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1 2 3

4 5 6

%Ui >./

I^CUuts-^ -5 C^tJx^^

U^tU'

WHAT I DID IN "THE LONG."

JOURNALS HOME

DURING A

TOUR THROUriH THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA.

IN THE

LONG VACATION OF 1881,

HARRY SCOTT BARTON,

B. N. C, OXFORD.

(For Private Circulation only.)

• • e •!

• * ■ * I

476008

CONTENTS.

JOURNAL 1.

Outward Bound

JOURNAL n.

Far Rockaway — Saratoga

JOURNAL in.

Lakk George — Burlington

JOURNAL IV.

Boston — Newport

JOURNAL V.

White Mountains

JOURNAL VI.

White Mountains (coiitinnedJ—QvEBEC ...

JOURNAL VII.

St. Lawrence — Chicoutina

JOURNAL VIII.

Gold Mines of Chaudiere Valley

JOURNAL IX.

Montreal — Ottawa

JOURNAL X.

One Thousand Isles— Alexandria Bay— Cape St. Vincent—
Oswego— Falls of Niagara

JOURNAL XI.

Toronto— Port Sarnia— Lakes Huron and Superior—
St. Paul— Minneapolis— Chicago ...

JOURNAL XII.

Chicago (coi:tiiiited)—LovisviLLE— Mammoth Caves— Cincin-
nati— New York— Homeward Bound

page.

37
45

51
62

The readers of the following pages will kin u

-n. .. ,.„„ ,,„,,.^^, ^„^ ^^ J- ' J..S fan,,,,, .„ _,

were „„ „o,e ,..„„,„ „, .,,„ J^'^ ^—-on and s,„e

r ^^ :-----■- par. „:;::x^^^^^^^^^

George Guest.er. Henri fohnston .n . . ^ ' •'°'^'

jonnston. and your humble servant.

HARRY SCOTT BARTON.

JOURNAL I

Cnnard Steam S/iip, " Scytliia

July 16th. — Went on board tender at 12 o'clock, \vei,t,'licd anchor about 1.15.
We watched our family on the tender till r.40, then, havini,^ lost sij^dit of
them, went below, put our cabins in order, and spent the rest of the afternoon
till 4 o'clock reading', &c., at which hour we retired below for dinner; after
which remained on deck till TI.15., havint; written a few letters to be posted
at Queenstown, which we made about 8.30 the followinj^' mornin*;.

Sunday, 17th. We had not a favourable impression of this lovely harbour
as there was a bit of a mist, which ujrew very thick about lo o'clock, however,
it kindly lifted a little about 11.30 when we went ashore, and havin.if i^ot hold
of a jaunting car, took a jaunt into the country (after jiosting our^letlers and
scndin<; off a telej^ram) to a Mr. Smith Barry's place, a lovely place, but
very much ne,L,dected as the owner never lives there. Ilavins; returned to
Queenstown we lunched and went to the landing ^stage, having been told that
the tender would leave at 2 o'clock ; on our way we were beset by endless
^ vendors of various goods, (matches, sticks, fruit, &c., c'vrc.,) while others tried
to get our money without anything in return, but the "blessings of God
Almighty" and wishes for a safe journey, Sec, &c., all of wliich we turned a
deaf ear to, until B. H. B. at last parted with a shilling in exchange for a very
pretty lace tie, after a girl had badgered us for about a (puirter of an hour,
telling us she was sure there were plenty of young ladies we would like to give
them to, &c. ; not content however with what she had forced upon us she
tried to make us take more, so I told her we would give her the basket in
which we had bought some strawberries for another tie, which she very
willingly did. The tender at last started at 2.35, and in a few minutes we
were alongside of the " Scythia " which had already got under weigh and was
steaming slowly out of the harbour. Soon after we had landed the fog lifted
and we saw Queenstown harbour beautifully— it is a lovely little land-locked
harbour, I forgot to say that on Saturday there had been no motion what-
ever on board, and it was not until about 6 o'clock on Sunday that we began
to feel any motion, and even then it was scarcely perceptible. Soon after
leaving Queenstown we got into a nasty damp fog, and as there was no

attraction on deck we turned into our berths soon after lo o'clock. The
Cajitaiii told B. H. B. that July and Auf^'ust arc the months in which there
is most foj^'. The hours of meals on hoard are, Brccdxlast S.30 to lu; Lunch
I to 2 ; Dinner 6 o'clock ; and Supper g to 10.

Monday, 18th. — The Iol; has cleared off a hit and the sun comes out
occasionally, there was more motion about the boat which ^^^radually increased
as the day wore on ; we passed throu^^di a shoal of jiorpoises in the afternoon,
and for some time there were three or four playing' about in front o( the bows
of the shij), .ind it looked as if tluymust be smashed ; it was awlully amusinj^'
to watch them dart aloni^ and tlum jump rii;lu out of the water, it is
marvellous the pace they <;o. Gcor<;e and I spent a j^'ood lonj; time in the
Cajitain's cabin which had been lent to the Duncans for the voyaj^e ; we had
our first "cocktail" which is made as follows, as far as I could see, some
red ii(|Uor was put into a tumbler with iced water, and then Mr. I), cut the
skin of a lemon and just wetted the rim of the wine Ljlasses which he then
dipped into pounded sufjjar, sprinkled the j^dasses with some bitters, then fdlcd
the glasses with the mixture in the tumbler " et puis voila," not bad tipple,
but I shouldn't care to j^^et screwed off it. This is rather a poor description
of it, but I dare say I'll know more about it in three months' time. In
course of conversation I found that Mrs. D. had had a son at VVarre's at
Eton. Before leavini; the cabin I made myself useful by holdinj; Mrs. D's
wool while she wound it. The evenini^ was not over fine and the other three
turned into bed about 10 o'clock, and I followed about half-an-hour after, but
not before I had found out the rin<^an<; of the " bells" which is as follows: —
the watch is chani^^ed every four hours, and in that time the bells are rung
eight times, i.e. every half-hour, so that (supposing we begin at S o'clock,)
8.30 is one bell, 9 o'clock two bells, &c., till 12 o'clock which is eight bells,
then 12.30 again begins one bell, &c. I have not yet quite fathomed the
mysteries of " the log."

Tuesday, 19tll. — A glorious morning but decidedly more motion. The
sea looked glorious when I went on deck at 8 o'clock, a lovel}- deep blue, and
white horses in abundance. We had the "fiddles" on the tables to prevent
the plates slipping off. Just before we went down to breakfast there was a
rare big wave over the fore part of the ship, a regular swamper. There were
not very many at lunch, B. II. B. was a missing link in our party — as indeed
he had been for the two previous meals. Nothing exciting happened during
the rest of the day. The dining saloon was only about half full at dinner,
and Henri, although not actually ill, thought "discretion the better part of
valour." When we went up on deck however, after dinner, the invalids were
very fit, and we amused ourselves guessing (or rather trying to guess) riddles
which Miss D. gave us. We also got into conversation with Francis Francis,
** The Times " correspondent. He had been through part of the Zulu war,
and knew a Barton out there — but not Bob, as far as we could make out ; he
had also been through Japan, and in the Turco-Russian war. The sea had

been calming; dcnvii all clay, and by the evening' was oniv about Iiall as lou^li
as it had been fust thin;,' in the morning, when there was decidedly a
" steady breeze." The ni^dit was very dark, and the foam on the sea looked
lovely, so that it was past ii before ]ov and 1 tuiiiud in. I ha\(> not yet
made any remark upon the passen^'crs, about whom there is nothin;^ ver)'
favourable to say, so I will merely say that they ari' chiell)- a very second

rate lot. Then- is a poor Dr. and his little f,'irl (a French Pole)

who seems a very nice fellow, but the poor man is overcome with ^Mief by
the death of his wife. Besides him, as far as we have seen at present, there
reall}' arc no nice jieople on boanl, except the Duncans ami Sir B. Cuiiard,
the latter is, I believe, engaged to Miss D.

Wednesday, 20th. — A nasty damp foggy morning but sea very calm,
only the regular Atlantic swell. We were all at breakfast again, and I think
all managed to make a very fair meal, (ieorge came down now looking cjuite
the swell, ha\ing paid a visit to the barber — not before it was needtnl — and

I am now about to follow suit. As to B. II. B ! ! he has most

indubitaljly "got 'em all on." My \isit was most satisfactory as the barber
shaves beautifully. In the afternoon, B. II. B. and I played that aristocratic
game of " pitch farthing ! " at which I won a lot. A nasty fog came on in the
evening, and about lO o'clock it became very thick and the fog whistle started.
There was a glorious sunset, and the wind has been almost dead against us
the whole day, but the sea calm. Before turning in at i 1.30, Joe and I went
and stood right forward for a long time when we passed through a lot of
shoals of fish which looked very curious by night, as the phosphorescent
light on them looked very curious, they looked like huge long eels,
and the general effect was very like those rockets which burst when in
the air.

Thursday, 21st.— Sea about the same, fog still as thick as last night,
and fog whistle still going, joe has announced his intention of getting
shaved. Wind still almost dead against us. Wilson (the Purser) tells Joe they
have had bad winds almost every passage this year both ways. Head wind
and fog continued all day, passcnl through a shoal of jiorpoises in th.c after-
noon, and also through a lot of seaweed just before dinner. We got into
conversation with a Mr. Shaw, an Englishman, a very nice gentlemanly sort
of fellow, and a very keen sportsman, haxing shot in pretty nearly every
country; he knows Sir Victor Brooke very well. He is now going out to
shoot in the Rocky Mountains, where he expects to find chiefiy stags of two
or three kinds, the wapiti being the finest of the lot, also antelope and a kind
of roedeer, as well as the Rocky Mountain sheep, a fine animal, which stands
about 12 hands high (measuring at the shoulder) and huge horns curling
back over the back of the head. The shooting however is not what it used
to be, as they have been very much shot down. When we came out of dinner
we found it pouring hard, so, after spending a wretched evening, turned into
bed early.

i I

Friday, 22lld. — A fine morning with a very calm sea. Fine all day and
a li^lorious st.irli^'ht evening,'. Saw some porpoises in the afternoon, and spent
the latter part of tlu; evening singing in the Captain's cabin.

Saturday, 23rd. — A beastly foggy, rainy morning, and sea very rough.
However, as tluMc was nothing to be done, I made myself as waterproof as
possible and read ; the sea kept getting up pretty well all the mornmg, and
about J. 30 we had a very sharp scjuall, which however lasted only about a
quarter of an hour, during which time however we got pretty well washed, as
the wind k(!pt blowing the spray all over us. VVe were under sail when the
scpiall came on, but we had to shorten very soon as we kept heeling over
awfully, one lime the fore part of the ship must have been ij feet or 2 feet
deep in water as a huge wave came washing over us There was an awfully
amusing sight when the sfjuall was at its liighest, when a monstrous wave
heeled us over, about six or eight people, who were sitting down, all went
rolling over, hugger mugger, all of a heap ; it was an awfully comical sight
for the spectators, not so I expect for the "actors." Cunard (who has been
across 28 times) says he does not remember ever having seen it rougher than
it was just for that (juarter of an hour. The sea however went down very
quickly, and by 7 o'clock there was no wind Init a long lollopping swell.
It was a grand sight while it lasted, and I would not have missed it for
anything, it gives us a faint (but very faint) idea of what a real hurricane or
monsoon, &.c. must be. The evening was beastly, fog and rain, so we turned
in soon after 10. Just before the squall caught us we passed quite close to
a vessel scudding before the wind.

Sunday, 24th. — A finer morning, but still the long heavy swell (which
has a good deal to say for, I expect, this almost illegible writing of Friday and
Saturday). Now for a shave! Weather continued fine all day. There was
divine service at 10.30. We passed a great many vessels during the day.
After dinner we were attracted forward by hearing the emigrants singing, and
when we got there found that it was a service going on, after a few prayers
one of the emigrants stood up and addressed the multitude. It was a fine
night, although very dark, so Joe and I did not turn in till 11.30. We
certainly have not had either favourable weather, or (with few exceptions)
interesting passengers.

Monday, 25t]l. — A glorious morning, and glorious all day. George and
I played "pitch farthing" with Mr. D., and afterwards an American joined
in, who eventually cleared us all out. In the afternoon there was great
excitement, as there was a black fin-like thing seen sticking up out of the
water, which the knowing ones say is a shark, so I can now say I've seen a
shark ! We passed a lot of vessels during the day, but none very close.
During dinner we took our pilot on board ; fancy their coming out such a
long way, they prefer taking steamers in to sailing vessels, and will very often
pretend not to see the latter, as of course they take much longer going in and

joined

great

of the

seen a

close.

such a

y often

in and

do not draw so much water (the pilots arc paid according to the number of
feet a vessel draws), and when they take any vessel into harbour they are
bound to take her out again, so of course tiiese steamers jiay them best. I
don't think I have made any mention of the Lawrences, a Mr. and Mrs. and
three little brats, I have not personally spoken to them very much, but they
are with the Duncan's a good deal, and seem very nice pcojile. Mrs. L. told
George she hopes we would go and see her when we go to Hoston.

The night was glorious ancl wc did not turn in till 1 1.45. I guess this will be
the winding up of my " log letters " on board the " Scythia." You must
excuse me if I write some things which don't interest you a bit, but as this is
my diary as well as letter you must excuse me, though they may not interest
you, they are things which I dcm't wish to forget. I hope we shall catch the
return boat to morrow, for the present — Adios !

II. S. B.

-^L^'

I mi 1 1 .ii)iawjww<ii

JOURNAL II.

Tuesday, 26tla.. A line day, but nothing worthy of note happened. We
passed a lot of shipping, and whilst down at dinner the first land was sighted,
and by the time we got on deck again there was a glorious sunset, and we
saw the lights on the land (|uite well; at Q.30 we dropped anchor in "the
narrows," i.e. the mouth of the Hudson river, where wc lay all night and
weighed anchor next morning (Wednesday, 2 7tli) about 6.45, and got to New
York at 8.15 a.m., where we landed straight off the boat on to the Cunard
Line's wharf. We were unluckily unable to see the harbour of New York,
as we did not wake till some time past 6. Mr. Jackson (the Johnston's
agent) was there to meet us, and soon after Ernest and Pierre La Montagne
came down. The luggage arrangements are very good, there are all the
letters of the alphabet put up at a certain distance apart, and all the luggage
is put opposite them according to the names, c.f:^. ours was put opposite B,
George's opposite G., &c. They arc pretty strict about customs, we had to
open every smgle thing, and they really looked into them. We got away
about 9 o'clock and went straight to L's house, where we left our things, and
then round to the Club where we had a most deliglitful Turkish bath ; after
which we went and refreshed the inner man at Delmonico's, then back to the
house where we put together the things we wished to take into the country,
which done, we went " down town " by the elevated railway to L's office
where we found father L. and two more sons, Rene and Maurice ; after sitting
there for a bnt we took the 4 o'clock "^rain dcnvn to their C(nmtry place, at Far
Rockaway, on Long Island, which we reached about 5.30, and found Madame
and Miss L. and Madame L's sister, and also the other two boys, Edward
and All)ert. We were also introduced to Madame Ernest L., who is very
pretty, we then went down to the sea (or rather an inlet of the sea) and had a
swim, and came up to dinner, and soon afterwards turned in, and so ended
our first day on American soil, and (especially as my opinions have not been
at all altered at present) I will give you my first impression of New York,
which is summed up in two words, " horribly disappointed." I expected to
find a fine town, with decent streets and fine buildings, instead of villanously
bad streets and \(.-ry dirt\ looking buildings ; well, yes, there are some fine
buildings, but the private houses are \ery measly looking, the streets are
certainly pretty broad ; but what with the telegraph wires, which are just like a
cobweb, and trams, I certainly was not favcnirably impressed with the
mighty New York. This is my hrst impression, but whether it will be
altered or not remains to be seen.

Thursday, 28th. — Having got together the most disreputable clothes
possible^ we four went out with Reno and Albert in the former's little sailing

boat, with the intent to catch blue fish, but, unluckily for us, the iish ivcre
blue, and not at all ^'reen, and so <;ave us no chance of making their
accjuaintance ; but we had a most deli,i;htful sail, and did not recross the bar
till 3 o'clock, havinjT started at lo a.m. The bar was pretty rous^h when we
came back ; however we were well steered, and j;ot in (juile dry, whereas the
boat in front of us i^ot a rare duckin<^^ Kcnd did not like going in empty
handed, so we hailed a boat and bought four fish — line fellows, about lo or
12 lbs. each. We fished by towing along a bit of lead about 4 inches
long and li inch broad, with a hook at the end of it. The fish mistake these
bits of lead for their smaller kind, or don't, as the case may be ; unluckily
in our case it was the latter. After we had crossed the bar we sailed up to
Longbeach Hotel, — a huge hotel on a strip of land separated from Long
Island b}' the sea and swamp. There are two or three of these hotels off
Long Island. They are got up by companies, and people go down there
from New ^'ork, but what they find to do I can't make out. One company
lately started to build an hotel nearly a quarter of a mile long! Mr. L. told
us. They built it, but have not money enough to carry it on. That will
give an idea of the size; of some f)f these hotels, although of course they are
not all that sizf. People were rather astonished at our gets up, and certainly
we did look awful roughs. We started back about 5 o'clock, and got in
about 6 o'clock, having run aground on the sands about six times on our
way. We then had dinner, and afterwards went to a Mrs. Dickeson's for
fireworks, and afterwards there was some dancing. I was introduced to one
young lady who danced fairly well ; but oh the serpenting ! — they dance
three steps and then reverse or go backwards. We left at 12 o'clock, having
all had enou<di.

Friday, 29tll. — We went and had a bathe in the sea (not the inlet as
before) ; the party consisted of Mrs. Rene, Miss L., and Maarice. There
were some good breakers, but the tide was running out very strong, and one
time I had (]uite a job to get back. We spent the rest of the day in
preparing for the dance which had been got up in our honour. There were
about 45 people there, and a piano and violin were the instruments. They
were very good about introducing us, but I cannot say I was struck with the
dancing. They dance the trois temps, but at the same time hop all over
the shoj>. Their Lancers are somewhat different to ours. I can't say much
about their habits now, as I have an awful lot to write up, bat will do so
another time. There was a slight supper, but very good, about 11.30, and
everyone was gone by soon after 12.

Saturday, 30tll. — Went to town, and put up our traps which we want
for our Canada trip. Came down with Ernest, who took us to some pigeon
shooting, and in the evening we had a very pleasant dinner. We were asked
for 7 o'clock dinner, but did not get there till 7.30, as we did not leave the
pigeon ground till 6.30, and then did not get dinner till about 8.30, and it
was 11.30 before we had done.

'> It

511

Sunday, 81st. — Went to church in tlic morning, after which went and
saw some new kennels they are getting up, as they have a (bag fox) hunt
here, and also saw where they are going to have their steeplechase in
October. The rest of the day we did nothing much.

Monday, August 1st. — Left Rockaway by 6.55 train, reaching New
York at 8.15, where a carriage took us to the house, where we picked up our
traps, and off to the steamer, on the Hudson River, which left at 9.30.
There was a bit of a mist at starting, but it soon lifted, and we had a real
warmer ! Wc went down to breakfast when we started, and by the time
we came on deck the country was very pretty — at first on the left there was
a perpendicular wall of rock, but soon after the country opened, and we
could see some way round, it certainly was glorious — licks the Rhine into a
cocked hat. My attempt at description of the scenery would give you not
the faintest idea of what it is like, so I will not waste time and paper, all I
can say is, that it beats any rivcy scenery I ever saw as yet. The most
splendid part lasts for about two hours, which they call "the Highlands;"
after that it gets less hilly, but is still very lovely ; and really the variety of
scenery is wonderful, the last i^ or 2 hours, however, is very monotonous.
We reached Albany about 6.15, where we took the "cars" for Saratoga,
which we reached about 8.15, and betook ourselves to the United States
Hotel — a regular enormous American hotel, of which you can have no idea
until you have seen them. I will here tell you of the American " check
system " of luggage, which is certainly very handy. Instead of pasting a
label on your luggage they tie a brass " check" on, and also give you one
to keep. Just before arriving at your destination they come round and ask
what hotel you are going to, give you a ptcce of paper in exchange for the
check, and when you get to the station you have only to go to your
hotel, where your luggage soon follows. After a slight repast, we turned
into bed.

Tuesday, 2nd. — We were not up very early, and it was past 1 1 before
we had done breakfast, so we strolled out to the race course, which is about
one mile out of the town. We got there just in time to see the first race.
It was grand to see the chap trying to start them, he wanted to get them
all into line just like human l)eings ; they must have been a quarter of an hour
or 20 minutes at least trying to start them. Meanwhile the spectators got
impatient, and began to stamp, and clap, and hiss, ad. lib. The course is
sand instead of grass, and so when they did get off there was a cloud of dust
round them. There was not that awful betting row, as the " ring " was
quite outside, and each bookmaker had his stand and a slate on which were
written the names of the horses, and the odds are written opposite them, so
there is no row whatever. The second race was a mile and three-quarters,
but, as far as I can remember, did not take quite so long starting, and was
a very close race. But the third race was the amusing one ; they were
certainly over half an hour starting it, and the starter was in an awful rage,

t -

got

and kept swearing he'd " suspend the whole lot of you, if you don't go
further back," at which there was a general roar, and clapping, and stamping,
and hissing. The jockeys were just like bags of potatoes tied on to their
horses, and one little nigger jock had the reins twisted round his wrists, and
held on to them like grim death — for fear he'd fall off, I suppose. But I
must cut my description short, or I shall never have finished. The last race
was a steeplechase, and the only jump I or anybody else could not have
jumped on our legs was the brook, which really was a decent jump, but the
others were simply laughable, one wall was i \ or 2 feet at most ! But the
corners they turned were really awfully sharp, though the pace was not
tremendous, so they had plenty of time to turn. The course (steeplechase)
is a perfect maze, as they go winding about all over the place. The length
of the enclosed space is about half to threc-cjuarters of a mile, and in that
space (the breadth is about a ([uarter of a mile) they have 32 jumps (?) and
the length of the race is about three miles I should think. Well, they took
three hours for four races, though the last was a very tame start, as there
were only four. Now I really must stop my account of these races, but not
before I tell you they go on every day all through July and August. In the
afternc .a we drove out to the Geyser and \'ichy Springs, which are both
exceedingly nasty. After tasting them, we settled to walk back, and went up
to an adjoining eminence, from where we saw the most loveh' sunset I evey
saw. The colouring was marvellous, and we stood and watched it till all the
effect was gone, and we then walked back (about two miles) arriving here
about 8.30. Had some food, and went to hear the band in the Congress
Park; we also heard a she "squealer" squealing "A little summer shower."
So much for our first day at Saratoga.

Wednesday, 3rd (AI. F. B.'s Birthday).— We started with a pull at
the Congress Spring, which was a little less nasty than the other two we had
tasted, then back to breakfast, and afterwards Joe, C, and self went and
presented a letter of introduction from Mr. L. to Judge Brady, who was
staying at the Grand Union. We asked for him at the hotel, and were told
he was out on the piazza listening to the band. His dress was described to
us, so we soon found him with his wife and daughter (a girl of fifteen).
They seem very nice people, and we sat and talked for some time, and then
they took us to see their L, T. court, which they have put down in the
garden of the hotel. They asked us to go and play there this afternoon,
which we said we should be very happy to do, though I expect it will be a
funny game, as the court (which is very much under size) is marked out
with little bits of tape running in different directions — a crop of grass which
would have done father's heart good to have seen on his meadows this year;
and, in order to make sure of playing in the cool, there is a nice tree in each
court. I shall certainly write to " The Field " when I get back, and advise
them to adopt the style in England : it would be so much pleasanter to play
in the shade ; don't you think so ? Besides, it would be such fun taking
shots at the tree.

:l|
i I

i;;ni

In course of conversation, the Judge happened to mention the name
of a CharHe Clynch who is staying in the hotel, who turns out to be
an old Bordeaux friend of George's. After a little more talky-talky, we
returned to our hotel, where we found Henri had been making the
accjuaintance of a Madame Neuvil, to whom he had a letter of introduction.
We then wrote till 2.45, when we, went and had some food, and Joe, G., and
I took a carriage (two horses), and drove ourselves over to Saratoga Lake,
about four miles out. Poor H.J. was unable to come, as he was wild with
toothache. We started about 3.40 and got to the lake about 4 o'clock, we
saw a notice to the effect that a steamer went to the other end of the lake
at 4.30, so we decided to take that, however on our way down we saw a
sailing boat, thinking it would be preferable to the steamer, Joe suggested
our taking it, so we went and asked Mr. Moon if we might have it, and to
the question "I suppose you know how to manage her" we boldly answered
(though I fear with a slight deviation from the truth) "oh dear yes"!
accordingly old M. sends a boy to " fix us out " and we started with a fresh
breeze blowing right in our teeth, however nothing daunted, Joe lays hold of
the tiller and off we go, but not ([uitc in the direction we wished, for instead
of standing out to sea, the silly thing jibbed and refused to obey either whip
or spur, and we as near as possible ran back on to shore, when suddenly
she went about and we started off on the other tack, but only to run into a
sort of landing stage where they were building a steamer ; she absolutely
refused to leave this until we got shoved off, and then somehow (but I dont
know /W(C') we got out and then got on somewhat slowly as the wind had
dropped pretty co/zsiderably ; but nc\ertheless we \\ere indubitably moving,
but somehow she would not go on the starboard tack, and so we had to let
the disagreeable thing have her way and keep edging along on the other
tack ; we had great discussions as to whether we ought to keep our sheets
tight or slack. However on we went, slowly but surely, gradually we went
slower and slower until we scarcely moved, and we came to the conclusion
that we were becalmed in the middle of the lake, about ij miles from our
starting place ; so I had to get out our one and only scull and scull from
behind (sea fashion, i.e. by turning the scull from side to side), we had gone a
little way like this when we saw the steam launch coming to tow us in, and
so ended our eventful sail on the Lake of Saratoga. I forgot to say that the
stupid boat had not the sense to turn herself when we wanted to go on a
different tack, and we had to shove her head round with the scull. Not
content with being on the lake we thought we must go into it, so we went up
to the house and asked where we could bathe, and they told us to go out to
a point of land about one mile distant, but they had no towels ; however we
said " blow the <^^wels, w'e'll dry without them," so off we started ; but to make
it clearer I'll little ground plan.

A The House.

B The Bridge.

C The Bathing Place.

D Point where we discovered our mistake.

We left the house and went round over the bridge, and round by the road to
the point C, where we had to wade for about 30 yards before we got into deep
water enough to swim. We dried ourselves by rubbing ourselves, and then
set off home, but as it was then 7.40, and our dinner was ordered for 7.30, we
thought, instead of going round by the road we would make straight for the
bridge f however, if we did, we only found ourselves at the point D, and had
to strike across through an awful thick wood, and we found we were surnjunded
evjry where by a beastly bog and awfully thick underwood to get through ;
however, we Houndered on and on, getting awfully wet and hot, and getting
into worse and worse going as we got on ; however, on we scrambled as best
we could, and at last got the road, and got back to the house at 8.30, in an
awful state, and an hour late for our dinner ; however, our ardour was not
damped, and we agreed we would not forget Minnie's 25th birthdax' in a hurry.
When we got well out of the wood George told us a serpent had passed
between him and me when we were in the l)og ! Mr. Duncan had told us to
order bass (a kind of fish), and owls! for our dinner. This we accordingly
did, and they certainly were very good, and with the former we had potatoes
done up most deliciously. It is a " specialite " of Moon's, and is excellent.
The owls are really young game which are not allowed to be shot, but they
are shot, and as they don't like to call it game openly, they call them owls.
These two courses, with iced cream and two bottles (jf champa,i,nie (for, as you
may imagine, our afternoon's amusement had given us a good thirst) comj')Ieted
our (excellent) dinner, for which by the bye we had to pay 16 dollars ! or
about £i 4s. — nice and cheaji ! We began by drinking the Goat's health
altogether at the first sip, and having drunk absent friends, &c., tSrc, finished
up with our own health, and a safe return. We then got into our trap, and
drove home, and, my hat ! but they did just go. I don't think we were more
than a cjuarter of an hour coming back ! I forgot to tell you that about half
way there, as we went, one of our nags cast a shoe, or else we should most
likely have driven round to the Sulphur Springs, at the other end of the lake,
but I'm sure we should not have had such fun. I also forgot to say that on
Tuesday, p.m., we sent up our letter of introduction from Mr. L. to a
Mr. Travers, who is staying in the hotel ; he appeared, after keeping us
waiting about one hour, and has very kindly given us two letters for people at
Newport.

'• I

'Ai

Thursday, 4th.— Had a pull at the Columbia Spring, and went and
called on Madam(> Rene's motlier. The rest of the morning has b(H>n spent
in writing ; and I must now shut up as it is time to get some food before
driving out with Mrs. Rene's ma. I forgot to say that on our return last
night we found Henri minus a tooth, which he had had taken out, and this
morning he had another stopped. I ,re?Jly must shut up now. Hoping you
have enjoyed your trip. ' " , ,

H. S. B.

JOURNAL III.

Thursday, 4th {continued.) — I am now writing; on the Piazza of the
Fort William Henry Hotel, on the cd,i,^e of Lake Gcorj:;e (Saturday, 5.30 p.m.)
We f^ot back from our drive at 6 o'clock, and went and had our <;ame of
Lawn Tennis with the Bradys (or, as G. calls them, the Brandies !) We
played till 7.15, and the jud;j;c asked us if we would not have supper with
them and ^o to their "hop" afterwards, which kind invitation we accepted
with thanks. Whilst we were playinij;, the band of the 7th Regiment (a sort
of militia), came into the hotel gardens with a part of the regiment. The
band was somewhat of an inferior sort, and the uniform was very curious, and
I should think not very practical. At 7.15 we retired to our hotel, dressed,
and were back at the Grand Union by 8 o'clock. After waiting a long time
we got our supper, and then retired to the ball room, a splendid room, kept
for dancing only. The floor and the music were both very good, and two or
three good partners would have made it perfection. I was introduced to a

Miss B , not a bad dancer. There were some very curious specimens of

humanity. The entertainment was brought to a close at 11 o'clock.

Friday, 5th. — We had intended leaving for Lake George by the 8.40 a.m.
However, the Judge offered to take us to Judge Hilton's place, a large park
of 400 acres, about one mile out of Saratoga, so as we were not tied dow^n to
any particular day, we accepted the invitation, the more readily as he told us
it was almost the only place of the kind in the whole of the States, as there
are no parks over here as we have in our country. We left the hotel at 10
o'clock, and drove up to the house, and were shown all over it by the daughter
of the owner. It is (like nearly all the houses in this part of the country),
built of wood, and most bemitifnUy fitted up with everything which money

could purchase, and at the same time arranged wiLh

great

taste.

The

bedsteads are all of the most lovely carving or rare woods ; the mantel-pieces
are all very pretty, being of wood with a looking glass at the back. They have
also most beautiful little marble statues, and huge carved vases of alabaster
and white marble, from Italy; lots of old French clocks, &c., and old
furniture to any extent, as well as imitation old ; some splendid bronzes too —
in fact everything you could possibly think of, and, above all, a most perfect
system of ventilation, and all this, wc were told by the Judge (Brady), is
merely the scum and refuse of their houso in New York ! After seeing all
over the house, we went out to the stables, 'about which the less said the
better. We then drove back to the hotel, which we reached soon after noon,
where we parted with our friend the Judge, who expressed the desire that he

would see somethincj of us when we cjot back to New York. He really seems
a nice old chap, ancl was most kind and ^'ood natured to us. The wife of a
Judge is a lady over here; the dau.L^ditcr is a jolly little thin,L,s and thry don't
give one the idea of being very American ; in iact we are beginning to think
that the really respectable Americans don't " guess," &c., so much, although
of course there is almost always a certam something about them that denotes
their nationality. We left by the 2. so ji.m., and arriNcd at the Glen Falls
about 3.45, where we took the coach on to hire — nine miles from Glen
Falls. The road was very pretty as we came along, but we could not see
the country at all well as there was such a haze. W'e were in an awful
state by the time we got here (3.45 p.m.), what with the heat, which was
" intense," and the dirtiness of the railway, which had the same .'esthetic
propensity, viz., "intense," so we were not sorry to have a dip in the lake,
after which we had supper, and after an ineffectual attempt to get a boat,
turned into bed.

Saturday, 6th. — The haze was still thick, so we could not see the
beauties of the lake ; it promised to be a rare pii)er, so after a diji in the lake
we started at 9 o'clock for a tramp up an adjoining hill, more with a view to
exercise than with hopes of a view. It soon bi'gan to be very warm, and
before we had arrived at the top (i 1.15), we had lost a good deal of supertluous
flesh. We got down to the hotel about 12.30, and Joe and I had a (lip in the
lake, the other two preferred a bath, after which we ilid justice to our diimer,
(especially the li(pior), and then tried to write, but with not much success. At
4 o'clock we went out tishing, and I actualK' caught three hsh (bass.)
George was the first to get his line out, and feeling a jiull, asks what he is to
do with it, and when we all told him to pull it in he swung it round into my
face ! — real jam for me ! At 6 o'clock we saw a storm coining up, so came
in, having caught 18 fish altogether (we four and the man.) Having nothing
to do before supper, we had another dij), during which tiiiK; the storm came
up, and it began to jiour, and never ceased till 12 o'clock this (Sunda))
morning. In the evening there was a cotillion, and the evening before there
was also a bit of a hop.

Sunday, 7th. — Poured until 12 o'clock, so we wrote all the morning, and
in the afternoon, at 4.30, Joe, G., and I started out for a strf)ll, and were not
back till 8 o'clock. We strolled along for about four or five miles along a
very pretty road, with a most beautiful ferner\- for the best part of the way.
We measured one huge frond ; it was about 4 feet long, and about 14 inches
across. W^e took some of the seeds, but I don't sup])ose they will come to
such a size out of their native soil, I certainlv never saw such a mass of ferns
of all sorts, and the variety of trees too was wonderful. We came back
through the woods, where we found maidenhair growing in masses as close as
it could possibly be crammed. It is not cjuite the same as our English fern,
and is of course much coarser, (no joke intended.) I have got some seeds in
the faint hope that they may grow, but it (like the other fern), wants a very

I- 1

111

'■1. :■

moist soil. We have not at present seen a great quantity of birds, but then
we certainly have not had very favourable weather for them, nor have we seen
very many wild flowers.

Monday, 8th. — Left Fort William Henry Hotel at 8.45 a.m., and arrived
at the other end of the lake (33 miles), about 12 o'clock, at a place called
Baldwin. I will attempt to give you some idea of Lake George ; although
33 miles long you nevt;r see more than about half that distance, as it is so full
of islands (varying in length from about three-(iuarters of a mile — though very
few are as big as that — down to mere rocks), so you are not wearied with a
huge expanse of water with nothing to break the monotony. The wooded
slopes of the mountains too descend to the very edge of the water, and there
are little chalets imd houses here and there, and in the back ground there is
always a range of mountains. In some parts the mountains are very bare,
and come down shere into the water. At Baldwin we took the train (five
miles), to Lake Champlain (126 miles long, but only 12 miles at the broadest,
while at one part it is ([uite narrow.) The first hour there is nothing
extremely striking, but after that it becomes simply lo\ely. On the left side
you have the mountains cjuite close above, and for some time they come right
down into the lake, sometimes in beautiful shelving rocks, with a few trees ;
at another time a broken mass will come straight down into the water, while
on the right the ground is slightly undulating, sometimes cultivated, some-
times with woods, and then right far away in the background rises a most
perfect ridge of mountains. As you get more north the lake widens out, and
the hills on the left stand back further, and it is quite different scenery. But
just about here (Burlington), it is not quite so pretty, and the lake is about
its widest, I forgot to say that the hills on the left are the Adirondacks, and
are very curious and grand scenery, on account of the mountains, passes, and
lovely lakes (according to the guide). We arrived here (Burlington), about
5.30 p.m., and took a stroll round this not-particularly-inviting-looking town,
returned to our hotel (American), at 7.30, and after dinner wrote our diaries
ready to send off to-night. Tomorrow we go over the lake to see a wonderful
chasm (Ausable), and intend taking the g.20 train into Boston tomorrow
evening, which lands us there about 8 o'clock next morning, and then, after
two or three days, on to Newport. We expect letters at Boston, as we
received a telegram this evening from La Montague asking us where he should
forward letters to. The man is evidently anxious to turn out the gas, so I
will " dry up " with love to all from

H. S. B.

,i«

JOURNAL IV.

Tuesday, 9th. — Took the 8.45 bojU across the hike to Port Kent, where
we arrived about 9.45. There was quite a stronj^ wind blowinj^, and there
were quite httle waves, which ^^ave us a bit ol motion. At Port Kent we
took the C(>acli to Lake \'iew House (3 miles), and lrt)m thence set out on
foot for the Ausable chasm, a three minutes' walk brouf^dit us to the river
Ausable; it is not a very bi,i( river and comes tumblin*; over some rocks, but
from no j^reat heijjfht, then about 500 yards below, it flows over some other
falls — the f^'uide book says 70 feet, but I should think it was a short 70 feet —
however it is very pretty ; about 300 }ards lower down, the river flows over
the horse shoe falls, and instead of beinj^ about 80 or 100 feet broad, becomes
about 20, and consequenlh- rushes alonj^^ with tremendous force through a
gorge or chasm of about 2 miles long, being sometimes not more than 8 or
10 feet wide, and the rocks go straight up for about 80 or 100 feet, the effect
is very grand, and along the sides there are great fissures covered with small
trees and ferns; steps and railings have been fixed along the side, so you can
go the whole lengths of the chasm, which in man)' places is crossed by
bridges; after about i\ miles the chasm gets narnnver still and the rocks on
both sides come shere down lor about 120 feet, and as the stream is free from
rocks they have a boat which holds about thirteen people, and they take you
down this very narrow part whicli lasts for about 40 or 50 yards, and then
into a more open pool, after w'hich you shoot the rapids, which are about
30 or 40 yards long and bubbling and boiling up all round you ; but the men
manage the boat most beautifully — there are two men, one at each end, and
they guide the boat entirely with Indian paddles, the boat is the same shape
both ends and very high at sides; I forgot to say we had some miniature rapids
in the first narrow bit, and there is a very strong current all the way through,
as there are no rocks it is pcrfectl}- smooth, though you can see that you are
going down hill all the time — so steep is the incline — it has a most curious
effect seeing the water all on a slant, we watched the return boat coming
back empty — they always land you after going down the rapids — and they
must have hard work to get back, we could only see them coming up the
narrow part, as after that the stream takes a sharp bend, they paddle up the
part where there is least stream, and then haul themselves up by means of
ropes fixed to the rocks when coming up the small rapids; but when coming
up the big rapids (one of the men told us) one of them gets out and tows the
boat up, it must be fearful hard \vork. Having landed we walked back to the
hotel, where we fed, and after dinner, as we had to wait two hours before the
coach started, we walked back to the lake and there waited ij hours for the
boat, which made its appearance at 5.15, and landed us at Burlington

i'!

about 6.15. Wc then had supper (and some rfdicic^us honey in comb), but
the wine (St. JuHcn ? ? ?) was such filthy slufl' wc were ohhf^cd to leave it.
At 9.20 wc took the train for Boston, (we had lelcf^r.iphed for lour places in a
sleeping car,) which we reached at 9.40 a.m., the nc \t morning.

Wednesday, 10th. — Arrived at the hotel (Parker's Mouse), wc found
that they could only give us four separate rooms on four different stories,
however it couldn't be heljicd, and as we were not staying long it didn't matter
very much ; after a wash and some food wc set out on our tramp to deliver
our letters of introduction, hut, with one exception, they were all out of town,
as there is ahsolutcl}- no one staying in town now; the one exception was a
Mr. Rotch, a business man, who very kindl}' told us what was to be done, so
after sitting with him for a few minutes wc set out to see Harvard College,
one of their Universities over this side — there are about 1300 students, and
about 4 or 5 scjiaratc houses used as dormitories, which different people have
given to the University ; their system seems something like ours, but very
different in some respects, for boys go there as young as fourteen, sometimes
when they get through their exams, at the public schools ; they each have a
bedroom, and a sitting room for two; there has lately been built a large hall in
memory of the students who fell in the civil war. It is a huge building, and
in a few years will look rather well, but it is only about 2 or 3 }ears old now.
After Harvard College we walked out to Mount Auburn Cemetery, but on the
way H. J. and I turned off to see Professor Longfellow's house, which is (with
all due deference to the great man) about as ugly a thing as ever it was my
misfortune to set my eyes on — a square wooden house painted a lightish
yellow, with blue shutters — after gazing at this "discordant harmony" for a
few seconds we went after the other two whom we found waiting for us in the
cemetery, of which the "tout ensemble" is very pretty and very well kept,
but the tombstones themselves are all of them very ugly, not one nice one
did we see ; after looking about there for a few minutes, we took the tram back
to Boston, where we took a pleasure steamer and went out to a little island
where there are a lot of large hotels and people go out there in the evening
to dine ; after about twenty minutes on the steamer we came to the end of the
island where we took the "cars" for five or ten minutes, which brought us to
(evidently) the favorite hotel, here we had dinner and afterwards listened to
an awtul band for about a quarter of an hour ; we then took the train back
to the end of the island, and got back to Boston city about 11 o'clock.
Mr. Rotch had told us it was quite "the thing" to do and so we did it, but I
shouldn't care to repeat the dose, as the people were the funiest lot I ever
saw, I don't exactly know what they were — shopkeepers &c., I should think.

Thursday, 11th.— We had settled to take a 10.45 a.m. boat out to an
island called Nahant, which Rotch had told us was very pretty ; it is a little
island covered with little chalets, where people who wish to be quite quiet go
out in the summer. Moreover, two people, to whom H. J. had letters, were
staying there — the Amoreys and the Bradleys. There are two Amorey

couples, an old couple, and their son, married to the Judd's old ^'overncss; and it
was to her that H. J. had his letter. I was for^'ettin<,' that we are not yet on
board the boat, in fact some hours from it ; for not being certain of our way
to the wharf, and not having started any too soon from the lu)ti:l, we were
just in time to see the boat moving off; and as the next boat was not till
2.30 p.m., we spent our time by going to the Boston Museum (where there
was the greatest collection of rubbish I ever saw, with a specimen of a
mermaid caught off the coast of Japan, and the warrant to execute Charles I.)
Then on to the State House, where there was absolutely nothing to be seen,
except a great collection of old standards — all very interesting in its way!
After seeing these varied works of nature and of art, we returned to Parker's
house, where, after writing for a little, we had some food, and started off to
catch the 2.30 boat, and this time with more success, and in an hour's time
landed at Nahant Island. As we had not the least idea where these good
people lived, we went up and asked an old gentleman if he could tell us
where the Amorey's house was, whereupon the old boy told us to hop into
his carriage and he would take us there, as he was a cousin of theirs. So in
we hopped, and he dropped us just outside their gate, and in we walked ;
and, having agitated the communicator, out comes an old lady, whom
Henri tried to introduce himself to, but the old girl was awfully deaf, and
pulled out her ear trumpet, which manoeuvre Henri didn't quite understand.
However, he very soon saw what was up, and, after bellowing into the old
lady's ear, she went in and called her hub., who was more get-on-able with,
and a very nice old chap. After a few minutes, Mrs. A., junior, appeared
on the scene, and was almost mad with joy at seeing us, and talking about
everyone. Afterwards her hub., appeared, and after talking some time
they told us we must stay for dinner. They were so kind and hearty that
we had nothing to do but to accept, although we had fed only just before
starting. We had to leave soon after dinner, as the last boat back to Boston
left at 6 o'clock, so we had not time to go and see the Bradleys. We got
back to Boston soon after 7 o'clock, and having nothing particular to do,
I went to see "The Mascotte " with Henri and George, whilst Joe went
back to the hotel to write. The theatre was a very fair sized one, but the
performers were decidedly poor. We did not expect to see anything very
great, but we had nothing else to do, and the other two had seen it in French
and said it was very amusing and pretty.

Friday, 12t]l. — We left Boston at 11.30 a.m., and got to Newport at
2.15 ; but before going further, I must give you my impression of Boston,
which is a much more favourable one than that of New York. It is
certainly a very fine town, with fine buildings — not public ones, but shops
and companies, &c., &c. — and fine streets, which are not at all badly paved ;
and the telegraph and telephone wires (of which there are quite as many as
in New York) instead of being put up in the street on poles, are laid on the
tops of the houses as in London. Some of the private houses too are very
fine, and look well kept; the streets are crammed with tramways running

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in every direction ; a hired carrinf»c is hardly ever to be seen about the
streets. In the middle of the town there is a very nice public garden, laid
out with flowers, and a miniature Serpentine. The tniite ensemble is vefy
pretty, thnuj^h whoever laid out the bods had not much idea of colouring,',
as piiil<s, scarlets, and various red "geraniums, are \mi to;^ether in a very
inartistic manner. Next to this (lower f^arden there is a small park, with
only grass, and a large statue on the top of a bit of a mound ; in fact,
altogether I was very much struck with Boston. But the contrast is very
great after those old German towns, and towns on the Continent, for after
you have walked through a town you have seen all there is to be seen —
there are no galleries or collections to see; but of course one cannot for a
moment expect it of such a new country. Well, after all that about my
opinion of Boston, I may as well continue my narrative. After some food,
and a change of garments, we sallied forth to leave seven letters of intro-
duction, anil thinking it the simplest way, took a carriage, told the driver
our list of peoj)lc, and told him to take us to them all, beginning by the
furthest off and ending up by the nearest. We found all our people were
out, except one man, a Mr. Barton French, (whose crest, funnily enough, is
the same as ours) and two of them are out of town. By the time we had
finished it was 6.30, so we went down and had some supper, and while there
a Mr. Royal Phelps came up to us, and asked which was Mr. Johnston. We
could not make out who it could be at first, but he introduced himself, and
after encjuiring how long we had been here, &c., said he would go and put
down our names at the Casino, where everybody goes, it being a regular
lounge. There arc four or Hve not bad lawn tennis courts, a real tennis
court, and a bowling alley, reading rooms, restaurant, and a very good band.
There is also a club attached to it for cards, billiards, &c., but for this there
is an extra subscription, and for this he did not put down our names. After
he had brought us back our tickets, we took a stroll down to (what they call)
the cliffs, which are not very high — only about 30 feet — but they go down
straight to the water's edge, and the waves splashing up against the rocks
looked awfully pretty in the full moonlight. (I must shut up this for the
present, as George persists in reading out his diary, and making a fearful
row, so that writing is out of the question !) At last he's done, and now
to gather my scattered thoughts. We (when I say we, I mean Joe and I,
for George was too lazy to go as far as the sea, and Henri had gone to the
Casino) sat there for some time (or, as they would say here, "quite a while,")
and were very loth to leave, it did look so lovely.

I forgot to say that after our visits we went and saw an old boatman who
had been recommended to us by Mr. French. He is a charming man, and
was born in England, but soon after came out here.

Saturday, 13tll. — We started by walking down to the sea for a dip ;
after which, having had breakfast, we went to the Casino. Looked about
a bit, and having found out that to play you had to put your name down
on a slate and wait your turn, Joe and I wrote our names down for a single.

We luid not lonj^ to wail, and we had a very fjoocl game, having hired
some very decent rac<|ucts. When we fir'* began there were very few
people there, but " fust they came by twa's .iiid twa's, and then they came
by swarms," and b) the time we had |tla}ed our (irst set there was (|uite a
crowd of people. They were mr)st casual in the way in which then* strolled
across our court without so mucli as " bv your leave." Just a fcnv yards
from our court there were one or two nice shady trees, so everyone came
and congre};ated there — much to our discomfort, as we were always afraid
of hitting amongst them, which we actually did once or twice. And then they
walked (juite close to the line, so that if you were running about a bit, you
were just as likely as not to run up against someone. Whilst we were
playing, G. O. was being introducid to a good many peojilc (II. J. was at
the hotel) by Mr. Phcljxs, who seems a nice old chap. When we got back
to the hotel we found lots of cards, and two letters asking us to dinner
for Sunday night, one of which (Mr. l-Y'aring's, to whom we had a letter of
introduction from Mr. Travers, of Saratoga,) we acceptetl. There was a
lovely breeze blowing in the afternoon, so we went and told our boatman
(Martland) that we should like to go out. We did not get out till hard upon
4 o'clock, by which time the wind had dropped a bit. However, there was
still a good breeze, and we went cruising about in the bay or outer harbour.
Old M. is a very well informed man, and exceedingly nice, not a bit
American. Our boat (which is the regular kind of boat used here) was
what they call here cat rigged, i.e., with only one huge sail ; they are very
handy boats, and seem very good. We got in about C.30, having enjoyed
our sail immensely. After some supj^er we went to the Casino, and then
turned in, but not before we had found that they have got a few weekly
papers {Punchy &c.) and one or two magazines. I forgot to say that we
saw Miss Duncan at the Casino. She is here on a visit, without her parents;
she was well dressed, and looked very nice. By the bye, I don't think
I have yet made any comment on what we have seen of American society.
We were told that this (Newport) was the place where we should see the
fashionable American society, and certainly they are a far more respectable-
looking lot of people than we have yet seen. And as to the frights we saw
at Saratoga ! I fancy, from spccd<ing with different people, that Saratoga
does not gcnerall}' seem ver} much thought of, nor the people that go there.
But this is very sujierior to Saratoga in every way. There is plenty to do,
if you like, or if you like, you can swagger about in a top hat and patent
leathers, wear half a dozen different suits in a day, go to the Casino in the
morning, and drive in the afternoon. Talking of driving, they are, without
exception, the poorest set of whips I ever saw, from a cab driver to a man
driving a team (of which we have seen four or five since we have been here),
they all drive with a rein in each hand, and the consequence is, the horses
lollop along in an awful way. And then their idea of what horses are suited
to what carriages I A lady in a tea cart drives a huge lumbering horse, a
cross '.etween a farm horse and a good wheeler in a team ; then a little sort
of pony carriage will have a pair of huge camels. And they get the poor

animals' heads stuck up ri<,dit in the air with the bearing rein ; and the
tops of the coachman's breeches befjjin about the middle of the le<:j, and
finish off just above the ankle! In fact, I cannot say that I am favourably
impressed witli American drivinjjj. As to the fair sex, I don't think,
from the specimens we have seen at present, that there is much fear of a
daughter-in-law being sent home to you on approval from these parts.
There are some extremely pretty (or I guess I ought to say " quite elegant ")
houses about here, and some very prettily laid out gardens ; and really the
palms that we see growing in the gardens (either planted or in pots) they
are simply splendid. There is one house especially, near our hotel, where
there are a rare lot of palms, and such beauties. There are also some fine
stone houses here, especially that of Mr. Pcabody Wetmore, to whom we
(H. J. that is to say) have a letter of introduction, but we have not yet met
him, as he has been out both the times we called. This is quite different
from Saratoga, in that there are no enormous hotels, the Ocean House (at
which we are staying) being the only one of any importance. I am more
and more convinced that the really gentlemanly Americans have not as a rule
got half the twang that their more vulgar people have, nor do they guess, &c.,
though of course they have different ways of expressing themselves; "quite"
is a very favourite word here, in place of " very."

Sunday, 14t]l. — Went to Church in the morning, where we heard the
Bishop of New York preach — about the state of the President, and the state
of the times, party feeling, &c., &c.

After Church, we went down to old Martland, and told him we would go
out fishing next day at 8.30 a.m. After dinner we took the fashionable walk,
and at 7.30 went to dine with Mr. Fearing. It was quite a bachelors' dinner.
He gave us a rare mixture of wines, including some Madeira of 1805 !

Monday, 15tii. — It looked rather ugly in the morning ; however, we were
cjff by 8.45, and after an hour's tacking against the wind we arrived at our
fishing place, and, having let down the anchor, soon had the lines baited with
bits of fish. G. very soon had a bite, but lost it, as, instead of hauling in
his line as fast as he could, he took it quite leisurely. You have to haul in as
fast as you can, or the beggars will run up the line and snap it off before you
know where you are. A few minutes afterwards, H.J. landed a shark of
about three feet long, and about the same number of years old : we soon
stuck a knife into his head and sent him back again. We did not have a bite
for some time after that, but before we left at 10 o'clock Joe landed a flounder,
and G. G. and I each a blue fish, about ten pounds, which we afterwards
sent to Mr. Fearing and Mr. Phelps. By the time we started back the wind
had gone down a-bit : there was still a good breeze, and we were soon back.
I never knew it was half so hard to steer when going before the wind.
I forgot to say that old Martland let us steer nearly the whole time. Before
going in, we stopped just outside the inner harbour, and fished for little
sea perch (the biggest of which weighed scarcely two pounds) , and flounders

which weifrhed about four or five pounds and were great sport to catch.
About thirty-six of the former and seven of the latter, together with two
black bass (about three pounds), an "old maid" or "devil" fish, completed
our bag, and we returned about 5 o'clock, having enjoyed our day immensely.
I had never steered a sailing boat before, and enjoyed it innnenscly : the old
boy let me steer right into the harbour. Of course he always had his eye
upon us when steering, and told us what to do. On our return we had some
supper, whilst George and Henri went to dine with Mr. Phelps. He said he
was afraid to ask us all at once, so he would ask us two another day.
Afterwards G, and H. went to the Casino with him, his two grand-daughters
and grandson, and their stepmother ; Joe and I joined them at the ball room
afterwards. There was a very good band ; they were on a sort of stage at
the end of the room, with some stage scenery round them, which had a very
pretty effect. I did not dance, as I was not introduced until late in the
evening. The dancing was nothing out of the way ; there were some nice
dresses there, but all the ladies were dancing in their hats ! We went away
soon after 1 1 o'clock ; a great many people had already gone, and I fancy it
was over very soon after. By the bye — just for my own benefit as a memoir —
on Saturday afternoon, just before coming in from our sail, we went cruising
among all the yachts which were lying at anchor in the inner harbour, of
which the biggest was 280 tons. It is the biggest yacht they have in the
States ; she is called the "Ambassadress," and belongs to a Mr. Astor.
I can't compare them with our English yachts, as I have never seen any, but
Henri says they are not so pretty and do not look as smart.

Tuesday, 17th. — Joe and I went to play lawn tennis with the
Miss Carolls (Mr. Phelps' grand-daughters) and their friends. We got
away about 12 o'clock, and went to the hotel, and were just going off to
the Casino to have some more lawn tennis, when George told us that
Mr. Willing, whom only G. has yet seen, was waiting downstairs, and was
going to take us to a Mr. Powell's house for some lawn tennis, so we all went
with him, and found a really capital game of lawn tennis going on, — in fact
they are about the best players here. After seeing them play, we two took
racquets and made up a four. We were awfully out ot it at first, as we
could not get accustomed to our weapons, but we soon got accustomed to
them, and had some good games. Afterwards Joe and I had a single, when
Joe sprained his ankle, b^it as it did not hurt him much, went on again,
though he was very lame when we got back to the hotel ; however; this
morning he is much better, I am glad to say. They all play up at the net
awfully, but are rare good at it. After dinner at 3 o'clock \vc took a very
dusty drive, and did nothing in the evening. Willing had told us we were
to have an invitation to the Warren's big ball, but it didn't come, so we
didn't go.

H. S. B.

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JOURNAL V.

Wednesday, 17tll. — A beastly morning and very cold with rain and east
wind. After breakfast we found Mr. French outside on the Piazza, after a
few minutes' conversation we went upstairs and wrote our diaries which we
sent off to day ; soon after noon we went to see if the Powells were playing
lawn tennis, but found them rolling instead, we sat down and talked for a bit,
and then came back to the hotel — linished writing, and then went to dine with
Mr. French at 3.30 p.m. We had a very riice dinner, and like him very much,
the son seems a very nice fellow. We did not leave there till 7 o'clock, when
George and I did some shopping, then went to the Casino and red the papers
(English).

Thursday, IStll. — Joe and I started with a dip, and at 1 1 o'clock went
to play lawn tennis with Mr. Phelps' two grand-daughters (Miss Carolls) as
we had promised, I played two sets and got beaten both times, after which
we went away and started on our P. P. C, expedition, beginning by the
Fearings and Wetmores; both of whom were out, so G. was the only one
that got to know Wetmore (at the Casino on Saturday). Then back to the
hotel for some food and afterwards to the bVcnclics, who were in, Willings out,
then down to take farewell of old Martland and then to the Powells who we
were glad to find at home, then back to the hotel, by which time it was 5.30.
So we spent the whole day paying visits, and after 2.30 it poured all the
afternoon — real jam! At 7 o'clock Joe and I dined with Mr. Phelps, and
Mr., Mrs., two Misses and Master Caroll ; we found out that they are
Baltimore people and I fancy of some importance there ; they asked us to call
on them when there. After dinner the young ladies sang, and then Joe was
called upon; after playing Chopsticks, need I say what he played? Before
leaving, Joe asked the old gentleman what we were indebted to him for the
Casino tickets, upon which he stared at Joe and after a very awkward pause
said, "you will please mind your own business ;" of course Joe said he could
not hear of his paying for us, however it was no j^ood, and so all we could do
was to thank him profusely and submit. We were cjuite enchanted with the
old man, he w^s so hearty and kind, and there was no " rot" about him.

Friday, 19th. — We had intended leaving by the 10.20 train to sleep at
Mrs. Amory's, but H. J., who had been unwell for a few days previous, was
not up to it in the morning, so we waited to see how he would be by the
afternoon. In the meantime we other three went down to see if Martland
was in, intending to have a sail, however, as bad luck would have it, he was
out, and we had to amuse ourselves by a walk round by the cliffs; on our way

2cp at

3, was

back George and I had a dip as there were some grand breakers, and on
returning to the hotel found Henri much better and ready to take the 3 o'clock
train on to Quincy (Mrs. A's village), which we reached at 5.20 p.m., where
we found Mrs. A. had come to meet us with her carriage. Her house stands
just above a navigable arm of the sea, on which George, Joe and I risked our
precious lives in a little boat for a few minutes, together with a most enchanting
old Scotchman who came over here 12 years ago thinking to make his fortune:
we came back soon after dinner — (oh dear this close weather at N. Conway)
has got into my head and what absolute rubbish I'am writing, but "courage
mes enfants" what I meant to say was, we came back after a short row, to
7 o'clock dinner, and at 7.30 Mr. A. came home and soon after .10 we
turned in.

Saturday, 20th. — Breakfast at 9 o'clock, and away we went about 10.20
to take the train for Boston which we reached about 1 1 o'clock, and having
taken our luggage across to the Eastern "Depot" sloped about all the slums
we could find for about an hour and then back to the "Dt'pot" {i.e. Station)
to take the 1.30 train on to here (N. Gonway), which we reached at
6.15, after a most filthy journey, through a very thinly populated, and
chiefly, very wooded country. For about an hour before getting here
the country is lovely, although sometimes rather shut in by the woods through
which the line passes. The lights on the mountains (or rather hills) were
simply lovely, and their colouring too, was extremely varied. We found the
hotel Kearsage, which seemed by the guide to be the best, crammed, however
having telegraphed for rooms they managed to give us two rooms in a cottage
about five minutes from the hotel with a biggish bed in each ; after taking the
thickest layer of dirt off we adjourned for some food, after which, and a short
stroll, we turned in as we did not wish to "join the dance" which was
going on.

Sunday, 21st. — George has been somewhat disturbed by Henri in the
night. The clouds arc very low and it is most awfully close; we went to
church this morning, and since then have been trying to write, but what with
the heat and George's music (?), which he ahva}S will give us when least
wanted, I am sure I have written most awful rubbish. You may not be aware
of the fact that N. Conway is the southern entrance to the White Mountains,
and is situated in a pretty valley. To morrow we drive to Glen House (20
miles), starting at 7 o'clock, and arriving there in the course of 5 hours, walk
up Mount Washington, sleep there, see the sunrise (??), and down to Crawford
House Tuesday.

H. S. B.

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JOURNAL VI.

Sunday, 21st (continued). — In the afternoon G., Joe and I braved the
elements and walked out to Echo (?) Lake, and got back about 7 o'clock.

Monday, 22nd. — We left the hotel about 7.20 in a ** buck board," i.e. a
two-horsed four-wheeled trap, formed of a board about 3 feet broad and
somewhere about 20 or 15 feet long, with wheels at each end and two seats
fixed on this board (which is, I believe, larch-wood). In this vehicle we drove
to Glen House (20 miles), which we reached at 12.40. The drive was an
exceedingly pretty one, though the road was (as all their roads are about
here) awfully bad ; our road lay all through the valley ; at first itwas open on
each side, but after about three hours we got into woods which lasted for the
rest of the way. Joe started driving, and after an hour we stopped to see
some falls which were a short way from the road ; after this Henri took the
ribbons and afterwards gave them to me, shortly after which wc pulled up to
water the nags. I must tell you that we had two carriages just ahead of us ;
well, we didn't see the fun of this and we thought we might as well pass them,
so having backed a bit, as I saw we could not turn very short, I turned,
however if I did I turned somewhat shorter than the trap would allow of and
bent the off wheel somewhat out of the perpendicular ; but being, as all their
wheels over here are, very light, it was easily put back, we went on our way
rejoicing, though of course we could not pass, and we had to drive somewhat
carefully ; however we got to our destination without any further excitement.
Before getting there we stopped and got out to see the Glen Ellis Falls, a
large volume of water flowing through a narrow channel, very pretty but
nothing out of the way; after another ih hour's drive we arrived at Glen
House, a big hotel at the base of Mount Washington. We should have been
there much sooner had not the carriages ahead crawled along so, and we
could not pass them as the road was too narrow. I forgot to say that we had
sent our portmanteaux round to Profile House by rail. The day was lovely
till we got to Glen House, when the clouds began to show themselves on the
tops of the mountains ; however, after some cold food, we started to walk up
Mount Washington (8 miles) , having left our bags and wraps to be brought
up by the coach, which was to start at 3 o'clock and would arrive at 6 o'clock.
The carriage road is, for this country, rather a good one, but it is really
awfully bad ; being made of nothing but sand more or less beaten down, the
consequence is that after a little rain they are at their best, after more rain
they get heavier and muddier, and after most rain they are truly awful, and
they are seldom very broad, so the carriages always go in the same place, and
need I add the result — but to continue ; after walking for about an hour we

found a signboard pointing to " Tuckerman's Ravine," so having plenty of
time before us in we went, and whether we got to the ravine itself or not, I
don't know, as after wandering into the wood for about 20 minutes the path
did not give any signs of coming to an end ; but certainly it was a most
lovely wood, and all in such a wild state, ferns all over the place, but not so
fearfully thick as we have seen them, and most lovely moss. We came
across a very curious flower or fungus, I don't know which, it was very much
like a single bluebell, only pure white — both flower and stalk — it looked
exactly like wax and seemed to grow from a root, we none of us knew
anything about it. About half an hour aftenvards we came out into the road,
but only a short way above where we entered. The clouds had already come
down a bit and soon after it began to rain, so we took refuge under a bridge
which crossed a stream ; we stayed there about a quarter of an hour, but as
it did not look much like leaving off, although it was much less than when we
entered, we went on, and soon after it stopped raining ; however, we soon got
into the clouds, which got thicker and thicker as we went up, accompanied
by a driving wind ; however there was nothing to be done, so on we went,
and at last reached the top at 6 o'clock — soaked through, as we had all
left our mackintoshes at the Glen House (I dont know why the others didn't
take theirs, but I clean forgot mine) ; however, the coach was (supposed) to
arrive at 6 o'clock, so we thought we should not have very long to wait, and
accordingly ordered some hot brandy and water and turned into bed, but
having nothing else to do we set up a very mild chorus of " Fine hunting
day," which however soon brought up a man who told us to "shut up that
noise " or some such civil expression ; having been told to shut up in that
cheeky manner I need hardly say that our noise was not stopped until we
were tired of it and got rather sleepy ; but after about three quarters of an
hour we began to think that the coach was a long time coming ; at 7 o'clock
we asked if it had not yet arrived and were told "yes, but your baggage is
not yet unloaded," there was never a sign of a bell and we had sent all our
wet clothes down to be dried ; after about half an hour we began to get
desperate, George walked about in a blanket and we all halloaed for " waiter
or chambermaid," and at last they came up and told us to " shut our door

and be quiet," so we told them to go to the and bring up our luggage,

and just as I had almost (and I thing George also) made up our minds to go
down in our blankets and fetch them up ourselves it luckily (for us) made its
appearance, and then after that the men were most cheeky, and as we were
innocently whistling and occasionally talking to one another through the
walls, which were only wooden boards, one man had the cheek to come and
tell us — "here you fellows just stop this row!" whereat we told him to hold
his noise, began again and then went down to food which was not at all bad ;
after which turned in.

Please do not be surprised if to day's diction is somewhat scratchy and
disjointed, but I am writing this on the Piazza of the Profile House, with a
most glorious sunset lighting up the hills just by the hotel, and lots of people
keep passing, so my thoughts are somewhat distracted.

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Tuesday, 23rd.— We intended walking down to Crawford House to day,
but the weather is just as bad as yesterday, with no signs of clearing up, so we
took the 7 o'clock train down the mountain which landed us at Fabyan's
House at 8.45 a.m., for which one hour and forty-five minutes we had to pay
4 dollars each. The railway is exactly like that of the Righi, though the
engine and carriage are not built so slanting, so you are not sitting so perpen-
dicularly as on the Kighi ; the incline is rare steep at times, and in some
places it is one foot in three. When we got down we found that the clouds
were not only in the mountain. At Fabyan's we changed cars for Crawford
House which we reach in about ten minutes. We could not see very well as
the clouds were so low, but it must be a pretty situation and it is a rare good
hotel. Having refreshed the inner man, we walked through the Crawford
Notch, which, as far as we could make out, was the name given to the
beginning of a very pretty valley. The clouds had lifted a bit by this time,
but every now and then they came down a bit and we had " a little summer
shower," which however never lasted more than a few minutes. We passed
two very pretty cascades, you could see the water falling from a long way up
the mountain ; the road lay in the wood at the bottom of the valley, with the
mountains rising straight up on each side with most beautifully wooded slopes,
though on the left the rocks were too precipitous to allow ol trees, and they
were a most perfect colour, especially when the sun shone on them ; we
walked down the valley for about two hours (as well as I can remember)
expecting to get to the Notch, (as I had got into my head that the Notch
was a very narrow pass between two rocks, and I believe Joe had the same
idea,) however, on asking a man how much further on the Notch was, we
were told that we had passed it some time ago, so I fancy the actual Notch
was at the l)eginning of the valley into which we went, where it was rather
narrow and the railway passes between the side of the mountain and a huge
mass of rock on the left ; after being told that we had passed the Notch we
did not sec the good of going on further as it was not as pretty as what we
had already passed, so we turned up to the right and got up on the railway
line which was somewhere about 200 or 300 feet above the bottom of the
valley ; on our way up we put up five young pheasants. We walked all the
way back on the line, stopping occasionally either to eat raspberries (of which
there were simply masses), or admire the view; we got a splendid view of
the valley in general which is one of the finest of its sort that I think I ever
saw. The opposite mountains did not of course look so fine as when we
were under them, but there is a huge mass of rock at the opening of the
valley and which forms the Notch itself, which was simply splendid, and the
lights upon it as the sun shone on it was lovely — I don't know where I have
seen rock so beautifully coloured. On our way back we saw two perfect rain-
bows down in the valley below us, and the effect was too lovely — the trees
which were under the bow were lit up so that we could see every twig, and
the trees we saw through the bow were coloured, of course according to the
colours of the rainbow itself; we stood and watched it for a long time, and I
don't think I shall ever forget the effect — I cannot describe it in the least —

both the bows were perfect with most perfect colours. When we stood just
under the mountain of rock which forms the Notch and looked down the
valley, it looked exactly as if you had taken a husjje pji-ccn carpet of various
shades and held it up at each end. You could see nothing; of the road, but
it looked like one mass of green ; what adds greatly to the colouring over
here is that, instead of the trees being all the same kind, as they are
generally in Switzerland and the Pyrenees, there is a great variety
which gives a great variety of shades. On some few mountains there are
nothing but firs, and the effect on one of the mountains just above Crawford
House, called — I think — the Elephant's Head, is very curious ; to about
three-fourths of the way up the mountain there is a light coloured pine,
then suddenly they cease and there is a very much darker sort which grows
up as far as the top. I really don't think we could have had a better
day for seeing the valley, for had it been a glorious cloudless day we
should not have had half the colouring nor the rainbows — I never remember
having enjoyed a valley walk more. We got back to the House about four
o'clock, and as we had nothing to do (we had not taken our diaries with us)
we strolled oat in the opposite direction, but as it was not interesting we
soon retraced our steps. After writing some letters we had supper, and
afterwards having purchased some cards, Henri and I were initiated into the
mysteries of whist by the other two, then after finishing our letters we
turned in.

Wednesday, 24th. — We had settled over-night that if the weather
looked hopeless we would go by rail to Profile House, but if it looked at all
like clearing up we would drive there (26 miles) ; accordingly, finding that at
7 o'clock it looked hopeless, as the clouds were more than half-way down the
mountains and looked very heavy, we took the "cars" at 8.35 a.m. and
arrived at Profile House at 10.20 a.m., having changed at Fabyan's and
Bethlehem. Here the clouds were just about the same, so, as it was useless
to go up any mountain for a view, we set off" on shanks' mare for the Flume,
six miles distant. We left the hotel at 11.30. As usual, the road, which
was without exception the worst I ever saw, lay through woods, and in places
it was extremely prctt}', as it wound about a good bit, and the trees often
met above. After about one-and-a-half hour's walk, we " arrovc " at what is
called "The Basin." It is formed by the water falling about twenty feet into a
basin of about fort}' feet in diameter, and as there is only a small outlet for
the water, it is forced to How round and round in this basin, and so has eaten
away the rock so that it forms an overhanging cliff; the escaping water, too,
has formed the rock into the shape of a man's leg and foot. I fear this gives
but a poor idea ; however, I hope to get a photo of it, which will show more
clearly. We crossed the stream here and went into the wood a little way to
see some very pretty cascades, where the water flows over a long slab of rock
which it has worn away in places and formed little channels, then it spreads
out again and flows over the rocks. The general effect is very pretty. We
then went back to the road, which we followed up for about one-and-a-half

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miles more, which brought us to the Flume House, where we were not sorry
to get some food, as we had had nothing since breakfast, at 7.45 a.m., and it
was now hard upon 2 o'clock. After our food, we started out at 3 o'clock, as
well as I can remember, for "The Pool," about three-quarters of a mile from
the hotel, which is formed by a good volume of water falling some distance
into a large pool, and the rocks rise straight up from the water to a distance of
(the guide-book says) 150 feet, but I think the good gent who measured it
must have had good long feet. The water is an awfully dark colour and very
deep (I forr^jt exactly how deep). I must say I was not very much struck by
the Pool, though it is certainly very pretty. We went from there to the
Flume, which is most grand and wonderful, and of which I cannot
give you any idea. It is about one mile from the hotel. First we went a
short way through the woods along the side of the stream, which presently
flows for some hundred yards over a perfectly smooth slab of rock ; there was
then not much water, of course, but in spring it evidently flows all over the
rock, which is, I should say, about sixty feet at its widest. However, the water
was only flowing at the side then, and we walked along this rock till the glen
suddenly became much narrower, with high walls of perpendicular rock on
each side, and as the water rushes all along the bottom of the glen, they have
put up some boards to walk along, and up you go for some little way, when
suddenly the glen becomes very narrow (about fifteen or twenty feet), and
about twenty feet above your head it is narrower still, and there is a big
round rock fixed in mid-air, which looks exactly as if it had fallen from the
top of the mountain and had been caught and held there by the narrowness
of the ravine : it is quite flat on one side of the ravine, and is only held up
on the other by the smallest bit, and looks as if a slight shove would dislodge
it. Here the boards cease ; however, we scrambled on about one hundred yards
further, and then Joe and I went still farther up the ravine. It was a rare
scramble, and the rocks gave very little foothold as they were worn so smooth
by the water. One time we scrambled all fours along a tree which had fallen
across and up the stream, then we went up a bit further still, but soon after
began to retrace our steps, as the ravine was not striking any further up, and
there was no more scrambling to be had. We found the other two waiting for
us where we had left them, and we then began (very much to my regret, for I
could have stayed there for a long time more) to retrace our steps. I don't
know when I have enjoyed a walk more, and I don't think I shall forget it in
a hurry. I hope to get a photo, which gives a very good idea of it. We got
back to the Flume House about 4.35, and back to the Profile House at 6.30.
On our way back we went a few yards off the road to a path along the Profile
Lake, and from there we saw the profile of " the old man of the mountain "
himself. It is a most perfect profile of a man's face formed by three rocks
very near the top of the mountain. The guide-book says it is forty feet long
from the chin to the top of the forehead, but a paper which we found m the
hotel calls it eighty feet, and I think the latter must be nearer the mark,
judging from the height up which it is and the clearness with which you see
it. I never saw such a lot of wonderful phenomena in one day — all so utterly

different from one another, and all more curious one than the other. Having
seen to the inner and outer man, we took a short breath of air, listened to a
very good band, and then, after a short game of whist, went to roost,
thoroughly delighted with our day.

Thursday, 25th. — We left the hotel at 9.5 a.m. on our ten toes to walk
up Mount Lafayette. It was a fine day when we started, though some few
clouds were about in places. For about two hours we tramped up a roughish
path through a very pretty wood, and as usual the moss was very thick,
though there were not so many ferns as usual. After about two hours we
came, as we thought, to the top of the mount, however, on getting up to open
country we saw an immense mass of rock towering some 800 feet or so above
us, so on we went. The path went down a bit at first, but soon after went
up again, and presently we left it and made straight for the top of the
mountain across a lot of rocks, somewhat to the disgust of a man who had
taken it into his head to follow us up, and who, when about half way up the
rocks '"guessed he was about tired out;" poor fellow! We were about forty
minutes from the time we first thought we were at the top to the time we
were really at the summit, which we reached at 1 1.45. We had a very fair view
of the mountains, except Mount Washington, which persisted in keeping his
cap on. Lafayette is 5,200 feet — 3,000 feet above the Profile House, and
Mount Washington is about 1,000 feet higher. We had a very good view of
most of the valley, though the clouds persisted in lying heavy over the one
which we had left. The valley was the prettiest part of the scenery, as there
is nothing very striking about the mountains, and we were too far from them
to see the colouring. However, we had a very good panoramic view.
We settled that you could perfectly see the White Mountains very com-
fortably and fully in a week, as, owing to there being no high peaks,
the panoramic views from the summits must be all the same. I think the
great charm of these mountains is the curiosities of nature ; its small views,
which, though there are not many of them, as the trees arc so seldom thinned
out, yet, when you do get a peep it is generally that of a very pretty bit of
valley ; and last, but by no means least, their lovely colouring. We stayed
up there till 12.45, when, as the clouds were rising from the valley and hiding
our view, we started down again, and reached the hotel at 2.25, having done
the last half at a good pace. We met two or three parties on their way up,
with the first of which there was a guide, who asked us 50 cents each for toll !
We had seen something about toll put up on a notice, so we knew it was all
right, but fancy paying two shillings to go up a mountain ! I'll trouble you !
One lady we met was " got up " for mountain walking, having nothing but
her dress — it looked more like a simple petticoat — and a sort of flannel jersey
with no sleeves, and I think some sort of bodice. We were all so shy we
had to put our handkerchiefs up 1 ! ! By the time we got down we were simply
ravenous, as we had had nothing to eat since starting at 9 o'clock. After some
food we walked half a mile to the Echo Lake, where we were driven wild by
the excruciating sounds of an awful wind instrument of some kind. Having

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admired its beauties (the lake's I mean), and yelled discordantly, we returned
to the hotel, and Georj^^e and I sat out on the balcony, where I attempted to
write an account of Monday, but (as you will have seen) with no fj;reat
success, for what with the sunset lij^dit on the mountains and the various
si<;hts, I think I wrote about 1] pasjjes in over an hour. At 8 o'clock wc
retired to supper, and afterwards went out on the piazza and listened to the
band, watched the dancinj;, and, would you believe it, we saw the comet ! but
what puzzled us was, was it the same or another ? Anyh.ow, his tail was
ever so much lon;:,'er, thoui^h not so bright as our old friend. After Newport
I think the people here are the most respectable we have seen.

Friday, 26th. — Before startin^^ for Quebec, I manap;cd to get a little
writing dcjne, as I was still AX-ry behind hand. We took the 11 o'clock train
to Bethlehem, which we reached at 11.30, changed there, and waited for
another train till 1.20, employing the time by writing my diary! We then
took a most beautifully ventilated drawing-room car with windows all along
the top, and large windows which opened for about 18 inches from the
bottom, outside which there was a piece of close wire netting, which prevented
the dust from getting in, so instead of arriving at Newport (at 4.45), in a
filthy mess, we were as clean as when we started, or almost so. Speaking of
Newport, I don't mean the town south of Boston, but one of the same name
in Vermont, just on the border of Canada. The country we came through
was in places very pretty, but, as usual, the line lay through woods for the
greater part of the way, and also, as usual, the country was very thinly
populated until nearing Newport, when there were more signs of life visible,
and some attempts at agriculture, though the land is very undulating — all up
and down, in little hillocks and mounds. As we had to wait till 10.30 for our
other train, we took a boat and had a dip in Lake Memphramagog, which
must be extremely pretty, but there was such a thick haze that we could see
very little of its beauties. After our dip we returned to the hotel and had a
most vile supper, and some most horrible Californian white wine. After this
very nasty meal, Joe, G. and I had a turn at whist, G. playing dummy. At
10.30 we entrusted ourselves to the tender mercies of a Pullman, which landed
us at Point Levi, on the opposite side of the river to Quebec ; here we had to
take the steamer across to Quebec, which we reached at 9 o'clock on the
morning of —

Saturday, S7th, having been due at 6.35 — only two hours and thirty-
five minutes late ! We chartered one of the native carriages — which are
about the most unpractical and ugly that I ever saw — and drove up to the
Hotel St. Louis, or Russell House, where we found your letters of the 6th
and 13th inst. We lost no time in going to feed, as we were all ravenous, but
next to that, at Newport (in Vermont,) it was about the worst we have had
since we have been on this side. After perusing all your letters, for which
many thanks, and having had a wash, we set out to deliver our letters of
introduction. Our first was to the Governor of Quebec — His Excellence,

Mr. Robitaille — which II. J. had from a friend of his, or his father's; he has
asked us to hinch with him on Momlay, and we acceplcd ; then ri^'lit to the
lower end of the Town, to a <;entlcman who was not U) l)e found. W'e went
down from the Uj^per Town by means ol" a Hft, which saved our poor le^'s
from Roinj,' down a fearfully steeji street, which connects the two jiarls of the
Town, then we walked back a,i;ain up that awful hill (it uas so hoi) to the
hotel, investinj^' in the "Grai)li'c" and weekly edition of "The Times"
on our way back. We had S(jme food, and then took a carriaj^e and drove
all about the town in search of two people's houses to leave our letters, but
they were both out, so we went and saw the Basilica, where the f^'uide-book
said there were some fine pictures, but I fear we failed to see their beauty,
and the Basilica itself is an u^dy, tawdry, Roman Catholic edihce ; then we
went to another little chapel belonjjjini; to a "monkery" which was ditto. We
then drove out to see a monument, erected on the spot where "General
Wolfe died victorious," which, as the guide truly observes, is "very plain
and simple," then back to the hotel to write our diaries, and, after some food,
turned in.

Sunday, 28th. — Church at II o'clock, and afterwards we took a trap and
drove out to the Loretto Villa.ge, alonij an extremely uninterestinj; road.
At Loretto we went into a bit of an inn, and asked if they could f,dve us some
food, and on being told that they could give us some roast beef in 20 minutes,
we employed the interval by overhauling their stock of Indian goods, and
ended by buying some things ; then for the food. But oh my ! what a rum
joint. It looked for all the world like ribs broken and tied at each end, and
when we did get some off, it was rather after the style of the "Gadmen*
ham," though not quite as bad ; however, the taties were real ikey ! and the
bread was decent, which is more than it is at the Russell House, Quebec.
After stowing our purchases into the carriage, we went on to see some lakes
which G. had seen about in the guide-book ; however, after we had been
going for about half-an-hour we seemed simply making straight for Quebec,
and we asked our driver about the lakes and understood him to say that they
were just a little off the road, so on we went, but soon found ourselves at
Quebec ! I forgot to say that after our lunch we went to see the Loretto
Falls, which are just below the hotel and arc very pretty, but are more of a
cascade than a fall. On returning to the hotel we took a short stroll and
then back for some food, and afterwards another stroll and then in again to
write. I must say I am somewhat — not to say very — disappointed with
Quebec, as I expected to find a fine town instead of a dirty rambling sort of
place with fearful roads and two fine buildings, the rest an awful "shuck"
lot. It has more the appearance of a pokey little out-of-the-way small town
in some out-of-the-way place on the continent. All the people speak a most

* In the summer of 1879, Father, Joe, and I crossed from Englcberi,', over the Wendcn Glacier, to Gadmen,
where we rested for the night at the very humble " Bar" Inn, and where, after an eleven hours' walk, we had to
satisfy our cravings with relays of fried eggs and potatoes ; the only thing in the shape of meat being a ham, which
entirely defied our powers of mastication. " Gadmen ham " lias since become a " household word."

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awful sort of gil bcrisli of French patois. As to the hotel i it is without
exception, I thin a, about the worst I ever was in. Ihe feeling is simply
beastly. It is six of one and half-a-dozen of the other, wheLlier this or the
hotel of Wurzburf; * is the worst. Now I have no more to say, so will close
this ready to send off to-morrow to catch the mail at New York on i'riday.

♦ 111 1880, B. II, U. and 1 stoi)i>cd a night at Wurzburg, where wo put up at, what tu-noJ out to be, a most
disgusting hutol.

H. s. B.

-^c^

Hii

JOURNAL VII.

Monday, 29th.— Wo started drivincj soon after 8 a.m., for the Mont-
morency l''alls, alonj^' a very \\'^\y road, Itut we f,'ot a jolly view of the opposite
side of the river, and a capital view of Quebec, which certainly looks far
better at a distance. The falls are about nine miles from Quebec, and we
Rot there about 9.30. We then f(ot down and walked about half a mile to the
falls, and down a tremendous lf)t of stejis, so that we looked up at thtMn

they

are certainly splendid. The water falls about 300 feet, and they are

about 100 feet broad, I should

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vtMume 01 waier, some 01 wincn snoots clean over, and docs'nt touch the rocks
till about halfway down, when it is evidently cau,L(ht by a basin from which it
is shot out apjain by the force of the water following,' it, upwards, and then falls
down below, while to the left there is not such a shoot, and the water falls
from rock to rock, and the effect is lovely. The sun was shiniuf; on the
spray, so that there was a lovely rainbow of prismatic (I.E.B. !) colours.
The water falls into a lar<:,^e lagoon, which soon after flows into the St.
Lawrence. We sat there for some time looking at the falls, and then drove
back to the hotel, which we reached about 11.30. We then went up and
made ourselves respectable, and went off to the Governor's country
place (Spencer Wood), for lunch at i o'clock. We were introduced to
Madame, and after lunch walked about the place with Monsieur. We had a
very interesting time, as he was very good natured, and told us a good bit
about the country, &c., &c. Though, as a greater part of the conversation
was carried on in French, I did not understand half he said. Quebec is
about 500 miles from the actual mouth of the river, and the tide is felt for
90 miles above this ! He pointed out to us the very place where Wolfe
marched his army up into the plains of Abraham after making an unsuccessful
attempt on Quebec lower down the river. Montcalm at the time was in the
fortifications, and was astounded when he found the English in the plains of
Abraham, for they came there by night, and instead of staying in his fort and
saying to the English "come on yourself," he went out into the open plain,
where of course he got " what for ! " He showed us a very nice looking mare
of his who was just recovering from a nasty w^ound just above the near
hock ; he thinks it was done (maliciously) with a hatchet when grazing in the
field. There were some men mowing oats just outside the house, and they
had a most peculiar sort of rake above the scythe which caught the oats, and
then they threw it ofif when they had finished their stroke ; I could not make
out what the object of it was. We left his house at about 4 o'clock, and
walked back to the hotel, and then Joe, G. and I went to a furrier's shop
(Renfrew), it was a good one, and I believe I have seen the name in England

After looking at all their furs and askinp; all their names, &c., we invested in
some rare fjood (thouj^di not eler,fant) gloves. There were some jolly foxes'
furs, some beautiful Arctic fellows, and silver foxes ; the latter's skins are
worth 80 dollars (i.e., £i(^).) They had got some rare jolly beaver's fur ; what
jolly fur it is, I had never seen any before ; it is very like sealskin, but lighter
colour and longer hair. The sealskins they import from England ! We also
saw a cloak lined with S(|uirrels' throats; there are hundreds of the little
beggars' throats in one cloak, and it is ver}- pretty. I forgot to say that
besides the silver fox (which is blackish, with occasional white hairs), and
the Arctic, they had some others, more like our wily ones, though of a brighter
coloni, and some such fine brushes. They also had some few heads, though
no very fine ones. There was a head of the Rocky Mountain sheep, like the
horns of a huge ram, and its head is heavier than its body, so it is always
falling on its horns. The horns of the caribou are most curious, and not
pretty, unlike anything I ever saw. We saw several other skins and furs,
besides a few heads, but there were no very fine ones of the latter. We then
went back to the hotel, and after some food we found a Mr. Humphrey
waiting for us. Henri had a letter of introduction to him, as he is a partner
in a Gold Mine Company lately started out here, in which Uncle Harry has
got some shares. He asked us if we would like to go over and see the mines,
and how they are worked, &c., and as we thought it was an opportunity not
to be lost, we willingly accepted. It is 45 miles of railroad and 25 to drive, I
believe, and very rough, but he says he can promise us plenty of good bread
and butter and cream, at which didn't Joe and I smack our lips, as we have
not had real good butter once yet, and it is almost always very much the other
way. After a short stroll on the promenade we turned in and packed.

Tuesday, SOth. — The boat for the Saguenay was supposed to start at
7.30 by which time we were all aboard, but wc had to wait for the boat from
Montreal till about 8 o'clock. We went down and had breakfast as soon as
we could, and by the time we got upon deck again the river was very pretty,
especially the left bank, the right bank is the Isle of Orleans, which is 21
miles long, and in some places 5 miles broad — a nice little Eyot to be in a
river! But just by Quebec itself the river is hardly i mile broad. We passed
lots of flocks of wild duck on the right bank. The left bank seemed fairly
thickly sprinkled with cottages, and the land was cultivated a good bit. There
were some hills standing a little way back, then a lower range of hills, which
were partly cultivated and partly in their wooded state, came sloping down to
the water's edge. After about 20 miles the lower range "softly and silently
vanished away" till at length the mountains came right down to the water's
edge. After passing the Isle of Orleans there were some other little islands,
but we could not see them much as the river was very broad — about 5 or 6
miles I believe — and there was a very heavy haze, moreover we kept very close
to the left bank, which for a long way was a series of high wooded hills about
2000 feet high, which came do^ n to the water's edge, sometimes in gentle
slopes, and sometimes in rugged steep descents; after this, which lasts for a

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long time, there is a most lovely piece oi half-cultivated, half-forest land ; it is
a long lowish mountain slojiing gently down, but ending in rugged cliffs. We
went close to tliis and afterwards went down to dinner at i o'clock. When
we came up the scenery was somewhat wilder again, on the left there were
lots of little islands, and in one of these we saw the effect of the celebrated
"Mirage of the Wilderness" most beautifully in the distance, I cannot explain
it, and if I could, you would not be the least able to picture it as it really is.
By this time it was much clearer and we could see the rocky shore on the
riglit hand very well — the river (so says the guide) is 20 miles broad here, but
I know not how true it may be — later on in the afternoon the scenery was
less striking, and the colours not so fine. But the splendid scenery we passed
through before this, I cannot give you any idea of, superbly grand is all I can
say for it. It was very refreshing to see cultivated land again. We saw a
big porpoise rolling along in the afternoon. We had a rather poor sunset, and
the night is not over fine, at least there is no moon and the stars are not over
bright. We got to the mouth of the Saguenay at 8.30, and, after writing my
opinion of the St. Lawrence, turned into my berth, we had two cabins, ours
was not enormous, but the other two had quite a large room.

Wednesday, 31st. — We were astir about 5.30, and made Chicoutina at
6 o'clock, where, as we had an hour to wait, we took a bit of a tramp, but
found nothing exciting, and so returned to our ship about 6.40, when we found
them shippin,^ 'ows, and it was not hard to see that they were of French
extraction — (i) by the horrid row they made, and (2) by the brutal way in
which they treated the poor animals, one of which fell overboard, but swam
ashore and was shipped again. W^c started about 7.30 on our way back, but
began by going down to breakfast. Chicoutina is a little village by the
river's side, on the left bank going up stream : it is not particularly
striking, but the little bay on the opposite side is rather pretty. When we
came up from breakfast we were quite in the regular Saguenay scenery, which
consists of highish hills of bare rock with but few trees, except in places,
where they are tjuite thick; but there is evidently next to no earth for the
wretched trees to take root. W^e unluckily had rather a cloudy day, so had
but very few jolly lights on the rocks. The hills in some places slope down
to the water's edge, but the greater part come down in great precipices.
The hills gradually got higher and higher, and steeper and steeper, till at
length we came to Capes Trinity and Eternity, which are enormous
mountains of rock of 1900 feet, rising quite perpendicularly out of the
water without the shadow of a slope until just at the top, where it is
crowned with trees. The steamer here just went round the corner of
the bay, so close under that you could throw a stone and hit the side of
the mount with the greatest ease. You have no idea of the height when you
are under it, and I put it down at between 800 and 1000 feet, when I asked

ioe what he thought it was, and he said he had just read it was igoo feet
igh. These enormous mounts of rock end in three huge masses, which
look as if they had been piled one on the other. The mountains still

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continued to be very grand — though not so fearfully perpendicular — right up
to the end of the Saguenay, which we reached at 2 o'clock. The Saguenay
is, I believe, perfectly unique ; the scenery is — I hardly know what to call it —
"grand " is hardly the epithet, as there is such a fearful air of desolateness
about it all, and at the same time it is extremely grand to see those huge
masses of rock coming down straight into the water. From Chicoutina to
Tadousac there is scarce a house to be seen. These rocks too, I believe,
continue for an enormous way under water, and perhaps it is partly owing to
that that the water is very dark, and when contrasted by the foam which the
paddles throw up it is quite brown — very curious. At Tadousac we were
told that there was a curious old church to be seen about a mile off, so Joe,
G. and I set off to see it ; we found a short cut through the woods, which
brought us to it in less than a mile. But on our way there wc saw a very
curious perfectly white broad streak of light, just above the water, out in the
middle of the St. Lawrence, and a few minutes afterwards didn't we just
catch it ! and when we did get to the chapel there was nothing on earth to
see in it. On our way back we met a lot of people who were also going lO
see it, who accosted us variously with, " Seen the chapel?" " How far is it?"
&c. ; and one old fellow said to us, wdth a somewhat Hibernian accent,
"Is there any chapel to be seen at all?" Another old character, on our

answering in the affirmative to the same question, said, "D d if I know

what I want to go to see a chapel for." It sounds vcr}- tame on paper, but
you should have heard the way it was said, we nearly all burst out laughing.
On our way back we stopped to see some arrangements they have got for
salmon breeding. George spoke to a man in French (tlicy don't understand
English here in this wild part), and he was very much amused at the old
French the man used in replying. Henri says he has noticed that it is a very
old fashioned French they speak. Wc left Tadousac soon after 3 o'clock.
I cannot write more to-day, as it is only just ih minutes to 5, with a beastly
fog, so we can't see much of the furthest shore, wc are going back close
to the opposite shore to that which wc went going out. We have made out,
according to a map, that the broadest part of the river between Saguenay
and Quebec is about 16 miles, and at the Saguenay itself it is not more than
15 miles. Nothing particular happened since I finished writing. It was a
nasty evening, so we had our game of whist and turned into bed about 9.30.

Thursday, September 1st.— A fine morning; it is now 8.30 a.m., and
we are nearing Quebec. We take a train at 10 o'clock for the Gold Mines
and return Saturday mid-day, when we take the 5 o'clock boat, which gets to
Montrccd at 6 a.m. Sunday. Although we shall not see much of the river we
think it is preferable to 5|- hours of train, and so much cheaper.

H. S. D,

We have got about 500 boxes of bilberries on board for the market at
Quebec.

ghtup

^uenay

ill it—

iteness

2 huge

tina to

)elieve,

wing to

ich the

'c were

so Joe,

, which

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we just

;arth to

ming lO

ris'it?"
accent,
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I know

.per, but

aughing.
got for
erstand
the okl

is a very
o'clock.

I beastly
ck close
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^re than
t was a
at 9.30.

i.m., and
Id Mines
;h gets to
river we

A. S. B.
narket at

JOURNAL VIII

Thursday, September 1st (continued). — We made Quebec at 8.50, and
having put our things into the hotel 'bus, set off to see the Laval University,
where there is "the finest collection of pictures north of New York." All I
can say is, " I'm sorry for the others," as it certainly was not a marvellously
fine collection. After the pictures, of which there are about 150, we walked
quickly through the collection of machinery, and then came to the geological
collection, which, I should think, is not a bad one. After that we came to
a collection of woods, which was very interesting. There were some
splendid pieces of black walnut, some polished and others unpolished ; and
in the next room we went into, instead of having boards of about one inch
thick, as in the first room, they had just taken a small piece of a branch,
sawn it in half, and polished one side, leaving the other unpolished. There
was a most lovely piece of wood ticketed " Vinaigrier," but we could not
make out what the English for it is. There Avere lots of other bits of very
pretty wood, but this was the pick of the lot, — only fancy doors made of it !
It is a dark wood with a grain about \ inch broad, or perhaps less, and
between each grain there was a light streak ; you've no idea how lovely
it was. There were some very curious specimens of freaks of nature in the
way of trees too, one bough about 15 feet long was simply one mass of huge
knobs and bosses ; there were also some enormous fungi, and endless different
things which I cannot describe in the least. There was one log of wood with

a regular handle to it, thus

and another a stick about i foot long

with a huge ball of wood at the end of it. With every piece of wood there
was a slip of paper saying whether it was good wood or not, and what
its qualities were. I should like to have spent a long time there, but we
had to push on. The next thing was a zoological collection, which, as you
may imagine, interested me immensely. Their collection of animals was
nothing very wonderful, and very badly stuffed, but we saw a "caribou or
reindeer." I had no idea that they were the same animal. There was
also the head of a chamois. Their collection of birds is rather a good one,
I should imagine, but so badly stuffed. There was also a rattlesnake in
the collection (not of birds I don't mean ! ) ; he evidently doesn't sting, but
bites, as he had some very nasty looking teeth ; it is a pretty beast, about
4 or 5 feet long. The collection of fish I did not look very much at, but
it did not seem particularly good. There was a "mackerel shark," marked
very much like a mackerel, and about 5 feet long, not flat like the other
shark but round like a porpoise, with such a mouth. There was also the jaw

'*!

^ \

'■■Hi

of a whale. After this we went up to the library, which did not interest me

quite as much. After that we tried to get into the Ursulinc Convent, where

there is said to be a fine collection of pictures, but being unable to find out

how to get in we returned to the hotel. After seeing to one or two O. J.'s,

and having received mother's letter — for which many thanks — we took the

'bus down to the ferry, which landed us the other side of the river (Point

Levi) ; there, after a couple of miles' drive, we took the train for Beauce

Junction, were we were met by Mr. Humphrey. The line was only

opened as far as Beauce last year, and on asking the ticket man how

long a return ticket lasted, "Oh, about lo or 12 days!" Beauce Junction,

on the Quebec Central R. R., is about 45 miles from Point Levi; we

got there about 2.30. Henri went with Mr. H., and we other three in a

carriage he had brought for us ; such a trap, and such horses, and such a road —

" very good for the liver." At 5 o'clock we stopped at a village for tea — very

rustic, but so good, and oh ! the cream ! ! ! ! but the butter was, sad to relate,

not nice. After waiting there for an hour we pushed on. While we were

there Mr. H. told us a good bit about himself; he has knocked about a good

bit in the backwoods and rough country, as well as amongst the Indians, and

he can speak their language. He once went through 300 miles of desert

country, where a white man had never been before. He did it, as he, himself,

says, more out of bravado than anything else. He and some other fellows

got talking about this country, and one of them said, he did'nt believe any

white man could do it during winter, so H. said, he would try it at any rate,

but he had no idea of the distance at the time ; he took provisions for 12 days,

not expecting to be more than 9 days (his provisions were simply pork,

biscuits and tea), he also took a big blanket, as he slept out always in the

open air (!) and altogether he started with about 80 lbs., which he carried on

his back with a strap across his forehead — the regular way of carrying big

weights here ; however, instead of being 12 days, he was 17 ; he luckily

happened to hit upon a post of the Hudson Bay Company, and there he took

in a relay of provisions. He used to start walking at daybreak and walk till

4 or 5 in the afternoon, and then of course he had to cut wood for his fire.

The snow was very soft, and even with snow shoes he used to sink in nearly

up to his knees at every step ! ! This all sounds fearful exaggeration, but you

have only to hear and see the man, and hear how he speaks of it, and you feel

he is telling you the real truth, incredible though it does sound. After

waiting at the village for an hour we pushed on, and arrived at a little inn

(about 3 miles from this place) at 3 o'clock. The country we came through

was very pretty, a fair amount of cultivation (of sorts !) chiefly oats, very poor

looking and no length, and with plenty of weeds and thistles. The ground

must be fertile, as they never think of manuring it in any way. The people

have not made a bit of progress for the last 100 years. They are perfectly

content to remain the same as their fathers. The ground is all fenced off

into little bits, which are generally sown with oats or sometimes wheat or

barley, and every now and then you see some " taties " or "baccy" plant.

We had a lovely moon which looked lovely on the water in the valley below.

The country is scattered with wooden houses all along the road, and
every now and then you come across a village. Enough for " Partridge-
day." Wc turned into bed about 9.30 — very good rooms and good clean
beds.

^e any

y rate,

J days,
pork,
in the
ied on
big
uckily
took
alk till

liis fire,
nearly
)ut you
ou feel
After
tie inn
irough
ry poor
ground
people
erfectly
ced off
leat or
plant,
below.

Friday, 2nd. — I have a fearful lot to write, which may, or may not,
interest you, so you can read it or "say Moses" and skip it, just as you
please. We started with a very good breakfast a 7.30. We got talking about
Lords Lome and Dufferin, H. told us that Lome is very much liked here, he
is wonderfully honest and open, which Lord D. was not so much ; the latter
was an extremely agreeable man, and knew how and when to be agreeable,
and how for to blarney you ; Lome he says is very sincere and hearty with
you, and an extremely nice fellow. H. knew Lord Dufferin when he was
here, and seems to know Lome personally. After a very good breakfast we
started off in the traps for his diggings (no joke intended) ; his abode is wery
rough, simply a peasant cottage ; the old gal to whom it belongs is an
Irishwoman. After a few minutes we started off to see his works ; they have
only actually begun to prepare w^orks this year, although he made a thorough
inspection of it before embarking ; they have not worked at all this year at
present, but hope to begin on Monday I think. There is no " mining" about
it in our sense of the word. The way they work it is this — they have
II miles of ditch, 4 feet deep and about 7 broad, in which there is a fall of
6 feet 7 inches per mile, at a regular grade the whole way ; the reason of its
being a regular grade the whole way is in order that the stream shall not be
too strong in places and wash away the bank. I should have said that the
ditch starts by their having dammed the river and diverted some of the water.
At the end of this 1 1 miles of ditch there are iron pipes, through which the
water is conducted for, I should say, about three-quarters of a mile to the
place where they know that there is gold ; these pipes are laid down the side
of the hill and taken across the river, and at the end of all these pipes there
is a hose (of 5 inches in diameter) fixed, which shoots the water out against
the bank, this washes all the gravel and mud, in which the gold lies hid, down
into a '* sluice," which is a channel made of wood about 3 feet broad and
I foot deep ; at the bottom of this channel there are laths of wood fixed in
moveable frames, the laths being about two cubic inches, and the space
between them about the same ; the mud and gravel is carried into this, and,
owing to its enormous weight, the gold sinks to the bottom through the space
between these laths ; there is, as near as I can guess, about 50 feet of this
channel with the laths running ivith the channel, then there is another 10 feet
of laths laid across the channel about the same space apart as the other
laths ; but these cross laths are bevelled away on the side io which the
water flows, consequently there is a continual undercurrent and the fine mud
is kept always moving thereby, and the gold sinks through it to the bottom of
these laths, which I ought not to have called two cubic inches, as they are
about 4 inches deep, I now remember. After this water has been playing on
this bank for about two or three weeks with a force — ^which I will mention

-^\

m
ft ii

'■»"'|iFi_J

presently — the tap is shut and the water turned off, and they then take up
these sluices one by one (as there are about 10 separate sluices in the
channel), beginning by the one highest up, and then they turn on the water
gradually, which washes away the mud and collects the gold in the cross sluice
at the end, which is then in its turn taken up and the mud carefully washed
away, leaving only the gold and a very little mud, which is then got rid of in
a way which I will presently explain. I believe my account of the sluice is
pretty fairly correct, but that is the only part which I did not perfectly under-
stand, but I am pretty sure my account is right. The old and primitive way
which they still use when " prospecting" {i.e. when they sink the shafts to see
if there is gold about) is as follows : and the instrument is called a " rocker,"
which as it would be very hard to explain I will attempt to explain by a
drawing, though I fear my limited idea of " perspective " will make it hard to
understand.

The gravel is shovelled into a sieve (A) which lets the small gravel and
gold through, it is then caught by a piece of coarse sort of sail-cloth beneath.
All this time water is being poured on to the mud in the sieve, which
separates the small gravel from the coarse, and the whole machine is kept
rocking by means of the handle (B)— the machine being made with rounded
pieces of wood (D) like a baby's cradle. When the lower sieve, or coarse
sail-cloth, is about full, the gravel is all shaken out into a round shallow pan,
from which the gravel is shaken out by constantly taking up water into the
basin and shaking it out, thereby shaking out the gravel very gradually at the

same time that the gold sinks to the bottom ; this is of course rare delicate
work, and enormous care has to be taken not to shake out any gold; when
nearly all the sand is shaken out, (it is wonderful what a little they leave in the
pan, at least Mr. H. did,) they dry it in the sun and the sand then gets blown
away — ** et puis voila" — " that's the way we do it! " as Mr. Lynn used to say
after his conjuring tricks. I told you just now I would explain how the little
mud which was left in the sluice was got rid of — it is by this last method
which is called "panning." I should have told you that the water which
flows through the two sieves in the rocker falls down and runs out by (0),
across which there are two little laths put to catch any mud escaping
through the second sieve, which (the mud) is then taken up and put into the
pan again. I should also tell you that before the water and gravel escape
entirely from the sluice, it passes off a plate which is covered with quick-
silver, and this attracts the gold and holds it and the mud flows over it
without sticking, however, this latter arrangement had not yet been put on, so
I can't explain it very well, but that is my idea. I am now going to put down
a few statistics which I took down just so as to remember them. The
diameter of the nozzle out of which the water is thrown (after passing through
the pipes) is 5 inches, the water is thrown 150 feet, there being a pressure of
80 pounds to the cubic inch of water in the nozzle, and the amount of ground
that it will wash away is on an average about 30 feet in 24 hours ; of course
this is a very rough estimate, as it depends entirely on the hardness of the
ground to be washed. The pipes which conduct the waterfall about 200 feet
before the water is thrown out, are not cast iron pipes, but are ever so
much lighter than our cast iron pipes, being made of very thin strips of iron
of about one foot broad, bent round and round ; they cannot be as strong as
the others, but are far lighter, and consequently much cheaper to bring (from
New York), the price is 63 cents per foot for the pipes of 1 1 inches diameter
(that is about 2s. yd.) Besides this washing process, there are three other
methods of getting the gold ; one is by breaking up quartz rock which is
pulverized by means of a mill at the rate of about 50 tons per day ; this dust
is then passed over mercury, which holds the gold but lets the rest flow over.
It is considered very good work if they get one dollar's worth of gold out of a
ton ! I must say before I forget it, that one ounce of pure gold is worth
18 dollars {i.e. £^ 12s.). They have not yet erected the mill, but if the quartz
gives a good "prospect" they will put one up. Another way of getting the
gold is by roasting a sulphurate and then by some preparation of salt, but
this we did not see done, though we found some sulphurate. The last way I
will explain to-morrow (Saturday,) as they do not employ it at these Mines,
and we saw it at some others. Some of the Californian Mines cost a fearful
lot to start, one Mine in Bloomfield having as much as 100 miles of ditch ! !
and the cost of 20 miles of ditch alone in another was ;^90,ooo. Now I think
that is all I have to tell you about mining. We came back to Mr. H's house
at about 12 o'clock for dinner, and at i o'clock started off to see the end of
the ditch as far as they have worked at present — which is about two miles
from the river — Wiiere there is a stream which flows into the ditch. Very

••If

.;■■ 'i

111

1 1'

I. .i;]

1 1

lUi 1!"

luckily for us they had just made the connection with this stream the day
before, so there was just enough water to "wash " for 55 minutes. We drove
for about three miles and forded the river once which was just a trifle shakey,
as the river bed is all rocks ! After two miles more of a road — compared to
which yesterday's was perfectly smooth — we got out and walked along the side
of the ditch for two miles, to the place where' the stream enters it, there we
found Mr. H's brother in ordinary workman's clothes superintending some
men who were working a very deep part in very heavy clay soil ; they work
from 6 a.m., to 7 p.m., for one dollar per day. We drove back along the
ditch in a cart part of the way, but we soon had enought of that, so walked
back to the carriages and then drove back to the house, which, after having
heard a little about Californian Mines, we left in order to go down and
examine some of the rocks where they expected to find gold ; they broke some
bits of rock off, and after looking at it pronounced it favourable looking.
We then went up to the house again and soon after drove back to our inn,
thoroughly delighted with our day. I forgot to say that the place where they
are at present washing for gold is in the old bed of the river which — oddly
enough — flowed at right angles to the present course. By way of a cheerful
bedroom companion I had a bat in my room, and as it — my room — was not
very large or high, I jumped into bed until he took his departure and then
continued to undress ! !

Saturday, 3rd. — Awake at 5 o'clock, breakfast at 5.30, and off at 6.15
in our carriages to visit the Gilbert Mines, which lay about 4 miles out of the
way to the station. We got there at 8 o'clock, and at once went up to the
main shaft which is 93 feet deep. This we all went down into by means of a
ladder in a narrow chimney sort of place ; they have to go 90 feet down
before they find any gold, which they eventually find in a stratum of gravel
about 3 feet deep, also an old river bed. Men break the gravel away and
cart it into buckets, which are then hauled up and the contents emptied into
trucks, which are run out about 100 yards off and shot down into some sluices,
similar to those used at Humphrey's Mine. Sometimes, however, they have
not enough water to let flow over these sluices, and then they have to use the
rockers, which of course take much longer ; we saw the extremities of the
shaft which do not reach very far, and after that we were taken up in the tub,
instead of grinding up the ladder, and when we got into daylight, were'nt we
in a jolly mess ! Not the least ( ? ! ) We had not time to go over any more of
these mines for we had to be getting on, as we had still about 20 miles to
drive and 33- hours to do it in. The amount of wood which they are obliged
to use to keep up the ground above is enormous, and Mr. H. told us that the
trees get squashed quite flat from the enormous pressure above ! This kind
of mining is called " drifting," and is of course far more expensive than
" washing." I forgot to say that the water will do with three men working at
it as much as 150 men would do with pick and shovel. We took leave of
Mr. H. at his mine, and drove back to the station, which we reached at 12.30,
our train being due at 12.35, so we just had time to brush the mud off when

the train came up ; we reached Quebec about 3 o'clock, by which time we
were a trifle hungry, having had nothing to eat since 5.30 a.m. After some
food and a few O. J's we took the bus down to the Montreal boat, which left
at 5 o'clock. We received dad's letter, for which much ta. Wc read till
near 7 o'clock, when we went down and had some food, and after some
purchases of Indian-work, we set to work on our diaries, and, hurrah ! I have
finished. The Indian-work I have just spoken of, is the hairs from the head
of the moose, dyed, and worked in very pretty patterns on to red or black
cloth ; we have seen some of it before but not so pretty. They have a most
lovely bit on board, a black table cloth with a large ring worked in patterns in
the middle, and worked all round the edges — price ^^14, not by any means
out of the way I think when you think what hard work it must be, and the
hair is only about 4 or 5 inches long, so they have constantly to be threading
and '• finishing off," which latter, I will do for to night.

Sunday, 4t]l.— " Made" Montreal about 6.30 a.m., and went straight to
the Windsor Hotel, where Hope had engaged rooms for us. We found our
rooms were on the first floor, and luxurious in the extreme. Joe says he
believes the hotel is supposed to be the best in the world. After a wash and
some food, we went to the cathedral, tvhcre the service was very nicely
conducted, and they have a good organ. But the sermon was one of the
"curiousest" I ever heard, and the good gentleman had most powerful "orgins"
which he showed off to perfection. His text was from Psalms viii. 4: "Lord,
what is man, that Thou art mindful of him ? " and was evidently intended
against those who say that everything was begotten out of space of its own
accord, only by the working of nature. He explained to us how that Darwin
traced our descent from monkeys, and that of monkeys from a sort of spongy
substance, and that we got our intellect from monkeys eating nuts, &c., &c.
But you want to hear the man himself saying it to appreciate the effect.
The idea, of course, was a good enough one for a sermon, but such a funny
way to set about proving it, and the way he expressed himself, and the way
he bellowed ! ! I couldn't help thinki.ig how lucky father was not there to
hear him shouting as he did ! After church, we set to work on our diaries
till 3 o'clock, when, just as wc were preparing to set out for Hope's, his son
(Charles) sent up his card to us. We walked with him to his house, where
we sat and talked for some time, and then the son kindly showed us Gillespie's
house. He was out, however, so, having returned to the hotel, wc found out
the addresses of some other people to whom H. J. had letters; however, they
were all out. We dined at 7 o'clock with Mr. Meritt, to whom we had been
introduced at Far Rockaway; he is staying in the hotel, but leaves to-morrow.
After dinner we went and sat in his room.

ifi:;

lifei

Monday, 5th. — I got up at 6 o'clock to go and see a game of lacrosse, as
Meritt said he was going to play, and I was anxious to see the game. The
men play every morning before going to business. When I went into
G.'s room to see if he was ready (Joe had cried off, as he did not see the fun

IT "TIC

of turning out), he told me that Meritt had sent him word that it was too wet,
as it had been raining in the night. So I had nothing to do but write my
diary, and read over what I had written before.

H. S. B.

S'. ■ :i

JOURNAL IX.

Monday, 6th (continued). — Wc had hrcakfast at 8 o'clock, and about 9.30
M. Gabarncau — to whom G. had had a letter — called. Soon alter 1 1 o'clock,
after sendinnf off our budpjet we walked down to Hope's ollice, where we were
introduced to his partner (Mr, Dawson). Mr. H. himself seems a particularly
nice man, and such a perfect j^^entleman; he reminds us rather of Mr.
Lushington; he is 51 but does not look anythinj^' like that ajjje. He has very
kindly put our names down at the Club. He is goin^,' out of Montreal
to-morrow down to New York, I believe, and next year (at the beginning of the
year), he is going across the Atlantic to England and France. After sitting
there for about half-an-hour we went and called on Mr. Gillespie in his office,
he is very like Tom, though not so enormous; funnily enough he was down
on the Quay at Tadousac wlien wc stopped there on our way back, he has a
summer resort there. We then went back to the hotel, stopping on our way
at a very tempting looking fruit shop, we then ordered a carriage for 2.30, to
drive out 8 miles to see a cousin of Aunt Charlotte's who is in a Convent ; we
had left H. J. just before arriving at Hope's office, as he was going to see his
father's agent ; we expected to find him at the hotel, however he never came,
so after waiting till 3 o'clock we three went off as we had ordered the carriage,
and did not see the force of paying for it without using it. The drive was
extremely uninteresting; arrived at the convent, G. went in and saw his dear
relation (whom he had never seen before), presently they both came out, and
after being introduced and taking a bit of a stroll, we set out back and returned
to the hotel at 6.10, where we found H. J. who had not come in till 4.30,
having understood that we were going to be with Hope. At 7.30 we went to
to dine with Mr. H. at the St. James' Club, we had an excellent dinner and
one of the pleasantest evenings I've spent for a long time, we were 14
altogether, I sat next to a Mr. Hcnshaw, an awfully nice chap. After dinner
had some billiards, and got back to the hotel after 12 o'clock, after a most
enjoyable evening. In the middle of the dinner table there was an enormous
bit of ice weighing about 50 lbs! which kept the room beautifully cool.

Tuesday, 6tJl. — Dawson had promised to take us round and introduce us
to some of our business friends, so at 11 o'clock we were down at the office
and off we set; H. J. had gone to his agent's for the same purpose. We went
to two or three people, and then came back to the office where we found
Mr. H. just going off to N. Y. It was now i o'clock and we had only done
about half our visits (we had promised H. J. to be at the hotel by 2 o'clock),
however we telephoned up to the hotel, after a bit of lunch set out again and
polished them all off by about 5 o'clock; having stopped some time at a

■t

»i ,!

furrier's where G. invested in some furs and a •'caribou" head; wc wore rather
temjitcd to buy a moose head we saw, jjut wc diti not ([uitc Uke to ^ive so
much money for it; the man asked G5 dollars (-^13). After one or two more
calls we returned to the hotel. I must say I was ratlu.-r astonished when I
found out who it was we were to be introduceil to, and I fancy the oth(;r two
were also. Two or three plac(;s we went into we were told "C3h, Mr. J(jhnston
has just been here!" we aj^'reed that it would have been great fun if we hac
clashed ! At 7 o'clock we went aiul dined with Mr. Lanxiue, at the Metropolitan
Club. We were to have been eij^dit but Gabarncau did not turn up.

Wednesday, 7t]l. — Scott (to whom wc had been introduced by Hope)
turned up at 11 o'clock, as arran<;ed, to drive us out to the kennels which are
about ih miles out of the town, or rather from the hotel; Charlie Hope drove
up a few minutes after in his dofj; cart and off we set to the kennels. There
were one or two niceish hounds, thouj,di a very uneven lot altof^ether. We
then went and saw the na,t:;s, of which they at present have only four; tlierc
was one nice lookin^,' animal, the others were no very great shakes, though not
bad animals. Their first meet is to be on Saturday, they hunt till the cold
stops them, and then get two or three weeks in spring. They have the real
sport however and no beastly bagmen. Their fences arc principally posts and
rails and a few walls. After the kennels wc went to Scott's house where wc
were introduced to his father. We then went to the Club and had a big luncl
the men were mostly the same as we had met on Monday night. I got on the
subject of the Telephone with a Mr. White, and he told me that the sound of
music can be transmitted perfectly through an ordinary telephone; he had
heard a piano quite distinctly which was being played 9 miles away,!! he
promised to let me hear it after lunch but he forgot it. He gave us a
letter for a friend of his at Toronto. I forgot to tell you that we were put
up for both of the Clubs, but really we were on the go so much the whole
time that wc had no time to go and read the papers, of which I was very
sorry as they had all the English papers, including the Field. We then
went back to the hotel with Charlie Hope, as G. had arranged that
we should meet last night's friends, in order to arranc^e about going down the
Lachine Rapids together and seeing a " real Indian Village." They came
up into our room, and after chatting awhile we started to see the Lawn
Tennis Tournament, but Prevost insisted on our going and having a glass of
wine at his house on our way up there. We then went up to the ground,
where there were two, more or less, good ladies' single matches going on ;
after these were over Joe got introduced to Mr. Giddes — the President of the
Club — and he then had a game ; we watch them for a few minutes, and then
went to Hope's house to fetch two Halifax friends who had just come, and
then back (with H. and his friends) to the hotel for dinner. On our way to
Hope's from the lawn tennis ground there was a most peculiar light over the
other side of the river, it looked exactly as if a sort of yellowish-green light
had been thrown into it ; I never saw anything in the least bit like it. Some
people say it is caused by the smoke of the bush fires and some chemical

arrangement in the air ; hut nol^ody really seems to know what it is. They
hut! the same lif^ht at Toronto, and everyone was in a rare Iri^'ht, and thou^dit
the world was coniin;^' to an end. The hush lires here are sometimes very
extensive, as much as 200 miles heint^' sometimes swept away, and the effect
is felt a lonj; way off; at Toronto the smoke is cjuite as thick as a fog
sometimes. There was a splendid regatta at Tt)ronto on Thursday and
Friday, all the best scullers of the world taking part, we would have given
anything to have seen it; Joe and I did not think it worth while spending 14
hours in the train. I have just seen in the "Toronto Globe" a most fearful
account of the fires, in which it menti(jns the names of seven villages
completely swept away by hre, and the loss of life is estimated from between
700 to 1,000, while 5,000 more have been rendered homeless. But to return
to my narrative. Dinner over at 8.30 we set off for the theatre so see " East
Lynne." It was supposed to be a very pathetic piece, but I am sorry to say
it had the opposite effect on us; and one time when there was a very
touching piece and no one was speaking, we all burst out laughing. I There
was a cornet too which amused us very much. After this splendid (?) piece
of acting, although I must say one or two bits were not bad, we returned to
our hotel and then to bed.

Thursday, 8th. — Joe and I started off at 10 o'clock for a gatne of lawn
tennis, we had some fair games though I got horribly beaten, the ground too
was very good. At 11.40 we starts' back to the hotel as we had been told
that the train to go out to Lachine vas at 12.30; however, when we got about
halfway back we met Prevost and the other two (G. & II. J.) who said to us
"jump in we have only just time to catch the train," so in we got, and we
found out that friend P. had mistaken the train. We found Lanxjue at the
station waiting for us. We got to Lachine about 12.45, '^•^^ after waiting
about a bit went and had some lunch, after which visited Dawe's brewery ;
we started by the place where they keep the beer, above which they have
1200 tons of ice I we then went on and saw the making of it; they import a
great deal of our hops. We then took the steamer across to the Indian
village Kaudnawagha ! but, before the steamer went, the 3 o'clock train from
Montreal came in ; by this same train came friend Brown and four or five
other men. Arrived at Kaudnawagha we arranged with Big John to take us
back in a canoe. Big John is a well known character, and is a good man for
shooting the rapids in a canoe. We then went on into the village where we
saw a lot of Indian pigs ! we looked in at a cottage where we saw some
superbly ugly women making things with beads — real live Indians ! Then
on to the Church, and back again the same way. On our way back we went
into another cottage, where we saw the Indian manner of carrying their
babies ; they put the wretched little beast on a board, wind him on to the
board with long strips of cloth, only leaving his head uncovered, and then
this (I don't mean the head — but the board) they sling over their back.
Thank goodness I'm not an Indian baby. The next time Mr. Bugg kills
chickens I'll show you how the Indian babies are carried, and I don't think

■nam

he'll kill any more poor fellow! But to return to the "banks of the
St. Lawrence;" we all j:,'ot into Bi{^' John's canoe which was about 40 or
50 feet long and 2 broad, there were ah"eady an Indian s(|uaw and a s(|uawler
with her, six sturdy fellows sat in the bows and paddled away at the rate of
62 to the minut(; ! old B. J. sat in the stern sttM.ring. When we got out into
the middle of the stream V>. J. and his friends struck up an Indian song I
They landed us s;ifely flu- oilier side, hnving taken about 20 minutes for about
I.J to 2 miles. The Montreal Ixtat came in about 5.30 or rather after. There
is a good strong current the wlioh; way down to Monti"eal, but the rapids
themselves oid)' last lor about 5 minutes, if as much; it is certainly a. splendid
sight, but I was a little disa|)poinlcd as T llioughl they would be rougher.
They shut o(f stcairi while actually in the rapids, as of course the water itself
tak(;s you (|uite last enougl). We got a fine id(!a of the Victoria Bridge as we
came in, it is 1 •[ miles long and is built on the tubular s}stem, the architect
was K'obert Stephenson. In tlu" winter they lay some lines across the river
as die}' tluMcb}' sa\ the enormous toll which they have to j)ay to go over
the bridge;. The ic(. in the river sometimes runs as much as 2(; fe(;t thick!
We got bac:k' to Montreal at 7.5 having ]ir()mised to dine with IIop(; at
7 ()'clo( l< ; however as we had not got to dress we were there soon after 7.30.
W<; had a very jolly evening, tli(;re were C. II's. two Halifax friends and
another young fellow,

Friday, 9th. — In the morning Joe, Ci. cS; J. w('nt out and said "adieu"
to Dawson and C!harlie Ilojie and got a little " wlu-rewithal ;" we then got
one or two photos: and then Joe and I went and had a game of L. T. After
lun(di we got a trap and left P. 1*. Cs. on our friends, then back to the hotel
to finish our packing, and who should be there but Ih'own, Ik; said tlu; other
two weie coming to say good-bye to us, so of course we asked them to come
u|) while w(; paclscnl. I must not leave Montreal without putting my ideas on
j)a|)er; it is certainly a fine; town, there are some line streets, fine buildings
and private houses: it is out-and-out better than Quebec which really is a
wretched town. They have some good long streets; one house I saw
numi.ered 1,530, and I think the street went on some way after that. They
have- -besides the; L. T. club — a cricket and lacrosse club. But the great
feature is its endless churches, of which there is one in every street. The
Windsor Ib)tel too is simply jierfect, and though on a very large and grand
scale everything shows good taste, and it is really splendid ; the staircase is
exceedingly fine.

Now (5.15 p.m.) let us take our seats in the train to Ottawa, or, as they
say here, "all aboard." After we had started we found there was a drawing-
room car, and in oik; corner of the car there was a "state; re)om," whicli
we)ulel he)lel six pee)nle. ee)niff)rtably. The guard said we; coulel have it te)
ourst;lves fe)r thr(;e el(>llars more (whereas the e)relinary seats in the elrawing
room we)ulel be about twe) elejllars extra), so we took tlu; bargain, and set to
and played whist ; when, in the middle of a game, I felt a knock on the

shoulder, and on lonkiii[( ii|) found thai il was my Mlljcock- wliicli evidently
diinl<inL( it wanted eliant^e of (li)air had jninped down from alofl and walked
oul of window; however il had t^ol t( he a very asthelie c:oIour so 1 can
hear it. One station where we slopjjed some httle l)o)s were makini;" an
awful row, so as W(' moved off we. i^ave them a idass of water! and arrived
without any further exeiteinent at ( )ltawa ahoiit o o'clock I believe, hut 1
was too sleepy to he at all sm*(;. We hail teleirraphed to tin; Russell I louse,
for rooms as advised hy Mr. Humphrey, however there was no 'bus; wc
thought it " V(;ry curious," hut took a trap, and when we. j^ot there found the
house under a |)rocess of e.\|jansion ; however tlic manager received us
very politely, and put lis \\[) very coinf(;rtal)ly.

adieu "
en ji;ot
After
;: hotel
; othc;r
) come
as on
l(linfj;.s
y is a
saw
They
f^reat
The
f^rand
case is

as they
rawin^-

which

J it to

Irawinj;

set to
on the

Saturday, 10th. — Directly aft(;r breakfast wc set out to see the town.
On our way we went into a shf)[) (devlin) to ^et myself a hat. We found he

had

souk; niceish turs and heads; we jj^ol a |)air ol vcd deer* lieads lor twenty

dollars (/,'4). 'idiey are not like our red deer, the horns beini; nuich smaller and

prettier shape, I think

e also mvest(.'(l \n a heaver

d<in (

se\'(n (

lollars),

and look(;(l very hard at somt; moosedieads, but were a little .shy of buyini^^ them,
as, of course, we don't know nuich about them, and w('re cons(;c[u('nlly rather

unwilhnj.1; to pay away a lar^'e sinn oi money; however,

W(;

had

not oy any

means luade up oiu" minds //c/ to buy it, and ke[)t talkint,'' about it on and off best
[)art of the day. Alter this we went all over the I'arliament l)uildini;s, which
an; extremely fine, from llu^. outside, but the interior seemed chielly an endless
nmnl)(;r of little rooms. TIk^ ac lu.tl chamber of debate is not particularly line,
and, I thouL^lU, showed bad taste ; but the library is extremely handsome, both
inside and out. W(i went up the hi^h tower, from which W(; L,^ot an excellent view
of the town and the surroundinn^ country; we th<'n went and invested in photos,
returning.; to the hot(d for lunch. After lunch we look a lra[) and drove oul about
a mile and a half to j^ivc; a letter to Mr. I'.ddy, a match mamifacturer, to whom
I lumphrc^y had i^iven us a letter. Mr. 1'^, " ipse," was not in, so his foreman
showed us over tlu; works; but he was an awhil duller, and didn't (explain it a
bit. The performance is somewhat thus: A little scjuare block of wood is put
into a machine, which chops il up into little bits of wood just doubh; the h n;^th
of a match ; these an* then, by means of a machine whi( h I <()uld not cxpLiin,
wou^'d round with Ion;.; stri|)s of two inch broad tape into bundles of about two
thousand, I should ^uess. Thesi: biuHlles are then taken lo ,i lurnace, over
liich they are passed slowly, and then dl|iped at each end into sulphur about

one men deep ; these rolls are then taken and pressed 011 to a rcvolvmt; whet

hich is covered with the stuff that makes the hen

after thai thes(; bimdh

are unwound, put into boxes, and the sticks, whi( h are still double the lenidh of
a match, are cut, all by the same machine, in the course often seconds. When i

ay put mto boxes, I should rather say

sol

tof tr

rays ; ' these trays an; then taken

to children, who fill those abominable brown-pa|)(;r boxes at an incredible p.ice
I'hey put one of these trays of ab(nit two tlujusand into boxes in certainly less

Vir(Mnian deer,
u

•I

»l:,l

f ! ■ ■,

than ten minutes. You will doubtless think I am exaggerating, but I assure you
you have no idea of the pace they work. We then went and saw tubs and pails
being made, which was almost, if not quite, as wonderful. It is really useless to
try and explain, as I could give you no idea. After this our intelligent (?) guide
left us, and we went all over the wood-sawing, which is really marvellous. A
quarter of an hour after a tree is hauled out of the water it is either in little
boards one inch thick, four broad, and twelve long, or else in curved bits ready
to make tubs and pails, and in about a couple of hours afterwards it is made
into matches. We spent a long time looking over these works, and when we
came to look for G. to drive back he was not to be found. We at length went
off without him. We imagined he must have got tired and walked back, as he
got thoroughly sick of it before we got half way through. On our return to the
hotel Joe says. 'Well, Harry, what are we going to do about that moose-head ?'
So after consulting for a few minutes, and bringing forward c^'ery argument we
could think of for and against buying it, we determined to have one more look ;
so off we went. There were two heads which the man had said in the morning
he would sell for one hundred dollars the pair, or (we understood) fifty dollars
each ; so we got some steps and closely inspected the one which was certainly
the best. However, when we came to ask the price again, the man said sixty
for this and forty for the other (one hundred the pair). ' Oh,' we said, ' that's
ten more.' However, he said he'd let us have it for fifty, as he had misled us in
the morning ; and so the hammer was let fall, and the animal's head will soon be
on its way to H. L. We felt very happy when the weight was off our mind ;
' all we can say is, we will hope we've not been swindled awfully.' We then
wrote our diaries, and soon after G. came in, having taken a long walk. After
dinner we took a stroll, and then turned in.

Sunday, 11th. — Went to church at 11 o'clock; on our return wrote
till 2 o'clock, had dinner and then out to Rideau Hall, the Governor-General's
place ; it certainly is forlorn(e) in two senses of the word, and a miserable
specimen of a royal house. We then came back to the hotel, Joe and I by
the locks which ate on the canal ; there are seven of them, all one after the
other, with a tremendous fall ; found a jolly path along under the walls of
Parliament grounds, saw a specimen piece of a fir tree 8 feet in diameter,
300 feet high, and 566 years old. After more writing had su[)per, and more
writing yet again. Thus ended Sunday, nth September, 1S81.

H. S. B.

2 you

pails
jss to
fruide
Z A

little
ready
made
-n we
1 went
, as he
to the
lead ?'
cnt we
i look ;
lorning
dollars
:rtainly
d sixty

' that's
:d us in
iOon be

mind ;
'e then
After

wrote

eneral's

iserable

I by

ter the

alls of

iuneter,

d more

3. B.

JOURNAL X.

Monday, 12th. — We had intended leaving Ottawa at 7 o clock, and
arriving at Alexandria Bay at 3 o'clock ; however, we found the boat did not
run in the morning on Monday from Prescott to Alexandria Bay, so we had to
wait till 1 1 o'clock, when we took the train, which reached Prescott at i o'clock.

P""rom there we took the ferry over to Ogdensburg, and oh, Moses ! the gas has

just all gone out in the hotel; however, the manager tells us it will all be "fixed u]j"
in a minute. In the meantime we have seized upon a portly nig., who is bearing
some lamps. And now to proceed. As I was saying, we took the ferry over to
Ogdensburg, thence the steamer for Alexandria Bay, which we reached at 5.30.
Alexandria Bay is on the American side of the St. Lawrence, in the middle of
the " Thousand Islands," so called from the innumerable amount of small islands
which extend for about forty miles in the St. Lawrence. There is one very big
island, but all the rest are quite little things. There was a very thick haze,
almost amounting to a fog to-day as we came down ; so we could not see over
well, although it looked extremely pretty. The islands which we passed at first
were not at all high — just like huge slabs of smooth rock raised a few fet;t above
the water-level, and sloping down so gently that at times you could hardly see
at first sight where the water actually ended. We passed countless numbers of these
little islets of various sizes and shapes, some merely rocks raised above the water-
level. About here they rise high and more precii)itately out of the water. The
general appearance is extremely i)rett3\ After having seen our things deposited
in our rooms we took a little sculliuLif-boat and went cruisinL{ about the islands
till about 7.15, when w^e came in for supper, after which, having made our
arrangements for a little steam-launch to cut about the islands, and two little
boats, which we shall tow behind and fish out of when so disposed, we came up
here for some writing, and now to bed.

Tuesday, 13th. — We were to have started at 8 o'clock, but owing to the
steamer's not being ready it was 9.10 before we were "all aboard " and steaming
up the river St. Lawrence in a very jolly little steam-launch, the " lone." After
steaming for about one hour up the main stream we turned off into "Eel Bay,"
a huge bay also full of islands. By the way, you might like to know that
Mr. Appleton (the Guide-book) says : "According to the treaty of Ghent j whatever
that has to do with it I cannot say ] these islands, which extend for forty miles
beyond Lake Ontario, are 1,692 in number," and are all sorts of shapes and sizes,
varying from fifteen miles long and about three or five broad down to mere rocks
which raise themselves but a few feet above the smooth, rippling flow of the ever
onward current ! The autumn tints have just begun to show themselves, and

'^
*

tl^

Il-ll

the colouring was at times awl"ully pretty. Sometimes these islands seem to
glide, as it were, into the stream and at another they come down in steep,
rugged cliffs. After steaming for about twenty minutes in Eel Bay we got out
of the launch into our two little boats. G. and Joe in one, and Henri and
I in the other. We got our trolling-lines out and trolled for " pickerel " (?) ;
but we were not very successful in our boat, as, after trolling for two and
a half hours we had only three or four fish to show, whereas the others
had nine. Somehow the fish didn't seem to care about me, as I never had
a sign of a nil^ble ; however, I didn't much care, as it is very tame sport
landing them, for they are a stupid fish, and directly they are hooked you merely
have to haul your line in as if you were pulling in a bit of wood. They are rare
nice fish for the pot, however, as we afterwards discovered. Having landed, we
proceeded to gather sticks and brushwood for a fire. In the meanwhile our two
fishermen were preparing the fish, and in a few minutes a very picturesque group
might have been seen, composed of four hungry mortals watching two other
mortals (also hungry, I guess /) frying first some j)ork, and then some fish, in the
fat of the pork over an enormous fire, while the clouds grew blacker and blacker
all round, and at last descended in a good sharp shower, which, however, soon
dwindled away into a steady drizzle, which also, in its turn, gave way to a bit of
a fog, and left us with very little wind and a beautiful day for fishing. Having
watched the first panful of fish fried, we took it on board the steamer, which was
moored about thirty yards off, and proceeded to devour it, and, oh ! crummy,
wasn't it good .'' Soon afterwards some cxccUoit boiled praties were brought ;
add to this some very good bread and butter, a few ginger " bickies," some tip-
top lager beer, and afterwards some not half-bad coffee, and you have (though I
am sorry to say for yoiL only in imagination) about the best dinner you ever
tasted, certainly the best I've tasted for a long time. .So good was the fish that
Joe said, " I was sorry I cotildnt cat any mover which was also my sentiment.
After we had done, our two cooks (the captain and the engineer) sat down and
satiated their " pangs," while I tried to catch a cheeky little gudgeon, which,
however, only laughed at me. At last I tried Simple Simon's dodge, and fished
in the pail (!) for a gudgeon, which was alive and kicking ; but even then I was
unsuccessful, and so returned to the water again, but with no better success,
though (so beautifully clear was the water) I could see a little beast playing
round my bait, which was a minnow. As soon as the men had satisfied themselves
we set out in the same order as before. We went about a quarter of a mile away,
and then dropped anchor. The others were the first to drop anchor, however ;
and almost before we had got our tackle out G. had a good bass, then imme-
diately afterwards two at once. By this time we had got our anchor out, but
with no great success ; and we kept shifting our position till at last we got on the
right spot, when I got a little one, and very soon after a beauty of three pounds.
I wish you could have seen the awful stat':; of excitement our man got into ; and
at last when he had run out, as a last struggle, he said, "It was beautifully
landed, never saw a fish better handled in my life." So perfectly true — as I had
only hauled the beast straight in, without playing it at all. Very unsportsman-
like you will say, and so indeed it was ; as afterwards, though I never had such a

big one on again, I had great fun playing them ; I never thought I should care for
fishing half as much. After about an hour, the others moved off in hopes of
better ground ; but not being successful, they spent the rest of the afternoon in
trolling. In the meantime, we were having very good sport ; and by 5 o'clock
had landed fifteen black bass, two pickerel, and one sun-fish. The man caught a
few, but not many, as he smashed his rod early in the afternoon. At 5 o'clock
we took to our launch again, and steamed back a different way ; in.jtead of going
down the main stream, we went in and out among a lot of little islands near the
Canada shore, and were back at the hotel a little before 7. We counted our fish,
and found we had eighteen pickerel (we had eaten four small ones besides for
lunch), twenty-eight bass, and two sun-fish. The steamer was 12 dollars
(£2 Ss.), not at all out of the way we thought when you consider that one has to
pay ^5 for one on the Thames. I enjojed my day nwsi thonwghly\ and never
thought that I should enjoy a day's fishing so much ; though I don't think you
will catch me sitting on a Windsor chair in a punt on old Father Thames just yet.
The shooting here must be very good I should fancy. In another month, we
are told, there will be thousands of all sorts of duck. We also saw no end of
hawks, sea-gulls, and kingfishers; the latter are not like ours, they are a larger bird
and not so many-coloured, being, as far as I can see, a greyish bird with a black-
crowned head, the tips of their wrings striped black and white. They also have
cranes and eagles, and, I believe, herons ; also a kind of partridge, though not
much like our English bird ; they also get teal, and three or four other kinds which
I forget now. Before we turned in Joe inquired about getting on to Toronto, but
found that it was much simpler to go to Niagara first, and then afterwards cross
the lake to Toronto. The man also said he had got two tickets for Niagara which
he could let us have for half price (/. c. seven dollars for the two tickets instead
of seven dollars each). These tickets are called "scalp tickets," as Humphrey
told us ; and it is simply this, some one takes a ticket to a place but wishes to
stop for some time at a place on the road, so as these tickets are good for a
certain number of days, he sells it for as much as he can get for it, generally about
half price. At some places there are regular " scalp ticket offices." By the way,
this reminds. me of rather an amusing thing Humphrey told us : he said, " Very
often if one is going to a place it will be cheaper for one to take a ticket for a
station 200 or 300 miles further on, and the reason is simply this : the place you
wish to go to is only accessible by one line of railway, whereas the place 200 or
300 miles further on is accessible by two or three, consequently, owing to the
railway war now going on, they make the fares to the latter place as cheap as
possible, so as to get passengers on their line, and to make up for this they stick
the price on for intervening stations." He once did this, and it saved him an
awful lot — something like eight or ten dollars I think it was.

"Wednesday, 14th. — A truly terrible day up to the present time (8.20
a.m.) We started at six o'clock, and there was a bit of a mist hanging over
the water, but nothing at all to speak of. However, before we had gone one
hundred yards we got into a thick bank of fog, and went at — (Hullo ! w^e're off
again after waiting here for nearly two hours ! but, excuse this interruption) — I

'<.

TTTT^

was saying — leastways, I was about to say — we went on at half speed ; then on
again — but — Joe's looking over my shoulder, and says, " We're not off," and I
find they arc only fidgeting about the engine to keep it from getting rusty.
I was about to say " Then on again ; " but only to come to a dead standstill,
till at last we found ourselves aloncrside of an island where we have been for
the last two hours whilst I've been writing this. Now for some leapfrog to
keep up our spirits — Tally-ho! But instead of leapfrog we had some very
exciting fishing, having been lent a couple of rods. However, we were not
over successful, and all we caught was three rock-bass of about half a pound
each. At about 9.30 the fog began to lift very gradually, and it was not till
10.20 that we heard the welcome cry of "All aboard!" and off we started
"back agin the same Avay." In about a quarter of an hour we found our-
selves once again in the Thousand Islands Hotel (having come back again,
as it was no good going on as the tram left Cape Vincent about 9 o'clock —
arriving at Niagara Flails at 7.20 p.m.) Our next chance of getting there
was by taking the 2 o'clock boat to Cape Vincent, which connected with the
5 o'clock train at St. Vincent, which, we were told, would land us at Niagara
next morning. In the meantime, Joe, G., and I (H. was writing) took a boat,
went off to a little island, where we fished for some little time. Finding we
caught nothing but stupid little rock-bass, which we put back again, Joe and I
took a dip, and then sculled back to the hotel. By this time it was 12.30, so
we had some dinner, which we were quite ready for, as you may imagine ;
after which we sat on the terrace till 2 o'clock, when we tried another start,
and this time got safely to Cape Vincent about 5 o'clock. By i o'clock it
was a glorious day : the fog had quite gone off, and the sun came out strong.
The scenery to Cape Vincent was at times somewhat uninteresting ; but the
greater part of it was lovely. At first I didn't see much, as we were going
directly towards the sun ; however, I presently got up in the bows with my
back to the sun, and the result was perfect. I got a lovely light on the
woods, which were already putting on their autumn clothes. The woods came
down quite to the water's edge, and I fancy I can see one place now where
the land ran out some way in a sharp point with trees up to the end. There
were the autumn tints just appearing among the dark green firs, and the
white bark of the birch breaking the monotony of the latter. As we passed,
the wave caused by the steamer broke on the rocks. It was the most perfect
picture, I think, I ever saw ; and to complete it the soil was a sort of lightish
yellow colour. I think the colouring on the whole was some of the most
perfect we have yet seen.

Arrived at Cape Vincent, we took our seats in the train, and on the guard
coming round for our tickets, we asked where we should take on the Pullman
cars, to which he replied, "There are no sleeping cars;" and then told us we
should have to pass the night at Oswego ! that the train we had intended
taking straight through to Niagara had stopped running on Monday, and we
could not get on farther than Oswego to-night ! After about an hour we
had to change at Watertown, where we found out that we could not get on
to Niagara till to-morrow night by taking the 12.35 ^'^^^'^ {^•^•> the same which

vvc should have taken had wc not been stopped by the (og), which gets in
at 7.20. It was a rare nuisance, as you may imagine. However, there was
nothing else to be done, and after one more change we reached Oswego at
8.20, where we put up at the Lake Shore house, which, however, is about
three quarters of a mile from the Lake Shore.

Thursday, 15th. — After breakfast we strolled down to the Lake; Oswego
seems a rather large town with, as far as we saw, some fme streets and, oh ! such
peaches ! ! After our stroll we came in to write, and are now just off to Niagara
by the 12.35, which, however, didn't actually get off till past one ; instead of
reaching Niagara at 7.10, it was past 9 I believe before we reached the hotel.
We passed through a great deal of burning woods, and at one time we saw in
the distance an immense long line of fire. We had to get out at the American
side, as, though there is a suspension-bridge over which the train goes, it is not
near the Falls themselves, as the river is too broad for a railway-bridge, but there
is a very handsome suspension-bridge 1268 yards long, for carriages. Arrived
at the hotel (Clifton House), wc washed ourselves a Ijit, and, after some food,
strolled out to see the Falls which are lighted up by electric light ; we walked
up to the Horseshoe Falls, where, having got soaked by the mist from the fall,
we returned to our hotel and to bed.

Friday, 16th, — Exactly two months since we left Liverpool, I shall not
of course attempt to give you any general idea, as it would be — to say the least
of it — utterly useless ; but I shall probably just put down things as the thoughts
occur to me, so I warn you that it will be a very scratchy, and j)robably imin-
teresting account. The best way will be to tell you it in the order we saw it.
We took a carriage directly after breakfast, and told the driver to " show us
everything." So we first went to the rapids of the whirlpool, passing on our
way the old suspension-bridge, which consists of a railway-bridge above (the trains
have to go at foot's pace) and a carriage bridge beneath ; there are 8000 miles
of wire used in it (so the newspaper of to-day says). Soon afterwards we came
to a place placarded " \\'hirl[)ool Rapids ;" here we descended from our carriage,
walked through a shop where all sorts of "souvenirs" were being sold, and
after paying 50 cents (/. c. two shillings) each, we walked down about 200 feet,
when we came to the rapids : one raging mass of roaring water rushing along at
a fearful pace, and sending up enormous waves of spray, which were caused not
by the rocks underneath, as of course one imagines, but by the force of the
under current struggling to the top and meeting the upper current, the water
being 250 feet deep here ; for about a quarter nt a mile I should imagine you
see this surging mass ; I cannot describe my feeling when I saw it, but I don't
think I shall ever forget it. The breadth is, I should imagine, as far as I can
now remember, rather less than a quarter of a mile. We then went on about
a mile to sec the whirlpool ; here the same thing — 50 cents and down the
"elevator" {i.e. " lift " ), down a steep incline of forty-two degrees. Arrived at
the bottom, we walked a short way to a point from which we could get the best
view of the whirlpool ; the river comes rushing down its headlong course, turns

if'i

5= i I

r hi

Mil
Ij ;

'li '■

^^•■IHB

an angle which is all but a right angle, and you see the river (or, as it would
perhaps be more accurate to call it, the torrent), for a long way down, one long
line of almost continuous foam ; of course, the effect of this sharp angle is to
cause vast whirlpools in the middle of the stream, while the current on the
opposite side to which the water flows away is all a very strong back current,
though in some places there is next to no current at all, and in one place, where
the current is about medium, we were astonished to see some wild ducks
swimming about. After this, up by the elevator, again to the carriage, which
then took us to the "Table Rock," or, rather, where the Table Rock ^?rt' been,
for it fell away some years ago. This brought us right back to the Horseshoe
Falls, which are a quarter of a mile across and three quarters of a mile measuring
all round the fall, which is 150 feet high, and the depth of volume of water
pouring over is, at the thickest, 30 feet thick. Here we paid one dollar {i.e. 4J".)
each for the pleasure of putting on some mackintoshes and being taken by a
guide, to whom we had to pay 50 cents each, down a lot of steps and under a
side shoot of the Horseshoe Fall, when we were told to look up but were pre-
vented from seeing anything at all by the spray which kept driving in our
faces with awful force ; of course there was a shopful of souvenirs. After this
our coachman took us to the "Burning Spring" on the "Cedar Island," from
which we had a very good view of the " American Rapids " and " the Three
Sister Islands ; " the river is here two miles wide, and the rapids extend for
about a mile above the falls. Just a little way above where the real " Rapids"
begin there is an island called " Goat Island," which divides the river into two
streams of rapids, one, which we did not see from Cedar Island, ends in the
" American Falls" and the other, which, as I have said before, is the " American
Rapids," ends in the " Horseshoe Falls ; " these are about at right angles with
the direction of the stream above, which arrives at these falls by means of a long
sweeping curve. When I say that they are at right angles to the stream, of
course, being of a curved shape, the whole cannot be at right angles to the
stream, but the greater part is. I am afraid that is very unintelligible, but I hope
I'll be able to make it clear with a photo which we purchased at the " Burning
Spring," where, of course, there was also a shop, and where, of course, we also
had to pay fifty cents each. This Burning Spring is an ignitable gas which is
given off from a spring which comes bubbling up some few feet below the
surface of the earth ; the gas is collected in a cylinder with a pipe sticking
out, from which the gas escapes and is continually burning ; but to show us
that it is no humbug, this cylinder was removed and a piece of lighted paper
held down to the surface of the water, which immediately set fire to the bubbles
of gas which kept coming to the surface. This was discovered about ninety years
ago by some men having a fire there, when the gas caught fire. After this
we returned to the hotel, and then, as we had another hour to wait till dinner-time
(it was now 1.30), we went up to the top of one of the suspension-bridge towers,
and then returned to the hotel, where we invested in a most wonderful pipe for
old Free, and then went and had dinner.

Having done everything on the Canadian side, we went over to the American
side ; the toll (there and back) across the suspension-bridge was only two and a

, I

half dollars (ioj.)! The first place we went to was Prospect Park, — fee, as usual,
fifty cents. This park is between the suspension-bridge and the American Falls.
We went down the elevator right at the bottom of the Falls, but, not wishing to
go under the Falls, we contented ourselves with braving the spray, and conse-
quently got soaked. G. and I, under a certain amount of shelter from my
' brolly,' boldly pushed on to a point from which we saw nothing more, but only
got more soaked. Then up again by the lift, and then to a place which was right
at the side of the Falls, in fact the water washed the wall of the parapet on which
we stood ; this was about the best idea we had got so far of the volume of water
flowing over. From this we went to " Goat Island," and stayed there the rest of
the afternoon, visiting the following points : — First, the opposite side of the Falls
to Prospect Park, from that to the Cave of the Winds, where we again went
under the F'alls, but this time under something like a fall, and not a wretched
little dribble like the other side. We first divested ourselves (after paying one
dollar each) of all our own garments, put on some coarse serge things, cari)et-
sllppers, and a " sou-wester ;" we next descended some steps, and after about fifty
yards came to the falls of the Cave of the Winds ; it is a continuation of the
American Falls, but separated from them by a small island. We followed our
guide down some steps, with the water pelting down on our heads pretty hard ;
it rather took our breath away at first, and H., not caring to have any more,
retired. After a few steps down we came to some slippery rocks, where there
was not much to hold on by, and of course a heavy shower of spray drenching us,
though not falling from above with such force as at first, but more blown back
from the water falling. It was a little bit bogey at first, and rather made one
hold one's breath, but when accustomed to it, it is really nothing. After about a
hundred feet of this we came out on the other side, and walked across the rocks
in front of the Falls. When just in front of the Falls the sun shone out strong,
and we saw, what I had never heard of before, a complete circle of a rainbow,
formed in the spray. The colours were very bright, and there was a part of a
second bow. We got back to where we had started, walking down the steps under
the Falls ; by this time we had got quite accustomed to the pelting water, and
liked it very much. From time to time, as we went along, we kept looking up
at the enormous volume of water flowing over, and it gave us some very faint
idea of what the volume pouring over the whole extent of the " Horseshoe" Falls
must be. The volume here is twenty feet thick ! and the distance from the
falling water to the rock is sixty feet, though the actual '^ shoot'' is not as much as
this, as the force of the wind and the spray combined has worn away the soft
rock underneath, and it consequently overhangs somewhat. This of course gave
us the best idea that we had at all of the volume of water flowing over, even that
gave us but an extremely poor idea of what it really must be ; in fact, it is utterly
impossible, I believe, to have any idea of the real volume of water. You may be
told that there are so many millions of tons, but then it is utterly and entirely
impossible to imagine ox picture to yourself this enormous volume, — at least that is
my feeling. After this we went to a point where we stood right alongside of the
Horseshoe Falls, and watched the Falls for a long time ; in most places you cannot
see above halfway down the Falls for the thickness of the spray, and in one part

Iff

of the fall the spray sometimes dashes about fifty feet above the top of the fall
itself. [Tin's is the part marked with an A /// the diaqravi.)

Perhaps this diagram may possibly help you to understand the positions better.

I don't know if this will make it any clearer to you, but I will hope so.

After this we went to the Three-Sister Islands, which are connected to the
mainland by bridges from one to another. We had a splendid view of the rapids
here, which are a most marvellous sight. After standing there for a long time,
we returned to the hotel at 6.30. After an hour's writing had some su[)per, and
soon afterwards some more writing, then to bed, as it is now past 1 1 o'clock.

Learned people say that the Falls are gradually retreating, because the back-
current of the water washes away the rock underneath, which is a soft kind of
rock, and then the upper part falls down. I have been also told that the force of
the water falling down is so oreat that it does not come to the surface till half a
mile afterwards ; I don't know at all if this is tru^-, but am inclined to believe it,
as the stream looks so comparatively calm on the surface near the Falls.

Saturday, 17th. — I just want, before I forget it, to correct some of the
previous statements as to distances. I ha\e just been measuring distances care-
fully on an authentic map downstairs.

Distance from Horseshoe Falls to the New Suspension Bridge

Distance to second {i.e. old) Bridge from b\dls, over which

train passes .........

Distance to the Whirlpool Rapids from Falls, about

Breadth of the Whirlpool Rapids ......

Distance to the Whirlpool from Falls .....

Length of New Suspension Bridge, \ooofcct, and not 1268 yards.

mile.

2^ miles.

mile,
miles.

2 1

We had intended leaving at 9 o'clock, but on second thoughts decided to wait
for the afternoon boat to Toronto, so as to get one more look at the; Falls ;
accordingly, about 9.30, G., Joe, and I (H. stayed at the hotel to do his writing),
took the ferry across to the other side, where we took the elevator, which landed
us at Prospect Park. Our ferryman told us that on the 5th three Englishmen
had swam the river just above the new suspension bridge : one of them was
W. Ainslie, a New College man, who nearly got into the 'Varsity this year. He
also told us that the water which flows over the Falls doesn't come to the surface
till the Whirlpool Rapids, which are about 2\ mik^s. I feel certain that the
water cannot come to the surface before the new suspension bridge, as, although
there were a good many currents where we crossed — just above the bridge — I
should think the water coming to the surface must make the surface a great deal
rougher than it was there. So far from disbelieving the statement on the pre-
ceding page, that the water does not come up till ^ mile afterwards, I now
begin to think I must have misunderstood my informer (who was a young fellow
about my own age on the coach from Glen Falls to Lake George), and that he
must have said 2^, and not .^ a-mile. But before one has realised to a certain
extent the volume of water that falls, it is hard to believe the half-mile state-
ment, because it seems such a long way ; but now that I have realised the volume
to a certain extent, it is hard to believe the half-mile statement, because it seems
such a short way. I really should like to know the real truth. But to continue.
After standing at the corner of Prospect Park for a short time we went on to

'.■\\

fll

Goat Island, and struck across the wood to the Three Sister Islands. On our way
we saw some of the finest trees we have yet seen : one, a hazel, we think, beings
about 18 feet round, an enormous heiLjht, and as straij^ht as a line. There were
several other trees, but none; so fine as this ; but all these wn lch(!d peo[)le here
think of is swindling one; out of one's money, so the i)oor trees, instead of
being looked after, are in such a happy jumble that they nearly all die. Joe
and I went and sat on a rock, from which we had a most perfect view of the
Rapids for a h^ng time. We went to one or two other points, but from none did
we have such a splendid view. It was such a perfert treat to get away from
all the snobs and Yankee " doers," that we could not tear ourselves away from
it, and it was about 11.30, I think, before we wended our way to the edge of
the Horseshoe Falls. Before I go farther just let me put down three words
about that .s/Zcv/^/Zr?' sight, which I think I tv/y'^'ir^jf more than almost any part of
Niagara, chiefly, I think, because we wi re alone and not bothercnl by that awful
foppery which had so disgusted and sickened me of the whole thing that I could
only thinic yesterday, O, dear, how glad I shall be to get out of this place ; but
now my itleas were quite different, and I only thought how delightful this is.
For 2 miles across it was one mass of rushing, foaming, roaring water. About
500 yards higher up-stream we were so nearly level with the water that a fall of
about 10 feet, which extended in a broken line for nearly the whole 2 miles
across, hid the rest of the river higher up from our eyes. We were about three
quarters of a mile above the Horseshoe Falls, and the whole distance was nothing
but this foaming mass, in some places more and in some less boisterous, except
a piece of, I should say, about i}, acres, where there was but little water, and it
ran rippling along rather than foaming. But the grandest bit by far was about
80 yards from us. where an enormous wave rose up and then rushed headlong
under the mass of foam caused by the backllow of the water. The only thing
we regretted was not to have had the moon on it ; but there is no moon now,
though, of course, we had splendid moonlight nights at Montreal, when we
couldn't appreciate them. We tried two other rocks, but from neither of them
did we have such a view ; I never knew anything grow upon me like that did.
When it came for, " Now is the time for disappearing," G. was nowhere to be
found ; so we went on to the Horseshoe Falls, and having stood there for some
time, moved on to the falls of the Cave of the Winds and the American F;i"
At each of these places (as, indeed, we had been at the Horseshoe Falls) wc ^
but one or two feet from the water as it flowed over; then back to the I '
we found G., who had missed us and got back to the hotel soon after o'cloLi
On our way back we stopped in the middle of the bridge and looked at ,he spray
rising from the fall. There was scarcely a breath of wind, and the spray 'as
going straight up ; it looked as if it went some hundreds of feet above the top of
the Falls before dissolving, but it was perfectly impossible to see where spray
ended and clouds began. How glad I am we waited for the afternoon train,
which left about 4.45, and took us about 14 miles to Niagara Falls' Town, on
Lake Ontario. Here, after waiting about one and a quarter hours, we took the
boat across to Toronto, which we reached about 9.30 p.m. There was a regular
heavy swell, and what with the stink of the dining saloon and the rolling of the

boat, I felt much more like hcluif sick than ever I diil on board the " Scythia.'
However, I am happy to stale I arrived saf»; without one accident, and after
rcadinj^^ T. \i. H.'s father's letters of the ist inst., and afterwards M. l\ B.'s of
4th Inst., turned in, and slept souiully. Our hotel is the " Queen's."

Sunday, 18th. — After half-andiour's writlni^ went to church, back a'^aln
for more writing-, then dinner at 2 o'clock, when we hail a most amusin^^ black
waiter. After dinner we strolled up to Mr. Allen's [)lace. Moss I'ark (he is the
gentleman to whom Mrs. Mountain Ljave us a letter). Unluckily the father was
out of town, but the son received us very kindly. They have tj^ot a very fine
Wapiti head, and an enormous moose ditto ; but the horns of the latter are not
very large in comparison with the head, lie has also got a splendid collection
of Canadian birds, which he kindly showed us ; it was very interesting, as I was
thereby enabled to find out the; names of some birds we had seen (lying about.
He had a most I'lioriiious wild turkey, and some very fine owls and endless kinds
of ducks. He had also a very good collection of Indian garments, and different
things they use of all kinds ; and some paintings also of Indian costumes. After
a bit of a stroll round the town — which seems very fine, with some exceedingly
fine streets and some fine buildings — we came back to the hotel, and here my
diary must end//v tcDi.

Toronto is a very rising town ; commerce to a great extent grain. In 1871,
the population was 70,000, and this year it is 100,000; an increase of 30,000 in
10 years. It is a very rival town of Montreal. I may as well finish this off
now " I guess," as we shall not do much more than have supper and go to bed.
We have got a delightful old Paddy chambermaid.

H. S. B.

) clue
spray
ly ^-as
top t>f
spray
I train,
wn, on
ok the
regular
of the

Iff

(

:»■:

JOURNAL XI.

Monday, 19. — After breakfast, Joe, G., and I set out to see the people to
whom Hope had sent us letters. But before doing so we went to the office of
the Lake Steamer Company ; and after a little talky-talky, ended in taking four
tickets to Duluth by the Sarnia Line steamer, which would leave that place at
9 p.m. the following day and reach Duluth Sunday morning. This done, we
went on our visits ; and luckily found them all disengaged except one. You
must not suppose by this that we finished them all straight off; far from it, for
what with going into an exceedingly good bookseller's where they had every
imaginable English booK — down to the " Grosvenor Gallery Notes," and going
into every bookshop we passed to see if we could get vol. i. of Appleton's Guide,
but without success, and trying to remember half-a-dozen addresses at once, we
kept running backwards and forwards over th(i same giound about half-a-dozen
times in the course of the morning. However, we at last got it all over, and
returned to the hotel at 2 o'clock for luncheon ; after which we took a trap and
drove through the park to the University. The latter is rather a fine building ;
they had rather a good collection of birds but most infamously stuffed, and the
collection of butterflies and moths was very badly kept. There are only about
three hundred students ; and the course — like that of Harvard and, indeed, I
fancy, all the 'Varsities this side — is four years long. We took the ferry across
to the Island to see a Mr. Murray, to whom Mr. White gave us a letter. We
had been informed that he was a character, and had travelled a great deal,
having been three times round the world. He now seems to live a most idle
and unenviable life ; apparently doing nothing but live in an exceedingly primi-
tive way, and do nothing all day but loaf about in his shirt-sleeves, smoke, and
drink whisky. He has, however, got some land in Ireland, and gets his rents
pretty well.

By the time we got back to the hotel it was about 7 o'clock ; so, having had
dinner, we set off to the Grand Opera House to see " The Banker's Daughter."
It was a decided improvement on Montreal , and there was a killing specimen of
an American tourist, who made us roar with laughter — he took off the Continental
American to the life. When we get back to the hotel, we heard of the death of
the President. Poor man! fancy suffering all that time only to die at last! The
actual end seems to have been very sudden, as he does not seem to have been
worse than usual till half-an-hour before his death. Some of the headings of the
papers were very absurd, one paper had its column headed " Dead at last " in
huge letters. The next morning we saw a paragraph of two or three lines, dated
Sept. 20, London, England, saying that the news had caused intense excitement
and sorrow for Mrs. Garfield I At first we thoui^^ht it was all humbug ; but

had
hter."
len of
lental
thof
The
been
•f the
/" in
dated
:ment
but

afterwards reflected that It was possible, as we are six hours in advance of you in
England.

Tuesday, 20th. — We were to take the 12.15 train via Grand Trunk
Railway, which would get us to Sarnia at 6.30 p.m. Accordingly, at 11.55
(having spent the morning in writing), we went down, expecting to find the
'bus ready; however, we waited till 12.10 and no 'bus appeared — when we
asked the reason, were told that the 'bus was down at the station awaiting the
arrival of the train, and would then come back for us, as the train waited some
time. It was about 12.30 before we left the hotel, and we were not off till
about 1.20 instead of 12.20! We found ourselves in the dirtiest and most
uncomfortable carriage I ever was in. While Joe was seeing to the luggage,
I ran about trying to ascertain if there would be a Pullman or Drawing-room
car on ; I asked at least half-a-dozen men, and they all — at least those who
deigned to answer me at all — gave me different answers : at last we got hold
of the " boss," who was in plain clothes, and found out positively that there
would be no Pullman on. At one place where we stopped there was a list of
trains put down from and to different places, stating whether they were in time
or late, and out of the four trains put down there was one up to time, two one
hour late, and the fourth an hour and a half late : we were about an hour late !
So that was an average of one train in five up to time ! We reached Sarnia
Station about 8 o'clock instead of 6.30. The station was close to the Lake,
so we went and tried to find our vessel to put our things aboard, but were told
that she was lying about a mile further down, and would not be up for two or
three hours ! We returned to the restaurant, and had some food and a wash ;
and when, having learned that the boat was a quarter of a mile down we went
off in search of her, and at last found her taking in freight, and, as it seemed,
only having just begun. However, we went aboard, got our berths, and then
returned for our bags ; having procured which, we marched back v/ith them,
half killing ourselves with stumbling over endless articles, and falling down
steps which we couldn't sec, &c. &c. — notwithstanding, we arrived safe aboard
at last, and having asked, for about the fiftieth time, what time we should start,
got the usual answer of, " I'm sure I don't know;" however, we found out that
we should not get off till some time to-morrow morning ! as we had to finish
taking freight on here, then we had to go two miles down to Sarnia for more,
and then come back to the station for more ! Just as I got into bed, about
1 1. 15, we moved off, I suppose, to Sarnia, but next morning —

Wednesday, 21st — found us still about half-a-mile below the station,
and no one knowing how soon we should get off ! About 8 o'clock we moved
on, but only to stop a little below where we got on board, in order to coal,
which took till past 12, and at last we moved off, and are now going about
one mile an hour — if as much — in one of, if not t/ic, ugliest and most unwieldy
of craft you, or rather I should say, / ever saw. We are not likely to be
overfed ; the feeding at breakfast was something too beastly, coffee absolutely
undrinkable, not even any eggs on board ; and at dinner, which was certainly

A
I

.1.

an improvement, we asked for some beer, and were told they had only water !
So the first place we stop at we intend to get some. Nothing exciting happened
during the afternoon, and we lolloped along through the mist at the usual
rate of about a mile an hour. At 6 o'clock we had tea, which was no greater
success than breakfast — everything beastly dirty, and with an odour that
savoured of having been washed in greasy water. At 7.50 p.m. we stopped
at a place the name of which sounded like "Porridge;" here, as we were to
stop four hours, we went ashore and tramped about the town or village till
9 o'clock, when, having invested in nine bottles of lager beer, we returned
to our noble craft, and I was soon in the arms of Morpheus. About the middle
of the night I woke up to find it blowing in at our window like fury, and we
were rolling about in fine style ; having tried in vain to shut our shutter, so
as to keep off some of the wind, I wrapped myself up in my blanket, and was
soon asleep again, and did not wake up till 6 o'clock the following morning —

Thursday, 22nd. — To find that we were lying alongside of a stage taking
in a somewhat mixed cargo. After our lively breakfast, Joe and I went and took
a little stroll. On returning I went and had a look at our cargo, which consists
of about everything you could possibly mention — from a steam-launch, about 20
or 30 feet long, to a beastly, noisy cock. Everything looks as if it had been
chuckecl down and allowed to find its own place where it liked. Besides the
above-mentioned things we have two or three traps of sorts ! ! ( I have since
found we have twelve), a plough, a machine for cutting up turnips, about a dozen
cows, six horses (who at present seem to be having a most fearful stampede), and
I think I heard some pigs grunting just now. This is all I can remember at
present, but I'm sure there must be endless curiosities. Of course, we have got
no end of tubs, and barrels, &c. &c. Add to this a most curious collection of
people, but not a single decent person. I really must go and see what those
horses are about, as it is only about 9 o'clock a.m., and I've no more to say for
the present. We have not yet moved off from where we stopped this morning.
Well, I went down below, and, O ye gods! what a chaos met my eyes! the horses
were not having a stampede exactly, as they have not even room enough to
whisk their tails ; but one beast, having laid back his ears, was screaming at the
top of his voice and trying to make a meal off his next-door neighbours. The
horses numbered 15, the cows and calves over 20, about the same number of
sheep ; the pigs I only heard, but George tells me he saw them being rolled
along in a barrel^ so I guess we shall have sausages soon. Two or three turkeys
also, and about six boxes of chickens, and ducks, and geese, trampling on one
another most mercilessly. Besides this and what I have mentioned before there
were a few bags of flour, some bits of harness, bundles of hay, a little rowing boat,
a lot of boxes and trunks, cart-wheels, firestoves, iron rails, and I believe a lot of
other things, but I can't remember them now. These were all hurled about in a
most indiscriminate manner, so how on earth they get them off I don't know. We
moved off about 10 o'clock. I forgot to say the name of this place is Kincardine,
and the name of the place we stopped at last night is " Goderich," and not
Porridge. Our next place of halt was Southampton, which we reached, as far as

horses

gh to

lat the

The

)cr of

rolled

irkeys

one

there

boat,

lot of

in a

Irdine,

not

Ifar as

I can now (Saturday) remember, about i o'clock. Here we .shi[)[)ed more cargo
of all sorts, including a tailless cow, some few horses, and a cart or two ; but
where they all got to goodness only knows. We stayed there about one and a
half hours, and not 35 minutes, as the captain had told us we should. We
had no more stoppages for the rest of the day, which I spent in reading and
writing. We were out of sight of land the whole time as we were making
for Manitouline Island, which we passed at 3 a.m. next morning.

Friday, 23rd. — I was very sorry, as I have heard it is very fine. At
8 o'clock we touched at a little place called Hilton, where we took on a little
more of the same sort of cargo, including a man and a woman with a very
queer-looking bundle done up in a sheet. This boat must really be elastic, I
think. We didn't stay here long, but set out onward on our journey through the
river which joins the two lakes. It was extremely pretty, and very much like
the " Thousand Islands," as little islands were sprinkled about all over the place.
The passage, however, was extremely narrow, and needed some pretty fine
steering : in some of the places there was only just room for the boat to get
through. We saw and passed a lot of vessels being towed from one lake to the
other, laden principally with iron ore from Sui^erior. We saw no end of wild
duck and gulls, and some few other solitary ones, amongst which was the Loon
or Great Northern diver. These lakes are pretty full of fish — salmon trout,
whitefish, and pickerel ; but there are not many beavers : they like the small
lakes and rivers better. After some time of this wild-island scenery we came
into a much broader expanse of water ; but still the channel was extremely
narrow, and marked out very indifferently by red posts. We had to take a very
circuitous line in this broad expanse, which brought us to a narrower part again,
more like a river. The view when we got into this broad expanse was ex-
ceedingly fine. At the far side from which we entered was a long, low ridge of
hills with a lovely sort of purple colouring, to which the passing clouds added a
great deal. When we got well into the broad expanse, and afterwards into the
narrower part, the scenery was still more lovely, but almost entirely, owing to
the exquisite colouring of the trees which had well begun to put on their autumn
tints. I have seen colouring on a small scale before, but never saw it in such a
mass. The whole length of this ridge of hills was one mass of colour, in
which bright red prevailed ; but on looking through the glasses one could
see almost every shade of every colour. We could not make out what this
bright red colour could be.'" I wish I could give you an idea of the colouring,
but it is impossible. I can only say it surpasses anything I have yet seen.
Luckily, dinner was rather late, and by the time we went to feed we had passed
it all, and come to a very uninteresting part ; and almost before we had done
dinner we were alongside at the English side of Sault St. Marie. The captain
told us we had an hour here, so we went ashore, and strolled about the some-
what uninteresting lanes and woods. On our way back we came across an
exceedingly pretty bird, which we have since learnt to be a blue jay. He had

* This was, as we afterwards <liscovered, owing to there being such a quantity of the maple, which turns to this
brilliant red. The oaks, too, turn to a most lovely crimson, instead of to a brownish yellow, as with us.

1 1

<* 1

■if

not long been dead ; cause of death unknown ; verdict, pronounced it suicide :
so we took his wings and tail, and left him helpless in " de middle ob de road."
Arrived at the steamer, we found them struggling hard to get the steam yacht
out. That, or something else, detained them two and a half hours more ; so it
was past 4.30 before we were off to the American side, where the captain said
we should stay about an hour, cr, if it was dark before they had done, we should
stay there all night ! So we again went ashore. The American side is much
more of a place than the Eng.ish. They are both quite small villages. We
strolled through the principal street to the locks, which have been made to
complete communications between the Lakes, as there are some mild rapids for
a short distance. There are two separate sets of locks, and are both very fine.
One has been in use twenty years, and consists of two big locks ; and the other,
which has only been open a month, is one enormous lock, having a fall of
eighteen feet, and forty-two feet deep in all ; the sluices and gates are worked by
steam. While Joe and I were talking to the lock-keeper, a man — bearing a
very Indian type — came up, and asked us if we would like to shoot the rapids.
We were rather afraid of accepting, on account of missing the boat ; however,
we had had an idea of what the captain's "hour" was like at all the places we
had hitherto stopped at, and as the boat had to pass through the lock, we
thought we should have time, and so off we went. The other two had gone
back to the ship. Two men manned a canoe about fifteen feet long and three
broad made of pine-wocd, and the cost of which is about fifty or eighty dollars
{z'.e., ^10 or ^16). They shoved us up at the side by means of poles, and on
our way we learnt that these Indians do little else but fish all summer, and
depend on their summer earnings to carry them through the winter, although
they do a little fishing through the ice, and shooting. Having taken us not
quite to the top of the rapids, they turned, and then down we came at a jolly
pace, scarcely shipping a drop of water, although on our way we often heeled
over pretty considerably. When we were just started on our downward course
we found that the boat was already in the lock, so as soon as we got ashore we
took to our legs and ran, and just caught her as she moved off. The captain
was in a fearful rage, and swore horrid. He was awfully riled because the lock-
keeper had told him to wait, and wouldn't open the gates till he saw we were all
right. G. and H. told us they were just casting off as they got on board, they
having stopped to buy some more beer on the way back. But the captain, after
all, had not so very much to complain of, as f. om the time we stepped off to the
time we were on board again, and steaming at of the lock, was only one hour
and ten minutes, though of course it 'i^.'as a nuisance to be kept waiting. But we
certainly had a run for it, and people stared at us like wuld beasts when we got
back. We had a slow bit just after dark, as there was a steamer towing four
vessels just ahead of us, and we had some difficulty in passing them, as
the channel was very narrow, although we were in a very wide expanse
of water.

Saturday, 24th. — (B. H. B.'s birthday). When we woke up there was a
thick fog and pouring hard, however the rain soon stopped and the fog "bobbed

icide :
road."
yacht
; so it
1 said
should
much
We
ide to
ids for
y fine,
other,
fall of
ked by
iring a
rapids.
)\ve.ver,
ices we
ck, we
id gone
i\ three
dollars
and on
r, and
though
us not
a jolly
heeled
course
lore we
[captain
le lock-
Ivere all
Id, they
In, after
to the
le hour
iBut we
I we got
kg four
[em, as
[xpanse

was a
)obbed

up serenely." We spent the morning reading, and while so employed, a wee
little birdie — a green linnet, I think — appeared on the deck and strutted about
very happily ; he came on and off two or three times and then " moved on." We
have been under sail all the morning, as the wind is dead astern and the
waves are a fair size. About 7.30 p.m. we touched at one of a many groups of
islands in the north shore, by name Silver Islet ; Joe and I went ashore for
about an hour ; and about half-an-hour after our return we were off again and on
our way to Th-mder Bay, where we touched at Prince Arthur's landing about
11.30, but lo'jg before that we had turned in.

Sunday, 25th. — Found us on our way to Duluth, coasting along the shore
with a strong wind straight in our teeth, so that we scarcely seemed to move.
There was a good heavy sea (or rather " lake") on, and we were chucked about
like a cork. The coast was somewhat monotonous, being one long, unbroken
slope of trees, which had already put on their autumn tints, and their colouring
was very fine, though quite different to that of the day before : here it was
yellow and green, and none of the bright red of the day before. We got talking
with rather an interesting man early in the morning ; he said that beside salmon,
trout, whitefish, and pickerel, there are also herrings caught in these lakes,
larger than sea herrings. The way they fish through the ice is as follows ;
they make two holes through the ice some distance apart ; through these two holes
they put a piece of string, of which they fasten the two ends together and then
haul away, so that the fact of hauling the line out of one hole hauls it into the
other, and in this manner they catch " lots and piles." We were told by the
captain that we should reach Duluth about 8 o'clock, however, owing to the
roughness of the lake and the headwind, it was 12.30 before we came along-
side, and not a trap to be had, or a single person to show us the way to the
hotel, so we were forced to wait till next morning, at which, as you may imagine,
we were no/ best pleased; however, there was nothing to be done but to take
off our boots and to lie down on our unmade beds. To me, personally, it made
very little odds as I slept like a top.

Monday, 26tll. — After waiting for about an hour for the customs' officer,
he at last appeared, and we intrusted ourselves to the 'bus of the Clarke House.
Arrived at the hotel, we found it was only 7.15 instead of 8.25, as Joe's watch
made out. I say Joe's watch, as it is the only one in the party to be trusted, as
the sight of the Windsor Hotel, Montreal, was too much for mine and it has
stopped short ; G. never knows whether his is twenty minutes fast or slow, and
H. J.'s is like my own. Joe's watch was right at Toronto, so there is one hour
and forty minutes between Duluth and Toronto. We had a wash under some
difficulties, and it was, I must own, not very extensive. After this we had some
breakfast, and then took a stroll up the hill at the back of the village till the
effect on our nasal organs forced us to retire, and we found the 'bus waiting to
take us to the 9.30 train. Duluth is, comparatively speaking, a very important
little place of about 3000 inhabitants, as it is the place where everything and
everybody for Manitoba comes from or to, who wishes to go East by the lakes.

» 1

■K*

They are now very busy making the Canada Pacific Railway, which was begun
twelve years ago, but some few years ago it hung fire for a very long time, and
now they are just taking it up again ; it will open the country wonderfully, and even
now emigrants are pom'ntg- into Manitoba. This line of railroad will extend as
far as the Pacific, as its name implies. We were pretty punctual in starting ; the
passengers were, I need hardly say, somewhat of the peasant type, and, of
course, there was the inevitable baby, and my word, what organs he had !
Soon after leaving Duluth, the scenery became extremely pretty ; we were going
along one side of a valley, down which was a stream of dark brown water, as we
went on up the valley the hills were less high and the stream became a torrent ;
at last we saw, just below us, some /ove/y raj^ids tearing along : the whole scene
was very grand, the colouring too lovely, as the leaves were turned very much.
The railway itself twisted and turned about like a snake, and we went over some
very slender bridges, although generally not very long they were some height,
and we had to go over them at foot's pace. This hilly scenery did not last more
than about an hour, but the rest of our way lay through most lovely woods —
lovely because their colours were so splendid, but as to timber there was next to
none, as the forest is all wild and left to grow at its own sweet will and pleasure ;
consequently they are huddled together, and there is not a single tree of any
size. For the latter half of the way it was entirely oak, or very nearly so. The
ground api)earcd very moist, as we passed endless swamps and marshes. The
country seems utterly desolate, as the whole time we were travelling through
these woods with hardly a sign of habitation visible. At one time we were the
only people in the car, and we never had very many. When I was very much
interested in Ouida's " Moths," I had a most perfect instance of Yankeeism : a
man came and sat himself opposite me and began questioning me as to where we
had been and were going ; and as he got very little " change " out of me that way
he began as they always do — telling me all about himself, where he lived, where
he had been, and was going, &c. &c. He got rather tired at last of doing all the
talking himself, and so moved off to some one else. But it was so thoroughly
Yankee the whole thing. It was almost word for word the same as the con-
versation between the Americans in "The Tramp Abroad;" he (Mark Twain)
certainly knows what his countrymen are like. We n^ached St. Paul exactly at six
o'clock, actually punctual ! ! Would you believe it ! ! We went to the Metropolitan
Hotel. On our way up we found all the shops decked out with mourning, and at
the end of the principal street there was a black arch erected with various in-
scriptions on it ; there had been some sort of procession I fancy, as the late
President was buried to-day. After a bit of a stroll we returned to the hotel, had
supper, and then waited about till our rooms were ready, as the hotel is crammed.

Tuesday, 27th.— I little thought last year, when treading the grapes, that
the next 27th would be spent here — but such is the will of Fate! At 9.20 a.m.
we took a trap and drove to Minneapolis, the sister-town of St. Paul, about ten
miles distant ; stopping at the Minnehaha Prills on our way. But the road for
the first two miles ! it's a disgrace to the town. The mud was something in-
credible — not liquid, but solid ; and holes ! it was absolutely impossible to trot.

IS, that
20 a.m.
)ut ten
)ad for
ing in-
to trot.

I declare our roarls at the Gold Mines were far better; there you con M trot, while
here it was iin[)()s.sil)le. There is no earthly excuse for it, as they have splendid
metal at the very roadside. The drive was very pretty, as the hills on the
opposite side of the river were covered with trees in their autumn tints, and
there were lots of birds of different kinds (lying about. At about 1 1 o'clock we
reached the falls, which are nothing much : and with all due respect to Long-
fellow, 1 think he might have spent his time much better by immortalising
something else. We rambled down along the little brook for a short way, which
was very pretty and " too-ral loo-ral," with no end of blue-jays and kingfishers
flying about. We got back to the carriage soon after 12, I think; and then
went on our way to Minneapolis, which we reached somewhere about i o'clock.
After dinner we set out to see the flour-mills, which are enormous. We walked
across the river (Mississippi) ; and seeing a large building we thought we would
try there, but were told we must get an order from the office on the other side of
the river. So off we set for th(^ other side, where we got an order to go over
Pillsbury's Mills. The scene from the middle of the bridge is a sight; one huge,
tumbled mass of mills and buildings of all sorts, shapes, and sizes. Besides flour-
mills, they have also saw-mills ; and half the river is a mass of floating timber.
These pc^ople seem to think of notJung but making money, and things are
huddled up in a most slipshod manner. As to the streets ! the one in which
there is all the mill traffic is over the horses' fetlocks in clayey mud : I could not
have believed it had I not seen it. Well, having got our tickets we trudged
back again ; but when we did get in we found no one to show us over them, and
so we roamed about, looking at things but unable to understand anything. We
went up to the top of the building — six or seven stories high — and at last, after
roaming about, we saw the boss, so we asked him if he could kindly tell us some-
thing about it. He said he would be "most delighted." The first thing he did
was to take us to the top of the house to see the view, and then we came down ;
but he was very little use, as he gave us no voluntary information, and all we
found out was by asking endless questions. The whole building is a mass of
machinery, all worked by water. The wheat is first crushed, and then passed
through various stages of fineing, until it comes into beautiful fine flour, which is
passed from one stage to the other by means of elevators, all worked by steam
and not handled at all. This doesn't give you much of an idea, but it is about
all I know. They make 2,000,000 barrels of flour per annum, which takes
10,000,000 bushels of wheat ; but how many bushels there are in a barrel I don't
know. Having been all over the mills, wc returned to the hotel where we had
lunched ; and having found our cocker, set out on our way back. We left at 5,
and got in here at 7 o'clock. Two hours for about ten miles ! After supper we
did a bit of writing, and then turned in.

Wednesday, 28th. — After breakfast Joe, G., and I, went off to see the
Fountain Cave, which G. was very anxious to see. We took a trap and drove
out about two miles, when we wt out and walked down to where a little
stream flowed into the river ; there was nothing to indicate the way ; so we
followed a track along the water's edge ; the Matterhorn was a joke to it, and I

! I

* ■ i

made sure I was in one time, but some friendly boughs and bushes saved me.
We then found we were on a false scent, so retraced our steps, and soon after
came to the mouth of the cave, which we entered, but there was nothing on earth
to be seen, so after the other two had got their boots in a nice mess, they came
back, having got about twenty yards further. We then returned to our trap,
and got back to the hotel at 10.30, and after a bit of a -stroll, returned and wrote
a bit.

St. Paul is a fine little town of 50,000 inhabitants. It was only founded in
1839, but was only a trading-port till 1854, when it numbered 3000, — an increase
of 47,000 in twenty-seven years! It has some fine streets, though, like all the
towns they are very badly paved, or rather, in most places they arc not paved at
all, but are a sort of muddy clay. We left the hotel at one o'clock for the 1.35
train to Chicago, in which we are now sitting, waiting I think, for a train to pass
us, as it is only a single line. Now we are off Well, we travelled through
some lovely scenery, at least the actual scenery was nothing particularly striking,
but the colouring of the trees was too lovely, especially when the setting sun lit
them up. There was a fearful lot of water out, as they have had a deal of rain
here lately ; and at St. Paul's the Mississippi had risen eight feet. After the
first hour or so we followed the course of the river pretty closely ; it is not
particularly pretty and very monotonous, the opposite side being lined by a ridge
of, in some places, steepish hills, but as flat as a table at the top, and it was not
till a bare patch of a rock was lit up in a most marvellous manner by the setting
sun that they in themselves called for much attention, but that light was truly
lovely, being a sort of delicate rose-tint, but alas ! " The roseate hues of setting sun
how fast they fade away." About 7.30 we stopped at Lacrosse for supper, which
was very good and well arranged. Before arriving there we were struck by a
peculiar freak of nature. A mass of bare rock, some hundred feet high and
perhaps three-quarters of a mile in length, rose sheer up out of a perfectly flat
plain ; it was very curious and unlike anything I had ever seen. There were
one or two other places where little patches of hills rose up and continued for
about one and a half or two miles, but in none of them did they rise so high or
so precipitously as did that first one. We travelled very comfortably in a Pullman
car, but the smoke from the engine was awful. After supper we had a rubber
of whist, on a beautiful little table fixed into the side of the carriage.

Thursday, 29th. — Arrived at Chicago at about 8 o'clock, only one hour
late this time ! We entrusted ourselves to the tender mercies of a 'bus, which
landed us at the Palmer House, where we found letters awaiting us (father's
of the 9th inst.). After some breakfast and a wash, we set out on our way
to leave letters we had received from a Mr. Esdaile of Montreal, and also one
to Mr. Pardee, to whom La Montagne had given us a letter. This good
gentleman had just returned from a shooting tour on the south-west coast of
Lake Superior, where he and a friend had got ten deer and two black bears
in three weeks, besides wild duck, partridges, and trout-fishing. We are to
drive round the city with him to-morrow morning. We went to three or
four other people to whom we had letters, one of whom — a Mr. Geddes —

hour
which
"ather's
ir way
so one
good
3ast of
bears
are. to
ree or
des —

we met just coming out of his office and off to the Stock Exchange, where
he took us, and then rushed into the thick of it, saying, " You can stand up
behind and sec- what's going on." We did stand ui) for a minute and sec what
was going on, but none of us were much the wiser, so we sauntered on towards
the hotel ; but on passing an oyster-shop we thought it would be nice to taste
some American oysters, so in we went — all I can say for them is, they are very
big ones. We then returned to the hotel, took a trap, and told our driver
to take us the Lakeshore drive. On our way we passed the waterworks, which
are enormous. There are four wheels, the largest being 27 feet in diameter,
which between them pump up over 74,000,000 gallons of water in twenty-four
hours. It is all most beautifully kept. From there we drove round Lincoln
Park, along the shore of the Lake, and got back to the hotel at 5 o'clock.
While we were looking to see if we could see Dick Gardner's name on the
book, we received a note asking us to go to his room at 6 o'clock and dine
with him. In the meantime we roamed about the hotel in vain looking for a
writing-room. This is a most awful hotel, a regular enormous thing, and no
less than nine stories counting the ground-floor. It is just like amaze; you
want to stay here about a week to learn your way about ; the noise and bustle
is something quite too- too. But to return. As we were sitting writing we
heard a thunder at the door and in walks Dicky ; he was in a great state of
excitement. He had come out with another English fellow, or had made
friends on board, I'm not sure which ; and he also had an American friend
whom he had met here. We went down a few minutes afterwards, and while
we were having dinner a Mr. ScofK^ld came in ; he is superintendent of one
of the pig-sticking firms. He is an Englishman, and came out here ten months
ago, having gone a mucker whilst in the Royals ; he happened to go down to
the pig-sticking, and the "boss" asked him who and what he was. He told
him he had come out in the hopes of making a fortune somehow. The " boss"
said he would give him seven dollars a-month as a common workman, he
accepted, and now he is " boss " of the packing, earning his 3000 dollars
a-month, or ^7200 per annum. After dinner we went with them to another
enormous hotel for a " liquor up," and then left them and went to Haverley's
Theatre, where we saw Mr. John M'Cullough as " Virginius." It is a fine theatre,
and some of the acting was very good, especially that of Mr. M'Cullough, who
was over in England a short time ago.

Friday, 30th. — We were to have gone out driving with Mr. Pardee, but
he weather was unkind, and he didn't turn up, so we went round to him ;
he had found out the address of a Mr. Washbourne for us, to whom we went.
He is a good fellow, and most kind to us. He took us over one of the
"blocks." The whole town is on this "block system," which is simply that
a man buys a piece of land and runs up a big house of five, six, or seven
stories, and then lets the rooms out as offices, and charming offices they are
too, so beautifully light and airy, A block like this needs of course large
capital, but when the cost of building is paid for they bring in /"4000 per
annum clear profit. We went over two of these blocks, when Washbourne

r!l

.■-^

left us and vvc went back to the hotel ; having put on our old clothes, we
set out for the stock yards, which are 345 acres in extent. The lar^^est in the
place is that of Armour's, who at present kills 8,000 pi<^'s per day, and in
winter 12,000; as they reckon that each pig brings them in from 80 cents
to a dollar clcay profit, you see it is no bad business. The "boss"
of the firm retired last year, having made 80 million of dollars, that
is to say ^16,000,000. (I have not put too many o's!) Scoficld had
given us a note to the " boss " of the killing at Armour's, so we went straight
there. We could not find him for a long time ; at last we saw him presiding
over the sticking. But the odour ! ! My only chance of keeping // .' down
was to smoke as hard I could, and both my ocular and nasal and some
other ( ! ) organs were sorely tried. The pigs are driven out of their pens
up an inclined plane, which lands them into another pen in which there are
two men, who hook them by a hind leg. They are then hauled up, sent
along by means of a wheel which runs on a rail, when a man cuts their
throats and then shoves them on a few yards, where they hang kicking
and squealing for about half a minute, then, being dead, they are dropped
into boiling water ; they stay in this tank about a minute, and are then
passed through a machine which takes nearly all their bristles off. They
next pass through a succession of hands, each of which docs a little something
and passes piggy on to the next man, who in his turn does a little something,
till at last piggy finds himself on the rail again with his exterior beautifully
clean and washed. He then passes on to some more hands who relieve him
of his " in'ards," and I think, of his head. He is then sent down a long
rail into a cooling room, where he is shipped on to another set of rails,
here he is left for two days, after which he is sent into a freezing room
where he remains for two days and a night, when his shoulders and hams are
chopped off, and he is salted and packed off. It is marvellous the accuracy
with which they chop off their shoulders and hams. The sides are rolled on
in barrows from the freezing room and are then placed on a huge block, on
each side of which stands a man with an immense chopper, which he raises
above his head and brings down always in exactly the same place. The sides
are then carried off to be salted ; but before the hams and shoulders are
taken away a man chops off the trotters, and this is almost finer work than
the other, as he has of course to be very exact in taking just the knuckle.
The various little bits of piggy are mostly cut up for sausages, of which
we saw all the different sorts being made. The bits of meat are put into a
huge tub, which turns round, while saws, or rather hammers with little
choppers on them, come thumping down on the meat, which is thus chopped
very fine and then passed through an ordinary sausage machine. The great
big ** German " sausages are then cooked. Nearly all the meat is salted and
shipped off; the only fresh meat they sell is to people who come and
take it away in their carts. Every now and then a pig gets into the
boiling water without being stuck, consequently he is drowned in it ! ! and
d:"es without his blood being tapped, thus making the meat not good, and
this — called "sweet meat" — (just because it isn't sweet) is sold to the

long

are

than
ckle.
hich
ito a
ittle
iped
rreat
and
and
the
and
and
the

niggers ! I saw some of the sides (salted) packed off loose without being
put into boxes. Wc saw one or two other processes ol" packing besides
those I have mentioned. We couldn't find out as much as I should have
liked as our little guide was somewhat " ga ! ga ! " and whilst in the slaughter-
house my mind was too much taken up with my own feelings to take it all in
very well. I never saw such a ghastly sight as those wretchiul brutes hanging
by their legs squealing and wriggling, with the blood pouring out of their
throats. All the employees are the most cut throat-looking brutes I ever
saw, and the way they illtreat the poor beasts is really too chsgusling. But
the biggest looking brute is the sticker ; such an expression you never did !
This good gentleman gets from four to seven dollars per day ! Besides
the packing I have mentioned we saw piles of tins ready packed, but
we did not see them being packed. Having seen as much as wc wished
of Armour's place wc enquired for Scofield, and after a long search found
that he belonged to another firm about half-a-mile away, so off wc went
to see him. They had just finished killing for that day, but he told
us one or two things of interest ; he showed us how they make lard
by putting the fat into a cylinder surrounded with boiling water, and
when made they run it off into barrels and sell it at 7 pence per 1 lb.
The amount of lard now used in this country is something prodigious.
He then showed us the guano which is made up of all the refuse
of the pig, hair, bones, &c., &c., &c., so nothing is wasted. He said the men
are a fearful independent lot, and just come and go whenever they like. The
pigs themselves are chiefly from Pennsylvania, and are fine sturdy looking
chaps, principally black, a few brown. They are not very big, are short in
the leg and snout, but very .broad in the back. The stock yards are capable
of holding 25,000,000 head of cattle altogether, counting the pigs (which
number highest), oxen and sheep. On leaving Scofield we went to see the
oxen slaughtered, which was less horrid to look at, though the way the poor
beasts are treated is too awful; they are driven up an inclined plane into
narrow stalls, two in each ; when about 15 stalls are full, a man comes with a
rifle which he holds a few inches off the beast's head and then fires, death is
generally instantaneous, though sometimes he doesn't take a good shot and
while the poor beast is kicking he polishes it off with another. The door of
the stall is then opened, the beast dragged into a room where he is flayed and
cut up with marvellous rapidity ; but we did not trouble to go and inspect
them as wc had already had too much of the pigs, and did not feel at all
inclined to go through it all again. They kill about 600 oxen in a day,
sometimes 700. The beasts come all the way from Texas and Colorado :
an enormous herd of them is driven up very slowly by two or three
men and some dogs, as far as Kansas City, where they take the cars up
to Chicago. They are miserably thin animals, the greater part of them,
though some feiv are fine and sturdy looking. Wc naturally wondered why
they are brought all this way to be killed, Washbourne said it was because iron
and machinery, and other necessary appliances, are much nearer at hand here,
and consequently the cost of transporting the animals is much less than that

1: ;

I '

I'll

,. ...

^ifl

of transporting all the material to the south would he. The oxen skiughtcvlng
belongs to Armour as well as the pigs. About the " muttons" we heard and saw
nothing, and 1 fancy the slaughtering of them is not so extensive as the others.
We were delighted when we had done it all, as it is a truly sickening sight,
though it undoubtedly is the trade for "making a pile," as they say here.
The train for the City did not leave till 4.30, so \vc had time to replenish the inner
man, which sorely needed it. We got back to the City at 5 o'clock, and went to
the ** Exposition " for an hour which was extremely Interesting. Every year
there is one which lasts for two months. It is a general Exhibition of every-
thing from different towns. We did the ornaments and furniture, some of
which was extremely nice. They have got all the latest patterns of china and
ornaments, but if this is an Exhibition of their best furniture, as Washbourne
says it is, it doesn't come up to the English and French. They have, however,
got some lovely folding beds. We then passed on by the billiard tables and
musical instruments, to the fruit which seemed very hnc, but the ferns, palms,
&c., where simply worthless. There was also a corner very prettily arranged
with corn of different sorts. Then we went to the carriages which are not
exactly our idea of nice carriages ! also passed by different implements and
bits of machinery ; there was a large collection of ice implements, and one or
two rubbish stalls. We returned to the hotel, when Dick and his English friend
came up to our room, and at the same time a man brought Washbourne's
card up. So we went down and saw the little man who had brought his
cousin, and after having supper with Dick and his friend, went off to the
Exposition again. This time we. went to the farming implements, which
interested me immensely. There was one most ingenious machine which cuts
the corn and ties it up in bundles, everything being done by machinery, even
the tying of the knot ; and it only wants one man,* who also drives the horses.
We next took a trot round the gallery, but there was nothing interesting.
After which we went up to the top of the building by an elevator, from whence
we had a very pretty bird's-eye view, when we were turned out. I will finish
off here, as we have an eiarly start to-morrow.

H. S. B.

1 ii?

;ht,

JOURNAL XII.

Saturday, October 1st.— After breakfast we set out to see one of the
great corn elevators, where they store the corn, previous to shippinfj; it off.
The corn is brou^'ht (m trucks into the buikUnj^, where they are unloaded in
seven minutes. The corn is next taken up to a bin, where it is weighed, and
then passes into another bin, where it waits till shipped off. It is all done by
machinery. Seven trucks are pushed into the building by the engine, and
while they are being emptied, all at the same time, the engine shunts seven
others into the building on another line, so there is no time lost ; and they
keep on unloading the whole time. I forget now the number of bushels they
ship in a year, but the storeage capacity of some of these buildings is
54,000,000 bushels. They are taking it in all the year round, but always sell
the corn of the previous year. " Corn " over here means maize, and not
wheat. The Company, whose building we went over, ship all their corn to
Ireland, where the head of the firm has got an agent. No, I am wrong
there, now I come to think of it ; I was confusing the pigs with the corn!
It is the pork which is shipped, to a very large extent, to Ireland by Armour ;
but most of the corn is sent to Europe. The latter comes principally from
Illinois and Iowa States. The number of bushels per acre is generally about
40, but this year it has only been 20 bushels to the acre. Its price varies
almost daily from 36 to 70 cents. Those are the two extreme prices. At
present it is at 70 ; the price the farmer sells it at being 50 cents per bushel.
Wheat, which is grown up in Manitoba, Dakota, Wisconsin, &c., averages
from 60 cents to one dollar 42 cents, and the number of bushels per acre is
about 50. There were two buildings belonging to the Company whose
building we went over, one was for maize alone, and the other for all kinds
of grain. After this we went to get our tickets for Louisville, and on our way
we had a blow out of delicious fruit, most of which comes from California.
We tasted good grapes for the first time since we have been here ; all the
others came from Michigan, and are very nasty. We then went to bid
farewell to Pardee, and returned to the hotel for lunch ; after which we again
went to the Exhibition to see some more of the agricultural implements, of
which there was a large collection. There were a lot ot sheaf binders, all
very much like one another, with some light difference. There was also a
collection of sculpture and pictures. We went through all the latter, some
of which were really very good, but the majority was rubbish. The city, in
1837, contained 4,000, and now the population is over half a million! The
big fire was in 1871, and tlicy had another smaller one in '74. The town, in
spite of its enormous business, is very fine ; the streets (some of which are
from three to seven miles in length) are very fine, with some splendid

■i'

buildiiifjs, and arc fairl) well [)av':'l with worxl on the whoh;, tlioii;^^! in soiiic
plact's it is t(.'rriljly lumpy. TlKtrc is ph.-Dly of life in iIkj streets, and
everyone seems to have ;i, husine-ss look ahoul him. d. ;uid I n.-turnerl
from thf; l'.x|)osition .at ..hout 5 o'clock'; If. ;iii(l jjerlie li.id left before.
When I j^'ot lo our room, ihinkin;^' to finish my diary, I found Washbourne's
brother, who had very kindly come up to see us. lie did not leave till 5.30,
and insist(;d on our l:avinj:j a cocktail with him before paitin^. AtH.iowfi
W(;re on our way to Louisville, by the Illinois (j:ntral K. \i. Wc travelled
shockingly, bein<^ da.nced up and down lik(; a parched pea on a drum, but
nevertheless I slept like a t(jp.

Sunday, 2nd. — We ou;:^Hit to have reached Louisvilh^ at 8 ;[,.m., but, as
usua.l, wc were i\ hours late. There was not a shadow of a 'bus, so we
had to wait till a tram |)assed, which put us dcnvn at the (jalt Ib)use, liy
the tin)e we had finished breakfast it was 1 1 o''J(K;k, so as church was out of
the question, I went a'ld had a 'I'urkish bath, as tluire v/ere some in the
hotel. At I o'clock v/e lunched, and then weni oiit and to';k a tram whicli
landed us at the cemetery. After roannn^^ about tlM:re w(. caine back by the
tram t(j the other end of the town, and then back U) the IioKjI, havinrj spent
a most interestiii;^' afternoon runninj.^ about a very /r/?inter<;stinj^' town, 'iduise
American towns are awfully monotonous, as all tlie stn^ets run N. and S.,
VV. a.nd \i., cons(;fjuently all cut onc' an(jther at rij^lit ; iii^l(;s. Imaj^ine these,
v.'ith a lot of tele^^raph j)osts jvered with imiumerable wires running from
one (.nd (>( the street to the other ; a lot of trams v/ith horses (or mules)
h.aving tinklinj^ bells; add to this some huge hot<;ls, a, post office;, hall a doxen

churches, sometimes a tftwn haP ' '' ' '■' ^ •

town. The population o'

and till re you hav:: an ordinary American

J 23,oei(j

,v.,v... i i.. ,,w|,,,.,.. ..-,, .., ... ,., ,^-,,w.,w, and, ac(.ording tf) the guide
book, there is a great d(;al oi trade; cairied f/ii, es]je:(:ially in leaf tobacco,
live stock, and iron. On returning to the hotel we sei to work on our diaries.
'Idle <e<:ding here; was bad. (There were a ^rcat number Ci mules being used
in the-, t(nvn).

Monday, Tird.— Left r.ouisville iiy tlie 7.55, and readied this place (Cave
Cityj al'out 1 1 o'( iocl<. We leave fo: the Mainnioth Cave at 3.2<j b)' coach,
'idle 'ouiit'.y b(:tweeii here; and I>. w.';s av times pictty, aval showed rather
more signs of habitation. We went through a real long tunnel for the first
time since we have been liere. It is awfully hot to-day, so was yesterday.
At 3.^0, as Tiobody e'se; ap))(;ared by the train at 3.15 we set out in a carriage
by eairselves — 1 say -;.2o b(;cause we ought to have; started then, but it was
abf)ut 3.45 befejic we w(;re being jolted aioiig a S"m(;vv]iat rough rejad thnjugh
most delighllul wtjods, priin:ipa.lly of oak, but with many (jther trees s])rinkled
about ; tin; leav(;s how(:V(;r iiave not y(;t begun to turn a* all about here;.
Abcjut 5 o'clock we stopped to water the horses, and g<jt into the Manm.oth
Cave Ibjtel after t\v(^ liouis oi roughish (Iriv'ing. Then; was ix; one; in the
hotel be:siele;s e;urse;lve;s, altheiugh it is caj)able; ejf heihling 150 ])ersons. Vv^e
were ;diown lo our somewhat rustic rejoms, and then went down to feed, after

Crivc

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lirst

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was

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L-l.;(l

tllP

We
ifLcr

vvliich a (Irirkio (amoan'l announced liimsclfas (mr Kuidc, so off wc went with

him ahfjiil 7 o'clock. 'I here nut two rcr^ular routes to the cav(', one called

the lon{^ and the otliei- the shotl roiiU;, tlie latter, w]ii( h we were about to

take, (jccupicfl ahout |(jur hours, wImI*- the lonj^ oik; takes from seven to ei;^dit.

It was a lovely moonli>;ht nif(ht , and we eot to tlx; mouth oT the < avciii in ahout

five minutes. Tlie day, as I have said, had hcen very hot, and the m';dit was

close. Just before ent'iinj.^ tliere was a curious phenomenon —)ou eouhi

Hterally ha\< ouehanil in liot air, and the otJKi in thi- (old. 'I h( re was a

strong breeze blowin;:^ out ol the cave. We went downhill some few yards,

and were- vf-iy soon art nail)' in the ( ave. The- bats were flyin;( about in every

(hrection — there were hundreds clin»^in{^ to the rot k. 'Idic)' llo( !•; here,

esj)eciall)' in winter, when they haii;^ to tli(; sides of the roof of the cave till

s|)rin}^', at which time ihc) will bej^(in llyin<^ about, but at m';;ht tinx; only.

After about kjo yards, w(; went thrrjuj^di an iron j^ratin^^^ K-'te, and soon ;dler-

wards were free of the bats. It struc].: us a little chilly at first on entcriii;^' the

cave, but we soon ;^ot u;,ed to it, and tlie tempei'at nre was d(h;dillul, beinj^

54", from wlii(.h it does not vary in tlie jc-i ,t from one year's end to the other.

The air is beautifully pure;, ;ind it luu ,t be bracing, as, though we- walked io|

miles, the next day we w(;r'- not the h-.-ist bit tired, in spite of 0111 b;id tiaininj;.

^'oUK; years a^^o some <onsnniptive people tried to jyj down and li\e there in

hoj)t:s of b(:tterin;.^ tlurmscdves, but the results wtre lat.il: one iii;in went so

far as to stay there for five months without cominjj out. Out ^ande was a bit

of a wa{^, and lor the first hour brr)U{dit out his "jokes" apropos to the cave

in j^Teat f(jrm. We jMusued our wa)' down the main cave, wlii( h is six nnles

in Icnj^th, varyinj^ from 40 to 1^0 feet in heijdit, and fiom bo to ',00 in width.

Soon aft(:r (.'nterinj^^ the mouth tliere are sonu: r<:mains o( water |M|)es

and pivips for pits, wliieh weic used by the saltpetre miners in ih[.>. Alter

about a mile we turned off the main cave and went into what is (ailed " the

Gothic aveiiiK:," oi/ a( < (uint <jf the stala(tii(s and stakij/mites foiiniii"; mo t

f.(njtes(|U(.' and j)ict urestpie shapes. 'J her(: A'cre two or thi(;e thin^^s pointeil

out to our Ufjtice, with more dv le;,s ai)proi)riate nam(;s ; th(:re was om ])lace,

" Na|)oleon's Dom( ," I think, wi icli was most marv(;llous; the water irid

worked its w;i}' in tluac, I f^rciunic, and not bemj^f ;ible to <'i;\ nwa)' ( a ,il)', had

ffjrmed an eddy whi( h had eaten away- the rocks t(j a ^niu[ depth, and in most

marvellous s]iaj)es. 'I^ j^et to the bottf^.n of it we IkkI to pa's tIirou;di

" I'dbow Room," whi( h, as its name; im])lies, is a very n;irjow < l.iannel in the

rock, f only wish my p'jwers of expressing myself wen; clearer, so tliat I

crjuld j^ive you some vaj.;ue id< a ; but tlie narvcls of nature; in this case are

far beyond my j)owers of dese rijition, even if I (ould remember them all,

v.'hich I cannot, as we twisted and turn(;(| 'bout in su(di a mar\(:ll<ais mnnnei.

We th(;n passed by a plate called ".Mummy's Cav(; " and "Wooden

Bowl" — the former becaus<j an Indian w(jmairs munnny was found tin ie,

with that of her chihl, both p(ile(tly j)res(;rved, and the latt< r betause ,i.n

Indian b(iwl was fouixl th< le. Anolher j)lace, somewhat like Naji's Dome,

only deejjcr (beinj^ 235 fee'), w<: hjoked throuj^h a s(;)t of window about half

way from the boltotn, while the guide went up above and threw some lighted

« )

ti>:

7«

paper down ; such a sij^'lit it was ! the rock,^ worn in most inarvclUjus sliapos.
The coihu}^ too, in sonic plai:cs which wo walkf;(| alonj^, was most curiously
work(;(l, whcr(t th(; water had eaten away the solt rock, and Ic:(t the harder

parts, while in other j)l;ic.es it was worn ()uite smooth, init those snobs

will persist in hurnin^ their iianu^s everywhere, as everyone can"i(;s a lantern.
In one j)lace, the rooCwas vvoin away just like " pliiloso|)lier's hr.iins" by the
water tri( klin;' down, eatinjj; away the soft rock, and leavin<^ the hard, whih;
in anotlic]- pkicc the s;inie |)rocess h;id left it pointed like ne(;dles. (Just had
a sjjidcr all over my (;ice and up my arm !) .Stalactites are said to lake five
years to mak-e ;i piece ;ls thin as a, wafer. I low man)' years did it take to
form these monsters ? Thc'y are never formed in sandstone but only in lime-
stone, as tlu; latt(;r is not pf)rous, whereas the former is. Tin,' water on its
way through the limestone, forms bicarbonate of lime, and the stalactites and
slala^Miiites are translucent as lont^ as they are still forminf^, as a '(n-at many
of these are, but when finished lormin^f, the action cA the air forms oxide of
iron, and nirdscs (lu:m dull. Sometimes lh(.'reisa layer of sandstone under
th(! limestone, ;md the water ( omes tlnouf^di v(,'ry f^^radually, and inst(;ad of
<hi|)pin;^' off, h;is more the tendency of oo/in;^ just like perspiration, thus
formin^f ^fyj)sum or sulphate: of lime; this lias the effect of producinj^^ most
lovely flowerlike effec;ts ; the water oozes through a hole, and then the
}^'y])sum forms, whilst the water oozinj^ throuj^h, keeps j)ushin^ the already
formc^d jj;yj)sum furthiraiul fuitlu r away from the centre, and tlius forms most
peifect flowery effects and (lesi;-;iis ofCver} imaj^ii able shajxis and sizes. VVe
f)nly saw one perfect spec inu^'n of it, but next day we saw lots, as I will tell
you. We manaf^ed to procure some bits, so we will be better able to explain
it. 'Jdie j^ypsum is beautifully white;, and sf)mewhat inclinc;d to crumble.
After walkin<j; tlirouj^h all soits of chambers and (diannels, and looking down
into deep holes " curiously wrouj^dit," but not "with divers colours," we at
last came t(j the " Stai- Chamber;" it was at tlie end of a lon^ galh.Ty; the
rocks on eaedi side; were all sorts of shapes, and u]) above was a most [)erfect
imitation of stars formed by sulphate of soda or crystallized ^^ypsum. Our
guide to «k our lamps away, and went down inte) a channel on a lenver level,
wheire, by inov.n<^f the; lamps, he made a cloud ])ass ove;r the; sky, then he
disaj)pe;are;ei alto^^ether, and left us in total darkness, and te)tal and truly
awiul stillness .md sile:nce, as lor some; miiuitcs none; of us spoke; or maele; a
sound. i'rese;ntly we saw the hY;ht very dim, and he;ard a, most pe;rfect
imitation of a cock crowmj,;, th(;n a cov/ mooed, the-n a do^ bark(;d, and the-n
William (for such is the; j^uide's name), a])pe:ar(;d with the; lij^hts. When he
was b(;low us, and the lij^dit on the ce;ilin^r above', it wante;d but very little
imaf^ination to fane:y that one; was in a, deej) ravine with the stars twinkling
above. ()ne; time; (be;for(; the Star Cliambe;r), we thought we; heard voices
above;; our guide holload (Hit, wh(;n we; heard a man (as we thf)ught) answer
him, but i)re;se;ntly we; suspected se>niething, and "jigger me!" if our Mill was
not greening us by v{;ntrilo(|uizing. Afte;r this we set out (Jii our homeward
walk, and reached the; hotel soon after lo p.m. These caves measure 125
miles, when all the branches, and the main caves are taken into account, and

(jwn

we at

: the

rfcct

Our

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n he

truly

ule a

;rfect

then

II he

h'ltle

klinf^

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swer

was

\v;ird

'25
and

were only discovered in 1812 by a wounded bear running in there. The
lowest part is aboiil 30CJ icct below tlu; earth. Our iii.in was extremely
interest iii}^', as he knew a thiu}- or two about ji^eoKjgy.

Tuesday, 4th. — At 10 o'cUx-k we set off with I'iill and (h^f for the lonf<
route, when we walked nine- nn'les into the hcnrt of the earth ; I don't mean
nine miles as the crow lli(;s, but countinj^; all tin; turns and bcmls which ai'(.'
somewhat numerous. l"or about a mih. we followc(| the m.iiu ( avc and then
turn(!(l off throu<{h " ]''at Man's Mist ry," wlii( h well deserves the name.', as the
water lias worn away the rock (j^rcy limestone) and made a seipentdike
chaniKil ior some hundred yards in len^^h up to .me's middle, and there; is
only just room to ])ass. After enierj^inj^ from there it is "short and stout's"
turn to lauj_jh ;is we earn(; to "Till Man's Misery," which, as its name
imj)lies, is very low; and even "little 1" had t<; bend ahnost double; this
brou<^'lit us to "(Jreat K'eliel," soon alter which we r/.imv. to a j)la((: only half
a mile from the cavct's mouth, tliou;^h w(! h;id been two miles to i^'A to it; th<;
name of the place was the " Corksci'ew," of which anon; alt(;r j^oinj^ across
the "Sandy Desert," we cam(; to the " Kiver Styx" and "Lake; r.etli(:,"
whic.h at present are only little ponds, but after very heavy rains a river
comers rusliin;^ down here;, which aj^Mces s< inehow with a river outside called
the Green River; in thosf; waters we saw a few eia)(ish and other lisli, the;
latter were; only abf)Ut an inch Ion;;, but tlie}' do run as bijf as six inches.
Sof)n after r^(;the wc; <:ame to " Ivho Lake," whi( h is a j)iece of water half a
mile in len<^fth, averaf^dn^^^ 50 feet broad and from souunvhcrc aljout 5'^ feet hi^h,
to a i)art so low that we liarl to b(;iid rijdit down while jiassin^ in tlu; boat.
Wlien we had ^one a few yards, Wilhani <^^lve tliiee lon^', se|)arate, clear not(;s,
the eff(;ct was soinethiii}^ tof) exejuisite;, soundin;^^ exactly like; a most beautiful
or^^an ; he than san^ a few lines of a melody, which soundt:d very j)relty,
bat did not f^nve the harme^ny so much as the three sinj^de; not(;s hael ^dven ;
you could h(;ar too with ^a'eat accuracy whenever he made the slii^^htest false
note; there was one part, wliere the cave; was me-dium hi^h, that it se)iinde;d
quite its best, it was a e:urie)us sensation of ^didinj^ alon^^ without any ne;ise
whatever. Afte^r abe)ut tweaity minute;s on th(;wate;r (theai^di it se;e;me(l abe)ut
five) we; elisembarke;d and walked nn thioujdi a very ion;,,' j^allery witlunit
'.myih'w]'^ pnrticu/ay/y strikin^^, allhouj^di some of the holes we>rn away by water
or e>the-rvvisc; we;re; most e'xtrae)rdinary ; there; we;re diffe;icnt names ^dven to
diffe;re;nt parts e)f the; j^'alleiry, with more; or le;ss appre)priate;ne;ss ; the re);iel
twisteel aiiei turned .abe,iit wonderfully, till at 1 1st we e ame: to a |)lae:e; where
we had t') crawl uii thrf)u^h rocks by me;ans o' ladde;rs ; this brou<^ht us to
ane)iiier <^^al!e;ry where theire- were; hu^^c himjjs of stalactite;s anel stalai^nnites,
vvhieii \vlie;n lighted up lo(d<(;d e;xae:tly like; j^a'ape;s. IIe;re; we; sto|)ped and liael
lunch : eaie very curiejus tiling I have for^e)tte;n to mention, and that 1 ;, wluire
the f)xiele; of ire)n had lorme'd most wondeafal sha))es on the roe ks — -in eme
jjlace the:re was a me^st pe;rfe;e:t likeaie-ss to a.n ante;at(;r, while hi anothe;r twe)
j^iants were re;pre;sente;d threjwin^ a baby fre>m e)ne; to the; either, this was ne>t so
good. It was 1.20 when we had done lunch, and had set out on our way

4 k

I s ■.

• n

■i

1 1.

.80

again, the most wonderful part was yet to come ; after scrambling:,' along rocks
for some time, we came to a broad gallery, the ceiling and sides of whicli were
adorned with most sj)lendid patterns of gypsum, the whole roof and sides
were covered with this most exquisite work f(jrming all sorts of shapes and
sizes, we sooji after came to a place where the work was about as fine as
about three pins jnit togeth(;r. \Vc manag(;d to get twcj or three sp(;cimens,
two of whicii are vc;ry good. Tliis lovely work lasted for rdjout a mile when
we came to tlie " Ivoeky Mountains," wliich are well named, as there are an
enormous chaos of rocks which one has to scramble over till you come to the
end of the cave, which is extremt'ly iine. It is one mass of stalactites and
stalagmites but none of these are particularly curious in shape, it is more
their enormous (piantity, as the whole roof and sides are one mass of them.
From one side we looked down about 100 feet into the " Maelstrom," one of
those curious holes formed, I su])pose, by some eddy. After this we st >ed
back by the same way w(; had come till we came to the " Corkscrew," and
then, instead of going through " Fat Man's Misery," we went back by the
"Corkscrew" which was only discovered some few years ago by our William.
Before entering into it, we saw a most peculiar offshoot of the cave called the
" Jiutcher's Shop," because the water has worn the ceiling away so a-' to look
like hanging meat (?) it is most curious ; but to continue our tortuous way
through the " Corkscrew," it is a most marvellous bit indeed ! we had to
scramble over rocks through a very narrow channel, so narrow that in one
place we regularly had to wriggle through ; in three places where the rocks
were too big and too steep to climb over, ladders had been placed to complete
the connection. I liave no idea how far the "Corkscrew" extends, but as
far as I can now remember, I should say about (juarter mile. After a most
intricate scramble, we found ourselves about half mile from the mouth of the
cave, which was a good many feet higher than the end of the "Corkscrew"
which wc had entered. V'-^; got back to the hotel, having walked
i6J^ miles underneath the eartn. They will not allow anyone to survey it,
le^'*" it shcjuld b( fcjund that it is under somebody else's ground other than
that of the man's on whose the entrance is. After dinner we sat out for some
time, and, before turning in, G. and I wrote a bit.

Wednesday, 5th.--G., Joe and I had settled to walk to Cave City, and
accordingly left the lujtel at 7.40, leaving H. to follow in the stage coach.
The morning was perfect, not a cloud in the sky, and just a nice breeze; our
road lay, all but about tiie last mile or two, through lovely oak ftjrests they
had taken some little trouble to thin out a bit, so there were one or two
pieces of fine timber; besides oak there was very little else except sasafras,
and every here and there a walnut or two; during the latter part of the way,
however, there were some other trees, amongst them long tliorned acacias.
After we had gone 3J miles, we stopped to have a look at some Indian arrow
heads and other things which a man had for sale, as well as a large collection
of gypsum and other geological specimens. It was a curious way he had of
selling, we gave him a dollar, and for that he allowed us to take away almost

and
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as much as ever we wished. If the arrow heads are real, they are (hrl clieap,
and I don't think it would pay them to make them, as the amount of trouble
would not allow him to sell thein wholesale like thai. We saw \V) end of
buzzards swoopinj^^ about, and a lot of smaHer birds, one of which was a wood-
pecker with a beautiful red head. Tliere were no end of diffenMit kinds of
oaks, and sfjme of the l(;aves were enormous. I picked a lot of l(;aves in
order, if j^xjssible, to find out their names, one of these, which I picked off
a c|uite small sa])lin^, measurt'd ij^ inches by 9 inches across, wliilst another
from the same tree was 4 j inches by 3 across ; frorn another sapling I picked .
a peculiar stjuare-headed leaf io|- inches long by 9^ across; on the larger
trees the leaves do not appear to run so cnonnous. William had told us
there were a lot of hickf)ry about here, but we didn't see any, except :i few
round the hotel. We got to Cave City about 1 1.40, and had just half an hour
before the train started to get our things together, feed and — I was going to
say — wash, but there was no time for that, so we had to content ourselves
with the other two, even that was a bit of a scramble. We ]-)resented a
goodly sight when the train came up, carrying our fossils, leaves and thorns
all loose as wc had no time to put them together, our boots in our hands, and
only with slipi:)ers on ; however there was no one much to see us as the car
was full of country folk. There was a delightful " pate" of nigs, a father and
four little brats on a seat intended for two perscjns, those little black brats are
such jolly looking little imps with their curly heads and solemn bright-eyed
faces. We had to change at Cincinnati junction, about two hours alter
leaving Cave City, and of course got in with the inevitable "Cherubim and
Seraphim " baby. We travelled at a good round pace through cultivated
country and got to Cincinnati somewhere between 8.30 and 9.30. Mere we
went to the Grand Hotel, and then turned in. Now that I come to think of
it we must have got in not later than 8.30, as we had supper and then a stroll
before turning in. We received some letters, but I forget their date. I must
tell you that since the middle of the last page I am writing on my knees,
which, together with the rest of my legs, landed me aboard my old friend the
" Scythia " yesterday at 7.50, so you must excuse me if I am somewhat
doubtful occasionally.

Thursday, 6tll.— After breakfast we set out to deliver a letter from
Pardee to the firm of Kellog & Walsh, Whiskey Distillers. Wc found the
former in, he received us most kindly and told us what to do and see, and
also gave us a letter tcj the largest distilleries in the town. vSo, after seeing a
very handsome fountain brought from Munich, we went down to the
distillery, about i.^ miles from the hotel; as bad 'nek would have it, our
friend had gone home to lunch and wouldn't be back for an hour, so we
returned to the hotel, lunched, and went back again ; still he was not there,
so some man who knew nothing about it, took us over it, and we learnt little
or nothing. All that I could make out was that the meal which is made
apparently out of almost any grain, is mixed with boiling water, and then
stirred about in a huge copper by machinery ; it is then allowed to stand in

order to ferment, then yeast is added, it is boiled, and the meal separated
from the liciuid. The man was very f^ood naturcd, but knew absolutely
nolhifif^. After that, w(; went to the T*^xpr)sition which is much larger than that
of Chicaf^o, but in some thinf^js didn't seem so good. There was an excellent
collection of stones of the country, and some from other lands, amongst which
was some flint from the White; Cliffs of Dover. I never knew before that
flint and amethyst belonged to the same genus, viz : (juartz, of which there
are almost numberless different sj)ecies. There was a model of a nugget of
gold found in Australia, worth 41,370,000 dollars or ^8,274,000, a nice little
haul!* There was also an extremely interesting collection of marbles of
different kinds, amongst which was some beautiful white gypsum and some
pink. The collection was very good, as it had specimens from all parts of the
world. There were also a lot of Antedeluvian animals, amongst which was a
specimen of a mammoth, and my word ! what tusks !! By the bye. Thunder
Bay, on Lake Superior, is very rich in precious stones, especially amethysts.
I should liked to have spent a long time in the geological department, but we
hadn't time, so we passed through the glol)e department on to the birds, of
which, however, there was a poor collection, though well stuffed. On our way
we passed a case of Indian arrow heads, &c., exactly like our own. G. and
n. then went to the pictures, but as we didn't see much fun in looking at
pictures by gaslight, Joe and I roamed about in other departments, amongst
which, one was that of the flowers ; the Americans, so far as we saw, certainly
have no flowers that can compare with ours, but their palms are very fine.

There where no ferns as good as ours at H. L., and as to the geraniums I

We had awful fun with a man who was exhibiting a patent stirrup k.'ather
with a spring in the middle of it I Imagine the result. We asked him very
politely what was its particular merit, upon which he was very rude, so we
had some fun out of him at his expense, and he got awfully shirty when I
asked him if they had good hunting about there ! and if the saddle that he
showed was the regular American saddle. We got back about 6.30, and after
supper went to see Joe Jefferson acting Bob Acres in " The Rivals." We
had taken a box right on the stage for 5 dollars {£1.) The whole company
was excellent, and as to Jefferson he was wonderfully good, his changes of
expression being especially clever, I have not enjoyed a theatre so much
for a long time. The building itself was very poor, but the house was
crammed.

Friday, 7th. — After breakfast we went to see Mr. Kellog, who had
promised to show us over a brewery. However, he said it would be better
if we went in the afternoon, so we took the tramway and drove out of the
city to Mount Auburn. The city itself lies in a hollow, with hills all round,
as far as I remember, and they have elevators which carry the cars up to the
top of the hill; they then go on for about another ij or 2 miles. These
elevators (or inclined plane, as they call them here,) go up at an angle of

•A model of the same nugget mry be seen at the British Museum,

»3

(ilxnit .|2 ; llu; horses simply draw tlic car oil, and lh(;n up it j^oes, and tlicy
^ct off at the top, and j^'o on aj^'ain without hcinf^ unharnessed or anythinj^.
We went about as far as one Hue of cars went, and then walked a httlc way,
and look another hm , which hmded us at the Zoo. I can hardly give any
opinion of it, as we saw so little. There were scjme splendid gold and silver
pheasants; but tlui lions, Sec, Sec, were wretchedly i)oor. I don't know
what was the matter with us that morning, but we were all very inatl, and we
must have astonished the natives, I guess ! We got back to the town soon
after i o'clock, and went straight to Mr. Kellog, who gave us a most excellent
dinner at his club. About 3.3(; we set out for the brewery, which was most
intei'esting, and of which 1 will make a memo. The process of malt making
is as follows:— The oats are spread out on a floor, and kept mcjist till they
swell and sprout ; they are then taken into a hot ro(jm, where they are dried,
and kept till wanted. The malt is then put into a boiler, and bfjiled together
with hops, the amounts used being at the rates of 2^ bushels of malt and
2 lbs. of hops to a barrel. It then passes to a mash tub, where it is siinply
stirred about, I fancy, then boiled again and poured mU) a vat, where it cools
gradually; after which it is run over pipes, in which there is iced wat(;r, into
barrels below, where the yeast is added, and fermentation takes place; when
it is put into barrels, and put down amongst ice, to be kept as cold as
possible, and sold about five months afterwards. They make from 900 to
I ,oo(j barrels j^er day. Tlic great town f(jr beer is Milwaukie, and excellent
(Lager) be(;r it is too. After the l)rewery, we were taken to tlie Cuvier Club,
where they have a very fine ccjI lection of birds and fishes, and f(^r the most
part well stuffed. We had only time to run through this in a great hurry,
as we had to get back to the hotel and pack for the 8.30 train to N. Y.
Cincinnati has a population of 255,000, of which more than one-third arc
Cierinans. It is a nice town, antl, lor a wonder, has fairly resj^ectable
pavement. Unlike most of these towns, it has not s[)rung up very suddenly —
f(jr an American town that is to say, — and though a prospen^us town, is not
increasing at such a prcnligious pace as most of them. There are some very
nice houses, and fine streets all through, though no one is far ab<jve all the
rest, as is usually the case I think. Cincinnati is a great place for furniture
too, and there are some fine shojis. At H.30 we left by the Pan Handle
R. R., which seems to be a branch of the ( elebrated Pennsylvania R. R.
It is certainly out and out the best line we have been (jii, both .is to pace and
smooth going. The permanent way is beautifully kept, being entirely laid
with broken-up rock.

gle of

Saturday, 8th. — We reached Pittsl)urg at 7.30 (?) stayed there twenty
minutes for breakfast, and from there we travelled on the Pennsylvania itself.
What I have said o{ the Pan Handle applies e(jually to this. I forgot to say
we did not have to change cars at Pittsburg. P. is the great place for iron
foundries, and as we passed through at 7.30, tlierc was a forest of chimnies
with the flames rushing out of them, the atmohjjherc of the town looked very
like that of Liverpool. There are some large Coal Mmes near here, but all

■i?

American coal is very soft and conse(juently smoky, as we know to our cost
on the railways, thouf^di on many lines they burn wood which is just as bad.
All throuj^di America, the cnj^'ines are very low, the funnels short, the carriaj^fis
are hij^di and ventil.'ited from tlie top, so that all lliin;^'s combine to make the
carria^a.'S full of smoke if you are f^'oin^^ aj^ainst the wind, at least it seemed
to be the cas(;. Their enrjines over here too struck me v(;ry much, they seem
to be such wretch(;(l little thinrjs — even the I'eimsylvania has not any to be
comjjaretl to the ICnj^lish — some of those on the (j.W.K. lor instance — and
our lly wheels are ever so much bij^<^^er than theirs! but to continue — we soon
found ourselves (lyin<:^' thiouj^h most lovely country at a rattlinj^ ])ace, swin^^inj^
r(nmd sharp curves without shutting' off the least steam, curlinj^' and windinf^
about alon^^ the valley with ste(;]) mountains thickly j^rown with trees slo])in(^
down, and tlu; river (or some time; on our left. After abf>ut a cou])Ie of hours,
the scenery wns extrc'mely j^nand, and the twistinj^ and curvinj^ of the railway
marvellous. At nbout 10,^0 we passed Jcjhnslown, a f^reat iron fcnmdry
place. After that, to tlu; best of my r(;coll(;ction, we passed tlirouj^h some
fine cultured land, and then, for a time, it was v(;ry wild aj^ain. We were
j^radually risinj^ Itn' a lon^' time, havin;^ taken u|) a secf^nd enj^ine at Johnstown.
At times the incline was wonderfully stcej) ; wlum we f^ot to the summit of the
pass, w(; unhocjked our other eni^nne without sto|)pin^', wc- then j)assed some
jnx'tty level bits for a very short way, if 1 r(;member ri;.,'htly, ;ind then came
to the descent; we went windin/^ away round to the lelt d<nvn the sid(; oi the
mountain, with the vrdley Ik;Iow us and hij^li mountains on the other side of
it, the incline was stee])er tlian that by which we had ascended, and we were
f^'fjin;^' down sohdy by the impetus of our own weij^dit, the whoh; beinf^
re<;ulated by the steam breaks. Aft(;r a. lon<_; desc(;nt, we turned a wcjnderlully
sharp curve, so sliar|) as to form a jKnfcct (J, and then we went down
an(jtlK;r mountain which we had j^^ot on to by means o\ this wonderful sharp
turn t(j the ri^^dit, and continued i^o'mis, down this steep incline nearly till we
<foi to Altoona (at 12.25) • f-"-'' ''^vay above us on our rij^ht we c(nil(l see a
lu|^f}^'a[;e train pulllnj^ up tlu; steep incline. The whole ascent occupies eleven
miles from the Pittsburg side, but I don't know how l(jn<^^ it is on tlie New York
side, it is decidedly steei)er on the latter. The scenery was simply splendid,
and I was tlu; more dclif^dited as 1 had no idea that the Alle^diany Mountains
were so wonderfully line. The rest of the jcjumey was not S(j imj)osinf^dy
grand, but was for the most part extremely pretty and well cultivated, and at
times you could almost (ancy yourself in tlu; old country, travelling through
the lovely agricultural parts. We reached IMiiladelphia at b.30 (about), and
got to N. Y. at <j o'clock. I think we were about \o minutes late, but am not
sure. We did move sometimes at a tidy i)ace, but ther(; is a nasty trick they
have got on the American lines, vi/,: — ihc)' never give you any warning, tliey
tell you how hjng you have g(jt and stay thai time, very often longer; on the
Pen. R. K. they ga.v(; us 5 minutes' warning in the restaurant before the train
left, but beyond shouting out {nol at all loud) "all aboard," once, or peihajjs
twice, they never think of giving you any more warning, but off they go,
without a whistle or anything, and on most lines the names of the stations

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arc not v ritton up, thoy only just shout the name once in the car just before
you ^lii there, s(; iC ycm are aslet;]) you stand a ^'ood chance of (jvc;rshootin^
the mark. ]iy-thc-l)y(;, I should li.ive told you that tin: line Iroin Cincinnati
to l-*ittshur;^ lias (I am nearly certain) two sets of rails, and Irom I', to N. Y.
it has thr(Mj sets in many jilaces. Arrived at Jhooklyn, we took the lerry
across to N. Y. wlien; iCrnest liad taken rocnns rit the llollman lltjuse lor us.
At 11.30 our lu^i^iii^c had not arrived, so we turned in without it.

Sunday, 9th.— We did not have breakfast till near in o'clock, and while
so enga}^^(;(l, Maurice La Montague cam(; in brinj^'inf^ us your letters. We then
went to (what turned out to be) a very hi<^h church. After which returned to
hotel and read your letters and chan^^ed our roc^ms, as they had given us
some smelling un])leasantly strong of the pot and brush, that and a little
writing took uj) the time till 4.30, when we went round to tin; La Montague's,
No. /|o in 28th Street. They had returned from Kockaway the previous
Tuesday, but the Ernests' and Kencs' are still down there. We sat there
talking till about 6 (/ckjck, when we returned to the lujtel. After a stroll, just
as we were going up stairs, I'ierre came into the hotel, having just come up from
Iv'ockaway, and lie sat talking with us in (jur rot^m till we went down to dinner.
The only bit of luggage we had lost on our wlif)le tri[), was that my basket was
missing when we got t(j N. Y. but it made its appearance while we were at church.

Monday, lOtll. — just as we were hnishing brerd<fast, Ernf;st apjieared, so
we went down to the office, where we saw Rene, and after staging th(;re some
little time, went to tlie Cunard Ofhce to see about one or two things, and then
to Jackson's, whercj M. had gone wlum we went tfj l>eaver Street. Just as I
came; out of th(; Cunard Office, who should I m(;et but young Cunard, cousin
of Sir 13., wliom I had not seen since he left liton. On leaving Jackson's we
went to Delmonico's, where we JKid some pn^per oysters, nr>t like those awful
things we had tasted at Chicago (which by the way is pronounced " .Shcorgo"
over Iiere.) Delrnonico has four liouses in the city, rdl better one than the
other. After luncli we t(;ok the elevated railroad back " up town," and as
g0f)d luck would have it, we took a wrong turning which leads past ''. fire
engine station. As w(; had lutard a great deal about them, but n(;ver seen
one, we stopp(;d and had a look in, and one of the men very good-naturedly
showed us how it acts. The horses are standin;; alongsifle oi' the engine, and
when there is a fire, notice is given by means (jf electric wires which run from
the stations to various Inmp ])osts in the city. A j-)erson wishing to give
notice of a fire goes to a man at whose house the key (;f the box containing
the alarm signal is kept ; he then pulls some handle which is attaclu^d to*tlie
electric wires. This strikes the alarm b(;ll at the station, and at the same
time undoes the hook of the horses' head strai)S ; at this the dear nags go
straight to tlieir jjlaces. The harness is all suspended on hooks ; the collar
has a hinge at ih<; top, and when the horses an; in their places the collar is
let down upon them, ruid the; clasp at tlie bottom is shut. Tliey have always
their bridles on, so it only remains to fasten the reins by means of one single

I' 2

clasp (similar to lli.it which fastens a watch to its chain), fasten some other
piece of hai'ness hy means of a similar clasj) ; IIkj driver tlu^n ^ets up and
pulls a strin;,', which lets rdl the rest of the harness down on the hors(;s, and
away ihey jjo, and in 2.^ seconds from the time the rdarm hell is struck they
are off; at least that is what the man told us, hut I think his imaj^n'natif)n
worked a little too (|uick. It is undouhtedly marveihnis, the j)a.ce at \vhi( h
th(;y c;in <u:[ olf. You see they only have two collars to clasp to;^rcther, and
ff)ur sprinj^' hooks to fasten, all of which is done in less than no time. I don't
think I've tnade the collar dfjd;._,^e clear; it is thus: — The collar has a hin;(e
at the top and han^^s from the hook ; they simi)ly have to unhof)k it and
press the two (;nds to^'elher. After this we went to Sarony and made an
ajipointment for lo o'clo(dc the next day to have; our " pictur " tf)ok. We
return(;d to the hotel and then walked some way u|) h'ifth Av(;nue, with which
I was aj^T(M;rd>ly surprised. I had not n;,al!y seen the l)(;st part hefore, and it
is undf)uhtedly a fine street, but shockini; badly paved. We returned to the
hot(;l to dress, as we were to dine with JCrnest at 7.30 at Delmonico's.
When we came f)ut of the hotel w(; saw a very strcjuf^ bj^ht, which turned out
to be a hre in Tweniy-fourth Str(;et. A traincar station had cau^^dit hre, and
was blazing m(;rrily ; some part of a storehouse cauj.;ht fire, and a hjt of j^^oods
lost. The followin;^ day, when we passed at 6.30 ]).m., it was still burninpj,
thouj^h then) was no dan<^er, as it w;is only refuse and debris. W(; had a very
pleasant r;v(Miin;^' ind(;(;d ; rdl the brothers were there;, besides a ]\Ir. Gcorj^e
Work, Mrs. Kenc's brother, and some man in L's. office, a Frenchman.

Tuesday, 11th. — At 10 o'clock wc went to vSarony, and were taken in a
grou[) as well as sej)arately. I expected to be jnit in all sorts of attitudes ;
however they were very f^'ood, and didn't bother us at all. After this we went
and invested in some literature (or on board shiji, which done, we returned to
the hotel, and then went off to the station, where we had af^reed to meet
Maurice, and ^o with him to the races at Jerome Park. They were an
improvement on Saratoga, but the riding,' was shockinj^ ; bits of boys are
shoved on to the horses' backs, and there they remain, more by good luck
than ^(K)d management, with no more idea of riding than a monkey. In one
rac(; some of them began to whip directly they started ; one man at the start
(which usually (jccupies about 10 minutes), gave his animal a gentle (?)
reminder just to make sure it was awake. It was a most absurd sight, the
wretched horse was standing perfectly still when the monkey on his back gave
him an awful warmer for (ai)parently) no eartlily reason but for something to
do. 'I'he last race was a steei)lechase ; the jum]")S were, if possible, smaller
tluin tlujse of Saratoga, notwitlistanding which two hcjrses came to grief at tlie
first fence, which was a " fooly " hurdle. We got back to the hotel at 6.30, and
were to dine with the La Mf)ntagues at 7 o'clock. We had a very pleasant
evening then;, alter which I took an affectionate far(;well of all our most kind
friends, and return(;d to the hotel at 12 o'clock about ; l)ut I had all my
packing to df), as wc; had not had a minute in which I conld have done it
before. However Joe very kindly helped me, and so it did not take very long.

. «7

Wednesday, 12th.— Wc were astir l)y oMods, ;in.l Ich tli( li-.tcl ;it
7.V, rc.uliiii;^^ the Ciiiianl wharf at 7.5'). Wc lirsl went and put ni) hu;^;a,';(;
in my cabin, which is No. 12, | on thi; saloon deck, just hchind tin; saloon,
and which I have all to myself. It is not Mich a j^'ood cabin as those forward
ol the enj^jines on the main deck-, as there is more noise fnnn the ;urew.
Ilowev'er, I am ".all rii.Hit up to now," and it is bett(;r than havin;^ sonu;
beast in my cabin. Not findin;^' our chairs on board, we went on to the wharf
for tlu;m, and who should wcj see, amon^ a lot (.f i)(;opI(; round the 5th
Avenue Hotel 'bus, but Sam liircham! I was, as you may ima!.,'inc',
d(;li,'_,dited to sec him ; joe and I simultaneously exclaimed, *' Well, this is
jolly." We then left him to j^'o after our (diairs. (N.B. — Ife has just |)assed
throuLjh the saloon, and be^^'s to be remembered very kind!)' to you all. On

a Yankee's askin;,' him what of tlu; nijht, he replied, "D d dark, and

stinks o' cheese," (vide Jorrorks) miu h to the other's astonishment,) but to
continue. We returned on board with our cliairs, and (). and joe remained
with me till ordered off, and jnmctually at (j o'clock we " iiKjved on." I watclujd
them (I don't know what became of II.) till we were fairly off, and saw
them leave the wharf. S. 15. then introduced me to Mr. Ivirle, with whom
he has been travelling'. It was a bit misly at first, but lliat soon cleared off,
and we had a ^food view of the; harbour, which is certainly very fine;. We
(lro)i|)(;(l our jjilot about 11.30 at Sandy Hook, and I sent Joe a line to t(;ll
him o( my ^ood luck in ru}' cabin. Wc passed the "Bothnia" about
K; o'clf)ck. After dro|)|>in<4 f)nr pilot we lay to for a f(;w nu"nut(.'S to j)ul
something' ri;^d)t,and then went on. Wc; w(;re very soon amonj^' the while
horses, and had a litth; motion. We have 170 passen^^ers, of whom some of
the men secnn v(;ry nice. We have not many Yankees. Mr. Monier
Williams, the son of the professor, is on board. I am on the captain's rij^dit,
with a most clinrni'nii* old I'addy next me, and anoth(;r very nic(j I'addy next
to him, with whom lu; has been travelling'. Mr. John Slurj^iss, son of the
man who was at Walton, is also on bo.ird with his two dauj^diters. He is an
extremely nice man, and his dau^^hters seem very lad}lik(;, thouj^di I have
not yet the pleasuic of their ac(|uaint;ince. S. I). introduc;ed me to Mr. S.
The old captain is a bit heavy, but extremely agreeable when wound up.

Thursday, 13th.--A dullish mornin<,s with but little motion. Played
shovel boar(l with Mr. S., 1'.., and olln.'rs. At noon the lof^' rej^n'stered 301
miles frorn .Sandy Hook. P.M. sjjcnt in reading' and writin}^'. During'
breakfast Mr. Alderman Knif^ht (FJm Side, Hampton-on-Thames,) sent his
card to the cai)tain, as he is very ill. Soon after 8 o'clock I went rij^ht
forward, where- the 2nd officer (by name McMrdion) was on watch. He
reco<^Miiz(;d me at once, thouf^di I had not sp(jk(;n to him on my way out.
He st;ems a very nice; fellow, and a |)erfect ;^'entleman. The ])oor fellow has
had an iMihap|))- i)osiiion in life. His father died when he was youn;^', and
his ^niardian, wfio was the son of the first wift.-, contrived to jjcrsuade him tf)
enter tin; T^-ench navy, and by so doin^' he forfeited the money left him by
his father ; he didn't know it at the time, but his guardian did. He was

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(716) 872-4503

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extremely interesting, and told me all about his experience in the merchant
service ; and, talking of the navy, told me of the dreadful ignorance on the
part of some officers in naval affairs, not even knowing the most elementary
things in a sailing ship, and unseaman-like manner on the part of the men.
All the officers of this line (and of no other) must have commanded a ship.
He was brought up at the Jesuit College at Paris, of which he spoke most
highly, but not so of the Lyc6e. (Golly ! how we are rolling ! ) I don't
remember having had such an interesting conversation for a long time, and I
was quite sorry when I found it was past midnight, and that he had already
been relieved.

Friday, 14th. — A dull a.m., with a bit of a sea, which increased during
the day, till we found ourselves rolling frightfully, as we were broadside on to
the wind. We had a lot of sail up yesterday, having as much as eight sails
set at one time. We had the wind dead in our teeth at starting, but it kindly
got round to the port side during the p.m., and yesterday p.m. got round to
starboard, where it has been ever since. We had a pool on the 24 hours'
run ; 314 was the winning number. In the course of the p.m. we rolled
right merrily, and about 4 p.m. I was happily reading *' Nicholas Nickleby,"
when I found myself seated on the deck in an elegant position . but anotner
wave good naturedly rolled me back, and I continued my book a '^^ ^rp.. But
a few seconds after about half a dozen seeing how elegantly I die! <^ tried to
imitate me, but disapproved of the game, and so retired to " t.t;ek the
seclusion which the cabin grants." Later on, S. B. and I tried to move
about, but it was out of the question. It was rare fun watching a middle
aged old chap trying to get about, but not daring to do so without having
hold of something. We were running a little over 11 knots just before
dinner. We had to be very careful to keep our soup from running over, for
if you put it down on the table it was very soon empty, the only way of
making sure that it went down the right way was to hold your plate in one
hand. During dinner Mr. S. asked me if I had been at Pau, and on my
replying in the affirmative, he said, " There is a Mr. Griffiths on board, who
thinks he ought to know you." He is travelling with his wife and three
children. I shall have to get Mr. S. to point them out to me, as I'm sure
I don't remember them. There are also a Mr. and Mrs. Reynolds on board,
whom we saw two or three times in America, but never spoke to them, but
of course we have fraternized, and they seem very nice. In fact I know a
good many nice people, and I think I shall enjoy this passage.

Saturday, Ibtll. — A roughish night — rolling horrid — however slept like a
top till '* early in de morning," but could not get to sleep again, as I was
being chucked about like a feather in my berth. The morning was lovely,
but we were still rolling a bit, and it was gone before I knew where I was.
Mr. Earle showed us his photos of Yoscmite — such beauties ! Spent most of
a.m. talking to some very nice fellows. Log registered only 291. Rolling
subsided, and now it is not half so bad as it was, though we are far from

steady ; however, it is a good long steady roll, and rather pleasant than
otherwise, and my old paddy, by name Gould, and his friend Cade and I
have struck up great friends ; they are both awfully nice old boys (though it is
not fair to call them old), evidently keen sportsmen, Conservatives, and
perfect gentlemen. To-night is fine, and wind still in same quarter.

Sunday, 16th. — Lovely morning, but began to rain early ; p.m. about
9 o'clock it began to blow hard. Went to bed at 12, but at 2.30 gave up
sleep as a bad job, and went on deck, where the sight I saw was too lovely,
the last quarter of moon shining bright, stars bright, and sea very high.
After two hours I returned, and managed to sleep till 7, by means of
stopping up my ears, and so avoiding the awful row caused by the screw
when out of water.

Monday, 17t]l. — By 9 a.m., there was a good heavy sea on, and it was a
splendid sight to see it come towering over the stern, and then we would rise
beautifully on the top of it, it increased steadily all day, and now (9.30 p.m.)
I think I may call it a strong gale. In the morning wc were sitting about on
deck, when a huge sea rushed from under us and curling back broke over the
deck, covering it about a foot deep in water — from time to time we had heavy
squalls which swept over us, tossing us about finely. It was a glorious sight
indeed to see those enormous waves many feet above the ship. I spent the
evening in writing.

Tuesday, 18th. — The night was very dirty — Captain Murphy said it was
the worst gale he has had this year — he was up all night. When I went on
deck at 9 o'clock, the gale was still very heavy, and kept washing over the
deck, so read in the saloon, but in the afternoon I could stand it no longer, so
went on deck ; the waves were enormous, and for the first few minutes I
confess that I held my breath, as an enormous wave would be seen towering
far above the stern, but the old ship rose most beautifully to them while they
came rushing under her. It was indeed a sight ! after I had been up about
half an hour, one wave did come aboard at the stern and made the deck about
one foot deep in water. Luckily there were no ladies on deck, and only a few
men. The gale continued with unabated iury all the day. Some of the squalls
were very heavy, and were as often as not accompanied with very heavy hail.
I watched the sea the whole afternoon, and could have watched it longer, had
not the dinner bell sounded and summoned mc below. Dinner was, to say the
least of it, under difficulties. I spent the evening playing gobang with the
Miss Sturgisses, however, as I got beaten every game I suggested back-
gammon, which brought me better luck, and I had an awful close game. Just
before turning in, it was very curious to see the balls of phosphorus trotting
about the deck after we had shipped a big wave.

Wednesday, 19th. — I don't know how I have managed to sleep the
last two nights, as the screw was nearly as much out of water as it was in.

i i;

(N.B. — It must be remembered I have just returned from America.) However,
such was the will of fate that my slumbers were not in the least disturbed, though

I heard the row in my sleep. A lovely a.m., with sea somewhat abated and no
squalls worth mentioning. Spent a.m. reading and watchmg the sea, which
was a seraphic colour. Afternoon repetition of a.m., with addition of asking and
answering riddles with the S. party and S. B. A pitch-dark night. A pool was
got up, after which I had a very good game of backgammon with the elder
Miss S., and ended up with ** consequences " which were splendid.

Thursday, 20th. — A glorious day. Wrote letters and diary all a.m. ; in
p.m. there was a great excitement watching the "Canada," a French steamship
which left N. Y. with us. She crossed just ahead of us, so we could see her
plainly ; " the knowing ones say," she had not had as much of the storm as
ourselves. There were also a lot of porpoises, and there were also some land-
birds flying round the ship. There was a concert in the evening in aid of the
Seamen's Orphan Home (L'pool and N. Y.). I did not go down, as it was such
a glorious night, and spent my time on the hurricane deck star-gazing.

Friday, 21st. — A fine day, but head-wind blowing hard, so that we went
about 9 or lo knots. Wrote all a.m. and part of p.m., which was not so fine;
but there was a glorious sunset, though very wild. After dinner played back-
gammon with Miss S., and afterwards " cheating," over which we made a fearful
row. Passed the " Adriatic " about 10 p.m. outward bound. A truly vile night,
and we went about 8 or 9 knots.

Saturday, 22nd. — I heard yesterday that the gale is registered on the Log
" Strong gale, terrific squalls, tremendous seas." The chief engineer says he has
never known the ship's engines so severely tried. We made Queenstown about

I I o'clock a.m., and about 20 minutes after the " Jackal" took about half-a-dozen
people off amidst a shower of potatoes. We got out of the harbour about 1 1.30,
and are now labouring against a choppy sea at the rate of 7 or 8 knots. When

shall we reach Liverpool ? Well ! since I wrote the last words we have

landed at Liverpool, and I have returned to Oxford. The whole of Saturday was
a truly vile day ; no sooner had we got out of Queenstown than it began to blow
'• pugdogs and porcupines," and we got a regular churning and shaking; at times
we only went 7 knots, and I began to wonder what the Dons would say. It
showed one the difference between an Atlantic roll and a short choppy sea. I
went to bed wondering whether I should catch the 4 o'clock express to London,
after driving myself crazy trying to get to Oxford direct.

Sunday, 23rd. — Who can describe or imagine my mingled joy and surprise
when the steward told me that ever since twelve o'clock last night we had been
doing 12 or 13 knots. After finishing up letters and packing I paced the deck till
about 11.30, when we had lunch, and at 12,30 were riding at anchor in the
Mersey just outside the Cunard docks, and about 4 miles from our landing-place.
By 1.40 we were giving the old " Scythia, " and afterwards the captain and crew,

three hearty cheers from the tender which was soon to land me on the same
wharf from which I had started fourteen weeks and one Z before th^s
ending a most enjoyable trip, which hps quite borne out all that i had

t^he'r.f ^"""V^ ^"''"'"" hospitality; L. however strange and novel
the manners and customs may at times have appeared, I must jrratSv
acknowledge that wherever we went we were received, no merely wifhcoda^

verrruch'tlth'^'"""'^ ^"/ '"^r"''^" "^^ ^^-^^'J- wrcrcontrbuted
very much to the pleasure and to the success of the tour.

H. S. B.

Edward Stanfom), Printer, 53, Charing Cross. London, S.W.

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