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Maps, ^!<«tes, charts, etc., may be filmed at differe : f^n'iction ratios. Those too large to be entirely U,c**iu .J in one exposure are filmed beginning in x -e upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est filmd d partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nScessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 %Ui >./ I^CUuts-^ -5 C^tJx^^ U^tU' ^ WHAT I DID IN "THE LONG." JOURNALS HOME DURING A TOUR THROUriH THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. IN THE LONG VACATION OF 1881, BV HARRY SCOTT BARTON, B. N. C, OXFORD. (For Private Circulation only.) • • e •! • * ■ * I 476008 CONTENTS. ^ JOURNAL 1. Outward Bound JOURNAL n. Far Rockaway — Saratoga JOURNAL in. Lakk George — Burlington JOURNAL IV. Boston — Newport JOURNAL V. White Mountains JOURNAL VI. White Mountains (coiitinnedJ—QvEBEC ... JOURNAL VII. St. Lawrence — Chicoutina JOURNAL VIII. Gold Mines of Chaudiere Valley JOURNAL IX. Montreal — Ottawa JOURNAL X. One Thousand Isles— Alexandria Bay— Cape St. Vincent— Oswego— Falls of Niagara JOURNAL XI. Toronto— Port Sarnia— Lakes Huron and Superior— St. Paul— Minneapolis— Chicago ... JOURNAL XII. Chicago (coi:tiiiited)—LovisviLLE— Mammoth Caves— Cincin- nati— New York— Homeward Bound page. 12 22 33 37 45 51 62 75 The readers of the following pages will kin u -n. .. ,.„„ ,,„,,.^^, ^„^ ^^ J- ' J..S fan,,,,, .„ _, were „„ „o,e ,..„„,„ „, .,,„ J^'^ ^—-on and s,„e r ^^ :-----■- par. „:;::x^^^^^^^^^ George Guest.er. Henri fohnston .n . . ^ ' •'°'^' jonnston. and your humble servant. HARRY SCOTT BARTON. JOURNAL I Cnnard Steam S/iip, " Scytliia July 16th. — Went on board tender at 12 o'clock, \vei,t,'licd anchor about 1.15. We watched our family on the tender till r.40, then, havini,^ lost sij^dit of them, went below, put our cabins in order, and spent the rest of the afternoon till 4 o'clock reading', &c., at which hour we retired below for dinner; after which remained on deck till TI.15., havint; written a few letters to be posted at Queenstown, which we made about 8.30 the followinj^' mornin*;. Sunday, 17th. We had not a favourable impression of this lovely harbour as there was a bit of a mist, which ujrew very thick about lo o'clock, however, it kindly lifted a little about 11.30 when we went ashore, and havin.if i^ot hold of a jaunting car, took a jaunt into the country (after jiosting our^letlers and scndin<; off a telej^ram) to a Mr. Smith Barry's place, a lovely place, but very much ne,L,dected as the owner never lives there. Ilavins; returned to Queenstown we lunched and went to the landing ^stage, having been told that the tender would leave at 2 o'clock ; on our way we were beset by endless ^ vendors of various goods, (matches, sticks, fruit, &c., c'vrc.,) while others tried to get our money without anything in return, but the "blessings of God Almighty" and wishes for a safe journey, Sec, &c., all of wliich we turned a deaf ear to, until B. H. B. at last parted with a shilling in exchange for a very pretty lace tie, after a girl had badgered us for about a (puirter of an hour, telling us she was sure there were plenty of young ladies we would like to give them to, &c. ; not content however with what she had forced upon us she tried to make us take more, so I told her we would give her the basket in which we had bought some strawberries for another tie, which she very willingly did. The tender at last started at 2.35, and in a few minutes we were alongside of the " Scythia " which had already got under weigh and was steaming slowly out of the harbour. Soon after we had landed the fog lifted and we saw Queenstown harbour beautifully— it is a lovely little land-locked harbour, I forgot to say that on Saturday there had been no motion what- ever on board, and it was not until about 6 o'clock on Sunday that we began to feel any motion, and even then it was scarcely perceptible. Soon after leaving Queenstown we got into a nasty damp fog, and as there was no attraction on deck we turned into our berths soon after lo o'clock. The Cajitaiii told B. H. B. that July and Auf^'ust arc the months in which there is most foj^'. The hours of meals on hoard are, Brccdxlast S.30 to lu; Lunch I to 2 ; Dinner 6 o'clock ; and Supper g to 10. Monday, 18th. — The Iol; has cleared off a hit and the sun comes out occasionally, there was more motion about the boat which ^^^radually increased as the day wore on ; we passed throu^^di a shoal of jiorpoises in the afternoon, and for some time there were three or four playing' about in front o( the bows of the shij), .ind it looked as if tluymust be smashed ; it was awlully amusinj^' to watch them dart aloni^ and tlum jump rii;lu out of the water, it is marvellous the pace they <;o. Gcor<;e and I spent a j^'ood lonj; time in the Cajitain's cabin which had been lent to the Duncans for the voyaj^e ; we had our first "cocktail" which is made as follows, as far as I could see, some red ii(|Uor was put into a tumbler with iced water, and then Mr. I), cut the skin of a lemon and just wetted the rim of the wine Ljlasses which he then dipped into pounded sufjjar, sprinkled the j^dasses with some bitters, then fdlcd the glasses with the mixture in the tumbler " et puis voila," not bad tipple, but I shouldn't care to j^^et screwed off it. This is rather a poor description of it, but I dare say I'll know more about it in three months' time. In course of conversation I found that Mrs. D. had had a son at VVarre's at Eton. Before leavini; the cabin I made myself useful by holdinj; Mrs. D's wool while she wound it. The evenini^ was not over fine and the other three turned into bed about 10 o'clock, and I followed about half-an-hour after, but not before I had found out the rin<^an<; of the " bells" which is as follows: — the watch is chani^^ed every four hours, and in that time the bells are rung eight times, i.e. every half-hour, so that (supposing we begin at S o'clock,) 8.30 is one bell, 9 o'clock two bells, &c., till 12 o'clock which is eight bells, then 12.30 again begins one bell, &c. I have not yet quite fathomed the mysteries of " the log." Tuesday, 19tll. — A glorious morning but decidedly more motion. The sea looked glorious when I went on deck at 8 o'clock, a lovel}- deep blue, and white horses in abundance. We had the "fiddles" on the tables to prevent the plates slipping off. Just before we went down to breakfast there was a rare big wave over the fore part of the ship, a regular swamper. There were not very many at lunch, B. II. B. was a missing link in our party — as indeed he had been for the two previous meals. Nothing exciting happened during the rest of the day. The dining saloon was only about half full at dinner, and Henri, although not actually ill, thought "discretion the better part of valour." When we went up on deck however, after dinner, the invalids were very fit, and we amused ourselves guessing (or rather trying to guess) riddles which Miss D. gave us. We also got into conversation with Francis Francis, ** The Times " correspondent. He had been through part of the Zulu war, and knew a Barton out there — but not Bob, as far as we could make out ; he had also been through Japan, and in the Turco-Russian war. The sea had been calming; dcnvii all clay, and by the evening' was oniv about Iiall as lou^li as it had been fust thin;,' in the morning, when there was decidedly a " steady breeze." The ni^dit was very dark, and the foam on the sea looked lovely, so that it was past ii before ]ov and 1 tuiiiud in. I ha\(> not yet made any remark upon the passen^'crs, about whom there is nothin;^ ver)' favourable to say, so I will merely say that they ari' chiell)- a very second rate lot. Then- is a poor Dr. and his little f,'irl (a French Pole) who seems a very nice fellow, but the poor man is overcome with ^Mief by the death of his wife. Besides him, as far as we have seen at present, there reall}' arc no nice jieople on boanl, except the Duncans ami Sir B. Cuiiard, the latter is, I believe, engaged to Miss D. Wednesday, 20th. — A nasty damp foggy morning but sea very calm, only the regular Atlantic swell. We were all at breakfast again, and I think all managed to make a very fair meal, (ieorge came down now looking cjuite the swell, ha\ing paid a visit to the barber — not before it was needtnl — and I am now about to follow suit. As to B. II. B ! ! he has most indubitaljly "got 'em all on." My \isit was most satisfactory as the barber shaves beautifully. In the afternoon, B. II. B. and I played that aristocratic game of " pitch farthing ! " at which I won a lot. A nasty fog came on in the evening, and about lO o'clock it became very thick and the fog whistle started. There was a glorious sunset, and the wind has been almost dead against us the whole day, but the sea calm. Before turning in at i 1.30, Joe and I went and stood right forward for a long time when we passed through a lot of shoals of fish which looked very curious by night, as the phosphorescent light on them looked very curious, they looked like huge long eels, and the general effect was very like those rockets which burst when in the air. Thursday, 21st.— Sea about the same, fog still as thick as last night, and fog whistle still going, joe has announced his intention of getting shaved. Wind still almost dead against us. Wilson (the Purser) tells Joe they have had bad winds almost every passage this year both ways. Head wind and fog continued all day, passcnl through a shoal of jiorpoises in th.c after- noon, and also through a lot of seaweed just before dinner. We got into conversation with a Mr. Shaw, an Englishman, a very nice gentlemanly sort of fellow, and a very keen sportsman, haxing shot in pretty nearly every country; he knows Sir Victor Brooke very well. He is now going out to shoot in the Rocky Mountains, where he expects to find chiefiy stags of two or three kinds, the wapiti being the finest of the lot, also antelope and a kind of roedeer, as well as the Rocky Mountain sheep, a fine animal, which stands about 12 hands high (measuring at the shoulder) and huge horns curling back over the back of the head. The shooting however is not what it used to be, as they have been very much shot down. When we came out of dinner we found it pouring hard, so, after spending a wretched evening, turned into bed early. ii i I Friday, 22lld. — A fine morning with a very calm sea. Fine all day and a li^lorious st.irli^'ht evening,'. Saw some porpoises in the afternoon, and spent the latter part of tlu; evening singing in the Captain's cabin. Saturday, 23rd. — A beastly foggy, rainy morning, and sea very rough. However, as tluMc was nothing to be done, I made myself as waterproof as possible and read ; the sea kept getting up pretty well all the mornmg, and about J. 30 we had a very sharp scjuall, which however lasted only about a quarter of an hour, during which time however we got pretty well washed, as the wind k(!pt blowing the spray all over us. VVe were under sail when the scpiall came on, but we had to shorten very soon as we kept heeling over awfully, one lime the fore part of the ship must have been ij feet or 2 feet deep in water as a huge wave came washing over us There was an awfully amusing sight when the sfjuall was at its liighest, when a monstrous wave heeled us over, about six or eight people, who were sitting down, all went rolling over, hugger mugger, all of a heap ; it was an awfully comical sight for the spectators, not so I expect for the "actors." Cunard (who has been across 28 times) says he does not remember ever having seen it rougher than it was just for that (juarter of an hour. The sea however went down very quickly, and by 7 o'clock there was no wind Init a long lollopping swell. It was a grand sight while it lasted, and I would not have missed it for anything, it gives us a faint (but very faint) idea of what a real hurricane or monsoon, &.c. must be. The evening was beastly, fog and rain, so we turned in soon after 10. Just before the squall caught us we passed quite close to a vessel scudding before the wind. Sunday, 24th. — A finer morning, but still the long heavy swell (which has a good deal to say for, I expect, this almost illegible writing of Friday and Saturday). Now for a shave! Weather continued fine all day. There was divine service at 10.30. We passed a great many vessels during the day. After dinner we were attracted forward by hearing the emigrants singing, and when we got there found that it was a service going on, after a few prayers one of the emigrants stood up and addressed the multitude. It was a fine night, although very dark, so Joe and I did not turn in till 11.30. We certainly have not had either favourable weather, or (with few exceptions) interesting passengers. Monday, 25t]l. — A glorious morning, and glorious all day. George and I played "pitch farthing" with Mr. D., and afterwards an American joined in, who eventually cleared us all out. In the afternoon there was great excitement, as there was a black fin-like thing seen sticking up out of the water, which the knowing ones say is a shark, so I can now say I've seen a shark ! We passed a lot of vessels during the day, but none very close. During dinner we took our pilot on board ; fancy their coming out such a long way, they prefer taking steamers in to sailing vessels, and will very often pretend not to see the latter, as of course they take much longer going in and joined great of the seen a close. such a y often in and do not draw so much water (the pilots arc paid according to the number of feet a vessel draws), and when they take any vessel into harbour they are bound to take her out again, so of course tiiese steamers jiay them best. I don't think I have made any mention of the Lawrences, a Mr. and Mrs. and three little brats, I have not personally spoken to them very much, but they are with the Duncan's a good deal, and seem very nice pcojile. Mrs. L. told George she hopes we would go and see her when we go to Hoston. The night was glorious ancl wc did not turn in till 1 1.45. I guess this will be the winding up of my " log letters " on board the " Scythia." You must excuse me if I write some things which don't interest you a bit, but as this is my diary as well as letter you must excuse me, though they may not interest you, they are things which I dcm't wish to forget. I hope we shall catch the return boat to morrow, for the present — Adios ! II. S. B. -^L^' I mi 1 1 .ii)iawjww. Their Lancers are somewhat different to ours. I can't say much about their habits now, as I have an awful lot to write up, bat will do so another time. There was a slight supper, but very good, about 11.30, and everyone was gone by soon after 12. Saturday, 30tll. — Went to town, and put up our traps which we want for our Canada trip. Came down with Ernest, who took us to some pigeon shooting, and in the evening we had a very pleasant dinner. We were asked for 7 o'clock dinner, but did not get there till 7.30, as we did not leave the pigeon ground till 6.30, and then did not get dinner till about 8.30, and it was 11.30 before we had done. '> It 511 :H 8 Sunday, 81st. — Went to church in tlic morning, after which went and saw some new kennels they are getting up, as they have a (bag fox) hunt here, and also saw where they are going to have their steeplechase in October. The rest of the day we did nothing much. Monday, August 1st. — Left Rockaway by 6.55 train, reaching New York at 8.15, where a carriage took us to the house, where we picked up our traps, and off to the steamer, on the Hudson River, which left at 9.30. There was a bit of a mist at starting, but it soon lifted, and we had a real warmer ! Wc went down to breakfast when we started, and by the time we came on deck the country was very pretty — at first on the left there was a perpendicular wall of rock, but soon after the country opened, and we could see some way round, it certainly was glorious — licks the Rhine into a cocked hat. My attempt at description of the scenery would give you not the faintest idea of what it is like, so I will not waste time and paper, all I can say is, that it beats any rivcy scenery I ever saw as yet. The most splendid part lasts for about two hours, which they call "the Highlands;" after that it gets less hilly, but is still very lovely ; and really the variety of scenery is wonderful, the last i^ or 2 hours, however, is very monotonous. We reached Albany about 6.15, where we took the "cars" for Saratoga, which we reached about 8.15, and betook ourselves to the United States Hotel — a regular enormous American hotel, of which you can have no idea until you have seen them. I will here tell you of the American " check system " of luggage, which is certainly very handy. Instead of pasting a label on your luggage they tie a brass " check" on, and also give you one to keep. Just before arriving at your destination they come round and ask what hotel you are going to, give you a ptcce of paper in exchange for the check, and when you get to the station you have only to go to your hotel, where your luggage soon follows. After a slight repast, we turned into bed. Tuesday, 2nd. — We were not up very early, and it was past 1 1 before we had done breakfast, so we strolled out to the race course, which is about one mile out of the town. We got there just in time to see the first race. It was grand to see the chap trying to start them, he wanted to get them all into line just like human l)eings ; they must have been a quarter of an hour or 20 minutes at least trying to start them. Meanwhile the spectators got impatient, and began to stamp, and clap, and hiss, ad. lib. The course is sand instead of grass, and so when they did get off there was a cloud of dust round them. There was not that awful betting row, as the " ring " was quite outside, and each bookmaker had his stand and a slate on which were written the names of the horses, and the odds are written opposite them, so there is no row whatever. The second race was a mile and three-quarters, but, as far as I can remember, did not take quite so long starting, and was a very close race. But the third race was the amusing one ; they were certainly over half an hour starting it, and the starter was in an awful rage, t - got and kept swearing he'd " suspend the whole lot of you, if you don't go further back," at which there was a general roar, and clapping, and stamping, and hissing. The jockeys were just like bags of potatoes tied on to their horses, and one little nigger jock had the reins twisted round his wrists, and held on to them like grim death — for fear he'd fall off, I suppose. But I must cut my description short, or I shall never have finished. The last race was a steeplechase, and the only jump I or anybody else could not have jumped on our legs was the brook, which really was a decent jump, but the others were simply laughable, one wall was i \ or 2 feet at most ! But the corners they turned were really awfully sharp, though the pace was not tremendous, so they had plenty of time to turn. The course (steeplechase) is a perfect maze, as they go winding about all over the place. The length of the enclosed space is about half to threc-cjuarters of a mile, and in that space (the breadth is about a ([uarter of a mile) they have 32 jumps (?) and the length of the race is about three miles I should think. Well, they took three hours for four races, though the last was a very tame start, as there were only four. Now I really must stop my account of these races, but not before I tell you they go on every day all through July and August. In the afternc .a we drove out to the Geyser and \'ichy Springs, which are both exceedingly nasty. After tasting them, we settled to walk back, and went up to an adjoining eminence, from where we saw the most loveh' sunset I evey saw. The colouring was marvellous, and we stood and watched it till all the effect was gone, and we then walked back (about two miles) arriving here about 8.30. Had some food, and went to hear the band in the Congress Park; we also heard a she "squealer" squealing "A little summer shower." So much for our first day at Saratoga. Wednesday, 3rd (AI. F. B.'s Birthday).— We started with a pull at the Congress Spring, which was a little less nasty than the other two we had tasted, then back to breakfast, and afterwards Joe, C, and self went and presented a letter of introduction from Mr. L. to Judge Brady, who was staying at the Grand Union. We asked for him at the hotel, and were told he was out on the piazza listening to the band. His dress was described to us, so we soon found him with his wife and daughter (a girl of fifteen). They seem very nice people, and we sat and talked for some time, and then they took us to see their L, T. court, which they have put down in the garden of the hotel. They asked us to go and play there this afternoon, which we said we should be very happy to do, though I expect it will be a funny game, as the court (which is very much under size) is marked out with little bits of tape running in different directions — a crop of grass which would have done father's heart good to have seen on his meadows this year; and, in order to make sure of playing in the cool, there is a nice tree in each court. I shall certainly write to " The Field " when I get back, and advise them to adopt the style in England : it would be so much pleasanter to play in the shade ; don't you think so ? Besides, it would be such fun taking shots at the tree. I I M :l| i I I i;;ni ^^ lO In course of conversation, the Judge happened to mention the name of a CharHe Clynch who is staying in the hotel, who turns out to be an old Bordeaux friend of George's. After a little more talky-talky, we returned to our hotel, where we found Henri had been making the accjuaintance of a Madame Neuvil, to whom he had a letter of introduction. We then wrote till 2.45, when we, went and had some food, and Joe, G., and I took a carriage (two horses), and drove ourselves over to Saratoga Lake, about four miles out. Poor H.J. was unable to come, as he was wild with toothache. We started about 3.40 and got to the lake about 4 o'clock, we saw a notice to the effect that a steamer went to the other end of the lake at 4.30, so we decided to take that, however on our way down we saw a sailing boat, thinking it would be preferable to the steamer, Joe suggested our taking it, so we went and asked Mr. Moon if we might have it, and to the question "I suppose you know how to manage her" we boldly answered (though I fear with a slight deviation from the truth) "oh dear yes"! accordingly old M. sends a boy to " fix us out " and we started with a fresh breeze blowing right in our teeth, however nothing daunted, Joe lays hold of the tiller and off we go, but not ([uitc in the direction we wished, for instead of standing out to sea, the silly thing jibbed and refused to obey either whip or spur, and we as near as possible ran back on to shore, when suddenly she went about and we started off on the other tack, but only to run into a sort of landing stage where they were building a steamer ; she absolutely refused to leave this until we got shoved off, and then somehow (but I dont know /W(C') we got out and then got on somewhat slowly as the wind had dropped pretty co/zsiderably ; but nc\ertheless we \\ere indubitably moving, but somehow she would not go on the starboard tack, and so we had to let the disagreeable thing have her way and keep edging along on the other tack ; we had great discussions as to whether we ought to keep our sheets tight or slack. However on we went, slowly but surely, gradually we went slower and slower until we scarcely moved, and we came to the conclusion that we were becalmed in the middle of the lake, about ij miles from our starting place ; so I had to get out our one and only scull and scull from behind (sea fashion, i.e. by turning the scull from side to side), we had gone a little way like this when we saw the steam launch coming to tow us in, and so ended our eventful sail on the Lake of Saratoga. I forgot to say that the stupid boat had not the sense to turn herself when we wanted to go on a different tack, and we had to shove her head round with the scull. Not content with being on the lake we thought we must go into it, so we went up to the house and asked where we could bathe, and they told us to go out to a point of land about one mile distant, but they had no towels ; however we said " blow the <^^wels, w'e'll dry without them," so off we started ; but to make it clearer I'll little ground plan. A The House. B The Bridge. C The Bathing Place. D Point where we discovered our mistake. n We left the house and went round over the bridge, and round by the road to the point C, where we had to wade for about 30 yards before we got into deep water enough to swim. We dried ourselves by rubbing ourselves, and then set off home, but as it was then 7.40, and our dinner was ordered for 7.30, we thought, instead of going round by the road we would make straight for the bridge f however, if we did, we only found ourselves at the point D, and had to strike across through an awful thick wood, and we found we were surnjunded evjry where by a beastly bog and awfully thick underwood to get through ; however, we Houndered on and on, getting awfully wet and hot, and getting into worse and worse going as we got on ; however, on we scrambled as best we could, and at last got the road, and got back to the house at 8.30, in an awful state, and an hour late for our dinner ; however, our ardour was not damped, and we agreed we would not forget Minnie's 25th birthdax' in a hurry. When we got well out of the wood George told us a serpent had passed between him and me when we were in the l)og ! Mr. Duncan had told us to order bass (a kind of fish), and owls! for our dinner. This we accordingly did, and they certainly were very good, and with the former we had potatoes done up most deliciously. It is a " specialite " of Moon's, and is excellent. The owls are really young game which are not allowed to be shot, but they are shot, and as they don't like to call it game openly, they call them owls. These two courses, with iced cream and two bottles (jf champa,i,nie (for, as you may imagine, our afternoon's amusement had given us a good thirst) comj')Ieted our (excellent) dinner, for which by the bye we had to pay 16 dollars ! or about £i 4s. — nice and cheaji ! We began by drinking the Goat's health altogether at the first sip, and having drunk absent friends, &c., tSrc, finished up with our own health, and a safe return. We then got into our trap, and drove home, and, my hat ! but they did just go. I don't think we were more than a cjuarter of an hour coming back ! I forgot to tell you that about half way there, as we went, one of our nags cast a shoe, or else we should most likely have driven round to the Sulphur Springs, at the other end of the lake, but I'm sure we should not have had such fun. I also forgot to say that on Tuesday, p.m., we sent up our letter of introduction from Mr. L. to a Mr. Travers, who is staying in the hotel ; he appeared, after keeping us waiting about one hour, and has very kindly given us two letters for people at Newport. 1 '• I 'Ai Thursday, 4th.— Had a pull at the Columbia Spring, and went and called on Madam(> Rene's motlier. The rest of the morning has b(H>n spent in writing ; and I must now shut up as it is time to get some food before driving out with Mrs. Rene's ma. I forgot to say that on our return last night we found Henri minus a tooth, which he had had taken out, and this morning he had another stopped. I ,re?Jly must shut up now. Hoping you have enjoyed your trip. ' " , , H. S. B. 1^ JOURNAL III. Thursday, 4th {continued.) — I am now writing; on the Piazza of the Fort William Henry Hotel, on the cd,i,^e of Lake Gcorj:;e (Saturday, 5.30 p.m.) We f^ot back from our drive at 6 o'clock, and went and had our <;ame of Lawn Tennis with the Bradys (or, as G. calls them, the Brandies !) We played till 7.15, and the jud;j;c asked us if we would not have supper with them and ^o to their "hop" afterwards, which kind invitation we accepted with thanks. Whilst we were playinij;, the band of the 7th Regiment (a sort of militia), came into the hotel gardens with a part of the regiment. The band was somewhat of an inferior sort, and the uniform was very curious, and I should think not very practical. At 7.15 we retired to our hotel, dressed, and were back at the Grand Union by 8 o'clock. After waiting a long time we got our supper, and then retired to the ball room, a splendid room, kept for dancing only. The floor and the music were both very good, and two or three good partners would have made it perfection. I was introduced to a Miss B , not a bad dancer. There were some very curious specimens of humanity. The entertainment was brought to a close at 11 o'clock. Friday, 5th. — We had intended leaving for Lake George by the 8.40 a.m. However, the Judge offered to take us to Judge Hilton's place, a large park of 400 acres, about one mile out of Saratoga, so as we were not tied dow^n to any particular day, we accepted the invitation, the more readily as he told us it was almost the only place of the kind in the whole of the States, as there are no parks over here as we have in our country. We left the hotel at 10 o'clock, and drove up to the house, and were shown all over it by the daughter of the owner. It is (like nearly all the houses in this part of the country), built of wood, and most bemitifnUy fitted up with everything which money could purchase, and at the same time arranged wiLh great taste. The bedsteads are all of the most lovely carving or rare woods ; the mantel-pieces are all very pretty, being of wood with a looking glass at the back. They have also most beautiful little marble statues, and huge carved vases of alabaster and white marble, from Italy; lots of old French clocks, &c., and old furniture to any extent, as well as imitation old ; some splendid bronzes too — in fact everything you could possibly think of, and, above all, a most perfect system of ventilation, and all this, wc were told by the Judge (Brady), is merely the scum and refuse of their houso in New York ! After seeing all over the house, we went out to the stables, 'about which the less said the better. We then drove back to the hotel, which we reached soon after noon, where we parted with our friend the Judge, who expressed the desire that he 13 would see somethincj of us when we cjot back to New York. He really seems a nice old chap, ancl was most kind and ^'ood natured to us. The wife of a Judge is a lady over here; the dau.L^ditcr is a jolly little thin,L,s and thry don't give one the idea of being very American ; in iact we are beginning to think that the really respectable Americans don't " guess," &c., so much, although of course there is almost always a certam something about them that denotes their nationality. We left by the 2. so ji.m., and arriNcd at the Glen Falls about 3.45, where we took the coach on to hire — nine miles from Glen Falls. The road was very pretty as we came along, but we could not see the country at all well as there was such a haze. W'e were in an awful state by the time we got here (3.45 p.m.), what with the heat, which was " intense," and the dirtiness of the railway, which had the same .'esthetic propensity, viz., "intense," so we were not sorry to have a dip in the lake, after which we had supper, and after an ineffectual attempt to get a boat, turned into bed. Saturday, 6th. — The haze was still thick, so we could not see the beauties of the lake ; it promised to be a rare pii)er, so after a diji in the lake we started at 9 o'clock for a tramp up an adjoining hill, more with a view to exercise than with hopes of a view. It soon bi'gan to be very warm, and before we had arrived at the top (i 1.15), we had lost a good deal of supertluous flesh. We got down to the hotel about 12.30, and Joe and I had a (lip in the lake, the other two preferred a bath, after which we ilid justice to our diimer, (especially the li(pior), and then tried to write, but with not much success. At 4 o'clock we went out tishing, and I actualK' caught three hsh (bass.) George was the first to get his line out, and feeling a jiull, asks what he is to do with it, and when we all told him to pull it in he swung it round into my face ! — real jam for me ! At 6 o'clock we saw a storm coining up, so came in, having caught 18 fish altogether (we four and the man.) Having nothing to do before supper, we had another dij), during which tiiiK; the storm came up, and it began to jiour, and never ceased till 12 o'clock this (Sunda)) morning. In the evening there was a cotillion, and the evening before there was also a bit of a hop. Sunday, 7th. — Poured until 12 o'clock, so we wrote all the morning, and in the afternoon, at 4.30, Joe, G., and I started out for a strf)ll, and were not back till 8 o'clock. We strolled along for about four or five miles along a very pretty road, with a most beautiful ferner\- for the best part of the way. We measured one huge frond ; it was about 4 feet long, and about 14 inches across. W^e took some of the seeds, but I don't sup])ose they will come to such a size out of their native soil, I certainlv never saw such a mass of ferns of all sorts, and the variety of trees too was wonderful. We came back through the woods, where we found maidenhair growing in masses as close as it could possibly be crammed. It is not cjuite the same as our English fern, and is of course much coarser, (no joke intended.) I have got some seeds in the faint hope that they may grow, but it (like the other fern), wants a very I- 1 m 111 '■1. :■ % f 14 moist soil. We have not at present seen a great quantity of birds, but then we certainly have not had very favourable weather for them, nor have we seen very many wild flowers. Monday, 8th. — Left Fort William Henry Hotel at 8.45 a.m., and arrived at the other end of the lake (33 miles), about 12 o'clock, at a place called Baldwin. I will attempt to give you some idea of Lake George ; although 33 miles long you nevt;r see more than about half that distance, as it is so full of islands (varying in length from about three-(iuarters of a mile — though very few are as big as that — down to mere rocks), so you are not wearied with a huge expanse of water with nothing to break the monotony. The wooded slopes of the mountains too descend to the very edge of the water, and there are little chalets imd houses here and there, and in the back ground there is always a range of mountains. In some parts the mountains are very bare, and come down shere into the water. At Baldwin we took the train (five miles), to Lake Champlain (126 miles long, but only 12 miles at the broadest, while at one part it is ([uite narrow.) The first hour there is nothing extremely striking, but after that it becomes simply lo\ely. On the left side you have the mountains cjuite close above, and for some time they come right down into the lake, sometimes in beautiful shelving rocks, with a few trees ; at another time a broken mass will come straight down into the water, while on the right the ground is slightly undulating, sometimes cultivated, some- times with woods, and then right far away in the background rises a most perfect ridge of mountains. As you get more north the lake widens out, and the hills on the left stand back further, and it is quite different scenery. But just about here (Burlington), it is not quite so pretty, and the lake is about its widest, I forgot to say that the hills on the left are the Adirondacks, and are very curious and grand scenery, on account of the mountains, passes, and lovely lakes (according to the guide). We arrived here (Burlington), about 5.30 p.m., and took a stroll round this not-particularly-inviting-looking town, returned to our hotel (American), at 7.30, and after dinner wrote our diaries ready to send off to-night. Tomorrow we go over the lake to see a wonderful chasm (Ausable), and intend taking the g.20 train into Boston tomorrow evening, which lands us there about 8 o'clock next morning, and then, after two or three days, on to Newport. We expect letters at Boston, as we received a telegram this evening from La Montague asking us where he should forward letters to. The man is evidently anxious to turn out the gas, so I will " dry up " with love to all from H. S. B. ,i« JOURNAL IV. B. Tuesday, 9th. — Took the 8.45 bojU across the hike to Port Kent, where we arrived about 9.45. There was quite a stronj^ wind blowinj^, and there were quite httle waves, which ^^ave us a bit ol motion. At Port Kent we took the C(>acli to Lake \'iew House (3 miles), and lrt)m thence set out on foot for the Ausable chasm, a three minutes' walk brouf^dit us to the river Ausable; it is not a very bi,i( river and comes tumblin*; over some rocks, but from no j^reat heijjfht, then about 500 yards below, it flows over some other falls — the f^'uide book says 70 feet, but I should think it was a short 70 feet — however it is very pretty ; about 300 }ards lower down, the river flows over the horse shoe falls, and instead of beinj^ about 80 or 100 feet broad, becomes about 20, and consequenlh- rushes alonj^^ with tremendous force through a gorge or chasm of about 2 miles long, being sometimes not more than 8 or 10 feet wide, and the rocks go straight up for about 80 or 100 feet, the effect is very grand, and along the sides there are great fissures covered with small trees and ferns; steps and railings have been fixed along the side, so you can go the whole lengths of the chasm, which in man)' places is crossed by bridges; after about i\ miles the chasm gets narnnver still and the rocks on both sides come shere down lor about 120 feet, and as the stream is free from rocks they have a boat which holds about thirteen people, and they take you down this very narrow part whicli lasts for about 40 or 50 yards, and then into a more open pool, after w'hich you shoot the rapids, which are about 30 or 40 yards long and bubbling and boiling up all round you ; but the men manage the boat most beautifully — there are two men, one at each end, and they guide the boat entirely with Indian paddles, the boat is the same shape both ends and very high at sides; I forgot to say we had some miniature rapids in the first narrow bit, and there is a very strong current all the way through, as there are no rocks it is pcrfectl}- smooth, though you can see that you are going down hill all the time — so steep is the incline — it has a most curious effect seeing the water all on a slant, we watched the return boat coming back empty — they always land you after going down the rapids — and they must have hard work to get back, we could only see them coming up the narrow part, as after that the stream takes a sharp bend, they paddle up the part where there is least stream, and then haul themselves up by means of ropes fixed to the rocks when coming up the small rapids; but when coming up the big rapids (one of the men told us) one of them gets out and tows the boat up, it must be fearful hard \vork. Having landed we walked back to the hotel, where we fed, and after dinner, as we had to wait two hours before the coach started, we walked back to the lake and there waited ij hours for the boat, which made its appearance at 5.15, and landed us at Burlington i'! i6 about 6.15. Wc then had supper (and some rfdicic^us honey in comb), but the wine (St. JuHcn ? ? ?) was such filthy slufl' wc were ohhf^cd to leave it. At 9.20 wc took the train for Boston, (we had lelcf^r.iphed for lour places in a sleeping car,) which we reached at 9.40 a.m., the nc \t morning. Wednesday, 10th. — Arrived at the hotel (Parker's Mouse), wc found that they could only give us four separate rooms on four different stories, however it couldn't be heljicd, and as we were not staying long it didn't matter very much ; after a wash and some food wc set out on our tramp to deliver our letters of introduction, hut, with one exception, they were all out of town, as there is ahsolutcl}- no one staying in town now; the one exception was a Mr. Rotch, a business man, who very kindl}' told us what was to be done, so after sitting with him for a few minutes wc set out to see Harvard College, one of their Universities over this side — there are about 1300 students, and about 4 or 5 scjiaratc houses used as dormitories, which different people have given to the University ; their system seems something like ours, but very different in some respects, for boys go there as young as fourteen, sometimes when they get through their exams, at the public schools ; they each have a bedroom, and a sitting room for two; there has lately been built a large hall in memory of the students who fell in the civil war. It is a huge building, and in a few years will look rather well, but it is only about 2 or 3 }ears old now. After Harvard College we walked out to Mount Auburn Cemetery, but on the way H. J. and I turned off to see Professor Longfellow's house, which is (with all due deference to the great man) about as ugly a thing as ever it was my misfortune to set my eyes on — a square wooden house painted a lightish yellow, with blue shutters — after gazing at this "discordant harmony" for a few seconds we went after the other two whom we found waiting for us in the cemetery, of which the "tout ensemble" is very pretty and very well kept, but the tombstones themselves are all of them very ugly, not one nice one did we see ; after looking about there for a few minutes, we took the tram back to Boston, where we took a pleasure steamer and went out to a little island where there are a lot of large hotels and people go out there in the evening to dine ; after about twenty minutes on the steamer we came to the end of the island where we took the "cars" for five or ten minutes, which brought us to (evidently) the favorite hotel, here we had dinner and afterwards listened to an awtul band for about a quarter of an hour ; we then took the train back to the end of the island, and got back to Boston city about 11 o'clock. Mr. Rotch had told us it was quite "the thing" to do and so we did it, but I shouldn't care to repeat the dose, as the people were the funiest lot I ever saw, I don't exactly know what they were — shopkeepers &c., I should think. Thursday, 11th.— We had settled to take a 10.45 a.m. boat out to an island called Nahant, which Rotch had told us was very pretty ; it is a little island covered with little chalets, where people who wish to be quite quiet go out in the summer. Moreover, two people, to whom H. J. had letters, were staying there — the Amoreys and the Bradleys. There are two Amorey 11 couples, an old couple, and their son, married to the Judd's old ^'overncss; and it was to her that H. J. had his letter. I was for^'ettin<,' that we are not yet on board the boat, in fact some hours from it ; for not being certain of our way to the wharf, and not having started any too soon from the lu)ti:l, we were just in time to see the boat moving off; and as the next boat was not till 2.30 p.m., we spent our time by going to the Boston Museum (where there was the greatest collection of rubbish I ever saw, with a specimen of a mermaid caught off the coast of Japan, and the warrant to execute Charles I.) Then on to the State House, where there was absolutely nothing to be seen, except a great collection of old standards — all very interesting in its way! After seeing these varied works of nature and of art, we returned to Parker's house, where, after writing for a little, we had some food, and started off to catch the 2.30 boat, and this time with more success, and in an hour's time landed at Nahant Island. As we had not the least idea where these good people lived, we went up and asked an old gentleman if he could tell us where the Amorey's house was, whereupon the old boy told us to hop into his carriage and he would take us there, as he was a cousin of theirs. So in we hopped, and he dropped us just outside their gate, and in we walked ; and, having agitated the communicator, out comes an old lady, whom Henri tried to introduce himself to, but the old girl was awfully deaf, and pulled out her ear trumpet, which manoeuvre Henri didn't quite understand. However, he very soon saw what was up, and, after bellowing into the old lady's ear, she went in and called her hub., who was more get-on-able with, and a very nice old chap. After a few minutes, Mrs. A., junior, appeared on the scene, and was almost mad with joy at seeing us, and talking about everyone. Afterwards her hub., appeared, and after talking some time they told us we must stay for dinner. They were so kind and hearty that we had nothing to do but to accept, although we had fed only just before starting. We had to leave soon after dinner, as the last boat back to Boston left at 6 o'clock, so we had not time to go and see the Bradleys. We got back to Boston soon after 7 o'clock, and having nothing particular to do, I went to see "The Mascotte " with Henri and George, whilst Joe went back to the hotel to write. The theatre was a very fair sized one, but the performers were decidedly poor. We did not expect to see anything very great, but we had nothing else to do, and the other two had seen it in French and said it was very amusing and pretty. Friday, 12t]l. — We left Boston at 11.30 a.m., and got to Newport at 2.15 ; but before going further, I must give you my impression of Boston, which is a much more favourable one than that of New York. It is certainly a very fine town, with fine buildings — not public ones, but shops and companies, &c., &c. — and fine streets, which are not at all badly paved ; and the telegraph and telephone wires (of which there are quite as many as in New York) instead of being put up in the street on poles, are laid on the tops of the houses as in London. Some of the private houses too are very fine, and look well kept; the streets are crammed with tramways running Hi: TT I 11 ■ ;i i8 in every direction ; a hired carrinf»c is hardly ever to be seen about the streets. In the middle of the town there is a very nice public garden, laid out with flowers, and a miniature Serpentine. The tniite ensemble is vefy pretty, thnuj^h whoever laid out the bods had not much idea of colouring,', as piiil'■ :;»). 11 32 awful sort of gil bcrisli of French patois. As to the hotel i it is without exception, I thin a, about the worst I ever was in. Ihe feeling is simply beastly. It is six of one and half-a-dozen of the other, wheLlier this or the hotel of Wurzburf; * is the worst. Now I have no more to say, so will close this ready to send off to-morrow to catch the mail at New York on i'riday. ♦ 111 1880, B. II, U. and 1 stoi)i>cd a night at Wurzburg, where wo put up at, what tu-noJ out to be, a most disgusting hutol. H. s. B. -^c^ Hii JOURNAL VII. Monday, 29th.— Wo started drivincj soon after 8 a.m., for the Mont- morency l''alls, alonj^' a very \\'^\y road, Itut we f,'ot a jolly view of the opposite side of the river, and a capital view of Quebec, which certainly looks far better at a distance. The falls are about nine miles from Quebec, and we Rot there about 9.30. We then f(ot down and walked about half a mile to the falls, and down a tremendous lf)t of stejis, so that we looked up at thtMn they are certainly splendid. The water falls about 300 feet, and they are about 100 feet broad, I should peril Th lart ^, more. vtMume 01 waier, some 01 wincn snoots clean over, and docs'nt touch the rocks till about halfway down, when it is evidently cau,L(ht by a basin from which it is shot out apjain by the force of the water following,' it, upwards, and then falls down below, while to the left there is not such a shoot, and the water falls from rock to rock, and the effect is lovely. The sun was shiniuf; on the spray, so that there was a lovely rainbow of prismatic (I.E.B. !) colours. The water falls into a lar<:,^e lagoon, which soon after flows into the St. Lawrence. We sat there for some time looking at the falls, and then drove back to the hotel, which we reached about 11.30. We then went up and made ourselves respectable, and went off to the Governor's country place (Spencer Wood), for lunch at i o'clock. We were introduced to Madame, and after lunch walked about the place with Monsieur. We had a very interesting time, as he was very good natured, and told us a good bit about the country, &c., &c. Though, as a greater part of the conversation was carried on in French, I did not understand half he said. Quebec is about 500 miles from the actual mouth of the river, and the tide is felt for 90 miles above this ! He pointed out to us the very place where Wolfe marched his army up into the plains of Abraham after making an unsuccessful attempt on Quebec lower down the river. Montcalm at the time was in the fortifications, and was astounded when he found the English in the plains of Abraham, for they came there by night, and instead of staying in his fort and saying to the English "come on yourself," he went out into the open plain, where of course he got " what for ! " He showed us a very nice looking mare of his who was just recovering from a nasty w^ound just above the near hock ; he thinks it was done (maliciously) with a hatchet when grazing in the field. There were some men mowing oats just outside the house, and they had a most peculiar sort of rake above the scythe which caught the oats, and then they threw it ofif when they had finished their stroke ; I could not make out what the object of it was. We left his house at about 4 o'clock, and walked back to the hotel, and then Joe, G. and I went to a furrier's shop (Renfrew), it was a good one, and I believe I have seen the name in England I 34 After looking at all their furs and askinp; all their names, &c., we invested in some rare fjood (thouj^di not eler,fant) gloves. There were some jolly foxes' furs, some beautiful Arctic fellows, and silver foxes ; the latter's skins are worth 80 dollars (i.e., £i(^).) They had got some rare jolly beaver's fur ; what jolly fur it is, I had never seen any before ; it is very like sealskin, but lighter colour and longer hair. The sealskins they import from England ! We also saw a cloak lined with S(|uirrels' throats; there are hundreds of the little beggars' throats in one cloak, and it is ver}- pretty. I forgot to say that besides the silver fox (which is blackish, with occasional white hairs), and the Arctic, they had some others, more like our wily ones, though of a brighter coloni, and some such fine brushes. They also had some few heads, though no very fine ones. There was a head of the Rocky Mountain sheep, like the horns of a huge ram, and its head is heavier than its body, so it is always falling on its horns. The horns of the caribou are most curious, and not pretty, unlike anything I ever saw. We saw several other skins and furs, besides a few heads, but there were no very fine ones of the latter. We then went back to the hotel, and after some food we found a Mr. Humphrey waiting for us. Henri had a letter of introduction to him, as he is a partner in a Gold Mine Company lately started out here, in which Uncle Harry has got some shares. He asked us if we would like to go over and see the mines, and how they are worked, &c., and as we thought it was an opportunity not to be lost, we willingly accepted. It is 45 miles of railroad and 25 to drive, I believe, and very rough, but he says he can promise us plenty of good bread and butter and cream, at which didn't Joe and I smack our lips, as we have not had real good butter once yet, and it is almost always very much the other way. After a short stroll on the promenade we turned in and packed. Tuesday, SOth. — The boat for the Saguenay was supposed to start at 7.30 by which time we were all aboard, but wc had to wait for the boat from Montreal till about 8 o'clock. We went down and had breakfast as soon as we could, and by the time we got upon deck again the river was very pretty, especially the left bank, the right bank is the Isle of Orleans, which is 21 miles long, and in some places 5 miles broad — a nice little Eyot to be in a river! But just by Quebec itself the river is hardly i mile broad. We passed lots of flocks of wild duck on the right bank. The left bank seemed fairly thickly sprinkled with cottages, and the land was cultivated a good bit. There were some hills standing a little way back, then a lower range of hills, which were partly cultivated and partly in their wooded state, came sloping down to the water's edge. After about 20 miles the lower range "softly and silently vanished away" till at length the mountains came right down to the water's edge. After passing the Isle of Orleans there were some other little islands, but we could not see them much as the river was very broad — about 5 or 6 miles I believe — and there was a very heavy haze, moreover we kept very close to the left bank, which for a long way was a series of high wooded hills about 2000 feet high, which came do^ n to the water's edge, sometimes in gentle slopes, and sometimes in rugged steep descents; after this, which lasts for a :i S I start at at from soon as pretty, h is 21 )e in a passed d fairly Til ere , which own to silently water's islands, t 5 or 6 ry close Is about gentle ts for a 35 long time, there is a most lovely piece oi half-cultivated, half-forest land ; it is a long lowish mountain slojiing gently down, but ending in rugged cliffs. We went close to tliis and afterwards went down to dinner at i o'clock. When we came up the scenery was somewhat wilder again, on the left there were lots of little islands, and in one of these we saw the effect of the celebrated "Mirage of the Wilderness" most beautifully in the distance, I cannot explain it, and if I could, you would not be the least able to picture it as it really is. By this time it was much clearer and we could see the rocky shore on the riglit hand very well — the river (so says the guide) is 20 miles broad here, but I know not how true it may be — later on in the afternoon the scenery was less striking, and the colours not so fine. But the splendid scenery we passed through before this, I cannot give you any idea of, superbly grand is all I can say for it. It was very refreshing to see cultivated land again. We saw a big porpoise rolling along in the afternoon. We had a rather poor sunset, and the night is not over fine, at least there is no moon and the stars are not over bright. We got to the mouth of the Saguenay at 8.30, and, after writing my opinion of the St. Lawrence, turned into my berth, we had two cabins, ours was not enormous, but the other two had quite a large room. Wednesday, 31st. — We were astir about 5.30, and made Chicoutina at 6 o'clock, where, as we had an hour to wait, we took a bit of a tramp, but found nothing exciting, and so returned to our ship about 6.40, when we found them shippin,^ 'ows, and it was not hard to see that they were of French extraction — (i) by the horrid row they made, and (2) by the brutal way in which they treated the poor animals, one of which fell overboard, but swam ashore and was shipped again. W^c started about 7.30 on our way back, but began by going down to breakfast. Chicoutina is a little village by the river's side, on the left bank going up stream : it is not particularly striking, but the little bay on the opposite side is rather pretty. When we came up from breakfast we were quite in the regular Saguenay scenery, which consists of highish hills of bare rock with but few trees, except in places, where they are tjuite thick; but there is evidently next to no earth for the wretched trees to take root. W^e unluckily had rather a cloudy day, so had but very few jolly lights on the rocks. The hills in some places slope down to the water's edge, but the greater part come down in great precipices. The hills gradually got higher and higher, and steeper and steeper, till at length we came to Capes Trinity and Eternity, which are enormous mountains of rock of 1900 feet, rising quite perpendicularly out of the water without the shadow of a slope until just at the top, where it is crowned with trees. The steamer here just went round the corner of the bay, so close under that you could throw a stone and hit the side of the mount with the greatest ease. You have no idea of the height when you are under it, and I put it down at between 800 and 1000 feet, when I asked ioe what he thought it was, and he said he had just read it was igoo feet igh. These enormous mounts of rock end in three huge masses, which look as if they had been piled one on the other. The mountains still f f 1 -if m -M'.' \ il ! •* f.:l:ili 36 continued to be very grand — though not so fearfully perpendicular — right up to the end of the Saguenay, which we reached at 2 o'clock. The Saguenay is, I believe, perfectly unique ; the scenery is — I hardly know what to call it — "grand " is hardly the epithet, as there is such a fearful air of desolateness about it all, and at the same time it is extremely grand to see those huge masses of rock coming down straight into the water. From Chicoutina to Tadousac there is scarce a house to be seen. These rocks too, I believe, continue for an enormous way under water, and perhaps it is partly owing to that that the water is very dark, and when contrasted by the foam which the paddles throw up it is quite brown — very curious. At Tadousac we were told that there was a curious old church to be seen about a mile off, so Joe, G. and I set off to see it ; we found a short cut through the woods, which brought us to it in less than a mile. But on our way there wc saw a very curious perfectly white broad streak of light, just above the water, out in the middle of the St. Lawrence, and a few minutes afterwards didn't we just catch it ! and when we did get to the chapel there was nothing on earth to see in it. On our way back we met a lot of people who were also going lO see it, who accosted us variously with, " Seen the chapel?" " How far is it?" &c. ; and one old fellow said to us, wdth a somewhat Hibernian accent, "Is there any chapel to be seen at all?" Another old character, on our answering in the affirmative to the same question, said, "D d if I know what I want to go to see a chapel for." It sounds vcr}- tame on paper, but you should have heard the way it was said, we nearly all burst out laughing. On our way back we stopped to see some arrangements they have got for salmon breeding. George spoke to a man in French (tlicy don't understand English here in this wild part), and he was very much amused at the old French the man used in replying. Henri says he has noticed that it is a very old fashioned French they speak. Wc left Tadousac soon after 3 o'clock. I cannot write more to-day, as it is only just ih minutes to 5, with a beastly fog, so we can't see much of the furthest shore, wc are going back close to the opposite shore to that which wc went going out. We have made out, according to a map, that the broadest part of the river between Saguenay and Quebec is about 16 miles, and at the Saguenay itself it is not more than 15 miles. Nothing particular happened since I finished writing. It was a nasty evening, so we had our game of whist and turned into bed about 9.30. Thursday, September 1st.— A fine morning; it is now 8.30 a.m., and we are nearing Quebec. We take a train at 10 o'clock for the Gold Mines and return Saturday mid-day, when we take the 5 o'clock boat, which gets to Montrccd at 6 a.m. Sunday. Although we shall not see much of the river we think it is preferable to 5|- hours of train, and so much cheaper. H. S. D, We have got about 500 boxes of bilberries on board for the market at Quebec. ghtup ^uenay ill it— iteness 2 huge tina to )elieve, wing to ich the 'c were so Joe, , which T a very t in the we just ;arth to ming lO ris'it?" accent, on our I know .per, but aughing. got for erstand the okl is a very o'clock. I beastly ck close adc out, agucnay ^re than t was a at 9.30. i.m., and Id Mines ;h gets to river we A. S. B. narket at JOURNAL VIII Thursday, September 1st (continued). — We made Quebec at 8.50, and having put our things into the hotel 'bus, set off to see the Laval University, where there is "the finest collection of pictures north of New York." All I can say is, " I'm sorry for the others," as it certainly was not a marvellously fine collection. After the pictures, of which there are about 150, we walked quickly through the collection of machinery, and then came to the geological collection, which, I should think, is not a bad one. After that we came to a collection of woods, which was very interesting. There were some splendid pieces of black walnut, some polished and others unpolished ; and in the next room we went into, instead of having boards of about one inch thick, as in the first room, they had just taken a small piece of a branch, sawn it in half, and polished one side, leaving the other unpolished. There was a most lovely piece of wood ticketed " Vinaigrier," but we could not make out what the English for it is. There Avere lots of other bits of very pretty wood, but this was the pick of the lot, — only fancy doors made of it ! It is a dark wood with a grain about \ inch broad, or perhaps less, and between each grain there was a light streak ; you've no idea how lovely it was. There were some very curious specimens of freaks of nature in the way of trees too, one bough about 15 feet long was simply one mass of huge knobs and bosses ; there were also some enormous fungi, and endless different things which I cannot describe in the least. There was one log of wood with a regular handle to it, thus and another a stick about i foot long with a huge ball of wood at the end of it. With every piece of wood there was a slip of paper saying whether it was good wood or not, and what its qualities were. I should like to have spent a long time there, but we had to push on. The next thing was a zoological collection, which, as you may imagine, interested me immensely. Their collection of animals was nothing very wonderful, and very badly stuffed, but we saw a "caribou or reindeer." I had no idea that they were the same animal. There was also the head of a chamois. Their collection of birds is rather a good one, I should imagine, but so badly stuffed. There was also a rattlesnake in the collection (not of birds I don't mean ! ) ; he evidently doesn't sting, but bites, as he had some very nasty looking teeth ; it is a pretty beast, about 4 or 5 feet long. The collection of fish I did not look very much at, but it did not seem particularly good. There was a "mackerel shark," marked very much like a mackerel, and about 5 feet long, not flat like the other shark but round like a porpoise, with such a mouth. There was also the jaw I vn m '*! ^ \ '■■Hi 38 of a whale. After this we went up to the library, which did not interest me quite as much. After that we tried to get into the Ursulinc Convent, where there is said to be a fine collection of pictures, but being unable to find out how to get in we returned to the hotel. After seeing to one or two O. J.'s, and having received mother's letter — for which many thanks — we took the 'bus down to the ferry, which landed us the other side of the river (Point Levi) ; there, after a couple of miles' drive, we took the train for Beauce Junction, were we were met by Mr. Humphrey. The line was only opened as far as Beauce last year, and on asking the ticket man how long a return ticket lasted, "Oh, about lo or 12 days!" Beauce Junction, on the Quebec Central R. R., is about 45 miles from Point Levi; we got there about 2.30. Henri went with Mr. H., and we other three in a carriage he had brought for us ; such a trap, and such horses, and such a road — " very good for the liver." At 5 o'clock we stopped at a village for tea — very rustic, but so good, and oh ! the cream ! ! ! ! but the butter was, sad to relate, not nice. After waiting there for an hour we pushed on. While we were there Mr. H. told us a good bit about himself; he has knocked about a good bit in the backwoods and rough country, as well as amongst the Indians, and he can speak their language. He once went through 300 miles of desert country, where a white man had never been before. He did it, as he, himself, says, more out of bravado than anything else. He and some other fellows got talking about this country, and one of them said, he did'nt believe any white man could do it during winter, so H. said, he would try it at any rate, but he had no idea of the distance at the time ; he took provisions for 12 days, not expecting to be more than 9 days (his provisions were simply pork, biscuits and tea), he also took a big blanket, as he slept out always in the open air (!) and altogether he started with about 80 lbs., which he carried on his back with a strap across his forehead — the regular way of carrying big weights here ; however, instead of being 12 days, he was 17 ; he luckily happened to hit upon a post of the Hudson Bay Company, and there he took in a relay of provisions. He used to start walking at daybreak and walk till 4 or 5 in the afternoon, and then of course he had to cut wood for his fire. The snow was very soft, and even with snow shoes he used to sink in nearly up to his knees at every step ! ! This all sounds fearful exaggeration, but you have only to hear and see the man, and hear how he speaks of it, and you feel he is telling you the real truth, incredible though it does sound. After waiting at the village for an hour we pushed on, and arrived at a little inn (about 3 miles from this place) at 3 o'clock. The country we came through was very pretty, a fair amount of cultivation (of sorts !) chiefly oats, very poor looking and no length, and with plenty of weeds and thistles. The ground must be fertile, as they never think of manuring it in any way. The people have not made a bit of progress for the last 100 years. They are perfectly content to remain the same as their fathers. The ground is all fenced off into little bits, which are generally sown with oats or sometimes wheat or barley, and every now and then you see some " taties " or "baccy" plant. We had a lovely moon which looked lovely on the water in the valley below. 39 The country is scattered with wooden houses all along the road, and every now and then you come across a village. Enough for " Partridge- day." Wc turned into bed about 9.30 — very good rooms and good clean beds. ^e any y rate, J days, pork, in the ied on big uckily took alk till liis fire, nearly )ut you ou feel After tie inn irough ry poor ground people erfectly ced off leat or plant, below. Friday, 2nd. — I have a fearful lot to write, which may, or may not, interest you, so you can read it or "say Moses" and skip it, just as you please. We started with a very good breakfast a 7.30. We got talking about Lords Lome and Dufferin, H. told us that Lome is very much liked here, he is wonderfully honest and open, which Lord D. was not so much ; the latter was an extremely agreeable man, and knew how and when to be agreeable, and how for to blarney you ; Lome he says is very sincere and hearty with you, and an extremely nice fellow. H. knew Lord Dufferin when he was here, and seems to know Lome personally. After a very good breakfast we started off in the traps for his diggings (no joke intended) ; his abode is wery rough, simply a peasant cottage ; the old gal to whom it belongs is an Irishwoman. After a few minutes we started off to see his works ; they have only actually begun to prepare w^orks this year, although he made a thorough inspection of it before embarking ; they have not worked at all this year at present, but hope to begin on Monday I think. There is no " mining" about it in our sense of the word. The way they work it is this — they have II miles of ditch, 4 feet deep and about 7 broad, in which there is a fall of 6 feet 7 inches per mile, at a regular grade the whole way ; the reason of its being a regular grade the whole way is in order that the stream shall not be too strong in places and wash away the bank. I should have said that the ditch starts by their having dammed the river and diverted some of the water. At the end of this 1 1 miles of ditch there are iron pipes, through which the water is conducted for, I should say, about three-quarters of a mile to the place where they know that there is gold ; these pipes are laid down the side of the hill and taken across the river, and at the end of all these pipes there is a hose (of 5 inches in diameter) fixed, which shoots the water out against the bank, this washes all the gravel and mud, in which the gold lies hid, down into a '* sluice," which is a channel made of wood about 3 feet broad and I foot deep ; at the bottom of this channel there are laths of wood fixed in moveable frames, the laths being about two cubic inches, and the space between them about the same ; the mud and gravel is carried into this, and, owing to its enormous weight, the gold sinks to the bottom through the space between these laths ; there is, as near as I can guess, about 50 feet of this channel with the laths running ivith the channel, then there is another 10 feet of laths laid across the channel about the same space apart as the other laths ; but these cross laths are bevelled away on the side io which the water flows, consequently there is a continual undercurrent and the fine mud is kept always moving thereby, and the gold sinks through it to the bottom of these laths, which I ought not to have called two cubic inches, as they are about 4 inches deep, I now remember. After this water has been playing on this bank for about two or three weeks with a force — ^which I will mention Ik -^\ f m ft ii Mi '■»"'|iFi_J 40 presently — the tap is shut and the water turned off, and they then take up these sluices one by one (as there are about 10 separate sluices in the channel), beginning by the one highest up, and then they turn on the water gradually, which washes away the mud and collects the gold in the cross sluice at the end, which is then in its turn taken up and the mud carefully washed away, leaving only the gold and a very little mud, which is then got rid of in a way which I will presently explain. I believe my account of the sluice is pretty fairly correct, but that is the only part which I did not perfectly under- stand, but I am pretty sure my account is right. The old and primitive way which they still use when " prospecting" {i.e. when they sink the shafts to see if there is gold about) is as follows : and the instrument is called a " rocker," which as it would be very hard to explain I will attempt to explain by a drawing, though I fear my limited idea of " perspective " will make it hard to understand. The gravel is shovelled into a sieve (A) which lets the small gravel and gold through, it is then caught by a piece of coarse sort of sail-cloth beneath. All this time water is being poured on to the mud in the sieve, which separates the small gravel from the coarse, and the whole machine is kept rocking by means of the handle (B)— the machine being made with rounded pieces of wood (D) like a baby's cradle. When the lower sieve, or coarse sail-cloth, is about full, the gravel is all shaken out into a round shallow pan, from which the gravel is shaken out by constantly taking up water into the basin and shaking it out, thereby shaking out the gravel very gradually at the 4^ same time that the gold sinks to the bottom ; this is of course rare delicate work, and enormous care has to be taken not to shake out any gold; when nearly all the sand is shaken out, (it is wonderful what a little they leave in the pan, at least Mr. H. did,) they dry it in the sun and the sand then gets blown away — ** et puis voila" — " that's the way we do it! " as Mr. Lynn used to say after his conjuring tricks. I told you just now I would explain how the little mud which was left in the sluice was got rid of — it is by this last method which is called "panning." I should have told you that the water which flows through the two sieves in the rocker falls down and runs out by (0), across which there are two little laths put to catch any mud escaping through the second sieve, which (the mud) is then taken up and put into the pan again. I should also tell you that before the water and gravel escape entirely from the sluice, it passes off a plate which is covered with quick- silver, and this attracts the gold and holds it and the mud flows over it without sticking, however, this latter arrangement had not yet been put on, so I can't explain it very well, but that is my idea. I am now going to put down a few statistics which I took down just so as to remember them. The diameter of the nozzle out of which the water is thrown (after passing through the pipes) is 5 inches, the water is thrown 150 feet, there being a pressure of 80 pounds to the cubic inch of water in the nozzle, and the amount of ground that it will wash away is on an average about 30 feet in 24 hours ; of course this is a very rough estimate, as it depends entirely on the hardness of the ground to be washed. The pipes which conduct the waterfall about 200 feet before the water is thrown out, are not cast iron pipes, but are ever so much lighter than our cast iron pipes, being made of very thin strips of iron of about one foot broad, bent round and round ; they cannot be as strong as the others, but are far lighter, and consequently much cheaper to bring (from New York), the price is 63 cents per foot for the pipes of 1 1 inches diameter (that is about 2s. yd.) Besides this washing process, there are three other methods of getting the gold ; one is by breaking up quartz rock which is pulverized by means of a mill at the rate of about 50 tons per day ; this dust is then passed over mercury, which holds the gold but lets the rest flow over. It is considered very good work if they get one dollar's worth of gold out of a ton ! I must say before I forget it, that one ounce of pure gold is worth 18 dollars {i.e. £^ 12s.). They have not yet erected the mill, but if the quartz gives a good "prospect" they will put one up. Another way of getting the gold is by roasting a sulphurate and then by some preparation of salt, but this we did not see done, though we found some sulphurate. The last way I will explain to-morrow (Saturday,) as they do not employ it at these Mines, and we saw it at some others. Some of the Californian Mines cost a fearful lot to start, one Mine in Bloomfield having as much as 100 miles of ditch ! ! and the cost of 20 miles of ditch alone in another was ;^90,ooo. Now I think that is all I have to tell you about mining. We came back to Mr. H's house at about 12 o'clock for dinner, and at i o'clock started off to see the end of the ditch as far as they have worked at present — which is about two miles from the river — Wiiere there is a stream which flows into the ditch. Very 4i ••If I .;■■ 'i 111 1 1' I. .i;] 1 1 lUi 1!" UU 42 luckily for us they had just made the connection with this stream the day before, so there was just enough water to "wash " for 55 minutes. We drove for about three miles and forded the river once which was just a trifle shakey, as the river bed is all rocks ! After two miles more of a road — compared to which yesterday's was perfectly smooth — we got out and walked along the side of the ditch for two miles, to the place where' the stream enters it, there we found Mr. H's brother in ordinary workman's clothes superintending some men who were working a very deep part in very heavy clay soil ; they work from 6 a.m., to 7 p.m., for one dollar per day. We drove back along the ditch in a cart part of the way, but we soon had enought of that, so walked back to the carriages and then drove back to the house, which, after having heard a little about Californian Mines, we left in order to go down and examine some of the rocks where they expected to find gold ; they broke some bits of rock off, and after looking at it pronounced it favourable looking. We then went up to the house again and soon after drove back to our inn, thoroughly delighted with our day. I forgot to say that the place where they are at present washing for gold is in the old bed of the river which — oddly enough — flowed at right angles to the present course. By way of a cheerful bedroom companion I had a bat in my room, and as it — my room — was not very large or high, I jumped into bed until he took his departure and then continued to undress ! ! Saturday, 3rd. — Awake at 5 o'clock, breakfast at 5.30, and off at 6.15 in our carriages to visit the Gilbert Mines, which lay about 4 miles out of the way to the station. We got there at 8 o'clock, and at once went up to the main shaft which is 93 feet deep. This we all went down into by means of a ladder in a narrow chimney sort of place ; they have to go 90 feet down before they find any gold, which they eventually find in a stratum of gravel about 3 feet deep, also an old river bed. Men break the gravel away and cart it into buckets, which are then hauled up and the contents emptied into trucks, which are run out about 100 yards off and shot down into some sluices, similar to those used at Humphrey's Mine. Sometimes, however, they have not enough water to let flow over these sluices, and then they have to use the rockers, which of course take much longer ; we saw the extremities of the shaft which do not reach very far, and after that we were taken up in the tub, instead of grinding up the ladder, and when we got into daylight, were'nt we in a jolly mess ! Not the least ( ? ! ) We had not time to go over any more of these mines for we had to be getting on, as we had still about 20 miles to drive and 33- hours to do it in. The amount of wood which they are obliged to use to keep up the ground above is enormous, and Mr. H. told us that the trees get squashed quite flat from the enormous pressure above ! This kind of mining is called " drifting," and is of course far more expensive than " washing." I forgot to say that the water will do with three men working at it as much as 150 men would do with pick and shovel. We took leave of Mr. H. at his mine, and drove back to the station, which we reached at 12.30, our train being due at 12.35, so we just had time to brush the mud off when 1 43 the train came up ; we reached Quebec about 3 o'clock, by which time we were a trifle hungry, having had nothing to eat since 5.30 a.m. After some food and a few O. J's we took the bus down to the Montreal boat, which left at 5 o'clock. We received dad's letter, for which much ta. Wc read till near 7 o'clock, when we went down and had some food, and after some purchases of Indian-work, we set to work on our diaries, and, hurrah ! I have finished. The Indian-work I have just spoken of, is the hairs from the head of the moose, dyed, and worked in very pretty patterns on to red or black cloth ; we have seen some of it before but not so pretty. They have a most lovely bit on board, a black table cloth with a large ring worked in patterns in the middle, and worked all round the edges — price ^^14, not by any means out of the way I think when you think what hard work it must be, and the hair is only about 4 or 5 inches long, so they have constantly to be threading and '• finishing off," which latter, I will do for to night. Sunday, 4t]l.— " Made" Montreal about 6.30 a.m., and went straight to the Windsor Hotel, where Hope had engaged rooms for us. We found our rooms were on the first floor, and luxurious in the extreme. Joe says he believes the hotel is supposed to be the best in the world. After a wash and some food, we went to the cathedral, tvhcre the service was very nicely conducted, and they have a good organ. But the sermon was one of the "curiousest" I ever heard, and the good gentleman had most powerful "orgins" which he showed off to perfection. His text was from Psalms viii. 4: "Lord, what is man, that Thou art mindful of him ? " and was evidently intended against those who say that everything was begotten out of space of its own accord, only by the working of nature. He explained to us how that Darwin traced our descent from monkeys, and that of monkeys from a sort of spongy substance, and that we got our intellect from monkeys eating nuts, &c., &c. But you want to hear the man himself saying it to appreciate the effect. The idea, of course, was a good enough one for a sermon, but such a funny way to set about proving it, and the way he expressed himself, and the way he bellowed ! ! I couldn't help thinki.ig how lucky father was not there to hear him shouting as he did ! After church, we set to work on our diaries till 3 o'clock, when, just as wc were preparing to set out for Hope's, his son (Charles) sent up his card to us. We walked with him to his house, where we sat and talked for some time, and then the son kindly showed us Gillespie's house. He was out, however, so, having returned to the hotel, wc found out the addresses of some other people to whom H. J. had letters; however, they were all out. We dined at 7 o'clock with Mr. Meritt, to whom we had been introduced at Far Rockaway; he is staying in the hotel, but leaves to-morrow. After dinner we went and sat in his room. t r ifi:; lifei Monday, 5th. — I got up at 6 o'clock to go and see a game of lacrosse, as Meritt said he was going to play, and I was anxious to see the game. The men play every morning before going to business. When I went into G.'s room to see if he was ready (Joe had cried off, as he did not see the fun IT "TIC 44 of turning out), he told me that Meritt had sent him word that it was too wet, as it had been raining in the night. So I had nothing to do but write my diary, and read over what I had written before. H. S. B. S'. ■ :i JOURNAL IX. Monday, 6th (continued). — Wc had hrcakfast at 8 o'clock, and about 9.30 M. Gabarncau — to whom G. had had a letter — called. Soon alter 1 1 o'clock, after sendinnf off our budpjet we walked down to Hope's ollice, where we were introduced to his partner (Mr, Dawson). Mr. H. himself seems a particularly nice man, and such a perfect j^^entleman; he reminds us rather of Mr. Lushington; he is 51 but does not look anythinj^' like that ajjje. He has very kindly put our names down at the Club. He is goin^,' out of Montreal to-morrow down to New York, I believe, and next year (at the beginning of the year), he is going across the Atlantic to England and France. After sitting there for about half-an-hour we went and called on Mr. Gillespie in his office, he is very like Tom, though not so enormous; funnily enough he was down on the Quay at Tadousac wlien wc stopped there on our way back, he has a summer resort there. We then went back to the hotel, stopping on our way at a very tempting looking fruit shop, we then ordered a carriage for 2.30, to drive out 8 miles to see a cousin of Aunt Charlotte's who is in a Convent ; we had left H. J. just before arriving at Hope's office, as he was going to see his father's agent ; we expected to find him at the hotel, however he never came, so after waiting till 3 o'clock we three went off as we had ordered the carriage, and did not see the force of paying for it without using it. The drive was extremely uninteresting; arrived at the convent, G. went in and saw his dear relation (whom he had never seen before), presently they both came out, and after being introduced and taking a bit of a stroll, we set out back and returned to the hotel at 6.10, where we found H. J. who had not come in till 4.30, having understood that we were going to be with Hope. At 7.30 we went to to dine with Mr. H. at the St. James' Club, we had an excellent dinner and one of the pleasantest evenings I've spent for a long time, we were 14 altogether, I sat next to a Mr. Hcnshaw, an awfully nice chap. After dinner had some billiards, and got back to the hotel after 12 o'clock, after a most enjoyable evening. In the middle of the dinner table there was an enormous bit of ice weighing about 50 lbs! which kept the room beautifully cool. Tuesday, 6tJl. — Dawson had promised to take us round and introduce us to some of our business friends, so at 11 o'clock we were down at the office and off we set; H. J. had gone to his agent's for the same purpose. We went to two or three people, and then came back to the office where we found Mr. H. just going off to N. Y. It was now i o'clock and we had only done about half our visits (we had promised H. J. to be at the hotel by 2 o'clock), however we telephoned up to the hotel, after a bit of lunch set out again and polished them all off by about 5 o'clock; having stopped some time at a ■t f »i ,! M 46 furrier's where G. invested in some furs and a •'caribou" head; wc wore rather temjitcd to buy a moose head we saw, jjut wc diti not ([uitc Uke to ^ive so much money for it; the man asked G5 dollars (-^13). After one or two more calls we returned to the hotel. I must say I was ratlu.-r astonished when I found out who it was we were to be introduceil to, and I fancy the oth(;r two were also. Two or three plac(;s we went into we were told "C3h, Mr. J(jhnston has just been here!" we aj^'reed that it would have been great fun if we hac clashed ! At 7 o'clock we went aiul dined with Mr. Lanxiue, at the Metropolitan Club. We were to have been eij^dit but Gabarncau did not turn up. Wednesday, 7t]l. — Scott (to whom wc had been introduced by Hope) turned up at 11 o'clock, as arran<;ed, to drive us out to the kennels which are about ih miles out of the town, or rather from the hotel; Charlie Hope drove up a few minutes after in his dofj; cart and off we set to the kennels. There were one or two niceish hounds, thouj,di a very uneven lot altof^ether. We then went and saw the na,t:;s, of which they at present have only four; tlierc was one nice lookin^,' animal, the others were no very great shakes, though not bad animals. Their first meet is to be on Saturday, they hunt till the cold stops them, and then get two or three weeks in spring. They have the real sport however and no beastly bagmen. Their fences arc principally posts and rails and a few walls. After the kennels wc went to Scott's house where wc were introduced to his father. We then went to the Club and had a big luncl the men were mostly the same as we had met on Monday night. I got on the subject of the Telephone with a Mr. White, and he told me that the sound of music can be transmitted perfectly through an ordinary telephone; he had heard a piano quite distinctly which was being played 9 miles away,!! he promised to let me hear it after lunch but he forgot it. He gave us a letter for a friend of his at Toronto. I forgot to tell you that we were put up for both of the Clubs, but really we were on the go so much the whole time that wc had no time to go and read the papers, of which I was very sorry as they had all the English papers, including the Field. We then went back to the hotel with Charlie Hope, as G. had arranged that we should meet last night's friends, in order to arranc^e about going down the Lachine Rapids together and seeing a " real Indian Village." They came up into our room, and after chatting awhile we started to see the Lawn Tennis Tournament, but Prevost insisted on our going and having a glass of wine at his house on our way up there. We then went up to the ground, where there were two, more or less, good ladies' single matches going on ; after these were over Joe got introduced to Mr. Giddes — the President of the Club — and he then had a game ; we watch them for a few minutes, and then went to Hope's house to fetch two Halifax friends who had just come, and then back (with H. and his friends) to the hotel for dinner. On our way to Hope's from the lawn tennis ground there was a most peculiar light over the other side of the river, it looked exactly as if a sort of yellowish-green light had been thrown into it ; I never saw anything in the least bit like it. Some people say it is caused by the smoke of the bush fires and some chemical 47 arrangement in the air ; hut nol^ody really seems to know what it is. They hut! the same lif^ht at Toronto, and everyone was in a rare Iri^'ht, and thou^dit the world was coniin;^' to an end. The hush lires here are sometimes very extensive, as much as 200 miles heint^' sometimes swept away, and the effect is felt a lonj; way off; at Toronto the smoke is cjuite as thick as a fog sometimes. There was a splendid regatta at Tt)ronto on Thursday and Friday, all the best scullers of the world taking part, we would have given anything to have seen it; Joe and I did not think it worth while spending 14 hours in the train. I have just seen in the "Toronto Globe" a most fearful account of the fires, in which it menti(jns the names of seven villages completely swept away by hre, and the loss of life is estimated from between 700 to 1,000, while 5,000 more have been rendered homeless. But to return to my narrative. Dinner over at 8.30 we set off for the theatre so see " East Lynne." It was supposed to be a very pathetic piece, but I am sorry to say it had the opposite effect on us; and one time when there was a very touching piece and no one was speaking, we all burst out laughing. I There was a cornet too which amused us very much. After this splendid (?) piece of acting, although I must say one or two bits were not bad, we returned to our hotel and then to bed. Thursday, 8th. — Joe and I started off at 10 o'clock for a gatne of lawn tennis, we had some fair games though I got horribly beaten, the ground too was very good. At 11.40 we starts' back to the hotel as we had been told that the train to go out to Lachine vas at 12.30; however, when we got about halfway back we met Prevost and the other two (G. & II. J.) who said to us "jump in we have only just time to catch the train," so in we got, and we found out that friend P. had mistaken the train. We found Lanxjue at the station waiting for us. We got to Lachine about 12.45, '^•^^ after waiting about a bit went and had some lunch, after which visited Dawe's brewery ; we started by the place where they keep the beer, above which they have 1200 tons of ice I we then went on and saw the making of it; they import a great deal of our hops. We then took the steamer across to the Indian village Kaudnawagha ! but, before the steamer went, the 3 o'clock train from Montreal came in ; by this same train came friend Brown and four or five other men. Arrived at Kaudnawagha we arranged with Big John to take us back in a canoe. Big John is a well known character, and is a good man for shooting the rapids in a canoe. We then went on into the village where we saw a lot of Indian pigs ! we looked in at a cottage where we saw some superbly ugly women making things with beads — real live Indians ! Then on to the Church, and back again the same way. On our way back we went into another cottage, where we saw the Indian manner of carrying their babies ; they put the wretched little beast on a board, wind him on to the board with long strips of cloth, only leaving his head uncovered, and then this (I don't mean the head — but the board) they sling over their back. Thank goodness I'm not an Indian baby. The next time Mr. Bugg kills chickens I'll show you how the Indian babies are carried, and I don't think i * ■nam 48 he'll kill any more poor fellow! But to return to the "banks of the St. Lawrence;" we all j:,'ot into Bi{^' John's canoe which was about 40 or 50 feet long and 2 broad, there were ah"eady an Indian s(|uaw and a s(|uawler with her, six sturdy fellows sat in the bows and paddled away at the rate of 62 to the minut(; ! old B. J. sat in the stern sttM.ring. When we got out into the middle of the stream V>. J. and his friends struck up an Indian song I They landed us s;ifely flu- oilier side, hnving taken about 20 minutes for about I.J to 2 miles. The Montreal Ixtat came in about 5.30 or rather after. There is a good strong current the wlioh; way down to Monti"eal, but the rapids themselves oid)' last lor about 5 minutes, if as much; it is certainly a. splendid sight, but I was a little disa|)poinlcd as T llioughl they would be rougher. They shut o(f stcairi while actually in the rapids, as of course the water itself tak(;s you (|uite last enougl). We got a fine id(!a of the Victoria Bridge as we came in, it is 1 •[ miles long and is built on the tubular s}stem, the architect was K'obert Stephenson. In tlu" winter they lay some lines across the river as die}' tluMcb}' sa\ the enormous toll which they have to j)ay to go over the bridge;. The ic(. in the river sometimes runs as much as 2(; fe(;t thick! We got bac:k' to Montreal at 7.5 having ]ir()mised to dine with IIop(; at 7 ()'clo( l< ; however as we had not got to dress we were there soon after 7.30. W<; had a very jolly evening, tli(;re were C. II's. two Halifax friends and another young fellow, Friday, 9th. — In the morning Joe, Ci. cS; J. w('nt out and said "adieu" to Dawson and C!harlie Ilojie and got a little " wlu-rewithal ;" we then got one or two photos: and then Joe and I went and had a game of L. T. After lun(di we got a trap and left P. 1*. Cs. on our friends, then back to the hotel to finish our packing, and who should be there but Ih'own, Ik; said tlu; other two weie coming to say good-bye to us, so of course we asked them to come u|) while w(; paclscnl. I must not leave Montreal without putting my ideas on j)a|)er; it is certainly a fine; town, there are some line streets, fine buildings and private houses: it is out-and-out better than Quebec which really is a wretched town. They have some good long streets; one house I saw numi.ered 1,530, and I think the street went on some way after that. They have- -besides the; L. T. club — a cricket and lacrosse club. But the great feature is its endless churches, of which there is one in every street. The Windsor Ib)tel too is simply jierfect, and though on a very large and grand scale everything shows good taste, and it is really splendid ; the staircase is exceedingly fine. Now (5.15 p.m.) let us take our seats in the train to Ottawa, or, as they say here, "all aboard." After we had started we found there was a drawing- room car, and in oik; corner of the car there was a "state; re)om," whicli we)ulel he)lel six pee)nle. ee)niff)rtably. The guard said we; coulel have it te) ourst;lves fe)r thr(;e el(>llars more (whereas the e)relinary seats in the elrawing room we)ulel be about twe) elejllars extra), so we took tlu; bargain, and set to and played whist ; when, in the middle of a game, I felt a knock on the M 49 shoulder, and on lonkiii[( ii|) found thai il was my Mlljcock- wliicli evidently diinl the same which 55 vvc should have taken had wc not been stopped by the (og), which gets in at 7.20. It was a rare nuisance, as you may imagine. However, there was nothing else to be done, and after one more change we reached Oswego at 8.20, where we put up at the Lake Shore house, which, however, is about three quarters of a mile from the Lake Shore. Thursday, 15th. — After breakfast we strolled down to the Lake; Oswego seems a rather large town with, as far as we saw, some fme streets and, oh ! such peaches ! ! After our stroll we came in to write, and are now just off to Niagara by the 12.35, which, however, didn't actually get off till past one ; instead of reaching Niagara at 7.10, it was past 9 I believe before we reached the hotel. We passed through a great deal of burning woods, and at one time we saw in the distance an immense long line of fire. We had to get out at the American side, as, though there is a suspension-bridge over which the train goes, it is not near the Falls themselves, as the river is too broad for a railway-bridge, but there is a very handsome suspension-bridge 1268 yards long, for carriages. Arrived at the hotel (Clifton House), wc washed ourselves a Ijit, and, after some food, strolled out to see the Falls which are lighted up by electric light ; we walked up to the Horseshoe Falls, where, having got soaked by the mist from the fall, we returned to our hotel and to bed. Friday, 16th, — Exactly two months since we left Liverpool, I shall not of course attempt to give you any general idea, as it would be — to say the least of it — utterly useless ; but I shall probably just put down things as the thoughts occur to me, so I warn you that it will be a very scratchy, and j)robably imin- teresting account. The best way will be to tell you it in the order we saw it. We took a carriage directly after breakfast, and told the driver to " show us everything." So we first went to the rapids of the whirlpool, passing on our way the old suspension-bridge, which consists of a railway-bridge above (the trains have to go at foot's pace) and a carriage bridge beneath ; there are 8000 miles of wire used in it (so the newspaper of to-day says). Soon afterwards we came to a place placarded " \\'hirl[)ool Rapids ;" here we descended from our carriage, walked through a shop where all sorts of "souvenirs" were being sold, and after paying 50 cents (/. c. two shillings) each, we walked down about 200 feet, when we came to the rapids : one raging mass of roaring water rushing along at a fearful pace, and sending up enormous waves of spray, which were caused not by the rocks underneath, as of course one imagines, but by the force of the under current struggling to the top and meeting the upper current, the water being 250 feet deep here ; for about a quarter nt a mile I should imagine you see this surging mass ; I cannot describe my feeling when I saw it, but I don't think I shall ever forget it. The breadth is, I should imagine, as far as I can now remember, rather less than a quarter of a mile. We then went on about a mile to sec the whirlpool ; here the same thing — 50 cents and down the "elevator" {i.e. " lift " ), down a steep incline of forty-two degrees. Arrived at the bottom, we walked a short way to a point from which we could get the best view of the whirlpool ; the river comes rushing down its headlong course, turns if'i n 4 5= i I r hi Mil Ij ; 'li '■ ^^•■IHB an angle which is all but a right angle, and you see the river (or, as it would perhaps be more accurate to call it, the torrent), for a long way down, one long line of almost continuous foam ; of course, the effect of this sharp angle is to cause vast whirlpools in the middle of the stream, while the current on the opposite side to which the water flows away is all a very strong back current, though in some places there is next to no current at all, and in one place, where the current is about medium, we were astonished to see some wild ducks swimming about. After this, up by the elevator, again to the carriage, which then took us to the "Table Rock," or, rather, where the Table Rock ^?rt' been, for it fell away some years ago. This brought us right back to the Horseshoe Falls, which are a quarter of a mile across and three quarters of a mile measuring all round the fall, which is 150 feet high, and the depth of volume of water pouring over is, at the thickest, 30 feet thick. Here we paid one dollar {i.e. 4J".) each for the pleasure of putting on some mackintoshes and being taken by a guide, to whom we had to pay 50 cents each, down a lot of steps and under a side shoot of the Horseshoe Fall, when we were told to look up but were pre- vented from seeing anything at all by the spray which kept driving in our faces with awful force ; of course there was a shopful of souvenirs. After this our coachman took us to the "Burning Spring" on the "Cedar Island," from which we had a very good view of the " American Rapids " and " the Three Sister Islands ; " the river is here two miles wide, and the rapids extend for about a mile above the falls. Just a little way above where the real " Rapids" begin there is an island called " Goat Island," which divides the river into two streams of rapids, one, which we did not see from Cedar Island, ends in the " American Falls" and the other, which, as I have said before, is the " American Rapids," ends in the " Horseshoe Falls ; " these are about at right angles with the direction of the stream above, which arrives at these falls by means of a long sweeping curve. When I say that they are at right angles to the stream, of course, being of a curved shape, the whole cannot be at right angles to the stream, but the greater part is. I am afraid that is very unintelligible, but I hope I'll be able to make it clear with a photo which we purchased at the " Burning Spring," where, of course, there was also a shop, and where, of course, we also had to pay fifty cents each. This Burning Spring is an ignitable gas which is given off from a spring which comes bubbling up some few feet below the surface of the earth ; the gas is collected in a cylinder with a pipe sticking out, from which the gas escapes and is continually burning ; but to show us that it is no humbug, this cylinder was removed and a piece of lighted paper held down to the surface of the water, which immediately set fire to the bubbles of gas which kept coming to the surface. This was discovered about ninety years ago by some men having a fire there, when the gas caught fire. After this we returned to the hotel, and then, as we had another hour to wait till dinner-time (it was now 1.30), we went up to the top of one of the suspension-bridge towers, and then returned to the hotel, where we invested in a most wonderful pipe for old Free, and then went and had dinner. Having done everything on the Canadian side, we went over to the American side ; the toll (there and back) across the suspension-bridge was only two and a Hi 57 , I half dollars (ioj.)! The first place we went to was Prospect Park, — fee, as usual, fifty cents. This park is between the suspension-bridge and the American Falls. We went down the elevator right at the bottom of the Falls, but, not wishing to go under the Falls, we contented ourselves with braving the spray, and conse- quently got soaked. G. and I, under a certain amount of shelter from my ' brolly,' boldly pushed on to a point from which we saw nothing more, but only got more soaked. Then up again by the lift, and then to a place which was right at the side of the Falls, in fact the water washed the wall of the parapet on which we stood ; this was about the best idea we had got so far of the volume of water flowing over. From this we went to " Goat Island," and stayed there the rest of the afternoon, visiting the following points : — First, the opposite side of the Falls to Prospect Park, from that to the Cave of the Winds, where we again went under the F'alls, but this time under something like a fall, and not a wretched little dribble like the other side. We first divested ourselves (after paying one dollar each) of all our own garments, put on some coarse serge things, cari)et- sllppers, and a " sou-wester ;" we next descended some steps, and after about fifty yards came to the falls of the Cave of the Winds ; it is a continuation of the American Falls, but separated from them by a small island. We followed our guide down some steps, with the water pelting down on our heads pretty hard ; it rather took our breath away at first, and H., not caring to have any more, retired. After a few steps down we came to some slippery rocks, where there was not much to hold on by, and of course a heavy shower of spray drenching us, though not falling from above with such force as at first, but more blown back from the water falling. It was a little bit bogey at first, and rather made one hold one's breath, but when accustomed to it, it is really nothing. After about a hundred feet of this we came out on the other side, and walked across the rocks in front of the Falls. When just in front of the Falls the sun shone out strong, and we saw, what I had never heard of before, a complete circle of a rainbow, formed in the spray. The colours were very bright, and there was a part of a second bow. We got back to where we had started, walking down the steps under the Falls ; by this time we had got quite accustomed to the pelting water, and liked it very much. From time to time, as we went along, we kept looking up at the enormous volume of water flowing over, and it gave us some very faint idea of what the volume pouring over the whole extent of the " Horseshoe" Falls must be. The volume here is twenty feet thick ! and the distance from the falling water to the rock is sixty feet, though the actual '^ shoot'' is not as much as this, as the force of the wind and the spray combined has worn away the soft rock underneath, and it consequently overhangs somewhat. This of course gave us the best idea that we had at all of the volume of water flowing over, even that gave us but an extremely poor idea of what it really must be ; in fact, it is utterly impossible, I believe, to have any idea of the real volume of water. You may be told that there are so many millions of tons, but then it is utterly and entirely impossible to imagine ox picture to yourself this enormous volume, — at least that is my feeling. After this we went to a point where we stood right alongside of the Horseshoe Falls, and watched the Falls for a long time ; in most places you cannot see above halfway down the Falls for the thickness of the spray, and in one part I f :i Iff 58 of the fall the spray sometimes dashes about fifty feet above the top of the fall itself. [Tin's is the part marked with an A /// the diaqravi.) Perhaps this diagram may possibly help you to understand the positions better. 59 I don't know if this will make it any clearer to you, but I will hope so. After this we went to the Three-Sister Islands, which are connected to the mainland by bridges from one to another. We had a splendid view of the rapids here, which are a most marvellous sight. After standing there for a long time, we returned to the hotel at 6.30. After an hour's writing had some su[)per, and soon afterwards some more writing, then to bed, as it is now past 1 1 o'clock. Learned people say that the Falls are gradually retreating, because the back- current of the water washes away the rock underneath, which is a soft kind of rock, and then the upper part falls down. I have been also told that the force of the water falling down is so oreat that it does not come to the surface till half a mile afterwards ; I don't know at all if this is tru^-, but am inclined to believe it, as the stream looks so comparatively calm on the surface near the Falls. Saturday, 17th. — I just want, before I forget it, to correct some of the previous statements as to distances. I ha\e just been measuring distances care- fully on an authentic map downstairs. Distance from Horseshoe Falls to the New Suspension Bridge Distance to second {i.e. old) Bridge from b\dls, over which train passes ......... Distance to the Whirlpool Rapids from Falls, about Breadth of the Whirlpool Rapids ...... Distance to the Whirlpool from Falls ..... Length of New Suspension Bridge, \ooofcct, and not 1268 yards. mile. 2^ miles. mile, miles. 2 1 r We had intended leaving at 9 o'clock, but on second thoughts decided to wait for the afternoon boat to Toronto, so as to get one more look at the; Falls ; accordingly, about 9.30, G., Joe, and I (H. stayed at the hotel to do his writing), took the ferry across to the other side, where we took the elevator, which landed us at Prospect Park. Our ferryman told us that on the 5th three Englishmen had swam the river just above the new suspension bridge : one of them was W. Ainslie, a New College man, who nearly got into the 'Varsity this year. He also told us that the water which flows over the Falls doesn't come to the surface till the Whirlpool Rapids, which are about 2\ mik^s. I feel certain that the water cannot come to the surface before the new suspension bridge, as, although there were a good many currents where we crossed — just above the bridge — I should think the water coming to the surface must make the surface a great deal rougher than it was there. So far from disbelieving the statement on the pre- ceding page, that the water does not come up till ^ mile afterwards, I now begin to think I must have misunderstood my informer (who was a young fellow about my own age on the coach from Glen Falls to Lake George), and that he must have said 2^, and not .^ a-mile. But before one has realised to a certain extent the volume of water that falls, it is hard to believe the half-mile state- ment, because it seems such a long way ; but now that I have realised the volume to a certain extent, it is hard to believe the half-mile statement, because it seems such a short way. I really should like to know the real truth. But to continue. After standing at the corner of Prospect Park for a short time we went on to J ' N \ I '.■\\ II fll 60 Goat Island, and struck across the wood to the Three Sister Islands. On our way we saw some of the finest trees we have yet seen : one, a hazel, we think, beings about 18 feet round, an enormous heiLjht, and as straij^ht as a line. There were several other trees, but none; so fine as this ; but all these wn lch(!d peo[)le here think of is swindling one; out of one's money, so the i)oor trees, instead of being looked after, are in such a happy jumble that they nearly all die. Joe and I went and sat on a rock, from which we had a most perfect view of the Rapids for a h^ng time. We went to one or two other points, but from none did we have such a splendid view. It was such a perfert treat to get away from all the snobs and Yankee " doers," that we could not tear ourselves away from it, and it was about 11.30, I think, before we wended our way to the edge of the Horseshoe Falls. Before I go farther just let me put down three words about that .s/Zcv/^/Zr?' sight, which I think I tv/y'^'ir^jf more than almost any part of Niagara, chiefly, I think, because we wi re alone and not bothercnl by that awful foppery which had so disgusted and sickened me of the whole thing that I could only thinic yesterday, O, dear, how glad I shall be to get out of this place ; but now my itleas were quite different, and I only thought how delightful this is. For 2 miles across it was one mass of rushing, foaming, roaring water. About 500 yards higher up-stream we were so nearly level with the water that a fall of about 10 feet, which extended in a broken line for nearly the whole 2 miles across, hid the rest of the river higher up from our eyes. We were about three quarters of a mile above the Horseshoe Falls, and the whole distance was nothing but this foaming mass, in some places more and in some less boisterous, except a piece of, I should say, about i}, acres, where there was but little water, and it ran rippling along rather than foaming. But the grandest bit by far was about 80 yards from us. where an enormous wave rose up and then rushed headlong under the mass of foam caused by the backllow of the water. The only thing we regretted was not to have had the moon on it ; but there is no moon now, though, of course, we had splendid moonlight nights at Montreal, when we couldn't appreciate them. We tried two other rocks, but from neither of them did we have such a view ; I never knew anything grow upon me like that did. When it came for, " Now is the time for disappearing," G. was nowhere to be found ; so we went on to the Horseshoe Falls, and having stood there for some time, moved on to the falls of the Cave of the Winds and the American F;i" At each of these places (as, indeed, we had been at the Horseshoe Falls) wc ^ but one or two feet from the water as it flowed over; then back to the I ' we found G., who had missed us and got back to the hotel soon after o'cloLi On our way back we stopped in the middle of the bridge and looked at ,he spray rising from the fall. There was scarcely a breath of wind, and the spray 'as going straight up ; it looked as if it went some hundreds of feet above the top of the Falls before dissolving, but it was perfectly impossible to see where spray ended and clouds began. How glad I am we waited for the afternoon train, which left about 4.45, and took us about 14 miles to Niagara Falls' Town, on Lake Ontario. Here, after waiting about one and a quarter hours, we took the boat across to Toronto, which we reached about 9.30 p.m. There was a regular heavy swell, and what with the stink of the dining saloon and the rolling of the 6i boat, I felt much more like hcluif sick than ever I diil on board the " Scythia.' However, I am happy to stale I arrived saf»; without one accident, and after rcadinj^^ T. \i. H.'s father's letters of the ist inst., and afterwards M. l\ B.'s of 4th Inst., turned in, and slept souiully. Our hotel is the " Queen's." Sunday, 18th. — After half-andiour's writlni^ went to church, back a'^aln for more writing-, then dinner at 2 o'clock, when we hail a most amusin^^ black waiter. After dinner we strolled up to Mr. Allen's [)lace. Moss I'ark (he is the gentleman to whom Mrs. Mountain Ljave us a letter). Unluckily the father was out of town, but the son received us very kindly. They have tj^ot a very fine Wapiti head, and an enormous moose ditto ; but the horns of the latter are not very large in comparison with the head, lie has also got a splendid collection of Canadian birds, which he kindly showed us ; it was very interesting, as I was thereby enabled to find out the; names of some birds we had seen (lying about. He had a most I'lioriiious wild turkey, and some very fine owls and endless kinds of ducks. He had also a very good collection of Indian garments, and different things they use of all kinds ; and some paintings also of Indian costumes. After a bit of a stroll round the town — which seems very fine, with some exceedingly fine streets and some fine buildings — we came back to the hotel, and here my diary must end//v tcDi. Toronto is a very rising town ; commerce to a great extent grain. In 1871, the population was 70,000, and this year it is 100,000; an increase of 30,000 in 10 years. It is a very rival town of Montreal. I may as well finish this off now " I guess," as we shall not do much more than have supper and go to bed. We have got a delightful old Paddy chambermaid. H. S. B. i 4 * ) clue spray ly ^-as top t>f spray I train, wn, on ok the regular of the i Iff ( :»■: JOURNAL XI. Monday, 19. — After breakfast, Joe, G., and I set out to see the people to whom Hope had sent us letters. But before doing so we went to the office of the Lake Steamer Company ; and after a little talky-talky, ended in taking four tickets to Duluth by the Sarnia Line steamer, which would leave that place at 9 p.m. the following day and reach Duluth Sunday morning. This done, we went on our visits ; and luckily found them all disengaged except one. You must not suppose by this that we finished them all straight off; far from it, for what with going into an exceedingly good bookseller's where they had every imaginable English booK — down to the " Grosvenor Gallery Notes," and going into every bookshop we passed to see if we could get vol. i. of Appleton's Guide, but without success, and trying to remember half-a-dozen addresses at once, we kept running backwards and forwards over th(i same giound about half-a-dozen times in the course of the morning. However, we at last got it all over, and returned to the hotel at 2 o'clock for luncheon ; after which we took a trap and drove through the park to the University. The latter is rather a fine building ; they had rather a good collection of birds but most infamously stuffed, and the collection of butterflies and moths was very badly kept. There are only about three hundred students ; and the course — like that of Harvard and, indeed, I fancy, all the 'Varsities this side — is four years long. We took the ferry across to the Island to see a Mr. Murray, to whom Mr. White gave us a letter. We had been informed that he was a character, and had travelled a great deal, having been three times round the world. He now seems to live a most idle and unenviable life ; apparently doing nothing but live in an exceedingly primi- tive way, and do nothing all day but loaf about in his shirt-sleeves, smoke, and drink whisky. He has, however, got some land in Ireland, and gets his rents pretty well. By the time we got back to the hotel it was about 7 o'clock ; so, having had dinner, we set off to the Grand Opera House to see " The Banker's Daughter." It was a decided improvement on Montreal , and there was a killing specimen of an American tourist, who made us roar with laughter — he took off the Continental American to the life. When we get back to the hotel, we heard of the death of the President. Poor man! fancy suffering all that time only to die at last! The actual end seems to have been very sudden, as he does not seem to have been worse than usual till half-an-hour before his death. Some of the headings of the papers were very absurd, one paper had its column headed " Dead at last " in huge letters. The next morning we saw a paragraph of two or three lines, dated Sept. 20, London, England, saying that the news had caused intense excitement and sorrow for Mrs. Garfield I At first we thoui^^ht it was all humbug ; but ^i had hter." len of lental thof The been •f the /" in dated :ment but afterwards reflected that It was possible, as we are six hours in advance of you in England. Tuesday, 20th. — We were to take the 12.15 train via Grand Trunk Railway, which would get us to Sarnia at 6.30 p.m. Accordingly, at 11.55 (having spent the morning in writing), we went down, expecting to find the 'bus ready; however, we waited till 12.10 and no 'bus appeared — when we asked the reason, were told that the 'bus was down at the station awaiting the arrival of the train, and would then come back for us, as the train waited some time. It was about 12.30 before we left the hotel, and we were not off till about 1.20 instead of 12.20! We found ourselves in the dirtiest and most uncomfortable carriage I ever was in. While Joe was seeing to the luggage, I ran about trying to ascertain if there would be a Pullman or Drawing-room car on ; I asked at least half-a-dozen men, and they all — at least those who deigned to answer me at all — gave me different answers : at last we got hold of the " boss," who was in plain clothes, and found out positively that there would be no Pullman on. At one place where we stopped there was a list of trains put down from and to different places, stating whether they were in time or late, and out of the four trains put down there was one up to time, two one hour late, and the fourth an hour and a half late : we were about an hour late ! So that was an average of one train in five up to time ! We reached Sarnia Station about 8 o'clock instead of 6.30. The station was close to the Lake, so we went and tried to find our vessel to put our things aboard, but were told that she was lying about a mile further down, and would not be up for two or three hours ! We returned to the restaurant, and had some food and a wash ; and when, having learned that the boat was a quarter of a mile down we went off in search of her, and at last found her taking in freight, and, as it seemed, only having just begun. However, we went aboard, got our berths, and then returned for our bags ; having procured which, we marched back v/ith them, half killing ourselves with stumbling over endless articles, and falling down steps which we couldn't sec, &c. &c. — notwithstanding, we arrived safe aboard at last, and having asked, for about the fiftieth time, what time we should start, got the usual answer of, " I'm sure I don't know;" however, we found out that we should not get off till some time to-morrow morning ! as we had to finish taking freight on here, then we had to go two miles down to Sarnia for more, and then come back to the station for more ! Just as I got into bed, about 1 1. 15, we moved off, I suppose, to Sarnia, but next morning — Wednesday, 21st — found us still about half-a-mile below the station, and no one knowing how soon we should get off ! About 8 o'clock we moved on, but only to stop a little below where we got on board, in order to coal, which took till past 12, and at last we moved off, and are now going about one mile an hour — if as much — in one of, if not t/ic, ugliest and most unwieldy of craft you, or rather I should say, / ever saw. We are not likely to be overfed ; the feeding at breakfast was something too beastly, coffee absolutely undrinkable, not even any eggs on board ; and at dinner, which was certainly A I 1 i .1. ! 64 tt an improvement, we asked for some beer, and were told they had only water ! So the first place we stop at we intend to get some. Nothing exciting happened during the afternoon, and we lolloped along through the mist at the usual rate of about a mile an hour. At 6 o'clock we had tea, which was no greater success than breakfast — everything beastly dirty, and with an odour that savoured of having been washed in greasy water. At 7.50 p.m. we stopped at a place the name of which sounded like "Porridge;" here, as we were to stop four hours, we went ashore and tramped about the town or village till 9 o'clock, when, having invested in nine bottles of lager beer, we returned to our noble craft, and I was soon in the arms of Morpheus. About the middle of the night I woke up to find it blowing in at our window like fury, and we were rolling about in fine style ; having tried in vain to shut our shutter, so as to keep off some of the wind, I wrapped myself up in my blanket, and was soon asleep again, and did not wake up till 6 o'clock the following morning — Thursday, 22nd. — To find that we were lying alongside of a stage taking in a somewhat mixed cargo. After our lively breakfast, Joe and I went and took a little stroll. On returning I went and had a look at our cargo, which consists of about everything you could possibly mention — from a steam-launch, about 20 or 30 feet long, to a beastly, noisy cock. Everything looks as if it had been chuckecl down and allowed to find its own place where it liked. Besides the above-mentioned things we have two or three traps of sorts ! ! ( I have since found we have twelve), a plough, a machine for cutting up turnips, about a dozen cows, six horses (who at present seem to be having a most fearful stampede), and I think I heard some pigs grunting just now. This is all I can remember at present, but I'm sure there must be endless curiosities. Of course, we have got no end of tubs, and barrels, &c. &c. Add to this a most curious collection of people, but not a single decent person. I really must go and see what those horses are about, as it is only about 9 o'clock a.m., and I've no more to say for the present. We have not yet moved off from where we stopped this morning. Well, I went down below, and, O ye gods! what a chaos met my eyes! the horses were not having a stampede exactly, as they have not even room enough to whisk their tails ; but one beast, having laid back his ears, was screaming at the top of his voice and trying to make a meal off his next-door neighbours. The horses numbered 15, the cows and calves over 20, about the same number of sheep ; the pigs I only heard, but George tells me he saw them being rolled along in a barrel^ so I guess we shall have sausages soon. Two or three turkeys also, and about six boxes of chickens, and ducks, and geese, trampling on one another most mercilessly. Besides this and what I have mentioned before there were a few bags of flour, some bits of harness, bundles of hay, a little rowing boat, a lot of boxes and trunks, cart-wheels, firestoves, iron rails, and I believe a lot of other things, but I can't remember them now. These were all hurled about in a most indiscriminate manner, so how on earth they get them off I don't know. We moved off about 10 o'clock. I forgot to say the name of this place is Kincardine, and the name of the place we stopped at last night is " Goderich," and not Porridge. Our next place of halt was Southampton, which we reached, as far as horses gh to lat the The )cr of rolled irkeys one there boat, lot of in a We Irdine, not Ifar as 65 I can now (Saturday) remember, about i o'clock. Here we .shi[)[)ed more cargo of all sorts, including a tailless cow, some few horses, and a cart or two ; but where they all got to goodness only knows. We stayed there about one and a half hours, and not 35 minutes, as the captain had told us we should. We had no more stoppages for the rest of the day, which I spent in reading and writing. We were out of sight of land the whole time as we were making for Manitouline Island, which we passed at 3 a.m. next morning. Friday, 23rd. — I was very sorry, as I have heard it is very fine. At 8 o'clock we touched at a little place called Hilton, where we took on a little more of the same sort of cargo, including a man and a woman with a very queer-looking bundle done up in a sheet. This boat must really be elastic, I think. We didn't stay here long, but set out onward on our journey through the river which joins the two lakes. It was extremely pretty, and very much like the " Thousand Islands," as little islands were sprinkled about all over the place. The passage, however, was extremely narrow, and needed some pretty fine steering : in some of the places there was only just room for the boat to get through. We saw and passed a lot of vessels being towed from one lake to the other, laden principally with iron ore from Sui^erior. We saw no end of wild duck and gulls, and some few other solitary ones, amongst which was the Loon or Great Northern diver. These lakes are pretty full of fish — salmon trout, whitefish, and pickerel ; but there are not many beavers : they like the small lakes and rivers better. After some time of this wild-island scenery we came into a much broader expanse of water ; but still the channel was extremely narrow, and marked out very indifferently by red posts. We had to take a very circuitous line in this broad expanse, which brought us to a narrower part again, more like a river. The view when we got into this broad expanse was ex- ceedingly fine. At the far side from which we entered was a long, low ridge of hills with a lovely sort of purple colouring, to which the passing clouds added a great deal. When we got well into the broad expanse, and afterwards into the narrower part, the scenery was still more lovely, but almost entirely, owing to the exquisite colouring of the trees which had well begun to put on their autumn tints. I have seen colouring on a small scale before, but never saw it in such a mass. The whole length of this ridge of hills was one mass of colour, in which bright red prevailed ; but on looking through the glasses one could see almost every shade of every colour. We could not make out what this bright red colour could be.'" I wish I could give you an idea of the colouring, but it is impossible. I can only say it surpasses anything I have yet seen. Luckily, dinner was rather late, and by the time we went to feed we had passed it all, and come to a very uninteresting part ; and almost before we had done dinner we were alongside at the English side of Sault St. Marie. The captain told us we had an hour here, so we went ashore, and strolled about the some- what uninteresting lanes and woods. On our way back we came across an exceedingly pretty bird, which we have since learnt to be a blue jay. He had * This was, as we afterwards ( the street to the other ; a lot of trams v/ith horses (or mules) h.aving tinklinj^ bells; add to this some huge hot<;ls, a, post office;, hall a doxen churches, sometimes a tftwn haP ' '' ' '■' ^ • town. The population o' and till re you hav:: an ordinary American J 23,oei(j ,v.,v... i i.. ,,w|,,,.,.. ..-,, .., ... ,., ,^-,,w.,w, and, ac(.ording tf) the guide book, there is a great d(;al oi trade; cairied f/ii, es]je:(:ially in leaf tobacco, live stock, and iron. On returning to the hotel we sei to work on our diaries. 'Idle . w.';s av times pictty, aval showed rather more signs of habitation. We went through a real long tunnel for the first time since we have been liere. It is awfully hot to-day, so was yesterday. At 3.^0, as Tiobody e'se; ap))(;ared by the train at 3.15 we set out in a carriage by eairselves — 1 say -;.2o b(;cause we ought to have; started then, but it was abf)ut 3.45 befejic we w(;re being jolted aioiig a S"m(;vv]iat rough rejad thnjugh most delighllul wtjods, priin:ipa.lly of oak, but with many (jther trees s])rinkled about ; tin; leav(;s how(:V(;r iiave not y(;t begun to turn a* all about here;. Abcjut 5 o'clock we stopped to water the horses, and g;ht nif(ht , and we eot to tlx; mouth oT the < avciii in ahout five minutes. Tlie day, as I have said, had hcen very hot, and the m';dit was close. Just before ent'iinj.^ tliere was a curious phenomenon —)ou eouhi Hterally ha\< ouehanil in liot air, and the otJKi in thi- (old. 'I h( re was a strong breeze blowin;:^ out ol the cave. We went downhill some few yards, and were- vf-iy soon art nail)' in the ( ave. The- bats were flyin;( about in every (hrection — there were hundreds clin»^in{^ to the rot k. 'Idic)' llo( !•; here, esj)eciall)' in winter, when they haii;^ to tli(; sides of the roof of the cave till s|)rin}^', at which time ihc) will bej^(in llyin<^ about, but at m';;ht tinx; only. After about kjo yards, w(; went thrrjuj^di an iron j^ratin^^^ K-'te, and soon ;dler- wards were free of the bats. It struc].: us a little chilly at first on entcriii;^' the cave, but we soon ;^ot u;,ed to it, and tlie tempei'at nre was d(h;dillul, beinj^ 54", from wlii(.h it does not vary in tlie jc-i ,t from one year's end to the other. The air is beautifully pure;, ;ind it luu ,t be bracing, as, though we- walked io| miles, the next day we w(;r'- not the h-.-ist bit tired, in spite of 0111 b;id tiaininj;. ^'oUK; years a^^o some . Alter about a mile we turned off the main cave and went into what is (ailed " the Gothic aveiiiK:," oi/ a( < (uint : 7« paper down ; such a sij^'lit it was ! the rock,^ worn in most inarvclUjus sliapos. The coihu}^ too, in sonic plai:cs which wo walkf;(| alonj^, was most curiously work(;(l, whcr(t th(; water had eaten away the solt rock, and Ic:(t the harder parts, while in other j)l;ic.es it was worn ()uite smooth, init those snobs will persist in hurnin^ their iianu^s everywhere, as everyone can"i(;s a lantern. In one j)lace, the rooCwas vvoin away just like " pliiloso|)lier's hr.iins" by the water tri( klin;' down, eatinjj; away the soft rock, and leavin<^ the hard, whih; in anotlic]- pkicc the s;inie |)rocess h;id left it pointed like ne(;dles. (Just had a sjjidcr all over my (;ice and up my arm !) .Stalactites are said to lake five years to mak-e ;i piece ;ls thin as a, wafer. I low man)' years did it take to form these monsters ? Thc'y are never formed in sandstone but only in lime- stone, as tlu; latt(;r is not pf)rous, whereas the former is. Tin,' water on its way through the limestone, forms bicarbonate of lime, and the stalactites and slala^Miiites are translucent as lont^ as they are still forminf^, as a '(n-at many of these are, but when finished lormin^f, the action cA the air forms oxide of iron, and nirdscs (lu:m dull. Sometimes lh(.'reisa layer of sandstone under th(! limestone, ;md the water ( omes tlnouf^di v(,'ry f^^radually, and inst(;ad of niething, and "jigger me!" if our Mill was not greening us by v{;ntrilo(|uizing. Afte;r this we set out (Jii our homeward walk, and reached the; hotel soon after lo p.m. These caves measure 125 miles, when all the branches, and the main caves are taken into account, and 70 (jwn we at : the rfcct Our cvcl, n he truly ule a ;rfect then II he h'ltle klinf^ oiccs swer was \v;ird '25 and were only discovered in 1812 by a wounded bear running in there. The lowest part is aboiil 30CJ icct below tlu; earth. Our iii.in was extremely interest iii}^', as he knew a thiu}- or two about ji^eoKjgy. Tuesday, 4th. — At 10 o'cUx-k we set off with I'iill and (h^f for the lonf< route, when we walked nine- nn'les into the hcnrt of the earth ; I don't mean nine miles as the crow lli(;s, but countinj^; all tin; turns and bcmls which ai'(.' somewhat numerous. l"or about a mih. we followc(| the m.iiu ( avc and then turn(!(l off throu<{h " ]''at Man's Mist ry," wlii( h well deserves the name.', as the water lias worn away the rock (j^rcy limestone) and made a seipentdike chaniKil ior some hundred yards in len^^h up to .me's middle, and there; is only just room to ])ass. After enierj^inj^ from there it is "short and stout's" turn to lauj_jh ;is we earn(; to "Till Man's Misery," which, as its name imj)lies, is very low; and even "little 1" had t<; bend ahnost double; this brou<^'lit us to "(Jreat K'eliel," soon alter which we r/.imv. to a j)la((: only half a mile from the cavct's mouth, tliou;^h w(! h;id been two miles to i^'A to it; th<; name of the place was the " Corksci'ew," of which anon; alt(;r j^oinj^ across the "Sandy Desert," we cam(; to the " Kiver Styx" and "Lake; r.etli(:," whic.h at present are only little ponds, but after very heavy rains a river comers rusliin;^ down here;, which aj^Mces s< inehow with a river outside called the Green River; in thosf; waters we saw a few eia)(ish and other lisli, the; latter were; only abf)Ut an inch Ion;;, but tlie}' do run as bijf as six inches. Sof)n after r^(;the wc; <:ame to " Ivho Lake," whi( h is a j)iece of water half a mile in len<^fth, averaf^dn^^^ 50 feet broad and from souunvhcrc aljout 5'^ feet hi^h, to a i)art so low that we liarl to b(;iid rijdit down while jiassin^ in tlu; boat. Wlien we had ^one a few yards, Wilhani <^^lve tliiee lon^', se|)arate, clear not(;s, the eff(;ct was soinethiii}^ tof) exejuisite;, soundin;^^ exactly like; a most beautiful or^^an ; he than san^ a few lines of a melody, which soundt:d very j)relty, bat did not f^nve the harme^ny so much as the three sinj^de; not(;s hael ^dven ; you could h(;ar too with ^a'eat accuracy whenever he made the slii^^htest false note; there was one part, wliere the cave; was me-dium hi^h, that it se)iinde;d quite its best, it was a e:urie)us sensation of ^didinj^ alon^^ without any ne;ise whatever. Afte^r abe)ut tweaity minute;s on th(;wate;r (theai^di it se;e;me(l abe)ut five) we; elisembarke;d and walked nn thioujdi a very ion;,,' j^allery witlunit '.myih'w]'^ pnrticu/ay/y strikin^^, allhouj^di some of the holes we>rn away by water or e>the-rvvisc; we;re; most e'xtrae)rdinary ; there; we;re diffe;icnt names ^dven to diffe;re;nt parts e)f the; j^'alleiry, with more; or le;ss appre)priate;ne;ss ; the re);iel twisteel aiiei turned .abe,iit wonderfully, till at 1 1st we e ame: to a |)lae:e; where we had t') crawl uii thrf)u^h rocks by me;ans o' ladde;rs ; this brou<^ht us to ane)iiier <^^al!e;ry where theire- were; hu^^c himjjs of stalactite;s anel stalai^nnites, vvhieii \vlie;n lighted up lo(d<(;d e;xae:tly like; j^a'ape;s. IIe;re; we; sto|)ped and liael lunch : eaie very curiejus tiling I have for^e)tte;n to mention, and that 1 ;, wluire the f)xiele; of ire)n had lorme'd most wondeafal sha))es on the roe ks — -in eme jjlace the:re was a me^st pe;rfe;e:t likeaie-ss to a.n ante;at(;r, while hi anothe;r twe) j^iants were re;pre;sente;d threjwin^ a baby fre>m e)ne; to the; either, this was ne>t so good. It was 1.20 when we had done lunch, and had set out on our way 4 k I s ■. • n ■i 1 1. .80 again, the most wonderful part was yet to come ; after scrambling:,' along rocks for some time, we came to a broad gallery, the ceiling and sides of whicli were adorned with most sj)lendid patterns of gypsum, the whole roof and sides were covered with this most exquisite work f(jrming all sorts of shapes and sizes, we sooji after came to a place where the work was about as fine as about three pins jnit togeth(;r. \Vc manag(;d to get twcj or three sp(;cimens, two of whicii are vc;ry good. Tliis lovely work lasted for rdjout a mile when we came to tlie " Ivoeky Mountains," wliich are well named, as there are an enormous chaos of rocks which one has to scramble over till you come to the end of the cave, which is extremt'ly iine. It is one mass of stalactites and stalagmites but none of these are particularly curious in shape, it is more their enormous (piantity, as the whole roof and sides are one mass of them. From one side we looked down about 100 feet into the " Maelstrom," one of those curious holes formed, I su])pose, by some eddy. After this we st >ed back by the same way w(; had come till we came to the " Corkscrew," and then, instead of going through " Fat Man's Misery," we went back by the "Corkscrew" which was only discovered some few years ago by our William. Before entering into it, we saw a most peculiar offshoot of the cave called the " Jiutcher's Shop," because the water has worn the ceiling away so a-' to look like hanging meat (?) it is most curious ; but to continue our tortuous way through the " Corkscrew," it is a most marvellous bit indeed ! we had to scramble over rocks through a very narrow channel, so narrow that in one place we regularly had to wriggle through ; in three places where the rocks were too big and too steep to climb over, ladders had been placed to complete the connection. I liave no idea how far the "Corkscrew" extends, but as far as I can now remember, I should say about (juarter mile. After a most intricate scramble, we found ourselves about half mile from the mouth of the cave, which was a good many feet higher than the end of the "Corkscrew" which wc had entered. V'-^; got back to the hotel, having walked i6J^ miles underneath the eartn. They will not allow anyone to survey it, le^'*" it shcjuld b( fcjund that it is under somebody else's ground other than that of the man's on whose the entrance is. After dinner we sat out for some time, and, before turning in, G. and I wrote a bit. Wednesday, 5th.--G., Joe and I had settled to walk to Cave City, and accordingly left the lujtel at 7.40, leaving H. to follow in the stage coach. The morning was perfect, not a cloud in the sky, and just a nice breeze; our road lay, all but about tiie last mile or two, through lovely oak ftjrests they had taken some little trouble to thin out a bit, so there were one or two pieces of fine timber; besides oak there was very little else except sasafras, and every here and there a walnut or two; during the latter part of the way, however, there were some other trees, amongst them long tliorned acacias. After we had gone 3J miles, we stopped to have a look at some Indian arrow heads and other things which a man had for sale, as well as a large collection of gypsum and other geological specimens. It was a curious way he had of selling, we gave him a dollar, and for that he allowed us to take away almost 8i and )ach, our they two ifras, way, cias. rrow :tion dof est as much as ever we wished. If the arrow heads are real, they are (hrl clieap, and I don't think it would pay them to make them, as the amount of trouble would not allow him to sell thein wholesale like thai. We saw \V) end of buzzards swoopinj^^ about, and a lot of smaHer birds, one of which was a wood- pecker with a beautiful red head. Tliere were no end of diffenMit kinds of oaks, and sfjme of the l(;aves were enormous. I picked a lot of l(;aves in order, if j^xjssible, to find out their names, one of these, which I picked off a c|uite small sa])lin^, measurt'd ij^ inches by 9 inches across, wliilst another from the same tree was 4 j inches by 3 across ; frorn another sapling I picked . a peculiar stjuare-headed leaf io|- inches long by 9^ across; on the larger trees the leaves do not appear to run so cnonnous. William had told us there were a lot of hickf)ry about here, but we didn't see any, except :i few round the hotel. We got to Cave City about 1 1.40, and had just half an hour before the train started to get our things together, feed and — I was going to say — wash, but there was no time for that, so we had to content ourselves with the other two, even that was a bit of a scramble. We ]-)resented a goodly sight when the train came up, carrying our fossils, leaves and thorns all loose as wc had no time to put them together, our boots in our hands, and only with slipi:)ers on ; however there was no one much to see us as the car was full of country folk. There was a delightful " pate" of nigs, a father and four little brats on a seat intended for two perscjns, those little black brats are such jolly looking little imps with their curly heads and solemn bright-eyed faces. We had to change at Cincinnati junction, about two hours alter leaving Cave City, and of course got in with the inevitable "Cherubim and Seraphim " baby. We travelled at a good round pace through cultivated country and got to Cincinnati somewhere between 8.30 and 9.30. Mere we went to the Grand Hotel, and then turned in. Now that I come to think of it we must have got in not later than 8.30, as we had supper and then a stroll before turning in. We received some letters, but I forget their date. I must tell you that since the middle of the last page I am writing on my knees, which, together with the rest of my legs, landed me aboard my old friend the " Scythia " yesterday at 7.50, so you must excuse me if I am somewhat doubtful occasionally. Thursday, 6tll.— After breakfast we set out to deliver a letter from Pardee to the firm of Kellog & Walsh, Whiskey Distillers. Wc found the former in, he received us most kindly and told us what to do and see, and also gave us a letter tcj the largest distilleries in the town. vSo, after seeing a very handsome fountain brought from Munich, we went down to the distillery, about i.^ miles from the hotel; as bad 'nek would have it, our friend had gone home to lunch and wouldn't be back for an hour, so we returned to the hotel, lunched, and went back again ; still he was not there, so some man who knew nothing about it, took us over it, and we learnt little or nothing. All that I could make out was that the meal which is made apparently out of almost any grain, is mixed with boiling water, and then stirred about in a huge copper by machinery ; it is then allowed to stand in 8a order to ferment, then yeast is added, it is boiled, and the meal separated from the liciuid. The man was very f^ood naturcd, but knew absolutely nolhifif^. After that, w(; went to the T*^xpr)sition which is much larger than that of Chicaf^o, but in some thinf^js didn't seem so good. There was an excellent collection of stones of the country, and some from other lands, amongst which was some flint from the White; Cliffs of Dover. I never knew before that flint and amethyst belonged to the same genus, viz : (juartz, of which there are almost numberless different sj)ecies. There was a model of a nugget of gold found in Australia, worth 41,370,000 dollars or ^8,274,000, a nice little haul!* There was also an extremely interesting collection of marbles of different kinds, amongst which was some beautiful white gypsum and some pink. The collection was very good, as it had specimens from all parts of the world. There were also a lot of Antedeluvian animals, amongst which was a specimen of a mammoth, and my word ! what tusks !! By the bye. Thunder Bay, on Lake Superior, is very rich in precious stones, especially amethysts. I should liked to have spent a long time in the geological department, but we hadn't time, so we passed through the glol)e department on to the birds, of which, however, there was a poor collection, though well stuffed. On our way we passed a case of Indian arrow heads, &c., exactly like our own. G. and n. then went to the pictures, but as we didn't see much fun in looking at pictures by gaslight, Joe and I roamed about in other departments, amongst which, one was that of the flowers ; the Americans, so far as we saw, certainly have no flowers that can compare with ours, but their palms are very fine. There where no ferns as good as ours at H. L., and as to the geraniums I We had awful fun with a man who was exhibiting a patent stirrup k.'ather with a spring in the middle of it I Imagine the result. We asked him very politely what was its particular merit, upon which he was very rude, so we had some fun out of him at his expense, and he got awfully shirty when I asked him if they had good hunting about there ! and if the saddle that he showed was the regular American saddle. We got back about 6.30, and after supper went to see Joe Jefferson acting Bob Acres in " The Rivals." We had taken a box right on the stage for 5 dollars {£1.) The whole company was excellent, and as to Jefferson he was wonderfully good, his changes of expression being especially clever, I have not enjoyed a theatre so much for a long time. The building itself was very poor, but the house was crammed. Friday, 7th. — After breakfast we went to see Mr. Kellog, who had promised to show us over a brewery. However, he said it would be better if we went in the afternoon, so we took the tramway and drove out of the city to Mount Auburn. The city itself lies in a hollow, with hills all round, as far as I remember, and they have elevators which carry the cars up to the top of the hill; they then go on for about another ij or 2 miles. These elevators (or inclined plane, as they call them here,) go up at an angle of •A model of the same nugget mry be seen at the British Museum, »3 (ilxnit .|2 ; llu; horses simply draw tlic car oil, and lh(;n up it j^oes, and tlicy ^ct off at the top, and j^'o on aj^'ain without hcinf^ unharnessed or anythinj^. We went about as far as one Hue of cars went, and then walked a httlc way, and look another hm , which hmded us at the Zoo. I can hardly give any opinion of it, as we saw so little. There were scjme splendid gold and silver pheasants; but tlui lions, Sec, Sec, were wretchedly i)oor. I don't know what was the matter with us that morning, but we were all very inatl, and we must have astonished the natives, I guess ! We got back to the town soon after i o'clock, and went straight to Mr. Kellog, who gave us a most excellent dinner at his club. About 3.3(; we set out for the brewery, which was most intei'esting, and of which 1 will make a memo. The process of malt making is as follows:— The oats are spread out on a floor, and kept mcjist till they swell and sprout ; they are then taken into a hot ro(jm, where they are dried, and kept till wanted. The malt is then put into a boiler, and bfjiled together with hops, the amounts used being at the rates of 2^ bushels of malt and 2 lbs. of hops to a barrel. It then passes to a mash tub, where it is siinply stirred about, I fancy, then boiled again and poured mU) a vat, where it cools gradually; after which it is run over pipes, in which there is iced wat(;r, into barrels below, where the yeast is added, and fermentation takes place; when it is put into barrels, and put down amongst ice, to be kept as cold as possible, and sold about five months afterwards. They make from 900 to I ,oo(j barrels j^er day. Tlic great town f(jr beer is Milwaukie, and excellent (Lager) be(;r it is too. After the l)rewery, we were taken to tlie Cuvier Club, where they have a very fine ccjI lection of birds and fishes, and f(^r the most part well stuffed. We had only time to run through this in a great hurry, as we had to get back to the hotel and pack for the 8.30 train to N. Y. Cincinnati has a population of 255,000, of which more than one-third arc Cierinans. It is a nice town, antl, lor a wonder, has fairly resj^ectable pavement. Unlike most of these towns, it has not s[)rung up very suddenly — f(jr an American town that is to say, — and though a prospen^us town, is not increasing at such a prcnligious pace as most of them. There are some very nice houses, and fine streets all through, though no one is far abut a cou])Ie of hours, the scenery wns extrc'mely j^nand, and the twistinj^ and curvinj^ of the railway marvellous. At nbout 10,^0 we passed Jcjhnslown, a f^reat iron fcnmdry place. After that, to tlu; best of my r(;coll(;ction, we passed tlirouj^h some fine cultured land, and then, for a time, it was v(;ry wild aj^ain. We were j^radually risinj^ Itn' a lon^' time, havin;^ taken u|) a secf^nd enj^ine at Johnstown. At times the incline was wonderfully stcej) ; wlum we f^ot to the summit of the pass, w(; unhocjked our other eni^nne without sto|)pin^', wc- then j)assed some jnx'tty level bits for a very short way, if 1 r(;member ri;.,'htly, ;ind then came to the descent; we went windin/^ away round to the lelt deaver Street. Just as I came; out of th(; Cunard Office, who should I m(;et but young Cunard, cousin of Sir 13., wliom I had not seen since he left liton. On leaving Jackson's we went to Delmonico's, where we JKid some pn^per oysters, nr>t like those awful things we had tasted at Chicago (which by the way is pronounced " .Shcorgo" over Iiere.) Delrnonico has four liouses in the city, rdl better one than the other. After luncli we t(;ok the elevated railroad back " up town," and as g0f)d luck would have it, we took a wrong turning which leads past ''. fire engine station. As w(; had lutard a great deal about them, but n(;ver seen one, we stopp(;d and had a look in, and one of the men very good-naturedly showed us how it acts. The horses are standin;; alongsifle oi' the engine, and when there is a fire, notice is given by means (jf electric wires which run from the stations to various Inmp ])osts in the city. A j-)erson wishing to give notice of a fire goes to a man at whose house the key (;f the box containing the alarm signal is kept ; he then pulls some handle which is attaclu^d to*tlie electric wires. This strikes the alarm b(;ll at the station, and at the same time undoes the hook of the horses' head strai)S ; at this the dear nags go straight to tlieir jjlaces. The harness is all suspended on hooks ; the collar has a hinge at ih<; top, and when the horses an; in their places the collar is let down upon them, ruid the; clasp at tlie bottom is shut. Tliey have always their bridles on, so it only remains to fasten the reins by means of one single I' 2 8G clasp (similar to lli.it which fastens a watch to its chain), fasten some other piece of hai'ness hy means of a similar clasj) ; IIkj driver tlu^n ^ets up and pulls a strin;,', which lets rdl the rest of the harness down on the hors(;s, and away ihey jjo, and in 2.^ seconds from the time the rdarm hell is struck they are off; at least that is what the man told us, hut I think his imaj^n'natif)n worked a little too (|uick. It is undouhtedly marveihnis, the j)a.ce at \vhi( h th(;y c;in ly surprised. I had not n;,al!y seen the l)(;st part hefore, and it is undf)uhtedly a fine street, but shockini; badly paved. We returned to the hot(;l to dress, as we were to dine with JCrnest at 7.30 at Delmonico's. When we came f)ut of the hotel w(; saw a very strcjuf^ bj^ht, which turned out to be a hre in Tweniy-fourth Str(;et. A traincar station had cau^^dit hre, and was blazing m(;rrily ; some part of a storehouse cauj.;ht fire, and a hjt of j^^oods lost. The followin;^ day, when we passed at 6.30 ]).m., it was still burninpj, thouj^h then) was no dan<^er, as it w;is only refuse and debris. W(; had a very pleasant r;v(Miin;^' ind(;(;d ; rdl the brothers were there;, besides a ]\Ir. Gcorj^e Work, Mrs. Kenc's brother, and some man in L's. office, a Frenchman. Tuesday, 11th. — At 10 o'clock wc went to vSarony, and were taken in a grou[) as well as sej)arately. I expected to be jnit in all sorts of attitudes ; however they were very f^'ood, and didn't bother us at all. After this we went and invested in some literature (or on board shiji, which done, we returned to the hotel, and then went off to the station, where we had af^reed to meet Maurice, and ^o with him to the races at Jerome Park. They were an improvement on Saratoga, but the riding,' was shockinj^ ; bits of boys are shoved on to the horses' backs, and there they remain, more by good luck than ^(K)d management, with no more idea of riding than a monkey. In one rac(; some of them began to whip directly they started ; one man at the start (which usually (jccupies about 10 minutes), gave his animal a gentle (?) reminder just to make sure it was awake. It was a most absurd sight, the wretched horse was standing perfectly still when the monkey on his back gave him an awful warmer for (ai)parently) no eartlily reason but for something to do. 'I'he last race was a steei)lechase ; the jum]")S were, if possible, smaller tluin tlujse of Saratoga, notwitlistanding which two hcjrses came to grief at tlie first fence, which was a " fooly " hurdle. We got back to the hotel at 6.30, and were to dine with the La Mf)ntagues at 7 o'clock. We had a very pleasant evening then;, alter which I took an affectionate far(;well of all our most kind friends, and return(;d to the hotel at 12 o'clock about ; l)ut I had all my packing to df), as wc; had not had a minute in which I conld have done it before. However Joe very kindly helped me, and so it did not take very long. . «7 Wednesday, 12th.— Wc were astir l)y oMods, ;in.l Ich tli( li-.tcl ;it 7.V, rc.uliiii;^^ the Ciiiianl wharf at 7.5'). Wc lirsl went and put ni) hu;^;a,';(; in my cabin, which is No. 12, | on thi; saloon deck, just hchind tin; saloon, and which I have all to myself. It is not Mich a j^'ood cabin as those forward ol the enj^jines on the main deck-, as there is more noise fnnn the ;urew. Ilowev'er, I am ".all rii.Hit up to now," and it is bett(;r than havin;^ sonu; beast in my cabin. Not findin;^' our chairs on board, we went on to the wharf for tlu;m, and who should wcj see, amon^ a lot (.f i)(;opI(; round the 5th Avenue Hotel 'bus, but Sam liircham! I was, as you may ima!.,'inc', d(;li,'_,dited to sec him ; joe and I simultaneously exclaimed, *' Well, this is jolly." We then left him to j^'o after our (diairs. (N.B. — Ife has just |)assed throuLjh the saloon, and be^^'s to be remembered very kind!)' to you all. On a Yankee's askin;,' him what of tlu; nijht, he replied, "D d dark, and stinks o' cheese," (vide Jorrorks) miu h to the other's astonishment,) but to continue. We returned on board with our cliairs, and (). and joe remained with me till ordered off, and jnmctually at (j o'clock we " iiKjved on." I watclujd them (I don't know what became of II.) till we were fairly off, and saw them leave the wharf. S. 15. then introduced me to Mr. Ivirle, with whom he has been travelling'. It was a bit misly at first, but lliat soon cleared off, and we had a ^food view of the; harbour, which is certainly very fine;. We (lro)i|)(;(l our jjilot about 11.30 at Sandy Hook, and I sent Joe a line to t(;ll him o( my ^ood luck in ru}' cabin. Wc passed the "Bothnia" about K; o'clf)ck. After dro|)|>in<4 f)nr pilot we lay to for a f(;w nu"nut(.'S to j)ul something' ri;^d)t,and then went on. Wc; w(;re very soon amonj^' the while horses, and had a litth; motion. We have 170 passen^^ers, of whom some of the men secnn v(;ry nice. We have not many Yankees. Mr. Monier Williams, the son of the professor, is on board. I am on the captain's rij^dit, with a most clinrni'nii* old I'addy next me, and anoth(;r very nic(j I'addy next to him, with whom lu; has been travelling'. Mr. John Slurj^iss, son of the man who was at Walton, is also on bo.ird with his two dauj^diters. He is an extremely nice man, and his dau^^hters seem very lad}lik(;, thouj^di I have not yet the pleasuic of their ac(|uaint;ince. S. I). introduc;ed me to Mr. S. The old captain is a bit heavy, but extremely agreeable when wound up. Thursday, 13th.--A dullish mornin<,s with but little motion. Played shovel boar(l with Mr. S., 1'.., and olln.'rs. At noon the lof^' rej^n'stered 301 miles frorn .Sandy Hook. P.M. sjjcnt in reading' and writin}^'. During' breakfast Mr. Alderman Knif^ht (FJm Side, Hampton-on-Thames,) sent his card to the cai)tain, as he is very ill. Soon after 8 o'clock I went rij^ht forward, where- the 2nd officer (by name McMrdion) was on watch. He reco<^Miiz(;d me at once, thouf^di I had not sp(jk(;n to him on my way out. He st;ems a very nice; fellow, and a |)erfect ;^'entleman. The ])oor fellow has had an iMihap|))- i)osiiion in life. His father died when he was youn;^', and his ^niardian, wfio was the son of the first wift.-, contrived to jjcrsuade him tf) enter tin; T^-ench navy, and by so doin^' he forfeited the money left him by his father ; he didn't know it at the time, but his guardian did. 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