'iu ^T^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. <^ .4^ 1.0 I.I !^ I- III 2-0 1.8 1-25 1.4 1.6 ■^ /l" o ^ V] ./nt 6t6 filmdes d nouveau de fapon d obtenir la meilleure image porssible. The poti cf tl film Orifl begl the sion othi first •ion oril The thai TINI whii Map diff< entii begl righ reqi met This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqud ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X ., 1 / 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X Is J ifier ie ige Th« copy filmad her* has b««n raproducad thanks to tha ganarosity of: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia Tha imagas appaaring hara ara tha bast quality possibia considaring tha condition and laglblllty rf tha original copy and In Itaaping with tha filming contract spacifications. L'axamplaira film* fut raproduit grAca A la gAnArosIti da: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia Las imagas suivantas ont AtA raprodultas avac la plus grand soin, compte tanu da la condition at da la nattatA da l'axamplaira filmA, at en conformity avac las conditions du c^ntrat da filmaga. Original copias In printad papar covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated Inr pres- sion, or the bacit cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a priTitad or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est ImprimAe sont filmAs en commengan. par la premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'Impression ou d'lllustration, soit par la second plat, salon Ie cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmAs en commenpant par la premiAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'Impression ou d'lllustration et en terminant par la derniAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfich? shall contain the symbol ^^ (meaning "CON- TINUED "), or the symbol V (meaning "END "), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur Ie dsrnidre image da cheque microfiche, seion Ie cas: Ie symbole — ^> signifie "A SUIVRE", Ie symbols V signifie "FIN". IMaps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure ara filmed beginning in the upper left hund corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmis A des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour Atre raproduit en un seul cliche, il est fiim6 A partir de I'angia supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'imagas nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. ita ure. ] IX 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 -1' ll I •ss-wTsr i<*v-hl. tiO' i;i" hii' liT fi ill passed away, and until the country had enjoyed internal tranquillity for many years, that the modern spirit of seafaring adventure became a national characteristic. Early Eng'lish Expeditions. As early as 1527, one Robert Thorne, of Bristol, then as now an important seaport, proposed a passage to India by going across the North Pole, which was actually attempted the same year. Bristol had the enviable honour of giving birth to Sebastian Cabot, the first Englishman who set foot on the American Continent. Indeed, so far as early maritime enterprise is concerned, the west countrymen, including Drake, Hawkins, &c., stand unrivalled for skill and bravery. The merchants of London, in the reign of Edward VI., 1553, equipped three vessels under the command of Sir Hugh Willoughby, ancestor to the present Lord Middleton, to search for a safe passage through the icy seas of the north of Europe to the mysterious land of Cathay (China), then reputed a place exceedingly rich in the precious metals. These vessels were fitted out at Deptford, under the direction of Sebastian Cabot, and sailed on nth May, carrying with them fifteen months' provisions. On the 30th July they reached a prominent point in the island of Mageroe, on the north of Norway, which they named the North Cape, still a well-known promontory. Soon after one of the vessels separated from the others, and was drifted into the White Sea. The remaining two selected the most sheltered spot they could find on the north coast of Lapland, and there determined to pass the winter. It thus appears that the idea of wintering in the northern regions, in order to resume the process of exploration at the earliest opportunity in the following year, originated in the very infancy of Arctic expeditions. In that part of the world it is the custom of the fishermen to retire south on the approach of winter, and to retrace their steps when the season opens in the following year. On their return in the following spring, 1554, an appalling spectacle presented itself — the crews of both English vessels frozen to death. The crew of the third vessel which had entered the White Sea effected a landing near the mouth of the North Dwina River, and were conveyed on sledges to Moscow, then the capital of Russia, and were admitted into the presence of Ivan, better known as ' the Terrible,' who occupied the Kremlin, as Potentate of all the Russians.* On • Ivan came to the Russian throne in 1533, at the age of three years ; and during his long minority the country was distracted by the selfish feuds of rival nobles, each striving to secure power for himself. On reaching his majority, Ivan found himself under the beneficent influence of two wise counsellors, and the first part of his reign turned out one of the most beneficial for his country. Printing was introduced, the first standing army was established in Russia ; the kingdom of Kazan was subdued, and its dominions annexed ; Astrakhan shared a similar fate soon after ; and the INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. his being presented with a letter from King Edward, the ship- wrecked Englishmen were treated to his semi barbaric hospitality, dining daily at his table ; and were finally dismissed in the ensuing spring, accompanied by an ambassador to England. Their return, however, was not propitious : most of them were lo: t on the coast of Scotland : the remainder with the ambassador reached London in safety: and shortly afterwards a company was established to trade with the White Sea. It is worthy of remark that neither Archangel nor St. Petersburgh was in existence at this remote period. Several additional expeditions v/ere equipped both by the English and the Dutch, into the details of which it would be superfluous to enter. The first person who attempted a North-West Passage, was Sebastian Cabot, whose crew becoming stricken with fear at the entrance to Baffin Bay, compelled him to return to England, The troubles of Mary's reign, and the diffidence in the early part of Elizabeth's, combined with a strong feeling of individual insecurity, were utterly adverse to foreign adventure. In 1576, however, Martin Frobisher set out in a second expedition, equipped at the expense of the Earl of Warwick, in quest of a North-West Passage, which was only discovered in 1854, as we shall see further on. He sighted the coasts of Greenland and Labrador, and reached Hudson Bay. Returnin'^ safely home, wide-spread speculation arose on the sanguine reports of the sailors of the existence of gold in the regions which they had visited. Three vessels were sent out in the following year, at the expense of the Queen, who seems to have inherited with the arbitrary spirit of theTudors some of her grandfather's desire for money. Nor was the result of this expedition sufficient to dispel the national delusion, and Frobisher soon after found himself in command of another expedition in the midst of fogs and icebergs on the coast of America. All that need be mentioned in connection with this voyage, is, that it safely returned to England in time to allow its gallant leader to signalize himself in the defence of his country against the formidable Spanish Armada. Drake, in 1578, after sailing through the straits of Magellan, plundered the Spanish pjssessions on the coast of Peru, and secured treasure to the value of ;^i 50.000. Fearing if he returned southwards the Spaniards would intercept him, he determined to go northwards in anticipation of meeting a northerly opening from the Pacific to the Atlantic, similar to that on the south of South America. He pro- Tartars of the Crimea were held in check. Ivan's character, however, suffered a complete change, he banished his wise old counsellors ; he beheaded many of his nobles, and exiled many more ; and finally he murdered his eldest son with one fell blow. Hence the cognomen which has clung to him in history. He died, a.d., 1584. 10 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 87 5-6. ceeded north to about the mouth of the Columbia River, explored the coast for some distance, landed, and called the country New Albion. But the increasing cold so aflfected his men, that he determined to sail across the Pacific, and return home by the Cape of Good Hope, an achievement which he duly effected, landing at Plymouth in September 1580, having circumnavigated the globe. In 1583 Sir Hutnpkrey Gilbert sdi\\td. at the head of five ships to make western discoveries. He arrived safely in t'-e harbour of St. John's, Newfoundland, but on the return voyage, he went down with his ship in an Atlantic storm. The expeditions of Captain John Davis, after whom the strait at the entrance to Bafhn Bay is named, brought little further information. In this year (1606) John Ktii^ht, an adventurer, was killed by the Esquimaux, and little further trace remains of his expedition. Henry Hudson was the first who was sent out with instructions to try and reach the Pole itself. But he was interrupted by the ice on the coast of Spitzbergen. It was in 1610 that he partially explored that capacious bay, which still appropriately bears his name, and which he took for an inlet of the Pacific Ocean. On prolonging his stay, how- ever, the sailors became mutinous, and finally lowered him and the carpenter in a boat, which they sent adrift. Shortly afterwards, Greene, the chief instigator of the mutiny, was killed in an encounter with the Esquimaux, but poor Hudson was never after heard of. Sir Thomas Button, an enterprising sailor, wintered at the mouth of the Nelson River, in 161 2, after crossing Hudson Bay from the E. side, and returned safely home, though many of his crew perished from the effects of the extreme cold to which they were subjected. No part of the Arctic regions, of late years, has been so much frequented as Baffin Bay, so named from an English pilot, who in those days of maritime speculation, thought he could reach Japan, by a North-West route. In latitude 78" he discovered a sound, which he named Smith, after his patron Sir Thomas Smith. It will be seen, this sound was in some degree the scene of the labours of the late expedition. This worthy adventurer also entered Jones and Lan- caster Sounds ; but on his crew becoming sickly he returned to Europe. The tides in Hudson Bay were long observed to be different from those of other inland seas, such as tie Mediterranean, and hence a strong argument in favour of the existence of a North-West passage. Baffn performed this wonderful voyage 'n a vessel of only 55 tons burden, the very vessel used by Hudson. The Discovery sailed from the Thames in 1616 with a crew of only 17 men. It was in 1631 that Fox a.nd fames partially explored the respective seas, which bear their names. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. II The Russians sent out an expedition under Behringin 1741, which made considerable explorations. He was stopped at the East Cape by the accumulated ice. The Hon. Daines Barrington, collected, early in the reign of George HI., all the information he could find bearing on the circum- navigation of the Pole. Having read an interesting paper on the subject, before the Royal Society, an expedition was sent out in 1773, under the command of Captain Phipps (afterwards Lord Mulgrave), consisting of two vessels, the Racehorse and Carcase. Finding it impossible to penetrate the wall of ice which they met, about 80" N. latitude, north of Spitzbergen, they returned to England. In this, the first polar expedition fitted out by our Government, there was a boy, who was afterwards destined to figure as the maritime hero of his country. Ve need not sry the boy's name was Nelson. Captain Cook sailed north through Behring Strait, and explored both the eastern and western coasts ; but was compelled to retrace his steps on meeting a compact wall of ice in latitude 70"* 44' in the neighbourhood of Icy Cape in Alaska. ipan, irhich leen, late ILan- ppe. from :e a |age. Itons From Itive The North-West Passagre. About the beginning of the present century one of the most convincing proofs of a North-West Passage was afforded to mariners. A whale that had been captured in Behring Strait, had actually carried with it a harpoon that was fired at it on the coast of Greenland. But the attention of all Europe having been engrossed for many years by the wars which followed the French Revolution, scientific research was allowed to slumber, and naval discoveries were unheard of. Our Admiralty, however, in 181 8, sent out Captain Ross in the Isabella and Lieutenant Parry in the Alexander, which left the Thames in April. On 26th May, the Isabella fell in with above forty whalers, detained by the ice, a little north of Disco Island. The two vessels were frequently in imminent danger, arising from pressure, grips, or concussions of the ice floes, and the crews in trying to get them freed, underwent indes- cr'^'^le hardships. Having explored Baffin Bay, and penetrated Lancaster Sound for 30 miles, Ross returned with the positive con- viction that no west-ward passage existed. Parry, however, did not agree in this conclusion of his chief, and boldly declared he could see no land at the bottom of Lancaster Sound. In conjunction with this expedition, another was despatched to the north of Asia, under Captain Bucan, who reported on his return, that he had seen the sun at midnight; and he gave an account of other Arctic celestial appearances unknown in lower latitudes. He encountered X3 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6, I many storms, and at 80° N. became entangled in the ice, from which, after many perils. Captain Bucan, and Lieutenant Franklin suc- ceeded in escaping with their vessels the following year. In 1819, Parry was again sent out, and about the end of July, entered Lancaster Sound. An eastern breeze wafted them westwards, until they reached 110° W. longitude. Here a nook was selected to winter in, and Parry took particular care to' assemble his men daily, to whom he served out lime juice and sugar as a preventive against scurvy. To keep the crew healthy during the long Arctic winter, many expedients were adopted, into the minute details of which it is needless to enter. As the winter set in, all animals, save a pack of wolves, betook themselves south- wards. It was in the following February when the sun reappeared, after being three months below the horizon, that the most intense cold was experienced, the thermometer remaining several hours 76° below the freezing point. Just a? the greatest heat of the day is not at noon, but a few hours after, the heat continuing to accumulate, so with the Arctic winter, the greatest cold is not on the 2i&t December, but several weeks after. About the beginning of May, the temperature having risen to freezing point, and beasts and birds having come back to their summer haunts, the hardy mariners determined to return to Europe, but only succeeded in getting away from their winter moorings on the 2nd of August, and made for England, which they reached after an absence of eighteen months, or a month longer than the recent expedition ; and, on their return, were awarded the ;!C5ooo that had long been promised by Parliament to the first vessel that should reach the iioth ireridian. Only one death occurred, and this from natural causes. This expedition was considered by all parties eminently satisfactory, and the explorers received the warmest congratulations. It was now determined to go further west in lower latitudes, as a means of at least partially avoiding the ice which previously had been so troublesome. Commander Parry went iu the Fury, and Commander G. F. Lyon in the Hecla,'^\\ki 118 men all told. They left the Nore on 8th May 182 1, and on 17th June one of the quarter- boats of the Hecla was carried away. Captain Lyon gives some very interesting details in his history of this voyage, of the habits of the Esquimaux, and of the animals and plants of the Arctic regions. This expedition, however, came far short of the previous one, and his third voyage in the summer of 1824, was similarly unsuccessful. Parry says the thermometer remained below zero for 131 days; and the sun was not visible for 121 days. Many exploring parties were sent out. One of his vessels was lost in a collision against an ice field. The coast of North America through Behring Strait was examined up to 109^ W. longitude, and only i® remained to be explored. sfiifi i- *. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. >3 While Parry was thus bravely battling by sea, a land expedition was fitted out (1825), with the object of co-operating with him, under the command of Lieutenant Franklin, a native of Spilsby, in Lincoln, who, with great difficulty, penetrated the North American woods and morasses, west of Hudson Bay and the Coppermine River. At length they reached a place, in frail canoes, which they named Cape Enterprise, in the north centre of the continent, about 400 miles east of the mouth of the Coppermine River, from the mouth of which they had set out. On the return journey they underwent indescribable misery and wretchedness. During eighteen days Franklin and a pioneer party lived on a kind of soup made from the skins of the deer which they had shot the previous winter. On the arrival of Dr. Richardson and the remaining men at Fort Franklin, they heard even more harrowing tales of suffering. Their voices had become sepulchral ; their countenances lean and haggard, and their frames extremely emaciated ; and, had not relief, long-promised but delayed by one of those unaccountable mishaps which are so often experienced in human affairs and so seldom explained, arrived, a few days more would have terminated their earthly sojournings. The details of the exploration of the Coppermine River the following year by these intrepid men, Franklin and Richardson ; of their almost meeting Captain Beechey, near Barrow Point, who had sailed round by Behring Strait in the Blossom ; of the murder of some of their companions, by the treacherous Indian, named Michel, who, in turn, was shot by Dr. Richardson ; of their difficulties and dangers, are fully as interesting as a first-class novel. Parry's Fourth Voyage. In 1827, Parry, who brought with him eight reindeer from Norway, was sent out in the Hecla, which he and his party left on the north shore of Spitzbergen on 22nd of June, and attempted to cross the ice to the North Pole, by means of boats and sledges. They floated the boats for about eighty miles. Here they came to a mixed surface of ice and water, and their difficulties began. They chiefly travelled by night, and slept by day in their boats, which had been specially prepared in England for this kind of journey. It was only on the 22nd of July they discovered to their intense chagrin that the ice was proceeding south just as iast as they, with mighty exertions, were going north; and accordingly, after reaching 82" 45', and enduring untold hardships and risks. Parry returned towards the south. They reached the ship on 21st of August, after sixty-one days of constant exposure to wet, cold, and fatigue. A.nother energetic explorer, Captain John Ross, already named, who 1 1 14 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 87 5-6. r remained four winters (1829-33) ^^ these desolate regions, arrived home when every vestige of his existence had disappeared, and every hope of seeing him again had been abandoned by his friends. It was this dauntless individual who discovered the peninsula of Boothia, which is north-west of Melville peninsula. Ross's expedition having been equipped by Sir Felix Booth, who contributed ;^i 7,000 for the purpose, the name of the newly-discovered land was given in honour of the patron. Ross himself was so enthusiastic that he subscribed ;^30oo out of his private means. On this occasion the Victory, a small Liverpool steamer, was equipped, and only twenty-eight individuals formed the crew. It is on the west of this peninsula that the magnetic pole is, 97 ^^ W. longitude and 70° N. latitude, at which the needle is perpendicular. This was found out in 1831, and the spot was visited by M'CHntock in 1859. In 1833, Captain George Back, R.N,, was placed at the head of a relief party, which was partly fitted out by private subscription, and partly by the Government. They proceeded from Montreal west, to Lakes Winnipeg and Aylmer, and explored the Great Fish River to the Sea. He returned in 1835, not before he had received the welcome intelligence, that the object of his search, Captain Ross, had landed in England, and was awarded the Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society. In 1838-9, Dease and Simpson made further explorations in the same district, having been despatched by the Hudson Bay Company to survey the northern oast of their territories. They discovered the Colville river, wintered at Great Bear Lake, and went as far north as Cape Parry. They had hoped to find a channel at the south of Boothia, which, in 1847, was found out by Dr. John Rae* to be a peninsula. After several smaller enterprises in various parts of the globe, the Government of England, still anxious to be in the van of maritime discovery, fitted out a larger expedition than any of the previous, consisting of 139 men, and placed Franklin, now in his sixtieth year, at its head, 1845.! On 22nd June the expedition entered Davis Strait, and arrived at Disco, a place of which we shall speak more particularly further on, about the ist of July. On 12th July, Franklin sent out despatches, which * A gentleman whom we had the pleasure of seeing a few days ago, and who still takes deep interest in Arctic Explorations. t The second in command was Captain Crozier, a native of Banbridge, in the County of Down, who had been out three times with Parry. Another officer, Fitz- James had served as Captain in the Eastern Seas. Lieut. Gore had been under Back in 1836. Lieut. Fairholme had visited the Niger. Dr. Stanley had long practised in China ; and Goodsir, his assistant, had been Curator of the Edinburgh museum. Franklin was Captain of the Erebus, and Crozier of the Terror; and Dr. Richard King had been with Back at the mouth of Great Fish River. 1- » ^ - i\ INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. IS duly reached England ; and he then proceeded northward. In July, Captain Martin, a Peterhead Whaler, met the ships in latitude 75° N. Another captain saw them in Hudson Bay a few days later. Franklin was instructed to enter Lancaster Sound, then proceed through Barrow Strait, to avoid Melville Island, but to make for Behring Strait. Having been provisioned for three years, anxiety touching their absence only arose when they did not return the third winter. Several relief parties were sent forward, and people vied with each other to enter the ranks of these forlorn hopes, in almost twenty dreary voyages. An expedition under Captain Ommanney, and Lieut. Osborn first found traces of Franklin in 1850, at the entrance to Wellington Channel, where it appeared some tents had been pitched, and a few graves were discovered on Beechey Island. Captain H. T. Austin was chief in command of this expedition, which consisted of two sailing vessels, the Resolute and the Assistance, with two steam-tenders, in charge of one of which, the Pioneer, was Lieut. Osborn. It was in this expedition that M'Clintock, afterwards Sir Leopold, perfected the system of sledge travelling, which has been so much resorted to in the recent enterprise, under Captain Nares. After the ships were frozen in, they immediately organized exploring parties for the purpose of training the men in the arduous duties of sledging, pitching tents, &c., before the winter cold became extreme. And, again, on the approach of spring, the necessary equipments were prepared, provisions were got ready, and other necessaries arranged for the exploring parties, which they despatched at the earliest moment possible. Captain Ommanney, at the head of a sledge party, passed over Barrow Strait, and, having explored Prince of Wales Land, returned safely to the vessels after an absence of sixty days. Indeed, this expedition is particularly remarkable for its immunity from sickness, which is attributed to good ventilation, open air exercise, rational amusement, and, above all, cleanliness, and a judicious use of lime juice. Discovery of the North-West Petssage. Vice- Admiral Sir Robert M^Clure, whose father, a Captain of the 89th Regiment, served with distinction under General Abercrombie, in Egypt, was sent out as Commander of the Investigator in search of Franklin, 1850. He doubled Cape Horn, passed northwards near to the Sandwich Islands, sailed through Behring Strait, and * keeping close along the American coast, he rounded Point Barrow, the extreme point to which exploration had been carried by a ship from the westward.' After very difficult navigation they wintered in the pack, within thirty miles of Banks Strait, on i6th September. Having i6 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. Started with a sledge party, in October, they ascended a hill on Bank* Land, from which they clearly discerned the long sought connection between the waters on the east and those on the west of the North American Continent. In the immediate neighbourhood of Banks Land, M'Clure passed three dreary winters. On the 6th April 1854, two gentlemen from the Resolute, commanded by Captain Henry Kellett, a native of Clonmel, succeeded in reaching the Investigator, which its crew abandoned, and all having passed the following winter in the Resolute, it in turn was deserted in the ensuing spring, and the whole party succeeding in returning to Europe in some Whaling ships, thus making the long sought North-West Passage. Captain M'Clure was knighted on his arrival in England, and the officers and crew of his vessel received ^10,000 from our Government. The first important information concerning Franklin was obtained from the Esquimaux in 1854. They reached the mouth of the Great Fish River, a little north of the Arctic circle ; and here there was con- clusive evidence that they succumbed to starvation. At the mouth of the river, in 1857, Captain M'Clintock in the Fox, succeeded in tracing the remains of the Franklin expedition — human remains, human skeletons, the saddest of spectacles. A document found here described the death of FrankUn, nth June 1847, and the abandonment of their vessels. In 1854, the Americans reached 82° 27', and their vessel the Polaris, in 187 1, reached 82" 16' N. latitude. We consider it necessary to dwell more particularly on the Austrian expedition, 1872-4. Though the British Government for many years discountenanced a renewal of the attempts to reach the Pole, yet many enterprises with this object in view were undertaken by other countries. A Swedish savant, in 1868, went almost as far north as Parry did in 1827. The Germans, with their usual pluck, equipped an expedition in 1869, which on reaching the northern latitudes was subjected to untellable hard- ships. One of the vessels, the Hansa, on attempting to force a passage through the ice on the east coast of Greenland, in 73° 6' N. latitude, became completely frozen in, and as the winter began to advance it was foundered by the closing in of the ice. Meanwhile the crew, antici- pating the worst, had transferred all their provisions, &c., to a large floe, wb-Lre they determined to pass the winter, if the natural southward drift of the ice did not lead to their rescue. About the beginning of January 1870, they had gradually drifted to 68", and shortly after reached the neighbourhood of Cape Farewell, about 60°. The break-up of the floe from the increased roughness of the sea brought them into imminent danger. Fleeing to their boats they struggled successfully to reach the shore, and finally reached the Danish Station, Fredericksthal, INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 17 in Greenland, whence they succeeded towards the end of the summer, in getting a return passage to Europe. The second vessel, the Germatiia, was also frozen in, and seems to have passed the winter in comparative comfort. On the approach of spring they found the ice an insuperable barrier against their further northern progress, and they only succeeded in tracing the coast line of East Greenland for some distance, and going into a spacious fiord, discovered a mountain range, which, from its approximate height to 15,000 feet, they denominated the Arctic Alps. They also reached Europe in safety, when, to their great consternation, they found the buoys removed from the mouths of the P^lbe and Weser, and a pilot unattainable at the usual signal station, off Heligo- land. The explanation was soon given. The recent Franco-German war was raging. Whalers in their hardy mission frequently went almost as far north as the Government expeditions. One in particular, in 187 1, is worthy of mention, namely, a steam-whaler, under the command of Captain Hall, which reached 82" 16' N. latitude, the most northern point reached by any vessel before the recent expedition, 1 8.7 5-6. r i) Austrian Expedition, 1872-4. The preliminary to this very successful expedition was a voyage in a yacht, by Lieutenant Weyprecht of the Austrian navy, who, in 187 1, made an experimental summer trip to the Arctic regions, as far as Spitzbergen, accompanied by Payer, who had himself been inspired with an ambition for Arctic discovery, and was on the scientific staff of the German expedition briefly referred to above. In 1872 these two braves sailed as joint commanders of the Austro-Hungarian expedition for the exploration of the seas east of Nova Zembla, purposing to return by Behring Strait, and through the Pacific, by rounding Cape Horn. Though only twenty-three souls constituted the ships' company, yet Germans, Italians, Slavs, Magyars, and Norsemen were among them, Italian being the official language used. These southern Europeans departed from the mouth of the Weser, with their characteristic light- heat cedness, and the merry Italian airs wiled away the hours until they reached a dreary clime, almost the very opposite of that which is experienced on the smiling Italian plains. Their hopes, Avhich had been bright, were soon damped, by their vessel, the Tcgethoff, becoming, on 20th August, completely beset by ice off the Nova Zembla coast, where probably she still remains, as all efforts for her release were fruitless. During an unusually severe winter, 1872-3, she drifted they knew not whither, until at length on 30th of the following August, in latitude 79" 43', longtitude 59° 33' E., they beheld to their infinite B '«>*.". iS THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. flelight a bold rocky coast looming in the distance, evidently a new land, hitherto unknown, and unexplored. This discovery is best given in Captain Payer's words : — * About midday, as we were leaning on the bulwarks of the ship, and scanning the gliding mists through which the rays of the sun broke ever and anon, a wall of mist, lifting itself up suddenly, revealed to us afar off in the north-west the outlines of bold rocks, which in a few minutes seemed to grow into a radiant Alpine land ! At first we all stood transfixed, and hardly believing what we saw. Then, carried away by the reality of our good fortune, we burst forth into shouts of joy — " Land ! land ! land at last ! " There was not now a sick man on l)oard the Ti'gdhoff. The news of the discovery spread in an instant. Kvery one rushed on deck to convince himself with his own eyes that the expedition was not, after all, a failure. There before us lay a prize that could not be snatched from us.' Yet the tloe on which they were seemed to drift at random, and they naturally experienced great uneasiness, for as yet they had found out no harbour in which they could winter ; and besides it seemed utterly impossible to reach this land, which they named, ' Francis Joseph Land.' From the edge of the floe they could clearly disce ■• its mountains and mysterious glaciers. Yet it was only on loth A h 1874 that they succeeded in exploring this land by sledge partii , ; and by the beginning of May they had carefully noted 450 miles of new sea, land, and island archipelago. They endured very great hardshii)s indeed \ tlie cold was often 72" (Fah.), below zero. Though the hardy Adriatic seamen are accustomed to fare poorly, yet they said the bears' flesh wliich made up their sole diet was so bad that they declared it ' only fit for the devil on a fast day.' Their stay here was as cheerless and dreary as detention in a prison, which it was in reality. They never despaired, but in the very depth of winter, they remembered the Arabic proverb, ' This too will pass away,' and never became insubordinate. No trace of scurvy appeared, and only one death occurred, tliat of an ofiicer from phthisis. Abandoning their vessel on 20th August 1874, they attempted to return to Europe on sledges. But after two months of incredible exertion they had only got two German miles from the ship. Fortunately, however, 'leads' opened in the ice, and they succeeded in reaching the open water at 77° 40' N. latitude, where they met some Russian fishermen, by whom they were conducted to Vardo, at which they arrived on 3rd September— once more, after 812 days' absence, within the range of the Telegraph. For courage, energy, and noble endurance, as well as for successful exploidtion, the members of this expedition will be long remembered. f > THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. CHAPTER I. THE ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION — SIR H. RAWLINSON AND THE PREMIER — THE ARCTIC COMMITTEE — THE SELECTION OF THE VESSELS AND PRELIMINARY PREPARATIONS — THE START — AT DISCO ISLAND. For several years the subject of Arctic Exploration had attracted the attention of geographers and men of science ; and one especially was distinguished by the zeal and earnestness with which he advocated a resumption of the labours of Parry, M'Clure, Franklin, and M'Clintock. We allude to the late Admiral Sherard Osborn. In January 1865 he read a paper before the Royal Geographical Society, eloc^uently sup- porting this object, and its reception convinced men that his advice would eventually be adopted. He was called away from this country by the duties of his profession and the necessity of supporting his family; but on his return he resumed the subject with characteristic energy. He was most ably assisted by the distinguished scholars and geographers of the day, including Sir H. Rawlinson, Sir F. L. M'Clintock, Sir R. Alcock, &c., &c. The public mind was deeply impressed by their exertions, and it only remained to convince the Government, In 1872 an exhaustive memorandum was presented by the Geographical Society, the greater part of which was written by Osborn, and he took a leading part in the deputation which afterwards waited upon Mr. Lowe and Mr. Goschen, then Chancellor of the Exchequer and First Lord of the Admiralty respectively, in Mr. Gladstone's Govern- ment. The deputation represented the Royal Geographical Society, the Royal Society, the British Association, and the Dundee Chamber of Commerce, The memorandum, embraced several points, including the best route to the Arctic Regions, the advantages to be derived from an Expedition, and the proper mode of conducting its operations. The route through Smith's Sound was that recommended, and the reasons for the recommendation given at considerable length. The advantages expected to be derived from the labours of the explorers were also the object of an extensive disquisition. The unexplored area surrounding the North Pole was nearly 2,400,000 square miles in extent ; and the 20 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. examination of any region of such a size had hitherto never failed to yield results, most important both practically and scientifically. * Further,' the memorandum says, ' it is necessary to bear in mind that the Polar area is, in many most important respects, of an altogether special character, affording exclusive opportunities for observing the conditions r{ the earth's surface, and the physical phenomena there to be seen, under certain extreme and singular circumstances, which are due to the relation of this area to the position of the axis of revolution of the terrestrial spheroid, and which have to be considered not only with reference to the present time, but to the earth's past history. It may be, therefore, received as certain that discoveries will be made in all branches of science, the exact nature of which cannot be anticipated.' The particular branches of science which an Arctic Expedition might be expected to benefit were named, and the grounds for expecting important additions to our stock of knowledge concerning each fully examined. These branches were Geography, Hydrography, Geodesy, Meteorology, Magnetism and Physics, Geology, Botany, Zoology, and Ethnology. Some of the reasoning and anticipations regarding these branches of science was necessarily of a speculative character ; and it will be seen that no opportunities whatever were afforded of contributing to the last-mentioned study. The memorandum likewise showed that private Expeditions were not competent to accomplish the necessary work successfully, and that an Expedition under Government auspices, and with the officers and men amenable to naval discipline, was likely to do far more than any previous enterprise of this nature. It was explained that, if due care were taken in selecting the vessels and crew, and if there were a proper supply of provisions and other equipments, there was very little risk of loss of life. The result of it and the deputation was unsatisfactory. In the meantime the Austrian Expedition, an account of which has been given in our mtroductory chapter, returned; and the results attained still further excited the attention of the country. What followed is best conveyed in the words of Sir Henry Rawlinscn, Presi- dent of the Royal Geographical Society, in an address delivered to that body a few days before the Expeidition left our shores. 'Arctic Exploration. — Unciuestionably the most important subject on which I have to address the Society on the present occasion is that of Arctic Exploration, especially with regard to the progress made in the great question of the resumption of Arctic Research by England since the Anniversary Meeting last year. When my predecessor. Sir Bartle Frere, reviewed the position of Arctic matters last June, as you all remember, the question of Gov ernment action, owing to a change of CHAPTER I. 21 Ministry, remained in abeyance, and it was stated that the Council proposed to bring the matter again before the present Ministers, Accordingly, in July, accompanied by Dr. Hooker and Admiral Sherard Osborn, I had the honour of waiting on Mr. Disraeli, and explaining our views to him in detail; and on this occasion I received his assurance that the question should be fully reconsidered during the Recess. Later in the year I addressed to him the following letter : — October 12th, 1874. ' Dear Mr. Disraeli-, ' The late announcement of the success of the Austrian Exploring Expedition under Lieuts. Weyprecht and Payer in discovering land to the north-west of Spitz- bergen as high up as 83°, which is the point nearest to the Pole yet sighted on the face of the earth, has excited an intense interest throughout Europe, and especially amongst our own Arctic Geographers, who have in consequence besieged me on all sides with inquiries as to the fate of the application which I had the honour to ma1"d his PU., « an elevated position i "nd L 'Ifh ' ^'"""''"'' "^ for th 'he mast head, is the position be ' , ''■ "'" '"°"'s nes, • ne, -ders, thongh the vast' m: rit y' .rett "" " '°°'-°"' '^ "•■' - aftudes, can well imagine that "l^ .■""'^^ "sited these high 'he very opposite of comfortable Yet he Jr'"^ in such a place Is ■■•" th.s trying ,i„e, scanning the hor,t„' "?'" ^••'^« ^P"'' "early crew below. Presence of mLl and , ' """^ *''""« °"'<='' '" his Pensable to both officers and men „ f T"^ '' '«°"-e are i„d Alert and Discovery, during Au. ,s and " TT'"" '' "-' "' 'he When they could manceuvre found he ice It "^ ^'^1"™"'" '875- adopted; but frequently main forc^ ' 1„' "?™"^ ™^ '"^ eou se ■ce was on all sides, and a way out houW b! ""1" "™'- ^^''^'' 'he forced, with full steam on a^ain,, , ""*' ""^ ^hips had to be laws of mechanics receiv'ed'a s" 1 ," S"/ 1 '■"' "■™"="'' "er the what a difference a good swtag ^ ^ « f r'?' °" '^^""= "-"ow Wow w,t a sledge or similar^Tptem Tv '''' '° strike a heavy behmd, the vessels were backed b ore the f !'"' '"^ ^ ^P^'ee opposmg barrier; but when there was no . "'■"' '"''' ''8^i"st the astonishing what little effect was nrod T *'' "P"»"°"' ■' wa' vemence of the latter state o ^L'ttr J° ""^"'^ "« inco ! backwards and forwatxls until ""1' ' '"*= ''^'^ fr^q-ently to push «^e. When the barrier of ce ts Too ?■ ^^^'^ '™^ ''°™^d i" 'h ■nanner, it had to be cut thrj.gh „. ,. '" '"= °^"""« ■" this purpose, or blasted with gunp^dt f, """', " '"^ ^-J^P'^d for the Why., took a week to ge't frLTc/pe L uTn! ^'^'""'^-'00,. the' of Kennedy Channel. Between tl!. r Napoleon to the entrance Frazer, generally regarded as a '! ""■ '"'^ "^""'"'^y ^^V is Cane 'ion of Smith Sound.' He'e ZZT^"'' ' ""''^'™^ ' '" 'he navt' ■"eet, and a constant a'lua; ™^ '■'''"''""'' ^"'"Ocens" result. Here Captain Na^sTb "ed rdiffe'"""^ '' ''^^^^^ « '^ fte .ce-floes and bergs coming fr„m T I '" "" '^''"^'"er of Channel, and those met in Baffin sTJ^l 'T^ "'""S'' Kennedy were much thicker, the surfacTbd^g stud^d """"'■ '''"' f°™- "emg studded over with worn down .a CHAPTER II. i} occasioned by sJons that the s- When his h of course he in striiggh'ng nature impe- imnicdiately to head his and for this ''s nest,' near '"t ; but our what ve had ever before experienced, and that few Arctic navigators had met, and only one battled with, successfully ; that in reality we must be approaching the same sea which gives birth to the ice met with in the coast of America by Collinson and M'Clure, and which the latter, in 1S51, succeeded in navigating through in a sailing vessel for up- wards of 100 miles, during his memorable and perilous j^assage from the north-western shores of Bank's Land, from Prince Alfred Cape to the Bay of Mere}', but there sealed up his ship for ever ; which Sir lu Parry met with in the same channel m 1820, but with the more difficult task before him of navigating qgainst stream and prevailing wind, was forced to own conquered even ii;m and his experienced companions ; which, passing onwards and eastwards down M'Clintock's Channel, beset and never afterwards released, the Erebus and Terror, under Sir John Franklin and Captain Crozier; and which, intermixed with light Spitzbergen ice, is constantly st'-eaming to the southward along the eastern shore of Greenland, and there destroyed the Hansa, of the Clerman Arctic Expedition.' He elsewhere describes the aspet.t of this ice, as it appeared near Lincoln Bay, about the period of the voyage with which we are now concerned : — ' The projecting point of a heavy Hoe would first ground in from ten to twelve fathoms water ; then the outer mass, continuing its course, unable to stop its progress, wou^d tear itself away from its cast- off portion. The pressure, however, still continuing, the severed piece was forced, and frequv,ntly by the parent mass itself, up the steeply-inclined shore, rising slowly and majestically o'' of the water ten v,.- twelve feet above its old line of flotation, and remaining nearly usually upright. The motion was entirely different to tliat produced when two ordinary floes, some four or six feet thick, met together ; then the broken edges of the *wo i>ieces of ice, each striving for the mastery, are readily upheaved and continually fall over with a noisy crash. Here the enormous pressure, raising pieces frequently 30,000 tons in weight, in comparative silence, displays itself with becoming solemnity and grandeur. What occurs when two eighty-foot floes meet, ,ve cannot say ; but the result, as far as a ship is concerned, CHAPTER II. 37 floating as the ice does higher out of the water than herself, would be much the same as the closing together of the two sides of a dry dock- on the confined vessel.' The Alert had to remain near Lincoln Bay for some time ; but on the I St September an -^oening occurring between the western shore and the pack, sail was made, and the vessel passed northward at the rate of 9^ knots per hour. At noon on that day, the ship was in latitude 82" 24', a higher latitude than had ever been attained by any vessel ; and the ensign was hoisted at the peak in honour of the event. The Alert had now left Robeson Channel, and fairly entered the circumpolar sea* ; but its onward career had now corr '> to a close. In battling with thv. Ice an effort had to be made to clear the pack and escape the south- ivard drift ; the vessel accordingly was brought inside a floe-berg, near Cape Sheridan, a point at the north-east of Grinnell Land. Though intended to be merely a temporary station, fate ordained it should be the prison of the Alert for many weary months ; the ice formed around, and escape was scarcely possible. The station being exposed. Captain Nares despatched Lieutenant A'drich to seek a better harbour ; but none could be found, so they had to be content with Floeberg iJeach, as their station was named ; and after events showed that this chance- given harbour was the best they could have selected, had choice been possible. Thus early in September 1875, both the Alert and Discovery were finally established in their winter quarters, the former in Floeberg Beach, latitude 82° 24' N., longitude 61° W., and the latter in Discovery Harbour, latitude 81"^ 44' N., longitude 64' 45' W. This will be a suitable occasion to take a glance at the progress of the Expedition thus far, and its future prospects. Up to this date, everything had gone on favourably. Both vessels had attained a very high latitude, without sustaining injury or loss of men; they were amply piovisioned, and in very favourable positions for the spring campaign. So far, all reason- ably' ; ndcipations had been realized, and all parties, except perhaps C.t,*i"Mi Mares himself, looked forward with hope to the opening 01" the "f. • ': \ few words concerning the geography of this region will be here ; r ^orrune. Robeson Channel opens into the circumpolar sen, forming a communication between the latter and Hall Sound, named after the ill-fated commander of the Polaris. The channel has Green- land on the enqt, and Grinnell Land on the west, has a coast consisting of steep clifTs in some parts, while in others the ice is piled up to the height of 30 or 40 feet, broken here and there by glaciers and water- courses. The regions north were the subject of much speculation, and of * Since named by him the ' PaLtocrystic Sea,' or ' Sea of Ancient Ice.' 38 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1S75-6. ! I brilliant visions on the part of imaginative geographers. It was stated, and with considerable confidence, that there was an open sea, extending to the Pole, and that land, either Greenland or Grinnell Land, or some islands adjacent, stretched away in the same direction. The climate was described in such terms that one might imagine himself reading of a happy valley. It is not easy to understand how such a delusion could last for any time. That such things as an open Polar sea and a favourable climate could be found in such a situation was so contrary to reason and experience, that nothing but the clearest testimony could establish their existence. From the position of the Pole with regard to the sun, an extreme of cold should be expected near it;* and experience has invariably proved that every advance into high latitudes, north or south, was accompanied by a corresponding decrease of temperature. The evidence to establish the existence of the open Polar sea, and of Polar land, was of the slenderest description. Some of the look-out men from the Polaris and other vessels reported the appearance of land in that direction ; and from the Alert and the stations of its sledging parties hazy clouds were seen ; hw '\l^ was plainly absurd to take such appearances as certain proofs of th*- -nee of land. Naturally the crew and officers of the Alert cast loii^, g and inquisitive glances to the northward, to see if the horizon there would reveal the land or water of promise, but nothing could be seen to support the over-flatter- ing tale. What the horizon really contained will be seen further on. * The sun shines without intermission for six months upon the Pole itself; but the heat transmitted by its rays must be comparatively trifling in amount from their great obliquity when they strike upon the earth. Again, its complete absence fur six months must, to a large extent, counteract the effect which the accumulation of heat for the preceding six months might be expected to produce. :: CHAPTER III. AUTUMN WORK — SLEDGING PARTIES — THE DEPARTURE OF THE SUN — WINTER IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS — WORK AND PLAY — THEATRICALS THE ROYAL ALEXANDRA THEATRE — GUY FAWKES IN ROBESON CHANN '- — CHRISTMAS AMIDST THE ICE — RECOLLECTIONS OF HOME. And now the work of preparing for the winter commenced. Both vessels were anchored safely in the beginning of September 1875, within about sixty miles of each other ; there was one difference between their circumstances, however ; the crew of the Alert knew where their com- rades of the other ship were stationed, but the denizens on board the Discovery were ignorant of the whereabouts of their companions. When they saw them disappear in the north, the future progress and position of the Alert could only be matter of speculation ; whether they were to meet again in the spring, to work together in the endeavour to carry their glorious enterprise to a successful conclusion, or whether they had parted, perhaps for years, or perhaps for ever — all was in the womb of time. In the meantime, the prospects were encouraging to the experienced Arctic travellers. A very high latitude, higher than any hitherto attained by ships, had been reached ; the vessels were safely anchored, in good condition, and well provisioned ; the crews were remarkably healthy and in excellent spirits j all, both officers and men, were evidently desirous to prosecute the work of exploration to a suc- cessful conclusion ; and everything that experience and foresight could suggest had been provided by the Government for their use. The locality in which they found themselves, though imperfectly known, was not an absolute terra incognita ; Sir E. Parry, Dr. Kane, and Captain Hall had previously visited these r^ gions ; and the records of their voyages were in the possession of the commanders of the expedition. There was thus every reason to suppose that they would next year be able to accomplish something decisive. But, while the autumn daylight lasted, it was necessary to utilize it as far as possible. The sun did not set until the i6th October, and much cotild be done in the interval, before the winter darkness com- pletely enveloped them. Provisions were landed and safely secured, in case fire or other accident should drive them from their ships, and sledging parties were organized to explore the surrounding 40 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 875-6. t localities as much as possible, to make deposits of provisions for the use of the spring expeditions, and to procure game. As we purpose to explain fully the mode in which these parties were equipped and organized, when we come to the narrative of the spring operations, we shall merely state here that they are of two descriptions, dog and men parties. For the former, a number of the Esquimaux dogs were attached to each ship ; in the latter, the men themselves were the ' beasts of burden,' dragging their tents, food, and clothing along with them. Besides the direct objects of these parties, they were highly useful in accustom- ing the officers and men to the duty afterwards to be discharged. We do not purpose to give a detailed account of these autumn sledging parties ; it is sufficient now to mention that four such parties were despatched from the Alert, and three from the Discovery. On the 8th September Lieutenant W. Rawson started to examine the country to the north of Cape Sheridan, where the Alert was stationed, and on the following day, another party, commanded by Lieutenant Pelham Aldrich, left the vessel on a pioneering journey towards the north. The former returned after an absence of two days, being unable to travel down Robeson Channel, either by land or water. Lieutenant Aldrich was four days absent, and was able to examine twenty miles of the coast of Grinnell Land, north of the Floeberg Beach. He had been accompanied by Captain Feilden, R.A., the naturalist attached to the Alert, and by Dr. Moss, the second surgeon of that vessel. Autumn sledging is especially difficult ; the ice and snow are mostly in a' state of * slush,' and thus keep the travellers continually wet, while the rate of progress is unusually slow and laborious. On the ixth September an opening was seen in the ice, and taking advantage of this. Commander Markham started with a strong party for the purpose of exploring, and placing depots of provisions. He was absent four days, going over the route previously traversed by Lieutenant Aldrich ; but a furious gale occurred vhich put a stop to his further progress. One of his men, John Shirley, fell from sheer exhaustion, and became seriously frost-bitten ; and Commander Markham pushed on in advance, in order to procure assistance for him as speedily as possible, leaving the remainder of the ]iarty to follow. He got his patient on board with considerable difficulty, the wind blowing furiously at the time, and Shirley fortunately recovered. Both Markham's and Aldrich's parties confirmed the impression of Captain Nares as to the non-existence of an open Polar sea, or of a Polar continent. The pjincipal danger experienced in these preliminary expeditions was from the moist snow and ice. The men getting wet, the evening cold froze their extremities, so that nearly every one suffered from frost h CHAPTER III. 41 * bites, more or less severe, while the sledges, too heavy for the support under them, were continually disappearing. Accordingly, the work of sledging v\as deferred for some time, in order to allow the ice to become sufficiently strong ; and on the 21st Sept. iber. Lieutenant Aldrich left with two lightly-equipped dog sledges to f loneer the road round Cape Joseph Henry, for a large party which was to follow ; he was absent thirteen days, during which he attained a higher latitude than that reached by Sir E. Parry in his attempt to reach the North Pole by boats. While out, one of his dogs had to be cut adrift ; but he afterwards rejoined the party, and the cause was then apparent. His appetite was far beyond what even an alderman would consider desirable ; he eat harness, rope, leather, canvas, and on one occasion he even bit two inches out of the iron ladle with which he was fed. On the 2nd October Lieutenant Aldrich reached a lake about ten miles south of Cape Henry. He broke the ice on its surface, to get fresh water, and some fish were observed swimming about ; by means of a pin and a piece of bacon, he induced three of them to leave their quarters for the open air, and they were found to be a kind of trout. As may be imagined, they were not deUvered to the tender mercies of the cook, but were packed in snow, and brought on board as specimens. On the 25th Commander Markham started, accon;ipanied by Lieu- tenants Parr and May. He was absent for nineteen days, during which he reached the exact latitude attained by Sir E. Parry, near which he placed a depot of provisions, On the 2nd October Lieutenant Rawson was despatched southward in order to open up communications with the Discovery ; but he was unable to succeed. He traced, however, the coast line to Cape Union. There were fewer sledging parties from the Discovery than from the Alert, and their researches were less important, A couple, conducted by the captain, explored ^ellot Island, and the mainland near the ship. The latter was found to be extremely rugged, with cliffs and hills, some of the latter having an elevation of 2000 feet. The heavy snow in the ravines, and the moist state of the atmosphere, caused the area examined to be very limited. A few miles north of Discovery Harbour a valuable coal-bed was discovered, which may possibly play an important part in future Arctic expeditions. Game was sought for whenever practicable, and though the 'bags' were not very heavy, they were of great importan ;e. The birds and beasts shot included eider-duck, ptarmigan, foxes, hares, and musk-oxen. The Discovery was much more fortunate in this respect than the Alert, owing, no doubt, to the greater exposure and severer climate of the land near the 42 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. letter. The crew of the Alert, while in winter quarters, killed six musk-oxen, twenty hares, seventy geese, twenty-six ducks, ten ptarmigan, one seal, and three foxes. The spoils of the Discovery's men were far more numerous. In the ' Lady of the Lake,' Sir Walter Scott tells us, as a proof of the keen vision enjoyed by Roland Grxme, that ' Trained to the chase, his eagle eye The ptarmigan in snow could spy.' and, if this skill be evidence of sportsmanship and sharp sight, there must have been a large amount of both among the members of the Arctic Expedition, since the number of these birds killed was very large. Besides affording relaxation and exercise, the addition to the dietary was both wholesome and agreeable. The disease to which Arctic voyagers are most liable is scurvy ; and we shall have to relate afterwards the sad havoc this sickness made among the crews and officers of the Expedition, just when health and strength were most imperatively required. One great preservative against scurvy is a supply of fresh meat and vegetables ; the next in potency is lime juice. Fresh vegetables could not, of course, be had; though there were some preserved on board. Surgeon Ninnis, of the Discovery, planted some mustard, cress, peas, and wheat, between decks, and transplanted them in May 1876, placing them under glass in the open air. This experiment succeeded very well ; but, evidently, such an attempt at fancy gardening, under difficulties, could not be relied on to supply the wants of an entire ship's crew. But the efforts of the sportsmen here stood the Expedition in good stead. The crews, especially of the Discovery, had occasionally fresh meat at their meals ; and this was a valuable change from the ordinary ship's dietary, though the flesh of the musk-oxen was sometimes unpalatable. As its name denotes, this animal is a species of ox, with a strong flavour of musk from its flesh; but this taste is sometimes hardly perceptible, and is not equally strong in all parts of the body. More of these animals were expected to be found ; it was supposed that the destruction wrought amongst them in 1871 by the crew of the Polaris either greatly diminished the breed, or frightened them away. Early in October, Lieutenants Archer and Conybeare were despatched by Captain Stephenson to examine the upper part of Lady Franklin Sound, and especially a large valley called ' The Bellows,' extending into the mainland. The latter is a most romantic looking place. Its- length is about ten miles, and it is surrounded almost at every part with hills and cliffs, nearly looo feet in height. The u CHAPTER in. 43 names given by Lieutenant Archer to some of its prominent points aftord a sufficient indication of their nature. They are, Bleak Point, Bifurcation Point, Devil's Back, Knife Edge, Black Rock Vale, &c. But now the period had arrived when sledging and all parties of the kind had to be abandoned. We have up to the present, spoken almost of nothing but snow and ice; it may seem strange to our readers, when we say that the winter had now commenced. It surely, one would imagine, was winter ever since Melville Bay was crossed on the 22nd July; we can only say that there are winters and winters. Hitherto the radiant orb of day had shed, more or less, his beneficent influence upon our voyagers ; the time was now at hand when they were to be deprived of his presence. On the i6th October 1875, the sun set; and for a period of 140 days, until the 4th of March, they were fated not to see his glowing orb. Preparations were made to pass this dreary time as well as they might ; and so successful were the explorers in this respect, that Commander Markham was able to say on his return, at the meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, that the winter was the pleasantest part of the whole Expedition. From both vessels everything that could bear exposure was removed to the adjacent shore ; large quantities of food, clothing, and other necessaries were carefully stored ; as much as 10,000 rations, or sufticient for sixty men, of the first having been landed from the Discovery. As the conditions of each vessel were much the same, the one account of the preliminary preparations will do for both. All the ' between decks ' was cleared out as much as possible, so as to afford plenty of space for living, sleeping, and ventilation. Every precaution was adopted to maintain the temperature as high as might be ; and this had to be done with as small an expenditure of fuel at possible. For this purpose the ve. "els were banked with snow ; and, singularly enough, in the case of the Alert this substance had to be brought from a distance in sledges, as a sufficient quantity could not be found in the neighbourhood of the ship. The decks, too, were covered with snow, and the external air excluded as much as practicable, consistent with ventilation. The result of all this was, that, in those parts of the hull where there was no fire or other means of producing heat, the temperature remained constantly the same as the water around, namely, 27" or 28" Fahrenheit, while the external air was sometimes as low as 70*^ below zero. We shall have further on to direct attention to the equable temperature maintained by the water. But more was required to enable the winter to pass pleasantly and profitably than simply to render the ship's company comfortable i ' I I 44 THE ARCTIC EXP^. . FION OF 1875-6. in its interior. Confinement to quarters and idleness would inevit- ably produce sickness, both of mind and body ; provision had to be made in order to procure healtliful exercise for both. The ordinary duties of the ship were carried on, and the usual discipline observed ; this, however, was not sufficient ; out-door exercise was necessary. The officers were constantly engaged in scientific investigations ; snow houses were constructed, and hourly magnetic observations were made, variations of temperature noted, and the rise and fall of the tide, the currents, &c., examined as far as possible. The weather and the atmosphere were not favourable for astronomical observa- tions ; but whatever was practicable in this way was done. Journals and logs were written ; in short, whatever might be useful for scientific- purposes hereafter received careful attention. The men were compelled to spend a certain portion of each day in the oi^en air, either for exercise, or the prosecution of some useful labour. In the Discovery, the crew constructed a skating ground, and a walk of about a mile in length. They also had to bring the water from a hole in the ice, the breaking of which was a daily employment Sometimes the accumulation of ice for the night was so great that it had to be blasted with gunpowder ; and the shock given to the surrounding ice was so great on these occasions, that it shook the ship embedded in it in every quarter. As the season advanced, it became impossible to liave recourse to these measures every day, so the men liad to bring ice from a convenient floe, which was melted to give the necessary supply. At the Discovery, too, a smithy was built of snow, which soon assumed a remarkable appearance, as the smith was accus- tomed to cool his heated irons by plunging them into the wall. Near the Alert's quarters, the men constructed a mound of about 70 feet high, and it was a favourite exercise to ascend to the top, and run down again. But all work and no play will make Jack a dull boy ; and means were adopted to provide recreation for the minds of our gallant blue- jackets as well as exercise for their bodies, There was * school ' held every evening, conducted by the chaplain and officers ; and we daresay poor Jack profited in some measure by the infliction. Their ambition, however, soared higher than this. Readings, recitations, dances, songs — even theatricals — were attempted, and in their own opinion at least, not unsuccessfully. Captain Stephenson writes complacently, regarding the latter performances : — ' Talent so versa- tile, I feel sure, cannot be found north of the Arctic Circle.* liarly in November, his company conceived the notion of having a regular and novel theatre; and Mr. Mills, the engineer, was * ■> CHAITER Iir. 45 •^ > inked to be the architect. His designs were accepted, and a floe convenient to the vessel was chosen as the site, 'llie foundation was laid upon tiie 13th November; and (incredible as it may seem to those whose misfortune it is to have dealings with architects and builders) it was completed and regularly inaugurated on the ist De- cember, the birth-day of the Princess of Wales. Need we say that the men worked double tides to have the task completed on that day, or that the building was called 'The Royal Alexandra Theatre?' It was 60 feet long, and 27 feet broad ; the walls were made of ice and snow, and the roof of sailcloth and similar materials, 'I'here was a stage, a green-room, and a drawing-room, in addition to the auditorium — everything, in fact, complete. The first play was the farce of ' My Turn Next:' and performances afterwards took place regularly. .Sometimes the officers were the actors, sometimes the men ; it is tmnecessary to say that there was a scarcity of actresses; and it was well the pieces selected were comedies, since Jack in petticoats would turn the most soul-harrowing tragedy into a screaming farce. Little bits of home life and national customs made their appearance ; and on the 5 th November, Guy Fawkes was burned with much >i[)[)lause, both at the Discovery and Alert, and almost simultaneously. Christmas comes but once a year, even in the Arctic regions ; and it brought good cheer to our hardy navigators ice-bound in Robeson Channel, and on the borders of the Polar Sea. Some carcases of sheep had been brought out by the officers from England ; and sus- pension in the rigging was enough to keep them fresh. The American beef keeps sound in its passage across the broad Atlantic by being kept in a temperature reduced artificially. Nature was a sufficient refrigerator noich of the Arctic circle. There was thus the means of giving the ship's companies fresh mutton for their Christmas dinner ; and a jorum of beer (in that quarter more precious than grog, from its greater scarcity) washed down the welcome repast. There was no need to make our hardy sailors think of home on that day, so suggestive to all our countrymen ; but the good folks there provided for us in advance. Some good friends had, with graceful kindness, thought of poor Jack when he would be endeavouring to promote the glory of his country in the midst of the darkness of a Polar winter near the 83rd parallel ; and small as the gift of plum pudding and mince pies may seem, our readers may depend upon it that when, in the afternoon of the 25th December 1875, Captain Stephen- son and his officers visited the forecastle, bearing with them a plentiful supply of these good things, the present was most gratefully received, not, indeed, from the ordinary festival feelings, but because it carried the hi'- 46 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6, minds of the sailors back to home and country, and showed them that tlie latter was not unmindful of them in the midst of their hardships and privations. Thus the winter passed away, not by any means so drearily as might be imagined. The duties of each day, and the equally regu- larly recurring amusements and exercise, would seem monotonous in the narration ; but they were not felt so in the reality. Both mind and body were alike the objects of judicious care and forethought; and the medical officers attached to each ship discharged their duties with faithful attention. Thus when the spring came, there was not, perhaps, in any of Her Majesty's vessels sounder, healthier, or more cheerful crews than those of the Alert and Discovery. One exception, however, must be made. Hans, the Esquimaux, who was taken on board at Proven Island, was not exactly like his English messmates. They were in the midst of their countrymen ; he was a stranger in tastes, in habits, and his English being very imper- fect, he could not be easily understood. Moreover, the life at winter quarters was monotonous to him ; school, theatre, and other amusements were no relaxation ; it was not remarkable, therefore, that he succumbed. For some time in January 1876, he appeared desponding, and his manners were strange ; and on the 20th he was found absent from his quarters. Suspecting the cause. Captain Stephenson instituted a search, and his tracks were struck in the snow about two miles west of the ship, and a party was sent to follow them by the aid of lanterns. They found him in a snow hole in Bellot Island, and persuaded him to return. When the spring came, and he was employed in duties consonant to his habits of life, all these symptoms went away ; and we shall see what excellent service he per- formed on a very trying occasion. Speaking of the Esquimaux, we are naturally led to inquire how did his only compatriots in the neighbourhood get along? Nine of the dogs in the Discovery had died on the voyage up, from a disease endemic to these animals, but which was probably heightened, if not brought on, by their long confinement on board the ship. They v/ere not very agreeable shipmates ; and when the vessel was laid up in winter quarters, they were served with notice to quit. There were no fears of their deserting, as the daily ration of food was too tempting ; and their hardy constitutions preserved them from the dangers of the climate. Snow houses were built for them by the sailors ; but they showed a lordly contempt for comfort. They frequently coiled themselves in sleep on the top of their edifices, but they never con- descended to enter them. That the climate is too severe even for ri f CHAPTER III. 47 ,v> - their breed was, however, proved, for of three Htters of puppies which they h during the winter, not one survived. 'i dreariness of an Arctic winter is usually enlivened by meteoric appearances in the heavens ; the Aurora Borealis and similar l)henomena are constantly flashing through the sky, and thus a relief, most important to the sailors in such dreary solitudes, is given to the monotony of their daily life. In this respect, Captain Nares' Expediuon was not fortunate ; very few of these welcome visitants were seen, and then generally to the southward. As some of the men expressed it, ' You could see the Aurora Borealis much better in London.' The Discovery was more fortunate than her consort ; the celestial pheno- mena were tolerably frequent and brilliant ; and immediately before winter set in, the reflection of the departing sun upon the surrounding hills produced a gorgeous and artistic effect. The temperature naturally varied very much, the lowest having been experienced in March. As some very exaggerated and absurd state- ments have been current on this point, we deem it right to mention that the lowest temperature registered at the Alert was 73° below zero, and near the Discovery at the same time (the beginning of March), 70" 5.' This means a degree of cold 105" below freezing point. w if; i !■ CHAPTER IV. THE SUN ONCE MORE — PREPARATIONS FOR THE SPRING CAMPAIGN — THE DELIGHTS OF SLEE'GING — JOURNEY TO THE DISCOVERY —DEATH OF HANS PETERSEN — EXPLORING IN ADVANCE — LAVING THE DEPOTS — VISIT TO POLARIS BAY THE GRAVE OF CAPTAIN HALL. The advent of spring is heralled by welcome and well-known signs in every inhabited portion of the world ; and in the dreary regions of the nortl), its approach was both more sought for, and more marked than in our favoured regions. The ist March brought back the sun, though its di-jc could not yet be seen for a few days, in con- sequence of llie foggy state of the atmosphere. This was the signal for preparation in both the vessels. The outer covering of snow, v.hich had for months rendered the ships little better in appearance than mounds or hummocks, was removed, and the light of day admitted below. Its searching examination revealed to the crews more of the condition of things in which they had been living than perhaps was welcome. But it was well the inmates saw the state of their winter quarters only when they were about to relinquish them, and so we gladly quit the subject, as did the crews. The plan of the Expedition, as arranged by Captain Nares, was as follows : — There were to be three principal sledging parties, two from the Alert, and one from the Discovery, One of the former, under the command of Commander Markham, was to proceed for a certain distance in company with the second, and on arriving in the neigh- bourhood of Cape Joseph Henry, was to start northwards into the Polar Sea, and endeavour to attain as high a latitude as possible, and then return. No hope of even approaching the North Pole was at this time indulged in by those who had charge of the Expedition. The second party, under the command of Lieutenant Aldrich, was to proceed northward along with Markham's command ; but when they reached the point of departure of this p.'.rty, the second was to strike out to the west, along the shores of Grant Land, as the northern part of Grinnell Land is called, survey and explore its shores as far as possible, communicate with any of the Discovery's men they " • = £• *l^ f ^B '' n > 2 w o CHAPTER IV. 49 might meet, and then return to the ship. The third party from the Discovery was to cross Robeson Channel, and from its north-eastern coast advance along the northern shores of Greenland as far as their provisions would allow them. Both of the last named parties were to keep a sharp look out for anything iu the shape of a Polar continent, though it is evident, from the journals of both commanders and men, the existence of such a terra incognita was not an article of faith with the explorers. But before these parties could start, some preliminary operations had to be undertaken. Minor parties were sent, for the purpose of exploring and placing depots for the use of the main parties. Captain Stephenson had been instructed to send a party across Robeson Channel, as early as possible in the spring of 1876, to examine the condition of the depots left in Polaris Bay by the Expedition commanded by Captain Hall, and to see if they could be utilized by the present Expedition. As, however, there had been no communication between the vessels since the 28th September 1875, it ^^^s deemed advisable to let each know the condition of the other before anything further was begun. The Discovery was in entire ignorance of the whereabouts of the Alert. As the latter knew where its consort was, it devolved upon Captain Nares to take the necessary steps. Accordingly, on the 12th March, Lieutenants Egerton and Rawson, accompanied by the Danish inter- preter, Niel Christian Petersen, started on their journey south, through Robeson Channel, with a dog sledge. Their journey was equally brief and unfortunate. On the second day Petersen complained of illness, and on that night, after camping, got much worse. He h id cramps in the stomach, was constantly shivering, and got frequently frost-bitten. His two companions did what they could for him, f^we him medicine, and wrapped him up as comfortably as they were able ; but he could not eat, or at least retain what he swallowed. He ha. ! 56 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. The party sent on the 2otli March from the Alert southward to the Discovery reached their destination on the 25th, and gave to its crew the first news of their comrades. Lieutenant Egerton's party had encountered the usual hardships and difficulties on their way ; but, as the weather was somewhat milder, they experienced nothing like the disagreeable results of their previous journey. They sighted the Dis- covery when half r mile distant, and could see a couple of figures alongside the ship looking in their direction. They cheered, and pre- sently the whole ship's company came running like rabbits from a burrow ; and soon there were hearty hand-shakings, and questions by the hundred. When the new-comers could put in a word, they were gratified to hear that their comrades had passed a pleasant winter, and, with one exception, were in good health. This unfortunately was a case of scurvy. After resting themselves for five days, they started, accompanied by Lieutenant Rawson, on their return journey to the Alert, bearing letters from Captain Stephenson to the Commander of the Expedition. Now all was bustle in the two ships ; provisions were prepared ; the sledges examined, and made ready for the journey; the tents, &c., seen to be in a serviceable condition ; and the men were made to take good long walks every day, for the purpose of exercise, and getting their limbs into condition for the trying work before them. Short journeys were next taken to place depots, and examine the coasts as far as prac- ticable. We shall take one of these minor journeys, out of its date, as some account of it is necessary in order to understand clearly the concluding events of the eastern sledging expedition. We have mentioned in our introduction that the Polaris Expedition commanded by Captain C. F. Hall, U.S. Navy, wintered on the eastern coast of Robeson Channel, where this gallant officer died and was buried. The account of his voyage states that a depot had been established in Polaris Bay, as his winter quarters were called ; and it became important to ascertain in what state were the provisions and necessaries there, and to see if they could be made available for the Greenland party on their return. Accordingly, on the 28th March, Lieutenant Archer and Dr. Coppinger were despatched by Captain Stephenson with a sledge party across Robeson Channel ; and on the 30th they reached their destination. They examined the depot, and found it to be nearly in the same condition in Avhich it had been left more than three years before by the crew of the Polaris. An obser- vatory, erected in 1871, had its roof partly blown in, but othenvise was in fair condition. The bread in the barrel was good, that in bags some- what mouldy. They made a hearty meal that evening off the CHAPTER IV. 57 t^ preserved meats, a fact which is sufficient to show that length of time had not impaired their ciiiaHty ; and the ham and pemmican were in excellent condition. Some miscellaneous articles were scattered about, including a coil of insulated wire, an ice-saw, an iron boat-davit, two iron dredge frames, several feet of flat iron, a box of glass, and a small tent. There was, of course, the invariable record, and afterwards other records of this Expedition were found in other places along the coast. It may seem strange to our readers to be informed that articles such as these should remain untouched for so long a period; and the wonder will not cease when they reflect that they would in all likelihood be undisturbed for years to come were it not for the visit of Messrs. Archer and Coppinger. It must be remembered, however, that in all proba- bility no human being, not even an Esquimau, had set foot upon the shores of this dreary bay since the crew of the Polaris had departed, leaving the remains of their commander to keep watch, as it were, over the relics of his Expedition. Besides, in establishing depots, means are taken to secure them from the attacks of wild animals ; and even the Esquimaux might pass and repass without being aware that what would be a treasure to them was within their reach. Yet now, strangers from a land hundreds of miles distant, who had never set foot upon these inhospitable regions, marched to the exact spot with unerring accuracy, guided by a few words written by men whom they never saw. Further still, it must be remembered that, had any misfortune overtaken the Expedition commanded by Captain Nares, at least a part of his men would, in all probability, find the means of safety in this depot estab- lished so many years before ; and the depots placed by the late Expedition will very likely be of service to future explorers. In order to understand how records are preserved, and the means by which they are recovered, it is necessary to state that on conspicuous points cairns or heaps of stones are erected, and the records placed in or near them. When an Arctic traveller sees such a cairn, he examines it; and the general instructions are, to make an exact copy of the documents found therein, to take the original, leaving the copy in its stead, with particulars of the change, the date on which the cairn was visited, the name of the disturber, the party to which he belongs, and its destination and objects. The following extract from a letter of Dr. Coppinger will explain this more clearly than any words of ours : — ' We start again at 3 a.m., and proceed along the floe to the west- ward, purposing to visit Captain Hall's cairn, which is said to be about three miles from Cape Brevoort. In half an hour we see the cairn 1 ■ 58 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 87 5-6. Standing conspicuously upon a projecting tongue of bare land, and at 4 A.M. reach the ice-foot just abreast of it. The cairn — a conical pile of stones — has at its south edge a squarish block of stone, on which is deeply cut "10 Feet E." Besides this is an upright slab, on which is cut, "10 F. E. ;" and on the ground, at the north side of the cairn, is a board (part of a box), on which is cut with a knife, "10 Feet E." Actfng upon this ambiguous information, I at first tried for the record at the stated distance and direction (both true and magnetic), measured from the centre of the cairn ; and the ground being frozen so hard that each stroke of the pickaxe detached only a splinter of clay, a good deal of time and energy was thus expended to no purpose. However, I ultimately found the record buriedfour inches deep, and ten feet east of the stone at the south edge of the cairn. As the copper cylinder containing the record had its lid neatly cemented on with some waxy sub- stance, the contained document was in an excellent state of preservation. I now removed the original document and cylinder (the cylinder having been accidentally perforated with a pickaxe blow), made an accurate copy of the record, appending thereto a brief account of the circum- stances under which I took the original, with a notice of my past and projected movements; and, enclosing these in a fresh cylinder, buried it in the site of the old one.' The scene of the events thus described was some miles north of Polaris Bay, and their date the loth May ; we are therefore wandering in every way from our narrative ; we now return to the investigations of Lieutenant Archer and his companions. One object met their view of which the interest, though more painful, was far deeper than that which animated them at the sight of the depot and observatory ; we allude to the grave of Captain Hall. A piece of a cabin door caught their eye, and on approaching they found upon it the following inscription : — En mtmnrp OF CHARLES FRANCIS HALL, Late Commander, U. S. steamer Polaris, North Pole Expedition. Died November Si/i, 1871. Aged ^o years. ' I am the resurrection, and the life : he that be- lieveth in Me, though he werq dead, yet bh.iJl he live. CHAPTER IV. 59 On the opposite side was engraved — tHa tljt tttcmorg OF C. F, HALL, Late Commander of U.S. North Polar Expedition. Died Novr.%tlh 1871. Aged y:i years. The execution was rude, and the words simple ; yet they were well calculated to excite deep emotion, even in the breasts of the hardy and daring mariners who now stood round. Bei^eath them lay the remains of a predecessor in the work that now occupied them, a strong reminder of what their own fate might bt. They, too, might possibly lay their bones amidst these wild and desolate \v\''stes, far from home and kindred, perhaps with some feeble effort on the part of their com- panions to perpetuate their memory in the simple manner of which they had an example before them .; possibly, a prey to famine and disease, they might drop unnoted by any save the beasts that inhabit these dreary solitudes. The letters were sunk in the wood, and everything appeared in a good state of preservation j a large crowbar was stuck in the grave about a foot from the headstone, and a small flat piece of upright stone was at the foot. The account given by the survivors of Captain Hall's Expedi- tion stated that a willow had been planted near the grave j when T.iViitenant Archer's party visited, it was alive and doing well. _ On the 13th of May following. Captain Stephenson and a large party again crossed to the place wliere Captain Hall was buried, and hoisted the American flag over the grave. At its foot they erected a br^ss tablet brought from England for the purpose, with the following inscription : — ^amtJtotijcmnnorsof CAPTAIN C. F. HALL, Of the U.S. ship * Polaris,' Who sacrificed his life in the advancement of Science on Nov. 8, 187 1. This tablet has been erected by the British Polar Expedition of 1875, who, following in his footsteps, have profited by his experience. Fortunate it is for mankind and for the lover of our race, to find such acts standing out in the midst of the sad record of the wickedness and miseries caused by the bad passions of men. Surely the death of Hall mmmi 60 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. Ill ] 'i I was far nobler than if it had occurred in the shock of battle cheering on his followers to the destruction of his fellow-creatures ; and surely the rude and simple memorial of his crew, and the more permanent record afterwards erected by his successors and rivals in the path of discovery, are far more sublime than the towering monuments raised to perpe- tuate the names of those who have waded through slaughter to a throne and shut the gates of mercy on mankind. We have stated that three sledging parties were organized, one, under Commander Markham, to strike out boldly into the Palaeocrystic Sea (or Sea of Ancient Ice), as Captain Nares dubbed the regions north of Grinnell Land and Greenland, and to endeavour to attain as high a latitude as possible ; the second, under the command of Lieutenant Aldrich, to travel along and explore the north shore of Grant's Land (as the northern portion of Grinnell Land is called) ; and the third, under Beaumont, to explore the northern shores of Greenland. Depots had previously been established near Cape Joseph Henry, for the use of the two first expeditions, and the northern shore of Greenland, near Cape Staunton, for the use of Beaumont's party. The latter were instructed, after visiting Cape Staunton on their return, to travel south to Polaris Bay. It was of the greatest importance to each party to travel as light as possible ; by establishing depots in proper positions, the explorers could start off, travel as far from the base thus taken as their stock of provisions would allow, and then find a fresh supply just when it was required. . Besides this, an extra party was to start with each expedition, and to accompany them for a portion of the journey, aiding them as much as possible. Then, about the time each was expected to return, a supporting party was to start to meet it, to give whatever help might be necessary. The instructions were precise and comprehensive ; each leader knew what he had to do, how far he might proceed, and where he would be certain to find help when returning exhausted. We shall see that scarcely a hitch occurred in the arrangements, so admirably were they carried out. All the expeditions started from the Alert, the two first on the 3rd April 1876, the third on the 20th of the same month. Dr. Moss and Engineer Wootton were to accompany Markham's party, to travel \vith it until their first plunge into the Palaeocrystic Sea, where they were to take leave, first ascertaining where the leader of the party would wish a depot to be placed for use on his return. Lieutenant Giffard was to accompany Aldrich's party for a certain distance, and when parting, was, like Dr. Moss, to take the orders of its commander as to where a supporting depot was to be placed. Lieutenant Rawson and Dr. Coppinger were to play a similar part with regard to Beaumont's party. L^ CHAPTER V. 1\ L^ THE START — EN ROUTE FOR THE NORTH POLE — BY CAPE JOSEPH HENRY — FLOES AND HUMMOCKS — FIRST SYMPTOMS OF THE SCURVY — SUFFER- INGS OF THE PARTY — ROAD-MAKING UNDER DIFFICULTIES — THE FARTHEST POINT NORTH EVER REACHED — A PIC-NIC PARTY AT 83° 20' 26" — THE RETURN — PROGRESS OF THE DISEASE — DEATH OF GEORGE PORTER — RELIEF AT LAST — HOME ONCE MORE. The 3rd April 1876, was an exciting day at the Alert's winter ■quarters. Early in the morning seven sledges and two boats, with 5 1 officers and men, forming the northern and western sledging parties, with their supports, arranged themselves in line of battle, all in high spirits and good health, weary of their winter's inactivity, and anxious for the novel work before them. They started shortly after 1 1 o'clock, and were accompanied for a quarter of a mile by Captain Nares and the few shipmates they were leaving behind. Then the latter took leave of their' companions, final cheers were exchanged, and the explorers soon disappeared in the north, whither it becomes our duty to accompany them. The two parties were to travel together for a certain distance ; but we have to tell separately the stories of their sufferings and troubles, and so must, at first, accompany only one in spirit. As the main object of the entire Expedition was either to reach the North Pole, or to approach it as nearly as possible, our narrative will for the present con- cern itself with the party led by Commander Markham. His equipment consisted of five sledges, the Marco Polo, the Victoria, the Alexandra, the Bulldog, and the Bloodhound, with 37 officers and men. But as only three of these made the whole journey, we shall not notice the others in detail. The Marco Polo was commanded by Mr. Markham, in charge of the party, with the following crew : Thomas Jolitfe, Daniel Harley, Thomas Simpson, Wm. Ferbrache, Thos. Rawling, John Radmore, John Shirley, and Alfred Pearce. The weight of the sledge and its burden on leaving the ship was 2367 lbs., or a pull of 263 lbs. per man; but the greater part of thepemmican and bacon required for the journey had been previously advanced to the depot at Cape Joseph Henry. When these were taken up there, the weight of the sledge was 2728 lbs. The Victoria sledge, commanded by Lieutenant Parr, had the following crew : John Hawkins, Reuben Francorabe, George Winstone, Edwin Lawrence, John Pearson, William jMaskell, and George Porter. 1 I s 63 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 87 5-6. Its weight on leaving the ship was 1644 lbs., and on leaving Cape Joseph Henry 1626 lbs. Besides this, there was a supporting sledge taken from the latter, which, with its burden, weighed 1725 lbs., and as only 15 men went to the bitter end, this was a pull of 405 lbs. each. When we remember that the route of this party v/as the most difficult of all, and that the weights to be dragged were the heaviest, we must confess the advance was made under rather ominous circumstances. The provisions were calculated for an absence of 70 days, and were packed in bags, each containing the allowance for a week, with the exception of the spirits, which were packed separately. The rest of the equipments, as we have stated in a previous chapter, consisted of clothing, cooking and eating apparatus, guns, instruments, pickaxes, shovels, &c. The weight of each sledge was about 130 lbs., of each tent and poles about 70 lbs., and the knapsacks averaged 12 lbs. per man. The provisions were constantly diminishing in bulk from cLepot to depot ; but we shall see that, owing to most unfortunate circ.imstances, this did not lessen the burden to be dragged, which, on the contrary, was sadly increased. The night of the 3rd was a cheerless foretaste of what was before them, as they were cold, wretched, and sleepless. An early start was made on the 4th, and they crossed Mushroom Point, instead of rounding it, thus saving some exertion. We should here remark, that, in addition to their other impedimenta, Commander Markham's party had to take two ice boats with them, packed on the sledge. Captain Nares, not knowing fully the character of the sea this party had to travel over, and fearing lest the ice should break up when they were at a distance from the land, took the necessary precautions against such a casualty by ordering them to bring these boats, a great addition to their load. Markham writes of their sleeping accommodation : * To use Admiral Richards' simile, our sleeping bags resemble sheet iron, whilst the currie paste, as our cook observed, was exactly like a piece of brass, and was equally hard.' Still they slept a little better, which enabled them to face the unremitting toil of the next day; as the weight to be dragged was so great, and the road ( ?) so rugged, the loads had to be divided, all the men of tvra sledges dragging one on for a distance, and then returning for the other. Sometimes, it was even worse, and a part only of the load of one could be dragged by the whole, thus necessitating three or four journeys before all was carried to the resting place for the night. The only symptom of animal life observable was the track of a wolf, which seemed to be hanging round the party, but was not visible. On the 6th the temperature was 35** below zero, which may give ap idea of the cold of the morning. They CHAPTER V. 63 X'. had to double-bank the sledges as on the preceding day, but were able to reach Depot Point, where they camped for the night From the depot established here beforehand, 244 lbs. of pemmican were taken. The travelling this day was accounted good, the whole distance marched being ten miles, only five of which were actual progress to the north, on account of the double journeys which had to be made. On the 7th the supporting sledge. Bloodhound, returned to the ship, cheers being interchanged. The party got a foretaste on this day of what their future journeys were likely to be. They had to cross heavy floes, fringed with hummocks, over the latter of which the sledge had to be dragged, where they were low, and through which a road had to be cut, when high. On the 8th, though the weather was somewhat better, the travelling was worse ; the number of miles actually travelled was ten, of which only three were made good; and 10 j4 hours were consumed in accomplishing this distance. On the 9th, the rate of progress was much the same, though they made good an additional mile. The com- mander and his second. Lieutenant Parr, had snow blindness ; and Dr. Moss kept in advance to find out the best route for the sledges through the hummocks. On the loth, the depot near View Hill was visited by the commander. Dr. Moss, and Lieutenants Aldrich and Giffard. The stores there were packed on the empty sledge brought for the purpose, and the party ascended View Hill, whence they had a good look-out. The prospect was not cheering ; the sea, as far as the view extended, was composed of floes and hummocko, the former small, and the latter large, exactly the opposite of what could be wished. Markham judged, from the appearance of things, that two miles a day would be his utmost rate of actual progress, to secure which ten miles would have to be traversed ; modest as was this estimate, it exceeded the perform- ance. The animali showed themselves wiser, so to speak, than the explorers. There were numerous traces of hare and ptarmigan to be seen upon the land, but as we have stated before, none upon the sea, which their instinct taught them to avoid. They had evidence of the increasing power of the sun, in the melting of the snow, and the trickling of the water down the southern side of View Hill. On the nth, the party may be said to have bade farewell to the land, having taken their last stock of provisions from the depot. They had now provisions for 63 days, so that they could travel for 30 days to the northward, as they were to find a depot at their service near View Hill on their return. The course on that day was through hummocks, ranging in height from a few inches to t\v enty feel, and a party under Lieutenant Parr was continually in advance with pickaxes and shovels, making roads, through which their companions dragged 64 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. > e the sledges by repeated journeys. On this day, Lieutenant Aldrich and his command, who had been in company since leaving the Alert, determined to strike ofif across the south of Cape Joseph Henry, and to pursue his investigation of the northern shore of Grant's Land, accord- ing to his instructions. Accordingly, at i o'clock, both parties dis- played their colours, and parted company with much cheering. This day, too, was fixed for the return of Dr. Moss and the supporting party, who received Commander Markham's final instructions regarding depots, &c. Dr. Moss made an inspection of each of the crews of the northern expedition, whose names we have given, and found them all apparently well fitted for their work. Nothing worse than frost-bites had hitherto occurred, and, though their faces were, as Markham says, like raw beefsteaks, a little lard and glycerine enabled them to despise these small evils, as Dr. Moss called them. At lunch-time, accordingly, the supporting party having given them all the necessaries they could spare, bade farewell to their comrades, and returned to the ship. The northern expedition was thus at last, if not afloat, at least left to their own resources upon the Palceocrystic Sea, with no prospect of meeting any of their kind for the next two months. When the sup- porting and the other parties were with them, they had not quite lost their hold of the land, so to speak ; now, though still alongside Cape Joseph Henry promontory, they were fairly embarked upon their expedition. On the 12th, the sun was shining brilliantly, and the bed gear was triced up to the masts of the ice-boat to dry. ' The surface snow on the floes sparkled and ^^littered with the most beautiful irridescent colours, the ground on which we walked appearing as if sprinkled with bright and lustrous gems, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds being the most prominent.' In spite of all this beauty, * standing pulls ' were the order of the day — a phrase we must explain, as we hope few of our readers will ever know by experience what they are. When ice or snow is level, hard, and smooth, the sledges are hauled along without stop, and the work is pleasant. When there are hummocks or snow drifts, all the men have to stand, grasping the ropes firmly, then the words of command, * one, two, three, haul,' are given, at the last of which all pull, thus advancing the sledge a couple of yards, then another standing pull, and so on. This was what our party had to experience for many a weary day to come, and the history of one day is, with little variation, the history of all. On the t2th, though nine miles were travelled, the distance made good was only a mile and a half. The daily routine was similar to that described at page 52 ; first break- fast, then a march of five or six hours, a halt for lunch, the length of which depended on the time spent in persuading the water for tea to 4 CHAPTER V. 6S boil, and another march of four or five hours brought them to a stop for the night, if we can name thus a time when the sun was shining. The 13th of April was a sort of red-letter day, as the party came on a floe nearly a mile in breadth, across which the travelling was excellent. But at 2 o'clock they were brought up by enormous masses of ice piled, piece on piece, to the height of twenty feet. There was nothing for it but pickaxe and shovel ; and Lieutenant Parr, who acted the part of engineer-in-chief and labourer combined, set his men a worthy example. Thus the distance actually achieved due north was only iwo miles. If the 13th was a red letter-day, its successor was of a very opposite character. It began badly. Markham writes : Mn the night, on one occasion, in consequence of having had a high temperature in our tent, when much moisture was absorbed by the sleeping bags, &c., oui robes and bags were frozen so siifFand so hard that caution had to be exercised to avoid their coming nito contact with the face, otherwise, so rigid were they, that an abrasion of the skin would be the result. Our plan is to leave the coverlets for some considerable time lying on oui bodies so that they may partially thaw before being spread. Our blanket wrappers also were so frozen in the morning, although we had been lying upon them all night, in our bags, that it was with great difficulty we could bend them over our feet.' Fancy the discomfort of arising from such a couch, to face the unremitting and harassing labours of the day. This was not the worst, however; one of the party, John Shirley, of the Marco Polo sledge, complained of pain in his ankle and knee, both of which exhibited slight symptoms of puiflness. This did not look alarming, yet it was the small cloud, no bigger than the hand (to use an overworked simile) which was destined to attain disastrous dimensions. These were the first faint symptoms of scun-y, though neither officers nor men were aware of it. Even had they been, not much could be done ; for sending the man back would not prevent the attacks subsequently experienced by the others. All that could be done was, to rub the ankles and knees with turpentine liniment — a natural thought perhaps — but the remedy was of course perfectly useless. On the 15th and i6th there was a nor-westerly gale, a considerable drift, and the temperature —35". This rendered travelling quite out of the question, and they had to remain in the tents, as one of the parties describes it, ' in a state of abject misery.' The i6th was Easter Sunday, and ' we all unanimously came to the conclusion that it was the most wretched and miserable Easter Sunday that any one of us had ever passed. Forty-eight hours in a bag, in a gale of wind off Cape Joseph Henry, with a temperature 67** below freezing point, is not a delightful r' ■I 66 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 87 5-6. 1 i ! ) { way of passing the time— sleep almost out of the questior,' In spite of their condition, on the 15th the usual Saturday-night nautical toast of ' sweethearts and wives ' was given ; and it being the anniversary of the ship's commissioning, and of Captain Nares' birth-day, ' of course they could not be neglected; we gave the latter three cheers, which was taken up by th i Victoria, and then we commenced to cheer each other, by way of keeping up our spirits.' The wind subsiding towards the evenihg of Easter Sunday, they determined to proceed, but Shirley being unable to walk, had to be placed upon the sledge, thus increasing the weight, and diminishing the dragging strength. George Porter, of the Victoria, complained of stift Icnees ; in other words, he likewise was attacked by the scurvy. On the 17th a good view from the seaward (the term is not altogether appropriate, though the sea was there at a depth of many feet below our travellers) was obtained of Cape Joseph Henry. ' It presents a bold and rugged appearance, rising nearly perpendicularly from its base to its bluff, a height of about 800 feet, whence it recedes, gradually ascend- ing until it culminates in a peak about 300 or 400 feot higher. It appears to be of limestone formation in regular stratifications, dipping to the southward at an angle between six and ten degrees from the horizontal. The cape itself terminates in a knife-like edge from summit to foot, very much resembling the ram-bow of an iron-clad. Conical Hill when seen on the same bearing, presents more the shape of a hog's back than a cone, and has also a bold rugged aspect. It is about the same height as the peak above Joseph Henry, and is of the same forma- tion ; but unlike its neighbour, the striations dip to the southward at an angle between 6^ and 10** from the vertical, and it has altogether a rather distorted appearance. There is a great deal of similarity in the surrounding hills, all being more or less coniform, and of nearly equal altitude, from one to two thousand feet.' The invalids were no better : nothing but rest, fresh food, and lime- juice could be of service to them, and none of these were to be got, even had the nature of the disease been known. Porter had now to be carried on a sledge as well as Shirley. On the i8th, having got further from the land, a change was experienced in the nature of the ice. Hitherto the floes were comparatively flat, surrounded by hum mocks; now they appeared to have got on the veritable Palaeocrystic floes massed together, squeezed one against the other, but with no hummocks between. They were of gigantic thickness, of uneven surface, and covered with deep snow. This made the travelling so tedious that, though 10 miles were marched, only i mile was made good, in a journey of 10 hours. CHAPTER V. 67 On the 19th they found some of the floes as much as 9 or 10 feet above the level of the next ; and as the sledges had to be raised or lowered from one to the other, it can be readily imagined that the travelling was both laborious and slow. In three and a-half hours, with a succession of standing pulls, only 300 yards of an advance were made ; and the commander determined to abandon the large ice-boat. He calculated that, if the ice did break up, the small boat would be sufficient to carry the men and sledges from one floe to the next ; and 800 lbs. of dead weight would be got rid of. Indeed it may be taken for granted that, although Captain Nares did wisely in ordering this addition to the burden, any future expedition over this sea will dispense with it. Another of the party, Alfred Pearce, was invalided tVis day ; he complained of stiff and swollen ankles, the inevitable sign. On the 20th a dense fog confined them to their quarters until 2 o'clock ; anr* - t>iey got a view, it was the reverse of cheering. Nothing but h ' ' s was to be seen, and no way of advance except by shovels and picka. . as usual. Next day the invalids appeared somewhat better -, all were able to walk a little. There were several frost-bites, but no serious injury done. On the 22nd there was an improvement in the travelling ; the floes were more level, larger, and came into contact in a more amicable manner than the one previously passed. The following extract from Markham's journal gives an idea of the appearance of the men : — * It is painful to witness the efforts of the poor fellows, whilst they are dragging, endeavouring to shield their faces from the cold, cutting wind. They are an uncanny lot to look at — very dirty faces, and especially noses, all scarified and scabby, lips sore, and tips of the fingers senseless from frost-bite ; yet they are all cheerful and happy enough.' The 23rd was a bad day; hummocks, which as usual had to be cut through, and hills of snow accumulated on the floes, rendered the travelling so slow, that only 1^ mile of real progress were made. The following shows the auspices uuder which the 24th was ushered in : — * On walking to the northern extremity of the floe on which we were encamped, a dismal prospect met our view. Enormous hummocks from 20 to 30 feet high, all squeezed up together, with apparently no floes beyond. . . . The hummocks appeared interminable. From the summit of the loftiest no floe of any size could be seen — nothing but an uneven range of shapeless masses of ice.' In view of this state of affairs, Com- { 68 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. mander Markham ordered the road-makers forward, keeping the rest in their tents, where they shivered until a passage was made through which the sledges could be dragged. A keen wind, disagreeable in other respects, helped their progress by means of a sail which they hoisted. The 83** parallel was crossed on this day. On the 25th, another was added to the list of invalids, John Haw- kins. Though his ankles were weak and swollen, he held on to the drag-ropes. A mock sun, faint in colours, was seen this day. The travelling was tolerable, 2^ miles having been made good in 10^ hours. ' Our time for treating the sick, administering potions, ban- daging legs, &c., is, as a rule, after supper, when the exertions of the day are over, and the men are comfortably settled in their bags. It is in^possible to conceive anything more disagreeable than sick men, either in the tent or on the march, especially when they are helpless, persisting in groaning all night, and in being querulous and fretful. But sailors are proverbially good and kind nurses, and ours are no exception to the rule.' The history of the remaining days of April is the same for all ; hummocks, uneven floes, and the pickaxes and shovels in constant requisition. On the 26th, our tents were pitched on the northern extreme of one of these ponderous floes, with an apparently impassable sea of hummocks, extending north, east, and west, as far as the eye could range. It looked like the end of all things.' Some of these hummocks were 30 feet high. On the 28th, when 17 miles from the nearest land, the tracks of a hare were seen, and from their appearance the little creature was evi- dently exhausted. It was travelling south ; this was the last trace of animal life our explorers met in their northward journey. The I St of May presented something of the appearance of summer, being a fine bright day. A large floe of i ^ mile in width was a god- send in the way of travelling, so that the entire distance marched was 9 miles, 2^ being made good. But the invalids, Porter especially, exhibited unmistakeable symptoms of scurvy; legs discoloured, gums and teeth loose and sore. On the and, Reuben Francombe was attacked, raising the list of the sick to five. On the 3rd, 4th, and 5th the invalids were steadily growing worse, while the travelling remained the same. On the 4th, a line of dis- coloured hummocks was met, apparently forming the edge of a floe ; and on examination, the discolouration seemed to proceed from mud. Commander Markham thinks the floe must have been in contact with the land at some time or other — which, if true, shows that these immense masses of ice, apparently inextricably jammed against each CHAPTER V. 69 , -- ■ •» Other, must occasionally experience considerable disruptions and con- vulsions. On the 5th, * the weather being as thick as pea soup, we were compelled to remain in our bags after lunch. A vireary scene surrounded us. A cold, desolate, and inhospitable looKing scene. Everything of the same uniform colour, nothing to relieve the eye, nothing but one sombrous, uneven, and irregular sea of snow and ice.' A gleam of comio.^, however, was experienced, to which we advert^ in order to show by what small trifles men are influenced. The tem- perature having risen to zero, the bacon was rendered eatable. Hitherto it had been so hard that the teeth could not penetrate it, and the men had to steep it in their tea. The effect upon them may be easily imagined. The proceedings of the 6th, 7th, and 8th have nothing to relieve the dreary, monotonous record of sickness, piercing through hummocks, and standing pulls. On the 6th, Markham writes: — 'We appear to have arrived at a perfect barrier of hummocks and portions of floes, all broken and squeezed up, and covered with deep snow. It is possible we may be able to penetrate these obstacles, eventually reaching larger and more level floes, on which we may be able to make more rapid progress. We ascended one large hummock, from the summit of which the prospect was anything but encouraging — nothing but one vast illimitable sea of hummocks. The height of this hummock was ascertained by means of a lead line, and was found to be from the sum- mit to the surface of the snow at its base, 43 feet 3 inches. It did not appear to be a floe-berg, but a mass of hummocks squeezed up, and cemented together by several layers of snow, making it resemble one large solid piece.' Up to this, a couple of the sick men, though not able to pull, could limp along after the sledges ; but on the 7th all the sick had to be placed upon them. Thus, only 10 men and officers remained to pull the sledges, which, in addition to their regular load, had five invalids. The changes and rest prevented more than 2>^ hours' marching, during which only % mile was made good. On the 8th, four of the dragging party suffered from snow blindness ; and to give an idea of the nature of the travelling, and the difficulties experienced, we quote the follow- ing: — 'The hummocks around us are of diff'erent heights and bulk, varying from small fragments of ice to huge piles, over 40 feet high. Some of these larger ones are simply masses of squeezed up ice, whilst others of great magnitude, but perhaps not quite so high, are the regular floe-bergs. Between these hummocks, and consequently along the only road that is practicable for our sledges, the snow has accurnu- ■t I 1 ^ t 1 i: 1 70 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6, lated in drifts to a great depth, and these forming into ridges render the travelling all the more difficult. Some of the tops of these ridges are frozen hard, and it is no uncommon occurrence to step from deep snow in which we are floundering up to our waists, on to a hard frozen piece, and vice versa. Occasionally these ridges are only partially frozen, sufficiently only to deceive one, which makes it exceedingly dis- agreeable and laborious to get through.' On the 9th, Commander Markham was forced to come to the con- clusion that the disease under which the sick men were labouring was scurvy. Indeed there was now no room for doubt ; discoloured and swollen limbs, w'th livid and purple patches, sore gums, loose teeth, fetid breath, with great depression of spirits and loss of appetite, told a tale not to be mistaken. He did not wish to make the men acquainted with the fact, and he had scarcely anything in the shape of remedies. The grog of the invalids was stopped, and a small quantity of lime- juice given to each in its stead. There were only two bottles of this anti-scorbutic in the sledges ; but we intend to return to this again. Next day four more were added to the sick list — Thomas Raw- lings, William Simpson, William Ferbrache, and George Winstone ; they had the usual symptoms — stiff joints, swollen legs, and discolour- ations. On the loth May, Commander Markham came to the conclusion that the limits of his journey were reached. The averr' ■ rate of pro- gress for some days past had not been a mile per day ; the state of the ice showed no signs of improvement ; five of his men were suffering so much from scurvy, that not only were they unable to aid, but were a drag upon their companions ; four more showed decided symptoms of the same complaint ; and only 31 days' provisions remained. There was no other course open to him except to return ; but he determined to remain where he was for a couple of days, to make whatever obser- vations he could. Accordingly, on the nth, the necessary preparations were made. Breakfast was got early, and immediately after the men were set to work to cut a hole through some young ice, which was fortunately near. This ice, though the growth of one season only, was 64 inches thick, and it took three hours to make an opening. Soundings were taken, and the depth was found to be 72 fathoms, with a bottom of clay. The usual appliances were affixed to the sounding lead, and specimens of the bottom were brought up, which were placed in a bottle, and carried to the ship. The temperature was ascertained to be a little more than 28°, and was tolerably equal all through, increasing very slightly towards the bottom. This shows very strikingly the equable tempera- CHAPTER V. 71 ture of sea water, it being the same as that surrounding the Alert at her winter quarters. Though the scenery above was appallingly desolate, with not a trace of animal or vegetable existence, below the very reverse was the case. A. dredge was improvised, and baited with the scrapings of the pannikins, then lowered through the opening in the ice. It was drawn up after some hours, and found to be literally swarming with crustaceans, apparently of two kinds. All through the voyage, whenever the experi- ment was made, the same result was obtained ; the waters were found to be swarming with animal life, an impressive proof of the power, wisdom, and goodness of the Creator. Experiments were made regarding tidal movements, and it was found that they existed; the set appeared to be N.VV. and S.E., but no accurate results were obtained. A series of magnetic observations and others to ascertain the latitude and longitude, brought the nth to a close. The 1 2th May 1876 was the last day spent by Commander Markham's party in this station, the highest latitude yet attained by man. It was not a spot adapted for lengthened residence, nor would a pic-nic party approve of its surroundings ; yet it has a grim interest of its own, not merely to the survivors of the Expedition, but to every one in the civilized world interested in the progress of geography. That bleak floe, surrounded by an interminable sea of hummocks, is an object of interest to the imagination of all anxious for the promotion of discovery and the advancement of science. We do not think we can bring this last scene more vividly before the minds of our readers than by transcribing in full the graphic details of the proceedings given by Commander Markham, in his journal of that day : — ' Breakfasted at 8.30, immediately after which, leaving the cooks behind at the camp to attend upon the invalids, the remainder of the party carrying the sextant and artificial horizon, and also the sledge, banners and colours, started northwards. We had some very severe walking, struggling through snow up to our waists, over or through which the labour of dragging a sledge would be interminable, and, occasionally, almost disappearing through cracks and fissures, until twenty minutes to noon, when a halt was called. The artificial horizon was then set up, and the tlags and banners displayed. These fluttered out bravely before a fresh S.VV. wind, which latter was, however, decidedly cold and unpleasant. At noon we obtained a good altitude, and proclaimed our latitude to be 83° 20' 26" N., exactly 399^ miles from the North Pole. On this being duly announced, three cheers 72 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 87 5-6. were given, with one more for Captain Nares ; then the whole party, in the exuberance of their spirits at having reached their turning point, sang the " Union Jack of Old England," the " Grand Palaiocrystic Sledging Chorus," winding up, like loyal subjects, with " God save the Queen." These little demonstrations had the effect of cheering the men who, nevertheless, enjoy good spirits (sic). The instruments were then packed, the colours furled, and our steps retraced to the camp. On our arrival, the flags were hoisted on our tents and sledges, and kept flying for the remainder of the day. A magnum of whiskey that had been sent by the Dean of Dundee for the express purpose of being consumed in the highest northern latitude, was produced, and a glass of grog served out to all, It is needless to add his kindness was thoroughly appreciated, nor was he forgotten in the toast of "absent friends." We were extremely fortunate in being able to get an altitude at noon, as shortly after the clouds gathered dark and thick, turning oot a cold, unpleasant afternoon. In spite of this, however, we all enjoyed our supper, as we had the hare shot by Moss at Depot Point equally divided between our two tents, cooked in our evening allowance of pemmican, making it uncommonly good and savoury. After supper a cigar, presented to us by May before leaving the ship, was issued to each man, and the day was brought to a close with songs, even the invalids joining in. All seemed happy, cheerful and contented.' If some of the good spirits of our party were caused by the thought that their dreadful and arduous labours were likely soon to come to a close, few can blame them. On the 13th May final preparations were made for a move south ; the tents were packed, and two record tins were placed, giving the details of the Expedition thus far, Whether these tins are still to be found i^ ^ question ; there is pone, that only to the birds and beasts, if any, who may have passed over the parallel of 83** 20' 26", can they have afforded information, Towards the evening the first move was made, and their faces turned from the North Pole. The journey south resembled in most respects the journey north j there was not so much road cutting, since they adhered to their old tracks as much as possible. Sometimes it was very difficult to distinguish the old path. When the days were dull and cloudy — and they frequently were — sky and sea appeared all one, and objects could not be seen further than a few yards. The invalids were getting worse, They had nothing in the shape of a remedy, except some lime-juice, served out every second day, and this was now just exhausted. The appetites of all were daily diminishing ; sometin^es a whole pannikin of pemmican, or the allowance of one man, would not be consumed at the evening meal. Nothing remained but to hasten to the depOt as fast as they CHAPTER V. 73 We could, which was slow indeed ; as Commander Markham expresses it, out of thirty-four legs in the party only five were sound. Two men, John Radmore and William Maskell, !ield out the longest, only complaining on the 28th. On that day, only the two officers remained untouched by the scourge of the party. In one respect the travelling south was more difficult than on the advance journey; the power of the sun began to manifest itself; and the snow-drifts of the northern journey became something like slush on the return. On some occasions the temperature at night inside the tents rose to between 60° and 70°, so that the men put off their coverlets and got outside their duffle bags. But this was not an unmixed good ; the odour of the tobacco smoke, combined with the fetid breaths of the invalids, rendered the atmosphere very un- pleasant. The rate of progress was much the same as that of the advance journey ; if the road-making was less severe, the other obstacles, combined with the increase of sickness, counterbalanced this advantage. Still some little incidents enlivened the tedium of the route. On the 24th, being the Queen's birthday, 'the colours were displayed at lunch time, the main-brace spliced, and Hei Majesty's health drank by her most northern, though not the less loyal subjects.' On the 29th, the anniversary of their leaving England, the same ceremonies were observed. 'Shortly before the tents were pitched, on the 28th, much excitement was caused by the appearance of a little snow-bunting (a kind of bird), which fluttered around us for a short time, uttering its to us rather sweet chirp, and 'rhen flew away to the northward and westward, in the direction of Cape Joseph Henry. This was an incident of no small interest to our party, as it was the first bird seen by the majority for a period of nine months ; even the sick men on the sledges requested they might have their heads uncovered and lifted, so as to obtain a glimpse of the little warbler.' It was the last token of summer one of them was destined ever to witness. On the 27th, the second boat was abandoned, nearly all the party being on the sick list, and the weight entirely too much for the strength of the rest. With it was I'^ft some empty vessels, some records, and 170 lbs. of pemmican — a sad sign of the want of appetite and depression of the system obtaining among all. So passed the month of May, and June was ushered in, to find them a perfect band of crir ^les. Still they held up ; every one pulled as long as he was able, trying to be cheerful, and uttering no complaints. The sight of this little band toiling heroically through ice and snow, dragging their disabled companions by day, and attending ffT « 74 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. I II upon them patiently and cheerfully by night, in ways which cannot be described here, would amply prove, if proof were wanting, that pluck and manly qualities cannot be said to have departed from our age. Five men were on the sledges, and four battled manfully behind, the remainder of the party dragging. Even after abandoning the boat, and with their diminished stock of provisions, the pull was over 200 lbs. per man ; and, as some of the hummocks had shifted their position, roads had -"gain to be cut in many places. They stniggled on, however, and on the 4th June reached the first depot, near which they observed the traces of human footGujps. On examining the depot they found letters telling them that Captains Nares and Feilden had been there the day before ! This was indeed a great disappointment, to be so near and vet so far from help. However, some consolation was aflForded — a ^^jod supply of groceries was obtained, and the Captain had killed three hares, which he left for them, not knowing that at the time he hid them, those for whom they were intended were within a couple of miles. The supper of fresh meat was most welcome ; and on the next day they encamped on the land for the first time during two months. On the 6th, having taken some articles from the depot, and leaving all superfluous weight, they started on ; but the appearance alone of the party showed that in their present condition they had but little prospect of reaching the ship. A few were pulling, a couple of them evidently in the last stage of exhaustion, and expected to drop out every moment ; others struggling on behind, and obliged to lie down and rest every thirty or forty yards ; the remainder helpless and powerless on the sledge — such was the aspect of the party which had started in high hope, health, and spirits on the 3rd April. Under these circumstances Lieutenant Parr volunteered to go on by himself to the Alert, a distance of forty miles, and bring back speedy relief to his suft"ering comrades. Markham had to accept his offer, and early in the morning of the 7 th he started off as lightly equipped as possible. It is not easy to say whether officers or men showed the greater heroism. Porter was extremely bad all that day, and the journal of the 8th contains the following melancholy passage : — * Poor Porter is no more ! After halting last night he was placed as usual in his tent, where I visited him before supper. He said, in answer to my inquiry, that he was easy and comfortable, and appeared to be more cheerful and talkative. Before I had quite finished my supper, I was called in haste to His tent, where I found him suffering from a spasmodic attack of some nature, and quite unconscious ; this was about 8 a.m. He was revived by having his nostrils bathed with spirits of ammonia, and then a li le rum, slightly diluted with water, was given him, when hdk CHAPTER V. 75 he regained consciousness. His breathing was sliort and stertorous ; he complained very much of a difficulty in breathing, and appeared to be sinking fast. Two hours after he had a similar attack, and was again brought round by the same means ; but he seemed to be much exhausted, although between the two attacks he had enjoyed a short do.'ie. After this he sank rapidly, and expired, with my fingers on his pulse, at ID minutes past 12 (noon). He was sensible to within a few minutes of his death, and his end was calm and quiet. This is a sad calamity, although we were not totally unprepared for it, and I fear the depressing moral effect that this lamentable event will have on those who are very sick, and who consider themselves to be in nearly as precarious a condition. The body was removed from the tent, and placed in an empty sledge. Calleil the cook at 4.30 p.m., and having read prayers in both tents, selected a spot for the grave in a deep snow- drift, not many yards from the camp. Here the grave was prepared by digging down through six feet of hard frozen snow, until the surface of the floe was reached, and then :v/o feet further down into the solid ice. The coqjse, which had swelled u[) considerably, and was terribly disfigured after dissolution took ])lace, was sewn up in a sleeping-bag, and laid in a sledge. With the ensign half-mast, and the Union Jack as a pall, the fimeral procession, attended by all but the four very bad cases, started at 9, and the burial service being read, the remains were consigned to their last icy resting place in this world. Improvising a rude cross, formed with a boat's oar and a spare sledge-batten, it was placed at the head of the grave, with the following inscription : — ** Beneath this cross lie buried the remains of George Porter, R.M.A., who died on June 8th, 1876. Thy will be done." Of all the melancholy and mournful duties I have ever been called upon to perform, this has been the saddest. A death in a small party like ours, and under the present circumstances, is a most dis- tressing event, and is keenly felt by all. During the service, all were more or less afi'ected, and many to tears. I hope I may be acciuitted of the charge of having performed the last rites with indecent haste, but I considered my duties to the living should outweigh any senti ments for the dead ; and that it was of paramount importance, in order to guard against a repetition of the sad scene of to-duy, that we should use our utmost endeavours to reacli the ship as speedily as possible.' We think our readers will agree with us, that any explanation or apology on this head was quite unnecessary. Whatever other charge may be brought against the conduct of the Expedition, there is not the slightest pretence to impugn the care the officers took of their men ; 76 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. i ♦ their solicitude for their health and comfort, compatible with the objects of the explorers, was, if anything, carried to excess. It is hard to say what would have been the result, had the party to endure even a few days more of this travelling. It is certain that at least two or three would have shared the fate of Porter, and left their bones in the Arctic wastes. The melancholy procession was resumed on the 9th, all determined to struggle to the last. All eyes were kept directed towards the south, when about ii p.m. an object was descried moving rapidly among the hummocks. It was the dog- sledge with May and Moss. Though the colours were hoisted, the men could scarcely raise a cheer, so carried away were they by their feelings. Well and faithfully had Parr redeemed his promise. Though starting at 7 a.m. on the 7th, with nearly 40 miles of a heavy road before him, such was the expedition he used, that he wr.s alongside the Alert at 6 p.m. on the 8th. When his tale was told, immediate steps were taken to send relief to the sufferers. Dr. Moss and Lieutenant May started at once with the dog-sledge, bringing some medical comforts and fresh food ; the captain was to follow as soon as possible with two more sledges. The invalids revelled in lime-juice, ox-cheek, and fresh mutton, with port wine in lieu of grog ; but the sight of the new comers, and the prospect of soon meeting the rest of their companions, and reaching the ship, had perhaps a more potent effect. They marched on like new men, and on the next day, roth June, they met Captain Nares with the main party. The greeting, though warm, was short ; the doctor considered the best thing to be done was to get the men on to the ship as speedily as possible, so the new-comers quickly took charge of the sledges and invalids, and started south. Ikit some of the original northern party still stuck to their guns ; Markham, with his party (whom he called his lame ducks;, Lawrence, Joliffe, Radmore, and Maskell still pulled their sledge, nor did they desist until the Alert was reached. The rest of the journey was mere child's play, compara- tively ; there were no return journeys for the sledges, and instead of the constant entries: ' Miles actually travelled, 10; miles made good, i^, &c,' the log of the nth shows: 'Course and distance made good, 6 miles,' and of the T2th, 11 miles. At half-past one, on the morning of Wednesday, 14th June, the party got alongside the Alert, having been absent 72 days. In that time they had only attained a distance of 73 miles from the ship, and about 30 miles from the nearest point of Grant's Land This result seems small, and is certainly entirely disproportionate to the toil, labour, and danger incurred by the Expedition. It must be remembered, i.__j CHAPTER V. 77 however, that almost every mile of an advance involved 5 miles of laborious travelling ; each portion made good had to be crossed again and again, bringing up the sledges singly with the full strength of the party. The »vork from the beginning was more than sufficient to tax the best energies of the entire number ; the last part had to be got through by one-third, themselves stricken with disease, yet having to drag their disabled comrades. The number of Phiglish miles actually travelled by the party in going and returning, was 601 ; 318 going, and 283 returning. The difference between the last two was caused by the fact that, alter meeting the captain's party, there were no double or treble journeys over the same ground each day. Dr. Moss made a medical examination of the men whom he met on the 9th June. He found all attacked by scurvy, four of them most dangerously, and Markham, Radmore, and Joliffe slightly. Hawkins and Pcarce, perhaps one or two more, could scarcely have survived much longer ; lime-juice, fresh food, with port, champagne, &.C., when necessary, brought them round. 1'his brings us to a subject about which there has been a great deal of controversy, namely, the directions of Captain Nares to the sledge parties not to carry lime-juice, or at least not sufficient for a daily ration. These directions were in opposition to the wishes of the medical officers of the Expedition ; but Captain Nares defended his action in the following manner : — He said first, that no sledging party, previous to his Expedition, carried lime-juice ; it was left in the depots established for their use, but not taken when actually travelling ; yet such parties performed their work, as a rule, withou*: suffering Irom scurvy. In this statement Captain Nares was undoubtec'ly mistaken j some of the sledging parties he enumerates did not, certainly, carry lime-juice, but others as certainly did ; and in those of them which were most fortunate in escaping scurvy, the officers made the men take it, not being content unless they saw them daily swallow their ration. In the second place, he says, that the weight of the lime- juice would be a serious impediment to the progress of the party, and that time to thaw it when frozen could not be spared. Half an ounce daily for each man of Commander Markham's party would be about 35 lbs. weight for the whole journey, not a great addition surely, seeing that each man, after leaving Cape Joseph Henry, had over 400 lbs. to i)ull. As to the waste of time, the daily halt to melt snow or ice, and boil it for the midday lunch, was not considered time wasted ; it put the men into good heart, and made them get through their work much better ; so that, even if the melting of the lime-juice took time, it should not be an obstacle, if it acted as a II ;1 78 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. preservative against scurvy. We do not find, however, that any diffi- culty was experienced on this occasion in giving out the ration of lime-juice to his invalids ; and surely, after the evening or morning meal was cooked, the heat was sufficient to thaw the lime-juice. Lastly, Captain Nares says, that the outbreak of scurvy was caused by the long detention in darkness during the winter of 1875-6, the severe physical exertions undergone by the men, and the absence of fresh food. He instances the cases of the officers being attacked last, assigning as a reason that they did not take part in hauling the sledges from the beginning, which, he says, proves it was the labour, not the absence of lime- juice, which caused the outbreak. No doubt the circumstances Captain Nares mentions were powerful predisposing causes of the disease ; but in our opinion this was exactly a reason why he should not have adopted the course he did. As there were so many exciting causes of the disease before the spring sledging parties started, the only anti-scorbutic at his disposal should have been freely supplied to his men. Most probably the outbreak would still have occurred ; but at least it would have been postponed, leaving the men able to get through more work ; the attack would not have been so violent, and possibly the men who died would have been able to hold out until relief came. It was evidently a question of days with them ; for instance, had Porter been attacked a few days later, the last stage of his malady would not have come so soon, and he might have been alive when Dr. Moss met the party on the 9th June, in which case there is a strong likelihood his life would have been saved. We shall see that, in the other cases of death, the circumstances were the same ; one succumbed before the others ; the latter, in an acute stage of the disease, met relief just in time. In making these observations, we are not to be understood as wishing to detract from the great merits of Captain Nares ; he com- mitted an error of judgment, while acting for the best, according to his own conscientious convictions ; and few placed in such a position would escape without some error of the kind. Except in the case of Lieutenant Aldrich's expedition, whose history we are about to give, the outbreak did not much affect the success of the exploration , the parties could have done little more under any circumstances than they actually achieved. % I I :4 CHAPTER VI. tage of DEPARTURE OF THE WESTERN SLEDGING PARTY — ACROSS CAPE HENRY — MOST NORTHERN POINT OF GRANT LAND — DESCRIPTION OF CAPE CO- LUMHIA — MOUNTS DISRAELI AND GLADSTONE — SCURVY — ALDRICH's FARTHEST — YELVERTON BAY — THE RETURN — SUFFERINGS OF THE PARTY — NEWS FROM THE SHIP — RELIEF — HOME AGAIN. We have described the fortunes of the northern sledging party ; we have narrated its advance, the difficulties it had to overcome, the disasters it encountered, and its calamitous retreat ; it is our duty now to accompany Lieutenant Aldrich and his companions in their journey along the north shore of Grinnell Land. Though its career was a chequered one, and though it, too, suffered from the scourge which had made such havoc with Commander Markham's party, it was the most successful which left the ships, having travelled over a much larger extent of country, and without any loss of life. A part of the route traversed had been explored by Sir E. Parry in 1827, and by the sledging parties already despatched by the present Expedition for the purposes of pioneering, and placing depots ; it remained for Aldrich's men to examine and map out accurately the work of their prede- cessors, and then to push on to fresh fields and pastures new, if we may venture to apply so well-worn a quotation to the regions of eternal snow. There were two sledges placed under Lieutenant Aldricli's command, the Challenger and the Poppie, but only the former was to a(-company him the whole route. Lieutenant Giffard, his second in command, was to take charge of the second sledge,, and to accompany Aldrich for a certain distance beyond Cape Parry, and to learn from his superior for the time being the point where a depot should be placed for use on the return journey. Another depot was to be made at a point to the east of the same cai)e ; and thus two su])ports were assured for the party. The crew of the Challenger were Joseph Good, boatswain's mate, who ..i.d as sledge captain; William Wood,, sergeant in the Royal Marines; Adam Ayles, petty officer; 1>.»vid Mitchell, A.H. ; James Dodge, f aptain of the foretop; Henry Mann, shipwright; and 'J'homas ijaibbs, blacksmith. The motto was, ' Fortitude) Vincet,' and bravely was it exemplified in the course of the journey. The weight of the „j!S3amam I ¥ 80 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. sledge when packed, and the provisions, was nearly 1700 lbs., or an average pull per man of 241 lbs. This was severe enough, but com- paratively light when contrasted with the heavy weight dragg' by Commander Markham's party. The cause of the difference was, that depots could be placed on the coast of Grinnell Land, thus lightening the load the Challenger had to carry. In addition, the latter had no ice-boat to drag ; their journey was to be by land, and easier travelling was anticipated. The instructions given to Aldrich by Captain Nares were, to travel as far along the coast of Grinnell Land as his provisions would allow, to examine and note its configuration, and to watch carefully for any indi- cations of land towards the north. The provisions taken by the party, along with those to be afterwards placed in depot, were sufficient to permit of an absence of seventy-six days. Should anyone from the Discovery be met with, or should the fates and the ice lead to a meeting with Markham's command (it must be remembered that the direction of Grinnell Land beyond Cape Columbia was unknown, and that, for aught they knew, it might trend northwards), the information acc^uired by each was to be communicated to the other, but the plans laid down and the orders given were not to be departed from. Cairns were to be erected, and records deposited in them, specifying the movements of the party, their destination and prospects, and all other information likely to be of use to future explorers. These records, too, were intended, if necessary, to serve a more melancholy purpose. In case they were destined never to return, such papers would at least tell their fate to those who inight follow in their footsteps. Thus a paper written by Captain Crozier, and found by M'Clintock in Boothia Felix, was the first authentic information of the fate of Franklin's Expedition. It is to be remembered, to the credit of Captain Nares and those who sketched out the plan of operations, that no such sad mementoes were necessary in the case of the late exploration. We have before stated, that Aldrich's ])arty started with Markham's on April 3rd, and that they remained in company until they reached the neighbourhood ot Cape Joseph Menry. The narrative we have given of the advance of that party will, therefore, apply to this, and need not be re])eated. On the second day, Good and Hill complained, a serious omen so early in the advance, and on the 5th, Sergeant Wood was added to the list. This did not look promising, but on the next day Good and the sergeant pronounced themselves 'all right.' On the nth the two parties sepaiated, Aldrich coming to the determination of crossing landwards across Cape Joseph Henry, instead t )s., or an but rom- ragg by c was, that lightening er had no r travelling e, to travel d allow, to )r any indi- the party, ufficient to e from the lead to a ed that the known, and Information It the plans 3m. Cairns ecifying the nd all other records, too, jurpose. In juld at least iteps. Thus M'Clintock the fate of it of Captain that no such ration. I Markham's they reached ive we have pply to this, jd and Hill on the 5th, »k i)romising, 1 themselves 1 I ■r. Y. -~\ '■•> A OS ning to the enry, instead f^ \\ .i m CHAPTER Vr. 8x of rounding it on the ice ; and accordingly at 1.15 colours were hoisted, hearty cheers and good wishes exchanged, and ,a farewell taken. Lieutenant Aldrich formed an accurate notion of the difficulties likely to be encountered by Markham, as the following extract from his journey will show : — ' I am glad at having experienced a few of the very many difliculties, which I fear will hamper the northern division. I am afraid they will meet with very small floes, and very heavy and wide fringes of hummocks. Double banking and road-making will be constant.' Before parting, Hill was exchanged for David Mitchell, able seaman, the former returning to the Alert with Dr. Moss. The western party being now left to their own resources, it will be a convenient place to give details of their costumes, as the latter differed somewhat from those we have described before. Body Ckar. I under flannel, doublc-breastecl. I cholera belt. I ship's guernsey. I blue guernsey. I check shirt. I overall jumper. Lfc. Gear. I pair of flannel drawers. I pair of duffle trousers. I i)air of overalls. Foot Gear. I pair of ship's flannel wrappers. 1 pair of blanket wrappers. I pair of grey boot hose. I pair of mocassins. In addition, the men wore mits, sealskin caps, Eugenics, skull caps, &c. ; and their knapsacks contained extra supplies of the above articles, comforters, and the unfailing pipe. Goggles were worn by all, as a protection against snow-blindness. On the 1 2th April they struck inland, Aldrich going on ahead to explore the route, and examine the country. He found a deep crei'dssc, but the snow was harder, and in better condition for travelling than when he visited this quarter in the preceding autumn. He made an attempt to ascend Conical Hill, but the ice was too thickly packed round the base. A description of its appearance may be interesting : ' The ice has been forced uj) and broken against the exceedingly steep shore, till in some places it /orms a curve, and resembles the back wash of water from a rock ; wliere this occurs, there are generally lanes of young ice below and outside it, but an end soon caitie to these, and the ice is piled close up against the shore, without ice-foot or leads of any description.' The 1 2th, 13th, and 14th were spent in crossing the promontory (Feilden Penin-,ula, called after the naturalist attached to the Alert), and on the 15th James Ross Bay was reached; this lies between rn-" - v^^ i 1 I ! i ' I 89 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. Feilden and Parry Peninsulas, and is about nine miles deep. On the 13th some hare and ptarmigan tracks were seen, and Giffard managed to bag four of the former. These made a splendid dinner for the parly, already heartily tired of the pemmican. When James Ross Bay was* reached, it was not easy to distinguish it ; no foaming surge beating on the pebbles, or any of the other adjuncts which present themselves to our imaginations when the word ' bay' is mentioned, were visible ; nothing but the eternal ice. On reaching it their course was shaped to the north-west, in the direction of Cape Hecia, and at the entrance to the bay a small island, named after the ill-f:ited Crozier, was examined. It is about 250 feet in height, and appears to be formed either of shingle forced up by the ice, or of the debris washed down the surrounding hills by the occa- sional summer torrents. The ice hummocks appeared closely packed, and jammed against Cape Joseph Henry, but recede from the shore around Cape Hecla and the neighbouring coasts, a circumstance which seems to show that the tidal movements, and the forcing of the park from the Pala^ocrystic Sea into Robeson Channel, are in full force at the former promontory. The travelling up to the present had been tolerable, sometimes the sledges being double nianned, sometimes single ; most frequently the former, the rate made good being on an average three or four miles a day. On the i8th Lieutenant Ciffard and ten of the men built a cairn in Crozier Island, in which the usual records were deposited, and the party then crossed Parry Peninsula, reaching the inlet beyond Parker Bay on the 20th. A good view from the neighbourhood of Cape Hecla showed that the hummocks, as far as could be seen, kept at some distance from the land, leaving a comparatively level space between them and the shore. This promised well for the future travelling, and was a welcome sight to our voyager.s. To the north was a wide inlet, which was named after Clements Markham, the secretary to the Royal Geographical Society, and nearly opposite, but to the north-west, was seen a cape, called after Dr. Colan, of the Alert. Explorers of new regions have in a limited way the power of conferring immortality, since it mainly rests with them to give names to the localities they visit. Aldrich's party, and indeed the other parties in like manner (except Markhani's, which had no land to name), availed themselves of this jirivilege for the advantage of their shipmates, and even the rank and file, the common sailors and marines, had their names liberally bestowed upon the various prominent localities in the northern shores of Grant Land. Thus we have in the chart drawn up after the return of the Expedition, Doidge Bay, Aylcs Bay, Gros Point, [h^. - f ti>m v * m i m m * m CHAPTER VI. 83 On the managed he party, Bay was^ ;ating on selves to ; nothing it, in the ill island, t 250 feet up by the the orca- y packed the shore ice which ■ the pack )rce at the etimes the uently the ur miles a m built a )sited, and L't beyond )urhood of seen, kept evel space the future ; north was e secretary but to the ■ the Alert. f conferring mes to the r parties in me), availed pmates, and had their dities in the rt drawn up (jros Point » ' f J r4 Stubbs Point, &:c., &c. The authorities for the time being, especially the naval ones, are also remembered in such cases, and Ward Hunt Island, Yelverton Bay, Milne Bay, and Cape Albert Edward, will show to posterity who were first lords, admirals, and princes of the blood, when the Arctic Expedition of 1875-6 pursued its wanderings. Evi- dently the present Premier did not communicate to Captain Nares or his men, when leaving England, the probability of his translation from the commons to the peers, and his consequent change of designation ; and so we have Disraeli Bay, Mount Disraeli, &c., without any suspicion that the man they delighted to honour was at that moment the Earl of Beaconsfield. Nor were the Opposition altogether forgotten. On the western side of Clement Markham Inlet are two lofty peaks, dominating all around, and facing each other, across a valley lying between. Each is of the same altitude, 2500 feet, and one is appro- priately named Mount Disraeli, and the other Mount Gladstone. On looking at their positions and titles in the chart, one is involuntarily reminded of the table running along the centre of St. Stephens, with the prominent and well-known figures which formerly faced each other from the Treasury and front Opposition benches. But this is a digression for which neither we nor our explorers have sufficient time. Two days brought them to 'Cape Colan, where on the 22nd a depot was placed. The travelling was not so good as was at first anticipated ; for though the shore looked level, the snow was very deep, necessitating frequent double manning. To get an idea of the nature of the ground, or whatever it may be called, over which he was advancing, Aldrich dug down near Cape Stuckberry, west of Cape Colan. He found the snow from i to 4j4 feet deep, and then came to what he thought was land, but which he found to be a thin layer of mud lying on the top of the hard ice. On this, as on other occasions, it was impossible to say at first whether the party was crossing low land near the shore-cliffs, or the actual frozen sea. On Sunday, the 23rd, Point Moss was reached, and a long line of coast lay before them, stretching north-west. The shore was bordered with clifis, and inland were seen several mountain peaks, above which Mounts Disraeli and Gladstone towered conspicuously. The line of travelling, which looked so promising from Cape Hecla, was, like many other distant prospects, less pleasing in the reality. It was level, certainly; but the smooth surface was of snow, in some places nearly 5 feet deep. The work of dragging the sledges through this soft mass was very harassing, and necessitated double manning. The most prominent point in the distance w is named Giftard Point, and thither the steps of the party were dircctcl, a;j Aldrich intended leaving a depot there. ^J ^> ^%. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4is '«> C^x 1.0 Ifi I.I 1.25 •-iillM 112,5 'iS IM 1 2.2 KS — nil 2.0 111= 14 III 1.6 ^^^ <^ /a A '^/. y >^ Photographic Sciences Corporation ?3 WEST MAIM STREET W£bSTER,N.f. 14580 (716) 87'J-4503 its fA p^- 1 I : ■ ; t ll i i 84 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 87 5-6. The next day, the 25th, was that fixed for the return of the supporting party, consisting of Lieutenant Giffard and the crew of the sledge Poppie. All the spare provisions were transferred from the Poppie to the Chnllenger, and all hands joined in pulling the latter as far forward r-.s possible, the return party leaving their own sledge for the preseni-, intending to hook it again on their way back. Even with the help thus afforded the progress was slow. Aldrich writes : — ' No improve- ment in the travelling, and the sledge came to a dead stop over and over again in the deep soft snow, and this notwithstanding the desire of all to get as far as possible before parting company. Had anyone been in the neighbourhood, and unacquainted with the method of progression in this detestable travelling, they would very probably have been astonished at the constant shouts of " One, two, three, haul," varied by "Maintopsail, haul," to relieve the monotony of the same "old yarn." However, we had the whole country to ourselves, and were at perfect liberty to expend as much of our breath in shouting as we could spare, without fear of awakening or frightening anybody.' Theirs were the first human voices which ever broke the stillness of the perennial winter on this dreary coast. At 5 o'clock on that evening, Giffard and his men started on their homeward journey (the Alert held their Lares and their Penates, at least for the time being). The usual cheers and good wishes were exchanged, and Aldrich accompanied his fellow-lieutenam; for a short distance, giving him his final instructions regarding the positions of the depots. Giffard reached his vessel on May 3rd. On his way back, he wj", to examine Clement Markham Inlet, if time and other circum- stances permitted. He found, however, that its investigation was impracticable. He had first to reach the ship, and then to start with depots for the use of the party he had left. But he examined the inlet as well as he could. He found it to run into the land, with a direction somewhat westerly, and its coast was formed mainly of steep cliffs. In the distance were seen mountains nearly 3000 feet high ; and from their position he inferred that it was merely an arm of the sea, and not a channel. Whether this is the case or not, is reserved for future explorers to determine ; they alone can say does it soon terminate, or is it a strait communicating with the ocean near the scene of Franklin's and M'Clintock's labours, thus making an island of thc^ part of Grant Land whose northern shores Aldrich was now travelling. The latter camped for the night, shortly after parting with Giffard. We use the term ' night ' rather conventionally. Where our voyagers now were, the sun never disappeared below the horizon. All the parties got into the habit of 'night' travelling; their object mainly m: ■ 1 ' ' M ttm«m a t M * \ *** iA i m mmmm»mmm porting sledge e to the vard rr, preseni", he help • iiprove- iver and e desire anyone ithod of Dly have ," varied d yarr;." t perfect Id spare, vere the al winter on their ;, at least lCS were a short s of the back, he circum- Ition was Itait with the inlet [direction lliffs. In om their id not a r future inate, or ranklin's [of Grant Giffard. [voyagers AH the [t mainly CHAPTER VI. 8S py was, to have the sun behind them, or, at least, in such a position as not to cast too great a glare into their eyes. This, as a rule, could best be done while he was low down in the heavens. All the men were apparently in good health and spirits, the principal obstacle to success being the nature of the snow, and the consequent heavy travelling. The sledge had to make double journeys, taking half the load at first, and then returning for the remainder. Only 2j4 miles were made good, but the men were, nevertheless, much fatigued ; ' the fact being that, light loads or heavy loads, this thick snow takes it out of one tremendously, and the constant standing pulls shake one to pieces.' On the 27th we find, 'The double journeys are most dis- couraging to the men, and their looks of disappointment when, after nine hours' labour, they find themselves only 2}^ to 3 miles from where they started, show how much more they would do if they could.' By actual measuremem ^^ <-h's day, Aldrich found that the rate of advance was about 1400 yards per hour, the amount made good, on account of the returning, packing, &c., being only ^ of a mile. Giffard Peak, nearly 2000 feet high, was reached on this day, and beyond it was a small curve, about i j4 mile deep, which was called Doidge Bay, after one of the sledge party. The north-west face of the peak is a precipice, and from tlie form of it and some adjoining hills, the name of the Arm Chair was given to all. On the 29th the main-brace was spliced, in honour of crossing the 83rd parallel, and the toast Avas, * Success to the Northern Division. The kettle on this day was found to leak ; on examining it, a hole was discovered, caused by the cook using the point of a knife to overcome the scruples of a lump of cocoa reluctant to dissolve. Trifling as the incident may appear, it occasioned a great deal of trouble before the mishap was rectified. The next day the successor to this impatient genius eclipsed himself, time and quality being both improved. ' I am informed,' says Aldrich, ' that turning the spout of the condenser to windward exercises a very beneficial effect in the quantity of water made therein ! ' Altogether this was a day of promise ; in the morning the travelling was found to be improved, being at the rate of 1650 yards per hour. * This was a short march, partly on account of shifting our travelling hours still farther into the night, and partly 011 account of its being Sunday. I have always intended making some distinction in the day's work, but hitherto our journeys have been so short I have not felt justified in doing so. My men are all in capital spirits ; the improved travelling, the warm weather, and prospects of getting in, all tending to a rapid rise in the " Social Barometer," which in our small community is as desirable as welcome.' r \ i t i si f . ;i I .1 86 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. Had their prescience been greater, their spirits would not have been so light that evening ; the first ominous presage of future disaster made its appearance. Sergeant-Major Wood had a very ugly-looking red patch or blotch on his leg just above his ankle, and his limb was swollen. This was, of course, scurvy ; but all, both officers and men, were in blissful ignorance of its symptoms, and thought the sergeant's complaint was due to his lacing his foot-gear too taut ; they therefore went to rest in happy unconsciousness. On the I St May, Aldrich Cape was reached, Stubbs Point (called after the blacksmith, one of the sledge crew), and Wood Point, named after the sergeant, having been passed. At Cape Aldrich, the lieu- tenant determined to place a depot for his return journey, but he had a difficulty in finding a suitable spot. It may not be amiss here to describe the mode of formation of these indispensable adjuncts to lengthened Arctic travelling. A hole, eight or ten inches deep (in the actua' soil, if at all practicable), is first dug. On account of the hard- ness of the soil at Cape Aldrich, it took four men 2)4 hours to accom- plish this. In the hole thus scooped out, a gutta-percha case is placed, containing the groceries ; over this the pemmican tins, and then the bacon, rum, and other articles. Then plenty of stones are placed round, to a suitable height, so as to secure the provisions from the prying scent of wild beasts ; over all is heaped Snow. Where there is not much likelihood of any visitors except exploring parties, as was the case here, a pole, or something of that nature, is fixed above, and a record placed on or near it. When the depot wzls made secure, the load was lightened to the extent of 300 lbs., no slight gain. The appearance of the party, and the aspect of the surrounding regions, partook altogether of nature's sternest moods. The men were together, pulling the sledge fastened by ropes to their drag-belts, and sinking in the snow at every step. Nothing but snow was visible in any direction ; to the right, a level expanse, with a distant border of hummocks ; to tl>e left, a line of cliffs, with projecting points here and there, and, at a distance of 5 miles, a lofty peak, shaped like a sugar-loaf, rising to the height of 1800 feet, draped in the eternal white, and terminating to the right on the sea coast in a promontory about 800 feet in altitude. The land in the direction of this last-mentioned elevation trended slightly to the north- west. The true direction was W. by N. j4 N. On nearing this cape, a conical hill appeared in the distance, and immediately afterwards a succession of capes or bluffs. Their general direction was west by south, and, on reaching the promontory, it was seen to be farther north than any. An observation was made by^ Aldrich, and he found it to be i BSRSBenrr CIIAPTKR VI. 87 /e been :r made ing red Tib was :id men, irgeant's herefore (called , named he I'eu- he had here to incts to ) (in the he hard- ) accom- ; placed, then the ; placed from the there is was the e, and a to the arty, and nature's fastened ery step, t, a level of cliffs, miles, a 800 feet, the sea in the he north- his cape, fterwards west by ler north 1 it to be in latitude 83" 7' north, and longitude 70" 10' west; and it thus proved to be the most nortlierly portion of land which has been as yet visited by man. Thus the first day of summer was a memorable day for the western sledging party ; on it they reached this remarkable point, which Captain Nares afterwards appropriately called Cape Columbia. It risco almost perpendicular from the sea. Its general appearance is worthy of Its position ; and around its base, where the party camped, was a hard .snow-drift, about 12 feet deep. The hi.'avens themselves lent their aid to render this day memorable in the annals of the Expedition ; in the afternoon a perihelion was visible, consisting of four mock suns, and right above the true sun was a most brilliant arc of prismatic colours, with the red especially vivid. On the same day. and at no great distance, Markham's party, disabled by scurvy, was struggling northwards, but with no hopeful aspirations. The heavens put on no gorgeous aspect for them. Neither their onward prospects nor their inward hopes were so brilliant as those of their comrades at Cape Columbia. The weather being remarkably fine, Aldrich determined to halt, and to ascend on the next day the high mountain behind Cape Columbia, named North Cooper Key Peak. He anticipated a splendid view over the Paloeocrystic Sea, and almost the entire north of Grant Land, and the whole crew were anxious to be of the party. They might have remained to rest, but who would spend the day in inglorious ease, with ii mountain 1800 feet to be ascended, and a magnificent prospect to be admired ? All could not go ; and their leader desired them to tlraw lots for one to remain with the tent. The unenviable distinction fell upon Doidge, who was anything but cheerful under the circumstances. However, his comrades were not fated to have any advantage over him ; during breakfast a fog-bank appeared, the wind increased, and a mist overspread the sky. If they made the toilsome ascent of the North Cooper Key Peak, no splendid view would compensate. Nothing remained but to start on their forward journey. Aldrich hoped on returning to have the pleasure now denied him. It will be seen what untoward events interposed when he again passed Cape Columbia. After rounding the cape, the coast appeared moderately steep, from 400 to 800 feet high, and broken up into indentations or bays. The first of the latter, next the cape, was of moderate depth, And was called Markham Bay. On its opposite side was a I Id promontory, which they called after the captain. The travelling for the past few days was especially good, being almost at the rate of a mile an hour. The next couple of days were cloudy and misty, and the rate of 88 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 875-6. ; HI nil \\\ m progress rather slower, thougli still the travelling might be accounted good. After passing Cape Nares, the coast continued nearly due west, along which they travelled until, on the 4th, they reached a cape which they named Albert Edward. On the west of this was a bay about 25 miles across, its greatest depth being 10 miles. This was called Disraeli Bay, and the extreme cape, opposite Albert PMward Point, was named after the amiable consort of the Prince of Wales. The present First Lord of the Admiralty is placed in the same distinguished company as the Premier, an island at the entrance of Disraeli Bay being called Ward Hunt Island. A little to the east of Cai)e Alexander is a very peculiar hill, resembling the ram-bow of an ironclad, and about 800 feet high ; its summit is composed of very hard, dark-looking stone. Some fox and lemming tracks were here visible, the only sign of animal life seen for a long time. Near Ram Bow Plill a depot was placed, the lieutenant and Ayk's in the meantime ascending the cliff to obtain a view. The ground round the depot is * beautiful-lookmg soil;' we presume Portia's apophthegm applies here.'^ The contrast between the blinding glare of the snow and * the small shingle, last year's saxifrage and poppy, and this year's moss, which latter was of such a brilliant green, we all thoroughly enjoyed looking at it. It did our eyes good. After passing Cape Alexandra the coast still continued to run west until, on the 8th, Cape Stephenson was reached, beyond which was an inlet named M'Clintock Bay. The land nearing Cape Stephenson is very undulating, and numerous ridges of ice occur. The travelling was good, and when the camp was reached and the tent pitched, on the 9th, the temperature was so high that the men were able to enjoy a comfortable pipe in the open air. Unfortunately, though the rate of progress was good so far, and though the sergeant's symptoms did not appear to get worse, about this time there v/ere general complaints of stiff and swollen legs. The former were naturally expected, and the first symptoms of the sort did not occasion much remark. But when, instead of wearing away, they increased, and the flesh became soft, and liable to injury from a slight pressure, matters began to look serious. M'Clintock Bay is surrounded by a bold, cliffy coast, two pro- montories, Beth ell and Bromley Points, projecting into it, and attaining an altitude of 1000 feet each. On the opposite side of the bay is Cape Richards, beyond which is high and undulating land, about 1500 feet high, terminating in Cape Fanshawe Martin. On the western side of this cape is a ravine, with precipitous sides of ice ; and, immediately beyond, a deep bay, called after Ayles. The direction of the land * * Nothing is good, I see, without respect.' *l JJ^IIU- v-—^ ux CHAPTER VI. 89 runted e west, 1 cape a bay This Albert ■ince of le same ance of iar hill, igh ; its fox and en for a lutenant k-. The presume blinding \ poppy, n, we all run west lich was phenson •avelling ;hed, on |to enjoy rate of did not laints of and the t when, oft, and lious. |wo pro- ttaining bay is tut 1500 [ern side lediately he land '/ L ' from Cape Columbia had been hitherto nearly due west. From Cape Fanshawe Martin it began to trend to the south-west. The men were getti-,^- very much done up ; the scurvy was telling upon them, though it had not, up to the present, made such ravages as it had among tlie other parties. But the crew of the Challenger did not know the condition of their comrades at this period, and the following extract from the journal of May 14th will show the feelings which animated them : — ' A Sunday morning, with a desultory conversation going on while waiting for pemmican, now of England, now of fresh food and vegetables (a pretty constant topic), and an occasional lamentation as to the wretched state of the legs, with an expectation that they may be the only cases, and the fear that in consequence their work will not bear comparison with that done by the other sledges, and those who have gone before us.' Is not this a touch of the same spirit which made Collingwood say, on the memorable October day off Cape Trafalgar : ' What would Nelson give to be here ? ' while his commander, at the same moment, was exclaiming : ' See how that noble fellow, Collingwood, brings his ship into action?' At this time most of the men were in a precarious condition ; the lieutenants, Ayles, and Mitchell, were the strongest, swollen legs, in many cases discoloured, affecting the rest. They were now crossing Milne Bay, and the direction of their journey was south-west. They were getting along at, for the region, a rapid rate, their average speed being about a mile an hour. On account of the heat of the weather, there were frequent complaints of thirst. Great inconvenience was experienced from the waterproof sheet supplied for use in the tent; it did not at all merit its name. In the morning it required delicate handling, as it was easily cracked ; some novel experiments were con- sequently made on the stuff called * sheet insertion,' composed of vulcanized india-rubber and canvas. After soaking it in water, it was exposed for 24 hours to a temperature of from —55" to -60° — that is, over 90 degrees below freezing point, and it remained pliable as ever. The great defect of articles of covering in Arctic travelling is, that they absorb moisture, and then freeze, becoming sometimes like cast-iron. The most western point of Milne Bay is named Cape Evans ; the sledge-crew took the liberty of calling it ' Game Leg Point.' The suffering members were called in derision, ' game legs,' and were in other respects the objects of jest. One of the party saying that he felt him- self increasing in weight ; ' I wouldn't wonder,' responded his comrade, ' look at the size of your legs.' The worst feature was the loss of appetite — at least, for such food as they had ; the pemmican was especially distaste- ful, though perhaps the nourishment best suited to their circumstances. i|:' r»t tl Ir I \ i' •I iii !;i ; ) 90 THE ARCTIC KXPKDITION OF 1875-6. They asked Aldrich to allow them to make a plentiful use of the turpentine-liniment : he philosophically '■emarks, * As it is the only means I have of leading them to believe they are doing themselves good, it is again in full swing, and likely to scent the tent every night until it is finished. Luckily, we all like the smell.' Their taste in this respect was peculiar ; but if the turpentine did them no harm, it did them no good. When at Cape Evans on the 15th May, it was found that the pick- axe had been left behind at the last encampment. This was unfortunate, and Aldrich determined to start back the next day to recover what was a treasure in such a region. Accordingly, directing the rest of the party to start, he took Ayles with him, and retraced his steps to their encampment of yesterday. Just as they secured the pickaxe, a puff of wind came from the north-east, and brought a fog-bank with it There was no time, even had there been inclination, to admire the scenery, so they marched quickly in the track of their companions. The wind had now increased to a moderate gale, and the consequent drift threatened to obliterate the path made by the passage of the sledge. After a time they were frequently astray, and a novel pair of compasses had to be constructed. Ayles stood still, while the lieutenant described a circle around him, in the effort to pick up the trail. This was repeated several times ; they got exhausted, and were contemplating a night's camping out in the snow, when the tent hove in sight about 51 yards from them. Ju^^t as they got the welcome view, they heard a gun fired, and afterwards a most unearthly yelling from their comrades, with the pipe of the boatswain's mate whistling shrill and clear above the din. This- musical party had been carried on for some time ; they feared Aldrich and Ayles might have lost their way in the drift, and they adopted this method of giving them notice of their whereabouts. The tent looked cheerless enough ; though camped for three hours, the men had not cooked anything, nor had they changed their foot-clothing, but were disconsolate in the extreme. When their comrades appeared, all was joy and bustle ; the cook set to work, and soon pemmican and tea made even the Arctic wastes enjoyable for the time. The gale and drift continued during the night, and they had to dig themselves out in the morning. The wind was still playing its gambols, and the snow was raised in every direction to the height of 15 or 20 feet above the ordinary level, rendering everything indistinct. Above, there was a blue sky, with the sun shining, but only occasional glimpses could be got ; at last the gale subsided, and the party got under weigh. There is one advantage in a breeze, however ; when it blows, a sail can be rigged on the sledge, which expedites the travelling. TS^ CHAl'TKR VI. 9' of the e only mselves ry night in this , it did lie pick- rtiinate, 'hat was ; of the to their :, a puff with it nire the IS. The ent drift ; sledge. )mpasses [escribed rhis was plating a it about heard a Dinrades, ir above le; they rift, and bouts. ;e hours, clothing, ppeared, ican and gale and IS out in he snow 30ve the was a :ould be There can be The party, after passing Cape Evans, found themselves in a bay, which they called Yelverton Bay; its coast was high in places, detached hills were seen inland, and steep promontories stretched from the main- land. In the distance, towards the south-west, a cape was seen, which they called Cape Alert, but whicli was afterwards named Cape Alfred Ernest, by Captain Nares, in honour of the Duke of Edinburgh. Yel- rerton Bay is about 22 miles across, and is nearly 6 miles in depth; it was further splic into inlets by the projecting promontories before mentioned ; and Aldrich was not sure the smaller bays thus formed united inland, thus making two islands. The 1 8th May was their 46th day out, and Aldrich thought it was now time to bring his onward career to a close. They had thus reached the limit of their forward journey, and were now to retrace their steps. We extract the whole entry of the day from the lieutenant's journal. * Thursday, May i8th. — Nine days' provision in sledge. Called cook at 6 A.M. Taking into consideration the state of the crew, and the quantity of provisions remaining, I think it advisable to turn back for the ship to-day. The biscuit remaining is 5 days' full allowance, which with a healthy crew, would be ample, but looking as I must to marches not much better than we have been lately doing, it will have to last 10 days. Have reduced biscuit to half allowance. 'With this in view, I left the tent pitched, and Mann (who is not fit to march, but better than last night) to look after the gear, while with the sledge, cooking-gear, luncheons, pickaxe, &c., the rest of us went on for a half journey to try and reach a place for building a cairn, and get a little more extended view of the coast-line. Under weigh at 9 A.M. A very clear and beautiful day. After seeing Mann com- fortable, and leaving him means of cooking his tea, I followed at 9.25, and soon overtook Doidge and the sergeant limping along several hundred yards in the rere of the sledge. I told them they had better go back, but this they begged off, and continued their painful journey. Overtaking the sledge, I walked ahead up the steady incline, which began about 2 miles from the camp. After walking about 4 miles, I found the cape proved Alert in reality, for I came to the conclusion there was no cape at all, but that the coast-line trended round more to the southward, after clearing Yelverton Bay. The land was covered deeply in snow, and there was no place at all suitable for building a cairn anywhere within reach of the party. I was now about 200 feet above the sea or ice level, and had a very good and careful look all round. No .land was visible, except the coast along whicft we were travelling, my view of which extended about 7 miles farther than where I had come to, the trend being gradually southward and westward. 1 1 ( ": i >^ )'i 92 THE ARCTIC EXt'EDITION OF 1 875-6. ' The line of hummocks was aljout 4 miles off, and appeared to incline slightly to the southward in the distance. The land itself is not high, and there being no cliffs, not a speck bare of snow was visible. The hills sloped gradually from the ice, and the ridge on which we were at the extreme of our journey was a portion of undulating low land attached to the coast, and continuing S.W. with it. ' I turned back and met the sledge. Halted for grog and biscuit. Hoisted Captain Nares' Union Jack, and drank Her Majesty's health. After lunch we sounded, and came to solid ice under 4^ feet of snow, hut from the height and extent of the ridges, I should imagine land lay underneath. ' Looking back on to the bay, I observed a series of ice rollers, two of which we crossed over yesterday.' The latitude of the last place reached was 82" 16' N,, and the longitude 85" 33' W. There was no appearance of land in the north, and the direction of the coast on which they were was to the south. As far as they could judge, nothing was to the north and west, except a sea of hummocks. All was lifeless and drearily solitary ; no stir of animal life, and nothing to relieve the dead monotony of white. In such a position, standing where in all probability no human foot had ever stood before, we can imagine solemn and poetical feelings stirring ^1"» hearts even of the rudest, thus brought face to face with the majesty lod. That our party were destitute of such emotions, we are sure we c;.:i deny; but t'-'e exigencies of their situation left them no time to indulge in them. They were now nearly 270 miles from the ship, and a toilsome journey was before them, sufficient to tax the energies of the strongest, and likely to be doubly harassing in their present the enfeebled condition. Then there was the business of the hour; leader had to make his observations ; and the men employed the few hours at their disposal in the prosaic work of mending their foot- gear. On May 19th the journey homeward began. They endeavoured, of course, to follow the line they had traversed on their route from the ship ; this was necessary, but not conducive to novelty. The deputs had to be visited, and hence the chance was lost of varying the line of travelling through these dreary regions, where the grisly monarch of winter reigns supreme. The provisions were short, and they were now on half allowance of biscuit — a bad prospect for the sick men, as nothing but a generous diet of fresh food could restore them. The bread they had was in a black bag, which gave it a flavour borne readily by the men, seeing that there was no loss from dust, as was the case with the bags in which they had it before. There was no use in repining, however ; m *: CHAI'TKR VI. 93 ircd to f is not :. The were at )W land biscuit, s health, of snow, ine land ,llers, two and the the north, the south, t, except a no stir of white. In a foot had ings stirring |the majesty are sure we no time to le ship, and energies of eir present if the hour ; uployed the their foot- tndeavoured, jute from the le depots had . of travelling [winter reigns 10W on half .lothing but a read they had by the inen, [with the bags ling, however ; the difficulties had to be faced, and our men started for home in better spirits than could well be expected. The 2oth May might seem a fine English summer day, were it not for the tale told by the shady side of the face and nose. Another most unwelcome proof of the difference was afforded by the groaning of the men, pulling heavily through the snow ; this was forced from them by the state of their limbs, stiff and swollen. It was always worst in the morning ; the rest at lunch invigorated them, and the evening journey was got through in comparatively buoyant spirits. To show what some of these poor men had to suffer, we quote from the journal : — ' Good's knee is very painful. Working like a horse, as he does all day, ho creeps into his bag at night, groaning, and after a sleepless night, rouses out in an agony of pain in the morning.' Ayles and Mitchell only remained in good health ; had they succumbed, in all probability half the party would have perished. In spite of their torments, they remembered, on the 22nd Mny, the kind treatment they had experienced on that day twelvemonth, and they drank at night the health of the 'Mayor and Corporation of Portsmouth,' not without an after grimace when they contrasted their present condition with the satisfactory way in which they had spent their anniversary. On the 23rd, after starting his party across Ayles Bay, Aldrich struck inward, to examine the coast a little more closely. He found it steep as usual, with masses of ice here and there, and the snow exceedingly deep. At the foot of Cape Bicknor is a debris of huge masses of stones, extending 100 yards from its base. As the cape is perpendicular, these stones seem to have fallen from it at some former date ; its appearance was in some respects like that of Fair Head in Antrim. The lieutenant endeavoured to cross south of Cape Fanshawe Martin, and so find a short cut into M'Clintock Bay, where he could join his party. He was, however, ' brought up ' by a chasm, with a perpendicular drop of 70 or So feet, the sides consisting of snow and ice. He walked along the side of the ravine tluis formed, its direction being inland, and increasing in altitude, until he found himself about 1000 feet above the level of the sea. Here he had a fine view to the northward ; there Avas no change in its aspect ; nothing except the never-ending hummocks was to be seen. F"inding no prospect of doubling the head of the ravine, ne retraced his steps to the foot of the cape, and overtook his party as they were encamping near it on the east.- On the 24th, part of M'Clintock Bay was crossed, and the camp fixed about two miles from Cape Richards. But some important work had to be done besides the travelling. We have mentioned that no suitable place for a cairn could be found near the extreme point 94 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 87 5-6. 3f r. I attained by the party ; and up to the present they were equally unfor- tunate ; but now the eastern face of Cape Fanshawe Martin seemed adapted for the purpose, Aldrich, Ayles, and Stubbs pushed on in advance, leaving the rest to follow ; but Stubbs was so blown after a ([uarter of a mile, he was desired to wait for the rest. The remainder of the party came struggling up, halting for breath every few minutes, and utterly unable to do anything for some time after they reached the a|)i)ointed place. While they were at work, const'-ucting the cairn, the lieutenant returned to the tent to write out ihe record, of which the following is a copy : — ' This cairn was built by the Challenger sledge crew, detached on an exploring expedition to ib^- westward, from H.M.S. Alert, G. S. Nares, Esq., Captain. No cairn has been erected westward of this, and this does not mark the farthest position attained by the party. The extreme reached is shown in the accompanying chart, as across three more bays, and about 43 miles beyond this cairn. In addition to this sledge expe- dition, a northern division, rmder Commander Markham, is endeavouring to 'orce a way northward over the ice, and H.M.S. Discovery has parties away exploring iihe north coast of Greenland. Challenger is 52 days from the ship, and on the homeward journey. (Here follow the names of the party, the date, and the winter arty.' ;he tempta- gave her lain-brace," ^ear, thence and, and a acco smoke purpose of successfully niles having measure to ter distance id to make, If the crew ■lave suffered before this, can was left ; the tea and biscuit lasted only to this date. Thc" fresh supply from the depot was calculated only for 4 -days ; it was divided so as to last for 7, little more than half the ordinary a'lowance being issued. Th^ remainder of May was spent in plodding on as usual fron\ Cape Alexandra along the coast and across Disraeli liay to Cape Albert Edward. On the joth, Aldrich visited Ward Hunt Island, which he found was composed of small stones — at least if he might judge from the appearance of a ridge about 600 feet in height, which he mounted and found bare of snow at the top. It so nearly resembles Crozier Island in James Ross' Bay, that they seem to have been formed in tlie same way. On Ward Hunt Island, poppy, saxifrage, and small tufts of grass were growing, so that vegetation was not unknown in this high latitude. Trails of hares were seen, but not recent ; probably their visits are later in the season. June opened badly; the provisions were nearly out, the cocoa entirely so, yet they were 25 miles from the next d(;pi')t. The tent was 'fearfully hot 'inside, melting the snov , and producing constant drip- ])ing. Tliere was bad travelling — fo'' tliem ; it would have been more than excellent for Markham's party — 4 r^iles being made good. On the 2nd, the bacon, preserved potatoes, and sugar were exhausted ; only one-third allowance of biscuit was issued ; there was enough of pemmican and rum. The snow was more like sleet, and only 3 miles made good, with constant standing hauls. The state of the party on June 3rd was as follows : — i. The Sergeant Major, bad legs, pain inside, short of breath, and very weak. 2. Stubbs, do. 3. Mann, fairly well ; but bad legs. 4. Good, bad legs, constant exhaustion, and attacks of diarrhaa. 5. Doidge, very bad legs. 6. Mitchell, bad legs, which caused him so much agony, that he had frequently to leave the tent at night and rub them outside, that he might not disturb his sledgc-mates by his groaning. This was entirely his own wish. 7. Ayles, perfectly sound. We need not enter very fully into the details of the rest of the homeward journey; the preceding will give our readers a sufficient idea. On the 5th June, Cape Columbia was again passed ; Aldrich had ho[)ed to be able on his return to ascend Cooper Key, to have the view denied him when he passed it previously ; but, though the day was fine, the state of his men precluded the possibility of delay. Some were really unable to walk, but he was afraid to place anyone on tlie sledge ; the rest would not be able to pull, and once the example was given, he dreaded the results. We forgot to mention *' at on June 12th they got some news of their comrades, from whom they had been so long separated. Giftard had, 96 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. since he parted company, returned to Colan Point, and there placed a depot, and left letters. On the isth James Ross Bay was reached, and they struck straight across to Cape Joseph Henry, thus deviating from the route taken on their outward journey. The travelling was naturally slow, about 4 or J miles on the average ; all struggled manfully on, and the state of the snow and the weather were in general favourable. At last, on the 19th, Aldrich was a little in advance, near View Point, when he heard a shout and the discharge of a gun. It turned out to be Ivieutenant May and a supporting party ; they were most heartily welcome. Some of the poor fellows, though rejoiced at the prospect of relief, and at the ox-cheek and apple-jelly (most acceptable to their sore gums), brought by the new-comers, were so weakened by their sufferings that they gave way to tears. Aldrich learned from this party of the deaths of Porter and Petersen ; it was fortunate he was separated from his own men when the news was told him by May. He dreaded the effect it would have upon his crew, and so warned the relief party to say nothing about it. As they would have to pass Porter's grave on their way to the Alert, he sent one of May's men forward, who removed the cross and mscription. With the help of the supporting party, and of Ci.ptain Feilden and Lieutenant Parr, whom they met nearer the ship, they were not long in completing their journey. They arrived alongside on the 25th June, having been absent 82 days, during which time they travelled 708 miles, examined about 230 miles of coast, most of which had never been visited before. Had they not been disabled by sickness, and had supporting depots been sufficiently advanced, they could have gone much farther, and possibly connected the upper portion of Robeson Channel with the places visited by former explorers. The nature nf the coast line of Grant Land will be understood from the preceding narrative. It consists of a steep shore, with many promontories and peninsulas, and considerable indentations. Tlie cliffs vary in height from 300 to 800 or 1000 feet, and the interior contains many elevated summits. These do not seem to form continuous chains; those farthest to the west were called the Challenger Mountains, after the sledge. Few animals were seen, though from the tracks examined, the coast is evidently visited 1 • hares, oxen, &c. Birds were seen, some flying northwards ; and possibly later in the summer, more evidences of animal life are visible. [ a depot, and they the route Uy slow, on, and ble. ear "View It turned rere most ed at the Lcceptable ikened by . from this ite he was I him by ;\v, and so lid have to May's men eilden and lot long in 1 25th June, 708 miles, lad never sickness, iced, they the upper by former stood from with many tions. The the interior 11 to form called the were seen, visited b ' and possibly )le. CHAPTER VII. THE STAkT — REPULSE HARBOUR — SNOW SLOPES — SCURVY — PREMATURE RETURN OF LIEUTENANT RAWSON — MOUNT FARRAGUT, AND A FULL STOP — THE RETURN — A DISTANT PROSPECT OF THE FAR NORTH — SUFFERINGS OF THE PARTY — MEETING OF RELIEF PARTY — DEATHS OF HAND AND PAUL THE HOSPITAL AT POLARIS BAY — IN THE DRIFT ACROSS ROBESON CHANNEL — THOUGHTS OF HOME — DEPAR- TURE FROM FLOEBERG BEACH STRUGGLING THROUGH THE PACK — MEETING OF THE ALERT AND DISCOVERY — CAPTAIN ALLEN YOUNG AND THE PANDORA — HOME AT LAST — RECEPTION OF THE EXPEDI^ TION — FETES, HONOURS, AND REWARDS — SUMMARY. We must now accompany the eastern sledging party, on whom the duty of exploring the north shore of Greenland devolved. The leader was Lieu- tenant Beaumont of the Discovery. He left Discovery Harbour on the 6th April, with two sledges, the Sir Edward Parry and the Stephenson, accompanied by Dr. Coppinger and 14 men. His instructions were, to proceed to the Alert, and there place himself under the directions of Captain Nares, from whom he was to receive his fnal orders. He reached that vessel on the i6th April, and on the 20th started for his sphere of duty. In addition to the sledges he brought with him from his own ship, two others, the Discovery and the Alert, proceeded with him in the first instance. His final instructions were, to cross Robeson Channel to the north-east coast of Greenland, to point out the positions where depots should be placed, to proceed along the north coast as far as he could, examining its nature, whether it tended in the direction of the Pole, and exploring as far as was possible the inlets which might be found on the Greenland shore. Having advanced as far as his provisions would allow (he had sufficient for 56 days), he was to retrace his steps along the Greenland coast, but was to fall back upon the American depot at Polaris Bay, instead of crossing to the Alert. He was to be accompanied by Lieutenant Rawson as second in command, and by Dr. Coppinger as leader of the supporting party, who, with two sledges, was to turn back after accompanying the main party a certain distance. The following were the crews of the sledges who were to accompany Lieutenants Beaumont and Rawson fot the entire of the journey: — The G '^y I 98 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1875-6. Sir E. Parry Sledge had Alexander Gray, William Jenkins, Wilson Dobing, Peter Craig, James Hand, Charles W, Paul, Frank Jones. The 'Stephenson' Sledge had Jeremiah Rourke, David Laws, George Leggett, James Cooper, John Hodges, Thomas Darke, and Benjamin Wyatt. Some hitches occurred in the journey across Robeson Channel, on account of an accident happening to the sledges ; they found the ice of a hummocky nature, which added to the difficulty of travelling ; it was not, therefore, till the 27th that the Repulse Harbour was reached, and the Union Jack planted on the shores of Greenland by James Hand. On the 28th the Alert sledge was ordered back, and the principal party proceeded. The peculiar difficulties of their route were soon experienced. The proper track would have been along the shore, had it been i)rac- ticable ; but the nature of the ice and the cliffs rendered this impos- sible. The sea close to the coast had then to be selected ; but this road was not much better than that which had to be abandoned. The snow was heaped up against the shore in sloping masses, and through these a path had to be cut or forced. This was very distressing and very slow. On the 4th May, Stanton Cape was reached -, and here Beaumont thought it well to establish a depot, and to send Dr. Coppinger back. This was accordingly done ; and, on the 5th, Beaumont and Rawson advanced with their two sledges. Beyond Cape Stanton was a fine bay surrounded by cliffs ; and the interior of the country was of the usual mountainous character. On the 6th, Hand, after whom the bay was named, complained of stiff legs, and the liniment was used. This was the first symptom of scurvy; but the nature of the sickness and inefficacy of the remedy were alike unknown. On the 8th, however, Beaumont suspected the truth ; Paul, Bryant, and Jenkins complained on tlie 9th ; nothing could be done, except to proceed. On the nth Cape Bryant was reached, with a fine inlet beyond. There Beaumont came to the determination of sending Rawson back with Hand ; he asked any of the other men to say if they believed they had scurvy, in order to send them back likewise ; but all agreed that they were perfectly well. The two officers ascended Mount Wyatt, had a good view of the country, and dien the two parties separated, to the great regret of each. The nth and 12th were spent in crossing St. George's Fiord to Dragon Point, where a deep inlet, with some islands at its entrance, was seen. Looking down this bay, a remarkable cape, which he'named Cape Buttress, was seen in the distance ; beyond, cliffs and mountains ■were visible, which promised a good field for research. But they were fated not to convert the promise into a reality. The snow was very deep, and the travelling exceedingly laborious. The effort to raise the legs CHAPTER VII. kins, Wilson Jones, The orge Leggett, lin Wyatt. Channel, on nd the ice of illing ; it was reached, and ames Hand, rincipal party- experienced, it been i)rac- this impos- ed ; but this loned. The and through tressing and re Beaumont pinger back, and Rawson as a fine bay of the usual the bay was This was id inefficacy r, Beaumont on the 9th ; ilet beyond. )n back with ed they had d that they :, had a good great regret urge's Fiord ts entrance, 1 he "named mountains t they were V was very lise the legs 99 from one foot-track to the next was most exhausting ; the men were nearly all complaining, and the nature of their disease could not be mistaken. Accordingl}', after making a final and vain attempt to reach Mount Farragut or Mount Hooker, on the 2ist May the party had to turn back. Their steps across the bay were painfully retraced, and on the 25th Dragon Point was reached, when Lieutenant Beaumont rounded Mount Windham Hornby, 3700 feet high, from whose summit they had a splendid prospect. In the distance, to the north-east. Mount Hooker partly shut out the view ; but beyond it were seen some bays, islands, and promontories. It is in this direction that a prospect of Success for a future Expedition is to be found. A closer examination of the region beheld by Beaumont from Mount Hornby may reveal an extensive and promising field for research. The condition of the party was now very critical ; nearly all ^vere suffering from the scurvy, Paul being much the worst. For- tunately the Lieutenant and Gray kept up pretty well ; the route out was followed as closely as they could in returning; and on the 12th June, Repulse Harbour was reached, Jenkins and Paul requiring to be carried for the previous week. Here Beaumont determined to make an effort to reach the Alert, by crossing Robeson Channel ; but shortly after leaving the shore, open water was met; he had, therefore, no alternative but to start f(ppinger at [ preserved ;h the dog- aris Bay as f came too with those ledge flags last earthly Coppinger w in com- to procur s exertions Iducks and fresh food. ppinger in icovery on Captain he having rted from rty of six |is power. &c., the ndition ; letter to [the 29th Ink God [raves of |at their the floes tv to the course CHAPTER VII. 101 was most uncertain and devious — sometimes making tor tlie Discovery, at others going down the channel without power to help themselves. But on the nth, after a drift south, they were enabled to reach Cape Baird, where they remained a couple of days, when they again started northward, reaching Bellot Island on the 14th \ and after crossing to Discovery Harbour, to their surprise they saw the Alert as well as their own ship. They were most gladly welcomed by all, having been absent 132 days, during which they travelled 453 miles. Though the range of their exploration in new ground was limited, their sufferings, toils, and dangers were at least on a par with those of the other. We have now to explain how the Alert came to be in Discovery ^) Harbour on the 15th August. When the spring sledging parties from that vessel had returned, it was necessary for Captain Nares to decide upon his future proceedings. Should he remain another winter in his present quarters, resuming operations in the following season, or should he start for home, or at least for the nearest attainable station to the entrance to Smith Sound ? Considering the state of health of his crew, it was likely that next year would find them weaker than they were in 1876, and, consequently, there would be no probability of continuing the work of discovery around the coasts of Greenland or Grinnell Land. As to any fresh attempt through the ice to reach the Pole, it was out of the question. After full deliberation, he deemed it his duty to start on his homeward journey. During July 1876, the ice in Robeson Channel began to break up ; lanes of water were seen in the ice ; a thaw set in, which sent currents nmning down the ravines to the channel, and the pack began to move. On the 31st they succeeded in getting away from their station at Floeberg Beach, where they had been frozen up since the 15th September 1875. They proceeded down the channel towards the winter quarters of the Discovery. But such were the obstacles experienced from the pack, that they only reached their comrades on the nth August, having taken 12 days to travel 60 miles. Here, as we narrated before, they were joined by Beaumont's party, thus rendering unnecessary Captain Nares' determination of crossing for them to Polaris Bay. All were again united, except those four brave men who had left their bones in the Polar wastes, and both vessels started down Kennedy Channel. They experienced the usual difficulties and dangers, continually battling with the pack, making forward whenever there was anything like clear water, and frequently charging the floes, either singly or in company, as occasion required. Their route was nearly the same as on their journey north, and on the loth September lA;xY 'ioro:i!A, D. ^. 102 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 875-6. they reached Cape Victoria. Their path was now tolerably clear to the entrance of Smith Sound, and they did not experience much difliculty in reaching Cape Isabella, where they called for letters. During the r.bsence of the Expedition, Captain Allen Ycung, who had accompanied M'CHntock in his search after the remains of Sir John Franklin, was deputed by the Admiralty to visit Baffin Bay and Smith Sound, to carry away any letters he might find anywhere in the neighbourhood, and to give whatever help he could to the explorers, should he be in a position to do so. He had carried home the last despatches of Captain Nares left at Carey Islands; and in May 1876 he left for his voluntary mission in his yacht Pandora. He cruised about in the north of Baffin Bay, searching every likely place for letters or records, and placing supplies and papers in positions such as would attract attention from any party coming south through Smith Sound. But he saw no signs of the Expedition ; he was afraid of being shut up by the ice for the winter, which would render him useless for the work he undertook to discharge ; ^30 he determined to return to England. When forming this resolution, the Alert and Discovery were not far distant. Captain Nares visited Cape Isabella, and there found some of the letters brought by Young, but the bulk of them had been left at Littleton Island. The Expedition, after crossing Smith Sound, agam recrossed Baffin Bay, arriving at Disco on the 25th September. Here they were received by the Danish authorities with their usual kindness. They took in a fresh supply of coal, and started again to cross the Atlantic. As on their journey out, they experienced severe weather, and the vessels had to part company. On their way they sighted and exchanged signals with the Pandora, and on the 27 th October the Alert arrived off Valentia Island. No communication was possible with Greenland from the time they left it, consequently their arrival was quite unexpected, and, we may say, sent a thrill of surprise and expectation throughout the kingdom. The general results attained by the Expedition were speedily known throughout Europe. It has been an agreeable duty to fill in the outline thus previously sketched. The Discovery went to Queenstown, where it was shortly afterwards joined by the Alert, and both vessels were objects of attraction for the south of Ireland. Captain Nares started almost immediately for London, bringing his own despatches ; he was everywhere received with the greatest enthusiasm. The two vessels soon left Queenstown for Portsmouth ; during their stay in Cork Harbour they had been constantly crowded with visitors, and the officers and crews were most attentive and desirous to explain the nature of the curiosities /I (. Nt m CHAPTER VII. 103 er wards ton for [diately iceived Instown been were iosities (. they had brought home. When leaving, they "-ceived quite an ovation from the vessels in the harbour as well as from the inhabitants ; and their reception at Portsmouth was of an equally enthusiastic character. Both officers and men were feted in every direction ; banquets A'ere given to the former by the Lord Mayor of London, by the Naval College at Greenwich, by the Yacht Clubs at Portsmouth, and by sundry other bodies too numerous to mention. Captain Nares, Captain Stephenson, and Commander Markham read papers before a meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, the Prince of Wales being present ; and at the conclusion of the proceedings, a most cordial vote of thanks to the officers and men composing the Expedition was moved by His Royal Highness, and seconded by the President, Sir Rutherford Alcock. It is unnecessary to say that it was is most enthusiastically passed. But while they were thus received by the general public, they were not forgotten by their own immediate superiors. On the 3rd November the Secretary to the Admiralty, Mr. Robert Hall, in a letter to Admiral *| Elliott, commanding at Portsmouth, expressed at length the Lords I Commissioners' entire approvtil of the conduct of all concerned in the Expedition, the ability displayed by Captain Nares in directing its operations, and the great devotion and bravery evinced by both officers 5 and men in carrying out its object. The following officers were promoted: — Commander Markham to the rank of Captain, and Lieutenants Aldrich, Beaumont, and Parr, to the rank of Commander ; while Sub-Lieutenant Conybeare was made a Lieutenant. Staff-Surgeon Ninnis was made Fleet-Surgeon, and Surgeons Moss and Coppinger were promoted to the rank of Staff-Surgeon. Engineers Cartmel and Wootton were made Chief Engineers, and the services of the other officers and men were favourably noted. Captains Nares and Young received the honour o^ knighthood — a graceful tribute to the merits of the latter in voluntarily ■ undertaking the task of keeping the path open, so as to facilitate the . rtvUrn of the Expedition, or its relief, if necessary. ■ Lastly, .ne following letter was addressed to the First Lord of the Admiralty, by directions of Her Majesty : — ' Dear Mr. Hunt, — I am commanded by the Queen to request that you will ■;| communicate to Captain Nares and the officers and men under his command, Her ,?• Majesty's hearty congratulations on their safe return. ' The Queen highly appreciates the valuable services which have been rendered by them in the late Arctic Expedition, and she fully sympathizes in the hardships and sufferings they have endured, and laments the loss of life which has occurred. The Queen would be glad if her thanks could be duly conveyed to these gallant men for what they have accomplished. ' Yours, very truly, (Signed) ' Henry F. PoNSONBV.' 104 THE ARCTIC EXPEDITION OF 1 875-6. Our summary of the results of the Arctic Expedition of 1875-6 mui necessarily be very brief. The increase in geographical knowledge ha been solid, and especially useful to future explorers. The possibility c utilizing Smith Sound as a passage to the North Pole has been tested and the result is of a negative character. It has been shown that ni open polar sea exists, and that an advance straight across the ice fron the shores of Grinnell Land is impracticable. There is a possibilit) that a further investigation of the land, whether islands, or a part Greenland, seen by Lieutenant Beaumont to the north-east, from Moun Hornby, might lead to interesting discoveries ; whether the obstacle which prevented his advance are quite insurmountable, remains to bt seen. The north shore of Grinnell Land has been carefully exploret for a considerable distance, and its general character ascertained Few traces of either animal or vegetable existence have been found in these high latitudes. A few of the hardiest plants have been found a Ward Hunt Island, and a few of the birds adapted for polar region were seen in the summer flying north, or north-east, probably to tlit lands seen by Beaumont. We should confine our statement to lam animals. We have seen that the sea, even in those eternally ice-boun( regions, swarms with life. But the moral results of the Expedition are far beyond the scientific The heroic constancy displayed by all, both oflftcers and men, in thi midst of the privations and hardships they endured, can only bt faintly indicated in any narrative. It is impossible to say which meri the highest meed of praise — the officers for the never-ceasing can they took of the men entrusted to their command, the sailors anc marines for their never-failing obedience, their patience unde; privations, and the unwearying cheerfulm^ss they displayed ir tending their sick comrades. The journal of every officer, withou exception, is filled with genuine testimony to the ardour and gooc qualities of their men, whose only fault was a disposition to over work themselves in their efforts to advance the objects of tht Expedition. The instructions of the commanders to their officers an models in their way — clear, providing for every difficulty in advance, ful of consideration for the dangers to be undergone, and encouraging ir. a high degree. Altogether, the relations between all, and the faithful devotion they evinced to each other, show plainly that they were picked companies ; that such an expedition was despatched, and was conducted in such an admirable manner, is alike honourable to the Government which originated it, and to the nation which was capable of producing such a band of heroes. -5' ^i ■^"t*; ADVERTISEMENTS. f 1875-6 mu- nowledge ha possibility c 3 been tested lovvn that n the ice fron a possibilit; or a part from Moun the obstacle ;mains to bt illy explore! ascertained en found in 2en found a )olar region 3ably to th( lent to laiK ly ice-bouiK le scientific men, in tht an only bt which meri easing cart sailors anc nee unde; played ir cr, withou and gooc n to over lets of the fficers art vance, ful luraging ir he faithful ere picked conducted vernment producing Dublin Steam Printing Co.. ^h STATIONERS AND ACCOUNT-BOOK MANUFACTURERS, «h* DjlNVITE the attention of Publishers, Authors, ^^ Merchants, and the public generally, to the facilities they can offer for the cheap and expeditious production of every description of Printing and Stationery work, which for general excellence cannot be surpassed. BOOKBINDING OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, Plain, Elegant, and Ornamental. LIBRARIES AND LARGE ORDERS AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. ESTIMATES AND SPECIMENS ON APPLICATION. OFFICES: 94, 96, and 96 MIDDLE ABBEY STREET, ) niiDTTij Factory: 16. 17, & 18 NORTH PEINCE'S STREET, ) ^"^^*^^' LONDON : 10 WARWICK LANE, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. ADVERTISEMENTS. THE COMMERCIAL UNION ASSURANCE COMPANY. FIR K-I^ 1 FE-]?I A It I N E. Capital fully Subscribed Capital Paid-up ...... Life Funds in Special Trust for Life I'olicy Holders oxccod Other Funds exceed ...... £2,600,000. £250,000. 460,000. 700,000. CHIEF OFFICES— 19 & 20 CORNIIILL, LONDON. DiKECTOES: — W. Eciei'Kon Arbntlmot, Escj. EobMt Burohiy, Eaq. ^l■tal•cllly, Levan & Co.) John Bwuatead, Es(i. (I'lico & Jioustcail). W. Middleton Campbell, Esq. (Einlay, Camp- bell & Co.) Jeremiah Colman, E3(i. (J. & J. Colman). Alfred Gilfs, E^q., ^7 Cheat George Sti uct, S.W. Neheraiah QiittitliH, Esq. Samuel Ilrtiison, Esq. Frederick W. Uanis, Esq. (Di.voii & HarrisS Sir Francis Uick^ (Tliomas A: Francis Uicks.) F. Larkworthy, Enq., Hmkof New Zealand. Chailes J. Eoilf, Esq. (Lout', Sons & Co.) AVilliam Loaslc, Esq., 14 Eastchcap. A.J. MundoUa, Esq., M.P. William Nicol. Esq. (.Smith, Fleming & Co.) Hir Uonry AV. I'eek, 13art., M.l'. (Peek Bro- Ihers & Co.) Alexander Robertson, Esq. AlixaiulerSim, Esq. (C'liurchill & Sim). John 1'. Tate, E-iq. Henry Trower, Escj. (Trower & Lawson). Sccrttart/S. Stanley Beown, Esci. FIRE DEPARTMENT. Manager — David CiiniSTii;, Esq. MoDEEATE Rates of Premium, based on an cciuitiiblc sy.'stera of Asscsamont. Ct.atms liberally and i)romptly settled. All Policies are Issued Fiiee of Duty, and no Fees or Stamps arc charged. LIFE DEPARTMENT. Actuary — W. P. Pattison, Esq. ; 3Ianttjcr — T. E. YouNa, Esq. The Life Funds, exceeding £450,000 are set apart by Deed of Settlement and Act of Parliament for the exclu.sive Security of Life Policy Holders, who possess in addition the Security of the General Assets of the Company, exceeding £960,000, and of the uncalled, but fully subscribed capital of £2,250,000. The Expenses of Management are limited by Deed of Settlement to a small percentage on the Premium Income. Thb Second Valuation was made on the 31st December 1872, and while no provision was omitted to make the Reserve as strong as possible, the retiuli>iii|f Bonus was very satisfactory. The Actuary's Report can be obtained on applioation. DUBLIN BRANOH-37 COLLEGE GREEN. District Manager — Michaix Murphy, Jan., Escj. Tl Bl VI . ft-' I %. ADVERTISEMENTS. GLOBE FOREIGN EXPRESS.— GEO. W. WHEATLEY & CO. despatch to the Continent, India, Canada, Mediterranean, Ceylon, China, Japan, Singapore, Java, Australia, 'I'asmania, New Zealand, West Indies, Ccntr.il America, I'iicific, Cape, Brazils, Mauritius, Zanzibar, Clold Coa.it, Madeira, St. Helena, River Plate, United States, Vancouver, Nova .Scotia, IJermuda. General Shippinjj, Passage, B.iggage, Insurance Agents. Lo>fi)ON : 156 Li'.AnnviiAM. Street, and 23 Kkgknt Strekt. Livertooi.: 10 North John Stueet. STEAM.— LONDON to GOTHENBURG.— SWEDISH FLAG REGULAR LINE.— The First-class Steamers, 'Prins Oscar,' 'Carl XV,' ur 'Ai.iiKRT Edward,' leave Millwall Docks every Thursday. Excellent accommodation for Passengers. Fakes :— Saloon, /^^, 3s. ; .Second Cal)in, £2, 2s. ; Deck, £i. W. E. Dorr & Co., Agents, 10 Mark Lane, London, E.C. RUSSOTURKISII WAR. The Handbook in the Present Crisis is ENGLAND'S POLICY IN THE EAST. By Baron Henry De Worms. A Fifth Edition of which is now ready, containing a M.ip of the Seat of War, Two Statistical Tables, showing the population, army, navy, and reserves of all the Powers immediately interested in the Eastern Question, and of the various nationalities and religions of the Turkish Empire. Demy 8vo, 5s. ' Baron Henry de Worms has annexed to the fifth edition of his work, " England's I'ulicy in the East," which is just published, two interesting tables.' — Times, Ma.ch3I. Cjiapman & Hall, 193 Piccadilly, London. email %THE09^?ANiON LIBRARY. MARIA M. GRANT'S POPULAR NOVELS. 2s. each. THE SUN-MAID • • Maria M. Grant. BRIGHT MORNING ■ Maria M. Grant. VICTOR LESOAR . Maria M. Grant. J»RTISTE ■ . . Maria M. Grant. %\i Cainpaiiioii f ikarn Includes most of the Popular Novels of MRS. J. H. RIDDELL. FLORENCE MARRYAT. ANNIE THOMAS. BRET HARTE. HENRY COCKTON. CAPTAIN CHAMIER. SAM SLICK. COLONEL WALMSLEY. List of the Series gratis on application. liondon t PREDERICK WARNE k €0. THE COMPANION LIBRARY. In Crown 8vo, Picture Boards, Two Shillings each. JOSEPH HATTON'S NOVELS. CLYTIE. CHRISTOPHER KENRICK. VALLEY OP POPPIES. TALLANTS OF BARTON. BITTER SWEETS. NOT IN SOCIETY. IN THE LAP OP PORTUNE Uniform with the above^ A HORRID GIRL, By the Author of ' Margaret's Engagement.' Londout FREDERICK WARNE & C0< r- wm ADVERTISEMENTS. ACADEMY, 20 Gardiner's Place, Dublin, JOHN BATES, Principal, ASSISTED BY A MOST EFFICIENT STAFR I Candidates are prepared for the following :— Royal Irish Constahuiary^ Bank of Trelatici, Clerkships itt the Civit Service {Lower Division), Excise, Customs, Solicitors'' Apprentices, College of Surgeons, &*c., &*c. :t I.' I RECENT SUCCESSES. Clerkships in Civil Service. At the last Examination, on I3tli March, one-third of the successful Candidates from Ireland were from this Academy. Messrs. Chidley, Kidd^ Tinsley, Douglas, Drea, Gartlan, Lynch, Hill, Beatty, Crowley, &c. J^ank of Ireland Competitions. At the last Examination, Mr. Rogers look the First Place, Mr. Carew, third place ; and Messrs. Robertson, Ward, Wrightson, Little, and Leeds, were also successful. Royal Irish Constabulary. During the last ten years more than eighty per cent, of the successful Candidate* •were pupils of this Academy. Attorneys' Apprentices. At the last Examinations, Messrs. Higgins, Archdall, Monsarratt, Maxwell^ Cahill, Kenny, were successful on first trial. £xcise, Customs, &c. Several hundred pupils have already sticceeded at these Examinations, including last Excise Examination, January. Messrs. Veale, Flynn, Watt, Drennan^ Tiemey, Clancy, &c. % r f % blin. •1, rAFR f/ic Civit 'itices, successful rew, third were also andidates^ Maxwell^ 1 ^i4 m including )rennan^ .^* TW^Tf^ ..uWW«'"!F-«i*'.i|-(i,ipin It,* "- 5? i ■^1 m '^■•^'^"•i^itlli nil I , UM* massmsen mmi \'#i- Hi m \i JOHNSTON'S CIVIL SERVIGE SERIES. „ • !, . V ThhcKii^fit m one thuk vohtme^ 532 pp., 6s. 'f^it The OompetttiYO Geography; being an exhaurtivc ttfeaHwe on, the ' \' s- Ci?W»P^y of tile whale wo«4i cooipiied for advancad cksaes, and candidates fpc '•' ■-' tii*lftjmy; pril Sarvi-ce, Ac ^ ^_-;:- ,■ '^ .'■.'• •r'i^ft eialaim »kjiT^ic «m« of i ssiurbCtrauOio*" is «oeonUiice with th« frtjwflt JRMtq of ,|}iiiMP> 11; Axzttsr and diyil SecTloe (luide. Containing quejaootjivep jjt V the Open Cott.psHtious, Clas?'?". I. and II. Civil ScrVic , First AjH^tinM''^^ J? Woohbch, F?^; m The Cwyil Semce Antmneqc^ ^uitcdiBc advaiiced:iclip%CiviL Pi>a<»CiUjdidite«^&c.o^ii^Exrmiilatibntape«s, - ■ ^ " ^^ "" '.: , 0^6 -tfhft ai«9ter? th^ bcbk will have t\.t fear* of an M^(l)du^c pnfiT.'*-^S4>i4tH'i^^Xittfrin'. ^ - Sixth Edition, corrected to dateiy.6d.)c'*^' "^ t; !^ 0|vir SetviCT Guide. Containing fall partitulars. of every Govern- meht O^oe^ jEx&mmation P.pers^ Regulations as to Men and B^ Clerkships, Writtrsnips, Salaries, and other usef il information for intending cbff|||titors. ' "A compLte rnd oompepdious Dicticiiary to the Civil Trrvice. Tbeutit '» aiaply (^evdbpei.iii th« ^tTMrlc, and o-cry parti -uhr required by Intending candidates is funud ocT iu the most enKcit fam." — Edmeatuma'. Rtporitr. «• " The design of the book is so goo< I, the' the author will coofer an csMmti»l r rvice oa the linag A,:0 ■\'^:- -.*•*■ -•?"■ ?) ^t ., yotith of the country if he can perfect aud cai y it o it" -Atketutum. ,> Fifth Edition, tahri'd, y. 6d. . ' '■' '^' T' -STi. H IV. TJie Oivil Service Pr^is, with exercises on Indexing, Summiffituig, ir?^ and Digesting Returns into Sumnuuies. "" . ■■ "^ " TV e commend this little book as a valuable aid to the staff officer In ncquiring atiabit «^r«e onid«|if - latioD i csji.lidatos, course of promotion, and o .h'T r>'CADl« Information. Third B.d'tiontAroi'Jn '.2>/to. 3J. o d. -v ' ^ ! J^H. English Composition and Essay-WriJng' *ithb*ft^ |^ tionsTor forming essays, and coatainiug several themes b}' succ^ss^ cai^idatM. '\ Third Ediiiott, is, 6d. •j'^ Vin. The Competitive British Gaography, with detailed dE;scrii>- tionsof the Couni. -,3p'tK> United Kiiij?dnm» &c.', &c ; » . , ,'^ ' KecrJly i:suid. Is. j^uk '■^ISL Qxdde foi (Miiloms' Oaudldat'^s, vnth Hints «j|%iaking up '' the subjects. Examination Pap«r«, Salaries, &c. Sec :^ "Candidates wiU£nd all requisite information end many useful Hints andbuggr^iq^ A\t osscTvaoc* of which wUl greatly coctribute to secun ci r:^«u,"—GUug»*> Htrttd, " Capital of iu \asAP-~EdMatumal Timet. Ninth Edition, \ilpp., is. yL ."', X, The Civil Service Spelling-Book, ContaJni;jg?^jk^^«ls likely f^, to be misspelled, with Dictation and Orthographical E)x^'i!N!»> v.^i., , " " Extremely serviceable."— Miw«<«pUm £!yn$'iig Nen*. ■.} ■•?*?%f ^ ^ ^ .^ ' \jf' Edurth Entitior:, xs. . '■ "H'-'i'^ '^^ : XI. OivJl Service .'ots, or gejifstrg.tia Ad.'*itidn, nsii^ ji>y atappst all candidates for Government r.ppointiBUi. *;. , , J"''^^' " Eaidy ik oS*^^\^^l !■ 'Xi,':ipj\, Is. \ :" ".:•' ' •» ** xn. Elementary Competitive uec^i^ aj^y*/ ;tiitei.u4dj,l»r md'.- I .. * nnry schools, and those requiring a brief C?eograph!t'>l cM i*4 ' .""**' • lately PuS^sied, pr:rf 2\ 6d.' ""-^ W* ^Xin. Copying Manuscript, Specimens of; ^wingiji rhliection of Lett --iii as given by the Exanuners ^l^he cai|'|idate« to decider, M^ ■-H LONDON I LONGMANS a^#|,,^^Tii,RN0STER kOW. ~-rw :r: _lAi&_,