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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la muthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ,1 '; q-^l AN t'llii.'.ii'''i;li'''i'' ■' ijil 1 -'j HI in ■*, ■ : , 4 AUTO-BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF SIR JOHN BARROW, BART., LATE OF THE ADMIRALTY; REFLECTIONS, OBSHRVATIONS, AND REMINISCENCES AT HOME AND ABROAD, FROM EARLY LIFE TO ADVANCED AGE. i " Ueec olim mcniiiiissc juvabit." LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1847. ^^ A* (J '. > .^ /;; /^ i\ t\ ci ^U '^ I^nduii : Printed by W. Clowes and Sonc, Stamford Street. w r 11 E F A C E. It may naturally be supposed that he who can sit down, in his eighty-third year, to write a volume of 500 pages, must have been urged on by some powerful motive to undertake such a task at so advanced a period of life ; when the faculties of mind and body may b(; expected, in a certain degree, to have become impaired. I had a double motive for setting about the task : — the first was to gratify what I knew to be the wish of my family ; the second, to gratify myself, by taking a wide range in recalling the remem- brances of long by-gone years ; quite certair that by 30 doing I should be able to realize the motto of my book, and say " haic olim meminisse juvabit." But I may also allege a third motive of gratification : that of expressing publicly the many acts of kindness avid considv^ration I have experienced from numerous friends, especially from those to whose patronage I am indebted for the good fortune that has attended me through life. To me, indeed, the labour of putting together the present volume has proved rather a delightful exercise, 12 iv PREFACE, by affording the opportunity of recalling to my memory the youthful companions of early days, and the friends of maturer age, together with the many agreeable associations that crowd into such recol- lections. If an excuse were wanting for this volume, it might be suggested that, as the lives of so many excellent characters have passed under my review^ it ^'s but reasonable that I should take a revieio cf my own, though less distinguished ; and I promise it shall be a true and a faithful one. Long as my life has been spared, it has passed away in a state of what I may call uninterrupted health — in the full enjoyment of activity of body, and sanity of mind — mens sana in corpore sano ; and, by the mercy of Providence, I have never had occasion to call in the aid of the doctor but once, and he was a Chinese, practising in the city of Tinj-hae, in the island of CIm-san. A great portion of the first forty years of my life was spent in rambling among the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland, or angling for trout in the mountain-streams ; in sea-voyages, or in pedestrian exercises in foreign countries : the next forty years mostly at Charing-Cross, in close confinement for the greater part of the day, and in such sedentary exercise of the mind, as is required of a Secretary of the Admiralty; whose talent may, perhaps, be esti- mated by some, who know little about it, to lie more in the hand than the head. I may lay claim, how- ever, to some small portion of mental exercise, in PREFACE. 5 to my days, and the many ich rccol- is volume, I so many review, it 'cw cf my ise it shall isscd away I health— :l sanity of* the mercy call in the a Chinese, island of y years of mountains igling for ges, or in next forty )nfinement sedentary jcretary of «, be esti- lie more aim, how- ercise, in addition to, and in the midst of, the routine drudgery of office, by the production of six quarto volumes, four octavos, three or four smaller ones, about a dozen arti- cles in the ' Encyclopaedia liritannica,' and close upon two hundred articles in the ' Quarterly lleview ;' which may, perhaps, be considered as counting for something in the way of literary labour. These are the kind of mental exercises, conjointly with personal exertions, that have tended to keep up a flow of health and of animal spirits much beyond the usual period of human existence ; and which have encouraged me, even at this late hour of the day, to make trial of my strength in the same beaten track I have trod over for so many years ; being not a little induced, as I have before hinted, by a wish to put on record the expression of a feeling of gratitude towards my benefactors; to state briefly the acts or o])inions of those under whom and with whom I have served; and moreover, though it may occasionally wear the appearance of vanity, to record the opinions also, ill their own words, that they may have enter- tained of me. No such feeling as vanity, however, can with justice be laid to my charge. I am but too con- scious that, in my literary labours — the sources of my anuiscment — there will be found a great defect both in point of style and correctness of language. The hasty composition of official letters and documents has, I am free to confess, been followed up by a too careless habit of skimming over even graver subjects currente VI PJ{KFACE. calamo. This is a weak excuse, but I liave no other to plead, with regard to the Ibllovviiig jKiges, in chiini- iug the indulgence of the t/entle reader. The volume contains — 1. Reminiscences of early life, entirely from memory. 2. Notices and observations on China and the Chinese, from Pekin to Canton. 3. Notices and observations on the Colonists, the Kaffirs, the Hottentots, and Rosjesmans of Southern Africa, from personal intercourse; and on tlic Natural History of 8. Africa. 4. Brief notices of thirteen dift'crent Administra- tions, Whig and Tory, of the Navy. 5. Retirement from public life, and employment of leisure time. 6. The origin and successful establishment of the ' Quarterly Review.' I Note. — The small portrait is taken from one of a larg-or size engraved by Messrs. Graves, from tiie original painted by IMr. Lucas ; and I beg to express my thanks to IMr. Lucas, and also to Messrs. Graves, for their readiness in atlbrding tl»e acconunodotion of placing it as a frontispiece to this volume. f li no otlicr , ill claiui- -fp ircly from n and the C N T E N T 8. lonists, the jesnians of iitorcourse ; Africa, ^(hninistra- niploynient inent of the (:iiaptj<:r i. BIXTION PAGE I. — Biitli and Pjirciitago, Education, and Employment chiefly at liome ...... II. — Residence and Employment in Liverpool J II. — A Voyage to the Greenland Wliale Fisliery 1 12 1(5 IV. — Death of my Master of Town Bank School, and a few Uemarks thereon — Sketch of the History of his ve- nerable Father, the Minister of Seathwaite Chapel . 2H ' a larg^er size iiited by Mr. IS, and also to ccoaimodutioii ( IIAPTEll II. EMBASSY TO CHINA. J.— Tiie Earl of Macartney, Ambassador ; Sir George Staunton, Bart., Secretary and IMiuister Plenipo- tentiary — Preparation and Departure — Receive an Appointment ....... 44 II. — Arrive at the Continent of China — Di-sembark at the Moutii of the River Pei-ho — Navigation of that River — Appearance of the Country and the Peoi)le 54 III. — Pei-ho to Tien-Sing, thence to Tongchoo, the Port of I'ckin — Aspect of the Country . . .66 Vllt CONTKNTS. KKOTION l'A<:i: IV. — From 'I'onj^-clioo, (lirouL-li IVkiii— From I'ckiii fo (Ic'liol ill 'I'iirtmy — I'ait of llic Kmhassy to the I'alaci' of Viu'ii-iiiiii-yiicii, ami part rciiiaiii in IIk- ("apilal— ()l)scrviilioiis on and i)c^(ii|tlions of all tlu'.st! I'lat't's— Nolict's of llio Coiiiifry, and of this cc'lt'biati'd Navigation ..... Iciiiurks on (i!) hs iiori:. ' of Ciood lltlllOIlt iis ) or Great .iiii(U-l)o- i:m 141 K' Country oniitry and . i7;i 'oast to tho ii(i Tiiiib(!r . 19;) quas— Re- . 1^01 acartney — Yoniig' — 5tat(! of the . 211 racTiuN I.- i*A(;i-: 2.'>() 2->I 27fi 291 lisli — Cape . 2lVo VAIAVTIM \V. T II K A 1) M 1 II A L T Y.* Introductory Note ...... Henry Visconiit Melville, First Lord. (Ills activity ill irstoriii}r llu; fleet ; his pojmlaiity ; and his licrseenlioij) ... . . . Cajit. .lames (JainbitM", I'iist Naval Lord. William JMarsden, First Secretary. Mr. IJaiiow a])i)oiiit<'d Second Secretary. Lord Harluun (Sir C. IMiddleton), First Lord. (His good fortune in beiiijj^ chief wlieii the victory of 'i'ralalgar took place) ..... Capt. James (jiainbier, First Naval Lord. "William Marsden, First Secretary. Kight Hon. Charles Crey. (Succeeded by tiie Uiglit Hon. Thomas Grenville) . . . . Three Naval Lords ; Markhani, Sir Charles Pole, and Sir II. Neale (jy., which first? Marsden, First Secretary. (I was not in this IJuard.) The Earl of JMnlgrave. (Two great expeditions — the Dardaiiells and the ScheMt) Adm. James Candjier, First Naval Lord. John AVilson Croker, Esq., First Secretary, to snccced Mr. "Wellesley Pole. The lliglit Hon. Charles Yorke. (A high and firm character, and a cajiacions mind) Sir Richard Lickcrton, First Naval Lord. Joiin Wilson Croker, First Secretary. • To attempt a description of the eveuts and transactions that occurred in the course of forty years, and whicli are recorded in the Admiralty, would require another voltnne even to On little more than to enumerate them, nrieily aa they are touched upon in tlie present volume, they occupy more than 2i)0 pages. In the (\iiiteiits, therefore, it was deemed siifiicient to name the parties in each of the thirteen Adniiuistrulions on whom the responsibility is supi)osed cUefly to rest. IV.— 2J)8 308 CONTENTS. SECTION FACE VI. — Robert Lord Viscount Melville. (Renewed tiie prac- tice of visitations to the dockyards ; war and peace witli America ; set forward the Arctic Voyages) 323 Adm. G. Johnstone liope, First Naval Lord. Joiin Wilson Croker, First Secretary. VII. — His Royal Iliglincss tlie Duke of Clarence, the Lord High Admiral. (His groat activity, and kind disposition ; gave great satisfaction to all con- nected with tlie Navy) ..... 336 Right IIoi.. Sir Geo. Cockburn, First Councillor. Rt. Hon. Jolia Wilson Croker, First Secretary. VIII. — Robert Viscount Melville — Second Administration. (First man-of-war steam vessel built by his Lord- ship's Board) ...... 386 Rt, Hon. Sir G. Cockburn, First Naval Lord. Rt. Hon. John Wilson Croker, First Secretary. IX. — Rt. Hon. Sir James Graham, Bart. (Undertook and completed a revision of tlie whole system of the Civil Service of the Naval Administration) . 404 Adm. Sir Thomas Hardy, First Naval Lord. Tlie Hon, George Elliot, First Seci'etary. X. — The Earl of Auckland. (Was twice First Lcrd, for very short periods, and little occurred for notice) 440 Sir William Farker, First Naval Lord. The Hon. George Elliot, First Secretary. XI. — Tlie Earl de Grey. (In office for a short period ; then Lord Auckland) ..... 444 Sir Charles Rowley, First Naval Lord. George Dawson, First Secretary. XII. — The Earl of Minto. (An active, intelligent, and in- genious First Lord) ..... 450 Adm. Sir Ciias. Adam, First Naval Lord. Charles Wood (now Rt. Hon. C. Wood), First Secretary. CONTENTS. rAOE )rac- aiid rctic . 323 Lord kind con- . 336 illor. y- •ation. Lord- . 386 I. »k and of the ) . 404 SECTION XIIL- xi PAGE -The Earl of Haddington. (An amiable and attentive First Lord, and not wanting in talent) . . 459 Rt. Hon. Sir George Cockburn, First Naval Lord. Sir Sidney Herbert, First Secretary ; and had the good fortune to obtain Sir George Cockburn for his First Naval Lord. CHAPTER V. SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. I.— Ret:-ment from Public Life — Various Compli- mentary Letters on the Occasion— Employment of Time after a Busy Life 469 II.— The Quarterly Ileview— The Origin and Design of the Quarterly Review— The Projectors and Early Con- tributors— Its extraordinary Success . . .492 rd, for notice) 440 period ; . 444 and in- 450 l^'l ), First -\i A E, AN AUTO-BIOfxRAPHICAL MEMOIR, SjC, 8fc. CHAPTER I. Section I. Education and Miscellaneous Emjdoymcnt, chiefly at Home. In the extreme northern part of North Lancashire is the market-town of Ulverstone, and not far from it the obscure village of Dragleybeck, in which a small ieottage gave me birth on the 19th June, 1764; being the only child of Roger and Mary Barrow. The said cottage had been in my mother's family nearly two hundred years, and had descended to her aunt, who lived in it to the age of eighty, and in it my mother died at the advanced age of ninety. To the cottage were attached three or four small ^elds, sufficient for the keep of as many cows, which Bipplied our family with milk and butter, besides reserving a portion of land for a crop of oats. There was also a paddock behind the cottage, called the hemp- Iftnd, expressive of the use to which it had at one time ^en applied, but now converted to the cultivation of \% II, I BIRTH. [Chap. 1. potatoes, peas, beans, and othei* culinary vegetables; which, with the grain, fell to the labour of my father, who, with several brothers, the sons of an extensive farmer, was brought up to that business in the neigh- bourhood of the Lakes ; and three or four of the sons held large farms under the Devonshire family — Caven- dish and Burlington. At the bottom of the hemp-land runs the beck or brook, a clear stream that gives the name to the village, and abounds with trout. Contiguous to the cottage was also a small flower- garden, which, in due time, fell to my share ; that is, while yet a young boy I had full charge of keeping up a supply of the ordinary flowers of the season. I did more ; I planted a number of trees of different kinds, which grew well, but, long after I left home, I under- stood that many of them had been destroyed by the turning of a road. One of them, however, it appears, has survived, which must be now from seventy to seventy-five years old *, and the mention of it kindles in my bosom a spark of gratitude, which an imputation of vanity even will not allow me to suppress. The follow- ing extract of a letter, received in 1844, from an aged female cousin, will tell the incident better than I can. My correspondent says, — " Mr. Gilpin" (who is an able and accomplished gentleman residing in Ulverstone) "called to say he was come to take a glass of wine with us, to drink your health in honour ; for that day it was your eightieth birthday, and he was sure there was not one gentleman to be found so clever and active as yourself; he was sure you were like one of fifty ; he told us that he and Mr. Braddyll were going to put a colour or flag into the rovnn-tree that you planted when a boy, which [Chap. 1. Skct. I.] ULVERSTONK. egetables ; my father, extensive the neigh- •f the sons f — Caven- e beck or ;he village, all flower- e; that is, keeping up on. I did •ent kinds, 3, I under- fed by the it appears, seventy to kindles in putation of ?he follow- 11 an aged lan I can. is an able Iverstone) ne with us, ; was your IS not one yourself; )ld us that mv or flag )oy, which is a fine tree full of red berries, and hoped we would go down to see it. We went down to see it ; and I assure you, sir, they had put a dashing flag brought from the Priory. I asked the girls at the cottage if one of them was married. She said — No ; Mr. Braddyll and Dr. Gilpin had put it up, it being Sir John Barrow's birth- day, and had treated them all, that they might drink your health. That evening Mr. Gilpin had a party of gentlemen to supper, in honour. There is a new wall round the cottage, but the tree was not moved from its place, and the colour hung gracefully from it. There was one lady was glad that she had lived to see it, — that was Mrs. Harrison ; she was Miss Betsy Briggs, sister to your old friend. The flag was brought by Mr. Sunderland from the capture of Acre. I am sure that all in Ulverstone ii.Uf^t feel the greatest respect for you, for the lane to the cottage was, during the day, the ge- neral walk to look at the flag, and to wish health and long life to Sir John Barrow." I was sensibly affected M'ith this mar^. of kindly feeling towards one who, from circumstances, had not visited his native place for more than fifty years. All my old schoolfelloMS had long ago departed this life. My little property has equally, long since, been disposed of. The younger and surviving branches of the family never knew me, and all that keeps up the recollection of the townspeople are a few charities, fwith which my name, and those of my family here, are associated ; and of which there is one in particular I have reason to be proud of —the establishment of a Sunday-school. Just after leaving school, in a conver- sation with a young friend, we lamented that there ^ was no such thing as a Sunday-school, for the benefit b2 '.1.1 '■^ ULVERSTONE. [Chap. I. of poor children, and I suggested that we should pro- pose one — but how? There was no newspaper — not even a printing-press. We, however, drew up a plan, and I undertook to stick it up on the market-cross, the night before market-day. We saw that it excited great attention ; it was talked of; a person offered himself to undertake it; and it succeeded so well, that to the Ulverstone Sunday-school I and some of my family are at this time annual subscribers. My native town of Ulverstone is now, and has long been, in a flourishing state. Situated on the shore of Morecambe Bay, with which it comnmnicates by a canal, the trade in copper aid iron ores, and various products of the neighbouring hills, is very considerable. Its proximity to the waters of Windermere, Coniston, and others of Cumberland and Westmoreland, has made it the key, or head-quarters, to those highly pic- turesque lakes. It can now boast of more than one public library, of several printing-presses, of literary and religious societies, and of a good grammar-school, besides others which are called National Schools. It has a daily mail-coach over the sands to Lancaster, and another three times a-week to Whitehaven. It is lighted with gas, has an abundant supply of good spring-water, and a clear stream has been conducted through the town. Had Mr. West, an intelligent Ca- tholic priest, who resided here, and wrote the history of Furness, been now alive, he might with justice have styled Ulverstone, as he did in that work, " the London of Furness." He might also have spoken with great truth of the salubrity of the air and the healthiness and longevity of its inhabitants : my good mother and her aunt v/ere striking examples of it. [Chap. I. iouid pro- iper — not ip a plan, •ket-cross, it excited >n offered well, that ne of my I has long J shore of latos by a nd various nsiderable. Coniston, eland, has highly pic- ! than one of literary iiar-school, chools. It caster, and en. It is y of good conducted iUigent Ca- the history ustice have the London with great thiness and ler and her I Sect. I.] EDUCATION. I cannot forego the opportunity now afforded me to say a word in favour of my native place, where my earliest, and I believe my happiest, days were passed ; and, having briefly stated what I have learned rfroni others, I proceed to the subject of my Memoir. The only scholastic education I received was at the fTown Bank grammar-school, under the Ilev. William Tyson Walker, curate of the parish church, and an ex- cellent classical scholar, educated at Trinity College, Dublin. Before this the Town Bank school had fallen into the hands of an old gouty gentleman, o^'the name of Ferdinand (usually called Fardy by the boys) Hodgson, whose wife kept a sort of stati&ner's and bookselle. s shop. Ilis knowledge of Latin extended little beyond the Syntaxl% As in prcesenti, and Propria quw maribu.% &c.; any further progress could only be had by a removal to the distance of sixteen miles, to the Free Grammar-school at liawkshcad, founded in L584. Fardy Hodgson was particularly kind to me; and, being pleased one day at the manner in which I had pfrformed my tssk, he took me by the hand into his shop, and spreading on the counter a great number of books for young people, he desired me to look at them and choose any one I pleased, as a present. I pitched upon a small History of the Bible, with wood-cuts, which so pleased the old man, that he foretold to my pa- rents that I should prove a treasure to them. Trifling tis this was, it produced its effect, and has on many iDccasions recurred to my memory. Poor Fardy having given up the school, some of the leading persons of Ulverstone, desirous of affording to their chihlren a better education than had hitherto been available, came to an agreement, in order to make the 6 TOWN BANK SCHOOL. [Chap. I. management of the Town Bank school more worth Mr. Walker's while, to place it on a better footing, and to increase the terms of the schooling. He most readily agreed to what was proposed ; and among the many boys, transferred to the care of Mr, Walker, I had the good fortune to be one — was entered when in my eighth year, continued under his instruction until my thirteenth, when I had advanced to the head of the school ; having read Homer, and Xenophon's Ana- bas's, Livy, Horace, Virgil, &c. Walker was no mean poet, and excelled in the recitation of verse or prose. He wrote a pleasing descriptive poem in praise of Ire- land, and of Trinity College in particular. I recollect it opened with — " Generous and brave, lerno, are thy sons." His great delight was to instruct the upper boys to repeat passages from Homer and Virgil, and also from the best English poets. I gained some smattering of reputation for my knowledge of Shakspeare, and for the manner in which I could repeat many of the finest passages in his tragedies, and which I retained to a late period of life — some of them even till now — for this tact I am solely indebted to the instruction and encou- ragement of Mr. Walker. Annexed to the Town Bank grammar-school was a separate room for those who were desirous of beiii^ instructed in arithmetic and mathematics, taught by an old gentleman, who, being a sort of perambulating pre- ceptor, used to pay his annual visit of about three months. From him I received instruction in those branches of mathematics, which are most easily attained under a master, such as algebra, fluxions, conic sec- tions — Euclid needed no master ; and I very soon 1 [Chap. 1. 3re worth r tooting, He most iniong the Walker, 1 d when in ition until e head of hon's Ana- is no mean e or prose, aise of Ire- I recollect er boys to d also from attering of re, and for f the finest ed to a latf w — for this and encou- ?,hool was a IS of beiii^ tuight by ail uUiting pre- about three on in those sily attained , conic sec- ; very soon Sect. I.] LEAVE SCHOOL. had an opportunity of acquiring the practical applica- tion of many of the theorems and problems to the common purposes of life. I may here mention one or two circumstances that occurred about the time and shortly after I left school, and which, trivial as they may appear, exerted a con- siderable influence on the future events of my life. Things of common occurrence are indeed f jquently the precursors of important consequences, though not so regarded at the time. Just as I was about to leave the school, a gentleman, who had the manage- ment of Colonel Braddyll's estates in Yorkshire, Mr. Cottam, well known in that county, called on the master of Town Bank to know if he could recommend two of the youths, best-informed in arithmetic and geo- metrical calculations, to assist him in taking an accu- rate and complete survey of the Colonel's very extensive estate of Conished Priory, near Ulverstone. He im- mediately named Zaccheus Walker, his nephew, and myself. We were accordingly sent for, and received explanations of v.hat would be required of us ; but as neither of us felt qualified to go alone, we consented on the understanding that all should be done entirely under his assistance and supervision. We remained at the Priory, as well as I now can recollect, about two months, in which time we com- pleted the survey, to the satisfaction, as I was after- wards informed, of Colonel Braddyll ; and, I may add, ior my own part, to my incalculable benefit derived jrom witnessing the practised methods of conducting a survey of the various descriptions of surface — for it contained all — level, hilly, woodland, and water ; and it was not the less useful to me, from the practical 'I f • 8 KMPI.OYMKNT AT CONISIIED PUIOKY. [Chap. 1. kiiovvlodge acquired of the tlieodolite, and of the several iiiathematieal instruments in the possession of Mr. Cottanj. In fact, during our sojourn at the Priory, I so fiir availed myself of tlie several a|)j)lications ot these in- struments, that, on arriving in Loiulon, some years afterwards, 1 extended my knowledge of them, so as to draw up and publish a small treatise, to explain the practical use of a case of mathematical instrunuMits, being my first introduction to the press, for which I obtained twenty })ouiuls; and was not a little delighted to send my first fruits to my mother. Another circumstance occurred, on leaving school, apparently of little importance, to which, notwith- staiuling, I nuist, to a certain extent, trace back my future fortunate progress in life, as will hereafter be shown. In the meantime, the simple fact will bo enough for me to notice. Five or six of the upper boys agreed to subscribe for the | arpose of purchasinf; a celestial globe, and also a map of the heavens, which were lodged in the mathenuitical apartment of Town Bank school, to be made use of jointly or se})arately, as should be decided on. Our cottage at Drag'ovbeck Avas distant a mile or more, yet such was my eagerness of acquiring a practical knowledge of the globe and tlu map, that 1 never omitted a star-light night, without attending to the favourite })ursuit of determining cer- tain constellations, and their j)rincipal tars, for one, two, or three hours, according as they continued above the horizon. It was a pleasure then, and a profit there- after. About this time, the son of a farmer on the Priory estate, a midshipman in the navy, made his aj)pearanco [Chap. I. |b;cT. I.] SELF-EDUCATION. 9 the several [)n of Mr. ry, I so iiir »t those iii- jome years m, so as to L'xphuii tlio iistruiiKMits, or whieh I e delighted iiifj; school, 1, notwith- e hack my ereafter bo act will Ito f the upper purchasing veus, which lit of Town parately, as )ra^ravbeck y eagerness ohe and tin ;ht, without mining ccr- rs, for one, luied above profit there- I the Priory ap})earancc at home, with the loss of an arm, sustained in action with the enemy ; a remarkably fine full-grown young man. I lis object now was the church ; but he was soon ipprized that, being thus mutilated, he was disqualified from officiatinf,^ in some of the duties of a parish j)ri''st, • $nd could not probably succeed in obtaining ordma- idon. He persisted, however, in pursuing his studies to qualify himself for the situation at least of private tutor. Having nmch communication with him, as a near neighbour, and he being, moreover, a most agreeable and intelligent young man, we became great friends, and goon discovered we could be of mutual assistance to each other. I found him an a})t scholar, and was of some use in brushing up his mathematics, and more so his classics, while he informed me of the mysteries of navigation, and of a man-of war. Even what 1 then teamed might be useful, should it be my lot to betake myself to a seafaring life, and so I considered it ; while my friend, some time afterwards, had interest enough to procure the patronage of the Hornby family of Win- wick, became tutor to the children, and finally, by his talents, succeeded, through the Derby interest, in ob- taining curate's orders; and in that capacity, I believe, continued to serve in Winwick Church till his death. I have no doubt that the present Admiral Hornby was a pupil of the Reverend Giles Chippindale. For the twelvemonth, or thereabouts, that I remained at home, the employment of my time was directed to- wards something that was useful or curious. Of the litter, I had fallen in with an account of Benjamin Fraidiiin's electrical kite ; and a kite being a very common object with schoolboys, and a string steeped in salt-water, with a glass handle to it, not difficult to be h^id, I speedily 1.1 10 A 81N0ULAU CllAKACTKU. [Chai'. I flew my kite, ixnd obtaiiiod abundance of sparks. An old woman, curious to see what 1 was about, it was too tempting an oj)portunity not t» give her a .shoc^', which so .Vightened lier, that she spread abroad a rej)()rt in tin vi'iage that 1 was no better than 1 shouhi be ; tor that I was drawing down lire from heaven. The alarm ran through the village, and my poor mother entreated me to lay aside my kite. My object was chiefly that of extending the sin.ill portion of mathematics, which the occasional master of Town Bank had been able to give me ; but with- out any one to apply to for assistance, when I louiid myself at a loss, which frequently happened. I wa? sometimes disposed to shut my book ; but, at this early period of life, I had an iidiorent and inveterate hatred of idleness; and that feeling has continued to haunt me until the advanced stage of human existence, at whidi I am now writing. In the midst of this dilemma I w.b informed that there lived, in the hills, an old farnioi, of the name of Gibson, who went among his neigh- bours by the aj)pellation of the irise-inan, on accoim; of his profound knowledge on almost every subject: that he had the re})utation of being a thorough matiu- matician ; that he made his own almanac, and couhi calculate eclipses — in short, like the village school- master — " Lands lie couM measure, terms and tides presage, And e'en tlie story ran that he could gage." I determined to see this rustic wonder, and for tliai purpose walked some eight or nine miles into the hilK country, and was so nuich gratifled with the inforniii- tion he gave me, on certain points that had floundeni: me ; and with such good will, urbanity, and patieiu [('IIAI'. *CT. i.] A SINGULAR CIIAUACTEK. u iparks. All t, it was too shocks wliicli 'eport in tin be ; tor that The alarm er en treated ig the small onal master e ; l)ut vvitli- len I fouiiil ined. 1 wa.^ at this early x-rate liatrcd 0(1 to haunt nee, at wlutli lemma I \va> old thriucr, g his nei^li- , ou aceouii! /ery subject; ■ough matlu' e, and couli; llage sehool- presage, 0." and for thai into the hilly the inforiiia- ad flounders; and patient' withal, did he hmnse me, (as Doetor Wollaston would have said,) that I repeated my visit three or four times ; and should have gone, at least once lore, be- fore quitting home, had I not felt somewhat ashamed to trouble hiui on that occasion, which was the follow- ing. I had puzzled myself for a couple of days and nights ifitli a problem in Simson's Conic Sections, which, without consulting any one, 1 found myself so much perplexed and confused, as to despair of ever being able to master : the failure preyed on my mind. On a future night I tried once more, and, alter a vain attem])t, fell into a disturbed sleep, in the course of which I became busily at work with my problem, or more correctly, perhaps, I dreamed to be so ; and the result was, a true and satisfactory solution. In the BM)rning, in full recollection of my dream, I took up my slate and pencil, and easily sketched out the solu- tion, On mentioning the circumstance, in after years, to Doctor Young, he told me it was by no means an uousual case, and that many instances are on record of intricate points being unravelled in drecms, or dis- turbed sleep. I have not yet finished with Mr. Gibson. From my acquaintance with him resulted an epoch in the pro- gress of my life, which will be noticed hereafter in its roper place. :t.i 12 EMPLOYMENT IN LIVERPOOL. [Chap. I. Section II. Bcsidence and Emplot/mcnt in Liverjmol. I NOW began seriously to reflect on my situation as far as regarded myself, but much more so with reference to my good parents, particularly as the views I took, regarding the future employment of my life, did not exactly correspond with theirs. My father, having been brought up among the Cumberland farmers of the mountains, had imbibed their notions respecting the clergy, whom they venerated so highly, as to persuade themselves that salvation M'as most likely to be secured to the family, by the introduction of one of the sons into the Church. No wonder, therefore, he should he anxious to educate me for the clerical })rofessioii. 1 had a serious objection to enter into holy orders ; I did not conceive that I was calculated for that sacred pro- fession ; besides, without a college education, there was no chance of my being jrdained, and I jn'cssed this point (in my father's attention. A friend, however, he said, had told him that, at a small expense, he could send me, as a servitor, or sizar, to one of the universities, My parents and myself were most regular attendants at church ; and though of a serious turn of mind, as I was by nature and disposition, I could not brins myself to think, that I ever should be reconciled to the clerical office, and therefore was desirous rather, discouraging as the prospect seemed, to take my chance a little longer, in the hope that something might turn u}), to alford me employment more suitable to my feelings. % [ClIAP. I. Sect. II.] EMPLOYMENT IN LIVERPOOL, 13 •pool. lation as far :h reference iews I took, life, did not having been lers of the ;pecting the to persuade ) be seeurid of the sons e should he ofessioii. 1 •ders; I did sacred pro- 1, there was [HTSsed this however, lie he could universities, [• attendants of mind, as not briiiu 'conciled to ■ous rather, I my chance might turn d)le to niv About this time, when I had just passed my four- teenth year, a lady from Liverpool called one day at the cottage, when I happened to be at home, and said, without ceremony, that she came from a friend of ours, and that her visit was to me ; that her husband's name was Walker, the proprietor of a considerable iron- foundry in Liverpool; and that in the course of her visit to the north, he had wished her to look out for an active and intelligent youth, to superintend the work- men aiid keep the accounts of the factory, under the guidance and instruction of one who, from age and infirmity, could not long continue his employment; that the youth would live in the family ; that they had one son of about ten years of age, who, being of a weakly habit, it was their object to give him instruction at home, at least for some time to come. " Now," sh j said, "from the character I have heard of you atUlver- stone, and from age and appearance (perhaps a little too young), I think you would answer our purpose ; and I may say, I am prepossessed in your favour; and if you think that such an appointment v/oiild suit you, I will write to my husband to mention you to him." This flattering conversation could not fail to capti- vate at once a youth of fourteen; and having no relish for an inactive life, seeing no prospect of immediate employment, and anxious to relieve my parents from the increasing expense of maintaining me at home, I shanked Mrs. Walker, and said I should most grate- fully accejjt an ofler so kindly made, should Mr. Walker be i f the same opinion with herself; The offer was made, on the lady's reaching home, and I lost no time 14 EMPLOYMENT IN LIVERPOOL. [Chap. I. Smct. in proceeding to Liverpool and joining my new friends and new abode in St. Thomas's Buildings. The establishment of the iron-foundry was not very extensive, but it supplied labour to a considerable num- ber and variety of workmen — foremen, moulders, car- penters, blacksmiths, and model-makers. There was also machinery for boring cannon, and other purposes. My duty was to overlook the workmen, to keep an his La- account of the labour performed and to enter it in the down. books, to pay the weekly wages, to make the entries of all the metals received and of the manufactured goods delivered. I signed articles binding myself to serve thiee years; my salary was just enough to keep me handsomely in clothing and a little pocket-money. Not long after my arrival, among the visitors of tlie maimfactory was an Italian, from Naples, of the name of Leonardi, whose business in Liverpool, he told me, was to ascend in a balloon, the first he believed that had been sent up in England — at least, with any poi- son in it ; and as his was intended to be inflated with inflammable gas, he wished to know if he could be su))- plied with iron filings to produce it. We were just now boring up old guns for the merchants, war being declared against France and Spain, and there were under plenty of borings to spare. This new species of flight conduc into the air took hold of my fancy ; the borings wen dispose supplied, and, with the permission (not readily granted) offered of Mr. AValker, I prevailed on Leonardi to let mc me, aiu accompany him, to which he made no objection, ]m> same f vided the balloon would rise with both, which was a best to point he couid not say : however, when the day of trial Duri came, the balloon was found wanting 5 it rose tardily tunity c dons ac with belo\ I Wall and J had i last V his bu son, a appea certaii the Ic and b( seriouj It I she, ance, whetl the ac and twelv 111 le [Chap. I. JiicT. II.l MRS. SIDDONS. 15 lew friends IS not very rable nuni- iilders, car- There was ;r purposes. ;o keep an ter it in the e entries of turcd goods )lf to serve to keep me noney. sitors of tho )f the nanif he told nic, elicved that ith any per- inflated with ould be su})- e were just ;s, war being there were nes of flight )orings wen ily granted) i to let nic )jection, pro- which was a 2 day of trial rose tardih' with Leonardi alone, and I vyas to be content to remain below. I passed two years very comfortably, Mr. and Mrs. Walker being excellent people, and very kind to me ; and I found the little son very tractable and docile, and had it in my power to be of some use to him. In the last year of my servitude, Mr. Walker expresF 1 to me his great satisfaction, and said, as his health was breaking down, and would disable him soon from looking after his business, he was thinking of transferring it to his son, and that, if I agreed to continue, my name would appear in the concern, and I should be entitled to a certain share in the profits To this I could not have the least objection. But, almost immediately after, and before the expiration of my time, he caught a very serious ilhicss, which carried him off in a few days. It now became a question with the widow, whether she, in conjunction with her son, and with my assist- ance, should undertake to carry on the business, or whether she should dispose of the whole concern. By the advice of her friends the latter plan was adopted, and probably she was well advised ; for a youth of twelve and of a sickly habit, and myself also a youth under seventeen, might not be deemed competent to conduct a concern of that magnitude. It was therefore disposed of to a Liverpool ironmonger, who immediately offered me terms to continue ; but being a stranger to me, and not likely that I should be considered in the same friendly light as with the Walkers, I thought it best to decline his offer. During my residence in Liverpool, I had an oppor- tunity of seeing, what very few have witnessed, Mrs. Sid- dons acting a romping character in a farce (Charlotte, Ifi GREENLAND. [Chap, I think, the name is), the 'Apprentice.' The com pany had just arrived under her husband, Mr. Siddoii; and the bill of fare had been distributed. The lady in tended for the character failed to make her appear ance, and Mrs. Siddons volunteered to take it, afh having performed her part in a tragedy. Having nevt yet heard of Mrs. Siddons, she being, I believe, k just come out, I paid no attention to her acting. lit reputation, however, was speedily estaliished ; an having mentioned the incident in London, it w? doubted, and thought to have been a mistake. As I h the pleasure of meeting Mrs. Siddons occasionally, niai; years after, I once took the liberty of asking her tl question, observing to her, that my account of it k been doubted, and that some othe • had been mistakt for her. She replied, that she was then very yoiii. and was often put into characters neither suitable ii agreeable to her. Skction III. A VoycKjo to the (xveenlmid Whale Fishery. I WAS now released from all engagements, and had consider very seriously what line of life I should able to undertake, and as would most likely p: cure for me the means of an independent subs once. I could no longer bear the idea of bei burdensome to my parents ; besides, a life S})ciit idleness and inactivity would be, to me, a lilt misery. While pondering over various })lans of ) cee( We tion fron Liv( fisiic Gre( once O Pottf Mrs. that, Icisui seas, ofwli maiH shonji raent, conso offer age we en We fortui h»v occun tUbi nilncr the ](■ and w tbese ' [Chap, i, SiKCT. III.J VOYAGE TO GREEXLAND. 17 The com Mr. Siddoii! The lady in her appear take it, aftt tiaving neve believe, l)t acting. lit Wished -, ai! iidoii, it \v< .ke. As I ha sionally, iiiai, sking her tl unt of it k been niistakt n very youi. iT suitable i, Fishery. its, and hail i I shonld St likely p: endent subs idea of bei a life spent me, a I iff 3 plans of p ceeding, there happened at thii, time to arrive from the West Indies a gentleman of the name of Potts, a rela- tion of Mrs. Walker, whose health had suffered much from the climate. He was in partnership with some Liverpool merchants concerned in the Greenland whale fishery, and having consulted Dr. Lyon, an eminent physician, he was recommended to take a voyage to Greenland, in one of the ships of the company; and at once decided to do so. One day, being at Mrs. Walker's, I met Captain Potts there, who, finding I was out of employment, and Mrs. Walker having spoken favourably of me, said that, if I had no objection to fill up a few months of my leisure time by taking a trip with him to the frozen seas, he would be glad to give me a bertli in the sliij), of whicli he was part-owner, as he meant to takj com- mand of her himself; that such as his tabic afforded I should share with him. Nothing, at the present mo- ment, could have occurred more op])ortune, or more consonant with my wishes, and I embraced his kind oflFer with eagerness. When all nuitters for the voy- age were in readiness, towards the end of March, we embarked in the good shij) 'Peggy,' and })ut to sea. We carried out a medical gentlenum, whose services fortunately were not re([uired, my friend the captain harv'ing speedily recovered, and n*^ siekness having occurred among the crew. Being naturally of an in(piisitive turn of mind, every- iiig new was sure to engage my attention. All the manonlvres of the ship, reefing, steering, and heaving the lead ; the measuring the ship's way, and the taking and working an observation for the latitude — of all these I knew something superficially from my friend c 18 GKEENLAND SEA. fClIAI'. Chippendale, but I now observed them with a i)ractical eye ; and Potts encouraged me in putting them to actual practice ; he appointed a smart young man to instruct me how to steer, to ass'st him in reefing a sail, tu take azinmths and altitudes, which I knew pretty wcl! how to work — in short, in all the tactical parts of navigation •, and the more I learnt of it the more 1 liked it. When we arrived at the south-east ice, which in tlu early part of the season is found to extend from tik east coast of Greenland to the west coast of Norway, the appearance of nature was new to me ; evcrv side of us being an unlimited plain of ice, on whicli were innumerable herds of seals strewed upon the sur- face, like so many sheep scattered over the dowib, But our object was the whale, and to get at him \\i must proceed to the northward, in which we succeedni by taking advantage of openings in the held of id between the detached hummocks, that were not nuiti larger, however, than those I had occasionally seen ii the river Mersey. In proceeding to the northward, we passed, at soiiu distance. Cherry Island, which, we found from an ui book that Potts had provided, was first discovered L Barentz in the year 1575, and named by him Bcii: Island, from his having killed near it one of tlio animals, not however a bear, but what is called a morsi or walrus ; but, some eight or nine years atlerwarir when one Beiinet saw this island, he changed its iiaii; to Cherie, after the worshipful Francis Cherie, who lia sent out the ship; and the conversion into Cherry, a we found it, was natural enough. The multitude < these morses that were afterwards found heaped togi He stec and dboii b<)w nxin( atid the the men I fClIAP. I. a practical 2111 to actual 1 to instruct ^ a sail, ti) pretty ^Vl.H jal parts ot the more 1 which in tin ntl from tlk ; of Norway, me •, every ice, on whicli upon the sui- r the dowib, et at him ^\t we succeedui 3 held of i(' ere not inuei )nally seen ii [issed, at soiii- from an (•!' discovered l*; by him B*.a; one of tlu^ ialled a mors, irs atlerward- nged its naiin herie, who ha nto Cherry, i^ J nudtitudc > 1 heaped tofit- • Sect. Ill] GREENLAND SEA. 19 ther on the shores and the surrounding ice of this island is ahnost incredible ; but anything may be be- lieved of the fecundity of Spitzbcrgen, and its conti- guous islands, in all varieties of the animal creation, after reading the interesting and instructive narrative Df Captain IJeechey. W^e kept so far from the shore, that we saw very few of the bears, foxes, or walruses, or of the herds of rein-deer that browse on the shores and low islands of Spit/bergen ; but since the discoveries that have been made and published by the late Northern voyagers, the little that could now be said on a whaling voyage, diade nearly seventy years ago, would afford neither novelty nor amusement, and therefore to the fishery I shall chiefly confine myself. We had not advanced fa'- along the coast of Spitz- bcrgen, before the look-out man called out with a sten- torian voice Falll f(iI/!—the notice of a whale being •within chace-distance. All was instantly noise and bustle, and apparent confusion throughout the sliij) — the boats were manned, and three or four persons only left on board. Eager to partake in the chacc, I asked my friend the captain to allow me to go and pull an oar. He said "By all means," and placed me under the boat- Steerer of one of the crafl. The whale kept blowing and moving on gradually, as if unconscious of wiiat was about to betide her, when the harpooner, standing in the bow of the first boat, darted his harpoon into tbe pro- ininent part of its back : immediately up went the broad and dangerous tail, and down the monster plunged into the deep, making the side of the boat smoke again by the ra])idity with which it drew out the line. In the Btteantiine the rest o+'the boats spread themselves, to be "^ c 2 20 GHEENLAND SEA. [CllAI-. I. ro«i(ly for its rising ; and before it eould again ])lun^c, a seeond boat succeeded in ])lacing a second liarjjoon in the large carcase. Away it again started, and tlu loose boats hooked on to the two fast ones, and the in- creased resistance caused its pace to slacken. Now was the time for the s])ikesoneer, with his loiiji lance, to pierce the vital ])arts, and he did it most effectually, as was proved by the (piantity of water mixed with blood that was thrown out of the blow-hol', when a general shout arose, "Her chimney is on lii-o." She still endeavoured to continue her run ; but, smait- ing with an accunuilation of wounds, and weakened, as it no doubt nuist have been, by the great loss of blood, together with the weight of the boats she had to drat;, its pace gradually s.ackened, and life, by the repetition of the lance, was, ere long, extinct. The next process is to fix the lines to the body, sn as to admit of its being towed to the ship — to be plactd there belly upwards longitudinally, close alongside, ami proj)erly secured, by being made fast to the bow ami stern and also to the midships. It is then marked out by longitudiiud and lateral lines, as directions to the cutters- up, a selection of the men, who stand upon the body ut the animal to cut out, with their large sharj) knives, tlit masses of blubber ; and these being sent upon deck aiv again cut into strips and put into casks through flu bung-holes, which are then closed up and not opeiud till the arrival of the shij) at her destined port. 'J'lit process on board, with plenty of saw-dust, is perfecth cleanly and void of all smell ; what it may be on th discharge of cargo, after a voyage home and exj)osiii'. to warm weather, I know not. While the process of cutting is going on, the luii! '''% [CllAl'. I. in ])lun}iO, X ]m\V\)0{)\\ (I, uikI tho uid tlie iu- i\\ Ills loii^ 1(1 it most \,' of wativ ! l)lo\V-ll()k', is on lire." but, smart- eakcncd, as ss of l)l()(t(l, i;ul to (li-au, e repetitiiiii ^KCT. iir.] GWEKNLAND SEA. 21 le body, so :o be placnd )ngsi(k', and le bow and irked out hy tbc cutters- the body (it ) knives, tin )()n deck ar. through till not opened port, 'i'lii is perfects ay be on tli nd ex])()sur' on, the iiiii'' titudc! of tlie Kull tri])c which creep upon and cover the earcase of the animal is perfectly astonishing, but Beechey tells us that the sea about Spitzbergen is as iTMch alive as the land. In fact, the (piantity of mal- monks, hurgomesters, strontjaggers, and kittiwakes that literally take possession of the animal is quite anuising; and such is their voracity f()r blubber that whole swarms of them sulfer themselves to be knocked on the head, by the crew, with sticks or any other weapon they can lay hold of The whale, when physically considered, is a most extraordinary animal; and it required all the ingenuity, the ])r;u'tical knowledge, and the indefatigable labour and thought, of that greatest naturalist of his day, Linna'us, to give it a pro})er place in the classification of his Si/.' but the siilt never again harpoons ws of the other, couple of jaw- ,nd set up ;i> "t close to our A a couple 0! monoceros n: -posts, but wi..- li'ntc-'< or horn- lies, but in tli e the case, i ic years after had ever nif one horn : li all born wil: t the other ^vll serve to siippl BKcr. I II. J UUKENLAND SEA. 23 the place of the former, should any accident hai)i)en to it, in which case it grew out. Wonderful as we know, in a nudtitude of instances, the }n*ovisions of Nature ire to sup])ly defects of accident, I appeared still to doubt, when kSir Everard said, " Mr. Clitf shall bring the iSkull of a narwhal to the Admiralty, and show you the jroimg horn in its socket :" he did so, and with a hammer And chisel, and after nearly two hours' labour, he chipped 6ft' the part of the skull that covered it, when tliere cer- tainly dhi appear a perfect end)ryo enclosed ; but ano- ther question occurred — the old horn had been broken off within a foot of the skull; Mhy did not the young one come out to take its place? The answer, of course, iWis ready : the old horn might have met with the acci- dent subsequent to the death of the animal, or, as more likely, at the time of its death. I had nothing further to say to my friend Home but to apologise for my in- ci'edulity. In the course of our progress to the northward, and ^en about half a degree to the southward of Ilakluyt's Headland, a strong breeze of wind, from the north, brought down such immense masses of floes or fields of ice, with hunnnocks approaching in size to icebergs in- tervening, that we were hastily compelled to make all i^ug, and prepare for being beset. We had six or seven sail of whalers in sight, each of them doing the ^tfme thing ; and in the course of a few hours we were surrounded, and so completely beset in the ice, that, in •^llatever direction we cast our eyes, the horizon termi- ndted in one unbroken surface of that element, with the exception, however, of the seven valleys and the dark crags of Si)itzbcrgen about Magdalena Bay, to ^ich we were opposite •, each of these valleys being 24 GJiKliNLANU SKA. [CllAl 8e< lillc'd with ail iiiiiiiciise glacier, known to the Dutch ;is tlie Seven Icebergs (schaii i/.^^jihcrtitc). It would seem, however, from the accounts of late voyagers, that four only of these icebergs or glaciers are now reinainiiifr, and that one of these, Captain Ueechey says, " I'roni its peculiar appearance and j)ositioii, seems as if a very small matter would detach it from the mountain, and precipitate it into the sea." In another })art of llu coast, it is said, the firing of a gun brought down from the glacier such a mass, as to form a floating iceberg: in the sea. But to return to the situation in which our ship was - beset and helpless. The weather fortunately was tran- quil, and on the fifth day a change of wind to the soutli, increasing to what may be called a brisk gale, by meet- ing the uortherly current, caused so much confusion ii! the ice, and so many heavy blows to the poor ' IVggy,' that apprehensions were at one time entertained shi would not escape without damage. The ice, how- ever, broke up into numerous masses, with channels ct open water between them, like so many streets in a town, the whole of which in the course of three days wci\ dred swept away to the northward and entirely disa})peari.(l. vesse Some of the crciw recognised a ship not far from ustn avoi( be the ' Betsy,' of Liverj)ool, and Ca))tain Potts wisJK i! and to go on board to ask how they had fared. Observin: I ma a gentleman in a naval undress unifbrin jacket, \\\v — to was introduced to us l)y the master as Captain Coffin, Oi of the Navy ; we were told that he had also taken tlit doeto voyage for the benefit of his health. I believe Adniira! first Sir Isaac Coffin, with whom I afterwards became wil of th acquainted, was at this time only a lieutenant. He i:i sever; formed us that, on the first breaking up of the ice, tli first fis lU( an ter act kin and see I spri the the ram him.' afloa offb over byth from Coffi LChai 4 $:cr. III.] (iliKKNLAND SKA. 2.'5 L> Dutch as vould sccni, rs, that tour ,' remainiu'A s, " iVoui its as it* a very fmntain, and pivrt of tlu t down tVoii iliiig iceborf ,r ship was - [^y was trail- to the soutli, ;ak-, by iiu'tt- fish wore always hungry; that lie had just been trying liis luck, and bad caught a hirge codfish 03 lbs. in weight, and be asked us to stay dinner and partake of it. Sir Isaac CofKn was one of those singular charac- ters, who are sometimes called oddities, because their actions nre not governed by the ordinary rules of man- kind. Wbenever he was in a sbip j)assing the tropics, and a fresh breeze blowing, it is said he was sure to be seen on the forecastle, on the anchor-stock, or on the spritsail-yard, with his lance ready poised to dash into the dolphins, when seen Hashing like lightning across the bow of the ship ; and he is said to have rarely missed his aim, except on one occasion when be threw himseltj spear in hand, on a passing ])orj)oise, and kept afloat astride of bis prize, like another Arion, till fetched I confusion in off by a boat. loor ' Peggy,' Towards the latter period of his life, Sir Isaac went tertained slu over to an island in the St. Lawrence, peopled nu)stly he ice, how- by the descendants of his family. In a letter I received th channels dt from hiin he said, " I have been among three humlred ■cts in atowii. CoflRns, and have built a school to bold about a hun- ee days wen dred of tlieir young ones ; and in returning, the snudl disappeared vessel liaving caught fire, I jumj)ed overboard and, to far from us t' avoid being bunit, was very nearly being drowned; I Totts wislid! and thus, having escaped these two perils, I supjwse Observiii. I may consider myself reserved for the remaining one u jacket, wli' — to be banged." ptain Cotliii. ©n our advance to the northward, our little Welsh also taken tli doetor became very fidgety about witnessing, for the elieve Adniiva first time, the sun just skimming the northern })art s became wil of the horizon about midnight, having, he said, lost euant. Uc i:i several niglits' sleep, by bis vigilance in watching tlic of the ice, tli first emersion of its whole body above the horizon. ■'%' 26 GKEENLANU SEA. |.(,'1IA1>. I. He frequently expressed his great delight that the sun, during our stay, was never to set, but permanently to si 3d his benign rays upon us. His messmates, how- ever, used to check his ardour, and endeavoured to convince him of his mistake, in fancying the glaring light of the sun, reflected from the ice and snow, agree- able, 't being not only unpleasant, but injurious to the eyes : that a few clouds and a fog, which would he of frequent occurrence, are a great relief, and that the permanence he so nuich wished for not only would in- terfere Mith his hours of rest, but that he would he puzzled to know when it was time to go to bed, and when to rise — nay, that occasions might happen, when a day or more would either be lost or gained upon the voyage. All this, however true, was incomprehensible to the Welshman, but he had proof of the latter part on re- turning home. The long labours of the people in chasing, capturing, towing to the ship, and cutting np the several whales caught, together with stowing the blubber away in the casks and hold, each fish employ- ing all hands forty-eight or fifty hours, made all of us indeed so little careful of kee])ing time, that we actually did lose a dav ; and it was not discovered until we en- tered the ISIersey when, on approaching St. Nicholas's Church, we heard the bells ringing and saw a mmi])ei' of people proceeding towards that place of M^orship. We concluded therefore that it was Sunday, whieli was confirmed by the pilot, whereas by our watches and the shi})\s log it was Saturday. It a])]icars thiit Captain Sir E. Parry, on one occasion, got into this perplexity, and to prevent its hap])ening on a ihturc voyage, he had the dial })lates of several watches marked [ClIAl-. I. Sect. III.) GUEENLAND SEA. 27 t the sun, nently to ites, ll0^v- ourcd to le glaring 3w, agrec- urious to would be 1 that the would in- would be bed, and pen, when [ upon the ible to the lart on !•(!- people in cutting up owing the ih eniploy- .' all of us ve actually ntil we en- Nicholas's a number t' worship, ay, Avhieli lY watcher pears thiit into this I a liiturc ics marked with twenty-four hours instead of twelve ; the first at the top of tl^f^ dial representing midnight, the twelfth at the bottom mid-day, by which such a mistake could not easily happen. For my own part I confess that my trip to the Spitz- bergen seas was a disappointment. We never once met with a floating iceberg. We saw masses of ice resembling ruined cathedrals, churches, palaces, pillars, bridges, beautiful stalactites, and all sorts of ima- ginary ruins — the fragments probably of icebergs; and were sufficiently near to observe the jagged and pointed mountains of Spitzbergen from the south point of the coast, to the 80th parallel of latitude, \\ith the numerous deep-indented valleys choked with snow 3pd glaciers — the parents of icebergs; and we came near enough to vicAV the several islands covered with verdure, on which whole herds of rein-deer are said to feed, as well as up the lower slopes of the mountains, <^othed with lichens and saxifrage. But my then lack of information has been amply supplied by the late polar voyages, and the whole of the Spitzbergen coast, both by sea and land, described as a most lively scene of animated nature. At this time, however, from all these gratifying objects we were cut off, which I nuich regretted, but neither did nor could complain. I knew that the fishery, as it is called, was the only object of the voyage; mine was mere curiosity. With an inherent dislike of inactivity, I had here 110 difficulty in finding the means of occupation either for mind or body, or both ; for the former, a regular journal was kept of the state of the wind and weather, of the barometer and thermometer, the variation of the <»mj)ass, with such other remarks as were deemed • t ' 'I :• 'Mr 28 THE MINISTER OF SEATHVVAITE. [CilAP. I, worthy of notice, which, however, were neither niaiiv nor important; an:l to fill np the long clay of perpetual sun I attempted, for the first, and, as far as my memory serves me, for the last time in my life, ca poem on tlio Arctic llegions, in blank verse, after the manner (if Thomson's 'AV inter.' Poetry, however, I soon dis- covered was not my forte, and the materials I had to work upon were not of the most inviting nature to the Muse. The feats and fates of whales and narwhals, morses, seals, bears, and foxes, malmouks, burgomesters, and stroll tjaggers, could aftbrd but rugged materials for blank verse. It was scribbled merely for aiiuisemciit and to kill time, but mv friend Totts carried it uti with him, and I know nothing of what became of it, Neither was I wanting in bodily exercise : I cou " hand, reef, and steer ;" to heave the lead was t much for me; but Captain Potts so far complimeiih'i! me as to say, that another voyage woidd make me a.« good a seaman as many of those in his ship ; and he put me down on the books for landsman's pay, and nothing that I could say, when I knew it, would induce him t' take itoif, his own name being at the head of the list. (1 (III Section IV Dcdth. of mji Idle j\fa!^h')' of Toicn Batik School, ai,- Sketch of the Jll.ston/ of his venerable Father, (I remarkahle Minister of the Cliapel of Seathicaite. On my return from Greenland I hastened to Ulvir- stone to see my parents, against wlu)se inclination 1 had gone thither. 1 was desirous also of visiting oiui [CilAI-. 1. kcT. IV.] THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. 29 either many of perpetual my memory poem on the ! maimer of I soon dis- ials I liad to nature to the ul narwhals, mrgomesters. materials iur • anuisemciit carried it oft )eeame of it, .se : I could lead was ton complimented make me ib )•, and he put , and nothin: nduce hiui ti I of the list. \i Father^ ll lathuriite. lied to Ulvii' inelinatioii 1 f visiting oiu more my early friends and old school-fellows, and among the first my greatly-respected master, Walker, of Town Bank, whose health I was sorry to find much impaired. Here I remaiiie school. As this aged patriarch, with his flowing loci; ^^V^^ white as snow, stood by the grave of his departed isn **9d. while the funeral service was reading, all eyes were di ^^v rected towards his venerable figure. At the conclusic ^^^"Oc of the ceremony, he stepped slowly to the edge of tl: "S'"^ grave, and there, with uplifted face and clasped hand scljoli the tears trickling down his aged cheeks, was ol^servt ^^"" *■ to be uttering a silent prayer towards heaven. T! ^ ^ impression made on my mind by this mournful seem- ^^ *' the loss of the son, whom I loved, and the grief ^^^^^^ • The / the father, whom I respected, more than sixty ycr ^ have not been able to obliterate. And even junv I feel impelled by a strong desin repeat the history of this good old clergyman, win whole life was spent in the solitude of the roniniit '^^^J streams and mountains of a secluded part of Westnuii land, instructing the rude and simple peasantry in tin duty to God and to man, and assisting them with I: advice and by his superior knowledge. I had ni;i: '^'' particulars of his life at the time, and since that sm ** given by himself, which curiosity, accompanied liy y ^ better feeling, had extracted from him. Sensible n- ^^^^ am of the fine example his whole life exhibits, ;i ^^^^ how many thousands there are of the same calling, i much better in their circumstances, considering t:^"*^^ difference in the times, than he was, I sliJill not hv>\\i: J ^"^ beconi it; h( each of his W fCiiAr. Sip. I v.] THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. 31 was prcstii! ige, who, ti memory of j farthest poiii' listant, whop l)le chapel > apel and lii ; flowing h(\ ; departed si eyes were d: fhe conchisir le edge of t' chisped hand . w.tS ohservt Ui give a hasty sketch of the life of the Ilevereiid and venerable Robert Walker. He was born and educated at a place called Un- 4ercrag, in Seathwaite, in 1/09, being the youngest of twelve children, the progeny of humble parents. S0athwaite Is one of the most beautiful vales in Fur- ness, situate close to the river Duddon, which skirts the counties of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumber- land. The small chapel of Seathwaite was used not only for the purposes of divine service, but also as a school for the children of -the valley. Here Robert Walker commenced his education, and became so apt a scholar that he was appointed schoolmaster to a ^^Imilar kind of establishment at Lowes- Water cha])el ; and here, , .ri by the assistance of a friend, he was able to extend heaven, il f , . ' ,. 1 , . „ his knowledge of the classics, by which, and by his lush lurntul scei\L- ^ t, i • , • , , , 1 a „„;,♦• cnaracter, lie was readily admitted into holv orders. 1(1 tlie grui . . . , . " " . , ' . , The liriiK/, if it may be so called, of Seathwaite had an sixty Ma ■' *' become vacant and was oU'ered to him, and he accepted f()n«'- desiiT ^*> '^^ ^^'^^^ previously othciated at that of Lowes-Water, .ryiiian, will- ^^^^ ^^'-'"^^ ^*^' ^^'^ ^^^^^^ \ii\m, namely, /we pounds '"^the' r()maii! ^"y^^^- li^iving obtained the living of Seathwaite, he t of Westnu.i "^*"'^* ^^ ' '^'^'^ by the frugality and good management 4-.,.r ;.. tl„ of his wife, was enabled to furnish his humble dwelling, asantry m m _, . , ^ ,,^ , . »• them with Ir ^"^^^ ^^^ remained at Lowes- Water, his narrow I had ma ^^^^^^^mstances, with an increasing family, and his fi,.,f l . -L • II • f. «.,.c;ki,. 1 ^aviBg attracted the attention of a stranger, he was '■ exhibits a^^^"*^^*^^ *^" 1^'^y ""^^ ^ ^■^^^'^■' ^^^^^ ^^^^^ describes the ame callin-l iT^^"^*' " ^ ^*^u»^l lii'» fitting at the head of a long ..oMni^in.v .square table, such as is commonly used in this country ;hall not hesitry ^^ *"^^^'*' ^'"^^ ^*^ people, dressed m a coarse blue '.VI .:,!^ .'32 THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. [ClIAI'. trock, trimmed with black horn buttons, a checked shirt, a leathern strap about his neck for a stock, a coarse apron, and a pair of great heavy woodcn-sokd shoes, plated with iron to preserve them ; with a child upon his knee, eating his breakfast ; his wife and the remainder of his flunily, which consists of nine chil- dren, were some of them employed in waiting on each other, the rest in teazing and spinning wool, at which he is a great proficient, and when made ready for sale he carries it on his bark, and on foot, seven or eight miles to market, even in the depth of winter," &c. The friend, to whom this account was written, de- termined to satisfy himself by taking a journey from Lancaster for the purpose of paying him a visit. lie found him to be all that was represented ; that his good moral conduct and meek behaviour had gained him ; an uncommon degree of respect among his neighbours; and he adds, "a man who, for his candour and meek- ness, his sober, chaste, and virtuous conversation, his soundness of principle and practice, is an ornament tn his profession, and an honour to the country he is in : and, bear with me if I say, the plainness of his dress, the sanctity of his manners, the simplicity of his doc- trine, and the vehemence of his expression, have a sort of resemblance to the pure practice of primitive Christianity." The writer of this (signed ]\Ir. C, of Lancaster, in the Annual Register) was so strongly impressed with the character and condition of Mr. Walker, wishing to have a particular account of tlio value of his curacy and the number and state of his family, he retpiested him to be kind enough to satisiy him. To whom Mr. Walker replies shortly after in writing : — [Chap. 1. Skct. IV.] THE MINISTER OF SEATIIVVAITE. 33 I checked stock, a dcn-sokd th a chikl e and tlie line chil- ^ on each at which y for sale 1 or eiglil &c. itten, (Ic- iiey from isit. He ; his good d hini ail ighbours ; d meck- ition, lli.^ anient tn he is ill ; lis th'css, ' liis doc- ve a sort )riniitivc r. C, of strongly of Mr. t of the of his o satisi'y after in " I should have returned an immediate answer, but the hand of Providence, then lying heavy upon an amiable pledge of conjugal endearment, hath since taken from me a promising girl, which the disconsolate mother too pensively laments the loss of; though we have yet eight living, all healthful, hopeful children, whose names and ages are as follows." (He here gives the names and ages of three boys and five girls.) " The annual income of my chapel at present, as near as I can compute it, may amount to about 171; 10/. of which is paid in cash, namely, 5/. from the bounty of Queen Anne, and 5/. from W. P., Esq., out of the animal rents, he being lord of the manor, and 3/. from the several inhabitants of Lowes, settled upon their tenements as a rent-charge : the house and gardens I value at 4/. yearly, and not worth more ; and I believe the surplice fees and voluntary contributions, one year with another, may be worth 3/. ; but, as the inhabitants are few in number, and the fees are very low, this last- mentioned sum consists chiefly in free-will offerings. " I am situated greatly to my satisfaction with regard to the conduct and behaviour of my auditory, who not only live in happy ignorance of the follies and vices of the age, but in nmtual peace and good-will with one another, and are seemingly (and I hope really too) sincere Christians, and sound members of the Esta- blished Church, not one dissenter of any denomination being amongst them all. I got to the value of 40/. for my wife's fortune, but had no real estate or cash of my own, being the youngest son of twelve children, born of obscure parents ; and though my income has been but small, and my family large, yet, by a providential blessing upon my own diligent endeavours, the kind- le t ■I ' . I 34 THE MINISTElt OF SEATIIWAITE. [CUAl'. I. iit'ss of'f'rien and a cheap country to live in, we have always had the necessaries of life. "R. W., Curate of S , " To Mr. C, of Lancaster." 17r)G. About this time the Bishop of Chester was thinking of joining the curacy of Ulpha to the contiguous one of Seathwaite, and oft'ered the nomination to Mr. Walker, who, in expressing his thanks to the Bishop, begged leave rather to decline than embrace it; " for the chapels of Seathwaite and Ulj)ha annexed together would bo apt to cause a general discontent among the inhabitants of both places, by either thinking themselves slighted or neglected in the duty, or attributing it to covetous- ness in me ; all which occasions of nmrmuring I would willingly avoid ; desiring, if it be possible, as nuich as in me lieth, to live peaceably with all men." In order to provide for his numerous family, his habits of industry have certainly no parallel. For eight hours each day, for five days in the week, and on the Saturday morning, Mr. Walker was to be found in his school, which he held within the chapel. Seated in the recess that contained the connnunion-table, and which supplied the place of a desk, and Mhile the chil- dren were repeating their lessons, he constantly em- ployed himself at his spinning-wheel ; his evenings were also mostly spent at the wheel, except when act- ing for his rustic neighbours as their scrivener, nuikiiiLi out deeds of conveyance, agreements, wills, or anythinii that required writing, in which he sometimes passed a great part of the night. With all this he found tinif to cultivate his little garden and two or three acres of ground, which he rented in addition to his gkhe. [Chap. I. , WO have 1750. s thinking ous one of r. Walker, p, begged the chapels would bo inhabitants es slighted covetous- ig I would IS much as aniily, liis For eight uid on the ; found in d\. Seated -table, and le the cliil- itantly em- s eveniii^^< t when aft- er, nuikiiiu or anytliinu nics passed found tinif three acre? ) his glebe. :-fSi:cT. IV.] THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. less than an acre. He had also chiefly to look after a couple of cows and a few sheep, for which he had the right of pasturage on the mountains. The sabbath was kept strictly holy ; the Sunday evenings being devoted to reading the Scriptures and family prayer; his only recreation was on a Saturday aft.Tnoon, when he in- dulged himself with a newspaper or a magazine. In these pastoral, culinary, and scholastical occupa- tions was the prolonged life oi' this iro)idi'?'f id man (as he was truly called) passed, sixty-six years as curate of Scathwaite Chapel, in primitive simplicity and sub- stantial happiness. A memorandum is said to exist, Mritten by one of his descendants, that he administered the Sacrament to a party which consisted of himself; his wife, to whom he had been married u])wards of igixty years ; one son and his wife ; four daughters, each with her husband ; whose united ages amounted to above ^14 years, and the distance they had come, from their ^respective abodes, measured upwards of 1000 English ianilcs. It is stated that the same circumstance had ioccurred four years before. f In the maintenance of all his virtues he received due iupport from the partner of his long life. An old ser- vant said to one of the munerous inquirers, " She was no less excellent than her husband; she was good to the poor V-she was good to everything." Mr. \Valkcr survived |>ut a short time this virtuous companion. AVhen she |ied, he ordered that her body should be borne to the |rave by three of her daughters and one grand-daughter, ind when the corpse was lifted from the threshold he kisisted upon lending his aid ; and feeling about, for %e was then almost blind, he laid hold of a napkin |xed to the coffin, and as a bearer entered the chapel I few steps from the lowly parsonage. I , I ^■\\ D 2 :?(! THE MINISTER OF SEATIIWAITE. [CiiAr, I. Mr. Wordsworth quotes from the 'Christian Re- ineuibranccr ' of October, 1819, a beautifully-written character of Mr. Walker, known, he says, to be the work of the Rev. Robt. Banifbrd, a great-grandson of Mr. Walker. In this it is recorded that " Until tliu sickness of his wife, a few months previous to her death, his health and spirits and faculties were unim- paired. But this misfortune gave him such a shock, tbat his constitution gradually decayed. His senses, except sight, still preserved their powers. He never preached with steadiness after his wife's death ; lii> voice faltered ; he always looked at the seat she had us 'd. He could not pass her tomb without tears. He becme when alone sad and melancholy, though still among his friends kind and good-humoured. He went to bed about twelve o'clock the night before his death. As his custom was, he went, tottering and leaning upon his daughter's arm, to examine the heavens and medi- tate a few moments in the open air. ' How clear the moon shines to-night!' He said these words, sighed, and lay down. At six next morning he was found a corpse. Many a tear, and many a heavy heart, and many a grateful blessing followed him to the grave." In Seathwaite churchyard, on a plain blue slab, is the following inscription : — " In memory of the Reverend Robert Walker, whu died the 2.5th of June, 1802, in the 93rd year of \m age, and 67th of his curacy at Seathwaite. "Also, or' Anne his wife, who died the 28th of January, in the 93rd year of her age." Scanty as was his income, yet such was his frugality and good management that he is said to have left be- hind him at his decease not less than 2000^. in money, and a large store of webs of woollen and linen clotli. ' "».« ICllAl'. 1, •istian Re- illy-writteii to be the jraudson of " Until the )us to hor verc uniiu- cli a sboek, His senses, lie never death; hi« ;at she bad tears. He though still . He went •e bis death. caning upon and modi- >\v clear the irds, sigbt'd, was found a heart, and e grave." (hie slab, i> Valker, whu year of hi: the 28tb ol his frugality lave left he- )/. in money. linen clotli. Skct. IV.] GIBSON, THE WISE MAN. 37 woven from thread of the family's own spinning. His eldest son, Zaccheus, was learning the trade of a tanner, but by bis abilities and good conduct he bad made himself friends, wbo procured bim a situation in the Solio manufactory of Bolton and Watt, where he succeeded to a sbare in one of the departments of that magnificent establishment, and where in the year 180.5, on paying a visit to my friend the present Mr. Watt, I unexpectedly and with great pleasure found my early schoolfellow, and colleague in the survey of Conisbcd Priory, Zaccheus Walker, son of the former of that ^ame, as a functionary of the Sobo, whom I had not keen since our co-operation in that survey. Having performed tbe last melancholy obsequies at the grave of my lamented master, and feeling no dis- position for engaging in parties of pleasure, I rode over to tbe residence of my old friend Gibson, the self-taught matbematician and almanac-maker, wbo expressed himself delighted to see me, and asked a thousand ques- Jions about navigating ships in an icy sea, and doubted ibot that, with my activity and tbe desire he had ob- ierved in me for information, I had almost become a iailor. I told him he was right; that I put a band to everything where I could be of use; among others, that by tbe kindness of my friend, I bad learned to take and work an observation for the latitude by meridional and ipso by double altitudes, but no one in the ship was ac- quainted with any method for obtaining the longitude wy observation. " But you ought," he said : " no young man should stop short in any pursuit he undertakes till he has conquered the whole ; for, without a profession, as you are, you cannot tell to what c'od use knowledge of any kind may be applied. Shut up in this retreat " .Mil 1 ••♦ ' I, •U 38 GIIJSON, THE WISE MAN. [CUAl'. I. the extent of iny kiiowle(l}i,e is of a very limited jukI uiiprodiu'tive kind, but it lias been of use to iny two sons in London, one of whom stands high in the Bank of England, and the other is manager of Calvert's (I think he said) brewery ; it has also been sometimes of use to my neighbours." He then told me, that as I already knew the use of logarithms, and of plane and spherical trigonometry, 1 had only to get Maskelyne's ' Nautical Almanac ' for the year, and his 'Requisite Tables,' in which were all tiic rules, and having obtained the height of the sun and moon, and the angular distance between them at a given hour, or the same data with regard to the moon and ;i fixed star ; and by one of the rules in the ' llequisiti Tai)les,' the longitude of the i)lace of observation is easily found. I made a note at the time with a resoli to Jindtlie luiu/ttude, on the first opportunity that ocv,....cil, The mention of my being without a profession re- called the many uneasy moments which that subjtcf had frequently occasioned nie. I felt I was nn isolated being in society, hanging loose upon it, and having do position in it — what profession could I look up to with any chance of success? The law? None but first-rati talents could hope to succeed in that. Thysic ? Too late to begin the study of it — and the market already overstocked — railroads had notyet sup])lied an accession of patients — and the only prospect was that of becoming' a country apothecary. And the church ? Without powerful friends little to be hoped for beyond a curacy, which barely affords food and clothing ; besides, I never could bring my mind to think myself suited for tin church, and not having had the benefit of an university education, it was by no means clear that a reverciui 4 I mrij m\ pass! Cold Hie [ClIAV. I. Sect. IV.] GIBSON, THE WISii MAN. 3U iiuitcd iiud to my two I the Bank ;^alvcrt's (I (inetiines of ' the use of )nometry, 1 iiac ' tor the reve all tht' he sun and n at a given moon ami ii ! ' llequisiti' tion is easily resoli /" lat 0Cw....«-d. rot'ession re- that snhjfd ;s an isolated tl having im k up to with but tirst-rate hysic V Toil irket already 1 an accession ; of beconiiii': 1 V Without ond a curacy, sides, I never mited for tlu' an university Lt a revcreiul father in God would he found liberal and charitable enongh to admit nie into holy orders. I had under my eye, in the town of Ulverstone, a decayed gentleman, of the age of thirty or thereabonts, who had tried and been rehised by two bisho])s, and was at last ordained io a poor curacy in the North, by the apologist for the Bible, Bishop Watson. Despondency, however, had never made an impres- sion on my mind ; I was in possession of habits of in- dustry, had a great desire to learn, an ardent curiosity, and some few talents to turn these to pra. tical utility. My disposition also was inclined towards opUmism ; a feeling that affords heartfelt consolation. Another point touched upon by my friend, the /visa man, was the success of his sons in London; ind this revived the notion, that had often run in my thoughts, of London being the great theatre for a young man to play his part in ; and how earnestly I had wished to meet with an opportunity of getting there, with a cer- tainty of any kind of employment, that a young man ^f decent education and good character could accept : |br without such certain employment, there could be but One issue, and that — utter ruin ! The good old farmer encouraged me to i)crsevere in my studies, and espe- cially in mathematics, which were a sure foundation for astronomy, and all the rest. I took leave, and Ranked him for all his kindness. a, I was not in much humour for study ; it was, however, ^ried by trimming up the little garden that, in early life, Iiud afforded me so much happiness. Days and weeks pdssed on and nothing turned up, except an offer from a Colonel Dodgson, to superintend property he had in tfllie West Lidies ; but I discovered it to be neither more •i» 1. ■'^ ■ '•Li 40 RESIDENCE -AT GllEENWlCll. LCiiAi-. I. nor less than to superintend the negroes. Of course I declined it. At length, however, a prospect was held out which, though not exactly what I could have wished, yet, if offered to me, I determined to accept. It is curious enough it came from the son of the w/,sy' man, in the Bank of England, who wrote to his father that Dr. James, who kept a large academy at Green- wich, had applied to him to know if he could recom- mend a north-country youth qualified to instriut from fifteen to twenty of the upper hoys in mathe- matics ; to have nothing to do with the rest of the school, and to live in the house ; and Mr. Gihsuii, junior, further added, " He will have to undergo an ex- amination by Dr. Maskelyne, the Astronomer lloy;i]." This rather staggered me, but old Gibson said he was quite sure it would amount to nothing but what I coidd very well answer. Optimism here came to my relief, and I said to myself, this will lead to something better. and, at all events, will take me into the atmosphere of London. I therefore gave the old gentleman a pro- visional consent : he was nmch pleased, said he would write to his son in London, tell him all about me, and hoped, that in ten days or a fortnight, he would be able himself to bring the reply to Dragleybeck. He did so, and also one from Dr. James, which wi> so perfectly satisfactory, and so urgent for my speedy appearance at Greenwich, that I lost no time in settini: out by the coach — railways had not then entered into the head of man — arrived in London — and called on Mr. Gibson at the Bank. He took me down to Green- wich, and there I M'as fixed, if all went right, for tlu next three years. The family appeared to be pleasaiif; consisted of the master, who was a clergyman, and liitl liki Oft tie stiu advi Atnl [Cum: I. Bkct. IV.] KKSIUENCE AT GREENWICH. 41 1 ^ 3f course I ct was held ave wished, ;cept. It is ic 7rise man, his father ly at Greeii- ould recoin- to instnut ^s in luathe'- the rest i)t Mr. Gihsoii, idergo ail ex- amcr Royal." said he ^vas what I coidd to my relief, icthiiig bettor, atmosphere cf clem a 11 a pro- said he would about me, and would be able k. lies, which wa> for my speedy time in settini: n entered i"tu -and called or lown to Green- t right, for tin to be pleasant; yman, and luv' Occasional duty to perform in the city of London ; his lady ; a son about my own age ; a)id three daughters, all younger. About eighteen fine young men were introduced as my pupils, three or four of whom were in or destined for the navy, one a son of Lord Anson, and another of Lord Leveson Gower ; which pleased Uie, as old Gibson had hinted every species of know^- ledge might be brought into play ; that which he had recommended was on the eve of being so. I had no examination to undergo by Dr. Maskelyne ; and saw him but once, accidentally;, but, some years after this, I became well acquainted with him at the Royal Society. 1 need not dwell on the rules of the school, or the system of education. Suffice it to say, I was very aauch my own master ; that I was greatly pleased with tiay pupils, and had no reason to think otherwise than that they were pleased with me ; and I can safely say that, in instructing them, I gained instruction myself; and by having such youngsters under my tuition, I gained another great advantage, which tended to ad- vance my progress in life. The scholars had six weeks holidays at Midsummer and at Chric<-nias; and few of those in my class whose parents lived in London or the neighbourhood that did not invite me to their parents' houses ; and thus I made acquaintance not only with them, but with their friends also ; so that at the termination of my engagement, I had a large acquaintance resident in London. Among these I was pressed by several to give iii- stniction to their children ; and, to such as were well advanced in years and knowledge I had no objection. Among others a lady pupil was recommended to me, .i* "..*■ ' \' 42 KESIDENCE IN LONDON. [ClIAP. 8bi who was most desirous of going through Euclid, and of having exphiined to her the utility to which a know- ledge of it was applicable ; that is, the practical apjilj. cation of the theorems or problems. This was Lady Beaumont, the partner of Sir George Beaumont, most agreeable persons, with whom I lived on terms of inti- macy during their lives ; her ladyship induced a female friend to go through the same process. In this way I passed between two and three years in London, goiiiL- down to Lancashire each year to visit my family. On my last visit, before it was my destiny to kaw England for a time, I found my parents happy ami well, but my mother's eyesight, which had long bee: failing', was now quite gone; the ])rinci})al uneasiii(,>< it occasioned her, was her inability to attend diviiit service, the church being a mile from the cottage, iiiv father and mother having for more than twenty ycjii; never missed the two Sunday services; but my fatlur read to her the morning lessons and the evening servio regularly every Sunday. The loss of sight never iiitii' fered with my mother's usual cheerfulness, and tii- young ladies of Ulverstone were her constant ami agreeable visiters. One day, on my return to town, I was honoured witlis visit from Sir George Staunton, a gentleman with wIkii: I had not yet had the good fortune to meet, and uli introduced himself by saying he was accpuiinted \\\it. ^jj several of my friends, and mentioned Doctor (iillic hers, who were accustomei an un hk av< «f] hot tha cou real assi HCqi and for] tive vivn thef was Sil ▼hcij I d«6 figiii day orsc aatfa wkic Cl some not meet at the VV^estmlnster Library. He said the olijvi hia of his visit was to know if I liad leisure time, and u;; foj willing to bestow a ])orlion of it to give instruction,! whetl the mathenuitics, lo an only son, between the age ol'ti hetrlT [Ciui'.l, Euclid, and of liich a know- L-actical appli- lis was Lady auniont, most terms of iuti- uccd a fcmalt In this way I l(Ondon, goiiv: family, stiny to Icav. ts liappy ami ad long bcci; pal iineasiiK>< attend divlin: lie cottage, my n twenty yciii« but my i'atlKt evening servict dit never intci' Iness, and tli- • constant m> lononred \vitlu, man with whoi: meet, and mIii [KH|uainted uit: )octor Gillies 1 ; accustomed t said the objvi e time, and ^v;' l; iiistructiou, i ;n the age ol'K #CT. IV.J UESIDENCE IN LONDON. 43 ■ 1 ' aaid eleven years, who had been studying the classics under a German gentleman, residing in the house ; that his son was a lively, animated boy, with more than average abilities, and great docility; "ard/' he added, "from the character I have heard of you, I think you both would be disposed to a mutual attachment." I tibanked him for the obliging offer, and the friendly and courteous manner in which it was introduced, and was ready and most willing to afford to his son my best assistance. " I suppose," he said, " you are practically acquainted with astronomy, and know the constellations and principal stars by name. I am a great advocate for practical knowledge ! " I answered in the affirma- tive ; and the constellations and astronomy brought vividly to my mind, my old friend Mr. Gibson, and the globe and the map of Town Bank school ; and I 'pis more than ever persuaded that all is for the best. iSir George gave me his address in Bentinck Street, lihere, by appointment, I was to call on the following day. I found Mr. Staunton to be all that his father had described, and far beyond what my imagination had figured him to be ; and I may here say that, from that d«y to this, in which I am writing, whether together separated by many thousand miles, we never ceased, as far as practicable, to exchange our mutual sentiments, ^ch seldom, if ever, failed to be in accordance ; and regard to the late Sir George Staunton, I should e most ungrateful person in the world, if I did nci every where, and on every occasion, avow that to bitti, and through him, I am indebted for all the good fcBPtune that has attended me through life, and that, wbiether present or absent, he ever had my interest at hetrt, as I shall have occasion to show. 44 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [Chap. H, SlacT. CHAPTER II. EARL OF MACARTNEY'S EMBASSY TO THE EMPEROR OF CHINA. Section I. Preparation and Dejmrture. tunit I thi with A CO Ueve so litl or .iIj be br( exhila Sir G Sir George Staunton said to me one day, " You havt e:|c]ai] no doubt heard rumours about an embassy to China >^^ I have just come from Lord Macartney, ,vho is nomi. « nated Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentian J-^ ^ to the Emperor of China, and I have consented t accompany him, in the capacity of Secretary of Em hassy and Minister Plenipotentiary ; and my su: George is to be of the party, which, I am not witlim: hope, will include you also ; and, under that idea, 1 have particularly requested his Lordship to place yoi: name on the list of his suite, which he is to give i to-morrow. Knowing, as I have reason to do, li: Lordship's desire to have about him such persons i; are likely to be useful, in preference to others, I liai been able to make a strong im])ression in your favoii: as, I told him, you had already made in mine ; li he complains of the East India Company being stiiii' as to the number and emoluments of his suite. I litij we shall succeed : for it is very nuich mv wish, as m as that of my son, that you should be one of the j)ar about to proceed to a country so little known, and a city so rarely visited, as Pekin; and, if I mista': not, you would be glad of so favourable an oppo: It. [CllAI'.II. T. I.] EMBASSY TO ChlNA. 45 rO THE lity, which is not likely soon, if ever, to recur." Jt; thanked Sir George most corc'ially, overpowered Hfith joy at so unexpected a prosp oct of visiting such jl, country and such a capital. I ^ould scarcely be- }^\e that any such good fortune could happen to one i| little known to the world ; but I never desponded Qt abandoned hope — and now that my name was to bf brought forward, under such auspices, I became so exhilarated and so overwhelmed with delight, that on =:;>:Mf George's departure I burst out into the following "Youhav. e|clamation — sy to China ,vho is noiiii' enipotentiav; consented t etary of Kir. and my sti; n not witlidii' that idoii/i to place yoi;: is to giver )u to do, li: lU'h persons;; others, I lia\ n your favoii; in mine; k y being stiiii" suite. 1 lu'l' V wish, as ui le of the par i t^- i ^ tvt i I the Propaganda Fide at Naiilev Mr. George Staunton j Mr. Crewe [ a *♦ i ' * *i i? i ,, TT T) > Attaches to the iMnbassy. Mr. Henry Baring . . •' Mr. AViuDEB ) -- .... (A German Gentleman, Tutor lu Mr. IluTTNER 1 Tvr t;. * ( Mr. Staunton. Two Meciianics. Guards and Servants. The character and talents of Sir George Staiint are too well established to require being dwelt up froin wWcli tivit}' At ni sion ■■.. M [Chai'. 1! fcx. I. EMBASSY TO CHINA. 47 t more agree led with iiioi; 3 might liav; 'ospect of en i its populoit Tsuade mysd jrtune. 'ed, in urjiiii. md in makiii, jr's suite, wli ^'agers. Tin.- issy and Plciil- Body Guard. Artillery. 1 Household, iher and Expe- brought ficiiii Fide at Naples. nibassy. lemaii, Tutor eorge Stauut' iing dwelt iifi l^re. As Secretary of Embassy and Plenipoten- ^ry, he carried out, moreover, a commission to sicceed as ambassador in the event of anything l»ppening to Lord Macartney, or of his early return l^me. Sir George had been of infinite service to his llprdship, when Governor of Madras ; and such was tl^ value he set on his abilities, that on the present cS^asion he made it a sine qua non of having Sir George Siaunton to accompany him in the above capacities, nld on the specified contingent condition. m3 Colonel Benson was a smart, correct, and active olBccr, v/ell known to Lord Macartney, and selected by him. Lieut. Parish, of the artillery, was a good officer and an excellent draughtsman in the engineer dipartinent, as his drawings of a section and view of tlie (jlreat Wall of China and other subjects will testify, tbough generally they were taken by stealth. On his return to England, he Mas appointed aide-de-camp to the INLiicpiis Cornwallis, as Governor-General of India, fell overboard on the passage out, and was drowned. sPoctor Gillan was a good scholar, a physician, and, ni|ri.'Over, a Scotch metaphysician ; he was selected as a fit })crson to be attached to an embassy like the pre- seat, and as a gentleman well calculated to bring home viUuable information on all subjects of science and phy- sios connected with China. But, in point of fact, his acquirements were rendered nearly unavailing, partly from indolence of habit occasioned l)y indifferent health, which rendered him incapable of nmch energy or ac- tivity : a single instance may serve to exemplify this. At my request Lord Macartney had obtained permis- sion from our attendant Mandarins, that I should be allowed to land, whenever I thought proper, from the I'tt I . i 48 EARL OF MACARTNEY'S [CllAl.,1, SXOT. I. barge which conveyed Dr. Gillaii and myself, to enalil me to walk to a reasonable distance along the baiil of the Grand Canal, a permission subsequently ej tended generally. One beautiful morning, in traversin, through an interesting part of the country, I endiii voured to prevail on my fellow-traveller to step d shore for once, and walk down to the next station. II had a book in his hand — Virgil. " My dear Barrow, said I le Doctor, " I have just got to that intcrcj ing passage where ^neas and Dido take refuge in ti cave from a violent storm ; how can I break off at m a stirring part ol' the story, and leave the Tyii comrades and Trojan youth seeking for cover from tl pelting storm, just tit the moment when ' .yieUimi Dido dux et Trojanus candaiii deveniunt ? ' " Tl Doctor, I believe, intended to be a little waggish. li supplied a few remarks, however, on the chemistry a: medicine of the Chinese, and some other desultu: subjects, for Sir George Staunton's volume. Doctor Scott had been a surgeon in the Navy, k read a great deal and talked much more. He had tl tilled himself for the present occasion, by studying tl false light, Isaac Vosshis, and by getting almost heart the production of jNIr. Pauw, a philosopher Berlin, who compiled a work of considerable abilir but in many respects not of nmch authority. lie u one of those writers, who derive pleasure in swi ming against the stream. Dr. Scott contributed i thing, that I am aware of, towards elucidating t; manners, customs, character, or general knowledge the Chinese. Achcson Maxwell, Esq., had been private set; tary to Lord Macartney in India, and being now tKe s{i difpoi regar( ii^lli aj^oii Audit iMr fiye 01 takcc. in ore to the Lord sionall a^r 1 house o^iinl wikcd C(Amtri ii«Cl retin- ir. conn I pBlntc'( itiras eilcuf in ton • %, from plaht, before grou}) sons (I [CiiAi..i: iAi\ to enali ig the baiil equently t\ , in traversiii, try, I enciea r to step (; , station. II ear Barrow, that intorc; refuge in tl iok off at siK e the Tyi'it jover froii! tl :11 ' ,^j/t'lunoi \unt?'" Tl waggish, li chemistry a; ther desultui lie. the Navv, k . He had H y studying tl ing ahnost philosopher ierable abilir ority. lie v asure in s^vi: contributed r elucidating t: 1 knowledgo private set; I being now EMUASSY TO CIIIXA. 49 i|| same situation, had no opportunity, had he been so dijfposed, of gaining information to any great extent rigarding the Chinese. Being a steady, sedulous, and Hilelligcnt gentleman, he received on our return an aipointment as Inspector of Public Accounts in the illldit-office. |]yir. Barrow, as comptroller of the hous(;hold, r/^-'-'-jd fijj^ or six weeks at the pnlacc of Yuen-min-Yuen, to t||^e charge of the valuable presents, and to see them put ili| order by the two mechanics, to be presented there |the Em])eror, on his return from Tartary, where Ird ^lacartney had his audience. Mr. Barrow occa- siibally rode from Yuen-min-Yueu to Pekin, to look r the pro])erty of the embassy, left in the large s(? ap})ropriated to the vVmbassador and suite in the ital ; and on the homeward journey to Canton he ked several hundred miles through the heart of the imntry, and publisbed a large quarto volume regard- China, of more than GOO pager., ten years after his UMi to England. )Ay. Ilickey, an indifferent portrait-painter, was a btryniaii of Lord Macartney, whose })ortrait he had ited ; and being now out of employ, his Lordship, ras said, took him out of compassion ; I believe he kuted nothing whatever while on the embassy, but in%onversation be was a shrewd, clever man. %/\\'. Alexander drew beautifidly and faithfully in wirtf r-i ulours, and omitted nothing that was Chinese, frotti the human face and figure, down to the humblest plant, and so true were his delineations, that nothing before or since could be compared with them. The groups of boats and vessels, with the multitude of per- son of both sexes, that were introduced into the j)ano- E ^'.>1 50 EARL OF MACARTNEYS [ClIAIV raina of IIoii^-Kong, were taken from drawings of ^I Alexander, whieh my son lent to Mr. Barker for tli ])nrpose. On liis return to England, the trusteos • the British Museum appointed Mr. Alexander to f!; superintendence of the department of prints and (irii- ings, in which unfortunately he did not long surviv His loss was severely felt and lamented. Doctor Dinwiddle was a Scotch philosopher, huti what school I know not; he was also called an exjia mentalist, and expected to instruct the Chinese in di tricity and in flying balloons, but it all ended in sniol; On our return, he requested to be discharged and se to Calcutta, where he meant to deliver lectures, a: Lord Macartney very kindly made him a present oft the mathematical and philosophical instruments tli were not left in China. The novelty took, in Calcut; and Dinwiddie is said to have made a little fbrtune. The two Chinese interpreters had been sought i and brought from the College JJe Propaganda Fid' Naples by Sir George Staunton, and one of them, L proved an useful and intelligent man. The other, K was a blunt, dull, and dogged person, of little use the embassy, and likely to be of still less in his m\m Happening one day to have in my hand a Latin cu; of the 'Common Book of Prayer,' I gave it open Ko, who, after looking at it a minute or two, threw down with violence on the floor, exclaiming " Eivlio ouj;lit t dod his fatlu: 2, and died i : was gcncnili aken in the > «:;ood fortuiU' ' dor. The liiT loos not exact, I helieve Lw ten to the lieiit: ! ahle and iiit id result of tl iiperor of Cliii vigour of will' I the liberality physical, etlm "m IkcT.I.l liMHASSY TO CHINA. ,7.1 or etlniic.-d character appeared I'roni any of them. When, incU'cd, it was understood that Sir (ieor^i; Btiumton liad undertaken it, any other work would llave heen a suju'rerogation. In fact, he alone, who lad cognizance of all that was or was intended to he transacted, and the rea.sons thereof) could liave done justice; to the suhject. - 1 thought so then and thiidv so still, yet ten years after ihe return of the emhassy to J^iUghmd 1 was induced to writ(! and to ])ul)lish a volume, to show the view which I had taken of the great empire of China and its very extraordinary overtlood of po])ulation, hy drawing such a iketch of the manners, the state of society, the language, literature, and tine arts, the sciences and civil institu- tions, the religious worship and opinions, the ]){)pulation, tnd the j)r()gress in agriculture, the civil and moral character of the ])eo])le, as my own observations enabled me to do ; and the ])resent Sir Cieorge Staun- ton had the kindness to allow me to look over the mass of notes and observations, which J had put into the llH^nds of his father when emjdoyed on his 'Narrative.' 1|ii^ith these and my recollections on the passage home ftoni the Cape, I endeavoured to settle, in my own mind, the point of rank which China nuiy he considered ^ have attained in the scale of civilised nations. i Three years afler the publication of this work, and irteen after the return of the end)assy, I had permis- |bn to publish the manuscript journal of the Earl of iacartncy, entitled ' A Journey of an Embassy from |e King of Great Britain to the Emperor of China in tile Years 1792, 1793, and 1794.' It was annexed as ayQ appendix to my account of 'The Public Life ' of the ,. I "'i EAUL OF MACARTNEY'S [ClIAl-. II, ]^]arl of Macartney. The journal is exceedingly inte- resting, and details circmnstantially all that occurred on his introduction to the emperor at his palace ofGeliol, in Tartary, with his observations and reflections on tlie country and people, and on the events that took place on that occasion. That which I am now about to relate is chiefly Mlijit happened i;o uie individually, or in which I was per- sonaMy concerned, taken either from loose notes writkii fifty years ago, or from a recollection of particul;ir occurrences chiefly in Pekin, at the palace of Yuoii- niin-Yuen, and on (mr journey by the Grand Canal through the heart of the empire ; the whole affording to myself the most interesting episode in the history of a prolonged life. Section II. The Emha.'^fti/ proceeds in II.M.S. 'Lion' and the E.lJ Shij) ' Ilindostan,'' and jM.mmj throu(]h the Yellov Sea, disembarks on the Continent of China, at tk Mouth of the River Pei-ho. The ships appointed to carry out the ambassador ami suite were the ' Lion,' of 64 guns, under the command of Captain Sir Erasmus Gower, and the 'Ilindostaii Indiaman of 1300 or 1400 tons, commanded by Cap- tain Mackintosh, an old and highly respected officer of the East India Company. Two more suitable ami efficient commanders could not have been selected t LCiiAf. II, cdinsly into- t occurrodoii ace of Gcliol, actions on tlie at took place s chiefly ^\llat h I was })C'r- ! notes written of particular ace of Yuen- Grand Canal le affording? to le history of a |tCT. ll.J EMBASSY TO CHINA. 55 inil the E.IX. (]h the Yello" China, at tk inbassador and the comnKinil i • Iliiidostan inded by Cap- specteil officer e suitable and been selected ard each of them was personally known to the Am- bassador. The ' Lion,' with her officers, stores, presents, and large quantities of baggage, was so completely filled, that part of the suite were obliged, and I may say Relighted, to go in the roomy 'Iliiidostan;' they con- listed of Colonel Benson, Dr. Scott, Dr. Dimviddie, lind myself; and most comfortable we were, being infi- l|itely better accommodated than were any of our col- kagucs in the 'Lion.' We left Portsmouth on the 26th of September, 1792; had a quick and pleasant passage to Madeira, where the ' Lion ' anchored in the Bay of Funchal, an open and dangerous roadstead — as Mackintosh, on a former occasion, had been taught bv fetal experience, his ship having been wrecked, and every soul having perished, himself and cook only exce})tcd, who being on shore escaped the melancholy fete of their companions. Pass we on to the island of Teneriffe, a ])leasant sail of four days from Madeira. The town of Santa Cruz, on the eastern side, aftbrds but little that is inviting. The town of Oratava, on the opposite side, is much the tame ; but the Peak is a majestic object, up which we ' ri|craiiibled as far as to the base of tlie cone, when a. vio- lent storm of thunder and lightning, with torrents of l^in, drove us down again. Our next halting-place |ras the miserable Porta Praya, in the island of St. [ago; and, passing thence to the Brazil coast, we )encd out and entered the magniticent bay or inlet of lio de Janeiro, unequalled, I believe, for its splendid #id variegated scenery, by any other of a similar kind in any part of the world. •I* ■'.>.' ' \' 5(5 EAUL OF MACAKTNEY'S [CUAP. U, We passed the curious island of Tristan da Cuiiha, M'itliout landing, and gave a good berth to the Cape of Good Hope, making the best of our way to the curious volcan.ic island of Amsterdam, whose large crater unites with the sea by a passage over a pebbly beach. From hence we reached and passed through tli( Strait of Sunda, and, by the Thousand Islands, came tn Batavia, and here enjoyed the gaieties and the luxurious living of the Dutch. But, that which was of more im- portance to us was, that while here the And^assaddr received a dispatch from Canton, announcing tli agreeable intelligence that his Imperial INIajesty oi China had issued a public edict, declaring his satisfactitii! at the approaching embassy, and directing that pilots should be stationed at every port on the coast of tin Yellow Sea to convey his Excellency and suite to Tiii:- sing, the nearest port to the capital, or to any otlur that should be found most convenient lor the Briti>!; ships. By this intelligence the embassy was relievii from the necessity of calling at Canton, which was nm: desirable on many accounts — among others, that of oli- viating a delay of eight or ten days. A dis})atch \ Sao COB Sei ( th^ riei thu Ian( hou islel aroi Mir T we J learr from but conj( addi eveni therefore sent to Canton to announce his Lordslii]i< j-jj^y ntention mosi of proceeding direct through the Strait to Chusan. sive e ii: tion It was deemed expedient, however, as it was littl nothing out of our way, to look into Turon Bay, Cochin-China, that being, as it were, a j)art ot| or in cIom Lord] connexion with, the Chinese empire, and the inhabitant- shawl being in all respects, exce])t less civilised, similar to tli f""*r Chinese. They, however, received us well, and wii! ea«teij great courtesy ; and here, having refreshed our sliii- upon direcll fi LCiiAi'. 11, an da Cunlia, the Cape of to the curious i crater uiiitc< each. through til- auds, came td the hixuvidib IS of more im- Auibassadur uouucing till Majesty i; his satistactidii iiig that pilots e coast of tlu suite to Tiei- [• to any otlui ibr the lh-iti>!; y was rehevi , vhich was i\m 2YS, that of oil- \. dispatch w;'- his Lordship- the Strait <: it was little o Turon Bay, i i-t oi', or ill cloN the inhabitant- ,, similar to tli well, and mIi! lied our sliii- II.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 57 companies, we proceeded to the entrance of the Yellow Sea.* Of the frequent storms an*! dangerous navigation of th6 Strait of Formosa we had an early proof; by expe- riencing a tremendous storm, accompanied by loud thunder and fierce lightning, in a pitch-dark night, no land on either side being visible for ten or twelve hours, and the brig, the ' Clarence,' in the midst of islets, rocks, and shoals, the sea high, and breaking all around ; so that we might almost have exclaimed with Miranda in the 'Tensest,' — " The sky, it secm'd, woviltl pour down stinking pitch, '^S ■^^"'^ '^'"^'' ^''^ ■'^*^"' "'"""'"'o ^^ ••''•^ welkin's ciieek, '^Hf Dasiied the fire out." The storm was, as the Chinese pilots told us, what we Europeans call a f>//>hoon, and which some of our learned antiquarians have fancied the Chinese derived from the Egyptian Typhoii, the genius of all evil ; but where or how they came by it, we are left to conjecture. The Chinese are the least, of all people, addicted to the borrowing of names, and too proud even to adopt a foreign word. In the present instance they are content with their own simple name, expres- sive of the fact — ta-fun<), a "great wind." • So mucli has been written concerning the most extensive and populous empire of Ciiina, and so much real and valuable informa- tion gained by the two British embassies of Lord IMaeartney and Lord Amiierst, to wliicli I Iiave already contributed my hiunljle shaif ; and so mucii new matter is constantly pouring in upon us sinot) the footing wo Iiave obtained, by conquest and negotiation, in ot among the nm.-t frequented conunercial stations along the eastern coast of the Yellow Sea, that little is left for me to dwell upon, but to confine my remarks chielly to mutters in which 1 was directly or indirectly personally concerned. • f ■'■A.' .• 58 EAKL OF MACAUT.NEY'S [ClIAI'. 1 Being on the poop of the ' Ilindostan ' with Capta; Mackintosh, I asked him if. in his several voyages t China, he had ever been in such a hurricane as w? then raging ? His reply was, " Yes, and ten tiiiii more severe. AVere it possible," he said, " to blow tt thousand trumpets and beat as many drums on t! forecastle of a ship like this in the heiglit of a ta-fu.u no sound would be heard of either by a j)erson on ti quarter-deck or on the poop of that ship." AVli any story of a marvellous kind was told, Mackiiitc: was wont to say, " Show me the book :" I asked lii jestingly, " Captain, would you put into a book \v!i you have just told me ? " Ilis answer was, " reiiia: not exactly in the same words." " No," said I, " I ;: sure you would make a great reduction in the muul- of youi" drums and trumpets." Having passed this strait, it was decided to dchv the brig ' Clarence '* for the port of Chusan ; and > George Staunton, Mr. Staunton, and myselfj with oin the Chinese interpreters embarked in her : the ' Lid: and 'Hiudostan' to M'ait outside of the archipelaiio islands, which are re})resented to consist of not K\v than three hundred, mostly small, aiiel many lit; better than naked rocks. Four passages lead into t! Skct. : as we nent H< point of be proac ship'^ eddy times taken was 1 woulc The] 120 f gandc usual) on th( overb verin racuh Th harbo ofthd them Ilk 11 n main harbour in the largest isLuid, of which we t' e westernmost, one shore being part of the cni, nent. We found the current to run with such wliirli: rapidity, so irregular, and the water so deep, tluit anchor would have been difficult, dangerous, and \( haps in a cahn impracticable. In fact, when aboiiM middle of the passage the wind did fail us, and ji: * Tliero liiui l)e('ii prepared two Ijrigs, the ' Claroiico ' iim' ' Jackal,' to atfeinl tlie ships throii^^h ihe Yellow Sea. ■•■ < [CiiAi'. i; ' with Capta; 3ral voyages t irricane as m; and ten tinn 1, " to blow t( drums on tl lit of a ta-fiu, a person on tl ship." AVli )ld, Mackiiiti' :" I asked lii; to a book w!; rorha: Shov. n.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. 59 !■ 1 • U was, ' said I, "lii in the nuiul- cided to dtia ■husan ; all(l^ ,'self', with OIK jer : the ' Liii e archipelagn >ist of not t'o« md nianv lit; ;es lead into i ' which we t^ rt of the coi, ith such will I'll so deep, that igerous, and ]i , when about t fail us, and j ' Clarence ' ami' iw Sea. as we were close to a rocky promontory of the conti- nent called Kee-to Point. Here the current swept the ' Clarence ' towards the point with such rapidity, that we expected nothing short of being momentarily dashed to pieces ; but, on ap- proaching this perpendicular precipice within twice the ship's length, to our surprise and not less alarm, the eddy swept her round with great velocity three several times. An old Chinese fi?hernian, whom we had taken as pilot, gave us the consolation, that there was no danger, and that her distance from the rock would be increased after every whirl ; and so it was. The lead was thrown, but no bottom at the depth of 120 fathoms. The Chinese missionary of the Propa- ganda, whom we had taken to interpret, and who was usually less composed than his countryman, had indeed on lihe present occasion an escape from being thrown overboard by the boom of the mainsail, and in reco- vering himself exclaimed, " Sanctisshna Maria, eM mi- raculum ! " IThis is the only passage, on the south side, into the harbour of Chusan. On entering we were met by one of the large Chinese junks — as we are pleased to call them (from their proper name tchuau). An officer came on board to annoiuice that his vessel would pre- cede us, and point out the proper anchorage. He and two or three other officers were extremely civil, and preientcd us with a basket of fruit. The tchuaii led the way; and, clumsy as she appeared, with her stiif unbending bamboo sails, to the surprise of our seamen, they observed her sail quite as well as the smart-looking 'Clarence.' We anchored about the centre of a very spacious harbour, surrounded by the coast of the main It* 60 EARL OF MACAKTNEY'S [CiiAr.: island and others contiguous to it, so as to give to it circular shape, and the semblance of being conipkt. land-locked — as it aj)})cars from a sketch I took of from our centra] anchorage. Mandarins forthwith visited us ; and it was arraiii: that we should M'ait on the tsung-ping, or militavvi. vernor of Ting-hai, the chief city of Chusan, early ik morning. He was abundantly civil, received us in: hall of audience, and promised to have pilots ready; us ; presented us with tea, fruit, and cakes, and tall of plays, feasts, and entertainments ; and was rat! surprised at the haste we nuuiifested. The multitude of ships, several hundreds of diff ri kinds, that were lying at anchor before the scaji town, gave evidence of an extensive commercial inr course with Chusan; and yet, to our astonishment,: governor told us that the pilots for our ships could (c take us to the ports along the coast, as far as tbe i, province. This we said would not answer our })uij)i' and, moreover, that the Kmperor, in his public iiotih tion, had ordered pilots to be in readiness at Cluisah conduct the shij)s of the Ambassador to Tieiivi This produced a general nuister, from which was tn singled out every man who had ever been at Tieii->; Two only Avere found to answer the description, they had lefl the sea for many years, were comforta settled in trade, and begged on their knees they iiiL be excused. In vain, however, they pleaded the r; of their families, the Emperor's orders must be oIkv. the governor was inexorable, and they were orderoi embark in the course of an hour. Such an act ot'^ lence and injustice, ))alnful as it was to witness, cu hardly be re])roved, with consistency, by some of- Sect. nav£ take T the < by a lead] men the was facto static the( Tl desii to o poris islan< will have the of tei weall the their dispc takif] child if th for throi and tent had tp [fit, ^fi [Chak; LS to give to it )eiiig complete ;ch I took of it was arraiii; , or military s: lusan, early ik eceivecl us in ■ ! pilots ready ; akes, and tall and was rat! drcds of ditf'.'ii I tore the seaji •omniercial m istonishmeiit, : ■ ships could as far as the i, 5wer our ))urpi" is public notit' ness at Chusaii lor to Tieuvi 1 which was tn jeen at Tiell-^; ; description, were comforta knees they im. pleaded the i s must be obey y were ordorci. ich an act ot'^ s to witness, n ^, by some of ' Sect, n.] EMBASSY TO CHINA. Gl '• I ! nafal officers, who might in the course of service have taken part in similar scenes at home. The city of Ting-hai is from one to two miles from the coast before which the shipping lie. It is enclosed by a lofty wall of masonry, in which are several gates leading into streets of tolerable width ; the rest are mere alleys. About the year 1700 we had a factory in the suburb, close to the shore of the harbour, which was walled round, and from which the wives of the factors were excluded. We also obtained a commercial station at Ning-po ; but, at the end of some fifty years, the Chinese got rid of us from both. There is just now, however, in England, a craving desire to exchange Ilong Kong for Chusan — not merely to occupy Ting-hai or the suburb, or both, as em- poria for conunercial concerns, but to possess the whole island. It is to be hoped, however, that the Chinese wiU resolutely resist any such demand : indeed, they have done so, and succeeded. To a less jealous people, the possession of a spacious harbour and a large extent of territory, which from its position would overawe the wealthiest and most flourishing commercial cities in the empire — Ning-po, Ilang-clioo, and Foo-choo, with their numerous ports and suburbs — to say nothing of dirtiossessing or corrupting some 120,000 families, by taiing their lands, or converting themselves or their children into what they deem us — barbarians: and, if ttiese objections were overcome, we should create for yourselves an interminable hatred and jealousy thl^ghout the whole of this great empire. If wisdom and prudence govern our councils, we shall remain con- tend' with what conquest has given us. If, indeed, Ave had asked for Lan-tao or Liu-ting, instead of Ilong- •1,M U. ' ■'..*.' G2 EARL OF MACAUTNEY'S [<'iiAp. Sbct. Kong, as being larger, more calculated for a thrivi population, and half the distance from Canton, t should have acted more wisely. I have some reason to remember Chusan, thou. five-and-fifty years have elapsed since I was there ; ; for anything remarkable, except that I had my piL felt by a Chinese physician, and never since by ,1 medical nuin in China or elsewhere. Out of curi(i> I had partaken of a dish prepared by one of the Chin pilots from a mollusca {iiwdum porpita)^ whose tra: parent colourless jelly had rather an inviting appu ance. I had also eaten of some acid fruit jr.esoii; to us ; in consequence of the one or both, I was sii; with a most violent and excruciating pain in the ? mach, so bad that Sir George Staunton ordered • lieutenant, who commanded the ' Clarence,' to sen- boat on shore to inquire for some medical man, ; bring him off. A venerable Chinese physician iiif, his appearance, felt my pulse very carefully, and t our missionary that he would cure me : a person \v with him on shore, brought back a packet containi among other things, a large proportion of rhubarh, , after about twenty-four hours of severe suffering 1 myself again. When in course of conversation, in, years afterwards, I told Sir Henry Halford that, to : knowledge, I had never before this had my pulse t and certainly never since, he threw up his hands ; exclaimed, " AVhat would become of us if every t were like you !" The 'Clarence' having once more passed Kit Point, less whirled round than before, and got into: Yellow Sea, she rejoined our ships at anchor about f miles off. Some of the officers had made visit; sevei Foot of isl pries three temp that for ii Budl posse most havin going bourn on hi tish I which -he on hi capta tion I bably On his cc hend need] cular thec( sion. plicit it ap The terrec [<'llAV, SlO«;y, tl cycles, constellations, their astronomical or astrold. science, the mystical characters of Fo-shee (Fo-hi), a in short, an abstract of all they profess to know on tl, snbjects. The one I brought home contains twc seven concentric circles. The name of their newL Tin^-nan-ching — the needle ])ointing to the i^oiith ; (Kang-hi) Kaunti-shee, who was in the habit of ( mitting his thoughts to })a|)er, thus writes: "II heard Europeans say that Vm\ needle ol)eys the n ■ In our oldest records it is said that it turns to the si The ancients are the first in date ; and the Ihrtli^ ])roceed the more I am convinced of their knowl('(b the mechanism and ()})erations of Nature. Morci as all action grows languid and is nearly sus})eii(K(: wards the north, it is less likely that the virtut', w. gives motion to the magnetic needle, should ])r(i( from that quarter." Kaung-shee was the al)li.-- tab^e Chinese emperors, but how could he reason but t: hogs what he knew? No Cook, no Weddell, no lio.v, overl then given him the benefit of their discoveries. clean On doubling the promontory of the ])r()vince ol'S' Tl tuing, the land became hidden in thick fogs ; i: with clearing a^ay, enabled us to see that we were w: ta-gii four miles of the coast. We had opened out, it sen and < the extensive gulf of Pe-tche-lee, and our j)ilotsl Pe-t( evidently ignorant of our situation, we took the mi cheei of the magistrate of Chusan — to navigate from por till i port — and at the port of Kee-sau-soo took two piln: gainc carry us to IMee-a-tou and to the city of Ten-tdioo- one the governor of which ])aid his res})ects to the An and sador on board the ' Lion,' and sent a triflini:', ;:• Fi called it, refreshment, consisting of four bullock.^;, ^ Pei-h she oil and lot sing I had ship us. and the] repo cour carr bullc kins, and ( "' 'IH [C11.H a«cT. n. KMHASSY TO CIIIXA. 6a inytholo^jy, tl al or iistrold, ;liec (Fo-hi), ,v to know on tli contains twc of tlu'ir U(.'wl! to the ftoutli ; he habit of ( writes : " I 1 obeys the in: tnrnsto the si and the i'artli. heir knowlcd'. atnre. Mom tirlv sns])en(lii; the virtne, \\\ 0, shonhl \)\> vas the abU-- reason but t: (k'll, no lid^-s scoverics. ' |)rovince ni'S thick fogs ; 1 lat we were \y: jned out, it sii: 1(1 our pilots! we took thv ;M vigate from pn o took two |)ii y of Ten-tclioi" pects to the Ai; nt a trilling,;' four bullocks, sheep, eight goats, five sacks of fine white rice, five sacks of red rice, 200 lbs. of flour, and several baskets of fruit and vegetables. He also suj)plied us with another ])ilot tO take the ships across the gulf of Pe-tche-lee to Tien- sing. In crossing this gulf with no land in sight, the water had shoaled to six fathoms ; an unusual situation for large ships to come to anchor in, but nothing else was left for us. Tbe land was from twelve to fifrcen miles distant, and so low as not to be visible from the deck. One of the brigs was despatched to the mouth of the Pei-ho to report our arrival. Here two superior officers from the court had already embarked to wait on the And)assador, carrying witb them refreshments which consisted of 20 bullocks, 100 hogs, 100 shee]), 1000 fowls, 3000 \^\\\\^\^- kinS| as many melons, apples, })ears, plums, apricots, and otlier fruits, with an abundance of culinary vege- tables, and wine in large eartben jars. INIany of the hogs and fowls had been bruised to death and thrown oveAoard, but the Chinese eagerly picked them up, cleaned, and salted them. I?ie names of these two officers were Van and Chou^ wi&^the addition to each oi ta-(/in (great man). Van- ta-gin was a soldier of the rank of lieutenant-general, and Chou-ta-gin a civilian, the governor of a district in Pe-tiChe-lee — two most amiable, well-conditioned, and che#ful men, wbo attended the embassy from this time till lis return to and departure from Canton— men who gainid the esteem and affectionate regard of every one-^ the embass^'•, having been ever ready to ])lease and to make ut all comfortable. Fifteen Chinese vessels having transported into the Pei-ho all that belonged to the embassy, our two great F :ii\ 66 EARL OF MACARTNEYS [^'"Ar,:; ships left the gulf without further delay, the ' Hi; dostau' for Chusan, there to remain for further order and the 'Lion' to Canton. Sfx'tion III. Nav!(/afion of tJie Pcl-Jio from its ^fol(fh to Tun- and thence to Ton