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ILLliSTRATIVE OF The Laws, the Manners of the People, and the Peculiarities of the Country and Climate. EZHIBITINO ALSO THE COMMKRCIAL IMPORTANCE OF NOVA-SCOTIA, NEW BRUNSWICK, ^ CAPE-BRETON; AND Their increasing Ability, in Conjunction with Canada, to fumisli tiie necessary Supplies of Lumber and Provisions to pi.r WEST-ISDIA ISLANDS. BY HUGH GRAY. LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, AND ORMt, PATERNOBTER-ROW. ISCK). ;.A i- ■ I 1 » » PREFACE. The Author of these letters, from the na- ture of his pursuits in Canada, was led to direct his attention, in a particular man- to the laws and the commerce of the ner. country. In the investigation of its laws, ancient and modern, he became acquainted with the nature of the government ; and in the views he took of its commerce, — the productions of the country, its commercial regulatio.is, and political connexions in their different bearings, presented them- selves to his consideration. Many import- ant facts, and valuable commercial docu- ments and calculations, relative to these interesting countries, were gradually col- lected and arranged. During his residence in Canada, and while travelling through it, the manners « ' t PREFACE. and customs of the different classes of so- ciety did not pass unnoticed ; and the na- tural beauties of the country, which are every where conspicuous, were not regarded with indifference. In Canada, nature presents itself in grand and imposing forms. To see, to feel, and to admire, necessarily follow each other. The peculiarities of the country, and of the climate, are striking; and the phenomena incident to the Canadian win- ter are extremely curious. These were in- vestigated with all the attention they seemed to deserve. n On his return to England, he found that the state of our political relations with the United States of America, and the northern powers of Europe, was still such as to render all communication with them extremely precarious ; any country, there- fore, which could give us the articles we had been in the habit of receiving from them, became doubly interesting. Such is Canada, and such are our other North American colonies. To point out the va- ^fc-T*^- CONTENTS. )f so- e na- il are irdcd If in c, to each in try, d the I win- jre in- they found with the such tliem there- ;s we from [Such orth va- Pagc LETTER XV. Productions and exports of Canada to Great Britain and elsewhere considered — wheat— flour— a scow described — biscuit — pease — barley— oats and In- dian corn — hops — hemp — tythes to the clergy- lumber trade — pine — oak — maple — elm— ash- cedar, &c.— staves — rafts of wood — ships annu- ally built in Canada— pot and pearl ashes — fish- eries of the St. Lawrence — th» fur trade — iron forges of Canada — manufactures of soap and can- dles, leather, hats, and snu^ — maple sugar — infe- rior district of Gasp6 — its trade and population — character of the merchants of Canada - 197 LETTER XVI. The supplies required by our West India colonies— to what extent furnished by our North American colonies — policy of the Americans in regard to their fisheries — average importation of provisions and lumber into the West India islands for three years, ending 1806— North American colonies claim the exclusive right of supplying- 'he West India islands— their reasoning in sup^ of such claim - - - - - 231 LETTER XVII. The Canadian winter — commences in November, when snow begins to fall — a snow storm — the country deserted by the winged creation — quadru- peds disappear — winter dress — the cariole, the winter carriage used by all descriptions of people , —the navigation of the St. I^awrence closes — win- i CONTENTS. ter customs and amusements — people not so liable to suffer from colJ in Canada as in Kngland — ac- counted for — winter air extremely dry — its effects resemble those of the ^'iroc win ! — greatest degree of cold, and medium temperature, of December and January — winter roads—how formed — a petit — the St. Lawrence freezing over, opposite to Quebec — the winter method of passing the St. Lawrence in canoes • - , ... «, Page 243 LETTER XVIII. "Winter travelling — in carioles — on snow shoes — the mHitary taught to walk on snow shoes— winter travelling very expeditious — the Canadian horse— a winter tour through Canada — summer and win- ter scenery contrasted — river du Loup — Maski- nongc' — Berthier — occupations of the natives dur- ing winter — winter fishinf^ — pe/ife mortic — horses eat fish — re-animation of the fish after being out ofthe water forseveral days — arrive at Montreal — pic nic parties — hospitable reception of strangers in Canada — journey from Montreal into the United States, by way of Lake Champlain, over the ice — American sleighs — Laprairit — thence to Lake Champlain through the woods — a military pass — an American />iVi'/6— their method of clear- ing a piece of ground — extent of Lake Cham- plain — travelling on the lake very dangerous- horses and 5leigh often fall through the ice — ^liorses saved— curious method of doing so — weak places in the ice— cause thereof — cracks and openings in the ice — danger in passing them 260 f r Pige 243 CONTENTS. *•' 260 LETTER I. INTRODUCTORY— at sea LETTER n. Make Cape Breton — islands of ice — their origin and magnitude — Banks of Newfoundland — gulf stream -—cause of the hazy weather generally found on the Banks of Newfoundland — Bankers -S h LETTER IIL Gulf of St. Lawrence — Cape Breton — a short ac- count of it— Magdalene islands — Island oi AtitU coiti — Mouth of the St. Lawrence — country on each side of the river — mountains — principles for ascertaining their height — Labrador shore — Seven Islands — King's posts — a battle between a whale^ a thresher, and a sword £sh LETTER IV. Discovery of Canada, by Jaques Cartier — ^burning woods — visited by Indians — Islands of Bique, Ka- mouraska, &c.— ^e Traverse — Island of Orleans Page 1 • 18 CONTENTS. Page —Bason of Quebec, and surrounding scenery- arrive at Quebec • • - - 31 •• LETTER V. • The river St. Lawrence a fine approach to America — why — observations on theoriginal colonization of Canada— intrusted by the French king to private individuals — original discovery of Quebec — taken by the English in 1629, restored 1632 LETTER VL Samuel de Champlain founder of Quebec — advan- tages of its situation — Cape Diamond — Site of Quebec — Upper and Lower Town described — be- sieged by the Americans in 1775 — death of Mont- gomery — present population of Quebec — objects of curiosity — arsenals — nunneries — Roman catho- lic and protestant clergy — how supported — tythes — fortifications of Quebec — Plains of Abraham- death of "Wolfe — views of the surrounding coun- try — Cape Diamond — why so named 41 47 LETl^ER Vn. River St. Lawrence — extent of the ship navigation — its communication with the interior — situation of Quebec renders it the key of the St. Law- rence • • «• - ..• - 69 LEITER Vin. The policy of our government iii the afFairs and management of Canada^ — how far advisable in giving Canada a British constitution — Canadian legislators — their want of education and political -i£U c CONTENTS. Page 31 41 Page knowledge-division of Canada into two pro- vinces — very impolitic — their union easy - 15 LETTER IX. Falls on the River Chaudiere — travelling in the wood: very difficult — not so to the Indians and voyageurs — why — delirium the effect of being lost in the woods — illustrated by examples— Uiver Chaudiere — description of the Fall — the Fall of Montmorency — description thereof — comparison between the Montmorency and Chaudiere - 87 I » 47 LETTER X. Influence of the Canadians in the legislature- French language used in the House of Assembly — Le Canadien, a French newspaper — observations upon the conduct of the managers thereof — the effects of conquest — Canadians, by the articles of capitulation, not granted their old laws — proved by a review of the articles of capitulation — bad eflects of an improper administration of justice, illus- trated by examples — in Canada, no bankrupt laws — consequences thereof - - - 100 69 LETTER XI. Travelling in Canada — the caleshes— the aubergei— Canadian politeness conspicuous — manners of the people — appearance of the country — road from Quebec to Montreal — the seigneuries and conces- sions — rivers which lall into the St. Lawrence — Canadian farming — St. John's fort — Lake Cham- plain— Canadian farmers — In general poor — cause CONTENTS. Page of their poverty — the law making marriage a co- partnership, and creating a commuuite de bien 124 LETTER XII. •. * Montreal-— situation — Island of Montreal— surround- . ing country — Lake St. Peter's — markets of Mon- treal well supplied — La Chine — arrival and de- parture of the North-west canoes — the canoe de- scribed—the North-West Company— their origin —Canadian voyageurs— Upper Canada trade from Montreal— -bateaux — Indians of different nations — remarks on them - - • - 144 LETTER XIII. Population of Canada — Upper and Lowej Canada — reasons for a greater increase of population in Upper than in Lower Canada— Upper Canada pre- ferred by emigrants— why — general idea of the trade of Canada—statement of exports on an aver- age of five years- presents co the Indians— how far advisable thai ley sho ^d be continued LETTEr XIV. Canadian trade with the U ted States — statement of imports from America, 3y way of St. John's, in \S06— -exports by way .' St. John's— balance of trade against Canada — pa.v. 'A specie — business of. exchange considered — currency of Canada — go- vernment bills — treaty with America — advantages not reciprocal — American trade with India — its effects on the trade of Canada with Britain disad- vantageous - .. - - 164 \19 i Page I co- 124 und- iflon- . de- ede- rigin from tions 144 nada n in pre- ■ the ver- how 164 lent kn's. \ PREFACE. , liie of the latter more forcibly, there are added in the Appendix the petitions and memorials from Nova Scotia and Now Brunswick to the British government, in which the productions and resources of those countries are stated, and the line of policy pointed out, which they imagine most likely to promote their welfare. The immense regions in North Ame- rica, which still form a part of the British empire, are very little known to the Eng- lish nation ; and yet the statesman, the philosopher, and the merchant, might there find an ample field for the exercise of his talents. Tlie gcogr-iph'-al position of our North American ct nies, relative to the United States ; their mmense extent of territory, and tlieir commercial import- ance, ought to induce us (particularly at the present moment) to turn our attenticm that way. To effect this end, is, in a great measure, the object of the present publi- cation. 179 i.)i'- CONTENTS. 'M A/ 4 LETTER XIX. Range of the thermometer in Canada — ndvantages derived from the frost — meat, fowls, and fish, pre- served by being frozen — manner of doing so — price of provisions in winter — fire wood — coals — extra- ordinary effects of cold — burning by a cold iron — exempl fied an J cxplaine 1 — f rest-bitten frequent in Canada — the remedy — the difference in the manner in which a cold iron, and a cold atmosphere affect the body ^ - Page 282 LETFER XX. A sudden change from extreme cold to warm wea- ther frequent in the middle of winter — its effects — the VER GLAS — facts to shew the intensity of the cold — stoves generally used in Canada in winter — their advantages — experiments on tlie expan- sive force of freezing water in bomb-shells — the effects of frost on water confined in the fissures of rocks, in the walls of houses, &c. — Canadians use dogs in drawing light weights 299 LETTER XXL Conclusion of the Canadian winter — breaking up of the ice — account of a vessel arriving while the ri- ver was full of ice — state of the ice in the spring —vegetation under the snow — return of the fea- thered tribes — the land not so deeply penetrated by the frost as might be imagined — the causes m CONTENTS. il Page 1 i ill '■!i -•^-dliMHtk thereof— the long continoance of winter may re- tard the improvement of Canada, but not pre- vent it — comparison between Russia and Canada —and between the Neva and the St. Lawrence — effect of winter on the habits of the people 312 LETTER XXIL The constitution of Canada — the legislative council —the house of assembly — observations on the pro- priety of having given to Canada a representative form of government — complaints of the Canadians — unfounded — civil list of Canada-— disposition of the mass of the people - LETTER XXIIL The English language not the language of Canada — English schools — opposed by the Canadians — go- vernment have not exerted themselves to intro- duce English — inducements for the Canadians to prefer English to French — English the most uni- versal of all languages — Canadian militia LETTER XXIV. Canadian tenures— m fief- — en roture — the seigneu- ries— grants or concessions of land — townships held in free and common soccage — ^grantees bound to have a certain number of settlers on their lands in a given time — ^the boundaries of Canada — ex- tract from the definitive treaty of peace with Ame- rica — situation of the river St. Croix— Bay of Pas- S22 335 Paga ly re- : pre- anada ice — 312 »uncil jpro- tative dians on of 322 CONTENTS. Page samaquoddy— sovereignty of the islands therein disputed — river Ponobscot — route from Nova Scotia to Quebec — in the grants of townships the crown makes certain reserves — roads leading from Canada to the United States — numbers of Ame- ricans settled on the townships — reflections there- on—policy of the mother country in her manage- ment of colonies - - - - 348 APPENDIX. da— go- tro- s to luni- 335 No. Page I. DUTIES payable in Canada on goods im- ported - _ - - . 371 II. Allowances at the Custom-house - - 373 III. Post-office regulations - . . 374 IV. Roads and distances in Canada - - 375 V. List of governors of Canada - - 377 VI. List of the counties — number of representa- tives — and of parishes _ - . 373 VII. Account of provisions and lumber imported into the West Indies in the years 1804, 1805, and 1806. VIII. Account of the value of exports from Eng- land to America and the "West Indies, exclusive of the United States, in 1806, 1807, and 1808 379 CONTENTS. No. rage IX. Account of the value of imports and exports between Great Britain and the United States of America in 1806, 1807, and 1808 - - 380 X. Exports from Quebec in 1808 - - 382 XI. Memorial and petition of the merchants, and other inhabitants of New Brunswick, to the Se- cretary of State - • , " ■ 3^^' XII. Petition of the merchants, and other inha- bitants of Halifax, to the Secretary of State j ^ and memorial referred to therein - - 389 XIII. Address respecting the islands in Passama- quoddy Bay - • - - 4 ) XIV. Declaration as to the boundaries of the river St. Croix 40S i|| ;■ "•:!.;■' \ ■ 9,^ -> \ . \ ■ ■ li I :; 1/ rage orts s of - 380 - 382 and Se- - 385 ha- ite; - 389 rna- - 4 ) ver 1 - 405 m^ m . \ • , f } t 1 - 1 1 M ■-^•^jwwfci jtf*.r^r-<». -- w^^ptlSfc.- // I f.!^fitm )itfttij^ni .hi/itt^ifto^h^t*t^nua% * C*? w 1 ■^T. ^'' r..-n„t<'n hi/ifijhnl ,hi/if rtf^ ttto^,i^ Z%i%ffmm ^ t^'Mmiurtf^Sp* It^ 1 ■■* -j « • • . *• i;!, \\ tl( LETTERS P&OM CANADA. LETTER I. At Sea, May, 1806. I PROMISED to write you, my worthy friend, on my arrival in Canada ; I will do more; I will write you before I get there. You may perhaps say, What can be found worthy of notice on the face of the trackless ocean } Not so much, I grant you, as in the cultivated vale, or crowded city. But on the ocean even, we meet with occurrences wliich highly excite our curiosity, and merit our attention. Our approach to the Ame- rican shore ; our crossing the Gulf of St. Lawrence; our progress up that noble river; m ♦ I 'I I; f ' I cannot fail to furnish objects well deserv- ing remark. The promise I have mude you, to com- municate whatever is new and interesting, will act as a stimulus to observation, and keep my attention on the alert. Canada is a most important country to Great Britain. It claims our attention from its geographi- cal position relative to the United States; from its extent of territory ; from its numer- ous productions ; and from its rising value as a British colony. Few subjects are likely to be more interesting than the topographi- cal description of a country so little known to us, presenting every where features pe- culiar and striking, and phenomena well deserving the attention of any one the least acquainted with natural history. It is very interesting also to trace the character of a people up to its origin, in the nature of the government and laws ; the state of the ad- ministration of justice ; and the peculiari- ties of their local situation, and of their climate ; from all which, nations receive a bias in their mannei's, customs, and pur- suits. It shall be my endeavour, during my residence in Canada, to elucidate these points, and make myself acquainted with its trade and political economy. I am well aware, that to perform this task with propriety requires talents very superior to any thing of which I can boast: but men who are every way qualified will not be found ready to undertake it. The field is not sufficiently productive of either fame or fortune ; I look for neither in ad- dressing you, and if I encroach upon the province of an abler pe^, I trust I shall be foi^iven. Information, in a rude dress, is better than none at all; and here, on the great Atlantic Ocean, I shall attempt to embody in phrase the fieeting thought. A smooth sea and fine weather enable me to commence our correspondence. The weather hitherto has been pretty favourable, not however without some va- riety. Indeed, the wind has been some- times extremely violent, at least what a landsman would call so: on these occa' sions, the proper place for us landlubbers is our cabin ; we should turn in, as the sailors call it. You may, no doubt, go to bed, but you cannot say you go to rest, for you are incessantly rocked about in the roost i illl unpleasant manner, from the rolling and pitching of the vessel. Besides, the abo- irinably jarring discordant sounds with which one is constantly annoyed on board ship, are intolerable, particularly in the middle of the night, when all is dark around you, and sleep is wished for in vain. A heavy swell heaves and strains the ship ; the waves dashing and roaring under the cabin-windows; the ropes and sails flapping and rattling overhead ; the timbers and bulkheads creaking, cracking, and growling ; form altogether such a pretty kind of concert, as one might expect to find in the palace of Pandemonium. A gale came on a few days ago: I coiild neither sit nor stand without great exer- tion ; but curiosity kept me on deck. The waves ran tremendously high, and the .ship seemed ready to be swallowed up. One moment you are elevated, and mount the briny swell ; you are then sunk down, im- mersed in the deep, shut up, as it were, by the foammg surge, which seems to pre- sent on all sides an insuperable barrier. A sudden squall laid the ship almost on her beam-ends ; a head sea struck her whilc?^ gunwale under, and made a clear sweep fore and aft ; to hold fast is, in this case, your only chance of safety. The ship at length righted, and we saw the seamen at the prow, emerging, as it were, from the wave, reeling from side to side, making fast every thing they could, and putting themselves in situations that a landsman shudders even to look at. The waves were running, what those who delight in hyper- bolical description would call, mountains high. In fact, we were so deeply immersed sometimes, and the waves were rolling so high around us, that we could not see the top-gallant royals of a frigate that happen- ed to be within a few hundred yards of us, so that at any rate we must have had a very pretty specimen of a storm of the first .a^itudi By and by the gale ceases; your appre- hensions of danger subside ; and reflection on the past scene satisfies you that it is, in the nature of things, very improbable that a ship should sink. Her whole ma- terials are buoyant ; and her form is such, that while the water is prevented from dis- I ■! n :i M placing the air contained in her, she can no more sink than can a bladder filled with air, or an empty cask. Such reflections, and a conviction that your vessel is strong and good, prepare you for the next gale. Confidence grows fast upon you, and you cease to be surprised that seamen, who know these things, and who have escaped so many storms, should become cal'.ous, in a great measure, to the dangers of the sea. There is certainly something very sub- lime in a storm; the scene is awfully grand. Fear has generally been considered as a source of the sublime; and in the case of a storm, I cannot help thinking that it al- ways exists. I cannot imagine, notwith- standing all I have heard seamen say, that they, or any one else, can, in a storm, be entirely divested of it. Whatever confi- dence they have in their vessel, they must know that they are liable to a variety of ac- cidents, which will greatly increase their risk and danger. The being accustomed to any particu- lar danger lessens its operation on the mind ; but the danger is not removed, nor is its ill I m ;he can 3d with actions, strong t gale, id you 1, who scaped !ous, in he sea. ry sub- grand, d as a ise of a t it al- 3twith- y, that "w, be confi- 1^ must ofac- ! their irticu- mind; • is its nature altered. A manufacturer of gun- powder, for instance, works with as much unconcern as if he manufactured leather; yet we see instances every year of powder- mills being blown up, and every one near them destroyed. A brave fellow of a sea- man, by being engaged in a number of boarding parties, without receiving the least injury, may go on such enterprises cheerfully, and with little or no fear; yet it does not follow that a man, scrambling up the side of a ship, full of people ready to defend themselves, does not run a great risk of having a pike put through his body, before he himself can act either offensively or defensively. The mind does not willingly dwell on that which gives it pain. It accommo- dates itself to its condition; hence sea- men, manufacturers of gun-powder, and all those engaged in hazardous occupa- tions, soon cease to reflect on the dangers to which they are exposed. We are now on the banks of Newfoun4- land, the region of codfish ; and I am call- ed on deck. The ship is hove to for the ■' -^1 .- 1 8 purpose of fishing : fresh cod for dinner would be not a little acceptable; besides, I understand there is a good deal of amuse- ment in codrfishing ; you shall know what success we have : en attendant^ Adieu \ 'M ! I'll I ill' dinner isidesy I amuse- ►w \irhat ieul LETTER II. a Of Cape Breton^ May, 1806. Land-a-H£ad ! Land ! Land ! repeated halt a dozen voices. Joyful tidings I I had just fixed myself in a position to secure me against the rolling of the ship, a very necessary precaution at sea ; I had a sheet of paper before, me, for the purpose of saying sonlething to you about the banks of Newfoundland and cod-fishing, when my ears were agreeably assailed with the joyful sound of Land^a-head! I am very fond of music; yet I can safely say, that the fine tones* of a Catalani, which I have often heard with pleasure, or the modula- tion of a Braham, which is exquisite, are sounds vastly inferior in their power of pleasipg to the shout of Land-a-head, after having been tossed and buffeted across the Atlantic Ocean. Here we are, on the 20th May, in sight of Cape Breton, As we left Portsmouth on the 14th of April, our being now in sight \l t 10 of the New World is pretty fair. Five weeks at sea, however, is quite enough to give a high relish for a sight of land of any sort ; and you can hardly suppose a greater contrast than the land we have left — the green fields of England — and the barren mountains of the island of Cape Breton : yet we have great pleasure in looking at it. We have still a long voyage to perform. We have to cross the Gulf of St. Lawrence, , and go up the river, which may probably occupy a fortnight. For some days past the great increase of cold which we felt made us conjecture that we approached either snow-clad moun- tains, or islands of ice which are known to float in these latitudes at this season of the year. Those floating islands are of great height, some have been ascertained to rise upwards of two hundred feet from the sur- face of the sea; their breadth and depth in the water must, of course, have been immense. From the comparative speci- fic gravity of ice and water, the body of ice under water must have been rather more than Aths of what appeared above water. These islands are Svi) posed to be 11 formed on the coast of New Britain, and on the Labrador shore, during the severe winters which reign in those regions for about nine months in the year. The sea, in a gale, of wind, dashed against a rock, will be thrown up to a great height, and be arrested, in part, by the severe frost; frequent accumulation will render the mass of great magnitude. When the summer heat begins to melt the snow, and act upon the land, these immense masses of ice are loosened from the shore, and floated off by the north-west winds. They are supposed to continue and float in the Northern Ocean for more than one year; and they, in part, owe their immense height to the snow and rain which fall upon them and freeze. When, in the course of time, they are floated into the more soutliern lati- tudes, the warm air, which comes in con- tact with them, is condensed, and parts with the moisture it held in solution, which appeal's in the form of mist, and with which these immense masses of ice are constantly surrounded and constantly fed ; for during the night the vapour is frozen, and adds to the height of the whole mass. I ) t rsi i: m \\ \ 12 A vessel to leeward of one of these float- ing islands is surprised, sometimes before it is seen, with a sudden and unlooked for degree of cold ; and I am assured that it is extremely dangerous to approach them. There are many instances of Quebec ves- sels, and others, navigating those seas, having been wrecked on these islands of ice. The Ladi/ Hobart, a Halifax packet, struck on one a few years ago, and was totally lost. The passengers and crew took to the boat, and, after being /owr/ecw dat^s at sea, were fortunate enough to reach the island of Newfoundlan'd, but, as you may well suppose, in a most exhausted state. Notwithstanding the danger, I must own I felt a strong desire to see one of those huge masses of ice ; but we were not so fortunate. The cold we felt proceeded from the snow-clad mountains of the island of Cape Breton. It presented to us a very barren and dreary prospect, very different, indeed, from the smiling land we had left. Yet a great degree of interest is excited by a view of even this part of the new .world. -In crossing the banks of Newfound- land we had very unpleasant, hazy, and 13 wet weather, which, I am told, is generally found on them. It is accounted for in this way : An immense b idy of water, called by seamen The Gulf Stream, flows from the Gulf of Mexico, and proceeds along the coast of America, at a considera))le dis- tance from the shore. It^ breadth is ge- nerally supposed to be about 15 to 20 leagues. It runs at the rate of about four niile^ an hour, and it has been ascertained by the thermometer that it is considerably warmer than the ocean on each side of it. This heat is communicated to the air in con- tact with it, which therefore holds in solu- tion an increased quantity of water. When it gets, so far to the north as the banks of Newfoundland, it meets with a cold at- mosphere, which cools and condenses the warm air, and renders it incapable of re- taining all the water it previously had dis- solved ; and a deposition of it, in the form of mist, fog, and rain, takes place in con- sequence. These increase to such an ex- tent as to obscure the sun for days, and sometimes weeks, to the great annoyance of the seaman, who is thereby prevented • i m- \\ IM 14 from taking an observation to ascertain his latitude. We have been so fortunate as to have a favourable and pretty strong wind to carry us across the banks, so that, with the exception of one day, we had no opportu- nity of fishing for cod. I was called on deck one day to look at a banker ; I immediately thought of Lot/i' bard'Street : yet it seemed strange that those who have so many thousand reasons for staying at home, should find any to in- duce them to be on board ^hip, alongside of us, on the banks of Newfoundland. I found, however, that the banker is a small vessel stationed on the banks for Jie sole purpose of fishing. There are immense numbers of them. They come from New- foundland, and also from the United States ; for we have given the Americans liberty to fish on the banks, and also on the coasts, bays, and creeks, of all our. dominions in America. 1 doubt much how far it was wise policy in our government to allow the Americans to participate in this trade. There might perhaps be less objection to it in time of 1 , N I\ h 1 ' ij, i t t i I 1 15 war, when our communication witli the continent is so much abridged that we cannot supply their demands ourselves. But in time of peace we could certainly manage the whole of this trade; and in time of war even, there seems no reason why we should not exclusively supply our West India market. I do not see how Bri- tish capital could be employed more advan- tageously to the country than in a trade which draws real Wealth from the ocean, increases our shipping, and augments the number of our seamen. When one reflects on the great extent of the Banks of Newfoundland, being nearly four hundred miles in length, by about two hundred miles in breadth, be- sides the smaller banks and fishing grounds on the coast of Cape Breton, and round the shores and islands of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, there seems room enough for all the cod-flsh catchers in the world ; and it may seem hard that any of them should be excluded. But as Great Britain has both the right and the power to monopolize this trade, I cannot see any impropriety in her doing so. The allowing the Americans 16 a share in this trade was an act of pure generosity on the part of Britain. How- ever, a nation ought to be just to its own subjects before it is generous to those of another country. For some days past we have seen a great number of enormous whales rolling their huge carcasses in the deep. It is curious enough to observe them when several appear near the vessel at the same time. They come to the surface to breathe, or blow, as it is generally called (and with great propriety, for the noise is equal to that of fifty bellows of the largest size), and the water is spouted to an immense height, like the steam of a fire engine, x Amongst the extraordinary things one meets with at sea, it is not one of the least surprising to observe small land-birds several hundred miles from land. I was sitting on deck the other day, when, to my -great surprise, my attention was arrested by the warbling of a bird. I looked up, and saw a linnet perched on the rigging, and whist- ling with as much ardour as if on a bush in a green meadow. It is probable tliey are driven to sea in a gale of wind, or, ^ 17 perhaps a fog may conceal the land from them, and by taking a wrong direction, they may proceed to sea ; still it in a matter not a little surprising that they should be able to continue on the wing so long as is necessary to fly several hundreds of miles, particularly when the usual shortness of their flight is considered. They continue sometimes with a vessel for several days, and are frequently caught by the sailors ; but it is remarked that they seldom, live, though every care is t^iken to give them proper food. When the vessel rolls much, they find it difficult to retain their footing on the rigging, and you see them forced, as it were, to resume their flight in search of a better resting-place : poor little crea- tures! they look for it in vain. You at length see them drop into the sea. It is surprising what hold such little incidents take of our sensibilities. To-night we expect to enter the Gulf of St. Lawrence. I trust the weather may continue favourable, and the wind moder- ate, so as to enable me to write again be- fore we enter the river. In the mean time, I must go on deck, and take another' view of Cape Breton. G 18 LETTER III. ■h! Gulf of St. Lawrence, May, J 806. We are now in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, v/hich we entered a few days ago. The entrance through which we passed is the principal one ; it is sixty miles broad, and is formed by Cape North, In the island of Cape Breton, on the south side, and by Cape Raiy, in Newfoundland, on the north side. There is another communication with the ocean, through the Streights of Belleisle, between Newfoundland and the Labrador shore, but it is seldom used, ex- cept by running vessels from Qtiebec, that are going to Scotland, or the north of England. The third comniunication with the ocean is by the Gut of Canso, through which, vessels coming from the West In- dies, or the United States of America, generally enter the Gulf. This passage, which is very narrow, separates Cape Breton from New Brunswick. The inland country of Cape Breton ap- ex- ihat of ith igh In- ip- 19 pears very mountainous, and they still (25th May) are covered with snow — a chill- ing prospect. We acquired possession of Cape Breton in 1763, and erected it into a separate government in 1784. There is in this island, which is about a hundred miles in length by sixty in breadth, much arable land, which at present abounds with hard- wood and pine timber. This country is of great value to Britain, for several reasons. As it commands the Gulf of St. Lawrence, it may be considered as the key of Canada. There are in its neighbourhood very valu- able fisheries, which cannot well be carried on without a harbour in the island, and the harbour of Louisburgh is the principal one for that purpose. Great advantages are likely to accrue from the valuable coal-mines in Cape Breton. There is also abundance of iron. The working of the coal-mines, together with the fisheries, form the chief employ- ment of the inhabitants. Communication with the interior of the island is rendered easy by means of a number of lakes and in- lets from the sea, found in every directiou. J , m 26 a whale being attacked by a thresher and a sword'Jish. One would think that the immense size and strength of the whale would put him entirely out of danger, but size and strength must often yield to inge- nuity and stratagem; no animal seems exempt from a violent death, not even the whale. Our Canadian pilot informed me that such conflicts were very common in the river St. Lawrence. The thresher (the Canadians call it un JlSau) is from fifteen to twenty feet long; of the flatfish genus, resembling a sole^ but rather longer in proportion ; the back, like that of the sole, is black; and the belly white. He is assisted in his attack on the whale by the sword-fish. It would seem that pure anti- pathy and mischief are alone the causes of this combination ; they have not the sti- mulus of hunger, as they do not eat the whale when dead. Fish are generally con- sidered to be extremely stupid animals ; but here you have a concerted plan, and an instance of ratiocination, approaching to that of the dog or fox. When the attack is to commence, the sword-fish gets under the whale, and darts 27 up at him with immense force*. The whale, feeling the stroke and attack of the sword-fish, flies to the top of the water, where the thresher attacks him. I saw the whale come up, raising his huge back high out of the water. The tail of the thresher was immediately seen brandished in the air, and most part of his body out of the water; flap after flap he struck the whale on the back as fast as I could with a stick, who, feeling the blows, darts down head foremost, raising his immense forked tail in the air, and striking with it on every side, apparently with a view of hitting the thresher, and if. it did, instant death most ,.:? ■.;1 * To shew the strength of the sword-fish, it may be proper to observe, that the sword has been found stick- ing in the bottom of a ship. On the 1 6th September, 1806, in A^ris ship-yard, in Kensington, near Phila- delphia, the ship Pensilvania packet was hove down, and it was found that she had been struck six feet below the bends by a sword-fish : the sword had pierced the copper sheathing, and bottom plank, to the ceiling inside ; the sword wa:; broken short off outside ; it had been driven in with such force as to splinter the plank and cause a leak.. It is supposed that the sword-fish mistakes the ship for a whale. I believe there is to be seen, in the British Museum, a part of the bottom of a ship, with the sword of the fish which pierced it sticking in it. !^' (I IRI 'I'M "m I 28 probably would follo\^. The 8word-fish again attacks him ; the whale rises again, and is again attacked by the thresher; he again descends, but attempts in vain to elude the attack of his enemies. I saw him several times raise his head out of the water, at the moment the thresher's tail was brandishing in the air, and striking him. He seemed to attempt to catch it in his mouth. The conflict continued in view about an hour. Sometimes they remained under water for a few minutes, but the whale must come to the surface of the water to breathe, or*blow, as it is called; and be- sides, the attacks from the sword-fish, it is to be presumed, were incessant, and would naturally make him rise to the surface. It is probable they did not leave the whale till they had killed him. I understand, from the Canadians, that whales have been found killed by the sword-fish, who at the same time has fallen a saci:ifice to his own furious attack, not having been able to draw the sword from its whale-belly scabbard. This latter circumstance, if true (for I fl9 have not myself seen it), is sufficient evi- dence to prove that the sword-fish assists the thresher in his attack on the whale, and I find that the Canadians all agree that the sword-fish has a share in the battle. It is impossible to conceive any thing more desperate than the conflict appeared to be. To see the tremendous animals in contact, part of both raised high out of the water at the same time ; the black back and immense head of the whale, contrast- ed with the long white and black tail of the thresher, in constant action, literally threshing the whale most unmercifully; every blow resounding like the noise of a cannon: feeling the blows, and galled on all sides by creatures he might well despise, he flounces about, blowing and making a tremendous noise ; dashing the water to a prodigious height, and oc^casioning a sort of local storm. One. would imagine that Job alluded to such battles when he describes the Le- viathan :— " out' of his nostrils goeth smoke; he maketh the deep to boil like a pot; he maketh a path to shine after him ; one would think the deep to be hoary.'* ' ) •I" .'ill /i4 ^^ |iS I 1l 30 . There was something extremely sub- lime in the whole scene : had a Milton be- held it, he certainly would have given it a place in his writings, clothed with all that fine imagery and lofty diction his wonder- ful genius could so well bestow, I perceive my letter is of great length : how can it be otherwise, in talking of the largest river, the largest animals, and amongst the largest mountains in the world ? Every thing around me is on the grand scale. Let us have a little respite, however. I dare say you think it is high time. 31 LinTER IV. River St. I/twrence, qff Cape Chat ^ Thirty 'Cigkt leagues from Aiiticosti, May, 1800. We have been heating up against a con- trary wind since yesterday, and have, in tackingy liad an opportunity of approach- ing both sides of this immense rivqr,, JT^e - appearance of the country is very different indeed from any thing you can see in Europe. The whole, to the very edge of the water, is one continued forest. The trees, however, appearing scraggy and dwarfish, present a most desert and me- lancholy aspect, without the least appear- ance of the country being the residence of human beings. Probably it looks pretty much the same now that it did to Jaques Cartier, when, in the year 1535, he sailed up the river St. Lawrence, and discovered Canada, The ;:iver had its name from his having entered it on St. Lawrence's day. The etymology of the word Canada, or wJiJ/ the country t ■ -■ ■ - 1 ■ ii. ' i mk ilil received this name, are equally unknown. I have heard a definition, which is more whimsical, perhaps, than true. It is said that the Spaniards had visited the country before the French did; but finding it very barren, and without goldy the grand ob- ject of their pursuit, they frequently, on the eve of their departure, mentioned in the presence of the Indians, " aca nada," signifying, here is nothing. When the French visited the country, the Indians, in hopes of getting rid of them, and suppos- ing them Spaniards, repeated frequently aca nada, which the Freiich, not under- standing, thought, might be the name of the country; hence they called it Canada, You may take this definition till you can find a better. To-day we have passed the isle of Bique, and we see some signs of an inha- bited country. The face of the heavens appears quite darkened with smoke, aris- ing from the burning of the woods, which is the method taken in this part of the world to clear and prepare the land for cultivation. We see the forest burning at a great distance, and in a variety of situ- ation! appa there! situal trans] quire^ timb( qualit pence W is gen of an of the tinues see her sumed very la top. ' fore it who f] cultiva up in trunks same quality surroui Af *s ations. One cannot help regretting this apparent waste of timber ; but the fact is, there is yet as much timber to be found in situations from which it can be easily transported to the river, as the market re- quires; besides, the greater part of the timber we see burning is of an inferior quality, and would not be worth the ex- pence of transportation. When the underwood is thick, which is generally the case where the trees are of an inferior size and quality, the blaze of the burning forest is awful. It con- tinues to burn for weeks together, and you see here and there, am6ngst the half con- sumed ordinary sized trees, the trunks of very large trees, scorched black to the very top. The fire lays waste every thing be- fore it for many miles beyond what those who firet kindled it, intettded, or could cultivate ; and you see a new forest grown up in many places, while the old charred trunks of lofty trees still remain nearly the same as when first burnt ; for it is the quality of charcoal to preserve what it surrounds from corruption. A {ew huts appear here and there on the D m U\i\ li \i ir r 11' .!i;:|-g: . ) i M i'! m fill 34 shore. Their mutual wants and mutual de^ fence induce the settlers to draw near eacK other. We have here the very rudiments- of civil society. The inhabitants of these huts are Canadians ; they have few wants which their own industry and ingenuity cannot supply ; they are their own archi- tects, carpenters, shoemakers, and tay- lors ; and except for their hatchets, and a few simple tools, they are very little de- pendant on foreign assistance. We have receiv€d a visit from some Indians; they came off to us in a birch canoe, on purpose to dispose of some fish they had caught. We took them on board, and as they were the first Indians I had ever seen, they excited my curiosity riot a little. Poor, miserable looking creatures they certainly were ; feeble and diminu- tive in form, they gave us a very disad- vantageous idea of their countrymen^ It is hardly fair, however, to judge of a people from the appearance of a few fisher- men ; at thCSame time, we ought to recol- lect that the Indians are all fishermen and hunters, and that therefore those we saw are more likely to be a fair sample of the ti 35 whole tribe, than the fishermen or huntera of a nation which employs the great ma- jority of its people in the arts of civil so- ciety, are to be considered as a sample of the people of such nation. We received from them all their fish ; they would not take money in return, but seemed highly pleased when we gave them in' exchange, a bottle of brandy, and some salted pork} They got into their feeble bark, and paddled off, singing for joy.— Limited, indeed, are the wants of these poor creatures, when such a trifling cir- cumstance could gladden their hearts. As we proceeded farther up the river, the country assumed a more favourable aspect ; the number of habitations increas- ed, and we began to observe marks of cul- tivation. We passed the Island of Bique, where vessels bound for Quebec and Mon- treal usually take pilots; for the naviga- tion of the river now becomes more intri- cate, from the number of islands, banks, and shoals, which abound. At Bique there is good anchorage ; and the frigates which come to convoy the Canada ships home, do not in general go higher : it is A\ .li ,' ■■'„■ ' •"«' '■'y '•' ;j|;^' ,;.) '*'■ '':• 1 .j^\ - 4u 1 H ^^m ■it 36 the usual place of rendezvous. The vessels from Quebec proceed down to Bique to receive their saihng instructions. It is distant from Quebec about loO miles, and from Montreal near 3o0. After passing Bique, several beautiful islands make their appearance ; Green Island, Hare Island, the islands of Kau- mouraska, and a variety of others, all cover- ed vi'ith wood. Some of them are inhabit- ed, and in a state of cultivation ; no more wood being left than is necessary for fuel and other domestic purposes. This, in the course of time, will be the case with almost all of them, as the soil of many is very good. The magnitude of the river now strikes one very forcibly, for though it is about twenty miles broad, I found, on tasting some of the water at half ebb tide, that it was perfectly fresh. I really do believe that there is more fresh water thrown into the ocean from this rive r,than from all the rivers in Europe put together. I have seen many of the largest of them. A dozen Danubes, Rhines, Rhones, Taguses, and Thameses, would be nothing to twenty U 11 37 miles of fresh water in breadth, from ten to forty fathoms in depth. The mountains on both sides are very high, and often terminate in capes or bold headlands, which have a very fine effect. In general, I perceive that there is, on both sides of the river, a tract of land compara- tively level, between high-water mark and the first range of mountains, particularly on the south side ; and we see parish churches, villages, and a general appear- ance of cultivation. Yet still the strip of cultivated ground, viewed from the river, is so small, compared with the high wood- covered mountains in the back ground of the picture, that it is scarcely enough to take off the appearance of complete savage wildness. The sombre hue of the pine forest is a strong contrast to the lively verdure of the corn-fields. I perceive that the spring is very late in this part of the country : in many places the rising grain is not suffi- ciently advanced to cover the ground, and the forest trees are not yet in leaf. Vege- tation, in general, is very little advanced, although we are now at the end of May. ■%\ .' • ■' ^!' ' i :H ii I I'll m 38 One cannot help being struck with this tardy appearance of spring in a latitude so far south. We are now in latitude 48, which IS not only to the south of the most southerly part of England, but even con- siderably to the south of Paris, where sum- mer heat is now oppressive. If we com- pare the commencement of vegetation in the old and new world, we shall perceive a striking difference even where both situ- ations may feel the influence of the sea air. In Norfolk (on the coast), which is at nearly, an equal distance from the north and south extremes of England, vegetation was last year very generally observed, both in the field and in the forest, about the middle of March, although upwards of five degrees to the north of our present situ- ation. We anchored, during the night, at the foot of the traverse, a well known part of the St. Lawrence, where we first had an op- portunity of observing the great rapidity of the tides, and where, from shoals and islands, the navigation, to strangers, be- comes somewhat difficult, and even dan- 39 gerous ; but with a good pilot and a fair wind there is Utile or no risk. This morning we have a fine breeze, and we approach Quebec fast. We are now opposite the Island of Orleans, one of the largest in the river, and one of the most beautiful. It is about thirty miles iu length, by "i'u lut ten in breadth. Look- ing at this island one might fancy one's self in some part of Britain. The greatest part of it appears cultivated; and villages and cottages every where present themselves to the eye. Quebec just begins to open to our view in very fine style : the scenery on both sides of the fiver is charming. On the left we see Point Levi, with its roman- tic church and scattered cottages ; on the right is the upper point of tiie Island of Orleans ; beyond it the main land opens to view, and you are struck with the magnifi- cent Falls of Montmorency, A river, called The Mmitmorencyy of very considerable magnitude (as large as the Thames at Rich- mond), is seen precipitating itself in a body over a perpendicular precipice of 346 feet. It is allowed to be one of the '1 "n '^v"" 1 ■ih- ilr m- 1 \:'^ \Y 1 i. ' 1 s it-ii ri'' 40 finest waterfalls in the world. The eye then runs along a cultivated country for about half a dozen mjles, and the prospect is terminated by a ridge of mountains on the right, and by Cape Diamond and the Plains of Abraham on the left, where you see the city and battlements of Quebec commanding majestically the surrounding Goqntrj. The ship is alongside the wharf; and although she is as good a ship, and we have ]iad as good a voyage as falls to the lot of most people, yet I do assure you, I very willingly step out of her^-^into the ContU nent of America. iiii ij':' ■ .'-'IT 4i l\ LETTER V. ■' ) f* Quebec, July, 1806. Having led you, my worthy friend, across the Atlantic, and Gulf of St. Lawrence, and conducted you up the river to Quebec, let us take a view of this famous city and its neighbourhood. I have now been here a few weeks; and a few weeks residence is, I conceive, quite enough to enable one to see and judge of the outward and visible part of a country, its inhabitants, and their customs. Indeed, I am convinced that it is during the first few weeks' residence that you are best qualified to judge of, and de- scribe these matters. In the first place, the appearance and manners of the country you came from, are alive in recollection; hence you will the more forcibly be struck with every thing new ; and in the second place, while these impressions are new, they will so occupy your mind, as to enable you, with facility, to describe .;A?a! 'A f'^ , - H ■ i i. i ri'' •4. } f 1 1 ! •: 1 '■: i 'i illij m i r:i:,|l ill 43 them clearly and forcibly, which you would have great difficulty in doing after time had familiarized them to you, and weakened your recollection of that country, and of those appearances with which you originaUy contrasted them. Hence you always find that the thiest and most Kvely descriptions of countries, of people, and of manners, are given by travellers who make a point of noting down, under the impressions of the moment, what- ever may strike them as worthy of re- mark. Europeans have ever been told that the appearance of America is extremely imposing; and, so far as I have seen, I can safely bear testimony to the truth of the remark. Nature seems to have sketch- ed the picture with a bold hand : the out- line is rough, but the effect is grand, and ^ la distance, the scenery is extremely pleasing. There is not, perhaps, in the whole ex- ^nt of this immense continent, so fine an approach to it as by the river St. Law- rence. In the southern states you have, in general, a level country for many miles in- 43 land; here you are introduced at once into a majestic country : every thing is on the grand scale ; mountains, woods, lakes, rivers, precipices, waterfalls, all shew the hand of nature in a vast and imposing manner : the stamp, the impression of originality, are conspicuous every where. The pigmy operations of man, the marks of civilization and of cultivation, here and there meet the eye ; yet, nevertheless, the country has still the appearance of an im- mense forest. When we reflect on the number of years this country has been in the possession of Europeans, we cannot help being sur- prised that it should still retain so much of its original rudeness : it is now about 260 years since it was taken possession of by the French. However, it must be confess- ed, they cannot be said to have had peace- able possession. They were very soon at- tacked by the Indians, who kept them in an almost constant state of warfare ; they were never free from alarms; and in this perilous situation they continued for many years. The infant colony seems to have been very much neglected by Old France, 1 ;:;Jit ! < I ■ii '.! ' • 1 W' Wm^'A^ m iu 44 who did not by any means watch over it with a motherly care. The colonizing of Canada was for many years entrusted to private individuals, who, at their own expence, fitted out ex- peditions. They were usually men of rank and fortune, who took the lead in these expeditions, receiving from government an exclusive right to trade with the Indians in furs, which at first was the principal ar- ticle of Canadian commerce. These lead- ing men found no difficulty in enticing as many individuals to accompany them as their funds could provide for. But ex- perience ever shewed that these expedi- tions were on too small a scale to ensure success or safety to the settlers. They were quite inadequate to putting them on a footing with their opponents, the Indians ; who harassed them in such a manner by continued and reiterated incursions, that they could neither sow nor reap in safety. From the year 1535, when Quebec was first discovered, to the year 1 664, a period of 129 years, the government and trade of Canada were in the possession of private merchants holding under patents from the ■¥ ■ 1 ' 1 r J 1 45 king of France. In the year 1 664, the king assumed the government; a governor Whs. appointed ; but the trade of the country was given excUisively to the Com- pany dcs Incles Occident ales. The English had by this time esta- blished colonies in New England, and at Boston, who did every thing in their power to weaken and annoy the French colony, which they found interfered in their trade with the Indians. Indeed, the English attacked and took Quebec so far back as the year 1629; but it was restored to the French by the treaty of St. Germain in 1632. The French government, even after they took the colony under their own imme- diate care, seem to have paid more atten- tion to the fur trade, to exploring the in- terior of the country, cultivating the friend- ship of the Indians, and spreading the Roman catholic religion, than to the im- provement of the country in agriculture, and the promotion of the arts, and the do- mestic pursuits of civil society. It is surprising to think with what per- severance and industry the Roman catholic \\V\.- ill 'f!?f4 m 46 missionaries explored the ^interior of the country; submitting to the privation of every comfort, adopting the savage mode of life, subjecting themselves to a thou- sand insults, and even to death itself, which was inflicted sometimes in the most barbarous manner. Without going into the merits of the cause which prompted «uch perseverance,— such heroic conduct, we cannot help admiring the men who thus evinced their zeal and courage. Where the intention is good, praise is due, and we may suppose will have its reward from Him who knoweth the heart, I shall close this, as an opportunity oc- curs for England. In my next you shiall have some account of one of the first cities on the Continent of America, in celebrity at least, if not in extent. .1 *ia 47 ; !■ LETFER VI. Quebec, August, 1806', Amoxgst the great variety of cities which I have had occasion to visit in my peregri- nations through Britain, and the different countries on the continent of Europe, I think I never saw any one which has so happy a situation as Quebec'*^. Samuel de Champlain, who founded it in the year I6O8, deserves immortal honours for the judiciousness of his choice. It ever has been considered, and probably ever will be considered, as the capital of that immense region called the Canadas. It certainly is the key of the river St. Law- rence, which contracts suddenly opposite to the city, being only about a mile in breadth; whereas the bason of Quebec, ira- mediately below, is from four to five miles in breadth; and the river widens immedi- ately above the city. The grand battery, of Quebec is opposite to the narrowest * Latitude 46.55, longitude 70. 10. * ;! ,\ ■ !. ■m iM If 48 part of the river, and is an extensive range of very heavy ordnance, besides some 13 inch mortars, which, if properly served, must destroy any vessels which might attempt to pass, or come near enough to injure the town. The river opposite to Quebec is about 100 feet in depths and affords good an- chorage: for a considerable way above Quebec it is navigable for ships of any size. Indeed, large ships go as high up as Montreal, which is near 200 miles above Quebec. The site of Quebec seems to have been destined by nature for the capital of an etnpire. The surrounding country is mag- nificent; and it is seen to great advantage from Cape .Diamond, which overlooks the great river, and is the termination of the plains of Abraham. It is a very difficult thing to convey by words a correct idea of any town, or give a just notion of the situation of a place, and the appearance of its surround- ing scenery. In reading the description of a place, we naturally draw a picture of it in oyr own mind; but it is always an I >f a md- Lion :ure ati 49 erroneous one. Nothing but a model, if properly executed and coloured, or a pano^ rama, the most excellent of all sorts of painting, can enable one to form so coiTect an idea of a place as to supersede the ne- cessity of visiting it. I recollect how much I was struck with the difference between the "picture I had drawn in my own mind of many places of consequence and celebrity, the descrip- tions of which I had read, and their real and true appearance on inspection. Of these the most striking were London, Lis- bon and its magnificent Cintra, Gibraltar, Montpellier, Lyons, Paris, and many other places of note on the continent of Europe. Although the picture I had drawn to my- self of Quebec was not correct, yet it was fully as near the truth as I expected it would be. I do not pretend to be a great profi- cient in the topographic art, but the drav/- ings of Quebec are, in general, so very er-" roneous, or at least so inadequate to the , end proposed, that the aid of description seems extremely necessary, in order that a it 1^' llh'r :n i^i , ! il 50 tolerably correct idea of the place may be formed. The general course of the river St. Law- rence is from south-west to north-east. Above the island of Orleans, the St. Law- rence expands, and a bason is formed by the junction of a river called the St, Charles, which comes from a lake of the same name, situated amongst the mountains towards the north. After passing an Indian vil- lage, about ten miles from Quebec, called Lorette, situated upon elevated ground, the St. Charles takes its course through a plain, which is separated from the great river by a ridge of high land, about nine miles in length, extending from a place called Cape Rouge, to Cape Diamond, The general breadth of this ridge is from one to two miles. Cape Diamond is a bold promontory, advancing into the river St. La.vrence, of an elevation of 350 feet above the river, nearly perpendicular; and the baiiK the whole way to Cape Rouge is nearly of the same elevation, rising from the river almost perpendicular: the ridge slopes towards the north till it reaches the «"■■■■ '.■%-. . ^ ' ■ ■ • , ! ■•'-■•" »#. "I * IS rom - 51 ' '^ valley, through which the river St. Charles runs. This ridsje of land has every ap- pearance of having been an island, sur- rounded by the great river. The valley is full of lariie round stones, and other matter, which indicate the presence of water at no very remote period, and the operation of a strong current. On the north-east, or lower end of the peninsula, Quebec is situated; and the line of its fortifications runs from the river St. Charles, across, to the top of the bank which overlooks the St. Lawrence; the distance is about half a mile: and from the line of fortification to the point of Cape Diamond the distance is about ft quarter of a mile: within this space stands the city of Quebec. It consists of an Upper and Lower Town : the IJ pper Town may be said to be situated on Cape Dia- mond, at least upon the side of it. Which slopes towards the river St. Charles. It is much elevated above tlie Lower Town, and separated from it by a line of steep rocks, which run from the cape towards the river St. Charles. Formerlv the river St. Law- rence, at high water, came up close to these ' : •- m {■A . \ n I' i:; 52 rocks; but as the tide rises and falls here about fifteen feet, it gave an opportunity of taking from the river a considerable space; wharfs were built at low water- mark, and even at some places beyond it, and the intermediate ground filled up to such a height that it remained dry at high water. Upon this situation streets were laid out, and houses built. These streets run from the upper side of Cape Diamond down to the river St. Charles, a distance of about half a mile; they are of considerable breadth, and the houses are large and commodious; those next the river have attached to them very extensive warehouses (called, in the language of Quebec, hangards), and vessels come close to the wharfs to discharge their car- goes; at some of them the vessels remain afloat at low water, at others, which are not carried so far out, or where the river does not deepen so suddenly, the vessels lie dry at low water. The Lower Town is not included in the fortifications, but the passes to it are com- manded by the batteries in the line of for- tification, which surrounds the Upper Town; I. %\ i ■■ V. lie 53 so that the approach by land to the Lower Town will hardly be attempted by an ene- my. It is true the Americans attempted it in the winter of 1775, but they were re- pulsed with great slaughter. General Montgomery, in the winter 1775, besieged Quebec with an American army, and when reinforced by General Ar- nold attacked the city by assault on the night of 31st December. They were re- pulsed ; — the general and two of his aids- de-camp were killed. The blockade con- tinued during the winter: but on the arri- val of troops from England in the spring, the siege was raised, and the Americans driven out of the province. During the winter the town was de- fended almost wholly by the inhabitants; there were only forty soldiers in the garri- son. Luckily two king's ships wintered there, the crews of which assisted in the defence of the town. The deficiency of men in the garrison arose from their having been carried into the United States to fight 3ur battles in that quarter. The defeat of the Americans on the plains of Abraham, and their being obliged to raise the siege, i .' . : ' ' ' ■' ■ i 1 i , i •1 % ! : i !■ 1. M Ml i r i 1.4 ■- lili' I i 4 I. i 54 has contributed, amongst other things, to distinguish Quebec as a strong hold. The communication from the Lower Town to the Upper Town is by a winding street; at the top of which is a fortirted gate. On entering this gate, you find cm the right hand a large area, in which is si* tuated the house (dignified uith tiie title of a palace) in which the bishops of Que* bee formerly resided; at present it is used for public offices, and acconimorlates the supreme council and house of assembly. Beyond the palace ^you have the grand battery, on which are mounted many pieces of heavy artillery, besides mortars, which certainly command the channel of the great river. Turning to the left soon after entering the gate, you find yourself in another area or square; on the side next the river you see the Chateau de St. Louis, in which the governor resides. It is situated on the brink of a precipice, and you have the XiOwer Town of Quebec under your feet. The view from th*. gallery at the back of the chateau is extensive and grand. Oppo-r site to the chateau on the other side of the 55 square, you have the English church, a very elegant building; and the court house* where elegance is not so conspicuous. On the north side of the square you have a very handsome building, erected for, and used as, a tavern, hotel, and assembly room. In the neighbourhood of this squam you find towards the north an extensive area, in which is situated the Upper Towa market-house; a building perfectly unique in its kind. One does not know which to be most astonished at, whether the want of taste in the architect, or that his plant met with approbation: suffice it to say, that on a building one story high, you have a dome as large as that of St. Paul's la London. Never were the rules of archi* tecture and common sense more outraged. From the area of the, raarket*place dif« ferent streets diverge, leading to the difib> ent gates of the city; viz. Hope Gate, Pa* lace Gate, St. John's Gate, and St. Lewis's Gate, besides the gate leading to the Lower Town ; — these streets constitute the L^pper Town. Outside of St. John's and Palace Gate there are extensive suburbs^ wlueh i ; 1 Vl 'i i .11: # V r.': ', * '■! I 56 are increasing in size daily. The popula- tion of Quebec and its suburbs may be reckoned about ten thousand souls. There is nothing in the appearance of Quebec itself which strikes one as being very different from an English town, ex- cept, perhaps, the roofs of the houses ; they are generally covered with boards or shin- gles, and you always see on the roofs, seve- ral ladders, for the sake of easy access in case of fire. A shingle roof so much resembles a slate one, that when they are painted a slate colour, you cannot know the one from the other; the only evil attending them is, that they are liable to catch fire: from this circumstance, Quebec has for- merly suffered greatly from fires. A law has been passed encouraging the cover- ing houses with boards in place of shin- gles, and, indeed, prohibiting the latter al- together. I The dread of fire in Quebec is greater than in any place 1 have ever known, but when it is considered how much they for- merly have suffered from it, one ceases to be surprised. il '1? I,! 57 A society has been formed, called the Fire Society: they elect a president and other office bearers annually. The object of this socii^ty is to assist in the extinguishing of fire, for which purpose they have several engines and firemen; indeed, in case of fire almost every man may be said to be a fire- man, for every body lends his assistance : poor people who have been very active re- ceive pecuniary reward from the society. Their funds are raised by annuaL voluntary subscription. Many of the best houses, and most va- luable warehouses are covered with tin plates, which make not only a very beau- tiful and very durable roof, but are also a complete security against fire. j^ The reason that fire has spread so ra- pidly in Quebec has been, that tlie shingles wlien once inflamed, being extremely light, were blown by the wind to an incredible distance, and operated on other shingle roofs like a shower of^ fire. Now, the tin-plates receive the burning shingles with impunity; it might be imagined that the tin-plates would rust, but this is not the case. I have i!: i i i i i 1 1 ! 1 i : 1 1 • ; . it t i: f ■ fi \\m\m umin 0' I i V h'l i ■' ' 58 seen roofs near forty years old, and they not only remained perfectly bright, huthad never required any repairs ; so that although home- what expensive at first, a tin-plate roof will be a saving in the end. There are very few objects of curiosity in Quebec deserving the attention of a stranger. We have all read and heard so much about nunneries, without, in Eng- land, having an opportunity of seeing them, that the occasion no sooner presents itself than it is embraced. Strangers generally pay a visit to the Quebec nunneries: to me they were not objects of curiosity, having seen so many in Portugal and in Spain ; however I made one of a party, and visited them. There are three nunneries in Quebec, the Hotel Dieu, tlie Ursulines, and the General Hospital. The nuns appear to have as much reason to be satisfied with their si- tuation as any nuns can be supposed to have. They tell you that they are happy; but were they to say so a thousand times, you, somehow or other, cannot bring your- self to believe it; — so contrary to human 59 nature seems the life they lead. They will reason with you as to tiie propriety of their institution. — I observed to one of tUcni, with whom I had some coiversation, that I thought it a very cruel and untan* thnig to permit a young girl wlio was ignorant of the world, and eveii of the natural pri)pen- sities of her own heart and miiKi, at the age of fourteen, to t jke vows of ctornal celiba- cy, aiid seclusion from the world. Her answer was plausible if not conclusive: nhe said, that the law permitted young wo:nen of that age to take vows of eternal <;onstancy to man, — she did not see any good reason why they should be prohibited from taking vows of eternal constancy to (iod. The nuns here are not so useless, how- ever, as those in the south of Europe; they employ themselves in teaching young girls, readmg and needlework. They at the same time, it is true, instil into their young minds, very bigoted notions of their religion, which isa mutter of conscience with them : but it is to be regretted, that young peo[)le, who must necessarily have very fre(juent communication with heretics in ; ! 4 \ ' ' . 1 •*.: ' t '■ ^ ' i 1 •i •i I ^;! , ! ' ■i' i i • • ' I I '■■^: J* 60 t^i , hi the course of their future lives, should be taught to look on them with an unchari- table eye. However, I believe I can safely say^ that nowhere do the Roman Catholics and Protestants live on better terms than here. They go to each other's marriages, baptisms, and burials without scruple ; na}^ they hUve even been known to make use of the same church for religious worship, one party using it in the forenoon, and the other in the afternoon. There is sonietliing truly Christian in all this; it evinces a meekness of spirit, and a degree of charitable for- bearance with one another, which greatly promote general happiness. The Roman Catholic religion is that of the great majority of the people; and, by the Quebec bill of 1774, the clergy are authorised to receive ty thes from people of their own persuasion, but not from Protest- ants, or off lands held by Protestants, though formerly such lands might have been subject to tythes. The dues and tythes of these lands are still however paid; but it is to persons appointed by govern- W 61 ment ; and the amount is to be reserved ia tlie hands of the receiver-general for the support of protestant clergy actually resid- ing in the province. The governor may erect parsonages and rectories, and ehdow them out of these appropriations. The clergy of the church of England, in both provinces, amount at present to twelve only, exclusive of the bishop of Quebec; —of the church of Scotland there are only three; — of the church of Pome there are about two hundred. , Quebec on the north, north-east, and south sides, is so strongly fortified by the nature of the ground, that little has been left for the engineer to do ; what was ne- cessary however has been done: and as the great river, and the river St. Charles surround, in a manner, the fortifications in these directions, and in some places come very near the bottom of the rocks; no ene- my, if a common degree of vigilance is observed, can hope to succeed by an attack on these quarters. The least defensible part of Quebec is towards the south-west, where the line of 1 Jr ! k I If ,t'i '(■M "ff J mm 6% fortifications extends from one side of the peninsula to the other, enclosing the city and highest part of Cap>e Diamond. There, a cavallicr battery lias lately been erected, which commands the ground to a consi- derable distance from the walls; at the extent of the range of this battery, martello towers are about to be erected, which will sweep the plains of Abraham, and prevent, in vsome measure, an enemy from approach- ing near enough the walls to make a breach. There is no fosse; so that if a breach were once made, a daring enemy would have no difficulty in entering the city. '^ The ground for a considerable distance to the south-west of the city of Quebec is called The Plains of Abraham, famous for the battle in which General Wolfe beat the French. These plains are nearly on a level with the fortifications, and widen as you retire from them, to the extent of from one to two miles, preserving the level nearly throughout, but sloping a little both ways, particularly towards the river St. Charles on the north. On the side towards the St. Lawrence the bank is of great height; almost perpendicular, and generally cover- ed with wood where the slope will admit of it, which is not always the case. Not- withstanding the difficulty of ascent, Ge- neral Wolfe, with infinite labour, contrived to carry his little army, and a few small field pieces, to the top of the bank, and took his stand on the piains of Abraham. The French were astonished, on looking out in the morning, to find him there; they came out of the city and gave him battle. He beat them, and followed them close up to the walls of the town. It was very unaccountable that the French should resolve to come out of a strong fortification (where they might long have resisted the assailants) and put them- selves on a footing with their enemies. Besides the troops in the city of Quebec, the French had ten thousand men encamp- ed at Beauport, within a few miles of Que- bec. If an arrangement had taken place v/ith those troops, that they should attack Wolfe at the moment the garrison sallied forth, his little army must have been cut to pieces. 1 o this error we owe Quebec*. * They were less to blame, perhaps, than General in 64 The French general Montcahn, as well as the brave Wolfe, fell in the engagement; very different however must have been their feelings in their last moments. The con- duct of the Frenchman in rashly sacrificing his troops and the interests of his country could not bear reflection. Wolfe saw his troops triumphant; they had beaten the enemy : he died in the arms of victory. How sleep the brave, who sink to rest, By all their country's wishes blest ! When Spring, with dewy fingers cold. Returns to deck their hallowed mould } She then shall dress a sweeter sod. Than Fancy's feet have ever trod. By fairy hands their knell is rung, ' By forms unseen their dirge is sung. , There, Honour comes, a pilgrim grey, . , To bless the mould that wraps their clay : And Freedom shall awhile repair To dwell a weeping hermit there. I have been on the spot where Wolfe Murray afterwards was, who, notwithstanding the exam- ple of the French having suffered by it, left the fortifica- tions, went out on the plain in the face of a superior army, under the command of the French general Mr. Levi. He was beaten, and obliged to retreat to the city with the loss of his artillerv and near a third of his armv. 65. fell, and a stone is shewn on which it is said he was laid. It is very much mutilat- ed, from the curiosity of strangers who wish to carry off a bit of it, as a kind of relic. One cannot help feeling a good deal inte- rested in traversing a field of battle; — the glory which we attach to the death of the hero who falls in his country's cause, sanc- tifies the ground on which he fell. The upper town of Quebec being on a very elevated situation, enjoys fine air, and a commanding view of the surrounding country, which affords the most sublime scenery in nature. I have seen most of the fine views in Europe; and 1 can safely say, they do not surpass, perhaps they do not equal, that from the flagstaff of Que- bec on Cape Diamond. The majestic St. Lawrence under your feet, receiving the waters of the river St. Charles, and forming the bason of Quebec, from three to four miles across ; — further on you see the river dividing itself into two branches, forming the beautiful island of Orleans: — on the opposite side of the great river, a finely wooded country, terminating at Point Levi, conceals the course and bed ■t!l i 66 of one of the branches of the river,— the island of Orleans, the falls of Montmoren- cy, strike the observer ; and the villages of Beau port, Charlebourg, and Lorette, ap- pear at a distance, and render the woods in which they are embosomed more interest- ing. The eye follows the northern branch of the St. Lawrence till it is lost amongst the distant mountains. To the southward you look over a level country for upwards of sixty miles, till the view is bounded b^ mountains. This extensive tract is still in a great measure in a state of nature ; — no- thing to be seen but the stately forest in all its majesty. Amongst the fine views which I have beheld with delight, and which combine in them objects sufficiently b.. iking to entitle them to be compared with the view from Quebec, I recollect that from the Rock of Gibraltar, — from the pass of Bellegarde in the Pyrenees, — from the Place de Feru at Montpellier, — from Kingsweston near Bris- tol, — from Edinburgh Castle, — from Cintra near Lisbon,— and from many other places which I could mention; but the view from Quebec is etjual to any of them, perhaps I 67 might even venture to say, that it surpasses them all. It is difficuU to imagine a more happy blending of art and natuie;— vil- lages, country houses, cottages, corn fields, -—are combined with primeval woods, fine rivers, beautiful islands, magnificent water- falls, towering hills, and lofty mountains. From the scenery which surrounds Cape Diamond let me return to the Cape itself. — I had heard that Cape Diamond, and the country in the neighbourhood of Que- bec, abounded with marble. 1 am no great mineralogist; but, from every thing 1 can observe (and I have taken some pains to examine), I do not find any species of cal- careous rock in the whole extent of the ridge, from Cape Diamond to Cape Rouge, What generally prevails, is a coarse incom- plete sort of scliistus, the laminae of which, when exposed to the operation of the at- mosphere, moulder into a dark brown co- loured earth; it never can be used for building to any advantage, unless it is de- fended from the action of the air. Cape Diamond abounds witli very fine specimens of quartz, or rock crystals. — I have myself, in waikiiig on the banks of ■ '■■ 'f 1 111^ 68 the river at the foot of the rocks, found many of them. They are discovered from the brilliancy of their reflecting surfaces:— they sparkle like the diamond;— and hence the place had its name. On examination, I have generally found that they are pen- tagons, terminating in a point, and possess- ing naturally much of the brilliancy and polish of a cut diamond ; and they are so hard, that like a diamond they cut glass. 69 LETTER VII. Quebec, August, 1806. I FORMERLY obscrved to you, that Que- bec seems admirably situated to become the capital of ffrtf empfe*"€. Allow me to men- tion the circumstance!^' which induce me to think so. The uninterrupted navigable part of the St. Lawrence is of great extent,— near five hundred miles, which ic the di- stance between the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Montreal, where, are found vessels of from 3 to 400 tons burdt n. In its course it receives a number of fine rivers, which open a communication with the country on both sides. The lake Champlain, 120 miles in length, communicates with the St. Lawrence by means of the river Sorel (or Chamb/y, as it is sometimes called), and is the natural channel for the produce of the fine country surrounding this lake. Although the ship navigation ends at Montreal, another species of navigation ) 'I ) 1 i 70 commences, suitable to the waters to be navigated, and to the commodities to be transported. Bateaux, and canoes, convey to Upper Canada, and the country round the lakes, and to the north-west territories, the European commodities they want; and with the aid of scows*, floats, and rafts, carry down to Montreal fj^nd Quebec the surplus produce of t-Kesc imfnense regions, as yet of tritling amount *tis true, compared with the commerce of Euro})c; but when one reflects on the variety of climate, of soil, and of productions, which these extensive countries display; and the facility given to the transportation of goods by means of so many fine rivers and large lakes; one cannot help concluding that it is destined at some future period to be the most commercial country on earth. The river St. Lawrence must ever be the grand outlet to the ocean for the pro- ductions of all that tract of country be-^ tween the United States and Hudson's bay, including the lakes Erie, Ontario, Mi- chigan, and lake Superiorf ; and there can * These, described in another place. ■)■ Although the lakes are not immediately connected 71 be no doubt that Quebec is the key of* the river St. Lawrence. When we consider the many milUons of with the Atlantic by any other river tlian the St. Law- rence, yet there are several rivers that fall into the At- lantic, which rise so near the sources of others that run into the lakes, ahd each navigable for boats so near their sources, that by means of them, and of a very short land carriage, trade may be carried on between the Atlantic, and the lakes. There are three channels for this trade which particularly demand attention*, the first by the Mississippi and Ohio, and thence up the Wabash, Mia^^ mi, and Muskingum, from the heads of which there are portages of from 1 to 1 5 miles, to the rivers which fall into the Lake Erie : secondly, along the Patowmack river (which flows past Washington City)^ and from thence into the Cayahoga, Bigbeaver, and Yahogany, to Presque Isle, on Lake Erie: thirdly, along Hudson's River (which falls into the Atlantic at New York), and the Mohawk River, Wood Creek, Lake Oneida, and Oswego River, which falls into Lake Ontario. In the course of time there will be a competition amongst the settlers on these different routs, which sh?.ll have most of the trade of the Western territory, bet they must all yield to the St. Law- rence, which commands a decided preference, because the distance to a port where vessels from the ocean can load, is shorter than by any x)f the other routs, and the portages are not so long *, and besides, during the summer months, the rivers in the United States have so little water near their sources, that the length of the portages must be greatly increased. In the St. Lawrence they are always the same. It i ti ^J IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4^ 4^ ^ 1.0 ^lii Ui itt |2ii g2.2 i:; u HI 140 ll'-25 »i^ 1^ ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation ^\^ \ ^v :\ \ ^. y.'^* - V ^-V ;\ 33 WIST MAIN STMET WfBSTEIt,N.Y. 14SM (716)t/2-4503 Il ' 72 acres which communicate with this river and surround the']akes, where, at present you have only thei stately pine, the hardy oak, and many other tenants of the forest; and where in course of time will be seen the golden harvest, the lowing herd, the bleating flock, sCnd the sons and daughters of industry and innocence; — the heart ex- pands with secret pleasure, and tastes in anticipation, the happiness in reserve for posterity. Man in civilized society is naturally a commercial animal; he is seldom satisfied with what he possesses; he must be chang- ing one thing for another; he is prompted to it by his wants, and when he can find in any one place such things as he may desire to have, thither he resorts. This formerly gave birth to fairs ; and it has made some cities perpetual fairs. It has made Lon- don the first city in the world ; and it will continue Quebec as the first city in^ the Canadas; perhaps it may become the first It is worthy of notice that a person may go from Quebtc to New Orleans, at the m«tith of the Mississippi, by, water the whole way^ except about the space of one fnile from the source of the Ilinois river, to the source of ;i river which £UIs into jLake Michigan. 73 in America, for it has a much more exten- sive communication with the interior of America than the new city of Washington or any other city of America. Neither the Patowmac, Chesapeake, Delaware, nor Hudson's viver, are at all to be compared to the St. Lawrence, either in magnitude or extent of back country. Quebec is already considerably extend- ed beyond the walls: there may in time be as much difficulty in finding out the old walls and old city of Quebec, as there is in finding the bounds of the old city of* London. I fancy I hear people proposing to take a walk to the west end of the town, or to Wolf t* 8 Square, in the centre of which may be placed his statue, where Wolfe*$ stone now lies. The river St. Charles, which at present covers unnecessarily a great deal of ground, may be confined to a narrow channel, and will be a fine situation for extending the Lower Town as far as Beau- port. Wharfs and quays' will of course arise : the situation is excellent for dry and wet docks ; and warehouses without number may be eligibly situated. I believe the French had this in contemplation, and even % ;■ r" i:: ■ l f , L.-lL. .: il went so far as to make a plan of it. Long before these things take place, Canada may possibly be no longer a British colony : to this subject I shall direct your attention in my next letter. ill ::i^i I ;'f '11 fl! w '*1 ;' ■ I- '■' LETTER VIII. Quebec, jiugiut, 1800. Allow me to make a few observations on the treatment the Canadians have expe- rienced since the conquest. The length of time Canada may con- tinue under the dominion of Britaia* will depend very much on the manner in which the country is governed, and the kind of policy observed towards the inhabitants. It is a subject which is even now discussed every day, and I find that there is a great difference of opinion about it. We lost the United States by an impo- litic course of treatmrnt, and it behoves us to look well to the Canadas. Some people pretend to say that we are better without America, and very ingenious arguments have been brought forward to prove it. One thing we may be assured of is, that the arguments will be favourably received: we are very glad to find palliatives for evils yfe cannot remedy. I suppose no one will I It i ^■-u. l :4 ! li:: If. i Hi ),l 78 pretend to say that the loss of our North American colonies, and consequently of our Newfoundland trade, would not be a very serious evil to Great Britain. Al- though self-interest and the power of cus- tom might iuduce the people to continue their trade with us, and our Customhouse books might shew higher exports than while they were under our doniiruon, still if we depended on ihem for any aiticlos of the first -necessity ; — party spiiit, caprice, or fo- reign influence, might firodnce a non-im- portation act, or an embargo, nay they might even refuse bread and water to our men of war; — injuries to which we never would be liable, were wc masters of the country. It appears to nie to be decidedly the interest of Great Britahi to rttaiu the dominion of her North An erican c(l^l)^ies, even though her doing so should retard their progress in population, in arts, and in com* merce. Their individual interests ought to yield to those of the mother country, the head of the empire. Canada, and Canadians, differ very ma- terially from the ci-devant British colonies in America and their inhabitaiits. These i, i .,>(, r'l 77 were englishmen, — descended from men who had the highest notions of civil and religious liberty, and they inherited the temper and sentiments of their ancestors; — they were impatient under what they con- ceived to be the tyranny of government, and they brought about the revolution. The Canadianf are legitimate Frenchmen,-^ the descendanta of the worshippers of Louis the Fourteenth and of Cardinal Richelieu, —the descendants of men who never once formed an idea, themselves, of the nature of civil and religious liberty, and who, of course, would not be likely to impress it on the minds of. their children. The authori- tative mandates of the French king have never sounded in their ears in vain; — they were issued with all the aiTogance of des- potism, and received with implicit and passive obedience. Fiven now, to reason with the great bulk of the Canadians on the measures x>f government, is what they never look for; they have no idea of ques- tioning their propriety ;— command them au nom du Roi, and you will be obeyed. The government of Britain have thought fit to give to Canada a constitution upon 1. 1 Y. I 1 1 ir m : 1 1 IB the same principles as her own ; and have given to the Canadians tlie right of elect- ' ing, and being xlected members of tlie legislature. Ho^ far it has been wise so to di>, appears at least problematical. That which is a positive good in certain circumstances, may be a |K)sitive evil in others. Is it clear, that the British form of government is fitted for Canada, and that the Canadians are in a state to be benefit- ed by being allowed a share in the govern- ment? Does their knowledge, their educa- tion, the whole train and direction of their ideas, prejudices, and passions, fit them for being legislators f 1 suspect that the answer must be in the negative. How can those men attain a knowledc^e of the principles of government, and pf civil and religious liberty, who can neither read nor write, which is the case with the great mass of the people, and how- ever strange it may appear, is the case mth many of the members of the House of Assembly, This must seem incredible, but is however strictly true ; and is of itself a most convincing proof that it was too soon to give them a share in the government. 79 The state of the country is so low as to arts and letters, that it is impossible to find in the counties, and even sometimes in the towns, men, who in any respect are capable of taking a part in the legislature. Let knowledge be more generally spread through the country; let the people be taught to read and to reason, whicb En- glishmen had long been habituated to be- fore they received their constitution, and then, and not till then, ought tlicy to ha^ ^ a voice in the deliberations of govcrnmenv I do not deny that some of the Canadians are qualified from their education and ge- neral knowledge to take a part in state affairs, but it is the case with very few of them ; and to pretend to find in the counties in general, fit men to represent them, is altogether out of the question. The coun- ties are large districts, thinly inhabited, and generally ■ ^' people who cannot leave their families without great injury to their private interests. In fact, more than one half of the members of the House of As- sembly are merchants, shopkeepers, law- yers, and notaries public, living in Quebec and Montreal. The House of Assembly ll ;l- %.. r I: 80 consists of fifly members, and I will ven- ture to say, that taking away seven or eight of them, whom I could name, the business of the House could not go on at all, such is the incapacity of the rest. Would not a council, including these seven or eight mem- bers, answer every purpose of a House of Assembly ? Nay, be more consonant to the feelings and prejudices of the majority of the Canadians, and to the state of the pro- vince both in a civil and military point of view. I may be told that it is now too late, the Canadians having tasted the sweets of power* It is an observation as true as it is common, that it is never too late to do well. It is to be hoped, and presumed, that the House of Assembly will not in any material point thwart the intentions of the execu- tive, or act contra/y to the interest of Great Britain. If they did, I should think it by no means too late for the governor to dissolve them never to meet again, except to be instantly dissolved, which it is in his power to do. It would be doing many of them no great injury to transplant them to their corn fields, or country shops, instead # ' I 81 of allowing them to sit in a House of As- sembly where they are mere cyphers, or, at best, tools to a few designing men. The Canadians themselves seem to have felt their incapacity to act as legislators, for they opposed as much as they could the introduction of the present form of government. It was brought about by the English residents in Queber and Montreal; but from some mismanagement at home they were completely outwitted. If Up- per and Lower Canada had had but one house of assembly, the English party would have always kept the majority. But Canada was divided into two provin- ces ; and as the French Canadians in Lower Canada greatly outnumber the English, they have completely the ascendency in the House of Assembly ;— a thing never dream- ed of by those who promoted the introduc- tion of the present form of government. The Canadians find that the government of the country is virtually placed in their hands ; the English Cannot carry a single point if they choose to oppose them ; and is it to be expected that a constitution founded ii,»% ^; . , ,».— . ill 82 on the purest principles of civil and re- ligious liberty, can be supported, explain- ed) and acted upon, by men, who are as ignorant of such principles, as they are deficient in general knowledge ? The division of Canada into two provin- ces, with separate and independent go- vernments, was certainly approved of by Mr. Pitt, though it did not originate with him:— the present lord Grenville I have un- derstood was instrumental in bringing it about. It appears contrary to principles which Mr. Pitt afterwards applied to an- other pari of the empire. He maintained, and all mankind must allow that union gives strength and vigour; by the union of Scotland and Ireland with England, the strength of the whole is generally allowed to be increased. The same principle will apply to the Canadas. They should not have separate legislatures, be- cause it will in time engender separate interests, real or supposed ; and produce a jarring in their co-operation for the general good of the colony, and in promoting the interests of the mother country. 83 It does not appear attended with much difficulty, even now, to unite the two houses of assembly, as the Irish was to the English Parliament. Let the governor of Upper Canada be in civil, as he now is in mi- litary matters, subordinate. The officers of the crown, and the judges, (as in Scot- land and Ireland), might continue to act, each for their own district, under such new regulations as might seem expedient. The laws and language of Upper and Lower Canada being diiTerent, need be no objec- tion. The same thing existd between the highlands of Scotland and England, though the same legislature serves both. An union of the two governments seems the only line of policy which can ensure to Englishmen that weight in the country which is highly expedient,not only for their own safety and convenience, but for the good of the pro- vince, and the interests of Great Britain. If Canada is to have a representative go- vernment (which I by no means think ne- cessary), the whole province should have but one legislature, and one head. The British government have in more ; . i pi. if.'; 1 1 iii r r 1 ■ ■ 1 :fP'j iik I L 84 cases than one, acted unwisely, in my humble opinion, in these matters.— There can be Httle doubt that the kind of go- yernment to be given to a conquered country ought to be fitted for the people to be governed, regard being had to their previous habits, and the general state of society. The English conquered Corsica, for in- stance, and took it into their heads to give the Corsicans a British constitution. Of all the islanders in the Mediterranean the Corsicans are the most savage, and were the least accustomed to think for them- selves in matters of government. What was the consequence ? Lord Minto, the first \ ceroy, could tell you. Their savage mam <;rs could not be moulded so as to make them fit for deliberating in council. Like :he Canadian members of parliament, mar f of them could neither read nor write. Sur 1 men cannot appreciate the value of a free constitution. The English are so fond of their consitution, that they think it is only necessary to shew it to all the world, and it must be accepted with joy. .i '., 85 This way of thinking will naturally enough be adopted by those who have studied po- litics in their closet, and have never been out of England ; — but, by those who have visited foreign countries, who have con- templated man in a state of ignorance and superstition, very different conclusions, I venture to say, will be drawn. The Eng- lish consitution is, I imagine, too complex a machine to be at once understood, adopt- ed, and put in motion, by a simple and uninformed people, who have not been ac- customed to political disquisitions, and ab- stract reasoning. We ought to recollect, that even in England, a nation ever forward in its advances to refinement, it was only by degrees that a free constitution was in- troduced, — the country for many centuries being in a state of probation, as it were. The seeds of liberty, which, in one reign, were sown and began to shoot out, were in the next, trodden under foot and destroyed. Rational and genuine freedom is not the child of theory, it would appear ; it can- not, like a book, be taken up and laid down at pleasure. 1; 1 it li'' V ' I \l ' IJ* , ',t! m 86 A truce, however, for the present, to po- litical discussions. I am going with a party to see the Falls in this neighbourhood. The Fall of Chaudiere is, I am told, very grand; and the Fall of Montmorency, will, I doubt not, give as much pleasure, on a near view, as we are led to expect from its grand ap- pearance at a distance. r I ■jii H ii' HIM 8T LETTER IX. h'H|l>, Quebec f September, 1806. Since I last had the pleasure of writing you, I have visited not only the Fall of Chaudiere, but also the Fall of Montmo^ rency, two of the greatest natural curiosities which this country has to boast of. Neither of them is equal to the far-famed Falls of Niagara, in Upper Canada, where the St. Lawrence precipitates itself in a body over a rock about 160 feet of perpendicular height; but they are both possessed of beauties peculiar to themselves, which render them highly deserving the attention of the lovers of the sublime and beautiful. The river Chaudierc falls into the St. Lawrence, about five miles above Quebec, on the opposite side. When a visit to it is in contemplation, a boat must be procured, for which you must be indebted to some of your friends, as there are none for hire : and you must carry meat and drink with you, (if you intend to eat) — a thing never to i '. aril «u^i pi; ; !•.. V. ! 81'" '.! be neglected when a jaunt into the country is proposed. A cockney steps into a post- chaise when he makes an excursion from London, — drives twenty miles into the cou n- try to some favourite spot, — orders dinner at the inn,-— takes his amusement, and returns when he feels an inclination. In all this business, he is a very passive kind of animal. Now, herCi if you wish to go into the coun- try, you must literally be active; — ^you must study the tides, procure boats and men to manage them, carry your dinner and drink with you, act the part of cook yourself fre- quently ; — all this, however, serves, I think, to make these little excarsions the more amusing. We went up the St. Lawrence with the tide and a strong- breeze, and landed in the mouth of the Chaudiere. It is so full of rocks and rapids that you cannot sail up it; and the banks are so steep and full of wood that they admit of no path to the fall. It is situated about three miles from where the Chaudiere joins the St. Lawrence ; and it is necessary to make a circuit of a few miles in order to get to it. Part of our way was easy enough, as there ■ .1 i,. '-J I i ■ 89 , is a road cut through the wood; but the greater part is very difficult, as you are obliged to find your way through a wood wliere there is no road, nor any visible path to direct you, — at least that I could discern. However, some of the party had been there before; and were, besides, some- what acquainted with the art of travelling in a wood. It is surprising what new light experi- ence throws on this way of travelling. An Indian or a Canadian voyageur, will dis- cern a path or tract where others have passed, and follow it for many days, where you and I never would have imagined a human being had passed before. Those accustomed to travelling in the woods ac- quire a dexterity in discovering footsteps, truly surprising. The fallen leaves, where 1 could discover no vestige, shew, to an ex- perienced traveller, infallible marks of it. They are frequently aided by the under- w6od in finding the route already taken ;— a branch broken in a certain manner, or, the branches twisted, or put into unnatural situations, indicate that some one had passed that way. By their acuteness in til' I vi^ Il 90 these matters, the Indians follow either foes or friends through extensive forests with as much certainty as the fox-hound follows the fox. If they expect to be fol- lowed by their frieiKis, they leave certain unequivocal marks behind them. They break the underwood at every step in a par- ticular mannc^r, and notch the trees as they pass along. If an Indian or Canadian voyageur wishes to make a journey to any particular place, to which there is no known tract ; — he goes into the woods without the smallest dread ; he makes a straight course, and will, after many days journey, reach his destination, without a compass, through woods that perhaps never before had been trodden by the foot of man. They tell you, that by narrowly observing the trees, they discover certain marks which indicate to them the points of the compass, even though the sun should be obscured by thick wea- ther. They never lose their presence of mind, as those do who are not accustomed to travellirig in the woods." For my part, had I been left alone, after penetrating into the Chaudiere wood a few miles, I doubt 1 ■!-■ ■! ■ 'ii i Ik ik 91 much whether I ever could have found my way out again. There was an instance, not long ago, of a person belonging to Quebec having lost his party who were going to see the Falls. He was never more heard of. It was sup- posed that he had wandered in the wood till his strength failed him, and that he had fallen a sacrifice to famine. This idea is confirmed from the circumstance of a hu- man skeleton having since been found in the wood. He was a strong, healthy, young man. It is very well known in this country (from a number of people having from time to time lost their way in the woods, but who accidentally found it again), that the mind undergoes a wonderful change when you find you have lost all traces of your way. A kind of delirium comes on — per- haps the effect of fear. The person is no longer capable of using his accustomed sa- gacity, and profiting from his own experi- ence. Objects which might have pointed out to him his way, are passed by unno- ticed ; he often wanders in a dircle while he supposes himself pursuing a straight line. Sometimes, after wanderijpg a whole ' I f -' ■ I / ll' '.• 9i day, he finds himself within a short dis- tance from his own house, when he thought himself many miles from it; and vice versa. ♦ A gentleman lately told me, that he went into the woods in Upper Canada with his gun, in the near neighbourhood of his own house. In pursuing his game he penetrated deeper into the wood than he had been accustomed to do, and finally lost himself. He did not know which way to go ; he persevered however, in hopes of getting to some part of the country which he knew ; he travelled the whole day with- out knowing where he was, and without the least appearance of an inhabited coun- try. Overcome with fatigue of body and distraction of mind (for he had left a wife and family at home), he sat down in de- spair. After sitting some time, he thought he discerned a house through the trees at some distance ; — ^he started up, — and made towards it. Conceive his astonishment, his joy— it was his own house: he thought him- self at least forty miles from it. In fact, he had been travelling all day in a circle, and often in places which he might have known, had his mind been tranquil, and possessing 93 its usual powers of discernment ; but these had fled, the moment he became alarmed at finding he did not know his way. I have been told many stories of this kind ; and I am the more inclined to be- lieve them from my having once experi- enced something of the same kind myself, on losing my way, and all traces of a road, upon an immense heath in Portugal. The effect, on that occasion, was more visible on my guide than myself. We had set off pretty early in the morning, — hac^ crossed a mountain, and proceeded several miles on a dreary heath, by tracts knov\rn only to the muleteers. It was in the month of No- vember ; the day was dark and gloomy, and it had rained violently all the morning. By and by, I found that my muleteer stood firm, and would not advance. I called out to him to know what was the matter; he said, we had lost our way. The rain had for a long while so beat in my face, that I had not paid much attention to the ground we were upon. I trusted to my guide. On now looking around me, I found that there was not the smallest trace of a road. *' Oh, my God !'* cries the muleteer, " we are lost — we shall perish. Meo Deos ! sO' u > 1 ; « i;.t ■ i'i M t \ i\'l ii ■'*■ ; f ? >•.•.. 94 mo8 perdidoSf Jesus! Jesus T'—Ue imme- diately began to cross himself. I knew this to be the dernier resort of a Roman catholic when in despair, and that force alone would now make him exert liimself. He would neither advance nor retreat ; he seemed to have lost his power of judging and reflecting, as well as his powers of act- ing. I was determined he should advance, and at length, by threats, and a certain de- gree of coercion, I roused liim to action. Wie did advance, and^ finally arrived at a part of the country which was inhabited. I was glad to find that we had wandered but a few miles from our way. — Let us re- turn, however, to the woods in Canada. Our party had no great difficulty in di- recting their course to the Chaudiere, Its noise at last announced its proximity. The Chaudiere would in England be considered as a river of considerable magnitude. Its banks at the fall, are highly picturesque ; they are very loftj^ and very steep, yet co- vered with stately pines of a variety of fan- tastic shapes. Scrambling along a rock, you approach the brink of 'the precipice 130 feet perpendicular, where the river throws itself into the abyss below, roaring w^ ■■' ( P5 and raging along, as if angry at being lorced from its native channel, to be lost in tlie St. Lawrence. We were much gratified with the gran- deur of the fall, and of the surrounding scenery. Looking up the river, the view is not extensive, but highly picturesque ; the lofty banks are overhung with wood, and the grey rocks, which now and then shew themselves, add to the wildness of tlie scene. The water, when not swelled b/ rain, does not fill the channel, but is seen winding round the points of rocks, and forming into currents, which, according to the quantity of water at the time, sepa- rate or join near the head of the fall, and quickening their motion as they approach the brink, are dashed into the gulf below. The view down the river is of the same wild nature as that upwards; rocks and trees, and rolling rapid streams, all confounded together: the sunbeam illumines the rising spray, mixing radiant gems with the som- bre hue of the forest. Nature, in this spot, seems just emerging from original chaos — so wild is the appearance and arrangement of every thing around you. h > ^hh 1 -■\ '■ ) n ' lilii lit .,! r 96 After having fully gratified our curio* sity, and remarked all the beauties of the place, seated on the Chaudicre rockf and moistened with the rising spray till we were dripping like so many river gods, we re- solved to retrace our steps through the wood. We did so with less difficulty than on our approach, and regained our boat with appetites worthy of some excellent beef steaks, with which we had provided ourselves. We lighted a fire on the rocks, — cooked our dinner, — made up a table in our boat, and with one accord commenced the attack. Every thing was excellent, be- cause every body was hungry, and disposed to be pleased :-— noble ingredients in all feasts and parties, from the cottagers' po- tatoes and milk, — up to ragouts and bur- gundy. After seeing the Fall of Chaudiere, my curiosity was the more strongly excited to see the Fall of Montmorency ^ more famous still than the Chaudiere, because it is seen at a distance by all who sail up the St. Lawrence. The river Montmorency falls into the St. Lawrence about nine miles below Que- '^.. 97 bee ', and it may be said, almost literally, to fallinto it, for the distance does not ap- pear to be above four or five hundred yards. The approach to it, both above and below, is very easy ; you may drive a gig to with- in a few yards of it. The Montmorency is certainly one of the finest falls in the world : it is (as I have formerly mentioned) no less than 246 feet perpendicular height. Some give the preference to the Fall of Chaudiere, because the surrounding scenery is more picturesque. For my own part, I am inclined to give the preference to the Montmorency. It is nearly as large a river as the Chaudiere, and from the great height of the fall in one undivided mass, it is more grand and striking. The banks of the river downwards soon terminate in the St. Law- rence, and are so perpendicular that trees cannot grow on them. They are, of course, not so beautiful as those of the Chaudiere ; but the magnificence, the grandeur of the fall, so occupies the attention, so fills the mind, that you do not think of looking for trees or rocks ; they would be lost in the grandeur of the principal object. This is not so much the case at the Chaudiere, tf, a ■ ■ ' } !■■'' ' r ■ 1 < 1 lii& ' uMt. ■ lUr i; tt 1 1 . "1} m. 99 turning your attention altogether from the Fall of Montmorency, you direct it up the river, the scenery is not to be surpassed any where. I have been several miks up the river, and must say I neyer saw scenery more picturesque. After viewing the fall, if you turn your attention towards the St. Lawrence and the Island of Orleans, and, following the course of the river, direct yoor view towards the lower end of the island, by €3iaieau ricki^ till you reach the mouiitain called Cap Tourmenty it must be allowed that it is dif* ficult to imagine an assemblage of objects more interesting, or better calculated tola* flame the &ncy of the poet, or gxve life to the canvas of the painter. Both tbe Montmorency and the Ghau« diere may be viewed either ftom the top or bottom of the iall. The loiter, tt is gen&» rally thought, is seen to greatest advantage from below. You are pleased and asto* nished with the ** Swteping theatre of hanging^ woods, ^ Th* incesssmt roar of headlong tuaiUuig flfOods.** The Montmorency, too, viewed from be» Iow» is truly sublime. t n 99' And full he dashes on the rocky moundsi Where thro* a shapeless breach his stream resounds } As high in air the bursting torrents flow, As deep recoiling surges foam below. Prone down the rock, the whitening sheet descends^ And viewless Echo's ear, astonishM, rends ; Dim seen thro' rising mists, and ceaseless show'rs, The hoary cavern, wide surrounding low*rs ; Still thro' the gap the struggling river toils. And still below the horrid cauldron boils. Who could imagine that this fine de* ^cription was not made at the Montmo« rency? Words cannot describe it more happily. A volume of the works of the immortal Scotch bard happened to be on my table while I was writing you, and had neariy finished my letter. I accidentally took it up, and the first thing almost that presented itself to my view was the above poetical effusion. It harmonised so well with the train of my ideas, that I transcribed it immediately, quite happy in the reflec- tion that my letter would now contain something worth reading, something to re- pay you for the trouble of getting through it. Lest I should be mistaken, however, I will not increase the evil, but for the pre- sent bid you adieu. / i;. 100 LETTER X. Queiec, March, \B(if, There is a great deal of misapprehension in Britain relative to this country. It is naturally concluded that, in a British co- lony such as Canada, a conquered coun- try, those who go\^ern and who give law to it, would be Englishmen. This, however, is by no means the case ; for though the go- vernor and some of the council are English, the French Canadians are the majority in the house of assembly; and no law can pass, if they choose to prevent it. The English (supposing the governor to exert all the influence he possesses) cannot carry one single question; and the Canadians have been in the habit of shewing, in the most undisguised manner, the power of a majority, and a determination that no bill should pass contrary to their Avishes. They carry things with a high hand ; they seem to forget that the constitution under which ti ibi tliey domineer over the English, was a free gift from Britain ; and that what an act of parliament gave, an act of parliament can take away. You will naturally imagine also, that in a British colony , the English language would be used in the house of assembly, public offices, and courts of justice. No such thing ; the French language is universally used, and the record is kept in French and in Enghsh. The Canadians will not speak English ; and Englishmen are weak enough to indulge them so far as to speak French too, which is much to their disadvantage ; for though they may speak French well enough to explain themselves in the ordi- nary affairs of life, fhey cannot, in de- bate, deliver themselves with that ease, and with the same effect as in their native lan- guage. The Canadians find that they have got the whiphand of the English, and they seem resolved to keep it, without being at all delicate as to the means. I can give an in- stance. — Near the end of the session, many of the Canadians have obtained leave of absence, in order to return to their families [■; \tw a ;. j I ii 1()2 and occupatiotts ; so that it has happened that just so many were left as would make a quorum, of whom about half were £ng« lish and half French. When the latter found that the Enghsh were likely to carry a questiciiy a Canadian has been known to step outside the bar, and there stand while another told the house that they must ad- journ for want of a quorum. The speaker did not think he had power to compel the member outside the bar to resume his place; and thus questions were put off till n de- cided majority of Canadians could attend. A French newspaper, called Le Cano" dien, has lately been edited here : the evi- dent intention of which is to raise the Ca- nadian character, and detract from diat of the English. It is natural enough for tiie Canadians to wish to appear in the most re-* spectable light possible; but they should not attempt to do so by the means they are now following. I hid heard much of Le Canadien^ and I took it up with a curiosity much excited ; but instead of finding something new, I found the translation of a letter written by General Murray to the British government i i di till' 103 forty yean Bgo» in consequence of a qnar- Tel between him and the British settlers, full of the most violent comj^nls against them. Jjet these matters foe tme or let them foe false, why should they foe forought forward iH>w? It is evident that die Canadians widi to identify the character of the mer- canlile men of the present day with that of those who were here at the time General Murray wrote his letter. Let us suppose, (without, however, admitting the fact) that every thing General Murray said was true ; that tlie English residents were at that time low foped and unprincipled, and that their conduct was such as might foe expected from such people, both General Murray and the Canadians might feel it. It was a matter the Canadians had reason to regret and to complain of; but they mi^t as w :;'.-ii! 106 Such is the progress of society in a con- quered country. It is in the natureof things that it should be so. Why then should thie Canadians, at this late period, rip up old sores, and attempt to attach to the present mercantile men of this country the charac« ter Murray gives of those who caroe here forty years ago ? It is an unworthy, insi- dious kind of conduct, as distant from jus^ tice as from truth. Le Canadien seems to commence under the influence of a very had spirit — amalignant j/)irtV of party ; — perhaps not unconnected with the views of that man whose victories and power are only equal- led by hi&.ambition, and his unquenchable hatred towards England. An idea is very generally entertained, both in Canada and in England, that the French, in their capitulations of Quebec and Montreal, stipulated for, and obtained the use of their own laws; and that we can- not now interfere in these matters. The first time I heard this idea started, was soon after my arrival in Canada. I had been » reading the articles of capitulation, and the definitive treaty with France, ceding Ca- nada; but they had left no such impression i'Pi 107 OD my mind. I had recourse to them again^ mid remained convinced that no such con« elusions could be drawn from them. The Canadians were allowed the free exercise of their religion ; and private pro* perty, personal and real, with all their rights, were to be respected ; but they are not allowed their ancient laws, or any share in the government. The only article in the capitulation of Quebec*, which applies to this point, is the second, in which it is granted, " That '* the inhabitants shall be maintained in the ** possession of their houses, goods, effects, *'* and privileges/'— In the capitulation of Montreal -f*, the 27th article stipulates, " That the free exercise of the catholic, \* apostolic, and Roman religion, shall sub- ** sist entire in such manner that all the " states, and people of the towns and coun* <* tries, places, and distant posts, shall con- ** tinue to assemble in the churches, and to " frequent the sacraments as heretofore, " without being molested in any manner, ^* directly or indirectly. These people sh^ll * Dated ^8th September, 17'59, t Dated 8tli SeptCinber, 1760. if ; iir-li' H'i :'■''' 1 - '•■ ■ f - ilf I i li i!!l' I ' III ,M i 116 mer. I have had several opportunities, be- sides the present, of verifying the observa- tion. In the countries in the south of Europe, for instance, particularly in Portugal, the laws are good in principle, but they are ill administered. The judges are very cor- rupt ; they are venal in the highest degree, which arises from their salaries being so low that they cannot support that rank in life to which they are entitled, From the gradual depreciation of money, their in- come has been constantly getting worse.-r For some time, the respectability attached to the character pf a judge would induce men pf education and property to accept of the situation j domestic oecpnppiy would enable them to preserve a respectable ap- pearance : but, in time, their situation ceases to be desirable. Men of inferior rank and education can alone be found to accept of it : bribes are oiFered, because the judges are known to be poor bpth in purse and spirit : bribes for the same rea- sons are taken : but the blame rests with thp government ; — by not applyin^a remedy to the evil, which they know to exist, the/ • ■ ?l!|. ' 117 may be supposed to wink at it : it increases every day : corruption of every sort creeps in : a bad man will not pay his debts, if by paying part to his judge he can pre- serve the rest. If an innocent man is as- saulted and wounded, or robbed, and the culprit, though condemned upon the clear- est evidence, can purchase a pardon, the principle of retributive justice is wounded and weakened:— in time it is altogether destroyed. I knew an instance in Portugal, where a formidable band of robbers had carried on a practice, for some time, of robbings and murdering in the most barbarous manner. They were, upon undoubted proof, con- victed of a variety of crimes of the deepest die; — the mere naming of which would make human nature shudder. They were condemned to death, to the number of, I believe, thirty. They consisted of inn- . keepers, muleteers, friars, younger sons of respectable families: some women, too^ were amongst them ; but they were not executed — and why ? because* they mus- tered up twelve thousand crowns, which be- ing handed over to a judge in Porto, where :i\ ,.';•■;■! : 1 ■ f : 1' ■ . -m I ■ I ■' i , ._.. I 1 '*:-';'i'. '-[ M'l: fl 1J8 they were tried, he procured their pardon. This circumstance is universally known m Portugal : it happened in the year 1802. Let me ask, what effect such a glaring act of injustice^ such abominable venality in a judge, would have on society, parti- cularly on the minds of the rising genera- tion ? It is too evident : all idea of right and wrong must be destroyed : the pas- sions must gain strength, and take the Iead» no longer kept under by early conviction, that every breach of the law will assuredly be punished : private revenge, deadly feuds, clandestine murder, become preva- lent. All these things are, in fact, frequent in Portugal, in Spain, in Italy, in Turkey, and in every other country where the sources of justice are polluted. In the feudal times in Britain, much of the same kind of proceedings were conti- nually occurring : individual caprice, and not the law, governed. Thankful ought we to be that no such abuses now exist. I have always thought there was great wis- dom and truth in the answer my Lord Mansfield gave to the King, when he was asked, at the time of the riots in Lon- i 119 don, " whether he thought the government had reason to be alarmed at the apparent' increase of licentiousness and corruption in the kingdom ?" The answer was, " that his Majesty had nothing to fear, so long as corruption was kept out of Westminster- hall" I beg pardon for taking up your time with these stories. They obtruded them- selves into notice, as illustrative of my as- sertion, that nothing debases a people so soon, or so effectually, as the maL-admini- stration of justice. In the application of the principle to Canada, I am very far from thinking that any of the judges are venal or corrupt ; on the contrary, they are very upright and in* dependent men. The criminal law of Eng- land is administered m its greatest purity ; crimes are sure of meeting the punishment attached to them : hence you seldom hear of any acts of violence. In criminal mat- ters, the abuse of justice strikes us forci- bly; but, in civil matters also, the abuse of justice has an infallible tendency* to cor- rupt the public mind-^whether it arises -;■)." W ■y ft r ,mmigi 'tl'ff i « I, « i;- 1 mim J I * '-l 120 from corruption in the judges, or from a deflect in the application of the laws, and the arrangement of the proceedings in the courts. Here it is that Canada is defective ; the courts are ill arranged ; the forms of pro- ceeding, vague and undefined. The French and English laws and forms, though good by themselves, have made a very bad mix- ture. There is, in short, something so bad in these matters, that the ends of justice * are completely defeated. In Quebec, civil justice is really laughed at. A man who pays his debts here, has greater merit than in most other countries ; he need not do it unless he thinks proper ; he has only to en- trench himself behind the forms and quib- bles of the law, and laugh at his creditors. Shame ! shame ! In the extendied state of modem commerce, bankruptcy may ensiie from unforeseen and unavoidable causes. No man would be more lenient in such cases than myself; but fraud and deceit are the same in all ages, and in all countHes;«— let them be marked and punished. If you see the fraudulent bankrupt ca^ 121 ressed and respected, while his fraudulency is notorious ; if you see that the courts of justice are no longer the terror of evil doers, and the praige and protection of those that do well, but are laughed at by knaves, without any apprehension of their being forced to do justice, or fulfil engagements which it is convenient for them to evade ; when you see that this open and avow- ed injustice is supported by the ingenuity and quibbles of lawyers, because, forsooth, they have received a fee, and must do som&r thing for it, were it even to assert things which they, and the whole court, knew to be gross falsehoods ; can there be a doubt that the public mind must be vitiated, and the security of property weakened ? In Canada there are no bankrupt laws; and you cannot arrest your debtor, unless you can swear that he is about to leave the country. « You cannot put his property in trust for the benefit of his creditors, or deprive him of the power of disposing of it. You may easily conceive what an Opening is thus given to those who are frau- dulently inclined. X If you sue him, he puts you off from ^11 rf • If- , ■ ( it : 'i Mlt-: M ' V! i: '. I > 122 term to trrm, by one quibble or another; in doing which, the lawyers here are very expert : for it seems a maxim with them, that any regard for truth is altogether an unnecessary part of their character. If they wish to gain time, some of them have been known to invent, on the spur of the occasion, the most gross falsehoods, and im- pudently pass them on the court as truths. Were it necessary to be more particular, and give an instance, I could at once do it. If the other party denies th^ truth of the assertion, a day is given to prove it : by that means a whole term, perhaps, is lost. If at last you get judgment in* the lower court, the X matter is carried to the court of appeals, where a year or two can easily be wasted : an appeal riiay then be made to the king and council. In short, one appeal follows another, till your patience, and your purse too, perhaps, are exhausted. The worst of it is, that all this time your debtor is wast- ing the money which ought to be in your pocket. Perhaps you may say, that you do not feel interested in all this, as you do not in- tend to go to law. So much the better :— * 123 but if you wish to know a people, you can- not judge of them by a better criterion than the state of their jurisprudence. With this view I have gone a little into it. If you should ever have any dealings in this coun- try, the information may be of use to you. The study of the law, however, is in all its branches proverbially a dry study. I shall therefore give you a respite. As soon as the weather is agreeable, I purpose going into the country, in different directions, that I may get some knowledge of the inhabitants, and of the state of agri- culture. I shall have the pleasure also of viewing the natural beauties of the coun- try, which are scattered every where with a liberal hand. t -^ i w lili^ 124 I '' in LETTER XI. Quebec, Sepiemb&, %Wf, I HAVE visited the greatest part of Lower Canada from Kamouraska^ a hundred miles below Quebec, as high up as Lachinct near 200 miles above it, so that I have had an opportunity of making some remarks on the Canadians, and their country; and have, besides, had a fair specimen of Ca- nadian travelling. I shall not go too much into a detailed and minute description of places, or take up your time in making you read a collec- tion of high-sounding inflated words, and technical phrases, in an attempt to paint the natural beauties of the country. Such attempts have been reproved as savouring of affectation, because, after all, they come very far short of the true end of descrip- tion — the giving a correct idea of the place described ; serving more to gratify the va- 125 nity of the writer, than to edify the reader. Travelling in Canada is certainly not altogether so pleasant as travelling in £ng« land. The Canadian calesh is a very sorry vehicle, compared to the English post' chaise ; nor are the auberges quite so com- fortable as English inns. A person who had been accustomed to travel only m Eng' land, would say, that a Canadian calesh, with its two wheels and single horse* with- out springs, and without cushions, was not fit for a Christian to be put into : and as to the auberges, or inns, that they were such filthy places, that you might lodge in a hog-sty without your olfactory nerves being more offended. I certainly must say, that there is great room for improvement, both in the form of the calesh, and the comforts and accom- modations of the inns. But I have seen worse. In order to reconcile myself to my situation, and extract as much happiness from the moment as it would admit of, I avoided comparisons with English inns and modes of travelling. I recalled to memory jSpaoish^ Portuguese, and even French inns 1^)^ * i; 1 .1 . r' 126 and conveyances : the balance was much in favour of Canada. I felt myself per- fectly comfortable, and thanked my stars that it vvas no worse. It adds greatly to the comfort of travel- ling in Canada, that you are every where treated with the greatest politeness and at- tention. This, to me, counterbalances a thousand inconveniences. Often have I felt provoked on the continent of Europe, wheuj^ after a fatiguing journey, — wet and hungry, perhaps, into the bargain,^ — stop- ping at a filthy place, they called an inn, I have looked in vain for the least civility or assistance from the people of the house ; frequently obliged to carry in my own lug- gage, and endeavour to find a place where it might be safe from the thief-like fellows about me—- the landlord, perhaps, amongst them. How different is the case in Ca- nada! A CsLuad'vdn aubergiste (landlady) the moment you stop, receives you at the door with a degree of politeness and urba- nity which is as unexpected as it is pleas- ing. Voulez vous hien. Monsieur^ avoir la complaisance d'entrer ; voila une chaise. Monsieur ; asseyez vous s'il vous plait. If r •V \ 127 they have got any thing you want, it is given at once with a good grace. If they have not, they tell you so in such a tone and manner, as to shew that they are sorry for it. Jen'enai point. Monsieur; Tensuis mortifih. You see that it is their poverty that re- fuses you, and not their will. A man must be as savage as a Goth, and as surly as a city epicure over spoiled venison, who, with such treatment, though his dinner should be indifferent, could leave the house in bad humour. The Canadian innkeeper is frequently a farmer also, or a shopkeeper. Indeed, you need never be at a loss for a house to stop at. There is not a farmer, shopkeeper, nay, nor even a seigneur, or country gen- tleman, who, on being civilly applied to for accommodation, will not give you the best bed in the house, and every accom- modation in his power. The Canadians seem to have brought the old French politeness with them to this country, and to have handed it down to $he present generation. One is more sur- \ 4}^i^ M t ' 1':' U;; ' 1 r ; irn .. 128 prised to find here courtesy and urbanity, from the little likelihood that such plants would exist, far less flourish, in the wilds of Canada. During the mohths of July and August travelling iri Canada is very uncomfortable irom the great heat of the weather. The thermometer generally shews near 80 de- grees : however, where the occasion is very urgent, the inconvenience is not so great as to prevent you. In September the heat is more moderate, and travelling becomes pleasant. From Quebec to Montreal the distance is about J 80 miles. You may either hire a calesh to go the whole way, or take a calesh from post-house to post-house. If you proceed direct, they generally make 24 jjosts ; and you get into Montreal on the morning of the third day, without travel- ling in the night time. The usual charge for posting is fifteen pence a league, which is much cheaper than posting in England. Indeed, it ought to be so, considering the nature of the vehicle, and your having only one horse ; besides, hay and corn are much '■i:i 129 cheaper here than in England, and there is no post-horse duty. In the course of the journey to Mon- treal you are now and then tempted to stop, or to go a little odt of your way, for the purpose of seeing a few places of note. You behold, every where, fine interesting scenery ; the road runs the whole way along the river St. Lawrence ; its banks and is- lands vary their appearance every hour, and keep the mind continually occupied and amused. The road differs from all others I have seen, in this, that it may be said to be al- most a continued street; one house suc- ceeds another so quickly, that I believe I may safely say there is not a mile without one. Except the town of Trois rivieres (Three rivers), you have scarcely any place that deserves the name of a town; but every parish church has a village in its neighbourhood; i d of these there are, between Quebec and Montreal, upwards of twenty. In these little villages we see the beginnings of, perhaps, large county towns; for here the parishes contain as K :^i- m n?v,L| r 130 much ground as many of the counties do in England. The quick succession of houses on this road arose from the manner in which the lands were granted. The whole course of the river on both sides, from its mouth to within about thirty miles above Montreal, was divided by the French king into a cer- tain number of seigneuries, or lordships, which were given to those who had influ- ence enough to procure them: but they were bound to concede them in certain lots, to such of the inhabitants of the country as might apply for them ; who were, at the same time, bound to settle upon the lands, and clear them of the woods ; keep open the highways, and perform certain other services. The lots ran along the course of the river, a certain number of yards in front, by so many in depth. In front they were very narrow, generally but three square acres ; however they run back into the coun- try a considerable way, generally about eighty square acres. The side of a square acre is about 70 yards. The first thing to be done was to build I J 131 a house, and open a road to communicate with their next neighbours. They then, by degrees, cleared and cultivated their land. In this way a road was made, and the coun- try cleared by tlie sides of the river, where even now the great bulk of the population of Canada, is found. The first settlers had additional reasons for clearing the lands, and settling along the course of the river. It enabled them to communicate with Que- bec easily by means of canoes ; and in winter, when the heavy snows fall, their settling near each other enabled them to keep open the communication, by uniting their efforts, which is still the case. I am told, that, after a fall of snow, one man drives his sledge to his next neigh- bour (a very difficult matter sometimes), who joins him with his cattle in going to the next, and so on, till a path is trodden sufficiently hard to bear the horses. ' The cultivated land does not extend far back in general. When the seigneurs, or lords of the manor, had granted, or, as it is called here, conceded those lots of their seigneurie, or lordship, which fronted the river, they made fresh concessions (be- W i ■■if , . ;!' '\\ kMi I '. ■ i ■ it- '.'■'. I I ; • ,1 !! *»>■ i; n;: fm 132 hind the first) of the lands which receded still furthei'. On the first grants or con" cessions there is always left a certain por- tion of wood for domestic purposes, and for fuel ; this tract of wood forms a boun- dary between the first and second conces- sion. When the soil happens to be good, or the situation to be attended with very favourable circumstances, four or [five con- cessions have taken place; and they arg now increasing in the ratio of the po- pulation. But tracts of primeval w^ood are still preserved between the different con- cessions or grants; from which circum- stance the country retains, and will long retain, a wooded wild appearance. When you meet with rivers which rpn into the St. Lawrence, you see cultivation carried up their banks much further. In- deed, it is on the banks of such rivers where the best land is generally found ; such as the river Quelle, river de Sud, river Cham- hly, river de Loup, Sec. The river Quelle has its source in moun- tains to the southward ; and it falls into the St, Lawrence near one hundred miles be- low Quebec. For several miles before it 133 joins the great river, it runs through a level and very fertile country ; and the tide flows up for a considerable way, so as to make it navigable for small vessels. This district is well cultivated, and very populous. The neighbouring parishes of Kamouraska and St. Ann's are also populous, and well cul- tivated. The configuration of this part of the country is very curious. In ^ the middle of rich plains you see a number of small hills covered with wood ; they rise like so many rocks in the ocean. On approaching and examining them narrowly, you find that they are literally bare rocks, of primitive granite, full of fissures, in which pine trees have taken root, and grown to a consider- able size so as to cover the rocks. It is probable the great river at some former pe- riod covered this part of the country, when these hills were so many islands ; and that the rich soil which now surrounds them, is a deposition from its waters. The proba- bility of this conjecture is strengthened by the circumstance, that the islands of Ka- mouraska, still insulated only at high wa- i! i . 134 ter, resemble in every respect the rocky hills surrounded by the fertile fields. The river de Sud likewise takes its rise in the mountains to the southward. It falls into the St. Lawrence at St. Thomas, after watering a beautiful and rich plain, which runs up into the country for many miles. This river is one of those which literally falls into the river St. Lawrence. This fall is not to be compared to some of the others; but still, when the river is full, it has a fine effect, as the precipice is about twenty feet. It affords excellent situations for mills, of which the lord of the manor has availed himself. I rode up the banks of this river for up- wards of twenty miles into the parish of St. Francis, and was surprised to find so much cultivation; and' that, too, in a better style than I had usually seen. Were I to choose a situation as a farmer, it would be on the banks of the river Quelle, or de Sud. I am inclined to give these situa- tions the preference, even to the country on the river de Loup, although it is near 200 miles further up the St. Lawrence, and 135 consequently further to the south ; and al- though there certainly is an extensive tract of very valuable land in that quarter, and situated, too, between Quebec and Mon- treal. The country in the neighbourhood of the river Chamhly does not yield to the others either in fertility or beauty. This river has two names ; sometimes it is called Chamhly, sometimes Sorel; places thus named being situated upon it. This river is of great value to Canada, because it has its source in Lake Champlain, from whence great quantities of valuable produce, par- ticularly ship-timber and pot-ashes, are annually introduced from the United States. Indeed, it is the only channel ac- knowledged in law for the commerce of the States with Lower Canada. Hence, at a place called St, John's, on this river, near the lake, we have established a custom- house, which takes cognizance of whatever passes to and from the United States. There is a fort at Chambly, and another at St. John's : neither of them are very for- midable ; that at Chambly is built of stone — that at St. John's of wood. We gene- '0': , ) i II 136 rally have some troops at St. John's, as it is the frontier town. The officer who com- mands the detachment generally examines those who pass either way : it is a kind of check on evil-disposed subjects, but a very ineffectual one, as experience has proved. Those who do not wish to be known, can find many ways of getting from the one country to the other without going by St. John's. The Canadians are but poor farmers.— Indeed, they are generally so, in more senses of the word than one. They are ac- cused of indolence, and an aversion to ex- periment, or the in trpduction of any changes in their ancient habits and customs, and probably with reason : — it is the characte- ristic of the peasantry of all countries.— The improvements that have taken place in Britain have not originated with the pea- santry. Commerce has introduced wealth among the middle classes of society. Gen- tlemen, who farm their own grounds, or wealthy fanners, have generally been the inventors or promoters of useful improve- ments: now, in this country, you hav<; very few men of this description. It is true 137 the land is the property of those who cul- tivate it : but their capitals are generally so limited, and their farms so small, that they cannot afford to make experiments: and when, to this, you add their total want of education, and consequent ignorance of" every thing that does not come within the scope of their own limited observation, you cease to be surprised that the country should be so badly cultivated. Some places, however, deserve to be mentioned, as exceptions to the general rule. I remarked some farms on the rivers Quelle and de Sud that would not disgrace Norfolk or Northumberland. The Canadian fanner is not sufficiently aware of the value of manures, and of ar- tificial grasses : nor does he seem to reflect, that it is more advantageous to have a small . farm of good land in high cultivation, than a large farm half laboured or neglected.— He ploughs the same field, and sows in it the same sort of grain, twenty times over; he does not think of a routine of crops, nor does he renovate the exhausted soil by the addition of manures; the only remedy he knows for land so exhausted as to yield r ilMI ^liiiiHi 138 little or no return, is, to let it lie fallow for some time. It is in vain to endeavour to convince him of his error: nothing but example will produce any good effect. — This they begin to have. Some of the far- mers are a little more enlightened than the generality of them: they have ventured to listen to reason, and to reflect upon the comparative value of different modes of treating their lands; and they begin to make innovations in their ancient systems of farming. One of the principal causes of the po- verty, not only of the Canadian farmer, but also of all ranks amongst them, is the ex- istence of an old French law, by which the property of either a father or mother is, on the death of either, equally divided amongst their children. Nothing seems more con- sonant to the clearest principles of justice than such a law; yet it assuredly is preju- dicial to society. In this country (or indeed in any other) an estate, with a good house upon it, con- venient and appropriate offices, and a good stock of cattle, may be well cultivated, and support, creditably, a numerous family.-— 139 If the head of the family dies, leaving half a dozen children, the estate and whole pro perty is divided amongst them, which hap- pens here every day. Each of the sons takes possession of his own lot, builds a house, marries, and has a family. The va- lue of the whole property is very much les- sened. He who gets the lot, with the dwell- ing-house and offices, which served for the whole estate, gets what is out of all pro- portion to the means he now has of em- ploying them : he can neither occupy them, nor keep them in repair. The other lots are generally too small to supply the ex- pences of a family, or enable their owners to support that state of respectability in the country which their father did ; so that, in- stead of one respectable and wealthy head of a family, who could protect and assist the younger branches, giving them a good education, and putting them forward in the world, you have half a dozen poor dispi- rited creatures, who have not energy or power to improve either their lands or them- selves. Without great industry, and some capital, new lands cannot be brought into u,',^ \ \ iwm V ■ irir !- ; i i; '£ 140 cultivation, nor can those already cleared be made very productive. The law alluded to might do very well in such a country as Canada for a few ge- nerations, while the new grants continued very large : but the divisions and subdivi- sions must, in time, become too minute, and be a check on the improvement of the country, in an agricultural point of view; and also, as a natural consequence, retard the increase of population. • This division of property is extremely prejudicial to the interest not only of the landholder but also to that of the merchant, shopkeeper, and mechanic. When one of the parents dies, an in- ventory is made of the property, and each child can immediately insist on the share of the property the law allov^rs. The French IsiW supposes that matrimony is a co-part- nership; and that, consequently, on the death of the wife, the children have aright to demand from their father the half of his property, as heirs to their mother. • If the wife's relations are not on good terms with the father, a thing that sometimes happens, 1 ! 141 they find it no difficult matter to induce the children to demand a portage, or division, which often occasions the total ruin of the father, because he loses credit, equal, at least, to his loss of property, and often to a greater extent. His powers are dimi- nished, and his children still have a claim on him for support. One effect of this law, and not one of the least material, is, that the affection be- tween parents and children is likely to be destroyed by it : and, in fact, it is remark- ed, that in thi» country the instances of un- feeling conduct between parents and chil- dren are extremely fiequent, and a spirit of litigation is excited amongst them. One is at a loss to account for such unnatural conduct, until an acquaintance with the laws and customs of the country gives a clue to unravel the mystery. The law, making marriage a co-part- nership, and creating a community de bien, is sanctioned by the code of French law, called Coutume de Paris, which indeed is the tea:t book of the Canadian lawyer; the wife being by marriage invested with a right to half the husband's property ; and, tm-r:. •Ml :.[:! 1 1 i;.J^kl I 'I 142 being rendered independent of him, is per- haps tlie remote cause that the fair sex have such influence in France ; and in Canada, it is well known, that a great deal of con- sequence, and even an air of superiority to the husband, is assumed by them. In ge- neral (if you will excuse a vulgar metaphor), the grey mare is the better horse, British subjects coming to this country are liable to the operation of all these Ca- nadian or French laws, in the same man- ner that the Canadians themselves are. — They are not always aware of this circum- stance ; and it has created much disturb- ance in families. A man who has made a fortune here (a thing by the bye which does not very often happen), conceives that he ought, as in England, to have the disposal of it as he thinks proper. No, says the Canadian law, you have a right to one half only ; and if your wife dies, her children, or, in case you have no children, her near- est relations may oblige you to make a partage, and give them half your proper- ty, were it a hundred thousand guineas, and they the most worthless wretches in ex- istence. Nothing can prevent this but an 143 antinuptial contract of marriage, barring the communitS de Men. From Canadian travelling I got on Ca- nadian farming : the farming led me to the farmers, and these to their laws and cus- toms. One cannot well avoid following up an association of ideas ; but it occurs to me that, having mentioned Montreal you will naturally expect me to give you some account of it, which I shall attempt to do in my next letter. i : 1 -M' i i .tw I /■ H l) ■« : M»r 'i II 144 ./ LEITER XII. Quebect 180/. Montreal is situated on an island; but the island is so large in proportion to the water which surrounds it, that you are not sensible of its insularity. A branch of the river Ottawas, which falls into the St. Lawrence above Montreal, takes a north- erly direction, and forms the island. This branch joins the St. Lawrence at Repen- tigni, where the public road from Quebec is continued by a ferry of about a mile in breadth. A little above the ferry there is an island ; on each side of which the chan- nel narrows much, and an attempt has lately been made to build a bridge across — it failed. The masses of ice which came down the river when the winter broke up, carried the bridge away. The attempt however will be renewed upon a different plan, and, it is to be hoped, will prove suc- cessful, as it would be of great utility to -.li 145 the inhabitants of the surrounding coun- try, besides very accommodating to" tra- vellers. The island is about thirty miles in length, by about ten in breadth. The city of Mon- treal is situated near the upper end of it, on the south side of the island, at the di- stance of about one hundred and eighty miles from Quebec. It lies in latitude 45-30, being about 70 miles to the south- ward of Quebec. They pretend to say, that the spring is always earlier than at Quebec by near a month, and I believe it is allow- ed to be so. One would scarcely think that so small a difference of latitude, should pro- duce such an effect ; it would not be so in Europe ; there must be some aiding cause with which we are not acquainted. Montreal was once surrounded by a wall, which served to defend it against any sudden attack from the Indians; but as this is now no longer dreaded, the wall is about to be removed, that the town may be enlarged with the greater facility. The St. Lawrence -comes close to the town on the south side, where there is a great depth ;-vi' 'I'^^-^iii r';^'i"t!i;i 146 of water, but vessels have much difficulty to get at it ; for immediately below the town there is a current, to stem which a very strong breeze is necessary ; vessels lie some- times for weeks (waiting for a wind) with- in a couple of miles of the town, without be- ing able to reach it. It is a pity the site of the town had not been chosen at the bottom in- stead of the top of the current. This cer- tainly would have been the case had the ori- ginal founders reflected for a moment what might be the future destiny of the place. Biit they were monks, whose minds were di- rected to the propagation of their religion, more than the advancement of commerce. Montreal may be said to be a handsome town. Its streets are regular and airy; and contain many handsome and commodious houses. It is fully as large and as popu- lous as Quebec, containing about 10,000 people, the great mass of whom are Cana- dians. Itssuburbs, too, are extensive. It has suffered greatly from fire at different times, and the precautions taken to prevent the spreading of c onflagration exceed f < v^n those of Quebec; for, in addition to the roofs ■' I 147 being generally covered with tinned plates, the windows haVe outside shutters, covered with plate iron. The island of Montreal is wholly in a state of cultivation ; and it is surrounded by a country generally cultivated. What adds much to its consequence is, its being situated near the embouchure of several rivers, which bring down from the coun- tries through which they flow a great deal of very valuable produce. The river Chamhly opens a communica- tion with Lake Champlain, whence are re- ceived large quantities of wood, potashes, salted provisions, wheat, &c. From the river L'Jssomption much valuable pro- duce is brought. The river of the Ottawais, which forms the northern boundary of the island, opens a communication with an im- mense extent of country. It is through this river that the traders to the northwest ter- ritories proceed. They go in birch ca- noes many hundred miles up this river, till: they meet with rivers which discharge in Lake Huron, from thence they get into Lake Superior, and so on to the Grand Portage, where they discharge the goods •Hfi: ':\IU It ' ,1 i V » I*' ^'iiil i 148 thej have taken up, and are again loaded with the furs that have been got in exchange for the preceding year's investment. They do not return by the same course, but by way of Detroit, and through Lakes Erie "and Ontario. Montreal- is at the head of fhe ship-navigation from the ocean, and the bateaux and - canoe-navigation from and to Upper Canada must commence and terminate at L a Chine near Montreal. From these circumstances Montreal bids fair to rival Quebec in commerce : — It is more convenient as a depot for produce. But as Quebec must ever be the great shipping place, there, general merchants will find many inducements to settle. Although the St. Lawrence is navigable for large vessels as high up as Montreal, yet the navigation above Quebec is at- tended with so many inconveniencies, that in general it is found more advantageous for the vessels to stop at Quebec, and for such of their cargoes as. come from Montreal, to be brought down in river craft. 4 The influence of the tide is not felt at Montreal, nor indeed for many miles be- i& 149 low it. I understand that it has been ob- served that the water at the town of -Trow rivieres, rises from the pressure of the tide : — it is about half way between Quebec and Montreal. At any rate, it cannot be sup- posed to have any effect above Lake Su Pe^cr'«,which commences about two leagues above Ttois rivieres. This lake is about twenty milles in length, and about fifteen miles in breadth. It is formed by the waters of the St. Law- rence expanding over a level country, aided by several considetable rivers, which terminate their course here; such as the. Masquinongi, De Loup, St, Francis, &c. The lake is, in general, very shallow, and in the ship channel there is not usually found more than from eleven to twelve feet water, as I have already mentioned : so that loaded vessels sometimes take the ground, and are under the necessity of being light- ened of part of their cargo, which is put into river craft, and taken in again, in deep water. Vessels of a considerable draught of water, instead of taking in their whole cargo at Montreal, take in only such part of it as they can carry across the Lake, i; f^ii •H ST' IM mm t1; 'i 150 and take the remainder below the lake from river craft which accompany them. The country in the neighbourhood of Montreal is very fine. About two miles from the town there is a very beautiful hill* commonly called the Mountain ; it is about 700 feet in height from the level of the river. A part of this hill is covered with wood, but much of it is in a state of cultivation. 1 rode to the top of it, whence you have a noble view of the surrounding country, bounded by the mountains in the state of New York towards the south. Between the Mountain and town of Montreal, there are a great many very fine gardens and orchards, abounding with a variety of fruit of the very first quality, and no place can be better supplied with vegeta- bles than Montreal. Quebec, too, is ex- tremely well supplied with vegetables, and a regular succession of fruit; but cannot vie with Montreal, where both soil and climate combine to produce the finest fruit I have ever seen. The apples are particu- larly good. — ^The Pomme de Neige, so called from its being extremely white, and from its having the granulated appearance of 151 snow, when broken ; it also dissolves, almost entirely, in the mouth like snow : the Ffi" meusCf Bourassa, and Pomme Gris, are very fine apples. Peaches, apricots and plums, are found in the greatest perfection ; and, with the protection of glass, you have grapes as good for the table as any 1 ever saw in Portugal. Currants, raspberries, gooseber- ries, and every sort of small fruit are found in great abundance. The markets of Mon- treal are extremely well supplied with all the necessaries and most of the luxuries of the table; provisions are particularly plentiful in winter, for then their industrious neighbours the Yankees bring in great quantities, such as fresh Jish, bacon, cheese, &c. The greater distance of Quebec prevents them from receiving this sort of supply from the United States ; but their own resources are copious. The orchards in the neighbourhood of Montreal produce apples, which yield as fine cyder as ever was drank. La Chine is situated about nine miles from Montreal. It is a place of considera- ble consequence, from the circumstance, mentioned before, of its being the place . t UU.: i " ! i^:: II 152 where the bateaux (flat^boitomed boats), and canal navigation commences for Up- per Canada, and for the country in the north-west. The first, go by way of Lake Ontario and Niagara ; the second, go up the Outawais river towards Lake Superior. They are under the necessrty' of com- mencing their voyage from La Chine in- stead of Montreal, because the river St. Lawrence is so rapid between Montreal and La Chine that loaded canoes cannot be forced up. I had the pleasure of seeing both an arrival and departure of canoes from and to the north-west YernVortc*.— It certainly is a curious spectacle. It is surprising to see the great quantity of goods put into one of the large birch canoes ; and it is no less surprising to think, that with such a load, and in such a vessel, they should undertake a voyage of sopie thousand miles. The canoe iCone of the most frail con- veyances you can iniagine ;— you probably liave seen the model of one. The length of the large ones is about thirty feet, the greateiit breadth about six . feet ; they be^ come gradually oiarrow towardis eax^h end, 153 ■till they terminate in a point ; the bottom is rounded, and they have no keel. A frame of thin slips of wood is formed, over which they fasten sections of the bark of the birch tree. These sections are sewed together with filaments of the roots of a tree, anfd the seams made water-tight by a species of gum, which hardens and adheres very firmly. The canoe is constructed with much ingenuity : it is extremely light, and there- fore answers the purposes for which it is intended perfectly well. The canoe is the common conveyance on the river St. Law- rence, and on the lakes : the largest, how- ever, are used by the North-west Company, for conveying goods into the Indian terri- tory, and bringing down furs. These cost about 201. The North-west Company consists of a nuniiber of merchants associated for the purposes of trading with the Indians in furs. They formed the association in the year 1784; and have carried on the trade with great spirit an J success. Those who ma- nage the concerns of the company reside in Montreal : they receive a compensation .'frP ;iM iill'l I.' m ITS', lit • .|i.t 1 154 for their trouble, besides their share of the • profits of the concern. From Montreal they send up the country large quantities of goods, to be bartered with the Indians for furs. For the conveyance of these goods, and for bringing back the furs, they have employed, generally, about fifty ca- noes, and upwards of a thousand people ; such as canoe-men (styled voyageurs), guides, clerks, &c. The capital employed in this trade, in goods alone, is, I have been told, upwards of 100,0001. The goods are made up in packages of about 80lbs. for the convenience of stow- ing, and of carrying across these places, where the loaded canoe cannot pass. In many places they meet with rapids and falls, which arrest their progress : in such cases, they unload the canoe, and carry both it and its cargo to the next canoeable water. Six men carry one of the largest canoes : its load weighs generally from four to five tons; consisting of a number of small packages, which they carry very ex- peditiously. These Canadian voyageurs are hardy, strong fellows : they have been known to carry at one time five packages, t ^** 155 weighing about 801 bs. eacli, over a portage of nine miles. The canoes, when they take their de- parture from La Chine, are loaded to with- in about six inches of the gunwale, or edge of the canoe. Instead of oars, they use paddles, which they handle with great dex- terity. They strike off, singing a song pe- culiar to themselves, called the Vbyageur Song : one man takes the lead, and all the Ovuers join in a chorus. It is extremely pleasing to see people who are toiling hard, display such marks of good humour and contentment, although they know, that for a space of more than 2000 miles their exertions must be unremitting, and their living very poor ; for, in the little space allowed in the canoe for provisions, you find none of the luxuries, and a very scanty supply of the necessaries, of litie. The song is of great use : they keep time with their paddles to its measured cadence, and, by uniting their force, increase its effect considerably. The Canadian is of a lively, gay tem- per ; well calculated for uie arduous task i, '(■ i a 'i 156 which he has to perform in his capacity of voyageur. The character of the vot/ageur resem- bles, very much that of the British sailor: he is equally rough in his manners and ap- pearance — equally thoughtless and impro- vident: he endures the greatest fatigue without complaining, and obeys implicitly the orders of the person who has charge of the canoe (his bourgeois, as he is called), without- ever pretending to question or doubt their propriety: he paddles and sings, and eats and sleeps, regardless of to-morrow. Like the jolly tar, he no sooner receives his wages than he commences a life of extravagance and debauchery. The sailor knows that money at sea can be of no use to him, and he hastens to rid him- self of his gold. The voyageuvy in like manner, knows that money is of no use in the inte- rior of America ; and he, too, hastens to get quit of his dollars. Although they act in different situations, yet their minds are ope- rated on in the same way : hence arises a resemblance of character. V From Montreal, Upper Canada is sup- 157 plied with a great variety of merchandize, which is conveyed up the river St. Lawrence in bateaux, or flat-bottomed boats, carry- ing from four to five tons. They are about forty feet in length, by six feet in breadth. The return cargo is flour, potash, wheat, peltries, &c. They commence their voy- age at Lac/line, go as high as Kingston, situated near the commencement of Lake Ontario, where the goods are put into large vessels, to be carried up to Niagara. The bateaux take in a return cargo, and get into Lachine after ten or twelve days ab- sence. The distance from Lachine to Kingston is about 200 miles. The government have stores at La- chine for the reception of a variety of dif- ferent sorts of goods, of which they think proper to make presents to the Indians. Yo 1 probably expect that I should give vou some account of the Indians. Doubt- less I have seen hundreds of them ; but those were such miserable-looking, disgust- ing creatures, that I do not undertake the task of describing them with any degree of pleasure. Indians of different nations, and from i f \ i ; ' i ii|[ ''I it •j',\ 158 different parts of America connected with Canada, come annually to Quebec, to Montreal, and to other military posts, to receive the presents which the government annually distribute amongst them. Those who come to Quebec encamp at a little distance from the town, on the banks of the St. Lawrence ; and I took the earliest opportunity to go and see them, gratifying a curiosity so natural to Europeans. Conceive to yourself a parcel of men, women, and children, huddled together under a wigwam, formed of pieces of wood, seven or eight feet in length, the ends fixed in the ground, and meeting at the top, form a kind of sloping frame, which is covered with the bark of the birch-tree, to keep out the inclemencies of the wea- ther — a very poor covering indeed. They are half naked, wholly covered with dirt, and oily paints, and swarming with vermin ; diminutive, and weakly in their persons and appearance ; and having a physiognomy, in which you look in vain for traces of intel- ligence. I do not mean to say that they are without the reasoning faculty, hut they cer- tainly appear excessively stupid. I under- 159 stand that their numbers decrease every year, — if they were wholly extinct, I do not think that human nature would be a great sufferer by it. If you wish to see a very pretty story about the dignity of the Indian, you have only to consult Raynal, who says a great deal more for them than dame na- ture warrants. Their stupid apathy and indifference about the objects of civilized society is called noble independence of spirit. To the same source is traced their adopting a wandering life, with all its pri- vations and hardships, in preference to a fixed abode, and the culture of the, ground. Frequent attempts have been made to do- mesticate them, by taking them when young children into European families, and treating them with every attention. It is surprising, however, that there is no in- stance of succeeding in the attempt, or of their learning any occupation and be- coming members of civilized society. Two Indians were in England not long since. They had been employed as com- mon voyageurs in the northwest trade, and had learned a little English. — They found means to get to England by way of New !;!•:].! K Mm, \ ' i' : i' M' |i|v: M 160 York, and represented themselves to be Indian princes, come to make a represen- tation to government. They were treated in the handsomest manner, — lodged in a hotel in London, and all their expences paid. They returned here lately, genteelly dressed, a la mode Angloise, but in a very short time the^ betook themselves to the woods, adopting the Indian dress and ha- bits; one would naturally have thought, that after visiting London, and having ex- perienced the comforts of civilized life, they would not have so soon assumed their ancient habits ; perhaps, there is some- thing in the nature of the Indian, which tells him that a forest is his piroper home, and hunting his fellow tenants of the wood, his proper employment. I may be thought too severe on the In- dians, by those who have been on the banks of the rivers Missouri and Missis- sippi, or in the^north-west territories be- yond the Lakes. There, Indians are to be seen in their natural, unsophisticated state. Those that I have seen, have occasionally niixt with Europeans. They are extremely fond of strong spirits, in which both sexes f i; 161 indulge to excess, and are then guilty of the most dreadful cruelties, maiming and mur- dering their friends and relations in the most savage manner. Amongst the nations in the interior, I am informed there are found individuals who shew great powers of ratiocination ; possess many virtues ; and who want no- thing but education to be equal to Euro- peans. Whether the generality of them ought to be placed on that footing or not, appears problematical. To form a just estimate of their genius and mental powers, more facts are wanting; a few instances of individual pre-eminence are not enough. Great allowance must, no doubt, be made for the circumstance that their situation in life calls for the display of only a particu- lar kind of talents ; and to those naturally will the force of their mental powers be di- rected. Of their bravery in war, there are many proofs ; as also of their ingenuity and dexterity in the chace. The whole powi r» of their mind have been directed to thes>'4 objects. Letters have not been introduced amongst them; and reading promotes re- flection. It gives to the mind a new kind •ii;. iH I I '^1 il m Il l62 of existence ; it strengthens and enlargef the power of its operations. Whether nature has put the American Indian on the same footing, in every respect, with the European, as to mental powers, is not to be ascertained in the present day : we want facts from which to judge.— Among all other animals, we see certain classes or species of the same genus superior one to the other. The Author of Nature has willed it so. It is possible that the Au- thor of Nature may also have made varie- ties in the human race, differing from each other in their powers both of body and mind ; and that the American Indian, the African, and the European, are illusira- tions of the fact. The commerce of the river St. Lawrence differs as much from that of the European countries, as the appearance of Canada does from that of the countries in Europe. From what I have said in my different com- munications to you on these subjects, as well as on the political state of the coun- try, I trust I have enabled you to form a general idea of them. Many subjects of importance require yet to be illustrated. 1^ 1 must, at greater lengthy explain to you the nature and value of the exports and im- ports of the country, its productions, ma- nufactures, &c. in order to shew you its value as a British colony. — ^These matters will tbrm the subject of my next commu- nication. rsijv I ■•< !'li: 164 ■w. LETTER XIIL 'III ' Ml Quebec, December, 1807« The navigation of the river St. Lawrence is now closed — not a vessel to be seem- like the migrating birds, they have gone in search of a milder climate ; immense masses cf ice occupy their place, and ride triumphant in the river. Canada has put on her winter clothing, she is wrapped in snow, and the rivers are bound up in ice. We have all assumed our winter dresses ; furs and flannels are substituted for nan- keens and muslins. The wharfs and quays, lately so moving a scene, are now deserted; business is at a stand. The merchant, and the variety of people employed by him, are now idle; amusements and festivity have assumed the place of the more serious and important occupations of life. The amusements of this country, particularly the winter amusements, have a distinctive character ; you would look in vain for any 16S thing of the same kind, in the temperate climes of Europe. I shall be better able to give you a description of these matters, and of the curious phenomena which the Ca- nadian winter months offer to our observa- tion, when the winter is finished. In the mean time, give me leave to send you the result of my enquiries relative to the pro- ductions and commerce of Canada, The population of Canada at the time it came into the possession of the British in 1759-60, amounted to 75600 soi^ls, as ap- penis from General Murray's report to the British government, immediately after the conquest. At that time the extensive coui^r try liow called Upper Canada w^s not inha- bit' J by any Europeans. At preseiU thp two Canadas contain at least 300,000 inhabit- ai ts; of these, Loas^erCanac^a contains about tw)-thirds. The descendants of the Old Ca- nadians constitute at least nine-tenths of the population of Lower Canada. They prp- ' fess the Roman Catholic religion, and are allowed the use of the Old Canadian, or rather French laws, agreeably to the prin- ciples laid down in the Coutume de Paris, as I have mentioned to you in a former letter. >.ir« IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^B£ m itt ttii 122 Hi Bhb Iffii Photographic Sdences Corporalion 23 WIST MAIN STMIT WmSTIR.N.Y. 14SM (716)I72-4S03 1 !■; it; 3 I ; l« Ir 1.1., ! i 166 In Upper Canada, the population amounts to about 100,000. These are all British, at least they speak English, and are governed entirely by the laws of England, both in civil and criminal mat- ters ; and in questions relative to real pro- perty, as well as in questions relative to personal property. The lands are held by the English tenures, and the courts of jus- tice are regulated agreeably to the forms of the respective courts in England. Nia- gara was formerly the capital of Upper Canada, but about twelve years ago York was laid out for a town, and the seat of government transferred to it, and it is al- ready of considerable size. From the preceding statement of the population, it is evident that the increase in Lower Canada for these last fifty years has been very great ; it has, in fact, nearly tripled. In Upper Canada the increase has been very rapid, as several years elaps- ed after the conquest before any part of Upper Canada was settled or cultivated. Thirty years ago. Upper Canada was nearly a continued forest ; — that a population of 100,000 should in that space of time accu-» Ynulatc, is a proof that the country and 7| ;t 167 climate are propitious. * Indeed, it is ge- nerally allowed, that the climate of Upper Canpida and its soil are superior to those of Lower Canada. The country is in general more level and low than the neighbourhood of Que- bec and Montreal. The waters of the im- mense lakes have perhaps narrowed their beds, and left the surrounding country dry, at a later period than has been the case in Lower Canada, where hills and mountains and rapid rivers abound, and where the nutritious parts of the soil may have been carried off. 'J he climate of Upper Canada is temperate, ond irienrUy to vegetation. The warmth of the air will facilitate the decomposition of all vegetable and animal matter, which may be in a state of decay, and in the course of time an accumulation of soil will take place. When the forests are cleared away, and the plough and har- row have performed their functions, the same causes which promoted the growth of the large hardy oak, the stately pine, and the matted thicket, will raise fine crops of wheat, and luxuriant artificial grasses. In all new countries, such aa the Cana- das, population must increase much faster Ml I 'fv ■If •-1 - - ' !' •' ,1 ! ,1 , ■' ' ' ' '■ ''i ■' ['Vt:- ill oMH iiilM'; 168 than in old countries, because the produc- tion of food for man is much easier ; and as their situation precludes the possibility of their indulging in what are called the luxuries of life, their principal occupation will naturally be the production of food. They will clear their lands of wood, — they will sow and reap; next year more will be cleared, sown, and reaped, until the grain, &c. produced exceed the wants of the fa- mily. The surplus becomes an object of merchandize. Their disposable capital in- creases ; and it is employed either in in- creasing production by cultivating more land, or in ameliorating what is already produced. Mills are erected; wheat con- verted into flour; flour into biscuit; cat- tle are fattened and prepared for market. This accumulation of the real wealth of a country is the natural cause of an increase of population. Besides the operation of this cause, the Canadas owe much of their increase of po- pulation to emigrations from the United States of America, and from Europe. These emigrations, to a greater or less ex- tent, take place every year. The emigrants generally prefer settling in Upper, rather the |po- ted )e. ;x- its ler 16*9 than in Lower Canada, as well those from the United States, as those from Europe, Tnere are many reasons tor the preference given to Upper Canada. The soil and cli- mate are better ; and lands are cheaper, and more easily procured : the tenures are bet- ter unckTstood, and better liked than the French tenures in Lower Canada. The great mass of the people speak English, and have English habits, neither of which are to be found in Lower Canada. In case of a dispute with your neighbour, the cause is tried in an English court of justice, and in a language you understand ; which is not the case in Lower Canada. In short, these causes will continue to draw to Up- per Canada a great augmentation to the natural increase of the population and wealth — whilst the Canadian French popu- lation will only increase in the ordinary raiio. In proportion to the increase of popu- lation, is the demand for manufactures, and for articles of foreign importation. The '.n- crease of industry and wealth gives a greater fund to pay for th^ productions of other countries. That this has been the case in Pfrf ♦ ft -I, iih i j , 'i; 1 > 4 m 1 . ' I ■ill i %i t 1 170 Canada, is* clearly proved by the gradual increase of her foreign trade. Great Britain is at a considerable regu-* lar expence in supporting the garrisons and military establishment of Canada, — be- sides the value of the presents given annu- allv to the Indians, and the amount of the salaries of a variety of people employed in what is called the Indian department, consisting of superintendants, inspectors, agents, &;c. The goods given to the Indians annually are of considerable value, and consist of clothes, muskets, powder and ball, trinkets, hardware, &c.— Yet Canada is well deserving the pains and cost neces- sary to preserve it. She consumes our ma- nufactures to a considerable amount, as I shall shew you presently ; she gives em- ployment annually to about 200 sail of merchantmen, and about fourteen hundred seamen ; she furnishes Newfoundland with supplies of flour, bread, &c.— and she sup- plies our West India islands with a consi- derable quantity of lumber, staves, punch- eon-packs, hoops, horses, and salt-fish of a variety of kinds. She supplies Great Britain with wheat occasionally ; and, what ^i p- Isi- Ih- of at lat 171 is likely to be of great importance, the fo- rests of Canada will be found equal to supplying the dockyards with masts and yards for the largest men of war in the navy, and, indeed, for vessels of all sorts, to almost any amount; besides a great abundance of oak, and other ship-timl3er of a variety of species. Our coopers, too, may be supplied with staves to any amount* and of as good quality as usually come from Hamburgh, Stettin, and Dantzig. This cannot fail to be of great conse- quence, when we happen to be excluded from the Russian dominions, and from the Baltic ports, which the capricious con- duct of the Emperor of Russia gives too much reason to fear may sometimes be the ;case. The quantity of wheat, flour, and bis- cuit, annually exported from Canada is very considerable : but the crops are pre- carious, and the quantity as yet not suffi- cient to ensure to tlie mother country a re- gular supply. The following statement of exports will shew what a variety of articles Canada pro- duces. I have taken tlie iiverage o^ Jive yearSp ending 1805, ) ' I H ," ■ ! n !M fi^HU 173 -i :i*t 1 'f i ,1 : 4 w . i .1. f- .:.■-, ' ! 'i' ». d. Wheat 945499 buihcis ... 6 6 Flour ..... 19822 baireli • . • ■ 42 6 Biscuit ..... 21777 quintals, or CHt. - 25— Pease ..... 92()6 bushel* ... A 6 Oats ...... 236C ditto .... 2._ Barley ..... 4301 ditto .... 3 — Indian corn- ... 9^2 ditto .... 46 Berf .... . Vl\5 barrels .... 60— Ditto 459 tierces .... 90-— Pork 1286 barrels ... 90— Codfish 1704 quintals - . .17 6 O.tk ...... 3534 pieces .... 40 — I^iiie 1190 ditto ... .35— Sta\cs 840124 at 251. per 1200 . . Stave ends, &o. . • 9205 at 101. per ditto > > Pine boardii and planks 80014 at 60b. per hundred • Oak plank .... 796 at 20s. each ... Handspikes. ... 12537 at 7$ 6d per dozen Oars ...... 544 at 6s a pair ... Masts ..... 134 at 201. each ... Spars ..... 144 ...--. Jo— > West India hoops . . 91290 at 61. per thousand Shingles- .... 312G2 at lOs per thousand - Madeira pipe packs - 1908 at 15s ..... Puncheon ditto .. 627 126 Tierce ditto ... 536 -.-.--76 Essence Spruce - . 39 boxes ... 10— Ditto .'---.. 34 hogsheads at 251. - . Pot and pearl ashes . 22084 cwt. - . . . 47 6 Linseed ..... 5675 bushels - - - S 6 Seal skins - - - . 3i26 3 6 Castorum " - - - - 2753 lbs. .... 8— Horses ..... ItiO at 201. ..... Sarsaparilla - ... 16300 lbs. .... 2..- Tallow ..... 20 barrels ... SO— Butter ..... 199 firkins - > > 80-^ Soap and candles . . 1576 boxes ... 60— Salmon . . - • B 6^0 ti'jrces - . 65— Currenoy. c •• 1 12887 9 42123 17 372'21 5 693 3 236 12 643 3 S07 9 3735 1930 10 58U7 1491 7063 2084 17502 11 3 16 2400 8 796 391 15 81 12 S680 12 547 15 15 13 1481 396 17 201 19 10 850 52449 10 1560 12 547 1101 2000 1630 50 796 4728 1 4 1982 10 < 6 Q 8 6 4 T p 6 o D o Carried ftwwanl S99692 19 V 173 Currency. Salmon - - - - » Herringt - - - - Bast, a apecietof fish, i about size of a talmon Onions . . > • - Applet - - - - - Cranberries - - - » Snuff- - - - - - Stoves . - - - - Hops ------ Balsam - • - - - Capiilaire • • • - Beer ------ Ox and cow hides • - Horns - - - - - Hemp Brought forward 197 barrels fiUO ditto 70 ditto SO ditto 300 ditto 10 barrels 10 kegs 800 - 30 pockets 1780 lbs. - 100 lbs. 100 hogsheads 1000 2000 per dozen - 23 cwt. I. i. 45— 20— I' *' S99692 19 443 5 800 30—1 25— 25— 15— 100— 120— 100— —fid - 1— . 100— - 15— - 8— 35— 105 J. 1 5 85 375 11 50 1300 150 44 10 5 500 7S0 84 19 40 5 E^ences on 180 vessels, pilotage, port charges, &c. at ? ^^qqq q 2(M)l.each $ There are annually built at Quebec a certain number of vessels on British account, and on British capital; say about 1500 tons, at 101. per ton, exclasive of sails and rigging ... - - 15000 8 Furs and Peltries exported from Canada^/ar Britaittf on an average of three years ending 1805. Martin - - - - 23170 at 4s each Reaver - - - - 99076 averagej l|lb. each, at 14* per lb. - -J . » - 17649 at 17s 6d . . - 11637 at 2s 6d . - . 5657 at 8s 6d . - . 8636 at 12s - - 20074 at 40s - - - 223290 at 5s - - - 151710 at 28 - - - 79650 at Is 2d t, d, 9i^/ 18 8 Otter - - - Minks • • Fishers - • Foxes - - • •Bear and cub Deer - - Hacbon 4Au8k-wash Cat, cased and open 1 222 1 at 7s 6d Carried forward 33091 17 1460 17 2404 4 5181 12 40148 55822 10 15171 O 4M ■ * .; ii fl' £• : d. £. f. Jt4 Brought forward 859613 18 8 354617 3 1 Woir 6435 at Ss 8570 Bik 1039 at 10a 516 WooWereen - • - 1850 at 5i fll8 10 Hare, rabbit, ennin,) 90^2 »fc sd and iquirrel * - ) \- *t6\i 803088 19 1 Tbe expence of the military e*tabli - - 84,500 — manufactured la 4385 Pitto- - - - 71,000 — leaf 9d 8668 10 Cards- - - . 17,350 ^ packs It. 86710 804105 17 « 175 It is io be presumed that the dry goods imported, for which no duties are paid, and of which no account is kept at the custom- house, amount to the difference between the above sum and the value of the ex- ports, viz. about 563,600/. — Indeed, it is not improbable that the imports exceed the exports and remittances, for it is very well known, that many of the goods im- ported are never paid for, the importers becoming insolvent. Besides the preceding imports, goods of a variety of kinds are annually sent to Canada (as I have formerly mentioned) by the British government as a present to the Indians. When these goods are de- livered to the proper officer, bills are drawn for the amount in favour of the shipper ; but, as the province gives nothing in return for these goods, the bills drawn in pay-* ment cannot be considered as a remittance from Canada, for which the province ought to take credit. The Indians give nothing in return for which they are not amply paid. In fact, it is a present^ and like all other presents must go to the debit of profit and loss at home. Did the Indians hve a settled Ufe^ and employ themselves in agri- pf i i i ■i \ I I I'! m I ■ I > i t 3 176 culture, and in increasing the useful pro« perty of the province, the presents might be considered as a salary, and, like all other salaries and army pay, would be compensated to Britain by labour or ser- vices, and the province might take credit for the amount, because in the accomplish- ment of their duty, their salary is spent in the purchase of various articles of food, which if not consumed in that w^y might increase the ex porta tions of the province: but this is not the case. The Indian kills his game, eals the carcass, and sells the skin to the merchant, who pays him for it as nuich as if he had received no present from government. That government should continue an- nually to distribute presents to the Indians, is a measure, the expediency of which is very much doubted. They are given with tiie view of conciliating the affections of the Indian tribes, and securing them in our in- terests. It is thought that their own in- terest will teach them that we are their best friends, so long as we take their furs and peltries, and give more for them than they can get elsewhere ; when this ceases to be the case, the presents will not have great in- 177 effect. Indeed, I am well assured thtft the presents are, even now, almost thrown away^ from the circumstance of their being givca to the most unworthy part of the Indians, •—to fellows who live in the neighbourhood of Detroit and Michilimakiuack, and whom these presents keep in a state of idleness and dissipation; while the real huntersi the active Indians who furnish the furs, and are truly useful as well as furniidable, get little or nothing. They stand no chance with the Detroit or MichiUmakinack In* dians, or those in the neighbourhood of these places, whose knowledge of, and con« flexions with, the commanders and men in power, secure to them a large share of what the British government send to this country. The Micmac and other Indians that come to receive their presents at Quebec and Montreal, are too insignificant to be feared, or to be taken much into con« sideration. It certainly would be improper, nay highly unjust, to stop all atonce thet>iving presents ; but I find it is the general opinion that the thing might be done gradually; and that it would not only be a consider- yt ^b U '':'^! I \h 178 able flaying to Britain, but really, upon the whole, an advantage to the Indians not to receive presents. It would be better that they should spend their time in hunt- ing, than in coming to our military posts and destroying themselves with spirits, which they get in exchange from British subjects, for the very presents they had just received from government; so that they very often return as completely divested of their presents, as when they came out of their native forests. I have heard that some years ago very great abuses were committed by those concerned in this de- partment, who are said to have inveigled the Indians to part witl their presents for liquors, and that the ^oods were after- wards appropriated to th Ir own use, where- by large fortunes were r ade. An important part c the commerce of Canada is carried or with the United States of America, ti.. consideration of which I shall reserve for my next letter. •i'i' '' iirit -- the )tto stter iiint- 30StS lirits, ritish I just they ested e out I that were lis de- jeigled ts for after- rhere- rce of United )n of jr. 179 LETTER XIV. Qudte, December, 1807» I HAVE just returned from taking a walk, though the weather is bitter cold. You will be surprised that any one could shew their nose to it, when I shall have told you how cold it is; on that subject you shall hear from me by and by: in the mean time let me continue my mercantile disquisitions. I have to lay before you* the commercial connexions of Canada with the United States. Besides the trade which Canada carries on "with Britain and her colonies, a very considerable trade is carried on with the American states. The law acknowledges but one place in Lower Canada^ through which goods can be introduced from the United States, as I mentioned in a for- mer letter. It is by the river Cham* bly, which connects Lake Champlaia with tl^e St. Lawrence. At St. John's, on this river, tiiere is a custom-house tor the if M' . i ^ • 1. f u^ : 'y i» ll'l ■ ai 1 ;r 11 - 1 ri !:i,.! fS 180 purpose of taking cognizance of such goods as are brought in from the States. The imports by way iof St. John's in the year 1806 were as follow. Souchonff tea Hyson ikm Bohea Bjnon Ditto, single • CoflFee • « Chocolate Foreign spirits Leaf tobacco Manufactured, ditto 30646 Indigo • Butter Cheese Codfish Fresh pork' Salted ditto I5Sllbi. S4105 20 750 23246 235 9880 60*7 gallon! 14611 lbs. Indian corn Shoes Sole leather Boots Saddles Linseed oil Pig iron Hams Hat bodies Nankeen Horses Afahogany Ditto, boards Pine plank 928 4039 31714 11100 67943 631 barrels 587S bushels 7356 pairs 83880 lbs. 1307 pairs 65 528 gallons 32134 lbs. 1200 lbs. S950 S830 piecM 13 1500 feet - 3 3 3 5 3 1 1 6 70 S 5 1 S5 40 6 8 5 ISO S 1 1000 feet 5O3700(eet per lOOO feet 60 Do. boards & plank 431(<00 per ditto 50 Oak (square) 188150 per square foot 1 2000O per 1000 - 10 5580O - L.SO 248(00 per ditto 7 10 3669 bar. 1 1007 cwt. 40 215 lbs. - 35 lbs. - • 1 500 lbs. . . 899 lbs. . - 1 45 gallons . 3 134 lbs. . . 130 lbs. - 1090 lbs. - Shingles Stitves, pipe Ditto, hogsheads Potash MuRCovado sugar Loaf ditto M apple ditto tlbney A/Iolasses * Snuflf Tallf.w Bfl^arsl 9 3 6 6 6 1 8 6 6 4 9 4 s 2 O 7 o 6 9 9 9 /. 985 13667 3 906 3893 17 658 151 365 993 978 134 792 977 1132 /. 3 I 8 I 12 13 IS 5 i, 9 3 6 4 6 16 10 8 12 8 17 10 7 8 807 1839 5592 1633 130 158 401 37 295 807 97 150 58 1511 1077 9407 JO 1674 1860 S2014 6 1 12 44 6 5 4 40 10 10 15 8 IS 9 U 10 10 10 6 2 o 8 O 10 10 d 5 \5 10 19 15 6 17 6 17 6 f>a^ ic: Carried forward Z 774650 5 4 r4 181 t. J. 4 /. /, Brou^t forward 74650 5 4 Bean* aobudieb 3 3 Pease 16 ditto 3 4 2 IS 4 Oatt 96 ditto 1 4 r 6 8 Wheat 326 ditto 5 6 89 13* Flour • 19 barrels 40 38 Rosin 141 40 38a Tar 18 SO 18 Hops 10670 lbs. 9 400 S 6 Cotton wool 158 lbs. 1 8 13 3 4 Pimento 60 lbs. 1 3 (Gunpowder 25 lbs. S 2 10 Stockings 378 per pair -* 8 37 16 Z. 7.5546 11 6 Besides the preceding articles, tl^ere are a variety of others introduced from the United States. Some by way of St. Johns, some by other channels, besides, what is sent into Upper Canada. Where there is so extensive a line of boundary as that which separates Canada from the United States, it is not to be supposed that strict attention will be *paid to the law making St. John's the only legal channel for goods into Lower Canada. Smuggling to a great extent is carried on. Of tlie articles not enumerated, I am well informed that ^ there are at least 20,000 pieces of white cotton, at about 17s. 6d, a piece— a large quantity of blue cotton— silk handkerchiefs -t-East India checks and stripes — East India «ilkfi*-FreBch cambricks anid crapes^ i:^:.!'^: ■4 ijg^i' ' ■•' 1 iilHlffl: y . *' ^ M! ^H^HeUb. ii IWi' r w Pi' ■ ' ■ .;.'■ iV; 182 « besides groceries and a variety of other ar- ticles. I am assured that these and other non-enumerated articles do not amount annually to less than 100,000/.; — and, therefore, the whole imports from the Unit- ed States into Canada must amount an- nually to 175,546/. 1 1«. 6d. The exports from Canada by way of St. John's to the United States are correctly known.^ la the year I8O6 they were as follows. 1 1. mi- /. A £• '• 3. Besverikiiu - S91151bi. 18 9 . S1395 6 S Bear • • SI 13 each SO . 4668 Sacoon - SI 776 3 . S176 14 Deer - .901 3 9 168 18 9 Musk rat • 198837 1 4 . 8589 3 t Musk - 1818 8 6 327 5 Bufialo - . S9 • SO 39 Martin • • S8S79 4 . 5675 16 Fox - • 600 . 6 180 Fishers . - 800 5 300 Wolf - - 5532 7 6 . S074 Cat . - 503 7 6 188 IS c Otter - , 10447 80 - 10427 Calf . . . 9(>7 ^ 4 161 S 4 Ox hides, raw • 5'.>t each SO 597 Salt '- . . 9G9I bushels 9 6 . 1136 7 6 Fish - . -1097 barrels SO . 1645 10 a Articles not particularised ^ • IO36 13 a Very large sums are brought in from the States. In au&mer the conveyance by land is in a carriage, and very »ging don* half Iks to the ;rs*. States. i, and 187 In casting one's eye over the articles \! .V lii I i, 188 ^ fram Europe into the said territories: and " in like manner all goods and nierchan* " dize, whose importation into the United '* States shall not be wholly prohibited, " may freely, for the purposes of commerce, '* be carried into the same, in the manner " aforesaid, by his Majesty's subjects ; and '* such goods and merchandize shall be " subject to no higher or other duties than " would be payable by the citizens of the " United States on the importation of the " same in American vessels into the At- " lantic ports of the said States." This clause carries with it an appearance pf reciprocal advantage to Great Britain and America; but there is in fact no reciprocity in it. Why adopt the duties laid on by us on goods imported by the river St. Law- rence, as the measure of reciprocal charge on the introduction of goods from America by the line of boundary ? If the British government, or provincial legislature, think proper to allow their own merchants to im-* port certain articles by the river St. Law-, rence, free of duty, are the Americans to say, you must allow us to import the same articles on the same terms by way of Lake 189 Champlain ;^-thcT certainly ought not to be allowed to say so, nor to do so. Co* gent reasons may exist for the one, and not for the other. The object to be attended to,— the jus- tice of the case, is reciprocity of duties ou the goods which pass from the one country to the other. It may suit the policy of Britain that no duties be charged on cer- tain articles shipped by her merchants for Canada, and at the same time be very contrary to her interest or wishes, that the Americans also, should be allowed to send the same articles to Canada, free of duty. Whatever duties are charged on goods com- ing from one side of the line, may be charged on goods coming from the other, if thought adviseable: here the reciprocity would be perfect. The Americans lay a duty of about 15 per cent, on almost every thing they get from Canada, while they annually send into Canada goods to near three times the amount, on which no duties are paid. Formerly, Canada was supplied with teas, cotton goods, silk, and all other East India articles by the British merchant, but I 1 ; ■ ♦ iw:- i ; t I; /I- 1 I > -11' 190 at present the large quantities of East In*' dia goods used in Canada, are supplied ex- clusively by the Americans. In the article of tea alone* it will be seen by a reference to the list, that the amount is near 20,0001. a year, which is a trifle even, compared to the sums annually paid for cotton goods. By the 13th article of the treaty of commerce, 1794, *'His Majesty consents '* that the vessels belonging to the citizens " of the United States of America shall be ** admitted and hospitably received in all '* the sea-ports and harbours of the British '' territories in the East Indies; and that ^' the citizens of the said United States " may freely carry on a trade between the " said territories, and the said United " States in all articles of which the im- ** portation or exportation respectively to " or from the said territories shall not be " entirely prohibited/'* In consequence of this permission, the Americans have gone largely into the East India trade; and, from a variety of advan- tages attached to a Rcutral flag, they have been able (particularly since the com- mencement of the French revolution) to ^vj^'^V'" 'p» of Ihe ist m- ive to 191 import India goods into America, and trans- port them into Canada, so muc.i cheaper than can be done by the British merchants, that the latter are entirely cut out of the trade. Not only the East India company are sufferers by it, but also the British mer- cantile and shipping interests. Add to this, that the money carried out of Canada in payment of these goods, creates a scarcity of cash, which lowers the rate of exchange, and occasions thereby an increase of price on every article of produce exported from Canada ; and this increase falls on the per- son for whose account the produce is export- ed. Canadian produce is increased in price to the European consumer; and, in the English market, is less able to compete with the samesort of produce brought from Ame- rica and elsewhere ; and all this arises in con- sequence of the article in the treaty before quoted, allowing the Americans to carry into Canada, East India articles, groceries, &c. dutyfree. I, therefore, humbly conceive, that if the advantage of the mercantile and shipping interests of Britain is consulted, the above article ought to be abolished, or rather so modified that the British merchant in: I'.,' ik Ui mm '. .1 !!';[ m 11! ii 192 might send his goods into market on th same terms that the Americans do. To strike effectually at the root of the evil, I believe the best way would be to prohibit the Americans from going to In* dia. If the goods are once in the United States, it will be next to impossible to prevent their being carried into Canada, their line of boundary being so extensive. I cannot pretend to say what advantages result to our East India possessions^ from the Americans having liberty to go there; but, it strikes me, as being very much against the mercantile and shipping interests of Britain. The Americans for some yer.rs past, have supplied, not only Canada, but like- wise the We3t India islands, and the Spa- nish main, with a variety of Asiatic pro- duce, brought from thence in American bottoms, which, it is presumed, must have been brought in British bottoms, had the trade not been thrown open to Ame- rica. I do not pretend, however, to be suf- ficiently informed on this matter, to em- brace the question in all its different bearings. > . I on th(!! : of the 1 be to y to In* United ;ible to [lanada, tensive, antages rom the re; but, against jrests of rs past, •ut like" le Spa- ic pro- merican st have , had Ame- be suf- to em- iifferent s 193 I understand that a new treaty is now on the stocks between Britain and Ameri- ca. If the first ten articles of the treaty of 1794 are still declared permanent, parti- cularly the third article, and this, after maturely considering its operation in Ca- nada, and weighing the information which the merchants connected with Canada are ready and able to give, we may presume that something more is taken into consi- deration by our legislators than we are aware of, otherwise they would not do that which seems to every one who knows the Canada trade, to be contrary to the best interests of Britain.— I say qf Britain, for I hold it to be a thing certain that the foot' ing on which the tr^de at present stands, is the best that can be for Canada ; for it as- suredly is advantageous to Canada, to re- ceive tea, groceries, and East India goods in great abundance, and at a cheaper rate than she can from England. But, it is dis- advantageous to Britain both in a com- mercial and political point of view, that her colonies should draw their supplies from any other quarter than from Britain ; it would in time render them independent ^]t< '■ .!'.! I' tiiH \'ih< I- ;,' if-: ^^' 1^ m t ' m l.l '■ I III I m Ill iiir '•ii ''ill; III'' IH iiii 194 of Britain, and more attached to the coun- try from which they receive their supplies than to the mother country. This is likely to be the case with Canada (and perhaps the West Indies too) ^ and well deserves the serious consideration of government. The more supplies received from America, — ^the more encouragement that is given to that trade, the less dependence will Canada have on Britain, and the less inclined they will be, to resist any attempts the Ameri- cans may make to get possession of the country. The interests of the colonies, and of the mother country, are sometimes at variance, as in the present instance, and when that is the case, I would without he- sitation, sacrifice the former to the latter, and frame treaties accordingly. / 1 should think that it would be much better that all mercantile regulations in treaties, should have a limited duration; the situation and circumstances of nations undergo great change, and it seems proper that the mercantile regulations in their treaties should be capable of receiving such changes as circumstances may shew to be necessary. ■i. 47 111 e coun- upplies is likely perhaps rves the t. The 3a, — ^the I to that Canada led they Ameri- a of the lies, and times at bee, and hout he- le latter, )e much itions in iuration ; nations Is proper lin their jceiving ly shew 195 ^ If experience demonstrates that treaties are founded on principles of justice and of reciprocal advantage, they can easily be continued from time to time ; but if they should not be founded in justice, and are without reciprocity (such as the third ar- ticle of the treaty of 1794), and yet be de- clared permanent, the good faith and ho- nour of the nation aggrieved, may induce them to adhere to the treaty ; but it will be with a bad grace, and create bad blood, they vvill be glad to embrace any opportunity of coming to a rupture, in order to bring about a new treaty. This would be avoid- ed if there were a limitation to the opera- tion of the oppressive articles ; they would be endured with patience, until the time should arrive when a new arrangement could be made. Although the first ten articles of the American treaty are declared permanent, it does not follow, that,,Uke the laws of the Medes and Persians, they are unchange- able: the act contains several articles, which, in their nature, were not permanent, hence it became necessary to use some ap- pellation for those articles which had an / >• * t 1 1 '^il ) 1 1 J :; ■■ ] 1 . i: ; ■ ^^ 1 1 'il t I i i I ■ 1 n 1 ii i •■ ■^'- :•, ttlf 196 unlimited duration, and the term perma" nent was adopted, not probably meaning that they should never be touched, but merely to distinguish them from the others: they were to be permanent till changed by mutual consent. Our North American colonists look homewards just now with all that anxiety which men naturally shew, when their best interests are under discussion ; the Ameri- cans are able negociators, and their local knowledge of this country, and the great attention they pay to the most minute circumstances tending to their advantage in a commercial point of view, require on the part of our ministry, much circumspec- tion, and all the aid they can get from men of commercial habits, who have studied the interests of the colonies on the spot, and whose inferences are drawn from the evidence of facts. A .iUii' :\. m I : 'J ■ i »» '^? •t''i.* ■'■ ; .. ' -> ' ,• , i.l M m i perma^ meaning v led, but e others: inged by ists look t anxiety their best le Ameri- leir local the great t minute dvantage equire on cumspec- get from rho have es on the awn from LEITER XV. Quebec, 1807. Ha VINO gone at some length into the political connection between Great Bri- tain and America, as far as relates to our transatlantic possessions, j)ermit me to resume the consideration of the produc- tions and exports of Canada, to Britain and elsewhere. It will be obsetved on examining the list of Canadian exports, that they already consist of almost every necessary of life; and, were the Canadians as active and in- dustrious as their neighbours in the United States, the amount of exports would very rapidly and greatly increase ; as it is, they^ will gradually increase as population in- creases. Wheat is the most considerable article of exportation from Canada; upwards of | one million bushels have, been exported in ' ^- II 4,1 , mrj I ' J:* 0.. •> I! I. !i? : m ijiij- »M' : 1 ■/• '■{, I f ■■ ^■', 198 one year; not half that quantity however was 'exported on an average of five years ending in 1805. Canada wheat is pf an excellent qua- lity: it is thought superior to the Baltic •wheat, being harder, and yielding more flour in proportion to the quantity. The bushel usually weighs 60lbs. and upwards. It is what is called spring wheat; the seed is put into the ground in May, and the harvest is finished in the beginning of Sep- tember. The farmers are very negligent in pre- venting the growth of weeds, so that the wheat when threshed is very foul; it is in general purchased from the farmers, by the country shopkeepers, who are usually corn dealers, and that too from necessity, as it is frequently the only way by which they can be reimbursed for the goods they have sold during the year. These shop- keepers, and corn dealers are applied to by the merchants in Quebec and Montreal when grain is wanted. Wheat is sold by a French measure called a minoty which is to thr Winchester bushel as 10a,765 is to iU0,00Q, bein/^ *>. however ve years ;nt qua* Baltic g more J. The pwards. it ; the and the of Sep* in pre- hat the it is in jrs, by usually :essity, which s they shop- Itoby »ntreal ^asure hester bein/i 199 ^ somewhat more than 8y per cwt. larger than the Wiiichester bushel. Wheat is generally purcha«*ed by the merchant from the country shopkeeper in the months of February, March, and April. It is brought to Q«!«^*bec and Montreal as soon as the ice breaks up, and the naviga- tion opens in the river St. Lawrence. From its being so very foul, it is seldom or never in a proper condition to be shipped, until it is cleaned. For that purpose it under- goes the operation of being once or twice put through what is called the cribbles^ the ex pence of which, as well as the ex- pence of bringing it from the place of its growth, is paid by the merchant exporter. It is brought by the river in small vessels, on which no assurance is ever effected, al- though there is considerable risk of loss, or at least of damage : this risk the merchant takes upon himself. When the grain is shipped, an account is made of all ex- pences, and a consideration added for risk of river craft : all of which, with first cost, fixes the price ou board, A commission of 5 per cent, is charged for shipping, and 4. ... _ ,-, .. -. .' h % \ ■ ■ ■ , i \ ] If pi :i,' f'- the amount is drawn for immediately, id bills at sixty days sight. The principal objection to the importa- tion of Canada wheat into England^ is the price : 6s, 6d, was the average pride for five yrars, ending 180j, and it is frequently shipped as high as 'fs, 6d, per bushel* Even at that price, it generally pays very well in Spain and Portugal. In the west of Scotland, particularly at Greenock, it brings generally a better price than in the London market, and sells there even higher than English wheat. In that part of the country, liie Hcasons are so wet and back- ward, that the wheat seldom comes to ma- turity, at least it does not acquire a suffi- cient degree of hardness to grind wellj and become good and useful tiour^ The Ca- nada wheat, being remarkably hard and dry, is mixed with it. It then grinds well^ and the flour is fit for the bakenuuse* Freight to Britain is usually about 2s, per busheh It seldom happens that the number of bushels shipped at Quebec holda out at thb port of delivery, which arises^ from the. ly, id porta- ls the or five lently usheL s very ; west ck, it in the ligher jf the back- o ina- suffi- , and 3 Ca- and well^ uuse« per )er of it thW the Mnanner of measuring in Canada. A half bushel is used in general ; and they are extremely dexterous in measuring. The grain is put in and out of the bushel so quiekly, that it has not time to feel its own weight, as it were, and settle down. I knew an instance of a man having mea- sured, and put into the sacks in which it was carried on board, 6400 half bushels in tiie space of eleven hours and a half, which is near ten times in a minute. The next articles of consequence in the list of exports, are flour and biscuit. Tlie average amount of flour for five years, end- ing 1805, was 19»822 barrels at 4:2s. 6d. per barrel, 42,123/. I7s. 6d\ The flour exported from the river St. Lawrence come3 principally from Upper Canada, where the wheat is of a superior quality to that of liower Canada, and yields very fine flour. They have many inducements for sending flour rather than wheat. It has a long in- land navigation on the lakes, and down the St. Lawren<^e to Montreal and Quebec. It is brought down in bateaux (flat-bot- tomed boats), of from four to five tons bur- then, navigated with oars, poles, and sails ; i> ' .Mh !i (.'. t ytv i:i'>!i|V.| (' nj( F : !. I ' 202 and in scows. From the length of the in- land navigation it becomes an object of inipoitance to compi\ ss the bulk, and con- centrate the value of the article, in order to save Ireight; and besides, when fiour is well packed, it is not so subject to receive damage as wheat would l>e : it resists the water better. The country, too, is bene- fited by the wages of labour in manufac- turing the article, and consequently aug- menting its value. It gives employment to a nuniber of people in the grinding, making casks, 8cc^ A public inspector at Montreal and at Quebec examine? all flour previous to its being shipped, to see that it is of a proper merchantable quality. A scow is a vessel with four sides, an oblong square, in length forty to fifty feet, in breadth thirty to forty, and from four to five feet deep, flat-bottomed. The sides are not perpendicular; they are inclined outwards, for the purpose cf carrying a greater weight. The scows are built on the lakes in Up- per Canada. A large one will carry 500 barrels of flour, and costs about 30/. They are built for the farmers, for the purpose lie in- ct of I con- order our is eccive ts the bene- nufac- jr aug- yment ndiiig, ;tor at »p all to see uality, es, an feet, four to sides Iclined ing a |nllp- 500 They irpose 203 of transporting to iJonlreal flour, potasli, 6cc, and are navigated by long oars or sweeps, and poles. Tlicy have a mast and sail, too, which the}' can use in the lakes when the wind is favourable : on these oc- casions they steer with an oar; and they have anchors and cal)les to come to with in the lakes, when the wind blows strong against them. They are made of pine, planked, and calked outside, hke a ship, but have no deck. When they have dis- charged their cargo they are of no further use, except for breaking up for domestic purposes, and they are sold generally for a very few dollars. The advantage to the country is carried still further when the flour is manufactur- ed into biscuit, and exported in that shape. There was exported from Canada, on an average of five years, 21,777 hundred weight at 25,<.— 27,*^21/. 5s. The Canada biscuit is of an excellent quality, and ge- nerally much cheaper than the British bis- cuit. Considerable supphes of it. are sent to Newfoundland and to Halifax, for the use of our navy, and other shipping in that (juarter. .>• < t , I. i i , hi I I 1! ]v:' *:, i; I i'"'^ l!^^ /«;■ M. .i:;( !;:; m I 204 The other species of grain, such a« pease, barley, oats, and Indian corn, are produced in considerable quantities; but the surplus produce is not sufficient to render them of importance as objects of foreign trade. It is only within these very few years that barley has been known in this coun- try. It was introduced by a gentleman who erected a distillery near Quebec. He imported the seed from England, and after much pains taken to overcome the anti- pathy which the Canadian habitant has to experiments, he succeeded in prevailing upon them to give it a trial. He gave them the seed gratis, and bound himself to pay them a certain sum for each acre they should sow, whatever the produce might be. In this way he overcame their prejudices ; and barley is now very common in all parts of the country. The barley of Canada makes very good malt; and several breweries have been erected for making ale, of which enough is now made to supply the demands of the country, besides considerable quantities exported to the West Indies, &c. Q05 The Canadian soil and climate are friendly to the growth of hops, of which enough is raised to supply the wants of the brewers. They grow very luxuriantly, and the flowers are very large ; larger in- deed than I ever remember to have seen in Kent. They are likely to become an ar- ticle of consequence for exportation. Small quantities have already been sent to Eng- land. Government have lately taken much pains to introduce the cultivation of hemp into Canada. The soil and climate are very well calculated for it; and some attempts that have been made, have completely suc- ceeded. Government have lately sent out agents, who have had lands assigned to them for the cultivation of hemp, and for the purpose of shewing the people how to cultivate it ; as example in aid of precept is most likely to be efficient. They have great hopes of being able to succeed in their endeavours to any extent that may be wanted. Time, of course, is necessary ; for it is no easy matter to induce a poor igno- rant farmer to embark in a species of agri- culture with which he is unacquainted : he f ' i i f (" >i ,• -I'M- I ay ^ii: I I i '' I m p't i I ■I r naturally prefers certainty to hope; he knows he can both raise and sell wheat. However, as government have agreed to pay the farmer a price certain per ton, and as this price is more than what he would receive for the wheat produced on the land that produced the hemp, it is probable the quantity raised in the country in general, will increase' very fast. There is one thing thct it is imagined will retard the business, which is, that ac- cording to the existing laws hemp pays no tythes to the clergy ^ who have great influ- ence with their parishioners, and who, it is feared, may use that influence in counter- acting the views of government. It would perhaps be a proper thing to make hemp a tytheable article, and thereby give the clergy an interest in promoting its cultiva- tion equal to what they have in other things which the farmer produces. Wheat and all other grain pays one-twenty-sixth part in lieu of tythes. It certainly is an object of great import- ance to Britain to draw from this country a constant supply of hemp. This would make her more independent of Russia, -fc-- :i ( je; he wheat. Bed to n, and would le land )le the sneral. igined at ac- ays no influ-' >, it is anter- ^ould hemp e the Itiva-- other ^heat -sixth port-^ mtry ould ssia, 207 from whose despotic, capricious govern- ment our trade is subject to great risks and losses, and even to a total stoppage. The importation of hemp from Russia has annually amounted to no less than 30,000 tons for the general consumption of the country, and for the use of the royal navy. No part of the productions of Canada is likely to become of more importance to Britain than the produce of the forests, which consists of an abundance of differ- ent kinds of wood, fit for the purposes of the dockyard, as well' as for the use of the house carpenter, and cabinet-maker. The dock-yard can be supplied with masts of the largest size. Some have been brought down to Quebec, 120 feet in length, and about four feet in diameter. It is the white pine which arrives at this immense size, and may be stiled the mo- narch of the Canadian forest. There is agreatvarietyof fine oak timber. The U pperCanada oak is considered next to the British in cjuality, and superior to what comes from the Baltic. It is of a more open grain than the British oak, is softer, and tiii!:'ll i\\\ il III' I >'^r II • ^ ■- i ■ ■ . ■ - ■^, - -■ ■ < '-- ■ - . * ;■,'■■■,"■* ■ -,'■'.- ■ • ' I i M I. 'A i! ■ it I'liiMi iiif, fi! 'PH 1i !! i»ij 208 consequently does not last so long. There isno crooked oak timber in Canada, which is a disadvantage in ship-building, as thei^ is a want of the timber necessary for knees. I cannot well inform you why there is no crooked oak in Canada. Per- haps it arises from the trees growing so close to each other in the forest, that they have not room to spread out their branches like the British oak ; or perhaps the soil being very moist and rich, constantly co- vered with vegetable matter, the growth is too rapid to admit of all those twistings and elbows which seem so natural to the British oak. Or perhaps the Canada oak may be somewhat of a different species from the British. Whatever may be the cause, the fact is undoubted. The want of crooked timber for knees is remedied in some measure by the substitution of pine roots, which, the carpenters say, answer perfectly well, and are to be had in abund- ance. ;„, ,y^ ^ _, ,. ^,,^;v.,: , ■ The length and straightness of the Car nada oak fits it for planking for ships, and for every other purpose for which oak , There a, which as thei^ isary for rou why a. Per- »wing so hat they tranches the soil mtly co- rowth is ;wistings d to the ada oak species be the he want edied in of pine answer abund- the Car ps, and ch oak 209 plank may be wanted. Staves for casks of all sorts are made to great advantage from the Canada oak. Of the various kinds of wood fit for the purposes of tlie cabinet-maker and car^ penter, with which the forests of Canada abound, I may mention maple, elm, ash, birch, hiccory, cherry-tree, and red cedar : of some of these there are different species. The curled maple and bird's-eye maple make beautiful furniture. The cherry-tree also is highly esteemed ; the others are very useful for domestic purposes, and making implements of husbandry, &c. No part of the Canada lumber is likely to become of more value than Staves, and the quantity might be increased to almost any extent, were the population of Canada more considerable. Staves, even at pre- sent, form a leading article of exportation. They are becoming daily better known, and better liked in Britain, as well as ia the wine countries, particularly in Portugal and Madeira. Staves are sold at so much per long thousand of 1200 standard staves. The standard stave is 5j fe^t long, and 11 inch r ■I PPH iF, !l ' . U\^i |i hi I I : i i !| r: 1 l.'l ' . L 210 thick, and about 5 inches broad. ITht^ price increases one-fifth for every half inch increase in the thickness. Staves one inch thick are charged two-thirds of the price of standard. Staves 4J- feet long, are reckon- ed three for two standard. 34. and 24 feet long, are reckoned two for one. The 2t are reckoned the same as Sf, because thej are generally broader, being for heaiing. The Canada staves are generally ship- ped in the rough. They are split, not sawed ; and of course, are what is called feathered, that is, thicker at one side than at the other ; but they are always measured at the thinnest side. A full, well-built vessel ought to take 12L00 staves for every ten tons register. And it is generally found that 1200 stand- ard staves, when carefully and closely packed, take about 15 tons measuremeni. Freight is generally from 45/. to 47/. per 1200. Staves of any dimensions may be got by giving previous notice. Contracts may be entered into with those who prepare them, and who will cut them to any given size. Some have lately been shipped, 5 I ' I I \m ftlfinch ne inch price of reeNon- 24^ feet 56 thej aiing. ly ship- lit, not 5 called de than easured to take register. stand- closely rement. 7/. per be got ;ts may prepare y given pedj 5 inches thick ; and it is probable that staves of that thickness will answer extremely well wherever labour is cheaper than in Canada, or where ingenuity or machinery can abridge the labour of splitting or saw- ing. The average price on board has been considered about 33/. per 1200 standard. An act of the provincial parliament has lately been passed for the proper regulation of the lumber trade of Canada; Much be- nefit is expected to arise from this law, as none but proper merchantable \v6od will be allowed to be exported as merchant- able, and it will have an appropriate mark to distinguish it from what is not mer- chantable. All the timber shipped at Quebec is floated down the river in what is termqd rafls : a raft is the general name ; but they vary greatly in their construction, accord- ing to the kind of wood of which they are coniposed. The large masts are laid close to each other, and have pieces of oak fast- ened to them, in order to keep them toge- ther, which is not an easy matter in some of the rapid3. The raftai of oak timber and staves arc ' I :■ 1 ' - f'. . I: IM I < i!^ ft fit 5 ': :il \i ■ 1 ■ :•! 4 , .1 f ■ 4i 1 ]*' . ,1 i^ i I L . ii i M Mm^ ^ 4 212 of* a different form. A great number of large pieces of pine are strongly fastened together with wooden pins, making a kind of frame in the form of a gridiron. To this frame the pieces of oak are fastened, and thereby buoyed up ; for they are so heavy, they would not float of themselves. These floats or rafts are so well put together, that they resist the strong concussions in com- ing down the rapids ; and it is remarkable there is not a piece of iron about them: their only fastenings are wooden pins, and the twigs and young shoots of trees, of a tough and pliable nature. The cables even, which they use as a fastening to prevent their being carried up the river by the flow- ing tide, ar*^ nothing but young shoots of trees (chiefly hiccory, I believe), fastened and twisted together. By these floats not only the oak, both squared and in plank, is brought down, but also staves : and they are of vast dimensions. They are managed and directed by the force of large oars or sweeps, from SO to 40 feet long, having their fulcrum near the edge of the raft. The rowers are stationed at the proper distance to give effect to their exertions on tlie lever; ($ nber of astened a kind To this 3d, and heavy, These er, that n com- arkable them: ns, and 5s, of a Bs even, prevent le fiow- loots of astened »ats not plank, ad they anaged oars or having I. The istance I lever ; 213 and, it must beallowed, a great power is wanted to give a direction to such an un- wieldy mass. Fifteen to twenty people are employed on some of them : a house is erected on them, in which the people sleep and eat ; for they have cooking utensils, a fire-place, and beds,— such as they are. x4.fter the wood is sold, tlie float and house - are also disposed of; and, like the scow^ ge- nerally for very little money. Some very handsome ships are annually built at Quebec and Montreal : they are contracted for by the carpenters at about ^ 101. currency per ton, exclusive of sails and rigging, which are imported from Britain, as wel) as every article of copper that may be necessary. Most of the iron work may \ be found of Canada manufacture. This business is of immense advantage to Que- bec and Montreal, as it gives employment, summer and winter, to a great many car- penters, and other tradesmen and labour- v^^ ers. There is not a less sum than 20,0001. , annually circulated in Quebec and Mon- treal in the business of ship-building; and ?is it is a winter as well as a summer em^ . '*): t'. ii K. I,: I i. I 314 1 1 pJoyment, they have a resource in it when all others fail them. Pot and pearl ashes are sliippcd at Qae- bec and Montreal to a considerable extent, as will appear by a reference to the list of exports : but it is an article for which Ca- nada is indebted almost entirely to Ame- rica. The ashes are usually made by the Americans, and brought to Montreal, where there is a public warehouse for their rece|v» tion, and where the quality is ascertained by an officer appointed for that purpose.— They are afterwards sold, and either ship- ped at Montreal, or sent down in river craft to Quebec, where they are put on board ftwr England. Such as come to Que- bec, without going to Montreal, are exa^ mined by the public inspector at Quebec, and their quality ascertained. Although the most considerable quan- tity of the pot and pearl ashes comes from the United States, yet the whole does not come from thence. The Canadians make a small quantity for exportation. It is a custom amongst the people in Canada, to preserve the ashes of the wood burnt v^ i;- ^i.! !■ it when it Qoe- extent, list of ich Ca- ► Ame- by the , where recep^ •tained lose.—* r ship« 1 river )ut on )Que* 3 exa^ lebec, quan- y from ;s not make t is a la, to nt ill 215 tlieir stoves : part they make use of them- selves in the manufacture of the soap n^ cessary for their owrt families (almost every family in Canada makes the soap used in their own houses) : the remainder they sell to potash manufacturers, who col- Ject it through the country, and pay in ge- neral about tenpence per bushel. It is a pity the Canadians do not turn their attention to the manufactuiring of pot- ash; there is no wont of wood, n6r indeed of any thing but industry and exertion on their patt ; for thei^e can be n6 doubt that their time is not fuHy occupied in the ma- nagement of their farms ; and were they more industrious, it would make up in some measure for the want of population. The best ashes are made from beech, elm, and some other hard woods. None of the pine genus, nor any of the soft woods^ answer the purpose. The process of making potash is very simple : the wood ashes are collected as free from extraneous mattef as possible: they are put into wooden pots of a consi- derable size, with small apertures in the bot- tom : the ashes are saturated with water, ii I «n i V- ;:.,|M il .41 } 1 , 1 1 ; l^ ' I ^ •i; M, ; m ■■ 216 which filters through these apertures, car- rying with it the salts of the ashes. More water is added, until the ashes are entirely deprived of their salts.-— The water now holds in solution a very strong vegetable alkali : by boiling it in large kettles, the water is evaporated, and the salts remain :- they now receive the appellation of potash. The potash is sometimes calcined to deprive it of all extraneous colouring matter : it be- comes extremely white, and is denominated pearl-ash. Potash sells in Canada usually for from 401. to 50l. per ton. The pearl-ash is, in general, somewhat higher. The fisheries of the St. Lawrence have never been followed up with spirit : an es- tablishment has been formed on the La- brador shore, from whence considerable quantities of salmon, cod-fish, mackarel, and shad, are annually brought to Quebec, and either used in the country, or re-ship- ped for the West Indies. A species of her- ring, and a fish about the size of a salmon, called hasSi are caught, salted, and sent to the West India market, in considerable ij[uantities, 1 'i ■jv-'f ;'!-• ■ I Vi .1 ii'iii • 217 , car- A seal and porpoise fishery lias been More carried on in several parts of the St: T Law- tirely rence, and was formerly very productive ' now both in skins and oil ; at present little ad- itable vantage is derived from it. These articles (, the are likewise brought from the King's posts. nain f The fur trade of Canada, in pomt of )tash. value, and of importance to Great Britain, ;prive is nearly equal to any other branch of the it be- Canada trade. The duty paid in England ll ated on furs and skins, imported from Canada, amounted per annum on an average of four from years, ending 1806, to 22,0531. The lum- is, in her trade is of more real value to Britain, i'i' because timber is of more real use in so- have ciety. The corn trade is, perhaps, more va- n es- luable to the Canadians than tlie lur trade ;, La- but the trade in furs employs a great num- rable ber of people, and a large capi tal. :^rel, The North-west Cowpany, who have 3bec, entirely monopolized to themselves the fur ship- trade, are a self-created company, not ac- her- knowledged by government, but who have non, united their capital and exertions for sent their nuitual benefit. As they have at pre- able sent no competitors in the north-west ter- !. ritory, they have the trade in their own ■ N - power in a great measure: but they are * * » "j r I iiii I) \ ' m H; 4'- 218 obliged to pay a considerable price fof the skins, because the Indians have been so long accustomed to the trade, that they have long ago learned that a beaver skin is worth more than a two-penny knife, or a sixpenny trinket. The business in the north-west territory is managed by yoimg men employed by the company ; who go into the Indian country, and establish trading jwsts in different quar- ters, some of them an immense distance beyond Lake Superior ;— so far, that it re- quires more than one summer to send the goods to them, and get returns. These young men remain in these distapft regions for several years, subject to many hard- ships and privations : they live almost en- tirely on the produce of their hunting; they never see, for years together, either bread or salt : and, what is rather surpris- ing, although animal food is their only re- source, they enjoy very good health. It is a very solitary mode of living ; for there are not morethan two or three Englishmen at the same post. They have under their com- mand several Canadians, who act as canoe- men, hunters, &c. These pursuits, the collecting the furs for the »een so tt they skin is e, or u 5rritory I by the [)iintry, t quar- istance it it re^ ind the These •egions halrd-* )st en- nting ; either jrpris- ly re- It is re are en at • coni- anoe- 3 furs 219 ttiirt bringing them down to Montreal, seem congenial to the common Canadian ; he ap- pears better pleased to be employed in hunting and fishing, with all their attendant dangers, than to earn his bread quietly by cultivating the soil. Many of these voya^ gears save their wages, return to their own parish, and employ themselves in clearing and cultivating the land; many of them, too, it must be allowed, acquire habits of dissipation, which they never afterwards are able to correct. Anpther fur company has lately been established under the title of tlie South-west Company; from the furs in which they trade being brought from the south-west parts of America, in the neighbourhood of the Mis- sissippi; Missouri, and Ohio. This trade had been carried on by a variety of indi- viduals, who, by interfering in each other's concerns, did themselves a great deal of harm, which is now avoided by their be- ing united'. They are sometimes called the MichilimackifiacJc Company, because they have an establishment in that quarter. The profit in the fur trade ought to be very great, for the capital employed is a long time in returning. The goods to ba ' W' no bartered with the Indians are shipped from England in the spring, and arrive in Ca- nada in the course of the summer. They are shipped at twelve months' credit. These goods are sorted during the summer and winter, and sent up the country the follow- ing spring ; and it is perhaps six months before they get to their destination ; some- times, it is more than twelve months, when the posts are at a great distance ; they are bartered for furs, which take as long a time to come to Montreal; and by the time the furs get to London and are sold, and in cash, three years at least have elaps- ed. So that the profits ought to be at least triple the profits of a trade where the capital is turned once a year. Besides the furs shipped for the British market, the United States have been in the habit of taking oif large quantities of furs from Montreal, as will appear from the list of exports to America. These pur- chases form the principal counterpoise to the large importations from the States. An attempt has lately been made to esta- blish a fur company in New York, to trade to the south-west ; whether they will succeed or not, time only can shew. Those who pur. ise to esta. trade ceed who 221 know the trade for some tune past, think that it . must be a losing concern to any man, or body, of men who may undertake it; reasoning on Llie principle, that if the Makinack company (who dp the business on the least expence possible), with difficulty get a living profit by it, what must be the situation of a Charter Company/, acting by governors, managers, and agents, who al- ways do their business at a greater expence than individuals ; and whose exertions, in general, are only comnensurate to their interest in the concern. It is a matter that I cannot determine ; but, I dare say the sa- vageSf the catchers of wild beasts, will, in the course of a very few years, settle thepoint. A variety of articles for domestic pur- poses, which used formerly to be imported from Britain, are now manufactured in this country. Of the manufactures of Canada, the iron forges take the lead. There are two works of this kind in the province; one near Three Rivers, called the forces of St. Maurice; the other at Batiscam, near St. Ann's, on the road from Quebec to Montreal. The forges of St. Maurice were established by the French king many years I i 'f I h Hi »• I' ■ ! i > i. ' Ma II I ■' ". , I I' :' i,ii» ; :(i; 222 ugOy and his Britannic majesty at the coti« quest succeeded to his rights. The works are let on lease to a mercantile house in Quebec, who carry on the business with spirit and success. The chief articles manufactured at these forges, are stoves, bar-iron, and cooking utensils. Besides what is necessary for the use of Canada, there is a considerable ex- portation of cast-iron articles, particularly of stoves. Formerly almost all the candles and amp used in Canada were imported; at present, enough is made for the use of the country, and a considerable exportation besides. There was a regular importation of hats formerly; at present, however, they are made here in sufficient quantity for the use of the country. But there is still a con- siderable importation of hat-bodies, which are put into form and finished here. It might be thought that as the beaver fur goes from Canada, it would be cheaper here than in England ; but this is not the case. Indeed, furs pf all sorts can be pur- chased in London at a cheaper ratCy and of a very superior appearance to any &iat m w he coli- 3 works Duse ia iss with it these cooking for the ible ex- icularly les and :ed; at ; of the [)rtati(m •■A of hats ey are the use a con- which e. It ver fur leaper lot the )e pur- e, and ly that 223 can be got in Canada. The English fur- rier knows his trade better, and the extent of his transactions enables him to take a smaller profit than the Canadian. Leather has hitherto been, and indeed continues to be imported in large quanti- ties, principally from the United States. But this probably will not long be the case, because tan works are becoming more com- mon, and, at Quebec, are on a pretty large scale. Canada has long been famous for th^ manufacture of sniff. The use of tobacco in different shapes is very common. From the tji^e a Canadian habitant awakens in the morning, till he goes to bed at night, the tobacco pipe is seldom ovft of his mouth. The men smoke so much that they have not time to take snuff; but the snuff-maker is amply compensated bv the ladies, who, of all ranks and of all agv >, are greatly addicted to snuff taking; — and a filthy custom it is. It most assuredly assists thejr stoves and dry winter atmosphere, in giving them a withered appearance, and premature marks of age. A species of sugar is made in Canada IH- ■•]-': I'm :\ I.'-, ";! !*;>, I ii4 ; 1^ i 1 ;• ' i ;. 1 i i 1 Ii:'v-i i-r ^ . ■!|!; ■IS 'i 1 :• 1''''^ fe I f -i. ii Hi 4 : ' t^ri;:. ffi i Mm 224 from the maple tree, which is extremely good, when purified • The method of mak- ing it is this I — In the months of March and Apri), when the sap begins to rise, an incision is made in the tree about tliree feet from the ground, and the sap soon be- gins to run out. It is received into a vessel placed for the purpose ; a piece of wood is stuck into the incision which con- ducts the sap into the vessel, and it is car- ried to the boiler. Those who wish to make sugar, go into the woods, and encamp among maple-trees. They carry boilers, and other necessary apparatus with them; and they remain in the woods for several days, till the whole process is finished.— The quantity of maple-sugar made in Ca- nada is equal to two-thirds of the whole consumption of the country. R*om the number of maple-trees with which the woods abound, one might imagine that enough might be made to render it an ar^ tide of trade and exportation. But they are deterred from it by the general abund- ance of West India, sugar, which can be purchased nearly as cheap as maple-sugar> being often at five pence per pound ; while stremeJy , of mak- d April, incision ree feet ioon be- L into a piece of lich con- it is car- wish to I encamp boilers, th them ; ir several dshed.— e in Ca- le whole rom the lich the ine that it an ar-. 5ut thej abund- can be le-sugar> 1 ; while 225 this is the case, the Jamaica sugar will al* ways have the preference. Before closing this account of the trade of Canada, I must mention a district of it, called the Inferior district of Gaspi, It is situated to the southward of the river St. Lawrence, from Cape Chat downwards, and comprehends a considerable extent of country on the west coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, in which are found two deep bays, viz. GaspS Bay, and Chaleur Bay. The district of Ga^pi has a governor appointed by the king, and there is an in- ferior court of King's Bench for the de- cision of such civil suits as do not ex^ cced 201. and to take cognizance of cri- minal matters that are not capital. At present the population, if you reckon resident settlers only, is not more than 3,500. In the summer time a great many more are attracted for the purpose of carry- ing on the fishery, which is done in all its difibrent stages. The bays and coasts of GaspS shouxhd with codfish, salmon, and many oth^ sorts of fish. There are several fishing sta- tiojQS along the coaat; those pf most im« I I I; II I ; ' M lii; ( ■ t. 1 ! I'i « - ,, '\% . 1 ■ ■ ' ^ : ■ ft',' H i < 'r ' I 1 1 1 r ( ; ■ 1 liir^-i ' 226 portancc are at Perc^ and Chaleur bay* The trade employs annually about a dozen square rigged vessels, besides a great many small craft. Fish, to the value of 60,0001. a year, including what is sent to Quebec tf) be re-shipped for the West Indies, and elsewhere, or used in the country, are cured and sent to a market. The greatest part, however, is sent direct from Gasp^ to th« West indies or Mediterranean. So much for the production and ex- ports of Canada; and I wish I could, in addition, give you a correct idea of the character of the metcantile men of this coun- try. I will venture lo make a few ob- servations. They are very industrious, and by jnb means extravagant in their ex- pences and style of living ; and yet, I will venture to say, that there is no place on either side of the Atlantic where there have been so many bankrupt estates. It is a sur- prising circumstance, and no less true than surprising, that of the great variety of mer- cantile houses which have been established Acre during the last forty years, not above five in a hundred of them have paid their debts, I have seen a list of the whole, and the manner in which they made their exit; ur bay* a dozen it many 60,0001. Quebec lies, and re cured :est part, p6 to th« and ex- could, in ;a of the this coun- few ob- ustrious, their ex- et, I will place on Ihere have t is a sur- true than ;y of mer- tablished not above aid their hole, and Iheir exit; 227 t\sti really, 1 could not have believed it possible. These houses have been almost wholly British. Very few of the Canadians have iever engaged in foreign commerce, and those who have tried it, have generally failed in the attempt. . I have endeavoured to discover the , causes ^ ^ :he great number of failures in this country; to enable one to do so, it is necessary to look back a little, to the events which have occurred. s When we acquired the country, the po- pulation was trifling; and from the previ- ous derangements in the French treasury, the people were very poor. The mercan- tile adventurers from England, who came to the country, were strangers to the peo- ple, and to the kind of goods which suited them ; of course, they sold their goods to great disadvantage. They persevered for a year or two, but bankruptcy very fre- quently ensued. When they began to be a little acquainted with the sort of goods that were wanted, and the people that might be trusted, and when the general state of the country had been considerably ameliorated, the American war broke out : it threw every thing back, and put a stop in U' i: mi r lui: 298 lii ;pj li ' W If- •1: I- I.- i 13 3!; ', ,'t III a great measure to business ; the goods that were imported, from the high rate of freight and insurance, came to an immense price ; and when peace took place, there wero many sufferers. Another calamity befel the country, of rather an uncommon kind to produce bankruptcy, viz. a great faoility in making remittances, A public officer drew bills on government to a great amount from time to time, which he gave to the merchants on credit'^they calculated on paying for them when they collected their debts in the course of the winter ; many of them never did pay; but the worst of it was, that calculating on the facility of getting bills, they gave large orders, which were executed with promptitude, as the English merchant, having received remittance of go» vernment bills, supposed that what he had received were bona Jide bills, paid for; and that his correspondent was a man of pro^ perty. As soon as the supply of govenji^ ment bills stopped, from a want of punc* tuality in fulfilling engagements, remittaii- ces failed, and bankruptcy ensued.] A great many bankruptcies uay be traced up to these causes, which were however of a temporary nature, and are not \ )dB that ' freight ; price ; re were ;y befel on kind facility c officer amount i to the ated on ted their many of >fitwas9 f getting ,ch were Engli&h ce of go- he had or; and of pro* goven^*' of puno emittao- laiay be :h were arc not 099 likely ever to recur. There are other causes of bankruptcy which arise out of the nature of the country, and might have operated in aid of the preceding temporary causes. Perhaps, the long continuance of the winter lessens their power of doing business to the extent they would be able to do, were the navigation of the St. Lawrence open afl the year. During six months of the year, from November till May, no business is done except by those engaged in the dry goods line, who continue to supply the wants of the shopkeepers ; but these are not great; for the country people have laid in their winter stock before the navigation closes. An important cause of bankruptcy, I should suppose, has been the want of capital to begin with, aided sometimes by their not being acquainted with the laws and customs of the people, and aided also by the bad custom which has got into general use of pving long credits to tl)e country shop* keepers. Credit is easily procured in Eng- land by the foreigYi merchant, but it is not procured for nothing. Interest is charged after a certain time, and runs on during winter as well as during summer. If long credits are given here to the shopkeepers, I I l! I i '«' I! i 11 1 I ' 1.1 ff, til! 1^1! .)/ llj 230 and even when monies are due, if pay- ments are not punctually made, remit* tances must fail. Interest accumulat. s in England ; and in Canada considerable ex- pences of housekeeping, &c. are unavoid* ably incurred. If the profits do not meet these, or if the merchant has the misfortune to make bad debts, the consequence is evident, bankruptcy must ensue. As the mercantile men in this country draw their resources from Britain, their real situation is not known except in Bri- tain. They are often in Canada imagined to be men of fortune, when they are in fac^ on the verge of bankruptcy. By and by their drafts come back dishonored, and the bubble bursts; then fortunate is he who has had least to do with them*. * Tq shew the encreased production and trade of Ca-> nada, there is added in the appendix a statement of the exports and imports of last year, 1808. — It forms a cu- rious illustration of the efficiency of a brisk market, aod Wgh prices. 231 if pay- t remit- ilat.sin ible ex- inavoid* ot meet sfortune lence is country n, their t in Bri- [nagined e in fac^ and by and the he who idd of Ca-> tent of the Drms a cu- arket, viA LETTER XVI. Quebec, 180/. Canada, and the other British colonies in North America, have of late acquired an additional degree of importance to the mother country, from the existing differ- ences with the United States ; and assur- edly neither ourWestlndia planters, nor our timber merchants, can trust to the States for supplies, as confidently as they have done heretofore ; they must look elsewhere, and to no quarter so naturally as to our own colonies. The obvious question for our considera- tion is, can our West India planters, our tim- ber merchants, and our dockyards, get the necessary supplies from our North Ameri- can colonies ? or, to what extent can they be supplied? The West Indies require to be supplied with Dried codfish. Barrel or pickled fish, Salmon, herrings of different spe- cies, mackarel, and oil. Lumber, viz. squared timber, scant- : 1 f \ i'^ M t: '." i ling, plunks, and boards ; shingles, clapboards, oak staves, and hoops. Biscuit and flour; Indian corn and meal; pork, beef, butter, cheese, potatoes, and onions. Live; stock, horses, oxen, hogs, sheep, and poultry. Our timber merchants, and dockyards, require lumber of all sorts ;•— masts, yards, squared oak timber, plank, staves, pine- timber, deals, hemp, &c. Upon reference to the list of exports from Canada, it will appear that a supply of the whole of4he preceding articles can be procured, but probably not to the extent necessary, ex- cept fish, which certainly can be got in any quantity in Nova Scotia and New Bnms- wiok, if not m Camdsk, and in the Gulf and river St. Lawrences. The fisheries of our American colonies h^ve had httlepr no direct encouragement from our government, though frequent re- presentations have been made on the sub- ject. It has been recommended to govern- ment to grant bo«nties, and to withhold from the Americans a share in the carrying to the West Indies^ fish, lumber, &c. the produce of our colonies^ (t i« % cir- II ij;; , I,. 1 !! ' * lingles, ioops. rn and cheese, sheep, kyards, yards, I, pine- jference , it will s of4he xl, but iry, ex- inany Bnins- ulfand colonies gement lent ro- c sub- overn- ithhold irrying :c. the a cir- cumstance well known, that great part of the fish which the Americans carry to the West Indies, is caught and cured in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and sold to the merchants of Boston, who, from a variety of causes, can carry them to the West In- dies, cheaper than our own colonists can. The American government have taken great pains to encourage this fish trade, by giv- ing bounties, which operate strongly against the colonists: so much so, that they are in a great measure driven out of the trade. — This they say was not the case formerly, because, for nine years, viz. from 1785 to 1794, while American ships were excluded from the West Indies, they were so well provided with articles of the first necessity, that vessels from the northern colonies were frequentl}'^ unable to find sale for their cargo esin our own islands, and were obliged to go to the foreign islands for a market. — Codfish at that time generally sold for less than five dollars per quintal, which proves its abundance, and consequently that the allowing the Americans to import fish in Atmerican ships was not a measure of ne- cessity. It seems to be decidedly the opinion of the best informed people here^ . k I i\ Si ¥ ttn* w-:i hi h'. r i * '■'' , I iiiliil ifl^ 234 that with proper encouragement from home, the West Indies could be amply supplied with all sorts of fish, at moderate prices, from Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Gaspe*. It is certain that ihc fisheries of the United States, by the encouragement given to them by their government, increase to a great degree, although they labour under many disadvantages from the local situa- tion of their country: while the British fishery, with the advantage of carrying on the fishing on their own coasts, declines every year, for want, it is presumed, of adequate encouragement from the mother country, and from the interference of the citizens of the United States, in a variety of shapes. I have in my possession a very impor- tant document, shewing the amount of the provisions and lumber imported into our West India colonies, in the years 1804, 1805, and 1806, and distinguishing the countries whence imported. By compar- I ,,!' J ill * See a^endix. — Memorial, and petition, of the mer- chants and other inhabitants of New Brunswick ; also, petition of the merchants and inhabitants of Halifax, Nova Scotia, and memorial referred to therein. 235 ing the amount of these importations with the whole produce of our North American colonies, we shall be able to judge how far these colonies are likely to supply the wants of our West India islands. The average importation of the West Indies, for the three years, ending 1806, was as follows : CORN. Bushels. United Kingdoms - > 183,168| British North American Colonies - 3,276|. America - - - ,406,1 89 j. Other countries - - - 4,435^ Making a total of 597,069| BREAD, FLOUR, &c. Cwt. Umted Kingdoms 34,498-|. British American Colonies 2,789| America - - - - 463,505^ Other countries * ^ - 7,667 Making a total of 508,460 RICE. Barrels United Kingdoms S^ British American Colonies 18 America - - - 11,740 ^ ^ Making * total of 11,8U| \ w i; ; i I' l i w- 1 ■' ''< . ■ I IV, 1 :; ' I! !■: ill I 236 BEEF and PORK: United Kingdoms British American Colonies America Other countries - Barrels. ^ 54,57 1| l,642f 47,424 Making a total of 104,013j. FISH, dry. Barrels. United Kingdoms 395 British American Colonies SS7|. America 569 Making a total of l,303f FISH, dry. Quintals. United Kingdoms S,302| British North American Colonies 10I,692|. America - - • 138,484 Other countries - - - Sfi9$^ 1 Making a total of " 246,778 FISH, pickled. Barrels. United Kingdoms 51,694| British American Colonies 27,467 America - - • 38,1 7 1| Olher countries • 990|. Making ft total of 118,323| bis. HI )0i J3| 237 BurrKR. Firkins* United Kingdoms 49,8 1 4| British American Colonies 2W America •> , - 8,041| Other countries • 80 Making a total of 58,1461 CAITLE. Number. United Kingdoms 8 British North American Colonies 8 America ... 4,175 Other countries 1,123 - 5,309 SHEEP and HOGS. Number. United Kingdoms British American Colonies 44 America - - • 3,488 Other countries - • 318 3,850 OAK and PINE BOARDS and I'lMBER. Feet. British American Colonies America Other countries 942,122 38,354,312 101,330 39,397,764 n l r I ii ■:■ v^ g 4 n^ 238 SHINGLES. British American Colonies America Other countries STAVES. British American Colonies America Other countries * ■I .' . Numbei"' 332,925 43,051,704 13,333 43,397,962 — ^— — >■■■ » ^1 Number. 525,360 17,602,354 267,500 18,395,214 r M:ij'.:'; t' ' .1' Hr'i ,'■ ■ ' : ;!| 'i;' ■p ; * An attentive perusal of the preceding statements will shew how much the West India islands are at present beholden to the United States for their supplies. In some articles, such as bread, Hour, and rice, the States have a decided advantage t these are of a superior quality; besides, their vici- nity lessens the expence of carriage. These articles might, no doubt, be carried in Bri- tish bottoms, instead of American ; but they will probably be always furnished cheaper from the States than from our pro- vinces, even supposing the quantity could be procured. This may be the case in the course of a few years, though, at present, * For a more detailed account of the imports to the West Indies, see appendix. lo the *■■ ' 239 . : ' it appears that there is more flour and bis- cuit consumed in the West Indies, than the whole exportation from our North Ame- rican colonies. Beef and pork, though supplied at pre- sent by the United States, to the extent of near half the consumption of the West In- dies, may certainly be supplied by Great Britain and her colonies, particularly in time of peace, when the great consumption of the navy will in some measure cease. — Besides, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Canada, afford abundance of fine pas- ture, particularly some of the islands in the St. Lawrence, which ^vbound with salt marshes, yielding plenty of luxuriant grass and hay, such as the Isle au Grue, where there are salt marshes of many miles ex- tent, and where many thousand head of cattle might be fed all the year round.— Even now, both summer and winter feeding is carried on there to a considerable extent. ^ Although it appears that nearly one half of the fish used in the West Indies is fur^ nished by America, yet there can be no doubt that the whole might be got from our own provinces, were the Americans * 1 1 M = lai . 242 may demonstrate, when too late, the fat^ policy of throwing into the hands of fo- reigners, a trade, which, with due encou- ragement, might have been almost entirely confined to British subjects. The supplies required by the islands cannot greatly en- crease; — and the northern colonies, from their great extent, and growing popula- tion, will every year be more and inore able to furnish every article that may be wanted. This question between the West India planters and our North American colo- nies, is the case of two children applying to an impartial mother for a preference in some particular request. She will grant that which best suits the general good of the family, however hard or unjust either party may think it. The interests of colo- nies ought ever to give way, when they in- terfere, or jare at variance witj^ the inte- rests of the Mother Country, iii 0.. ... J ;i!i"!i 84d of/o- encou- mtirely upplies itly en- s, from popula- id more may be ;st India Lti colo- ipplying rence in 11 grant good of it either of colo- they in- e inte- •M LE'lTER XVII. Quebecs 1808* THEjgenial influence of a May sun has broken the icy fetters with which Canada has been so long bound up. The winter is now past— we begin to see the face of the earth, which we have looked for, in vain, these six months. You cannot conceive what pleasure arises from discovering a piece of ground which the snow has de- serted—the eye rests upon it with delight ; our pleasurable sensations resemble those we enjoy, when, after a long absence, we meet a dear friend. A Canadian winter is truly a subject of curiosity to the natives of Britain, or of any of the southern countries of Europe. It presents a view of nature perfectly new, and a variety of phenomena so highly in- teresting, that they cannot fail to arrest the attention of any one at all conversant in natural philosophy. # ■I 1^ I 1(1 ' ¥ ; In Canada there cannot well be said to be more than two seasons of the year, sum- mer and winter. - The earth hath scarcely laid aside her mantle ^f snow, when you begin to feel the force of summer heat ; and although the weather in September is mild and pleasant, it partakes more of the sum- mer than of the autumn of temperate cli- mates. The season of vegetation seems kindly prolonged, till surprized in a man- ner at once by the return of winter, with- out much of what may be called autumn weather. Frost is felt in October, but the sun still retains enough of power to make the weather, during the day, tolerably warm. During the month of November the frost becomes daily more severe, and snow begins to fall. Your house is now put upon the winter establishment; stoves are put up in your rooms, and in your passages; the windows are well secured and made tight ; and you lay aside your summer dress, and adopt flannels and furs. One snow storm now succeeds another, till the whole face of the country is co- vered. The eye in vain looks for a bit of I* :: i said to r, sum- carcely en you at ; and is mild tie sum- rate cli- 1 seems a man- ir, with- autumn the sun lake the warm, iber the nd snow )ut upon are put passages ; id made ler dress, another, •y is co- a bit of 245 ground to rest upon — the trees alone re- main visible — the chilling grasp of winter i| every where felt, and every precaution is taken to resist its effects. There is something very awful and ter- rific in a Canadian snow storm, A heavy fall of snow is generally accompanied by a violent gale of wind, which driving along the snow with immense velocity, and form- ing a thousand eddies and turnings, accord- ing to the inequalities of the surface, and resistance consequent thereon, you are able to form an idea of the velocity of the wihd —it becomes, as it were, visible. The most severe snow storms they experience in Ca- nada, come from the north-east, the frozen regions of Hudson's bay and Labrador. During summer the woods of Canada abound with birds of a great variety of sorts and sizes — partridges, woodcocks, pigeons, and singing birds without number. The lakes and rivers abound with aquatic birds, such as ducks, geese, snipes, &c. Some of these pass the whole summer in Canada; others, such as the pigeons, are only found at certain seasons, as they pass from the southern to the more northerly parts of the I If I. I Ml Wi ^^^siB 1 ! 1 ' ^ 4 I !}l| '^mm, !lil 111' :M i;'. ; i: I 246 American contirieht, and vice versa. No sooner does the frost set in, than almost all the feathered tribes take the alarm, an^ leave the country ; even the hardy crow is obliged to take himself oflT, A species of partridge, called the pine partridge (from its living on certain parts of the pine tree, of which it tastes very strongly), alone re- mains — but it is very rarely seen. Few quadrupeds are to be seen ; some hares arc found, but to see them is difficult, for they havechanged their colour to as pure a white as the snow in which they lie— a kind pre- caution in nature to conceal them from their enemies. Many other quadrupeds, no doubt, remain in this country during the winter. Like the bear, they probably do not change their lodgings while the snow 18 on the ground, but remain stationary, an4 in a torpid state. The Canadians change their appear-r ance as much as a complete change of dress can do, The hat and bonnet roitg^ are laid aside, and they use fur caps, fur cloaks, fur gloves, and worsted hose, over, as well as under boots. Thus defended, they yen-! tur^ with impunity iptp the severest frost. I. No nost all Ti, an^ crow is scies of ; (from le tree,, lone re^ . I'ew ares arc for they a white ind pre- m from Irupeds, during robably esnow iry, an4 appear-* of dress are laid cloaKs, as well ey yen-: frost. 247 The snow soon covers the ground to the depth of several feet, and wheel carriages can no longer be used : the whet s would sink so deep, that it would be impossible to advance a step. In place, therefore, of wheel carriages, a sort of sledge is used, which in Canada is called a cariole. It passes over the snow without sinking deep. It is placed on what they call runners, which resemble in form, the irons of a pair of skaits, and rise up in front in the same manner, and for the same purposes. The cariole is generally from nine to twelve inches above the snow. Some, called high runners, are about eighteen inches. The body of the cariole varies in shape, accord- ing to the fancy of the owner. It is some- times like the body of a phaeton, some- times like a chair or gig, sometimes like a vis-a-vis, and sometimes like a family coach or chariot. The cariole, in short, is the name for all sorts of vehicles used in win- ter, from a market cart, up to a state coach. The generality of them are light, open carriages, drawn by one horse. The snow, i ■. I ■ .; '1 i f I , I I k 'ft. \'l 248 after being trodden on for some time, be- comes compact enough to bear the horse, and gives very Uttle resistance to the cari- ole. Some people are extremely fond of driving out in carioles ; for my own part, I think it is a very unpleasant conveyance, from the constant successon of inequalities which are formed in the snow hy the cari- oles. These inequalities the Canadians call cahots (from the French Avord cahoter, to joltj, and they certainly are very well named, for you are jolted as if you crossed a field with very deep furrows and high narrow ridges. The moli< n is not unlike rowi;jg in a boat against a head-sea^^a. thing that requires to be only once tried, to be disliked. As no other sort of carriage can, how- ever, be used in this country, custom and example reconcile one to it : all ranks use them, of one sort or other. Sometimes you see them conveying a dashing buck up oie street and down another at a gallop, to the no small annoyance of people who are ond of keeping their bones whole, a thing hose gentlenaen seem very CtU'eless about. 249 Sometimes you see the close covered family ones, conveying an old lady quietly and steadily to church, or to have a little gos- siping with a friend ; and sometimes you see them coming in from the country con- veying beef and mutton, turkies and geese, for the supply of the market. When the navigation of the St. Law- rence becomes impracticable, little busi- ness is done by the merchants, who then appropriate a considerable part of their time to amusements. It is necessary to do something to give a little variety to the sameness of a six months' winter. They have parties of pleasure in town, and par- ties of pleasure in the country, in which you have dancing, music, and the social en- joyments of conviviality. There is a public assembly once a fort^ night, which is very well attended. If you are fond of dancing, you have an oppor- tunity of indulging in it ; if you like a sO" her rubber, you find very good whist play- ers. The civil and military gentlemen mix very cordially together. Such of the Ca- nadians as can afford it, and have an incli- nation, join in the amusemei^ls that are !j I i ' I < m ¥ If I 1^ 'WM 1 1' i . i m • ill k '' l;-;!. f ^ u - :?i 250 going forward, particularly the assemblies and dancing parties ; and, indeed, they are an acquisition, as many of the ladies want neither beauty nor the accomplishments necessary for their gracing an assembly. One should naturally suppose that very bad consequences would be likely to arise from being heated by dancing in so cold a climate. This, however, is not the case: both the ladies and gentlemen in the cold- est weather, are dressed in the assembly- room as thinly as they are in England in summer ; and the rooms are very comfort- able, being kept moderately warm by a stove. Immediately after dancing, and while very warm, the company go into the open air in the middle of the night while the cold is extreme (from 20 to 30 de^ grees below the freezing point), without next day feeling the least inconvenience. It is true, they take every precaution neces- sary, by clothing themselves very warmly. People are less liable to suffer from cold in Canada than they are in England, not- withstanding the greater severity of the weather. Many reasons are assigned for this fact. The Canadians take care not to lies are rant ents r r • very arise M a case : cold- nbly- nd in nfort- by a , and ,0 the while .0 de- thout ience. iieces- mly. cold not" f the d for ot to 251 expose themselves to the external air with-^ out being warmly clotlied; particular at^ tcntion is paid to keeping the feet, the hands, and the head warm^ Tlie air is extremely dry in winter, being deprived otits moisture by congelation ; the intense frost causes naturally a deposition of the aqueous particles, in the shape of hoar frost. Now, it has been accurately ascer- tained and proved by experiments, that cold idri/ air is not so good a conductor of heat from our bodies as cold moist air ; it follows, therefore, that the thermometer may shew a very low temperature in cold dry air, such as we have here, without our being sen- sible of a great degree of cold; and, that in cold moist air, such as you have in Eng- land, the thermometer may not be under the freezing point, and ye^. the quantity of caloric or heat carried off from your body, be greater than if the thermometer shewe4 a temperature many degrees below freezr ing. Were the effect of the cold here on one's feelings, to increase in proportion a^ the thermometer falls, and go as far beyond what it is in England, as the real quantum pf caloric in the atmosphere is more there ! < 252 •It H than here, it would be impossible to exist in this country; but the evil carries its cure along with it, the frost deprives the air of its moisture, and consequently decreases its power of carrying off from our body the heat it contains. If we wish to know how the weather is to affect us, we should con- sult a hygrometer as well as a thermometer. When the cold dry air of this country enters your apartment, and is warmed by the heat of the stove, its drying power be- comes very great. To be convinced that this is the case, it is only necessary to ob- serve how much the furniture of the house suffers from it. The very pannels of the doors shrink so much as almost to fall out of the frame, and the frame itself shrinks to such a degree that the bolt loses its hold. I recollect to have remarked the very same effects from the hot easterly wind, which blows occasionally, in the end of summer, in the southern countries of Eu- rope. The Italians call it the siroc wind. It is equally known and dreaded, for your sensations are extremely disagreeable ; the effect on furniture is the same as that of 253 the air of this country, heated by the stove ; but its effects on your body are much more severe. The skin, when the westerly wind blows, is covered with a gentle moisture, but as soon as the easterly or siroc wind blows, the skin becomes dry and parched, and your sensations are oppressive, and undescribable. When the air here is very much heated by the stoves, you feel in some degree the same sensations and effects ; but you have a remedy at hand : you have only to open a door, and you get a fresh supply of cold air. There is no avoiding the siroc wind — let your doors and windows be ever so tight before it begins to blow, it soon makes a passage for itself through the cre- vices of the shrunk pannels. An Englishman can with difficulty form an idea of the cold of Canada, or of its effects, till he feels and sees them. The coldest weather is generally during the month of January. The thermometer fell last January to 60 degrees below the freez- ing point, and it continued at that tem- perature for several days. The medium temperature in December and January is about 2*2 degrees below freezing. :'' I ■ 1i j hi w . 1 kl, J; '1 254 About the beginning of December all the small rivers are frozen so completely, and covered with snow, that bridges for passing them, are no longer necessary, and very little attention is paid to keeping in the summer roads. Where they are hol- low, or where there are fences, the roads are so completely filled up with snow, that they are on a level with the fields on each side. ■;•<- -.-- -■ .'- •■■-.-- . The country people who first form the winter roads on the snow, direct their Ca- rioles by the nearest course where the snow is most level ; and they go in as straight a line as possible, to the place to which they are destined. They put un branches of trees on each side the new track, as a direc- tion to others who wish to go that way. These they call des balises, or beacons. When they can conveniently follow the course or bed of a river it is generally done, because the surface is evener than over the fields, and there is less snow on them, as they do not freeze till after a con- siderable quantity of snow has fallen on the fields. Even the s^reat river St. Lawrence is VI, i: of irec- ay. Ions. the [ally [ban on ;on- on 255 : J arrested in its course. It freezes com- pletely over, a few leagues above Quebec, and serves occasionally as a road to Mon- treal. It seldom freezes over, opposite to Quebec, or in the bason. As the river narrows here, the current is increased, and th6 tide sets up and down with such force, that it generally keeps the floating masses of ice in motion. When the river freezes over, opposite to Quebec, it is called, in the language of the country, a pont, because it answers the purpose of a bridge to the peo- ple who live below Quebec, and who then bring up provisions, and fire-wood in great quantities. -^ • - <" A variety of circumstances must com- bine to form a pont; when many very large masses of ice happen to come in contact, and fill the whole space be- tween one side of the river and the other, they become stationary. If this hap- pens at neap tides, and in calm weather, the frost fixes the whole, and it becomes a solid mass before the rising: tides derange it ; when it has stood a few days, it generally acquires strength enough to resist every r ■1.: IS -»<• .256 impulse it may receive, till the warmth of the April sun affects it. , All these circumstances so seldom hap- pen at the same time, that it is about ten years since the river took opposite to Que- bec. This year, however, I have had the pleasure of seeing it in that state, and it certainly is an interesting and curious sight. For the distance of eight miles, you see an immense sheet of ice, as smooth as a mir- ror. Thousands of people crowd upon it every day, and booths are erected for their entertainment. In one quarter, you see numbers of people enjoying the amusement of skaiting; in another, you see carioles driving in different directions ; for the ice is so strong, that horses go on it with the greatest safety. Sometimes you see cariole races : they go over the ice with great swift- ness. In short, when the pont, takes (as they term it), it occasions a kiiid of jubilee in Quebec. In one point of view, it is a sub- ject of real rejoicing to the city ; it is ac- companied with substantial advantages.— Provisions of all kinds, and firewood, a no tl nth of 1 bap- ut ten ) Que- ad the and it s sight, see an amir- apon it or their you see isenient carioles the ice nth the I cariole at swift- (as they bilee in a sub- it is ac- tages.— )d, a no 2^7 less necessary article in this country, fall in price, from an increase in quantity, as soon as the pont enables the people in the coun- try below Quebec, to bring their surplus stock to market, in their carioles, without the expence and risk of passing the river in canoes. These canoes are not such as have been before described, used in the north- west trade. They are one solid piece of wood, the trunk of a large tree scooped out, and formed in the outside something like a boat ; some of them are very large, carrying easily 15 or 20 people. The passing of the St. Lawunce in ca- noes, in the middle of winter, is a very ex- traordinary operation. The time of high water is chosen, when the large masses of ice are almost stationary. The canoe is launched into the water, where there is an opening: the people are provided with ropes> boat-hooks, and paddles. When they come to a sheet of ice, they jump out of the canoe upon it ; draw the canoe up after them ; push it to the other side of the sheet of ice ; launch it into the water; pad- dle till they come to another sheet of ice ; s -^ >-^ 1 * I) ^ m ■j " I i t #1 m I';- ;i ■(' ii "8 'l 258 again haul up the canoe, cross the ice, and again hiunch— and so on till they reach the other side. You see twenty to thirty ca- noes crossing in this way at the same time ; and you cannot help trembling for them, when you see two irtimense masses of ice coming together, and th-^y between, appa- rently in the greatest danger of being crushed to pieces ; but the people extricate themselves with great dexterity. Custom has taught them to avoid the danger which seems to threaten them with destruction : they dexteVously jump upon the first piece of ice with which they come in contact, and haul the canoe aftfer them. I have never, myself, beeuAinder any neces- sity to pass the river in this way ; and I must own that it seemed fraught with so much danger, that I never from mere curiosity was induced to attempt it. One might, by the aid of the people, escape drowning, if one even did fall into the water; but I conceive. that a ducking in the river St. Lawrence, in the month of January, and remaining half an hour or more in wet clothes, would be likely to put cCf and ach the irty ca- le time ; r them, ) of ice I, appa- if being jxtricate 259 a period to one's existence as effectually as drowning. In my next I shall enable you to form some idea of Canadian winter travelling, and make you acquainted with some phe- nomena incident to that season of the year. '-'-i' void the em with np upon ey come :fer them, lyneces- f ; and I ; with so im mere it. One escape into the eking in iionth of hour or :ly to put •X> ' Vij', 4- ** 1 ■ f ■ l.»< /Mi • >. ; r^ ,, V "'i«" ', h k < ■.>■- } fe IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■10 ^^^ BH.4 >tt Ui 122 £f U£ 12.0 m M ^, o9^ Photographic Sciences Corporalion 23 WBT MAIN STRUT WEBSTER, N.Y. USSO (716)872-4503 37 ,V <^ ^ '^^ >v^ ^<^ ^ I If ',!: 11 ■ ft Hil m •■ t; ^1 ill 1* i m ^60 LETTER XVIII. QueUe, 1808. To sec the Canadian winter in all its ma- jesty, and to feel it in all its rigour, it is necessary to take a journey into the differ- ent parts of the country. This I have done. I have made a tour as high up as Montreal, and gone into* the province of Vermont, in the United States. Lake Champlain, 120 miles in length, was frozen over : we crossed it on the ice. * Having provided myself with a good horse and cariole, and laid in a stock of provisions and liquors, and, moreover, hav- ing taken the necessary precautions to guard against the severity of the climate, I left Quebec in one of the coldest mornings I had ever experienced. The wind blew fresh from the north-west; the sun shone bright, and glistened on the dry pellucid snow, which the wind raised into the air, uebee, 1808. il its ma- ;our, it is he differ- s I have gh up as evince of I. Lake ras frozen 1 a good stock of >ver, hav- ^ to guard ite, I left omings I ind blew an shone pellucid > the air, 361 whirling it about, and dashing or darting on my face the minute crystals, like a shower of needle points, occasioning a smarting sensation, which made me feel more keenly the severity of the cold. Who- ever has travelled in Canada in the winter season, will be at no loss to recognize the kind of morning I describe. What a strange 6gure a Canadian win- ter traveller is, wrapped up in his various vestments ! In addition to the usual num- ber of coats and waistcoats, I had a very large double clo^k, a large fur cap, and fur tippet; and, what added greatly to my comfort and defence against the cold wind, I had la very large muff, in which was often obliged to bury my face when the wind blew keen ; for you will recollect, that as the cariole is an open carriatge, it affords no defence fro'm the cold. With all the clothing and coverings you can put on^ still you can wijth difficulty keep yourself warm. When a journey of any extent is to h^ made, a cariole must be used ; but if you wish to deviate from the public beaten tri^ck, pr to go into the woods, or cross r;: :; • m Hit rJ." ^ >■•' I' ■ i ■' I !-■'> »i i" m (,■;.' *»!'ilt i! I'iJIill' 262 fields, either from necessity or for amuse*> ment, you must use what are called mow shoes. They are made of a kind of net- work, fixed on a frame, shaped like a boy's paper kite ; they are about two feet long, and 18 inches broad, and therefore take in so much of the surface "of the snow, that you sink but a very few inches. The military, in Canada, are all provided with snow shoes, and are marched out on them, that it may be no novelty in case of their taking the field in winter. For the same reason they are sometimes encamped amongst the snow. You can take a great deal of exercise in winter, without being fatigued, and can walk with ease and agility under a load of waistcoats and coats, under which you would sink in summer. When a person proceeds to take off all his coverings, it puts one in mind of the grave-digger in Hamlet, to whom modern actors have given many more waistcoats than even a Canadian grave« digger in winter would require. The winter travelling in Canada is some* times very expeditious. It is surprising with what speed a good Canadian horse %r\ ' amusec lied snow I of net- :e a boy's eet long, ore take le snow, r inches, provided d out on n case of For tlie ncamped exercise and can 3, load of ich you * person s, it puts Hamlet, n many an grave- is some* irprising in horse 263 win travel, drawing a cariole over the ice. There have been instances of a single horse having drawn a cariole, with two people in it, no less than 90 miles in twelve hours ; which is more than mail-coach rate, with an their changes. When this happens, the roads mustb6 very smooth and hard, which is generally the case when a severe frost has succeeded a thaw. The Canadian horse is a remarkably hardy animal : his best pace is a trot. He is accustomed to a great deal of bad usage and hard woxic, and he is the most willing creature in the world (as the jockeys term it), for he never refuses the draught. You will see them brought from the country in- to Quebec in the coldest weather, and left standing in the open air without covering, for hours together, while their owners are transacting their business, or drinking in a public house ; and they seem not to be the worse for it. In the winter time the Canadian horse, like all the other quadrupeds of the coun- try, acquires an increased quantity of fur to protect him from the cold ; and the Ca« nadians never use the currying comb.—* •il&iiai! .J i 'J r.-i k .i I - il-l'i ' f ' <■ •! 264 When the horses have been heated by fast driving, in a cold day, they appear to have a sort of icicle at every hair, and really make a very grotesque appearance ; and you frequently see icicles two or three inches in length, hanging at their noses. * Previous to my commencing my tour, there had been a heavy fall of snow for some days, so that the roads were in bad order for expeditious travelling, I seldom ■went more than from thirty to forty miles a day. I had not proceeded far, ere Ifound the great difference, in point of beauty, between the winter and summer scenery.— «• Instead of the fine variety, which, in sum^ mer, presented itself, in tracing the course of the river,— the gaiety, the liveliness of the moving waters, and passing vessels— i- the fine tints of the forest, and of the corn-field— rthe labourer employed in the business of the farm— every surrounding object reflected from the surface of the river; nothing now was to be spen but one continued solid plain — one indiscrimi- pate field of snow; — no rivers — no wa- ters—no ships— not an animal in view, man nor beast, except now and t^hen a muf'i Jh ••)- 203 fled-up traveller, hurrying along, as if anxi- ous to get to a place of shelter. The St. Lawrence was so full of shelv« ing masses of ice, which the frost had fixed in that position, that a road could not be made upon it; we continued therefore in the summer road, till we came to the river du Loup, which gave -us for several leagues a pleasant road, free from cahots. From the river du Loup to the river MaskinongS, the distance is short, and we followed the course 'of the Maskinong6 for several leagues, till ' ivecame to the St. Lawrence, on which we fo^nd a good road as far as Berthier. Berthier is one of the best cultivated and most beautiful settlements in Canada. In summer it bears some resemblance t opart of Gloucestershire, on the banks of the Severn. -—In the St. Lawrence, opposite to lieri. thier, are several islands of considerable size, abounding with very fine timber, and yields ing rich pasture for cattle. In summer, they have a charming effect ; but, in win- - ter, all is dreary and deathlike— -nothing is Jeft biit the mere skeleton of a wood. W^fch way soever ^ou direct ^our at-» ; r ,.1 :»ifi<] w-mm u ■ t 1 '.:. • » ,1, ■:.. 1i 111 1 ■ f, i-," • f '^1 • f ii- 1 9 iMm 266 tention, nothing presents itself to your ob* servation, but ice and snow; so that you may suppose there can be very little variety in a winter journey. After the first day, your curiosity is perfectly satisfied. The country people, pass their time in winter, very idly. Their only care seems to be to keep themselves warm; and their principal occupation is cutting and bring* ing home firewood. They make a journey to Quebec or Montreal occasionally, to dis* pose of any surplus provisions they may have, and procure some of the comforts of life; such as replenishing their rum bottle, and renewing their stock of snuff, pipes> and tobacco. Those who live on the banks of the St. Lawrence, where the tide ebbs and flows, occupy themselves occasionally in fishing, or catching a species of fish, which come up the river in the winter time, in great abundance, and form a seasonable supply for those who will take the trouble to at- tend to it. They are from four to nine inches long, and resemble a cod in every respect, except m i'i, I )ur ob« latyou r little ;he first (fied. time in semsto id their [ bring- journey , to dis* ey may iforts of I bottle, pipes> ;he St. flows, fishing, come n great supply to at- ;s long, except 267 size. The Canadians call them petite Morue; the English call them Tommy c ee or four feet, should propagate when at ;he length of one foot, as that it should do so at the length of six inches. The manner of catching these fish is to cut holes in the ice, and put down either nets or lines. Between Quebec and Three Rivers immense quantities are taken . They are easily preserved without salt ; the frost '^i-i;'- »-'\^ !il -h 268 answers the purpose; and you may see them piled upon the ice in large quantities, all frozen. It is a remarknble thing, that the Canadian horses eat them . One can scarcely help smiling at the ideaof ahorse eating Jish', bat, you may rest assured, it is a fact. Great quantities of these fish are caught at Quebec, with lines. The manner of do» ing so is odd enough : A hole is dug in the ice, and a temporary house is built over it, large enough to hold half a dozen people, and a stove to keep them warm. Those who cannot afford to purchase deals to make a house, substitute large pieces of ice, with which they form a kind of defence from the weather. The middle of the night is the best time for fishing. They place a strong light near the hole, which attracts the attention of the fish, and brings them round the hole, in large quantities ; so that they are caught as fast as they can ba pulled in. These houses are*erected on the river St. Charies, in great numbers ; and have a singular appearance in a dark night, particularly those made of ice, the trans-* parency of which, gives them tli^ effect of SQ , inany lanterns, 26& It is a singular fkct, that these fish, if not bruised, will, when put into cold water several days after they are caught, return to life, and swim about as well as ever. At the time they are caught, they are thrown into a basket, and in the course of a mi" nute or two, they become frozen sti^. When carried home, and put into cold water, they become thawed, and begin to swim. How long they would continue out of the water in the frozen state, and afterwards shew signs of life, I cannot determine ; but I can speak to the fact, for several days. I have tried some that had been taken, and been in a frozen state for eight days, but they did not recover, or shew any signs of life. It is a curious circumstance : certainly the vital principle had not been destroyed. Perhaps the ice, or sudden freezing, had not penetrated much below the surface; and, by forming a kind of covering, hav- ing the properties of a non-conductor, may have preserved the vital heat from escap- ing into the cold air. Perhaps, a kind of torpor came on, like that of the bear and other winter sleepers. Probably the cause is beyond our reach, for nature generally li II iii ''it ' ■ ' ' ■" (I , I Vi' ■ !H m 270 \' draws a veil betwixt us and her roost ex« traordinary operations. On my arrival at Montreal, I found the j^ood folks employed in precisely the same way, that those I had left in Quebec, passed . their time. In all countri^, people pass their leisure hours pretty much alike ; that is, they dedicate them to amusement. In Canada, as most of their winter hours are leisure hours, there is, of course, some in- genuity necessary to give such variety to their amusements as may prevent them from becoming insipid by frequent repeti* tion. Hence, in Quebec and Montreal, to the regulariown parties, are added, irregular country parties. Pic-nic feasts, where every one carries with him a ready-dressed dish, are very common; and as the place of rendezvous is generally a few miles out of town, the ladies and gentlemen have the pleasure of a little carioHng before dinner; the roads, it is true^ are oflen abominably bad, being a constant succession ofcahots, in which you are jolted most unmercifully ; not to say any thing of cariols being very frequently upset, and their contents, ladies, gentlemen, soup, poultry, or roast beef. 371 tumbled into the snow, to the no small amusement of the rest of the party. It is also any thing but excessively pleasant f after having dined, danced, supped, and passed the evening in festive glee, enlivened by the song and the catch, to drive home in the middle of the night, let the wind blow* and the snow drift as much as they please. Besides, there sometimes come on such dreadful storms^ that neither man nor horse can shew their face to them. The conse- quence is, the party remain all night; the fiddlers again strike up the merry dance, •and the whist players again cut for partners; what cannot be cured, must be endured. Day-light comes at last, and enables the party to take the road homeward with- out the danger of losing their way, which most probably would have been the case with some of them had they attempted it in the course of the night. The little hardships, disasters, or inconveniences of these country parties, give a zest however to the more elegant amusements of tlie town. A stranger in Canada, who has had a respectable introduction, is well received. ■:::!|i: 'M I i't il. jfi'f I Hi I t't fi ':■■ I ■; : m I ■ in 2721 And tn^ets every where thei greatest \i(i§^ pitalitj. To travel from Canada to the tJnited States, is, in England, considered to be a most arduous and perilous undertaking. In truth, it is not without its dangers and diffi- culties, particularly in winter; yet, with all the inconveniences attending it, the journey is performed very frequently. The Ame- ricans are constantly coming into Canada, particularly to Montreal. They bring pro-^ Tisions, and various sorts of dry goods, ge- nerally in Sleighs, which resemble the Cana« diain cariole, except that they are placed on high runners, and are larger and more com« modious than the cariole. The high run- ners give them one gre tad vantage, which is, that they do not form n the roads those in- equalities the Canadi ns call cahots, which jolt 3rou so much, ar . are one of the prin- cipal drawbacks t winter travelling in Canada. I procured one of the Yankie sleighs, as they are usually termed, and left Montreal in a very cold , hazy morning. Our first stage was from Montreal cross the St. Lawrence to Laprairie, a distance of about nine miles. it .' I. » 27^ After travelling about two hours on the river, we began to think it was more than time to reach the other side. We continued our course for half an hour more; still no appearance of the place of our destination. In fact, we had lost our way. The weather was so thick and hazy we could see but a very short space, and our driver had struck into a wrong track. There were a variety of tracks on the river, formed by the people coming from different parts of the opposite side, with fire-wood, &c. for Montreal. In- deed, I reckoned from 2 to 300 sleighs on that part of tlie river alone, all directing their course to Montreal. On inquiring of some of these people, we found that instead of crossing the river we had taken a direction upwards, and were very near the rapids, a little below a part of the country inhabited by a tribe called the Caghnawaga Indians, at a con- siderable distance from Montreal. We had to retrace our steps; and in about two hours more, we arrived at Laprairie. This circumstance is trifling in itself; I mention it merely to shevv you the lia- bility to go astray, when travelling over a T n »■■ ■ i'-il] mm iiiUl-A i; •; \r-\1 *r, ■' fr- (,. i| r. 274 level surface of snow. You can hhtdty imagine any thing more easy than to cross from one side of a river to another, over a track which we had been accustomed to look at every day, and yet, we went a con- siderable way out of our road, in a very short space of time. It was a good lesson for us, as we had to go on Lake Chaniiplain ; where, if we once lost ourselves, it might be long enough before we again found out the right road. After leaving Laprairie, we very soon got into a primeval forest, through which a road has been cut as far as the American boundary line; and it is continued onwards to Lake Champlain. This is the principal communication in this district, between Canada, and the United States. For many miles the country is very level, and com- pletely covered with large timber, prin- cipally pines. I saw no cross roads, so that it is a kind of pass that might be de- fended with very few men. The vicinity of Montreal to the United States, encourages the soldiers occasionally to desert, by the road we passed; to pre- vent which, a few invalids are stationed in % ■v,i-..|: I >>: Sin hsLtdiy m to cross her, over a stomed to rent a con- , in a very ;ood lesson 'hamplain ; it might be nd out the ) very soon 5h which a American pd onwards 5 principal between For many and com- ber, prin- roads, so yht be de- le United casionally to pre- :itioned in 275 the wood ; they live in log-houses, not tlie most comfortably in the world. There is another road by way of St. John's j but the deserters avoid it on account of the gar- rison or fort. As we approached the Ame- rican boundary, we found a few settlements, what the Americans call a pitch. They cut down some trees, make a log-house, sow some corn ; next year they cut down more trees, and sow more corn^ and so on till they produce something in the style of a farm. Instead of cutting down the trees, the Americans very frequently ring them, as they term it, which is cutting a section of the bark quite round : soon after which the tree decays. We saw several potash manufactories as we approached the Lake, and the woods are continued close to the water. We found near the Lake a kind of public-house, where we stopped during the night. Next morning we could not proceed, because, during the whole night it had blown very fresh, accompanied with a heavy fall of snow, which continued till near mid-day ; and as every track on the Lake was covered, we could not venture to go upon it, our conductor not being well I ;. ilili ill.:.- '4 i-j ii. k •■■ ii '5'ca. acquainted with the different bearings of the land marks. The Lake, though 120 miles long, is not broad, seldom above 10 to 15 miles ; and there are a great many islands and head- lands, which direct the course of the pilot in summer, and the cariole or sleigh driver in winter. So soon as the weather moderated, we set out on the Lake ; and took a guide for some time, till we should fall in with some one going our way, or discover a track in the snow to direct us. Travelling on Lake Cham plain, ij^, at all times, really dangerous ; and I would not advise any one to attempt it, if it can be avoided ; which may generally be done by lengthening the route. Instead of going on the Lake to Burlington, or Skeensboro, you may go by way of St. John's, Wind- mill-point, and Sandbar, to Burlington, and from thence to Skeensboro. It is very common, for sleigh, horses, and men, to fall through the ice, where the water is some hundred feet deep ; and you have no warning of your danger till the horses drop in, pulling the sleigh after them; luckily the weak places are of no Mki eatings of long, is not niles; and and head- f the pilot jigh driver erated, we i guide for with some a track in 1, ii», at all would not ' it can be e done by of going ceensboro, I's, Wind- igton, and lorses, and vhere the ; and you ;r till the igh after are of no 277 great extent; you extricate yourself from the sleigh as quickly as possible, and you find the ice generally strong enough to sup- port you, though it would not bear the weight of the horses. You instantly lend your aid in pulling out the horses, and in endeavouring to save them, which is dono in a manner perfectly unique, and which will require the greatest stretch of your faith in my veracity, to believe — the horses are strangled, to save their lives. When the horses fall through the ice (there are almost always two in an Ame- rican sleigh), the struggles and exertions they make, serve only to injure and sink them ; for, that they should get out of themselves, is, from the nature of the thing, perfectly impossible. When horses go on the Lake, they always have, round their necks, a rope with a running noose. I ob- served that our horses had each of them such a rope ; and on inquiry, found out for what purpose it was intended. The mo- ment the ice breaks, and the horses sink into the water, the driver, and tiiose in the sleigh, get out, and catching hold of the ropes, pull them with all their force, which, in a very few seconds, strangles the horses ; 1:1 - j 1 , 'i •1 . ■ 'M- 278 and no sooner does this happen, than they rise in the water, float on one side, are drawn out on strong ice, the noose of the rope is loosened, and respiration recom-r mences ; in a few minutes the horses are on their feet, as much alive as ever. This operation has been known to be performed two or three times a day, on the same horses i for, when the spring advances, the weak places in the Lake, become very nu- merous; and the people, whose business leads them often on it, frequently meet with apcidents. They tell you that horses which are often on the lake, get so accus-^ tomed to being hanged, that they think no- thing at all of it. Pray, tell me, do you not think that this is one of those stories that travellers imagine they ma}^ tell with impunity, hav- ing a licence ? — Seriously, you are wrong. — ► Though this manner of saving horses, and getting them out of the water, appears ex- traordinary, yet, I assure you, the thing is very common^; and known to every one who has been accustomed to travel on the lakes and rivers of this country, during win^ ter. The attempt however does not always succeed. It sometimes happens, that botl^ than they side, are ose of the m reconiT horses are er. This performed the same Mices, the 5 very nu- business itly meet at horses so aecusn think no^ hink that travellers nity, hav- wrong. — P rses, and pears ex- thing is ^erj one ?1 on the ing winT t always bat botl^ 279 sleigh and horses go to the bottom ; and the men too, if they cannot extricate them- selves in time. There was an instance of it on Lake Champlain, a few days before \ Grossed it. These weak places of the ice, which prove so treacherous, have been later in freezing, than the surrounding ice. In all lakes, and large bodies of fresh water, there are some places which never freeze ; and some which freeze much later than others. It is to be accounted for, probably, in this way. The great body of the water, is of a higher temperature than the atmosphere, although the surface has been cooled down below the freezing point, and become ice. The water is constantly giving out its heat to the atmosphere, at some particular place, which tlicreby is kept from freezing for a considerable time ; by and by, when the frost becomes very intense, that place at length freezes, but does not accjuire the strength necessary to support the horses. There is another source of danger to the traveller on the lakes, which it is dif- ficult to account for: viz. large cracks or openings, which run from one side of the Jake to the other ; some of them, six feet III ■t I 111 y ■ ■ i if1Si _ J T! 280 broad at least. I had not proceeded many miles on the lake before I met with a crack; but instead of an opening, I found that at this place the ice had shelved up to the height of several feet ; and I learned that this was an indication of there being an opening further on. At the distance of eight or ten miles from this place, I was surprised to observe the driver put his horses to their full speed : I could see no cause for it. In a few minutes, however, I saw the crack or opening, about five feet broad : we were at it in a moment ; it was impossible to check the horses, or to stop and consider of the practicability of passing, or of the conse- quences ; the driver, without consulting any one, had made up his mind on the sub- ject,— the horses took the leap, and cleared the opening, carrying the sleigh and its contents with them. The concussion on the opposite side was so great, however, that the runners of the sleigh were broken, and there was a great chance of our being thrown, by the violence of the concussion, out of the sleigh, into the gulf we had crossed : this had very nearly taken place; but I was fortunate enough to regain my 281 seat. By the help of some cords, we re- paired our damage, and proceeded on our journey. We met with several other cracks, but as they were not in general above a foot or two in breadth, we passed them, without fear or accident. When the ice is cleared of snow, which was frequently the case, I could see that it was about a foot in thickness ; yet it made a crackling noise as we went along, and seemed to give to the weight of the sleigh and horses, as we advanced, which produced sensations not very pleasant. There are a great many islands in Lake Champlain, which are generally inhabited; you find inns on them, too, where you can get provisions, and beds if necessary^. I shall embrace another opportunity of mak- ing some observations to you about this Lake and the surrounding country ; but for the present, shall, in my next letter,' com- municate to you some further particulars relative to the Canadian winter. i 1 >J j'- !j ijii' It < I' \\'i '-M .■• 28^ LETTER XIX, Quebec, 1809^ The range of the thermometer in Canada, is very extensive. The heat in summer runs into as great an extreme, as the cold in winter. The range, during the last twelve months, has been no less than 120 degrees ; and, what is not a little surprising, it has reached 60 degrees precisely, on each side of the freezing point (32). In summer the thermometer rose to 92, and in winter it fell to 28 below zero. I have been told, that the cold has been known in this coun- try to freeze mercury, the thermometer hav- ing fallen below 40 under zero. The severity of the cold has its advan- tages as well as disadvantages. The quan- tity of snow with which the ground is co^ vered, renders it necessary for the farmer to house all his cattle and sheep, and to put j^ m ' iJll 'r 283 > his hay, straw, and con, under cover.-— So soon as the ground is covered, and the frost completely set in, the cattle and sheep, which are destined for winter use, are kill- ed; and also poultry of all kinds, before they have lost any of the fat they had ac- quired during the summer and autumn. — No salt is necessary to preserve them : they only require to be exposed to the frost for a short time, and they become as hard as ice. When in this state, the poultry, and indeed the beef and mutton too, are packed in casks or boxes aniongst snow, and at the end of four or five months, are still per- fectly sound and good. I have to-day (10th May) eat of a fowl which has been killed upwards of four months ; and I really think it could not easily be distinguished from a fowl killed but a few days. Frozen meat is thawed by keeping it in cold wa- ter about twelve hours— warm water would yender it useless. After the meat is hard frozen, the prin- cipal thing to be attended to, is, to preserve it from the external air when the tempera- ture is above the freezing point, which is frequently the case in March and April. — • 1 1 1 ■:V\ .i'#)i Il' ■ 31 284 Snow being a good non-conductor of heat^ answers this purpose : blankets, too, are fre« quently used. The frost not only preserve* beef, mutton, and poultry, but ^isojish^ so long as you can keep it in a temperature be- low freezing. The fish market, during winter, is pretty well supplied, owing, not a little, to the great industry of the people of the United States, who come even from Bos- ton to Montreal, a distance of 420 miles. Provisions of all kinds are more plenti- ful, and consequently cheaper, in winter than in summer. The market is supplied from a greater extent of country. The lakes and rivers being frozen, and the peo- ple without work, they briug lo market all sorts of meat and poultry, from a great dis- tance.. Being hard iVozen, it can be stowed in their carioles without receiving the least injury from the great length of carriage. Good beef and mutton are sold at from 3d. to 4d. per lb. ; good fat fowls at 20d. to 2s. per couple ; turkeys 2s. to 2s. 6d. each ; geese and ducks in proportion : so that the expense of housekeeping in these articles, is not great in winter. In summer, as meat is supplied in the towns by the m m i\ 285 towa butcliers alone, the price advances considerably. The great heat of summer renders it impossible to bring meat from any considerable distance. It is a fortunate thing for the people in the towns of Canada that provisions are cheaper in winter than in summer ; for, the winter subjects them to a heavy expense iov firewood, which is, as you may well be- lieve, a sine qud non in this climate. The expense of fuel to a family in Que- • bee or Montreal, is fully equal to what the same family would require in London ; and it is to be regretted, that there is no pros- pect of its becoming cheaper. On the con- ' trary, in proportion as the woods are cut, and the distance of carriage increased, the price is augmented ; so tliat in time it will be cheaper to import coals than purchase wood. Firewood is generally laid in, dur- ing the summer. It is brought to Quebec and Montreal, on the river, in immense rafts. The wood is cut into junks, and piled upon a float sub-divided into com- partments of a certain size, containing so many cords. In winter, it is brought from >l ■;< i I'. ' Vhi '1 . m ¥^l \\.f); ' 286 the country in sleighs, and sold at so much per cord, or per sleigh load. No coal has yet been found in Canada, probably be- cause it has never been thought worth searching after. It is supposed that coal exists in the neighbourhood of Quebec ; at any rate, there can be no doubt that it ex- ists in great abundance in the island of Cape Breton, which may one day become the Newcastle of Canada. At present, coals are to be purchased very cheap in Quebec. Many of the ves- sels from Scotland, and from the north of England, take in coals as ballast, and sell them very cheap ; sometimes as low as 17s. per chaldron. Even the kennel coal, which is difficult to be met with in many parts of England, is sold at 36s. per chaldron, which is not above half the price of Newcastle coal in winter in the neighbourhood of London. People who have been accus- tomed tp burn wood, do not like to burn coal. They tell you that the smell is ex- tremely disagreeable to them, and, besides, that coal does not answer for stoves so well as wood. This prepossession against coals. u ,r IvM, # joals, 287 accounts for their being proportionabJy cheaper than wood. It is well that we have either wood or coal, for the effects of frost in this country are with difficulty guarded against, and are really in themselves very curious. 1 made an experiment, which, to most people, will appear very surprising. I b u r N t my hand with a COLD IRON. This may seem in- credible ; but a little explanation will con- vince you of the truth of what I have as- serted. In one of those very cold mornings we had in the month of January, when the thermometer had fallen near 60 degrees be- low the freezing point, I put my hand to a piece of iron that had been exposed to the frost in the open air all night. At first, I felt the sensation arising from extreme cold ; in a few seconds I felt the sensation of heat; and it soon became so strong, and so painful, that I was as glad to quit my hold, as if it had been a hot iron. Indeed, I found that I had kept it too long, because the part that had been in contact, blistered, . in the same manner it would have done had i i m m '■'?;' ■■'(■'''■,11 1^1 ,,. -,;.[ I'll,—,. mh Nil ' X 3'i .# • ♦ 288 it been a hot iron, and it was cured in the same way. No surgeon in England, had he been called in, could have suspected that it was not the effect of coming in con- tact with a hot iron. In truth, heat was the cause of the wound ; and you will rea- dily allow that I am correct, when I have explained to you a few circumstances. Burning by a hot iron is produced by the heat, or what is technically called, caloric, passing in such quantity, and with such rapidity, into the part in contact with the iron, that the continuity and arrange- ment of the part is destroyed. Burning with a cold iron arises from the heat pass- ing in such quantity, and with such ra- pidity, out of the part of the body in con- tact with the cold iron, as to produce the same effect. Heat in both cases is the cause ; and its going into the body from the iron, or into the iron from the body, does not alter the nature of the effect. It is the nature of heat to spread itself equally and uniformly through all bodies. Some receive it, and part with it more quickly than others do ; thpir conducting IIP 4 d in the id, had spected ; in con- eat was vill rea- I have ;es. iced by called, nd with ict with irrange- Burning at pass- uch ra^ m can- uce the ; is the \y from 3 body, ct. id itself bodies, t more :lucting 289 powers are different. When two bodies, of different temperatures, come in contact, the greaterthe difference is, the more violent will be the transmission of heat from the one to the other. Now, when you reflect that the temperature of the blood is 66 degrees above the freeing point (the freezing point is 32. of Fahrenheit, making 98. as the temperature of the blood), and that the temperature of the ^old iron, which burnt me, was 28. below zero, that is, 60. below the freezing point, you have a differ- ence of 126 degrees of heat. This differ- ence is greater than what exists between the temperature of our blood (98.) and the temperature of boiling water, 212. which is only 1 1 4 degrees ; so that it is not at all surprising that the transmission of heat should have been violent, and that burning «hould have been the consequence. You will excuse me for leading you a little into these abstract matters. To as- sert that I was burnt with a cold iron, re- quired something more to support it than the mere ipse dixit of the narrator, what- ever his character for veracity might be. The thing, on a superficial view, is so contrary u "I i |je|^ 'mm r:i:' [m ll[!^l i!i!; li! ('* ;. to our Gonusion^-seceived opiniions, that H was some time before I was quite reeon^ ciled to it. In theory, it was not new to me ; and, as an opportunity occurr^, for proving the theory by practice, I was reJ- solved not to neglect it*. ^ Analogous to being burnt with a cold iron, is the effect produced on the face when it is exposed to a very cold wind,-^^ The sensation is nearly the same as when it is exposed to a very hot wind, and the effect is precisely the same. When travellmg in * The idea of being burnt by a cold iron appears pa- radoxical, but it has been long femiliar to chemists. Our great poet Milton, too, makes an allusion to the like ef- fect of cold in his description of the residence of Satan and his compeers.— After describing Styx, he says, ** Beyond this flood a frozen continent Lies dark'and wild, beat with perpetual storms Of whirlwind and dire hail, which on fi^rm land Thaws not, but gathers heap, and ruin seems Of ancient pile ; or else deep snow and ice, A gulf profound as thr.t Serbonian bog Betwixt Damiata, and Mount Cassius old. Where armies whole have sunk : the parching air Burns f rare i and cold performs tV effect of fire. ^* Paradise Lost, Book IL Frore is an old word for frosty. — We have also in Virgil, Georg. I. 1. 93. ■ — - ■ Boreae penetrabili frigus adurat. H , that it new to ; was rei- h a cold the faee wind,'*^ when it he effect elhng in appears pa- lists. Our the like ef- e of Satan says, torms n land :ms hing air v." Souk II. ve also in m a hot tlitnultt, a'tid exposed t6 the uperai* «i6h 6f a T^atrm wi*nd, I hav6 found thdt' ifay face became red ahd ftiflanlied, and, SL^it were, scoi^ched. If rubbed with any kind of stforf^ spirit, it smarted' exceed- ingly, and perhaps the skin palrtially camie 6ff. Thte s^ni'e sensations, and the same' eflfects, ar'e ptddWced by a very cold WindV The principle oh' which they act, the cause from which they proceed, is the same— the too violeAt pabsjtge 6:^ heat into, 6*r otif' of, the part affi&cted. . There is' another effect Very frequently pi'oduCed by cold in this cbuntry, which' bears n6 aitialogy (as iti the pi'eceding et- ample) to any thing produced by external' heat ; and a dreadful effect it is— •! mean' frost bitten. When the weather is very Cold, particu- larly when aCc6rtipanied by a smart wind, instances 6f people being fro^t bitten, fre- quently CcCur. Not a season passes, with* out some of the sentinels being frost bitteri on their posts. Sometimes, their hands and fafce, sbmetimes, their feet, are affected; and a mCrtifiCatibn of the part generally fol- lows, if the proper remedy is not applied 1 ' I 'I ii >;! li 292 in time. The remedy will seldom be ap- plied, if you are attacked in the dark, which is often the case with those who travel at night, as well as with sentinels. Their own feelings do not inform theni of the presence of the enemy ; and they are not likely, in the dark, to have him discovered by other people. He insidiously makes a breach; and if he can keep his ground but for a short time, it is in vain afterwards to think of dislodging him. In the towns, during the day, there is less danger, because you will be stopped by the first person who observes the symptoms. This is readily and easily done, as the part frost bitten becomes white, while the rest of the face is very red. ,In so critical a moment, people do not stand on any ceremony, as you may sup- pose. They know you are not conscious of your situation ; and they also know, that before they could convince you that you are frost bitten^ and on the point of losing your nose perhaps, it might actually be too late to apply .the remedy; they instantly take a handful of snow, and either rub the part themselves, or make you do it. 36 ap- which ivel at r OWN esence :ely, in ^ other ireach ; t for a 3 think during ise you )n who readily bitten ! face is do not ly sup- iscious w, that at you losing be too stantly •ub the 293 It certainly is enough to startle a stran- ger, to see a person, perfectly unknown to you, come running up, with a handful of snow, calling out, '* Your nose. Sir, — your nose, — ^you are frost bitten f and, without further ceremony, either themselves rub- bing it without mercy, or making you do so. When this is done in due time, the tone of the part, the circulation of the blood, is restored ; and, instead of losing a nose, you get off with the loss of the skin perhaps.- — An acquaintance of mine, who has not been long in the country, was stopped in the street the other morning. — " Your nosey Sir" was the salute ; " it is frost bitten ;— rub it with snow instantly, or you will lose it." The advice came from a quarter that commanded instant attention. Snow was immediately applied, and the bad effects prevented. 1 myself, have guarded against being frost bitten, by using every necessary pre- caution; but I have not escaped altoge- ther. A few days ago, had-I continued a little longer exposed to the cold wind, I must have experienced its effects to a much I •■ i'; ::■■'•' f4 *! ■ iilil Ja K li' 12.94 greatejr e^t;e;i,t tha p I did . I i>ad been wal k- ing quickly against ;the >yiii.d, which >vjas feif- /er cp/J. I fe)jt 30 much pain ^t ]as.t, t)iat I ^as gjad to tupn pay back on it, ai)d gel; Jfpi^ie as fasjt as I could. } found that qac gide of fny face was somewhat; swe)|ed, in]Lip|i inflame^, and yery Ji.olt* I ^ni as- sured, that had I persevered in walking against the wjnd, I |iiost undpjtibtedly would have suffered severely. ' If I had continued under ]the influence of the frosjt a Ifttlp longer, the paipfifl spii- satiori I felc, would have gon.e off, an4 I ^hould have supposed that thje yvjftd had l|ecoip^ milder; wherea^, ^:he ease I should have fe)|; would h^ye arisen froin n^y sepsa^ tions hping blunted, the hJppd yes§pl§ a^. jthe surface h^yi^g !pst t^hpir tone. After thJ3 happens, the lopger one cpntj|ivip§ ex- posed to the cpl(}, the grea(;(er is Xh^ pro* gress of insensibility. It ultimately per- vades all the extremities; drowsiness en- sues. You lyould willingly lie do>yi:^ on the sno>y, were no one near to prevent you.— ^ You would f^U asleep, never to awak€ ^gainj I JinQ\y a gentlen^an, ^hp was sp far Mr >vjas bit- ^, tfiat t ai)d get :hat QA^ sw.eHed, am as- walking ly would nfjuence f, an4 I r'md had I ^))ou1d [\y sepsaT es§pl§ at After :hp pro* ely per- npss en- n on the you.-? awaH« s so far gone, that he lay down on the snow, several times, from a desire to sleep ; and nothing but the roughest usage from a person who fortunately Was with him, prevented his doing so. It was absolutely necessary to kick and buffet him, to keep him awake. Had he gone to sleep, it most assuredly would have been the sleep of death ! Were one to choose their manner of weakening the grasp of the grim tyrant, there is not, probably, so easy a way of doing so, as by the benumbing, soporific in- fluence of frost. A friend of mine, some time ago, found a man lying on the snow, in the neigh- bourhood of Quebec, quite dead ; he was at a little distance from the road ; he had probably got benumbed by the cold, and had stepped aside to indulge, for a few minutes, his desire of sleep. Poor man ! he awakened no more I His countenance bore no marks of suffering : it was as placid and unruffled as if the heart had still con- tinued to beat, and the blood to circulate. The manner in which a cold iron and a cold atmosphere affect the body, is very dif- ferent. The cold iron deprives the body !! < ^i I: i; 1 N i {' ■^ 1 ! i «1 ..» - • i M ,lf< .. i. i' ■I II 296 of its heat in such a violent manner, as <)uite to derange the part in contact, rup- ture the blood vessels, and destroy their continuity. The cold atmosphere deprives the parts (on which" it acts) of their heat in a less violent manner: the blood vessels are not ruptured, nor the continuity of the parts destroyed, but both are so strongly acted upon that their functions are de- stroyed. The blood vessels no longer re- tain the powers of expansion and repul- sion. It is well ascertained, that air is de- composed in the lungs, and parts with its caloric to the blood, which carries it thi jugh the system. Shall 1 hazard a conjecture ? Heat ^(in cases where frost proves fa- tal), is perhaps taken oiF from the body, faster than it can be supplied by the lungs to the blood, and carried into, circulation. A general torpor, a stoppage of the circula- tion of the fluids, — death, in short, ensues. One would naturally enough suppose, that an effect occasioned by cold should be removed by heat. This idea has occasioned theloss of many a limb. It has generally been supposed, that cold is a material sub- stance, of a nature directly opposed to 297 hf^at. This is now generally allowed to be an error, there being no such substance as cold — no such thing in nature. The word expresses a negative quality, viz. tlie ab- sence of heat. *^ Impressed with the idea that heat must be a good remedy for evils produced by cold, hot water has been often applied to parts that have hevn frost bitten, and the conse- quences have always been fatal. The rea- son appears to be this, that the part frost bitten, having become diseased by the heat of the body rushing violently, and in great quantity, out from it, the application of hot water will make the heat rush violently into il; ; and if any part of the work of de- struction remains undone, the heat of the warm water will do it. Experience has proved, that the application necessary to restore the parts to their wonted tone, must be of a very moderate degree of heat — very little, indeed, above freezing. The heat may then insinuate itself so gra- dually and gently, as not to increase the evil. Snow, or cold water, have been found to be the most efficacious applica- tions, being of a temperature sufficiently .Ml 1 1' •H" ;':i ■ >. m ifl.i 29$ low, yet fitill pofiseswng a degree of heat sufficient to produce an effect on the parts, and restore circulation; or, perhaps, the caloric, or animal heat, meeting witii snow, a non-conductor, may remain in the part frost bitten, and, of itself, restore it to its proper tone. Excuse me for troubling you with these speculations. I owii that they are rather out of my province, though not altogether foreign, in considering the effects of a Ca- nadian winter. I have yet some details to give you of the effects of frost, which must be quite new to you. Professing to make you acquainted with this country, I should but ill perform my task, did I omit any point of information essential for giving you a knowledge of winter, which occupies ope half the year. In my next communi- cation I shall endeavour to meike good my promise. i>. 1 .# S99 LE'FTBR XX. Quebec, 1803. ly givir)g you the striking features of the Canadian winter, I ought not to omit, that during the most severe cold in January, a great and very sudden change takes place almost every ypar, and continues for a day or two. From a most sevpre frost, when the thermometer shewed 60 degrees below the freezing point, it suddenly became so warm, that the thermometer shewed three degrees above freezing. In short, the wea- ther this winter changed in a few hours from nearly the greatest degree of cold that ever was known here, to a complete thaw. It is a law of nature, that when fluids be- come solid, heat is given out to the atmo- sphere. On this principle, when water be- comes ice, heat must be given out ; and an accuniulatipn of this heat may produce i;;i I J i ■ ■> ^ m soo the thaw experienced in Canada, in the / middle of winter. Such a great and sudden change is pro*- ductive of very unpleasant sensations. The stoves, and winter clothing, are quite op* pressive ; and yet, it is dangerous to at- tempt to dispense with either, for you, everif hour, look for a return of the cold weather* Fortunately, it does not in general continue man^ days; sometimes, however, it has been known to last ten or fourteen days ; and, when this is the case, it is of very se- rious injury to the country in a variety of ways. It is extremely prejudicial to the health of the pet)ple. The streets are so inundated with water from the melting of the snow, that you cannot walk out ; and the roads become so soft, and the rivers so full of water, that you cannot use a cariole, or travel, indeed, in any mode. But, what is a much more serious evil than all these things, the provisions which were destined to serve through the winter, be-, come thawed, and are either destroyed al-» together, or greatly injured. It is surprising, that although this cir- cuwstance has occurred i*requently, and W 301 cir- anc) the people! are subject to it every year, yet there is not much attention paid to putting the provisions in such a situation, and packing them up in such a manner, as to effectually prevent their being accessi- ble to the warm air, during the thaw. It might be done very easily : Let them be packed in a tight box or cask, after being completely frozen, and this box or cask put into another, large enough to admit of its being surrounded with pounded ice and snow, which would act as a perfect non- conductor of heat, and preserve the con- tents of the inner box in their frozen state for a great length of time. The outer box should have holes in its bottom, to allow any water to run out, which might arise from the melting of the snow. This method has, I believe, been tried with success; but it is by no means in general use. During the thaw, a very extraordinary effect is produced, sometimes, on'the trees. The Canadians call it a ver-glas. The tree, from the trunk to tlie point of the smallest branch, becomes incrusted with pure ice. There may be a small degree of frost.during the night, which will freeze 1 1 I : P'"' ii i i it ' 1 l~ m l.^J> ■! ■|V»;,:, •i"t ^i W: 302 the moisture that covered the trees dur- ing the day; and ili is probable that the external parts of the trees themselves, be- ing cooled down below thf freezing pointy by the extreme cold of the previous wea- ther, freeze the vapour, the moment it comes in contact with them; in the same way that the glass of a window in winter becomes incrusted with i^ formly warm, it must be changing every moment.. By being heated, it is rarified and presses upwards ; its place is supplied by the cold air from without, which, being more dense, rushes in at every little crevice in the lower part of the room. The principal advantage arising from the uniform heat of a stove, is, that the ' walls of the room become warmed, and communicate their warmth to the air which comes into the room, and gets in contact with them. In a room, the walls of which are cold, if the air is heated and rarified, it will be cooled and condensed the mo- ment it comes in contact with the cold walls ; an(l as by condensation it becomes heavier, it will rush downwards, produc- ing a current of air towards the floor, which will be felt by those sitting close to the wall. You will uniformly see these observa- tions exemplified in assembly rooms and churches, the walls of which, being cold, condense the warm air. ^y condensation, it parts with the moisture which it held in solution, and which is seen running down :11^ In- v I ' i. I :,, \ ,' ifiqifj M ' ( .i t mi||l| iiim Ibini : 306 the waits in streams. All rooms wiiich are not meant to be frequently used, such as assembly rooms, ought to be plastered on laths, or, what would be better still, pa- pered, or painted on canvas. In the lat- ter case, at least, I should suppose they ne- ver would be so cold as to condense the air, and produce the effects above mentioned. I must own, I am a friend to warmth. It is said, that by custom, we may inure ourselves to cold, in such a manner as to render our bodies in some degree insemible to it; but supposing this to be attained, it does not folk)w that its pernicious effects on us are prevented. Rheumatisms, and other diseases, may be the consequence. The Canadians keep their houses very hot; and they themselves, while exces- sively warm, go immediately into the cold air, without seeming to feel any inconve- nience from it; which would induce Ojae to believe that the sudden transition frc>m a hot room into the cold air, if the person be properly clothed, were not so dangerous as is generally imagined. This is further illustrated by the instances I have formtirly mentioned of ladies and gentlemen going 307 into the cold night air, out of a warm ball- room, without suffering any inconvenience from it I am disposed to join in the opinion of those who think that the living in a warm room, so far from weakening and making you delicate, as it is termed, and render- ing you unfit to bear cold, is the best pre- servative against the bad effects of cold, when you may be under the necessity of exposing yourself to it. It has been observed by an eminent philosopher, that if, during the time we are sitting still, the circulation of the blood is gradually and insensibly diminished by the cold which surrounds us, it is not possible that we should be able to support a great additional degree of cold, without sinking under it. We should be like water, which, by exposure to moderate cold in a state of rest, has been slowly cooled down below the freezing point; the smallest additional cold, or a small degreeof agitation, changes it to ice in an instant ; but water, at a high temperature, will support the same degree , of frost, for a considerable time, without appearing to be at all affected by it. In giving you facts, illustrative of the '1 iW i/=;'l ! '« 'I rr. * im '<• • 308 severity of a Canadian winter, let me men- tion to you the experiments on bomb shells, made at Quebec some years ago, by a Ma- jor Williams, of the Artillery. I am ac- quainted here, with some gentlemen who witnessed the experiments : they were made in order to ascertain the force of the expan- sion of freezing water : they are curious ; and you, perhaps, have not met with them in the course of your reading. These experiments were made on iron shells of different sizes, from the 13-inch shell, to the cohorn of four inches diameter. The shells were nearly filled with water, and an iron plug was driven in at the fuze hole, by a sledge hammer. It was found, how- ever, that the plug could never be driven so firmly into the fuze hole, as to resist the expanding ice, which pushed it out with great force and velocity, and a bolt or cy- linder of ice immediately shot up from the hole : but when a plug was used that had springs, which would expand, and lay hold of the inside of the cavity, so that it could not possibly be pushed out, the force of the expansion split the shell. The amazing force of expansion in con- gelation is also shewn from the distance to 309 "which these iron plugs were thrown out of the fuze hole. A plug of two pounds and a /icf//* weight was thrown no less than 415 feel from the shell ; the fuze axis was at an angle 6f 45; the thermometer shewed 51 degrees below the freezing point. Here you see ice and gunpowder performing the same operations. That similar effects should proceed from such dissimilar causes is very extraordinary. The expanding force of freezing water acts powerfully on all bodies exposed to its operation. Wherever water lodges, and is at all confined, as in the cracks and fis- sures of rocks, or in the walls of houses, the effects of its expansion are felt. Masses of rock are severed from the mountain's brow, and precipitated into the valleys below. i> There the frost again acts upon them, and they are reduced from one size to another, until they become an earth.— In ajgriculture, the effects of the expansion of freezing water are well known. The farmer fitids, that by ploughing a strong soil, and exposing it to the operation of the winter's frost, the hard clods are broken 4own and pulverised, and the soil is better ill I :il fl t I "■} I) '■: 310 fitted to receive the seed, aiid give it nou- rishment. In Canada, the walls of the houses are usually plastered on the outside, to pre« serve the stone from moisture, and the con- sequent destructive effects of the frost. They find it, however, a very difficult mat- ter to get plaster to adhere; particularly if exposed to the easterly wind, which, in one winter, destroys almost any plaster they can use. A composition has lately been tried, which promises to answer bet- ter. About a couple of pounds of Mus- covado sugar are mixed with a bushel of lime; and it makes a very hard and durable mixture, for rough casting. In places the most exposed to easterly wind, it has re- mained hard and fast, afler a fair trial. Before I close this letter, let me men- tion to you the assistance the Canadians receive from their dogs, which they employ for a variety pf domestic purposes. 1 for- merly mentioned to you the speed and the .hard work to which the Canadian horse was frequently put; but he is not the only beast of burden here, or, I should rather say, of drapght. Xhe Canadians make ll ':: 111; 311 much use of dogs for drawing light weights. You frequently see a single dog draw a small cart, or sledge, loaded with more than 200lbs. weight of different articles. — In the winter, in addition to this weight, you see the man who drives8,tanding on the sledge, and dragged along with great speed, if there is a gentle declivity. The weight they are made to draw, is really incredible. Nor are they very large dogs, or of any particular species: you see them of all sorts and sizes, with carts or sledges, in pro*- portion to tlicir strength. The butchers em- ploy them for transporting meat to their customers in diflferent parts of the town : they use small carts in summer, and sledges in winter ; the dogs are fitted with a com- plete set of harness, and two or three of them are sometimes yoked to the same cart or sleigh. People employ them too, in bringing water from' the river; in drag- ging small carnages with children; and, in short, in all domestic purposes where a moderate weight is to be transported. They certainly might be used in Britain with great advantage, in many cases ; because a boy can attend them, and make them draw a great deal more than he can carry. M'm S12 r:il '... P ' ■ > r t flnf ■)1j I !•■ 'I '. '51 LETTER XXI. Quebec, 1808. No part of the Canadian winter is more interesting than the conclusion of it, when the snow begins to disappear, and the ice . in the rivers to break up, which is the case in the end of April. One would naturally suppose, that six months frost and snow would have become insufferably tiresome to a stranger. I can assure you I have not found it so. The winter may be divided into three seasons, or portions, as it were: for two months at the beginning, the snow is fall- ing, and the frost becoming daily more ^ severe. We are amused by making ob- servatioujs upon it, and by the novelty of our situation, and our consequent ha- bits. The middle two months of severe frost is not without interest ; we then see winter in all his majesty, after he has bound up the lakes and rivers in fetters of ice, and covered the earth as with a mantle. ,-aQ., kf I 315 The last two months are interesting, be- cause we are anxious to see by what means, and in what manner, such an immensity of snow and ice is to be got rid of. The influence of the sun is little felt in February. In March, however, you arc sensible of its power : and, during this month, the weather in general is very beau« tiful ; the frost is still sufficiently severe to keep the roads hard and good ; the sky is clear, the sun shines bright ; it is pleasant to get into a cariole, and drive a few miles into the country. During the month of April, the influence of the sun has been so great, as powerfully to affect all nature.— The snow has nearly disappeared about the first week in May ; the ice in the lakes and rivers is broken up, by the increase of wa- ter from the melting of snow, and it is floated down to the great river St. Law- rence, where it accumulates in immense quantities, and is carried up and down with the tide. At this time the St. Lawrence presents pne of the most extraordinary scenes in na- ture. You cannot form an adequate idea •!l 'il h < H, ! i ■f"' : !l|i! ,i' ''K ! \r 1' ■• '■ riJ: of it, without being a spectator. Frotii bank to bank, it is quite choaked up with immense masses and sheets of ice ; some of them from 4 to 500 yards in diameter. — The tide forces them on one another, breaks them into smaller pieces, and raises them in shelving and fantastic forms, consider- ably above the surface. This mass of mov- ing ice fills the whole bason, and is seen as far up the river as your eye can reach — a distance altogether of twelve td fifteen miles. While the river was in this state, we were astonished to see a vessel from Eng- land come round point Levi, into the ba- son. The arrival of the Jirst vessel from England is hailed as a joyful circumstance. You cannot imagine what a crowd of pleasurable ideas fills the mind on this oc- casion. All classes and descriptions of people are interested in it. The merchant, the tradesman, and the labouirer, have an immediate prospect of beginning their ope- rations, of putting a period to a state of idleness, and of supplying the wants of their families, which, necessarily, will often 315 be felt, after being six months with little or no employment. The military men have a more immediate prospect of communi- cating with their friends at home, and of having more frequent intelligence of what is going on in Europe. In short, a thou- sand agreeable associations are formed in, the mind, which may be more easily con- ceived than described. The vessel arrived on the 28th of April, which is about a fortnight sooner than usual. Indeed, for these last forty years, I am well informed, there have been only two vessels that have arrived so soon. The ri- ver being still full of ice, it was curious, and at the s^in^ tjnie terrific, to see the vessel, with all 9^il$ 9^tf surrounded by, and fixed amongst, th^se ii^in^ense pieces of ice, mov- ing backwards j^nd forwards with the tide, whichever way it led. Anchors and ca- bles were of no use ; the only object, — the only chance of safety, was to take advan- tage of some occasional opening amongst the sheets of ice, by which she might ba forced out of the stream. An opportu- nity fortnnately occurred ; it was imnie- ill IliS' 4. U. : ■!P . ••r.J' ! 1.1 I,.' m ■ i ■■" '. ■ 'i .' ' II j?K:.l lili *'/.^.| 316 diately seized, the wind being strong and favourable; and she was brought to the quay, and safely moored. People went off to her assistance im- mediately on her appearing, and they had much difficulty in reaching her ; but they did so at last, with the assistance of ca- noes, which they paddled when an open- ing occurred, and hauled over the ice when necessary. It was an extraordinary sight to see people jump off the sheets of ice, into the main-chains of the vessel. One might have thought, that these immense masses of ice coming against the sides of the vessel, would have stove them in; she received no injury however. In fact, the ice at this season has been so acted upon by the warmth of the weather, that its hardness is greatly lessened. It seems to preserve inuch of it3 thickness ; but it has become perforated, honey- combed, and full of water, so that the Concussion on the vessel was reduced to almost nothing. Ice of the same apparent magnitude, in the month of Jauuary, would have squeezed the vessel to pieces. My 14 317 Notwithstanding this vessel suffered no injury, there was a considerable risk of her being forced on shore. In the fall of the year the risk of ship- wreck is greatly increased, from the snow storms prevalent at that time. These storms not only prevent the sailors from' seeing the coast and the landmarks, and consequently from directing their course properly ; but the cold is then so severe, that the men cannot remain exposed to it. The cordage becomes incrusted with ice, so that it cannot run through the blocks, and the sails become frozen in such a man- ner, that there is no possibility of working the ship ; besides^ so much ice gets about the rudder that it becomes immoveable. Many vessels have been lost from these circumstances, and almost every winter, some vessels sail in expectation of g .tting out of the river ; but, being caught in a snow storm, are very fortunateif they escape destruction, by getting into some bay or place of shelter, where they remain fixed for the winter. No sooner is the influence of the April ^un felt, than you see birds of various kinds m m\ ■ • 1'^ 'i ■ ' J' i ■if ., if. St I lif : f'F ?:.,;(' I-' 318 returning to their summer quarters : and vegetation about the 10th of May is very strong. The snow is nearly gone, and the frc»st is sufficiently out of the ground to allow the farmer to commence his opera- tions. This takes place after the snow is gone, sooner than one would imagine. The frost does not penetrate so deep into the ground, as from the intenseness, and long continuance of the cold, might be ex- pected. In countries where you have six months frost, were the soil exposed to its influence all the while, it would have penetrated so deep, that I question if the heat of a whole summer would eradicate it. But Pro- vidence has furnished a remedy: it has kindly decreed, that when water is cooled down to 32^. it shall freeze, and be con- verted into ice and snow. The rivers be- come covered with ice, the surface of the earth becomes hardened, snow falls to a considerable thickness, and by these means the water and the land are protected from the influence of that immense volume of cold, dense atmosphere, which presses on, from the polar regions towards the south. S' t I, '{ and very Ithe id to •pera- low id . The to the I long >e ex-* cionths luence ited so whole b Pro- it has cooled e con- Ts be- of the IS to a means from me of ises on, south J sig when the tiuii retreats after the solstice. The natural heat of the earth is about 42 ; the thermometer stands at this point in the deepest mines that have been sunk. This natural heat as well as the heat accu- mulated in the earth and water during summer, is prevented, by the ice and snow, from making its escape; and as soon as the return of the sun has brought warmth enough to banish the frost from the asmosphere, the latent heat of the earth and water lends its aid in dissolv- ing the snow and ice, and forwarding ve- getation. Snow is peculiarly well calcu- lated for preserving warmth in the earth ; because it is full of air, which is known to be a very bad conductor of heat, and will, of course, the more effectually prevent its escaping from the surface. It is a thing very well ascertained here, that vegetation has made some progress under the snow, be- fore it has deserted the ground. The long continuance of winter in Ca- nada is certainly a circumstance which must retard its progress in improvement, an^ the increase of its trade. Some peo- ple pretend to say, that it must ever pre- vent its becoming a great, populous, and i' ill' it:--,',:. 1 ' II •• i W'M m m ! ■If if; i iHv I Hi- ',' « ' V '\ i\ • , ♦ ;■*. ', 1 '■■< ''. '■':,' 1 '■ . ' ' .» ■ '*" I-,.- ,vi.. ,^f"'iii i) , 320 trading nation. I cannot go so faf. We have seen Russia, in the course of a cen« tury, become a great, populous, and trad- ing nation. We have seen a splendid ca- pital city, and many respectable town», raised by the magical powers of commerce, and domestic industry ; and yet the Rus- sian >vinter is as long as the Canadian win- ter. The communication of the Russians, by water, with the rest of the world is cut off, and that element confounded, as it were, with the land, from the 27th of No- vember, to the 19th of April (upon aa average calculation of 15 years), which is nearly five months. Now vessels some- times leave Quebec as late as the begin- ning of December, and arrive sometimes in the end of April, so that the Neva is as long shut up as the St. Lawrence ; yet no- body ever doubts that Russia is a rising country, and may become the most power- ful in Europe. It is worthy of remark, and not a little surprising, that so large a river as the St, Lawrence, in latitude 47, should be shut up with ice as soon, and continue as long shut up, as the comparatively small river, the Neva, in latitude 60. it. We f a cen* nd trad- [idid ca- j towns, fninefce, he Rus- iian win- lussiansy rid is cut id, as it h of No- ll pon an which is Is some- le begin- )metime5 leva is as ; yet no- a rising it power- )t a little the St, be shut e as long ail river, 3«1 Could the husbandman, the labourer, and all those whose trade or profession in Canada lead them to work in the open air, follow their occupations all the year round, it cer- tainly would be of great advantage to the country, *XiA to the people. At present, a great proportion of the people are obliged to live twelve months on six months work, which implies their receiving double wages. This is certainly the case ; wages are very high ; 4, 5, to 6s. a day are given, accord- ing to the kind of work, and merit of the workman. The idleness of their winter life has other bad effects. It generates habits prejudicial to exertion ; so that, in summer even, they do not perform so much work as men who are in habits of industry all the year round. At the same time I must say, that the lower classes in this country dress as well, and appear to live as comfortably, as the same classes of people do in aay coun- try in Europe. Ml til I' it'lii ■•■y l;i ■ 'i I [.,.» K ■ \c. ^;i- sss It ' LETTER }j:XII. Quebec, 1806^ I HAVE now, my worthy friend, been a sojourner in Canada for a considerable length of time. If it is not a land abound- ing in all the luxuries and elegancies of life, it undeniably is a land of peace and plenty. My further experience has enabled me to confirm the truth of the statements I have already sent you, relative to the com- merce of Canada ; and to verify the obser- vations I have ventured to make on the country, and its inhabitants, in physical and moral points of view. I did not imagine that my letters would have reached the extent they have done. One thing leads on to another ; and it i^ diffi- cult to know where to stop. Perhaps you could have told me very easily : be that as . I !'■ ^ec, 1808, been a iderable abound- js of life, ace and tbled me ments I ;he com- le obser- on the physical rs would ire done, iti^diffi- laps you Q that as !■ 523 it may, I must go on a little further. I have proceeded so far in drawing a portrait of Canada, that I should be sorry to omit any feature which might leave the resem- blance doubtful. It would be more cor- rect, were I to say the outlines of a por- trait, for it is devoid of colouring and of ornament; yet I think it will be recognized by those who know the original. I have, in a former letter, made some remarks on the government of Canada; but I have not said any thing, either as to the precise nature of the constitution, or the exact boundaries of the country. Se- veral points connected with these objects demand attention, particularly the state of the public mind, in so far as regards the connexion with, and dependance on. Great Britain. By the act of parliament, passed in 1791 > it is enacted, " That there shall be, within each of the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, a legislative council, and house of assembly, who, with the consent of the governor, appointed by the king, shall have power to make laws." — Bills, though they have passed both the assembly and .f N I,! 1 i !■! '1 I * << : h IM!' • I 1 ■ i i 1 1 ) flit r 1 J : ■ '*, •'■'i^'' / i 1 324 the cotmcil, may, by the governor^ be refer- red to the king, and do not become laws till his assent is procured. When the go- vernor assents for his Majesty, the bill be- comes a law : but copies of such laws are sent home to the Secretary of State, and his Majesty may declare his dissatisfaction at any time within two years. The legislative council is to consist of not less than seven members for Upper Canada, and fifteen for Lower Canada, to be summoned by the governor. The mem- bers are to hold their seats for life, unless forfeited by four years continued absence, or by swearing allegiance to some foreign power. The king may grant hereditary ti- tles, by letters patent; with a right of sit- ting as legislative counsellors. But this right of creating a Canadian nobility has not as yet been exercised. The house of assembly is to consist of not less than sixteen members for Up- per Canada ; and not less than fifty mem- bers for Lower Canada; to be chosen by the freeiiolders in the several towns and counties. The members for the counties are chosen by those who possess real pro- ft'ii f refer- 5 laws [C go- ill be- vs are !, and action sist of Jpper da, to mem- unless isence, breign ary ti- of sit- right not as »ist of Up- mem- en by and es are pro- 525 perty of the yearly value of 40s. The voters for the towns must possess a house, or laud, of the yearly value of 51. sterling; or have been residents a year, and paid 101. a year rent. The council and assem- bly are to be called together at least once a year; and every assembly is- to continue four years, unless sooner dissolved, which it is in the power of the governor to do, as soon, and as often, as he pleases. Every voter must, if called upon, take an oath that he is qualified to vote according to law. The governors of the two provinces are perfectly independent of each other in their civil capacity. In mihtary affairs, the governor of Lower Canada takes pre- cedence, as he is usually created Captain General of his Majesty's forces in North America. By an act passed in the parliament of Great Britain, in the 18th year of his pre- sent Majesty, intituled, " An act for remov- ing all doubts and apprehensions concern- ing taxations by the parliament of Great Biitain, in the colonies, provinces, and plantations in North America, and the West Indies," &c. Parliament restrained I . ii:'':.ll!i4 J 'I ] t » * i it ■ .' i; • i 'i' ; m ■ , 5 1 .;J * 1 1 u J ■';.. .*k .', S26 restrained itself for ever, from imposing taxes or duties in the colonies, except for the regulation of trade; the produce of such taxes or duties to be disposed of by the provincial legislature. Whether the British government did right in giving Canada a provincial assem- bly, has been frequently a subject of dis- cussion here. Much, of course, may be said on both sides: for my own part, I have no hesitation in saying, that, in my opinion, it was premature. An infant colony is something like an infant child, and should be treated in the same manner. It would be considered ex- tremely unwise to put a very young man, of large fortune, in possession of his es- tates, and allow him to have the manage- ment of them. The most promising youth would not be trusted to such an extent: but if he was kndwn to possess strong pas- sions, and, instead of being well grounded in his education, he had been neglected,— his mind uncultivated, bad habits acquired, strong prejudices and antipathies against his guardians imbibed, with every wish to be troublesome to them, every desire to 327 throw off their snperintendingr c\re, and either to take the reins into his owti un- steady, feeble hands, or invite to his aid the greatest enemies the gu:irdia:is have, would not the guardians be justly accused of acting a foolish part, were they, not- ' withstanding all this, to put it in the power of the young man to accomplish his wishes either in whole or in part ? This is precisely the case of the British government and Canada. The comparison I have made between the Canadians and an ignorant headstrong youth, will no doubt be ckemeti by them highly ^nti-' Canadian^ yet 1 think it will hold good in every point. They will pretend to be indignant at the idea of their having a wish to throw off the superintending care of Britain, and to give a preference to France ; and I do believe that a great many of them would be sincere in their indignation, because pruden- tial considerations might predominate with these; or they may have reasoned them- selves into the conviction that any change must be for the worse : but I would not do the great body of the people the in- 1:| M \r. f \ r^i'^t ^, '■■=■■ U : f ■ . 1 1 ; iJ! '' ^i I i , i 'i' 1 '■ i ■ 1 ;J 1 ■t W',J •.{'• ■if: i r (i i- 328 justice to suppose, that they have not the wish again to see the French in Canada. I judge of them from myself, and from what I conceive to be the necessary tendency of human nature. Were Bonaparte and his Frenchmen to get possession of Canada, or Nova Scotia, I do not believe that there is a British subject in either of these colonies, unbiassed by considerations relative to his own personal emolument, who would ever cease to wish for the return of their coun« try men. Children would imbibe prepossessions against the French; they would be ac- customed to hear lamentations for the days that were passed ; their young minds would be early impressed with the greatness and goodness of the British nation ; prejudice^ and antipathies would take possession of them ; it is not in nature that it should be otherwise. Were the English (as the French are now) the majority in this coun- try, would the French put the government into their hands ? Most assuredly not : the English would not expect it ; nor would they expect to have places of trust, of confidence, and of emolument. They 329 would naturally say, the French cannot be blamed for prefering their own coun- trymen and friends ;"— it is an effect of con- quest, and though unpleasant to us, must be endured, like many other unpleasant effects of it. We have the fullest protection for our persons and property, there is no bar to our industry, no hinderauce to us in the exertion of our talents in every branch of trade ; we enjoy the free exercise of our religion ; we are elegible to all the offices un- der government, if we have interest enough to get them ; and, indeed, our not having it, is no great loss, as most of these situa- tions are not worth having ; an industrious man with a certain degree of talent being almost always able to do better by his own personal exertions, in either commerce, manufactures, or agriculture. In short, what have we to complain of— that the French are richer than we are — that they are more commercial — that they are more trusted by their countrymen than we are ? — Qught we to complain of these things ? — Certainly not. If we have not capital, pr industry, or knowledge, it is not their fault; there is no bar to our acquiring those II' li ii;-i;' 1 1 m I: it! ■• . 11 fl-:.'l ■■ '\' >!' .i I 'i I (I u'>' 330 things ; and as we are the majority, our countrymen would certainly give us the preference both in purchases and sales, if they found their account in it. By thus changing sides with the Cana- dians, the argument appears in a stronger point of view. I really do not see what they have to complain of; and yet they are very much dissatisfied. Their dissatisfaction has lately had vent through the medium of a newspaper edited at Quebec in the French language. I have taken notice of it in a previous let- ter. They call it " Le Canadien" It affords to a certain class of the community a mode of expressing their feelings, to which they wish to give as extensive a cir- culation as possible. If one were really to bel ieve that there are grouiids for all that has appeared in this paper against the English, it would be concluded that the Canadians are the most oppressed people in the world. I have taken pains to find out if they have any real cause of complaint — if they are oppressed or maltreated in any one v/ay; but I have looked for it in vain. 1 have every wish to do them justice, and m 331 would gladly state to you any circumstance to justify their apparent dissatisfaction ; but really, I cannot find any. I am afraid I must look for it only in their own tempers and dispositions, influenced by the peculi- arity of their situation^ as descendants of those who formerly had entire possession of the country, and of its government, civil and military ; and who feel sore at being deprived of any part of the inheritance of their fathers. Perhaps they are displeased that they have not a greater share of what are called the loaves and fishes ; and I have heard them express great displeasure at an Eng- lishman having received a pension on the Canada establishment, or an increase of salary, < As to the loaves and fishes, their dis- content is extremely unreasonable; they expect a line of conduct from the English, that the English would not experience from them, were situations changed ; but the fact is, they hold a large share of the pub- lic employments. As to pensions on their establishment, their displeasure on that account arises ! r SI (ill- A \ff. 11, ■'I I f '•■i'l it % m I'.'* *■■* rM^:' If ■■ ,» 332 from their not knov/ing the real state of the finances and resources of the country. The nvore pensions that are granted to En- glishmen residing in Canada, the better for the country ; the province gains by it. The civil hst, including the whole civil expenditure of the province of Lower Ca- nada for 1806, amounted to 36,213/. 11«. 8c?4. sterling; but of this sum the pro- vince paid only 16,22?/. 14s. Oc/|. as ap- pears by the accounts laid before the House of Assembly ; the remainder was paid out of the military chest, from funds raised by draughts on the British government. Now as Britain already pays more than the half of the civil list, it is evident that every pension added to this list is paid by the- British government. Every additional pen- sion operates in the same way that an additional regiment sent to the country does ; and I doubt not that the Canadians are well aware, that, independent of de- fence, the more troops that are sent to the country the better ; the demand for the fruits of their industry is increased. It is to be regretted that those amongst the Canadians who are looked up to by^ 333 their cpuntrymen, and whose opinions pass current under the idea of their having been formed after due deUberation, and after hav- ing well studied the matter, shorald be so negligent of their duty to their country- men, as to publish opinions, and make as- sertions not well founded, and without having duly considered and well under- stood the subject ; such men do great in- jury to society. If any discontent exists in the country, any idea of oppression, or mal-ad ministration in government, such men are the cause of it. It certainly is a possible case, that " Le Canadien" is connected with French poli- tics, either directly or indirectly ; either by iagents of Bonaparte, or by agents of the French party in America. The agents of France have been detected in almost every nation on earth. They have been detected in Ireland, and they infest every court on the continent of Europe. They have spread over Persia, and the peninsula of India. They have been very successful in the United States. Is it then to be thought, that Canada alone, where circumstances l^iii! 1 ■'■HI w- ^-^ .. ; L'l" Pi 334 are so favourable to their exertions, should be exempted from their attacks ? The great mass of the people are quiet and inoffensive. If left to them- selves they would be troublesome to no body; and notwithstanding their natural predilection for the French (nos pauvres gens, our poor people, as they still call them), I believe, that at present any order from our government would be as much attended to in Canada, as in Britain. It is true, the government has some- times attempted measures which have failed. But this, perhaps, arose from want of perseverance on the part of government; or from their not adopting means adequate to the end in view. Amongst other mea- sures which have failed, I could mention the introduction of the English language into the country. As this is a very impor- tant point, I shall make it the subject of another letter. 335 4 LETTER XXIII. Quebec, 1808. 'I ,! 11 I M At the time of the conquest, forty years ago, Canada contained such a mere hand- ful of people, that it would have been no difficult matter to have introduced the English language very generally, in the towns at least. Some steps have been taken for that purpose from time to time, but have failed of success, from want of energy on the part of government. Eng- lish schools have been established in some parts of the country, but few, or none, of the Canadians have ever sent their children to them. Government, from the beginning, in- stead of shewing a decided preference to their own language, adopted a temporising system, which left the Canadians without a motive to learn English. Had the knowledge pf the English language always been held I'M IP 1 its ■ p 1 ''i; V V ■ i 111 l-k- I SS6 out asa recommendation to favour, and a pre- ference given on that account, where other qualiflcations were equal^had English alone prevailed in the courts of justice, and in all departments of state, and public of- fices ; it is highly probable that it would have been the general language of the coun- try at the present moment: at least, it would have become a necessary part of the education of the better sort of people; as they could not have appeared at the go- vernor's without it, nor have had any thing to say, either in the provincial parliaiment, or courts of justice. Had the leading men of the country been Englified, their influ- ence would have been felt by the lower classes; and you might now, in a great measure, have had a colony of Englishmen, instead of Frenchmen. I may be told that language is only sound, and that a man may have good principles, whatever lan- guage he speivks. All that may be very true ; but I de.vy that the descendantt of Prenchmen, retaining the French language, manners, and customs, and constantly talk- ing of the French as their progenitors, can ever be good British subjects, or enter heartily into her interests. The French- ;; I dapre- e other English ce, and jlic of- would e coun- east, it t of the pie; as the go- ly thing mmeaty ingmen ir in£u- e lower a great ishmen, old that a man ^^er Ian- be very antt' of nguage, tly talk- ^enitors, or ervter French- 337 man's amor patria is not easily rooted out ; nay, nor any other man's amor patria. It can only be done by giving a proper direc- tion to the minds of young people ; to ac- complish which not the least pains are taken in Canada. It seems highly expedient, and decidedly for the advantage of the Canadians them- selves, that the English language should be universally prevalent in Canada. In mak- ing this assertion, I am aware that I am flying in the face of the opinions of the Canadians — opinions strongly supported by all those passions and prejudices so na- tural to humanity. 1 do not greatly blame them. We all have opinions and preju- dices, of which we cannot easily get the better; and which, indeed, like the Cana- dians in the present case, we are at no great pains to conquer. But this does not alter their nature ; they still are wrong. Could the Canadians leave their minds open to conviction, I think they would scarcely be ible to continue opposed to the conclusions I shall draw. Canada is become a part of the British €lmpiTeyand the more closely it is connected z i ii:- r'1' ill .! :!i < • ;^» S8S with the body of the empire, the better for the whole. It is acknowledged universally, that the strength of a whole is increased by the union of the parts. If the junction of the branch to the trunk is defective, if a frac- ture exists, the nourishment given is check- ed— the advantages mutually received are weakened « This has ever been considered an axiom both in the natural and political world. Every impediment to a close con- nexion between Britain and Canada ought to be removed or avoided, in order that they may fully enjoy all the benefits arising from their connexion. I, for my own part, have no doubt that the English language not being the language of Canada, is an impe- diment of this sort. Did tlie Canadians speak the German language, the Italian, or any other language, the effect would be the same. I do not mean to enter into any view of the comparative value of the French and English languages; but one thing I will venture to say, which is, that the English is the language which the Canadians would ^ find the most useful; and I think I can prove it to their satisfaction. I know well that it is generally said that 339 the French h the language most generally know^n; and that all the world speak French. These observations are far from being literally true. No doubt, most gen- tlemen, who have had a libefal education, know the French language ; and you occa- sionally find some who speak it pretty well : but these are not the people with whom the Canadians afe likely to be principally con- nected. Canada must, in time, become a great, populous, and trading country. Na- ture has given a great facility to mercan- tile intercourse ; the large lakes and rivers open up a vast extent of country; and they will infallibly be surrounded by a people who speak English. The Canadians {of Lower Canada, to whom I beg leave to be under- stood to refer,) ought to recollect, that Ca- nada forms a part of America ; and that the language of America is English, and ever will be English. This too is the case with Upper Canada ; a circumstance which they ought not to overlook. I also take upon me to assert, that no language on earth is so generally and universally spoken, both as to the extent of the countries which use it, and the number of their inhabitants. This '! I 1 ill r ii rfl (i■^ V ■■ k 1i 340 may be thought a bo^ assertion, but it is true. English is the language not only of the British islands, but it is the language of the whole extent of America^ from the frozen ocean to the gulf of Mexico. It is the Ian* guage of a great part of the West Indies ; it is the language of government, and mer- cantile men in the whole extent of the East Indies, a country as large as Europe ; not to mention its being the language of New Holland, (an immense continent of it- self;) and of the Cape of Good Hope, and many other British settlements : and, next to their own, it is the language generally used by mercantile men and seamen iii Sweden, Denmark, Norway, and the Rus- sian empire : so that the English language may be said to be at present even, but will most assuredly, in the course of time, be the most universal of all languages. What the Canadians ought principally to regard is, that they must infallibly be surrounded by people who speak English, with whom it is their destiny to buy and sell, to traffic, and treat. They cannot turn to the right hand nor to the left with- \ ■;i ;.r \ 341 out being spoken to in English. If they go into Upper Canada, there tliey meet it; if they pass the bounds of the Seigneuries, in Lower Canada, again they find the want of the English language. It presses upon them on u\\ sides ; so that, on this account alone, it is evidently the interest of the Ca» nadians to learn English ; not to mention how much it is their duti/ also to learn the language of the head, and executive part of the government. And let me remark, that those should be convincing arguments which shew us that both our interest and duty are connected with conviction. It is not in these different points of view alone, in which it is the interest of the Canadians to encourage, in their young people, a knowledge of English: they ought to look a little into futurity ; their neighbours arc more advanced in useful improvements than they are ; and although their parents have not done them justice, by putting it in their power to derive every advantage from their situation which it can yield, they ought not to retaliate on their children, by keeping them in equal igno- rance. How can they profit fvotn the ex^ 1 ■I :i 1 i i>i ■ I U^M 342 perience of their neighbours, if from an ignorance of language they pannot coni- municate their ideas to each other ? It certainly is surprising that the Bri- tish gpvernment have paid SQ Uttle attenr tion to this point. So long as there is peace in Canada, the language (to Bfitaip at least) is of less consequence; but, in case of war with America (which is at all events ^possible case), the i^peakiug French, i^nd French onlt/, n^ust be a bar to the Canadians co-operating with British troops, or acting with effect uncjer the command of a British officer. In this view qf the case, the conduct of our governors has, I think, been contrary to evpry principle of com- mon sense and prudence. In Lower Canada there are about 6'0,0QQ militia. They are mustered at stated pe- riods ; and in the towns, they are clothed and armed, and have Ijsarned the business of soldiers so well, that they are fit to be brigaded with the troops of the line. One would naturally have supposed, that the Canadians and the English would have been mixed together, and taught their exercise in English, so as to dp away, as much as S43 possible, the distinction of nations; and that they might all be in the habit of obey- ing a British officer, and acting under Bri- tish command. Precisely the reverse of all this has taken place. The English and Canadians are divided into separate corps. The Canadians are officered by their own people; taught theii exercise in French; and form a perfectly distinct body from the English. If brigaded with English troops, they could not understand the word of command, nor act with effect. In short, if the governor of Canada had intended to make them fit materials for Bonaparte to use against us, he could not have resorted to a better plan than what has been adopt- ed here: upon this point all the world cry out; indeed it seems so absurd, it is hardly credible. There seems to be no doubt, that go- vernment, by a temperate and steady ap- plication of the influence and powers they possess, might long ere now have made English the prevailing language in the towns at least, and probably among:, tthe leading people in every part of the country ; and I ■ i! \:m'\ m Is: " ■;i-' I 1 il; I " %■'■: \\V !i,l' 1h M i^\: S44 have no doubt that by the same means it may still be done. It is supposed (and I believe not with-r out good grounds), that the principal check to the prevalence of the English language is, that the clergy silently oppose it. An attempt should be made either to induce them to second the wishes of government, or at least to remain neater. The most ef-. fectual means of doing so would be to abo- lish tythes, and pay the clergy a fixed salary out of the public purse. It would be a very easy matter to raise a fund for this purpose. The abolition of tythes would be attended with a great many advantages, agricultu* ral, as well as political. It is an event greatly wished for, I believe, in England : there, however, many obstacles present them-? selves, which do not exist here; and I doubt not that it would be so popular a measure, that the clergy, with all their influence, could not oppose it. Indeed, it is a matter of some doubt whether they would not themselves prefer a sum certain, — paid at once, to the vexatious operation of collecting tythes from a hupdred hands. I . r 345 If we take a view of the increase of po- pulation in Upper and Lower Canada for some years past, we shall see that the in- crease of those speaking English has been much greater, in proportion to the original stock, than of those speaking French ; so that, in time, these will be left in the mi-r nority. This arises from the great influx of people from Europe, and from the United States, who generally prefer set^ tling either in Upper Canada, or in the Townships of Lower Canada, where land is more easily procured, and the tenures bet- ter understood, That you may completely understand the distinction of tenures, it may be necessary to explain to you how lands are granted and held in Canada; this I sh^ll ^ttepipt to do in hyy ne^tt letter. iif I ■ii I I m ■■J i / u 346 Hi LETTER XXIV. Qvebee, l$08. At the conquest of this country by the English, the Canadians were allowed to retain their private property, as well real as personal ; and as they were afterwards indulged with their own laws, the lands continued to be held by the old French tenures. All the land on both sides of the river St. Lawrence from the gulf, up to the boundary of Lower Canada, about thirty miles above Montreal, was granted by the French king to certain individuals, who became seigneurs, or lords of the territory. The tenure was of a feudal nature: they held immediately of the king en jftef or en roture, and rendered him foi ^t hom^ mage (fealty and homage) on their accesr sion to the property ; on a transfer of the 347 seigneurie, they pay a fifth part of the value, called the Quints. This is still the case ; it is paid to the receiver-general, who gives you a receipt on your title, and puts you in possession. These seigneuries are large tracts of country, and they have from time to time been conceded by the seigneurs in a variety of lots to those who might want to settle on, and improve them. These grants or concessions are also of a feudal nature; the grantees are the vassals of their lord. There is seldom any considera- tion given at first, but they are bound to pay a small sum, generally about 5s. a year, besides a bushel of wheat, and a couple of fowls in name of rent. They also pay 7ofs et t;aw/s (mutation fines) on every subsequent transfer of the property, by sale, or by long lease, called Bail am- pheteotique. They are to perform certain annual services to their lord, and the}'^ must carry to his mill all the corn they wish to have ground, of which he retains a fourteenth part, as moufure, or miller's fee. Since the English have had possession )|| ' ■ i; :l I -Ml •■ ' I l.« - .1 348 of the Canadas, the whole of Lower Ca- nada not before granted to seigneurs has been surveyed by government, and divided into townships. These townships are about ten miles square, and have been granted to a variety of individuals, who have had influence enough with government to pro* cure them. They are held by the English tenure of free and common soccage. The Quebec act (1791) declares that nothing therein contained shall extend to lands held in free and common soccage ; hence it has been argued that the old laws of Canada do not reach such lands : many are still of opinion, however, that the Ca- nadian laws, and common Canadian mort-* gages in particular, do extend to the townships. It is a point on which the learned in the law differ, and 1 will not pretend to decide it. The original grantees of the townships are bound by their titles to have a certain number of settlers on their lands in a given time. No mention is made what sort of people these are to be j and as the Americans have in many places cultivated their lands up to the Canadian line of 349 boundary, the townships lie very conve* nient for them ; accordingly, immense num« bers of Americans (about 15,000 I have heard) have settled on the townships, and continue to do so. It may be proper here to trace the line of boundary between the United States and Canada. The boundaries of Canada are very ill defined on the side of the United States.—* They have been the subject of much di^ ference of opinion, and of a great deal of unpleasant discussion, from the time of the declaration of American independence, up to the present day. In the discussions on this subject, in a diplomatic point of view, the Americans have uniformly had the ad- vantage of us ; and that from many causes. Their local knowledge was perfect; they had the most hiinute information as to the value of the territory in all its dif- ferent bearings; and they knew how to estimate the importance of territory, and the use of rivers ; for they looked forward to the period when tracts of coun- try, though then covered with almost im- penetrable forests, should be cleared and become populous districts. The short space '111 ff 'III i ^t ! 1 'Ill h\'\l4 ^ir ;!i *!• I'll I'll \ ,!t \ 1';, ! I m 350 of time in tvhich this has happened, shews how correct they were in their views; and leaves us no alternative, but to regret that our commissioners should have been so easily persuaded to extend the line of boundary in the manner they did. The second article ofthe definitive treaty of peace runs thus :— " And that all dis' " putes which might arise in future on the " subject of the boundaries of the United " States may be prevented, it is hereby " agreed and declared that the following '' are, and shall be, the boundaries, viz. from the north-west angle of Nova Scotia, viz. that angle which is formed by a line " drawn due north, from the source of St. " Croix river, to the highlands ; along the " said highlands, which divide those rivers " which empty themselves into the river St. " Lawrence, from those which fall into the " Atlantic Ocean, to the northwesternmost " head of Connecticut river ; thence down " along the middle of that river to the 45th " degree of north latitude; from thence by " a line due west on said latitude, until it ** strikes the river Iroquois, or Cataraguy ; ** thence along the middle of the said river (C (C of u ' <^ 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WIBSTiR,N.Y. 14SS0 (716)«7a-4S03 m '«■'.) i' hi » 364 In the late treaty with America (nego- ciated with Lord Holland), which was re- jected bj the president, very little altera- tion was made in those articles of the for- mer treaty, which were most found fault with. It appears very extraordinary, that the Americans should see cause to reject the treaty, and that we should see cause to rejoice that they had done so ; yet, I will venture to affirm, that no one, who is ac- quainted with the commercial relations be- tween the United States and our American provinces, will hesitate to say, that he con- ceives it fortunate that the late treaty was rejected. On the termination of the American war, it appears to have been the intention of government to make the river Fonob* scot, in the district of Mam^ the boundary line of the two countries. At that time, there were no settlements to the eastward of that river. Unfortunately, the English commissioners (probably from not being personally acquainted with the country, and not being sufficiently instructed on the point, or, from being over persuaded by the Americans), abandoned that !\ne of (nego- was rc- j altera- the for- id fault ry, that o reject :ause to t, I will lo is ac- ions be- mericaa he con- jaty was merican ntention Ponob' ovmdary at tiikie, astward English )t being country, d on the aded by ; ?\ne of 355 I boundary which was clear and well defined, and adopted the river St, Croix, which hai produced so much dissension and discus^ siott. The map clearly shews, that the Po- tiofoscot was the preferable boundary, in every sense of the word ; and we have only now to regret the passiveness, and neglect of British interests, which our commissi- oner displayed on that point. It is equally conspicuous in his consenting that a line, drawn dut north fmm the source of the ri- ver St. Croix, to the highlands, should be the boundary ; without ascertaining how far that line would be convenient and proper in its whole course. In fact, it has turned out quite the reverse ; because the commu- nication between Canada and New Bruns- wick is completely cut off by it — the route for many miles passing through American territory. This ought to have been looked into, and the line, instead of going directly tiorth to the Mountains, ought to have turned to the westward, so as to allow a free communication between New Bruns- wick and Canada, along the^ only route practicable and convenient, viz. by the fi- ver St. John, and the lake Timiskuata.— t? I!lli' r' hi : *; I.; I l.'r It : 356 This circumstance is not generally known ; but ministers ought to attend to it, and re* medy it, if possible; for, in case of any disturbance with the Americans, it may be of very great consequence to preserve a communication between New Brunswick and Canada. Even now, the regular post for the conveyance of mails and dispatches from Nova Scotia to Canada, passing through a part of the American territory^ is liable to be stopped by that government, either from political motives, or from any other cause. ^ The route, at present, frbm New Bruns- wick to Canada, is up the river St. John, in the bay of Fundy , through the woods towards the river St. Lawrence. From St. John's to Frederic Town, the distance is 90 miles ; from thence, to the grand falls, 1 80 miles ; from thence, to the settlement of Madawaskoy 45 miles ; from thence, to the source of the river St. Jolm, the lake Tim.isk'uata, 45 miles ; from thence, cross a portage, or tract, in a very rugged coun- try, to the Riviere des Caps, in the St. Law- rence, 36 miles. This last part of the jour- ney must be performed on foot, there be- nownj md re- [>f any nay be lerve a nswick ar post patches passing irritory^ •nment, )m any Bruns- t. John, 3 woods rom St. ance is id falls, tlement jnce, to the lake e, cross id coun- $t. Law- ;he jour- lere be- 357 ingno regular formed road ; the previous part of the journey can be performed in canoes. From the Riviere des Caps to Quebec, the distance is 121 miles; there is a good car« riage road, and you can travel pout* In many cases, the making a ridge of mountains a boundary betwixt two coun- tries, may be very distinct and well de- fined ; such as the Pyrenees, for instance, where the course of the mountains is con- tinued in one undivided chain; the ground, the water of which runs into France, be- longs to France; and the ground, the wa- ter of which runs into Spain, belongs to Spain: but the highlands, mentioned in the American treaty, are, from every thing I can learn, neither so boldly marked, nor continued in that undivided manner, so as to make them a boundary sufficiently dis- tinct. Such as they are, however, we must abide by them ; and it is ever to be refl:ret- ted, that, since that principle was adopted in one part of the line, it should not have been adopted in another, viz. the borders of Lake Champlain, which discharges it- self into the river St. Lawrence, and natu^ rally belongs to Canada. I j U ' til m ill m H h:)\ m I 11 I 'M' i« I » • M m V 'I 1^' '•I ■'J • ! 358 Had the north side of the Vermont mountains, and the lake, as high as Skeens- boro, or even Crown Point, been included in Canada (and which, I have been assured, would have been granted had it been in- sisted upon), the advantage to Canada now would have been very great; and if, in» stead of the line 45, the line of boundary had run from Skeensboro, or even Crown, Point, due west, it would have included the whole river St. Lawrence to Lake On- tario, and rendered the river infinitely more valuable to Canada. At present, it is a line ef boundary for a considerable way, and would, in case of war, be of no use to either party. The distance from the mouth of the ri-» ver St. Croix, to the termination of the line north, in the highlands, separating the wa-* ters which run into the St. Lawrence, from those which run into the Atlantic, is from 3 to 400 miles ; from thence, south-west, along the line of highlands (for the Ame-» rican geographers have laid down a very pretty chain o^ mountains in the very course they could wish them to be), tq where the Connecticut riv^r crosses the p^-^ 4:^ mont Leen»- luded jured, en in- anow if, iiw ndary Drown ;luded le On^ ^mare » a line y, and use to the ri-» he line he wa- e, from is from h-west, 5 Ame-» a very e very )e), tQ the p^^ 359 rallel 45, the distance is about 400 miles ; from thence, the parallel 45 crosses the Icwer end of Lake Champlain, and comes to the St. Lawrence a little above Lake St. Francis, a distance of about 150 miles ; so that there is^ a line of boundary of from 900 to 1000 miles between Lower Canada, New Brunwick, and the United States. The line which separates Upper Canada from the United States is continued from the parallel 45, up the St. Lawrence, through the Lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron, Lake Superior, Lake of the Woods, and so on to the north-west, through an immense extent of country, known only to the In- dians, who wander through it, and to the North^z^est Company, who go to trade with them. It is particularly well known to Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who, with a lauda- ble ambition for discoveries, and a bold and manly line of conduct, accomplished in 1793 a journey to the. Pacific Ocean, over a country that had never been trod- den by the foot of a European. By this journey, and another which he made to the Northern Ocean, he ascertained two very ■'l.Mi w\ i'l m iiy*. 'a ''^ I^M UHi- m -.:'' 360 important points, viz. the practicability of opening an overland trade with the shores of the Pacific, and from thence with China, and with India; and the impossibility of there being any north-west passage from Europe to China, by the Northern Ocean. The line of boundary between Lower Canada, and the United States, would, in case of a war, attract much attention. Al- though it is extensive, there are, compara^ tively, few places where an army could en- ter. The greatest part of the country through which the river St. John runs, is a continued forest, aiid impassable; and the country to the north of the highlands, from thence as high up as Quebec, except near the St. Lawrence, is pretty much in the same state, without any thing like a road, till you get as high as the river Chau*' diere, which fails into the St. Lawrence a little above Quebec. It rises about a hun- dred miles up the country, in the highlands, fcrming the line of boundary. A road is formed up this river (or a considerable part of its course; but, I believe, it is not con- tinued quite through ; the tpwnsliips in it^ CQurse, not being all settled. ;.**.■ P' ity of hores 'hina, 'there urope Lower My in . Al- nparar lid en- ountry ans, is ;; and ilands, except ach iu like a Chau^- l-ence a a hun- ilands, road is le part [)t cou- »s in it^ 361 The bankf* of lj\e St. Lawrence, from the lowest settlement, up to this river, an* not cultivated backwards to a great distance, seldom above 10 or 15 miles, in a diie( l line from the riven The distance of tl.e A niei i^ can line, from the river St. Lawrence, is not well ascertained ; it nmst vary, as the high- lands advance or recede; upon an aveiv 0ge, it is probably about 50 to OO miles. When you get as high as the river Chau- diere, the highlands retire towards tiiC south, leaving a country between them and the St. Lawrence of the breadtii ol near a hundred miles. Jt contracts again as it approaches the St. Lawrence on the paraU lei 45, In this tract of country arc tl.e southern townships of Canada ; they run behind the Seigneurics the whole way ivum ^ique, V'O miles below Quebec, to tiie termination of the parallel 45 in the St. Lawrence^, upwards of 200 mi.v above Quebec; but they lie principally between the river Chaudiere and the river Cliaiubiie. The Seigneuries do not in general recede from the river above eight or ten mih s. i i\ the country backwards, as far as the Amc- / yjcan line, are found the townships,^ . ,*» ■»-■ » i I 1 1 I ; M i 1 It ^^ ,1 m 362 In each township, the crown, when it makes a grant, reserves one-seventh for future disposal, and one-seventh for, the future support of the protestant c!crgy.— « The crown reserves also the right of cutting wood fit for ship-building. Besides the road on the river Chau- diere, there is another on the riyer Fa- maska, about a hundred miles further up. This river discharges itself into that part of the St. Lawrence called Lake St. Peter's. A third road, a little further to the west, comes from Burlington, on the east side of Lake Champlain, and down the river Chamblie. A fourth road comes in from the state of New York, by Odlestown to Laprairie, oppositeM ontreal . Besides these roads, there may have been some opened very lately, and per- haps there may be a few tracks, known only to the natives, which, in case of war, might be serviceable to Aniericans, though they would not be so to British soldiers. An American is at home in the woods, and could easily find his way, and live, where an Englishman would lose himself and die. 363 The unfortunate soldiers, who attempt to desert from Quebec by the Chaudiere road, find the impossibility of passing through woods with which they are unacquainted. They, almost without one instance to the contrary, are brought back, after having delivered themselves up to some of the country people, to be conducted to Que- bec. If we should unfortunately go to war with America, the less our troops are iiv the woods the better. I am not qualified to giv« an opinion as to the best manner of defending Canada. In case of an at^ tack, every thing that soldiers can do, will be done ; for the troops are kept in excel- lent order, and in good spirits. I should suppose that Upper Canada is more vulne- rable than Lower Canada. It not only has no strong holds, but as the line of boun- dary runs through the lakes, boats might be prepared, and troops might be carried over in any numbers, and landed at any given point, unless they were obstructed by our navy; for on those lakes we have a navy, which rides as triumphant as that of the ocean. During the American war we had several armed ships on the lakesj anu .i:j U!! i ! ; 1 M ! ■ 1 ( Ij . 1 • •li' II • 1 '<\ ' 1 ■ 1 Mi IM i i' i;; i ' j i 'ii IJ ■ i ' ' ij 1 - ! I 1 t 1 ■■i ; 1 i 1 ! * II ■ , i ■i i . ii : il ' : i'ili i 1' i i ■ii Ill 1 J 1 • 1 ■■:< , I »! • 1 1 - ! \u li ^ ; -^m^^ ^ '! i ■■ iri 564, even now we have a few, with a regular establishment of officers. I do not know if it was the intention of government that Americans should be al- lowed to settle in the townships. Whether it is sound ])olicy or not, is a question which has been much agitated here ; and it certainly involves many difficulties. In one point of view the Americans are pre- ferable to any other people, because there are no people who so well understand the business of clearing a new country, and making it productive. They are active, in- dustrious, hardy, and enterprising, to a degree, that is scarcely to be credited, till ocular demonstration convinces you of the fact. In these points, the Canadians are not to be compared to them ; nor are any of the emigrants from Europe by any mean» so valuable. In short, the American, whef^ he makes a pitch (as they term it, when they make an establishment in the woods) ift quite at home, and following the profes-* sion he has been habituated to from his. infancy. The emigrant from Europe has every thing to learn ; and, besides that, he has to unlearn all his European habits. » • Therecan be no doubt, that the greater '* A- ular nof I al- ther ition und In pre- therc d the and e, in-i to a d, till )fthe s are any eans when^ they Is) ift rofes-t his ie has it, he ts. i-ealev S65 the number of inhabitants such a country as Canada possesses, the greater will be the amount of its productions, and the better market will it be for the manufactures of the mother country. The more industri- ous and enterprising the people are, the better ; because over and above their own wants, a large surplus produce will be found for exportation, raising thereby a fund to pay for manufactures imported. It is this which will make Canada of conse- quence to Britain ; and the most expeditious method of bringing about such an end would naturally be adopted, were there no political considerations to be attended to ; but Britain, in order to increase the pro- ductions of Canada, and open a larger mar- ket for h^r manufactures, must not adopt means which would have a tendency to de- prive her of the country altogether. Canada is a desirable country for emi- grants, particularly the south-west parts of it, where the climate is moderate, as is the case in Upper Canada. In fact, popula- tion increase^ fast both in Upper and Lower Canada, as you may well be con- . vinced of, since, in the course of little ;;!i It I H ^li . 'I 1 I i!i^ .1 1| I .• J- 'I 1 M ,♦' • ' • m iiG6 more than forty years, the increase has been from 75,600 to 300,000, which is nearly doubling every 20 years. Government have not hitherto inter- fered with the proprietors of the Seigneu- ties and townships; they have been suffered to dispose of their lands in any way they thought proper, and to any people they chose, whatever their principles, religious or political, might be; and whatever coun- try they might come from. Since the commencement of the present misunderstanding with the United States, some doubts have arisen as to the propriety and policy of allowing so man~' Americans to come into Canada, and pr rticularly to giving them tracts i>f land on :he back of the townships, contiguous t' their own boundaries. It seems more advisable to confine them to the neighbc irhood of the Seigneuries, where they wou. J be more un- der the eye of government, and the cogni- isance of the law. There exists amongst the old Canadians a strong prejudice against the Americans; they are jealous of their increasing num- bers in Canada ; they hate them most cor- V m i fji ' 367 i dially : indeed, that is not surprising, for they have, from the first estabUshment of the colony, been almost constantly in a state of warfare. Les sacra Bostonois, is the usual epithet for all Americans, from whatever part of the country they may come. It is not the old Canadians alone who have imbibed prejudices against the Americans; the British seem to have caught the infection, for which, indeed, they are a good deal predisposed from their early prepossessions at home. This prejudice will cease, or give way, gradu- ally, as they know each other better. The Americans are, I should suppose, just as fit materials to make good subjects of, as any other people. All mankind require good laws over their heads, and that jus- tice should be strictly and impartially ad- ministered; wherever this happens, you will h^ve quiet and good subjects, in course of time, of whatever country they may have originally been. Some people think that there is more to be apprehended from Bonaparte than from th^ Americans. His ambition and thirst for dominion are pretty evident ; he would u, I 'II ■J '^ '■! ii I ! ilil 1 I / i I ) , ■\': .;»■'' n ?.. ' I " ;• Jiejoiee to get possession oif Canada :< lid Wants colonies and commerce. It is thought that a few thousand French troops* could they find their uay into Canada* would be well received by the Canadians, and would very soon possess themselves of the coun- try : at leastj they would unhinge our go-^ vernment* and confine our power to Que- bec. In this point of view the Canadians are as dangerous as the Yankees. I should suppose we need not be un* der any apprehensions from either* Let the Canadian endeavour to eradicate from his mind any remaining partiality for France ; for surely no nation has so com- pletely vilified itself. Well may the de*- scendents of old France say, ** You are a reproach amongst the nations — we know you no more 1" The Canadian ought to fraternize with those around him : he ought to be thankful for the blessings he enjoys under the auspices of Great Britain — a nation which rears its head amongst the natio!:Z of the earth ; because honor, energy, and good faith, are in her councils; — vir- tue, integrity, and industry, amongst her pieople. i: hd ought could M be would coun- mr go-^ ) Que^ ladians be un* '. Let te from ity for \o com- the de- urare a ; know ught to e ought ; enjoys tain — a gst the energy, s; — vir- igst her V 369 . The policy of the mother country, in regard to the management of colonies, is complex. The principal object is to pre- serve their allegiance and dependence, and have such command of their resources, as to be able to bring them forward at any time, when the motlier country may have occasion for them. Ever}'^ thing will natu- rally be done by the mother country to in- crease those resources, and promote the general prosperity of the colony, so long as the primary objects are not endangered. — Were there any risk of that sort, I should have no hesitation in adopting a line of conduct calculated to preserve these pri- mary objects in full force, though the growth of the colony might thereby be checked. It has been said, that we have lost no- thing by the United States becoming in- dependent, because they take our manu- factures to a greater amount than they did before they became independent. Sup- pose they do, the conclusion does not fol- low as a matter of course. I am inclined to think, that our losing the sovereignty of the United States has been a very great ' B B ■ I, ''3 ( :| i i ! ! 'i I ' i it f l-'l ■'Mi' 370 misfortune. It probably would ha\^ been better for Britain to have preserved Ame- rica in due allegiance, and to have had the command of her resources, and of her mar- ket, though her population, instead of six millions, had only reached to four, and that our exports had not been half of what they have been for some years past. Bet' ter half a loaf than no bread.'— ^e should not have been annoyed by non-importation acts and embargoes,commercial interfer- ences, disputed treaties, &c.— Let tis look well to our remaining North American colonies, lest the sakne thing should be- fal us. . r { APPENDIX. Ill I! ii No. I, sa,eralJcts oft/^ BritUh Parliament. 6 Geo. ir. c. 13. Sterling. 4 Geo. in, c. i5.-< Foreign sugars, per cwt. rOitto, white or clayed, per cwt. l-oreigii indigo, per lb. - Oitto, coffee, per cwt. - Madeira ") I Portugal,Spani8h,and other wines. 1 t from Great Britain, per tun }» « G». III. 0. 35 JM;Ser;'pt^°r,„r"'r r- 1 ( British pimento, per lb. . o -Brandy or other spirits, manufac- > turcd in Britain, per gailf)n (» Ditto from Colonies in America I Brandy, or other foreign spirits > 88.^ imported from Britain - ' \ Kuin, or spirit, the produce of Co lonies in America the dominion of imported from any than Great Britain M lasses, in British bottoms * U^ao, m any other I 2 6 2 19 6 9 7 10 7 1 f: Of s 1^ Geo. HI. c. 1 6 9 Iritain" T 'JO 1 ! produce of Co- N ica, not under I •f his Majesty, >0 1 any other place \ in - J 3 (> :! :: % I i.' I 372 * '4 i' I/.; ;•; '! Additional Duties Jaid on hy the Prmncial Par- liament, Acts S3 Geo. IIL cap. 8.-35 Geo. IIL c, 9.— flwrf41 Geo. IIL c. 14. Foreign brandy, or other foreign spirits, per gallon Rum, per gallon - - " " Molasses and syrups, per gallon - - Madeira wine, by one act 4d. and hw another 2d. Other wines, by one act 2d. by another id. Loaf, or lump sugar, per lb. - Muscovado, or clayed sugar, per lb. Coffee, per lb. - Leaf tobacco, per lb. - - " Playing cards, per pack - • - Salt, per minot - - " " Snun, per lb. - - " Tobacco, manufactured m any other way Sterling. ^ £' t. i. 3 3 3 6 s 1 oi 2 2 4 4 4 3 Iff) I: n I I Duties imposed hy a Provinciar Act, for building Gaols, to continue six Years, from the ^5th March, 1805. Boheatea, per lb. Souchong, black, per ditto - - '^ Hyson - - " " '_ '^ Green teas " ,. " ' h ' Spirits, or other strong liquors, per gallon • Wines """""! Molasses and syrups Goods sold at auctidn, Si per cent, on amount of sales. 2 4 6 4 3 3 '. y ' I- .i. ■ f. 375 3 3 3 6 s 1 oi 2 2 4 4 4 3 2 4 6 4 3 3 No. II. Allowances at the Custom-house. Deduction of Weight. On coffee, in bales or bags, 3 lbs. for every cwt in casks, 12 lbs. per ditto Loaf sugar, in casks or boxes, 15 ifc pJrcwt Leaf tobacco, in casks, 12lbs. percwt^ hTndrT""' 'P'"^'' ^"^ ™°'--' 3 g^JIons on eve,y Th. P i '/" allowance of 3 Wiinots per hundred Ine import duty on salt ■« A.A «». " """°'fa. the east bank of tL ivS Sag^ena? oITTi' ^^ ^^T^"^ ^'^^ Lawrence, and below the easfS^fthl!- "'*'"?? "'de of the St. the south side, is not subjecT o dmy Th. Jl",Pj'"J* ^"»' «» at the Custom-house, 4d. on ever? LhH 5 i^" ^ ^'T''' ''*<'1». I.ort of Quebec, to any place beyond the a^^^^^^^^ "^^''^ ^'^'^ »h« tierce of salmon; and45. onemv blrreffeu'TK 'Z**' °" «^«'y «Ited fish of any'sort, exportedl^Jm ^s p,oWa,1 '^^ °' ^'''' ^' ■ ! M' ■If \ h ! 1 si H ^ i' f i 'I !tf r| 374 ift r^ No. III. Post Office Regulations* At the beginning of every month a packet sails from Falmouth for North America, having on board a mail for Quebec. In the summer months she puts in at Halifax, in her way to New York, and there delivers the mail for Canada. From Halifax they are forwarded by land to Quebec. In the months of November, De- cember, January, ana February, the packets pass Halifax, and deliver the mails for Canada, to the agent for British packets at New York, who forwards them through the United States by post to Montreal. A mail for England is dispatched from Quebec once every fort- night in summer, and once a month in winter, to be sent by first packet for England. A mail for Burlington, in the United States, is made up at Que* bee every Thursday, and at Montreal every Saturday, by which conveyance letters may be sent for Europe, undercover, to a friend at New York, on paying the Canadian postage. The post for Mon- treal leaves Quebec every Monday ana Thursday, and leaves Mon- treal for Quebec on the same days. Post arrives at these places on Wednesoays and Saturdays. A monthly communication, by post, between Lower and Upper Canada^ has been lately opened. Vi .' ■ '•;'!■ §'-■:' -^S: 375 No. IV. Roads and Distances in Canada. From Quebec to Halifax. Miles. From Quebec to Point Levi, cross tlie river - 1 Thence to the Portage at Riviere de Cap - 1»1§ Thence to Tiiniskuala . _ - 36 Thence to the settlement of Madnaska - 45 Thence to the great Falls in river St. John - 4A Thence to Frederick town - - - 180 Thence to St. John's - - • - 90 Thence to Halifax .... iggf '(Ml i! I 708 From Quebec to Michelemakinak, at the entrance of Lake Huron, To Montreal To Coteau de Lac To Cornwrall To Matilda To Augusta To Kingston To Niagara To Fort Erie - To Detroit To Michelemakinak 184 225 266 301 335 385 625 560 790 1107 From Quebec to Netv York, by way of Montreal. To Cape Rouge To St. A.ugustin To Jacques Cartier To St. Anne's - To Three Rivers To Riviere de Loup To Berthiere To Repentign6 To Montreal 9 9 15 30 - - 22 87 83 32 18 Carried over 184 > L ill 'f hi 4 11. ■.;?■ ™ 376 «, , Brought over To Laprairie To St John's To Isle ail Noi To Windmill Point To Savase's Point To Sandbar To Burlington, the first post town in the States To Skeensboro* To Fort Anne To Dnmont's Ferry To Watcrford To Albany City To Hudson City To Rhincbcck To Poughkapsie To Perkskiir - To Kinsrsbridire To New Yorf Miles. 14 14 It to 14 78 It t4 t4 IS 34 31 17 34 34 15 184 89 150 105 588 i*". I 377 184 n - 89 — 150 165 588 No.V. 2w/ of Governors of Canada y from the Conquest^ with the Date of their Appointments. -1 James Murray, 21 at November P. M. Irvine, President, 30th June Ouytarleton Lieutenant Governor and Commander in Chief. 24th September Ditto, 26th October H.TCramah^, Preside-t, gtH August 1 I OuyCarleton, 1 1 th October - F. Haidiman - - I I *^ "nlief""' ^'^"^^"""^ Governor and Commander in > H. Hone, Lieutenant Governor and Commander in Chief Lord Dorchester, Governor General t\;,S n''*'V^'^'"^"^"^ Governor and Commander in Chief Lord Dorchfsler, 24th September Robert Prescmt . . _ " Sir Robert M lines, Lieutenant Governor T 1 homas Diinn, President, and supcrspflcd by !sir James Craig, Governor and Captain General :J 17^3 1766 1766 1768 »770 1774 1778 1784 1785 1786 I7M1 1793 I7y6 1807 Ill if ' m in. ill 1^ •»» ••»«»<•■ u^' "p-i- ,1 *it w 378 r . .1. II No. VI. List of the Counties in Lower Canada^^the Num- ber of Representatives in the Provincial As- sembly — and the Number of Parishes, Parishes. Meinl>er». GMp6 - - - « CoriiwnWis ' '♦ • ■ Devon . . - - Hertford , - - - Dorchester - Buckinghamshire . - - Kichefieii . - - - And for the town of William Henry, in ditto Bedford .... Surrey _ - - - Kent . . - - Huntingdon . - - York . - - - Montreal - - - - EfHngham - - - - Leinster - - - Warwick . « • •, St. Maurice . - - Hampshire •*,•*• Quebec • • • Northumberland - • Orleans - - - " 1 8 9 t 9 9 t 1 t 9 9 9 2 for town 4 county 2 3 2 6 k 4 2 ? county 2 Three none 11 6 7 4 12 7 '1 ) J Three) « J Rivers 5 * } 7 2 , . county 2 ^ * town 4 1 2 1 50 ■J. ,.,t.... ti' mm*' ■ lull- y. ',:. 'A-jf ^; . m' m^iM I az4 Cwto. »4l 500 3,69a 511 18 JJ75 ■) /- 'i? ;i I I •'•■■\\il No. VII. An Account of the principal Articles of Provision and Lumber imported into his Ma 1804, 1805, and 1806: distinguishing each Year; each Island or Colony resp luch Articles were imported. :. ~ • 1804. SPECIES and ISLANDS. The UNITED KINGDOM. BRITISH Continen'.al COLON ES. ST.ATES of AMERICA. OTHER COUNTRIES. CORN.— Antigua Barbadoes Dominica Grenada Bushels. 16,048 40,894 8,642 13.^58 21,666 2,499 5,<'93 17,244 I3,'9S 1,012 3,657 8,180 3,452 3,088 6,712 Bushels. 2,025 811 I, III lOI 84 24 Bushels. 179-065 26,242 3,828 17,626 70,533 4,6i7 22,846 12,619 25.641 894 14,304 14,386 7,727 4.703 27,755 BusheU. ' l,'897 510 680 1,300 130 i»5 Jamaica Montserrat Nevis ..... ...... St. Kitts St. Vincents Tortola. ... Trinidad Demerara St. Lucia Surinam Tobaeo * \ Total 165.540 4,156 432,786 4,63a BREAD, ") Antigua FL< lUK , f Barbadoes and ^ Dominica MEAL. ) Grenada Jamaica Montserrat Cwts. 790 2,015 45 2,860 12,075 125 1,925 1,600 610 5 160 440 20 865 Cwts. 52 264 773 1,020 1,373 26 19 700 9 Cwts. 36,417 93,457 13,755 22,456 i6s,740 1,914 7,213 27,-183 15,578 2,179 42,735 95.096 9.322 20,517 14345 Cwts. ^6 • • •«•«•• 327 378 2,266 3,554 105 St. Kitts St. Vincents Tortola Trinidad Demerara ..... St. Lutia Surinam Tobago Total. . . . »3.535 4,236 568,207 6,656 1805. Tlie UNITED KINGDOM. BRITISH Continental COLONIES. STAl of AMER Bushels; 25,454 26,543 7>054 10,414 17,422 3,574 7,623 16,498 9,572 652 5.429 8,131 221 1.436 5,739 Bushels. 936 123 234 469 40 * "534 560 200 Busht 184, 37, I, 14, 49, 2, 40, 13,. 14.< 2,< 10, 3, 4, I, 16, I45f762 3,096 399, Cwts. 3.315 12,185' 165 2,525 12,960 210 2,065 1,810 lOO 605 75 45 995 Cwts. 131 406 »75 23 457 395 430 49 350 Cwts 44, 9S> II.: 2I,< I02,( 2,. 8,c 27,( 18,' I,> 34.' I4,( ",' 20,2 9.S 37.055 2,416 4*4,: \ No. VII. »er imported into his Majesty's Colonies in the West Indies, in the Years Island or Colony respectively; and the several Countries from which 1805. 1806. The UNITED KINGDOM. BUITISH Continentiil COLONIES. STATES of AMERICA. or HE a COUNTRIES. The UNITED KINGDOM. BRITISH Continental COLONIES. STATES of AMERICA. OTHER COUNTRIES. Busheiti 25,454 26,543 7.054 10,414 17.422 3,574 7.613 16,498 9.572 652 5,429 8,131 221 1.436 5,739 145,762 Bushels. 93*6 123 434 469 40 " 534 560 200 Bushels, 184,628 37,657 1,767 14,987 49,928 a,595 40,680 13.549 14,646 2.019 10,751 3,738 4.350 1,835 16,396 Bushels. 385 126 403 1,120 4,227 1,180 44 • • - • • • • • Bushels. 34.430 53,4*55 9,912 21,285 15.974 6,230 . 5,035 31,759 16,486 1.730 7,226 9.811 851 14,197 10,014 Bushels. 604 314 1,450 210 Bushels. 169,201 22,683 6,961 9.966 82,043 6,345 14,433 19,299 16,637 2,001 7,991 4,846 2,222 4,515 17.133 Bushels. 764 450 3.096 399,526 7>470 238,203 2,578 386,256 1,214 Cwts. 3.315 12,185- 2.545 12,960 210 2,065 1,810 100 605 75 45 995 Cwts. 131 406 175 43 457 395 430 49 350 Cwts. 44,997 95,176 11.231 21,658 102,616 4,549 8,088 27,092 18,354 34,377 14,686 11,790 20,291 9,945 Cwts. 14 4,802 499 266 700 737 i,*95 640 Cwts. 6,195 14,610 40 3,085 8,405 ISO 2,180 3,»20 795 50 965 455 1,040 1,015 Cwts. 48*3 609 381 236 • • t • • • • Cwts. 34,242 78,475 18,844 12,812 142,350 1.955 8,682 21,017 11,212 1,482 25.872 12,976 7.518 i3,4»4 7. "7 Cwt». 241 500 3,694 SI' 37,055 a,4i6 444i343 10,970 44,905 i,7itf 397,966 S,37S The Account of Provisions and Lumber imporj 1804. SPECIES and ISLANDS. The UNITED KINUDOM. BRITISH Continental CULONIES. STATES of AMERICA. OTHER COUNIRIES. Tlie UNITED KINGDOM RICE. . . . Antigua Barbadoes Dominica Grenada Jamaica Montserrat Nevis St.Kitts St. Vincents Tortola , Trinidad Demerara .....•.•. Barrels. 3» 47 Barrels. •> Barrels. 458 2,81 z 396 395 4,024 11 87 243 5» 4 4,259 ■ 4657 362 855 403 Barrels. **" '9*5 X 5 36 75 Barrels. 9 24 ( • k • • • • St. Lucia Surinam Tobago 4 . . . . Total.... 78 17,017 314 33 BEEF and) Antigua PORK. ^Barbadoes Dominica Grenada Jamaica Montserrat N evis .......... Barrels. 1,392 16,761 »rf54 i,3fii 29,151 126 45. 396 48a 46 1, 708 1.659 >93 ».33* 97 Barrels. 70 341 • (•• 633 *44 1*82 '9 1*16 43 Barrels. 5,634 159 2,589 1.875 19,332 231 775 3,700 3,884 228 8,278 M,705 1,583 5,885 2,861 Barrels. *5 53 100 2 10 70 8*2 Barrels. 3,089 13,611 1,161 572 26,468 4 69 437 828 58 639 1,4X1 417 748 124 St.Kitts St. Vincents Tortola Trinidad Demerara St. Lucia ........ Surinam Tobago Total. . . . 57,303 1,638 71.728 540 49,646 FISH, DRY.— Antigua Barbadoes .... Dominica Bar. QiiinI 16 13 6 8c 399 *57 74? 100 16 10 10 50 41 Bar. ttuint. Bar. Quint. 1,54a 3,5*4 3.633 228 1,575 274 44.595 154 435 6 3.550 3,5*4 437 15,110 593 46,910 6 4.815 17,827 5,405 Bar. Quint Bar. Quint. 17 110 55 22 45 542 ,134 9>8 16,050 10 ",355 13,112 137 24,586 4,600 Grenada Jamaica Montserrat .... 18 Nevis i St. Kitts 50 » 3 20 73 28 832 5 72 6 59 2 66 St. Vincents .... 13,878 Tortola Trinidad 15 174 9»7 35 45 116 3» 5,*63 5.494 Demerara St. Lucia Surinam Tobago 140 1,731 35 Total.... 583 & *.497 i47&9i,6o9 1,107 k 153,038 4.703 237 & 2,774 ns and Lumber imported into the British "West Indies— fow/wutfrf. 1805. 1806. TES f RICA. OTHF.n COUN 1 RIES. Tlie UNITED KINGDOM. BRITISH C«nlin<'ntal COLONIES. STATES of AMERICA. OTHER COUNTRIES. Thi! UNITED KINGDOM. BRITISH Continental COLONIES. STATES of AMERICA. OTHER COUNTRIES. Tela. 458 1,8 1 2 396 39 S 4,024 II 87 243 51 4 i,*59 ♦ 657 362 85 s 403 Barrels. '9*S I 5 3*6 75 Darrels. 9 14 « • • • • • • Barrels. 18 • •■•*«•■ • • • • • » • • • ■ • a • « Barrels. 189 1,094 129 471 *,l85 263 182 9 50 « 8i7 3:6 7M "3 Barrels. 1 60 Barrels. 2 1*6 1 31 Barrels. ••■••■ • Barrels. 439 *.373 436 4.094 6 12 238 186 8 985 1,008 229 505 106 Barrels. 45 I 17,017 31* 33 ig 7,»03 61 50 11,100 4fi rels. J.634 159 ,589 .875 ,33a 231 775 ,700 ,884 228 .178 705 885 861 Uarrels. 25 100 210 Barrels. 3,089 13,611 1,161 572 26,468 4 69 ' 437 828 58 639 »,4»i 417 748 124 Barrels. 236 103 314 12 • ••••• • 610 98 ""lis *53 Barrels. I.9»3 1,326 1,919 *,891 14,157 3* i»5 694 1,204 138 10,216 7,895 »,03i 4,543 2,316 Barrels. 56 10 7* 180 8 46 Barrels. 3,857 13.347 776 979 32,281 78 21 222 280 39 1,245 1,657 240 ».538 250 Barrels. 65 133 1,262 75 * •••••••• Barrels, 2,135 25 9.567 416 »57 1.575 1,844 182 6,234 8,168 1,5*1 2,246 1,864 Barrels. *9 728 540 49.646 »,754 51,389 372 56,765 J.53S 39.*26 »44 uint. ,54a ,524 .633 575 595 »54 435 550 5*4 ♦37 no Bar. Quint. Bar. auint. 17 110 55 2Z 45 54* ,134 9'8 Bar. Quint. 55 1.433 314 5,660 3,712 18,181 10 26,240 5 47 1,072 15 13,007 Bar. Quint Bar. Quint. Bar. Quint. 19 16 '5 4 Bar. Quint. 2,982 11 .0 1 6 Bar. Quint. 540 a er Bar. Quint. 4,600 34 2005 755 27,876 5 16 2,99^ 3.443 450 20,410 145 32,604 6,477 11,566 3 8,871 20 16 '» t8 8if 1 A 1% 616 186 478 19,454 17,408 981 25,039 54 89 34 637 2,424 100 488 20,492 40,56 i I 11,785 26,96a i 5,50^ 30 — 1 31C 607 10,955 50 2 3 20 73 28 832 J 72 6 59 2 66 141 t II 7 17 25 54 87 2,380 199 6,315 62 14,238 2,178 1,406 3 6,070 14 7,717 15,302 12 901 1,77) 1 2,59< 4,420 ilQ 35 420 40 807 239 21 E 4,703 237 St. 2,774 50iai99,i32 148 «c 117,44* 605 36; 44,637 'i2&ii3,93- 7 432 & 144,96! i 4,588 CO A \ to the British West Indies^^ontinued. 1805. TISH JNIKS. • • • • • « • • i8 • • • « ' • • • < 1 ... • • • • t • • • • • • • • * • • i8 rels. I** •• r 236 103 « • » • 314 12 [ 610 ■ • • • • 1 • • • • [.28 J ^53 I-- STATES of AMKRICA. OTHER COUNTKIES. Barrels. 189 1,094 129 471 a,i85 23 i8a 9 JO' 8i7 3:6 711 "3 7>»03 Barrels, '.913 1,326 1,919 3,891 I4,IJ7 3» "5 694 1,204 138 10,2 16 7,895 2,031 4,543 a,3i6 r.7S4 ^Quint. 1.431 5,660 3.712 8,181 6,240 5 1,072 15 3,007 • ■ • • 6,315 4.238 2,178 1,406 6,070 51,389 W32 Bar. Quint O O O O O o O O O O 145 o O 3 Barrels. .••*••• 60 61 Uarrtfls. 1806. The UNITED KINGDOM. Barrels. 16 >••••«•) 56 10 7* 180 8 46 372 •••••••« 31 50 Bar. Quiitl. 34 a 005 7-,5 17.876 5 16 ».99^ 3,443 450 20,410 3».6o4 6.477 11,566 8.871 30 141 H 420 148&117,4.W»1 O C05 BarrelH. 3,857 13.347 776 979 32,281 78 21 222 280 39 1,245 1,657 240 1.538 250 BRITISH Continental COLO niiS. Barrtls. « • • • fl 4 • • • • • I BarrelH. *«••••.« 6S 133 1,262 56.765 75 STATES of AMERICA. Barrels. 439 2,373 436 4,094 6 12 238 i)(6 8 985 1,008 229 505 106 II, ICO Ban els. a,i35 25 a,475 817 9.567 416 >57 1.575 1,844 182 6,234 8,168 »,5»i 2,246 1,864 OTHER COUNTRIES. •.53i Bar. Quint. Bar. Quint '9 »5 16 4 o 186 616 478 I o »7 o 87 II 7 *S 54 2,380 39.226 Bar. Quint. 2,982 O 31,016 O 2,9i6!2i8 19,454! c 17,408 o 310 o 607 o 10,955 40 o 807 239 o o 12 o o 7.7»7 15,30* 903 1,771 «,596' o o o 34 o 100 o o o o o 36544,637 la&i 1 3,937 540 „ 55 8.35' 981 25.039 54 89 637 2,424 488 20,49a 40.56 i 12.785 26,961 5.509 Barreii. 45 46 Barrels. X18 37 «9 »44 Bar. Quint. 2t 43'J & 144,068 '99 o 4,420 21 4,588 TES if IIICA. rels. 439 '.373 4SS 436 UO04- 6 la 338 186 8 985 ,008 229 305 106 OTHER COUNTRIES. Barrels. 45 ,100 4« eU. Barrels. ,135 — 25 118 475 -« U17 i_ 567 — 416 — >J7 — 57J 37 »44 i8z — ^34 «9 168 5»i _ 246 ... 864 — 226 *44 luint. Bar. Quiiit. 540 — , 55 — i.:^^^ 2t 981 — 5>039 — S4 i-> 89 — t 637 19, 1,424 488 >- >,49a 4,420 M'Ji '.78J _ ),962 — ).509 il «,968 4,588 ed. 1806. SPECIES and ISjritish •iitinpiilal )LONIE!i STATES of AMERICA. Inrrels. FISH, lAnti]^ 307 PICKLED. J" Barha Domin Greiiai .lamaic Monfs Nevis. St. Kit St. Vir lortol Trinid Demei St. Liu Surina Tobag BUTTER.- 2.654 3'i 268 29,416 > • • • • • 559 618 122 265 263 126 1,468 364 36,741 irk I IIS. Bnrrels. 3.561 32 613 „ 9 30,834 632 1,124 1,603 84r 309 1,294 2.653 3 54 ».5»7 1469 47.845 Firkin». -Antid Barba' Domii • ■ Gren^ Jamaij Mont) ' Nevis •' St. Kii • • St. Vi Torto . . 'I'rini< Deme • • St. Li'. Surin. • < Tobaj 76 72 127 18 12 32 337 No. COWS and ) Anti' < OXEN. 5 Barb Dort" Ore ' Jam " Mo ' Ne^ St. ■ St. • ■ Toi' Tri: ■ Dei • St. Sur • To 232 74 472 200 54 364 305 18 807 2,099 745 980 243 6.593 No. 458 1,464 416 156 166 307 402 430 2IS 1S3 124 4.330 OTHER COUNI-RIES. Barrels. 1402 939 »5 2.37* Firkins. 7 119 45 171 No. _83 12 684 «3 802 . / ( , i i^ I The Account of Provisions and Lumber Imported into the Bril 1804-. 1 1805. SPECIES and ISLANDS. The UNITRU KINGDOM. UIUTISH Ooiitineiiiiil COLONIES. .STATES OTHRR XMeHiCA. t:OUNTIl1ES. The UNITED KINGDOM, BRITKSH Cnntinental COLONIES. STAT of AMERI FISH, 1 Antigua PICKT.RD. J Barbadoes Dominica Grenada Jamaica Barrel!), ao »20 46 43.853 130 50 1,787 293 33 285 a,oi5 Barrvlb. 98 3.2 u 224 184 17,691 • •••••' ■ 414 343 277 298 28*9 6 Harrcls. 2,961 1.974 685 805 18,161 558 637 a.399 778 175 *.27l 5,118 850 3,805 966 liarrcU. 6 100 50 96 18 Barrels. 2T<) 187 20 822 43'»24 no 50 1,877 338 3*8 428 "166 1,458 Barrels. 803 4.696 316 ",.399 421 621 310 134 878 338 329 854 1,011 Barrel 3.4 3 7 I 11,1 I 3 2 2 1,6 i,» 4 2,4 6 Monfserrat Nevis St. Kitts St. Vincents 1 ortola Trinidad . . < Demerara St. Lucia Surinam I'obaero .......... Total.... 50,949 23,035 42,144 270 48,829 23.625 *4,5 BUTTER. — Antigua Barbadoes Dominica Grenada Jamaica Montserrat Firkins. 672 I5.03J 3.648 3.019 11, 965 70 4:6 2.499 416 X,2l8 1,041 805 604 978 76 Firkins. 16 39 Firkins. 38 775 1,040 68 1,867 7 63 238 301 39 1,351 3,408 519 943 400 Firkins. 30 Firkins. 692 11,249 3,>74 8i8 H.493 30a 1,034 858 1,272 1,238 1,742 1,094 2,028 80 Firkins. 12 65 11 33 20 50 49 Firkins 1 2 8 St. Kitts St. Vincents Tortola. ......... 4 I Trinidad Demerara MT . ' St. Lucia Surinam Tobago 4 1.1 3 Total. . . . J»,46a No. I 2 55 n,o47 47 40,074 240 6,4 COWSand ? Antigua OXEN. $ Barbadoes Dominica Grenada Jamaica Montserrat .... No. 7 No. 401 1,369 135 »34 • • • « • • • ""136 307 455 5^5 287 ao3 209 No. 48 1,99* • • • • • • • 23 20 2,083 No. I 7 I II ........ No. No. 3 1,4 2 1 I • • • • • • St. Kitts St. Vincents . . • Tortola Trinidad Demerara St. Lucia Surinam Tobago 1 I 4 3 3 1 Total . . . S 7 4,076 1 9 1 t* ..... 4,' er Imported Into the British West Indies — continued. 1805. 1806. The UNITED KINGDOM. BRITISH Cmitinental COLONIES. STATES of AMERICA. OTHER COl)NrKlE.S. The l/NITED KINGDOM. BRITISH roiitinpnini COLONIES. STATES of AMERICA. OTHER COUNTRIES. Barrels. ai6 187 20 822 43.»»4 no 50 1,877 338 38 428 "166 1-458 Barrels. 803 4.696 316 ",399 421 621 310 134 ""878 338 329 854 1,011 Barrels. 3.427 702 190 ",131 162 340 i,a9i 236 278 1,689 1,217 489 2,410 610 Barrels. Barrels. 152 235 726 48,838 30 176 5 58 967 394 i,«4o B.irrels. 307 2.654 3'i 268 29,4 > 6 559 618 122 265 263 126 1,468 364 Bnrrels. 3^561 6.3 „ 9 30,834 632 1,124 1,603 84i 309 1,394 2,653 3 54 ».5'7 1,469 Barrels. 1402 119 — *io 939 25 ■'s 48,829 23.615 «4.525 3 19 55.306 36,741 47.845 1 2,372 Firkins. 692 11,249 3.'74 818 H.493 302 1,034 858 1,27a 1,238 i.74i 1,094 a,028 80 Firkins. 12 65 II 33 20 50 49 Firkins. 92 10 176 240 883 7 443 154 6 454 1,923 611 1,116 369 Firkins Firkin''. 1,978 »4-93i 2,398 1,769 25,904 19 326 901 62a 842 1,286 2,297 872 2,546 2l^ Firkins. 76 72 127 18 12 3« Firkins. 23a 74 472 aoo 54 364 305 18 807 2,099 745 980 241 Firkins. 7 . 12 119 "* — ■ 10 45 40,074 240 6,484 22 56,908 337 6,593 171 No. I 7 I No. No. 389 ».499 233 183 100 ""187 181 404 339 354 191 71 No. No. k 3 •••••■•• ■ • • • • • • I 12 No. a • • • No. 458 1,464 416 156 9 166 307 402 430 ais 1S3 124 No. 83 34 417 1 34 12 684 23 ■ — 9 • • • • • 1 • 4,»3» 4 8? 2 4.3io 802 'w-v The Account of Provisions and Lumber impc 1804. ' SPECIES and ISLANDS. The Biiiri.SH STATES OTHEU COUNTIIIES. The UNITED Continental of UNIT! KINGDOM. COLONIES. AMERICA. KINGDt No No. No. No. N.. SHEEP and? Antigua HOGS. J Barbadoes 98 • ••••• . • 301 Dominica 461 37 Grenada 175 7 Jamaica 555 337 Montserrat .... ^ Nevis • ••••• •• 39 __ _ St. Kitts • •.•■••• 16 St. Vincents .... 119 Tortola ....... Trinidad 607 ' De»T'erara 1,601 •..••• St. Lucia ...... 65 .... . • Surinam 100 71 20 Tobago ........ 66 ...... 1 TotaL . . . lOO 4,194 401 Feet. Feet. Feet. Feet. Feet. OAK& PINE) Antigua 17,000 ^536.457 BOARDS,and > Barbadoes .... • . • • • • • 2,917 4 095,977 TIMBER. ) Dominica .... 3.C00 2,092,675 Grenada 6,000 1,793,641 Jamaica 513,743 6,?53,i84 a,430 Montserrat . . 191,000 Nevis 358,000 230 St. Kitts 1,3^3,541 82,960 St. Vincents . . 66,800 2,674,200 Tortola *• •• •«'•• 433,202 Trinidad .... 78.517 3,826,756 Demerara .... 45.550 7,531,300 St. Lucia .... 1,000,547 Surinam 81,200 1,981,500 Tobago 814.7*7 1,430,520 Total.... • • • • ft • • No. 36,623,601 85,620 cufNTni WQ Antiirua No. No. 1,526,700 5,fio 1,400 No. • No. Barbadoes 1,500 Dominica 14)000 2,(531,800 Grenada f 'imuica 1,328,700 124,500 '2,507,430 • Monlserrat .... 284.000 St Kitts 392,000 1 8,000 1,702,550 • • • ft • • S(. Vincents ... ao,oco i,9?r,ooo Tortola 313,000 4,675,400 Trinidad 25,750 .•.»>... Demerara St. Lucia ...... 3,600 3.549,950 2,072,000 Surinam •••• •• •• 288,000 Tobago — ^ 22,000 IU,2S0 2,032,740 Total.... 40,'7a,ooo t88,ooo >32,740 No. • 1,500 X 8,000 No. No. 10,000 106,500 104,000 No. 2,631,000 8,355,650 2,254,500 2,391,200 8,572,310 236,000 824,000 ij432,8oo 1,619,700 255,000 3,266.250 1,721,750 3,401,200 309,000 1,180,350 No. 17,500 No. • • No. 40,000 21,009 208,225 1 2,000 6,000 8,000 No. 3,442,406 6,055,950 3,188,500 2,281,400 17,621,756 597,000 688,000 1,510,17s 3,118,000 3? 7,000 3,028,774 2,768,000 2,901.000 224,000 2,1*8,771 No. ^^^ 142,800 11,000 5,000 aojooo 33,000 29,000 30,000 ___ :::::::: • 3,000 ' 36,670 19,500 491,300 38,410,710 17,500 a95,»*5 49.907,73a 3,000 into the British West Indies— con/titu^cf. 1805. II 1306. STATES of AMERIO/\ OTHER C0UNTKIE8. No. «5» «93 389 "5 661 50 31 98 918 477 70 48 Feet. 4,480^70 5,205.078 ».94S.5Jo 2,090,863 9.So«.734 395*908 578,000 i.5aj38< a,a7s,i5o 367.94J 2,506423 6.539.950 9".273 i,2lii,8oo a.058,549 40,610,075 3,44«.4o6 6,055,950 3,188,500 2,281,400 t7,62i,756 597,000 68)i,ooo 1,510.17s 3,118,000 3? 7.000 3,028,774 2,768,000 2,901,000 124,000 2,128,771 a9J.a»5 49.907»73» \ 3>ooo No. 34 i% 136 309 Feet. 50,000 *.o» > 400 I2,000 a,ooo 68,400 No. 3,000 il I' tinueil. 1806. 1^ OTHER RIO/t. C0UNTKIB8. io. No. I5» — «93 S4 389 ^»r .".J kft 66i 136 50 — ^ ■i^ 31 — 98 — 918 _ 477 — 70 — 48 — '^5 — 3.363 309 Feet. 0.470 5.078 50,000 ^5.550 *.» > 0,862 — ".734 — 15,908 — 8.000 400 13.38 < I1,000 'S.150 — >7.945 — i >64a3 — 59.950 — H.273 a,ooo 18,800 — )8,549 — 10,075 68,400 '3. No. t2,4o6 — 55,950 — J8,5oo — ii,4oo — »i,756 — J 7,000 — $i(,ooo — 10.175 3,000 18,000 — ? 7.000 — . 18,774 — S8,ooo — 01,000 — 14,000 — 28,771 — 07,73» 3,000 SPECIES 1 BRITISH STATES D Coiitlnenul of OTHER M. COLONIES. AMERICA. COUNTKIES. No. No. No. STAVES— 500 95*,430 „, 42,196 i,oia,537 «O,00O 6,500 43»j7co ..^ 14.880 9*0,883 ^^^ 146,760 «».39S.73» _>. «*•••••• 117,600 10,000 14,300 201,000 34.000 661,460 70,500 7,4co ii4<>o,8oo 1,000 „39.Soo — . 9,000 845.571 908,079 198,500 — 5,800 63,000 __ 946,187 — 3*7,336 ai,i64,979 I 135,500 I i 4 ',# " The Account of Provisions and Lumber imported into the Dri SPECIES and ISLANDS. STAVES.— Antigua Barbadoet . . . . Dominica . . . , Grenada Jamaica Montierrat . . . < Nevit St.Kitu St. Vincent!.... Tortola Trinidad Demerara . • . . St. Lucia Surinam Tobago Total.... 1804. The UNITED KINUDOM. No. « . « . * 1 .•..•••• DltlTHH Conilnctiial COLONIK8. No. 17,800 12,840 9.000 110,494 15,800 7,000 s,6oo 30.400 STATES of AMERICA. OTHER COUNTRIES. No. 545.79« 834.994 193,000 539.897 8,174.884 3o,joo 302,800 45«.86» 977,900 97,000 436,150 i,479.86» 187,534 816,011 «,oi»,S75 »5»366,936 No. 45.000 11,000 11,001 68,500 1805. The UNITED KINGDOM. N*. BRITISH Contln«>nul COLONIES. No. »3.950 31/J80 6,450 15,100 81,489 3.900 2,700 }0,000 30,000 700 5.500 a,ooo 1,000 I »35.«69 16,185, imported into the British West Indies— t'on/iViu,I96 6,joo 15,880 a46,76o 14.300 • • • • • 7,4CO 9/)0o I t • • • • • ■ STATES of AMERICA. j,8oo No. 95».430 i,oia,537 43'.7CO 910,883 ".395.73* 117,600 aoi,ooo 661,460 t,4t>o,8oo 39,500 845.S7i 908,079 198,500 63,000 946,187 OTIIIiR cui;nthies. 3*7.336 »i>i64,979 No. to,ooo 10,000 34.000 70^joo 1,000 I35^S00 :''f?"v =C3?= 'T •' Mt' !T//I * ii-»; ,?il. .■»•*- 379 '.':■>« No. VIII. An Account of the real Value of Exports from England to all Parts of America and the H est Indies (exclusive oj the United States), in . the Fears, ended the Oth of Gctolt^r, iSOo, 1807, and 1808 ; distinguish uig brtilsh Ma- 'nufactures from foreign Merchandize. ' British Manufaf'tiix". Foreign Merchandize. Total. £' £■ £' Years, ended 10th October, 1 806. 7,2; 5,911 696,495 7.972,406 ia07. 8,635,860 650,761 9,286,621 1808.12,041,320 s 17,775 •2,859,095 1H '! 1 f I li' i I I 1 '1: i if I's h\ 380 No. IX. All Account of the real Value (according to the average Prices' of the last three iears) of all Imports and Ejporis between Great Brituin and the United States^ of America, for three Years, ending 5th of January, 1808, distin- guishing each Year, and the principal Arti" cle» of such Imports and E.vporis ; and also foreign Merchandize from British Produce and Manufactures, Real Value of Imports from the United States of America. \ I81M. 180(). I8O7. £' /.. £• Annotto , - - f),2()0 71,353 64,402 Ashes, Pearl and Pot 102,952 138,498 144,32() Coc'iincal - - - 720 77,817 9,104 Coftoe 18,25^ 25,904 {)(),63G Corn, Grain and Meal 151,322 422,429 922,308 Hides 15,98,5 12,40() 18,590 Indigo . _ . I2,75(i 47/297 69,909 Pilcii and Tar 48,511 34,378 40,26d Seeds; viz. Flax and Linseed 1,()52 1 1 ,,=^f)0 7,050 Skins and Furs C8,()()l ()5,0()''J 2(), 1 1 ♦> Su-nr I3,8W) 51,173 13,030 'I'ot'UCCO - - - 313,487 4I7,9K) 447,883 'I'lirprntine - - - 11S,30H l(tO,8?C 77,038 ^^^...d;vi/,.Dt■alR8cFirTimber 3(),:()4 0'4,7.;f^ 131,741 Mahogany 30,378 29,•^'2 81,48'J Masts 5, ,0 19 10, 121 5,355 Sljves 10(),()81 130,:.^).'; 1-10.7,>4 ^\'':()1 ; vi/. C otton 2,<)27,818 2,.'^>()(j,729 4,1 l.'),i.it> Other articles 97,.4: 73,H2.-- 1^3,-04 Total Imports. 4,070,80.5 •», 300,74.1 0,53 1,4 1(1 * Iq< liulii)'' Louisian% 381 I) 'i Real Value of Kxports to the of America. United States Brass and Copper Manufactures Cotton Goods Glass and Earthenware Haberdashery Hats - Iron and Steel licad - - " Linens - - " Salt Silk Manufactures Tin and Pewter Woollens - - - Other articles British Produce and\ Manufactures, j Foreign Merchandize. Total Exports. \mi). go,342 3,2()7,84.J \{)5,biiC, 245,43;? 1)8,904 739,()4y 72,003 319,950 (J0,830 40"5,441' .'iO.JSO 4,()2 1,827 815.7.^2 11, 01 9,468 427,471 11,446,939 I 8 Of). 82,142 4,645, 7;h> 175,520 313,764 99,260 6*84,678 44,619 289,044 84,68fl 425,16 79.l8y 4,866,178 599,^9"' i8'J7. €■ 12,389,488 476,063 1^,865,651 168,004 4,609,21 I 162,542 310,862 64,620 773,188 31,166 306,821 81,574 417,418 75,875 4,239,118 606,114 11,846,513 25 1 ,429 i2,097,94i} 1^1 ii i I '::! i 382 No. X. Exports from Quebec, — 1 808. i Wheat Ciibiings Pease Oats Barley - liuliuii corn Itayseod Flour Biscuit - Po.lt - Diito Betf Oak timber Pim ditto Maple walnut - Staves aiiU heading Ditto oiuls Boards and planks Oak planks Handspikes - Oare Masts - Bowsprits Yards - Spars Hoops Lallnvood Scantling Punch. and hhd, pac Madeira do. Cod iish Salmon Ditto - UtiTinift 1. d. • 186708 hnsbels 6 8 150 ditto 3 5'21t3) ditto 5 6 2fa'«9 ditto 2 5«9Iditto 3 4 341.7 il!aire - Diito Midt Pot and pearl ashos - New shipj Hetr Ditto s. Brouifht forward 8f3 tierces 30 519 bbis '20 50 ditto 106 .'3^3 kegs 40 2660 U)s 8 hi)ls 10 9260 !;al Ions 2 131V "ll)s 2 143 30 hoards 5 2 cufcs 60 9 kei'9 5 17 i)unch ) 9 casks ^ 9263 husV.eU 5 107652cwt.0(irs. 71h.1 30838 barrels J ^^ 37,50 tons /.. iO 29 iilids f-0 GOO ditto 7 d. 6 0" o| o' 6 1 (J 4 .0 6 o 6 Rc^avcr iMai'tin Otters Alii:k i'lslitrs Fl'RS. 12G927 IS 9 \>5:M) 3 4 723') 2;l 9/08 2 ■ioob 4 £■ s. 331,974 4 124 10 319 400 786 5,200 1,833 15 1 2,43(5 10 67 10 460 210 t) 53 10 130 900 o 139 15 6 750 508 M) 5 27 39G 8:; 80 78 13 4 926 131 18 3 U J 10 6 17 15 100 •?40 15 29G,043 3 ST.iJOO ik; 1L.3 5 73..',in0 iL^.'^'Ol 1 i,;}b^ 6 7,230 910 16 773 4 129,496 7 d. o o 5 6 5 10 3 8 O 11 I,.; Ill; t '■'' II i.^.j 384 Foxos » . - Bears and cubs D.ers - - - Cased and open cat - Rnroons Mn-kcats W-lf Elk Woolvcreens - S als - - - Butialo . . . Tiroueiit forward ions 5 1 298 U 103875 3 4 37t8 3 4 123307 2 6513 1 6 18 7 fi 6&y 15 3;) . . 5 10 4 1 20 Furs GciiernI Add expjn^e of the military depavtmnnt, which has ? been niuie this year tlian ubual. ^ t- «. d. '\29A9G 7 It '?.:r M) l.rj- iO 17,31. 10 9r,3 12,330 14 488 9 6 6 15 496 10 9 15 2 1 1 I6'-M)79 5 7:32, 9-;o 5 7 10 893,949 3 aoo.ooo l,0y5 949 7 3 334 vessels cleared at the Custom-house. 70275 tons. 3330 men. To illustrate more fully the above tonnage in 1808, as in- creased by the natural amelioration of the country, and by the embargo in America, let us compare it with the tonnage of the shipping of the years 1 80G — 33,91)6. 1807— 4-2,293. The increase is conspicuous. «. ply the islands with their whole consumption of fish, and at reasonable prices, can be easily proved, and that they arc, therefore, entitled to do so, exclu' sively, Mr. Jordan himself admits. The right of the West India colonists to obtain from the Ame- rican Slates all articles of the first necessity, which they cannot ade- quately obtain from the dominions of Great Britain, is not disputed by u? ; but we assert that the article of fish can be adequately ob- rht of larj but |om the by the Iccount, and iu the pro- le price islands [es, can I, exclti' Amc- lot ade- hsputed lely ob- tained from the British colonies. That the allowing supplies to be imported in American bottoms has been destructive to the British carrying trade, has been lately demonstrated by a very able writer on the subject ; and that the indulgences granted to the Americans have injured the fisheries, and greatly reduced the tonnage and seamen employed in these colonies, we can assert from our own sad experi- ence. An inspection into the imports and exports of the island of Jamaica for one year, as laid before their House of Assembly, and published in the Jamaica almanack for the last year, will shew how large a portion of the West India carrying trade is engrossed by the Americans. • If, my Lord, we have stated in our memorial that it is, now, more advantageous for the merchants of this colony to dispose of their fish in the United States, than to send it to the West India islands, — we have made it a subject of complaint j and at the same time have set forth the reasons why the Americans rival us in that trade. Were our commerce with the islands placed on a fair foundation, the same British ships would convey our fish thither, which now carry it to the American markets. Hut burdened as that trade is with insurance against the enemy, and confined as it is, and ought to be, to a fair dealing in legitimate merchandize, we contend in those ports with the Americans at every disadvantage. Had Mr. Jordan fairly observed on our petition and memo?iaI, h^^ would not have asserted that the positive affirmation in the for- mer, " that these provinces can supply the West Indies with fish," was shaken by a subsequent observation, " that, under certain cir- ** cumstances, the trade and fisheries of these colonies would be *' ruined, which, with encouragement, might be almost, if not " entirely, confined to British subjects." The observation refer3 expressly to the trade in all the articles enumerated in the memorial ; the affirmation is confined to the single article of fish. One read- ing of the paragraph referred to will entirely refuse Mr. Jordan's remark. Having already, my Lord, observed tliat the increase of the price of fish, occasioned by war, is no just ground for the introduction of that article, from foreign ports, and in foreign vessels, we shall not follow Mr. Jordan in the curious inference he undertakes to draw from our admission, that, in war time, the Americans can under- sell us ia fish. So little are we disposed to require an exiravagant V,1 •rl' S9^ price for our fish, that we most readily would jicct'dc to "Mr. Jordan's proposal, of fixing the maximum price of cod fish at eight dollars, in time of war; and, indeed, could we obtain even three-fourths of that price, generally, during the war, the fisheries would soon flou- rish again, and the islands be at all times amply supplied with fish. On the two facts with which Mr. Jordan closes his observations, we shall only remark that the former is conceded by us as tc the flour and grain imported into Nova Scotia from the United States ; and it is perfectly consistent with our memorial, in which we con- fess that this province is deficient in the articles of wheat and corn. The other fact we must dispute ; and although we are not provided with documents to ascertain the tonnage employed between the Bri- tish North American provinces and the West India islands, for the particular year 1791, yet we are furnished with returns of the ton- nage employed in the trade to and from the West India islands for the year 179*r1 in pursuance of the fifth Article of th« Treaty of Amity, Commerce, and Navigation, between his Bri- tannic Majesty and the United States of America, finally to de- cide the Question, " What River was truly intended under the Name of the River St. Croix, mentioned in the Treaty of Peace, between his Majesty and the United States, and forming a Part ol the Boundary therein described." DECLARATION. WE, the said commissioners, having been sworn impartially to examine and decide the said question according to such evidence as should respectively be laid before us, on the part of the British go- vernment and of the United States, and having heard the evidence which hath been laid before us by the agent of his Majesty, and the agent of the United States respectively appointed, and authorized to manage the business on behalf of the respective governments, have decided, and hereby do decide the river hereinafter particularly de> scribed and mentioned, to be the river truly intended under the name of the river St. Croix, in the said treaty of peace, and forming a part of the boundary therein described ; that is to say, the mouth of the said river is in Passamnquoddy Bay, at a point of land called Joe's Point, about one mile northward from the northern part of St. An- drew's Island, and in the latitude of forty-five degrees five minutes and five seconds north, and in the longitude of sixty.seven degrees /A { 406 twelve minutes and thirty seconds west from the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, in Great Britain, and three degrees Hfty-four minutes and fifteen seconds east from Harvard College, in the University of Cambridge, in the State of Massachusetts ; and the course of the said river, up from its said mouth, is northerly, to a point of land called the Devil's Head, then turning, the said point is westerly, to where it divides into two streams, the one coming frofti the west- ward, and the other coming from the northward, having the name of Chiputnatecook, or Chibnitcook, as the same may be variously spelt, then up the said stream so coming from the northward to its source, which is at a stake near a yellow birch tree hooped with iron, and marked S. T. and I. H. 1797> by Samuel Titcomb and John Harris, the surveyors employed to survey the abovementioned stream coming from the northward ; and the said river is designated on the map hereunto annexed, and hereby referred to as further descriptive of it by the letters A.B . C. D. E. F. G. H. I. K. and L. ; the letter A. being at its said month, and the letter L. being at its said source : and the course and distance of the said source from the inland, at the confluence of the abovementioned two streams, is as laid down on the said map, north five degrees and about fifteen minutes, west by the magnet about fort3'-eight miles and one quarter. In testimony whereof we have hereunto set our hands and seals, at Providence, in the State of Rhode Island, the twenty-fifth day of October, in the year one thousand seven hundred and ninety-eight. Thomas Barclay, (L. S.) David Howell, (L. S.) Egbert Benson, (L. S.) (Witness) Edward Winshw, Secretary to the Commissioners. THE END, T. IJAVISON, Whilefiriwrf, LoHiion. \ \ ! Royal Observatory ss fifty-four minutes n the University of I the course of the to a point of land )oint is westerly, to ling frofc the west- I, having the name ! may be variously le northward to its hooped with iron, fitcomb and John :mentioned stream designated on the further descriptive and L. ; the letter at its said source : the i<»land, at the laid down on the utes, west by the r hands and seals, venty.fifth day of d ninety-eight, Barclay, (L. S.) owell, (L. S.) 'enson, (L. S.) i^ommissioDers. : «