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6
32X
SABLE ISLAND
, , • 4:SuV^t^
« >-
/
AND ITS
A
FTENDANT
fH
ENOMENA,
•V
BY
f
S. D. MACDONALD, F. G. S.
Read before the Institute of Natural Science, Halifax, N, S.,
March, 1883.
f
HALIFAX, N. S.
PRINTED BY WILLIAM MACNAB, 12 PRINCE STREET,
1883.
iMi
SABLE ISLAND.
In brin<^;cig this Island and its surroundings to your notice
this evening, I feel I am opening up a rich field for the future
investigation of this Institute.
From its geographical position — midway between this f^oast
and the gulf stream — it possesses characteristics peculiar to
itself, and a phenomena so varied that there is work here for
us all.
But not only does this Island invite our attention in the
interests of science, but demands our attention in the interests
of humanity.
Situated directly in the pathway of commerce, — enshrouded
for weeks together by impenetrable fog — encircled by eddies and
currents of the most erratic character — its dangerous and ever-
shifting sand-bars, together with its terrible record of disasters,
dating back from the earliest history of this country — it has
earned for itself among mariners the well-merited appellation,
that of " the grave-yard of Noi'th America."
Ant' were we to-nioi"row to visit this island and witness its
wreck-strewn shoi-es — the ghastly grin of skeletons protruding
from the embankment or lying awash on the beach — and listen
to the sickening tales of the surf-men, we would feel guilty,
indeed, if we, as members of one of the oldest scientific societies in
this Dominion, did not put forth our greatest effort to learn some-
thing of the causes whose efiects are so fraught with destruction,
and irive to the world the benefit of our researches.
w
While compiling the wreck-chart of Sable Island which we
have before us, I have had to examine the early records of thf
Province, from which I have gleaned many facts in connection
with the history of this Isl^id. Having had the opportunity
of visiting it on two occasions, and learning something of it
as it is to-day, I thought it well to place the results before you,
to form, as it were, a basis for further investigations.
The first notice of this Island in history, is from the
voyage of John Cabot, who, in company with his son, Sebastian,
sailed from Bristol in 1547, in a vessel called the "Matthew."
After making the land at Labrador, he sailed south and west-
ward, coasting Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, as far as Cape
Sable. Finding here the coast trending suddenly to the north,
and being short oi provisi/^ns, with an unknown sea before him,
he wisely turned his prow homeward. On the third day he
passed two islands to starboard, which, from their position,
must have been some of the higher hummocks of Sable Island.
Viewed at a distance, these might easily be taken for separate
islands.
Three years later an expedition, ordered by Emanuel, King
of Portugal, followed in the wake of Cabot ; but meeting with
reverses, they returned, disheartened, to Lisbon.
Private enterprizes, however, stimulated by the glowing
accounts given by Cabot of seas blocked with fish, were continued
from year to year, and hundreds of Portuguese fishermen resorted
to the banks.
To these people the credit is given of having placed cattle
and swine on the Island for the benefit of those who might be
cast upon its shores. That they were well acquainted with the
place, there can be little doubt.
On a chart made by Pedro Reinel, as early as 1505, of
Newfoundland and this coast, as far as Maine, this island is laid
down as "Sanda Cms."
In the museum of Paris is another chart, made by Qaftaldi
(of New France), in 1 550, showing the fishing banks extending
from off Lahave to Newfoundland, on which this island appears
&s "Isolla del Arena."
In 1518, Baron de Lery made the first attempt to colonize
this New France, but meeting with a succession of gales, which
drove him back several times, he arrived on this coast too late
to place his people under shelter before winter would overtake
them, so he left part of his cattle at Canso, and sailed for Sable
Island, where he placed the remainder, an<i returned to France.
In after years these cattle had .so multiplied that it became a
matter of speculation for parties to lanrl and hunt them for their
hides and tallow.
The next mention made of this i.sland is in the record of the
disa.strous voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who .sailed from Eng-
land with a fleet of five armed vessels. Arriving at St. John's, Nfld.
— he found a lare-e fleet of fishermen, of diflferent nations —
and took formal pos.session of the place in the name of Queen
Elizabeth. The Portuguese treated him well, and after supplying
him with wines, marmalade, sweet oil, &c., told him of their
having placed swine and cattle on Sable Island. Thither Sir
Humrhrey sailed.
jeveral days after, during a thick fog, he lo.st his second in
conimand on Sable Island. As this is the first wreck of which
there is any history, written in quaint old English, I will
read it as recorded :
"Sabla lieth, to the seaward of Cape Breton about 45°,
whither we were determined to go, upon intelligence we had of
a Portingall, during our abode in St. John's, who was also him-
self present when the Poi tingi.!!« about 30 years past, did put
into the same Island both neat and swine to breed, which were
.since exceedingly multiplied.
" The distance between Cape Race and Cape Breton is 100
leagues, in which navigation we spent 8 days. Having the wind
many times indiflerent good, but could never obtain sight of any
land, all that time, .seeing we weie liindered by the current. At
last we fell into such flats and dange"s, that hardly any of us
escaped. Where nevertheless we lost our Admiral, with all the
men and provisions.
6
"Contrary to tho mind of the expert Master Cox, on Wed-
nesday, 27th Auj^ust, we Ijore up towar<l the land. These in the
doonie<l ship continually soundin*^ trumpet and drums. Whilst
stranj^e voices from the deep scared the helmsman from his post
on boar<1 the Frigate.
" Thursday, the 28th, the wind arose ami blew vehemently
from the .south and east, — brinjrinir withal rain and thick mist,
that we could not see u c.xble len<^th Ix^fore us. And betimes we
were run and foulded an onjjfst flats and sands, amongt which
we found flats and deeps e\ 'jry 3 or 4 .ship's len«]fths. friiDcf-
(liutrli/ tokens were j^iven tn the admiral to cast about to
seaward, w/t/f -A beinj( the g'/Ta^'/' ship, and of burden 120 tons,
was performost upon the l)each. Keeping so ill a watch they
knew not the danger before they felt the .same too into to
I'ecover, for presently the Admiral struck aground, and had .soon
1)01- stern and hinder parts beaten in pieces. The iHnnaining two
ships escapad by casting about E.S.E., bearing to the south for
their lives, even in the wind's eye. Sounding on while 7 fathom,
thou o, then again deep(>r. The sea going tnightily and hitjh."
In the wreck of the " Delight," or " Admiral," as .she was
eallcd, upwards of i)5 perished, 12 only cHcuprd, and afterwards
reached the Nova Scotia coast an<l were carried by some French
ve.s.sel to England.
In 1598, the Man^uis " De la Roche" obtained a charter
from Henry III. to colonize and (Ohristianize New France, and
sailed in May of that year. Arriving oft' this coast, and fearing
that his people, — consi.sting of 40 convicts from the French
prisons — might escape, he landed them on Sable Island until he
could make arrangements to .settle on the main land. On returning
he encountered a furious gale which, in 15 days, djove him on
the French coast. He ha<l scarcely landed, when he was thrown
into pri.son by an enemy, and was prevented from counnunicating
the result of his voyage to the ki»ig. Five years after, the king,
receiving i nfeUI(fence,ori\evii<\ the pilot who had led them thither
t) proceed to Sable Island and learn their fate, which was found
to be deploiuble. Out of the forty landed five years pi-evious,
only twelve remained alive.
Finding tliemselves alone, and deserted, as they thought, by
the very one whom they looked to for libert}' an«l comfort, they
- W ii ii.^
became desperate. With no law to fftttruin, nor punishment to
fear, each man's haml was turnol a;,'ainst his fellow, and several
had come to a violent end. Tlu- n>iiiiiind<'r, from ill-prepared
food and exposure, became reduced in spirits, and had hitf'hf led
more (piiet lives. After beini,' landi-d on thr Island they managed
to erect huts from the remains of a Spanish vessel wrecked in
the breakers, an«l maintained existence by eatinj; the raw fle.sh
of the cattle Baron de Lery, or the Portu«(uese, had placed on
the Island many years before, and whicli had bocouu! very numer-
ou.s. In a short time their clothes were worn out, and they
dressed themselves in the skins of seals.
On their arrival in Franc*! they were presented to the kinjj;.
Their savage (expression, unkempt hair and bt^ards, which reache<l
to their waists, together \'ith their pitiful tale of want and
exposure, .so moved the king that he gave them tifty crowns
apiece and permission to return to their homes. Strange to say.
they afterwards sought passage to the island, where they accu-
mulated a large quantity of fur.
In 1638, John Ro.se. of Boston, lost his vessel — the " Mary
& Jane" — at this place. Hf was here three months constructing
a yawl from the remains of his vessel, by which he reached the
main land. His reports of having seen "more than 800 head of
wild cattle, an«l a great many foxes, many of which were black"
.so interested the Acadians that 17 of them embaikeil in a ves.sel,
taking Rose as pilot. After this Rose returned to New Eng-
land, where the tidings of this wonderful Island soim spread.
A company was soon formed at Boston to hunt on the Island.
On their arrival they found that the 17 Frenchmen who had
wintered on the Isla' i, had built houses and a fort, and .so
slaughtered the cattle that only l.')() remained.
About 100 years ^tt^p?', a French clergyman named LeMercier,
claiming to be an Englishman by naturalization, sent thither a
number of cattle, previous to removing with his family. He ha»l
petitioned Governor Armstrong, at Annapolis, for a grant of the
Island, but declining to pay a Quit rent to the government, the
grant was withheld. A pr :clamation was i.ssueil forbid<ling per-
sons from killing those animals, and they continued there for many
I
8
years. At what period they were destroyed, and succeeded by
the wild horses now upon it, is not known.
From this date up to the beginning of the present century,
we have little information respecting this Island, except that it
became a favourite resort of fishermen, for the purpose of hunting
ti.e walrus and seal.
With the increase of commerce, wrecks were more frequent,
and it became the haunt of pirates and wrockers of the worst
description, who are said to have lighted fires en the shore
luring vessels to their destruction. Valuable jewels and rare
articles having been exhibited as coming from there from time to
time, strange stories of piracy and murder became frequent.
Tfd8, together with the report of several vessels being lost
with all hands, in quick succession — among them being the
" Princess Amelia," a transport having on board the household
effects of the Duke of Kent and upwards of 200 officers and
recruits, all of whom perished, although it was thought that
many of them reached shore and were afterwards murdered by
the pirates, excited the suspicions of the authorities.
The gun brig " Harriet" was dispatched, under Lieut.
ToRRENS, to investigate matters, when she, too, was lost. The
government at once took action, and, by the advice of Sir John
WENTWORTH,an amount was appropriated for settling families on
the Island to assist shipwrecked persons and for saving property.
A proclamation was issued, stating that persons found resid-
ing upon the Island without a license from the government
would be removed and imprisoned for a period of not less than
six years. This had the desired eflTect, driving off the wretches
who infested it, and the present establishment was formed under
the superintendence of one James Morris in 1802.
Such is the early history which, though dim and frag-
mentary, yet .serves to show that the Island was well known
and frequented hundreds of years before the founding of Halifax,
and that by a race of people w^ho have left no descendants
along ourco-.t.
We will now consider the general features of this
Island. It is simply an enormous accumulation of loose grey
I succeeded by
resont century,
except that it
)OHe of hunting
more frequent,
of the worst
en the shore
wels and rare
e from time to
I frequent,
sscis being lost
lem being the
the household
lO otficers and
I thought that
i murdered by
J8.
under Lieut.
r&H lost. The
Be of Sir John
ing families on
iving property.
IS found resid-
e government
not less than
f the wretches
formed under
lim and frag-
la well known
ing of Halifax,
descendants
iures of this
of loose grey
9
sand, forming two parallel ridges united at either extremity.
It is crescent-sliaped, with its inner side towards the coast.
The valloy formed by tliuso parallel ridges extends the
lengt)) of the Island, S miles of which is occupied by a lake. A
narrow ridge separates this lake from the ocean on the south,
over which the sea breaks in many places during heavy weather.
According to the last adtuiralty survey, this Island is situ-
ated 85 miles from White Head, the nearest point on the Nova
Scotia coast. The west und is in lat. 4.S, 50, N., and GO, 08, W
long., — 22 miles in length and I mile in breadth.
From a northern approach it presents the appearance of a
succe-ssion of low, nuked sand huuunocks, some partially covered
with vegetation. Beginning at the west end, those hills or
hummocks have an elevation of about 20 feet, gradually rising
eastward, attaining the height of about 80 feet in the vicinity of
the east end light, beyond which they slope away until they
meet the N. E. bar, which in tine weather drie-j for a distance of
4 miles from the grassy Han<l iiills. About two miles from the
beginning of this bar an island is forming over an old wreck,
and is coveied with grass.
This dry bar is succeeded by miles of heavy breakers, to
a depth of fathoms, 4 miles fiii-ther with a heavy cross .sea,
witii froui 10 to l.S fathoms, and then ends abiuptly, the depth
increasing in a distance of .'} miles to 170 fathoms.
The N. W. bar dries about 1| miles from the grass hills,
with patches or shoals nearly di'H one mile further out. Then
D miles of heavy bieakers in Jine iveathev, succeeded by .seven
miles more in heary weather, when the depth increases from five
to ten fathoms, and where there is a great ripple and a heavy
cross sea. The whole extent of this bar is 17 miles, beyond
which the water giadually deepen.s.
Thus we have the Island, with its bars in bad weather, a
continuous line of over 50 miles of foaming breakers, producing
the most terrific effect ; the Island seeming to shake to its
foundation as the whole body of the Atlantic breaks upon it.
In addition to this bar, at either extremity there are three
submerged bars, or ridges, parallel with the shore on both sides,
10
with only a few feet of water, which fo? m heavy breakers when
there is any sea running, making it exceedingly hazarrlous foi-
landing in boats.
On the south side the water deepens very (jrtuliudly, thus
extending its dan<;ers far into the sea in tJuff direction. Vessels
seldom anchor on the south side, because of the prevalent swell
from the south, and from the great distance from a landing,
which is only practicable after a long continuance of northerly
winds. While on the north side boats can only land during
liout/ierly wind and after a continuance of fine weather. But
there are surf-boats belonging to the Island which can generally
communicate when ordinarij boats would swamp.
On the north side vessels anchor from one to two miles off
shore. The bottofii being tine sand, holds ivell, but the sea is so
heavy, except in off-shore winds, that on thy first indication of
wind from the sea, a vessel must weigh anchor immediately and
make an ofting.
Wrecks on the N. W. or N. E. bar are of course far more
dangerous to life than those that take place on the Island. In
bad weather the rescue of a crew on the submerged portion of
those bars would be impossible.
We have heie a ch<(rt showing the wrecks that have taken
place since the formation of the establishment by the Govon-
ment, in 1802, for life-saving purposes, which I hav^e compiled
from official reports, and submitted to the three superintendents
that have had charge of the Island. This chart shows the nauu^
and position of known, wrecks. The unknown, on the bars, are,
perhaps, far more iiuineroas. After gales, and a iong eontinu
ance of foggy weathei-, there aie often sad evidences of disastei-
in the wreckage, and fre((uently bodies <lrifted on shoie, of vvhich
nothing more is ever known. These bars, on the north side,
are extremely steep, especially so the N. E. bar, having as
much as 80 fathoms water close to it; hence a vessel caudit
here in a S. W. to 8. E. gale, would probably strike, forge over
and founder in deep water, leaving nothing whatever above to
tell the tale.
In the immediate neiLdibourhood of the ocean little else but
11
breakeis when
hazardous for
vddiudly, thus
;tion. Vessels
)ievpJont swell
oiii a lauflino:,
e of northerly
\y land during
veather. But
1 can generally
) two miles off
it the sea is so
indication of
mediately and
urse far more
le Island. In
ged portion of
at have taken
the Gove)n-
h-ave compiled
perintendents
ows the name
the bais, are,
long eontinu
;es of disastei"
lore, of which
le north side,
ar, having as
vessel cansfht
:e, forge over
sver above to
ittle else but
sand is seen, thrown up into every variety of drift, or scooped
out by the wind into bowl-like hollows, relieved only hy the
stark timbers of many an unfortunate ship, washed by the waves
or thrown high upon the shore, and the unceasing headlong
plunge of the breakers, as each in turn rears its green head and
breaks in a crest of foam as it rush(;s up the sloping beach.
As we mount the hummocks and descend into the lake valley,
the scene changes to that of a Western prairie. Desolate wastes
of sand give place to green knolls and waving meadows of tall,
luxuriant grass, interspersed with wild pea. In the vicinity of
the lake can be gathered in their season 'i"ifd rosv.s, lilies, asferx,
.Hirawbevriex, hluehevries, crd.nherries — the latter aftbrdirig quite
a revenue to the Island.
Herds of wild ponies dot the valley and hill side. Here
and there are fresh water ponds, girt with dense rank grass,
where wild duck and water-fowl breed in thousands. Here,
again is a long barren, known as the "desert," whose sands
are as shifting as those of the Sahara, and ecjually as desMtute
of vegetation.
Tints alferudfc barrenness and vegetation, fertile valleys
and sand hummocks, the entire length of the Island.
The Government establishment on this Island consists of a
.supeiinten<lent and 18 men, located at different parts of the
Island. Besides the main station, there are five o^/i-stations,
where soaie of the staff reside. There aie also two hou.ses of
Vffiuje, in which are fire places filled witli wood ; match -ho.ces,
a backet, and a ba<f of biscaif, hanging against the wall, out of
reach of i"ats, which sometimes infest the Island. The door is
simply latched. Written directions are posted up, showing the
way to the stations, and how fresh water can be had by digging
1(S inches in the sand. Many a crew, thrown on this desolate
sand-hank in storm and darkness, finding their way to those
houses, have had reason to bless the government for its thought-
fulness in providing for their emergency, without which many a
poor fellow Vv'ould have ha<l to succuudi.
At these out stations signal staffs are erected for the purpose
of counnunicating with vessels or the )iu(in station, at which the
12
crow's nest on the cross-trees of the flag-staff has an elevation of
120 feet, and commands a view, in clear weather, of the entire
Islatid.
During fog the island is patrolled once in 24 hours by rounds-
men, or men from the outposts, on horseback.
Through the kindness of Miss Dix, who spent a short time
on this Island, four Francis metallic life boats were placed at
the different life-saving stations. There are also surf-boats,
rockets and mortars, for throwing lines to wi*ecks, a life-car and
hretches buoy for the landing of crews.
At thiB different stations there is a supply of tame horses
always on hand to convey the boats to the vicini,ty of wiecks.
The life of the surf-men, though somewhat monotonous, is
not an idle one. Each day has its duties. In fine weather their
time is occupied in keeping the stations in repair, hauling fire-
wood, attending to the domestic cattle, and farming in its season,
besides landing supplies, and shipping wrecked materials on the
visit of the Government steamer, and at stated times they
have rocket and mortal' drill, &c. In foggy weather, or after a
storm, the watching of the beach for wrecks claims their whole
attention.
Mounted on his pony the patrol wends his way, frequently in
the teeth of the blast that almost sweeps him from his saddle, while
often snow, hail and sleet — and oftener still, sharp sand drift,
that cuts the face until smarting with pain — forces him to take
shelter between the sand hills, and follow along the central
valley, ever and anon n.ounting the hummocks to look seaward,
and betimes plunging down into the land-wash to examine some
object floating in the breakers — a spar, an empty bottle^ or
perhaps a hen-coop. Such tokens are often all he finds. And so
he trudges on for miles. At length he discovers the next patrol
approaching : they draw rein, exchange notes, turn and retrace
their steps to report at head quarters. Thus patrols make the
circuit of the Island.
The horses found wild here have been considered by Dr.
Gilpin and others to resemble the wild horse of Mexico. It is
generally thought that they were landed from some Spanish
Lm
^■"^""■u.^-
13
i an elevation of
sr, of the entire
lours by rounds-
ent a short time
were placed at
also surf-hoatn,
s, a life-car and
r of tame horses
i,ty of wrecks,
monotonous, is
le weather their
air, hauling: fire-
ng in its season,
naterials on the
)ed times they
ither, or after a
ims their whole
y, frequently in
lis saddle, while
arp sand drift,
ces him to take
wg the central
o look seaward,
3 examine some
ipty bottle, or
finds. And so
t-he next patrol
irn and retrace
trols make the
isidered by Dr.
Mexico. It is
some Spanish
wreck. They are small, but strong and active, and .show a
power of endurance almost fmrprising ; withstanding the incle-
mency of winter without other .shelter than that afforded by
the hillocks of sand.
The English rabbit has at different periods been very numer-
ous, and threatened at one time to over-run 'jhe Island. But, to
their misfortune, the Norway rat landed from an old ves.sel, and
in a short time became so numerous that they nearly annihilated
Itho rabbits, and then turned their attention to the stores of the
[Island, so that during one winter the staff were without bread
for some months. In the spring the Government sent a detach-
I ment of cats to look after the rats. The cats killed the rats and
then fini.shed the remaining rabbits. In a short time the cats
became so ivild and numerous as to be a source of danger, when
dogs were sent to hunt the cats, and with the assistance of shot
guns in the hands of the staff, the cats were finally extirpated.
Again the Island was stocked with rabbits, when a snowy
\otd found his way thither, and l>eing so delighted at his find,
\ disappeared, and in a few days returned with his friends, who
^ remained long after the rabbits were extinct, and still shows his
[kind remembrances by making periodical visits.
Until 1814, herds of wild Iwgs roamed the Island, which
[became exceedingly fierce, often attacking the cattle. But
^during a very severe winter all perished. Since that time this
[species of .stock has not been allowed to range the Island, since,
lowing to their proclivity to hunt bodies in the .sand, and devour
[those found in the land-wash, they became objects of horror
md disgust.
The walrus, or sea lion, once repaired to this Island in
?large numbers. Their tusks are still being wa.shed out of the
■sand, although they disappeared many years ago.
Early in January the Greenland seals make their appearance
on the bars, for the purpose of wkelping, and are sometimes
hunted by the start". The male is about 8 feet long, weighs
often 800 lbs., and swims at the rate of .seven miles an hour.
They are very tenacious of life, often surviving the most severe
wounds. 'Their habits are very interesting. When on shore
they live in families, each male attemled by several females.
z
14
The young at twenty days arc nearly white, and those who
have partaken of their flesli, pronounce it eijual to that of
sucking pig. When the males are ohl they are deseited hy the-
females, and living apart from the lest, become exceedingly
fierce. In their encounters they inflict on each other wounds
like sabre thrusts, and after their engagements throw themselves
into the sea to wash away the blood. The hunting of this species
of seal is not without its dangers. They often turn upon their
pursuers, and will sometimes ward ofi' a blow, seize the club in
their tusks and escape.
The common If (I t'boitr scdJ isa. constant «lweller on the Island.
In May their new-born whelps ma} be found sleeping on the
sand in velvet coats, or riding the surges on their mothers' backs.
LIGHTS.
In 187'^ the Government erected two powerful lights — one
on each end of the Island — at a cost of $80,000, the propriety of
which has been very much (i[uestioned.
Nearly every govei-nment that has come into power has
had the subject of light houses on Sable Island Ixjfore them, and
as often has it been opposed by sea-faring men, who maintained
that it would render navigation more dano-erous than before.
Their argument being that were no inducements offered to
approach the Island, vessels would keep at a sufficiently safe
<listance from it ; whereas, in the hope of making the light, they
would be drawn m^ar the bars, thereby inci'easing the risk and
dangei".
Some maintained, on the other hand, that if two pow-
erful white lights were exhibited — one fixed the other revolv-
ing — they would be visible twenty miles, which would be
(juite far enough to warn ^'essels of their danger, and enable
them CO define their position. Mr. Howe, in his report of 1848,
stated that although Capt. Darby and Mr. Cunard entertained
the belief that a light would induce vessels to run foi* the Island,
and lui'e them amid shoals and sand-bars, it was, in his opinion,
strongly advisable that a light should be erected near the central
15
:, and thoAii who
[ual to that of
deserted by the-
»me exceedingly
h other wounds
irow themselves
g of this species
turn upon their
ieize the club in
er on the Island.
sleeping on the
mothers' backs.
rful lights — one
he propriety of
into power has
Kifore them, and
who maintained
)us than before,
ents offered to
ufficientlv safe
>• the light, they
ij the risk anil
if two pow-
le other revolc-
hich would be
jer, and enable
report of 1848,
^RD entertained
1 foi- the Island,
in his opinion,
icar the central
JKtation, and that vessels not bound for the Islan<l, nor (b-iven
there by currents or .stress of weather, would no more run for it
than they do now, — that they would, in fact, keep clear of it, it
Ihavinf;: no harbour of refuge ; an<l tliat vessels outward bound
[would not require a new point of departure, while those homeward
|b( und had all the coast before them ; and if made to revolve
E. ejnd W., it would show in which dii'ection the bars lie, and to
government vessels it would lie of great service. But, as before;,
lo further action beyond debating the matter took place — at
that time.
Foremost amonu' the <lan<>ers surroundinj; this Island is that
irising fj-om the irregularity of the marine currents that sweep
its shores. To tiace the oriyfin of which let us turn our atten-
tion for a while to the course of the gulf stream and polar current.
By glancing at Maui-y's Physical Chart, it will be seen that
the ijulf stream, after disehariiinij its heated watei's through the
channel formed by the coast of Florida on the one sid(! and CuV>a
md the Bahamas on the other, follows the trend of the American
boast northward until approaching the shoals of Nantucket,
^here it swerves to the N. E., passing south of Sable Island to
|ihe tail of the great bank of Newfoundland, and then stretching
)ver to Europe in a due east direction.
In opposition to this, we have the cold, ice-laden current of
^he North, one portion of which, after leaving the Arctic ocean,
jasses southward along the eastern coast of Greenland,where being
)ined by another bianch coming from Baffin's Bay and Davis'
Jtraits, it passes along the coasts of Labrador ami Newfoundland
the {jreat banks, where it is met by the northern edge of the
|ulf stream. At this point a division of the polar current takes
j^lace, — one portion, from its greater density, sinks l)elow the
Warm current of the gulf stream and continues its course south-
Ward as a sub-marine current. This has been doubte<l. In the
Transactions of this Institute for bSIJo, is a letter from Admiral
MiLNK to the President of this Society, concerning the currents
on the N. E. coast of North America, in which he says: "This
1Dt)lar current passes along the east coast of Newfoundland as
Mir as Cape Race, where a westein pait runs round it into St.
! I- I
I !i
\6
Mary's Bay, but the eastern part becomes lost. It is probably
checked by the northern limit of the gulf stream, and turned
into a more N. E. direction."
In that same year, however, it is recorded by Carpenter,
that while laying the Atlantic cable in lat. 51° N., and Ion. 38'^
W., a heavy storm came down upon them, and they were obliged
to cut the cable. A red buoy was attached to it by a long wire
rope, which, however, soon after broke loose and drifted away.
Seventy -six days after this buoy was seen by a West India mail
steamer in Lat. 42° N., Ion. 40° ; having travelled due south 600
nautical miles, a rate of alx>ut eight miles a day, directly against
the gulf stream and prevalent winds, which can be only account-
ed for by the fact of the great length of wire rope that was
hanging in the deeper polar current.
This has been further demonstrated by deeply-submerged
icebergs being carried into and across the gulf stream, and being
seen repeatedly as far south as 36° lat., by which it is inferred
that the deeply-immersed portion offered more resistance to the
lower current than to the shallow surface current, and was thus
borne southward across the gulf stream.
The other portion of the polar current, when it impinges on
the gulf stream at the great bank, becomes deflected to the west-
ward, partially by contact with the great bank, and in its course
its northern edge sweeps around Cape Race, into St. Mary's and
the other bays north, until lo.sing momentum it falls back and
joins the main body of the current. This portion, sweeping
around and into those bays, is commonly called the indraught
by mariners, and to it, being accelerated by certain .storms, is
attributed the loss of the " Cedar Grove," at Canso, and the Crom-
well boats at Cape Race.
The southern edge interlaces the gulf stream, and carries
western bound vessels at such a rate as frequently leads mariners
to miscalculate their position with reference to this island ; to
which fact are attributable many of the wrecks.
Capt. Darby, a former superintendent of the Island, in a
letter to Blunt's Coast Pilot, with regard to the strength of this
polar current says : " The most of the wrecks occurring hero
17
It is probably
am, and turned
by Carpenter,
N., and Ion. 38°
ey were obliged
) by a long wire
d drifted away.
Vest India mail
1 due south 600
directly against
)e only account-
rope that was
eply-submerged
ream, and being
;h it is inferred
esistance to the
it, and was thus
I it impinges on
ted to the west-
nd in its course
' St. Mary's and
falls back and
rtion, sweeping-
1 the indraught
jrtain storms, is
I, and the Crom-
im, and carries
'' leads mariners
this island ; to
he Island, in a
strength of this
occurring here
jirise from error in longitude. I have known vessels from
Europe that had not made an error of one-half degree in their
longitude until they came to the banks of Newfoundland, and
from there in mo<lerate weather and light winds have made errors
from GO to lOi) miles." It is difficult to understand how that
commanders of vessels, making voyages to and from this country
for so many years, should be apparently so ignorant of the
strength of these currents, unless, as it would seem, they have
periods of comparative quiescence and activity.
Theu, again, we have a third current — a portion of the polar
current, which, becoming detached at the southern end of Labra-
dor, and sweeping through the Straits of Belle Isle, is joined by
the vast flow of the St. Lawrence, and forms what is known as the
Gulf of St. Lawrence current. This combined current skirts the
east side of Cape Breton, passes south, and strikes obliquely in
the vjr'^iity of Sable Island that portion of the polar current
which is deflected westward by contact with the banks of New-
foundland.
To these opposing currents; then, must be attributed those
dangerous marine disturbances off our coast, of which Sable
Island seems to be the centre. Capt. Cloue, of the French navy,
remarked that during his survey of the Quero bank, adjoining
that of Sable Island, nothing surprised him more than the
strength and uncertainty of the currents, which often set in a
contrary direction to the prevailing winds, and change all
round the compass in 24 hours.
This, of course, is in accordance with well-known law.
Currents of water, like currents of air, meeting in opposite direc-
i tions, pi oduce eddies and swirls of the most conflicting character.
I In February, 1803, the first superintendent, having had
three months of anxiety from the rapidity with which the Island
had washed away in the vicinity of his house, and having lost
much of his provisions from the depredations of rats, and fearing
that want would stare him in the face before relief would reach
him in the spring vessel, built a dispatch boat and sent her out
crowded with azS^ before a S. E. gale, in hopes that she would
reach the main land, oi" be picked up by some inbound vessel that
ill
II
i'
18
would carry the dispatches to the Oovemraent, and acquaint
them of the starving condition of those on the Island. To his
surprise, in 13 days after she returned to the beach, six miles
above where she set out from.
This swirl motion around this Island is very marked. In
calm weather an empty barrel or cask will make circuit after
circuit of the Island, and this experiment is often resorted to for
testing the velocity of the cui rent. Again, bodies from wrecks
have often made the same circuit, and it is quite customary for
the surf men to search on the opposite side for things which,
in consequence of an off-shore wind, have been cairied thither by
the current, and deposited upon the beach. During the preva-
lence of stormy weather these currents become terribly conflict-
ing, and if accompanied by high tides, often remove by their
eroding action, hundreds of feet from the embankments Then,
again, danger often arises from the lowness of the shores.
Being treeless — with the exception of the light houses
having nothing to distinguish it fioni the surrounding ocean,
which it so resembles in colour — vessels have been known in a
stifl" breeze and clear weather to run directly for the Island,
without the slightest knowledge of its proximity, until their
attention has been arrested by the red ensign flung to the breeze
from the flagstaff at one of the stations. Often sailing vessels
and mail steamers are seen from the Island in positions clearly
showing that they were unaware of its presence.
Fogs of a density seldom experienced elsewhere are pre-
valent all the year round, and accompany all winds from N. E.
round by south to S. W. The warm, moist air from above the
gui stream meeting the cold air above the polar current, is
condensed into fog which gives but little warning of approach,
and contributes in a marked degree to the dangerous surround-
ings of th)5 Island.
Another danger arises from its proximity to the gulf stream.
Ask the mariner where he most dreads to encounter the storm,
and perchance he will answer on a lea s lore or the northern
edge of the gulf.
Maury, who made a life study of the si. earn, says : " With
'^*tj.fl
"it ' -l-j ' i ' S W -iTirfJ'.Wi"'
to
and acquaint
md. To his
»ch, six miles
marked. In
circuit after
esorted to for
» from wrecks
ustomary for
ihings which,
led thither by
ig the preva-
ribly confiict-
love by their
uents Then,
shores.
light houses
unding ocean,
;n known in a
3r the Island,
■,y, until their
f to the breeze
sailing vessels
sitions clearly
here are pre-
ds from N. E.
om above the
ar current, is
r of approach,
ous surround-
e sfidf stream.
ter the storm,
the northern
says:
With
such elements of atmospheric disturbances on its bosom, it fol-
lows that storms of the most violent character would accompany
it in its course. Accordingly the most terrific that rage on the
ocean have been known to spend their fury on its northern
border."
There have been some memorable tempests here which have
marked, as it were, periodH in the history of this Island, — nights
of terror never to be forgotten. The inhabitants of this lonely,
desolate sand-bar have often despaired of ever seeing the dawn,
and sat speechless for hours, listening, terror-stricken, to the
howling of the blast, which threatened every moment to hurl
their dwellings from their unstable foundation into the seething
ocean. On one occasion, on going forth after such a night, they
were horrified to find that, in addition to the transformation
undertjone around them bv the removal of sand-hills, and the
creation of others, that a poition equal to 3 miles long, 40 feet
wide, and from 20 to GO feet hign, had gone bodily from the
north side of their Island. This now forms one of those parallel
bars over which the sea in storins breaks in terrific tumult. The
awful violence, as well as the suddenness of those storms, which
are cyclonic in their character, form one of the most remarkable
phenomena of this Island..
The sun often rises clear, giving indications of continued
good weather, and, with the exception of the sea breaking high
on the bars, and the fretful moan of the surf as it breaks along
the shore, there is no pretnonition of the corning storm. Sud-
denly a dull, leaden haze obscures the sun : clouds gather from
all directions. The sky assumes a wild, unusual appearance.
The wind begins to rise n fitful gusts, carrying swirls of sand
before it. The darkness increases as the low, driving scud shuts
in all distant objects. Now the gale bursts in awful fury,
whipping ofl" the summits of the hummocks, carrying before it
a cloud of blinding sand-drift. Darkness adds to the horror of
the scene, while rain descends in a perfect deluge. No human
voice can be heard above the tempest. The crinkled lightning
for an instant lights up the mad waves, as they rear and hiss
along the bea jh. Then a sudden calm ensues, — as strange as
20
calm. A few short gusts at first break this period of tranquility,
and in a few minutes the hurricane bursts again from the oppo-
site quarter. The darkness is still intense, relieved only by the
red glare of the lightning, which is quickly followed by the
crashing of the thunder, as it strives to be heard above the
howling of the blast. Gradually the storui ceases, the clouds
break and pack away in dense black masses to leeward, and the
sea alone retains its wild tumult.
During such a tempest in 1811, thousands of tons of sand
were carried from the beach — some from one side and some from
the other, as the gale shifted — and strewn over the island, so
that vegetation was nearly smothered, hundreds of horses
died for want of food, and the outlines of the Island completely
changed. Sand-hills that had formed land-marks were tumbled
into the sea, and mountains piled where once were valleys ;
recent wrecks disappeared, and others brought to view of which
there is no history.
It is interesting to note that while in several places in
Great Britain they are at present making many and successful
experiments in the way of lessening the dangers of harbour
approacli by pouring oil on the troubled waters, the utility of
this has been demonstrated at this Island nearly 40 years ago,
and although the superintendent, Capt. Darby, gave every pub-
licity to the circumstances, and pointed out its advantages, we
have little evidence of it being adopted until the last few years.
A.S this oil theory is attracting so much attention of late,
in Liverpool and other places, I will give you, in a condensed
form, Capt. Darby's report of the saving of Capt. Higgins and
his crew, as follows :
" On the 19th of September, 1846, the Government schr.
" Daring," commanded by my eldest son, came to the Island for
the purpose of conveying to Halifax the crew and materials of
the wreck of the ship " Detroit," lately stranded there with her
crew and passengers: also the crew of the schoonei- "Lady Elcho,"
lately stranded there. We got the schooner down the north side
to the wreck of " Detroit," about ten miles to the eastward of
head-quarters, and commenced shipping her materials, and the
work went on with vigour and alacrity. The day was moderatt-,
21
with liglit airs of wind from the eastward. It was a clear and
cloudless day, but it had a certain dull appearance about it, that
seemed to poitend a ^atherinj^ of the elements together, as if for
strife. The sea ran high, although there was no wind, and gave
us a good deal of trouble, by often Hlling our loaded boats in
crossing the bars, where it often broke very badly, and rolled
along the shore with a groaning and wry troubled .sound. After
the sun passed the meridian the gloom and dulness seemed to
increase, the sea rose liigher, although but little wind, and the
moaning sound of the waters as they bit)ke along the strand,
seemed to give strong indications of a coming storm. Our work
proceeded successfully, notwithstanding the difficulties we had
to contend with ; — the property was all shippe<l, the vessel loaded
and ready for sea, and at half an hour after sun.set she got under
weigh, with our boat ami boat's crew to be towed up to head-
quarters and landed there. The wind was now a fresh Ineeze
from east. I got on my hoise to keep abreast of the vessel,
which I did until dark. 1 had ten miles to go to the landing
place, 1 drove to that point as fast as I could, and then rushed
on to tlie beach to watch the arrival of my boat. It was now
very dark, with a fresh bree/.e, and tlie sea rising very fast. The
whole ocean seemed to be in a phosphoretic Ijlaze of light. I
soon observed our boat coming directly towar<ls me : 1 jumped
off my horse, and as I always rode with six fathoms of line on
my horse's neck, one end I fastened there, and the other end I
tied to my leg. I was then able to assist my people in the boat
without loosing my horse, as she filled and turned over just as
she got within my reach. The people reported that the schooner
hauled off' to sea the moment that the boat left her. We hauled
up and secured our boat for an appioaching gale, then went to
the house, changed our wet clothes, got supper, and set a watch.
At midnight the watch reported heavy gale of wind from E. N.
E. ; at foui- o'clock the morning of the 20th, a most terrific gale
of wind with rain from the N. E. ; and at daylight the gale to be
still increasing, and the wind veering to the N. N.E. All hands
out. The hull of the schooner Lady Klcho, that had been wrecked
near the landing, could be seen from the look-out house to be
floating and knocking about on the beach, and we had to crawl
on our hands and knees across the Island to where her cargo of
barrels of mackeiel was {)iled up, — the wind being so violent we
could not proceed against it in an upright position. We found
the caigo in danger of being smashed to pieces by the sea, and
we commenced parbuckling it up the bank to a place of compar-
ative safety, and were so occupied until about noon ; and it was
/
22
this circuinstancu tliat lirought uh all out tlicru in that terrific
gale, aH if Providence (Jirected that we .should all be out and all
together so as to be the better prepared for what was going to
follow. All of a sudden, we .saw an object otf the North side
(lead to windward which wo first thought was a large bird, but
shortly after discovered that it was a sail distant five or six miles,
and that she was running down right before this tremendous gale
dead on a lec-.shore. We could work no more at the barrels.
Our eyes'.vere strained in the direction of the object that appear-
ed to bo running to inevitable destruction. My first impres.sion
was that it was the schooner Daving which had left the Island
the evening before, and that they had met with .some disaster .so
as to disable, the vessel in the gale, and were going to run her on
shore before night to save their lives.
We could see that she wa.s a schooner with a close-reefed main-
sail .set, steering directly for our flag-staff. I was convinced that
it was my son, who with two of his sisters on board, and a great
number of other passengers, were taking this method to preserve
their lives. The .sea was breaking everywhere ott' the North side
as far as the eye could see, and it appeared almost incredible that
any ves.'sel could li' 3 to come so great a distance through such
mountains of broken water. I got a rope prepared, to assist in
preserving the people's lives should the vessel be able to reach
the beach through the roaring and boiling mountains of water
that surrounded her. When she approached within three miles
of the land she appeared to be in the heaviest bn-akers, and we
could plainly perceive mountain waves on each side of her that
would I'aise their cui'led heads as high as the tops of her masts
and pitch over and fall with the weight of hundreds of tons,
either oi' which would have been sufficient to have smashed that
frail bark to atoms ; but, miraculous as it may appear, not one of
them touched her. At one moment you could just perceive the
beads of her masts between the mountains of waters that were
smashing and breaking to pieces all around, but not permitted
to hurt her ; at the next moment you would see her on the top
of a tremendous wave which appeared like certain destruction to
her ; at another, you would see a mountain sea rising up before
her and breaking all to fragments in her path, but when she
arrived at the spot the surface was smooth as glass. When she
arrived within one mile of the shore she had to pass over what
we call the Outer Bar, where every sea broke from the bottom,
and our greatest anxiety for the .safety of the vessel was at this
point. The sea was there breaking with tremendous violence,
but that heaven-favored bark passed through untouched, — the
23
Hca l>ccaino smooth before her, aiul she left a shininfj track })ehi!ul.
Now. liere was the iiiiruele. I hxiked on this with won<h'r, awe
and a<hniratioi), and not without hope. When she ai)proaehed a
little nearer, I could .see one man l»i.shed to the helm and two
men forwai<l laHhe<l bv each of the foie-sliroudu, and by each
man a larj^c; cask .standmg on end. We could also see that the
two men were making great exertions with their arms, as if
throwing something up in the win<l. The vi'sscl had now passed
the njost dangerous place, and hei* .safety seeme<l (tertain, — 1 could
breathe much freer than 1 ha<l done for some minutes. Another
half-mile V)rought her to the beach, and her bow struck the sand.
From this spot to the high bank was about fifty oi- sixty yards
over a flat beach, which was always dry except in heavy gales,
but was now covere<l over with water. A nuiidter of heavy .seas
would roll together over the beach, and then r<!cede, leaving it
dry. Over this place myself and the men were extende<l with a
rope leading from the bank down to the ve.ssel's l)ow, on which
we held to keep the .sea from washing u.s away ; and when the
great body of watei receded, we could approach as near as the
jib-boom end, from which, one by one, the crew lowered them-
.selves by a rope into our arms, and we passed th<Mn in safety to
the l)anK.
"The Schooner was the Aryio, Capt. HlooiNS, with twelve
men, from Quero Bank, where they had been fishing. They left
the Bank at the commencement of the gale. He had lost all his
head .sails when at daylight this morning he made the land dead
under his lee, with the gale blowing right on .shoi'c. The vessel
havinij no head-.sail, he could do nothin<j with her on a wind.
He let go his anchor in twenty fathoms of water, paid out three
hundred fathoms of hemp cable, and brought the vessel head to
wind. In that tremendous .sea he held on until noon, when, seeing
no pro.spect of the gale abating, he cut his cable and put the
vessel before the wind, preferring to run her on shore before night
to riding there and foundering at her anchor. He lashe<l him-
.self to the helm, sent all his men below but two, and nailed up
the cabin-doors. He had two large casks placed near the fore-
shrouds and lashed there. He then diiected his two best men to
station themselves there and la.sh themselves firndy to the casks,
which were partly filled with blubber and oil from the fish. They
had each a wooden ladle about two feet long, and with those ladles
they dipped up the blubber and oil, and threw it up in the air a.s
high as they could. The great violence of the wind carried it far
to leeward, and, spreading over the water, made its surface smooth
before her and left a shining path behind ; and although the sea
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would riso very high, yet the top of it was smooth, and never
broke where the oil was. It was raging, pitching and breaking
close to her on each side, but not a barrci of water fell upon her
deck the whole distance. The vessel was so old and tender that
she went all to pieces in a very short time after the crew, with
their clothing and provisions, were saved."
With regard to this phospheresence of the sea, at times
there are magnificent displays of it here. Among the early
inhabitants it was the cause of much alarm, and augmented the
many stories of the supernatural told in connection with the
place. Its first appearance to one of the superintendents, is
recorded in the journals of the Island as follows :
" Last night a singular phenomenon appeared on the south
side. The sea being high, and the night very dark, the breaking
of the sea would exnibit at intervals of from 5 to 10 minutes a
, phosphorent light. In some places it would be seen through the
gulchfc? on the south side. When the beach was low, and the
sea broke high, it would rise in a great bright light to the height
of 15 or 20 feet, like an enormous fire, yet only to be seen at
certain places at a time."
In other places it is spoken of as the sea being on fire.
It generally appears after much southerly wind, and is
probably brought by the drift, or surface current, from the gulf
stream.
In the short time allotted me this evening, Mr. President,
I can but glance at the many interesting phenomena of the
Island and its surroundings. These facts and incidences are
such as I have been able to obtain fiom available documents, as
well as fi'om personal observation. From these facts I have
deduced certain inferences, the plausability of which I humbly
submit to the judgment of this Institute.
On some future occasion I hope to present to you in detail
what is, perhaps, the most interesting and important feature in
connection with this Island, viz. — Its Changed Position.
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