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BIBLIOTHEQUE DE LA 
 VILLE DE MONTREAL 
 
 i f7 V_ 
 
 
 COLLECTION 
 GAGNON 
 
 (r+ 
 
 
 ^"^l^S 
 
 Ur/tsL 
 
 } 
 
 BlBLIOTHfcOUE 
 PHlLiAS&ACNniLl 
 qU^BECCANADATI 
 
tv^ 
 
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 «"' i^ '*-? o 
 
 «> -w « O f 
 
 ^ O '^ 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 OF 
 
 A VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES 
 
 AND 
 
 BRITISH PROVINCES OF NORTH AMERICA, 
 
 IN THE YEARS 1847, 1848, AND 1849. 
 
 BY ROBERT PLAYFAIR, ESQ. 
 
 EDINBURGH: THOMAS CONSTABLE AND CO. 
 HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO., LONDON. 
 
 MDCCCLVI. 
 
 ) 
 
 
 
bd.««ubob:t.cok8tab,,e,ph,„b« 
 
 TO HBR MAJBSTV. 
 
 Vis: 
 
 Sep 
 
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 eitl 
 
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 reti 
 
 life 
 
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 Fra 
 
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PREFACE. 
 
 I SCARCELY recollect how early in life my desire to 
 visit our North American colonies originated; their 
 separation from the mother country was then a com- 
 paratively recent event; the war which led to it had 
 been as popular in Great Britain as its results were held 
 at the time to be disastrous to the empire at large ; 
 many families who had emigrated from Scotland po°or' 
 either dissatisfied with the new state of things in the 
 colonies, or from their invincible love of home, were 
 returning from time to time, to close the evening of a 
 life of industry and frugality in their native land, with 
 the competence it had procured. 
 
 These causes combined to keep the colonies and their 
 affairs more or less on the tapis in Scotland ; and we 
 were accustomed to hear the merits of Washington, 
 Franklin, and other American statesmen of that day' 
 discussed by parties who had known them personally. 
 
 A long interval has elapsed since the time to which I 
 allude; the colonies in question have advanced from 
 comparative youth to a vigorous manhood. 
 
 In the meantime, finding myself in possession of that 
 leisure which was denied me at an earlier season, and 
 
IV 
 
 PREFACE, 
 
 having a sister residing in Nova Scotia, I resolved to 
 take the opportunity to visit her, and these colonies 
 generally. 
 
 In so hackneyed a subject it is perhaps not possible 
 to say much that is ne,v. I set out, however, with the 
 mtention of judging unprejudicedly forniyself: to this 
 I have endeavoured to adhere. Considering also that 
 the magniBcent steam communication across the Atlantic 
 lias made what was formerly a serious undertaking 
 now an easy affair-very much a summer pleasure eZ 
 oursion^it is impossible not to foresee, when we con- 
 sider Ae beauty, the extent, and the variety of the 
 countnes m question, that they must eventually become 
 the resort of our numerous touriste who have already 
 inundated and partly exhausted Europe. With this 
 view I have given some account of the prices of the 
 hotels, railroads, &c.-information genemlly useful, but 
 very much overlooked by our modern travellers 
 
 I have also endeavoured to view these colon.es, par- 
 icularly the British provinces, in reference to the advan- 
 tages they offer to the better classes of emigrants 
 
 With these few remarks, I dismiss the following 
 pages. *=> 
 
 Edinbdhgh, March 1856. 
 
esolved to 
 e colonies 
 
 it 
 
 t possible 
 , with the 
 f : to this 
 also that 
 3 Atlantic 
 iertaking 
 asure ex- 
 1 we con- 
 y of the 
 y become 
 5 already 
 ^ith this 
 IS of the 
 eful, but 
 
 ies, par- 
 3 advan- 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Cherbourg — Havre, 
 
 I'AOH 
 
 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Voyage Ont — Steerage Passengers— Passengers — Conversations — 
 Mortality amongst the Children — Crew, 
 
 CHAPTER JIT. 
 
 New York— Hotels— Public Buildings — Promenades, 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 American Steam-boats — Hudson River, .... 
 
 18 
 
 29 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Albany— Public Buildings— New Cemetery— Cahoes Falls— Arsenal 
 — Presbyterian Church— American Railways, . . 35 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Saratoga Springs— Hotels— Amusements— Society-Conversation, 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 atica— Trenton Falls— Market Prices— Auburn— Model Prison- 
 Geneva— Boat Race— Old Lady— Rochester— Genesee Falls- 
 Elephant — Lewiston, ..... 
 
 44 
 
 49 
 
VI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 i 
 
 CHAPTEil VIII. 
 
 Falls of Niagara-Canadian Siclc-Indian«-nuiraIo, 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 "-!:^;C:^ ^--E.i,.ants-Canada^ 
 RnpidH, . "PP"'^«-K'ng«ton-R.vor St. Lawronco-Gallop 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Montrcal-Habitans-Sir F li lu v . . 
 -U Prairie- St JohnV' ' '"^''^ Emigrant" 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 ^ „ CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Nova Scotia-IIalifax-Harbour-Pol.-H- i r . 
 man Catholics ''^'^^^'-i'ohtical dissensions-Irish R, 
 
 I'AUK 
 
 5(; 
 
 61 
 
 71 
 
 75 
 
 :o- 
 
 84 
 
 Po ir ^ !> . CHAPTER XHI. 
 
 J^edford Basin-Windsor-River A vnn xxr ,r ■„ 
 
 ^^DykeLand-IUptists-cLX;^^^^^^^^ 
 
 I eniperance Movenient-rUmnf rT ^'^'"'^'^^—TreeH-Money— 
 
 n u , CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 „ . CHAPTER XV 
 
 J^asin of MinPQ t> i , 
 
 K.ver St. Joh„_Frc,ferickioS . ' "'"' B"'"™-"*- 
 
 p CHAPTER XVI 
 
 90 
 
 104 
 
 107 
 
 161 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Vll 
 
 PA(iF 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Charleston-Kanawha River -Steamer -Leaden Plate-Ohio 
 River— Cincinnati— LouiHville— Mammoth Cave, 
 
 IM 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 New York-Courts of Law-Croton Bridge-Aqueduct-" Dom- 
 bey and Son "-Black Population -Convorsation -Finance- 
 liuladelphia-Athenroum-Fairmont Waterworks-Laurel Hill 
 Cometery-Theatre-Ponn's Hospital-Oirard College-Eas- 
 « 1 ^"'t.<;"ti«''y-Mint-Voluntary System-Delaware River 
 — hohuylkill River— Lower Orders— Repudiation, 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Baltimore-Wasliington-Capitol-Chambers of Congress-Presi- 
 dent 8 House— President's Reception— Outline of the History 
 of the United States— Remarks, , .„ 
 
 CHAPTER XLX. 
 
 Museum— Episcopal Church— Disastrous news from Franco- Re 
 markable Conversation of Buonaparte-Richmond-Slavery- 
 State House-Episcopal Church-Tobacco Stores-Route to 
 the Virginia Springs-Warm Springs-Untoward Event-Hot 
 Springs-White Sulphur Springs-Black Man-Departure 
 \\ estward— General Remarks, . 
 
 lfi(j 
 
 186 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Kentucky-Western River Steamers-Electric Telegraph- 
 Steamer to St Lewis-River Mississippi-Steamer to Chicago 
 -Illinois River— Canal, . ,„- 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Chicago-lllinois-Michigan-Detroit-Canadian Side-Lake St. 
 Clair-Rxver Ihames-Chatham-London-Books-Hamilton 
 
 -Lectures-Lake Ontario-Proscott-Conversation-Montreal 
 —Legislature— Quebec, . . „,,„ 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 Route to Boston-Mr. Wilson's Songs-Supper Party-British 
 Steamer to Halifax-Return to Wolfville-General Remarks- 
 Expenses, ... 
 
Vlll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAITKR XXIV. 
 
 Book Club-Mr. Macaulay'8 History of Engl.in.l-Vohairo-R.- 
 marks, , , ^ 
 
 • • 
 
 CIIAPTKR XXV. 
 
 Tour to Pictou-Coal Mines-New ( JlaHRow-Tour to Prince Ed- 
 wanlH Islanc -Charlotte Town-Vi«it to the Interior-Uetun. 
 to Nova Scotia, . 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Visit to Nictau ami its Noighbourhood-Dipby-Tempcrance 
 Meeting-- General Remarks, . . 
 
 CHAPTER XXVTI. 
 
 Voyage Home-Steamoi-Passengers-Arrival at Liverpool- 
 hxotcr, . . '■ 
 
 240 
 
 213 
 
 958 
 
 264 
 
VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 OHAPTEK I. 
 
 ( IIKUUOUUO— IIAVKE. 
 t 
 
 Having finally arranged matters for my long pro 
 posed visit to America, I embarked, on the 19tli June 
 1847, in a steamer from Jersey, on a pleasure- trip to 
 Cherbourg, which took Guernsey on its way, accompanied 
 by my two daughters, the elder thirteen, the younger 
 nine years of age. • 
 
 Cherbourg, as no doubt well known, is an important 
 naval station and depot, probably the most important 
 belonging to France in the Channel. 
 
 On both sides of the Channel a want of good harbours 
 for naval warfare is felt, but more particularly on the 
 French side ; to remedy which in some measure, vast 
 works have been constructed at this port, particularly an 
 immense breakwater of great length and solidity, run- 
 ning apparently parallel to the shore with an elliptic 
 curve outwards ; at a due distance from the harbour 
 leaving a spacious and apparently safe roadstead. These 
 works were commenced as far back as the reign of the 
 
 A 
 
I 
 
 1 1 (I 
 
 * REOOLLEOTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 unfortunate Lonis xvi., wl.o is said to liave taken , 
 great mtereat in thorn ; they are now in c„" ^ oTcl' 
 
 CSt:ir '"—'>'' p"po- forwhiehr. 
 
 By written permission of the authorities, we were 
 
 nth others of our fellow-passengers, permit ed toTto 
 
 the dockyard, arsenal, &c We saw some *.ne sll 
 
 on the stocks, of 100 guns and upwards ; these we ^^^ 
 
 to be much gomg on, numerous workmen employed in 
 .o.str„etmg mner basins, dry docks, &c., with a^" 
 expendrture on the part of the Government Wht 
 
 prevaded .n the silence of the town iiself, nothing doing 
 
 :^:^:rhriTTnXiSit^^^^ 
 
 which, to a merchant XZZlir^rJ. 
 change for an English note, he replied that the Gov! „ 
 
 ::;r;t':hTn!:'e:'''' "-' "-^ '-'-"^^^^ -^^^^ 
 
 From Cherbourg we went by Diliffencp ^^ ft,r no n 
 
 In tlie course of this little journey, I was much struck 
 «ith the comfortable condition of the neasantrr Z 
 appeared to be well fed, well clad, heir cTs^^lf'^' 
 plements of husbandry in good condition nd„eot 
 trad stmcl,=n to this, with the deserted awearanee e^d 
 want of eornmercial activity in the small sia!po ftow" 
 a few vessels might be seen in an outer harbour i^a„' 
 umer, a sohtaiy Norwegian perhaps, unloadin/ws ^rgo 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 3 
 
 of deals. I except of course Havre, where we arrived in 
 due time, and which is well known to be a large and 
 flourishing commercial town, the harbour of Paris, in 
 fact, with splendid docks, and every symptom of acti- 
 vity, industry, and wealth. 
 
 We took up our abode in the Hotel de France, one 
 of the largest and best in the town, where we found'our- 
 seJves very well accommodated ; our custom was to dine 
 at the Table d'Hdte, to bieakfast and take tea in one 
 of the numerous cafe's, generally in the centre of the 
 town, in the neighbourhood of the theatre. This was 
 to us a sort of moving panorama or tableau vivant, in 
 which the inhabitants were passed in review before us, 
 while, at the same time, it afforded us a very good lessoii 
 in the language, which my daughters already began to 
 profit by. 
 
 I had visited Havre on more than one occasion before 
 consequently I found nothing new to me in it now, save 
 that smoking tobacco had become a general custom, 
 prevalent in every cafe, which was certainly not tlie case 
 in former times, proving, as Sir Waiter Scott somewhere 
 observes, " bad habits to be easily acquired, while good 
 habits require a mentor," 
 
 The French, much to their credit, love and patronize 
 the drama ; every provincial town of moderate size sup- 
 ports a theatre, which is generally built in good taste, 
 being at once an ornament to the town as well as a 
 source of rational amusement to its inhabitants ; this we 
 found, as was to be expected, 'par excellence, the case at 
 Havre, where its theatre ornaments the grand square or 
 place, having arcades on each side, in front of handsome 
 shops, cafes, &c. 
 
 To the theatre of course we went, to see a Monsieur 
 Revel, a star from Paris; but I found I had il! cliosen. 
 
BECOLIEOTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ">y "igi.t. The fimt piece was an opera iu fb„r ant, „ft 
 ■lomg penance through the whole of wh^h he h ^f 
 
 put in their veto It Zfl T ' '"^' «^'* ^"^'^'^ 
 intendedtoshewhimoff no I '"''PPT'* '" •'' P''"^^ 
 a third followed after wUchirT ""* '" "'^ ™'°'l ■ 
 
 tt>e opportunity to speak very dis~fiin % 7 
 firace, asserting that thp P,.,,!- '"^'^fP'"^"""/ ot his 
 Waterioo. Iteco Win ! T T,' ^"L""'' "''' '''"'^^ "^ 
 of Tacitus thrwhen '° Pl^'o^opWcal observation 
 
 army clain; *:h Je :" tle'S- ITT'V'' """'^ 
 he alone is held resnonslMr T \^? 'he reverse, 
 would have been bref 1^ 1.^ 2* Jf^.^ ?" 
 rorrrlpir'''^''--'-^^-"PP»^'inS 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 CHAPTEK 11. 
 
 VOYAGE OUT— STEERAGE PASSENGERS— PASSENGERS— CONVEIJ- 
 SATIONS— MORTALITY AMONGST THE CHILDREN— CREW. 
 
 Ever since the assistance rendered them in their war 
 of independence, a friendly feeling has existed between 
 the United States and France ; and a considerable com- 
 merce is carried on between them, mostly to the port of 
 Havre ; the one supplying the other with cotton for the 
 manufactories of Rouen and elsewhere, tobacco, and 
 other commodities ; receiving in exchange, wines, broad 
 cloths, earthenware, dried fruits, &c. 
 
 A line of splendid packets plies regularly between 
 Havre and New York, generally show-ships elegantly 
 fitted up. In one of the handsomest of these— the New 
 York, Captain Lines, a truly elegant new vessel, of four- 
 teen hundred tons, advertised to sail on the 2d July— we 
 took our passage, the fare for each grown cabin pas- 
 senger being 650 francs (£26) : my daughters being 
 under age, one other such fare sufficed for both, making 
 m all £52, exclusive of the usual fees to the steward and 
 stewardess-a very respectable female being on board 
 in the latter capacity. 
 
 We were summoned on board on the 2d July, merely 
 to be dismissed again, the captain finding he could not 
 clear the docks on that day, or from some other cause. 
 We were all assembled, however, on board next dav 
 
fW! 
 
 19 i 
 
 ! 
 
 I',': 
 
 a 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VLSIT 
 
 -D Clearing the wet dock, crowded as it was with 
 pre.^ by population and hi^h ^ rhl''; ttT 
 
 ^«:ifrL»ra:;:t;t^^ 
 
 any lack of steerage passengers. 
 
 This class of emigrants is said to be deservedly nor,,, 
 » m the United States; they are generl^lyi^: 
 .luced persons of some substance, fhe pass^^ 
 
 fenes r£] do7 ""^r*"' ''"^'"^ from one hundred 
 ye^ ^J^}/'>""}J^'f'><^ocoTdmg to the season of the 
 
 San^iteetf tr^S •^ir^''^'^ 
 P-chase from the stewaiTi^iHiitlltr:' '''' ""^ 
 
 and fif v'ofT"" r'''""' "' ■""* ''''»"' ''^o hundred 
 and Mty of these steerage passengers on board and the 
 
 object of our now anchoring-whth I v/^llr^ I, 
 
 o be to perfo,™ a very usual and important du^vTe' 
 to muster these, to see that none were allowed to remai^' 
 
 ™idTir1" '"' r '"^" ^^^'^'^-O »" ^•>o- - avbg 
 for part s t%A\:^^T' '" ""^ « '^"""on poetic: 
 few d!v ^t 1 ,'"'''"'! ""*" *''« ^hip has been a 
 
 work ^L n'", '"* ""'' "^'"S *» ««' them to 
 
 Td J vi! * ,'?"'''' "^'^ Wropriately, Stow-aways • 
 
 oeneialiy male their appearance in the end 
 
 coMin^r'tTr'^"'*'' '^'^^'^ having 
 come off ,n a boat of rather large dimension., for *! 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES, 7 
 
 purpose, the muster in question took place— a rather 
 tedious affair ; in the course of which we saw, from time 
 to time, about half a dozen in all of these interlopers 
 lowered into the boat, which then left us. 
 
 This important operation over, we spread our canvas, 
 and ran down channel, with a fair wind, and rather 
 fresh breeze. 
 
 At first we saw but few vessels ; next day, however, we 
 got within the track of the English commerce, when a 
 very animated scene opened upon us ; the sea was liter- 
 ally covered with ships in every direction, as far as the 
 eye could reach. I beheld this sight with unmingled 
 admiration, the more so, from the contrast it offered to 
 the other side. My fellow-passengers seemed also much 
 interested in the moving panorama before us ; while the 
 captain, busy with his glass from side to side, did us the 
 involuntary homage to acknowledge that England must 
 be a great country ; he had never seen so many ships in 
 his life at one time before. 
 
 To-day, after dinner, the captain ordered champagne, 
 reminding us that it was the anniversary of their "de- 
 claration of independence (4th July), and that we must 
 drink to the prosperity of the United States, which we 
 responded to willingly. 
 
 The morning of the third day found us off the Lizard 
 Lights, the wind still Mr; shortly after passing the 
 Scilly Islands, it veered round quite against us, blowing 
 hard, with very rough weather for about a week, aftel- 
 which it cleared up, when we began, one by one, to 
 emerge from our cabins, the children, of whom there 
 were a good many on board, mine among the number, 
 bemg the first to recover ; we found ourselves in the 
 wide Atlantic, out of sight of land - a solitary vessel 
 here and there in view. 
 
8 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 The cabin was tolerably fiJI T '"'" ''''"- 
 
 >"<»% of re^pectarLtLn or°""''\''."°''^'''°S 
 and children. Besides ther«P ""?"' ^^"^ ""''^'X' 
 
 Jew from Paris wi>h h;. % """^"^^s »* -t^lnJadelphia ; a 
 
 th.echii.s::\ri;f,7^ers 
 
 bejn, the^onlf E^^J^tTr^^^'^^"'' "-^-^ 
 
 ilie children were the firsf +A i.o. 
 witli each other ^^'^""^ acquainted 
 
 o.S:ff:^>SJ^-« in An,e,.., b. 
 lus wife, sons, and conneiions\ T (r Y'* 'J'""'' "* 
 gent; be was' reading tl" hltry oftb, ^ r k""^"'" 
 <y.est. as recently written b^'Fren^ aufw"''; 
 showed me an enoravino- ../ 1 -^^encii author, and 
 
 h.™ane prinee-that a?h" hid IIT'' T' '"^<' 
 benefactor of Becket rniri" '.J"^'^ "'« Patron and 
 
 highest civil offlc s of he J:™ ^'"^, °^"^^^y to the 
 the metropolitan see of I ;? '"'' ^''^^q^^ntly to 
 object of curbing the "n 1""'"'''""^' ^"'h the avowed 
 
 hierarchy o"tnfd!v th '"*"''""' "^ '^' K°™i«l' 
 
 gone so L in'h]: aTpp^tirtrth" p' '' '-' 
 
 new office, as to have in ^ '""■'°" '» 'he king m his 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 of the little 
 time being. 
 Sj consisiing 
 their wives, 
 returning to 
 adelphia ; a 
 of his wife, 
 ' said to be 
 two French 
 I daughters 
 
 acquainted 
 
 oen'ca, but 
 nsisting of 
 be intelli- 
 glish con- 
 thor, aud 
 i Bajeux 
 1 to know 
 Becket — 
 ng or the 
 i was too 
 ' present 
 'ise, and 
 tron and 
 •y to tlie 
 ently to 
 
 avowed 
 Romish 
 
 he had 
 : in his 
 bd his 
 ore the 
 
 9 
 
 
 apparent reconciliation which brought the archbishoj) 
 into the king's power. 
 
 Becket returned to England boasting that he had got 
 everything his own way ; when he was ordered with 
 firmness by the delegated Government (in the king's 
 absence), to retire within his diocese of Canterbury, 
 where the catastrophe in question soon followed. 
 
 He next spoke of the Frencli Revolution, as com- 
 pared with our great civil war, observing that if Louis 
 XVI. had been as active, and had made as stout a resist- 
 ance as Charles i,, he might have been successful ; to 
 which I replied, that as far as I could judge from 'his- 
 tory, the Parliaments of the first years of his reign were 
 harsh to Charles, refusing him a revenue ; that tlie tide 
 ran strongly in favour of a republic ; and that the best 
 excuse for the king is that when the Parliament, and 
 afterwards ' Cromwell, got the upper hand, they were 
 each in turn as arbitrary. 
 
 Early in the civil war, we find the Earl of Man- 
 chester, then in command of the army of the Parlia- 
 ment, accusing his Lieutenant-General, Cromwell of 
 having said to him, that if he would listen to honest 
 men, he would find himself at the head of an army that 
 could give law both to king and Parliament, and that 
 It would never be well in England until he (the Earl) 
 was plain Mr. Montague. 
 
 That this, in my mind, was a key to all that subse- 
 quently took place. 
 
 We breakfasted at eight ; lunched at twelve • dined 
 at four ; and took tea at eight. To our dinner we were 
 allowed ordinary French wine, with a dessert of some 
 kind or other. Our steward was a man of colour • he 
 was also our cook, and had two coloured assistants. ' 
 
10 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 Our cabins were commodious little apartmente ^ni^r 
 ing from the eating saloon, each conta ira Sfa and 
 
 the!*pel1rdTvrP^" my bull's-eye when the wea- 
 ker perm tted, which wus almost every night to enlov 
 
 The German Jew, who had become my friend ofth*. 
 My learned friend, whom I had set down for a ind..^ 
 
 Net Y;r,t >'^/"J' ^'^"^'""™' '-« -tt/e^t 
 M^tv. '.,,■"* made a fortune by selling French 
 
 cans are said to be very partial. Having maiiied »„ 
 American lady, he had taken her and hfs S.'dren t^ 
 
 'S„S'^ '-'"'' ''' "^"~'^^. -'partly 
 Of this gentleman, I only recollect that he asked m. 
 
 "Prr! °"„^'^'"S whom he meant by runners 
 Persons traveUing on aifaira of trade." I replied S 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. ]] 
 
 friend, was his brolher Jew, who it seems was an ai-tifi- 
 cal flower-maker, wealthy, having two establishment., 
 one m Pans the other in New York. I had occasion 
 to be pleased with this man, whom I found to be clever 
 social, liberal, yet unassuming. ' 
 
 There was also a Quaker on board, an American 
 gentleman, with a very pretty wife, four fino children 
 and one French bonne, who had been in their service 
 many years-their only domestic, did all the work, and 
 took care of all the children. I found them very 
 amiable, a pattern of conjugal aifection, and conse- 
 quently very happy, as they deserved to be. He had a 
 warehouse, he told me, in New York, for French earthen 
 ware-one brother residing in France to buy, the other 
 in New York to sell ; he had been residing in France 
 lor some years, and was now about to change with his 
 brother ; their business, he said, was profitable, and so 
 sure, that they could reckon their income from year to 
 year, to a few dollars ; our ship being partly freighted 
 with his ware. I had opportunity enough afterwards of 
 uSlatr^"'^'^ ^" general use throughout the 
 
 There was also a young American gentleman, who 
 was thought to flirt too much with the French lady 
 
 Another young American, who, as he said, had been 
 travelling in China for his health, observ;d that, ^• 
 England made war again on the Chinese, she must my 
 her own expenses. On my asking why, he said, there 
 was no more money in China. He also said that during 
 the war, and the troubles that led to it, the English had 
 purchased their teas through American houses,lho had 
 reahzed large fortunes in consequence 
 
 Besides the above-mentioned passengers, there was 
 
 one young man. p^rfePfiv hi"-''- i- - 
 
 o , iJ.,i.K^^..j oic^o. ^ 2y iippearance and 
 
12 
 
 RECOLLECrrONH OF A VISIT 
 
 ment of jewellery ' ^ "'"•""'oo'l, an invest- 
 
 a'- at ti.oV,:r:;Vti„rnitar *::"'' '"-'^"^ 
 
 vessel ,.u„„i„g 'S'; "f,, 'l^^f ^^'V-^' •, » -i'<" 
 
 one solitary sail set the »pT fl T ""^"^"^ '^'""'' 
 
 ^^ y set, tlie sea flooding over her fore and 
 
 thllotlrZZrZV''' 'r'' "' ^-^""-"and, 
 %. The caj ain bldedTS "'<'"■"?"?' '"'^ ^™"> 
 to be an Ameriea., fZ Marbl ladT ' f '* ''~"<' 
 Focured for us a .npply of fltl,' *^f-T^"«««». and 
 acceptable, as well JVl „? ''"' ""^'"^ P''"™'' very 
 date howeve, tl e l,t ."^'T^'"^' "''"''^^ "^ '"> «" 
 war,^henTn Ut,: ''''' "' "'"^'^^' !"''"» the Mexican 
 
 yellowish whitfs bt: ouT T,: irv " 
 
 I'-reneh brothers an^used him If Tn eatehh.: hL r'*^ 
 m an ingenious wiv tt« + i ^dicniiig them ahve 
 
 iu two or tCe 2s ifn T """""^ '""»» thread 
 
 would fly and flutter abou , wtnt ^o^tlt t-"""' 
 entangle it in the wings of o^e or^^t^a^^b J^ u^ 
 
 nii ■ 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 13 
 
 The first w,« dmmmod with a ring of paper round its 
 neclc, «„nonncn.g the name of the ship, &o. ■ others he 
 prosente.1 with some gallantry to the kdies of the par 7 
 old and young, who, after satisfying their euriosity dis- 
 
 the lound of the admirmg steerage passengers. 
 
 On this gentleman being rallied at table on the narrow 
 V ews of „s eonntrymcn in regard to trade, and Z 
 absurd attaehn.ont to beet-root sugar, he slid it w 
 Leap I ventured to observe it might be low wZ 
 but It did not follow that it was eheap. He rid n 
 reply hat the revolutionary war having^exeluded he m 
 
 subst t itc that havmg gone out of the right track it 
 was ddhcult to regain it without injury to indivMnals 
 bn that my eountry, e.xisting by comraeree and mam,: 
 faeture.,, without such an e.xense, had elo-.^ed therw^ 
 proeetive duties for class iute'rests; that Sr Sol ' 
 Peel's recent measures to break thron,A ih^ T . • . 
 him above all P--, and th 't l-fX t ,a^^^^^^^^^ 
 when .,0 late, having driven him^'froi ofHt' ^s^h' 
 
 Our German emigrants were remarkably quiet an.I 
 
 well eondue ed ; grouped together in little famUrpar 
 
 m their national costumes e-nvp ihar.. • / ^ "^'^ 
 
 gipsy-like look. They vvem f ot al WM \ P?^ "^I'"'' 
 the ninrtm- .io„i i ^ ' allowed to intrude on 
 
 wolwif 1 ' ■?"* '"""^ '"'*^''- best-looking women 
 
 r , ff ' ^" ''T '^'"""g '» '*. ™hile their fhildre . 
 oy siifterance, would ocnsinnnlLr V ^'"iiureri, 
 
 one stow-away made his appearance. ^ " ' 
 
i4 
 
 ItECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 broke out among t^.^^Z^'^^'^'V'''^^^^^^ 
 
 . «"~*^ every day d . Tn^l^t t JthJIn"^;' 
 
 of one or other of these Jittle ones T ""^ 
 
 then '„„ :; t^z>£!2n ''" •*""■"'" "* ■ -• 
 
 '""•ial service, ^l en Tb " 'l ' "'"""^' !''■''"""« "'« 
 
 steerage pa.se„ge.,-.,u,at.W sti;?:':^^:!" i^ ot 
 iviV'n f ir« 1 • .f ^ ^^"^ '^' ^^^ excellence, the case 
 
 one .0. 2 -^eC^LTrjjT^r^^rt 
 
 sknderly manned, with sailors unknown 111,; ^tlo 
 to eael, other, such as may be picked up at Ihe^^:: 
 
> steerage pns- 
 ^% a mortality 
 'intl we were 
 'SH the funeral 
 It' corpse wa« 
 gilt attached, 
 lip 8 side; we 
 r reading the 
 3 inclined, its 
 oop. Eight 
 ! tiie captain, 
 ; ho said he 
 hut never so 
 
 iners, so well 
 no surgeon 
 ase here, as 
 3nt recently 
 vessels not 
 ^ns of good 
 ition to the 
 reed in our 
 
 s on board, 
 assistance. 
 5 generally 
 ch canvas, 
 arket, an') 
 s, the case 
 Jepeud-' .; 
 ly a liard 
 sea but 
 
 vessel, or 
 
 the jjort 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. ., 
 
 whore they mny happen to h<., him.1 at ,„„„t for the 
 vw out a,„l home; ou making which contmri 
 
 tam regulations mstitute,! by the Aa.oriean Governn.ent 
 n reference to their mercantile n.arine. By onlof C 
 he captum has power to flog to the extent, I tlrrf 
 
 iltTf f.,„ J ! ""™.P°™>'««»" officers of the ship con- 
 In^ t^Z2 '" """"■ ''^ ^"'"'^ -penter.'eool, 
 
 oe. about thuty seamen; these consisted, besides n>i 
 Uve Aniencans, of Germans, Dutch, Danes Swies at[ 
 l.orweg.ans ; two were English. Each seaman arri J 
 ' knife in a sheath, attached to hi,, waist by a be^ 
 I'emg, ,t seems, considered necessary for the sW„ dut7 
 when aloft or otherwise ; the dange'r of il jb ons h! 
 particular, under a iax system „f discipline ; su , how 
 ever, was not onrs. I have already had occasion to sperk 
 
 tion to his passengers : n nothino- .l.M u i 
 more than th^ good^ense and t feth bit^r the^ 
 management of this n.otley crew. His plan seemed to 
 he to allow no spirits whatever, and to keep theml^" 
 ^tantly at work : this the ship's duty did wh"n tit 
 weather was rough ; at other tiics they we e Imly d 
 m eleanmg the docks, the ship's sides renaWr tf 
 rope, end sails and in drawing 'up the baX f lat 
 for he general use, of which there was necessaX a 
 great consumption In tl>i= ,i, * »i "^'^^sanly a 
 
/'""^ "" 
 
 16 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 
 if! 
 
 I IN 
 
 Oiu- royage was now fast drawing to a close On.. 
 
 ot land-a pilot, more venturous than his iellows bore 
 
 newspapeis, I had leisure to examine him : ho was i 
 Me, th,n young man, with a round faoeand gld 
 niannem In the course of the day other pilots in sue 
 ce.^.on haded us, but <.ound themselves forestalled 
 
 JVext monnng we found the land in view, graduallv 
 nearmg Long Island. I ga.ed long and inte„°t ly o„ it 
 more m retereuce to it, early discoverers than to the 
 
 t oni the shore, trees predominating,-on an eminence 
 « ood a mansion, surrounded by the" forest, haZ h" o 
 very much the appearance of a gentlem'an's pa* t 
 
 thecabm,to sign, m conjunction with my fellow-nas 
 sengers a, etter complimenting the captain on his a" 
 us h,s fine sh,p, gentlemanly bearing, and so on 
 
 merited '"' "'""""''' "'"^ ''™'-^ ^»^^ "*' ''^ '^-"^ 
 A collection was afterwards made for the steward an.l 
 
 stewardess consisting of a sovereign to each, from t le 
 
 respective heads of families. 
 'vVe were, with other large vessels, steering for New 
 
 i ork harbour, when a steamer was seen bearing down 
 
 to wllr T\ "' "'-"" ""^ ""' '™S ''^ft - doubt as 
 to which-tor she was soon alongside ; when two gentle- 
 men came on board, greeting affectionately the cloth 
 .merchant and his family: one of them I observed to be 
 a man oi colour; they dined with us. In the mean 
 t.me our captain having entered into an arrangement 
 for tlie purpose, the .steamer being made a fixture 1^ 
 eide ot our vessel by means of ropes, we were rapidly 
 
 'f 
 'i 
 
TO THE UNITED STAT..S. j ^ 
 
 Z'f'Z^l^' *' ^^' ""''"'^ ^^''^ Of anchorage prior to 
 the visit of the custom-house officers. *" ^ 
 
 The gentleman of colour dinino- wJfli no 7i 
 
 the other already o„ ^o.^^'ulV^t^Zuf.: 
 cited DO surprise in me at the time 1 1,.,™ -i' 
 prejudices on that score; b„t;;rafter ^a Z fi^": 
 how completely coloured people are excluded tZl^ 
 socety of the white popitL throu^wlheZifn"' 
 rf appeared to me .son.ewhat strange, and I relttrT 
 had not asked some explanation at the time ^ 
 
 After some delay, the custom-house officers cime „„ 
 board and passed onr luggage with little t o™ le wU^h 
 was th.„ placed m the steamer, into which we UhZ^ 
 takmg leave of our steerage friends, who gav: TZ'e 
 
 By thistnne it was f^-rovvino- Infn i^r j. 
 forNowYnrK .. ,. ' «^^^^^"g ^^^t^. W Steamed rapidly 
 
 \^'t,ba?:G, 1 at last succeeded in ^ettinp- If n^«, j 
 * e City Hotel, in the Broadw^; af lato n;!," 
 clock, much exhausted ; here, howeve ou; tr^M 
 c«ised,-we found ourselves in good q.mrters .h '' 
 the evening of the 3d of An,T„.t • ?"""^'^- ""« was 
 
 elapsed sin^e we enltdS^ "" """"' """"^ 
 
u 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OP A VISIT 
 
 r 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 cuiroMitrs t^h'rr;?^ *"^' ^-'- 
 
 houses, it sy^onli CZZt n i, j'tlntt ' 'T' 'T 
 custom, more or less in n -y , "*''" "'^ 
 
 Europe, E„g.a„a ex^^t,:^ aU o^ Ssnot f^ ■ "f 
 
 agreeaUe and ac,ra~ol:';^;;r "''''''' "»"' 
 
 then considered a boarder, and charged ,T ^ ' f 
 at the rate of two dollars «r 4 T^ i "'"■ ™''") 
 «tay a week, two dollar a,t in ^^ ^"' ''"'"• "' y"" 
 This covers Leals liVhts 7, , """ "^' ''™P1'«''. 
 wines, &c. S\rf nf '"'"'''"'^<-'' everything but 
 
 paid ^uj^c^cz;::^^:^ ^"^^^^ r 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 29 
 
 .„i'r*-f ^'"':'''' /°" "^ ''■"'l"''^*'^'! '0 b" punctual • but 
 some at, ude is allowed for breakfast, when each Ltv 
 or mdivjdual, drops in from time to time. Fafcn J ^ 
 we had been over night, our appeara„e. was none of tl c 
 earhest; we found only two people in the brea 1 
 room, a young newly-married couple from Nm- fcam 
 hna, as we afterwards learnt ; long rows of e,™ v nktl 
 tea-cups, &e., indicating the nu^nbers ^H^^: 
 
 t us ; Its population was estimate,! at LhZ^T u 
 about 500,000, but it is increasing so ran dlv t.^ ! ,K 
 -be no criterion Of what .tm-a^rrt'';:!:!;': 
 
 Having soon despatched our meal we .oil- j . 
 with great curiosity to take a sur "vlf Z to ™ ft 
 getting my letters however at the ZJ ffi ' I 
 coming by the mail steame!: htl 'ptS f"' ''''"''' 
 
 We walked from our hotel info Pir^o i 
 oipal street, which runs ^1^1. Xftf' TT 
 eent™ of the city for two miles and f ha, Tl u 
 
 wide, ast^ nanTe'i^Xr',? "^^^ --^ ^^''^d; it is 
 '" imphes, witn every convenience for 
 
.20 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 urn 
 
 with these' e"cep ions t, ''It eT ''"''*' '"'"^« ' »"■' 
 and mostly bnilt of red brick ^ "' ""™"' '=^'"'''^J' 
 
 cieyHan,t-on,,eTcl-:,etaVbor':^-^tb':r': 
 
 buildings m the United States • it V i ■ ""'* 
 
 n.ace, or ..ariCike enclo»„!:!::iVut*the efnUVr 
 «a.v, and consists of a main buildin " ,v7t? • '^' 
 
 inctedwith columns andJZ^l^' wtngs orna- 
 bein? of white nnrbl ^ "'"-'''' "^" *™"' ■■""! ends 
 
 and basaniirg' ffe ''Z7T' '' '"""^'''' 
 Council Hall are ortnm^nf /'^^^o^'^fior's room and 
 
 mostly of bviCrr ' " 1 r* """" ""^ P''^*'-''iH 
 the chair u^f "y Gc^," a Wa^ "T' '''"f ''"'^^''' ^'^» 
 of the tirst Congr«.s t alo : "' ""'" ^^'^■^'''»' 
 anJ other public" ffie'e. alTol ^r T *'" """' «""■'' 
 '«r a trifling fee to the keept" "''"'' "^ ^^''^^ ^'-"" 
 
 aiatiMS.rL:^:Sd\";;5ri!"'-*"- 
 i-7we^i::.e^:;i:^ 
 
 ^nteri,; .iti: t a 1° rf^ "" T"''^ ■» ««> 
 to bo an elog.„t oiroZr;; ^ ttT^l't^^r b'^^ 
 
 taste"^^ the only tbtl' 1 "'''* ^''"^""'"' '» ^^ » good 
 
 -g i. that fsho2 oVZt" r " ""'^ -^ ''"*'''- 
 seen to advanta.-e ^ "** *''™ " «"«<" be 
 
 boefretX iS' rt'; ^' "t" ^T' ^'^'^^ ■ '' -1 
 by fire; profiti g ' y v^i '^ ^3°^ T">- "-'-^-1 
 
 fire-pi-ooK and is siid tlT;.. , ' " " eonstructed 
 I , is said to be the largest and most costly 
 
TO TITE UNITED STATES. »i 
 
 edifice i„ the city; it is built of dark-blue granite : the 
 front entrance ,« through a portico of eighteen massive 
 and beaut,t„lly wrought Ionic columns ; the rotunda of 
 large diameter surmounted by a dome supportod by eight 
 Cormtluan coh.mns of Italian luarble, and resembli°„g, 
 in m far as i is roofed, more the Bourse of Paris than 
 our open Exchange in London. ' 
 
 Sight-seeing is frequently found to be a fatignia- 
 affair, aggravatedm our case by the close, oven-like heal 
 
 iLtrJhT .' T""' "'™°^' "nsuprortablo after 
 
 e fresh breezes of the Atlantic ; we were glad to seek 
 the privacy of our hotel. 
 
 t„ TL' r''f ""^ •'-'™'"" '"'■<' '"^ *'"' United States 
 to the female sex, is generally acknowledged, and de- 
 servedly praised; the arrangement at the hotels isTn 
 accordance with it. We found an eating-saloon and 
 dmwi„g.,room set apart for the ladies, tireir relations 
 and friends, the hour of dinner being three o'^ocl 
 
 trnvdle,:? :T'' "''"'" "' '-S- P^Portion t; 
 
 To the former of these I was admitted in right of mv 
 daughters ; we sat down, on the summons of alZ 
 gong, about a hundred, at two long t.blcs, to a dinner 
 of great profu,sion, well served, without coi fusion t"om 
 the number and proper distribution of the wX'r "^ 
 dessert followed, the whole taking up some time, Mi;ch 
 of his was thrown away upon me, who never due so 
 well as upon one dish ; to-day, in particular, mv stomajh 
 
 of w?„e t;'^ .f r "'™ \" *'.'™ ""•«^ '-. " bottle 
 ""^ """^ "'"•■". generally champagne, being th» 
 
HH 
 
 22 
 
 RtVOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 winesfobegenerallvdot,.?]! "^ ^ *'""'<' 'he 
 
 t-o and. h'alS';;'! :K!•P-^*'i■'twoo^ 
 
 as a dinner port at a do larind a ha^ .67'."^ T'"'" 
 
 J;^ .eia.tu. once, and JIM „/;:: 
 
 ^^:^:^::^z^:^^'\ -h o. each 
 
 Bill of Fare during my Itt 'tT^'pt' 'tt^^" '■'^^^' « 
 ."■ay «ot be «ni„tL.tin.To * P„ .'< "'1' "'''"'' 
 
 ■mpreesionprobably will be tl,7t., 'i' T'^'''^ ">« 
 well :_ •* "^ ""' "'ese Republicans live 
 
 CITY HOTEL, NEW YORK. 
 
 First Course. 
 
 TABLE D'HOTE. 
 
 SOUP. ^^''°-^^' -l"^"-^' a 1847. 
 f'otuffe (t fa Julienne. 
 
 foiled Fresh Salmon," Lobster Sauce 
 Boiled Turkeys, Oyster Sauce. 
 
 " J"™P^^«^»^dBeof and Cabbage 
 >r bugar cured Ham. 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 ..• Beef Tongues. 
 Stkwed KmNEvs. with W,^E. 
 Mac.hom, with P^kmksax Chkesk 
 
 t^WEElniiEAM, WITH SoFlREL 
 B.U,„.E,> C„,CKENS, WITH BRE^n. 
 >SteWED DfCKH. WITH OUVE.,. 
 STEWEn PiOEONS. WITH MuSHKOOM. 
 
 '^'"'^^^'^^^^--P--.w„.HT..urs;.cE. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 23 
 
 Squash. 
 Second Coarse. 
 
 entrt5es. 
 Poitrine de Mouton, grilK^, a la sauce tomate. 
 Fricandeau, h la sauce tomate. 
 Canard, braize, aux navets. 
 Tete de Veau, a la sauce tomate. 
 fluUres a lapoulette. 
 CCddettes de Mouton, cnpapilotte. 
 Pate's de Potdet. 
 
 Poitrine de Veau, aux champignons. 
 Blanqwitte de Veau, au currie. 
 Salmis de Gihier. 
 Bifstek am huitres. 
 
 Roast Tame Geese, apple sauce. 
 Young Chickens. 
 Tame Ducks. 
 Sirloin of Beef. 
 Lamb, mint sauce. 
 Veal. 
 
 Pig, pickle sauce. 
 Gkeen Cokn. Tomatoes. 
 
 Third Course. 
 
 Pastry. 
 Vanilla Ice Cream. 
 Whortleberry Pies. 
 Green Apple Pies. 
 
 Beans. 
 
 GAME. 
 
 Roast Yellow-leg Snipe, extra fine. 
 
 Fourth Course. 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 Almonds. Blackberries. 
 
 Watermelons. 
 
 Raisins. 
 
 Dm.EK ON S^BATs, Ladies Ordinary, at 2 ; Gentlemen's, at 2A o^dock 
 All Meals or Refreshments sent to rooms will be cha;ged eitra^ 
 
 Each Waiter u provided with Wine Card, and Pencil. 
 FIlliNCH WINES. 
 
 Table Claret, .. . ^Jp- 
 
 St. Julien, ... <> 75 
 
 Haut Brion," ^ '^^ 
 
 Branc Mouton, J "'^ 
 
 Tjeoville, ^ ^0 
 
 Iiatour 1 "^ 
 
 1 50 
 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 
 n. c. 
 
 Chateau Longueville, 2 00 
 
 ^*fi'te, .■..■..'.■.■; 2 00 
 
 do 2 50 
 
 Marjiaux (1834), Barton^ 
 
 Ouesticr, & Co., 300 
 
24 
 
 III I !l 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 WIIITJ5 WINES. 
 
 ChabUg, .. "• "• 
 
 Sautornc, j <'" 
 
 Sauterue, Chflto;,u bT,lu;;„; ibbV, 2 00 
 
 ' 7J 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 D. C. 
 
 BURGUNDr & COTE DOR WINES. 
 Volney, . 
 
 I'omard, .' ^ ^^ 
 
 t'hamborton'.'.' I ^^ 
 
 «ios De vouKcot. ■;;:::;; | f^f. 
 
 Hermitage, Rod, | <'« 
 
 ^o Wliite •••■•• tZ 
 
 Leocnck, Harris, & bo".; iniporVcd in 
 
 1824,* 
 
 CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Rufnart „ ,,, 
 
 Napoleon. . 2 00 
 
 Due do Montobello', Vweet, ". | no 
 
 Star, :.::.; 200 
 
 Heidsieck, ^ '^^ 
 
 Tardrix Eye ^ ^" 
 
 Urape, ...'..V;; 2 00 
 
 RHENISH WINES. 
 
 NewtoD, Gordon. & Co.'» Occidental 
 
 v"yat'o to India and old «li.n im- 
 ^ ported in 1830,* ,. " „ -^ 
 
 Howard. Mar.1,. &Co '« Brig C^Ium- 
 bia. imported 1830.*.... *' „ .„ 
 
 Tn IgS;*"''""' "•'* ^'"'" '"'P°««^ 
 
 3 00 
 "> the l,,u. W ,„. t;„„„„_ 0, s,„i,„„ai,. 
 
 March & Benson, , „„ 
 
 Mary Elizabeth, ... ^ "^ 
 
 Reserve. . . ^ "'' 
 
 Black Cork, amrE^LtlndiiR;^ Seal ^^ 
 
 itock) ''"''""'• '"*" "'■ °"'" "'»* 
 Brahmiii. 3 50 
 
 ^^'^,[^;|"''^'^^i"»''pV815,"c;,nfisca'ted 
 
 1828; imp. IS.W.and br-ttled If. 38 
 Geori;o Richard. 30 years old, from 
 
 ctSy. .''° '^'''" '^''""'"'^"^'' 
 Sears-s Very Old, 'iinporiJd'by Mr' 
 Scars in Boston ; put in he,l 
 J-hns,nl823; drawn off in other 
 l>oj()hns in 18.35; 30 
 
 3 50 
 
 4 OO 
 
 years old; 
 
 Leibfraumilcb, , 
 
 £?oSn";r''. .••■'• • •■' • • • • • • ■ • • • 2 00 I nock of Oommodor; CtouTce;::' 
 
 KolSS ••••••••••■•--::;: 2 £ I "i::!±:^l!^^''''i'^''^^ * co.;^m. 
 
 -a 00 
 
 2 50 
 
 3 00 
 3 00 
 
 5 CO 
 
 Steinberger, Cabinet 1811 
 
 Johannisberger, 181 1 ' 
 
 „ , »»■ 1783,' '.''.'.'.'..' ■•■ 
 
 nudeshoimer 1 802, from the Cahinei 
 Kin'of «' *!''*™"i<-'n Joseph. 
 yueen Dowager in 1830 
 
 ,, ,^"- 1718, 
 
 taatio Johannisberger, 1822, ...."* 
 
 PORT WINE. 
 
 Table Port 
 
 Regina us scnV to' London 'fVr" the 
 
 use of the Royal Family 
 Victorta _ 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 March & Benson, 
 
 Newton, Gordon,' & Co 
 
 ''tTior;^^'''''''0''lI'-donpar: 
 
 .., ...Miiiiu, itiarcn, & Co.; im- 
 ported m 1817, and bottled in 1827- 
 stock of a private gentleman. 
 
 ntleman 5 oo 
 
 3 50 
 5 00 
 5 00 
 
 1 50 
 
 00 
 00 
 
 ticular, X. C. 
 
 Pa,yne & Co. very dry and old when 
 
 imported m 1831,* , 
 
 Blackburn & Co., import'e'd'i'ii 1835* 
 
 2 00 
 
 00 
 2 50 
 
 SHERRY. 
 
 Pale Old, , „' 
 
 Brown, , . ^ °'' 
 
 oSdSher^!';:^'^""'"-""----"- |S 
 Star, 2 00 
 
 i'Wrin,":;;:;: i "^ 
 
 Poniard's Competit'i'o'n' ■■.".■ f J!? 
 
 Amontillado, .. ' 2 00 
 
 IHiff. Gordon. & 60.; •■.■.•.: |^ 
 
 Cabinet, Pale, ^ ^* 
 
 Brown Sherry, impo'r'tcd in i8.30,'iho 
 
 c|Stai!'?.^";«~.;;;33oo 
 
 Harmony, . ' ^ *'0 
 
 Pale, imported 'i'nY8.3'o':"fr"om*ih; ^ "* 
 
 Vp'r« "^'"^ '""^ ^'^- Gaston..: 3 00 
 
 Veiy Superior Old, vintage 1789, of " 
 
 Ch.nn"/'' ''^ '^^ ''^'^ Commodore 
 t^naimcey k na 
 
 Do. remarkably 'fli',;; Vinin'go V/s's ^ 
 
 of the same stock as above. ' 5 o(j 
 
 N,B.~6.ntlmen calling for u,ne. ..ithont ,es;,.aU.g ,,, ft,,^ ^ ^,,,.^ ... . 
 »m;.d wm Madeira at 2 dollars ^bottU 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 25 
 
 'EIRA. 
 
 ., , ». c. 
 
 >o. s Occidental, 
 id old when im- 
 
 ••,•;,••. 2 50 
 
 J sBngColuiii- 
 
 '*•••• 2 50 
 
 wliea imported 
 
 ••; 3 OO 
 
 0., imported in 
 
 3 00 
 
 all Imported 11 ml bottleii 
 Ouiitoij.ot tiititaiiimli. 
 
 3 OO 
 
 3 00 
 
 ;■••••• 3 00 
 
 India Red Seal 
 irt of our old 
 
 3 50 
 
 •; 3 50 
 
 5, confiscnted 
 >n Miguel, in 
 I bf-ttlod U38, 3 50 
 ars old, from 
 3 Commodore 
 
 4 00 
 
 orted by Mr. 
 lut in Denii- 
 1 off in other 
 '> years old; 
 Chauncey,.. 5 00 
 :h, & Co.; im- 
 ittlc'dinl827: 
 tieman 5 OO 
 
 lY. 
 
 • 1 50 
 
 1 50 
 
 2 00 
 
 2 OO 
 
 2 00 
 
 2 00 
 
 2 00 
 
 2 ao 
 
 • • • 2 00 
 
 y fine & old, 3 00 
 3 00 
 
 .••• 3 00 
 
 m 1830, the 
 
 fasten, . . 3 00 
 
 3 00 
 
 3 00 
 
 • • • 3 00 
 
 from the 
 
 Jaston,.... 3 oo 
 Re 1 789, of 
 'ommodore 
 
 5 0« 
 
 it'igo 1786, 
 
 ^Te. 5 00 
 
 prtce, will bt 
 
 Before I leave the dinner-table, I may observe that 
 the waiters at the hotels are generally either coloured 
 people or Irish ; in our case tliey were Irish, whose well- 
 fed and contented condition contrasted agreeably with 
 their destitution at home. 
 
 On retiring to the drawing-room, my friend of the 
 morning, from North Carolina, with whom I had ex- 
 changed a word or two, invited me to accompany him 
 to the bar, to smoke a cigar— his custom, he said, after 
 dinner. To this I readily assented ; descending with 
 him to a room on the en trance -floor, paved with alter- 
 nate slabs of white and blue marble, in wliich the bar- 
 keeper and his assistants were serving cigars and brandy 
 and water to numerous applicants, who paid for it on 
 the spot,— a decanter of whatever spirits may be asked 
 for being placed before the applicant, wlio heli)s him- 
 self, filling up from a large vessel of water, cooled with 
 ice. 
 
 On going down again after tea to seek out the reading- 
 room, I found it to be one of a suite on the entrance-floo*r, 
 the numerous papers filed in succession on a wooden 
 ledge extending round it; the papers of the day on a 
 table in the, middle, with much conipany. 
 
 I sat , -ntleraan with whom I entered into 
 
 conversation >und him a great enthusiast about his 
 
 country, or aci country ; for I was doubtful in which 
 
 to class him. The scene became diversified by two 
 squaws coming in to sell their Indian wares : one was 
 distmctly copper-coloured ; the other wore a man's hat 
 after the manner of the Welsh. 
 
 While I am on the subject of hotels, I may as well 
 mention that they form a little community within them- 
 selves, being provided with hot and cold baths, a barber's 
 shop, &c. Every separate floor, consisting of numerous 
 
2C 
 
 RKCOLLECriONS OF A VISIT 
 
 apartments, is lighted .,p the whole ni-^ht and « „.». ., 
 ^et m each to guard against fire ° ' * ""'"'' 
 
 andUis„„deJoTtotT;SLS 
 
 -irjrmr™:i „7; Sii-t'-r"^-" -^ 
 
 have the extraordinary fao, J .^iSr''; "•■^! ^'"'' 'o 
 tomers, and of bein" M^7'\u '™f '=<"■"« >•>« ens- 
 
 I happened to take up the Directory ne^tmornin. 
 residence. We found S f ' "^ ^'^^" *^ ^>*« 
 
 out as a joul ylu h?"'' "'>T' ""^'"'"^ ^'"'^ 
 self- h„ ;!. n ^ , ' ''^ ""*" ""'' "" '»'sin«!SS for him- 
 
 thingt ti: a^^td' 'r^' "« t' r'' '"^ ^^ --- 
 
 and repeatedly wS """'^ '"'"''' "'* ^"'h, 
 
 The next day or two we spent in making ourselves 
 
TO THE IJNITRD STATES. 
 
 157 
 
 more ucqiiainted with the town, our eveninj? wnlk bein^ 
 the b.'ittcry, a promGiiade-groiiiul in the form of a senii- 
 cirde, planted with trccf^, and commanding a fmo view 
 of the basin and surrounding shores— a favourite resort 
 of the town's-peojde. 
 
 Castle Garden, connected with tJiis promenade by a 
 bridge, is in war-time probably a fortification ; at pre- 
 sent it is converted into a sununer theatre of great size, 
 for musical pieces and ballets, surrounded by outer gal- 
 leries, on which you can promenade between the acts, 
 enjoying the prospect and sea breeze. To this I took 
 the girls; the regular theatres probably not being open, 
 or, if so, the heat too great to admit of our goin*' to 
 them with any comfort. " 
 
 On Simday tlie 8th August, we went to Trinity 
 Church (the St. Paul's of :New York), a fine building, 
 in the Gothic style, with no galleries to disturb the 
 symmetry and fine proportions of the interior: the win- 
 dows are of painted glass of the best description; it is 
 built externally and internally of brown sandstone. 
 
 The service was Episcopal, the President of the 
 United States being substituted in the liturgy for our 
 gracious Queen. The prayers were read with propriety 
 and a good sermon, well delivered, followed. '. 
 
 On inspecting the town more closely, I observed 
 many of the better houses of the merchants and others 
 to be of an elegant exterior, and, as well as part of the 
 Broadway, to be built of brown sandstone. 
 
 The town itself stands partly on the island, or, more 
 properly speaking, peninsula of Manhattan, and partly 
 on Long Island, under the name of Brooklyn, a narrow 
 strait or harbour dividing the two, over which ferries 
 are crossing at all hours of the day, both sides being 
 Imed with wharves and shipping, giving the whole I 
 
» 
 
 nKCOrLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 I hnd provided myself vvitl. a letter of nnvlit fi. 
 I-ndo„ bankers, Mesa,., Co„tts & C , adl- fl Z^.'"" 
 several correspondents on ,ny line of rol, ' „ t^ch o^ 
 
 «K on .ns,,ec ,ng it, readily gave ,ne the sum I "van ed' 
 
 cliange. This plan I would strongly recommend tn 
 ravellersm general from Europe to tlfe UnTd State 
 
 you at one time, while there will be no difficultv i„ 
 i:mZ ::"''■'' °" ^^'■'^^""=" ^*' wlierever;"^ 
 
tt all hours of 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 29 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 )r is felt to be 
 
 i 
 
 AMERICAN STI:AM-II()AT>? — IllDSON ItlVFIl. 
 
 TiiK aiHcovciy of the MtcMm-ongine, antl of its loco- 
 motive power, as applicable to navi-„tion and to rail- 
 roads, IS tlie great new feature of our dav ; the lesult 
 as It IS to affect the future state of the world in o-eucral' 
 and of our country in [)articular, is us vet hid" in the' 
 womb of tin.e. As they have been imparted to us 
 without violence or injustice to .ny one, let us hope that 
 they can l)e only productive of unmixed jrood. 
 _ Jn no case are they calculated to be more useful than 
 in developing the va::t resources of the United Htate^ 
 trom their numerous navioable rivers, fme lakes and' 
 pat mternalconmmnication; nor have its inhabitants 
 been slow to avail themselves of their advanta.ves 
 
 Any one arriving in America from Europe^ must be 
 much struck by the great difference in form and con- 
 Ntruction between their steamers and ours. 
 
 Having long routes on rivers not exposed to hi^h 
 waves, and sheltered, in geneml, by the banks fro'n 
 heavy gales the Americans have not found it neces- 
 '^ary to build their steamers for inland navigation, on a 
 sea-gomg model. * 
 
 Tiiey are generally of large size, with the triple object 
 ol cariymg numerous passengers, a cargo, and the neces- 
 sary tuel ; this last article being generally of wood and 
 
30 
 
 BECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 they n,ay bo said to ^Ct^:i:ZT.:: ^"T'"' 
 appearance i,,, as is to be ex^MV ' 'l ""^'"""^ 
 «ome. The manner of their com 1 ^^'^ T^ ""'"''^■"- 
 !•* very much as follows -!! ™°**'"^'»" ""d fitting up 
 
 strledlt^t'ltistZ', T1 '°" *"•" '-^ «-' - 
 fiee is er ctod wide m f J n?'""'"- ^<'°"^» «'•"- 
 side, the sides be^l s "L b .''■^ '™"^ ^''' <"> ^«»h 
 l'»»>s the wh Te^lt fTb .''^ ™'-' ^'™S '™«««' 
 -.•ve to support tiJ^^^ ,elt '",^1;;:'?. ^^''''f »'- 
 m the body of the hill T r ^^'^<^^ng-''^aIoon is 
 
 at the stern', is Iroed' ,« , IT 't f ''^fl^'''^ '^""' 
 gantly furnished wifli 1.,%! ^'^^o°">— it is large, elo- 
 
 doors,\eid sSd t "f t:;::?"':'' °"'"-'^ ^""'■"=- 
 
 slceping-berths are Tth , ^ •'*"'™gers. Their 
 
 yond ; "then fol, ;' the t' n ', ""' " '"''''"''^'^ ''- 
 
 The forward part^'l^S CZ^^'::T7' '"'■ 
 rangers ; the intermprl.'of. f^reeia,ge or deck pas- 
 
 -Kf ladies- si nltdT.^'r ■",*''' ^'^<"'«« 
 machinery of the en-nne "'-^''andise and the 
 
 a.« sL:„tbins%::ii: ^:l tx^^^^^^^^ 
 
 these cabins afrnj,, o,.« i , "t^rcns, outside 
 
 tVo. stern to ^:^Z.:r:X^^Z2Sr''"' 
 the sleep.ng-berths havin/^ two door? on?! ''' 
 
 the saloon, the other to the veandah' '"""' """ 
 
 couches, tables, ^.^d^::i!::!^ ^^^^^ 
 
'r dep6ts, as the 
 or is concerned 
 : their outward 
 vy and cumber- 
 and fitting up 
 
 fll is first con- 
 !d, wooden edi- 
 le feet on each 
 strong trussed 
 rid which also 
 ating-saloon is 
 ^ove the hull, 
 it is large, ele- 
 glass folding- 
 ngers. Tlieii- 
 verandah he- 
 ro -rooms, &c. 
 or deck pas- 
 the steerage 
 ii«e and the 
 
 n, extending 
 ption of two 
 ssengers who 
 saloon are 
 tlis; outside 
 ', extending 
 ddle-boxes ; 
 pening into 
 
 , orna- 
 
 nent 
 
 ', beautiful 
 
 some vase. 
 
 § TO THE UNITED STATES. 31 
 
 I containing iced-water for the public convenience 
 I About the middle of this room, the piston-rod and 
 I cmnk-shaffc of the engine pass up ; they are boxed in 
 , with wooden partitions, handsomely painted, and orna- 
 I merited with looking-glasses-a free passage of some 
 I width being allowed on each side. 
 
 The machinery consists of one large single-beam 
 engine, on the low-pressure condensing principle, havirio- 
 two boilers, placed, one on each side of the lower declf 
 •n front of the paddle-box ; on the lower deck also the 
 cylmder and main part of the machinery are placed 
 ihe piston-rod is of great length, and gives motion to a 
 beam towering above the roof of the upper cabin ; the 
 paddle-wheels are very large, and act as fly-wheels to 
 overcome the dead points of the single engine : on the 
 western rivers, however, as will be hereafter mentioned 
 high-pressure engines of a totally different construction 
 are used. 
 
 A room is erected on the roof of the upper cabin, at 
 the bow of the vessel, where the steering-wheel is placed 
 and the pilot stationed ; communication is held from 
 this room with the engineers below, very cleverly bv 
 means of bells. *^' -^ 
 
 A number of these splendid steamers ply on the 
 Hudson, betueen New York, Albany, and the inter- 
 mediate places both night and day, carrying on a great 
 trafhc in goods and passengers. 
 
 Strong competition had brought down the fares for 
 the whole distance, from a reasonable sum to one dollar 
 -<J new opposition was announced to start for half a 
 (ioJ ar, and to this steamer we were driven at an 
 
 Auglist '' '" *^'' '"""'"'"^ '^' ^"''^^>^ ^^'^ lOt'^ 
 
 The river Hudson i« eoiri f« u^ ^u^ -du-- n , 
 
 -" -'^^'-^ t^ oe vHc iwnue 01 America 
 
32 
 
 m 
 
 Hill 
 
 III 
 
 I i 
 
 lift' 
 
 Mfi 
 
 KECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 M 
 
 on either side we,e muueroM tL T ' """S"' 
 
 painted white, «torKli ^S . mTnv n^T' "'"'' 
 rounded l)y verandahs the nltf ^^ """" '""■- 
 
 ferent from anvH fht Wh '™' "'""°' '""' '^'f" 
 u aiij uiing 1 iiad beeil accustomed to 
 
 thirty-three miles fro Ne^^^f . t^' ", ^^ ^^-^ 
 object in which is ti,P Sf ,, tj • ' '"''■'' Prownent 
 
 messeil maiWe, qnarned and erected 1>^ ti,„ • " 
 It consists of a main buiMinn- of t ^r J'"""""'* 
 front and rear are vari!" wSip: 11^"™^ ' ^'' 
 
 wc:sx:he';:^:ors:eiirS:eifT 
 
 also a silver and copper mine ° '" '''""''>' 
 
 turesque. ° ^^^ ^'^^^^^ and Pic- 
 
 At fiftj-two miles from :N^evv Yort wn .. ^ ttt 
 
 ^^int,ro™mtica,,ysit„ated,a«C:Tn^ 
 
 as a i)ost ot importance in the revnintmn. -^"S""'d 
 
 posed to be surrendered into our hands bvZr'' ?"" 
 
 J:rc^rt:ri:rzs^-';5-^ 
 
 appomtments are given by the general Gove^nient Tf 
 
33ucb, nor was I 
 
 rernmenfc of 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 33 
 
 the United States, and the cadets are boarded and edu- 
 cated at its expense. The services of these officers are 
 said to have been ibund very efficient in the Mexican 
 war ; there are also some of those young men educated 
 at this school, wlio are now practising as distinguished 
 civil engineers. 
 
 As we passed, we saw these young gentlemen at field- 
 practice, at a mark. 
 
 _ There is here a very good hotel for the accommoda- 
 tion of visitc^rs, much resorted to duiing tiie summer 
 season, and where it is said to be well worth while to 
 pass a day or two. 
 
 Continuing our route through a variety of fine scenery 
 unti the day being far advanced, we came opposite the 
 Catskill mountain ; it is about twelve miles distant from 
 a village of the same name, on the bank of the river 
 and is by far the finest object on the route, in whatever 
 direction it is viewed. Travellers generally land here 
 and find accommodation at the Mountain House, a spa- 
 cious hotel on the eastern verge of a table rock, within a 
 
 7onnn f "" r"'^"'"" ' '^ '' '''''"^ *^ ^^ ^^^^'^^^ed upwards 
 o 2000 feet above the level of the river, which gives to 
 the atmosphere a most delightful coolness. I take blame 
 to myself for not having landed here ; as it was, we ran 
 rapidly past, the view of it in every position the windiiu^ 
 o. the river placed it in, being agreeable and lefreshii;^ 
 to the eye. '^ 
 
 Having been duly snmi oned at the proper season 
 to our three meals, each charged half a dollar (2s. Id ) 
 at which I observed that no one sat down until the ladies 
 and their riends were seated; towards evening we 
 reached Albany, having travelled all this distance 
 (l4o miles), at no greater expense than if we had re- 
 
 mained at our hotel in New York 
 
 VIZ. two dollar 
 
 s Cacli. 
 
34 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 have enhanced it wl Tl ^^ '^ '^ ^"^^^'^^ ^«"'^ 
 
 led to expect much, but it fell farlrt fthe 'c^i^" 
 fomed that it was the best hotel in'the tfwl!.' ' """ 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 35 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 ALBANY— PUBLIC BUILDINGS-NEW CEMETERY— CAIIOKS FALLS- 
 ARSENAL— PllESBYTERIAN CHURCH- AMERICAN RAILWAYS. 
 
 Albany, tlie cipital of the iState of New York is 
 situated on the Hudson, 145 miles north of New York 
 by the river, the population probably about 40,000 — 
 small compared with the great commercial emporium 'we 
 had left, but nevertheless of importance. Here the 
 legislature assembles, the courts of justice sit ; and it is 
 of course the head-quarters for the transaction of all 
 public business connected with the State in its indivi- 
 dual capacity. 
 
 The city rises somewhat abruptly from the river to a 
 considerable elevation, the town improving in proportion 
 as It ascends, tlie public buildings being there • in whi-h 
 neighbourhood we found our hotel very well situr.ted 
 torming part of a square, enclosing a public promenade ' 
 the ladies drawing-room large in its proportions and well 
 turmshed ; our other accommodations to our mind 
 
 The Americans rise earlier than we do at home com- 
 mence business earlier, and are more primitive in the 
 hours of their meals ; this is no doubt in part influenced 
 by their climate,-the mornings being dry and cool, the 
 heat of the day calling for repose. Three o'clock sum- 
 moned us to dinner, where we found a rather lar^e 
 party, some of whom were merchants, and nt,hpr« f,l. 
 
S6 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 
 nfternoon wa. fine, to ,ive th gir ^ , !!!^"::, j^" 
 to see the environs of the tow„ra. ,- ZaLurT 
 ne. Cemetery in its neighbo.'.rhoo,, ^,^7 ' ' tt 
 manner now .-o fashionable i„ En'rope (which the 
 Amencans have not been slow to imifat'e). Wefouti 
 the temete.y m .,„estion emboso.ned in tree, on « 
 mther steep undulating groun.l, extensive, and lid "ut 
 
 ^t'-wereasyetblXtaritrCr;^: 
 
 I'he gentleman to whom we owed this iioUfr. aff« *• 
 was a iawyer, practising in the courts' ^ t' to^t 
 iimily being absent at a watering- iilace be h;Atl' . ! 
 oo„j.„ie„t to give up house-lceepin'gt'th: t^ " 
 
 He ha-i visited Europe, reside<l both in London an,l 
 « Pans, had metEnghsh brother huvye,., one"f whot 
 
 «lri, ta^"";- ^'^-r'^.had printed hiniZS 
 copy 01 Ills diamatic woi-ks. His residpnpo .., t> • i. , 
 been at Meuriee's Hotel, then ir^hfClS'^ 
 
 horr^ll"^ ""'"'""• ''' "- curious t!w 
 how It hv\ liecome so exclusively the resort of ^T 
 
 counlryn,en, which he un.lerstood tobeof W !„!, "^ 
 I tolrt hin. that on the close of the wa ,1 "rntr^ett 
 ^■owd,ng ,n numbers to Paris, on their way took u« 
 then- abode at a hotel in Calais, kept by MonT Meurire 
 then probably the best in the towa. Oa'thi^ LuZ^ 
 
TO THE UXITKD STATES. 
 
 37 
 
 leave of liis guests, he wouiil ask wljother tliov 
 l)ationizecl any ijarticii]«i,r hotel in Paris ; he would then 
 give them the card of his cousin, the Menrice of Paris 
 The Paris Meurice, then residing in no very fashion'ahle 
 part of the town, had the good sense to adipt his hotel 
 to the wants and comforts of his new customers and so 
 prospered under their patronage, that he found it neces- 
 sary, from tune to time, to seek larger accommodation 
 and more fashionable quarters ; canying John Bull 
 whom he found to be no changeling, with him In 
 the meantime, fortunes were made, and the owners 
 changed— the i)restige of the name being kept up. 
 
 This gentleman was our cicerone ne.xt inornincr to 
 the public buildings, and such other objects in the tmvn 
 Itself as merit the notice of strangers. First, tlie capitol 
 occupied by the Legislature and State Courts-a large 
 aud fine building fronting our square. Next, the Town- 
 iiall_a splendid marble edifice, with a gilded dome • on 
 ascending the staircase of which, I was agreeably sur- 
 prised by a bust of my countryman. Sir Walter Scott 
 m a niche or bracket, on the wall. Afterwards we saw 
 the Stat^ Hall, also of white marble, containing the 
 public offices. In one or other of these buildings I was 
 shown charters granted to the State by the Protector 
 Charles II and James ii. The Protector's charter was 
 premised by a bust of Cromwell himself, in profile not 
 unlike other pictures and engravings I have seen of him 
 in England ; but representing him as younger and more 
 slender, a sharper outl-ne, with the head thrown back- 
 in a rather proud attitude. ' 
 To me mere sight-seeing is a wearisome affair ; but 
 there are the Merchants' E^ -hange, built of granite and 
 several other public buildings deserving notice, which 1 
 saw either then or at au(^ther time. 
 
38 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 Next day I ordered a carria"-e for fh^ PnU^ v u 
 the Mohawk River one nf ihf Vr ''''^ ^^"'' ^» 
 
 >oiiihood , offering the spare seat to my new friend hnf 
 business preventing \nm accepting it I Xe T 'fn 
 
 Sir- [747 -:: f .i:3.: 
 
 the mormng fine, and the road tolerably ^ood in oii^ 
 "'■ two places we found a toll unon it (Z "k / 
 
 . Hrms, neatly arrancSdTn 1 ^ * '"^^^^^ ^^ «™^» 
 
 the orow,t a'nd G e' 'o>, T "'•'"" r'"'"'^^' "'*'' 
 -Ptare, " 7th Oetober m7 " Onr!::;* ! '"*" f' '*^ 
 very civil, and seemed unlniing " aclt Zt-/" 
 gratuity I gave him at parting. '^ ^ *"''"'«^ 
 
 I" due time we reached the Cahoes Falls • nt ti • 
 ^^ '^f ^"'^' "--"^ -"fined be „.; ' /ofj btf 
 
 "XdiS'irtTrrr ? -^ ^^^'^ ^-'^ -^^ 
 
 At thi,, time tl vate . v J W • i ""' f ^'^""^ '«^'- 
 «t it« junction-wiHthe HudZ "' "^ ''"'^''^"'•' 
 
 1 
 
 "4 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 39 
 
 We reached our bo .el too late for the general dinner ; 
 being expected, however, one had been prepared ex- 
 pressly for us. 
 
 Our day had gone off pleasantly. Our New Orleans 
 friend, a young man of gentlemanly exterior, but pale 
 and thin, did his best to show his sense of our civility. 
 He told me, among other things, that his townspeople 
 being the factors for the enormous commerce of the 
 western waters, which finds its outlet through this only 
 channel, the profits of trade were necessarily large ; that 
 it was not uncommon for the heads of the gre^t houses 
 to retire in succession every few years with handsome 
 fortunes, but that matters were in some measure 
 balanced by the expensive mode of living, and the 
 baneful influence of the climate, which compelled all 
 who valued their health, and could afford it, to seek a 
 change at this season. The settlers of French descent 
 were not, he said, generally enterprising, although very 
 good citizens in other respects: that many of them 
 would be found vegetating on almost nothing, as they 
 are known sometimes to do at home, circumscribing 
 their wants to the little modicum they may have to 
 meet them. 
 
 On Sunday, the 15th August, we attended the morn- 
 ing service of the Presbyterian Church— a large, well- 
 aired, handsomely painted building— in which we' found 
 a genteel, well-conducted congregation, with— "tell it 
 not in Gath"~an organ. The service was respectably 
 conducted by a minister of gentlemanly appearance and 
 manners ; a good sermon followed, which seemed to 
 command the attention of his hearers. 
 
 On the evening of Monday, solicited by mv daughters, 
 we went to see the Viennoise Children, as they were 
 called— a company of German dancers (on a professional 
 
40 
 
 nECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ij 
 
 I'n fK« .. , "^ groups ; two sonjrs were smxr 
 
 in the course of the ovonirKr «Vvi i • * , ^'^^ ^^""g 
 tho free '" « ..in.// if™ Cohimbia, the land of 
 
 iiie ciis are long, each carahlo of cont'.inin,. fir* 
 I'asseiigers sitting at ti.ir ease- thn ™? °, '^ 
 
 "pou two tr„clc«: each imv Lrfo, , Xh Jf ''^'' 
 
 .acei„tHe.i,.erethTar:;r:SS^^ 
 
TO THE UNITED STATED. 
 
 41 
 
 and has a support for the hack, both stuflbtl with horse 
 hair. The hacks of each scat are made to turn over m 
 tliat whichever way the car (which is never turned' on 
 a turn-table) may be running, tlie scat can be made to 
 front the engine. At the end of each lar there is 
 generally a retiring room fitted up with every con- 
 venience, for the sole use of the ladies. 
 
 Down the space in the middle, the collector walk-s, 
 and from one car to another, taking tiie tickets, fares' 
 &c., while the train is in motion ; he acts also as a' 
 policeman, in case of disturbance— in this latter capa- 
 city, however, I have never seen his services required. 
 
 One car is generally set apart for the ^)wcr class of 
 emigrants, coloured people, and others; there being, 
 properly speaking, no first or second class, the other cars 
 being open to all comers of decent appearance, very 
 much after the manner of our omnibuses. Tiie lures arc 
 generally moderate. 
 
 In the cold weather, stoves are placed in the cars, 
 which the severity of the climate in winter renders 
 necessary ; while a passenger can stand erect with hia 
 iiat on, and look alout him. 
 
 The engineer and stoker are protected from the sun, 
 wiad, and rain, by a small covered wooden house over 
 the platform of the engine. The engine is furnished 
 with a large bell, which is rung when approaching a 
 station, crossing a road, &c., in addition to the ste°am 
 wliistle. The fuel generally used is wood. Accidents 
 are rarer than might be expected. 
 
 The great object of the railroad where we now were 
 was to connect the maritime towns on the east coast with 
 the western waters and the towns connected with them 
 which it now does, I imagine, very effectually, forking 
 off for the purpose in different directions. At'this time, 
 
42 
 
 UEC0LLECTI0N8 OF A VIHIT 
 
 Takins this ,„il,,,a,l, m I have said, at Albany we 
 .•o,u.l,o,l the town of Troy, also on tho H.'ulson, abou^' six 
 ""lo" l"Kl.cT „,.. This town, abont the size of its mo e 
 a,,.stoorat,e neighbour, is said to bo more prosperous 
 Ilore the ra,lway branehosoffto Boston, and it is under: 
 
 tlio Jirie Canal terminating hero. 
 
 Tliis canal is laiye, and navigable for eraft of eonsider- 
 nble burthen, with track boats for the conveyance of 
 
 ol.jcct that the railway has more eflectually accotni.lished 
 .ts other terminus being at Buffalo, on like Eri , a its 
 name .mphes. As with us, the one is not found ti work 
 ."jnnously to the other. The traffic of the «mal "on- 
 «.s mg of barrels of flour, and other goods of a bull 
 na ure, not pressing for time, is said to be enormous ^ 
 
 with"Tl7 ■'') '^'''"^ ^'^ ^ """'^^'^' "S'"). ™ '^ level 
 
 M^f TT^ 'T'' ™ ^"""'"'"'l »"^ ^o»te near 
 he Mohawk R.ver, through a varied scenery of about 
 
 town 'on"'^ *" i^'^-f-'y. " comparatively ancien 
 town, on the south bonk of the Mohawk, at the com- 
 me>,ce,nent of the valley of that name, having been 
 settled hy the Dutch as early as the ye^ 1620: it™ 
 legularly laid out, and contains probably about 7000 
 .nbahtants Here the cars stopped for 'bout ilZ 
 minutes, which gave us time to look about us, and to 
 get seme refreshment. 
 
 Besuming our journey, we crossed the Mohawk River 
 and Erie Canal by a substantial bridge, between ei-^ht 
 and nine hundred feet long; then, skirling the bankTo 
 the Ballston Lake, we entered Ballston Spa, an old and 
 formerly celebrated watering-place, conLi^ing abou 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 48 
 
 Albany, we 
 n, about six 
 of its more 
 prosperous, 
 it is nnder- 
 l for trade, 
 
 3f consider- 
 veyance of 
 >r the same 
 omplishcd, 
 Erie, as its 
 nd to work 
 canal, con- 
 )f a bulky 
 »rmou8. 
 
 on a level 
 route near 
 ^ of about 
 ^v ancient 
 
 the corn- 
 icing been 
 >20: it is 
 out 7000 
 it twenty 
 IS, and to 
 
 ir)fK) inhabitants. It had now, however, lost its prestige 
 in favour of Saratoga ; its mineral waters are sJiid to 
 have lost their virtues ; in other words, it is no longer 
 fashionable. Seven miles further on (being thirty-eight 
 from Albany), we arrived at Saratoga springs. 
 
 I was pleased with the style of travelling in the cars. 
 It gave mo an opportunity of observing chaiacter in a 
 situation so new to me ; there were ladies, gentlemen, 
 fhildren, and humbler peo])lc present, while I saw nothing 
 at which the most fastidious could justly take offence. 
 I really felt much at my ease, and entered into conversa- 
 tion with my immediate neighbour, a gentleman in 
 business, from Boston, about to spend a holiday at the 
 springs, who responded willingly to my advances. 
 
 ■wk River 
 een eight 
 banks of 
 a old and 
 »g about 
 
44 
 
 KECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 
 m' 
 
 I 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SARATOGA SPRIXOS-nOTELS-AMUSKMENTS-SOCIBTY- 
 
 CONVERSATION. 
 
 m tUc United States, and tlie lashionaWe summer resort 
 of the northern section of the Union 
 
 nZ^M- 1 . , fu '''''™" "'I"^«'- I' i« ">»«% com- 
 posed of hotels and boarding-houses, of which there are 
 a great number, at all prices 
 
 abll' Id tf f r-H"'*^' '^ *>'<' "''west, most fashion- 
 able, and largest, having accommodation for upwards of 
 four hundred guests. Congress Hall is also laZ bu 
 
 same, VIZ two dollars per diera. For my own comfort 
 
 I would have chosen the latter; but under the 1™', 
 
 tances, I prefeixed driving to the former, where afte 
 
 we found to be large, handsome, and full of conmanv 
 most y promenading up and down. We recc ni"ed "» 
 face that we knew, until our railway acquaintance made 
 h.s appearance. He had gone to the oth.r bote , wTere 
 finding no hing doing, he had come over to ^u^ n 
 search oi a httle amusen,ent. Having visited the ^^rin" 
 I u tu uc oui ciccfone ne.xt day. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 45 
 
 OCIBTY 
 
 I Tliere are several kinds of mineral springs ; but Con- 
 gress Spring is the water held in most repute. I had 
 the curiosity to go out before breakfast next morning— 
 to see the company, and taste it ; although I hold, in a 
 general way, that good health should be let alone. In 
 a gallon of 231 cubic inches of this water, there is said 
 to be 300 cubic inches of gaseous contents. It is not 
 unpleasant to the taste, but rather palatable ; it is bottled 
 in great quantities, and sold in all the towns through- 
 out the Union ; it is found beneficial where the stomacli 
 is out of order, from the heat or otherwise, as I have 
 myself experienced. 
 
 True to his proiTiise, our friend took us next day, 
 first, to a bowling-alley, where we saw parties of ladies 
 and gentlemen at play ; afterwards to a shooting-gallery, 
 where numbers were practising pistol-firing at^amaii.' 
 We then accompanied him outside the village to an 
 Indian encampment, presenting an humble yet grotesque 
 appearance. On peei)ing into one tent we saw the old 
 squaw busy platting a basket, smoking at the .^ame time ; 
 the husband outside, preparing his dyes at a tire ; the 
 daughter, a handsome girl, ornamented with beads and 
 mocassins, seemed to resent being stared at, retiring 
 with a good deal of coquetry, into a neighbouring tent. ' 
 
 These poor people presented a very different appear- 
 ance from what their warlike ancestors must have done • 
 they resort to a place of this kind during the height of 
 the season to sell their wares, which is generally^liber- 
 ally responded to. 
 
 We then went to see a circular railway of consider- 
 able circumference, on which were placed two separate 
 cars, holding two persons each, and so nicely balanced, 
 that the parties, by turning a wheel, could cause them- 
 selves to run with great velocity— a small gratuity being 
 
46 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 paid for a certain number of circuits ; this was both 
 an ingenious and exhilarating amusement, and greatly 
 dehghted ray young people. 
 
 On our return Ave entered a Court of Law, where the 
 lawyers were pleading, and the judge presiding, without 
 wig or gown ; nevertheless, the judge had a gentlemanly 
 exterior and intelligent countenance, while the proceed- 
 ings appeared to be conducted with decorum. 
 
 To-day we had the pleasure to meet at our hotel 
 some of our fellow-passengers from Europe, in the wife 
 and sons of our friend, the cloth-merchant. 
 
 This evening there was a dance in the ball-room of 
 our hotel ; the company being admitted by ticket for 
 which a small sum was charged to defray the music' &c 
 Next morning we took a drive to Saratoga Lake in 
 one of the many omnibuses plying for the purpose ; it is 
 a fine sheet of water, about nine miles long, and two 
 wide, abounding with fish for the angler, as its shores 
 covered by the primeval forest, are said to do, with game 
 for the sportsman. 
 
 A steamer plies on this lake for the amusement of 
 visitors; but, something having gone wrong in its 
 machinery, we had to return to Saratoga disappointed 
 
 In the evening a flincy bazaar was held in the dancinc>-. 
 room for the benefit of some charity. Pretty, genteel 
 looking girls produced their wares from behind their 
 counters ; the attendance was full, and the sale went on 
 briskly-a charge of quarter of a dollar being made on 
 entrance. 
 
 The name of this village, or rather district, will be 
 tamihar to my intelligent reader, as the scene of one of 
 the greatest disasters that overtook us in our calamitous 
 war with our colonists,-the surrender of General Bur- 
 goyne and his army, destitute of provisions, and. under 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 47 
 
 other untoward circnmstances, to the numerically supe- 
 rior forces under General Gates, on the 17th October 
 1777. The sanguinary actions which led to it were 
 fought in this immediate neighbourhood; the battle- 
 field, called Bemus' heights, being a favourite trip for 
 visitors. 
 
 This disaster was the more important in its conse- 
 quences, in as much as it restored the hopes of the 
 colonists, and induced the French to lend their assistance. 
 
 The war in question became, in the evening, the topic 
 of conversation in my neighbourhood. 
 
 I admitted that the war had been popular at its 
 commencement in the mother country ; but, not without 
 some show of reason on our part, we had been embroiled 
 with France in the war which led to the capture of 
 Quebec, and the loss of her North American possessions 
 for colonial obiects, and at the instance of the colonists, 
 which was not brought to a conclusion without a great 
 expenditure by the mother country, of which we under- 
 stood them to refuse to bear their share. 
 
 One gentleman observed very truly that the success 
 of the colonists had led to all the political convulsions 
 that had followed, both in Europe and in South America ; 
 and here the conversation was allowed to drop. 
 
 It is well known that the colonists were in great alarm 
 S^t the supposed project of the French to connect their 
 two provinces of Canada and Louisiana by a chain of 
 fortresses along the course of the Mississippi ; and un- 
 ceasing in their representations to the mother country on 
 the subject. 
 
 It may be presumed, that if we had not been success- 
 ful in removing their French neighbours, the colonists 
 would not have pushed their quarrel with us d, I'oiitrance, 
 as we could have had no intention to oppress them. 
 

 48 
 
 RECOLIiECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 li 
 
 :i! 
 
 As It was, a war followed, llie most disastrous in our 
 aunals ; m the course of which France, and the other 
 maritime powers of Europe, in succession, took up the 
 quarrel, either moved by jealousy, or willing to share the 
 spoil. 
 
 Madame du Barri tells us in her memoirs, that Louis 
 XV. would not have assisted our revolted colonies for fear 
 of the dangerous example reacting on himself; which it 
 was not slow to do on his unfortunate successor. 
 
 We had now gratified our curiosity with the springs. 
 Before taking leave of them, I shall notice one or two 
 impressions made on me at the time. 
 ^ Our hotel, as I hav said, was the largest in the place • 
 It was a handsome building, situated in its own grounds' 
 laid out in grass, and ornamented with flowers, formin*^ 
 three sides of an oblong square ; the inner sides having 
 large broad verandahs, their whole length formin- a 
 pleasant promenade. Besides the principal buildfn- 
 there were separate cabins, as they are called, in th^'e 
 grounds, consisting of two or more rooms, for tlie accom- 
 modation of families, or others, who may prefer them 
 Uemg the most fashionable hotel, and the height of the 
 season, it was full of the best company ; the dinino-- 
 saloon was of course large ; the guests being place°d 
 according to their arrival. 
 
 The interior of such a hotel would of course present a 
 busy and varied scene ; I must do the Americans the 
 justice to say, that good-breeding, politeness, and sobriety 
 prevailed throughout ; there was not one instance to the 
 contrary -all seemed to fall into their proper places 
 without jostling or assumption. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 40 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 UTICA — TRENTON FALLS — MARKET PRICES — AUBURN — MODEL 
 
 PRISON — GENEVA — BOAT RACE — OLD LADY ROCHESTER — 
 
 GENESEE PALLS — ELEPHANT — LEWISTON. 
 
 On the afternoon of Friday the 20th August, we took 
 the railway dars for Utica, a distance of about fifty-eight 
 miles; it appears to be a thriving town, pleasantly 
 situated in the valley of the Mohawk, rising from the 
 river on an inclined plain, with a population of about 
 13,000 ; it is mostly built of brick, and very well laid 
 out. 
 
 Trenton Falls, situated on West Canada Creek, a 
 tributary of the Mohawk, about fifteen miles distant, are 
 the great attraction of the neighbourhood : no stranger 
 leaves, or ought to leave it, without seeing them. I 
 therefore ordered a conveyance the next morning. In 
 due time we reached the hotel in their immediate vici- 
 nity, for the purpose of accommodating visitors, the 
 landlord of which took care to acquaint me that I must 
 either pay him a fee for permission to pass through his 
 grounds, or dine with him on our return. I compro- 
 mised for the dinner, upon which, pointing to a pathway, 
 he retired, leaving us to gratify our curiosity in our own 
 way, as it seems was the custom. We descended ':his 
 pathway, leading to a long staircase down the steep bank 
 of the creek, which has worn a frightful chasm throuo-h 
 
 D 
 
60 
 
 RECOLLECTIOKS OF A VISIT 
 
 !( 
 
 ( 
 
 a rocky range, in some places 150 feet deep ; from 
 thence we proceeded, as directed, up the stream to 
 Sherman's Fall of about 35 feet ; the stream then pours 
 along with less rapidity to Conrad's Falls, of about 20 
 feet. The high falls have a perpendicular descent of 
 109 feet, and are divided by rifts in the rock into three 
 different cascades. There are other falls, the whole 
 forming— with the chasm, the high banks covered with 
 foliage, and the rocky cliffs— a scene of the wildest 
 grandeur ; all that is wanted is a safe path to view it. 
 This is very far from being the case. At particular 
 places there is great danger, and accidents are continu- 
 ally happening. To see the whole it is necessary to 
 surmount these dangers, in which my daughters showed 
 more courage than myself. The day was fine, and there 
 were other parties of both sexes, who set us a very good 
 example. When we got back to the hotel, we were 
 console ■ by being told that accidents were rare except 
 in rainy weather. 
 
 A few years before, two young ladies lost their lives 
 in consequence of the unprotected state m which a nar- 
 row ledge of rocks was left at the foot of a perpendicular 
 cliff, and overlooking the rushing waters, after which 
 unfortunate occurrence, an iron chain has been Sxed to 
 hold on by. 
 
 All, however, passed over safely with us, as it did with 
 the others. We assembled at the landlord's to a very 
 good dinner, and w^e drove back to the town in the 
 evening, very well pleased with our day's excursion. 
 
 Sunday, 22d August, we attended divine service 
 at the Episcopal church. 
 
 Next morning we amused oni-selves looking about the 
 town. I had the curiosity to inquire the prices in the 
 market. I found the best pieces of roasting beef to be 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 51 
 
 5 cents (2id.) per lb., mutton 3 cents (l|d.) : this is 
 probably a very good criterion of the scale of i)rices as 
 they mle in this section of the Union ; they may be a 
 -trifle higher in the large towns. 
 
 Tuesday, 24th August, we took the railway train 
 for Auburn, seventy-nine miles distant. We found it to 
 be a flourishing village, situated on the outlet of the 
 Oswasco lake, which furnishes a fine water-power. The 
 principal object of attraction to a stranger is the State 
 model prison ; it is said to have cost upwards of 500,000 
 dollars. The buildings form three sides of a hollow 
 square, one wing being divided into solitary cells and an 
 hospital, the other wing into cells. There is a yard for 
 workshops, the machinery of which is turned by the 
 water-power I have noticed. 
 
 The pj'isoners labour in silence, and are confined, when 
 off" woi'k, in solitary cells. 
 
 This prison we saw over, a small sum being charged 
 on entrance. All seemed to be cleanly and properly 
 arranged. We saw the prisoners at work (among whom 
 I observed several coloured people), some weaving car- 
 pets, others at cutlery, cabinet-making, &c. Before 
 leaving, the governor paid his respects to us. 
 
 These convicts are restored to society with industrious 
 habits and the knowledge of a trade, yet some of them 
 find their way back ; and in the car in which we arrived 
 was the sheriff, having in custody one of them. Success, 
 in every case, cannot be commanded ; nevertheless we 
 must admire, I think, the humanity and consideration 
 of their Government for these unhappy people. 
 
 Thursday, 26th, we came on by the railway twenty- 
 six miles to Geneva, The Americans are grandiloquent 
 as to names. We had already passed, in name, some of 
 the most celebrated cities of antiquity, which contrasts 
 
 ■■■ 
 
62 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 4 
 
 m 
 
 strujigely with these trim-looking mushroom towns of 
 yesterday. Those they have retained from the Indians 
 appear by far the best. 
 
 Geneva is pleasantly situated at the extremity of 
 Seneca Lake, a fine sheet of water, surrounded by a 
 dense forest as far as the eye can reach, the village or 
 town rising until it attains a commanding elevation ; it 
 is, like the others, of recent origin, handsome in appear- 
 ance, and may contain about 4000 inhabitants. 
 
 We found the people of the town and neighbourhood 
 taken up with a boat-race ; our hotel very crowded in 
 consequence. "I hate the man," says Sterne, "who 
 tra^-els from Dan to Beersheba and finds all barren !" 
 We took an interest in the busy scene, which we saw 
 from the top of one of the out-houses of our hotel, pro- 
 vided with seats for the purpose ; the day was fine, and 
 it came off with great eclat. 
 
 On dinner being announced, myself, and all the guests, 
 with ladies, were permitted to walk to the dining-room 
 at om' leisure, through two long groups of holiday folks, 
 who made a lane for us, and, after we were seated, and 
 not till then, rushed in a little tumultuously. The 
 propriety of behaviour, and respect paid to ladies in 
 America, has often been noticed, and cannot be too 
 niuch praised. It was conspicuous on the present occa- 
 sion, and argues, in my mind, a high state of civilisation 
 —a female, whether young or old, can travel alone with 
 safety and respect throughout the Union, while the 
 other sex feel themselves privileged by being of her 
 party. This may be apt to make our fair friends a little 
 too exigeante, and is said sometimes to do so ; for in- 
 stance, it so happened that my daughters had, on one 
 occasion, formed a speaking acquaintance in the cars 
 with an old lady ; while engaged in the fatiguing affair 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 53 
 
 it 
 
 of collecting our luggage, always a troublesome job, the 
 old lady tapped me on the shoulder, pointed to an im- 
 mense box, intimating that it belonged to her, as if I 
 had not already enough on my hands, and so walked ray 
 daughters off to the hotel, leaving it in my charge. 
 
 But revenons d nos moutons. The dinner, as far as 
 the holiday folks were concerned, was followed by a 
 supper, after which I was kept awake by set speeches, 
 gradually degenerating into noise as the punch operated. 
 
 On Saturday the 28th we took the train to Kochester, 
 a distance of seventy-two miles. This city is of recent 
 origin but of great importance, having rapidly increased 
 to upwards of twenty thousand inhabitants ; it owes its 
 extraordinary rise to the great water-power on the 
 Genesee Kiver, by which numerous flour-mills are 
 worked, and to its connexion with the Erie Canal and 
 Lake Ontario. On Sunday the 29th, we attended Divine 
 service at the Presbyterian church, in which we found an 
 organ and choir ; the service was respectably conducted. 
 
 Next day we looked about the town, and went out- 
 side to get a view of the falls of the Genesee, which, in 
 its passage through the city, has three perpendicular 
 falls, besides rapids — in all, a descent of 268 feet. 
 
 Outside the town we found an encampment of Mr, 
 Van Amburgh and his wild beasts. On our return we 
 met the elephant proceeding to bathe in the river, fol- 
 lowed by a crowd of children ; this he did very scienti- 
 fically, first feeling the bed of the river, then advancing 
 to the middle : when he could get no deeper he lay down 
 — a small part of his back being still uncovered, he 
 made a shower-bath for it of his trunk. After enjoying 
 himself in this way for some little time, he returned at 
 the call of his keeper. 
 
 The Genesee, on leaving its falls, enters Lake Ontario, 
 
64 
 
 RKCOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 from wliicli they are not many miles distant at a level 
 It becomes navigable for steamers at a place bearino- the 
 high-sounding name of Carthage, about two and a'^half 
 nnles from Kochester. 
 
 I determined to take the falls of Nia-ara by the 
 « eame which plies on Lake Ontario daily ^between the 
 above-mentioned place and Lewi8ton,in their immediate 
 neighbourhood; consequently, on the afternoon of 
 luesday the 31st August, we proceeded to it on the 
 cars of a httle railway provide(^ for the purpose, and em- 
 barked accordingly in the steamer. 
 
 The Genesee has here dug a deep trench for itself, the 
 banks of which are finely wooded ; daylight lasting 
 until we had all but cleared it. 
 
 We found the steamer commodious enouo-h and full 
 of passengers, but noisy for the greater part of the 
 ^nght ; the morning brought us to Lewiston, on the 
 United States side of the river Niagara, about seven 
 miles below the falls, and the same from the lake We 
 were reminded that we were on our own frontier by 
 
 rifio .f;''^ 'I' ""'"' '^''^'"^'^ ^^y«"'' *r««P« in the'war 
 ot 1812 ; It has been rebuilt with taste, and is a thrivin- « 
 v:llHge. ° 
 
 We now proceeded, on the tiptoe of expectation, to the 
 alls by a railway made for the purpose on the hi-her 
 leve , beginning above the town, from time to time 
 citcliing a glimpse of them through the trees, their 
 Yioise being very audible, the sun shining full upon 
 them ; they appeared animating and beautiful in the 
 extreme. 
 
 Two ladies in our car, sisters, fellow-travellers in the 
 steamer, were very conversible. They told us, among 
 other things, tha. their father had emigrated becausi 
 his elder brother, inheriting the landed property at 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 A6 
 
 home, lie was determined to be possessed of land also, 
 not caring, as they S'lid, wiierc it whs situated. They 
 were on a i)leasure trip, and, judging from their appear- 
 arjce, he umst have prospered. 
 
 There was also a young gentleman from Canada, who 
 told us his brotlier had forfeited his property by joining 
 in the late rebellion, contrary to the advice of his friends 
 and relatives. 
 
 In due time we reached the falls, and took up our 
 abode in the Eagle Hotel — one of the best on the 
 American side. 
 
 
 i 
 

 50 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ii^ 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FALLa OF NIAGARA-CANADIAN SIDE-INDIANS- 
 
 -nUFPALO. 
 
 the Americana as well as to strangers ; they form there 
 
 tI ImtTft ""^? """;« ">^ -.-".orLdTut.™ 
 1.0.!)? Tri ^ "''"'"*' "'^ '""« '""■■'^ than a line of 
 
 Sol Srf —"^ ^-^ P™^'- '- '"^ --- 
 
 si.-htTeW,",VT'""° "l^ "'^' " ^«''»'° notation of 
 thTrr^ ""t^""' '''■■""Sh. both on this and on 
 
 the Canada side the proper machinery being in dai"v 
 
 P id orrl' " '"' "' "^'«°^'' °"'^'^'^' and^so hav „^ 
 paid 01 r footing as it were, we found ourselves auietlv 
 dropped and free to go to work in our own tZ 
 
 on whlwr^iP™'' ^''°"* "^'"'>'-«^« ■"'!«« in length, 
 imi^r 1 i "' "*""*"''' ''^ *« g-^^t outlet of the 
 ThT river ;s"it T"? ''t ,^"^ "'"' ^^'^ Ontario 
 quarterrof . ™-| 1 "'".^'''''' ^™' '^ "^out three 
 
 Tp rhLri'l""'''.r'^- ^'•"'" *'™"*y*» f»'tyfeet 
 aeep , it has for three miles a rapid current and then 
 
 ot the tranquil lake. Five miles from Lake Erie the 
 
 miles m width, measured across Grand Island and 
 embraces, before it reaches the falls, forty islands ' Be- 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 57 
 
 low tho termination of Grand and Navy Islands, the 
 river is compressed to a breadth of two and a half miles, 
 and proceeds with an accelerated motion. Three-fonrths 
 of a mile above tho falls, tho rapids commence, which 
 have a descent of from fifty-two to fifty-seven feet ; they 
 are more than a mile in width, with white-crested 
 breakers, and a foaming torrent tossing above the main 
 current, until they come to the great cataracts. 
 
 We viewed the falls at every point, on both sides of 
 tho river, where they could be best commanded ; the 
 great body of water making its passage over the British 
 Oi- Horse Shoe full in a perpendicular descent of about 
 160 feet, fronting, as it does, the direction the river 
 takes in its onward course below. A lesser portion of 
 the river having found or forced a more circuitous course 
 for itself on the American side, falls perpendicularly at 
 a right angle with the other. 
 
 The country around being in no way picturesque, the 
 great features of these celebrated falls are very much 
 confined to the cataracts themselves, and to the great 
 commotion so great a body of water causes below in its 
 descent. They disappear, as it were, into a deep trench, 
 when the river takes its way onward to Lake Ontario' 
 a distance of fourteen miles, at first with great rapidity 
 and turbulence, as the trench narrows for some miles 
 until it makes an acute angle in its course, turning 
 abruptly off to the right, forming here a violent whirl^ 
 pool ; and here in seven miles the river descends 100 
 feet ; it then emerges into the more open country at 
 Lewiston, so nearly on a level with the lake that there 
 is only a fall of about four feet in the seven additional 
 miles. 
 
 The shape or outline of the British fall is said to be 
 undergoing occasional change ; in 1678, it was, it seems, 
 
58 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 I 
 
 'i; 
 
 straight across, and it has, in our day, lost in some 
 measure the horse-shoe shape. 
 
 The river here throws the great mass of its waters 
 perpendicularly over a shelf of limestone rock. As the 
 reaction of the spray of this immense volume of water in 
 Its descent from time to time, wears away a portion of 
 the more friable materials on which the rock in ques- 
 tion rests, it at first partly projects, and then breaks 
 under the pressure of the superincumbent cataract; 
 therefore that this fall has retrograded, and is retro^ 
 gading to this extent, there is proof positive, a^ well 
 rom Its present appearance, as in the pieces of the rock 
 Jymg on the shores of the river below. 
 
 The popular opinion is, that the fell had originallv 
 commenced at the extremity of the table-land, as it 
 nses immediately above Lewiston on the one side, and 
 Queenston on the other, and that it has cut its way to 
 Its present position-a distance of seven miles 
 
 We visited the Canadian side of the river more than 
 once--a finer climate or more fertile soil is not to be 
 tound anywhere in America ; yet it presented a languish- 
 ing and neglected look-large tracts of land altogether 
 unenclosed the villages meaner, the wooden houses not 
 so rim and nicely painted, contrasting somewhat pain- 
 fully with the other side. ^ 
 
 v.-n?r ''^T'"'^ ^''''' *^' ^'''y «^ '""^ «f tbese occa- 
 sions, we found ourselves in company with some Indian 
 squaws and their children. One had an interesting and 
 somewhat melancholy look-we asked the name of her 
 tribe ; she said, " The Tuscarora." In return, she asked 
 me m broken English the age of my eldest daulte 
 whom she seemed to regard wistfully and with interest 
 on understanding she had lost her mother. I told her 
 thirteen ; and that we had come a far way from home,' 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 59 
 
 beyond the Salt Lake. They seemed to be primitive 
 Imrmless children of the forest, deserving our strongest 
 sympathies, reduced as they are to be almost outcasts in 
 their native land. 
 
 The Canadian Indians are not, however, altoo-ether 
 neglected ; they are our allies in war, and are conse- 
 <iuently cared for in peace. Certain districts are set 
 apart for their use, and an annual allowance of presents 
 from our Government distributed to them, consisting of 
 blankets, rifles, and such other articles as are calculated 
 to suit their wants. 
 
 ^ In the immediate neighbourhood of the falls, on both 
 sides, numbers of these poor Indians are to be found, 
 who resort to it in the season as a sure market for theii' 
 wares, consisting of ornamented mocassins, pin-cushions 
 table-mats, baskets, and miniature canoes curiously 
 dyed, and worked up with beads, porcupine's quills, &c 
 after their peculiar manner, with some taste, and by no 
 means at low prices. Their claims, as I have elsewhere 
 said, are cheerfully and liberally responded to • they 
 were generally found in groups, sitting gipsy-fashion, 
 with their wares spread out before them, waylayincr the 
 promenades and roads to every object that a strmio-er 
 IS expected to see. ° 
 
 In our evening walks, our Canadian acquaintance 
 would sometimes join us ; he had taken up his abode 
 at one of the minor hotels, where he found himself he 
 said, very comfortable at the moderate charge of five 
 dollars per week. 
 
 We had now gratified our curiosity sufficiently with 
 the falls ; before bidding them a final adieu, however 
 I recollected I had not seen Buffalo. I therefore on a 
 fine morning, took the cars of the railway between the 
 two places, a distance of twenty^two miles, throucrh a 
 
 
60 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 flat country skirting the river in its upper course the 
 greater part of the way, until it issues from Lake Eri(» 
 as we approach Buffalo. 
 
 I found Buffalo, as I expected, a flourishing and 
 handsome town, on the banks of the eastern extremity 
 ot the lake. It dates its foundation from 1801 ; but its 
 present importance and rapid growth, from the comple- 
 tion of the Erie Canal in 1825, as well as from the 
 milroads since constructed, connecting it with New 
 York and Boston, its commerce extending far westward 
 through the chain of great lakes. Its natural advantages 
 are otherwise said to be great ; its population was at this 
 time about 18,000. 
 
 My first object was to see the harbour, which is formed 
 by Buffalo creek. It seemed to be spacious, well-pro- 
 tected, and full of steam-boats and small craft with a 
 depth of water said to be of about twelve to fourteen 
 feet. , 
 
 I then perambulated the town, which had a very new 
 appearance, as it well might, for it was sacked and 
 burned to the ground by our troops and their Indian 
 allies in the war of 1812, in revenge for some atrocities 
 ot a like nature committed on our frontier— where this 
 war seems to have been carried on with small numbers 
 great virulence, and alternate success. I now returned 
 by the same route, and rejoined my daughters at our 
 hotel, after an absence of a few hours. 
 
 The morning of next day, Wednesday, 8th Septem- 
 ber, we left the falls for Toronto by a very good steamer, 
 a distance of forty-five miles almost directly across Lake 
 Ontario. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 61 
 
 ill 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 li 
 
 LAKE ONTARIO — TORONTO — SCOTCH FARMER — EMIGRANTS — 
 CANADA — GENTLEMEN CHOPPERS — KINGSTON — RIVER ST. 
 LAWRENCE — GALLOP RAPIDS. 
 
 Lake Ontario, though the smallest in extent of the 
 five great lakes, is nevertheless 190 miles in length, by 
 fifty-five in breadth at its widest part, and about 480 
 miles in circumference ; it is said to be very deep, is 
 seldom frozen, and subject occasionally to violent storms 
 ■—it is connected with the other lakes by the Welland 
 Canal, constructed on the British side, round the falls of 
 Niagara, at a great expense, and navigable for schooners 
 and steamers of 450 tons— a work highly creditable to 
 the provincial Government. 
 
 It communicates at its eastern extremity with the 
 Atlantic ocean by the river St, Lawrence, by which all 
 these vast lakes may be said to have been formed, in its 
 onward progress from its source to the sea ; and it is 
 navigable for vessels of the largest size. 
 
 If we could look into futurity, we would probably see 
 this great lake the centre of a flourishing commerce — 
 its shores studded with populous towns. At present, as 
 we steamed boldly through its blue waters, a look of 
 solitary grandeur seemed to prevail— its banks covered 
 by the primeval forest, the clearings few and far be- 
 tween. 
 
62 
 
 BECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 We arrived at Toronto in good time, after a pleasant 
 passage, and took up our abode at the North American 
 Hotel, the best in the town. We found it full of com- 
 pany, a large party sitting down to dinner, where we 
 happened to be placed opposite a clergyman who had 
 arrived the day before, with his wife and mother, from 
 Barbadoes, with the intention of enjoying a Canadian 
 wmter. It was pleasing to observe the care he took of 
 his old mother. He told us that our West Indian 
 colonies languished after the emancipation of the slaves, 
 and that free trade and cheap sugar had altogether 
 ruined them. 
 
 He seemed to think there would have been more 
 wisdom in emancipating all born after, or of tender ao-e 
 at the date of the Act of Parliament, providing at the 
 same time a system of education to meet it. 
 
 Next morning, after breakfast, we sallied out to see 
 the town, which had a L.indsome, thriving appearance, 
 laid out regularly at right angles, verv much after the 
 fashion of our American neighbours, mostly built of 
 brick ; the principal street large, broad, and full of good 
 shops or stores. 
 
 This town has had its vicissitudes— it was founded by 
 Governor Simcoe in 1794, burned down by the Ameri- 
 cans in 1813, and has been the seat of 'Government 
 more than once ; its population was at this time about 
 19,000, and it is said to double itself every ten years. 
 There are some very pretty villas, in our Eiaglish stvle,' 
 in Its immediate neighbourhood ; also a college of some 
 pretensions as to architecture, built in its own grounds, 
 laid out in walks, ornamented with trees as a public 
 promenade for the townspeople. 
 
 The general character of the country herea^out8 is 
 level— it rises gradually, however, from the lake, and 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 63 
 
 rolls or undulates a little occasionally ; its fertility is 
 great, the soil being formed of a deep alluvium, as I 
 had an opportunity the better to observe where a stream 
 had worn the surface down. This description may be 
 said to apply to the whole of Upper Canada — a finer 
 country than which is nowhere to be found, or more 
 adapted to settlers from the mother country. 
 
 Keligious fanaticism takes strange freaks in the United 
 States, for a country so generally educated ; but we shall 
 trust that it is the exception, not the rule. My children 
 had become acquainted with a widow and her daughters, 
 residing at our hotel, whose husband, it was said, bad 
 become the victim of a person of the name of Miller, who 
 had persuaded his dupes that the world was to be at an 
 end on a certain day ; her object here, in scraping to- 
 gether the wrecks of his fortune, was to recover the 
 price of a farm that had belonged to her husband in 
 this neighbourhood. 
 
 She proposed that we should join her in the expense 
 of a carriage to this farm, a distance of twelve miles on 
 the principal road leading directly from the lake. To this 
 I readily assented ; the farmer, who expected us, gave 
 us a very good dinner, with port wine and Canadian 
 whisky. This man, a countryman of mine, was shrewd 
 and intelligent ; he had not been long out, and found 
 himself already, as he told me, in prosperous circum- 
 stances, the possessor of one farm, and in treaty for the 
 purchase of another ; he had formerly rented a hill farm 
 in the Island of Mull, in Scotland, at £130 per annum, 
 which enabled him barely to live and pay his rent ; he 
 brought out with him a wife and family, little capital, 
 but untiring industry^ the result being as I have de- 
 scribed. Now, to form a proper estimate of his farmer's 
 present advantages, it is necessary to view what must 
 
 I 
 
64 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 have been his condition in the old country. In Eng- 
 land, either from the operation of the poor-law, or from 
 some other cause, land is rarely too highly let. 
 
 Far different was the case in Scotland, at least at the 
 commencement of the present century ; there was no 
 poor-law ; the farms were in many cases let at rack-rents ; 
 frequently by auction, or public roup, as it is called, to 
 the highest bidder ; while the small tenant in particular, 
 without capital, led a cheerless life of poverty. 
 
 The next class of emigrants who cannot fail to do well 
 here, are the agricultural labourers. These people are 
 admitted to be very poorly paid both in England and 
 Scotland, to say nothing of Ireland, where they are still 
 worse off; yet, strange to say, the English labourers, 
 and probably the Scotch, are slower to avail themselves 
 of it than one would expect ; probably from ignorance 
 of its advantages. 
 
 Eraigi-ants of this description are much wanted, and 
 would meet Avith immediate employment ; if young and 
 single, so much the better; in such case they would 
 board in the house of their master, receiving wages from 
 £15 to £20 a year ; these they would save for a few 
 years, purchase land in the bush, as it is called (uncleared 
 land),— their own labour would do the rest ; this is the 
 origin of many of the most thriving proprietors of the 
 present day. 
 
 The next class of emigrants who might do well if they 
 chose, are officers on half-pay, annuitants, and small 
 capitalists with families ; but these are not thought to 
 be the best settlers. The first and second of these, if 
 they can command from £300 to £400, in the first in- 
 stance, with which to purchase a farm partly cleared, 
 with a house and out-buildings upon it, may settle down 
 very comfortably ; their half-pay will suffice to pay their 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 65 
 
 labourer, provide groceries, &c. ; their farm will do the 
 rest. 
 
 The third, if he can command about £2000, and goes 
 the right way to work, will find himself on a par with 
 the other two. The interest of money rules from six to 
 seven per cent, on good landed or household security in 
 the Canadas ; I shall suppose him to invest £1500 at 
 interest on mortgage, and employ the odd £500 to pur- 
 chase and stock his farm, and for immediate necessaries. 
 ^ It may be asked. What could these three classes, 
 situated as I have supposed, do at home, where every 
 one is vying with his neighbour in expense, and genteel 
 poverty looked down upon ? 
 
 It is ruinous, however, in the better classes of settlers, 
 to go into the bush ; it is nevertheless often done, when' 
 after exposure to unheard-of privation, it frequently 
 ends in misery. Under the most difficult circumstances 
 there ought to be the log-house, and at least thirty 
 acres cleared and in cultivation. But farms entirely 
 cleared are very reasonable. I was offered them repeat- 
 edly at one pound per acre. 
 
 Canada is one of the finest and most fertile countries 
 on the face of the globe, as it is also the cheapest, for 
 there are few or no taxes ; settlers, such as I have sup- 
 posed, find themselves at once raised from obscurity, to 
 the rank and influence in the colony to which their educa- 
 tion and position in society entitle them ; and this with- 
 out the necessity for more expense than their neighbours. 
 A gentleman would place his house at a little distance 
 from the road ; he might ornament it, at his convenience, 
 with trees, a lawn, and garden ; but these are more 
 questions of taste than of expense in the colonies ; in 
 other respects, he would live very much as his more 
 humble neighbour ; that is, he will keep his waggon and 
 
 E 
 
60 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 horse, as they all do, from the highest to the lowest, iu 
 which he will go to church, or visit his friend, with 
 whom he will take the family meal without invitation 
 or ceremony, to be returned in like manner. The wag- 
 gon will be substituted by a sleigh in winter. 
 
 Haying mentioned a waggon, I may as well describe 
 it, as in appearance an oblong box put upon four wheels, 
 with either one or two seats traversing, as the case may 
 be ; the better sort with springs ; and that it is in gene- 
 ral use throughout the whole of North America. The 
 sleigh is merely the same vehicle, placed, at a lower 
 level, upon two pieces of wood in the shape of skates, 
 shod with iron. 
 
 All sorts of mechanics and handicraftsmen may do 
 well in the colonies. 
 
 There is one class of settlers whom I have not yet 
 
 noticed, that are in some measure out of their element, 
 
 younger sons of genteel families, for whom no employ- 
 ment can be found at home ; these, after hanging idly 
 on their friends, come out as a last resource on a land- 
 speculation. They are known in the colonies under the 
 designation of gentlemen choppers ; they go into the 
 bush, get up their shanty, and commence clearing with 
 great energy ; they soon however grow tired, frequent 
 the neighbouring little tavern, run in debt at the stoie, 
 and weary out their friends at home, until remittances 
 are stopped ; there are exceptions however, some per- 
 severe, others become clerks of stores in the towns. 
 
 The class in question being already numeroiv • in the 
 mother country, and likely to increase, it is worth while 
 to consider whether emigration be not the natural safety- 
 valve in their case, as well as in the others ; and it un- 
 doubtedly would be, if the parents had the good sense 
 to bring them up to the knowledge of some suitable 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 67 
 
 in 
 
 trade or occupation, in direct reference to the advantages 
 It offers. For instance, there is an opening 'for lawyers 
 medical men, artists ; and I may add clergymen, mis- 
 sionaries, and schoolmasters. 
 
 A young person of this class cannot condescend to 
 keep a chemist's shop, become a printer, or any other 
 pursuit of the kind at home, however laudable in itself, 
 without in a certain degree losing caste. 
 
 A storekeeper in the colonies, on the contrary, is not 
 excluded from good society on account of his' trade 
 although he may be seen in his shop of a morning in his 
 apron ; his daughters go to the best parties, there beino- 
 no independent class above him ac with us, no aristo° 
 cracy but that of wealth, of which he is probably him- 
 self a member. 
 
 A great number of ray Scotch countrymen are thrivino- 
 settlers in this town and neighbourhood ; and I fancied 
 I recognised some faces familiar to me at home. 
 
 Sunday, September 12th, we heard the Bishop of 
 Toronto preach in the Episcopal or Cathedral Church. 
 
 One day this week, our clerical friend was missing at 
 the dinner-table ; he had just received the disagreeable 
 tidings that a distinguished banking and mercantile 
 firm at New York had failed, with whom he had lodged 
 1400 dollars— the sum which he had probably set apart 
 for this pleasure excursion. It turned out to be the 
 same house that cashed my bill on London. 
 
 ^ Sunday, September 19th, we attended Divine ser- 
 vice at the Presbyterian Church, more after the manner 
 at home ; there was neither organ nor (if 1 recollect 
 right) choir, the whole congregation joining in the 
 Psalm in the impressive and devout manner I had been 
 accustomed to in early youth. 
 Fatigued with our travels, and pleased with its so- 
 
 
 M! 
 
C>H 
 
 RKCOLLECTIONK OF A VISIT 
 
 ciety, we had lingered longer in this town than wo had 
 intended. 
 
 After again attendhig the Presbyterian Church on 
 Sunday the 26th, on Monday, the 27th {September, 
 we took the steamer for King8t<ni, at tlie eastern ex- 
 tremity of the lake, which we reachc/' hoxt morning to 
 breakfast. Our hotel was full of military, with some 
 stir otherwise in the town— the court sitting, probably 
 holding the assizes. 
 
 Kingston is advantageously situated on the hort/u 
 or Bi'itish bank of the St. Lawrence, as it escapes frojn 
 the lake ; it occupies the site of a fort built by the 
 French in 1672, and, next to Quebec and Halifax, is 
 considered to be the strongest military ])osition in our 
 North American possessions. There did not appear to 
 be much in the town inviting notice, although the Navy 
 yard and the fortifications are worth seeing. The hotels 
 are but indifferent, and some competition sadly wanted ; 
 ours, the British American, as it is called, is probably 
 the best ; we were charged at the enormous rate of two 
 dollars each per diem, i.e., the price of the best hotels in 
 the United States, while much better accommodation at 
 Toronto, with a private sitting-room and lights, cost us 
 no more than five dollars each per week ; and being 
 more, by half a dollar per day, than is charged at the 
 very best hotel in Montreal. 
 
 The town is built of stone ; it has a bare and some- 
 what bleak look, from the barren nature of the soil, from 
 which every kind of tree has been removed in the im- 
 mediate vicinity. Its population at the time of our visit 
 might be computed at 10,000. 
 
 It is of course an important military post, and is 
 garrisoned with at least one regiment, just then in 
 course of change, which accounted for the number of 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 69 
 
 their wives and cliildrei 
 
 I, wo met at our 
 
 railitarv 
 hotel. 
 
 Wednesday, the 29tli, we left Kingston for Mon- 
 treal, by one of the American line of steamers, touching 
 here for passengers, as the English boats were allowed 
 to do on the other side— the result of a friendly arrange- 
 ment between the two companies. vVe seemed to enter 
 almost immediately into the Lake of a Thousand Isles ; 
 this is an expansion of the St. Lawrence, which is here 
 twelve miles wide, and is so called from the great num- 
 ber of islands stretching along its channel for thirty 
 miles. The isles are of every size, form, height, and 
 aspect ; woody and verdant, presenting a succession of 
 beautiful and picturesque groups. 
 
 The river now contracts to about two miles in width ; 
 its shores for a long distance mostly covered with the 
 primeval forest, partially cleared, with villages scattered 
 at various distances, presenting a scene of grand and 
 varied beauty, until we reached Ogdensburg, a town on 
 the American side of the river, where we stopped for the 
 night, sleeping on board the steamer. I had lain down 
 in my berth without undressing, and unfortunately 
 without taking off my boots, of which I was reminded 
 in no very civil way, by some one going his rounds de- 
 manding my ticket ; on waking up rather reluctantly, 
 I asked him whether he had not chosen an unseasonable 
 hour, to which he rejoined that he would not have dis- 
 turbed me but for the boots, upon which I very civilly 
 apologized, which had its effect ; he left me with some 
 signs of compunction, and a \int to remove the cause of 
 offence. 
 
 The American steamer from Ogdensburg, in which 
 we should have proceeded, having met with an accident, 
 we had to wait here for the EngKsh boat, which leaves 
 
70 
 
 RECOLLKCTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 Kingston in tho morning at seven o'clock, to which we 
 were tmnsferred without any extra charge. This -avo 
 ine time to look about the town, in which I saw nothin- 
 however to interest me particularly ; it stands on the 
 immediate bank of the river, on a plain at the mouth of 
 the river Oswegatchie ; is regularly laid out, and miglit 
 then contam between two and three thousand inhabit- 
 ants. The town of Prescott, about tho same size, stands 
 immediately opposite, on the British bank of the river 
 which slopes upwards from the shore, there being a ferrv 
 between the two. 
 
 A few miles below these towns, we entered what are 
 called the Gallop Rapids, through which we were hurried 
 on with fearful velocity, there being, I observed, either 
 three or four men at the helm ; they are very interesting 
 while at the same time we could survey them with ease 
 and comfort from the towering height of our macrnifi- 
 cent steamer. . ° 
 
 These rapids stop the navigation of the river for sail- 
 ing vessels-a canal meeting the difficulty. More mpids 
 follovved from time to time, until the night gradually 
 closed in upon us. Early next morning we landed at 
 Machine, on the British side, as is the custom, to avoid 
 the last rapids, and were carried to the town of Montreal 
 a distance of about nine miles, in stages provided for the 
 purpose, without any extra charge ; a railroad for this 
 distance being then in course of construction, and since 
 completed. 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 71 
 
 I 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 •MONTREAI HAIIITANS-— SIR F. n. IIEAd's HOOK, " TUK KMI- 
 
 grant" — LA PRAIRIE— ST. JOIIN's. 
 
 Montreal, then the residence of the Governor- gene- 
 ral of the British provinces, and seat of government, is 
 well situated on the south-east side of the island of the 
 same name, formed by the river Ottawa, which, as it 
 approaches the St. Lawrence at an angle from the north- 
 west, here branches oflf on each side, and contributes to 
 It Its waters through two channels. Both island and 
 town take their name from the hill or mountain behind 
 the latter, from which it slopes down to the river, stretch- 
 ing along its banks for two miles. It is the second city, 
 and the chief seat of the commerce of Lower Canada, its 
 population amounting at this time to above 50,000. 
 
 The town is built of stone, the principal streets* run- 
 ning parallel with the river, crossed by others at right 
 angles. Along the bank of the river is an extensive 
 line of quays and warehouses. 
 
 The harbour, though not large, is secure, and vessels 
 drawing fifteen feet may lie close to the shore. The 
 quay here, about a mile in length, may be said to rival, 
 m beauty and strength of masonry, most of the cele- 
 brated works of the same kind in England. 
 ^ Its position at the head of the ship navigation of the 
 river, and at its junction with the Ottawa, as well as with 
 
72 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 respect to its posicion in regard to the United States 
 gives this city trading facilities of a high order. 
 
 It is ornamented with many fine public buildincrs 
 and churches, and has more the appearance of an ofd 
 Em-opean town than any other in America. 
 ^ We took up our abode at Donegana's hotel, the best 
 m the town, constructed on the principle of those in the 
 large American cities, but on a scale too large for 
 Donegana himself, whom it ruined. (It has since been 
 burned down.) Here, however, we found ourselves very 
 comfortable. A large parly met at table, where I ob- 
 served our English custom to prevail, of drinking wine 
 and sitting a^^er dinner. ' 
 
 We took an early opportunity to see the town, which 
 had an air throughout of ease and comfort. Many of 
 the better order of shop-keepers, merchants, and artisans 
 are from the old country ; but the mass of the people 
 appeared to be the descendants of the original French 
 settlers, better known under the name of llabitans,— a 
 primitive and inoffensive race, satisfied with their con- 
 dition, and subordinate to their clergy and seigneurs 
 They all wear a costume very much alike, the principal 
 feature of which is immense boots worn over, and con- 
 siderably above, the knee. 
 
 _ On the surrender of these fine colonies, certain condi- 
 tions were stipulated for in favour of their religion, and 
 of the revenues and property of their clergy. These 
 conditions have been strictly adhered to on the part of 
 our Government, and the consequence is that the two 
 religions are found to co-exist in the same town without 
 clashing. The Koman Catholic clergy, in particular, 
 are in possession of large landed revenues, a cathedral 
 —one of the principal ornaments of the town, and 
 many religious houses, without showing any dispo- 
 
 

 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 73 
 
 sition to interfere in any way with their Protestant 
 neighbours. 
 
 To the cathedral we went on Sunday, to high mass, 
 and found it, large as it is, crowded : the congregation' 
 appeared to be very devout. I had the curiosity to take 
 a peep at the nuns as they passed me in succession to 
 cross themselves with holy water from a font near where 
 I stood. Here, I confess, I was somewhat disappointed. 
 Instead of the sentimental beauties depicted in my mind, 
 I found them to be coarse-featured, middle-aged women' 
 indicative that society had not, at least in one sense, lost 
 much by their marriage to Mother Church. 
 
 The principal English church is a handsome building 
 in the Grecian style. There is also a Presbyterian kirk, an 
 American Protestant church, besides Dissenting chapels. 
 
 There are two colleges, and other institutions for 
 education. 
 
 One day we visited one or two of the Roman Catholic 
 religious houses, and some other objects of curiosity in 
 the town ; on another we drove round the mountain by 
 a road making its circuit more than half way up its 
 ascent, and commanding a fine view of the country 
 round. Here there is a fine building in its own grounds, 
 the country palace of the Governor. 
 
 Politics ran high; the demerits fermenting which 
 have since exploded so seriously. 
 
 For the riots which followed the sanction he gave to 
 the obnoxious bill for indemnifying the losses sustained 
 by the party implicated in the late rebellion, the governor, 
 perhaps, cannot be held responsible : he had no alter- 
 native, probably, but to act with the party in power. 
 The colony being self-governed, the battle between the 
 two parties should probably be fought out at the elections, 
 as at home. Besides, the Habit.ms are, as I have said, an 
 unoffending race, nor is there pny reason to doubt their 
 
 
 Iff ii 
 
 
 ^fi 
 
 f 
 
 
74 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 I 
 
 ^ 
 
 loyalty to the British crown, by whom they are justly 
 and leniently governed, in common with all our colonies 
 since the unfortunate American war. Their priests are 
 likewise daid to be very well aware of the self-supportino- 
 principle which holds throughout the United States in 
 regard to church-government ; as are also their seigneurs 
 as to their customs in matters connected with the tenure 
 of land. 
 
 Sir Francis Bond Head's book, entitled, « The Emi- 
 grant," was lent me to read by a lady. It is clever, and 
 m some parts particularly interesting; but when he 
 enters upon politics, in reference to the outbreak in 
 Upper Canada under his government, Sir Francis, in my 
 mind, makes out a clear case against himself. Instead 
 of holding the balance even, and curbing both parties 
 by the strong hand of power, he puts himself at the 
 head of one, and is prepared to ride roughshod over the 
 other, until prevented by the better sense of the Govern- 
 ment at home. 
 
 We now prepared to bid adieu to Montreal, and to 
 our kind friends in it, from whom we had received much 
 civility ; and, on the afternoon of Saturdav the 16th 
 October, we embarked in the steamer to La Prairie— a 
 small town on the other side of the river, eight miles 
 distant. 
 
 La Prairie gives its name to a large, level district of 
 fertile meadow land, belonging to the Catholic church of 
 Montreal ; this we crossed in the cars of a railway we 
 found waiting us, to the small town of St. John's, on the 
 river Eichelieu, at the head of the steam navigation of 
 Lake Champlain, a distance of sixteen miles. Here we 
 remained all night, and the next day, Sunday, attended 
 Divine service at the Protestant church ; in the evening 
 we embarked in the steamer for the lake, in company 
 with a great many fellow-passengers. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 76 
 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 LAKECHAMPLAIN— WHITEHALL— TROY— SPRINGFIELD— BOSTON 
 —EARLY SETTLERS— THEIR FEUD WITH THE QUAKERS. 
 
 Lake Champlain takes its name from the distin- 
 guished French navigator who, in the reign of Henry iv. 
 of France, founded Quebec ; and who, on tracing the St.' 
 Lawrence and its tributaries upwards, discovered it, gave 
 it his name, and considered, no doubt, that he had added 
 It, with its contiguous territories, permanently to the 
 French crown. 
 
 It is remarkably narrow, varying in breadth from half 
 a mile to fourteen miles, while it is 140 miles in length, 
 in an almost direct line, north and south, and is of great 
 importance, as lying in the direct route from New York 
 and Boston to Montreal, and from thence to Upper 
 Canada. It is consequently navigated its whole length 
 by a daily line of large and commodious steamers, when 
 the season permits; the railroad on which we had 
 reached St. John's being constructed for the express pur- 
 pose of facilitating the transit. 
 
 Our province of Lower Canada, as fixed by recent 
 treaties, traverses the lake at a right angle, about twenty- 
 four miles south of St John's, in the direction we were 
 now travelling ; after which it is bounded on the right 
 by the State of New YorK, and on the left by the 
 New England State of Vermont. 
 
76 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 li 
 
 m 
 
 In ancient times, as may be supposed, its boundaries 
 were not so well defined ; on the contrary, under the 
 Irench, whose pretensions extended much further, and 
 who, to support them, had erected forts extending to 
 Its further extremity, while the English colonies were 
 advancing on both sides. Its neighbourhood became con- 
 sequently a debatable land, fruitful of sanguinary con- 
 tests between them ; our colonists supported, of course 
 by the mother country, ' 
 
 In the revolutionary war, and more recently, it has 
 been the scene of battles between ourselves and the 
 United States, attended with varied success. 
 
 The lake abounds with salmon, sturgeon, and other 
 excellent fish ; it is generally frozen over in the winter, 
 and is passable on the ice. The outlet for its surplus 
 waters is by the river Kichelieu, sixty miles long, which 
 enters the St. Lawrence forty-five miles below Montreal. 
 I was up at an early hour in the morning to admire 
 the scenery— nor was I disappointed. I found the lake 
 gradually to expand in width as we approached tho town 
 of Burlington, on the Vermont side—the w^hite wooden 
 houses of the town sprinkling its shore— the green moun- ' 
 tain to which the State owes its name, in bold relief in 
 the distance— the New York side presenting a series of 
 wild wooded hills. 
 
 For twenty miles from its further extremity, at the 
 town of Whitehall, the lake contracts, so as to have ihe 
 appearance of a river about half a mile in breadth. 
 
 We reached Whitehall towards the afternoon, from 
 whence we immediately took the canal passage-boat, en 
 route to Troy. This we found pleasant enough, as long 
 as we could sit upon its deck and look about us ; but 
 as the evening closed in, we found the crowd great, the 
 cabin small, and the accommodations indifferent,- some 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 77 
 
 slept upon their chairs, some on little beds suspended to 
 the wall, others played at cards. I spent a miserable 
 night, and was glad to seek the deck the moment day- 
 light permitted. 
 
 We now reached the railway to Troy, at a place caUed 
 Mechamcsville, into the cars of which we got (ind 
 arrived at that town in time for breakfast. ' 
 
 Troy lies in the valley of the Hudson, where its banks 
 curve up on each side, somewhat in the shane of an 
 inverted arch, the slopes of which are ornamented with 
 villas belonging to the townspeople, and form pleasant 
 walks. 
 
 The town itself is situated on the level below, built of 
 brick, and regularly laid out ; although, as I have said 
 not of so much pretension as its more aristocratic 
 neighbour, Albany. It is certainly far more prosperous 
 being situated, as it were, in the throat of the enormous 
 commerce springing up between the eastern sea-board 
 towns and the far west ; it participates largely in its 
 benefits, as is to be expected. Its population at this 
 time, I should judge to be quite equal to its neighbour 
 which it must eventually far exceed. ' 
 
 We passed this and the next day at Troy On the 
 morning of the 21st we left it by railway for Boston via 
 fepnngfield, which latter town we reached towards even- 
 ing, and took up our abode for the night in one of the 
 most comfortable hotels in the United States. 
 
 Springfield, in the State of Massachusetts, is pleasantly 
 situated on the Connecticut River, and is one of the 
 most important inland towns of New England ; there 
 are said to be prosperous manufactures carried on here 
 and in the neighbouring villaeref^ : it is likewise the 
 centre from whence four great .n^. of railroads diverge 
 to the different points of the c.>mpas8. Trains are con- 
 
 i 
 
 t'fi 
 
 Ji 
 

 78 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 tinually arriving and passing through. Near the river 
 are rich alluvial meadows, at the back of which the 
 ground rises to a considerable elevation ; its population 
 might then have been about 15,000. 
 
 Next morning after breakfast we resumed our seats in 
 the cai3, and reached Boston in very good time for an 
 early diianer. 
 
 Our friends at Montreal had recommended the Win- 
 thrope Hotel to our notice ; a place of less pretension 
 than some others, they said, but pleasantly situated, 
 frontmg the Common, and moderate in its charges. 
 Thither we drove accordingly. We thought the bed- 
 rooms too small, and asked to see the landloid ; the 
 colonel, they said, would be with us immediately ; he 
 soon made his appearance, was very civil, and ultimately 
 all was arranged to our satisffiction. 
 
 Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, the metropolis 
 of the New England States, the second city in com- 
 merce, and fifth in population of the United States, is 
 Situated on a peninsula of an uneven surface ; it is nearly 
 sijiTounded by the waters of its harbour on the east, and 
 Charles River on the north and west. The peninsula 
 was originally marked by three hills, which now afford 
 admirable sites for building, and give the city a bold and 
 handsome appearance. 
 
 The insurrection, the immediate forerunner of our 
 unfortunate American War, broke out here in the year 
 1772 ; a historical fact too eventful in its consequences 
 not to be generally known. It must have been then a 
 very small place, because, in the year 1800, its popula- 
 tion, we are told, was under 25,000 ; since then it has 
 increased in a compound ratio, numbering at this time 
 120,000. 
 
 Its harbour, or rather bay, is deep and well protected 
 
TO THE UNITED STATF' 
 
 79 
 
 by a chain of islands, acting in some measure m break- 
 waters. Railroads have also done much for it bv con 
 necfng It with the far west, and with the other towns 
 as well inland as on its own sea-hoard. There are said 
 to be fifty arrivals of trains per day ; and there is alto- 
 gether a suiprising energy and activity in commercial 
 
 luxury, all of which are conspicuous, not confined to the 
 tew, but spread among the many 
 
 The town is built of brick ; bui partly from the nature 
 of the ground, and partly, no doubt, from its earlier 
 toundation, it is not so regularly kid out as some • yet 
 
 F'bhc bm dings are handsome, particularly the Cu torn 
 House, bmlt of marble, with a dome, supported in tl" 
 interior by massive, and at the same t me, elegln 
 marble columns. ' ^^^t,'^iii 
 
 sit3^!f rr'".' 7^r ^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ «"^ ^^^t^i to be 
 
 situ..ed, I found to be something much superior to what 
 Its name would imply; it contains an area of about 
 seventy-five acres, enclosed by an elegant iron fence laid 
 out as a park, and ornamented with trees, in shane a 
 quadrangle, fronting three sides of which are houses of 
 the best description ; the fourth is bounded by the Charles 
 Kiver. It forms the public mall, or promenade, and ..as 
 my favourite walk. 
 
 Boston was founded as early as 1630 ; in that year 
 Governor Wmthrope arrived with a number of emi- 
 grants and settled at Charlestown, but afterwards 
 lemoved to Boston ; no doubt attracted by the advant- 
 ages of its harbour. 
 
 These emigrants were not the poor outcasts of the 
 present day, but composed of members of the better 
 ranks of society, seeking an asylum in the wilds of the 
 
80 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 New World, from what they considered to be religious 
 persecution at home, where they were known under the 
 generpj appellation of Puritans ; to such small begin- 
 nmgs does the present flourishing Eepublic owe its origin 
 ^ It would have been well for these Puritans, if, bearing 
 in mind the past, they had been, in their turn, more 
 tolerant in the future. Their annals unfortunately tell 
 a different tale ; their feud seems to have been with the 
 Quakers in particular, whom they banished on pain of 
 death. The Quakers came back and were executed • the 
 more severity used, the more did the unhappy Quakers 
 court martyrdom, until these proceedings attracted the 
 notice of the Home Government, and were put a stop to. 
 The King (Charles n.), writing . the Governor on 
 the subject, m his own hand, sele. a Quaker to be 
 Its bearer, who, on being summoned before the Gover- 
 nor, and desired to take off his hat in his presence, coolly 
 produced his credentials, desiring the Governor to take 
 off his, while he read the letter of his Sovereign. 
 
 It cannot be otherwise than a subject of regret that 
 persecution should have been carried so far against a 
 sect so unoffendir- and harmless as the Quakers. 
 
 Yet at the sam. ime it would not be lair to measure 
 those times by the .. .ndard of our own, religious tolera- 
 tion being essentially a plant of modern growth • it has 
 solved a problem in politics not then understood ; that 
 a community consisting of a variety of religious sects 
 may exist m harmony, provided its government has the 
 good sense to hold the balance even, and to allow no 
 undue interference with the creed of either. 
 
 Perhaps the most fatal political error committed in 
 modern times, was the revocation of the Edict of Nantes • 
 had the Bourbons respected the act of their great an- 
 cestor, they would probably in their adversity have had 
 
^iseai 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. g, 
 
 « powerful body of loyal subjects to fall back upon 
 wbeh nught have gone far to change the face of Ci 
 
 The aspect of Boston is influenced at the present dw 
 
 tie the most religious and moral city of the Union .,,.1 
 oe,^inly there is a pat outward Val^eo'; 
 pnety and decorum ; it is also said that the nasal twa ," 
 or whine, peculiar to the New England Stat, a 
 remnant of the old Puritanism ' * 
 
 in^^^'V'T '^""^»™" '■" 'he town, and several insti- 
 tutions for the encouragement of science ; also a disHn 
 guished Univei-sity at Cambridge, in the "nnn« ,W," 
 vamty, which gives a tone of lett°e>; to its soc^ ■"" 
 We met with much civility in the town, my dau^^hters 
 m particular bemg noticed, which personally gratilied 1 
 ^^^^tnrday, the 23d, we spent in rambliSg o.:lZ 
 
 Sunday, the 24th, we accompanied some of our friends 
 to the Episcopal Church. 
 
 t^°^^^;r^ *'"""'' *'"' '""■""■"g 'he book in request 
 oo be itfr Macaulay's Miscellanies ; his critique o^Tme 
 recent history of Greeoe (Grote's or Mitford's) wa^t 
 particular, much admired. ' 
 
 One evening we had tickets given us for a conceit 
 which was very well attende.1, and some tine pie" rf 
 mu^ic no doubt well executed, but all this was^fdu 
 .ffinr to me as it was probably to most of tjie compan ' 
 1 thereiore fell into conversation with a ladv of 2 
 P^ from No™ Scotia ; .she spoke of the ClJ , 
 
 It must be admitted that travellers from the mother 
 ••onntry, Irom whom l,ettcr things flight be ex- 
 
 H 
 
 ' Hi 
 il 
 
 F 
 
82 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 l)cctoa, indulge in a sneering, contemptuous tone in 
 treating of the United States, overlooking our common 
 origin, and drawing their conclu.sionn from some ima- 
 ginary standard of perfection,— certainly not to be found 
 at home. 
 
 This acts injuriously in two ways ; it engenders a 
 sense of injustice, with an impression that it must be a 
 mode of writing popular in England. It is to be 
 lamented, because its tendency is to create enmity be- 
 tween two communities formed for mutual friendship. 
 
 We passed a pleasant evening in seeing Banvard's 
 moving Panorama of the Mississippi, since exhibited 
 with success in London. 
 
 The drama, as I have already observed, is generally 
 patronized in America ; as it is in Boston, in a building 
 under the name of a museum, for a theatre has there an 
 immoral sound. 
 
 ^^ To this museum we went, and saw an old iiivourite— 
 " Blue Beard"— represented, to the great delight of my 
 girls. 
 
 One day I observed a man busy at a coal wharf. I 
 asked him at a venture how he got on. His reply was 
 that he got on very well, being able to earn with his 
 horse and cart a pound a day ; that he was from the old 
 country, and that this was the country to come to ; upon 
 which he invited me into the house, which I civilly de- 
 clined, and so we parted. 
 
 Sunday, the 31st, we attended the Presbyterian 
 Church. 
 
 On Monday morning, the 1st of November, we bade 
 adieu to our friends, and embarked on board the Cu- 
 nard line of Steamer Cambria, for Halifax, in company 
 with a great number of passengers mostly going to 
 England. 
 
 ri 
 
\ 
 
 TO THB I VITED 8TATKS. ^ 
 
 There were a few besides ourselves, however for 
 llahfax, among o lers some officers of its garrison 'who 
 had been absent on a tour in the United States The 
 - 1 tound us running along the coast of Nova Scotia 
 which had a dreary appearance, from the lateness of the 
 season^ On Wednesday the 3(1, we groped om- way 
 ito Halifax h.-l,our in the midst of a thick fog- in 
 tlie course of which we came upon the steamer of 'the 
 same Ime from England, -^roping its way out. After 
 the usual greetings, inquiries about the progress of the 
 Mexican war, &c we went on, firing guns, until we 
 reached our wharf in safety. 
 
 By the kindness of friend., we found rooms taken for 
 us in a respectable boarding-house. 
 
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 Piiotographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Coiporation 
 
 23 WEST MA!M STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
 
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84 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VLSIT 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 NOVA SCOTIA HALIFAX— HARBOUR POLITICAL DISSKNSMNS 
 
 IRISH ROMAN CATHOLICS. 
 
 Nova Scotia was originally colonized by France, 
 probably her earliest transatlantic settlement, although 
 we had some prior claim in right of discovery; it 
 changed hands more than once with us and that power, 
 by different treaties of peace, but finally became ours 
 tibout one hundred years ago, when the town of Halifax, 
 its capital, was founded. The Indians, being trouble- 
 some and hostile to us in the infancy of our settlement, 
 and supposed to be countenanced by the French colon- 
 ists, who had from the first cultivated friendly relations 
 with them, steps were taken to get rid of these colonists 
 in a body ; this was effectually accomplished, not how- 
 ever without much personal hardship ard suffering to 
 them. 
 
 Since which, in the lapse of time, the Indians have 
 ceased to be formidable ; they are to be seen about the 
 country, while certain reserves have been set aside for 
 them, in which they live peaceably. 
 
 The town is seated on the declivity of a hill, about 
 250 feet high, rising from one of the finest harbours in 
 the world, and crowned by a strong fort ; the streets are 
 generally broad and well laid out. Viewed from the 
 water, or from the opposite shore, the town appears 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 85 
 
 prepossessing and animated; its po])ulation may be 
 about 25,000, exclusive of the military and navy; 
 and there is a general air of comfort and well-being 
 among all classes, with some commercial activity, bul 
 not so much as one would expect, from its fine and deep 
 harbour, protected by an island at its mouth, entered at 
 all times of the tide, and open to navigation all the year 
 round— no slight advantage in this part of the world. 
 There is also an inner harbour, called the Bedford Basin j 
 said to be capable of holding the whole British navy' 
 very beautiful to look at, and full of fish, but frozen 
 over so hard during a part of the winter, that it is passed 
 in sleighs. 
 
 These inner waters, or estuaries, occurring ao fre- 
 quently as they do in North America, certainly foi-m 
 one of the finest features in its landscape. 
 ^ The town is as yet built generally of wood ; the 
 Governor's house, the Admiral's, and one or two public 
 buildings, being the exceptions. 
 
 That this town will some time or other, from its 
 greater proximity to Europe, and other advantages, be 
 the centre of an extensive commerce, it is impossible to 
 doubt. At present the impetus that is to bring this about 
 is wanting ; there are some capitalists, but no corre- 
 sponding enterprise ; the town, and probably the pro- 
 vince, depending very much for a market on the com- 
 missariat, and other expenditure of the army, navy, 
 and Government,— the garrison generally consisting of 
 three regiments of foot, besides the quota of artillery 
 and engineers wanted for the fort ; it is likewise the 
 summer naval station of our West India squadron, the 
 admiral removing to Bermuda in the winter. 
 
 Although this town is situated in a latitude corre- 
 sponding with the south of France, yet it has a northern 
 
 m 
 
88 
 
 RECOLLECTIOI/S OF A VISIT 
 
 aspect from the country in its neighbourhood being 
 covered with stunted pine and spruce firs ; the low hills 
 being rocky and barren, although lying pleasantly 
 enough m regard to each other. 
 
 About two miles from the town there is a break in 
 the land, or inlet of tlie sea, called the north-west arm 
 running inland for some distance, in a line parallel with' 
 the harbour. Its breadth, which is not very great is 
 nearly equal throughout ; its banks, being precipi- 
 tous, and covered with the firs in question, give it a 
 somewhat melancholy look-they are otherwise well 
 situated for villas, as the water is for boating and 
 nshmg. ° 
 
 The province is as yet but thinly peopled, and partly 
 unoccupied, although it received a considerable accession 
 ot inhabitants at the close of the American war from 
 the American loyalists, as they were called, who re- 
 ceived grants of the best lands, and whose descendants 
 are now the most prosperous settlers ; there is also 
 a colony of German settlers at Lunenburgh, retaining 
 traces of their distinct descent, as well as others from 
 the same country, spread about ; likewise free negroes 
 shipped from Jamaica at the close of the Maroon war 
 an inoffensive race, associating very much by them- 
 selves, and cultivating the lands assigned to them in 
 peace. 
 
 xilthough the character of the country is in general 
 rugged, and the soil poor, yet there is much fine land 
 partly alluvium deposited by the numerous streams and 
 rivers by which the province is intersected. 
 
 The province is also rich in minerals; coal and 
 gypsum being already worked to some extent, and in 
 which a considerable trade is carried on with the United 
 States, as well as with our own provinces. There is also 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 «T 
 
 H 
 
 a considerable trade in dried fish, which is shipped from 
 Halifax in large quantities to the West Indies, and 
 other places. 
 
 In other respects it is as yet very much covered with 
 the primeval forest, in which there is much valuable 
 timber, besides the ever-prevailinj,' fir. Its scenery 
 abounds in variety of hill and dale — parts extremely 
 picturesque, interspersed with many small lakes and 
 trout streams, independent of those of larger dimen- 
 sions. 
 
 On my arrival in Halifax I found the whole of its 
 society convulsed in political dissensions, carried to a 
 height unknown at home, mixed up with feelings of 
 animosity to the Roman Catholic portion of the com- 
 munity on the part of some ; the causes of which I will 
 endeavour to explain. 
 
 It appears that the colony, from its infancy down to 
 the present day, in common with its neighbouring 
 British provinces, had been governed by the mother 
 country, wisely and leniently in the main, through its 
 local governor, assisted by an executive council of his 
 nomination. A loud call had been made of late years by 
 these provinces for responsible government — in other 
 words, by a legislature elected by themselves. This the 
 Government at home had lately found it prudent to con- 
 cede, certain arrangements in regard to a civil list beino- 
 stipulated for ; the dominant party had consisted of the 
 aristocracy— that is, of the high officials, rich merchants, 
 and others of influence. These were at first able, from 
 their position, to carry the elections under the new 
 regime ; but the liberal or radical party was gradually 
 gaining strength, till, on the eve of the last election, they 
 were tolerably balanced. In this emergency, the Irish 
 Roman Catholic settlers (who are represented as hostile 
 
88 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISI'J 
 
 to the inotlier country to a man), threw their weidit 
 into the radical scale, and made it prepondoi-ate. 
 
 The new Government, unused to power, is represented 
 to grasp too greedily at the sweets of office, and, to effect 
 It, IS said to have made some removals indiscreetly if 
 not unjustly, coming in, as they did, on the prctence'of 
 a reform of abuses. 
 
 The other party retort, that their opponents had been 
 so long accustomed to office, that they arrogated to 
 themselves a prescriptive right to it, and to the system 
 ot jobbing that was the consequence. 
 ^ In this political ferment, as a stranger, I took little 
 mterest ; I had occasion, however, to call on my banker's 
 correspondent, in reference to my letter of credit • he 
 was a man of large property, and had been one of' the 
 executive council under the old system. I found him 
 as was to be expected, very discontented with the new- 
 state of affairs, also expressing g-eat animosity to Sir 
 Kobert Peel's measures of free trade ; to this latter I 
 begged to demur, on the gi-ound of the evil working- of 
 the opposite system at home. "^ 
 
 I believe all parties at home are now agreed on the 
 beneficial tendency of the late Sir Eobert Peel's mea- 
 sures ; that they offended his parfy at the time d, Vou^ 
 trance, is, I think, to be regretted, because it deprived 
 tlie country of his services at a time when they were 
 much wanted, interfering with the further measures for 
 her benefit, which he contemplated, and which his com- 
 prehensive mind had power to grasp. The income-tax 
 should not, it appears to me, be objected to under the 
 circumstances ; more particularly as it acts as an -.'jsentee 
 tax, much wanted when we consider the number of our 
 country people residing abroad, as well as the number of 
 foreigners holding money in our funds. 
 
 \- 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 8'J 
 
 The Irish Roman Catholics are numerous in tlur 
 colony ; they consist for the most part, in the first in- 
 stance, of the most destitute class of emigrants — hut are 
 industrious, soon become thriving, and consequently 
 good subjects. In the town they drive trucks, unload 
 vessels, or keep small retail shops. In the country they 
 are first farm-servants, afterwards landed proprietors. 
 They are possessed of one of the best churches in 
 Halifax, with a bishop and a numerous staff of priests ; 
 that they are inimical to the mother country to a man is 
 a sweeping charge, and must be received with caution. 
 
 The grievances of Ireland an o of long standing ; let us 
 hope that the measures lately carried out at home for 
 her benefit, and those in progress, may usher in the 
 dawn of a better day, when she may become a flourish- 
 ing portion of the empire — her wrongs no more remem- 
 bered, or remembered only as a matter of history. 
 
 In the meantime, the exodus of her pauper popula- 
 tion, while it seems to act at home as a safety-valve, 
 which the peccant humours have opened for themselves, 
 should be to the colonies an unmixed good ; where they 
 become hewers of wood and diawers of water for the rest 
 of the community. Highly to their praise, they are 
 said to remit from their hard earnings upwards of a 
 million sterling per annum, to their distressed relatives 
 at home— there being bankers in the United States 
 whose sole occupation it is to effect these remittances. 
 
 in 
 
90 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 «KI.KORD RASJN— WINDSOK— IIIVKR AVON-WOLFVILLK-nASIN 
 OF MINICS— DYKi: LAND— BAPTISTS— COLLEGE— FAKMRRS— 
 TREKS— MONEY— TEMl'ERANCE MOVEMENT— CLLMATE— FAR- 
 MERS' LIRRARY — SIR ARCHIBALI) ALISON's » HISTORY OF 
 -REMARKS. 
 
 EUROPE" 
 
 After passing a fortnight with our friends in Halifax 
 partly to recruit from our fatigues, on the morning of 
 Thursday, the 18th November, we took the coach" for 
 Wolfville, a villa-e situated in the district of Horton 
 on the confines of the Basin of Mine-, sixty miles dis- 
 tant, the residence of my sister (and her daughters) the 
 widow of a naval officer, a Nova Scotian by birth, 'who 
 had, on the close of the war, retired with his family to 
 liis native province. 
 
 The road, for the first nine miles, skirted the Bedford 
 Basm, which gave us a fine opportunity to view it in all 
 its bearings. On its banks was pointed out to us a villa 
 formerly belonging to the late Duke of Kent, the father 
 of her present Majesty, who had resided some time in 
 the province, in which he had been condescending and 
 popular. He had taken some pains to ornament it : it 
 was, however, now falling into decay. 
 
 On emerging from the basin, we entered upon rather 
 a dreary and elevated tract, covered on the right hand 
 by stunted fir-trees interspersed with blocks of granite ; 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 91 
 
 on the Mt hand, on a lower level, by a s iccession of very 
 pretty lakes and meadow-land, the stream from which 
 made its escape over a fine rocky bed into the Bedford 
 Basin ; after which the country became more elevated 
 and gloomy on either side, and full of stones, with occa- 
 sional clearings, and ho.e and there lakes of no great 
 dimensions, until we reached the summit of the high 
 land, the road gradually descending to Windsor, when 
 a glorious prospect opened upon us,— the town of Wind- 
 sor, the river Avon on which it stands, the Basin of 
 Mines, with a variety of hill and dale, far and near, more 
 or less covered by the primeval forest. In due time we 
 reached Windsor, a distance of forty-five miles from 
 Halifax, where we found a dinner provided for us that 
 would have done credit to an English inn. 
 
 Windsor is as yet a small town, but gives promise of 
 a goodly future. It stands on the river Avon, forming 
 here, at liigh water, a broad and deep estuary of the 
 Basin of Mines, from which it is not far distant. The 
 country, for miles round, being formed of the alluvium 
 which I shall describe presently, is fertile in the extreme. 
 There are some handsome villas in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood, and it is sheltered by an amphitheatre'' of 
 rather low hills, rising pleasantly in the distance. There 
 is here a very well- constructed wooden covered bridge 
 over the Avon ; and the banks of the river being at this 
 place hemmed in on one side by gypsum cliffs, a con- 
 siderable trade is already carried on in that article, which 
 is in request in the United States, and other places, for 
 manure and other purposes. There is at Windsor a 
 college for the young people of the province, partly sup- 
 ported by the State, and of good repute. Here the 
 spring fii-st makes its appearance, and many attributes 
 conspire to make it a desirable place of residence. On 
 
 I! 
 
02 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OB' A VISIT 
 
 leaving it a few miles behind, wc found ourselves gradu- 
 ally ascending a high and woody tract, commanding on 
 the other side, in a long and gentle descent, a view of 
 great variety,--the basin, its boundary, Cupe Blomedon, 
 with a fine undulating country, here and tiiere cleared! 
 We passed several line streams, and then the mouth of 
 tiie river Gaspereau, coming down through its fine valley 
 to flow into the basin. We at length reached Wolfville, 
 a distance of fifteen miles from Windsor, where I was 
 delighted to embrace my sister, whom I had not seen foi' 
 H lapse of years. I domesticated myself with her for tlie 
 winter, intending, on the return of spring, to put my 
 plan in execution of becoming better acquainted with 
 the United States in a more extended tour, leaving mv 
 daughters under her care. 
 
 The village of Wolfville I found to consist of a few 
 farmers' houses and others, built of wood, standing sepa- 
 rately, scattered along the road on each side for about a 
 mile, where it skirts the Basin of Mines ; the road itself 
 being the great highway between Halifax and St. John, 
 New Brunswick, via Annapolis and the Bay of Fundy. 
 
 Beyond the village, in a plain, the river Cornwallis 
 runs into the basin, bounded by Cape Blomedon, rising 
 in great grandeur; the whole very picturesque. This 
 cape forms the extremity of a long ridge of high land 
 skirting the Bay of Fundy to its entrance probably from 
 the open sea, until here some violent convulsion appears 
 to have snapped it asunder, leaving an entrance for its 
 waters into the basin of no great width, through which 
 the tide flows and ebbs with great velocity. 
 
 The tide, as it rushes up the Bay of Fundy, not being 
 able to find an outlet, is said to rise here to a height of 
 sixty feet, surcharged with a detritus of red earth of the 
 most fertilizing qualities, which it undermines from the 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 98 
 
 Hhorea and clifFs of the bay in its advance ; this it has 
 deposited, in a process going on for ages, at the mouths 
 of rivers, estuaries, or wherever it could find shelter, 
 forming tracts, for miles and miles, of the richest land 
 on the shores of the basin and elsewhere. 
 
 On the eastern side of the village as it is entered from 
 Halifax, there is a great extent of this land, retaining 
 its name of Grand Pro, given it by tlie French settlers" 
 with whom it was in great repute. It is dyked in from' 
 the sea (as land of tliis description generally is), and 
 in spring-tides it is sometimes broken in upon. Being 
 bare of trees, and its fields divided by the usual zigzag 
 fence, it is not pleasing to the eye. Its value I undei" 
 stood to be about £1(1 sterling per acre— an enormous 
 price for the colony. 
 
 The land slopes upwards from the village until it 
 crowns the broad and sheltered valley through which the 
 river Gaspereau runs. The locality is indeed very fine, 
 the scenery of great variety, as I had a better oppor- 
 tunity of judging when I saw it clothed in the verdure 
 of spring ; at present the severe winter of Nova Scotia 
 was about to set in. 
 
 The farms in the immediate neighbourhood I found 
 to consist of strips of land, extending from the basin to 
 the crown of the hill, of no great breadth, but so con- 
 trived that each might have a share of the dyke-land ; 
 the ground up the slope being cleared to a certain extent; 
 the remainder furnishing firewood and fence poles. 
 
 At one extremity of the village there was a neat- 
 looking small church for the Episcopal service ; in the 
 middle of the village, a large meeting-house for the 
 Baptists, both constructed of wood. 
 
 Also, in the immediate neighbourhood, a college or 
 school, where young men of the Baptist persuasion"^ and 
 
94 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 / 
 
 othora, were boarded and educated at a very moderate 
 charf,'e ; not exceeding in the vvliole, I tliink,il7 or £18 
 sterling a year ; among tlu'so were poor students, who 
 ])aid nothing. I found a laudahjo desire for education in 
 this province (as well as in the United StatcH), the sons 
 of mechanics, small farmers, and others, petitioning their 
 fathers to be sent to school ; after which, some of them 
 become 13ai)tist ministers, some missionaries, others teach 
 u school, — all are considered to rise by it in the social 
 scale. It cannot but be desirable, under such circum- 
 stances, that an institution like this should succeed ; and 
 the province was under.stood to make some allowance 
 towards it from the i)ublic purse ; nevertheless, it lan- 
 guished, and was all but ruined at the time I left the 
 province : whether they had constructed their building 
 at a cost beyond their means, or from whatever other 
 cause, I know not. It was a handsome building of wood, 
 standing sufficiently on the rise to command a fine 
 view ; but it wanted trees, both for ornament and shelter. 
 
 I may as well mention here, that the farmers seem to 
 look upon a tree as a natural enemy, removing every 
 vestige of them in their clearings far and wide ; setting 
 their houses down close to the road, surrounded in a 
 slovenly manner by their out-houses, with an immense 
 unsightly barn, constructed of unpainted deals, placed 
 directly in front, on the opposite side of the road, if their 
 farm extends so far. 
 
 There are, however, exceptions to this. In the houses 
 of the better sort, in the Baptist minister's, the doctor's, 
 or the lawyer's, for instance, you find the house removed 
 to a proper distance from the road, the out-houses placed 
 behind, and neatly painted, with some attempt at a 
 lawn, and hedge-row in front ; the want of the trees, 
 once removed, cannot be so easily supplied. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATUS. gr, 
 
 Arul yet it would seem as if imtiire iiad given tliein 
 their fine evergreen firs feuthered to the bottom lor the 
 express purpose of shelter duri„g the intense' cold of 
 their severe winter ; more particularly when the wind 
 blows from the north-west, whieh their wooden houses 
 comfortable as they are in other respects, are not cal- 
 culated to keep out. 
 
 It appears to me also, that they might with great pro- 
 pnety leave a belt of these evergreen iirs round each 
 held; the snake or zigzag fence in general use here as 
 in the rest of North America, has a naked ar.d bizarre 
 appearance ; it is recommended by its cheapness and 
 other conveniences ; the straight p„les of the pine and 
 spruce irs, so plentiful in this province, are admirablv 
 adapted for it. They are simply allowed to rest upon 
 each other alternately, leaving a space between each 
 equal to tlieir bulk, sometimes bound at the upper ex- 
 tremity of each with twigs, or further strengthened by 
 a pole i,laced perpendicularly, and fastened in the ground 
 No nailE are used, and they are easily replaced in their 
 proper position in the spring, if thrown down in the 
 course of the winter, which they are apt to be. 
 
 This bad taste of the farmers, if allowed to go on 
 must, in the end, have a disagreeable effect on the aspect 
 of the country ; at present it is not so perceptible, the 
 clearings being only partial ; in whatever direction the 
 eye is turned, it rests on a fine wooded landscape the 
 evergreen firs contrasting finely in winter with the snow 
 in the clear cold atmosphere. 
 
 ^ Of their mode of farming, I am not so well able to 
 judge ; It IS probably more careless than at home • every 
 farm-house, I observed, was accompanied by a large and 
 well-stocked orchard. Their upland is but indifferent 
 nor did I observe much pains taken to manure it' 
 
^' . , 
 
 96 
 
 liECOLLSCTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ' 
 
 IH; 
 
 althongh t,hey might have the alluvium in plenty for the 
 trouble of carting it from places where the small streams 
 keep it open. 
 
 They were at one time in the habit of raising very 
 good wheat on the dyke land ; but this has been a 
 failure of late years, from some weavil that devours the 
 ear; they also cultivate potatoes in great plenty, and 
 were celebrated for one called tbe blue-nose (which has 
 o-iven a soubriquet to the provincials), but these have 
 suffered of la^.e from the disease now common to them 
 in England ; tliey also raise Indian corn, between the 
 ?»talkb of which large pumpkins are grown. 
 
 They raise cattle and sheep in plenty, and of good 
 brteds, housed during their long winters, when they are 
 fed very much, in addition to hay. on turnips, carrots, 
 parsnips, and other succulent roots, which they are of 
 late getting more into the habit of cultivating for the 
 purpose. Their low meadows and dyke lands produce 
 very good hay, which they don't generally stack in the 
 open air, as with us, but throw loose into the lurge barns 
 I have described, in lofts or compartments constructed 
 for the purpose. 
 
 They are generally thriving, live comfortably, but 
 otherwise careful of their money. 
 
 The equality of condition, general well-being of the 
 people, and almost total absence of extreme poverty, is 
 the pleasing feature of society here, as it is in the United 
 States, and Canada. Every family in the village lives 
 very much alike, each possesses some land, their horse 
 and waggon ; they have a good dinner every day, a com- 
 fortable house, and a meai or bed to give a ft-iend, if lie 
 should happen to stray in ; all done however with due 
 provincial economy, the young members of a family 
 being brought up to inake themselves nsefiil in the 
 
 .11 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 97 
 
 but 
 
 menage, in many ways that would not be thought of at 
 home. 
 
 In speaking of the farmers, I luav as well mention, 
 that it is the rule of each, to keep one agricultural ser- 
 vant all the year round ; but in their short summer, to 
 employ the number of labourers they may require, when 
 the services of all the young men of the neighbourhood, 
 of whatx3ver condition, are in requisition at good wages^ 
 besides their keep ; this, the latter call " hiring themsefves 
 out," and so valuable is this labour understood to be, that 
 the parents invariably claim and receive the price of it 
 as their undoubted right, where the recipients are under 
 age, which is very often the case. 
 
 The money circulating in the province consists of 
 English silver, with a little gold, and one-pound notes, and 
 upwards, of the bank of British North America, reckoned 
 m the currency of the country, that is, the shilling equal 
 to fifteen pence, the pound to sixteen shiUings, the sove- 
 reign to one pound five ; and so scarce is it, that busi- 
 ness is carried on very much in the primitive way of 
 barter. 
 
 The province, which is as yet for the greater part un- 
 occupied, is said to abound in game ; but this I doubt, 
 whether it be kept down by the severity of the winter' 
 or that the inferior animals follow the cultivation of man,' 
 being able to find a subsistence on what he can spare! 
 It consists for the most part of moose-deer, of an animal 
 between a hare and a rabbit, which does not burrow, 
 and of wood partridges ; these are free to all, there bein*- 
 no game-laws ; and are sold at moderate rates ; there is 
 likewise great store of trout, salmon, and other fish in 
 the rivers and basin. 
 
 The farmers rear geese, barn-door fowls, and other 
 ^ -.ry m plenty, tor sa^e, and also supply the wants of 
 
 a 
 
iV 
 
 9H 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 the village, in the absence of a butcher's shop, from time 
 to time with meat ; the prices ruling, if possible, lower 
 than either in Canada or the United States ; it may 
 therefore be understood that I did very well in the way of 
 eataUes ; in the drinking way I did not fare so well. 
 
 I have throughout life been moderate in drinking, but 
 I had been accustomed for many years to a glass or two 
 of wine at dinner : for this I found myself compelled to 
 substitute a little brandy and water ; spirits being 
 generally to be had good and at moderate prices, while 
 wine, from the retail dealers, I found to be of inferior 
 quality. I mention my habit in this particular, because 
 it was looked upon as a sin by my neighbours, among 
 whom the temperance movement was at its height; 
 taste not, touch not, handle not, in the words of the 
 pledge, being the order of the day. This reform, it 
 appears, had been much wanted, and the result could 
 not fail to be beneficial, as much hard drinking had 
 prevailed for years, more or less among all classes ; but 
 unfortunately they fell into the opposite extreme, until 
 they could tolerate nothing less than total abstinence. 
 This, as may be supposed, was found to be difficult to 
 comply with, and was said to lead sometimes to drink- 
 ing in private ; while in ordinary society nothing was 
 to be had stronger than water — very difiicult to recon- 
 cile to a European stomach. 
 
 The climate I look upon as very bracing and healthy ; 
 the heat of summer, which is not of long duration, being 
 tempered by the breezes from the Atlantic. The severe 
 frost and snow generally sets in a little before Christmas, 
 and continues with little intermission until about the 
 last week in March, when it begins to break gradually 
 up. 
 
 During this period the air is dry and pleasant ; the 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 99 
 
 sun shines in a clear blue sky ; the people sleighing 
 about in every direction, as it was with me my almost 
 daily amusement and exercise. The cold is bearable, 
 except when the wind blows violently, more particularly 
 from the north-west, which seldom lasts however more 
 than three days at a time, when it is prudent to keep 
 within doors. 
 
 After the month of March, the weather sets in not 
 unlike our spring at the same period, but owing to tho 
 frost remaining in the ground, and the nights freezing, 
 nothing grows until about the end of May, when the sum- 
 mer may be considered to have commenced. The heat 
 becomes greatest in the months of July and August ; 
 towards, the middle of September it cools down sensibly.' 
 
 Fevers and agues, common in the United States, and 
 m a lesser degree in Canada, are not known here ; but 
 there are occasional cases of consumption, which are to 
 be found indeed throughout the whole sea-board of the 
 Atlantic. 
 
 Tolerably comfortable in my winter domicile in other 
 respects, I began to be in want of books, having ex- 
 hausted my sisters little stock. On inquiry, I learned 
 that there was a farmer's book club in the neighbourhood 
 at the small quarterly subscription of three shillings 
 sterling ; to this I was, as a stranger, readily admitted!* 
 
 My readers in England may be curious to know what 
 sort of books were to be found in a farmers' library, at 
 such a charge, in this distant, primitive, and to them 
 probably obscure colony. On examining the catalogue 
 I found Mr. (now Sir Archibald) Alison's "History of 
 Europe," for the thirty eventful years closing with the 
 late peace; Adam Smith's "Wealth of Nations ;" one 
 or two of Sir Walter Scott's novels ; Chambers' Miscel- 
 lanies ; with other works of minor value. 
 
'I 
 
 10() 
 
 RECOLLEf "IONS OF A VISIT 
 
 tl ',; 
 
 I read Sir Archibald Alison's book with much in- 
 terest. It supplied me with an agreeable course of 
 reading for weeks, in which the midnight lamp often 
 found me poi'ing over his pages ; the stirring events of 
 which he treats were already familiar to me, as they must 
 have been to every gentleman who had partly lived in 
 those times. 
 
 It is a work of great labour and research ; and, as a 
 whole, highly creditable to him. His style is easy ; and 
 when he confines himself to his historical narrative, it 
 seems to be faithfully given from the best authorities, 
 without permitting it to be unduly warped by his own 
 ])redilections. 
 
 In his occasional commentary, where his own pre- 
 judices are permitted to come more into play, I some- 
 times fancy I find him wide of the mark. 
 
 For instance, in his horror of democracy, he seems to 
 overlook that it is the due mixture of that element in 
 our Constitution that has made our country the "reatest 
 empire probably of modern times. 
 
 He is likewise the advocate of class interests, and of 
 indirect taxation — "Because," as he says, "the latter 
 being put upon articles of consumption or luxury, are, 
 in one senso, voluntary— to be paid or avoided at the 
 will of the consumer." If this were true in practice, it 
 would be an argument against, not for, a system of tax- 
 ation of tliis kind ; but the people must live, and are 
 generally found to spend their incomes. Carried to the 
 extent that it has been in our country, it has led to a 
 wide system of adulteration and fraud, and of waste in 
 its collection, creating an artificial scarcity, accompanied 
 by comparatively moderate receipts into the Exchequer, 
 as is proved by the buoyancy of the revenue under the 
 recent successive reductions. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 101 
 
 It should be borne in mind, at the same time, that 
 direct taxation bears rule in the rest of Europe. Why 
 are France, Prussia, and Austria, cheap countries to 
 reside in, notwithstanding their comparatively small 
 resources, large military establishments, and public 
 debts ? According to Adam Smith, it is because the 
 greater part of the public revenue is levied directly on 
 the land. " In Prussia," he says, " it amounts to thirty- 
 three per cent., or one-third of the rental." 
 
 Lord Clarendon tells us, that when the parliament of 
 his day granted a fixed annual sum to King Charles ii., 
 in lieu of Wardships, he intended to assess it on the 
 land, but that the parliament threw it on the Excise. 
 
 We are no doubt culpable in having allowed so long 
 a period to elapse, since the conclusion of the war, with- 
 out reducing our debt more materially. 
 
 This might have been done in various ways : we might 
 have kept up the sinking fund, or formed the nucleus of 
 another, before resorting to cash payments, or put on a 
 special slave-tax for the emancipation of the negroes (in- 
 stead of burdening the country with twenty additional 
 millions), to which the old ladies, its advocates, might 
 have been invited to add their voluntary contributions. 
 
 Sir Archibald tells us, that the allies levied ninety-one 
 millions sterling from France at the close of the war, as 
 an indemnity for its expenses, out of which six millions 
 being allotted as our share, we handed it over to repair 
 the frontier fortresses of the Netherlands, since pro- 
 nounced to be useless. It is clear that a much larger 
 share should have come to us ; but even the sum in ques- 
 tion would have been useful,a8 the germ of a sinking fund. 
 
 However, if we look our finances in tlie face, their 
 condition will be found to be by no me;.a desperate — 
 our debt has been lessened hy the successive reductions 
 
 m^mimmmmmm 
 
w 
 
 102 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 it 
 
 f 
 
 of the five and four per cents., and will be still more so 
 in the course of the next five years, when the lon^r 
 annuities fall in ; while the population and resources of 
 the country have increased at least one-third since the 
 close of the war. As we have the means of calculatino- 
 irom the former and present produce of the income-tax,— 
 
 The former income-tax of ten per cent, or 28. in 
 
 the pound, produced, . . .£14,000,000 
 
 Ihe present, at 7d. in the pound, produced, . 6,800,000 
 And at 28. in the pound, would produce, in round 
 
 ""'"b^^^' • • . . . 20,000.000 
 
 There ought, therefore, to be no cause for uneasiness 
 on the subject of our finances ; the only question seems 
 to be, how they can be levied with least oppression to 
 the public, and most productively for the Exchequer. 
 I should suggest at least one-half in direct taxes, in 
 time of peace, namely — 
 
 Income-tax (if not more), . . . £10,000,000 
 
 ^tamps &c.. (extended to real property), . 10,000,000 
 
 roet-Oihce, \ 
 
 Woods and Forests, / • • . . 1,000,000 
 
 House and other direct taxes, in lieu of assessed 
 
 taxes, 
 
 In the revenue statement for the vear endinc 
 
 April 1847, ' 
 
 The Customs stood at . . ^621,000,000 
 
 The Excise at . . . 14,000,000 
 
 _ ^ ^ £35,000,000 
 
 Instead of which, the Customs and Excise at 
 well-regulated low duties. 
 
 . 6,000,000 
 £27,000,000 
 
 27,000,000 
 £64,000^ 
 
 The above plan would carry out the reform in our 
 finances at very small cost indeed. 
 
 The extension of the stamp-duties wnnld not h« 
 seriously felt, and ought not to give cause for complaint. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 103 
 
 SO 
 
 While lowering the level of the income-tax, and its 
 extension to Ireland, would produce probably more than 
 I have set down as from that source, the tendency of 
 the Customs and Excise, under the system I have sup- 
 posed, would no longer be found to act as a prohibition 
 on consumption, and should be a boon to all classes. 
 
 There is every reason to believe, that under it the 
 revenue would be found to be very buoyant, leaving a 
 large surplus applicable to the annual reduction of the 
 debt. 
 
 I agree with Sir Archibald in his censure of the im- 
 provident manner in which our three per cent, loans 
 were contracted, the inconvenience of which is now felt 
 in the obstruction it offers to the further reduction of 
 the interest in our funds. 
 
 I cannot agree with him in his remarks in reference 
 to the Roman Republic ; he tells us the Romans were 
 successful because they extended their institutions to 
 their conquered provinces ; whereas their policy was 
 quite the reverse — they governed their provinces accord- 
 ing to the religion and laws of the vanquished ; and to 
 this historians have hitherto attributed their successL 
 For the manner in which they were governed in the 
 latter days of the Republic, we have only to read Cicero's 
 orations against Verres, to say nothing of Sallust's govern- 
 ment of Africa. 
 
 The Romans were peculiarly tenacious of their own 
 laws and privileges, not permitting them to extend be- 
 yond their city until after the social war — the most 
 critical they ever waged (the second Punic war ex- 
 cepted), when the allied states of Italy, combined for the 
 purpose, wrested them from their grasp by main force ; 
 and with them, as is well known, fell the Republic. The 
 laws wisely framed for the government of a single town 
 would not work when extended over Italy. 
 
:l' 
 
 I 
 
 104 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 CHAPTER Xiy. 
 
 CHUnOII OP ENGLAND—BAPTISTS-— ROMAN CATHOLICS- 
 GOVERNOR. 
 
 There is no want of religion in the province ; the 
 bishop of Nova Scotia presides over the Church of 
 England, the clergy of which, in the country parts, are 
 sent out by the Church Missionary Society, with an 
 allowance from home, to which is added some land, and 
 probably some other little advantages ; but their num- 
 ber is small. The different dissenting sects are numer- 
 ous—the prevailing one throughout the province being 
 the Baptist. 
 
 The Episcopal minister did not reside in our village, 
 and he had two other churches under his charge, so that 
 we had only an occasional service, generally well at- 
 tended. The Baptist ministers, residing in the village, 
 and being also the schoolmasters, had it very much their 
 own way; their service was, for the most part, well 
 conducted, numerously attended, and a general zeal 
 shown to make converts— particularly among the pupils 
 under their care. When the boys became, to use their 
 phrase, converted, the girls of the village would become 
 converted also— a hole would then be broken in the ice 
 of a neighbouring pond, and a general baptism take 
 place in the depth of winter, amidst great excitement 
 —•one of which I had the curiosity to witness. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 105 
 
 Tliey did not go quite so far, I think, as to say that 
 there was no salvation out of the pale of their own 
 church ; but I saw more hostility to their brother dis- 
 senters than appeared consistent with Christian charity. 
 
 The Roman Catholics, for the reason I have given in 
 Chap. XII., were particularly in bad odour — they were 
 prayed for as heretics. In their sermons it was an- 
 nounced to the horrified congregation, that it was fore- 
 told in the prophecies that there was to be a fight be- 
 tween them and the Protestants, with a hope expressed 
 that the Protestants would be prepared ; this, as was to 
 be expected, became the subject of conversation. I 
 observed, in my turn, that all that seemed to be want- 
 ing to set the people by the ears, was for an equally 
 indiscreet Eomish priest to inculcate from his pulpit a 
 like doctrine. 
 
 In admiring an old lady's garden and menage, I 
 happened to observe that she had an excellent servant. 
 " Very true," she said, " but he would murder us all if 
 his priest ordered him." " Would you not do the same 
 by him if your priest ordered you ?" " dear, no ! I 
 beg your pardon, sir ; that is quite out of the question." 
 And so, I have no doubt, it was ; but a little more 
 charity on her part, in judging others, would have 
 plj^ased me better. 
 
 The month of April having now arrived, I went up to 
 Halifax for a week or two, to arrange my pecuniary 
 affairs, prior to my more extended tour in the United 
 States. 
 
 I found politics still at a fever heat, but the change 
 was otherwise agreeable. 
 
 It is pleasing to observe the care taken by the mother 
 country to secure for her colonies the due administra- 
 tion of justice ; so much so, that in equity cases, where 
 
106 
 
 REOOLLEOTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 we may suppose it might bo warpcl, she provides that 
 l.er Governor « officio shall preside at tirp el^inls 
 and as .„ch he held responsible for the decision ' 
 
 I had not yet seen the Governor, the late Sir John 
 
 onl7hr ' ™.T;''"'""^ P-^'^'-S through the courts 
 of law he was p<„„ted out to me, presiding in his quaUty 
 of Lord Chancellor, at the hearing of « case. Beino i^ 
 plain clothes, I at first took him for the Chief-Ju tC 
 m,stak.ng h,s military secretary for him, who was si D 
 in an arai-chair in an undress uniform 
 
 I found him to be, as I expected, a fine-lookin- in- 
 telligent officer and gentleman. ' 
 ^He was understood to govern his province with tact 
 and judgment ; of this, I fancy, there could be no doubt 
 
 fit wish "" °";?™''««; ''o «^^ popular with them. 
 His wish was I believe, to hold the balance even, and 
 
 stble'^r* ^ '*''"'" '''"' "" P""«^' v^^rethi pos- 
 sible m the then state of polities. The other party, how- 
 ever, kept aloof from his advances, givin/him Zv 
 undeservedly, in refei^nce to .ny ^oncilialorv «:ct"^ 
 speech of his, the soubriquet of Sir John Humbu- 
 
 I provided myself in Halifax with sufficient "money 
 ior my journey, mostly in British gold, knowing that I 
 ecu d cljange it for American in any of the larg! towns 
 of the Union, and returned to WolfviUe, resolving to 
 keep a minute account of my expenses, which I had 
 neglected to do befora >- ' J naa 
 
 «ia«(tx««hifJi> 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 107 
 
 m- 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 hASlN OP MINES— PARSBOllOUOII— AMHERST— 8ACKVILLE— BAY 
 OF FUND Y— AGRICULTURAL MEETING— ST. JOHN, NEW BRUNS- 
 WICK — RIVER ST. JOHN-— FREDERICKTON. 
 
 On the morning of Monday, the 15th May 1848 I 
 bade adieu to my daughters, sister, and friends, and 
 embarked for Parsborough, on the opposite side of the 
 Basm of Mines, in a small schooner (said to be a crazy 
 craft) plying between it and our neighbouring villacre of 
 Lower Horton. With a fair wind we crossed the basin 
 m about three hours ; the weather pleasant until we got 
 beyond the protection of Cape Blomedon, when we ex- 
 perienced the effect of a rough current running into the 
 basin. My fellow-passengers consisted of the owner of 
 the craft, and one or two others, with whom I had plea- 
 sant conversation on one subject or another. One party 
 belonging to the rival school at Sackville, accounted for 
 the all but failure of the Wolfville College to the undue 
 pams taken to make the scholars Baptists, which ac- 
 cording to him, originated in excitement, and would be 
 naturally objected to by parents of different persuasions 
 whose object was a general education for their sons. To 
 this the other passengers seemed to assent. 
 
 The tide happening to be out on our arrival, we had 
 to get into a boat, and from it to jump on shore, on the 
 open beach, dry-shod if we could. This chflfionltv ovar_ 
 
loa 
 
 I' < 
 
 I. H 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 como, WO went to tlie Parsborougl) Hotel, a house of 
 yory modest pretensions indeed. Under tlie pretext of 
 its being a temperance house, there were neitlier wine, 
 brandy, nor cigars to be had ; there was no alternative 
 for mo, however, but to remain, as it commenced and 
 contmued raining for the rest of the day ; if the fare, 
 however, was indifferent, the people were civil and the 
 charges moderate. No mail going the next day, I Avas 
 compelled to hire the landlord's waggon, driven by his 
 brother, a fisherman. 
 
 ^ Tuesday, 16th May, 1 set off accordingly at eight 
 o'clock in the morning for Amherst, a distance of thirty- 
 five miles, in rather a shabby turn out, the hoise 
 threatening to break down more than once, the driver, 
 however, civil and obliging. I observed that the ridge 
 of high land ran on in a continuous direction from Pai"^- 
 borough, skirting the bay, as I have already noticed. We 
 continued our route by a road cut through the forest, 
 mostly of firs ; the land on each side appeared to be 
 poor, the clearings partial, and very much confined to 
 the neighbourhood of valleys, through which there 
 generally ran a stream, and, as a consequence, some 
 valuable meadow-land. The settlers' houses comfortablej 
 with no want of eggs, bacon, &c., but in other respects,' 
 strictly temperance. The country gradually improved 
 as we approached Amherst, which we did not reach until 
 the evening, and where I found a tolerably comfortable 
 hotel for the size of the place. ^ 
 
 Amherst may be the germ of a town of ^ome future 
 importance. On looking round it next /morning, I 
 found it to be at present a small place, consisting' of 
 little more than a few straggling houses. It is situ- 
 ated on the confines of the province, where the neck of 
 land connects it with its inH^ province of New Bruns- 
 
 
TO THE UNITED 8TATES, 
 
 109 
 
 wick ; on the Bay of Fundy shoro of which a great 
 tract of alluviul or ilyko hind has been formed, by the 
 causes which have l"d to the same formation within the 
 Basin of Mines, already more iiarticulany described. It 
 is very valuable, and said already to sell for a <;ood price 
 considering the infant state of the colony ; Ft is never- 
 theless not pleasing to look at, being perfectly level, 
 devoid of trees, and railed off in every direction by tlio 
 zig-zag fence. To this land Amherst probably owes its 
 origin, as does the village or town of Sackvillo on the 
 opposite or New Brunswick side, where I was going on 
 a visit to a triend whom I had known in England, where 
 he had been on a mission connected with the public 
 affairs of his province. 
 
 Wednesday 17th.— To Sackville my landlord drove 
 me over in his waggon, a distance of about ten miles, on 
 a road over the dyke land in question—the boundary- 
 line of the two provinces, crossing it at a right ano-le 
 abcut half way. ^ 
 
 The isthmus itself may be about ten or twelve miles 
 in breadth, from sea to sea ; four miles of which may 
 consist of a ridge or neck, the rest, of the alluvial land 
 in question on either side. 
 
 My friend had acquired a large fortune in his province 
 by trade ; had been Speaker of its House of Eepresenta- 
 tives, and, on his mission to England, had married an 
 English lady, with whom I found him comfortably do- 
 mesticated, and the father of three children. I met with 
 I wann roueption from both. 
 
 Next day, in a long drive, I saw some commanding 
 views of the Bay of Fundy, which narrows here very 
 ruuch, enlarging occasionally in a succession of basin- 
 hke bays, in one of which a large vessel was riding 
 quarantine, full of emigrants for St. John; they had not 
 
110 
 
 REOOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ^" Si! 
 
 been allowed to land, in reference to some disease among 
 them, real or fiuspected. 
 
 In the evening an opportunity was given me to see 
 some of the neighbours, a party being made for the 
 purpose. 
 
 On one occasion I accompanied my friend to an agri- 
 cultural nieetmg and cattle-bbow, at which he presided ; 
 the meeting consisted of honest farmers, proprietors of 
 the lands they cultivated. The rattle-show would have 
 rather surprised those at home, accustomed to our 
 annual exhibition at the Baker Street Bazaar— it con- 
 sisted of one horse and one bull, both for the purposes of 
 breeding. The horse had been purchased in Prince 
 Edward's Island by a farmer, deputed for th<^ purpose, at 
 the joint expense, and seemed to give satisfaction ; the 
 bull was of the Durham breed, and had been reared in 
 the neighbourhood— both were considered to )}e well 
 adapted for the object in view. The horse, it appeared, 
 h.id been bred by a Scotch farmer, who had given him' 
 the name of King Kobert Bruce— he was now dubbed 
 Iloncesvalles by common consent; his price was,! think, 
 with some allowance for expenses, £60 currency. The 
 bull was offered for £20, and purchased by the 'farmers 
 for £17, 10s., both currency. The farmers conducted 
 themselves respectably throughout the proceedings. 
 
 My friend having given me some useful hints as to 
 my tour, and some letters, I took leave of him by the 
 mail for St. John, on the afternoon of Sunday the 21st— 
 travelling on this day contrary to my wont, there being 
 no other mail until Thursday, and time pressing. We 
 passed through Dorchester, in the vicinity of which there 
 is a large tract of dyke land ; we stopped on the road 
 at a late hour for some rest and refreslmient, the night 
 cold and slightly rainy. Learning that it was intended 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Hi 
 
 that we were to go on in a new conveyance—an open 
 waggon, with the fare raised— we refused, in a body, to 
 stir, unless in the former covered carriage, which was 
 at last unwillingly conceded, the passengers tolerablv 
 agreeable. 
 
 We arrived about three p.m. the next day at St. John 
 much fatigued, where I took up mv abode in the St' 
 John's Hotel, the best in the town ; tbe bed-rooms 
 however, too small— a general defect in the British North 
 American provinces, as compared to their neighbours in 
 the United States. After diimer, I spent an hour or two 
 m lookmg about the town, which appeared to be an 
 active, thriving place ; many square-rigged vessels load- 
 ing with timber in its harbour. 
 
 New Brunswick is a valuable appendage of the British 
 Empire, and will be much more so, as it fills up from' 
 Its great capabilities ; besides, its climate being well 
 adapted to settlers from the mother country. It origin- 
 ally belonged to France ; but became ours as late as the 
 year 1763, when some enterprising colonists resorted to 
 It from home and the New England States— these were 
 largely increased at the close of the American war by 
 American loyalists and others, as its value began to be 
 better known. 
 
 It is as yet, however, very thinly settled— its popula- 
 tion being estimated at little more than 200 000 • the 
 province being, for by far the greater part, unoccupied 
 It IS bounded on one side by the Gulf of St. Lawrence 
 and on the other by the American State of Maine' 
 which, by the lute treaty with the United States Govern ' 
 ment, setthng the mutual boundary, is made to cut 
 rather awkwardly into it. It has likewise a fine extent 
 ot sea coast, with many deep, navigable rivers and lakes. 
 
 Its exports are chiefiy ships, timber, and 
 
 deals to 
 
U2 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 r 
 
 1^ ii 1 
 
 Europe ; fish, horses, and kimber to the "W est Indies ; 
 gypsum and grindstones to the United States. 
 
 The harbours all round the coast are favourable for 
 loading large ships ; but the harbour of St. John is not 
 only favourably situated in other respects, but being 
 likewise accessible to ships of the largest class at any 
 time in the winter, has decided advantages, and will 
 always be the chief port of the province. 
 
 The town of St. John is built mostly of wood, and has 
 suffered at diflferent times severely from fires— its popu- 
 lation may be about 30,000. 
 
 The lower orders are mostly Irish, who congregate 
 here in great numbers— all the hard work being done 
 by them, 
 
 I had heard much of the beauty and variety of the 
 scenery of the river St John, which I determined to see. 
 I therefore, on the morning of Wednesday the 24th, 
 took the steamer for Frederickton, the capital of the 
 province, a distance of eighty miles up the river ; the 
 fare 4s. 2d. sterling. Nor was I disrppointed ; the 
 river itself is affected by the tide to a certain extent, 
 l)ut as the aperture through which it empties itself into 
 the sea is narrow, on its ebb it seems to part with its 
 waters reluctantly. We consequently found ourselves on 
 a tranquil, full stream, forming occasionally large, lake- 
 like openings : at others, contracting its shores ; also 
 islands, consisting occasionally of long strips of alluvial 
 land. The river frontage, generally settled throughout, 
 beyond which was a wild, gloomy forest, everywhere 
 appearing to have no bounds. 
 
 I discovered that I had got into the slowest and worst 
 boat that plies ; the night gradually drew in upon us, 
 when, finding we were not likely to ariive before raid- 
 night, I turned into bed by the captain's advice. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 113 
 
 Next moraiug I breakfasted at a hotel close to the 
 wharf, where I took up my quarters for the time being • 
 It turned out to be a very good house, with pleasant 
 society, with whom I could converse. 
 
 Frederickton, the capital of the province, is as yet a 
 small town ; it is regularly laid out on a level bend of 
 the river, probably an alluvial deposit from it, immediately 
 bounded by a sloping surface of high ground behind • the 
 opposite bank being of a like character, consequently it 
 18 well protected on both sides-its population may be 
 about 4000. ^ 
 
 Nor are the trees in its neighbourhood too much 
 cleared away, contrary to the usual error in that respect 
 I was pleased with the cottage and grounds of one 
 gentleman, in particular, who had made a very pretty 
 place for himself, by merely removing and thinning the 
 original forest to suit his purpose. 
 
 In going over Government House, a full-length por- 
 trait of Lord Glenelg was pointed out to me, which I 
 recollected to have seen in the Exhibition in London as 
 purporting to have been painted for the express pur- 
 pose ; his Lordship, liaviBg become known to the pro- 
 vince m his capacity of Colonial Secretary, seemed to be 
 Jield m great respect and esteem. 
 
 A church was in progress of building, of stone, partly 
 at the expense of the bishop, to be his cathedral It 
 appeared to be in good taste, but the foundation is said to 
 be bad. He had sent for the stone either to England or 
 Normandy, and had it worked at home. It appeared to 
 be soit, and in some places already damaged ; good hard 
 stone being to be found on the spot, had the bishop 
 been contented with it, which would probably have been 
 
 htTobb '* ^'' ^'''^' ^^'' '^'""'^ ''' "' ^^^^ ^' ^"PP^'^^^^' 
 
 H 
 
114 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 The great outcry here, and at St. John, was that " no- 
 thing is doing, the times are very bad," and so forth. 
 Yet I saw everywhere indications to the contrary— saw- 
 mills at work, rafts of timber on the river, with much 
 activity in shipping it. Prices are lowered, probably in 
 consequence of the timber trade being thrown open to 
 the northern ports of Europe, by the recent reduction of 
 the duties, and some depression may be the consequence ; 
 nevertheless, the quantity sliipped for England is said 
 to increase vastly and progressively, while the manufac- 
 tured goods of the mother-country are to be had in re- 
 turn as cheap as at home. Having returned to St. John 
 bv a 1 -etter boat, — 
 
 On Tuesday 30th, nine a.m., I embarked on board a 
 steam-boat (the Maid of Erin) plying to Eastport and 
 Portland, in communication with the railroad from the 
 latter place to Boston, taking a ticket for the whole way : 
 fare, £1, 13s. 6d. sterling. The passage proved stormy in 
 the extreme— a head wind and heavy sea, with continued 
 rain. We touched at Eastport, the boundary line of the 
 British province, to part with and take up passengers. 
 Next raoining the storm increased ; we passed a schooner 
 laden with lumber, water-logged, and deserted by her 
 crew; part of her deck cargo, washed overboard and 
 floating about in all directions, appearing to consist of 
 billets of firewood ; the masts still standing ; the sails 
 ftillen down and partly covering the deck — the whole a 
 painful picture of distress. 
 
 Our steamer was apparently old and badly arranged 
 — the passengers numerous and very sea-sick, with a 
 good many Irish emigrants, recently come out, as deck 
 passengers. To mend matters, something went wrong 
 in the steam boiler ; at last, much jaded and fatigued, 
 we contrived to reach Portland harbour in the dark. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 115 
 
 when we were visited by a custom-house officer, who 
 however, allowed my baggage (consisting of two krpet 
 
 hotel, as late as twelve o'clock, much exhausted. 
 
 The landlord thinking me only a customer for the 
 mght, took me in with reluctance, contriving to give me 
 the worst room in his house. b^e me 
 
 offhlT„wn°?'?T^'-''T™'''^"''''^*°S'''<'W«"»''»« 
 of the town I determmed to remain a few days With 
 
 this view (al hough not usual), I obtained, as a stran." 
 
 from the railroad authorities, permission to use my own' 
 
 with a bX 7 T'""^"^ *'■"• ^ ™» -oommodated 
 with a better bed-room at my hotel, which was in other 
 respects comfortable. 
 
lit) 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 f! 
 
 VII 
 
 i,! f 
 
 CHAPTEK XVI. 
 
 I'ORTLANO — BOSTON EDUCATION IIAUVAUD UNIVKKSITY 
 
 FEMALE ARISTOCRACY — PLYMOUTH — PURITAN PILGRIMS 
 
 SHIPPING LAW COURTS LOWELL KACTOIUES— NEWHAVEN 
 
 — LONG ISLAND SOUND. 
 
 Portland, the largest town in the State of Maine, in 
 point of wealth, commerce, and population, is beautifully 
 situated — crowning a peninsula in Casco bay. Beinj^ 
 regularly laid out, and handsomely built on the brow of 
 a rising ground, it presents a fine view from the sea. 
 
 Its si)acious harbour is safe, deep, and easy of access, 
 at the same time land-locked by narrow islands. Its 
 population may be about 15,300. 
 
 Thursday, June 1st.— I spent tiiis day in looking 
 about tlie town and its vicinity, with both of which I 
 was much pleased. I remarked the comfort, cleanliness, 
 absence of poverty, and general look of quiet respecta- 
 bility so common to the United States. 
 
 The lotus-tree is planted here and there on the verge 
 of the footpatli of the principal street ; its green leaves 
 contrasting agreeably with the glare of the sun, its shade 
 acceptable in the hot, dry atmospheie of an American 
 summer. 
 
 No wine or brandy was to be had at my hotel— the 
 tempcpince movement being in full operation. 
 June 2d. — I spent this day in visiting the observatory 
 
 
Its 
 
 TO TF^E UNITED STATES. Hj 
 
 liill, in the immediate neighbourhood of the town com- 
 . mandmg a fine view of its inland waters and numerous 
 IS ands ; and where I met, and renewed my acquaintance 
 y>nh, a Boston friend. 
 
 June 3d.-I took a warm bath ; a custom I never 
 neglect when an opportunity offers, but at present a 
 necessary refreshment after the voyage from St. John 
 where I had spent an uncomfortable night without un- 
 clressmg. Ihe charge very moderate, only twenty cents 
 or tenponce of our money. ' 
 
 Sunday, 4th June.-I went to the Episcopal church 
 accompanymg a family who, on my asking the hour of 
 Divme service, kindly offered me a seat in their pew 
 lie service was well conducted, and a good sermon 
 followed the prayers, which on the present occasion were 
 shortened, but this might be because the sacrament was 
 to be adiiimistered. 
 
 The Voluntary system is prevalent, as I have already 
 observed, throughout the whole of the United States-1 
 there being no connexion between Church and State 
 It is tound to answer very well-each congregation 
 selecting and paying their own pastor. His stipend, in 
 this case, I learned to be 1000 dollars per annum or 
 about 200 guineas of our money-a moderate, but fair 
 allowance, considering the low prices that rule in this 
 part of the Union. In the evening, I walked to the 
 cemetery outside the town, laid out in the new orna- 
 mental style, and apparently a favourite resort of the 
 townsfolk. 
 
 Monday, June 5th.-A gentleman introduced himself 
 to me to-day, by asking me if I was related to the late 
 Professor Playfair. On my expressing my surprise at 
 the question, my uncle having been long dead, he ex- 
 plained himself by telling me that the Professor's Euclid 
 
118 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ii 
 
 had been his class-book at college. He showed rae much 
 civility, proposing a walk to the railway recently com- 
 menced between this town and Montreal, from which 
 great advantages are proposed to it as a shipping port 
 for that part of Canada. The wages of the labourers 
 upon which, I learned to be a dollar and upwards per 
 diem. We continued our walk to the observatory, which 
 we ascended to enjoy its extensive view, returning after- 
 wards leisurely to our hotel, conversing on such local 
 particulars as are interesting to a stranger. 
 
 At three o'clock p.m. I continued my route to Boston 
 per railroad ; the cars full— I, however, got a comfortable 
 seat. The weather cloudy and rainy, but the country 
 looking green and well ; we crossed the Merrimack river 
 over a long covered bridge, and passed through Haver- 
 hill, and other thriving manufacturing towns ; the land 
 through which our route lay being in some places un- 
 cleared ; the soil generally appeared, as far as I could 
 judge from the railway cuttings^ to be light and sandy. 
 
 We arrived safely at Boston about a quarter past 
 eight o'clock ; the distance being about 105 miles, i.e., 
 at the rate of twenty miles an hour ; the train not ex- 
 press, as we made various stoppages to take up and put 
 down ; it appeared to me that the speed was sufficient 
 under the circumstances, and that the railway was pro- 
 perly constructed, and well regulated. 
 
 On my arrival at Boston, I got into a conveyance for 
 my old quarters, at the Winthrope House, where I was 
 at once recognised, and got a comfortable room, which 
 in my case is a great desideratum ; my state of health 
 not admitting of the contrary; after some tea, I was 
 very glad to go to bed, a good deal fatigued. 
 
 Tuesday 6th, the day rainy and damp, with an un- 
 pleasant wind blowing ; I walked about nevertheless a 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 119 
 
 great part of the morning, visited Fanuel Hall, where 
 I saw the portraits of Washington, of John Hancock 
 (whose name figures to the declaiation of indej)endence, 
 as chairman of the Congress assembled for the purpose)' 
 and of other worthies of bygone times. I recognised 
 several of my old acquaintances at the hotel, who were all 
 very civil, and who had not forgotten my daughters, in 
 particular. 
 
 I remarked to-day, as before, the general appearance 
 of comfort and wealth, accompanied by the quiet and 
 orderly behaviour of the townspeople (which I have 
 often had occasion to observe in the towns of the Union) 
 ■—what we call rows, or street mobs, 1 have nowhere as 
 yet seen or heard ; this is no doubt, among other causes, 
 in part owing to the education and general comfortable 
 condition of the lower orders ; the tera})erance move- 
 ment must also not be overlooked, accompanied as it is 
 by the general religious and moral tone of society. 
 
 Thirty thousand pounds per annum are supposed to 
 be levied on the town alone for public schools, while 
 three times that amount is levied throughout the State 
 dispensing education to the young population generally^ 
 of whatsoever religious sect, at the public cost ; this is 
 as it ought '\ is f,nmd to work well. When we 
 
 bear in miuv* -irge portion of society the lower 
 
 classes form in , .immunities, and the political privi- 
 
 leges conceded to them, in particular, throughout the 
 Union, too much importance cannot be attached to their 
 wellbeing, of which, from what I have observed, the good 
 fruits may be inferred to be visible. 
 
 Wednesday, 7th.— After breakfast I took the omnibus 
 for the Auburn cemetery. I found the grounds diversi- 
 fied, and in good order ; the early foliage beautiful, the 
 monuments, many of them of marble, in good taste. I 
 
!! 
 
 120 
 
 IlECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 walked, on my return, to the neighbouring village of 
 Cambridge, to see Harvard University ; first taking the 
 library, which was of large extent, and contained in a 
 new building constructed for the purpose, of granite, in 
 the Gothic style ; said to be in imitation of a building 
 at our university of Cambridge, in England; at all 
 events well adapted for the purpose : from thence I was 
 conducted to the museum, in a separate building ; the 
 ground-floor of which was a hall of convocation, on the 
 walls of which were hung many portraits of public cha- 
 racters, benefactors to the college, and others, painted 
 by Copley, an artist of merit, a native of this town, of 
 whom Boston is justly proud, and known in England 
 (wheie he also practised professionally) as the father of 
 our distinguished Tory chancellor, Lord Lyndhurst. 
 
 This university is the oldest, most richly endowed, 
 and most important literary institution of the United 
 States. It has a president, and a full staff of professors, 
 and qualifies students (generally about 450 in number) 
 for every branch of literature and science, at a moderate 
 cost. 
 
 On reaching town, I called on my friend the British 
 consul, who promised to procure me the necessary order 
 of admission to the Lowell factories ; I then learned at 
 a money-changer's that I could change my English for 
 American gold, at the rate of four dollars and eighty- 
 four cents per sovereign. 
 
 At dinner to-day I had for the first time this season 
 a dessert of strawberries and cream. These strawberries 
 are of the small Scotch or Swiss kinds, and grow very 
 plentifully throughout the northern states of the Union, 
 as well as in the British provinces, principally in a wild 
 state. 
 
 Thursday, Sth.—A determined rainy day. I w^nt out 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 121 
 
 nevertheless, principally to see the collection of pictures 
 and curiosities at the AthenoDum, but found that the 
 pictures, &c., were not to be seen until Monday ; I was 
 shown the library, however, which was extensive and 
 well-selected, being proprietary, and a share worth 
 about £60 steriing, with certain privileges as to admit- 
 ting friends. I was permitted as a stranger to remain to 
 read Mr. Dickens' book on America, which, in reference 
 to the weather, I availed myself of. I passed the even- 
 ing pleasantly with friends, one of whom was from 
 Scotland, who gave me letters to Philadelphia. 
 
 Friday, 9th.— Weather still rainy— donned my cloak 
 and went to the Athenaeum club, and continued Mr. 
 Dickens' book. In the evening I accompanied a friend 
 to see the Italian opera of Ernani. An opera is to me 
 a dull affair. The performance seemed respectably got 
 up, the audience fashionable. The curtain rose a quarter 
 before eight, and we were out by half-past ten, there 
 being no ballet ; price of pit and boxes one-half dollar, 
 there being only one higher price, a dollar, for what was 
 called the Parquiet boxes, forming a small semicircle 
 projecting beyond the lower circle into the pit, and over- 
 looking it. I had here an opportunity of observing the 
 female aristocracy of Boston, celebrated throughout the 
 Union for their beauty ; they are certainly handsome, 
 generally tall slender figures, with a gracefully turned 
 neck and shoulders, and a finely-chiselled countenance ; 
 but the complexion of our English ladies is wanting! 
 They are also said to arrive early at maturity, and to fade 
 sooii ; whether it be from the extremes of their climate, 
 or from whatever other cause, they do not appear to take 
 sufficient exercise in the open air, for robust health. 
 Our ladies at home have a moderate climate that admits 
 of walking exercise in the open air, m.ore or less all the 
 
123 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 (1, i 
 
 year round,— an advantn«;e probably not sufliciently ap- 
 prcciatod ; they are also like otlier home-plants of slow 
 growth, retaining' their good looks for a long time. 
 
 Boston, while it is a })k>asant town coniir'inding good 
 society, is, as coni[)ared with our prices at home, a elrea[) 
 place of residence, with considerable equality in condi- 
 tion ; there are some few, no doubt, as everywhere, very 
 rich, but many for the most part independent, or in easy 
 circumstances, with probably fortunes of about 50,00() 
 dollars, yielding, at the rate of interest to be had on good 
 security, an income of about £700 per annum, which 
 here commands a carriage witli every convenience of 
 genteel lite that shoukl accompany it. 
 
 Saturday, 10th.— Finished Mr. Dickens' book at the 
 Athenteum : passed the evening pleasantly with friends ; 
 slavery the topic of conversation ; disapproved of in un- 
 qualified terms. 
 
 Sunday, 1 1th.— Accompanied a friend to the Episcopal 
 service. Afterwards I accompanied my friend in a walk 
 where he pointed out to me the new Athenaeum in' 
 course of completion, Mr. Hancock's house fronting the 
 Common, the house in which Franklin was born," and 
 several other objects of curiosity, with much civility on 
 his part ; passed the evening in pleasant conversation 
 with the ladies in the drawing-room of my hotel. 
 
 Monday 0th June.— I went this morning to visit the 
 monument erected on Bunker's Hill, to commemorate 
 the battle fought there, between our troops and the 
 Colonial militia, commanded by Colonel Prescott, at the 
 commencement of the revolutionary war ; it crowns the 
 hill (which is a suburb of the town) in the middle of a 
 raised square grass-plot, in the form of an obelisk ; it is 
 built of granite, the corner-stone having been laid by 
 General Lafayette in 1825, and was completed as late 
 
 i I': 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 123 
 
 as the year 1842 ; its heij^ht is 220 feet. I ascended it 
 by a spiral staircase, in tiie interior, being first furnisbed 
 with a lantern. On arriving at the top, I commanded 
 a fine panoramic view of the town and neighbonrhood 
 on every side, throngb fonr largo windows, or open aper- 
 tures ; on descending, I purchased for one-half dolhir, 
 the panoramic view in question, accompanied by a view 
 of the monument itself, with some letter-press giving 
 its history, and also the history of the battle it com- 
 memorates. 
 
 On my return, I changed some of my British for 
 American gold, at the rate of four dollars eighty-six cents 
 (£1, 3d. sterling) for Victoria sovereigns— a good price, 
 these being in repute, because they are the newest and 
 consequently least worn ; on the others you lose a cent 
 or two as the case may be, the St. George and Dragon 
 sovereign being the least valuable. 
 
 Tuesday, ISth.—Pjissed the morning in changing some 
 more of my gold at the above price. I then called on 
 the British consul, for my ticket for the Lowell factories ; 
 afterwards proceeding to the Athenajum, where I was 
 permitted by the librarian, as a stranger, to see the pic- 
 tures, statuary, &c., although not yet open to the public. 
 I then sought out the depot of the Plymonth Kailway, 
 which was not far distant from my hotel, having "a 
 natural curiosity to see the spot where the Pilo-rim 
 Fathers first landed. '^ 
 
 Wednesday, 14th.— After an early breakfast, I set oflf 
 accordmgly by the quarter before seven o'clock train for 
 Plymouth, a distance of thirty-seven miles, which we 
 accomplished in less than two hours. I observed, by the 
 cuttings of the railway, the land to be generally poor; 
 m appearance sandy gravel, full of stones, but otherwise 
 undulating and covered with a rich verdure,— the result 
 
124 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 I 
 
 ■ ? 
 
 of the recent rains ; the viUages clean and comfortable 
 m appearance, as I had occasion to observe everywhere 
 in New England. 
 
 Plymouth is considered classic ground, in this part 
 of America, as the oldest settlement in New England, 
 being the landing-place of the celebrated Puritans from' 
 the Mayflower, in 1620 ; and as such, 1 took a peculiar 
 mterest in it. Its bay is spacious and sheltered, but too 
 shallow for the purposes of commerce: it consequently has 
 never risen to any magnitude; its settlement or state of 
 Plymouth becoming subsequently merged in the state of 
 Massachusetts ; it is at present little more than a village, 
 or watering-place, with a population of about 5000. 
 
 The first settlers suflfered extreme privations here, at- 
 tended by a great mortality. On a mound which runs 
 parallel behind the town, stands the church and burying- 
 ground. In a break through the middle of this mound 
 runs a stream of fresh water into the sea ; tracing this 
 to its source, a distance of about two miles, I came'iipon 
 a fine sheet of wa*er, surrounded by the primeval forest 
 very much in the state, no doubt, that the first settlers 
 found it, the ground surrounding it appearing to consist 
 of little else than sand. The beauty of this lake in the 
 fine sunsjhine, the silence of its forest, and the absence 
 of man, seemed to give it a melancholy interest as con- 
 nected with the pilgrims ; it is known by the name of 
 Billington's Sea, from a person of that name— a son, I 
 believe, of one of the pilgrims, on ascending a tree the 
 better to look about him— having been the first to dis- 
 cover it, intimating to the little community that he saw 
 the sea, or a sea, in that direction. 
 
 On returning, I observed that the stream, shortly after 
 issuing from the lake, had been made to turn a mill 
 now gone to decay. ' 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 125 
 
 I now visited Pilgrim Hall, a oeat building of granite 
 with a Doric portico of six columns. I found it to con- 
 tam a large painting of the landing from the Mayflower ; 
 the chair of Governor Carver ; the sword-blade of Cap- 
 tarn Miles Standish, with several other curious relics. 
 There was nothing in these relics that indicated a high 
 state of the arts ; what interested me most was the well- 
 thumbed Bibles, dated 1620. I remarked that the print- 
 ing had then very much reached the state in which it 
 has come down to our day. I then adjourned to the 
 hotel, a large commodious building, commanding a fine 
 view, to a good dinner in company with several others, 
 to which however we hud nothing but water to drink. 
 
 Little more than two centuries have elapsed since the 
 Puritan pilgrims found this neighbourhood a howlin<r 
 wilderness, impeded in their early efforts by the poverty 
 of its soil, and by the savage tribes which surrounded 
 them ; I found it the abode of peace and security— a por~ 
 tion of the flourishing Republic they had contributed to 
 colonize ; reaching it at my ease, by the greatest inven- 
 tion of modern times, from a distance of thirty-seven 
 miles, to return the same day by the same easy convey- 
 ance. The fare each way was one dollar; the day's 
 expenses comprehended in three dollai-s. 
 
 Thursday, 15th.— I passed this morning in visiting tlie 
 shipping of the port, which was numerous, and well 
 arranged at the different wharves, in reference to the 
 l)laces to which they trade ; a very bustling scene, the 
 harbour alive with vessels arriving and departing. I had 
 the curiosity to go on board an English liner, the Ocean 
 Monarch (since destroyed by fire on her passage)— the 
 accommodations seemed good, the cabin fare home eighty 
 dollars. I afterwards read the Times newspaper, mar- 
 velling at the state of affairs in France. 
 
L i a w u w tfUt y iiff - 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 11 
 
 l!i 
 
 126 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 Friday, 16tli. — This morning I visited the law-courts, 
 but found none of them sitting ; I then entered the 
 municipal or police court, where, after several minor 
 cases were disposed of, the next in the list was that of a 
 man for selling spirits without a license, for which he 
 was fined forty dollars, with costs of prosecution. 
 
 I next visited the museum, containing portraits of 
 Washington and others, including the Presidents from 
 first to last ; many natural curiosities, with busts of 
 Washington, Lord Byron, Sir Walter Scott, Mr. Dickens, 
 and others ; a cast of the Venns by Canova, with many 
 other objects of interest, returning to my hotel much 
 fatigued, the day being very warm. 
 
 Monday, 19th.— Having procured the usual order of 
 admission, through the British consul, I this morning 
 took the railroad for Lowell, a distance of twenty-six 
 miles, on a visit to its factories. 
 
 Lowell is the Manchester of the United States, and 
 every stranger, possessing any curiosity, is expected to 
 visit it. Its machinery is moved by water-power, of 
 which it possesses a vast amount. Unlike its prototype 
 in England, it is a clean, healthy-looking place, of re- 
 cent origin, regularly laid out, built of brick, surrounded 
 by pleasant hills and valleys, and seated on the Merri- 
 mack River, below Pawtucket Falls, at its junction with 
 the river Concord. The population about 35,000. 
 
 The water-power is furnished by a canal about one 
 mile and a half long, commencing at the head of 
 Pawtucket Falls, which have a descent of thirty-one feet. 
 From the main canal the water is carried by lateral 
 canals to the mills and manufactories. There are 
 thirteen large manufacturing companies, having nineteen 
 mills and 250 houses — employing a capital of 12,000,000 
 dollars, and 9235 operatives, of whom upwards of 6000 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 127 
 
 are females, making 76,000,000 yards of cloth, and 
 14,000,000 yards printed calico per annum ; payino- for 
 labour 1,500,000 dollars per annum, and consuming 
 annually 12,500 tons of coal, 3270 cords of wood"* 
 61,100 bales of cotton, 47,000 gallons of oil, 600 000 
 bushels of charcoal, and 800.000 lbs. of starch. Ex- 
 tensive as tliese statistics are, the manufactures are said 
 to be much on the increase. 
 
 A great amoimt and variety of other business is done, 
 besides that of the incorporated companies— such as 
 extensive powder-works, a bleachery, mills for flannels, 
 blankets, })aper-card factory, and various others, employ- 
 ing a large capital. 
 
 The operatives are neat and respectc-ble in appearance 
 and of good moral character. ' 
 
 A periodical, entitled, "The Lowell Offering," is 
 published monthly ; the articles written by the factory 
 girls, who are the daughters ot respectable farmers and 
 others, for whom there are boarding-houses in the town 
 at a moderate rate, and who come for a time to the fac- 
 tories to save a little money. Wages are said to average, 
 in addition to board and lodging, for females, one dollar 
 seventy-five cents-^.e., 7s. S^d. per week ; for males 
 seventy cents— i.e., 2s. lid. a day. 
 
 On presenting my ticket I was kindly received by the 
 late American ambassador, the head of one of the largest 
 proprietary firms. I then v'sited, in succession, the 
 cotton print-works, cotton spinning-works, and the 
 Middlesex factory of woollen cloths. I afterwards found 
 no difficulty, as a stranger, with any of the others, until 
 I had thoroughly satisfied my curiosity, when I took 
 some refreshment at a pastry-cook's, and returned to 
 Boston i^n the afternoon, very well pleased .vith my day's 
 r^7ijg aay's expenses— *.e., the railway train there 
 
 Work 
 
■m t^Piiiii K r » i" iiii| i # m 
 
 128 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 and back, including the refreshment, not exceeding one 
 dollar forty-four cents (7s. lOd.) 
 
 Manufacturing industry is but of recent origin in the 
 United States (Lowell, now so thriving, was a barren 
 spot in 1821, being incorporated into a town as late as 
 1826). Now, throughout the Northern States, wherever 
 water-power is available, a disposition to take advantage 
 of it is manifested ; these manufactures are as yet pro- 
 bably of the coarser kinds, being still chiefly dependent 
 on Great Britain for a large supply of the finer fabrics ; 
 with whom they cannot yet compete in any without 
 protective duties, for which they are clamorous, in con- 
 tradistinction to the Southern States, who, depending on 
 the mother-country as a ready market for their cotton, 
 rice, tobacco, and other raw produce, are desirous that 
 there should be no such duties. A moderate tariff, on 
 tiie principle of a compromise, has been the consequence ; 
 and it is said to be the great cause of the struggle be- 
 tween the two sections of the Union, for a balance of 
 power, if not a preponderance, in Congress, and for the 
 nomination of President. 
 
 It is difficult to convince a nation of its true interests, 
 because every one wants a monopoly of his own calling ; 
 and is content to conclude that what, it is self-evident, 
 would be beneficial to him must be so to others. I 
 have met with foolish people, who have contended that 
 America — meaning the United States — could supply 
 herself, and ought to be independent of the rest of the 
 world. To these I have contented myself with replying, 
 that it was so once when her inhabitants ran wild in the 
 woods, and that this argument, followed to its source, 
 could only tend to bring matters again to a like pass. 
 
 Tuesday, 20th.— I left Boston this morning at seven 
 
 O ClOUk iUl i-^^W iOift, vtU ui»illiQix<„iv.l dxivi J.-; V mite \\. 11, 
 
'S. 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 129 
 
 after a comfortable breakfast at the Winthrope, bnt 
 fafgued from httle sleep over nightman mc^onvenience 
 I generally experience when I arrange to travel early in 
 the mornmg and partly no doubt from the extreme heat 
 of the weather ; the day proved rainv,-an advan- 
 age, as ,t tended to cool the air. This is a favonS^e 
 line of route a«.t passes through the most interesting 
 wt^y, "i'^:,^"^^' »f Massachusetts and Connecticut 
 Wi h the first I was much pleased, from the variety and 
 beauty of the scenery throughout, the country hilly and 
 much wooded; the railway keeping the valleys and 
 generaUy in the neighbourhood of the streams. Fr'm 
 Springfield, where the railway branches off at an angle 
 for Newhaven, the country became more open, remind- 
 ing me, in common with the scenery peculiar to this 
 countoy, of English and Welsh views.' Keeping in tC 
 neighbourhood of the Connecticut Biver, a fine stream 
 
 l»T°^ Ar° •''°"*"^' ™'" "« ''"^^^ Newhaven, a 
 IZ ^°^*"™g. ">"". pleasantly situated on the ea 
 coast of the continental side of Long Island Sound, 
 about midway, where it forms a bay into which two 
 small nvers flow. This sound, or arm of the sea, whidt 
 separate Long Island from the mainland, is soiewTa 
 strangely caUed by the New Yorkers E^st Eiver; in 
 
 Z!h "" *" *" ^'"^""' ""^'^"^ ">«y desigiate 
 
 I regi^tted I had not given myself a day to see this 
 
 town, which merits the attention of a stmnger : it Z 
 
 «hi V^T^ ^ i""*"" '^ ^« ^"'l spacious, but 
 shallow, which IS no doubt the reason why it has not 
 risen to greater commercial importance 
 
 g2TZ''^^ "'''*"■**"* *■'"■ "^ ^"'^'''^^ «f Yale 
 Oo,lege-oae oi the most extensive in the Union, and 
 
 I 
 
aso 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 m ' 
 
 V % 
 
 said to have educated more eminent men than any 
 other. It has a president and thirty-one professors, and 
 a very valuable library of 34,500 volumes. 
 
 We continued our route by a large and commodious 
 steamer, through the Sound, commanding many fine 
 views on both sides, until it narrowed very much as we 
 gradually ran up between New York, with its &'• ■''"»^, 
 on one side, and Brooklyn on the other, witl. j* 
 spires in the distance, gilded by the setting sun, pre- 
 senting moving panoramic views, pleasing and animating 
 in the extreme. I reached my old quarters, the City 
 Hotel, about six o'clock, a good deal fatigued. 
 
 The fare from the one town to the other cost five 
 dollars (about one guinea). Dinner, half a dollar 
 (28. Id.) Conveyance from and to the hotels, &c., 
 seventy-seven cents (3s. Id.) Making the whole ex- 
 penses of this long journey of upwards of 200 miles, 
 only £1, 6s. 2d. 
 
 \ 
 
 V: 6 
 
I 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 131 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 NEW YORK— COURTS OF LAW— CUOTON nRIDGE— AQUEDUCT— 
 "dOMBEY AND SON"— BLACK POPULATION— CONVERSATION- 
 FINANCE— PHILADELPHIA —ATHEN^UM — FAIRMONT WATER- 
 WORKS—LAUREL HILL CEMETERY — THEATRE— PENn's HOS- 
 PITAL— GIRARD COLLEGE— EASTERN PENITENTIARY— MINT- 
 VOLUNTARY SYSTEM-DELAWARE RIVER— SCHUYLKILL RIVER 
 — LOWER ORDERS REPUDIATION. 
 
 Wednesday, 21st June.— I lost no time this morning 
 m visiting the post-office, where I found satisfactory 
 letters waiting me from my family in England, as well 
 as from my daughters in Nova Scotia. I afterwards 
 spent the morning in calling on my friends, and in look- 
 ing about the town, after which I returned a good deal 
 fatigued to my hotel. 
 
 Thursday, 22d.— Aftera warm bath (price one quarter 
 of a dollar), I called this morning upon a friend, whom 
 not finding at home, I entered the courts of law, where I 
 found the judges on the bench, without wig or gown, the 
 attorney pleading in evervday clothes (the attorneys are 
 also the barristers throughout the Union, as in the British 
 provinces) ; the witness under examination sitting at his 
 ease ; the examining attorney -Iso sitting ; nevertheless 
 the courts are spacious and well arranged, and justice is 
 understood to be strictly and ably administered. The 
 judges are not largely paid, according to our ideas ; from 
 
n ii i |iiwii i _ \n .» \' m f . <i m m [i 'm!*m m m''imfmimmm 
 
 132 
 
 UEOOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 what 1 could learn, their salaries do not exceed £600 
 or £700 per annum of our money. Each State has its 
 own courts and judges ; there are, besides, certain judges 
 appointed by the general Government, entitled United 
 States Judges, who make circuits throughout the States. 
 Their laws are the laws of England, ruled, as with us, 
 by precedents ; and they are said to have adopted some 
 beneficial improvements of late, more especially in the 
 chancery department, which it might be well for us to 
 follow. 
 
 Law is to be had on reasonable terms in Scotland, 
 where a man may seek redress in its courts at a moder- 
 ate cost. 
 
 Far diflferent is the case in England, where a Chancery 
 suit may bring ruin in its train, and where the expenses 
 of an action at common law are such, that it becomes a 
 question whether it be not good policy to compromise it, 
 however unjust. 
 
 Cromwell, as is well known, remarked that the law, 
 as practised in his day, worked more for the benefit of 
 the lawyers than the public, and attempted a reform in 
 which he failed, observing that the "sons of Zeruiah" 
 were too strong for him. 
 
 Let us hope that our distinguished law-officers and 
 statesmen, assisted by the Legislature, the press, and 
 the superior civilisation of the times, may be able to 
 effect what Cromwell could not. 
 
 The success of the County Courts Bill, and of the 
 Commission for the Sale of the Encumbered Estates in 
 Ireland, hold out good encouragement. 
 
 On descending from the law courts, 1 observed a 
 bookseller's stall under one of the staircases. On looking 
 over the books, I noticed Mr. Dickens' then new work 
 of " Dorabey and Son," at the moderate price of fifty 
 
TO THF UNITED STATES. 
 
 la.-j 
 
 and 
 
 f 
 
 cents. (28. Id.) This I secured, returning to the hotel 
 with my prize. 
 
 My room, although commodious enough in other 
 respects happened to be rather elevated. I had scarcely 
 ascended, and seated myself to turn over a few pajres 
 when I was startled by an Irishman looking in at the 
 window He was standing at the extremity of a very 
 long ladder, painting the outside of the window-frame 
 ^t his ease, in what appeared to me a very perilous posi- 
 
 <?J^^. ^"''*^^"' ^'^^" ''^""^ P^^* «f I'-eland are 
 you ? Cork, your honour," he replied. He seemed 
 much satisfied with the country, earning at his present 
 job fourteen York shillings per diem (7s. English money) 
 finding no difficulty in obtaining work at this rate of 
 wages ; being a single man, he paid from two to three 
 dollars per week for his board and lodging ; washing, he 
 said, he found expensive. 
 
 23d and 24th, I remained very much at home these 
 two days, reading « Dombey and Son," being unwell from 
 the extreme heat and close air of the town, havin- re- 
 course to the Congress-water, which was to be ha°d at 
 my hotel. 
 
 Sunday 25th.--I went out this morning by the Hartem 
 Railroad to see the Croton Bridge aqueduct, a distance 
 of about eight or nine miles; the cars full' of Sunday 
 tares, well dressed, seeking recreation after the toils of 
 the week. On approaching it, I was much alarmed and 
 surprised to observe some people, among others a lady, 
 walking on the parapet of the bridge, a great and per- 
 pendicular height from the river below 
 
 New York had suffered great inconvenience from 
 the want of a sufficient supply of good wat^r. It is now 
 supplied from the Croton river by very extensive works 
 commenced m 1837, and finished in 1842. The Croton 
 
1^1 
 
 < i 
 
 ^^i 
 
 11 
 
 134 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 is dammed six miles from its mouth, on the Hudson ; 
 the dam is 250 feet Jong, seventy wide at the bottom, 
 and forty feet high, built of stone and cement. It creates 
 a pond five miles long, covering a surface of 400 acres. 
 From this dam the aqueduct proceeds, sometimes tun^ 
 nelled through rocks, or by embankments through the 
 valley of the Hudson, thirty-three miles, until it reaches 
 Harlasm River, in the neighbourhood of the town. It 
 is built of stone, brick, and cement, arched over and 
 under, six feet three inches wide at bottom, seven feet 
 eight inches at the top of the side walls, which are eight 
 feet seven inches high ; has a descent of thirteen and a 
 quarter inches per mile, and will discharge 60,000,000 
 gallons in twenty-four hours. It crosses Harlaanj River, 
 which divides the Island of Manhattan, on which New 
 York stands, from the mainland, by the magnificent 
 bridge I came to see- -1450 feet long^ with fourteen 
 piers, 114 feet above tide water at the top. 
 
 The bridge being level and buill of stone at a great 
 cost, has an elegant light appearance. I ascended to the 
 top, expecting to find the water flowing directly through 
 the mason-work of the d ict ; this however is not the case. 
 There seemed to be a slight descent from the mouth of 
 the duct to reach the lovel of the bridge, over which the 
 water is conveyed in two cast-iron tubes of large dia- 
 meter ; on each side the bridge has two broad parapets 
 extending its whole length. 
 
 I returned to town to dinne. by the railroad, and 
 walked in the evening on the bavtery, the general pro- 
 menade, to enjoy the cool air from the sea, and to get a 
 peep at the citizens. 
 
 Monday 26th.— I called on my clansman, Mr. Play- 
 fair, the upholsterer ; reading at intervals Dombey and 
 Son. 
 
I 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 135 
 
 Wednesday 28th.--I went down this morning to the 
 water side, where I saw the Hendrich Hudson, a fine 
 London liner, with comfortable berths, and every con- 
 venience for passengers ; fare home, seventy- Jve dollars 
 (£15, 12s. 6d.) Afterwards I went over by the steam- 
 boat ferry to Jersey city, the capital of the state of New 
 Jersey (which lies on the opposite coast of this magnifi- 
 cent inner basin), but otherwise a small town of little 
 account, to pass the day with a friend at his villa in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 Thursday, 29th.— I brought my perusal of Dombey 
 and Son to a cor elusion. I found Mr. Dickens had 
 written a book that I could take up with pleasure, re- 
 sume without reluctance, and bring to a close without 
 ennui, which, of itself, implies considerable merit ; be- 
 yond this I think it scarcely sustains his early reputation. 
 Some of the minor characters are clever sketches ; but 
 the merchant, his family, and others, are failures, as he 
 always appears to me to fail where he attempts genteel 
 life. 
 
 Sir Walter Scott possessed that rare faculty in a writer 
 —the power of portraying individual character ; in this 
 we <ind him true to nature, whether he lifts the curtain 
 over the Scottish Privy Council, conducts us to the 
 palace of a king, to a robber's den, to the fastness of a 
 Highland chief, or to the wallet of a blue-coat beggar. 
 
 7.'his peculiar excellence of Sir Walter has given rise 
 to a host of imitators, who arrange their machinery, and 
 endeavour to work in their sketches on his model ; and 
 in so far, novel-writing is raised above its former standard. 
 Of these, Mr. Dickens may be s-iid to be one of the 
 most successful, above all, in his pathetic pictures of 
 humble life ; his method of publishing in monthly num- 
 bers is also in his favour, as a clever sketch becomes 
 
r" 
 
 111 
 
 II 
 
 in 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ■; 
 
 necessary for each— twenty pages taken up in the de- 
 scription of a dress, a celhir, or an old castle, would not 
 suit his mode of publishing, although made to come in 
 very well, in a novel of three volumes. 
 
 I passec! a few days more in this town with my friends, 
 very much incommoded by the extreme heat, which 
 I endeavoured to control by abstemiousness in diet, 
 quenching an inordinate thirst by soda-water. 
 
 The black population of New York is very large, as 
 I had an opportunity to witness on some annual festival 
 of theirs, when the men came out from a side street, in 
 long procession, extendiug far up Broadway, with ban- 
 ners flying, and music playing, occupying the carriage- 
 way, all well dressed ; the black women also in their 
 best clothes, lining the foot pavement, to see it pass. I 
 beheld this scene with great interest, and stood in the 
 midst of them ; it was evidently a grand holiday of theirs 
 (and seemed, as such, to be respected by their white 
 brothers), while I witnessed nothing but self-respect 
 and cheerfulness in their countenances. 
 
 The greater part of this population, no doubt, con- 
 sists of household servants, and others in minor employ- 
 ments ; but there are many respectable tradesmen 
 amongst them, some said to be very rich. 
 
 It is difficult to define the feeling of superiority over 
 them evinced by the white race ; it does not show itself 
 in personal dislike, as I witnessed on this occasion, and 
 on others, where I have seen them about their persons 
 as barbers, and with their mistresses as nurses to their 
 children, if we had not proof of it in their laudable desire 
 for the abolition of slavery. 
 
 It S'?3ms to be conventional, and willingly conceded 
 by the others, who seem to understand that they must 
 keep aloof and associate by themselves. 
 
 
 111 
 
TO TRK UNITED STATKS. 
 
 1S7 
 
 con- 
 
 A separate place is assigned to them in the churclies 
 in the railway trains, and in the tlioatros 
 
 On one occasion, Kngland was spoken of as on the 
 dec me, while its overflowing capital, it was said, must 
 find Its way to them ; in bar of this last proposition, I 
 put in the repudiating States; in regard to the fii^t I 
 explained to them that England was advancing like a 
 young country, not an old one ; that she had repeatedly 
 outgrown the pressure of her debt, as she was in the 
 way of doing now ; this the intelligent part of the com- 
 pany admitted and spoke of the public debt of Great 
 Bntam as nothing, when compared with her resources, 
 and the magnitude of her transactions 
 
 Mr Hume in his day, a hundred years ago, deprecated 
 what he considered the ruinous practice of forestalling 
 and mortgaging our revenue; concluding that it could 
 not be carried much further without a national bank- 
 ruptcy Our national debt was a trifle then to what 
 It has become since, and yet his fears have not been 
 realized. 
 
 Mr. Hume seems to have overlooked, that the interest 
 of the debt 18 in great part paid by the productive 
 industiy of the country; and who can venture to set 
 limits to that .? the looms of our manufacturing towns 
 are now at work to meet the expenses of the last war 
 
 Dr. Johnson, as Mr. Boswell tells us, observed that 
 there was no cause of uneasiness in regard to the debt 
 on the part of the nation at large, as the interests of 
 thousands must give way to the interests of millions • 
 or words to that effect ; nor does it require the gift of 
 prophecy to foresee what must be the ultimate result, 
 It we go on as we have hitherto done. 
 
 A system of finance that enabled us to carry on such 
 a w„. ,^ „ae laot, uu tue easy terms of drawing on 
 
It 
 f 
 
 138 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 Itii 
 
 .11^ t 
 
 futurity^ if used .is not abusing it, has nevertheless its 
 advantages. 
 
 The nations of antiquity met the difficulty by hoard- 
 ing treasure in times of peace — an admitted evil, inas- 
 much as, by withdrawing the coin from circulation, it 
 tended to cramp industry. 
 
 In India and elsewhere, where the practice of hoard- 
 ing, on the part of the native princes, has come down to 
 our day, the great body of the people are found to be 
 poor and indolent. 
 
 All that we have to do to meet any such emergency, 
 is to take care that our credit be such, that we can 
 enter the money-market on reasonable terms. 
 
 It is a curious question in political economy, whether, 
 and in how far, our present commercial prosperity is 
 owing to our public debt, and the credit system on which 
 it is based ; one effect certainly is, to bring all our 
 available pecuniary resources into the market — i.e., to 
 make money plentiful, and consequently cheap. 
 
 The conduct of the repudiating States of the Union, 
 compels the merchants of New York, whose fault it is 
 not, to pay enormously for the use of money. 
 
 Tuesday, 4th July. — The heat more bearable to-day. 
 I packed my carpet-bags, paid my bill at the hotel, and 
 prepared to leave for Philadelphia, for which town I 
 found there were two lines of railwpy, one proceeding 
 direct from the town of New Jersey. I happened to 
 take the other (the Amboy line), going the first twenty- 
 eight miles by water. At one o'clock, therefore, I em- 
 barked in a fine large steamer, making directly for 
 Staten Island, at the other side of the harbour, about 
 four miles distant, where I was much struck with the 
 beauty of the scenery, as we got midway ; the country 
 skirting the water, rising like an amphitheatre, covered 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 139 
 
 with the country-seats of the New York merchants ; 
 Staten Island, m particular, looking green from the 
 ate rains, our route running between it and the main- 
 land of ^ew Jersey, both shores looking well, with great 
 variety m the views as we receded further from New 
 J .r channel contracting in the first instance, 
 and then expanding as we gradually approached the 
 open sea. We took the cars at South Amboy, and ran 
 through a part of the country of New Jersey, which had 
 a barren sandy look ; the grain crops mostly thin and 
 poor, the Indian corn crops better ; passing a villa, built 
 by Joseph Buonaparte, the ex-King of Spain, and where 
 he or some of his family were then residing; until we 
 reached the Delaware (here a broad river), directly 
 opposite the town of Philadelphia, where we took an- 
 other steamer, which brought us to our journey's end 
 about SIX m the afternoon ; making, on the whole, a 
 rr^i. f •^''* excursion. I immediately proceeded to 
 the Washington House Hotel, in Chestnut Street, a 
 black porter carrying my luggage. The fare by this 
 route was three dollars-a distance of ninety miles • my 
 other expenses between the two hotels not exceeding 
 half a dollar. ^ 
 
 Philadelphia,, the metropolis of Pennsylvania, is, after 
 New York, the largest city in the Union ; it is situated 
 between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, five miles 
 above their junction, and is about 100 miles from the 
 ocean by the course of the former river. It is built of 
 brown brick on a plain slightly ascending from each 
 river. It is laid out with much regularity on the plan 
 of its founder and governor, Mr. Penn, whose memory 
 18 held, as may be supposed, in great respect ; the streets 
 which are broad and straight, generally cross at right 
 
 5ipoploo 
 
 varying in width from 50 to 120 feet. The style 
 
«WfV*^(V>«aM«U'-- 
 
 140 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 If ^1 
 
 of architecture is plain, yet white inarhle (of which there 
 must he abundance in the neighbourhood) is generally 
 used for the door-steps, window frames, the basement 
 story, and not unfrequently for the entire front ; while 
 the public buildings are for the most part entirely con- 
 structed of it. It is a remarkably clean town, good use 
 being made of the waters of the Schuylkill in that 
 respect. It is also well drained by covered ducts. 
 
 It oflfers a remarkable contrast to "New York, in the 
 feeling of repose that pervades it, as might be expected 
 in a Quaker city. It has also some fine squares, planted 
 with trees, where its citizens may repose on seats, 
 shaded from the heat of the sun, they being generally, 
 if not all, open to the public. The markets are good, 
 and well supplied. There are two theatres, both very 
 well supported. There is also a naval yard belonging 
 to the general Government, containing every preparation 
 for building vessels of war, with marine barracks, and 
 quarters for the officers. 
 
 This city has considerable trade and manufactures ; 
 and has enjoyed largely the general prosperity of the 
 Union, if we may judge by the increase of its popula- 
 tion, from 70,287 in the year 1800, to not less than 
 330,000 at the present time. 
 
 There is here a medical school in very good repute, 
 to which a number of students resort from all parts of 
 the Union, as well as from the British provinces, when 
 they cannot afford to come to Europe, which was formerly 
 the general practice. In ray walks about, I observed a 
 large black population, chiefly, if not entirely, amongst 
 the lower orders. 
 
 I passed the morning of the day after my arrival in 
 looking about the town, and in delivering my letters, 
 taking refuge from the heat in one of the principal 
 
 
TO THK UNITED STATES. J41 
 
 »quareB under the shade of a large drooping willow 
 harmonizmg with the repose of the scene. A etmnr; 
 happened to seat himself on the same bench, a i«pel 
 
 hewl.f'"^^*"' "" "y "^dressing him, iJe told me 
 he was from Germany, a bookbinder by trade bv which 
 he earned one dollar and a half a day '(6s. 3d.), n» d d 
 he regret his fatherland, .ifter this, he made some 
 observation on the religious sects of the town ; in my 
 reply to which, I happened to ask whether any distinc- 
 tion was made between the Eoman Catholics and the 
 others, when a man, who had seated himself on the 
 
 Catholic lehgion wao a bridle, and that I must be a 
 
 Jesuit m disguise ; this I disclaimed, to which he would 
 
 not assent demanding very rudely what book I caiiied 
 
 n my pocket ; I very civUly presented it to him, when 
 
 In .f''"'f ">«"*. .•f«t«'«l of a Catholic mi sal, he 
 found It to be a guide-book, in flaring red binding- 
 
 civilly beggmg my pardon. ' 
 
 After tea I sauntered out without any fixed intention, 
 when a gentleman followed me from the hotel, ver^ 
 conS '"t'^d^-ng '"n^^elf, and offering to uir;ct or 
 conduct me, as a stranger, to any part of the town 1 
 might wish to go. After thanking him, I said I migh 
 
 m tted, in the first instance, to introduce me to the 
 Athen^un, where I would see all the English news- 
 papers with the Edinburgh and Quarterly Reviews 
 which he immediately did. I found the rooms elegantly 
 fitted up and well lighted ; he then left me to spend the 
 evenmg there, for I thought no more of the theatre. I 
 felt and valued this attention the more because it was 
 nnexpectfiu ; while I found the Athemeum an agreeable 
 
wmmmm 
 
 142 
 
 RECOLLECTlONb OF A VISIT 
 
 
 resource, which I availed myself of, at least once a day, 
 during my stay in the town : an attention of this kind 
 cannot be valued too highly, it was the first of several 
 which Mr. Cresson showed me. He took a great inter- 
 est in the abolition of slavery, on which subject he had 
 visited England more than once. He gave me some 
 account of the African colony of Liberia, and of its 
 black President. 
 
 Next morning I took an omnibus to the Fairmont 
 Water-works, on the Schuylkill River, about two miles 
 from the town, occupying i area of thirty acres — a 
 large part of which consists of the " Mount," an eminence 
 100 feet above tide water in the river below, and about 
 sixty feet above the most elevated ground in the city. 
 The top is divided into four reservoirs, capable of con- 
 taining 22,000,000 gallons, one of which is divided into 
 three sections for the purpose of filtration ; the whole 
 being surrounded by a gravel walk. The- power neces- 
 sary for forcing the water into the reservoirs is obtained 
 by throwing a dam across the Schuylkill, and by means 
 of wheels moved by the water, which work forcing- 
 pumps, by which the water of the river is raised to the 
 reservoirs on the top of the "Mount." The dam is 
 1600 feet long, and ninety wide, cut in solid rock. The 
 miU-house is of stone, 238 feet long and fifty-six wide, 
 capable of containing eight wheels, and each pump will 
 raise about 1,250,000 gallons in twenty-four hours. 
 
 After gratifying my curiosity for some time here, a 
 steamer happened to stop at the landing-place for pas- 
 sengers up the river ; I embraced the opportunity to go 
 as far as the Laurel Hill Cemetery, which is situated 
 three miles and a half from the town, on the bank of 
 the river, at a height above it of ninety feet. On enter- 
 ing the gate, the first object that presented itself to me 
 
 
 ■ t 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 143 
 
 5 a dav, 
 is kind 
 several 
 b inter- 
 he had 
 le some 
 . of its 
 
 iirmont 
 miles 
 ,cre8 — a 
 ninence 
 i about 
 he city, 
 of con- 
 ied into 
 B whole 
 r neces- 
 ibtained 
 f means 
 forcing- 
 i to the 
 
 dam is 
 k. The 
 ix wide, 
 mp will 
 irs. 
 
 here, a 
 for pas- 
 ty to go 
 situated 
 bank of 
 n enter- 
 f to me 
 
 was a piece of statuary, representing Sir Walter Scott 
 conversmg with Old Mortality, while the latter is chisel- 
 ling the grave-stones of the Covenanters, executed in 
 sandstone by the self-taught Scotch sculptor, Mr. Thorn 
 This was the last thing I would have looked for here 
 1 he cemetery covers about twenty acres, the surface of 
 which IS undulating, diversified by hill and dale and 
 adorned with trees and shrubs ; the monuments were of 
 white marble, and ia good taste. On inquiring from a 
 grave-digger his rate of pay, he replied, a dollar per day 
 Un asking the same question afterwards at the New 
 Cemetery at Plymouth, Devonshire, in our own countrv 
 I learned it to be 2s. per diem. " 
 
 In the evening I went to the Walnut Street Theatre 
 and saw the opera of Masaniello, in three acts, tolerably 
 well performed; before the after-piece, a youu^ figur- 
 ante danced a pas seul gracefully enough-it was en- 
 cored. On finally retiring backwards, much pleased 
 with the plaudits that followed, she fell, lookincr 
 ruefully at the audience, and causing a general titter" 
 until the curtain dropped, to her relief. The after 
 piece not proving to my mind, I was very glad to get 
 home. o to 
 
 The theatre appeared of a tolerable size, well fitted 
 up, and the admittance moderate— ^'.e., to the dress- 
 circle, including the pit, fifty cents (2s. Id.) ; to the 
 rest of the theatre twen ty-five cents. The performance 
 1 observed, began at eight o'clock. ' 
 
 Next day I visited Penn's Hospital, with his statue in 
 front, in his Quaker's costume ; the Custom-house a 
 fine building of marble, in the form of a Grecian temple; 
 the State House, in which I observed nothing remark- 
 able, if it be not the room in which the declaration of 
 independence was voted. 
 
»mmm 
 
 144 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 I then took the omnibus for the Girard College, situ- 
 ated in the outskirts of the town. 
 
 It was founded, it appears, by a gentleman of that 
 name, a native of France, of humble origin, who settled 
 here in early life, and accumulated a very large fortune 
 as a merchant and banker, who died in 1831, bequeath- 
 ing 2,000,000 dollars to build and endow an orphan 
 hospital. 
 
 His executors appear to have committed an error, not 
 uncommon in cases of this kind ; they have expended 
 the greater part of the money on the buildings, leav- 
 ing out of view the more important object of the be- 
 quest. 
 
 It occupies a commanding position ; its site contains 
 forty-five acres of ground, bequeathed by the founder for 
 the purpose. The College, or centre building, is of 
 white marble, in the form of a Grecian temple ; it is 
 surrounded by thirty-four columns of the Corinthian 
 order, supporting an entablature : at each end is a door- 
 way or entrance, decorated with massive architraves, sur- 
 mounted by a sculptured cornice ; the roof and interior 
 also of marble. No wood is used in its construction, 
 consequently it is fire-proof. There are four other build- 
 ings, namely, two on each side, one of these being so 
 constructed as to form four distinct houses for the pro- 
 fessors ; the other being intended for the pupils. 
 
 On leaving the College, I went to see the Eastern 
 Penitentiary, as it is called. Finding it to be in the 
 immediate neighbourhood, I was readily admitted, with 
 others, to see such parts of it as are shown to strangers. 
 It covers about ten acres of ground, is surrounded by a 
 wall thirty feet high, and in architecture, is said to 
 resemble a baronial castle of the Middle Ages. 
 
 It is constructed on the principle of strict solitary 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 14.') 
 
 ge, situ- 
 
 of that 
 settled 
 ) fortune 
 equeath- 
 
 orphan 
 
 rror, not 
 xpended 
 5s, leav- 
 ' the be- 
 
 contains 
 mder for 
 ig, is of 
 le ; it is 
 )riuthian 
 H a door- 
 .ves, sur- 
 interior 
 traction, 
 ei build- 
 being so 
 the pro- 
 Eastern 
 e in the 
 ted, with 
 trangers, 
 led by a 
 i said to 
 
 solitary 
 
 confinement, in separate cells ; each cell having a very 
 little garden attached, for air and recreation ; and it 
 appears calculated for the security, the health, and so 
 tar as is consistent with its objects, the comfort of its 
 occupants. 
 
 As occasion served, I visited the United States Mint 
 unfortunately not then in operation ; and such other 
 objects as a stranger is expected to nee. 
 
 Sunday, the 9th July, I attended Divine service at the 
 Episcopal Church, where I heard a good sermon, and 
 the prayers well read. 
 
 The voluntary system prevails here, as it does in the 
 rest of the Union, yet no want of religion follows as a 
 consequence ; on the contrary, in this respect Phila- 
 delphia IS exemplary ; there being at this time 159 
 churches of different denominations for the white popu- 
 lation, and twelve for the coloured people,— so strictly is 
 the hne of demarcation carried out, even to spiritual 
 matters, where, surely, as fellow-Christians, we ou-ht 
 to admit, m humility, our equality in the house^of 
 Grod. 
 
 In the voluntary system, it becomes the interest as 
 well as the duty of the clergyman to make himself 
 acceptable to his congregation, on which he entirely 
 depends for his stipend ; he therefore becomes their 
 friend and spiritual adviser throughout the week and 
 does his best to read the prayers properlv, and to ad- 
 dress to them such a discourse as they can understand 
 and pix.ht by on the Sunday ; it may therefore be said 
 to work well here. 
 
 The connexion between Chur(;h and State is of Ion- 
 standing at home. In early times it was the medium 
 ot influencing the public mind on State affairs ; it was 
 also a great source of patronage to the crown and to 
 
 K 
 
146 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 i 
 
 : 
 
 the landed aristocracy. The first of these has long 
 gone by. 
 
 The second remains consequently the young aspirant ; 
 for Church preferment depends more on family influ- 
 ence than on his own qualifications for the cure of souls ; 
 the eifect of which is that, in England, the prayers, so 
 beautiful in themselves, are frequently read in a mono- 
 tonous tune or drawl, while the sermon often fails to 
 command the attention of the congregation. 
 
 In Edinburgh, when I was a young man, there was 
 very little good preaching ; the minister would give his 
 extempore prayer in a tone and manner ungraceful ; 
 the sermon would follow, in a dry disquisition on points 
 of doctrine ; and if it became necessary to announce a 
 prayer-meeting, a collection, or a sacrament, he came 
 down at once to another key, as if calling for special 
 attention. 
 
 There is unfortunately little improvement on this in 
 the present day ; and it would be well if some of our 
 young ministers would take a lesson from their gifted 
 townsman, the Rev. Dr. Guthrie. 
 
 Free seats on a large scale are also loudly called for 
 in the Edinburgh churches for the use of the poor. 
 
 The clergy of the rural districts are no doubt good 
 parish priests, and fulfil their weekly duties conscienti- 
 ously ; but it is to be feared that there are many instances 
 where the Sunday's sermon fails to act as a bond of 
 union between the minister and his flock. 
 
 The remedy would be, to provide professorships of 
 elocution at all our divinity schools, on the ground that 
 the student, until he be qualified to command the atten- 
 tion of his congregation, and to carry it with him, cannot 
 hope to effect any good whatever from his pulpit ; the 
 other qualifications tor the sacred office should be strictly 
 
 
TO THK UNITED STATES. 
 
 147 
 
 
 defined, and he sho.ild be subjected to a rigid scrutiny 
 by a board of examiners, as in other professions, belbre 
 ho be permitted to take orders. 
 
 In the evening I walked towards the Delaware, and 
 admired two fine liners between Liverpool and this port • 
 the Tuscarora, and the William Tell. 
 
 The Schuylkill is a comparatively narrow river, with 
 high banks. ' 
 
 The Delaware, on the contrary, is a fine open broad 
 cllsr* "^'''^^''^^ "^ *' *^^ *«^" ^y ^'^ss^J^ of a large 
 
 The most pleasing feature of this town is the general 
 wellbeing of the lower orders (as I have had occasion 
 to notice elsewhere)-provisions being plentiful and 
 cheap, while the labour-market being regulated by the 
 demand and supply; it is paid for in an inverse 
 
 The repudiation of their State debt cannot be too 
 ranch censured ; their finances were for a time embar- 
 rassed, but the stinging diatribes of the Eev. Mr Sidney 
 Smith have had their effect. They have honourably 
 redeemed their engagements, resumed payment of their 
 btate debt, while their resomces are said to be rapidly 
 developing themselves at an increased rate. 
 
 I experienced myself much personal attention and 
 
 the city with 
 
 kindness here, and prepared to leave 
 regret. 
 
 Tuesday, July llth.-I left Philadelphia this morning 
 at half-past eight o'clock a.m., by the railway train and 
 reached Baltimore about half-past two— a distance of 
 ninety-seven miles ; fare, three dollars. The weather 
 pleasant, but warm. Passing through a variety of 
 country, undulating and well wooded, we crossed several 
 rivers, the view on each being beautiful and variegated 
 
148 
 
 RECOLT-FXTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 reminding me of the richest parts of Enghmd ; the soil 
 nevertheless light, inclining to sandy ; the green crops 
 looking well ; the grain crops generally thin, but mostly 
 cut dowL The train was carried directly to the station, 
 in the centre of the town, by horses — the locomotive 
 being removed at the outskirts— upon rails laid down in 
 the streets, but sunk to a level with the road, so as not 
 to interfere with the general tra^^c. 
 
the soil 
 )n crops 
 t mostly 
 
 station, 
 lomotive 
 down in 
 as liot 
 
 TO THE DNITKD 8TATKS. 
 
 149 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 nALTIMORE—WASHrNGTON—rAPITOL— CHAMBERS OP C0NGRK88 
 
 —president's house— pRESf dent's reception— OUTUNK 
 
 OF THE HISTORY OP THE UNITED STATES— REMARKS. 
 
 Baltimore, the capital of Maryland,— a colony settled 
 by Lord Baltimore, a Catholic nobleman, who came out 
 here accompanied by followers of his own religious per- 
 suasion, giving his name to the town he founded —is 
 pleasantly situated on the river Patapsco (which flows 
 mto the Bay of Chesapeake), and carries on a prosper- 
 0U8 commerce, with a population of about 125,000 On 
 the bank of the river, the town is very much occupied 
 by warehouses and other accommodations for traffic but 
 beyond them, it rises to a considerable height, laid out 
 m handsome streets and squares ; the houses are of red 
 brick, with marble or granite basements. There are 
 some handsome bridges over a stream that divides the 
 town ; and several monuments ; one of these, erected in 
 honour of General Washington, I ascended. It consists 
 ot a Doric column, rising from a base fifty feet square 
 and twenty high. Its height is 180 feet, including the 
 statue of Washington at the top, sixteen feet high It 
 stands on an eminence in the heart of the town and 
 commands a fine view from the top. As I looked in the 
 direction of the bay, ia particular, I observed the ibrest 
 
f '■ 
 
 lli 
 P 
 
 ISO 
 
 UECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 coverinp^, far and wide, mther low banks. If America 
 has not the prestige of old recollections, she certainly 
 has the freshness of youth ; the great feature everywhere 
 is the forest itself, no doubt old enough ; but everything 
 else is new; even in the oldest colonies, centuries must 
 elapse before, in this respect, they can be made to assume 
 the aspect of modern Europe. 
 
 I next visited the Koman Catholic cathedral, a large 
 and handsome building, one of several indications of the 
 origin of the town, which have come down to our day ; 
 there being still a considerable Catholic population as 
 peculiar to it. We have in this, another instance of 
 a State, the founders of which were driven to seek a 
 refuge in the wilderness, on account of the unhappy 
 dissensions at home, on the subject of religion, which 
 ought to be a bond of peace and brotherly love. 
 
 I saw whatever else of the town one day would per- 
 mit me to do, which I took some interest in, as the first 
 slave State I had yet entered ; but I had no opportunity, 
 in my transient passage, of observing how the system 
 worked. I learned here that a relative of Lord Stanley, 
 and a son of Sir Robert Peel, were respectively travelling 
 in the United States, hitherto very much on the route I 
 had taken, but in advance of each other — we were in 
 Indian phrase, on each other's trail. 
 
 Next morning (13th July), at 9 a.m., I took the rail- 
 way train for Washington -a distance of forty miles; 
 fare, 1 dol. 80 cents. (7s. 6d.) 
 
 After a drive through a pleasant country, I reached 
 Washington about twelve o'clock, where, wishing to try 
 this mode, I took up my quarters at a very good board- 
 ing-house, to which I had been recommended by a friend 
 at New York, and then sallied out to see the town and 
 deliver my letters. 
 
TO THK UNITJflU STATES. 
 
 151 
 
 »S 
 
 Washington, the metropolis of the United States, is 
 situated on tiio river Potomac, in the district of Cohitn- 
 bia. Tlie forest-clad hills by wjiich it is encompassed, 
 J although not liigh, diversify the prospect. 
 
 It was at the suggestion of General Wasliington, that 
 this spot was seh cted as the site for the future capital of 
 the Union ; the district in question being ceded to the 
 General Governuicnt for the purpose, by the State of 
 Maryland. 
 
 The city is laid out on a regular and extensive plan, 
 and will, if the design of the founders be carried out, no 
 doubt form a respectable metropolis ; but at present 
 there is no indication of this. 
 
 Washington w.'is attacked by our troops in the war of 
 1814, when the authorities, refusing to ransom the town, 
 the Capitol, the President's house, the public offices, and 
 several ships of war on the stocks and in the river, were 
 reduced to ashes. 
 
 The Capitol, in which the Houses of Congress hold 
 their sittings, has been rebuilt on a large scale and in 
 good taste. Elevated on a plateau seventy-two feet 
 above tide-water, it affords a commanding view of the 
 different parts of the city, and of the surrounding coun- 
 try. The building, which is of freestone, occupies an 
 area of more than an acre and a half ; it is adorned with 
 Corinthian columns, and entered by fine flights of steps to 
 both fronts. I approached it from the town by an avenue 
 of trees, and, mounting the steps, entered the Rotunda in 
 the middle of the building, surmounted by a fine dome. 
 The walls of this Rotunda are ornamented with pictures 
 on a large scale, representing incidents in American 
 history, viz. :— the Presentation to Congress of the De- 
 claration of Independence ; the Surrender of Burgoyne, 
 —of Cornwallis ; Washington resignin<^ his Commit- 
 
 »?-'i 
 
J 62 
 
 KECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 Bion ; the Baptism of Pocahontas ; and the Embarka- 
 tion of the Pilgrims. After surveying these in succes- 
 sion, I accidentally encountered a New York friend, who 
 introduced me on the floor of both houses, then sitting, 
 where I met with much notice from individual members, 
 my name, as connected with my uncle, being generally 
 known. One gentleman, in particular, introduced him- 
 self as having been personally known to him, having 
 attended his lectures in Edinburgh. 
 
 Each chamber is entered at either side of an inner 
 lobby, emerging from the Pvotunda ; they occupy the two 
 wings of the building. They are square, I think, in 
 form, and handsome ; but they appeared to have the 
 defect said to be found in our new houses of Parliament 
 —for, although important matters were in discussion in 
 both, I found great difficulty in catching their pur- 
 port 
 
 The President holds his court in a building at the 
 other end of the town, provided for his residence, of 
 large dimensions, handsomely constructed of freestone, 
 with a fine portico situated in its own grounds, and 
 known under the general appellation of the White 
 House. There are no guards on duty— no parade that 
 would indicate the palace of the head of so great a 
 Republic. 
 
 The parks surrounding the Capitol were a favourite 
 Icunge. They are tastefully laid out, ornamented with 
 statues, and shaded with trees; yet 1 observed some 
 unmistakable signs of a new country— the st^^nes col- 
 lected in little quadrangular heaps on the grass, still 
 remained. I observed the same in the President's 
 grounds. 
 
 I frequently entered the Rotunda to admire its dome 
 and its proportions, which are ninety-five feet in dia- 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 153 
 
 iia= 
 
 meter, and the same in height ; the pavement is of 
 marble. 
 
 I There were generally a good many equipages about, 
 
 I mostly driven by black coachmen ; and a stir otherwise 
 
 as connected with the sittings of the Chambers. 
 
 I was introduced to the President, Mr. Polk, at an 
 evemng reception, who, as is the custom, shook hands 
 with me, saying he was very glad to have seen me 
 
 I was then presented to his lady by General Hous- 
 ton, the ex-president of Texas ; she seemed young enouo-h 
 to be his daughter,- very good-looking, and to become 
 ner high station. 
 
 I was then noticed by members of Congress, and 
 others present, who expressed a wish that I would visit 
 them in their respective provinces, should my tour per- 
 mit. I found here indeed, as I had occasion to remark 
 elsewhere, that the mother-country is looked up to with 
 respect ; and that a gentleman visitin- them from its 
 shores, would be well and hospitably received. 
 
 As our transatlantic colonies had remained from their 
 foundation an integral portion of our empire until the 
 revolutionary war, the following outline of their history 
 ot their present form of government, and a few other 
 particulars, may not be uninteresting. 
 
 Our first attempt to colonize America was made by 
 Sir Walter Ealeigh, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth 
 who gave his colony the name of Virginia, in honour of 
 his sovereign. This was followed up successfully, from 
 time to time, during the reigns of her immediate succes- 
 sors, down to a comparatively recent date. 
 
 This spirit of colonization took its rise, no doubt in 
 the first instance, in the adventurous spirit of the Iwe 
 consequent on the then recent discovery of the New 
 World— not from any pressure of population at home, 
 
 MiPdrJ 
 
 hi. 
 
1 
 
 
 fi 
 
 A 
 
 ] 
 t 
 1 
 
 154 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 because we are told in the history of oiir country, that,- 
 on the accession of the immediate successor of Queen 
 Elizabeth, the population of England did not exceed 
 two millions — i.e., less than the population of the county 
 of Middlesex at the present day ; and that more than a 
 century later, in the reign of Queen Anne, it did not 
 exceed five millions. 
 
 The colonists of those days seem to have consisted 
 mostly of the better classes, led by religious or political 
 motives. They languished in their infancy, as well from 
 the hostility of the Indians, as from the difficulty of 
 tiuding labour. The living tide that now sets in to their 
 shores in a perennial current from our over-population 
 at home, had not then begun to flow. It was attempted 
 to be remedied in various ways ; our convicts for small 
 offences were sent out. 
 
 Burns, in a poem in allusion to some poaching affair, 
 says : — 
 
 " Though I should herd the Buckskin kye for't, in Virginia." 
 
 It also gave rise to a system of kidnapping on the 
 part of masters of trading-vessels, and others — very dis- 
 reputable in itself, but probably lucrative to those en- 
 gaged in it — of which we meet with amusing instances 
 occasionally in old books. 
 
 They were decoyed on board ship, and then articled 
 to the colonists for a term of years, on the pretext of 
 paying for their passage. ^ 
 
 Peter Williamson, who was very well known in Ediu- 
 burgh in our father's days, is an amusing instance of 
 this. 
 
 Peter was kidnapped with several other boys from the 
 port of Aberdeen ; he ultimately settled in the outskirts 
 of Pennsylvania, when his house was sacked and himself 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 155 
 
 carried off by the Delaware Indians, with whom he re- 
 mained some time. Peter was, according to his own 
 account, an unwilling captive ; but there is reason to 
 fear that he is scarcely candid here. Be that, however, 
 as it may, he came back to civilized life, returned to his 
 native country, published his own story, and was turned 
 out of Aberdeen, for hinting that the authorities had 
 wmked at the system that led to his early adventures, 
 which he resented by bringing an action against its 
 Town-Council, in the Supreme Court in Edinburgh 
 recovering damages. ' 
 
 Peter was a man of tact, and made his early adven- 
 tures a source of profit, as well by the sale of his book 
 as by exhibiting himself to his astonished countrymen 
 in the dress of a Delaware Indian, with the war-whoop, 
 war-dance, and other accompaniments. 
 
 These difficulties were, however, as time elapsed, gra- 
 dually overcome ; they flourished and became the rneans 
 of greatly extending our commerce, much to the envy 
 of our neighbours. 
 
 The Dutch and other maritime powers had also 
 planted colonies in their neighbourhood, which eventu- 
 ally became absorbed in ours ; as also had the French 
 on a larger scale, more to the northward, where they 
 had taken deep root, and became in time objects of 
 jealousy and uneasiness to our settlements. 
 
 Our periodical wars with that rival power were fought 
 out bitterly in the colonies, and with alternate success ; 
 until Quebec fell to our armament under General Wolfe' 
 in 1759, which ended in their cession to us. 
 
 This war is memorable, as the probable cause of the 
 loss of our colonies. It was not brought to a successful 
 issue without great expense to the nation at large ; a-i 
 as it was considered to have been undertaken for coloii il 
 
I 
 
 ' ' 
 
 !■ J 
 
 156 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ill 
 
 interests in particular, an attempt was made to levy one 
 or two small taxes on stamps and tea, which was re- 
 sisted by the colonists, on the ground that they were not 
 represented in the Parliament that imposed them. 
 
 An anti-Stamp-Act Congress was held in New York 
 as early as 1765 ; the colonists resolving not to use 
 our manufactures, until the stamp act should be re- 
 pealed by Parliament. In 1770, the people of Boston 
 threw stones at the military, who fired, and killed three 
 persons— an event which added to the growing discon- 
 tent. In 1773, the tea-tax was resisted in Boston and 
 all the colonics, and Lord North reduced the duty from 
 one shilling to threepence per pound ; but the principle 
 on which it was imposed remaining as before, a large 
 party of men, disguised as Indians, boarded the ships 
 lying at the Boston wharf, and threw the tea into tho 
 harbour. On this news reaching England, Parliament 
 struck Boston from the list of ports ; the breach widened. 
 General Gage was sent from England to overawe Boston. 
 The colonists elected a Congress, who memorialized the 
 Home Government, but in vain, though supported by 
 Lord Chatham, Burke, and others of the opposition side 
 in Parliament. In April 1775, General Gage sent to 
 seize some military stores at Concord. The militia re- 
 fused to give them up, were fired upon, and several 
 killed on the road, from behind walls and fences. The 
 colonists were now thoroughly roused to resistance. On 
 the 10th of May, General Washington was installed 
 Commander-in-Chief 
 
 On the 4th of July 1776, the Congress at Phila- 
 delphia issued their Declaration of Independence. 
 
 On the surrender of General Burgoyne at Saratoga, 
 on the 17th October 1777, France, backed by Spain and 
 the other maritime nowers. took ud the auarrel on their 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 m 
 
 h.mr 
 
 behalf; the result of which was, that after a bitter 
 contest, m which 100,000 of the colonists and 40000 of 
 our troops are computed to have fallen, we were on the 
 30th November 1782, compelled to make peace on their 
 own terms. 
 
 Thus was this unfortunate war, originating in trifling 
 disputes, which, if met with prudence, might have been 
 compromised, brought to a hostile conclusion by the 
 intervention of rival powers. 
 
 The peace that followed, found the colonists bank- 
 rupt in their finances, their commerce annihilated, with 
 a rankling animosity to the mother-country, which only 
 ceased with the generation that gave it birth 
 
 They recovered from the two Lirst in an incredibly 
 short space of time ; their commerce resumin.- its old 
 . channels with us, to the sore disappointment, no doubt 
 of our enemies. ' 
 
 From the close of the war to the year 1788, the 
 United States continued to be governed under the 
 articles of confederation entered into the better to oppose 
 us. It was found to be unequal to the wants of the 
 people, and inefficient in power. Delegates from the 
 fetates assembled at Philadelphia, when, after a debate 
 of four months, their present constitution was odopted 
 with the ultimate assent of all the States. The electors 
 met in February 1789, and chose General Washington 
 their first President under it. 
 
 The Government is in form a federal representative 
 democracy. 
 
 All the States of the Union are subject to the national 
 or general government, consisting of three ..ranches— 
 the executive, legislative, and judicial. 
 
 The executive power is vested by it in the President 
 
 who holds his office i'or t.lm fArm «+' ^.v., „ . ' 
 
 — — ^ ,^. ^^^ „^ ivUi jcaiS , 
 
 
158 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ■jl 
 
 \t 
 
 chosen by the electors from the different States, who are 
 mostly elected by the people ; each State electing as 
 many electors as they have members in Congress. A 
 majority of the electors' votes is necessary for a choice ; 
 if there be no choice, then the House of Representatives 
 elects one of the three candidates having the most votes ; 
 in this last balloting, each State has one vote. 
 
 The Vice-President is chosen in the same manner, and 
 for the same term ; but if there be no choice by the 
 electors, the Senate then chooses one of the two persons 
 having the highest number of votes. No person can be 
 President or vice-President, except a native-born citizen, 
 of the age of at least thirty-five years, and who has been 
 fourteen years a resident within the United States. 
 
 The President is Commander-in-Chief of the army 
 and navy, and of the militia when in actual service. 
 With the advice and consent of two-thirds of the Senate, 
 he makes treaties, appoints ambassadors, judges of the 
 supreme court, and, directly or indirectly, appoints to 
 all the offices of the national Government. He possesses 
 a qualified veto upon the bills presented to him in 
 Congress ; but if he disapproves any bill, it nevertheless 
 becomes a law, if passed by a vote of two- thirds of each 
 house. He receives ambassadors and other public mini- 
 sters, takes care that the laws be faithfully executed, 
 and commissions all the officers. 
 
 The President's salary is 20,000 dollars per annum. 
 It appears that, on the subject of his salary being 
 agitated. General Washington declined any allowance 
 beyond his expenses ; these he gave in at the end of his 
 first year as amounting to the above sum, at which it 
 has continued ever since. 
 
 The Vice-President is President of the Senate; and 
 in case of the death, resignation, or removal of the 
 
who are 
 cting as 
 ress. A 
 I choice ; 
 Bntatives 
 st voteis ; 
 
 iner, and 
 3 by the 
 > persons 
 a can be 
 1 citizen, 
 has been 
 :es. 
 be army 
 
 service. 
 ! Senate, 
 )8 of the 
 loints to 
 possesses 
 
 him in 
 ertheless 
 
 of each 
 lie mini- 
 xecuted, 
 
 annum. 
 y being 
 ilowance 
 d of his 
 Arhich it 
 
 te ; and 
 of the 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 159 
 
 President, the powers and duties of that officer devolve 
 on him. 
 
 _ The legislative power is vested in a Congress, consist- 
 ing of a Senate and a House of Representatives The 
 senators are chosen by the legislatures of the several 
 btates for the term of six years ; there are two from 
 each State, and it is required that they shall be at least 
 thirty-five years of age, and have been citizens of the 
 United States for nine years. The Senate has tlie sole 
 power to try all impeachments. 
 
 The representatives are chosen for two years by the 
 people of each State, and must be at least twenty-five 
 years of age, and have been citizens of the United 
 States for seven years. Representatives are apportioned 
 among the States, according to their respective popula- 
 tion. ^ ^ 
 
 Congress must assemble at least once in every year 
 It has power to lay on and collect taxes, duties &c • 
 to declare war ; to grant patent and copy rights • to 
 borrow money ; to regulate commerce ; raise armies 'and 
 navies ; and to make all laws necessary to carry into 
 execution the powers vested by the Constitution in the 
 general Government. 
 
 Each member of the two Houses is allowed eight 
 dollars per diem during attendance on Congress • each 
 also receives eight dollars for every twenty miles he tra- 
 vels in going to and from Washington. 
 
 The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court con- 
 sisting at present of nine judges, appointed by the 
 msident, with the consent of the Senate ; thirty-three 
 district courts, and seven circuit courts. 
 
 The principal executive officers are, the Secretaries of 
 btate, of the Treasury, of War, and of the Navy the 
 Postmaster-General, and the Attornev-General They 
 
1^ 
 
 ! '11 
 
 !: 
 
 160 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 are removable at the will of the President, and with the 
 Vice-President, from the caliinet. The Secretary of 
 State conducts tlic negotiations with foreign pov\ ers, and 
 corresponds with the public ministers of the United 
 States abroad, and with those of foreign states near the 
 United States. 
 
 The Secretary of the Treasury superintends the fiscal 
 concerns of the Government. 
 
 To the War Department belongs the direction and 
 government of the army ; the erection of fortifications ; 
 the execution of topographical surveys ; and the direc- 
 tion of Indian affairs. 
 
 Each State has its separate local government. They 
 are all representative democracies, based on an elective 
 executive, and legislature chosen by the body of the 
 people for a short term of service. The suffrage is 
 virtually universal ; blacks are, however, not permitted 
 to vote. A small revenue is raised in each State ade- 
 quate to its wants, by direct taxes, or excise and license 
 duties. 
 
 The revenue of the general confederacy is derived 
 chiefly from the Customs, and the sale of public lands ; 
 the Grovernment having found it but seldom necessary 
 to resort to direct taxation. 
 
 The public lands have been recently a great source of 
 revenue. The Government now possesses 100,000,000 
 of acres surveyed and unsold, and much more vhich is 
 not surveyed. The revenue for the year 1845 amounted 
 to 29,769,134 dollars ; and the expenditure to 29,968,206 
 dollars. 
 
 The principal reliance of the country for defence is on 
 the militia of the several States. The regular army 
 consists at present of 712 commissioned officers, eight 
 regiments of mfantry, four of artillery, two of dragoons, 
 
with the 
 
 retary of 
 
 Aers, and 
 
 ) United 
 
 near the 
 
 the fiscal 
 
 !tion and 
 ications ; 
 he direc- 
 
 fc. They 
 I elective 
 y of the 
 ffrage is 
 lermitted 
 tate ade- 
 d license 
 
 derived 
 c lands ; 
 lecessary 
 
 source of 
 ,000,000 
 v'hich is 
 mounted 
 ,968,206 
 
 ice is on 
 ar army 
 rs, eight 
 ragoons, 
 
 TO THJS UNITED STATES. 
 
 Ifil 
 
 anu 200 cadets ; in all, 9,012 men. The expenditure 
 lor which, in the year 1844, was 8,231,317 dollars. 
 
 The navy consists of ten ships of the line, fifteen 
 frigates, twenty-three sloops of war, eight hrigs, ei-l,t 
 Hchooners, nine steam-ships, and four store-ships °In 
 the year 1845, there were 1) commodores, G8 captains, 
 .^b commander.^, 327 lieutenants, 69 surgeons, 64 pursers 
 23 chaplains, 159 passed midshipmen, 314 midshipmen' 
 31 masters, and 22 professors of mathematics. Tiieiv 
 are navy-yards at Portsmoutli, Boston, New York or 
 Brooklyn, Philadelphia, Washington, Norfolk, and Pen- 
 sacola. The expenditure for the navy for the year 1844 
 was 6,496,991 dollars. ^ ' 
 
 The mint of the United States was established at 
 Philadelphia in 1793 ; and in 1838, branches wereestab- 
 hshed at Charlotte, in North Carolina ; at Dahlone-a 
 m Georgia ; and at New Orleans, but subject to the con- 
 trol of the director at Philadelphia. 
 
 The gold coinage consists of ten dollar, five dollar 
 two and a half dollar, and one and a quarter dollar- 
 pieces. 
 
 The silver coinage of dollars, half-dollars, and (luarter- 
 doUars, down to pieces of five cents (2id.) 
 
 There is a great paper circulation throughout all the 
 states. 
 
 Minerals of every kind are in great abundance through- 
 out the several States of the Union ; but not yet worked 
 in proportion to their importance, probably ou account 
 of the high price of labour. 
 
 Coal, one of the most abundant, is now btcumino- 
 much more used than formerly. It is found of two kinds'' 
 --the anthracite and the bituminous. The former is 
 found and largely mined in Pennsylvania, in three dis- 
 tmet beds, two of whicii lie between tlie Lehigh and 
 
 L 
 
<l 
 
 i! 
 
 P. 
 
 n 
 
 ; 11 
 
 162 
 
 REOOLLEOTIONH OP A VISIT 
 
 Supquehanna Rivers, tlie licad waters of the Schuylkill, 
 and the north branch of the Susquehanna ; the third, on 
 both sides of the Lachawanna, au<'i . .ic uortlj. branch of 
 the Susquehanna. 
 
 The anthracite coal is ranch used in the large towns, 
 and makes a pleasant fire, as I had often an opportunity 
 to observe ; it consumes slowly, with little or no flame, 
 nor docs it give out the smoke that disfigures oir towns 
 at home. 
 
 The establishment of religion by law is forbidden by 
 the Constitution of the United States, but every person 
 who does not interrupt the peace of society is protected 
 in the free exercise of his religion. The Voluntar}' prin- 
 ciple has been found to be efficient for the support of 
 religious institutions ; and the Americans seem sensible 
 that the stability of a free government must depend very 
 much upon their moral influence upon the principles 
 and habits of the people. Dr. Baird, in his " Religion 
 in America," has estimated that there is annually raised 
 5,500,000 dollars for the support of the ministry, and 
 that there is one preacher to every 800 souls. There 
 were in 1845, throughout the Union, about 30,000 
 churches of all denominations, 32,543 ministers, and 
 3,384,744 communicants ; of which the Methodists were 
 the most numerous, and next the Baptists, Presbyterians, 
 and then Episcopalians. 
 
 The subject of Education has excited much attention 
 in all the States, most of which have applied certain 
 lands or annual sums for the maintenance of public 
 schools, where any one can enjoy their benefits gratuit- 
 ously. The most prominent in the cause of education 
 are the New England States, New York, New Jersey, 
 Pennsylvania, Ohio, &c. ; while some of the collegiate 
 institutions are of ancient date. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 163 
 
 ^ The population, exclusive of the aboriginal race, con- 
 sists of threo classes-whites, free coloured persons and 
 slaves ; the comparative number of each, in 1840 when 
 I the whole population amounted to 17,068 666 was— 
 
 SSlS.^'^^^'^^'"'' ^'''' ''^'"^^^' 386,245; 'slaves, 
 The blad. population, including not onlv the negroes 
 hu the m-iatto breeds, form rather more than one-sixth 
 of the whole population of the country. In some States 
 the free blacks are admitted to political privilecres, but 
 the number of each is but few. In some, their testi- 
 mony is not admitted against a white man ; and thev 
 are subject to several other civil disabilities. Slaverv 
 has been abolished in the Eastern States, and has never 
 been permitted in the North-western States. Bv a law 
 ot the United States Government, passed in 1808 the 
 slave-ti-ade is prohibited. 
 
 In 1803, Louisiana was purchased from the French 
 for 15,000,000 dollars. « i^rencn 
 
 In 1821, Florida was ceded by Spain in compensa- 
 
 0,000,000 dollars. 
 
 In 1806-7, Buonaparte passed the Berlin and Milan 
 decrees, the effect of which was to prevent the United 
 btates tradmg with Great Britain. The British Govern- 
 ment, m retaliation, passed orders in council having a 
 tendency to prevent the United States trading w!th 
 France and her allies. Ame- can vessels were in conse- 
 quence searched, and confiscated by the navies of both 
 powers. A non-mtercourse act with France and Eno-- 
 and was the result. Napoleon revoked his decrees, and 
 the non-intercourse act was repealed. 
 
 On the 4th of June 1812, war was declared with 
 Great Britain by the American Congress, which con- 
 
 mm 
 
 It r ^ 
 
 '*4 P 
 
104 
 
 |! t 
 
 ! 
 
 llECOUiECTIUNS OP A VIHIT 
 
 tinucd for uliout two yearH, when a peace wu8 couckuled 
 at (Iheiit, on the 24th Decoinber 1814. 
 
 In 1845, Texas was annexed to the United States. 
 In May 1840, war was declared against Mexico, and 
 large bodies of troops sent to that country, under 
 (leneral Z. P. Taylor, afterwards elected Tresident. 
 
 In 1783, the public debt of the [Jnion was 42,00( ),()()() 
 dollars ; in 1793, it had increased to 8(),352,(X)0 ; in 
 1813, it was reduced to 45,000,000; in 181G, in conse- 
 (pienco of the war with England, it had increased to 
 127,334,1)33 ; but in the succeeding twenty years, it was 
 wholly extinguished ; about 212 millions having been 
 paid for principal and interest. 
 
 At the conitnenceiuent of the Revolutionary War, the 
 population of the colonies was estimated at about three 
 rnillions. On the interference of France and its allies, 
 it was fought out with great virulence, and the result 
 was looked upon at tlie time in England as a great 
 domestic calamity. We had been justly proud of them ; 
 boys and porters at the corners of the streets woald^ 
 according O old books and newspapers, be found talk- 
 ing of our great transatlantic empire. 
 
 But perhaps the most remarkable feature in this scene 
 of social strife is, that neither the indiscreet measures of 
 the Home Government, nor the hostility of the colonists, 
 backed by the powers of Europe banded together for the 
 purpose, could undo the tie that connected them with 
 the mother-comitry ; their self-government was a mere 
 question of time ; they could not very well have continued 
 an integral poi'tion of the British Empire, without am- 
 tributing their share to the expenses of the State ; in 
 which case one of two things would have been liable 
 to occur, either the colonies would have been kept back 
 for the supposed benefit of the parent state, or, if 
 
TO THE UNITKD STATK8. 
 
 Itiri 
 
 allowed to expand and j,'row rich, as we now Hee thoni 
 tlie larger country would have become in time the seat 
 of empire ; neither of which, 1 inia-ine, would have been 
 desirable. 
 
 It is to 1)0 regjetted, no doubt, that the Hei)aratiou 
 took place violently, by force of arms ; but I believe 
 tliere is now no doubt that both parties are gainers l)v 
 the change it effected. 
 
 ^ They were then comparatively irnyv ; they are now 
 rich; with a population of twenty millions, spreadin.^ 
 <.ur language, religion, laws, literature, and free institu" 
 tions, over iiulf a continent. 
 
 They are as much open to us in our individual capa- 
 city as they ever were, having every sympathy in common, 
 linked to us by a vast trade, increasing in proportion us 
 each prospers. 
 
 Tliey remain our colonies, in the sense of the Greek 
 colonies of antiquity in Asia Minor, whicli were inde- 
 pendent from the beginning ; or of a case equally in 
 point, Tyre, and her giant offspring Carthage. There 
 IS perhaps no episode of ancient history more pleasing 
 than the affection which continued to subsist between 
 these two States ; their annals remained unstained with 
 the blood of each other ; while they sympathized with, 
 assisted, and gave a home, to one another in adversity ; 
 of which we have two memorable instances, viz., when 
 Tyre was besieged by Alexander, and when Cartha-e 
 was hard pressed by the Komans. ° 
 
 P 
 
 if 
 
II 
 
 : 
 
 J 
 
 
 'f 
 
 1 
 
 if 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 J 66 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 MUSEUM EPISCOPAL CHURCH— DISASTROUS NEWS PROM FRANCE 
 
 REMARKABLE CONVERSATION OF BUONAPARTE— RICHMOND 
 
 SLAVERY— STATE HOUSE EPISCOPAL CHURCH— TOBACCO 
 
 STORES ROUTE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS WARM SPRINGS 
 
 UNTOWARD EVENT— HOT SPRINGS— WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS 
 
 BLACK MAN— DEPARTURE WESTWARD— GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 Saturday, July 15th, I visited the Museum, accom- 
 panied by two young ladies, who pointed out to me some 
 memorials of General Washington ; among others, the 
 uniform coat he wore on resigning his commission. On 
 our way back I found letters from. England at the post- 
 office, forwarded on to me from Philadelphia. 
 
 Sunday, 16th, I went to the Episcopal Church, 
 where I heard an eloquent and sound sermon ; the lext 
 being from Ecclesiastes— " Vanity of vanities, saith the 
 Preacher, all is vanity." Afterwards a quiet walk in 
 the cool of the evening, in the hope that I did not spend 
 the day without improvement. On Monday, I called 
 on the English Charge d' Affaires, in absence of the 
 ambassador, to inquire the cause of the increased and 
 heavy postage to and from England, and otherwise to 
 pay my respects to him, when I learned it to be a reta- 
 liatory measure, in reference to some misunderstanding 
 on the subject with the Home Government. 
 About this time the disastrous news reached us from 
 
TO THi: UNITED STATES. 
 
 167 
 
 
 France, of the battle fought out in the streets of Paris ; 
 it created a great sensation, with a general feeling of 
 satisfaction that the friends of order had prevailed. 
 
 It is certainly difficult to understand how a limited 
 monarchy can exist in France, as in England, without 
 a !iereditary aristocracy ; or a Republic, in the sense of 
 the American Union, with a large standing army. 
 
 Their late king, Louis Philippe, seems to have com- 
 mitted two capital errors— first, in accepting the crown 
 to the prejudice of the elder branch of his family-— his re- 
 lative, the Due de Bourdeaux, a minor, could have given 
 no just cause of offence to the nation ; secondly, having 
 thus destroyed the prestige of hereditary descent in 
 favour of an elective monarchy, in not allowing the 
 nation to manage its own affairs, under his auspices, as 
 a constitutional king,— which his son-in-law, the King 
 of the Belgians (our Prince Leopold) has done so suc- 
 cessfully,— instead of the wide system of expense he in- 
 troduced, to dam up the current which ultimately swept 
 him off his throne. 
 
 He was a mercifid prince, or the present Emperor of 
 the French would not now be alive to fill liis chair. 
 
 There is a remarkable conver.<atlon of Buonaparte at 
 St. Helena, recorded by Count Monthelon, I think, and 
 published many years ago, which become. .Jmost pro- 
 phetic under the circumstances. 
 
 He commences by saying that revolutions am great 
 evils, that he did not usurp the crown of France, he 
 picked it up out of the gutter— that the present family 
 would not be long on the throne— that if the so-called 
 liberals got into power, the Duke of Orleans would be 
 king ; but that the French nation would find they had 
 been deceived, and that his son, the King of Kome 
 would in the end be called to the throne. 
 
 m' 
 
1G8 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 Jli 
 
 11 
 
 IK 
 
 J! 
 
 ■j; 
 
 V: 
 
 The book was lent me about this time, and I read 
 the passa:;e in question with a good deal of interest. 
 
 I now prepared to leave Washington for Kichmond, 
 the capital of the State of Virginia, by the usual route' 
 which was partly by steamer and partly by railroad. I 
 therefore bade adieu to my friends, and on the evening 
 of Thursday the 20th July, embarked in the steamer, 
 lying at its moorings on the Potomac. I found it com- 
 fortably and elegantly fitted up, as the American steamers 
 generally are ; although the berths were good, I pre- 
 ferred sleeping on a sofa in the gentlemen's saloon, 
 which, with the assistance of a pillow, 1 did, comfort- 
 ably wrapped up in my cloak. At three o'clock of the 
 next morning we loosed from tlie wharf ; I awoke early, 
 and was up with the dawn, but found myself too late 
 to see General Washington's patrimonial seat. Mount 
 Vernon, justly considered here as classic ground, al- 
 though perhaps remarkable on no other account— we 
 had passed it in the dark. I was in time, however, to 
 admire the beautiful and varied scenery of the river ; 
 the country looking everywhere green and fresh, with' 
 great variety of trees skirting the water's edge— their 
 bright foliage sparkling in the morning's sun. After a 
 very good breakfast, we disembarked about seven o'clock, 
 and took the cars at Ac:]uia Ci-eek, and reached Eich- 
 mond a little after eleven o'clock a.m., passing through 
 a pleasant country. Tlie fare, breakfast included, six- 
 dollars. 
 
 After taking up ray quarters in a good hotel, I looked 
 a little about the town, the general appearance of vvhicli 
 is good ; but found myself too much fatigued to sec 
 much of it that day. 
 
 The people whom I came in contact with were 
 civil and obliging ; being asked, in the course of con- 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 1C9 
 
 with 
 
 versation, whether I was not a foreigner, I repHed, that 
 I was from England, but certainly not a foreigner,'a8 no 
 Englishman could, or perhaps ought to feel himself a 
 foreigner in the United Htates. 
 
 I was now in the capital of a slave State, waited on 
 by black people everywhere. They are certainly not ill 
 treated here ; they seemed to be contented with their 
 condition— of quick parts, with an independence of 
 manner that surprised me. 
 
 Slavery has, nevertheless, a malign influence here, be- 
 cause it keeps out the great tide of emigration, which 
 does not and cannot, for obvious reasons, flow 'into a 
 slave State ; while the free states are prodigiously bene- 
 fited by it : they consequently advance rapidly, while the 
 others remain stationary, if they do not reti'ograde. 
 
 Many of the negroes here are, however, free"; and it is 
 said they might have been all so, but for the injudicious 
 measures of the abolitionists. Of this I could not so 
 well judge. 
 
 The climate and soil are understood to be well adapted 
 for free labour, and not unsuitable to the English consti- 
 tution, with exception, probably, of tlie months of July 
 and August in the towns and plains, when the heat is 
 certainly very oj)pressive. 
 
 The custom of drinking iced- water prevails here, us 
 in other parts of the Union, and is certainly a great 
 luxury ; but it requires to be indulged in with caution 
 by a stranger. I found it prudent to qualify mine with 
 a little brandy, especially during the hot season, al- 
 though otherwise not addicted to strong waters ; it is a 
 custom, though now general, but of receut origin. 
 
 On further acquaintance with the town, I found it to 
 be commodious, with a general good appearance ; but 
 not large, numbering about 30,000 inhabitants. 
 
 
 > II 
 
 
170 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ^ I visited the Staie House, built on a commanding 
 situation, in the form of a Grecian temple (a favourite 
 style, and not unadapted to the climate), with a portico 
 supported by six large columns ; in the interior, under a 
 dome, there is a statue of General Washington, executed 
 by a French artist, employed by General La Fayette for 
 the purpose, and said to be the best extant. The artist, 
 I was told, lost his head in the French Kevolution— a 
 common occurrence in those days. 
 
 I afterwards visited the courts of law ; and then, from 
 the railway bridge, the falls as they are called, but 
 rather the rapids of the James River, on the banks of 
 which the town is situated, and on which there are 
 manufactories, a paper-mill, &c., worked by water-power, 
 which is considerable— but it is said they do not flourish. 
 Land at a distance fjrom the town is said to be low- 
 priced, and without purchasers. 
 
 Sunday, 23d, I went to St. Paul's Episcopal Church, 
 near the State House— the fashionable congregation. 
 On intimating my desire, as a stranger, for a seat^ an 
 elderly gentleman politely invited me to accompany him 
 to his pew, ensconcing me between himself and his 
 better-half, where, in the body of the church, fronting 
 the clergyman, I could botli hear and see. The service^ 
 I thought, went heavily on, sermon inclusive, by one 
 and the same party ; the congregation seemed composed 
 of fine folks ; the young ladies handsomely dressed, with 
 a knot of young gentlemen assembled at the door to see 
 them come out. 
 
 Next day a Scotch gentleman, an old and wealthy 
 resident, to whom I had a letter, took me to the tobacco 
 stores, the great staple of the State, giving me some 
 particulars of the manner in which this trade is con- 
 ducted ; it comes to the stores packed in barrels. 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 171 
 
 The growers, it appears, generally sell by auction 
 (which, indeed, I saw going on), commanding a re- 
 munerative price ; it is bought up by the merchants, 
 men of capital, who, after supplying the home market 
 ship the remainder for Europe. 
 
 Tobacco which could be sold for 3d. per pound, pays 
 a duty ri England of 3s. ; consequently, in shipping for 
 that market, for which the demand is great, the stems 
 anu the coarser parts are removed; these are shipped 
 tor Holland, where the duty is moderate, and there 
 manufactured into snuff for the German market. 
 
 Tobacco is perhaps as fair a subject for taxation as 
 any ; it is said to realize, in Great Britain and Ireland 
 about four millions sterling annually-a large sum' 
 towards the expenses of the State, while it is perhaps 
 not felt to be individually oppressive. 
 
 The best cigar costs threepence in England ; a cio-ar 
 here of the same quality three cents-that is, three hdf 
 pence, the difference of price is perhaps not too great 
 under the circumstances ; it would be well perhaps if 
 our other taxes were laid on equally judiciously for no 
 one probably, high or low, finds his expenditure in 
 tobaccu burdensome to his pocket. 
 
 My friend also introduced me to the reading-room by 
 which I was enabled to enjoy the luxury of an English 
 newspaper, and wonder over the affairs „: Europe 
 
 Tuesday, July 25.-1 left Richmond this morning 
 by the Louisa railruad to Gordonsville, booking on to 
 Staunton, via Charlottesville, fi^m whence we proceeded 
 in large four-horse coaches, carrying nine inside, en route 
 for the ^^irginia springs, where i ^..uposed to puss a 
 month of the hot weather. 
 
 As far as I went by rail, the scenery seemed com- 
 paratively tame ; as the mountains came in sight, it 
 
 M> 
 
 
 i 
 
 ,!m? 
 
172 
 
 f 
 
 Ji 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 improved wonderfully ; we arrived about eight in the 
 evening at Charlottesville, where, on learning that we 
 were to resume our journey at two in the morning, I 
 prefeired, rather than go to bed for the few intervening 
 hours, to sleep on a bench in the bar of the hotel. 
 
 ^ Next day we reached Staunton about one o'clock to 
 dinner ; afterwards we continued our route by a con- 
 veyance of the same description, and reached a place, 
 tlie name of which I forget, about nine, to leave again 
 at three, i.e., in the dark ; as the day dawned, we found 
 ourselves embosomed in the most romantic mountains, 
 covered by tlie primeval forest, winding and ascending 
 the hills, until, about nine o'clock a.m., we reached the 
 summit and looked down upon the warm springs, situated 
 in a valley of the mountains, sholtered by their highest 
 ridges, when we drove rapidly down to a comfortable 
 hotel, full of company. 
 
 After breakfast, I was not long in seeking out the 
 bath, for the roads had been so bad, and the coach so 
 heaxy, that I arrived necessarily much fatigued. I 
 found the bath delightfully refreshing ; it was about live 
 and a half feet deep, boiling out of its stony bottom as 
 clear as crystal, at a temperature of about ninety-eiglit 
 degrees of Fahrenheit, from the smell, strongly impreg- 
 nated with sulphur : in this 1 indulged for about half 
 an hour, swimming and floating about much to my 
 satisfaction. 
 
 The fare to Staunton was seven dollars ; from thence 
 to the warm springs, four dollars ; my expenses on the 
 road, about three dollars— in all, fourteen dollars. 
 
 The Virginia springs are situated in the Alleghany 
 range of mountains, the mean height of which may be 
 between two and three thousand feet above the level 
 of the eea ; they form the fashionable watering-places 
 
 if! 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 173 
 
 of the southern portion of the Union, and are much 
 resorted to ; there are several of them, all more or less 
 celebrated, and spread over a romantic, wooded region, 
 commanding many iine views and objects of curiosity. 
 
 The warm springs, in the county of Bath, where I 
 now was, is one of the oldest of the watering-places ; it 
 consisted of little more than the hotel, the village, with 
 its row or two of lodging-houses, and staff oVblack 
 assistants. 
 
 There were two large cii-cular baths, pleasantly situ- 
 ated— one for ladies, and the other for gentlemen ; each 
 covered in by a wooden building, in which were dre'ssino-- 
 rooms surrounding and opening upon the bath, which 
 was of consideral)le diameter, and constructed to be used 
 in common at one time by as many as there were dress- 
 ing-rooms provided for. 
 
 I fo-md a very pleasant party of ladies and gentlemen 
 assembled at the hotel, about eigiity in number; these 
 would be added to or decreased every mornin"" as fh»- 
 coach arrived, changed horses, and passed on, leaving 
 the mail and any other news from the world below us. ° 
 
 The change of temperature was delightful, from .. 
 burning heat in the towns and plains, accompanied by 
 intense thirst, to a climate resembling moderate sumnitr 
 weather in England ; a tine herbage where cleared, mth 
 occasional sudden and heavy showers from the attraction 
 of the hills, with a total absence of mosquitoes and otlier 
 noxious insects. 
 
 The valley where we were was partially cleared, and 
 bearing fine crops of Indian corn ; above us, at no great 
 distance, stood a flag-staff, indicative of the highest 
 point of the surrounding hills; to reach this, I ascended 
 the coach road to its summit, and then turned aside 
 through the forest by a bridle pa^h ; the view from it 
 
 a 
 
174 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 represented a succession of hills, covered throughont by 
 a dense forest of oaks, as far as the eye could reach, and 
 seeming to follow each other in succession, like the'dark 
 billows of a tempestuous ocean ; a small patch of cleared 
 ground here and there. 
 
 Sunday, 30th.— A clergyman of the Episcopal Church 
 preached a very good sermon in the saloon of our hotel ; 
 more company arrived by the morning coach ; fur- 
 ther news from France, by which, it would appear, 
 discontent still prevailed, and further disturbances were 
 feared. 
 
 ^ As coming from the old country T ^et with marked 
 civility and attention from ever^ , consequently I 
 passed my time much to my satistaction ; after break- 
 fast, part of the morning was passed in conversation, a 
 bath, and then a saunter alone probably followed. ' I 
 then read in my cabin until dinner, after which I would 
 sometimes join a group in a cigar. After tea, I gene- 
 rally spent the evening in the ladies' drawing-room, 
 where I was inv iably well received. The gentlemen 
 would introduce ^ to the ladies of their party, who 
 conversed with me . .out England, and on general' sub- 
 jects, lending me books to read. 
 
 Sometimes a little quadrille was made up from the 
 juniors of the party, when three negro musicians were 
 sent for to play the banjo, as it is called, which consisted 
 of three instruments, a violin, a tambourine, 1 think, 
 and tiie third the skull of an ass, played upon by a 
 collar-bone of the same animal, sounding not unlike the 
 Spanish castanets. 
 
 Those men were probably slaves, and as such I beheld 
 them with interest ; they seemed clever, good-humoured 
 and contented. ' 
 
 Tlie Virginians are aristocratic in their notions ; they 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 175 
 
 took pride in telling me that they were the last to sub- 
 mit to the Commonwealth untler Cromwell. 
 
 They did not attempt to defend slavery in itself, 
 observing that it was introduced by England in the 
 first instance ; that their fortunes and institutions were 
 bound up with it, and they did not feel called upon to 
 ruin themselves to gratify the philanthropy of others ; 
 that England had abandoned the slave-trade relucts 'itly' 
 , after a long struggle in Parliament ; and that her abo- 
 lition of slavery was a recent measure. 
 
 But they would not allow that the slaves were in a 
 general way ill treated, or if left to themselves, discon- 
 tented with their condition ; but that their young 
 masters growing up with them from their infancy, their 
 rule over them in after-life was disposed to be patriarchal. 
 My observation could only be superficial ; as far as it 
 went I saw nothing to contradict this in their treat- 
 ment of them as household servants. I had not, how- 
 ever, seen them at field labour, more especially in the 
 cotton, rice, or sugar plantations. 
 
 The books lent me at this time were one or two num- 
 bers of the Edinburgh Review, " Count Monthelon," 
 whom I have already quoted, and " Now and Then," by 
 Mr. Warren, who has imitated Sir Walter Scott not 
 unsuccessfully, in making the merit of the work consist 
 in the truth of the details. 
 
 It was hinted to me here, that although slavery was 
 made the stalking-horse, the real question at issue be- 
 tween the two great sections of the Union is the tariff 
 Mr. Polk's term of ofiice drawing to a close, the lohig, 
 or, as it would be termed at home, the conservative 
 party, had set up Geneial Taylor, a southern man ; not 
 because he would suit them best, but because he was 
 the only one likely to be successful on their side, from 
 
170 
 
 KECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 I! 
 
 his popularity as a general ; the other, the deiiiociatic 
 party, uiRlerstood to favour a low tarifi", had set U]) 
 Genend CasH, also a southern man. A meeting was 
 called in our neighhourhood to discuss the merits of the 
 two candidates, whicli I had the cnriosity to attend. 
 The assembly was full, and the proceedings were con- 
 ducted with decorum. General Taylor's ngent spoke 
 first, and the gist of his argument seemed to be, that 
 such had been the burdens entailed on the Union l)y 
 Mr. President Polk's Mexican War, that in case of the 
 success of his candidate, it might be found necessary to 
 do away with the comparatively free-trade tariff of 184G, 
 anti fall back on that of 1841 ; this was not very pala- 
 table to a southern audience. The agent for the other 
 party, in urging the merits of his candidate, promised, 
 in case of his success, that there should be no increase 
 of the tariff, but suggested that any deficiency in the 
 i-evenue might be made up by a direct impost. 1 leant 
 in favour of General Taylor, until I understood the 
 alternative of his election was to be a high tariff. 
 
 General Taylor was duly elected to the President's 
 Chair, and gave promise of filling it with tact and judg- 
 ment, when he was carried off by death. No alteratimi 
 in the tariff took place under his government. 
 
 Mr. Louis Filmore, the Vice-President, a northern 
 man, \yho may be supposed to be more completely in 
 the whig or conservative interest, succeeded to the Pre- 
 sident's Chair, in virtue of the article of the constitution 
 providing for it. 
 
 ^ He did not find it safe, however, to make any altera- 
 tion in the tariff, and it probably will not be attempted ; 
 the general revenue being flourishing. In which case 
 the manufacturing interest throughout the Union, instead 
 of being a rickety baby, supported at the expense of 
 
 
 
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 I 
 
 SI 
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 d{ 
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TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 m 
 
 1""- 
 
 
 th. rest of the oonnnunity, may Imve the opport.mity 
 to bocorae a v,g„;-,uB 8elf-s,i,,,,orting pl«„t, of bIow but 
 sure growth. 
 
 Among the bo. K8 now lent n,e wer. the "Bachelor 
 of the Albany, on-> of the ephemeral w„rks of the day 
 but readable, and having the merit of being compre- 
 hended in one volume; "th. Falcon Family," by the 
 same author, but not, I think, so good ; and the "Mis- 
 cellannms Assays of Sir Walter Scott," consisting chiefly 
 of his critiques from the Edinburgh and Quarterly 
 Reviews, and his letters, signed, Malachi Malagrowt^ei 
 on the currency of Scotland ; his object ' .ing to pre- 
 vent the bill to do away with the one-pound r.otes then 
 pending in Parliament, being made applicable to h's 
 own country ; the case 12 fairly stated and ably argued 
 they are understood to have drawn at the time the 
 attention they merited from the Government, and were 
 probably the main cause of the success of the obiect 
 aimed at. ^'^j^^i 
 
 I occasionally saw a game of quoits played, and there 
 was a bowling-alley under cover. 
 
 An event now broke in upon the serenity of our quiet 
 community. On the evening of Thursday, the 10th of 
 August, we were alarmed by loud screams proceedir,. 
 from a sui e of private apartments ; an invalid gentle! 
 man had died suddenly in the arms of his wife from 
 disease of the heart. He, it appears, was a German b" 
 birth, partner with his brother in a mercantile firm a^ 
 i3altimore, and had been seeking the benefit of the 
 springs for his health ; his wife was young, the mother 
 of three children, her distress heart-rendin<? 
 
 The funeral took place on the evening of the next 
 day as was thought to be desirable on accomit of the 
 heat, followed by all the male inmates of the hotel 
 
 
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178 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 after an appropriate discourse and prayer in the draw- 
 ing-room, by the clergyman of the village, at which the 
 widow assisted in a state of great excitement and dis- 
 tress ; after which she left by the stage, en route for 
 Baltimore, in charge of a friend. 
 
 The churchyard was small but romantically situated, 
 with apparently few tenants ; among the number, I ob- 
 served a marble monument of some pretension to a Mr. 
 Alexander Brydie, a native of Scotland, who died a.d. 
 1800, in his thirty-fourth year. The grave-digger, I 
 observed, was a negro. 
 
 This untoward event cast a general gloom over the 
 party, who began to disperse in different directions. 
 After lingering a few days, I packed up, and left after 
 breakfast by the coach, on Thursday, 17th August, for 
 the hot springs, a distance of five miles ; but the route 
 somewhat long from its hilliness ; the road running 
 from one valley opening into another, with a stream 
 running generally in the bottom of each. 
 
 The charge for board and lodging at the hotel was 
 eight dollars per week ; the coach fare half a dollar. 
 
 The hot sjjrings are situated in a valley, embosomed 
 among mountain peaks. Bathing-houses have been 
 erected, and every accommodation provided. The baths 
 are six in number, each being supplied from a separate 
 spring, and so constructed as to be occupied by only one 
 at a time. They range in temperature from 98° to 
 106°. 
 
 The hotel seemed to be tolerably well arranged, the 
 number of visitors much the same as in the one I had 
 left ; there, however, they appeared to consist more of 
 fine folks, in search of amusement as well as health — to 
 see and be seen ; here, mostly invalids, seeking and 
 finding benefit from the use of the waters. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 179 
 
 ihe draw- 
 
 vhich the 
 
 and dis- 
 
 route for 
 
 situated, 
 ber, I ob- 
 to a Mr. 
 died A.D. 
 digger, I 
 
 over the 
 irections. 
 left after 
 igiist, for 
 the route 
 
 runniug 
 a. stream 
 
 lotel was 
 oUar. 
 ibosomed 
 ive been 
 'he baths 
 separate 
 only one 
 I 98° to 
 
 iged, the 
 ne I had 
 more of 
 alth — to 
 ing and 
 
 Next day I tried the hot-spout bath of 102° which 
 I found to be bearable as to heat, and remarkably 
 pleasant. My general health also seemed improved bv 
 the change of air. 
 
 I found the company disposed to be sociable • but I 
 was at a great loss for books, there being no periodicals 
 or other woiks-scarcely a newspaper to be had. 
 
 I became acquainted with some Virginian gentlemen 
 of the better class, with whom I had much pleasant con- 
 versation. 
 
 Also with three gentlemen from the old country (Ire- 
 land), all of whom had prospered. 
 
 One of these came out, he told me, without a shillin- • 
 got into a retail shop or store in one of the towns which 
 eventually became his own, sending home for all his 
 brothers, in succession. It is true, this may be done at 
 home-there are instances of it every day ; but there is 
 not room for all. No man need fear a large family at 
 home, provided he can give his children some education 
 and bring them up to industrious habits, with a view to 
 tne colonies. A sound mind in a sound body, and their 
 own exertions will do the rest. One man was pointed 
 out to me from my own country, who had come out with 
 a pack on his back-^.e., a pedlar ; he had been success- 
 tul, and was rich ; with a keen Aberdeen accent • he was 
 unassuming in his deportment, and I respected him 
 
 Another had resided for some years at New Orleans • 
 the damp climate of which, he told me, enabled him 
 to relish a glass of whisky punch, as much as in the 
 old country. 
 
 I certainly was very much struck with the moderation 
 of the Americans in this respect here, as elsewhere in 
 the Union ; it is, no doubt, in part owing to the dryness 
 ot their atmosphere wtfich renders a stimulant of the 
 
mmm 
 
 m 
 
 180 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 '} \ 
 
 kind less necessary than with us, in oiir humid 
 climate. 
 
 Wednesday, 23d August. — A lady lent me Miss 
 Martineau's work on America, which much interested 
 me for the rest of the day. 
 
 I had now remained here the week I intended ; I 
 therefore, on Thursday, 24th August, bade adieu to the 
 ])arty at the hotel, and, after breakfast, took the coach 
 that passed its door for the White Sulphur Springs ; the 
 distance not quite forty miles, but the roads heavy from 
 late rains. I got the box seat, the better to see the 
 mountain scenery. We dined about half way, at four 
 o'clock. Heavy rain coming on shortly i^fter, I was 
 compelled to take refuge inside. We reached our jour- 
 ney's end in the dark. After a refreshing supper, I re- 
 tired to a tolerably comfortable cabin ; the whole place 
 being as yet a terra incognita to me. 
 
 The charge for the week's board was ten dollars ; the 
 fare by the coach three dollars. 
 
 The White Sulphur Springs are situated on a branch 
 of the Greenbrier River, in the county of Greenbrier, 
 and valley of Howard's Creek. They are the most cele- 
 brated and most generally visited ; consequently, on 
 looking round me next morning, I found everything 
 aiTanged in a suitable style. 
 
 Besides the main building of the hotel, which was on 
 a large scale, there was a large circle of the better sort 
 of cabins or houses for families, a ball-room, and other 
 out buildings, with several rows of smaller cabins, like 
 my own (consisting of a sitting and bed room), branch- 
 ing off. The large circle, or rather oval, was ornamented 
 with trees and gravel walks ; the cold spring-well for 
 drinking being at one extremity under a dome supported 
 by pillars. 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 r humid 
 
 me Miss 
 nterested 
 
 3nded ; I 
 3U to the 
 he coach 
 ogs ; the 
 avy from 
 t see the 
 ", at four 
 r, I was 
 )ur jour- 
 )er, I re- 
 ole place 
 
 ars ; the 
 
 I branch 
 eenbrier, 
 lost cele- 
 sntly, on 
 erything 
 
 1 was on 
 tter sort 
 id other 
 tins, like 
 branch- 
 amented 
 ■well for 
 ipported 
 
 181 
 
 
 In the course of my promenade I drank a glass of 
 the water which I did not find unpleasant ; it appeared 
 to be slightly impregnated with sulphur to the smell and 
 taste-not unlike what I have heard the Harrogate water 
 to be. I recognised many of my friends from the other 
 spnngs who received me again most kindly, introducing 
 me to their friends. I next called at the post-office'' 
 which here formed a part of the establishment, as it did 
 at the others, but was disappointed in not finding letters 
 waiting me, either from England or ^va Scotia 
 
 V^^e sat down to dinner, between three and four 
 lundred ; the dinner and waiting tolerable. I found 
 iiere a news-room, much to my satisfaction. 
 
 In the evening I looked into the ball-room where I 
 saw some gay young folks dnncing. Among the rest 
 Home J^rench ladies and gentlemen from New Orleans ' 
 they seemed nice young people, and as much French in 
 manners and appearance, as if they had come direct from 
 i'aris. I madu the same remark at Montreal, and after- 
 wards at Quebec. 
 
 Sunday 27th August.-We attended Divine service 
 m the ball-room, an Episcopal clergyman, a visitor at 
 the spnngs, officiating. His text, "Make unto your- 
 selves friends of the mammon of unrighteousness " 
 
 In the evening I took a walk, accompanied by a 
 brother Scot, to admire the fine scenery by which we 
 were surrounded ; in the course of which we ascended a 
 path leading into a neighbouring valley, and command- 
 ing a fine view of it. In clearing this valley, enough of 
 forest trees have been left to give it a fine clothed ap- 
 pearance, while these, having room and air, have ex- 
 panded into magnificent dimensions, mostlv oak, walnut 
 and elm ; the repose and verdure of the scene'remind- 
 mg me of England. ^ 
 
 lifitl] 
 
182 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 I ' 
 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 One day was very much the repetition of another 
 with me. I was much struck with the good-breeding and 
 propriety of all around me — no undue assumption on the 
 part of any one — not one instance of discord, rudeness, 
 or intemperance. 
 
 The state of Ireland excited much attention. About 
 this time news arrived that matters had come to a crisis, 
 and that the outbreak had been put down. I observed 
 that the sympathies of the Virginians were all with 
 England on this subject ; nor did I think them over 
 friendly to the new French Kevolution. 
 
 Among others whom the company had attracted to 
 the Springs, was a daguerreotype artist, a respectable- 
 looking young man from Scotland. It was the fashion 
 to sit to him; I went with the others and had my 
 likeness taken, thinking I could not do less than 
 patroiiize my countryman. His charge was three dollars, 
 and he probably reaped a good harvest. 
 
 One night as I sat alone in my cabin, absorbed in 
 my book, a black man entered, on some pretext, with a 
 candle, sat down beside me without the least ceremony, 
 then pointing to the book, desired me to read aloud to 
 him. This I did. He then asked me how the Mexican 
 war went on. In reply to which, I beggr'^ to be allowed 
 to ask, in my turn, what had led to the .. jnour of a visit 
 from him at that hour of the night. To which he re- 
 plied, that he was a free negro, and that the Virginians 
 were going to turn all such out of their State. Besides, 
 he added, that being accustomed to be waited on by 
 slaves, they never inought of giving anything to the ser- 
 vants on going away ; thinking that such subjects might 
 possibly be tabooed in Virginia, more especially in re- 
 ference to the party in question. I seized the favourable 
 opportunity to dismiss him, with an assurance that I 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 183 
 
 - another 
 (ding and 
 m on the 
 rudeness, 
 
 . About 
 a crisis, 
 observed 
 all with 
 lem over 
 
 •acted to 
 pectable- 
 e fashion 
 had my 
 ess than 
 (e dollars, 
 
 sorbed in 
 :t, with a 
 eremonv, 
 aloud to 
 Mexican 
 } allowed 
 of a visit 
 h he re- 
 irginians 
 Besides, 
 )d on by 
 ) the ser- 
 its might 
 ly in re- 
 ivourable 
 e that I 
 
 would take care not to commit the mistake of the Vir- 
 ginians in that respect with regard to him, provided he 
 undertook to call me in time on the morning of my 
 departure. 
 
 September had now arrived ; the zenith of the season 
 had passed. The company, of which there had been a 
 daily flux and reflux, had thinned down to a hundred ; 
 even my daguerreotype friend was packing up his traps ; 
 all which reminded me that I must think of resuming 
 my journey, which I fixed for the Monday morning. In 
 the meantime, I entered the ball-room in the evening, 
 where I found few people, and no dancing, the musicians 
 amusing themselves in practising. After their national 
 tune of "Yankee doodle," they played in succession, 
 " Within a mile o' sweet Edinburgh town," " Oh where' 
 and where does my Highland laddie dwell ?" and 
 " Kule Britannia I" At these well-known airs my heart 
 leaped, as it did one night at Washington, on hearing in 
 bed some one in the street trilling, as he went along 
 " Should auld acquaintance be forgot ?" 
 
 Sunday, 3d September, a Baptist minister preached 
 in the ball-room from Isaiah— a Calvinistic sermon on 
 the Atonement. 
 
 Monday, 4th September, being duly called by my 
 black friend, I took the coach for Charleston in Virginia, 
 at three o'clock in the morning, first slipping half a 
 dollar into his hand, to his great delight. 
 
 I was now travelling westward with the object of 
 striking the Ohio by the Kanawha River. 
 
 We breakfasted and dined on the road, travelling 
 through wooded valleys, very much such a country a's 
 I had left, accompanied by very pleasant passengers, 
 until we took in an elderly man with a slave girl, whom' 
 he told us he had ju^t purchased for 500 dollars. He 
 
 am 
 
 ^'' 
 
184 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 I 
 
 got her at that price, he said, on account of her bad 
 temper. She seemed very unhappy for the first part of 
 the route, but grew more cheerful afterwards. 
 
 Arriving at the Blue Sulphur Springs to change 
 horses, we had time to taste the water, and complete our 
 number of passengers. 
 
 Having supped and slept on the road, we continued 
 our route through a country very much as before, only 
 that the valleys widened and appeared more cleared and 
 cultivated, with better farm-houses, until we approached 
 an eminence, called the Hawk's Nest, commanding a front 
 view of a narrow wooded valley, with a mountain stream 
 threading the centre, being the Kanawha at or near its 
 source. The better to see this, the coachman drew up 
 for a short time, and we all got out. 
 
 We approached the salt-works, about twelve miles 
 from Charleston (which we regretted we had not time 
 to visit), after which it appeared a busy scene all the 
 way to the town, where we obtained accommodation for 
 the night at a very good hotel. 
 
 The fare by coach, eight dollars ; the board at the 
 White Sulphur Hotel, ten dollars per week. 
 
 Before taking leave of the Virginia springs, I may 
 mention that there are some objects of curiosity which 
 I had not an opportunity to see, such as the natural 
 bridge. It consists of a stupendous natural arch of 
 limestone rock, over a small stream called Cedar Creek. 
 The view from the top is said to be very grand. The 
 height from the stream to the top of the bridge being 
 215 feet; its average width 80 feet; and its extreme 
 length at the top 95 feet. It is sixty-three miles from 
 the White Sulphur Springs. 
 
 Weir's Cave, seventeen miles from Staunton, extend- 
 ing about 2500 feet in length ; divided into several 
 
 iuL 'A 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 185 
 
 her bad 
 it part of 
 
 I change 
 plete our 
 
 ontinued 
 ore, ouly 
 ired and 
 broached 
 g a front 
 1 stream 
 near its 
 drew up 
 
 'e miles 
 lot time 
 ^ all the 
 ition for 
 
 at the 
 
 I may 
 
 y which 
 natural 
 irch of 
 ' Creek. 
 . The 
 ) being 
 xtreme 
 IS from 
 
 jxtend- 
 several 
 
 
 apartments, the walls of which are formed of crystallized 
 carbonate of lime, or calcareous spar. And Madison's 
 Cave, a short distance from the preceding, and somewhat 
 resembling it. 
 
 There are deer in the forest, because venison was a 
 standing dish at table. They are brought in by hunters 
 who know their haunts, and never miss a shot. 
 
 If this country was cleared, or the trees thinned so as 
 to resemble an English park or chase, it would be the 
 finest pastoral region in the world— the land being of 
 the best quality, judging from the trees, which \re 
 mostly oak. 
 
 At present, the trees are too closely packed for any- 
 thing to grow under them, consequently there must be 
 little food for game. Pigs are turned in to feed on the 
 acorns and other nuts in the autumn ; there are also 
 rattlesnakes, but none of these I saw. 
 
 Such as it is, it merits the curiosity of a tourist, and 
 will amply reward him. 
 
 He will find the Virginians a superior class of peo- 
 ple, hospitable to a degrcb to a stranger from the old 
 country. 
 
 11 
 
 ill 
 
 
 
 r 
 
186 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 1 
 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 CHARLESTON— KANAWHA RIVER — STKAMEU— LFADKN PLATE — 
 OHIO RIVER— CINCINNATI— LOUISVILLE— MAMMOTH CAVE. 
 
 Charleston is a small town of little note, on the 
 bank of the river Kanawha, where it becomes navigable. 
 
 Next day (Wednesday the 6th September), we em- 
 barked in the Triumph steamer for Cincinnati. The 
 river was shallow from the season of the year, and 
 although our steamer was not large, we went aground 
 several times, which permitted of our going ashore, 
 which many did, amusing themselves in the woods 
 which skirt its margin. 
 
 Thursday, 7th.— Obliged to rough matters on board ; 
 pleasant passengers nevertheless, with whom we pass 
 the time agreeably. One gentleman from the north, 
 argues strongly for a high tariff; in which I oppose 
 him, supported by the Southerns. Reach the mouth of 
 the Kanawha this evening, as it flows into the Ohio at 
 a right angle. 
 
 We were shown at the village, where it enters, the 
 leaden plate buiied by the French here about a hundred 
 years ago, with a suitable inscription indicative of their 
 intention to claim the whole valley of the Mississippi, 
 in right of discovery ; to connect their two provinces of 
 Canada and Louisiana, which had caused so much 
 alarm to our English colonists. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATKg. 
 
 187 
 
 PLATE- 
 CAVE. 
 
 , on the 
 ivigable. 
 we em- 
 i. The 
 Jar, and 
 aground 
 ashore, 
 I woods 
 
 board ; 
 we pass 
 3 north, 
 
 oppose 
 louth of 
 Ohio at 
 
 ers, the 
 lundred 
 of their 
 sissippi, 
 inces of 
 ) much 
 
 Friday, 8th.— Occupied the whole day in dropping 
 down the Ohio— the steamer heavily laden with grain 
 and other goods. 
 
 Saturday, 9th.— Reached Cincinnati about noon : the 
 faro no more than four dollars, including board,— it not 
 being the custom to charge extra for meals in the 
 Western river steamers. 
 
 The Oliio is, as I expected, a magnificent river. It 
 is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Mon- 
 angahela rivers at Pittsburgh, in Pennsylvania. It 
 runs westward in a uniform smooth and placid current ; 
 its banks are generally high and precipitous, rising into 
 bluffs and cliffs, sometimes to the height of 300 feet. 
 Little or nothing of the country, on either side, is visible 
 beyond its banks ; but, by the rich alluvium of which 
 they are composed, I could form some judgment of its 
 fertility. 
 
 It is navigable for its whole length, from Pittsburgh 
 to its mouth, where it flows into the Mississippi— a dis- 
 tance of 1001 miles, with exception of some short rapids 
 at Louisville. 
 
 To enable steamers to surmount this impediment, a 
 canal has been dug for three or four miles in length, 
 with great labour ; the rock has been excavated to some 
 depth, and a series of good substantial locks built. 
 
 Owing to the great expense of excavating the hard 
 strata through which the canal passes, it has been made 
 only sufficiently wide for one steamer to pass at a time. 
 When two or three steamers arrive at Louisville from 
 up and down the river, much delay arises ; to obviate 
 which, a proposal has been made to make another canal 
 on the opposite side of the river, to accommodate a por- 
 tion of the traffic. This has not, however, been as yet 
 commenced. 
 
188 
 
 UKC0LLECT1UN8 OF A VISIT 
 
 Ciocinnttti, tho most populous city of the Wostoru 
 States, is a town l>ut of yesterday. Its population in 
 1800, was only 750 ; in 1845, it mustered 80,000, with 
 every promise of a large increase. It is built mostly of 
 brown sandstone, on two hills rising from the water's 
 edge, the one elevated Irom forty to sixty feet above the 
 other ; laid out, as to be expeeteil, with rcguhuity— the 
 streets, some of which are sixty feet in width, intersect- 
 ing each other at right angles. 
 
 The "Queen City of the West," as it is called, enjoys 
 great facilities for commerce, commanding, by the Ohio 
 and other rivers connected with it, a water communica- 
 tion of some thousands of miles. 
 
 It is also said to be the greatest pork market in the 
 world ; more than 250,000 hogs being slaughtered and 
 prepared for exportation in the year 1844. It has also 
 large manufactories of hardware. Great numbers of 
 Scotch and Irish are settled here. 
 
 I took up my abode in the Broadway Hotel, where I 
 was tolerably comfortable during the day, but devoured 
 by mosquitoes at night. 
 
 Sunday, 10th September.— I attended the Episcopal 
 Churcl), where I heard but an iiidififerent sermon. 
 
 Monday, 11th.— I went to see the Observatory, into 
 which I was not admitted, but had a fine view of the 
 city from the eminence on which it is situated, which 
 seemed to be encircled with high grounds, appearing to 
 confine the cloud of coal smoke given out by the chim- 
 neys of its numerous manufactories, which prevents the 
 aspect of the town being agreeable to a stranger, while 
 it gives proof of its prosperity. 
 
 The Kentucky side of the river presents a compara- 
 tively small but pleasant suburb. The merchants, and 
 others, prefer to reside there, coming over to their 
 
Wostoiu 
 lution in 
 )0(), with 
 mostly of 
 wator'n 
 ibove the 
 rity— the 
 iiitersect- 
 
 d, enjoys 
 the Ohio 
 imunica- 
 
 it in the 
 ered and 
 has also 
 nbers of 
 
 where I 
 levoured 
 
 Ipiscopal 
 1. 
 
 )ry, into 
 V of the 
 1, which 
 aring to 
 e chim- 
 ents the 
 r, while 
 
 >mpara- 
 its, and 
 their 
 
 TO THE UNITED HTATK8. Jgp 
 
 counting-houses by a ferry which crosses every five 
 minutes. ^ 
 
 Among other indications of prosperity, there is in this 
 town a largo and handHomo theatre, in which I sp.w the 
 play ot Hamlet, tolerably got up; the part of ILmilet 
 by an American star, a Mr. Murdoch. 
 
 On pricing the markets, I foiuid fine roasting beef to 
 be SIX cents, ie, 3d. per pound ; pork, four cents. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the town I ob:^erved exten- 
 «ive vineyards, with the view of making wine on a large 
 Hoale, but with what success 1 did not learn 
 
 Wednesday, 13th.-I embarked on board the Gondo- 
 lier, a large steamer, for Louisville, at four p.m. We did 
 not however leave until after five. There was a lui^re 
 number of passengers on board. Pleasure had shut her 
 play-book, and the company were flooding down from 
 the hills to resume the serious business of life in their 
 western homes. We sat down to a comfortable meal 
 being tea and supper combined, when the tables were 
 removed, and beds made up the whole length of the 
 saloon Much civility was shown me as a stranger 
 from the old country, and a bed made up for me on the 
 only table permitted to remain, on which I slept com- 
 fortably, but got up early to enjoy the view on both sides 
 of the river ; its banks very much covered, as usual, with 
 the torest ; no view generally beyond. 
 
 We breakfasted at seven, and reached Louisville 
 about nine a.m., a distance of 138 miles ; the fare bein- 
 two dollars-remarkably low, when it is considered the 
 two meals in question were included. 
 
 Louisville, in the State of Kentucky, is a town of 
 some pretension ; it is situated on the left bank of the 
 river, on a plain ; it may contain about 30,000 inhabi- 
 tants. It is built of red brick, and laid out in regular 
 
 I'' 
 
'* •• 
 
 190 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 ■' ' 
 
 streets at right angles ; the immediate bank of the river 
 is occupied by shops, warehouses, and business premises, 
 but beyond these are many elegant houses, situated in 
 gardens and pleasure-grounds, with apartments diverging 
 behind from the main building for the slave servants ; 
 Kentucky being, like its neighbour Virginia, a slave State. 
 I took up my abode at the Louisville Hotel, a large 
 and commodious house kept by an Englishman. 
 
 A young American gentleman, one of my stage and 
 steam-boat friends, a native here, gave me a drive to 
 show me the environs of the town ; it appeared to stand 
 on an alluvial plain formed by the river, consequently 
 rich and fertile. 
 
 In the evening there was a ball in the saloon of our 
 hotel, at which I took a peep ; the belle of the town 
 was pointed out to nje, and other beiles I saw, figuring 
 away with some of my fellow-travellers from the springs ; 
 they were well-dressed, good-looking, and happy. 
 
 It is customary m the large towns to publish the 
 arrivals, as I conclude must be the case here, for a gen- 
 tleman from the old country called upon me, introducing 
 himself as knowing something of my connexions at 
 home ; he undertook to be my cicerone about the town, 
 uncovering each roof like another Asraodeus. Among 
 other places, he took me to some Catholic establish- 
 ment — a nunnery, I think — introducing me, as her 
 countryman, to a young Scotchwoman, in the dress of 
 her order, which consisted of white flannel from top to 
 toe, a silver crucifix in front, a curious cap on her head, 
 her beads hanging at her side — a woman twice her age 
 calling her mother. I could hardly help laughing at 
 the twinkle of her eye on the mention of her native 
 to vn in Forfarshire, contrasting so strangely as it did 
 with her travesty dress. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 101 
 
 ihe river 
 )remise8, 
 nated in 
 i verging 
 arvants ; 
 ve State. 
 , a large 
 
 age and 
 drive to 
 to stand 
 5quently 
 
 1 of our 
 le town 
 figuring 
 jprings ; 
 
 lish the 
 r a gen- 
 oducing 
 ions at 
 le town, 
 Among 
 tablJsh- 
 
 as her 
 dress of 
 L top to 
 IT head, 
 her age 
 bing at 
 
 native 
 3 it did 
 
 On asking my new friend whether the houses I ad- 
 mired had cellars to correspond, he said the contents of 
 each would be one demijohn of brandy, and another of 
 whisky. If rich, a fine house must be built ; it must be 
 large that the slaves may appear to live apart, but that 
 It did not necessarily entail any corresponding expense 
 
 About this time, I was waited on by a brother Scot 
 and an Irishman. On asking them their errand-it was 
 to decide a bet-What may it be ? The Scot, who was 
 the spokesman, « I have betted you are an Irishman ; 
 my xTiend that you are from the other side of the 
 1 weed. I looked at them both with some surprise and 
 disp easure, but seeing no offence was meant, I decided 
 the oet with a smile. 
 
 My Scotch friend now asked me whether I recollected 
 the dear year in Scotland-1799, I think. I told him I 
 did. " Well," he said, « that was the doing up of our 
 family altogether. We were driven to seek a home 
 across the Atlantic ; and very well we have done for 
 those spirit stores are mine "-pointing to a large ware- 
 house opposite the hotel window. 
 
 Next morning, I found my new friend sitting before 
 his door, like an ancient patriarch. He took much pride 
 m conducting me over his stores, which were extensive • 
 the whisky I understood him to distil himself as well 
 as other compounds. ' 
 
 The Mammoth Cave of Kentucky was in everybody's 
 mouth. It was the great natural curiosity of their State 
 and I ought to see it. ' 
 
 It would give me, at any rate, an opportunity to see 
 the interior of a State, the name of which had been long 
 tamiliar to me, and which it appeared legitimate that I 
 should become better acquainted with. I therefore on 
 
 Saturday- fh" iipt-h ^ — >■ ' -- ^ i ' '- 
 
 ^a.j i.uv iOun Kjuj^tciuuur, look my place, alter 
 
192 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 :l 
 
 breakfast, in the stage for the caves — a hundred miles 
 distant. 
 
 My fellow-passengers, all bound on the same errand, 
 consisted of a widow lady, her two sons and daughter — 
 genteel people ; a young countryman, settled in trade at 
 New Orleans, who had beea already my travelling com- 
 panion ; and another gentleman connected with that 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 My young countryman had secured the box-seat, as 
 he thought ; he however found it occupied. On remon- 
 strating, the occupant drew a bowie knife ; upon this 
 the coachman was appealed to, but unsuccessfully, for 
 he shuffled. The consequence was, that our friend was 
 compelled to mount on the top of the coach for the first 
 stage, after which he was very glad to come inside. 
 
 This young gentleman, himself pleasant and obliging, 
 was unfortunate ; an attempt had been made to rob him 
 at the springs, he being awoke one night in his cabin by 
 some one who had entered through the window. On 
 our return from the caves, he very kindly lent his silk 
 umbrella to an outside, during a storm of rain ; in the 
 morning, the outside was gone, and the umbrella not 
 forthcoming. 
 
 The young lady, who had been on a visit to England, 
 expected, as she told me, to find no trees there, while 
 she was astonished by their dimensions and grandeur in 
 our English parks. 
 
 Her elder brother had resided for some time in Paris, 
 from v/hich his father's death had called him home. He 
 seemed very partial to France, where he had been during 
 the last Revolution ; giving us some anecdotes of it, and 
 of the state of parties. 
 
 On our route we were supplied with basketfuls of 
 peaches of the finest quality, for a mere trifle. 
 
 
 ( 
 
 * 
 
 11 
 
 V 
 
 1( 
 a 
 
*ed miles 
 
 3 errand, 
 jghter — 
 trade at 
 ing oom- 
 ith that 
 
 :-seat, as 
 1 remon- 
 )on this, 
 iilly, for 
 lend was 
 the first 
 Ide. 
 
 obliging, 
 rob him 
 jabin by 
 >w. On 
 his silk 
 ; in the 
 •ella not 
 
 Ingland, 
 3j while 
 ideur in 
 
 n Paris, 
 Qe. He 
 I during 
 ■ it, and 
 
 tfuls of 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 193 
 
 We slept on the road, and reached the hotel at the 
 cave on the evening of the next day. It was solidly 
 constructed of beams of oak, in its own grounds and full 
 of company. The landlord joined us in^a game of wht 
 and we were all very sociable. Our route had been 
 tZt^^^'-''' country, long settled. Coach 'C, 
 
 The cave was said to extend fifteen miles under 
 ground ; to comprehend a subterranean river, and many 
 natural cunosities. ' ' 
 
 ^■1% Iff morning after breakfast, having hired guides 
 w.th hghts, eet off to the cava in a body,-our mrtv 
 bemg mcreased by one or two stray visitors ^^ 
 
 fallen inT""' ^''. ""T' ' P*'' "^ *« vault had 
 tallen m, leaving a circular aperture of tolerable dimen 
 sions, fnnged by the trees and shrubs of the for^t 
 
 _Un descending, we proceeded with lighted lamps pre 
 ceded by our guides, to pass through large vaZ a^ 
 at other fme. to thread our way through toItS Z 
 ages, ascending and descending ladderLseeing mCh 
 that was curious, when a council was held, the eld^of 
 the party, myself among the number, agreeing to make 
 the shorter tour, occupying about fou houi^ whiinL 
 junior, branched off to be absent the whole daTi!, the 
 
 ntW '1"™*^""'°' ^'"^ ^^"'^' »"'• party, amonff 
 other places, were conducted to what is calM the S 
 
 wmch, on our lamps bemg hung upon the walls gave 
 « veiy much the appearance of a Gothic chape Tl e 
 
 long vault through limestone, in two rows, very much 
 at equa distances from each other, until the cateou, 
 spar had accumulated on the o-round -^-o-Z , °*"°™ 
 
 N 
 
 i^i 
 
 m§ 
 
 ii'' 
 
194 
 
 EECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 drop had at last ceased to have power to fall, but had 
 accumulated and hung from the roof like an icicle, until, 
 in the course of time, it had met the other. These 
 pillars being white and sparkling in the rays of our dim 
 lights, the illusion was complete. 
 
 We were afterwards conducted to what was called the 
 Star-Charaber : being another vaulted apartment, in 
 which it was alleged that, by fixing the eye intently on 
 the roof, a firmament of stars could be seen — but this, 
 to my eyes at least, required some eflfort of the imagina- 
 tion. 
 
 At last we threaded our way out, when the finest 
 thing I saw, probably, was the eflPect of the light and 
 shade of the sun and atmosphere, as we approached at 
 some distance the mouth of the cave ; the effect was 
 finer than anything I could well have imagined, without 
 presenting to the eye any definable object, as if some 
 new creation were opening from the murky cavern in 
 which we were buried for the moment. 
 
 After an absence of eight or nine hours, the younger 
 portion of the party joined us, full, of course, of the 
 wonders they had seen — a river half a mile long, fish in 
 it without eyes ; a snow-ball chamber, from which they 
 brought specimens of calcareous spar, beautifully white, 
 some portions of it resembling strips of celery as it comes 
 to table, and so on. 
 
 With these descriptions I was satisfied, without at- 
 tempting the cave again, my essay at which had already 
 cost me some fatigue. 
 
 We spent a very agreeable evening together, however. 
 The next morning the party broke up, much to my re- 
 gret — the family I have mentioned seeking the mouth of 
 the Ohio by the Cumberland river, while my friend and 
 myself returned to Louisville by the route we had come. 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 but had 
 :le, until, 
 . These 
 
 our dim 
 
 ailed the 
 nent, in 
 ;ently on 
 but this, 
 imagina- 
 
 tie finest 
 ight and 
 ached at 
 feet was 
 without 
 if some 
 avern in 
 
 195 
 
 younger 
 3, of the 
 g, fish in 
 lich they 
 ly white, 
 it comes 
 
 bhout at- 
 l already 
 
 however. 
 my re- 
 nouth of 
 lend and 
 id come. 
 
 
 CHAPTEK XXI. 
 
 KENTUCKY— WESTERN RIVER STEAMERS— ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH 
 —STEAMER TO ST. LOUIS— RIVER MISSISSIPPI— STEAMER TO 
 CHICAGO— ILLINOIS RIVER CANAL. 
 
 Before leaving Kentucky i may as well mention that 
 I was pleased with its aspect and climate— the one is 
 agreeable, the other temperate and healthy while its 
 soil is of undoubted fertility, like its neighbouring State 
 ot Ohio, from which it is only separated by the river • 
 but the tide of immigration is wanting to develop itj 
 resources. This is to be lamented, because, without 
 going into the question of slavery in itself, this State, as 
 well as Virginia, of which it is a continuation westward 
 IS eminently qualified for free labour. Thev are conse- 
 quently, from the want of it, falling behind their 
 neighbouring free States in the race of progression 
 or rather they remain stationary while the others are 
 making rapid progress. For instance, by the census of 
 
 The population of Kentucky (an old State— slave), was 779 828 
 Of Ohio, its bordering Stt.tc, but of yesterday (free), ],519.'467 
 Of Virginia (the oldest State in the Union— slave), 1,239 797 
 Its neighbour, Pennsylvania (a smaller State— free), l'724,'o33. 
 
 The steamers on Lli great western rivers of America— 
 the Ohio, the Mississippi, and the Missouri— differ from 
 
19G 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 If [[ 
 I' i 
 
 ff 
 
 m using engines on 
 
 those on the lakes and the Hudson 
 the high-pressure principle ; this is done probably to 
 obtain a light draught of water, the engines take up a 
 smaller space, while the extra weight of the condenser 
 and its appurtenances is saved. 
 
 As in the steamers on the Hudson formerly described, 
 a light, sharp hull is first constructed, on which is placed 
 a floor or deck, overhanging some three or four feet on 
 each side. On this deck is placed the boiler, cylinders, 
 &c., and the berths for the crew ; the greater part of the 
 cargo being stowed below in the hull. Over the lower 
 deck and machinery is erected a light cabin, extending 
 almost the whole length of the vessel, having a veranda 
 passage all round, only interrupted by the paddle-boxes. 
 
 The same arrangement is, in fact, observed as before 
 described in the Hudson steamers, except that there is no 
 great beam or shaft, boxed up through the cabin. The 
 engines consist of two cylinders, placed horizontally on 
 each side of the vessel, just within the paddle-box, giving 
 motion to a shaft working the paddle — very much the 
 same arrangement as in a railway locomotive engine. 
 
 The high-pressure system is unfortunately the cause 
 of numerous accidents, not so much, I think, from any 
 undue danger in the principle itself, as from the abuses 
 to which it is subjected. 
 
 Racing is common; on leaving large places the 
 steam will be raised to a high pitch, full power set on, 
 Avhen the vessel passes the town at great speed, with 
 guns firing, &c. 
 
 These proceedings of course tend to weaken the 
 engines, and accidents are the result. Moreover, the 
 boilers being placed on the deck, some distance above 
 the keel, it is sometimes found that passengers crowding 
 to one side, on approaching a landing-place, careen the 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 197 
 
 boat, causing the water in the boilers to fall on one side • 
 the exposed parts in the interim becoming red-hot when 
 the water returns, steam of increased pressure is sud- 
 denly generated, and the boiler bursts. 
 
 A railway locomotive boiler is seldom known to burst • 
 therefore, if proper care were taken, these fatal a<;cidents 
 ought not so continually to occur. 
 
 Another cause of accident is fire, which is not easily 
 prevented ; the fuel used being wood, the sparks from 
 which, communicating with the light superstructure 
 ot the calm or the deck cargo, often set the boat on 
 nre. 
 
 The management of the engines is good, durino- a 
 sudden flood, when immense logs of timber are drifting 
 down the stream ; on the prow of the vessel striking a 
 log, the pilot, from his steering-house above the cabins 
 touches a bell, when the engines are promptly stopped' 
 so that the log is allowed to float quietly under the 
 paddles without doing injury. 
 
 Each cylinder works a paddle separately, so that one 
 paddle can be reversed while the other is going ahead 
 enabling the vessel to be turned with facility. ' 
 
 In some cases a single wheel is placed at the stern of 
 the boat. 
 
 The fares are moderate, and include excellent meals 
 no matter how long the voyage be delayed. No steward's 
 lee IS expected or given. 
 
 The advantages of the electric telegraph have been 
 duly appreciated in America. Telegraphic communica- 
 tion now exists between all the principal towns, and as 
 the expense of sending a message is very moderate, the 
 whole population are in the constant habit of makincr 
 use of it. ° 
 
 The line of wire is not confined to railroads, but is 
 
 i»; :.:| 
 
 .1 
 
 if 
 
< ( 
 
 198 
 
 KECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 also led along high roads, and through the streets of the 
 different towns to the central office. 
 
 On the banks of the large rivers, at every landing- 
 place, there is a telegraph office, so that a passenger can 
 step ashore, and during the few minutes that the steamer 
 stops, send a message to his friends, informing them of 
 his approach some days before he himself can arrive ; 
 this I have seen constantly done. 
 
 Ill some cases there are opposition lines of telegraph. 
 They appear to be cheaply constructed ; the wires sup- 
 ported on rough posts, or on the trees by the road-side. 
 A line of wire crosses the rapids of the St. Lawrence 
 near Montreal, supported on posts fastened to rocks in 
 the bed of the river, and raised so high as not to impede 
 its navigation. 
 
 Saturday, 23d September. — I now bade adieu to my 
 friends in Louisville, and took my passage this morning 
 in a steamer of middle size, called the Rio Grande, for 
 St. Louis, on the Mississippi ; she had some cargo, and 
 many passengers, but did not draw much water. After 
 passing through the canal I have described, we put out 
 into the main stream. 
 
 We found the waters of the Ohio low, as is usual at 
 this season, consequently the navigation difficult. 
 
 Our custom was to lie to for the greater part of the 
 nights, which v/ere generally foggy, from vapour rising 
 from the water ; working our way by day with skilful 
 pilots. 
 
 With all our caution we went aground one afternoon, 
 and with difficulty got afloat again, after great exertion 
 and several hours' delay. 
 
 This is an occurrence they are liable to, and not un- 
 prepared for. 
 
 I took some interest in watching the proceedings ; 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 199 
 
 they first fixed a large beam, sharp at one end, prepared 
 tor the purpose, firmly into the bed of the river in an 
 upright position, on one side of the prow ; rigged a 
 rope to It from the capstan, and in this way tried to 
 ease the vessel oflf, letting on the fall power of the steam 
 trom time to time, to assist. The vessel still resisting' 
 another beam was put out at the other side of the prow' 
 and the capstan brought to bear on both, the effect of 
 which was to raise the fore part of the vessel a little out 
 of the water; but still she held on, when, after much 
 delay, as a last resource an anchor was carried out to 
 some little distance, and the force of the capstan exerted 
 upon It, when, with the assistance of the engines we 
 were at last dragged off" by main force. ' 
 
 This unlucky contretemps being overcome, we pro- 
 ceeded on our way without anv more difficulties 
 ^ I observed on each side of the river large quantities of 
 drift-wood hning its banks, left dry as the stream had 
 receded ; the plan would be to collect this and burn it 
 m heaps, but the wonder is that the Americans have 
 already accomplished so much, not that more remains to 
 be done. 
 
 We had a mixed set of passengers, but all well con- 
 ducted-a young Scot, dressed as a sailor, with a bushy 
 head of red hair, found me out^seating himself beside 
 me in the cabin, without ceremony. I was not how- 
 ever, to be put out of conceit of my countryman, with 
 whom I had much pleasure in conversing ; he worked 
 at some iron mine, got good pay, and was allowing him- 
 self a holiday. Another countryman-who are certainly 
 here as thick as blackberries "-made my acquaintance 
 while leaning over the stern of the vessel, enjoying the 
 fine prospect before me, telling me, in the course of con- 
 versation, that he had run away from home in early life 
 
 Hi 
 
 ^i", 
 
 , p 
 
 li 
 
 
 :. 1 
 
 
 «,n 
 
200 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 i 
 
 i .'. 
 
 
 I" 
 
 i>;!^ 
 
 iiii 
 
 " For what reason ?" " My father was going to thrash 
 me." " For what oifence ?" " I had gone to a ball 
 without his knowledge." For this slight cause he had 
 left his country and his paternal home ; he had some 
 education, good manners, and was respectably dressed. 
 
 At meals we stood up until the ladies, with the gentle- 
 men of their party, were seated ; those who could got a 
 seat at their table ; but, as there was not room for all, a 
 second would be provided — sometimes a third, in suc- 
 cession ; and, after all the others had finished, the black 
 slaves, of whom there were several on board, of both 
 sexes, sat down. I remarked that they eat their dinner 
 with propriety. 
 
 We reached the mouth of the river in the afternoon 
 of Tuesday the 26th September, observing with great 
 interest its junction with the Mississippi, which seemed 
 to continue its course, not sensibly increased by its large 
 tributary. 
 
 ;[ observed, as we neared its mouth, the quality of the 
 trees on its banks to change more than once, to those 
 indicative of a lower level and moister atmosphere ; the 
 last, resembling small poplars, had their stems closely 
 packed. 
 
 We remained a short time at the small town of Cairo, 
 situated at the junction of the two rivers, which gave 
 me time to take farewell of my friends, bound to New 
 Orleans, and to examine the large, elegantly fitted up 
 steamer in which they embarked. 
 
 I observed, in greater numbers than I had been ac- 
 customed to see, storks and other birds feeding in the 
 water. 
 
 Being now in deep water, we steamed up the Missis- 
 sippi, day and night, until we reached St. Louis, early in 
 the morning of Thursday, 28th September. Fare, ten 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 201 
 
 ten 
 
 dollars, which may be considered very moderate when it 
 18 recollected that it included three good meals per diem 
 for five days. ' 
 
 The voyage, though somewhat tedious, I had not 
 tourid unpleasant ; the passengers, although of different 
 grades, were sociable with each other, and with myself 
 as a stranger. 
 
 Many odd questions were put to me which I parried 
 as well as I could ; some I declined to reply to, but, as 
 no offence was meant, I took none. 
 
 Among other amusements an election for the Presi- 
 dent was got up, each signing his name in one of two 
 columns, one for General Taylor, the other for his oppo- 
 nent, General Cass. In my turn I signed for General 
 Taylor. 
 
 The ladies' cabin was next polled, and the result of 
 the whole was reported to be in favour of old rough and 
 ready (a soubriquet applied to General Taylor) bv a 
 large majority. ^ 
 
 I had now beheld the Mississippi, and steamed on its 
 waters. I found it a rapid, turbid, and magnificent 
 river ; yet its first effect was to disappoint me. I had 
 expected to see a broader sheet of water ; whereas 
 where I joined it, and more or less up to St. Louis it 
 seemed to run in a deep but comparatively narrow 
 channel. 
 
 As it is, however, the largest and by far the most im- 
 portant river of the United States-the great western 
 outlet of Its commerce, and as no description of what I 
 saw of It can convey any adequate idea of its extent and 
 grandeur, I shall here insert the following detailed ac- 
 count, extracted from a book I met with at St. Louis :— 
 
 " It takes its rise in a small lake, situated in a recrjon 
 of swamps and wild rice lakes, fifteen hundred feet in 
 
 
 ?;■*'! 
 
 m 
 
 11 
 
202 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 in; 
 
 height above the Gulf of Mexico, near the 48th degree 
 of north latitude ; it flows, in a course from north to 
 south, into the Gulf of Mexico, in the 29th degree of 
 north latitude. 
 
 " It is formed of many small branches, but, before it 
 traverses a great distance, it becomes a broad stream 
 moving in a wide expanse of waters, with a current 
 scarcely perceptible; sometimes through interminable 
 swamps, at others, over a white sand bottom, with its 
 waters transparent, and again it is compressed to a 
 narrow and rapid current, between ancient limestone 
 bluffs. 
 
 "Eleven hundred miles below its source, and 771 
 above St. Louis, are the Falls of St. Anthony. 
 
 " Here the river is about 600 yards wide, and is pre- 
 cipated over a ledge of limestone, seventeen feet high. 
 
 " The scenery round the falls is grand and imposing, 
 and affords a fine treat to visitors. 
 
 " Below this point the river is bounded by limestone 
 bluffs, from 100 to 400 feet high ; its current is broken 
 by the rapids at the mouth of the Kock Kiver, and of the 
 Des Moines, which partially obstruct navigation for a 
 portion of the summer. 
 
 " Below the rapids the river assumes its medial width 
 and character, from that point to the entrance of the 
 Missouri. 
 
 " Where it receives the Missouri it ia a mile and a 
 half wide ; the united streams have Lheiico to the 
 mouth of the Ohio, a medial width of little lu.re than 
 half a mile. This mighty tributary seems rather to 
 diminish than increase its width ; but it perceptibly 
 alters its depth, its mass of waters, and, what is to be 
 rc'^r'^.tted, wholly changes its character. It is no longer 
 tlu; gentle, placid stream, with smooth shores and clean 
 
 ill: 
 
TO THE UNITED STATKS. 
 
 203 
 
 li degree 
 north to 
 legree of 
 
 Defore it 
 stream 
 current 
 minable 
 with its 
 led to a 
 mestone 
 
 tnd 771 
 
 is pre- 
 high. 
 apofiing, 
 
 mestone 
 I broken 
 id of the 
 n for a 
 
 il width 
 ) of the 
 
 ) and a 
 to the 
 re than 
 ither to 
 jeptibly 
 8 to be 
 I longer 
 d clean 
 
 sand-bars ; but a furious and boiling current—a turbid 
 and dangerous mass of sweeping waters, with jagged 
 and dilapidated banks. It remains a sublime object of 
 contemplation— but its character of calm magnificence is 
 seen no more. The surface of the river is covered with 
 huge swells or counter currents, which render it difficult 
 in some places to navigate. 
 
 "In its course, accidental circumstances shift the 
 impetus of its current, and propel it on the point of an 
 island, bend, or sand-bar. In these instances, it tears 
 up the island, removes the sand-bar, and sweeps away 
 the tender alluvial soil of the bend, with all their trees, 
 depositing the spoils in another place. At the season of 
 high waters, nothing is more familiar to the ears of the 
 people on the river, than the deep crash of a landslip, 
 in which larger or smaller masses of the soil on the 
 banks, with all the trees, are plunged into the stream. 
 Such is its character, from the Missouri to the Balize 
 * at its mouth '—a wild, furious, whirling river, never 
 navigated without danger. 
 
 "No person who descends this river for the first time, 
 receives clear and adequate ideas of its grandeur, and 
 the amount of water it conveys. If it be in the spring, 
 when the river below the mouth of the Ohio is generally 
 over its banks, although the sheet of water that is mak- 
 ing its way to the gulf be perhaps thirty miles wide, 
 yet finding its way through deep forests and swamps' 
 that conceal all from the eye, no expanse of water is 
 seen, but the width that is carved out, between the out- 
 line of woods on either bank, which seldom exceeds, and 
 oftener falls short of a mile. But when he sees, in de- 
 scending from the Falls of St. Anthony, that it swallows 
 up one river after another with mouths as wide as itself, 
 without affecting its width at all— when he sees it re- 
 
 t:, \ i 
 
 % *i .J 
 
 "1 .!'| 
 
 't 
 
 iW'f 
 
204 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 u 
 
 I 
 
 ceiving in succession the mighty Missouri, the broad 
 Ohio, the St. Francis, White, Arkansas, and Ked rivers, 
 all of thera of great depth, length, and volume of water 
 — when he sees this mighty river absorbing thera all in 
 its course of upwards of 3000 miles, and retaining a 
 volume water, apparently unchanged, he begins to 
 estimate rightly the increasing depth of current that 
 must roll on in its deep channel to the sea. 
 
 " Carried out of the Balize, and sailing with a good 
 breeze for hours, he sees nothing on any side but the 
 white and turbid waters of the Mississippi long after he 
 is out of sight of land. 
 
 " From the sources of the river to the mouth of the 
 Missouri, the annual flood ordinarily commences in 
 March, and does not subside until the last of May : its 
 medial height is fifteen feet. At the lowest state of the 
 river four feet of watei' may be found, from the rapids 
 of Des Moines to the mouth of the Missouri. Between 
 that point and the mouth of the Ohio, there are six feet 
 in the channel of the shallowest places at low water, and 
 the annual inundation may be estimated at twenty-five 
 feet. Between the mouths of the Ohio and the St. 
 Francis, there are various shoal-places where pilots are 
 often perplexed to find a sufficient depth of water when 
 the river is low. Below that point there is no difficulty 
 for vessels of any drauglit, except to find the right 
 channel. Below the mouth of the Ohio, the medial 
 flood is fifty feet ; the highest sixty. Above Natchez, 
 the flood begins to decline. At Baton Rouge it seldom 
 exceeds thirty feet, and at New Orleans twelve feet. 
 Some have supposed the gradual diminution of the flood 
 to result from the drainage of the numerous effluxes of 
 the river, that convey away such considerable portions 
 of its waters by numerous channels to the sea. To this 
 
\ie broad 
 3d rivers, 
 of water 
 !ra all in 
 ;aining a 
 Degins to 
 'ent that 
 
 li a good 
 
 5 but the 
 
 after he 
 
 ;h of the 
 ences in 
 May : its 
 ite of the 
 le rapids 
 Between 
 e six feet 
 '^ater, and 
 '^enty-five 
 i the St. 
 )ilots are 
 ,ter when 
 difficulty 
 he right 
 e medial 
 Natchez, 
 it seldom 
 }lve feet, 
 the flood 
 Huxes of 
 portions 
 
 xu Liiis 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 205 
 
 should be added, no doubt, the check which the river at 
 this distance begins to feel from the reaction of the sea 
 where this mightymass of descending waters finds its level! 
 _ "It will be easily understood how much the naviga- 
 tion of such a river as this, by steam, must benefit the 
 country through which it flows. 
 
 " In addition to the dangers from the current of the 
 river itself, the steam-boats are exposed to great risks 
 from the number of trees washed from its banks, many 
 of which remain embedded in its channel ; when a por- 
 tion of the branches is seen above water, it is called a 
 sawyer and may be more easily avoided ; when totally 
 out of sight, it is called a snag. If a steamer comes on 
 either of these when at full speed, she is liable to be stove 
 in, when she immediately makes for the nearest bank • if 
 unsuccessful, all on board are in imminent danger- for 
 such is the impetus of the current, that if once sub- 
 merged, a person is rarely seen more. 
 
 " The plan would be to remove these impediments 
 from time to time as much as possible ; and the United 
 btates Government had very laudably voted a sum of 
 money for the purpose, but the complaint was that the 
 Mexican War had interfered to divert it from its object." 
 
 St. Louis is one of the most important and wealthy 
 towns in the western country. 
 
 It is situated on the west bank of the Mississippi 
 18 miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and 174 
 miles above the mouth of the Ohio. 
 
 Like most of the towns of the Union of any note, it is 
 built of brick, and laid out regularly in broad streets- 
 Its population at the time of my visit being about 60 000 
 and it is rapidly increasing. ' ' 
 
 It seems to act as a central depot for New Orleans : 
 
 M 
 
 i. ^' 
 
it 
 
 hi 
 
 206 
 
 R TICOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 I was astonished at the quantity of goods on its quay, 
 the activity going on, and the number of steam-boats 
 moored on its shore. 
 
 The situation of the city for commerce is not surpassed 
 by any other town on the river, if we except New Or- 
 leans. I had taken up my abode at the principal hotel, 
 and here I met again the family with whom I had 
 parted at the Mammoth Cave, and had the pleasure to 
 join their dinner-party in the ladies' saloon. 
 
 Next day (Friday, 29th September) after looking 
 about the town, I embarked, in the evening, on board 
 the Timoleon steamer for Chicago ; although appointed 
 to leave at 5 p.m., we did not unmoor until long after 
 dark, which prevented my seeing the shores of the river 
 as I passed. 
 
 I found myself next morning running along the shores 
 of the Illinois river, a respectable-looking stream, mak- 
 ing its way through a low flat country at a sluggish 
 pace ; the banks as usual fringed with trees, and thickly 
 settled here and there. Our boat drew little water, and 
 there was consequently no fear of running aground, but 
 there was great delay in loading and unloading freight 
 at the different landing-places. We had, as usual, a 
 good 'many passengers, farmers and others belonging to 
 the neighbourhood, with whom I passed part of the 
 evening in a game at cards. Their behaviour was re- 
 spectable and inoffensive, except that questions were 
 asked me, which I parried as well as I could, Did I 
 live in Illinois ? Was I going to settle there ? and such 
 like ; some had farms to sell worth my notice. 
 
 Sunday, October 1st. — We continued our voyage, the 
 character of the river being much the same as before, 
 except that the prairie in places began to be seen — a 
 relief to the eye accustomed to the never-failiig forest. • 
 
its quay, 
 atn-boats 
 
 surpassed 
 New Or- 
 aal hotel, 
 m I had 
 easure to 
 
 ' looking 
 on board 
 ippointed 
 mg after 
 the river 
 
 ;he shores 
 im, mak- 
 
 sluggish 
 d thickly 
 ater, and 
 )und, but 
 g freight 
 
 usual, a 
 DDging to 
 rt of the 
 r was re- 
 ons were 
 d, Did I 
 and such 
 
 yage, the 
 IS before, 
 I seen — a 
 J forest. • 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. OQj 
 
 Monday, October 2d.-Arrived at the mouth of the 
 Chicago Canal, the morning very rainy. We were re- 
 moved after breakfast, with some difficulty, on account 
 ot the mud, into the canal packel^boat. It continued 
 to ram the whole day without intermission, which pre- 
 vented our seeing much of the country through which 
 we parsed ; in other respects we were not uncomfortable 
 being not overcrowded, and having a good cabin to sit 
 in until evening, when the beds were fitted up, and the 
 windows shut, which caused me to pass an uncomfort. 
 able night. 
 
 In this canal boat were several immigrants lately 
 arrived from Germany, mostly agricultural, but of the 
 better class, and well conducted. 
 
 Among them were one or two who had been shop- 
 keepers in the towns, whose trade they said, had been 
 ruined by the uneasy state of affairs consequent on the 
 last revolution in France; this they spoke of with tears 
 in their eyes, representing the distress to be gen-ral 
 bourhood^'''*''''' ■''^ Germany in its immediate neigh- 
 Tuesday, October 3d.-We arrived in the morning at 
 Chicago to which town we were driven some distance 
 in omnibuses, m consequence of some difficulty in the 
 navigation of the Chicago river, at the point where the 
 canal termmates. I went to the Sherman House, the 
 best hotel in the town, much fatigued ; with the deter- 
 mination of resting a day or two to recruit. 
 Fare, per steamer, 5 dollars. 
 Do. by canal boat, 2^ dollars, including board. 
 
 IP 
 
 1 
 
 ii 
 
 
 
 I'i 
 
 I ij 
 
208 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 CHAPTEE XXII. 
 
 I ': 
 
 CHICAGO — ILLINOIS — MICHIGAN — DETROIT — CANADIAN SIDE — 
 
 LAKE ST. CLAIR — RIVER THAMES — CHATHAM — LONDON 
 
 BOOKS — HAMILTON — LECTURES LA KE ONTARIO PRESCOTT 
 
 — CONVERSATION MONTREAL — LEGISLATURE — QUEBEC. 
 
 Chicago, in the State of lUinois, is a rising town on 
 the western bank of Lake Michigan, near the southern 
 termination of the lake. It has a fine though narrow 
 harbour, formed by the Chicago river running into the 
 lake, on both sides of which the town is built, and has a 
 water communication with the Mississippi, by the canal 
 in question joining it with the Illinois river. Its origin 
 is but of yesterday. Its population in 1847, neverthe- 
 less, amounted to 16,000, and is increasing fast. The 
 hotels are numerous and well conducted, and the whole 
 town has an aspect of prosperity. 
 
 Lake Michigan is second only to Lakes Superior and 
 Huron of the five great lakes ; it is 330 miles long, 60 
 miles broad on an average, and estimated to be 900 feet 
 deep ; its waters are pure and clear, and are said to 
 abound in excellent fish. 
 
 Illinois differs from Kentucky, Ohio, and other wes- 
 tern States, in being almost entirely devoid of trees; 
 the country adjacent to Chicago is a dead level, covered 
 with a thick grass, and has the appearance of a bound- 
 less sea, — not a tree is to be seen, with the exception of 
 
iN SIDE — 
 LONDON — 
 -PRESCOTT 
 EBEC. 
 
 town on 
 southern 
 1 narrow 
 into the 
 md has a 
 the canal. 
 [ts origin 
 aeverthe- 
 ist. The 
 hie whole 
 
 erior and 
 long, 60 
 900 feet 
 
 ! said to 
 
 ther wes- 
 of trees; 
 , covered 
 a bound- 
 eption of 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 209 
 
 a few in the immediate vicinity of the town. Towards 
 the interior of the State, a few clumps of trees thinly 
 scattered may be seen here and there ; but with the ex 
 ception of these, and a narrow fringe cu the mar<?in of 
 a few small streams, there is little wood. This is felt to 
 be a great inconvenience by the farmers, who are at a 
 loss for timber for fences and farm-buildings, but it is 
 no doubt amply compensated by the very fertile quality 
 of the land, and its being, as it were, already cleared to 
 their hand, by which a great amount of labour and 
 delay is saved. 
 
 Towards the Mississippi the country begins to undulate 
 or become what is technically called a rollin- prairie' 
 the valleys thus formed being generally marshy-rife 
 promoters of fever and ague, while the flat grounds near 
 thicago are found to be much healthier. 
 
 A railway is now in progress from Chicago to Galena 
 on the Mississippi, and Illinois must become in time an 
 important state of the Union. 
 
 Wednesday, October 4th.--I looked about the town 
 m the course of which I had the curiosity to i)rice the 
 markets --best pieces of roasting beef, four cents, le 
 -t . per lb. ; chickens, twenty cents, i.e., lOd. per i>air • 
 otiier meat and poultry in proportion. ' 
 
 At dinner, a young American miUtmre was my next 
 neighbour. He gave me a sad picture of the demora- 
 lized state of all classes in the town of Mexico where he 
 had been with the army. He proposed the theatre for 
 t^ie evening, where we saw an Irish star act one of Mr 
 Power's best characters, ^^ The Irishman in NuDles -' 
 tolerably well. ^ ' 
 
 Next day I recognised the party in question, sitting 
 near me at dinner, a respectable-looking young man 
 In thQ evening I went into the Courthouse, where a 
 
 o 
 
 ^ 
 
 Hs 
 
 i 
 
it. 
 
 1 
 
 li 
 
 i( ' 
 
 210 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 meeting of some of the inhabitants was held for reform 
 objects ; free-trade, abolition of slavery, a bill to pre- 
 vent the mortgage of farms without consent of the wife, 
 and sundry other topics were discussed, growing tired of 
 which I returned to ray hotel, and so to bed. 
 
 The bill sought, to prevent the mortgage of farms 
 without the consent of the wife, is better known as the 
 free-soil agitation, very general throughout the Union. 
 
 The farmers are apt to run in debt at the stores ; 
 fine dresses for the wife are exhibited to them, supplies 
 for the family had, with much spirits, probably, con- 
 sumed by the farmer himself, — in all which it is alleged 
 they are encouraged by the store-keepers, until a large 
 score is run up, and the farm pounced upon in virtue 
 of some paper signed by the farmer in an unguarded 
 moment. 
 
 The bill sought for, is to prevent the soil being held 
 applicable to such a debt, and, if conceded, might pre- 
 vent much misery ; but I am not lawyer enough to 
 venture to give an opinion upon the question. 
 
 Friday, October 6th. — I received a long-expected 
 letter from England, which had followed me from the 
 Virginia springs ; passed part of the morning in the 
 reading-room, and the remainder in looking about the 
 town. I then embarked on the lake for the State of 
 Michigan, at eight o'clock on a fine moonlight night, in 
 a good steamboat, reaching the opposite side at half- 
 past twelve, where, after the delay of upwards of an 
 hour, we were put into stages for Niles, an inland town, 
 to which the railroad in course of construction from 
 Detroit to the point of embarkation for Chicago, was 
 only as yet in working condition. 
 
 We reached Niles, a small town, next day, just a 
 quarter of an hour too late for the train, a trick of the 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 211 
 
 )r reform 
 
 I to pre- 
 
 the wife, 
 
 g tired of 
 
 of farms 
 wn as the 
 Union, 
 le stores ; 
 , supplies 
 tbly, con- 
 is alleged 
 il a large 
 in virtue 
 nguarded 
 
 eing held 
 light pre- 
 nough to 
 
 -expected 
 from the 
 ig in the 
 ibout the 
 ) State of 
 night, in 
 i at half- 
 [•ds of an 
 md town. 
 
 ion 
 
 cago, 
 
 from 
 was 
 
 ly, just a 
 ick of the 
 
 drivers, as we suspected, in collusion with the hotel- 
 keepers of Niles, as there could have been no difficulty 
 in arriving in time. As for myself, the delay was of 
 
 (little consequence ; not so, however, with the majority 
 of the passengers, who were tied to time, and, like my- 
 self, had paid their passage the whole way to Detroit, 
 on the express understanding that we were to meet the 
 train. The difficulty was increased by their being no 
 train on Sunday, a fact of which the stage people must 
 have been well aware ; the conclusion was that we were 
 detained for two days, with very indifferent accommoda- 
 tion, at a charge equal to the first hotel in Chicago. 
 
 We had passed the Kalamazoo river, the scene of Mr 
 Cooper's novel of the « Oak Openings," and as such, I 
 beheld it with interest. We occasionally came to the 
 openings in question, where I observed the farmer gene- 
 rally placed his house amidst a clump of trees, in con- 
 tradistinction to his inveterate habit of denuding his 
 dwelling of every one, when he settles in the forest. I 
 learned here that in the construction of their railroad, 
 they had at first determined to employ Germans, but 
 had been compeUed to turn them off for Irish • none 
 they said, could dig Hke Paddy. ' ' 
 
 Sunday, October 8th.— Attended the Episcopal church 
 where I heard but an indifferent sermon. In the evening 
 I looked about the town, which wore an appearance of 
 quiet comfort; some of the houses, I observed, were 
 built of bricks, made of large blocks of clay di-ied in the 
 sun, and whitewashed. The dry climate, it appears 
 admits of this. Outside the town were fine crops of 
 Indian corn, cut down and stacked in small heaps 
 resting on each other. A pig had broken through a 
 tence, and was busily engaged in devouring the cobs. 
 Monday, 9th.— I entered the railway train at nine 
 
 
 %m 
 
[ il 
 
 
 i : 
 
 w 
 
 212 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OP A VISIT 
 
 II 
 
 A.M., taking up many passengers as we proceeded, passed 
 throii<^h a country generally level and thinly peopled, 
 arrived at Detroit about eight in the evening, and, after 
 a refreshing meal, to bed — the bedroom not very good, 
 and at the top of the house, having declined a double- 
 bedded room below, with a companion, an alternative to 
 which I have a great objection. Faro, including the 
 friteamer, five dollars. 
 
 On consulting the map, it will be seen that the State 
 of Michigan is in the form of a peninsula, bounded by 
 three of the great lakes, and one of smaller dimension.", 
 viz., by Lake Michigan on the west, Lakes Huron, St. 
 Clair, and Erie on the east. These lakes form only one 
 mass of waters, communicating with each other by straits, 
 navigable for large vessels. It will be observed that in 
 my journey from Chicago I took the chord of the arc, 
 but there are line large steamers that ply from one town 
 to th.e other, making the circuit of the lakes, I think, 
 in two days; this is, no doubt, the best route for a 
 Btranger during the height of the season, as it includes a 
 great extent of lake navigation, with a variety of scenery 
 on their shores, some portions of which are still inhabited 
 by aboriginal tribes of Indians in their wild state. 
 
 I was now on the confines of Canada, in sight of the 
 British dominions—a welcome state of things to me, 
 after rav somewhat lengthened absence. 
 
 Next morning I awoke early, and beheld from my 
 bed the Canada shore ; its village of Windsor, and the 
 country round it, looking lovely in the morning sun. 
 
 After breakfast I crossed by the steamboat feriy, when 
 the illusion vanished ; I found the village, which looked 
 so well at a distance, poor and neglected, the fences in 
 bad order, the houses dilapidated, the horses and waggons 
 a shabbv turn-out. 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 21.1 
 
 ed, passed 
 y peopled, 
 and, after 
 very good, 
 a double- 
 jrnative to 
 uding the 
 
 ; the State 
 )unded by 
 imensions, 
 luron, St. 
 1 only one 
 by straits, 
 ed that in 
 f the arc, 
 one town 
 8, 1 think, 
 )ute for a 
 inchides a 
 of scenery 
 inhabited 
 ate. 
 
 ght of the 
 gs to me, 
 
 from my 
 *, and the 
 g sun. 
 3ny, when 
 ich looked 
 
 fences in 
 li waggons 
 
 As I walked on, however, things seemed to improve a 
 little, until I came to a handsome new brick church in 
 course of erection, the old one of wood being turned 
 
 I ! M \^^',^'t^^l'' ^" ^ntc^ng which I found a clue pro- 
 
 I hably to all I saw-the village in <piestiou was peopled 
 
 by Canadian French, whose new Catholic church I now 
 entered ; it was large, and in progress of building on a 
 substantial scale, the only symptom of in^provement 
 that appeared. 
 
 ^ The land itself i. evidently very fertile ; a rich allu- 
 vial deposit of the lake in former times, elevated above 
 Its present banks about twenty or thirty feet, and from 
 thence a dead level as far as the eye could reach. One 
 solitary sloop lying at anchor; what a contrast to the 
 other side ! Detroit, with its numerous wharves, steam- 
 boats, and saihng vessels in abundance, with every other 
 symptom of industry and intelligence ; its shores lined 
 mth handsome villas ; the river, or rather strait run- 
 ning between both shores, a distance of about half a 
 mile, m a deep and equable current of about three miles 
 an hour, beautiful to look at, and offering every facilitv 
 tor navigation. 
 
 I had some conversation with the custom-house officer 
 . t^ie Canadian side, whom I found on board the ferry- 
 oat on my return to Detroit, who offered to sell me a 
 arm of four hundred acres, partly cleared, at the rate of 
 six dollars per acre. I afterwards had a warm bath at 
 a barbers shop, and then to dinner at my hotel 
 
 III the evening I walked about the town, which I was 
 disposed to like, from its clean appearance and healthv 
 situation. 
 
 It is the capital of the State of Michigan, is advan- 
 tageously situated on the west side of the river Detroit 
 (as the strait connecting the lakes is called ) on ..round 
 
 m 
 
 1 1 
 
 • (i 
 
 14 
 
 *ii 
 
 IL 
 
 t1 
 
 
 i' f\ 
 
f 
 
 '<i 
 
 >! 
 
 214 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 elevated thirly feet above its surface, seven miles below 
 the outlet of Lake St. Clair, and eighteen above the 
 western extremity of Lake Erie, Its population at the 
 time of my visit was about 9192. The houses are mostly 
 of wood, though many are built of brick, in a neat and 
 sometimes elegant manner. 
 
 The town is laid out at right angles, and possesses 
 some handsome public buildings, churches, and literaiy 
 institutions. It is supplied with water raised by steam- 
 power from the strait, and distributed in pij)es. 
 
 It was first settled by the French in 1G83, came into 
 our hands in 17G0, and into the jwssession of the United 
 States by treaty in 1784 ; so rapidly did the independ- 
 ence of our colonies follow its cession by the French. 
 
 It is well situated for trade, and has already become 
 a considerable commercial emporium. The navigation 
 of the river and lake is open about eight months in the 
 year. 
 
 Lake St. Clair, the smallest of the chain, is twenty- 
 four miles long, thirty wide, ninety in circumference, 
 and about twenty feet deep. It receives the waters of 
 several rivers, one of which, the St. Clair, connects it 
 with Lake Huron, as the Detroit does with Lake Erie. 
 
 Thursday, October 12th. — Having now gratified my 
 curiosity with Detroit and its neighbourhood, on both 
 sides of the strait, I embarked after dinner on board a 
 steamer for Chatham, on the river Thames in Canada, 
 about three o'clock p.m. 
 
 I enjoyed the view on both sides, as we steamed into 
 Lake St. Clair, on a fine autumnal evening. It grew 
 dark as we entered the Thames river, but the moon rose 
 in full splendour, by which we could see that the 
 entrance on both sides, and for some miles up, was low, 
 marshy, and bare of trees, until we reached Chatham, 
 
TO THE UNITED BTATE8. 
 
 aift 
 
 iles below 
 ibove the 
 ion at the 
 ire mostly 
 neat and 
 
 possesses 
 d literaiy 
 by steam- 
 came into 
 he United 
 iiidepend- 
 rench. 
 iy become 
 lavigation 
 ths in the 
 
 is twenty- 
 imference, 
 I waters of 
 onnects it 
 ike Erie, 
 itified my 
 1, on both 
 n board a 
 1 Canada, 
 
 amed into 
 It grew 
 moon rose 
 that the 
 t, was low, 
 Chatham, 
 
 where the country improves and is covered with timbei- 
 about nine o'clock. Fare, one dollar and a half ' 
 
 Mem.—In Canada, an English sliiUing is equal to a 
 quarter dollar, a dollar being 58. currency ; a shilling 
 is therefore received as 15d. cunency. The hotel at 
 Chatham proved to be but indifrcreiit ; not being able 
 to find a bedroom in it to my mind, I resolved to con- 
 tinue my route on to London, very appropriately situ- 
 ated on the river Thames, seventy-five miles distant, in 
 the royal mail sLage. 
 
 The stage in question, notwithstanding its grandilo- 
 quent name, was little better than a common waggon 
 of the country, covered .n with oil-cloth, but without 
 springs as far as I could see ; and away we went at the 
 hazard of our necks on the most execiaUe road imagin- 
 able ; we were shaken and bumped the whole way in'the 
 most cruel manner, until within six miles of our jour- 
 ney's end, when we came to a good turnpike road made 
 after the most approved mode in +his country, i.e., deal 
 boards placed across the middle of the road one after the 
 other, as the flooring of a room, each securely nailed 
 down to transverse logs, the whole sprinkled over with 
 a little road grit, or small gravel. 
 
 My fellow-passengers consisted of a young officer be- 
 longing to the garrison of Halifax ; a father, daughter, 
 and son-in-law, Highland immigrants, and one ov two 
 others, from whose uproarious mirth I concluded they 
 found no reason to regret the old country. 
 
 These left us, however, from time to time as the day 
 dawned on reaching their several locations, which seemed 
 to be in a pleasant and fertile country skirting the road. 
 ^ We also passed several locations of Indians, so far 
 civilized as tc live in houses, and cultivate their farms, on 
 whose homesteads I observed nuuierous turkeys roosting. 
 
 .■■♦ !J 
 
 hi 
 
 if II 
 
 El 
 
iJlfi 
 
 RECOLLKCTIONB OF A VISIT 
 
 Wo 
 
 M 
 
 We pulled up at a doccnt house by the road.side to 
 t'hiitigo horacfl. 
 
 Our party beings reduced to three, viz., the officer 
 in question, who had accompanied mo from Detroit, and 
 whom I found to bo intelh'gent and well informed, my- 
 self, and another ; a very plentiful early breakfast of 
 tea, coft'ee, ham and efj^s, &c., was provided for us, at 
 the moderate charge of ir)d. currency, i.e. Is. each. 
 
 In due time we reached London, where the stage 
 drove us to a very good hotel, where I was glad to rest 
 from my fatigues.— Fare, three dollars, fifty cents. (14s.) 
 I had been presented at the springs with three books, 
 as companions of my journey— Mr. Washington Irving's 
 "Sketch-book," Mr. Cooper's last novel called "Oak 
 ()l>enings,''' and the "Peasant and his Landlord"— a 
 Swedish story, purporting to be written by the Baroness 
 Knoring, and translated by Mary Howitt. 
 
 Mr. Washington Irving is a favourite author, and 
 deservedly popular in England ; I had much pleasure in 
 renewing my acquaintance with him. 
 
 Mr. Cooper's work is not inferior to his former novels, 
 all bespeaking great abilities ; he has the merit of origin- 
 ality ; he does justice to the rude virtues of the pro- 
 scribed race, while he depicts their manners and habits 
 truly. A gentleman and a man of letters ought, above 
 all others, to be a citizen of the world ; it is to be la- 
 mented that he has expressed in his writings a degree 
 of hatred to, and prejudice against, the mother country, 
 which ought to be only looked for among the lowest and 
 most ignorant of his countrymen, and which, perhaps, 
 in the present day would not be found there. 
 
 The Baroness's work bespeaks the European fame of 
 our great countryman Sir Walter Scott ; she copies him 
 closely in the mechanical structure and details of her 
 
itlside to 
 
 10 officer 
 roit, and 
 [led, my- 
 ikftist of 
 or us, at 
 tch. 
 
 ho stage 
 d to rest 
 
 ts. (148.) 
 
 )e books, 
 Irviiig's 
 d "Oak 
 [ord"--a 
 iaroness 
 
 lor, and 
 asiire in 
 
 ' novels, 
 P origin- 
 he pro- 
 l habits 
 t, above 
 ► be la- 
 degree 
 !ountry, 
 est and 
 >erhaps, 
 
 fame of 
 
 ies him 
 
 of her 
 
 TO THE DNITKD STATFIR, 217 
 
 Htory, while, unUko him, she exalts her peasant into a 
 hero and then makes him murder his landlord in cold 
 blood, m reference to an old grudge, on accidentally 
 n.oeting h,m in a wood. There is likewise a plutonic 
 love-story between her hero and his wife's ister, not very 
 probable or creditable to either. He entls by surrender- 
 ing himself to the executioner. 
 
 London is a thriving little town of a pleasant aspect • 
 It owes Its origin to its having been an out-station for a 
 detachment of our troops during the last American war 
 It 18 situated on a fertile plain, sufficiently elevated 
 above the bed of the river ; the ground in its immediate 
 neighbourhood a good deal cleared, with some neat- 
 looking villas and cottages interspersed. 
 
 I met with much civility here from a widow lady and 
 her family, whose connexions I happened to know in the 
 old country ; accompanying them to their pew in the 
 Episcopal Church on Sunday the 15th, where I heard a 
 very good sermon. 
 
 This family had experienced some vicissitudes in their 
 new home, much of which might have been avoided if 
 the husband, who had been accustomed to a town life 
 m England, had known the best way to go to work 
 which would have been to have purchased a farm partly 
 c eared, for a few hundred pounds in a neighbourhood • 
 already settled, where the numerous wants of a young 
 family would have been within reach. 
 
 Instead of this he had the imprudence to enter the 
 bush, as it is called, where he purchased a large allot- 
 ment of wild land in the attempt to clear which he 
 found himself without neighbours, without roads with- 
 out regular supplies of provisions, out of reach perhaps 
 of medical advice, expending a large capital for labour • 
 the sufferings and privation of a young, genteel family 
 
 fa 
 
 :m. '•m 
 
 Pf J 
 
 
218 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 Hii 
 
 from England, under such circumstances, may be better 
 imagined than described. Yet they might have been easily 
 avoided and at less cost, as an expenditure of £7 per acre 
 is considered to be necessary to bring such land into good 
 working condition in the hands of a gentleman settler. 
 
 It is, however, an error very generally fallen into blind- 
 fold, and is the cause of much subsequent misery and priva- 
 tion ; the difference of price being probably the temptation. 
 
 Tuesday, 17th October. — I bade adieu to my friends, 
 and took the mail for Hamilton, (the road being boarded 
 all the way, as I have described, and in excellent condi- 
 tion,) which town I reached next morning at three 
 o'clock. — Fare, four dollars and a quarter. 
 
 Hamilton is an important and thriving town, the 
 market of the surrounding country far and near. Situ- 
 ated at the extreme western point of Lake Ontario, 
 within a mile of which, as far as I could judge, the lake 
 has thrown a complete bank across its whole length, 
 leaving a deep, capacious, and secure harbour ; through 
 the middle of this bank, a cut having been made, secured 
 by solid mason-work, to admit the ingress and egress of 
 its commerce. 
 
 The character of the country, as of the whole western 
 region, is level, yet here there are indications of volcanic 
 agency ; one level plateau being raised above another, 
 the effect of which is good as they appear well cultivated ; 
 the settlers' houses being judiciously placed and embo- 
 somed in trees. 
 
 To the right as I entered it, the country seems to have 
 been upheaved, leaving a sloping debris towards the 
 town, at the upper extremity of which there is rather a 
 steep ascent to the top of the plateau, which in its turn 
 has a gentle declivity towards the other side. 
 
 Of the slope to which I allude the wealthier inhAbi- 
 
be better 
 een easily 
 7 per acre 
 into good 
 I settler, 
 ato blind- 
 md priva- 
 mptation. 
 y friends, 
 ^ boarded 
 nt condi- 
 at three 
 
 :own, the 
 ir. Situ- 
 Ontario, 
 , the lake 
 le length, 
 ; through 
 e, secured 
 . egress of 
 
 ie western 
 f volcanic 
 ) another, 
 iltivated ; 
 [id embo- 
 
 is to have 
 i^ards the 
 i rather a 
 n its turn 
 
 ir inliAbi- 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 219 
 
 
 tants have availed themselves to erect villas, enclosed in 
 gardens, which has a pleasing effect. 
 
 To counteract this, at another extremity of the town 
 a small river flows at a sluggish pace into the lake, leav- 
 ing a marshy alluvium on its banks, which is said to 
 engender fever ; this might be easily avoided by running 
 a dam across its mouth, the banks being sufficiently steep! 
 Wednesday, October 18.— In the evening I attended 
 a lecture, given gratis in the Town Hall, by a citizen of 
 the United States, on the truth of the Christian religion : 
 he delivered it forcibly and with good effect. Next 
 evening I attended another by the same gentleman, on 
 the immortality of the soul, in which he quoted 'the 
 words of Socrates to his judges on his condemnation. 
 
 This gentleman happened to be residing at my hotel, 
 and I had some conversation with him on the subject 
 of his lectures, in the course of which he expressed him- 
 self to be apprehensive of the machinations of the Pope 
 and the Jesuits. " Do you think they have the power 
 to destroy the improved printing-press ?" " Certainly 
 not.'' " Then, until they can do that," I suggested, 
 '•' you may safely dismiss your fears." 
 
 Next morning I walked on the heights I have men- 
 tioned,^ by which I commanded a very good view of the 
 town, its immediate neighbourhood, and of the lake. 
 Afterwards I found out a very good reading-room, where 
 I spent the evening much to my satisfaction in reading 
 the news from Europe. 
 
 Next day I walked to Sir Allan M'Nab's house, in the 
 immediate neighbourhood of the town, and was shown 
 his grounds, and kitchen and fruit gardens by his gar- 
 dener, a native of Perthshire in Scotland— an intelligent 
 man, who had been out, as he said, fourteen years, lind 
 was satisfied with his new country. 
 
 
hi 
 
 220 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 i'l 
 
 ■i 1 
 
 I spent the evening at the news-room in reading the 
 newspapers and periodicals from Europe. I was pleased 
 in particular with a weekly paper called the Economist, 
 treating on monetary affairs, the currency, markets, 
 weekly news, and publications, as they bear on the poli- 
 tical economy of the empire. I learned from it how 
 vast has been the increase of the larger farms, as com- 
 pared with the smaller in Ireland, from 1841 to 1848 ; 
 this, in my opinion, is the legitimate result of the poor- 
 law, and indicative of a better state of things in that 
 distracted country. The landlords, now that they are 
 compelled to give food to their poor tenantry, are, pro- 
 bably from necessity, consolidating their farms ; and if 
 it be done with humanity to existing interests, accom- 
 panied by the emigration on a large scale now going on, 
 much good will be effected. 
 
 Sunday, October 22.— I attended the Episcopal Church 
 morning service, remarking that the officiating clergy- 
 man preached in his surplice ; on inquiry, it was said to 
 be by order of the bishop. I remarked of this town, as 
 generally throughout Upper Canada, that the principal 
 settlers are from Scotland. 
 
 Monday, October 23. — I took my departure for King- 
 ston at the other extremity of the lake, a distance of 
 about 190 miles, in a new iron steamer (the Magnet), 
 calling at Toronto and other intermediate ports. 
 
 As we steamed out into the blue waters of the lake on 
 a fine morning, I had an opportunity of examining more 
 closely the bank I have described, — it forms an excel- 
 lent breakwater to the harbour, and cuts the lake (here 
 of no great width) across at a right angle in so straight 
 a line, that it might be very well taken for a work of 
 art. The cut through it is of sufficient width, and of 
 good workmanship. A bank of this description is of 
 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 221 
 
 common occurrence on the lake, and appears to have 
 been the result of an under current or reflux of its 
 waters, after striking the shore in stormy times, until 
 met and neutralized by the advancing surge. Their 
 bemg now uncovered, would seem to indicate that the 
 waters of the lake had found a lower level. 
 
 We reached Toronto about eleven o'clock, where we 
 remamed two hours, which gave me an opportunity to 
 walk about the town, and renew ray acquaintance with 
 It : It bore a second inspection, I thought, very well 
 
 On resuming our voyage the day continued fine, and 
 the lake calm. We made short stops at intermediate 
 ports, not admitting of time, however, to go on shore- 
 when we finally reached Kingston next morning at seven 
 o clock, where I sought out my former hotel. Fare five 
 dollars, three meals inclusive. ' 
 
 I left Kingston about one o'clock the next day in 
 the steamer that touched here from the American side 
 for Ogdensburg. I slept on board the steamer, and was 
 otherwise comfortable. Is^ext morning we reached Qo-- 
 densburg at an early hour, when I crossed by the ferry 
 to Prescott on the British side, taking up my abode in 
 the Exchange Hotel-an indifferent house, but the best 
 m the place.— Fare, 8s. sterling. 
 
 I here spent the day with a family from England, who 
 had, in the first instance, experienced some of the pri- 
 vation^ of the wilderness. At present the gentleman 
 being on the half-pay list of the army, and holding some 
 appointment connected with the garrison-work.^ here 
 they were residing in a very pretty cottage, commanding 
 a fine view of the river, and its opposite bank. 
 
 I slept at the Exchange Hotel, and next mornin- 
 took n,y departure for Montreal by the English boat-a 
 fine ve,,,el, ,vhere I met with some pleasant people • 
 
 1^.] 
 
 :'f ^ 
 
n 
 
 222 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 b* 
 
 ' {I 
 
 m 
 
 Ijii 
 
 among others an Irish gentleman, belonging to the mili- 
 tary, highly Conservative. The news from England was, 
 that Mr. Smith O'Brien had been caught, and he was 
 for making short work with him. 
 
 After dinner, free-trade was the subject discussed by 
 the English gentlemen present, which did not seem 
 popular with them ; they seemed to me to view it more 
 according to their own political or party bias, than ac- 
 cording to the merits of the question per se. All joined 
 in condemning the then recent attempt of the Whig 
 Government to increase the income-tax to 5 per cent. 
 An American gentleman took up the argument by ob- 
 serving, that their form of government had been found 
 fault with by distinguished English travellers, but that 
 it worked well, in so far as they flourished under it, and 
 had twice paid off" the public debt of the general govern- 
 ment, contracted in times of difficulty. That the wide 
 basis of the franchise prevented corruption in the elec- 
 tors, while the control retained over them by their con- 
 stituents, tended to keep the representatives honest — to 
 make, in fact, a representative government, consistent 
 with economy in the management of public affairs. In 
 answer to this, the repudiating States were very pro- 
 perly brought up, as the result of the extreme democratic 
 element in their constitution, and the malign influence 
 which it must have on the influx of capital into their 
 country pointed out. 
 
 I slept comfortably on board, and reached Lachine the 
 next day (October 27) ; and then Montreal from Lachine 
 by railroad, where I took up my old quarters in Done- 
 gana's Hotel. — Fare, 16s. 6d. sterling. 
 
 Montreal I have already described, and have now very 
 little to say that is new in regard to it. I renewed my 
 acquaintance with my friends, who received me kindly. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 223 
 
 the mili- 
 and was, 
 i he was 
 
 jssed by 
 lot seem 
 ' it more 
 than ac- 
 11 joined 
 e Whig 
 )er cent, 
 t by ob- 
 in found 
 but that 
 r it, and 
 govern- 
 the wide 
 the elec- 
 leir con- 
 nest — to 
 Dnsistent 
 lirs. In 
 ery pro- 
 mocratic 
 nfluence 
 ato their 
 
 ihine the 
 Lachine 
 n Done- 
 
 low very 
 wed my 
 kindly. 
 
 Our hotel was full of company ; among whom were 
 many members of the legislature, now about to meet • 
 the acts of which have since caused so much dissension 
 m the provmce, accompanied by riots in the town 
 
 How for the acts of the Assembly have gone to retard 
 or advance the separation of these fine provinces from the 
 mother country, is a question as yet hid in the womb of 
 time. 
 
 There is no doubt they have gone far to alienate the 
 higher classes of British settlers, who were attached to 
 the mother country in the strongest sense, of which 
 they guvu proof in the Canadian Rebellion, as they did 
 in the frontier war with the United States in 1813-14 
 
 The French settlers keep aloof from the Encrlish in- 
 termarry among themselves, do not amalgamate with 
 and cannot be expected to have much sympathy with 
 their rulers ; they now, however, form the smaller sec- 
 tion of the colonists, and could not have commanded 
 the majority they did in the Assembly, but for the junc- 
 tion ol the radical portion of the British and Irish 
 settlers. Having granted these provinces self-govern- 
 ment, it would have been difficult for the Governor- 
 general piobably to act otherwise than he did never- 
 theless the result is to be lamented. ' 
 
 It is certain that these dissensions have given cause of 
 satisf^xction to many in the United States, who have 
 drawn their connexion with these provinces closer in 
 consequence, and who now openly acknowledge that 
 their former policy was wrong in making war upon 
 them, as they must eventually, they say now, under any 
 circumstances, be theirs. 
 
 I observed that the English portion of the party at 
 our hotel, were more reserved to each other than I had 
 been accustomed to in the United States, while we sat 
 
 i 
 
224 
 
 IIECOLLBCTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 longer at table over our wine, sitting down to dinner at 
 six ; a cup of tea or coffee followed at eight. 
 
 I was very glad to rest here some little time from my 
 fatigues. At last the winter gave sundry indications of 
 its approach — snow had fallen, and I had not yet seen 
 Quebec. My intention was, if possible, to go direct 
 from thence to Nova S'^otia, through New Brunswick ; 
 at all events I was rest see it. 
 
 November 15. — On ti> afternoon of this day, 1 ac- 
 cordingly embarked on board the steamer, which plies 
 down the river to Quebec. 
 
 The vessel was large and tolerably comfortable, but 
 much iiime was lost, after the hour fixed for departure, 
 in taking on board barrels of flour and other goods ; con- 
 sequently it soon became too dark to see much of the 
 river. I met, however, with pleasant society on board ; 
 in particular, a military gentleman, stationed about half- 
 way down the river, where he left us towards nightfall. 
 
 Next morning we reached Quebec — a curious-looking, 
 old-fashioned town, built partly on the shore of the 
 river, partly on the slope of a rather abrupt and steep 
 hill, and partly on the level above. The ground already 
 covered with frost and snow. I was driven in a sleigh 
 to the best hotel in the town, which, without any pre- 
 tensions to the grandeur of th one I had left, I never- 
 theless found to be sufficiently comfortable for my wants. 
 Fare, 10s. 4d. sterling. 
 
 I was much struck with the French aspect of the 
 town, of the party at dinner, and of everything roimd 
 me, with exception of a company of Americans forming 
 an Ethiopian band, i.e., for singing negro songs, as their 
 bills announced. The master of the band and his wife 
 seemed respectable and unobtrusive, as also the young 
 men, four in number, mostly from New York. 
 
 
dinner at 
 
 from my 
 nations of 
 , yet seen 
 50 direct 
 unswick ; 
 
 ac- 
 
 ly, 1 
 
 lich plies 
 
 j,ble, but 
 eparture, 
 )ds ; con- 
 ih of the 
 1 board ; 
 )out half- 
 ightfall. 
 -looking, 
 'e of the 
 md steep 
 1 already 
 1 a sleigh 
 any pre- 
 I never- 
 ly wants. 
 
 t of the 
 g round 
 
 forming 
 , as their 
 
 his wife 
 
 e young 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 225 
 
 I here also recognised a negro waiter, whom I had 
 known in the same capacity at Donegana's Hotel, when 
 there with my daughters ; he seemed much pleased to 
 see me making many inquiries after his young friends 
 He did not seem pleased with the AmeiLnKfor 
 showing up his race ; he was a respectable, well-con- 
 ducted man-a runaway slave probably; he had a 
 grateful recollection of my daughters, for the kindness 
 they had shown him; coming forward to meet me his 
 eyes beaming with joy. 
 
 Next day I hired a sleigh, and drove through the town 
 to the elevated plateau, forming the heights of Abraham. 
 As I entered the open ground of the plateau, I observed 
 the monument very appropriately erected, « To the im- 
 mortal memory of Wolfe and Montcalm," for both the 
 adverse geiierab fell It consists of a neat pillar, abou 
 sixty-five feet high. A little farther on I came to a 
 more humble monument, somewhat defaced, indicating 
 the spot where General Wolfe fell. ^ 
 
 I then entered the citadel, garrisoned by a Highland 
 regiment-the 78th, I Uiink. After duly examining 
 my credentials, I was admitted ; a soldier on duty being 
 appointed my cicerone. ^ 
 
 plateau, 350 feet above the river; it immediately over- 
 looks the town, and river generally full of shipping but 
 ^ow reduced to a few vessels, from the lateness of the 
 «eason. It commands both, and is constructed on the 
 moLt approved principles. 
 
 I had here a fine view of the countiy all round-it 
 was clad m its winter garb of frost and snow ; the trees 
 seemed .0 be of pine fir ; and it had altogether, I 
 thought, a very northern aspect ; nevertheless there was 
 
 ■ " '1; 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 v; , 
 
 MM 
 
 ''f1 
 
 •'f Iff 
 
 great variety of hill and dale— the hill 
 
 iS rising in soma 
 
 (i 
 
220 
 
 KECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 places into mountains, with sheltered valleys between, 
 enclosing comfortable-looking hamlets. The noble river 
 spread out below the town, is hero three miles broad, 
 although 350 miles from its mouth, contracting to a 
 mile just abreast of the citadel. 
 
 The town is surrounded by w^alls, and strongly forti- 
 fied in every part ; its population may be about 35,000 ; 
 it is built of stone, the roofs of the upper town being 
 covered with tin ; it occupies the extremity of a high 
 peninsular ridge, formed by the junction of the Charles 
 river with the St. Lawrence, called Cape Diamond ; it 
 is consequently approachable only on one side, and there- 
 fore very strong ; not unaptly styled the Gibraltar of 
 America. 
 
 It has continued more a French town than Montreal. 
 French is the general language spoken, and the Roman 
 Catholic religion prevails ; there being a Cathedral and 
 four other Catholic churches ; an Ursuline Nunnery — 
 the Nuns being chiefly occupied in educating young 
 females, and are said to be very rigid and retired. There 
 is also an ancient Monastery of the Jesuits, now con- 
 verted into barracks for the troops ; and several other 
 public buildings, meriting notice, of which I made a 
 hasty inspection. 
 
 There are also several objects of curiosity in the im- 
 mediate neighbourhood of the town, such as the Falls of 
 Montmorenci, the Falls of the Chaudiere, &c., which I 
 regret to say, the lateness of the season did not permit 
 me to see. 
 
 On my return to my hotel to dinner, I found the 
 party increased by a young Halifax merchant, whom I 
 had left behind at Donegana's, and who had now come 
 down to expedite the departure of a vessel : the Gulf of 
 St. Lawrence becoming dangerous as the season adv£(nces. 
 
 
between, 
 )ble river 
 38 broad, 
 to a 
 
 ing 
 
 ^ly forti- 
 ; 35,000 ; 
 ivn being 
 f a high 
 3 Charles 
 aond ; it 
 nd there- 
 raltar of 
 
 >Iontreal. 
 3 Roman 
 jdral and 
 innery — 
 g young 
 i. There 
 now con- 
 ral other 
 made a 
 
 the im- 
 ! Falls of 
 
 which I 
 )t permit 
 
 mnd the 
 whom I 
 ow come 
 3 Gulf of 
 idv£(nces. 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 227 
 
 
 My mtention was, as I have said, to penetrate if 
 possible, through New Brunswick, striking the river St 
 John^ as far above Frederickton as it becomes navi- 
 gable, and so on from the town of St. John by the Bay 
 of Fundy to Annapolis in Nova Scotia ; which route it 
 occurred to me, might be practicable by the mail wa<Tgon 
 or sleigh, which leaves Quebec, I believe, daily, with 
 room for one passenger. 
 
 . ^?.i''?'''^S *^"' P^^"^ however, to-day at dinner, 
 the difficulties and dangers of this route, great at any 
 time, were represented to be almost insuperable at this 
 late season. 
 
 I therefore allowed myself to be persuaded to abandon 
 It, for the route generally travelled, i.e., ?jy Lake Cham- 
 plam, Troy, Boston, and from thence by the Eno-Hsh 
 mail-steamer to Halifax, which I did very reluctantly 
 as 1 had travelled this route before, and 
 
 " What so tedious as a twice-told tale ?" 
 
 A railroad has long been in agitation between Halifax 
 and Quebec ; it would at once give this town a port on 
 the Atlantic, of the finest description, open at all seasons 
 of the year, while it would open up and develop the 
 resources of the two provinces through which it passed 
 and give us a highway to Upper Canada through our 
 own possessions. 
 
 Its advantages would be many and obvious, as a 
 glance at the map will suffice to illustrate ; yet such is 
 the supineness and want of energy of the colonists that 
 nothing is done, while the United States are far ad- 
 vanced with their railroad from their fine harbour of 
 Portland, in the State of Maine, to Montreal, with the 
 very same object in view. 
 
 '■'> % 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 
 |:f 
 
228 
 
 '*: 
 
 1 1' 
 
 i ! ') 
 
 m 
 
 n 
 
 
 I' J! 
 
 il' 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 ROUTE TO BOSTON — MR. WILSON's 80N03 — SUPPER PARTY — 
 UlilTISII STEAMER TO HALIFAX — RETURN TO WOLFVILLE — 
 GENERAL REMARKS — EXPENSES. 
 
 November 18th. — la pursuance of my new arrange- 
 ment, I returned hj the steamer to-day, and next day 
 reached my old quarters, in Donegana's hotel at Mon- 
 treal. 
 
 The next day I left Donegana's after breakfast, cross- 
 ing the river per steamer, and thence by the railroad to 
 St. John's, on the river Riclielieu, embarking in the 
 steamer for Lake Champlain in waiting for us: we 
 reached the lake as it began to grow dark. I was up in 
 time the next morning to admire the fine scener; on 
 both sides, the ruins of Fort Ticonderogali, &c., until 
 we reached Whitehall, where there wa. a struggle on 
 the part of the diflferent hotel-keepers to secure us to 
 breakfast. After which we travelled by stage for thirty 
 miles, and afterwards by the railroad to the town of 
 Troy, ^A hich there meets the grand trunk line branching 
 off to Boston, — the line I had now travelled being in- 
 tended, when completed, to connect the whole with the 
 lake at Whitehall. 
 
 We reached Troy towards the evening, where, having;, 
 
TO THF UNITED STATES. 
 
 220 
 
 PARTY — 
 LFVILLE — 
 
 arrange- 
 next day 
 at Mon- 
 
 taken up my abode in a comfortable botel, I went to th'^ 
 play, (or, as here designated, the museum,) in company 
 with my Quebec mercantile friend, and another fellow- 
 passenger. The performance commenced at eight and 
 was over by half-past ten. We found it a droll little 
 niorce<i,t, apparently but recently impoitcd from Eu- 
 rope; tlie characters sustained with ability and humour 
 while the charge of admittance to tlie pit was onlv 
 a quarter of a dollar. 
 
 Next day towards the afternoon, I proceeded on to 
 IJoston by the railway, supping and sleeping at the 
 hotel at Springfield : perhaps one of the most commo- 
 dious and well-conducted in the United States. I re- 
 sumed my journey in the morning, and reached my old 
 quarters, the Winthrope House in that town, in the 
 afternoon of the 23d November. 
 
 i i*. 
 
 ist. cross- 
 lilroad to 
 g in the 
 ' us: we 
 ms up in 
 ener; on 
 zc, until 
 uggle on 
 ire us to 
 for thirty 
 town of 
 ranching 
 jeiug in- 
 with the 
 
 I, havin 
 
 g. 
 
 Fares from Quebec to Montreal, . fo 12 G sterlinff. 
 
 To St. Jolin's, ... 044 
 
 To Whitt-hall, . . . ; 8 
 
 '^0 'Troy, 12 G 
 
 To Boston, . . . . 1 1 10 
 
 i'4»! 
 
 £2 19 2 
 
 I resumed ray acquaintance with my old friends, and 
 found myself otherwise comfortably lodged. 
 
 Hearing that my townsman, Mr, Wilson, the well- 
 known vocalist, was giving his concerts of Scotch music, 
 I went next evening. 
 
 He was well received, by a select but not over-crowded 
 company, 
 
 ^ The treat v/as indeed great to me, to hear my native 
 airs 80 exquisitely sung in a distant land. The selection 
 was good; the performance entirely by Mr. Wilson, 
 
 i'K.i' 
 
 m 
 
 ', (i 
 
230 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 \^:l 
 
 S;;] 
 
 accompanied by his daughter on the piano. The eong^ 
 that pleased mo most were — 
 
 "AiiM Robin Gray;" 
 " Tak' your mild clonk about yo;" 
 '• Scots wliii ha'e wi' Wallace bled ;" 
 " Get up and bar the door, ;" 
 
 Burns's fine lyric, " A man's a man for a' that ;" and 
 
 " Lord UIliti'H daughter ;" 
 " Joliii Anderson, my jo." 
 
 Ho suited the action to the word in each song, while he 
 interested his audience by some preliminary history of 
 each, or some anecdote regarding it : the whole took up 
 two hours. 
 
 I heard afterwards, with much regret, that this gifted 
 countryman died rather suddenly at <^nebec, not long 
 afterwards, where he had proceeded on his professional 
 tour. The water of the St. Lawrence, and of the great 
 lalces, is very apt to disagree with strangers, being 
 understood to be impregnated with lime. I suffered 
 much from it at first, and I fear it must have proved 
 fiital to him. 
 
 On my return, I learned that a party of citizens, 
 friends of General Taylor, had assembled at a supper, 
 given by them in the saloon of our hotel, to celebrate 
 the success of his election to the Presidency. 
 
 We could hear, as we sat in the next room, much 
 public speaking. I can vouch that the supper was 
 good, as some of the d4hHs, with a stray bottle of cham- 
 pagne, furnished ours — a meal I never eat in a general 
 way, but whether it was Mr. Wilson's entertainment, or 
 that my stomach sympathized with the banquet in the 
 next room, I partook on the present occasion. 
 
 Now as my townsmen know very well how siich a 
 
he songq 
 
 "and 
 
 while he 
 
 listory of 
 
 took up 
 
 lis gifted 
 not lonoj 
 fessional 
 he great 
 3, being 
 suffered 
 ) proved 
 
 citizenf, 
 
 supper, 
 
 lelebmte 
 
 Q, much 
 per was 
 )f cham- 
 general 
 raent, or 
 )t in the 
 
 siich a 
 
 TO Tlin UNITED BTATES. 
 
 231 
 
 party would have ended at home, they may bo curious 
 to know how it broke up here. 1 am boiuid to report 
 favourably of the Bostonians in this instance; they 
 retired one by one perfectly sober. Their drink had 
 been chami)agno, flavoured with a cigar, for I saw a 
 plateful go in, but neither in excess. 
 
 The truth is that our humid climate at home renders 
 a stimulant both necessary and agreeable, if wo could 
 use it as not abusing it; while the dry climate of 
 America renders a strong stimulant not only unneces- 
 sary but hurtful ; consequently, on an occasion like the 
 present, the light wines of France are preferred, and 
 ditlnk in moderation. 
 
 November 29th.— I bade adieu to my friends, and 
 embarked on board the British steamer, the name of 
 which I forget, for Halifax. I found the passengers 
 few, and the weather indifferent, but in other respects 
 was comfortable enough. Early in the morning of the 
 let December I reached Halifax ; as daylight permitted 
 I proceeded to my old quarters, where I found my 
 friends very glad to see me. 
 
 I remained some time at Halifax, to refresh myself 
 after my fatigues, receive and reply to my letters from 
 Europe, arrange money matters, and make some pur- 
 chases. 
 
 Saturday, December 30th.— The winter thoroughly 
 set in, and the ground covered with snow. I took what 
 was miscalled the coach, but which turned out to be an 
 open waggon, for Woltville, as early as six o'clock in 
 the morning, and in a pitiless snow-storm, accompanied 
 by a partial thaw, which lasted the whole day ; break- 
 fasting some ten miles on the road, and dining at 
 Windsor, I arrived about seven o'clock at my journey's 
 end, wet to the skin, and as uncomfortable as I could 
 
 I 
 
 !;< 
 
 'J 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 

 232 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 well be, and found myself in the arms of my daughters 
 
 were 
 
 arms 
 wno naci grown and 
 
 glad to see me again. I then had the pleasure to em- 
 brace ray sister and nieces. A change of clothes and 
 tea, did much in other respects to remedy the day's dis- 
 comforts. Fares, from Boston to Halifax, £4, 2s. lOd. ; 
 to WolfviUe, 12s. 4d. 
 
 Having now brought myself back to Wolfville, the 
 place from whence I set out, and the year to its close, a 
 pei'iod of somewhat more than seven months, I hope not 
 uselessly spent, when it has enabled me to become 
 acquainted with an interesting portion of the United 
 States of North America, the greatest republic of modern 
 times, the oflfshoot and colony of our common mother 
 country, owing its present power and grandeur to the 
 free institutions, and energy grafted on its infancy from 
 the parent stock, developing themselves under advan- 
 tages which have never occurred before, and may never 
 occur again, I shall wind up my tour with such general 
 remarks as occur to me. 
 
 The whole east coast of North America, from Nova 
 Scotia inclusive, to Virginia, indicates the action of 
 volcanic agency. The land is not naturally rich ; in 
 Pennsylvania and Virginia it improves. The climate is 
 temperate in summer and severe in winter throughout, 
 as compared with the same latitudes in our hemisphere ; 
 Halifax being in the latitude of the south of France,' 
 Boston in that of Rome, New York in that of Naples' 
 and so on as you advance towards the tropics. 
 
 This is, no doubt, partly caused by the two continents 
 all but meeting, in great breadth, within the arctic 
 circle ; while influenced in other directions by the two 
 great oceans which all but encompass' it. 
 
 On ascending the spurs of the Allfiehapips in Vimiri,-n 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 233 
 
 aughters, 
 hey were 
 e to em- 
 thes and 
 :lay'8 dis- 
 2s. lOd. ; 
 
 s^ille, the 
 s close, a 
 hope not 
 
 become 
 ) United 
 ■ modern 
 
 mother 
 r to the 
 icy from 
 ' advan- 
 ay never 
 
 general 
 
 m Nova 
 ction of 
 rich; in 
 imate is 
 •ughont, 
 isphere ; 
 France, 
 Naples, 
 
 ntinents 
 B arctic 
 the two 
 
 ir<rinin 
 
 the climate is tempered by their height, while the forests 
 of oak with which they are covered, indicate the fertility 
 of their valleys. 
 
 On descending their western slope into the valleys of 
 the Ohio and Mississippi, the country totally changes its 
 character and aspect, its tendency in the main is to 
 be level, while its fertility throughout is unbounded ; a 
 rich and deep alluvium appears everywhere ; the climate 
 IS also said to improve, it being more equable and 
 temperate. 
 
 They are more liable than we are to the two extremes 
 of heat and cold, resembling in that respect more the 
 contment of Europe. On the other hand, the east wind, 
 so destructive to us, comes to them softened and sur- 
 charged with water, in its passage over the Atlantic, 
 and disarmed of its noxious qualities. 
 
 Their disagreeable wind blows from the north-west ; 
 It comes over a great tract of land. When this wind 
 blows, the change of climate is, at all seasons of the 
 year, immediate. The cold is then intense in winter; 
 It seldom, however, prevails long, nor is it so unpleasant 
 to the feelings, or unhealthy to the system, as our east 
 wind. 
 
 The pioneers of the great western wilderness are prin- 
 cipally from the New England States; the farms being 
 subdivided at home as the population increases, the 
 overplus have to seek a living elsewhere. Thev partly 
 clear a farm, and construct a log-house, and then sell 
 and move farther on, not, as I had been led to think, 
 from a restless disposition, but because it is their voca- 
 tion in life to clear and prepare the wilderness for others 
 --they can do it at less cost, and are prepared from 
 habit with resources to meet the privations incidental 
 to it. 
 
 li 
 
234 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 f 
 
 Great numbers of people from Europe and ekewhere, 
 follow in their wake, to occupy the locations prepared 
 for them, as a neighbourhood is formed, and their wants 
 can be supplied. 
 
 The great activity and energy that pervade every- 
 where astonished me; more particularly in the great 
 northern towns, where the aspect of everything is 
 English, in habits, manners, and ideas. It appeared 
 to me to be literally England spread out in the New 
 World, as a recent traveller has very happily expressed 
 himself. They look up to the mother country with 
 respect, and are bound up with it in their mercantile 
 connexions ; a wonderful interest is taken in home 
 affairs. 
 
 But the most agreeable feature in American societv, 
 is the general prosperity and well-being of the lower 
 classes ; their education is eared for by the state ; they 
 can afford the necessaries, and some of the luxuries of 
 life ; they preserve their self-respect, and make a re- 
 spectable appearance out of doors ; they are not alto- 
 gether excluded from the company of their superiors, 
 which raises them, v.'hile the others do not fall ; — no 
 link in the chain is wanting, nor do the two extremes 
 of riches and poverty come out in bold contrast; — a 
 happy state of things, it must be admitted, for a com- 
 munity, when we bear in mind bow large a portion of it 
 the lower orders must of necessity form. 
 
 The tide of emigration from Europe is very great — 
 it is found to increase, and must be very beneficial to 
 America for centuries to come. 
 
 Those from home are, of course, the most numerous 
 and held in greatest esteem. 
 
 The Germans come over in great numbers, and are 
 considered good settlers ; they associate a good deal 
 
:8where, 
 prepared 
 ir wants 
 
 i every- 
 le great 
 ;hing is 
 ppeared 
 he New 
 xpressed 
 ;ry with 
 jrcantile 
 n home 
 
 societv, 
 le lower 
 ;e ; they 
 uries of 
 :e a re- 
 lot alto- 
 iperiors, 
 ill ; — no 
 ixtremes 
 'ast ; — a 
 
 a com- 
 ion of it 
 
 great — 
 iicial to 
 
 nmerons 
 
 and are 
 lod deal 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 235 
 
 among themselves, preserve their native tongue, and 
 sometimes edit a newspaper in their own language. 
 
 A good many sailors from the northern ports of 
 Europe are to be found in their mercantile marine, and 
 no doubt many from ours also. The country everywhere 
 presents a youthful look ; its great feature, however, is 
 the primeval forest, and the effect is somewhat out of 
 keeping to observe its silence and majesty broken in 
 upon by the saw-mill, the steam-engine, and the railr 
 road. 
 
 The Americans have done much, but much remains 
 to be done ; and centuries must elapse before it can in 
 this respect be brought to resemble Modern Europe. 
 
 Grapes, as I have said, are grown, and wine made in 
 the neighbourhood of Cincinnati on the Ohio, but not to 
 any great extent. As the wild vine is found, however, 
 everywhere, and they possess every variety of soil and 
 climate, there seems to be no reason why they should 
 not succeed on a large scale. 
 
 The markets are well supplied throughout the Union 
 with all the necessaries and luxuries of life, with every 
 variety of fruit and vegetable in succession, and at low 
 prices ; consequently their tables are abundant. Ice is 
 in general use — it cools their drink in summer, and is 
 used for every domestic purpose for which it is ap- 
 plicable ; it is imported in large quantities from the 
 northern into the southern states. 
 
 Their separation from the mother country, and the 
 war which led to it, are now matters of history ; tliat it 
 took place by violence is chiefly to be regretted, from the 
 hostile feeling it engendered in the minds of the colo- 
 nists ; fast wearing out, however, when injudicious 
 writers have fanned the dying embers by extravagant 
 caricatures of their manners and habits. 
 
 fl 
 
 
 f 
 
 III 
 
286 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 
 The use of tobacco, for instance, was at one time con- 
 sidered a vulgar habit in England ; now the upper and 
 middle classes smoke, as they have long taken snuff. I 
 am as fastidious as others, yet I observed nothing in 
 their use of it among the Americans during the whole 
 course of my tour, at which I could justly take of- 
 fence. 
 
 Their manners in other respects are very much the 
 same as at home, improved rather than otherwise by the 
 sociable way in which they live with one another, and, 
 for the reasons I have given, extending further down 
 the . ocial scale. 
 
 I observed with surprise the subordination and repose 
 of their large towns, and the silence that prevailed at 
 night in the midst of a crowded population. 
 
 I met with attention and civility during the whole of 
 my tour, while I never witnessed an instance of rude- 
 ness or assumption as between themselves. 
 
 The union of the States is understood in Europe to be 
 held together by so loose a tie, that they must needs have 
 a tendency to fall asunder, and there is an appearance 
 of some truth in this, if exposed to a heavy strain ; 
 nevertheless there are reasons for coming to a contrary 
 conclusion, which I shall give. 
 
 Large as the individual States of the Union are, they 
 have become in the practical working of the general 
 constitution, little more than our counties are to us: 
 one coinage, one system of laws, one system of duties, 
 govern the whole ; there is no jealous barrier from one 
 to the other, obtruding itself, as in the petty states of 
 Italy and Germany ; nor is there a different system of 
 duties, or in the value of money, which individualizes 
 our American provinces. 
 
 An American citizen leaves Boston for Virerinia or 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 237 
 
 !■ 
 
 line con- 
 jper and 
 muff. I 
 thing in 
 le whole 
 take of- 
 
 iiich the 
 !e by the 
 ler, and, 
 er down 
 
 d repose 
 ailed at 
 
 vhole of 
 of rude- 
 
 pe to be 
 3ds have 
 3earance 
 strain ; 
 contrary 
 
 ire, they 
 general 
 to us: 
 f duties, 
 rom one 
 states of 
 stem of 
 dualizes 
 
 zinia or 
 
 New Orleans, passing on as fast as the steamboat or 
 railway can carry him, neither heeding nor knowing 
 the boundary of one State from another. The United 
 States is practically his country; us such, he feels 
 thinks, and acts, independently of the great advantages 
 of the Union in itself, to which they cannot be supposed 
 to be insensible. Hence the great anxiety of Texas to 
 be admitted into the Union, and the rejoicings that took 
 place m California on a like event. 
 
 At the close of their War of Independence, the Fede- 
 ral Union consisted of thirteen States ; they now num- 
 ber thirty-one. If a separation were to take place, it 
 would probably be between the northern and the south- 
 ern States. 
 
 Besides the vexed questions of slavery and the tariff 
 there are other disturbing causes in operation, one of 
 which IS the wide basis of the election to the Presidency 
 which places it virtually in the liands of the working 
 classes-a consequence of which is that "the right man 
 IS not always in the right place." 
 
 Sta,tesmen of European reputation, such as the late 
 Mr. Clay, and the late Mr. Webster, have been and are 
 overlooked for a successful general, or for some other 
 gentleman popular with the masses ; while the upper 
 and middle classes are compelled to look on powerless 
 the utmost they can do in such a case being to throw 
 their weight into the scale of the candidate least obnox- 
 ious to them. 
 
 When the new President comes into power, he is beset 
 by a number of friends clamorous for office under him 
 on the ground of having assisted in his election ; so 
 .much so that it has become a custom for all or the 
 greater part of the appointments in his gift to be held 
 only during his tennrp nf nffin^ Whic. ;. i ^ . 
 
 i 
 
 f 
 
 HJ i 
 
 11 
 
238 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 right state of things, and cannot be expected to work 
 well. 
 
 Perhaps the remedy would be for deputations from 
 the different States to meet as before, and readjust the 
 general government by placing the election of their Presi- 
 dent more in the hands of the upper and middle classes 
 through a property qualification. They might at the 
 same time attach a larger salary to the oflSce, some 
 £20,000, or thereabouts, per annum, in reference to the 
 increased number, power, wealth, and population of the 
 Confederacy ; on the understanding, however, that the 
 places in the gift of the President for the time being (ex- 
 cept where necessarily of a temporary nature) should be 
 held for life, or during good behaviour. 
 
 The fear, however, is, that they dare not now take 
 such a step, however desirable it might be. 
 
 The system of universal suffrage is understood also 
 to work inconveniently in the individual states. 
 
 On my first visit to Boston, I found the Mexican war, 
 then in progress, to be unpopular with all classes : by 
 some it was designated as nothing but spoliation and 
 robbery ; others expressed a wish that England had 
 assisted the Mexicans. The impression left on my mind 
 was, that if the feelings of the northern section of the 
 Union had been consulted, or had its due influence been 
 felt, it would not have taken place. 
 
 As I promised to give the amount of the expenses of 
 my tour, I was particular in keeping an account. I find, 
 on referring to it, that they amounted to £129 sterling 
 — a very moderate sum under the circumstances. 
 
 I denied myself no legitimate want, and invariably 
 went to the best hotels. 
 
 I preferred travelling with gold, part remaining in my 
 carpet bag, part I carried about with me. Some people 
 
f ■ 
 
 III 
 
 TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 239 
 
 to work 
 
 DS from 
 I just the 
 ir Presi- 
 e classes 
 b at the 
 e, some 
 !e to the 
 n of the 
 that the 
 ing (ex- 
 lould be 
 
 ow take 
 
 3od also 
 
 can war, 
 5868 : by- 
 ion and 
 md had 
 Qy mind 
 1 of the 
 ice been 
 
 prefer buying bills from one town, payable at another. 
 Bank paper money is never safe j you lose by the dis- 
 count at some places, at others it is not negotiable. 
 There is some difficulty everyway ; English sovereio-ns 
 are readily changed at the hotels ; the objection to my 
 plan IS, that the weight is troublesome, while there is 
 danger of being robbed. 
 
 !:•: 
 
 
 i'il 
 
 'M; 
 
 enses of 
 
 I find, 
 
 sterling 
 
 variably 
 
 gin my' 
 e people 
 
 w 
 m 
 
 4 
 
243 
 
 RECOLLECTION'S 01' A VISIT 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 BOOK CLUB — MR. MACAULAY's HiaTORY OF ENGLAND — VOLTAIRK 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 I NOW domesticated myself with my sister for some 
 months, and fell into my usual way of life when here be- 
 fore. I enjoyed the bracing dry cold winter air, and the 
 invigorating exercise of sleighing daily through the crisp 
 snow and pleasant atmosphere. 
 
 I had recourse to the book-club of my friends the 
 farmers for my evening resource, which, when 1 had 
 well-nigh exhausted, Mr. Macaulay's volume of his 
 History of England came to my relief. It had been 
 published in a cheap form^ eagerly sought after in the 
 province, and a copy lent me by a friend. 
 
 I read it with great attention. The review he takes 
 of the history of England, or rather the summary he 
 gives of it, up to the time his narrative commences, is 
 able and comprehensive; but when he treats of our 
 civil dissensions under Charles the First, he seems to me 
 to allow his better judgment to be warped by his poli- 
 tical bias. 
 
 He overlooks altogether the real piety to which the 
 king had recourse for support in his afflictions, and 
 which he found to be equal to the task, while it stands 
 out in bold relief to the bigotry, fanaticism, and hypo- 
 crisy of his enemies. 
 
TO THE UNITED RTATES. 
 
 24 1 
 
 VOLTAIRK 
 
 for some 
 here be- 
 , and the 
 the crisp 
 
 6nds the 
 n 1 had 
 3 of his 
 lad been 
 r in the 
 
 he takes 
 mary he 
 lences, is 
 3 of our 
 Qs to me 
 his poli- 
 
 hich the 
 )n8, and 
 it stands 
 d hypo- 
 
 To whitewash (if I may use the expression) the Lontr 
 Parhament and Cromwell, at the expense of Kin- 
 Charles, because our present happy Constitution has 
 been the remote result, is, in my mind, to mistake the 
 means for the end. The arbitrary proceedings of each 
 m succession, prove that a representative government 
 and toleration in religion, in their present sense were 
 not then under8tood,-if the intolerant proceedings of 
 the I ilgrira Puritans, after their flight to the wilds of 
 America from religious persecution at home do not 
 prove them to be plants of a later growth, and of a more 
 civilized age. 
 
 I shall now quote the view taken of the same events 
 by a distinguished foreign writer and keen observer of 
 mankind- Voltaire, in his « Age of Louis XIV "—he 
 seems to grasp the whole in a few sentences. 
 
 " England, being much more powerful, affected the 
 sovereignty of the* seas, and pretended to hold the 
 balance between the powers of Europe ; but Charles the 
 First, who ascended the throne in 1625, was so far from 
 being able to support the weight of this balance, that 
 he tound the preservation of his own crown difficult and 
 precarious. He shewed himself desirous to render his 
 power in England independent of the laws, and to chan-e 
 the religion in Scotland. He was too obstinate to desist 
 from these designs, and too weak to execute them He 
 was a good husband, a good master, a good father and 
 an honest man; but he was an ill-advised kino- 'and 
 engaged himself in a civil war, which at last deprived 
 him of his crown, together with his life upon a scaffold 
 by a revolution that was almost unparalleled. ' 
 
 " This civil war, which was commenced in the mino 
 rity of Louis XIV., prevented England, for a time 
 from entering into the interests of its neiglibours. She 
 
 Q 
 
 h 
 
242 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 lost her weight together with her honour ; her com- 
 inercc was inti!rrupted, and she was regarded hy the 
 other nations of Europe as buried under her cvn ruins, 
 till the time when she on a sudden became more formid- 
 able than ever, under the dominion of Cromwell, who 
 subjected her by bearing the Scriptures in one hand, 
 the sword in the other, and the mask of religion upon 
 his countenance; and who in his government eifaced 
 the crime of usurpation by the real qualities of a great 
 king." 
 
 The king has been censured for not closing with the 
 arm;, , and accused of playing fast and loose in iiis nego- 
 tiations with its chiefs ; and is said to have observed in 
 au intercepted letter to his queen, that " some persons 
 wanted blue ribbons, whom hempen coUais would suit 
 better." 
 
 It is not clear that the king would have bettered 
 himself by closing with the army. . 
 
 Cromwell is understood to have stipulated for its 
 command, with the title of Earl of Essex. Considering 
 the inflammable materials of which it was composed, it 
 is difficult to understand how the king could have been, 
 under the circumstances, oth^^wise than a puppet or 
 prisoner in his hands ; while he would have felt himself 
 supported in his future designs by an earldom and the 
 counirjuance of his sovereign. 
 
TO THF UNITKD BTATEd. 
 
 243 
 
 er com- 
 by the 
 n ruins, 
 form id- 
 roll, who 
 le hand, 
 on upon 
 ; effaced 
 f a great 
 
 with the 
 lis nego- 
 irved in 
 persons 
 uld suit 
 
 bettered 
 
 for its 
 sidering 
 posed, it 
 ve been, 
 ppet or 
 himself 
 and the 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 TOUR TO PICTOU — COAL MINES — NEW GLASGOW — TOUR TO 
 
 PRINCE EDWARD S ISLAND — CHARLOTTE TOWN- 
 INTERIOR — RETURN TO NOVA SCOTIA. 
 
 -VISIT TO THE 
 
 After an interval of about four months spent quietly 
 with my sister and daughters at Wolfville— for three of 
 which the frost had continued without intermission, and 
 with great intensity,— for the sake of a little variety, I 
 paid a visit to Halifax, returning to Wolfville with the 
 intention of making a tour to Pictou, on the Gulf of 
 St. Lawrence, towards the north-western side of the 
 peninsula, and to see Prince Edward's Island in its 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 June 4th, 1849.— I left Wolfville about nine a.m., in 
 ray sister's open waggon of the country, drawn by one 
 horse, accompanied by my eldest daughter and her 
 cousin. 
 
 We drove to Windsor, a distance of fourteen miles, 
 where we dined at a friend's house, resting an hour or 
 two to bait the horse ; the morning cool but dry ; the 
 country backward for the season. 
 
 We resumed our journey by the road to Halifax, 
 striking ofip at some distance into a cross road leading 
 to Newport, where we were kindly welcomed, and slept 
 at a friend's house ; the scenery beautiful, consisting of 
 interval as it is called, or meadow-land, through the midst 
 of which ran a fine stream ; the boundary of the valley on 
 
244 
 
 RECOUiECTlONS OF A VISIT 
 
 'I 
 
 h 
 
 each side, rising somewhat abruptly ; the whole well 
 wooded. 
 
 Next morning, at nine a.m., wo resumed our journey en 
 route for Maitlund, a distance of thirty-six miles ; delayed, 
 in tlio first instance, by some calls on the road. After a 
 long drive through a somewhat diversified country of 
 hill and dale, commanding here and there tine views, 
 we came to an inn, where we got a very good meal, con- 
 sisting of tea, ham, eggs, &c., and bait for our horse, 
 but no sleeping accommodation was to be had ; although 
 still far from our journey's end, we had no help for it 
 but to resume our route ; the distance increased by the 
 nature of the country, consisting for the most part of 
 valleys, so abrupt and steep, that I was generally com- 
 pelled to dismount and lead our horse down by the 
 head. We found ourselves at last benighted, but with 
 a full moon ; the road through a dense forest, but other- 
 wise improving ; the girls beguiling the way with songs, 
 until we at last reached Maitland between eleven and 
 twelve o'clock at night, much fatigued. After knock- 
 ing the people of the principal inn up, which we found 
 to be but indifferent, and after some trouble on my part 
 in seeing the horse properly cared for, we got into toler- 
 able beds much wearied. 
 
 June 6. — After a tolerable night's rest and breakfast, 
 we looked about the village, which we found to be of 
 little importance, but commanding a fine view of the 
 sea, i.e., a farther extremity of the Basin of Mines, and 
 of the Shubenacady river, of which our landlord was the 
 ferryman. The wind blowing very fresh, we found him 
 unwilling to cross direct ; seeing us, however, anxious to 
 proceed, and it being low water, he proposed to take us 
 up the bed of the river a little way, and land us a mile 
 or two on the other side. To this we assented ; it proved 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 24S 
 
 hole well 
 
 ourney en 
 ; delayed, 
 After a, 
 ountry of 
 Qe views, 
 aeal, con- 
 air horse, 
 although 
 lelp for it 
 d by the 
 t part of 
 ally com- 
 n bv the 
 but with 
 mt otlior- 
 ith songs, 
 3ven and 
 }r knock- 
 we found 
 my part 
 ito toler- 
 
 >reakfast, 
 to be of 
 w of the 
 nes, and 
 . was the 
 und him 
 ixious to 
 take us 
 IS a mile 
 it proved 
 
 to bo a matter of some difficulty, and might have been 
 dangerous had our horse become frightened or restive. 
 After proceeding some little way up the shore of the 
 stream, we found the water, although a good deal shel- 
 tered, still much agitated. A ferry-boat, capable of 
 containing not more than one waggon and horse, was 
 brought to bear on the shore, after taking our seats in 
 it ; the horse was led in with the waggon, which, al- 
 though a little alarmed, he did more gently than 1 ex- 
 pected, holding him well by the head ; the boat was 
 gotten up in the course of some little time, about two 
 njiles on the opposite shore, where we landed safely, 
 first taking the horse out of the traces. This difficulty 
 overcome, we went on our way rejoicing, which proved 
 to be about two miles distant from the regular ferry 
 road, and fourteen from Truro, where we proposed to 
 halt and recruit for the day. This road we found like 
 all the cross roads, indifferent and steep, but otherwise 
 commanding a fine view, descending in a long straight 
 vista in succession, like steps of stairs, the forest on 
 both sides. On reaching the regular ferry road, we 
 found some improvements, which increased as we neared 
 Truro, running through the alluvial level of the George 
 river, which runs into and forms the extremity of the 
 Basin of Mines in this direction. Thus travelling much 
 at our ease, enjoying the prospect as we went along, 
 we were overtaken by a traveller in his waggon, driving 
 a good horse, whom we had seen at the ferry ; renewing 
 our acquaintance, we asked him the address of the best 
 hotel at Truro ; in reply to which, he said he kept a 
 good hotel himself; liking his appearance, without more 
 ado, we resolved to take up our quarters there, and so 
 kept him in sight ; we found his house, without being 
 the best m the place, clean and comfortable. 
 
 !-M 
 
 
 H ?: 
 
 m 
 
246 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 We had a tea dinner, consisting of ham, eggs, and 
 preserves, and a breakfast of the same. The charge for 
 the horse only appearing to be too much, viz., 58. cur- 
 rency, i.e., 4s. sterling, but this covered a feed of four 
 quarts of oats at night and the same in the morning. 
 We found Truro to be a clean, small town of wooden 
 houses painted white, in a level, fertile country, from the 
 dyke or alluvial land in the midst of which it stands. 
 
 The charge for the two meals was Is. 3d. currency 
 or an English shilling each, viz., 6s. ; beds, 28. ; horse, 
 4s.=12s. sterling This is the general criterion of our 
 day's expenses at an inn on this tour. 
 
 Next morning we set off after breakfast, intending, if 
 we could find quarters, to sleep on the road, the distance 
 to New Glasgow being upwards of forty miles, and hav- 
 ing no wish to be benighted as before. We were now, 
 however, on the direct coach road between Halifax and 
 Pictou, which we expected to find better than those we 
 had left ; nor were we disappointed, being generally 
 good, gradually ascending, and then descending by a 
 gentle slope for many miles, which we did at a smart trot 
 all the way, stopping to bait and lunch at an indifferent 
 house by the roadside kept by a Highland widow, being 
 now in the region of the Scotch settlers, with which the 
 aspect of all around so well corresponded, that I might 
 very well have fancied myself transported to the old 
 country by some magician's wand, while it did my heart 
 good to hear ray native accent upon every tongue. 
 
 Learning that at the ten-mile house, as it is called, 
 meaning ten miles equidistant from New Glasgow and 
 Pictou, by roads branching off at an angle, we could get 
 accommodation for the night. 
 
 We in due time reached the inn in question, kept by 
 a person of the name of Eoss : but indifferent. We 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 247 
 
 l^j 
 
 W7^ 
 
 nevertheless got clean beds, and made a very tolerable 
 shift. 
 
 Next morning we set off after breakfast for our friends 
 at New Glasgow, by an indifferent road, passing through 
 a hilly, romantic country. We first passed the Coal 
 Mine Village, and two miles further on we reached New 
 Glasgow, which we found to be a thriving small town on 
 the banks of a river, over which we approached it by a 
 drawbridge; the town itself lying pleasantly on the 
 sloping bank of the other side, where we were most 
 kindly and hospitably received by our friends. 
 
 The settlers here are mostly from Inverness and its 
 neighbourhood. Gaelic is spoken, and a sermon preached 
 in it every Sunday ; while we may be said to have met 
 with a truly Highland welcome. 
 
 It appears that, in colonizing Nova Scotia, the Crown 
 reserved the minerals in which it is supposed to abound. 
 A grant of these had been made to the late Duke of 
 York, and it seems was all the property he left at his 
 death, available to the payment of his debts. This has 
 caused much discontent in the colony, and was often the 
 subject of conversation. I suggested that the colonists 
 should buy up the Duke's debts, upon the understanding 
 with the Home Government that the minerals should 
 revert in perpetuity to themselves— an arrangement it 
 would not probably have been difficult to effect. 
 
 In the meantime the Duke of York's creditors have 
 proceeded to make the grant in question available to 
 them, by working the coal mines in this neighbourhood, 
 at a great outlay of capital, in the first instance, which 
 cannot fail to benefit the province. This has been some 
 years in operation, the mines are worked to advantage ; 
 they are said now to begin to pay, and there is no doubt 
 that they will eventually answer the purpose intended, 
 
 M 
 
 I 1 
 
248 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 as there is already a great demand for the coal in the 
 province, and in the United States— the port of Pictoii 
 being the resort of many square-rigged vessels for the 
 purpose. 
 
 The town of New Glasgow is situated within about 
 two miles of these mines, and owes its pronperity very 
 much to them, as it is the market to which the miners 
 resort to supply their wants. 
 
 There is likewise some shipbuilding going on here ; 
 the principal merchants, being men of capital, import 
 their goods principally from Scotland, in their own 
 vessels. 
 
 We were the guests of one of these gentlemen, through 
 whose family we saw everything interesting in the neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 Sunday, June 10th, we attended Divine service in 
 the Presbyterian Church, which, as was to be expected, 
 is predominant here. 
 
 We were driven next day by our friends to dinner with 
 a relative of theirs at the village of the mines, having 
 an opportunity to look round them after dinner ; they 
 appear to be extensively worked, giving employment to 
 between 300 and 400 miners and others, mostly from 
 Scotland. 
 
 The ships are stationed to take in their load some 
 miles below, near the mouth of the river, where the 
 depth of the water suits ; the coals being conveyed to 
 them by a numerous train of waggons, drawn by steam, 
 on a railroad constructed for the purpose, the road being 
 made to extend so far beyond the pier as to admit of the 
 ship lying underneath it—each waggon, in succession, 
 dropping its load into the hold. A like contrivance is 
 adopted at the works in filling each waggon, and the 
 \fho\Q is conducted in a very business-like manner. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 249 
 
 The price charged at the pit's mouth is said to be 
 high. 
 
 Wednesday, 13th June.— I now proceeded to put my 
 plan into execution of seeing Prince Edward's Island, 
 which I understood to merit a visit from a stranger! 
 Leaving the girls in charge of their kind friends, I took 
 the railroad in question, which was provided with one or 
 two cars for passengers, as far as it went, accompanied 
 by a numerous convoy of coal waggons, where I had an 
 opportunity to see the busy scene of loading going on ; 
 the vessels were numerous. From thence I crossed the 
 basin to Pictou in a steamer. 
 
 ^ I found Pictou to be a small town built on the sloping 
 side of the harbour, or, more properly speaking, in- 
 land lake or basin, formed by the confluence of three 
 rivers, approaching it in different directions, and com- 
 municating with the Gulf of St. Lawrence by an outlet 
 at one side, of no great dimensions, having the appear- 
 ance of being cut out for the purpose. At the entrance 
 of this outlet from the sea there is a bar, passable, how- 
 ever, by large vessels at high tide. 
 
 The country rises boldly round this basin, presenting 
 a varied and extensive view. 
 
 This town, like its neighbour New Glasgow, is settled 
 from Scotland. I received in it the warm welcome for 
 which my countrymen are noted— taking pot-luck, as 
 we say, this day and the next, at the house of a friend. 
 
 Friday, 15th June.— I took my passage to Prince 
 Edward's Island in the mail boat (a little ill-conditioned 
 schooner), for which we loosed sail about nine o'clock in 
 the morning, with a brisk breeze, which soon cleared us 
 of Pictou harbour ; it died away, however, after a little 
 time, leaving us becalmed in the gulf in a dense dry fog, 
 caused, as I was given to iderstand, bv the manv 
 
 I 
 
 n 
 
 
250 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 1^ 
 
 fires blazing, both in Prince Edward's Island and in the 
 province I had just left, for the purpose of clearing the 
 ground from the trees, somewhat increased by the long 
 drought. 
 
 At one o'clock I was summoned to dinner, which 
 consisted of one dish — i.e., ham and eggs. 
 
 Next day we found ourselves still becalmed, enveloped 
 as before, in smoke, and in ignorance of whereabouts we 
 were. One or two of the passengers amused themselves 
 by fishing, and caught a large cod, on which we fared 
 sumptuously at dinner ; after which we learned, from a 
 fishing boat, our whereabouts, and steered our course, — 
 a breeze springing up, we gradually approached the 
 island by a large level bay, finely fringed with wood. 
 This gradually drew to a narrow channel, through which 
 we ran, when a wide round inner bay opened upon us : 
 we gradually neared Charlotte Town, the capital of the 
 province, and landed in the evening, where I took up 
 my abode in the Victoria Hotel, a comfortable house, 
 had tea, and went to bed a good deal fatigued. 
 
 Prince Edward's Island lies in the Gulf of St. Law- 
 rence, distant forty miles from the opposite coast of 
 Nova Scotia. It is comparatively speaking a recent 
 settlement, and only partly occupied, there being some 
 impediment to the tenure of land, in consequence of the 
 Home Government having, in the first instance, par- 
 celled it out to individuals. These grants were accom- 
 panied by certain conditions, which, not having been 
 complied with, it is understood maybe eventually an- 
 nulled ; at present the settlers are considered to be copy- 
 holders, or lease-holders for 999 years, at a yearly rent 
 of one shilling per acrt. 
 
 In appearance, soil, and vegetation, it presents a won- 
 derful contrast to its neighbour, Nova Scotia ; remind- 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 251 
 
 ing me of nothing more than of descending from the 
 brown hills of Northumberland and Durham, upon the 
 green plains of Yorkshire : not a stone is to be seen on 
 the surface ; the soil seems to consist of a red retentive 
 earth mixed with sand, resembling the soil of Devon- 
 shire in England, more particularly in the neighbour- 
 hood of Exeter ; and I observed, where cuttings in the 
 road permitted me to see, that it seemed to rest on a 
 foundation of red sandstone. 
 
 The island lies, in an oblong form, on a line with the 
 coast of New Brunswick. 
 
 The general character of the ground is level, although 
 it undulates or rolls occasionally, and it is covered with 
 a variety of hardwood trees. 
 
 Charlotte Town is small, but regularly laid out, and 
 pleasantly situated on a neck or tongue of land, project- 
 ing into the inner basin or bay I have described, the 
 shores of which in every direction seemed fertile and 
 pleasant to the eye. 
 
 A gentleman whom I met at the hotel, one in autho- 
 rity I suppose, very politely shewed myself and another 
 stranger over the Province Building, containing the 
 Houses of Parliament, courts of justice, &c., for this 
 little island has its miniature parliament ; he afterwards 
 introduced us to the reading-room. 
 
 An English sovereign, which in Nova Scotia is equal 
 to twenty-five shillings currency, is here equal to thirty 
 shillings, and prices are understood to rule lower than in 
 the other British provinces ; there are, consequently, a 
 good many half-pay officers and others settled about the 
 island, more particularly in the neighbourhood of Char- 
 lotte Town, in very pretty villas. 
 
 The climate, from its position, is very severe in win- 
 ter, the Gulf being frozen over the whole distance be- 
 
252 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 tween the island and the mainland of Nova Scotia, so 
 that it is possible to cross from one to the other ; but it 
 is otherwise healthy and pleasant. 
 
 About this time news reached us of the ferment in 
 Canada, and riots at Montreal ; one gentleman who had 
 been in the midst of them, spoke, I thought very im- 
 properly, with contempt of our French fellow-subjects. 
 
 An Irish gentleman, whom I met at table, very 
 politely invited me to accompany him to his farm, a 
 distance of forty miles, as it would give me an oppor- 
 tunity to see something of the interior of the island ; 
 this was exactly what I wanted, I therefore accepted his 
 invitation with pleasure. 
 
 I hired the landlord's horse and gig, the best he had 
 probabl}^, but not a very elegant turn-out, that I might 
 be able to return at my ease. My new acquaintance 
 took the spare seat ; and away we went very pleasantly 
 together, on the morning of Wednesday the 20th of 
 June, after breakfast. Our road skirted a rather sluggish 
 river for some time; the clearings were made leaving 
 clumps of trees between, which gave the prospect a fine 
 clothed aspect, reminding me a little of the country at 
 home, between London and Windsor. My friend ac- 
 knowledged that this must be by accident ; not by the 
 good taste of the farmers. He was well acquainted on 
 the road, and called in here and there to chat ; I found 
 him an agreeable companion. We dined at a roadside 
 inn, and all went on smoothly till towards nightfall, still 
 some distance from his house, in rather a lonely part of 
 the road, our horse suddenly dropped down. Here was 
 a " fix," as the Blue Noses would say. We got him out 
 of the traces ; he rose, but to fall again. We tried him 
 with oats, which our landlord had providently placed in 
 a bag for his use, to no purpose. A boy or two, who had 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 253 
 
 collected round us from a neighbouring cottage, brought 
 water ; he would not touch it. An hour had elapsed ; it 
 was growing dark. What was to become of us ? I thought 
 of the Persian proverb, « This too shall pass away ;" but 
 how it was to pass away, I could not see : the Persian 
 proverb would for once be at fault. These melancholy 
 reflections were heightened by my thoughts of the land- 
 lord, when a countryman came past with a cart. After 
 assisting us in vain for some time, he thought he could 
 bring him round, he said, if time were given, proposing 
 that we should drive on with his horse, and he would 
 follow with ours. This arrangement was readily assented 
 to ; the exchange was made, and we drove on. Late at 
 night, or rather early in the morning, we came to what 
 appeared a noble avenue of trees, but which was literally 
 a road cut through the forest ; this he told me was the 
 commencement of his domain. In due time we reached 
 his house, but all was hushed in sleep. With some trouble 
 we got the domestics roused, and I was ushered into a 
 parlour in the dark. In a little time lights were brought, 
 and tea provided in another room. We had scarcely 
 finished, when we were called out by the arrival of the 
 horpe, which had so far recovered as to bring on the cart. 
 We had no alternative but to leave him in the field until 
 the morning, when we had him bled, and turned out to 
 pasture, under vvhich treatment he gradually recovered. 
 I got to bed at last, much fatigued. Next morning 
 I found myself in a fine country, surrounded by woods 
 and pasture-fields. My host was a widower ; his daughter, 
 a pretty little girl, came in to welcome him home with 
 a basket of fresh strawberries she had gathered in the 
 woods ; bis son, a fine young man, joined us at breakfast. 
 ^ This gentleman possessed property, and had purchased 
 his farm, partly cleared, in the way I recommend ; the 
 
 .ii 
 
254 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 house was of some pretension ; the out-houses, stables, 
 barns, &c., on a large scale, and in good order ; he did 
 not labour himself, and seemed altogether very happy 
 and independent. 
 
 He showed me over his farm, and then gave me a drive 
 round the neighbourhood. On our return, he drew my 
 notice to a space he had partly cleared by fire, consisting 
 probably of five or six acres. His humbler neighbours 
 complimented him on this, and proposed that they should 
 be employed to remove, with their teams of oxen, the 
 smaller stumps, and roots of brushwood. A bargain was 
 made accordingly ; I was curious to see how this was 
 done. Two oxen, harnessed together by the horns, having 
 a chain attached to them of some length, which being 
 made to clasp the root, a sudden jerk of the oxen forward 
 pulls it out by main force ; these are stacked together at 
 intervals, and eventually consumed by fire. This forms 
 a portion of the process of clearing in Prince Edward's 
 Island, but much still remains to be done. 
 
 The speaker of the House of Assembly, my host's neigh- 
 bour, was invited to meet me at dinner ; he came like 
 another Cincinnatus from the plough, with a hard hand, 
 but an intelligent head ; he was a man of property and 
 consideration, and had gone home to the old country for 
 his wife. 
 
 On Sunday we were driven to rather a primitive 
 church or meeting-house, some miles distant, in an open 
 family vehicle brought f'om Ireland. 
 
 On Tuesday the 26th of June, I bade adieu to this 
 kind and hospitable family, with a feeling of much re- 
 spect and esteem for its head, who accompanied me 
 some miles on my return. I dined at an inn of rather 
 humble pretensions by the roadside. My horse, who had 
 thoroughly recovered on his rich pasture, brought me 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 255 
 
 into Charlotte town towards the evening, at a brisk trot 
 all the way. 
 
 I have already stated that a British pound is equal to 
 30s. currency of the island ; the charge for board at my 
 hotel was 5s. currency per diera, equal to 38. 4d. sterling, 
 this covering, as usual, all charge for servants. I men- 
 tion it as being the lowest daily charge I had met with 
 in ray travels. 
 
 The passage from Pictou to Charlotte Town vms 12s. 
 6d. currency, i.e., 8s. 4d. sterling. A steamer was about 
 to be substituted for the sailing vessel in question. 
 
 Saturday, 30th June.— I embarked at ten a.m. on 
 board the before-mentioned mail schooner on my return 
 to Pictou, with a very favourable impression of Piince 
 Edward's Island. The morning being clear we had a 
 fine view of the inner basin, afterwards of the outer bay, 
 and of the channel which connects them— a lovely pro- 
 spect as brought out under the clear atmosphere of an 
 American landscape. 
 
 After the usual sorry fare at dinner, the wind lulled, 
 the vessel making little way ; next morning, about ten,' 
 we made the entrance to Pictou harbour, but being un- 
 able to weather the lighthouse, the wind being contrary, 
 we were compelled to land on the beach ; the mail bags 
 being carried to Pictou on the shoulders of the captain, 
 assisted by one or two of his crew. After passing the' 
 remainder of the day (Sunday) pleasantly with my 
 friends, accompanying them to the Presbyterian church, 
 I slept at the inn and rejoined my daughter and friends 
 at New Glasgow the next day. 
 
 One of the young ladies of this family had only lately 
 returned from a visit to the old country. I asked her 
 what struck her most in it ; she replied, " the depression 
 of the lower orders." 
 
25G 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 About this time the annual Synod, or meetinj]: of the 
 Presbyterian clergy, being held in this neighbourhood ; 
 I met several of the ministers to-day at dinner ; they 
 uppearet tA> be hiustly from Scotland, and were well 
 infor;!/(i, p" . v gentlemen. I had also met several at 
 dinner at Pictou, with whom I was much pleased. 
 
 Tuesday, July 3. — We left our kind friends in New 
 Glasgow this morning, en route honjewards ; our horse, 
 after his long rest, si)'-. 1 .^ Po;jie spirit at the commence- 
 ment of the journey. We reached Truro, a distance of 
 forty miles, resting at our old hotel. 
 
 Next day we took the higher road by the bridge over 
 the Shubcnacady river, on the Halifax road, where we 
 slept at a village inn, being regaled at our evening meal 
 with salmon caught in the river. 
 
 The landlord observed to me next morning that there 
 had been frost over niglit, and he was fearful for the 
 crops. 
 
 » This observation had been frequently made to me in 
 the course of this little tour. I mention it because it 
 shows what is here to be feared as the enemy to agri- 
 culture, how late it continues, and how early again it is 
 liable to set in. The days, I can vouch for, are very 
 warm. The harvest time comes, however, and a crop 
 with it. 
 
 Next day we crossed the country, dining at a friend's 
 on the road. This gentleman happened to be one of the 
 aristocracy of the province — an enemy to free-trade. He 
 talked of the want of reciprocity on the part of the 
 United States, and wanted retaliatory duties ; although 
 otherwise an intelligent man, he allowed his better 
 judgment to be warped by his political views. 
 
 I pointed out to him that they could not grow wheat 
 in the province ; that they had no money to buy it ; 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 257 
 
 but that the United States took in exchange their fish 
 firewood, potatoes, coal, and gypsum ; that any duties 
 they put on these, could only bo a question between 
 their own Government and the consumer, provided they 
 put no export duty on the flour, which it was not pn 
 tended they did ; and were we, because they taxed their 
 consumers, to commit a like folly, and pay eightpence 
 for a loaf we could now purchase for fuurpence. 
 
 We resumed our journey after dinner, and slept at a 
 friend's. 
 
 Next morning we resumed our journey, and reached 
 Wolfville in the evening of the day after, very much 
 pleased with our excursion. 
 
 R 
 
258 
 
 IlECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 VISIT TO NICTAU AND ITS NEIOIinOURIIOOD — DIGBY- 
 ANCE MEETING— GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 -TEMPER- 
 
 Iti: I 
 
 n 
 
 M.- 
 
 The high road from Halifax to Annapolis and St. 
 John (New Brunswick), by the Bay of Fiindy, passes 
 through our village of Wolf ville : it is consequently much 
 travelled. 
 
 I had not seen the country in that direction ; a friend 
 of the family having invited me to visit him at his farm 
 in the neighbourhood of Nictau, I put my sister's waggon 
 again in requisition, and accompanied by my youngest 
 daughter and another of ray nieces, commenced our 
 journey on the morning of the 17th of July, after break- 
 fast. The road we were now travelling is considered to 
 pass through the garden of Nova Scotia ; it is certainly 
 the most picturesque and thickly settled portion of the 
 province ; the long high-wooded ridge ending in Cape 
 Blomedon, skirting the Bay of Fundy, and intercepting 
 it from our view, was on our right, while between us and 
 it was the valley at its foot, about ten miles in breadth. 
 The river Cornwallis taking its rise near, and flowing 
 through it, towards the Basin of Mines ; while a little 
 further on the river Nictau takes its rise,and flows through 
 it in an opposite direction to Annapolis and the Bay of 
 Fundy ; the valley possessing very much the same width 
 and character throughout. The day was fine and we en- 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 259 
 
 joyed our drive very much, until we reached a frieiid'H 
 house (seventeen miles distant), where we dined ; after 
 
 w 
 
 inch we resinned our route, sleopinfr at a village called 
 Hheffield. The next day we rcjiohed our friend's house, 
 where we were kindly and hospilubly received ; we found 
 the farmers in the midst of their hay-making, with com- 
 plaints of its scantiness, from the Ljreat drought ; prayei-s 
 having been offered u^) in the churches for rain. 
 
 My host's house stood on level ^;round in the midst of 
 an orchard fronting the valley, into which his farm de- 
 scended far. He was of German descent ; had settled 
 here in early life ; purchased his land in a wild state, 
 and by a life of industry and perseverance had become 
 rich ; he lived in a somewhat patriarchal state, having 
 his family settled round him in separate farms. He in- 
 troduced us to the neighbourhood, took us some fine 
 drives, and we thus passed a few days very pleasantly. 
 
 Wishing to see Annapolis as I have said, I drove the 
 girls to it through Bridge towD, situated on the river 
 Nictau, in the bottom of the valley ; it is the germ pro- 
 bably of a thriving town ; at present it consists of little 
 more than a few wooden houses, with a wooden bridge 
 over the river. We passed the night at a friend's house 
 near Granville, and reached Annapolis next morning 
 —a small town built of wood, situated where the river 
 commences to be navigable, opening up into a wide 
 stream or estuary as it flows towards Digby, and its 
 exit into the Bay of Fundy. 
 
 I intended this to have been the limit of my excur- 
 sion, but to please the girls I drove them on to the 
 town of Digby, at the bottom of the bay or harbour 
 formed by the river, a distance of about twenty miles 
 farther, to do which we had to cross the ferry at Anna- 
 polis in the first instance. 
 
260 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 We found the road to be through a very hilly country, 
 and we had to cross the Bear river by a ferry near its 
 mouth, which delayed us so long that we did not reach 
 Digby until the day had closed in ; much fatigued. 
 
 To our surprise we found the town all astir, and the 
 inns full of company; with great difficulty we got accom- 
 modation. On inquiring the cause, we learned that a 
 temperance meeting was to be held in the morning, 
 which had brought all the neighbourhood together ; and 
 that a large party was expected from St. John (New 
 Brunswick) by the steamer. 
 
 Next morning the scene was very animated ; the 
 steamer arrived with music playing, and emptied its 
 living cargo among a great concourse of spectators. 
 They seemed to be very fine specimens of the New 
 Brunswickers, who bespoke in their appearance, dress, 
 and manners, the good effects of temperance. 
 
 The company now spread about in groups on the 
 green slopes around. In my walk I entered into casual 
 conversation with one of these strangers, apparently of 
 French descent ; in the course of which he remarked, 
 that the colonists, in his opinion, ought to have been 
 contented with the way England had been accustomed 
 to govern them ; they had protective laws for their 
 timber trade, while it had been otherwise lenient, and 
 had worked generally for their good ; tliey had clamoured 
 for self-government, he said, and all these advantages 
 had disappeared. 
 
 I remarked that the mouth of the river is broad at 
 Digby, and that the break or opening in the ridge, 
 which gives it access to the Bay of Fundy, is steep, 
 narrow, and on one side of the estuary. Here the valley 
 I have described terminates, and it appears to me to 
 bear the marks throughout, of having formed one large 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 261 
 
 fresh-water lake at a time when the ridge ran unbroken, 
 both here and at Cape Blomedon. 
 
 Towards the afternoon I ordered out the waggon, and 
 proceeded some miles on our return, by the upper road, 
 and the bridge over the Bear river. Next day we 
 reached Annapolis, passing through which we crossed 
 the Nictau at Bridge town, where we drank tea with a 
 friend ; we then resumed the road and reached our kind 
 host's rather late in a moonlight night, the evening cool. 
 After remaining another day or two to recruit, we 
 bade adieu to our friends, and resumed our route home- 
 wards, which we accomplished in one day. 
 
 Having now made myself acquainted with our British 
 provinces of North America, as far as circumstances 
 would permit, before I take leave of them, I shall close 
 the subject with such general remarks as occur to me. 
 
 The climate of the maritime provinces, although 
 severe, is softened by the neighbourhood of the sea, while 
 the vicinity of the great lakes ha3 a like beneficial ten- 
 dency on the climate of Upper Canada. 
 
 They are otherwise healthy in the extreme, and found 
 to be, in the main, well adapted to settlers from the 
 British Islands. 
 
 With exception of the French settlements, they may 
 be said to be as yet little advanced beyond early youth, 
 but are filling up rapidly. 
 
 Although the colonists are friendly with their neigh- 
 bours of the United States, they do not amalgamat , but 
 rather seem mutually to keep aloof—a sufficiently broad 
 line of distinction is drawn. 
 
 The gentlemen settlers of Upper Canada have a high 
 sense of honour, are respectably connected at home, and, 
 with some of the exclusiveness of England, are loyal to 
 the Crewn to their heart's core. 
 
2G2 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 The commuDication with the Atlantic by the river 
 St. Lawrence, and the long extent of lake frontage, 
 offer great commercial advantages, which the Colonial 
 Government has not shown itself slow to appreciate. It 
 has ah-eady, by a judicious system of canals, overcome 
 the impediments caused by the rapids of the St. Law- 
 rence, by means of which large square-rigged vessels al- 
 ready navigate Lake Ontario. It has also overcome the 
 obstruction offered by the Falls of Niagara, to the navi- 
 gation of the upper lakes, by the Welland Canal— a 
 magnificent succession of locks constructed of solid 
 masonry. The colonists have also at last commenced 
 their railroad, to open up and connect their provinces 
 with the harbour of Halifax ; there is, therefore, reason 
 to conclude that as population increases, they will con- 
 tinue to advance westward along our frontier line, until 
 brought up, in the distance of time, by our colony of 
 Vancouver's Island, and the shores of the Pacific. 
 
 Of the wisdom of the Home Government, in granting 
 these fine colonies self-government and free-trade, I think 
 there can be no doubt It is only to be regretted that 
 the measure of the colonial legislature for indemnifying 
 the losses of those engaged in the rebellion, was a conse- 
 quence, in as far as it outraged the feelings of the gallant 
 band of settlers, who assisted to put it down, and 
 which broke out into open disturbance on the Governor- 
 General (Lord Elgin) giving effect to the obnoxious 
 law. 
 
 Our rule now presses so lightly on these colonies, 
 that we may safely assume it will be of long duration ; 
 for centuries to come, if it continues as long, as it will 
 be beneficial to the colonists themselves, opening up an 
 ever increasing market for our manufactures, and a 
 home for our surplus population. 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 2G3 
 
 In the constitution of their elective franchise, they 
 should, it appears to me, stop short of universal suffrage. 
 The constitutions of the probably too much vaunted 
 Republics of antiquity, are not safe guides in a matter 
 of this importance, inasmuch as the larger part, if not 
 the whole, of their lower orders, consisted of slaves, who 
 it is reasonable to conclude, were in possession of the 
 labour market. 
 
2G4 
 
 RECOLLECTIONS OF A VISIT 
 
 CHAPTEE XXVII. 
 
 VOYAGE HOME — STEAMER— PASSENGERS- 
 POOL — EXETER. 
 
 -ARRIVAL AT LIVER- 
 
 I HAD now beeD two yeais absent from England ; my 
 affairs required my presence at home. It occurred to 
 me that ab the climate of Nova Scotia agreed with them, 
 and that they would be properly taken care of by their 
 kind aunt, I might leave my daughters with advantage 
 another year under her charge, proposing to return for 
 them myself 
 
 Having made this arrangement, I took my leave ; 
 proceeded to Halifax ; secured my passage on board the 
 British mail-steamer Europa, Captain Lott, belonging 
 to the Cunard line, for which the charge was £30 cur- 
 rency or £24 sterling. 
 
 In the evening of the 10th of August the report of 
 two guns (the usual signal) announced the arrival of the 
 steamer from Boston. I hurried on board and secured 
 a berth ; in the course of an hour or two we were under 
 weigh, steering our course for England with the full 
 power of her steam. 
 
 There seemed to be about 100 cabin passengers, in- 
 cluding those taken on board at Halifay; ; not crowding 
 us too much, as there was accommodation for many 
 more. 
 
 Among these I observed Fienchmen, Spaniards, na- 
 
TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 2C5 
 
 ; my 
 
 tives of the United States, of the British provinces and 
 settlers onginally from the mother country. ' 
 
 No vessels can be better adapted for the purpose for 
 which they are intended than these mail-steamers • the 
 power of their engines is great ; their speed corrsponds 
 while no expense is spared in the arrangements for the 
 convenience and comfort of the passengers ; they have 
 been not unaptly styled floating palaces. 
 
 The crew consists of about 100, of all grades, generally 
 picked men. They ha\e a proper complement of officers 
 besides the captain and surgeon ; and the ship's duty 
 goes on like clockwork. 
 
 The captain and the mail agent (who is a Govern- 
 ment officer, generally a lieutenant in the na^y) mess 
 with the passengers ; the other officers, including the 
 surgeon, have a table for themselves. 
 
 On Sunday, all the crew off duty, assemble in the 
 cabin in their best clothes, when the mail agent reads 
 the morning prayers of the Church of England. If 
 there happens to be a clergyman among the passengers 
 a sermon follows. ' 
 
 The passage-money is thought to be high (£35) from 
 J^ngland, which does not vary to whichever port in 
 America you are bound. Government also allows a 
 large sum for carrying the mails. It is a joint-stock 
 concern, sai . to be very profitable ; the shares are not 
 allowed to come into the market, nor are its affairs or 
 the amount of its dividends, made public. ' 
 
 'rhe wines were of the best quality, Champagne, 5s 
 per bottle ; Port and Sherry, 4s. per bottle. The stew- 
 ard s fee is included in the fare. 
 
 ^ A iine .)f opposition steamers has been established in 
 tne United States ; the legitimate effect of which should 
 bo to reduce the fares. 
 
 s 
 
266 
 
 VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Screw steamers are coming into use on this passage ; 
 tliey perhaps take three or four days more to accompHsh 
 it ; their charge is £20. 
 
 Nothing could be more agreeable than this voyage 
 proved ; the sea was calm, and the sun shone during the 
 whole passage. 
 
 I was sometimes amused to observe the porpoises try 
 to keep up with us ; they ran in pairs by the ship's side 
 with great velocity, alternately plunging a little, and 
 then rising to the surface. 
 
 On the 19th we ran along the coast of Ireland, and 
 on the 20th of August, just ten days after I embarked, 
 W8 v.-ere safely landed at Liverpool. 
 
 I fon.nd the captain to be a pleasant man, a good sea- 
 man, aad attentive to his passengers. The passengers 
 were also woll-conducted and intelligent. 
 
 I put up at the Adelphi Hotel at Liverpool. The 
 next day I proceeded on by the railroads, via Birming- 
 ham and the vale of Gloucester to Exeter, with the in- 
 tention of visiting my relatives at Plymouth. I remained 
 a day at Exeter to rest, and to see its cathedral again. 
 
 I was forcibly struck with the prosperous appearance 
 of everything in England. Exeter, which I had recol- 
 lected in early life, a dull cathedral town, I found now 
 to be full of life and animation ; its streets crowded, 
 and the city doubled in size. Plymouth, and every- 
 where else, the same. 
 
 I now became satisfied of the truth of my lemark in 
 America, that England is advancing like a young, not 
 like an old country. 
 
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