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Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour fttre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est film6 d partir de {'angle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en has, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. ita lure. : !X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 iaa^Mirarii iii-(ioo.) miHi dioalakfie lei. ..^i I, ^fi«ct'iiL:t£i::Jr^^i]S? -,^ :ruu'^iij/fa ?» L iiii No. 100. w _ r SAILING DIRECTIONS roB Gulf and River St. Lawrence and Cape Breton Isund. Compiled by ]{. H. ORI?. U. S. Hyduoghaphic Ofkick. By (lirectiou of Liiu T. Commander RICHARDSON CLOVER, (\ -. N., Hydrographer. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1891. H '''■^''•^^-■'''*''~^'-^ I 'i ' ■' '. t' • r : f ■ C ^t <»• i.fa— ■.>»i,'n"itrii ■' '•[ -y iVi'lti'V i«1 % .Tif'>lJr\('<;iiiiiiiii;' atUrand Point on the nortii and EscniuitnK^ Point oil the weHt HJiore, and running; np the river as tar as Montreal, also Cai»e Breton (exeept south shore), Aiitieosti, and smaller islands lying in the Gulf. Ill the (jonipilation oftiiis volume the following autliorities have been consulted : St. Lawrence Pilot, vol. r (Admiralty). St. Lawrence Pilot, vol. ii (Admiralty). Anihives, U. S. Hydrographic OtTice. Ottlce of Naval Intelligen(!e, Navy Department. Port Charges of tiie World (Hunter). Hydrographic Oflice Charts. Britiah Admiralty Charts. TtioHA-RDSON Clover, Lietit. Comvn xler, L. S. Narn, JJydrof/rapher. IJ. S. Hyuroorapiiic Office, Wanhington, August, 1891. -^ r NOTE. Tlie bearings, courses, and trend of the land are true. The direction of the winds, Ww point from which thej' blow; of currents, the points toward which they sot. Distances are expressed in nautical miles \ soundings, unless otherwise stated, are reduced to mean low water. VI ilirection ie points a.1 miles f ivater. INDEX TO I ALLUDED TO IN PUBLI lliiisiiin ot'f'hiirt i'fii»tni'tu-ii OWLtalrhtiUs A:iai»liinl In I'hun/r. INDEX TO H. O. CHARTS UDED TO IN PUBLICATIONS N03 «9 AND IDO •| J^r-^ v n, ^ O.Jfomtx£iL JSn^r^tm'eti by JtAManjiAi ofut CAKoU i LIST OF HARBOK ;.ND SPECIAL CHARTS. THE HANKS OK NEWFOUNDLAND, NOVA SCOTIA, AND THK GULF OF MAINE. The Great Baiika of Nowfoundland, with the adjacent coast from Cape Bonavista to Cape 8t. Mary , Virgin Rocks and Kastern Shoals Cape St. Mary iind the Miquelou Islands to Halifax, with off-lyinj{ banks, including (Jreen, St. Pierre, Artinion, Misaine, Canso, Sable I, and Sam- bro l)anks, the Middle Ground and Banquereau Halifax to New York, with Roseway, La Have, Brown, and Georges banks, Cashes Ledge, Nantucket Shoals, aud the inshore banks OULF OK ST. LAWHENCE AND ADJACENT COASTS AND J8LAND8. I River and Gnlf of St. Lawrence, Nova Scotia, and adjacent banks, with plans of Georges Shoals and Gut of Canso, Chedabuctou Bay etc Gnlf of St. Lawrence Magdalen Lsliinds, Gulf of St. Lawrence Amherst aud Grand Entry harbors, Magdalen Islands OULK OF ST. LAWRENCE— NORTH AND WEST COASTS. Newfoundland; northern half West coast of Newfoundland from St. Genevieve Bay to Bonne Bay, and south coast of Quebec from Strait of Belle Isle to Cape MacKinnon South coast of Quebec, Washtawooka Bay to Cape MacKinnon Anticosti Island and adjacent coast of Quebec Antioosti Island to Point de Monts River St. Lawrence ; Point de Monts to Saguenay River River St. Lawrence; Saguenay River to Quebec ...'. Quebec Harbor '. JI!! !!!. . Bay of Chaleurs aud adjacent coi.sts, New Brnnswick '.'.'.'....... Gasp^ Harbor, Gulf of St. Lawrence, coast of New Brnnswick !.. Caraquette, Shippegan, and Miscou harbors, Bay of Chaleurs Miraniicbi Bay, New Brunswick PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND AND ADJACENT COASTS AND NEW BRUNSWICK AND NOVA SCOTIA. Prince Edward Island and adjacent coast, inluding Northumberland Strait and northern approaches to the Gut of Canso ; Shediac Bay and Harbor, New Brunswick ...! "I Pngwash Harbor, Nova Scotia Wallace Harbor, Nova Scotia !!!!!! !]!!i Amet Sound and Anchorages, Nova Scotia ! Caribou Harbor, Nova Scotia "[j Piotou Harbor, Nova Scotia, plan of entrance and liar ..[....".[].". Merigomish Harbor, Nova Scotia ; Pomquet Harbor and Road and Tracadie aud Li tile Tracadie harbors, Nova Scotia I vii »rtO 863 198 'J41 15 1013 1092 1107 581a 1105 1108 1109 1110 1111 1112 1-207 1067 1167 1217 1179 106 18:<6 l.i l-.i78 107.-) 0-& 1074 11-24 UK) ll:« 1173 106tt 113.-1 041 147 524 not! 610 1057 1247 1054 1051 600 U9 1247 NutlllliT of — cbarts. Ait, - • • • lotus - - • • 10»0 I09i> 10t)8 .... 1160 1077 fill 1079 ian7 1134 10(il 1097 155 12:'6 15 lara 1075 5!>5 1074 ll',>4 UK) ll:« 1173 1069 1135 941 147 524 not) 610 1057 1247 1054 1051 609 149 1247 CHAPTER I. DIREOTION.S ACROSS THE GULF. * " ' *' General Remarks—The navigation of the gulf ami r.ver of St Lawrence (m the present chapter spoken of as the g.ilf and the river)' requires much careful attention ; the irregularity of the tides and cur- rents, the severity of the climate, especially towards the close of the navigable season; and, above all, the frequent fogs, are difficulties which may well cause much anxiety iu the miud of the seaman, and which call for the exercise of all his vigilance, prudence, and ability. The Variation.— The navigator is reminded that the variation of the compass differs nearly two points betwen the limits of the places described in this work, viz, at Grand Point 36o, and at Quebec 17*0 The Deviation or local attraction of the compass needle is another source of error, independent of charts altogether. This subject is one ot great importance in approaching and navigating the gulf, as from the increase of the magnetic dip and the decrease in the horizontal magnetic force that is found here-two dements affecting the shin's magnetism-tlie original deviation of the compass will, in all probabilitv be much inoreased. In many vessels it has been ascertained by direct observation that their maximum deviation have been increased by one- Magnetic Attraction of the Shores.-An opinion is prevalent that the compasses of vessels are disturbed in the gulf and river, and such disturbance has been attributed to the magnetic ores of iron in the hills, particularly those of the north coast. The magnetic oxide of iron does exist abundantly, and attracts the needle verv powerfullv at some points, particularly along the coast from the bay of Seven Islands eastward. Among the Mingan Islands the variation was found to vary from this cause from 19o to 31o w. At Port Neuf and on Manicougan Point the needle was also disturbed. But these effects were onlv noticed when the instrument was placed on the shore. When running from place to place, at greater distances than 2 miles from the coast nothing of the kind was noticed ; so that in nine cases out oJZ '^^^'^ *,'»•« ««"r«e of erroneous reckoning has been alleged as the cause of accidents to vessels they probably originated either in errors of the chart or in th^ local attraction on board the vessels themselves ,v« T °^^^® difficulties of the navigation may be mentioned the ZrJnfTT^' fr''^^ '" '^^ '°^°*^ °^ ^^y* ^^^ «°*^«°«« a°d eastern parts of the gulf are frequently covered with drift ice, and vessels are 5489 ■! •^■■i 1 2 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. sometimes beset by it for many days. Being unprepared for contend- ing with this danger they often suffer from it and are occasiotially lost ; but serious accidents from tliis cause do not frequently occur, because the ice is gcMierally more or less in a melting state fr >m the i)owerful effect of the sun in spring. In the fall of the year accidents from ice seldom happen, except when the winter commences unusually early, or when vessels have lingered imprudently late from the temptation of obtaining high freights. Cabot Strait is never frozen over, but vessels built in the ordinary way can not navigate it in safety between 1st January and 1st May on account of (he heavy drift ice, and frecjuenily not until later on account of the block caused by the " Bridge." Sealing steam vessels i)ass through at all times, but are occasionally fast in the ice for days together. Nearly every year the great rush of ice out of the Gulf of the St. Lawrence in the spring causes a stoppage, locally known as '• the Bridge,'' between St. Paul Island and Cai)e Riiy. The " Bridge " sometimes lasts for 2 or 3 weeks, and completely prevents the passage of ships ; it is recorded that 300 sail have at one time been detained by this obstacle, and many wrecks have occurred in consequence on the Newfoundland coast. The usual time of the formation of the " Bridge" is between the middle and end of April to thw middle of May. Small vessels are engaged ui the seal fishery duving March and April, and occasionally reach Anticosti. The diffl«ult portion is between the Bird Rocks and Cape St. George as the stream presses the ice on to the coast. The wind between NVV, and SW. closes the coast. A SW. gale occasionally brings the ice out from the channel between the Mag- dalen Islands and Cape Breton, which meets the main bodj' flowing past the Bird Rocks and closes the strait between St. Paul and Cape An- guille. The wind between NW. and NB. clears the strait rapidly and the wind between NE. and south opens the Newfoundland coast. The stream of the St. Lawrence is generally setting to the southward and often with considerable speed, particularly during westerly winds. The strait often appears to clear rapidly ; in 36 hours very little ice may be seen from Cai)e Ray, but bodies of ice will pass many days after navigation is open, particularly if the winds are northerly. NE. of Anticosti ice may be met with in May, long after the strait is clear. The ice usually presses out of the gulf in the direction of Banquereau, the eastern edge extending half-way between Scatari and St. Pierre. Occasionally it is drifted along the south coast of Newfoundland and reaches St. Pierre. The coast between Cape North and Scatari often holds the ice during easterly winds late in May. The early stream of slob made on the Labrador coast and the north nsuaily passes into the gulf during the month of December and mixes' with the gulf sheet when it is made early, but it is often open water. ;^i-^t!a»rR " n r 'Wur ,ihn,r , . n" ■ ' fyf | - | -- , , , ' i ||ii ; i i i M,|j ,' u-;i lOK. _ ^ The eaHt winds arwl snow bnild this thin ice and produce a form of white slob. The northern slob enters tlie Rulf about tlie Otii of .lanuaiy with variations extending over a niontii, but it may not be permitted to pass lilanc Sablon if the wind is N\V. The ice can not at present be foL lowed ; It may arrive off Bonne Bay during January or February, or it may be driven into the Labrador coast, all depending on the wind. The gulf sheet makes early and rapidly during tiie cold season and is often in sheets a mile or two in length and occasionally it will be fast for a few days from Meccatiua to Cow Head in February, (ienerally spealviug, it is loose, with lanes and lakes extending in the direction of tlie wind and current, and is navigated by snmll vessels during March and Aprd sailing from Natashquan and Esquiineaux foint. lOE IN THE GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE AND VHINITV. During December and January the harbors and bays around theCJnIf of St. Lawrence begin to freeze, and by January 20, ice will have fornied over most of them. In some the ice made there will eventually become thick enough to interfere with navigation, wliile in others it will com- pletely close the i)ort and prevent the entrance of all vessels. By Feb- ruary 1, the open water in the gulf will be full of ice-fields formed there while other ice will enter through the Strait of Belle fsle and from the River St. Lawrence. Off the coast the ice is inconstant motion, drifting with the winds, tides, and currents, and is slowly working down towards Cabot Strait', through which it passes and finds its way to seaward. Its path broad- ens when through the strait, and will be governed generally by the pre- vailing winds. Under the influence of currents alone it will drift to the southward and westward, and in latitude 45° N. may be from 10 to 75 miles wide. Much of this is very heavy, and will prevent the pas- sage through it of all vessels not specially built to go through ''?e. Its thickness will be anything from a few inches to several feet. It is only in the Strait of Belle Isle that bergs are encountered, but rarely farther west than Greenly Island, though a few have been known to find their way south through Cabot Strait. Field ice will be found in the gulf until May and often lasts until June, when it is generally replaced by bergs. Much of the ice in the gulf will be rough and rafted full of hummocks and in extensive fields. Some of the Arctic ice in finding its way into the gulf IS forced ashore at times, but large quantities mix with the gulf ice and make it very heavy and close. Once the ice forms on open water sufficiently strong to interfere with navigation it begins to drift, filling some ports that may remain closed all winter, while a favorable or adverse wind may continue to open or close them the entire winter. Leads may be found extending through the ice at any time, but they can not be depended upon for any length of time. Heavy ice is noticed at the month of the River St. Lawrence in the 4 GULF AND RIVEIl ST. LAWRENCE. latter purt of Deeeinlx^r, and IiiHtH until April 10 or 15, but all during the aua.son luadn can be found when the wind drives the ice to either sule of the river. The Gut of CauHo is blocked at times by drift ice from the northward, but will be opened with a southerly wind. West of Cape Canso the ice rarely, if ever, interferes with navigation. Halifax, for example, has only been closed once in 25 years, and then only for a short time, by ice frozen in the harbor, though ice an inch or two in thic'Miess frequently freezes there. Fogs may occur at any time during the open or navigable season, and they sometimes last several days in succession, but are most fre- quent in the early part of summer, and seldom fail to accompany an easterlv wind of any strength or duration. In the months of October and November the fogs and rain that accompany easterly gales are replaced by thick snow. During westerly winds they are rare, and never of long continuance. The above general observation is subject, however, to restriction, ac- cording to locality or season. Thuswiuds between the south and west, which are usually clear weather winds above Anticusti, are frequently accompanied with fog in the eastern parts of the gulf. Winds between the south and east are almost always aocom])anied with rain and fog in every part. NE. winds above Point de Mouts are often east or more to the southward in the gulf, changed in direction by the high lauds of the south coast, and have therefore in general the same foggy charac- ter. Winds of considerable strength and duration are here meant, and which probably extend over great distances. Moderate and partial Une weather winds may occur without fog in any season and in any locality. In the early part of the uavigable sea- son, especially in the months of April and May, clear weather NE. winds are of frequent occurrence, and they also sometimes occur at other seasons in every part of the gulf and river. The fogs which accompany easterly gales extend high above the sea, and can uot be seen over from the masthead of a vessel ; occasionally they admit the land or other objects to be distinguished at the dis- tance of ^ mile or more in the day time. The fogs that occur in calms, especially after strong winds, are frequently so dense as to conceal a vessel within hail ; these fogs are usually not much elevated above the sea, so that when objects are hidden at 50 yards from the deck they can be plainly seeu by a person 50 or CO feet up in the rigging. When within sight of land in foggy weather the usual effect of fog is that of causing estimations of distance to be erroneously in excess. No great reliance should be placed upon an assumption of position de. pending upon the distance at which the sound of surf breaking on a rocky shore can be heard, but on many portions of the coast where steep clifls extend to the shore the proximity of a steam vessel to them may be detected by the echo of the whistle. There is no safe guide but the constant use of the lead. • I liinrniaii >ll (luring to eitlier )r til ward, iviRiitioii. and tlitMi kii iiiuli or le season, most fre- npaiiy an f October gales are rare, and iction, ac- and west, requeiitly 9 between bud fog in tr more to [i lauds of ;y clmrac- leaut, and )ut fog in gable sea- ,ther NB. I occur at B the sea, :asionally ■j the dis- in calms, D conceal above the c they can 3«t of fog :ce88. No isitiou de. king on a ast where )1 to them guide but WIND8. 5 Winds.— Tlu' prevailing winds during the navigable season areeitiior directly up or directly down the estuary, following tin- course ot the chains of highlands on either side of the great valley of the St. Law- rence. The westerly winds do not a|ipeiir to he so much guided in «lirec- tion by the highlands, excepting along the south coast, where ,\ SW. wind at the island of Hie was observed to become a N\V. wind at Cape Oaspe. These winds frequently blow strong for .'{ or 4 days in succes- sion; the westerly winds being almost always accompanied by line, dry, clear, and sunny weather; the easterly winds as fre(|uently the tioii- trary — cold, wet, and foggy. In the si)ring easterly winds mostly prevail, frequently l)lowing sev- eral weeks in succession. As the summer advances the westerly winds become more frequent, and the SW. wind may be said to be the pre- vailing wind in summer in all parts of the river and gulf. Light south winds blow occasionally ; but north winds are not common in summer, although they sometimes occur. Steady NW. winds do not blow frequently before September, excepting for a f.-w hours at a time, when they generally succeed easterly winds which have died away to a calm, forming the comnieucemeiit of strong winds and usually veering to the SW. The NW. wind is dry, with bright clear sky. Hying clouds, and showers. After the autumnal equinox, winds to the northward of west become more commoii, and are then often strong steady winds of considerable duration. In the months of October and November the NW. wind frequently blows with great violence in heavy squalls, with passing showers of hail and snow, and attended with sharp frost. Thunder-storms are not uncommon in July and August. They sel- dom last more than an hour or two, but the wind proceeding from them is in general violent and sudden, particularly when near the niountiiinous part of the coast. Sail should, therefore, be fully and quickly reduced on their approach. Strong winds seldom veer quickly from one quarter of the comjiass to the otiposite. They generally fail calm, and are succeeded by a wind in the opposite direction. It is not meant, however, by this observa- tion that they may not veer to the amount of several points. The N W. winds seldom or never veer round by north and NE. to east and SK., but they do frequently by degrees to the S W., after becoming moderate. SW. winds seldom veer by the NW. and north to the eastward, but sometimes by the south to SK. and east. Easterly winds generally decrease to a calm, and are succeeded by a wind from the opposite direction. In the fine westerly winds of summer a fresh breeze will often de- crease to a light breeze or calm at nigiit, and spring ui) again from the same quarter on the following morning. Under these ciniumstiiiices only may a land breeze oft" the north coast be looked for. The same has been observed oft' the south coast also, but not so(leci«leilly or ex- tending so far oft" shore. The north land wind may occasioiiaily be 6 GULF AND HIVKU NT. LAWUKNCK. f I' I : ciirriiMl lu^iirly over to tlie Noutli (iouHtjuHt boforii iliiyliKlit, Init t\w N<»utli itiiitl vvihil Mt^ltloiii I'xteinlH mow tliuii 5 or «{ inilt^H oil", and that very rarely. llrnU'r tlie Haiiie oirciiiiiMtaiKU'H, that in, with a tlim weather westerly wind Koinj; down with the nun, a H\V. land breeze will tr«- r easterly find some- savy cross IIAUOMKTKK. 7 The Imroiin'ttT Homefimes btf the west- erly gale is usually gii 'fst soon uUrr its coiiimeiKtemenl, ami dimin- ishes as the barometer rise-*, veering gnvdually to the west and S\V. It is worthy of remark that the cireumHtances Just mentioned are ex- actl.v the reverse (»f those attending the easterly gale. Tlie latrer usu- ally commeiKies with clear weather and a high barometer, light at llrst from the south or SK., and gradually increasing as it veers to the east- Vvard, with a falling barometer. To return to the westerly gale. If, after it has veered to the 8VV. and become moderate, the barometer remains steady at a moderate height, tine weather may be expecttcd. If it remains at a considerable height, but Htill Huctiiating and unsteady, within certain limits, variable, liut not heavy, winds and variable weather may be expected. If, on the contrary, it rises quickly to a great height, a repetition of the south- erly or easterly gale will not lie improbable. Seasons have been ex- perienced in which the l)arometer may be said to have lieen no sooner blown up by one wind than it has been blown down l)y another, and this stormy alternation to have (iontinned for several month , whilst ia others there has been scarcely a ilouble-reefed topsail breeze during the whole summer. There is in fact so great adit!ereiicein tlie phenomena of the weather ^n different seasons, that it becomes dilllcult to write anything respect- ing it that shall not be liable to many exceptions. There are, however, some strongly marked cases of connection between the indications of the barometer and changes of the winds and weather which have been subject to few, or almost no exceptions. The (Irst of these cases is that most common one, of a southerly or an easterly j;ale, with a falling barometer, being always wet and foggy, and succet-ded by a strong wind from the opposite quarter, with a rising barometer, and tine weather. A second case, not of so frequent occurrence in common seasons, ex- cepting in spring or early in summer, is the northeasterly wind with a rising barometer ; which, although it may not l)e at ti rst for a few hours, will almost always become fine and clear, and end iii tine weather. A third case may be considered certahi : If the barometer fall suddenly and greatly at any time, a northerly, and most probably a NW. gale, of great strength may be confidently expected. It does not follow tiiat it will be immediate, for it may l)e preceded by a strong gale from SW. for a few hours, during which the barometer will seldom rise, and event probably, continue to fall ; but when the S W. gale dies away the north- erly or NW. will soon succeed, with a rising barometer. In conclusion it may bo remarked that as, on the one hand, a consid- erable fall of the barometer may occur without being followed by a mwii!Ul(U>^,,^4, 8 GULP AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. Strong wiud, so, on the other, a breeze of considerable strength may come on without any indication from the barometer; but not anything that deserves the name of a gale. There has never, within our experi- ence, occurred a gale so heavy as to be of serious consequence to a good vessel the approach of which has not been indicated by the barometer. But it must be remembered that a high barometer in this climate, and under the circumstances which have been mentioned, is often indicative of a southerly or an easterly gale. It is remarkable that in the gulf and estuary of the St. Lawrence a iiigli barometer may be considered as the forerunner of wet and foggy weather, which usually accompanies its fall; whilst a low barometer renders it equally probable that dry weather will ensue, since it as often accompanies its rise. The marine barometer, therefore, is of the greatest assistance in the navigation of the gulf and river; and by attending constantly to its state and changes, with reference to the winds and weather which preceded them, combined with the indications afforded by the appearance of the sky, etc., those changes of the wind and weather which are about to take place may be anticipated with a degree of certainty sufiBcient, in most cases, to enable a vessel to avoid being caught on a lee-shore or in au •ausafe anchorage, as well as to regulate her course in anticipation of the coming change Currents. — In the main entrance of the gulf, between Newfound- laud and Cape Breton Island, a current is very often found setting to the southeastward during westerly winds, or in calm weather ; but east- erly winds retard it and sometimes cause it to run in the contrary di- rection. It is frequently deflected to the southward towards Cape Bre- ton Island by northerly winds, and by the current from the northward which has entered the gulf through the strait of Belle Isle. But winds, both present and at a distance, act so powerfully and irregularly on the rate and direction of the currents and tides in this entrance of the gulf, as to render it difficult to say anything respecting them that is not sub- ject to exceptions. Through Strait of Belle Isle.— The reality of a current inwards through the strait of Belle Isle is confirmed by the presence of icebergs, which it transports into the gulf every summer, against the prevailing SW. winds, frequently carrying them as far as Mecattina, and some- times to Natashquan, and the neighborhood of the east point of An- ticosti. It is probable that this is a branch of the great current from Davis Strait, which is known to run along the coast of Labrador, and to transport numerous icebergs far to the southward every year. This current will be mentioned again under the head of the strait of Belle Isle. Its strength is much increased by a prevalence of NE. winds ; at such times it runs at the rate of 2 knots through the strait, and for 30 to 40 miles farther to the westward, diminishing gradually in force as it spreads out in the wider parts of the gulf. Usually, however, its rate is much less. At times, when SW. winds prevail, it becomes very weak, at »i>wg e*« szM-v^f^-m wiia9t^K«eN3?N»aeea)iigaag^int of Au- irrent from ,dor, and to V'ear. This lit of Belle . winds ; at and for 30 in force as ^er, its rate very weak. aud it has even been reported that a current has been observed setting out of the gulf in a contrary direction to the NE. for dayri together» but this was never observed by us during either of the three seasons which we passed there. There is, however, no doubt that tliis current is extremely irregular, as might be expected at the narrow outlet of a great inland sea, wh'-re winds, both within and without, must of neces- sity possess great intluence. After entering the gulf the current sets westward along the north or Labrador coast, at a distance of 2 or 3 miles from the outer islands, leaving a narrow space inshore in which the streams of the tides, when uniniluenced by winds, are tolerably regular. Passing outside of Mis- tanoque, the islands of the Great Mecaltina and South Makers Ledge, it pursues a direction given to it by the trending of the coast till it is turned gradually to the southward by the weak current, which is often found setting to the eastward between Anticosti aud the north coast during westerly winds, and which is set off to the southward from Nathashquan Point. The united streams continue their southern course at a rate diminishing as they become more widely spread, and which rate seldom exceeds half a knot; and finally joining the main downward cur- rent out of the river St. Lawrence, of which an account will be given immediately, they all pursue a SB. direction towards the main entrance of the gulf, between Cape Ray and the island of St. Paul. It is this south- erly current which is felt by vessels crossing from off Bird Hocks to- wards Anticosti, and which, together with neglecting to allow for the local attraction of the compass, has been the principal cause of vessels so often finding themselves unexpectedly on the south coast. Many ship- wrecks have arisen from this cause near Cape Rosier, Gasp6, Mai Baj', etc. Both these currents, viz, that from the northward and the main down- ward current of the river St. Lawrence, are modified by the tides, but in a way directly contrary; for the. northern current in through the Strait of Belle Lsle is accelerated by the flood and checked by the ebb, whilst the other is accelerated by the ebb and cheeked by the flood tide. These modifying causes, namely, the tides and winds, give rise to vari- ous combinations and consequent irregularities in the direction and strength of these streams, which it is extremely difflcultat ail times to estimate and allow for correctly. Main Current of the River. — The current along the south coast appears to be superficial, at least it was found so in tlie lower i)arts of the estuary, where observations upon the specific gravity of the water on the surface aud taken up from different depths prove that the water of the St. Lawrence and its numeviuis tributary streams was widely diffused over the estuary. It has also been.observed that the current is strongest in spring soon after the opening of the navigation, when the rivers are swelled by the recently dissolved snows of the winter; but although, generally speaking, there seens no doubt that this current is sis#- 10 GULP AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. ! I the tribute of the St. Lawrence ou its way to the ocean vet in H,« upper part of the estuary, it is not alone and at a 1 times caused by tSe discharge o the St. Lawrence, but depends also upon pecul arises in he set ot the tales. Thus, when our observations had co.2i the tru h ot the report that the current always ran down on the sonth s d! of the estuary fro,n a few miles below Red Island towrnirtir/s land of th^; ts tuld be'th""' '' '''' '' ^^^"^*"''^' ''' '' appeareXt;?b^' tiiat this could be the comparatively fresh water of the St. Lawrence ^Ze'Zyl W "', '"T'^ *'^'' «^*' ^'•- '' -« known tiraHh ^bole I ody a few miles above, from shore to shore, on eituer tide of t^e flood tm' "^ f ' •" ''' ^'*^'"°*^^ «'-^' --« running u, during the flood tide. Attention and numerous observations, together wit I an Z7:::rjtt: r*^"'^^"" ^^^ ^^^•'''^« ^^^^''^ ofTe wZ r The flood tl ,' "'^"^'' '*^*^^ ^°"^' ^'^'^'^ •« '^^^ «-P'ainec. The flood tide ascends in a wide channel more than 100 fathoms deen- Tnd'R TrT?.'' ^''^ comparatively narrow pass formed by a^eenlsl'- and, Red Islet Reef, and the extensive shoals off the entrant o? the the' "Zefr:. "' " f ?' '''''''''' ^' ^«» - h^ the shol s of ffreat a voh, n r 'T""^''^'^ ^^'' ^'^"''^' '^^''^ '« "^^ room forso IZT U ""^^^^ '" ''^''' ^"♦^ P^*-* of >t is in consequence turned the RrzadflT r "''f '^"' ^^'""^ ^^""^ ^^'-^ Ked Islet^eef towards the Raza e Islets, as shown by the arrows in the chart. During the a^r tltd^ :T '' ?: '*^"^"^^ ««^« -- ^'^ '^^ southward in he estTary. ' ' '^^ '"'''■'°* ^° *^^' «*^« '« ^^^^y^ down the There is no upward stream of the tide (excepting so close inshore as to be useless to ships) all along the south coast from Cape C Ho a flood":^tl thr "*'" ''''''' " consequence Of the union'of th f eddy flood with the mam current of the river; and they have, therefore so c:rir;re2,r"''°'' *" '' -"' ^-"^-^^^ Commencing from a short distance below the Red Islet Reef the enr rent is there very strong, about 4 knots. It increases n velocity as [t proceeds to the southeastward, slanting over towards t^e rI^^^^^^^ oft wh.ch Its rate is from 2 to 3 knots. It runs strongly ak.ng the northern edge of the bank of soundings oft" the south coast^ upon which esi^ciaily ,n spring tides, a weak stream of flood will be fouml flowing marked b> a strong ripple. Prom Father Point to Oane Gh^tta fwl rate of the city as it :ade Islets along the >on which, id flowing is usually hatte, the iog to the Tongeron B estuary. I of Mille the ebb- ce which should be carefully attended to by vessils coining up with a northerly wind; as they will infallibl be set over to the southward upon a lee shore, if they do not mak the necessary allowance by keeping their wind well over to the northward. During the flood tide this stream still continues to run down outside the bank of soundings off the south coast, although with diminished ve- locity, and it is lelt about halfway towards north shore. In the middle of the estuary there is usually slack water, whilst along the north coast the stream of flood is regular in its recurrence, increasing in force as we ascend the estuary. The strength of the stream of flood is greatest inshore, and diminishes as we proceed over to the southward, till at the distance of about 9 miles it becomes imperceptible. These diftereuces in the strength and direction of the streams produce strong ripples in various parts of the estuary, but their position varies with the different times of tide, and perhaps from other causes, so that they can not safely be trustod for any guidance to the seamen. Kouud Point de Monts there is little or no stream of flood, excepting very close inshore ; the downward current is constant, or nearly so, off" that point and it requires a fast-sailing vessel to beat round it against a westerly wind. Point de Monts turns this current over to the SE., at a rate varying from one to 2 knots, so that a vessel having a west wind, and standing over to the southward on the starboard tack, will be carried towards the south coast at a rapid rate, having the current on her weather quarter ; during her board back to the northward she will be retarded, the current being then directly opposed to her course. When sailing at the rate of 4 knots it will usually require only about half the time to go from near Point de Monts over to the south coast that it will take to return from the latter to the former. This is a most important circumstance, which it is necessary to carefully guard against when beating up the estuary in this part during dark nights, and, especially, in foggy weather. Below Point de Monts the current is no longer felt near the north coast, nor, indeed, anywhere to the northward of a line joining Point de Monts and Anticosti. It is confined to the neighborhood of the south coast, which it follows in its curve to the southward, running strongly past Cape Gaspe, Flat Island, and Bonaventure Island ; whence curving gradually to the south and SE, it continues its course to- wards the entrance of the gulf, with a rate very much lessened in consequence of the great space over which it is now spread. The usual breadth of this stream from Magdalen River to Cape Gasp6 is 9 or 12 miles ; but this we believe is not uniform. When SW. winds prevail it appears that this current, or a branch of it, is driven over from the vicinity of Magdalen River towards Anti- costi ; part of the stream running round the west point of that island sets across nearly towards Large Island (one of the Mingan Islands), whence turning gradually down outside the Mingan and Esquimaux Islands, I iiii i ii 'tl l T i B i fiajg i igiBTiM| i BrHi^< u<« » .i Bfr.:- g^^>a- ffh rt 12 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. ^afiiiiaE^ and along the north coast, it sweeps round the cnrve to the westward of Natasliqnan Point, and is turned off to the southward, as has been already mentioned. The other part sweeps round the hirge curve, or bay, between the west and 8W. points of Anticosti, and is turned off to the southward by the latter point, frequently causing a great ripple off it, which has been mistaken for breakers on a much more extensive reef than exists tht^re. The rate of this current has been noted, off different parts of the south coast between Cajjos Chatte and Gaspe, in the months of June, July, August, aud September, and in different years, and scarcely ever found the same. It varied between one and '2 knots in westerly winds. It was weaker, often nearly insensible, In easterly winds ; and in one instance, off Mont Louis Kiver, in a calm which was followed by a strong breeze from the eastward, it could not be perceived. Vessels beating up the St. Lawrence against westerly winds usually experience little difficulty in making good way to windward, after hav- ing weathered the west point of Anticosti and arrived on the north coast ; because there is seldom any current on that side, and the tides, although weak, are tolerably regular. It is in general easy to beat from the Seven Islands to Point de Monts, lor there the stream of flood is stronger than the ebb ; the latter, as well as the current, being turned off to the southward by the point. There seems at times also to be an eddy current there, sweeping round the great bay or curve between the above-named points. It sets off from about Egg Islet to the southward ; and is the probable cause why vessels, which shape a direct course for Point de Monts with a leading NW. wind off the land at night, so often find themselves obliged to haul up for or unable to fetch the light. Any further remarks respecting the tides and currents will be of a more lo(!al nature, and will, therefore, be best given where the particu- lar places or parts of the coast are described. The object here was to give a condensed view of the princi|)al streams wliich mainly affect a vessel ill her voyage either up or down through the gulf anil estuary. Directions across the Oulf.— Lights.— All the lights in the gulf and river St, Lawrence are lighted on the 1st April and extinguished on 2()th December, except the lights on Bird Kock aud St. Paul Is- land, which are exhibited until 31st December. All the lightshii)s in the river St. Lawrence below Quebec leave Quebec each spring for their stations as early as ice will permit. Tlie Manicouagan lightship leases her station for winter quarters on the lOth, and ti»e Eed Island lightship on the 15th of November an- nually. All the gas buoys in the river St. Lawrence will be set out as soon as possible after the lUh of May each spring, and taken u|) as soon as convenient after the 10th of November, when they will be replaced by wooden can buoys. All buoys in the river St. Lawrence below Quebec will be removed CURRENTS — DIRECTIONS. 13 10 westward a8 has been large curve, itl is turned ing a great much mure It has been Chatte and ber, and iu l)etween one ' insensible, ir, in a calm it couhl not netween the southward; ; course for ht, so often ) light, ill be of a he particn- ' ere was to ly affect a id estuary, in the gulf tiiiguished t. Paul Is- ebec leave mit. uarters on ember an- >ut as soon as soon as placed by e removed after the 14th of November, excepting five, viz: Those replacing the gas buoys at each end of the Beaujeu Bank and at the Channel Patch, one at the west end of Middle Bank and one at St. Roch, East Point, in the Traverse, wliich will be left, weather permitting, until the last ocean vessel has passed out. Vessels bound to any of the ports in the Gulf of St. Lawrence should endeavor to make St. Paul Island, which, being of considerable elevation and bold all around, may with care and a good lookout, be made at night, or even in fogs, unless the former be very dark or the lattei' very thick. Caution.— In a[>proaching St. Paul from the SK. with northerly winds, the current mentioned at page 8 as at times coming from the northward and setting towards the shore of Cape Breton, should be guarded against by attending to the soundings on the bank, which extend 7 or 8 leagues off Scatari Island, and off the eastern coast of Cape Breton Island as far northward as Ingouish, beyond which the depth is too great to afford any guidance. The lights, together with the soundings, afford abundant guidance to vessels passing the eastern extremity of Cape Breton Island. The south coast of Newfoundland, eastward of Cape Ray, is broken, rocky, and dangerous. The tides and currents, being influenced by the winds, are irregular, whilst all south- erly and easterly winds, and often also southwesterly winds, bring a thick fog, which is most dense near the lee shore. On these accounts this coast should not be approached, excepting with a decided north- erly wind and clear weather. St. Paul to Bird Rocks and Magdalen Islands.— After having passed St. Paul Island vessels bound to Canada should endeavor, if the weather be clear, to make the Bird Rocks ; Great Bird Rock, the largest or southeasternmost, boars from the north point of St. Paul N. 48° W. 55 miles. There is a deep channel between St. Paul and the bank on which Magdalen Islands are situated. Following the eastern edge of the Magdalen Bank to the northward, inclining gradually to the NW., regular soundings extend from 28 to 35 fathoms over sand, stones, and broken shells, the latter depth being where Great Bird Rock bears west, and when the same rock bears S. 45° W., distant Vih miles, there will be 50 fathoms over fine sand on the edge of the bank, shoaling gradually in to 24 fathoms within one mile of the rocks. In thick weather, which almost always accompanies east- erly and southerly winds, this bank is an excellent guide up to Bird Bocks, but under such circumstances if the light can not be seen it will be safer to run along the northern edge of the bank, taking care not to come into less than 40 fathoms than to attempt to make the rocks. When well past them by the reckoning a course can be shaped up the gulf. In northerly winds the weather is usually clear ; and, if the vessel be far enough to windward, it will be advisable to stand to the westward and ' TMi^sms i Mwt J lst ■nun— t i M i u GULP AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. endeavor to make Entry Island, taking care to avoid Doyle Reef and tlie sandy spit off the east end of Magdalen Islands by not approaching tlio islands in that part nearer than the depth of 20 fathoms. Under the lee of these islands a smooth sea will be found, sntticient guid- ance by the soundings, and good shelter and excellent anchorage in Pleasant Bay. Another advantage of following this course arises from the circum. stance that the winds generally veer to the SW. ; so that, if a vessel has i)a.sse(l to leeward of Magdalen Islands with northerly or NW. winds on the starboard tack, the succeeding SW. wind will enable her to stand on the opposite tack towards Cape Gasped. Bird Rocks to Anticosti Island. — In making this part of the voy. age up the gulf, the frequent current from the northward, mentioned in page 1>, should be considered, and the lead should be frequently hove. By consulting the chart it will be seen that there are soundings to be obtained nearly all the way upon, aud to southward of, a line joining Bird Rocks and Cape Gaspe, whilst a few miles to the northward of that line tiiere is no bottom with 80 fathoms of line. With a fair wind the object should be to make the SW. point of An- ticosti marked by a remlinnn light; and, with westerly winds, any part of the coast of that island which can be attained. The fixed light on Heath Point, at the east end of that island, will render it easy to make the east end of the island at night, if the weather be clear; and, if the weather be thick, the bank of soundings, which extends off it 28 miles to the southeastward, may serve to determine the vessel's position by the lead. At the distance from the island above named the depth is C2 fathoms, shoaling gradually in towards the island. Passage North of Anticosti.— In the event of a vessel being near the eastern extremity of Anticosti, and having succeeded in making East Cape, or the light on Heath Point, with a SW. wind, it will often be preferable to proceed to the northward of the island, where there is a good channel, rather than to tack aud stand back to the southward and eastward. Under the lee of Anticosti, she will in this case have a smooth sea, and often also clear weather, whilst there is a heavy swell and frequently a thick fog to windward of it. She will, moreover, avoid the current out of the St. Lawrence, which runs constantly with westerly winds between the south coast and Anticosti ; aud thus be able at all times to make way to the westward in moderate weather. At night, or in foggy weather, the bank of soundings off the north coast, and farther westward the banks off Mingau Islands, will safely guide her, even although the land should not be visible. All the way from Natashquan Point to the river St. John, westward of Mingan Islands, there are banks of sand, gravel, broker, ,0'ells, and bits of coral extending off the coast many miles. Off Mi.igan Islands these banks extend halfway across to Anticosti. The depth of water varies upon them ; to the eastward, or below Mingan Islands, it is in DIRECTIONS. 15 e Beef and .pproacliiiig ns. Under iuient giiid- icborage iu ;Uo circiiiu. if a vessel ly or NW. enable her of the voy. entioiied in lently liove. dings to be ine Joining rard of tbat int of An- 8, any part ed liglit on sy to make and, if the it 28 miles ►osition by depth is G2 being near in making ; will often jre there is southward sase have a leavy swell moreover, ;antly with id thus be ;e weather. the north will safely westward .O'ells, and an Islands 1 of water is, it is in general between 30 and 50 fathoms; but in sonie few places it exceeds the latter depth, whilst in others there is as little as 19 fathoms. I'ro- cceding westward the depths gradually decrease to CO fathoms otV the north point, where they become irregular tor a few miles, varying from 50 to 70 fathoms with occasional rocky bottom, and then deepen again, with mud bottom, farther to the westward. In all this deep-water channel, with the single exception which has been stated, the bottom is, for the most part, of blue mud. vSuch a re- markable difference in the nature of the bottom, as well as in the depth of water, renders it comparatively easy to take a vessel throngli this channel at night or in foggy weather. But in order to effect this with safety the vessel should be furnished with Massey's patent sounding machine .;'<'! lead, or other similar instrument, which must be (reely used as she runs along the southern edge of the banks of sand, gravel, and shells, sheering occasionally to the southward into the deep water and muddy bottom to make sure of not getting too far to tiie north- ward. The reefs off St. Genevieve and Hunting Islands are very dangerous, for there are some deep-water soundings, between 50 and 70 fathoms inside the outer banks, which might lead to a mistake if care were not taken to keep on the southern edge of the outer banks. Proceeding westward, the channel contracts gradually to the nar- rowest part, which is between the reefs off the north point of Anticosti and oft" Mingan Islands, where it is 13i miles wide. To i)as8 this safely at night or in foggy weather, it is necessary that the lead should be kept constantly going as the vessel runs along the southern edge of the bank oft" the Mingan Islands, and she should not be allowed to go to the northward into less than 30 fathoms of water. If the vessel should be met by a westerly wind, down the channel, it will be attended with clear weather, and the white cliffs of Anticosti, which extend from the east point westward to opposite St. Genevieve, will easily be seen. A vessel may stand in without fear to within a mile or two of this part of the coast, which, with the exception of the reefs oft' Fox Bay, is bold and free from danger. Farther westward the coast is low and shelving, and reefs extend further off. In the board to the northward at night, the sounding oa the banks will show when to tack. Currents. — It has been remarked already (page 11) that, in westerly winds, there is a weak current down this channel, but it is not constant and its rate seldom exceeds half a knot. Sometimes it is imperceptible during the flood tide and runs even the other way on the approach of easterly winds. Vessels, however, should be aware that on arriving off the north point of Anticosti with a west or SVV. wind this current will almost always be found setting to the NE., being turned off' into that direction by the west end of the island. Couflued within a compara- tively narrow channel, it is here stronger than elsewhere, running iu i» • — ^u^Vmh;'^ \ t •" 16 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. the ebb tide, about a knot, and in the Hood tide, half a icaot in the offiug. Passage South of AnticostL — Vessels meeting with a westerly wind in the soutli citannel Hhould stand over towards the island of An- ticosti and make boards, off and on, of 9 or 12 miles, to avoid the cur- rent out of tlie St. Lawrence. In beating between Oormorant Point and Soutli Point, off whicli there is a dangerous reef, keep the ligbt- houMc on Heath Point open of Oormorant Point. Caution. — In moderate weather a vessel will generally gain ground to windward all along the south coast of Anticosti, but care should be taken to avoid being becalmed, near the shore between the SW. and West Points, where both the swell and current set iusliore, and where, the bottom bei?ig of clean flat limestone, an anchor wili not hold. It is by no means uncommon off this part of the coast for the flue weather westerly breeze of summer to die away suddenly to a calm, so that a vessel beating here should stand off shore on the ftrat appearance of a decrease of wind to avoid being driven on shore. Having made the SW. Point, and being 4 or 6 miles off it, with a fair wind, a course should be steered along the coast, so as to pass 8 or 10 miles to the southward and westward of Cape Henry and West Point. N. 08'3 W. will be a safe course at night or in thick weather, when the lead should be hove every hiilf hour. With this precaution there is no danger of being too near the coast, even when the lights can not be seen, since there are soundings in less than 40 fathoms, at a distance varying from 5 to 3 miles off shore all the way from SW. Point to the west end of the island. Anticosti to Point de Monts. — When the vessel has arrived off the West Point of Anticosti, with a fair wind still continuing, a course should be steered well to the northward, especially with northerly winds, say for about Egg Island. She will thus avoid the strength of the cur- rent and the possibility of being set over too near the south shore by its acting on her starboard- bow. When she has run about halfway across she should haul more to the southward so as to insure clearing Point de Monts. Caution.— If the weather be thick, as it commonly is, with a fair wind for running up, great caution is necessary. In such circumstances, after having run within about 15 miles of Point de Monts by the reck- oning, sail should be reduced, so as to have the vessel under complete command, and she should be rounded to, and a good deep cast with Massey's patent lead obtained, so as to insure that she is not to the northeastward of the point, and this should be repeated every half hour, until the light be seen, the fog gun heard, or until it is certain that it is past. If the vessel be to the northeastward of Trinity Bay, soundings will be obtained in less than 60 fathoms, from 4 to 6 miles off shore. Di- rectly off Trinity Bay, there is the same depth 3 miles off shore ; whilst DIRECTIONS. 17 ^DOt ill the a westerly laud of Au- oid the cur- >raiit Point p the light- aiii gronad ) should be e SW. and and where, 9t hold. It Ino weather I, 80 that a mrance of a f it, with a to pass 8 or West Poiut. r, when the there is no can not be a distance ?oiut to the arrived oflF ag, a course lierly winds, 1 of the cur- shore by its f way across ng Point de ii a fair wind Bumstauces, by the reck- er complete ) cast with not to the •y half hour, 'tain that it ndings will shore. Di- lore ; whilst at the same distance oft' Point de .Moats, there is no bottom at 100 fath- cms. If the distance to Point de Monts has been run by the rockoning without finding bottom at 70 fathoms, it will be almost c«»rtrti: at the vessel is not to the northward; but still, as the effects of currents can not be exactly calculateoint, till there remains no doubt of its having been passed. In making the light on Poiut de Monts, renuMubtT that it is not on the extremity of the point, but has been placed (it is thought very im- properly) 14 miles to the northeastward, along the coast towards Trinity Bay. The foregoing remarks apply where the object is to nmke the light- house, or light, on Poiut de Monts, which should always be attempted where there is any ehaiice of success, because it is extreniely desirable to obtain a fresh departure before running ui) the comparatively nar- row estuary. But if. the weather be so thick as to leave no reasonable hope of succeeding, or if the wind be from the southward, a (lourse should be steered more to the southward, so as to pass well clear of the point. Working to Windward.— Vessels beating up against westerly winds should stand over to the northward, as soon as they can weather Anticosti, unless the i)arometer, or other indications, render it probable that the wind will veer to the southward, louring the Hood tides, make short boards off" ami on the north coast, to take advantage of it, for it runs strongest inshore. During the el)b, keep farther oil' the land, for that tide svlso runs strongest near the shore. The tides, in general, are weak along this coast, and a vessel will always make way to windward in moderate weather. From the Seven Islands to Point de Monts is, in general, the easiest part of the passage, for the westerly wind, which, in this i>art, is the most common, is oft' the land, so that a vessel can frequently fetch up to Point de Monts in smooth water, particularly at night, when the wind in tine weather generally veers a point or two to the northward. She will also have the beneftt of the flood tide, whilst the ebb, being turned oft' by Poiut de Monts, is scarely felt. If it blow fresh, and the flood be nearly done on arriving near Point de Monts, there will be no use attempting to beat roun tliese rivers il8t iii-Hhore, ill be t'oiiiid. a whol*-! ebb od IVuiii one >d, and inuHt faster in the irds for beat- on Point de ith the usual .'io-^ w. until half a point 38 with either It or near the ito soundings nd 3 miles off )f the bank. early on the lay, probably, low of saying ' uncertainty, (i met by the the land not the ebb tide ,t she has not jourse may be ickoning, then iiding bottom ivitli the deep- 1 the bank off a bank in that jquette Island isible in clear ted as follows, ^e of the bank e not to go to the southward into less tlian 30 fathoms. When it is judged that the vessel is approaching near Hicquetto, having passed Marnaby ishind, haul out a little to the northward until siie is out of soundings, anil then steer S. fiP VV., still heaving the lead, and having tiie vessel under moderate sail for the purpose of getting bottom, till certain that she is well above the NW. reef of Biccpiette. If soundings are striuik at all, whilst running jiast this dangerous island, on which many vessels have been wrecked, the vessel must be hauled off" immediately to the north- ward out of soundings, and then steer as before. Two miles north of Blccpiette there are 30 fathoms, and only 1\ miles north of the NW. reef there is the same depth, with sandy bottom. Farther otf no bottom will be found at fiO or «0 fatlioms. lioth the island and reef are bold to the northward, having 12 fathoms close to them. When it is quite certain the vessel is past Hicquette and its reefs, haul in to the southward by degrees, till the edge of the bank is gained again, and keep it up to Green Island reef. It would not be prudent for vessels, without a pilot, to attempt run- ning inside of Bic Island in foggy weather, unless well acquainted. If, however, it be necessary to do so, for 'the purpose of anchoring, see directions for that island. Pilots. — Pilots for the St. Lawrence cruise in the^r schooners in the entrance of the river, and during the day these vessels carry a white and red ilag (upper half white, lower half red) ; by night two lights vertically, the upper light white, the lower re 1 ' S» 20 GULF AND KIVKU 8T. LAWKKNCE. seen, t\w oUJwit should alwiiyH h« to Htriko tlio bunk of houiuUiiks along tlio Noiitli eing set over to the lee HJiore, being in consecpience ol»iigoproached by the lead, and an attempt should be made to make the two last, especially Ai)ple Island, which is bold-toon the north side, in order that the position of the vessel may be exactly ascer- '*'WWa!»5K>JE»Sfl«B.« , ,MawiMMwa > |JWIBMi ' .aWB«P ' DIKIU 'TION8. SI idiiiKa liloiig kiul then t'ol- (•(Mirreiicp In Li weather Is H no (laiiitur li of the liiir- fort' tlio v««- itnvtT to tlio iviiul vooring V a^aiii. , 3 or 4 miles KT 8. 06^ VV. i tlie bearing ill onl«'r tlirtt liiiK tlie liRlit Hsel would be I, if the li^'ht- I't a ileep (iast eir east side, iro soiindingB N. 2'>° W. the f 5A miles off bottom being off the south Houth j)ointof le, which can of the hijjher bore, coming off Bersimis lilHcult to be and withoat iiver. reef of Bic- (ug theedgoof both tlood and re to the west- ference to the h an easterly the Kazades, e. They may Id be made to on the north exactly ascer- rained before hauling out into det^p water for the luirpose of eloaring the ilnngeroiiH (heen Islaiiil Iteef. In the eireuniHtances we are hu|)> posing, of an easterly wind with fog in the daytime, it is much nxue safe to attempt to make Apple Island than the lighthouse, since a vessel can appro;i<-li within less than 4(H) yards of the former, but would be ashore befun -the saw the latter if the fog were thick, since the reef exteiuls nearly 1^ miles to the northeastward of it. Having su<;ceeded in making Apple Island, the vohscI may be sheered out to the eilge of the bank of soundings, and us the distance is short, 't is easy tojudge when she is coming near the ;vef, taking, of course, ^he tide into account, whether it be Hood or ebb, ami keeping the lead constantly going. Then, if the lighthouse be not seen, sheer out to the northward into more than .'tU fatlioms water, and shape a course up to> wards the Brandy Pots, according to the tide. If the lighthouse be seen, or the light at night, there is still less diill- culty ill avoiding the reef and regulating the (!ourse afterwards, pro- vided the chart be consulted, the lead used, and the tide considered. But Green Island Heef is extremely dangerous, and is rendered doubly so by the strong tides whi.i.%jmi)mmmummM m l^S^" .•as^i:ivss^ft'iTf-.te'. DIRECTIONS. 33 rds round the vill most read- •e close aboard to a calm, for jouagan Kiver ance to spring t English Bay, 5rn side of the not be seen on cepted by the irs a vessel oft r off Cape St. a safe rule, in )u as the light nto the middle ir either shore, in at the north le weather and if the morning, ind. If it has J a heavy head from along the downward cur- I northerly land ie westward as and westward, directed when ) night will pro- lich usually be- ng at SW., and coast. •obably veer by her good board rienced in read- lutly gain more )able changes of 3 current. n, Bersimis, and at night during itures are suifl- making it out. 2,036 feet above IS the summit of the high land of Bic, 1,234 feet high. Their beatings will often be of great service to vessels in clear nights, and will show when tliey are high enough up to fetch Father Point. On arriving ott" Father Point, or anywhere between it and Bic, if the flood be done and the wind be ligiit it will hh better to anchor on the bank of soundings, weighing again, if there be a breeze, in suflicient time to stand over and meet the lirst of the flood on the north sliore. By this mode of proceeding vessels will gain much more ground to the west- ward than by remaining on the south shore, for although there be a weak stream of flood upon the bank of soundings from Father Point to the Island of Bic, yet there is little above that island, and none after the first quarter flood, excepting so close inshore as to be useless to large vessels. From the Bay of Mille Vaches to within 3 miles of the entrance of the Saguenay River, with the exception of a shoal extending a short distance offshore from the bay next westward of Cape Bondesir, the coast is moderately high and very bold, the flood strong, and the ebb comparatively weak. Vessels should, therefore, make short boards along this shore until up to Bergeron Coves, and then stretcli over to the anchorage under Green Island Reef, to wait for the next flood ; for it will retiuire a whole tide, even with a good working breeze, and a fair sailing merchant vessel, to beat through between Green Island and Red Islet, and reach good anchorage above, before the ebb makes. Red Islet Bank is, however, very dangerous, and the first of the flood sets strongly over it, in a direction from Bergeron Coves towards Green Island. The ebb out of the Saguenay also sets upon it, so that a stran- ger should not make too free with it. If a vessel can not fetch the anchorage under Green Island Reef, she may anchor anywhere, in fine weather, along the south bank between Bic and Green Island, and will have good ground in 12 fathoms at low water, and plenty of room to get under weigh. In coming up with a NW. wind, the north shore should be kept close aboard until up to Bergeron, and if it be flood tide, the vessel may pass either northward or southwanl of Red Islet, as may be preferred, but the former passage should not be attempted with this wind during the ebb, nor yet the other, except by those who are well acquainted with the set of the tides. Although the passage to the northward of Red Islet is the quickest, there being a much stronger stream of flood in that channel, yet it can not by any means be recommended; on the contrary, it should never be attempted unless the breeze appears certain to continue, for if it fell calm the vessel would run great risk of being drawn in by the stream of flood among the ?langerou8 shoals off the mouth of the Saguenay, or being set down upon Red Islet Bank when the rapid ebb made out of that river, which is so strong and the water so deep that no anchor would hold. 1 «^*^?^^^^?^r!^?!!rr*~ "" " ' 24 GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. ! V To pass to the southward of Red Islet with the same wind, haul round the east end of the reef, and as close to the southward of it as is prudent, coming no nearer than a depth of 20 fathoms until past the islet. To those who are well acquainted both with the soundings and set of the tides it maybe desirable to keep closer in attemptiug the passage with an ebb tide but it can not be recommended to strangers. Directions down the Estuary and O-ulf.— For the return voyage down the estuary and gulf little or no instruction seems necessary as long as the wind remains fair and the weather clear, beyond what may be gathered Irom the charts and the preceding remarks. But where vessels are met by easterly winds and thick weather anywhere above Point de Monts, great caution, attention to the soundings and set of the tides and currents, become necessary to insure safety, particularly during the long nights and wild weather in the fall of the year. Vessels beating down the St. Lawrence usually stop at the Brandy Pots for a fair wind. But supposing, after they have passed Greeu Island, that the fair wind fails, and they are met with an easterly wind before they have arrived near the Island of Bic, they should, in that case, run up again to the Brandy Pots, especially if late, or very early in the navigable season ; for all that they will gain by beating about in thick weather, probably for several days and nights in succession, will not be worth the risk. But if they have reached farenough down at the commencement of the adverse wind, the Island of Bic aifords good shelter and anchorage, which should be sought in time, before ti«e fog commences. There is no other anchorage which can be recommended lower down nearer than the Seven Islands, and after that Gasp^. There are other places, which will be mentioned hereafter, in some of which vessels ride for taking in timber; but such places are not fit for occasional anchor- ages, or for a heavy laden ship to run for on an emergency. In a vessel beating down, the south bank should be the guide in thick weather or at night. She should tack from it, after striking soundings on its edge, and should not stand to the northward more than lialf-chan- nel over in any part ; thus keeping in the strength of the downward current, and avoiding the possibility of accident from the shoals of the north coast, which being very steep, and affording little or no warning by the lead, have proved fatal to many vessels under these circuni. stances. Effects of Tides. — It will be almost always seen, when the vessel comes upon the south bank of soundings, by there being so much less sea there than in the deep water, and strength of the weather current, outside; a strong ripple will be observed at the edge of the bank dur- ing the flood tide. In the board from near Blcquette, during the flood tide, the vessel will go to the northward rather faster than to the southward bt«ck again, whilst in the ebb the contra • will be the case. But ^bove Razade iBtim-iimnimltigamfT: ■ ' i.Jf.KUM■.% ' l!":J^ 'i^ ^:,-:,-^i^ '.r ;> ■■ .-im -i^ i. DIRECTIONS. m , buul rouud J is prudent, le islet. To (I set of the assage with turn voyage necessary as d what may But where Inhere above 3 and set of particularly year. the Brandy issed Green isterly wind »uld, in that >r very early ing about in icessiou, will igh down at aObrds good Bfore tiie fog lower down sre are other vessels ride onal auchor- uide in thick ig soundings m iialf-chan- le downward shoals of the • no warning hese circuni. m the vessel so much less ther current, lie bank dur- le, the vessel I buck .again, 3ove Razade Islets she will go much faster lo the southward than to the northward in both tides. Lower down the estuary, and as far down as (Jape 3l. Anne, she will generally go faster to the southward than to the north- ward during the ebb tide; whilst in the Hood an iuilraft into the rivers will be felt on approaching near the north coast from Bersimis Point nearly down to Cape St. Nicholas. The least reflection upon what has been previously said of the set of the tides and currents will account for these eftects. Caution. — In a vessel beating down in a dark night or thick weather there is no safety unless the lead be kept constantly* going; when she M approaching the south coast, in the board to the southward, sail should be sufficiently reduced for soundings to be easily obtained and every- thing iu readiness to tack or veer at the shortest notice. These pre- cautions become the more necessary as the vessel descends the estuary and the bank of soundings becomes narrower. Off Matane there are 30 fathoms, sat\dy bottom, I^ miles offshore ; and 60 fathoms at 3 miles off, whilst at the distance of 5 miles from the land no bottom will be found at 100 fathoms. The south bank becomes narrower still to the eastward of Matane, and cease^s, in consequence, to be of use to vessels. Off Gape Chatte there are 30 fathoms water little more than ^ a mile from the shore; a short distance farther off' there are no soundings at 70 fathoms ; and between it and the Point de Monts, from 150 to 170 fathoms, blue mud bottom. Below Point de Monts there is plenty of sea room, and although the lead will there be of little use, yet the south coast is so high and bold that it may generally be seen, if the fog be no thicker than is usual with a regular easterly wind up i:he St. Lawrence. Lower down still, with a beating wind and thick weather, soundings may be struck off the west end of Anticosti, or between the west and SW. Points of that island, if it be wished to ascertain how far the vessel is over to the northward before night. Eastward of the SW. Point of Anticosti to Pavilion River the bank of soundings oft' the south side of the island is very narrow ; but from the latter to the East Point there is plenty of warning by the deep-sea leaii, as will be seen by the i^ound- ings in the chart. The channel to the northward of Anticosti can not be recommended in the voyage down the St. Lawrence, because there is not only less room, but also less current in favor ; neither the route by the Strait of Belle I.«ile, on account of the straggling icebergs, which are iu general to be met with there through all the navigable season. Towards the fall of the year, however, vessels occasionally pass through it, in antici- pation oc the northerly winds which prevail at that season in the Atlantic. Systen?. of buoyage. — Approaching from seaward, all buoys on the starboard side of the channel are painted red, and, if numbered, marked with even numbers, and must be left on the starboard hand. 7-^- t ■ 26 GULF AND RIVEK ST. LAWRENCE. i Approaching from seaward, all buoys on the port side are painted black, witli odd numbers, if any, and must be left on the port hand. Buoys painted red and black, in horizontal bands, mark obstructions or middle grounds, and may be left on either hand. Buoys painted white and black in vertical stripes mark mid-channel, and must be passed close to, to avoid danger. All other distinguishing marks to buoys are in addition to the fore- going, and indicate particular spots; a thou8e Scut Invest Point Lighthouse ... West Point Litthtlionse Cape d'Kspoir LiKlithoiige Point Mavquureau Lij;ht-honge . Point (1e Uonta LiKbthouau SigoaU in nse. ...do .. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do.. ...do. ...do .. Maniconagan Telegraph Station |...do Purtneuf Lighthouse ...do Cape Rosier Lighthouse l..,do Fame Point Ughtliouse L. do Cape Maedalen Lightliouse i...do j Martin Kiver Lighthouse j.. do i Cape (;hatte Liglitlionse |...do Matane Liglithouse ....do Little Metis LighthouKe |...do Father Point Liglithouse i...do Brandy I'ots Lighthouse I Semaphore I ami ilagg. Riviere dn Loup Lighthouse .do L'Islet Telegrapli Ottico | Flags Escuininao Point i.. do Meat Cove Telegraph Office, near Cape St. .. do Lawrence. Flat (Low) Point Lighthouse i...do Situation. Magdalen Islands. Do' Anticoiiti Island. 1)0. Do. Do. Western shore, Gulf of St. Lawrence. Du. Northern shore of river and Gulf of St. Lawrence. Do. Do. Southern shore of river and Gulf of St. Lawrence. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. • Do. Do. New Brunswick. Cape Breton Island. .Do. 1. Vessels exhibiting their distinctive numbers will have their names transmitted to the local press (for publication only), free of charge. 2. Dispatches to or from vessels within signaling distance, by the international code of all nations, either by flags or semaphores, will be duly delivered as addressed. 3. Dispatches will be charged for at the ordinary telegraph rates, cs, will, in always be s aud other )n8 of the er St. Law operation y'Tl.av.'w.i^t-jiPi-mi'lifeaS-,' ■ , r-. :„<■-■... :--.^J--^-,.y'ji<.^^-.. J , BUOYAGE SIGNAL STATIONS. re painted t hand, istructions d-channel, o the fore- ) of which' oys, be at hand they between stations ; but no charge will be made for signaling between coast stations and vessels at sea. 4. Dispatches may (by special re(iuest) be delivered in cipher, other- wise tliey will be transmitted in ordinary language. 5. Vessels may obtain information as to winds, weather, and ice at any signal station within the Gulf of 8r. Lawrence yV<'e of charge. 6. The stations on Anticosti, Amherst, Grosse Isle, and St. Paul Is- lands, at Meat Oove and Cape Kay are kept specially informed respiMit- ing the state of navigation in the river and gulf of St. Lawrence dur- ing the mouths of April and May. . Lawrence, tnd Gulf of St. ind Gulf of St. heir names harge. ce, by the ■es, will be aph rates, J CHAPTER II. ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. St. Paul Island, lying in tbe main entrance to the Gulf of St. Law- rence, between tbc SW. extreme of Newfoundland and the north ex- treme of Cape Breton Island, ia composed of granitic rocks, dipping at an angle of not less than 45° to the southward. It is nearly 3 miles long, by one mile broad. Its NE. point is a small detached islet, sepa- rated by a very narrow channel from a peninsula, the whole so precipi- tous as to be nearly inaccessible. The remaining greater part of the island, which is also i)recipitous towards the sea, has two parallel ranges of hills, that on the eastern coast being the higher. Two small lakes or ponds supply the principal stream on the island, which is of yellowish brown water, well-tasted and wholesome, and de- scending into the sea in the southern part of Trinity Cove. There are several other, but much smaller, runs of water, one of which is into At- lantic Cove. These coves afford the only 'shelter for boats, and the only good lauding on the island, which is easier of ascent from them than at any other part. Supplies.— Tbe island is partially wooded with dwarf and scrubby spruce trees, useless except for fuel. The only inhabitants are two men in charge of a depot of provisions for tbe relief of shipwrecked persons, supported by tbe government of New Brunswick. These men reside on the north point of Trinity Cove, where there is a dwelling bouse and store. A few foxes are the only wild animals upon the island j there is no feathered game, or anything else to support life. A Boat is kept on tbe island. Anchorage.— Off Trinity and Atlantic Coves small fishing schooners anchor, with the wind off shore, in 10 or 12 fathoms, sand and gravel bottom, and at the distance of 400 yards from the rocks. In very fine weather large vessels might venture to ride in from 25 to 30 fathoms, about ^ mile off shore, but should be in constant readiness to weigh at the first sign of a change in the wind or weather. There is little or no warningby the lead in approaching this island in foggy weather. On this account, although so bold and high, it is extremely dangerous, and many shipwrecks, attended with sacrifice of human life, have taken place upon its shores. Tbe irregularity of tbe tidal streams and currents add much to the danger arising from tbe fogs, which prevail in southerly, easterly, and often also with SW. winds. During the whole of a fine calm day at the : I "^-wl aHss!caw»!"*" ' lau^' r '*»Aa,wt,timM^:^tti^<,, -^: ■.^■. . BIRD ROCKS — BRYON ISLAND. 8^ end of June, the current set to the SB, at the rate of one knot past the north point of the island. Bird Rocks of coarse red sandstone, in strata dipping very slightly to the SW., are constantly diminishing in size from the action of the sea. They present perpendicular dirt's on every side, yet it is possible to ascend them with great difficulty in one or two i)liices, but there is no landing upon them except in the calmest sea. Every ledge and fissure of the cliffs is occupied by gannets. The white i)lumage of these birds gives these rocks the appearance of being capped witli snow, and renders them visible through a night glass in a moonlight night from the distance of 7 or S miles. The two rocks are about '^ mile apart. Sunken rocks leave only a boat passage between them. The southeastern most is the larger and higher, though scarcely 400 yards long, and not more than 140 feet higli above the sea. The otiier is divided into two precipitous mouiuls Joined together by a low ledge. The lesser of these mounds resembles a tower. A reef extends about .^ mile to the eastward, from the Little or NVV. Bird Rock, and there is a patch of breakers nearly midway between the two, and rather to the SVV. of the line drawn from one to tlie other. The Great or SE. Bird Rock is quite bold, excepting in the direction of the other rock. Caution.— Between the Bird Rocks and Bryron Island there is a ridge of rocky and foul ground, on some parts of which, it has been said, there is as little as 4 fathoms water, because bottom has been seen in calm weather. Nothing, however, less than 7 fathoms could be found ; but it may nevertheless exist, so that a vessel of large draft had better not cross this ridge when there is much sea running. The two cliffy points on the north side of Bryon Island, in line, mark the northern limits of it. Bryon Island, which is uninhabited, is about 4 miles long, with the extreme breadth of rather more than a mile. There was no opportu- nity of measuring the height of Bryon Island, but it nowhere exceeds 200 feet above the sea. The cliff's on the north side are much higher than those on the south, where there are several small coves in which boats may land easily with the wind oflf shore. The island is formed of alternating and nearly horizontal strata of red sandstone, red ocherous clay, and shaley gray sandstone. The rocks are soft and friable, forming perpendicular or overhanging cliffs nearly all around the island, which are broken in holes and cav- erns, snowing how fast they are giving way to the action of the waves. A great part of the island is wooded with dwarf spruce trees, and there is a large upland tract covered with good native grass. Water.— Water may be had in small quantities by digging, and there is a spring on the north side of the narrow isthmus which joins the eastern peninsula to the remainder of the land. Reefs.— There are three reefs off' Bryon Island. One oflf its east end 30 ISLANDS IN GULF ST. LAWRENCE. exteiuls nearly 1^ of a mile to the nor tbeast ward; another off the west end extends 1^ miles to the westward; and tlie third, off the sandy SW. point, 1(1 miles to the southward. No marks can bo given for clearing these reefs, but the bearings of the land will aftbrd suiTicient guidance to the seamen. The reef otf the S W. point obstructs the chan- nel so much that it may be useful to add, that from the southern ridge of this reef Hryou Island subtends an angle of 07°, so that with the island subtending any less angle the reef may be passed. The south reef assists greatly in turning off the sea from tlic roadstead to the eastward of it, where vessels may safely anchor in 6 fathoms water and a sandy bottom, at the distance of a mile or more from the shore, and with all winds from the northward. Small vessels during NW. gales lie at anchor close under the reef. ShoaL — There is an extensive patch of foul and rocky ground lying 8. 41° W. from the west end of Bryon Island, and having a clear chan- nel on either side of it. Not less than 6 fathoms could be found here, and although the tishermen see bottom upon it in calm weather, there is every reason to think that there is no less water. Nevertheless, ves- sels of large draft had better not run over it when there is a heavy sea running, for a small point of rock, with a few feet less water, might escape the most rigorous examination. Fishing Grounds. — The rocky places are called fishing grounds by the inhabitants of Magdalen Islands, because codfish abound upon them. There is one having 11 fathoms water, 2| miles north of Bryon Island, and which extends a considerable distance parallel to the island. There is sandy bottom, and a great depth of water within this ridge, and vessels may anchor in fine weather and southerly winds, off the bay on the north side of the island. The soundings extend so far off Bryon Island to seaward in every direction, that there is no possibility of a vessel on a voyage being endangered by it if the lead be used. Great caution is requisite in approaching the reefs, for they are very steep, especially that which extends to the southward. Magdalen Islands. — This chain of islands assume an irregular curved direction, the greatest length of which, from the SW. cape of Amherst Island to East Point, is 35 miles. The central parts of these islands rise into hills, with rounded and frequently dome-shaped summits, and which are in general of igneous or trap rocks. No rock salt has been found upon the islands, but the water of many springs and small streams is sufficiently saline to be nearly unfit for use. Gypsum forms an article of commerce, and some valuable oclierous pigments are also found upon the islands, but the principal dependence of the inhabitants is upon the codfishery. The herring and seal fisheries are also prosecuted to a limited extent. The islands are partially wooded, but the trees are small, and mostly spruce, juniper, birch, and Canadian poplar. The unwooded parts produce good grass, and afford pasturage for cattle and sheep. j|ijnyjii i BW,'i-J!.UMJ!.ni .■a'i, i ..jiJ i , ' Hju i j,ULnmi i j!jj •aawseeg gjoi: :; ^^^fe^tg^.. :^^^ MA(»DALEN ISLANDS. ft the west he sandy given for Hufflcient \ the chan- tern ridge b with the south reef I eastward d a sandy II with all lies lie at und lying lear chan- »und here, her, there eless, ves- heavy sea ter, might rounds by and upon of Bryon ;he island, his ridge, is, oflf the so far off [)ossibility I be used, r are very irregular N. cape of luded and )f igneous 8, but the line to be and some 3, but the ery. The ent. The ly spruce, 3 produce The climate is severe; not quite so coM as at Quebec in winter, but less warm in surunier. Rains, and especially fogs, are extrt-MU'Iv fre- quent, and without this liumid atmosphere the islands would be deprived of the little fertility which they possess, the dry and meager soil requir- ing continual supplies of nwh famdies divided between Entry Island, Grosse Isle, and East isluuf near the NB. extremity of the chain. ' Seals.— During the spring of the year the fishermen leave the islands for seal hunting on the ice of the gulf. Tliousands of seals which are dnven on the ice to the shores of the islands by winds are kille«l by the inhabitants. Seals are also taken by means of nets in PieasantBay Supplies.— Vessels may obtain limited supplies of fresh provisions especially at Entry Island, and water most readily from Amherst Har' bor, either from a spring which issues from under Demoiselle Hill or from a small stream which falls into A use A la Cabane, near the SW cape of the island. Wood for fuel is becoming scarce near the set" tlements. Large spars are not to be had, unless when they chance to be saved from wrecks, but small ones, of spruce and juniper may be obtained. The latter, of which the inhabitants build their flshinff boats and shallops or small schooners, somewhat resembles larch wood • It IS said to be extremely strong and durable. ' East Point is of low sand, inclosing several shallow ponds, and hav ing several sand hills, some of which are near its extremity while others, of greater elevation and farther to the westward, extend in a Cham near y to the IfB. Cape. These last-mentioned sand hills are Th "t?;*^ """ *^^ "''''^'" ^^ "'* "ortheastem part of the great lagoon. The NE. Cape is a hill at the head of Grand Entry Harbor; it can be seen oyer all the sand hills and sand bars, and at a distant appears to be the eastern extremity of the chain. i.j8SSf ■;?.'"'';'' 32 ISLANDS IN GULF ST. LAWRENCE. Loog Spit.— A ridgu of aand, with 2 to 3 fatlioma water, extcndfi S. (50^ E. rather more than li miles ot!' East Point, and for i\ miles far- ther in the same direction the deptii is from 4 to fathoms. To clear this spit the north side of the peninsula on the south shore of Oyster Pond, in line with Old Harry Head, beariuK S. ()1° VV., will lead over it in 4 fathoms. North Cape in line with the east side of NE. Capo leads nearly A mile to the south westward, a mark which will he useful to a vessel approachiuf; it from the westward. This shoal is extremely- dangerous, as tlie thles set rapi«lly over it and cause a heavy breaking sea. Doyle Reef,lyinK S. 7(P E. from East Point, isvery small, being only (iOO yanls liinj,' and 100 yards wide, with a depth of (> fathoms on each side of it. The least water is 3 fathoms on one spot, nearly in the cen- ter, and there is deej) water all around it. The only nuirk for it is Xortli Cape, open twothinis of its breadth to the ME. of NE. Cape. This reef seldom shows, as the sea breaks upon it only in heavy gales. Old Harry Head, tlie SE. ixnnt of Cot!ln Island, Is formed of red sandstone clilVs of moderate height, with a reef otf it i\ mile to the SE. Between it and East Point is Saudy Hay,, in which vessels may anchor, witli good shelter, in all winds from west, round by north to NE. ; but it is nf)t a place to be recommended, because a vessel would be there very much embayed by the shoals on either side, and might find it ditB- (!ult to get out on the occurrence of a sudden shift of wind, cither at night or during a fog. Columbine Shoals consist of numerous small ]>atches and ])ointed rocks, on some of which there is not more than 3 feet at low water. NE. Cape, well open of Old Harry Head, bearing N. 11° W., will lead clear of the outermost of the shoals. There is no good mark for clearing the west side. On the outer edge ol these shoals the angle between Old Harry Head and the west extremity of Coffin Island is 77°. Coffin Island has on its south side a lagoon with a very narrow out- let, named the Oyster I'ond, and which boats can only enter in fine weather. Off the coast of the island there are several rocks, besides Columbine Shoals, but they are inshore, and out ot the way of vessels. Grand Entry Harbor has its entrance between theSW. end of Cotfiu Island and the sand bars to the westward of it, and has water enough within it for large vessels ; but its entrance is extremely narrow, not exceeding 100 yards in breadth, between sandy shoals which are said to shift. A native pilot should be emjjloyed, or the channel buoyed or staked, and even then the entrance should not be attempted except, in? in fine weather. The depth that can be carried in, at spring tides, is 13 feet. The tides run with great rapidity. There are no settle. ments at the harbor, but there are a few families in the vicinity of the NE. Cape who Iweed cattle. Within this harbor there isa iargeex|)an8eof water, extending north- eastward to the southern shores of Grosse Isle, and communicating by .p)JU4.i i .iu i wi i nimigi,,..»,Ha.!i. '- CAPE ALKIOUT — MKULK ROCKH. 88 XtOIulH S. miles far- To clear jf Oyster ad over it NE. Cape he iiReful uxtremely breaking x'ingouly IB on each II the cen- L for it is NE. Cape, avy gales, led of red to tlie SE. i»y anchor, NE. ; but il be there iiid it dilfi- , either at 1(1 pointed low water. , will lead mark for the angle and is 77°. arrow cut- ter in fine {8, besides of vessels. idofOotfin er enough arrow, not are said lel buoyed ;ed except, ring tides, no settle- lity of the ling north- icating by a narrow ehannel with a large shallow pond, enstwiinf of the NE. Cape. It also exteiiils southwestward, between a double line of sand bars, to the eastern shores of (iriiidstone Island. There are three entrances from the sea; namely, (irand Entry Harbor; another 3A iiiiles to the westward, which is very shallow; and House Harbor, near its SW. extremity, between Alright and Orindstone Islands. Shag Island is small and low, and lies about A mile from the sand bars, nearly midway between Cotllii and Alright islands. Cape Alright is the southern point of Alright iKlnixI. The clitt's, of a grayish white color, with occasional brick-red low down, are 400 feet high at the highest part, which is about a mile to the eastward of the cape, and those to the westward of the cape, towards House Harbor? are also very high and of the same color. Nearly a mile inland is the summit of Alright Island. lietween this summit and the cajie there is a hill named Itutte Konde. The south extremity of the cape is low, with a small rock close oft' it. Alright Reef, the outer edge of which lies N. 72° E., 3^ miles from Cape Alright, is 800 yards long by 600 yards wide, and is composed of white and pointed rocks, with 6 feet least water. When on this reef the Butte Konde is in one with the summit of Grludstone Island; the west side of Cape Alright is in line with the west side of Cape Meule, and the whole of the woody Wolf Island is Just open to the westward of Shag Ik. ind. The well-rnarked summit of Grindstone Island, ojieii to the south westward of Cape Alright, will lead to the 8W., and the east side of the woods of Wolf Island (seen over the sand bars), open to the eastward of Shag Island, will lead to the SE. Pearl Reef is of white pointed rocks, like most of the reefs around these islands. It is round and about 400 yards in diameter, with feet least water; and even with a moderate swell the sea breaks heavily upon it. From the reef Cape Alright bears N. 06° W., 8J miles j the NB. point of Entry Island S. 53° W., 4^ miles. The Demoiselle Hill, shut in behind the north side of Entry Island, S. 66° W., will lead to the southward ; and the Demoiselle, kept more than halt a point open to the northward of Entry Island will lead to the northward. House Harbor is distant 2^ miles to the NW. from Cape Alright. Its entrance is a narrow and crooked channel, carrying only 6 feet at low water. Meule Rocks, extending } mile seaward of Cape Meule, are marked on their outer extremity by a red buoy moored in 14 feet water 100 yards N. 86° E. from a 6-foot patch. Nearly midway between the bay and Cape Meule there is a channel having 18 feet water, but this should not be used in rough weather. Red Cape is the SE. point of Grindstone Island and the north point of Pleasant Bay. The opposite point of the bay, Sandy Hook, is the east point of Amherst Island, and bears from the Red Cape S. 40° 5489 3 -.' .jU ' iJ ^ UCJ.idii r .'- ■:j-'S'iMi^: ' * .,.,.-.■. ' II \ I 5 ' V. , ii' 11 ; H; li IMLANUH IN GULP ST. LAWRENCE. E., 6 inil«8. From thii* lino to tlie Hbore uf Auiberat ImIhihI, at the hettd ot'thvi Imy, tlio diHtaiiKe In 4,^ miloH. Q-rindatone Island iH tlie Hecuiul larg«>Ht of tlio chain, being, in tliiH reHpect, int«rnie«twe«n Ainhei'Mt and Alrigtit IslandH. Itm Kimi- init Ih 65(1 foet above tliu Hea. Amherst Island, the larguHt sinl Houth\vi'8tt>rnnioHr of tlui Magila- Ion iHlandH, is connoctod witli Grindstono iHliind by a doiiblo lino of sand Imiih, incloHing an oxttMiHlvo lajjoon from one to 3 milt'n win is full of IMoHHiint fei'f water ;h tliu 8iUHl , and when gilt of 560 the conical ivard of the ' point with ■ any in the 1 excellent of running )ened to 13 ;ed, so that There are jlack mud, iland8, ami during the In thoae endanger a ve once in 1 NB. gales, 4 fathoms S. 27° W., ri the sandy ihor farther F red sandy ih lessened he attempt Lugust, will ands, has a Hook Flat ere are sev- AMHERST ISLAND— ENTRY FfiLAND. 35 eral rocky patchen of 2* falhon.H off the HW. point ot Entry Island reaching to f u 1 v i mile fron. the shore. The el.h tide sets Htrr'ngly hrough this <,l,annel an.l over San.ly Flook Flat, so that vessels ..f larue draft should go round to the eastward of Kntry Island Sand.N Hook (,hannel by a good pilot, hut 3i fathoms is the utmost that can >'« HHh>Iv reckoned on by a stranger. Off the NK. en.l of HauiW Hook Shoal, which is steep-to, a re.l btn.y is „,„ore.l in T, fathoms ' To run through Sandy Hook Channel from the southward keep'tl.e east snie ol Alnght Island ust op..,, to the westward of N W. spit, u, t^d :!!zz:::'i::.r'-'"''''^-^^^^^'-^ th^su,..,ie , ^"*Zw"^""^'' ^'"^ '''*'''""^ "'^ ^'"" ^^"»f«'"l«''« Islands, its sunnnit bemg 5s,Meet above the sea at high water; the red clitVs .'ising TJ the ni-'.r'in "■"*-"'' "*■ •''"'' '■""^' ""•' ''' *'"' «•»"»•' Po'-'t to 400 f,.et. O the Nh. ,,o,„t the,e is the High F{o<,k, about 100 y«,,|s from the - Ills ami on ,t« north side the Tower Rock, of red sandst.nu,, joined to the island, ami whic'- can be seen from the S\V. over the low WV point. ^1 »» . Supplies.-The inhabitants of Kntry Island raise cattle and sheen, depending mo.., upon the sale of fresh pn.visions than the fisheries Vessels may, therefore, almost always obtain supplies. Anchorage.-\'essels generally anchor under Entry Island in north'- erly and easterly winds, but it is rough riding. The best anchorage ia easterly winds ,s in Sandy Hook Channel, under the NVV. spit i„ 5 fathoms, sand. ' , m 1/ iuf^w^'~^f1"^ "" 7?^' '"'*"''"''' '" ^'"''^y "«°k Channel and ofl the SW. point of Entry Island, there are others off the south and SE. sides, extending i mile offshore. Andromache Rocks are several mere points of rock with deei) ' water between them, extending * mile off the NE. point of Entry «.„!^,?^f''** ^«/«"d— The south coast of A.nherst Island, consisting of sand hiUs and beaches, curves round to the westward, for 6 or 7 miles ^ifUuT'T^ 1 '^' ''^'""' '"'•"'^ "^^""•^'^ '''^'^y ^^'^'^ the island to w.thin less than ^ mile of Pleasant Bay. The basi,. is now so nearly closed w,th sand that boats can only enter at high water and in the finest weather. There is good anchorage off the entrance, in from 6 to fathoms, sandy bottom. A mile and a half to the westward of the entrance of the basin c itts commence and continue, except in Oabane Bay, to the West Cape which is the highest cliff of Amherst Island, its' summit ZTg cJUO feet above the sea. * C.f"r!f V*, ^^?*f^* '' " '"'^" ^'^''^' ''^^^««" "'« '^o^th and SW. er^vT/ T r* ?''f °''' ''^'''^ ''^''^^' "'"^ '■■'''^y '-^"^hor with north- erly and easterly winds, and where good water may easily be obtained. " HP*- 86 ISLANDS IN GULF ST. LAWRENCE. "'i ' . -v.. The best berth is in 8 or 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, off the center of the bay, ^ mile off shore. beadman Islet, bearing N. 70° VV., I'i miles from the West (Jape of the Magdalen Islands, is small, being not more than 600 yards long, and less than half that in breadth. It is about 170 feet high, with steeply sloping sides, meeting at the summit like a prism, so that when seen end on it resembles a pyramid. On the west side a vessel may pass within the distance of 400 yards with safety, but a reef extends J mile oft" the east side. There is no dunger nearer than the White Horse. At niglit or in foggy weather the lead will give little warning. O-ull Island.— From the West Cape of Amherst Island the re. mainderof the sea coast of Amherst Island consists of red cliffs, with, out beach, all the way to West Lake, a small pond at the SW. end of the sand bars, which joins Amherst and Grindstone Islands. At the NE. extremity of these sand bars is Gull Islet, which is small, rocky, and close to the western point of Grindstone Island, and has shoal water off its west point to the distance of i mile. About IJ miles to the SW. of it, and with the west side of Gull Islet and Gros Cap in line, lies a rocky shoal with 3 fathoms at low water, and leav- ing no good passage between it and the shore. Close to the NE. of Gull Island is the Etang du Nord, a small inlet, affording good shelter to boats. Hospital Rock.— The northern shore of Grindstone Island is of red sandstone cliffs, less high than those of Amherst Island. Near their NE. extreme lies Bospital Rock, close to the shore, and also some rocky 3-fathom patches, more than J mile from the shore. White Horse is the uame of a dangerous reef, lying N. 36° E., 7 miles from Deadman Islet, and west 5 J miles from Gull Islet. It is scarcely more than 200 yards in diameter, and has 9 feet least water over pointed rocks, on which the sea often breaks. Ou this reef the sum- mit of Entry Island is seen over a low part of the sand bars, at the NE. outlet of Basque Harbor, but this mark can not be easily discerned by a stranger. When on the reef the western extremity of Amherst Island and Hospital Cape subtend an angle of 91° 30'. Pierre de Gros Cap, another dangerous reef of rocks, nearly of the same size as the White Horse, and having 18 feet least water, is seldom seen, as the sea breaks upon it only in very heavy weather. It lies N. 58° W., 3% miles off" Cape le Trou, the nearest point of Grind- stone Island. Wolf Island.— From Hospital Cape to Wolf Island, the northern coast of the Magdalen Islands, con.sist merely of sand beaches and sand hills for a distance of 9 or 10 miles. The low sandstone cliffs of Wolf Island, which is about J mile long, interrupt the continuance of the sandy shore for only ^ mile ; the sand beaches then recommence and continue with high sand hills to the North Cape. L DIRECTIONS — TIDES. 37 enter of the West (Jape yards long, higli, with that when vessel may eef extends 1 the White :le warning, ind the re. clitts, with. 10 SW. end stands. At cb is small, nd, and has About 1^ )t and Gros r, and leav- ) the NE. of ^ood shelter and is of red Near their ) some rocky N. 360 E., 7 Islet. It is ; least water reef the sum- bars, at the ily discerned Island and IS, nearly of ast water, is weather. It nt of Grind- ;he northern les and sand jliffs of Wolf uance of the tmmence and North Cape. — The north coast of Magdalen Islands continues from the North Cape, a precipice of considerable height, in a curved line of sand beaches and sand hills as far as Bast Point. North Cape Rocks, some of which always show, lie to the west- ward of North Cape, the outermost being 1,200 yards offshore. Water may be had in small quantities near the houses on the east side of the North Cape. Anchorage. — To the eastward of North Cape vessels inay ride in 8 or 9 fathoms, over sandy bottom, with all southerly winds, with good holding ground. • Directions.— Entry Island, when tirst made from the eastward, will appear like a double-peaked hill, siloping somewhat abruptly down to perpendicular and liigh cliffs on either side. The S W. point of Amherst Island is also a steep cliff", but of less height, and as there is no land to the southward and westward of it, it can not be mistaken. The land rises from it in undulations to the higher parts of the island. The general soundings around Magdalen Islands will afford an in- valuable assistance to vessels at night or in foggy weather, and will be better understood from the charts than by any written directions. Tides. — The tidal streams or currents around Magdalen Islands are so irregular that the most experienced and intelligent pilots ior the islands, who are also fishermen, and have passed their lives in fishing craft around them, can give no certain account of their rate and direc- tion, but all agree in stating that they vary in both respects, either from the effects of winds, or other and unknown causes. Nevertheless, the following observations will hold good as a general rule, and although Subject to occasional interruption, the set of the tidal streams about to be described will be found to recur with considerable constancy in tine weather. A few miles outside Bryou Island and Bird Rocks there ai)pears to be usually a current setting to the southeastward, out of the gulf of St. Lawrence ; but the stream of flood tide flows between them and Magdalen Islands. The stream of flood comes from the SE,, and is divided by the east point of Magdalen Islands. One branch of the stream sets strongly over the Long Spit, which, with Old Harry Head and the shoals off' it, turn it off" to the southwestward towards Entry Island, leaving nearly slack water in the bay between Coffin Island and Cape Alright, and also in Pleasant Bay. The other branch, to the northward of the islands, follows the shore from East Point round to the SW. Cape of Amherst Island, whence the greater part of the stream continues its course to the SW. ; whilst the remainder, following the shore, runs round and along the southern coast of Amherst Island, until it meets the before-mentioned other branch of the stream from the East point, setting off the east side of Entry Island. It is overcome by this other branch, and turned gradually round to join the general weak stream of flood to the westward in the offing. 38 ISLANDS IN GULF ST. LAWRENCE. I. On the SE. side of the islands the stream of the ebb tide sets strongly out of the lagoons and out of Pleasant Bay, between the Sandy Hook and Entry Island. It is also often found running to the westward along the southern shores of Amherst Island, and right round it in like manner, but contrary in direction, to the course of the flood already described. In the offing, at the same time, the stream of ebb is from the SW., and sets over the Long Spit oflf the east point, where it meets the stream from the NW., which has followed the north shore of the islands, round from Amberst Island to the east point. The meeting of these two streams of the ebb tide, together with the shoalness of the water, causes so heavy a breaking sea in strong easterly winds that the fishing shallops dare not venture at times to pass the point. The rate of either stream seldom amounts to a knot, excepting close in shore, or round the points. The ebb, however, is generally the strongest stream, and its rate is increased by westerly winds, as is that of the flood by winds from the eastward. Anticosti Island is 122 miles long and 30 miles in extreme breadth. Its shores are everywhere of rock, affording in some parts excellent building stone, of which the two lighthouses have been constructed. On and near the coasts the limestone is covered with a thick and often impenetrable forest of dwarf spruce, which, in some exposed situations, is only a few feet in height, with gnarled branches, so twisted and matted together that a man may walk for a considerable distance on their summits. Extensive banks of limestone shingle, bush-swamps, morasses, and also beds of peat are of common occurrence. Anticosti ie nowhere higher than 700 feet above the sea. Its south coast is low and shelving, with reefs of flat limestone which dry at low water. There is, however, a range of highlands in rear of the S W. point, and extending for some miles both to the northwestward and southeast- ward of it. The north coast, for 70 or 80 miles to the westward of the East cape, is bold, precipitous, and of considerable elevation. The head- lands end in magnificent cliffs of limestone, which are externally so nearly white from the effects of the weather as to resemble cbalk. The remainder of the north coast is low, with reefs of flat limestone, like the southern shores. Harbors.— It is unusual to find an island so large as Anticosti with- out a good harbor ; the best are only suitable for vessels drawing 10 to 15 feet. Limestone coasts are in general characterized by deep inlets and bays and detached islets and rocks, but nothing of the kind will be found here, and there is not a single detached shoal off any part of the coasts. Coasts. — The coasts of this island have been generally believed to be extremely dangerous. The reefs of flat limestone, extending in some parts to 1 J miles from the shore, the want of anchorage off most parts of the coast, and above all the frequent fogs, justify this belief in part, but not in so great a degree as to render reasonable the dread with n i;afeag!a^&femJAte«MUJWtd«a^^ -■^■■^•"'l'*"-''^-'^ ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 39 which they seem to have been occasionally regarded, and which can only have arisen from the natural tendency to magnify dangers of which we have no precise knowledge. Productions. — The interior of Anticosti is probably less sterile, for white spruce spars have been seen large enough for the masts of a schooner of GO tons, and others of Juniper of excellent quality, and of sufficient size to form the keel of a vessel of the same dimensions. Black and white birch and ash, the latter of bad quality, complete the list of trees which attain to any size upon the island. Land birds appear to be very scarce ; in winter, however, the white partridge, probably ptarmigan or willow grouse, is seen in the interior. There are as few varieties of quadrupeds as of the feathered tribes. The squirrel and Canadian hare are reported not to exist here. There are only four or live species of quadrupeds upon the island, namely, the black boar, fox, otter, martin, and a few mice. Climate. — The climate of Anticosti, from its proximity to an open sea, is probably not more severe in winter than that of Quebec, although farther to the north, but the summers are cold, wet, and stormy, with frequent fogs. Frosts are common in August, and in some severe sea- sons they occur in every month of the year. It is probable that no other grain but barley would ripen here, unless it might be oats occasionally in r*^"1te''ed situations. Potatoes are frequently prevented hy v^arly ftjisi; ' .-?;n coming to perfection, although planted in the roost favorable situ ai! li /; ^i.a. — Streams of excellent water descend to the sea on every part of the coasts of Anticosti. They are generally too small to admit boats, becoming rapid immediately within their entrances, and even the larg- est of them. Observation River, to the westward of the SW. point of the island, is barred with sand, excepting for short intervals of time after the spring freshets of heavy rains. Fisheries and exports. — Many of the above streams abound with trout, and are visited periodically by great numbers of salmon, which are taken by the two or three resident families, and salted for the Que- bec market. Codfish are taken occusionally off several parts of the coast in small schooners from the Magdalen Islands and other parts of the gulf. Their crews often join the occupation of wrecker to that of fishermen. The black bears are very numerous, and may frequently be seen wandering along the shores. Their skins, together with a few of the other animals named, salted salmon, seal skins, and seal oil, are the only exports, and are taken to Quebec, together with occasional cargoes of goods and people saved from wrecks in a schooner, the only vessel belonging to the island. Wild geese, outards, anrl ducks of various species are abundant, and breed upon the island. Provision Posts. — The people in charge of the lighthouses and i)ro- vision posts, and one man at Fox Bay, are the only residient inhabitants i|i } II t * ,. u V 1 ISLANDS IN GULF ST. LAWRENCE. of Anticosti. The provision posts have been established by the Gov- eminent o^ the Dominion of Canada for the relief of the crews of ves- sels wrecked upon the island. Vessels are more frequently lost here in the bad weather at the close of the navigable season than at any other times, and their crews would perish from want and the rigors of a Canadian winter if it were not for this provision. TLe first of these posts is at Ellis Bay, the second at the lighthouse at the SW. point, and the third at the lighthouse on Eleath Point. There aref the low fc. Within limestone 3h nearer, With the le of the m of sand ant Point t Point is teaches of sons, into e interior ed by the we come ly to the and the 51 cached* ed white. A reef runs out about 2 miles to the southward from South I'oint, and the sea usually breaks upon it. The outer point of this shoal, stated to be 600 or 700 feet in diameter with 21 feet on it, lies with South Point bearing N. 72° E., distant about 3 miles. Caution. — As the survey of this coast is very incomplete, mariners are advised to give this locality a good berth. Aspect of Coast — From South Point to the lighthouse on the SW. Point, a distance of .TO miles west, there is such a sainoness in the character of the coast, that it is very difficult to make out one part from another. •In this distance the coast is very low, but it begins to rise at Pavilion River, there being a high ridge close in rear of the coast all the way to the SW. Point and beyond it for some miles. Beacon. — At the entrance of Pavilion Kiver, wiiere there is a lime- stone clit), is a white beacon 40 feet high. Beacon. — A large white beacon 40 feet high is placed 4 miles SE. of Salt Lake Bay. Salt Lake Bay has flue sandy beaches inclosing lagoons or ponds into which the tide flows. Ott' the center of this bay, and with its N W. point bearing N. 12° W., distant 1| miles, there is very indifferent anchorage, iu 7 fathoms, over sandy bottom. Vessels should be careful not to anchor farther to the southward and eastward, since there is some foul and rocky ground about a mile in that direction from the position which has just been recommended. Caution. — Between the south and SW. points of Anticosti the reefs extend a mile from the shore, and are so steep that there is little warn- ing by the lead. This part of the south coast of the island should therefore be approached very cautiously at night or in foggy weather. The SW. Point of Anticosti island is a low projecting mound of limestone, having a small cove on its north side, which forms it into a peninsula. The land rises gradually in the rear of this to the summit of the ridge already mentioned. Ou the south side of the point there is a beach of limestone gravel on which boats may land, .as well as in the cove ou the north side, when the wind is offshore and the sea smooth. On the north side of the point, and for several miles along the coast to Observation Kiver, the cliffs are perpendicular and washed by the sea. A reef extends out from the point to the west and SW. not more than ^ mile. At ^he distance of miles to the southward and westward of the poii. ^ depth is about 110 fathoms, with mud bottom, and increases to 200 fathoms nearly midway towards the south coast. Anchorage.— Vessels may anchor in the bay ou the north side of the point, iu 12 or 13 fathoms, over a bottom of sand, gravel, and broken shells, with the extremity of the point bearing south distant ^ mile, when the cliffs to the eastward will be at the same distance. It is a danger- ous state to be caught iu by westerly winds, which are preceded by a ■i.VjU^ty l* 1l i|: i ,1 T ii •■ I' ' \ q ISLANDS IN GULP ST. LAWRENCE. heavy swell. The ground is not to be trusted, and no vessel oaa be recomnietided to anchor here unless in case of necessity. From SW. Point to Ellis Bay the reefs of flat limestone extend oif iu most parts fully a mile, and often have 10 or 12 fathoms of water close outside of them. Observation River ?'j the largest stream on the island, having 5 or 6 feet water in its entrance after the melting of the snows iu the spring of the year, but soon becomes barred with sand by the SW. gales. Its source does not appear to be known to the people of the island. Im- mediately to the northward of this river there are conspicuous and high 8andy clift's. St. Marys Cliffs, 21 miles from SW. Point, are also of sand, less high, and less remarkable, but yet not difficult to distinguish. Beacoa— On St. Marys Cliffs is a beacon 40 feet high, painted white. Becscie River, 12 miles southeastward of Ellis Bay, is a small stream at the head of a cove affording shelter to boats, and where there is a hut at which a hunter and fisherman occasionally resides. BlUs Bay affords the only tolerably sheltered anchorage in Anti- costi. Vessels, if their draft is not too great for a depth of 3 fathoms, may safely lie there during the three finest months of summer, namely, June, July, and August, but they should moor with an open hawse to the southward. If of larger draft, and only wishing to remain for a few hours, they may anchor farther out, in 3^ and 4 fathoms, but nei- ther the ground nor the shelter will be found so good as farther up the bay. Anchorage.— The best berth in Ellis Bay is in a line between Cape Heury and the White Cliff', Gamache House, bearing N. 15^ W., and Cape Eagle, S. 51° E. The vessel will then be in 3 fathoms, over muddy bottom, distant about 600 yards from the flats on either side, and about i mile from those at the head of the bay. Southerly winds are of rare occurrence, and never last long. When they do occur the sea is much less at the anchorage than might be expected, although very heavy in the entrance between the reefs. Reefs.— The reefs are of flat limestone and dry at low water. The entrance between them is 1,200 yards wide, from the depth of 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms. Extensive flats proceed from these reefs quite round the bay, and do not entirely dry at low water, excepting in very low spring tides, but there are immense bowlder stones upon them which always show. These flats occasion the landing to be very bad excepting at high water, which is the only time that supplies of good water can be obtained from Gamache River. Directions.— In approaching Ellis Bay from the westward, with west- erly winds, run down the outside of the reefs off Cape Henry by the lead, and in 10 fathoms water, until the west side of White Cliff is in line with the east side of the westernmostof two hills far back in the country, and '~'»T'-"rT»ffnninir Tr— i nt n rr rii TTn-mn i ELLIS BAY — CAPE 0H8ERVATI0N. 43 isel can be ctend off in water close laving 5 or the spring gales. Its iland. Im. IS and high ' sand, less b. h, painted is a small ^here there s. e in Anti- 3 fathoms, 3r, namely, a hawse to aain for a IS, bnt nei- her up the ween Cape P W., and ver maddy and about ire of rare )a is much 7 heavy in Iter. The 3 fathoms round the low spring ch always septing at ter can be with west- y the lead, a line with intry, and bearing N. 7° E. ; tlien haul nj) with these marks on, and tliey will lead into smooth water close under Cape Henry Reef, in 3^ fathoms. Con- tinue running in with these marks on till Gamache House bears N. 15^ W.. then haul up lor it, and anchor in the line between Cape Henry and White Cliff, as previously recommended. The lead should be kept go- ing, and the reefs on either side should not be approached nearer than S fathoms in any part until the vessel arrives at the anchorage. In running for the bay from the southeastward, with an easterly wind, come no nearer to the west point of Cape Eagle Heef than the depth of 7 fathoms, until the east side of White Cliff comes in line with the east side of the same hill as before; then haul up with this mark on until the houses bear N. l8o W. ' I proceed as above directed. Take notice that the west side oi hi., "ff is used for the let uh; nark in west, erly winds, and the east side .^ easterly winds, the intention being to keep the vessel in either case from going too near the lee side of the channel. West Point is low and wooded, with reefs which do not extend be- yond a mile from the shore. North Coast— The north coast of Anticosti, between the West and North Points, is low, with reefs of flat limestone extending one mile from the shore. North Point is wooded, of moderate height, and without any cliff, It can only be distinguished by the change which takes place at it in the direction of the coast. High Cliff Point, distant 13 miles from North Point, is easily recog- ized, being the only cliff on the island that has a talu8 in front of it, or that has not its base washed by the sea at high water. Beacon.— On North Point is a whitewashed beacon, 30 feet high. Coast— From High Cliff Point to West Cliff, a distance of 26 miles, the coast is low in front, with rijdges of considerable elevation a few miles back in the country. This is the most dangerous part of the north coast, for the reefs extend nearly 2 miles out from high- water mark, be- ginning at some low cliffs 7 miles eastward of High Cliff Point, and continue to do so for 4 or 5 miles to the southeastward, after which they gradually diminish in breadth till, at West Cliff, they are not more than ^ mile from the shore. Beacon.— On West Cliff is a whitewashed beacon, 30 feet high. West Cliff has no other high cliff near it. It appears like a white natch on the land, and can be seen from a distance of 20 miles. Low cliffs commence 4 miles southeastward of West Cliff, and continue to Charleton Point. Cape Observation has on its west side a range of grayish whit« cliffs several hundred feet high. At the extremity of the cape these cliffs become suddenly much lower, and then rise again to their former elevation for a short distance on the east side. :4 i M f 1 > 1 :•., ISLANDS IN (JUL,F ST. LAWRENCE. Supplies. — At Cliiiiietoii I'oiiit and Ca{ie Obaervntiuii wood and wivtwr may b« obtained. Bear Head coiiHJMtH of ^rayiHli white cliff's, 40i) feet high and reHein- bliiij; in some «legrce Cape Observation. The coast between is also of hifjh grayish white clitt's. (Jape Observation has no equally high head- hinds to the westward of it, while Hear Elead lias, which will prevent the one being mistaken for the other. Beacon. — On the western extremity of Boar Head Clitf is a beacon« 30 feet higli, with diamond-shaped toi>, and whitewashed. Bear Bay, is by far the best roadstead on the north coast of Anti- costi, and, indeed, the only one in which a vessel of large draft would like to anchor, unless she had some particular object in view. It is sufliciently roomy, the bottom is excellent for holding, the depth of water moderate. Cape Robert consists of clift's of the same color and elevation as those of Bear Head. There are two other points of cliffs 300 feet high, within the bay, the southeasternmosc of which is named Tower Point. The best anchorage is on the line between Tower Point and Cape Robert* at a distance of one mile from the former, as well as from the wesiern shore, and in 13 fathoms water over a bottom of brown mud. Bear Bay is divided into 3 smaller bays by the two high points of cliff already mentioned. In each of these bays there are fine bold beaches of sand and limestone shingle, and streams where water may be easily obtained. But the principal stream is Bear River, which enters the southernmost of the three bays, close to the southeast side of Tower P<»int. It is too shallow and rapid to admit boats, but the water is clear and good. The cliffs in Bear Bay are of grayish white limestone. At the extremities of the points they are rounded by the action of the waves and atmosphere so as to resemble towers, which resemblance is rendered stronger by the masonry-like appearance of the rock. Table Head.— From Cape Robert to Table Head the coast is broken into small bays, with shingle beach and small streams between high headlands, terminating in perpendicular cliffs, the bases of which are washed l>y the sea. None of these bays afford good anchorage. Table Head is rendered remarkable by the hill from whence it derives its name, and which rises immediately from the summit of the cliffs. Fox Point is 4 miles farther to the southeastward, and much lower than Table Head. Fox Bay, situated a little less than 2 miles to the southward of Fox Point, is about a mile wide, and deep, with a sandy beach at its head, where there is a considerable stream issuing from a small lake. Boats may enter the outlet of this lake at high water. Reef Point, of very low limestone, is the southern point of Fox Bay, from which a reef of flat limestone, covered with only a few feet water, runs out to thedistance of fully \^ miles. There is a depth of 10 fathoms close off the end of this reef, so that it is extremely dangerous. To be wood and and resell) • III iH alHO of hi^h head- ill prevent a beacuut i8t of Anti- 1 raft would ?iew. It is [)th of water [on as those ligh, within .»oint. The upe Robert? the western 1. )iuts of cliff old beaches ly be easily enters the e of Tower lie water is » iimestoue. jtion of the eseniblauce rock. jt is broken tween high r which are ige. Table derives its cliffs. Fox lower than rurA of Pox it its head, ike. Boats >f Fox Bay, feet water, 10 fathoms aus. To be MliTl I iT'liliit ii'ifl i'""^ NORTH COAST — TIDES. 4ft Til Ml snre of clearing it to the northeastward a vessel should not staiid nearer by the lead than IS or 17 fathoms. From the northern point of Pox Bay, whiiih is a cliff of moderate height, another reef runs out more than i mile to the eastward. A point of the southern reef, before mentioned, extends to the northward in such a way as to overlap the reef off the northern point, leaving an entrance into the bay from the northward between the two reefs only J mile wide and 13 feet in it at low water. Insido there in a space i mile wide, from the dei)th of 2 fathoms to 3 fathonis, and with 16 feet in the nuddle over muddy bottom. It is said that the sea does not roll in, but in heavy weather breaks on the reefs and in the entrance. This account we believe to be correct, and that small vessels would be quite safe there during the summer months. Coast.— Between Pox Bay and East Cape the coast is of limestone cliffs 100 feet in height, bold, and free from danger. Between Cape Sand-Top and East Cape vessels may anchor with all westerly winds, in from 16 to 20 fathoms, over fine sand, at a distance of one mile from the shore. Tides and Currents.— The stream has run along the land for a whole day at the rate of a knot an hour, in either direction, without any ap- parent cause, and altogether regardless of the change of tide. At other tiines the tides have been found regular inshore. Under these circum- stances it is evident that the set of the stream, at any time or place, can not be reckoned upon with certainty. Usually, however, there is very little stream in any direction on the north coast from West Cliff southeast- ward to Table Head. Prom the latter to East Cape, on the contrary, there is frequently a stream from the northward, running at a rate varj'- ing from h.alf to one knot. In one or two instances this stream has been seen to commence and end with the flood tide, so that there was reason to imagine a connection between them ; and, if this be the ca^e, it may arise from the circumstance of its being high water sooner on i ;e north coast up as high as the Esquimaux Islands than at the east point of Anticosti. The waters having thus attained a higher level to the north- ward may in consequence flew to the southward. On the other hand, it must be mentioned that this stream was observed at times during the ebb tide. It frequently happens that when this current from the northward is running another from the westward comes along the south coast, in which case they meet at the reef pff Heath Point, and cause a great ripple or irregular breaking sea. When this has been observed there has been usually a fresh breeze along the land on either side of the island, the wind on the north side of the island beiug from the north- ward whilst that along the south side was westward. Both these winds were observed blowing a smart double-reefed topsail breeze at the same time, and for a whole day together, and yet never meet round the east end of the island, which is nowhere more than 200 feet in height. Be- ISLANDS IN GULF ST. LAWRENCK. Mveen the two wi.uls there was a triai.KuIar space of cal,,. and licht baf. liiijf airs. The base of this triangle extended from Heath Point to East CHi)e, and its apex from 6 to 8 miles to tlio eastward of the island. This oircmu«tuM.,e is mentioned because it would Ih> dangerous for a vessel to stand into the calm space between the two winds where the hiirh cross sea and constantly changing light airs might leave her at the mercy of the current, in no sn.all danger of being set on the Heath x^oint Iveei. if- ■I ■ T li^lit baf- lit to East 11(1. This r n v(>H8eI the high er at the lie Heath C II A P T K K I I I . OAPE BRETON ISLAND. Cnpe Breton Island i» of an irrcifular trian^iiliirHhupo, ntitl its weHt coa>ft is duiij^uroiis ol' accoss and possosstis no harbor bnt Port Hood. Its other Hliores, though rut^ged, are indented witii lunnt'roiis iiaysand inlets, the hirgost of which, the Hraa d'Or Lake, nearly divides the island into two, and, boinff deep enoujjh for vessels of large draft, att'ords great facilities for commerce. The Resources of the island consist ehietly in its tiinlun', its agri- cnltnral productions, and its fisheries. The coal mines are woriarallel to the coast line for 5 or 6 miles. The only remarkable object in this interval is the church at Craignish, which will be aeen distant 2'^ miles from the light- house. At Long Point, a low cliff of red sandstone, the coast becomes dangerous of approach, and continues so to Emersion Point, a distance of 7 or 8 miles. Judique Shoal, the greatest danger in St. George Bay, is of rock and about ^ mile in length, if the very shallow part is only reckoned, but there are patches with 2 or 3 fathoms and much rocky ground both to the north and south of it. The least water, 4 feet, is close to the outer point of the shoal, and when on it the western extremity of the high- land of Cape Porcupine will appear in the same line as Flat and Hef- fernan Points, bearing S. 20° B. By keeping the whole of the highland of Cape Porcupine oi)en to the west of Heffernan Point, it will lead to the westward of the shoal in 6 or 7 fathoms ; or if the church at Port Hood be kept open to the west of Cape Susan the shoal will be cleared in not less than 4 fathoms. There are 4 fathoms water between the shoal and land, but only small craft should attempt the passage. 47 . iiMiBiif-wtMMiMBinattmwtw^^ tit bmiII 48 CAPE BBKTON ISLAND — N\V. COAST. t i.. i J A rw\ Imoy in placed on Ju(li(iue Slioal about the iHt of May, and takiMi up in November. Judique Bank Vh-h NW. 2^ miles from the Jndiqiie Slioal, 4^ futh- oiiiM U'liMt water on a Hnuill rocky |»atcli, with much foul ground around it. Wlien on tliiH pat(!h I'ortHmoutli l'oint(tiu' Hontli end of Smith iHhvnd) and Cape Linzee will aj)|>ear touoiiiuK, and beariuK N. 4"^ K.; .luditpie cliurch, N. H-l'^ It). 3.^ mlleH, and the left or eaHtern termination of the hijjhiand of Cape Porcupine just shut in behind llett'ernan Point. A veHHel will paHH to the weHtward of this bank, which i8 only danKerou.s to vessels of larjfc earing H. !;]'> K., juHt lead.s outside it, but may not be eaHily mad«^ out Ity HtrangcrN. Smith Island Ih 2 miles long and 210 feet high, and it po.sNeMNt's miu!h IV'rtile laud. With the exception of tiie sanely \u:iw\i in the Imy, the island is eveiywlu-it^ surrounded l)y dirt's of various luMglits up to 123 feet. Tln'y are foinied of soft reddish saiuistones, sluiles, and marls, uontaining oecasioiuilly thin seams of coal, witli IhmIs of gyp> sum, limestone, and trap, wliieli last are well shown at the N\V. end of the island. Henry Island, or Just au Corps, lies about one mile outside of Smith Island. It is nuuth the smaller of the two, being one mile long, atid is greatest height is lO.'i feet above the sea at high water. It is of the flame rock fornuition, and also nearly surrounded wil.iclitt's, which yield rapidly to the action of the waves and of the atnu)sphere, an E. from J to J mile from Cape Gros. The Jerome Ledge, with only 5 feet water, lies in the same direction from Cape Gros, and at the distance of IJ miles. It is of considerable extent, being 'i mile long, and its NE. point reaches to the distance of a mile from the shore. The line of 10 fathoms water is only 600 yards outside this ledge nd the Caveau Shoals; there is therefore little warn- ing from the lead ; but vessels beating along shore, and standing towards them, will avoid them by tacking when the points on the outside of Chetican Island come in line, bearing S. 27° W. At Fresqu'ile the foot of the niountains are close to the shore, after which there are no inhabitants nor any good landing place, up to Grand Anse, 15 miles from Chetican, where there is a settlement, and a small river silted up by a shingle beach, on which boats can land, and be CAPES ST. LAWRENCE AND NORTH. 53 tded, aud bore had they will the west- id, where e perpeu- a. These jan Point 3ti to any ibove the s eutered . extreme itside the IS anchor, jnsidered he island, jet at low ersey, on tid will be rhere are :lement of provision an not be rat 8 J h.; igh tides, ihe way of r, are two of J mile rros. direction isiderable istance of 600 yards ttle waru- g towards oatside of lore, after I to Grand id a small id, and be hauled up in case of need. From Grand Ause to Cape St. Lawrence, a distance of 13 miles, the coast is mountaitious, with precipitous shores, aftbrdiugau inditterent landing for boats at one or two places, an«l there only with a smooth sea. Cape St. Lawrence, svliich forms the termination of the NVV. coast of Cape Breton Island, is of slate rock, affording no landing excepting on the west side, where there is a brook, aud a steep stony beach, on which a boat can be hauled up with ditticulty. Round this headland to the SE. is Bear Hill, a sugar loaf 750 feet high, and close to the shore. This is distant less than a mi'e fiom the cape ; and at an equal distance farther is Black Kock, al»Vc.ys above water, and about 350 yards off shore. Meat Cove, where there is a settlement, and good lauding for boats, lies one mile NW. from Black Point. It is in telegraphic com- munication with the Magdalen Islands, Bird Bock, and the United States. St. Lawrence Bay, between Black Point and Cape North, is 4^ miles wide and IJ miles deep, with bold shores, and .i depth of water not too great for anchoring; but the bottom is not to be trusted, being either of rock or loose sand. Vessels requiring supplies may anchor there in the summer months, when strong northerly winds are of rare occur- rence, and will find 9 or 10 fathoms water at the distance of ^ mile off shore in the bottom of the bay, but they should be ready to weigh immediately on the anproach of a wind from the sea. At Wreck Cove and at Deadman Pond there are settlements, and good landing, the principal fishing establishment being at the last-named place. Cape North, the NE. extremity of Cape Breton Island, is a bold and rocky headLiud, of slate in nearly vertical strata, rising abruptly from the sea to the height of 1,100 feet. There is no shallow water off it, only some rocks above water, which at Money Point, a mile to the SE. of the cape, run off a short distance. SE. COAST OF CAPE BRETON ISLAND. Coast. — From Michaux Point to Cape Gabarus the land is low and has a barren aud rocky ajtpearance, and the shore is broken into numer- ous lakes and ponds, protected from the sea by beaches of gravel and some small rocky islands and ledges. Occasionally there are reddish clay cliffs 70 to 00 feet high, but at a distance from the land there are no re- markable features to be easily recognized by a stranger. The Bank of Soundings again contracts off Santosprit Island, and at 2 miles from the shore the depth is 40 fathoms. C i; thiM account, in foggy weather, the lead should on no account be nc .r.^jted, and no jiart of this coast approached nearer than the latter depth. Current. — About 3 miles off this coast, a current is often experienced running nearly one knot per hour to the SW. ; nearer the shore it is much less constant. Michaux Point, the eastern limit of Chedabucto Bay, is a wooded ( I If '■ '* *■ u CAPE BRETON ISLAND — 8E. COAST. peninsula, not more than 40 feet high, joined to the !nain bind by a beech of sand. The tliree low Basque Islets of clay resting on slate lie to the (iaatward, and are distant one mile from it. There is deep wa- ter north of these islets as well as between the islets and Michaux Point: and m Michaux Cove there is good holding ground and some shelter to vessels during the prevalence of westerly winds, on which account coasters deeply laden occasionally anchor there. A few fishermen fre- quent this cove during the summer, and their huts are found on the north side of Michaux Point and on the Basque Islets. Shoals.— The water is deep to the southward of Michaux Point, but around the Basque Islets are several dangers. A shoal carrying 3 fath- oms water extends SE. ^mile from the south islet; a reef of rocks west 3t)() yards ; a shoal, having a rock with 9 feet water on it, N W. 600 yards from the same islet ; and a rock, dry at half tide, west 400 yards from the north islet. The Basque Shoal, lying 8. 24° E., J mile from the South Basque Islet, has 4 fathoms of water on it, and breaks only in heavy weather. Red Island, just open of Michaux Point, bearing N. 80'^ W., will lead to the southward. Directions.— When standing for the anchorage in Michaux Cove, Vring the east side of Michaux Point to bear N. 24° VV., and then run in for the cove N. 13o W. Having passed the point at the distance of 400 yards in 9 fathoms water, round to and anchor, with Michaux Point S. 20° W., in 4 or 5 fathoms, sand and clay. Anchorage. — It would not be safe to remain at this anchorage if the wind veers to the SE. or east, with a falling barometer. In leaving it, if the wind is scant for the south passage, there is a good channel free from danger between the Basque Islets and the Shag Ledge. Black Breaker, with 6 feet water, is a rock lying one mile southward of Bell Point. The north side of the Basque Islets and the north side of IMichaux Point in line, S. 77° W., will lead i mile northward of the least water on the Bad Neighbor, and the same distance southward of the Black Breaker. Coast— Between Michaux Point and Saut^sprit Island the shore is rocky and dangerous of approach. Grand River enters the sea about 4 miles east of Michaux Point, between Ked Head (70 feet high) and Bell Point, which is a low point, forming the east point of entrance, and from which shoal water and a reef, with only 6 feet on it at low tide, extends i mile to the SW. Although the tide flows up this river 3 miles, the narrowness of the entrance, an Utf Mi . l |Wi' liill W I,ilfclijl> •itiii 66 CAPE BKETON ISLAND 8E. COAST. h Ronse Point— Rouse Point is a peninsula 60 feot liigh, witii clitts ot slate, and wooded. It is bold to, except on the SE. side, where a reef extends 200 yards from the shore. Between this peninsula and Harbor i'oint is the only secure boat harbor in the bay. Anchorage.— Oabarus Cove affords during the summer months toler- ably safe ancihorage in i fathoms, sand and clay, to vessels of moderate burden. The only other anchorage in Gabarus Bay is the roadstead, north of Cape* Gabarus, where in 8 or 9 fiithonm, sand, and at the dis- tance of 600 yards from the high red bauk, a vessel during the preva- lence of westerly winds may find good shelter and smooth water. Supplies.— Good water can be obtained with some difficulty from Irish Brook, 1^ miles from Gabarus Cove, and small supplies of fresh provisions may be obtained. Cape Gabarus, low and rocky at its extremity, may be recognized at the distance of some miles in clear weather by some houses and a chapel situated on the rising ground, J mile Inland from the cape. A rocky reef extends eastward 600 yards from the cape; whilst several islets, ledges, and rocks lie at various distances to the southward. Mark.— A vessel will pass to the southward of all these dangers by keeping the Shag Rock— of slate, and 20 feet high— open south of Guyo'n Island, which is low and bare of trees, and in line with the houses on the north side of Fourche Inlet, bearing S. 66° W. Tides.— The tidal streams in the bay are weak, seldom exceeding half a knot. ^ Louisburg Harbor.— Louisburg contains now only a few scattered houses, and the ruins of its walls may still be traced on the west side of the harbor. Its population of 1,000 persons is principally employed m the fisheries but all cultivate small farms. The land affords good pasturage, and small supplies of fresh provisions maybe generally pur- chased. Good water may be obtained from a brook near Gerratt Head, on the western shore of the harbor. There are two churches on the north sule of the harbor, but from sea they are not easily distinguished. There is railway communication with the SE. bar and the town of Sydney. Pilots— There are no branch pilots, but any of the fishermen are well qualified to bring vessels into the harbor. Coal can be obtained in large quantities, and be put on board quickly. It is shipped at wharves, alongside which vessels can lie at all times when the harbor is open ; the mines are distant 21 miles bv railway. Ice. -The SW. Arm is sometimes accessible to vessels all the winter. The NE. Arm freezes over about 15th January, but the ice breaks up at anytime with southerly winds, andthat arm is only completely closed at intervals. The first vessel usually arrives about 15ih March, and the last one leaves about 20th February. Steam vessels coaled at Louis- burg continuously during the winters of 1882 and 1883. L0UI8BURU. m The entrance to the harbor is abuuc4()0 yards wide, and beinj; exposed to the ocean swell, should not be attempted by vessels of hirijo driifr, ex- cept with a leading; wind, as the shoals on either side are of rock, aiid the wind often battling and unsteady. There is no channel between the islands forming the SW. side of the entrance, and at low water Fort Island is so nearly joined by a rocky ledge to Rocliford Point as to leave oidy a boat passage. Automatic Signal Buoy. — A buoy, painted red, and fitted with an automatic whistle, is moored S. 73^ E., and distant 1^ miles from Louis- burg Lighthouse. From this buoy a N. 8P W. course will dear the Broad Shoal and lead to the fairway of Louisburg ITarbor. Harbor Shoal, with 19 feet water, lies olt'the entrance to Fiouisburg Harbor, N. 53° B. J mile from Green Island, and only breaks in very heavy weather. There are reefs extending 250 yards in an easterly di- rection from Rocky and Fort Islands. It is marked by two black spar buoys. The north nhore of the entrance to the harbor is bold-to, except south from the lighthouse, and 200 yards from the shore, where there is a rock with 4 fathoms on it. Nag Rock. — The Nag Rock, which is marked by a red buoy, lies S. 87° VV. 800 yards from the lighthouse, with 5 feet least water on it. The shoal extending about 750 yards from Rochford Point will be cleared by keeping Loran Head and Lighthouse Point in line. White Rock, the shoal ground oil" Russel Point, has extended to the westward, and the red buoy is now moored in 4 feet at low water, with Russell Point bearing X. 70° E. distant 300 yards. Battery Shoal.— The Battery Shoal, lying half way between Battery and Careening Points, has 3 fathoms least water on it; a black spar buoy marks the NE. edge of this shoal. A black spar buoy is also mooi'p tliat the Kill' Iti^et' lias Ix^eii pasHcd ; ami wIkmi tliit weMi point of Stiatari hflarit N, .'{(»o \V. or nior*^ to tlic weHtwanl Nt«M'r ho as to toiumI it at a i, io't^pini; ^'railually awn)' to tlie nortliward and HaHtwnrd, su hh to ]>artH ItetwtuMi tlit^ Litti«t Sliat; Koul^ and tli*^ ii\mg SIiohI. WlH-n tiic Little Sliay Hocii conioHiu onu with tlu' wost point of Scatari, or wlu-n the latter Iumii-h to the Kontliwaid of 8. li(»° K. the 8ha^ 8iioaI will lie past, and a conrne may be shaped tor dapu Morien. It'e.oniin}; from the northward with a fair wind, brinj; the west point of a(!atari to bear to the Honthward of H. 2rl)y small vessels employed in the fisheries and in sav- ing things from wrecks. Caution. — The principal dangers are on the SE. side, where a reef runs out ^ mile from Hay Island. Outside of this, and bearing 8. 25^ E. 1^ miles from the lighthouse, lies the Wattie Hock, with 4 fathoms on it at low water ; and still farther ont, and bearing S, 30° E. H miles from the lighthouse, there are two rocky patches, 5 fathoms, on which the sea occasionally breaks. The Cormandiere Rocks lie nearly ^ mile to the eastward of the ighthouse. They are small black trap rocks from 6 to IG feet high, and can therefore always be seen. They are bold to seaward, and there is no passage between them and the lighthouse for ships. Mira Bay is open to winds from the eastward, and affords no safe an- chorage. The Mira River, after tiowing for several miles between pre- '•y^ MIIU HAY — CAI'E PKRCY. ii vi tliiit the iiri hfliirN » (listaiKiu want iind Ht point of TP 10. the )e Muriuii. veNt point or ir until bo wlieu ir.se HO aH ^ distance einberinf? r the Bar adou pas- d the ebb liniilar to iuet above lented by ter of its nuhopiige id vessels nd. The h1 almost iittord ex the east ery inse- ly in line d in sav- ?rH a reef i{? s. 250 fathoms , H miles on which d of the eet high, ard, and safe an- reen pre- cipitous hanks, enters the head of tin bay between points of sand and shingle, so yards apart. It disciiarm's the waters of the -Mira Lake and Salmon Itiver, and is the outlet of an interior navigation of al»out '-'(► miles; 'mt the ordiiuiry tiepth on its bar of sand and stones is oidy I feet at low water, and seldom exceeds 8 feet, except in extraordiimry spring tides. Catalogne Lake has only one foot at low water in its very narrow outlet, through a sand and shingle beach, 2 miles south of the Mira Kiver. It is broken into coves, peninsulas, au«l islets, forming pictu- reH(|ue scenery. There is a church at its head, '{ miles in from the entrance, and its shores are occ upied by farmers and Hshermeu. Coast.— Mii'rt Hay, and probably the valley ts river and lake, define another very remarkable change in the character of the coast and nature of tue country. Instead of the undulating and compara- tively fertile laud, and the loug ranges of sandstone cliffs, abounding in coal, which form the north side of the bay, the country to the south- ward, including the island of Scatari, is all hummocky land, in wliich small round or conical hills rise from among swamps, shallow ponds, and dwarf spruce trees. Morion or Cow Bay is 2^ miles wide at its entrance, between Capes Percy and Morien. On its north side, just within Cape Percy, lies Cow Ueef, dry in part at low water, and extenditig to ^ mile from the shore. The head of the bay is occupied by fiats of sand and mud, partly dry at low water, and through which a narrow and shallow chan- nel leads to False Bay Beach, on the north side of Mira Bay. Being completely open to easterly winds, Morien Bay affords no safe anchor- age. Cape Morien is a bold headland, the shoal water exteiuling only 300 yards from its sandstone (difVs, which abound m coal, and rise on its south side 150 feet above the sea. It is the NE. extremity of a penin- sula, which forms the precipitous north shore of Mira Bay for a dis- tance of 5 miles, and terminates at the shingle isthmus of False Bay Beach. Coal.— About 400 tons can be shipped from the wharf in one day the mines are distant one mile (and one, 100 yards) from the wharf. About 130,000 tons are shipped annually from Cow Bay. Ice.— Cow Bay rarely freezes over ; drift ice arrives about the mid- dle of February and usually disappears about 1st May, tlie bay being only closed at intervals by field ice. The first vessel arrives early in March and the last one leaves about Ist February. In 188« coal was shipped at Morien (Cow) Bay every month in the year, and an iron ves- sel has made fortnightly visits during the whole of one winter. Cape Percy is a precipitous headland, where the cliffs of coal-bearing sandstone rise 110 feet above the sea. Off its north side lies Schooner Rook, with 6 feet least water, being the shallowest part of a reef which u. ii T • : i'r ;i ;•* (i2 (.'AI'K URKTON ISLAND — NK. COAHT vxtuiitlH 8(H) yards from tli« hIiohj. Th« IVniy Rock, witli ■ 'wtt WBter, lieH 4(M» yiinl.H off tliti NK. Hlioiiltlur of tli« cap«. Flint Island, Imurinjj N. "r)^ 10. 1 ,"„ milcH from i)n\w Percy, in of hhimI- Atone, Itrtiki'ti Ity tlio wiiveM, preiMpitoiiN, (i(> f(>(>t lii^li xiid (HMI yanlH lon^;. On itM nortli point there is a llsli store, where alone boats eaii hind. Ott" its west end, to tlie distanite of SOO yartls, there are very irre(;idar NonndiiiKs, >A to 12 fatliomsin a east of th(*h'ad, whittii eause, witli tile tide, a stron^^ rippling, and nt times a lioavy l)reakin<; sea. lietween these dangers and tlieeape tliere isaclear einmnel a mile in breadth, throii);li wliieli an irreunlar tidal stream runs at times li knots. Glace Bay atVords nosafeanclioia^e. At its head is Dyson i'ond, ex- tending; 1! ndles inland, and havinfra narrow outlet through sand hills and sand l)ea(;li, whi(;li is usually dry at low water. Indian Bay atVonIs a safe anehora^re only in olVstiore winds and fine weather. At its lieati a dry sand-bar a mile Utun (>.\tendH aiMoss iVoiM the southern to within 150 yards of the northern shore, leavintj an en- traiKH' of that breadth into Hrid;;e])ort Harbor, which is a shallow pond extending L' miles inland. Tlie depth of S feet at low water is all that can be (tarried into this harbor, the interior of which is occupied by tiats ol sand and weeds, i>artly dry at low tide. Coal Mines.— Tlie coals from the mines at nrid^e|)ort, on the south side of Indian Hay, is conveyed by a railroad alon;; the dry sand bar to a wharf at its nortliern extremity ; but as tlie shallow and narrow en- trance admits only small vessels, and the anchorai^e outside ia unsafe, the export in this manner is limited. The t^oal is said to be of excellent (|uality and easy of access ; and with the aiiove exception all the out- jmt is conveyed by railroatl across to the South Arm of Sydney Harbor for shipnienf. Anchorage' — The best anchorage is near the middle of the bay, and within tlie de|>ths of 5 fathoms ; in greater depths the bottom is in geu- eral rocky, and not to be trusted. Tides. — The ordinary rate of the stream In tlie entrance is 2 knots. Sydney Harbor is a tine harbor, being eipially easy of access and egress, and capable of containing a large number of vessels in safety. It is 3 miles wide at the outer entrance ; but the navigable clianuel contracts rai>idly to the breadth of ^ mile between the two bars, which are of sand and shingle, and extend from tlie shore on eithei side. The West Arm is open to NE. winds, except at the coal loading ground, where vessels anchor under shelter of the NW. Bar; and at North Sydney, where they may lie in like manner under Allen Point. The South Arm, being completely sheltered from the sea by the SE. Bar, affords safe anchorage iii every part. Tlie town of Sydney, 3^ miles up this arm, is exceedingly well situated on the west side and sum- mit of a peninsula 55 feet high, and has a population of about 0,000. It has deep water close to its wharves, and the arm continues navigable for vessels to Sydney Bridge, a distance of 2 miles ; and for Imats to F w ot VI ^«i.iii. SVDNHY — DIRKCTIONH. 68 Ih of Hand' ynnU ItoiitH rail 1 nvvt ^■^^ry >i(!li cuitHe, \ji sen. I a mile in 'H IJkiiotH. I'oiid, ox- Hand liillH H and tliio uuss troiH injr an en- How pond H all Mmt I'Upied by tlie Noutli ud bar to iirrow en- is nnNafe, excellent I the out- V Harbor bay, and is in sen- ; 2 knots. cesH and n safety. channel •8, which le. The ground, It North ' the SE. diiey, 3J md Hiini- ,000, It ivigable boats to ForkH Hridjje, where the tide ends miles aliove the town, and front which a roatl leads across to the Kast Hay of the Itrasd'Or. The only drawl)a(!k is the lateness of the spring ; the advance of sum- mer iM'ing retarded by the cold winds from the neighboring sea, which is )isnally, until late in May, laden with drift ice, large masses of which are frequently driven into the harltor by the Nl<]. winds. Coal (Mill be obtained in any ipiantity, and put on board at the rate of r)00 tons per day. It is shipped at the wharves, alongside which vessels (miii lie at any time when the harbor is open ; thu mines are Uitt* taut tVoin North Sydney L*A miles by railway. . There are coal wharves, with railway to the mines, at Fishery (!ove, Wintering Cove, and northward of Freshwater (Jreek ; there is also a ballast wharf 400 yards southward of .Vinelia Point, at the entrance to Crawley Creek. Telegraph and Railway. — Sydney is in telegraphic commnnuratioti with St. I'ierre, I'laccntia, Xewtouiidland, and Magdalen Islands by Hiibmarino cables, and with Canada by land lines. It is connected with Lotiisbui'g by rail. Telegraph Cables. — (Ireat <;are must be used win^ii aiK^lioring in the outer anchorage to avoiil the teleguijih cables, four in number. Tlieso cables are laid down in a southerly direction from Lloyd Cove across the hariior, and thence in a northeasterly direction seaward. Water. — The most convenient watering place is at the creek, which discharges the waters of the Sawmill Lake, a short distance to the westward of the coal loading ground ; but goo«l water may be obtained on the east side of the South Ann, also opposite the town of Sydney, or by the steam water tank, and in several other places where brooku enter the sea. The country is well settled around thu harbor, and sup- plies of every kind may bo roadilj' obtained. Charges. — I'ilotage for vessels of 100 tons to Sydney, !J12 ; to North Sydney, $11; and for each additicmal 50 tons, |l. Vessels not taking pilots are re(iuired to pay half pilotage. Tugboat charges as per agree- ment ; light dues, 2 cents per ton. The United States is represented by an agent. Directions. — When approaching the harbor from the eastward pass the lighthouse no nearer than J mile, and to avoid the Petre Reef do not haul into the harbor until Daily Point opens out to the north, ward of Gillivray Point; and to clear the shoal at Petre Point and farther in, do not approach nearer than A mile, or than the depth of 5J fathoms in running along the eastern shore. When the lighthouse and Petre Point come in line keep them so, which will lead clear of the NW. Bar, which is very steep, having .5i fathoms dose-to. When the wharves at the loading ground bear N. 71° W. the vessel will be well within the bar, and may haul in and choose her berth in 5 or fathoms, mud bottom, and at a short distance from the wharves. If bound up the South Ann or to Sydney, run wilh the lighthouse and Petre Point I •i. I, li I H- *" 64 CAPE BRETON ISLAND NE. COAST. in line, or with the former only just shut in, until Mines Point bears N. 8° E., thence steer i'\ 8^ W. until the SE. Bar lighthouse bears N. 64° E. ; the western extreme of the SE. Bar will then be passed, and the vessel may either haul to the eastward and anchor in Fishei-y Cove in 6 or 7 fathoms, mud bottom, or proceed on to the town of Sydney. Caution. — In beating into this harbor great care must be used, espe- cially when between the NW. and SE. Bars, both of which are so steep that the lead will afford little or no warning. Anchorage. — The anchorage is good anywhere off the wharves of the town outside a line joining the English church and Shingle Point ; within that line there are shoals. TLe depth of this anchorage is from 5 to 8^ fathoms, over mud bottom, and there is suflBcient depth for large vessels all the way to the bridge, between which and the town is the most secure part of the harbor. Tides. — The ordinary rate of the streams is half a knot off the town, but much weaker farther out in the wider parts of the harbor. The Bird Rock, C feet high, will be seen on the reef, lying 800 yards from Mope Head, and the Bonar Rocks dry at low water, at the same distance off Bonar Head. There is also a rocky shoal off Katon Pond, the least water on which, 3 feet, bears from Lawler Point N. T^ E., nearly 1,200 yards. In addition to these dangers, observe that, in the distance of 6 miles from Aconi Point to Cranbarry Head, the shoal water for a vessel of large draft frequently extei'ds to nearly a mile off- shore. Little Bras d'Or can only be entered by small v-^.raft and boats under fai'orable circumstances, the entrance being closed with breakers when there is a heavy sea running, and especially when the strong tide is run- ning out against the wind. There is a fishing establishment on the shingle point just within the entrance and scattered houses and farms at either side. Great Bras d'Or. — Its entrance, between Carey Point and Noir Point, is only 340 yards wide, with deep water, and at a short distance outside the channel is still further contracted by shoals to 220 yards, measuring from the depth of 3 fathoms on either side. Within the entrance, off the small light between Duffus and Macken- zie Points, lies the Eddy Eock, with one foot least water. A vessol will pass clear to the westward of it by keeping Blackrock Point open to the northward of Noir Point. On the opposite or northern side of the channel, from Carey Point to Kolley Cove, a distance of one mile, the shore is quite bold. Anchorage. — Off' the mouth of Kelly Cove, in 5 or 6 fathoms, over a bottom of sand, the anchorage is good, and out of the strength of the tide ; but it is still more secure farther in, within 200 yards of its head, where the bottom is of mud and the depth 3 to 4 fathoms. To this cove, which is a convenient anchorage, we shall restrict our present notice of Bras d'Or, the object of this chapter b^ing the eastern "^ GREAT BRAS D*OR ENTRANCE. 65 *oint bears 56 bears N. >assed, and shei'y Cove ■ Sydney, used, espe- re so steep ivharves of igle Point ; ige is from b for large 3WU is the the town, )r. lying 800 iter, at the off Katon »oiut N. 1^ ve that, in , the shoal a mile off- 9ats under iikers when bide is run- mt on the and farms and Noir ■t distance 320 yards, i Macken- vessiil will t open to ide of the mile, the ns, over a ?th of the f its head, (Strict our le eastern seaboard of Gape Breton Island, leaving the description of its inland waters for another part of the chapter. Carey Point, the NW. side of the entrance of Great Bras d'Or is a shingle beacli, quite bold at its southern extremity, but having a dan- gerous shoal running out froni it so as to form tbe northern side of the channel outside for I mile. On many parts of this shoal the depth is only 3 feet at low water, so that it is shown by breakers when there is any sea running ; and a wide bar commences immediately outside of it and continues a mile farther out, with irregular soundings, from 3 to 6 fathoms, over gravel and sand bottom. The shallowest pait, 3 fath- oms", called the Middle Shoal, lies on the north side of the cliaunel, and 1 J miles from Carey Point. Nearly opposite to this, and on the south side of the channel, is Blackrock Shoal, extending 400 yards north from the red cliffs of Blackrock Point, and i mile in a NE. direction. The Haddock Bank has 4 fathoms least water, and lies from one to IJ miles off shore midway between Table Head and Aconi Point, the last k,"ing the NB. extremity of Boulardrie Island, formed in cliffs of the coal formation, which are ftist yielding to the waves, and from which a rocky shoal extends to the distance of | mile. Supplies.— There are houses and farms on either side of the entrance of Great Bras d'Or, at whi'ih supplies of fresh provisions may be ob- tained. Water is easily i)rocured. (1860.) Directions.— Before advancing farther in than Table Island, bring Carey Point and Duncan Head to touch, bearing S. 36° W., and steer for them until Cape Smoke and" the north end of Hertford Island are in one ; then alter course to tie southward and keep those marks in one astern, running from them for about 400 yards until Mackenzie and Duffus Points come in one, when steer S. 30° W. for them, or so as not to open out Mackenzie Point until Blackrock Point and Table Head come in one. These last-named well-defined points kept in one astern, or as the vessel runs from them on a S. 47° W. course, will lead nearly in mid- channel through the narrow- entrance between Carey and Noir Points; after which there is nothing in the way of a vessel hauling up for Kelly Cove. Should, however, the strong flood tide carry her above the cove, she will find good anchorage 2 miles farther in on the same side, in 5 fathoms, and to the westward of Jane Point. If the weather should be so hazy that Cape Smoke can not be seen, run in upon the S. 36° W. course, with Carey Point and Duncan Head touching, until Blackrock Point is abeam ; then sheer to the southward until Mackenzie and Duffus Points come in one, and proceed as before directed. Tides.— The usual rate of the tidal streams in the entrance is from 4 to 5 knots ; but in the spring, or after long-continued NE. gales, which have previously raised the level of the Bras d'Or Lake, thev may o489 5 66 CAPE BRETON ISLAND — NB. COAST. amount to G knots. Tbey form strong ripples and eddies, especially off Carey Point. In tine settled weather the stream runs out until half an hour before high water by the shore, and in until half au hour before low water; but strong winds cause great irregularities. It will be observed, there- fore, that the stream runs out nearly all the time the water is rising and in nearly all the time it is falling. The rise of the tide diminishes rapidly within the Bras d'Or, and be- yond Barra Strait it becomes nearly or altogether insensible. Caution. — The dangers of this coast are such as to render great cau- tion necessary at night or in fogs, when 30 fathoms, or at least 20 fath- oms, water is as near as a stranger should approach ; the latter depth beiug in some parts within 2 miles of the shore. Hertford and Cibouz (Bird) Islands are long and narrow islands of sandstone, precii)itous on every side, nearly bare of trees, and ^ mile apart. There is uo passage for ships between them, but boats or small craft can pass through a narrow channel which is distant from 100 to 200 yards from Hertford Island and between it and the middle rock. Hertford Island is the highest, and 100 feet above the sea. It is dis- tant from Cape Dauphin 1^ miles, but the dangerous Hertford Ledge, which has 5 feet least water, extends from it nearly halfway across to the cape, leaving a channel 1,200 yards wide and carrying 7 or 8 fathoms water. To avoid this ledge vessels should keep well over towards the cape, from which the shallow water does not extend beyond the dis- tance of 400 yards. Ciibouz Rock. — From the outer point of Ciboux Island a reef runs off ^ mile to the NE. ; and the dangerous Ciboux Shoal, with 15 feet least water, and on which the sea at times breaks heavily, lies g mile farther out in the same direction. St Anne Harbor (formerly Port Dauphin) is capable of containing any number of vessels in security, but the entrance is very narrow, with a tide of 4 knots; and there is a dangerous bar outside, over which a stranger unacquainted with the leading marks could only safely rely on finding 12 teet. In a strong NE. wind, and especially when the tide is running out, the bar is covered with heavy breakers. The harbor is completely sheltered by Be;tch Point, whioii is formed of large rolled stones and shingle, and reaches across from the northern to within 180 yards of the southern shore ; it is quite bold at its southern extremity, and the en- trance channel between it and the Weed Pond Shoal carries 13 fathoms water, but is only 130 yards wide. Within the entrance, on the north side of the channel, lies the Port Shoal, of mud, extending J mile in from Beach Point, and just cleared to the southward by the line of Weed Pond Beach and Bar Point in one. Cape Dauphin, the dividing point between St. Anne Bay and the Great Bras d'Or, is a hifeh and precipitous headland and the northeast- ern termination of the range of mountains which separate them. \ 8T. ANNE HARBOR — DIRECTIONS. 67 Water.— Tbe best watering place (18G0) is oti tiie northern side of St. Anne Harbor, 1=| miles from the entrance, where a torrent descends a ravine in the mountains o*" St. Anne, which rise preoipitonsly to the heiffht of 1,070 feet above the sea. Directions.— Vessels bound to St. Anne Harbor from the northward with a fair wind should pass to the NW. of Ciboux and Hertford Islands, avoiding, if it be wished, the rocky Gfathom fishing ground, iu the mouth of the bay, by keeping welt over towanls Cape Dauphin. Go no nearer to the shore between Bentinck and Island Points than the depth of 7 fathoms. Observe that the line of Bentinck Point and Cape Smoke in one clears the shoal off [sland Point in 5 fatiioins, and that in approaching the bar Cape Smoke should be kept open. Before arriving at the steep outer side of the bar, which is distant one mile from the entrance, bring the white gypsum cliff of Macleod Point in line with the summit of Old Fort, and steer for them until Fader Point is seen oidy just open dear of VVilhausen Point (the vessel will then be only about 100 yards distant from the shore near Bar Point) ; then i)ort the helm instantly and run from the last-named leading marks, keep- ing Fader Point a little open, until Conway Point is seen to the west- ward of Ijead-in Point, or until the gypsum elite of Macleod Point is open only half a point to the southward of Beach Point, or until the latter bears S. 20c W., and is distant J mile ; then again alter course, and keeping Conway Point in sight (to avoid Weed Pond Ledge), steer so as to pass Beach Point at a distance between GO and 100 yards. If the gypsum cliff of Macleod Point can uot be made out, pass VVil- hauseu Point, at the uistanye of 250 yards, steering for the Old Fort until Fader Point is only just open; then proceed as already directed. Having now entered the harbor, avoid Port Shoal by not opening out Bar Point to the northward of Weed Pond Beach, until the shingly Price Point bears to the northward of N. 71^ W. ; the vessel will then be within the shoal and may haul to the northward and anchor to the westward of it, in 8 fathoms, mud, and out of the uvsam of the en- trance. Anchorage.— The best sheltered anchorage is in t'.M i-ntrauce of the north arm, the riding elsewhere in so large a harbor being at times rather rough for a small vessel. The XK. gales, on entering thi har- bor, between mountains 1,000 feet high, and jn^y 2 miles aj'^rt, blow with concentrated force. They may be expected at any time after the middle of A igust, and a vessel should be well moored to withstand their fury. Tides.— The rate of the tidal streams iu the eiilrance is from 3 to 4 knots. The Coast from Bentinck Point to Cape Smoke assumes a les.s sterile appearance, the mountains receding a short distance from the sho-e, so as to leave space for scattered farms. At a brook called French River, and especially at Breeding Cove, there is good landing for boats. CAPE BRETON ISLAND NE. COAST. kl At the distance of IJ miles south of Beiitinck Point there are clitts of white gypsum ; and at Indian Brook, one mile north from Island Point, there is good lauding. Island Point looks like an island, bnt is a small wooded peninsula joined to the main laud by stony beaches inclosing McDonald Pond. Ingonish Island is of rock, ^ mile in diameter and 200 feet high. The Kast Kock.s, 12 feet high, lie ott' it to seawrrd and extend out to the distance of nearly 800 yards. There are several high rocks close to the outer shores of the island, and a small rock oft" its SVV. ex- tremity at the distance of 1(50 yards. The NW. side of the island forms a small bay, in whi(!h there are several buildings (18(50) and where the small fishing vessels and boats are sheltered from the swell from the southward, and from all but easterly winds. From the west point of this small bay a spit and reef exte?id nearly halfway across to Archi- bald Point, leaving a channel of 18 or 20 feet in de()th, but so narrow and crooked that only 14 feet can be relied on at low water. Ingonish Bay, between Archibald Point and ('ai)e Smoke, is S-^ miles ■wide and 2;| miles deep. It is divided into north anvl south bays by Middle Head, a long, narrotv, rocky, and prei}ii)it()us peninsula, off which lies the Fisherman Rock at the distance of 200 yards to the SE. At the head of South Bay there are two ponds, having a common outlet, which boats can enter only at high water. Th(Me are several houses near these ponds, as well as on the tongue dividing the two bays, but the principal settlement of Ingonish is on the north side of the bay. The mountains in rear of Ingonish are the highest on this coast, at- taining an elevation of 1,390 feet ; and Cape Smoke, its south point, rises precipitously from the sea to the height of 050 feet. The squalls from these highlands are at times very violent. Anchorage. — Vessels usually ancshor on tho north side of ingonish Bay within Archibald Point, shifting their berths as the winds may render necessary. The bottom is a thin coating of sand over hard mud. The anchorage is unsafe with easterly winds, which send in a very heavy sea. Cape Egmont is a comparatively low headland of granite, and nearly bare ot trees. At Neal and Blackbrook Coves, which are distant 2^ miles and 4 miles respectively, to the southward, thero is good landing for boats. Oft' South Point, between those coves, there is a sunken rock lying 400 yards offshore ; and there is also a rocky shoal, with 2 fath- oms least water, i mile from the shore at Rocky Bay, where there are several buildings, 2 miles to the northward from Ingonish. Aspee Bay is 8 miles wide and 4^ miles deep. There are flourishing farms in the neighborhood ; the principal trade is with St. Pierre, con- sisting of the following exports, viz., cattle, sheep, butter, oak staves, etc. The fishermen supply the Newfoundland fisheries with a large quan- tity of squid for bait. A8PEE BAY — CURRENTS. 69 Telegraph. — The shore ends of the Atlantic telegraph cables from Newfoundland are lauded hero, and the telegraph station, a prominent building, is seen standing to the westward of a small village on the north side of the bay. A fishing village is situated on a barren part of the ba> inside White Head, and a church stands far back on the hills in the center of the bay. On its north side is Wilkie Sugar Loaf, a re- markable conical hill 1,200 feet high. Supplies. — To the southward of this, and occupying the head of the bay, are three ponds with narrow entrances through sandy beaches, and into which boats can only psiss at high water. There arc settlements at all these ]>ond8, where fresh ^.rovisivjns and water may ive obtained. Anchorage. — The best anchorage in Aspee Bay with NW. winds is off the North Pond, in 8 or 9 fathoms, sand bottom j a-m with south winds off the South Pond, or in the cove under White Head, which, with a small inland lying close off it, forms the SB. point of the bay. In this cove there is a settlement for prosecuting the fisheries, and good landing for boats in all but northerly winds. It is the anchorage gen- erally preferred, especially by small vessels, as being the least embayed, and the most sheltered from the prevailing swell from the SE. Fisher- men state that there is good holding ground in this cove inside the depth of 10 fathoms (blue mud). To vessels unable to beat around Cape North, or in want of supplies, this bay affords convenient anchor- age; but it is only safe in fine weather and with westerly winds; a vessel should therefore be in readiness to weigh instantly on the approach of a wind from the opposite quarter. Coast. — The NE. coast from St. Anne Harbor to Cape North is bold, mountainouit, and f.ee from outlying dangers, except near Ciboux or Bird Island. The mountains attain the elevation of 1,390 feet above the sea, and are composed of primary and metamorphio rocks, principallj' granite, with clay slate, in nearly vertical strata. These rocks form the princii)al headlands ; while sandstone, conglomerate, shale, limestone, and occasionally beds of gypsnm and red and yellow marl occur on the intervening shores. These last-namiMl rocks, the lowest members of the coal formation, rest uucouformably on the older rocks, and they are occasionally covered with beds of drift oand, red clay, and bowlders. They are seen in the valleys and are di-splayed on the eastern slopes of the mountains, where they form cliffs which are washed by the sea. They furnish, with the beds of drift, tolerably productive soil, support- ing, with the aid of the fisheries, a thinly scattered population (1860). Currents.— Notwithstanding the bold nature of this coast wrecks have not i)een unfrequent upon it in the dense fogs which accompany the easterly winds. They have generally occurred to vessels running and steering, as they sujiposed, a safe course to pass St. Pauls Island into the Gulf of Sr. Lawrence. Unaware of, or not allowing for, the current so frequently found "uoning onto" the gulf from the northward, and which had been actin;, upon their starboard bows for many hours. Ksu-a^. 70 BRAS DOR LAKES. pr ' ;;i setting tliein many miles to the SW. of their reckoning, they ran on shore under full sail. On one oceasioii this current was found running out of the gulf for many successive hours at the rate of 2 knots from the north ; at another time its rate was one knot from the NW.; and at a third it was imper- ceptible. After long-continued winds from the east or NE., which raise the level of the water in the Bras d'Or Lake and neighboring harbors, it is not unusual to Hud a current of one knot running for several succes- sive days along the laud from olf St. Anne to near Cape Iforth, wliere it meets the current oat of the gulf and is turned to the east with a great rippling. The iisherraen afllrm that it as ofteu runs in the opposite direction; and again, that at other times there is a regular alternatiou of the flood and ebb streams. These remarks are intended to show th« inconstant nature of these currents, and the consequent great (tare required for the safety of a ves- sel when ap:-.roachinf.>. this neighborhood in the fogs which so often hide the lights on St. Pari Island. OAPE BRETON ISLAND; UTTLK AND GREAT BRAS D'OR LAKES. Boulardrie Isit-. id — The Great and Little Bras d'Or are two channels '•ading to the Bras d'Or Lake. BonUirdrie Island, which forms these ' Ixannels, is 22 miles long, with an extreme breadth of 5 miles. Sand- stone, in some parts containing coal, shale, limestone, and gypsum, are found on its shores, which are thinly settled (1860); the interior being thickly wooded, and risin^' to the height of 400 feet above the sea. St. Andrew Channel, on the SB. side of Boulardrie Island, is easily navigable, being from IJ to 2J miles wide, with a great de[>th .al ui'ands. These two islands are low and wooded, and separated from the meuntainot ^ northwestern shore by a narrow and difficult chi^uif^l, which is almost closed to large ships at its NE. end, by a reef which runs out J mile from the islands in that direction. The Seal Reefs, with 2 feet least water, lie to the SB. of the Seal Islands, directly in the fairway of vessels. There is no passage for yessels of large draft between them and the islands, and thP ship chan- nel between them and the shore of Boulardrie Island is only 240 yards im^-Kite- SEAL REEFS — COFFIN ISLAND. 71 wide. This narrow passage has 2 small rocky shoals on the eoutheast- erii side of the channel ; one, vrith 11 feet water on it, lying 200 yards west from Long Beach, and* the other, with only 4 feet on if, 400 yards 'n the same direction from McLean Point. The sonndings in this narrow part of the channel are from to 13 fathoms, over rocky bottom, the rate of the tidal streams from '2 to 2 J knots, and the mark which hads tliroujjh is, Dnffus I'oint kept jnst open of Duncan Head, bearing N. 43° E. Otter Harbor is to the northward of the island, and affords seciire Jinchorage in from 5 to 9 fathoms, mnd, the best berth being ott" the nioath of the small bay of the main, which forms the head of the har- bor, and has a small islet in its center. The western point of this bay has a reef oflf it to the distance of 100 yards. Its eastern point, a i)en- insula separating it from the shallow cove to the eastward, is named Harbor Point. Directions. — When approaching the anchorage in Otter Harbor from the eastward the reef ott" the islets will be cleared by keeping some part of the Seal Islands to the southward of Seal Point until Harbor Point appears to tlie westwarfj- - _J 74 URA« DOR LAKK8. 'rs(ni Point, Macphee Shoal. — OW tlie southeastern shore of the Little Hras d'Or Ij!ik(' tlie eastei'nniost daupn- is ]\Iac|>ii('eSii(»al, witii 18 feet least water and 'f mile ofl shore. It l.oars from Hla(!i< Point N. 14° K. one mile; and with muoh rocky and irnvidar souiulinj^s to the northward of it, lies in the entrance of Ht. Andrew Channel. Big Bhoal is an extensive rooky bank with very irregular sournlinKS. Uesiiles several patcjhos of 3 fatiioms, there is one near the northern edjj:e wliieli dries at low water. Christmas Island. — The shoal water extends only 300 yards ott" this island l,o liie northward, and there is an excellent harbor within it for boats and small craft, the narrow etdrance, carryingO feet water, being from the westward. A channel has been dredged southeastward of Christnnis Island; the west side of the ehanuel is marked by 4 red spar buoys, and the east side by 4 black spar buoys. Anchorage. —There is good anchorage, excepting in sti'ong NE. wind.s, .\ mile to the westward of the island, in the bay between it and Neilban Cove, in 9 fathoms, mud ; observing that the shoal water extends 400 yard.s from the island in that direction. A chapel, a large white wooden ?niiiding, will be seen on the mainland near the island (18f!<>\ Barra Btralt, cotnmo ily called by the country people the Big Nar- rows, is l\ ndl 's long and ^ mile wide, excepting at its northeastern entrance, whe;e the breadth is reduced by the sand and shingle beaches of Uniacke and Kelly Points. These points are connected by a railroad bridge, the draw of which is on the southeastern side of the strait. The beaches are bold at their extreme points, but shallow on their northeastern sides to the distance ^ mile from the shore. There are settlements, on the siiores of the strait. Barra Shoal, of rock, .md ^ mile in length, lies across I he entrance of the strait, and, together with t!',e sh<'al oft" Kelly Point, render the passage indirect and ditlicult at times for n vessel of large draft. The least water, 1 1 feet, bearing from Uniacke Point X. 32° B, 1,300 yards, is just cleared to the southwaril by the line of Derby Point and Kelly Point in one, bearing S. 11° W., or by the summit of Hector Eill in line with Uniacke Point S. 4G° VV. ; but those marks only clear the least water, not the whole of the shoal, which they lead over in 3 fath- oms water. Kelly and Hector Points, touching and bearing S. 43° W., lead into the entrance of the ship channel, which is to the southward of HAKRA 8H0AL — DKNNY RIVIiR. T5 of the shoal, betwutiu it niid the shoal oti' Kelly Point, and wlii(;li carrioH from to 15 fathoms water over rocky bottom. Within the strait the depth in miicli K>'t)ter. anth of wat jr in this marine lake is extremely irregular. McKinnon Shoal is an extensive rocky bank, with 18 feet least water, stretcliing out 1^ miles from McKinuon Point. A vessel will pass to the eastward of it by keeping Hector and Kelly Points touch- ing anil bearing NE. The Rivor Denny has its source in the eastern slope of the hills east of Judiqiie. It enters the Great Bras d'Or Lake through two deep water inlets called North and South Basins, the real mouth of tlie river being at the west extremity of the South Basin. Eight feet water can be carried up the river for 2 miles, and boats may ascend, with some \vUMl);(4 of thu ixiiiitH and oltji^utH iiaiiuMl. Cod Shoal. — Th«^ (Jod ShoaU, i^xttMi.sivu rocky tlsliin^f baiikH, with 21 tu(>t Uy.iHl wati^r, atitl lyiiiK ^ to .'iiniluH to tho south of the Moiitlii^ni <-ii- traiKte of Harra Strait, are only ilaii}(eroiiH to vhhmoIh of htr^e draft. IIt><;tor and (Iniacku Poitits in oms and hearing N. 'JU^ K, lead h mile to the \v«^st^vard of them, and thronjfh the chanind, 2 mile.s widi^, be- tween them and MuKinnnn Shoal. Kelly ShoaL — 'L'iie approach to this Hhoal in indicated by the open- ing out of the marks for leatling to the north wanl of them, namely, the Houtli extremity of the Red iHlandH bearing X. (iU^ !<}., and in one with Mill Cape, a rocky and precipitoiiH point, distant 2 miles from the islands. There is deep water all around these shoals, but the passage to the westward, between them and Macrae Point, is the most direct ; and the marks for ulearing them on that side are Trap Point and Indian Point in one, bearing 9. 21° B., the former being the extreme western point of Chapel Island, in St. Peter Inlet, and which will be recognized by the large crosH on its summit. These marks lead over the west end of the Kelly Shoals in .'> fathoms water, and also close to the eastward of the 3-fathoms shoal otf Cape George, which having passed, the vessel will enter St. Peter Inlet. St. Peter Inlet. — On the eastern side of the entrance to this inlet are Macnab Creek and Soldier Cove, which have depth of water sutti- oient for vessels of large draft, but can only be approached by passing between dangerous nhoalr ; but '>v keeping over towards Cape George, and steering so as to pas:-. tb .i^estward of Chapel Island, there is nothing in the way until t'le vessel arrives oil' its west point, where the ship channel between < and Dock Point, a shingle beach of the main- land inclosing a smali i>ound, ia ^ mile wide. Anchorage. — Off the western side of Chapel Island there is good anchorage in 11 fathoms water, mud, with the large cross bearing N. 10° E., the chapel near the south end of the island, S. 64° B., and at a distance of 3U0 yards off shore. This anchorage is between Chapel and Doctor Islands, the latter lying ^ mile to the westward of the former and diagonally across the inlet, leaving passages on either side about 4 mile wide. Of these passages the easternmost, between the island and ludian Point, is so intricate as to be only fit for small vessels ; but the ship channel, which curves round the island and between it and the main- land to the westward, is clear from detached dangers, and carries from 8 to 10 fathoms water. It is, however, reduced by shoals on either side, and is still narrower and more crooked in several other parts of the in- let. Referring, therefore, to the chart, the aid of which, or a properly qualiUed pilot, would be indispensable to a stranger, it will merely be added that the channel is everywhere deep enough for the largest ves- sels that could enter the Bras d'Or, until they arrive at the Haulover, that there (I. ikH, with 21 oiithurii (;ii- hir^e (Iriit't. lend A inilo iM wide, be- y the open- iiaiiieiy, the ill one with the IhUiikIs. uige to the it ; and the (liaii Point Hterii point ized by the end of the vard of the vessel will this inlet (rater siitti- by passing pe George, id, there is where the ' the main- re 18 good t)eariug N. M and at a /hapel and the former de about :J ad Indian it the ship the main- irries from ither side, 1 of the in- a properly merely be ^rgest ves- Hau lover, -'^^'^S^^&ii^^mm^^i^^^^^^f^^^mmmsm^^mmm&mwmms'rrrw^ ..■^.-^ *^.*r. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I liilM |2.S 1.8 ui lii 31° m ■UUu Photographic Sdences Corporation ^. 1.25 1 1.4 |l.6 - ■« 6" ► 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M580 (716) 872-4 Jd3 v Is «' CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques V -■ '.-wjiiP^ffBJSSMWeS 'r ii ST. PETER INLET — MtADAM POINT. 77 at St. Peter. To reach the wharf they would have to paas over 15 feet, whicli is the depth of water between st and Cara[)l)ell Ishmds. Barachois and Johnson Harbors. — For these, togetlier with Camp- bell Harbor, and other csoves and poud» capable of attbrding ahi^lter to small vessels and boats, and also for the dangers in tl.n passage between those places and the Kelly Shoals and lied Islands, the mariner is re- ferred to tlje chart. Red Islands, so called from their cliffs of red sandstone and clay, are four in number, two of them very small, and they are so arranged as to form a secure boat harbor, open to the southward towards the mainland, in wliich direction they are prolonged under water, so as to leave a navigable passage onlj' J mile wide. Lochmore Harbor, a harbor for small craft, on the southern shore, distant 10 miles from the Red Islands, is formed by a long shingle beach, having its entrance from the eastward, and 8 feet water on its bar. There is a chapel here, and the country is well settled between the sea and the hills, which rise to the height of 500 feet i mile back from the shore. Christmas Fond. — Directly opposite, on the northern shore of East Bay, arid distant 2i miles, Christmas Island will be seen, and i mile to the westward of it the sand and shingle beach of Christmas Pond, forming another boat harbor, rendered difficult of access to strangers by the shoals off either end of the island. On the mainland, nearly opposite the island, and ou the banks of a considerable stream, are the Indian chapel and settlement of Eskiscogumic (1860). Macphee Island is composed of three parts connected together by shingle beaches. The easternmost part of the island is joined to the mainland by a beach of sand and shingle, one mile in length in a NW. direction; and to the westward of this beach, and ou the northern side of the island, there is a small but secure harbor for small vessels and boats. The reefs off' the southern side of this island, and also off its east and west points, are exceedingly dangerous, being covered by only 2 or 3 feet of water, and extending J mile from the shore. Marble and Macdougal Points. — Half a mile eastward of Marble Point, a shingle beach incloses a large pond, and has a long reef run- ning out from it to the eastward, and at the distance of ^ nn\e from the shore. On the eastern side of Macdougal Point, 1 J miles farther to the east, there is a similar pond. The shoal water runs out 400 yards from this point towards the shoals which have been mentioned off the oppo- site shore, the channel between them being 1,300 yards wide. Cosset Point. — On the northern shore of East Bay, and 3 mil^s eastward from Macphee Island, there is aiiother small harbor open to the eastward, and formed as usual by a sand and shingle beach, from which a dangerous reef runs out 800 yards to the SE. McAdam Point, one mile farther to the eastward, has also a reef off it to the distance of 350 yards; and one equally long runs out from a 78 BRAS D OR LAKES. point a little farther up the bay on the southern shore. The remaining tlistance of.'U miles to the head of Bast Bay is free from danger. Head of East Bay.— At the head of East Bay shingle beaches iu- close a large pond, which boats can enter, and ascend to the bridge, a distance of '^ mile. The pond continues one mile farther, shallow and full of mud and weeds; and from its head the distance is 2 miles to Forks Lake, and 4 miles to the south arm of Sydney Harbor, into which thelake.just named discharges its waters. The main |)ost road from Elalifax, which crosses the Gut of Canso at Port Hastings, and passes by St. Peter, continues along the southern shore of East Bay, and from its head across to Sydney Harbor. There is a chapel on this road near the head of the bay, and there are thinly scattered houses along the whole route. Malagawatchkt Harbor.— The entrance of this fine harbor, between Gillis and Pellier Points, the latter on the south side, is f mile wide, but Sheep Island, separated by a narrow channel from Pellier Point, reduces the breadth to 800 yards. At the distance of one mile in from the entrance, at the first Narrows, the channel contracts to 320 yards, and the deep water tb half that width ; it then expands into a flue basin, affording secure anchorage to any number of the largest ships. Prom the north side of this basin the second Narrows, 270 yards wide, and carrying 4 fathoms water, communicates with the inner harbor, which has deep water quite to its head. Oillis Shoal, lying otf Gillis Point, is the principal danger to be avoided iu entering Malagawatchkt Harbor. There is deep water all around the shoal, but the widest and most direct channel into the har- bor is to the southward of it, where the breadth of the deep water be- tween it and the reefs off Pellier Point and Sheep Island, is 600 yards. Pellier Point Reef is also dangerous. The marks which just lead to the southward of it are Militia Point and the south extremity of George Island in one, bearing S. 60° W., and it will be cleared to the NE. if the south side of the first Narrows be not shut in behind Sheep Island ; this last-named mark leads over the northern side of the reefs off Sheep Island. Directions.— To run into Malagawatchkt Harbor with a leading wind, bring Militia Point and the south extremity of George Island in one, bearing S. 60° W., and run towards them until the northern side of Sb'dep Island comes on with the eastern point of Johnson Cove, bearing S. 88° W. ; then alter course to 8. 88° W. or so as to keep those marks on, until Militia and Pellier Points are in one, bearing S. 47° W.; then steer N. 58° W. until Militia Island and '^ellier Point are touching, aiKl then N. 75° W., or so as to keep in aannel, until the vessel arrives at the first Narrows, when the oou. ^ust be changed 2 points to the northward, or so as to avoid the shoal just within the Narrows, which extend 250 yards from the southern shore, causing the channel to curve to the northward. Having passed the Narrows, which will -^!iH.^->,*?S- ■ mil I > LM i'i , MALAQAWATCHKr HARBOH — WEST BAY. 79 The remaiiiiiig >iu danger, ingle beacbes in- to the bridge, a her, shallow and uce is 2 miles to irbor, into which Gilt of Oanso at ng the southern Harbor. There there are thinly harbor, between , is 5 mile wide, n Pellier Point, one mile in from 5ts to 320 yards, into a tine basin, St ships. From yards wide, and r harbor, which tl danger to be i deep water all lel into the har- i deep water be- id, is 600 yards, which just lead th extremity of B cleared to the n behind Sheep 3ide of the reefs I a leading wind, i Island in one, ortheru side of n Cove, bearing lep those marks J. 47° W.; then t are touching, intil the vessel iianged 2 points n the Narrows, ig the channel 3WS, which will require great care, the deep water being there only 100 yanks wide, the vessel may be anchored over towards the northiM-a side of the basin, in 6 or 7 fathoms, mud, and sheltered from all winds. Pellier Harbor, into which, with a fair wind, the depth of 21 feet can be carried without dilHculty, is formed by the peninsula of Pellier Point, which has several buildings on its SVV. extrenuty, and a long shingle beach which shelters the harbor and forms the eastern side of the entrance. Directions.— Approaching Pellier Harbor from the eastward, and by the preferable channel to the northward of Militia Island, where the deep water is 250 yards wide, attend to the marks already given for clearitig the reef off Pellier Point. Bring Militia Point to bear B. 06^ W., and run towards it until Pellier Point and Sheep Island are touch- ing ; then steer for the harbor's mouth, observing that George Island must be shut in behind Militia Point to clear the reef off Militia Island. In entering the harbor, haul round the shingle beach at 200 yards dis- tance and anchor within it in 4 or 4^ fathoms, mud. West Bay is 3^ miles wide at entrance, between Militia Point and Poor Islet, on the southern shore. The soundings are irregular to an extraordinary degree, numerous rocky shoals, covered by only a few feet of water, having a depth of 20 fathoms or more near and between them. In this bay cliffs of red sand and clay, and of sandstone alter- nating with shingle beaches, inclosing ponds or uniting [)eninsulas to the mainland, form the predominating features of the southern shore, in rear of which, and at distances varying from a half to one mile, ri(?os a range of wooded hills to the height of 600 feet. On the northern shore a parallel range of wooded hills runs westward from Little Har- bor, separating West Bay from the River Denny, and attaining the ele- vation of 750 feet. These hills are more steep than those on the oppo- site side of the bay, leaving a smaller space for settlements, which are not extensive, excepting at Little and Malagawatchkt Harbors. Little Harbor, which is distant IJ miles to the NW. from Militia Point has a narrow but unobstructed entrance, 80 yards wide, and with 3 fathoms water, and which leads into a land-locked basin f mile across, and carrying 3.J to 4^ fathoms water, over a bottom of mud. Between George Island and Madeod Point on the southern shore, a distance of 3J miles, are numerous rocky shoals, so scattered about that a chart on a large scale resulting from this survey, and to which the following remarks refer would be indispensable to the safety of a large ship among them. Paddle Shoal lies S. 58° E., one mile from George Island, and ex- tends ^ mile farther in the same direction, the least water on it being 13 feet. Malagawatchkt Point kepi in one with Pellier Point, bearing N. 26° E , or midway between it and Militia Island, will lead to the SE. of the shoal, and between it and the Outer Shoal, which, with 22 feet least water, lies ^ mile from it to the southward. The marks for the II '::^"'Lv'i^^^*Wr?*^i^t-liV^i^eEtr^'.'^fe?v.'.- 80 HRAS D'oK lakes. soutlieasfein edge of the last-named shoal are Malaga wachkt Point just open to the eastward of Militia Island bearing NE. Morrison Head will easily be recognized, being a small peninsula, 60 feet high, with red clirts, and united to tiie southern shore by a shingle beach. It has a small boat harbor on its eastern side, and shallow water off it to the distance of \ mile. There is also a rocky bank, with 4i fatlioms water, lying jj mile from it to the NE. Macrae Point is distant 2^ miles to the SE. of Morrison Head, and midway between them lies a rocky l)ank, with 21 feet water, the north- ern end of which is .listant !f mile north from Scott Eiver. A more dangerous shoal, hiiving only U feet water, lies northward of Macrae Point, and CAM yards off sliore ; after which there are no farther dangers, exce|)t a small patdi of 4:\ fathoms up to the 3fathoms shoal off Cape George, at the entrance of 8t. Peter Inlet. Mcintosh Cove is easily recognized by Mcintosh Islet, which, with the reef uniting it to the mainland, shelters the cove from easterly winds. The anchorage here is good in 4^ tiithoms, mud, but there is little room, the cove being only ^ mile across, and the deep water only 200 yards wide, from .'? fathoms to 3 fathoujs on either side. The Mclnnis Shoals, of rock, lie off the mouth of this cove, the least water, 18 feet, bearing from Mcintosh Islet N. 80° W. about 300 yards; and from Mclnnis Point, on the west side of the cove, north i mile. Vessels may pass between these shoals and the islet, but the widest and best passage is between them and the point. The outermost of these shoals, on which the de|)th is 22 feet, extends to the distance of J mile ]Sr. 80oW. from Mclnnis Point. Black River — Off" the mouth of Black River, 2 miles farther west- ward, there is another confined anchorage sheltered by McKae Islet and its reefs, which to the eastward unite it to the peninsula of Goose- berry Pond, and to the NW. run out to the distance of 750 yards; but the place is narrow and intricate and only lit for small vessels. Ballam Shoal is an extensive rocky bank, with 17 feet least water, running out ^ mile to the eastward from Ballam Head, from whence to Head Bay Cove, which affords shelter to boats, the distance is 2 miles. Clarke Cove.— On the northern shore of West Bay a group of wooded islands, about 50 feet high, with cliffs of red sand, clay, and bowlders, and connected by shingle beaches when not separated by nar- row channels, will be seen extending from George Island to Ranald Is- let, a distance of 4 miles to the westward. The anchorage is good be- tween them and the northern shore of the bay, but especially in Clarke Cove, which may be approached either through the narrow channel between George and Cameron Islands, or by the wider one between Cameron and Green Islands. This last is J mile wide, but a dangerous reef, with only 5 feet water on it, extends from Cameron Island 600 yards across towards Green Island, and reduces the navi- gable breadth to 400 yards. fichktPointjust mill! peiiiimnia, ore by aHliirif^Ie (I shallow water y bank, with 4i ivsoii Head, alul ater, the north- iiver. A more i^ard of Macrae irtlier dangers, slioal ott" Cape at, which, with from easterly I, but there is eep water only de. this cove, the 5 W. about 300 lie cove, north e islet, but the The outermost to the distance i farther west- y McKae Islet isula of Goose- of 750 yards; ill vessels. et least water, rom whence to nee is 2 miles. ly a group of and, clay, and arated by nar- [ to Ban aid Is- ge is good be- especially in :h the narrow the wider one le wide, but a rom Cameron uces the navi- WE8T BAY — HEAD BAY COVE. 81 Ploda and Crammond Islands.--Floda Island and the two Cram- mond Islands are of similar formation to those already described, pre- senting cliffs of red sand and clay to the sea, and being from 50 to 70 feet in height. Between the two Crammond Islands there is a secure harbor for small craft and boats, having otf its SH. entrance Smitii Shoal, one of the principal dangers in West Bay. The least water, only 3 feet, is on the southwest side of the shoal, and bears SK. 050 yards from the south point of the eastern Crammond Island, and N. 77° E. 1,100 yards from the south point of the western island, from which a reef runs out to the distance of (iOO yards towards it, leaving only a narrow channel bo- tweeu. The SE. extremes of Floda and Tailor Islands touching, and bearing N. 21° E., lead close outside of this shoal, which is i mile in diameter. The anchorage is not good around these islands, because of the great depth of water, which amounts to 25 fathoms between them and Mid Shoal, which has 3 fathoms on it, and lies N. 43° W. l mile from the NE. point of the Crammond Islands. There is a deep and clear channel on the west side of the Crammond Islands, between them and Spruce and Widow Points, the only dangers being a shoal, with 15 feet least water, in Malcolm Cove, and the reefs off either end of Dumpling Island. Macleod and Moss Creeks, and North Cove to the northward of Widow Point, afford secure anchorage in from 3 to 3i fathoms, mud, but must be entered through channels only 80 yards wide, from the depth of 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms on either side. Head Bay Cove.— The head of West Bay between Spruce Point and Ballam Head, is 1?^ miles wide, and 3 miles deep from Spruce Point to Head Bay Cove, which affords shelter to boats. The head of the bay has no secure anchorage, and on its northern shore there are dangerous reefs, especially at Magnus Islet, which lies SW. nearly one mile from Spruce Point, and J mile off shore. Off the first point, westward of Spruce Point, a reef extends eastward J mile, and oft" Magnus Islet, in the same direction. A reef partly dry connects this islet with a po'int i mile to the westward, and then runs out i mile to the southward to the depth of 3 fathoms, and an equal distance farther with 22 feet stretching nearly across the head of the bay, and to within A mile of Ballam Head. 5489 6 r mm ^ CHAPTER IV. WEST SIIOUE OF GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE AND SOUTH SIIOIIE OF EIVER ST. LAWRENCE FROM MIRAMICHI BAY TO GEEEN ISLAND. Escuminac Point, theSE. poiut of Miraraichi Bay, is of peat, upon a very low sandstone cliff, and is wooded with spruce trees, which form a dark ground for the white lighthouse on it, rendering it so ci ii- spicuous that it can be seen at times from a distance of 13 or 14 miles. It is 80 difficult, especially for a stranger, to distinguish one point of this low coast from another, that this lighthouse is very useful to ves. sels bound to Miramichi, and making the land trom sea. It also points out the jmsition of the dangerous Escuminac Keef, which exiends 2 miles out to the northward from the lighthouse to the 3fathoms mark, and 2.^ miles to 5 fathoms at low water. A vessel, drawing 21 J feet, is reported to have stirred up the mud 4 miles N. 78° E. of Escuminac lighthouse without touching bottom. Miramichi Bay is nearly 14 miles wide from the sand bars of Black- land Poiut to Escuminac Point, and GJ miles deep from that line across its mouth to the main entrance of the Miramichi, between Portage and Fox Islands. The bay is formed by a semicircular range of low sandy islands, between which there are three small passages and one main or ship channel, leading into the Inner Bay or estuary of the Miramichi. Tides.— It is high water, full and change, at Escuminac Point at 4h. 10 m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2 J feet. Coast— At 6| miles from Escuminac Point, along the low shore of the mainland, is Huckleberry Gully. Several lobster factories have been built between Escuminac Point and Escuminac village, the most conspicuous at Herring Cove and Win- ter Portage, distant one and 2 miles respectively from Escuminac light, house. The lioman Catholic church, west of Escuminac village, has a square tower, and is a conspicuous object from the eastward, when north of Escuminac Point. There are houses, where some of the pilots reside, for 2 miles along the shore to the eastward of the South beacon. Huckleberry Island has decreased considerably, being now only one mile long, and elevated 33 feet above high water. The gullies on each side of this island are almost dry at low water. Fox Gully is difficult 88 FOX ISLAND PILOTS. 88 TTH SHORE OP 3EN ISLAND. I of peat, upon ce trees, wbich Bring it so con- 13 or 14 miles, h one point of y useful to vea. I sea. It also , which extends •-fathoms mark, ring 21J feet, is of Escuminac I bars of Black- }hat line across tweeu Portage range of low isages and one estuary of the ninac Point at e low shore of cuminac Point Cove and Win- 3cumiuac light. :e, has a square when north of r 2 miles along g now only one gullies on each uUy is difficult to distinguish, and the church at French village can not be recognized. There is, liowevcr, a conspicuous clump of pine trees on French Kiver Point. A black spar buoy, in 2 feet water, marks the entrance to Huckleberry Gnlly. Fox Island, 3'| miles long, in a SK. direction, is narrow and partially wooded ; like I'ortage Island, it is formed of parallel ranges of sand hills, which contain embedded drift timber, and have evidently been thrown up by the sea in the course of ages. These islands are merelj' sand bars on a large scale, and nowhere rise higher than 50 /eet above the sea. They are incapable of agricultural cultivation, but yet they abound in plants and shrubs suited to such a locality, and in wild fruits, such as the blueberry, strawberry, and raspberry. Wild fowl of vari- ous kinrii limit of a il L', Ik moori'd <^ l)ur hihI Fox rom Hiir lUioy. inp IJiioy. t water, N. 34° {le of tli« bar lly to U feet, I, is moored in one mile from I Island liglit- NW. extreme 1 18 feet water, [ at the eastern , numbered re- jrseshoe Shoal, he lifjhtvessel. y- I 23 feet water, of llrandoon Au\ the western mbered 10, is loal extending lonis, between where vessels oe Shoal, is the for a wind, or e Island light. uet, and neaps lies and north- le flood stream ds Portage Is- athward along m there. The generally over MiramicJii Hay, tlu^ greatest veloeity being obstTVed in the ehannel south of Horseshoe Shoal, and between that shoal and the I'ortage Island. Southward of Horseshoe Shoal, the ebb stream runs in the dirirtion of the ehannel, straight to seaward, its velocity gradually ditninishing as ihe bay is reached. It is joined by a stream running down the west side of I'ortage Island, which tletlects it slightly to the southward. The stream down Ship (Jhannel is not very strong, and runs in the line of that channel. There is scarcely any ebb stream eastward of the liar Buoy. The greatest velocity of tidal stream ascertained near Miramichi Bay was 2^ miles an hour. At the anchorage south of Portage Island, the ebb stream makes about an hour after high water, and runs 7 hours, whilst the Hood stream begins about 1^ hours after low water, ami runs 'itV hours, with about half an hour slack water between each tide. Directions. — Kscuminac Point, having been made, should be rounded in 5 fathoms by day and 10 fathoms by night, or at distances of 2^ and 4 miles, respectively ; thence steer for the liar buoy, which should be passed close to on its south side, and immediately alter course to bring the beacons or lights at Preston beach in line, bearing S. 4P B. Keep the Preston Beach beacons or lights in line until theSwashway beacons or lights are also in line, bearing S. 8(P W. ; then steer N. 54° W. for a distance of 3 miles, which will lead to the Spit buoy. Con- tinue that course until the light-vessel at the inner bar bears S. 72° W., when the spit oft" Fox Island will be cleared, and a course may be steered for No. 5 buoy, at the eastern edge of the inner bar. With a long vessel, buoys 5, 0, and 7 should be brought in line before reaching No. 5 buoy, and then to obtain the deepest water in the channel, 18 feet, vessels should pass (luite close to the buoys and on the south side of them. From No. 7 buoy steer for No. 8 buoy, and thence for No. 0, at the southwestern extreme of Horse Shoe Shoal. From No. 9 buoy steer N. 82° VV. to the eastern extreme of Oak Channel, passing GOO yards northward of the southeastern spar buoy. Not more that 10 feet at low water will be found over the flats southeastward of Oak Channel. There are only 15 feet for a short distance in the direct line from No. 9 buoy to the southeastern spar buoy, but the mud is so soft that with a strong fair wind vessels can force their way when drawing 2 feet more water than the apparent depth. From the eastern end of Oak Channel the course is S. 50° W. to Grandoon buoy, passing close north of the northwestern spar buoy ; or if the spar buoy be seen steer for it, and then for Grandoon buoy. Pass close southward of Grandoon buoy, and then alter course to S. 72° W. until Oak Poiut beacons are in line, bearing N. 30° E. ; keep these beacons in line astern past Mussel-bed buoy, and up to Narrows buoy. The mark, Black Brook mill-chimney, on St. Andrew Point, open ■.•tH^^rr^^^ B?a i!r>a-,jK WSi'itW i-f.t^^-'^ .Aim 80 MIKAMICHI HAY TO (JKl.KN IHLANI). \ north of till"! tr»M>H on Slmldriike InIiuhI, now IimkIh ovvv 13 U>H water only, and Sln'l(lraU«^ Islantl IlKlitH in lino ovor 15 ftn't. Tim Hlioal Moutli- wPMtwanl nl .Slii^ldniko Island has apparently oxtcndtMl. Hlack Krook mill is sitnated on St. Andrew I'oint, ami has a larjjo chimney, whieh mIiowh plainly from (Jrandoon hnoy. The Inner Bay of Miramichi is ot' tjreat extent, beinj; about l.'i miles lonK IVom ils t^itrantie at Fox Island to .Sheldrake Island (where the river may prop«'rly be said to (loinmemie), and 7 or 8 miles wide. The depth ol" water aeroHs tli- bay is snllhiient for the hufjest vesselH that ean moss the iniuM- bar, Ik nff li'j lathoms at low water in onlinary spring tiili's, with mnddy bottom. Egg and Vin Islands are on th(> southern sitle of the bay ; the tlrst gmall, l()w, and swampy, the other much larger, beintf 'J j miles l«)n|,', and for the moKt part thickly wooded. Vin Harbor is to the southward of Vin iHland, and must be ap- proached around its west cud, which is distant nearly M miles from the north point of Fox Island. It is quite sheltered from all winds, ami has plenty of water for the larjyest shiiis that can enter the inner bay Anchorage.— Anchor near the center of the harbor, in 10 or 11 fathoms, mud bottom. Tides.— Spriiifjs rise 5 feet, neapH 3 feet, but the rise is at nil times uncertain, neap tides sometimes not ranginfj above a foot and sprinp tides not above 2 feet. It must also bo remembered that the a. m. tides rose hipther in fjeneral by 2 feet than the p. m. tides in the beginning of Aufrust, which was the only opportunity of observing them. Directions.— A pilot can readily be j)rocured to take a ship into Vin Harbor, or with the assistance of the chart, as follows : Steer S. 5(P VV. from the 8VV. buoy of the Ilorse-shoe for about 3 miles, and then to the southward around the west end of Vin Island, at a distance not less than 3 mile, until the sandy i)oints on the south side of the island open, bear- ing N. 5!)o E. Steer for them, keeping them just open, and on a|»proach- ing the sandy S\V. point of the island sheer to the southward sudi- ciently to give it a berth of 150 yards as the vessel rounds it into the harbor. Do not go to the southward of the line joining the sandy jmints of the harl)or, or she will be on shore on the sandy shoal whieh extends off the main land opposite. The harbor is a bay of the island, '^ mile wide and 000 yards deep. The long sandy Vin Spit and shoal of the main runs out to the north- ward, nearly to the line joining the sandy points of the harbor, but leaves a narrow channel to the eastward, which continues for about 2 miles, and may be considered as a prolongation of the harbor in that direction, or towards French River Point. French liiver is small and shallow, and has a village of Acadians and a church, which bears S. 65° \V. from Fox Gnlly, from which it is distant 1^ miles. The space to the eastward of the line joining Egg Island and French Kiver and in the bay to the southward of the latter, is occupied by flats of sand, ;y.ii*i:,v_- VIN HARHOIt — HIIKLDHAKK INLAND. 87 ( f«'i>t water hIioiiI .south' lia.s a liirf^e IK about 13 III ml (wlit>ro miles widi'. ' y:t'st vvh.scIh ill onliiiiiry ly ; tlio llfHt iiiik>.s l«)iit;, iiUHt h(> ap- ilt'sfrom the wiiuls, aiui e inner bay ill 10 or :i at nil times sprinp tides II. tides rose lepfinniiig of I. tiip into Via Br 8. 5()o VV. then to the ot less than lopen, bear- 11 approach- iward siilJi- it into the andy jmiiits lich extends land, '^ mile the north- harbor, but for about 2 bor in that < small and ch bears S. The space 1 Kiver and Its of sand, mud, and eelgracs, the home of oysters, lobsters, and otiu'r shell (Ish. Shallow and intrieate boat ehannels lead through the.se Hats to Fox and Huckleberry (}ulli(>s. Vin Bay is re than .'{ miles wide and nearly as deep. I'oint Quart, its western point, is a l(»w eliir of sandslone with hiuh trees, .{(^ mJloH from the west end of V\n Island. Tiiere is rooiI an to the westward of the i.sland. The western side of the l)ay is shallow. In its SW. corner is HIack IMver into which )» feet can be carried at low water throiiph a narrow and dilllciilt channel, and the river has 3 fathoms in it for .some distainie \>ithiii tlu^ eiitraiuie. Vin River also runs into this bay -J^ miles to the southward from the HVV. point of the island. It is a .smaller river than HIack Uiver, haviiijj only (I feet at low water in its entraiuie. There is a small but neat church on its eastern shore, a short distaniie within its entrancie, and llourishiiif; farms on either side, where supplies may best be ob. tabled. The best watering place will also bo found at this river; but it is ditlleult to obtain large supplies of good water in so tiat a country near the sea. There is a tolerable road from V' in Itiver to Chatham, the principal town on the Miramichi Itiver. Point Cheval, bearing S. 87° VV. nearly 3 miles from I'oint Quart, is sandy, with a clump of high trees ui)on it. Immediately to the westward of Point Cheval is the shallow Napan Bay and Kiver, which boats can ascend for several miles, or as far as the tide reaches. Above that point the river, which is small, runs through a fertile and well-cultivated valley, extending westward in rear of the town of Chatham. Middle Ground is a long sandy bank, which stretches down the center of the estuary from I'oint Cheval and (-vtends Irom it n miles to the eastward. The east end of this bank will be i'l.-ared by keeping Freii(!h Kiver Point open to the eastward of Vin Island, bearing S. (}80 E. The Ship Channel is between the Middle Ground and tin' north shore of the bay. Sheldrake Island is low, swampy, partly wooded, and has two buildings on its eastern side, which were formerly used as a cholera hospital. The island is i\ mile long by \ mile wide, and is separated from the north shore by a channel A mile wide, but with only one or 2 feet in it at low water. Shallow water extends far oil' this island in every direction westward to Bartiboque Island and eastward to Oak Point Murdoch Spit and Murdoch Point are two sandy points on the south shore, 4 mile apart, with a cove between them, and about a mile SW. of Sheldrake Island. The entrance of Mirimichi Kiver is ^ mile wide between these points and Moody Point, which has a small Indian church upon it, and is the east point of entrance of Bartiboiiue Kiver. St. Andrews Point, lA miles above Murdoch Point, and on the same >^ J' I ill i! \- 8.8 MIRAMICHI BAY TO GREEN ISLAND. or Houtl), side of the river, is St. Amlrews Point showing as tlie extreme of the land from Sheldrake Island. Both these points were wooded at the time of the survey, in 18;i7, and used as leading marks. Bartiboque River is ^ mile wide at the entrancse, between Malcolm and Moody Points, but contracts to 300 yards a short distance within, where a wooden bridge is thrown across. Bartiboque Island lies in the entrance of tlie river, and has steep banks or clay clifts on every side, and is nearlyjoinetl to the shore to the northward by asandy spit. The narrow channel into the river passes close to the east end of the island, ^iid has not more than 4 feet in it at low water. Oak Point. — Returning back to the eastward, along the north shore, the first point requiring notice is Oak Point, nearly opposite Clieval Point. The eastern part of this point has dark-colored sandstone clitt's, about 12 feet high and forming au extreme point, with a beacon on it; it is used as a leading mark with a white beacon which stands N. 34° E., at the distance of % mile from it on the shore of the l)ay. The latter beacon is lofty and large, and shows so consi>icuously on the dark background of the wojds that it can be easily seen on a fine day from Fox Island. O-randoon Island, low and marshy, and difficult to distinguish from the main land till very near, is distant 2 J miles from Oak Point; and 3J miles northward of Quart Point. Farther eastward, along the northern shore of the Inner Bay, are Burnt Church and tlie Indian vilhige and small river of the same name; also Hay Island, and the Acadian villages of Upper and Lower Il^"eguac, inhabited bv fishermen and farmers, lie out of the line of ship navigation. They will require no further notice here than to remark that there is a clear channel, with 3^ to 2^ fathoms water in it, to the northward of the Florseshoe and the shoals of Portage Island as far northeastward as Hay Island, where a narrow channel leads out to sea through the Neguac Gully. Miramichi River maj^ be said to commence at Shi Idrake Island ; for below that point the Inner Bay, with its low and widely receding shores, bears no resemblance to a river. At its entrance, the country begins to rise into gentle undulations, terminating in steep banks and clili's of sandstone, which in some places at tain a height of 50 feet above the river. The settlements, too, increase in number and extent, and soon become continuous on either side, dot ted here and there with steam saw- mills. Written directions, however, will not much avail above Shel- drake Island, not only on account of the contracted nature of the navi- gation, but also because there are few leading marks of a permanent nature which could be certainly recognized by a stranger. Directions, too, are not so requisite for this inland navigation, for which there are abundance of well-qualified pilots. Jjeggat Shoals at the time they w ere surveyed had 12 feet upon them at low water ; but this depth is said to vary, and also upon the banks % ^--t CHATHAM — NEWCASTLE. 9B ig as tlie extreme i were wooded at irks. etweeii Malcolm distance within, [slandlies in the fs on every side, sandy spit. The id of the island, the north shore. Dpposite Clieval lored sandstone t, with a beacon in which stands ore of the hay. >icuously on the en ou a fine day Llistinguish from Dak Point ; and rard, alonj; the and the Indian Island, and the id bv fishermen irk that there is e northward of ■ northeastwaid ea through the Idrake Island ; ^'idely receding ce, the country teep banks and tf 50 ft*et above stent, and soon ^ith steam saw- lil above Shel- ire of the uavi- f a permanent r. Directions, 'hich there are "eet upon them )on the banks of St. Andrew, in consequence of old trees, logs, and other lumber lodg- ing upon them. The same (sause is said to render the depth uncertain to the soutliward of these shoals, where thero is a wider channel (1800). Tlie river is clear of detached slioals to Middle Island, which, together with its shoal, confines the ship cliannel to the north side of the river, where the aiiore is so bold that there are 7 or 8 fathoms close to the sandstone dirts until the vessel is ort' the Gilmour Mills and Cove, nearly opposite the west end of Middle Island. Middle Island is rather smaller than Sheldrake Island, and there is no channel to the southward of it at low water. There is nothing in the way of vessels from Gilmour Mill to the wharves at Chathan>. Chatham, the principal tow u on the Miramichi, and containing, in !i83, about 6,000 inhabitants, commences ft a mile above Middle Island, and extends along the south shore for 1\ miles to the westward. It is conveniently situated for shipping, having to 8 fathoms water close to its wharves. It is a straggling, but rapidly increasing town, having some good houses, 3 (jhurches, and 2 other chapels or places of worship. Water and Supplies. — The surface water is quite fresh, on the ebb tide, at (Jhatham. Supplies of any kind can be procured at Chatham or Newcastle. Coal. — A.bout 1,000 tons of coal are usually kept in store at Chatham, and about 200 tons at Newcastle, butany (luantity can easily be obtained at short notice by Intercolonial Railway from Springhill or Pictou. Trade. — The chief exports from Chatham and Newcastle are timber, deals, palings, salmon, lobster, and extrac t of hemlock bark for tanning. Repairs. — There is neither dock nor slip in Miramichi Kiver, but at Chatham there is a wharf for heaving down vessels in need of repairs. Telegraph and Railways. — Chatham is in telegraphic communica- tion with all towns of the Domini on of Canada and the United States, and is 0() or 300 inhabitants, pnucipally Is" urs'lf " ""^ '-«-f "^^^ '-Se wooden church, which stands on banks'"'l!'.*^'^, '^^*'°*; ^* '"""' '^"^ ^^'"^ * ™"« ^^••l^' ''«« «teep clay ban , based on sandstone, and rising toabout 20 feet above the river critsTH' '' 7''^"r^"^^>'*^ to this poiut by any vessels that can cr( 88 the Horseshoe or Inner Bar. There are some parts of the channel above Chatham where there are only 2i fathoms and whch would have to be avoided by a large vessel at low water, but there is on. V one detached shoal, which has feet least water, and lies ess than Do'Sto'r." "" '''"""' sbore,S.28ow.fr;nx the hospital at Tides.-The usual average rate of the ebb tide is 2 knots and the 'HnoT alir- 'T' ''''' ^'*'^' ^'^^«-^- ^"« «^^ •" some pSce" r u Jth Mu,' A '" . T""^ ^* '^' '''^'' '« «^"'^ ''' ^« «ti» stronger. In Jid;^ and August, when the observations were made, exceptin-^ for 2 or 3 days at neap tides, the morning tides rose 2 or 3 feet h ght^r than the evening tules, and were of longer duration by one or even two nul'lvb^r"" """' "'." " "'"^'' •"""•^"«^^" by winds, and cine qnently by no means regular. The mean length of the flood tide is 6 hours, and of the ebb G,^ hours. The h rises to the cummaiidiiig a il to Beaub^re 1, a distance of been selected, utile |)iir|)08e8, ilear of shoals, u. ters of the Mi- ts, i)riiicii>ally liich stands on I, and 1^ miles las steej) clay )ove the river, y vessels that 5 parts of the ns, and which r, but tiiere is lies less than he hospital at nots, and the e places runs stronger. In cepting for 2 t higher than > or even two s, and conse- lood tide is 6 of the tidal hey continue water by the reut arms of , as respects lain branch, le NVV. Arm miles above the ciiaunel >t more than H fathoms nud and low arrow chan- nels between meadow islands. There the tide ends, and the water be- comes quite fresh 13 miles from Beaub^re Island, and 39 miles from the entrance of the inner bay at Fox Island. The SVV. Arm is not navigable for large vessels, as not more than (J or 7 feet, at low water, si)ring tides, can be carried through between Beanbfere Island and the mainland; and even above tliat shallow j)art, although therv is often -lore than 2 fathoms wat(M-, yet the chan- nel is too narrow and intr' te for any but very small vessels. The arm is about ^ mile widt f iie lirst 5 miles, or up to Barnaby Island ; after which it varies from :., -0 to 400 yards up to the rajtids. 12 miles from Beaubere Island. Botli shores of this arm are settled, and niany of the farms appear to be in a flourishing condition. Tides —The tide, which ends at the rapids, was observed to rise 2 feet there, and it was high water on the day of the full moon at about 8 hours; as it was also at the foot of the rapids in the NW. Arm. The Neguac Gully, between the saml bar of the same name and a small one to the S\V., is nearly 600 yards wide and carries 3 fathoms water; but a sand bar, of the usual mutable character, lies off it nearly a mile. Within the gully a narrow channel, only fit for boats or very small craft, leads westward up the Inner Bay. The shoal water extends IJ miles off this gully, but there is excellent warning by the lead here, and everywhere in this bay. Shoals, nearly dry at low water, extend from the Neguac Gully to Portage Island, a distance of li miles. A can buoy, paijited red, is moored in four fathoms at the entrance to Neguac gully. A similar buoy is moored northwestward of the first buoy, to show the direction of the channel. A church with a spire has been built at Neguac Village, about 2| miles northwestward of Neguac Lighthouse. Blackland Point, the north point of Miramichi Bay, is low and swampy, with steep and black peaty banks, and there is a conimuni- catiou round it for boats within the sand bars, from Tabusintac lagoon into the Inner Bay of Miramichi. Tabusintac River.— Tabusintac Gully is about 30() yards wide at high wa er, and has a shifting bar of sand, over which or 7 leet could be carried at low water when it was surveyed, and II or 12 feet at high water in spring tides. The entrance of the Tabusintac Kiver from the lagoon inland is 3 miles to the northward of the gully and can be seen over the sand bars. There is plenty of water iu this river when once over the bar ; 2 and 3 fathoms is the depth in the channel through the lagoon, and there is as much as 4 and 5 fathoms in some jmits of the river ; but the channel is too narrow and intricate for anything larger than boats or very small vessels. The tide flows 10 miles up the river, through an undulating country, and occasionally between steep banks of sandstone, which rise to about 100 feet above the .«ea. There are settlements on either shore, consisting principally of Scotch fjimilies, and there is a church on the south bank 1| miles up from the lagoon. 92 MIRAMICni BAY TO GREEN ISLAND. Salinon are taken iu considerable quaatites in tbe Tabusintac. There are lobsters, oysters, an.l other shell fish in the lagoon ; ami coddsb tl Jp!!L!.*^* ^'''*' !' f '"^^^'^^f l^'-g^r, but in other respects si.nilar to the I okemouche. It has a church and village on the south side of its entrance fro„, the lagoon inland, which can be seo- over t e ^a cl bars but the church bears SW. 3i miles frou. the nortl, ,a.d princina gullv' instead ot west, as at Pokemouche, which will help to d s hc^^ st h' td d^ls. "''" '"'''"^ " considerable quantity of pine tiLber th^'vefv'll't.t-"-' ?' ''^'"'*?'' '^ "' '^'^^^"^ *^« P^'"«'I»-' «"trance to the very extensive lagoon, through which the river flows in a narrow channel between flats of sand, mud, and weeds. There are everarhuti S wZ. tutVkrr:? ^' *? r:''^ ^^^^' ^« '^ yardr:i't s n ofJ rL ' M "^^^ '""* *** ^'^'^ «'^^«*' »»«« a ^''ifting bar of sand ott t, causing the depth, breadth, and directions of the clmnnel to ou?s .r«L!n '"'"'*""" ^'^ ''^^ ^""^' *^°*^ «'>«l«^«r«d by the bar lage bJt tL L r'1 '" "*' "•"^"°"' ^*" '^^ river opposite the vil- will . ? ^"'^ ""^ '^^''^^^ ^^' t»^««'n& through the la^^oon :i;e:rrtr;:t'" ^-^^^^""^^ ^^^"^-^^- ^«— -'^v- At 2 miles to the southward of the North Gully is the Old Gullv now nearly blocked up with sand, but which was formedy he SaT traversing a lagoon, by the Little Tracaii through Raft , but it is nearly ay between Raft aspects similar to south side of its er the sand bars ; 1 princii)al gully, 9 distinguish the are principally ;y of pine timber cipal entrance to ows in a narrow ' are several huts yards wide at k shifting bar of of the channel to jctious for enter- tered by the bar { fathoms water, opposite the vil- ugh the lagoon, ;s can only pass Old Gully, now the principal its waters, atter ;he sea, is sepa- land whiuL ap- nication within d fish stores at the entrance of ons of Tracadie ar 9 miles, uche and Great the depth of 3 illy, after trav- i gully through sand outside at low water into the gully, and there are from to 12 feet for some distance witiiin. The spring tides rise 5 feet, so that large schooners can be taken in by a native pi' Jt, ;md in line weather. On the south side of the entrance of the river from the lagoon inland and 1^ miles from the gully, there is a church, village, and sawmill. The inhabitants, 300 or 400 in num- ber, and principally of Acadian French and of Irish origin, live by fish- ing, a very limited agriculture, and lumbering. Shippegan Gully, with its bar of sand, its rapid tide, and danger- ously heavy surf occasioned by easterly gales, is distant 22 miles from the north point of Miscou. The bar of sand, which dries in part at low water, shifts in heavy gales; but there is generally a channel with -l or 5 feet in it at low water, and the tide rises from 3 to 5 feet, accord- ing as it may be neap or spring tide. The 3-fathora8 edge of the shoal water outside the bar is '^ mile ott' shore, after which thedei)th increases rapidly. Birch Point. — About li miles to the southeastward from the north point of Miscon is Birch Point, a steep clift" of sandstone about 10 feet high, and which will be easily recognized by the white birch trees, which are higher there than in any other parts near the shore. A reef of stones and sand extends there J mile out from the shore. The sound- ings in the chart will euable the mariner easily to avoid the shoal off the North Point, either by night or by day. There is good anchorage on either side of it ; under the North Point in from 5 to 10 fathoms, in southerly winds, and oft" the light-house on Birch Point, in from 3^ to 6 fathoms, in westerly winds, the bottom being of sand, which holds suf- ficiently well for ottshore winds. Miscou Island. — The Miscou Flats, which are of sandstone, coiitinue 4 or 5 niiles to the NK. of the harbor; and near their northern termina- tion there is an opening in the trees which extends across the island, and which has been mistaken by vessels, at night or in foggy weather, either for the harbor or the gully, according as they were west or east of the island. There is moderately good anchorage during the summer season with this opening S. 52° E. in 10 to 11 fathoms; it is easily dis- tinguished, very useful in pointing out a vessel's position, and espe- cially to clear Miscou Flats when working out with a light breeze and flood tide. The remainder of the shore is tolerably bold, with steep, sandy beaches which surround the north end of the island, where sev- eral stores and huts of the fishermen will be seen along the shore. The north point is distinguished by a green mound, or grassy sand hill, and the shallow water does not there extend to more than ^ mile off shore ; but a sandy shoal commences immediately to the eastward of the point, and fronting the outlet of a small lagoon, where there are several fish- ng stores and huts, stretches oft" a mile to the NE. Miscou Banks extend about 22 miles to the eastward of Miscou, and the soundings upon them will afford full and sufticient guidance for a vessel approaching this part of the coast. 94 MIRAMICHI BAY TO GREEN ISLAND. Tlioir nortbern edge, in 30 fathoms, is 7 or 8 miles to the northward of the liglit-hoiiso on Birch Point, and passes tlie north point of Miscou, at tlie distance of 4 miles, into Chaleurs Bay, thus aftbrding excellent guidance to vessels. These banks continue to extend off the coast to the southward, but with more regular soundings and a greater general depth than in the part to which the name of Miscou Banks has been applied. Bay of Chaleurs is the largest bay in the gulf, being 25 miles wide from Cape d'Espoir to Miscou Island ; but the entrance is more gener- ally considered to be at Macqnereau Point, from which the north point of Miscou Island is distant 14^ miles. The depth of the bay from Mis- cou to the entrance of the Restigouche River is about 75 miles. The northern shore of the bay is of moderate height, but an irregular range of hills of considerable elevation is every where visible a few miles back from the coast, the predominating features of which are red cliffs of sandstone and shale, with intervening shingle and sand beaches. Trap rocks and limestone are occasionally met with also, but more sparingly. The southern or New Brunswick shore is, generally speaking, much lower, and for the most part composed of similar rocks ; but between Batliurst and Caraquette the cliffs of red sandstone rise to a height of 200 feet above the sea. The sandstone either belongs to or is very nearly connected with the coal formation, fossil vegetable remains of which, as well as thin veins of bituminous coal, being not unfrequently met with. There are numerous settlements all around the bay, and the several harbors, roadsteads, and rivers are frequented by numbers of vessels engaged in the lumber trade and the fisheries. Tlie climate is warmer and the weather in general much tiner within this bay than it is outside in the adjacent parts of the gulf. The fogs, which prevail so much with southerly winds on the Miscou Banks, sel- dom enter the bay, although rain and mist accompany easterly gales here as elsewhere. The navigation is by no means difficult ; for although there are some dangerous shoals, yet there is everywhere good warning by the lead. Tides. — The tidal streams are regular within the bay, and seldom amount to the rate of one knot per hour ; but outside, off' its mouth, and especially on the Miscou Banks, the currents and tidal streams are so irregular, both in strength and direction, that nothing deflnito can be said of them ; and their dangerous effects upon the course of vestols can only be guarded against by the constant use of the deep-sea lead and attention to the soundings. Directions at Night and in Fogs. — Vessels bound for Chaleurs Bay and approaching its entrance in a dark night or foggy weather should not attempt to make Macqnereau Point, which is so bold that there is little or no warning by the lead ; but should strike soundings on the Miscou Banks, which extend nearly 22 miles to the eastward of Miscou Island. A cautious lookout should be kept for the numerous fishing f ti j rj ^ i^' umw ati Myw BAY OF CHALEUK8 — MI8C0U HARBOR. 96 to the northward I point of Miscou, tl'ordiug excellent il off the coast to a greater general 1 Banks has been ng 25 miles wide ee is more geuer- h the north point he bay from Mis- 75 miles. , but an irregular risible a few miles Bh are red cliffs of d beaches. Trap t more sparingly. speaking, much is ', but between se to a height of gs to or is very table remains of uot unfrequently the bay, and the by numbers of uch finer within gulf. The fogs, jcou Banks, sel- easterly gales ? there are some by the lead, ay, and seldom its mouth, and streams are so definite can be urse of vesbols deep-sea lead r Chaleurs Bay eather should 1 that there is mdings on the if ard of Miscou uerons fishing schooners, which are generally riding on the banks ; and the northern edge of the latter, being followe«l in 30 fathoms of water, will safrly conduct vessels past the north point of Miscou, at the distance of i miles, and form a sure guide up the bay. The bank of soundings off the north shore is also sutticiently wide to guide vessels everywhere within Macquereau Point; nevertlielcss, in a dark night and bad weather, vessels had better not approa(;h the shore much nearer than the depth of 30 fathoms in any part of the biiy to the eastward of Carlisle Point. The soundings are generally of sand and shells on the banks, while in the central parts of the bay black and brown mud pievail, with depths between 30 and 50 fathoms. Within, or to the westward of Carlisle Point, and theop])osite bay of Nipisighit, the depth decreases to less than 30 fathoms, but there is still sulllcient warning everywhere by the lead quite up to the head of the bay. Miscou Harbor, freiiuently called Little Shippegan by the fishermen, lies between Miscou and Shippegan Islands, and just within the sandy spit at the SVV. extreme of Miscou, where the space of deep water, trom 4 to G fathoms, forming the harbor for large vessels, is 400 yards wide and upwards of a mile in length. The harbor for small craft is more extensive, with 2 and 2J fathoms water, and also a narrow channel extending eastward through the fiats of mud and weeds to within a mile of Miscou Gully, which boats can only enter at high water. The bottom within the harbor is soft mud ; in the channel, Just outside the entrance, sand, and between the shoals, farther out, sandstone. Directions. — The Miscou Channel, leading to the harbor, between the Shippegan and the Miscou Flats, is in one part only 350 yards wide, be- tween shoals so steep that there is not the slightest warning by the lead. In short, none other than small vessels should attempt this har- bor without having first buoyed the channel or secured the assistance of a competent pilot. A vessel of 12 feet draft may, however, run in with the assistance of the chart and the following brief directions : If to the eastward of the harbor, cross the Miscou Flats to the SW., at the distance of 3 miles offshore, in no less than 4 fathoms wa- ter; if to the westward, follow the northern edge of the Shippegan Flat, in 4 or 5 fathoms. In either case, open out the NE. extreme of the trees of Shippegan Island, just clear of the SW. extreme of the trees of Miscou Island, or keep the former in one with the extreme of the sandy spit at the SW. end of Miscou Island, the latter being preferable if it can be made out. These marks will bear a little to the eastward of S. 69° B. ; steer for them until the water shoals to less than 4 fathoms, which will be on a point of the Miscou Flats. Sheer to the SW. for about ^ mile, or so as to deepen the water to 4 and 5 fathoms ; then steer S. 64° B. or for Pandora Point, a wooded extreme of Shippegan, ^ mile within Pecten Point, which is the sandy south point of entrance of the harbor. In running this course the vessel will cross a bay in the Miscou Flats i^f 96 MIRAMICHI BAY TO UREBN ISLAND. ill 4 and 5fatlioiiiH; if tliu HOUiidint^H duepcn to more tlitiii tlu^ latter depth at low water, sheer to the eastward, for the object is to keep on the MiNco'.i and least dangerous side of the channel; and that will lie ettected withont dilllcnlty by the load, since there are 8 and 1) fathoms ill the channel. After runiiiii}; a short mile towards Pandora Point, the points on the north side of Shippej;aii will be observed to come in one, bearing S. 4?)'^ VV. ; and about the same time a liifili sand hill, on the sand bars at the heatl of the harlxu', will come on with the high-water extreme of the sandy spit of Miscoii, bearing S. 83° E. The vessel will now beat the narrow part of the channel, and must fol- low the edge of the Miacon Flats by the lead, in from 4 to (J fathoms, sheering to the eastward the instant the depth is more than the latter, and to the westward when less than the former. Tiie general direction of the conrse will be still towards Pandora Point, until the points on the SK. shore of Miscoii within the harbor open out, when the vessel will be in safe anchorage, although outside the entrance. If wishing to proceed farther, hanl up for the high sand hill on the sand bars already mentioned, and when within the sandy point, steer for the gully, for a short distance, choosing a convenient bertli. Tides — The tides appear to set fairly in and out of the harbor, at a rate seldom amounting to a knot. Shippegan Flat is an extensive shoal of sandstone, thinly and l)artly covered with sand. It is the most northern of the Shippegan Shoals, and extends 2'^ miles off the north side of the island, separating the channel leading to the harbors of Caraquette and Shippegan from that which leads into Miscou Harbor. There is good warning by the lead all along its northern side, which may be safely approached to 6 fathoms in a large and to 3 fathoms in a small vessel. Foquesuedie Shoal is an extensive tlat of sand extending 2 miles to the northward and eastward from Poquesuedie Island, and having only C or 7 feet water over the greater part of it. Caraquette Steeple and the sandy SE. extreme of Uaraquette Island in line, bearing S. 03° W. lead over its north point in 2 fathoms at low water ; and if the steeple be kept halfway between the extreme of the sandy point and the extreme of the trees on the same island, the north point of the shoal will be cleared in 4^ fathoms; but as both the sandy point and the trees may change in the course of years, those marks should not be relied on without previous examination. Shippegan Sound. — On the western side, within Poquesuedie Island, is Simon Inlet, the best harbor in the sound. Within its en- trance, between Marcel le and Brule Points, the anchorage is quite land- locked, with water sufficient and space enough for vessels of large draft. On the opposite or Shippegan side are the bays of Aleniek and Little Aleinek. The latter is a shallow place, but has good anchor- age off its mouth. The former, which is most to the southward, and by far the larger bay of the two, is an excellent harbor with 3 and 4 tafc D. )re than tlm latter )juct is to ktH^p on 1; and that will Im ru S and fathoms Is Pandora I'oint, observed to »!oin« 3 a hi^h sand hill, jomo (Ml with the bearing S. 83° B. iinel, and ninst tbl- )ni 4 to (> fathoms, )ro than the latter, e {general direction mtil the points on it, when the vessel ranee. If wisiiing e sand bars already for the gully, for a jf the harbor, at a [stone, thinly and I of the Shippegau a island, separating ul Shippegau from }d warning by the ly approached to 6 extending 2 miles Island, and having Jaraquette Steeple n line, bearing S. water ; and if the sandy point and point of the shoal point and the trees d not be relied on thin Poquesuedie Within its en- rage is quite laud- vessels of large bays of Alemek has good anchor- iouthward, and by )or with 3 and 4 HHII'PEGAN HARHOK — CARAyUKTTK ISLAND. 97 fathoms vor, and secure in all winds. There is a chunih and village of A(!adian.s at the head of this bay; and on Alexander Point, its north |)oiiit. stands the establishmtMit of Mr. Alexander. There isa l)ar of sand and mud extending across the sound from Alexander Point to Brule Point, which limits the depth that can be (Mrrietl into Alemek Bay to 2'f fathoms; and into Shippegau Harbor to 'J^ fatlioiiis at low water. Shippegan Harbor. — On the mainland, nearly o|)i)(>site the south point of Alemek Hay, there is a windmill on Bornaclie Point, the sandy north point of Basse Bay. On the soiitii |>oiiit of this l»ay stands the church and village of Shippegan, and oil" them is Shippegau Harbor, which is a narrow channel with '2S to 1 fatiioms water, and between shoals of mud and eelgrass nearly dry at low tide. This narrow chan- nel cuitiiiues 2, but the pa.ssage is narrow and without leading marks. For 3 miles the breadth of the channel between the shoals is only \ to !\ mile. Four buoys mark the edges of the shoals and render the navigation comparatively easy. Tides. — It would require a much longer experience than was afforded by the few weeks employed in the Admiralty survey' to be fully ac- quainted with the set of the tides in the entrance of the Oaracpiette and Shippegan Channels, where they doubtless change with the time of tide and other circumstances. The rate of the tides, however, .sel- dom exceeded a knot even in the channels, where of course they are stronger than elsewhere. In Shippegan Harbor the stream was very regular in fine weather, running in at the gully and to the northward, through the sound, into Ohaleurs Bay from about half ebb to half Hood by the shore, and in the reverse direction, or to the southward, from about hivlf flood to half ebb. It is high water, full and change, in Shippegau Harbor at 3h. 42m., which is about an hour later than at Caraqiiette and Paspebiac; springs rise 54 or 6 feet, neaps 3 feet. Shippegan Sound. — Ice. —The sound is usually frozen over about 1st December and clear of ice about lOth May, being completely closed between those dates. The tirst vessel arrives from sea about 21st May and the last one leaves about 13th November. In 1870 fleld ice drifted into Shippegau Sound on 14th .May and «lid not disappear until 4th June. Caraquette Island is of sandstone, low and wooded, and 1.^ miles long in a direction nearly parallel to the coast. Sandy points extend from both ends of the island towards the mainland, or to the southward, 5489 7 98 MIKAMICHI BAY To (iRKKN ISLAM). (toiiH to form It l))i,v,iii which thitrti \h Imidlockcd aiiulioiaKc for vchnoIs not t'i>th of 3 fathoms to 3 fathoms. There are no marks for it. Its northern edge is distant 3 miles from Caraquette Tsland, and its east and west ends bear north from the corresponding points of the island. The points of cliff's at Great Anse and Doua Point in one, bearing S. 77° W., lead through Fisherman Channel, which, however, has not been examined very closely, and can not in any case be recommended to ves- sels of large draft. Caraquette Channel, between the Poquesuedie and Caraquette Shoals, forms the entrance to the harbor of Caraquette for a distance of 2j miles, and has water enough for vessels of the largest draft ; but it is crooked and only 450 yards wide between very steep shoals, and without sufficient leading marks, hence it becomes a very difficult chan- nel. Caraquette Harbor may be said to commence immediately within or to the westward of Poquesuedie island, extending westward between the maiidand and the Caraquette Shoal and Island. The church at Caraquette will be seen standing conspicuously on the ridge nearly opposite to Mizzenette Point, and the houses and fish stores of Lower Caraquette nearlj' opposite to the island. In the eastern part.of the harbor, immediately within Poquesuedie, the depth is o and fathoms, and there is not less than 3^ fathoms till within i mile of the SE. point of the island. Between the islandand the main the channel is only 250 yards wide and carries only 2J fathoms water ; but farther westward it increases to J mile and 4^ fathoms water, and is there sheltered by the Mizzenette sands, which dry at low water nearly across to the island. The bottom is of mud within the harbor and of sand in the entrance, or Caraqnette Channel. CAKAt^UHTTE IIAItUUR — DIHKCTIONS. 1)9 ;t» for \ t'ssi'ls imt [>tu III! (txt(;ii.sivu iind \vlii(;|i, foiii- I i»aral!('l to tliu , a (liHtancc of 8 1 of tlio islatii], I till' (iJHtancu of tMid CaiiKjiictte otte Inland are lid L'oqnosticdie lead totlici east- e Mbip requiring ;lie eantward by ing S. 2o K. feet least water, iparated from it •rioH from 4 to 7 e in tlie way of and !^ mile wide 10 marks for it. ud, and its east 8 of tlie island, one, bearing S. )r, lias not been mended to ves- id Caraqiiette I for a distance rest draft ; but ep sboals, and difflcnltcbau- .tely within or ward between The church at ridge nearly ores of Lower rn part, of the nd a fathoms, the SE. point el is only 2.50 ir westward it jltered by the to the island. the entrance, Caraquette Bay extends 4 or ri miles to tin- wt^stwardof Mizzcnette Point, being all shoal watiT exci-pt the narrow channel of the harl»or and terminating in the two shallow rivers, the South and the North, in the inoiitlis of which there are oyster beds. Tlie best watering place is at a siuhII stream which descends the steep banks at Ifpper ('araqnette, near Hrideau Point. Ice.— The harbor is usually frozen over about llth I)e(!ember, and clear of uw about 8th May, being completely closed between those dates. Tiie (Irst vessel arrives from sea about l-'th May, and the last one leaves about 2.'>th November. Directions.— If bound from the eastward, having brought the en* trance of Miscou Harbor to bear to the eiistward of S. 2P I'}., stand in towards it to 8 fathoms water; then run to the westward in that de|>tU until the NK. extreme of the trees of Shippegan Island opens to the southward of the SW. extreme of Miscou Island, bearing S. «5o E., when, if the weather be clear, Caraquette steeple will be seen in line with the north extreme of Caraquette Island, bearing S. 51° W. From thence steer for Blanchard Point, the wooded north extreme of Pocpie- suedie Island, which may or may not be made out, as it will be on with the mainland and distant 7 or 8 miles. Do not a|>proach the Shippe- gan Flat nearer than the depth of 7 fathoms, and having run about 3^ miles, Marcelle Point, the wooded SE. extreme of Poquesuedie Island, will be in line with Poquesuedie Point, which is the sandy east extreme of the same island. These points in line bearing south will lead westward of the NW. ex- treme of the Shippegan Flat. Steer for these points in line until Cara- quette steeple comes in line with the SB. extreme of the trees of Cara- quette fsland, bearing S. 03° W., immediately after which, or when the north extreme of Shipjiegan is in line with the south extreme of Mis- cou, bearing N. 74° E., steer towards Blanchard Point, bearing S. 37° W. IJaviiig run not coint'M in lino witii tho uliil' of Itriih'siii I'oint, Itoiirin^ 8. Tf W. Alter tlio conrHt* uKain ini- nnHliiitoly tlic liiMt-niitncMl iniirks (M)ni«« in lin*', and intoor tor tlh'ni tor <{ iniUs tluMi Mlu'or to tho Hontliwiirtl ii little, ho tliiit th» Mteeple iiiuy bw Hccii u little within an*l over the extremity of the point, or in line with tlie Htore npon it ; keep it ho nntil the clitVy points on the SK nide of CariKpn'tte IhIsiihI are all nlint in behind tlie east point of the isliind, anil it will have led elear of the Honth extremity of the ('arutpiette Shoiil. Tiie vessel will now be in nafe aiuthora^e, and a Iterlh may be chosen at pleasure with the asHintanue of the chart, and in from 1 to '2^ fathoms at low water. Mizzenette Ledge of rockn, with T) feet leant water, bearn X. 4'P \V. 1\ miles from the west end of (7ara(iiiette Island, and a vt'ssel will pass to the northward of it, in .'M fathoms, by keeping Dona Point.just open to the northward of Mi/,zeiiette Point, luMirin^ S. H.'Jo VV. Tlu'se marks will alst) lead to the eastward alou); the northern ed^re of theCaraqnette Shoal until they strike Scallop Patirli, wliitdi has 10 feet least water over a rocky bottom; and on whittli tlie NW. extreme of Caraijuette Island and Caracpu'tte Steeple are in line, the SIC. extreme of the island beariii),' S. 4'^ VV'., distant nearly 2 miles. The marks for clearing the northern edjje of the Caraqnette Shoal, to the eautwurd of Scallop patch, and in .'i fathoms water, are the south extreme of Miscou Island kept plainly oi)en to the northward of the north point of ShippeKan Island, bearing; N. 74° K. But those marks are low and distant, and often not well dellned, therefore they should not be trusted alone, neither will they be reipiired if the northern edjje of the shoal be not api>roa(rhed nearer than the d«'pth of 4 fathonm at low water. Norton Shoal, carrying; 3 fathoms water, and lyiii}; 'i of a mile ot} shore, one mile to the westward of Norton Point, and U miles eastward of the NipiHighit, is the only dan^^er in the way of vessels alonp; the coast from Mizzenette Point to Bathurst Harbor, a distance of 2.1 nnles. The Coast, which for the most |)art is of high sandstone clitls, is very low near Mizzenette Point ; and about 3 miles to the westward of that point, where the sandy cliffs end, the shoal water extends to ^ mile from the shore ; but in |ruiii>ral it docs not extend to more than half that distance, and the coast may everywhere be approached by the lead to 10 or 12 fathoms with care, the greater depth being quite near enough at niy;ht time. There are settlements all along the coast, and villages and llsliing establishments at Great Anseand Pokeshaw. Great Anse, where there is a church, is 8 miles, and Pokeshaw 11 miles westward of Mizzenette Point. There are small bays at both places where boats find shelter, and a small river at Pokeshaw. Bathurst Harbor, at the mouth of the Ni|)isighit River, is 400 yards wide at the entrance between Alston and Carron Points, which are of sand, with several stores and other buildings upon them (1800). ^Ss* BATHirRST IIARHOR — HKRON IHLAND. 101 I \hw with tliu ii'Ho i\\tii\\\ iiii- tor tlh'in lor Jf (tt'cpli^ limy b« or ill liiit^ with lit« NK. Hidti of t of tli'^ VV. ■CMHOI will pIlSH 'oillt jllHt 0|)(MI Tiicsu timrkH tlU'ClUlKHUlttO •list wiitcr over luiiu'ttci Isltuul of Mie ishviKl :n for cloiu'iiif; 'anl of Sjiullop Mis<;ou IhUiikI : of Shippefrau (1 (liNtant, and triiHted alone, e HJioal 1)0 not liter. 1'^ of a mile off niles ciiHtward Isels along the ice of 2.» miles, le (!litt8, is very stward of that nds to ^ mile than half that |by the lead to near enough , and villages (jlreat Anse, 8 westward of where boats ^r, is 4(K> yards which are of 1(1800). The lightlioiiHeN kept in line will lead in through the imrrow clmiinel over the l»ar in 7 feet at low watt>r, or in 1 1 feet at high wat;-i' in the beHt Hpring tides. The distance trotii the outsulr of tlie bar in .'i lath* ouiM to Mie entraiiee of the riviTls l,j inlleN; and for the whole of that distaii(;u the very narrow channel -< between sandy shoah, nearly dry at low water, and extending from fitlierside of the tivrr's month. Within the entraiKie there is an extensive anil well shellereil bitsin, nearly .'< inileN long and 2 miles widt^ but nearly all dry at low water, excepting thtt cliannels of the four rivers, whicrli, alter uniting their streams beh)W Batlinrst, How through it to the entrance, Idiining by theirjuiictioii what is called the Main (Miannel. On the eastern sitle of the basin tliere is an islet (!alled tliu Imlian or liathiirst Island. The town of Uathurst is well situated at the head of the basin, 2^ miles within the entrance, and oii the point of land wlii(;h divides the Hiver Nipisighit tVom the Middle and N.n-th Rivers. Anchorage. — In the entrance between the sandy points, or rather just outside it, there are.'iand 4 fathoms water; and here vessels usually moor to take in timber, sheltered by the bar and the sandy shoals on either side. Some of the larger ones complete their loading outside the bar, where the anchorage, in U or 7 fathoms, muddy bottom, is con- sidered safe in the summer months, although the NK. gales send in a heavy se;i. Pilots. — There are good pilots for the Hiver Nipisighit, and no one should attem|)t the bar without one, excei>tingin case of necessity. Tides. — It is high water, full and change, at Bathurst at 3 h. 1 .*» m.; springs rise 7 feet, neaps 4 feet. The rate of the tides in the main chan- nel is about 2 knots, and over the bar about \ft knots. The stream sets fair in and out and over the bar. Belledune Point is 13 miles from Heron Island, and the extreme seen from it is low and sandy, and has shoal water oil it to the east* ward ''^ mile. At 8 miles to the southward of this point, on the west- ern shore of Nipisighit Bay, is the chnrch and village of Kochette ; and 8.<{ miles farther in the sane direction is the entrance of the Nipisighit River at the head of the bay. The whole of this coast is low, and com- posed of sandstone, limestone, and trap rocks. The shoal water gen- erally extends to ^ mile from the shore ; and vessels of large draft had better not stand nearer than the depth of 10 fathoms, especially at night, unless it be in the head of the bay, where they may safely ap- proach the sandy beach to 7 or 6 fathoms. Heron Island. — Heron Island, at 5:^ miles to the southward of Tra- cadigash Point, is of moderate height, wooded, and with red sandstone clilfs at both its NVV. and SE. points. Shoal water extends off both those points at the distance of ^ mile ; »« it does also all along the northern side of the island, where the 3-fathoms line of soundings is ^ mile out from the shore. The island is 4 miles long, i)arallel to the coast, and there is gooi\ anchorage in the channel between it and the .■t«p*wtfr>r'Eft".^:cT""'^ ■•■I I: t 102 MIRAMIf'HI BAY TO GREEN ISLAND. mainland ; but the channel is rendeivl narrow and difficult by shoals, which extend a great distance out on either side. Heron Channel — At the western end the cliannel is only 40U yards wide, with ."{ fathoms water in it. It becomes wider to the eastward, and the deptlis are 4 and 5 fathoms; but there the dangerous Heron Kock lies, nearly in mid-channel, and consequently right in the way of vessels. When on this small rock, which has feet least water, and 4 or b fathoms all around it, the SB. extreme of Heron Island bears N. 44° E., about one mile ; the nearest sandj' south point of Heron Island N. li3o W., 1,200 yards; Beaver Point S. 18° W., ^ mile; and a rock lying 600 yards north of Beaver Point and almost always above water, S. 67<^ VV , 700 yards. This latter rock, which lies on tiie edge of the shoal oft' the mainland, is quite bold; and a vessel, by sailing within the distance of 300 yards of it, will pass to the southward of the Herou Bock ; as she will also to the northward, by running along the southern edge of the shoal oft" the island, in 3 fathoms at low water. But this is an intricate and dangerous channel for a vessel of any size, and requires the aid of a good pilot. Anchorage. — Vessels occasionally anchor, for the purpose of load- ing with timber, in the bay of Nash Kiver, in 4 fathoms, mud bottom, where they are much exposed to easterly winds, but the ground is so good that they ride safely during the summer months. At this anchor- age the east point of Heron Island bears N. 37° W., 2^ miles; and Black Point N. 08° W., one mile. The shoal water extends off Fowler Point a mile out to the 3-fathom line of soundings. There is also good anchorage in 4 fathoms, mud bottom, to tiie westward of Heron Island, and nearly midway between it and the River Charlo. Tiiis river will only admit boats. Carleton Road. — This name has been given to an excellent and capacious anchorage safe in all winds. It is situated on the west side of Tracadigash Point, which consists of silnd, inclosing a shallow lagoon, capahlo of admitting boats, or very small craft, at high water. On the northern shore of this lagoon stands the church and village of Carleton, the latter extending to the westward to the shore of the bay, where the sand beach of the lagoon joins the mainland. A small stream, with a bridge across it, there enters the NW. corner of the lagoon ; and one mile farther to the westward, near the commencement of the Clay Clitts, another small stream will be seen, which is the watering place. Immediately in rear of the village, the Carleton Mountain rises abruptly to the height of 1,830 feet above the level of the sesi — the hills of the range trending from it both to the northward and westward for many miles. Anchorage. — Vessels may anchor anywhere in from 5 to 6 fathoms, remembering that although the sandy beach of Tracadigash Point is quite bold on the west side within the spit, yet shoal water extends olf the mainland to the distance of nearly i mile. The best berth, espe- D. lifflcult by shoals, l is only 400 yards ' to tiie eastward, dangerous Heron nght in the way of least water, and 4 [aland bears N. 44° ; of Mer<)n Island \ mile ; and a rock ways above water, )n tlie edge of the by sailing within ward of the Heron iilong the southern V water. But this }1 of any size, and B purpose of load- oius, mud bottom, the ground is so s. At this anchor- W., 2^ miles ; and ut to the 3-fathom n 4 fathoms, mud y midway between boats. an excellent and I on the west side closing a shallow aft, at high water, rch and village of ! shore of the bay, . A small stream, r of the lagoon ; neiicement of the is the watering ;on -Mountain rises 1 of the sea — the ard and westward >ni 5 to G fathoms, cadigash Point is water extends oti" best berth, espe- CAKLETON ROAD — DALHOUSIE IIAKBOK. 10.5 cially with easterly* winds, is in 5k fathoms, mud, with Tra(!ailigash Point bearings. 38^ R. ; Carleton steeple N. 78^ K, ; and tlie watering place N. 37° W. Tides. — The tides are weak in Carleton Itoad, seldom exceeding one knot. Maguacha Point, of red sandstone cliffs, is the NE. point of en- trance of the liiver liestigouclie, atul bears frou) Tracadigasii Point S. 81° W., ()A miles. In the X\V. corner of the bay between them is uew basin and river, nearly dry at low water. Directions. — Tracadigash 8pit, of sand, aiul running out fi mile to the SW. from the sandy point of the same name, is the only danger in the way when approaching the anchorage in Carleton lioad from the eastward. Observe that Maguacha Point and the summit of Dal- housie Mountain in line, bearing S. 83*^ W., pass the extremity of the spit in 3 fathoms. Therefore, to clear it keep the 'nountain well open, or at night go no nearer than 10 or 9 fathoms water. As soon as Carle- ton steeple comes in line with the southwest extreme of Tracadigash Point, bearing N. M3° E., the spit will have been passed, and the vessel may haul in to tiie northward, going no nearer than 7 fathoms till the point bears to the southward of east. Bonami Rocks.— The entrance of the Restigouche River, between Maguacha Point and the Bonami Rocks, is nearly two miles wide. The rocks are steep and high, and so rough and broken that a stranger would be led to expect danger on their side iustead of on the opi)osite, where the steep red cliffs of Maguacha Point give the usual, although in this case deceptive, indications of a clear channel. Tiie extreme point of the Bonami Rocks may be safely passed within the distance of 400 yards, but shallow water extends from the rocks to Bonami Point, from which a reef runs J mile, aiul the shoal continues from it to Dalhousie Island. Maguacha Spit, of sand and stones with only H feet at low water runs out nearly a mile to the west from Maguaciia Point, or towards the Bonami Hocks, thus occujyying fully half the channel. To clear the SW. extreme of this steep aiid dangerous spit, keep the highest summit of the Scaumenac Mountains open to tlie SW. of Dalhousie Island ; tor the summit of the mountain and the south side of the island in one, bearing X. 08° W., lead over the extieme end of the spii; in 34 fathoms. The eastern side of the sjjit will be avoided l)y not entirely shutting in the south extreme of the Carleton Mountains be- L h\ the east side of Maguacha Point. Dalhousie Harbor. — Dalhousie (Douglas) Island, 400 yards long, is high and rocky, round-backed and wooded, and joined by a shoal, which dries, to the low jmint of Dalhousie. On that point there are large storehouses belonging to the town of Dalhousie, which with its church will be seen situated on the side of a hill to the SW. of the island. Westward of Dalhousie Island there is a small rocky islet at 1U4 MIRAMICHl BAY TO GUEEX ISLAND. i I the oxtremity ot a uarroNv san.ly spit fonniii- tbe western side of the Zlr'l ; ; " ^'V ''""''"''''• ^'"^ «'^""«^^ ^^'*^'^'- -steads from the iHlet to the island, and the timber ships lie moore• «f P'i^^i^g over a Hat ol .{ fathoms at low water, is the route usually taken, because of there be.ng plenty of room there, whereas the channel firs mentioned IS only 3()() yards whle. The naz-row channel has, however, the a.lvl!:^ tage ot g()o miles to the NW, of the former, is the small river Caplin, remarkable only for a reef whi(;h lies oft" its mouth i mile from the shore. Anchorage. — There is good anchorage under Bonaventure Point, with easterly winds, in tathoms, mud bottom, with the point bearing i ii_. PA8PEBIAC BAY — CARLISLE. 107 13 miles wiile Kivor, a conaid- in consequence 2 miles from its Point, bold and >ointof thebay. if JMack Point, :liey extend out iiage from SE. apediac River, the eastward i River, stands ostly of French II the way from of the bay. In ill be seen 2 or ere the timber 1 Duthio Point Black Point 8 . loms, but they eastward, ob- re of the shoal nchorage from \'»r(l of Black ell open as the no nearer the ears N. S'io E. ntil the vessel e cliif, with a V shells. The atct', toj^ether f of the same d of the point, ly a mile, and nearly to Red s to the NV7. ily for a reef inture Point, [)oint bearing S. 74° B.. the church N. 27° E., and the entrance of the river N. 61° E., li miles. Faspebiac Bay.— Paspebiao has an excellent roadstead, and is the princii»al fishing establishment in Chaleurs Bay. A triangular point of sand and shingle beach, inclosing a lagoon, extends out from the niaiii- laiid to the distance of a mile, and has on its west side several buildings together witn numerous huts belonging to the fishermen. On the west side of the sandy point, and close to the cliffs, the lagoon has an outlet, which has a rough bridge across it, and will admit boats at high water. In rear of this the mainland rises from the edge of dark red sandstone .cliffs. , Carlisle, the county town, with its jail and court-house, stan(iing on the ridge in rear of Carlisle Point, are seen from the anchorage. Car- lisle Point, which is wooded, and consists of sand, is distant 3* miles from the sandy point of Paspebiac, and the roadstead is between them, but much nearer the latter. In this excellent and convenient anchorage vessels are sheltered from the west, round north and east, to SE.; and, although it is completely o|)en to the SW. winds, which send in a very considerable swell, yet the ground is so good that the Jersey vessels ride here moored all through the season without accident. Anchorage.— The best anchorage is in G fathoms, clay bottom, with Robin's flagstaff", the most eastern one adjacent to the store with a green verandah, and Single Tree Point (the extreme to the eastward seen over the sandy point) in line, liearing N. 67° E. and the extremity of the sandy point, 8.07° B. A sandy spit extends under water rather more than ^ mile to the westward from the sandy point and nearly as far to the southward likewise; it is marked by a red buoy at its western ex- treme. Supplies.— At Paspebiac there is an excellent watering place at a stream which will be seen falling from the cliff's just to the westward of tlie outlet of the lagoon. Supplies of all kinds may be obtained here, but to a limited extent. The United States is represented by an agent. Directions.— VVhen the vessel has passed Nouvelle River and is ap- proacliing within 2 or 3 miles of the point, keep the summit of Daniel Hill open to the southward of Nouvelle Point, bearing N. 49° B., until the easternmost church is seen well open to the westward of tli<^ south extremity of the sandy point, north. Then steer for Carlisle Point, keeping the lead going till Le Boutellier'a store is on with the above- mentioned church. Steer in now for the anchorage, taking care not to open out the same church to the westward of the store until Single Tree Point (the extreme to the westward) is well shut in behind the sandy point, when the ves- sel will be within the spit, and a berth may be chosen by the lead, or by a bearing of the lighthouse, at or near the position already pointed out. ftC^^^^t^r^-^^SSjis-"' ' \% V 108 MIRAMICHI BAY TO OKEEN ISLAND. >! Nouvelle River, 5 mik>s eastward uf Paspebiac Point, Iuih only 2 feet over itH bar at low water, and will be known by tbe ti8h Htorea and stages on 1 he sandy bead' on the east ijide ot its entrance. Tbe west- ern side is formed by Nouvelle Point, wbich is a higb cliff of red sand- stone. Port Daniel is a tine bay, o|)en to tbe eastward, and about H miles wide and deep. In the nortberu corner of tbe bay, ^ mile witbin Wbite Point, which is high and of wbite limestone, a small river enters. tbe bay through a sandy beacb after descending a valley between wooded bills. There are many liouses and stores near tbe entrance of tbe river, wbich will oidy admit boats at higb water, being nearly dry when tbe tide is out. A shoal extends !^ mile from the shore all around tbe port south- westward from White Point to West Point. West Point is of craggy gray limestone, with a high and remarkable semi-isolated rock at its SE. extremity ; on its north side there is a small cove and a good laud- ing for boats. Daniel Hill, about one mile to the westward of West Point, annch have been perforated through it by the waves and through one of which a boat can pass at high water. Between this rock and White Head is the Bay of Perc6, having a reef at the distance of ^ mile to the SW. of Perc6 Rock and extending out nearly ^ mile from the shore. Small vessels engaged in the fisheries anchor on either side of this reef, with winds off the land, but it is a dangerous place and not to be recommended for large vessels. Percd, principally inhabited by persons engaged in the fisheries, occupies the shores of the bay, and Mont Perc4, or, as it is sometimes calleil, the Table Roulante, rises immediately from it. A reef connects the Perce Rock with Perc4 Point, and off the NB. side of the latter small vessels anchor with westerly winds. Tides — There is generally a regular tide of flood and ebb of about a knot between Bonaventure Island and the mainland ; the flood tide running to the SW. round Cape d'Espoir and up the Bay of Chaleurs; and the ebb in the contrary direction . Two or 3 miles outside, or to the eastward of Bonaventure Islaiul, the current will often be found running to the southward out of the St. Lawrence. Mai Bay is between 5 and 6 miles wide by 4 miles deep and entirely open to the SE. On its SW. side, and under the Perc6 Mountains, there are maguificent cliffs 6C« feet in perpendicular heiglit above tlie sea. Its NE. side has low clifts of samlstoue, with occasional beaches. A fine broad sandy beach extends across the head of the bay and I t "A i! no MIRAMICHI HAY TO GREEN ISLAND. indoHes a Hhallow lagoon. A cousidorable river and Heveral Hinall 8tr(MraH (ILsKhurtj^e tlieir waters into tlie lajijoon, wliiuli lias an ontlet in the NVV. corner of the bay, called the Tickle, admitting boats 't high water and in line weather. Th«>t of water ean be carried in niid-cliannel. The deep-water part of the 8\V. Ann, which continucH for ^ mile within the entramtc, \h named (iaspe Hasin ; it Iuih a depth of tVom '» tolM'atlioniH, over a mud bottom, and is sntllcicntly capacious to hold a great nnud)er of veNsels. Boats can ascenti HW. Arm by a narrow channel, between shoals, about S miles, as in the NW. Arm, and tlie navigation, for all but canoes or tiat- b«>ttom boats, is termimited by shallow channels. Above this part of the river it becomes contracted and rapid, and the water fresh. Supplies. — A small rivulet in the bay, on the inside of the south point of the entramu* of afe ' «» !i80! ia » Ma »B >5t^ ^ CAPE R08IKH — IRIOATK POINT. 11.-? iniml, wliicli Ih 120 yanlH; and i|»-wat»M' part of raiMH*, '\H naiiKMi a iiiiul bottom, VUHMt'ls. HoatM Hlioals, about 3 t caiioiis or Hat- >vo tliiH part of r fresh. of tllM HOUtb iniont watering )He (»f the NW. 'al of tliein are II Hiiiall Ncbooii- he bay outHide, lt8. and ebb in th? iiiiH of the tiuOK spectinpf theiD. ptiiig near the e or no couHe- Htrongly past the ebb tide, be remembered This current, 8oath and SE., at from above le entrance of iiiteunmanage- gbt in it, close breeze blow- At such times e arms, which he outer part even at times »oint St. Peter. SW. Cape Gasp^ e only a brief erpent Reef — approach the great heigbt, aiitl witlioiit iM'ach. After heavy rains, waterfalls, which are not to bti MfiMi at other times, descend from great heiglits, and small bays, willi sandy beach and rapid streams at their head, occur occasionally; yet these features are not generally so strongly marked as to enable a stranger to make out one part of this (;oast from another with facility. Caution. — Along the coast between (Jape (tasp*\ and (Jape Oliatte the water is everywhere too deep to afford snlllcieiit warning by the lca(t for the safety of vessels. The shore along its whole extent, excepting in some of the bays, is of highly inclined slate and graywacke rocks, which wonhl cut through a vessel's l>otto!n in a very short time; and HU(!li is the iiatiir" of the (Miuiitry that those who might es( ape to shore would run a great risk of peiisliiiig from want before they could reach a settlement. Cape Rosier is low, and of graywacktt and slate rocks. The shoal water does not extend oil' it above )^ mile, but in the bay to the south- ward of it, at the distance of 1] miles, there is a reef which runs out A mile from the shore. Vessels may Mud shelter under Cape {{osier from NW. winds, but the ground is not very good, and the easterly swell that frequently rolls in renders it a dangerous anchorage. There are tlshing establishments on the cape and in its vicinity. OrifBn Cove and River. — A small bay here atlbrds shelter to thu boats of the fishermen, whose houses will be seen around it. There are from 2 to .'5 fathoms water in this bay, over sandy bottom. Supplies. — This bay is of no use to shijiping, e\(!ept to obtain sup- plies of water, wood, and occasionally fresh provisions. Pox River is u mere brook, which enters a small bay about J{ mile wide and J mile deep. Oft" each point of the bay there are reefs, which diminish the breadth of the entrance to less than i mile and afford shelter to boats and to small schooners in from 2 to 2|V fathoms, over a bottom of fine dark sanil. Round the head of the bay there is a flue sandy beach. Supplies. — In fine summer wesither a vessel might anchor off Fox River and obtain water, wood, and supplies of fresh provisions, but it is otherwise of no use to shipping. Serpent Reef, the only danger on this coast, extends from Fox Point to Cape Serpent, its outer edge being nowhere more than J mile from the shore. G-reat Pond is a small creek which affords shelter only to boats, and will be known by the houses and stages of the fishermen. The creek is 16 miles from Fox River, and here, as well aa in every other cove along this coast to the westward, are seen the neat houses of the Canadian fishermen, by wliich the bays are so distinctly marked that a ship's position in clear weather may easily be determined by bear, ingsof them, and of the beacons on the coast. Prigate Point is marked by a white beacon 38 feet high. It may also be recognized by a conspicuous waterfall west of the point. 5489 8 I)' ^^^^V«e^J^»:*di'^^i^ - :if4:'«^ ■iaiiiRlESio.rf.Vc ■ .M;5*>r.-- ■ 114 MIHAMU'III HAY TO GRKKN INLAND. Magdalen Rivor.— TItf moiitli ol' tliis rivor in on tliu NW. Hide of II Hiiixly Way, liiul cIuhu uii«lor (7a|M> Msi^lK,,a^JL-l^u^^3^l^aBa hwg l ^(a ^^a«i»^l>ww>i8tt^^MB^^ . » the NW. Mitl« li Im I'orkj, with (liMtiiiKu^ t'roiii It r«)cks, whirh Ih lulcii, alioiit 100 US the iMitnuico iViU wide lit tliu I, for a Hhort *liH- iiid. Fartlu'r ui» is river, whiiiii is ey wiirp in when not deep, Itcint; I mile to the Sli. , over u bottom itiince of H mile :)rage, which may ) Htream of tlootl .^ miles from the with the almost feet high, jice, and capable are 7 feet in the u. which this river may anchor in it )ttoni, nearer the cellent but since 8 from the west, and therefore it ere by a wind ou sto]) for a few ne weather, and Hsel off this part lu the high laud Matte or Pleur • id the two others )d anchorage ex. e the mountains in height. There the coast, named seen from a dis- 8T. ANNE MOUNTAINH — MAlANK UIVER. tance of HO to 00 miles, under favorable (tircnmstances; and their high- est peak, wiiieh is alMiiit 14 miieM iteiiind Cape Chatte, rises .'t,070 feet abovt> sea. St Anne River, which is iA-'fi»-J^«"-w.'-"''-*.t'ce«!«>-*v/-iS.-- i 116 MIRAMICHI BAY TO GREEN ISLAND. lying ou the sand, which diminish the depth 2 feet, and are extremely dangerous when there is any swell. The bar is continually shitting from the etiVcts of gales of wind, so that no directions can be given for sailing in. A can buoy, painted black, is moored in 7 fathoms, about f of a mile oft' shore, northward of the entrance to Mataue liiver. Pilots reside here and no vessel should attempt the entrance without one. Supplies of provisions can usually be obtained at Matano River, and it will be easily made out from a vessel, since the entrance shows plainly. The clifty mound on the west side of the entrance and the buildings and large stone church will also serve to point it out. Matane is the name of the seignory containing about oOU inhabitants, most of whom live by the combined means of tishing, farming, and pi- loting. The soil is good and gives good crops of wheat and other grain^ excepting in batl seasons. Anchorage. — Outside the bar there is anchorage in 5 fathoms J mile off" shore, and in JO fathoms a little further out, the bottom being of sand and clay. Littlft Metis Bay is small and divided into two rocky coves which are open to the eastward, and dry at low water. The coast ^'rom Ma- tane to Metis is low, rocky, wooded, unbroken, and nay be approached with care by the le.ad, the bank of soundings becoming gradually wider as we proceed to the westward. Little Metis River, a small stream, is at the head of the southern cove. There are several buildings and a fishing establishment on Metis Point, the outer extreme of the bay. A reef, which is bold on the north side, and has some of its rocks always above water, extends from this point nearly ^ mile to the eastward, and enables small vessels to re- main at anchor in 3 fathoms, over mud bottom, with the wind as far to the northward as NW. In this berth vessels lie midway between the eastern end of the reef and a large round rock near the shore on the SE. side of the bay. Larger vessels may anchor further out in 5 or 6 fathoms water, but not in the stream of the reef, where the ground is foul and rocky. Grand Metis Bay is separated from Little Metis by Metis Point- Grand Metis Uiver, a small stream is near the west end of the bay, and is nearly dry outside of the very narrow entrance at low water. The bay is rather more than Smiles wide, and f mile deep; but it is all shoal. Small vessels may anchor in S^ or 4 fathoms, under its east point, close to the edge of the shoal water, and in tolerable shelter from winds along the coast, but there is no shelter for shipping. Nevertheless, vessels lie here all the summer months for the purpose of taking in timber. They are usually moored in G fathoms, at low water, over mud bottom, and with the river bearing about south, distant li miles. Cock Cove aftbrds good anchorage for schooners, in 3 fathoms at ow water, well sheltered from the winds along the coast. The summit .j-«w.MJMi'j ini Bic to Green md and Razade 3 liock it is free I from danger to small vessels, which may stand close in ; but vessels of large draft should not stand in farther than 7 fathoms at low aiul fathoms at high water, because of a long ridge of rocky ground, ex- tending ri miles N. 45^ E. from the XIO. Razade Islet, with 17 feet least water near its eastern eiul. To clear every part of this ridge keep Basque Island its own breadth open to the northward of the NK. Bazade. Razade Islets are two large rocks about ^ roile long ; they are low, bare of trees, and 1^ miles apart. There is no passage for vessels be- tween them and the shore. Basque Island, is rocky, wooded, and uninhabited, and there is no passage for ships between it and the shore. Shoals. — The shoal water extends ^ mile to the northward of Basque Island, and there is a reef of rocks to the westward of its western point. On the west«rn extremity of this reet, and about 1,201) yards distant from the island, is a round rock, which shows at half tide. Apple Island is formed by one principal and several smaller rocks; the whole about one mile long by 300 yards wide. Ic is 30 or 40 feet above the sea at high water, without any trees, and distant 2^ miles from the nearest point of the mainland. There is no passage for ships between it and the shore, but its north side is bold-to. Green Island has a long and narrow point of rocks, always above water, and running out more than ^ mile from the trees towards Apple Island. Half this distance towards Apple Island is occupied by reefs of slate, which dry at low water. The line of shoal water is continuous from each of these islands to the other, and may be safely approached with care to 7 fathoms at low or 10 fathoms at high water ; as may also the islands. Oreen Island Reef, which is extremely dangerous, extends from the lighthouse northward 1^ miles to the 3-fathom line of soundings Its shape is irregularly triangular, and the rocks on it dry at low water nearly ^ mile out from the high-water mark. On the eastern side this reef may be safely approached to the depth of 7 or eyen 6 fathoms at low water, but on the north and west sides there is no bottom with the hand lead until close to it. To avoid Green Island Beef in the daytime and clear weather keep the summit of the high land to the southward of Cape Arignole (or the high land of Bic) open to the northward of Basque Island. Anchorage. — There is excellent anchorage in westerly winds under Green Island Reef, and it is the general rendezvous of vessels waiting for the Hood to beat through between Green and Red Islands. Vessels should not anchor with the light bearing to the westward of S. 29° W. or in less than 7 fathoms at low water. If they wish still more room, they may choose their berth in 9, 10, or 11 fathoms, and will find a bottom of stiff mud in either depth.t Tides.— Ft is higli witer, fall ati I change, at Green Island at 2h. .ifsJ^iSffiifs- 'im^ms&maia&iijmmsr;, »..-'i,i* 122 MIRAMICHI BAY TO ORKEN ISLAND. 45rii.; ami ordinary springs rise 16 feet, and neaps 9^ feet. At tlie an- chorage northward of Green Island the first of the Hood was observed to come from the northward; then tending gradually round to the SB. at the end of the tide. Tlie vessel continued to go around witli the Hrst of the ebb which came from the southward off the shoals to tlie NW., win(!h latter point she reached at about 4 hours' ebb ; and slie con- tinued with her head in that direction, from which the tide came, until near tiie end of the tide. The vessel then began to tend again, with her head to the north and NB., as before, going completely around the compass in 12 hours. It was never entirely slack water, the stream continuing to run more or less during the whole time. The rate of the ebb was 3 knots, and that of the flood 2 knots. This occurred in quite a calm day. ki feet. At tlie aii- 0(1 was observed roiiud to tlie SB. imd witli tlie first oals to tlie NW., b ; and she con- tide came, until tend again,- with \etii\y around the ater, tlie stream The rate of the •ccurred in quite CHAPTER V. GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE, NORTH COAST, ORAND POINT TO CAPE WHITTLE. General Observations.— Greenly Island lies southward U miles from Grand Point, which is on the northern or Labrador side" of the entrance of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, throujjh the Strait of Belle Isle. The coast, which will form the subject of this chapter, lies between that island and South Makers Ledge, near Cape Whittle, a distance of 128 miles. The mariner is reminded that in shaping a course along the coast the variation of the compass alters half a point within the limits of this- chapter, for which alteration due allowance should be made; attention should also be given to the soundings. A vessel steering a direct course for the east point of Anticosti would carry soundings out to 60 fathoms, at the distance of 15 miles from Greenly Island. She would then find a greater depth, or no soundings, until she had increased her distance to 67 miles from the island, when she would again strike ground in from 30 to 50 fathoms, and continue to And soundings from time to time in various depths, and over mud, sand, and gravel bottom until she had passed South makers Ledge. These soundings are on detached banks lying parallel to the coast at the distance of se'-eral leagues. They are very irregular, and there is in general much deeper water between them and the shore and also to the southward for a great distance, or until we approach the opposite coast of Newfoundland. Currents and Icebergs — In navigating along this coast the current iu through the Strait of Belle Isle (page 8) must be taken into consid- eration, and it should also be remem bered that, in addition to the |»er- nianent dangers of the coast, drifting icebergs are frequently to be met with. There is a weak stream of flood from the eastward inshore and among the islands, and an equally weak ebb stream in the contrary di- rection; but both are much influenced by the winds. Aspect of Coast.— The coast between Greenly Island and Cape Whittle is exceedingly dangerous at night or iu togs; and even in day- time and flne weather it requires the intimate knowledge of the position of every ledge possessed by the fishermen, or a good chart on a large scale, to navigate along it with safety. The mainland and islands are of granitic rocks, bare of trees excepting iu the heads of bays, where small 8i)ruce and birch trees are met with occasionally. When not en- 123 -#s6sssissB«i*asssi*ti high islands, the the Bradore Hills, vessel her position i three contiguous lies northeastward the highest, being s coast. gers are increased b southerly winds, r does not exceed » the coast before tola and .sheltered ent at night. At ; plants in dower, baiued the brown d the ravines and ;her and the fogs at the distance of warm in summer birch, and poplar iidy clay, only the ist. w Indians of the Esquimaux occa- ire deer (caribou), adiaa porcupines ins by the few iu- the ptarmigan, or cattered families, blishments, which lebec. Seals and to are at Bradore, larbor, and Eta- inamu. These are the otdy places which could be relied on for much assistance by the crews of vessels which might be wrectked upon the coast. There is a family residing on the island between Bonne Ksper- iiuce and Salmon Bay in summer, and in Old Fort Bay in winter, wlii(;h might be added to the list. The remaining two or three fiunilies are very poor people, who seem just able to make out an inditl'erent livoli- hooil by hunting and fishing. Codflshery. — OodHsh are abundant on tli' coast, espeeiaily t«> the eastward of Mistanoqne. The flsheiy for tliem is not carried on only by resident inhabitants, but by schooners which visit the coast every summer. Bradore Bay, — In the NE. part of the bay is Ledges Island, of granite, surrounded by small islets, rocks, and ledges, as its name implies, and forming the harbor of Bradore. On the NW. side of the bay, just within Belles Amours Point, is Belles Amours Harbor. Between these harbors there are straggling rocks and no ai.(;horage, which, together with the heavy sea sent in by the southerly winds, makes this bay a very dangerous place. Grand I'oint, the SK. point of the bay, has a reef of rocks off it 700 yards to the south and west. The end of the point is low, but immediately in rear of it there lises a ]>recipice having a round knoll upon it, and behind that a still higher precipice, being the SVV. extremity of the extensive table lands of sandstone extending eastward along the northern side of the strait of Belle Isle, and northward to near the head of Bradore Bay. Peroquet Island, which is high, of sandstone, and the abode of myriads of pultins, is on the eastern side of Bradore Bay, 1 J miles to the northward of Grand Point. Bradore Bay. — There is no channel between the Pero(iuet and the mainland, the entrance of the channel lejiding to the harbor being be- tween the Peroquet and the rocks oft" the Island of Ledges. On the eastern side are Gull Rock and Ledge, which bear S. 21° W., andaredistantflOOand l,000yard8 respectively from Jones Pointon which the houses stand. The rock just covers at high water, and therefore can always be seen, but the ledge has 2 fathoms least, water on it, and is, therefore, extremely dangerous. On the western side of this ledge, the western extremes of Peroquet and Greenly Islands appear in one. The only other dangers on this side are several rocks above water, near the shore, just within the houses, and the shoal water, which extends 400 yards oft' shore, and continues to the head of the bay. The islets which lie in a straight line close along the eastern si»— ..i.-1 J GRAND POINT TO CAPK WHITTLE. on tli(^ MiiHt 8i of the IhIuikI of Ledt^eH, and which in At only for Hmull vhshoIh. Bradore Harbor.— lietweuii the islots {d and e) is the untranue to Bradoro Harbor, lUO yards wide, and carry in^; a depth of 7 fatlionis. Tli»i;-i> are two more islets close together (/') at \ of a mile N. U4° VV. of islet (e). The harbor, which is l)etween the north poiitt of Ledges Island and the islets (d) and (0), is qnite land-locked, and has a depth of from i to 17 futlioins water over muddy bottom; but it is capa- ble of holding only a small number of vessels, the space in which they can anchor being about | mile long by 3(M) yards wide. There is, however, plenty of room and good anchorage for large vessels farther up the bay to the northward of islets («) and (/), in from 10 to L'O fath- oms over muddy bottom ; some sea rolls in there with SW. winds, but not enough to endanger a vessel with good anchors. There is no channel for vessels into Bradore Harbor to the northward and westward of Ledges Island, on account of the innumerable rocks, although it is possible for small craft to pass through a narrow and very deep channel close along the NW. side of the island. The only navigable channel therefore is that which wo have described, and which is nearly r^ mile wide in the narrowest part, and 15 fathoms deep. Water may be obtained at a small stream near the houses, and also from small rivers in the head of the bay at high water. Directions. — In coming from the eastward give Grand Point a berth of ^ mile, or in hauling around it to the northward take care that the west extreme of the Peroquet does not bear to the westward of N. 35^ W., for the reef is very dangerous, and there is no warning by the lead. The west side of the Peroquet may be passed as near as ^ mile. Having passed it, haul to the eastward till the mark for clearing the Gull Hock and ledge, namely, the western point of Greenly Island, open half a point to the westward of Peroquet Island, bearing S. 2P B., comes ou. Then steer with that mark on, or N. 21° W. until Gull Rock is seen, or until Jones's house bears N. 32° E. and the islet (e), which will appear as the NE. extreme of Ledges Island, N. 2° W. Steer now for the latter, leaving Gull Rock to the eastward, and looking out for the other small rock on the opposite side, which has been mentioned as lying off islet (a). As soon as this rock is i>a8sed, the channel will be clear ahead by keeping nearer the islets than the mainland. When opposite Jones's house, a run of about 1,400 yards farther along islets (c) and (d), which are quite bold, will lead to the entrance ; and she must haul sharp round to the westward between (d) and (e), into the harbor, unless the more roomy and deep water anchorage is preferred farther up the bay, in which case there is nothing in tiie way, excepting the shoal ex- tending off the maiu shore already mentioned. In approaching Bradore from the westward, beware of the reefs which extend J mile to the SW. from Ledges Island. In order to give these a wide berth, do not bring the Peroquet to beai tc the southward of east HKADOKK AND liKLLES AMOURS irARROKB. 127 lit only for hiuuII the Hiitraiice ti) itli of 7 fatlioiiiH. I mile N. li4o VV. point of LedKe.H and liaH a depth but it is cai>a- Hpace in whiuli wide. There iH, e veHHels fartlier ^ni 10 to 20 fath- SW. windH, but o the northward iumerable rocks, ti a narrow and land. Tiie only 'ibed, aud which loms deep, louses, and also id Point a berth H Aiiioiii'm llurbor by tlio (MiHfi'^rti pii'i- Miin«', Mtt'or N.ACP W.,Ho »H to piiHH iJ iiiil(> to tim woMtwiii'd of tlio Kliit HoitkH. (Jontiniio tliiM coiii-Hii until tliu oiiMt hIiIo of llnrlior Point Ih )i|*|>roit(;li)Ml witliin liOO yiinls; tlitMi Ht«'«r X. .T*'' \V. till tli« niintly part of tUii point is opiMiiMl out, or tiid vt^ssi'l is alu'iMiit of liiu rork al)ovi^ water otr it, wIkmi hIio must haul a little to the westwaid, ho an to brin^ the oitNt Hiilf of Harbor Point and Pond Point in one. Keep tlieni in line, n order to nnirnl the north extrenu^ ol' the flat, until Mark Point (tlie extreme on the north side within the harlxtr) (tomes on with Peak Point (a riwMy point in .Middle itay), seen over the low land at the head of the harbor, and bearing H. (14^ VV. As soon as this nnirk ecnne.". on, haul sharp roiintl to tlit* w*>stward, keeping' at a less distance than 1200 yards from the hi^li north shore until the vessel is well within the sainly spit, when she may haul to the southward and ant^hor anywhere, the bottom bein;; of mud and thei de|itli from /> to 7 fathoms. To enter by the western passajje, whittli is preferable with a westerly wind, approaeh Belles Amours I'oint on a bearing; nothin;; to the east- ward of N. 32'^ IC, ami taktunire not to shut in Stony I'oint Ixdiind it, for tear of the middle ledges. Pass lielles Amours Point at a distance of too yards, and (^o no nearer the shore on that side until past Pond Point ; then proceed as before directed. As soon us the marks come on for hauling into the harbor to the westward, put the helm down and Hhoot the vessel in as far as she will go ; then let go the anchor, and warp in the remainder of the way. It is only with easterly and south- erly winds that a vessel can sail in. The bottom is good for anchoring outside Harbor Point, but not outside Stony Point. Middle Point, which has several rocjks oft' it 200 yards to the west and south, lies rather more than 1^ miles from Belles Amours Point. Middle Ledges lie to the southward of Middle Point. Several of these ledges dry at low water, but the outermost, which is 1,200 yards ot!" shore, has l.'i feet least water. There is no safe passage between these and the shore. Five Leagues Point is the SW. extreme of another low but smaller peninsula, separating Five Leagues Harbor from Middle Bay. On this peninsula, fj mile to the northward of the extremity of the point, there is a precipitous hill nearly 200 feet high, which marks the position of Five Leagues Harbor from the westward. Leagues and Barrier Reefs. — Leagues Reef, ott' Five Leagues Point, is partly above water, and extends ^ mile to the southward, and the two Barrier Reets extend to the distance of 1'^ miles to the south westward of the same point, but are not Joined to it. The south extremes of Middle and Belles Amours Points in line, lead ff mile to the southward of the Barrier Reefs. Middle Bay is a tine open roadstead, free from all danger, more than a mile wide, and extending inland 2 miles to the northward. lu the I 11 ■ a: :< MIDDLK HAY — KHCJjITIMArX IHLANDH. 121) ii-il of Mii^ Flat arhiM' I'oiiit iit liK Miiiiily part liu nxtk ahovo , HO an to briii^ >|) tlllMII ill lilH>, ink I'oiiit (tlio itii IVak Point lit tllM luMul of lark (tonic.", on, r.aii<'(> tlian L*(M) n\\\ wiMiiii Mio lior aii,vwlntr«, IMlH. ntli a westi'i'Iy n^ to tlie cuMt- 'oiiit boliiiul it, t at a (liHtancu ilil past Pond [i«^ niai'kH come lelni down and HI anchor, and rly and south- for anchoring ds to the west lourH Point, t. Several of in 1,200 yards 4sage between ■w but smaller Bay. On this point, there he position of leagues Point, 1, and the two )uth westward extremes of le southward er, more tlian irard. In the outer pari of the bay, for the llrst mile in, the shore, on either side, should not be appi'oa Hay. Its tiead is separated by a low and swampy isthnnis trotn Kive Leagues Harbor. In tin; month of this «;ov(t, in 4 fathoms, in the an- clioragt^ with westerly winds. Shallop Cove, on the east siirit; and there are If shore, on the east ! form the harbor of the largest of them Inch is also owing to ard of them. There I, and there are bea- woen (xoddiird and St of two low islets and. Is off the south point 1 quite bold. God- low water, bears 8. »iut. These are the )n the western side with a pile of stones \y a mile from God- d Lark and another are out of the way. ^ mile, is Red Head nd is distant nearly the two last-named the northward, are ing two peninsulas, latter being 150 feet le to the eastward islet and a narrow >tt" the east side of t^help Rock, always Goddard and Carl- entrance from the 1 10 to 13 fathoms s-ays shows, lies ^ the same distance BONNE ESPERAXCE HARBOR. -- 131 to he northward of ,t, and to the eastward of Link Islet lies Breakin^r Ledge, Which .,ast covers at high water. The only other da .gerT '"d they are only dangerous to a vessel of largo draft .ir." t vn i f^'n patches, the easternmost of which (Middle' Pat'^l'' he rs S ^Tl mile from Beacon Island; and the other (Whale Patch), N to " l m, e from the beacon on Whale Island. Thie is foul and rooky Juua with from 5 to 10 fi.thoms between these patches, which ma^ b avoi d by a vessel approaching the harbor from the westward, by not c^n in o a less depth than 10 fathoms until the leading maks l a X.: into the harbor come on. ^-^^ uu naiiiiug at ojf ?r~^^ ^' *"^'' ''.^*"'' ^"" ^"^^ ''l'''^"^'^. at Bonne Esperance Harbor at Oh. ir^ra. ; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 2^ feet Directions through Main ChanneL-Being off the coast to th'^ east- ward, and with an easterly wind, stand in towards Caribou Island the position ot- which with respect to Whale Island has bee, p " '^^^ When a the .listance of J nnle from the south side of Caribou he ves .e will be in 10 fothoms water, and the south sides of Beacon and Red ^:i^^:fmo7V''' ^' ^'^" ''''''^ '''' '^ --' to come iu line bearing S 00° W. Bear up upon this leading mark, or if not sure of the island, steer S. 55o w. with the lead going and a good ookout for Goddard Rock Island. The depth will bt about 9 fathoms at low water until the vessel is past that rock, when it will deepen suck enl^ into 15 or 19 fathoms, and she will then be in the channel '"'^"'^ The vessel must now haul in immediately N. 20° W., and Whelp Rock wil be seen right ahead, and iu line with the west s de of Hou e Island, which IS low, has a house upon it, difficult to be seen and lies nf .H «,w '" "^'/ '^'' '""^'^ ""' ^'''^"""' ^»*' ^I'^" past Bold Rock off the SW pom of Goddard Island, haul a little f.> the eastward so 1 1 n-,T " r?"^^ ' '^^^' "' ''' >'^'-^«- ^« -«" as the vessel s wi^hm Uns rock, bear up S. 77° W., and run along the inner sides of Lion and Bonne Esperance Islands, passing between the latterand An chor Islana into the harbor, between Bonne Esperance amf Grfni Islands, and where the depth is from 12 to 16 fathoms over muddy bot Whnt'fi'' ^^T rffT** ""''^ ^ ''^'^''^^ ^^•"^»' l^ass the south point of oT N I^o'f t *^^,t*^r; «*• ^ ""•«' steering none to the northward IT' f ;■ r^ ^''^''' "'^ ^■^'^''^'^'^ P'^t^'^^^' ""til Whelp Rock and the wes side of House Island is brought in line bearing N. 20o W • then haul in upon that bearing, and proceed as before, excepting in'dise of the wind not being free enough to allow of passing between Bonne Es Perance and Anchor Islands. In this case a vessel must go Znd to the nortbward.of Anchor Island, and must not haul up higher than K Oio W., nor close in the Whelp Rock with theSW. extreme of Goddard ■.-i:'->;*sfi^"\"-ViJ>4»?i*=T-. " loJ GRAND POINT TO CAPE WHITTLE. Island, iiutil she is past Anchor Reef, which covers at high water, ami lies 400 yards to the northeastward of Anchor Island, and is the only detached danger within the bay. Esquimaux Channel leads direct to the eastern entrance of Esqui- maux Bay ; ic should be approached through Whale Channel, between Whale and Tent Islands, the latter island being the next westward of the former. Whale Channel is J mile wide, and has a depth of from 10 to 18 fathoms water. The course through the center of Whale Channel to the entrance of Esquimaux Channel is N.4o E. Esquimaux Channel is between Grand and Fair Islands on the east, and Spit and Stone Islands on the west ; between the inner islands (Pair and Stone) is the narrowest part, only 150 yards wide, and with 5 fathoms water. In passing through this, the equally narrow entrance to Esquimaux Bay will be seen and the vessel must stand close over to it, before she hauls to the eastward through the NW. channel into Bonne Esperance Bay. Then keeping within 200 yards of the main shore, to avoid the shoal which extends from Fair Island fully half way across the channel, she should '^teer for the south side of the small and high Star Island, and passing close to it continue her course towards Anchor Island till past the shoal, which extends 400 yards off Grand Island, when she may haul to the southward into the harbor. Esquimaux Channel is the only other be- sides Main Channel which has water enough for large ships, but it is too narrow for vessels of ordinary size excepting incases of emergency. West Channel, lying between Spit and Stone Island on the east, and Esquimaux Island proper on the west, has a bar with only 2 fathoms water across from Stone Island to a point on the western side of the east entrance to Esquimaux Bay. Esquimaux Bay.— The eastern entrance to Esquimaux Bay is by a very narrow channel between the island and mainland to the eastward, which opens into a wide space with two islets in it. But if the mainland to the eastward be followed, it will lead to the entrance of the Esquimaux Eiver, where Mr. Chevalier's house and trading post will be seen ou a sandy point, backed with spruce trees. The river is navigated by canoes for many miles inland, and abounds with salmon. Only small schooners can pass through the narrow channel between Esquimaux Island and the main to the eastward, but there is water enough for larger vessels to the westward of the island. We must, however, refer to the chart for this route, for it would be quite impos- sible to convey any intelligible idea of such an intricate navigation through such a multitude of islands. Old Fort Bay.— Fort Rocks are a number of low rocks extending § mile to the SW. from the SW. point of Old Fort Island, which is of a very moderate height, and about 1^ miles in diameter. From this island a number of smaller islands extend northward into the mouth of Esqui- maux Bay. There are also a number of steep and high islands ex- '^•*^ OLD FORT BAY — PERIL ROCK. 133 igh water, atul iiid is the only ance of Esqui- auuel, between xt westward of epth of from 10 he entrance of between Grand Is on tlie west ; west part, only through this, ) seen and the ) the eastward Then keeping [ which extends he should steer id passing close past the shoal, lay haul to the J only other be- ships, but it is s of emergency, ^nd on the east, 1 only 2 fathoms itern side of the aux Bay is by a to the eastward, if the mainland the Esquimaux ill be seen on a jated by canoes lannel between there is water ,nd. We must, be quite impos- ate navigation eks extending % d, which is of a rom this island nouth of Esqui- ligh islands ex- tending northwestward from Old Fort Island across the bay of tlie same name. There are deep-water channels leading to Old Fort Hay between the islands last mentioned, but too intricate for a written de- scription to be useful. Old Fort Channel leads in from sea between the Fort Rocks and Mermot Islet, and fartiier in between Old Fort Island and Channel Island; which last, together with Crumb Island to the northward, must be kept close aboard until a vessel is in the wide and open space within the islands and oti" the mouth of Old Fort Bay. This wide opening through the outer islands is the only navigable one besides Whale Channel. Through it vessels may run in between the islands in the way just mentioned, or westward between the Dog Islands and the main ; but this we must leave the chart to explain. In some places between the islands there 's more than 50 fathoms water, and the nearer the main the fewer the ledges. Dog Islands. — To the northward of Mermot Islet is the Eider (rroup, and westward of them the Dog Islands, surrounded by rocks and in- numerable ledges. The outermost of these rocks lies 4 miles S. 73o W. from the outermost Fort Rock. The southwesternmost of the Dog Islands are very low, but tlie highest islands next the main, although small, are of considerable elevation. There is good anchorage between them and the main, but it can only be got at easily by running down with a westerly wind from Shecatica, close along the mainland, and in the channel between the latter and the scattered rocks and ledges which lie off it, where there is very deep water the whole way. Porpoise Rocks are two or three small black rocks above water, lying S. 77° W., 3^ miles from the outer Dog Rocks. Tlie Boulet, ah. 't, 259 yards in diameter, is a smooth, round-backed islet, green at th ;'t<> •' •' "''"iit 70 feet in height. Together with the opening to Lobster , , 'hich bears from it N. 32° E. IJ miles, it serves to point out the p ,o..;»on of a vessel off the coast. Ciab Islai.ul is J mile NW. from it, and the Four Rocks (within which is Inner IsU>t) 3 miles to the westward. These are the only islets between it and She- catica ; but there are many rocks and ledges between them, and also off the Bonlet, to seaward. Peril Rock, which is very small, dries at half tide, and lies J^ miles S. 13° E. from the Bonlet, is the outermost and greatest danger off" this part of the coast; the sea, however, almost always breaks upon it, and also upon the others which lie between it and the Four '.locks. There is no warning by the hand lead in approaching any of these rocks. Lobster and Rocky Bays are two narrow inlets extending to the northward between steep, rocky shores. There is deep water at the entrance to both of them, diminishing gradually towards the head. One mile within the entrance of Rocky Bay, on the east side, there is a house and a tish stage, off which there is anchorage in 5 fathoms, muddy bot- tom, well sheltered from all winds. 1, I 184 GRAND POINT TO CAPE WHITTIE. Napetepee Bay ia a straight aud uarrow iulet, very similar to Lob- ster Bav. Its entrance is about li miles uortliwartl of tlie Four Rocks, wiiicli, togetlier with the Inner Islet just within tiiem, must be left to the eastward in approaching this bay. In ,3ntering Napetepee Bay a vessel must ])ass 200 yards to the westward of some rocks above water, b'iiiR jii^^ within the mouth of the bay. At the distance of 1^ miles* within the entrance, ti'ere is a small islet ; pass to the westward of it, when the east shore must be kept close aboard until through the Nar- rows. Several small streams run into this bay ; but the principal stream is on the east side, | mile from its head, and is the outlet of a considerable lake, which can not easily be entered by boat excepting at high water. A river abounding with salmon enters this lake. Directions. — The three bays just described have no dangers in them, but they are, nevertheless, by no means desirable places for vessels to go into, being so narrow, and having such deep water. Besides, a sail- ing vessel can not get out of them without a northerly wind, which in the summer months seldom occurs. Lobster and Rocky Bays are pref- erable to Napetepee; and the safe and proper way of approaching them is from the westward, with a westerly wind, passing inshore between Shecatica and the Four Rocks, aud then eastward close along the main- land. The Inner Channel, between the islets and the mainland, is not less than 600 ya^ds wide, and the depth of water is from 33 to 4S fathoms, over muddy bottom. This deep-water channel, close along the main- land, free from all dangers, continues eastward all the way to the Dog Islands. Vessels might pass between the latter and the Porpoise Rocks in clear weather, when shoal water could be readily seen, and when there is a sea running heavy enough to break upon the ledges, but the other is the safer plan of proceeding. Shecatica and Mistanoque He close to the mainland, and would be difficult to distinguish from it if it were not for the Boulet and the opening of Na|)etepee to the eastward aud the Shag Islet to the west- ward. Shecatica is the eastern, the smaller, and the higher island of the two, being ^ mile long and 150 feet high. Mistanoque Island, separated from Shecatica by an unnavigable channel 300 yards wide, is nearly 1^ miles long, parallel to the coast ; broken into coves on the outside, and in the highest part 120 feet above the sea. Mistanoque Bay, the mouth of which is about 300 yards wide with a depth of 23 faihoms in the entrance, expands to the breadth of 550 yards within and runs inland rather more than 3 miles nortliward. It is not until a vessel arrives within less than ^ mile of its head that the depth decreases so as to be convenient for anchoring. The bottom is everywhere of mud ; there are no dangers, and wood and water are plentiful. Mistanoque Harbor, though small aud with inconveniently deep water, is a valuable harbor. It is situated directly opposite the mouth MISTANOQUE AND CUMBERLAND HARBORS. 135 similar to Lob- tlie Four Uocks, must be left to apetepee Bay a ks above water, ,nce of 1^ miles ) westward of it, lirougb tlie Nar- it the principal s the outlet of a >at excepting at s lake. [angers in tbem, es for vessels to Besides, a sail- ' wind, which in y Bays are pref- tproaching them inshore between along the main- iland, is not less 3 to 48 fathoms, ilong the main- way to the Dog Porpoise Rocks seen, and when ledges, but the d, and would be Boulet and the ilet to the west- igher island of iu unnavigable to the coast ; 120 feet above 300 yards wide the breadth of les nortijward. )f its bead that . The bottom and water are veniently deep osite the mouth of the bay, and has a depth of from 15 to 20 fathoms ; farther to the eastward the depth is 12 fathoms, but the channel is narrow ; vessels must moor in any case. Enter and Diver Islets are both low. To the west of them, at the distance of 800 yards, lies a group of small islands. Directions. — No other directions seem necessary than to run through the center of either passage which may be preferred. The south pas- sage between Enter Island and the west shore of Mistanoque is, how- ever, the best channel, being 800 yards wide and bold to the rocks on either side. On arriving at the west passage of Mistanoque Harbor, ■give the NVV. point of Mistanoque a berth of about 100 yards, or keep well over to the mainland side of the entrance ; but as soon as the ves- sel has entered this narrow channel, keep Mistanoque aboaru, because there is shoal water off the west side of the entrance of the bay to the distance of 60 yards. The East Passage, off the northwest point of Shecatica, is only CO yards wiile and has only 3 fatliomi) water in it. Shag Islet, bearing S. 44° W. 7^ miles from Mistanoque, is the best guide for making the latter from tije westward, as the Boulet is from the eastward. Shag Islet is small and high, with a round peaked hill looking green in the middle. There are many rocks off to the eastward of this islet, the outermost of which, distant from the islet 2 miles, is Shag Rock. Aspect of Coast. — The coast between Mistanoque and Cape Mecat- tina is broken into large bays and inlets, between large islands of mod- erate height above the sea, and partially covered with moss. Many smaller islands, islets, and rocks are interspersed, and outside all the coast is lined with small islets, rocks, or ledges, in grou|.:\ or scattered here and there. The greatest diflQculty is to pass safely throuj, i between the last ; for within the islands, in most of the channels and wide spaces between them, as well as in the bays of the utainland, there is a great depth of water, amounting in one or two places to 50 or 60, and often exceeding 30 fathoms. In these deep-water channels and bays, which are so intricate as to defy any attempt at a written description, small rocks are not nearly so numerous as they are outside, and are for the most part above water. From Shecatica Bay to Ba-Ha Bay the mainland does not appear, as the i»»land8, great and small, and of different heights above the sea, are so numerous and so near together, that the coast can not be distinguished till a vessel is among them. Cumberland Harbor, the entrance to which is between Dukes Island on the west and the Cumberland Island on the east, is known by a high hill on the mainland about lOJ es north from the entrance- That hill is the highest in the neighborho^v., and resembles a castle at the top, having steep cliff's like walls. The islands forming the harbor are of moderate height, the easternmost making in two round hills. -rii(U^i*»J^6l(W?i> ^*^'■ . rt^rt-nE«£4^S^M>ud?<^£^?^Z^^3^^!^WlA« 186 OKANU POINT TO CAPE WHITTLE. rf'u »■ r! • m This iH an exoellenf liarbor, tlio best and eaHiest otacuess on the coast. Good water can be ha channel between more than ij mile wide. The course through the (senter of this channel, direct for the west ex- treme of Duke Island, is N. 40° W. To enter this harbor pass to the eastward of Egg Rocks, and keep the west extreme of Duke Island, which bears N. 10° E. more than J mile from Egg Rocks, aboard ou going in. A small rock will then be seen above water to the northwestward, lying over towards the east side of the entrance of the harbor. Pass ou either side of that rock aud then steer in for the harbor, there being nothing in the way but ■what appears. Port Augustine has a very narrow and intricate entrance, aud is fit for small craft only. The Augustine Chain, the outermost of which is a round smooth rock, has a high black rock ^ mile to the westward of it. Between these last-named rocks there is a ledge, which shows at one-third ebb. The passage is on either side of this ledge, and then northward along the west side of Augustine Chain. Square Channel, the largest in between the islands, towards the mainland, is too intricate for description ; but 14 or 15 miles up it ui a •westerly direction is the entrance of St. Augustine River. St. Augustine River is a stream of considerable length and empties into a bay full of rocky islands. Its mouth is full of shifting sand banks. Schooners anchor in St. Augustine Harbor outside the river 3 if PORT AUGUSTINE — HA-HA BAY. 137 188 on the coast. ) harbor, but for 4 miles to the ortliward many liuihed from be- ifjer in the way lyinjj; S. '23° E., , whicli is about Iter points, haul nt on that side, int of entrance, ard and anchor round, id, is a safe har- )r, but plouty of are two ledger S. nryc^ VV. from [lut from the lat- te from the east Ihag Island. A Island towards in ^ mile wide, or the west ex- ocks, and keep E. more than ^ jk will then be wards the east e of that rock n the way but ance, and is fit lost of which is le westward of hich shows at dge, and then 8, towards the liles up it ui a th and empties shifting sand ide the river 3 miles below the Hudson Bay Company's post. The river is formed of two branches, the NVV. branch and the NB,, or main river, which receives the tributary river, Aus Mouches. At the latter end of .June salmon ascend the main river to a distance of 80 miles above the first rapids. The Aus Mouches is also visited every fall by a large number of fish resorting thereto for the i)urpose of spawning. IJoth branches are easily ascended in flats or canoes, but the river sonietiMies falls very low in summer. There is i)len(y of wood at this river. Eagle Harbor, in Long Island, has room and depth enough for the largest ships within, but the entrances are too narrow for auytiiing but •small vessels. The east i)as8age, between the islets which form the harbor and Long Island, bears about N. llio W. 2^ miles from the Fox Islands, and is the best and deepest, but has only li fathoms water. This part of the coast is dangerous, being lined with small low islets and rocks, both above and under water, nnd nothing but a chart upon a large scale would enable any one • fl igle Harbor. The ap"* '""h to it, however, is on either side L. '""ox '■ ids, which bear N. b '^. i) miles from Treble Hill Islet, and S. 05° W. about 14 miles from Augus- tine Chain. rieh Harbor, bearing X. 39° W. 4^ miles from Boule Islet, at the north extreme of Great Mecattina Island, is a small cove of the main- land running in to the westward, with an islet covered with wood* and hence called Wood Island, lying olf its entrance. There is a pas- sage on either side of Wood Island, but that to the northward is the best, there being a ledge in the bay to the southward of the island, part of which, however, always shows, and a rock with 2 feet least win- ter, S. (W° E. nearly )f mile from the east point of Wood Island. In the cove there are 7 or 8 fathoms, with good ground and room to moor. It is, however, only fit for small vessels. Both wood and water may be obtained. There Js no danger but what appears in approaching this harbor from either side of Great Mecattina Island excei)ting the ledges which have been mentioned. Ha-Ha Bay. — Seal Point, about a mile to the northward of Wood Island, is the west point of entrance into Ila-lIaBay. The islands 'o the eastward contract the channel into this bay to the breadth of about ^ mile, but there is plenty of water, and no danger but what appears above water. The best channel is close along the mainland, between Seal Point aud Itound Islet, leaving all the islets and rocks to tlie eastward. The bay runs in about 8 miles, and has many good anchoring i)laces. Qreat Mecattina Island is distant rather more than 2 miles from Red Point, the nearest part of the mainland to the westward. The central part of the island is the highest, and rises about oOO feet above the sea. The granitic hills of this island are fissured in a remarkable manner, by empty basaltic dikes traversing the island, in a north and south direction, from one side tt) the other. These features, together with the position of the island, in relation to the high land inside of -•«Bir3K-vS3*!»»?«!se^ ' -'■ .. k f w^ ili 188 GRAND POINT TO CAPE WHITTLE. Cape Mecattina, 4 or 5 mil»8 from it to the wustward, distiiiguiHb tluH iHlaiid from any other land in tlie Gulf. The Boule Ih a \\'\n\i and round islet, nearly joined to the north point of Great iMecattina Inland. There is a small rock above water close oft' it to the westward, and at the distance of about ^ mile in the same di- rection, a |)atch of rocks with about 4 fathoms least water. Round Head, on the 8\V. side, is a high peninsula, connected to the island by a low isthmus. An islet and small rock, at a distance of ^ and one mile respectively, lie oft' the south point of the island. About 3 miles N. 07° E. from the center of the island, lies Treble Dill Island. S. 02° E. 3 miles from the south point lies Flat Island, and S. 11° W. about 4 miles from the same point of the islaiui, lie the two I^Iiirr Islets, about 4 "die apart, of considerable heigiit, Hat at the top, (.Jid pre- cipitous all round. Treble Ilill and Flat Islands are quite bold all round, and so also are the Murr Islets, which swarm with sea fowl. A beacon, constructed of wood, pyramidal in shape, surmounted by a cone, with a vane, the whole 34 feet high, and painted white, bu« been erected on Flat Island, southeastward of the south point of Great Mecattina Island. Murr Kocks are two small and low rocks above water, lying about ^ mile to the SB. of the southernmost Murr Islet. To the north- ward of, and more than ^ mile from the easternmost Murr Kock, there lies a ledge on which the sea generally breaks. Island Harbor is a cove one mile deep, and about 400 yards wide between Blutt' Head, the high NE. point of Great Mecattina Island, and the Boule. This harbor is sheltered from easterly winds by a cluster qf small islets and rocks, lying oft' its mouth, and leaving a safe passage on either side of them. If the south passage is used, keep Bluft' Head aboard, and if the north passage, pass between the cluster just men- tioned, and a small rock by itself, lying ^ mile to the west of it, and 200 yards from the shore of the Great Mecattina. The anchorage is near the Lead of the cove in from 14 to 20 fathoms water over good ground, and both wood and water may be had. Mecattina Harbor is a small but safe harbor between Mecattina Island and the mainland, being only about 56 yards wide in the western entrance, and about 130 yards wide within. In a vessel of any size it is therefore necessary to moor head and stern and with hawsers to the shore. The depth within is 6 and 7 fathoms over good ground, but only 3 fathoms at low water can be carried in through either entrance. Western Entrance. — In the small bay between Mutton and Mecat- tina Islands, wherein is the western entrance, there is no anchorage in consequence of the great depth of water; but there is no danger in the way, and it is only necessary to keep in the middle to pass safely through the narrow western entrance. The eastern entrance is rendered difficult by a reef of rocks under water running across it to the northward from the north part of the island, and should only be attempted in fine weather, unless by those who are well acquainted with the place. MECATTINA AND I'OKTAOE HAKHORS. 139 4li8tiiif;uiHh tliJH tlie nortii point ) water close oft" in the Hame a! tlsliery. Directions. — Wlien sailing Into Mecattiiui Ihubor from the east point of the island, steer N. t.j'^ W. over to the mainland, and keep it close aboard until the NW. point of the island, at the western entrance, is brought in one with the point of the nuiinland at the eastern en- trance; the latter point l)eing the south point of Dead Cove, which is small, open to the eastward, and immediately to the northward of the •eastern entrance of the harbor. Sail in with this mark on till the luuth extreme of the island and the north extreme of (Jull Islet come in one. The vessel will then be within the reef, and must haul to the southward, towards the island, to avoid a ledge which stretches oft' thu south point of Dead Cove. Being close over to the island, she must haul to the westward into the harbor. O-ull Islet lies N. 67° K. nearly a mile from the east end of Mecat- tina Island, and there is no danger between them; but if a vessel ap- proaching Mecattina Harbor from the eastward wishes to pass between Gull Islet and the main, she must keep either the one or the other aboanl, in order to avoid the ledge, with 3 feet least water, which lies nearly halfway between them. Portage Bay, on the east side of Cape Mecattina, runs in about l\ miles to the northward, between steej) and high hills, fissured like Great Mecattina Islatid, and there is a rapid river at its head. The deep water, with space for a vessel to ancljor, extends only about 400 yards within the entrance, and there is a snug cove on the east side for small ves- sels. Portage Harbor is formed by a small and moderately high islet in the mouth of Portage Bay, lying over towards the east side. In this harbor vessels of considerable size might find shelter in time of need, although it is inconveniently small for general use, like most of the har- bors on this coast. Directions.— The passage into Portage Harbor, to the eastward of the islet, is flt only for very small vessels. The western entrance is about 200 yards wide, and has from 6 to 8 fathoms in it. There is still more water within, over muddy bottom. But approaching this harbor in a vessel of large draft, there are two ledges with 15 feet least water to be avoided. They lie in the line from the south extreme of Cape Me- cattina to the western entrance of Mecattina Harbor. The northeast- ernmost of these ledges bears S. 28° E. about 800 yards from the west end of Mutton Island, and the other N. 22° E. ^ mile from the south- ernmost Seal Rock, which lies near the shore on the east side of Cai)e Mecattina, and about f mile north from its south extremity. Shoal water extends .about 200 yards oft" the Seal Rocks to the eastward, but Mutton Island is quite bold. '^ MSiHtifsiii'aai.viii 1; 1^. 140 OKANl) POINT TO CAPK WHlTTLK. Cape Mecattina irt of inoiIiM-ato lici^Mit for Horiiu (ILstanou to Mio iiortli- wanl of ilH oxtr«iiiit.v; but about 3 miles to tlio nortliwaril it riscH to tiio lu'ijflit of «t85 fti't iil)ove tlic stuv. Tim lii^^lieMt purt of whiit in callcU tlHt IliKli Lund of Mt'cattiiia, wiiicii Hhon direutly iu ruar of Mt'cuttiim ilai-l>or, (;aii not l)o leH.s tliaii 7IH) feet above tlie him^ anil in tlie liiulx^^st land upon tills coaKt tioin Itrailoro westward to tin; vicinity of Miiifran. Tilt' i^ranilc of tliis promontory is travfised fr<»ni 8W. to NK. l»y tliose enormous itasaiiii; dil\es wliicli liave lu'en nuMitionod as o(HMirrin|{ in Great .Meenttina Island. In Dike Island several of tlieni are empty as low down as tlie surface of the sea, dividing the island by ininiensu open fissures in sueli a way as to distinguish it from all others in the nei^'lihorhood. Then' is a small islet less than 200 yards from the end of the point with no channel between. At the distanite of nearly 400 yards farther out is Kntrance Island, about 400 yards in diameter. Dike Island is composed of two islands at high water, but there is no piissafje even for a boat between. It is abttut 150 feet hijj''. At the distance of a mile from the south point of Dike Island lie the two Outer liocks. They are above water, and there are several rocks and ledges, and no safe passages betweeu them and the island. The Northern Murr Islet, which is the nearest of the two, is 'J<^ uiiles from the Outer Rocks, and there is a clear and exceedingly deep chan- nel between. For vessels bound to Mecattina Harbor the channel between Entrance and Dike Islands is the best, and has 13 fathoms of water in it. The shoal water extends about 100 yards off the east side of the former of those islands, but the latter is quite bold. The Coast from Cape Mecattina to Capo Whittle is as dangerous as can well be imaginoHt< iiiity ot Miiigaii. to NK. I»,v tliose iiH ociMirriiti; in 'in lire t'inpty »a 111(1 by iinnienHu all othci'N in the '(1h Ironi tliu end vx' of nearly 400 (Im in (lianu'ter, , but tliuro is no t hig>>. At the ie the two Outer >ckH ami ledges, two, is LM uiiles ngl.\ deep chan- lor the channel 18 13 fathoms of ait' the east side )ld. us (hiDgeroHs as ight or in thick ith it the uavi- lot often visited lehooners. The Iter islands and athoins, so that rt diatance of 4 ivel with from bare of wood, farther to NE., ;eed totlieSVV. 1 about 3 miles two parts. All en from a great ppeared below feet above the o\v and mossy inds of granite the north and 1(1 small rocky Little Meuattina River diHchargeM its waters through these tiats by several shallow channels, the largtvst of whicli Hows into Avlincr Hound to the west ward, and the shallowest into the May of Uocks to the eastward of the island. The latter chaniKU has only .'< feet in it at low water, so that it is possible to wade across it and from the island to the main when the tide is out. Little Mecu-attiiia Island, having thus no chaiin(«l between it and the main for vessels, and scarcely even for boats at low water, may be considered as forming the west side of a large bay. The promontor.v of Mecattina forms the east side of this bay, which is tilled with islands and rocks innumerable, among which no vessel coul'l find her way and where it is possible to lose oncfielf for a time ill a boat. Fin Rocks lie mnirly 250 yards off Whale Head, the south extreme of (lore Islands, and bearing N. o4° M, 0.3 miles froiuAiitrobus Point, a Rmall peninsula at the HE. extreme of Little Mecattina Island. To the westward of Fin Uocks, at thedistauc(^of2and 3 miles respectively, lie Herriot Isles and Single Rock, with two or three sunken rocks close to it. Hetween these and Little Me(;attlna Island there is a large open bay, the head of which is called the Bay of Hocks. Antrobus I'oint is the 8W. point of this bay, and has a ledge oif it, 200 yards to the south- ward, which is the only danger otf the south side of Little Mecattina Island. Little Mecattina Cove, on the east side of Little Mecattin-i Island, about '^ mile to the northward of Antrobus I'oint, is 1} mile long, and from l-iO to 280 yards wide, between high, bold, and precipitous rocks. It has iU fathoms water in the entrance, and there are 17 fathoms over mud bottom within. It is open to the NE., but as the islands are only distant 3 miles in that direction, there is uo doubt but that a vessel well moored wouhl be quite safe in it. The SE. point of entrance is called Cove Point, and is quite bold. Water may be obtained at the head of the cove. Hare Harbor, also on the east side of Little Mecattina Island, has depth and room enough for the largest vessels, but has several rocks and ledges ill it, which render it ditlicult for strangers. As it opens to the southward, the prevailing westerly or easterly winds are favorable for sailing in, and are generally accompanied with a smooth sea in the entrance. It is only when the wind is well to the southward that there is any swell, and even then it never rolls into the harbor so as to att'ect a vessel. Directions. — To enter Hare Harbor steer N. 3° E. so as to pass Antrobus Point and Cove Point at the distance of ^ mile. When the vessel has run '^ mile past Cove Point, she will be close to the eastern- most of the two Cat Rocks, which are above water, about 400 yards apart. At the distance of 300 yards to the northward of the eastern- most rock lies Staff Islet, about 150 yards in diameter, off which there is a rocky patch dry at low water, about 200 yards to the eastward ; ■ ^^it^iaiiiitisix >fii.aiaaa!3SSS*SES.": :~^\^:^.'Z^::^rjrtssr^TyR^x^cr;^ J :s ii Ji 11 '-^ 142 OKANl) POINT TO CAI'K WIIITTLK tliiH(!>iii ithviiyM Ik) .stn'ii t'roiii t\w r'xnniwa, hut tliuro M iiIho ti lod^t^ witli 2 fiithoins |»>iiHt wiit,«'r, .{'JO yivrds X. .'JP 10. from tho NIO. oxtrt'iiiHof tli« JNlcf. On tliJM Ictlfjo tli(>SiO. (>.\rn>iiHMir I'Mt'ii IhIuihIm uimI the hiiiiiII tiiid lii^li Nob Islet art' in liiu*; tlit' liiltt>i' liciirint; tioiii lln^ t'onniT N.lili' H., li^ iiiilfs, Tlicso artf tlii> nnl.v port hand, or on tht> sido ot Little Mccattiini Ishinil ; anil to th(M'aHt\var*l, tliiMican'Mt (hint;crH will hi> more than a niih^ from th** cMtiirso. NVIuMi on«< iniln past ('ovo Toint, StalV Isit^t will h« aboani on tlu* port- hand, and ou^rht not to bit ncartM- than \ mile. From this position Ihu jMitrant'c "if the harbor will bcsi'cn biMirin^ N. .'{l»o VV., on«' ndio. It can not bi^ niisttiktMi, IxHtanst^ tluM'tns no oIIhm' (thannt'l tliroii^rh which a pcr- Hon can stn^ clear into the harbor from that position. The entrance, abont .'UO yards wide, and 20 tat bonis water in it, is between Daly and Pri(re Islands, ami the only other (;hannel is between the latter and the lOdcn Islands, which have been already mentioned. When tlu! entrance bears N. otJ'^ W.. Iiani directly in Cor the entrancie, leaving; the Kden Islands, and also l'ri(!e Island, to the eastward, and yivinjj the SW. extreme of the latter a berth of not less than atches of rock with from 4 to (5 fathoms, althouuh the bottom is iu general of mud, with from i) to 14 fathoms water. Foul Rock, a 2-fathom patch, bears N. .'{3° W., 1,200 yards from the SVV. point of Price Isl- and ; and N. 40° F,, nearly 800 yards from the south side of the water- iufl cove, which will be seen on the west side of the harbor. Until within this rock, therefore, a vessel should keep more than halfway over from the islands forming the east side of the uarbor, towards its western shore. She may if requisite run in nearly ^ mile farther thau this patch, and anchor to eastward of (Jlust'u- Point, which cousists of some low small islets and rocks extending off the Little Mecattiua shore; this position being the most secure in the harbor. Rocks. — All the bay within or northeastward of Eden Islands, as well as to the eastward of the line from them to Single Rock, is danger- ous, being full of sunken rocks, and shoal rocky jiatches, springing up through great depths of water. Supplies. — There is a good watering place iu the small cove on the west side of Hare Harbor, and wood may also be obtained iu various places. There is usually a couple of men either in the entrance ot Lit- tle Mecattiua River or near Little Mcoattina Cove, but they do not remain during the winter. There are plenty of blue and cloud berries, etc., on the hills of Little Mecattiua Island. ^^i. HAHR AND I.OUI8A HAKHOR8. 148 1 )4o u I(><1k<« witii oxtrcinnof tlio I Mh> Hiiiiill and niuT N.'JL'T K., rH luii (Ml the port- JH position Miu I- iiiih>. It (Mill fli which apcr- Till' eiitruiiiHt, ivtHMi Daly and i iattor aud tho r tim (Mitraiiue, eastward, and than GO yards, ite bold. oil either side e center of tlio iock, is N. 3(P re are several ) Imttoin IS ill k, a li-fathom of Price Isl- of the water- arbor. Until than halfway towards its farther tliau ch consists of e Mecattiua Islands, as ik, is danger- iprinjjing up cove on the d in %-ariou8 ranee of Lit- they do not ond berries, Aylmer Sound. — The south shore of Little Me(uittiiia Island is high and liold, with remarkable beaches of white bowlder stones (xutasioii* ally. There is a long cove (tlose to the eastwaiil of (Jape Mackinnon, but it is of no use to vessels. Aylmer Hound is formed by Little Mecrat- tina Island on tlii« east and narriiigton Islands, together with thi^ main- land, on the west, and is navigable about i miles to the northward Idiii Cape .NLu^kinnon. Paynter Point is formed of small' islets close to the mainland, and the course and distance to it, along the east side of tho Ihnriiigtoii Islands, is X. 17° K., 1 miles. ■ Aid and Close Islets. — Tliere is no danger on the west side of Ayl- mer Sound but what appears and is close to the shore; but on thei'ast side there are two small islets, the outermost oi'wliit!!!, Aiil Islet, bears N. 73° VV., and is distant a little less than a iniU' from Cape .Macki>)iioii, and is S()() yards offshore. The other, (Jlose Islet, lies about hi /'way between the (Mpe and Aid Islet, and about L'OO yard.-' off shore. Spray Reef, small, awash at low water, and bold all round, lies H. 08° W., U miles from Cape iMackinnon ; and S. 40° W.. one mile fvoni Aid Islet. This is the only danger in the eiitrani;e of the sound that can not always be .seen; and vessels had better j)ass to the westward of it, because the |)a.ssage between it and Aid Islet has not been sounded. Doyle Islands are four in tiuini)er, but they appear from s(ni as two only. The two western islands are very low, and close together, being joined at low water; the two e.-isterii are of moderate height, and also clo.se together. Their east point bears N. 10° VV,, 2 miles from Craig Point, which is the west extreme of Little Mecattiua, distant one mile from Cape Mackiiinon. Lou Road.^-North of the Doyle Islands, between them and Louisa Harbor, there is a line roomy roadstead called Lou Road, in which vessels may anchor in from 12 to 4 fathoms, over muddy bottom, the soundings decreasing gradually to the westward from the line Joining the eastern Doyle Island and Boot Point, over to Crescent Point, a distance of about a mile. Louisa Harbor is about 400 yards wide at the entrance. Ti>e points of entrance are quite bold, and the best anchorage is 300 ypr.'s . ithin them, in 4 fathoms, and in the southern part of the harbor. Directions. — The only directions for sailing into Louisa Harbor, or into Lou Road between it and the Doyle Islands, are to ir.jcp the east- ern side of the latter aboard, to avoid the ledges lying across the en- trance of Salaberry Bay, as already mentioned. When once inside of the island there is nothing in the way, so that a vessel may either anchor in the road or run into the harbor as convenient. In the sound outside of the Doyle Islands the only thing to be guarded against is Spray Reef. There are irregular soundings with as little as 11 fathoms over rocky bottom here and there, but in general the depth is from 19 to 23 fathoms, with rock, sand, and mud bottom. The ground can not be trusted until within the Doyle Islands. I r i -■» ■il emt liSltmtmKiXtsSlSBSm'^tasSsl Mj i ii^ ^v:. 144 GRAND POINT TO CAPE WHITTLE. Harrington Islands extend northward 4 miles, from Gape Airy to the mainland, there being no channel within them. They are high islands, the highest being estimated at 350 feet al>ove the sea. Between the outer and largest islands there is indifferent anchorage and deep water, but the channels leading to it are narrow, and too intricate for any directions to avail. It is a very dangerous place, and useless, ex- cepting to small vessels intimately acquainted with the coast. Black Reef, bearing from Cape Airy S. 16° E., 2 miles, is composed of low black rocks above water, about 300 yards in diameter, bold, but with very irregular soundings around it, varying from 6 to 70 fathoms over rocky bottom. Major Reef, awash at low water and very small, bears S. 68° W., IJ miles from Cape Airy. Netagamu Islands, bearing S. 68° W., 4^ miles from Cape Airy, are small, with a remarkable mound on the largest of them. Between them and the Harrington Islands there is a bay of the mainland with clay clitfs and sandy beach at its head and innumerable small rocks across its mouth. Netagamu River. — The entrance to this river may be known by the sandy beach, backed with a thick growth of spruce trees on either side of its entrance. It is a large stream with deep water in the narrow en- trance, and also close up to the falls, which are 1^ miles from the en- trance, and can be partly seen from the sea, when they bear N. 23° B. A semicircular bar of sand, dry at low water, with the exception of a narrow channel with 3 feet water in it, extends a mile out from the entrance, and is extremely dangerous to boats because of the heavy surf. On the eastern side, a mile within the entrance, there are two huts, the temporary residence of salmon fishermen during the season. St. Mary Islands lie 7 miles off the mainland, and their east extreme bears 8. 37° W., 10 miles from Cape Airy. There are two of those islands so close together that they may be considered as one narrow island about 3 miles long. They are of bare steep granite and bold all round. Cliff Islands lie '^ mile west of the south point of the St. Mary Is- lands. There is a ledge which shows to the SVV. of them. The Cliff" Islands are one round and steep island ^ mile in diameter, with several small islets and rocks close to the westward of it, and deep water be- tween them all. Between these and the Boat Islands there is a safe channel ^ mile wide. Boat Islands, a cluster of small islands close together, lie S. 65° W., 2J miles from the SW. point of St. Mary Islands. Middle Islands are a chain of islands, nearly joined at low water, •with several small islets adjacent. The westernmost island is 2^ miles long and 150 feet high. The whole group covers a space of 3J miles in a SW. direction, by about a mile wide. There is a good anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms between the westernmost island, and two smaller from Cape Airy to m. They are high e the sea. Between ucborage and deep nd too intricate for ce, aud useless, ex- the coast. \ miles, is composed diameter, bold, but om 6 to 70 fatboms 1, bears S. 68° W., rom Cape Airy, are of them. Between the mainland with lerable small rocks ly be known by the trees on either side jr in the narrow en- miles from the eu- hey bear N. 23° E. the exception of a mile out from the 3au8e of the heavy mce, there are two uring the season. their east extreme are two of those red as one narrow ranite and bold all )f the St. Mary Is- them. The Cliff neter, with several ad deep water be- nds there is a safe ither, lie S. 65° W., ined at low water, : island is 2^ miles pace of 3^ miles in ^ood anchorage in , and two smaller MIDDLE I8I,ANDS — WATA0HEI8TIC SOUND, 14.5 Islands to the northward of it; but it is too small for large vessels and too intricate for description, andean only be approached from tije east- ward. Middle Islands lie IJ miles from the main, and there is no safe chan- nel between, in consequence of the numerous islets and rooks. Between these islands and Bout Islands there is a safe channel, more than a mile wide. In all these channels the soundings are irregular, and the t^iound foul. In some places there are only 15, whilst in others there are 40 or 50 fathoms water. Tender Reef is small and awash at low water. It bears N. 50° W. iwarly a mile from the northernmost of the St. Mary Keefs, 8. 40° VV., 1^ miles from the 8VV. extreme of the Boat Islands. St. Mary Reefs, the most dangerous off the coast, are four ledges just under water, on some of which the sea always breaks. From the northern to the southern ledge tlie distance is a mile, and the latter bears S. 40° W., 3:^ miles from the soutli extreme of tlie Boat Islands ; 8. 40° \V., G miles I'rom the SW. extreme of St. Mary Islands ; and 8. 72° B., 3^ miles from the westernmost of SW. Islands, which are a group of small islets, of which the westernmost is high and round. There is a patclj of 12 fathoms lying 2 miles to the southward of St. Mary Reefs, and another of 8 fathoms, nearly as far to the southwestward of them. Channels — There are irregular soundings and deep water around aud between all these rocks ;i:«d islets, but no warning by the hand- lead. There is a clear channel between Tender Reef and SW. Islands, and also between St. Mary Reefs and Boat Islands ; at least there is nothing with so little water as 3 fathoms. Watagheistic Island and Sound.— Watagheistic is a large and hilly island 3 miles long by more than 1^ miles wide. It is much broken " into coves, and lies in the mouth of a large bay of the mainland, from which it is difficult to distinguish it from a vessel out at sea. Wata- gheistic Souad is a secure harbor between the island and the mainland. The eastern entrance is narrow and intricate ; but the western entrance is J mile wide ; aud although there are several rocks and ledges in it, yet it may be safely sailed through, with proper care, in the largest vessels. Cove Island is ^ mile in diameter, and surrounded with rocks and ledges. It bears N. 55° W., 4 miles from the north point of St. Mary Islands, and there are thickly scattered rocks, both above and under water, all the way from it to the Netagamu Islands. Caution. — The following brief directions are given, with the caution that their use must be accompanied with a good lookout from the rig. ging, for it is impossible to be certain that every ledge has been found in such a place, although there is e rery reason to suppose that none have escaped notice. Directions for Eastern Entrance. — Being to the westward with a westerly wind, a vessel may either pass between Tender Reef and SW. 5489 10 ll 'A Jl 146 GRAND POINT TO CAPE WHITTLE. ^*i :lr illr lalaiuls, ur she may riiu down outside St. Mary Keefs, and then haul ill to the northward between Boat and Clitf IsUinds, which iH the safer route, and tlie one for which the following directions are given. Being then in luidchannel between Boat and Clitt' Islands, steer N. 22° W., which will lead close to Bold Kock, lying N. 57° B. J mile from the east point of the Middle Islands. The Center Reef, which always shows, bears N. 46° E. U miles from Bold Rock ; and there is a clear channel between them, but not between Bold Rock and Middle Islands. ' Passing to the eastward of Bold Rock at the distance of ^ mile, alter course to N. 44° W., and when she has run 2;^ miles farther she will be midway between Black Ledge and Bare Rocks, the latter bearing from the former N. 37° E. IJ miles. Do not go near this ledge, which has not been sounded off. Alter course now to N. 5° W., passing to the westward of all the islets to the northwestward of Cove Island, and when the vessel has run IJ miles, Beacon Islet will be seen (close to the SB. extreme of Watagheistic Island, a ad with a smaller islet ^ mile to the westward of it) ^ mile ahead. Run past this islet sufficiently far to avoid a reef and S-fathoms patch, which together extend 800 yards off it to the northward. When the vessel has run ^ mile from the time Beacon Islet was abeam a deep bay will be observed in the east side of Watagheistic Island. Steer for the narrow channel between the north point of this bay and two small islets which lie nearly 300 yards off it to the NE. As soon as she arrives at these islets another deep cove will be seen in Watagheistic Island, with an islet nearly filling up its mouth. Steer to pass close to the <;i\8tward of this islet, and then westward for the channel between Watagheistic Island and the islands to the eastward which extend across to the mainland in that direction. The channel is at first only about 170 yards wide, but it soon expands to 320 yards, with a depth of 15 fathoms in the middle over mud bottom, where the vessel may anchor in great security. After she has passed the reef off Beacon Island there is nothing in the way by this route, the islands being quite bold. Reef. — If wishing to run through into the Upper Sound beware of a reef which lies across the mouth of the channel at the distance of 300 yards. As there is no safe channel to the eastward of Cove Island, a vessel can not approach this anchorage with an easterly wind without first beating up along the south side of Watagheistic Island, after she has passed between the Bare Rocks and Black Ledge, so that in that case the western entrance to Watagheistic Sound is to be preferred. Directions for Western Entrance. — Being to the eastward, steer for the NE. point of St. Mary Islands, which may be passed at the distance of 400 yards, and then bringing it astern, steer from it S. 88° W., and the Center Reef, which is bold all around, may be passed on either side at the distance of 400 yards, but to the southward of it is to be preferred. Continue this course for a mil past the reef, then haul up N. 47° W., aad then haul licli ia the safer i giveu. Being iteer N. 22° W., mile from the h always shows, a dear chanuel Islauds. ' auce of )( mile, ^ miles farther ocks, the latter near this ledge, . 5° W., passing of Cove Island, I be seen (close smaller islet ^ slet sufQcieutly xteud 800 yards [slet was abeam gheistic Island. »f this bay and fE. As soon as in Watagheistic to pass close to hannel between h extend across st only about depth of 15 iel may anchor n\ Island there lite bold. nd beware of a istance of 300 Uove Island, a wind without and, after she 80 that in that )e preferred. eastward, steer passed at the from it S. 88° be passed on ward of it is to up N. 470 W., WATAGHEISTIC SOUND — CORMORANT ROCKS. 147 a and when the vessel has run 3 miles the channel to the westward be- tween Watagheistic Island and the mainland will be open, and two small islets will be seen nearly in its center, in one, bearing S. 77° W. They are 4 mile from each other, and quite bold, but bear in mind that exactly in the line from the one islet to the other, and 700 yards from the easternmost of them is Kettle Rock, very small, and just covered at low water. This rock lies exactly in a line from Seal Islands to the point of a shoal covo of Watagheistic Island, which is open to the east- ward. There is a rock awash IGO yards off the point of this cove to the southward. The channels on feither side of Kettle Rock, which is quite bold, are each ^ mile wide, and have from 20 to 20 fathoms water in them. Having brought the islets in one, the vessel has only to avoid Kettle Rock, running in S. 77° W. on either side of it, and the two islets to the westward of it, and then hauling up to the northward under the west end of Watagheistic Island, where she may anchor in from 17 to 20 fathoms over mud bottom, well sheltered from all winds. Upper Sound. — Wood and water may be had there in plenty, and in Hamelle Harbor, at the eastern extremity of the sound, a hunter and salmon fisher resides ; and there is another in Bouissier Bay, which has been noticed as lying to the westward on the way to the western en- trance into the sound. Anchorage.— There is no good anchorage on the route to, or outside, either entrance to Watagheistic, the soundings being irregular, with deep water and generally foul ground. The breakers on every side, on so many rocks and ledges, make the place look, as it really is, extremely dangerous. Btamamu River. — Between the Middle Islands and Wapitagun, the mainland is broken into coves, and lined with islets and rocks innumer- able, among which nothing but a very small vessel, well acquainted with the coast, could find her way. There is nothing there worthy of notice, excepting Etamamu River, which enters a bay open to the SW. full of islets and rocks. The river, consisting of a succession of rapids, is generally narrow ; it, however, widens in several places, forming lakes with still, deep water. Trading Post. — At the mouth of this river theie is a trading and salmon fishery post, at which two men reside all the year. South Makers Ledge is a small rock which is never entirely cov- ered when the sea is smooth. Its whole extent, above and under water, is 250 yards east and west by 100 yards north and south, and there is no danger near it excepting a patch of 4 fathoms, bearing from it S. 66° E., and distant 400 yards. The soundings are very irregular round this ledge. It bears from Cape Whittle S. 78° E. 6^ miles. Cormorant Rocks lie directly between Cape Whittle and South Makers Ledge, leaving a channel between those rocks and the ledge nearly 2^ miles wide. There is no danger excepting the claws of Cor- morant Rocks, one of which, with 4 fathoms, stretches 750 yards S- 27° '- ' v;. - . '!i ^;i-