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Ai)peariuice of the tt)\vii- Sociiil life and politics — \V\ nhii'^r — ("diK'^tiuitiii -- Bishop's Court- Simon's I5ay — Sisters ot Charity — The Public Lihrarv — The ()bser\atory — Laiij,'alc- iialele — The Drakcnstciii — Piiarl - Fraiish-Hock - Stellcii- hoscli ......... VI co\ti:nt.s of C'lIAI'TKK Iir. '••■\STI;kn- I'KOVINCKS - KAFFRAUIA. 'Tl'ly .'U to Ai;(;nsT l,",. ^Tuu. ana Kullirs. -The const of I'on.lol ',' "'" .. CHAPTER TV. NATAL. August l.j to Au(}lst 2(J. '^•n-i.an~CuUivationoftlK.sn.ar.cano-ThoIal,ourors - A..„ \n PAKT II. y^'lV /KALANI,. CHAPTER r. THE PASSAGE. I-'HOM Calk Town to MKLnounxE, Skptembku 1. TO OC'TOBKK 5. I, OCTOIJEU 10 TO lo. I>t'lif,'lit.s and (Irawhacks of tiulls- Passen-ors - Distanoos 01 a voyage in the Southern Seas- Tin: FIRST VOLUME Vll I'AIIK . l(i'.l CHAPTER II. SOUTH ISr,AND. OcTOliKU 15 TO OCTOIIKR '21, IHR.I. Invprcarpill T.iiko Wakatiim— Duneilin Cliristolmrch — . stiition in tlie interior ....... CHAPTER III. NOUTH ISLAND. OCTOHKK 25 TO NoVKMHKi; 12, IHHf}. Wollinr;ton — Picton Nelson Now I'lyniouth — Kawliia - Aucklaiul— The Hot Lakes -Political Surveys . . . I«»;{ PART III. CHAPTER I. PASSAGE FROM COLOMBO TO ALBANY, GLKNELG, AND MKLIiOUKNE. April 9 to 27, 1884. Eruptions of submarine volcanoes -The Coco Islancls Albany —A cyclone— Glenelg- Arrival at Melbourne , . . 24'.) CHAPTER II. VICTORIA. From Octorer r-> to 15, 1883. From April 27 to May 5, 1884. Historical notice-Eflfects of the discovery of the ^ohl mines - Ai)i)earance of Melbourne-The intercolonial railway. . 257 VIU CONTKNTS 01 CIIAPTKK III. Ni:W KOirH WALKS. FitoM N'ovKMni'.u 17 TO Novkmhki! '2'.K 1hh;{. Tkom May (» to May '20, IHHI. I ■ W i K Ilistorioal notioo Appciiniiicc of Sydney iJoliiiiy \'»\y 'I'ln' I'nivcrsil^' Excursidiis to dric liliio MdUiituiiis iiiid on tlif Hawkesbury Kivor Tlio uni3ln[)loy('(l uicii . . . . "Jmi CIIAPTKH IV. QI'KENSLANn. I'uoM NovKMUKK *27 TO Dkckmhkk i;?, IMH;}. Iliisliano- Parliiif,' Downs Jlookhampton — Town.svillo Tliursilav Island — I'olitical aarvev .... :iiil TAUT IV. I y 1)1 A. CUAPTEll I. .TAVA, SINGArOlU:, CKYLON. DECKMnKU 14, 188;}, TO .Tanuauy Id, 1884. In the Dutch seas P>atavia--Mussuhnan fanaticism — liuiten- zor^' — Monopoly and forced labour - l{of,'(Mits and Uesidcnls — Tjandjur liandong The volcano Tankulian-rrahu Visit to the Rej^ent — New Year's eve — From liatavia to Sin<,'apore — The Chinese element — Voyage to Colombo — Kandy — Excursion amonp: the mountains — The Cinf,Mlese- - Kaliirs in the island of Ceylon— Departiu'c for Madras . :).').") M THK FIRST vol. r NIK I\ CIIAITKn II. I'UIK . ;;iij MADHAS. From Januaky ir, to Fkhhua ItY 7, Arrival at Ma(lruH--ViKit t,, (Juiii.ly I'mk St. Tlicnms'H Mniijit 'i'lio Mvsoro State Tij,'(>r.s at iv railway station TIkj Maiiarajah of Mysori' Kcvicw at naii','al,.iv_Tho Indian army The Maliarajahs l.all iJritish n'sid.ius-- M^T. C(.a(li)ii .\Ksault of arms at tlit- cami. Ttniplfs of Coiijcvcram Arrival of the Viceroy at Madras .Juurncv to llydi^n-l.ad lioluram The Niziim's State Sir Salar •Tun^' The feudatory princes Tlie Ni/am's army Tlie Viceroy's durbar Tlio Nizam's duri.ar - Fetes at liyder al.ad A villa of Salar ,Jum^' A mornin;:,' walk -City of Hyderabad ... V\i,'. n\iH ITINERARIES AND DISTANCES. St. steamer, r. railway, r. carriai?e. Volume I. St. .v^ r. c, ('. r. xt. r. c. r. .It. St. St. r. St. St. r. r. r, uikI /'. St. .St. St. St. St. St. r. St. From Southampton to Cape 'I'own . „ Cape Town to Port Klizabcth . „ Port P:iizab(!th to Grahuni'.s Town „ Graham's Town to King William's Town Excursion to Peri Bu.sh . . . . From Kinp: William's Town to East London „ East London to Durban . „ Durban to Pietormaritzhurg . E.xcursion to .Swartkoj) Valley . From J'iotermaritzburg to Durban . „ Durban to Cape Town . „ Cape Town to Melbourne „ Melbourne to Mluffs (Nt'w Zealand) „ Bluffs to Invercar •JOt) 21 'J f^ Xll FTINKRARIKS AND DI STANCES .If I 111'! home- hack r. St. Kt. .'II xl r. and lit. ■AW\ St. r. c and horsi'hach Ht. at. r. ^t. at. r. r. r. 0. r. r. .^•^ ;ind c. ^H .1^ 3 ••-' Ci s^*5 Jf « c fc .a- ti frsj .« «" s. 8=5 ?f« ' C " W ' Page ' liioiiu'lit forward . From Tanranf;ii to Oliiiicmulu, the (icy- scrs, Wairoa, Liikc Koto Maliaiiii, Camhridiro, and llaiiiilton „ Hamilton to Auckland Exciu'sion to Kawau Island From Auckland to Sydney J^xcursion to Kiclnnond . , . . Kxcursioii to tiic liluo Mountains Kx('nrsif)n tf) Hawkt'sbury Kivcr From Sydney to lirisbanc. To Darlinjj: i)o\vns, Wc'stbrook, Harlcxton and back ...... ( From Brisbane to Batavia .'?,(tS(; , I E.xcur.sions .... US < From JJatavia to JJuitcnzorg, Tiandur, IJamlon.Lr, volcano of Tankuban I'raliu and back ...... From Batavia to Sin} i 2!h; ; [ .'{()■! ' I 307 : 1 r. (22 r ami r. JXtf Illiquid Imrnrhiirh ih'jthant r. .'. ;iiii] horse- I nick r. and (hindtj .If. ■It. ?'. 30 ]03; (14 171 101. ! Hriin^riit forward . iM-om Aliiuodabad to Ahoo-rd. Station l]r>] „ Aboo-road Station to Mount i Aboo and back .. Aboo-road Station to Jodbporc Junrtioii .. .lodlipon- Junction to Tali J'ali to Jodliporc „ -'"dbpon! to, Jodbporc. Timet ion ., -''Jdbporc! Junction to, Jovporc. ' „ Jcyporc to Ddlii Dolbi to Tesliawur . [ Kxcnrsion to tlie Kliybcr Pass . I J From IVsbawnr to Lalioro. Amritsar, ' A<,Ta, AUababad. I'.onarcs, Calcutta prom Calcutta to Darjcolinj; . nCA) j Excursion to Sikkini . . . 22 [ ,( Return to Calcutta . . ' SGij I From Calcutta to Colombo (Ceylon)' ' :| „ ColomlH) to Albany (Kin'^'aeoref'V\ I J Sound), . . ;?,':{71» j I „ Albany to Glonclg (Adelaide) l,'s]8 I „ Oleiielif to Melbourne „ Melbourne to Sydney „ Sydney to San Francisco, viz. : r ,. Sydney to Newcastl(! j „ Newcastle to Norfolk Island '. I „ Norfolk Island to Suva (Fijis) . j Excursion to Uau, tbere and back , From Suva to Levuka I „ Levuka to Man^^o Island '. I „ Man>ro to Lonia-Eoma I „ Lonia-Loinato Nina-Tobutava ■tf. and sai/ !n' (Keppel Island) . j „ >iiiii-'l"ol)utava to Apia, Upf)lu , I (Samoa) , Apiat(j i'ango-Pango(Tutuila Island) r: 52 o2 ! no — 1,600 55 T 000 001> 70 60 j 115 36 I 285 1 )80 Carried forward . . , 38,554 f See vol. i. p. 219, ami 'ol. „, ,,. ^ic. 318 I . XIV ITINERARIES AND DISTANCES Brouirlit forward . From Pango-Pango to West Cape (Tutuila) .... 18 (2,757 in F[.M.S. ' Espiegle ') „ Tutuila to Honolulu 2,280 „ Honolulu to San Fnincisco 2,100j „ San Francisco to Portland „ I'ortland to St. Paul (North I'acific Kivor) „ St. Paul to C'liicafro . „ Chicago to Niagara, Falls by Detroit „ Niagara Falls to Lcwston, Toronto Kingston and Prescott to Mont real „ Montreal to Quebec ,, Quebec to 15oston . „ Uoston to New York „ New York to Newport and back „ New Yf)rk to Quci'nstown (Cuuard Southern track) . Total , 13,084 English miles . 2'° 8,976 Page 1,911 410 512 353 172 420 230 424 43.-. 440 45t! 465 ' 466 ' 4(;(; 466 467 4t;!i 47(1 471 j 482 ,12,608 12,984 11,351 Total geographical miles, 60 to the degree 53,959 424 r.\:> I 440 — 45ti [)11 40.-) 410 4«;(; 512 4(;(> ?53 nu\ 172 4r.7 J20 4tl!l 230 470 - 471 - 482 )84 THROUGH THE BRITISH EMPIRE. INTRODUCTORY. Barherini Palace, Rome, April 25, 1883. Since my childhood I have dreamed of India. More than once, wlien I was on the point of starting, unforeseen obstacles thwarted my plans. In my 'Promenade ail tour du Monde,' publisJied ten years ago,i I stated my intention of visiting this land of wonders. It was an engagement made with myself, it is true, but before witnesses. My fulfil- ling it or not was a matter very likely of indif- ference to the readers of that book, but the thought of proving faithless to my self-made promise has often haunted me, and during my periodical visits to Rome I felt a kind of remorse whenever I passed by a certain bookshelf in my library con- taining some neatly bound volumes — my 'Pro- menade,' with the translations with which it has been honoured. Sweet satisfaction of an author's ' Translated into English under the title of • A Kamble round the World.' VOL. I. B INTRODUCTION vanity, but not without a mixture of secret un- easiness. To put an end to this, I banislied these books to 2 corner of tlie room wliere they miglit no longer intrude upon my sight. Tliis morning cliance led me thither, and on seeing them again, tlie same unpleasant feelings recurred. I made up mv mind then and there to set ofl* at once for India. Every prudent traveller, before beginning his travels, takes care to overhaul his trunks and, if he thinks of facing the tropics, himself. The trunks are sound enough ; as for my state of health, yEsculapius has seen and examined it, and ^Esculapius iinds that, under given conditions, length of days admits of long journeys. We are off, then, for India. But not by the hackneyed route of the Suez Canal. Let us return, rather, to the old ways, and double the Cape, or, better still, stay there awhile. We will add to our programme Australia and Canada, and we shall then have well-nigh completed our journey through the British Empire. V{e?uia, May 30. — How pleasant to find oneself in one's own nest, especially on the eve of quitting it ! IIow delightful is che company of family and friends ! But my plan of travel meets witii an icy INTRODUCTION ;rct im- (1 these y miglit iiorning I again, lade up lice for ing liis and, if ■ The tate of it, and ditions, l)y tlie return, ipe, or, to our 3 shall lirough oneself uitting ly and an icy welcome among them. Tlie ladies, above all, ex- liort and rebuke me, and tell me tliat at my age it is mere folly. And they really think so, to judge by the looks tliey furtively interchange. When I mention India and Australia to my son, he remains respectfully silent. The silence of peoples is tlie lesson of kings. Only this lesson is not always taken to heart. Travellers Club, Loudon, June 27. — My prepara- tions are ended. Lord Derby and Lord Kimberlcy o])en to me the official doors of the Colonies and of Lulia ; the Admiralty introduces me to all the com- manders at their naval stations ; Lord Granville provides me with ])recious letters for his friends. Sir Bartle Frere has given me a whole packet of them, adding some excellent advice and useful information for South Africa, as Sir Henry Eaw- linson does for India. The agents of the Aus- tralasian Colonies and Captain Mills, the Agent- General of Cape Colony, assure a kind welcome for me in those distant lands. My friends envy me this ' trip.' They would hke to be with me, and everyone congi-atulates me on m\ enerfn-. If anything could shake it, it would be these com- ])liments which furnish food for reflection. At the Travellers' I hear they say of me, 'What a plucky B 2 INTRODUCTION old follow lie is ! ' If any harm ])efalls me, they will say, * What an old fool he was ! ' Southampton^ June 28. — This morninjx, at nine o'clock — in other words, at an hour when in Pall Mall the sun is not yet up — the traveller enters his cab, and his old valet de chanibre mounts upon the box. The weather is what it sometimes is in Lon- don in the heart of summer — a fme rain, icy squalls, a bers of the present Administration, and Mr. Graham Bower, a naval officer and the Governors private secretary, and their youn-r and chanuing wives. At tin.es this table is joined by the Prnne Mm.ster, Mr. Scanlen, and other poli^ ticuins of his party. ' In the colonies which are endowed witli a responsible government, and which must be dis- tmgmshed from the Crown colonies, where the representative of the Queen exercises authoritative r« Ma 30 SOUTH AFRICA [part I. power, the Governor is a strictly constitutional ruler. He appoints the Ministers, but he must choose them from the majority of the legislative body. He has the right to dissolve the Elective Chamber, but he abstains as much os possible from so grave a measure. His powers are therefore strictly limited, the more so, as it is the local ministry that appoints to all offices and recom- mends to honours. Nevertheless, respect is paid to his Excellency as the Queen's representative, and in the colonies the Queen is an immense moral power. The sentiment of loyalty, still extremely active, behind which are grouped and sheltered a host of private and public interests, constitutes the strength of the Governor. If he has tact, patience, andsavoirfah^e, notwithstanding the half- republicr*" and wholly democratic character of the constitution, he can sometimes, at critical moments, make his influence prevail. Furthermore, the autonomy enjoyed by the colonies of this class, extensive as it is, has never- theless its limits. If the Governor finds that the conduct of the Ministers is calculated to injure certain Imperial interests, he can, and he is bound to interfere. He refuses his sanction to the Bill which he considers prejudicial ; he exercises his veto and refers the matter to the Queen's Ministers, who decide in the last resort. The position of the ' I ) M CHAP. II.] CAPE TOWN -^I Governor of the Cape, who is also Hicrh Com- missioner for South Africa, is complicated further by questions, as grave as they are delicate, relatincr to the natives. " It is not here at Mr. Pool's dinner-table, at dessert, that I shall try and fathom the complex and manifold duties of these high functionaries. I have said enough to show the importance of the part played in English colonies by the Governor's private secretary, just because he is his organ for everything that cannot be dealt with officially. If this personage is equal to his mission, he enjoys and deserves the confidence of his cliief • he is, above all, an Imperialist, and he is not a party man ; he knows everything and everybody • he is discretion personified, and receives the con- fidence of men in office. To him they impart their aspirations, their grievances, their fears, and he listens to them in a kindly spirit. He neither encourages nor discourages. He knows the oppor- tune moment at which to hint an opinion, to point to an open door, to suggest a compromise. But he will beware of saying anything that might cool his relations with those in power to-day or embroil himself with those in power to-morrow. His eye takes in the whole situation no less than the de- tails which he knows to be important. Nothinrr is too high to elude his careful vigilance, nothin^^'^so ;- 32 SOUTH AFRICA [pari I. insignificant as to be neglected. He knows tliat in politics nothing is insignificant. With his right liand he pours, when needful, some drops of oil on tlie Parliamentary machine ; with his left he puts in motion the wheels of his office. Such is the ideal of the private secretary to a colonial governor, so well realised by Mr. Bower. This wonderful man, in the midst of all these occupations, seems never to be busy. He even finds time to pilot about an old tourist. Good heavens ! what should I do without Mr. Bower and Major Boyle, the aide-de-camp of the Commander-in-Chief? I should be a white atom on the black continent. No one spends a month at Cape Town with- out paying frequent visits to Wyuberg and its environs. The hospitality of its inhabitants and the beauty of the landscape invite you. Table Mountain, as usual, dominates the scene ; only from here you see its southern side. A dense forest clothes its base, fills up the ravines, creeps along the precipices, and ends with the perpen- dicular sides of the wall of rock. At the foot of this mountain a sloping terrace, undulating, un- even, and thickly clothed with ancient oaks and pines brought from Holland, begins to descend gradually to the plain. It is a park, or rather a ) ni CHAP, ri,] CAPE TOWN 3S foi-cst fuiTowod l)j' loner avenues; it is not a town, l)ut it is Wynberg ; that is to say, a collection of houses dotted anionp-st the folia heads of the Clinrch and State, of the leading judges and merchants, together with the consuls and the old Dutch families. As in India and Australia and all the other English colonies, the heads of the large English commercial honses are in the habit of returning, as soon as ])()8sible, to England, leaving the management of the business to their junior partners, who will do the same when the time comes. Those who remain, and never dream of quitting Africa where thev were born, where they live, and where they will die, are the Dutch. I am told that, amon i'rrhani'fi jn„i/,' .AW/A'/' «—t lie ' lioiiourahle yoim.r dauo-litor.' The reason is that the considerations of reli«rion which were paranionnt in the seven- teenth eentury, at rJie Cape were jjrohmcrod far into the ei<.diteenth. Meanwhile we j^et into onr earriai^e and leave tlie town, now ^dven n]) to sermons and hymns. After passinor thron<,di a lon^ avenue of old i)ut('li pines we