at siK e the Tyi'it jover froii! tl :11 ' ,^j/t'lunoi \unt?'" Tl waggish, li chemistry a; ther desultui lie. the Navv, k . He had H y studying tl ing ahnost philosopher ierable abilir ority. lie v asure in s^vi: contributed r elucidating t: 1 knowledgo private set; I being now EMUASSY TO CIIIXA. 49 i|| same situation, had no opportunity, had he been so dijfposed, of gaining information to any great extent rigarding the Chinese. Being a steady, sedulous, and Hilelligcnt gentleman, he received on our return an aipointment as Inspector of Public Accounts in the illldit-office. |]yir. Barrow, as comptroller of the hous(;hold, r/^-'-'-jd fijj^ or six weeks at the pnlacc of Yuen-min-Yuen, to t||^e charge of the valuable presents, and to see them put ili| order by the two mechanics, to be presented there |the Em])eror, on his return from Tartary, where Ird ^lacartney had his audience. Mr. Barrow occa- siibally rode from Yuen-min-Yueu to Pekin, to look r the pro])erty of the embassy, left in the large s(? ap})ropriated to the vVmbassador and suite in the ital ; and on the homeward journey to Canton he ked several hundred miles through the heart of the imntry, and publisbed a large quarto volume regard- China, of more than GOO pager., ten years after his UMi to England. )Ay. Ilickey, an indifferent portrait-painter, was a btryniaii of Lord Macartney, whose })ortrait he had ited ; and being now out of employ, his Lordship, ras said, took him out of compassion ; I believe he kuted nothing whatever while on the embassy, but in%onversation be was a shrewd, clever man. %/\\'. Alexander drew beautifidly and faithfully in wirtf r-i ulours, and omitted nothing that was Chinese, frotti the human face and figure, down to the humblest plant, and so true were his delineations, that nothing before or since could be compared with them. The groups of boats and vessels, with the multitude of per- son of both sexes, that were introduced into the j)ano- E ^'.>1 50 EARL OF MACARTNEYS [ClIAIV raina of IIoii^-Kong, were taken from drawings of ^I Alexander, whieh my son lent to Mr. Barker for tli ])nrpose. On liis return to England, the trusteos • the British Museum appointed Mr. Alexander to f!; superintendence of the department of prints and (irii- ings, in which unfortunately he did not long surviv His loss was severely felt and lamented. Doctor Dinwiddle was a Scotch philosopher, huti what school I know not; he was also called an exjia mentalist, and expected to instruct the Chinese in di tricity and in flying balloons, but it all ended in sniol; On our return, he requested to be discharged and se to Calcutta, where he meant to deliver lectures, a: Lord Macartney very kindly made him a present oft the mathematical and philosophical instruments tli were not left in China. The novelty took, in Calcut; and Dinwiddie is said to have made a little fbrtune. The two Chinese interpreters had been sought i and brought from the College JJe Propaganda Fid' Naples by Sir George Staunton, and one of them, L proved an useful and intelligent man. The other, K was a blunt, dull, and dogged person, of little use the embassy, and likely to be of still less in his m\m Happening one day to have in my hand a Latin cu; of the 'Common Book of Prayer,' I gave it open Ko, who, after looking at it a minute or two, threw down with violence on the floor, exclaiming " Ei<f U- diahoUcus." They were both left in China. Mr. Staunton, though very young, made great ]ir gress in the Chinese language, in which he had aftt wards an opportunity of perfecting himself, by an i pointmcnt in the Company's factory of Canton, which he became the chief; and he has public [Cii.vr •awings of )1 !iarker for tli ;he trustees Qxander to tl ints and dra t long surviv iOsopher, but tiled an oxpa Jliinesc in il ndcd in smot larged and sc lY lectures, a; a present of j istrunients tli ok, in Cak'ut; ittle fortune, jeen sought t Kujanda Fid \c of tbeni, L The other, K , of little use ;s in his niissii nd a Latin en: gave it open or two, threw •ect. I.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. r,i I'. ' r iniing u hina. nade great pr h he had atV niself, by an ir ' of Canton, ,e has ])ul)lis!' leveral volumes and tracts, chiefly on the language of (Phina, besides a curious and valuable treatise on the kiws of China, the whole of which he translated into Bnglish. Mv. Iliittner, his tutor, was a good classical scholar, And soon after the return of the embassy was appointed interpreter to the Foreign Office, a situation which he Mill retains. ]\[r. Baring also received an appointment to the fac- tory of Canton, came home, after a time married, and jsides with his family at Cromer Hall, in a very in- ifferent state of health. Mr. Winder, a young man who had been educated at Prinity College, Dublin, a distant connexion of Lord [acartnev, and was entered on the list as assistant wcretary, but without anything to do and with very Ifttle to occupy his attention. He obtained, on his return home, some civil situation in Ireland, and died shortly afterwards. Mr. Crewe (I believe, a subaltern in the army), a ybung gentleman hanging loose on society and a fre- <|iienter of the gaming-table, was the son of the cele- hfated wit and beauty of her day — so beautiful, indeed, tkat Matlame d'Arblay says "she 'Uijlijies everything near her." Admired by George Prince of Wales, and adored by Charles Fox, she became the standing toast of the Whigs, was consecrated as their patroness by the Prince of Wales, who, on some great occasion, gave as alfoast — 4 " Buff and Blue, I And Mrs. Crewe." Mrs. Crewe was also a great favourite of Lord IMacart- ney ; and she being most desirous of removing her '■■in ■'..».' KAKI. OK MACAKTNKYS Lt-'llAl'. II, son out of the temptations of London, earnestly on. treated Ids lordship to take him to China. "The oiilv eondition," said his lordship, " on which I can possililv allow Inm to go is a most solemn pledge, on his honour, that he will not touch either cards or dice or other in- struments of gandding, either on hoard shij) or at ;niv place where we may stop." He gave the ])ledg(' ami hroke it — lost to one of the lieutenants of the ' Lion,' r was said, some thousand ])()un(ls, not Jiny part of wliid could he pay; and it was also said he had compomiddi the debt for an annuity of as many handred ])oun(ls,i. he had lost thousands. I\Iy cahin on the passage hoiii was on the lower deck, and scarcely a night passed i which I was not disturbed hy the rattling of dice, c hy Mr. Crewe's scra])ing on the hass-viol. lie was most gentlemanly, good-natured young man, and w;: urged on hy an old Scotch lieutenant, who ought i have known better. Mr. Crewe succeeded his fatln: who had been created a baron in 1812, and died i 1835. Before the end)assy left iMigland, it was generali understood that great })a ins had been taken in tlics lection of the gentlemen who had the good fortniii' be included in the suite of the and/assador. The hri description I ha' here given of them does not exacti c()rres})()nd with such a notion ; but I believe hur Macartney had, in soiue respects, to listen to the goiitr of Leadenhall Street. If I except the able and iiit resting account of the proceedings and result of tl British end)assy to the court of the Emperor of Cliii; by the late Sir George Staunton, (the vigour of wIk intellect was not more remarkable than the liberality his sentiments,) nothing of a scientific, jdiysical, etliie. eiia ton of ha I Wi fro I mil to Oli the an I eanu'stly cii- "The only call jM)ssilily I) his lumour, c or otlitr ill- lij) or at any ic pledge ami tlio ' Lioii,'r part of Nvliid I ('()iuj)ouii(l(i: red jKMindsa. |);issage lioiii' i|ji;lit passed i ig- of dicj', (■ (d. He was man, and ua >vlio ouj;lit t dod his fatlu: 2, and died i : was gcncnili aken in the > «:;ood fortuiU' ' dor. The liiT loos not exact, I helieve Lw ten to the lieiit: ! ahle and iiit id result of tl iiperor of Cliii vigour of will' I the liberality physical, etlm "m IkcT.I.l liMHASSY TO CHINA. ,7.1 or etlniic.-d character appeared I'roni any of them. When, incU'cd, it was understood that Sir (ieor^i; Btiumton liad undertaken it, any other work would llave heen a suju'rerogation. In fact, he alone, who lad cognizance of all that was or was intended to he transacted, and the rea.sons thereof) could liave done justice; to the suhject. - 1 thought so then and thiidv so still, yet ten years after ihe return of the emhassy to J^iUghmd 1 was induced to writ(! and to ])ul)lish a volume, to show the view which I had taken of the great empire of China and its very extraordinary overtlood of po])ulation, hy drawing such a iketch of the manners, the state of society, the language, literature, and tine arts, the sciences and civil institu- tions, the religious worship and opinions, the ]){)pulation, tnd the j)r()gress in agriculture, the civil and moral character of the ])eo])le, as my own observations enabled me to do ; and the ])resent Sir Cieorge Staun- ton had the kindness to allow me to look over the mass of notes and observations, which J had put into the llH^nds of his father when emjdoyed on his 'Narrative.' 1|ii^ith these and my recollections on the passage home ftoni the Cape, I endeavoured to settle, in my own mind, the point of rank which China nuiy he considered ^ have attained in the scale of civilised nations. i Three years afler the publication of this work, and irteen after the return of the end)assy, I had permis- |bn to publish the manuscript journal of the Earl of iacartncy, entitled ' A Journey of an Embassy from |e King of Great Britain to the Emperor of China in tile Years 1792, 1793, and 1794.' It was annexed as ayQ appendix to my account of 'The Public Life ' of the ,. I "'i EAUL OF MACARTNEY'S [ClIAl-. II, ]^]arl of Macartney. The journal is exceedingly inte- resting, and details circmnstantially all that occurred on his introduction to the emperor at his palace ofGeliol, in Tartary, with his observations and reflections on tlie country and people, and on the events that took place on that occasion. That which I am now about to relate is chiefly Mlijit happened i;o uie individually, or in which I was per- sonaMy concerned, taken either from loose notes writkii fifty years ago, or from a recollection of particul;ir occurrences chiefly in Pekin, at the palace of Yuoii- niin-Yuen, and on (mr journey by the Grand Canal through the heart of the empire ; the whole affording to myself the most interesting episode in the history of a prolonged life. Section II. The Emha.'^fti/ proceeds in II.M.S. 'Lion' and the E.lJ Shij) ' Ilindostan,'' and jM.mmj throu(]h the Yellov Sea, disembarks on the Continent of China, at tk Mouth of the River Pei-ho. The ships appointed to carry out the ambassador ami suite were the ' Lion,' of 64 guns, under the command of Captain Sir Erasmus Gower, and the 'Ilindostaii Indiaman of 1300 or 1400 tons, commanded by Cap- tain Mackintosh, an old and highly respected officer of the East India Company. Two more suitable ami efficient commanders could not have been selected t LCiiAf. II, cdinsly into- t occurrodoii ace of Gcliol, actions on tlie at took place s chiefly ^\llat h I was })C'r- ! notes written of particular ace of Yuen- Grand Canal le affording? to le history of a |tCT. ll.J EMBASSY TO CHINA. 55 inil the E.IX. (]h the Yello" China, at tk inbassador and the comnKinil i • Iliiidostan inded by Cap- specteil officer e suitable and been selected ard each of them was personally known to the Am- bassador. The ' Lion,' with her officers, stores, presents, and large quantities of baggage, was so completely filled, that part of the suite were obliged, and I may say Relighted, to go in the roomy 'Iliiidostan;' they con- listed of Colonel Benson, Dr. Scott, Dr. Dimviddie, lind myself; and most comfortable we were, being infi- l|itely better accommodated than were any of our col- kagucs in the 'Lion.' We left Portsmouth on the 26th of September, 1792; had a quick and pleasant passage to Madeira, where the ' Lion ' anchored in the Bay of Funchal, an open and dangerous roadstead — as Mackintosh, on a former occasion, had been taught bv fetal experience, his ship having been wrecked, and every soul having perished, himself and cook only exce})tcd, who being on shore escaped the melancholy fete of their companions. Pass we on to the island of Teneriffe, a ])leasant sail of four days from Madeira. The town of Santa Cruz, on the eastern side, aftbrds but little that is inviting. The town of Oratava, on the opposite side, is much the tame ; but the Peak is a majestic object, up which we ' ri|craiiibled as far as to the base of tlie cone, when a. vio- lent storm of thunder and lightning, with torrents of l^in, drove us down again. Our next halting-place |ras the miserable Porta Praya, in the island of St. [ago; and, passing thence to the Brazil coast, we )encd out and entered the magniticent bay or inlet of lio de Janeiro, unequalled, I believe, for its splendid #id variegated scenery, by any other of a similar kind in any part of the world. •I* ■'.>.' ' \' 5(5 EAUL OF MACAKTNEY'S [CUAP. U, We passed the curious island of Tristan da Cuiiha, M'itliout landing, and gave a good berth to the Cape of Good Hope, making the best of our way to the curious volcan.ic island of Amsterdam, whose large crater unites with the sea by a passage over a pebbly beach. From hence we reached and passed through tli( Strait of Sunda, and, by the Thousand Islands, came tn Batavia, and here enjoyed the gaieties and the luxurious living of the Dutch. But, that which was of more im- portance to us was, that while here the And^assaddr received a dispatch from Canton, announcing tli agreeable intelligence that his Imperial INIajesty oi China had issued a public edict, declaring his satisfactitii! at the approaching embassy, and directing that pilots should be stationed at every port on the coast of tin Yellow Sea to convey his Excellency and suite to Tiii:- sing, the nearest port to the capital, or to any otlur that should be found most convenient lor the Briti>!; ships. By this intelligence the embassy was relievii from the necessity of calling at Canton, which was nm: desirable on many accounts — among others, that of oli- viating a delay of eight or ten days. A dis})atch \ Sao COB Sei ( th^ riei thu Ian( hou islel aroi Mir T we J learr from but conj( addi eveni therefore sent to Canton to announce his Lordslii]i< j-jj^y ntention mosi of proceeding direct through the Strait to Chusan. sive e ii: tion It was deemed expedient, however, as it was littl nothing out of our way, to look into Turon Bay, Cochin-China, that being, as it were, a j)art ot| or in cIom Lord] connexion with, the Chinese empire, and the inhabitant- shawl being in all respects, exce])t less civilised, similar to tli f""*r Chinese. They, however, received us well, and wii! ea«teij great courtesy ; and here, having refreshed our sliii- upon direcll fi LCiiAi'. 11, an da Cunlia, the Cape of to the curious i crater uiiitc< each. through til- auds, came td the hixuvidib IS of more im- Auibassadur uouucing till Majesty i; his satistactidii iiig that pilots e coast of tlu suite to Tiei- [• to any otlui ibr the lh-iti>!; y was rehevi , vhich was i\m 2YS, that of oil- \. dispatch w;'- his Lordship- the Strait <: it was little o Turon Bay, i i-t oi', or ill cloN the inhabitant- ,, similar to tli well, and mIi! lied our sliii- II.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 57 companies, we proceeded to the entrance of the Yellow Sea.* Of the frequent storms an*! dangerous navigation of th6 Strait of Formosa we had an early proof; by expe- riencing a tremendous storm, accompanied by loud thunder and fierce lightning, in a pitch-dark night, no land on either side being visible for ten or twelve hours, and the brig, the ' Clarence,' in the midst of islets, rocks, and shoals, the sea high, and breaking all around ; so that we might almost have exclaimed with Miranda in the 'Tensest,' — " The sky, it secm'd, woviltl pour down stinking pitch, '^S ■^^"'^ '^'"^'' ^''^ ■'^*^"' "'"""'"'o ^^ ••''•^ welkin's ciieek, '^Hf Dasiied the fire out." The storm was, as the Chinese pilots told us, what we Europeans call a f>//>hoon, and which some of our learned antiquarians have fancied the Chinese derived from the Egyptian Typhoii, the genius of all evil ; but where or how they came by it, we are left to conjecture. The Chinese are the least, of all people, addicted to the borrowing of names, and too proud even to adopt a foreign word. In the present instance they are content with their own simple name, expres- sive of the fact — ta-fun<), a "great wind." • So mucli has been written concerning the most extensive and populous empire of Ciiina, and so much real and valuable informa- tion gained by the two British embassies of Lord IMaeartney and Lord Amiierst, to wliicli I Iiave already contributed my hiunljle shaif ; and so mucii new matter is constantly pouring in upon us sinot) the footing wo Iiave obtained, by conquest and negotiation, in ot among the nm.-t frequented conunercial stations along the eastern coast of the Yellow Sea, that little is left for me to dwell upon, but to confine my remarks chielly to mutters in which 1 was directly or indirectly personally concerned. • f ■'■A.' .• 58 EAKL OF MACAUT.NEY'S [ClIAI'. 1 Being on the poop of the ' Ilindostan ' with Capta; Mackintosh, I asked him if. in his several voyages t China, he had ever been in such a hurricane as w? then raging ? His reply was, " Yes, and ten tiiiii more severe. AVere it possible," he said, " to blow tt thousand trumpets and beat as many drums on t! forecastle of a ship like this in the heiglit of a ta-fu.u no sound would be heard of either by a j)erson on ti quarter-deck or on the poop of that ship." AVli any story of a marvellous kind was told, Mackiiitc: was wont to say, " Show me the book :" I asked lii jestingly, " Captain, would you put into a book \v!i you have just told me ? " Ilis answer was, " reiiia: not exactly in the same words." " No," said I, " I ;: sure you would make a great reduction in the muul- of youi" drums and trumpets." Having passed this strait, it was decided to dchv the brig ' Clarence '* for the port of Chusan ; and > George Staunton, Mr. Staunton, and myselfj with oin the Chinese interpreters embarked in her : the ' Lid: and 'Hiudostan' to M'ait outside of the archipelaiio islands, which are re})resented to consist of not K\v than three hundred, mostly small, aiiel many lit; better than naked rocks. Four passages lead into t! Skct. : as we nent H< point of be proac ship'^ eddy times taken was 1 woulc The] 120 f gandc usual) on th( overb verin racuh Th harbo ofthd them Ilk 11 n main harbour in the largest isLuid, of which we t' e westernmost, one shore being part of the cni, nent. We found the current to run with such wliirli: rapidity, so irregular, and the water so deep, tluit anchor would have been difficult, dangerous, and \( haps in a cahn impracticable. In fact, when aboiiM middle of the passage the wind did fail us, and ji: * Tliero liiui l)e('ii prepared two Ijrigs, the ' Claroiico ' iim' ' Jackal,' to atfeinl tlie ships throii^^h ihe Yellow Sea. ■•■ < [CiiAi'. i; ' with Capta; 3ral voyages t irricane as m; and ten tinn 1, " to blow t( drums on tl lit of a ta-fiu, a person on tl ship." AVli )ld, Mackiiiti' :" I asked lii; to a book w!; rorha: Shov. n.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 59 !■ 1 • U was, ' said I, "lii in the nuiul- cided to dtia ■husan ; all(l^ ,'self', with OIK jer : the ' Liii e archipelagn >ist of not t'o« md nianv lit; ;es lead into i ' which we t^ rt of the coi, ith such will I'll so deep, that igerous, and ]i , when about t fail us, and j ' Clarence ' ami' iw Sea. as we were close to a rocky promontory of the conti- nent called Kee-to Point. Here the current swept the ' Clarence ' towards the point with such rapidity, that we expected nothing short of being momentarily dashed to pieces ; but, on ap- proaching this perpendicular precipice within twice the ship's length, to our surprise and not less alarm, the eddy swept her round with great velocity three several times. An old Chinese fi?hernian, whom we had taken as pilot, gave us the consolation, that there was no danger, and that her distance from the rock would be increased after every whirl ; and so it was. The lead was thrown, but no bottom at the depth of 120 fathoms. The Chinese missionary of the Propa- ganda, whom we had taken to interpret, and who was usually less composed than his countryman, had indeed on lihe present occasion an escape from being thrown overboard by the boom of the mainsail, and in reco- vering himself exclaimed, " Sanctisshna Maria, eM mi- raculum ! " IThis is the only passage, on the south side, into the harbour of Chusan. On entering we were met by one of the large Chinese junks — as we are pleased to call them (from their proper name tchuau). An officer came on board to annoiuice that his vessel would pre- cede us, and point out the proper anchorage. He and two or three other officers were extremely civil, and preientcd us with a basket of fruit. The tchuaii led the way; and, clumsy as she appeared, with her stiif unbending bamboo sails, to the surprise of our seamen, they observed her sail quite as well as the smart-looking 'Clarence.' We anchored about the centre of a very spacious harbour, surrounded by the coast of the main It* 60 EARL OF MACAKTNEY'S [CiiAr.: island and others contiguous to it, so as to give to it circular shape, and the semblance of being conipkt. land-locked — as it aj)})cars from a sketch I took of from our centra] anchorage. Mandarins forthwith visited us ; and it was arraiii: that we should M'ait on the tsung-ping, or militavvi. vernor of Ting-hai, the chief city of Chusan, early ik morning. He was abundantly civil, received us in: hall of audience, and promised to have pilots ready; us ; presented us with tea, fruit, and cakes, and tall of plays, feasts, and entertainments ; and was rat! surprised at the haste we nuuiifested. The multitude of ships, several hundreds of diff ri kinds, that were lying at anchor before the scaji town, gave evidence of an extensive commercial inr course with Chusan; and yet, to our astonishment,: governor told us that the pilots for our ships could (c take us to the ports along the coast, as far as tbe i, province. This we said would not answer our })uij)i' and, moreover, that the Kmperor, in his public iiotih tion, had ordered pilots to be in readiness at Cluisah conduct the shij)s of the Ambassador to Tieiivi This produced a general nuister, from which was tn singled out every man who had ever been at Tieii->; Two only Avere found to answer the description, they had lefl the sea for many years, were comforta settled in trade, and begged on their knees they iiiL be excused. In vain, however, they pleaded the r; of their families, the Emperor's orders must be oIkv. the governor was inexorable, and they were orderoi embark in the course of an hour. Such an act ot'^ lence and injustice, ))alnful as it was to witness, cu hardly be re])roved, with consistency, by some of- Sect. nav£ take T the < by a lead] men the was facto static the( Tl desii to o poris islan< will have the of tei weall the their dispc takif] child if th for throi and tent had tp [fit, ^fi [Chak; LS to give to it )eiiig complete ;ch I took of it was arraiii; , or military s: lusan, early ik eceivecl us in ■ ! pilots ready ; akes, and tall and was rat! drcds of ditf'.'ii I tore the seaji •omniercial m istonishmeiit, : ■ ships could as far as the i, 5wer our ))urpi" is public notit' ness at Chusaii lor to Tieuvi 1 which was tn jeen at Tiell-^; ; description, were comforta knees they im. pleaded the i s must be obey y were ordorci. ich an act ot'^ s to witness, n ^, by some of ' Sect, n.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. Gl '• I ! nafal officers, who might in the course of service have taken part in similar scenes at home. The city of Ting-hai is from one to two miles from the coast before which the shipping lie. It is enclosed by a lofty wall of masonry, in which are several gates leading into streets of tolerable width ; the rest are mere alleys. About the year 1700 we had a factory in the suburb, close to the shore of the harbour, which was walled round, and from which the wives of the factors were excluded. We also obtained a commercial station at Ning-po ; but, at the end of some fifty years, the Chinese got rid of us from both. There is just now, however, in England, a craving desire to exchange Ilong Kong for Chusan — not merely to occupy Ting-hai or the suburb, or both, as em- poria for conunercial concerns, but to possess the whole island. It is to be hoped, however, that the Chinese wiU resolutely resist any such demand : indeed, they have done so, and succeeded. To a less jealous people, the possession of a spacious harbour and a large extent of territory, which from its position would overawe the wealthiest and most flourishing commercial cities in the empire — Ning-po, Ilang-clioo, and Foo-choo, with their numerous ports and suburbs — to say nothing of dirtiossessing or corrupting some 120,000 families, by taiing their lands, or converting themselves or their children into what they deem us — barbarians: and, if ttiese objections were overcome, we should create for yourselves an interminable hatred and jealousy thl^ghout the whole of this great empire. If wisdom and prudence govern our councils, we shall remain con- tend' with what conquest has given us. If, indeed, Ave had asked for Lan-tao or Liu-ting, instead of Ilong- •1,M U. ' ■'..*.' G2 EARL OF MACAUTNEY'S [<'iiAp. Sbct. Kong, as being larger, more calculated for a thrivi population, and half the distance from Canton, t should have acted more wisely. I have some reason to remember Chusan, thou. five-and-fifty years have elapsed since I was there ; ; for anything remarkable, except that I had my piL felt by a Chinese physician, and never since by ,1 medical nuin in China or elsewhere. Out of curi(i> I had partaken of a dish prepared by one of the Chin pilots from a mollusca {iiwdum porpita)^ whose tra: parent colourless jelly had rather an inviting appu ance. I had also eaten of some acid fruit jr.esoii; to us ; in consequence of the one or both, I was sii; with a most violent and excruciating pain in the ? mach, so bad that Sir George Staunton ordered • lieutenant, who commanded the ' Clarence,' to sen- boat on shore to inquire for some medical man, ; bring him off. A venerable Chinese physician iiif, his appearance, felt my pulse very carefully, and t our missionary that he would cure me : a person \v with him on shore, brought back a packet containi among other things, a large proportion of rhubarh, , after about twenty-four hours of severe suffering 1 myself again. When in course of conversation, in, years afterwards, I told Sir Henry Halford that, to : knowledge, I had never before this had my pulse t and certainly never since, he threw up his hands ; exclaimed, " AVhat would become of us if every t were like you !" The 'Clarence' having once more passed Kit Point, less whirled round than before, and got into: Yellow Sea, she rejoined our ships at anchor about f miles off. Some of the officers had made visit; sevei Foot of isl pries three temp that for ii Budl posse most havin going bourn on hi tish I which -he on hi capta tion I bably On his cc hend need] cular thec( sion. plicit it ap The terrec [<'llAV, SlO«<II. EMIUSSY TO CHINA. C3 cl for a thrivi 0111 Canton, i Chusan, thou, ^ was there; ; I had my pn r since by ;i Out of curid; le of the Cliii! ta), whose tra; inviting apjx, fruit y.eseii: oth, I was sii; pain in the < iton ordered • irence,' to sen iiedical man, ; physician m,; irefully, and \ le : a person u jacket contaiiii n of rhubarh, re suffering 1 )nversation, iii; alford that, to: ;iad my pulse t ip his hands r ' us if every i re passed Ku , and got into anchor about ; id made visit; several of th( islands, but to one in particuhir named Pootoo (Poo-ta-la), tlie Temple of Pudh. This group of islands is remarkable for the number of bonzes or prittts of that sect, said to amount to between two and three thousand, inhabiting as many hundred separate temples or pagodas. It would be well worth the while that some of our Chinese scholars — Sir John Davis, for instance — should pay a visit to this sanctuary of Budhism, and examine what records or legends they possess ; for the temples of all sects in China, or the most respectable, have libraries. Sir William Parker, haying landed on the Kin-shan or Golden Island, in going uj) the Yang-tse-Kiang, saw a most beautiful well- bound library in one of the temj)les, which he intended on bis return from Nankin to bring away for the Bri- tish Museum ; but on reconsidering the principle on whieh hostilities were conducted — to make no reprisals — he decided not to disturb it. He found, however, on his return, that the splendid library was gone, the captain of the French frigate, that followed our expedi- tion up the river, having carried it off, and it may pro- bably be now seen in the king's library of Paris. Cifce of our impressed pilots had come on board M'ithout his cjompass, and it was in vain to make him compre- hend ours with its moveable card, theirs being a simple needle about an inch in length, vibrating within a cir- culi^ cavity cut in a piece of wood, and so contrived that thef centre of gravity coincides with the centre of suspen- sion,5 On showing one to Ilamsden, he admired the sim- pliciliy and the efficiency of the contrivance, but thought it applicable only to very short and light needles. The Chinese originality of this instrument may be in- terried fi'om the nndtitude of circles on the wood that •ii" i.. t "■'ill ■ 1.1 04 KAKI. OF MACARTNEYS [Ciu 8ae contains it, cMiibracing their system of niytholo{>;y, tl cycles, constellations, their astronomical or astrold. science, the mystical characters of Fo-shee (Fo-hi), a in short, an abstract of all they profess to know on tl, snbjects. The one I brought home contains twc seven concentric circles. The name of their newL Tin^-nan-ching — the needle ])ointing to the i^oiith ; (Kang-hi) Kaunti-shee, who was in the habit of ( mitting his thoughts to })a|)er, thus writes: "II heard Europeans say that Vm\ needle ol)eys the n ■ In our oldest records it is said that it turns to the si The ancients are the first in date ; and the Ihrtli^ ])roceed the more I am convinced of their knowl('(b the mechanism and ()})erations of Nature. Morci as all action grows languid and is nearly sus})eii(K(: wards the north, it is less likely that the virtut', w. gives motion to the magnetic needle, should ])r(i( from that quarter." Kaung-shee was the al)li.-- tab^e Chinese emperors, but how could he reason but t: hogs what he knew? No Cook, no Weddell, no lio.v, overl then given him the benefit of their discoveries. clean On doubling the promontory of the ])r()vince ol'S' Tl tuing, the land became hidden in thick fogs ; i: with clearing a^ay, enabled us to see that we were w: ta-gii four miles of the coast. We had opened out, it sen and < the extensive gulf of Pe-tche-lee, and our j)ilotsl Pe-t( evidently ignorant of our situation, we took the mi cheei of the magistrate of Chusan — to navigate from por till i port — and at the port of Kee-sau-soo took two piln: gainc carry us to IMee-a-tou and to the city of Ten-tdioo- one the governor of which ])aid his res})ects to the An and sador on board the ' Lion,' and sent a triflini:', ;:• Fi called it, refreshment, consisting of four bullock.^;, ^ Pei-h she oil and lot sing I had ship us. and the] repo cour carr bullc kins, and ( "' 'IH [C11.H a«cT. n. KMHASSY TO CIIIXA. 6a inytholo^jy, tl al or iistrold, ;liec (Fo-hi), ,v to know on tli contains twc of tlu'ir U(.'wl! to the ftoutli ; he habit of ( writes : " I 1 obeys the in: tnrnsto the si and the i'artli. heir knowlcd'. atnre. Mom tirlv sns])en(lii; the virtne, \\\ 0, shonhl \)\> vas the abU-- reason but t: (k'll, no lid^-s scoverics. ' |)rovince ni'S thick fogs ; 1 lat we were \y: jned out, it sii: 1(1 our pilots! we took thv ;M vigate from pn o took two |)ii y of Ten-tclioi" pects to the Ai; nt a trilling,;' four bullocks, sheep, eight goats, five sacks of fine white rice, five sacks of red rice, 200 lbs. of flour, and several baskets of fruit and vegetables. He also suj)plied us with another ])ilot tO take the ships across the gulf of Pe-tche-lee to Tien- sing. In crossing this gulf with no land in sight, the water had shoaled to six fathoms ; an unusual situation for large ships to come to anchor in, but nothing else was left for us. Tbe land was from twelve to fifrcen miles distant, and so low as not to be visible from the deck. One of the brigs was despatched to the mouth of the Pei-ho to report our arrival. Here two superior officers from the court had already embarked to wait on the And)assador, carrying witb them refreshments which consisted of 20 bullocks, 100 hogs, 100 shee]), 1000 fowls, 3000 \^\\\\^\^- kinS| as many melons, apples, })ears, plums, apricots, and otlier fruits, with an abundance of culinary vege- tables, and wine in large eartben jars. INIany of the hogs and fowls had been bruised to death and thrown oveAoard, but the Chinese eagerly picked them up, cleaned, and salted them. I?ie names of these two officers were Van and Chou^ wi&^the addition to each oi ta-(/in (great man). Van- ta-gin was a soldier of the rank of lieutenant-general, and Chou-ta-gin a civilian, the governor of a district in Pe-tiChe-lee — two most amiable, well-conditioned, and che#ful men, wbo attended the embassy from this time till lis return to and departure from Canton— men who gainid the esteem and affectionate regard of every one-^ the embass^'•, having been ever ready to ])lease and to make ut all comfortable. Fifteen Chinese vessels having transported into the Pei-ho all that belonged to the embassy, our two great F :ii\ 66 EARL OF MACARTNEYS [^'"Ar,:; ships left the gulf without further delay, the ' Hi; dostau' for Chusan, there to remain for further order and the 'Lion' to Canton. Sfx'tion III. Nav!(/afion of tJie Pcl-Jio from its ^fol(fh to Tun- and thence to Ton<j-clioo, flu' Part of Pckin. ,V/( We were now fairly landed on the continent of Cliir embarked and moved on, as speedily as a thousa: men or nu)re could get our baggage, presents, and |i: visions into the barges provided to convey them itiid up the Pei-ho ; and we found them to 1)C spacious, \k, and connnodious. Each had a sitting-room jiml sleeping-room, with bed-places on the sides, a room: servants, and a kitchen. Thev arc sometimes sculi with a long oar, working on a pivot near the bow, ;: moved by four, five, or six men, who occasioiia land to track the barges. In sculling, the stroki accompanied with a rude air, in which all join, tl combining cheerfulness with regularity. These bar. each bore a flag with certain Chinese characters, avIi: as some of the missionaries told their correspondent" Europe, implied, "The English ambassador briii£ tribute to the Emperor of China." The ch;ir,T which these honest religionists translate into /// was ^, hitif/ (valuable), being compounded of r parts, the h'l/ at the top signifying art or worL shijy, and the other part rare, liighh/ estcemnl--: meaning of the character, therefore, may signify j cious thi)i(/s, and not tribute. With the exception of the two villages of Ta-Ii [CuAP.; krr. III! RMIUSSY TO (;niNA. (17 ^Y' the ' ir turtliev (ivdt (th to Tlcn-»\ of Pdlii. tincnt ot'Chir as a thousa: •esents, ami p: vcy them mid »e spacious, ik. uig-vooni ami sides, a room: )inetiines sciil! -ar the bow, a ,vho oceasioiia ig, the stroki Lib all join, ti ^ These liar. haracters, y\\\: correspondent- )assador briii-:! The chaiMi' slate into trl ipounded of ' aii or irorktii 'ih/ e-'^teemi'l-' may signify ] illages of Ta-1\ and Scc-Koo {(h'caf and Wist Koo) near the mouth of the river, scarcely any other (k'scrvin;^ the name a])- pearcii, fill we came to the very extensive city of Tien- lirj;', about ninety miles from the sea. The banks hitherto had been low ou either side, the surface of the country swampy, and covered with coarse grasses and nishc's; very little cultivation, and here and there only a straggling cottage of mean description ; now and then c hair-(b)zen of these might be seen together. AVe ire all struck with the general apj)earance of mean- ilips and poverty. Yet the vast nndtitudes of peo])le of both sexes, that crowded down to the banks of the rivser, as the barges glided along, were such as to com- mand attention, though the general style of their dress gaire no great indication of comfort ; but their num- bers ])roved the existence in the interior of ])lenty of itowns or villages, though hidden from our si|nht by .the sunken river and its high banks. On approaching Tien-sing, we had to pass along such nilnerous stacks of salt, i)iled up in sacks of matting, and ranged for miles on both banks of the river, that I was desirous of endeavouring to make some rough esti- mate of the cpiantity ; and if my data were at all cor- raat, the store of salt here stacked would sullice for tiiP' consumption of about thirty millions of people for a %h()le year, or, as Sir George Staunton caleulated, witti my notes, the weight would be about six hundred m|pions of ])ounds. 'U'hc nmltitudcs of peojde and the craft '-f various kl^s on both sides ofj and passing through, Tien- siii^ were so numerous that, with great difficulty and dehly, m-c were able to traverse the town in about three hours. The crowd was immense on the two F 2 ..- > If I ; ' »' 68 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [Chap. II. shores, in the shipping, and on the roofs of the houses; and it was a singular sight to observe such multitudes with their naked bronze-coloured heads broiling in the sun, and standing up to the middle in the water, all quiet and in perfect silence, exhibiting, as Mr. Davis said on a similar occasion, " a sea of shaven heads in a perfect calm." The population, whose constant residence appeared to be on the water, was also immense. On the river within the limits of the town, and above and below it, there could not be less than six hundred stationary and trading vessels, all built on the same plan and very much resembling each other. I boarded one, whieli had a range of ten, others I was told had twelve, dis- tinct sets of apartments, erected along the deck, each containing a whole family. The hold was also divided into ten parts, being one for each of the families located on deck, and laden with articles for the Pekin market. The number of traders and sailors in a vessel of t\w description could not be fewer than fifty, so that ot these alone the population would amount to thirty thousand ; and from what we^ observed of the craft on the upper part of the river, between Tien-sing aiul Tong-choo, mostly crowded with men, women, and children, I should conceive that the floating population on the Pei-ho, from its mouth to Tong-choo, the port of Pekin, could not be much under one hundred thou- sand souls. At Tong-choo we were lodged in a spacious temple, from which the priests were turned out without cere- mony to make room for us, consisting at least of a hundred persons. About three thousand porters were immediately supplied for carrying to the capital, twelve [Chap. II. le houses; multitudes ing in the water, all Mr. Davis heads in a B appeared the river 1 below it, ioiiary and 1 and verv )ne, M^hieli welve, dis- deck, each Iso divided lies located in market, ?sel of this so that ol to thirty le craft on n-sing and omen, and population ), the port idrcd thou- )us temple. hout ccrc- least of a )rters were ital, twelve ECT. IV.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 69 ilcs distant, the whole of the baggage belonging to the fmbassy. The plain between the ships and the temple |vas like a fair, and cakes, rice, tea, and fruit upon laasses of ice, were abundantly exposed for sale ; a flice of melon, so cooled, cost a tchen^ value about three- lenths of a farthing. I had been taught at Chusan, the expediency of var- ying my cot along with me, and here I found its utility ; r on turning down the sheet, in the temple, the first Ibject that caught my eye was an enormous scorpion. P^'he cot was forthwith removed from the temple, and luspendcd between two trees in the enclosed court- yard ; but the cicadas kept up such a loud and perpetual chirping the whole night as to prevent all possibility of lleep. The thermometer stood at 80°, and had been paring the day and in the shade at 88°. f Section I"V'. ifonrney from Tong-choo hy Land^ through Pekin; and % the Distribution of the Embassy to Gehol in Tar- % tan/, to the Palace of Yiien-7nin-yuc)i, and to one in 4 the Capital. tiiE distance from Tong-choo to the south-east gate of ekin is reckoned to be twelve miles. xVt five in the .|norning of the 21st of August, the procession moved Ibrward, more remarkable for the multitude and variety pf its component parts, than for the regularity of its irrangement or the brilliancy of its appearance. The Jiotley group consisted, in the first place, of a])out piree thousand porters, laden with six hundred pack- I. t "V:, rii; •1* ■ •.♦■' .4tl ' I 70 EAKL 01' MACARTNEYS) [CllAl', il. ages, some of them large and heavy enough to r(. quire thirty-two bearers; next to these were eighty. five waggons, accompanied by ihirty-nine hand-cart? of one wheel (>ach, laden with wine, porter, aiii various eatables, together with anununition for ciuh field pieces, which closed this })art of the \)yo(\> sion.* Next to these was the Tartar legate, with t!:. officers of the court, and their numerous attendant-, some on horseback, some in chairs, and others on ino'; and after them followed the A ndiassador's guai'd i Maggons; the servants, musicians, and mechanics ;;!■ in waggons; the Ambassador, the ^linister Pleiii;i. tentiarv, his son, and one of the interpreters foilowd!, in four ornamented chau's, the gentlemen of the siii;: chiefly on horseback, tlie remainder in small covoi:: carriages on two wheels ; and last of all, the two offic i. Yan and Chou, with their attendants, closed tli;- motley procession. At the halfway-house we had breakfast provided, of roast pork and venison, \vi;! several made dishes, eggs, tea, milk, and a vanetyi: fruits served u}) on cakes of ice. The public road, constructed of large slabs of graiiiii very ill laid, with deep ruts between them, and tin surfaces corroded into holes, was but little adapted t the ease and comfort of those passengers, whose fati' : Avas to be conveyed in small cramped carts, witlim: springs and with no seat within ; so that the occupant > reduced to the necessity of sitting on his hauiichu and of enduring the perpetual jolting of his miseralil, vehicle. Mr. Davis, who, on Lord Andierst's suddtii departure homewards, had exchanged his horse for on * Tliost! (k.'tiiiLs are taken iiuin my note bouk, tlie luatt'iu being under my cliarye. pagi)(i marl li0ll^ be}ii a|)])ei Oi tllirf' bas( due p»ra held south [CuAl', noiigh to n- were elghtv- 10 hand-cart- porter, aii^i ion for ciglit the })rooes. fite, witli til; IS tittcndauK tliers on foot; )r's guard i lechanics iil. ster rieiii|:(!. 'tcrs fblloMi;!, ■!i of the m\:<: =;iuall cover; lie two oft]' li , ch)-';c(l t!!'.' ise we bad venison, wii il a Nai'ictV': al)S of graiiiii em, and tin;: c adapted t: , whose fate';' carts, witliii,; lie occupant :• his hauiiclii;. ' his niiseralil. herst's suddi:; i horse for on. ik, lli(j iiiatc'iij.' :t. n-,1 EMBASSY TO CHINA. 71 of these carts, says, " I had ahundant reason to regret tibc choice, for the convulsive throes of this primitive machine without springs, on the ruined granite road, jroduced an effect little short of lingering death ; and lite only remedy was to get out as ofleu as possible, and walk." To those M'ho had made choice of such mi.-tiable machines, nothing but the novelty of the teene could have made them tolerable. Crowds of na- tive spectators lined the sides of the road, on horseback, on foot, in springless carts, in waggons, and in chairs, all a})p;irently in the greatest good humour, expressed 1^ smiles and grins, and exclamations of delight. Car- ried in chairs were numbers of Chinese ladies, but the piuze curtains at the sides and front kept them mostly #om oiir view; many well-looking Tartar ladies, how- ler, in their silken robes, were less scrupulous in per- mitting us to witness their charms. The only objects of art that attracted notice, on this pihlic road leading to the capital, were a temple or IJagoda of the usual kind, and, near it, a bridge of w hite Jiarhle, with balustrades bearing sculptured figures of IIdiis and other animals of the same material. A little l)e}ond these the walls and the lofty gate of the capital ftippeared in view. On approaching them, we found the walls to be about Airty feet in height, flanked with scjuare towers at bow- she! distance, perhaps about seventy yards apart; the bast of the wall was about twenty-five feet thick, re- diic d by the slope to twelve feet at the top within the ||ira})et ; the middle part of the wall being of earth, Wd together by two retaining walls of blue brick, il^t'Tspersed here and there with blocks of granite. The south-cast gate, through which we entered, is sur- I EAUL OF MACARTNEYS [t'liAr. II, mounted by a lofty tower of several tiers of port-liok;, closed v'itli painted red doors, a})})earing not unlike tK shani-])orts in the side of a ship of war. A second gati encloses a space of ground surrounded by buildiii;:: a})propriated to military j)urposes, as the depot for pro- i;^bi visions ;nid annnunition, and barracks for the men, tlii oupp!^ whole l)"ing meant as a phtce (l\n'iiu's. On this sidcc •^dtf, the city there are three such gates, and on each of tl; band? other three sides t^\o, from which Pekin is sometiiii. Tart<i called the Cit>/ of Xlne Oak's* vi^etj In })assing from the south-eastern to the nurti. ^i^Ioi M'cstcrn gates of Pekin, I shall merely notice the objoc' fwrtiui that met the eye along this route. The first street : ^td c wide and straight ; the line of buildings on each sii; of it were sho})S and warehonses, mostly with ojk fronts, and in or belore which were displayed ew possible variety of wares for sale ; among other , tides coffins for the dead, splendidly gilt and orn mented, were most numerons and made the greate show, equalled only by the brilliant disjday of fund i biers and marriage-cars, with their highly decorati its ]> canopies of sky-blue or bright green with gold devici- app< which were really handsome. Similar decorations ;ii aflj^ Hags were placed before the several houses, exhibit!!, ite >\ that it n«tth-^ The passot the thr< two long lines of waving colours, of different shajN displaying every variety of tint. Independent of the valuable wares and mercbaiuli- iDOJpi'i" thus arrayed in front of the houses, a multitude i '^^^ses. moveable workshops of tinkers and barbers, ofcobbkr »■ str and blacksmiths, together with tents and booths, wlur "aj wa tea and rice and fruit with various kinds of eataldt' h(^es, * I had many oi)portuiiities of passiti;:; and ropa.ssing the noii: western gate, and (Iiey are all on the same i)lan. ibo x0t [CllAP. f port-liok-, ot unlike till . second gatt by Imildiii';! oput for jivii- the men, tli: u this sidu i: 1 each of tl is souietiiiu :) the nurt'r ce the ohjcc' first street : on each siil ly with ojK splayed (j\' )iig other ' ilt and orii;;' the greatc- av of fun( r-i hly decorati goUl devicf ecorations ;ii , ses, exlii!)it!!: itferent shapt d nierchamli- niultitudc I M-s, ofeobbki booths, wlia ds of eatal)k' massing tlie noii: EMUASSY TO CillNA. 73 jj^rc to be sold, had contracted the street, spacious as as, to a narrow road in the middle, scarcely w^de lough to allow two little carts to pass each other: jl|t, within this narrow space were processions bearing iglibrcllas, flags, and painted lanterns — trains carrying ■"pses to their graves with lamentable cries — others ;h scpialling nuisic conducting brides to their hus- ds — troops of dromedaries laden with coals from rtary — wheelbarrows and hand-carts stuffed with etnbles; and if to these be added, numbers of jjplers with their packs, jugglers and conjurers and unc-.-tellers, musicians and comedians, mountebanks, qnack-doetors — Avith all these impediments, so room was left for the persons of the embassy, it was nearly three hours before we reached the h-westeni gate. ^hc great street, we had thus with some difficulty ed through, leads directly to the eastern wall of unpcrial palace, that forms one side of that ugh whicli we had next to pass. This wall, with bur sides, encloses all the buildings and gardens rtaining to the imi)erial residence in the capital, isof itself a remarkable object, being covered along liole extent wi^h a yellow roof, of a deep and bril- ;t colour, and so highly varnished as to look like gold. Turning to the riglit, we had on one side the ilBf trial wall, and on the otlier a range of private holses. On a second turn fo the left, at the end of this st'.eet, we had now the northern sjd" of the impe- rial wall also on our left, and on the right were private houses, without any display in fro/it, and with very little bustle in this part of the Tartarian city. Altoat the centre of this northern side of the palace '.« ' 74 EAHL OF MACAKTNEYVS [CiiAi'.:: wall are three gates, or rather a treble gate, bifo; which we halted, with an intention perhaj)S to nih us a glance through them of the inij)erial gardei;. consisting of a large space of ground, which, we c(iil observe, was artificially laid out in hills and vnlkv the one being thrown up by the materials taken fn the other, and some of the excavations su})plie(l \v: water, in which were small islands with light buildii;. upon them ; and the hills were covered with groups trees or large shrubs. Proceeding to rhe north-west we passed a dou' gate, similar to that through which we had entered, i: a little overjoyed on finding ourselves once more ii] a flagged causeway, bad as it was, and in an oj country, having first ])assed a small suburb beyond r gate. We were conducted to a villa said to beloiii; the Emperor, about eight miles from the capital, t taining a number of small and mean detacbed tipi- mcnts, scattered over a surface of groiuid of vl fifteen acres, all of them miserably out of repair, ;iiiil so dirty and ruinous a condition as to be totally iiii habitable. The ofiiccrs Van and Cbou were im; diately desired to notify to the officers of the couii, ;! these were not acconunodations suitable to the diiiii of a British Ambassador, who had, however, alni: communicated his deterniinati(jn to ha\e notliiii: , do with them, and had insisted upon his innntd: , removal to Pekin. The })eremptory decision \v;i.v . mediately responded to; and it was announced tli; j suitable house in Pekin was ready for his Kxcellcii' , reception. ^ On returning to tha capitnl, the j)remises were tiii to be large enough, but the numerous apartments g [CiiAi'.;: \ gate, bi'fo; u\ps to afioi L'vial giirik'!,' liic'h, wc con: s and valkv: lis taken fro supplied wi; li^-lit buililiii. ^vith groups isscd a doiil' ad entered, r. nee more u] \d in an (ij: url) beyond t: lid to belonL' le eapital, r ^letaelied apf: ound of 'ch' )t' repair, and be totally \wc on were iinr: f the eoui'i, i Ic to tlie diar (iwever, aln.;: ia\e noibiiii: 1 bis inuiKt!. :k'eision w;- nnounced tin his Exeellcii' iiises were tin s apartments em. IV.] EMIJASSY TO CHINA. 75 '>.. 1 • shamefully dirty and wholly unfurnished ; in other respects it was said to be one of the best that Pekin aftjrded. Tt was built, it seems, by a hopoo, or col- lier of customs at Canton, thence preferred to the same situation at Tien-sing, where, for his roguery in eijibez/liug the revenues, he was thrown into gaol, and his ])r()perty confiscated. Our conductors told us, that on })r()})osing this house to the Emperor for the use of th^ Ih-itish Ambassador, the good old gentleman re- dlfed, " ]\Iost certainly ; you cannot refuse the tem- polrarv occupation of a house to the Ambassador of that nation, which contributed so very largely towards this expense of building it." It was in fact a Chinese ace, Jt consisted of a large space of ground divided into several courts, with detached buihliugs on the sides, aini artificial rocks crowned with stunted trees rising out of basins of water. Its whole a})pearance, however, waa, to an English taste, destitute of everything like coavtiiience or cojnfort; which happened to be of less importance, as it was speedily announced, that the Em- pcflpor wished the introduction of the Ambassador should take place at Gehol, in Tartary, about 110 miles from Pekiii ; that such of the presents as were most valuable and'iu' least bulky should be })resented there; and that the hu'ge and valuable mechanical aud scientific instru- m«it- should be fitted up in the great hall of audience at Yir n-min-Yuen, for the Emperor's inspection at his retui'H : and now my charge began to be serious. To prepire for this, Dr. Dinwiddle and myself, with our two liicchanics, had apartments allotted to us in the palac: of Yuen-min-Yuen, and the remainder of the suite, not intended for Tartary, were to be left in Pekin. •■■-If m '..•> iiP 76 EARL OF MACAUTNEYS [CiiAr.l Having picked up some little knowledge of tl spoken language (difficult only in catching the com tone of pronunciation) on the passage from Eniila: and since our arrival in China, by the assistance ofc. two Chinese Catholic priests, and also from our attei ant mandarins and the bargemen, 1 was less annoy at this temporary banishment, more especially as t: principal officers of the establishment of Ynen-in; Yuen were directed to grant me unconditional Icav whenever I should find it necessary or ])r()pcr, to ;;• the capital, where the mass of our property reniaiii and also to afford me the means of doing so ; and i- but justice to say, that a horse or one of the sn covered carts was always at my disposal. From ; Chinese servants who were granted to me, and thei merous mandarins and workmen appointed to arrai. the presents, I extended the little knowledge I had y. viously acquired of their language. On my first arrival at this palace, I found Cliiiii workmen busily employed in breaking open the pai ages, to my no small alarm for the globes, clocks, 'A lustres, and other frangil)le articles, the danger to wl;: I considered to be inevitable, as indeed it would k been if entrusted to less carefi.l and dexterous ha: than those of Chinese, of which I had already cxp'' ence. On the conveyance of these valuable artickf the great audience-hall I had the satisfaction to f. that not a single article was either missing or injure; After having positively rejected a set of mean npr ments, and very dirty withal, I succeeded in obtain; some that were larger and jnore decent, whi<li attending mandarin took care to tell jne belontidi one of the piinisters of state. A gentleman now in;: rei n dire* to inqui i .^aclj for the g ;cli up in pirine •i'JIl [ClIAP.l 'ledge of tl 11 g the com from Eniik sistance ofo'. )ni our Jittei.: less annoy. peeially as t: of Yuen-m; ditional kir proper, to vi: lerty remaiiit ig so ; and i; e of the sii! ;al. From ; lie, and thii ited to arrai, edge I hadp: found ChiiK open the pai es, clocks, dc langer tf) \vl! it would li:: :lexterous ha: already cxp' Lialde artiek- isfaction to f g or injun: t of mean np' led in obtaiir. •cut, whicli ' me belonjidi eman now k' t. IV.] EMHASSY TO CHINA. 77 1 . 1 Bed himself to me, whom, though in a Chinese dress, miediately perceived to be a European. lie spoke tin, said his name was Deodato, a Neapolitan mis- lary, ordered by the court to act as interpreter ; he bred his best services, and hoped he might prove ^ful to us : and it is due to him to say that, during a weeks' residence here, I received from him the Iflist friendly and unremitting attention. Signor lato was an excellent mechanic, and, in that capa- f, was of great value in keeping in order the nuine- pieces of clockwork, previously here assembled, ring foimd their way from London via Canton. \) make amends for the sliabby kind of apartments, bidered good enough, however, for a minister of Itc, we sat down to an excellent dinner, consisting of reat variety of dishes neatly dressed and served up jorcelain bowls. The best soup I ever tasted any- jre was here, made from an extract of beefj seasoned a })reparation of soy and other ingredients. Some nicelli we found delicate, and all the pastry, made the flour of buck-wheat, was unusually light and Ite as snow. Our fruit was iced, and it appeared in the neighbourhood of the capital ice is within tBjf reach of the poorest peasant. An old eunuch, who seemed to be the guardian and «L'tor-general of the palace, by his interference and isitiveness, was the only cause of interruption to the UDipa( king and distribution of the valuable instruments for the Emperor; but I soon put a stop to his med- tg in matters that did not belong to him and of ["li lie knew nothing. As soon as we got them set up ill the hall of audience, visitors of all ranks, from p'/int s of the blood to the lower class of mandarins -, 'l!!i '.<* 1 78 EARL OF MACAUTNEY S fCm; and plain citizens, came daily to look at the presti and principally at the English tribute-hcarcr,% -svlion, helieve, they considered as the greatest of the ciiii tics. Among the visitors came, one day in 1:1 state, the pre^sident of the trilnmal of mathematics;, conipanicd hy Govea, a rortuguese missionary a titular hishop of Tekin ; also Padre Antonio and : secretary — all three members of this learned trihii: Their object was to make themselves acqu.iii; with the iiature and use of the astronomical iii>: ments, and more especially of the grand planctnrii in order that they might be able to give a cor? description and explanation to His Imperial jMaji- and to afford proper answers to such questions as mi. be asked. From the few questions that were put by the piv dent of this learned body respecting the planetarium, seemed that the only conception he had of it m as, •: in the principle of its construction it was similar toi of those curious pieces of musical mechanism (oiilv a larger scale) which in the Canton jargon are cal' sinr/sonf/s ; and that it was only necessary to wind it like a jack, to set it a-going when it would tell him he wanted to know. The bishop and his com])a!i; appeared by their questions to be little superior in 1 thematical and astronomical science to the preside This gentleman, however, was apparently of a mild; placid temper, pleasing in his manners, and of a iiioi; and unassuming deportment. His secretary m- keen, sharp fellow, very inquisitive, and wrote (It the answer to every question proposed. Next dav: bishop came unattended by any of the Chinese w( hers of the board ; and I learned from him that au0»iv atfUou' loHig ri«feg and hi saUcrs thilai dians ( thit wi a^oloj difecfi( board. thite i acqLiaii cakida I,|ink I llfls i Tlie objects ti<m foil for, tlie seats, and th fitt0(U( sitioii, and (I th€fedis afffietio that vat^d s then I S»pl)( 1^ 'Tl fCiiAr.: it the prcsii 'art'rs, 'vvlioiii, of the cmi day ill p. lathcmatics, , iiissioiiavv a; ntoiiio and i earned trihur v'cs ac([U)iii: inomical iibt: lid plaiictnrii; I give a cciir ipcrial jMajt' estions as mi: )ut by the ]iiv plaiietariiua id of it uas, tl as siiniUiv toi haiiisin (only irgon are cal' iry to wind it' ould tell liiiii his conijiani : superior i;i i to the prc'sii^ tly of a iiiildf , and of a iim secretary v; and wrote d' I. Next (lay le Chinese m- om him that IV.] EM15ASSY TO CHINA. 79 noinical part of the national almanac, such as calcu- X the eclipses, the times of new and full moon, the g- and setting of the sun, &c., Avere entrusted to him his colleagues; and he admitted that their calcida- were much assisted and facilitated by the Connols- 'i's (Je 71';/^'>f, which they regularly received ; and from and by knowing the precise difference of the ineri- diliis of Paris and Pekin, they were enabled to give all was necessary for the Chinese to know : that the logical part of the almanac was entirely under the iction of the Chines(! president and members of the d. He admitted, however, that there were two or e intelligent Chinese, who had made themselves tainted with the princi[)les on which eclipses arc minted. IIow oilen, when among these jieople, did ink of my poor old friend Gibson, and how much s indebted to him ! he two elegant carriages made by Ilatchett were icts of great admiration ; but it was a puzzling ques- for the Chinese to decide, which part was intended the Emperor's seat? — the neat and commodious 1, with their cushions inside, with the windows the blinds, and every part within, were elegantly 1 for the reception of none but the mon:;rci ; but 1 ([uestion arose, who was to occupy the elevated po- stl^n, with its splendid hammer-cloth, edged with gold anji decorated with festoons of roses ? To determine th%dispnted point, the old eunuch, who had a particular affection for the carriages, applied to me, and when told the Emperor's place was within, and that the ele- seat was for the man that drove the horses — with snal ejaculation of surprise, hal-yal he asked me if I SBlDposed the ta-whaini-tee would suffer any man to sit .,',.!' •M , ! ■ '..*. ' o II 'II m V<.\^'S> ▼'^O, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I !f ilM IIIIIM 2.2 '- 1^ lllll It? m ^ 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" — ► v] <^ /] ^^^ . ^w / '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M5B0 (716)873-4503 ^.^' 80 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [Chap.I above him, and to turn his back upon him ? " That,"; said, "will never do," and asked, if the splendid coat box could not be substituted for the seat within the (i riage or placed behind it ? The Emperor, however, it seems, never once troulj himself about these carriages, if we are to credit t Dutch account ; for it is reported by them, who speed followed us to Pekin, that they found them strippt'! all the ornamental parts, and bundled into an ouiho'. behind a parcel of dirty carts. I had some difficulty in explaining to the mandar; the names, titles, and offices of a collection of portrar which Lord Macartney had presented to the Empt: at Gehol, and which his majesty had despatched Yuen-min-Yuen, to be translated into the Mantit and Chinese languages. We got over the names pre ? well ; that of the Duke of Marlborough being writ: down Too-ke Ma-rd-jw-loo ; of Bedford Pe-te-fo-ul-te,i but the portrait of the latter, having been taken in i boyhood, when I desired the Chinese secretary to vr him down as a ta-gin^ or great man of the second oril he immediately said, " I suppose you mean his fttt | was a ta-gin." I explained to him that with us iieiti age, nor superior talents, nor great acquirements, v necessary to obtain the appellation of ta-gin^ to ui;: many of our legislators were entitled by birth : lie i exclaimed hai-ya I laughed heartily at the idea o! man being born a legislator, when so many years close application were required, to enable one of tii countrymen to pass his examination even, for the vt lowest order of state-officers. But as the Emperor t confer a sort of nominal rank on the descendants of fucius, but not such as to entitle to office, emolument. "•1 t I "! •• •- "fli [Chap.| Jkct. IV.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. «1 splendid coat , within tue a er once troiill •e to credit!; :m, who speed: chem strippt'l into an ouihoi the mandaf ;tion of portrai; to the Emper d despatched the Mantck the names pvtr igh being writ: '^e-te-/o-ul-te,i been taken iiu lecretary to vr the second ori mean his fati it with us iieiti jquirements, w- ; )f ta-^m, to^^l'^ by birth : Im '■ at the idea ol so many ycaij able one of tli even, for the vt the Emperovt ascendants ofCt ice, emolument. exclusive privilege, they agreed to put down his Grace IS one of that description, positively refusing to give liin the title of ta-gm, alleging that the Emperor was lot so stupid as to believe, that a little boy could hav« jlttained the rank of a gi^eat man. On the 14th of September, three days before the Imperor's birth-day. Padre Anselmo came to tell me Jiat he feared all was not right at Gehol ; that the Tartar legate had been degraded from his rank for de- Living the Emperor, and for not having paid his personal aspects to the Ambassador on board ship, when in Tien- roads; that his peacock's feather had been ex- langcd for a crow's tail ; and that regard for his age id his family alone had saved him from banishment, lie Emperor, it seems, having heard that the Ambas- idor's portrait was suspended in the cabin of the ' Lion,' skcd the legate if it was like him, when it came out jat he had never been near the ' Lion,' as his order Irocted him, but had reported that it had been obeyed. Two days after this, on going to the hall of audience, I fund the doors shut, and the old eunuch walking about in I sullen a mood that he would not speak to me. Groups ' officers were assembled in the court-yard, all looking if something very dreadful either had happened or was but to happen. Nobody would speak to me, nor could get any explanation of this extraordinary conduct ; |ough I concluded it could be no other than the result [a temporary anger of the old Emperor, for thedecep- kn that had been practised on him. At length my 3nd Deodato made his appearance, with a counte- ice not less woeful than those of the government leers. I asked him what had occurred ? His answer "We are all lost, ruined, and undone. Lord G ••' ■ * '\\ ■t ,1 I m I't. « ■; V •;,*•' 82 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [Cha". II. Macartney has refused to comply with the ceremony of Tirostrating himself nine times before the Emperor, unless a Chinese officer, of equal rank with himself, shall go through the same ceremony before the portrait of his Bri- tannic Majesty ; or, that his Lordship's proposal, wliitii he had now to offer, should be accepted — namely, tlia: he himself would perform the same ccremojiy of respect to his Imperial Majesty, which he is required to do tolii« own sovereign. And Deodato observed that whatcvw might be thought of this at Gchol, the great officers oi. state, in the tribunal of rites and ceremonies in Peki;:, were, he knew, outrageous, perplexed, and alarmed; i: short, that it could not be conceived what might i the consequences of allowing an ancient custom to l, broken through, and a new one, of a barbarous natioi. to be adopted in lieu of it. But Deodato was, niort over, fearful that the ill effects of it might extend to li own class. The only visible result ui)on us at Yuen-min-Yue; was the abridgment of our table in the number ai:: quality of the dishes — the usual mode amon^^ t!; Chinese of manifesting their displeasure. Somethiri of the same kind, it appeared, had taken place at Golia from the time that the Ambassador began to demur i the ceremony, and to offer conditions, attem})ts \n: made to starve him into compliance by an abridgiiu: of his table ; finding thac to fail, they had recourse ; an opposite plan, and became full of liberality, kin. ness, and complaisance. On the 2ist of September the Ambassador returik to Pekin, and notice was issued that, on the 30tii, tt Emperor would inspect the presents at Yuen-min-Yut; They were all perfectly ready, and I was not a litt [ClIA'\ II. li;<T. I v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 83 ceremony of nperor, unles iself, shall go rait of his Bii roposal, whicli -namely, tliat ony of respect ■ed to do to hi; that whatcMi 'eat officers 0!. >nies in Pekii!, d alarmed ; i: ,hat might '* , custom to It rbarous natioi. ato was, niort' it extend to t fuen-min-Yiie be number ai »de amonii t!: re. Soniethii;; place at Geliu ran to demur! attemi)ts wei an abridgiiu: bad recourse ; liberality, kiiic assador returik on the 30th, tl Yuen-min-\ut; was not a liti jclighted at the idea of turning them over tc the Chinese. This was the day fixed for his intended re- irn, and it was notified to the Ambassador, that it was usual compliment for all public officers to meet him the road ten or twelve miles from the capital, id that 't would be so considered, if his Excel- siicy and suite would join in the ceremony. There ras nothing unreasonable In this, and accordingly the irhole suite were mounted and arrived on the ground Ibout six in the morning. This road was newly made |br the occasion, beautifully rolled smooth and level, Irc'll watered, and on each side were, at intervals |lf about fifty yards, triangles of poles erected, from rhich were suspended painted lanterns. On the mar- gins of the road, as far as the eye could reach, were ij^ousands of state-officers in habits of ceremony — Tartar ifroops in their holiday-dresses — standard-bearers with- * t number — military music and household officers ing the two sides of the road. The approach of the iUiperor was announced by a blast of trumpets, fol- )wed by softer music ; and the description, in an icient and hallowed record, is so strikingly similar to le one in question as to be here appropriately ap- llied : " And at that time, when all the people heard le sound of the cornet, flutes, harps, sackbut, psaltery, 1(1 all kinds of music, then the princes, the governors, id captains, the judges, the treasurers, the counsellors, le sheriff's, and all the rulers of the provinces that [ere gathered together, fell down and worshipped " — ive and except, it may be added, certain strangers who [ere present and obstinately resolved to do no greater )iiiage to any sovereign, than that which is required their own, and who contented themselves by volun- g2 ■ -^'.'n f^\ •II iM . i- ' . •■ ' 84 EAllL OF MACARTNEY'S [Chai.. II tarily bending one knee to the ground, as the Emperot of China passed by. Seated in a clumsy state-chariot, his Majesty bowed very graciously to the Ambassador as he passed, and sent a message to say that, understanding he was not well, he advised him to return immediately to Pokiii, and not to stop at Yuen-min-Yuen, as had been ii|. tended and arranged on leaving Gehol. The following day, the 1st of October, the Empcior attended by a Tartar officer, inspected the pr^j^ents i: the hall of audience, and examined many of them inoiv attentively than I could have imagined. lie desim the Tartar prince to tell us, through Deodato, that tlit accounts he had received of our good conduct at Yueii' min-Yuen had given him great pleasure ; and tiiat li^ had ordered a present to l)e made to each of us, asi proof of his entire satisfaction. The present consisttc of rolls of silk, and pieces of silver cast in the form c a Tartar shoe, each being about an ounce in wci^ili' They were delivered by the old eunuch, who wished t exact from us the usual prostrations, even after tlk Emperor had departed ; but I only laughed at hini and asked him where the bamboos were kept ; he under stood me, gave a grin and a growl, and walked aMay I thought it right, however, to desire Deodato to « plain to the Tartar prince, who remained, that we lia; no objection to do as the Ambassador had done at Gdnil and which had been repeated by us on meeting Jk Emperor; and he immediately said that nothing iiior was required : accordingly, on receiving the presents, w each placed one knee on the lowest step leading to tt throne. I told Lord Macartney what we had done, ai: he said it was perfectly correct. i;.:ll ii,,. [Chai'. ktcT. IV.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 85 1 ' the Kuiperoi lajesty boMed e passed, and g he was iioi ;ely to Pokiii, had been iii' the Emiuior he presents i!: of the in inoiv . He desire )dato, that tlk iduet at Yueii' 'd ; and tiiat lit ich of us, as: esent eonsistw in the form k nee in wcigli-. who wished t iven after tb ughed at liini, ept ; he under walked away Deodato to a d, that we liac done at Gehdi m meeting ili^ it nothing mot: the presents, \v. p leading to tli [) had done, an. In the course of our remaining here, I walked a great leal over the park, and made a rough estimate of its ^xtent — including the gardens and pleasure-grounds of '^uen-niin-Yuen — as occupying a space of nine or ten liles in diameter, or about sixty thousand acres. Of lose parts contiguous to the palace, which may be sup- )o.sed the most carefully cultivated, and the numerous )avilions and ornamental buildings in the best order, can say nothing in praise; no care whatever ap- )eared to be taken of any, nor regard had to cleanli- R'ss. The general appearance of the surface, broken jito hill and dale, and diversified M'ith wood and iwii, bore some resemblance to Richmond Park, nth the addition of large sheets of water, generally Covered with a blue water-lily — the Nymphea nelumbo [or nelumbium ?) — a favourite flowering plant with ic Chinese, and possessing something of a sacred inractcT. I saw none of those extravagant beauties ind picturesque embellishments which Sir AVilliam chambers has given of Chinese gardening; nothing of le kind appeared within the scope of my rambles, Hiich, however, close to the palace, were mostly made stealth ; for the old eunuch and his gang were con- Inually on 'be watch to prevent us going beyond the )undary of the audience hall. One day, on strolling nvards a large pavilion within s. garden, I heard the fd monster screaming and running after nie, '''■ Nea-gin, m-f/ln, poo hao I " — ^Voinen, women, not good ! Not [ishing to take any notice, I turned my back upon the Idios, and strolled in an opposite direction. The only room worth noticing is the hall of audience, licli stands alone at the head of a large court-yard ; dimensions within are, length 1 10 feet, breadth 42, Ml I. I . ;■■)" •i ,1 ,' •if' I 1 ': !'. ■ •,,« .' •■■i \> 86 EAKL OF MACAHTNEY'S [Chai>. 1!, and height 20 ; the ceiling painted with a variety of colours, in circles, squares, and polygons, whinisicallv disposed. The throne, placed in a recess, is entirtlv of wood resembling mahogany, and beautifully carved, A few porcelain vases, a pair of kettle-drnms, a fk volumes of manuscripts, and an old E^nglish chimiicv- clock, with the name of Clarke, Leadenhall Street, which the 'Id eunuch had the impudeiice to tell me was made by a Chinese, constituted the chief pirt of the visible furniture. A few wretched attempts a: sculpture, and some bronze figures, were here and then seen in the courts, the objects fanciful, distorted, ami entirely out of nature. The park and garden at Gehol, called Van-clni- yeuen — or garden of ten thousand trees — which tlu Emperor gave directions to the first minister should lit shown to Lord Macartney, appears by his Lordship'; description to be very different from, and much siipi' rior to, Yuen-min-Yuen. lie was conducted over t!it whole park, and has given a detailed and aniniaUi description of the endless beauties that met his i'Mjuii- ing eye. He says, — ■ " It would be an endless task were I to attempts detail of all the wonders of this charming place. Theiv is no beauty of distribution, no feature of amenity, in reach of fancy, M'hich embellishes our pleasure-grouiid^ in England, that is not to be found here. Had Chiiu been accessible to Mr. Browne or Mr. Hamilton, I should have sworn they had drawn their happiest ideS' from the rich sources which I have tasted this day; for, in the course of a few hours, I have enjoyed such viciv situdes of rural delight, as I did not conceive could li felt out of England, being at different moments ei. ' ». [Chap. II, 1 a variety of , whimsically 5, is entirely i fully carved, dninis, a few lish chimney- snhall Street, ce to tell iiic le chief part [1 attempts a: lere and then distorted, ami led Van-chi"- '^ s — which till ster should It his Lordship'; d much siipi' icted over ih and aniinatiii net his i-H|\iir- I to attempts ; place. Theit of amenity, m leasure-grouni 2. Had Chilli r. Hamilton, ! • happiest ith* d this day; for lyed such vici> iceive could lit t moments ei> 1. JV. EMJJASSY TO CHINA. b7 t., ' . 1 ' ii ihaiitcd by scenes perfectly similar to those I had known lore — to the magnificence of Stowe, the sofler beauties ^f Woburn, and the fairy-land of Paine's Hill." * From a covered pavilion, situated on an elevated immit, commanding a vast extent, his Lordship " The radius of the horizon I should suppose to be least twerty miles from the cjntral spot where vvc tood ; and certainly, so rich, so various, so beautiful, sublime a prospect my eyes had never beheld. I iw everything before mo as on an illuminated map — blaccs, pagodas, towns, villages, farm-houses, plains, Ind valleys watered by innumerable streams, hills mving with woods, and meadows covered with cattle If the most beautiful marks and colours. All seemed be nearly at mv feet, and that a step would convey ie within reach of them." And he adds, " If any lace in England can be said, in any respect, to have hnilar features to the western park, which I have seen lis day, it is Lowther Hall, in Westmoreland, which I'lieii I knew it many years ago) from the extent of rospect, the grand surrounding objects, the noble [tuation, the diversity of surface, the extensive woods, id command of water, 1 thought might be rendered, a man of sense, spirit, and taste, the finest scene in \(i British dominions."! Having learned at Yuen-min-Yuen that preparations 3re making by the officers of government for our de- irture, I rode over to Pekin to give Lord Macartney [formation of what was occurring ; and, being himself gsirous of having the day fixed for this purpose, he fespatched a note to the first minister, who returned an * Lord Macartney's MS. Jouriial. f Ibid. ;■,;■'. •'V,'i fh "K.; I ■ m h •'li r!|J' ^i ' '•■■< I, 1 88 EAKL OF MACAUTNEY'S [t'llAl'. answer by the Tartar legate, to inform him that, ii order to prevent any likelihood of being surprised 1/, the approaching bad weather, the Emperor had naiim the 7th instant (O.'tober) for the commencement oftk journey; and had issued his orders that every hoiiou: and distinction should be paid to the embassy on tlit road. ^ SeCTIOx\ V. Leave Ymii-m'm- Yuen and Pekln, on a Journey to (ju.- ton, by the Grand Canal, by various River.s, and I Land, conijjrmng a Distance of 2\celve to Thirh, Hundred Miles. Having now carefully examined and seen that all tli valuable presents for the Emperor were properly ])lact: and gone over the catalogue with Deodato, in prcscm of the old eunuch aiid an officer belonging tothepahut 1 gave notice to our small party to be ready tli following morning to depart for Pekin. The kii. Deodato called on me to take leave, and thus gave n. the opportunity of expressing to him, how nmch I fc indebted for his valuable assistance, and for the cl stant and friendly attention I had experienced at li hands. He was a gentleman well deserving a liif.4: and more desirable situation than that in which li: destiny had placed him ; but he said that, so long f he gave satisfaction to his employers at home, and ws treated respectfully by the Chinese authorities, he w not disposed to comjdain. He was a highly-gifted ai an amiable man. i^ Lt'llAl'. II him that, ii surprised k •or had nanitii iccnient oftk every hmm. iinbassy on tlit T. \'.] liMHASSY TO CHINA. 89 ^ourney to Cm- Rlver.s, and ' Ive to Thiih' ten that all tl, iroperly \)\imK ito, in prc'siiii: ig to the palaet be ready tl in. The kii. d thus gave ii, low much I L lid for the tni. erienced at li erving a liif.4: it in which b ;hat, so loiijrfc home, and u thorities, lie wi ighly-gifled aii; On arriving at our hotel in Pekin, the Ambassador d the whole of his suite (except Mr. Maxwell and ni}>;<-lf)j the soldiers, servants, and musicians left ijfekiii about two hours alter oiu- joining; some of llein on horses, others in the country carriages, form- ilg a sort of procession, before which a Chinese officer on horseback took the lead, having the letter of the J[rnperor of China to the King of England slung across his shoulders, in a case covered with yellow 'silk. As soon as we had settled our final accounts with the Chinese officers and servants attached to our hotel, r. lilaxwell and I, in the evening of the 7th of Octo- ir, rode through the streets of Tekin for the last time. e were quite alone, not a single Chinese servant, soldier, or officer to conduct us; but I had no difficulty ia linding the way to and from our hotel to the broad sto'eets, through which we had before passed, and along l|iich we now proceeded without the least molestation, Of indeed, 1 may say, without the least notice. The aberence between the appearance of the streets of ilekiii and of London is very striking; in the former tlfe crowds of the day retire in the evening to eat ti|eir rice, and, following the example of their great J^i])eror, go to bed with the setting sun ; in the n|Dniiiig, when the day begins to dawn, the buzz and iie Ijustle of the populace is like that of a swarm of bjies : just the reverse is that of our streets and popula- n, more especially in the early part of the mouiing, en London is a perfect desert. The late Admiral Sir iger Curtis was in the habit of mounting his horse, on iner mornings at three o'clock, to ride through the erted streets of London, when, he said, their geo- phy, and the plans and elevations of the buildings, '. 1 f • . •« ,t • fi ■ • '■ t i ¥ ^\ !)0 KAKJ, OK MACAKTM'V'S I Cm aj)j)('.'nv(l at owi'v to the; eye iinohstnictcd by the imilt tildes of tlic day. At cifilit in llic ('V('llill^• the nahsi; l\'kiii arc sliiit, and the keys sent to llu; ^ONdiin: When Lord Amlierst and liis parly ajjproaclicd tli, soutli-castcrn fjate, it was shut, and liis Lordsliip jm the ^vhole ol' his suite were oldi^cd to travel a iiwy- part of the ni;^ht outside the walls, over a most dcto: ahle road, and only arrived at their destination tlutl lowiuj;' inornin;;' at daylijiht. We had not much time to spare to save us lin: heiiif? locked within the city walls; and it was at .1 la hour that we joined the ri'st ol' the party in the siibiir oi' T()U};-ch()o-1()o, where wv. were once more loda amon^- the gods of the nation, in a spacious t(iii|il- whose j)riests are so accustomed to give way to i: oflicers of state, as to resign to us also tlu; tenipoiar use of their apartments without a nnu'inur. Once im: w<; found here so many scorpions and scolojxiulr witliin doors, and such myriads of mos(piitoes witlit' incessant noise ol' the chirping cicadas without, ;i> defy all attempts to sleej), when the more noisy v:>:. summoned the holy men to their nu)rning devotii and us to prej)are for our end)arkation on the I'd-lic Wc found the river now much more shallow, aiult harges proportionahly smaller, than on our ascent ol: hut thev were very commodious: and those wort: oflicers Van and Chou had taken care that no ox]k! should he spared to make our journey as j)leasaiit :i: comfortable as the nature of the country peniiittu Having observed that we were in the habit of ik milk to our tea, they had purchased two line (O in full milk, and prepared a yacht for their vm tion, to alford us a supply of that article. Wluiicvi t L I by the mult;. iiH' the M^ahsi tlu! m)vt'riio; jiproaclicd tl liordsliip III: travfl a ;;n;!- ji most (Ictoi iiiutioii tlic t. I SclVC lis i'lK it WHS at a la: ' ill tlu; siiliur! L' iiiori' Itidi't. pacioiis tciiiji iv(! >vay to il till! teiniH)r;ir in*. Oiu'c iiHf 11(1 Ki'olojxiulr, (juitoos witliti s without, as lore noisy in:. iMiiiip; (levotiii:. on tiic I'ci-lid. shaUow, audi our ascent (it: n\ those wurtt tliiit no ospiu r as jiloasant ai luitry iKTiiiittft ic habit of usi: II two lint' to. tor their nic icle. AVht'iRVi KMHASSY TO (^JIINA. Ul had to pass near the residence of a chief officer, an tcrtainineiit wJis prepared, and in order to make it ^rc acceptable served uj), as they thoiiKht, in the Kng- style ; so tliat we ha<l hogs roasted wln.h;, (piarters inntton, geese, ducks, and fowls the same ; a mode ookery altogether differing from the practice of the iiitry, which is that of stewing small morsels of meat |li greens or rice, and rich sauces, ^t 'i'i(!ii-sing, however, our chief conductor, Snn-t(t- liad prepared a sumptuous entertainment, consisting lexcellciit mutton, pork, venison, and jMrnltry of all ids, together with a great variety of confectionary, Scliis, plums, grajM's, chesnuts, and walnuts. Our iiified chief allowed us to walk on shore as much as jjieased, but cautioned us not to go far fr(>m tluj iks, for fear of retarding the yachts or being left iiiid — liinting at tin; same time that Van and Chou lid be held resp()nsil)le for any accident that might M})en while under the protection of the Eni[)eror. .t some distance from the city, and bordering on tlie ^r, was observed an extensive burying-ground, orna- ited with weejiing willows and cypresses interspersed aabiig the tombs. In a corner of this cemetery was a slWkll teinjile, with an altar in the centre, and before it I noticed an elderly lady busily employed in drawing the sticks of fate, but she missed the fortunate number, ring the shaking of the cup her countenance ex- ised much eagerness and anxiety, and her manner layed a peevish and muttering tone on leaving the )le, which made me think we had disturbed her in [midst of her devotions. The keeper, one of the rior priests, being asked by our interpreter what her ;t was, said, " Nothing less than to draw for a 1 ' * I I !1 • • •. .' ': t !•■ I ■ H 92 EAUL OF MACAKTNEY'S [CiiAi'.rl favourable chance of being blessed with a second liu; band, the hope of which had been demolished bytt decree of fate." These fatalists are the lowest of the three classes r priesthood in China, said to have existed from the tiit of Confucius, under the name of Tao-tse, a sect i: vented by one Lao-keun — impostors who pretend ; deal in magic, to possess the elixir of long life, audi tell fortunes — in all of which they appear to have pleii; of custom from the lower classes. The doctrine It them by their founder is truly Epicurean — to li^ e lia: pily is the chief end of man — to take no concern abn this life — to eat, to drink, and to sleep are the giv blessings of life — and to subdue every passion of tl mind that interferes with self-enjoyment. When with much delay and difficulty we had c through the crowds of shipping at Tien-sing, anio., , which were said to be about five hundred of the Et peror's revenue-vessels with grain for the capital, i turned into the Eu-ho or Yun-ieang-ho (the corn-bcair river), which flows from the westward and falls in the Per- ho just below the city of Tien-sing, sitiiatt partly .bove the point of confluence and partly Id' it, thus partaking the benefit of the two rivers. T' country through which the Eu-ho flows is pcrftit level, yet the river runs with such a rapid stream : to require eig:hteen or twenty trackers to each yad We travelled slowly, and towns, villages, and cifk-m surrounded by walls higher than the roofs of t: houses, were consta? tly in sight. The country Avort pleasing and cheerful aspect; it was harvest-time, ai v^heat, buck-wheat, and various kinds of millet wc under the reapers' hands. Several cotton plantatic nr l^asj i'i . ..'.< ' [CllAl'.L'; a second \m dished bytt iree classes r from the tirt tse, a sect i; 10 pretend ; ng life, and! to have pleiir 3 doctrine k \ — to livek- : concern aba are the gre ^ passion of tl • Ity we had s en-sing, aniu. ;d of the li the capital, V ;he corn-bean and falls iir n-sing, situatt id partly 1 tV' ,vo rivers. It >ws is perfect: rapid stream ^ to each yatl iges, and citit ! roofs of t country wok arvest-tinu", ai of millet wc ►tton plantatio: CT. v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 93 3re observed witli the pods well formed, but not yet )e. The usual ceremonies of the full moon delayed us inie time. The noisy gong, the harsh squalling lusic, and the fireworks were continued through the Ight, and ceased only with the appearance of the sun. addition to these noises of gongs, trumpets, and ickers, our ears were frequently assailed by the cries persons under the punishment of the bamboo or lip, for claiming exemption from the service of track- the barges. When brought together in the morning, [was impossible not to regard these poor people with eye of pity, I A favourable breeze brought us speedily into the )vince of Shan-tung at a place called Lin-tsin, where Grand Canal joins its waters to the Eu-ho, into »ich it flows with a gentle current, the bed of the kr being consequently on a lower level than that of canal, which appears to have been cut down in a [ping direction from the highest point of land where river Luen-ho joins from the eastward. The pro- tor would seem to have taken this summit level for commencement of his undertakii:g, by which he had advantage of obtaining two opposite currents, the flowing towards the Eu-ho, the other towards the lang-ho, or Yellow River, and of procuring a supply rater for both branches by means of the Luen-ho ing made to strike against the western stone bank of canal by which its stream becomes divided, and north and south, 'licse two currents thus flownig in opposite directions, lired some manf.gement to make the canal navigable )ugh both arms, on either of which, if lefl simply as Iras, the crafl could oidv be floate<l down the current »,H s\ (■,11 ' « ; .' •'■• t 1 1 94 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [<'ii.u'.i: one way. To remedy this defect he caused groovtst be cut in the projecting stone piers of the banks, cor tracting the width of the canal at certain distances, fi; planks to slide in, and thus form so many dams, and ak a succession of tranquil basins. To regulate and keepu; a proper supply of water, openings are made in the t« banks of the canal, at the most suitable places, accorc ing to the nature of the surface of the country, to kt i; or out such a quantity of water, as the deticieiicvi redundancy may require. At the junction of the Grand Canal with the Eul is the city of Lin-tsin, and near it a tall pagoda oiWt or nine stories. These buildings are not of frequt occurrence in China ; they appertain exclusively to tl Budhists, the second in repu ition of the three sie Their doctrine is derived from the Hindus : tlit founder, Budh or Fo, was one of the avatars of VisliL. was expelled by the Brahmins, and he and his follows spread their doctrines through Siam, Pegu, Thibet, ii: a great part of Tartary, whence it proceeded to Clii; They have a story, that when Budh withdrew hiiii> from among the living, they burned his body l placed the ashes of his bones in eight vases or iir: and having built a pyramid of eight stories, dt; sited an urn in each story. Their common exdaii tion, O-me-to-fo I is written up in gilt letters in nioi! their temples. We found no impediment or stoppage the «ii way. A sufficient number of men are stationed every dam to hoist up the planks, by windlasst>, soon as the barges intending to pass are collected cli | to the dams : and the navigation of the canal was pleasant and agreeable as could be wished. The bat generally swarmed with people of all classes, cliif: •<i ■'•i't' [('iiAi'.i; ■ ied grooves t le banks, cod distances, fij^ lams, and ak te and keepii, ide in the ti places, accon; mtry, to Icti; J deficiency i: ivitli the Eul pagoda of ek' ict of frequi: clusively to tl he three see Hindus : tlit itars of Vii«liii. nd his follow gu, Thibet, a. ceded to Ciii:. thdrcw hiiiii. his body f. vases or iiri ; stories, dep mnion exclaii.: itters in most page the \vlr ire stationed y windlasses, e collected d le canal ^va^ led. The bai classes, chif. r.V.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 9-i ssantry, when not in the neighbourhood of some ^, which was of daily occurrence. The province of intuu^', m the vicinity of the canal, was observed on jtJi bauKS to be well cultivated. I walked through feral large fields of the cotton-plant; the full-grown o])eniiig pods exhibited the wool beautifully white. [ought among the several beds for the yellow tinged jich we call nankin^ but found none ; and was told an intelligent farmer that it grew plentifully in mgnan. The wheat here had been cut, but three jfbur species of millet were very luxuriant; I ob- Ved they were all planted in rows, and single- nnied, as if they had been dibbled. In the swampy [unds rice was the chief culture: the cyperus and the rpus flourished in the dividing ditches. The musk water melon, pumpkins, cucumbers, onions, and ic, and the pai-tsai or white herb, were abundant \v the farm-houses. Clumps of trees, more particu- ly large elms, willows, and ash, appeared only near pagodas or temples, the cemeteries, and the officers' ises. )n descending from the summit level of the canal at m-ho to the south, we reached what appeared to be ist extent of swampy ground or marshy country, in i\\ was situated a city named Tse-ning, and near it :e, of the same name, of considerable extent : and found that, from this to the proximity of the Yellow ler, the v/hole surface of the country, on both sides, sisted of lakes and canals, and stagnant rivers, which [should call ditches. Small villages and isolated ds were visible on every elevation lefib free from [watery element. Boats innumerable were mostly Woyed in fishing, in all the various ways in which j-i 1 * ... ■/ M ■. vt • .;» :l ;h m •;,*.' 96 EAUL OF MACARTNEY'S K-IMP. the finny tribe are caught, and among others bv tl!i fishing-pelican. We were now running parallel with, and at no grt; distance from, the Yellow River; and the nature oftl country, through which its waters were carried into ti Yellow Sea, was a sufficient indication that the lalxi and expense, as well as the perpetual source of terror: the natives, were no exaggerations ; and that the aiixie on the part of the government was to obviate, ns i as possible, the threatened destruction of millions acres, and with them of no less a number of luin; beings, by the overwhelming irruptions of this ini;:i river which so frequently take place. On a ncarei c proach to it, the current of the canal, on account of: entire level of the country, had altogether ceased. In one place the projectors of the canal had ^y,. rently deviated from the direct line, to obtain an i mediate communication with an extensive lake, t. object of which was, as we soon found, to give fu : canal the advantage of a large bay, for the accoiiiiiiin, tion of shipping requiring to pass and repass its iiio!i at the point of junction with the Yellow River, i the western bank they had caused to be erected ;ur a portion of the said lake a long causeway, on st arches, which answered the double purpose of a t boat-passage between the canal and the lake, and ; that of a firm road for the trackers em})loved in tn ing the barges on the canal. The vast surface ofw; and of swampy ground, with which we had for ^ days been surrounded on all sides, had a sensible til on the temperature of the air ; the thernioiii! towards the end of October, having descended in mornings and evenings to 39° and 40°. ■ others bvti and at no grt; le nature ofti carried intoti that the lal)oi irce of terror: that the aiixic ohviate, nsi I of millions inber of hum ; of this milli- on a nearer c n account of!; tier ceased, canal had aji; obtain an i: jnsive lake, t: d, to give to ;; the accomiiiiA repass its iiioii: How River, ( )e erected acr seway, on si: airpose of a i le lake, and ;i. iidoved ill tra t surface of w;. ve had for si !; 1 a sensible iti he thernioiiiei descended in: r. v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 97 On the 31st of October, having got clear of the lakes, ^anips, and morasses, we entered suddenly upon a ferent and most delightful country, crowded with ties, towns, and villages ; the first rarely wanting the |ual embellishments of pagodas and high turreted ills. The surface of the country was now picturesque, fokcn into hill and dale, both well clothed, the suni- jts of the former generally crowned with forest-trees, [d the latter smiling with cultivation. The canal, too, )iii the time we had passed the arched causeway, had [gun to put on an appearance of increased magniti- Ince, being here not less than a thousand feet in Idth, and bordered with stone quays, composed of ^ge blocks of grey marble, intermixed with others of mite. Soon, however, by the contraction of the lal, we found the current, setting toM-ards the river, ; be from two to three miles an hour : and the bustle Id activity among the multitudes that crowded the Inks, and the number of imperial barges on the canal, ]ie moving and others at anchor, gave strong and rtaiu indication, that we were fast approaching th^i jint for launching into the Yellow River, which was ifiriued by an uninterrupted town extending for two I three miles on each bank of the canal, to the point [confluence with that river. jPreviously, however, to committing our barges to powerful stream, which rolled along in a rapid rent, certain ceremonies were deemed necessary to )])itiate the ruling deity. An animal of some kind to be sacrificed — generally a fowl or a pig, with 3s of oil, wine, and salt; the last article never itted. Our little fleet amounted to thirty sail of fges; and, when crossing about the middle of the II "v i . •■ 1 > f 1' -'::y\ *i i'l; r.i! ti • >■ I ■ > •■„ 98 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S fClIAl' stream, the gongs struck up a tremendous noise, ai companied by volleys of squibs and crackers, whiti ceascQ only when all were safe on the other side. Whatever credit we may be disposed to give \\. Chinese for their ingenuity, in facilitating a conniiuh cation between most parts of the empire, by canals,! is not easy to comprehend what could have restraiiii-; them from affording the same facility by means i good roads, more especially in those parts that In:; no navigations, and in the northern districts towin: the ca})ital, where, for three or four ?nonths, all ti canals and lakes are bound up in ice. The inisir experienced by the Dutch embassy, Aviiich travelled; Pekin by land, would be almost incredible, even in tl. least civilised of all countries. From a MS. joum lent to me, the state of the country they were carri'. over was wretched in the extreme — thrust into li*- mean bamboo chairs, each borne by four men, so uec and tottering, as to break down with fatigue, frcqucn;: in the middle of the night, where not a hovel of iii description was to be seen, to shelter them in the iiiiii of winter from the inclenrjncy of the weather ; tin lodgings, where any, were so miserable, admitting ti wind, rain, or snow on every side, that they general! preferred to rest in their bamboo chairs. But luaiiv' the details are too disgusting to repeat. Van IJnia: a jolly fat fellow, who, from the luxurious life Batavia, underwent a state of starvation in Cliii; writes to his friend that he had returned as thin as shotten herring. Whether such ignoble and ungenerous treatment ot complimentary embassy was occasioned by some aiick: dislike to this nation, or by its following so eagerly ai .ous noise, ai [•ackers, wliiti her side, d to give tt: ig a coiunniii: e, by canals,: bave rcstraiiii-; ' by means > larts that li;;; istricts towaro nonths, all tl :. The niisir ich travelkd: jle, even in tl a MS. joum 1 ;y were carrit; % lirust into li*t ir men, so wic igue, f'requcn;: : a hovel ot ii: em in the niii weather; tk e, admittiiiii tl : they geiierai, ). But many: ;. Van Braai ■; ixurious Hie ' ation in Cliii:; led as thin as js treatment o! by some ancit: i g so eagerly att 1 :r.V] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 99 )sely after that of the English, and was intended as a iscouragement to any further missions of the kind )iii other nations, we have no means of knowing; it the reception of a second English embassy was )fc nmch better, in some respects, than that of the futch. All I can say is, that nothing could be more coni- irtable or commodious than the whole of the inland ivigation on the Grand Canal, and on the rivers of fhina, from the northern to the southern extremity of ^is vast empire ; and nothing could exceed the unre- mitting care and attention of those great officers of ite, to whom the charg . of the embassy was en- isted, not to mention that of the Emperor himself. We found, as expected, that the influence of the fellow Kiver, on the south side, with its iidets and itlets, had covered a vast extent of country with ramps and marshes. Beyond these, however, the ipovince of Kiang-nan, in which we still were, rose into \\h, and gave the indication of fertility, prosperity, id an abundant population. We were told, indeed — id we experienced it — that the part of the country Ihich we had now reached, and as far as Hang-choo- 10, a distance of 250 miles, was the most beautiful, le best cultivated, the wealthiest, and the most popu- ns of any district, of equal extent, in all China; lere being not fewer than four celebrated cities of the [st rank close to the bahks of the Grand Canal, two which, Sao-choo-foo and Hang-cho-foo, are among |e finest and the most wealthy cities of China. The face of the country now became enchanting, both Ifore and after passing the great river of Yang-tse- ing in its south-e? tern course to the sea. I may at II 2 • ■ < t :i 1 ,!l. I r ■ ',•••>■"• 100 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [Chap, 111 once say, that we launched without ceremony into tlii; grand and beautiful river, about two miles iu widtli and so gentle that no oblation was deemed necessarv, About the middle of the stream we passed the Kli,. ,s/ian, the Golden Island, an imperial possession, coi' taining a palace and a splendid pagoda. The numerous ships of war, of commerce, and of pleasure, gliding « this tranquil stream — the two shores covered with vi lages and houses as far as the eye could reatli- presented a picture more varied and cheerful tlia: any that had hitherto occurred. Nor was the caiiai on entering it, found to be less lively. Cities, t(nvii> and villages, the whole distance from the Yello\y Kivir, were scattered along its banks without intermission: fleets of vessels collecting and carrying the taxes j)ai in kind, others laden with merchandise, and others i: pursuit of pleasure ; presented a busy and an intcro; ing scene. But to take a glance at the construction i; the canal, between the two mighty rivers of China :- Here, and in other places where the varied surtiK> of the country required great changes in the levels l the canal, a succession of dams separates the two kvei: in the form of glacis, of which the following skeU: may serve to give an idea. The barges are let clow: Canal and hauled up by a windlass and ropes on each bar of the canal; and they pass over a round beam of w crossing the upper part of the glacis. 0U( pM i I [CUAP. li lony into tB lilcs ill widtk led nccossarv, .ssed the Kuf lossession, eoi:- The iiumerou; ire, glidinii' o: vered with vi,. could reacli- cheerful tlia: was the canal Cities, town; Yellow Eivir, t intermission; the taxes j)ai; and others i: lid an iiitcrc* tionstructioii i: s of China :- varied surfatt in the levels i: s the two kvet ,, 1 ollowing sketti es are let dow: ECT. v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 101 i;^ nJi Canal W^'/JA^'Z'/^; is on each baiii d beam ofwooc 111 my walks through the grounds of this rich pro- lincc, to the southward of the Yang-tse-kiang, I met, I had been led to expect, with whole plantations of le cotton-plant that produces the yellowish-brown irhich in England is called nankin^ from its being liefly grown in the vicinity of that city. I could not liscover any difference in the leaf or the pod of this Ind of the common sort. Cultivation was here carefully Ixercised ; various kinds of pulse and grain in drills, Ind very luxuriant; buck-wheat in great qnantities, roiii the flour of which is made their excellent pastry ; lillet of three or four kinds, in high perfection — the dcm f<orghum six to eight feet high. I had seen iothing in the shape of a plough.* The valleys were Irowded with a variety of trees ; two of considerable y,\\\ty and great utility — the Laurus camphora and le Croton sebiferuin. The shining foliage of the first, liiigled with the purple leaves of the second, inter- ipted by the tall and stately Thuia orientalis — the Irce of life — had a pleasing effect on the eye. And the liversified forms of the repositories of the dead, with le usual melancholy cypress, sobered the mind in )ntciiip]ating the gayer portions of the scene. It was this bewitching part of the country that my fellow- isseiigcr Dr. Gillan preferred reading the Carthagi- iaii romance of Virgil to the contemplation of the jalities of China. The usual and most direct route to Canton is 3sterly, by the Yang-tse-kiang, passing Nankin, and ^encc, against the stream, to the Poyang lake, which is fact an inland sea; and thence southerly, against To open drills in wet or moist grounds, a wooden beam, witli a lulter attached to it, is drawn by an ox, a pony, or an ass. '.'■■ 1 « I ■.'■■'■., •.. i^ ■ I i\ , I ' (■I ■ ' i ■!ii 102 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [CiiAi'. 11, m i another stream flowing into it •, but as some of our party were to join the ' Hindostan ' at the Chusan islands, to which the bay of Hang-choo-foo is Jircctly opposite, we had kept along the canal, which terminates at the latter place, and by so doing had the opportunity of passing through the garden of China, and of seeiiis the two celebrated cities of Sao-choo-foo and Ilaii;;- choo-foo. The suburbs of the former took us time hours before reaching the walls of the city, where a multitude of vessels were at anchor. The walls wert crowded with spectators, mostly clothed in silk; the ladies in petticoats, not trowsers, a black satin cap \\\[\ a triangular peak extending to the root of the nose, with a crystal button decorating the head ; the checks highly rouged, and two vermilion spots like small wafers — very conspicuous — one on the centre of tlu under lip and the other on the chin. The pleasure and the passage yachts were crowded with these well- dressed ladies, which to us was quite a novel siglit, these fair creatures having hitherto rarely condescended to afford us a look at their beauty. I have noticed elsewhere the explanation of the superior style of dress in these females, as given by the Christian missionaries, — that, in this city and in Hans- choo-foo, females are educated in the pleasing arts ot singing, music, and dancing, in order to render them agreeable and fascinating ; that they are sold as concu- bines, or second wives, to mandarins and persons of pro- perty, " this being the principal branch of trade that 'n carried on in those two cities." But I have observed that such an assertion is as unfounded as it is ridiculous ; ami * that the writer must have been credulous to an extra- ordinary degree, to suppose that the principal trade o; v5S M- ' [Chai'.II, 5ome of our the Chusan ) is Jirectly h terminate opportunity nd of seeiii!! I and Ilaiii: 3ok us three jity, where a le walls \\m in silk; tlit atin cap \\\\\ of the nose, [ ; the checks s like small centre of tlu The pleaourt th these well- novel sigiit, condescends nation of tk given by the and in Han?- leasing arts of ) render theiii sold as concu- persons of pro- f trade that is s observed that idiculous; aiitl us to an extra- icipal trade oi CT. v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 1U3 m of the largest cities in the world, with a population not less than a million of souls, and a most extensive id flourishing commerce, should consist in buying id selling ladies of pleasure. If they had merely |iid that wives and second wives are bought in a legal [ay, they might have been believed, for such is the graded state of Chinese females. The day before reaching Ilang-choo-foo, we passed U'ough forests of nmlberry-trees, among which were i)served numerous sheds, and people employed in the jre and cultivation of silk-worms, which continued for )me miles. The canal between the two cities above jentioned is a splendid sheet of water, which termi- ites in a spacious basin, at this time crowded with lipping; and out of it issue numerous small canals, lat intersect the city, and which, passing throuj^'h rches formed in the walls, fall into a large lake at leir feet on the western side. The streets of the city re clean and commodious; and the shops splendidly id abundantly stocked with articles of every descrip- m which China can supply. The oay/ioo, or western lake, is the seat of pleasure, weV as of profit, to the inhabitants of Hang-choo-foo. LS we were to be delayed here a couple of days while le baggage of our companions, about to leave us, was issed over a neck of land to the sea-coast, I prevailed »i the good-natured Van-ta-gin to make a party to the Ike, to which he most readily assented. A splendid icht was provided, and another made fast to it, to serve a kitchen : the repast began the moment we got on lard, and ceased only when we stepped ashore. We id at least a hundred different dishes in succession, all icellent of their kind. A thousand barges were sail- • . 1 " i • . •« :, :| • fi •1) ■ ■"' If ' :!■ :'.■ '•..*:' ■'■■*,,■■,) ill I ■li K KM KAIil, OF MACAin'NKYS L(;i!M'.iil ill^: to and (Vo, ull ^'aily decorated witli paint and ^i|i ing, and si reaming- colours; tlu; parties in auh ol'tlau apparently in pnrsiiit of pleasnre. The margins of tli lake are studded with li^ht ai'rial buildings; oik . eonsiderahli' extent was said to he tlu; property ol' tli sovereign. The linest flowerinj;' shruhs and roots \mi ahiindant in the p'lrdens, as were; also the vaiiii, I'ruits of the country, hut all inilillerent, exce|)t tl oranji'es. Some of the scenery surrounding- this LiL is very heautil'ul, and ol' great variety- the niountiiii pictiu"es(pic, and the valleys at their I'eet made inters: ing- hy the mnnher and tlie diU'erent I'ornis of nioiii mental stones, sacred to the memory of the dead, iiip. rendered niori' interesting hy the several groups of mi: viving relatives, with votive offerings that are nun: regarded hy the Chinese. Notwithstanding our frecpient visits to the refic.4 mentroom in the yacht, so proliisely stocked hy oi friend Van, 1 did get time to take a sketdi of the lak and of a temj)le on the o])p()site side called the "Tciiij! of the Thundering Winds" — Ldi-fumi-ta — ])erchc(l n the toj) of a well-shaped hill. From this sketch M: Alexander made a pretty drawing, a print of whicli: in Sir George Staunton's narrative. The enormous amount of the j)opuIati()n of Cliiiii as given to Lord Macartney, was considered to I exaggerated, though admitted that the vast extent i territory was suiticient to feed such a nund)er. 1 liav found a note, whicli I nuist have got in China, on son statistics of that empire, in which it is stated that tli number of walled cities is 4400 : takcu at an avoix of 20,000 inhabitants to each (which 1 believe is in one-haltj Pekin being reckoned 3,000,000, Canto; iiiiit and \iM- I t!JU'h of till i: iiar|j;iiis ol' tli. .lill^•s ; one I irojim'ty ol' ilk and roots \vn lO tlic Mw'm lit, except til iliiig this till the nioiiiitalii made iiitcio; )niis of nioiii, tlie tlead, iiii groups ol' >ii: that are mm: to the relVi.4 stoeked hy ui,: tell of the lakt, ■dthe "Teiuiil 'a — ])ereheil ic this sketch M; i-int of whicliJ hition of Cliiiif. )nsidered to I ) vast extent I lUnher. 1 liii^ China, on soiik stated thattk II at an avorii|:^^| 1 hclievc is ii' )0,000, Caiitffi I k.T, V.| KMHASSY TO CHINA. lOA • ■ I ()()(),()()(), and Sao-ehoo and I laniJf-ehoo each ahove ()()(),()()()), our moderate estimate gives HH,U()(),()()() r the cities ah)ne. On the (hiy IbHowing our visit to the lake, Coh)nel tiisoii, Dr. (Jlilhin, and myselfj accompanied hy a mili- ry ollicer and his orcUirly, rode over a neck of huid to )k at the yachts jireparing for tlie remainder of our iiinicy. in the eveninj::, on returning, I proposed to t short the road hy a direct line to one of the city tcs, whicii I liad gone over uitli Van-ta-gin two days kl'ore. The oilicer, perceiving our intention, sent ward the orderly direct for the same gate. We urred our horses alter him ; on which the officer and ,e orderly set up such a hue-and-cry, that the whole hurbs were presently in a state of commotion. The tes were instantly shut, and all within was confusion ; c gongs were heaten and the guard turned out. I med them there was nothing to fear — that we were ly three, and had no other object than to pass to our ,clits. At length. Van and Chou, with soldiers and eiidants, made their a[)pearance, and affected to ijoy the joke of three Englishmen having caused so cli alarm to a strong city, which had then a garrison 3000 men within its walls. At a few miles fiom the city, we now took shipping the river Tching-tang-chiang, flowing from the til into Ilang-choo-foo hay. It occupied us seven s against the stream to reach its source, not far ni the only city, on its banks, of the third rank, led Tchang-tang-shien. The adjoining country is deficient in picturesque scenery; the surface is untainous and romantic, yet was cultivated with great lis, wherever the labour of the husbandman could be :i Mi .li ■•■'■ ' vi>'''ih .' •••• M 106 EAKL OF MACARTNEYS [CnAi', made to avail. In the valleys and glens was no n\; of trees — the tallow and the camphor tree, cedars, fi^ and the tall and stately arbor vita?. Groves of orangtf, lemons, and citrons were seen in most of the lift!: valleys, that sloped down to the river ; and few of \h cottages w^ere without a small garden and plantation a tobacco; the larger plains were planted with sugar-caw We had hitherto never fallen in with the tea-])laiit here, however, it formed the hedge-rows of the gardcE We had again a neck of land to cross, in order to gf to the source of another small river falling to the vcj; ward. With the greatest difficulty, chairs and men; carry them (something such as the Dutch had), i horses, could be procured : the English soldiers ^vli i composed the Ambassador's guard were to be canit: in these little chairs, shoulder-height; and thus elevate in the air, with their feathers and their firelocks, k feeling ashamed to be dragged along by the poor Iia.: naked and half-famished wretches ressed into the st; vice, they speedily dismounted, and insisted, in tlie: turn, upon carrying the Chinese : this land-journey vj. about twenty-four miles. The source of the river Loinj-clden-ton (which flo' westerly into the Poi/aug lake) is in the granite hi! near the city, of the third order, Eu-f^Iian-s/i ten, a inoa: looking place, where we stopped a couple of days, continued heavy rain, which inundated the ricc-iiiii so as to leave only their thatched roofs visible aliov the surface of the water. One of our vessels was up? on the roof of one of these mills. During two da) sail, the hilly country contijmed to be well wooded vt camphors, firs, and tallow-trees; but, on ap})roacliii the great /^o//ayi// sea, it assumed the appearance ot'^ J ,1 [ClI.M'. y-i EMBASSY TO CHINA. 107 was no uai. e, cedars, fir^, res of oraiigi!, of the litti: md few of tk plantation o: ith sugar-caiit the tea-plaiii Df the gai'deiii in order to gt ig to the \ve>; rs and men; utch had), c soldiers \\\ to be carrit; 1 thus elevate. r firelocks, k / the poor lia!; id into the si: sisted, in the: nd-journey vi on (which flof he granite liil i-shten, a mea: pic of days, ' the rice-mi s visible abov essels was nf in'ing two dav' ell wooded vit: on approadiii. pearance ofoi jtended marsh, without any visible signs of cultivation. lis in fact the sink of China — a wide waste of swamp, (irse grass, and bulrushes, for ten or twelve miles from margin of the lake. A few huts, and as many boats, licated the occupation of the inhabitants to be that of ching fish, which is done by various means. To ible them to take water-fowl, large gourds and ^cks of wood are thrown into the waters, to fami- rise these creatures to such objects; the fishermen ^11, keeping their bodies below the surface, and stick- their heads into the gourds or earthen pots, ap- bach the birds in a gentle manner, take them by the and draw them quietly under the w^ater. We had now to be tracked up the river Kan-kiang-ho, lich hows from the south into the Poyang lake, after lourse of about three hundred miles. On this river the city of Nan-tchang-foo, where four or five hun- ^d revenue vessels were lying at anchor ; these being that class, which is said to amount to ten thousand. Lad the curiosity to go on board one of them, in order iscertain its capacity. I found its dimensions within )e, length 115 feet, breadth 15 feet, and depth of hold 6 feet ; estimated burden 250 tons. Before city, therefore, besides the multitude of small craft, re about 100,000 tons of shipping. d the city of Kin-gan-foo the river became much h'OAver, the current much stronger, and it required jiiy men to track the barges. The country, however, rcased in beauty, fertility, and population, as we pro- led. Hitherto, the banks abounded with larch, firs, camphor-tree, and that useful plant the bamboo ; the general produce of the soil was the sugar-cane, I dwarf mulberry ibr the nutriment of the silkworm. l!! • .> .' •'■t t, 108 EAUL OV MACARTNEY'S [ClIAP.I C I wheat, maize, and holcus. Among the most ahnnda: shrubs on the upper part of this river was the Caiiiell sesanqua, called hy the Chinese the c/ia-irli(t, t "flower of tea," which it resembles, beinj^ in fact oftl same genus : and I always sus])ected the Assam tt to be the same as, or a variety resembling, tlu' « sanqua. Having ])otted two varieties of the ten-pit and of the sesanqua, and being desirous of addiiii: them a plant of the varnish-shrub (for which tills ph is famous), I prevailed on our excellent friend Vaix gin to obtain o!ie for me^ which he as readily did ;is: had done the others. They all however, after ouimI fi parture, began to droop and the leaves to wither. Sl pecting the trickery of the Chinese, 1 caused the jn to be examined, when it was found that not a single pk had the smallest portion of a root, each being a me cutting from a branch of its respective shrub. The banks of this river being high, the Avatcrv f|jBt)n( brought up to them by means of a wheel, i'rom .'}() to; ^W^ '^ feet in diameter, made entirely of baml)oo, witlioir fHKh'i piece of iron — even a nail. The water is scodi* fl up in the river by the hollow joints of the haiiil placed obliquely on the outer rim of the wheel, .<() ti each joint on its arrival at the top dej)osits, through t; ^ open end, the \\ater it had carried up, in tanks or otl, ^ vessels there placed to receive it. We had now a very serious land journey beluii across the steei) and loftv mountain of Mi/in, \\h-^''^%^ summit is the boundary of the two provinces of Kia;, ^ see and Quan-tung ; on the south side of which is river IVi-kiang-ho, that flows by tiie city of V-M ^ and the mouth of which is familiarly known In n- J' the name IJocca T'njris, We ascended this muuiits rit irii- i:('iiAi..| most al)\iii(la: lis till". Caiiu'll, c c/ui-irltd, ( ig in Diet oftl the Assam \, iiiblinji, till' j >f the tea-|)l,i IS of addiii'.'- which this pla t friend Vaix eadily did ;is; cr, after our d to wither. Si, caused the p lot a single pk c\\ heiiifi; a im: «hrub. 1, the Avatont 1, i'rom .'}() tii; iinboo, withoir ater is sconjv of the baiiil" le wheel, so tl: )sits, throutili :: in tanks or (itt )nrney hefoiv of M(Hii, wIk- fvinces of Kia:. > of whicli is; I city of Ciuit' f known to ib I this niuuiitii EMBASSY TO CHINA. 109 c on liorseback, otliers in chairs, over a //cll-paved carried on in a zig/ag niaiiner across the very est point, ill whidi was cut a pass of consideraldo itli, tlirongh a granite rock. The view from the init is varied and ridi, extending over a great of the province of Canton. Our descent down s]o})e was gradual for about eighteen miles, which gilt lis to the city of Naii-shuen-foo. In this lUce we had met at least a thousand persons on ,r way to Nan-gan-foo, each bearing ten or twelve lis of oil, and among thorn a number of women. fter passing some six miles down the southern slope Mc'liii, the mountain had blended into the general ce of the country ; then commenced a constant 'ssioii of buildings, on the remaining twelve miles, at it iiiight be considered as one continued street: their miinber, however, consisted of jdaces of con- cnce for passengers — the doors, or rather openings, :;' always invitingly fronting the jiublic road. Each ling, whether alone or connected with another, had rie of this kind open for public, joid at the same , for jirivate benefit, and under each was a terrace irn — so anxious are the Chinese to collect and pre- , for use or for sale, every species of manure, which iversally used in a liquid state, in their general 111 of dibbling and drilling. e had no sooner entered the province of Canton, jeniliarked on the rei-kiang-ho, than a very marked ence was perceptible in the conduct of the inha- D^pts. Even the peasantry ran out of their houses, bat^^ing out .all kinds of opprobrious language in the jargon of Canton, and the further we advanced towards thai city, the more rude and insolent they became. We 1 •" •■' . ^ ; 1 I mi i'lIi ■ I ,1' I! J ^ « I • ' V I 110 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [ClIA^- had taken up our lodgings at Nan-shuen-foo, in a put temple dedicated to the memory of Confucius, being t: college where students nre examined for their degre It consisted of a long dark room, divided by two ro; of red pillars, having no furniture, paintings, or a: other ornament than some paper lanterns suspcm! between the pillars. At the further extremity vv several small apartments, in which we contrived top the night. One of these temples, or colleges, is to be found io near most, if not all, of the great cities ; they are sck in fact for young statesmen, where they are instruc and examined in political morality, contained in: books of Confucius, in which is to be found the s religion, and apparently the only one they pos-e and it consists chiefly of that kind of command ; obedience which is supposed to exist between part and children, superiors and inferiors, and the Enipe over all, as absolute sovereign. Yet he affects, at 1- when matters of state go wrong, to ask advice, ; even reproo/j from his subjects, and tags ?. moral luai or two to his self-reproach. Homer appears to h well understood this : — '" Bold is tiie task when subjects grown too wise Instruct a monarch where l;is error lies ; For thougii tliey deem the short-liv'd fury past, 'T is sure the mighty will revenge at last." We sailed for two days in our little barges tlm one of the most wild, mountainous, and barren trac; country I ever beheld, more abundant in the siili and awful than in the picturesque or bcnii" Rising from the margin of the stream we observed: remarkable points of sandstone rock, one above - *' -foo, in a pul* iicius, being t )r their de^% :3d by tworr^ lintings, or i ;erns suspend extremity w: ;ontrived to[; . ;o be found in they are sck ;y are instrut: contained in: found the ^!; ;ie they posji- »f command ; between part: ind the Empt; e affects, at 1* ask advice, ; ?. moral niai appears to b 11 loo wise lies ; M fi\ry past, It last." e barges thrK d barren tract nt in the suit!: lue or bcant we observed: :, one above r. v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. Ill "> .. ) ' \\ ier, with perpendicuhir faces, as if they had been m out of one soUd mountain : they were called the \ma-fou, or the five horses' heads. Pine-trees ap- ired on the mountains, and lower down the sloping les tracts of coppice-wood, in which the camellia pre- led, which with plantations of tobacco, near the fisher- n's huts in the glens, were the principal features in vegetable world. In the defiles of these mountains observed the adits of numerous collieries, advan- M)nsly worked by driving levels from the bank of river. So long as the mountains continued, the habitations on the borders of the river were the ts of the colliers and the fishermen. Quarri(;s of it extent occurred in these wild and romantic mtains, from which stones for temples, sepulchral unuents, arches of bridges, blocks for paving streets roads, and for various other purposes, were cut fashioned. L<" tlie city of Tchao-tchoo-foo the hills began to re- 3, and the river to \\iden ; so that we exchanged our [bottomed boats for large end commodious yachts. ^e, for the first time, we were gratified by the un- il sight of numerous young girls rowing the ferry- boats, employed in carrying passengers across the ril||r. I say gratified, for hitherto (except at Sao- tcheo-too) we had scarcely set eyes on a female, unless l^Mie ])erformance of some drudgery on the land or on ttiCwater, whereas the young girls in question were (Spntly dressed in neat white jackets and petticoats, i;i})sy straw hats. )oii after this, the chain of mountains abruptly 3d, and we entered upon a wide-extended plain. ■■It .li I '! !■' |! i A I 112 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [ChapJ terminated only by the horizon, and we observed ; parts of it in a high state of tillage, the chief prodii being rice, sugar-canes, and tobacco. The rivtr fc considerably increased in width, being not less than k a mile. Canals branched from its two banks in eve direction. The whole country might be considered ai garden, producing objects applicable alike to profit j to pleasure. The choicest shrubs and flowering plant; China were here to be met with, collected r.nd cultivat for sale ; and these, coupled with the rise of the river the tide, gave sufficient indications that we were at great distance from the city of Canton; in fact, on;: 1 0th of December, we halted before a village just sight of the suburbs of that city. Here the Ambassador was met by the fiictorv c missioners of the East India Company, who had a. neral permission from the Viceroy to proceed tlui>: to make their parties of pleasure. On the present oi sion, with the view of making the entree of the cnilii the more striking in the eyes of the Chinese, a iiiiii. • of barges had been prepared with flags, streaiiir and umbrellas, with bands of music, and various i:: insignia of official etiquette. About the niiddl the day we arrived before the factories, wlierc Ambassador was received by the So)uj-t''>o, or Vici: the Governor, the Ho-poo, and all the principal dti of government. We were then all conducted to opposite side of the river, where a temporary huik of poles and mats had been prepared for the oe( a> within which was displayed the usual screen of vi silk bearing the name of the Emperor in gilt diarai' and before Avhich the Viceroy and other officers i [ClIAf.-^ re observed t e chief prodii The river L; ot less than h banks in eve considered ai ke to profit a iwering plant; d {ind cultiva: ;e of the river t we were at ; in fact, on:; a village just the factory c y, who had a. proceed thus: the present oi ('(? of the cnilft Ihinese, a nun. flags, streaiiii \nd varions i': it the niiiKlk ories, wlieri.' ()-t'^o, or Vici; i principal liffi conducted to }mporary bulk i 1 for the oc(a« 1 screen of vt.. ' in gilt cliavat: )ther oflftcers" rr. v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 113 rongh the required prostrations, in token of respect id gratitude to his Imperial Majesty for having vouch- fed us a jileasant and prosperous journey. It is but justice to the Chinese Emperor and hi.s keriunent, as well as to the officers who had any con- |rii in the affairs of the end)assy, to declare that, as larded ourselves, their conduct was uniformly marked liberality, attention, and an earnest desire to please. Ind I may add, without being accused of national knity, that, in the course of a long journey and daily tercourse, all prejudice against us as foreigners, if it at existed, speedily disappeared ; that, gained by our ink and open manners, they seemed to fly with plea- Ire to our society, as a relief from the stiff' and tedious nnalities they were obliged to assume in their official 3acity. I have stated in another place * tnat our two )rthy conductors, Van and Cliou, constantly passed evenings in some of our yachts, and I added — [t is impossible to speak of those two worthy men terms equal to their desert: kind, condescending, [reniittino- in their attentions, they never betrayed one )nieiit of ill humour from the time we landed in lina till they took their final leave of us at Canton." lese two officers were capable, indeed, of real attach- jnt. They insisted on accompanying the Ambassador i board the 'Lion,' where they took their last farewell, parting they burst into tears, and showed the longest marks of sensibility and concern. Their felings quite overcame them, and they lefl the ' Lion ' ^rowful and dejected. " And here," says Lord Ma- ftney, "our friends Van-ta-gin and Chou-ta-gin took fcve of us. They shed tears at parting, and showed * Travels in Cliiiia. .' • 1 ' If ..VII il i-ii: i [■ii p. I! ii .' •■■( . t. II 1 II: 114 Kwih OK ma(;autni:y's r<'iup,ii| sncli marks of sonsiliility aiul coiiconi as (loiild jmiciv from iionti Imt siiiccri! and imc.orruptod htarts. Ii over could for^cl, the l'ric;iidslii|) and attaclimciii ot'tliK two worthy men, or tlic services they reiuUred us, sliould l)(^ guilty of tin; deepest iiiji,ratittule." Early the followiiiM; moriiiiij;' tliey sent on \m,\^ twenty haskets of fruit and ve^etahles as a faiv«> token oi' remend)rance. We liad the satislhcti to hear that, immediately on their arrival at IVki: both wire promoted — Chou to a hi^h situation at coiir and \'an in tlu; army; and it afterwards ap))ear((l tl: Van, the cheerful, ^ood-iunnoured Van, had ]);ii(l ' (lel)t of nature, having- fallen iionourahly in the ,s(r\; ol'his country. To myself personally Van-ta-^in was always iin, kind and anxious to make himsi^lf agreeable. Vp the first 1 endeavoured to converse with him in an (){' /Mitois Chinese, in which he was evt;r ready to ma; out my meaning; he never passed our yacht witlio. calling out " l\iUo, ho/o doT (Barrow, how are Vdii' At Canton he gave me a mark of his confidence hyi; viting me to a little evening ])arty, which he a])iH'ar: desirous sliould not he jmhlicly known. One cveiiL Lee came to me with a message from Van, re(|iusti: me to return with him to his yacht to join a ,sil party of his friends, apologising for not sending t; usual card of invitation. I returned with Lee . his boat to V^an's yacht, and was introduced iiitu handsome apartment, and severally to three cki:;i well-dressed ladies, each of whom 1 was desired : salute. Next I was presented to a third geiitkim the new Governor of Canton. The ladies were iini amused at my clumsy attempts to speak their laiigiii!: '"ik" and iWlf I their dtCin ^ [("lUPj ^•r. V. KMHASSY TO CHINA. 11/; , could ])r()(iv I lu'iirts. It: •Imiciii of till- iHiiuUrcd us, le. scut on Ixiar 4 as a tjiriwt \iii siitisracti ■rival at IVk tiiation at cdiir ,s a|)i)t!arc(l tL II, had |)ai(l r ly ill the .si;r\i ^as always iim «;rccal)l('. Im'' h him ill a a: 1- ready to ma' ir yacht witlii. , how arc ymi' foutideiice hy: ich he appwir I. One eviiii: Van, rc(iiKsti to join a Ml not sciuliiig t i.;d with Iac itroduccd into to three cU":: was desirotl third ^;ciitkiii' ladies were m ik their lanpia- if l)ciii<4 prompted by Van to ask tli(!m to i'avour me ith soini! music and siiif^in!^', tlicy I'cadily let me know tlicir (•om])iianc(;, that tliey liad none of tjiat vice licli Horace ascribes to all siiiji'crs, for ail three struck forlliwitli, accomj)anied hy an instrument of the iiic nature as tin; jj,uitar. Tin' ladies conducted them- Ivcs with ^rcat decorum, yet 1 felt anxious to know i(t or what they were ; hut the (piestion was not to he icd; and after takinj;' a (;u|) of tea with some fruit ^(1 cakes, in about an hour Lee; came l()r me in our lilt. I asked him if he knew anything of these ladies, it he said he had been so lonj^ont of liis own country, it he had almost forti'otten the maiui(;i"S of his <!Oiin- iiKU. lie did not know whether Van or (Jhoii had iir lirst or second wives in their own barges with jni, lint he believtid one of the thre(! to be the wife of (Jovernor of Canton, and the other two her friends. ic next day our conductors took their leave in the miur I have mentioned, and the embassy shortly |cr removed to Macao. We remained at this place g«( lal weeks waitinji' lor the homeward-bound ships of tbie I'^ast India Comjiaiiy, thirteen in munber, to be jdbi(((l under the convoy of the 'Lion.' On the Gtli of 8(g)t< iiiher, 171)1, we arrived at Spithead, havin<r on the pfe^it)us nijiht run between two lines of Lord Howe's fleet, standing; down Channel, after having- safely lodged hit pi'izes taken from the French on the 1st of June pteccdint'-. Having now in my remarks gone rapidly and d%htly over a long journey, by water and by land, of SOBic twelve or thirtiieu hundred miles, through the heart oi^h(! Chinese Empire, and having walked, from curi- as well as for the sake of making observations, not I 2 i 'll Mi '■ f ■ •.>.' . ), 116 1';A1!L or MACAiriNEVS [('HAl.,1 less certainly than a tenth part of that distance aloi and unmolested, it is due to the inhahitants to doclar that I never met with the slightest insult or intcrm- tion from any class of the Chinese population, wlutli official or ])k'l)eian ; hut, on the contrary, the mostci; and courteous conduct from the highest to the lowc;; with a willing disposition always to oblige. The two succeeding embassies, it is well known, nii with another kind of treatment — that of the Duti literally from their humiliating conduct and denieanoi;: The second English embassy to Pekin was treated in way very unlike the first, and altogether failed ; ni however, owing to any fault of Lord Andierst, tl Ambassador, or of the gentlemen who composed I. suite. No man could possibly be more courteous tlia his Lordship, or more anxious to obtain the objects his mission, in which he was ably assisted by one, : ; least, of the three commissioners; but, unfortniiau!- it was doomed in its outset to the failure it met wit; mainly, if not altogether, by the improper advice givr by a certain ])ersonage, who had a sort of prescripti; influence in the Treasury at the time, and in some otii departments of government. In order to support such a charge I must put my-; into the witness-!)OX. Lord Buckinghamshire, tl,: President of the Board of Control, sent one day to-: me, for the purpose, he said, of consulting me on t: subject of the letter to be written by the King of E::, land to the Emperor of China. My first and obvid observation was, that as the letter carried out bv L ' Macartney gave great satisfaction lO the Emperor a: his ministers, as was publicly acknowledged by tlRiii Pekin, and also in the Emperor's letter in reply toll [ClIAP, :t. v.] EMUASSY TO '.'IllNA. 117 [listance aloi> ' lilts to (U'clar t or iiitcrnii atioii, wlutli' , the iiiostiiv t to the l()^vc>■ e. L'll known, n, of the Duti; lucl deineaiioii: vfis treated in ler failed', ii' Amherst, t! composed 1. courteous tli?. in the object? sted by one, : -, ui.fortnnaUl; hire it met win per advice giv^ t of preseriptr lid in some ott must put iiiy?t ghamshirc, tli it one day to ^ dting me out; he King of Ei.: first and obvk ried out by L ' the Emperor a edged by tliein T in reply to ti the King of P^ngland, might it not be prudent to llow it np by one of the like tendency on the ])resent casioii ? Ihit his Lordship observed, " Lord Maeart- y escaped the perforinanec of the degrading cere- oiiia], which is the main point; and how did he cceed without giving offence ? Did the letter he ■eseiitod effect that?" My reply was, "It did not, t it prepared the Chinese for receiving some substi- te of homage, which th^'Ugh the court did not and nld not accept when tendered, as being contrary to ic established rules of the empire, yet as it manifested is])osition to meet them half-way, they were not dis- ascd at it, though disai)})ointed." But wliat," his Lordship asked, "am I to say in letter to the Emperor which I am desired to draw ?" I observed, " That in my opinion much might ult from the nature and style of the letter, from the iig to tbe Emperor; that as obedience to the com- iids of their sovereign is, with the Chinese, the first dnties, they could not be so unreasonable as to exact, 111 the subjects of a foreign sovereign, disobedience that sovereign's commands. It was by his Lordship Bowing the most profound respect and reverence for his n sovereign, and proposing to show^ the same respect his Imperial Majesty, that })revailed on tlie Emperor to insist on the Chinese ceremonial; I should, tlicre- e, hniiibly advise that the Emperor of China be told, as ni the King of England, that he had sent his trusty well- beloved cousin to his presence, with suitable scuts, and with strict injunctions to a])pear before \m Imperial Majesty with every mark of respect, of bSniage, and obeisance, and with such cereinonial as fe# is recjuired and accustomed to use, in appearing bi#)re his own sovereign." .•:■-.* ■t A I' tl. 1:J' '..<: 118 1:A1{L (;K MACAin'NKY'S [CuAi'.lL r. Lord Ijuckiiij^liamsliirc' ap])eare(l satisfied, and 1 1. llevc the letter was written to that ellect; hut Mr. iim. Hose, on heinji; consulted, interposed his opinion jn advice, in direct opposition to that which 1 had giv(; thought it nonsense, and that in })lace thereof h:. Amherst should he instructed to act as the oceasiu; niijiht re(piire, "leaving- Lord Amherst to his disfrotiir whether to perlbrni the Koo-too or not, according i he might tind himself likely to \)nAt hy the one on!. other." And thus, with such an instruction in 1: pocket, and with what kind of letter from his kin;;! know not, was Lord Andierst thrown upon the widek, of discretion ; hut he had a steady })ilot in Sir Cnor: Staunton, a gentleman who, to great miklncss, urbaiiin and benevolence of disposition, unites an indepeiidna and lirnuiess of character not to he shaken hy ])ers(iiii threats, to which he appears specially to have been sir; jected on this occasion : it was through his skill ai: decision that the Ambassador's bark escaped foundiri:. on the rocks of degradation. Of the three commissioners whom Lord AmlicF had to consult — a nund)er (piite enough to ruin at; project — two advised tlie performance of the Koo-tn Sir George Staunton firndy resisted it, and his Lor} ship wisely adhered to his opinion. ]\Ir. Marjorihaiii' in his letter to Mr. Grant, says, "After attempted ii timidation had failed, Lord Andierst (strongly iirgv: by Mr. Ellis, the third commissioner) communicated! Sir George Staunton, that he had made up his uiiiid; perform the Koo-too, unless he (Sir George) was pre pared to say that his doing so would be injurious tott interests of the East Lidia Company." lie did says- and most assuredly it Avould have been. Sir Giurc had the strongest grounds for knowing that they wtr i *L It'llAIV lied, and 1 1 . (lit Mr. (jiMii. 1 I liad !iiv(: thereof Ldi s the occasii ) Ills discntii , accordiiii: i the one or tl TUCtioil ill 1: oiu his kill;;! )n tlie Nvidi'H in Sir Ckdii; hicss, urhaiiiti iiidepeiKkiii :en hy ]m'm,. have been sir- 1 his skill ai, iped fouiukii:. l^ord AiiilicK nh to ruin ai; of the Koo-tii and his Lop: •. ISIarjorihanli' r atteini)tc(l !:• (strongly ur^^'; jnimunientwli up his niiml; eorge) ^vas prf injurious to tl lie did say S" n. Sir Goui: ; that they wir CT, V,1 EMBASSY TO CHINA. 119 \w enough already at Canton, and that sueh a hunii- itioii would, at once, throw the servants of the East (lia Company more completely into the power of the n'iiiits of Canton. Jiord Andierst wisely therefore refused the degrading ;rcinoiiy, aiul was grossly insidted and dismissed, not ilv without an audience of the Emperor, hut without iving once enjoyed the light of his countenance, 1(1 without even having been admitted within the itcs of the cajjital ; hut in the true spirit of Chinese licanery and cuiming, the government having once )t rid of the intruders beyond the atmosj)here of :;kin, the end)assy was treated, on their way home, ^ith the same kind of attention throughout their long [luriiev to Canton, as that which the embassy of Lord [aoartney Imd experienced. Had Lord Amherst carried with him such a letter as I advised, and given a copy of it (always demanded) to le inij)ertinent Tartar minister, on whom his Lordship )nferred the title of Duke {Duke Ifo), and who on mding presented to his Lordship a yellow screen to )w down to, he would no doubt have escaped the isolent outrage to which he was exposed ; and, more- /er, have been graciously received by the Emperor, ccr seeing in the proposed letter the notification from 10 sovereign of England of the conduct his And)as- idor was to pursue. As it was, the crafty Duke had ily to report to his master his Lordship's own obsti- late refusal, without any palliating circumstances. Subsequent events have brought us into a closer and, is to be hoped, a more permanent connection with le Chinese empire; and the only way to establish that J'ectually must be by those, oflicially employed, having :lil i ! •'* HJ'. ,1! • ..♦ •• ■ t, 120 EAHL OF MACARTNEY'S [Chap. obtained a competent knowledge of their language This point, it has been supposed, will be gained k means of the consuls or superintendents at the Easter:: ports. Much reliance, however, is not to be placed u: these. Looking back for a century and a half to tlk great number of English gentlemen, servants of tlk East India Company, in the factory at Canton, we k<\ two, and only two, T believe — Sir George Staunton an! Mr. John (now Sir Joh:i) Davis — who had conquemi the supposed difficidtics of the Chinese language, aiic translated several of their best works in various depart' ments of moral and political literature, and even of tlk drama and poetry. Before this, it was a subject of coiri' plaint that, while the language and literature of Chii;; were abundantly spread over the continent of Europe,!) means of the studious labours of a few poor missionarii!, and two or three literary gentlemen, the English, liviii; in the lap of luxury, had supplied nothing; that con; fort and luxury, perhaps, were the very causes cf tiit defection. It was, moreover, a reproach cast on tlit English nation that, while France, with little or no in- tercourse with China, had established a Chinese proft- sorship in Paris, England, with her lucrative comniercisi intercourse, had given herself no concern as to tlio laii- guage and literature of that most populous and exten- sive, as well as most ancient empire in the world. The reproach, however, is about to be wiped oti', Sir George Staunton, with his usual zeal and readines>s tj forward any rational scheme for the benefit of mankiml. has nobly stood forward, and alone, chiefly by his pur-t and his pen, has succeeded in obtaining the means el establishing a Chinese professorship, to be ajjpended t- the King's College of London. The importance t" )ls. llici kI'" M\ [CiiAf.ii;^ m eir languagt "^^^ be gained k t the Easter;: be placed O:: a half to tlk rvants of tlit niton, Ave y, Staunton aiii ad conqiR'M language, aiic arious depart' id even of tk ubject of colli- iture of Chin; of Europe, ly r niissionariiN English, liviii: ng ; that coiii' causes ef the h cast c'\ tilt little or no in- Chinese profe ve comniei'ciai 1 as to tlie laii' us and extoii- le world. wiped otl". & id readines>sK' fit of niankiiiJ. [ly by his puK ^- the meaus ul )e a})pen(led t' importance t' fccT. v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 121 ' " :!lili lose, who obtain official situations in China, and to the )uiitry which sends them, may best be secured by car- ing with them a knowledge of the language. This is a )int so obvious that, it is to be hoped, no lucrative ap- )i tnicnt will hereafter be conferred on any candidate, [ho has not undergone an examination by the Professor, id had the extent of his knowledge ct. tiiied by him. There is no difficulty whatever, as has been supposed, acquiring a knowledge of the Chinese language.* [he construction and arrangement of the written syiii- 3lri, that compose the language, are as simple, as in- jnious, and withal as systematical, as the 'Systema Tatura^'of Limia>us, to which, in fact, the classifica- m bears a striking resemblance. The great divi- loiis of the language may be compared to the classes id ordf'rs, which are followed by the genera and Decies. A brief outline will suffice to give a general idea of ie nature of the written and of the spoken languages China. Of the former some dictionaries contain ),000 distinct characters or words, some .50,000, and Jhcrs still more ; but four or five thousand are said to sufficient for reading or writing the language. Each ^aractcr is a monosyllable, and therefore the name of ^y one character must necessarily be applied to a [cat number of other characters ; for it would not be sy to make out forty thousand difterent and distinct )nosyriabie sounds in any language ; but we shall see kw they get rid of this apparent ambiguity. iMy eldest daufrliter (IMrs. Coi. Battj), at an early ago, wrote iiiid made lierself aeqnaiiited witli tlie 214 radical cliaraoters, would easily have conquered the language, had s«he been sup- ed with Chinese books. •d i.l^il. 'I lit .Mil • V,l' J 122 EAUL OF MACARTNEY'S [Chap. II, I In writing forty or fifty thonsand characters, somef them apparently complicated, and composed of eightei or twenty parts or strokes of the pen, there would ar. pear to be some difficulty, but not more, if so nmch, ^ in forming the twenty-four letters of our alphabet. I fact, none of the forty or fifty thousand characUt however apparently complicated, have more lines e rudiments in their composition than are comprised i the following six ebments, or some small variation i them : — *"^ ya^ the numbi^r one. Zij ya^ the same. 7 ycun., to descend. "^ clioii^ a point. y sieu, bent inwards. ^ the same, outwards. 1 hie, These are generally found at the commencement every dictionary, followed by a list of the keys (asv usually name them), or radicals, or primitives, one which is found attached to every character, and may called its index, and is placed sometimes on the lii side, sometimes on the left, frequently at the top, son times at the bottom, and rarelv in the middle. Ot'tk keys there arc no fewer than 214, which are arraiia in the dictionaries under seventeen classes or chapKr i., the first containing only those characters composed one line, the second of two lines, the third of throe, diw to the seventeenth class, comprised of those of scveiite lines, of which there are but two characters. The b seven in the series extend to those of twenty-eight lint |Th ^se, lira Go irui [Chap, 1 r. v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 123 acters, some' 3cd of eiglitet lere would af if so mucli,t • alphabet. 1 Liid charactu' more lines ( 3 compriscil all variation I iiimencemciit ^ the keys (<>!( 'imitives, our ;ter, and inin ' ncs on the ri'i it the top, sdii iTiddlc. OftW ch are arraiia isses or chapttr ers coinpo^^iil rd of three, ih lose of sevoiitc ,cters. The fi? •veiity-cight h leir average four; the ten next to 126 lines, average rteen. The class of characters which contain the est lines, occupy the greatest number of keys : — First key ♦«-i ye, one. *^ van, ten thousand — key above. iJ^ shang, above — key below. *7r' slda, below — key at top. j^ slice, seven — middle, econd key w$ ul, two. ^S yun, to speak. 2? ou, the number five — one part above and one below. y\ or X jin, a man — a very nume- rous key. AA chc, a young girl, ease, luxury. \^ fihioi, commander of 1000 men. Jj^ king, when, at the same time. Q[ koo, the mouth — a very extensive key. r^ MO, and number ten, antiquity. koo and ta (great and mouth), to swallow, to devour. ^hese two last are among the very few, where the and the character have any correspondence in iise, which is a great defect in the combination of racters. Jencrally speaking, therefore, the dissection of a iracter rarely attbrds information towards determin- ..Ik; •.'■" ' •..* ■• '" i t, * V 124 KAlil. OF MACAHTNEYS LCiiAPi iiig its sense. If. is quite sur{)risiiig how a people, \\> could strike out so ingenious and methodical ;i iila should liave coniniittcd so gross a hlund(!r, as to K sight of all connection hetween the genus ami ti species, and to ])lacc the keys at random, as it wc regarding only the munher of strokes of the cliiirat;: to mIucIi they are attached. Thus what can a])pear to be more absurd tluiu ,1 two following instances : — >^ the key, Avood — the character ori'r a mouth i! noting an apricot; but wood luidcr the mouth ^ signil'/ing a stupid, ignorant fellow. Or, take the following, both being keys ? — W the sun ' \ hio, clear, white. ^^ wood \ i/<u\ obscure, great. wood or free y^ sun Some of the early Jesuits in China underfook analyse the characters, and to draw I'rom each scpai part a concordant signilicatien ; but their object ;: pears to have been to prove, that the two ])arts uiiitt generally jn-oduced some sacred mystery, while tlk fervid imaginations prevented their seeing the riilii lous and revolting nonsense of su})})()sing the Cliiiif to entertain subjects they never heard of. The I lowing arc a few of them, extracted from a rm ingenious work of extraordin-ry labour and reseyrt; but not likelv to be of much utility :* — * ' Systenia I'lioiieticum Sciiptiira' Siiiiea',' l)y Q. M. ('u\\V INFissioiiario Apostolico in Cliiiia, 1841. I'lohably a roilii; wlio writes in Latin and French. ICiiAi'.i: a people, wi tluxlical ii |ili,; d(!r, as to !> go 1 Ills and t: oiii, as it Mt: t' i'lic t'liarac! ibsurd tliMu ,: '(';• a mouth i! the luoutli ^ ■ys ?- v.] KM15ASSY TO CHINA. 12.J eat. la undertook m\ eaeli sopiira their ohjei't z wo parts uiii:- ter\", whiU' tt jeiiig' tlie riilii isiiig the Chilli i-d of. Jhi [I I'roiu a rut ur and rcscari: (thably a I'ditii'- j\'S tchuan, a ship generally. This character is ex- khI to contain the history of the Dehige, as in it we the xhip -^ , the number chjht )\^ , and a mouth ; that is to say, the ark, with eight persons, Noali, hvife, and children. Jau, greatly to long for, to desire. This is said evi- fflfctly to describe the sin of Eve, being composed of ^Q a woman, and yj^ moo, a tree, twice repeated — jubtedly meaning Eve {co7ieii/)iscciis), between the of life and the tree of knowledge of good and evil. ^/ni)(/, sorrow, sickness ; alluding (we are told) lour Saviour; being composed of ^Z i/(i>i<i, a lamb, ^A sin, the heart. — "The lamb of (iod, whoso was sorrowful even to death :" — all of which, I need ijidly say, is grossly absurd. ft has been stated, that c^'ery one of the forty or fifty isaud characters is a monosyllabic ; and the general ^reuce is, that the spoken language nuist be mono- lahic ; but this is not so — most languages, I believe, their infancy, were monosyllabic, even our own glisli, as the Introduction to Johnson's Dictionary show ; but by cond)ining the nmnosyllables, a more lions and expressive language is obtained. Thus the luesc phonetic language is su])posed to consist of no te than 400 distinct monosyllables ; consequently, )ng their 40,000 characters, all or most of them ^t be expressed by the same sound. But they have means of getting rid of this apparent difficulty. [their four intonations their 400 is capable of pro- [hig lOOO; but what are these, it maybe said, to :'-il i1 •1 ■; ■'. .' . il V..*.' ' ■■•I ' ■' '. » . 126 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [CiiAp.i; the 40,000 characters ? A man in conversation iiia|. use of the sylhible foo, father, a monosyllabic sun: which has, besides that of fat/icr, from twenty to tliir different significations, and each may be represented i its own distinct character, but the sound is the san;. foo ; if the person spoken to appears to doubt, t; speaker adds another syllable to it, and says foo-cl father, relation, which decides the meaning. Tlios \ah\e jin signifies man — if a crowd of men were to described, it would be done by jln-nuin, men many. 1 a person has to say " I go to-day and retukii to-nionw he will use the following: chin-f/e-lai, this day go; hi ge whei-lai, to-morrow day return (back go). In fact, a monosyllabic language is almost inipossi! in the intercourse of mankind, and must of ncccs- grow into a polysyllabic. Take, for instance, t: numerals : — ye, id, san, soo, ou, liev, tc/iee, pa, kieu, she. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Here, having counted ten fingers, we stop, as most i tions do, civilised or savage. The Chinese thus pi ceed, as we do : — she-ye, she-id, she-san, she-soo, she-oif, shedhi, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, IG, she-tehee, she-pa, she-kieu, id-she, ul-she-ye, &c., to 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, san-slie, san-she-id, He. ; 30, 31; and thus till they reach 100, which is pei, peHH',i and so advance to 1000, which is tsien, &c. I have heard it said, that such a language is incapal of being reduced to anything like grammar rules. Tt refinement of grammar they have not, but enougli : [CiiAp.i: /ersatioii \m\. osyllabic sou: ;wenty to tliir representd: id is the sait, s to doubt, t; d says foo-A iiing. Tho s: men were toi men nianv, ' ukii to-nionoit is day go ; m,. : go). Imost impossi! ust of nt'cosr r instance, i: kieu, she. 9, 10. top, as most i: Jhinese thus ji •ou, she-lu'ii, 5, 10, she-yo, &c., to 21, 3 peiy pei-yi', i: | &c. Liage is incapal mar rules. Tt , but enoujili: v.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 127 '■ • t 1 I ve the purpose of a population of many hundred llioiis. For instance, take the personal pronouns go, t(i, I, thou, he; (/o-nmn, ne-mim, ta-nmn, we, ye, \y ; that is, I many, thou many, he many. Of the ins substantive they form the adjective, thus mjai, e, by adding tie is ivjaitiCy lovely or loveliness ; moi, luty, moit'u', beautiful. The verb, too, is partially lijugatcd. The word ngai (or gai) signifies not only le, but to love : go, ne, ta, gai, I, thou, he, loves ; go \ii (/ai, I loved or did love ; go you gaiy I shall or love. [n the construction and arrangement of the written kractor I have said there is nuieh ingenuity dis- lyed, and the combination of the keys with the vast ly of the language, according to the lines or strokes of [h character, is methodically admirable, and affords a it help for a student to acquire the language ; but want of connection between the sense of the key that of the character, which is almost generally |[locted, shows a great lack of skill in the framers of language, and is a great discouragement to the iy of it. (n the arrangement of the keys, which we have called \ genera, and the characters with which they are com- bed the species, nothing can be better. Being classi- according to the strokes which each contain, be- liiig with number one in each class and order, an lex of the keys in the dictionary poini^s out the page diich each of them will be found, and proceeding jressively according to the number of strokes, the racter wanted is immediately discovered. i'lie notion of the Chinese characters being similar •'• li • ;.>■ :' 128 F ' i!L OF MACARTNEY'S [Ciup,: to the Egyptian hieroglyphics seems first to have 1^ derived from a supposed hust of Isis found at Tin whereon were a numher of lines and figures resoiiiiji writing — which, having once concluded that tlicy\\> Egyptian, nuich resemhling the Chinese characttr, was inunediately set down, that the Chinese chavaetr must be derivatives from the Egyptian hieroglypli: between which, in point of fact, there is not the sliglitr resenddance.* To strengthen this conjecture it wast supposed, from some old Chinese writings, that tk | language was originally the picture of ideas and scmM objects. Thus, it is said, the sun Q jci; ban li^ changed to "^ ; the moon J^ i/ik', to fa ; a liil! mountain Q^ s/tan, to /n ; the eye ^^ inoi', i This, perhaps, may to a certain extent have been: case, but it nuist have preceded the time of Coiifm;. or 550 years bef()re Christ. Of the literature of the Chinese, I can say iiotliii. but Sir John Davis, in his excellent work called 'I Chinese,' will satisfy the inquirer on that and on of; subjects of science and the arts.l The late Sir Gcu-: Staunton has observec^ that "One of the most rciiia: able national peculiarities of the Chinese is their aili tion to letters, the general prevalence of literary ha among the middling and higher orders, and tlievt honourable pre-eminence which, from the most reii;: periods, has been universally conceded to that d: * ' Lottre (le Peking,' by a Jesuit IMissionary, 1773.— i^liii pliical Transactions, vol. 59. f ' The Cliinese : a General Description of the Enijjire of C and its Iniiabitants,' 2 vols. 183G. itri pevfi a Paw lale let in 01 ilia rd. .1 r [Ciup.:: to havclx: and at Tut: res rcsonill. that tlicy we e chavaetev, tiese cliavactf liieroglyplv. lot the sliiilit- ;tiirc it was a; ings, that tfc iRS and sen£ \ je(', has lie ^ ; aliili t have been: le of CoiitW,. an say notliii, ork caUrd '1 lat and on (^ ! hite Sir On: he most rciiii: se is their ii(k )f literary lif. rs, and tlievt the most rcii: ed to that t- ary, ITTS.-W- tlio Empire of 1^ kcT. V.T EMBASSY TO CHINA. 129 hich is exchisively devoted to literary pursuits." The horisms or moral maxims of Confueius, greatly ex- Intled since his time, are trite and unexceptionable, soinbling very nmch tho=!e in the Book of the isdoni of Solomon. They have histories of trans- tions and events in the different dynasties, besides eral general histories of the empire. They have regular civil and penal code: of the latter, called Ta-tshig leu-lee, the present Sir George Staunton given a translation. It embraces minutely the asure of punishment for every offence ; yet, large the volume is, he says the nund^er of different cha- tcrs employed are short of 2000. Father Premare some others who have written on the language , that 4000 characters are more than necessary for y purpose.* avis has entered fullv on the state of their drama, jtry, and pr.*se fiction. In the library of the East ia Company there are no less than 200 volumes of s. A single work in forty volumes contains 100 trical pieces. We had temporary theatres erected everal of tlie cities at which we made any stay, but afforded little anuisement ; the actors speak with awling, whining voice, half singing, half crying; the ale parts are performed generally by boys and etinies by eunuchs : they have no change of scene, one open stage answers for every purpose. It is on naked wooden stage that the general brandishes his d, strides three or four times round ; and while he iJIy MS. Dictionary lias 909 pages, each containing exactly 9 dltiartors, or 8181 in tiie whole, besides the 214 keys, one half of ^lic'li can bo of little or no use, from their very complicated coiMtructinn. ^0 • ! 1, ;! \ 'l|i \t r . I I .' ■■■• ». . . lii H 130 EARI. OF MACARTNEYS [ClIAl' thus frets and struts his tour upon the stage, a lior rible crash of what they call music '* Kends with tremeiiilous sounds your ears asunder, Witli gongs, drums, trumpets, blunderbuss and thunder;" after which he stops short and tells the auuiuiice his conquests. Many of their plays are not devoid of interei Preniare was the first to translate some of them. H. translation of the Orphan of Chaou supplied Voltai: with materials for one of his best tragedies — X' Orpk de la Chine. There \s one mentioned by Davis, which displs: strong feeli: gs, as well in the female as in the male pri: cipal characters. In the weak periods of the Cliiiiti government, previous to the first conquest by t: Mongols, the emperor falls in love with a Cliiut beauty, whom he makes his princess. A traitori minister escapes from confinement and goes over tot: Tartar camp, describes to the khan the beauties oft; princess, and advises him to demand her from tiiet: peror — the khan dispatches an envoy to say, that if: refuses, his hills and his rivers shall be exposed to ravj; The Tartar arrives, the weakness of the emperors: the persuasion of his ministers induce him to surreoc the princess, but he insists on accompanying her pan | the way. The parting scene, we are told, has coi derable interest, and the language of the imperial lo is passionate to a degree that a foreigner is not [ pared to expect. Davis must tell the rest : — " Then at length comes the catastrophe. The T;: retires with his prize, until they reach the banks nl river Amoor, or Saghalien. " Princess. — What place is this? i , li I. V,| KMHASSY TO CHINA. 131 ider, id thunder;" iG auaicuce. d of iiitert; of them. H: aplied Voltair which displa; 11 the male pti: of the Cliiiie onquest by t: with a Chine 5. A traitori. goes over tor. e beauties of i: her from tkt: to say, that if; exposed to rava; the emperor 5! him to surreii mying her par e told, has cos the imperial lo eigner is notf Q rest :■ — 'ophe. The la: ;h the baulks of j{/,aii. — It is the river of tlie Bhick Dragon, the 'oiiticr of the Tartar territories and those of China, 'he southern shore is the emperor's, on the northern c commences om' Tartar dominion. " /'rincass (to the Khan). — Great king, I take a p (if Avine, and pour a libation towards the wuth — my t farewell to the emperor ! [pours the libation~\. Sove- |ign of Hun, this life is finished : I await thee in the ixt! AVith these words she throws herself into the river, id perishes." There is another tragedy, in which the scene between clianl [II. and the Lady Anne is so closely repre- ted, that one might almost suppose Shakespeare read the Chinese plays. In many others it may be 11, that the women are not so detlcient in the qua- ies of mind, or so much set aside by the men, as is erallv thouuht to be their lot. .'he Chinese have also their pantomimes. Lord oartuey, in mentioning the theatrical entertain- jlnts given atGehol,* says, " Last of all was t^^ ^ grand toniime. It seemed to me, as far as I coidd compre- id it, to represent the marriage of the Ocean and the ■th. The latter exhibited her various riches and pro- itions — dragons and elephants and tigers, and eagles ostriches; oaks and pines, and other trees of dif- int kinds. The Ocean was not behindhand, but ed forth on the stage the wealth of his dominions, Mcr the figures of whales and dolphins, porpoises and tlians, and other sea-monsters, besides ships, rocks, is, sponges, and corals — all performed by concealed , who were quite perfect in their parts, and per- * -Journal of an Embassy, &c. K 2 1 ■ , • • "' iir.i'l 'I I!.! « '. il: •I'iK • •> ■-:■?; |g| 132 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [(-'llAI', formed their characters to admiration." His Lordsli:; then says, that these two marine and land regiment alter parading the stage in a circular procession, joiiif: their forces, came to the front of the stage, perforiiit a few evolutions, and then opened to the right, '•; give room for the whale (who seemed to be the coi: nianding officer) to waddle forward, and who, takit, his station exactly opposite to the Emperor's bii spouted out of his mouth into the pit several tons water, which quickly disappeared through the pe forations of the floor: and the ejaculation was roceivt with the highest applause." He adds, that most oft: mandarins present were Tartars. In works of fiction — as moral tales, romances, a: novels — the Chinese may be said to excel ; and, bei exclusively Chinese, these may be regarded as cc; taining true pictures of Chinese life and of the state society as it really exists ; they are therefore vtr popular. Their proficiency in a variety of arts is well kiiOT in Europe by the specimens imported from China. I wood and ivory carvings, in the latter more particularl their skill is unequalled. In the manufacture of por lain and of silk they are still unrivalled. There every reason to believe they were the inventors ofgii powder, and of the compass; also of printing, witlit: materials ink and paper; in the various kinds of: latter, and the modes of its decoration, we have not; ^ been able to compete with them. In the fine art-, they are understood by us, they are deficient; tt painting and sculpture are indifferent ; but their geiit tact at imitation would seem to require only a Ir instruction to ensure their success in both. romances, a: BCT. V.J EMBASSY TO CHINA. 133 From the intercourse I had with all ranks, I should !iy that the natural faculties of a Chinese mind are f)f le lirst order, hut heing misdirected in youth, and con- iL'd and confirmed to one fixed and unalterable course irougli life, which no exuberance of talent can ven- ire to turn into a new channel, no progressive im- rovenicnt can therefore be looked for, in moral or ivsical knowledge — no discovery in arts or science, [he man, who would rise to eminence in the state, must erfcct his knowledge in the moral maxims of Con- Icius, published above five hundred years before the [rth of Christ. They are, nevertheless, a mild and cheerful people, beod' ^^'ly good humoured, and willing to oblige. ilh ot to those of the lowest class who mingle toreigners, but to the respectable class of society ; Id with regard to these and the upper ranks, I must that the impression left on my mind, and mostly the minds of my companions, was — that in our esti- ition of the character of the Chinese, on leaving ]gland, we were far from doing them that justice, ^ich ou a closer acquaintance we found them to serve. t 1 ' MM I li! !^i. ■M • .,* •• ,1 •■' ^. 134 CAl'K OF GOOD HOPE. [Chap. Ill, CHArTER 111. EXCURSIONS IN SOUTHERN AFRICA, ANP KESI DENCE AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. Section I. Introduction — The Karl vj Macartney appointed h vernor of the Cape of Good Hope — Embark vie his Lordship as his Pricate Secretary. On our passage home from China, Sir George Stauiito: always kind and considerate as to what concerned e personally, said that he expected I would make t house my home ; and that Lord Macartney and liic self would find me ample scope for employment, thanked Sir George for this mark of his favoiiii opinion, and for the many acts of kindness bestowed! him, and only hoped he could spare me a fortniulit three weeks to run down to Ulverstone, to see niy[ rents and friends : and after that I should be proud' devote my whole time and best services to himself a: to Lord Macartney. " Go," he said, " by all 11102: and come to us on your return, when my son will as glad to see you as I shall." J therefore availed myself of this first opportunity taking a run down to Ulverstone to see my pan whom I found quite well, and delighted at my - return. It may be supposed that, in this obscure coi of our island, a traveller who had been at Pekiii, '■■ had seen the Emperor of China, would be looked if | as a great curiosity; which 1 certainly seemed to ••• i r Bjjcr. I.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 135 1 "■;! imong the most inquisitive was the old vicar oi* Lldenham, Dr. Baldwin, a very learned, but singular laracter, on whom devolved not only the cure of louls, but also of the bodies of his parishioners : he had Itudied medicine, and thought it his duty to physic gratis 11 who required his aid ; and, it was said, he did not pariiigly, and effected many cures. He was a great Idity, as the following anecdote will testify. Work- ]g in his garden one day, his old servant the beadle, verger, came up hastily to him, calling out, " Sir, |r! you are wanted immediately at the church." On Is arrival, after a hurried walk, which rather put him it of humour, a man and woman, with a small party, resented themselves near the communion-table. The Id vicar, after regarding them well, opened his large 3ok, and without further ceremony began, " I am the ksurrection and the life, saith the Lord." " Sir, sir ! " ries out the verger, " they are come to be married." iMarried ! " says the vicar ; " I am sure, by their )ks, they are more fit to be buried." Dr. Baldwin, notwithstanding all his oddities and lughuess, v;as busily employed at this time in trans- ting into English the Hebrew Bible, with comments ; kd, as he told me, in quarrelling with his publishers venturing to make some suggestion which he dis- Iproved ; as I afterwards understood, he died without Bible having ever made its appearance. He took into a room he called his library, which consisted [one mass of books strewed over the whol^ floor; yet, it appeared, he could lay his hand upon any volume it was asked for. [During my short stay at Ulverstone, at least half the 16 was taken up by visits to Aldenham, some three ■■t'i Ij,: '■'I! i;"| 1 •■.( 4 136 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. [Chap. I or four miles distant, on the shore of Morecanibe Bav The vicar's lady and daughter were well-informed aoc agreeable persons ; but not, as it would appear, quit suited to his taste ; for it happened one day, when I was engaged in conversation with the ladies, the olr vicar, half-opening the door, called out, " I want vo. in the library ; don't waste your time with these iros^ ing women." I found he had got hold of Du Ilakk' China; and he kept me a couple of hours at k-asti explaining to him the nature and construction of tli' Chinese language. I had not remained much longer than a Ibrtiiiglit i; Lancashire, when I received an intimation of my pr? sence being required in town, on an occasion not ver difficult for me to conjecture, at least, as to the nature ? the subject. Sir George Staunton had been in coninmr: cation with Mr. Dundas, then Secretary of State font Home Department, who had taken a strong interest: the promotion of the embassy to the Emperor of Cliiiii and was now desirous that the public should be in pi- session of an authentic and circumstantial account of: proceedings, to which Sir George, from the position; held, and the interest he had taken in all that regardr China, was alone capable of doing justice. He s cordingly lost no time in collecting the nccc«a: materials from each of the suit(; who possessed ai and in the arrangement of his plan. Besides sr plying him with a vast mass of observations, aiidn rious and miscellaneous memoranda, which I li not omitted opportunities of making, 1 procured Ir some others their respccti''' j contributions, and point out to Mr. Alexander, from the immense colleetiou sketches that he had njade, such as I thought Sir(jwr. ■m [Chap. Ill, I cecambe Bay, informed ant appear, qui; ! day, ■vvbeiil ladies, the ol; " I want w b these ixossif. )f Du IlaUt. urs at least! truction of tl I a fortnisxlit :; tion of my p^ easion notver to the nature' : 3en in commni:; of State for tt ;rong interest iperor of CIie lould be in p- ial acconnt of: , t]ie position': all that regartk ustice. Ih' « the nccess 3 possessed at: 1. Besides it 'vations, aiuli: a, whieh I t I proeurcd fr ioiis, and pint cnse collection loughtSirCnof^ cr. 1.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 137 tauiiton would wish to have finished for the engraver elucidate and embellish his work, which proceeded Jipidly ; and he particularly desired me carefully to lok over the proof sheets, and to superintend the ^graviiigs, with the assistance of Mr. Alexander, as lented and worthy a man as ever existed, who by merits as a draughtsman, and his numerous and dutiful drawings of all subjects relating to China, was )]) afterwards appointed to the situation of superin- ideiit of the print department in the British Museum. [In 1705, when the official narrative (for so it may be isidered) of the proceedings, and of all the circum- Inccs of Lord Macartney's embassy, by Sir George lunton, was far advanced, the llight Hon. Henry nulas was removed from the Home to the Colonial AVar Department. About this time the Cape of !)od Hope had fallen into our hands, and the new cretary was too sagacious to overlook its vast im- rtaiice to England, Mhich indeed he had publicly lounced, by his declaration in Parliament, that the 8|nis(er who should ever think of giving it up ought lose his head. General Craig, who commanded the )ps at its capture, very j)roperly assumed the govern- liit, and was ably assisted by Mr. Hercules Ross, ^vho accoin])anied hiin as paymaster of the forces ; but Dutch being considered a stubborn race, and Va- Irlaiid having suffered greatly by the English in her le and the capture of her ships and colonies, the )iiists were much out of humour, and refractory. Il^lr. Dundas considered it probable, therefore, that a llian of high rank and character might be more Bptable to the inhabitants of the Cape of Good )c as their governor, than a military officer. His 1 ^! i M -■ ,! i ; : > ■ I 138 CAFE OF GOOJ) HOPE. [Chap, inclination soon pointed out the proper man ; and ai. plication was made by him to the Earl of Macartno to ascertain his feeling on the subject. His Lordsti: had some doubts of his being able to execute the dutit that might be required of him, to his own satisfactio: on account of his liability to gout ; but, after due coni deration, he agreed to accept the offer, on one couditif, only, which was readily acceded to — that he should!. allowed to give up the government to a teniporar successor, after having made his arrangements fort; future conduct of the affairs of the colony ; and pr vided he should find it expedient to return to Englai;; that he might do so without waiting to be superseded, In 1796, Lord Macartney accordingly received H Majesty's commission. He was allowed to take r with him whomsoever he pleased ; and to make >l appointments for carrying on the government, as . should find necessary or expedient, after his arri at the Cape. The only one named in England t, Andrew Barnard, Esq., as colonial secretary ; it took out with him his wife. Lady Ann Barnard, i sister of Lady Margaret Fordyce, both highly diit guished for their talents and social qualities. Soiiit believe, went out on speculation : my time had been | much taken up by the printers and engravers, andoti occupations, that I only knew of those who were tended to go in the same ship with his Lordship, had for some time been domesticated with SirGe«j Staunton, who had purchased a house in Dcvonstl Street, Portland Place. Three days in the week generally, Mr. Staiii;| and I paid our visit to Kew Gardens, to botanise' Aiton's Hortus Kewensis in our hands, which, ins [CHAl'.lll. man*, andaj* of Macartnti, His Lordsk cute the dutit wn satisf'actlo.. after due coii> u one condltE ,at he should!. to a temporar igeuieuts fort olony, andpr ;uru to Englac. be superseded, gly received R wed to take os id to make siic avernuient, as ; after his am in England v. secretary, t Lnn Barnard, i; oth highly disr. ualities. Some rtime had beet igravers, andots lose who were. I his Lordship. ed with Sir Geo;, )use inDcvonil •ally, Mr.Staut| "US, to botanise' finds, which, in? SUUTHEliiN AFiaCA. 139 ture travels in South Africa, was of the greatest ser- ;e to me, Kew being in possession of a largo portion I the flora of the Cape of Good Hope. We examined 3st of the plants in the order of their systeniat'c clas- ^cation, and the only iiiterruption we ever met with la royal one, when George III. and his Queen came, dav, suddenly into the hothouse where we happened [be; and, of course, we retired. [Towards the end of the year 179G, when everything jertaining to the voyage was in a state of forward- it Avas announced that His Majesty's ship frusty,' commissioned by Captain John Osborne, was convey Lord Macartney to his government, and it accommodations were to be prepared for his Lord- and suite, consisting of himself and four gentle- who were as under : — Mr. Maxwell and Mr. Barrow embarked as private retarles. !Iaptain CoUyer (son of Lord Portmore), as his Lord- )'s aide-de-camp. [r. Anguish, brother of the Duchess of Leeds, as a Irate gentleman, to be prov ided for. )tlier officials found their passage in private ships. '^e had, moreover, as passengers in the ' Trusty,' post-captains, about to proceed to take the com- Hd respectively of four of the captured Dutch ships Jaldanha Bay — Captains Burlton, Edwtirds, Lind- and Rowley. Where they were exactly stowed by Captain Osborne I never discovered, but Burl- I M'ho was a noisy, good-humoured, facetious charac- ised to make his appearance on the quarter-deck [morning half-roasted by the heat, jocosely lament- khe condition into which the British navy had fallen '*'• ' • • > i . .1 I ■■•V ,• J ' n 'i I ' • ..* .' 140 CAFE OF GOOD HOPE. LCiui-. 111. i when four post-captains were stowed away and broila on the lower deck of a fifty-gun ship. AVe had, c course, the pleasure of their company at dinner, audi is needless to say, how much they contributed to dim;. nish the tedium of a sea-voyage. Early in January, 1797, we embarked at Portsniouti: and, in going through the Needles, struck upon whi called the bridge, a ledge of rocks running acro'>^, narrow part of the strait. The ship forged over it, k began to leak so nuich as to make our calling at Pit mouth imperative. Everything was removed oufi her, and we took up our lodgings at the Assenili! Rooms, which we found very convenient quarters ; ai here we remained while the ' Trusty ' had her damasr repairing, an operation that consumed something iiu; than a fortnight. Lord Macartney remained durk this time at Mount Edgcumbe. When all was ready for a fresh start we re-enihark and had a pleasant voyage to Table Bay, and i landed, in health and high spirits, in Cape Towiii, the 4th of Mav, 1797. On our landing, however, we found that affairs d not wear the most auspicious aspect; the boors ofti grazing farms of the distant district of Graaff Eeyi; were in a state little short of rebellion. Reckoning up the change of masters, they had maltreated and expcUt both the landrost and the clergyman who had boeiise thither by Sir James Craig. Lord Macartney wast a man to be trifled with. He sent for the two gent: men who had been thus indignantly treated, and « cided at once — in order to sho^v the rebel boors i: | firmness of the British Government — to com})el then; receive with proper apologies for their conduct, and [Chai-. Ill, y and broilts We had,.' dinner, audi' iUted to diiiii. \t Portsnioiii i upon Avhati: ming across 1 ;ed over it, k calling at Plj amoved outc the Asscmu; : quarters ; ai ad her damas oniething mc: 3n\ained dun;; ve re-embarkti 2 Bay, and i Cape Towiit. that atlaivsi ;he boors oft f Graaff Keyi: Eeckoniii[i; ii]>. ted and expcllt 10 had been se acartney wast ' the two geiii treated, and « I rebel boors i: o compel tlieii: conduct, and kcT. I.] SOUTHERN AFRICA. 141 eat with all due respect, the same two functionaries horn they had insolently sent away and whom he had mediately determined to send back. The landrost murred, and said that his life had more than once en threatened, and that he, of course, had no desire return ; and the poor parson had been so disgusted d terrified to such a degree that no consideration, he lid, should induce him ever more to show his face ong such brutes. AVhen Lord Macartney told me the story, he con- ded by saying, " I think, Barrow, you will have no Ejection to accompany one or both of these gentlemen the presence of these savages, which may lead them reflect that it must be out of tenderness to them, that ave preferred to send them one of my own family, her than at once to bring them to their senses by a inient of dragoons. Besides this, I have another tire lor wishing you to accompany them. We are inefully ignorant even of the geography of the iitry ; we have no map that embraces one-tenth part the colony; I neither know nor can 1 learn where Graaft' lleynet lies — whether it is five hundred or oiisand miles from Cape Town. I am further in- led that the Kaffirs, with their cattle, are in posses- of the Zuur-veldt, the finest grazing country in the ny, and that these people and the boors are per- illy fighting and mutually carrying oflf each other's ;le. These matters must no longer be tolerated, and wish is that some adjustment should be made be- en these two people. Now, as information on le and various other points is my object, and my rience assures me that you are the person I most confidently rely on to acquire for me that irmation ; at the same time that I. am fullv aware i-:i \] in M I '. k ■» ' \ 142 ('A1»K OF GOOD HOPE. rci'AP. the mission may not be one of the most agrteat nature, I am sure you will not be unwilling to untie take it." His Lordship certainly could not have proposed an: thing more accordant with my wishes, or more agrtr able to my feelings, than to be the means and to h the opportunity of exploring a most interesting porti of the globe so little, and that little so impertec;; known. Indeed, I was overjoyed to find mvselti; happy individual selected. I felt as if the lessons, had so recently received m the botanical garden Kew, had been taken on purpose to qualify me : exploring the rich forests of ericas and pro teas, audi: plentiful harvest of these and other beautiful plants, tr I knew would be met with in South Africa, ami: viewing them on their native soil. I therefore told; Lordship he could not have conferred on me a grea; favour, and that I should immediately prepare eve thing necessary for the execution of the journey, t be ready to receive his instructions. The only rt^ I felt was the departure from the agreeable and friet; | society of our little party, which was just tlieiif | periencing a heavy and unexpected misfortune, the loss of one of them by an untimely and mej choly death. Mr. Anguish and I lodged in the same house,!:' the parade. One morning I asked if he would e hear the music : he replied, " Yes, I will follow y Parade being nearly ended, and no Mr. Anguisli niij his appearance, I stepped to the house, and kiiod| at the door, which was opened by the daughter family, wringing her hands and weeping bitterly,' claiming, "Osir, Mr. Anguish is dead!" liiii"' ately ran into his room, and to my horror foum I iri I* (CiiAP.ii; iiost agreeal, lling to unilt: I proposed an; or more agR lis and to k cresting porti so imperfect; find myself t if the lessoiif, nical garden , quality me ; proteas, and'; utiful plants, t I Africa, aiitl: therefore toldt | I on me a gres ; y prepare evt: the journey, t The onlyw cable and frieti /as just tlieiii d misfortune. niely and mt same house, s if he would? 1 will ftdlowy: r. Anguish vdi ouse, and Vm\ he daughter ieping bitterly. dead!" I i""^ horror fouml : CT, I.l SOUTHERN AFRICA. Hi the floor in a deluge of blood, and a razor by his ie. A doctor had already been sent for, and came lile I was there ; but the deed had been too effectu- iy done to give the slightest hope of remaining life. [Two days before this, he had told me how very kindly 3rd Macartney had behaved to him ; that he had con- ired on him an appointment of 1000/. a-year, which him nothing more to wish for ; that he was happy irond measure, and relieved from a weight that had oppressed him. He had been extravagant, and jht perhaps have been troublesome to some of the ieds family; but he was remarkably cheerful and reeable on the passage out, and during the short time [the Cape. The morning on which the mournful fcnt took place, he appeared at breakfast in good fits as usual, and all thought him happy. [n concert with Mr. Bresler, the landrost (the son having positively refused to go), I purchased horses, ten oxen, and a boulder-waggon well covered a rounded canvas roof| and fitted my cot inside. f)ok with me a small pocket sextant of Ramsden of r-inch radius, an artificial horizon, a case of mathe- fcical instruments, a pocket compass, a small tele- )e, and a double-barrelled rifle-gun that had be- jed to poor Anguish. The only books I carried nie were Aiton's ' Hortus Kewensis,' and the ' Sys- Xatuiw,' which were of great importance, affording [both comfort and assistance ; some small quantity [iiie and spirits ; but I left the cooking apparatus, utchen utensils, and the table appendages, to the [rost, who had his own two waggons, and a third for kaggage and for the people, his servant and the Hot- )t leaders of the oxen. A black bov and a smart > * i' . '••'■■ i ■ • .1- • • .•■ '1 '•••V .'I -J "1 1 ,.i • v..*-' J 44 ACROSS THE KAKROO. [Ciup.IiL Hottentot took charge of my horses, and sonu' liali dozen Hottentots were engaged to take care of tk oxen. Section II. Expedition to Graaff Iieym% across the Karroo, Great Desert, to the Drosty of Graaff Eeynd. On the evening of the first day of July, the laiulre Bresler, myself^ and our train left Cape Town, •&,. halted on the other side of the Cape Isthmus, iieart! foot of the Tiger Mountain, at a military post, vhe we waited seven hours for the waggons, in which tir they had advanced through the heavy sand only titk miles : having left behind two of the oxen that droppr in the yoke. From a few straggling farm-houses out: skirts of the mountain we got a supply of cattle, thii: and vegetables. About twelve miles in advance we passed Sinioi' berg, whose forked Tarnassian summit was said to frequently hidden in snow. Its name, it seciiis, it: derived, and is perpetuated, from that of an impost who practised on the credulity of the Governor byp: senting to him an irregular mass of silver, which:. pretended to have taken from a rich mine he hadii; \ covered in this mountain. The Governor was enraptured by this rich discovery, that he projiostii council a sum of money to be advanced to Simon, enable him to work the mine ; and, in the mean tk, a chain was ordered to be made of the silver aires: produced, from which the keys of the castle gates ik'. be suspended : where, it is said, the chain still ft lend pa| jultij dl)| |Th| tichi . . 1 [CiiAi'.llLj id some hall 3 care of tit;. he Karroo, if Fet/net, y, the laiulrp po Town, ai ;liuius, iieartl ary post, wk; I, in which tiL and only titk 311 that droppr Ill-houses oil i^ of cattle, Ihii: passed Sinio;.' t was said to; !, it seems,': of an impost Jovernor bvf silver, which ; mine he hade overnor Nvas t he projiostii ;ed to Simon, the mean tit he silver aires: astle gates sk chain still (t IT. 1 1.1 TO GRAAFF KKYNKT. inues its post as a meiiiorial of the credulity of the lovernor and his council. Tiie Paarlberg, in the neighbourhood, is a large mass 'granite, perched ou the summit of a green mountain, fcchly embosomed by a variety of choice flowering irubs ; the tribe of Proteas are most conspicuous on sloping sides; the species mellifera, in particular, arched on the verge of whose vase-shaped corollas may seen two or three species of the little gaudy-plumed rtJda, or creeper, sucking out the honied sweets with leir long sickle-shaped bills. A great variety of heaths re met with here, and indeed almost everywhere in His ])art of Southern Africa ; I believe not fewer ^an 400 species had at this time found their way to tnglaiid. I discovered in pro ceding, that the paucity the human species is amply filled up by the num- er and variety of the brute creation, from the huge lephaut of the forests to the pigmy cavy of the (able ^lountain. Of the genus antelope wc procured, ithin the Cape district, the dui/kcr, the griesbok, and le kUpsprbujcr (the diver, the grizzled, and the rock- iper). As soon as night set in, the howling wolf and yelping jackal filled the air with their hideous and elancholy cries, which continued to pursue us in dark at no great distance from the waggons. The ferior kinds of game appeared in abundance, wherever passed a shrubby tract ; the Cape partridges, seem- jly fearless of man, ran about nearly as tame as lultry in a farm-yard, yet there was no want of hawks Id butcher-birds to feed upon them. [The first shot I fired was at a korhaen^ a fine bird, of ^ich there were great numbers ; it is of the genus or buiitard ; they are wild, and seem to smell L , 'I • ''• "'if' 'i' ■I'l ■ i ': •:W il .> •' . » . til 146 ACUOSS rilK KAIil.'OO ICllAI. jmwdcr, for thry nlvviiys hover over a sportsman at. {;rcat licight ."iiul Ut'cp tbllowiiig- him on the uiiij uttering Ji violent screaming as if to give notice of aj)j)roacli of danger; tliey arc called hy the Diitt'l uiilde pfiHir, or the wild peacock, to which tlicv li.i not the least resend)lance. In a cleft of the mountain called the luunlisui Kloot\ which we had now to pass, we found tin vcwt; tion very luxuriant; the /^rotcas, the Kn'cds, t\\v /iirl,,, Pal ma C/tr/'.sfi, the Mciiaiit/nis, and the Calla Ktliii^jb were most ahundant and in full ilower. (illici- c jects of a less ])leasing nature were the nuiltitiidt bahoons, which, from their concealed dens in tlio siii of the mountains, chattered and laughed, scnaiiii and uttered such horrible noises that we were not sr to get rid of them and of the rocky j)ass at the >i. time. The valley into which we now entered is a tirr. tract, well watered and ])roductive of corn, wine, riiiv and fruits of all kinds, for the table, and for culiiiS' ])urposcs. Gauu' is here plentiful eiu)ugh : buslar: partridges, snipes, ducks, and mountain gecsc. W is also an animal that burrows in the ground, callnl; 'i/Zi'ncark'(', the iron-hog (hystrix cristata), the tic.4 which is esteemed a great delicacy ; the aard-vaii or earth-hog (the Mi/riii('Coj)lim)a Capcnsis), \i] alsov; common, undermines the ground, and sekh)ni appti but in the night. This plain of Roodesand extends about miles, and is iidiabited by about forty families; j soil is fertile, aiid they enjoy a plentiful suppltf game from the siu'rounding hills. Hitherto 1 liaiH^ much gratilied by the great abundance of suIj \('\S\V. I nortsiniiii ati| on tho villi, > notice of m l)y tlu' DukI licli theyk the li'iiiiili'"^' iind t\u V("5t;. r<^s t.^i'-' ^''"''"• er. (>tlu'v i. he niuUitiuk' \eiis in t\\e sill' glicd, screaiM ,-e vvevc not Mir pass at the >a'i iitercil is a ti'it. ovn, wine, vais and tor eiiVnw ain gecst. H'- ground, called; stata), the U the aavd-vnii M<'//N'N),i'5»^''"« nd sehUnn M' x'\\i\s about tortv ianiili^^-: plentiivil suvpl|i litherto I i>rt'^'^^ r. II.I TO (iUAAFF I(i:ym;t. IJT nidancc ol i\k natinvil liistory, constantly occnrring hotli in the ortablc! and animal kin^^doin; the ibrnier has sui)- Ijod tlie gardens and {^reenhonses of England with inie of their choicest Howering plants: erica, jn-otea, lirdonia, horbonia, gorteria, gnaphaliuni, xeranthe- linn, ;nid a mnltitude of other genera, ann)ng which species pecnliar to the Cape. Of the protea, the; ^lortns Kewensis ' describes twenty-four species, of lich I iind eleven species marked in the margin, as niijj; been seen by me in this district. [At tiie head of the Ilex lliver valley, we were to ce leave of every human habitation for at k'ast six- ^n (lays, the usual time recpiired to cross the dreary barren desert known by the name of the (ireat (irroo, on which nothing, as I was informed, is to had except ostrich eggs and antelopes. It was krefore necessary to lay in a supply of provisions; still more so of fresh oxen, which recpured two days [provide. We were here joined by two grazing iiers of (Jraatf lieynet, as arranged; each of them a wagii'on and a numerous family of children, tteutots, and Kaffirs. We proceeded on the 12th I Illy, ascended the last nu)untain which skirts the Brt, and which might be supjjosed to rise to the height 3ont ioOO feet in the distance of six miles. Beyond le face of the c(mntry presented a new aspect : an 3rHdy rugged surface on every side, no diversity of cts, no hills clothed with verdure, no traces of man, tree, not a shrub, a})peared to break the uniformity 10 surftice, not a bird or a beast to enliven the ry waste. A little vegetation— stunted, shrivelled, ^red thinly over a hard surface of brownish clay, chiefly of the succulent tribe : the mesembrv- I, 2 " . I • . .: ^ i ■ < •ii 148 ACROSS THE KAHROO [Chap. III. antheinum, euphorbia, cotyledon, and crassuk, of all which the Cape herbarium contains a multitude of species, not less than seventy of the first mentioned. Thermometer at sunrise 33", in the evening down to the freezing-point ; in the sun 80°, in the shade 55". On the 14th, we halted near a small spring, its mar- gin affording a few rushes and succulent plants. A Cape butcher enlivened our encampment with about 500 head of cattle and 5000 sheep, which he had purchased in the Sneuwberg ; the former miserably poor, the latter in pretty good condition. On the 15th, at the Riet Foil- tyn, or Reed Spring, we met with a thicket of doom- hooniy or thorn-tree, a species of mimosa, armed from its summit to the ground with enormous double thorns: on decent soils it forms to most animals an impenetrable thicket. The following day brought us to the bed of the Buffalo River, fifty yards in width, with scarcely water enough to form a rill : the desert around us more sterile and naked than before ; the leaves of the few plants so shrivelled up as to give no signs of life. Ten miles further was a small rivulet surrounded by a flat sandy marsh overgrown with rushes, amidst springs impregnated with salt ; the salsola, or saltwort, wa.s growing here in great abundance: patches of naked sand were partially covered with a powdery substance not unlike snow; by boiling some, mixed with the sand, I procured crystals of pure prismatic nitre. From the ashes of the salsola and the atriplex albicans almost all the soap used in the colony is made. The Riet-berg, or Reed-hill, to the southward of our track, had so tempting an appearance, that I deter- mined to go out of our direct line (there was no path) to enjoy the beautiful contrast. Once fairly off tlif I ^'le; ''xccci Sect. IL] TO GRAAFF REYNET. 149 J ti Karroo, our road lay through clusters of crassulas and aloes, the latter rising above all others in spikes of blood-red blossoms not less than fifteen feet in height. Beyond this flowery ridge, we had to cross six or seven I miles over a naked plain, when we encamped on the *| Wolga Fontyn, where was another range of hills co- ^1 vered with frutescent plants ; here we started a herd of ; fourteen large buffaloes that had been rolling in the ' spring. For three days' journey the surface had en- tirely changed, and had become finely marked alter- nately with bold hills, plains, gradual swells, and hollows, mostly covered with a forest of shrubbery; but an inconvenience was strongly felt, for want of space to bind up the oxen, and for the tents and waggons; worst of all, however, for want of water, which the cattle had tasted only once in three days — the thermometer generally from 75° to 80" in the shade; nor were they safe in this dense forest, where beasts of prey appeared to be numerous. We had on every side a nocturnal concert of the roaring of lions, the bellowing of buffaloes, the howling of wolves, and the yelping of jackals, to which was joined the timid lowing of our oxen. Among the low hills which surround this place we met with a small herd of zebras and quachas, both animals exceedingly wild, and the former very fero- cious. The Dutch boors have no interest, and it may be added, neither the temper nor the patience re- ([uired to tame them, yet it has been done. I saw at the landrost's of Zwellendam, a male and female zebra, i that, while young and attended to, were mild and do- - file ; but by neglect, and ^>robably teasing, had become f exceedingly vicious. I was there told that one of the I '■ rr. i*;i!i !-*li 150 AClfOSS THE KAKKOO [Chap. Ill, ^ : ■ ,.. 8th Dragoons persisted in mounting the female; she kicked and plunged, and threw herself down, but the man kept his seat till the enraged animal, taking a leap from the high bank of the river, threw both herself and her rider into the water ; but the soldier, still kcepinn; hold of the bridle, was dragged by the zebra to the shore, where, walking up quietly to him, she put her head down to his face and completely bit oft' his car. Some of the bystanders enjoyed the joke, and others condoled with the sufterer : "Now," said Pat, "its just nothing at all, it will soon grow again." Among the divers animals about this place were several ostriches, and one of our Hottentots found a nest full of eggs, and brought us a couple ; he plaeed them in hot ashes, and by a small hole made in the end, stirred round the contents till they had accpiired the consistence of an omelet, and certainly a better omelet never was eaten. Yerv often, in the course of my long journeys over the wilds of Africa, have 1 fbiiiid an ostrich-egg thus prepared an excellent repast, and fully sufficient for two persons. On the 1 7th, we proceeded about twenty-four mile? over a rising country, but altogether barren, except that here and there were straggling over the surface a few species of the mesembryanthemum ; and among them large patches of the curious and elegant ice-plant. At night the thermometer was down to the freezing-point. The Black Mountains, hfteen miles to the southward, were white with snow. The nights, indeed, from onr iirst entering upon the Karroo Desert, had been so in- tensely cold, that our horses, accustomed to the stal)Ie, had become sick and low-spirited, and two of them died this dav under the severitv of the weather, a third had SliCT. II.] TO GllAAFF UEYNET. 151 ;-'s a narrow escape ; several of the oxen had perished, but rather from want of food and water than from the coldness of the nights. On the 18th, we encamped on the Dwyka, or Rhino- ceros liiver, finding a few streandets creeping over its bed. Though every part of the surrounding country was destitute of vegetation, a thick forest of mimosa covered the banks of this river, and followed it through all its windings. Twenty miles, on the 19th, brought us to the (jilKunka, or Lion's liiver, the whole of this distance being as level as a bowling-green, consisting of a hard comjjaet bed of clay, tinged with iron. Not a swell to interrupt the line of the horizon, which was as un- broken as that seen over the surface of the sea ; in vain did the eye wander in search of tree or lofty shrub, or blade of grass, or living creature. The baidvs of the Ghamka, like those of the Dwyka, brought us some small relief from the horror of the land of utter desolation, over which we had just passed ; here, too, we had plenty of hares, partridges, mountain-geese, and wild-ducks to feed upon. It may be thought, perhaps, that the time hung heavily on the mind during this long and dismal journey. Not in the least, as far as I \vas concerned ; whenever a hill or a distant mountain was visible, I took its bearing, and noted the hour at the time, and having })roceeded to a given distance, pretty well ascertained by the regularity of the oxen's rate of travelling, I again intersected the line of bearing of the same moun- tain ; thus, together with the observed altitude of the sun at noon — by the artificial horizon when the natural one was uneven — I had the materials noted down for * . V" j • ', I' ' !lHi', 'IS' ^' k i M 152 A(nK)SS TllK KAKKOO LCuAi-.m. tmnsforriiig tlieiii to my chart, which I iiivar'uihly kept in all my travcLs, with as much accuracy as circum- stances would allow; and this, with my note-book, occupied a j)art of the evenings in my tent. At our last station we learned Ironi our accompaiiy- ing boor, that at the distance of twelve miles to the southward, at the kloot^ or entrance to the Zwarteljcrji Mountains, we should find a farm-house, and otlicrs farther on, which were within the district of (J matt' lleynet; the landrost, therefore, thought it might ho worth while to go somewhat out of our way, for the chance of procuring the loan of fresh teams of bullocks, many of ours having died, others being lefl to perish in the desert, and the rest so exhausted by the effects of cold, of bad water, and little food, as not to be likely to hold out the remaining part of the Karroo. We tlurc- fore })roceeded ; hut before reaching the kloofj a party, juounted on horseback, were observed to be making tor the waggons in full gallop. On comrng up to the first, they stopped short and fired a discharge of nuiskctrv; loaded again, and proceeded in succession to evcrv waggon ; and then set oft' at full gallop hack by the same way they had approached, and were out of sight in a few minutes. This mananivre was interpreted to be a salute in honour of the landrost ; and, moreover, as a change of sentiment or conduct — at least, of this portion of the Graaft'-lleynetters. We found here not only a friendly reception, hut refreshments of all kinds; wine very tolerable, fruits of various kinds and of good quality, vegetables luxuriant, and cauliflowers measuring eighteen inches in diameter. The mistress of the nuuision, at the age of sixty, \\w mother of sixteen children, was a tall, straight, well- Sect, 11,| TO GllAAFK KEYNKT. 153 > ' looking: woman, and all the males were above the com- iiioii size. The effcict u})()n ns of such a change, from starvation to abundance, may easily be conceived, l)ut this was not all ; we here completed (mr stock ofj)ro- visioiis, and, having procured the loan of sixty stout bullocks, proceeded, on the 23rd, nearly thirty miles, to Sloutel Fonteyn: and, on the following day, en- camped on thcTraka lliver, which, however, contained little water, and that little both muddy and salt, its hanks being covered with a pellicle of nitre, out of which was growing abundance of the salsola plant. At sunrise, thermometer five degrees below freezing- point. On the 25th we reached the Great Loory Fonteyn ; small quantities of water in holes, muddy, salt, and hitter. As the oxen had obtained no food out the shrivelled leaves or stems of the mesend)ryanthenmm, our journey was continued, though in the dark, in search of some better place for refreshing the cattle. A little clump of mimosas and salsola were met with at the l^ittle Loory Fonteyn. We advanced about thirty miles the follow! Jig day, over a naked surface of solid clay, and late at night pitched our tents in the midst of a meadow covered com})letely with herbage knee-deep. This sudden transition from unbounded barremiess to luxuriant vege- tation had nuich the same effect on our hungry cattle, as our deviation from the desert to Zwarteberg's friendly jjt'ople had upon us. The oxen, in their impatience, made no small havock in liberating themselves from their yokes and traces, to glut their em})ty stomachs with food. This place is named De Beer Valley, and is the recipient of small rivers from three several groups • ■ M 154 ACROSS THE KAKIIOO [C'llAP. Ill, of mountains. Here, too, was plenty of game : tlu'ec species of antelope : the spring-bok, or pijgnrga ,• the genis-bok, or oryx ; the koodoo, or iitri/>sicc'ros. The spring-bok is always met with in large herds; the peasantry will tell you, to the luunber sometimes of ten thousand, which is absurd ; but in the course of iny travels in South Africa I have met with a herd not much less, if at all, than a thousand ; they will also tell you, that he will spring at a leap from fifteen to five- and-twenty feet ; the hair on the rump, at every spring, sheds back on each side, and displays a surface of snowy whiteness. The gems-bok is a beautiful crea- ture, and of larger size tlnn the former ; it is also the least timid of the antelope tribe, so that if closely pressed or wounded, it will sit down on its haunches and keep both sportsman and dogs at bay ; in ikf'eiice it strikes back its long straight-pointed horns, making it dangerous to be approached. The koodoo, on the con- trary, thongh nearly the largest, is the most timid of ti:e family ; its body is marked with transverse white stri})es on a bluish ground, its fine long horns are twisted in a spiral form, a black mane adorns its neck, and along the spine is a ridge of black hairs. Our cattle having refreshed themselves with tlic herbage and mimosa leaves of this valley, we advanced about twenty miles to the Hottentot Kiver, containiiii.' a little muddy water. Here, however, we were met by some inhabitants of Camdeboo, a district of (iraalf Reynet, who, being a})prised of the approach of the I landrost, had come a journey of two days, bringing witli them several teams of large fat (ixen, to convey hiiutnl the Drosdy, where, he was informed, the well-disposeil ])art of the district were anxiously expecting him. i *< i!\t Skct. II.] TO GRAAFF llEYNET. 155 On the 28th, our tents were pitched at the Poort, or narrow pass through a ridge of hills that stretch across the desert from the mountains of Camdehoo. Beyond this pass we had hoped to get rid of the interminable Karroo, but were disappointed. Twelve miles beyond it brought us to the first habitation, ten miles in advance to the second ; fifteen miles beyond that to the third, which was the last that occurred till we had reached the Drosdy, and distant from it ten miles. It was late in the evening of the 30th before we arrived at this village, at the entrance of which the landrost was received by a body of the boors on horse- back, M'ho welcomed him, in their usual manner, by a discharge of several platoons of musketry. The month of July was thus wholly expended in travelling about five hundred miles, of which sixteen or seventeen days were spent in crossing the dreary Karroo desert, whose width may be estimated to extend, from east to west, about three hundred miles, two-thirds of which, at least, I traversed on foot, with mv little rifle in mv hand, tliough game of any kind was so scarce as to be found only in the neighbourhood of the springs. My travelling companion was not very brilliant, or very active : he stuck to his waggon nearly the whole journey, but spurred on his Malay cook in tic pre- paration of our evening's repast; while I, in a sepa- rate tent, wrote out the minutes of the day's journey, and laid down our route on the chart, as r.lready men- tioned. The first business of the landrost was to call a meet- ing of the inhabitants, to read to them his commission, to administer the oath of allegiance to his Majesty, to -I'-! I .> .' » . 156 ACROSS THE KAIIKOO [Chai-. 111. appoint members of the Council, and to explain to them the views and intentions of the British Government, as intended to be pursued by his Excellency the Lord Macartney, who had arrived at the Cape, and assumed the government of the colony ; that in addition to his (the landrost's) instructions, he had sent his own secretary, as a proof of the interest he took in the affair? of the colony, who would explain for their guidance the various points of the instructions that might be thought to require explanation ; that he was directed to declare to them a general amnesty for the grave offences that had been committed by certain ill-disposed or mistaken persons, and that even to the offenders themselves he was authorised to hold out the olive- branch. They all seemed to be nmch pleased, and departed to their homes, cordially shaking hands with the land- rost and myself There was, however, a party under the influence of a clever but mischievous boor, who at night, for the purpose of intimidation it was supposed, had assembled at a sort of tavern in the village, not far from the landrost's house, and whose noise, shouting, singing, and firing of nmskets, gave great alarm to Mr. Bresler, who wished me to find out or see what they were really about. I tried to persuade him that it wis nothing more than an ebullition of joy at his return, and for the general amnesty announced. To ease his mind, however, I set off at once, entered the room where they were assembled, and said I re- joiced to find them so merry. They were extremely civil, made me sit down and drink a sopie (a dram of Schiedam) with them, and professed much friendship for Mm" !' v.: i\. ■ " •/ / !i skct, n.i TO GHAAFF KEYNKT. 157 the English ; but they assured nie they had many "•rievances, which they wished me to know. Unable, from the little Dutch I had yet acquired, to listen or reply to what they had to state, I made them under- stand that, if they would put down in writing what they had to say, and send it to nie, I would pledge myself that their grievances would be talon into immediate consideration, and, if possible, redressed. With this thev a])pearcd fully satisfied, and cheered me vocife- rously. I shook hands with all, and departed. The paper came in the course of the following day, and the only grievance was, that the Kaffirs had in- vaded their district with three or four thousand head of cattle, and that the acting landrost had not conde- scended to give any answer to a requisition made for a commando — that is, a detachment of fiirmers to make war upon the Kaffirs, and take away their cattle. The fact was that the acting landrost had the office thrust upon hiui by these very people — a weak man, who dared not to give a refusal, and had not the courage to tell them that their old landrost, whom they had ex- pelled, was on his way to resume his office, and that they must wait his arrival. In my reply to the paper, I told them that my in- structions from the Governor were to accompany the huulrost to the part of the district where the Kaffirs had located themselves, and to endeavour to persuade them to retire across the boundary into their own country, and that it was hoped we should prevail upon them to do so ; but that it was the decided determina- tion of the Governor to put an end to those conimandos^ Avhich had caused so nmch bloodshed and ill-feeling on jthe part of those who were at least disposed to be 1.-H' ■ll! 'm • ,.^ .• WW ^ ^ 158 KXPEDITION TO TIIK ZUUIIK-VKLDT H'llAP. Ill peaceable; and, moreover, that the general opinion of their own countrymen, at the Cape and southern dis. tricts, was, that the plunder of the Kaffirs' cattle vas the main object of these hostile expeditions. Section III. Expedition to the Zimre- Veldt and K.iffir-Land, The landrost having settled affairs in this part of his district, I arranged all matters relating to our intended expedition to the southward, where the Kaffirs liad posted themselves ; and I laid out the route of our journey, according to the information I could collect. All things being prepared, on the llth of Augnst m departed from Graaff Key net, our party consisting ut Mr. Bresler and myselfj our two servants, and at least half-a-dozen Hottentots, besides an old Hottentot wlio could speak the Kaffir language ; the two henn-aadoii (or councillors), with their servants, waggons, and oxen, and I know not how many Hottentots — more perluipj of all kinds than were necessary, as we were now mostly to travel through an inhabited part of the country, I Our route was S.S.E. as far as Zwart-Kopi Baj, ai thence westerly to the Zuure- Veldt, of which the Kaffirs I had taken possession; and from thence N.W. into Kaffir-Land, and to the residence of the King.* * Having', in my two volumes, wliicli passed tlirougli two oii tions, entered into so minute a detail of the nature of the couiitn, its inhabitants, Duteh, Kaffirs, Hottentots, and IJosjesnien, I sliaii on tlie present occasion confine my notices to a glance merely of tli objects which tiiis part of the country aflTords, and to the transit' tions and occurrences connected vvitii'the present expedition. ,iifi n IS' Ill.i AM) KAFFlIi-LAM). 151) \Vc passed through Caiiuloboo, the first portion ol' which was as sterile as the great desert; hut it improved as we proceeded. The bullocks were large, and in ex- cellent order; and the broad-tailed sheep were in fair condition. Springboks and ostriches were abundant, mid Me ])rotited by both of them. We also saw in the course of the day a gnu, a hartebeest, and a quacha. The two following days we had again to croGs a por- tion of country equrdly bad as the Karroo, but of a different nature. It is called the Zwaart liuggens, or Bhiek Eidges. Excepting a small plain, on which we ; encamped, there scarcely occurred, in the distance of f: f()rty miles, a hundred yards of level ground. The ? road, of course, was execrable : the ridges requiring to i he constantly ascended or descended were besides ;U covered with large fragments of loose stones. In other ||])laccs the waggons had to l)e dragged over ledges of |4iirni rock. Besides this, we had to cross the Sunday iliiver nine times since our departure — every time in Iperil of overturning the waggons. These ridges and vpedsfes, however, did not prevent the luxuriant growth ||oft\vo species of euphorbia: one, scarcely rising above |he surface, encloses a milky fluid, not less than a pint, Ivihich tlie farmers assured us was eagerly devoured by Ihe cattle, and made them fat. It is used also for •greasing the axles of their waggon-wheels. On the 14th, we passed through an opening in a lid'/e of hills, called the Poort, the approach to which IS more beautiful than anything I had yet seen. For ree or four miles the road over which we had passed l?as through clusters of crassidas and aloes, the latter isiiig above all other shrubs in spikes of blood-red jlossoms, to the height of fifteen feet, just as we had .■•'•I m '1 .,' ri' 100 KXI'KDITION TO TIIK ZLU'HK-VKF.D'r U'llAC. seen them on our journey to (iraaff Reynet. In Jact, we were now on a portion of the same eountry, uiul of tlie same ri(l^;es ot'liills, as hefore described. On quitting tliis forest of most beautiful and luxu- riant shrubbery, at least thirty miles in extent, I (i served, at a little distance, a whole line of strelit/ias in lull Hower, which, on approaching, 1 was pleased to find were not of the species regina>, but a new specks (at least in Enj;land), with ])ointed instead of ^mm- shaped leaves, and from six to ten feet long. I pro cured half a dozen roots for the botanical garden at the Cape, whence the plant was sent to England ; but 1 have not happened to meet with any one of tlieiii in our hot-houses. On the evening t)f our esca])e from the shrubbery, we encam})ed on the verdant l)ank of a beautiful lake. of an oval tbrm, about three miles in circumference, the water perfectly clear, but as salt as brine. Tlie bottom was one continued body of salt, like a sheet of ice — a mass of crystals as hard as rock. Here w found a peasant encamped on the green bank, with liii whole family of sons and daughters and grand-cliildreii, men, cows, sheep, and dogs. He stated that two ofliis horses had, in the j)receding night, been devoured k lions; that these treacherous animals, like the rest d! the feline tribe, lie in ambush till they can securely pounce U])on their prey. While we were here, one of the farmer's Hottentots brought down a large male buffalo (Bos Caffer), the strongest and the fiercest o( the bovine genus. Its immense horns are so broad at the base as to leave only a narrow channel down tk forehead ; and this is said to fill up with age, giving t' the animal a front of horn as hard as rock. The lioi Strr. IM.l AND KAFFIR-LAND. IG] soiiR'tiiiU's attacks the buffalo, hut always l)y stratagem, and f;c,'iicrally succeeds. Our next halt was on the shore of Alpoa Bay, which the Dutch nanu!<l Zwart Kop's Jiay, from the river of that iiiiine, which Hows into it. We found 1 1. M.S. 'Hope' iit anchor in the hay, having,' heeii sent expressly l)V Admiral I'riiifjjle to meet us; and here we remained a ti'W (lavs to examine, and make observations on, the bay and the surroundini^? country. In Lieutenant Kice I found an expert and intellip;ent gentleman ; and on my proposal we agreed to take advantage of thus iiicctiug, to ascertain by lunar distanc(!S the latitude and longitude of the best ancliorage. lie had already ohtiiiiied the latitude of the landing-place, which I took several occasions to repeat, and found to be 33^ 50', the same as that of the anchorage in Table Bay; and this result occasioned some sur[)rise, as all the old charts made the trending of the land nearly N.E. from the Cape L'Aguillas to Algoa J5ay, whereas, hy our observations, the said Cape and Algoa JJay are not more than E. by N. of each other. The land, therefore, from the Cape to Algoa Bay, juts out into the sea tar beyond what was supposed, and laid down in the charts ; and it was probably owing to the want of this knowledge that the unfortunate loss of the ' Grosvenor,' East Indiaman, may be ascribed. On the western part of Algoa Bay, where the landing- Iplacc was pointed out, as being the most practicable and secure, a beautiful verdant terrace of grass and shrubby clumps extended about a quarter of a mile along the :oast, but elevated above it, and enclosed on its northern lide by a bushy ridge. It ap])eared to me so lovely a spot, and so delightfully situated, that I was tempted to M 'i,,' I'i ♦^ ' \ 162 EXPEDITION TO THE ZUURE-VELDT [Chap, III, declare I would erect there my baaken, or landmark, and solicit from the Governor possession of it, either as a free gift or by purchase. Future events, however, put an end to this speculation ; and I understand that now a whole line of houses and gardens occupy my enviable terrace. At the distance of fifteen miles, which I rode over, to the westward of the bay, and close to the sea -shore, I was agreeably surprised to meet with an extensive forest, of many thousand acres, covered with trees of various kinds and dimensions, the most common apparently being the gecl-hoiit, or yellow wood ( Taxus elongatus) ; many of the trees rose to the height of thirty or forty feet without a branch, with a trunk of ten feet in diameter. Next in size was the yzei\ or iron-Mond {fiideroccyloii) \ hassagai-lwut {Curtisia far/mea). This beautiful tree is used for the naves and spokes of waggon-wheels. Siink-Jioiit takes its name from an offensive odour which it exhales while green, but Avliidi goes off entirely with age. It is by many degrees tlie best wood produced in the colony, and well calculated for use in ship-building, either as knees, beams, timbe's, or planks. Not being anywhere described, that I was aware ofj I gave it the name of Quercus Afriama. Several other timber-trees were growing here and along the coast, of which I procured specimens to the amoun; of about forty different kinds ; yet in Cape Town a general complaint prevailed of the want of wood, and the extravagance of prices, which no doubt long before this have found a remedy. The Zwart Kop's River meanders, in its course to the bay, through a valley about twenty miles long, and two to three wide, the hills on either side exhibiting an Sr.CT. ]\].] AND KAFFIR-T,AN1). 163 unbroken forest of trees and shrubby plants, among which are the tree crassula, euphorbia, and several aloes. The whole of this rich valley was divided among four families, each having not less than five thousand acres p of land; yet not content, they made endeavours to burn the enclosing shrubberies, in order to get more grass-land for their cattle, but the heated aloes and euphorbias burst open their stems, and the rushing streams of their juices extinguished the fire. In game, Zwart Kop's district was the most prolific wc had yet seen. We found five or six species of ante- lope ; and among them the pi</ma'a, supposed to be the smallest of hoofed quadrupeds, except only the pigmy nuisk-deer. We found also a third species of kor]ia('n, or bustard, larger than either of the other two, called the /(•//(/(' jiauw, or wild peacock : and also the fnlco scr- pimtariiis, which the Dutch have named the secretary bird, fi-om the pen-like feathers sticking on its head. I have so fully described the moral and physical 11 character of the Hottentot, his good qualities, and the cruel and inhuman treatment he receives ti'om the p Dutch boors,* that I must fiDrbear, in this place, any if further notice of them. In vain have I endeavoured to m discover by whom, or on what ground, the naiie of Hottentot was conferred on the tribe. In their own II language, it has neither place nor meaning: they call themselves, in every pa. t of the country over which they are scattered, Quaiquah But the mystery is from whence and how they came to the extreme point of a continent, hemmed in on one side bynegroes, and on the other by Kaffirs, neither of whom, nor any other nation on that continent, have feature, form, character, * Travels into the Interior of Southern Africa. M 2 * ' ^ * 1. 164 EXPEDITION TO THE ZUURE-VELDT [Chap. III. or colour, bearing the least resemblance to theirs. From all that I have seen of them (and I have had them in my service from five to six years), I have ever found them, with one single exception, an honest, faithful, in- telligent, and well-conditioned people. AVe are now about to proceed among a very different race of men, called Kaffirs, a name of whose origin tliev are equally ignorant as the Hottentots are of theirs; they call themselves Koussie. Advancing on our in- tended visit to the party, who had established them- selves within the British colony, on the 29th of Aiigust we crossed the ford of the Sunday River, and encamped on its wooded banks, where, during the night, for thetirst time, we were disturbed by a troop of elephants comina: to drink ; but on finding the place occupied, they turned quietly away, without I'nrther molesting us. We saw them next morning in an extensive thicket, and chased them many hours, but to no purpose. Thirty miles over a wild and uninhabited country brought us in the evening to the banks of the Bosjes- mans' river, after a tedious journey through thickets of shrubbery, in which a road had l)een cut just wide enongh to admit the waggons. The next day we reached the Ilassagai-bosch liiver, whose source is in tlie | Kiet-berg, a range of hills that extend to the eastern | limit of the colonv, aiul lose themselves in the hicli banks of the Great P'ish River. We had now passed throngh a jxjrtion of the Zuure- Veldt, on which the emigrant Kaffirs had placed them- selves and their herds of cattle ; and were about 'o | proceed to an interview with their chiefs, when sevora farmers with their waggons, and a party of thirty or i forty boors, approached, for the purpose, as it appeared, Sect. III.] AND KAFFIR-LAND. 1G5 of accompanying us into the Kaffir country. The two hemraadcn who had officially accompanied the landrost now proposed, as a necessary precaution for our safety, to take with us a party of armed men. Poor Breslor was silent, but knowing the Governor's feeling and in- tention on this subject, I stood forward and declared that not a sii „le armed man should a})proach the King of the Kaffirs, in my company ; that to take twenty I aniiod men into the heart of a country tiiat could bring almost as many thousands into the field would be folly, and would afford no better defence than three or four, and that by nmltiplying our munbers we should proba- bly imiltiply the danger of giving offence ; and there- I ■ fore it could not be done ; that my instructions were peremptory on that head, and that mine was not a mis- II sion of hostility, but of conciliation and peace. They 11 pressed the landrost to interfere, but he told them he coukl not ; that, if they had any apprehensions as to their personal safety, they were at full liberty to return |S to Graaff Keynet. AVe lost them for the present; but as none of us were J ac([uaintc(l with a single step of the country, we took & an old man of U})per Zuure-Veld and Van Rensberg, ^Mvho had been one of the companions of Van Keencn, the person who had proceeded along the eastern coast fl in search of the unfortunate passengers and crew of the Grosvenor' Indiaman; and these we took for the sole p' purpose of being our guides. Kensberg was a most useful man ; he was not only ac([uaiiited with the country, but was an excellent marks- man ; and an old Hottentot he had with him wms still Ik Iter— from this old man he generally reckoned upon a beast for every ball. With all our care, however, . It : 166 EXPEDITION TO THE Z(JUR3-VELDT [ClIAl-, III, two or three others joined us in the evening, under pretence of looking after their oxen, and the first night that we passed in Kaffirland no fewer than ten had contrived to smuggle themselves into that country; but they were disappointed in their object. We had not advanced tar beyond the Hassagai-bosch River, when our approach to the Kaffirs was announced by the v/hole surface of the country a])pearing in flames. On arriving, in the evening, on the banks of the Ka- reeka, we pitched our tents amidst several! hundreds nf these people, who came swarming out of the thick slinih- bery that skirted the river. A })arty of women wnc the first to salute UvS, laughing and dancing and pnttiiii; on all the coaxing maiuiers they could invent, with the view of getting from us some tobacco and brass buttons for their husbands. Good huriour, animation, and a cheerful turn of mind beamed conspicuously in all their actions and in their countenances. They appeared to be, as I believe they were, modest w'ithout rescrvi, curious without being troublesome, lively Mithont impu- dence, and sportive without the least shadow of lasei- viousness. Getting over the prejudice of colour, a dark glossy brown verging on black, several of them nii^lit be accounted handsome. The rapid movement of tk dark sparkling eye gave animation to the countenaiiee;! their teeth were beautifully white and regular ; and tlie I whole contour of the face and head was equally well formed witn that of the European, which it resend)led. They were mostly, however, low in stature, stroiis:- limbed, and very muscular in the leg. The men, on the contrary, were the finest S})ecimeii5 of the human figure I ever beheld. They possessed a I firmness of carriage and an open, manly deniea' lIMlll Skct. II I.J AND KAFFIR-LAND. 167 5 ' whicli, added to the good nature that illumined their features, declared them at once to be eqjially uncon- scious of fear, suspicion, or treachery, A young man of about twenty, of six feet ten inches high, was one of the finest figures, perhaps, ever created ; he was a perfect Hercules. Some wore skin-cloaks, but the iircatcr ))art were entirely naked. The women wore cloaks that extended below the calf of the leg ; they had leather caps trimmed with beads, shells, and pieces of polished copper or iron. In the evening they sent us some milk in baskets made from a species of (■i/jii-ni.% exceedingly clever and neat. Having no bread, vegetables, or roots, and rarely killing any of their cattle, they ma\ 1)6 said to live entirely, or nearly, upon coagulated milk ; and the best proof of its nutri- tious quality is the general healthy appearance and vigour of their persons. A chief of the name of Toolcy paid us a visit ; he was fiood-humoured and cheerful, but declined entering into conversation on the subject of our visit ; he said his brother Malloo could talk to us. It was not long before he made his appearance, followed by a third chief of the name of Ktonie. They were all stout, well- formed men, but Etonie might be cal'ed handsome; he had a lively, pleasing countenance that always wore a smile, his eyes were vivid and active, liis teeth as white as the purest ivory, and his nose of the same form as that of the European. They were asked if they were acquai/ited with the treaty that lixed the Great Fish River as the boundary between the Christians and tlie Kaffirs. Malloo said they knew it very well. "Then," it was asked, "had they not violated that treaty, by crossing the river and ' ! 168 EXPEDITION TO THE ZUURE-VELDT [CUAP. III. taking possession of the country belonging to the colo- nists, and thus depriving them of their habitations?" Malloo immediately replied, " There were no habita- tions "where they had fixed themselves ; and as to the motive for passing the boundary, he could only say, for his own part, that he had come over for one of the reasons that had carried the colonists first after the treaty, into the Kaffir country — that of hunting for game." It was at once clear that we had a shrewd peo])lc to deal with. I told them that the colony had now passed into the hands of a great and powerful sovereign, the King of England, and that his chiefj who was now the Governor of that colony, had directed me to say, that the established boundary should be strictly observed hy the colonists ; bu*^^ that the Kaffirs and all the others who had spread themselves over this side of the Groat Fish River were expected to recross that river, with their families and cattle, returning quietly and peaceably into their own country. And as a proof of the good inten- tions and friendship of the English Government to- wards the Kaffir nation, wc were now proceeding to their King Gaika with presents from the Guveniorof the colony. This intelligence seemed to alarm them ; and it was soon discovered that they were on bad terms with tlie King, and had been obliged to leave the country to avoid the effects of his displeasure. They now entreated our intercession on their behalf with the King, and gave a promise that, if a messenger of peace came to them direct from Gaika, they would immediately return into their own country. We assured them that every at- tempt should be made to bring about an amicable ad- from iiig- ;) are n abov shore iiial-a tlian Aristo \V()ll|( no sii and 1 iMiiiid Th iiig til (iij'/ii)/' /(,., Sect. III.] AND KAFFIR-LAND. 169 iitiiig for people to ow passed ?reign, the IS now the ) sav, that jserved by the others ' the Great , with their seably into ;ood iiiteu- Mimeiit to- (ceeding to iloveruorot' aiul it \v;i» lins M'ith till' country to w eiitroated ig, and gave me to them return into iit every at- imicablc ad- justment, and hoped, from the general good character of their King, to be successful ; and thus we parted. We skirted the banks of the Kareeka, passing through multitudes of Kaffirs and their herds of cattle, which our boors estimated to have amounted, in the course of the day's journey, to not less than five thousand head. Old Rensberg gave us an account of the multitudes of elephants he had formerly seen in this neighbourhood ; he asserted that he had once seen in one troop between foui' and five hundred, scouring the plains and making ■ for tlie forests. They are considered harmless, in com- parison with the lion, the leopard, wolves, and hytcnas, and other beasts of prey, with which this wild and rugged part of the country abounds. We went out of our way to take a look at the mouth of the Great Fish River. A bar of sand crosses the V mouth, but there appeared to be sufficient water for the admission of large boats ; within the bar the width was I from three to four hundred yards. Towards the even- ing a vast number of hippopotami, or sea-cows as they are named by the Dutch, appeared with their heads above the surface, but too far towards the opposite shore to be hit by nuisket-balls. Sea-cow is a name nial-ap})ropriate enough, but it is still somewhat better than sea-horse, which it has borne from the days of Aristotle and Pliny down to our time ; river-ho(j would best suit it. The water affords this huge animal no sustenance, which it has to seek among the reeds and rushes and succulent plants, that are generally luuiid on the shores of the rivers they inhabit. I'lie frutescent plants we observed on the forests skirt- ing the Great Fish River were the lofty (jhelUkoat, (iiphurljia, with its trunk of thirty or forty feet high ; . * .': 4' « ,1 no EXPEDITION TO THE ZUURE-VELDT [ClIAP. 111. the erf/thrina coralladendron ; the Scotia spcclosa, or African Ihjnum vitce ; the zamia ci/cadls, or KatRvs bread-tree ; the taiiuis elep/iantopus, its stump resem- bling the foot of an elephant. Among the herbaceous plants, common to the colony, were the xerantlmmun and gnaj)halmin, to the flowers of which the Dutch have given the name of schen-yaars -bloom — seven years' flowers, a duration which in England we liavu extended to everlasthuis. "We crossed the Great Fish llivcr into the Kaffir country, passed the deserted villages of the chieis Malloo and Toolev, and arrived at the River Keis- kamma. Between the two great rivers villages and huts abounded, yet not a human being appeared in tlie two days we had travelled in this part of Kaflirlaiul, till we were met at the close of the second day by one of our interpreters with a Kaflir cliicfj who had been despatched by King Gaika to invite and to conduct us to his place of residence. The Keiskamma was here found not fordable by waggons, and the country on the opposite side so moun- tainous and woody that wheel-carriages were out ct the (piestion. I was not sorry for the boors, who had smuggled themselves into the country, and were oblitiid to remain behind with their waggons ; and our Ilcin- raaden were pretty nmch in the same plight. Indeed, before we came to this river, I gave notice that not a single musket should cross it, and that the landrostand myself, and whoever accompanied lis to the King, should go entirely unarmed. By this detenninatioii we got rid of the whole party, Ifemraadcn and all, ex- cept Rensberg and the interpreter. We were four hours in riding fifteen miles. On our >-t.i .. f„ skct. :ii.] AND KAFFIR-LAND. ni ) f arrival at the residence of the King, his majesty, not having expected us till the following day, had gone to his grazing-village, ten or twelve miles to the north- ward; a messenger was immediately despatched after liim. In the meantime, the King's mother and his queen, a pretty Kaffir girl about fifteen, with their female attendants, to the number of fifty or sixty, formed a circle round us on the ground, and did their best to entertain us with their good-humoured and lively conversation, which would have been more agreeable if directly conveyed, instead of through the medium of a Hottentot interpreter. While thus pleasantly chatting, Gaika made his ap- pearance riding on an ox in full gallop, attended by five or six of his people similarly mounted. He invited us into his kraal, where the cattle are shut up at night, and received us under the shade of a spreading mimosa. From tlience we proceeded to a clear place of grass, on which he requested us to sit down with him, that, as he said, we might the more conveniently hear what each party had to say. He was evidently pleased with our visit, of the nature of which he was fully aware ; assured us that none of those Kaffirs who had passed the boun- (huy were his f-ubjeets ; that they Mere chiefs entirely independent of him ; that he was only a chief himself but his ancestors had always held the first rank in the country, and were so considered both by Kaffirs and colonists; that he regarded none of his countrymen, who wished to be independent of him, in the light of ene- mies. In short, he solemnly assured us, that Malloo and Tooley particularly had committed great depredations on the cattle of his people, and that when he sent them a civil message, to inquire if these had strayed into their territories, to his surprise he was informed they had k .j 172 EXPEDITION TO THE ZUURE-VELDT [CUAP. 111. quitted the country; that he had frequently since sent them proffers of friendship, but they detained his messengers ; that to give them no pretext for quarrelling with him, he had forbidden any of his people to molest the habitations they had left behind— the truth of this we witnessed, the villages of Malloo and Tooley remaining unmolested when we passed them. It was impossible not to be satisfied with the candour that marked his whole conversation with us ; and he readily agreed to send a messenger of peace to the Kaffir chiefs in the Zuurc- Veldt to invite their return ; that none of his subjects should pass the boundary to give them any disturbance ; and that he should keep up a friendly intercourse with the landrost, by sending annually one of his captains to Graaff Reynet, bearing a brass gorget, with the arms of His Britannic Majesty engraven upon it. We were surprised to find so much good sense and prudence in so young a man, and a Kaffir. He was at this time under twenty years of age, of an elegant form and a graceful and manly deportment ; his height about five feet ten inches ; his countenance open, but marked with the habit of reflection ; and he possessed, in a superior degree, a solid understanding and a clear head. To every question, he gave, without embarrass- ment or reserve, direct and unequivocal answers. His disposition appeared to be amiable. He seemed, in- deed, to be adored by his subjects ; the name of Gaika was in every mouth, and was seldom pronounced with- out symptoms of pleasure. He had one wife only, very young and very pretty, by whom he had a little girl called Jasa. The ceremony of the circumcision of male children ir't' Sect. III.] AND KAFFIR-LAND. 173 is universally practised among these people, but from whom they had it, is not easy to imagine. That they have descended from the Arabs is most probable : that tribe known by the name of Bedouins are and have long been wanderers over a great part of Africa. Their pastoral habits and manners, their kind and friendly reception of strangers, their tent-shaped houses, and, above all, that grand feature of Islamism to which I have alluded, strongly impressed on my mind, when among them, their Arabian descent. Notwithstanding the friendly disposition of the Kaffir King towards the emigrant chiefs, we had scarcely reached Graaft' Reynet, when it was reported to the laiulrost that those foolish people had positively refused to return beyond the Fish River, instigated no doubt by the rebel outlaws, lurking in the neighbourhood of that river and in various parts of the Zuure-Veld, and encouraged probably by a set of adventurers, whom we fell in with on our return, chiefly soldiers or sailors, who had either deserted or been discharged from the Dutch army and the Company's shipping. We arrived at the Drosdy on the 30th of September, having made our long circuitous journey in less than two mouths. Section IV. E.i'pedltion over the Sneuwherg to the Orange River and through the Country of the Bo^esmans. Three weeks had scarcely elapsed when we were ready for another expedition. My very general in- structions directed me to visit the boundaries of the -.'.H, m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) x^- ^ ^^ ^^-^ .«'^>5'.% A •«4 1.0 I.I 1.25 IIIM •il IIIM 22 i^ IIIIM 1.4 1.6 V] <^ /: 9: y Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) (172-4503 « -M Vi 174 EXPEDITION TO THE ORANGE KlVEIf. [Chap. HI. ' I colony. The journey therefore Wiis now to be taken to the northward and to return by the eastward; in short, to explore the country, which is mostly in possession of* a singular people, known by the name of Bosjesman, from their living and concealing them- selves among the bushes or thickets. I may here at once describe them. At the house of one Kriiger, at an early part of the journey, I saw one of these wild men, with his two wives and a little child, who had just been captured or stolen. The man measured four feet five inches, one of the women four feet two, the other four feet three. Physically speaking, they are evi- dently of the same class of beings with the Hottentot, whose ugly features in this diminutive race are greatly exaggerated, even to disgust. We afterwards sur- rounded a kraal, or village of huts, the population of which was estimated at about a hundred and fifly per- sons. I had several, both men and women, measured, and the tallest of the former was four feet nine inches, and the tallest woman four feet four inches ; one of these, who had borne several children, measured only three feet nine inches. These unfortunate beings are in every reppect, I should suppose, the ugliest of all human creatures : the flat nose, high cheek-bones, prominent chin and concave visage, partake much of the apish character, which their keen eye, always in motion, does not tend to diminish. The upper lid of this organ, as in that of the Chinese and the Hottentot, is rounded into the lower on the side next the nose. Thcv aro known in the colony, from this circumstance probahly. by the name of Chinese Hottentots. The activity of this diminutive race is incredihly great. It is said that the klip-springing antelope can Sect. IV.] EXPEDITION TO THE ORANGE RIVEI{. 175 scarcely excel them in leaping from rock to rock, and that on rough ground or up the sides of* mountains horsemen have no chance in keeping pace with them ; yet the form of their bodies would not appear to indi- cate this. The great curvature of the spine inwards and the remarkably extended posteriors are character- istic of the whole Hottentot race ; but in some of the little Bosjesmans they are carried to such an extrava- gant degree as to excite laughter. In most other respects, mentally at least, they differ very widely. In disposition the latter is lively and cheerful ; in his person active ; averse from idleness he seldom wants employment. Concealed by day in his hovel, for fear of the boors, he will dance on moonlighi nights from the setting to the rising of the sun. Yet every morsel the Bosjesman eats is earned with danj^er and fatigue — danger from their inveterate enemies, the boors, and fatigue in searching and laying out plans for capturing different kinds of game. This poor creature neither cultivates the ground nor breeds cattle. The bulbs of the liliaceous plants and a few gramineous roots are all that the vegetable kingdom affords him ; the larva) of ants and of locusts are luxuries ; of the former we could not but observe, that an ant-hill, so very common in most parts of Africa, was here a rare object. The larvae of locusts he can only procure on the occasional visits of this destructive insect. AVhen all these means fail, they are driven by hunger to the necessity of hazarding a toilsome and dangerous expedition of plunder into the colony. They are pro- hably the less scrupulous of this, as the treatment of the boors towards them has been most flagitious. The country was once their own ; it was taken from them '* ! '■'— ^ T' Wgyw '^mnKBanm/msK i 116 EXPEDITION TO THE ORANGE RIVER. [Chap, in, by the boors, and their children were seized and made slaves. The result of all this has been the abominable expeditions carried on, under the sanction of the Dutch government, against this miserable race of mortals, by the name of commandos, which it was the determination of Lord Macartney should no longer be tolerated. To bring about a conversation with some of the chiefs of these poor people ; to persuade them, if pos- sible, to quit their wild and marauding life, on being assured that the colonists would not be permitted to molest them ; at the same time to see the state of this portion of the colony, and of the Christian inhabitants (as they designate themselves), the present journey was undertaken. It promised also tnany subjects of curio- sity; and as no European traveller, except the late Colonel Gordon, had ever ascended the Mountains of Snow, much novelty might be expected from \t On the 20th of October we departed from the j^»osdy, and at the distance of eighteen miles found ourselves among the extensive plains and scattered mountains that compose the Sneuwberg ; the latter of which, with their sides of bare rock and level summits, resemble, on a smaller scale, the Table Mountain at the Cape of Good Hope. We encamped on one of these enclosed plains, the thermometer 45°, which, during the day's journey, had been at 83° — the former figure occasioned not so much by the elevation, which, from a barometrical observation in a Dutch MS. journal, appears to be only 4800 feet, as by the evaporation from heavy rain, which at least may probably have been the main cause. In company of the late provisional landrost of Graaff Reynet, an inhabitant of Sneuwberg, I made an excur- sion in search of Bosjesmans, a party of whom had II I , i. .• I ■ I •♦., r Skct. IV. EXPEDITION TO THE ORANGE RIVER. 177 > f. carried off a number of cattle but two days before. In one of the retreats among the mountains we discovered their recent traces ; their fires were scarcely extin- guished, but the Bosjesmans were gone. We disco- vered, however, in a cavern drawings of several animals, made, it is supposed, by these people. The animals represented were zebras, quachas, gemsboks, spring- boks, ree-boks, elands, baboons, and ostriches. The figure of the zebra, in particular, was remarkably well executed ; all the marks and characters of this animal were well represented. The materials used were char- coal, pipe-clay, and different ochres. Several crosses, circles, points, and lines were placed in a long row, as if intended to express some meaning. The upper part of the cavern was covered with a thick coating of a black substance, not unlike pitch. In reaching up to cut off a specimen the people called out to me to desist, that it was deadly poison, and used by the Hottentots to smear the points of their arrows, and that it was well known as klip-gift, or rock-poiscn. As we advanced to the northward the sorry sight of a compact mass of that destructive animal the locust resting upon, the ground presented itself^ completely covering a space of about a square mile, giving it the appearance from a little distance as if burnt up and strewed over with brown ashes. The waggons drove directly through the mass, compelling these creatures to rise on the wing in a cloud that darkened the air on each side of and under the waggons ; the rest remaining quiet, our horses were nuide to gallop through them, but a few only just under their feet would deign to stir. On the '23rd we encamped at the foot of a detached mountain, remarkable only for its pointed peak. It N ■iH' ■■.'4 :;|' 178 EXPEDITION TO THE ORANGE RIVER. [Cuap. Ill, III i' r . ••> was called by Colonel Gordon the Compass Mountain, as the waters of the surrounding meadows flow from it in all directions. I measured its altitude trigononietri- cally, and found it about fifteen hundred feet. The termination of the Snowy Mountains is some- where about twelve miles to the north-east of the Com- pass-berg, where a poort^ or passage through the last ridge opens upon a plain, extending to the northward without a swell farther than the eye can command. Eight miles beyond this pass we encamped on the plain, where the weather was found to be more raw and cold than hitherto experienced; and we observed the Compass-berg white near the summit with snow. Tiie plains, however, were embroidered wit'i almost the whole tribe of syngenesious plants ; of these the most abundant were various species of arctotisj othonna, cm- raria, aster, calendula, athanasla, tanecetum, senecio, and gnaphalium—fiW of them at this time in the height of their bloom. Few frutescent plants were met with. Many of the Sneuwberg farmers have never seen a tree; their fuel is the dung of the cattle collected where pent up at nights, dug out in squares like turf, spread out to dry, and then piled up in stacks. The boors of Sneuwberg appeared to be, in general, a better description of men than those towards the sea- coast — a peaceable, obliging, and orderly people; a brave and hardy race of men : the women also were evidently possessed of more animation, and led a less sedentary and listless life, than those of the lower divi- sions. Many examples of female fortitude have been shown and recorded. The wife of one of our party having received intelligence, in the absence of her hus- band, that the Bosjesmans had carried oft' a troop of li 'T. ■ . • . . I " <m: IV.] EXPEDITION TO THE ORANGE RIVER. 179 their sheep, instantly mounted her horse, took a musket ill her hand, and, accompanied hy a single Hottentot, engaged the plunderers, put them to flight, and reco- vered every sheep. Proceeding, on the 25th, about twenty miles northerly over a level country without a bush, to the Gordon's Fonteyn, where we encamped, we saw on every side such a nmltitude of gnoos and quachas, spring-boks and hartebeests, as we had never before met with in any part of the country. Near this spring stood the last Christian habitation in this quarter, the abode of four families, for mutual protection against the Bosjesmans. We were now in the midst of this wild people, as the boors name them, and to travel with safety through their country it was deemed necessary to increase our numbers ; for this purpose the commandant of the dis- trict had been ordered to meet us here with an adequate force. He brought with him sixteen farmers and eight armed Hottentots, which, with our own party, the drivers, and leaders, amounted to about fif^y persons. We had seven waggons, about a hundred oxen, and fifty horses, l)tsides a flock of fifty or sixty sheep for our consump- tion. The farmers were all young men, who seemed to be delighted on the present occasion, which they considered only as a jaunt of pleasure. We collected all our forces the following day at the Sea-cow lliver, about six miles to the northward of our last station. It is a chain of deep stagnant pools or ;/a/s, some of which were five or six miles in length, and deep enough to float a line-of-battle ship •, neither tree nor shrub adorned its banks; the tall arumlo- phragmites alone supplied their place, affording food for the hippopotamus, an animal that now and then n2 .1.., i:;S- » ., *■■ A H •; V MP 180 EXPEDITION TO THE ORANGE RIVER. [Chap. III. makes its appearance in these holes, where it was once found in such numbers, as to give a name to the river; but now they are nearly destroyed. Twenty miles farther to the northward brought us to a part of the river where Governor Van Plettenberg ended his journey, and caused a stone or bnaken to be erected, as indicating a point in the line of demarcation be ,veen the colony and the country of the Bosjesniaiis; it no longer exists ; the boors, disliking any such lints, demolished it. Here, however, on the opposite side of the river, for the first time since we came upon it, we observed some clumps of large shrubby plants, loaded with a vast number of nests, on approaching which numerous flocks of birds issued from them. They were immediately recognised l)y the colonists to be the nests of the locust-devouring thrush, whose food is stated to consist wholly of the larva) of that aninial, which they hunt out and pursue wherever they go. They are, it seems, to the locusts what the king thrush is to the ants. These nests consisted of a multitude of cells, each having a tube leading into it. One general roof covered each clump, composed of interwoven twigs, to protect them from birds of prey. The numbers of these birds, which we disturbed, were not less astonishing than those of the locusts, which we had speedily to encounter. Numerous as the birds were, there was no danger of their wanting their favourite food. Of the multitudes of the incomplete insect or larva of the locust, which at this time infested this part of Africa, no adequate idea can possibly be conceived without having been an eye-witness. For the distance often miles on each side of the Sea-cow River, and Sect. IV.] EXPEDITION TO THE ORANGE RIVER. 181 ) » eighty or ninety miles in length, an area of sixteen or eighteen hundred square miles, the whole surface of the ground, as far as we could see, might literally be said to be, or to have been, covered with them. They had completely destroyed every green herb and every blade of grass; and had not the insulated reeds of the river afforded subsistence for our cattle, our journey must here have ended for want of food. To the southward, where these swarms had already been, the traces of their route appeared as if the surface had been swept by a hrooin, or as if a harrow had been dra\\n over it. In coming to the first troop, the waggons, as usual, drove right through them, when they rose up on each side like a cloud, and the horses crossed the group in a gallop ; those that escaped from being crushed immediately squatted down again. They swarmed in thousands into our tents, to devour the crumbs of bread that fell on the ground. The present year was the third of their con- tinuance in this part of the colony. Their last depar- ture, with its result, is described as rather singular, and it was confirmed by the inhabitants of the lower part of the colony. All the full-fledged insects were driven by a tempestuous north-west wind into the sea, and after- wards thrown back upon the beach, where they formed a bank three or four feet high, between the mouths of the Bosjesmans River and the Beeka, a distance of nearly fifty miles ; and our present company assured me that when this mass became putrid, the stench was sensibly felt in several parts of Sneuwberg. In proceeding to the northward we reached a poort^ or gap in the hills, and a little beyond it a second, when we found the surface of the country broken and rugged with rocks, and the hills as we advanced be- ■••• ■.''\^¥ 182 KXI'EDITION TIIU()U(JH THK [I'llAl-. 1 •U I ' > ift came higher, and their summits were capped with sandstone. This second pass or /ilaof was so narrow, and the river had become so serpentine and henniied in by such higli rocky banks, that we were conipolled to make a fiu'ther search i)ef'ore we could attempt to let the waggons proceed. We, therefore, took a day's journey on horseback to examine the country and to look out for game. ^^\ fell in with spring-boks iimumerable, hartebeests, elands, a;?d bonteboks ; and quachas, from fifty to a hundred in a troop, were frecpiently seen, but not a gnoo among them. On a previous day we had fallen in with a troop of this singular animal between two hills, amount- ing to nearly fifty, when our ])arty of boors, six or seven in number, discharged a whole volley of their tremendously-large nniskets, which they call rooars or caveer.% into the herd, and killed or wounded five or six. This animal is supposed to be the swiftest in all Africa. It partakes of the character of three others; its head being bovine, its neck and body ecjuiiic, and its legs cervine. As to its vertical and stiff uiaiie, white streaked with black hairs, it is peculiar to itstlfi being from two to three inches long and ap})eariiig as 'f cut and trimmed artificially. The animal is so fierce and wild as not to be tamed. In the Surrey Zoolo- gical Gardens they had procured one, which was fierce, but not considered dangerous. One day, however, it made an attack upon his keeper and slew him. Being now in the Bosjesmen's country, the com- mandant represented the necessity of sending out exploring parties to discover the retreats of Bosjesinen tribes, to which I reluctantly consented ; but on a solemn promise that on no other consideration than SkcT. IV.] COUNTRY OF THE HOSJESMANS. 183 that not a shot should be fired U])on thnm ; — they were merely to explore and report. That very evenir>g lights had been seen behind some bushes on a neighbouring rocky hill ; it was suggested that an f.ttack should be made on them the following evening : I positively for- bade any such an outrage, but told the commandant I would go with them myself, and endeavour to bring about an intercourse with them : but in so doing, I must exact a solemn pledge from every man of the party that not a shot should be fired, and that he, the commandant, as the provisional landrost, should be held responsible for the rest — an office he had held, during the time of Mr. Bresler's expulsion. On setting out, our very devout boors prepared them- selves for the enterprise by singing three or four hymns out of ' William Sluiter,' and drinking each a sop'u>^ or glass ol' Ca})e brandy. We moved on gently and with- out noise, and the boors, taking another stave and another glass of brandy, advanced towards the hill to observe the motions of the Bosjesmcn. A report was made that they appeared to be very numerous ; after halting a couple of hours, in order to arrive at the mouth of the defile, in which the kraal had been ascer- tained to be situated, just at the first dawn of day, when we were proceeding along in solemn sil'^nce, our party was divided into three companies with a Hot- tentot to each to secure an interview ; mine consisted of the commandant and another farmer, and we rode directly up to the defile, our Hottentot pointing out the spot where the kraal was placed. By the faint light I could only discover a few straw mats bent be- tween two sticks, and not a single human creature : but my ears were stunned by a horrid scream like the '■ ^*M i' 184 EXPEDITION TIIKOUGII THE [Chap. III. t'. ' . i»> warwhoop of savages, and iinniediately followed by the shrieking of women and the cries of children. My coniniandant and his companion both fired on the kraal, empty as it appeared to be ; I expressed my surprise that he, of all others, should have been the first to break the solemn pledge he had given, and that I had expected from him a very different kind of conduct: " Myn Got!" he exclaimed, "have you not seen a shower of arrows falling among us ? " which his com- panion confirmed, though I certainly had not seen either arrows or people to shoot them. The report of a musket now reached us from another part of the hill ; and, on riding round the point, to my horror I perceived a poor Bosjesman lying dead upon the ground. The excuse was, that as one of the jjurty was in the act of endeavouring to prevail on the sa- vages to come down, the unfortunate man had stolen behind a rock, and with his drawn bow was taking aim at him, on seeing which another shot him dead. I had hoped that this little expedition would not only have terminated without bloodshed, but might be the means of conciliating the two parties inhabiting the same traet of country, which was capacious enough for both. All that could now be done was to order the party to dismount, to turn the horses to graze, and, having grounded their muskets, to make signs for the natives to approach. This produced the desired effect ; and several little children were observed coming down from the heights to the plain ; we gave them biscuits and other trifles, and let them return ; presently the women and young girls, to the number of thirty or forty, fol- lowed, but not without symptoms of timidity. AVc gave them such trifles as we possessed, and sent them Sect. IV.] COUNTRY OF THE BOSJESMANS. 185 > ' hack to invite their husbands to come down to receive a j)rt'scnt of tobacco. The men, however, seemed to hesitate, and the women came to us twice or thrice be- fore they could prevail on more than one man to trust liiniself with us, and he made his approach in the ut- most state of agitation — half-laughing and half-crying, like a terrified child. We sent him back with a roll of tobacco ; but no more uian three others ventured to trust themselves with Christians. These three, how- ever, acquired so much confidence as to accompany the waggons tor several days ; and they ieft us, with presents to each of tobacco, beads, knives, flints, and steels, with which they returned to their kraals highly delighted. I forbear to enter into any farther description of the persons or condition of this most diminutive, and cer- tainly the most miserable, of the human race, than what I have already done. In fact, the Bosjcsman is neither more nor less than a degraded, blighted, pigmy Hottentot; reduced, perhaps, to their present condition by a constant state of destitution and starvation. lleturning to the second Poort, and on our way to tlie northward, we found the river meandering round so many rocky points, that we were obliged to cross the stream almost a hundred times ; when, just as we were about to abandon any further progress, we fell into a large beaten hippopotamus track, which carried us through reeds and thick shrubbery to the very end of the kloof, about fifteen miles from its entrance, where wc had left our waggons. Here we found the termina- tion of the Sea-Cow River, its tranquil waters forming a confluence with another river of prodigious size, whose rapid stream rolled over its rocky bed a vast ,.>■ k .- i.' 186 'HE HIPPOPOTAMUS. [CilAP. 111. volume of muddy water ; its current flowed to the north-westward. At this place it was about four hun- dred yards wide, and apparently very deep ; the boors had no other name for it but that of the Great River. I had no doubt of its being the same which flows into the Southern Atlantic, on the western coast, where Colonel Gordon saw it and gave to it the name of the Orange River. In ord ^r to know a little more of this river, we re- turned to our waggons, and by directing our course easterly, we were able with difficulty to approach it; but seeing no prospect of the waggons being able to get to the eastward, we took to our horses, and followed the windings of the river four days in the hope of meet- ing v/ith a ford, when we gave up all chance of being able to cross it. In coasting this river, we gathered on its pebbly beach a coarse kind of opal, cornelians, chalcedonies, and agates, figured in every form and colour, plain and striped. In every part of the Orange River he hip- popotamus was found snorting and playing in vast numbers ; our party killed three or four one day, but one only could be hauled on shore : it was a female ; and a full-grown fcBtus, on dissection, was taken out of the womb, perfect in every part except in the want of teeth and tusks. I put it in brandy, but the jolting of the vaggon had, in a few days, reduced it to a jelly. My small double-barrelled rifle of poor Anguish had, but a few days before, astonished the boors by sending its little ball directly through the body of a spring-bok, from the haunch to the lower part of the neck, and not many days before it performed a neater feat; two poble korhaens, or bustards of the largest StCT, IV.] THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 187 size, were sitting near together on the summit of a rock ; my rifle was loaded with large round-shot ; I fired and brought down one of them ; the other immediately got upon the wing and seemed to take a sweep in the air over its dead companion ; I discharged the second barrel, and brought the bird to my feet with a broken wing. I was alone, and how to get them to the party was the puzzle ; I toiled and sweated for nearly an iiour in getting one of them across the horse : it was in vain I laboured to succeed with the othei*. The boors would not believe that I had shot two, but I compelled the commandant to go with me to the spot : and being a stout fellow — as they all are — he took the second on his horse, and we had a jolly feast ; the bustard being- one of the best flavoured birds that fly. Notwithstanding their conviction of the power of my little rifle, they ridiculed the idea of my joining in the operation of shooting the hippopotami ; somewhat nettled, I insisted that the very next hippopotamus that put its head out of the water should be left to me solely, which was not long in happening. I lay down on the bank — for the animal is both shy and cunning — and waited till his face was turned towards the bank, when i took a deliberate aim and struck him on the head ; he instantly disappeared, but as rapidly rose to the surface, the blood flowing from the wound. I fired the second barrel to make all sure, but the first had given the fatal stroke. He floundered about for a little time, heaving occasionally his huge body to the surface, and in the course . '' half-an-hour my comrades succeeded in hauling him out on the beach. The boors were now fully satisfied, and more astonished than ever, at the powerful little gun ; they found the ball had entered •\« 188 THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. [Chap. III. just below the eye cand had penetrated to a great depth, probably into the brain. Mr. Bresler, having heard that the gelatinous hooi of the hippopotamus was delicious, had one of them cooked in his iron pot. I had the curiosity to taste it, but, like other jellies, it was nearly tasteless ; the land- rost, however, got through the whole foot, exclaiming repeatedly how lehker (delicious) it was. My curiosity went no farther than to have a slice from the haunch broiled, which I found to be sufficiently Ickker — not unlike pork. The tasting of it served me, some years afterwards, to crow o*er my friend Sir Joseph Banks, who was once boasting, at the Royal Society Club, that he had eaten of ever species of animal, terrestrial and marine, from the whale and the elephant downwards, which he thought few men could boast of. "Sir Joseph," I said, " it is a question if you were ever in the way to taste a hippopotanuis." " No, I have not met with that creature." " Then, Sir Joseph, I have got to windward of you, for I have." " Yes, you arc too many for me ; you have doubled the Cape." But Sir Jose])h had his retaliation ; for ♦^he hippopo- tamus, or its skull, was the cause of some mirth at my expense. I had ordered the skull, being a very large one, to be taken to the Cape, and was thence sent to England, as a present to my young friend Sir George Staunton. One evening, at the meeting of the Lin- nean Society, there was lying on the table the skull of a hippopotamus, which had been sent as a present, and was much admired for its great size. I happened to say, that I shot one, some years ago, in South Africa, whose skull appeared to mc to be of a much larger size. A gentleman present said, in a slow and solemn ■•K Mk Sect. IV.] THE UNICORN. 189 3 f tone, " I should not wonder if the two turn out to be one and the same — that on the table is a present from Sir George Staunton." The laugh, of* course, was against nie. On the 5th of December we left the river, and di- rected our course to the southward over a level country, as far as the Zuure-herg, or Sour Mountain, from whence the waters flow in opposite directions ; those taking- a northerly course fall into the Orange River ; the other united streamlets flow to the southward into the Great Fish River, the southern boundary of the colony and the Kaflirs. A little beyond this we dis- charged our party of boors ; and, with the intention of skirting the colony to the eastward, we took another party better acquainted with that part of the country. We entered the division of Tarka, close to a lofty mountain named the Bambosberg, from which proceeds a chain of mountains ; in one of these we discovered a cavern ftdl of drawings of animals of the larger kind, such as elephants, rhinoceroses, hippopota- mi, and, among the rest, one of the giraft'e. The Bos- jesnien had told us that the people, who make these drawings, live on the other side of the Great River, ^vhicli may account for the drawing of an animal never found on the south side of that river. From hence we made a long excursion in the Tarka Mountains : our object was to find, as we were frequently told there is, the drawing of an animal with a single horn. One of our party said he would conduct us to a cavern where drawings of many animals were on its sides. At the place indicated, we found sketches of several animals, and among them one of the giraffe. Still the object of our search was wanting, and our farmers seemed to be 190 THE UNICORN. [Ciui'. III. as anxious as ourselves that what they had told us should turn out to be true. We therefore continued our search in the mountains, and came, in one of them, to a deep cavern, the front of it covered with shrubbery. One of the boors mounted up the steep ascent, and having made his wav through the brushwood, he called out that the sides of the cavern were covered Avith drawings. I ascended, and having got the bushes partly cleared away to let in light, numerous drawings made their appearance; some tolerably well executed, and among them was part of a figure evidently meant to represent an animal wifli a horn projecting from its forehead : all the body was covered by the figure of an elephant painted over it. The resemblance of the head to that fanciful animal which we call an unicorn may, perhaps, have been sketched by some of the boors; but that there is a beast in Southern Africa, with a single horn on his forehead, there can be no doubt ; or that one species of the rhinoceros, in Southern Africa, is a monoceros ; for one of the missionaries brought to England the horn of one he had met with to the northward of the Orange Kiver, which I saw, and which I think was about two feet in length. It is now fifty years since the present reminiscences were originally written; but no other unicorn has since been discovered, except the one- horned rhinoceros above-mentioned. In a letter from Lord Macartney to Sir George Staunton, dated Castk of Good Hope, July 24th, 1798, is the following:— " I must not forget to tell you that, from what 1 hear, I am almost persuaded of the existence of the unicorn, ten feet high; the horn of brown ivory, two and a half feet long, twisted, and tapering to the point, Sect. IV.] THE UNICORN. 191 thick at the root as a man's arm, and thick as a man's finger at the end ; hoofs and tail like a bullock's ; a black short mane ; skin like a horse's — colour white, watered with black (I have a pair of slippers, said to be made of it); very fierce; roots up trees with its horn, and feeds on the boughs ; an object of worship to the inliabitants, &c. I have just put down these loose par- ticulars, as asserted to belong to this wonderful animal. I am using my best endeavours to come to the truth of the matter, and I shall send it to you when cleared )) up- , , I was at this time absent, for in the same letter it is stated — " Mr. Barrow left us on the 1st of this month oil a very distant excursion, which I flatter myself will prove of some amusement to him, as well as of benefit to the public," &c. In another letter, of a date just one year later, his Lordship is pleased to say (what, as an autobiographer, I am justified in quoting), " Mr. Barrow is returned from his northern tour, which completes his Hottentot travels ; and I do believe that no person, whether native or foreigner, has seen so much of the country, or seen it so well, and to such good purpose, as he has done. I imagine his travels will be a great acquisition to the world. His map must be particularly valuable, as it is the only one that can at all be depended on. Pjvery one that I have yet seen published is strikingly erroneous, and shamefully executed," &c. On proceeding to the southward, little occurred that was curious or amusing. Near the junction of a stream with the Great Fish lliver, we observed a vast quantity of the tall spreading mimosa, scattered over the face of the country, and in full blossom, with clusters of golden k . IS 192 THE HONEY-GUIDE. [Chv.'. III. flowers ; and from these were thousands of bees busily employed collecting the material to work up their winter's store. Nests of this little industrious animal were hanging in large clusters from almost every rock, and the honey was now in perfection. The Hottentots say, that when the doom-bloom (mimosa) blossoms, the honey is fat. We here met with, as we were told we should, the little brownish bird to which the name of honey-guide has been given by Latham, frcn its habit of discovering and pointing out to man, by i. chirping and whistling noise, and its fluttering about, the places where the bees'-nests are found. It will even fly to a distance to find some human being, to whom, by its chirping, and flying from bush to bush or from rock to rock, it dis- plays its anxiety to point out its discovery. Nor is it wholly disinterested ; for after the nest has been plun dered, there still remains enough of the honied sweets for the little discoverer to feast upon. The name of this little creature, as given in the ' Systcnia Natura,' is cuculus indicator. If this was the only instance of superior sagacity among the feathered tribe, we should be apt to get rid of the question by ascribing its action to instinct— without, however, pretending to define what is meant by instinct. In Africa (which abounds with tigers and leopards and hyaenas — with ravenous vultures, and numerous other beasts and birds of prey), all the smaller and impotent species of the feathered tribe have contrived the means of protection and security for pro- pagating their respective classes. Some construct their nests so that they can be entered only by one small orifice ; others suspend them from the slender extremi- St;CT. v.] GRAAFF REYNET TO THE CAPE. 193 1 ' ties of small branches. A species of loxia always hangs its nest from a branch extending over a river or pool — the aperture of its long neck, like that of a chemist's retort, almost touching the water. A note in my journal observes that the sparrow, in Africa, hedges round its nest with thorns ; and even the swallow, under the eaves of houses, or in the r''ls of rocks, makes a tube to its nest of six or seven inches. The same kind of birds in Northern Europe, having nothing to fear from monkeys, snakes, or other noxious ani- mals, construct open nests ; and I ask, is this difference the effect of mere accident or of design ? Is it, I might have added, the effect of imitation or observation ? This, however, is not a subject for discussion here ; and therefore I conclude by merely stating that we arrived at the village of Graaff Reynet on the 24th of November, the warmest day I had yet experienced in Southern Africa, the thermometer in the shade and open air being 108°, in the house 82^ Section V. Journey from Graaff Reynet^ by the Sea- Coast, to the Cape. I HAD soon reason to discover that I had made a false move, which might have proved fatal, in taking the line of route I commenced on this journey. The shortest way to return was that which brought us from the Cape to Graaff Reynet ; but my object was to com- plete the boundary line along the sea-coast, which the direct way home would not have done. Deceived by the heavy and continued rain, that for three successive o .••> . s , 194 GUAAFF KKYNET TO THE CAPE. [(.'IIAP. III. days and nights had fallen, both at the Drosdy and in the mountains of Sneuwberg and Canideboo ; trust- ing to the few springs and the driblets of water which remained in the beds of the rivers, on our formtr journey over the northern part of the Karroo, and more- over finding that the Sunday and Canideboo liivti!i were so nmch swollen by the rains as scarcely to be fordable, I could not hesitate ; and therefore, on the 9th of December set out, and too soon found by sad experience, that the extent of the rains had been verv limited. The face of the country soon presented one uniform surface of aridity and barremicss. The few saline plants were shrivelled up, crackling under the feet like so many bundles of dry sticks. I passed, with pain, a poor horse at his last gasp for want of food and water: ex- hausted and hopeless, the only relief that could be given to his sufferings was that of briiiging them to a speedy end. A few miles farther, another was lying by the roadside already dead. Our object was now to pu.»h on to the Hottentots' River, where I arrived at nine o'clock at night, and found it completely dry. I now became seriously alarmed for our own cattle: they were not only deprived of water, but there was neither a blade of grass nor a shrub of any sort on which they could browse. Scarcely a living creature had appeared the whole day ; but at night, attracted by the light of the candle, there came into my tent such a host of cockchafers that they literally extin- guished the candle, and drove me out. At midnight I again started afresh, and made for the Karooka ; arrived at daylight, but found not a drop of water. What was now to be done ? I had advanced Sect. V.] GllAAFF KEYNET TO THE CAPE. 195 too far to think of retreating. I could anticipate the misery and fatality that such a step would be sure to produce ; whereas, in case of proceeding, I had hope at least to sustain me, and I was advancing to the south- ward. The sun rose in all its splendour, to present to my eye a melancholy picture of cheerless desolation, and to my mind the misery of a scorching day. i>iot a beast of any kind, except my own exhausted oxen, not a bird, or even an insect, was to be seen : every trace of animated nature appeared to have fled from, or been extinguished in, the dreary and parched waste. One hope alone remained for speedy relief^ and that was placed on De Beer Valley. The hollow lowings of the cattle, the bleating of the sheep, and the cries of the Hottentot children, yearning in their distress for want of water, Avere truly melancholy. Seen from a distance, De Beer Valley indicated no appearance of want of water. It was that of a beautiful green meadow — a blessed oasis in the desert ; and the cattle, the horses, ana the Hottentots, the moment it caught the eye, scampered away in full career : those even in the waggons were not behind the rest. But I cainiot attempt to describe the heart-rending disappoint- ment felt by all, man and beast, on arriving at the deceitful spot, to find the beds of both pools and rivers perfectly dry ; I can only say it was most painfully expressed by the looks and the manner of the poor beasts. In one place, shaded by mimosas, was a small puddle of muddy water. Of this I caused to be baled out a small quantity for the horses ; and the strong grass and the reeds, still retaining their verdure, were greedily devoured by the oxen ; and to this alone I am satisfied that their final safety was owing. o 2 196 GRAAPr KKYNET TO THK CAPE. [(.'IIAP. III. »'» The reeds and rush-like gr.iss having in some dcfirii! refreshed the cattle, they were once more jmt into tlio waggons; and moving slowly to the southward, we ciiiin' to a place called the Karree Fontyn, a kind of swaiiip, containing in j)laces a little nuiddy and Icetid wator; but bad as it was, both Hottentots and cattle swallowed it with great avidity. For myself^ servant, and Hot- tentots, a bottle of chalybeate, and another of hepatic water, were acceptable and refreshing. On the 15th, after ju'oceeding south about five lio\iis, we came to a clear limpid stream called the Kmr Fonti/n, or Precious 8j)ring ; and never certainly did a spring of water appear to be more truly precious and delicious. The danger now lay in the excess of drink- ing after so long an abstinence. On the 17th we encamped on the banks of the Oli- fant's River, where several hot chalybeate springs issued out of a bog. The river itself was 'Iry; but fine mi- mosas, with their golden flowers, eiu'iched its bunks, From hence (continuing to the southward, we crossed a range of hills, and descended into the LfUKja Kloofs or Long Pass, a narrow valley, continuing to run east and west about one hundred and fifty miles, abounding witli streams of water and good pasturage, well })eopleu, and most of the habitations having good gardens, fruitoncs, and vineyards. Through this kloof would have been our direct route, but my anxiety to skirt tl^e sea-coast induced me to cross the only })ass of the high mountains, on the south side of Lange Kloof| that is accessible by waggons ; and thence to proceed easterly, through the forests to Plettenberg's Bay, about fifty miles. These forests extend between the Zwarteberg chain of mountains and the sea, from Mossel or Muscle Witli arms is ca is 1)()I( not he and iiH On bcrg's to be regulai It was its res( iiisc()V( and tf # Si:<"". V. GKAAFF KEYNKT TO Till-: CAl'E. 197 » ' ]}ay to Sitzicaiiiiiia on the south-eastern coast ; an extent ot'jtboiit two liundred miles, consistiiip; chiefly of foR'st-trees, many of* them of very lar^e dimensions, niwUiciii^' Mi'ood timber for ship-huilding, and for (h)- iiicHtic architeeture. 1 procured a list of their colonial naiiH'S, and of the uses to which they are severally anjjlit'd, amounting to forty-two distinct species; hut I t'oiiiid it impossible, for want of time and from the dirfi- iiilfy of ol)taininf'' blossoms from the lofty trees, to j^-et even specimens. In the list will be found some fifteen or sixteen Liniuean names, which, with those of the eonntry, may he of assistance to travellers.* Niuncrous small rivers take their rise, and large lakes are found, in these extensive forests. One of the latter, in particular, has broken down its barrier, and comnui- iiieatcs with the sea through a narrow opening, in wliieli, however, there a])pear to be rocks that ob- struct the pat;sage of any vessels except small crafl. Within, it si)reads out to a large size, and its numerous arms run through the forests in various directions. It is called the Knysna. The whole of this line of country is boldly marked, and magnificently clothed ; and I do not hesitate to say, is beyond comparison the grandest and most beautiful portion of the whole colony. On the banks of a small rivulet, not far from Pletten- herg's Bay, I met with a whole forest of what I thought to be Strelitzia alba, whose tall tapering stems were as regular and well proportioned as the Corinthian shaft It was called by the peasantry the wild plantain, from its resemblance to the Musa sapient iuni. I have since discovered that the plant is not known in England, and that it may prohahly not be a Strelitzia, hut the * Inserted in Barrow's ' Travels into Soutliern Africa.' •i<i '. '•■..■' ; I ■ 'I ' i "^"■' 198 GRAAKF UKYNKT TO TlIK CAPK. 1<'HAI'. III. Ilolicoiiia alha. Many of tlicni ran to the he if- lit of five and twenty or tliirty leet. In proceeding to the (sastward, we found the Kayni.in or Crocodile Kiv(fr deej) and daiif>er()iis. It se|),irat(s the division of* IMetteidjcrg's Bay from Autiiii('(|ii;is Land, which the Dutch (Jovernnient ajjpropriatcd to itseltj on account of the grand forests and fine })asturiif:e, It extends to the lirakke Jliver, which falls from tliu north, and discharges itself into Mossel Bay. Hero 1 oI)served a stone huilding one luuidred and fifVv feet in length, ca))ahle of containing ten thousand hushols of corn. Fish of different kinds are here plentiful, ami nuiscles and oysters are aLun<huit. Near the landing- place, and under the lee of the rocks, were many liiiii- drcd loads of the shells of these animals. We crossed the Gauritz River, which, from its fre- quent and destructive floodings, may be called the sink of the colony. We next had to cross the False River, and then the Kaffir Kuyl's River, and found the couiitrv better inhabited. Neat houses were on the banks of the rivers; and the gardens, the vineyards, and fruitcrics were more extensive, and kept in a better state of cul- ture, than is generally the case. From Mossel Bay to the westward, the forests had ceased, but the country was found to improve; and the valley that stretches along the foot of the mountains, nearly to the Drosily of Zwellendam, is very beautiful. This village is com- posed of about twenty houses, scattered over a fertile valley, with a perpetual stream of water flowing down it; at the head of which is the dwelling of the landrost, with an excellent garden attached to it, surrounded by a plantation of oak. The river Zonderend, or Endless, brought us iiitn dlL^.J., Skit V.| (iltAAKI- HKVNKT TO TlIK CAl'K. lU!) the district of Stolloiihosch ; aiKl procecdiii}^ up the \,ill(V tlin)u;j,li which the Endless Kiver nieaihlers, I liilti'd at a ])lace called IJaviaM's Klootj where there was an estahlishinent oi' lleniliiiters, or Moravian inis- siuiiai'ics. They had been here several years, for th(! iMU'iMtse of instructing^ the Hottentots in the doctrines of Christianity. Since the colony had heconie English, liic number of their disciples had greatly increased, the Dutch having had no desire to Christianise the Hottentots. Karly in the morning I was awakened by some of the liiK'st voices I ever heard, and on looking out saw a fj,r()up of female Hottentots sitting on the ground. Meiiig Sunday, they had assembled thus early to chant the morning hymn. All were dressed in neat cotton gowns. A sight so diiferent from that 1 had hitherto been accustomed to witness, in regard to this unhapj)y class of beings, could not fail to be highly gratifying. Everything about the place was fomid to partake of that neatness and simplicity which distin- guish the character of their instructors. All was done, as it appeared, by the labour of this good people's own hands. The church they had built was plain and neat ; their mill for grinding corn was superior to any in the coloi'v; their garden was in high order, and produced ai)niidance of vegetables for the table. Six hundred Hottentots had been brought together hy these worthy people, and the number was daily in- creasing. They had all huts in the valley, each with a patch of ground for vegetables ; numbers of the English poor are not half so well off, and few better. Many learn trades, and are paid as soon as they can earn wages; some hire themselves out hy the week, month, ,> -• . k '■■ \ ,[-: mmri 200 GUAAFF llEYNET TO THE CAPE. [Ciur. 111. or year to the farmers ; others make mats and brooms for sale ; and some breed })oultry. They attend regularly at church, where it is their ambition to appear in neat and clean attire. Persiiii- sion and example had convinced them that cleanliness in their persons not oidy adds to the comforts of life, but is one of the greatest preservatives of health ; and that the little trifle of money they had to spare Mas much better applied in procuring decent covering lor the bod)', than in the })urchase of spirits and tobacco. Their deportment during divine service was truly de- vout, and I never heard a discourse, delivered by one of the fathers, more suited to his c.udience, more replete with good sense and admonition ; at the same time M) truly pathetic, that tears flowed abundantly from the female part of the congregation. The singing of these Avas plaintive and aifecting, and in general their voices were sweet and harmonioi ,. About fifty, I understood, had been admitted as members of the Christian faith by the ceremony of baptism. It will scarcely be credited, and yet it appears to he too true, that the brutality and gross depravity of the boors, even so near to the capital, had led about thirty of them to enter into a confederacy to murder the three teachers, seize all the young Hottentots, and force them into their seivice. On a Saturday evening, they had assembled to carry the villainous intention into effect on the following day. The teachers had some clays before been made acquainted with their plan through a Hottentot, who had deserted from the service of one of the confederates, and they sent instantly to acquaint Sir James Craig, who immediately took steps to di.ssolve the confederacy, and threatened vengeance on their Skct. VI.] COUNTUY OF THE NAMAAQUAS, 201 heads if he heard anythiiip: more of it. The overseer of the valley received the letter, and the very day they had assembled for their infamous purpose read it to them, on which the ])oltrooMS sneaked off each to his own home. On the I7tli I reached and descended the Hottentots' Hollands' Kloofj a difficult and almost im])racticahlc pass at that time over the mountains into the Cape dis- trict ; but which now, I am told, has been made a fine tiirii])ike road. Its distance from Cape Town is about thirty-six miles, an easy day's journey, which I made oil the 18th of January, not sorry to have brought to ail end a seven months' tour, in the course of which many personal inconveniences and difficulties had oc- ciirrecl, to be borne and surmounted only, by a deter- iiiiiiatioii to perform a duty, as well as to gratify curi- osity at the expense of comfort. Section VI. Joiirneij iiuo the Country of the Naiiiaaquas. I HAD the great satisfaction to find that Lord Macartney \vasiiiuch pleased with the brief account I had been able to give him, occasionally by letter, and on my return ill person, of my travels ; of which I told him he should have a detailed account fairly drawn out in writing, but that I had yet mother journey to make, in order to complete the examination of the outline of the colony, hy proceeding to its farthest northern boundary on the western or Atlantic side, and through that part of it which is inhabited by certain tribes of the Hottentot lace called the Namaaquas. Lord Macartney said, % ' » • < 202 COUNTRY or THK NAMAAQUAS. [CUAI'.III. "I cannot, in conscience, send you forth again immedi- ately; and, besides, I shall have occasion for you here; however, if you think it advisable now to finish your labours, it is better, perhaps, that you should go at once, and what I wish to communicate to you can be done on your return." I said, "It certainly was im wish to com})lete what I had nearly finished, and I shall start forthwith, with your })ermission, and avail myself of the privilege of taking- voorspan oxen or cattle, su])plied by the farmers, from station to station, for the service of Government free from charge." I knew that April was the worst time of the year to commence a journey of this kind, on account of the drought and the approach of winter; nevertheless, I left Cape Town and its fascinations with a covered waggon and twelve stout oxen in good condition, a single horse, a negro slave, a waggoner and leader— my old companions — and an additional Hottentot to attend the oxen as relays. These are aff'orded for the con- venience of those who travel on public service, and are a tax on farmers, which obliges them to furnish these vooi\y)ans or fo7'irardin<j teams of oxen, free of expense, in consideration of the powder and ball formerly sup- plied to them by the Dutch Government for their ex- peditions against the Bosjesmans. I was authorised in both journeys to avail myself of this privilege, whicli was never once refused, but comj)lied with witliont a murnuu", and, I may add, very rarely exacted from I them. I M'as alone, and none of my Hottentots knew a step I of the way ; but I could go, as the Dutch used to senJ their letters, van huis tot hui.^ (from house to house) Eighteen miles the first day brought me to Koc-berg,j SaT. VI.] COUNTRY OF Tl E NAiMAAQUAS. 20;j twenty miles on the second to Greene-lioof. Here I t'ound plenty of wtiter and good pasturage for cattle and horses, and plenty of antelopes and smaller game to shoot. The family of Slaht'rt, of Tca-fontcyn,, is well known to all travellers ; it was my next stage, a.id they amused nie with the romances told hy M. Yaillant, whom they lodged for some time. The next stage was 8alilanli;i Bay, a much superior anchorage for shipping of all sizes than Table Bay, but surrounded by a deep sandy oountiy and without fresh water. Saint Helena Bay is the next stage, but exposed to the n ;rthward like T.dde Bay ; the Berg River, a i,n'eat mass of water, flows into it, but the entrance is so ?anded up that boats only can cross the bar, and that but occasionally. As it was necessary I should cross this river, I travelled (itlecn miles from its mouth to arrive at a ford to get the waggon over, and the deep sand on the opposite side made our ])rogress so very flow that it became dark and required three hours' dragging backwards ^ind forwards before 1 found the intended halting-place — a wretched hovel of rushes in the midst of a sandy plain ; the night cold, and neither food nor shelter for the hcrses nor water for the cattle. I therefore pushed on at the risk of losing my way a second time, having about four miles yet to proceed I through deep sand before I should reach the next station, which, when reached, turned out to be a hovel, I very little better than that I had left, where every thing [wore evident marks of poverty. It was on these miserable plains that the Abbe de la Caille undertook and terminated the measurement of liis base, for ascertaining the length of a degree of the meridian of the southern hemisphere. In this horrible •• ■ I •I'M*! ■) MHIHII! 204 COUN'TKY 01' THE NAMAAQUAS. LCii.M>. Ill, tract of sand and bushes he actually measured a l);isc line of 38,80:i feet, and repeated it three times over. The British Government, desirous of following up wJint the French had commenced, established first an ol). servatbry lu'ar to Ca})e Town, and having sujjpliod it with all the instruments necessary for astronomical pur- poses, the astronomer was directed to procure siich assistance as should be requisite, aiul to remeasnrc the same line; aiul I have understood that it very elosdv ai)proximated that of M. de la Caille. At the end of my next journey the oxen for relavs having followed the waggon alone wit lout the Hotten- tot, his companions grew uneasy about him. ILiviiii; coiuplained of head-ache on the previous evening;', I gave him an emetic, and, naturally enough, they kept repeating in my hearing that he nuist have died on the road, insinuating that the emetic had killed him. In the morning, however, he made his appearance, havinir it would '^eem fallen asleep. Though dark and witlidiit knowing a step of the way, he discovered us by the track of the waggon. A Hottentot is wonderthlly clever op Iiet spoor^ that is, tracking foot-marks; he knows the print of every wild animal that he has ever seen, but the great variations in the feet of domesti- cated animals will sometimes puzzle him ; as the woK for instance, he easily distinguishes from the tame ihig, but he is perplexed by the nuu'ks of such dogs ashti has not had any acquaintance with: of the nunuToii>| species of antelope he will point out the apoor of each. At the eastern extremity of the vast sandy plain, 1 1 passed the Ficqud-berg, a clump of hills that stand in front of a range of mountains, at the foot of which the Elephants' River flows to the ncrthward before it tiiriid Skct. VI.] COUNTRY OF THE NAl^IAAQUAS. 205 wostorly to enter the Atlantic. I found, however, that I liiul only got rid of the sandy ])lains to encounter a siric'S of most extraordinary sand-hills. Out of the coarse crystallized sand and fragments of sandstone iivoso a nmltitude of ])yramidal columns, some several liuiidi'cd feet in diameter and as many in height ; they wore of sandstone, honnd together hy veins of a tinner texture, containing iron. Their "avernous aj)- pearaiiee, nnd the coarse sand in which their hases I wore buried, left little douht in my mind, that these pyramids had once been unit(!(l, making one con- nected mountain similar to the great northern range. Streamlets of water among these n)ass(!s had Ibrmed a lake called the V\'rloore)i Lake (the forsaken or lost lake) ; but it was not forsaken, being belted by good grouiul and tolerably well iiduibited. I here met with an ardent spirit distilled from water-melons of an im- mense size. On the '21st, I turned to the eastward ami, with six- teen fresh oxen in the waggon, crossed the Elephants' Iiiver, and also the Black Mountain, to which it runs jiarallel ; the latter took me eight hours. On the broad summit, the same kind of ])yramids occur, some of which I reckoned to be not less than a thou- i sand feet high ; they form the ridge of the great K'liain, which is about five miles in width. But what strange people the peasantry of the Cape arc! On the very summit of this mountain, close to a little spring lof water and a patch of ground around it, a boor jhad erected his cottage, which wretched hovel, in the linidst of a violent storm, I found crowded with both Isexes in the height of gaiety. The owner had just re- Iturucd from the Cape, and brought with him a supply ' • i-" 206 COUNTKY OF THE NAMAAQUAS. [CiiAr. III. of brandy, with which thev were making merry. A cask of sopie is purchased by the poorest boor on liis annual visit to the Cape, and it has little rest day or night till it is exhausted. Friends and strangers are equally welcome to it as long as it will run. This range of mountains on the eastern side de- scended gradually to the commencement of a Karroo plain, where I was visited by a party of Bosjcsnians, headed by a captain or chief. This man, I found, was well known, had been prevailed on to quit his maraud- ing way of life with his whole herd, and he and his family had now, for the last fifteen years, lived here peaceably and industriously. He said he had no doubt that many other of his countrymen might be induced to live quietly in the service of the farmers, for nothing could be so miserable as their present mode of life. My Hottentot guide learned from him that water was to be had at the Lieiiw Kinjl, or Lion's Den, on the other side of the Karroo. On the 28th, proceeding through a pass of the hills, we entered upon what is called the Namaaqua country, consisting of hill and dale, with little vegetation except the enormous aloe known by the specific name oi'dick- toma. We proceeded to the Hartebeest lliver, whicli promised well, but was perfectly dry; its bed being I pebbly, I had the curiosity to dig about five feet, and I came to a stream of pure water trickling through tlie gravelly bed ; and I profited by the experiment on iny return in more than one dry river; an experiment | which I hope will not be neglected by future tra- vellers. Near this place was a kraal of Namaaqua Hotteu- tots, or, as they are here pleased to call them, Bosjes- ' ■ . ili*t ' i; CiiAi'. HI. rry. A 1 r on Ills 1 3t day or 1 ngers are 1 Strr. VI.] COUNTRY OF THE X A MA AQUAS. 207 mans, but I could find no difference. I passed the night with thoni, and saw their sheep, which might amount to three thousand, brought home in the evening ; they had also a few cattle and a herd of small spotted handsome goats. The sheep had long, not broad, tails. The next day I came to the hovel of a Dutch boor, amidst the ruins of the K hainiesherr/ mountains; he was a tall old man, vnth. a dingy face almost covered with black hair. In one corner of the chimney sat an old Hottentot woman, over whose head must have passed a century of years. A female slave next made her appearance, of a piece with the two former. Hospitality, however, was found even here. The fag- got presently crackled on th : hearth, a quarter of a sheep was laid on the coals, and the repast speedily served up on the lid of an old chest, covered with a remnant of cloth apparently of the same piece as that of the female slave's petticoat. A brother and sister of this old gentleman lived each unmarried and separately in these mountains, and, like him, entirely in the society of Hottentots. I was told that they were nearly re- lated to one of the wealthiest families in Cape Town. I must say that he appeared to conduct himself like one that had, in his earlier days, lived in a different sphere ; was exceedingly obliging and gave an excellent voorspan for the northward ; and I was also further indebted to him for the assistance he afforded me, on my return, by another voorspan, which he had sent forward to fall in with the waggon in the midst of the Karroo. I found, however, that with the very best cattle i* was utterly impracticable to get the waggon over the last chain of the Khamiesberg. I attempted to cross them on horseback, but a thick 1,, • .." ' V * 1. 'I ^^^:' 208 COUNTRY OF THE NAMAAQUAS. [Chap, in. fog coming on, followed by heavy rain, I was glad to make my retreat, and to think of bending my way to the southward. Besides, I had now got the last span of oxen I could hope for, on this side of the Orange lliver, or anywhere beyond the Khamiesberg, had 1 succeeded in passing it; the only regret I felt Mas tin disappointment of not obtaining a view of the Orange liiver at or near to its mouth. There is something very remarkable in those Khamies, or cluster-mountains : they consist of large rounded masses of granite ; each mountain being,-, in fact, one naked uiidivided rock, and each of these masses bearing a striking resemblance to the two granite blocks in or near to Drakenstein, known by the names of the Paarl and the Diamond, which, however, are mere dwarfs to those of the Khamiesberg. Close to these mountains are beds of stratified rock, curiously coloured red and yellow ; they are taken up in large flags, and therefore called by the boors plank-stoik; it cuts easily with a knife. Another species of stone is here found, of a greenish colour, indicating the presence of copper. The hills hereabouts, indeed, are called the Copper Mountains, from the quantity of malachite strewed over the surface. That species of stone is also found here, of an apple-green colour, to which has been given the name oi' prelinitc, and which the Dutch con- vert into tobacco-pipes : not the most lasting or suitable material, as the heat destroys its colour. The poor Namaaqua Hottentots were once an inde- pendent race ; but the influx of the Dutch boors, bad as the country is, has, to a great degree, reduced them to a dependent state ; but still in a better condition than their countrymen on the eastern side of the colony;! ,i.»!: Skct. VI.l RETURN TO CAPE TOWN. 209 their huts are extremely neat and cleanly, they are Dprfijct hemispheres, covered with matting, made of sedges, and ten or twelve feet in diameter. The Hot- tentot considers the lion his most formidable enemy, and is quite certain that he will single him out to be devoured in preference of an European, which I thought not improbable : for the strong smell of his bucca (dios- iiia), and the grease with which he smears his body, are sure to give notice to the lion that he is a morsel ready basted for eating. I now began to think of making the best of my way home, skirting the boundary-line to the westward, through the Under, the Middle, and the Little Rogge- velds, and the Ilantam Mountains ; the last is famous for its breed of horses, of which, however, many porish every season, being poisoned, it is supposed, by a kind of grass, or some other herbage. The Kom, or Cup Mountain, is the loftiest of the Roggevelds, being, by Colonel Gordon's measurement, fifteen hundred feet higher than the Table Mountain, or five thousand feet above the Karroo plains. Beyond these plains, and on the northern side of the Orange River, are a numerous tribe of Bosjcsmen, or Hottentots, called the Koranas^ similar to the Namaaquas, who are represente.' as a formidable people, especially to the Kaffirs dweLx.ig to the eastward of them. Arriving at the warm Bokkeveld, I was not far from my furmer track through Roodesand, on my way to GraafF Reynet. Here every thing wears the appearance of comfort : springs that never fail, good grass for cattle, and abundant harvests for the grain farmer ; and thus it continues through the district called the Four-and- p • •. • 210 ArtKIVAL AT OAPK TOWN. [Chap. Ml. Twenty Kivcrs, which extends to the bank of the Bors llivcr, and is most fertile in corn, grass, and fruits. There seems to be nothing wanting but a certain dogni; of hd)our and intelligence in the mode of culture, with enclosed plantations for shelter, warmth, and moisture, tij render that part of the Cape district, lying within tiic great range of mountains, alone fully adequate for the supply of all the necessaries and comforts of life, not only for the town and garrison of the Cape, but for all the shipping that will probably ever cuter its ports fur trade or refreshment. I now directed my route across the Tygcr Ber;r, mounted my horse, and arrived in Cape Town on tlie 2nd of June, without having experienced any of those inconveniences which the worst season of the year and the difficult nature of the country seemed at starting to threaten. Thus, between the 1st of July, 179G, and the 18th of January, 1/07, I had traversed every part of the colony of the Cape of Good lIo})e, and visited the .several countries of the Kaffirs, the Hottentots, and the Bus- jesmen; peribrming a journey exceeding three thousand miles, on horseback, on foot, and very rarely in a covered waggon ; and full one-half of the distance as a pedestrian. During the whole time (with the exception of a few nights passed at the Dro.sdy House of (iraaiF Reynet) I never slept under a roofj but always in niv waggon, and in the cot that I brought with me in the good ship ' Trusty ' from England. Sect. VII.) RESIDENCE ON THE CAPE PENINSULA. 211 Section VIT. Rmknce on the Cape Peninsula — Departure of Lord Macartney — Appointment of General Francis Dun- das— Superseded hy Sir (Jeorye Youny, and speedily reinstated — Sent on a Military Mission to the East- cmpai of the Colony. My first visit on iny return was, of course, to the Go- vernor, who gave nio a most cordial and welcome re- ception ; he now hoped that my travels were at an end, and that the recollection of my intercourse and negotiations with the rehel boors, the Kaffirs, and the Hottentots, would contribute to the relish of a more civilized society ; " but," he added, " have you seen your friend Maxwell ? " " I have seen nobody, my Lord ; I considered it my first duty to wait on your Lordship, to report my arrival and proceedings." " Then you will not be sorry to hear," he said, *' that your colleague is no longer my secretary. Authorised by my instruc- tions, I have appointed him to the situation of CoinjD- trolli'.r of the Cu'^tonis, which gives him an advance of live hundred pound.s a-year : that is to say, a salary of one thousand pounds ; and be assured you were not forgotten in your absence, and that it affords me real pleasure to be able to do the same thing by you, in conferring on you the appointment of Auditor- General of Public Accounts Civil and MiUtari/, and here (hand- ing mo a paper) is your commission." I was so overwhelmed with gratitude to my ever- Iviiid benefactor, that such a piece of unexpected good- fortune, coming suddenly upon me, literally took away my speech ; I made a low bow, and turned aside in r 2 'J 12 KKSIDKNCK ON TlIK CAPli PKNINSULA. [(11*1.111. silence. His Lordsliip saw my oiiiharrassiiieiit, said "(Jive me your hand," and with a hearty squeeze, "I cordially congratulate you ; t()-nM)rrow I shall have a new commission to give you of a domestic nature." I judged what it was to he, for he hiiiti;d at it when I proposed to proceed to the Namaaijuas. He then said, " I can assure vou tlu.^ Mr. Dundas will not he tholast person to he ])leased with the report oi' your seviral missions." He added, " I shall return you what re- maining ])apers I have concerning your journeys; and if you could spare tinu; to make a fair and coniplifc coj)y for me to take home and deliver to Mr. Htiirv Dundas, I am sure you will very much gratify him and oblige me." Nothing, I said, wotdd he more agree- able to me than this. In fact, my narratives only re- quired to be filled u]), corrected, arranged, and written out fair, to he fit to put into the hands of the Secretary of State. I placed the complete c()])y, when iiiiislied, in Lord Macartney's possession, and heard no more of it till it came back to mc at the Cape, in })rint, and in the shape of a portly quarto volume. In justice to my excellent and never-failing friend Sir George Staunton, I cannot omit stating how muelil am indebted to bin;, while in my absence, for the most cheerful and effectual manner in which he had under- taken the management of this volume. He detailed to me the whole of his proceedings. Mr. Dundas told Lord Macartney he nmst have it })ul)lishe(l ; and liis Lordship carried the MS. to Sir George Staunton, who offered it to Cadell and Davies, and asked lOUO/. for the copyright. They said it was a large sum lor the work of an author new in the world ; that, before they made their offer, they must refer it, as usual, to a •I'l' < . .1 SfCT. VII.] HKSIDKNCE ON TIIK CAl'lC PENINSULA. 213 (ieiitlciiiaii conversant witli works ol' this kind, niid tliat ill tilt' j)rc'sc'nt instance it would l)e sent to Dr. (jiillics. "St'iid it to whom yon ])least'," was tlie answer. Dr. (i lilies, they reportecJ, ^ave a flivoiu'ahle account of it, l)iit tliey liesitated at the j)rice demanded. "Name your own," said Sir (Jeorge, and they mentioned 8(30/. "Aye, now, I see," lie says, " we shall come to an afjjree- iiicut ailer the triK' tradesman-like manner, hy splittinj^ fiiL' diilerence ; say *.)()()/., and I will close with you." It was jiiven ; and as a proof of the great attention bestowed on my labours by Sir (ieorge Staunton — that kindest and hist of i'riends — the work passed through the press, was scut out by his direetion, and arrived at tiie Cape, to- gether with a favourable review of it, about half-u-year before the evacuation of the coh)ny; but, ahis ! my friend and beiietiictor was no more. In a letter of the '2nd of January, 1801 — the last, it is thought. Sir George wrote, having died on the I4th of that month — he was not forgetful of me or of my concerns, the concluding ]>a- ra^ra])h of that letter being, " Mr. Barrow's book is at length finished ; it will be ])ublished in a few days." I lis son observes thav " even when in the last stage of bodily intiniiity, and while labouring under a disease — .a para- lytic atfection — which almost invariably impairs the intollcct,— neither the powers of his father's mind nor the affections of his heart suffered any abatement." The same arrival brought me a letter to announce my father's death, after a short illness. But to return to my narrative. The pre])aration of my journal of travels did not interfere with the exami- ; nation I proposed to make of the Cape Peninsula, of wliieli 1 had yet literally seen nothing, not even more than the outline of the Table Mountain. However, I 214 RESIDENCE ON THE CAPE PENINSULA. [Cuap. Ill, 'I was one day in conversation with Lady Anne Barnard, when she asked if I had nerve enough to take her with me to the top of the Table Mountain ? I said that if she thought ]icr nerves or her strength would not fail her, 1 should be most happy to do my best to escort her. She only bargained that her maid, a strapping Scotch ]ass, should attend her. We set out; but on reachinv a spot, about midway of the ravine, across which L deep rugged stratum stretches, and ^nust be clambered over. Lady Anne, by perseverance and a little help, got over it ; the Scotch lassie, however, bo- came frightened and gave in, and was assisted in getting down to the plain by a man-servant that attended us, and wc heard nothing more of her. I took Lady Anne to the very edge of the precipice, from whence the flat-roofed houses of Cape Town had the appearance of those little card houses made by chil- dren, and the shubbcrics on the sandy isthmus were reduced to black spots like dots on a sheet of white paper. On the weather-worn summit we found growing various shrubs: among others, the Paicea mucronata, a tall, elegant, frutesccnt plant, said to be peculiar to tliis situation ; as is also that species of heather called J^Jiea phi/sodes, which, with its white, glazed, gelatinous flowers, exhibits in the sunshine a very beautiful ap- pearance. Lady Anne anmsed herself by collocting some specimens, and got safe down, delighted with her adventure. This, however, brought another expedition of a dif- ferent kind upon a small party of us. Lord Macartney, not displeased to have an opportunity of putting a person on his mettle, said to his aide-de-camp at dinner one day, "Colyear, Sir James Craig's aide-de-camp rode iii'i: \M Sr.cT. VII.] KE3IDENCE ON THE CAPE PENINSULA. 215 up to the top of Table Mountain, which was considered a great and singular feat." " I sup])ose," says Colyear, "others can do it as well as he:" and, addressing him- self to Maxwell and nie, " Let us take our horses," he said, " to-morrow moi :ing and perform this great feat: but ^vho knows the way?" I mentioned that, in going to Constantia, I rode along the foot of the southern side of Tcible JMountain, which descends by a succcs- siou of strata, like a flight of gigantic steps; and it was up these, as I was informed, that persons have been known to asccmd to the top. We made a party the following morning — we three alone; but when, with great diflficulty on the part of the horses, we had reached about two-thirds of the way up, Colyear, standing by his horse, called out for assistance, said he was hel])less, his sight was gone, and he felt sick. We made him sit down, and in the course of an hour he partially recovered ; but nothing could induce him to remount his horse, which I was obliged to take care of, as well as of my own ; and we slowly scrambled down the mountain, two of us leading the three horses. Colyear was as brave a soldier as any in the whole gar- rison, but on the present occasion his nerves wholly gave wav. On the lower part of the front or north face of the Table Mountain there gushes out of a crevice made by two strata a permanent stream of pure water, gliding over a granite slab, on the face of which are embeddcid large pieces of tourmaline. Part of this stream was conducted to a fountain at the lower part of the town, vhcre many hundred slaves, in the course of the day, \vcrc accustomed to assemble, wrangling, fighting, and noting for their turn of getting water for domestic pur- .;<! 216 RESIDEWCE ON THE CAPE PENINSULA. [Ciup. III. It poses. The fiscal had constantly two of his men sta- tioned there to preserve the peace. He said to me one day, " How do you contrive in London to get a supply of water into the houses? — here there are not fcwor than a thousand slaves occupied entirely in fetching water intc the dwelling-houses." I told him that, ^vitll. out a siui^'le slave, the Table Mountain afforded the means of supplying every house in the town with abun- dance of V ater, even up to the highest story ; and I promised to get a proper plan made out, on my arrival in England, and send it to him. On the re-capture of the place, Lord Caledon took out the plan, and carried it into execution ; and now every house in Cape Town has, or may have, as much water as they choose, to the very top, at a trifling expense, without the necessity of employing a single slave. Between the town and the base of the mountain are several pleasant residences, with good gardens; the principal of these is the government-house, standing in the midst of a garden of about forty acres ; a public walk, of one thousand yards in length, runs up the middle of the garden, well shaded by an avenue of oak- trees, and enclosed on each side by a hedge of cut myrtles. Lord Macartney, whose inclination was to blend the utile dulcl where it could be done, appro- priated a portion of this public gardtjn for the reception, not only of scarce and curious native plants, but also for the trial of such Asiatic and European productions as might seem likely to be cultivated with benefit to the colony. Most of the useful Euroj)ean plants were already successfully cultivated in the Cape district, and most of the fruits, both European and Asiatic. Of the native Sect. VII.] RESIDENCE ON THE CAPE PENINSULA, 217 plants, those of the greatest use and beauty are to be found on the sides and au the base of the Table Moun- tain. On the western side may be seen whole woods of the Pi'otea argentea, planted solely for fuel; also the conaav'pa, grandifiora, sj^eciosa, and melltfcra, for the same purpose ; and, moreover, the larger species of Ericas, phylicas, brunias, polygalas, the Olea Capensis, Euclea racemosa, sophora, and many other arboreous plants, that grow abundantly both on the peninsula and the isthmus. In the month of September, at the close of the rainy season, the plain stretching along the shore of Table Bay, and known by the name of the Green Point, exhi- bits a beautifid appearance, the whole surface being enlivened by the large Otuoima (so like our daisy as to deceive many), springing out of the low creeping TrifoUum meUlotos ,• various species of the Oxalis, in every tint of colour, from brilliant red, purple, violet, yellow, down to snowy white ; then the Hypoxis, or star-flower, with its radiated corolla of golden yellow, others of unsullied white, and others again containing iii ;ch flower white, violet, and deep green, equally numerous and more beautiful. A walk by the foot of the Table Mountain will de- light the admirer of the bulbous-rooted and liliaceous tribes of plants, flourishing in their native soil — the various species of amaryllis, the gladiolus, antholiza, iris, and mora-a — the numerous and elegant tribe of ixias — the albuca, ornithogalum, anthericum, or aspho- del — the beautiful lachenalia, of various and lively colours, perhaps peculiar to the Cape — the Ifemanthus coccineus, with its pair of broad stemless leaves and deep blood-coloured flower, conspicuously enlivening •M' . > ' V ■• 218 RESIDENCE ON THE CAPE PENINSULA. [Ciiai-. HI, the level and nearly naked plain on which it is generally found. But, ahove all, must he noticed a heautifiil little hunihle ixia, Avliich the Dutch call the avoiid-hhmi (the evening flower) ; it is the modest Lna cimiamomea, which, having concealed itself during the day within its hrown calyx, now expands its small white hlossoms, and perfumes the air, throughout the night, with its fragrant odour. Nor will the family of ':he geraniiuu he overlooked, which scents the sides of the hills Avitli its variety of foliage, imitating that of almost evcrv genus of the vegetahle part of the creation. These arc fair v/eather objects; and the climate is generally delightful; hut when a storm does come, at certain seasons of the year, it rages most furiously. Ahout the heginning of the spring, that is in September, Table Bay is considered to be safe for shi})ping, tlie wind then blowing with its fleecy cloud down the mountain towards the sea; and that safety is calcu- lated to continue through the summer ; yet, on the otli of November, 1799, towards the middle of sunnncr, II.M.S. 'Sceptre,' with seven others, were driven on shore by a north-westerly wind, and the first of them was totally wrecked. The house I inhabited looked directly over the Bay, and the apparent loss of the whole — for all were driven on shore — was one of the most melancholy sights I ever beheld. At one o'clock the ' Sceptre ' fired a feu-de-joie in commemoration of the Gunpowder Plot; at tei; the same evening not a vestige of the ship was seen, but the fragments of a wreck scattered on the strand in myriads of pieces, not a single plank remaining whole. Captain Kdwanls and his son, with ten other officers, and nearly three hundred seamen and marines, perished, and were 1 y i.l Sect. VII.] RESIDENCE ON THE CAPE PENINSULA. 219 one o clock mangled among the remnants of the ship and the sharp rocks. Young Edwards, the son of the caj)tain, was found with a pocket Bible in his bosom. It was ncces- sarv to bury many of the men in holes dug on the beach ; all that could be taken up were placed on wag- gons and carried to the usual burying-ground. The 'Oldenburg,' a Danish G4-gun ship, w^as also driven on shore, but at a point where the beach was of sand. Lord Macartney was spared the witnessing of this fad catastrophe, having left the Cape the previous vcar. An event, however, had occurred, to call for all that decision of character which his Lordship pos- sessed in an eminent degree. The mutiny in the fleet at home produced a nmtiny in the sipiadron at the Cape, when at anchor in Simon's Bay, in October, 1707. The ilag-ship took the lead, and the rest fol- lowed ; officers were deprived of their commands, (k'legatcs appointed, and all the rebellious formalities of the mutineers in England imitated. The firm con- duct, however, of Admiral Pringle, after a few days of riot and anarchy, succeeded in establishing order and (liscii)line, and the royal standard was hoisted in the 'Tremendous.' On the return of the scpiadron to Table Bay, on being joined by some King's ships from St. Helena, fresh disturbances broke out, and the mu- tineers in the flag-ship again took the lead, while lying at anchor off" the Amsterdam battery, within point- Wank shot. Lord Macartney determined at once to bring it to an issue ; he repaired, with his aides-de- camp, to the Amsterdam battery, ordered the guns to be loaded, and the shot to be heated in the ovens ; and, taking out his watch, he dispatched a message to the 'Tremendous,' that if the mutineers did not make an • 10 .. f^Jki 220 UESIDENCE ON THE CAPE PENINSULA. [Cuap, III. unconditional submission within half an hour of that time, and hoist the royal standard as a signal of tlitir having done so, he would blow the ship out of the water. The signal of submission was made : had it not bLtii done within the period assigned, no one doubted that Lord Macartney would have played the whole battcrv upon her, until she was either burnt, sunk, or dt- stroyed. In a private letter to Mr. Dundas he says, " It ap- pears solely to have proceeded from mere wantonness in the sailors, and a vanity of aping their fraternity in England." And he adds, " This spirit of sea mu- tiny seems like the sweating sickness in the reign of Edward IV. — a national malady, which, as we are assured by historians of the day, not content with its devastations in England, visited at the same time every Englishman in foreign countries, at the most distant parts of the globe. ' Tlie general air, From pole to pole, from Atlas to tlie East, "Was then at enmity M'itli Enrjlish blood.' That which must now be shed will, I trust, be the last that shall be necessary to sacrifice, on such an account, in this squadron." After this, Lord Macartney remained about a twelve- month to conduct the administration of affairs at the Cape of Good Hope, a period that was distinguished by the same system of public economy, by the same in- tegrity and disinterestedness, which had marked his career in every former public situation of his life ; and the same good effects were experienced here, as else- where, in spite of the national prejudice of the inha- bitants. The colony, indeed, advanced rapidly to a I Sect. VII.] DEPARTURE OF LORD MACARTNEY. 221 degree of prosperity which it had never known under its ancient masters; the public revenue was nearly doubled, without the addition of a single tax, and the value of every kind of property was increased in proportion. Lord Macartney, in accepting the government of the Cape, made it a condition that, should his health so far give v;ay as to make it ex})edient for him to return to England, he should be authorised to transfer the duties to the next in command. He found that event to have arrived, and he wrote to Mr. Dundas to say that, from the experience and the knowledge of the country pos- sessed by the Lieutenant-Governor, Major-General Dundas, he did not hesitate to transfer the government to him, adding, " I am happy on this occasion to ex- press the perfect satisfaction I have received from his co-operation with me, in every instance during my resi- dence here, and it would be great injustice to him were I not thus to acknowledge it." On the 20th of November, 1798, his Lordship em- barked on boaid the 'Stately,' leaving the Major- General vested with the powers of Governor and Com- mander-in-Chief^ and in the enjoyment of the full salary of 10,000/. a-year, his Lordship having directed that his own salary should cease from the day of his ; embarcatiou. It was a gloomy day at the Cape when [Lord Macartney took his leave, for he had made him- self beloved and respected by the best part of the in- ihabitants; but no sooner was his departure made jknown to the ignorant and misguided boors in the dis- Itant districts, than those of Graaff Reynet, anxious to jbe let loose upon the Kaffirs, held a select meeting, at hhich they came to a resolution that " Now that the Vt.J'^.|i:! 222 GENERAL DUNDAS GOVERNOR. [Chap. III. Ill old Lord was gone away, they would prove themselves true patriots." And so they did in their sense of the word. Their first act was to rescue by violence, out of the hands of justice, a criminal whom the landrost had forwarded, under the escort of a dragoon, towards the Capo to take his trial. Being a " true patriot," and too valu- able a member to be taken off' by a regular course of justice, fourteen fellow-patriots followed the dragoon to the Karroo to rescue the culprit. The dragoon, how- ever, demurred, and told them that sooner than sutftr his prisoner to be taken out of his hands he would blow out his brains. The landrost's secretary had aceoiii- panied the prisoner, and fearing that bloodshed was likely to result, prevailed on the dragoon to let tin; culprit be taken back to the landrost, to which he re- luctantly assented, and the fourteen patriotic poltroons | followed back the waggon to the Drosdy, keeping at; proper distance. These fellows, with a number of boors, whom tlioyl had collected near the Great Fish River, set about or- ganizing their forces, with the view of attacking ami I plundering the Kaffirs, who had remained quiet ; but they were anticipated by the vigilance of the new Governor, who directed a detachment of dragoons, a few companies of infantry, and part of the Hottentot corps, under the command of General Vandeleur, to proceed to that district. The moment the marauding party were apprised of this they broke up their camp I and dispersed, leaving in the hands of a neutral pcvso a humble petition acknowledging their error and in ploring forgiveness. The General returned a verbi answer that until they had voluntarily surrenderedj 1 1. . Sect. VII.] GENERAL DUNDAS GOVERNOR. 223 themselves, and laid their arms at his feet, he could hold 110 coinniunication with rebels ; that he should name a certain plrce and day, and all who should not attend would be considered as rebels and traitors to His Majesty's Governnieiit, and would be treated ac- coi'diiigly. Most of them made their appearance ; and such a motlev group was quite enough to disturb the gravity I of the General, good-humoured as he always was. However, he selected nine of the ringleaders, and sent [them under an escort on board His Majesty's ship 'Kattlcsnake,' then at anchor in Algoa Bay; and on [the rest levied a fine towards defraying the expense of the expedition which their absurd and rebellious con- iduct had occasioned. General Dundas was not a little disconcerted by this [disastrous turn of affairs ha})pening so speedily after |his assumption of the reins of government; and one Iday, at a large dinner party, he said he had just received la dispatch from General Vandeleur that had made tiim very uneasy, and the more so as the General was at a loss whom to trust, or fi-om whom to take advice ; iioreover, as he was ignorant of the language of the )utch boors, of the KaflSrs, and of the Hottentots, who vere all quarrelling and fighting with one another, I' who I am to send," he said, " I know not. Barrow [addressing himself to me), can you advise me ? " I aid, " General, I know nothing of military matters, but liave had tolerably good experience of the squabbles Ind conduct of the three parties you mention, and if rou think I can be of the least possible use, I will most |fillingly proceed to the General's head-quarters." He lid it was the very thing that he wished, but he could • ' *" ' 224 MILITARY MISSION TO THE [Chap. Ill, not venture to ask it after the fatiguing journey<3 1 had already had. " But," he added. " if you are really not indisposed for the journey, I know of no other so fit or who would set me so much at ease; but I cannot at least suffer you to go alone ; you shall have a Serjeant's party of the 8th dragoons, and Lieutenant Smyth, niv aide-de-camp, shall accompany you." Accordingly, without delay, I joined the Lieutenant, with twenty-five mounted dragoons, at the pass called Hottentots' Holland's Kloof, with an excellent horse and a black servant on another, without encunibrame of any kind, determined to proceed rapidly, to partakt of the farmers' fare, and to sleep at their habitations for the first time. My route was to be the direct line towards Algoa Bay, where I expected to find tlie General. I had so recently passed over the same route that no guides were required. My only in- struction was to place myself in communication witli the General, and to afford him the benefit of my ex- perience and assistance. I had, however, a separate instruction to take into custody, and to send u\) to the Cape, a certain boorwlio was known to be in communication with the rebels of Graaff" Reynet, and who had assisted them with gun- powder. Lieutenant Smyth, with a party of the Stii light dragoons, arrested and escorted him to the land- rost ; on his return a violent thunder-storm arose, anJ the rain descended in such torrents as to fill to tlie brim the channel of a river that, the day before, liaJ not a drop of water in it. The Hottentot, unable to withstand the rapidity of the current, let go the rope; the oxen turned their heads with the direction oftk stream ; the waggon was upset ; and two of the younsj ,ii« (■ . : I >UT. VII.] EASTERN PART OF THE COLONY. 225 men, wlio could not swim, were seen no more ; and my companion, Smyth, with the rest, had a very narrow escape. The Uth of March was the hottest and most oppres- sive day I ever remember to have experienced in South Africa. The horse 1 rode was so overcome with the heat, that he literally dropped down under me, and was unable to carry me any fartlier. And now, for the lirst time, I experienced the sort of comfort of takiiifi; up a night's lodginiJ,' with one of the African boors. We reached at lent?th the hovel of a shoe- maker. Unfortunately, it happened to be Sunday, and the shoemaker being known to all his nearest neigh- bours, within three or four miles, to be a jolly good fellow, who generally had a glass of wine and a strong i<opie to regale his friends, the house was crowded with people. There were but two apartments ; one filled with the company, the other oceuj)ie(l by Smyth and myself. The heat of the weather, and the closeness of the room, with only one small aperture to admit the light, filled w ith such " a congregation of foul and pestilential vapours," would have nauseated stomachs much less squeamish than ours. ]Iow often, in the course of this night, did I bless my good fortune in having the comfortable lodging which my waggon and my cot never failed to supply ! Unluckily the wine-cask and the brandy-bottle were stowed in our room, and the applications to them were so frequent that we resolved to barricade the door ; failing to force the door, they attacked the window ; but this small pigeon-hole being nuicli too narrow to admit the carcase of an African boor, they had recourse to the expedient of thrusting through a thin Q 22() MIMTAIIV MISSION TO THE [C.'llAl'. 111. llotteiifot ^irl : but from flic pcciiliiir shape of tin,. females ol'lliis trihe llie lower part refused to liillow where the head had j)assed, and she stuck fast in the wiiidow; the !J,irl, however, after a great deal of s([uee/iiif;' and pushiuti', eileeted the ])ur])ose, and m-o. cured fur the tunudfuous hoors a supply of tlnir favourite; liepiors. To ])revent a return we harrcd in the window. After most vociferous inij)recatlons and thundering assaults, sometimes at the door and tlicii at the window, they thought fit about midnight to have ihe house, in search, prohahly, of another jovial luij^li. hour at the distance, ])erha))s, often or twelve '"ijf.s. The farther we advanced the more nuinc were the accounts we received of the atrocious cuimiict of the boors towards the KaiRrs and Hottentots, of wliidi they made no secret. On reaching the Lange KloufJ or Long Valley, this j)art of the country, with its orchards, vineyards, gardens, and comfortable iiiriu- houses occurring at the regulated distance of llircc miles, displayed a cheerful and delightfully j)lcasaiit aspect. Coming opj)osite to rietteiiberg Bay, I cro.s^id the luo'intains and assembled the wood-cutters in tlif vicinity of the bay, the Admiral having wished me tu get some information of the (quantity and price at wliitli tiuiber could be sent to the Cape. Industrious ii-i the inhabitants might be, the felling of large trees and the dragging of them out of deep glens required -o much labour, which they alone were obliged to pii- form, not having the means of providing slaves, it appeared to me that, in the present state of the colony, no de])endence of a supply from this quarter could be entertained. The boors' horses are never shod ; but on retuniinit liTii , Si(T. VII.J KASTKUN PAKT OF TIIK COLONY. 227 on rctuniiiii;' to Lniigo Kloof I t'omid that tlio shoes of nil our horses had cither been removed or new ones put on ; and what was my astonishment on learning", that hofh tiie one mid tiie other had been the work of a youn^^ man, horn (kaf and dumh, who had never seen a horseshoe he- fore, and that both were executed with as much care and neatness as if he had been brought up to the trade of a farrier! — nay more, this sagacious yo'-.ng man, 1 was told, supported by his ingenuity and industry a worthless, drunken lather, and a number of brothers and sisters. On arriving at the Camtoos lliver an ex|)ress from the General summoned us to Algoa liay. This most beautiful ])art of the country, less than half a century before this time, had been entirely in possession of the KafHrs and the Hottentots, amounting to many thou- sand families, the latter subsisting chiefly on wild I animals, roots, bulbs, and berries of varioiis j)lants ; the I Kaffirs on their cattle, the milk of which constitutes their principal food. On our road to Algoa Bay we were met by a party of Hottentots, so disguised and dressed in such a whim- I sical manner, that I asked one who appeared to be the I leader if they had not been committing depredations I on the boors : they readily admitted it, for, among other good (jualities which a Hottentot possesses, is that of a I rif,nd adherence to truth — he has no deceit — if accused of I a crime of which he has been guilty, with native simpli- Icity he will state the fact just as it happened. In the t whole course of my travels, and in the midst of the l|iiuiuerous attendants by whom I was constantly sur- Prouiided, I can with safety declare that I never was probbed or deceived by any of them. Q 2 .."» -" ^ ^ ,11 228 MILITARY MISSION TO THE [Chap, III. 'i^ The leader of the present party, Klaas Steuriiian, humbly entreating to be heard, began a long oration containing a history of their calamities and sufferings from the boors; the injustice that deprived them of their country, forced their children to become slaves, and robbed them of their cattle; that they there- fore resolved to make application for redress before the English tr.ops should leave the country; that the boors, in order to prevent it, confined some to the house, threatened to shoot others if they attempted to escape, and to punish their wives and children in then* absence. lie then produced a young Hottentot whose thigh was pierced through by a large musket-ball, shot by his employer because he was attempting to leave his service. "This act," said the spokesman, "and many similar ones, resolved us to collect a sufficient force to deprive the boors of their arms, and to take their clothing in lieu of the wages due for our services, but we have stripped none, nor injured the persons of any, though" (added he, shaking his head) "we have yet a great deal of our blood to avenge." The farther we advanced the more seriously alarm- ing was the state of the country ; and it was clear that the connection between the boors and the Hottentots, kept up by violence and oppression on one side, and by want of energy and patient suffering on the other, was on the point of being completely dissolved. In- deed, from the barbarous and inhuman treatment of I the boors, of which we ourselves had witnessed so many | instances too revolting to be described, it would have been an act of the greatest inhumanity to have at- tempted to force these poor creatures back again upon | their merciless masters ; yet a serious difficulty arose Skct. VII.] EASTERN PART OF THE COLONY. 229 how to dispose of them. There was no difficulty with regard to the able-bodied men; having received so favourable an account of the condition of their country- men in the Hottentot corps, named the Cape Regiment, they were all ready to join it ; but what was to be done with the old people, the women, and the children? Klaat Steurman had an answer ready : " Restore to us our country, of which we have been robbed by the Dutch, and we require nothing more." I endeavoured to convince him that land alone, without other means, would not suffice for subsistence. His reply was, " We lived happily before these Dutch plunderers molested us, and we should do so again. Has not the Gront Baas (the Great Master) given plenty of grass-roots, and berries, and locusts for our use?" This clever Hottentot, I could not but admit, had the best of the argument, and my endeavour was, in which I suc- ceeded, to prevail on the party to deliver up their arms, and in the meantime to follow the troops, until some arrangement could be made for their future welfare. Proceeding on our march along the banks of the Sunday River, we fell in with a vast number of Kaffirs, with their cattle, belonging, they told us, to a powerful chief named Congo, who was at the head of the emi- grant chiefs that had fled from Kaffir-land on account of some enmity subsisting between them and their King Gaika, with whom and them I had in vain attempted two years before to bring about a reconciliation. I sent a messenger to Congo to request he would give us a meeting ; his answer was, he did not care to come alone, but must be accompanied by a certain number of his people ; to this it was replied, any number not 230 MILITARY MISSION TO THE [Chap. 111. exceeding thirty. With that number he made his appearance, each man being armed with an assagai. lie conducted himself with great firmness, said the ground on which he then stood was his own by inherit- ance ; that, however, being desirous of remaining in friendship with the English, he would remove to the eastward in three days, but that it was impossible for him to cross the Great Fisih River, as " there was blood between Gaika and himself," and that Gaika was then much too strong for him. The decided tone in which he spoke, at the head of his small party, when surrounded by British troops, his prepossessing coun- tenance, and tall muscular figure, could not fail to excite a strong interest in his favour. Though extremely good- humoured, benevolent, and hospitable, the Kaffirs are neither so pliant nor so passive as the Hottentots. The consent of Congo to withdraw from the banks of the Sun- day lliver was not given without apparent reluctance. The forces being collected, and on their return to Algoa Bay, and finding that Congo had made no pre- parations for departing, it M^as thought advisable to renew a message to him, but the messenger returned without beinn- able to see the chief. Whatever reluct- ance he had shown to quit the colony, it never entered into our calculation that he would be rash enough to commence an attack upon a large body of regular troops. Such, however, was the step he chose to take; instigated, as we afterwards found, by the rebel boors. Kaffirs now began to appear on all the heights, with a view to attack us r numbers were observed close upon us, lurking in the bushes ; our force being in a narrow defile, nearly choked with brushwood and surrounded Skct. VII.] EASTERN PAIJT OF THE COLONY. 281 bv Kaffirs, two or three rounds of'trrane were tliseliarged Irniii two iicld-picec'S in order to clear the thickets. The persecuted Hottentots were everyvvhce flying irom the cruel treatment of their niast'Ts; to get them down to the plains near Algoa Bay was deemed most advisable : and, theret()re, accompanied by a few dra- goons, I took charge of the Hottentots and tlicir cattle oil our journey to the southward ; whilst the General marched back into the Zuure Veldt, to pick up a party of infantry employed in cutting off the retreat of the boors into the Kaffir country. I proceeded to a plain contiguous to Algoa Bay, where, to my great astonishment, I found the vhole of the boors and their families assembled, who had been plun- dered by the Hottentots, with their waggons and cattle, and the remains of their property, awaiting our arrival, in order, they said, to claim ju'otection against the heathen. To be thus placed betweeu two parties — each claiming protection, and each vowing vengeance — was by no means a pleasant situation. My whole strength was about a dozen dragoons ; the Hottentots, great and small, were upwards of five hundred ; and the boors and their families about one hundred and fifty. Fortunately, the ' liattlesnake ' was still in the bay, and I obtained from Captain Gooch twenty armed seamen ; and caused a swivel gun to be mounted on a post immediately be- tween the boors and the Hottentots. Afier some days of anxiety, I received a letter from General Vandeleur, informing me that the Kaffirs, in- stiirated by the rebel boors, had been led to the bold measure of attacking his camp near Bosjesman's River, for the sake, he supposed, of obtaining a supply of gun- powder; that the latter had kept up a pretty brisk fire * * / 1. , 232 MILITARY MISSION TO THE [Chap. III. from behind the bushes; but that the Kaffirs, finding their assagais useless against musketry, rushed forward upon the open plain with the iron part only of the assa- gai in their hands ; that, however, after several rounds of grape and volleys from the infantry, by which num- bers were killed, they retreated into the thickets. The same letter gave the account of an unfortunate aifair that happened to Lieut. Chumney and twentv men of the 81st Regiment. Returning from the sea- coast to the camp at Bosjesman's lliver, his party were surprised among the thickets by a large body of Kaffirs, who attacked them hand to hand with the iron part of their assagais, the M'ooden shaft having been previously broken off. This young officer bravely defended him- self till sixteen of his party were killed ; the remaining four got into the waggon, and arrived safe at the camp. Poor Chumney was on horseback, with three assatiais sticking in his body ; he made a sign for the waggon to set off, and, finding himself mortally wounded, he turned his horse in a contrary direction to that of the Nvaggon, and was pursued by the whole body of Kaffirs ; afford- ing thus an opportunity for the small remains of his party to save their lives by flight. However desirable it might have been to apprehend and punish the rebel boors, who had shown themselves a disgrace to humanity, yet it was not deemed ad- visable, in order to obtain that point, to wage, in impenetral)le thickets, an unequal war Avith savages, whose destruction would have added little lustre to the British arms, and been advantageous only to the rebels who had urged them on. General Vande- leur, therefore, very prudently withdrew his forces, and marched them down to Algoa Bay, where part were Jkct. vim.] eastern PART OF THE COLONY. 233 embarked on board the ' Rattlesnake,' and the rest were to proceed to the Cape by easy laarches. Subsequent events, however, delayed their departiu'e, and rendered the presence of troo])s necessary at Algoa Bay until the evacuation of the colony. Having delivered over the remaining part of the Hottentots, on the return of the General, and finding I could be of no further use, I set out for the Cape ; where, after a journey of sixteen days, performed with two horses, I arrived on the 8th of June, 1799. Section VIII. Tico new Governors ,• one Datcli and one English — The Cape surrendered to the former and evacuated. My exploring journeys thus finished by this less agree- able military mission, and having given satisfaction to my superiors, I resolved now to relinquish the good- natured plan of volunteering for further active service, and to sit down quietly to audit with diligence and re- gularity the public accounts, which was an important part of my duty ; to nuirry a wife, and, that being accomplished, to look out for a small comfortable house near the town, and to become a country gentleman of South Africa. Accordingly, at Stellenbosch, by the Hector Mr. Borchards, related to the family, in August, 1/99, I was united in marriage to Miss Anna Maria Triiter, the only daughter of Peter-John Triiter, Esq., Member of the Court of Justice, and the cousin of Sir John Triiter, the Chief Justice of that Court ; a lady whose acquaintance I had made the first week of our ..■» -• : •■ .L •• ♦ I ;\H,l;i :'.••' I 234 SCATJCITY AT TUK CAPE. [CirAP. III. arrival at the Cape. In the early part of 1800 I yw- chased a house, v»'itli a j);ul(lock, garden, and vinevartl attached, named the Liesbeck Cottage, from the rivtr of that name which flowed past the foot of tlic grounds. My house looked on the west side of the Table ]\Iouii- tain, which sloped down almost close to the gate, and presented a picturesque mass of varied rock and native plants, among which tlie ericas and proteas were con- spicuous ; and of the latter the argcntca, or silver-tree, prevailed. My family consisted of myself, my Mile and child, an old nurse, and four other servants. My stud was limited to two stout carriage horses for drawing a curricle, and two saddle horses: the one a most lively, })layful, and intelligent creature as I ever met with. If I mentioned but his name, Trini was with me in an instant: if he saw me, it Avas not easy to prevent his bounding up to me; and how was this broudit about ? Bv kind treatment, by showins him and convincing him that he was my pet, by givini^' him part of my food, bread, biscuit, grapes, and other fruit; and in this way I have ahvays found that the most surly and wild animals may be tamed. ]\Iy other horse was a grey S])anish pony, a very lively creature, but nov so docile as Trim. I had an Indian groom and a helper. .Speaking of food : a scarcity of bread-corn was at this time felt, owing partly to a bad harvest, partly to the supplies necessary to be sent to the eastern frontier for the use of the troops, the number of Avhicli the rebellions boor.s, united with the Kaflirs, made it necessary to increase. General Dundas, in this emergency, consulted the Burgher Senate as to what, in their ()})inion, Mas best to be done to prevent a famine among the large popula- '■'''t- Sect. VIII.] TWO NEW GOVERNORS. tion of Cape Tom'ii, a. great portion of it being slaves. The Senate advised importation of corn and rice, and without delay. The General then called a meeting of all the English who held official sitnations ; the result was, that with the assistance of the Commissary-General, —who was responsible for the food of the troops, and had correspondence in various quarters, and also the command of money and credit — Mr. Pringle, the Com- missary, most readily undertook to write for cargoes of wheat, maize, and rice from India and the Brazils. A corn committee was formed, of which the General was president, and I was named secretary ; grain of different kinds speedily began to come in, regulations were made for its distribution at fixed prices a little higher than its cost: and in the third year, when all had come right again, I })resented my account, leaving a small balance of profit on hand, after discharging all debts, advances, and expenses. General Dundas had left England, under an engage- ment to a lady, a daughter of General Gumming, for the purpose of being united to her in marriage, as soon as he saw himself likely to be fixed here. He was now Governor and Commander-in-chief, and in possession of the Government house fitted up for the reception of his lady ; who arrived safe and proved a most agreeable addition to the society of the Cape. But how uncertaiii is the tenure, generally, of a public appointment — more especially so, on the change of the patron ! In the pre- |seiit instance, the Bight Hon. Hiley Addington had become Prime Minister in the room of the Right Hon. \ William Pitt ; and Lord Hobart, Secretary of State jfoi" the Colonial and War Department; and a new [Governor of the Cape one day suddenly made his ap- 236 TWO NEW GOVERNORS. [Chap. III. pearance, in the person of Sir George Young. I confess I had my misgivings ; yet, all things considered, I was a good deal surprised, and immediately waited on the General. He said, good-humouredly, "They have left me at least a plank to iioat upon ; our new chief having brought with him a commission appointing me Com- mander-in-chief and Lieutenant-Governor of the Cape of Good Hope ; and a few lines, from one you know, tells me to reniaai quiet and wait events." Sir George Young brought out with him a stupid Irish Secretary and his wife, and a pert young officer as aide-de-camp, and they all lived together in the Govern- ment-house. He took an early opportunity — or liis Secretary and his wife for him — to give out that the friends of Lord Macartney would meet with no coun- tenance from him ; and it was whispered, that as all the civil appointments had been filled up, some vacancies might be anticipated. The friends, however, of Lord Macartney looked upon the manoeuvres of the whole party with the utmost contempt. Among other ridiculous freaks, which the weak old Governor took into his head, was that of raising a volunteer corps among the English part of the inhabitants, and just at the time that Mr. Addington was negotiating with Buonaparte the treaty of peace, or that more generally known as the Truce,, of Amiens. The civil officers c»f the Cape Government were required to hold commissions in the corps of volunteers, and it was notified to me that I was appointed captain of artillery. I simply declined to take up my commission, as did most of the others; except three or four, who were in the habit of playing fantastic tricks, and who looked for the favourable countenance of Sir George Young. Sect. Vlll.] TWO NEW GOVERNORS. 237 Sir George brought out with him a Mr. Ducket, a noted agriculturist in England, who was to astonish the Cape farmers by teaching them how to raise two bushels of corn where one only grew before. ITe had ; n estate given to work upon, and Govermncnt slaves to assist. I think he put in seed, and reaped three crops, the worst and most scanty that had ever been produced; and, of course, was laughed at by the Cape boors ; and he left the colony a disappointed man. Sir George Young, concluding that all Lord Macart- ney's proteg«''s were blockheads, had brought out with him a German gentleman — one Count Lichtenstein, who was todevelope all the mineral treasures of the colony: the silver, copper, lead ores, and coal to smelt them — all of which he knew m ere to be found, whether from observation or instinct I kno:v not. But this gentlc- nlan, previous to his setting out, called on me to ask for information, and I gave him what little I had gathered on the subject. I also gave him some little trifling specimens I had picked up; and, among other matters, a piece of meteoric iron I had cut oft' from a mass found near Algoa Bay, after very great labour, with a hammer and chisel. This piece of iron was the cause, some time afterwards, of bringing the Count into rather an awkward predicament. One Sunday evening, ou entering the room of Sir Joseph Banks, I observed a number of persons crowding round the table, and handing from one to auother a piece of iron — Sir Joseph explaining that it was found and cut by Count Lichten- stein from a large aerolite he had discovered in Southern Africa. Taking it into my hand, and examining it closely, I said, " Ah ! this is an old friend of mine, Sir Joseph: there must be some mistake. This piece ■I • i <i ..•* : ' I 238 TWO NEW GOVERNOKS. [CUAP. Ill, I iir of iron was cut off by nic from a large mass found near Algoa Bay, after several hours of hard labour Avitli a hammer and chisel, and was given by me to Count Lichtenstein." On this, a gentleman stepped out of the crowd, and said, " I beg your })ardon, Mr. Barrow: what you say is quite trm;, and I beg your pardon—" But I stopped him, and hoped he would not say another word about it ; had I known of his being present, I should have been silent to all except to himself. Great discontent, among both English and Dutch inhabitants, prevailed against Sir George Young's ad- ministration ; and many complaints are supposed to have reached England. Be that as it may, he vas suddenly and unexpectedly recalled. One day, in coming from the Corn Committee, I met General Dundas, who appeared a good deal fluttered, lie hur- ried me into a house, said he was looking for me, and that he had just received a most important dispatch from home, about which he was anxious to consult hu, " The King has been pleased to appoint me Governor of the Cape of Good Hope, and Commander-in-Chief of the forces, and I have got my commissions. What am I to do? — What communication shall I make to the present Governor ? " I told him that, in my humble opinion, he had but one line to take — to cause a proclamation to be issued forthwith, announcing the fact, and that "it is your intention to be sworn in, and to assume the government, to-morrow ; and instantly to let Sir George Young know your intention, lie, no doubt, has corresponding orders to resign the govern- ment into your hands ; but he may take his own time, if you do not act forthwith. It will be proper you also immediately communicate with Mr. Secretary Barnard." s,;,r.Vlll.T CAPE SURKENDEKED TO THE DUTCH. 239 He (lid so ;ict nceordiii^ly ; and tlie short-lived admi- nistration ceased, with very general satisfaction. This second government of General Dundas was soon discovered as likely to be of short duration. The treaty of peace, signed at Amiens on the 25th March, 1SU2, having, among other cessions, decreed " that the port of the Ca])e of Good Hope shall remain to the Batavian rc])ul)lic in full sovereigr.ty," was some time ire it was oilicially received here ; and thus gave us suf- liciuiit notice to he pre])ared for our departure. Accord- iiijily, in the month of March, 18U3, a large force made its appearance to take possession of the ceded colony. The IJritish ^ 'oops were removed into the Castle, till the whole of them could be embarked for England on hoard the shi})s of war and transports at anchor in Tahle JJay, and the Dutch troops were sinudtancously (jiiartered in the large 1,'arrack close to the town. General Jansen, the ne\v Governor, and the civil Coiiimissioncr I)e i\Iist, were received in the most Irieiully manner by (ieneral Dundas, who immediately risiirued to them the (Governor's house within the Castle, retaining the Garden-house till all was ready for eiiiharkation. As a large (piantity of stores, of various [descriptions, were agreed upon to be taken by the Diitdi at a fair valuation, commissioners were named, on both sides, to settle this point, and the General asked nie to be one of them. This being concluded, and the whole of the troops embarked, a day was liiaiiicd for all being on lioard, when a frigate arrived in [the bay. The Captain landed, sent off the boat back [to the ship, looked very mysterious, answered no [questions, but desired to be brought immediately to General Dundas to deliver his dispatches. It was in 240 COUNTEU-OHDEHS. L^llAl'. III. the afternoon, when the General and the Achniral wuio in consultation, shortly afler which it was ohscrvcd tlwt Sir Roger Curtis hastened on board. I was snniinoned iiy tlu; General to the (lankn. house, where I foiuid Mr. Secretary IJarnard niid the Caj)tain of the frigate. The (ienen 1 told nie that wliat he had received was an order on no account to give un possession of the Cape till further orders. "And iikw," says he, " what are we to do ? The Dutch ha\ o live thousand men, widi all their accoutrements, in (nir barrack, and wc have about the same nund)er end)arki(l on board the slii])s in the bay. The Admiral is just gone on board, and he says that he can very (jiiiitlv get the men into the boats on the ofl-side of the ships, and row them rapidly to be landed in the Castle-yiud, Once there," observed the General, " we should be in a state to negotiate. Nothing more can be done in this critical conjuncture than to wait patiently a tiirthtr dispatch from home." I told the General I had received and accepted an invitation to an early dinner in the Castle, from General Jansen, with whom I had contracted an intimacy from his first landing, he having brought ine a letter of intro- duction from Baron Fa gel. " Shall I keep my engage- ment?" "By all means," said the General; "I shall see him myself the moment the troops are landed." 'So suspicion of the counter-orders, it was evident, had beiii received by the new Governor. All went off pleasantly and cheerfully at the Castle ; and the two young ladies daughteis of Jansen and De Mist, were lively and agrtt- able, when, about the middle of dinner, a bustle wa heard in the court-yard, the grounding of arms, ive., on which the General, starting up, called out, " Mr. Barrow, .1..%'.^ SKfv. vm. KVACUATION OK THF, CAPi:. 241 wliiit is the meaning of all this?" To free myself from tilt' tlilenima of an answer, I got up and said, " I will go out and see." At that moment General Diindas was ill the Castle, and had sent to General Jansen to ask nil interview. The Admiral was with him ; and these two, with General Jansen and Mr. Commissioner De Mist, came very cordially to the following agree- iiR'iit : — Tiiat in order to prevent any collision hetween the Dutch troops and the English, the former should re- move some three or four miles into cantonments on the pleasant plains of Wynherg, and the English be held ill readiness to end)ark immediately on counter-orders hiiiig received from home, for which purpose a part were to be kept in the Castle, and the rest in the barracks — an avraugenient that was at once agreed to, eand carried into effect. It was certainly a painful suspense ; and some (if the Radical ])arty, in the town, did their best to cause a rujjture, hoping they would meet encouragement from Mr. De Mist, who was supposed to be a friend of Tallevrand ; but they were deceived in him: he was an alilo, agreeable, and, 1 believe, an honest man. It was near the end of the year before counter-orders were received from home, to deliver up the Cape to the officers of the Batavian republic. The British troops were iiiunediately put in preparation for embarking, and the Admiral was busily engaged in allotting ships and berths for the civilians, lie placed me in a ship of war crowded to excess, and in a dark hole on the lower deck, which I told him at once 1 should not accept. " But you must," he said : " my orders are to provide for every one, and you must take what I can give you." " I doubt your authority, Sir lloger ; and shall appeal R It , mm! 242 ARRIVAL AT PORTSMOUTH. [Chap. 111. to Lieut.-General Francis Dundas, who alone is my master here." I saw the General : he immediately said, " I can suit you exactly ; I have an Ordnance transport of 350 tons, which I \vill allot for your exclusive use ; and, as yoa will find abundance of room, you may, if you please, name any one you will to go along with you." I named my friend and companion Mr. Maxwell; a young man, Mr. Pickering, the storekeeper of Ord- nance ; his lady and child ; and a son of Mr. Ducket, the agriculturist. We had comfortable apartments and abundance of room for myself, my wife, our little girl of three years old, and a servant maid. The rest were all well accommodated. Our transport kept good way with the ships of war on the whole voyage; and we arrived with them, after a moderate passage, at Ports- mouth in the month of .Tune, 1803. Note, applicable to the Year 184G. It is now nearly fifty years since the occurrences re- lated in the preceding narrative took place; and it would appear that in the course of that long interval the affairs of the interior districts of the Cape of Good Hope, as regards the Boors, the Kaffirs, and the Hotf<'ii- tots, instead of improving, have retrograded from bad to worse ; and that our troops, and the respectable part of the colonists of the southernmost districts, have been involved, and had greatly suffered in their persons and property. The poor Hottentot, however, can hardly be included ; this docile creature may be moulded into t f'" Sect. VIII.] NOTE ON THE KAFFIR WAR IN 1846. 243 any shape that his superiors think fit, and have the humanity to give him. The Hottentot corps, esta- blished hy General Sir James Craig, has supported the best of characters, under every succeeding officer, for "00(1 conduct, discipline, and fidelity ; and both officers and men are spoken of with similar commendations as those bestowed on the Sepoys of India. But the Kaffirs are a race of men very differently constituted in body and mind. Bold, brave, and reso- hite, they are not easily persuaded or forced to yield to Avhat they deem an invasion of their rights ; this they consider to be their case, on the part of the neighbour- ing- boors, who, they say, were the //r.s^ to transgress the boundary line, for the sake of plundering them of their cattle; that, not satisfied with appropriating the rich country, they have crossed the boundary agreed upon by the colonists and themselves ; some driving off their cattle to their own country, and others feeding theirs in the Kaffir country ; and that this practice had in- creased to such an extent that they were compelled to retaliate. It is not improbable that the Kaffirs are right ; for it is but a very short period since the Dutch first set foot on the soil of Southern Africa, and no record exists of the original establishment of the Kaffir nation ill the place, wiicrc the Dutch found them, and where they then uiujuestionably had long been settled. But the question now is, what is to be done to put an Olid to the murderous warfare that has been and is goiiifi' on, by the Kaffirs on the one side, and the British fi'oops and tl." colonists on the other. The Kaffirs have lieeoiTie a most ibrinidable enemy; they are a fine race of moil — powerful and vigorous in body, resolute and 1^ 2 244 NOTE ON THE KAFFIR WAR IN 1840. [Chap. III. undaunted in mind, and fearless in danger. They are well practised in the advantage which the nuniorous thickets of the country give them, and from uliich they are enabled to pick off hundreds of boors with their muskets, and with those very arms that the latter themselves have supplied ; nor do our own troops escape this concealed enemy. But the courage and the skill of the Kaffir are not confined to skirmishing under cover of a thicket. When occasion offers he will rush from his cover, break off the iron blade of his liasmjiai from its shaft, and fight with it hand to hand, singly or in a party ; in this way he will attack a whole body of troops ; and such an enemy is not to be despised. It might be supposed that some means had been hit upon, ere this, to put an end to this destructive war- fare. A plan was adopted by one of the governors (Sir Benjamin D'Urban, I think), to establish the belt of land, between the Great Fish Biver and the Kcis- kamma, as neutral territory, with a small fort about the centre and one at each extremity: the Kaffirs agreeing to keep themselves and their cattle to the north of the Keiskamma, and the boors themselves and their cattle to the southward of the Great Fish Biver. This sensible, and it was said successful, expe- riment, by some change in the Colonial Office or in the governor, was then given up, and the old system of nmtnal plunder recommenced. There is just now a Governor, in the midst of the contending parties, striving, and not unsuccessfully, to restore peace, in whom the suffering inhabitants have great confidence. The following extract is from the clergyman of Bathurst : — Sect. VIII.] NOTE ON THE KAFFIR WAR IN 1846. 245 " I consider it to be a subject of sincere congratu- lation at the present moment — the most eventful, appa- rently, that ever occurred in the history of South Africa —that we have at the head of affairs a man like Sir Peregrine Maitland, respecting whom perhaps there are few who will not unite in the opinion, that the in- terests of justice and humanity could not have been ciitrusted to a more upright and watchful guardian. What renders this of such practical importance, at this present time, is the prevalence of an opinion among the most intelligent classes in the colony, that no safeguard can be found that will be so effectual for the mainte- nance of peace, as that of placing such a number of European settlers in Kaffirland as may be able to exert a controlling, governing influence in the heart of the country. Every other course of proceeding hitherto tried has failed. '^Bathurst,Jidi/ 20, 1846." At the moment I was copying the above extract, I read in the Gazette, that this excellent officer, while in the midst of the liostile Kaffirs and labouring for the establishment of peace, was superseded by " The Kiglit Hon. Sir Henry Pottinger, Bart., K.G.C.B., Governor and Commander-in-Chief, to be Her Majesty's High Commissioner for the settling and adjusting of the atiairs of the territories, &c. of the Cape of Good Hope," together with a splendid staff*. What may be the issue of this contre-teins, if General Maitland should have arranged matters before Sir Henry Pottinger's arrival in Kaffirland, I pretend not to augur ; but I will venture to observe, that his suc- cess in China is no voucher for success in Kaffirland. ^\'vi' ■HIIHI 246 NOTE ON THE KAFFIR WAR IN I84n. [Ciiai>. III. I" 1 1^" In the former, the gates of negotiation were widely thrown open by victory — one of the best admirals and one of the best generals paved his way to the subdued powers, and by means of able interpreters he could ])ropose and receive terms. If General Maitland has been able to accomplish in KafRrland what Sir William Parker and Sir Hugh Gough did in China, Sir Henry may not have a very difficult task ; but he nmst pro- bably be content with a Hottentot interpreter, as I was served before King Gaika and the emigrant Kaffir chiefs. But, supposing the peace to be made, what ought the terms to be, in order to preserve it ? The first step, in my opinion, should be to create a Christian population, spread over an extent of country capable of supporting many hundred families, possessing, as it does, an exu- berant soil, and as healthy a climate as any in the world. I speak practically, having traversed the worst as well as the best parts of it, summer and winter, sleeping at nights without a roof over my head, except the canvas covering over my waggon ; and having never suffered a day's sickness. How many thousand families from the United Kingdom would rejoice to be set down in such a country and in such a climate, if facilities were afforded to them — and what a relief to many parts of the kingdom would their emigration be ! But some- thing is first to be done ; the Zuure-veld and a great way beyond it must be marked out into parochial dis- tricts, and surveyors appointed to settle the limits, The boors must not be allowed unbounded liberty to ramble over what extent of country they please ; and they should be compelled to till the ground to a certnin extent. I should propose to extend the colony a Ion? Sect. VIII.] NOTE ON THE KAFFIR WAR IN 184G. 247 the eastern coast as far as Natal, where a part of the refractory Graaff Reynet boors thought fit first to migrate, to free themselves from all control, and ther to quarrel among themselves, and separate ; and now we have the Natal boors and the refugees joined to some mongrel natives farther to the westward ; an union not likely to last long. But it may be asked, what do you propose to do with the Kalfirs — they are too important a people to be overlooked ? They certainly are ; for I do not hesitate to say that a finer race of men does not exist, and they require nothing but kind treatment and instruc- tion, with a fair portion of their own land, to make them a respectable and happy people. I should say, therefore, give them undisturbed possession of the western part of the country, commencing from their old boundary along the Keiskamma Hiver and as far to the west and the north as they may find it expedient to go — perhaps till they fall in with the emigrant boors from Natal ; reserving to ourselves a western frontier at a prescribed distance from the sea coast, of which the Kaffirs make no use : and while the latter are completing their settlement, let them have from our colonists every possible friendly assistance that can be aUbrded to them. But in the first place mark out the limits of what is to constitute our — that is the north-west — colony; divide it into districts or parishes ; and assign limits to the portions of the several colonists ; ample let them be, hut put an end to the rambling and pastoral system ; and, to make amends, encourage cultivation of the land, and at the same time the cultivation of tlitir luindn. • ■ <' . "• . - . „ i' * ' i •.-;■ 1 " h 248 NOTE ON THE KAFFIR WAR IN 184fi. [Chap. U I. But I am aware that, in thus establishing or extend- ing- a colony in a part of the Cape of Good Hope terri- tory where none has yet existed, I am forgetting that the Colonial Department has an inveterate dislike to the 7i(U)ie of colony. I had practical experience of this when in the Admiralty: I had made a minute forcer- tain regulations to be observed at the colony of Port Essington, on the north coast of Australia. A gentle- man from the Colonial Office called on me to request that I would substitute some other word for coloiuj, which had become obnoxious in certain quarters. I said, " cfftahUsliment or naval station will do quite as well." The Cape of Good Hope is already a colony ; and it is proposed only to extend its limits. By stationing a small ship of war at Point Natal, one at Algoa Bay, and another at Plettenberg Bay, or one moving about might do for all, to keep up comnmnication, the in- terior Avould require oidy district officers. Something must be done, and that promptly and vigorously ; and I see no difficulty with regard to our own people ; nor indeed, if proper care be taken to secure to the Kaffirs the quiet possession of a sufficient territory — which they have an unquestionable right to expect — do I see any in that quarter ; and the Hottentots are sufficiently tractable and peaceable to be made generally useful to themselves and the colonists. Taking it for granted, that there is but one opinion among sensible and right-minded men with regard to the advantages of emigration, more particularly where thousands are periodically liable to perish from want of food, I know of no country that aftbrds so large a siu'face, with so exuberant a soil and so healthy and agreeable a climate, as that portion of the Cape of Good ! J If" Sect. VIII.] NOTE ON THE KAFFIll WAR IN I84C. 249 Hope territory now proposed to be added in extension of the present colony. The emigrants would have the great and immediate advantage of the assistance of the Hottentots — a quiet, intelligent, and industrious race, too happy at the idea of serving English families, from ;vhoni they know they will receive kind treatment. The whole of the eastern coast of South Africa might be made a fruitful and flourit^hing country, as far up as Do la Goa Bay, where the miserable country of the more miserable Portuguese nation commences ; and which, at the conclusion of the war, I used all the efforts in my power with the then Colonial Secretary to make the northern limit of our possessions, and to pension off' the old serjeant who held it as governor. '■ ! * > 'S-:i.:.| ! '■ . * I • ( 250 ) THE ADMIRALTY. <ii^ It occurred to nie, that the introduction of a few brief notices of the several administrations of the affairs of the Navy, under which, amounting to thirtep:, AVliia and Tory, I have served for forty years, and in all of which I must necessarily have borne a part, might not be considered as travelling out of the record of a Bio- graphical Life. It is not, however, intended, by so doing, to give anything like a history of the naval transactions of that period, or of the many brilliant exploits that occurred in the course of a great portion of that time, each of such exploits and transactions furnishing, it may be said, a history of itself. I tlioiiirlit it might be interesting to bring together the names of the chief actors in the Principal Department of the Navy, the succession, duration, changes, and the cause thereof, where apparent; and to notice any alteration in the system of management that may have taken place ; and, as next in weight and importance, I have added at the head of each article, after that of the First Lord, the name of the First Naval Lord, and of the First Secretary, who is required to have a seat in the House of Commons. I have acted as Second Secre- tary to all of them, with the exception of Lord Grey's short administration. ( ^51 ) THE ADMIRALTY. Section I. Henry Viscount Melville. May 15, 1804— June 12, 1805. Captain James Gambieb. . .First Naval Lord. William Marsden First Secretary. Ox our arrival in London, General Frank Dundas, in laving before Lord Hobart, Secretary of State for War and Colonies, the public accounts and the proceed- ings on delivering up the Cape of Good Hope to the Dutch authorities, represented to his Lordship the several extra duties I had voluntarily discharged, with great inconvenience and expense to myself, and his inability to make me suitable amends, though the ser- vices were public and important; he hoped, therefore, I should be considered, for my six or seven years' services, entitled to some retiring allowance. Lord Hobart could only express his regret that he found his hands tied on that subject, he thought unjustly, but the precedent of refusal had been established by his predecessors, and had become the general custom (methought, with Hamlet, it is a custom more ho- noured in the breach than in the observance) : all he could say was, that he should be most happy to make Mr. Barrow an offer of the first vacancy abroad that might suit him. This might pass for something civil ; ■ i,»i .', -i. 252 HENRY VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sbct. I. III but I was more disj)osed to take my cliance at home, I considered, therefore, that nothing further was to be expected from that (quarter; but General Dundas did not rebix his exertions in mv behalf In point of fact, Lord Mae;irtney had turned mc over to the General, as beinp,' one on whom he might rely for assistance in any difficulty that should occur; for that I knew tbc country and the people better than any other of our countrymen ; and I may truly say that the General did not spare me. lie now spoke strongly to his uncle Henry Dundas, who, though equally out of offiee with bis friend Mr. Pitt, was not Avithout influence. As already mentioned, Mr. Dundas, on reading my account of Southern Africa, had, in my absence, urged its jmbli- cation ; he now expressed to the General a wish to see me — "If you will bring him to-morrow, Mr. Pitt dines with me." I went, and nothing could be more flatter- ing than my reception; be spoke of the satisfaction which my book had afforded him, that it strongly corro- borated the opinion he had given in Parliament, that the Cape of Good Hope ought never to be parted ^vith; but he suggested that I had lefl rather short one portion of the subject, which he had always considered of vast importance to this country : and that was, its geogra- phical position with reference to India, as a halt'-\vay house between our settlements there and England; as a place of refreshment for our shipping and troops; its capabilities for supplying all kinds of produce ; its ports and harbours along a great extent of sea-coast fa- vourable to commercial enterprise. "These," he said, "with its capacities in general, which you know better than I do, are the points to which I allude, and whicli will, I think and hope, amply supply materials for a If',"- >[:rT. I.) THE ADMIKALTY. 253 second volume." I took the hint, and said, " I will 'look lip what iiiforiiiatioii I possess, and endeavour to meet your views;" whieli I iorthwith set about, and speedily produced a second volume, detailing the po- litical, geographical, and commercial advantages of this Soiitlieni part of Africa, which bad the effect of pro- ducing a second edition of the first volume. Nothing could be more delightful than this little snug party. The names of Pitt and Diindas were "familiar as household words," and the two had been as inseparable as their friendship was durable. They were now at Wimbledon for a season, and being re- lieved from the cares and toils of office, were as playful as two school-boys. Lady Jane Dundas and another lady, with two gentlemen of the family, the General, and myself, made up the party. Mr. Dundas asked me if I knew that the new Government had oflfered to Lord Macartney the office of President of the Council, and diat he had declined it, assigning to his friends as a reason that he was sure Mr. Addington's govern- ment could not stand. It soon appeared that Lord Macartney was right. It had continued about three years, and in the spring of 1804 Mr. Pitt resumed the office of First Lord of the Treasury, and Mr. Dundas (now Viscount Melville) was appointed First Lord of the Admiralty, his patent bearing date 15th May, 1804. A short time after this, when dining with Lord Macartney, he was called away by Lord Melville in the midst of the dinner, but returned speedily, without taking any notice of the visit he had received at that unusual hour; and as ladies are said to be curious when anything unusual occurs to their lords, so Lady Macartney expressed to Mrs. Barrow her wonder what 254 HENRY VISCOUNT MKLVILIj;. I Skit I. could have brought Lord Melville at that hour — somo- thing, no doubt, about the new ministry then furminir or already formed. Nothing, however, transpired that evening; but about twelve o'clock that same night, just as I had gone to bed, v^aine a note from Lord Ma- cartney to say, " You must be at the Admiralty to- morrow morning at ten o'clock, and send your name up to Mr. jNIarsden." I went accordingly, anxious, as may be supposed, to know what was going on. Mr. Marsden took mo bv the hand and cordially congratulated me. I asked liir what ? He seemed surprised, and said, " Don't yoii know that you are a])pointed my colleague, the Second Secretary of the Admiralty, in the room of Mr. Tucker, whose services Lord Melville has deemed it right to dispense with, on account of his well-known partisan- ship? But," he added, "Lord Melville desired to see you the moment you came, and he is now in his room." On being ushered in, " I am happy," he said, " to have had it in my power to give you the appointment of Second Secretary of the Admiralty. I am fully aware of the many important services you rendered to my nephew, after Lord Macartney had turned over to him the government of the Cape of Good Hope. I was very desirous of meeting the wishes of that nobleman on your account, and I have already told you that I have been much gratified with what you have written regarding that importa^.it settlement, which I have little doubt will speedily revert to us. Being all new here, I need not say how much pressed Marsden finds hiniselC with the only two lords that have yet joined — old Sir Philip Stephens and Captciin James Gambler. Your ap- pointment is made out, and the sooner you put yoursc't that the ( left to repair, wortlij neithe alinostj author *It ralty fli I years I •ion, Ci I fJix wi Dawson I Berber: jh.ti Sect. I.] THE ADMIKALTY, 255 into harness the better." I told him Mr. Marsden had already engaged nie for the day. In taking leave with expressions of gratitude for his Lordship's great kind- ness, " By the way," he said, laughing, " I hope you are not a Scotehnian." " No, my Lord, I am only a borderer — I am Nortii Lancashire." He then said, "Mr. Pitt and myselfj but chiefly the latter, have been so imieli taunted for giving away all the good things to Seotchinen, that I am very glad, on the present occa- sion, to have selected an Englishman." * During the three years from 1801 to 1804, when Mr. Addington was at the head of the Government, and the Earl St. Vincent First Lord of the Admiralty, rhe boasted system of economy and retrenchment, par- tieuhu'ly in the naval department, had been carried to such an extreme that the appalling statement de- livered by Mr. Pitt in the House of Commons, and which upset the Government, was found, on the exami- nation of their successors, to be more than true, and that the deficiencies in every species of naval stores in the dock-yards were quite alarming. The few ships left to us were scattered at sea ; those at home out of repair, and no timber in store to place them in a sea- worthy state, much less to build others; there was neither rope, canvas, nor hemp to make them. It is almost incredible, though asserted on apparently good authority, that, on the conclusion of the truce, falsely * It is curious enough that, of the ten Secretaries of the Admi- ralty tliat iiave passed through the office in the course of the forty years I remained there, one single Scotchman only held that situa- : tioii, Captain George Elliot, and he was appointed by Lord Grey. I Six were Irishmen— Marsden, Wellesley Pole, Croker, O'Ferrall, Dawson, Corry; and three Englishmen — Parker, Wood, Sidney Herbert. . "> •: 1. 256 HENRY VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sect. named the peace, of Amiens, large quantities of hemp had actually been sold to French agents, to save the rent and other expenses of the warehouses in which a preceding government had carefully lodged it. All this folly had been committed under the crroucous notion that a peace had been established with France under the dominion of the llevolutionary goveriinieiit, and at a time when Buonaparte was overrunning Italy and the north of Europe, and his naval jreparatioiis, in combination with those of Spain, were so glaring a.s to be visible to all except to the infatuated governiiK'nt of Mr, Addington, an honest and good man, but an indifferent minister. That which most astonished tlie public was that Lord St. Vincent, at the head of tlie Board of Admiralty, did not take a more decided j)artin wiping off the disgrace incurred in his own departniuiit; instead of which, he and the professional members of his Board were at perpetual variance with the Navv Board, which it seems not doubtful they wished to de- stroy, and which ultimately the same party did suc- ceed in destroying : very greatly, as it has turned out, to the benefit of the naval service. The Stone Expedition to block up the porls of Hol- land, by heaving in masses of rock, contributed, as it was generally said, not a little to Lord St. Viiiccnt'> unpopularity and to a good deal of ridicule ; a nm- sure, however, which his Lordshij) disclaimed, and even avowed himself ashamed of But the M'liole of lii? administration was not popular with the public and still less with officers of the navy, who, it seems, ucrc at first delighted at the unusual event of having a luiva! First Lord as their governor. Such were the general topics of discourse when I Sect. I. tup: admiualty. 257 first entered the Admiralty, a great part of which has been confirmed by Mr. Marsden, iu a memoir which his widow has printed since his death. lie therein says, when speaking of Lord St. Vincent's Board of Admiralty, " We visited Woolwich and Deptford Yards, at the latter of which we experienced much abuse from the enraged families of Jie workmen dis- charged or reduced in their allowances, and with some difficulty escaped from worse treatment " (he told me they were pelted with mud by the women and boys). These reductions were probably unavoidable at the time ; but the general character of this naval adminis- tration was that of harshness, particularly as it respected the officers of the subordinate departments, with whom some personal ill-will was mixed up ; the object (as Marsden states) seeming to be that of finding grounds for k'liiiquencies presumed in the first instance. " People ask," he adds, " have not the Admiralty and the courts of law together power enough to punish delinquencies ill the dock-yards, or other na^al departments? But the object is to get rid of the Navy-Board ; they are not faultless. Like most other boards and public offices they have left many things undone ; but the visitation did not bring home to them any act of cor- ruption or malversation. It was then tried to drive them out by the most abusive letters that ever were written from one Board to another ; but they were too prudent to gratify our gentlemen in this way."* It was at this time that the detestable Commission of Naval Enquiry was concocted, of which Mr. Mars- den thus speaks : — " And now, this extraordinary Commission is re- * Brii'f JMciuoir of William Maibiltii, writttn by Himself. S 258 HENKY VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Skct. I, sorted to in the hope of its operating some way (thev cannot very well say how) to the end desired. I know it was their first idea to arm their friends,* the new Commissioners, with the power of punishing ; but now it is only intended they should inquire and report. The Minister gives way, ^?rtr complaisance, to Lord St. Vincent, against his own opinion of the proprictv of the measure." He continues : ' Our Board-room is a scene of anx- ious bustle and agitation, which sometimes puts me in a little passion, but more commonly makes me laiigli : for it is impossible for any person to be more inde pendent of the inquisitions and reforms that are goiii" forward than I am. * *• * * If I resign, I am afraid of its being said that I ran away from the new Commissioners. This is rather a curious dilemma; but, although it looks like a joke, it is serious eiiongii. Well, I must make the best of it ; at this season con- finement is less irksome than it would be in spring, when, please God, I shall be my own master. In the mean time an open quarrel between them and tlic Navy-Board, which I daily look for, will bring it to a crisis, and oblige me to determine between double and quits." Mr. Marsden, at the desire of Lord St. Vincent, remained as Secretary after Nepean had absolutely been driven out by the professional members of tlie Board. Mr. Addington, to soothe him, gave him the Secretaryship of Ireland and created him a baronet; but he said to his Lordship, " I was convinced, from experience of the temper.s, ideas, and conduct of the * These fri(Mi(ls were Charles M. PoI«?, Ewaii Law, John Foul. Ilein-y Nichols, and INIaekworth I'raed. Skct. I.] THE ADMIRALTY. 2.)9 nn tlie new professional members of the Board, that I could not possibly carry on the public business with them M-itli the least chance of satisfaction to my own feelings. I explained the defects of the present constitution of our department; expressing, at the same time, my con- viction that it was not in his Lordship's power to remedy it, as he could not change their natures nor do \vithout them."* With such a Board, and in such a deplorable state of the Navy, did the Lord Viscount Melville succeed to the administration of that important branch of the public service ; and, perhaps, there was not another individual in the whole kingdom so capable, by his exertion and talent, his aptitude for business, and re- solution to look at difficulties with a determination to overcome them, as was Lord Melville. But it was his fate, at the very commencement of his adminis- tration, to have the feelings of humanity strongly roused, in a way for which there was no relief. The precious Peace of Amiens was already broken, and the restless spirit of the French leader had driver. us into open Avar, the first instance of which was of a most deplorable nature — the unfortunate collision whieli took ])lace between two hostile squadrons : that of Captain Sir Graham Moore, consisting of four sail of the line — the ' Indefatigable,' of 80 guns, and three others of 74 guns — and that of Spain, of four ships exactly of the same force, in which three of the latter were captured and the fi)urth sunk. To the fatality of this s([uadron was added a most melancholy and distressing event. The ' 3ferce(Ies' blew up with a tremendous explosion, and sank. A wealthy * IJriet MtMiioir. h2 260 HENRY VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sect. I. Spaniard, with his lady, five sons, and four daughters, each beautiful and amiable, and the sons grown up to manhood, all, with the exception of the husband and father, with on-: son, perished. AVith a large fortune, the pavings of twenty-five years in a foreign country, did this unhappy gentleman embark to return to liis native country. Shortly before the conflict the father and one of his sons went on board the admiral's ship. and there thic unfortunate man became the spectator of a calamity involving the tate of his wife, his daughters, and four of his five sons, together with all liis treasure — the whole he beheld enveloped in flames and sinking into the abyss of ocean. This wretched victim of misfortune arrived at Plymouth in Sir Gra ham Moore's cabin, who had been — as all who luieu him will readily believe — unceasing in his attentions and condolence: using his best endeavours to admi- nister consolation and whatever was in his power to the alleviation of his sufferings ; which, however, it is hardly necessary to observe, were of a nature and extent not to admit of consolation ; nor need I observe that Lord Melville was most painfully afflicted at this domestic calamity, occurring on his first entrance upon the administration of the navy. Scarcely had his Lordship occupied his seat at the Board of Admiralty, when another unfortunate disaster was brought to his notice. The ' Apollo,' with ahout forty ships of her convoy, out of sixty-nine, were driven on the coast of Portugal and wrecked, with the loss of many lives. A considerable share of blame was at- tached to the commanding officer, for Jiot having given a wider berth to that coast, and for not steering a course more westerly ; and as those of the convoy-ships Sect. 1.] THE ADMIRALTY. ?61 that fortunately by doing so did escape, some grounds were afforded for censure. These were accidents for which no blame could attach to the ruling powers on shore. But Lord Mel- ville suffered no delay to prevent his taking immediate and decisive steps, to obliterate the obnoxious character received of the British Navy, by restoring that good feeling among its members which it had, till of late vears, maintained. The urbanity, the kind and friendly manner in which his Lordship received all officers of the Navy, his in- variable good-humour, and probably above all, his admitted impartiality in the distribution of appoint- iiieiite!, soon banished from the minds of officers a very jxeiieral mistake as to his character, occasioned by a pre- conceived prejudice that all his favours and predilec- tions would be conferred on his own countrymen. It was not unnatural that he himself, as well as others, :^hould entertain some apprehensions of such a prejudice l)ein<r imputed to him, from the immense patronage given to him in consequence of the several offices he held in Scotland, where a j)reference of his countrymen was unavoidable ; but it may be mentioned to his ircdit that, durijig his administration of the affairs of the Navy, he was never charged with any such predi- kction. The observation he made to me, on ray ap- pointment, expressed his feeli/jg and his intention on this suhjcci. In coiilirmation of what I have stated I am enabled to give a very striking instance. One day at dinner, when Adnural Lord Duncan and some other officers Were present. Lord Melville, in the course of conversa- tion, expressed some surprise bordering pji disappoint- « w 2(i2 HENRY VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Skct, I. nieiit that no application had been made for employ- ment by that gallant officer Sir Thomas Troubridge, bv Sir B. Hallowell, and others whom he could have ex- pected, and wished to come forward and offer their services, and some regret to think that any of Lord St Vincent's favourite officers should entertain a politieal dislike to him, as it could he no other, and said tliat if Sir Thomas would wish for service he should be most happy to employ him. Having mentioned this to a friend of Sir Thomas, the latter called on me at the Admiralty in a few days, said he was gratified to learn that he was not one of the excluded, and asked if I thought Lord Melville would see him. I replied, "1 know he will." He was unmediately admitted, and after his audience he mentioned to me his deep regret he had so misconceived the character of the noble Lord. " Sir," said he to me, " he not only received me in the most friendly manner, but told me that if I was ready to hoist my flag, he would appoint me to any vacant station I might choose — I might name my own ship — that it was intended to divide the Indian station into two separate commands, and that one of them should forthwith be at my service. I accepted this frank and friendly offer ; he then said, ' Now name your ship, and she shall immediately be prepared for conunission.' I named the ' Blenheim.' Now," said Sir Thomas, " was not this a most gratifyini; reception, and was it not noble on the j)art of Lord Melville ? " The unfortunate issue of this choice, both as regards the division of the command, which produced, if not a (piarrel, at least a serious misunderstanding between the two commanders-in-chief, and the melancholy 'i': : Sect. I-] THE ADMIRALTY. 2()3 catastrophe of the ship on her voyage home, by which every soul on board perished, were most distressing. Lord Melville suffered no delay to occur in the mea- sures taken for replenishing the dock-yards with every species of naval stores ; perhaps, in some respects, as far as regards economy in the expenditure of public money, his anxiety may have caused him to err in going to the opposite extreme of his predecessors ; but, on the other hand, the depressed state of the Navy and the want of means to recruit it found a justification for his eagerness to })urcliase stores, and vigorously to set about a general repair of those ships, that had been suffered to rot at their imorings, as well as to lay down a certain nu:nber of ships!) f the line and frigates; and in order to have in readiness a large and efficient ilect, which the pro- gress making by Buonaparte, now become Emperor of the French, evidently made expedient, he caused at once contracts to be made, in private yards, for building forty ships of seventy guns, which a facetious naval lord of a subsequent Board of Admiralty called "the forty thieves." The blame was, if any, in building such a great nundjer of so small a calibre ; but they have 'hjue i^'ood service. Nor should it be omitted to notice that a great part of the ordinary was found to be in so crazy a state, as to re([uire new-building at an enormous expenditure of money and time. Lord Melville, therefore, did not hesitate to adopt a plan, suggested by Mr. Snodgrass, of diagonal braces, to be placed transversely from the ex- tremities of the gun-deck beams down to the kelson, and of doubling the outside planking. With these txpedicnts we had a tleet just in time to meet the com- l)ined fleets of France and Spain at Trafalgar, and it 2G4 HENRY VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Skct. I. was generally thought that the addition of these dou1)led and cross-braced ships contributed much to the successful issue of that great conflict. It was soon found, however, that more than conniion efforts were necessary in the naval department; for notwithstanding the severe losses the enemy had sus- tained in the destructive battle of the Nile, and in other subsequent actions, such gigantic exertions wqyg made, both by French and Spaniards, under tire influence of Napoleon, that their united force at this time exhibited a numerical superiority of ships ready for service. Lord Melville was indefatigable, and in April, 1805, he had got together a respectable fleet ; but men were wanting, and recourse was to be had to pressing. The anxiety of Mr. Pitt will be seen by the following note he sent to the Board of Admiralty : — "■ Downing Street, April 30tli, 1805, half-pcost two A. M. " On returning from the House I have just found these papers ; they are of the most pressing importance. I will go to bed for a few hours, but will be ready to see you as soon as you please , as I think we must not lose a moment in taking measures to set afloat every ship that by any species of extraordinary exertion we can find means to man. At such an emergency I am inclined to think many measures may be taken to ob- tain a supply of men for the time, which would not be applicable to any case less immediately urgent." It was this note that hastened Lord Melville's ex- pedient, already in progress, of doubling, cross-bracing, and otherwise strengthening a number of ships of the line, considere/i unworthy of a lengthened and thorough Sect. I. THE ADMIRALTY. 265 repair, and which by this summary process were made fully adequate for temporary service. The event proved the value of the measure by the proud fleet with which Lord Nelson fought and conquered the comhined fleets of France and Spain at the battle of Trafalgar. But the political tactics of " all the Talents " were not likely to be assuaged by the increased energy of their Tory opponents, who had succeeded them in office. It was not believed, however, that, as a body, any personal feeling of hostility existed against Mr. Pitt or Lord Melville. Many of them were known to be living on friendly terms, especially with the latter, whose good-humoured and cheerful disposition was not only calculated to disarm hostility, but to secure friend- ship. He became, however, a mark for inveterate ma- lice to aim its too successful shaft against ; and when a victim is to be immolated, a hierophant is seldom wanting to undertake the part of executioner. The Corypheus of the band, on the present occasion, was Mr. AVliitbread, a wealthy plebeian brewer, who had ;i>piro(l to become a senator. This person undertook to be the chief manager of a trial of impeachment, in the House of Lords, against Lord Viscount Melville, to which I shall allude presently. A short notice of this gentleman may not be unamusing. Mr. Whitbread, in his opening speech ])efore the Jiords, was charged, to the brim with invectives, and exhibited a display of animosity unparalleled before >uch an audience ; but in the midst of it, he could not avoid aumsing their Lordships with n particular gra- pliical account of his origin and family ; whether as a specimen of "pride aping humility," or to display 266 HENRY VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Skct. I. the talent and ingenuity of the old original brewer, his progenitor, from whom the wealth of the faniilv proceeded, he best could tell. This part of the spcicli was too good of its kind to escape the poetical acumen of Mr. Canning, who amused himself and many others by giving a clever and playful parody on the brewer's family history, almost in the same words as spoken by the eloquent senator. Parody on part of Whithrrad\s Speech before the Lords, in Wcstminsttr Hall. " I 'in like Arclumedes for scienco and skill ; 1 'ni like a young ))rince going- straight up a hill ; I 'm like (with respect to the fair be it said) — I 'm like a young lady just bringing to bed. If you ask why tlie 11th of June I remember Much better than Ai)ril, or jVfay, or November, On that day, my ''iords, with truth, I assure ye, My sainted progenitor set up Ids brewery ; On that day, in the morn, he began brewing beer. On tiiat, too, commenced his connubial career ; On that day he receiveil and issued his bills ; On that day he cleared out all the cash from his tills ; On that day he died, having finish'd his summing. And the angels all cried ' Here 's old Wiiitbroad a-coming ! ' So that day T still hail with a smile and a sigh. For his beer with an E and his bier with an I ; And still on that day, in the hottest of weather, Tlie whole Whitbread family dine all together. So long as the beams of this house shall support Tiio roof which o'ershades tins respectable Court, Where Hastings was tried for oppressing the Hindoos, — So long as tiie sun shall shine in at those windows. My namesiiall shine bright, as my ancestor's shines,— Mine recorded in journals, his blazon'd on signs," An Act had passed for appointing "Conimissioiiers to cn(iuire and examine into any irregularities, fraiuLs ■ >:'' StCT. I.J THE ADMII{ALTY. 2(i7 or abuses which circ or have hcen practised by persons oiiiploycd ill the several Naval dc])artincnts therein inciitioiied." The new Commissioners were those iipplifd for and appointed by Lord St. Vincent's Board of Admiralty, as before stated; and well and zealously (lid they perform their invidious task; going back in tlioir tenth report a long series of years, to enquire into the annual expenditure of thousands and tens of tliousaiids of money, and to search for irregularities, frauds, and abuses in the expenditure of those sums of moiioy ; and never were a set of men better adapted, by their persevering industry, for this kind of work. Lord Melville was a great card to be played. He had served many years as Treasurer of the Navy, and Mr. Trotter as Paymaster; and the latter acted as private agent and banker to the former, received his salary and other monies, and supplied him with what cash he might requin ; but he advanced him also out of the public money such small sums as were constantly demanded of him for current public services, to avoid his drawing frequently for such trifles on the Bank of Kiiglaiul. In short, a running account appears to have bueu kept for convenience sake, which, though it might have been an irregularity as a private account between the Treasurer of the Navy and the Paymaster, yet it facilitated, without injuring, the public service. Lord Melville being summoned to appear before these Commissioners, and they having read over to him the several sums received, paid, and replaced for twenty years past, he was then asked, somewhat impertinently, it must be admitted, "Did you derive any profit or advantage from the use or employment of money issued tor carrying on the public service of the Navy " . ". * IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) M ^ <,^/<^ j^^ % 4 & 1.0 !f «- ilM I.I .. .,. IlM M 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■^ 6" — ► ^. V2 i9 /} .^^ "^ .,>' Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '9. IJ^J 4" # #.^ 4f^> ^ uiuibuiii r.i! 268 iip:nry viscount melville. [Sect. I. *' K. ! '^ '■. • ■ . - I. ''■' • '- ■ (during such and such periods, twenty year3 before) when you held the office of Treasurer of the Navy ? " Lord Melville indignantly replied, " I decline an- swering this question." He might have told them that he did not condescend to answer so insulting, improper, and illegal a question, which, he believed, no other five gentlemen in England would have proposed, and which a culprit in a police-office would have been warned not to criminate himself by answering. Lord Melville had already told his inquisitors that it was utterly impossible for him, after such a lapse of years and in such a mass of accounts, to enter into any verbal explanation of them, and he desired to refer them to the Paymaster, who had kept a special and separate account of them. Here was ample ground laid for the exercise of Mr. Whitbread's decided inveteracy, unexampled even in party violence, and he pledged himself to follow up his charges to the utmost, which were as follow : — " L For having applied the money of the public to other uses than those of the naval department, in gross violation of his duty. "2. His conniving at a system of peculation in an individual, and for which connivance he denounced him as guilty of a high crime and misdemeanour. " 3. His having himself been a participator in that system of peculation ; but as this rested on suspicion only, at present he shopld not insist upon it." And he ended by reading thirteen resolutions, all of which he had the assurance to call moderation on his part. Moderation, indeed ! to charge a high officer of the crown with being a participator in a system of peculation, avowing at the same time that the ohiirge rested on suspicion only. i-f* Sect. I.] THE ADMIRy^LTY. 2G9 A specimen of his moderation was soon given : on the next day he moved an address to the King, that this untried nobleman, charged on suspicion only, should be removed from his councils and presence lor ever. The Chancellor of the Exchequer informed the House that Lord Melville had resigned the office of First Lord of the Admiralty. This did not abate the rancour of Whitbread ; he renewed his motion to have him dismissed from all offices under the Crown, and from the King's councils and presence for ever ; and in this he was supported by some, but not many, of the Whig party. Mr. Canning did not think that a case of bare sus- picion warranted the severity of the proceedings now proposed, and said, in that pointed and powerful man- ner which he knew so well to employ, " When I look back to the proceedings in this House in 1795, upon the serious charges then brought forward against two most eminent commanders, and find that their most active defender and most indefatigable advocate was that very noble Lord who has now been the theme of the honour- able gentleman's violence and invective, I little ex- pected that, in his present defenceless state, attempts to hunt him down would have been made by the kindred of Mr. Charles Grey and the friends of Sir John Jervis." I believe that this biting remark had its effect, at least in one quarter. A gain, Whitbread still persisting in his motion for erasing the name of Lord Melville from the list of the Privy Council, Mr. Pitt told him his object was already accomplished. He felt it a duty to advise the erasure. " I am not ashamed," he said, " to confess that, how- ever anxious I might be to accede to the wishes of the ■I ''\ '■'If'* 270 HENRY VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Skct. I. .' *:*. I.: li'.i I ■ ,„"" it':' ; ' :.. House of Commons, I felt a deep and bitter pang in being compelled to be the instrument of rendering more severe the punishment of the noble Lord." The malignity and the malevolence ofWhitbread were not yet satiated. On the 7th of June he concluded an inveterace speech by moving " That Henry Lord Viscount Melville be impeached of high crimes and misdemeanours," which was lost by a majority of "Jl peers against it. Another motion for a criminal pro- secution >7as carried, but rescinded the next day ; and a motion from a neutral party for proceeding by im- peachment was carried, on the ground "that the rank and station of the defendant demanded all the respect due to the high order of which he was a member ; and that a trial before his peers was more consistent with the spirit of the constitution." An order was then made that Mr. Whitbread " do go to the Lords and impeach," &c. &c. The committee of management consisted of Whit- bread, Fox, Grey, Sheridan, Henry Petty, Marsham, Giles, Folkstone, Orrery, et id genus omne — the elect of all the Talents. The three charges of Whitbread were multiplied into ten by the managers. The trial commenced on the 29th of April and terminated on the 12th of June, when Ihe Lord Chancellor, be- ginning at the junior baron, put the question "Is Henry Viscount Melville guilty or not guilty?" and all the Lords present having declared guilty or not guilty, the Lord Chancellor, after casting up the votes, found Lord Viscount Melville not guilty. Tlie Chancellor then declared to his Lordship " That the Lords had fully considered of his case, and had found him not guilty of high crimes and misdemeanoms 1 Itl - Sect. I.] THE ADMIRALTY. 271 charged on him by the impeachment of the House of Coninions." About seventy of the peers acquitted him of every one of the ten charges, and he had very large majorities on six of the ten, and the smallest he had was t' enty-seven on the second charge, " for per- mitting Alexander Trotter, his paymaster, to draw from the Bank of England, for other purposes than Navy services, large sums of money, and to place the same in the hands of Thomas Coutts and Co., his private bankers," an avowed fact that could not be negatived. Though thus completely acquitted, the prosecution, or persecution, so far answered the purpose of Whit- hread and his political accomplices (which is supposed to have been the main object) that it incapacitated Lord Melville for acting against them in future, and ■^stened, as generally believed, the death of Mr. Pitt, ohich happened on the 23rd of January, 1806, in his forty-seventh year, being of the same age as the 'm- raortal Nelson, whose career was cut short on the 5th of October, in the preceding year, and whose remains were deposited in St. Paul's Church the 9th of January, 1806, just fourteen days before Mr. Pitt's death. Another great character, Charles James Fox, expired on the 13th of September, 1806, in the 58th year of his age. He should have died some fifteen mouths sooner. Lord Melville continued to enjoy the peace and quiet of domestic life free from the labours, toil, and anxiety which for some years past he had been made to endure. He had looked forward to his son, Kobert Dundas, taking an activeand important share in public •{*< • •• • : t ■ * 1, t ., i I ,-i ■■ » 272 HENRY VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sect. I. life, and supporting that character which his exemplary conduct, during the persecution himself had to struggle with, obtained, and which won high praise from all parties. In 1809 he became President of the Board of Control, from whence he was appointed in 1812 First Lord of the Admiralty. Had his father livxcl but a year longer he would have had the gratification of seeing his son in possession of that high office, which he himself had filled to the satisfaction of all unf il ails- fortunes came upon him. He lived mostly on his pro- perty at Dunira, occasionally visiting Edinburgh, where he had a number of friends. It was here that he died, after a short illness, on the 27th of May, 1811. "His loss," says Walter Scott, " will be long and sever«.lv felt here (Edinburgh), and Envy is already paying her cold tribute of applause to the worth which she ma- ligned while it walked upon earth." The proceedings in Westminster Hall were looked upon very generally as a party persecution, and Lord Melville met with the greatest kindness and sympathy from high quarters where he had no reason to expect it. But he also received it with increased satisfaction from persons of inferior rank. There is mentioned in ' The Lives of the Lindsays ' an instance of the gene- rous conduct of a young man, which affected Lord Melville very much. It is told by Lady Anne Bar- nard. " Amidst the many cruel emotions that arose to Dundas on an occasion when men are proved, I saw a pleasurable one flow from his eyes in a flood of tears. which seemed to do him good. A young man (the younger brother of my sister-in-law, Mrs, A. Lindsay) was sent, when quite a boy, to the East Indies by Lord * . Skct. I.] THE ADMIRALTY. 273 Melville, as a writer ; his industry and abilities gave him a little early prosperity ; he heard of this attack on Dundas ; he venerated him ; he knew he was not a man of fortune — he had made five thousand or more —and in words the most affectionate and respectful, manly and kind, he remitted to him an order for the money, should he have occasion for it, to assist in de- fraying the heavy expenses he must be put to." "He read it to me," says Lady Anne, "with an exultation of satisfaction, and then observed, ' I have never beheld a countenance but one that did not feel this letter as it ought when I read it, and that one was my daughter-in-law's, before she knew that I had refused it.' 'I hope,' said she, 'that while my purse is full, you will never receive aid from a stranger.' ' I knew she spoke as she felt ; to find two such people at such a moment, is it not worth a score of desertions ? ' " Th's young man was Mr. Dick, afterwards Sir Robert Keith Dick. Among the voluntary contributors towards proving the falsehood of Lord Melville " being himself a par- ticipator in the system of peculation," was a gentleman I was partit'ilarly glad to discover — Mr. Gibson, of the 3 per cent, office of the Bank of England, the son of my old friend the mathematician and almanac- maker in North Lancashire.* He undertook a strict examination of Mr. Trotter's accounts, of the sums of money he received fro.n Lord Melville, the sums he supplied to him and the sums returned ; he calculated * It was a great pleasure to me to be able to appoint his grand- :-im to a clerkship in the Admiralty, and also to take him as my private secretary— a clever, well-looking youth, but he did not turn out well— the only private secretary I ever had. It . I'S P3: • ■ i: •' ,, \ ♦ ■ , ,. f ^r 1* » - i *( '■I , -' i ■ ■ *v ,■.^;'i i^C , life ^. 274 HKNllY VISCOUNT MELVILLR. [iJECT. I, the interest on both sides, and the result was that, i in- stead of the noble Lord having derived any profit hy these accommodations, the balance of interest against him was several thousand pounds. I advised him to show these accounts to Mr. Plonier ; but as the trial had ended with a verdict of acquittal, Mr. Plonier thought that, ^iowe\ei important they might have been if produced on the trial, they could not now be made available. Lord Melville, by his early retirement from tlie Admiralty, escaped many disappointments which his immediate successors had to encounter; but lie had also the satisfaction of being well assured, that hy his great exertions and prompt measures for meeting the im- pending storm about to burst from the united forces of poM'erful enemies, the most glorious naval victory that ever crowned the fleet of England was achieved at Trafalgar. Every administration of the Admiralty has had to grapple with a host of charlatans with their absurd and useless projects, which they call inventions. Lord Melville was not disposed to encourage such, and yet Mr. Pitt and he were accused of allowing an American, of the name of Fulton, to impose upon them with his catamarans to destroy ships of war and all within them, secretly and without any intimation ; and this man had the hardihood to recommend the blowing up of ships of war, and destroying the whole crew, un- conscious of what was about to happen to them, and to boast of it as a humane invention. This person, after oflfering his projects to the French and to the Dutch, did apply to the English minister with such credentials as prevailed on Mr. Pitt to ask Lord Melville to pro- vide him some old worthless vessel to blow up in M SKfT. I.] THE ADMIRALTY. 275 Waliner Roads. An old Danish brig was procured, and a day fixed, when the two ministers were to be present; but they took care to be in London, and the ship, with the assistance of Sir Home Pophani, was fired without the two seeing it or knowing anything of the matter. Who would have thought that forty years after this the same species of delusion, with the same kind of assistance, would have been played oif ni Brighton ? V Ml T 2 -s'j I-:' -J . 276 LORD BAUUAM. [Sect. II, '1, „ . « . I' ''h f. Section II. Lord Barham (Sir Charles Mkhllcton). May 21, 1805— Feb. 5, 1806. Captain James Gambiek. . ..First Naval Lord. William Marsden First Secretary. On the resignation of the late First Lord, on the 20th of April, 1805, Sir Charles Middleton (created Lord Barham) was appointed to the vacant situation. He had held the office of Comptroller of the Navy for a period of thirty years (from 1775 to 1805), was now eighty years of age or upwards, and, of course, might be expected to bring to his new department a few pre- judices from the Board, over which he had so long pre- sided, and from which Lord St. Vincent, in one of his cutting sarcasms, had strongly recommended Mr. Thomas Grenville " to brush away the spiders ;" a task, however, which his Lordship himself did not venture to set about, while he was First Lord of the Ad- miralty. One of the first points of knowledge, to which the attention of a new First Lord is usually drawn, is the number of vacancies to be filled up ; a statement of the available fleet, and of the number of seamen borne; what ships are required to be put into commission; what civil or military vacant appointments exist, or are O'M* Sect. II.] THE ADMIHALTY. 277 likely to occur ; and to find some fault in the arrange- ments made by his predecessor, if it be only to change them, in order to show his own superior discerning. Lord Barhani, however, at the advanced period of his life, was satisfied to let things go on in their usual course, to remain quiet in his own room, to make few enquiries, and to let the Board consider and settle the current affairs of the Navy among themselves. In fact, he never attended the Board ; but when any doubtful question arose, one of the Lords or the Secretaries took his decision on it in his own room. An instance oc- curred, however, which called for his speedy inter- ference; but instead of settling it at once, whc.i I told him of it, as he might easily have done, he ;ictually wrote off to Mr. Pitt, stating the case and requesthig his interference on a personal question. The case was this. One morning, as Captain Gambler entered the board- room, the only persons there being Lord Garlics and myselfj Captain Gambier had no sooner taken his seat than Lord Garlics, in a loud and angry tone, burst forth at once, saying, " I despise the man who can say one thing to your face and another thing out of doors behind your back." " Do you mean to apply that to me ?" asked Gambier. " Yes, I do," said Lord Garlics. Not a word more was spoken, but the Cap- tain took his hat and said to me, " You haT'e heard how I have been insulted, and I never enter this room again without a suitable apology." I told the whole to Lord Barham, and he immediately wrote to Mr. Pitt, who speedily came to the Admiralty, and I was sent for. Mr. Pitt asked me to let him know precisely what had taken place; and having told him, he said, " Have you any doubt which of the two is the aggrieved ..•«• ^s^w 278 i-OJU) BAHIIAM. [Skct. II. ivi- .* - •I, 'i-r "■ * 4. ]/'■■' '' • 'llv •' ■'• 1- r ■ - • party ?" I said that, " Being in utter ignorance of what had previously talven phice between them, I can only speak of what occurred in my presence, and I can have no hesitation in giving it as my opinion that Lord Garlics was the first and only aggressor." He then said, "I will soon settle this matter;" and 1 IcfUlie room. The next morning I found Lord Garlics sitting at the Board. lie took no notice to me of what had hap- pened, and in a little time Captain Gambier made his appearance, upon which Lord Garlics rose, and, meet- ing him, held out his hand, and asked pardon for tlio hasty and outrageous manner in which he had incau- tiously and in anger spoken, and hoped his forgiveness. Mr. Pitt, it appeared, on leaving Lord Barhani, liad written to both. The dispute had arisen from some difference of opinion about warrant officers. Lord Garlics was an excellent man, but of a warm and sanguine temperament. Gambier, in temperament quite the reverse ; of a mild and serious turn, he was pleasing in his manners, and a perfect gentleman. The following incident, which is given in the ' Life of Howe,' is an illustration of his character : — In the midst of the battle of the 1st of June, when the little 'De- fence,' of 74 guns, which he commanded, was threatened to be overwhelmed by a French 120-gun ship bearing down upon her, the lieutenant of the after-part of (he main-deck, in a momentary panic, ran upon the quarter- deck, and addressing the captain with great eagerness, exclaimed, " D — n my eyes, sir, here is a whole moun- tain coming down upon us ; what shall we do ?" Cap- tain Gambier, unmoved, said in a solemn tone, " How dare you, sir, at this awful moment, come to me with ■fiii'-.r '■ «• saT. no THE ADMIKALTY. 279 lat eagerness, ail oath ill your mouth? (io down, sir, and encourage vuur men to stand to their guns like hrave British !.Lainen." 1 asked Lord (Jianibier some years aiter- warils if the story was true ; his reply was that he k'liovod something of the kind had occurred. Lord liarham's nine montlis' administration of the aliaiivs of the British Navy was ittended with the most glorious victory ever accomj)lished, and the most lamented loss ever sustained, by the death of the im- mortal Nelson. This bravest of the brave having returned from his anxious chase after the French fleet, as he supposed, bad gone to the West Indies ; but having been misled, harassed, and vexed in the extreme, he writes an angry but characteristic letter to his friend, Alexander Davison, dated " ' Vict(n'y,' 2 1th July, 1805," in which he says: "I am as miserable as you can conceive. Hut for General Brereton's d — d information, Nelson would have been, living or dead, the greatest man in his profession that England ever saw. Now, alas! I am nothing — perhaps, shall incur censure for misfortunes which may happen and have happened. When I tbllow my own head I am, in general, much more cor- rect in my judgment than following the 0})inions of others. 1 resisted the opinion of General Brereton's information — it would have been the height of presump- iioa to have carried my belief further." lie then re- peats, "But! am miserable" — and adds "that until the enemy is arrived somewhere in some port m the Bay, I can do nothing but fret." On the ■25th of July he desires Admiral Colling- wood to continue the service he has hitherto been employed upon off Cadiz, while he should proceed with ■ i' , "» ' m flfllln' ft « •• ".. ./ •. ■'hi " - 280 LOUD BARHAM. [Slct. II. his West Indian squadron to the northward in search of the combined squadron. And in a private letter he tells his " dear Collingwood " he must forego the plea- sure of taking him by the hand until October next, " when, if I am well enough, I shall (if the Admiralty please) resume the command." In the autumn of 1805 Lord Nelson arrived in England, and, being much out uf health, retired to a small place he had at Merton, where he remained in quiet in the midst of a pretty garden and in the society of his sister and Lady Hamilton. But the enjoyment he otherwise would have had is said to have been con- stantly interrupted by conjectures of what the enemy's fleet consisted, what he was projecting, and what was the force and the disposition of his own fleet to meet it. While he was thus tormenting himself in matters of this kind, and in calling to mind the hope he had ex- pressed to Admiral Collingwood, of rejoining him in the month of October, Captain Blackwood arrived with dispatches, announcing that the combined fleets of France and Spain had got into Cadiz. This intelH- gence adm? >ced of no hesitation or delay — Nelson was himself again. He set ofl' immediately for the Ad- miralty ; told Lord Barham he was on his way to rejoin his fleet the moment the ' Victory ' was ready at Spit- head, where a squadron was prepared as a reinforce- ment ; and in three days he was again in town on his way to Portsmouth. He had been with me at the Admiralty in the morn- ing, anxiously inquiring and expressing his hopes about a code of signals just then improved and enlarged. I assured hinr they were all but ready ; that he should not be disappointed, and that I would take care they Sect. II.] THE ADMIRALTY. 281 should be at Portsmouth the following morning. On his way, in the evening, he looked in upon me at the Admiralty, where I was stopping to see them off. I pledged myself not to leave the office till a messenger was dispatched with the signals, should the post have departed, and that he might rely on their being at Portsmouth the following morning. On this he shook hands with me; I wished him all happiness and success, which I was sure he would command as he had always done ; and he departed apparently more than usually cheerful. He had no new commission to receive, nor instructions of any kind ; he had come on shore on his own leave, and was returning to reassume the command which he had temporarily left with an inferior officer. This was on the 12th of September, and on the next night he took a last leave of his dear Merton, his friends and family ; and the following entry appears in his diary : — "At half-past ten drove from dear, dear Merton, where I left all which I hold dear in this world, to go to serve my king and country. May the great God whom I adore enable me to fulfil the expectations of my country; and if it is His good pleasure that I should return, my thanks will never cease being offered up to the throne of His mercy. If it is His good providence to cut short my days upon earth, I bow with the greatest submission, relying that he will pro- tect those so dear to me that I may leave behind. His will be done. Amen Amen." Oil his arrival at Portsmouth the following morning, he hoisted his flag on board the 'Victory;' and anxious to lose no time in rejoining the fleet, he sailed the moment she was ready, leaving the rest of the « 1, <• ^ ^s -m il SSS ^mmm ■M .' ». 282 LOUD BARIIAM. [Sect. 11. squadron of* reinforcement to follow him. On the l/th he writes from Plymouth to Sir George Rose, con- eluding his letter thus : — " I will try to have a motto — at least it shall be my watchword — ' l^oach and take.' 1 will do my best; and if I fail in any point, I hope it will be proved that it will be owing to no fault of^ my dear Mr. Rose, your very faithful friend, " Nklson and Bpon te." »•■ !•) 1- 4» On the evening of the 28th September he saw the enemy's fleet in Cadiz, amounting to thirty-five or thirty-six sail of the line, joined the fleet under Lord CollingMOod, and re-assumed the command of twenty- three sail of the line ; and he mentions six being occasionally at Gibraltar. In a letter of the 1st of October he says, — " I believe my arrival was most wel- come, not only to the commander of the fleet, but also to every individual in it : and when I came to explain to then the Nelson touch, it was like an electric shock: some shed tears — all approved. ' It was new — it was singular — it was simple ; ' and from admirals down- wards it was repeated. " It must succeed if ever they will allow us to get at them. You are, my Lord, surrounded by friends whom you inspire with confi- dence." He writes strongly to the Admiralty, to send him frigates and sloops, which he calls the ei/es of the Jleet ; and in writing to Sir G. Rose, he suggests that Mr. Pitt should "hint to Lord Barham to send him plenty of frigates and sloops." Every letter, indeed, repeats the necessity of having frigates and sloops. On the 0th of October Lord Nelson issues a me- Sect. II.] THE ADiMIllALTY. 283 morandi'in of the manner in which, under certain circuii. stances, the British fleet will go into action. On the 20th the enemy were out; and on the 21st he writes as follows in his private diary : — " At daylight saw die enemy's combined fleet from E. to E. S. E. ; bore away ; made the signal for ' Order of sailing,' and to ' Prepare for battle ;' the enemy with their heads to the southward; at 7, the enemy wearing in succes- sion. May the great God, whom I worship, grant to mv country, and for the benefit of Europe in general, a great and glorious victory ; and may no misconduct ill any one tarnish it ; and may humanity after victory be the predominant feature in the British fleet. For myself^ individually, I commit my life to Him who made me, and may his blessing light upon my en- deavours for serving my country faithfully. To Him I resign myself, and the just cause which is entrusted to me to defend. Amen." The most decisive battle was fought and the most glorious victory obtained that had ever crowned the naval arms of Great Britain ; and the fame of which has been blazoned forth through the four quarters of the world in unfading characters of praise and admira- tion; while the name of Nelson is hailed in songs of triumph throughout the wide extent of the British do- minions. The report of this most glorious and stupendous victory of Trafalgar was accompanied with the melan- choly and lamentable intelligence of the death of Nelson, invincible while life remained. This mixed intelligence of joy and mourning arrived at the Admiralty, in the middle of the night of the 6th of November. Mr. Marsden had retired to rest, M'hen he • M'' » . .1. « ii . ■ -r ■ .1 • .1 ' . 284 LORD BARHAM. [Sect. II, was told that an officer had just arrived. On coining down, the officer meeting him with a packet of dis- patches, said to him hastily, " Sir, we have gained a great victory, but we have lost Lord Nelson." The im- pression, which such an abrupt address was calculated to make on the Secretary to the Admiralty, may readily be conceived ; and Marsden has left on record the way in which his report of this triumphant but mournful in- telligence was received by Lord Barham. He went to him about one o'clock in the morning. " The First Lord," he says, " had retired to rest, as had his domestics, and it was not till after some research that I could discover the room in which he slept. Drawing aside his curtains, with a candle in my hand, I awoke the old peer from a sound slumber : and to the credit of his nerves be it mentioned, that he showed no symp- tom of alarm or surprise, but calmly asked, ' What news, Mr. Marsden ? ' We then discussed, in few words, what was immediately to be done ; and I sat up the remainder of the night with such of the clerks as I could collect, in order to make the necessary com- munications, at an early hour, to the King, the Prince of Wales, the Duke of York, the Ministers, and other m'^mbers of the Cabinet, and to the Lord Mayor." The good old King, with that punctuality and pro- priety for which he was distinguished, acknowledged the receipt of the glorious intelligence through his Secretary, Sir Herbert Taylor, the very same day, in which he says, " However his Majesty rejoices at the signal success of his gallant fleet, he has not heard without expressions of very deep regret the death of its valuable and distinguished commander; although (he added) a life so replete with glory, and marked I r.'h Sect. II.] THE ADMIRALTY. 28i by a rapid succession of such meritorious services and exertions, could not have ended more gloriously." And Colonel Taylor adds, "I have not, upon any occasion, seen his Majesty more affected." The King had expressed much anxiety to be in full possession of every detail and particular respecting this great event ; and he testified his great satisfaction that the command, under circumstances so critical, should have devolved upon an officer of such consum- mate valour, judgment, and skill, as Admiral Colling- wood has proved himself to be ; every part of whose conduct he considers deserving of his entire approba- tion and admiration. "The feeling manner in which he has described the events of that great day, and those subsequent to it, and the modesty with which he speaks of himself whilst he does justice in terms so elegant and so ample to the meritorious exertions of the gallant officers and men under his command, have also proved extremely gratifying to the King." Never can I forget the shock I received, on opening the Board-room door, the morning afler the arrival of the dispatches, when Marsden called out — " Glorious news! The most glorious victory our brave navy ever achieved — but Nelson is dead ! " The vivid recollection of my interview with this incomparable man, and the idea that I was probably the last person he had taken leave of in London, left an impression of gloom on my mind that re(iuired some time to remove ; and the glorious result of the victory recurred ; though the other could not be obliterated speedily. " The circumstances of the splendid victory of the 21st of October, 1805, off Cape Trafalgar," says my colleague, "when nineteen of the enemy's ships of the line were ■.ii;! 286 LORD BARIIAM. [Skct, II. i;:' ■^.»":1 ''.-' •• . ■ • captured or destroyed, many of the rest disabled, and the conmiander-in-chief made prisoner, are too strongly imprinted on the public mind to require repetition here.* Suffice it to say, that so effectually was the naval force of our opponents crushed by this defeat, that no attempt was afterwards made to face an English squadron." The above note must have been written on the re- ceipt of Admiral Collingwood's first dispatch, dated the day following the battle, in which he says the enemv "left to his Majesty's squadron nineteen sail of the line." Seven days afterwards (28th of October) he gives the details of the enemy's losses in another dis- patch, thus : — 4 sent to Gibraltar 10 wrecked 3 burnt in action ;i sunk ditto 9 got into Cadiz, dismasted or damaged 4 escaj)ed or thus :- 33 ships of tlie liiip 4 sent to Gibraltar 16 destroyed 9 got into Cadiz ; G wrecked, 3 servic'eal)io 4 liaul'dd to tlie southward and escaped 33 ' - .♦ ■j.; -, • --J '■ If ■- ■' The four that escaped were fallen in with and cap- tured by four of equal force exactly, under Sirllichard Strachan, in the ' Caesar,' which, by the way, was one of the cross-hraced and doubled ships. * In his Memoir. I'FXT. II.] THE ADMIRALTY. 287 One result of this glorious victory was viewed in different lights, not contemplated at the time — the abaiidoiinicnt of the right of the flag; a right per- sisted in with extreme jealousy by us, and looked upon with great hatred and ill-will by foreigners. The right of the flag had invariably been demanded from all nations in the British seas, from a very early period of our naval history. Among the many, a remarkable one may be mentioned. Philip II. of Spain was shot at by the Lord Admiral of England, for wearing his flag in the narrow seas, when he came over with his fleet /() marry Queen Marif. At a later period King Charles II., in his declaration of war against the Dutch, in 1671, observes, — " the right of the flag is so ancient that it was one of the first prero- gatives of our royal predecessors, and ought to be the last from which this kingdom should ever depart ;" and he goes on — " Ungrateful insolence ! That they should contend with us about the dominion of those seas, who, even in the reign of our royal father, thought it an obligation to be permitted to fish in them." The right was maintained by order in Council of 1/34, and printed in the Naval Instructions, and con- tinued down to 1 806, when the right of the flag was abandoned, in consequence, it may be inferred, of the glorious victory of Trafalgar having swept every hostile fleet from the ocean. The article in the printed in- structions, issued after that victory, respecting the flag, was dropped altogether. In the new and the last printed instructions of 1844, a very negative article on this subject runs thus : — "Her Majesty's Jiips or vessels shall not, on any account, lower their top-gallant-sails nor their flags to 288 LORD BARHAM. [Sect. II, 'J. .if ■ • • r.ii h. . 1 any foreign ships or vessels whatsoever, unless the foreign ships or vessels shall first, or at the same time, lower their top-gallant-sails or their flags to them." The prohibitory order to our ships and vessels appears to be wholly unnecessary, and the simitltaimm striking of sails or flags next to impossible. The full admiral's I'ed flag, which had been aban- doned for centuries — no one seems to know why — was re-assumed in the General List of 1806, on the same occasion that the right of the flag was abandoned. Previous to the consummation of this grand battle, there was a small one with a small result that was neither victory nor defeat, but may be called a drawn battle with two captured ships of the line, I allude to the action fought by Sir Robert Calder, on the 23r(i of July, 1805, with fifteen sail of the line and two frigates, against twenty sail of the line and five frigaces, of which Sir Robert captured two sail of the line, and suffered the rest to escape, in order, as he said, to secure the two prizes, intending afterwards to pursue the main body ; which, however, he did not — as Lord St. Vincent projiounced, that he would not. An order forthwith issued for trying him by court-martial, for not doing his utmost ; and the court found that he had not done his ut;uost, and therefore sentenced him to be reprimanded. Calder, I believe, was considered a good profes- sional oflicer, but he lacked judgment. It was in his favour, and he pleaded it on his trial, that he had been flag-captain to Lord St. Vincent in the battle which bears the noble admiral's name, and here he showed a want of judgment morally speaking. When St. Vin- cent read to him his account of the battle, in which Nelson was mentioned with due praise : " Don't you ,* •* n, Sl-H'. II.] TIIK ADMIRALTY. 289 tliink," obbcncd Caldor, "lie disobeyed his orders?" "I'orlKips he did," replied the Earl, "and \vlieii vou do so with the same effect I will praise you too." He once threw the whole Cabinet into a state of alarm by a telegraph message, when Coinniander-in- cliicf at riymouth. Dispatches had been received from Spain, and Calder, anxious to convey the intel- ligence to town, sent up the following pcn'tion of a iiR'Ssagc; the rest was stopped by a fog: — "Wellington tlefeated ;" and thus it remained the whole day, to the (lisiiiay of those who knew only thus much of it. The arrival of Lord March (I tliink it was), in the course of the night, brought the account of a great victory over Marmont. The Admiral's head, like the wea- ther, was somewhat foggy. lie meant to say, "The French defeated by AVellington," but unfortunately bejian at tli^ ^vrong end. These and some other successes were accomplished during the first six of the nine months that the ve- teran peer j)resided over the Admiralty, unquestionably without any effort on his part. On the day of his de- parture, he did, hoAvever, make an effort to benefit — not himself — but his successor. AVhen Lord Barhaui succeeded to the office of First Lord of the Admiralty, the salary Mas 3000/. a-year ; that is to say, 1000/., like tiiat of each of the other Lords, as voted on the Or- dinary Estimate of the navy, but an additional 2000/. was paid to the First Lord, by the Treasurer of the Navy, out of the produce of old stores. Lord Bar- ham very properly considered this a shabby and incor- rect mode of paying a great officer of state; and, on the morning of his quitting office, he sent for me, and desired me to make a minute in his name, and u , "> ■• 1. .1 - ! 290 LOlil) DAiniAM. LSkct. II. k ■ % I ; I :'*,'■»» ';. ' * .»> '. T • ' .» for liis sif»ii,itnro, ox])rcssin(^ liis opinion tliat, in fiitim, this lii^h oiHcLT ought to hu put upon tlie sjinic lliotin^ as tlie Secretaries of State, and to have r)(M)()/. ji-vcip on the Kstinuite of tlie Navy. It was said witli re- gard to this minute, that Mr. tJliarles Urey, wlio succeeded l^ord IJarhani, availed himself of it; and that Lord liarham had lel't the minute on his disk for that ])urj)ose ; hut of this I am imahle to sjaak, as I (piitted office the same day with Lord JJarliaiii. I may venture to ohserve, this neither was nor could be true ; for until the year 1811 there appeared on the estimate only 7000/. for the seven Lords: 2000/., in adtlition, heing specially voted for the First Lord, whose salary, however, in 1812, was raised to 5000/. a-year, and was so printed in the Navy Estinuito of that year ; but whether in consequence of Lord Hai- ham's suggestion, or of the pr()])riety of the mcas'.ro, T know not. This sum, however, was reduced by a Committee of 18.31 to 4,.'jOO/. ; when my own was permitted to remain at 1,.5()0/., it having been reduced by a former Committee to that amount from the origi- nal salary of 2000/. i,1 , . • •! ' •if'' •." ii' *■ .■."} . tr: ' > " lb ! 1 ,'; ; . 4 SIXT. III.l T[IK ADMIRALTY. 201 Suction 111. Tin- nhjllt llini. CllAULKS GllKY. February 10, 18(Ki— Septcinln'r 29, IHOG. Admiral IMaiikiiam, Sir Ciiahm:h ToLr,, I'urt., and Sir II. 15. N'i:am:, liiut., the tiirei' Naval L(h<1s; hut which was coiisi- (Imd first I know not. JNfr. Mausdkn cnntiinicd First Sccrofary. 0.\ tlie 10th of February, 1800, a change took place ill the (Jioverinnent, hy the Tories having been obl'ged to ^nvc way to tiie Wliigs, M'heii the Right Ilonourabh^ Charles Grey was appointed to relieve Lord liarham as First Lord of the Admiralty. I was fully aware of Mhat was to be my fate, and had it speedily announced to lite by a message from the Ilight Hon. Charles Grey, tiirough Mr. Marsden, expressive of his sincere rcgv t at being under the painful necessity of dispensing with my services, which, he wished to assure nie, under other circumstances, he should have been too happy to retain; and he ho])ed that I would not deem him ca- pable of having dealt harshly, capriciously, or unjustly ill replacing an old friend of his, and of his j)arty, in a ^^ituatioii of which I had been the catise, though blame- less, of depriving him : a gentleman with whom he was desirous that I should be acquainted, as one who had long been the faithful, confidential, and attached secre- tary of the Earl of St. Vincent ; and who besides liad given up the patent place of a Commissioner of the u2 '. . I;' ■d ••.-' I ! ♦ ■1, .»•' it/'. i' -"V 29-^ THE IJKillT HON. CIIAULLS GlJliV. Lf'ixT.iu. Navy to follow his old niiister as Second Sccrctarv ot the iVdiniralty, when the noble Karl, in IHOl, became the First Lord. He was very anxious, Mr. Marsden said, that j should be made aware of the position in which he stood with regard to Mr. Tucker, and that I should ac(niit hi in of acting in any shape unhandsomely towards iiie; and he further desired Mr. Marsden to tell me that it I wished to say anything to him he would he glad to sec me at any time. Misfortunes are said rarely to come single. This heavy blow was but too likely to be soon followed hv another. My best and kindest friend and benefactor, the Earl of Macartney, was dangerously ill, and the state of affairs on the Continent, and the death of Mr. Pitt, seemed to impress his mind with deep concern, and to cast an unusual damp upon his s})irits ; but he con- tinued to read and write till three days bel'ore his doatli, Avhich took place on the evening of the .'Jlst of March, 1800, "while reclining his head on his hand as if dropping into a shunber, but he saidi. into the arnisot death without a sigh and without a struggle," at his residence in Mayfair. Thus did I lose the last of my three powerful friends and benefactors, Lord ]\lacart- ney, Sir George Staunton, and Lord Melville, the last of whom, though still living, might be accounted dead to the world. Intelligence had just been brought of the recapture of the Cape of (j ood Hope, and shortly after I received a note from Mr. Windham, who had now been ap- pointed Secretary of State for War and Colonies, de- siring to see me in Dowjung Street the followinir morning as early as convenient. Being personally ■•y.n\ lll.l THE ADMIIJAI.TY. 2US iic(|iiaiiite(l witli Mr. Wiudliaiii, jiiid liaviii^- more tlian MIX ooiivcrsi'd with liiin on tlic suljjcct ol' SoiitliciMi Atrica, I concluded he wislied for sonic iiit'onnatioii riijanHii^ this rcncM'cd accjuisitioii ; and so it ])rovcd. At nine in the morning, 1 I'oiind iiini pacinj;- tlic room, \\\[\\ his shirt-neck tlu'own oj)en, and h)oking in liis i!])|)oarance as it'soniethin;^ of a most perplexing nature liad taken possession of his mind; his fu'st words were, "Mr. Harrow, 1 have wished very much to see you, for I am greatly perplexed hy a minute I'rom Lord Gronville, directing that immediate ste])S be taken for siiiding out forthwith a reini'orcenient of tro()])s, to- ::xthcrwith a civil establishment, ibr the protection and iiiaiiagement of that important colony, the Cape of (iood Hope." "Here," lu^ said, "is a list of the situations and tlu; holders of them when you ceded the suttloinent to the Dutch ; and 1 find that you were (liit'f of the Commissioners to arrange the surrender. Will you cast your eye over that list and tell me what appointments are to be filled up, and who (if any) still remain to fill them ? but first, as 1 am sorry to find you are become an idle man, let me say, if any one of these appointments should suit you, place your finger u])on it, and, with one exception, 1 will most cheerfully name you for it." The exception was Mr. Andrew Barnard, the former Colonial secretary. I thanked liim cordially, but hoped he would give me a day or two to consider of it, as I wished first to see Mr. Grey. "By all means, see Mr. Grey, and I trust he will be desirous of doing something better for you than what I have to offer." I said that I should be most happy to afford him any advice or assistance in my power when- ever he thought it could be useful. -" ..% I' I.-! 214 THE RIGHT HON. CHAKLES GllEY, [Sect. III. •• "". A *■ I lost no time in waitiiia; on the Right Honourable Charles Grey, and was very warmly received. He re- ])eated the assurance of his regret, and trusted that I was satisfied he could not have done otherwise than rc-ap- point Mr. Tucker. I assured him of my full conviction that the step he had taken was not only reasonable, but just, and almost imperative ; that the loss of such a situa- tion, I need not say, was a serious concern to one, uho, with slender means, had a growing family to look up to him for support. He wished very much, he said, for lie considered it due to me, that something should turn up worthy of my acceptance. " But," he added, " I must confess that I see little prospecL at present of being relieved from that condition which my colleague, Mr. Fox, is said to have described to a friend who made ap- plication for some appointment — ' My dear fellow, we are already two in a bed.' I can, therefore, at present only assure you of my good wishes ai 1 inclinations." I made my how, and was retiring, when he called me back. " By the way," he said, " you have been some time in '^^he public service, previous to your appoint- ment to the Admiralty?" " Yes, sir ; I was two years on Lord Macartney's embassy to China, and seven years at the Cape of Good Hope." " I recollect," lie said, "your having been on both, and I have read your account of the Cape with pleasure and profit. I wish you would write down such a memorandum of your services as I can send to Lord Grenville ; I think his Lordship should know them : more I ca^mot say at present." I could not be otherwise than highly gratified by the kind and considerate manner in which Mr. Grey re- ceived and conversed with me, and I lost no time, it may be supposed, in supplying him with the note he II"' I'M Sf.ct. III.] THE ADMIRALTY. 295 required ; and on mentioning the interview to Mr. Marsden, he said, " I am glad of what you tell me ; he has either something in view for you, or is desirous of interesting the Prime Minister in your behalf. I know, from the little he has said to me, that he feels the ungra- cious, but unavoidable step he was compelled to take with regard to you, and that he would not be displeased to liiid an opportunity of making amends." Knowing, however, the situation in which "All the Talents" found themselves placed on assuming office, I was not very sangunie, though still persuading myself there must have been a kind motive for the step now taken by the First Lord of the Admiralty. In the mean time I could only remain quiet, as I had entirely given up all idea of returning to the Cape of Good Hope, and so I told Mr. Windham. It was not long, however, before I received a note from Mr. Grey, enclosing a short letter to him from Lord Grenville, of which the following is a copy : — " Camelfonl House, lOtli Mareli, 1806. " My dear Grey, " I have the pleasure of acknowledging your letter on the subject of Mr. Barrow. The })articular eircunistances of his case appear to entitle him to a proper and favourable consideration ; and I do not see any more eligible mode than that suggested of his pre- senting a memorial to the King in Council. "Yours, &c., (Signed) " Guknville." Fortified by such an opinion from such a quarter, 1 lost no time in drawing up and sending a memorial of „ ■" .■• y 296 THE RIGHT HON. CHAS. GREY (LORD HOWICK). [Skct. III. my services to the King in Council, which, in the usual course, was referred to the Board of Admiralty, to be reported upon by their Lordships ; and the Board, on the suggestion of Mr. Grey (now Lord Ilowiek), re- commended that a pension should be granted of lOUU/. a-year, to commence from the day of my retiring from the Admiralty, and to be abated from any place I might thereafter hold under the Government. This information was conveyed to me by the fol- lowing letter : — " AdmivaUy, Jmie 26tli, 180(5. " Sir, " I delayed answering your letter of the 23rd till the Board should have had an opportunity of de- ciding on the reference from the Council. I have now the pleasure of informing you that a pension of 1000/. a-year is recommended as a proper reward for your long services. " I am, Sir, &c., (Signed) *' IIowick." In gratitude for the kind feeling shown to iiic throughout, I am bound to acknowledge that the treat- ment I received at the hands of Lord IIowick, from first to last, was most indulgent, considerate, and attentive; and that few men I believe would have acted, under all the circumstances, with that promptitude and marked generosity, which he was pleused to bestow on my case. Of what occurred at the Admiralty during the eight months' reign of Lord IIowick I know nothing. It commenced auspiciously by the report of Sir John Duckworth's successful action with a French squadron in the West Indies, the account of which came to the ./" . 1 f> • 10: • * 1. 1 » ^ [v). [Sect, III. Sect. III.] THE ADMIRALTY. 297 Admiralty just fourteen days after his entry on the business of the office, to which he had succeeded by removal from the Foreign Office, to which he had been appointed on the death of Mr. Fox. In April, 180/, he became Earl Grey, and having continued about ciiiht months, he resigned the government of the Navy to Mr. Thomas Grcnville, who remained about five months, when both went out with the rest of the party, Lord Grenville being succeeded by the Duke of Portland. The dissolution of the Grenville Government was rather sudden, an J would appear to have been occa- sioned very much by mismanagement. On the 6th of March, 1807, Lord Grenville in the Lords, and Lord Howick in the Commons, gave notice of their intentions to bring in a bill for the relief of the Roman Catholics. As this measure had always been very obnoxious to the King, prudence at least would seem to have required that His Majesty should have been apprised of such notice being intended. An adjoi;r'iment took place to enable them to do so; they had an audience for this purpose ; but it was too late ; and the following day they received an intimation from Ili? Majesty, that he umst provide himself with other ministers. I r 298 THE EAllL OF MULGRAVE. [Skct. IV. k .. 8i:cTioN IV. Tlic Earl of Mulguavi:. April G, 1807— November 24, 1809. Admiral -Tames Gamuikk. . . .First Navul Lord J. AV". CuoKEK, Esq First Secretary. On the morning of the 5th of April, 1807, while a cart was standing before my door, taking in baggage and some furniture, Admiral Gambier stepped in and said, " Where are you going, Barrow ? — not out of town, I hope ? " I answered, " No : I am just about to take my little sick child to Jenkins's nursery grounds." " Because," said he, " I come to you from Lord j\Iul- grave, who desires to see you to-morrow morning at twelve o'clock, in Wimpole Street; and pray don't fail. I see you arc busy, and so am I — so good bye." lie then left me abruptly. What can Lord Mulgravc want with me ? thought I. Having been some weeks in the country, I knew little or nothing of what was going on in the political Morld, and had only heard some rumours of " All the Talents " being on the eve of retiring ; but of Lord Mulgrave I was utterly ignorant even to what party he belonged. I took care to be in Wimpole Street at the hour appointed ; and, when knocking at the door, my friend Lord Arden, passing by, called out, " I am very glad I" <• Sect. IV. THE ADMIRALTY. 299 to see you, Barrow, at that door," and walked on. On being' shown into his Lordship's room, he said, " You will probahly have heard that the King has been pleased to appoint me First Lord of the Admiralty ; and one of my first acts is to ofter you, as I now do, the re-appointment to the situation from which, in my opinion, you were unjustly removed ; and I hope you will not refuse me." In making my sincere ackn ^w- ledginents for his generous offer to one who was an entire stranger to him, I assured him that nothing could be more gratifying than the prospect of returning to a public situation that I had so much at heart ; and it Mould be my object and my pride to deserve his good opinion. " But," he said, " I think it right to apprise you, that Mr. Marsden wishes to be relieved, and that it will not be in my power to place you in his situation, for the Cabinet has come to a resolution that ilie First Secretary of the Admiralty shall henceforth hold a seat in the House of Commons : and that yester- day ^larsden's successor WtiJ actually named." I begged to assure him that a seat in the House was no point of ambition with mo, and that no consideration \vould induce me to accept one, even if accompanied with the offer of the First Secretaryship of the Admi- ralty. "But, if it be not an improper question, might I inquire confidentially who is the gentleman named to be my colleague ? " "I will tell you, but it must be in strict confidence, for Marsden yet knows nothing of it — it is Mr. Wellesley Pole." I said, " He is an agreeable acquaintance, of great talent for business, and of an active turn of mind, and I am rejoiced in the prospect of having such a coadjutor." He then said, " Mr. Marsden is nearly left alone. v'lj 300 ■■■ i ■. THE EARL OF MULGRAVE. [Sect, IV. » • 'i .. 1 H-'' * without a second Secretary, and he will be very glad of your company as soon as you can make it convenient." My reply was, " I will go to him immediately, and settle with him to he at the Admiralty to-morrow morning at nine o'clock." I did so attend ; and from this day, the 8th of April, 1807, to the '28th of January, 1845, I continued, without intermission, as Second Secretary of the Admiralty, when 1 retired, having completed altogether, from my lirst appoint- ment in that capacity, forty years, under twelve or thir- teen several Naval Administrations, Whig and Torv, including that of the Lord High Admiral, His lioval Highness the Duke of Clarence ; having reason to be- lieve that I have given satisfaction to all and everv one of these Naval Administrations; and I am happy in the reflection, that I have experienced kindness and atten- tion from all. The Catholic Question having turned out the Whig Administration on the 8tli of April, Parliament met pursuant to adjournment, when the new ministry was declared — the Duke of Portland Prime j\linistcr, and Lord JMulgrave First Lord of the Admiralty (having held the ofHce of Foreign Secretary of State in 1805) ; and, on his leaving th.e Admiralty in 1810, he was appointed Master-General of the Ordnance. Lord Mulgrave possessed wit and humour in a considerable degree, and was always most agreeable at his own table ; he was also an acute critic. A friend of Mr. Pitt once asked that Minister how he could he so in- cautious as to let into the cabinet one so very iiuieli disposed to criticifie w hat others said or did ? *' For that very reason," Pitt replied, " that we may be told oi| and enabled to correct, our many blunders." Sect. IV.] THE ADMIRALTY. 301 The war with France was carried on with great activity, and our fleets and detached squadrons Avere evLi'Vwhere successful. The only blot was that miser- able affair of the Dardanelles, under Admiral Sir John Duckworth, who acted chiefly on the instructions or opinions of Mr. Arbuthnot, the ambassador, and lie no doubt followed those of the Government. He prevailed, however, on the Admiral to lie off' with his shi])s at a distance, and to delay, while he negotiated with the Porte ; thus allowing the Turks full time — of which they had sense enough to avail themselves^ — to plant cannon on the walls of the Seraglio, the intended point of attack, and also to extend their fortifications on the shores of the Dardanelles, to annoy, and possibly pre- vent the return ofj our shi})S : Avhereas, had Duckworth folkiwcd his own views, or acted on the advice of Sir Suhiey Smith, he Mould at once, as he had intended, have laid his ships close to the walls of the Seraglio, and battered them down. Sir Sidney Smith even strongly rcconnncnded that they should storm Constantinople, but representations were made against this measure, as belnj;- too severe ; Sir John speaks highly in praise of the advice and services of Sir Sidnev. On his return, the innnense mortars of the batteries threw stone balls of one and a half and two feet, or more, in diameter — one of which, of granite, the Ad- miral says, weighed eight hundred pounds, and they made tremendous havoc in the shi})s they struck. The Windsor Castle had two of her ports battered into one and her mainmast carried away by two of these gigantic granite shot. The Board of Admiralty, returning from a dockyard visitation, paid a flying visit to Sir John Duckworth, at his seat on the river Ex ; and we were much anuised at the siglrt of two of these large globes of ., 11 , , "> •' '" . i ' '." K I I 302 THE EARL OF MULGKAVE, [Skct. IV. IL- stone which crowned the gate-posts of his domain, as trophies of his Lite expedition, on which were inscribed the names of Scstos and Ahi/dos. The administration of " All the Talents," which scut out this ill-fated expedition, had considered the Darda- nelles to be defenceless, and the Turks ignorant and helpless ; but Duckworth's report of the disastrous result, and of the granite shot, must have confouiulod the projectors of it, had they not been driven from the helm before the account of the disasters had reached this country. One of the party, however, derives con- solation " that nothing had been lost to the English character by the failure ; " that ' no intelligent man thought that those who had burst through the redoubt- able Dardanelles were intimidated by the cannon on the mouldering walls of the Seraglio." Intimidated, in- deed ! No intelligent man would have applied such a word, or insinuated that the gallant Duckworth, or any other gallant admiral, could be frightened at the walls of the Seraglio, or any other >valls. Another feat, of a somewhat equivocal nature as to its propriety, but not as to the skill and management of its execution, fell to the lot of Lord Mulgrave to direct; for the perfornumcc of which, as to the naval part, he conferred the command on one of the Naval Lords of his Board — Admiral James Gambier; and J^ord Cathcart was appointed to head the troops. This was the expedition to Copenhagen, to get possession, by ne- gotiation or otherwise, of the Danish fleet, in order to prevent its falling into the hands of France, which, by in- controvertible testimony, it was proved to have been the full intention of Buonaparte to accomplish, and which, owing to the obsequious and timid conduct of the Prince Koyal and his minister, he would have effected without ■■■. 1,: , ' ■ i» ?i:cT. IV.] THE ADMIRALTY. 303 difficulty, or even a show of resistance. Every attempt to warn the anthorities of Denmark of the treacher- ous conduct of Fraii'ce, and every proposal of assist- ance, was without effect, one of which was that of Eiiglaiul's receiving and securing for her the safe custody of her fleet, and thus to defeat the great ohject of Buonaparte. Every attempt at negotiation having in vain been tried, the English cabinet decided on secur- ing the Danish ships at any rate. Admiral Gambier put to sea, and, being compelled to bombard Copen- liagen, after the refusal of the Danes to admit him to a conference, he landed. On the lOth of August the Ad- miral writes, " I have a sad scene before me at this moment — the town of Copeidiagen in flames in several places, from our bombardment; and I am sorry to see the great church is destroyed. This is the third day ; and if the governor holds out much longer, and we do not get possession by assault, the whole town nmst be destroyed ; which the Dane will consider equivalent to his honour." On the 8th of September the whole fleet was in oui' possession, all their naval stores and equipments shipped ; and about the end of October the Mhole arrived in England. But another expedition, of a far more extensive scale, and much less successful, was set on foot in the year 1S09, which terminated the administration of Lord Mulgrave as First Lord of the Admiralty. Early in the spring of 1809, preparations were made for a secret expedition, which in the beginning of August had assembled in the Downs, to an extent unparalleled in the course of the war. The whole time of Mr. Wcllesley Pole, for several months, had been occupied 111 superintending the preparations, and in seeing that 804 THE EAia- OF MULGRAVi:. tn [«i:cT. IV. i every equipment, iiavnl and military, had l)ccn pro- vided, and of the best kind. JJetbrc his appoiiitmciit to the Admiralty, he had, hy liis attention and activitv brought the small arm department of the OrdiKnicu td a degree of perfeetion it had never before attained, and the Ordnance department generally was greatly jm. proved by his skill and vigilance. The troops, when assembled near the port of endjarkation, amouiitotl to more than 40,000 men ; and the naval part of the ex- pedition was composed of 39 sail of the line, 30 frigate?, sloops, gun-boats, bombs, and other species of small craft without number; and not less in the whole than 100,000 men were embarked. This great naval arinii- ment was placed under the command of Sir Iiichanl Strachan, and the military force (to the astonishiiioiit of all) under the Earl of Chatham. Thousands of spectators were assendjJed at the several places in the neighbourhood of the Downs ; but no one could guess at the destination of such a splendid arma- ment; the general opinion seemed to be that it was intended to make an impression on the coast of France; but, to the surprise of all, ai'tci" it had sailed, aiitl nnt before, the discovery was made that its destination was the Scheldt. It was, in fact, intended to sack Antwerp, to get possession of the immense stores which the Froneli had there accunmlated, and to seize or destroy the French ships in that part ot the river. The contriver of this scheme was said to be — as in- deed it turned out to be — Sir Home Popham ; who, by his insinuating and plausible address, had prevailed on Lord Castlereagh, then Secretary of State for War and Colonies, to undertake it ; and no doubt the more readily, being assured by the projector of the cer- tainty of success : and to Popham, of course, were cn- ,i,ii: !ri!^! ! • . '■* Skct. IV.] THE ADMIRALTY. 305 trusted the arrangeiueiits for the landing and debarka- tion of the forces; while Sir Richard was to conduct the naval operations. A day or two previous to the fleet getting under way, Sir Home Fophani called at the Admiralty, and pledged himself, in the most solemn manner, without hesitation or the admission of a doubt, to AVellesley Pole and me, that, fro . his knowledge of the Scheldt, and every part thereof, he was perfectly })repared to conduct the forces up that river as far as Sandfleet, where the troops would be immediately landed, and would reach Antwerp after a short march ; while the necessary number of ships should })roceed by that branch of the river which turns off and leads to Antwerp. The first despatch received at the Admiralty put an end to every favourable expectation, and extinguished every hope of a successful issue. Sir Home, however, congratulated himself on having secured the fleet from the danger of a gale of wind, which blew opposite to the mouth of the Scheldt, by carrying it safely into the Room -pot (Cream-pot) ; and that Lord William Stuart, with ten frigates, had been sent past Flushing up the Scheldt, to reconnoitre, in spite of the gale of wind blowing opposite the mouth ; a more absurd and mis- chievous measure than this could not well have been conceived ; for it was the obvious and sure means of spreading over the whole country the alarm of the expedition \ and was in fact fatal to it, by rousing the energetic character of the French (always on the alert), who had time to throw such a force into Ant- werp as bid defiance to any attempt of ours. In the mean time. Sir Home Popham, the gallant projector, with a great part of the fleet, lay safe and sound, bask- X M 806 TlIK KAUL OF MULGBAVK [Skct. IV. /■ ■ ' • ! i- ;!''■ ; if • ♦ ing at anchor in tho Cream -pot; and Lord Cliatham, equally cool and tranciuil, at his head-quarters in the city of Mi(hUeburf?. For want of soniethiufj; else to do, the army bombarded Flush inf?, assisted by some of tlie ships of the line and small vessels, and compelled it to capitulate. Towards the end of autumn, for the sake of a little mischief^ they bcf^an to demolish the works and the basin of Flushinf? ; and, at t;ie end of Decem- ber, the island of Waleheren was evacuated, but not before its infectious, destructive, and debilitating fever had thinned the ranks of our men ; and the disease was brought home to P^ngland, where its effects are not entirely eradicated at this day. All further idea of proceeding up the Scheldt beiiifr abandoned, Lord Chatham took the wise determination of returning to England, with the greater j)art of the troops, leaving the rest on that horrible island Waleheren to take the fever at leisure, of which one-half fell f5iek and died, and many who returned home suifered a regular annual attack of it for many years. An iiujiiiry was amiounced to be instituted in the House of Com- mons into the conduct of the leaders of the expedition; and Sir Home Popham, being previously asked by the Secretary of the Admiralty what defence he meant to set up in the House of Commons ? said, " Don't be alarmed ; depend upon it, when I get up to sjK'ak I shall be so intensely listened to that you may hear a pin drop." He got up, carried the expedition trium- phantly till it met with a gale of wind — and, " Sir, without the loss or damage of a single ship, I anchored the whole securely in the Room-pot." The security of a fleet of men-of-war afloat in the Cream-pot, raised such a general shout of laughter, that poor Sir Home's <r.n: W.] THE ADMIHALTV. 307 speech slinrcd very nmch tlie fate of tlie luckless expe- dition. In i'iu'.t, seridus as lad been the iiiisiMnnaf^e- iiieiitof'an expedition whieh, under proper coninianders, (•oulfl hardly have failed, the ineiiiory of its blunders vas suffered by the good-natured public to be buried ill something like a joke. I'opliain was oidy laughed at — Strachan upbraided —and Chatham condemned ere, indeed, he had set out: and the jMiblic, in the midst of misfortunes, the loss of men by that horrible Walcheren fever, the waste of the national resources, and the blot on our national cha- racter, permitted itself to be amused by a repetitiou of the following epigram : — " Lord Cliatliain, with his sword undrawn, Stood waiting for Sir Hiciiard Strachan ; Sir Richard, longing to be at 'em, Stood waiting for the Earl of Ciiatiiani." x2 I-: 308 THE KIGIIT HON. CHARLES YORKE. [Skct. V. Section V. The khjkt Hon. Charles Yorke. November, 1809 — March, 1812. Sir Richard Bickerton. . . .First Naval Lord. John Wilson Choker First Secretary. •11 On the change of administration about the end of the year 1809, when the Eight Hon. Spencer Perceval be- came Prime Minister, Mr. Charles Yorke was appointed First Lord of the Admiralty on the 29th of November of that year. He was a man who stood high in public estimation, as a member of the House of Commons, and as a private gentleman hidued with the best.ua- lities of head and heart. When Secretary at War he had proved himself not inferior in debate to Fox, Grey, Windham, Sheridan, and the rest of that for- midable phalanx which was supposed to have no other individual rival but Mr. Pitt. Mr. Yorke, however, after a fierce opposition from that party, througli a series of long debates, carried his plan for the esta- blishment and consolidation of the volunteer system. He reprobated, with honest indignation, and boldly denounced, that un-English and anti-national doc- trine, held forth by some of the Whig leaders and inculcated in the Radical papers of the day, that Eng- land was no match for France — that the French army, led by Buonaparte, was invincible- -and that it would It , i A h. ■ -i •■ 1^ Sect. V.] THE ADMIRALTY. 309 he in vain for our inferior army any longer to contend afiainst it. Some even went so far as to recommend that humiliating position of England as suing for peace to her niost inveterate foe. Mr. Yorke, however, stemmed this outrageous tide of humiliation and destruction, m a strain of indig- nant animation deprecating such unworthy feelings put forth by persons calling themselves Englishmen ; and, roused by an ardent spirit of patriotism, boldly declared that such doctrines were utterly false ; and that he hoped — nay, was sure — England would never so de- grade he ex herself as to succumb to France. Well might m. " This England never did, and never shall, Lie at the proud foot of a coiuiueror ! " — much less at that of a heartless usurper, the offspring of revolution, who had, by violence and tyranny, usurped the sovereignty of France. Some paltry objections were made in the House to the question of ways and means for carrying on the war. Mr. Yorke scouted such mean and selfish consi- derations, declaring a willingness on his part " to pay the last shilling he was worth, and to shed the last drop of his blood, to defend the country against the designs of France." "And so he would," said a friend to me, who h?.d long and intimately known him ; " such is the sierling patriotism of Charles Yorke, that if any per- sonal sacrifice were demanded for the salvation of the country, no matter what it might be, Charles Yorke would be the first man to volunteer it; nay, I verily believe that, like another Curtius, Yorke, to save his country, would not hesitate to repeat the Roman's example of plunging into the gulf." i;^:ij ^^^^'i^^asssnBBi 310 THE RIGHT HON. CHARLES YORKE. [Skct. V. In all respects, Mr. Yorke fully redeemed the pledge he had given in coming into Parliament as au un- fettered man ; and he took an early occasion of stating in his place, that he reprobated the doctrine of Members of Parliament being guided by the " in- structions of their constituents," as being unworthy and unconstitutional. Witli such independent feelings, Mr. Yorke mig-ht be considered as one well qualified to fill the important and responsible situation of First Lord Commissioner of the Admiralty. It is a situation that requires great energy and thought in the decision, and promptitude in the execution, of measures concern- ing naval operations, whether offensive or defensive ; of vigilance, in being prepared for either; of know- ledge in the selection of officers of approved talent and experience for the command of fleets, and even of single ships. But there is yet another, and a no less important and responsible duty, which ought to attach to every First Lord of the Admiralty, and which indeed has, fortunately, had a commencement — and that is, to afford opportunities and to hold out encouragement for creating well-qualified officers, by the institution of means whereby naval cadets, midshipmen, mates, and junior officers may be instructed in the practical and scientific parts of their profession ; and to give pro- motion, the greatest reward they can receive, to such as are reported to excel. Every First Lord of the Admiralty, under whom I have served, has felt the day appointed for receiving officers to be the most painful and distressing part of his duty. He has on that day to listen to their numerous tales of distress and disappointment, and too frequently ■J- t Skci'. V.l THE ADMIRALTY. 311 to listen to them without the possibility of affording relief. Few, I believe, experienced this painful duty more strongly than Mr. Charles Yorke, who was ever ready to afford his compassionate attention to cases of distress, a'.id to relieve them when practicable. In the first year of Mr. Yorke's administration of the afltiirs of the navy, our successes by sea were frequent, and some of them important. Indeed, a week scarcely passed over that did not bring intelligence of the cap- ture of frigates, corvettes, sloops, or gun-brigs, belong- ing to the French, the Danes, and other hostile powers ; of the capture of islands, and the destruction of batteries and armed vessels stationed for their protection : the islands of St. Eustatia, St. Martin, and Saba ; the island of Rodriguez, near that of Bourbon — respecting which Commodore Rowley says, " a valuable colony has been added to His Majesty's dominions, containing upwards of 100,000 souls." In 1811 the island of Lissa was taken by Conunodore Iloste, defended by four frigates and gun-boats, two of which were taken, one burnt, and " one stole away and escaped." In this year, also, the acquisition of the magnificent island of Java crowned the British arms — and the spice islands of Amboyna and Banda, the islands of France and Bourbon, also fell into our possession. It required a luan of Mr. Yorke's capacious mind and firmness of character to overcome the long-rooted prejudices that prevailed among the master-shipwrights in all the dockyards, by which the new system of add- ing strength to the ships of the British Navy, invented by Mr. (afterwards Sir Robert) Seppings, was thwarted and opposed; and the inventor himself so tormented, that nothing short of the energy and firmness of Mr. 312 THE RIGHT HON. CHAHLES YORKE. [Sect, V. ^ ■ Yorke could have succeeded in carrying through a system which he, and every unprejudiced person, clcarlv foresaw would be the means of giving strength and per- manence to the sound condition of the Britir^h Navy. " At length, however," says Seppings, " a superior power bore down p\\ opposition ; the system was adopted, and found to succeed." And it has succeeded, and the only improvement it has undergone is that of changing his wooden diagonal braces into iron ones. The next great point which Mr. Yorke succeeded in carrying into execution was that of the Breakwater, which had been planned and designed for erection across the mouth of Plymouth Sound, to render it a secure and excellent roadstead for a fleet of ships of war. This great national work had been recom- mended to Lord Grey, when at the head of the Ad- miralty, by the Earl St. '^^incent, who had himself^ when presiding at the Board, fixed his attention on Torbay for the same purpose, and had a survey made to ascertain its fitness. If, however, such a work should be constructed across that bay, the cost would be enormous. In bringing this important measure as regarded Ply- mouth Sound before the House of Commons, Mr. Yorke, by the clear and powerful statement with which he introduced his proposal for commencing the opera- tion, silenced the few who, for the sake of opposition, foreboded ruin to the Sound as an anchorage, after an endless expense had been incurred ; and, fortified by his own sound judgment, and by arguments in which he was supported and backed by *he opinion of Mr. John Ilennic as to the propriety and the sue- 1' ,*• ■■ * .Ml'' I * •> Skct. V.' THE ADMIRALTY. 313 cessful issue of the undertaking, and also by all the naval men and others connected with the navy in the House, he carried through his measure most trium- phantly. Mr. Yorke, however, met with opposition from a quarter whence he least expected it. The vast prepara- tions which were making in France, and the activity displayed by Buonaparte in the naval department, re- quired additional energy and consequently increased expenditure in our own ; and Mr. Yorke, after due con- sideration of the force that he deemed expedient to ke^p on foot, caused the navy estimates to be prepared accordingly. One day, on returning from a cabinet council, he sent for me into his room, and in a flurried manner said, " Barrow, it is time for me to quit the Admiralty, and I shall do so very soon. If Mr. Spen- cer Perceval conceives i,hat he knows better what ex- penditure is rev|uired for preserving the efficiency of the navy than the Board of Admiralty, which is responsible for it — if he persists in acting upon his present notions, I shall at once tell him he must get some other person more ready than I shall be to follow his suggestions. He tells me I must considerably cut down my esti- mate ; I told him it had been well considered, and that I should not attempt to make any reduction ; and that when I move it in the House I shall willingly ex- plain and assign my reasons for every increased item therein." I observed to him, that Mr. Perceval, in his capacity of Prime Minister, could hardly venture to take upon himself the task of raising objections against the force which the Lords of the Admiralty had pronounced to be necessary; but that I supposed it was in his character ■'. J'l 314 THE RIcHT HON. CHARLES YOHKE. [Sect. V. r III ■Ih> . of Chancellor of the Exchequer that he demurred on the score of expense. " On this score," ?aid Mr. Yorke, " I shall not yield, and the estimate shall remain and be produced in the state it is." I left him very much agitated ; and was quite sure, from his manner and the firmness of his character, that he would either carry his point or throw up his situation in disgust. Two days after this I understood from him that the Chancellor of the Exchequer had satisfied him the objection he had made was a mere question of money, for which he was responsible, and desired that the estimate might stand as originally framed. When brought before the House, nothing could be more con- vincing to all parties than the reasons given by ]\Ir. Yorke for the increase under present circumstances. Admiral Sir Charles Pole said he had never heard so clear and satisfactory a statement as that of the First Lord of the Admiralty, and he thought there was as little to observe on the present estimates (1811) as on any that were ever produced in that House. Mr, Yorke took every occasion of noticing the gratification he received, from witnessing the aft'ectiou and regard which the House always entertained for the naval ser- vice ; and it was no less gratifying to know that the greater part of the woiiO placed dependence on the British flag for protection. In referring to my ' Life of Admiral Lord Howe,' from whose estimate for building and repairing the fleet the minister reduced 150,000/., — "Such parsi- mony," ^ there observed, " for it is not economy when applied to such an object, is the worst policy that could be pursued. It was that, among other things, that drove Lord Howe from the helm of naval affairs ; and 4 ■ir^ij'^; -' '' ii*S;:ii;,Lt:' * \ M.r T. v.] THE ADMIRALTY. 315 ill later times it had very nearly produced the same effect on one of the ablest, most intelligent, and most honourable men that ever sat at the head of the Board of Admiralty — j\Ir. Charles Yorke — who threatened to resign his office because the minister would not con- sent to grant for naval purposes what he considered necessary to prepare and preserve the fleet in that state of efficiency, which the honour and the interests of the country demanded." But I took occasion, some thirty-five years ago, M-hen a discussion was going on as to the comparative advan- tage of having a naval officer or a civilian at the head of the Board of Admiralty, to gi\ e a sketch of the character of the Bight Hon. Charles Yorke, who at that time presided. I then declared " my firm conviction " —and I never had occasion to alter a word of it — " that if an unceasing attention to the duties of his office, an intimate acquaintance with the naval history of his country, a vigorous understanding, a manly cast of character, with a disposition to conciliate, and an anxious desire to promote the interests, the comfort, and the honour of those brave men to whom the best defence of the nation is entrusted — if qualifications such as these can be said to hold out a fair promise, then we may with confidence affirm that the lustre of the British navy will not be tarnished under his management ; but that its energies will be maintained, and its power exerted to the satisfaction of the country." If indeed such men could always be selected to fill the important situation of First Lord of the Admiralty as Mr. Charles Yorke, no question need arise as to his being a naval officer or a civilian ; the one is qualified by education (always supposing that education to have 316 THE JJIGIIT HON. CHARLES YORKE. [Sect. V. ^ • '5/ . - .... If '■f" « M been extensive, sound, and proper) to embrace all kinds of subjects ; the other principally confined to one and that a practical subject — an ini])ortant qualifica- tion, no doubt, but a very limited one, and amply supplied by the constitution of the Board of Adniiraltv, which gives to the presiding Lord the assistance of two flag-officers (sometimes three), two captain.s, and one civilian, who has generally been in some jmblic situation, and who, with most of his colleagues, holds a seat in the House of Commons. After all, we shall probably arrive at the proper conclusion, by consider- ing personal character and mental accomplishments to constitute the best qualification to fill an office, on the able and honest management of which depend the fortunes and the happiness of so many thousand families, in every rank of life, engaged in the naval ser- vice of their country, from the flag-officer, through all ranks, to the common seaman. Nothing so deeply affected the sensitive mind of Mr. Yorke as the many unfortunate disasters that occurred by the losses of ships and their crews from shipwreck in the latter part of the yoar 1811. The 'Saldanlia' frigate, commanded by the Hon. Captain Pakcnham, was lost off" Lough Swilley, on the north-west coast of Ireland. The 'Hero,' of 74 guns. Captain Newman, off' the Texel, where she went to pieces, and every soul on board perished. But the most melancholy of all was that of the ' St. George,' of 98 guns, bearing the flag of Admiral Eeynolds, which had suffered nuich and was dismasted in the Belt, in the November gales. Partially refitted, she left the Baltic, accompanied by ilie 'Defence,' of 74 guns, commanded by Captain Atkins, on the morning of the 24th of December, and, a gak Sect, v.] THE ADMIRALTY. 317 coming on, both ships were stranded on the western coast of Jutland. Six seamen only escaped on a wreck from the 'Defence,' and eleven from the 'St. George;' and the last man that left this ship, on a piece of wreck, on the evening of the 25th, reported that Admiral Keynolds and Captain Guion were lying dead beside each other, on the lee side of the quarter-deck, and that above 500 of the crew had shared the same fate; about 150 were still alive when he left, but none of them were ever more heard of The ' St. George ' was supposed to be in a state which disabled her to beat off a lee- shore in a gale of wind ; yet the ' Defence ' was in a fit condition to have made good her course ; but the brave and generous Atkins, it would seem, could not suffer the Admiral to drift alone, and determined resolutely to stand by him, which he did till both perished. It might be mistaken gallantry, as it car- ried with it the sacrifice of so many lives. Captain Atkins was Second Lieutenant of the ' Lion ' on her voyage to China, already alluded to, I being then his coadjutor, in taking and working out lunar observa- tions. So sensibly was Mr. Yorke affected by this dreadful catastrophe that it occasioned a violent fit of the gout, which disqualified him from attending the office, from which indeed he was altogether soon relieved by a change of ministers, and by the appointment of the second Lord Viscount Melville, early in the spring of 1812, to fill the situation of First Lord of the Admi- I'alty. Mr. Yorke's illness was not mitigated by an ill- natured and unfounded report, that the loss of these great ships was occasioned by the Admiralty having i .... ■ r ■ '* '* , .f f :,|*ri:|r.f 818 THE RIGHT HON. CHARLES YOUKE. [Sect. \\ kept them out in the Baltic much too late ; tho.se who spread it not knowing, or rather not choo.sing to know that the Admiral had a discretionary power U, l-ave the Baltic whenever he thought proper ; and, if 1 recol- lect right, a caution was inserted in his instructions not to remain in the Baltic to a late period of the season. On taking leave of the Admiralty, Mr. Yorkc said to me, "I hope you will not Ibrget Bruton Street, hut that you will let me have the pleasure of seeing vou frequently — ihe more frequently the more agrecahle: I meau to re. lain at home quietly on Sunday after- noons, and as many of them as you can bestow on a gouty and grumbling man will be a great charity." I assured him that nothing would give me greater plea- sure than to see him frequently ; and that as 1 was in the constant habit of passing an hour or so in the early part of Sunday afternoons at Spencer House, where Lady Spencer was always ready to see her visitors in her snug little boudoir, I should be too glad to make it ill my way to Bruton Street. From this time I dedi- cated a great part of the afternoons of Sundays to Lady Spencer and Mr. Yorke : of the former I need not sav her wit and lively conversation were courted by all; and with respect to the latter, I was his constant visitor from the period of his rijtirement from public life to his last illness, and can safely say that, in all my intercourse with him, a more intelligent and agreeable man I have never met with ; one whose conversation was more lively and instructive, and more full of information regarding; the news and topics of the day ; always delighted to hear of the successful exertions of the uavy, and that Sect. V.] THE ADMIHALTY. 319 all was goiiif? on smoothly and pleasantly at the Admi- ralfv. " Melville," he used to say, " is a thoroughly good man, not wanting in sound sense and judgment, united with their concomitants, propriety and steadi- ness of conduct." Mr. Yorke was, however, disposed to be exceedingly low spirited when attacked by a severe fit of the gout, or when any domestic calamity occurred. The awful and somewhat uncertain, or unascertained, cause of the death of his brother, Sir Joseph Yorke, who was a great favourite, shook him much. The boat in which he was sailing was last seen with her sails up, and was no doubt upset by a sudden squall, and all in her pe- rished. She was not far from the shore, and Sir Joseph and his companion were both good swimmers. Mr. Yorke caused every possible inquiry to be i ade regard- ing the accident, and as it appeared the storm was accompanied by violent thunder and lightning, the only conclusion to be drawn was, that the boat and all in her had been struck by the lightning. He had a very strong affection for his brother, and was often anmsed by his eccentricities and droll expressions ; but was greatly distressed on one occasion, when his ship was in a state of mutiny, and an investigation was held into the conduct of the crew and some of the officers, who were found to be a most irregular and mutinous set. Sir Joseph himself was driven almost to madness by a marine lieutenant threatening to bring him before a court-martial. He had then a seat at the Board of Admiralty. This officer came to the office to com- plain, which made Sir Joseph outrageous; and Mr. Croker and myself did all we could to pacify him, and to assure him that the lieutenant was not ^m ?l-i .• ''. 320 TilE KIUllT HON. ClIAULES VOHKE. [Skct. V. worth his notice. These bursts, however, were but occasional. Sir Joseph Yorke had nothing of gloominess, or de- spondency, or ill-hunionr, in his character ; he was for the most part cheerful and full of pleasantry. ^Ve were in fact a merry Board-room group : Sir George AVarrender and Sir Joseph Yorke were of themselves a host of fun, and Croker and I did our best to keep it up. Yorke abounded in odd expressions, borrowed or spoken at random. To Warrender hr would say, " Because thy name is George I'll call thee Peter." When he gave up his seat at the Board he told the House of Commons he had turned his stern to the Admiralty : and he once gravely commenced a speech with, " Mr. Speaker, it has long been a dis- puted point among philosophers which is the greatest of two evils, ' a smoking chimney or a scolding wife,'" But one of the best off-hand things he said was at the expense of poor Sir Robert Se})pings : this offieer had been on the water one very cold day, and was seized with so violent a tooth-ache as to cause him to land on Tower Hill, and run into the first tooth- drawer's shop that he met with ; but the clumsy operator not only eased him of his tooth, but carried with it a slice of the jaw. The poor fellow, haviii»: wrapped up his head, was walking in a deplorablf state over Tower Hill, when he met Sir Joseph Yorke, who hailed him with " Well, Bob, what's the matter with you?" On hearing his pitiful story, lorke said, " Why, Bob, knowing that your jaw was but a weak stick of timber, why didn't you take the pre- caution of clapping on one of your diagonal braces to strengthen it ? " Seppings could not forbear laughing 'V ' ... i;' ('• .iif:!l!-:i .(;,■,/:•. Sect. V.J THE ADMIKALTY. 321 i;i the midst of liis toniiciit ut the oddity of* the asso- ciiition. Mr. Yorke was an excellent classic. I frequently oil a Sunday visit found him with a copy of Homer on tiie tahle, and sometimes with a Greek Testament open, and an Kngli.sh Testament hy it. The first time I noticed this, he said to me, " You must not suppose I iun refreshing my Greek, or learning it. I havc^ often suspected that certain passages in our Englisii translation are improperly rendered, and when these occur I always compare them with the original, and generally find them, to say the least, loosely trans- l^^^d." He was fond of studying ancient and modern '•y, and read most of tlu; publications of the day. 110 was well versed in the historical parts of the Old Testament ; and told me he once made an attempt to stndy the Hebrew language, with a view of reading the Bible in the original, but found it was too late in life to master it, and therefore gave it up. lie asked me one day if I had looked at the extra- ordinary adventures of Sir Edward Seaward, by Miss Jane Porter, who professes to have possessed the ori- ginal manuscript. I said I had not; but that as he praised it, and thought it a true and curious narrative, I would look into it ; the next time I paid my usual visit I told him it was a mere romance, in imita- tion of 'Robinson Crusoe,' and neither more nor less than uumingled fiction, from first to last, sprinkled with many pious reflections, and assuming a solemn and sacred character. Mr. Y^orke said, " If it is a fiction,!, and many others more sagacious than myself, have been taken in." I told him, that as a date has been given when the extraordinary events are said to have Y 322 THE RIGHT HON. CHARLES YORKE. [Sect.V, happc. j(l (from 1733 to 1749), it was easy to prove that no such events ever had taken place ; that no names mentioned, not even that of the titled narrator hiniselfj ever had existence ; that there neither was, nor is, any village named Awbrey within twenty miles of Bristol, of which Mr. Seaward and his wife (Goldsmith) are said to be natives ; that no such bankers were in London as are mentioned; no such hotel as that where he and Lady Seaward lodged ; nay mr>re, that there is not and never was an island at or near the spot (fortunately the latitude and longitude are given) where he was ship- wrecked, and where he lived a la mode de Crusoe ; and there can be but little doubt that Miss Jane Porter, who says she received the manuscript from the representative of the respected writer, is the sole founder and represen- tative of the family of the Seawards. Mr. Yorke said he wished I would go more into detail ; my reply was, I will prove to you all and more than I have now ad- vanced in the next number of the Quarterly Review.* If Miss Jane Porter had not in so solemn a manner pledged herself to have received the manuscript from a friend of Sir Edward Seaward (no such knight having ever existed), she would have gained unqualified praise for her ingenuity of invention, for the moral and religi- ous sentiments in which the narrative abounds, and for the beautiful and affecting language in which they arc expressed. Mr. Yorke, towards the end of his life, lived much in retirement, but was at all times pleased to receive the visits of a few old friends. * * Quarterly Review,' vol. xlviii. p. 480 — Sir Edward Sea- ward's Narrative, &c. Mr. Yorke was fully satisfied that I liail proved it to be a mere fiction. Sect. VI.] THE ADMIRALTY. 323 Section VI. Robert, Lord Viscount Melville. March 25, 1812— April 30, 1827. sed to receive Admiral G. Johnstone Hope First Naval Lord. John Wilson Choker First Secretary. On the retirement of Mr. Charles Yorke, the Viscount Melville, who had succeeded to the title on the death of his father, the preceding year, was nominated to the high station of First Lord of the Admiralty on the 25th of March, 1812 ; the Earl of Liverpool being appointed Prime Minister, in the vacancy occasioned by the atro- cious assassination of the Right Hon. Spencer Perceval, ill May, 1812, in the lobby of the House of Conm-ons. During the persecution of his Lordship's father, carried on as it was with all the rancour and bitterness of party hostility, the conduct of the son was viewed by all, po- litical foes as well as by friends, with approbation and applause : and he continued, during the long period he remained in the office of Admiralty, to sustain the character of a steady, well-conducted, right-judging man, of whom it may truly be said, " He never made an enemy, or lost a friend." In the year following that of his appointment, Lord Melville, perceiving that one great source of naval ex- penditure was in the dockyards, of which the Admiralty V2 'm:r ■, ■. I i I • ' 324 ROBERT, LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sect. VI. had but an imperfect knowledge, derived from the ge- neral heads of the estimates, and from the Navy Board, by whom they were made up, determi)ied to make annual visitations to the yards, in order to get in- formation on the spot of the details of expense, and generally how it was incurred. He therefore, in the year 1813, made his fir.st visit to each of the dock- yards ; a proceeding which had been discontinued (with the single exception of one by Lord St. Vincent) since the administration of Lord Sandwich. All the reductions that were made during Lord Melville's and the Lord High Admiral's administrations were in fact made in consequence of these visitations; and not always in accordance with the opinion of the civil authorities of the Navy. Yet these reductions, though carried to a great extent, were made without infringin"' on the quantity or the quality of the works to be per- formed. On each of these visitations I accompaiiied his Lordship, and some of the Board, and made such a number of notes and remarks, that the visitation-book is among the most voluminous in the records of the Admiralty. Lord Melville continued to execute the office of First Lord of the Admiralty fv;r a period of more than twice the number of years of any other First Lord on record, except Lord Sandwich, whose two administrations amounted to twelve years ; whereas the two of Lord Melville were equal to seventeen years. He first caiiie in on the eve of one of the most eventful, busy, and brilliant periods of the Revolutionary War, as far as regarded the continental operations of the army, under the Duke of Wellington, who, after a series of splendid battles and as maiiy victories, drove the French arniios y ' ... 4il\.'f>- ■:>t SKrr. VI.] THE ADMIRALTY. 325 out of Spain and Portugal, and completed the final overthrow of Buonaparte, and his transportation to St. Helena in the year 1815. In all these exploits it is true that the navy acted but as an auxiliary, though a very necess ary, and, it may be said, an indispensable Olio. But powerful fleets were not called for : they had already completed their task, in the destruction of the Dutch fleet at Camperdown, the French fleet at the Nile, and the combined French and Spanish fleets at Trafalgar. Still, however, a new, a concealed, though not per- haps altogether an unprovoked, enemy sprang up, in a quarter not much to be expected — and therefore, on our part, unprepared in the kindandquality of weapons to be engaged in the conflict. On the IStli of June, 1812, the North Americans declared war against Great Britain ; not, indeed, before they had secretly de- spatched a squadron for the capture or destruction of the return Jamaica merchant fleet, or of any other English vessels it should fall in with. Thus taken by surprise, several of our small vessels of war were captured by the large American frigates, which were designedly underrated ; that is to say, one of their mis-named 44-gun frigates was equal in size and power to one of our ships of 60 guns. Originally they were modelled and rated after ours, but, for a special purpose which they had in view, they increased their size and power, and diminished their rating ; their object being — for it could be no other — to have the credit of taking an enemy of a nominal equal force, but in reality of a far inferior one; or, as they »vere not ashamed to say, " their ships would be superior to any single European frigate of the usual dimensions." In short, ev.ery •i' 1 - ■ / : K' ■i'1 •' 326 ROBERT, LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sect. VI. frigate and sloop that engaged the same clas&c^, hi/ name, of the English, were superior to ours in guns, in men, and in tonnage. Take, for example, the * Endy- mion,' which captured the ' President :' — Endymion. President. Broadside metal in pounds . . . 676 916 ^ , , f Men 319 472 Complement | ^^^ 3? 5 346 477 Tonnage 1277 1533 And the ' Shannon,' which took the ' Chesapeake :'— Shannon. Chesapeake. Broadside metal 538 590 (Men 306 384 Complement j ^^^^ 34 7 330 391 Size in tons 1066 U35 Thus also the ' Guerriere,' when captured by the * Constitution,' had — 517 weight of metal against 768; a «rew of 263 against 468 ; and her size 1034 tons against 1533. So also in the sloops and smaller vessels engaged, nominally of the same size, the Americans were in- variably of superior force. But that accurate cind industrious historian Mr. James, from whose ' Naval Occurrences ' the above is taken, has given a detailed list of all captured ships (from frigates downwards) made by each belligerent, consisting of the British national cruisers captured or destroyed, and those of America, with the forces of each. *• Sect. VI.] THE ADMIRALTY. 327 Numbers captured. Guns. Comple- ments. Tons. English had .... Americans had . . . 20 64 530 660 2,751 2,994 10,273 14,848 Balance for England E.-f 44 E.-130 S:.-243 E.-4,575 I deemed it proper to extract this statement from unquestioned authority, knowing that there are minds so constituted, as to reject the strongest proof of facts when they militate against their preconceived opinions or wishes, or do not coincide with their party views. Thus, for instance, Lord Darnley, in the face of authentic and of official accounts to prove our success over the enemy, boldly declared, in his assumed supe- rior knowledge of naval au'airs, in the House of Lords, and in the presence of Lord Melville, that he found no cause for congratulation ; that while our military reputation was • raised to the highest pitch, our naval reputation had sunk, and that victory was on the enemy's side, in actions between vessels of the same class : in which bold and unfounded assertion it is cha- ritable to suppose that Lord Darnley was merely mis- taken, as the plain statement of facts by Lord Melville must have satisfied him. His Lordship stated in reply, that, " without answer- ing to such general and declamatory charges, he would ask to what distinct failure the allusion was made ? The Americans had numerous seamen, and a multitude of privateers ; against these means of annoyance, the protection given to our trade would supply the best answer. We had now 20,000 American seamen pri- soners of war — we had captured more than 200 ships -1 1' m:\^. 328 ROBERT, LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sfxt. VI •• •« ^. •»■' of war and armed vessels, and taken 900 other vessels — we had captured 94 running ships and 38 stragglers: and the whole number of our coasting trade taken by them was eleven. And yet the noble Lord asserted that when our ships of war met with an equal force of the enemy, they were always beaten. Lord Darnley, how- ever, was here again speaking at random, and therefore incorrectly." It may be as well to record, what indeed may be considered now as generally known, a few facts to con- vince Lord Darnley and others that our navy was not so fallen as he represented it. In August, 1814, lleai- Admiral Cockburn, on opening out the reach above Pig Point with his gun-boats, discovered Commodore Barney's broad pendant in a large sloop, with a tlotilla of a long line of boats astern of her. The Rear- Ad- miral's boats proceeded rapidly to the attack, but, on Hearing the flotilla, the sloop with the broad pendant was observed to be on fire, and soon blew up ; the seventeen boats that composed the flotilla were perceived to be also on fire, having trains laid to their magazines ; sixteen of them blew up, the remaining one was taken: thus perished this vaunted flotilla, without an attempt to save it. Immediately after this it was decided to attack Washington, the capital. In the first instance. General Ross, with his little army, marched to attack Bladens- burg. The enemy was observed on a height above the town ; and the first operation was to make a dash at him, when he fled in every direction, leaving behind him ten pieces of cannon, with a number of killed and wounded, among the latter Commodore Barney. From this place our little army proceeded towards Washing- •Iv: ^ Sect. VI.] THE ADMIRALTY. 329 ton on the 24th, but it was dark before they reached that city. Some officers, without any troops, after entering the town, were fired upon from the Capitol and two other houses ; these were almost immediately stormed by the troops, which had now entered, were taken possession of^ and set on fire : afi;er which the town submitted. On taking possession, the President's palace, the Treasury, and the AVar-office were set on fire ; as were the navy-yard and all the stores, a frigate and a sloop, together with the protecting fort, by the natives in the night ; what the}/ had spared were de- stroyed by the invaders — ordnance stores, &c. " In short," says Admiral Cockburn, " I do not believe a vestige of public property escaped destruction." Arti- cles captured — 206 pieces of cannon, 500 barrels of gunpowder, 100,000 rounds of nmsket-ball cartridges, and a large quantity of ammunition made up. The brilliant operations of Captain (afterwards Sir James) Gordon, in the Potowmac, with his little squadron, which had to run the gauntlet through a host of the (,'///(? of the United States — Commodore llodgcrs, with the seamen of the ' Guerriere,' Captains Perry, Porter, and other "distinguished officers," the men belonging to the ' Constellation,' those who had be- longed to Barney's flotilla, with troops, riflemen, artil- lerymen, and militia — all flocked to the shores of the Potowmac to punish the " base incendiaries." The ex- ploits of these gallant commodores, with their forts on shore (one with a furnace for heating shot), their gun- boats, ships, brigs, and other vessels, terminated in having killed 7 British seamen and wounded 35 ; while Gordon captured and carried away down the river 21 of their vessels. But on the return of this expedition mm. I -:: ■. 330 ROBERT, LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sect. VI. I ' ''i "i' from Washington, it was decided to make a demonstra- tion on the city of Baltimore. The troops under Major- General Koss were landed near North Point. Rear- Admiral Cockburn, always preferring the post of danger, accompanied the Major-General and the army. In the first skirmish the General was picked off by an American rifleman, and breathed his last on his way to the ships. The troops, with about 600 seamen and the marines of the squadron, pushed forwards, attacked the Americans, 6000 or 7000 strong, on their own ground, and supported by field-pieces, and drove them from the field, whence they fled in every direction, leav- ing behind them a considerable number of killed and wounded and two pieces of cannon. I have mentioned these particulars to show that the boasting of the enemy, and the false and criminating views propagated by their partisans, English as well as citizens, are unworthy of attention ; and that whatever America may have suffered in the contest, it was avowedly commenced on her part, and not very willingly continued on the part of England. Numerous detached skirmishes were, however, ne- cessarily continued by sea and land until the 1 8th of February, 1815, when Mr. Madison ratified a treaty of peace at Washington. The treaty with France was concluded in November, 1814. This, together with the losses sustained by the Americans, had decided them also as speedily as possible, which was anticipated by the Board of Admiralty, who, in announcing the peace with France, " expressed a hope that the valour of his Majesty's fleets and armies will speedily bring the American contest to an honourable conclusion, safe for British interests and conducive to the lasting repose li .,|:tS 'ii-t; Sect. VI.] THE ADMIRALTY. 331 of the civilized world." At the same time, it was not deemed expedient to pay off the fleet ; for, although the combined armies had planted their standard on Montraartre, Paris had capitulated, Buonaparte had been compelled to abdicate his throne and was banished to the island of Elba, and Louis XVIII. restored to the throne of his ancestors, it was fortunately deemed not prudent to dismantle the fleet or to disband the army. Notwithstanding these precautions, which implied doubts, at least, as to the establishment of tranquillity on the Continent, universal rejoicing in England oc- cupied men's minds. In this same year the centenary of the accession of the House of Brunswick was cele- brated in the most splendid manner, and kept as a day of jubilee in every part of the kingdom. The following year (1815) afforded a mixture of grief and joy — of grief for the escape of the great enemy of Europe from Elba; for the renewal of hostilities by the French; for the escape of Louis XVIII. and the royal family, and for the army got up by the Jacobins ; of rejoicing at the overthrow of that army at Waterloo; and the exile of Buonaparte to St. Helena, who, on the sum- mit of this miserable island in the Southern Atlantic, died in the course of four or five years, thus liberat- ing Europe from a scourge as destructive as a pesti- lence; having given to the world a most striking example of that retribution for excessive tyranny and inordinate ambition, which is due to those who exercise them. The European world was now nearly at peace. One power only, by its treachery and breach of engage- ments, called upon the British navy to avenge its dar- ' hf^i 332 UOBEUT, LOUD VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sict. VI, IW , "f! - » ■■'r ?■■'' ■ t . j'ii'l'' *: * is.'; * *f ing perfidy — the Dey of Algiers. Lord Exmoutli had carried his point respecting the abolition of Christian slavery, but had failed at Algiers. He and his officers, who had gone on shore, were insulted, and their lives endangered ; the state of the weather and of his ships made it ini])ossible to attack the town with any chaiRo of success. He proceeded to England, vowing voii- geaiicc on the tyrant ; he found that news had arrived of the atrocious massacre of the crews of the coral fishery at Bona; which outrageous proceeding, added to the insult on Lord Exmouth, determined the Govern- ment to fit out at once a force which r-hould obtain from the Dey, by intimidation or actual violence, reparation for the late outrage, and for the future a general and unconditional abolition of Christian slavery for ever. Lord Exmouth arrived just in time to ask the com- mand of it. Five sail of the line, five frigates, five gun-brigs, and four bombs composed it. The result is well known, and so is the glorious conduct of the Com- mander-in-Chief. The Queen Charlotte led on, an- chored on the very spot pointed out, within fifty yards of the mole-head — the very horns of the Lull— and M'ith two feet water only to spare. The meaning was obvious — conquer or die. Salame, the Arab inter- preter, describes his Lordship on the poop after the action : "His voice quite hoarse, two wounds — one on the cheek, the other on the leg. It was indeed asto- nishing to see the coat of his Lordship, how it was all cut up by the musket-balls and by grape." With the above exception, the blessings of peace and prosperity were abundantly shed on the British empire. From the year 1816 to 1818 almost the whole progeny of the royal family and its branches were marrying and Sect. VI.] THE ADMIUALTY. 333 mcanins ^vas given in marriage, and among them his Royal High- ness the Duke of Clarence was united to her Serene Highness Amelia Adelaide, daughter of the late Duke ot Saxc Meiningen. The Dukes of Kent, Cumberland, and Cambridge each took to himself a German prin- cess. Death, however, was not sparing of its victims. In 1820 George III. died, in the 82nd year of his age, having lost his Queen, Charlotte, two years before. His successor, George IV., in the second year of his reign visited Ireland, and in 1822 embarked at Green- wich for Scotland, and died in the year 1830, when King William IV. was proclaimed. During all this period of tranquillity there was but littl'j demand on the services of the royal navy. It had since the year 1817 afforded a fitting opportunity of employing a few small ships in voyages of discovery for the advancement of geography, navigation, and com- merce. In this year I wrote, and caused to be pub- lished in a popular journal, a curious and interesting account of the disruption of large fields and masses of ice and huge icebergs from difierent parts of the Arctic regions, and their transport far down into the Atlantic. The authenticity of this event was unquestionable, being corroborated by numerous eye-witnesses ; it was deemed a fair occasion to explore these northern seas, and renew the attempts to discover a north-west passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, which had engaged the attention of the learned and ingenious, as well as the mercantile interests of this kingdom, at various periods ; and I proposed a plan of two voyages for Lord Mel- ville's consideration, which, after consultation with his colleagues, supported by the recommendation of the Koyal Society, was adopted. 334 liOBERT, LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Skct. VI. ■■■■' :■% ■ 'll ♦ ■" ,1' r -:' I'm' I ■ '»', I In these voyages, Parry, in no less than four cxplora- tions, greatly distinguished himself by his adventurous zeal and unwearied exertions, as also by the exercise of his scientific acquirements, and by his judicious arrangements and conduct for the preservation and comfort of the people entrusted to his charge. Sir John Franklin, Sir George Back, and Sir John l!ich- ardson, in their boat excursions along the shore cf the Polar Seas and on the continent of North America, and by their severe sufferings on these land jouriieys, cannot be too highly spoken of; and all the other offi- cers, whether employed by sea or on shore, exhibited the most able and splendid examples of perseverance under difficulties, of endurance under afflictions, and resig- nation under every kind of distress. I thought it due to them, as it was agreeable to me in my retirement, to publish a small and readable volume, containing the essence of the large and expensive official accounts, in order to make the merits of these brave fellows- officers and men — more generally and extensively known. While these voyages were pending, I received the following communication from Edinburgh : — I- ■aim u^m:i. "Sir, *' College, Edinburgh, January 22nd, 1821. " I have the honour to inform you, by the com- mand of the Senatus Academicus of this University, that, at their meeting on Saturday last, they conferred on you the honorary degree of LL.I)., and they request you to believe that they have conferred the degree as a proof of their respeci for your literary talents, and for your effective zeal in promoting the progress of science. Allow me to add, that in this case the graduation was .LE. [Si:cT. VI. Sici. VI.] THE ADMIRALTY. 335 moved by Professor Jameson, and carried by the unani- mous warm approbation of the meeting. "To myself, personally, I beg leave to assure you that the motion and the mode of its reception afforded great gratification. " May you long live to enjoy those tokens of esteem, which every enlightened friend of science and of his country's honour is disposed to offer to you. " I remain. Sir, &c., "John Barrow, Esq." "Geo. H. Baird. •: *' wmmmm i r 4 ■■ 336 THE LORD ElIGH ADMIRAL. [Sect. VII. Section VII. His Royal Higliness the Duke of Clarence Appomted Lord High Admiral. May 2, 1827— September 18, 1828. Right Hon. Admiral SirGEOuoECocKBUUN. .First of his Couiuil. Right Hon. JoiiN Wilson Crokeu Secretary. In 1827, when Mr. Canning proposed to grant eman- cipation, or rather certain concessions of relief, to the Roman Catholics, which would probably have paved the way for emancipation, his old Tory associates began to desert him in such numbers, that he soon found himself unable to carry on the Government, without having recourse to some portion of the Whigs, and not to refuse even the assistance of those Radicals, who were favourable to his proposed measures; but it must be admitted that, in return, he never gave countenance to any of their levelling opinions ; neither did he ac- quiesce in the reform of Parliament or the Test Act, or in the other liberal tenets which the Whig party professed; consequently he could not place much re- liance on their giving him a cordial support. The plea of the deserters from his standard was, that if he persisted in mooting the question of Catholic emancipation, he would not be able to keep together such an efficient government, as the exigencies of the country required. Harassed and annoyed by the dissensions and <^^'' * '1 4 " Ik SEcr. VM.] THE ADMIRALTY. 337 discussions constantly occurring between the old and the new friends, and more particularly by the com- plaints, the grievances, and the ill-humour of the few old ones that remained, and the taunts of those that had separated from him — the sensitive mind of Mr. Canning gave way and produced an evil influence on his health, which was observed rapidly to decline ; and he felt him- self strongly to have been a sort of self-sacrifice to those, who had so long shared his friendship. Among the separatists was Lord Viscount Melville, who had held the office of First Lord of the Admiralty for fifteen years, a nmch longer period than it has ever before or since been held by the came individual. When it came to his turn to explain to the House the reason of his resignation, he said, that in his opinion, the Government, as now composed, would not be an adequate substitute for the prudent, able, and useful superintendence, which that of Lord Liverpool had effectually maintained : that, in short, he disliked the choice which Mr. Canning had made of his new friends: and he deemed the most proper and prudent line for him to take was, to send in his resignation ; it was not, however, immediately accepted, and there- fore he continued to act until a successor should be named. The Admiralty might thus be said virtually to have become vacant of a First Lord : but the want for a time vas fully compensated by a competent Board, in which were three naval officers of high reputa- tion—Sir George Cockburn, Sir W. J. Hope, and Sir Henry Hotham. Sir George Cockburn had been serving seven or eight yeais as a Lord of the Ad- miralty; he was known to be an officer in possession z ■ i 1' ^S^^BSRI 338 THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Sect. VII, i f .•■i«». ■ , .1. of a vigorous understanding, of thorough professional knowledge in the military, civil, and judicial depart- ments of the service, and of indefatigable perseverance in the execution of the laborious duties of his office. For clearness of intellect, for ability in making himself master of the most intricate and complicated cases, I have never met his equal. He had, moreover, acquired so complete a knowledge of naval and military law, that the Board were seldom unsatisfied with his o])inioii; and the office of Counsel to the fVdmiralty was all but a sinecure, a solicitor alone being required. No inconvenience, therefore, arose during the few months that a chief might be said to be wanting; though no fresh patent was made out to supersede Lord Melville or any portion of the Board; but as soon as the Duke of Wellington was appointed to take the situation of Premier, become vacant by the resignation of Mr. Canning, his Eoyal Highness the Dnke of Clarence was declared Lord High Admiral of Eng- land ; and the Lords of the Admiralty then exist- ing continued, not in the capacity of a Board, but as the Council of his Royal Highness, to advise aud carry on the usual and necessary duties ; but deprived of the power of promoting, or even of signing their names to any official document; all of which were either to bear the sign manual of the Lord High Admiral, or, by his authority, that of one of the Secretaries. The Lord High Admiral, moreover, had no seat in the Cabinet. This, it may be apprehended, was deemed proper, from the circumstance of his lloyal Highness standing in the position of heir-presumptive to the throne. When the patent had been prepared, signed, sealed, '1 «i Sect. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 339 and sent to the Admiralty, informrtion thereof was o'iveu to his Royal Highness. The same day the Board — now the Council — paid their respects ; and Mr. George Fitz-Clarence (afterwards Lord Munster) called on me, with a message from his father, to say that he desired to see me at his temporary residence, in Charles-Street, the following morning. His Royal Highness received me mo.st graciously ; said he was well acquainted with the late Lord JMacartney, who had frequently mentioned my name to him ; and that his son George had spoken highly of the valuahle as- sistance and advice I had given him, in the prepara- tion of his volume regarding India; spoke strongly of his desire to serve me, and assured me that I should possess his whole confidence. He asked also several questions as to the constitution of the Board and its naval members, who were to continue as members of his Council : said that he knew Sir George Cockburn well, and that Hope and he were old friends and ship- mates. I assured him he would find the whole of his Council intelligent officers and agreeable gentlemen ; and, as profound peace prevailed, his Royal Highness would have few professional dilKculties to encounter, except probably that of numerous pressing applications from old officers ; many of whom had long and good ser- vice to plead, during the late protracted war, and now fewer opportunities occurred of meeting their wishes. He was punctual to the time he had appointed to take his seat on the following day, a seat that had been properly prepared for the present occasion of receiving a royal personage ; he delivered an extempore address to his Council, and a separate one to each of the Secre- taries ; stating, in general terms and in very courteous z 2 ; ■ : ^!1 •I. mi , 1 .f >. 340 THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Sect. VIJ. language, how little professional knowledge could be ex- pected from him, and how much he had to look to from them. When he had left the Board-room, he sent for me, and desired me to look over the dwelling-house with him ; and on entering the dining-room, he asked how many could sit down at table. I said about thirty I thought, but had never seen more than eighteen or twenty. " Did all or any of the First Lords you have known," he asked, " give many dinners, and entertain frequently naval officers resident in and about town, or who occasionally might call upon him from the coun- try ? " " Not very often, I believed : Lord Mulgrave, I thought, had company most frequently." " Did not Lord Spencer entertain largely ? " "I was not here under Lord Spencer's administration; but I have heard Lady Spencer say, that a week scarcely passed v.\ whicli they had not two or three large dinner-parties ; that, if an officer came up from one of the ports, or some distance from town, Lord Spencer always asked him to dine, and then there was some bustle to find proper per- sons to meet him, or to make up a party from the Board." " That 's quite right," quoth he ; " I delight in hospitality, and mean to practise it here." And so in fact he did ; for his man of business informed nie, tliat he came to the Admiralty entirely free from debt: and that in the fifteen months he held the office, he had incurred a debt of twenty-three thousand pounds. His Royal Highness, indeed, carried with him to the throne the virtue of hospitality to an extravagant degree, His Master of the Household, Sir Frederick Watson, told me that he found himself compelled to remonstrate with his Majesty on this subject, and to announce to him frankly, that the finances for the supply of the Sect. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 341 table were actually exhausted, and that he could not go on without considerable retrenchment. " Well, then," said his Majesty, " let us sell some of the stud ; for you know, Watson, that my delight is in hospitality." I understood, however, that he saved enough, in a short time, to liquidate the debt created while at the Admiralty ; a part of which had boen incurred by the necessity of purchasing furniture and plate. He com- plained that while an immense quantity of the latter was uselessly piled up at Windsor, he was obliged to borrow on the two visitations he made to the Dock- Yards ; which was the case. The first of these visitations commenced on the 7th July, 1827, when the Lord High Admiral embarked in the ' Royal Sovereign ' yacht, commandci by Sir William Hoste, attended by the ' Procris ' brig for the purpose of answering signals that might be made to or from the ' Royal Sovereign ;' the ' Comet ' steamer also accompanied, to tow the ' Procris,' which was not able to keep up with the yacht. His Royal Highness had ordered me to see that everything that was neces- sary should be put on board the yacht ; plate, wines of different kinds, and various other articles. He had asked the King to lend him plate ; w hicli he refused. On this occasion none of his Council accompanied him; but he ordered me to attend him, and to take with us my son, who had but recently been entered on the est^iblishment of the Admiralty.* On the 9th of July the * Royal Sovereign ' arrived * He liad been placed on the establishment by IVIr. Croker, the secretary having always had the patronage of the office appointments, which his Royal Highness now took to himself; and which has since continued with the First Lord of the Admiralty. The youth in question is now, after more than twenty years' service, on the .■ 1 *iHi K:'.-. 342 THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Sect. VII. 'V :"*\ \ :■ ill Plymouth Sound. The hills were covered with crowd.s of people, and all the ships in the Sound and Planioaze saluted the flag of the Lord High Admiral. On landing at Mount Wise, such an immense crowd had assembled that with difficulty the residence of Admiral Lord ^'orthesk could be approached. On the following morning the royal visitor commenced his inspections; the first of which was the Breakwater; and he expressed himself highly pleased with the pro- gress of this important work, which, he thought, was planned with great skill and executed with judgment and ability, lie desired me to make minutes of this and of all the objects, which it was his intention to examine. I told him I had never omitted to do so on previous visitations, every one of which I had attended ; and that his Royal Highness would find in the Admiralty records a book in which they were all noticed. Mr. Jlennie, who was present, produced a plan of a liy;hthouse for the western extremity of the lireak- water, which could be erected at the expense of 30,000/. or 40,000/. ; but the Lord High Admiral thought a floating light would answer quite as well, an opinion in which most of the naval officers present agreed, and which was at the time adopted ; but Mr. Whitby was directed to carry up, simultaneously, a foundation shaft, as the work proceeded, to be made use of or not as might thereafter be decided on. The next morning the Duke was early in the Dock- Yard, nuistered the whole establishment, inspected the several offices, and examined the books ; nor was this first class, and keeper of the Recordis, whicii have l/i/ film been arranged and classified, for the first time, from the period of the Revolution in 1G88. 1^: %-' ii ;. n r, .* •! 1>. ^ECT. VII.] IHE ADMIRALTY. 343 all: he actually went over the whole of the storehouses, and over every part of them, from the cellars to the garrets ; and though labouring under a complaint, which unfitted him for great exertion, he completely tired many that had to accompany him, and astonished all by his activity. The following day was appropriated to the minute uxaniinatioii of the Marine barracks, the general management, the rules, and the organization of the porps ; after which he ordered them out upon the Hoe, to the number of about four hundred, witnessed their manoeuvres, and expressed his approval. The Lord High Admiral was considered to be no bad soldier, having studied military tactics in Germany. His next visit was to the ships in commission, where lie mustered the officers and men, and made a thorough inspection, which occupied the greater part of the day. Mr. Keith Douglas, one of the Lords of the Admiralty, arrived : and as neither he nor I could be of much use in going over the fleet, I proposed that we should inspect the mode of keeping the books and accounts in the several offices, taking with us the Commissioner. A new system had just been adopted by the Admiralty to relieve the Timber-Master from keeping accounts ; but the Commissioner expressed himself in favour of the old mode, because it worked well; he was not pre- pared to offer any reasons why the new one should not work better — a small instance was here exhibited of the opposition, which Sir James Graham's sweeping plan of reform abolished, instead of one that might, and, two or three years afterwards, did work better. Oil the evening of the 14tli, her lloyal Highness the Duchess of Clarence arrived ; having proceeded over- • . 11 ^M. • ♦■:; 344 THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Sect. VII, ; >; land, accompanied by Sir Byam Martin. A vast concourse of people assembled on the road between Plymouth and Devonport, and several attempts were made to take off the horses and draw the carriage to the Admiral's house ; but the Duchess implored Sir Byam to prevent it. She mentioned how deeply affected she had been with the kind attention shown to her by the poor people of Ilfracombe. Having to walk down the long street to the pier, in order to cross over into Wales, each person, the very poorest, had brought out before the house, a piece of carpeting, or mat, or rug, for her Royal Highness to tread upon. In the evening, the Duke and Duchess took up their quarters at Mount Edgcumbe : but the Duke continued his inspections every day till the 20th, when the 'Royal Sovereign' and the ' Lightning ' steamer proceeded to Milfbrd Haven. Before we left Devonport, however, and after tlie arrival of the Duchess, Lady Northesk asked me if I thought the Duke would kindly condescend to give a ball on board the ' Royal Sovereign ;' several of the ladies of Plymouth and Devonport having a great wish, of such an opportunity, to pay their respects to the Duchess. I put the question to him. " Go to the Duchess," he said, " and if she has no objection, I liave none ; but it must be clearly understood, that Lady Northesk and Lady Emma Mount-Edgcumbe must give a list of, and stand sponsors for, those who are to be in- vited; and," he asked, "has it been usual with former Boards to give balls ? " " No, Sir ; nor has it been usual on these occasions to be honoured with the visit of a Prince and Princess of the Royal Family." " Well," he says, " take your ball, but I hold you responsible." it I i^ ^ • Sect. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 345 All parties being agreed, I desired the master of the vacht (the present Commander Franklin), a clever, intelligent officer, to fit her up in his best style, and bring the ' Lightning ' alongside, to make a gangway of communication, and lay a flush-deck fore-and-aft on the 'Royal Sovereign.' All this wrs done in the course of the day, and both yacht and steamer were decorated in the most splendid manner, with the flags of all nations, intermixed with flowers and flowering shrubs ; ":;d the whole arrangement presented one of the prettiest sights I ever remember to have seen. The company, to the number of six hundred, in- cluded, of course, the elite of the two towns and of the neighbourhood. The Duchess, with Lord Valletort or Lord Errol (probably the latter), led off the ball, and dancing was kept up till four in the morning. I was desired to take care that every kind of refreshment, and plenty of champagi.e, should be provided ; in which I received cordial assistance from Mr. Sidney and Rev. A. Fitzclarence, who had come with us from town in the yacht. The ' Britannia,' flag-ship, exhibited in her port-holes splendid blue-lights for the entertainment of the party. The Duke and Duchess, and the Mount- Edgcumbe party, left soon after midnight. Desirous of settling the account of the expense attend- ing this fete — which, as far as my recollection serves, was something between 500/. and 600/. — I asked the Duke under what head I should place it, and he said, " To my private account, most certainly ; and I desire that everything extra, and also whatever may have usually been charged to the First Lord's and Board's private account, on the several visitations which you have attended, may in like manner be charged to me. ''i •msm ( I-.' 346 TlIK LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Skct. VII. '■' ! 1 il •■ ■ I . •t»! ■ n I would not have it supposed I gave balls and dinners, on occasions like this, at the public expense ; except only the dinner given to the naval and public officers on board the yacht." On the morning after the ball, the Lord High Admiral reviewed the whole of the troops in the garrison which, with the marines, amounted to about 1500 men ; and he astonished the officers with the extent of the knowledge he displayed of military tactics. His Royal Highness being requested by the gentlemen of the Yacht Club, and others who kept pleasnre-boats, to honour them with his presence at the regatta, within the Breakwater, on the 20th of July, he embarked in the yacht ; and having witnessed the lively scene, retired to his cabin to write his despatches, slept on board, and the following morning put to sea and proceeded to Mil- ford Haven, with the intention of visiting Pembroke Dockyard. On the previous day, the Duchess and her party had proceeded thither by land, and arrived at the same time as the yacht. Scarcely had we entered the dockyard when Lord Cawdor paid his respects to the Lord High Admiral, and invited him and his suite to Stackpole, to remain there during his visitation ; and on the same day Lady Owen made her appearance in the dockyard, mounted on a tine prancing nag, to invite his Royal Highness, in the name of Sir John, to take up his residence at Orielton, which he politely declined, During his stay for a few days at Stackpole, the Lord High Admiral regularly went down to the dockyard, passed through the usual examinations, and viewed the improvements carrying on in this new establishment. Nothing could exceed the kindness and attention ol Lord and Lady Cawdor. Her ladyship's flower-garden, SlTT. VII.] THE ADMIHAI.TY, 347 ic officers on under her own direction, was pronounced to be very tastily laid out ; and the shrubs and flowering plants, ill healthy and vigorous condition, were well arranged. Another most useful work, within doors, which I irreatly admired, was a catalogue of the library, arranged on a plan of her ladyship's, which, for neat- ness and facility of reference, surpassed any I had be- fore seen. The approach to the house is by an ascend- ing road through a wood, with a river gurgling below in the valley, at the end of which is seen the house, placed on the summit of the hill ; and from the house is a view of the river meandering over the plain down to the sea. Lieutenant (now Captain) de Koos made a very pretty drawing of the house and its accom- paniments. The 'Royal William,' a first-rate, was on the stocks; and the Goliah, of 80 guns, being })repared for launch- ing, underwent that operation on the 25tli of July, and, after being christened by her Royal Highness, floated into the haven under the name of the 'Clarence,' in honour of the Duchess, in presence of a vast assemblage of people from every part of the country. Alter this, on the 2Gth, the Duchess left Stackpole to proceed by land direct for Portsmouth, where she was to be joined by the Duke, who also embarked the following day in the ' Royal Sovereign,' towed by the ' Light- ning ' steamer. In proceeding down the coast it began to blow so strong that the steamer was cast oft'. The Wolf rock roared tremendously, between which and the coast of Cornwall the yacht went beautifully, and rounded the Land's End without our seeing anything more of the steamer. On the 30th of July, at six in the evening, we reached Portsmouth. 348 THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Srct. VI r. 1 1 •J I ' The whole of the Slst was occupied in visiting the ships of war lying at Spithead, and also those in harbour. The Duke next mustered the ' Warspite,' just returned from the East Indies. Next day he commenced his examination of all the departments, the offices, the storehouses, workshops, the docks, basi.is, and slip<5 of the dockyard, which, with the large ordinary in the harbour, occupied five or six days ; on one of \s liich lie gave a dinner, on the flush-deck of the yacht, to about eighty persons, consisting of naval officers and the gentry of the neighbourhood. The only holiday, if it may be so called, was on the 9th of August, when the whole of the garrison and the marines, including the fine corps of the Marine Artillery — (shortly afterwards, unwisely, as was generally thought, reduced, and cur- tailed in their allowances) — were drawn out on Southsea Common. Every preparation was made for a grand display on this occasion. All the ships at Spithead were droeised — the yachts cruising about — and the Duchess, in the Admiral's barge, followed by a multitude of boats, some with bands of music, and many of them filled with ladies, ever ready to contribute to the splendour and the gaiety of a scene like the present. On shore, the extensive surface of the Southsea Com- mon was crowded to excess, so that it required great exertion to preserve a sufficient space for the troops to go through their manoeuvres. The day was beautifully fine, and nothing but universal joy prevailed in the purlieus of Portsmouth, both by sea and land ; — but a sudden and sorrowful blight came over this gay scene, and destroyed at one blow every vestige of pleasure and joy, bringing in their place lamentation and woe, Sbct. VIl.] THE ADMIRALTY. 840 A telegraph message from London was handed to Admiral Stopford, which, in the absence of his key, he was not prepared to make out ; the Duke impatiently called out, " Where is Barrow ? " I was at his elbow, and the Admiral handed me the message. "What is it? — (juick, quick!" " Sir, it is brief^ but painfully dis- tiess^ing — Mr. Canning is dead." lie held up his hands, expressed an ejaculation, and said, " Stopford, send off this moment to recall the Duchess, to stop the firing, to strike the flags, and to put every ship in mourning ; and send to the General to desire that he will forthwith dismiss the troops to their quarters." Having given these hasty orders, he turned to me and said, " Poor Canning! he was very ill when we left town : he caught a severe cold at my brother's funeral, the effect of which, together with the hurry and harassing occasioned by the de- sertion of his friends, threw him into a fever. I always said liis false friends would be the end of him ; I knew that in the present state of his mind and body he could not bear the worrying of the House of Commons, and that if he did not seek a temporary retreat, he must sink under it." The Duke's real character of being gifted with a kind and feeling heart, evinced as it was in numberless in- stances, which came to my knowledge during the short period he held the situation of Lord High Admiral, showed itself strongly on this melancholy occasion. I could have adored him for it. Nothing more was done or thought of at Portsmouth, from whence the Duke immediately departed with all haste for London, very low spirited. He was not absent more than three days, and on the fourth the ^:i ■*S£S?l*T«WK"?SH5~-« W:[ • • •' .' ». ;!:i- *•■! ■ ■•' '1 .'. I 'i- '' » ■ -•• *• '. 350 THE LORD HIGH ADMIIIAI,. [Sect. VI I. yacht was under way on her return from Portsmouth direct for the Thames. The gloom which the death of Mr. Canning occa- sioned was general through the land; and the opinion which the Duke of Clarence expressed on the moment of hearing it — " They have killed him ; I knew they would kill him " — was also general, and more espe- rially among those who mixed with public men and public affairs. As Prime Minister, succeeding to the popular government of Lord Liverpool, he had an- nounced an intention to consider, but nothing more ibr the present, what relief could with safety be vouchsafed to the Catholics ; this alarmed his friends, who, in great haste and in an evil hour, resigned their official situations, which he was left to fill up with those of his personal friends among the Whigs, to enable him to carry on the government. By the Tories he found he was deserted — denounced as having betrayed them: the newspapers in their cause abused and slandered him with that virulence and malignity usually bestowed upon an apostate. They carried their malevolence sr far ar, to insult him on his mean birth and family con- nexions ; and even those, who were once his most inti- mate friends, taunted him or turned their backs upon him. The secession of Mr. Canning's Tory or Protestant friends, and his union with those who had always heen his political enemies, cannot but bring to one's mind what is just now occurring with regard to Sir Kohcrt Peel. His friends have deserted him, because of his earnest endeavours to procure food and clothing for tlie people, and at reasonable prices. Mr. Canning's friends left him because he wished to confer toleration to the .',H:i\-}.i Sect. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 851 immense body of Catholic subjects. The kind and ami- able feelings of Mr. Canning were of too sensitive a nature, to enable him to bear up against the desertions of old friends, the ambiguous support of new ones, and the taunts of enemies. His mind was ill at ease, his spirits drooped, and he fled for repose to a house at Chiswick, where he had one friend that did not desert him ; and here he terminated his mortal career, iu recovering peace of mind and tranquillity as the end approached — that mind and those spirits, the elegance and playfulness of which were once the admiration of all who had the happiness of his acquaintance, were now at rest. The following lines, by Mr. Croker, are so charac- teristically true, and so beautifully descriptive, that I cannot forbear reprinting them in this place : — ON niE DEATH OF MR. CANNING. Farewell, b.ij^lit spirit! brigiitest oftiie bright! Concentrcite blaze of intellectual ligiit ! Who show'd alone, or in the first degree, Union so apt, such ricii variety ; Taste guiding mirth ; and sport enlivening sense ; Wit, wisdom, poetrj', and eloquence, Profound and playful, amiable and great ; And first in social life, as in tlie state. Not whoUi/ lost ! — thy letter'd fame shall tell A part of what tliou wast. Farewell ! Farewell ! Farewell, great statesm n ! whose elastic mind Clung round thy country, yet embraced mankind ; Who, in tiie most appalling storms, whose power Sliooiv the wide world, wast equal to the hour. Cliampion of measured liberty, whence springs The mutual strength of people and of iiings, 'Twas tliine, like Chatham's patriot task, to wield The people's force, yet be the monarch's siiield. Not wholljf lost ! — for both the worlds shall tell Thy history in theirs. Farewell ! Farewell ! THi^^^^^^msm 352 THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL, 9 Mi [Sect. VII, Farewell, dear friend ! in all relations dear, In all we love, or honour, or revere ; Son, husband, father, master, patron, friend : AVhat varied grief and grat'tude we blend I We who beheld, when pain's convulsive start Disturb'd the frame, it could not change the heart ; "We, wliose deep pangs to soften and console Were the last efforts of thy flying soul. Not wholly lost .' — our faith and feelings tell That we sliall meet again. Farewell ! Farewell ! There was something in thij look and the general appearance of Mr. Canning so peculiarly his own, tiiat a stranger, on meeting him and catching a glance of his finely-formed face and penetrating eye, wonld be apt to turn round and view his person, which was of the mean height and gracefully turned. In the company of friends he was always cheerful, lively, and bril- liant ; with strangers generally reserved. He was admitted to be one of the most accomplished scholars of his time; and, like a true Eton classic, a false quantity was not to be tolerated or passed ; yet it once fell to my lot, unlearned as I felt myself to be, to express, perhaps incautiously, yet with all humility, a doubt whether he had not himself been guilty of a grave error of this kind. Sitting opposite to him at table, he was giving an account of his embassy to Lisbon, in H.M.S. the ' GranTcus.' Looking at hira and smiling, I repeated doubtfully, in a tone of interrogation, "Granicus?" "I beg pardon, Grani- cus," he said ; " I was classically wrong, but nautically right — I was talking sailor's Latin, Mr. Barrow." "I know," he continued, " you are great critics at tbe Admiralty ; though I think I might venture a wager, that you christened that frigate Granicus, when she was launched, and that she has kept the name ever ■ * Skct. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 353 since." I felt that, unintentionally, I had touched a tender point, but thought no more about it. How- ever, some time after this, perhaps a twelvemonth, inquiring of me how his son was getting on with his new Captain, Dawkins (under whom I had placed him), I said, "Rema :ably well; Dav/kins gives an excellent account of him." " Better, 1 suppose," he rejoined, in a jocular but pointed manner, "than if he had gone with me in the 'Granicus?'" It really gave me concern to have been so indiscreet as to notice his error — if error it were — for, never having seen the word in Latin verse, I knew not, certainly, whether the middle syllable niiiiht be long or short : this doubt led me now to inquire, and I soon found a line that satisfied me of its being long : — " Fertur Alexirlioi', Graiilcu uata bicorni.'' Ovid, Met., xi. T63. Mr. Canning's son lost his life accidentally, in Sep- tember, 1828, the year after his father's death; who was thciefore spared the pain of knowing it. Being a high-spirited youth, nothing would serve him but the sea. Unfortunately, the discipline of the first ship, in which he entered, was very lax ; and, among other vices, the young niidshipnien indulged in gambling; in this, as well as in more praiseworthy pursuits, young William Pitt Canning bore away the palm. There hapj)encd, hy ill-luck, to be in the shij) a lieutenant of marines, who, knowing Canning's propensity, and that he was more than a match for him, enticed him into his private cabin, and won from hini in the course of a Httle time something about 400/. The boy became unhappy, when pressed by the officer to get the money 2 A I u: •.-' 354 THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Sect. VII. from his father, to whom neither of them had the courage to apply. But young Canning told it to a brother midshipman, who being known to me thought it right to mention the circumstance. I immediately went to Mr. Canning, to get the youth removed out of so im- proper a ship ; he was of course much annoyed, but said the money must be paid. I said the money must not be paid ; and if the officer had his due, he should be brought before a court-martial. " No," saiid Canning, sharply, " never on my or my son's account. I must pay the money." "xVnd thus," I replied, " encom-age your son in the vice of gambling, and also the otFend- ing officer to ruin some other foolish boy. If he should have the impudence to apply to you, pray refer him to me: and let me get your son's di.scharge, and place him under a friend of mine. Captain Dawkins, whom I know, and who will instruct him in the right way." 1 placed him accordingly under Captain Dawkins, wh keT)t him when on board under rigid discipline, with a due attention to the study of nautical subjects, made him his aide-de-camp, and took him with him on shore, and on visits to his friends ; in short, made him an accom- plished young officer : and, when the ship was paid ofti I obtained from my friend Captain Houston Stewart, one of the best officers in the service, a berth for young Can- ning, and the same rigid and indulgent treatment; and under the instruction of these two officers, he proceeded rapidly in the career for promotion ; and, not loiii before his father's death, was sent out, in the command of the 'Alligator,' to Madeira, where, in the contest between Don jMiguel and Don Pedro, a revolution was threatened, and our merchants required protc^iin for their persons and property. He found lying nil' Sect. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 3.55 the island two sail of the line, two frigates, and three smaller vessels, having on board a new governor of Don Miguel to supersede Valdez, the legitimate one, who had refused to allow the new governor to land ; and, on "oiiig on shore, Captain Canning found the two parties ill a violent state of commotion, and many of our mer- chants and others requesting to be received on board. Vaklez took the opportunity of escaping on board the Alligator,' in the Captain's absence, on which the Portuguese admiral, whose name was Prego, addressed a vulgar and impertinent letter to Canning, who, in a style not unworthy of the father, made him feel in what a contemptible light he received his swaggering and impotent language : and as the 'Alligator' was not uf a capacity to receive all who were desirous of re- moving, Canning succeeded in hiring a large merchant- ship for their accommodation. When the admirable account of Ca})tain Canning's prnceeding.s and his correspondence, were read to the Koard of Admiralty, M r. Croker, at their conclusion, could not refrain from exclaiming, ''There, my Lords, we have a true chip of the old block I " That chip, however, was ordained too soon to follow the old block to the })lace whence no one returns, and to leave his remains on the island where his early and last service Mas jjeribrmed. Fatigued by a ramble over the hills, and heated, he repaired to a large tank behind Mr. Gordon's house, to cool himself by bathing, was sej^icd with cramp, and sank. A female passing that way, see- iiic; some clothe^, hanging on the railing, gave immediate alarm; the body was recovered, but all attempts to restore animation failed. Thus prematurely perished this highly gifted and promising young officer. Mr. Canning never thought he could do enough for 2a2 % • 1 i 4. i' jt [ 3ij6 THE LORD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Sect. VII. • - •• . i .. the obligation he conceived he lay under for nn attention to his son ; though to reclaim so fine and promisuig a youth was indeed a sincere pleasure to me. Among his many unsolicited favours, the follo\viiio' letter bespeaks his kind intention : — "Bath, Jan. 11, 1825. " My dear Sir, " A writership, which I gave away when I was at the Board of Control, has been returned upon my hands, by the death of the youth to whom I gave it. " Among the progeny which you enumerated the la.st time that I had the pleasure of meeting you (at Mr. Backhouse's) there was one son, whose destination ap- peared not to be entirely settled, and whose age (if I mistake not) would qualify him for such an appoint- ment. " There are few persons in the world whom it Avoiild be a greater satisfaction to me to assist in the persons of their children — for I feel myself greatly in your debt for all the trouble I have given you about my son. " If the nomination would be acceptable to you, pray let Backhouse know, and he will explain to you the particulars of it. " Believe me, my dear Sir, " Very sincerely yours, (Signed) " Geo. Canninc;." Nothing of any importance occurred in the remain- ing part of this year, except that strnnge, unlookedtor attack made on the Turkish fleet, lying quitt)y at anchor in the Bay of Kavarino, by a British squadron, assisted by those of France and liussia — a feat of wliidi his Royal Highness could never speak with temper. 11 Sect. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 357 Jan. 11, 1825. But something more than this had ruffled his mind towards the middle of the year 1828, and it was sup- posed that he was not satisfied with the position in which he stood at the Admiralty. I saw him in his room daily, when in town, and could observe no change in his manner : always kindly disposed to accede to the numerous petitions he received ; and when told, as I was frequently obliged to tell him, that the orders in council or regulations of the service would not admit of their heuig complied with, " Express my regret," he would sny, " and say that I am sorry for it." He was, how- over, more frequently absent than in the former year, either at Windsor or at Bushy Park. About the commencement of July, 1828, the yacht was ordered to be prepared for sea, and Sir Byam Martin apprised of the time that his Royal Highness meant to be at Portsmouth. He gave me notice that I should accompany him, but that he had no inten- tion to make it a regular visitation ; that a few points only would engage his attention. The Honourable Captain Spencer, his private Secretary, had command of the yacht, and our first port was Sheerness. As his Royal Highness made his own memoranda, he desired me to have copies of them taken, which he would sign; and, that after the Council had seen them, I should cause them to be bound and deposited among the records of the Admiralty. Those notes show so iiuieh good sense with so complete a knowledge of their several subjects, that I feel bound in duty to insert in this j)lace an abstract of some and the whole of others ; hy which it will be seen that there was no want of either talent, judgment, or attention, in the perform- ance of his duties as Lord High Admiral: — 3o» THE LOUD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Sect. VII. : ^ *.. Memorandam. f ^ ' i' I " Sheerness, July 10th, 1828. "Siiecrness Yard having so recently been visited by me, I have not thought it necessary on the present occasion to do more than consider of a proper site tor a naval hospital ; which is the only description of building, now required, in order to render this establish- ment complete for all purposes." He gives, first, a plan of the ground, which he ascertains from the Commanding Officer of Engineers can be built upon without inconvenience to that depart- ment, and orders a plan and estimate of the building to be prepared. "The situation is good; and, besides the ample space of seven acres, it is removed from the near neighbourhood of private buildings, and very convenient for landing sick and wounded men, on the north side, from the ships at the Nore, with the prevailing winds ; and the landing on the harbour-side of Sheerness is always good." His Royal Highness then adverts to the aggravation of the sufferings, and exposure of the lives to hazard, in the removal of sick and wounded men fourteen niik> to Chatham Hospital, which, he observes, is convenient for the Marine cor])S, but of small advantage to tin port of Sheerness for the equipment and reHt of % Majesty's ships. He therefore recommends that Chat- ham Hospital should be transferred to the military department. He adds : — "It is true that steam-vessels might be employed to remove the sick and wounded ; but even this is oIj- jectionable, as the very concussion of the engine would '[ h ^ Skct. VH.] THE ADMIRALTY. 359 be distressing to wounded men ; and, in a large fleet, accident and sickness would require an almost constant communication with the Hospital. (Signed) " William." Memorandum. "Deal, July lltli, 1828. Ho finds the buildings of this Yard lo good in repair, as well as their general arrangement for all purposes, that he only orders a wall to be removed to be rebuilt in another direction, and to alter the line of a drain from the town through the Yard into the sea. He gave directions also for an estimate to be made of the expense of laying down pipes and the purchase of some land for a reservoir ; observing, that a convenient and copious supply of water will be beneficial for the trade of the country, as well as for his Majesty's ships ; and any expense may be repaid to the public by a small charge for watering merchant- vessels. He next adverts to the plan of a breakwater, or pier, in front of the Yard, which Lord Liverpool had brought under his consideration, having been induced to entertain a very favourable disposition to promote the undertaking; his Lordship's arguments resting chiefly on the facility of embarking troops, the con- venience of landing the sick and wounded, and expe- dition in the shipment of stores. The observations made by the Lord Admiral were sensible and just. " 1\\ the consideration of propositions of this nature, I feel the necessity of guarding against any unnecessary expenditure of the public money ; but at the same time, any economy which trespasses upon the real ! , f GGO THE LOKD HIGH ADMIRAL i • [Sect. VII. wants of the public service is a misapplication of tlio term ; and it is with this feeling that I enter upon the various proposals which come before me. " In the present instance I admit that, in war, a pier and breakwater at Deal would afford much con- venience ; but the great facility and expedition given to the movement of troops and the conveyance of stores by steam, are now so extended and so much better understood, that I cannot bring myself to think it expedient, under present circumstances, to undertake such a work; but the various plans and papers, being preserved in office, will be found useful if) at any future period, the work is to be taken in hand ; and Mitli this view I have directed a plan to be prepared of another description of breakwater, proposed by Mr. Taylor ; the estimated expense will be about 70,000/. (Signed) " William." On arriving at the Dock- Yard, I was directed by the Lord Admiral to deliver an order to Sir Robert Stopfbrd to the following effect : — " Let Sir Robert Stopford he directed to issue orders to all the ships and vessels under his command, whether at Spithead or in harbour, that they are only to salute the Lord High Admiral and man the yards on his first arrival, and again on his final departure from the port at which he commands." This was settled, no doubt, in town, between his Royal Highness and the Ordnance, who will have given the same orders ; which, I believe, were in consequence of some remarks made on the fetes, and firing on shore and on the water at this port, the preceding year. .;> If', ;• Skct.VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 361 Mcmorandnm. '< Portsmoutli, July 12tli, 1828. Ill noticing the plan of the late Mr. John Jiennie,* lor the improvement of* this Yard, which includes what is called the Common Hard, and for which there is an Act of Parliament to enable the Government to enclose it — • "This (says his Royal Highness) can only be done by a very serious sacrifice of the private interests, health, iiiul convenience of the inhabitants of Portsea ; and al- though the public good is paramount to every other con- sideration, yet the feelings and interests of individuals must not be disregarded, and I do not think this great range of work is so necessary as to justify such pro- ceeding. The works contemplated by Mr. Rennie would, according to his own estimate, amount to 913,000/." And he decides, after a full consideration of the vliole subject, to limit the expenditure for the erection of new mast-houses, necessary to the wants of the service, to 30,000/. A memorial having been presented by the inhabitants of Gosport, praying for permission for a Company to irect a bridge over Haslar Creek — but having under- stood that in the year 1791 the unauthorized erection of a similar bridge had produced injury to the harbour, and that it was forthwith removed, after proceedings in a court of law, the Duke of Clarence observes: — " Any encroachment on the banks of the harbour, or obstruction to the full flow of the tide, must be guarded Inserted in the Visitation Book at the Admiralty. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // '^ ^ //'^ A i/.x & ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 !f IM IIIIIM >^ 1^ III 2.2 M 12.0 1.8 U ill 1.6 <^ 7W .^3 ^M/ ■'■■'•k "':?■ .">* /!^ y Photographic Sciences Corporation 2S WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (7T6) 872-4503 <^.Vi t. JIJ-...,^ If^M M^' ;!■■! ■ it?'' '. ■? ■» I- ; . ■■:•! U' . ■ 'Si ■ •- 362 THE LORD HIGH ADMIUAL. [Sect. VII. against by every possible precaution, and it will be proper to inform the petitioners that their prayer cannot be complied with ; but I would recommend that application be made to the Board of Ordnance, that the Commanding Royal Engineer at Portsmouth be called upon to report whether any such bridge can be thrown over the creek without obstructing the flow of the tide ; and if so, I see no objection to the bridge. But I cannot think it right that the public should entangle themselves with private individuals by allow- ing them to build a bridge in a situation entirely surrounded by lands belonging to his Majesty; and therefore, if a bridge is built at all, it ought undoubtedly to be done by the public ; to be indemnified for the expense by a toll on the passengers." He next visited the new victualling establishment at AV^eevil and the works in progress, which he considered to be well adapted to the wants of the service, and observes that — " By concentrating the establishment, this branch of the service will be conducted with greater economy and dispatch than when the buildings were on each side of the harbour, and so scattered as to occasion great delay and inconvenience to the service. (Signed) " William." I think it was on the third day that his Royal High- ness received a dispatch from London which appeared to annoy him greatly, and determined him to setoff imme- diately by land for town. He ordered Captain the Hon. Robert Spencer and myself to remain, and the former to hold the ' Royal Sovereign ' in readiness to proceed, on his return, to the westward. We took the opportunity of n^ SEcr. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 363 paying a visit to the Captain's mother, the Countess Spencer, at her marine villa, near Kyde, a very agree- table residence on the sea-shore, overlooking the whole extent of that fine piece of water between the Isle of Wight and the Hampshire coast. We were at a loss to conjecture what could have called up the Duke in such haste to town ; but Speiicer said that something was going on between him, the King, and the Government, and that his lioyal Highness was dissatisfied with his present position ; and he added, " in my opinion we shall lose him ere long." The Lord High Admiral rejoined us on the 20th, and the yacht being all prepared, we entered Torbay on the 21st. His lioyal Highness had desired Mr. Whidbey to meet him at this place with a report and plan he had made, at the suggestion of Lord St. Vincent, of a breakwater. The Duke's observations on this great bay are particularly important at this time: — " Upon an inspection on the spot," he says, " it appeared to me that, whenever it shall be thought expedient to undertake the construction of a break- ^vater in Torbay, it will be desirable to carry the line farther seaward, so as to aft'ord a greater scope of anchorage within it: and as the depth of water upon this new line, as described in dotted lines on the plan, is not greater than in the line of direction proposed by Mr. Whidbey, the expense will not be increased, while much greater accommodation will be afforded within, for a large fleet to anchor and work out. " The growing importance of Cherbourg as a port of rendezvous for a fleet, led me to consider of the import- ance of rendering Torbay a safe anchorage in all winds »• y. ) :' r :((ii rilK I.OIM) IIKill ADMII.VI. M t.T. VII. lor a Hritisli tlcct ciiiitloycd in wat'.'liiiig (lie (iiciuy nj ('lii'rlu»iu>; ; and sfciiif; lliat an raslt-rly wind is I iiir UK fSS tor (lie il(>|)ai'liii'(' orsucli a llcci, aiid \v(Mild, if Itlmvi liard, pn'vcnt the Itiitisli Il<t't iVont ln(>\in^' — mil so sludlcrcd l>y a hnakwalrr as to j-iiaMc llic sliins Id ud u|> liu-ii' ancliors I liavc satislicd uiyscH' ol' iji,. t'asy |)i;u'li«'al)ilily o\' luakint; a !)n'ak\valcr in Torliiiy ; if at any tiiiu* it shall l>c di-cnicd rii^ht to make lliis s|»ari«>Ms hay a salt' harhour l(>r his Majesty's Ih'cl, wiiji a \ ifvv to lilt" ^rcat ohjcct alhi(h'd to, aii<l ll>r Ihr i;oiu'ral acconiinodalioii and salrly of the Iraih' o!' |j|(> rountry; thiTc lu-ing no port l)«'tNV«'«'n IMyinonth .iikI l*ortsinouth whirh all'ords shcltt r in caslfriv winds. (^Sigiu'd) w II.I.IAM. -« * 1 1 is Hoval lliuliinss's atlcntioii was drawn lo lli II. tjuarni's workiii};' aion^ llu' wliolf raiifi't' o' n -y llcid, ami to tlu' tact that the I'Nln'inc |)oint is almost severed li'om till' land; tliat the waste of stone would he severely I'elt if the aho\e snu,i;('stion shonld he aeted upon; and that fhe(>rdna:iee department, would do well to disallow He savs Mr. Whidhev's tl u- wDrkiny; o f th u- (inaiTies, estimate at ID.OOl)/. a-y<'ar li>r twenty-i'ight. years (or I,l2t),tHU)/.) wouhl, he douhted not, he iindertakeii hv Sir Mdward Ivaidvs, at a less estimate hy -JOIMUU)/. In proceediiifA' lln- IMymoiith, the yaeht and the ai'i'omj>anyin^' hrip; looked into the heautit'ul liarhoiir of nartiuoutii, and paid a visit to the (Joveraor, Mr. lloldsworth, who resides on the uppermost terrace ol tho ti)wn. Here tho iidud)itants assemhled in lariio groups to he uratitied with the sight otj and pay tluir vespeets t«>, tlu'ir lioyal Highnesses the \)\\\\V and Duel less o f n a re nee. hv whom tlu'v were recoivod SixT, VI 1. 1 'I'lii'; Ai>Mii(Ai;/v, a ;r, willi I lie ^wiiIchI roiirlcHy mid kind ;ill,<'iili(»n. 'I'li<; (lir.i riior wjih highly dcli^lil.cd, jind ;iiixi(»iiH llic viwil, sliniild Ix! jH'oluii^cd ; Itiit, llif Didu- w;iH <(|ii;illy ;iii\i()iiH lo ^l'^ to I'lyinoiilJi. Mi niDi'tliti htin. " riymr.iilli, 'J'Jiiii .Inly. Tlir tnnin (»l)j<r,l, of llir visit l,o riymoiilli w;ih f.o ilccidr on tin; nuinn- of tin; \'\ii,\tl to Ix- cxliihitt-d on tin; wcslciii nid ol tin; |{i'(!jik water, \vlMllnr on tin; work ilscir or in tlir <'li;(iin(;l in-ar it. 'I'lic advantage of a lloalinfj;' lii^lit consisl.K in sliips rnnnin;^ dir<'<-.tly for it in (lark tcnij (stiioiis wcatlnr with ronlidcnc,*! ; wlicrttan, will) a li|;'lit lionsc, it woidd rcfjiiirr a calculation to \n: made lor tiic liccd or kIojic (d'tlic l{nakwat<;r, and ren- der .sliips lial»l(! to l)(! tlirown too mar to tin! nlioal water oil' M(»nnt lOd^ciiinlx'. This consideration, hacked hy llic ()|)inioii of tli(! Masters Att(ndant, decid<(l his Koy.il IIi^li!U'ss ll)r a light-house on the work its(;il'; bill, instead of carrying- it ii|) at once, at an ex|)ens<! of ;{.'{,()()()/,, he siigg(;st<'d that the lonndation oidy should be carried u|>, with the progress ol" tin; work, at a cost (if lOOO/., W'iiich was ordered to he done. Tin; only otlicr |)oiiit touched upon hy the Duke is pr<jles- .sioiial. " It is inipossihie tiiat anything can h(! hetter than the state ol" preservation of the shij)s in oi'diiiary ; and als(( tlu! attention paid to the selection of well-grown, active hoys to serve in tlie ordinary, and to he drafted licroarter to eouiiiiissioned sliips. It shows that much more attention has Ixicn ])aid to tliis duty here than at JWtsiiiouth, where cliildren of tender health and stunted •i: ., mmsm i-r' •■■•• 366 THE LOUD HIGH ADMIRAL. [Skct. VII. i i' ' ^m- .. : V. i-. '. « I \ 'if growth have been admitted; and which I have f'or- 'oidden in future. (Signed) " Willia^l" This little trip was conducted by the Lord High Aduiiral in the most calm, mild, and tranquil state of mind, as if on a voyage of pleasure — as indeed it turned out to be— a relaxation from what had become to him a vexatious employment, r.iKl one from which he had determined to escape. It appears that his last trip to town was in consequence of a summons from the King to attend him, with the Duke of Wellington and certain of the cabinet ministers. The King, it seems, strenuously opposed his intended resignation, and im- plored him to remain, in which he was seconded with great earnestness by all, but more especially by tiio Duke of Wellington, who declared that, if there was anything he disliked, or any new arrangement of the office he held, which he wished to propose, and such as could constitutionally be given, they were prepared to receive and act upon it. But his Koyal Highness remained firm to his purpose. The King, it is said, implored him, with teavs in his eyes, to remain ; but he was inflexible, and requested only his Majesty's per- mission to resign. On returning to town he com- menced making his arrangements to leave the Admi- ralty, which were speedily completed ; when he desired Spencer to write to the Duke of Wellington, requestimr he would call upon him, on a certain day, to receive his resignation. The Duke waited upon him at the time appointed, and his Royal Highness informed him that he wiis de- sirous to resign the office into his Grace's hands, and to *«' '. Skct. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 867 110 other. The Duke said he hoped he would let him have it in writing. " By all means :" and ringing for Spencer, he said, " Sit down and write that ' I this day resign my commission as Lord High Admiral of England into the hands of his Grace the Duke of Wel- lington.' " He then signed it, and delivered it to the Duke, who put it into his pocket, and took leave. But his Royal Highness followed him towards the door, and holding out his hand to him said, " Though the Lord High Admiral and the Prime Minister may differ in matters of policy, the Duke of Clarence and the Duke of Wellington nmst ever he friends. God bless you ! " This happy expression of kindly feeling occurred while Spencer was in the room, who told it to me ; adding, moreover, that the Duke of Clarence had con- sidered himself to have been placed in a flUse position ; that his situation being precisely that of James, Duke of York, who was made Lord High Admiral by his hrotlier, Charles IL, he, the Duke of Clarence, on receiving the same appoiiifnient, and from similai- anthority, ought to have been invested with precisely the same powers. And Captain Spencer added, "I am not sure that it was not my father who tirst put that notion into his head." Now I find, on looking at the instructions, or patent, given by Charles to his Lord Ilifili Admiral, James had no more powers — perhaps less — than William ; and that the material difference was, tlat instead of a fixed council, a certain number, more or less, of pri\ y councillors, officers of state, were occasionally called in — that the King (whether Charles or James), on any important point of naval service, presided, and signed the orders ; while, in presence '•f the sovereign, the Lord High Admiral's name was 11 ■h . 1. ' 368 THE LORD HIGH ADMIUAL. I 'm' rt.' it> If, . « . ';?'>](; [Sect. Vlf. registered merely at the head of those of the groat officers of state present; and the entry of all such meet- ings bears date at Whitehall. It was a mistake tlieii to suppose the authority of William to have been less than that of James ; who, however, had or assumed the power of deputing his authority while absent at sea: thus, Prince Kupert and the Duke of Albemarle had deputations to act as Lord High Admirals at London, in the Duke's absence. But it was whispered that the Duke of Clarence was dissatisfied with his council, which was turned over from the preceding ]5oard, without any consultation with him. I cannot believe anything of the kind ; it was so decided that they should remain; he was told so, and did not object. He had full power and authority, bv his patent, " to give, grant, and di.spose of all offices, places, and em])loyments belonging to the Navy or the Admiralty ; he knew, and he exercised, that power — for, on the first dav he entered the Board-room, he noini- iiated, from the chair, the late Commissioners, then ])re- sent, to be his council, and his two secretaries, by iiaiiic. By his patent he was allowed two officers well skilled in maritime affairs, or a number not exceeding four, to be paid such fees, as by writ of privy council shall be directed. He might perhaps dislike the principle, but no reason- able objection could be entertained to the Board as then constituted, which was unexceptionable in all and every individual : these were Sir W. J. Hope, Sir Georjic Cockburn, Sir H. Hotham, Hon. W. K. Douglas, W. J. Denison. But I am rather inclined to think, that the restrictions by law, by orders in council, and by established regulations, which daily opposed the grati- StCT. \'il.] THE AOMIILVLTY. 869 ficatifMi of liis wishes to serve the numerous iKifortu- iiate petitioners, who were apt to think his powers uiiHinited, disturbed his traiupiillity ; while the many refusals he had to make might lessen, in his own estimation, the dignity and importance of the office. For I must declare that, after a daily intercourse of fiiU'on or sixteen months, I never met with a more kiiul-hearted num, moi;e benevolent, or more de- sirous of relieving distress, than William, Duke of Clarence. I should be most ungrateful if I did not, on every fitting occaij'on, »jlcclare my opinion in this respect. On the evening of his (putting the Admiralty for the last time, he sent for me into his room, to take leave — thanked me ft)r the service, \ic\ was pleased to say, I liad rendered to him, and, he woidd add, to the public ; said he had ordered a silver inkstand to be made for 1110, with his arms and initials upon it, as a small testi- monial of his esteem and regard ; and he hoped that, whenever I could make it convenient, I would come to Bushey, where the Duchess would be equally glad to see ine. Shortly after his departure, I received a letter from Mr. Iloldsworth, governor of Dartmouth, in which he expressed a wish that I would take an opportunity of conveying to their Royal Highnesses the great delight of his family, and of the inhabitants of Dartmouth, witli the kind courtesy and condescension they met with (luring their short visit. The return of this letter, which I sent to the Duke, was accompanied with the following : — )osed the grati- 2 n - * 870 KING WILLIAM IV. ■i^\- .( :.iii< mnH':..: i,i,;Hj,| /If' ■-r •'.■ ^ - ■ I';.'. I», 1^1 ■ \)}:f,?- ; ■■',._ [Sect. VII. " liuslify-IIouso, October IGtIi, 1H28. " Dear Sir, " In answer to yours of yesterday, and its en- closure from Mr. Holdsworth, which I return, I have to express the Duchess's thanks to you for showing her that gentleman's letter ; she, as well as myself, can never forget Mr. Holdsworth or the good people of Dartmoutli. " I look upon you as a tridy honest man ; and may, therefore, observe we live in a strange and wicked world. Neither you nor I had fair play. I shall always esteem you; and if all I had, whilst at the Admiralty, to deal wilh, had been like yourselt) we should both have been there now. " God bless you, and ever believe me " Your's most truly, " William." I am completely at a loss to conjecture what his Iloyal Highness could mean by not having had lair play. I can honestly say I never had a grievance of any kind or a complaint to make against the Board of Admiralty collectively or individually ; nor am I aware to what the Duke could have alluded with regard to those " he had to deal with." That there was some- thing on his mind to make him uncomfortable I can- not doubt ; I firmly believe that all the members of the Board were desirous of pleasing him: he must refer to higher quarters, and to those he had to deal with at Windsor. For myself) I had abundant proofs of the sincerity of his friendship, which was manifested on all occasions, not only after he left the Admiralty, but from the time he ascended the throne, in June, 1830, to his demise, in June, 1837, when he had reigned just Sect. VI I. J TIIK AUMIUALTY. 871 sivtii years. In all the dinners ^iven to public bodies —the Directors of* the East India Company, Corpora- tlDii of the Trinity House, the ofKeers of (jovernnient, and on special occasions — 1 had a card of coni- iiiaiid. IJeing still in ofKce, these may perhaps be con- sidered as ofKcial, and of course ; but it was not so. Aiiionf? many tokens of the friendship and rej^ard with which 1 was honoured, the following, "unsolicited, and probably unexpected " (as Sir llobert Peel most cor- rectly calls it), carries with it a distinctive mark of the King's feeling, which his Majesty was pleased, iu person, to express to me, with the most cordial con- firatnlations. In my way to New Street chapel, a messenger put into my hand a letter, of which the following is a copy:— " Wliitdiall Gardens, Feb. 1, 1835. " My dear Sir, " I have had the great satisfaction of proposing to the King to confer upon you the distinction of a baronet, and of receiving from his Majesty the most cordial approbation of my j)roposal. " The value of such a distinction depends mainly upon the grounds on which it is offered, and I cannot help flattering myself that an unsolicited, and probably iiiiex])ccted, honour conferred upon you by the King, oil the double ground of eminence in the pursuits of science and literature, and of long, most able, and most taithful public service, will have, in the eyes of your- selfi your family, and your }X)sterity, a value which never can attach to much higher, when unmerited, dis- tinctions. " Believe me, my dear Sir, " Most faithfully yours, (Signed) " Robkut Peel." ,2 n 2 •f »«. «i ' 'f^^ •. If* '^■■^ 372 KING WILLIAM IV. LSkct. VII. The King, in his reply to Sir llobcrt Peel, express- ing approbation, says, — " And no one can admit more strongly than docs his Majesty the claims, literary and scientific, iiiui official, which are united in the person of his highly- esteemed friend Mr. Barrow. (Signed) " William IV On the perusal of this letter I was so taken Iiy surprise and so overcome by the announcement of an event, that had never for a moment entered into my thoughts, that I read it again, and could only conclude that it must have been meant for some other person. I read it a third time, and endeavoured to persuade myself it was, somehow or other, a mistake ; and yet the marks of authenticity and intention were too strong to be resisted. On the .same morning my friend Mr. Croker called on me, I showed him the letter— lie congratulated me ; I asked him on what? "My im- pression is to go to Sir Robert Peel, to implore him to allow me to forego the honour he has so kindly in- tended for me, stating to him as a reason, my nume- rous family of children and grandchildren, and my limited means." lie stopped me short by asking, " Are you mad? Are you prepared to fly in the face of the Prime Minister, who has kindly and considerately pro- posed the honour, and of the King, who has not only approved of it, but has accompanied that approval with a high compliment? Go to Sir Robert Peel iunne- diately, return thanks for (he honour he has conferred on you, and to the King on the first levee-day." I resolved, somewhat reluctantly, to take his advice, and to dismiss from my mind all thoughts of the consequences, SfXT. VII.J Tllli ADMIRALTY. 373 Not but that my reasons were strong in favour of my tlrst impression. A title without the means of properly siipj)orting it, is no desirable aecpiisition. The small estate I ])()ssessed I had sold, on the death of my agent, which if still kept might have caused me more trouble tlian profit. Its produce, added to that of my literary labours, and the sr/, Ings out of a forty years' salary, it had been my intention to distribute at my death among my children, reserving to my widow a decent mainte- nance during her lifetime — of v.hich, as an affectionate wife and mother, and a careful manager of her hus- band's domestic concerns, she is most justly deserving. On the 11th of October in the same year (1835), being the anniversary of the battle of Caniperdown, and falling this year on a Sunday, the King and Queen attended divine service in the chapel of Greenwich Hospital, on which occasion a few naval officers and civilians were commanded to be present, and among others I had the honour to be ordered to attend, and to (line at St. James's Palace. The IJishop of Hereford (Dr. (Irey) was appointed to preach a sermon, which he (lid — and, though a son of his was at the time lying a corpse, he would not excuse himself. The Queen, with a lew ladies, joined the dinner party, and when the Queen was about to retire, the King desired that the ladies would stay, as he had something to say on this occasion, that would bring to the recollection of the naval officers then present the battles that their predecessors and brother officers had fought and won — battles worthy of record, as proving that the naval history of this country had not been neglected or forgotten by succeeding generations. All being attentive, his Majesty began with noticing ■■f:J- 374 KING WILLIAM IV. [Sect. VII •I *'■ ^i:]; : I- ( < ■:'if . u i the first invasion of Britain by Julius Caesar — which he said must have proved to the natives the necessity of a naval force to prevent and repel foreign invasion. From that period he passed on rapidly to the landing of the Danes and northern nations on our coasts, till he came down to more recent times, when the navy of Great Britain had become great and victorious — from the davs of Elizabeth to William III., and thence to our own times ; and it was remarked by the officers present, how correctly he gave the details of the groat actions fought in the course of the last and present centuries. I believe, however, that the Queen and the ladies were not displeased to be released; and the King and his guests soon followed them. When in the drawing-room the King beckoned to me, and said, " Barrow, I think— nay, I am sure— I omitted one general action ; and you must know it." I assured him I was not aware of it. He said, " I fear I forgot to mention the name of Anson, and the aetioii he fought off Cape Finisterre : I am not sure I know the details correctly ; pray send me an account of it to-morrow." lie added, " iVnson was a good man, and knew his business well ; though not brilliant, he wns an excellent First Lord — improved the build of our ships, made more good officers, and brought others forward, in the se^'en years' war, than any of his predecessors had done. ITowe, Keppel, Saunders, and many others, were of his making." * * I have mentioned this drawing-room colloquy in a note to the preface of my 'Life of George Lord Anson,' which was pu'oliskd two years afterwards ; which ' Life,' I am pretty certain, aliiKwt to conviction, was undertaken in consequence of being reniiiMltd "I him then, and of having refreshed my memory in making out tlit' details of the noble lord's action for ids Majesty, as directed. Sect. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 375 loii)'? renuiulc'tl 111 the spring of 1837 his Majesty was seized with his old complaint the hay-fever, which in that season lie rarely escaped : but, about the middle of May ill that year, a most distressing complaint of the heart caused great alarm, and from this time he gradually got worse, his breathing became difficult, and about the middle of June the disease had made such progress that Sir II. lialford and Dr. Chambers had no hopes of his recovery, and on the 20tli of that month he expired in a gentle sl'^ep, resting on the Queen's arm ; this most amiable lady having, for the previous month, scarcely ever left his bedside, depriving herself of all manner of rest or repose ; the r.ieekness and calmness she strove to keep up were the admiration of all, while sorrow was preying on her heart. There is a narrative (printed in the Annual Register for 1837), dated Bushey-IIouse, the 14th of July — the production of the Ilev. Mr. Wood — detailing in an in- teresting and most aftecting manner the few last days of the King's illness. His patience and cheerfulness — his avowal of gratitude to the Almighty Tower, for having sustained him through much suffering — is beautifully expres'icd. Four days before his death, he observed to the Queen, " I have had some quiet sleep ; come and pray with me, and thank the Almighty for it." She asked him if it would be agreeable she should read the prayers to him ; his Majesty replied, " O yes, I should like it very much ; but it will fatigue you." Even in the midst of )iis suffering his benevolent disposition never forsook hun. " The poor Eton boys," he said, " will miss me at their regatta : Queen, I wish you to go." Then he said, " What a disappointment it will be to the public that none of the Royal Family will be pre- •f-i •:\ !- . .1- '■ ■ ■p. . I ■ 1 ," i.?;,. I ijs'i' r> 376 KING WILLIAM IV. [Skct. VII. sent at the Ascot races ! — you must appear on the course." The Queen appeared to consent, but d'^^^^er- mined not to leave him. A few days before his death the Archbishop of Can- terbury was sent for, at his request, and his Grace declared that " to witness the calmness and patience, under the most oppressive sufferings, was most C(hty- ing; and observed how thankful he was to the Al- mighty, for any alleviation of his pain." He received the sacrament; and his Grace expresses the pleasure he derived from v/itnessing the devotion his Alajesty paid to his religious duties on three different occa- sions. T\vo days before his death he said to Dr. Chambers, " This is the last day I shall see the sun go down." The day previous, as the attendant? were assisting to dress and support him, he said in a most aff'ectionate manner, " God bless you all !" He signed official papers to the very last day; three or four were brought to him on that day, one of which was a free pardon to a crimiiial. " Thus," says the narra- tive, " the closing scene of his life was beautiliilly and practically cxenipliffed by an act of mercy — that spirit of benevolence and forgiveness which shone with sncli peculiar lustre in his Majesty's character, and was so strongly reflected in the uniform tenor of his reign, Thus," says the writer, "expired, in the seventy-third year of his age, in firm relifince on the merits of his Redeemer, King William IV., a just and upright king, a forgiving enemy, a sincere friend, and a most gracious and indulgent nuister." In all of which, from the frequent experience I had of bis iiindness and benevolence, I most cordially agree; and his good feelings were not displayed merely on Sect. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 377 great and important occasions, but in matters of small moment, one of which I cannot forbear to mention. Among the numerous instances of benevolent feeling that myself and family experien3ed at the hands of his Majesty, I may here be allowed, in a memoir that is avowedly personal, to mention a little trait tbn,t could not fail to make a due impression on myself, my wife, and children. It unfortunately happened that Lady Barrow had been confined to the house almost from the accession of his Majesty, and of course had never been at court. Her complaint was some- what singular. Being one evening at the theatre, in Coutts's box, she was half-dozing in the corner close to the stage, and in the course of the pantomime a firing took place close to her. Though much startled at the time, she thought no more of it till the following morn- ing;, when a violent pain came on — the muscles of her neck were sprained, and so remained for some years ; hut, under the advice of Sir Benjamin Brodie, they gradually recovered their tone. The first visit she thought it her duty to make was to the Queen's drawing- room, and accordingly she sent her card, as usual, to the Chauiberlain's office. The day before was the levee, when the King stopped Sir George Staunton and said to him, with an expression of great delight, " Sir George, your friend Lady Barrow is coming hero to- morrow: I am very glad of it." And certainly the way in which he received her was more like that of a parent embracing a daughter than the King one of his hmnble subjects ; he called her back to express the great pleasure he felt to see her once more able to enjoy the society of her friends. TriHing as this may appear to one unconcerned, it made an impression on our mind'i never to be forgotten. I ! ■•■'■'^sssammuism mi . I w- i» . 378 KING WILLIAM IV, [Skct. VII. Indeed, from all that I have experienced of the clui- racter of his Royal Highness, from the time of his appointment as Lord High Admiral (the first know- ledge I had of him) to the day of his death (in 1837), when sovereign of these realms (dnring wliidi time he was })leased to honour me and my family with marked attention), I can honestly say that, after vcrv many opportunities of witnessing his kind-hearted and generous reception of all who had claims to prefer on account of their services or misfortunes, I rarely know of any one sent away dissatisfied with the maimer in which he had been received, how nmch soever disap- pointed; and that is saying a great deal for a First Lord of the Admiralty, every one of whom I have heard to declare, that the day appointed to receive naval officers might be looked upon as one marked with a black stone — as a day of misery ; being obliged to listen to so many tales of distress, without the power of relieving them. But the expression of kind feeling does nuieh to soflen the bitterness of disap})ointment, and is, I believe, seldom withheld. I am aware that many stories were at one time afloat about the rude and uncourteous demeanour of the Duke of Clarence. It may have been so in the early })art of his life, considering the vicious education that a yoiitli, at that time, was likelv to receive in common with his companions of the cockpit, which was not always imu li iinj)roved by a ste]) to the quarter-deck. It is possihle that his Royal Highness may have brought with liiiu on shore some portion of such rude qualifications. Ihit, be that as it may, it is well und'rstood, that froin the date of his niarriage with the amiable Princess Adelaide (now the Queen Dowager), the meekness of her dis- position, and the suavity of her maimers, produced the .l*j.j'',i ■'. Skct. VII,] THE ADMIRALTY, 379 best possible effects on her husband. And I may add, that no one was more conscious than was his Royal Highness of the very defective system of education in a bhip of war; and he often spoke to, me concerning the method to be adopted for its improvement, which I know he would have followed up, had he remained longer in the Admiralty. This improvement was in fact shortly after instituted, when the general taste for education began to spread through all classes of society. The introduction of suitable books into the navy, to form what is called the Seamen's Library, was the first step ; this was followed by the appointment of well-qualified instructors to all ships of the line and frigates, mostly chaplains or young men from college : so tl at officers now, while in pursuit of their })rofessional studies, may at the same time acquire or keep up a knowledge of the classics and mathe- matics ; and seamen's schoolmasters were appointed to all ships, for the instruction of the crews. The result has been, not only that the improvement of the officers of the British navy is most conspicuous in point of knowledge, but the seamen also in propriety of conduct, and decency of manners, within the last twenty or thirty years, so as to keep pace with that progress among the civil classes of society, which the general system of education has had the effect of producing. How very different was the condition of the Officers nf the Navy when Prince William Henry was sent on board the ' Prince George,' at the age of thirteen ! — for sent he M'as ; the good old King declaring that his son Henry should work his way to promotion from a midshipman, in the same routine as the most friendless youngster in the fleet. I^e served under Lord Keith, M 1 \ i 380 KING WILLIAM IV. [Skct. VII. f; Lord Hood, and Lord Nelson, and was engaged in several actions. When Don Juan de Langara was brought a prisoner on board the ' Prince George,' and was told that a smart young midshipman, whom he had observed vc^ry active on his duty at the gangway, was a prince of the blood, a son of King George III. — " Well," he said, " may England be mistress of the sea, when the son of her King is thus engaged in her Navy." The extraordinary difference — I may venture to call it improvement — that has tv ken place in the condition of naval cadets, midshipmen, mates, or by whatever name these young non-commissioned officers may have been designated, is very remarkable, compared with that in the days of his Royal Highness. The number of youngsters — many of them sons of the first families— who were in II. M. S. ' Lion,' on her voyage to China with Lord Macartney, had no comforts, nmch less luxuries, at their mess-table. Of this I had personal experience, as Lord Mark Kerr, Lord William Stuart, and two or three others of that ship were not satis- fied if I did iiot sometimes descend to the bottom of the ship, on Saturday evenings, to drink to " sweethearts and wives." A bit of cold salt beef and biscuit, with a can of grog, was frequently their repast; the only liiiht a tallow candle, stuck in the neck of a black-bottle, and a parcel of chests serving for seats: the scantiness of their meal was owing to our having no comnmnication with any land on the homeward voyage, except St. Helena, which had nothing to spare ; yet these young gentlemen made no complaint, but all were as cheerful and happy as mortals could be. Two thund)ed and torn books constituted their library: 'Robinson Crusoe' and ' Roderick Random ;' and they had not the benefit : « Sect. VII.] THE ADMIUALTY. 881 of cither chaplain or naval instructor ; two of these youngsters mentioned, when in command, were not in- ferior to the best officers in the service. From forty to fifty years after this, I visited the iiiidsliipnien's berths in several ships of war. I found thein comfortably and neatly fitted up, a display of good earthenware and table utensils, and also a small service of plate ; a library of books for information or amiiseinent; generally a chaplain, and alwa^'s a naval instructor, and sometimes both. These, however, were ships in harbour : but the foundation was here laid for a comfbrtLjle mess at sea. I liave men';ioned the kind and friendly disposition of the Lord High Admiral— indeed, I am not aware of his ever having given offence to any one — and he was particularly attentive to naval officers. Once, however, after he came to the throne, I was not a little mortified to witness a severe reproof-giving, in a full levee- moiu, to a distinguished flag-officer and most amiable and sensitive nobleman — Admiral Lord de Saumarez. Sir Richard Keats was a })articular and early friend and flivourite of King William, who, on his death., decided on distinguishing his funeral by inviting a great number of naval officers, and six flag-officers to bear the pall, one of whom was Lord de Saumarez. From some cause or other he failed to attend. On the first levee day that his Lordship made his appear- ance at Court, the King upbraided him before the wliolc assembly; and connected the name of Keats with that of De Saumarez in such a way, as to wound his sensitive mind far more deeply than the reproof for his absence. I was waiting in the lobby when his Lordsliip came down and approaching me in tears, told nie how he had been treated, and said he should •f*- ■■! 'i •■- m \ ■ , ! ■r;.. .„ I't '» ^ • 382 KING WILLIAM IV. [Sect. VI 1. never recover it ; that the King would not listen to his excuse, which was a valid one. I observed to liim that the Duke of Clarence, when at the Admiralty, was occasionally thrown off his guard and hasty, but was soon pacified ; and my advice to him would be, to ask, the following morning, for an audience, and to re- quest him to accept your apology, and permit you to explain. He did so ; and was quite delighted with the manner in which he was received. I suspect the King had incautiously let a word diop of how nmch he, of all others, owed to Keats; which, to a mind so sensitive as that of De Saumarez, woiikl wound him deeply; though the service which he supposed to have been alluded to, was that in which 8ir James Saumarez and Sir llichard Keats had been employed, and not a shadow of blame ever existed: on the contrary Keats, the junior officer, not oidy said, but put in print: — "The reception I met with was certainly of the most flattering kind. Sir James Sauuiarez received me himself at the gangway, and said aloud, ' That he could not find language to exj)rcss his sense of the services I had rendered my country last night.' " The service alluded to is one of a most extra- ordinary nature. On the 12th July, Sir James Saumarez weighed from Gibraltar with five sail of the line, one frigate, a sloop, and a brig. The enemy (Spanish) consisted of ten sail of the line and five frigates. Saumarez commanded the 'Cajsar,' and Keats tin * Superb.' The wind being strong and variable, the squadron separated before midnight; the "Ca!sar" only could be seen from the ' Superb ' indistinctly, about four miles astern. Keats observed to the first and second gunners that, " having been in action with Sect. VII.] THE ADMIRALTY, 383 the enemy by night, I predicted to them that which precisely/ took place — that the Spaniards would blow up: and that we should have more to apprehend from our own carelessness of powder, than from any efforts of the enemy." The ' Superb ' had been ordered to go a-head, and had outsailed the 'Civsar.' Coming up with the first Spanish ship, the ' Superb ' stood between her and the Sj)aiiish shore, and when he srot on her beam it was perceived that she was a three-decker, and had two ships marly on a range with her on her larboard side. The ' Ca'sar' was now lost sight of. To our first broadside "we were much surprised to receive no return of fire; aiul the more so, when the other ship, towards which she was sheering, opened her fire seemingly into the ship the 'Superb' had fired into. This unfortunate ship," adds Keats, " now sheered back again towards us, and fired, but more on the larboard than the starboard side; and in this situation received a second broadside from us. Confusion now seemed general among all of them ; for they now began firing in various situations and directions, and evidently at each other. The third broadside had not, I believe, been all discharged from us, when our opponent was evidently on fire. We teased to molest him." Afler this it was deemed necessary to sheer farther from her ; and it is coolly said, that the ' Superb's ' people availed themselves of the leisure which the oppor- tunity afforded to splice and knot some of the rigging that had been shot away. The unfortunate ship on fire continued to run for ten minutes or so, then came ?nddeiily — flew, as it were — to the wind, near some other of the enemy's ships ; " and this must have been '.tli n-iU I ii' ' i '.I " l^¥ s "'il!! I'.i * , ^'>''M 884 KING WILLIAM IV. [Sect. VH. the moment when the other first-rate got on board her ; the night was dark and stormy, and it may readily be supposed what was the fate of the second unfortiuiatc three-decker. "Whilst it was still dark," says Sir Richard Kc.its, " our attention was called to loud shrieks and cries of distress to windward, and presently a Spanish launch, filled with men, nearly all quite naked, came alongside, and scrambled into the ship. Attracted by the soii- tincl's light at my cabin door they huddled alt together, threw themselves on their knees, and with nplifted hands besought our protection ; or, in an act of devo- tion, were returning thaidvs to their Creator for their deliverance. We then learned that the launch be- longed to the 'Real Carlos,' into which all that could, ;is well from that ship as the ' San Ilermanegildo,' threw themselves to escape from the cjuflagration (for both were on fire)." It was found that they had received on board the ' Superb ' a second captain and eighteen men of the 'Ileal Carlos,' and an ensign and nineteen men of the 'San Ilermanegildo.' Some spirits were given to them ; the men ^verc sup- plied with slop-clothing, the officers re-clothcd, and Keats held it explained to them " that as, in their distress, they had sought our protection, I could venture to assure them that our Admiral woulu not consider any of them as prisoners ;" and they were not treated as such during the time they remained on board the ' Superb.' As none of them could speak either Freiuli or English intelligibly, and as the ' Superb ' was not very well off for Spanish interpreters, Sir R. Keats says, possibly the infornuition they obtained from them may not, in all its parts, be thoroughly correct. It states— Srrr. VII. THE ADMIUAI/rv. 3Su n\ and niiiekcii "That tlicy considered tlieniselves as secure from any attack that night. That some suspicion, as the 'Superb' apju-oached, arose on hoard the «l?/al Carlos:' for, on counting their srpiadron, they reckoned one more than their number ; that a report was made, liiit was disregarded by tlie Captain, wlio, v'tli several of the officers, were still at the table smoking after supi)er. That the Ca})tain with some other officers were killed or wounded by the ' Sni)crb's ' first broadside in the cabin, from which none of them moved till the ' Su- per!)' fired. That, regarding her destruction, it was said her fore-topmast was shot away the first broadside ; and being almost inunediately fired into by a ship on their larboard side also, their confusion was very great: and in firing, which they did from both sides, die fore-topsail, which was hanging down, caught fire, and occasioned the conflagration." The ship that fired into them was speedily in a blaze, 'vhicii their ship thought to be the English Admiral ; and it was said fore and nil, "The English Admiral is on fire ; let us go under his stern, and send 'em all to hell together;" and they believe that in that effort they ran foul of the ship on fire, and thus occasioned their own melancholy fate.* The 'Ca'sar' joined about one o'clock, and the s(iua(lron got back to Gibraltar about three in the morning. * This narrative is briefly extracted from one drawn up by Sir R. Keats at the request of Mr. Ben. Tucker. 2c i^; ' * ■ • A.t ;■■- ■ I * . t,M l-i • » ... >■! • ■ '.I J ■ . 886 liOHElJT, VISCOUNT MELVir.Li;. [Slct, Mil Section VIII. llouKRT, Viscount Melville. SECOND AD.MINISTIIATION. Si'pt. 19, 1828 — Nov. 25, 1830. Atlin. Ut. Hon. Sir G. Cockuuiin. . .First Naval Lord, llijjiit lion. .1. W. CuoKKii First Secretary. As Lord Melville's rosifiiiation had opened the door for the introduction of his Royal Highness the Duko ot Clnrence into the hij;h and conspicuous situation ot' Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of (ircat Britain and Ireland, so the retirement of the Duke afforded the op])ortunity of Lord Melville heiiiir, a second time, called upon to assume the place of First Lord of the Admiralty. His patent Mas dated the IDtli Septemher, 1H2S, and continued in force till the :2')tli November, IS.'iO, when he was suj)erseded by Sir James (irahani ; the Duke of Wellington's govern- ment having given way to that of the Earl Clri^y. Nothing particular ha])])ened during the two years that Lord Melville's second presidency contiiuied over the affairs of the Admiralty. Visitations of the Dock- Yards, and a few changes in the system of their niaiiafre- ment, with some ])arti.al retrenchments, took j)lac(", but no warlike preparations were undertaken in these two years — peace prevailed both at home and abroad. Tlic Admiralty, however, in this period of inactivity, was Skct. \ III. Tin; ADMIlfAI/lY. ;j87 iifiton s Si'ovcn Inset with projectors of all (Icscriptioiis. Stcain-vcsscls vtre fast increasing' in iiiiiiiber, sonic for puMic {iiicl (itlu'rs lor private purposes; and all the };(ar ajjixr- t;iiiiiiii? to til -ni, the cnt:,incs themselves, the hoilcrs, the iiKide of placinj; them, the pjiddle-wheels, the ])ad(llc- lioxes, various kinds of propellers - all of them had a multitude ot proji'ctors, a class of persons who arc never satislied, if each of their individual ])rojccts he not })rac- tiially put to the test, however obvious it may he to a disinterested person, capable of t^iving a sound opinion, that the invention, as it is called, is bad in principle and worthless in design. To avoid the enormous ex- ptiisc that would be incurred by subnutting these |in»je('ts to the test of experiment, the inventors were now gener;illy given to undcrstiind, that facilities would bcaHbrded in thi' Dock-Yards tor preparing and trying their crotchets, but oidy at their own expense, and that a limited time would be allowed, vvheu they must be removed at their own cost ; which liad the good effect ot reducing the nund)er of useless projects. Then the dry-rot doctors, with their numerous imstrmus, were the most pertinacious of all, and their various j>rojects to exjjcl the disease innumerable. All tiie mineral acids and the mineral substances, solutions ()t'c(,))per, iron, zinc, lead, were j)roposed, in which the wood already diseased, or to ])revent disease, was to be steeped. Some of our wise men in the Dock- Yards took it into their heads that steeping loads of timber ill the sea would cure or prevent the dry-rot — the iiicdiuni in which the shi])s themselves would perma- iiiiitly be soaked ; others would i^tcam out the enemy, and others again kde it out ; as many different opinions were pronounced as to the nature of the 2 c 2 388 IJOHEItT, VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sect. VIII. .:T-4,: i> - ' I » disease or the cause of it. For a long time the dry- rot was a fungus, and their whole artillery was levelled at the nuishrooni, and thus the disease was to he cured at the expense of the material, in which it was suj)- posed to he lodged. We arc at length hecomc as wise as our forefathers, and have learned, that the hest and only preservative of timher, is to fell it at a proper time, when the sap is at rest and hardened in the wood ; and then, to let it undergo a long and gradual dry-seasoning. But Lord Melville was ever anxious to patronize any project decidedly advantageous to the Navy. In faet, it is to him that we owe the lirst introduction of the a})plication of steam, as a locomotive power, to the ships of the Navy. So early as the year 1815 he directed the Navy lioard to cause a sloop to he huilt of the name of 'Congo,' and to order a steam-engine suitable for her from Bolton i id Watt, to he used as a trial in a 3hip of war. When ready, early in the followiiiii year, the engine was ordered to he sent to Plymouth, where it might be useful for pumping water. The ' Congo' was ordered to be fitted up as a sailing- vessel, to be commanded by Ca})tain Tucker on his intended expedition to explore the Afi-ican river of that name. What objections may have occasioned this change I forget, but while this was going on, the ingeiiions Brunei took uj) the question of steam-navigation; stated all the difficulties that occurred to him — one of which was the external fitting, or propelling ap- paratus, and he undertook to obviate this ohjcctioii by a practical experiment. There had been a steam vessel built a couple of years before, called the Sl'CT. VIII.] TIIK ADMIIJALTY. ;3H9 steaiu-iiavigation ; ' Regent,' I believe by a private individual, and pur- chased as a packet to run from Margate to London. He says, "On tbe 9th July, 18 IG, the 'Regent' lefb Margate with a strong gale of wind blowing right a-liead, and against a very strong tide. When out at soa the gale increased very much, and the sea broke over the vessel for several hours. The covering of the wheels was stove in ; they, however, received no injury, though they were now and then overwhelmed. The steani-engino yielding gradually, and for a moment, to u greater power, was soon in action again." Lord Melville, in reply to Mr. l^runel's encouraging letter, says, "That the Board deem it unnecessary to inter, at present, into the consideration of the question, as to how far the power of the steam-engine may be made applicable to the general purposes of navigation ; Itiit as it would be attended with material advantage to his Majesty's service, if it could be used for tbe pur- pose of towing ships of war out of harbour, in the Thames or Medway, and at l\)rtsmouth and Plymouth, when they v/ould be prevented from sailing by con- trary winds, desire him to submit his ideas on that part of the subject, if it appears to him to be prac- ticable." To this Mr. Brunei answers, by recommend- ing that, as this is a practical experiment, the 'Regent' (laid up for the winter) should be employed under the direction of some competent person. The trial was liade; and from this period maybe dated the iiitro- fhiction of steam-navigation into the English Navy. Lord Melville was now so fully convinced of the great utility, which the naval service would derive from the application of steam as a proj)elling power, that he ordered a small vessel to be built at Deptfbrd, by Mr. 390 ItOBKIlT, VISCOUNT MKLVILLE. [Sl'CT. VIII. if- '■ f; '1- -(•^. .. ■ , 1 ' St '!■' . Oliver Lang, to be called the ' Comet,' of the burtluii of 238 tons, and to have engines of eighty horse poMor. She was built accordingly, anci ready for sea in 1822; and this little ship has been usefully and constantly employed ever since, and no complaint made either of the hull, the engines, or the paddle-wheels: and she is at this moment always ready for service at the shurtost notice. About this time Lord Stanhope, with his coadjutor Fulton, were dabbling in trials to make boats move hv steam; and the latter set oft' for Scotland on learning that a boat on the Forth and Clyde Canal was navi- gated by wheels, the impelling force being that of steam, and constructed by one Symington, an assistant to Patrick Miller, of Dalswinton ; who, in 1/87, liad published his account of working canal boats by wheels and cranks: and wherein he observes, "1 have reason to believe, that the power of the steam-engine may be applied to work the wheels." But the fact is, that neither Lord Stanhope, nor Fulton, uor the American Livingstone, nor Patrick Miller, or his assistant Symington, have the least elaiiii of priority to the application of steam and wheels llir propelling vessels through the water. Long before any of these had concerned themselves, there was printed in London a small volume, bearing date 1/37, under the following title: — 'Description and Draught of a new- invented Machine for carrying vessels or ships out of or into any narlxmr, port, or river, against wind or tide, or in a calm ; for which his Majesty (leorge II. has granted letters patent for tlie benefit of the Author I'nr the sj)ace of fom-teen years, liy Jonathan Hulls.' Frefixed to this little book is the " Draught " of a Skct. VIII.] TIIK ADMIRALTY. 391 stout boat with a chimney, as at present (smoking), paddle-wheels on each side not far from the stern, and ti-oiu the stern is a tow-line fixed to the foremast of a large three-masted ship, which the steam-boat is towing through the water. There can be no doubt, then, that Jonathan Ihills is the real inventor of the deaiii-boat. But how happens it that nothing n)ore appears to have been heard of this valuable invention ? The ignorance of the time is not a sufficient ex- planation. kSome of our engineers of the present day attempt to explain it by assuming that, though the happy thought which produced the invention is no<: to be questioned, yet it is probable enough that the boat and the ship in tow, as we see them in the print, ex- isted only on the ])a])er ; and that Jonatlian Hulls had not the means himselfj or the support of others, or could not obtain that coulidence which a new invention requires, and which alone would enable him to carry his valuable and very remarkable invention into practice. IJut even the first discoverer, as we Englishmen deem him to be, of the power of steam for moving \veiglits, lifting water, &c., as well as of its locomotive power, has, in later cimes, been a subject of doubt and (lijjpute. Not only has the story of the Marquis of Wor- cester, as told by himselti been called in question, but the I'rench, even before his time, and M. Arago in our own time, have claimed the discovery for another — one iSaluuion de Caus, a celebrated engineer in the time of Louis XII [.; to whom he dedicated a book pub- lished in 1G15, entitled — 'An Account of Moving Forces, with various Machines as well for Use as for rieasure.' This work is undoubtedly prior, by nearly m .•V. .1 ,.■1. I ■ » - 1'- •692 UOBEUT, VISCOUiNT MELVILLK. [Skct. Vlll. half a century, to Worcester's ' Century of Inventions,' which was not published until 1663. This would prove nothing against the Marquis's discovery, unless De Cans has mentioned stcain among his " moving forces," of which I profess my ignorance, not having seen his treatise. But the charge of the Marquis having leanit Ins invention from De Caus himself is curious, and, if true, as it appears to be, decides the question against him. In an amusing French work, 'La France Ilis- torique,' &c., &c., jnu' Jlenrl Bertlioud, I find a vcrv curious and interesting letter, from Madame Marion de rOrme to her husband the Marqvis de Ciiuj-^Mars, in which she says, " I have done the xionours of Paris to your English Lord the Marquis of Worcester. I have led him — or rather he has led me — from one curiosity to another : always making choice of the most sad and the niost serious, speaking little and listening with marked attention. "We went to the Bicetre, where he pretends to lia\e discovered in a madman a man of genius. ILid he not been raving, I verily believe your Manpiis would lave asked his liberty, to take him to Loiulou. In crossing the court where mad j)eople are kept, more dead than alive from fear, I observed, on the other side of a strong barrier, an ugly face, screaming out — 'I am not mad ! I have made a discov(!ry that would enrich the country that should carry it into ell'eet." ' And what is his discovery ? ' I asked the keeper. ' Ah ! ' said he, ' you would never guess — it is the vapour of boiling water. His name,' continued he, 'is Salomon de Caus \ he came from Normandy, liji'i" years ago, to present a memorial to the King of the wonderful effect of steam for turning machinery, '.• . ,I,K Si:cT. Vlll.l THE ADMIRALTY. ;}93 driving carriages, and a thousand other Mondcrful things; but the Cardinal drove him away without listening to him. From that time he has pursued the Cardinal wherever he went, so that he ordered him to 1)0 shut up in the Bicctre as a madman, where he has been three years and a half. lie has written a book on his admirable discovery, which I have here.' Lord Worcester is quite ravished with ^t; and after read- ing a few pages, 'This person,' he said, 'is no mad- man; and, in my country, instead of shutting him up, they would heap up riches ujjon him : bring me to him, I wish to question him.' lie was taken to him, and returned sorrowful and ])ensive. ' At present,' he said, 'he is very nuid ; misfortune and cnpt'vity have for ever estranged his reason ; you have made him mad — but when you threw him into this j)rison you there buried the greatest genius of your age.' " From this time, it is said, the Marquis of Worcester never ceased talking of Salomon de Cans, and well he might talk and think of this poor maniac if the story be true. The writer of the letter, the person it is written to, and the genius of whom it treats, were all well- known characters of the time. De Cans was a dis- tinguished engineer and architect, is known to have been the author of several ingenious Morks ; one of them is ' Les Kaisons des Fcn'ces Mou\antes, tvc.,' above mentioned, which went through several editions, and was published in several languages. He also jmblished four or live other works, one of wiiich, entitled ' Institution llarnionique,' he dedicated to Queen Anne of Eng- land. The above letter, there can be little doubt, is Ij^onuine. Marion de TOrme was a character Avell known among the beaiw cttprits of Paris and the Court. *:!.! 1^. i . i J. ■ If i " . '■■■t- ^- « 394 UOHKK'l', VISCOUNT MELVILLK. LSkct. VIII, She was supjmsed to have been j)riviitcly married h» the Manjuis de Ciiiq Marti, but thought by some to be his mistress. She was accounted a woman of p;roat talent for wit, and was the friend and associate of the celebrated Ninon. Arago asserts that De Cans \v;is the first to discover the ])ower of steam ; any one, even Tapin, with his dij/cster, was an inventor, accord- ing to Arago, rather than aii Englishman. If De rOrme's story be true, Worcester's story of the cover of the cooking-pot being blown up the chimney is indeed hloivn up, and nuist be considered as a roniaiiee. We English, however, are inclined to believe what the Manpiis has declared to be the fact; and that liis assurance may be relied on, that "he desired not to set down any other men's inventions;" and, moreover, that " if he had, in any case, acted on them, to nominate likewise the inventor." Here I leave it. Not only the Board of Admiralty, but the Navy at large, is indebted to the Viscount Melville, I'or his appointment of that excellent olKcer, Ca})tain (now Kear-Admiral) Beaufort, to the important situation of Ilydrographer to the Admiralty. Captain llurtl died in the year 1823, and a sufficiently ([ualiliKl officer not being found to fill the vacant situation, Lord Melville appointed Captain Parry twice, or, I believe, a third time, as Acting Ilydrographer. After the resignation of the Lord High Admiral, when Lord Melville, for the second time, became First L(jr(l, he deemed it highly expedient that this important office should be ])ermanently filled np, ami Avith the most (pialified officer that couhl be Uniiul. Various applications were made and duly considered, but no choice was fixed until 1829, when the can- *< i Sirr. VI 11. THK ADMIIiALTV. .'{!)'. (lidates were reduced to two, both of tlieiii con- sidered to be uiiexcej)tioiiable : these wen; Captain Potcr Ileywood and Ca])tain Francis Bciaufbrt. Lord Melville, being a cautious and conscientious man, felt a reluctance to take the decision on himselfj and re- (|iiosted IVIr. Croker and um to name the one \vhoiu \vc considered, in all respects, best (pialified and most s\iited for tho office, and he would immediately a])point him. We had little or no hesitation in assigning the palm to Captain Beaufort. It could not be otherwise, as far as I was concerned, that my mind should at once be made uj). In Mr. Yorke's reign I had, at his iTijuest, selected Captain Beaufort and his ship, out of the whole Mediterranean fleet, to be sent to survey au unknown portion of the coast of Syria ; of which, in iliu! time, he j)ublished an account, under the name of 'Karamania,' containing, not merely the survey, but also an historical account of the nunu;rous renuiins of anti(iuity, on the several ])oints examined on that coast; a hook superior to any of its kind in whatever language, and one which passed triumphantly through the ordeal of criticism in every nation of Euro])e.* He was immediately a])pointed llydrographer of the Admiralty, and still remains — and it is to be hoped \vill long reiuain — to execute the laborious duties of an office which, I am persuaded, no other would be found to do in that clear, precise, and efficient manner in which they have long been and still are executed. In tiiet, I cannot hesitate in giving an opinion that Ad- miral Beaufort has no etpial in that line, and not many in most other branches of science. * ' A Brief Description of the Soutli Coast of iVsiii Minor, and ot'tlie IJemains of Antiquity,' &c. '~-Assm>: *!-L- •M(i UOUEirr, VISCOUNT mklvillk. [S|.;n\ VIII. ,; i ■' i ' '■ ,1 ■ . - 1 1^; ,; i ■ :<*' I cannot here omit the opportunity of giving to tlioso, who may condescend to peruse my little volume, the following clearly exj)ressed letter of the late Ladv Sj)eiicer, describing with great accuracy, from having once only heard it read, a most interesting letter of great length and circumstantial detail, on a suhjoct most curious, mysterious, and solemn. The letter of Lady Spencer is as follows : — " Spencer House, Dec. G, 1829. " My dear Mr. Barrow, " I am not going to ask a job of you, hut to request your assistance to obtain from Captain Beau- fort, the very intelligent and eminent hydrograjjliL-r, actually at the head of his peculiar de])artment, the favour I am exceedingly anxious to procure from him, " Some years since, my dear and regretted friend Dr. W. WoUaston showed me a most interesting and extraordinary letter, addressed to him from Captain Beaufort, in which he had, at the ])articular recjiicst of Dr. Wollaston, described his own sensations and thoughts, of body and mind, while in the act of drown- ing, when a young man, in Portsmouth harbour, lie was happily ])reserved from a fatal termination of this alarming accident; but he one day described so vividly and so strikingly his state of mind while in danger of death under water, and again while in the process of recovery on shipboard, that Dr. Wollaston was instantly solicitous and earnest to persuade him to write down the precise details, which he had so admirably related to him. " Captain Beaufort yielded to his entreaties, and wrote to him the letter which Wollaston read to me, SiTT. VIIl.J THE ADMIRALTY. 397 Dec. G, 1829. and of which ho promised to give nic a copy, on my eagerly petitioning him to do so. Alas ! he was seized hy disease and died before he performed his promise. Now my present object in troubling yon, my dear Sir, is to entreat you to discover if Captain Beaufort would kimlly bestow on me a copy of this highly interesting narrative. Wollaston told me that he was very anxious to prepare that, which he possessed, for th(; Royal So- ciety; and this leads me to suppose that Captain PK'aufort was not unwilling to impart it to his friends, since it had bc(Mi in contem})lation to prepare it for the public eye. God knows ! he might safely exhibit such a description of fortitude and rectitude of thought as this beautiful accomit of his mind disjdays when in the ftarful peril of death. Yet I feel that my re(piest to possess it requires the intermediate assistance which I venture to claim from you. " Sir Henry Ilalford has urged me so strongly to attempt to ac(piire this valuable document, that he gave me courage to make the attempt. Tie is pursuing a pecidiar subject, to which this very curious statement of tluts relative to the human mind, while struggling with death, would be of invaluable assistance. In conversa- tion with him on this topic, I naturally mentioned the letter Wollaston had shown to me ; and th result of our conversation was a strong desire of obtaining a copy of it. You now have all I can say to excuse my present application. Will you forgive me ? I feel sure that you will. Believe me, my dear Sir, '' Entirely yours, " Lavinia Spencer." I shall now insert a copy of the letter sought lor by her Ladyshi}), which has been kindly given to me. •;4. ; I . ; ^.1 l.~N. 'M ■ s.':H i '^ » <! - . ■ 1 , -' r' ■ •^. i . . i '■; «■' ■ • 398 HOUKUT, VISCOUNT MKLVILI-K. [Skct. VIII. at my i'C(iiiost, l>y Admiral TJcaufort; and Nvliicli for its composition and style, but still more tor its siibjeet, is deserving of and will receive the a]i])ro- barion and admiration of all who may peruse it ; being no connnon subject nor handled in a coiniiiou manner. Copy of a Lotter to Dr. W. Ilydo W< lla.ston, wiitteti, I tliink. in 182.5, iuitl rutunied to me by his Executor in 182{>. — F. B. " Dear Dr. Wollastou, " The following circumstances which atti'iidcil my being drowned have been drawn up at your desire; they had not struck me as being so curious as you con- sider them, because, from two or three ])ersoiis, who like myself had been recovered from a similar state, I have heard a detail of their feelings, which resembled mine as nearly as was consisteijt with our different con- stitutions and dispositions. " Many years ago, when I was a youngster on i)o;ir(l one of his Majesty's ships, in Portsmouth harbour, at'tur sculling about in a very small boat, I was endeavourinn to fasten her a'Ongside the ship to one of the scuttK;- rings; in foolish eagerness 1 ste])ped upon the gunwale, the boat of course upset, and I fell into the water, nnd not knowing how to swim, all mv efK)rts to lav hold either of the boat or of the floating sculls were fruitless. The transact^ion had not been observed by the sentinel on the gangway, and therefore it was not till the tide li.id drifted me some distance astern of the ship that a man in the foretop saw me sj)lashing in the water, and gave the alarm. The first lieutenant instantly and gallaiitlv jumped overboard, the carpenter followed his exaiii|)le, and the gunner hastened into a boat and pulled after them. Sr.rr. VIII.] THE ADMIItALTY. 399 "With tlie violent but vain attcm])ts to make myself lu'jinl I had swallowed much water; I was soon cx- liiuistcd by my stru};f^les, and before any relief reached me I had sunk below the surface — all hoj)e had fled — all exertion ceased — and I fc/t that I was drowning. " So far, these facts were either partially remembered after my recovery or suj)})lied by those who had latterly witiK'SK.d the scene; for during an interval of such aiiitation a drowning person is too much occuj)ied in catching at every ])assing straw, or too nuich absorbed !)V alternate hope and despair, to mark the succession of events very accurately. Not so, however, with the iii'jts which immediately ensued; my mind had then undergone the sudden revolution which appeared to voii so remarkable — and all the circumstances of which are now as n ividly fresh in my memory as if they had (iteiUTed but yesterday. " From the uu)ment that all exertion had ceased — wliieh I imagine was the immediate consequence of caiii])lete suft'ocation — a calm feeling of the most per- fect trancpiillity superseded the previous tumultuous sensations — it might i)e called apathy, certainly not resifiuation, for drowning no longer appeared to be au evil— I no longer thought of being rescued, nor was I in any b(,(lily pain. Outhe contrary, my sensations were iiinv of rather a ])leasurable cast, j)artaking of that dull liiit contented sort of feeling which j)recedcs the sleep produced by fatigue. Though the senses wx^e thus deadened, not so the mind; its activity seemed to be invigorated, in a ratio which tlelies all description — for thought rose after thought with a rapidity of succession that is not only indescribable, but probably inconceiv- able, by any one who has not himself been in a similar ■|.f',V :-|K.. ■■■■•( 'i'- 'Ik.'] ! I : j ;!• •loo l.'OHERT, VISCOUNT MELVILI-K. [Skct. VIII. sitiKitioii. The course of those thoughts I can ovcu now in a grent measure retraco — the event whicli had just taken phice — the awkwardness that had jjnxhiccd it — the bustle it must have occasioned (for I had oh- served two persons jump from the chains)— the eif'ect it would have on a most allectionate father — the maiiiKr in which he would disclose it to the rest of the faiiiilv — and a thousand other circumstances minutely as.^o- ciated with home, were the tirst series of reflections that occurred. They took then a wider range—our last cruise — a former voyage, and shi})wreck — mv school — the progress I had made there, and the time I had misspent — and even all my boyish j)ursuits and adventures. Thus travelling backwards, every j)ast incident of my life seemed to glance across my recol- lection iu retrograde succession ; not, however, in nici-c outline, as here stated, i)ut the })icture filled u}) "irii every minute and collateral feature ; in short, the wliolu period of my existence seemed to be placed heturi' me in a kind of panoramic review, and each act of it seemed to be accompanied by a consciousness of ri^lit or wrong, or by some reflection on its cause or its con- sequences ; indeed, many trifling events which had been long forgotten then crowded into my imagination, and with the character of recent familiarity. " May not all this be some indication of the almost infinite power of memory with which we may awaken in another world, and thus be compelled to conteniplatt.' our past lives? Or might it not in some degree war- rant the inference that death is only a change or modi- fication of our existence, in which there is no real pau^e or interruption ? IJut, however that may be, one cii- cumstauce was highly remarkable ; that the innumerable SitCT. VIII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 401 ideas which flashed into my mind were all retro- s|)ective — yet I had been religionsly brought up — my hopes and fears of the next world had lost nothing of their early strength, and at any other period intense interest and awful anxiety would have been excited by the mere probability that I was floating on the threshold of eternity: yet at that inex])lical)le moment, when I had a full conviction that 1 had already crossed that threshold, not a single thought wandered into the future — I was wrapt entirely in the past. " The length of time that was occupied by this de- luge of ideas, or rather the shortness of time into which they were condensed, I cannot now state with pre- cision, yet certainly two minutes could not have elapsed from the moment of sutt'ocation to that of my being hauled up. " The strength of the flood tide made it expedient to pull the boat at once to another ship, where I under- went the usual vulgar process of emptying the water by letting my head hang downwards, then bleeding, chafing, and even administering gin ; but my sub- mersion had been really so brief) tliat, according to the account of tlij lookers on, I was very quickly restoret' to animation. " My feelings while life was returning were the reverse in every point of those which have been de- scribed above. One single but confused idea — a mise- rable belief that I was drowning — dwelt upon my mind, instead of the multitude of clear and definite ideas which had recently rushed through it — a helpless anxiety— a kind of continuous nightmare seemed tc press heavily on every sense, and to prevent the forma tion of any one distinct thought — and it was with diffi 2 D 402 ROBERT, VISCOUNT MELVILLE. [Sect. VIII. i . ^■1, i. '^^''■ji- culty that I became convinced that I was really alive. Again, instead of being absolutely free from all bodily pain, as in my drowning state, I was now tortured by pain all over me ; and though I have bt en since wounded in several places, and have often submitted to severe surgical discipline, yet my sufferings Wv^re at that time far greater ; at least, in general distress. On one occasion I was shot in the lungs, and after lying on the deck at night for some hours bleeding from other wounds, I at length fainted. Now as I felt sure that the wound in the lungs was mortal, it will appear obvious that the overwhelming sensation which accom- panies fainting nmst have produced a perfect conviction that I was then in the act of dying. Yet nothing in the least resembling the operations of my mind v,he)i drowning then took place ; and when I began to re- cover, I returned to a clear conception of my real state. " If these involuntary expcrimenij on the operation of death aftbrd any satisfaction or interest to you, they will not have been suffered quite in vain by " Yours very truly, " F. Beaufort." This letter of Admiral Beaufort must give rise to various suggestions. It proves that the spirit of man may retain its full activity — we may perhaps say an in- creased activity — when freed from the trammels of the flesh ; at least, when all the functions of the body are deprived of animal power, and the spirit has become something like the type and shadow of that, which ve are taught to believe concerning the immortality of the soul. It is a curiour fact, but a very conceivable one, Sect. Vlil.] THE ADMIRALTY, that, as he says, " When I had a full conviction that I had already crossed the threshold of eternity, not a suigh thought wandered into the future — I was wrapt entirely in the past." The inference to he drawn from this seems to he, th^t the impression of things or ideas that had actually happened was strong, and afforded no vooni for the admission of anticipation ; that the former alone, that is the past, altogether gave effort to the memory — in fact, memory can have no concern with the future. But that does not lead us far, or help us iiiiich ; it being the effort of a man all but dead, in ^vhom we have here a separation of the spirit from the corporeal substance. I do not believe that the practical philosopher Dr. WoUaston threw any light on the subject to Captain Beaufort, or that Lady Spencer acquired much from Sir Henry Halford ; and pf rhaps it is best that we should content ourselves in concluding, with Shak- speare (who is rarely wrong), — " We are such stuff as dreams are made of." 2d2 ^i\ 1 > pi < •' :1 ' i ! ■si ! I : 404 SIR JAMES GKAHAM. LSect, IX. Section IX. Sir James Graham, Bart. Nov. 15, 1830— June 11, 1834. Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy. , ..First Naval Lord. Tlie Hon. George Elliot First Secretary. «, As the Lord High Admiral had been the immediate successor of the Viscount Melville in the inferior office of First Lord of the Admiralty, which his Lordship had held for many years, so Lord Melville, by re- turning to it, relieved the Lord High Admiral, as soon as the latter should be prepared to send in hk resignation, as he had manifested a desire to do for some time. His Lordship succeeded ; but he held it only this second time for two years, when he made way for a Whig opponent in the person of Sir James Graham. When that party came into office, on a former occasion, and the Earl Grey was placed at tiie head of the Admiralty, it was understood that a total change of men and n]easures, in the civil departments of the Navy, would immediately be carried into efi'ect; something of the nature of those that were supposed to have been contemplated by Lord St. Vincent, when he was First Lord of the Admiralty ; but to accomplish which he either found the difficulty too strong, or could find none ready to second him effectually in the execu- -J ri (•• Sec-.-. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 405 tioii ; at any rate each of the two noble Lords left office without venturing to v.ndertake any part of the change. Lord Grey, however, it was said, had now come into office, as First Minister of the Crown, with an under- standing — or, at least, a determined resolution — that the changes suggested by Lord St. Vincent should be accom- plished ; and it was whispered in Downing-Street that, to eifect the great design, he had succeeded in procuring the aid of a gentleman to be- placed at the head of the Naval departments, civil and military, whose nerves were supposed to be equal to any difficulty, or to repel any obstruction he might meet with, iti carrying out certain measures of such a nature as would recpiire all the firm- ness and decision that he or any other might possess ; and that as many of the changes in contemplation would prove extremely obnoxious to the existing naval au- thorities, all or most of the officials might anticipate being brought within the sphere of their operation. The gentleman who was bold enough to undertake the management of this Herculean task was understood to be Sir James Graham, who, it would seem, had never gone through the ordeal of a public office — the usual initiation for enabling the young aspirant to make him- self acquainted with the routine of public business, so as to qualify him for some of the higher departments of the State. So numerous, indeed, have been these young senators aspiring to a seat in the several Boards of Admiralty, that this office was jocosely called " a school for sucking statesmen." Sir James, however, had been in Parliament for some time, and once made a speech remarkable only for the mis- take on which it was grounded : it was an insinuation that Privy Councillors pocketed thousands of the public ( 1 rf i / r . . .;. -~'i :■ 406 SIR JAMES GRAHAM. [Sect. IX, money for doing little or nothing; finding the mistake, he, no doubt, was sorry for it, and now quite prepared to make his entry into the same corps. In earlier life, as he told me, he had acted as private Secretary to Lord William Bentinck, in the Mediterranean. It is very probable, therefore, that the official juniors considered it a daring step, to mount at once to one of the pinnacles of power, and to undertake the guidance of that great and complicated machine the British Navy, and all its concerns civil and military. Sir James did not, however, hesitate to assume the task, arduous as it must have appeared, and, by a change of system, likely to become somewhat hazardous. But Lord Grey h:iti a good opportunity of observing his talents ; he was not only a staunch Reformer, but was one of the principals employed in concocting and passing the Reform Bill. The first member oi' the new Board whom I saw, and from whom L had any certain information respecting the new First Lord, was Sir Thomas Hardy, who, I found, was intended to be the First Naval Lord. One day he called on me at the Admiralty, at the particular re(i[uest, he said, of Lord CJrey, to say that his Lord- ship earnestly hoped I had no intention of leaving my present situation, and to assure me how much he regretted that any regulation should stand in the way of advancing me to the First Secretaryship. I begged Sir Thomas to convey my thanks for the kind recollection and good opinion of which his Lord- ship had been pleased to make him the welcome mes- senger ; but that, being taken rather by sur})risc, I should wish to defer sending any answer till to-morrow, when X would cither write or pay my respects to Lord • , 11.'' .i f'.;,.-: ' l» Sect. IX.] THE a:::iiralty. 407 Grey. "lu the mean time pray assure his Lordship that I feel very grateful for his good opinion ; and have not been, nor ever shall be, forgetful of the kind consideration I experienced at his hands on a former painful and trying occasion." Sir Thomas Hardy seemed to be somewhat disap- pointed, and said, " Pray, now, let me say to Lord Grey that you will accept his offer." I assured him it would be no little inducement on finding that he him- self was to be one, and the principal one, of the Board- Room officers ; " and I may tell you, Sir Thomas, that I have not the least desire to lead an ina^itive life ; and that a Whig Board or a Tory Board, as you hint at, while I am in office, will be pretty nmcli the same to me. The following morning, about nine o'clock, as I was opening the letters, a card was brought in to jue — " Sir James Graham." He introduced himself by saying, "Though I have not yet had the pleasure of your personal acquaintance, your name is familiar to me, and has frequently been mentioned most favourably, at my own house, and by Lady Graham, who has met and conversed with you often at Lord Bathurst's." — " Yes, and most agreeably. Sir James, I do assure you." — " You will readily guess the purpose of this early visit ; it is the anxiety I am under to prevail on you to remain in yonr present official situation ; and the fear I have^ that your long attachment to a different party from that to which I belong, may induce you to take leave with the rest of your colleagues." I replied, " Let me assnre you, Sir James, that the only political party to which I belong, and which I have openly and honestly avowed, is that which, by its measures, upholds the Wf 40t SIR jamp:s graham. [Sect. IX. 1 ( f i'' j ;i.f . « :f.'. i-|..^.' r.. P 1 ■; 'i''!f''.r .• .'' i • ■ f • •l> «. credit of the Admiralty. In truth, I am neither rich nor reckless enough to become a party-man. AVhig and Tory are pretty much the same to me. ' Tros Tyriusve milu nullo discrimiiie agetur.' " " Then," said he, " let me hope you will remain where you are ; you shall possess my entire confidence and friendship, and I will do my utmost to make your situation agreeable and comfortable." In short, there appeared in his manner so much ban- hommie, candour, and sincerity, that I answered at once, " I will remain." I le took me by the hand, and said, " You have relieved me from a load of anxiety, and, by assenting to my entreaty, from the unpleasant task imposed on me of coming to you with some- thing like a royal command. I may now tell you that I was with the King last evening, when he said, ' Go to Barrow to-morrow morning ; and tell him that it is my desire that he will not think of leaving the Admiralty.' " He then said, " I think it is also but right to tell you — and Lord Grey desired I should — that a great change is immediately to be brought about in the civil departments of the Navy, with which I am very ini- perfectl) »\cquaintea, and from what I can learn from my colleagues few of them are much better in that re- spect ; I must, therefore, rely entirely on your assist- ance to enable me to gain some insight into the business we are about to undertake. I may mention, that the ■whole of the Civil Boards at Somerset-House are to be abolished, and various changes to be made in all the de- partments of the naval service." I observed that it had been mooted in former Boards of Admiralty, whether Sect. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 409 the Victualling and Transport Boards might not, with advantage, be merged in the Navy Board. He said, "No; that is not sufficient. Lord Grey and the Cabinet have decided, that they shall all be abolished, as Boards, and that the Navy Board and all others shall merge in the Board of Admiralty." I asked what provision was to be made for superintending the multi- tude of details, which it would be impossible for any Board of Admiralty, with all the additional strength of Lords, Secretaries, and Clerks put upon it, to per- form ; " perhaps it is meant that each branch of the naval service shall have a separate superintending officer, to be charged with his own individual respon- sibility ?" " You have exactly hit it," he said, appa- rently pleased ; " that was precisely Lord Grey's idea, expressed to me nearly in the same words — ' indi- vidual responsibility ' — instead of the combined and often contradictory acts and opinions of a Board or eight or ten persons; and o)i this 6«.v/,v," he added, "I must beg of you to sketch out the outline of a plan." I should have mentioned that the new Secretary, Captain the Hon. George Elliot, had accompanied Sir Thomas Hardy, but remained outside. I went out to him ; and he very candidly and with great condescension said that he was not exactly lit for the situation of Secre- tary, as his life had been mostly spent at sea, and he was not at all conversant with the civil affairs of the Navy; besides, he knew not, he said, who had recom- mended him to Lord Grey. However, I happened to ivnow ; for, on my usual Sunday afternoon visits to Lady Spencer, I met Captain Elliot coming out of Spencer-House ; and her Ladyship said, " I suppose you met your new Secretary." I saw Captain Elliot ; ;1 I.: •.■ t* '•>:•, . ^■ll •9 \ ■ 410 SIR JAMES GRAHAM [Skct. IX, but I knew not of his appointment, nor <at that tiiiu' even who was to be the First Lord. She then told nu' that Lord Spencer liad been consulted ; and that the Captain had always been so civil and accoiuniodatiiig when they were down at their place in the Isle of Wight, and when he was Hag-captain at Portsuiouth, that, entertaining a good opinion of him, his Lord- ship had recommended him for the situation. I was not sorry for it, as I knew him to be a very correct, excellent, and fine-tempered man ; and not myself being, or ever intending to be, in the House of Com- mons, it was of no consequence to me, as I had tinallv excluded myself from ever becoming the First Secre- tary of the Admiralty. Sir James Graham lost no time in nuistering the great business he was commissioned to perform, and which, from its nature, he was satisfied would hrin;: upon him much odium from those, who were to lose their situations, and from their friends ; but he was not a man to shrink from his purpose on account of these or any other considerations, lie was pledged to a spe- cific duty, and determined resolutely to perform it; and when his bill to be brought into Parliament was ready to be drawn (the first step to be taken), instead of havinj: the usual recourse to the Treasury Solicitor, I had spoken to him so highly of Mr. Jones, the Adniirahy Solicitor, a gentleman well versed in all legal points connected with the Admiralty departments, that he determined to employ none but him, under his own immediate inspection ; and to the credit of Jones it may be said that, in the two very intricate and im- portant bills drawn up by him, neither mistake nor alteration were then or have since been made ; aiul s Sfxt. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 411 1 mastering the well pleased was Sir James Graham, that he desired 1110 to purchase for liiin two pieces of plate of one luuKlred pounds value each, with suitahlo inscriptions, purporting th?.t they were presented by the Board of Admiralty, and for what service. When the dissolving Bill came into the Commons, it was opposed and severely canvassed by some of the Tory members, and by all those who had held j)laces under the former administration; but jNIr. Croker, who was best acquainted with the details of the subject, made a very long and able speech, dwelt nuich on his experi- ence of twenty-two years, and his constant attendance —rarely, if ever, being absent from his duty. This was strictly true. lie and I had perfectly agreed on that part of the subject, and had made an arrangement that both should never be absent at the same time : and a remarkable instance may be mentioned of our nuitual punctuality and nuitual reliance. I went to the Conti- nent for eight and twenty days : we agreed that on the morning of a certain fixed day I should be at the Admi- ralty to open the letters, which was my constant duty ; and that on the previous evening Croker would depart from town on his leave. I went, with my family, in the yacht to Antwerp, crossed the channels of tne Butch islands to Rotterdam, thence to Amsterdam, round by Utrecht to the llhine, to Frankfort, down the Khine to Coblentz, thence through Belgium to Paris ; and was at my post on the morning agreed upon, Mr. Croker having departed the previous evening. There were then no railroads. On another occasion, while enjoying my short sum- mer holiday at llamsgate, a dragoon brought me a telegraph-message from the Downs, ordering me to i ■ \ -> >. 412 SIR JAMES GRAHAM. I 1 m U' • ft" :'•'•■'. '.' - rm4' <i.,r , » , [Sect. IX. return forthwith to town, an accident having happened to Mr. Croker ; he had fallen oft* his horse, or the horse had fallen with him, in liichin( ■ Park. I mention these things only to show, how very punctually the working parties of the Admiralty attended to their duties ; which, of course, is not the less required by the new arrangement, now proposed and carried with no little opposition. Mr. Croker, as I have said, made a long and able speech, and one that was intended to he damnatory of the great change, about to be introduced, in transacting the aff*airs of the civil service of the navy; in the course of which, among every possible topic, he asked what is to become of the Secretary to the Admiralty? " The Right Hon. Gentleman," says Sir James Graham, " with great pathos had asked what was to become of the Secretary of the Admiralty ? lie begged to assure the Kight Hon. Gentleman, that he had submitted his plan to Mr. Barrow, one of the present secretaries, whose experience was at least as great as that of the Kight Hon. Gentleman, and from him he (Sir James Graham) had received every assistance, though he differed from him in politics, for the promotion of the welfare and interests of the service over which he had the honour to hold the guardianship ; that gentleman had, with perfect consistency, maintained his political sentiments, and had given him (Sir James Graham) that assistance which he felt proud to avow, and should ever remember with the most grateful feelings. Mr. Barrow not only thought this measure practical, but salutary ; and that it would have the effect of correct- ing many of those grievances which he well knew had existed. By the opinion of Mr. Barrow he felt fortified HOT. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 413 ill the strong sentiment he entertained in favour of this measure, and in that sentiment he was also supported by the present Board of Admiralty, which, he trusted he might say, contiiined as much naval knowledge as any ))rcvious Board." Sir James Graham did not bring forward his mea- sure without full and anxious inquiry and consideration. It embraced not only the civil departments, resident in town, under the immediate eye of the Admiralty, but also the more complicated machinery of the dockyards, lie had desired me to give him a detailed plan for the nianagementof these establishments, which accordingly I (lid, chiefly from memory, during the short holiday I had in the house of my friend Sir George Staunton at Leigh Park, and sent it over to him at Hyde, where he had gone in the vacation. It consisted of sixteen full sheets of foolscap paper — described the whole exist- ing system of management of the dockyards ; the luun- bcr, the rank, the description, and the duties of every officer, principal and subordinate, setting forth the use- It'ssness and the absurdity of many of them ; it detailed the dittercnt clashes of workmen, the mode of employ- ing them, the quantity of work done, and the ex- travagant cost of doing it; the capacity of keeping up the navy to its proper standard, &c. : in short, it was, vhat I intended it to be, a complete picture of a dock- yard, for the information and guidance of one who was about to make a visitation of a dockyard for the first time. The following is a copy of the covering letter which enclosed the detailed description above alluded to: — Hi : ' k • 414 8IU JAMES GRAHAM. [SKcr. IX. :^i.,: rl i 11 ^ ! rii; ;/; '' ,* '\ '• LfiLjli Turk, Aiijr. 27, 183'?. " Dear Sir, " The great measure of consolidating tlie civil (lepartineuts of the navy heing happily accom- plished under your auspices, and hy your Hrnnioss and perseverance, in spite of o])position and sinister auguries, there still remains, as you are fully aware, to be introduced into the doch/a/'ds a more rational and economical svstem of conducting those establishiiioiits. which absorb so considerable a ])ortion of the larjic sums of money ammally voted by Parliament for the support of that fleet, which is, and always nmst be, con- sidered the great bulwark of this nation. A ' as that object is now about to engage your attention ' while you are about to be occupied in })ersonal comnmnicatioii with jn'ofessional men, and in examining their reports and statements, perhaps a few observations, however hastily thrown together, and from an unprofessional man, wholly divested of all prejudice, may assist you at least to compare some portion of them with the more matured statements of others, and draw yom* notice to some points which may have been omitted by them. " In venturing upon this step, I disclaim any furthtr knowledge than what frequent visitations of the naval establishments, conversations with professional men, a habit of observation and inquiry, aided by a moderate share of common sense, may be supposed to confer. I have no object but the good of the service, and the credit of your naval administration, in thus pointing out wliat I conceive to be defects in the present system. and offering suggestions which may assist in thtir removal. " I am, dear Sir, &c., (Signed) " John Barrow. " lit. Hon. Sir James Graliaiu, Bart." >i;cT. IX,] Till': ADMIUALTY. 41.) The reply of Sir James was as follows : — " Rydf, Sept. 8, 1832. " My dear Sir, " I have received your excellent pajjcr coii- taiiiiiif? the outline of a plan for the introduction of a wise and well-regulated system of economy into the dockyards. I am well aware of the necessity of such a measure; and I thank you very sincerely lor the assist- ance which your able minute is so well calculated to give. No plan will be found safe or worthy of adoption which does not rest on fixed princij)les ; and the points which you have selected as preliminary, and reciuiriiig decision, appear to me to be wisely chosen i I am sure they are the points of primary im])ortance. But, when 1 retlect on the vital interest involved in this decision, the naval glory which may be tarnished, the naval safety which may be comj)ronii9cd, by an error of judg- ment, I shrink almost from the responsibility, and turn with sorrow to the contemplation of my own incapacity to tbrin a sound opinion — remembering always, that to destroy is the work of a day, to create is the highest effort of human ingeimity and power. " I can place, however, implicit reliance on the honesty of your advice, and on the integrity of your motives; and your long experience of naval affairs, your attachment to the service, your knowledge of its details, and your honourable connexion with the brightest period of its history, entitle your opinions to more than ordinary weight, and lead me to consider them with deference and respect. " The attention therefore which will be paid by me to your very important suggestions is anxious and in- cessant; but mature and incessant deliberation, and SIR JAMES GRAHAM. [Skct. IX. f. ■ f ■ . 'w>r; frequent discussion, will be necessary, to remove doubts and to perfect arrangements in their nature compli- cated ; and I hope, when we meet "n London after our vacation, that we shall be able so to deliberate and dis- cuss, as to arrive at a decision conducive to the public good, the object which unfeigncdiy is nearest to niv heart. " I go to Loudon on Tuo day, for a few days, but I shall leave town again on Saturday. " I am always yours very truly, " J. R. G. Graham." 6 •■ J i t t^' This plan, with the immense correspondence I was obliged to have with the heads of departments, both in town and the dockyards, in order to procure the neces- sary information and details, to make it correct and complete, had occupied my time fully for a considerable part of the previous year, 1832 — in which, I believe, volumes of my minutes will be found in the records of the Admiralty. This labour was the only cause and instance of my health being in any way affected ; but my old friends and colleagues rarely met me without the salutation, "Bless me! Barrow, how ill you look I — these Whigs will be the death of you ! " However, I got through it, and finished the plan of which Sir James Graham speaks. It was simple and obvious enough, and the mere outline made it at once to be understood: in fact, it pointed itself out, the materials being already provided, and required only to be newly arranged. The Civil Boards of the Navy at Somerset House con- sisted of several departments, all numerousl) stocked with comptrollers, deputy-comptrollers, and commissioners of the navy, of victualling, and of transports — all of whom i 1' Sect. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 417 were reduced, by a little thought and contrivance, to five separate and independent responsible superin- tendents, as under: — ]. Surveyor of the Navy, Sir ^^'^illiani Synionds ; 2. Accountaut-General, J. Thomas Briggs, Esq. ; .'}. Storekeeper-General, the lion. Robert Dundas ; 4. Comptroller of Victualling and Transports, James Meek, Esq. ; 5. Director-General of Medical Departments, Sir William Burnett. But it might be asked — I believe it was asked — what security have you that these five separate and individually responsible officers may not betray their trust? — what suj)erintendents arc they to have? — (lids aistodes cusfodiet / A very proper question, and the answer is at hand. Tlie Board of Admiralty consists of five Lords, in addition to the First Lord ; and this board collectively, and each of the five Lords indi- vidually, are constituted the Cusfodes. One objection was made on the supposition that the Lords of the Admiralty would not be over well pleased to attend at Somerset House. Yet once, per- haps, a week to take a walk aion;:; the Strand from Chariug-Cross could hardly be considered by an admi- ral or a captain — though a Lord of the Admiralty — as a toil, but rather a recreation ; or to be landed at Somerset House in a boat from Whitehall Stairs. Some were disposed to look upon such visits as an useless ceremony ; which is a great mistake. View them in no other light than as mere inspections of the different offices, they would have their advan- tage. " The eye of the master " was thought iu olden time to spur the attention of the servant. But the fiict 's, that these visits are more rarely made than they used to be or ought to be, for the merit of the plan 2 K fl^iLs ' ^ -■ '^'^*i!^!>'»ii^*^nga(B^akaaK T\^^^. ., ^M\\i :. ' !-! [.;• 418 SIR JAMES GRAHAM. [Sect. IX. dcpeiuls iniic'h on the superintendence of the Lords of the A(hniralty. The superintendent of each de- })artnient shouhl he ordered to Whitehall when wanted, as well ar. to make his reports in writing. Heretofore, Commissioners of the Navy had held their appointments to each of the dockyards hy patent, like the rest of the Commissioners. By the new plan their commissions were taken away, and they were selected from the most intelligent officers of the navy, had the title of Superintendent, and the tenure was considered as "during ])leasure." But recently there appears to have heen an understanding that these appointments are lor five years' duration, and may he renewed according to circumstances: which was no j)art of Sir James Gra- ham's ])lan. With the increase of individual respoiisihio officers must necessarily have arisen an increase of the whole correspondence which now passes through the Boaril of Admiralty, and which, hefore the change, Avas conducted thnmgh the Boards generally. This of course has multiplied to a great extent the number of letters and the quantity of writing within the Admiralty Office at Whitehall. At the end of six years an ac- count was taken of what the numher of letters received, and what the numher of pages of entry, consisted, at the two periods of 1827 and 1833: — III 1827. Letters received . . . 25,428 183:?. Ditto 31,330 Anmuvl increase , . 5,902 182" Dispatched 2o,402 1833. Ditto 47,866 Iiicrea.se .... 22,464 Si:cT. IX.] THE ADMIliALTY, 419 1827. Pages of entry . 1833. Ditto . . . Increase 20,783 39,162* 18,379 Yot, with all this addition to the corrchpoiidcMicc, the establishment of the office was only increased hy three or four junior clerks ; but during the two or three first years iiij/ labours were at least doubled. It was not toiiiul necessary to add to the members of the Board, and tliey remain at five, with the First Lord. The whole scheme has worked well, and without having required change or amendment, through five succeeding administrations, Whig and Tory, down to the present one of Lord Auckland, which commenced in the middle of the year \^A(\. Ill the summer of 183.S, when on my short holiday at the seat of my friend Sir George Staunton in ILimp- shire, Sir James Graham, naturally anxious to ascer- tain the practical operation of the new plan, adopted only the preceding year, resolved on a visit to the (kickyards; and on his way to Portsmouth wrote me a letter, of which the following is a copy : — «' Godaluiing, Augii.st 31, 1833. " My dear Sir, " The Board will assendde at Portsmouth on Wednesday morning at ten o'clock ; and if, without iiiooiivenience, you could meet us there, your presence Wul be of infinite service. I am unwilling to encroach on your holidays when I consider the intense labour of the last year, which you so cheerfully endured : but still it now remains to secure the fruit of that labour ; and I know you take so deep an interest in our recent * In 1^45 the entries bad increased to 54,570. 2 E 2 if i -■ ."> .' K ) • (•,;■'.■■ I I'! ; • .% 420 SIR JAMES GRAHAM. [Sect. IX. iiie.isures, that I should he unwilling to prove them by the test of experience, on a visit to the dockyards in your absence. " I go to Cowes to-day, and shall be happy to hoar from you there, especially if you can tell nie that you arc well and recruited by repose. " I am, with very sincere regard, " My dear Sir, &c., " J. II. G. Graii.\m." Accordingly, we wTiit carefully over rortsinoiitli Dockyard; and Sir James Graham had an 0})portunity of inspecting the practical effect of the new system, as compared with the old, and appeared to be quite satis- fied with the change ; and the system was established without iiirther opposition of the House of Commons. We, next year, visited the other great naval esta- blishment at Plymouth, and here we found a violent opposition, principally on the part of the shipwrights, to any reduction of their corps. The day being fixed for mustering them, we were told that they all meant to koq) away ; on which Sir James, by the adv'ce of Admiral the Hon. G. Dundas, one of the Lords, caused a placartl to be posted on the dock-gates, giving notice that the mustering of the yard would take place on the day subsequent to that intended, and that every one of tlif workmen, who did not then and there a})pear, and answer to his name, would forthwith be struck off tlio list, and never be allowed again to enter the gates, The result was that every man, even the lame and tlio impotent, answered to the call, and Devonport was as obedient to the orders as the other yards. We also went over the several departments in Somerset House, and Sir James was shown the mode dV^i..:-"'-.-'. Sect. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 421 ill which the documents are kept; and entered fully into the new plan after the reductions had actually been made. llie following list comprehends the whole of the re- ductions which were eftected under the administration of Sir James Graham: — • Admiralty, June 16, 1834. An Account of the Reductions that have been made in the several Naval Departments from November, 1830, to June, 1834, in- duding IVorkmen. ADMIKALTV AND DErAUTMEXTS. United Ainoiiiit of Salarios leiluct'd. Classes. First Lord , First Sc'cretiiry Treasurer of the Navy (al)i) 1 rayinasler of the Navy 1 riiyinaster of INIarines 1 Comptroller of tlie Navy 1 Deputy Comptroller . 1 Surveyor of tlie Navy . 5 Conunissiouers 2 Secretaries . . 1 Receiver of Fees . Surveyor of Buildintrs Draujj^htsmau to ditto 48 Clerks 1 Keeper of Allotnieuts . VAUDS 7 Commissioners . , 2 Secretaries to ditto 7 Masters Attendant 1 Assistant to ditto ') Master Shii)\vrights 1 Clerk of the Cheek 3 Store Receivers 4 Storekeepers 1 Eiiijineer and Mechanist (salary reduced) (ditto) isiied.) (salary r (ditto) educeil) | ETC 94 Carried forward i £oOO 1 ,000 1 , 2{)() 1,000 2,000 1,400 1,200 .5,000 2,200 400 250 22,635 140 7,825 800 2,950 220 2,400 450 850 2,400 (iOO £57,420 #!-: 422 SIR JAMES GRAHAM. M ^ *♦ [Sect. IX. .1. I •■ ■ ■ !■'! I-: "I United Amount of classes. Salar es reduced. 94 Broiiglit forward £57,420 1 Drauglitsman to Engineer and Mechanist 250 1 Clerk of the Works . • • • 700 2 Inspectors of Works . 280 1 Clerk of the Rope-yard 350 4 Agents Victualler . 1 ,400 2 Stewards of Hospitals . 700 2 Dispensers to ditto f 44 I 44 10 Mates to ditto . . 1,09, 7 Agents for Transports . 1,538 54 Clerks . 12,545 1 Clerk in Charge 96 21 Masters of Trades . 4,680 2 ForcKien of Millwrights and Metal-Mills 310 62 Measurers . 11,160 1 Foreman of Masons 150 1 Foreman of Stores 140 1 Foreman of Coopers 100 7 Superior Shipwrights . . 1 : L'OO 17 Cabinkeepers . 1,440 3 Surgeons . . 1,178 2 Assistant-Surgeons 400 1 Medical Agent . 407 2 Chaplains . 5j0 1 Lecturer . 4(N) 2 Boat.iwains 460 1 Warder 80 4 Porters and Store Porters 472 307 £99,588 1830 7,193 Vote of 1830.... £445,000 1,028J ■Workmen — Naval. 128,400 1834 0,16j Vote of 1834-5.. £316,600 Naval Yards abroad . ditto . . . . 19,648 Victualling- Yards at home and abroad — Workmen . ileduction . . £ 5,70li Total amount of 253,342 J. T. Bkiggs, Acct.-Geii. ri's ■ iV-'r ,■ •;» [Sect. IX. Sect. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 423 United Amount of Salaries reduced. £57,420 250 700 280 350 1 ,400 700 44 44 l,09t 1,538 , 12,545 96 . 4,680 310 . 11,160 150 140 100 . l;'2O0 . 1,440 . 1,1T8 400 4o; aJO 4(H) 460 80 472 . £253,342 jRiGGs, Acct.-Geii. The above may have been the amount of the per- sonal reductions, but the difference of the votes for 1830 and 1834 is not to be considered as so much saved, for the situations of many were continued, though by different people, and in a different shape. Sir James Graham, on presenting his last estimate in 1834, makes the whole reduction from 1831 amount to 1,200,000/. But, in point of fact, the merit of the new plan was never meant to be estimated by the amount of sav- ings it would occasion, so much as by striking at the root of abuses, which had long been suffiered to exist without detection ; and which, as I pointed out to Sir James Graham, had escaped the searching eye of himself and his Whig companions, and which, being thus brought to his knowledge, he took immediate and efficient steps to correct. The amount of extra- ordinaries in the navy estimate, in former IJoards, was made up by the First Lord of the Admiralty and the Comptroller of the Navy, who by the terms of the patent was to be consulted. The Board and the Parliamentary Secretary, who generally brought for- ward the estimates, knew nothing of the mode of ap- plication for such part of them ; and I have heard Mr. Croker more than once complain of being thus kept in the dark. The result was, as might be ex- pected, that sums of money were sometimes voted for one purpose and expended for another. Sir James had a case of this kind to settle on his first coming in, which gave him no little trouble. Many thousand pounds had been expended on the costly buildings of Weevil victualling-premises — all proper enough — but not a shilling of it appeared on the estimate. It was on this occasion I took the liberty of telling Sir James J . 424 SIR JAMES GRAHAM. [Skct. IX. ■Pi- •\ TV \ £5:'!lf- If- ■■ • ,1 Ti ' i !-M ; ?''',,!■.'' .«.». that it was chiefly his and his friends' fiault •, for that, while they scrutinized and opposed, and strove to diini- nish ahuost every vote proposed, there their economy ceased; for not one of them ever thought of asking, the following year, how the money voted the preceding year had been expended. lie admitted it ; and, like an honest and faithful public servant, instantly set about the remedy. An Act was now passed, authorising and directing the auditors of public accounts annually to audit the ^vhule expenditure of the navy, and to supply the Board of Admiralty with a correct balance-sheet, being an ac- count of every sum saved, and every sum expended; the balance to be handed over to the Chancellor of the Exchequer, and passed to the Consolidated Fund. And thus an end was put to the improper practice of applying such surplus, or sum not specifically voted on the estimate, to any purpose m hatsoever but the one for which it was intended. On the whole, I can venture to say with great confi- dence, and after the experience of fifteen years since the plan was put in operation, under half a dozen Boards of Admiralty, Whig and Tory, that it has been completely successful in all its parts ; and the proof of it is, that no fault has been found with it, nor has any alteration of the least importance been required. The M'hole plan hinged on the two Avoids individual responsil>illti/y and from them I sketched out the outline submitted to Lord Grey, and which Sir James Graham so ably and so unflinchingly carried into execution, in spite of an opposition of no ordinary kind ; and one which, I believe, he alone could have overcome. Fortunately, he had completed his labours Skct. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 425 before he took leave of the Admiralty. I drew up, for the benefit of his successor, a brief history of all the changes and improvements, both civil and military, that took place under his administration, 'vhich was entered on the records of the AdmiralL^, and, it is presumed, may there be found; and I hope most sin- cerely that no future change will be attempted on the plan, unless with the certainty of producing a better. It was my intention, however, if Sir James Graham had not taken so hasty a departure, to have called his attention to the very unsatisfactory state of the lists, and of the modes of promotion, of naval officers — the greatest grievance in the naval service, as they now stand, and one which none of the Boards of Admiralty have been willing to grap])le with. The occasional retirements of officers are of little, and but of temporary use. I should have begun by the uemolition of a mIioIc list, which was a clumsy invention of a former age, and, in my o])lnion, an useless incumbrance. I may be wrong: but I will brieflv state the historv of what is now the Commanders' List. In the early period of the Navy, fire-ships, brigs, and vcfjsels of the smallest class were commanded by Masters; and, probably, to prevent their being mis- taken for the ordinary class of Masters, they were distinguished as Masters-Commanding; but in a short time, these Masters thought that, perhaps by a little alteration in their title, they might advance a step in rank ; and accordingly, by minute of the 4th of Feb- ruary, 1G97, it was resolved that, for the future, all connnanders of fire-ships and sixth rates have their com- missions as " Masters and Commanders," and have no separate Masters ; and we find the title of Master and Coiiunandcr remaining to be thus entered on the lists • -raiO 1 • • K^ ■! ' '. • ,■!•( ;. ;»- ■■ U'- in rr".^ ■ «.• ■ * •vS .r •■•!,■ ■ ■ ' ■ ' '? SI'"-.' J ' .* •' 426 SIR JAMES GUAIIAM. fSECT. IX. of naval officers ; and not only that, but with 2^rccc(h'm;e over Lieutenants, thus robbing the latter of their k'«;i. timate step to the rank of Captain. The next process was to get rid of the name of Master altogethor, hut how this was done and by what authority I did not succeed in discovering: in running over the lists, I found that Masters and Commanders stood by that title on the list, down to the year l7U'i; and, in the list of the following year (1794), that class was siioply headed " Commanders," and so in future were tlkir commissions; the alteration, therefore, or the omission, must have taken place when Lord Chatham prLsidcd at the Admiralty. Taking that list as it now (184G) stands, we liiul:— On the Geiioral List On the two retired Lists 851 Conunaiulcrs 300 Ho I Total. Of these — Employed Afloat . . . . llo Ditto Coa.st-Guar(l, Hospitals, &c. 57 172 There remain on half-pay and pensioned 979 But the evil does not stop at the large unprofitalilc expenditure. Here we have 1151 officers reji,ulaily educated (at least so it must be presunu^d) in the iiavnl service, of whom we can find employment afloat fin' 115 only, and for shore appointments 57, in the wiiolc 172; and probably, if these were to be superseded, it would not be an easy matter to find others fit to suj)})ly their places from the list of Commanders; for, ex- cept on account of some brilliant service, few yoiiiii: men are promoted to be commanders — the legiti- mate step is from the list of old lieutenants of long ami Skct. IX.] THE ADMIUALTY. 42'i nds, we find :— good service; an old lieutenant thus becomes an old commander, lives and dies as such, his only reward being a trifling addition to his half-pay, instead of being made a captain at once — and no one will deny that an experienced first-lieutenant of a line- of-battle ship is as fit, or more fit, for the rank of captain, and to command as such, than another of equal merit and standing, who has sauntered away the best remaining part of his life as a half-pay commander ; for it is ten to one that he gets any- thing better, and six to one against his being employed afloat. In a time of profound peace, when few brilliant deeds can command promotion and a great proportion of all ranks must be deemed no longer fit for command, I am inclined to think that the reasonable and right- thinking part of the service would not object to the abolition of the rank of commander. Those already afloat, to have commissions as captains ; and captains, as in olden time, to be made from the list of lieu- tenants, and from such of the junior commanders as are fit for service afloat, the rest to retire ; and those who hold shore-appointments to continue them. In May, 1882, Sir James was pleased to order the following memorandum to be placed on the records of the Admiralty : — " 9t!» May, 1832. " Before retiring from the Board I am anxious to testify my respect to Mr. Barrow, and to mark my sense of his faithful services, and of the assistance which I have received from him in my public duty. " With the permission of His Majesty, I wish there- m\ I ■ I ' * ■ T 1 'I ! I i":]; ■ p.: ■.!;■• • 428 blU JAMKS GUAIIAM. [Sect. IX, fore to promote his son, Lieutenant William Barrow to the rank of Commander, as a speeial favour, inde- pendent of the routine of promotion in vacaneies. (Signed) " J. R. G. Guaiiam." This, my third son, passed through the two ])rf;vious stages greatly to my satisfaction ; and, what is more important, to the satisfaction of his c immanding ofticors. lie was, moreover, a kind-hearted and good young man. On the evening of the day that he received his coin- mission frcmi Sir James (iraham, two years atlerwards, to command the ' Hose,' he brought home mukr his arm a large (piarto Bible ; on being asked what use lie meant to make of it? — "To read it, to be sure, to the ship's company on Sundays, when at sea." His siii|) was sent to India, and approj)riate(l to the Strait of Malacca, to look alter Malay pirates, where, by his indefatigable pursuit among the creeks and jtuigle, lie caught a fever, which fell on his lungs, and on the pas- sage home he was obliged to invalid at the Cape of Good Hope. He there received the utmost attention from Sir Patrick and Lady Campbell, and also from Captain and Mrs. Wauchope — for whose almost parental kindness I cannot express myself sufficiently grateful. His illness terminated fatally at Simon's Bay ; where a stone, with a suitable inscription, marks the place of his burial. The following extract of a letter from Miss Elliot (now Countess of Northesk) to my daughter, displays so nuich good feeling, and marks so strongly the regard and recollection of this amiable lady for her abseut friends, that we all feel the best tribute of gra- titude we can bestow is to place her kindness on record : — '."•i 4\ Skpt. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 429 " After a loiipf delay," says Miss Elliot, " caused by tiie difficulty of ])rocurinf]f worknicu to complete the wall which surrounds the nionuinent, it is a real satis- I'ac'tion to me, before my departure from the colony, to he able to give you a ttivom'able report of the whole. The tablet is all that you and your family could desire; the enclosure solid, and the S])ace of ground inside the wall, which is larger than I expected, is now thickly studded with young acacias and geraniums in flower, and the wall will protect these until they are strong enough to stand against the winds of that quarter. " 1 send you a little ])lant, dried in haste, which I picked the other day inside the enclosure— a spot which, jntlsing by my feelings towards the grave of our lost Addif, 1 feel nuist be of deep interest to you; and even this trifling recollection may not be unworthy of your acceptance. 1 fervently wish I could have done more to prove to you that I still retain the kindest recollec- tion of you all. . . . (Signed) "Georgina Elliot." Tt is due to the memory of my son, and will be a ^n-atilieation to his family, to insert the following testi- monial of his conduct, and attention to his professional (hities, from his Commander-in-chief: — " Trincoinalee, 9th July, 1837. " Sir, " I feel sincerely concerned that the state of your health retpiires your immediate removal from this climate, and deprives me prematurely of your always cheerfid and willing assistance. I have frequently noticed with pleasure your laudable anxiety that His II SIU JAMES GKAIIAM. [Sect. IX. ■k' ; ■; I ^ I r I ( '• -*' Majesty's sloop 'Rose,' under your command, should be distinguished for her order and discipline, and alacrity on service ; and I trust that your speedy restoration to health will enable you to follow up the service, to which you are so nuich attached, with dis- tinction and honour to yourself, and benefit to vour country. " I am. Sir, " Your most obedient humble servant, " Bladen Capel, " Vice-Admiral and CommaiKler-iii-Cliief. '* Commander Burrow, H.M. sloop ' Rose: " On the same occasion of my son's promotion, Sir Herbert Taylor was directed by the King as follows:— " The King ordered me to assure you that he had been very nmch gratified by Sir James Graham's selec- tion of your son for promotion to the rank of Com- mander, not only because he knew it to be well bestowed, but as it afforded so satisfactory a proof of the just estimation in which your own valuable and exemplary services are held. His Majesty commanded me to add, that he shall not cease to take a sincere in- terest in your welfare, and in all that can contribute to your comfort. " I am, &c., very faithfully, (Signed) " H. Taylor." On the retirement of Sir James Graham from the Admiralty he left the following memorandum : — " Admiralty, 14th June, 1834. '■'' As my last act before leaving this Board, I con- sider it my duty, in the most earnest manner, to im- press upon my successor the paramount importance of Sr.cr. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 431 keeping at all times ready, to receive men, twelve sail of the line and six large frigates, in addition to the ships which may be in commission. When I say ready to receive men, I mean their standing rigging over the mast-head, their topmasts pointed, their lower masts iic"oss, all their internal fitting complete, and their ground-tier of tanks on board. On a sudden emer- gency, it is impossible to calculate the advantage which this state of preparation aifords ^ and I speak from ex- perience when I declare, that if reliance be placed on a state of ordinary to meet the exigencies of a sudden armament with efficient dispatch, disappointment will ensue, and national danger may be the consequence. France, Russia, all the naval powers, keep constantly a large portion of their fleet in this advanced state of pre- paration ; but when I compare the number of their ships, and the limited sphere within which they move, with our reduced peace establishment, and our ships of war in commission, scattered throughout the world for the protection of our commerce, I am convinced t' at prudence and policy dictate the necessity of having a force concentrated and ready in our harbours, at once to proceed to sea as soon as men can be obtained. This force should be equally divided between Portsmouth, Plymouth, and the Medway, to prevent confusion, and to ensure celerity, when an armament takes place ; and the admirals and captains-superintendent at those ports should be held strictly responsible for the constant state of perfect efficiency in which these ships should be kept, ^vltllout fail. Their rigging must be removed from time to time, and their masts and spars overhauled: hut the cost is insignificant, compared with the national advantage of having this force constantly available, without the risk of disappointment. To ensure these ,: r.ir. i'! ■ f J ;f* i , n * I, ' , . !..'M-M- » ii'!}-'' •■ w ■ ')• 432 SIR JAMES GIJAHAM. [Skct. IX. ships being constantly ready, I would recommend that, as ships of these classes are brought forward for com- mission, they should be taken from the number thus prepared. " J. Graham." Some time before Sir James Graham left the Ad- miralty (in the year 1830), Commander George Smith, who had submitted a plan for instruction in gunnery, and had been ajjpointed supernumerary of the St. Vincent, received an order to reside on board the ' Excellent,' to carry on the practice of sea-guiuierv, and for the instruclion of officers and seamen, jiiul others belonging to the sea service, who might hv (h- sirous of availing themselves of such an opportunity at the port of Portsmouth. To make the establishment perfect, the Board of Ordnance was requested to sup})ly a gun of each nature and descri])tion, with every variety of gun-carriage, apparatus, sights, ^'C. complete. Sir John Pccheli, who, as one of the Lords of Sir James (iraham's Board, had long before turned his par- ticular attention to naval gunnery, entered cordiallv into the ])lan of making it a branch of naval education; and, in the year ls.'V2, the ' Excellent' was put in com- mission, to be aj)propriated solely as a school for gun- nery practice, to have a regular establishment of able seamen to be instructed as seamen gunners for the fleet, and to receive on board a certain nund)er of officers to be instructed in that important branch of the naval ser- vice. In Aj)ril, 1832, Sir Thomas Hastings was ap- pointed to the command of the ' Excellent,' and con- tinued to carry on the gunnery instructions, conducting experiments, and making improvements, for fourteen years, when, in the year 1847, he was superseded hy Sect. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 433 Captain Chads, and "'as appointed principal Store- keeper of the Ordnance. Tlie practice of gunnery in ships of war has now be- come a system which every officer and man on board is expected fully to comprehend ; and every ship is sup- plied with copies of ' Instructions for the Exercise and Service of Great Guns.' They have regular words of command for every operation, and will go through the drill exercise as steadily as troops on shore. Ill the exercise of the great guns on board the 'Excellent,' it is pleasing to see the zeal and alacrity with w Inch the officers of all ranks go through the great gun exercise ; and, on the numerous occasions when I have been an inspector of this exercise, I have almost invariably observed, that the process of working the gun, till the concluding one of running it out, hasbeen accomplished sooner by the officers than by the men — such is the effect of aninud zeal and spirits over mere aiiima) strength. The ercw are also practised as to elevations, ranges, and charges of guns, in lever target practice, and in naval cutlass exercise. There is likewise a separate small treatise of " In- ?tmetions for the use of Shells," which are becoming of more general practice within a few years. Commander Smith, before mentioned, has also the merit of introducing, for the use of steam-vessels, an appendage which promises convenience, utility, and per- haps the preservation of human life. This is simj)ly converting the ship's boats into covers for the paddle- boxes by inverting them with their keels upwards : they are here well out of the way, are excellent roofs for the wheels, and are so fitted as to be ready at a moment to 2 K •'^'^■''''''''''^irimSISSIr rfl. 434 SIR JAMES GRAHAM. [Sect. IX. lower down in case of accident. I understand they are now generally thus applied. In the summer of 1834, Sir James Graham seceded from the Whig party, together with Lord Stanley and some others, on the Irish Church question, though he had gone the full length with them on all other questions, and was one of the most active Memhers, both in and out of the House, in passing the Reform Bill ; so that Mr. Joseph Ilume called him "The very pillar of Reform." He was succeeded in the Admiralty bv Lord Auckland, who remained hut a few nioiitlis, when his Majesty, on the 14th of November, 18;U, gave his new jNIinisters leave co retire. But I have not yet done with Sir James Graliani. He was a man of too nmch importance by his in- fluence, intelligence, and aptitude for business, to be overlooked by any party, whether in or out of the Government : and the high situation of Governor- General of India becoming vacant about this time, the Directoi-s of the East India Company fixed their at- tention on him, as a proper person to fill that important station. One of the most influential of this bodv called on me to know if, in the course of our intercourse, I had ever heard Sir James Graham throw out a hint on the subject, or if I thought he would accept of this hiirli appointment, provided it was properly offered to him, and that the present Ministry would approve of iiiiii. I told him I never had ; but said, if he wished it, I would write privately to let him know that the question had been put to me : which accordingly I did, ami received an immediate reply, of which the following is a copy : — • s Sect. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 435 " Netlierby, January lOtli, 1835. " My dear Sir, " Although my election takes place on Monday, and I am nuich occupied by the neccss*iry preparations, yet I cannot delay an answer to your letter, which is written in the kindest and most friendly spirit. It is impossible that I should not feel honoured and gratified by the high trust which the East India Directors are willing to confide to me. In any cir- cumstances my decision on the offer, if it were made directly and in due form, would involve the most serious and difficult considerations both of a public and private nature ; but at the present time, and in the present state of affairs, I am relieved from the necessity (if any such deliberation ; for having refused the acceptance of office at home, under Sir Kobert Peel, with all its attendant risks and heavy responsibility at tills critical juncture, I shouhl be exposed to the just suspicion of unworthy motives, li', under the same Government and with no change of circumstances, I consented to receive a most lucrative a])pointment which would remove me from the scenv'3 of the impend- ing struggle, and secure my own interests by the favour of a Government whose fortunes I was unwilling to share. Sense of honour admits of no doubt in this case; and in the most sincere sentiments of gratitude and respect towards the Directors I must, at the present moment, renounce the acce})tance of the aj)- poiiitment even if it were offered to me with the full concurrence both of the Ministers and the Court of Directors. " Yours, very sincerely, "J. 11. G. Graham." 2 i.'2 m I % SIR JAMES GRAHAM. [Sect. IX. In a subsequent note he says, " Let me thank you very sincerely for the friendly part which you have taken in this transaction ; it corresponds exactly with the uniform kindness which I have experienced at your hands." Sir Jam^s Graham became Secretary of State for the Home Department in 1841, when Sir Robert Poi] was First Lord of the Treasury ; but from the date of the above familiar letters the only comnuinicatioii I have ever had from Sir James was in consequence of some charge which, I understood privately, was in- tended to be preferred against him in the House of Commons, by his old friends the Whigs, for having loft the Dock- Yards unprovided with stores, and also for having reduced the fine corps of Marine Artillery to an inefficient state. I gave him notice of this ; and by permission of Lord Minto (for which I deemed it right to ask) I furnished him with copies of documents for his defence, if required. On this subject I make no further connnent ; I believe that we have not from that time exchanged a Mordwith one another on any subject. Yet we are both in the same way of thinking as to politics — both good Tories; and I am anxious to say one word at parting. Although during the four years of Sir James Gra- ham's administration of the affairs of the Navy my labours were increased two-fold to what they had been under any presiding power before or after him, yet, finding him earnestly bent on accomplishing those reforms which he had undertaken to make, and that lie spared no labour of his own in the execution of them, I can safely aver that I never felt myself more happy or more at ease than in the busy life I was dooinod to SliCT. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 437 spend during the period in question ; convinced us I then was — if I had ever doubted it before — that the more fully and actively employed, under vigorous health, are the mental and corporeal faculties, the more composed and tranquil will the possessor of them find himself to be. Indeed, I am fully persuaded, that the continual employment for forty years at the Admiralty, with the preceding activity of mind and body, were the great preservatives of my health ; and precluded the necessity of calling in the doctor, who, during all that time, never showed his face in my house — at least for myself^ and rarely for any one else. There might be another cause for contentment. I felt that I had the full confidence of Sir James Graham, as he had promised at our first meeting that I should have ; and that I was held under a higher degree of consideration than otherwise my position in the dcpart- lueut would have procured for me. Sir James always treated me with the greatest kindness and attention, and I can only regret that for some years now all intercourse should have ceased. I thought it right, however, two years after it had ceased, personally or by writing, to send him a copy of my ' Life of Lord Ilowe,' the acknowledgment of which produced a most gratifying letter, of which the following is a copy : — "Netherby, December 20th, 1837. "My dear Sir, " I have received and read with great pleasure your ' Life of Lord Howe ;' and so far from exclaiming 'How can my friend the Secretary of the Admiralty find time to write a book ? ' I can speak, from the experience of some years, that he ^J ^^'""5^!^ (il l-t' it; i; . 'I I ii-i'; I ,. . llt'M:lU ■ ' I- I,' t ^ ' r 1 [■■''!: 1 ; * " • i.f ! • •• "J ■. Mi; .; .1,, '.• 438 SIR JAMES GRAHAM. [Sr.cT. IX. never neglected a. public duty, that he never was want- ing in a kind office to a friend, and yet, from a wise economy of leisure, he always had a spare moment for some useful research or some literary occupation. I think your last effort will be instructive ; I am sure it is pregnant with wisdom and reproof; and it will be ;i happy event if the officers of the present day will stick to the beaten track, and be content with the road to fame which the great men — now no more — so nobly trod before them, when deeds and respect for aitlioritv were everything, and when words and love of change stood for nothing. All the groat principles of our naval glory are clearly and fully developed in the ' Life of Lord Howe ;' and when these principles are violated, when the established usage is destroyed, when the right of Impressment shall be frittered away, and the use of corporal punishment given up, thtMi this glory will depart from us and our sun will set to rife no more. You, in your })lace and generation, have done your best to avert that evil day ; and your honest services at the Board of Admiralty will, I trust, be long remembered. (Signed) "I am, always, &c., " J. R. G. Graham. ! -It ;'■•'■,.■• ..• K*J;^ .■:■•■,■■■. I also presented a copy of the book to the Queen, who directed the following reply : — " St. Leonard's, December 20tli, 1837, « Sir, " I am honoured by Queen Adelaide's commands to convey to you her JNTnjesty's thanks for the ' Life of Admiral Earl Howe,' which you have had the goodness to present to her. ■*.s Sect. IX.] THE ADMIRALTY. 4.39 "Iler Majesty further charges iiic to express her great satisfaction that this work is written by yon, as iier Majesty clearly recollects the anxious w ish of the late King that it should be undertaken by yourself, as a person whose abilities, services, and character his Majesty always heh' in the highest estimation. " I have the honour to be, &c. (Signed) " Edward CuiizoN. " To Sir J. Barrow, IJart , &c., &c., &c" That which I ought, perhaps, to value the highest, consists of three lines from the late Mr. Southey to Mr. Murray : — " I have read through half the ' Life of Lord Howe,' and never read any book of the kind that seemed to me, ir all respects, so ably and so judiciously com- posed." k to the Queen, ember 20tli, 1837. ' I 440 THE KAKL OF AUCKLAND. [Sect. X. Skction X. The Earl of Auckland. .Time 11, 1834— December 22, 1834. I ■• ' 1^' Nf:.'!- .. «'> Sir William Parker First Naval Lord Tiie Hon. (Jko. Klliot First Socretary. The retirement of Sir James Gnaham was speedily fol- lowed by that of Lord Stanley, the Duke of l^ichniond, and the Earl of liipon : and, ere lon^, by the resignation of Lord Althorpe, Chancellor of the Exchequer, who, at the same time, made an excuse for Lord Grey also to retire from office. Yet with all these deser- tions, the Whigs were not disposed to quit the lioliii. Viscount Melbourne succeeded Earl Grey as First Lord of the Treasury, and Lord Auckland took the situation of First Lord of the Admiralty in the place of Sir James Graham. Lord Auckland had, for some years, been Auditor of Greenwich lIos])ital, and had occasion at certain periods to show himself at the Admiralty; but lie never held any other situation, by which he could become conversant with public business, or any that had to do with more than a small portion of Admiralty concerns. The limited degree of patronage that during the short period of his service fell to his share, con- sisting of a promotion or two, and a few naval appoint- •.% SUT. X.] THE ADMIRALTY. 441 inents, he distributed, I believe, without favour or affection, to the best of his judgment and according to his conscience. lie was, moreover, a nobleman of good sound sense and solid understanding, of an amiable disposition, mild in his manner, and good-tempered. He showed a willingness to make himself acquainted with the details of business, relating to the concerns of the Naval doj)artment, which were now placed on a more firm and settled fcmndation than heretofore. His tenure of office, however, did not exceed six months, during which the crippled Melbourne Administration, con- sisting now of little more than mend)ers of the original Kcform Ministry, shorn of its beams, being deprived of its ablest and best statesmen, was tottering to its tall. The King, having for some time observed this, became more and more dissatisfied, and determined at Kiigtli to dismiss his Ministers, and to send for the Duke of Wellington, whom he charg(;d to submit to him a new Government. The Duke could not well refuse, and proposed at once Sir Robert Peel — though then absent with his lady in Italy — as the only and the most proper person to be appointed First Minister of the crown ; and in the mean time he advised the King to place him (the Duke) provisionalli/ at the head of afi'airs, as First Lord of the Treasury and Secretary of State for the Home Department ; receiving, in fact, the seals of the three departments of Home, Foreign, and Colonial Secretaries of State, as he might have occasion to act in each of them until Sir Robert Peel's return ; and so serujjulous was the Duke, that not a single office was disposed of, or exercise of patronage made use of, -Mh 442 THE EAUL OF AUCKLAND. i LSixr. X. 1 I * f .•1 I . • 11' ' Ml. • 1 1 f m (luring the interregnum ; and no inconvenience resulted f'roiu what was jocuhirly called the Duke's Cabinet, consisting of one; single ineniber, in his own individual person — a coniidence reposed, in this singular instance, without creating envy, jealousy, or suspicion, either in the mind of the King or of the jmblic. On the arrival of Sir llobert Teel in England, lu; was forthwith aj)pointed First Lord of the Treasurv, aud ihe Earl de Grey First Lord of the Admiralty, which might be said to have been in abeyance for sonio little time; but as every thing had remained peace- able and undisturbed, the v»heels of Government went on smoothly — though, on a few occasions, perhaps, a little more slowly than usual. Sir llobert Feel very ])ro- pcrly named Sir George Cockburn as First Naval Tionl of the Board, who was at this time Commander-in-chief on the North American station. Conceiving it would be an act of great injustice to rccal this excellent ollicer from so important and lucrative a command, I waited on Sir Robert Peel, to take his opinion whether he con- sidered it absolutely necessary that he should at once be recalled to assume his seat at the Board, or would suffer hiui to remain a little longer. " By all means," he said, " write to him to say, in my name, that there is no occasion for his turning over the command, and that I will let him know when he is wanted here." It Mas fortunate that I stopped him : for, had he come home on seeing his appointment, he would have found his seat occupied by some of the Whig party. Sir liobert Peel's Government having ceased in April, 1835, Lord Melbourne became a second time the Premier; and Lord Auckland a second time First Lord of the Ad- miralty for another four or five months, when he rc- *.% Skct. X.J THE ADMIRALTY. 448 iiviiip; it would signed in September, 1835, and Lord Minto took his place, which he held for six years — not, however, iniine- (liately, asubont this time the Whip; Government found itself so un])opular, with the Radicals as well as with the Conservatives, that Lord Melbourne and Lord John Russell deemed it expedient to resign ; and the former recommended C^ueon Victoria to send for the Duke of Wellington, who advised her Majesty again to appoint Sir Robert Reel as First Lord of the Treasury, and authorize him to form his Government. It need not here be stated that Sir Robert, not thinking it proper or constitutional that the wives, daughters, and sisters of the late Cabinet Ministers should continue as Ladies of the Court, all of whom the Queen had been advised to insist on retaining. Sir Robert and the Duke of Wellington declined accepting office ; and Lord Mel- bourne, with the whole ])arty, immediately resumed tlioir former situations: and it was on Lord Melbourne's remaining in office that Lord Minto iinally succeeded as First Lord of the Admiralty. ir it. t ■ 444 THE EARL DE GREY. [Sect. XI. m---i ■ iili Ml ■; 1 ■ ■■.!•■.•(■ 1. ■. . •^' Section XI. The Earl de Grey. December 23, 1834— April 25, 1835. Sir Charles Rowley First Naval Lord. Right lion. George R. Dawson. .First Secretary. During the interregnum, as it may almost be called, between Lord Auckland leaving the Admiralty the first time, the 22nd of December, 1834, and returning to i^ the 24th of April, 1835, the office of First Lord was held by the Earl de Grey ; but in the fluctuating state of the Government two years before, and about the com- mencement of the reign of a young and a female sove- reign, and moreover in the struggle for powr between the Whigs and the Conservatives, the wheels of Govern- ment were considerably clogged ; and the world l)cinjr apparently disposed to cultivate the arts and pursuits of peace, the Navy In particular may be said to have been resting on its oars, during the two short administrations of Lord Auckland and the intermediate still shorter one of the Earl de Grey. In fact, little beyond the com.mon routine of business engaged the attention of the First or of the other Lords of the Admiralty The subject that, from its importance, required the notice of the Board, was the enormous expense incurred, *.\ <i:i ' ■ ' » • » . ^ \ Sect. XL] THE ADMIRALTY. 445 and the inconvenience occasioned, by the frequent re- pairs required for the steam-vessels, the number and size of which had at this time increased to a large fleet. A circular notice was therefore sent forth to every officer in command of a steam-vessel, to use his en- deavour to make himself thoroughly acquainted with all the parts of the machinery ; to examine their condition, and, with the assistance of the chief engineer, to repair defects whenever they occurred ; and to transmit, on the first day of every month, a distinct and detailed account of each preceding month of what is therein required, under the following heads : — 1. State of the engines, boilers, and paddle-wheels on the last day of that month. 2. Any injury or defect, and nature of repair re- ceived. .3. Quantity of coals, or number of days' consumption, the ship can ?tow. 4. Number of hours the steam has been up in the month. 5. Average consumption of coals per hour. G. Greatest number of knots the vessel has gone. 7. Number of days in the month she has been under sail only. 8. The maximum speed when under sail only. 9. Cc'iduct of the engineers during the month. 10. Any suggestions that may occur to you respecting the machinery, and such other remarks and observa- tions as you may deem it expedient their Lordships should be made acquainted with. This circular order was productive of the best effects. As steam-navigation was rapidly increasing not only 446 THE EAKL DE GREY. [Sect. XI. ■f^. .1 i ^1 ! ' ;ii.: in the number, but alsc in the capacity and force of the men-of-Avar steamers, candidates for conunands increased in proportion; and as it was of the utmost im- portance that appointments should be conferred on those alone who had acquired a knowledge of the construc- tion and management of the steam-engine, enconrago- ment was given by the steam-engine manufacturers to such naval officers as might be desirous of acquiring information, for admission to their workshops; and tlie knowledge thus obtained was the best reeonuuendatioii to the comnuuid of a steam-vessel. In the Karl de Grey's short administration, kSir George Cockburn was still commander-in-chief on tlii- American station, and I had written to him not to he in haste to leave his command, 'i'he following is his reply to that connnunication, addressed private to myself^ to which he has been kind enough to tack a very flattering testimony, and congratulation on the recent distinction conferred on me : — I • - * (Private.) ''Admiral's House, Berinuda, lilst May, IH;!!. "My dear Sir John, "This being the first time I have so addressed you, 1 nmst begin my letter by ottering you my very sincere congratulations on your having received this so well-merited mark of distinction, and requesting you to believe how cordially I hope that you may long, very long, enjoy tliis honour, which has seldom or never been more fully earned by so long-continued and valuable ser\ ices to the state, and whicii conse(juently nmst have given universal satisfaction not only to your friends, but to the public at large. Lady Cockburn Skct. XI.] THE ADMIRALTY. 447 also begs to join me in offering onr congratulations to Lady Barrow on the occasion. " I have now to thank you for your notes of the 2nd and .'3rd of A])ril, and a sad account they give (»f the state in which matters were in London 'it that date, leaving no doubt of the soundness of your advice to me 'to wait ' further communications previous to coming to any decision relative to my return to England, and most truly do I feel obliged to Lord de Grey and the rose of you for the kind and Hattering consideration towards me so fully manifested by everything you have (k'oided and done respecting me ; and if Sir llobert IVel's Government shall have survived the storm wliich so overbearingly pressed uj)()n it when you wrote, I shall have much pleasure in joining you at the old (itHce whenever you have sent to me an officer to M'hom 1 can with propriety deliver the charge of this extensive ;)iid (under existing circumstances) important command ; Imt from the tenor of your letter and of others 1 re- ceived at the same time, I hardly venture to indulge a hope that iiii/ frit'nds can liave managed to stand their uTound against the united Whig and Kadical swarm opposed to them, and therefore I consider that long- CIV this reaches you all (piestion regarding my return will have been set at rest. " How any other Govermncnt will be able to get on rciiiains to be proved, but it appears none will be likely to stand with the present House of Commons except a thoroughly destructive one, and with such a Govern- ment I own r do not think Croker's flntici])ations which you mention likely to prove very far wrong. Wo nuist, however, do our best to the last, and stand the hazard of the die. "«■«! 448 TIIK EAKI DE GIIKY. [HJXT. XI. " With every kind wish to you and yours, helievc nie always, " My dear Sir John, " Faitlil'ully and truly yours, " G. CoCKBUUN. " Sir Tohii Rarnnv, Bart., Jnst at the same time I received the Ibllowinji; kind letter from one of my earliest i'riends in the naval srr- viee, and t)ne who has distinguished himself in the])roiH()- tion of nautical seienee and of ^ood eonduet, mor.ilitv, and discipline in the junior otKeer, heyond any otliir that I could mention. In society he was ])leasant and lively, and fond ol' literary pursuits, of which lie has given ])roof to the world hy several small volumes on various subjects, chiefly naval ; but such is the uncer- tainty of luunan life and the instability of the nicntMl constitution, that in the midst of apparent luvdtli and vigour, the faculties of his uiind suddenly gave way, forsook him altogether, and after a short time of almost unconscious existence, he was fortunately released irom a state of misery distressing to himself and to all his friends : — "Paris, 13tli NovcMuber, IKVl " My dear Sir, "I am glad of an o})pt)rtunity of congratulatin;; YOU upon your recent honours — so well earned and bestowed with so nuich popularity ; for I never renioni- ber auy pnmiotion, so to speak, which gave more uni- ve»*sal satisfaction. But to uo one of all your friends could it have afforded more gcnuin'^ pleasure than it did to uie, for I have very long looked up to you as Skct. XI.] THE ADMIRALTY. 449 one of my truest, and certainly iny most ' iseful, pro- tector — most useful because you gave nie help and encouragement when I was unknown, even to myself, and when every word of such practical encouragement, as you afforded me, was a step not merely in the ladder of professional advancement, but gave me a rise in the \vorl(l of letters, of science, and, last though not least, of good company. I must, therefore, ever feel grateful to you ; and uow that I want nothing, professional or otherwise, I am pi'oud to acknowledge my deep obli;.a- tions, and right happy to see the object of my hunJde esteem duly honoured by the highest authorities, by and with the cordial sympathy of the country at large. "Pray offer uiy best remembrance and that of Mrs. Ilall to Lady Barrow, and believe me, " Ever truly yours, " Basil Hail. '' Sir John Ecirrow, Bart." Novombt'!, IHo'). 2 Q !J.. 1 4 ! -I- 450 THE EAUL OF MINTO. Section XII. T/ie Earl of Minto. Sept. 19, 1835— May 22, 1841. [Sect. XII. I h ill' If ■J . :■ ; ■ . ,)• Admiral Sir Charlks Adam First Naval Lord. CiiAS. Wood (now Kt. Hon. Sir C. Wood) .First Secretary. In the same year (1835) in which Lord Auekliind's second adniinistratioii of the affairs of the Admiralty commenced, and terminated, the Earl of Minto be- came First Lord of the Admiralty, Sir P. Malcolm and Sir AYilliam Parker being a})pointed the two chief Naval Lords ; but Sir P. Malcolm never took his seat, and the other eventually was rej)laced by Sir Charles Adam, and Mr. Charles AVood was Secretary — an able and active man, and no mean debater in the House of Commons. Notwithstanding the frequent changes and the short reigns of the last three or tour First Lords of the Admiralty, the aifairs of the Navy, mider the new arrangement made and completed by Sir James Graham, went on so smoothly and with such regularity that tlie short-lived Boards liad no oe sion to trouble themselves with studying the detail- the civil departments, or of making any new ones. Ni alteration whatever had been made or j)roposcd ; but, before Lord Minto had been long in office, a Committee of the House of Commons was appointed to inquire into e;i- s (if Skct. Xll.] THE ADMllJALTY. 4.11 tlicAvorkiiig of the consolidation of the civil departments of tlie Navy, according- to the new plan, with the view, jis 1 nnderstood, of seeing liov/ far such a plan could he applied to the consolidation of the civil affairs of the Army. The Committee consisted of Lord Ilowick, Sir Henry Ilardinge, Lord Palmerston, and three or four others. I believe that 1 was the only person examined, and the examination was rather long and particular. Xot a point in the ])lan of arrangement was omitted to be called in(piestion; hut, having drawn it up myself and witnessed its execution, and two years oidy having expired, I was pre})ared to give full information on every point, and I believe they Mere perfectly satisfied. As Lord Grey had suggested the measure, and during its progress a considerable opposition in the House of Connnons was exhibited by certain Conservative mem- hers; and, moreover, as Lord Ilowick took an active share in the examination, it struck me, at the time, that Lord CJrey was desirous the success of the measure should be made more ])ul)lic than it had hitherto been ; it was, in fact, his Lordship's own measure— at least, it originated M'ith him. Another Committee, about the same time, was appointed to examine into the several sinecure places, with the view of abolishing them ; and I Mas also (xaniined on this subject, as tar as the naval service was concerned. I told them I Mas not aMare of the existence (if any sinecures in the Navy, except they might be dis- posed to consider the two appointments, of ancient date, tiie Vice-Admiral and the llear-Admiral of England, ti) come under that denomination ; strictly speaking, lliey might, })erhai)s, fall M'ithin that description ; but 2 (; 2 iM » . i- ■ J. 452 THE EARL OF MINTO. [Sect. XII. lis ,: h m 1 1 . I! .'■I I •" I would beg leave to observe, that they had efficient duties to perform, when first created, and might be again called upon to carry them into execution. Even in our time, it might have happened that their services were required. These two officers were originally intended to be the Lieutenants of the Lord High Admiral ; and if anything had happened to deprive the nation of the late Lord High Admiral, while holding that office, or that had disqualified him from per- forming certain duties of it, one or both of these officers would immediately have been summoned to perform such duties, to prevent the office of Admiralty from becoming useless; for the Council would then have been reduced to such an emergency, that they could neither order a ship to be built, to be commissioned, or to proceed to sea ; they could not attach their names to any public document. It may also be looked on as a circumstance in favour of their continuance, that these appointments are con- sidered as honorary distinctions, that have always been given to Admirals of high rank and good service ; and the saving to be effected, by depriving them of the pittance of day-pay they receive is too paltry to be re- garded. The Committee would appear to have been satisfied with this statement, as the Vice and Roar- Admirals of England still remain to be voted on the Estimate of the Navy. During Lord Minto's administration a great clamour was raised, mostly by naval partisans, about the inefficient state of the Navy, particularly on the want of naval stores in the Dock-Yards: and, as usual, the flourishing state of the continental navies was con- trasted with the declining condition of ours ; and, Sect. XII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 453 among other matters, the mode of manning the Navy was, perhaps not undeservedly, reproved ; and it was stated also that the men were dissatisfied by being put to unnecessary and degrading work. An instance was related, that the Duke of Wellington, "on his being shown over a man-of-war, in which the jJoUshinu system was established in full force, his Grace obfjrved, that it was pretty to look at, but that it was probably the cause of discontent, as he had not seen a smile on the countenance of any one man in the ship." Satisfied of the falsehood of the story, but being stated in a publication generally read, I took the liberty of asking the question of his Grace, who immediately returned the following reply: — . " Wahner Castle, September 29th. " My dear Sir, "I have received your letter of the 2/th. I have no recollection of having used the expression to which you refer. I have sailed in many ships of war, of all sizes and descriptions — probably more than some otficcrs of the Navy of my time of life, certainly more than any officer of the Army. The Captains of all these ships were the most distinguished men of their rank at the time. I do not recollect to have had occasion to make such a remark upon any of them, or on the discipline maintained by any of them. "That which I always felt was, admiration for the professional science and seamanship displayed by all the officers, without exception, in every ship in which I ever sailed. I firmly believe, and I have frequently stated my conviction, that I had not seen one who could not, at any time, lay his ship in any situa- tion which he might be ordered to take, in relation Wtm K tmmtm 4o4 THE EAllL OF MINTO. [Skct. XII. y^r=. :if\'" 1 , ij' I 'I i ■-', ; I "I ., 'i ^ 'n to any other ships, be the strength of the wind or tiic violence of the sea what it might ; and I havo founded upon tliis superior knowledge and seaniansliji) of our officers, the confidence that the naval superiority of this country would be permanent. " Entertaining this opinion, I might have made iv- marks upon other matters ; but I certainly do not recollect that I ever had occasion to make sucii ii remark on the discipline of any ship in which I liavf sailed. " Believe me, Src, &c., (Signed) " Wellinotox." This high compliment, from such authority, settles that part which relates to the science and seaniiiiisliip of the officers, and negatives the other charge; and Lord IMinto in the Lords, and ]Mr. Wood in the Commons, pro^■e(l the charge of a scarcity of stores to be utterly unfounded. The charge originated, as regarded thr want of timber, on a most ridiculous basis ; a certain gentleman-yachtsman could not procure, in oiu' tirst doci<-yard, a spar of Riga timber for a mast to his yaiht I Lord Minto was a nobleman of first-rate abilities; and, among other qualifications, he had a competent knowledge of the mechanical })owers and of the various modes of their application, which, in these days of in- ventions, is no mean accpiirement in a First Lord of the Admiralty, beset, as he is sure to be, by a host of speculative inventors, whom it is not easy to satisfy or to get rid of, especially when they happen to bo naval officers of high rank, who may fancy theniselvts capable of making improvements in naval constructions, principally in steamers, of which they can have but a very imperfect knowledge. Two or three of this kind Skct. XII.] THE ADJIIllALTY, 455 ^^ELLI\(JTOX.' of crafl luavc just now been placed under trial, but, as I understand, with small chance of success. The only successful amateur builder appears to be Ca})tain, now Admiral, George Elliot, who planned the 'Eurydicc,' avowedly one of the best — if not the very best — ship of her class in our tleet ; he having previously built the ' Modeste,' of a smaller class, which is also much praised for her good qualities. A dangerous set of projectors appear to have re- cently found their way into the good graces of the Admiralty, and supplied their Lordships with a whole fleet of iron steam-vessels, altogether useless, it would seem, as ships of war. I very much doubt whether, had the proposal of building such vessels been submitted to Lord JVIinto, while he presided at the Board, the serious objection would not have occurred to him, that a siiot, passing through a plate of iron, nuist leave on the opposite or inner side of the plate such a jagged margin round the hole, as would have suggested at once the difficulty, if not the impossibility, of plugging it up in sufficient time to prevent a rush of water pouring in. lie would, at least, have satisfied himself, by direct experiment, whether the objection was re- movable and without inconvenience. As far as I have seen in the public papers, the inventions hitherto tried to obviate the evil have been unsatisftictory ; but the vessels have been built and the expense has been in- curred. I do not recollect that anything material took place during the remaining period of Lord Minto's administra- tion, beyond the general and usual occurrences that daily occupy the attention of the Board of Admiralty. The Navy is indebted to him for the extension and improvement of the seamen's libraries : and I may add, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 1- IIIM 14 ^ 112.5 1.8 L25 llllli.4 IIIIIL6 ^^ 'W A C^. ' o'S -"'^ o;- /A w^w Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 frb) 873-4503 4tf ^<?- f-w ■. .I,.-, •. > , -i . • . A ■ri.'f. •J f. :i. ■i ■ r ' t.- •' • -.i; 45(5 THE EARL OF JillWTO. [Skct. XII. also, to that excellent and charitable lady, the late Kli/.abeth Fry, of whose unceasing solicitude for an inij)r()venient in the morals and comforts of all in the naval service, I had frecjuent and abundant proofs. We are indebted to her admirably well-chosen selection of books, for the completion of the seamen's libraries. She told me, one day, she had just couipleted a tour round the sea-coast of Great Britain, to visit all the coast- guard stations, with a view to succeed, if practicable, in obtaining books for the perusal of the poor fellows that had attracted her notice and commiseration, as slie regarded their solitary walks along the sea-shore, look- ing out for snmgglers. I could only refer her to the Conuuissioners of Customs, under whom the coast-guard is placed. I was much gratified by the frequent visits of the good Mrs. Fry, and with her correspondence, which always had relation to some humane and charitahle pur})ose ; as a specimen I annex the copy of a letter I find at hand : — « Upton Lane, Ist month 12tli, 1836. " Esteemed Friend, "According to thy request I ordered a list to be sent to thee of our libraries ; first, the one that is gone to 498 stations : and secondly, one of our large District libraries ; there will be 74 of these, and all the larger ones will have considerable variety in them. My daughter and myself also hope soon to send thee our list of books, that we have sent for the use of the Government packets, but we have it not ly us just now. " I long to have the great hospital libraries increased and renewed. I believe it would do much good and prevent much harm; for the human mind, if not Sw-r. XI 1. J TIIK ADMIRALTY. 457 iionth 12th, 1836. jjioperly occuj)it'(l, is sure to suffer; atul there are iiiaiiy hours, ])Hrticuhirly in recovery from illness, tiiat may he spent pleasantly and profitahly in reading. " T\ni officers at riyiuouth coni|)lained of the sniall- ncss of their lihrary there ; and, as a very few pounds would greatly increase it, 1 should he very much f,ratified in hearing thnt this request was granted. I ]ccl more free in pressing this suhject because I know that Sir William Burnett approves the officers and sailors having the books. I have had much experi- ence in visiting the sick, and I am sure that persons a^e iiiiich mistaken who are disposed to preclude religioii? books from them ; because I am sure, if able to rct'd the Bible and works of simple Christian truth, they tend to calm, suj)port, and comfort them in their affliction, and con:ioquently frequently promote recovery. I isliould be careful, certainly, what books I introduced. " 1 thought it better, as it respects the articles in the Irish ships, to write to thee, and, if thou think proper, pray represent it to the Board. I fear thou wilt think nic rather a troublesome correspondent, but my motive for writing must plead my excuse. I hope that thou wast so kind as to present my respects to Lord Minto, and to inform him, how very much obliged I feel for his great kindness in nominating Captain Prynn's son to the upper school at Greenwich. " My hands are so very cold that I fear part of my letter is hardly legible^ " I remain, with esteem and regard, "Thy obliged friend, "EuzABETH Fry. "To Sir John Barrow, Bart., &c. &c. Ac." I - ',■ *■ *. "•* •. > ■ '••■•*'. -:^^ It.t ; . ., 458 THE EAllL OF MINTO. [Sect. XII. Mr. Secretary Wood left the Admiralty on the 4th October, 1839, greatly respected by his colleagues, aiul by all who had served under him, for his uniform kind- ness and good feeling towards them, having accepted the Secretaryship of the Treasury *, and Mr. M. O'Ferrall succeeded to his place in the Admiralty, which he re- tained till the 9th June, 1841 : when he removed to the Treasury, and was replaced by Mr. John Parker, in the Admiralty, on the 9th June; and went out on the 10th September following, with the Earl of Minto, after a short service of three months. The Whig administra- tion was in fact dissolved, in consequence of the dis- solution of Parliament, and the result of the new one being decidedly against that party ; Sir Robert Peel was appointed First Lord of the Treasury, and the Earl of Haddington First Lord of the Admiralty. m ( n.-.. 'it >r . .• ■•'!♦ . : ■■ *4,' Sect. XIII.] THE ADMIKALTY. 459 Skction XIII. The Earl of HAoniNGTON. May 22, 1841— January, 184(}. lit. Hon. Sir George Cockbuun First Naval Lord. Hon. Sidney IIerbeht First Secretary. When the Duke of Wellington and Sir Robert Peel had declined, on a former occasion, to accept office on the terms proposed, Lord Melbourne consented to re- main at the head of the Treasury, and Lord Minto accepted the Admiralty, and conducted it with great credit till the commencement of the year 1841, under that tottering administration. Parliament was dissolved, and the returns went so much against the Whigs, as already stated, that Sir Robert Peel was sent for, who accepted the seals, and his early friend the Earl of Had- dington was appointed First Lord of the Admiralty. A letter from Sir Robert introduced me to his Lord- ship, to whom I had the honour of being well known in his early life. This change, and the return of Sir George Cockburn to the Admiralty, together with the appointment of Mr. Sidney Herbert as Secretary, whom I also had known as a boy, when I was not unknown to Lord and Lady Pembroke, induced me to give up all thought for the present of resigning my situation, !M' ■' 'ifft i'v-, » ' Wf. a ii »i:-.:v."'; ,. i' ■ % it:: !^ - • • Ui ' ;•••-■ ■ 'if • 1^; ,,-. •. . \' 460 THE EARL OF HADDINGTON. [Sect. XHI. which I had been revolving in mj mind to do on the breaking up of the last Board. Lord Haddington came into the Admiralty at a time of profound peace, and when the new system of management in the Admiralty departments had under- gone a full trial and was completely established. One thing, however, was still wanting in the naval service, and that was a new and improved code of regulations and instructions for the government of the naval ser- vice, the date of the last edition of the old ones being 1833, and many alterations, additions, and improve- ments having been introduced since that period. A trial was made under Lord Minto's administration to get up a new edition, which was printed, and reprinted, a gentleman, who was not in the Admiralty, having been employed to dress them up, for which he received a sum of money ; but the volume was strangled in its birth, and never left the Admiralty Board-room. It was shown to Sir George Cockburn, he having previously intimated an intention of undertaking the task of altering, amend- ing, and extending the existing code, which had long been denounced as extremely defective and out of date. Sir George Cockburn werit carefully over what the late Board had done, pronounced the production incomplete and incorrect, and forthwith set about his intended new edition. As this undertaking was likely to be attended with great labour and expenditure of time, which, in his arduous situation, he could not well spare, he ap})lied to my son for his assistance in preparing, arranging, and putting through the press, the work in question, which when completed was found to extend to upwards of six hundred pages, and which, with that " constant ►N. [Sect. XIII. ind to do on the Sect. XIII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 461 and untiring attention,'' as expressed by Sir George, he accomplished in due time, to take upon himself the far more extensive and arduous task of extending and improving the record department of the Admiralty. When Sir George Cockburn retired from the office of Admiralty, he wrote my son the following letter : — " Admiralty, July 9, 1846. " Dear Sir, " I deem it to be right and fully due to you, previous to my quitting this office, to express how greatly I felt indebted to you for the able, willing, and indefatigable assistance I received from you, in compiling the existing book of regulations and instruc- tions for the government of the naval service. I attri- bute to your constant and untiring attention the truly satisfactory result that, in a work of such extensive professional detail, not one error or doubtful point has been discovered, though issued to the fleet more than two years back. " I therefore request you to receive from me this record of your valuable services on the occasion in question. " I remain, dear Sir, " Your very faithful servant, (Signed) "G. Cockburn. " Jolin Barrow, Esq." Sir George Cockburn did not retire at the termi- nation of Lord Haddington's administration, but con- sented to continue during the short one of the Earl of !'IJ f- '. 462 THE EARL OF HADDINGTON. [Sect. XIII. ■■K .i \ .;• ;■>■; ;■• '^.•} . «^- [■■ • ■.: vVV .*,* . • ■ ■' ■ r, « . .' Ellenborough, for reasons which his friends can well appreciate. When, in the usual course of service, my son arrived at the situation of one of the seniors of the office, and received his promotion, having originally entered tlic Admiralty under the patronage of Mr. Croker, he deemed it right and a proper point of duty, as well as of respect, to acquaint him thereof^ and in return re- ceived a kind reply, of which the following is an extract, dated West Molesey, 10th May, 1844:— * * * •* "It has been my good fortune that all myy^roZ/vr*' (with one or two very inconsiderable exceptions) have done credit to my selection, and no one, my dear John, more than yourself I appointed you to mark mv respect for my old and valued friend, your fiitiiei-, whose public service and private kindness to me made this small favour a mere instalment of a debt which neither the public nor I could alto[^ether repay. But since my first nomination it has been your own merit which has justified every step of your advancement." The kind and most flattering manner in which Mr. Croker has taken the occasion to introduce my name, is most gratifying, knowing it as I do to have been penned in sincerity and truth. A daily intercourse, with a few occasional exceptions, for more than twenty years, acting together in concert under the same roof tl)r the public service during that period, added to the intimacy that subsisted between our two families, which led to a connection of a closer nature — these are con- tingencies that require no further test or evidence of the fidelity of my Eight Honourable friend John AVilsoii Sect. XIII.] THE ADMIRALTY. 463 riends can well Croker, whose loss, by his retirement from the Admi- ralty at the time he deemed it fit to do so, and I may add, that also of Admiral Sir George Cockburn, occasioned me a more deep concern than the loss of any other two, in similar situations, that ever occurred among the many changes which took place subsequent to their departure ; not altogether, perhaps, though mainly, on personal considerations, but also from a firm conviction, that their places would not and could not be adequately supplied ; and I think I may be per- mitted to add, without the imputation of vanity, the tear of contradiction, or the disparagement of any one of our successors, that however great their talents for I'usiness may have been found, no two secretaries of the Admiralty, either before or since our time, have performed the duties of that oflSce more honestly, more zealously, and more efficiently than Mr. Croker and iiivself. The Admiralty at a future period, as already stated, had the good fortune once more to reap the advantage of the splendid and inexhaustible talents of the Right Hon. Sir George Cockburn, whose zeal for the service and whose indefatigable labours in the multifarious duties of the office of xVdmiralty, it is much to be feared, have proved injurious to his health. A little time previous to my retirement from office, on the death of Mr. Bedford, late keeper of the records, my son was appointed to that office, none of the senior chief clerks being desirous of succeeding to it on account of the constant and personally laborious duties attached to it, independent of the exercise of judgment ill the arrangement of the records, and the correctness of the digest or precis of them, on which part a reliance IM ^X ■ .ii \, ;.■ .1; -.■•••'.•' 464 THE EARL OF HADDINGTON. [Skct. XIII. km ' i\:m . .'' '9. ' ' .. -0 r.:i . , ■ ■» '.!■: ■ ■ . . • : " > ■ ■: ' f '■■ '■ t t , P' ' ;". i • ♦ • .' , :■ V ■ i ■( / :V • :) ■• :.^- ■ • •1; ; 1 %•■-.',' '.'• *.' •• '•■■ ■ ■ ' ' ' ■ ■ • * 1 • ' ■':' .t ].': .•■•! . i ; ' , ••■ ,i'.. • , • ;•;■■• "'■'^• I V . ■ .;.,.. %:';4-y .:'-'■..' ' ■ .••^^'!,^;'/ .•'■.■ . - • ••»• ' • '. - • / s .■.,'■,■.(? •■.,. .* ••<-.,■.♦ :-. ' . • ■ K' " 1: must be placed on others ; so that when any transaction is called for, that happened at a recent or distant ijciiod of time, the details of it may at once be produced. For this purpose there is kept in the record-office a digest of the whole correspondence, from and to the Adniirnltv, consisting of about forty thousand letters annually re- ceived; which digest occupies four immense volunus, unequalled, I believe, in point of weight and niaf-ni- tude, so as to require, when moved, the use of rolkis. In two of these volumes are digested alphabeticallv every sulked mentioned in the correspondence, and in two other similar ones, indexes in which every name is entered that occurs. The synoptical table, originally constructed by Mr. Finlayson, has recently been ex- tended and improved, to afford every facility in refer- ence either to subject or name, so that any information required by the Board or the secretaries can at once be given. For the due management of the record-office four clerks of the third class are required, two for enteiiiifi the digest and two for the index. For the sortinf;, marking, and classing, three others are required, one chief, one second, and one of the seniors of the tliird class ; and these operations and the searchings con- stantly called for, give full occupation to the whole. The office itself, or the working part, consists of two rooms. Thus it stood when I retired from the Admiralty. A discovery had shortly before this been made of a most important nature. It was nothingness than that of a seriesof Admiralty records, commencing with James II. Duke of York, when Lord High Admiral, that had been crowded into the very highest and extensive Sixr. XIII.J THE ADMIHALTY. ■iG^ ;;arrets of the Adniirulty building, some in half-bound volumes, others in bundles, rolls, and loose papers, ])ilcd up in whole streets or lanes of shelves or pigeon- lioles, stuft'ed in without arrangement or any kind of order; the ground-floors of these lanes also strewed with doeuments of various descriptions. These ex- tensive alleys, thus crammed and blocked up, required no little experience even to become master of their geography. When taken u}) to view them, by my son, I blushed with shame to have been nearly forty years in the building and never to have known, or even suspected, the existence of these regions, or of the valuable trea- sures they contained. My son was (piite ready and (it'sirous to overhaul them, and to arrange them, or the most important of them, in tangible order, pro- vided a suitable place could be found to contain them. Lord Haddington and the Board visited the den ; beiug, I believe, the first IJoard in modern times that had done so ; and it so happened that, just at this time, the Secretary (Mr. Sidney Herbert) had given Uj) his large dwelling-house to be thrown into the office, and ill the new arrangement that was made in the distri- bution of the apartuKjnts, four oflice-rooms en suite were aihled to the recoril-office, for the reception of these valuable papers, well fitted with suitable shelves, which are already well filled, yet the garret-alleys not one- third exhausted. I am not sure whether Lord Auckland and his Board visited the garrets with the old lumber still re- maining in the closets and corners of the narrow alleys; but J believe Mr. Ward inspected them; and his 2h > -■ i^ .4... ■'. -.1 '- .^ Ifv':^:'^-. i' "T 1 ^ ' i 1 } ' 'i ' ■■\ If *1 i' ■ t'. i , ir :*■ • ' ■ • \ , .■■>.. < . - i 46() TilK EARL OF HADDINGTON. [Skct. XIII. Lordship and the Board visited the new rooms, set apart by the late arrangements, in which the vahiablc records have now been deposited, after being cleaned and neatly bound ; and their Lordships expressed theii- satisfaction at the change*, and the two secretaries, Mr. Ward and Captain Hamilton, drew up a report, to be read at the Board, which thus concludes : — " We cannot close this report without expressing our sense of the merits and exertions of Mr. Barrow, now at the head of the llecord-Officc, by whose efforts tlie whole of the valuable documents connected with the department since the year 1688 have been brought into the most perfect order, and so arranged as to be ac- cessible whenever required. The Board minutes — the orders in council — the proceedings of courts martial— the opinions of the law-officers of the crown upon naval matters since the year 1733* — the dispatches of officers M'hose names and exploits must ever be associated with the most brilliant periods of English history — have been saved from impending destruction in the garrets to which they were formerly consigned, and now pre- sent a model of symmetrical arrangement, most credit- able to the Admiralty, and to the officer by whose labours and under whose personal superintendence this most desirable change has been effected in the short space of two years. " We trust that their Lordships v ill feel it due to Mr. Barrow to place upon record their sense of his * A whole century of the law-officers' opiuions, prior to this, were carried off, with a mass of other documents of all sorts, by a messenger of the name of Somerville, wiio \\as transported some thirty years ago. 4 \«' skot. xiir.] THE ADMIRALTY. 467 exertions, which have not hitherto been rewarded by that expression of their Lordships' satisfaction to which we think him most fully entitled."* But to resume. Lord Haddington was determined not to let me take my departure from the Admiralty unaccompanied by a " venerable relic," that mi^ht keep in my recollec*'*on the many years it had been my daily, I might almost say hourly, companion. His Lordship's jocular note will explain the " relic," and is at the same time characteristic Oi his playful good- humour. " Monday, Feb. 3, 1845. " My dear Sir John, " There is ' a venerable relic ' here that I thought you might like to possess, as you are an anti- quary. It has not the recommendation of rust, but it is very inkt/ indeed ; and I have directed that no sacri- legious hand should be aj)plied to it for the purpose of reiiioving the venerable stains. " Your old friends here beg your acceptance of the huge and time-honoured desk you wot of. " Believe me, with much truth and regard, " Ever yours, " Haddington." iiiions, prior to this, And now, my Lord, I take my last official leave of you and your good colleagues, with thanks for all your and their kindnesses, including the possession of the old desk, which you have now placed in a fair way of * Tliis paper was read and placed in my son's hands by TMr. Ward, at a full meeting of the Board. 2 H 2 J- .. ft- •• . Irf,:. H ;'•■•■ ^ ■• ■iif'J;^ •1 -■ •• • , ' i' ■ '■• ■ • 4G8 THE EAKL OF HADDINGTON. [Sect. XHI descending in my family till it becomes a relic of a more venerable antiquity than when 1 received it, I cannot, however, conclude this Memoir without an expression of the gratitude I entertain, and the affec- tionate regard I feel, for one of my own family — my daughter Mary Jane — for the attention and ability she cheerfully bestowed on the revision and correction of the pre^', not only f(^r the present volume, but also for two or three former ones — a species of literary labour, which I am as little qualified to perform myself as I believe most rapid writers are, especially of their own works : and for the relief thus cordially afforded uie, I am desirous to record this tribute of praise, to whicli I consider her so justly entitled. m V. ' '1. • . f ■i' A ' ,1 V«- •• \ ■■ii ]■'■ ^ .• ,.» . v %•• » 1 •.;•■•■ I <H * . I ■ ,/,:'/V. -^^^^ '•'•*: '.^ : y. ( 469 ) CHAPTER v.— SUPPLEMENTARY. Section I. RETIREMENT FROM PUI5L1C LIFE. Various Complimentary Letters on the Occasion — Em- ployment of Leisure Time after a Busy Life — Hoiv my own has been occupied. Forty years having transpired since my original entry into the Admiralty as Second Secretary, and having attained the 81st year of my age, I thought it right and proper — though in robust health, strength, and my usual activity of mind — to retire from the situation I had so long held, and to give place to a successor. Though I felt some regret in taking leave of those with many of whom I had been in daily intercourse, yet the numerous changes towards the latter part of the period, and the new faces brought with them, had, in some degree, made my parting with the old ones more a matter of course. I therefore wrote an official letter to the Board, having first communicated my intention to Lord Haddington, requesting their Lordships' per- mission to resign my office, to which I received the following official reply : — "Admiralty, January 28tli, 1845. "Sir, " I have received and laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty your letter of this (late, requesting permission to resign your situation of « ! !- i '■} . ■ n )•.; • 1 ( P. ■■■:' \' ! ' 1 1^ ,:'■■■'■ I'l'^ "• i'i|f.'irf 470 RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. [Sup. Cuai Second Secretary to their Lordships ; and I am com- manded by my Lords to acquaint you that, in accent- ing your resignation, the Board beg to assure you of their best wishes for your health and happiness in a retirement honourably earned and naturally sought for, at your advanced age, after half a century of laborious public life. " During the many years of your connection with this department you have served the public usefully, no less by the zeal with which you have endeavoured to render science subservient to our naval and commercial in- terests, than by your assiduous attention to the arduous duties of your important office. " My Lords also desire me to acquaint you that your request that your resignation should be made known to the Treasury shall be forthwith complied with. " I have the honour to be, &c., &c., " Sidney Herbert." . .: • it . ^• (i •■■;;■■ i •■■■ *,■■:'':: , ■■ ■ 1 I had previously, as I felt it a duty, acquainted Sir Eobert Peel with my intention ; and not merely as a duty, but as a mark of respect and gratitude in the opportunity it afforded me of acknowledging the many favours and acts of kindness he had bestowed on nie during a very long acquaintance. On this occasion 1 received from him the following gratifying reply :— " Wliitehall, January lOtli, 184o. " My dear Sir, " I cannot allow you to retire from the public service without conveying to you my high \A''*- 1 • ■» Sect. I.] RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. 471 sense of the services which you have rendered to the public during a long and honourable career, and ex- pressing my cordial wishes that you may long enjoy, ill a private station, health and happiness. " Believe me, my dear Sir, with sincere regard, " Most faithfully yours, " KoBERT Peel. « Sir John Barrow, Bart." I also thought it right and becoming to let my excellent old master, Lord Melville, know of my inten- tion, and received from him the following : — " Melville Castle, January 1st, 1845. " My dear Barrow, " I am not surprised on receiving your letter to-day, though very much obliged by your recollection of my former communication. I must say that you have had to undergo your full share of official labour; and most assuredly the public have no further claim upon you if it be agreeable to you to retire. '< With the strongest wishes for your still seeing the return of many new years' days, with the same good health and sound constitution, I remain " Yours most truly and sincerely, "JMelville." nuary lOtli, 184.). The following, from my esteemed colleague the Right Honourable Sidney Herbert, alludes to a pro- mise I had made to him, while in the Admiralty, that I would sit for my portrait, which he wished to present to the Admiralty, to be hung up in the Secretary's room. •'■ )• i .:' -:■.'■ '■ • U.;,...W I.'. 'lif I'i L' I >V :• ^• 1 . I' ■?'■»'. " .'■■ aw;;;-' i f' ■I 'I 'i '■r..i,^ 472 RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. [Sui". Chap. " War-Office, April 23r(l, 184(5, " My dear Sir John, "When we left the Admiralty, you kindly promised to sit to Mr. Lucas for your portrait, with which I wished to enrich the collection in the Secretary's dining-room. "Mr. Lucas informs me that he is now at your disposal, and ready to fix any hour for a sitting that may be convenient to you. "May I, therefore, claim the execution of your promise, and ask you to arrange a time with Mr. Lucas, whose direction is 3, St. John's Wood lload ? " I would ask your pardon for this attemj)t to inflict on you the most wearisome of all occnpation.s ; but it is one of the taxes on eminence, which you have no right to escape. Pray believe me " Most faithtuily yours, "Sidney IIli. mert. " Sir John Barrow, Bart." Among the many kind leave-takings I received, none gave me more sincere pleasure than the followiiiL^, from a very old colleague and one of the ablest men that this country affords ; not only in a professional point of view, but in general science and sound judg- ment: and who, whenever he thinks fit to retire from the very arduous situation of Ilydrographer to the Admiralty, I trust will receive, in acknowledgment of his long and eminent services, that reward which is so justly his due, with such ])roper distinguishing marks of honour as he may desire, and the Board of Admiralty has the power — as it must have the inclination— to recommend : — "I . E. [Sup. Chap. Skct. I.] RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. 473 pril 23r(l, 1846. "Admiralty, January 29th, 1845. " My dear Sir John, " I might have been contented with my share of the sentiments which were so well expressed by Mr. Amedroz, in his letter to you of last Mondjiy ; and I might have rested equally contented and flattered by appropriating to myself a small share of those kind and cheering sentiments which filled your reply to him. " Yet, after having been for so many years in daily communication with you, so long worked under your directions, and so continually profited by your experi- ence and judgment, I cannot forrgo the opportunity of saying, in a more direct form, how deeply I regret the separatioji that has this day taken place, and the con- se([uent loss to the office in every point of view, whether public or personal ; individually, to me greater than to any one, from your extensive knowledge on all those subjects which it is my duty to culti' ate. Indeed, when I look back at the many remarkable men with whom I have served afloat or ashore, I can safely say that there are very few of them that will come to my remembrance more frequently, more strongly, or more pleasingly than you ; and none that will be so usefully and stimuladnglij associated with all the best of my pursuits. "Among the painful impressions, however, which your withdrawal has produced, I fuel it to be a source of great pleasure and consolation that, before it took place, you had succeeded in j)rovi(liiig for a finishing (and, 1 trust, crowning) voyage of discovery to those regions from which you have derived so much fame, > I •t > t i'f»(''f( jiii x . •M ■Si,. •I"* *■ • ■ Ml i^; .c*", '^ 474 RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. [Sur. Chap. and with which your name will be bound up for ever. " I am, my dear Sir John, " Faithfully and gratefully yours, " F. Beaufort." The letter of Mr. Amedroz, to which that too flattering epistle of Captain (now Admiral) Beaufort alludes, is from the Chief Clerk of the Admiralty, who is much my senior in that office, though not in age, and who writes at the request of the gentlemen of the Admiralty. This is to me the • lore gratifying, as, with every endeavour on all fit occasions, I have been able to accomplish but very little to their advantage iiidi- vidurdly or collectively, though I have considered aiul represented them to be most deserving of it ; for a more attentive, efficient, and well-conducted class of gentle- men (mostly of a middle age) it has not been my good fortune to meet with ; and they may be assured I take leave of them with regret. "Admiralty, 27th January, 184o. " My dear Sir John, " 1 have been requested by many of the gentle- men of the office to convey to you the expression of tlie deep regret which we feel in seeing the termination of a long intercourse with a chief from whom we have ever met with uniform kindness. *' In those who have been the longest in the Ad- miralty, as in those who have more recently entered it, there is but one sentiment as to the manner in which you have exercised your office. Throughout a })oriod of forty-one years our interests have always found in you a generous supporter ; you have always shown us FE. [Sur. Chap. Sect. 1.] RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. 475 bound up for illy yours, . Beaufort." ivhich that too iiiral) Beaufort Admiralty, who igh not in age, entlemen of the itifying, as, with have been able advantage indi- considered aiul of it ; for a more class of gentlc- )t been my good e assured I take th January, 184o. ny of the gentle- expression of the tie termination of 1 whom we have igest in the Ad- cently entered it, manner in which oughout a period always found in always shown us the good-will and indulgence of a kind friend, and we intreat you to be assured that, in leaving us, you carry with you the sincerest respect and gratitude, and the warmest good wishes of all who have had the pleasure and the advantage of serving under you. " I have the honour to be, my dear Sir John, "Your mucl. obliged, &c., " H. F. Amedroz. " Sir John Barrow, Bart." "Admiralty, 27th January, I84o. " My dea' Mr. Amedroz, " After a public service of forty years, passed under the same roof with yourself, and a period not far short of it with several others, and a great length of time with more of the gentlemen employed in the same service of the Admiralty, I cannot permit myself to take a final leave of you and them, without wishing to express the strong sense I entertain and the obliga- tion I feel for the ready and constant attention I ex- perienced from yourself and all the others, to the maiii- fold requisitions which our respective situations com- pelled me frequently to make, and which, it is due to all of you to say, were on all occasions responded to with cheerfulness and alacrity. " I feel it also due to all to state what my long ex- perience enables me to do — that there cannot be, and I am satisfied there is not any one department of the Government in which so great a quantity of labour is required and executed with such limited means to per- form it, as exists in the ofiice of Admiralty, a labour er bracing^ moreover, every variety of subject, or that is performed with more correctness, dispatch, and .I'i'ln ''<■''. . K-\ •; ■■ *■ ^:»!* • -i ''., <■•■ •!. ■♦ ,( ■ . ■•■■ .' ii . .. - <<. him- . rM, ?! \' li^-.;;:; • ; '» •••■ •-■.■, .•,-«.• W:,:r:::V:, 4'i6 15ETIUEMENT FROM PUHLIC LIFE. [Sup. Ciui.. good-will than is done by the gentlemen of the respect- ive departments of the Admiralty-office. "I am the more solicitous to leave at my depar- ture this testimony to the merits of those it is in- tended to concern, ibr occasions may arise to render it of some little service, as I sincerely wish it to do : and in this view, should you think ])roper, you may place it on the records of the office as the last act of your secretary ; and I will further request that you will com- municate this note of my sentiments to all your col- leagues, and with every good wish for the conriuuaiicd of health and happiness to you and all, " I remain, with sincerity, &c., " Yours, " John Baukow." All these testimonies of Vind feeling, accompanied by many others from various quarters, expressed at a time when the little influence I might have hooii supposed to possess, while in oflfice, had finally ceased, could not be otherwise than highly flattering and most satisfactory to the receiver of them ; but none could be more gratifying and heartfelt than the fol- lowing from a different class of gentlemen, all of them oflficers of high distinction in the British Navv, and whose conduct throughout a most arduous employ- ment of a series of years may safely be said to have no parallel. I allude to our recent Arctic voyagers, who have so nobly sustained the high and unflinching cha- racter of British naval officers by their persevering and adventurous spirit in exploring unknown frozen seas, making new discoveries in geography, in objects of scientific research, in experiments in meteorology and E. [Sup. Chap, of the respect- at iny dcpar- those it is iii- ise to render it 1 it to do : and L)ii may place it st act of your t you will eoin- ;o all your col- the coutinuaiKie Skct. I.] iiryriHEMENT from puhlic life. 477 UN BAiiiKnv." jg, acconij)aiiiod ;'s, expressed at light have been d finally ceased, ttering and most but none could than the fol- iutlenien, all of le British Navy, arduous eniploy- ! said to have no ;ic voyagers, wlio unflinching cha- persevering and lown frozen seas, y, in objects of meteorology and natural history, and, in short, by extending the limits of human knowledge; and, moreover, what is above all praise and most worthy of admiration, by the uncom- plaining and (piiet resignation to the Divine will on the part of those wiiose sufferings from intense cold and the extremity of famine were far beyond an^ known examjde. It was in honour of these brave and talented men that, in my leisure hours, I sat down to record, in a more accessible form thau' the ofHicial narratives are conveyed, an account of their exploits and sufferings in the Arctic regions. Indeed, I am not sure that the following most gratifying letter, accompanied with an elegant testimonial in the shape of a candelabrum, did not contribute, as it ought, to expedite on my part the coinjdetioii of that small volume, which had but then been faintly conceived : — " London, 20th March, 1845. " Dear Sir John iJarrow, " We are deputed by several oflficers, who have had the honour of being employed on the various Arctic expeditions, by sea and land, to request your acceptance of the accompanying piece of plate, as a testimony of their personal esteem, and of the high sense they entertain of the talent, zeal, and energy which you have unceasingly tlisplayed in the promotion of Arctic discovery, "We are sincerely gratified in being made the medium of this comnumication, and gladly avail our- selves of the opportunity thus aftbrded to us, of express- ing to you our own cordial regard and obligation, b)getlier with our earnest hope that, in retiring from a long and honourable course of public service, you may t :' ^y^i:.. •I J . ■• ■ 4: ;■•■• I ■'.' '■ * I:' I i I ■. 478 RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. [Sup. Chap. be permitted to enjoy, in private life and in the bosom of your family, many years of health, happiness, and prosperity. " We have the honour to be, " Dear Sir John Barrow, " Your obliged friends and faithful servants, (Signed) " E. W. Paiuiv, "John Franklin, " James Ross, " Geo. Back, " Captains of the Royal Navy. "iSir John Barrow, Bart., LL.D., F.R.S." List of Officers referred to in the foregoituf Letter. NaiiK'S and Rank. Captain Sir \V. E. l\arry, Sir John Franklin, Fred. W. Beechey, Sir J as. C. Koss, Sir Geo. Back, Horatio J. Austin, F. R. M. Crozier, Jos. Sherer, Edward J. Bird, Wm. Sniitii, Owen Stanley, Col. Sabine, Dr. J. Richardson, M.D. Commander Matthew Liddon, Peter Fisher, Names and Rank. Commanc'er Arch. M'Miinli), Lieutenant Andrew Reid, Wm. J. Dtaly, Cha,«i. Palmer, Berkeley West- ropp, Edw. N. Kenual, Graham Gore, Chaplain, Uev. Geo. Fislier, Surgeon, John Edwards, C. J. Beverley, G M'Diarmid, jvI.D. Allan M'Lareii, Purser, James liaise. The inscription on the pedestal of the candelabrum corresponds with the terms of the letter. One of the oldest and the ablest of my surviving friends, and my senior by five years, but who departed this life in October, 1846, was sure not to fail in his ."1 TE. [Sup. Chai'. Pi:cT. I.] RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. 479 d in the bosom happiness, and hful servants, AURY, lANKLIN, OSS, CK, Royal Navy. congratulations on any subject interesting or gratifying to nie. Few men possessed such a fund of knowledge, so clear an intellect, and so perfect a memory to co ii- iiiunicate it to others, as Mr. Murdoch, and he had the liappiness to retain his faculties to the last day of his lite. Up to that period, scarcely a wc.k paosed in which I did not spend a couple of hours in his com- pany, and 1 never left it witiiout a new acquisition of knowledge, more particularly in any curious circum- stance drawn out of the old Spanish and Portuguese voyages, in which his recollection of details was quite wonderful. oinff Letter. ni's aiul Rank. r AtcIi. M'Munlo, lit Andrew Kei<l, Wni. J. Dealy, Clias. PalnuT, Ik'rkek'V ^Vt•^lt- ropp, Edw. N. Keiiual, Graham 'jicre, in, Kev. Geo. Fislier, m, John Edwards, C. J. Beverley, G M'Dianuid, rtl.D. Allan M'Lareii, >r, James liaise. the candelabrum ;r. of my survivinji but who departed not to fail in his " 8, Portland Place, 26th March, 1845. " My dear Sir John Barrow, " My daughter has just informed me that the Arctic committee have presented you with a beautiful tt'stinionial for your great services in promoting voyages of discovery. The gift is rendered doubly valuable t'loni the character of the donors, so capable of appre- ciating the merit of the man, to whom they have given this mark of their esteem ; long may he live to enjoy it. " During forty years that you were a secretary of the Admiralty you were the constant and the success- ful advocate of those voyages of discovery, which have enlarged the bounds of science and done so i.iuch honour to the British navy and nation. The enduring fortitude and untiring enterprise with which Parry and Koss and Franklin and Back braved the rigours of a Polar winter and the perils of a frozen sea, will render their names for ever famous in the annals of '.avigation, and the name of Barrow will be associated with them l>y posterity. 1'« • . I ' 4H0 liKTlHKMENT FliOM I'UHLIC LIFE. iSti-. Chai-. *' Tills is porhfips the Inst' letter that I shall attempt to write, for even with the sun shining on my paper it is hut iniperf'eetly visihle. '* Yours, ever faithfully, *' Tiios. MuiiDocu. " Sir John Burrow, Hart., "New Stri't't, Sprinjf (Janleiis," There was one of the Arctic officers uiost highly esteemed lor his extensive ae(juirements in natural his- tory, and still more so for his humanity and amiable disposition, who, hy some unaccountable oversight, was not rewarded as he ought to have been ; it might have arisen from a great portion of his time and attention having been for live or six years employed in bringing out the Fawui Borcali^ or ' Natural History of the Arctic Regions,' in the four departments of mammalia, birds, fishes, and insects, with plates and descriptions, in as many folio volumes. The gentleman to whom 1 allude, it is almost unnecessary to say, is Dr. (now Sir John) liichardson, whose case I determined in the last year of my service to bring forward in such a manner as to be irresistible, and I succeeded in pre- vailing on Lord Haddington to make application to Sir James Graham to obtain for him the honour of knight- hood. I may mention an incident which marks an amiable stamj) on the character of the individual in question. While the title was in progress intimation was conveyed to me that Dr. liichardson had been attacked with severe paralysis. I wrote instantly to Haslar Hospital to inquire after him ; the answer was that it was only a fainting fit, occasioned by stooj)ing too long, and that he was then quite well. It turned out, that he was employing himself in stooping to ])lant Skct. I.] RETIUEMKNT FHOM PUHI.K.^ LIFK. 4HI llovvers {uul evergreens round the grave of h !s lute wife, whom he had recently lost. Anotlier trait may he mentioned. Having himself made no application nor expressed any desire to be knighted, Lord Haddington asked me if 1 was sure it would be acceptable. "That," I said, "shall be ascertained." On seeing him, I iisked him if knighthood would be agreeable, provided it could be obtained. His answer to me was, " As a mark of approbation from the Government for my services, it could not be otherwise, but it would have been nuich more so, had it been granted in the life-time of my beloved wife." These are pleasing traits of strong domestic affection, and correspond, as I have been informed, with the whole tenor of his life. There is another brave officer in whose behalf I was so greatly interested that, after my retirement, I strongly urged the Board to grant his promotion. The officer in question is Commander Fitzjames, who accompanies Franklin on his present voyage, and on whom the Board has been pleased to confer the rank of Cai)tain. These are the only favours I asked on my retiring from office, and they will not be considered as unworthily bestowed when conferred on meritorious officers like these. I asked nothing and obtained no- thing for myself or for any part of my family. It has been my good fortune through life never to have solicited a single favour, yet to have received many. It may not perhaps be considered unreasonable should friends ap])rehend that, when an individual on the verge of life has given up an office of labour unabated during a period of forty years, he will be apt to pine away and become desponding, for want of something to 2 I ••Ki i ;-: •.' ) >' 482 '■K''' '! ) "in K'li- 1 » • •A . ' RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. [Sup. Chap. employ the mind, which indeed was surmised in 180G, when I was forty years younger than in the latter case, and had only been in office at home about two years, at the termination of which Mr. Grey dispensed with my fur- ther services. I then laughed at such nonsense, went down with my family to Hastings, where I wrote the ' Life of Lord Macartney,' in two vols., 4to., made the acquaint- ance of old Mr. Planta, of Mr. Milward, Lis son and two daughters, the principal inhabitants of the place, and of Sir James Bland Burgess, of Beauport, who, on seeing my immense MSS., took for granted I must be a literary character, and said he belonged to the Lite- rary Society, of which Dr. Vincent the Dean of West- minster was President; that Sir William Scott, Avc\\- deacon Nares, Anstie, Sotheby, John Kemble, &c., were members, and John Reeves their treasurer ; and thtat he should write up to town and propose me as a candi- date, observing that the gh one black ball excluded, I was already sufficiently known to prevent anything of the kind happening to me. I told him that he should be held responsible should such a mishap occur. I was fortunate enough to be elected ; and until last year was still a member, and I believe had contiimed till I be- came father of the club, of which Sir Robert Inglis is now President ; and I may venture to say that, without any exception, it is the best and most varied intel- lectual dining club in London, containing the most emi- nent men in the highest sta^.on of divinity, law, and physic, together with artists equally eminent, poets, his- torians, and philosophers. Being deeply, however, impressed with the truth of the maxim of one of the wisest of men, that " there is a time for all things," and that mine was drawing towaids Sect. I.] RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. 483 its conclusion, I requested our excellent president to present my resignation to the members of the club, and I need not say with what gratification I received the answer which follows : — " 7, Bedford Square, July 6, 1846. " My dear Sir John Barrow, "I have to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of the 2nd, addressed to myself individually, and of that also therein enclosed which you addressed to nie more immediately, as in the chair of the Literary Society. Even that, however, contained so much too Utittcring a reference to me, that I was unable to read the Avhole to the friends assembled; but I read ^uo much when I read the mere fact of your resignation. I added, indeed, all that you said about the pleasure of your past intercourse with the society ; and I am in- structed to inform you that while they feel bound, tliough with great regret, to accept the tender of your resignation, they have indulged themselves in retaining your nauic oii their list by transferring it to the section of the ten honorary members, in which there was a vacancy. Without feeling the burthen of attendance, you will thus, we hope, if God shall spare you in the enjoyment of your average health, sometimes in the season again present yourself among us ; but lest this, even thus shadowed forth, should seem to impose any obligation upon you, as to personal suit and service, I :;uist add that while we suall always value your appear- ance we are content to keep your name alone — a name so long and valuably associated with us. Believe me, my dear Sir John Barrow, " Most truly yours, " Robert H. Inglis." 2i2 (( i-i. ; i-i I'*** I : fl. 484 RETIUEMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. [Sup. Chap 'ir,.. d ■•I.! if IK: In. ,;if>' ;■ VJ f ■;■ ♦ 'i . ^■■. • ,. .:'H I am now also father of the lloyal Society, and within one of the Hoyal Society Club, having punc- tually attended the latter from the days of Sir Joseph Banks, Doctor Blagdon, Doctor Wollaston, Mr. Davies Gilbert, Sir Everard Home, the hydrographer Dal- ryniple, Cavendish, Sir Humphry Davy, and many other cultivators of science and philosophy, all of whom have long since departed this life. It is the last society I shall relinquish. It was proposed to me to assist in establishing, while still in the Admiralty, a Royal Geographical Sociotv. This proposition was made at the table of my late esteemed friend, Mr. Sotheby, with whom I believe it originated, when the subject was discussed, and a general wish expressed that some one could be found who had energy and zeal sufficient to propose and carry througli the formation of such a society; and the unanimous opinion was that if I would undertake it, there was no doubt of its success. After much pressing I consented to make the proposal at the Raleigh Club, in the establish- ment of which I had been one of three, and which had become very flourishing. Notice was given that such a proposition would be made on the 24th of May, 1830. The meeting was large, and I addressed it from tlio chair, stating the objects of the proposed society, and that its progress would very much depend on the en- couragement received from a society of travellers like that of the Raleigh. Paper was called for, and two-thirds at least put down their names, willing to abide by the regulations to be made. In the first place, I had the approbation of Sir Robert Peel, through him Kin;; AVilliam IV. became our patron, the Duke of Sussex vice-patron, and Lord Goderich was appointed })resi- 1 V StCT. I.] RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. 485 dent. The King gave an annual medal of fifty guineas for the promotion of discovery ; and, in short, the pub- lication of the first volume of the Journal comprehended a list of 535 names, most of them eminent in arts, sciences, and literature. The following is Sir Robert Peel's letter on the subject : — " Whitehall, October 2o, 1830. " My dear Sir, " I have the satisfaction of informing you that the Kir.;; has notified to me his ready acquiescence in the wish which you expressed on behalf of the Geo- [;i-aphical Society that His Majesty would consent to be Patron of the Society. " His Majesty has also desired me to inform you that he proposes to place fifty guineas annually at the dis- posal of the Society, as a Royal premium for the encou- ragement of geographical science and discovery. " I am, my dear Sir, " Faithfully yours, " Robert Peel. " John Barrow, Esq., Admiralty." I cannot imagine the nature of the constitutions of those who feel miserable in retirement for want of eiin)loynient. To such I would recommend a page of the amiable Cowper, who says, — '* Friends, books, a garden, and perliaps his pen. Delightful industry enjoy 'd at home, Can he want occu})ation who has these?" For my own part, I have them all except the garden, and that is supplied, as far as Lon(h)n admits, by my daughter. I have also the unrestrained use of the beautiful public gardens ; and when I add that the pen is, this IGth day ■f '' ) ' 486 RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. [Sup. Chap. m 'H^: :% 1!;. i i ■ : i ' Hi-' IA-' i; 41 ;- V '•1.'' ' 1- 1 ^?|, ... ■ -I ft •,* of April, 1847, employed in writing the present page, it may be concluded that I am not passing the day in idleness. I had already prepared and published, within twelve months of my resignation of the Admiralty, a volume from the Voyages of Discovery in the Arctic Regions, which I do not regret, as it afforded me not only employment, but a six months' pleasing recveatiou ; and, what is of more importance and a higher gratili- cation to myself, it has received the approbation of those brave fellows who are the main objects of my labours in that production — to set forth more generally their excellent characters and conduct — their nniiinch- ing perseverance in difficulties of no crdinary kind — their patient endurance of extreme sufltcring, borno without complaint or murmur, and with an equanimity and fortitude of mind, under the most appalling distress, such, perhaps, as was never equalled — affording rare and s])lendid examples of moral courage and mental triumph over fatigue, famine, and starvation, wliicii nothing but a firm reliance on a merciful Protector and rf'signation to His Divine will could have sup])()rt(.(l. But they had within themselves powers of body and mind not inferior to those ascribed by Dr. Johnson to the Swedish Charles: — »' A frame of adamant, a soul of fir No dangers frigiit them, and no labours tire." ire, I have felt, and have so expressed myself in the ])re- face of the work alluded to, a most gratifying reflection that few lives (in some of the ships none) have bciii lost ; that those who survived have been advanced in their professional career, or have received some honour- able distinction in reward of their services ; and that few 2. [Sur. Chap. Sect. I.] RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. 487 3urs tire. of those in the inferior ranks remain without having improved their condition in life, in consequence of their good conduct on very trying occasions. In fact, these voyages have held out such fine examples of strict discipline without corporal punishment, of kind treat- ment and wholesome indulgence on the part of the officers, and, in consequence thereof, of cheerful obedi- ence, exertion, and alacrity on that of the men, that I am inclined to believe that a onsideration of the great benefit likely to be derived from the knowledge of such examples being extended to the Navy at large, may have induced the Board of Admiralty, as I un- derstand it has done, to order the publisher to prepare 300 copies of the work in question, to be added to the officers' and seamen's library in ships of war — an order which is the more gratifying to me, as it has been done entirely without my knowledge, and without my having the least pecuniary interest in the sale of the book, or any other interest except that of thus proving to the world, that the Arctic voyages have not been made in vain. I am not insensible of praise, but always grateful ^^laudari a law/ato." The following is from Admiral the Baron Wrangel, no mean judge of the subject : — " Sir John Barrow's interesting work has found its way h'ther (St. Petersburg), and has be^^n highly ap- proved of by all who have read it. It was precisely such a collected account of the Arctic voyages as we were in want ofj particularly just now, when all who are interested in the progress of Arctic discovery are looking forward with great interest to the result of the late expedition of the ' Erebus ' and ' Terror.' " 5th September, 184(5." » ' 488 RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. [Sup. Cuap. ■ .1,. 1 1 . 1 1: .' ' (-1 i'^ ' I'; ' ri ,. • ■f .« ' I > • •• 4 ''N * J* ; •! ) f^U. '■.♦ if ■ .-. *"i ! / * '■ • .a .' What the fate of this present volume may be, I pro- bably must leave to my su^'vivors to experience. To trace my progress through the vicissitudes of a life extended beyond the general period of human cxistenco, and, by the mercy of God, without any painful suffer- ing from accident or disease, has been my object; more with a view of benefiting my children and theirs, by the example it holds forth of industrious habits, than with any other. But as mine may be considered a peculiar — or, at least, an unusual — case as regards the state of bodily health, I may here venture to take a special notice of it. The medical gentleman — an honest Quaker — who brought me into the world, inoculated me when very young for the small-pox, and gave me, no doubt, a dose or two for the measles ; but I am not conscious of ever having had my pulse felt from that period, except by the Chinese physician at Chusaii, already mentioned. On noticing this to Sir Henry llalford, at the Club, who had asked me how I con- trived to preserve such uniform good health without medical advice, my reply was, " Probably for that very reason, as I am not aware of any other." lie laughed, and said, he knew not what would become of his profession if all men followed my enample. Since writing this, in December, 1846, being somewhat in- disposed, I was entreated to consult my old and kind friend Sir Benjamin Brodie, who set me right in twenty-four hours. In early life, and up to my fortieth year, my days were mostly spent in out-door exercise on land, and in all climates from 80° north to 40° south lati- tude by sea. As a pedestrian I travelled several thousand miles, chiefly in South Africa, and a full Sect. 1.] RETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. 489 thousand in China. During the last forty years of my life I scarcely took any exercise, except in the summer evenings when not occupied at my desk ; and for a month or six weeks each summer in some part of the country — chiefly at my friend Sir George Staunton's beautiful place, Leigh Park ; except twice or thrice I had a run on the Continent. I have always been a moderate eater of plain food, and a moderate drinker, mostly of port-wine. From invariable habit I seldom if ever recpiire to have recourse to any kind of medicine. I have either read or heard that the child inherits mostly the constitution of body and mind from the female parent. I can say that my mother never ailed anything while I was with her, nor to her last illness, which was that of old age, for she died in her ninetieth year ; and lier mother had com- pleted ninety at her death. I am now writing this trifle in my eighty-third year, which will be completed, should my life be extended to the 19th of June, 1847. It is a common observation that air and exercise are tlie best ])roinoters or preservers of health : but perhaps its stability may mostly be ascribed to constitutional liabit. For the first forty years of my life, as I have before said, no one could be more exposed to good air and plenty of exercise than myself; for the last forty years I was doomed almost entirely to a sedentary life ; yet in neither case, as already observed, had I occasion to call in the doctor; nor could I percive any change ill the habit of body, except that of being somewhat less active — yet not much so — during the last two or three years : my weight has never varied more than from ten tu eleven stoi.e. After all, much may be ascribed to *■.'.-■ .!■.■• I,i ■•■"■•■.., I ''i^ ■'• ii! i-r-- . .•■ '■," -1. V - ! .<A . ?".'• 490 KETIREMENT FROM PUBLIC LIFE. [Sup. Chap. a regular and systematic course of life, to moderation in eating and drinking, and avoiding excess in both. In this portion of my Memoir I feel I am too aufo- bmjrapliical ; which is, perhaps, excusable, as it is in- tended chiefly for the edification of my own family, and I shall conclude, therefore, with an anecdote for the physiologist, though not very creditable to myself, as it must exhibit me in a state of unconsciousness fur once and only once in the course of my life. One of the principal gentlemen of the Cape of Good Hope gave a sumptuous entertain i.ient on the west slope of the Table Mountain, as high up the sloping part as where it is terminated by the wall of stone that forms the cap of the mountain. Here, at the height of about 3500 feet or more, was our roj)ast ; and the champagne passed briskly round among a party of between forty and fifty gentlemen. When the niglit was setting in I was anxious to get away ; and with some diflUculty succeeded in finding my Spanish pony, and contrived to steal away and cautiously and slowly to get down the steep, rocky, and shrubby slope into the Cape Town road, perfectly steady and sober ; but all at once a giddiness came over me, and increased so far as to deprive me of all self-control. Wliat happened to me during the three or four miles I had to ride I know nothing; but when the little pony arrived at its home, in a full gallop, down I fell upon the ground, and from the shock I suppose I felt myself sober enough. On the next day I was complimented by many of those whom I had met or passed on the road in a full gallop, "That John Gilpin himself could not have done better." The pony, it seems, being well 3. [Sup. Chap. Sect. I.] RETIREMENT PROM PUBLIC LIFE. 491 to moderation l;ss in both. am too (uito- )lo, as it is in- y own family, iiecdote for the to myself, as nsciousness for ife. the Cape of ini.ient on the s high np the by the wall of tain. Here, at was our re})ast; I among a i);irty ^Vhen the night iway ; and with f Spanish ])ony, iisly and slowly ubby sh)pe into and sober; but , and increased -control. What tbnr miles I had the little pony .own I fell npoii ose I felt myself lomplimented by ssed on the road imself could not ems, being well acquainted with the road, had galloped the whole way at its full pace. I had taken only a moderate quantity of champagne, and nothing else ; I felt no cft'ect from it on leaving the mountain, or on arriving at its foot: the after eftect could have been caused only by the sudden transition from an atmospherical density, at the probable height of nearly 4000 feet, to the general level of the country. i- ':••■■••• 492 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF [Svv. CUA1>. ■iK: I .. ' ..<• . • CHAPTER v.— SUPPLEMENTARY. Section II. .*i. fc^-. '■*, I!! .7; UJ 1-1 r' 0'- i r r:i:;..'' ■ ■ '1 ♦ . . i. ♦ . : . I , >■ ' • HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE QUAllTERLY REVIEW. The Ong'm of the Qnarterh/ Review — Tlie Supporters of it — The Editor^ Mr. W. Oljford — Afi/ Introduction to him — Mf/ Share in the Proijress of the Review— Its Success. The origin and the history of that most useful, able, and generally well-conducted work The Quartirly Review^ is worthy of the man who first conceived it, of the patronage under which it was brought forward, and of the principles it advocated. Those principles, which were adopted from its commencement, are fouiukd on religion and morality, on loyalty to the throne, and patriotism to the country. To all of these and to their strict observance, under the able superintendence of William Giftbrd, nuist be ascribed its extraordinary success through a long series of years. Its author and its origin will at once be seen from the following letter, which undoubtedly gave rise to the work, and the sound good sense and ability which it displays are highly creditable to the writer : — "September 25, 1807. "To the Right Hon. George Canning. " Sir, — I venture to address you upon a subject that is not perhaps undeserving of one moment of yuur attention. Skot. II.] THE QUARTEHLY I.'EVIEVV. 493 teniber 25, 1807. "There is a work, entitled ' The Edinburgh Review,' written with such unquestionable talent that it has al- rcafly attained an extent of circulation not equalled by any similar publication. The principles of this work are, however, so radically bad that I have been led to consider the effect which such sentiments, so Lcncrallv m diffused, are likely to produce, and to think that some meant, equally popular ought to be adopted to counter- act their dangerous tendency. But the publication in question is conducted with so much ability and is sanctioned and circulated with such high and decisive authority by the party of whose opinions it is the organ, that there is little hope of producing against it any effectual opposition, unless it arise from you. Sir, and your friends. Should you. Sir, think the idea worthy of encouragement, I should with equal pride and wil- lingness engage my arduous exertions to promote its success; but as my object is nothing short of producing a work of the greatest talent and importance, I shall entertain it no longer if It be not so fortunate as to obtain the high patronage which I have thus, Sir, taken the liberty to solicit. " Permit me. Sir, to add, that the person who thus addresses you is no adventurer, but a man of some property, inheriting a business that has been established for nearly a century, i therefore trust that my a])pli- cation will be attributed to its proper motives, and that your goodness will at least pardon its intrusion. " I have the honour to be. Sir, " Your most humble and most obedient servant, (Signed) " John Mukuay." It does not appear that Mr. Canning gave any direct I.' •'' ■• ' 494 HISTORICAL SKETCH OP [Sop. Chap. .* 1. h nil'i: ; -if'l"' t . ■Ml .:". : ■ • .; ■ reply to this letter. Holding, as he then did, the high and responsible office of Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, it could not be expected that he would commit himself in a matter of this kind, more especially one meant to embrace political subjects. At the same time it is not likely that one of the prin- cipal directors and the most spirited writer of that clever and effective papei the ' Anti-Jacobin Journal,' instituted for a similar purpose to that proposed by My. Murray, would disregard so plausible an offer for the establishment of a permanent lleview, with the de- sign of counteracting the more than Jacobinical poison scattered most industriously through the pages of the ' Edinburgh lleview ;' for we shall see that Mr. Can- ning at once communicated with his friend William Gifford, with the view of securing him as the editor, provided the work should go forward. Gifford was well known to all the talented men of the day, by his translation of ' Juvenal,' his ' Baviad and Maniad,' his editions of the plays of Massinger, Ben Jonson, and Ford ; but more especially to Mr. Canning, by his having been thv editor of the celebrated 'Anti- Jacobin Journal,' to which he contributed largely and effectually by exposing to ridicule the mischievous doctrines of the disaffected Jacobins, in some of the most satirical and biting articles, and by creating indignation in those whose trade was to inculcate principles of profanity, immorality, and disloyalty to the crown and the country. The lies and inlstakes and 'misrepresentations (so headed) were in Gifford's department to expose and correct, and he did so effectually. Murray's letter was written at a most fortunate Sect. II.] TIIK QTJAItTEKLY HF.VIEW. 495 nioincnt. The ' Edinlmrgh Review,' by mistake it was sii])posed, contained a very severe fault-finding and unjust article by Mr. Jeft'rey on ' Marniion,' the most popular poem of his friend Sir AV alter Scott — so popu- l;ir, indeed, we were told, that 50,000 copies of it were sold. From this moment Scott determined, and no wonder he should, to break off all connexion with Con- stal)le's Review, and an article shortly after apj)eared (in the 20th number of that Review) under the title of ' Don Cevallos on the Usurpation of Spain,' known to have been written by Mr. (now Lord) Rrougham, the tone of which was so highly resented by Scott that he decided at once to go a step further, and to discontinue his name on the list of subscribers ; in the execution of which he is said to have written to Constable in these terms — that " The Edinburgh Review Jiad become such as to render it impossible tor me to continue a contri- hntor to it ; now it is such as I can no longer contiimc to receive or read it ;" and it is also said that the list of subscribers exhibits in an indignant dash of Constable's pen, opposite Scott's name, the word '■ sToi'T ! ! !"* Mr. Murray, when he wrote to Mr. Canning, could not have obtained any information of what had oc- curred ; but being desirous of establishing an interest in Edinburgh, in conjunction with the Ballantynes, he made up his mind to take a trip to Scotland. He had also a concern of some moment with Mr. Constable, who having agreed with Scott to give him one thousand guineas for his ' Marmion ' before it was written, the bookseller thought it prudent to divide the concern by most fortunate ♦ Lockhart's ' Life of Sir Walter Scott.' J k ■.', *;; ■i! . .■>. :'. i /■■ •• ■, ', • . ' ! 1 1 ' " i • ^;f' 4^:-ry--^ * .. 496 HISTORICAL SKETCH OE [Sup. CirAP. allowing Miller of Albemarle Street, and Murray of Fleet Street, each one quarter, which, from its enor- mous sale, proved a little fortune. These concerns, therefore, carried him to Scotland, where he t lok the opportunity of paying a visit to Sir Walter Scott, at his residence of Ashestiel, from whence, in a letter to George Ellis, Esq., of Claremont, Sir Walter says, " John Mun av, the bookseller of Fleet Street, who has more real knowledge of what concerns his business than any of his brethren, came to canvass a most iinportaiit plan," kc. ; and he tells him that the plan of instituting- a Review in London, conducted totally independent of bookselling influence, its literature well supjwrted, and its principles English and constitutional, would be the best cure to counteract the mischievous doctrines and forebodings which he thinks that for these two yeais past have done their utmost to hasten the accomplish- ment of their own prophecy, " of a speedy revolution in this country." Sir Walter Scott seemed to be much pleased witli Mr. Murray, and the offence given to the fbrnior by the ' Edinburgh Review,' no doubt, made the latter with his scheme a most acceptable visitor. " lie found," he says, " John Murray a young bookseller of capital and enterprise with more good sense and pro- priety of sentiment than fall to the share of most of the trade." And Mr. Lockhart (who in Scott's ' Life ' gives the best history of the origin of the ' Quarterly Review ') notices a striking proof of John Murray's sagacity. " He has told me that when he read the article on * Marmion ' and another on general politics in the same number of the ' Edinburgh Review,' he said to hiniseltj ' Walter Scott has fee lings both as a gentleman and a • V ■ \ . Sect. II.] THE QUARTERLY REVIEW. 497 Tory, which these people must now have wounded ; the alliance between him and the whole clique of the ' Edinburgh lieview,' its proprietor included, is shaken.' This sagacious inference and his share in the adventure of ' Marmion ' were ample motives for a journey to Scotland." Walter Scott tells Mr. Ellis, moreover, that he has been given to understand that Mr. William Gilford is willing to become the conductor of such a work, and that he had himself written to Giftbrd a very volu- minous letter on the subject at the Lord Advocate's desire. That letter contains a few observations on the details of the scheme, in which he says, " I only obey the commands of our distinguished friends without having the vanity to hope that I can point out anything which was not likely to have at once occurred to a per- son of Mr. Giftbrd's literary experience and eminence." He tells him the reputation of the ' Edinburgh Re- view ' is chiefly owing, first, to its being entirely un- influenced by the booksellers ; and, secondly, to the very handsome recompense which the editor not only liolds forth to his regular assistants, but actually forces upon those whose circumstances and rank make it a matter of total indifference. " I know," he says, " that the editor makes a point that every contributor shall receive this honun, saying that Czar Peter, when working in the trenches, received pay as a common soldier." The control, of course, nmst be vested in the editor for selecting, curtailing, and correcting the contri- butions. " If the books criticised ))e understood, though often written with stupid mediocrity, a lively paragraph or entertaining illustration may render them palatable —access to the best sources of political information, 2 K ! •) f i-r •/. , 498 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF [Sup. Chap. I ;» •filv/- ■ -J '. but the Review should not assume (at first) a political character — articles on science and miscellaneous litera- ture are desirable — a most delicate part, and the most essential, will be the management of the disgusting and deleterious doctrines Avith which the most popular of our Reviews disgraces its pages — the choice of subject an important one — going into a state of hostility with the ' Edii.burgh Reviesv,' but without any formal de- claration of war " — these and some others are the mere heads of what he recommends, and he concludes by naming a number of gentlemen who are likely to be contributors. lie sends a copy of this letter to Mr. Ellis, and tells him " it has been received in a most favourable manner by Mr. GifFord, who approves of its contents in all respects, and that Mr. Canning has looked it over and promised such aid as is therein re- quired." And he observes on the latter point, " As our start is of such immense consequence, don't you think Mr. Canning, though unquestionably our Atlas, miglit for a day find a Hercules on whom to devolve the burthen of the globe, while he writes us a Review ? " He did write for it, more than one article, as 1 had occasion to know. It would a})pear from what has been stated that ^Ir. Canning had already taken measures respecting this new Review, for in the letter of advice which Scott writes to Giftbrd he tells him it is in consequence of a communication between the Lord Advocate and I\Ir. Canning. There can be no doubt that Scott com- municated all he knew of these matters to JVInrray, who hastened home ; and, towards the end of 1 808, such progress had been made that the first number of the 'Quarterly Review' appeared in February, 1809, .tA Sec? . II.] THE QUARTERLY REVIEW. 499 ill which Mr. Scott had several articles, Mr. Canning contributed one, Messrs. Ellis, Frerc, Rose, Southey, and some others ; • nd it took so well that a second edition was speedily called for. At that time, little did I think that / should ever be considered as deserving a place in that Review, much less that I should become one of its most frequent contributors, perhaps the most, with the exception of a brother secretary. One morning, in the summer of the year 1809, Mr. Canning looked in upon mo at the Admiraltv, said he had often troubled me on business, but he was now about to ask a favour. " I believe you are acquainted M'ith my friend AVilliain liifford?" "By reputation," I said, "but not per- sonally." " Then," says he, " I must make you per- sonally accpiainted ; will you come and dine with mc at Gloucester Lodge any day, the sooner the more agreeable — say to-morrow, if you are disengaged ? " On accepting, he said, "I will send toCxilford to meet you; I know he will be too glad to come." " Now," he continued, *' it is right I should tell you that, in the new Revie>v of which two numbers have a|)])eared under the name of the (luarterly^ I am deeply, both publicly and personally, interested, and have taken a leading part with Mr. George Ellis, llookham Frere, Walter Scott, Rose, Southey, and some others ; our object in that work being to counter- act the virus scattered among His Majesty's subjects through the pages of the ' Edinburgh Review.' Now, I wish to eidist you into our corps, not as a mere ad- vising idler, but as an efficient labourer in our friend Gitford's vineyard." My reply was, "I am afraid you 2 K 2 ^ :Vl ^ I . • • . ! . ■ . "t., ■ . .11. ' lltu . V v ... '■■-*,■ " ■ ly |l : I ;* in iltii- •i!*- !■: ■ -A. ■■■■.•■:•, 'T I . ' * 500 HISTORICAL SKETCH OP [Sup. Chap, will be disappointed, for I have not the least notion how to set about writing a Review, and one from nie would only serve as a foil to the brilliant productions of those gentlemen you have mentioned ; besides, I should tremble in submitting my crude observations to the scrutinizing eye of such a critic as Mr. Gilford." " He will be overjoyed to have you, and will toll you that he who could write ' Travels in Southern Africa,' and the ' British Embassy to the Emperor of China,' can never find himself at a loss to review the work of any writer, provided he understands the subject." "There is one thing," he added, "I must mention to you. It is in*^onded, and, indeed, the editor has been instructed, that every writer in the Review, without any distinction, is to be paid for what- ever he produces ; that is a point about which no diffi- culty is to be made. I can assure you I myself have received pay for a short article I have already contri- buted, merely to set the example. Gifford will tell you the rest to-morrow." We met, and Gifford told me all that Mr. Canning had said, and a great deal more, and would not listen to any objection I offered on the score of novelty and my inexperience of reviewing ; he repeated Canning's observation that the writer of books can have no diffi- culty in reviewing books, which I, on the contrary, urged to be a non sequitur. He begged me to name any book to make choice of, which he would take care to send to me. Finding there was no getting rid of Gifford, I mentioned one I had just been reading, Pc Guignes' 'History of the Dutch Embassy to China,' which immediately followed ours. "Bravo! by all !•- *■• l\ Skct. II.] THE QUARTERLY REVIEW. 501 means, let me have Do Giiigucs and the Dutch Am- bassador to the Com-t of the Emperor of China : it is a subject of all others I should wish for; it is one at your fingers' ends, and one that few know anything about ; pray, let me have it for the forthcoming num- ber — three only have yet appeared, and I am gasping for something new ; pray, my good fellow, do indulge me." At this moment when we were just about (as a German lady would say) " to swear eternal friendship," dinner was announced ; and this afforded at least the opportunity of thinking about sealing the intended vow, which, after a, glass of wine, was supposed to be concluded. I believe our friendship, thus begun, was most sincere on both sides, and closed only with the death of Gifford, on the last day of December, 182G. I had a visit from him the next morning after the aforesaid meeting at Gloucester Lodge, and told him that ' Voyage a Peking ' was already laid down on the stocks, and should be ready for launching when required, lie was very thankful, and professed his obligations in warm terms. " But," he added, " the iliiarterh/ has a most voracious maw, and requires to have her food very regularly served up at fixed times ; would you, now, think me unreasonable if I were to suggest a second article for No. 5 ?" I laughed, and said, " It would be as well, perhaps, for both of us to wait the reception of the one just commenced." How- ever, he subsequently carried his point, and I not only gave him ' Voyages d'Entrccasteaux ' for No. 5, but Ta-ts'uuj-lealeey or 'The Laws of China;'* and I may * Traiislixted by Sir George Staunton. *!-U- ■ > ' 502 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF [Sui-, Chap- ivx: «:■■■.;■■ i,« •'if'' ! .v' ■ 'I ■ -.. . K* . ' add, once for all, that what with Gifford's eager and urgent demands, and the exercise becoming habitual and not disagreeable, I did not cease writing for the ' Quarterly lleview' till I had supplied no less, rather more, than 190 articles, as appears from the numbers ticked by me, as they came out, in the blank pages of vol. I. Nor was I spared applications from Mr. Murray. The following is a sample : — "Albemarle Street, .Tanimry 10, 1840. " My dear Sir, " I enclose a note just delivered to me by Mr. Lockhart in reply to yours of yesterday, which I thought best to send to him. " I assure you that the prospect of the continuation of your valuable contributions to the ' Quarterly Re- view' affords me the greatest satisfaction. I have always considered you as one of the pillars of the lie- view, and it is not the same thing in my mind when your hand is not in it. " Your last paper on Life Assurance was one of the most popular interest and practical value that has ever appeared, and I am now reading again with renewed gratification your paper on ' F'ree Track with China,' in which, from Lord Napier's obstinacy down to the present crisis, everything was completely seen and foretold. " Be so good as to point out any pamphlets on the opium trade or modern works on China that you would like to have sent to you. " I remain, &c., " John Murray." Mr. Lockhart writes — N* Fi.CT. II.] THE QUARTERLY REVIEW. €03 " Dear Murray, " I am sincerely gratified with the prospect of having Sir J. B. back into our corps, to which few, if any, have done better service ; and I agree with you that his last paper (on ' Life Assurance ') was one of his very best. "I wish you would, however, ascertain what iu general is the view he would wish to take of the Opium (juestion, for I have not in my recollection that this ])articular subject was ever handled by him in the ' Quarterly lleview.' " The following letter came to me just at this time, in corroboration of Lockhart's and Murray's opinion : — " National Endowment and Assnrance Society, Arthur Street AVest, London Bridge. "Sir, " In common with every respectable person in- terested, cither throngh pecuniary or moral considera- tions, in the prosperous popularity of life assurance, I feel obliged by your effective manner of exhibiting some features of that important subject in the new number of the ' Quarterly lleview.' " Allow me to request your acceptance of a Pocket Diary first issued about three months ago for 1839, and now forthcoming for 1840. "The last sentence of your note at page 300 de- scribes, with curious exactness, one of the provisions in the deed of this society. " I am glad to hear that a general law is in contem- plation to regulate all Life-offices. Althongh probably the youngest actuary in England, I am old enough even in official existence to see that the ' master's eye ' of Par- liament is required in some of the dark and dirty holes. .'504 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF [Sit. Chap. " It would afford inc a particular satisfaction to be acquainted with you, unless you are resolved to stand ' nominis umbra.' " Yours very respectfully, " A. A. Fry. "28tli October, 1839." •i;< . ! ft # . . ■ « 'ir-., . • t One evening, on returning home, I found a parcel from Mr. Murray, enclosing eleven thick octavo volumes, neatly bound in red llussia, and containing the whole of the articles I had supplied up to that time. The number as above stated must appear enormously large, and yet they were written off hand as an anuisement, many of them in the busiest periods of official duties ; but my evenings were generally spent at home with my family, and writing was to me a relaxation, after dinner, and a relief from the dry labours of the day. I may add that every article written for the Quarterly was sure to be followed by a long letter from Gifford, pointing out what would be a desirable subject for the next number, or asking me to name one. Mr. Murray also frequently suggested a new work for my consideration, and cer- tainly showed himself quite satisfied with my perform- ances. In all my critical labours I avoided touching upon politics as much as possible, almost, I might say, altogether. Mine were, for the most part, confined to the examination of voyages and travels ; discoveries and descriptions of countries and their inhabitants little or not at all known ; discoveries in natural his- tory and the arts ; in naval improvements and other professional subjects ; many as regards China, an in- exhaustible subject; Africa and America the same; the British fisheries ; ship-building and naval timber, dry-rot doctors, and quackery in general ; inventions, Sect. II.] THE QUAllTEllLY REVIEW. 505 history of; steam-engine, canals, and railroads. But the great mass of articles embrace the geography and history of the various nations of the globe, and the present ctpdition of their inhabitants; and I believe there arc very few that have not been treated of| scarcely a corner of the world unscrutiniscd. I had a letter from Murray to say that, in conse- quence of a certain article, the sale of the Review had very much increased. This article was published in the year 1817-18, the subject of which was an inquiry into the nature and extent of the Polar Sea, and the proofs of a communication through it between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Except the mere passage through Behring's Strait by the ships of Captain Cook, and a view of the Polar Sea from the shore of America by Hearne and Mackenzie, no en- trance whatever had been made or known from the waters of the Atlantic into the Polar Sea ; and when it was described and delineated as a large and nearly circular basin, it was treated in another Review as a joke. That article, however,* and the extraordinary facts therein stated, not only produced Murray's avowal of its successful results, but gave rise also to the recent Arctic voyages, by sea and land, that have added so largely to the geography and scientific dis- coveries, made in those regions by a class of ofiicers whose names will ever be remembered in the annals of the British Navy. I had the curiosity to ask Mr. Murray what was really the increase ot the number of copies sold in consequence, as he said, of the above-mentioned article ; and it appears, by the register which is kept, that the sale of each of the * Quarterly Review, Vol. XVIII., No. XXXV. '. » . » 1 306 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF [Sup. Chap. •i ■ K ■ * • . ■ '^.. ■" / - •■ ];•■■.■■■■.■ ■ » I * . ■ i. .» 1 !• • <■...• mimbers 33, 34, and 35 was 12,000; No. 36 (next after that containing the article in question) was 13,000, and this number was continued to No. 41, when it fell back to something less '^ ju it had been : in consequence, it was pretty well ascertained, of two or three new reviews having started up. An old note of Giftbrd to me has led to some additional in- formation : — " Ryde, 19th 1812. " I am glad to see yon so warm on the good that we mi</ht do, because I hope that you will one day impress youi sentiments on those, who ought to be ashamed of looking to you and me for them. You ask whether it is indolence or indifference ? I answer that it is botli, with the addition of the most scandalous ignorance. I was once in the confidence of the Government, and the impression will never be worn out of my n)ind, of the alarm which took possession of Pitt when he discovered that he had nearly lost the world, by his contempt of the press. A few weeks more, and no human means could have saved us. Then, to be sure, all was ex- pense and activity, and something was effected. His example and his terrors are lost upon us. Yet we have advantages which Mr. Pitt had not. He had the vehicles of information to create ; they are now at hand. He would have thought twenty thousand pounds a slight sacrifice to secure such a medium of conveying the most interesting political views, as the ' Quarterly ' offers to Government without any expense whatever. We are read by at least 50,000 people, of that class whose opinions it is most important to render favour- able, and whose judgments it is most expedient to set right. Our sale is at least GOOO, and I know of no . . .4. - ■> t ' \' Si;cT. II.] THE (iUAUTEIlLY HEVIKVV. 507 j)aniphlet that would sell 100 ; besides, pamphlets arc thrown aside, Ileviews are perniaueiit, and the variety of their contents attracts those, who never dream of opening a pamphlet. I could say much more on this head, but cui buno / You know it all, and whom be- sides could I convince ? Not one of the present Go- vernment. " In what you say of the secrecy which is affected to the friends of Government, while everything that can do mischief steals into the world through the channels of hostile papers, it is a folly that wants a name. If I looked only to respect and advantage from the Government, I would write against them. But basta ! " Ever, my kind friend, " Affectionately yours, "W. GiFFORD." But the grumbling against the Government, a malady so natural to Gifford, may pass — GOOO copies in the third year might satisfy any reasonable man; and the more so as, in five years after this, the nund)er had swollen to 12,000 copies, or doubled itself. The Go- vernment, too, was composed of his own friends — Lords Liverpool, Sidmouth, Londonderry, Bathnrst, and Melville — but, as Clifford said, the ' Quarterly ' has a voracious maw. Mr. Gifford as an author is well known, and as an accomplished scholar, a poet, and a wit, wielding some- times a severe and sarcastic pen, especially against writings of which he disapproved, and more particularly against those whose tendency was to irreligion, immo- rality, and disloyalty. Ills general knowledge of men 508 IIISTOUICAL SKETCH OF [Sui'. Chap. , ,. >. IK Ik ' .;.!' .V ■ « ■ , and books was extensive, his talents varied, his judg- ment correct, his })rincij)les steady and sound ; his stronpf national feelinj? and policy arc apj)arent through- out his management of the popular Keview for fifteen or sixteen years. He was a ])kasant companion, feeble as he was in health, and dreadfully afflicted with asthma, which kept him mostly at home, where I was one of his constant visitors ; yet, exhausted as he frequently ap- ])eared to be, he never passed an occasion of telling one of his droll stories, of which he had an inexhaustible supply, and told them in his own peculiar manner. Lord Byron was anxious for and obtained his friend- ship. Gifibrd had a high opinion of his talent an Ws power of versification, and to him the ])oet w<' *■ too happy to submit his productions ; many of which I had occasion to see afler they had been chastened and had received that gentle castigation, without which some of them would have gone forth into the world in a much more exceptionable shape than that in which we see them. My eldest son George, having translated some of the 'Odes ' of Anacreon, sent his production to Giflford , for his opinion or correction, doubting how far he should pursue the task ; regarding which Gifford, in a letter to me on a different subject, says — " Tell George not to be discouraged at the pencil- marks. Let him try and try again, and he will catch something of Anacreon's manner, which is that of picturesque alacrity; unless when the thoughts of dying come over him, and then he is simply pathetic. There must be no languid epithets ; but every word should be made, as it were, to tell. I never read Moore's trans- lation ; but he, I should think, offends on the side of •;• I'D. •' • ■ ' '. > » ».■■•• [Sui'. C!iiAP, Sect. II.] TIIK QUARTKRLY REVIEW. ■)()9 ried, his judn- id sound ; his ){irent througli- ;w for tit'tecn or mion, feeble as d with asthma, was one of his frequently ap- n of telling one 11 inexhaustible ir manner. ined his friend- s talent an 'lis ])()et w< '■ many of which been chastened , without which into the world than that in slated some of tion to Gifford g how far he h Gitford, in a at the pcncil- \ he will catch ich is that of Dughts of dying athetic. There word should be Moore's trans- on the side of m simplicity. Anacreon has no prettincsses ; Cowley has done some of his Odes well •, and old Ben has imitated him with taste and spirit." Mr. ritt, Lord Liverpool, Lord Wellesley, and Mr. Canning in particular, commenced a friendship with Gitlbrd, from the days of the Anti-Jacobin, which he conducted, and the last-mentioned gentleman con- timied a steady friend until his d ath. Sir Robert Peel, I know, had also a high oj)ini n of Giff'ord's talents, but I believe he never wrote a complete article in the 'Quarterly.' At a former period, however, in the year 1815, there appeared some dcver papers in the ' Courier,' which were reprinted in a small volume under the name of the 'Whig Guide;' exceedingly- droll, and full of point and humour, fit to be placed by the side of the 'llolliad.' The three known contri- butors were Palnierston, Peel, and Croker — then all young men. One of the articlej, said to be written by Mr. Peel, called ' The Trial of Brougham for calling Mr. Ponsonby an Old Woman,' is exceedingly humo- rous. Croker has fivo or six ; one ' On the Choice of a Leader,' full of biting sarcasm ; and a series of English melodies equally good. The following, called the Black Broom, is marked P. in ink ; but whether the production of Palnierston or Peel I know not: — " On a Motio7i made hy lirotigham relative to Excise Penalties. " The Broom came capering doon to tlie Iloose, Wi' a mossion aboot an Exciseman ; It sims the Exchequer can loosen a noose Witch the law too cruelly ties, nion ; So Looshingtoii cried, ' Ye've foond a mare's nest, We weesh ye much joy of the prize, mon ; Tes a vera new grievance, but ane o' the best. Whan the Trashury snubs an Exciseman.' " " "^^'i i wai i wffli i iMW iny i fii'mflM^ i*i. ^: •.'•';. 510 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF LSur, CnAi«. ;.:<(•! .« i'. N:> ■ !. When Sir Robert Peel had advanced to the highest offices of state, his mind was necessarily too much employed to indulge a taste for light and trifling litera- ture ; but no man lent himself more readily to en- courage and reward the labours of art and of science, or to afford speedy consolation and relief to the afflicted. Witness the prompt and unsolicited manner in which ho fled to the relief of the poor widow and family of the unhappy and distracted Haydon. In several instances I had occasion to experience the ready manner in which his humanity responded to cases of distress. I will mention one. It was represented to me that a couple of octogenarians, the Chevalier and Madame de la Garde — the former late Chamberlain to the King Stanislaus, and the latter the daughter of the Governor of Kamschatka, who afforded such relief to the squadron of Captain Cook that, without it, he could not have prosecuted his voyage — a fact authenticated by Cook's own narrative — that this aged couple were living in a state of deep distress, in a miserable lodging in the neighbourhood of Clare Market. To ascertain their situation I sent an intelligent gentleman from the Admiralty : he saw the lady, who was plainly but neatly dressed ; the apartment humble but clean ; and with evident reluctance she told her tale of distress. I laid the case before Lord Had- dington, and, moreover. Captain Cook's own story, and said, I felt sure if he would bring the tale of these poor old people's distress before Sir Robert Peel, he would afford them instant relief His Lordship did so : and, in return, received a note, of which the follow- ing is a copy : — ■ « ■ , ■» ■», •. LSur, Chap. to the highest ■ily too much trifling litera- :eadily to en- l of science, or ) the afflicted, ler in which lie family of the t^eral instances ly manner in 3f distress. I to me that a and Madame in to the King ' the Governor 3 the squadron )uld not have ted by Cook's vere living in lodging in the an intelligent the lady, who tment humble I she told her 'e Lord Had- own story, and tale of those Robert Peel, s Lordship did lich the folio w- Sect. II.] THE QUARTERLY REVIEW. 511 "Whitehall, March 18th. " My dear Haddington, " I will with pleasure make a grant from the Royal Bounty for the relief of Mon- sieur and Madame de la Garde. I have no power to grant a jf^^/wtow, but I will plaee one hundred pounds in the hands of Sir John Barrow, to be advanced by him, from time to time, during the life of the parties, in such mode as he may deem most conducive to their welfare. " Ever faithfully yours, " Robert Peel." " My Secretary will call on Barrow, and settle the details." I obtained an application to Baron Brunow, the Russian Ambassador, and received from him one hun- dred pounds on the account of his Imperial Majesty. I placed the money in the hands of Messrs. Coutts and Co. ; requesting it to be given out in such small f ums as M. de la Garde might require. Madame died within the twelvemonth, and the husbaud the following year, just about the time that the monej' was drawn out. Nor was Sir Robert Peel less mindful in granting the few pensions, of which a Minister has the disposal, to proper objects. From personal knowledge I am acquainted with three or four, granted purely on account of scientific pursuits conducted with humble means. I had frequently heard Gifford speak of the kindness he had received from Dr. Ireland, the Deau of West- minster ; and a bishopric becoming vacant when Mr. Canning was Prime Minister, he, the Minister, sent one day to say he wished to see me, which was to tell me 512 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF [Sup. Chap. i t ,» >, ■lA. n- '>! : ' , ■-.,' i' •• 4 1.1 - ! i ■ • .*<}■' ■ Li--'! .... ', 0.f :i ■' what had fallen to his gift ; and that he was desirous of offering it to Dr. Ireland, as the friend of Gifford ; but believing the Doctor to be rather an odd man, and not wishing to receive a refusal, he asked me if I would sound Gifford as to what he thought the result would be, if such an offer were made. On putting the question to Gifford, he said at once he was quite sure his friend was so well contented with Westminster, and the addition of the good living of Islip, in Oxfordshire, to which he was much attached, that he would at once say — and say honestly — Nolo ejnscopari. This opinion he ascer- tained to be correct. In the latter part of Gifford's life, and two or three years before his death, the University of Oxford made an offer to confer a degree on him ; but he declined it, observing that, "Twenty years ago it might have been gratifying, but now it would only be written on my coffin." He died on the 31st December, 1820 and was buried in Westminster Abbey : a posthumous honour obtained by his friend the Dean. The bulk o his property, acquired mostly by his literary labours ant by the savings of a small office held from Government he left to the family of the Cookesleys,* who had bee kind to him in his youth, when he most required acts of kindness. lie kept up his intimacy with them to the last. I have frequently met with the young ladie of the family at his house. I was requested by some friends of the deceased t( wait on Dr. Ireland, for the purpose of asking if h had any objec'on to give up the letters and paper which were understood to be in his possession, the * See his Autobiograpliicul Memoir prefixed to iiis translutio of Juvenal. [Sup. Chap. Sect. 11] THE QUARTERLY REVIEW. 513 he was desirous of id of GifFord ; but odd man, and not id me if I would he result would be, ing the question to sure his friend was and the addition brdshire, to which 1 at once say — and s opinion he ascer- ?, and two or three by of Oxford made ; but he declined ago it might have only be written on December, 1826, ibey : a posthumous )ean. The bulk of literary labours and , from Government, eys,* who had been most required acts macy with them to ith the young ladies 5 of the deceased to tose of asking if he letters and papers his possession, they ircfixcd to his translation considering it very desirable that a memoir of his life and writings should be drawn up for publication ; but the Dean refused positively at once ; alleging that, as his executor, he was desired, by his will, lo destroy all confidential letters and papers, especially those relating to the ' Quarterly Review :' and here, of course, the matter ended. From the very able and judicious manner in which Mr. Gifford had brought out the works of the old dramatists, Ben Jonson, Massinger, and Ford, all of which are prefaced with a variety of information and erudite remarks, it would have been a valuable acqui- sition to dramatic literature, if he could have been prevailed upon to bring out a new edition of Shak- speare's dramas, accompanied with one of those able disquisitions, which we find in those he has pub- lished. For instance : in his advertisement to the second edition of Massinger, he exposes the follies and the absurdities of the critics (the Edinburgh Reviewers among the rest) for venturing each their emendations of Massinger, and finding fault with Giffbrd's corrections, more especially of the metrical construction of many of the lines. Indeed, he told me when I was urgently pressing him to give to the world an edition of Shak- speare, that the sense of many of the obscure poetical passages in our great poet, which have been productive of such masses of critical acumen (together with critical nonsense), could only be rightly decided by a rigid observance of the regularity of the metre ; for if that was defective, we might be quite sure that some wrong word or arrangement of words had crept in, or been left out by the copyers ; for that Shakspeare was par- 2 L ,1 . ■ 1 ' ■ .■■•■.• m'n li. . ' I I ; ' 1 . ■'V •i'f.- *■ ♦ 514 HISTORICAL SKETCH OP [Sup. Chap. ticularly correct in the euphony of the verse as well as in the metre. But Gifford gave me to understand, and I was con- vinced, that it was too late for him to commence such an undertaking — that there was still room enough to sweep away those heaps of rubbish by which conceit or ignorance, or both, had disfigured some of the brightest effusions of this muse of genius and child of nature ; but that his state of health, with old age and disease, were ill adapted for his attempting to engage in such a task ; confessing, however, that he should have entered upon it in early life con amove. It is to be feared, that his place is not likely to be ever filled in the field of critical literature, or that we shall ever receive an edition of Shakspeare, Avorthy of the incomparable author. If, in conclusion, I shall here enumerate the several works I have brought before the public, and which may probably be classed as literary productions, I beg to say that I give them only as a statement of facts, and that I disclaim all pretensions to the literary character. Such as they are, they were undertaken chiefly as anmsement, to fill up vacant time ; and, in a majority of cases, the subjects have been suggested or desired. At the same time I may admit that they have been more productive of profit than I could have expected, or than they deserved. They may thus be summed up: — Articles in the ' Quarterly Review,' on almost every subject (excepting political), mostly asked for by Mr. Gifford . In tlie ' Encyclopaedia Britaiinica,' requested by Professor Napier, 10 or 12, say ...... 1 -^ No. Art. 1951 [Sup. Chap. ! verse as well as I, and I was con- I commence such room enough to which conceit or e of the brightest child of nature ; age and disease, engage in such a )uld have entered to be feared, that illed in the field 1 ever receive an the incomparable merate the several lie, and which may luctions, T beg to ment of facts, and I literary character, ertaken chiefly as and, in a majority ggestcd or desired, at they have been uld have expected, \f thus be summed No. Art. ost every subject Mr. Giffonl . ed by Trofessor 195 12 Sect. II.] THE QUARTERLY REVIEW. 515 No. Art. By the same, particularly desired by my friend Professor Napier, a ' Eeview of the Life of Admiral Lord St. Vin- cent,' in the ' Edinburgh Reviev\ ' . . . . The ' Life of Lord Macartney,' in 2 vols, quarto • Travels in South Africa,' 2 vols, quarto • Travels in China,' 1 vol. quarto • Voyage to Cochin-China,' 1 vol. quarto , The * Life of Lord Anson,' 1 vol. octavo The ' Life of Lord Howe,' 1 vol. octavo In the ' Family Library,' the ' Life of Peter the Great,' and the ' Mutiny of the Bounty ' ' Ciironological History of Arctic Voyages,' 1 vol. octavo ' Voyages of Discovery and Research within the Arctic Regions,' 1 vol. octavo ...... Vols. 2 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 Of these Martial : — I may, perhaps, venture to repeat from " Sunt bona, sunt qucedam mediocria, sunt mala plura." THE END. London : Printed by Wilmam Ci.owks nd Sons, Stamford Street.