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U CONTENTS. lNTBt>miCTION PAQR 1 EASTERN CANADA, PROVINCE OF ONTARIO. .•*,- V Th£ Niagara River Niagara Falls . From Niagara to Toronto The Water Route The Jouniey by Rail Hamilton . Toronto The Muskoka District From Toronto eastward Kingston . The Thousand Islands The St. Lawrence Rapids Ottawa From Ottawa to Montreal 6 18 13 16 18 21 30 35 41 44 46 49 54 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. Province op Quebec Montreal .... From Montreal to St. John From Montreal to Quebec . By the St. Lawrence River By Rail on the South Shore By Rail on the North Quebec .... From Quebec to Lake St. John , Lake St. John . Down the St. Lawrence and up the Saouenav The Saguenay River From Chicoutimi to the Mouth Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity . From Montbbal to the Maritime Provinces: By Rail . . By Steamship round Gaspg .... The Ga8p6 Peninsula 69 61 72 74 74 80 81 82 97 99 108 107 108 110 111 115 117 IV CONTENTS. PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK. ' FAOE The Pbovince or New Bbunswick 122 The ]{e8tiKouchc .... 128 From the Rkwtiooucue to Moncton 187 The Mframlchl 180 Moncton 132 Trips fuom Moncton 188 From Moncton to St. John 134 St. John 188 Up the River St. John 142 Fredericton 148 From Fredericton to Woodstock 158 The Upper St. John .... .... 158 The Grand Falls of the St. John 156 Above the Grand Falls 158 Routes for the Sportsman 160 Up the Tobique by Canoe 166 Bt Rail from Woodstock 181 Canipobello and Grand Manan 184 The Return to St. JohiI 187 From Moncton to Amherst 188 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. Prince Edward Island 108 Charlottetown 1»5 From Charlottetown eastward 107 NOVA SCOTIA. Nova Scotia 200 To PicTou AND Antigonish 208 Cape Breton 207 Through the Bras d'Or Waters to Sydney 308 Baddeck 200 •Sydney 211 LouieBURG 212 From New Glasgow to Truro and Halifax 215 Truro 215 Halifax 218 From Halifax to Briduewater 280 From Bbidgewater to Yarmouth 243 Yarmonth . . . . 245 From Halifax eastward . . - 246 From Halifax to Yarmouth by Rail 247 Windsor 348 From Windsor to Parrsbobo and St. John 250 From Windsor to Grand Pr£ 258 , ' CONTENTS. V t PAGE From Wolfvili.e to Annapolis 8fi0 From Annapolis to Yarmouth 860 NEWFOUNDLAND. / TuE Island op Newfoundland 887 St. John's 288 Trips from St. John's 881 Along the Coast 888 • Conception Bay and the South C()ai>t 834 The French Shore 887 WESTERN VAN An A. Montreal to Ottawa ; a. By the Canadian Pacific Ry jfv • • • • *6fl 6. By the Canadian Atlantic Ry %'\ • • • • '^'' Ottawa r ... 867 Ottawa to Sudbuby 868 Sudbury to Ja.ult Sie. Marie 270 Sudbury To^^rasiPEo 870 North Shore of Lake Superior 871 Manitoba 875 Winnipeg 278 Winnipeg to Reoina 877 AssiNiBoiA 879 Reojna to Prince Albert 881 Saskatchewan 282 Regina to Calgary 283 Alberta 885 Calgary to Donald 288 The Rocky Mountain Park op Canada 280 British Columbia 892 Donald to Vancouver . .297 Vancouver .306 Vancouver to Victoria 807 Victoria 807 The Yukon Gold Fields 808 APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN. General Infornaation .... Lessees of Fishing Rights . Close Seasons for Fishing and Hiintin 8 314 117 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. /^*'< FACINO PAOB Niagara Pallh rnoM Prospect Park 4 The American Falls 8 Luna Fallh and the Kock of Aoes IS In the Thouwand Isles 44 Parliament Buildinos, Ottawa M Timber afloat at the Haw-mills, Ottawa 52 Long Sault Rai'ius {MJ Running Lachine Rapids B8 Fort Chamblt, on the Richelieu River 70 Citaoel at Quebec 87 Cape Gasp£ 119 Gasp6 Residents returning from Church 117 Perc£ Rock 120 The Beach at Paspebiac, and View of the Bay 128 Valley of the Metapedia 126 A Moose Family 146 Curing Fish at Perc4 160 Caribou Migration 108 Cape Pobcupine, and Cape St. George 189 The Steamer Stanley, Prince Edward Island 191 The Oldest House in Prince Edward Island 193 Old Fireplace at Entry Island 197 The Mail-boat at Prince Edward Island 201 On the Road to Baddeck . . .209 LouiSBURO Memorial 215 St. John's, Newfoundland, before the Fire of 1892 .... 229 The Monthly Mail Train from Hall's Bay to Codroy . . .232 Government Houses and Town Pumps at St. Pierre , . . .236 Cape Blomidon 252 Cape Split 254 The Sault Ste. Marie Ship Canal (View of the Locks, looking toward Lake Superior) 270 Vlll LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Bow River Valley from Upper Hot Springs The Great Glacier Indians near New Westminster. facing page . 288 . 299 . 804 MAPS. Plan of Montreal Plan op Toronto , . . . . Plan of (Quebec The GASpfi Peninsula Belle Isle Strait ..... Canadian Salmon Rivers and Gaspe Basin 64 21 8.3 115 233 202 Nepigon River 272 Canadian National Park .290 General Map, Province of Ontario .... .In Pocket. " " Province op Quebec ... . . " " " Maritime Provinces . . . . " " " Northwestern Canada " salmon /^^f'^^^J INTRODUCTION. The dear home of freemen brave and true, And loving honor more than ease or gold. AoNES Maulb Machar. Stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from Lake Erie to the Arctic Ocean, occupying a more spacious territory than the United States and Alaska, lies the great dominion to which the name of Canada now applies, a country whose people are engrossed in the work of na- tion-making. Perhaps nowhere el? 3 in the world, at this present day, are such mighty forces stirring to such gigantic and uncalculated issues. Within a decade there has come about such a change in the spirit of the Canadian people that outside observers, judging from data of ten or fifteen years ago, find themselves pathetically astray in their conclu> sions ; for the name of Canada, almost in a day, has become a name to conjure with, from corner to corner of this confederation which we have molded out of the once scattered and half-antagonistic provinces of British North America. To the tourist whose interest centers chieily in men, in institutions, in ethnological and political problems, this coun- try with a future and not without a significant past offers the strongest possible attractions. To those who look for magnificence or charm of landscape, for an invigorating climate, for the wholesome relish of rod and gun and paddle, this region of the North makes no less active ap- peal. Its deficiencies, of course, are those of all new countries — its fields have not been sown thick with blood and tears, its cities lack the magic of inexhaustible memories, the treasures of a long-established civilization. One city, Quebec, seems old to us, and has gathered about its diadem of ramparts much of *' the light that never was on sea or land " ; but, compared with Old World cities, it is a growth of yesterday. The section of Canada which is here designated as Eastern Canada is in the main coextensive with old Canada and Acadia. The rich and populous section of Ontario which lies between Lakes Erie and Huron is avoided, as belonging rather to the Western than the Eastern tour. Toronto forrcs the most convenient center from which to start west or 1 l<^ fi 2 INTRODUCTION. •I east. The term Eastern Canada includes a large section of Ontario, with the provinces of Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island. Newfoundland, and that part of Labrador belonging to Newfoundland, though not attached to Canada, are touched upon in the following pages, for the convenience of tourists who may wish to visit them. The territory to be described may most conveniently be covered in a round trip, offering abundant choice of routes, and oppor- tunity for attractive side-trips front the most important towns along the way. It is a small territory compared with the rest of the Do- minion, but it contains the bulk of the population, much of the finest scenery, many of the best hunting and fishing resorts, and nearly all the history, tradition, and romance which combine to clothe the name of Canada with something like a savor of antiquity. Here was the center of French power in the New World, and here was fought to an end the contest between France and England. About Quebec and Louisburg, Annapolis and Beausejour, battled the Leopards and the Lilies for the dominion of half a continent. Quebec is still mighty, the gateway to Canada ; but at Louisburg the sheep pasture now where stood but yesterday a great stronghold, the " Dunkirk of America." There broods a spell of mystery and romance about the site of this obliterated city. The magnitude and the heroism of the struggle for New France have been perpetuated for us by Parkman, and the pathos of its termination, as represented in a single episode, by Longfellow. The climate of the St. Lawrence region and the Maritime Prov- inces is in general not unlike that of New England. The climate of Nova Scotia, in particular, is neither so hot in summer nor so cold in winter as that of the neighboring New England States. Summer tourists will need to make such provision against cool evenings and occasional fog as they would make if visiting the seaside resorts of Maine. In northeastern Quebec the summers are often chilly, and down the giant funnel of the Saguenay there blows at times, in mid- summer, a wind which makes the snuggest wraps desirable. As for the fogs that sometimes roll in on the Atlantic coast, one may escape them by a jaunt of a mile or two into the interior, or face them and experience the miracle which they will work on dull or faded complex- ions. It is to the benign ministrations of the fog that the women of the Atlantic seaboard owe the bloom and freshness of their faces. The traveler who is well supplied with American bank-notes will find no difficulty with the currency. American bills are good all over INTRODUCTION. a Canada. i.nerican silver, except in the border communities, is some- times liable to a discount, and in some places may possibly be refused. The silver coinage of Canada is uniform for the whole Dominion, and with this the tourist should keep himself well supplied. Concerning the opportunities for making purchases, a Canadian writer says : " If the tourist be desirous of economizing ingeniously, he will pur- chase himself a suit of clothes in Toronto, Montreal, or Halifax, getting a strong, English-looking material of Australian wool, woven in Can- ada ; and he will save fifty per cent over a similar article purchased in Boston or New York. It is, of course, not ready-made goods that we refer to, but suits made to order. In Halifax, a suit of best Canadian tweed, durable and stylish, may be got from a first-rate tailor for $16 to $20 ; and a faultless dress-suit of best material for $35. In some of the smaller towns, such as Truro and Windsor, in Nova Scotia, skil- ful tailors who have learned their trade abroad, and keep themselves abreast of the fashion, are able, on account of low rents and small taxes, to furnish thoroughly satisfactory suits of fine Canadian tweed, of quiet and correct pattern, for $15. The lover of furs will of course make his (or her) purchases in Toronto or in Quebec city, where the great fur-shops supply these goods in variety and of best quality, at prices quite unheard-of in American cities. Indian work — moccasins, bark- and quill-work, etc. — are usually to be purchased at counters in the chief hotels and on the Saguenay steamers, and at so-called ' Indian bazaars ' in Montreal, Halifax, and St. John. In Quebec such things are sold in the quaint old house wherein the body of Montgomery was laid out." All the baggage of travelers is sul)jected to an examination on passing the borders ; but the customs officials, as a rule, are courteous, and the search is not severe if the traveler shows a disposition to facilitate it. On the round trip from New York or Boston and back, by way of Niagara, Toronto, Montreal, Ottawa, Quebec, Halifax, and St. John, the tourist will find the best of traveling facilities and accommodations. The various railroad and steamboat lines by which he may make the journey are equipped with all modern conveniences ; and the hotels in tha cities above named, as well as at many other places along the route, are first class in every respect. This applies equally well to some of the side-trips which will be mentioned in the following pages ; but on others wilder regions will be traversed, where a similar degree of comfort and luxury is not to be expected. In the summer season round-trip tickets are issued from New York INTRODUCTION. I* P and Boston and other centers ; and detailed information may be ob- tained at the railroad and steamboat agencies. At a roujjh estimate it may be said that the round trip from Bo.«' m or New York by way of Niagara, Toronto, Montreal, Quebec, Sagueiiay, Halifax, and St. John, will cost from f 40 to f 55 in fares, according to choice of routes. The plan of the book, its arrangement and classification of matter, and the system of treatment, are based on the famous Baedeker Hand- books, which are conceded to possess in a pre-eminent degi'ee the grand desiderata of compactness, portability, and facility of consultation. As much aid as possible is afforded to the eye by printing the names of places and objects either in italics, or, where they are of sufficient importance, in large-faced type. The very rapid growth of Western Canada since the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway has led to a demand for information con- cerning that section of the Dominion. The traveler or tourist who comes from abroad mjust now cross the continent. He desires to see the North Shore of Lake Superior and visit the famous fishing-grounds of Lake Nepigon and the beautiful Lake of the Woods region. The new province of Manitoba and its handsome capital of Winnipeg claim attention. Then, after seeing the broad buffalo plains, the great gla- ciers and snowy peaks of the Rockies are full of interest to those who are seeking for the beauties of Nature. The sportsman will desire to pause at some convenient spot, such as the Rocky Mountain Park, and indulge his taste with gun or rod. Finally, there are British Columbia, and Vancouver's Island on the beautiful inland sea of Puget Sound. As a guide or handbook of these and other equally attractive places, a description of Western Canada has been added to this edition of Appletons' Canadian Guide-Book. Niagara Falls from Prospect Park, r *»- APPLETONS' CANADIAN GUIDE-BOOK. FBOVINCE OF ONTABIO. Niagara Falls. Shall not Niagara's migbty voice Innpire to action high ? 'Twere easy such a land to love, Or for her glory die. E. G. Nelson. The tourist who proposes to visit the St. Lawrence region and Maritime Provinces of Canada will do well to travel with the sun, beginning with Ontario and ending with New Brunswick or Nova Scotia. Traveling in this direction, the descent of the St. Lawrence by boot is open to him, with its charm of historic landscapes, and its exciting experiences at the rapids of Long Sault and Lachine. A little north of west from New York or Boston, on the isthmus between Lakes Ontario and Erie lies Niagara, whither all roads lead. Here we reach the frontier of the Maple-Leaf Land, and here our trip may be properly said to begin. Countless pens have striven to depict the sublimities of Niagara, and have only succeeded in proving the hopelessness of the effort. I will not add another to the list of failures. Not only are words inade- quate to convey any just impression of the stupendous cataract, but the eye itself, on first beholding it, quite fails to grasp its magnificence. No one can be said to have seen the Falls who has taken but one look and then passed on. To rightly apprehend them one should halt for some days at Niagara till his eye adjusts itself to the new proportions, and, like the boy that mocked the owls on Windermere, he feels that " the visible scene Has entered unawares into his mind, With all its solemn imagery." Not many years ago the Falls were so hedged about with extortion- ate charges that the tourist, unless a millionaire, was constrained to Il 6 NIAGARA FATX9. grasp his purse-atrings and flee from the spot with the smallest possi- ble delaj'. Now, however, all that is changed, and on the Canadian and American side alike the view of the falls is free. One pays only for such unessential extras as crossing the ferry or visiting The Cave of the Winds behind the cataract. The whole may be done on foot or with the aid of the street-cars which run between the Wlnrlpool and the Falls, and Niagara need be costly to none but those who desire to make it so. By means of the Niagara Falls Park and River Railway (electric), running for a distance of 18| miles from Queenston to Chippewa on the Canadian side, and by the Niagara Falls and Lewiston Railway (electric) on the American side, running from Lewiston to Niagara Falls, a distance of 7 miles, a very satisfactory view of the Falls and the river may be obtained. Cab charges are regulated by law, and hotel rates * are much as elsewhere, varying from $1 to $4 a day. The Falls arc situated on the Niagara River, about 22 miles from Lake Erie and 14 miles from Ontario. This river is the channel by which all the waters of the four great upper lakes flow toward the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and has a total descent of 333 ft., leaving Lake Ontario still 231 ft. above the sea. From the N. E. extremity of Lake Erie the Niagara flows in a N. direction with a swift current for the first 2 miles, and then more gently with a widening current, which divides as a portion passes on each side of Grand Island. As these unite below the island, the stream spreads out to 2 or 3 miles in width, and appears like a quiet lake studded with small, low islands. About 16 miles from Lake Erie the current becomes narrow and begins to de- scend with great velocity. This is the beginning of The Rapids, which continue for about a mile, the waters accomplishing in this dis- tance a fall of 52 ft. The Rapids terminate below in a great cataract, the descent of which is 164 ft. on the American side and 158 ft. on the Canadian. At this point the river, making a curve from W. to N., spreads out to an extreme width of 4,750 ft., embracing Goat and the Three Sister Islands. Goat Island, which extends down to the brink of the cataract, occupies about one fourth of this space, leaving the river on the American side about 1,100 ft. wide, and on the Canadian * The best hotels are— on the American side, the Cataract House, Liternational Hotel , KaltenhaclCs, Prospect House, Spencer' House, and Tower House; on the Canadian side, the Clifton House. The legal tariff for carriages is $2 per hour, but it is usually easy to arrange special terms. All tolls are paid by the traveler. NIAGARA FALLS. T side about double this width. The line along the verge of the Canadian Fall is much longer than the breadth of this portion of the river, by reason of its horseshoe form, the curve extending up the central part of the current. The waters sweeping down the Rapids form a grand curve as they fall clear of the rocky wall into the deep pool at the base. Niagara Falls and Vicinity. In the profound chasm below the fall, the current, contracted in width to less than 1,000 ft., is tossed tumultuously about, and forms great whirlpools and eddies as it is borne along its rapidly descending bed. Dangerous as it appears, the river is here crossed by small row-boats, 8 NIAGARA FALLS. which are reached from the banks above by an inclined railroad, and the Maid of the Mist, a small steamer, makes frequent trips to the edge of the Falls. Fur 7 miles below the Falls the narrow gorge continues, varyin}? in width from 200 to 400 yards. The river then emerges at Lewiston into a lower district, having descended 104 ft. from the foot of the cataract. Here at Lewiston, where ends the gorge, was once the site of the cataract. Instead of plunging into a deep chasm and hiding its grand- eur from all but those who would search it out, the gigantic torrent rolled, in full view of the world, over the lofty line of Queens- ton Heights, the escarpment of the high plateau of the upper lakes. The recession of the Falls to their present point is thus discussed by the Duke of Argyll : FORMER POSITION OF THE FALLS. " A very curioiis question, and one of great scientific interest, arises out of the great difference between the course of the Niagara River above and below the Falls. It has, in my opinion, been much too readily assumed by geologists that rivers have excavated the valleys in which they run. The cutting power of water is very great, but it varies in proportion to the liability of floods, and the wearing power of stones that may be carried along ; much also depends on the position of the rocks over which a river runs. If the stratification present edges which are easily attacked or undermined, even a gentle stream may cut rapidly for itself a deeper bed. On the other hand, when the rocks do not expose any surfaces which are easily assailable, a very large body of water may run over them for ages without being able to scoop out more than a few feet or even a few inches. Accordingly, such is actu- ally the case with the Niagara River in the upper part of its course from Lake Erie to the Falls. In all the ages during which it has run into that course for 15 miles it has not been able to remove more than a few feet of soil or rock. The country is level and the banks are very low, so low that in looking up the bed of the stream the more distant trees on either bank seem to rise out of the water. But suddenly in the middle of the comparatively level country the river enconnters a precipice, and thenceforward for 7 miles runs through a profound cleft or ravine the bottom of which is not less than 300 ft. below the general level of the country. How came that precipice to be there? This would be no puzzle at all if the precipice were joined with a sudden change in the general level of the country on either side of the river — and there is such a change — but it is not at the Falls. It is 7 miles farther on. At the Falls there is no depression in the general level of the banks. Indeed, on the Canadian shore, the land rises very con- siderably just aVjove the Falls. On the American shore it continues at the same elevation. The whole country here, however, is a table-land, I I I* NTA.OARA FALLS. and that table-land has a termination — an edge— over which the river must fall before it can reacli Lake Ontario. Hut that edire does not run acroH8 the country at Niagara F.iMh, but along a line much nearer to Lake Ontario, where it :i a conHpiuuoufi feature in the landscape, and is called Queenston Heights. The natural place, therefore, ho to Hpeak, for the Falls would have been where the river came to that edge, and from that point the river has all the appearance of having cut its way backward in the course of time. Sir Charles Lyell, the eminent geolo- gist, came to the conclusion, from comparison of tlie rate at which the cutting back had been observable within the memory of man, that this cutting back is about one foot in each year. At this rate the river would have taken 35,