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32 X

University of Western Ontario

LIBRARY

LONDON . tIANADA

Class VlO'S^

•ft vx'TG

DATE DUE

WAR12W6;

V\^

: >-..'•

:a n

;. 0}^

CAl'I-; SI'LIT, IKOM UAXTKlrs HARBOUR.

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE
OF THE CONTINENT

HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES OF THE SCENERY AND

LIFE IN NEW BRUNSWICK, NOVA SCOTIA, PRINCE EDWARD

ISLAND, AND ALONG THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE

AND SAGUENAY

KDriKi) HY
GEORGE MUNRO GRANT, D. D.

gur.i-N's i;nivi;i(sitv, kincsti

ILLUSTRATED BY WGOD-ENGRAVINGS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS

BY L. R. O'BRIEN, F. B. SCHELL. HARRY FENN, A. B. FROST,

W. C. FITLER, AND OTHERS

CHICAGO
ALEXANDER BELFORD & CO.

1899

Col-VHIlilli-, iS,^,

liv .\LE.\ANU1:r IlKLKORI) i CO.

\^^'^3

C O N r H N T S

NKVV HkUNSSWlCK

NOVA scon A

I'RINCE KUWAKl) IHI.ANIl

lly I Has. (,. I). KOHKR IS, M. A.

Ily KIIW U, MIKKAV ..ml MRS. A. SIMPSON

lU KKV. k. MURRAY

THK LOWKR ST. l.AWRKNCK AND THK SACUKNAV

Ity J. (I, A. crkk;mton, h.a.

I UMHKRINd

lly I'KlNCll'Al. (IKANT ^m.l A, ILEMlNc;

HACK
9

•^7

In
wi
te
ri(
te
la!

ST. JOHN, I'ROM HOklLANI).

NEW BF(UNSWICK*.

q^HIS is the province of ships, if xvo may tnust tin. device o„ her scutcheon. She
is also the province of pine-trees, of sahnon, „f ,i,,ais, and of hemlock-bark
In anticipation, moreover, she is a province of mines, and would fain supply her sisters
with .ron. and antimony, and silver; she would show them new possibilities in archi-
tecture with her princelv red granite. By „o means poor ,n natural resources, her
r.ches are only to be gathered by that strenuous effort which breeds a sturdy and de-
termmed ruce. And her growth, if slow, has been steady and sure, made up of
lasti.ig bone and sinew.

A glance at the history ol New Brunswick as a separate province will take us
over no long "Chronicles of wasted time"; but, as a part of ancient Acadie. some of

THh

'■ /i-lSTJi/^NMOST KHU;/-

l'AHHAM,\(,il(ih|)v H^y

't ^'"'■■'^ ^" ''^''^^' ""• '•■'> "f France were

^-" tlu. .cy .aters of Bel,.-,s L ^ ^ ^;" "^7^^ '"■ "'••"' ''--a-o.-. Co.in,

'and. h. round tlu-s. coasts. .,„ ^^ '"''"•""^ ^""'■- "^ ^^^--^

^--^ Hpenin, i„ .,, ,,„„^ ^J^^ 7";7" ^"--. '""--in, ...aUows. and wild
spacious hay. iu,.lf one mn,.ni,icc„t harl "' I' '""' '""' "^ "'"''""""^•"t- To a

-obstrncted ,.■ ...-k o. s'ho-d ,, . ', '" '^■^'^' •^''■'■^ '''''"'^ f'-" ■^•-- ^^ shore

anchor therein on a burnin. n^ontid'"!!" "T"' " '" '''"'"""'" ''^^'"^ ^"^^ ^°
"^ Canie.s was only a llv-,, vi^ i/ ^ . "" -.e te.pe.d ,,, „,,, ,„^ ^„^^
;.-vc no further attention. ' ' ' " '^'^' ^'"^' '^' "'*-' f»t.,ro N.hv Hrunswick he

From the north-east corner of fl„
". ™-^y and fa,-,,.„, be,an , , "T" '" ,'"" '■"'■'■'"" ""'""■"■'■»" '"" "'-■

^- -'-^ ..->• ..' '.■'v.n.,..,:': \ ■„:: '3-7-;' ,'■'; ^-^-^--y ».-'h a

mcuh of a Krcat river, called b, ,,,e „ ,■ r. •■ '"" ''°''' '""•'• '"^' ™'"'"1 ■!'«

■■" honcr „, U,e day „, i./.V'", '7 °"»*'"''>'- "-"'« "-"...ned ,l,i, „a.er

-- ... .„„d . ... ..,.,. *nd;r Sa;:;;:t:r::r:;:r ^

OF riih: cox77Xj-:\T

another broad stream ly open befort; tlicm, up which they sailed several miles till
they came to a level, srrassy islaml in mid-river; and this, strange to say, they chose
for the site of tiieir settlement. Hoth river and island they called St. Croix, and here
the little colon)' established itself. Without fire-wood or water, the island to this day
is as desolate as De Monts and his company found it. With its loose, sandy soil, the
scant grass waving m llie winds which swc-pl its shelterless expanse, it was hardly a
tempting place to found a home. Hiii the explorers considered that it was easy of
access by water, capable of tlefense, and well removed from the surrounding mainland,
whose heavy forests were fidl of unknown dang(,'rs. The remaining months of summer
were bright with activity and hojjc. .\ quadrangle of wooden buildings was erected,
with a chapel, and the (iovernor's residence. In spite of the lateness of the season,
grain and vegetables were planted ; and a garden was laid out. after the fashion, faint-
ly, ol those old gardens in France, for which, it may b(\ the colonists were now a
little homesick. But in the b' days of late autumn their situation was dreary

enough : and because their crops had failed to rip(Mi. they were compelled to live
mainly on salt meats, a diet which sjieedily affected their health and spirits. At last
winter came, and the snow, and ihe freezing winds ; such cold as in their own land
they had never learned to dream of. The sleet drove in through the cliinks of their
ill-made buildings. buel was hardl>- to be obtained, and th.e\ shivered over their

j-iit{jiiiifi;'iiifCHiri'iiii

.d..<^mc\:p\

Ir,:

ST. tOHN— B.\CK OV HARHOUR, I.OW TmK.

THE EASTERNMOST RWGE

scanty fires till

Person,, bu, r„„,.f„„ „,„^„„, ^„| _ J - easy p.ey. 0„. „, 30^^ e,y„,

•hey crawled f„„l, ,„ „„ ,„„ ,.,^ '"^'y- When ,„e fi„, „„„ j

^y;n. .intae.,, .„, „„ ,,,., ,„,^;''°" ^ "'ely c„„,d ,„e ... be .tended, ■„.

^■nppcd of all .ha, could U- carried a„ay L f„ ,7'"" "" "'""'' "" "''''"'''""ed.

™-«n. or ,l,c colon,, fcd over ,l,e I , . ' T l "T"' "■™°""^''- -" "- Poor

"M " '5 a fair and well.favonred corner of N ' „
;=""""' -'"e-n. in ,„e <,a,.,, lo„j, ,^, Z.l ''"'/■■''"-■*• ■»is. where .ha. a,.
from ,he island „„„ „a„d, s, Andrefl •■'"™"^ °" ™''' No. a mile

-1 also one of .he faire... ,^tll "" *=" °' ^'"' "™-» .own

-el. of ,he ,r,de .ha. formerly I ! /'"""P;'-^' ""' «.. John has drawn off

w-a. remained has n,„„.l „p river 1 '"-"V" "■ ^"''^ ""•'""• »"" -'h „,
ore S.. Andrews is now more dignified .an ,1/'^ "'" "' ''' """'"^ ^here-
her chief ..eas.,re lies in .he hea ,y of , ^ 1 ':°"' ' =™™-»' P»"" »' view, and
«-en >va.ers. .he nnfailing coolness of h ZZ ' """'' "" """'>■ °' "=' e.ear,
-er. all which ar.rac.ions combined make I," a ""d' 7, *"*""" •"">•' ■" »-
« .i.e word .ha. con.es .0 onr .ho.,,h.s wh „ .7 t'"'""" "--'■"M.ace. Peace
'l-°"S'.. is of sunshine. How .em„L„ .T b.i '" "'""'°™'l' ='"<' "« -«

Siopin, down .0 .he crys.al lip „, "'.J ^-^■- "e 'he Ion,. „„„„, ,„„^ ,^^^„

Andrews, and i. is done hearrily. hy h oy „ '," "' """ """^ '» "» '" St.

elderly women and children. The waves 7 IT '"""' """ ""'' ■""*"=■ and
"P .he sands, and .hey do „„. ij," ^ ^l;: ;:'-"^;'' "<>' a» .hey come lappin,
'" ""Hud^men,. .hose choose .he hce, par. wlo ' '' "" ">' "'''' '" '""■ "nd.

couched in .he sand, wa.ehin.. wi.h col. 1 '. '"""'''"' '" '"= -rm grass or

-ellers. The o.her .hi„,s°which T:t.Z77"°"\ ''" ""^' " «-"'"'-'
Per»nas,on. are .0 go yach.in,. on .he bay and V ' '' "'" '" "'""'« "-h

qnes.i„„able deligh. is lobs.er-.,peari„„ ,„icr h """' . "^ '"°""'""- ^ more

»"h .he yach.i„. ,„ ,„e cool of ".he m „i T' '""""'" '"' "-^'-ion

e«i.eme„. i„ being rowed s.eal.hily „e. 7 t ""^ "" "* '""- "-re is some
■n hand, peers sharply i„,„ „, JZsT, '"""' """■ """■'■= ^'h one, .spear

■evei bo..om a. a dep.l, of some rir i. T: T" I"'' '"^ « -'hor on '.he
•he bo.,le-green prey we are in sea ch „ , ''"" """^"^ -' "eed Inrl.s

»io..r. b„. berrayed by his red pi. . Ko t^ LTr""'' '" '"'™""^'"^' '"
h.ghes. p„ch af.e, „ ,,,, ^,.^^ ™°' »'don, .he exc.emen. reaches i.s

hoa., and have se, abon. an inves " „ " :" '""^'^' ^^ ""-d loose in .he

•"P .0 Monn. Chamcooh a day is ch'osen wl''! TLrrr' b"""^^' ''°' ^^

^ rests on the bay, as far out .^

cheerfulness.
'" a terrible

some eight)
" days came
attended, the

abandoned,
id the poor
'ouse keeper

ere that at-
Not a mile
vick towns,

drawn off
d much of
s- There-
' view, and

'ler clear,
s of sum-
s' Peace
I our next
' beaches,
do in St.
Jens, and
- 'apping
act, and,
grass or

gasping
ut much
A more
bination
is some
?, spear
on the
i lurks
ngs in
les its
in the
or the
out .\S

OF THE CONTINENT 13

the eye can see, and when a propitious wind promises to hold this enemy aloof.
.After a drive through lovely country comes a not too arduous climb through deep
clover and daisied grasses, under the shade of birche.s, and limes, and beech-trees, and
white maples ; then a short and sharp ascent over grey rocks, that keep liberal beds
of scented fern in every ragged hollow, and we come out on the bald, windy summit
of the mountain. Chamcook looks down upon all the neighbouring hills, whicli, to say
the truth, are not very aspiring; and the view is really a magnificent one. Out across
the water, which is populous with white-sailed ships, we see the dark iskud-duster of
'•The Wolves"; and beyond, if the air is very clear, we discern a low, blue line, and
hail it as the Nova Scotia shore. At our feet, in the noon quiet, lies the fair little
town, wrapped in happy and, perhaps, not impossiijje dreams of a splendid future,
which is to come with the building of a railroad from Old Canada to a terminus on
St. Andrews Harbour. In another direction we follow the St. Croix, which widens into
a suggestion of a lake, and contracts again before it reaches St. Stephens, where its
waters become accessory to many a frolicsome and profitable evasion of the disagree-
able myrmidons of the customs.

When one has drunk deep enough of St. Andrews restfulness, and turns his face
and his desires towards St. John, the most pleasant and least orthodox way of going
thither is to persuade some tug-boat captain to accept a passenger. Thus one cheats
the railway, which is more safe tiian swift, or the regular steamer, whicii is tiresomely
conventional, and quite without peculiarities, agreeable or otherwise. But before ship-
ping as a tug-passenger, it is well not to omit a yacht-sail to the Island of Campobello,
which lies far down the bay, near the American shore and the town of Lubec. This
island, some eight miles long, and nowhere more than two in breadth, has become a
popular summer resort, and the site of the modern architectural pomp of the summer-
resort hotel. Nevertheless, the island is a delightful spot, and struggles to maintain
its beauty and simplicity and wholesomeness of life. It has the attraction of being
an island without the discomfort of inaccessibility. Its beaches are superb, its retreats
are secluded and romaiaic, its nights and days are temperate and benign. In the way
of assertive scenery its " lion " is the bluff called " Friar's Head."

In selecting a tug, or getting a tug to select us, we were fortunate enough to find
our lot cast with one which called at St. George on its way to St. John. The nomencla-
ture of this part of the country, by the way, is rigidly saintly, the causes whereof
tradition fails to state. While the tug was kept in uneasy repression beside the wharf at
St. George there was time to see the pretty town, which has in part transferred its faith
from lumber to red granite. A wonderfully picturesque nook is this. The Magagua-
davic River (pronounced " Magadavy ") falls a hundred feet into the harbour through
a chasm not thirty feet wide; on the sides of the gorge are fixed, like eyries, several
powerful saw-mills, from v i:ch the lumber is sluiced into the whirling basin below.

If.

r///: /:.ISV7;RX.U0ST R/fH^F.

' MT CMAMCOOK.

P""". l..nv,.v„, „„ ,„„„„„„„„ ,. ; ; - '^ "" »l.~.n„,, „f „,„ „,,,„, ,_, ,_^,^

■"l.M.„.H„K .Lin,,,,.,,. a,„l „„ ,„.,„,;,"" """"■'"» "' l*'''>- «l»'"l« '«„„ I,,,.

^' K""i.- ,-.., ,1,.. „;>, „, „,,. ,,;„;„"-■"■ """ "■"" •"•' "■• -"j'^i".^ i-vian,.,,,, b,,.

""■ ' o„„„;h„ ■„./;,:::";■';:;"";■:""'-' «■■' •■■' ■'•-= ■->< ^ .i».i„„s ,„

■' "-.V „i,„ „ v,,-„„ ■; ' :;"'"■ ";;>' -"" " "- >■"" -< ■■■■■y, i.ri„i,

i.x.«.». , c„,:,„; .;,„", "■; """■-■ ■""' "^'^•^"' »i.'. » » or „,;>.

""'I ->-■ .■,.,.1 „„„„ ,, ,,„,„ ,„„„,,„ , , "' "" '«"'"■« ^'l"" S"- ,.„ f„„„ above.

■"^ ■■ ...akin, „, ,,„„„% "; ■'"'[ "" *■' "■™ -^^» -ln„„„„,, „,„ ,,„„'

- "' »■ „„.,-. an,; , ,V7"'."^' ■*»■" ■■' •"■• l-M. W,. »ai, Co.e „„„„

«" y W,.„. „„„,abi,. , , ^^ " '"■'" ""'■'*"»■ -^ '-" "f ^.».-lo„.i„,

- »il-.'y U a„„ „;,l ,'."■'/'"" ;■"";■■' "'»"""'■"='' '- "•^- K-. T„ee

... (- .,n. .,„ >l„. .b,W„« »„rfaco and .,„,,„,„„abl= eidcs

OF 77//: (OVZ/X/^X /•

of Fundy, but to-day a li-lit lan.l-l.rccze holds it at a distance, and shows th<. whoic city
I.iled most picturesquely l.cforc us. Huilt on a sf-e,. an,l rock\- p.^ninsula, with lofti.r
heiglits behind as a settin- cn.uned will, uiany spires, and opened up by ohrnpses nl
wide, steep, busy streets, it comes tonelher with admirable effect ^- as the artist say^
■•composes" excellently. .St. J„hn contains n., white buildin,i.rs. All is orayston..
red-JMick, or brown-painted wood. ---this brown a local an,l characteristic tiiU, not In
any way to l)e departed from. 'I'his colourin- under a i,road sun and dear sky. i^
rich and solid ; but when the fo- roils in on th<. cit) . and hanys for days toj^eth.r.
the jrloom becomes profotmd. Nor is it uiade the less dismal by the n.currenc; at
intervals of a low, sepulchral, booming sound, from nowhere in particular, which comes
strugglincr through the fog as if from a damp throat. The inhabitants, however, hav..
no grudge against their fog, which in all probability is responsible for the peach-bloom
complexions with which the city's daughters are so daintily endowed. If this be the
case, even we can forgive the fog ; nevertheless slicIi a da)- as this, when sight-seeing
is our object, it is not to be lightly valued. As we steam up the busy harbour the
scene is very lively. Large and small craft are everywhere. ,,t anchor imder ban-
poles, flifting across our way
under white or ocher-coloured
canvas, or lying three and
four deep along the wharves.
Yachts are careening before
the racing breeze, broad-bowed
stub-nosed wood-boats ])lough
their way unbending, tireless
little red and white tugs rush
hither and thither, a huge
black scow on each arm, as
it were, and at the head of
the harbour, where shrill .saw-
mills occupy all the available
ground by the water's cd\re.
the lofty shores curve round
to the Carleton side, enclo.s-
ing the forest of masts and
yards. There, too, under the
guns of Fort Howe, lies the

C/uirybdis at anchor. Since

the inestimable boon of her presence has been confert

WHAKF \\ sr. .\.\'i)Ki;ws.

-(Ml U

sleep unharassed by distpiietude. They rise

pon .St.

the

citizens

HI the morning and look out with con-

Tllli /■..isriiRXMosT RIDGE

ficlent pride to the spot where our vo.n,. navy rides .t n„ I

authority that St. Join, r .nks llfth ' ^ ' ^* " '"'^ °" g°°d

c„ J:::;:::: r„z^.:: ;--,;-- ... .. . ... . _,, „,,

r . lo,^. iKrc ,s ., seme l,i,„||,, ,„ ,,„ f„ , „, ,

«-,rd nn,l ghcMit, 1„ „„. „„■„ „„,„. , , """""■ The vessels are

siJe on „.e lea<lo„.c„l„,„x..l s,i,„„ Tl,.. » I"' ^ """ °' '"""''•*' "' "-

-o„,„, ,a,,„„„He., „„a ,„.,.. ,;erj;;;r, ;"";„:":' *r:^' "■= - -'» -=

from a drain that .■„„„i,, |,,,,. ,, , ' '" "'"'""» ^'"Pe of water

of wheels, a„., th,. u, "' : V"'"" ""■ ""'"' ""^ '"""• ''>= "oise

fron, oar sigh,. '™""'-' """""S"'-^ 'vhich the fog „as veiled

Before investitratiri"- the rif\' ,f tu. ■

... " "" "^> *'' '"^ present, let us trlance nt tl,» v -

A history belongs to the site ml n ■ M , , '^^^ P^^^-

old Acain an^is of "-od "^'^'''^-"•'^"-' ^^ ^'- Jo'". Revertin, to the

at St. Croix, we hnj a ^eZ .;:;"" "■^^"'"''^■^ ''''' ^''^ '^ '"'--^'^ ^^''-e

St John Here tl ■ """ '''"""'''"'' '"^ '''"^ ^^ ^'^ --"^ of the

3t. jolin. Here the prospect ,s more cheerin.r the hri.r'itn,.. f .

ance. But treachery and violence do their .o; d if '" ^""■■""-

r»„ »i . r . "oik, and the gloom acra n fali<!

dependants. There were oeace „le„, "^ °"'='' '"' ''"'"'"" «"<'

on the streteh of ,.:;;:::;.;:'::';: z::z::\r" : •" "='""■■" '-

a. eaeh low-.ide ,o„, ranges of stake-net ,iZ Jo „:" 'T' '""' ""''

and the surr„„„di„, Torests swar.ed with -a B t a T r ,'" ""'""' '

lay in tile possession of a „„™,„ • " ''"=' S"'"' '""""'

for a nian'of l,is tan „ Z^^^: "T "I ''"' ''"" ^" ^" '•'>•' '"= "' ^"'
peri..: and losing I.er. I'.e ,0" io' ' tTe 'Z^^ is 7\ '""'t" '" '"'' ^"^

.0 .ain. ,t ,ras .hr„„g„ the vindie.i.e ,e lo^ ^ a t "'l T\''' "^"'^

Acn<l,c, D' Aninav Charnis,,. tint n„ tro.her-lieutenant in

«™.l,p„.ed anthorit, over ^^ f : .I TlZ^tJ:'' TT ■ """""^
possessions while his hated .ivd wn ' Cha.n.say had no joy in his

-....wed.i,ro.,gi,the';i::.:— rre^jriL::

It is said on good
cities of the world.

re us crowded with

g expanse of black

is magnificent ; it

'y the dark foliage

Jrick buildings, all

J to the best ad-

>, at low tide, and

The vessels are

r leaning to one

the wet sails are

escape of water

1 lium, the noise

2 fog has veiled

the city's past,
'■^everting to the
miserable failure
he mouth of the

longer cont-'nu-
gain falls,
tt is now called

This fort com-
greater part of
is retainers and
e well-built fort
ame thing still,

in abundance;
-f good fortune
ys the fit wife
:ed to his pros-
-ts had availed
er-lieutenant in
ects. Holding
no joy in hi<j
ving the rich
f his strength

OF run CONTINENT

^^imfm^-»0^ glgg_^^, ,

A-L

ifi ylVii. Ji..

FRIAR'S UKAD,
CAMFOBELLO ISLAND.

at the Court of France, he
was soon in open hostilities
against La Tour in Acadie,
and intriguing against him at
Versailles. As a result, La
Tour was charged with treason,
and Charnisay was authorized
to seize and hold him for trial.
But La Tour was behind his
He mocked at the royal mandates
of Rochclle came promptly to his

walls, and secure in the justice of his cause.
Hiid made ready for a struggle. The city

iissiHtiince, while Charnisay drew reinforce-ments from Paris. In the spring of 1643
Charni.say suddenly, with a large force, blockaded the mouth of the St. John. Sup-
plies were low in the fort, and a ship was daily e.xpected from Rochelle. When this
arrived it was signaled to keep at a safe distance; and one clou

idy

a boat

////:■ /'..I.SVAA'.y.J/O.W Rin(;H

slii)ijccl silently out of the liail)()iir upon ilu' cblvtiilc. Invisible in the gloom along
the Carlcton slion-. and hcncatli liic rock) heights of Paitridirc Island, it passed under
the very guns of the Ijlockadiii;; sjiips, aiul La Tour and his wife were off for Boston
Ml tiif Rocli(.-llc vessel. The ni'xt development of the situation was the appearance of
l.a Tour in the harbour, at the head of fiv<! Xew Ivngland ships; and Charniray was
driven across tile l)ay to Port Royal, and sharply punished on Ids own ground. Again
he e.ssayed the attack, closely investing I'"ort La 'I'our in the hope of starving its dr-
fenders into submission. Hut from two spies, who. in the disguise of friars, had
succeeded in penetrating the fort, only to be unmasked by Lady La Tour and con-
tiMnptuously dismissed unpunished, he learned that La Tour was absent, and that the
l)nst was under command of his wife. Ivxpecting an easy and speedy victory, he
straightway ordered an assault, but was met unflinchingly by Lady La Tour at the head
of the garrison, and obliged to draw off, writhing with shame. Hut La Tour could
not always be at home to guard his own. While he was away on a trading expedi-
tion his enemy returned, and found the garrison weak. l-'or three days his assaults
were repulsed, but through the treachery of a sentry he at last gained an entrance,
l-.ven then the brave woman did not yield, but met him so intrepidly at the head of
her faithful handful that the dastard offered honourable terms of capitulation. She
accepted th(?m, to save the lives of her brave followers. Hut no sooner had th<'
articles b(;en signed, and the garrison laid down their arms, than Charniray hanged
every man of them but one, whom he forced to act as executioner of his comrades.
.And Lady La Tour he led to the gallows with a halter round her neck, and com-
pelled her to witness the execution. Her home destroyed, h<;r husband ruined and in
exile, and the horrible fate of her followers ever present in her memory, Lady L.i
Tour's health gave way, and she died within a few inonths.

After these things, the fort at the .St. John's mouth, as well as that which had
been established farther up the river, on the (iemsec, passed successively into the
hands of many masters with the changeful fortunes of war, but remained a mere trad-
mg-post, and attracted no permanent settlement. .Meanwhile, over other portions of
the country, but chiefly along the north shore, sprang \\\\ gratlually a very meagre
population of i'rench and half-breeds. I'or years after the country had fallen into the
hands of I-lngland, no Hritish subject could safely make it his home, by reason of th<-
hostility of the Acidians and their Indian allies. Not until 1766 was the first Knglish
settlement established on the St. John River. This consisted of a number of families
from Massachusetts, who built .1 fort on the mouth of the Oromocto, about twehe
miles below the point where now stands I'redericton. Six years before this, Mr. James
Simonds had attempted to establish a fisherv on the St. lohn Harbour, but had lieen
driv(.'n away b\- the enmity of the nativiis. V>w the 16th of April. 1764, however, accom-
panied by Mr. James White and Cajitain Peabody, with a party of fishermen, he landed

jT;Ioom alonp
passed under
ff for Boston
:ippearancf of
Jharniray was
ound. Again
Irving its ^\t■-
if friars, iiad
our and con-
and that iIk
y victory, lie
■ at the head
i Tour could
iding expedi-
his assaults
an entrance,
the head of
ilation. She
ner had the
niray hanyed
lis comrades,
ck, and coni-
uined and in
ry. Lady l.,i

OF /■///■: (■(\v/7x/:.yr

HKACON LIGHT. ST. JOHN, ..AT LOW .\ND HKiU IIDK,

t whicii iiatl
ely into the
a mere trad-
portions of
very meagre
Hen into tiie
:ason of the
first Englisli
r of faniiUfs
ibout tweK'f
s, Mr. Janits
lut had Ixi n
ever, acconi-
n, he landed

on the site of the present city of St. Jolin, where he soon succeeded in developing a
profitable trade. A few small houses were roughly put together among the woods and
rocks, at the foot of what is now I'ort Howe Hill. At length broke out the American
War of Independence, and a time of peril and loss ensued for the tiny colony. But
for this came ample compensation at the close of the war, which may well he called
the mother of New Firunswick. On the i8th of Ma\-, 1783, took place the "Landing
of the Loyalists," which meant the founding of St. John, and within a year the sepa-
ration of New Brunswick from Nova Scotia anil its erection into a separate province.
The landing took place in the gray of the morning; there were no signs of life among
the chill rocks and sombre firs of the peninsula, save where, at the back of the har-
bour, the handful of fishermen's shanties huddled together; and the prospect was not
cheerfid. But these exiles were men of fibre, of strength and steadfastness, who had
so strenuously striven in defence of their cause that when the cause was lost they had no
leniency to expect from the vict We may thinl- hose most truly loyal whose loy-

////:' /:•. lS/7:A'XJ/(,sr RJlH.H

alty .s .l,...>t., .. u,.,,. own ..,„u.-ys s.-vi... ,.u. lu.w.-v.r tlu. object .nay di.Tc.- the
sentnnnu ,s always ih.- sanu,. fruitlul ,„„il„.r of l,croic action.

"""1 l>""i lli<- l..v,-ly l,„„l Ihal K.uc them hirll,.

* » » •

Our Kr.ui.Uirrs |,,„m-,|, ,, hr.ur, .IwcrmiiuMl Land,
nnvfii liy li.ir.l Kai,---
As nic-ii wfic (liufii (if olil,
H'liiiM' slDiy liath hrcri tulcl
In lofiy epic strain—
I'o plain, with tMil anil p.iin,
Upon ,1 .lisi,,nt sl,„rc, an,| in a str.ingf, wild land,
A new and glorious State,"

Ac. ose. l>y th,: su.ft .na.ic of energy and ..Tort, amon, the n.isty Leaches and
h..h, hald htlls, W,tl, jt.st pnd.. St. John has been celebrating, with son, and
V^. and illun,ination. and f.-ee-iutnded hospitahty. the hundredti,' anniversary^^f her

Tlu. nt.,.s,i„, of opulent waters, ...arded snrely fro. even the crneiiest droughts by
u,o, ve^ . U,e fo„ St. John has fonnd her enen,y in .i.-e. On Janna^ J.,
.^.7. she snfTered frotn a terrible eon.la.ration. which destroyed over a Inntdred hols
and shops, nearly a thin, of the bttsiness portion of the city. Then followed, at inter-
val. „,any n..n^ ,.r less disastrons lires. ..„. inhnitely the ntost drea.lf.d was that which
'-^ ^-:- y^--^^^ )^^^' ^^^^- ^^::. In this at least a third of the whole city
- ■"^nd.tated. X,ne hottrs sn.heed for the swallowi., of sixteen h.n.dred and twe.v

"""^^"\';V"''^^"'-"^- '■'>•• -^> '-■■' i-. .>.a.e , thre.^ separate parts at once.
A stton, .,nd fanned .„e llan,,.. The roeKs held and nndtiplied the fnrions heat till

1:.:^"^ t '^ ' '"■"^'"^'■' '■'"' ""^ '""^' — — '- "f ^-nit. crumbled to

.■.n,e,,,, away swiftly ,.,. ,,.,.,,_ Vhe stnol. was votnited np to the tops

r ; "^ '": '■' '"■ ^"-^'-^ '-■ -n- ships in the harbonr were .any of

'':"\'"'''^'"' '^'"•" ^'"■>- ' '' -'■"■ ^■■'- '■'<-■ ."oorin,s. Coals and hot ashes were

"'":*' ^''""; '"■ ''''''■' ■""- '''"""• •" '^->--i-n. ci,hty-fonr ndles distant, the skv
" "; ^"" ■'^^'^ ^^-^'^ '''- ^' -'" '' ''- -I'l- --1 'layl>n.ak. When the llantes died
<- alon, the water's e.l.e, all the city sonth of Kin. Street had ,one down. In a
tlay or two the centres of the streets n.,! tlw

. "'"'^^ ■""! H"^ "l'<'n s.piares were cool ; and as one

walked, ankle-dcen m the soft wUit,^ ■ ' . i

II "1'. solt, uhtte .. ...es, at early mornin.>;, th,. sa-ne was one of

most we,r., and desolate grandeur. The snn shone ovc:r the da.din, ripples of the
bay over the s,,.,. and soandless spaces whici, had been streets, and against the
.nclottded blue the th.n sn,oke-wfeaths risin, frotn the cellars and tnasses of "rnin took

may dillcr the

ty l)oachcs and
ith .son!,^ and
ivorsary of her

(^r Tin- COXTIMiXT

Mm-'

::./

St droughts by
January 14th,
undred houses
nved, at inter-
as tliat which
;he wliole city
III and twelve
parts at once,
rious heat till
e crumbled to
]) to the tops
:,^es, fornu!(I a
ivere many of
)t ashes were
itant, the sky
; flames died
down. In a
and as one
was one of
ipples of the
aijainst the
)f ruin took

■mM

r *v.

•Rllfe^J

,.,J-^-?;,.,(^^ »f

MAUKI I SI.U', sr, JOHN, AT LOW HUE

a sot, «fr™„ ™l„„. „,., , ,„„„, ,„ ,^^,^ ,^„ _^|_ ^^

was broken by the cra-^h of ^nm,. ,„ 1 , ^'U'uit

; nil- ui.iMi 01 .soiiii; niasonrv that in lir.M \t.-..\( .1 1 1

„r ., ^ . , , - '^"•"- "'"' "*l'i itselt up tlirou'di the stress

of he tnal and now topp-I .■elu..,an.lv to its fall ,„ the centre ..f th.
in the open country abou

ry about tlie city, wre hundreds of tents and

s(|i;ar('s, and

sorr)- cabins, whereir

THM /• iSUiRXMOST HIIH,H

''''•WW^''I ■' >url ul -'il|<-n tlipuih 1(1(1 in ^.jmi . I i

ami Oasfc* rh.s,. ,„ u-w, tcHl-hrcl that s..,,.. t,vasu,vs hul h, .., ,•

Hum l)\ il,c .■lulcav.Mii ,,l uiilinu ^()lllnte(•rs ()„,l •.,■,,
, , ^ ^<"mue(r>,. Un th* site ol (tnc iso .uci |i,iiM,i v.i,,h,. ,i, .

./^.., .„„„.,,„„,. „„,,,„ , „ , „, „ ^,„.,. ,; ;, '

:r ":v « ■ '"■ -- ■^"^ « »"'■ •'■"«'" .:.„,.:,

'"•'»>^' n Im(MI. was icsiirrcctcil. St lohn r !>,. i

-ilamity, and ,... fn.„, h.^ fall with a„ ..„-,•,> an.l vitality th ,. »

til-,. Ivwl i> I ■ I • Mi.iiii\ thai u,.,,. iiiarv).' bus. All

'"■" •^•"' •" ■•' '-' — was ,...huih w,th ad.U.cl .sple„cl.,a.. a.t.l th.. ,.... .itv will ..„
an. .on. than lavo.-al.l, i., its a.hit....... with cities .nan, .„„.. .ts st. ^ Z

•"■. :"' ^" •"•"■'' '" "'■•■ '-imal lock... .,. ,.„, ,,,,.,,,^ ,„. ^,,,,,^ J' •

n'mnulns of that, unVvously s,a,.onn, blow. ""''

What appears to the visitor as only one .itv .■..■.IK

'iM\ ()n( cit\ n-aiij consists ol two, connLcled !■■

;' "; " "■■■'■'^'' ""'"' ""■ ~ ■' • V '-in,., ,■„.... ,„,„ , ,, ,„„„ , ; ,„^

nit throujrh the solid Devonian rock « hi, h ,o,. i i"< trcas arc

'•"«■ one's whole time in St John ,nn.. I '

'« ■ --- n..... „,„. ,:„: ' ::;;;:;: ,::■-'"; .--"'^

"■'■ '™7'7' "■""•■■ "' ^■»"»''» ■■' ■^'- J - is pro,,,,,,,, ,.„„;,„„,■,„ ,..;:„'

"'".I.- I-".-. II..".. Hill, is ,.,rm„,„u.-,l l„ ., |«,,„ „, „„ , "'

'"" '"'" "'■ '" ■•^'^•" "'■" ....'> i.. ........rcJ crovic,.. ,„, ,„ ,.„„,,.

^ : ■^" '"■, "■'■ » ■' •" ""■ ■..'. -i.. I.ill-«ra»,,, ,.>„,„ „ ,. :

7'"" '" ■",: "' ""■ ""™ '■■-'" - .- ..i..e.i I,,. „„. .,v s;,;:; ;;

,.:..::: ; i ,:"::,; .""■ ;^-'- :■^'«'■■ '^-^ or ..,„. h.«i„„ „

Ol tne l)usy va 'e^ s ■ vnt wh r h lir.i . ■ . i i mwu.-,

th^ i„. 1 • , r, ., ' ^'^^^ '"^ roarinj; tormina station of

he „™l„„„, ,<„,„.,„,. ,i„„ J„r,„,-» Hill. ..„„ i,s «o., ., „, ,,,„„ ,„„,i„„ „

C'/'' /'///;• ( OXV/.V/iA/'

»H

I'll I'ilfs <»f liultlcs
ncrcd (iiK ol ihc
<l lii|luir store, tUr
n poking', wiili ,i
whenever ;im nr|,
'j<ral aitl in h,r

■ iiiiirvflloiis. All
LM (ity will com-
s si/c. liiit even

ff'cis ui<) vivid

v<>. connected Ity

■ jiilin and I'on-
t the streets arc
the neijfjibourinjf

'■'vcl, but as a
i>\vn liill. It is,

and I'xquisiteiy
■'t. John pnrticn-
i)alanceil hy the
ry exercise. In

hy two |)osse.s-

a pocket cork-

il hills, chief of
omniandinp the
I <lips is there
i> one of these

■ l'^'- city and

■ b i'n. From
of light, which
anil movement
air. In sharp

vhich lie, Mack
lose rijrtrinjr is
ost tumultuous
nal station of
Us. Ieadin<j to
M's .i,^Ieam like

'■■'■'i^i

•^ J'.

SALMON WI-IUS. ST. lOHN HAKBOC'R.

red stars, and the massive walls of the hospital, witii two or thr( hi;^di-steeplcd
churches, loom heavily against the pale sky, touched with white light wherever a vane
or metallic roof corner catches and throws back the Hooding brightness. Yet farther
to the left lie the unligiued expanses of the marshes, with a far-ol gleam from
(Jourtenay Bay's indolent waters.

Hardly appreciated by the inhabitants, yet perhaps the chief attractions which St.
John has to offer the artist, are the quaint, picturesque, dilapidated "bits" to be found
about the back of the harbour at low tide. Small houses and sneds of the oddest
shape are built out from the face of the rocks, ported above reach of high tide by

gaunt piles, rickety with age and shaggy with long, brown sea-weeds. In other places

<y».

THE EASTERNMOST NUHiH

V .'" '" ^'"■■^' '^ -'^-' "PO". and b..il. f..„ ., ,. ^

all pos.t,o„s and in adnurable disorder with rc-fus. ' r'""'"'' "" ■''■''■^' P""' '"

an.l barrds; .i., ,,...., ,.,, ,,^,„^,^ ^^ ^^ " ^ '"- al..,.. and under, and boat.

;•-;■" P- and roo. tree. S.etc.L.;:^ ;:'■::, :'' ^T':- ^'^ "^PPi".
'-''. '" tile absence o.f tlie /isl, ,„,|<c. . in • ', ^'^'' P'''^'^"'''"^ ^^^ drying-

could not be improved. „.re one is in ' .„ "T""' '''"'■' ""' ^'^'^'""^ ^'^^ ''-»

-'^' corners; the .ar..,u.ed water ,1J^.Z'L ^^""'' ," '""^' ^^ ^^^^^ and
0^ sea-weed. and iiashin, its ,ay spLies . b t. r;: """ ""''^' "-'"^ ^'^^ '--
form. Down fro. tlie crest of tbe rock bv ' '"'"'•' ''"''^'■^ ^^ ^'^ P'^t"

footed and bare-headed, ,reetin, o.r ad.ir.^'o ul^ "'TT ^""'^^ ^ ^'^'^ ^-^-
we ga.e. she vanishes within the door of oL th "■" '"''^'"^^- ^^^" '''■^

later on the roof of another, where she proceeds to ^ '"'"' '" ""^'^"'"' ^ "^°"--

When one makes .p his n.ind to fo sals ol ' T '""""" °" '° ^^^•
or Maritiniers the .-Celestial- cit, he had t^ ^' '\ "--l-icton. in the ,an,..a,e
on.er wa^-. b. what matters that to the st,:::^ Jl r"!; '''; '^' "^ -"- '"^
loss than s.xty miles; by river it is ei<duv f , ■' ''•"' '° '^'"eclericton is

a-^' all so fair that one'co.d wil ^^^ '^ "" '''- ^"^"'>'-^-^ ^^ each

passengers at Indiantown. about three miles from"VTT' '''!'" ^'""""' '^"^^ '" ^^^
f-.^'n is usually put aboard at one of the c u , ^ '""' •""'"■ "'^^ ^•■^"^- The

'1- waits till the tide serves to pass tl' Ml :''^' '''''' ''" ^'""^' ^^^ "^ boat
tl- man of the pencil, we classed ourselves .^ 't' ." '^"■'""""' '^t th- instigation of
at the comfortless hour of four, just on the "l 'r ,' " "'"'"'"*''"'' "^ ^"^"^ ^harf
''^-".'^ the falls. This cataract is :;•,;!::/: "^''^^•^' ''" ''-'■ ''- - ^° "P
^« --'^ .ettin, up at daybreak to become ..J:J:;::, T""' ^'"' '''''''''■ '^
amon^ waterfalls in bein^ reversible At one J ' " ^'"'"'^ ''''""^' ^lone

'--^ '^ i^ ralhn, in the other di.ctil!: Z:Z ^ ' " ""■'"^^'""' '" '' ^-^•

course, to settle the matter ilnallv, and 'behold H ■"" '"""""''"■'^' '■"" '■^^'"'•"' ^^
Vou look down from the suspension-brid 'e a I" '^ "" " ^'"'•^^ "^ ^ fall.

surges assaultin,g the ,n-av walls of the\;oU "' ' """"'''^^ """^''^ "^ '"^cl

and there with gently wheeling foam-bubbl^ ^ Th'" "" " '''""' ""■'"'"' "'^'^'^"^ '--
away swiftly. And it is not strange that vess I ' '"T'' " '"" "''"'""-•>- '' Passes
-^ '^^^;- -.ent of mid-tide. Ti: .^L : l": l:!" ^^ ^ '^ ^^ ^^ catch
■■^ nearly 500 miles ion.,, an.l four or five in 1 , "'"'" ' •'"'"' '''■^■-■' ^^'>'ch

^'^>'' - '»i^ point .inds its wav to t^^ Z Z T '' ' " ^^^^^^ above the

throws across, spanned by . susp..nsion-bricir ' ^[^"' T '": ' '"""'" '' ^^"-

'-bour. the accumulated river-waters fdl ' , "" """•'■''""-'- emptied the

«lnice-.ate. As th- tide return, th- fu,,, .,/',' " ''''''"" '"' ""•-^'' a mi.hty

K-'nai!y ch,.k.d. .1, . ,.,,, ;, ,.^^.,,„; ;;^ ;-;;i- ;■• .11^.1..,,.,, ,,, ,,,... .^

-..ns while the antagonists take a breathin.. sp-.ce H '""" ^'""' '"^•' ^'"'-

- '•''• "'" '"Oil (he tremendous Fundy

OF THE CONTINENT

"n stilts, piled i„
under, and boats,
ircd sails flappinjr
tforms for drying
lulling- place that
mi siinsliine and
■ivincr the tresses
rils jf the plat-
nies a girl, bare-
^'liter. Even as
pear a moment
ts out to dry.
ni the languagf;
of course, the
I'Vedericton is
>'-four are each
'■ takes in her
lie falls. The
■'nil the boat
instigation of
North Wharf
am to go up
cataracts. It
' almost alone
ion, in a Icvc
ou return, of
^' of a fall,
milt of mad
flecked here
■y ; it passes
eek to catch
'"^iver. which
^ above the
'i'' of stone-
emptied the
1 a mighty
lie river is
. and fjuiet
ous Fundv

tide .verpowers the river, bears it down, and roars triumphing through to brim the
upper l)asin. Before it can accomplish much in tliis direction, however, its retreat is
ordered, and the recovering river presses heavily on its rear. This battle is f(>u<dn
twice every day; and the river is so far successful that it holds its freedom, and can
never be subjugated into a tidal river with drowned shores and banks of ooze. The

SUSI'IiNSlON-BUmOK, ST. JOHN, AT LOW TUJE.

St. John is able to guard its narrow ppss. \V<Te the gate to i,e thrown wi<!e open, as
are those of other rivers, the barbarous hordes of the tide would overwhelm miles on
miles of the low-lying centre of New Brunswick.

Soon after we embarked the boat cast off, to make the passage of the falls, and then
waited at Indianlnum till nine oVlork for passengers. Exquisitely fair appeared the sleep-
ing city as we drew off from tlu^ wharf, and the scene came out broadly before our eyes.
The day broke in saffron and cool pink b-'hiud roof and spire, and sleep streets and
piled-up w.-dls. Coils of mist got up sluggishly as we ploughed through the eddying
waters. As we n.'ared tlu.- suspension-bridge the cliffs tow.Mvd higher and high(>r above
the saw-mills fringing their base. The mills were waking into shrill life as we steamed

-6

"=-:"-.:^:;::':X:;,:;;;::::;::;«--™.-..^

' " '"-".^^"""n,^' to open, an.l low

icciirately. We
■ white surges

"itS- .'

SftS-M)

«r^

"^'■"'^'<-' TON. ,,,„ ■,„, „v,.K,

■^J^

Hvr,. Icapinu up and sinkin,^. T

passage

"■'■'"-• ^-' '-' '^' .1. :o,.„ ;: 7'^ ;^;" -^^^^ """--., an. .i.h a ,n,„nv

"""' '^^'- "''"'• - '...Id o,;,. ,„,,,„, ;;„; • ""' 7^" ^^^■'-'•'"^ --hi toward Indbn-
'^^■"'"^ ^--'-- "^ nnn„n..n, da,-,. ....„;?:: I" l"' "'" '""'''^^^' ^ "'^'--' that the

"7^"'"^ ^--'-■- "^ -.n„...n, da,.,. ..., : I'"":'' ""■ '''^'^- ^ --' that the

advertiser. ,i,t„v ,„,,„ ,.,„ ,,„^ ,,_ -" -" ^iosed about ns .as dehied ., the

'•-'""^ -''■ -■•- ,.n,dai„,ed .,.. .„,,„„:, ,, "' '-"™'o— L and crude white, and
-'■ver Hes the power „. |..,,„, .„,,, ^..,„^, ..'"'^ ;' ^•■':'-" '"■ ^'-^-.x In whose hands
"- "- F-owe,. ,.. ....e,,ed. '"''^'"' "'" ^'--^ "^ '^t. John should .eo to it

^^ tl"' Ix.al su-in.r.s oft Ir l

■,""■ f^---.- - ...V i.n,w,,',',"'„'":,"',';r'„'" ','""'""""" ""' ''""'- "'■ "'"'"si.
':■""■"■'>■ ' ■ I., ,; r, ;; "„ ™- '"■■ "-■--• - :» ..<-.. „.„

"■ ■'^'' I"'"' ""■«>■ '.« ,,l,„v,. ,,, ;„ "" " "'■'» """ .--».l .-.11 .1,. .-oa,. .,.„

■" 'l-^i.- «ra„i,i, ,„„„, ,,,,„^, ;:■ "H -.1 a. .l,i» ,,l.,, ,„„., „,, ,„,ij ,,.„^

OF run CON J'IMiX r

iiite accurately. We
"I low, whit,, surges

'^1^

'I with a mighty
L' iindcr-currcnts
1 toward ladian-
noticcd that the
s delilcd by the
rude white, and
fn whose hands
liould see to it

''^ "!' through
'''■'It outlet of
is said, hatl
lands west of
I lie present
■aring asunder
he coast west
tile solid hills
iiiiiels of the

■>^<r^;- ■ ■ «='.,;,.,.,,. ^i*i-A S?.

'^' I'

THE EASTEA'.VA/OST RIDGE

river. There ic -» f.-^ r^-

* .-^.,. r ::::-:: .rr - - r ^^'-^ - -- -

A vanafon of M,e story is that a great leav " ' -'^'"^ '° '''^^^" ^^-•-' i^"

"-«"t b..i,t a da. across the otulet. 11 7^Tl "'°" '" ^^"'- '^"^ ''" °-

a"<l drowning the people. Even nou wh ' " ^""'"'^^ '""'^ '^'^^^ ^^^ --sh.

^-"ets, it finds -the Narrows ■erTnsffir ^'^'^^ ' ■^^^•°"^^" -■''' '^^ ^P^n.

'he intervales. "' *"""^"^"^ ^ - -i^. and is driven back upon

Here and tliere. as we passed, fron, niches far ud in M
P'c- we noticed s.dden puffs of white smoke f , --y-coloured naked preci-

-d then by the rattle J falling ro Is t ^ T '" ^ ■^^^°"' "^ '"'^ '^^ "^ """ ^--
walls drew apart before .s. anc we st a , , """" ^'^'^ ^' ^^-^- ^^ 'he great

'a^o'ike e..panse of Grand Ba; t ^ 7)' I "'^^ ^'^^^°^^^ " '■•"^^^ ^'^ "^P'-^'-^

^-ecn shores, sharply cut off f^o. ' """'"^- '''^ ^^'^^'^'^ -'^-^e. bright-

"'« sapphire of the wind-wrinkled
waters by a fringe of red and yel-
low beach, and dotted with white
homesteads glittering keenly, wore
a delicious freshness and purity of
tone under the unclouded blue of
the sky. To our right,
I'otween two rounded head-
lands crouched in guard,
opened the beautiful sheet
of water called the Ken-
nebecasis, which would be
esteemed a mighty river
could it but escape from
the neighbourhood of its
miRhtier sovereign. For the

lower eighteen miles of its course

it averages two miles i„ breadth, and is

;y: ^or sea-going craft. Tradition has
" t"at the measured depth of th^ k-
at !»„ • . ^ ' the kennebecas s

at Its junction with the St fnhn •

A VIEW IN FRKDERICTON.

tlie World's Fai

>• at Paris lifted St. John intt

OF THE CONTINENT 29

the broad blaze- of fame as the home of the champion oarsmen of the world. Hither
came the Tjiie-siders to wrest away their laurels, and here fell dead in the struggle
their gallant stroke, Renforth.

But as we discourse of these things to the man of the pencil, revolving at the
same time many other memories which are the sweeter kept for private delight,
we lose sight of tlie crouching headlands-the vision of the guarding Mounts-and
passing one or two low islands, brimming with wealth of grass and scented clover, we
enter on what is called the Long Reach, and there is open ahead of us a stretch of
broad water unswervingly straight for nearly twenty miles. The shores rise from the
water's edge lofty and thick-wooded, and bright little villages sparkle in all the nooks
and hollows. What a fresh wind draws down this long funnel, dashing into our faces
the thin crests of the white-caps and the spray from our vessels bow, and compelling
us to hold fast our hats ! A boat is seen to put off from the near shore ahead, and
soon there is a hoarse whistle from our steam-pipe and we slack speed. Here is a
"subject," and he of the pencil whips out his sketch-book, makes one futile efTort to
divide his attention between his hat and his prospective sketch, then snatches off the
hat and witii an air of heroic determination sits upon it. The approaching boat is
rowed by a seedy-looking Charon. Its bow is high out of water. In its stern is a
solitary female, dressed in her best, with many blossoms of divers hues in her bonnet
-muslin blossoms-and a much-fringed parasol held with dignity between the sun and
her complexion. At her feet is a barrel of corn-meal, freight consigned to the corner
grocery of some more remote up-river village, in the eyes of which this on the shore
beside us is almost a metropolis. Our paddles are vigorously reversed as the boat
clo,ses under our lefty white side; one of the <• hands" grapples her bow with the iron
beak of a "pike-pole," she is held firmly to our gangway in .spite of the surge and
wash from the paddles, and barrel and female are deftly transferred to our lower deck
In another moment we are once more throbbing onward, the skiff dancing like an
insane cork as it drifts back in the yeasty tumult of our wake.

At the head of the Reach are two or three islands of a pattern not generally
affected by the islands of the .St. John. They are high, rocky, and mantled in spruce
and f^r. b.rch and ha..matack. The typical island of the .St. John River is a low
luxurious fragr.ient of intervale, edged with thick alder and red willow, with here and
there a magnilicent elm. and here and there a hay-stack. One of these Lslands which
we pass has no apparent reason for its existence, save that it serves as a rim for a
broad and shallow lake, beloved of duck and rail. As we pass what looks like a very long
.sland. we mfbct upon the artist a reminiscence explaining the name of this curious bit of
land structure. Some years ago the writer made the ascent of the St. John in a birch-bark,
and. naturally, always hugged the shore to avoid the force of the current. Toward dusk he
saw before him what seemed the foot of an island. To shoreward the current was delight-

TH/i HASTHKMMOST R//)(;e

-tr:;:;;;:;:;:;;:;;ir;i;j::'; r'r-— '«'

>oo la,e co„»„,.„,, ,„,,, „„, ,„, .. .,„..\ , rV,'' .'"^'T ''''"^ """ "'-'■"-

retinue of n,„„|„it„„. ,„, ,„„,,. , „ . , / '"'''■ " '^" ""T. ""!' an at.entiv,.

•""■«'... an., „.,„ „ „;, :;„"'" """■"■ "' » ■■■"« "' -"-• .Hron^h „„.

width all the „,„. ,„ ,.> ,,,,„„"' ""'"':^ ' "" »"■"" «. a„.l l„c.en»e, i„

present. T„. .;„■, „ „ . ,„':;,""".""";' '» ■""'"■'■■' '" ' - L". it is -ve,-

because i„ ,,,„,„.„, ,„ ,,„ ' ' ^ J'^; '-"r- '^ee„. ,„ „„..„„„„,„ „,„„„^,

i. bea. „™.,., „,„/„ ,j: y "..:::::.r"7' '"""•- ■■' "- "■ ^"

.■oll-con,cn.c,l fa™s,..a.l,^„„,„ , , ' "'"■"•■ '" "- ""o.k are scattered the

al.vo w,-t„ bl.,ct.„i„,. „.„„;„, ,„ „..,„ „,„,," ,,.\^"~'""« "'"^"^ "' <'^•"^■

ronndcd sombre hiMs ; and fr„,„ ,|„.„ , ' ' '"" ''■■*'"•' »" "re the

-cnitons courses. <le. , ^ ' l' """" '" ""™^'"« '-»■ •■"<' «-' '^Z hv
with sreen. "' ""'■ """ '"'" ™ ■"- ''"» -i.-ir han^s curtained

-"i^ :i;:''„™;::"c;:;;: ::'?,;" r" -'>- -- -- - «r„ps ,„ „„e

.'i't of «ra r™.s or a T" """ ' """ '»'" »" •■1"»"y "ountifu,

.i- .a,rstl„,„,ul, silver, a ^rea 7' "'T ''" "™" """ "'" ''"■^' »"" "-«»
Piantin,. thirst, under tL" ,::;,: ;;,., ^^ ;™^» ^-"^ -'■ '-e „lo„«hi„, „„d

VV,. •>. " '' "'^ "■•■'t'''' with n si.rlit

We pass upon our l,.ft th,. i;,,|,. i,- , , "

-' i» "o»..... to „e found a :!:.:':r:i::T " "■ '-"-■ -•

"Oil. so drowsy .' In ., f[■^,^.
.Swe.-.ti„u ■n,i,| ,|„. j,„,,|p„ |,_.j^^.^
With iis „,u. whii,. ro„ or street
Carpelftl .m, jr,cen i„„| sweet.
AntI th loungers smokinjr ^,j||
Over ^r;,ie and window-sill;
.Volhinjf coniiPfr, nothini; going,
Ucusis grating, one cock crowin.,.
Few things moving up or down.
All things drowsy-Drowsytownl"

Canoeintr in the old ,|.,,
wHat his halt, .h/envfl " "" ' '" -'^'^••o.-rhoo.l of Capetown, no .att.r

^^■'-"" -- apt to push throu,h the h-ly-pads to shore, rest his

OF run CONTINHNT

and rejoicing, for
er ; and his chart,
orne him lovingly
with an attentiv(-
ion; through the
■lit.

■ ind increases in
'i<'. l)iit it is cver
aiistible richness,
'>' the St. John,
'nis to shade its
ntry, wherever a
ire scattered the
^3 red antl gray
'oiighs of elms,
ind ail arc the
tartle the quiet.
' Hteal along hy
hanks curtained

o crops in one
ually bountiful
t'ts, and draws
ploughing and

agetown, than

■n, no matter
ore, rest his

Ih'vI. on the warm grasses, and indulge in hours of lotus-eating amid the summer scents
an.l murmurs. On the other side is the mouth of the (iemsec. a deep, slow stream,
the outlet of Cirand Lake. The heavy-throated dwellers in this region call this stream
111'- MMinsack." Here was the site of on<- of La Tour's trading-posts and a strong fort, in
lis r(Mnoteness secure from all but the most determined onslaughts of the New V.n^-
laiu!<;rH. Hut several bitter struggles rageil about it during its season of importance as
the centre whence were organizc^d and directed tlu; e.xp.^litions of the Indians against
th(! English settlements in Maine, (irand Lake is more than thirty miles in length.
ami lies in the centre of the New Brunswick coal area. There; are large <leposits" of
lairly good coal about its borders, and the lake-beaches are interesting to th<. geologist,
affording many excellent specimens of fo.ssil ferns and calamites, to say nothing of
i;isp(!r and carnelian.

Ikyond Gagetown, early in the afternoon, we enter the County of S.mbury, which
forn,..r!y comprised all New Brunswick, but is now the smallest of the counties, though,
l-'rhap.s. the garden of the Province. .Maugerville, which we see from the wharf
through a thick curtain of willows, is the oldest English settlement on th.; St. John.
It was fonn.led by a mmiber of immigrants from .Massachusetts in ,766, who were
joined a f.;w years later by Loyalist refugees. These were men quiet but indomitable.
They Huff,,.nHl grievously for the f.rst few years, and wc;re .several times in danger
of cxtormination by the Indians, h'or protection against the fort on the Gemsec
which they perpetually dreaded, they built a fort at the Oromocto mouth, opposite
th.Mr settlement, where now their descendants build wood-boats and river schooners,
(irndually they compelled success, and their children in these days, as a rule, display
like characteristics.

We- make a long stop at the Maugerville wharf, taking aboard potatoes, a few
lUHhiiing sheep, and a yoke of stubborn o.xen for the I-Vedericton market The
shores above and below the wharf a e edged with mightj^ willows, planted not for
e(f..Cl, but for the protection afforded by their roots against the current, which would
fat the soft bank rapidly. At points particularly exposed there is built a -^uardin..
wall of cedar piles. Over all this region the St. fohn e.xerts its sov.-reignty with
.nost ,Mup,al,l,ed vigour. Her,; the spring freshets reign supreme, and for weeks at
a ti.u.. the farmers may be compelhul to go from house to barn, from barn to shed
ni row-boats or small, light scows. To school go teachers an.l children, not in car-
nag.;s. hut m skiffs, taking many a short cut across the drowned meadows. When
tH'' family would go to church the boat is brought around to the front door; .some-
tnmis It IS kept tied there. .And the adventurous small Maugervillian. explore in

wanh-tubs the extremest recesses nf f!,f. i,.,„i \ (^e ■ ■

"•'^^^^^ "' '^"c back yard. Of course it is not always so

l)acl ns this; but sometimes it i;

It is nearly four o'clock

irse.

wlu;p we catch si<rht of

volumes of white smoke against a

Tf/H /.ASTHRNMOST RnH;E

:•

f-LASIKKKOCKS, TOWOUK wv,,,,.

I'ackq-roiind of dark,
purplish -green „p.
lands, and are told
' t means "The
^^^•■"■'^•" A mile be-
yonti, across a lake-
''■'<e breadth of shin-
'".^^ ^vater, above bil-
'o\v on billow of leaf.
age, rise a few tall
spi'-es, one of v^hich
gleams like gold, while
tlic (,thers are dark
against the sky. There,
I'nder its cool veil of
''''"■■^. lies Fredericton,
t'le little city adored of all
Its children.

•.If

•i

OF run CONTINENT

ckg:roiind of dark,
rplish- green „p-
d-S and are toJd
m cans " T Ji e
''s-" A miJe be-
<l. across a lake-
breadth of shin-
ater, above bil-
1 billow of leaf.
"'■'^e a few tall
one of which
like gold, while
liers are dark
«• •'^l^y. There,
cool veil of
' I'redericton,
adored of ail

')'S

Chequers thy streets, anil thy close elms assume

Koiiml roof and spire the seiiihl.ince of green hillows;

Yet now thy glory is the yellow willows—
The yellow willows full of hees .ind hloom.

Under their mealy i)lossoms lilack-liirds meet,

And robins pipe amid the cedars nigher ;
Through the still elms I hear the ferry's heat;

The swallows chirp aliout the towering spire ;
The whole air pulses with its weight of sweet,

Yet not quite satisliud is my desire.

Within a year of the clt^vation of New Brunswick into a separate i'rovincc, the
(lovernor, Sir Thomas Carlcton, removed tlie seat of oovernment to what was then
known as St. Ann's l^oint, a spacious, sweeping curve of intervale ground, isolated l)y
a line of highlands jutting upon the river aljove and below, .\boiit fonr miles long
and a mile in breadth, watered by small brooks, wooded with elms of fairest propor-
tion, clear of underbrush as a well-kept park, and carpeted waist-deep with luxurious
grasses, it was certainly a tempting spot upon which to foimd a city. Not for the
loveliness of the spot, however, was it chosen to hold the capital of the infant Province ;
strategical considerations moved the soul of Sir Thomas. Of a peaceful country the very
peaceful heart, Fredericton owed its birth, and for long its existence, to the military
spirit engendered by the War of Independence. St. John was open to attacks from
hostile New England ; and, moreover, it had speedily become obvious that its spirit
would be aggressively commercial. It is hard to say which of these was in the eyes
of Sir Thomas the greater evil. He saw that St. Ann's Point was a fair spot, easy of
settlement, admirably adapted for defence, almost inaccessible by land, and not easily
accessible by water save for ships of light draught. Against these, also, a few cannon
on the heights below the town, at Simonds' Creek, would be an adequate protection.
From the military point of view, then, Sir Thomas had every reason to be satisfied with
Fredericton ; and not less so from the anti-commercial.

I he httle city, that has stood still for years at a population of 6,000, is wealthy
and looks it. but is troubled with an ambition to rival St. John and to become a great
distributing centre for the agricultural up-river counties, and for the mining and fishing
North Shore. She has ever been, and is, a centre of the lumber trade ; but for the
most part the Levites of commerce have but glanced upon her and gone by on the other
side. The smoke of factories obstinatelv refuses to blacken sk

les so

ir as ners ; even

a railroad, when it d

raws nit

;oes reverently and stavs its course in the outskirts.

Since the troops have been withdrawn, she has consoled herself for the commercial
supremacy of St. John by making secure her political, ecclesiastical, and intellectual
throne. She has the departmental and parliamentary buildings and the courts of law,

r/f/i KASTERNMo^ir RIPGH

HOLING UP AND PAUDLI.NG DOWN,

of wliicli St.
John not lonjr
since strove des-
perately to de-
prive her; but the
''ttle city holds with
smiling tenacity to
those good things she
antagonist was worsted. .Si,, has ,ko ,1 , , '''""'' '""'^ ''^'^ '^'R

pure Gothic architecture in ' C' d „ ^ -^^^:^-^^ -^t perfect specimen J

H-vincial University, and the Pr.iv ^^ "T ^'^^ "^ """'^^- ^'^^ "^ ^'-
-'1 iK-r a „„i...ity town, and he/ ""^^^f ^-^- Call her a cathedral city,

-- ^- '^^' ^vr.,ght upon ;:: zz T ; • '"^ '''-'' '- ^'-- ^'^'

•— . '- distinctive charn,s would :,;; ^Z: ^[r^' '^ '^'^ ^ ^'^'ve

- '"^.'!'P<<ir. Her hopes, however, are

-m

of whicii St.
John not lonjr
since strove des-
perately to dc-
'itr ; but the
city holds with
? tenacity to
ffood things she
and her big
ect specimen of
!^lie has the
cathedral city,
'e change she
"stle, to drive
. however, are

OF run coxtixf.nt ^^

■ centred in the InuMin. ,.( ,1,.. Mi,,,,,,;.,,; v-,,,,., k,,,,^^^,^ ^^ ^,,^ ,,^, „^^. f^^^.,^ ^^^

I populous Nashwaak, nver ,h,. iM.kl.nn,. nf th. Prc.-inre. and .l.nvn the sonth-west

^ M.ram.chi, a l,.„g-s..„l,.d 1„„ lar^Hv nnd-.v.!,.,.-.! s,.,:ti„n of .Iw .-..untry. With this

I road built, and th. S,, Jnl„, |,,id,„d ,, „„. „,.,„.,- ,.nd ..f th. city, I^redericton would

probably swu,,. out o| ,|, ,di „| ,;nd hnsnl in .he full tide of advancement.

It ,s poss.ble, at .]„. sa„,e .in,.., -ha, .he ,n.uth woul.l t.,ke pla«. chielly in the
suburbs of St. Marys and .iih.,,, ,.n .h. o,h,.r side of .h. river, in .hid, .-.e the
aristocratic quiet of iMv.lni.lou proper woul.l not be disturbed, Oth,.rwise we could
nnagnie one of her .i.i.,.„s, under the hoped-for new dispensation, ill at ease in the
unwonted stir and din, asserting, in response to manv con.rratulations, that truly the
change was sweet, but n.urmurinK afterward with Mr. Matthew Arnold-

" All ! so thr (|iiiei wa.s.
Si) w.is llic lu;sh!"

At present the brooding p.wn is seldom ruffled, save when the opening of the
nverbnngs in swarms of wll-paid and ver • thirsty lumbermen from thei; winters
, s^Iusion in the ren.o.e h..ar, of ,he woods, or when, on the evening of a certain
Thursday which falls toward .h- last of June, the city sleeps with cuu/Cye open and
.n the small hours starts up ,o fuul that the old university on the hill is in full
eruption, that the night is brigh, with blading tar-barrels, and musical with ubicp.itous
tm horns. Then the ground shakes with the thunderous report of a htn-e rusty
cannon, which, was presented ... U,e students some years ago by the spirit of an old
French General, whom, tradition .says, they had rudely awakened out of his centuries-
sleep. Ihe students' glee club was wont to meet for practice, on moonlit nights, in a
secret part of the grove where ,he General had been buried. He arose and bribed
them w.th the cannon; and thenceforth the club met no more in that place

He of the pencil, with wh.un w had much argument on the subject, decided that
the best v.ew of the ci.y was that from the lower ferry landing on the opposite side
of the nver. V\ e nu.y say Ihmv ,hat bredericton can boast of three steam ferries-

upper, middle, and lower iir> «>m., ..r . i • i r

, "' "f ^'''^'^'^ favours the idea of a bridge I Let us

take a canoe from the St. Aiui'^ Unwln.r f-l,,i i * i ■ ■ , .

rinnn Kowmg Llub boat-house, and examme this view from

the other s.de. VVe do not sua much of the city except its steeples, rising out of
bdlows of elm-tops. Heautifully rounded willows line most of the water front • white
steamens. red tugs, black w.KHbboats, and schooners fringe the wharves; but w.
feel a httle disappointed, The N.un.al School building, though its back is to us
as .s the case w-ith most of „,.. din,, we catch sight of. looks well. But we are

forcibly attracted bv thr C'iiv 11,11 „i,;.], m , . ,. ,

"> "•'"■ ^^'"*l'> \\ith a supremelv ridiculous little tower
stuck upon its rear, to matcii ilu. I,;., i i . . ,

J . ni.ucM III, jji^ clock-tower upon its front, looks like the back

\ €

W/i- lU.STKRXMo.v/ N„H;n

,""- '"- '■« "' '--. „, ,,„., ^., ; '' '";"■■"'■' -"■ '■->« ,„ House.

■.;'"" '^ '■ '-^ -„, ,.„„., ,„ ,„,,• „ \.;; " "■■' "■•'■ « '- P"l.r» ,„

'"'■■""»"■■ "•■'" -» .!..■ r,.,„„ ;,, ,„ ' , r r" "'" "" ''■•■"" ■"- "■«> ^.11

'"• ' ""'"■ '""■'<■■' ■•< -I-" ... .1,,. ,, „ r "■"'■ '■ '"'•" "- ^.-... ..nds

""',•-7' '""'■ ""■ -' '.i"-l.-, ,-l i,„ ,„,„ ;, ""■ '■""" •" ""■ !■.«- ,„„cc.

■n« -y. .Ii.„.,„.,,rl,„ ,„.,,, „„. ^„„,„„„^ ■'"■■-.. "( ,„c ,. „,.

"■'-- "' ricl, ,,f,.„, ,,,„„, „,,, ,_, ' "I ..!» ... „„r ri.|„, „, ,,,,„^ ^

"'"• '™... a ...Vo „.„e» .„„ ,,„.,, .„;";™:"' --■■'■ ■^-- .l.^ee „,,, ,„
<-lo»o at l,an,l tl„: „,I,it,. .,,,1,,, „, ^ .. , ,"^'' """'' ''«'" '''«nk

;""-"» i»i... r„.,„ ,>.,,■„., „„,,„ „„ „ r,,"^; '" "' ■".-■ '..--r, o, .„, „„,

-".- "' a,.,. i„ ,0,, ,,„,„„, „,„^^,„ ,^ ' ^ ^•»'.»a..., Vi„,.,.„„, ,,„„ „„„
'"..... ..va,i„„. .„., ,„ ,, „,„,^,.^ „. -^Gc.,„...e. ,„ ,„ „,, ,,^_,_^^ ^^^

abandant. ll„t tl„, N,.,. ,• , , ''"- ."arvolloasly ,,reat i„rf

""> -y .i..roo „r co,„,„„. „,„„,: ,77,;7 »;"77™. ..... .» „.„,., ,„„ ,„„„

'"= "'""'"^ "-" ■■'-"--". ....,1 co,„,„,,i„i,„; ' . 7'"'7-' »"" ««■ «".onco ca.„o in

■"• attitude of ;,„,,,

' *^ '"■''». "list.ikinj. i,

■V I'arliiiMi.nt | Jous,.,

'J"'-"-'^ I'illars „,, th,.

•"^""K' "f tho most

"I'l^^n grounds which

"''>• 't is a Uri^Ut
''•■■'v<s into their f„)|
I"''"'- -'nd lu'inlock ;
'" ""• '^'■'•"-•r winds
''"' '""■''•• terrace
"•^ <l".>l<c'd in cle.-ar
''" ■' shiiiinjir russet
^tr.ilnlu ahead. Ji(.s
^lath is fresh upon
'' '' f"<- <l'e most
round the jr|eam-
■•'.tiht, or where a
n- three miles in
as to be almost
lurch.

>f tile Nasliwaak
t^ry of this spot.
"• "■'"-■ 'lero and
li further secure
' 'arge and well-
^cw Knglanders
forewarned, was
'"'■■ty-six of his
t'lt- fort. r|,e
e .stream, on a

•^'iPrry season,
and sweet and h

firf; from the
>''k th(! others
upon all such
'lence came in
'"e unpopular

O/- /■///: CO.VT/X/u\"r 37

in the invaders' camp, and imder cover of the next ni^jht they forsook it and ried. In
^^ the autumn of ,bqS th.- ;rarrison was remnv.d to Fort La Tour, which had h<-en relmili
I at th.. mouth of the St. John, and after \ illel.on's .leath in ,700 the Nashwaak fort uas
.icmolished Nothin^r now remains to remind us of ,hos<- .-.xciting thouj,d, uncomfori-
al.le times save some «reen mounds wIut.- ..nc- stootl Villel.on's ramparts, .,r a few
. rust-caten cannon-balls which the farmer gathers in will, his potato-crop.
. To Grand 1-alls. ..„ miles above I'Vedericton. one may ^ro by rail; or !,.• may

j contmue by boat to \Voo.lst..ck, and from that point take up his land-travel. The
, ch.ef attractions of the river voyag,,- between bred.M-icton and \V.,o,lstock. a distanc..
of SLxty miles, are to !,,. found in the b.-auty of the I'okiok Fails which are passed
m route, an.l in th.- oddity ..f the stean.er, which is of the patt.Tn calle.l a " wh.-el-
barrow-boat." This craft has heard of the feats of western vessels of her class, and
claims to make occasional overland voyages after heavy rains.

Woodsto-k. a picturesc]ue little town amonu hills and .roves and well-tilled sf..p
holds, .s a dangerous rival to I-Vedericton for the up-river trade, on account ..f her
pos.t.on and the enerjry and enterprise of her citizens. Thrice i,as she been almost
destroyed by (ire. yet she rises ..uickly fron, her ashes, cheerful and busv as ever She
-s very hopeful and self-reliant, has saw-mills, and iron-mines. and so nearly approaches
the dignity of a city as to possess a suburb, called •' Mardscrabble."

Above Woodstock the character of the river shores chan-^es. The skirting inter-
vales disappear, and the banks are lofty, bold, and diversified. The sketch which our
graphite-wieldin. comrade made at Newbury Junction, a few miles up from Wood-
stock, while we waited for the train to take us to Tobique and Grand I-'alls is
characteristic of the up-river scenery in its more temperate moods. The New Rruns-
w.ck Railroad traverses the hei,dns. crossing wild and profound ravines on bridges of
sp.dery build ; again it rushes out upon a fertile rolling champaign !au,hing with
prosperity; and anon it carries us back into tlie firc-rava-^ed wildernesses. l!„t everv-
where we see that the soil is strong, an.l the country capable of sustaining a .r.-at
population. '^ *'

At the little village of Andover. some twenty-four mile, below Grand l--alls, we
resolved to ascend the beautiful Tobicpie River, partly for the sake of its scenery but
more. It must be confessed, for the sake of its trout-fishing. We had little .lifficulty
.n securing three trusty Melicites, with their still more trusty canoes-a can.,,, and an
Indian for each of our party. Tiie inhabitants of this Tobi.iue village are makin<.
excellent progress in civilization. They are intelligent an.l religious, own many horses
and cattle, do some .,ood farming, an.l show n., si.ns of povertv. Their village is
fairly dean, th,-ir houses are well iniih an.l car..! for. Sewing-machines proved that
even hither had the persuasive travelling agent found his wav. Beside one door stood
a handsome baby carriage, with a black-eyed, red little Melicite crowing roudly

/ 1

J«

rmi J:.isr/,j,:,.uo^/ ,^,,^,^.^_^

I If

ON nil-; roHiijL'i.

*'""" ^ -Hi w. found in tlH. ci,iers cut..,.. , „. , , ■

some piles of sh.et-nu.sic ;.n,l -, ,:.,,:.. ?. ^ '' "''"""' '"■«""■ ''-ide wh

"' •! Violin. Son

'"' "I llit'sc Ind

ich were

'"''•"•^ "f'l r„r thcMnsclves

•some piles of sheet-ninsic an

»- i-.-ank s,,,,,, „„„, „. ; ' - ■■ y, ., „ „„, ,,„,,^.,,

"■' "■"■■- M'^'»- H,. ,, ,,„„ „„.;,;,:,;,'" ,:■■'";■• '^''■™"- .i-o,«m,,, „„

.u.c..w,-„eu ,.,., .„,,.,,,^ „„„.. ;,_,- ; ■; ■ :, ,. ., ,.,„ ,„,, ^^^^

'' "■•■'" '•'"'■■ '" ill--- .■lt.-rri„„„ „.||,,„ .,, I,,, ,

.V-rcen water, „f ,|,,. T„i,;„ ,., ,. , .' "'" '"'""' ""'"Hvfs „/!.«,

'"•'"'• "'"''■ l»V in rid, »n,r.,.,, „,,„ „,

anil

"pon the
HT current of

OF THE CONTINF.NT

side which were
f"i" themselves
onr jruiiles, b)-

tlioroui^hly, and

"il'anions, Tom

I'ut they were

i'«t'fii! knowl-

eness wliidi an

'float upon the
''cr current of

the St. John. We leaned hack hixurioiisly upon hemlock jjranches heaped in the bow
of each canoe, while our Meiicites, erect in the st(n-n, prop-^llcd us a-ainsl tJie swift tide
with K)ny, surginyr thrusts of their white spruce poles. In half an hour we reached
•• The Narrows," where the straitened river hisses alono- for n<arl>- a mile throu<rh a
deep n-orrre marvellously tortuous. It struck us as a miniature of the sublime cailon
through which the river .St, John thunders and smokes awa\- from its mighty plunge
at Grand Falls. It took us two hours to struggle up through these narrows. The
glistening rrrecn and white waters curled uialiciously as they split and sheered past our
obstinate bows. The while poles trembled and tlickered ■wider the strain, and great
beads of sweat rolled down the guides' dark faces, Here and there we clung a few
I moments with our hands to some projecting cornice of rock, .and snatcheil a breathing
space. Only once did we find a side eddy large enough to hold our canoes for a little
while out of the grasp of the current. Above our heads towered the ragged and over-
hanging cliffs, unscalable, with an occasional dwarf cedar swinging out from precarious
foothold in some high crevice. The sombre surface of the shale through which this
chasm has been cleft is traversed by irregular seams of white hmestone, forming a deli-
cate tracery in strong contrast with the rest of the scene. Above the Narrows t"lie river
widens abruptly, the current becomes almost placid, and the shores turn pastoral. We
camped here for the night, and pitched our tent on a tiny piece of clean sward, half
surrounded by a veritable forest of tall ferns. No such ferns as these for luxuriance
are to be found elsewhere in Canada. We cut them by the armful for onr beds, and
our dreams that night were pervaded by their fragrance.

Allowing for such exceptions as shall hereafter be noted, the banks of the Tobique
are a mixture of deep intervale and fertile upland, all admirably adapted to the sup-
port of a farming population. Wherever the shores are low th<> natural growth
consists of elm and water-ash and balsamic poplar, rising from a <,uiet sea of grasses
and flaunting weeds. In such regions the wild iris is everywhere in possession" along
the water's brim, holding purple revel with the multitude of azure and golden dragon-
Hies; and everywhere, also, the broad, gn:en banners of the fern. Hut where the bw.
round hills <lraw close to the water the sh,n-es .lisplaN the warm olive tints <,f fir-
thickets, mingled with th... p.de colour of birches and the glaucous hues of hackmatack.
I^or many miles of its coL.rs.: the river runs through rd sandstones, ^ery warm and
v.vid in tone. We pass.-d long ranges of bank so steep that most of the soil had
slipped away, and the glowing rc.l surface was netted over with a deep-green tanulc of
vmes. accentuated here and there with a group of ce.lars. The splendour of'%uch
colouring under full sunlight, with the rosy rellections from the bottom .,f .h- shallow
nver seemin.r to set the very air allush, we can find no words to paint. At the Red

Rapids the river chafes d

effect is produced by the chill white of the

own over a long incline of this sandstont

and

1 h

ere a new

waves which leap up again . the great red

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

boulders in the clrinm.l 'vu ■ ,

•-™h..,,.™m:;;:::i;::.::;;::;,:;--"'< ........r.

"' -':-r:::::;\;;:::;: — til;;. -- ■- -7— .^.^^.^

w--« ,.aUK.,.d a, C. „,„„„„ <„ ,™<„3°1, '''""' ""■"="'' ■" "■« "PP- "a.crs. „.
»"•' >-...T. 0,-,.,,„i„,, „„ „i,, ';.';; • ' ■'"7 "■; -«"■"-' "- »-ll .1*. ca,..

^«p o,„. ,.,„,,.,„ .„,;,„„, s„„„:!„,: ;.;:;: r '™;'"' -" -= "-"" -

»'"l> ""•= approval „p„„ „„. Ii,„,. ,ni„: " ' "»"'""■«= SamI

''=«™.i n.:H, u,a. ..„„, .„„ ,„ ,„,. „„ -:, ::- ;t7 '-;;'-";■ --^ ......

'.™.ioct .an. «„,„,„, ,■„ „.. :„a„o.; ,,, r,;; ""'»"' » -'■ '^^- »i-'.

»ho„ld arrive. V„,.a,i„, o„ ,„„» carelessly I , """ "'"™"'"' ^•=-°"

«ave an occasional li.,|„ ,,,„„,- „r "° ""'■' '° """<'-■ "" ~'"Plain

encan,pc.,, l.o.cver cam. ,1 " °™^*"™''y ''" "■e »n.,I,ine. W,,e,,

^.pera.c. a.„ir,. i::: trr::: ^^r '^ "t "- °' "-^ --

«->>» ." c„, a -clp.lal.^.a,;! ;;::," ':"""' '•' "'•■* °- -'"» in.0 ,„c
,-r„™, U,cir .,„.,c,, n'po,, L.a'rI.nnJ, '■::,;/; """ '"= ^^^ "= -^"=^ ..•
<"" .he Pic,„rcs,.,e„ess o, ,„c can.p. "„ ! ; 'T" ,'-'""™''- "" ■"'» *P"* '

:-'. .i.e «..,cr c„„ po,,.„, ,„„ .„,.;,„ ,,.., ,;■; ; 7;'-;™°" P* 'o^^^^^ a. one

:; -'"'"" 7" ' "- -"- an. ...e fire i! r;;.' ." „ c „ I:"^'"' " ' '""'""'

" -r ,1,0,1 Jav fr,„„ An.lovcr we reached ,l,e •. Phscer CIW - ,
more ,l,an sorpasscl „„r e.pcc,a,i„„, Tl,e river a, ,.• '' "''"'^ '"'"''

is lo>v. semi.,ro,,ical in ,|„, |„v„ri,nce , V '""" " "''""'"■ "■"= •'I'""'

""- ■— « -« -':::: rn::;:,:!;:'";;"'*' '- "■= •""" '-' -»

and the whole n.ck-faco is -x |„v,.|v 11 r r ' '""' ''"''' ^'"'''^'^ i'Uricatelv.

"-■ "■' '■'.^•.< cr .OS i::, „':;,:; :,::';: --;, -;'"■ -*• "™- »-

">■ '•■•■"■'■"* as a ,„p.,lressi„, f,. ,„eir .rastj T , " " ""' """ "'' " »"'>■

'■■«" "™ ""■'•^•' ""•. -i ...ore a n.ass' „ ,„,I° '7"'^"™'"""°""' '"= '-^

»n,o l.roaJ pa.ol.os „f vcd, don, a-ains, ,l,o 1 "'"'" ""'' "'■'''«• "'■=-

»a» a .lrap,.rv „f pale lvc„p„di„,„; „ T, ■ 7 '' ""■'""■ """ »"'' """•=■ "Iso.

veil of „ ,:,„ „.7„, '"""•'"""^' - "•"' '"■'=- ->' l'-..l..loos Moo.,.o„s. or , ,„verv

OF Tin-: CONTINEMT

2 in length, and to

foot. We stopped

ichino; the head of

■asured, slow thrusts
th a yentle, pulsino
It-' upper waters, or
!ic small i':sh, eager
' all we needed to
I'Xf^rtion, we gazed
tcads, and quaint,
for the most part
a raft laden with

convenient season
make us complain

sunshine. When
lizens of the wild.

up his wet socks
-if copiously with

he importanc ■ of
-' sallies into the
e are enabled to
on this depends
e forked at one
It is fortified

whose beauty
ovv. One shore
)ther hand rises
isted intricately,
fis, browns, and
h1 bear it av\a\-
lour of the roc k
1 violet, when-
and there, also,
lis. or a silvery

ing as we de-

sired. But still better was the sport which is brought to mind by the recollection of
" Blue Mountain." All along under the fish-fence of" stakes and brush-wood extending
to mid-stream, what swarms of trout lay in ambush, anil how hungrily they rose to

the lly ! Splendid fel-
lows, too, and full of
phi}'. As for the moun-
tain, a geological report
which is at hand, assures
us that its height is two
thousant! one hundred
feet, and that its summits
are visitetl by terrific
thunderstorms.

The next day Bald
Mountain came in view,
a round, naked peak
thrust up from the bosom
of an impassable cedar-
swamp. Upon the soli-
tary arm of a dead,
gray pine-tree on the shore perched a white-headed eagle, which thrust out its neck
with a gesture! of an.xious inquiry, and yelped at us as we passed. Soon we
reached the Forks, where the fishing surpassed itself. We remained a day, and the
store of trout which rewarded us the Indians salted down in little crates of birch-bark
for the homeward trip.

At the l-orks the right branch, or Tobique proper, flowing from the south, is
joined by the Mamozekel from the east, and the Nictor, or Little Tobique, from the
north. Up this stream, the wildest, grandest, and most beautiful of the three, we
pushed to its source in Little Tobique Lake. This lake is the most sombre of inland
waters. Its depth is mysteriously great, so that, though pure as crystal, it looks black
even close to shore. The hills stand all about it, and Nictor Mountain dominates it.
The winds seemed never to descend to tlu level of its bosom, and the woods that
fringed it were silent. We saw no birils here but a bittern, plainly out of her reckon-
ing, and a white-headetl eagle which stood guard over the scene. We explored,
sketched, fished ; and, mowd by a spirit of defiance, we took a swim in the icy
waters, and shocked t

ST. JOHN l;l\l K, M Al; M WHUKV U ' .\( ; I |( ).N.

ancient forests with rollicking songs. But soon th

e wt'ird

en we turned and (led

solemnity of the spot overmastered us. We became «-rave. Th

back. The journey down was very swiftly accomplished. The distance of a hundred

and odd miles was covered in a day and a half. The Indians sat and paddled gentlv.

^^ ^^'isyv-/,x.uosT a>//h;/:

■"1^1 the shores sli„n<.,l l,v III- • •

'-- -" .™":rL:!;T'"'^' ''-'"•■ -■-■—.

""""■'■ "I"'" -'^"..i» i ,„-a„ „i,i, ,1,,, 7 '! '"■"""■'' '■' '■ •"'■^y "- «•-■■■" ". .iH-

"■" """^-'''» - — 1 ;:':,:'; -"■■ "•• ■— :

7"" ' "■'■'" —",.,.■,„,„■,,. „„. ,,„;,,;""■ '"'•■»■ '■'— » ■..■(

^- -"'■'■ A Ion,..,. ,,„, »„„.„ ,^^^ „r„, , :"v,;r " '"'" '""^" "■"■"«"' ■"..

*-a.K.,t, i, ,1,, |,,„,| „, "•"" r.,r („,„„, |.,||,,

•'•••." Ningara „„. ,„,,,„. "I""'- "'- '"con.pa^u,. !..,» i„ ,„.g„,,„j^

t'ons and surroiindin.crs
''■ tiK; CWnd I.-alls are
'^"(-'i that th(

•I 'iiinilar
"'feet. A

■)■ produce
overwheJmino

river neari

\- a

quarter of a mil

(-' in w id til

"•■"'"v.'s to three hun-
f"t'<-t, and tai-

tire.i

(■s a

l"'n'-"'li(:(ilar pi

inu

• ■li'h

ty feet

into a chas

side

111,

loom and

'■••'^^'".^^<)f uliich the
at N

'■()r;re

'■'i.^^ira seem-

joyoi);.

'i<: vilhi

o( (

■ rand

■'"■s IS an

irrcMidar scat-

lerrni.

)f -vh

itc cotta

-li/es

upon th(
'ii,L;h plat

■summit of

ean.

!•

"oni end

"• ''"'I <l<>u-n the cent

''""■< a street

ambit

ions

named Jj|.„.„|

;iy

\\:iv.

triit

'• it is I, road

lys, there

••nonn-h to b

's a continual

'^- mistaken for

•'^IvantaK^e in the nei-dib,

nicin- of cool I

■i meadow. O

ver it.

ighbourhood of the 1,

freezes. The cit
tti<; Post Office

izens

even in the hottest

may be studied to b
o-- in the sliadow of the h

iCSt

uge

(;/•" THE COXTJNHNT

"'•<■ ■'^iin siioiu; hotly.
"•')■ I'e stHMi in th,.
When u-,. c;unc to
'"'ici-e was a brief
'' ""■ Iliad, white
"liich tlirontred the
^ at the Narrows,
'''''""i>l,^■ across the
' iiat evening we
alls.

L'^1 in these jjages

of many waters.

'flit as to ignore

<-ss in magnitude

^ I'le hottest

'died to best

of tlu; huge

■-Si

white pillars which adorn the front of the hotel. Those pillars are Doric in their
massive simplicity; and the whole stnicture causes one- to fancy that a Cireek temple
has captured a modern white washed barn and has punidly stuck i. on behind. In
-pilct of tin paucity of citizens, tlie :,treets have an air of life, the jjigs being numerous
ami alv.ays engaged in some work of excavation, while the geese are as clamorous as
hawkers.

It was a perfect niL;ht when we arrived. The summer moon was at the full, low
down in the sky, so we went strai^L;lu\\ay out upon the suspension-bridge which spans
the gorge a few stone-throws below the falls. The falls are nowhere visible till you
meet them face to face, but their tremendous trampling hatl filled our ears ever since
leaving the hotel. From the centre A the bridge, which trembled in the thunder ami
was drenched continually with spray-drift, we looked straight into the face of the cata-
ract, through the vagueness of the moonlight and the mist. (3n the one side leaned
over the great crags, black as ebony, with their serrated crest of (ir-tops etching the
broad moon, which had not yet risen cpiite clear of them. On the other hand the
higher portions of the rock, being wet, shone like silver in the light. To the white
chaos beneath us no moon-ray liltered down, and we could mark there nothing definite.
As we watched the cataract in silence the moon rose higher, and suddenly athwart

the swaying curtains of
the mist came out the
weird opalescent arch
of a lunar rainbow,
which kept dissolving
and rebuilding before
our eyes. Not till it
had melted finally did
we go back to the hotel.
We took days to ex-
amine the falls and
explore the grim won-
ders (jf the gorge. The
longer we stayed th(;
stronger grew the spell
of the place. At the
base of the cataract is
thrust up a cone of rock
some forty or fifty feet
in height, which the foam alternately buries and leaves bare. From the foot of the
desccnr the river does not, as at Niagara, Jloio away. It does not even rush or dart

INDIANS .MAKI.NC; TOKCIIES.

-^1

•■■»

THH liASTERNMOST RIDUE

■■■»

OF THIi COXTIXr.NT

LITTLE TOBlgUK LAKE.

tMl*'-A

away, but it is belched and volleyed off with an explosive force so terrific that masses
"I water, tons-weight, are hurled boilinjr into the air, where they burst asunder vehe-
inctnly, white to the heart. Great waves leap unexpectedly far up against the walls of
tht! chasm. At times the river heaps itself up on one side, giving a brief glimpse of
iiakod rock down to the very bed of the gigantic trough. This ungovernable bursting of
th(! waters continues through almost the whole extent of the gorge. A side ravine close
beside the fall, a sort of vast wedge-shaped niche, is piled full of hundreds of thousands
of logs, jammed inextricably during the Spring freshets. At half-freshet, when the cone is
♦Mllirely hidden, we have seen mighty pine timbers lunge over the brink, vanish instantly,
;iiul then be shot their full length into the air, perhaps fifty yards away from the
liill. Somciim^'s a log is raised half its length above the surface and held there in
a fitningc fashion, so that it goes off down the torrent on its end, spinning like a top.
Throughout the gorge occur several minor falls, which disappear when the river
is high. Except during freshet, most of the gorge is accessible to good climbers.
At one point an elaborate stairway has been built to the water's vA^gn. Here, in
the opposite cliffs, there is a recess which is occupied by "the Coffee Mill."
This is a whirlpool about one hundred feet across, kept constantly full of logs,
blocI<H, and d,ibris. The water is invisible under its burden, which sweeps around its
circ!.; imceasingly, ever striving to escape at the outlet and ever inexorably sucked
back, Where the floor of the gorge is exposed the strata are all upon edge, crushed

(''

r/ii-: /iAS7i-RXA,osT R//H:n

together in coils an.l f„i,|, |,,,, ar.. rh. ..\VHis '■ ... „

-lar pits. l,on.l dean into ,1,,. In-nt of ,1, , ,' ^ "" ^"''^'' "'"'■''' ''""I' -^^^-

a.™. wit„.,„„. , ,,„,. „„„„^ ,„ ,„^^,_„ ^.^; ■■ ■

'• '■'•"'■o'lilc. tliivalcnin- t„ crish tn..,.,l,

"" ■■' '"'■'•■ '■'! 'Mi-Mi, tin: clilTs
!■ '■••ill-> iiidok llasi

■^"I'I'oschI .infa.homal,!,.. o„ur,stin.. ir. i, '• ^^^ """' ^' ■'^"■" '■'"^'^ ^"<'

'<"-- .„i.h ,.oa,.s past on :., '''"" ^''^^ """ ^'^ ^^"^'" --h of th.

f-t .n h..i^ln. Toua.l on. si.K: of this vast wail 1 J""''""' '"" '""''■"'

^^-. sp,-ea.s itsdf in a noisd.ss n.t.o,. ^ l:;" '''''' '^ ^^^'^ ^« ^-^- ^^^^"s

'■ -^'''Mil^e a (l„unu-.,nl smoke,
Along .he din ,o ,„,l. .,„ ,,„„,, ,„„ ,,„ ^,,,_,^ ^^^,^ „

It was hcrc, if tradition licth not tint th,. In r

taken in ua. '"^'""^ ""■'' ^" '""•' ^'^-n their captives

As mi-ht be expected, (Irand Tails h-,. 1
The first bridge over the ,oro , f " '" ^"^"^ "^ '"-'>' ^^ -^f''' '-.edv.

•■streanwlrivcrs-^havebeen'snched ""\^'^^'^'-^'' ^— "P"" it- I.u„,bcrn,e„ :.

■-*-.a a.™- ... .,.::;i:;:-:;i;r ;r^:: ::::r r-'''' °'

uieieaitei. One trao-ic
■-^torN- is a story also
of woman's heroism.
In the days when
the Melicites were a
gix-at nation their im-
placable enemies were
the Moliawks. A
Moliawk war part\-
launched its canoes
upon the head-waters
of the .St. John, in-
tending by this new
route to surprise the
chief village of the
Melicites, at An pak.
Before reaching the

•^ ".itcis. .\s they drifted silently down

>'AKIXr; X,,\V ,.OI.K ,.OK caxok.

tly tailed, ,i,.,.p eir-
1^ the cave, whirl,

t<),L;ctli,T inoimiuly.

'" 'Mem, li,,. clilTs
•^ ^lill l.lack );ool

lit'' wrath of the
ro'-k. I'roin this

l>i^^' two hmulred

i-^ to brwik, I'alls

VII their captives

111 awful tra^rcily.

i.umbennen -
(ircadful whirl of
tt^i'. One traf,M'c

i^ a story also
Oman's heroism,
lie days when
tielicites were a
nation their im-
ilt' enemies were
^lohawks. A
vk war party
(-'tl its canoes
lic' head-waters

•St. John, in-
:: 'jy this new
o surprise the
ill'^ire of the
-'•■., at All pak.

reachinjj the
e\- captured a
;■ s(|uaw, who
silently down

OF Till'. coxrixr.xT 47

i>y nii^iit she was |)ut in iht- fo'-cmost canoe, and ordered to take tiieni to a safe
lani!ii:,Lj in the rpjier liasin.
wlien;:" they would, nc.\t day.
make a [)ortajfe around the
cataract. She steered tiu'in
straij^lit for the vorte.x. When
they started up from their
lialf-sluml)er, with the hideous
menace of that thunder in
their ears, it was too late,-. A
few moments of a;^fonizinLj
effort with their useless pail-
illes, tlx'ii they and their cap-
tive were swept into the Ljidf.
Never did another Mohawk
invasion vex the .Melicites ;
but the latter ha\(; not pre-
served the name of the girl
who saved them.

From (iranil l'"alls by train
to the mouth of Ciraml River;
and hence, with our guides
and canoes, summoned from
Andovcr to meet us, we set out
for the Restigouclu! and \orth
Shore. Poling u|) lirand Riv-
er, it a[)peared tame after the

Tobique. Into Grand River (lows the W'aagansis, a meagre, dirty stream, grown thick
with alders, through which we pushed our way with difliculty. Thence we made -i
portage to the head of the Waagan, a tributary of the Restigouche. We were now
on the other side of the watershed, about to commit ourselves to the streams of
the Gulf slope, famous for their salmon and trout.

The Waagan is, if possible, a more detestable little stream than the Waagansis.
The canoes had to be pushed and dragged through the ilense growth occupying the
river's bed, and the shores were almost impenetrable with shrul). The onl\- picturesque
object seen was a bear, which evinced no regard for his ;esthetic importance, but made
all haste to vanish from the landscape. Hut the mosquitoes surpasseil themselves in
their efforts to entertain us fitly. At last we rounded a fair woodeil i)oint, and slipped
out, in ecstasy upon the pale-green waters of the Restigouche, •'the Five-lingered

STRiri'INO OK H,.\KKINC; A TKIili I'OK rORCHliS.

•4^

Tim I-ASTI:RNMOST R/,h;h

CIM

a!
u
>

U
O
OS

<'V'^ 7///f CONTINENT 4^

Kiver,"as its name is sai.I to MJ^nify. What a contrast to tin- Waa^yan ! As w.; heaclcl
clown tiie lucid ciiinMU tiic sky now scrmc.l to ^rr„w Line ami tin- brt;e/.o to soften. A
wood-duck winded past, its ^jor-rous pluma-o K'iowin- in tlir s.u,. Tiic- mosquitoes and
the j,rnats vanished, and in llwir place came exquisite pai.-l.iue butterflies, delicate as the
l.etais of llax blossoms, hoverin^r about our heads, or ali-htin- on prow and ,s,a.nwale. Then
Iron, a dead branch proje.tiuK over the water a great kinj^tisher launched himself, and
darted away down stn^m will, nu.cking laughter. And through the whole down trip
we never lacked the conjpanionship of a kingfisher. Ihere were l.luejays, too, and
sandpipers, and Canada-birds whistling far and near; and sometimes the hermit-thrush
sounded his mellow pip.; um we passed .i secluded thicket. The forests were every-
where luxuriant; the waters populous with f,sh as the air with birds and butterflies.
We cast our mimic (lies till we grew tired of it. and fed upon the fat of the land.
Altogether, the Restigouch.' w.,n our very hearty approbation, though in the upper
portion it is not of such (live,-sili,..d beauty as the Tobique. However, in the possession
of a mighty tributary, on.- of the "live fingers," the titl<- thereof the " Quah-Tah-Wah-
Am-Quah-Davic," it easily .listanc's the Tobique. Luckily, the lumberman has been
^^ here, and ,ias abbreviated ih„ name to " Tom Kedgwick."

m Here, fish-wardenn being .carce. in the interest! of art and science we took upon

f ourselves the guise of poaclKTs. and w.-nt spearing salmon by torchlight.

Where the paper-birclj grew large and clean upon the river shore, we called a halt.
Rolls of bark about three feet in length were stripped from the larger trees, in the
.nanner shown in the sk-Uch. With a dozen of such rolls we were content, and pro-
ceeded to our torch-making, A strip of bark eight or ten inches in width was folded
once down the middle. |.'iv., «uch folded pieces laced tightly together with touoh and
pliable straps of the inner lurk of .. young cedar constituted one torch, capable of
iHu-n.ng for about filt....n ,„inut..s. With a couple of do.en torches we were fully
equipped, as only one cmoe was to engage in the forbidden sport. The ninht was
windless, according to desire, bm a faint mist coiled la.ily on the placid surface of the
river. 1 he hour was kit.;, ,ind a gibbous, weird, pale moon peered through the h.fty
elms and poplars on the hnvr bank. The torch, thrust into a cleft stick and placed
erect m the bow of the c.-m.,.-. llared redly, and cast off a thick volume of lurid smoke,
•which streamed out behin.l m as noiselessly we slipped through the water. In the
bow. spear in hand, stoo.l our .hief guide, his dark face gleaming fiercely in the sharp-
cut lights and sha.lows, while his keen gaze searched the river-bottom. On one side
loomed a rocky bank, which Hefmed about to topple over upon us Through the fitful
glare and the distorting nmoke. the trunks of solitary pine trees and of ancient
birches that had fallen pron.. up.m the brink took on strange menacing shapes of
.^.gantic stature. White decaying stumps and half-charred ' branches leered impishly
through the darkness of the

underbrush, and a pair of owls flapped to and fro. hooti

nff

/■///:• /■:.lSTJ:RX\/()sr R/f)(;n

;:r;!:;„„;r",;r;,":. "Vr"' '-•■'-"'-- a„ .,_,„

silcncL' the su-iltl,v V.,..,. I,- , " '^^ •^^''"" ^''^ lirc-atl.l.s

^::::;::::;:;;;:.::.:;:r;::::::;;;;::::-i:;-^ ^. -r

our.vs TI? , , ;"''"'"•">■ "^ '^ ^l''''-"li'i salmon Hash,.,! iK.fon

2" :,j ::,'::: ■1''';;''™:; -""i-.-:.. ..,,„,„„

-»-^ '^^■....:-:::.';r ■:::':: :r,::t. ''""■ ^t" "■"

.<l:^iri;^J::::::;l::::'l:;^;"'•;"^'7 -' ■-

""t- of stran..-,. |.u,..inrr Sh 1 I ■ " ""' '" '' "'' '"•■^'''^' '" '^ "

.i... .w.:,. .:;:r ;:„,:■""■,:::,::;::" ■ ■ '""™» •'- -.-.

■ ;v^' - '■•' ■..-'-■ ^;,;;::;:;:;:.;r::,,;::;-t-* :-

7'"'' ""• ' -'■ '■»• ■'■'.•■'.■ '.»«i« -^ o„..„ „.,„,, ,, ;,,„„ , ,.. „, ,; ."■■■'■

;""' ";:''' ■"■•' "t" "■"''■'■ "'- '< 'v ».■„,. , .„,,, „„ ,,„,, „„.. j^' -

I.'' iiic iMciKiti- I assin<4- of Arthur :
'■Aft

to tl

T man\ yi-a,s tiic ways of beasts ami

men

icni, till at last h

e was an<rr\-. and v

.irrcw bad, and Clotc Sea

ery sorry ; and he

iirp talked

eould endure th

em n<

OF TIfF. COXT/XFNT

t''i-, darted downwan
Ljriintcd witli tlisjrii.st
.>k'-iiii llie bruiuhlcs
c two-proiij^'od sfjcai,
' "" 111'' luad, an.i
''''■^' At last, after

was followed |)y .1
dmon llaslied In^fon
!<■ <ni.'l -ri|) of the

lik'lit eraft rock, till
nip a wiiitofisl) als(,

I'xcitemoiu, and th,

'■ lent, thoujrh „,||.

We heap( I our

til our feet to tlu

Ih of these shores.

in upon our oar-,

lily it swelleti, died

I "(• heard in it .1

d saw them sitting

' 'liief tjiiide nuit-

•'" lie said th<\-

(-■ in these rofjions.

nv livinir iiad ever

liut, with that

•"'<1 partinjr the

erness. riien, as

were told quaint

,l; men and beasts

•'n,i,aia,L;e. In his

and tleree ; hut
and it shrank to
t-'ly ; but the on<
K-' a sorry place.
Itic tradition. It

t(-' Scaurp tallscd
endure them no

■f
.•J

lon;,rer. And lie came down to tli<' shores of the Kreat lake, and he made a .i,'reai
feast, all the i)easis camr lo it, but the men came not to the feast, lor they hail
becomi' altoL;<'ther bad, and flote Scaurp talked li the beasts very heavily. And
when the fe.ist was over he ^ot into his canoe, ,ind his uncli\ ihe (Ire, it Turtle, wilii

SI'ICARINC. SALMON BY NIGUI

I Ml i;i;s'ri( .' 'I

him, and went away over the t^riiat lake tow.ird ihe seitin.,' sun; and all the beasts
stood by the water, and looked after them until the\- could see them no more. .\utl
Clote Scaurp san-', ,ui.l the (,r(;at Turlle, as th< n went away; and the beasts stood
listening to tliem till they could hear tlumi no more. Then a -reat silence fell upon
them all, and a very stran,i,rc thin.; came to pass, md tlu- beasts, who imtil now had
spoken one tongue, were no more- able to understand e,!ch other. .\nd lhe\' fled apart,
each his own way, and nevc-r again have they met togctther in council. And Clottt
Scaurp's hunting-dogs g., up and down the world in se.irch of him, and men hear them
howling after him in the night."

The deliciousness of that salmon soothed our uneasy conscienc The remainder
of the voyage down, though lu.>curiou.s, was uueveuilul. We passed the Petapedia, a
tributary from the north which forms the boundary between New Brunswick an.l
Quebec; then the Upsahiuitch, from the south; and at last, having entered a

THE EAST/IRNMOST NZ/x,/,;

m I'

co.nury of ,rand hills and windin, valleys far witlulnuv,, w. reached the mouth of
the sw.ft Metapedia. niy^h to where the Resti^rouche n,...- , the sea.

The junction of the Metapedia with tl,e Re.tiKuud.e tal.es place in a vast park-
= .ke anM>Iutl,eat,-e, set wit), magnificent ..roves and d.ut.d thick with clumps of ti,..-

UN IHK H\V I IIAI 1(1^

!'\, \ '.";■ : '";■" ""■ ""'■'■ ■ ■■■"■'■>■ "-I - «i,n-,., „„-„„,„ . „i,r

1 '■ ■' 7''\""^ '^"^"•'■'"» "'-- -' »"-. I'v .. , ■™,„ „.,„■,, u„.

; '"■' "":' '""'" """" '"■■ -^ >'• "- '''■-"« "■■ '"N i„. S,:„„ ,,„,„ u„.

. ,u,,,™u „„. .,„, »„, , ., ,, ,„ , „„^ ,,,^^ ^ ^_;^,^^^^ .

: :, " '" t : ":"""■'"" ' - "■"' - ' '^ -' --- ■■-

""""' '■"'""'■ "■'■ "»"■- "' "■■'' '-■i'»i''"-. ."I.N- I,.- 1.,„. .„„.,„ ,. w.. :.„ ,„„

'- ■'■-:;;'■ '''- "■°""-- -< '-r-. .™.i u„. „„. , ,,,i,. ,,,„,„ ,„ .,„^ ,^,^^

,;■ ""°;^- "' "";"*'■'"" ■ "« »"'- -"■■'.•■» »l-i„« ,„ ,„.„- , „.„c in ,he

■""'.!"'" :""":'"■'■'■■ •■"" '" »--■ - ^-"h «■. on „„. ,,. „ex,

colonial fo,- CI,n,lK,m. ,i» f,„.l,i,|.|i„„ f„„„ ,„„k |„„„ ,„ ^,„_ ^^.^^^^^ ^, ^^

I he l,„l,. ,„„, .,( Ua,l,„„, I, ,«,„„if„l,y si,n,,„,l ,,„„,, „, „ „„„;„,„ ,^,„.

ocUc, „,„..„,. „ ,. ,,„u , ,„„„ ,j„ ,„ ,„ ,„„,,, ^^^^^^^^,^ ^^^^^^ ^^^

III", ■"■■'; '■"" , "■ '"■""■ '"" " "■ ™'"" l"l»..T-nning

OF TlfE CONriNENT

d the mouth of

in a vast park-
cliiinps of \!\<gvx-

:^t*'

'"S;-

'■■O,

tliroiin;li a cliff

i,L;ii whicli the

K-'cn from the

1 iloiihle, and

azure. l-roni

nt Iieyontl its

\\ !■ saw, too,

more remote

our feet lay

narble in the

tile side next

l)y the Inter-

ipacioiis land-
across which
(bster-canning
is above the

-a

RFSTlr.OLCHI-; K'.VKK,
FROM PKOSl'KCr HILI,.

river's month. As for
the Iol)ster-canning, the
processes are interest-
ing, but the surround-
ing odours are not sa-
voury. The lobsters
were for the most jiart
small, such callow young-
sters as the fishermen

would once have .scorned. At the present rate of destruction, the industry must very
soon perish, and our delicate lobster sala.ls become e.vtinct as the dodo. Hut the
other lion of the place, the NepisigLiit I-'alls, gave us tmmitigated satisfaction. The
river plunges down one hundred and forty feet, by four mighty leaps, into a carton
chiselled out of the solid granite. The basin at the foot is visited by salmon, who
here take grave counsel tog<:ther concerning this bar against their further progress up
the river. Much consideration has thus f.-,r availed them naught, and no\saln.on
knows the longed-for uppcM- waters. In the neighbourhood of liathurst, however, lob-
sters and waterfalls are not the sole attractions. There are the '■ l.hn-Tre,- " and the
"Nigadoo" silver mines. Since silver ore, very rich and workable, was discovered in

k !

T///t EASTHRMMOST RIDGE

me„t were oarly „,„| „!„„■„„,„ ,„„ , . ''''>'' ""<= "'tempts at settl.-

with the .„„.„„„, „::,;:,;^-; ■' ■'■^i"»«io„ .. t,. „.„.,„..«,„.„„

»' «» point: „,„, n„„,edi.,„, . f'T" "''»'»>"'"'te» »pan the t.i,, «„„,„,

"■e ^.■..- o. » «o,,H..„;::;:' I ::;, :t::, ■^'7'' ■- '-"-^-. ^-^ o,,..

'" i757 a pe„il„,c. visited tl,.. „.„ '"f^""™""- "'•" M"-' '"i"" Bcaubair.

settlement, and sweot it n.if ^c

»"rv,v„rs llcl ,„ ,|,„ Kt,,ig„„el,c. ,„ St lol.V , """™" ^'"-' '=»■

and ,„ M.„,„,„c„ol., .,„ ,|t. r-., t I l^la-l-now IMnco Kd.var.l Island^

*en,se,ves „ea. „„. „.,,., „,„,„„ „„ .,M", !; LTTT ^^''"^ "'"' """""="
I'atI, it, IJai, .Ua Vents, > " ^"'' "''■ °» "'•' '''^st name

'''"' ^- ■■ i......-.i possession, z.. ,;;;:: i;"'',"-''-'""^ ""•'■° "■■*«"•■'-'

-., J0in.,l soon af,o,,va„ls ,,v a M. ct ' ' ""' "" "•"'""
prontaUe trado in sa.nv.n „,„n-,i . ^ "'" "^"^ """" ''""'''!»' " -°«
K.^Intion I,,,,,.. „,„ ,:,,:'^ '■■"''■ "T '■'" ■'■'■"-•'■ '"" ""•" "- '^--"
M.cn,acs tooN sid,, ...it, „;, < , '" """" "' "- ■'^•- ■'"""■ """-^ ■"> T„= ^

»"-k<--. ....■ vossol, and ain.os, sncc7d , " '"""' "" «'""=K™'-

'"•"•■■ns on „„. eve of 7","'""'"' '" "...ni,n,- l.cr, „„„ a.ain were the

A. ..,e „,„,>.os of 7 '""7"" ■"""- "'™'- a ccnain M, Cas.sanctte,

-■'-"■■-..-:;:i »r ti::7,i: ;::7r-;;i:-7-^'-^°o°

« U„u,das,„„.„, „.itl, saw „* ^^^ 7 '"''"7"»' ''''"•« ■"='« '■*- Ncwcas.l.

"U ships. Two miles furtli

L'l-, on

the

opposite

OF THE CONTINENT

fever. Fortunately.
1 Ijy the capitalist ;
ernoon has become

■oug-h a barren and
John. About it
attempts at settle-
French met with
northwest branch
1 the twin streams
'habited, but once
ttery commandin^r
Pierre Beaubair.
istence. The {<i\y
Fdward Island^
^nts now swarm.
1 the Miramichi.
■- and established
s th^ iirst name

s from England
' landed on the
ition, numberinj
and Mr. David-
n-cloped a most
n the American

• trouble. The
lal houses and

• the)- resolved
ncil an Fnolish

the stratagem,
igain were the
\ented by the
tte.

perhaps 3,000

^ season, the

Opposite is the

low Newcastle

the opposite

.1 nre, is the town of Chatham, the commercial centre of the Miramichi district, half
hidden by a forest of masts ; and, perhaps it is not necessary to say, here also are
saw-mills. The river, at this point, more than twenty miles from the gulf, is nearly a
mile wide, and in depth less like a river than an arm of the sea. The ships are at
the wharves in places twelve deep. They are anchored in the channel. They are
everywhere, and from all lands. And hither and thither among them rush the tugs.

Chatham, though its population does not exceed 5,000, extends a mile or more
along the river's bank, and, from the water, creates an impression which a close
acquaintance will not quite bear out. The town piles up picturesquely behind the
spars and cordage ; some white steeples give emphasis to the picture ; and the highest
hill, to the rear, is crowned with the bald but impressive masses of the convent,
I^ishop's house, hospital, and R. C. schools. The streets are narrov/ and ill-cared for
■M\A the houses not, as a rule, in any way attractive. But a change may come with
the building of the Miramichi Valley Railroad, which will tend to break the supremacy
of the ■ ■ ■ -er kings, widen the range of trade, and, above all, give direct access to
the i*^ 1 markets, without transhipment at St. John, for the vast quantities of

fresh fish which are annually exportinl during the winter. This exportation of fish
packed in ice is a growing industry. I*"resh Miramichi smelts are to be met with even
in the markets of Denver.

From Newcastle a hasty trip up the Northwest Branch took us into the heart of
the salmon country, amid sternly beautiful scenes. The river breaks over numerous
low, shelving falls, below which halt the salmon on their way up stream, On this trip
trout were ignored. In one famous pool, with a "Jock Scott" fly, which took when
all others failed, we killed two splendid salmon. Some three weeks after our visit to
this pool, a veteran salmon-fisher of this Province, killed here, with a medium trout rod,
a twenty-eight pound fish !

Returning to Newcastle, we took stage for Fredcricton, with the object of travers-
ing the line of the proposed Valley Railway. The post-road leads up the Southwest
Branch, through good farming lands, past bright little villages, with their inevitable
saw-mills, and over beautiful tributary streams. Sometimes we saw the river, fo-' miles
of its course, black with a million feet of logs, packed in booms, extending along both
shores, leaving only a narrow way between for the passage of tugs and small sailing
craft. At Boiestown, a quaint, still village of one stree , the loveliest of nooks for
lotus-eating, we stayed the night. A portion of Boiestown bridge, picturesque but not
in good repair, is shown in the sketch. The river, up which we look, is divided and
choked with wooded, grassy isleti- innumerable, whereon the tiger-lilies lord it superbly
over the meeker weeds. At Boiestown the road forsakes the Miramichi, and sfrikes
across an elevated table-land for the head of the Nashwaak valley. Here, more plainly
than ever, we trace the ravages of the awful conflagration which in 1825 swept over

II n

II ^

r^/£ EASTERXMOST RJDGE

rocei

^ "

OF run coxt/nf.nt

T. CHATHAM.

li 'iasin, from the
Bai-tlbooue, and
lie hiLrhlands, an
'itl square miles,
"an has covered
It dead, ,<^hastly,
sar.s little but a

to the .St. John,
■r with harvests,
hards, the river
'i. lh(? elms so
ces so melt in
d -oes hy the
'airness of the
at low rottnfe,
'^'^ <int hither
lie T,n-. l-he
■d iimIcs. We
l'<'ini of \ic\v,

iial once more
Ken iiebecasis.

jrt^

7y//r I^ASTEHNMOST R/Dcn

■""I I'i'l its JiminisheJ ivators f,„.o,v, II ^ |i„i„ , , ,

Nan,c. „, „„„.„„ „,„„^ „„ ,^^,,,_,, „„'„':::";■;' '"^ "'-« ■»- o, S„sse,.

■'-y - j„„,.,„. ea. :;,:,'"';■ '; """'^"'' '"*^"--' "«i-<'--

"-k» n,ul ,n„c„i„..,„„„, „, ,„„ ■ *"■';"-";« ••• -"way cat.,, a place of car.

•;<' ^e„a„i„,. . .„,, :, ,. „;:r ; ,: r ;:;r7"-- °' '"■■"» - co„.„

■I- «a,io„ ,,c ,„ul. I„„,„l, i„ a very Tnl „ " T °''°'"- "" "'''^ '- '<■"««
■•an.3. Hotels are prin.uivc, a„u\ „ "e " ' ""'""" ""^" "'°"""'' ■■"'-"-

n..»o, „„.,a,.,ac,or, T„e .r: , e Xerir"' '": ""'""'■ "°-"^^^' »■" ^Vc.d„„
»-.l.er deeper ,„i„ „,■„, , ,„„,,,„„„ ,'7 "' '' """• °" " 'a-V <lay. a„d in dry

■■■ Cairn .„a. M„„„o„ co,„d .J Id,':; t'.Z'";:' ''"""■ ''*' "^ "^ "^ '-"'
appearance, is g„i„g ,„ ,,„, „ ,^^, ' '■ - certainly lively, „„j .„ „„

"!>■ and shop, and factoric,. The ci.i„.„ , ^veryvhere houses are goinj

-« -„,s ,„ he tolerahly „ ^J | I ''T i:'"-"' '"^ '" ■"^•-'-». and th!
'■lack snroke, rises the tall ,„,„, „r , '^ """°'''' ""' <" "'« ci,y. spouth,,.

r^»" ■ » '.^» 'ace in ador:-.: 1:^^:1^"' "'■'"■ ■'■= '^■■"■'"' «"-

;:'*'-.-eeds,„,„n,da,hip,,po„,|,e's|,o:

:; ": """ '; °: "- "-»" »■-., are ..ashed
""!> l>y a sea of coffee-colonred „„.e, and the river is
a ">ca.,re threa.l „, „„„Jesc„,„ „„;,, ,,„,„,, '

LOOK.NC; LP SOUTHWEST MIRAM.CHI.

ill

-*W

'^.,

■i^^

OF run CONTINENT

ng town of Sussex,
trial to tlu; memory.
i,^ince, Pctitcodiac—
litre, a place of car-
trains ever comin^r
But when he leaves
^en thousand inhab-
melike, old VVcIdon
y clay, and in dry
3ne was ever heard
y lively, and to all
houses are goinjr
liemselves, and the
tli^' city, spoutinfr
tlie faithful Monc-

m
1

lull half-mile from the spot where the ship is on the stocks. but he knows that when
lir wants it the water will be there. Twice a day the Petitcodiac takes its rank
.imong j;real riv<;rs. After the wide, rusty-hued mud-llats have lain vacant during the
liin^; hours of \.\\c ebb, their gradual slopes gullied here and there by headlong rivu-
li'lH, there is a distant, muffled roar beyond the marshes and the dykes. Presently a
I'lw white bar of foam, e.xtending from side to side of the channel, appears around the
bend. Almost in a moment the channel is half-filled, the Hats disappear, the flood is
pouring into the creeks, and behold a mighty river, able to bear fleets upon its bosom.
Monclon's present desire is for docks, which she will probably get. Then, having set
her heart upon becoming a seaport town, in spite of the slight inconstancy of the
I'elilcodiac, a seaport town she will in all likelihood be.

THE EASTERNMOST RJDc.

OF rilF. CONTINENT

j^jORSE adventurers, storm-loving Vikings, ex-
ilored the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia
from Cape North to Cape Sahle four liundretl years
before Columbus turned incpiiring eyes upon the
\\'(,-stern Sea. Kc'laudic and Norwegian talcs tell
of bootless wantlering far from home, nameless
lands, — lands sunny and fertile, bordering upon
waters blest with perjjetual calm, --but very far
away. All honour to the unremembered ])i(Hi(;ers,
strong of arm and stout of heart, who, (leeing
from a victorious tyrant, sought freedom umler the
gloomy skies of Iceland and on the lonely waters of
the ocean. That old discover) of the New World
survived oidy as a dream ; the record of it was
lidden away amid myths and romances. Actual
•European settlement was made in Cape Breton,
near Canso, as early as 1541 ; and before that time
the fisheries of Canso and other places in the vi-
cinity had attracted the attention of the French.
One old mariner is spoken of who had made forty-
two voyages between Canso and his home in France,
prior to 1605.

1^ i.

THE EASTERNMOST ridqe

and found \x then m? «.,. c,., i •• -n

"'V l»-l».' .. a„. ns „„„ n,,n.c„ bv, , ^ '," ""''' "" '"""• ''^^'-U-.

•" "- ^-^'l" r „„: „-l;, /i;" "■ "'" ""■ '""■ ->■■« '- ".-a..

Karon ,1,, |.,,ri |,„,| ,,„,,,,

only soo,I rc,„l,i,„ f,,„„ ,,i, ,„„ „,.,^ ; ;" . '■•-'""■; '■• "I-'- S.-.l.le ,sl„„,,. t„. „„

vcri,aWc. cas.i„, ,„ ,,„, , „„. ^^:^'' '-^ "'""•^ "- '<■'■ "" .!„. .,,»„,.,, ,„„, ,

s«an,an from fa,„i,„.. To>v„rJs ,l„, cl„,c '," 'th' s'" """?' "''"'' ""'"'' " "'"'""'•■''"'■•I
in colonkatio,, „.a, ,„,,,„ ,„, ^,, ' ' '■^><-™'l> <'-nlMry ., Krim cxpcrimm,

"-1. ..-o „„„dr«<, c„„VK-,« ,„.,„ ,,>„;: *• "'"" "'■"' ''"■" «■" ■" AnXTic,
■o fuini his |>r,.„„„. ;, „„,L , ■ ,"' "■■ •»" ''"■ 11"™. I.N. while ,ryi„..

"•...rn to ,l,oi,. „a,iv„ l„,u| „,,„,. „„ ' " " '" --'"■a"'"!. ST.aliJ,--.aK„ „„ou„l, ,„

•'■•^ a..c™,.. .o c„,„„:., sa* 1:,:,., ;,::'■'; "■"■■"""■" -'■' "■•»*" '-. t,„„ ..„„.,,

or tllTO „,ii,„ i„ „,ij,|, ., "- '"■"! M'o. IS iwoiity-six ,„il,, |„„^,. | ,„,,
'°"K. T,,. a,„„.s. c„„s.a„. : ,:'3 " ""■"- ," -" »--■ '''^^^^' .- L,..s

lay .l..ir .,.,,, a,„, ,„,„„ „,,,, , '■"'■ H- ■"'■""'' °' "«' '""I «a".".

».^als. Sal,l„ Is|„„.| ,„„;„ ,,,,,.,' "■ ' ■*" ■•' Kalhcrin. p|,,cc „t vast ,l„ck. ,.,

arc a.,„. ,„,„ „„„,:, „„ ' : : ":::;"'r'™"" "■•"■ ■" "-" -^ ■^'- "^ ■n..^-:

A Spanisi, „„. .,„ „,„ ; , „ "l- T" "' "" '"■'""" '"■-■• "" "-= -<l'
lighthouses. fog-l,„„,», f,„.b,||, ,„ , „,, ■ ". '" """■■'■ ''"»'"•» !<-- l...ar.Tc.„cii„,. .,s

'=ri„«a. ,„o,„i,„, ...o,:,:!! , ::;::"■';■;: V"'- t'"" "'■ -"" -"•™''"^' -'-

has robbed Sable Island, ,hi, dr..-,rv „, T , ""■' "■'" "' "'" f-v"'"".^".

terrors. ''"'"> ™"l»»' "' »'"■ l>"".i"ion. of „,orc .l,a„ half i,s

When De Mon.s and Champlain explored ,h,. M,„„, . ,-
'».".<! .ha. i. was ,p„ke„ ,„ ,,, ,„.. Indians -. , """"""'"■ '" "^'- "■'^>'

abounded in what .be Indians priced n,„„ bi,.hK ^ M^ ' " ""'"" "' "''■■""■■" "
the waller fur-bearin,- animals. We „•!,„ b,. ■■ ' ,""'°"'' ""''""• l"'""''S« and

have ample. p™„fs „,, a,,,,, , ,,, ; ^; »•;-"-' 'he Micn.ac and ,be Malieee.

.h, eb.ef ,h,n„s of ,he ancien. inonn.ains.

-■»^.:

OF THE CONTINENT

,'luhou.s«! warned hi,,
i vessels with a hm,
ncl the Squirrel, s< ,
■'its. and on a dark
Ik' waves, Sir Huni-
" 'oils. 'CouraKe,
'lii'f.v's last messa^r,

fil'le Island, bti-^ th.
the desolate spot, ,1
i<Tiy a shipwreckcil
•' .^rini experiment
' '^L'nt to America
' i'l-i'cd on Sahl.'
1, l)iit while tryino
icross tlie Atlantic
nd the rage of an
for existence. At
-t-'a,L,r,;r enotifrj, to

for. Thus ended
iiiles long, by two
!<(-'■ thirteen miles
lis, and surround
sea fowl gather,
of vast flocks of
Shetland. 'IMK-re
^ sf'nt up every

on the.se santls.
■• Hvery winter
heart-rending as
! preventing suf-
the Government
■c than half its

tlie precious things of \\\v lasting hilU, and the precious things of tiie earth and the
deep that c(uu;iietl> lii'ueath," Champlain, with l)e Monts, explored th(! coast, visiting
the harbors all round to Annapolis Hasin. The liay of I'undy was named Haie
l''ran(;aise ; a naini- wliiih it n-iaincd tlil the I?ritish took permanent possession of th«!
coimtry.

On board De Monts' nhip was an active and intelligent priest from Paris, an ardent
student of nature. This i;n()d prit!St, Aubrey by name, was wont to land with tlie
exploring parties, in order lo take note of the: llora and fauna of llu; country. At St.
Mary's Ikiy he landed, ImiI failed to return lo the ship. Days and nights were spent
in searching for him, vvilluMil surcess. The ex|)editi()n was partly Catholic, partly
Protestant; and tlie last person seen witli AuIjh'v was a Protestant, an arcUmt contro-
versialist. I'or a lime the grim suspicion cre[)t into the minds of Aubrey's friends that
he had met with foid pl.iy at the hands of his keini antagonist; but after seventeen
days he was foimd on the shore, very weak and wasted, having subsisted on herbs and
berries.

The explorers crept along, by creek and cape and headland, till tliey came to a
marvellous gap between two hills, offering a vista into the bowels of the land. Enter-
ing, they fouuti themselven in a placid harbour, very beautiful, and most inviting to
men who were weary with the rough buffeting of the Bay of Fundy, Poutrincourt
breaks out into sim[)|e elu(|lience : "It was unto us a thing marvellous to see the fair
distance and the largencHH of it (the Hasin), and the mountains and hills that environed
it ; and I wondereil how ho fair a place remained desert, being all filled with woods,
.seeing that so many pine away in this world who coidd make good of this land if
only they had a chic^f goveriKU' to conduct them thither." " We found meadows, among
which brooks do rini without number, which come from the hills and mountains
adjoining." "There is in the passage out to -a a brook that fallelh from the high
rocks down, and in f.dliiij^ dinperseth itself into a small rain, which is very delightful
in summer."

'1 his is our first aiithenlic glimpse of what is now and long has been "Annapolis
Basin." The praise lavished on its loveliness is not immerited. Steamers now daily
come and go through Digby (liit, the narrow and picturesque entrance. The l?asin
itself is rimmed with hilln, which, in the stillnesss of the morning and (^ven-
ing are reHected in iN bosom, Hetwe.ii the hills and the water's edge are
ranges of white cottagwK, long lines of orchards, gardens, cultivated fields— [)roofs
enough of the presencf! of an industrious and prosperous population,

Poutrincourt obtained a grant of this region and founded the town of Port Royal
on the north side of the river, several miles above the present town of " Annapolis
Royal." For a time the jilije colony lived right merrily, as if there were no plagues,
famines or wars in the world. 'I'hcy toiled and rested when it suited them ; they formed

n
n

«4

Tiie eAurERA-Moxr ridgu

|i 111

la,ti„„ friendship,, will, ,1,0 l,„„a„s; ,|>,.v ,.,„|„„.,l ,l„.

lis Kood as c„„l,l ,„ f„„„.| in ,,,„,, „,.,, , ' "'■"■" '' "' '»''" »''" --M mnk. ,,rc.„d

^-"--™.- -.,. „„., d....,:;!; ,':,,;:,':,;::::•--■'' "■•■^-■■" '■>

I'— ^ Tl„,. had a „„„d „„rc- of win., -.nd „„. , '" ' " "■•""

-pfi' «i....in« ,i«„s „, .,„„,.,„,, .,„. ;,„'," '"'■; - '-"■■ Ml. .1,,.

TT "' "'■• '■"-' <"-'^'y -re ah , ■,,:,„;:; '■ ,'■:■"■ '■-" -'

half .1,,. v,.ni,„„ „„.,. I„.„„„h, i„ u-,s ,, >' *■■""' ''"■'■■ "■■»■ '"™'l«

™.i.- a ,u.„. ,.„,„;. „, , ,:, l; , ,. v'T ":"■'■ '"" '■""""■'■"■■ -- -■■•' -

-""»-«'. "' wh,. ..,a,n. i;,t,„ :/■"'':' " 7-'""' "' '•" " '"■•'■<

'""-.I all ,h.. r,.„. A, din,„.r ,hc s , "-'",■""' ""''"'< '"' ""■ '<^'y. a n,„.

^1- er. s,aff and. and „ , , T" l' ''"'' '"' '"" ""• """ "'<'''■' °"

Happies, win.,.. ,.eH,aps, i„ a„ ,hes,, co^.H.:." ' "'"" "' ''"" ""'"' '"'•"-'"

W <• cannot follow niinnt,.!,. .1 r

'<> 'lie n..,r,., „f ,h,. „,.,„„,„ .„„„„ . , " '"'•- '■'-■'"'-■'>«-■"• "' Ai'.Hii-.. of i6„;.,,roa.l,.

»l>l-e , ,a,„.,- „„,„,„,,„^ ■' ' '■"■" '" -^-'1- He lei. i, „,„, ,„ , „,.,^.^

In I'>io l'.).itriiic<>;,n, niih .|,,. i.-;,,„..
«* I - a-v„„„,a„i,..l h, ,,.,„i '•■""""""■ '■'■'""""' '° "'« '!'■" I- l",...d so

-' "'■"■< M.™.« .-...„, „„„ a n r; "T'"i "'°"' ""°" """■"•' >"- "■« -

J-l-« C „. O.i,,, „„,„,;.,,. ""•';"' '"'' ""■ ••"'" ">"'■ n re„K.n,he.

Mined in c„nse,.,.,..„:d;o„„d , . , """""■ '"' "»" "- '•"' ' - "■ A.-adia

- -H«l-e of i,,..,; an ,J : "; T" '" '""'" ■'■"■" '"'■ ''"'' l«"-«

■ »' '■- '<■:■'- l.e .,,on.s 1 " , : '::;■' -"-■'' ■'■■■ ■■ l-. a .ran.

^»".M on. I.e .M„n.s. and .hen „. Ki 1 . -a ^d 'L T,':"- , """ ^ ='-"-'"'

excoption of |'n,-t Royal. ' " "'^" ''''"'*' province, with the

hvil tiniL'.s wcri' ncir In r

-"- of Virginia, swein 'down ' !' irl" '"""' ^^^''"' —--nod by the Gov-

CO.-KI find of the French pioncvrs ' H. f ' 7 """'" '""■°^"' '""''>■ •"^''"-'■^^' ^e

view with nienco..., son of Pouiwnl^nr t ''^""' 'T' ''"''' '" '''' '' ^"^'"^ --
'hem. They accuse.l .ach other f ,', "" '" ■-^'' '' '"■'"'" "'""■'"■^^ '^^-''^veen

""^^

OF I III-: n\\ii\i:xr

'"•■'•'I its inevitable
toil Id make bread
rind their u^rain hy
' to utilizf! water
'Is each ; hm tlie
" I'iiit. I'isli and

■ liu'ir new friends
li'i \\as moved to
' "f fifteen chief
"' 'lay, and enter-

■ "itli napkin on
lie quests followed
y a new steward
>r the next feast.
Koyal Hasin— the

)me little colony.

'"I to remove to
liad news from
of 1607, .t^reatly

iil"^ and IK) foes.

now for a wider

pot he loved so
!■'« u'as tlx; vet-
\vt!! remember
dian in Acadia
i.i,'^'^ and {|iieens
t hail a <rrant
e Citiercheville
--ince, with the

J by the Gov-
^ay of Fundy,
'' memorial he
stormy inter-
nin<r between

■ An Indian
faith should

make war on one ar.uther. Mow often has that difficulty occun. d ,„ oth-r ,„in.K since
.0.3! Foutrincourt abandoned his l„.|oved scenes forever, keturnin, .0 |..an,,. he
•I'-'l '" battle in ,6.5. Ihe two ex|.,.diti<ms of Ar^all from Virginia to destru> the

ANN.MUI.IS IKOM IHK OLD lORT,

l-rench settlements on or near the Bay
ol I'undy were the tirsl acts of a series of trayic
conllicts between Great Britain and I'rance, which
knew but short intermissions until the final triumph of
British arms upon the Plains of .Abraham
Annapolis Basin, so peaceful now, was the sc ■ of many a hard tussle between
t e contending races. The hills echoin. to the whistle of the steam engine, the rum-
Mm-, of railway trains, or the s,.nal guns of steamers, often echoed the thunder of
war After Arcjall's destructive swoop, a Scotch colony can,e. but failed. The French
tned a,a,n with fair prospects of success, but an Fnglish fleet visited them and left
nothm. behunl but ashes. It is a sadly n^onotonous story for many Ion. years -
sunshme and hope and then sudden hurricanes of war "

Mi-ourt bequeathed his rights in Port Royal to youn, Charles de La Tour, a

;nan of rent u-l<al>le sagacity, courage, and enterprise, ^he most noteworthy figure

'-■'■■ -n 1. Acadian period of Nova Scotia. For a tin. he lived at Port .oval'

n en, a out ,6.6, he ren.oved to a convenient port near Cape Sable, and built \

fort there wh.ch !,e held for 1-rance. and which he named Fort i'ouis

Charles La J our is renn.nbered for his chivalrous loyalty to his country- in the
fa... of severe temptation. His father had been captured by Admiral Kirke and taken

I I 'I

^ iiE IwlSTHRMMosT NI/JUH

•I'' ■•! prisoiifM- to Knirland. I,,
■' f''\v months h,. was ready
'" ,t(ivc up his ,„vn rountrv
""'I stTv,. Ki„o Ja„u:s. t-
Hliom he was introduced and
"ilh wliom hf hecanie a fa
V'lirite, and niarnV.l an Kn-
Klinh lady: an.l hrino madr
.' l'f.ron..t of Xova Scotia,
'"■ '•'•tiinu'd to .Ara.lia in th.-
''^"■'■•■■-t -f l-;n-land, promis-
'"«• tliat his son also would
•I' "iicf submit to the Knjrlisj,
"■"""■ He had with him
'"<' armed \cssels, and, ac-
•"mpanied hy his wife, ar-
I'ived at Port l.atour. H,.
K'ld his son how the Kin^
"f iMij^dand had honours in
^<"|-«' for him if he would
""')• J^ive uj) the Fori; he
'"axfd, he promised, he en-
li'<Mted, he threatened; hut
•i" in vain. He even attacked
•'"It Louis with what force
'"' '■""''' I'rino to hear upon
'• ; l>iit the attack was bravely
''•■.""'^'■<1. Th.' fath.'r, cha-
Unned, disappointed, dreadin;;
'I"' I'linishment of treason if
'"■ '"11 into tile hands of the
'''''"<''. and jishamed and
flffilid lo return to lui^-jand,
llil'ilened with ids .Scotch co-
"lIlMts to Port Royal. After
.1 lime, when C'harh^s {...Tour

'•'•■•!" it? (luift

possession ol

live near Fort L

'Hiis. in Port l.ati

Aradia, I

ir. but neiilxr |

le invited his fath

I' nor Ih'h wife was

ever allowed

,n %

OF THE CONTINENT

nnn- to Kiiirland. I„
"iiths he was rcadv
ii|> Ill's (iwn roiintr\
'■<' Kinn James, t..
was introduced and
m lie hccamt' a fa-
nil married an Hn-
■ •■ and i)ein,o matle
"f •\'o\a Scotia,
■'I t" .Acadia in the
f I'-ii.L^land. promis-
liis son also \v(>nld
bniit to tilt; En^riish
If- had with him
I vessels, and. ae-
I'V his wife, ar-
'oi't l-atoiir. He
'II how the Kins^
1 had honours in
liiii i(" he would
tip the Fori: h<;
Iironiised, he en-
threatened ; hut
He e\cn attacked
with what force
n,!^ to hear upon
ttack was bravely
I'lie father, cha-
I'ointed, dreading
■lit of treason if
he hands of the
ashamed and
nil to iMi.nland,
I his .Scotch CO-
•t Royal. After
^'hiirles LuTour
i'osscssion of
\ited his father
IS ever allowed

to enter the Fort. In the days of his deep poverty and disorrace, Charles Fa Tour
told his Fncrlish wife of his ^rief on her accoimt and his willingness that she should
reliirn to her old home with its peace and comfort. She replied that she had not
married him to abandon him m the day of advt-rsity that whene'er he should take
iier and in whatever condition they were placed, her object would be to lessen his
'j,nvA. it is pleasant to learn that their closing years were peaceful and hapjiy.

The Scotch colony existed in Port Roy.d for about ten \ ears. Disease made
fearful havoc in their ranks; and llu- Indians did the est of the deadly work. Two
or three survivetl and joined the P'rench. Phe little town of Port Royal was taken
and retaken over and over again by contending adventurers.- P'renchmen against
Prenchmen. or New Fnghuul Puritans against the I'rench. in 1654 Cromwell sent a
lleet to recover Nova Scotia from the I'Vench, and Port Royal was captured but not
destroyed. Charles II. restored it to French rule. It was captured in 1690 by Sir
William Phipps, who came suddenly from Boston with three war vessels and eight
hvmdred men. The defences were in a deplorable condition. Phe fort contained eigh-
teen cannon; hut there were only eighty-six soldiers, and no defence was attempted.
The Governor of .\cailia. .M. Menneval, though present, was ill with gout. Phe people
offered no aid to the soldiers. So the shrewd old Governor made the best terms he
could, which were highly honourable. Phipps, however, found prete.xts for breaking
ihe articles of caiiitulation. made the Governor a prisoner of war, and permitted the
wholesale plunder of the place.

This year the much-vexed Acadian capital was visited by two pirate vessels with
ninety men on board. They burned all the hou.ses near the fort, killed some of the
inhabitants and burned a woman and her children in her own house.

Fort Royal was then given up by the l->ench authorities until Nov. 26, 1691,
when ViUebon resumed possession. In 1707 repeated but fruitless attempts to contpier
it were made by strong but ill-managed expeditions from Massachusetts. The French
defenders fought with wonderful skill and gallantry,— at the same time complaining
bitterly of the neglect with which they were treated b\ the King's government. Three
years afterwanls the New I-ngland colonists, aided bx the British Government, sent a
force consisting of foin- regiments of colonists and one of Royal marines, (jueen Anne
largely aided the expedition out ot he-- own purse. Phe invadiM's were w<-ll etpiipped
lor th(Mr work. ,\ sturdy veteran, General Nicholson, had supreme charge. Port
Royal was in no condition to rt^sist. Soldiers and civilians were poor and discontented.
Governor Subercase had only about three humhvd men on whom he could depend,
while the invader ha.l more than ten times that numixM-. The siege continued si.x days

when Subercase capitulated. (iarrison and i.>«ii iw.r.,il,. ,. .,1 ^ : _f

starvation. N

ison

)f the Queen. lie left a ga

changed the name of i'ort Royal to . liniapolis Royal,

Mi
P

cil

»|!
|l \

m lionour

rnson o

f t

wo huiKi

rixl

marines ami two humlred and fifty

:1 V<

P I

It i'-i

yV//S /^:ASTE.RN,yosT RIDGE

^•-w lM.olan,i v<,l„nt,.,.rs in char.-. „f ti,,. plur Tl,

Knell niissionaru's I'lic \ r
'^"■" to procun. tinib.-r for .vbuikiin.. th. fort r'' 1 ^ '^ ^-'''" ^"^

''•'- '-nH>. with ,n,,ian alii,. ^A^^T'^'^''^'''''''''^^''^^^'-^^--
^rcat ,.cni--l„. i,....| ,,, ,^.^^.^„^„,^ '^44. Annapohs uas a^ain n,

'^^ -"■ -- n, ,;S,, .,.n ,.: An^n.an ' ", "^ ^'^":"'' ■'"'"■ '"'' ^"""^' -" --''
"i^^'n. cap,un..l tin- fort spik,,, „„ " , , "'"''' '"'^' ^''^ '^^'-■>' "-"''-t cover ,„

^"- '^"-'-^-'' t,,.. i,o...:: :,:::,'"^"'^' '"■ "^^-^^-^'^ ^'^ ""■ '^'-'^-"-- --

^'" " iK'iits content
lo-day no scene is less iik,.K ,,. s,,,, ,

' »• ""'-.K „,-,n.,,, ,,„„ „:,,.„„„,:,':„;:■"■ "■"," ;'■■" "■■-»■'"' »"»- •"- «...-

'■^'■'' - ...„,,.: .::::;:;;::'"■'';'--" ''''"»---

<».-.ll.-.l I, ,1,.: ..arii,., „„,^„ ^ . . ,. "'■" ""■"''^ ■!"■ "-■">»■ S,'a..:»ay. I,i„|,, c,;,

^ --.......„..„ :;/::;:::t:;:vr:,r'- '; -■■"^■'--'>

hundre.i ami f.ftv feet l,i,.h and on H , '"' ''"' "'"'''' ■"•^ ^''-^

■"" »'«•>■ '■■>- •'■',„ ,„„.;; ;.;";, *„:;;:" »;"'- '■ ■ - .-^^.i .- «>■,: ,„.„.,„,

^ '^'77 --"••' "■■^■"■...^a,,,M::,:;::::::r;:::,:; ':.-'^^"— ■

't =n .ielicacv or fl.-.v,.,,- a . .. ' p-'feaion. a.

{ear K'

ac)- or (I;
iver ininl.le:

i\()i;r.

A f.

<•« miles I)

li inl

lo\vn fri

•yomi J)i<,|,

'111 the

'>■. alon;^ th

surpasses

'onth .Mount,

(■ <d-e of th,. H;

isin,

'111 lielueen bold and

picluresqiie

OF THE CONTlNEN'i

cost New E:ij;lan

'"'■'It This prove 1

was still in tile f,,i

ans, l,„t tlicir fFforis
-^ i-cfiised even for
Jest in the yjirrison,

■ ■-'•nie tmiiblcsom,.
<h'i- iiKuh' prisoners,
ts .L^arrison to sac
'"■11 iM-ance at lasi
pojis was ayaiii in

■ and (h'terniination
:ist soLuul or touch
^in under cover oi
<■ 'jlotk-Iiouse, and

' '^asin, tiiese gar-
lic ays. I-:veii the
1 aspect of peace,
of the vales anc
halls are turnec
souvenirs of the

oyaj^er enters its
't of the i;ay of
iiiil th(,- ra,!.,re of
■vay. I)ioi,y Gut
'-■orye's Channel)
K' north are si.\

to live hundred
niit, and is ver)
1 anion-; chorr\
<irt duriiiir siun-
nists from Jfali-
"i.^''\' to taste

liini sui-passes
e of the liasin,
rind picturesque

inar.q;in of Annapolis Basin, and the
pastoral repose of to-day are in
l)Ieasant contrast with the troubletl

times that are <^

one.

nnapolis Ro)nl rejoices in its

which an amjjle market is now secure

il in Londor

growinjn
Digb)' is

e.xport ol
famed for

apples, for
its " Digby

• 1

Il I'i

I hickciis "

^■///:- /z\IS-r£A>Aj/c)sr RIDUE

at ill,
■ •'' ''"• ^'"i-th .Mountain

""■'■ I'lan a liu,,

""^'^'•"i-^ Its sm..k,..l luTrin^., ••bloaters" I,, I 1 .

■'"'"■ - '^ ' ■'■'« ..™, :;::,.»:; 'V "™' """ "-

'■- -» ' K., .::l.,:;::;;r;'-; -"—'"--

/::, ::;;;:t:;;:: •:;7'' ■'• ' • '■-•'-•>-.,,..„

T,„. „,.,.,,;> ;Vr ■"""■"■"""■-■>"' Halite.

-'•■ ■■■■KM,,,;.,,,:-,::;:::':::;;;-!;-'' -'^- «■„,.,,„ „„_,_,

""-'■> ■■!■• ■■!■ .^' i.a,, „.,,,, ;,„:.;: ;":-" T'-"- ' > ■ ■-, .,

■'■■■■"'.^ -■";,,,,, „,,„ ,,„„,,, .,,,„„ .„ ■; - ""■"■ »■;■ »,a-,™l, „a,c„,„, ,,,, „,,„

--'.";:::::::::*::':::. -"""-' '->■»-..< .„,.,„'

"■" "' ■,--!«. ».„! ,1,,.,, ,-,,„,»,.,„„;,„„ ,,.^„,„.,,

""■■'■'■«' "' 111" l',.,>M„,., A ,d,,„„, „. ' , , ■■' ^•■"■■'■all^ a,-„„s„l

"'«'■ I.-' '..■™ ,1.1,. ,::::"" • '■■'■ "-'-'■'•'^ >^ -". "«■ .™o,.

"'""■•^. ■■■■■■^^■i.> ■.!.., -,,,:':,;■. :t-, "■'""■""-■ •'■'"■'•--.■

'^"'-"->'. .■■■■.i.«. a„„ „»,„::,:::■";-": •' —""■"<"

'" '" '"It th.. cxprdil.on, ,

Jiitrn.iin- cini-r.uus ^vrr,
I'K'iitiis ali.i- tli<
' li'.iriii

'itm<'-t ardour. J'arliam.

"t Mi-.-intcl /;4o,cxH,

'" '''■ 'oiivcvtMl to the

colony, maintaincl for twelv,

lihir.i
lill.'d I,

1 1-

^ ">'■ '••'n>l and for hshin.- ,11 n M, ' impl.m.MUs fo

— i-in ™,. 1..M „,/ ,; ^■^'™- "^ ""• '^n-" <-v..nn„.u. S,

"V ■'" '■a.-i- thron,. ,„„, , '" '" " ^""'^ '""" '"" "---' transports ...,-,

'- -,.rs d... .7l,.. ■'"■'■ ''''''^^ ^ '-'•"■ -Ws.

"'"'" "■" "•'■'^t,'-n shor,. of th,. harlonr ,n 1

"""-'"' "•■'""•• '•^"' - '■<• i'<.ns.d ,.fo „ i::"""^-"^'

""'"' ''"''>'•-• --'^ '-for,., rnd.r ,1„ 1 7''' --''-•■

ti-v H,.ar,.d :,...,. „ , "'<■ l-ad-rslnp „f .lunr

vvoii; viw..nn,iisly. l-iv,. t
""' f'-" "f them had han
-lallant \oun- (io\,.rnoi

^"-ai^iu stnvts. crossing .ach oth.r „ • " '"'' ""^ ^' """>'-• '"

^ — "~ p..i-.-.,i,-, »i,i, i,i„,t.„„„„,, „, . ■ ''■"■'- ■■■■■" '"""«'•' <• i.,„.„„.

•'■' -■■■- , I ::,:,:::';:'"■ ' '-'"■' ""'-■■"« ■-.

'"■' "-■■■ n,. , ,i„, ,„ „ ,„,„, '7'"'' :"■" "•■■■"'™'l »,^->». Il.an I,,,,.,

^-'■"••■■M ui,i„„„„K „„:,„^ „:: : ' ,'"■■ iw- a„, ,„,.,„„. ,„„.

■■■■ , «..j ,„:,:: ":" '"- ' n..' a,:,,,,.,, ,.,,„„ ,

■ "■ '"■"': ""'"'"• ' ■'■■■- »■■■■■ .i,i> „„.

■ '"" "" '"'"■■■•' -■' "- '.a-,., ,,„. ,„,,

II
fricndK

'I' foliisioiis ocdirnd.

1-*;^^-,

:^5^

I t ;

iiH

I -. '■'it

If 1

■•«

7V/^^ y^^iSTjU/i^VA/Osr RJDUE

capuvi,, «„,„ „„„ j„,„, ,, ;"^ "■='■-, l""""'' »"<l whole f„„;„|,, ,„,,„, „^

--•'^- ™' » .->• Ton, »..,:;;,': """"' ■'■'"'- "- -■"- "■ -

■I"' -.^l«T, of d.eir ,,„„,„. ~ ""■"■ ■•••"■"^■".■-■n consuming i,

-.vice „„ „-,,a, i, „„,. ,,„,„„ ,, ;. ' ■' 'I-™. ™...l. \y<: l,e„ „, ,he ,i,,, J,-,,,,',
'"-, .■,„,;,.,,.,,„„„, , ,, ,„„, '"■"' ''""''■■ ^'^ I'.....'" C,,„rc„ „,„, s,. »,,,,.

»^"''^ '- ^ ." ^.-...-.,.,.r. !:.,;;,:■■;:, "";r",''''"''"'-^' " "■- ^« » .'-'"*.•.■.

«»«o„ H„,ai, ,„„„„,,, „, ,„. ,„„„„ „„,„„,,,,„■;■;,,;■'"";; "'■"■■ -"i "» .m-..cos „,

^1- ..ones of i, »,.„„. fo ,„ „ „ ' "" " ""; " --'» "■ ■...« Cay, „, „u,e,

' ■•' '- '-'. ..».. ...™,.a ...,;,':',:;:.;;' ' "'" "--^ *'"■" '"^ * »^-"-".

in." .. Sister of Mercv i„ .„., „|j -„„. ' Tl "" " »''''' '■°™" ''""'' ""kI" .ip<--..

"• .Soo. a. .,,0 ,„a,l, end „, „,„ „;„;■ ,, . '", '""■■";" ';o™."."cnt ,-lo,„e ,vas ereo,,,
™..-.. .-.-o.., ScoUan,,. C„. early „., e ' ""i '"' '"= '""'''"'" '"•'""S ..oe„ „r„.

freestone an,, „rani,o at tl.eirve,;. ,e« n '", ''"" """""" "' "'= "o"'"' ".

o... ..overntnent „o„,e site i„ ,„„ L„,e j,, ,'"""" '""'""•' "" "«-' o.- ...•

-" -.-......y .-oon.. an., is a ,.,.., a.,;ra.,;er ^IZ" '-^'■^"-'"- '""^'y.

'" ll....f.^.x .<»r,,„„r. I, ,ie, n,,,,' ' '"""f"'' '■•-™.--.» ."ay ri.ie in perfect safetv

'■■"" "•= -Narro.,..' «c,e i ^ r ''" ""'"' " "' "*» '»"«• »"" -n.racs

of "ter. T,,o „ar,„ s ej i,'";" ""■,"''""'" "^^ » '>»-"", s„ee,

i'« ..y..-..o..se. n,arks „,e en r ,, '" "' '"^ ''"• ■^-''™ '^'-.i, wi„,

-■- ." «.- ....■ , ca! :;,:„::: " """ -' -""-^ ■"• --^^^ -■.■■ ...^..^

-•cular stono batt.ry, bearing on u. cou a i , '^'^"''^°^^^- ^o.^or, a

Thundercap Sh..als. ' '^'^''^"" '*^'" '- ' "' «hips off the

OF THI-: CONTINENT

'if- motIi,'-r filled Ji,
iif-s c.:rncj off to ,.
■M\i-X on the east.;f
^^ "I the hdple.vi vi.
OSS ;.!-,e ivater ot' \\v
tlit-T foiiiul a thin
yincn consuming i,

of bloo.i. Through
•'Is nf history, thc\
^-■"'■ts in uiosc wild

''il'"n tlic memory
■ 'Jf the first divin.
lurch and St. M;,i-
nent. Governmem
^■as but a primitiv.
'tl its ticfencos ,,f

Another residcnc<
' sokl for privai.
lis tlay. or ratlic,

tlie old skeleton,
belie might ripen
'ouse was erected
laving been pro-
of the wealth oi
erected on th(
■chamher. library,

n perfect safet>
g, and contracts
beautiful sheci
^ro Island, witji
ioned with their

!" Halifax Mar-

- bay. Thnr

'oke Tower, a

ships off the

'-'i

I r :■

W-li'sii

f -

-I

9ii

) n

' I

THE EASTERNMOST RJDGE

,;:„;' "'""■""■ "V": '■■:" '""^- ^ '-" "■ •" ■ ■"■■ » «■«" i«i-.i

S ,1 „.,„„„ ,„.„.„. .„. ,„v,,.,..,- „„„ ,„, „„ „.„„, , ,„ ,,

Nature li<Ts(;ll lor .Is ilefcruc.

I..avi,„ ,„„- i„,,,,i„„, ,„.. „„,,,, I,, „^ „ _,,,^ „^^^_^ ^^ _^^|_| 1^1 _^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^_^^^_

•■.us .a ., . ,,„,, a, ,1,.. „i„, ,a,„Lli„„ .,,„„-„,.l c,llc,l |.-„„ ,;,.„,„., ,, ,„„„„ ™.„.
■•f .1.. c„y. I,a.,,„,„, a,„l »„r,.„„„.lin„ „„„„„ can 1,,. seen fr,„„ i,» „,,IK a» a H„„„. a.
...,r l„«.„.,.,„ .all ,„.,„.. Ci,a,l,., Hill is ,,, ,„, al.ov.: ,1,.. I...v,.| ,„ ,|„. 1 Tli
my l,c, l,,.,„,„„ i, anj ,1,0 .„,„, b„, a, ,„ a, ,1... ,,, ,,,„ ,,,,,.1, „„ ,,,1,.., side ,1,„
1.0..SC, l,av.. „.„„„,,. I,„„,,i,„, „„i, „„„,,,„, I, ., _, ^^^^^^ _^^^ ^^ ■

"...r„,„,-,„.. ».,a„h, cross..™., l,»li„. „„ ,,, .,„„,„ ,„ ,„^. ^,,,^,„. , ;

»l,.r,., ,„„. a„.l ,„„„ a,„„„„ „,■„.„ ,„ia,., „„„ b„,,„„., „„. „.,, ^„ ,, ^,. ^

"•"'■ -. ^.".1 .s.. .^oo,,o.s „„„„. „ ,„,..„ „„, p„„ ,.,.^ .,„ ^^,^^ ^,^ ;

"'7' """■"' ■■ ""■ ""• '»"'-■'■> "■»' «■- ™'«"' O" .!"■ Ci,a.l,., ,1 an „c.a„

-k.. ,a, , „„s,. ,„,..,„,,, :„,,,„, „„,„^.„.^^, ,_.,^ ^ _,^^ _ t

,^: ,: ' ™'""™";"'.-— «i'»«-^ only a «„s.c„ve™, „„„ a,»,.. ,l,e „iL. .,

»w,n,„„K „n ,„ ,.,„„. ,„.. „a,.„,„. „„,a„ce.«a.e. a„„ eleven ,„„s ,„,„ ;„ , ,
crcle below l„„,. like potrife,! „atcl,.doss

„„, „„ , '"" ''' """''■■« ^" 'I"-' "'ri""s I" c ,vl,arv,.», and p„sl,

. a s„„„„e, even,„,. ,,l,e„ ,l,e „,„ i, se.,i„, l,el,i„d ,„e A. ,r, | ,e and

' : ' "■"'" '«""■" ""-■ "»«"-'" M's <■" l-c. , ,.„ ev..,,. ,,,a,sy ripple

« n>n,er» a ,„„,,. ,„„ . ,„„ .erraced ci,y i, l,a,l,ed i„ .„,.,„- ., „,„ ,, , L,;, J . '

M ,=».y, ..ock,,,,,, and .l,e. I,i„. .ree- near .hid, hi, W„r,„i,, ,|,e Mayor „a„,ls o

,':,-";;"■■ '"; """» -' """-' ""l-^ --- A,y are ,l,ee,ed .i,h f,r .

■1- . J"»l, d,e, a, ,l,e nnn ,inl„ ,„,„,, ,„„„ „„,, ,„., ,,,„

;"'. " "";■", "''- '"""■■' '■' »'" ""'^ «a.~.s in ,l„. dvin, ,„n,e. e,„l '

ynad, „, „lea,„re.l.oa„ .hread .heir way in an. , „n .l,e „,., er a lev, a„,„n„ ,1 :

i ,., a a„e or: her MaJe„yV ,la„ -. ,„,„„„, , ^, "^^ ^^^J-^^^

III' .uiiiiiatoa sceiK,'.

l,lanI!"Ti|."",l'"r' ""■■ ,':"" ' '" ""' ' ""■" " "'•■■ '■»"•■■•>- "" ■'^'- '■-"^.es

Island, lal.. ,he ,„„ on Cadel Hill, i. i, , , „, „„,„•„, , , ,„.„ „^_,^^_ J^^^

Iltip

•ill. ;

OF THE CONTINENT

on the wrstciii
lall .ijrecii island
>f the l)ail)()iir.
(7/ i/'(///cr fi-,,11,
y fashioned by

lim - nowhere —
A superb view
• as a jrlance at
tli<' sea. I'he
either side the
a cU;ar, sunny
iifi water; tlie
of sail-Hecked
on the Dart-
)pped out of a
was an octan-
iurroiinding it,
d ; a spacious
the wide, dry
nhat a busy
md ilown the
I'l in n scMiii-

' into a small
es, and push
I's house and
glassy ripple

grass in her
yor stands to
insformed by
ted with fire,

the Citadel,
inset embers.
s among the
IS forts amid

.St. George's
great earth-

works. It is an ant-hill of iunnan beings, whose cells are casemates, armories, and
arsenals in the vaulted Hanks of bastions, deep buried in the piles of masonry. As we
grope after a guard through descending passages, the air gets colder and colder, until
the walls can be seen glistening witii the ooze-hidden springs, and ict-cold pools receive
our unwilling feet. We step, at lengtii. into one of the- casemates, when' a cannon
stands before its round port-hole, like a lion peering from his covert, waiting for his
prey.

No lovelier "bit" could be than the bird's-eye view from that port-hole out of the
bowels of St. (George's Island. .All round the grim circle sun-gilded grass waved in
wanton grace, concealing the port-hole and its tieadly occupant from outsiders. Out
yonder a Hood of sea ant! sunshine, with a lonel) light-house perched upon its tongue
of rocks, and a yacht skimming past, iier sails tinged like ro.se-leaves, while a sea gull
liew from the dark woods on MacXab's Island and fluttered seaward.

Halila.v is fond of her big pleasure pond. There is the Roxal Yacht Club, of
which the Prince of Wales became an honourary member during his visit in i860, and
to which he presented a challenge cup for yearly competition. There are boat races,
water parties, e.xcursions, and fishing ad libitum. In the winter season the Basin,
which is ten miles long, makes an admirable ground for trolling m itches, sleighing
parties, and a score of other ice amusements. "Up the road" is a favourite drive of
the citizens, and a lovely one when the oaks and maples are in foliage. Y .'■ scirt the
edge of the Basin for nine miles, when the pretty village of Bedford comes in view,
and you |)ut up at one of the hotels, and return to the city in the moonlight. The
" Prince's Lodge " is a relic of the Duke of Kent's days, situated about six miles from
Halifax, and built by him for a summer house. Nothing now remains but a small
wooden pavilion (once the music room), perched upon a romantic height, overhanging
the deep, maple-shadowed water. The railwa)- now cuts so closel\- under it that it
trembles to its foundations as the iron steed thunders on its way.

There are ujiwards of thirty churches to the city's forty thousand inhabitants, the
oldest being the "Little Dutch Church" (Lutheran), built by the Gemian settlers in
1761. It remains unchanged, with the exception of such necessary repairs as prevent
:t from falling to pieces. .\ conspicuous object, as seen from the water, is the tall
white spire of St. Mary's Cathedral (Roman Catholic). Like the " Dom, ' of Cologne,
'! swallows up all other spires, a fact due rather to its excellent situation than its
architectural ' a.

Halifax , distinguished for its charitable institutions — the Lunatic, the Blind, the
Deaf and I')uml) Asylums, Infants' Home, Orphans' Home, and a long list of others.
A stately c.istle in red brick, with turrets galore, was dedicated to the paupers; but it
wa.s, unfort "atel\-, destroyed by fire in 1883, and the old Penitentiary received the
inmates for ^ time. ♦

jiir
III
aiii^ii

! If

' 'i

i ■■»!

•I

T///S EASTERNMOar RJDGE

Unt. recently the twin ar, . of music and tl. .lran,a found l,„t a Inkewarn, wel-
come .n ahfax ; ,n.t the .rec.ion .f ... .,.,.,y ,, ^,„„,, , ^^^ ,,,^ ^,,^_^^^^ ^^^^
what ,„ , ,,.,, f ,,, „-„, ,^, ^.^^^, ^^^^ ,^^^ ^.^^^ ^^^^_^^ ^^ ^^

h.bu.on Hall not only sen.s for I'rovincial .xhihitions, hut also for a spacious rink

■i ):

< 9

MKN IJF WAR. MALI, AX MAkliuUK.

bazaar hall, and general pub]:, entertainments. Dalhous,, College, situated at tin-
north end of the Grand Parade, was established in the year ,820. at the desire of Lord
naIhons.e, whose name it bears. It h.s had a somewhat checkered history, but is ar
the present tin,e in a flourishing condition. Within the past few years ,t has ben.f^te.l
by the hberality of one of Nova .Scotia's best sons, who has contributed to it over a
quarter of a million of dollars. The High S-hool. .hich is the old Gramn.ar School
resusctated and enlarged, occupies a central tion at the south end of the Citadel

Let us now turn from these details to . , .,,p,ation of some of the citys
breath mg places.

A C „ ning resort for the people of Halifax is Point Pleasant Pa-k, situated
on the tongue of land between th<. harbour and the Northwest Arm. Mroad carriage-
dnves of a most excellent sn,oothness wind through the natural forest, the shimmer
of the sea ever and anon closing the vista. P'oot-paths abound, wL.re one mi^hl
lose h.mself most enjoyably among the labyrinths of rock, trees, and tall bracke^ns
Shut your eyes and ears to the plashing ocean all around, and fancy vourself in

or HIE CONTINENT

ihu 15lack I'oresl nf (;<rrnim>, I lien; arc the mossy reaches under tall pines, the
wealth of wild (li)w<:rs, llw nwi'ct, resinous (>> .ur, as the path winds up and up,
you care not whither, When' arc tlie ruins ? There is a good substitute in the
old Martello Tower " rriiu:c of Wales Tower" — standinj^ guard in the centre of
its green clearing, and though there are no legends of Black Barons or . ily Lore-
leis attached t(» its walls il i'* a innnorial of the ilays when rough-handed marauders
hung about the shore^i and skulking Indians peered out of the surrounding greenery
at liie pale-face braves, longing for their scalps!

This park containn one hundred and sixty acres, and its foot-paths, riding-
paths, and driving-courseH average some ten or fifteen miles. The commissioners,
with admirable taste, have merely cleared away the underbrush, planted young trees
in vacant spaces, ami erowm the; best spots for views vvilii summer-houses, I'oiu-
forts and batteries, benitle't the lower, command the coast at clilfereiu [joints. The
War Departmcul owmkuI the whole peninsula until 1874, when il handsomely coiim ded
it to the city for a park. Almost ujiposite the park stands mother frowning fort, York
Redoulit, on the west bank of the Northwest Arm. The quaint little village of Falk-
land clings to the side of a precipitous hill below it. Beautifu. is the scene from this
stern spot, of the Arm, with its richly wooded banks and its graceful inundations.
.Near the moutii of it are two massive iron rings, fastened into the solid rock, from
hich heavy chains were woni to be stretched across to the opposite bank in time of
war. Melville Island, near the hc.id, contains what was formerly a war-prison. It is a
two-st woollen building with grated windows, and is utilized by the resident

garrison .is a jail for their criminals. Any day as you drive past on the charming
"Shingle Road" you may hoc the soldier felons in their prison garb at work upon the
walls or embankments of their small territory. Gentlemen's residences can be seen

;iiii:

£l!l|

liosoinccl high in tufted tree-s

sai

along the shores of the lovely sheet of water, and tiny pleasure-boats dot the clear
<;xpanse. If one would fetiHt his eyes on a prospect not easily forgotten, let him
climb the hill which overlookn the Arm on the western side and enjoy it at his ease
in the rustic summer-houH« that has ijeen perched there by Sandford Fleming, the
L;reat engineer.

Humanity in thi^i ([uaner of the globe is worth a passing glance; and if one
acsircs his specimens au iialurcl, lei him go to the Green Market on Saturday morn
ing. There is an excellent brick market-house with stalls that can be hired for a very
small rent, but the |)reler«!nce of the honest country folks is to sit in the open square
behinti the Post-Office and there vcixl their goods untaxed to the early customer.
From the country seitlementH east and west they come in horse-carts, ox-teams, and

i \

////:■ /'..ISTHRXMOST Ji//)(i£

■•n foot. riuT.. an. I )u...hu„nu.n fn.,n alo,,, ,|„- ..asfrn shur.. wi.h th-.r l.ask.ts of
^-.n crops, winch hav. I,....,, nourish-.l ..„ ,1„. ,„n.st ...on- an.l tlw n. 1,.., ...a-k,.!,.
Ihere are th. Hluc-nos.. w.-m.-n, l.roa.l an.l hi.h-c..l„nn.,l. f.arless alik.. .,( win,! .„.!
-•athor as they driv. .!,..- |,.a.l...| t.-ams by ni^lu ..,. ..ou^h an.l lon-iy ..a.ls ,.,
■oac tlu. earliest I)artn.>uth rry-hoa,. Tin,- ofl,., with a fri. n.lly sn,il.. .,n th..ir
w.ath.r.lH.aten visaj^os, ,,rin,r„s,. Lutfr, /.;-,/., „„.,,, ,.,„, ,ahha«...I,.av..s, an.l p..arh-
-.^K's. f.„Kl f..r the. ,.,.ls. -rh..rc an- iank-iiml....! cnntrymen cla.l in r..,„h -ray hom.'
spun, standing l.,.sicl.. .iu.ir i.,a.ls ..f ...^.tables ,..- salt marsh hav ; n...\,.,.n an.!
shrewd-eyo.1. lik. X..w iCn.ian.l farnu.,s, i.„t bashfully court,,ot,s .,f sp....!, with ,h,.
-ft hsp .,f th.. c;..nnan fatherlan.l ..n ,l„.ir t.,n,.u..s or th- burr of .h.ir Scottish
ancestry. Here are a pair .,f rVenchwomen with baskets „f knitted ,o„.|s on their
arms. Contrast the wit!,.....! an.l v.^llo. .randame. her «ri..Ie<l hair bui.in^ in a roll
above her bushy eyebrows, h.-r .Haw-like han.ls plying her knittino-wir..; with th..
fresh youn,. ,.>! by her side. wh..s.. arch black eyes sparkl.. fn.n, out of h,., smooth
ohve face, and h..r uhit.. t....th .lisplay themselves in full fore, as w.. hn,..r ,h.. hu.e
mutens i„ h..r bask..t. Ol.l an.l youn, ar.. habited alike in blue or black handkerchiefs
t..^htly knott...! nnd..r th.. .bin, I.,os.. bhu: jackets with napkin shawls fol.|..,l .,ver then,
and short woollen skirts. .Scores ..f them have been on th.. r.,ad all ni.ln, .r.utin. th.^
twenty-s.x miles frou, Cheg^etcook on foot, th..,r Infers busily p,yi„, U,e knittin^;
.u.e<lles al t e way. Th.-re s.puUs a n..,ro u.uron ..n th.. pav..n.ent, l.r clouted feet
stretc ed before her in utter disre.ar.l of pas.sers by, a short black pipe betw^-.-n h..r
l-ndulous hps. M..r layers of ra.s clothe h..r like the fun-n' of a d..ad tr..e. her
padded hood is fashioned to fulhl the office of a saddle for her L.a.l She lr,s
luscous wild strawberries in little birch-barks, which she ofTers you in an unctuous
fal-setto, stuff,n, h,.r pip,, int.. h..r bos..n, th.. better to ov..rhaul her store for a fresh
one. You pans., in your bargain as you wonder whether /.■. /..,/. hulled the temptin.
Iruit ! I .s

'^■'- ■• "-•''^- '•-! '"an " and his squaw also atten.l market. There thev stan.I a
clc...>erat.. pair, clad in the cast-off clothes of the white man, their u.erchandise
cons,stn,, of ,1a, an.l willow baskets ,ayly dye.l an.l an occasional porcupine-quill box.
ll.e squaw .s prematurely a^ed. ,ler br<.ad. copper-coloured face is inconceivablv
-nnkled ; her ..yes, fro.n their ambush of folds, peer forth with a snaky gleam The
■■ l.rave, pn.pped up right against the I'ost-Oti^ce wall, do.es with his bunch of rabbits
<>" the.r s..ason, dangling in his hand, and, working his jaws mechanicallv on his quid
•Ireams of-run. A bronze-tinted papoose is strapped under a fdthv blank..t at th.'-
niother-s back and its i„,passiv.. littl.- fac surveys life ..ver her shoul.h.r with a perfect
pMosop y. This trio has .lrif,..d f.on, one of the wigwa.n hamlets near Dartmouth,
and th.ther they will return when their wares are dispo.sed of, if thev do not fall
victims to rum and the station-house.

Ol- I III-: CONTINENT 79

lU'forc we leave the market-s(|ii;ir.' let us i^rlanc.' up ( ieorjje Street, a liiisy (juartri-
at all times, Ixii douLly so on market .lays. In the forcj^foiind a compan) of her
Majesty's 1,7th rej^inieiit is marchin- to the Dartmouth f<rry-lioat prohahiy on its
way to the I'.astern I'assa.i^c sliootin]:,'-),^roun(l. Some of our market-folks are sitting at
the r«;ceipt of < ustom tirivin- their har^^ains, while an ox-eari or two .ire composedly
stationeil hy their colouicd owners where the street traff'u- must How round ihem as it
hest ran. On the left of the picture^ -^laniis the I'ost-OtTice, a handsome stone hiiildine
of recent dat<'. i'he vista up iIk; street is vers (piaint, closed in as it is l,y ( itadel
Hill, so softly <rreen, with the (|ueer old lown-iiock in front of it.

'I he I'lililic (iardens on " band-iiav s " are the favourite resort of nurse-maids aiti!
their char^rc-s and youii,!.,^ ,i,'enllemen fond of llirtini; and lawii-tennis. i'here are
fourteen acres of i^round, beautifully arrani^^ed with ornamental shrid)lj<M-ies, rookeries,
arbours, pontls. fount, lius, lawn-tennis court, etc. The military or marine band, as tlie
case may be, performs in ,1 tree-circled stand ; the babies and their maids wind roumi
the musicians, and the fair ladies of Halifax promenade the outer walks to the music
of Strauss or Sullivan, (juite unconscious of tlu' knots of youn,L( excpusites who stand
on the j,aass and admire them. A stranger is struck with the peculiarly healthy glow
of these ladi(!s' complexions, as compared with the bleached faces of their American
sisters. Doubtless, the Atlantic breezes have to answer for the delicate soiipioii of
tan the light s|)rinkling of freckles on pretty noses— that William Hlack has taught us
to atlmire on his heroines.

Since Nova Scotia was settled fishing has been one of its most important industries,
and Halifax county has gone into the bu.siness largely. Not only are salt-water lish
in abundance, but the lakes and streams swarm with salmon, trout, gaspereaux, perch,
and eels; not forgetting the small, delicious smelts, caught through the ice by the
cart-load, and worthy of a place on Delmonico's bill-of-fare, Halifax fish-market is said
to have a more varied supply all the vear round than any other in America. ']"h(.'re
are sixteen different species, of which the salmon, cod, and mackerel are the most
important. Halifax tits out numerous llet'ts for the Labrador and Island Manks
fisheries, but all along the .Atlantic shore, east and west, thert' are fishing villages,
whose chi('f subsistence is g.uued by the cotl and mackerel fishing along tlu- coast.
.As the Spring op(Mis the boats are exhumed from barns or heaps of spruce-brush and
caulked, pitched, or painted anew ; long nets are sprtiail on the grass around the
cottages ; the women are busy netting or mending, their lingers jjlving the rude wooden
shuttles as dexterously as a lady weaves lu'r fair\- tatting with her ivorv toy; hooks
and lines are prepareil : all is bustle and expectation. And when the boats go out in
the brightening dawn, full of stalwart men — tlu' fathers and husbands of those the\
leave b( aind them when the sun smiles through the white fog, s(!iuling it back to its
breeding-ground ; when the fish come in fast as hands can haul them, and the

;:;!i

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m
iw

li;ii

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111)'

?i|

3IJ

;' I

Si 3 ,

yy//:' /z.isr£/^NA/osy Huniu

mackerel -schools drift on the deep blue
water all aroimil with a sound as of fall-
injr rain -then the weather- heatcn faces
relax and the pati.mt hearts ris(; hi-r),
with hope of a "nro(,d tishin' s|M.il." Hut
when th(! fierce S(piall smiles th.e rock-
liound shon; and the wild breakers lash

it with resistless force, .any a dceply-Iaden boat is HW«pt to itB destruction ; many

OF THE CONTIXENT

i? I'f*?'.

ction ; many

a brave man sinks in sight of wife and home ; the earnings of toilsome years are
lost in the greedy maw of liie sea.

" For men imisl work', an,l women must weep;
And the liaibour-bar is inoaniiijj."

Jot one ot the /en towns or \ iUages that lie alon;^- tiie Soutlieastern coast of
Mova Scotia but lias .s story, or garland of stories, of adventure on the stormy deep.
■ They that go down to the sea in ships, that do business in the great waters," some-
linies go forth to come back again with no ntuniing tide. The st.-a claims her prey :
and nowhere is there a larger [jriiportion of )oiuig widows and groups of little orphans
than along the .\llantic coast. Hut there are abundant stories of triumphant condict
with the elements. Many a one has battled the storm all the way from Labrador to
La Have, and the recital stirs the yoiuig bUjod during the long winter evenings when
it is all in vain for tlie tishennan to tempi the pt'rils of the tlccp. Many have won
wealth on \.\\v coasts and baid<s and coves of .Newfoundland, or away up among the
rough Magilalens. 'I'hey tell of comrades lost or snatched from ihe very grip of death,
riiey tell of long, weary waiting, antl then of sudden fortune, anil the joy of the home-
coming. No time in all the year is so cvcntfLd as when the well-known vessel heaves
m sight, anil the eager watchers name her name, antl the word passes from lip to lip
nil the good news reaches the licarts of wifr and children, .\n.\iou > fears are dispelled ;
gloomy forebodings are laughed at and forgotten ; aiul there is more than the joy of
harvest. 'Ihe g.iins of this )t;ar tempt to renewc'd adventure ne.\t year; or the season's
losses kindle a hope of ni-xt season's gains.

Scarcely a family along ihesi' ba\s and coves but has a deep personal interest in
the sea : it is their mine and their harvest field ; a father or brother, a cousin, i lover,
perhaps, is on the wave. The mother, the wife, thci sister, the sweetheart, will watch
and wait with longing heart and eager i)rayers. And often the waiting is for a 'mor-
row that never comes — for a smile that is never seen again.

One has to go back onl) to the closing years of last century and the earlier years
of the present to gather u|) tales of privateering, bold robberies by invaders and keen
leprisals by the sturdy children of the sea. One story out of man\ must serve our
turn. Its authenticity is vouched for. The hen) was Captain Godfrey, of the little
lown of Liverpool, and the vessel was the armed brig Ron r, which carried fourteen
lour-pounders. Her crew consisted of tift\-live men and boys, nearly all hardy fisher-
men. Near Cape Hlanco, on the Spanish Main, the Rover was attacked by a schooner

ten six-

md three gunboats under Sj^anish roh

th<

schooner rar'-vnv.

men, tt

pound

ers an(

1 otl

ler heavier g

runs.

Aft

er a struggle w

hich

itinued over three hours

the gunboats made off, and I he schooner, Saii/a RiUa, wa;; taken! Says Captain Ood-

i::

ii;:. ji

Mill

DUI

liljl

.ui;

er»

Ci»;

"• •■■

.^t

■^'*^'.'£.

S:?

. ',«*

/■///;" /:•-/. V77fy¥/VyJ/aSy AV/^^A'

frey: •' She was fitted out ,ho day before for the express purpose of takin, -,s , every
Officer on board of her was killed except those in command of a part^ of '.- soldier.
.Here were fourteen men dead on i,er deck wl,en we hoarded her,' and sevente..'
-""'1-1; the pnsoners. including the wounded, numbered seventy-one. .My ships con,-
I'-v^ inchuhn, omcers and boys, by this tin. an.ouuted to forty-five, and behaved
-th that courage and spirit which liritish seamen always show when fighting the ene-

'Z] ""'■^■' ' '"' "'^ ■'' '"■•'" '^"^' •' •'■''^' ---y ^o.t fift^.four. I landed

all the pnsoners except eight, taking the.r obligation not to serve agahst His Majestv-
tnu,l regularly exchanged." After numerous adventures Captain Godfrey arrived safely
■n h,s A.:.,v-at Liverpool, where, after th.. peace, he: disarmed her and used her to

""■" "^'' ": "" '^■*" '"'"^■^- '■'- 1^^'^-'' Government had offered him the comn,and
oi a man-of-war, but he d.Tiined the off.r.

,. '' "': '' ^"'" ''""''■ "'"^ "'- '-- -^^1-'^- storms are too comn.on at some spots
'""'•"■, '^ ''" ■'^'^^'■^'' '•"'•^>- -'^'' ^^ ^'-t steamer sank in the gale, and not a ..ul
7"""'' ''' ''■" ''"• ^'"••>- '" ^'-^ ^-> ^'-vn the fishermen on th. .hore could d.^crv
tl- n,as,s and rigging of the //.,„.-.,. as the furious gale shrieked through then,

T' ■ ■ '■'""■ ''• " '1^''"' '■•"•*' '''-•'' '"'■"^P^'^l -'<1 sln-ltered from ,he Morms hv a

';■;; "^ '''■•""■"^^'' '''■ ^l- "■'^-•" -■<■ '--h-eds of grave, of m.n and women ,u,d
^■'"'•''■'"- <1'-™1. -hen no storm .as on the sea and no darkness in ,he .ky u,
-xcus.. the cruH blundering of the cu-eless captain of the A^/„U.. The Icdo-.s ..,v
-'" l-'-^l -'t b,.yond Cap,. Sabl.. where n,any a gallant ship has gone down^wh.-e

;'"' "^ ' :''^" '""■^'"■^ '' •^••^-■'"•■•^ "-^ "- -St away by the great storm wluch
lu- wortlu I'uraans of Boston believed to have been sent specially in answer to their
last Day pray.r to confound the plans of the inv.uler.

Halifax has within easy reach of it som,. sandy beaches that naturallv attract hosts
'' ^'""r: ;^""'^' ^'^^ '^^'>' -^'-^ ^^ f-v nules of th,. city, is one of U^e most bra.
n.g an.l d,.hgluful bathing resorts in America. Westwar.l, we find two silverv sand
1-du.s a, the head of Margaret's Hay, and the largest of all, son,., nules in Extent
='^ '^^t,te R,v„.r,.. These places are not so easily accessible- not r,.ached by rail-
way or steanter-and henc. are not yet popular. The Atlantic coast seems as if spe-
cially des,gned to afford the greatest possible reli,:f in suntnter to those who suff..r fr.ue
t '■ terrd^e ...t of ,he interior of this continent, The large bays . dotted wi.h
.slands affonhng abundant scope for safe and pl,.asant boating excursions. The streau,s
•"'--• - '-!• : and the coast waters yield codfidt, herring, mackerel and son^etuu-s
hahbut. Ml abundance.

CHKsr.K. forty miles south-west of Halifax, is reached by daily stage-coach .u-
Pnvate conveyance, along a d,.lightful road, skirting the shore, or passing un.U.r th..
shallow of loftv h''".- 'n,,. vill , •„

,„,.„ , . ' ''' ^'"^'-'^ ''"''''' ■' '"" -I'i'l^ sl"l>- towar.ls th.. s,..-, and ,om-

mands ext..ns,v.. s..a views. ■rh,.re are deligl.ful .Irives in the vicinitv, and the bay .s

(V-' rifh: CONTJXF.XT

takinjjr us , every
v of 25 soldiers ,
anil seventtM'ii
1\1>' ship's coni-
ve, and iiehavcd
fi.tjhting the ciic-
i-four. I landcl
list His Majesty
■y arrived safely
!ul used lier to
im the conimaiid

>n at some spots.

and not a nohI
re could descry

throiiLrh them.
lie storms hy a
md women .iinj

in the sky to
I Iie ied>;es ,ii-(-
e down— where
at st(jrm wiiicji
mswer to their

lly attract hosts

the most hrac-

o silvery sand

iles in extent,

ached by rail-

nis as if s))(-

iiio suffer frou'

■ dotted with

rile streams

nd sometimes

tajTc-coach, or

n<,^ tinder the

sea and com-

nd the bay is

dotted with innumerable islets. Aspotooran, a bold, bare hill, the loftiest aion.o- the .At-
l.mtic coast, is usually visited from C'liest('r. i'roin its summit one sees the fabled three
lumdred a.nd sixty-live islands of Mahmie I'.ay. Ciptaiii Ki<]<l, the redoubtable pirate,
is credited with havin- hidden liis treasure 011 Oak Island, near Chester, and anient seek-
-rs after forbidden wealth ha\e e\i)en(led fortunes in trymo- to n-ach the earth's centre
here. Once and a.L,^ain they have penetntt..'d over one himdretl feet, as if a j.irate could
diLT so deep even if he had wished i The village of .M.ihon.' liay is charmin-ly situated
,it the head of a narrow basin, whose uK.uth is screened by islands, and whose sides
.ii-e sheltered b\- st<'ep hills, .\ few miles farther on is Linienbur--. a llourishino town,
the centre of the county of the sanu! name a slice of ( .erman\ laid down in \o\a
.Scotia. In winter this county is bleak and dreary, the forests ha\in,L,f been lars^ely ile-
stroycd by hres. In summer it is nrreen and lovely, and in harvest time its hillsid<-s
are golden with yellow -rain. The town of l.unenburo- rises on a -entle slope from the
shore of the h.arbor, X'iewed from Cosm.ui's Observatory, which stands on the siiinniit
of an adjacent hill, the town appears while and clean in the midst of a \ast panorama

-1%

• uid wooded islets -each

'•et in a mirror of mol-

f'n silver;— pretty cottan;,>s on c^rassy hillocks or half hidden in the valleys : north-

Ward a vast cresciMit sweep of dark forest ; far ,s( uthward the shinintr nea. An

nil,

11!;'

Mill

;i.'i

iiiii ,

t1
I

i:.;

TT/ZT EASTERNMOST R/DGE

lure 111 i^j3, at the invitation of the Mrin^l, r-^
mont. which ,.avc them farming implements '^ '^°'""-

and three years' provisions. Tlie new comers
suffered from the Indians, and tales are still
'"1<1 of atrocities, fearful murders, and the
'".rrors of a long captivity. Comparative
nearness to Halifax was an
element of safety here. When
the Revolutionary war broke
out, Lunenburg was honoureil
with a visit by two p-ivateers,
which took away all the loot
tlu'y could find. In June, 1813.
an American privateer was
chased into these waters by a
British man-of-war. It refused
to surrender, and being
in imminent danger of
t^apture, was blown up hy
one of its officers. The
whole crew perished. Lu-
nenburg is now deeply
<-ngaged in fisheries, in
Hhip-building, and in the
lumber-trade. The Ger-
man colonists who stood

I.A 1 li 01-- ClTADI'lL,
AND OLD CLOCK TOWER.

'«^i;Js.

the brunt ot pioneer life would
have been proud and satisfied
if they could but have seen the

prosperits of their enterprising

grandchildren.

The 0\i:.\s, near Lunenburg

town, deserve to be looked at,

if not explored. High cliffs fac-

ing the Atlantic have been undermined In the constant cr.sh'ol ,1, ■ ,

noise like, .l,,,,,,,,, Wl„.„ ?,, \ " " '"'""'"'"'" '"'«■ ^"'' »"' »

- - --™. :"::;':::i:i:z;t ;::::':* '3:'"' : r

considerable quantities in the sand- but th. " ^- ^ """'' '"

P - » .n... . .„„ ,™, ':;,;;;-, :™"- ^ x,,:^ .:':r ", ;-

Ikonhound Island— the I , Hn,,,. .. f ■ ^"'^ °^

this I.n . TI ' "''' '■''°*'' "^ "'^' ^''•^"<^'' "'l'^-" they possessed

(It.

ill,,

OF THE CONTINENT

the force of the sea and tn screen the islands that are inside, which are well wooded,
fertile, and habitable. Hut when the storms of winter rave round these coasts, when
the Atlantic is aroused by the yales of March and April, there are weeks that the
dwellers on the islands cannot communicate with the mainland. This was one of the
lir.st spots colonized by I-ranc- : here Isaac de Razilly, the wise and gallant Knight of
Jerusalem, the sagacious Lieut.-General of Acadie, the far-sighted captain of the West,
died suddenly in 1636, and here he lies buried. His death was an irreparable loss to
the men of wiiom he was the leader ; for internal strifes followed which proved more
deadly than the attacks of the common foe.

Liverpool is the aspiring designation of a pretty little town, a mile long, on the
right bank of the Rossignol. The river is the outflow of a series of lovely forest lakes
away up in the bosom of the hills. This region was explored in 1622 by Sir William
Alexander, who found " a pleasant river, and on every side of the same they did see
very delicate meadows having roses white and red growing thereon, with a kind of
white lily which had a dainty smell."

Shklburnk is one of the prettiest of towns, on a land-locked bay ten miles long
by two or three wide. It has a curious history. The beauty o^ the situation attracted
the attention of the Loyalists of New England, large numbers of whom came here in
1783. In one year the forest along these peaceful shores gave way to a city of 12,000
people. Wealthy patricians sought here to live under the old flag. For the first year
all seemed brilliant with hope. Governor Parr entered the bay in a royal frigate, and
so delighted was he with the progress and promise of the place, that he encouraged
the project of making it the capital of the Province in place of Halifax. Unfortu-
nately, the harbor is so thoroughly land-locked that it is frost-bound in winter; and
this proved fatal to the claims of the new city. There was also no back country-
nothing but the mighty forest i)el!ind from which to draw s.ii.plies or with which to
trade. For two years the cit)' grew apace. Two millions and a half dollars were
expended in the costly experiment. It collapsed almost like a dream. In three or
four years it became a village of 400 inhabitants. Many of the Loyalists went back to
thi; United States. Many moved to other places where the hand of industry could earn
a living. But the beauty of the situation remains— bay, cliff, stream, island, the orjeam
of the distant sea, and the unbroken belt of forest along the low ridges of the Blue
Mountain range. There are fertile and well-peopled valleys in the county, and rising
towns, such as Lock's Island, that the fisheries have made wealthy.

Port Latour must he looked at in honor of the brave man whose name it bears, and
who stood true to his loyaltv in spite of every temptation. Fort Louis, which young

atour held against hi^, fatlu;r, has vanished into

space. There is but a

smi

shi

lamlet row, when in the 17th century there was much trade and mrt.

ing

Sable is the veritable Land's Lad of Nova Scotia,—

tary stir. Cape

Mil
Mill '

Ulil

iiij
'"(I

r»

■rocky, rt»ugh ^x\A .>arren.

i ' I.

I;
S

1'^

77 //t Ji.lSTHRA-AIOST RIDGE

Yarmouth lies alons a line of low, rockx coast.—tlu. hailiour at hi.L^h tide full to thr
brim with th<: turbid waters of th.. Hay of JMiiuly, aiul at <l.l. tide scantily enough sup
phed. Cooliiii^r mists and dense fo.irs often com.' in with the tide, and the consequence
IS that the verdure of ^•armouth is ..f the deepest jrreen. and its blossoms of tlie bright

I'lSlll.k.MI.N I.AMlINt; IN A GALE.

2st white and n-.l and purpl... The strr.ts arc fairly wll l.uilt, and off the lines of
111.- Streets riv: th,. i,andson,.s. villas, embosomed in ,>;ardens and presenting- every ap-
p. u.mce of tast.. and w-alth. \owh..v will you see si.x ihonsand j-eopl,. hetto" housed ;
and the schools, churches, . ourt house, (actori.s and shops have cau-rht the same air of
substantial comfort. V.irmouth is a ship-ownino town. It is stated that in 1761 th..
vvhol,. county owne.l 25 tons of shippn,^-. The town now owns ov..- a h.mdred and
tw.MUy ihousan:! tons, -mon- in proporti.,n to the population than anv other place.
Th.. ,nost eligible sites, ,h,- ,nost .leganl buildings in town and vicinity, an. th.-
I'mperty of "captains" .l,,, hav.. won w..,,lth on the stormy .seas, and who n'turn to
enjoy t!!..ir W'el!.,.arned re.t in thr bosom .,f their lamilies. Kvery on., is deepiv int.-

r.'sted in the se

a. and shipping nc.w-

■agerlv scanned i.i lind t

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son, or fri(M,.i The cruel sea claims large tribute from thos.- w

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OF 77//: CONTINENT

h tide full to tlu

iitily enough sii|)

tlu' conse(iiieiui

ms of the brighi

)H' xhc lines of
nting every ap-
• bett(;r iKnised ;
tlic same air <if
it in 1761 the
a liinulred and
i\' oilier place,
linity, arc tin
who return to
is dcej)!}- intc-
father, lirother.
) it for wealth.

nid Yiirmouth has paid its share. The graves of her sons are in many a strange port,
and ill many an ocean cave. Prudently. Yarmouth is turning her attention to manufac-
nirin^ industries. .She has foundries, woolen mills, a duck factory; and a beginning is
made in iron ship-building one of the greatest industries of the future. The Acadian
■.lory could be repeated here -the long conflict, the expulsion, the return of a lew, the
Miming of New Englanders to take possession of the pleasant heritage. Argyll Bay in
ihii count) is singularly beautiful with its 365 islands and numerous peninsulas, and

pleasant little hamlets of prosperous fisher-
men. But the section which is peculiarly at-
tractive to the lover of nature, to the angler
and the moose-hunter, is the lake region of
1 iiskc't. These lakes are eighty (more or
less) ill number, and are Uf^arly all con-
ne'ted with the Tusket Ri\er. They are
smaj, rock-bound, o\x'rsluKlowed by spruce,
birch, maple and beech ; while over the
river itself the elm often droops its graceful
branches. Here the fisherman is sure of

abundance of gas-

pereaux in the lower

reaches of the ri\er,

and farther inland.

salmon and trout.

The favorite haimts

of the statel)" luoose

and graceful caribou

extend along the sides of the Blue Mountain

range over eight) miles. When we sjieak of

lakes and rivi rs in Nova Scotia, be it nuted

that all of them together would not make

one of the t\i)ical Canadian lakes or rivers!

But largeness is not necessarily an element

in beaut)-. Ami we boast in Nova .Scotia

of no fewer than seven hundred and sixty

lakes !

And now let us return to the beautifid

Annapolis \ alk) which we left in order to

p.ty our respects to Halifax and the Atlantic coast. The North .Mountain, running from

ISlomidon lo Digb)- Gut, screens the valley from the raw breezes and fogs of the Bay

If^

81'KIN'. HKAUrV, SA.NtiUINARIA, AND
UOO-TOOrH VIOLliT.

111:1

til

in- ■"

rnr. i:astrrnmost rjdge

of Funrly. The Soiuli Mountain, which runs the whole length of Nova Scotia i«
parallel with the North Mountain for a .iistance, of say ei.^rhty miles. The intervening
valley is the "garden of Nova Scotia." Its western half is the "Annapolis Valley." and

CHESTER.

1 1 li>

its eastern half the Cornwallis Valley. The river is navigable to Bridgetown. But
hece, as elsewhere along the shores of the turbid Bay of Fundy, the traveller is startled
by the amazing contrast between full-tide and low water. The waters rush inwards
With BUperabundant energx' and opulence, filling up every creek and brooklet, till you
begin to fear that old limits are to be overleapt. Boats, ships, steamers ride gaily
where an hour or two before they were s.juat upon a brown mud bottom. But watch
with just a little patience. At the perilous fullness there is a pause, a brief period
of seeming hesitation. Then, there is the panic rush of retreat, until cove and creek
are dry again, and strong swollen rivers are mere dribbling brooks.

Following up the valley we find little towns and villages and hamlets, churches
an.l schools; richly cultivated fields, Leagues after leagues of apple-trees; orchards with
trees old as the French regime; orchards newly set out; some apparently dying of age
or from lack of care; the great majority thrifty and doing well. No sooner is one of
the great old farms subdivided by the father for the benefit of one or two sons than a
new orchard is set out, even before a house or barn is built. The farms hug the sides
of the steep hills, and some of the best fruit is raised on these sunny slopes. There
nre two periods of the year when this apple country is peculiarly delightful,-in June,
when the trees are red and white with blossom-snowy white and \-ose-red, full of

OF Tim CONTINENT

8f)

l)romise for the future w'-'! afforclin},r alnuulant present delijrht ; and again in Septem-
ber and October, when u... limbs are laden with green, russet and gold. —when thi
orchards laugh with abundance and the air is literally fragrant with the aroma of gra-
vensteins and pippins and the nameless varieties in which the fruit growers of thi^.
region take delight. Apple culture now is an important industry here; and in prosper-
ous years farmers realize many thousands of dollars as the fruil of their toil.

Hridgetown, Lawrencetown, Paradise, Kingston, Middleton, are steadily impioving
in appearance and growing in population as the result of improved agriculture and hor-
ticulture. VVii.MOT Si'uiNos are noteworthy for the health-giving qualities of the water.

The CouNWAi.Lis Valley presents a lovely expanse of level country, between the
North and South mountains. It has been largely rescued from the sea and transformed
into wondrously fertile territory. The Canard and the Cornwallis rivers, once navigaijh;
streams, have shrunk in their oozy beds into mere brooklets. The level u|)lands n(;ar
the dikelands are occupied by miles and miles of "streets," with long streams of hand-
some, well-built houses, the homes of thrifty and prosperous farmers. Spring opens
early, and summer lingers long in the sheltered villages and secluded hamlets of Corn-
wallis. The South Mountain screens it from the fogs and chill breezes of the Atlantic,
and the North Mountain serves as a barrier against the still denser fogs of the Bay of
l^'undy. One of the finest views of the valley is to be enjoyed by climbing up North
Mountain near its termination in Cape Blomidon. At your feet lie the little town of
Canning and the village of Pereau.x. In front stretch long lines of "stniets" with
orchards and iarm-houses— churches rising here and there where population is thickest.
Across the valley, miles southward, is Kextvillh, nestling among the brooks that rush
down the gorges of the South Mountain, a pretty and tidy town almost hidden from
sight with its glorious elms, chestnuts, locust trees, willows, and apple-orchards. Farther
to the left, some eight miles, is Wolfville, another town famous for its elms and
orchards, its white cottages, educational institutions, and its wealth of legendary and
historic associations. I'retty clusters of houses dot the landscape far and near, while, as
your eye turns eastward, the view embraces Grand Pre and the whole scene of the cul-
mination of the Acadian tragedy. How changed this valley within the century ! Then-
appears to be not a remnant of the old .'\c,-idians in a place once so dear to them,
and in which they battled so bravely with the.- sea.

A favourite view of this lovely valley, with the Basin of Minas, is from Acadia
College, which itself occupies a commanding site on rising ground at Wolfville. This
view embraces the " Land of Evangeline," the spot which Longfellow's muse has con-
secrated for all time. Tlu' Grand Pre 'vhich stretches between Wolfville and the
Basin of Minas, was evidently redeemeii ijin the waves. It is ilat, perfectly monoto-
nous, except when dotted with cocks u, new-mown ha), or with great loads read)'
to be hauled to u])Iand barns. Strongiv-built dikes keej) back the sea, except when

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tliu Bay of I'lindy ha« hrrn fillrrl to overflowing by a mighty gale. Then the waters
ovcrleaj) all l)arri<Ts— ol.l dikes and luw together, and tiic flooded lands arc rendered
infertile for a year or two, lia|)()ily these great invasions do not occur fn(|iiently, not
oftener than once; in im or lvvclv<' years.

Specimens of lii.- genuine old Jnnch dike are few. and becoming fiwer. The best
sample is near " l,<»ng I'.land," which lies between Wolfvilie and Cape Hiomidon, and
which is an island no loiijn i, One is still able to trace the fonmlations of the Acadian
ciiapel .It (.rantl I're, 'I here are grass-grown h- "ows where cellars were wont to be.
Relics are picked up from lime to time which uiged to the .Acadian perioil. .Some-

times coffins are disturbed by the plougii. Eartiienware is also occasionally found which
once did duty on the Hide-* of the cpiiet but stubborn race that so [lersistentiy hated
liritish rule. I'lie most interesting, because the most certain, relics of the olden time
are these long rows of wilhnvs, and thest gnarled and inos-,y apple-trees.

'Ihis district was settled early in the .seventeenth century b) immigrants from La
Rochclle and its vicinity, Owing to the fertility of the soil iuul the ahiiost complete
e.xemption from tli(; ravagen of war and ti\e burdiMis of i.ixatiou, the people prospered
greatly. Tliey were on lerm^ of perfect amity with the Indians. Their loyally to
brance was .is intense an their h.itred of linglaml. Indeed the French authorities took
pains to cultivate their nynipathy. Ilaidh a war of any accotmt was w.iged on this
continent between I'Vanw! and I'jigland in which the Acadians failed to take part ; and
they fought with the Hdf.mu;rilicing ardor of the early crusaders. After the conquest
of Nova Sct)lia .md iin perin.inent cession to Creat Britain, the Acailians refused over
and over again to lake the (,,iih of allegiance. Living on Ib'itish terrilor>, they claimed
to l)e "neutrals." Not unly woidd they not take up arm, for the King of C'.reat
Britain ; the)' could not !«■ tniHted to abstain from acts of hostility against him. They
sent supplies to ih<' hrenrh at Louisbnrg, at Fort Beausejour, and elsewhere when
supplies wen- sorely ner-ded at Annapolis and at Halifa.x. They were allowed the free
exercise of their religion ; they were not to be molested in jjerson or property so long
as they woulu consent to be mibjerts of the British crown. But it was here that their
great dithculty lay. Distance in linn; and spac(! had made old I'rance dearer than ever
to their hearts. Their colliHions with the New England militia and other representa-
tives of British power had only intensified their hatred of that power. They were in
full sympath) with the Indian tribes in all jjarts of the country, and entered into their
plans of offense against the British settlers an^.l garrisons.

Vicar-General La Loutre, who came to Acadia in 1740, was a man of indomitable
perseverance and restlRSH tMUerprise. He at once gained the confidence of the Acadians
and the Indians ; and hi;, grand aim was to keep them in a united attitude against the
English. He was in full «ynipalhy with the feeling then universal in Quebec— intense
l()\alty to France, and a determination to promote French interests wherever possible.
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He transgressed all bounds of prudence in the measures which he devised and carried
out. For example. Beaubassin. a pleasant and prosperous village of i.ooo inhabitants,
all Trench, wa. by his orders utterly deserted and then burnt, in order that it might
not pass under British control. This act will explain to some extext the spirit which
led to the "expulsion" of tiie Acadians five years later. La Loutre's orders were
earned out with promptitude, for he had bands of Indians at his back who were glad
to punish any disobedience. Several years before the expulsion, the people of River
Canard. Grand Pre and Piziquid sent deputies to Governor Cornwallis asking leave to
evacuate the Province, and intimating their determination not to sow their fields
Cornwallis answered them in the most conciliatory terms, and in perfect good faith.
He warned them against La Loutre. who had ordered the savages to cut off those that
should remain loyal to England. He told them of the inevitable ruin which would
come upon them should they persist in disobeying their lawful king They were now
subjects of Great Britain, not of France; no one could possess houses or lands in the
Province who would not take the oath of allegiance, and those who left the Province
would have to leave all their property behind them. In a few weeks deputies from
the same places appeared again before the Governor, asking permission to leave the
Province. Cornwallis replied that whenever peace was restored he would furnish pass-
ports to all who wished to go; but at present he refused, because the moment they
stepped beyond the border they would be required to take up arms against Great
Bntam. He assured them that their determination to remain in antagonism to Great
Bntam gave him great pain. He praised their virtues and their exen,ption from vice.
He added: "This Province is your country; you and your fathers have cultivated it •
naturally you ought yourselves to enjoy the fruits of your labour. Such was the
des.re of tlie king, ot,r master. You know that we have followed his orders You
know that we have done everything not only to secure you the occupation of your
lands, but the ownership of them forever. We have given you also everv possible
assurance of th,. enjoyment of your religion, and the free and public exercise of the
Roman Catholic faith." He pointed out to them the immense advantages they would
have m the large markets that would be opened to them, and of which they would for
many years have the monopoly, for they possessed the only cultivated lands in the
Provmce. " In short, we flattered ourselves that we would make you the happiest
people in the world."

Connvalliss successor. Governor Hobson, was not more successful than Cornwallis
m wmnmg the Acadians. La Loutre and his Indians had their affections and their
fears as well. Disaffection prevailed among them to such an extent that they refused
to sell wood and provisions to the British soldiers stationed among them. The
infection of disorder and discontent extended to the German colony in Lunenburg
Three hundred Acadians, refusin.r work

good \»^j^os at Halifax, and disregard

ing

OF THE CONTINENT

the Government's orders, crossed over to Beausejour to work under La Loutre, Here,

then, we have the explanation of the ever memorable tragedy of 1755. France and

England were contending for supremacy in America. It was the death-grapple of giants.

The Acadians for forty years had been un-

der British sway, yet refused to become

citizens and availed themselves of every

opportunity of promoting the interests, real

or supposed, of France. They built licr

forts; they fed her soldiers; they fought

her battles. The British authorities knew

Iv^.EicijUii 5S*

111,
'n.

.i;!i

III)
Jiii

■li.i

MARINt: SUP AND DOCKS, VAKMOL'TU,

that a French conquest of Acadia would be hailed with exultation by the Acadians
throughout the whole territory. Looking at the matter from the New England and
British point of view, it is not to be wondered at that decisive steps were taken.
Harsh and deplorable as the measure was,— it was war. It was a piece of public
policy designed to ensure the possession of Nova Scotia by Great Britain. It was one
of the steps in the great drama of concjuest in the New World. That the British
were not moved by greed for the fair, rich lands of the Acadians is abundantly proved
by the fact that Grand Pre lay desolate for five years after the expulsion, and that
the other depopulated districts were some of them nine or ten years without a British
settler. Seven thousand Acadians were induced to leave all they possessed in the
nch old settlements of Acadia in order to be under the French flag. Their houses

iii,i

"■H

THE EAiirERNMOST RIDUE

• 'i

4ii

wen- either h.irni l.y ilu- Indians or allowed to go to ruin; and their fields were left
uncultivated. 'I'h,. suffering caused by this voluntarj- migration ^vas very -reat. The
sacrifices made by the t-migrants were incalculable. The fact that theAaulians pre-
ferreil such ,.erilH ',m\ deprivations to citizenship under the British flag, enables us to
view the •• IvspulMon of the Acadians" in its true light.

During tht' Hpi-ing and summer of .755, the Acadians were required to give up
their fir.-ann., Symptoms of uneasiness and dissatisfaction were noticed amonj them
The commanding nflkTr at bort lulward reported that they had acte.l towards him
w.th "great In.ol.MU'.-," leading him to believe that they had secret intelligence of an
<-xpected French invasion. bifte.-n representatives of the Acadians appeared in Halifa.x,
on th.. :,rd juh, before (iovernor Lawrence and his council, when their faults, errors,
true position, advantages and duties were fully explained to them. They were asked
to take the oath of allegiance, but after much deliberation they declined. They were
told that they would henceforth be regarded not as subjects of the British King, but
of the King of |.,..,n.<., and as such they would be treated. The council then resolved
that th.- .\ca.lian. .hould be ordered to send new deputies to Halifax with their de-
cision, whether they would take the oath or not; and that none who refused to take it
should be afterwardH permitt..d to do so, but "that eff<-ctual measures should be taken
to remove all such rncusants out of the I'rovinc..." This decision was cnveved to the
delegates, who, b.T.uning alarmed, offered to take the oath. '\^^.^■ w-r,.. however, n<,t
permitted to do ho, but wen: kept as prisoners on .St. (-...nrge's Island in Halifax har-
bour. Governor Lawrence confern^d with A.lmirals Hoscawen .md Mostyn. and both
agreed with him that it was time the French should be n-ouinnl io take the oath or to
leave tiu- country. This w..s on the ,4th July. On the .5th July, deputies can.e fro.,
the brench in Annapolis, intimating their determination to tak.; no "new oath." Covrr-
nor Lawrence plainly intimated to them what would be the n'suit. He asked th.-m t..
reconsider the mailer till Monday, for if once they refused the oath, thev should ha\,.
"o other opporlunih ..f t.tking it. On Mond.ay. July 28th, the full council met with the
Acadian deputies, all .jf whom made substantially the same report.-that they had
already taken the <|tialified oath of fidelity, and that they would take none other. The
whole bod\ of delegates were called before the council, au.l the case again careftdly
explained t.. liu-m ; but they all peremptorily refu.sed th.: oath. The Acadians knew
what they were doing; and they did it deliberately. They risked all-and lost

'Jh.' decision nf ih,. authorities was taken. Arrangements were made to remove
the Acadians ab<.ut the Isthmus, in what is now the county of Cumberland. The turn
of those at MinUH was to come next; and those in Annapolis and Yarmouth wen- to
follow. Colonel Whmlow was in command at Minas. His instructions were to collect
the people and pliue them on boanl the transports which the government would fur-
nish. Two lhoii-,and pgrsuns were to be removed: live hundred to North Carolina

OF THE CONTINENT

one thousand to X'irginii : fivn hnndrod to Maryland. They were to be sent thus far
away, to prevent their easy return. One thousand were to Ix; removed from An-
napolis, and to be scattered thus — three hundred each to Philadeipiiia and Connec-
ticut, and two hunch-ed each to New York and Boston. The reason liu-y were not

llai

siiu])!)' sent o\er the border, was ex-
plained by Governor Lawrence : " As
« their numbers amount to near se\en

thousand persons, the drixint,^ them off,
with leave to ,sto whither they pleased, would doubtless have strengthened Canada wiili
so considerable a number of inhabitants, and such as are able to bear arms must
have been immediately employed in annoying this and tlie neighbouring colonies. To
prevent such an inconvenience it was judged a necessary and the only practicai)le
measure to divide them among the colonies, where they may be of some use, as most
of them are stro-ig. healthy people, and they may become profitable and, it is possible,
in time, faithful subjects."

The effort to remove the Acadians from the istlimus, and what is now known as
the New Brunswick side of the Bay, proved a total failure ; but a large number ot
their dwellings were destroyed.

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1 111

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77//;" EA^TIiRNMOST R/DGli

Around Minas Rasin the deed was done secretly nnd thomncrhly. On the 5th
September, 1755. in obedience to the summons of Colonel Winslow, the p.;ople of
Grand Prd, Minas, and River Canard, "both old mon and yoimir men and lads of ten
years of age " assembled at the Grnnd Pre Church. " to hear what His Majesty had
authorized him to communicate to them. ' At first, four hundred responded to the call.
These were frankly told that in consequence of th'sir refusal to take the oath of allegi-
ance, all their property, o.vcept their money ami houscjioid ^oods, was forfeited to the
crown, and they themselves were to be removed from the Provinces. They were to
remain prisoners till placed on board the vesseln which were to bear them away.
Families would i)e conveyed togetiier. About two liuiull'ed were to be brought from
Piziquid (now Windsor), and the total number to bu umbarked at Grand Pre a'mounted
to i,y23 persons.

On the 30th August, Winslow writes to the Lhut-Governor that the crops are
down, but not housed on account of the weather. -=lhut the people think the soldiers
have come to remain with them all winter. " AUhou,;h it is a disagreeable duty we are
put upon. I am sensible it is a necessary one," Thu noldiers, who were taken Into
confidence, had to swear an oath of secrecy. On llui 41I1 September, "al). the people
were quiet and very busy at their harve..t."

On the 5th September, Winslow was very Luny from early dawn. He ordered
"the whole camp to lie upon tlieir arms this d.iy," "At 3 in the afternoon the
French inhabitants apDeared at the chm-ch at Gr.iud Pre. 418 of their best men."
Twenty of tins number were allowed to go back to th'-lr friends at Canard and other
places and tell them what had come to pass. GuartU were doubled. Regulations were
made to ensure the safety of the prisoners, and, addn Winslow, "Thus ended the
memorable 5th of September, a day of great fatigue ftiul trouble." Millers were allowed
to keei) their mills at work. The prisoners in the church were fed by members of their
own families, Winslow did his work "without any nceldent to our own people or to
the inhabitants." The officers had to be on the alt-ri. fur. we are told, "The soldiers
hate them [the Acadians] and if they can find a |M-etenca to kill them, they will." The
women are reported to have been remarkably calm, alniOMt indifferent. On the 9th. an
ominous stir being noticed among the prison.-rs, Colonul Winslow tes.olved that fifty of
the young.T m.M, should be pLii aboanl each of ihe fiv,; transports in the bay and
should be under guard. The prisoners w.^re drawn up hIx deep, the young men to the
left. When ordered to march to tlie vessels, they HOKWfired tiley would not go without
their fathers. Winslow told them that "\o" was a word he did not understand, "for
the king's command was absolute and should be absojutt-lv obeyed." He ordered the
troops to fi.x bayonets and advance towards the priMonefs, He marked o-t 2.1 and
ordered tiiem to proceed. He look hold of one "and bi.l march. He obeyed -ind the
rest followed, though slowly, and went praying, singing uiiU cn/ing, being met uy the

Mil

OF Till-: CONTINENT

He orriered
ftertioon the
• best men."
d and other
Illations were
i ended the
were allowed
bers of their
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The soldiers
/ will." The

the 9th, an
that fifty of
the bay and

men to the
: fio without
rstand. " for
ordered the

n"t lA ami
Ved 'irid the

met by the

«vomen and children all the way (which is one and a half miles) with jrreat lamentations,
upon tneir knees praying." '■ The ice being broke," as Winslow puts it. it was easier

to induce the rest to proceed. Two hun-
dred and tliirty were embarked tliat day.
Winslow himself speaks of it as a "scene
of sorrow." The vessels dropped down
stream. Provisions were carried on board by their friends, and as many visiiors as the
boats could carry were allowed to come and go. On the nth, twenty more were sent
on board. There was a period of tedious and anxious waiting, week after week, until
the wet, stormy and chill October days came, when tents were but poor protection for

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THE EASTERXMOST RIDGE

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the soldiers, am) Winslow was almost in
despair. More transports were ordered,
;-.y; and .were expected, but tiie) were des-

perately behind time. Disasters here
and there interfered with carefully ma-
tured plans. Couriers and expresses made the best speed they could between Halifax
and Cornwallis and Chei<,mecto ; but bad roads, rough seas, contrary winds, often
causi.'d delays. The poor Acadians still tiiought that it was only a scheme to
frighten tlunn into taking the oath of allegiance. The longer the stay th.e less likely
it seemed to iliem liiat they were to be torn from the land tiiey loved so well. On
the 6th October, Colonel Winslow writes, with unconscious pathos: "Even now I could
not persua<le the people I was in earnest." On the 7th, 24 of the French young men
made liieir escape off two of the vessels — how, nobody could tell. On the 8th,
Winslow tells us that he began to embark the inhabitants, who went off very sullenly
and unwillingly, liie women in great distress, carrying their children in their arms;
others carrying their decrepit parents in their carts, and all their goods, moving in
great confusion,— a scene of woe and distress." In course of a few da)s twenty-two
of the twent\-four who had escaped out of the vessels came back. Two refusing to
surrender had been killed by the soldiers. On the 27th the preparations for setting
sail were completed : the Piziquid contingent of about a thousand souls was combined
with the people from Grand Pre and Gaspereau. It is easier to imagine than to de-
scribe the scene that must have been presented, as the nine transports, convoyed by a

OF /■///:• CONTINENT 9,,

man-of-war. dropped don-n Minns Basin, out of sight of the lovely Gaspereau Vail.)
and the bold headland of Hlomfdon. and Cape Split, and all the islands and hills
and famdiar shorc.s of home and native land. More transports were need.'d for
Wmslow had six hundred Acadians on ius hands, collected at River Canard an,l
Fereaux.and more distant localities. Weeks lengthened into months of weary wailing-
and it was not till the 3olh of December that " i'hins Osgood" was able 'to report
that "the last of the Frencli sailed tliis afternoon."

The whole number of hous.s destroyed in this district. 255; barns, 276; mills. ,, •
church, ,. Total people shipped auay. z..^.. Only two deaths by violence occurred'
Ihe force under Winsiow numbered y.o. The.se uu., wen. with hardly an e.xceplion
New Englanders. Xo doubt OKI l^n.^dand approved of what was done ; bu, ih.. renu.val
was devrsed and carried o„t by hard-h..aded New llnglandens. In Annapolis n.any
escaped to the woods; but ultimately upwards of eleven hundred were placed on boar.l
transports and sent away. One of tlie vessels, havin.^^ 326 Acadians on board, was
.seized by them in the Hay of Fundy and taken into St. John, whence the> made good
their escape.

The vessels employed in transporting the Acadians numbered in all seventeen ; and
the persons removed were about three thousan<l. These peace-loving and gregarious
people were scattered far and wide among an alien race who were ignorant of their

i;!i

•111
m
11:1

\M
lid

"■•ate-' »■

VALLKV OK THE GASPEREAU.

language and hated their religion. They were snatched away from scenes of loveliness
and plenty to be Hung as beggars upon the cold charity of people who wished to havu

ft?'

('°4)

IW i MW i W

j;'K

■JH ■? "1,1

■d'

i .

*■•■

100

7///i EASTERNMOST RIDCE

not ,n, to do w,th them. It is estimated that at least two-thir.ls worked their way
baci<. some .n a few months after their expulsion, some after an exile of nearly fifteen
y^n^s. Before the end of the century all the Acadians were reported as 'wholly
Bnfsh subjects, and enfrely changed from their fornu,.- sentiments." They were
"among the most faithful and happy subjects of His Majesty"

The expulsion of the Acadians was but an episode in a great epic of which the'
Amer,can contment and Western Europe were the arena, l-Vance and England were
contendmg for supremacy in the New World. The destinies of unborn nations were
mvo ved For England the outlook in .755 was dark enough. The shattered remains
of Hraddocks dl-fated expedition were entering . ..iladel^:,ia about the same time that
V\ mslow was gathering the Acadians to the little chapel at Minas. The sad Acadian
episode is thus explained: we do not say that it is justified.

The story of Ev.....um.: has made the region classic. Longfellow had never
v.s.ted Nova Scotia; and his ideas of the topography of the Masin of Minas were ob-
tamed at second-hand, kit the picture he draws is fairly accurate

The railway now passes through the Grand Pre. and the Grand Prd station is near
the s,t. of d.e historic chapel. As a tribute to the ,a.n. ioa, the engines bear such
names as " Evangeline," •' Benedict." " Basil." and " Gabriel."

The Gasp.reau River flows into the Minas Basin within easy sight of Grand Pr^
It was at a point a short distance up from its mouth that the transports received the
weepmg Acadians. and still a little farther inland they sought sh..k..r when the rough
autumnal gales swept down upon the basin, churning its waters into spray. The tide
rushes up the Gaspereau with great force for four or f.ve miles. l.oHowing the river
:n .ts mnumerable windings, you are led into the boson, of the South Mountain
KKlges nse high right and left, with space enough between to allow of a succession of
l.msperous farms on each side the river. There, sheltered fron, every stormy wind
.^n .osome m orchards, stand the neat white cottages of a happy and peaceful peas:
antry. The stream becomes more rapid and its banks more picturesque as you ascend
us course. Sa mon pools abound. By and by the stream gracefully leaps some twenty
f<-et down a ledge of rock. The fall is pretty, and when the river is full with spring
or autumn rams, the music of it is borne upon the bree.e for n,iles. The source oi
the nver . a series of forest lakes near the height of land where the misty Atlantic-
sends up .ts clou s to unburden themselves ere they spread their kindly shadows over
the Cornwa hs Valley. Here. too. as far up as the fall, the feet of the Acadians trod
and t e.r han s toiled. The trees they planted are growing still, the fields they
..leared y.eld abunch-nt crops, and the dikes they built resist the invading tides ThI
traveller sees so much to attract attention along the usual routes, that he is aot to
over!. ok the Gaspereau Vallev : but ,e. Hin, come here for a picture of rural comfort

and beauty,— sheltered from

the North and West

wui

ids by the bleak rid

^e 01 the

OF TJHi CONTINENT

iOl

ced their way

nearly fifteen

d as "wholly

They were

of which the
England were
nations were
cred remains
me time that
sad Acadian

vv had never
nas wtsre ob-

ation is near
:;s bear such

Grand Prd

received the

1 tile rough

The tide

ng the river

Mountain,
uccession of
tormy wind,
aceful peas-
you ascend
Dme twenty
with spring
: source of
ty Atlantic
idows over
vidians trod
fields they
des. The

is apt to
al comfort
yre oi' the

■.vm CoQPtj^^

.MOITII or TIIK (lASl'KRKAC, AM) (,KAM) I'kK,

Horton hills, and from the South and East by th,. lofty forest-crowned ridges of the
South Mountain.

The peace and loveliness of the present ca-w s one back by way of tragic contrast
to that morning of F(.l;ruary ,o, .747, when under cover of darkness and a furious
snow-storm a band of 346 Frenchmen, pounced suddenly upon the Eng' .h garrison of
47c men quartered among the houses yonder The attack was wholly .mexpected.
The English were sleeping in fancied security. Their assailants were completely suc-
cessful, and the decimated garrison agreed to march off to Annapolis Royal, leaving
70 killed and 69 prisoners. The French lost only 7 or 8. Happily, battles, surprises,
victories, expatriations have long been unknown in these valleys. The on.y strug-
gles are with the forces of nature ; and all the victories are those of peace.

The North Mountain is a mighty rampart of trap-rock, running all the way from
Digby Gut to Cape Blomidon, at an almost uniform elevation of 450 feet. The rough
waters of the Bay of Fundy have been beating against this great barrier for unknown
ages, and the results are many picturesque coves, bold bluffs, bleak headlands, beetling
crags. Here and there, wherever convenient shelter offers, fishing hamlets cling to the

1*1

:;ti

!):i

'III

Si9'

»i»

rill

^;.i i

*lte'

lU2

I- 8' ■ » 3"'

I *:,

TUJi liASTERAMOUT RttH.li

ihtis or nestle in tile coves, nfferinj; in tlie hottest ilays of summer, relreais cool
• iioiijrli to satisfy ones utmost wish lor i)racinjr bree/c^s. As ilie tide rolls up, anv;ry
and brown, it cools the air which rushes in with the tide at half ,i j^ale.

Hlomidon has been happily compareil to the handle of a Iiiil;<- wallviny-stick : ih(;
North Mountain beinn; the stick, and the v\\^\ ,,f the curved handle b.inc^ Cape Split,
brom a distance ii .ippe.irs as if juttin;^ into the liasin .it a sh.up .inL;le ; but the e.\-
|»lor. r (i"uls that it curves i;racefull\' down Minas iihanncl till it terminates in tiie curious
puuiacles of Cai.e Split. Thi' boldest part of i^loinidon is a strand sandstoni' cliH,
about 5ui) feet hinh, and a (piarter of a mile in len.i^nh. I'arth( r on comes the columnar
trap rock, beetling anil d.irk. but relie\cd i)_\ occasional intermi.xture of bri.t;ht red.
.sandstontf. Liule rills tumble down heri' and there from the summit, and a constaii':
(om-se of disinteirration is .^oint; on. b'.irlher alonj; tlie curve the hill is less steep.
L.iiid and w.iter come to a kindlier meeting. '! lie explorer steps ashore .ind finds rare
lerns, and n'joices, perhaps, in emeralds, at^ates, ami amethyst.s. Inilied, lUoinidon every
spriuij; drops from his crown (,or out u[ his numerous pockets) m.iin brit;lu and precious
thin,ij;s, th-- choice siiecimens fallin.L; to the lot of the (;arliest searchers. (it-ms from
i51omiilon once sparkled in the crown of I-rance ; and it is <|uite likel)- that nothi!-,j,r
more valuable was <lisco\ired in the sixteenth century than m,i\ be stumbled upon
now, il you come aloiiLi sufficiently early after the frost-, of winter antl ihi; storms
of spriiiL; h,i\c done iheir work. As you ;ipproach Cape Split the tide becomes more
r.ipid and there are eddies and whirlpools that ilemand careful seam.uisliip. A Pro-
fessor oi .\c;sdia CoIIcl;", and two or three companions, were lost lure sonu years a^o
throu,L;h imaulious sailin.L;-. Sudden ousts often descenu from the hills on both sitles
ol a narrow ch.unie! which rims betweeti I'.lomidon and llje I'arrsboro' sliore.

(ireat masses ol ( londs atid of foe often roll up this ch.miul mkX over the summits
of the mountain, carrsin^ one back in ima^in.ition to the period not very ancient.
,Ljeolosricall\ , when a lui.i;<- volcano was .utive here; when the air was .larkened with
ashes and scoria-; when the Cobecpiid hills and the South .Mountain eclioed the
thunder ol volcanic explosions; when mii,dity streams of lava llowed westward, we can-
not tell how many miles. \'olcanic .iction is |.lainl\ visible past Di^bx Xeck, and in
the beautilul basaltic cliffs of Uri.n- Island, Mountains orow old .nul \ ield to decay,
and niouudon and the North Mountain are no cNception to the rule. The face of that
noblest of our sea-clills is d(:eply starred and furrowed by torrents. The frosts, melting-
snows, and scouri^im; rains loosen vast ipi;intiti(-s of debris, which, tumbling to the base,
the tides sweep awa\ . Yet the beaut\ of the Cape remains. "The dark basaltic wall,
crowned with thick woods, the terrace of amygdaloid, with a luxuriant t^rrowth of light
tureen shrul)s and youm; trees thai rapitlly sprine- up in its rich and moist surface, the
precipice of bright red sandstone, always cleat, and fresh and contrasting strongly with
the trap above and with the trees and bushes that straggle down its sides and nod

trt:als cool
up, aiiKry

<;/■• ////:' LON'/7\/-:\r

KJ,?

^Vja-U <«^HHI

'■m2 '

^■%'*.

.,4^*

.Vn-v*

.♦ \

-S»'i.,_ ^ 'tf*^i.

nil

• I,!

CAPF. m.(jM:r)ON, mimas basin.

:%^^«*'.

ovet" its ravines, constiiiiic a com-
bination of foniw and coli:)iiis
rqualiy strikinv, il seen in llic
ilistance from tin- Kili> oi i ior-
ton, on the sliori' ni i'airslioio',
or mort- ncarlx from the sea, or
from tlu; stonx licacii al its base."
Tile best i(nv of Cape Split
is from Baxter's Harbour, about

l\v(.> miles distant. In the foreground is a beautiful waterfall, some forty feet high,
lumbiing irdu a deep, dark gorge, uhicii is overhung l)\ liuge m.isses nl trap-rock.
Across the waters of the semi-circular ba)- the oddly isolated peaks ot Cape Split rise
out of the water, and if the water is still are mirrored on its surface.

nil '

' '4-

'mirmmnt v fffii | j i n|iit>)j || n

itr

i . «.

11 ^.

104

'////■ EASTERNMOST RIDGE

s.
en

We are now, as Indian legends tell, amid the scenes where the wonder-working
Gi.ooscAP, the semi-divine Medi.Ttor of the Micmacs, displayed his power. He was the
Indian's friend, and was always ready to help those wiio would receive his counsels.
He was e.valted over peril, sickness and death, iitul was the enemy of the magician
Minas Basin was his beaver pond, dammed up hy Mjomidon and Cape Split, which th
(the legend says) stretched across to the Parrshoro' shore. As the dam was flooding
the whole valley, Giooscap swung the- barrier out of the way and pushed it into its
present position. In his conflict witii the great Heaver, he flung at him huge fragments
of rock which have been changed into the I'ivc Islands, Spencer's Island is Glooscap's
overturned kettle. .-Ml the Acadian land was ilcar to him. He could do' wonders for
the people, providing abundance of fish and game, The powers of evil at one time
came to overthrow his great wigwam and put an end to his reign. But h-j sent a
mighty storm, which quenched their camp-fires, ;uul then a bitter frost, which caused
them all to perish in the forests. Tiie ways of l.c.ists and men becoming evil, Giooscap
was sorely ve.xcd ; and, unable to endure them. In; must p.iss away. So he made a rich
feast by the shore of the Minas Lake. All ihr beasts came and partook of the feast,
and when it was over, he and his uncle, Great Turtle, stepped into the canoe and went
over the lake singing a song of farewell as t!ie.\' went towards the West. The beasts
looked after them till tiiey could see them no more, and listened till the singing became
f lint and fainter and died awa)-. Then a grciit silence fell upon all ; and the beasts,
who till then held council together and sjx.kc but one language, now tied and nev(>r
met again in peace. AH nature mourns, and will mourn till Giooscap comes again to
restore the golden age and make men and animals live happily together. The owl hid
herself in the deep forest to repeat every niglil her mourning cry, and the loons, -that
had been Glooscap's huntsmen, fly restlessly up and liown the land seeking their friend
and wailing sadly because they cannot find him. According to one legend, it was not
till the English came that Giooscap finally turned his hounds into stone and passed
away. One story tells liow he travelled with majestic strides from Newfoundland to
Blomidon, thenc(; to Partridge Island, and thence to the unknown lands of the setting
si,n. His companions "being weary, he, with swift, strong hand, built a causeway to
make their journey easier.

Leaving Wolfville, Horton, and the Gaspereau Valley, we reach Avonport, at the
mouth of the broad and turbid Avon River, We next come to Hantsport. Passing
the orchards of Falmorih, we cross the Avon over a long iron bridge, and arrive at
ship-building, ship-owning, gypsum-exporting Windsor. Here HaJiburton, the author of
Sam Slick, was born, and here for a number of years he lived. Concerning the
scenery he writes :

'• He who travels on this continent and does not spend a few days on the shores
of this beautiful and extraordinary basin may be said to have missed one of the great-

nder-working

He was the

his counsels.

e magicians.

t, which then

was flooding

d it into its

ye fragments
I

is Glooscap's
wonders for
It one time
Jt h° sent a
I'hich caiist'd
vi\, Glooscap

made a rich
if the feast,
ae and went

The beasts
ging became

the beasts,
1 and never
les again to
rhe owl hid
i loons, 'that

their friend
, it was not

and passed
)iindland to

the setting
:auseway to

port, at the
:. Passing
d arrive at
le author of
;;erning the

the shores
f the great-

i f'.

OF THE CONTINENT

«05

LOW I'lUIi. WINDSOR.

est attractions on this side of

ic water."

The finest view of Windsor and the Avon is

to be had from the ruinous old Fort Edward.

useful once for defense, but long since a mere

reminiscence of the storms of a dead century.

The Avon when the tide is out seems a broad

stripe of dull red, marring the landscape, with

merely a rill of fresh water winding threadlike through it. It has

been described as a river that runs first one way and then the

other, and then vanishes altogether. The large ships are left higli

and 'Jry, leaning against the wharves, in seeming helplessness. But wait an hour or

two. See how the water rushes and pours in, hissing, foaming, eddying, boiling,

■Ml

'•l

111

'Hi

lui;

!ty

\%\

if'

\ !

"111.

:i»

io6

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

ill.

\ Hi

till it rises almost by leaps and bounds to the full height of the banks and dikes, and
the vessels float easily upon its bosom. King's Coli-Egk. Windsor, was founded in
] 787, and is thus the oldest college in Canada It received a royal ciiarter from
Geoi;j;^e III. in 1802.

East of Mina- Basin is Cobequid Bay, which receives the waters of the Shubenacadie
River, along whose course ran years ago the " SiiuiiENACADiu C.\nai,." This canal \\ is
one of the earliest enterprises of the kind in Canada. After costing the country, and
several companies, many tiiousands Sie ling, it pro\ed a total failure, and it is now a
ruin. The river flo\, : through fertile meadows that unfailingly yield magnificent crops
of hay. The turbid tide of tiie Bay of Fundy rushes inland some twenty-five miles,
making tiie river for some distance navigable to the largest ships. Thj tide here, \n
rapidity and height, is equalled nowhere else in the world. Hence, navigation is ex-
tremely dangerous, and deadly accidents were wont to be startlingly numerous. iVlany
spots along this river are " haunted," and weird stories of ghosts, visions, apparitions,
sudden perils and hairbreadth escapes abound. Maitland lies at the mouth of tie
river. Maitland siiips, captains, and crews are heard of in every sea from the South
Pacific to the Baltic. Man)- a pleasant home that overlooks the rapid ebb and tlow
of the Shubtuiacadie thri\es on the well-earned wealth brought home from far off lands.
Near Maitland is a remarkable cave. The moutli is large enough to permit easy en-
trance, and llu- cave widens as you go in, until its roof is from ten to twelve feet
above your head, and the walls stanti far enough apart to allow of a dozen men walk-
inpf abreast. It has never been fully explored; but it is at least a quarter of a mile
in extent. The rock is plaster of Paris.

Truro, a few miles above Maitland, sits prettily amid well-tilled fields, fragrant
gardens, rich orcliards, Densile elms, and here and there groves of evergreen. Her
horizon is houiuled by long ranges of hills, still ciolhcd with their own hard wooc'
forests. Exceedingh' pretty scen<;s ap; to be found in the \icinity. Leper's brook
tumbles down a crag some twelve f<>et, -.md forms as graceful a cascade as the eye
could wish to resi. upon. The .Salmon River and the North River tlow through fertile
meadows under branching willows an<' stately tilms. MacG'regor, in his " British
America," describes Truro as " The most beautiful village in Nova Scotia, and as far
as my impressions go, the finest I have seen in .Xmi'rica." This place, like Cornwallis,
had been settk'd by Ac.idians ; but they were removed. Not till 1761 did their succes-
sors come to possess the rich heritage. They were mainly North of Ireland people
and their descendants, from New Hampshire, who responded to the Proclamation of
Governor Lawrence inviting immigrants to fill the blank caused by the expatriation of
the French. In a very few years the settlers had their church and school, their parson
and school-master, and Truro has continued to be one of the educational centres of the
Province. It is now an important railway centre ; but a hundred years ago there

• l,

OF tha:

NTINENT

107

was only a bridle-track to Halifax. Amoiij; the tirst settlers were four brothers, Arclii-
l)alds, from whom all the Archibalds in Nova Scotia and many in the other Provinces

ind the United States are descended. David Archibald, the first Truro majjistrate,
was wont not onh to pass sentcnc(', but to execute punishment with his own hands.

Two boys who were captured h\ liim in the act of steaiinjr apples on Sunday were
imprisonc^d in his cellar, anil on Montla\- wcrt: tied to tin- tree whicii thev had robbed,
and there caned !

Skirtinij; the head of the bay, one sees in every creek and gully the work of the
Hay of Fundy tide. A wide extent of dike-lands, redeemed from the sea by the
Acadians, is still as fertile as ever. .At Masstown — where there is now no town — there
stood the largest chapel the iM-ench owned in Acadia. It was visible from all sides of
C'obequid Hay, and here the [)('0[)le came to mass from great distances. Hence the
name of the place. No vestige of the chapel remains. The dikes, the poplar, the
apple-tree, and the willow are the sole remembrances of the Acadians. We are now
within easy reach of one of the most stirring hives of industry in all Canada. Two
mountain streams cleave their way through the Cobequid hills, or wind around their
rough spurs, and unite their waters just aft(M- passing through deep and gloomy gorges.
.\t the junction, the Acadi.\ Minks are situated. The village is built on more than
seven hills- on a small sea of hills and it is out of the ijosom of the hills that the
(ire is extracted which gives work to so many hundred hands. The spot, irrespective
of the iron works, is picturesqui' in a high degree. Far off southward are the gleam-
ing waters of the bay, and beyond are the blue hills of Hants County; north, east,
west, are the Cobequid hills, witii their goodly crown of forest, their deep, dark gorges,
tlieir hurrying streams. The town is built without the slightest regard to symmetry.

Ihere are two immense blast furnaces, heated, throbbing, angrily shrieking— di.sgorg-
iiig great streams of molten metal which, in tlu' saiul-inoulds, is formed into pig
iron. The heat of a furnace filled with molten ore cannot be much if at all short
of 1,100 degrees b'ahrenheit. i'wo furnaces are kept conlinuallv at work, the smoke
of their burning rising da\ and night in the heart of the town. A railway is con-
structed upon which the ore is carried from the mine some four or live miles away.
These mines are not so deep, dark, ami dirty as ordinarx' coal mine.s. Cornishmen,
Nova Scotians, Swedes, Irishmen, aiul Scotchnum emerge with their faces painted with
red and yellow ore, and with a keen appetite for dinner after half a day's work.
Seldom is there aught but peace and good will among the toilers underground, or
around these raging furnaces: but at no time tlo they appear better natured or to
greater advantage than when hurrying in friendl;,' groups to their meals. Besides the
blast furnaces there are long ranges of coke ovens, and iron works where the "pig"
is transformed into bars, sheets, wheels, axles, and

dark nights the village has the appearance of

a 1 i^

I sorts of articles in this line. Ii
tive volcano. At stated periodi

;!i

.i;i
\\\

MX
\\\

'»:

'"'^iai^

I'H'

iu^.'ll

l:i.

108

7//£ EASTERNMOST RIDGE

the Iava.HtPf.amN of -slap" and iron pour forth liquid and fluent as water. GhostK
lanes of liyhi JNm,,. nut from every openin<r of the great structure surrounding tht-
furnaces, ami Uit-rc- is the constant clank and crash of machinery and the mighty

roaring, full of repressed fury, of the furnace fires. A hun-
dred and fifty thousand tons of coal are annually consumed.
The furnaces can easily manage seventy thousand tons of ore.
These works will be to Canada what the Krupp works at
Essen are to Germany, or those at Creuset to France. They
will grow as the Dominion grow.s.

Great Village, in the vicinity of Acadia Mines, is a con-

■RIDGI'.S Al WINttftOK.

venient starting point for explo-
ration on tlu! Hdi'lh of Basin of
Minas, where the Mienery is often
grand and always lieaiitiful. You
watch the Hwtlling tides of the
bay; you note tile successful efforts of human enter-
prise to bridle the angry waters and to redeem thou-
sands of acres from their sway. A-: you travel past

Parrsborough and the classic clifTs of Cap d'Or, westward and northward, you come
to the Joggins, a scene of petrified forests dear to the heart of the geologist. It is a
spot where thp process of world-making, past and present, may be studied to good
efTect. Coal is found ; and there are submerged forests, trees standing as they stood
when still growing, hut now turned to stone. The tide beating against the coast
wastes away thcMe rocks as well as all else that comes within its reach. Farther
up the Cheignecto Buy ate to be found forests below the present sea-level and not

m '

OF THE CONTINENT

loy

ines, IS a con-

yet turned into stone, but evidently sinking slowly as those other older forests sank
ages long ago.

Following up Cumberland Basin, we come into the region of rich marsh-land,
Hikes, great herds of cattle, vast expanse of meadow dotted here and there with ham-
lets and villages. The dike-lands of Nova Scotia cover nearly 40,000 acres, and addi-
tions are made from year to year. The largest share of these fertile acres is under
the spectator's eye as he gazes over the Tantramar Marsh, an inexhaustible mine of
wealth to the agriculturists around. Here are visible a few vestiges of the war-
period— -Fort Lawrence and VoxX. Cumberland, the scenes of the last struggles between
nationalities which now dwell together in peace under the folds of the British and
Canadian flags. The passions of 1755 are as obsolete as these forts and this old
rusty cannon. The town of Amherst is a pleasant little hive of human life. From its
hillside it looks abroad on as fair a rural scene as Canada anywhere presents — marshes,
meadows, orchards, sloping uplands, dark belts of forest.

The Cobequid range runs through Cumberland, Colchester, and Pictou counties, a
length of over a hundred miles. The hills vary from 400 to 1,000 feet in height.
I'Vom the summit of Sugar Loaf, at Westchester, we can see at the same time the
Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and portions of the three Provinces of
New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and P. E. Island. Embosomed among the.se hills are
many beautiful lakelets, from a few rods to five miles in length, usually abounding in
salmon trout. Following the Cobequid range eastward, we look down upon sunny val-
leys, fertile fields, great breadths of forest, towns like Pugwash, Wallace, Tatamagouche,
and River John, all bordering on Northumberland Straits, and all largely given
to ship-building and the lumber-trade. At last we come upon Pictou harbour, a
singularly well sheltered, land-locked, quiet sheet of water. Tb" land slopes upward
somewhat steeply from the shore, until it reaches bald and bold summits at Frazer's
Mountain, Greenhill, Fitzpatrick's Mountain, and Mount Thom. The harbour receives
into its bosom the West, the Middle, and the East rivers. The valleys through which
tiiese rivers flow are thickly settled with prosperous farmers. The uplands and hillsides
have been bravely attacked, and in most cases compelled to yield an honest livelihood.
In summer Pictou harbour is enlivened by the presence of ves.sels and steamers from
many ports. In winter it is thickly sealed with ice and gay with the sports of skaters,
curlers, and sleighing-parties. Scenes of great beauty are presented to the eye as one
ascends the Pictou hills — scenes in which field and forest, hill and valley, river and shore,
.md shining sea appear in well-ordered array. The sky southward from the town is
often blurred with the smok<! that ascends continually from the coal mines in the dis-
tance. Pictou harbour is by far the best on the northern coast of Nova Scotia. Its
only drawback is that it is frost-bound for four months in the year. The rivers are
not large, but some cf them present scenery of the loveliest character. The East River

:!i

\\\
lit

\n
til

m -

(■■JCiSIt

i '111

TlIJi l-.ASIHK.WMOSr K//)(iH

tfi

1st

-St

for many miles Hows tlimu.t;!, a vallry ,.,\luns.|nr a. ll... I rnsnaclis. Sutherlaml's, Barney's.
:uui West riv.Ts liave tlicir claims c,n tlie t.nirist's all.M.li,.,,. Ti,e sportsman loves their
banks and often traces them far up amon.t,^ the hill, to the h.ndy loch or mountain tan,
whence they heoin their coursi;.

The nam.- I'm to, is of Indian orioin. Its m.-nnlnitf in uncertain, p-ishermen from
"1.1 iM-ance found their way here early in the „„h .rnttn-.v and were deli.irhted with the
alnuulance of tish and ,<;ame of all kinds, from ih.. oy.ler to the seal and walrus, from
the otter to the moose. Monsieur Denys, (iovern.U' of llw C.df of .St. Lawrence som.
240 y,.,rs a,t,ro, speaks of -oysters lar-er than a sho.. and nearly the same shape, an, I
th<-y are all v<.-y fat and of ^-ood tast..." The Mieuta. Indians, a branch of the Ali^on-
quin race, held dominion at one time from N'irMinia lo Labrador. Thev occupied Nova
Scotia. Cape Mref.n, l>. l^ Island, and a lar.v p,,r, ,.| New Hr,mswick. ' Pictou was the
centre of their power. FL-rc,. battles were fought between ihem and the Mohawks, the
latter fierce invaders from the west. Haltk.lield. hav,. been discovered, presenting
l-roofs of war's .leadly work- human bones, brolaMt .knIK. stone axes, flint arrow heads^
spear heads, and other implements. Though these wars are centuries old. the Micmacs
still remember with terror the invasions of the Mohawks and have a .superstitious dread
of the very name.

The iM-ench made no permanent or effective Heulcnn«nt in I'ictou ; but some relics
of their temporary visit remain -some rust-ealen yi,n., some well-tempered swords, a
few luiman skiiletons.

Attempts at settlint,^ Pictou were made by the MHtish between . ^65 and 177^,.
Immen.se tracts of land were .^rranted to specidators on conditions .generally easy ami
reasonable. Benjamin iM-anklin was interested in the I'hiladelphia Company which, on
tlu- ,oth of June, ,767, actually eff<xte,l the Inst f..ol,l,. nettlement, consisting of twelv
heads of families, Iw.mU) children, one convict servant, an.l perhaps one or two coloured
slaves. These came by sea from Philadelphia, ,n,d wnv met shortly after their arrival
in Pictou by live or six \<,uno men from Truro to afford some help in bec,ri„„ing their
campaign. •• The prospect was dreary .Miough. An unbroken forest covered the whole
surface of the country to the water's edge. Whut In now the lower part of the town
was then an alder swatnp. All around stood th- mighty nionarchs of the wood in their
primeval grandeur, the evergreens spreading a sombiv n.vcring „ver the plains and up the
hills, relieved by the lighter shade of the deciduous tmcH, with here and there some tall
spruce rising like a minan^t or spire above its fr.li..WH," The white pines, in great
nuntbers, reared their tasselled heads 150 or 200 feel,

This little band of Philadelphians were the orjy \',n^\\^U settlers on the coast for
H di.stanc- of some two hurRir<:d miles. They had especte.l to find here dike-land<
similar to those which had previously attracted seltltM'. lo (irand Pre and other dis-
tricts on the Bay of Fundy ; but in this they were biifrly disappointed, and fell

antl's, Barney's.
nan loves their
' mountain tarn

isliermen from
i.ijlit(;{l with thi-
(I walrus, from
-aurcncc sonn'
Hie shape, an, I

of the Aljfon-
occupied Nova
Picton was tiir

Mohawks, liic
ed, presenting;
t arrow heads.
I, the Micmacs
;rstitious dreail

Lit some relics
-■red swords, a

■65 and 1773.
ally easy and
any which, 011
ting of twelve

two coloured
■ their arrival
spinning their
Med the whole
t of the town

wood in tlieir
is and up the
here some tall
nes, in great

the coast for
re dike-lands
id other di.s-
ted, and felt

or rill- coxriMixr

III

f.<_n'i^

themseKc's in utter exile. Most of tliem were
eager to return in the little Hope, which hati
borne them thither; but the Captain slipped away in the night, leaving them to hattit
for life as best the\ could.

The settlers ol lo-day in the wi'steni prairie, or in the backwoods of the older
Provinces, may well learn courage from the experience of these Pictou pioneers.
During the first year they lived chiefly on fish and game. In the spring those who
were able walked through the pathless woods to Truro, a ilistance of forty miles, and
returned each with .a bag of seed-potatoes on his back. The crop was good, but not
large, as they had not been able to clear much ground. The second winter also was
one of severe privation, and in the spring they had to go again to Truro for .seed.
Cutting out the eyes of the potatoes, they were able to carry much larger quantites,
and they succeeded in raising enough for their winter's supply.

On the 15th I^ecember, 1773, the ship Hcitor. with 189 Highland emigrants on

\\\

board, arrived. The voNaire had been lo

nij ai

id d

rear)- ; su|ip

ies fell short, and a

number

of women and children died of small-pox and dysentery. Till the Highlanders arrived

S9'

I uini

,»;]i

,"'311

. ill.

Is*

THE EASTHRNAJOST RUX.E

the Indians had been troublesome. They were now told that men like those who had
taken Quebec were at hand. When they saw the Highland costumes and heard the
bagpipes, they fled for a time to the forests, and never gave farther trouble. The
■irrival of tlie Jhctor marked an epoch in the settlement of Canada. The stream of
Highland immigration poured into Pictou, Cape Breton, Prince Edward Island, New
Brunswick, an.l portions of tiie Upper Provinces. The newly arrived Highlanders suffered
incredible hardships for the firsi niu.. or ten years. Patiently, sturdily they struggled
with difficulties from wiiicii tiie bravest might well shrink. They had to travel through
the woods forty miles to carry potatoes and other provisions on their backs for their
wives and little children. One bushel of potatoes was load enough for a man.
I le had to spend three days on the road. Streams had to be forded, stiff braes to be
.limbed, steep banks to be descended, storms of snow and rain to be encountered.
Sometimes the potatoes would {xv.vy.v. on the burdened back. After the third year they
were able to secure at least the necessaries of life without the terrible pilgrimages to
Truro. In 1775 their poverty was aggravated bv the arrival of a group of Scotch
families that had been literally starved out of P. J'. Island by the devastations of a
plague of mice. The Highlanders, true to their character, welcomed the starving
strangers, and shared with them to the last morsel.

The War of Independence was felt, the first settlers sympathizing very decidedly
with the Thirteen Colonies, while the recently arrived Highlanders were intensely loyal.
The result was that the disloyal element was gradually crowded out. Slaves were
owned in Pictou. Matthew Harris sold .\bram, a negro boy, to Matthew Archibald,
of Truro, for the sum of fifty poinnls. This transaction occurred in 1779. In the
reconls of Pictou, in date 1 7S6. we have a document duly attested, signed, sealed, and
delivered, testifying for the information of "all men" that Archibald Allardice sold to
T)r. John Harris "one negro man named -Sambo, aged twenty-five years, or thereabouts,
md also one brown mare and her colt, now sucking, to have and to hold as his pro-
perty," as security for a d.4n of forty i)ounds. Slavery did not live long in Nova
Scotia ; nor is there on record a deed of cruelty to a slave in Pictou

Valuable additions to the population were made shortly after the close of the
American war, Scottish regiments which were disbanded on this side the water having
large grants of land assigned to iIkmii. Many of the descendants of Highland veterans
still nourish in this county and Antigonish. In 1786 there was immigration direct
from Scotland, and this movement continued and increased in subse-cpient years,
the county becoming dominantly Scotch, Highland and Presbyterian. It was in this
year that the Rev. James MacGregor arrived and began his missionary labours. The
young minister (afterward well knoun as Dr. Marr.rrg„r) travelled from Halifax
on horseback. From Halifax to Trun)

roac

JUt a 1

ough bridle-track ; from
Truro to Pictou there was but a •■blaze," a mark on trees, along the line that

lose who had
id heard the
ouble. The
he stream of

Island, New
iders suffered
ley striiggh'd
ravel thioujjh
icks for their

for a man.

braes to be
encountered,
ird )ear they
Igrimages to
p of Scotch
stations of a
tiie starving

ry decidedly
enscly loyal.
Slaves were
' Archibald,
779. In the

sealed, and
lice sold to
thereabouts,

as his pro-
>i\\r ill Nova

lose of the
I'ater having
ind veterans
ation direct
uent years,
was in this
)oiirs. The
iin Halifax
rack ; from
e line that

OF THE CONTINENT

".5

was to l.c travelled. On his arrival at I'ictou town there were i)nt few buildings, anil
the woods ('.xtendeil to tin- water's edge. On the 2;,rd of July his first S(;rnu)n was
pr.'aclicd in a barn. In 1787 th.- first two chnrcht's were built in the county. 'riic
minister, abhorring slavery, was resolved to put an end to it in Piciou. lie did so by

ACAbiA MIMCb.

paying fifty pounds to Marris, the owner of a young mulatto girl. "Die Mingo "—twenty
pounds the first ><:ar. and the balance in course of the two succeeding years. His
stipend was tW(Mil\-seven pounds !

The town was coniinenceil on its present site in 1788. .\fter a feeble beginning
it grew rapidl)-, and was particularly prosperous during the Honapartist wars. .\ vigour-
ous lumber-trade '-(Mitred here; ; prices were exorbitant ; tlu; dcniaiul was greater than
tlie supply; money was plentiful, and there was no thought of the ilays of adversity,
In 1820 came a relapse— a collapse— which was, however, partially redeemed by the coal-
trade, which commenced with considerable vigour in 1830. Other towns have sprung
uj) in the county, which are likely to outstrip in population the old shire-town ; but
I'ictou is a well-ordered, well-educated, wealthy place, of about 4,000 inhabitants. Its
Academy was one of the first, as it has been one of the best, educational institutions

Nova Scotia.
I'or amenity of situation Pictou cannot easily b<

rpassed. On tl.f lide of

••i<

ill
ui

SliJ
•311 'i

* :j ;

rm- liASTERNMOSr RIIHili

I. '

\\ ■

*i,

■ ^

ill

r ■■ '

'Ah

1 •.

sreii

tly

risinif lull. It loiniiiaiKU a view of the \u\v\\ Im^jh {d « h

hosom It IS

mirrored with nia'ncal distimt

Dcss \vluMH\rr tlic wimls ari' stil

() loM ever dims tli<'

air. wliic

h i

s cool an(

even in tli<' licii

ol sinniiicr : and in winter you

may alwa\s conni on snow eiionnh lo make iravellin^^ l>y s\v\<^\ jiracticable, I"

woatluT is nuuli less i-haniielii! than aloiii^ the .\tlanti(
the town are tiood. and the favourite drives lead

I'oiisl, rile roads Icadiiijf to
to sifiies hii^hly (jictiir('s(|iie.

i'ictoii has its hanks, eonrt house, piihlic schools, (hiiiviies, and eiejrant |.rivat.

■.U|i|i(ised to lie alis(diilfiy esseii

(UvcUino-Jioiis

esides all these, it has (what is not

lial to the happiiK'ss of a modern communitx ) a haunted

house

lallen clii

ninevs,

lirok

en wiiKlows. cleca\ins.

tree-stone

pillar

s, doors

\W on nisl\ hinges, weed-nrown

i,rarden walks, fences liroken down the

surroiinilinv's

deck

ihi-

lilace IS

haunted

was th(

It was once a scene;

o( activits.

i-lleriJV,

a\el\, ,uii

^IH'.

ol the countr\-si

le f(

^|iace ol thre

I Ue.illh
d miles.

e owner

I'int

industrious, vi<j;ilaiU, i^eiu'rous. kind-heart

(•(!, he siKceeiled m all his iinderlakin

Mortimer died at t

le aL;c o

f tiftv-t

wo. worth. It \\a

s siipiiosed

le hard tim.;s and li'rrible revulsions of iSjo and

erprism^
lulwan
a million dollars

•ediii!^ years dissipated 1

t'stat(! so

that

It nothing; but a \ er_\- inotlest jointure wa^ left bir his wid(

lis

louse

in which he lived has Ioul; been desolate, and his w»-allh has vanished, but his nai

is lu'ld in grateful

reniembranct

(ih

is a ra])idly rising- town on the I-last River of I'ict

lie

oil, near the (>reat

coal-iiimiiiij district.

■tof

ore it has been noted fiu" its shi

p-liUlKlllli

)ut it IS now

enL,fat,n'ni.,'- in other iiuliistries — iron-works, steid-work

s. jjiass-work'-,

(Ml and

luilding iiiav' bo

ilevelopet

d h

ere when the timber sup]

UK'S are exhausted

steel ship-
I'he Mast

ivcr,

before

reach Ml' r

the to

vvn, l)ecoilles

a tidi

il stream, aiii

loses Its iiio.mt.im lorci;

and purity.

lic'fore; leaviiiLi I'ict

ou we must nieiitioi. the " \vax of the Mi

Cur

loiislv eiiousjll.

there are on record several visitations of tli

e mice plague in

Isla.nd ; but we k

now

)f onl

V one such m

ova Scotia.

lis was in i<Si i

he mice ea.ne, no one

iiovvs

whence.

iieir iiuni

r was so vast that it was as im|

lossilile to ill!

thi'ir ravaii'es

he seed

;rain in tiie

as it would be to bridle the locusts of the i'last, Tliev devoure

lields. They ate the seed-potatoes. Thc'V destroyid the yrowini.; crops. I'lieir march

was toward the seashore, when; they perished in heaps and \.

W like lines ot seaweed

Ni'KioMsii is pronounced the prettu^st villa^

e 111 eastern

ova Scotia.

pearl set in the !.;reen of rich lields and meadows. The while dwellings ijleani out
cosily from anionL,^ the overshadowini; trees and the siirroundinj^ shrubberv. A river
from the far off (luysboro hills winds its way b\ church, and mill, and tidy hamlet,
and pastoral scenes of exquisite loveliness. The cra,s.i;s of .Arisaij,; at no !.;reat distance
tell the story of the earth's geolo<,nc (tras with marvellous dislinctness, and henctr are
precious in the sitjht of the geologists of the Old World and I lie \ew. Not far off

liosom it is
■cr dims the

uiiilcr you
cable. I'lu!
i loaflinv; In

|)icturcs(|ur.
;aiit |iii\atc
iliitcly (.■sscn-
II cliimncvs,

\\(('(l-t;i-()\vn
lis |)lacc is
I Ik' owner
'inti'i-prisiiii^,
rs. luivvard
lion dollars,
ssipatcil his
rile house
ul his name

ir the yrt-at
It it is now
1 steel ship-
I'he Ivast
.intain lorc(;

1^1) eiiouj;h,
)ut we know

one Un(j\\s
irir ra\a,<(es
strain in the
I'luir niarth
)f seaweed.
a. It is a

jrleani out
A ii\cr
id\' haiidet,
at distance
1 hence an;
\'ot far off

OF THI-: cOi\' I i.\i:.\ r

inland is the hcaiitifid I.odiaber I. .ike, its hanks o\ ershadoucd l.y in.iplrs. heeches. and
elms. When allam.' with the tints of autumn, and ihe lake relleetN the iLjreen and j,'old.
the lieauly is redoubled. St. Ninian's Cathedral, .Xnti^^onish the se.it of the ISishop of
.\riehat, is one of the most (ommoilioiis ecclesiastical structures in the Maritime I'ro-
vinces.

■*^,-*.t --■■■*.;• , .

NliW (a.ASGOW,

CAPE B R ETO N.

To one visitino- the Dominion from the Straits of Belle-isle. Cape Breton is the
advance yuard and promise of Canada ; and, in every sense, Cape Breton is worthy to
stand as ■; sentinel in th(' j^reat j^ate of the St. Lawrence. It has riches in coal and
minerals complementary to the bountiful harvests of the fertile West. Its clifTs and
capes and the Bras d'Or are tjermane to Niagara and the St. Lawrence : and the
traditions of Louisbiir_sr should kindle the imagination of the Canadian to as bright a
heat as ti' se which glorify Quebec.

We cannot approach this island more favourably than by the way most convenient
to the people of more western Canada. The passenger by the railway catches
glimpses of Uie broad e.\panse of St. George's Ba>-, with the Cape Breton shore

::i

KNTICKING AN lIGONIbll.

■' ij.i I

lying like a cloud on the horizon. He sees over deep yor.i^jes the wooded back of
Cape Porcupine, and soon i.y a steep incline the train descends to tlie level of the
Strait of Canso, a ma<,rnincent natural canal fifteen miles lon.i( by a mile and mor<'
in width, which separates tiie island from the mainland.

Indian legends 'ell how the Divine Glooscap was stopped in his mission to New-
foundland by the waters of th^s str.ii^ Not to be L)alked, he suunn.Mied a wlude, which
bore him safely across. The prohlc. a" present agitating the Cap.: Hreton mind is
how to get the railway across— iiow tu . ■: . le J-.- . iu.r.se liirougli these siieltered val-
leys and under these towering iiiils, and ix:.:.Sh these streaiv, an.l straits, to St. Anne's,
or Cape North, or Louisburg. A ..vaii o:.^a,-i ferry w.l; bear mails and pas.sengcrs
thence to the west coast of Newfoundland. Traversing that island by rail, the longer
ferry from eastern Newfoundland to Ireland will bj crossed in three or four days.

\tm

•*\s

ided back of
level of the
c; antl more

on to New-

wliale, whicii

'ton mind is

heltered val-

St. Anne's,

i passengers

tlie longer

four tla\s.

OF run cOiWTixi-: r

Thus it is iioped that mails and j assengers will be I orne from continent to continent
in less than five days.

At early mornimi we take a steamer down th( Strait, whitii even within its nar-
row boundaries seems to possess sonietiiing of the dignity of the sea. 1 he sun rises
over Cape Breton and bathes the sloping shores of the Strait. At Hear Island the-
steamer turns to the left, through i.enno.x Passage between Cape Union ami Isle
Madame, where there still survives a small colony of French tisliermen. Loii., vistas
open uj) seaward betvvern the islands, and we catch glimpses between the shores of
bay^ which rearli f.nr inland.

Tile prini(!v d forces which made for the iak(,'s of the Bras d'Or a bed of irregular
and fanta.uir outline, left at St. Peter's a narrow isthmus through which a canal has
been cui, h\ ^vhich the steamer reaches the Bras d'Or. Here, about 1630, (irsi of white
men, the Sieur Denjs settled, a brave and pushing pioneer, with his fishing stations in
Nova Scotia and the Bay of Chaleurs, ready to defend his rights against all comers.
In journeys between his two Cape Breton stations, St. Peter's and St. Anne's, he must
iiave traversed tiic Bras d'Or, and, perchance, less than any ex|)lorer of this continent
would he find changes in the country with v/hich he was once familiar. The hillsides
have been somewhat cleared, there are houses and a church about the lovely little
lagoon at Christmas IslantI, a village and a settled countryside at Baddeck, a.id late
harvests ripen on Boularderie Island. North of the Bras d'Or are mountain ranges
encircling lakes, and dividec by rivers, the valleys of which are sheltered and fertile.
Beyond these again is a dreary tableland, and within seventy-five miles of Newfound-
land Cape North stands in silent grandeur above the surges where mingle the cur-
rents of the gulf with the waves of the Atlantic.

I o those wliose taste is robust, the Bras d'Or presents a succession of delights.
The shores rise here into gently swelling hills, farther on into forest-covered mountain
crag.s. In the pellucid waters are jelly-fish of tints so exquisite that the name of any
colour seems toe crude to describe their hues. The outlook at one time expands
over a vide lake, at anothv..- the steamer follows a silver thread through the Strait
of Barr; --ong arms extend beyond sight to within a few miles of the Strait of
Canso on one side ; on the other, even nearer to the waters of Sydney harbour.

I he atmosphere is not that of inland landscapes which gives hard outlines and
harsh colours. It has the cleirnes, not of vacuity, but of some exquisitely pure liquid;
and blending outlines and colotirs save the wilder regions from savage roughness, and
throw a softness over all which adds infinitely to its' charm.

One is surprised to find that a long morning has been spent without fatigue bi^fore
the steamer imsses throi

P
Boidarderie Island,

the wider of t!

two passages w

hich,

ith

connect the lake with the Atlanti*.

To the 1;

ft' suie o
stretch the

precipitous shores where Smoky Cape in the distance wears above its purple steeps

' illl

'•I
Ul

'41

..11
'111

tt\

Wl Jl:.

118

th<- halo ,)f

y///: Ji.lST/iAWW/iKS/' h'//)(./:

\'a|jiM r wliuli siiL;of

stcd

lis I

•III"'. On the ri^lu hand t

m isolated rock into t

)(■ sea lias uroiioju

II' si'inlilancc of a h

ii'i'i' inrlli', an

ik has bctjii iindiTmiiifd in lu,, |ilacc-, |i\ ij
■\l hcach. in shape like a sU'cp-roolcd warcl

>!• '.ni'tir

d larthiT on

Us uii'l-coxcn

lono |)uint of
|ioint anil the

time tlu'v. too. will sncfiinili, Tlicn af
and in its jilarc will remain a Ioiil; and d,

loiise, stand isolated and i^annt until

ii'!' sonii' iiicnioi-alili

point will (lisa|)pear.

iii''i'rons rec

The I

larhour of S\(liii'\, sheltered,

' oniniodiiMi'-, and ol eas\- a(

inaritinie \aliir. 1 )in-in" tiie

:'iess, is of no mean

season ol iKuiijalion si

troni the more sonthi'rn port-, of the I'niled

tor hunker coals and lie chistiired ahoni ilie rollier\- wl

with the mines in the interior, With ih

carry illy tc)al to .\l(

earners on the xovasje to I'

nrope

Slates, and from tlie St. I,

iwreiice, c;

iar\-es which i-ailr

oaiis connect

ese are sonie ol the maiU' Slea

mers en"a<>cd m

)ntreal, and linmhler (raft which supply th

taut market-

e nearer and less niiiioi--

he mine on ihe shun-s of ,S\(|

th(; e.xpo^etl oiitports in which \-essei

\ilney li.irlioin- has ereat advanla

"OS o\cr

s take in (ar^d, Mam llsh

ini; and tradine scl

10011-

ers he off th

e new and more active town ol \orih S\ilne\-, while the fr

I'rench and Hr

itisii miMi-of-war i^ixe di-nilv in ihe older h

<|nent visits nf

he harhoni- divides int

o two Ljreat arm-., ,ind

on a |)eiinisiila which marks tl

entrance to the Soiiij

iw(.si arm stand-, ili,- i,,wn ol Svdiie\, wliicl

1 wa-

hef.

ore the

union of Cape Hrelon and Xova Scotia, ill

seal ol Government. ,\t th<' end of th

peninsula are th.- rem.uiis of e.irthworks ,ind dilapidated ,uid d

Sjarrison wliicii w.c st.ilioiK

■n- until the (.'riniean W

lories an to he found onlv in the trad

rearv ipiarters for the
ir. OtlK'r traces of ileparted

have not tak

"I'ln.ns ol ih,. inh.iliitaiits. Their spleiuh

en more coiiciete shape

Hut Sydney at ;'ii earlier da\ ihan tl
irriiiy sceiK's. {•reiicli and Mri;i-,h lleet-, |

lal ol i|.

ossession li\ the Hritisli ha

s seen

l.ive made Us h;

now. in peace., hut as a point of \aiita.M in ll

reiulcz\ous. not, as

leir slruL;-li- Inr tl

where on its shore-,. Admiral llovuden W.dk.-r, r.

atjaiiist ()

le continent. S(

InrniiiL; Irom his unsuccessful attc

nipt

-"•'"'■ "'^ "I' '' '"'•"■'! '"■"''■ I'v his -diip'., earpenter claiming ilie ishnul I.

his master. liut t

W(i yrea.t sie

'I'he old

'■"' '" '■'■'^nll in \i,i,,r\ hefon. it hecam

name of S\(lne\. .S

e liritish.

I''"^''"''''^ "•'\' '■'I'"- li'iin ,1 time when, although the lisl

rouiKis were neutral, lishemien of dillereni n.ip.uial

o that the occasions of rekii

ilies resoi-ieil lo diHerent

nil:.

■ irhoiirs.

dlini^ in the New World ||

a battlcfiel

ie animosities which made luirone

d niioiit, as ranch ;is possible., |„. .uoided, 'j'l

•Sydney. th<. {•rencli to St, .\nne, while kainhsh p.u'i. il

e Spaniards came then to
"' name of I .ouishiinj before it

oc'canie

;i I'lvnch stroiii^rhold. shows thai ii had lie,.|i ihe ,1

ios(.it r(.sor

t of l'

iisiiermen.

nojisli

one of th,.se nations laid 1 Liim 1,, ||

istice depended on a coi

ISensils ri| I)

le <ustonis which Lrre

enforce it. |'|

of this neutralit). are fiill\ described in Mr Hn

"' i-^land : there w(.re no laws, and

I'iiii'in .imon.. enough tap'taius 01 ve.s.scis able lo

" "P ""'l-'i' lliis condition of affairs, and the value

n's " I [isl(U-\- of C^•lpe Hret

on.

OF Till-: COXTlAliXT

point and the
;ainu until in
will (lis:i|)pcar.

Loiiishuro is the place in Ca|)(' Mrcton ahnnt

which are collected most iiistoric

nienioiies and tiadit

ions.

Other places in the Hi

lion have the di^iiit\- which attaches to tl

sc(,'ne of

:reat deeds ; but in most of them tl

le claims of the present on the attention of the

iii

Lawrence, call
roads connect

l\anta<4es over
I'adinij- schoon-

x'oiis. not, as

ame IJiitisli.
1 the lishin^

made jMirone

ame then to

s.scis able i(

visitor are insistent, 'I"he c.iinmercial marine which lies in the stream al Oueh

and the hustle of a modern town, dr;

iw us away Iroin the memories of C'hamplain

and I'l-ontenac. of Wolfe and Montcalm. it

is yet mo|-e dil'licilll to reali

/<■ on till

thamps de Mars of Montreal tl

Kriiain, and of the I

lai there hax'e Keen paraded the armies of I-"r,ince. of

nited States. Hiu uheii one looks over l.ouislmr". he sees onl\

a few scattered houses alon-' the shori', a few I'lshin- hoats in the de

harbour. The life of lo-dav has not stir encni-h to ilisturb whatever reali/atiou of th

past his inia,L;ination Ik

point to the .Southwest

'p iaiul-lockci

IS power to frame. It seems strange to think that on that h

w.is once a lortr

ess repii

led

which was of lirst

imprei^iiable, a town the trade of

in .\

importance, that, although it was the key to the !•
merica, it was twit.' cajitured, and that after both victories V.
\\ t

reiich possessions

iiidisn cities -.wmX

colonial towns w<-re iliiiininated and thanksL,dvinir services held in all th

eir cnurclies in

;ratitud(^ f(n' a cri

owninir victor

Milt

camp-tires now twinkle in the shadow of the low hills, no ships of

ps ot wur are

tiSi

■111

120

THE EASTRRXMOST R/DGE

shut into the harbour. All is changed except the outline of sea and shore, and the
beating of the surf which French and British heard in the intervals of fight. Here,
no less than at Quebec, a great stride onward was made by British prowess. ShoiiM
not some memorial be raised which would show that Canadians, living when these

NORTH SiDNKY.

animosities are dead, are still mindful of the great deeds done on Canadian soil .>
There could be no fitter site than tin; old burying grountl of Louisburg, where French
and F:nglish dust commingles in peace, and where the ashes rest of many a brave
New Englander who fought and fell in the gigantic strife between two great races.

I he Island of Cape Breton is loo miles long by 80 wide, and covers an area of
2,000,000 acres. Nearly one-half consists of lakes, swamps, and lofty hills. The coast
line is 275 miles long, and the centre of the island is occupied by the Bras d'Or, which
nearly divides the island into two. Indeed, St. Peter's Canal has effected the division.
In 1 765 Cajie Breton was anne.xed to Nova Scotia. Twenty years later it was made a
separate Province, and so continued til! 1S20, when it was again united to Nova
Scotia.

The people of Arichat and vicinity are almost all French. The rest of the isl,

mil

is peopled mainly by Scottish Highlanders, who still cherish their ancestral Gaelic, and

shore, and the
fight. Here,
vess. Should
ig when these

inadian soil ?
tvlicre Frencii
ian\- a brave
L-at races,
i ail area of
;. riic coast
IS d'Or, which
the division.
t was made a
ed to Nova

af the islaiul
I Gaelic, and

OF THE CONTINENT

121

cling to the ways of the Highlands and Islands. France and Scotland were friends
three hundred years ago, and for many centuries before. The old allies meet in many"
of our colonies, and rarely fail to fraternize.

The fertile valley of IMabou, with its adjacent glens and its flanking hills, pays
tribute to the harbour of Port Hood, the only port of safety on the west coast of
Cape Breton north of the Strait of Canso. A small island lies half a mile off the
harbour, and often a strong current rushes between it and the mainland. "The oldest
inhabitant" remembers when this passage was only a few yards wide and was easily
fordable. But the woods were cleared away and the sea made a clean breach over
the little isthmus. A great gale came and ploughed up a deep channel, which has
been widening these sixty years.

Lake Ainsiie and Margaree River are dear to the angler— rich in sea trout and
salmon, and delightful to the lover of beautiful natural scenery. The soil is fertile.
The fores'- birch, beech, maple, and the graceful witch-elm, cover the hills to their
summits a thousand feet high. The roads skirting the hills are like avenues through
the n.nodt parks. Nothing can be more charming than these hills and valleys, lake.s
and streams, when clad in the gorgeous tints of autumn, or the living green of summer.
From Baddeck to St. Anne's Bay, thence to Cape North, over moor and mountain,
through forests dim and silent, over morasses and dreary wastes, is a route becoming
popular with the lovers of adventure when moose and caribou are sought, or when the
angler is anxious to venture beyond the beaten round. No ride could be desired more
beautiful or satisfying to the eye than that around St. Anne's Bay. This harbour is a
possible competitor for the advantages of being the point where trains and swift
steamers shall meet to exchange mails and passengers when the "Short Route" shall
have been established. Great ships can lie .so close to the lofty cliffs that water may
be conveyed into the ship by hose from the rocky bed of the torrent. The French
came here more than two hundred and fifty years ago, took possession of the bay, and
gave it the name tiiat still clings to it. They left it in favotu" of Louisburg.

Ingonish is a little secluded village hidden among the boldest hill scenery of
Maritime Canada. Cape Smoky is cloud-capped, while lower hills and the valleys and
shores are enjoying bright sunshine. Deep ravines and dark gorges furrow the sides
of the hills; and from commanding heights are gained ever varying views of the
maje-stic sea. St. Paul's Island, the dread of mariners, the scene of many a fearful
wreck, stands some thirteen miles northeastward from Cape North. It is a mass of
rock three miles long by oni' mile wide, exhibiting three peaks over 500 feet high-
the summit of a sunken mountain. Thousands of lives have perishcil on this little spot,
but Science, guideil by Humanity, has now robbed the scene of nearly all its terrors.

Numerous bays and headlands have their story to tell of battle, of shipwreck, or
wild adventure. Cape Breton itself, a low headland which gives its name to the whole

iil

iJI
.11
4I

*:ii(

i.: lis

1.) iri.

\'. r-

77/£ ISAiiTI:R\MOST RIDC.E

.MIM.M. ^11 KNKh ( AI.I.IKIMAN MlNKb.

i.Ian.l, rises dili'Hy Hear Louisburfr. llieix' is a tradition that Vera//ano, the eminent
I'lorenline iliHCOVtM'ci-, periHlicd Iktc witli his crew at tiie hands of the Indians. He

OF THE CONTINENT

'2J

sailed into the Atlantic, from I'raiicc. in 15-5. and was never authentically heard of.
Who knows but his bones moulder in Cape Hreton ? British explor(rrs came here before
the close of the sixte<-nth centur\. In 16^9 Lord Ochiltree, with sixty Scottish emi-
grants, tried to found a colony ; l)ut the French put a summary ^wA to the enterpris<>.
It was, Jiow.'ver. a curious prelude to the trrcat cmi.orration of Highlanders in the nine-
tcenth century to which Cape Breton owes so much.

Next to farminj,^- and llshino-, coal niinin.<r is x\\v most important industry in Caj.e
Hrcion, The coal fields arc even more <";aensivc than those of Nova .Scotia. Twelve
collieries arc in operation. .Some of the mines yield the best coal yet found in
America for donu'stic purposes. Souk; arc far awa\ under tlie si-a : some down in the
iicari of the Jdils. Coal minino commenced in Cape Breton in i jcSs. Indeed, iJoston
Puritans wcr.' wont to warm themselves and boil their tea-kettles by means of .Sydney
coal \o\v^ before the chests were emptied into Boston harboiu".

Have you ever been down in a mine? If not, ;i new sensation awaits you -an
e.xperience decidedly diifcrent from an\tliin- to be enjoyed or suffered on the face of
mother .'arth anil in the litrlu „f ihe sun. Cohl, dark -darker than any midnijrht
-loom you may stand by a i)illar a thousand yards away from dayh^ht. The noise
of pick and shovel afar off is ^hostl) and unearthly. Human voices are heard; or
there is the rumble of co,d lailen cars hastt^nin.^ to discharo'e their burden. Reminis-
cenc<>s of Paradise Lost and the Inferno come unbidden and irresistibly, (llimmerino-
lamps irive needed li,<rht and no more. bi-ures movin- about with one bio- "cyi,." j,,
their foreheads, what are they but Cyclopean i^iants :- In the Albion Mines, in the
Pictou coal field, there is proof enou!.,di that fires have been raoino above and below
for the past fourteen years. The lony, dark, but well-aired passages through which
vc wander arc cool enough ; but a hint of smoke is a hint of fire, which is by no
means W(-lcome.

By wa\ of preparation, xou mi^rht first visit a ^old mine, which is seldom verv
<l«'ep. Vou may have to o(, f:,,- i„to the lonc'ly woods to reach the " Diooinos." or
they may lia[)pcn to be near the (hieen's highway, or lie close to the sounding sea.
There are at present Iwenty-.iglu -Diggings" in Nova Scotia. Many have been tried
and exhaiisK'il. Nobody knows hov\ many r ■(; still to be cliscovcrc:d. Usually where
the most precious of metals is to be found nothing else distracts jour attention-
nothing but the hard rock and the ice-like (juartz- no fertile soil, no tempting oak
or pine; no coal, no iron: notning but barrenness and gold! An Indian stooping to
drink at a brook is creilited with the discovery of gold in Nova Scotia some twenty-
hve years ago. It was accident, of course, a shining speck, precious and yellow, in a

)iece of snow-white quartz. Then t

lie

irospector" went out with hammer, pick, shoi

Irill, and fuse ; and he found numberless places where gold might, could, and shoul
le. Only in a few places, however, has gold been found in really paying quantit\

.'I

Si?
91

umt

H.11

•111
.■»
-J

//' I

.1 1'iii:

124

///£ EASTERNMOST R/fHin

I.OIJISHUK(

jje

A "lead "of quartz is found carefully wedg«l in lo^Wf^fM t-not-nious masses of slate and
quartzite. The veins, or "leads," are usually milky whilt- and almost translucent, and
they range in thickness ironi an inch to several fm-t. Unfortunately, you cannot
depend upon them, for they are "faulty" and imcertaiii ; and the best producer of this
year may prove barren and useless next year. Th.^ whitest .|uartz is not usually the
richest in gold. Miners prefer what is grayish or l.-adtMi in colour. They often follow
a "lead" of this sort from loo to 250 feet. .Stamping mills are erected as near the
pits as practicable, and they are run by water power whfre it is available, and often hx
steam power. When 30U approach a gold digging the hrst imlication of proximity is
the ceaseless monotonous thud, thud, thud of the Nlampers which do the work in
the crushing mills.

Since 1S62 about half a million tons of quartz have been crushed in Nova Scotia,
yielding over six and a half million dollars of g,.|.l, lughteen hundred and eighty-
three was the most profitable year in proportion to Hu; number of men engaged in" the
work, their earnings amounting to $2.84 each per day. I'hc largest yield "in" any one
year was in 186;, when 27.3,4 ounces were obtained. 'Ihe ounce is worth at least $18.
No great fortunes are likely to be made in our gold mining; but .t is now demon-
strated that if prosecuted with due care it will pay, h m now ranked as one of our
permanent industries.

Gypsnm is quarried in Hants (^ounty and esp^.ftrd to the United Stales, mainl)
ior fertilizing purposes. The cp.arries are vast an.l Inexhaustible. Great deposits of
iron ore have been discovered in various sections of the ••ountry, either in immediate

OF Till-: CONTINENT 125

contijruity to the coal areas or witliin easy reach of them. This collocation of miner-
als seems to prophesy unmistakaMy the future manufacturing .greatness of the country.
Manjranese, lead, silver, antimony, copper, have been discovered in workable quantities.
I^ut the mining interest which overtops all the rest in Nova Scotia, as well as in Cape
Mreton, is that of coal. Tlie capital invested in the coal mines is nominally twelve
million dollars. I'or many years only one company, th(; General Mining Association,
was allowed to open mines in the Province— a Royal Duke having a monopoly of all
(.ur hidden wealth. This monopoly was broken some twenty-six years ago. The result
was a very rapid development of coal mining, attended in many cases with heavy
pecuniary loss. For a time tlure was progress ; then came a dismal relapse— a collapse,
almost, the trade with the United States having been totally destroyed. Hut of laf
there is advance again which bids fair to be permanent.

•|"he carbonif.'rous formation of Nova Scotia is about fifteen thousand feet deep.
The coal measures proper are about ten thousand feet. Our coal beds contain one
hundred and ninety-six different speci(-s of trees and plants, fifty-four of which are
peculiar to Nova Scotia.

These var\ in size from the tree two feet in diameter to the slender moss and
invisible spore cases. Trees ordinarily contiibuted nothing to the coal beds except

■%iV,:

'P*

LAKE C ATA LONE.

'IK

life

126

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

their barks an<l th,- Crmer tissue of tiieir leaves. I'jants of all sizes coi..ril)iitcd tlu'Ir

.:ortical tissues, it will tax imagination to the utmost to realize the lonjr a,L(es taken in

fillinjj up these vast seams in th<- Pictou c-oa! l.asin. 'IMie plants and trees that are

compressed into these seams <rre\v, (lourisiied, died, d<.cayed here. There was no jrather-

in- in of huoe forests from distant localities to form these treasures ; where the ire.-

fell it perisheil ; wluM-e tlie plant -rew it was turntid into coal-all that would remain

of it. Very inter.'stin^; f„ssils of tin- carboniferous ayes are found associated with our

coal beds. The footprints or th.i remains of reptiles, of snails, of spiders and other

insects have been identified. The lirst trace of reptilian existence in the coal perio.l

was found at llorton Bluff, Nova .Scotia, by Sir William l.ooan. They used to know

Hercules i,y his foot. Well, they mad.- out the very likeness of this poor forlorn

creature that travelled in the mud Hats of Horton millions of y.;ars aj(<,. T|H,y have

given us his portrait, and imparted on the creature a very hard name. The r.-ptiles

of the coal a-es wer(' fond of eatin- one another, though the world was young and

no men lived to set a bad example !

Nova Scotia is proud of her mines and minerals, her uoKI, jn.n, and "black dia-
monds." To develop her n-sources will be a work of tim<- ; but the process is ooin-
on rapidly .mder the eye of the men of to-day. Coal and iron in abundance sidit by
side mean that manufacturing industry must surely flourish here. New (llasgow, Acadia
Mines, the Vale, Stellarton, Westville, Nortl> Sydne> are places that can hardl)- fail to
rise to importance as centres of enterprise and progress. The wealth stored up in the
bosom of the earth countle.ss ages ago lies to-day at our feet to be utilized.

T:.

OF THE COXT/.yj-XT

ij;

CH.\kl.(/l I I. lOWN.

• <

•I
.1

P I^ I N C E E D W A F( D I S L A N D.*

pKINCh: l":n\VARI) island, the .tjem f)f tlu- Gulf of St. Lawrence, lies in the
-*■ bosom of the gri^at Acadian Haj', \vhicli extends southward from an imaginary
line drawn from Cape North, Cape Hnton, to Point Miscoii, at the entrance of Maie
des Chaleurs. The "silver streak" of the Strait of Northumberland separates it Ironi
the mainland. From all higher points of the Cohetpiiil hills, antl from the Mahoii iiills
in Cape Breton, I^-ince Ldward Island may be seen on the distant verge of the north-
ern horizon, closing it in, like dim unvarying cloud. The silver streak is often dolled
with ships; it is sometimes calm as a mirror, sometimes rough with curling bilious;
but the dun line beyond changes not for storm or calm. To the sjiectator on il<e
southern coast of the Island the Nova Scotian hills ])ut on their best appi'arance, rising
in proportions that satisf\- the eye. and nnining in long dusky ranges from west lo
cast. "The Island," as it is fondly called by its p(-ople, is about i;,o miles long. lis
area is 2,133 ^qH'H't' miles. No mountain, no stubborn hills nor barren wilderness, no
stony land nigh unto cursing, no desolate heath — the Ishuul boasts that har<ll\ ,1
sipiare yard of its surface is incapable of repaying the husbandman's toil. It has a line
friable loamy soil, rich and deep, and with the means of enriching it close at hand.

:;.^?i

sit
.4-

!ft!!

■ m\\

; 'Jf!!

: t:

V|!

: Kil

'i ' **"

128

T//Ji EASTERNMOST RIlHili

,^i

IKOM I'icrou TO (;k(iki;i- KiWN,

fm".

»• „ In

Vhv (;.ce of tlic country is -iiinly undulating, like a sea which Iiiis sol)be(l itself to rest,
l)ul has some rcuKMnbrance still of a far-off storm. These h)W-K in- hills which ri") 'he
country from north to south are but the siumberin,^ waves of that ciuiet sea. Every-
where you are near the salt water and can enjoy its bracin- breath from strait or lonjr.
arnKHl crec-k or cove, or from tiie .threat Gulf itself. ■{'houKh the country is level and
fertile, and free from any too obtrusive hills, it aboimds in sprin.s^s and streams of the
purest water. Where a biibblinjr fountain is not near at hatid, a W(;ll is sure to bring
up water without the need of digging many feet from the surface. Not Ireland itself
is clad in richer green than our lovely Island when simimer has be.stowed upon it its
crown of glory. The reddish soil cropping out her.; and there throws into sweeter
relief the tender green of meadow and lawn and ri( h fields which,- at the right time,
will wave with golden grain. In the six weeks from the middle of June till the end
of July it is a i,at-adis(! of verdure, bloom, foliage; no stimled growth, no blight or
mildew to break the toiling farmer's heart.

In the central districts of the I.sland the forests still remain, presenting great
breadths of dusky green, more or less thinned by tin- woodman's axe. The nobles
of our northern clime, the birch, the maple, the beech, the pine, still rear their stately
heads. But here as elsewhere the best, the grandest wert; the first victims I Enough
remain to testify of the fine crop that nature raised long ago. There was a time when
the maple was so abundant that the people made from its .sap most of the sugar th<"y
required, but that time has xanished like the golden age. In some districts the forest

OF TIIH CONTINENT

139

fe^-

(1 itself to rest,

^ which ri') Mk;

; sea. Ever\ -

strait or ionjf-

ry is level and

streams of the

sure to bring

Ireland itself

d upon it its

■s into sweeter

he right time,

e till the end

, no blight or

2senting great
The nobles
r their stately
ins I Enough
IS a time when
he sugar they
icts the forest

is still dense and dark, fit hiding for tiu; poor persecuted remnant of the game once so
abundant. Every year the breadths of cultivated laiui are increasing, and the old
dominion ol tlie woods is becoming more ami more restricted. WC have haidly opened
our ears to the cry, " .Sjiare that tree ! "

There is a tradition to the (effect that Prince iulward Island w.i discovered by
Cabot in 1497 or 1498; but this is at least doubtful. That Jac(pies Cartier must have
seen the low-lying coast as he sailed up the St. Lawnnce then- need be no doubt.
Hut the honour of first naming the island and taking p,)ssession of it for IVance must
be accorded to Champlain. ".Si. Joii.n " was the name he gave it. in honour of the
Jhv on which he discovered it, and .St. John it coniinut'd to be called for nearly two
centiirie.s. In 1 7S0 the legislature, acting on the suggestion of C.overnor Patterson,
pas.scd an /\ct changing th.- name to .\ew Ireland. This wa. angrily di.sallowed, on
the ground that the legislature should have petitioned for the change, instead of pass-
ing a "presuni|.cuou. ict," which was a breach o^ "common decency." In 1 79.S the
legislature passed an .\ct (hanging the name to Prince Iulward, in honour of the Duke
of Kent. I'l-.is .Act ua-. allowed in 1709, and the new name entered into popular use
in iScx). riie Duke never visited the Island, but did all he could to promote its
mai('rial int' rests.

The i'lench can^d lor th.' Isiard chielly for its fisheries and furs. In 1663 all the
islands in the C.vvA of St, Lawrenc<; were granted to Captain Doublet, for the purpo.se
of developing a -grand fishery." He and his associates retained th(-ir grants till the

'•-'s,.

«|

CROSSINC; NOKMII'MHKIO.ANU SrRAlT.
From C.ipe Tornientine to Cape Traverse.

!:»

n<i|i
am:

■:iii '\

? r

'3^

■mii HAsii-RXMosr laiHiE

;r:,^j3 -i«^i.<l

lo/ifH i^usrjcr/

MACKEREL FISHING.

'•^mHB^t^

OF HIE awr/N/iNT 13,

h-ijinning of tho ..ijirluoonth century. I-ishermon came in the sprinr; an.l wont away

in the autumn-in.rr • l.ir.ls of passaRC." Traders I.oukIu the furs' prepareil l.y th..

Indians, yiviny in exchange the spirits and cheap goods in which tl...- Micmac soul

d.:Iightcd. Hut good huid was too pi, ntifui on this side the sea to l.e eagerly sought

out for coU,nizalion. So our beautiful gem of the Gulf lay in unappn dated solitude for

centuries, while in the old world contending armies fought for little jiatchrs of territory.

In 171.3 Newfoundland and Acadia were ceded to Great Hritain. 1« ranee still held-

.ng Cape Breton and " S,, Johr,." French settlers then came in consid.-ral.le n.unbers.

some Acadians seeking refuge h.-re und.T the Hag they loved so well. Charlottetown

was "Fort la Joie," and it was garrisone.l I,y a body of sixty iMvnch soMiers. It was

one in the famous series of fortified posts- Louisbnrg, i'ort la Joi.., Haie Verte, Uai.:

Chaleurs. Tadousac. Quebec. In .75.^ the population numbered .,,,54; but the innish

of the Acadians raised it in 1 75S to over 4,000 -some say ro.ooo. Th.; eventlnl year

1763 saw the Island, in common with Cape Breton and other French possessions, handed

over fmally to (Ireat Hritain. ".St, John" was valued because it lav in the pathway

>.f commerce in the Gulf. It was at once annexed to Nova Scotia, and its Acadian

miiaoitants began to scatter, fearing the hand of the conqueror. Some were removed ;

".any. dreading forcible ejection, hastened to the mainland, and sought shelter in Lower

Canada. The British garrisoned "Port la Joie." and steps were taken to show thar

liie new-comers had come to stay.

In 1764 the British Government sent out Captain Holland to make a survey of
tile Island, with a view to its colonization. The task was part of a vast plan for the
survey of the far-extending Britisii possessions on this continent, and it was being steadily
carried out till the War of Independence inaugurated a new order of things, leaving it
to other authorities to map out and survey one-half of North America I Captain Hoi-
land, with swift hand and keen eye. did his work in one twelvemonth, and did it so
faithfully that to this day his landmarks, notes, observation.s, and descriptions are justly
regarded as authoritative.

John Stewart, in his " Account of Prince Edward Island," published in London
eighty years ago. .says that the Acadians on the Island instigated the Indians to deeds
of barbarity against the English, and that when Lord Rollo's troops took possession
tney found "a considerable number of English scalps hung up in the French Govern*)r's
house.'- Stewart adds that " it is not denied by the old Acadian French still living
on the Island that they were very partial to this .savage practice of their neighbours%
with whom, Indeed, they were very much assimilated in their manners and customs."
Possibly these statements originated in an unconscious desire to justify the harsh treat-
ment to which the Acadians were in some ca.ses subjected.

The survey ot the island having been completed. Lord Egmont came to the front
witn a project for its settlement, which to this day stands out as a marvellous anach-

• I

il
II

gap

;iMm

I'*

1 ; 6i 1

n«fc.

I ?2

y///:- JiAST/iRNMOar RIDGE

mill

sm, an effort, grotesque enoiiah, 1

America in the eigliteenth cen

'ut sine

wliat an

tiiry the feudal
easy matter it would be for ;dl A
of the

■ere and persevering;, to transplant int..
\^m of the fourteenth. Had he succeeded,

mcrica to

,, , , . '^'•'T ''lis way for a livintj studv

oi one of the most nUeresting phases of Unropoan civilization. Three times in three
successive year.s did the enthusiastic E.mont sul.mit his plans and ur,e them upon the
proper authont.es .vith wonderful learning and eloquence, and with prophecies of suc-
cess that might wen .indie .he enthusiasm of even a monarch of the hou.se of
Hanover. He was to he himself Lord Pannnount of the Island. Under him in
regular gradation would be lords of Hundreds, lords of Manors, and Freeholders
Counties, baronies, capitals, towns, villages were all to be carefully mapped out'
There was to be a great central castle, and n,inor castles or blockhouses in tlL centre

of every block of eight square miles. In case of dmm.r .1,1 < ■ , ■

, ,, ^ . , ''^" '" "'"Iger, the alarm would be triven

by e r,„, 0, cannon from cas.l,, =„ ca«l,., „ .i,,,,., .,,icl, ....IcI .™„Je ev.ry n,,,",,

on the Ishnd ,o be nnder nrm, in .-, ,„.,,,,.,. „, ,„ ,,„„ „,,„^„ ^,, J

:"7; ''T1' :'l"""' '-""' '■^■^ ■■■ '""■ ""■ "-"^ •" '--'--^ ^^^^ '"■- ■■•

g-..n, of a hnnclrcd ll,„,„an.l acr„, wl.ij,. I,„„,;v„,, |,o „,„„|a „„, „„ ,, ^.^^ „.,,

ius feudal system or nothing. Surelv I .n I l.'n.n«.,f i

, , , " "-'^ ^"' ' ''-yiO'it deserves to be remembered here

and elsewhere.

And now the British Government took a step in respect to the island of St
John, which proved a fruitful source of trouM,. f,.r nearly a hundred vears A " hnd

q.>est.n" was created which perplexed polit m ...omists. peasants! and' proprietors.

The Island was divided into si.xty-seven "lots," or sections. All these, except three
were disposed of by lot in one day. The I.|;,„d was then annexed to Nova Scotia"
The persons to whom the grants w.re made had claims more or less real and tangible'
upon the British Government. They receive., .heir -Mots" on condition of .settling
one Luropean P.-otestant for each two hundred acres. ,f no such settlement were
made with,,, ten years the land would lapse to ,he Crown. They were also to pay
ce-.n qu,t reus, by no means one,-ous. „, , ;„S the proprietors, who nearly^^i

i he,r prayers were granted, and a new Provim.e was set up uith its Governo^egislative
Counc,U.nd C eneral Assembly. The population at that date consisted of b,;a hun-
cd aud hf y bundles. Thirty years afterward, when an accurate census of the colony
-s taken, the number was found to be 4.37. Walter Patterson, one of the p,-oprietor^
-^ apponufd 1 ,eute,iant.Governor. The provision made for this representltive ol
Majesty was mode, enough to please the sternest of economists. When he arrived in
.770 It was estimated that the quit .ents to be p.ud by the proprietors would yield
^1.4.0. Of this amount Governo- Patterson was to receive /,-5oo : his Secretarv a,a
Kegistrar, ^150; the Chief Justice, ^: ' ' "

England clergyman, ^"100. Th

ioo; the Attorney. General, ^100; the Church of

ese officers might, p.Tliaps. have lived sumptuousl

!y upon

OF THE CONTIAENT

«.W

transplant into
id he succeeded,
■ a living study
times in three
them upon the
iphecies of suc-
the house of
Under him in
^ Freeholders,
mapped out.
^ in the centre
I'ould be given
Ijle every m;'.ii
last the (Jov-
offered him a
pt. Give iiini
lembered here

Island of St.
rs. A "land
id proprietors.

except tliree.

Nova Scotia,

and tangible
'n of settling
tlement were

also to pay
lo nearly all

government,
r, Legislative
f but a hun-
of tile colony
2 proprietors,
:;sentative of
he arrived in

would yield
ecretary and
e Churcn of
uously upon

their salaries if those salaries had been paid ; but the proprietors forgot all about
quit rents, as well as about their other obligations, and Governor. Chief Justice, and

parson, all alike, had to feel
the sharp pinch of wa.it, and
to seek relief in ways th.it
would hardly meet the ap-
probation of modern moral-
ists. The British Govern-
ment granted /,';,, "Oo for a
public building ;it Charlotto-

LOBSTIiR CANNING.

town. This Slim

the Governor lai(

hands ujjon in

order to relic-ve

present distre.ss.

The Goxcrnment

had enjoined upon

Governor Patter-
son to " take es-
pecial care that
Goil Almiglu\-

should b.. devoutly and duly served throughou, the colony," and they U.ft him .n st.-.l
a l.vmg out of a public grant for a public building Patterson made a clean breast
..f a, .showed the necessitous circumstances in which he was placed, suggested a plan
for collecting a revenue and ref.mding the ./:;„oco. and escaped censure. In ^^r i
constitution modelled upon that of Great Hritain was granted to the colony \n
>776 two war vessels fron, the United States nuule a descent upon Charlottetown and
earned away the leading men and maiu' valuables. Washington rebuked the officious
pnvateer.. and sent back the captives with all their property to (1,arlotteto. n -a
graceful act of courtesy never forgotten in Prince Etlward Island,

And now began the land troubles of the Island in sa.l earnest. No ouit rents
were ,,a.d, and scarcely an effort was made to bring new settlers by the absentee pro-
pnetors. I he Legislature passed laws authorizing the sale of the forfeited lands

n
.1

-I

(•■

'34

7y//f EASTERNMOST RIDGE

Governor Patterson devised this policy and bought large tracts thus sold. But thi
Home Government, pressed by the proprietors, disallowed the Acts, and even ordered
an Act to be repealed 'vhich had been several years on tlic statute books, and under
which a large area had been purchased. Due reparation was to be made to the pur-
chasers. The repealing Act was drawn up in London and sent out to Governor Pat-
terson to i)c subniitt.d to the Legislature. I'-oolishly enough he withheld tiie Act, and
induced the Legislature to pass another Act dealing still more radically with the land
ciuestion. 'J'lus Act wa. disallowed. lie himself was recalled, and the Attorne>-
(HMUial dismissed. Poor Patterson did not like to have his land speculations thus
sununarily marred. Governor Fanning, of Nova .Scotia, commissioned to relieve him.
arrived at Charlottetown in November ; but Patterson refused to give up his office,
declared that he did not want, .uid could not accept, "leave of absence," and actually
k<-'pt possession till ne.xt spring, when peremptory orders came from England informing
Patterson that 'His ALajesty has no farther occasion for your services as Governor of
St. John." The poor fellow had spent sixteen years on the Island, and had done his
dut>- falrl.N- well. He went to England, hoping to be restored to the Governorship,
l>ut was disappointed, of course.

Mis extensive i)roperty was sold under the hard laws which he himself had devised,
and he died i)()or, disappointed and heart-broken.

GoNcrnors .,nd governments came and went; generations were born and buried, but
the j.r.iprietors continued as a whole to be utterly oblivious of their obligations, and
the len.uits continued to agitate. Assemblies complained, petitioned, memorialized,
remonstrated, threatens], prayed, begged, swore, but all to little or no purpose. The
propri.tors had the ear of the Home (Government, and thwarted every measure ema-
nating froir the tenantry and their friends. But as population increased, and as popu-
lar influences made themselves felt in the Government of England, the power of the
proprietors became less and less irresistible, and the Government became more and
more amenable to reason. Some of the proprietors sold their land outright. Some
spent mone\ in encouraging immigration from the Scottish Highlands. A majority,
however, clung tenaciously to what they possessed, exacting all they could, and paying
out as little as possible. In ,S6o, at the suggestion of the proprietors, a Commission
was appointed, which consisted of three m.Mubers, Hon. Joseph Howe representing the
trn.mtry, Colonel Gra\- representing tiie British Government, and Hon. J. W. Rkchie
representing tlu- proprietors, 'I'he Commissioners h.ul power "to enter into ,dl the
inquiries that ma\- be necessary, and to decide upon the different questions which may
be brought before them." The Duke of Newcastle, then Colonial Secretary, desired
to be assured that the tenants would "accept as binding the decision of th. Commis-
sioners, or a majority of them," The Commissioners did their work with signal ability.
They recommended that the Imperial Government .should guarantee a loan of

)ne

hui

5oId. But tin

even ordered

dIvs, and under

le to tlu! pur-

Govcrnor I'at-

1 tile Act, and

willi the land

the Attorne}'

nidations thus

relieve him.
lip his oHicc,

and actually

land informinj^

> Governor of

liad done his

Governorship,

If had devised,

nd huried, but
)li<i;ations, and

memorialized,
urpose. Th<-
measure ema-

and as popu-
power of tile
lie more and
right. Som(!
A majority,
.1, and ])ayin^

1 Commission
ireseniin"- tin-

itclii(

into all th(!
IS which may
etary, desired
ihj Comiiiis-
signal ability.

of one hun-

OF THE CONTINENT

135

dred thousand pounds, so as to enable the Island Government to buy out on favour-
able terms all the proprietors, and to sell the land to tenants and other settlers.
Three conclusions forced thems(>lves upon the Commissioners: that tiie original grants
ivere improvident and ought never to have been made ; that all the grant:, were liable

UlU(;iN(i .mu.-;,i;l-.mud,

to forfeiture for breach of the conditions with respect to settlement, and might justly
have been escheated ; and ih.it all th<' grants might have been practically annulled by
the enforcement of .piit rents, and tlie lands seiz.'d and sold by the Crown without the
slightest impeachment of its honour. l5ut tne sovereign having repeatedly conlirmed
the original grants, it was impossibl.^ to treat the grantees otherwise than as the lawful
possessors of the soil. L.mdlords wert; to be compelled to sell ;in\- lands possessed by
them over fifteen thousand acres, and tiie terms of sale were minulelv detined. All
arr.Nirs of rent beyond three )ears preceding May i wt.e to be wiped out.
The decisions and recomme

tions of the Commission were unanimous, and

reai
the

lily
pro

were

accepted by the Legislatiu-e of the Island, and by the tenantry interested; 1
prietors refused to be bound by them, and sheltered themselves behind

nit

ingenious

.'I
)*

«r

!¥

:3ii \

lit

» i ,. 'Iff!;

' ^ ■ %'

I *»'l

»!iii

^iiilii

'36

yy//:" EASTERNMOST RIDGE

tc-chnical ol,j,.c.tio,m, TIh- I.npcrial Government would not entertain the proposal to

,t,n.arantc.e a loan, Tlir (|M.stion continued unsettled

until the union of the Island with Canada, when a

sum of $Soi3,oo9 wi.s plaa.d at the -crvice of the

Island Govemmwil for the lu.rpose of finally di.

posing of th.. dilluuiiy. There is now no •'land

question" in th.. Province exc-'pt that of cultivating

the land to ihti yi-catest advantage.

The i,rol.j..nt of government is sometimes as
perplexin.^r ;„ „„,,|| , „„„„„„ii,Y., ^^^ ;,^ ^j^^ ^^^^^^^

Prince lulward InLmd had a succession of very com-
petent LieiitunaiU-Go^crnors. Hut more than one en-

te-ed upon his duties with ideas of high
prerogative worthy of Charles I. Gov-
ernor Smith, who "reigneil" from 1813 till
1824, interfered with the courts of justice ;
constituted an illegal court of escheat; re-
fused to receive an address from the As-

'"^^->-' "^^ receive an address from the As-
sembly, though he hnd appointed an hour for its reception : ordered the Assembly to

he proposal to

leas of high
"s I. Gov-
om 1813 •'"
s of justice ;
escheat ; rt-
rom the As-
I'Xssenibly to

OF THE CONTINENT ,37

adjourn from Dec. ,5 to Jan. 5: .ent his son-in-law to threaten tho Honse with imm. -
d.ate d.ssolution-the said son-in-Iau- shaking his fist at Mr. Speak-.r : prorogued th-
Assembly long before it had completed its business, because the Assembly had impris-
oned the son-in-law for breaking the windows of Parliament House; appointed another
son-.n-law to the Legislative Council, though he was only town-major of Charlottetown ■
appomted another man to the Council who had been dismissed from a clerkship in
a shop and who took to retailing spirits. A petition to the King for the (iov-
ernor's removal was a matter of course; but the Governc.- was ecjual to the occasion.
He charged the petitioners with gross libel and contempt of the Court of Chancerv
and on the complaint of his son-in-law summoned them before himself as judge - The
comm.ttee in charge of the petition .as ordered into the custody of the sergeant-at-
arms. The:r leading man, however, made his escape to Nova Scotia with the petition
proceeded to England, told the true tale of misgovernment in the colony, and ob-
tamed .mmediate redress, Governor Smith being promptly recalled. Smith had the
l.rmest conviction that parliamentary government was a nuisance to be abated From
.S.4 to 18.7 no Assembly was summoned. The House which met in ,8.8 prove.l
refractory and was not called again till ,8.0. Governor Smith hated Assemblies
and had more joy in fighting them than in attempting to carry out th^ir wishes

It was at Charlottetown, Jn ,864. that the project of a confederation of the British
North American Provinces took shape. The leading public men of Quebec and
Ontar.o [at that time Lower and Upper Canada] met at Charlottetown, and joined
there a Conference of the Maritime Provinces discussing Maritime Union. The larger
project easily eclipsed the lesser, and the larger Provinces united on July ,. ,86;
Pnnce Edward Island once and again refused to come into the union; but on the ,st
o' July, 1873. she, too, cast in her lot with the other Provinces

Cobbett w.-ote of Prince Edward Island as ^'a rascally heap of .sand, rock, and
swamp, m the horrible Gulf of St. Lawrence." -a lump of worthlessne.ss that bears
nothing but potatoes." Cobbet: was not the first writer nor the last that ignorantlv
.nahgned our fair inheritance. Each of the Provinces in its turn has had the fin.e'r
of scorn pointed at it, and ti,e tongue of detraction wagged against it; but each an.l
all must continue to prosper while a genial sun smiles on a fertile soil tilled by the
liands of freemen. ^

^ Prince Edward Island was among the earliest of the colonies to establish a svstem
o. pubhc education, which has been carried on with increasing efficiencv ; and th.
result is that the little Province has sent forth into the world more than it.^ p.-oportion
of men of mark and learning The people are sober, religious, and industrious. Very
large crop., of oats and potatoes are raised for export, as well as for home use. Of
late years the fertility of the soil has been largely increa.sed by the application of

niussel-mud. ra.sed f.om vast deposits of decomposed shell fish found in -blue inlets

311.

.ifTf*

I B'7'*1*lil

1411 i:

'3«

11,. BK^
Hi .nut

Mr;:'

n/H liASTJiRNA/OS/ KllUih:

ana their crystal creeks" close by the shore. The " ,n,ul " in raised through the ic in
the leisure months of winter, and carried in sleds in ,1,,. fields, when scarcely any
other k.nd of fann work can be attended to. The pennanent industry of the Island
..s agnculture; but ship-buildino- has been prnseaa.,! will, suecess. X„ b.-tter fishin,^^
grounds are to be found in America than the northern . n„s( ; and the sunn,,,, hori.on
•H dotted with the sails of fishing craft. The people nf the Island have not eno-a.-.d
.n fishing to the extent that one would expect In.t they are turning their attent^.^to
th,s mdustry with increasing success. American lishh,,^ ..aft can at times be counted
in- the scor. i,^ the blue distance. Once in twenty yea,, o. so n,lghtv storms sweep
the C.ulf Of St. Lawrence and carry terrible destruaio.i to ,l,e (i.hing vess<.ls near the

eoilNt 'i'hc most iiicuioi-al)l(; of
tlU'MO Htorms was that of October
i'X Itlld 4th, 1853, when 72 Amei-i-
t'lin vessels wei-e flung ashore on
l;ll'! north coast of the Island. A
Hlinilai' storm bunt suddenly upu..
llle coast in August. 1.S73, and was
ttlinosl ecpially destructive.

Cliarlottetown is b-autifully situ-
(Hed on tin; north side of Hills-
'"H'ough River. The harbour is
Hide whate\(i- wind ma)- blow; and
tile towr. slopes gently upwai-d as
we, proceed inland. Its streets are
wide, M(\ at some seasons ex-
tremely busy. It has handsome
cluil'ches, two or thi-ee colleges, a
convent and many delightfully situ-
ated private dwellings. The sub-
tll'lm arc chai-ming with gai'dens
fUUl Jiroves of evei-gi-eens, with
shady avenues opening out upon
<t*i'lilt! fields, green or golden in
tlieir time, The city has a popu-
llltioM of o\(.|- 8.000, and is steadily
^row,ng It was founded in .768. but the beauty and .,uiet of th. harbour had
attracted attention many years befo.e this period, A nerious disadvantage to the
island cap.tai is that fo,- four months in the year - pe,.hap« for five u,o,„hs' it is ice-
bound. It is the railway centre of the Province, a„U i„ ihe early sununer and late

ACADIAN r.IUL.

OF Tim CON TINE NT

nugli the ico in
n scarcely any
of the Ishind
I) Ix^tter fishing
summer horizon
•(' noi tMiyagcd
'ir attention to
les be counted
storms sweep
esscls near tlie
ini-nioraijie of
lat of Octoljer
hen 72 Anieri-
ing asiiore on
he Island. A
suddenly upon
1S73, and was
.K.tive.

'tautifully situ-
side of Hills-
le harbour is
ia>- l)lo\v ; and
tl)- upward as
Its streets are
seasons e.\-
las handsome
ee coUeq-es, a
lightfully situ-
s. The sui)-
with gardens
rgreens. with
ng out upon
or golden in
' has a popu-
nd is steadily
harbour had
itage to the
ths~ it is ice-
iier and late

'39

autumn is the scene

of great commercial activity. There are .lelightf.d drives and

walks in tin; vicin.'ty.

I*"roni Charlotletown to
Georg<'town the country is e.\-
ceptionally fertile and largely
under cultivation. I'hc mad
for some distance follows tin;
Hillsborough River, a long
sinuous arm of the sea. It
passes through villages, each
resembling the other, and all
presenting the ideal of pastor-
al peace and seclusion. The
head of the; river is within
a Jiiile and a half of Traca-
die lIari)our, on the north
side of the Island. It was
at this old jiortage that the
I'l' nch fiiiall)- surrendered the
island lo the lirilish.

Georgetown is beautifully
situateil amitl the slopes of
velvet fields on a peninsula
between the Cardigan and
Brudenelle rivers. The har-
bour is the most securt' on
the Island, and is the last to
succumb to the touch of the
ice-king. Steamers ply be-
tween this port and Pictou
and the Magdalen. Island.s.

•Summerside is usually the
point at which toin-ists in the
summer time touch the Isl-
:i'itl- It is next to Char-
lotletown in wealth and iio-

pulat
harbc

ion.

!'
An islet off the

our IS the site of the

Island Park Hotel,

de-

;3ii

■*«-,

I rjjp

Iff"'

i f.

lilt:!

140

VW/i EASTERNMOST RIDGE

li-,rlitful spot with many attractions for tlie traveller. Summerside is the headquarters
of the trade in Bedeqiie ojsters.

There is no more salubrious summer resort in all America than Prince Edward
Island. The sea-bathinj^r is delightful ; for thu waves come in curvinjr, laughing, darn-
ing over long reaches of shining sands warmed by the summer sun. The sea-breeze is
never far away; and if you go to tlic northern coast you may enjoy it in its coolest per-
fection when the waves arc; edged witli angry foam, "white as the bitter lip of hate."
The scenery is ne\er grand e.xcept wlien great gales beat upon the exposed coast,
hurling the waters of the Gulf upon the trembling land ; but though not grand or sub-
lime, it is ever lovely, ever suggestive of comfort, peace, and plenty ; a smiling heaven
and a happy people. In the deiJths of winter there is isolation ; but even then there
are compensations. What more e.xhilarating than sports on the ringing ice of those
rivers and iiarbours And the sleighing never fails. The silver thaw is seen here in
a degree of perfection never, perhajis, attained elsewhere. Often, in one night, the grim
<iull forests are transferred into groves of crystal, each branch and twig bending grace-
fully under its brilliant burden. Ice half an inch thick forms on the boughs. The
sun shines upon the scene and it becomes indescribably brilliant. The coasts of P. H.
Island are almost entirely free from the fog which is so troublesome on the Atlantic
coast of Nova Scotia and Cape P.reton. Sometimes it hangs on the far off horizon
eastward, as if longing for orders, usually refused, to invade these pleasant shores.

We have said that Prince Edward Island is isolated: but there is coming and
going in the very heart of winter. The telegraph flashes its daily messages under
the waters of the Strait and the ice-boat carries passengers and mails from shore
to shore. It is said that the Indian name for the Island is (or was) EpayguU,
" Anchored on the Wave." The point of crossing by ice-boat is from Cape Traverse
in P. E. 1., to Cape Tormentine in New Brunswick, where the distance is about nine
miles. The standard ice-boat is 18 feet long, 5 feet wide, and 2 feet 2 inches deep.
Its frame is oaken; it is planked with cedar, and the planks are covered with tin. It
has a double keel which serves for runners, and four leather straps are attached to
each side. The crews are hardy, powerful, and courageous men, equally ready to pull
or row, or swim if need should arise. There is often open water half the distance,
and this is regarded as the easiest crossing. The passage usually occupies three and
a half hours. Occasionally when tiie ice is bad and the tide strong in the wrong di-
rection the struggle continues for nine or ten hours. Only once in thirty years has a
serious accident occurred. In 1855 a violent snow-storm swept down suddenly on the
boat. The men lost their way. After battling with the fury of the elements from
Saturday till Tuesday, they finally landed about forty miles out of their course, one
of the passengers having meanwhile perished.

We advise our readers to visit this garden of the Sea Provinces in summers

; headquarters

'rince Edwanl
aiighingi dam -
L' sea-breczc is
its coolest ptr-
r lip of hate,
exposed coast,
grand or siih-
miling heaven
en then there
ice of those
seen here in
ight, the grim
lending grace-

)Ollghs. Tile

>asts of P. ii.

the Atlaniii
r off horizon
It shores.

coming ami
issages II niter
s from shore
is) Hpayguit,
ape Traverse
is about nine

inches deep,
with tin. It

attached to
ready to pull
the distance,
es three ami
he wrong di-
1 years has a
denly on tlie
ements from
■ coursCi one

mmer.x

C •• 7///;' COXT/X/-XT

141

THE LOWEFl^ ST. LAWF^ENCE,

AND THE SAGUENAY.

IIOMF. Ol- THE WTCIIKK I'l.ANT,

T^lll'. St. l.awrence is tiie
type, as it is tiie eiuhotli-
ment, of Canadian rivers. I'lij),
free, and impetuous fnini soiu'ce
to outlet; clear and swift like its countless tributaries; broatl and mighty in volume,
uke the lakes that store its strength; evt'r changing in aspect, from mighty rapid
and stupendous fall, to rippling reaches and broad depths, where it gathers force for
another rush down its steep incline. Not a mere water-course, but a stream of the
hills and woods, full of sparkle and vigour, as if draining half a continent wer« a
labour to be rejoiced in. Throughout the varying scenes of its long course, its beauty
and majesty are always striking, but nowhere more so than in its estuary. Other

It
I

'42

'////£ JLISTHRXA/OS/' NIlHiH

-rcat riviTs swm to .Ircail llu-ir (•ml: they waiul.r slii^jyislily tlirnuv.!, vast marshes,
nlxlividc into many outlets, build iip oriat hais lo uaid oil the sea, suddenly giv,.
up tlu; contest, spread out their waters, and arc lo-^i in llir ocean. \\m- •■C.reat Rivir
of Canada" keeps its individuality to th(! closr. ,uid rolls on lill the hanks vvhieh ((.n-
Ime its L,r|-and Hood are those which limit the ocan ilself. .\t ihc Isle of Orleans,
il seems to prepare l.oldly for its end, lor it suddenly widens, lo l,c measured hy
lea,i,Mies instead of l.y miles across; yet there an- fidly two hundred miles to uo before
its shores fade away on opposiK- horizons, ami closr on tl\ree hundred more before ii
reaches the o[)en sea.

The hills, amon.n which it was born, its kinsfolk and ai(|uainl.uue that shari w-.
name, come to ^r,iard it a,t,rain after two thousami miles of separation. I'rom Cap
Tourmente to far down the Labrador coast the Laurentians are piled ..|) in a sea of
rollini,^ contours, like hu.nc waves turned to rock just when their crests were breakim^.
On the south the mountains keep longer aloof, but broken fool-hills diversify the
undulatin-- sloiie that sweeps up, from the belt of rich lowland alonj; the shore, to
where the distant hills of Maine meet the sky. Near KamoiuMska. precipitous craj^s
dot the broad plain. At Hie, immense spurs jut out to the river-baids. Thence, towards
the sea. the face of the coinitry is e\er more and more broken and scarred ; the Gaspe
range presses inwards, and, with the tall peaks of the .Sliickshaws towering above all,
lonely giants jealous of their blue-capped rivals on the far hori/on, bounds the St.
Lawrence from Caj) Chat to Gaspe, with great cliffs, stern, overhanging, .sombre, meet
banks for a river eighty miles broad. There are all the charms of river and sea, oi
mountain and forest, of wilderness and cultivated plain, about the region.

Turn to the north. .\ rampart of rock, guartling the secrets of the wild land
beyond, towers to the sky; great chasms and gorges break il, but to reveal still
mightier walls of mountain, at last, till th(^ eye is fain to rest upon lleecy shimmerings
of cloud Heating above hills that seem far off as the sky itself. Rock and forest
everywhere; dark and sombre when the .storm clouds gather, and the rain-squalls howl
down the passes, blotting out of sight all but the white-capped waves; many-hued antl
soft-shadowed as the morning light plays on pine and spruce top, on waving birch ami
quivering poplar, on dark cedar and brilliant maple; clear-cut and bright in the strong
light of a Canadian -mid-day ; rich in purple and green, crimson and gold, russet and
grey, orange and black, as the sun goes down ; vague, soft and silvery in the moon-
light ; mysterious and overwhelming when the moon has sunk behind the hills. A land
of torrents and earthquakes, where the foimdations of the continent were upheaved,
and scarcely now have settled firm. Yet. wherever th<' mouth of a river wedges the
hills apart, or the wearing current and chafing ice-Hoes have left a foothold at the
base of the heights or have cut an escarpmcMit in their sides, little hamlets cluster and
the .symbol of the Christian faith is seen.

OF THE CONTINENT

'43

vast marslu^s,
suddenly j^i'c
: "t'ircat Ri\ r
iiks vvhicli ((in-
ilc of Orlcaii^^,
nu'asiiRMl li\'
■s to l;<) before
more before it

tliat shart ii-,
1. I'rom Ca|>
i.|) in a st!a of
were l/reakin^;.
; diversify tlie

the sliore, to
■cipitous craj;s
lience, towards
■d ; tlie Gaspci
in^r above all,
)unds tlu; St.

sonil)re, meet
r and st^a, oi
11.

the wild land
:(j reveal still
\ shimmorinj^s
ck and forc^si
n-sc]iialls howl
lany-hued anil
'ing birch and

in the strong
tl, russet and
in the moon-
hills. A land
•re upheaved,
- wedges the
ithold at the
:s cluster and

iws. ikit everywhere a background of

On the south shore Nature is less aggre.ssive, and yields room for the beauties of
pastoral landscape. b'or tlie most part there is a continuoijs line of settlement, farms
and houses, villages and church-spires, here an<l tlu're a goodly town, streams and
bridges, convents and windmills, irites ;ind meado\
the hills and llu' woods.

Hunilreds of streams, some of them great rivers, coming from far regions, known
only to the wild-fowl and tlic Indian, swell the volume of the Lower .St. Lawrence.
Those on the sou:!) coast winti turbid lloods through sinuous curves in the rich loam ;
those on the north dash round sharp angles, hurrying their crystal waters over cascades
and rapiils, down gravelly Ix.ls and through Avx-y rock-bound pools, where the salmon
and the sea-trout rest on their loit.M-ing away to the distant shallows. Up some of these
streams even the fish cannot climb far, and the i-oyaocitr in his bark-canoe must make
many a i)ortage over the crags and through the trees, if he would scale these watery
ladders to the l,d)yriiuh of lakes, whence he may threail his way lar west beyond
Lake Superior, north to Hudson's Hay, or east to une.siilored wilds.

Islanils of all sizc-s and form.s.-- some green and fertile like the Isle of Orleans,
beautiful Lsle au.\ Couches, and oastoral Isle Verte,— some long, rocky battures with
jagg(;d reefs, round which current and tide contend in ugly swirls of foam,— others, tall
pillars of rock, fragments from the prinueval strife of elements, break the broad blue
e.xjianse, and interpose an ever-changing foreground. Bold headlands alternate with
long, low-lying po'.us, to mark the extremities of the sweei>ing bays, within which are
sea-weed covereil rocks, white sand beaches, and broad llats, the homes of innumerabh'
birds. Colonies of ravens inhabit the wooded heights that space off the little ports
where the rivers widen as they meet the tide, and where the brown-sailed li.shing-boats
find shelter. Long piers run far out to the cb.annel ; light-houses, baudetl with black
and white, dot the cajies, and mark the shoals in the track of the great ocean steam-
ers that here seem but small black nuclei of smoky comet.s. Huge red buoys define
the channels ; their bells clang out the danger signal, and fog-horns bellow deep warn-
ing notes as the increasing swell tells of the coming gale. Great ships, eager to make
an olting, and to leave grim Anticosti's wreck-strewn coast safe behind, spread clouds
of canvas ; others, with sails aback, lie quietly awaiting the swift pilot-boats that biat
about like restless sea-swallows gathering a living from the waves. The .semaphores
on the hillocks swing their great arms to signal passing vessels, and telegraph their
news from station to station, so that the distant Bird Rocks and the lonely Magdalens
share the world's tidings with the cities of the west.

The cool, pure air of the mountains, sweet with the aroma of the forests, mimdes
with salt breezes from the sea. The dash of th

e waves, as the brisk

their crests, is the complement of the crisp rustle of the leaves
swash of the tide that of the sou^ih of th

squal

rls

ia. »

e long, moaning
e wind through the pine groves. There is

F'*-*

'.iMmiummim

•k-.

Jttll

e:;;

Kli;

••)ir

mf.

144

////■ /wis//:A.\'.i/os7- kiih;!-:

J:3-

CAP TOURMrNTK.

a min^rlcd rcstl'iilntss ami viL^our in tin- aiiiiiis|ilnrc, a tninMnalion of the s(;a and the-
woods, of ihi- rivers and llic liilK, to drive a\va\- all rare and weariness.

Nor i-, the interest of ihe Lower Si, Lawrence that of scenttry alone; tradition,
history, le.^end and folk-lore coniri^nle iheir fidl share. Lon^; Indore Carti<'r first
visite'd the three ^reat realms of iloiii.;uedo, .Sa^iienay, ami Canada, Indian nation
fought many a war of e.xlermination for the possi'ssion of the hnnting-grounds and
fisheries. Al,:^i)n(iuin and Soiiriquois, Micniae, Malecite, Abenaciui, Montagnais and
Iroquois, hav(! all left their mark. !'" ranee- and lui^land have; lent associa.ions to
every point on the long coast-line. LIow many trageiiies, what thriliinj,^ sri nes, and
what various people this river has sei-n since cannon lirsl woke the Laurontian's
thunderous echoes with a ro\al ^,ahite to " Donnacona .X^rouhanna ou Seigneur de
Canada" hoarding Carti(?r's ships off the islanil of Orleans, close to the very point
where, not long ago, the jieople of Stadacona waved their God-speed to an
English Princess. livery isl.ind. cape and bay has a story of shipwreck, miracle, or
wraith. The people of th<! ri\<;r and gulf are a curious compound of voyagi-ur, farmer,
and fisherman. They are full of energy and character, bold and hardv', simple-minded,
honest and hosjjitable, superstitious, .is all fishermen are, and abounding in wonderful
irrronds but pious nufl brave withal. Thev jireserve manv old ideas .ind habits, for
down here the earliest settlements in I'Vench Canada are side i)y side with the latest.

It is not surprising that the Lower St. Lawrence, or rather those parts of

or rill': contim-nt

1-15

ic soa aiul tlic

oik; ; tradition,
: CaitiiT first

luiiaii nation
y-groiinds and
ontagnais and
issociaiions to
ly sillies, and
■ l.aurentian's
Seigneur de
lie very point
-speed to an
ck, miracle, or
yagtut\ farmer,
sim|)le-minded,
r in wonderful
\\m\ habits, for

ith the latest,
lose parts of

if that geiierally pass for the wiioic, of wliidi they form in reality but a small
l.ortion, h.is lon.i; been a favourite holiday around for Cinadiaiw of iIk^ Upper
I'roviiiccs, .m.l ilia> it has of lat<' yrars bc.i^uii lo attraet man) stranj,'ers. 'I'liere anr
waterinj;-plaies on both shores, each h.ivinL; its own eh.ir.uteiisiic.

Kamour.iska, the oldest ol .ill, where once upon a time the wittiest and most
(harminj,^ of j-reiuh society was to be b.und. is now dull, (piiet, .md given to boating.
Riviere ilii l.onp, now, alas, turne<l into prosaic but siunilic.mt I'raserville.— for the
iii'W nanK; perpetuates the poetic revenge that spoiled of their very nationality the
whilom spoilers of this fair land,- has comfortable' houses and good society, is decidedly
proper, respectable, and a little slow. Cacouna has its cpiiei cott.iges, but also the
most pretentious hotel, and too much of th(! dancing and dressing that char.e.icrize
American watering-places. |{,,il, Riviire du l.onp and Cicouna have beautiful views
of the i)anorama of the opposite shore, here just at the right distance for the most
magnificent of sunset effects. Rimouski is a cathedral town, most affected by
I'lench vis tors. Itic is pictures(|ue and secluded, and but little visited. Metis is the
ivsort of th.' scientist, the blue-stocking, and the newly-married. Matane, noted for
its good cheer and sea-trout fishing. All the foregoing .ire ,.ii the south shore, and
easily reached by rail or by steamer; i)ui attractive as they are, they have not ihe same

*»

146

THE EASTHRNMOSI' RIDGE

cliarin for most jjcoplc as tlif places at-rosH the river, though, as the temperature of
the water is notably warmer, owing to its shallowilcsH and the great extent of beach
uncovered at low tide, they are preferred for bathing. This, iiowever, is the \veak
point of all the fre(iuented watering-places on tile St. Lawrence. To one accustomed
to the open sea the water is not salt enough, there is no surf, nor are there liie
thousand and one treasures of the sea-shore,

Four times a week in the summer monilis steamers freighted with holiday-makers
and tourists leave Quebec for Tadoussac and C'hieoulimi, touching at the various
places between these points. To look at ihi' piles of baggage and furniture, tile
hosts of children and servants, the houselioM gods, the dogs, cats and birds, one
might tiiink the Canadians were emigrating ni masse, like the scioncnrs and their fami-
lies after the cession of the country to JMiglan.l, Hut these travellers have a happier
destinv than had those who sailed in tlu' . I ii,i;iis/i\ shipwrecked on Cape Breton in
November, 1762. Murray Bay and its adjoining villageH are the resort of those who
want grand sc<Miery, and a ([uiet coimlr)- life with a si)ice of gaiety. Many families
have their own pretty country-houses, but a lavourilc plan is to take a habitant's cot-
tage just as it stands, and to play at " roughing it " with all the luxuries you care to
add to the rag-matted tloors and primitive furniture. I'hose who want more excite-
ment find it at the hotels, where in the evening there is always a dance, a concert, or
private theatricals, to wind up a day s|)enl in bathing, picnicing, boating, driving,
trout-fishing, tennis, bowls, billiards, and ,1 ^u/v\\ oihi'r amusements. It is a merry
life and a healthy onc! ; you liv(! as you please, and do as you please, and nobody says
you nay. 'I'adoussac is much the sanu', onl>, if one may be allowed the expression, a
little more so, perhaps because it is the favourite of .Vmericans. On the north shore
nobody but the salmon-fisher goes beyond TadoiissiU' ; but on the south shore the
tendency is always farther and farther down evi'ry Near, so that Rimouski, I5ic, Metis,
and Matane have successively been reached, and before long, when tlie l)eauties of the
coast between Ste. .\nne des Monts and ('ape (laspe are fully known, the artist and
his ally, the fisherman, will no longer revel in solitary and undisturbed enjoyment of
its magnificent scenerx.

However, our way lies not among, though perf(UTe to some extent with, the tour-
ists. FicTi'Kicson-; Canada is not a guidebook ; its random sketches attempt to show
but a few scattertnl gems from anions ||„. ireasiu'es ready to artist's brush and
writer's pen.

Foremost among these is the coast <hi the north between the isl.md of Orleans
and the mouth of the Saguenay. It is almost as wild tn-day as when the first explor-
ers saw it three centuries and a half ago, or a^j when Boucher, writing, in 1663, his
Histoire Maturclle d

. atiatt

to 1.

ouis

XIV,

sail I o

f it:

Tad

iforntation of Colbert, Minister of Finance
ssac lo Cap Tourmente, .seven leagues from

OF THE CONTINENT

'47

temperature of
Ktent of beach
", is the weak
ine accustonu:(l
are there tlic

holiday-makers
It the various

furniture, tlie
nd birds, one
nd their fanii-
lave a iia[)pier
ape Hreton in

of tiiose wiio
Many families
liabilant's cot-
s you care to

more excite-

a concert, or
iting, driving'.
It is a merry
d nobody sa\s

expression, a
.; north siiore
ith shore the
ki, Hie, Metis,
•auties of tiic
he artist and
('njo)ni(nt (if

vith. liic lotn--
empt to show
's brush and

d of Orleans
V. first explor-
iii 1663, his
r of Finance
leagues from

Quebec, the country is quite uninhabitable, beinir too hiyh and all rock\-, and cpiite
precipitous. I have remarked only one place, that is Bale St. Paul, about half-way and
opposite to Isl(- aux Coudres, which seems very pretty as one passes by, as well as all
the islands to be found between Padoussac and Quebec, whicii are all fit to U-
inhabited."

'I'imes have ciianged since Boucher's day, i)ut th(; north coast has changed liltK^.
The scattered villages serve but to emphasize the savage grandeur of the stern
line of cliffs rising sheer from the water. The settlements have as yet made
little impression upon the countrj' between Bale St. Paul and Cap Tourmente. There
was not even a road over the hills between these points until 1818, and to this day
there is none along the cliffs, except for a few miles about Pc^tite Riviere and Cap
Maillaril. Twenty years after Boucher wrote the passage above quoted, he tells us
that Petite Riviere ai. 1 Bale St. Paul had b(!en founded; the latter, he sa>s, was 'the
first inhabited land to be met with on the north shore as you come from i-"rance ; it
penetrates a league into the land, and is fifteen leagues distant from Quebec, seven
from Cap Tourmente. The roads are \(M-y ditticult and dangerous; there are three
families anil thirt\-one souls; Mass is said there in a domestic chapel."

What those roads were like, and what the missionarx priests who came from La
Bonne Ste. Anne and Petit Cap had to risk to say Mass to the little congregation,
may be judged from the fate of M. I'rancois Tilion, who, in 1679, was caught 1)\ the
tide and drowned, as he made his wa\- along the shore, now wading through mud and
water, now climbing tlu' points of rock. Tradition has it that his body was found at
Petite Riviere by Sister St. Paul, of the Congregation of Notre-Dame, who towed it
behind her canoe up to Ste. .Anne. The .\I)be 'Trudelle, in his interesting monograph
on Bale St. Paul, speaking of the invasion of the parish of Little River by the St.
Lawrence, which every year carries away several feet of the fertile lands on which
formerly lived a large number of rich liabitaiits. says that it i" hard to believe thc're
was a time when a parish existed on a long, rock\ shoal, now visible onh at Idw
tide, and that in 1858 there were still to be seen on it the remains of the okl clergy-
house which, with the old church, the river had carried away.

Boucher exactly describes Bale St. Paul wIkmi he speaks of it as "enfoncee dans
les terres." It is just a great cleft in the rocks, through which a torrent fed by cas-
cades from the surrounding mountains pours an impetuous stream. A lovely valley is
that of the C.ouffre. In the background range upon range of peaks rise above each
other, arid ami precipitous in reality, but toned by distance into the softest blue. The
l)old contours of th(- nearer hills are outlineil by tleep ravines, dark with forest, brist-
ling with cliffs. Down every cleft fails a sparkling brook, now hidilen from sight b\- a
clump of foliage, anon glistening in the sun, as rounding another turn it leaps from its
beil, in haste to ilescend the heights. Soft is the murmur of the many waterfalls, and

I ' i|

»% a 1

148

THE liASTERXMOST RIDGE

sweet the smell of the new-mown hay in the jrreen fields tiiat stretch for miles alonj;
the winding stream. Clusters of houses, groves of trees, and shining church-spires
diversify the scene, it is tu>t alwajs so peaceful. When melting ice and heavy rains
swell these mountain streams, cluUing at the long restraint the mountains have imposed
upon the waters, they fret and tear at the tlanks of the hills, and uncover the
secrets of the pre-historic world. Rocks, tre<.s, and bridges are swept into the turbid
Hood of the C.ouffre, wliich, raging like a demon unchained, destroys everything that
impedes ii> headlong course.

The ba) is Hanked on the east by th<; lofty Cap au.x Corbeau.x, named from

the hoarse croaking of the ravens that inhabit its wood-crown<'d crest an<l inaccessible

shelves. Their cries, carried far out on the river by the coming scpiall, have always

been of ill-omen to the sailors. I'he old habitanls arc more than half inclined to

think this gloomy cape, constantly enshroud<;d by clouds, the abode of

demons. There is a Montagnais legend of a C.iant, Outikou by name,

who was driven by the power of the Cross from l.es Islets Mechins, or

Isles Mcchants, some distance farther down the opposite side of the St.

Laurence, to the far solitudes of Lake Mistassini, where live the Nashka-

jiiouts, "the savages who d(j not pra)' at all," whence, say the Indians,

he in his wrath thunders and shakes the whole north shore. This

legend, and the assertion that
there is an active volcano some-
where on the water-shed be-
tween Hudson's Bay and the

St. Lawrence, correspond curi-
ously with the Itabitani's su-
perstition, and with the frequent
occurrence of earthquakes, of
whidi Baie St. Paul seems to
be the (-('ntre.

Lather JerOme Lalemant's
account of the great earth-
quake of 1663, in the Relation
dcs Jesiiilcs for that jcar, and
the story of the same by Sister
Marie (U- 1' Incarnation, are un-
fortunately too long to be given
here. But they are we!! ke.own and of undoubted authenticity^ agreeing as they do
with so many and diverse contemporary accounts. For six months and a Iialf the
shocks were felt throughout Canada and New England. Along the St. Lawrence,

ART AMI NAIX'KL.

Dr miles alonj^

church-spires

1 lieavy rains

iiavo imposed

uncover the

to the turbid

'erything that

OF THE CONTINENT

140

meteors tilled tlic air, which was dark wilh smoke and cinders. The <rrass withered.
»nd the crops would noi j^row. According to I'.M-Jand. " New lakes were formed, hills

nametl from
d inaccessible

have always
If inclined to
the abode of
kou by name,
s Mechins, or
ide of the St.
;: the Nashka-

the Indians,
shore. This
issertion that
'olcano some-
ater-shed be-
Bay and the
respond curi-
hahitant's su-
I the frequent
"thfiuakes, of
lu! st'eins to

I.alemant's
great carth-
th<! Rilation
at year, and
me by Sister
tion, are un-
[ to be given
; as they do
a half the
Lawrence,

■*<fr

BAU'; ST. I'ALI..

vere lowered, falls w(M-e levelh'd, small streams disappear...], oreat forests were over-
-urned. From Cap Tourmente to Tadoussac the appearan.-e ,,f ih.- sh<,re was grcatl>-
dtered in several localities. \ear Bale St. Paul, an isolated hill, about a quarter of
a league in circumference, descended below the waters, and emerged to form an
island; towards I'ointe au.x Alouettes, a great wood was detached from the soli.!
ground, and slipped .)ver the rocks into th<- river, where for some time the trees
remained upright, raising dieir verdant crests al>o\-e ih,. wat.'r." In June the passen-
gers on a sloop coming from C.aspe, wh.'u they approaciied Tadous.sac, saw tlie water
strangely agitated, and on land a mountain l.:\(!iled wilh the surrounding soil.

In 1638, 165S, 1663, 1727. 1755, 1791, i860, and 1870 there have been many
shocks. In 1 791, it is said the peaks north of Hale St. Paul were in active eruption,
but the authority for this statement is not of the best. One thing, however, is certain:
you will not spend a summer in that neighbourhood without being convinced that there
have been tremendous convulsions, and that there are still shocks to be felt. In 1S60,
a stone house near Les Eboulements was thrown down ; the church at Bale St. Paul
was so damaged that it had to be rebuilt; the shock was severely felt on the
other side of the river ; the church of St. Pascal was badly Injured, and at Riviere
Quelle, the church lost its cross, while every chimney in the parish fell.

^91

.Si

315

♦t

'50

THE EASTERNMOST RIIXiE

V-

On ihti arrival of thc^ I'Liiglish fleet with Wolfe's army, in 1759, the inhabitants ul
Bai«; St. I'aul and Isle anx Coudres foiintl ife hidinp-places for themselves and their
cattle in the faHtiii^tHcs at the upper end o* the vaile)-. When Captain Gorham mad<
th<' raid which (hjstroyed the parishes of the north shore as far down as Murray Bay,
tile men i»f Hail! St, I'aul did not see their village burned without showing fight,
but the odd*) were against them. Some vestiges of the earthworks they had thrown r,>
on tlie HluM'f may yet be traced, and traditions of the conquest are still current. The
registry "I iHii'ial of ()n<' of liie Canadians killeil by Gorham's men states that he was
scalped. The Abbe Irudclit; gives as the or jin of the saying common here, ''fort
loiiniii Irreiiiiii," a story of tiie capture of two Canadians, one of whom was killed by
tin- cruel protc'i'i of lashing him to a plank, and dropping him from the yard-arm into
tiic water; the oiIk r, Grenon, being of such prodigious strength that he could not be
fastened to the plank, was kept prisoner on board Gorham's ship. A sailor having
insulted hini by blowing in his face, Grenon begged to be untied and given his
revenge, (ini'linill, to amuse himself, granted this, and (irenon killed the sailor with
one blow ol llie tlal of his hand, for which e.xploit Gorham gave him his liberty.

Haie St, I'anI has had a hermit, b'ather Gagnon, who had been tun' of the parish,
lull not lu'iny ilble to submit to his bishop, withdrew in i 7H8 to live for sixty years a
lite of solitude, He seems to have been a man of strong will, higli character, and
l)enevolent nature, As all hermits should be, he was an herbalist, and won a great
reputation from the cures wrougiit b\- his simple remedies. He also possttssed another
characterintit of the true hermit, — he lived to the age of ninety-live. There is, too, at
Haie St. Paul a prtrtion of the finger of Saint Anne, a relic whicli makes the church
a iikiii- of tiptuHul devotion.

broni Kai'' Si. I'aul to Murray Ha\ is a road never to \w. forgotten. An Irish
jaunting-car and an Irish carman are the only rivals of a caliche and its habitant driver
for velocity .tnd fun. Such hills! They stand foreshortened before you, looking like-
ladders to heaved, and cpiite as hard to mount. But then you descend them at a
gallop. '\\\\< calhhv was apparently built by the antediluvians, so is tpiite in keeping with
the scenery, and, like all the work of the good old times, is thoroughly fit for its
pur|)ose, The only difficulty is to keep inside it. The energetic pony, good little
beast th.ii he i'l, plots upwards with a will that i)uts to shame the memory of the
misguidcti youth of banner-bearing fame. He plants his feet with vigorous thuds, and
holds on lo llu' 4tones with a grij) that sets one looking to see whether he be not in
reality a survival of lluxleys horses with toes. Regardless alike of endearments and
objurgationM, he lakes the down-hill part nuich after the style of the sailor at M.ajuba
Hill, who only ntade land three times in the descent. If, beguiled by the driver's voluble
tongi.e, you allow your attention to slack, and feet and hands to lose the necessarv
tension, you ri^k flying ov(m- the |)ony's ears like a bullet from a catapult.

inhabitants ol
ves and their
jorham maii(

Murray Ba\ ,
showing figlit.
lad tlirown r,'
current. TIu-
s that he was
1 here, "fort
was killed by
yard-arm into

could not be

sailor having
md jjiven his
lie sailor with
s liberty,
of the parish,
sixty years a
character, and

won a great
tissed another
lere is, too, at
ss the churcii

Ml. An Irisii
'tabitant drivei"
, looking like
id them at a
\ keeping willi
illy fit for its
ly, good little
emory of the
lus thuds, and
he be not in
learments and
or at Majuba
Iriver's volubU'
the necessar\

OF THE CONTINENT '5'

Drive over this road at least once in your life. But, by all means, if you
are strong enough, — and especially if by good fortune you have such a com-
panion as the kindly Abbi, who spends his leisure at the old manor that lies behind
tile historic point of Riviere Ouelle, far away there on the south shore, in learned
studies and charming sketches of his native land, or as his kinsman, the Senator, the
hospitable Seigneur of Les Eboulements,^ — make >our wa\- along t!ie heights on foot,
drink in the vigour of this bracing air, and rejoice to the full in the wondrous beauty
of the scene before you.

Immediately below you is a very chaos of hills heaped up in wild confusion.
Earthquake, volcano, and Hood have left their work unfinished, arrested, as it were, in
a moment. At Les Kboulements the effect as you look up from the beach is savage,
forbidding, glooniv even. This debris of mountains suggests the time when men shall
call upon the rocks to hide them and tlie mountains to cover them, and its savager)'
is intensified by arid, crumb''ng soil and scanty vegetation. It is with a sense
of intense relief at having escaped the pt'rpetual menaci; of th(' impending hills
you reach the lofty plateau beyond the church, whence your ejt' v.anilers over a world
of peaks, stretching l)ack from the shore range after range, and sweeping along the
river to where Cap Touriiiente, full f'lrty miles away, shuts in the horizon, their spurs
silhouetted one against the other in boldest outline. Ear down below you are villages,
mere specks of white in the rich valleys, whose emerald tints are reflected from, the
glassy bays that lie between the buttresses of the mountains. The steamer at the
end of the long pier is only a streak of cloud in the middle distance. The whole
surface of Isle aux Coudres, that " iiioiill bovne terre et gtasse, pleine de beaulx et
crandz arbres' is spread out to \()ur \ie\v, a lovely panorama. Over its clumps of
spruce and cedar, its groves of maple and birch and hazel, you see the south shore
like a soft blu(> clouc'. studded with stars, as the sunbeams glisten from the spires of
its many parishes. To look down on the calm surface of the river is like a vista
through endless space, so clearix mirrored are the deep piles of clouds which the set-,
till'-- sun begins to edge with rose and purple, and to line with gold. Yonder,
between placid Isle aux Coudres and frowning Cap aux Corbe uix, where the water
deepens, and the Gouffre battling witii tiu: tide forms the whirlpool v.'hence it takes
its name, the floating reflections of the sk\ interlace in a maze of slow-revolving
spirals. It is a dangerous spot still for boat or canoe. In (.^narlevoix's time it was
a veritable maelstrom, and many are the legends of its terrors.

There is a special peace in the scene, reminding one of that Se|Hember morning,
in is^S. when, in the words of the Clianson, that livens many an evening in the
habitant's cottage,

"I>e Saint Mdlo, lii-au port ilc Mvr
Trois j^rands nai'ir'-s soiit nrrivfs,"

■ill

'II

11!

rnii liAsj HHNMosi iiU)ui-:

ami ihc (,ra,„u- llcriunu. tlic /',///,• llawni,, .,11.1 ihr /■,»., 7/ . •

, . ' '"'" '"" '■iiicnllou swnni' to iheir

ancliors in ihc l.av l,cliin,l the littlr nnHniiiUorics lliii ,,,, . , ,

the islaiul. Oiir can almosi imagine that the -,ni.,.i .,> I i • ■ .

,, , " "* ^'"" '"'•! '^"1, . inn strains (.1 th.. Mass whith

, , , "" li''-t imic on Canadian soil

and the l<:rvent resnonscs ol lacoui's Carticr m.l I,, . .

.... ' .1.' 1UI.S ^aiti. I an.l In , nim arc I .oriif across tin.- water.

But It IS evening, and il„- soft sounds we lu^ar ,„■.• ili,. , hi,,,, r n v > r
^, , , . , '" "" ihnncs of tlu; Anfjelus from

the churches in the valleys.

I he indi-ence of the seene must be inon- ih-.n . ., • ■ • .

, , """^' '"'"' •' imsHm^r mia-ination, f.,r to this

day the p.,ple of Isle aux Condres are note,) U. H.eir preservation of the simplicitv
and ,„tc.nty of life tha, distinguished the ,>al,Uauis of former generations, and fc.
tl-n- devoutness. Th- .Al.h. Cas.rain is authonty U. .he statement that out of a
population o, about -50, there are 500 eoiuinuni. ,u)l.,

I-he Isl.. aux Coudivs, so name<l fn.m th. ha. 1 ,„.. ,■,,,„., f,„„,, „,„^„ ,^ ,„^^. „^
t^.. oldest I-rench settlements, and in Uself would (nnn.h material for an artiele. h uas
here that, in ,;59. Admiral Durells s.pia.lron wait-d ,.,- ,h„ ,,., ,, .Volfe's expedition
I he troops camped for two months on the island, uhose people ha.l fled to the n-

ce.s.ses of the hills behind l^aie .St. Paul W^,, ,a ih,. / ,/„/ ,

' ■""• '^^" "1 UK' luthihiiit,. eay;(,.r to cr^.t n,;ws for

the I^rench Governor, crossed over at ni^lu, ,u,d, lyln, in ambush amon, the rocks
surprised in the early nu.rnin, two Kn.lish ol.ice.s, .ho„l thev earri.-d off ' to Quebec'
one beinir Durell's .i,rrandson.

On Cartier's arrival at ,h,. island he found Indian, ratehin. porpoises. The Semi-
nansts of Quebec, who are the sa.nnns, are s,„d ,„ ,,,„„ „„.,,,, „„ „„. „^,,, ^^^
early as ,686, but the hist regular leas.s of 1. „. ,h,.ir .v........... aiv .,f m-ieh

later date. .\ couple of hundred porpois.s hav. b. e„ |,i|l„., ,„ „„. ,,,,,., ^„^, ^,^,.,..,
" ' "7^' ''" '" ''''■ ■'""' "'^' ^'^'>- "'- hnndivd and ,„.„„„ „,,,, ,„,,. ,,^.,„„.,,, „,
on. tide. As each porpoise yields about a barivl and a half of oil, besides th.-
-1- '^' l-ther th. skm affords, the work is prohtabl- ,0 the islanders, though it has
not alwavs proved so „. H,,- companies ,ha, from Mm.. „■ time have established flsh-

"■^^"' ' '"■^" "^''" '" '^^""""•--'-'' ■\-" '!'■ ^"■. Anne, and Riviere Ouelie. The
hsheries or ^V^,. are of peculiar construction, S..p|i,„, nfteen to twentv fct Ion,
are driven, about <.i.ht,., n inches apart, into th- h.,u- .helvin. beach from'hi.h to l.nv
water-mark, so as to form a semicircular hed,,, .-ndin, in a spiral curve, th- r,rro.
rhe porpotses. chasin. the shoals of herrin-.s and s„,e|„ ,ha. come up the riv.. close
■n shore with the rising tide unconsciously follow their pn.y inside the /.vvi,. Seekin-.
to ^et out. and frightened by .he saplings shaking in ,he strong current, they swim
a^on. tlu. hue of the frail barrier till they are in the .mok at its end. This directs
them back to the line of saplings; they follow it ..,ain and a.ain, ahvavs finding
t cmselves confronted b, the obstacle, till, terrffied and despairing, thev give up hope
of .scape. The falling tide leaves them either .tn.nde.l or confined to stretches of

wiinj; to ihfir
WL'sifin end oi
tlif Mass which

Canadian soil
OSS tlu; water.

Angeliis from

n. tiir to this
the simplicity
tions, and for
that out of a

luTC. is OIU' <l|

irlicl<-. It w as
■'s i'X|)e(hti(in.
;(l to the rt-
t,fet n('\vs for
111,' the rocks.
f to Oiiehec,

I hi: .Semi-
he (ishery as
arc of ii;;ich
111. and there
captured in
besides tile
lion^h it has
ibhshed fish-
)iie!Ie, The
y feel lout,'.
lii.L;h to low
, the racroi.
e river clos-e
hi. Seekiny;
tliey swim
This directs
lays findinjr
ive ii[) hope
stretches of

OF ri/H CONT/NHNT

•5J

Ml'KR.W HAY.

shallow water, where
they are ]iiirsiie(l liy
boats, and kilhid with
har[)oon and lance. The water,
foaming untler their xit^^oi-ons ef-
forts to a\oid the fate they seem to know is
coming, turns red with bloodv foam, and their

ii> :

'54

THK HASTERXMOST RIDGE

1^^ i MS:h

|)itt;c)ii^ noise minj,rU's with the shouts of tho excited (ishermen. It is a lively scene
to watch at first, hut soon iK-comes a cruelly murderous one. 'I'he massacre is soon
over, for the porpoises keep together and show no tij,dit, being in reality as inoffen-
sive and iieipless as sheep, notwithstanding their great size; they are from fifteen
to twenty feet and more in length. The stories of their devotion to their young,
of which the\ have generally onl\ one. and carry it upon their fins close to their
breast, arr vf-ry touching. The mother will remain to be killed rather than leave the
littlr one.

Hut if you woukl know all there is to tell about the Isle aux Coudres, you must
maki a mental "Pilgrimage" thither with the Abbe Casgrain, or a "Promenade"
around it with the Abbe Mailloux, its ciiarming historians.

I'roui Les Eboulements ilownwards the majestic wall of mountains continues un-
broken, except where the deep recess of Murray Hay affords vistas of mingled
lov(!liness and grandeur, ,in;l whi^n; a few small streams forcing their precipitous way
through the rocky barrier indent the stern shore-line with picturesque coves. All
at once, ;is you ski>-t -St. Catherine's Hay, and round Pointe Noire, the mountains are
cleft by a mighty rift, and a tremendous chasm opens to view, black, forbidding, like
the entranc<; to a world beneath the mountains. Did Roberval and his men feel this
sudden awe when they turned from the brightness of the liroad St. Lawrence in quest of
gold as elusive as the sunbeams dancing on the waves, and began that voyage of which
no man. to this day. knows the ending ? Did ihey feel this shrinking from the hills
tluu rise everywhere in indignant protest ? Or is it only the wind, fresh and keen, and
bringing a strange sense of solitutle from tlu; unknowr. and mysterious north land, that
strikes us with this chill ; and only tiie misty cloud of a rain-sciuall that hides the
summits, and for a moment obscures the sun. that brings this gloom ? The evil spirits
surely have not left the frowning cape which Champlain named La J'ointc dc tons Ics
niahlc.s. One expects to meet them just as verily as did the little band of Recollets,
who landed at Tadoussac in the year of grace, 1615, to begin their valiant crusade
against th(- Father of Lies and his allies of both worlds ; and, as diti, the Jesuit Pere
Du(iuen. in 1647. and Father .\lbanel twenty-fiv(' years later, when he, Monsieur de
.St. .Simon and the son of Sieur (iiidlaume Couture, made their lonely way up this
unknown river through the wilds of Mistassini to distant Hudson's Hay. You are at
tile mouth of the Saguenay. In a moment its weird fascination has seized you, and
will hold you speli-bomii < .j long as you sail through the .stillness that broods over
the mountain shores which confine its deep black waters.

Jaccjues Cartier anchored here on the 1st September, 1533, having heard so much
about the riches of the realm of Saguenay from the Indians of Gaspe, in his voyage to the
Baie des Chaleurs in the i)receding year, that he was doubtless anxious to possess them
speedily. The accounts I)onnacf)na, the Sachem of Stadacona, afterwards gave him.

OF THE CONTINENT

a lively scene
isacre is soon
ty as inoffen-
from fifteen
their young,
lose to their
han leave the

es, you must
' Promenade"

continues un-
of mingled
ecipitous way
coves. All
lountains are
rbidding, like
nen feel this
ce in quest of
■age of which
om the hills
nd keen, and
rth land, that
at hides the
le evil spirits
tc dc ious ics
of Rdcollets,
liant crusade
; Jesuit Pere
Monsieur de
way up this
You are at
;ed you, and
broods over

ard so mucii
oyage to the
jossess them
Is gave him,

I5S

were well calculated to tire the .Mithusiasm of subsequent French explorers, wjjile at
the same time possessing that full share of the marvellous, which in those days seems
to have been convincing proof. It was a country full of gold and rubies, inhabit...!
l.\- white men clothed in w.k,I ; but farther off there were nations of one-legged m.^n,
and others who lived without eating, and, happy beings! had n.. stomachs." Many a
story of these wilds has been told since Donnacona's time, and quite as well «,ualili...l
bs a ting.. ,.f th... supernatural to discourage tin. venturesome and unwelcome expiorern.
It woul.l 1... a happy thing fcr th<: remnants of the Indians were they like their
legendary ancestors ; peoph; with on.; i,.g could not wander too far, and failure of
gam,- wonl.l matt.r littl.. to men without need of food; whereas, now-a-days, hardly
a winter pass.-s without some of the Montagnais perishing miserably from starvation
on hunting excursions. The incentives, however, were so great that Roberval was
c.mmissioned, in ,540. as '■ vur roi ct lieutenant general en Canada, Hochclaga, Saf^ue-
nay. Terre .Veuve. Belle-Zsle. Carpont. Labrador, la Grande liaie et liaecalao.C ||,.
sailed in 154;,, but ih.t expedition was a failure, notwithstanding Cartier's farther dis-
cov.-ries in ,542. Th,- .liamonds and gold that Cartier's men showed Roberval have
never sine- been fou.id, and in 1544 Cartier made another voyage to bring the
wretched survivors back to France. Roberval, it is said, again returned to the .St. Law-
ren.e, an.! with all his company sailed up the .Sagu.Miay ; they were never heard of again,
The Maloiuns, Normans and Hascpies, who frequented the Lower .St. Lawrence to
fish an.l to trade for furs, used to go as far as Tadous.sac before Champlain's time,
and had penetrated a good way up the river before c-ven Cartier; for they had (ished
on the banks of Newfoundland and on the Labrador coast for many years before his
day; while the traditions of Dieppe tell of one Thomas Aubert, who ascended th.-
St. Lawrence 240 miles, ami brought an Indian to !• ranee in 1508.

Pontgrave was one of tlu; adventurous merchants and captains of St. Malo, He
had made several voyages to ra.ioussac, and, with a kindred spirit, Pierre Chaiivin,
was commanded to found a colony and establish the Catholic faith there; for every
commission in those days contained this pious clause, seriously enough meant, but
generally interpreted as a license to •• spoil the Kgyptians." While Pontgrave preferred
Three Rivers as a post, Chauvin laid in a supply of furs at Tadoussac, where sixte.tn of
his men spent a wretched winter of hunger and cold in 1599. Hut, from this timer
out, th.. true sources of wealth in the Saguenay country were better appreciated, an<l
visions of gokl mines gave way to realities of cargoes of valuable furs, while th<!
terrors of the interior have done service in perpetuating monopolies down to our own
day The superiority of the hunting, trapping, and fishing in this region was early
recognized, and. as the means of drawing the largest po.ssible read) money revenue
from it. it was leased for twenty-one years at a time, in one vast block of 70.000
miles in area, three hundred miles long from Les Kboulements to the Moisic River.

■

-'<i^l

ll.

■

••1

■■^mmm

»!

^^H

^;B

*».

,^H

:.«:

^^1

»M

'^^H

■*«

i^H

<56

THE hASTERN'MOSJ /<//)(,/•

fc::

F.NTRANrF. TO SAGUKNAV KIVKK.

and stretchint; b.uk tn the

water-shed nf Ihidsoris liay.

Thus the ••Roj'aumc dii

SacTuenay" became the " I)o-

maine dii Roi."

In 1642 the port of Tad-

oussac was given \>\ \Y Ar-
ofenson tn twelve nf the best
/>our,.-o.s in the country. The first regular lease was u, ,he Sieur 1 ),.maure in ...s^

The Conseil d' Etat ordered a careful survey to be made i„ ,677, but the work was
nnt earned out till ,732. when the surveyor Norman.iin . ompiete.l a most faithful
swvey and map, from which the limits were fixed in the ordonnance of the Intendant
Hocquart m xj:,:,. The Saguenay country was lu-tter known during the l->euch
rc'gimc than the country in the interior between Oueb.-c and Montreal, After the
Ce.ss.on of Canada to England. "The Kings I'osts" continued to be leased everv
twenty-one years; but as it was decidedly to the interests of the lessees to keep the

OF FHK CONTliVHNT ,57

n-sources of tlu- territory unknow,,, .v.rythinjr was don. to mcourage bdiel in its
stenl.ty. m the severity of its climate, in tl,e dangerous nature of the navigation in
the height of and numher of the falls and rapids to he sunnounted ; in short evlry-
ih.ng to foster the general ignorance of the countrj. an.l to prevent competition, for
the annual rental of this immense tract, with all the exclusive privileges, was measured
l.y a few hundreds of poun.ls. In ,8.0, Monsieur 1'. Tache, the sd^ncur of Kamouras-
ka, was examined before a Committ.x- of the Legislative Assembly of Lower Canada
Ho ha<l lived at Lake St. John for twenty-two years, and what he had to say of the
forests, the richness of the soil, the climate, and the mineral wealth of that fertile
valley, came hke a revelation. The exploration made by Houchette in ,828 brought
...nfinnation of all thi.s. and promise of uu.ch more; but the lease :. the Hudson's
Bay Company had not yet expired, and it was not till ,837 that the f.rst steps could
Ik- taken towards settlement.

The good work was pushed on despite all difficulties by the brave colonists fron,
the south shore parishes; little by littl,- lonely trading posts, known onlv to the great
Company, the Indians, and the dauntless n,issionaries, became thrivmg villa-^es • a belt
of settlements has spread from .St. Alphonse and Chicoutimi, past the lonely shores of
Lake kenogami, west and far north in the rich and beautiful valley of Lake St
John, where the big pines fell beneath the lumberers ax< such a short time ago
there are now smiling fields of grain and rich pastures. And the work goes ^on
l>ravely still, for there is room for many h.mdreds of thousands of people with
wdhng hearts and ready hands. The "premieres annees" are only just gone, of
wh.ch it is so strange to hear from men. many of whom are lineal descendants of the
l.rst settlers who set foot in La Nouvelle France. What old Boucher told Colbert in
.663. when he went home to repr.-sent the wants of the colony, is just as true of the
Canadian settlements to-day :-'■ /.. />cr.s-o,n,rs- ,j,u sont bonnes da„s ce Pays ify sonl des
Xens gu> mettent la main a /' ^euvrer and his advice to emigrants is full of commo.i
sense : -•• Tous les fiauvres ^ens seroient hien mieux ify ,;n'cn France, pourveu quils ne
/usseni pas paresseux .■ en un mot il ne faut personne ify, tant homme ^ue Jemme, </u>
ne soil propre a meitre la main h l' wuvre, a mains que d' est re bien ric/ie." "Les
hoguois nos ennnnis" live peacefully at Caughnawaga; one must go farther still to see
any rattlesnakes; the long winters an,l the mosquitoes. " autrement appellds Cousins."
are all that one can now point out as " :~oila les plus grands ineommoditez dont fay
amnoissaneer and even the>- are not so bad as they used to be. In truth, the Sague-
nay ,s but the gateway to a magnificent country beyond, and the French Canadians
have a North-west of their own at their very doors.

Tadoussac. as we see it from the mouth of the Saguenay. is to outward appear-
ance much as it was in Champlain's time. His description of it answers as well to-day
as then :

-ill

'58

////;• /wt.S/hRNMOST R/DdE

••/,<■ ,//,/ /„;/ ,/, r,uio„ssa. rst />c/,f, oh il ,„■ pouryoil ,,uc dix ou dome vaisseaux .-
»iais ay a dc I'cau assy's a //-st, .) /'ahy dc h diltr Rivihr dv Saffucuav, U lo„^ d'unc
Mite Montaigne .,ui est pns,,,,,- amp.', de h ,n,r. /.,■ n-sfe „■ sonf A/on/a/^n,^ haulhs
cUvc'es oit ,7 y a f,cu dc hrre, sinon nn/urs ct s,dd.:s ran pi is dc bois d, pins, cyprcz,
utpins ct ,jue/,fms manicrs d\irl':: J,- p,„, f, , „ ,,„ ,,/// ,,a,;,^, p,.,,-/,, ,/,, y,y ^,„.^
irn/fnm^ dc Monttiii^iics convert a, dc tiois."

"Tho saitl port of Tacloussac is small, ami ,..„KI iu.I.I only ten or tw.-lvc vcsst-ls ;
hut tiu-n- is water onou^rh to tlu .-ast, shdtfro.i l.y thr sai.l River of .Sa«ucnay. alon,;
a little mountain which is almost cut in two l.y the sea. l-or the rest there are
mountains of hi-h elevation, where there is little soil, except rocks an.l sands fille<l
with wood of pines, cypresses, spruces, an.l some kinds of un.l.Twood. There is a little
pond near the said port, enclosed hy mountains cov<Te<l with wood."

Not much of the villa-e is visil.lr from the mouth nf the river; it lies on the
hrst of the henches scarped in th<. enormous hanks of alluvium and san.l that were
washed down here and lod^a,) i,, the Hanks of the hills, when this stupendous rent in
th.- earth made a new outlet for the waters of ,. ^^eat inland s.a, that must rhen
hav exi.sted, and farther evidences of which we shall see .,t th,. other .md of ti,e
.Saifuenay.

Clumps of pyramid-lik.. spruces cover the secon.l lev.^l. round which ih.. hills close
in complete s.^micirde. Th<. vi.-w from this plafat, is >na^rnif,cent. In front vou look
across the .St. l.awn.nc... her,, tw.nty-five miU's wid.s an.l as sm.,oth p.^rhaps as a
sheet of Riass, past 11... au.x lai;vr..s. ll... Hour,.. II,.. Mlanch... 11... Wrl... ...wards Cac.nna

and Rivi.".re du l.oup wl-.er.. th.. south sh..r.. is hut a narrow hlue streak s..wn ,dl over
with white specks, visihie only ..n a clear. hri.c;ht smnmer .lay like this. .\, the .sid,. is
th.. dark Sajruenay. an.l from this h-.i^in y,,,, dearly see th.- w..ll-d,.r,ne.i lin.. where its
hlack waters and deep he.l meet th.. hluc and shallow St. Lawrenc... and vou .lescry .he
r....fs where the tid.-rip ihn.ws stran-e frowns into the calm facv of th.. slr.am ; up t<.

the rijrht you enlilad.' th.. coast we hav.. just pas.sed.

The i,i.tj hotel is always ftdl. f,.r Tadoussac is a charmin.^r pla,,. to spend a sum-
mer in. l.,.r.l Dufferin foun.l it s... an.l his .-.xampl,. hn.u.i^dit ..thers to huild ptvLy
cotta-es. Champlain's '• petit estan.Lj" is n.,u- .h.. lak,- that suppli.^s th.. ponds of tite
Government Fi.sh-breedinir estal.lishment .lown at th.- .\nse a THau, where you
may se.- thousands of youn«- salm.m in all sta.^es of developnu-nt. from th,. ova' to
lively little fellows a coupl.. ..f inch,,.s l,.n-, r.>ady to people the shallows ..f so,n,.

.lepleted river; and you ma>- watch hundr,..ls of th.. parent hsh swimming ,na-
jesti.:ally ro.m.l the p.,n.l at the outlet, ..r leapin.^r i,, vain at th.. n.:t-work harrier
that separates them from the .Sa-uenay ami freedom. The Hudson's Hav C.,>npany's
l-ost is worth seein- thougli sadly shorn ui its lorm.-r .trh.ries in th.. .laN s of monopoly.
Rut chief in inter...st is the littl.' church, built in ,750. on .h.. si... of th.. hark-covered

OF THH CONTINIiXT

«59

ze vatsseaux ;

t/x')ii\\ liaultts

pins, cyprc-,

</ii lilt pott.

/elvc vessels ;
iienay. alont,'
■St there an-
sands fillfd
•re is a little

lies on ihf
11(1 that were
doiis rent in
t niiist then

ind of till'

)•• hills close
111 yon look
erhaps as a
nis Cacoinia
)\vn all o\(r
I tlu- side is
nv where its
u descry iIk-
■•■.im ; up to

x.-nti a suin-

liuild |irctty

ends of tile

where you

the ova to

r's of soinc

111 mint; nia-

ork I)arrier

(- onipan\'s

monopoly.

ark-covered

Hit which ser\fd as a mission
chapt'l until ihc lirst cluiirh was
Imilt in 164S. l''i-(im M)j;g to ijSj,
when th(' secular clerks --uccccdcd
them, the Jesuits did a iioMe work.

I here w,i> a inissionar\ licld for
yon, - from the .Sai^ucnay .iway
down to .Sept lies, and from tlit-
St. Lawrence hack to Hudson's
Hay. The story of their lievotion
IS litly closed by the wondf-rfiii
legend of the last Jesuit who gatli-

'»•«.

MMkl

III 'fur,

160

III

7///:- HASTHRNMOST R/lXili

OF THE CONTINENT i6,

ered the swarthy Moatagnais round him in this very church, Pcrc La Brosse whose
memory .s dear amono, them to this day. It comes from an eye-witness, who died
>n 1674. and is thoroughly well attested; explain it as you ma)-.

The father ha.l been workin,. hard all day. as usual, amon, his converts and in
. e services of the church, and had spent the evening in pleasant converse with some
of the officers of the post. Their ama^ement and incredulity may be imagined when
as he got up to go, he bade them good-bye for eternity, and announced that at mid^
n.ght he would be a corpse, adding that the bell of his chapel would t. for his
passing soul at that hour. He told them that if they did not believe him they could
go and see for themselve.s, but begged them not to touch his body. He bade them
fetch Messire Compain, who would be waiting for tnem ne.vt day at the lower end of
Isle au.x Coudres, to wrap hi„, in his shroud and bury him ; and this they were to do
wuhout heeding what the weather should be, for he would answer for the safety of
those who undertook the voyage. The little party, astounded, sat. watch in hand
.narkn.g the hours pass, till at the first stroke of midnight the chapel-bell began to toll'
and. trembling with fear, they rushed into the church. There, prostrate 'before the
altar, hands joined in prayer, shrouding his face alike from the lirst glimpse of the
valley of the shadow of death, and from the dazzling glory of the waiUng angels, lay
lere La Brosse, dead. What fear and sorrow must have mingled with the pious
nopes and tender prayc.s of those rough traders and rougher Indians as. awe-stricken
they kept vigil that April night. With sunrise came a violent storm ; but mindful oi
h,s command and promise, four brave men risked their lives on the water The l.sh
-ng waves parted to form a calm path for their canoe, and wondrouslv soon they were
at Isle aux Coudres. There, as had been foretokl by Pere La ' Brosse, was M
Compain waiting on th. rocks, breviary in hand, and as soon as thev were in hearing
lus shout told them he knew their strange errand. For the night bjfore he had been
n,ysteriously warned; the bell of his ciuu-ch was tolled at n,idniglu by invisible hands
and a voice had told hin, what had happene.l and w.ns yet to happen, and had bid
hm. be ready to do his office, in all the missions that I'ere La Brosse had served
the church bells,, it is said, marked that night his dying moment.

To this charming legend the Abbe Casgrain a.lds T '• For many years the Indians
gomg up and down the Saguenay, never passed Tadoussac vithout pra^ in., in the
church where reposed the body of hi,n who had been to then, the in,a..e'\,f their
Heavenly Father. They prostrated themselves with faces to tlu. ground^ above his
tomb. and. placing their uKutths at a little opening n,ade in the door of the choir
they tad.ed to him as in his lifetime, with a confidence that cotdd not fail to touch
(.od-s heart. Then th.y applied their ears to the oritice to hear the saint's answer
In the ingenuousness of their faith an.l simplicity of their hearts they ima-vined that
the good father heanl tluMu in his coffin, that he answered their questions, and after-

\ ''

3li

16_'

niE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

m't

<ffe'

IT'"
f

UNUKR CAFE TRINITY.

wards transmiicecl to
Tjod tlicir prayers,
i Ill's tuiitliino- cus-
toiii lias ceased siiuc
tlu; remoxal of the
remains of I'ere I. a
Brosse; tlie alian-
donmeiu and ruin
into which the chapel
of Tadoussac had
fallen d(!cided the
removal of these
holy relics a ^ood
many years ago to
the Church of Chi(-
outlmi."

I he missionaries
had not always to
deal with such docile
savayes, for, in thi-
summer of 1661, the
Iro(|uois descentled
to Tadoussac and
killed several French-
men. Fathers Dah-
!on and Druilletes
escajieil. ha\inj; start-
ed u|) the river on
a journey to Hud-
son's l?ay, in which
expedition, however,
they dill not succeed.
In 162S the Kertks
took possession of
the post, and on(,'
may be sure thai, in
thoso da\s of !).-!!!!
knocks and stronjj
opinions, the Jesuits

transiniiictl t(

OF THE CONTINENT 163

'"';'" ^'^'•^-" -" - ^'- '^-uls of Hu,.,.nots. .ho fo. thei,- religion had to .ive

ni> then- nationahty and sen k s,M-via- n-lth lui-land

In a-ndin, .h. Sa,.,.., ^o,- .he li,-s. .•.„ ,.. ,,.,. ,, ,, ,,,^„^^^. ,^ ^^^^^^^

■n., .u..yth,n. ,s d..c,,,t,v.:, till -vn, a f^din, of disappointment mingles with that of
-0. Nonve^an hords a.. ..-and..,-, and th. Rhin.. is nu.,. picturescp,,., so the .lih
tounsts say as they wond.,- at the impression which these see,nin,lv low hills so ;,-
c^^ y -nake ..pon all on l.oanl. H„t hy decrees the in^nu-nsity and ...jestv assert then,-

el..s. As an abrupt tnrn brings ,he stea,ner close in sl,ore. you realise U.t the other

'' '\ •' '"'' "" '"" '""^^ ''^'"'' ^'"' '''''' ^'"^ '''-'^ '--' ^^^ 'He base of the
.nounta,ns .l,,ch rod away one beyond the other. ,s in truth the shadowed face <.f a
-.hty ch,f, ns,n, sheer fron. the water's ed,e. like that which now to.ers nearly two

^-r^'"' '-'^f^^'^ >■-• '^'-- - - -'---'l-^K- .nuKleur in the .erv .onotc^^y .f
the ,ntern.nable succession of precipice and .o.,e. of lofty LUdT and d^ep-hewn bay
no mere monotony of outline, for every bend of the river changes ti,e picture, in tie
n.a,est,c panorama of hills, .ater. and sky. and every rock has its individuahty • but
e overwhelnun. reiteration of the same ,rand then,e with infinite variety of derail
.n^uu. senses are overpowered by the evidences of mi.hty force-force, 'w.ich von
now as sure y as you see those ,rim masses of syenite, split and rent by 'u,,-
eaval. seame and sc .rred by ice-ber.s. was once suddenly, irresistibiv active but
as now lam dorn.un for a,es of a,es. There is the inevitable sternness' of the mani-
f-tat,on of ,reat power, and this efTect is heightened by the transparency of the
atmosphere, wh.ch allows no softenin, of the clear-cut lines, and heightens their bold
s.eep by .ntense shadows sharply defined. There is no rich foliage; forest fires iutve
s^P an blacken., the hill tops; a scanty growth of sombre firs and slender birches

aong the s.des o the ravn.s and on the ledges of t:. cliffs, wh.e the naked rock
s ows thro^ the tops of trees. The rare signs of life only accentuate the lonely
stdness. A few log-houses on an opportune ledge that overhangs a ni.he-like cove

w .tc sad n. the d.stance. and a wary loon, whose mocking call echoes from the rocks -
what are they .n the face of these hills which were made when "the springs of watlrs
were seen, and the foundations of the round world were discovered."

borne wruers describe the Saguenay as cold, dreary, inhuman, gloomy. .Surely
hey never saw ,t with the light of the rising sun streaming through * its gorges, glad-
en-ng .ts vast solitudes, dancing on the ripple of the current, g', mh,g over the bL.
calm bays, pLay.ng on the waterfalls that shine like silver threads among the dark-
green firs, searching j, a n

the

inn

colour into sj

Htern

■ost recesses of the giant clefts, thro

Srey s)enite and sombre gneiss. Did th<
ity down through unfathomable depths, and

Dwing warmth and

!y trace the reflection of Cape

then with bewildered eye follow the

!)
tit

164

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

unbroken .w.*-,. „f that calm profil. upwards and upwards, till si^rlu was l.d on p .s,
the cloud, imu ,h,- inr.nito? Had the triune majesty of Cape Trinity, stem, solemn
and mysterio.m, no <,ther impression for them than one of ,ir|oom ? Did these moun-
tam w,ills nut ...m, to them like lofty portals, guidinj. straight into the opal glory tha,
l.glus tl,.- w.M.rn Hky at sunset? Throughout all this grandeur of lonely Nature in

''"-''■ ^"'''"^^^ '" '' *'•' --'^ ^^^-^^ ^i calm whici, tempers awe. You feel why the Poet Kinn

found in t|,« K^^nt rocks his imagery of security, and how truly he sang, •• The moun^'.
tains also «hall l<n'(ig peace."

Aft.-r sixty miles of this overpowering ruggedness, the fields and houses arou.,,1
Ha-Ha Hay Wm^ hack a memory of civilization.-not a very pronomiced impression
for the little hait.lct. of St. Alphonse and St. .Alexis, and the scattered cottages which
are with dirfltuilty distinguished from the gigantic boulders strewn along the slopes
seem lost in the vast amphitheatre. The story goes that the bay was named from
the surprised hui^h of the first I'Vench e.xplorers who, sailing as they thought straight
up the river, fotin.l themselves in this huge cul-de-sac. The name is apter to express
the feeling of rdief one experiences uiien ti,e mountains recede for a space, and afTord
as it were X^mnm to speak with unbated breath. To a geologist the traces of the
great convuUioii are nowhere more striking than here, where you have the evidences
of an almost in,;oilceivable torrent. The bay is, in truth, simply what is left unfilled
of one bmil'4h of the Saguenay cleft. Twenty miles straigiu on inland, Lakr
Kenogami, flfto-n miles long, half a mile wide, a thousand feet deep, surrounded In
cliffs an.i n,ouiUm.1., confirms the proof that the immense alluvial deposits, which form
the greater |)in-t of the peninsular-shaped strip from Lake St. John to where the Sag-
uenay and \UAUx Hay separate, are the ,/.■/;;■/., washed down by a tlood like thousands
of Niagaras WAm^^ through an abyss opened in a moment. The islands in Lake St.
John, and the ^i.l.mtli. rocky hillocks tiiat occur so strangely in the clay-lands above
Chicoutimi, artt the water-polished tops of mountains buried in sand and clay.

At lla-Ha May arable lands begin. Once beyond the hill and ^„u can drive on a
goo<l ro,-.d one iMmdrcd and fifty miles or so over a score of rivers, away past the
souLlv-wcst shore <,f Lake St. John. Many a happy settlement will you see, only
waiting for ;t rniUvay and a market to develop it into a thriving town. .Awav bevond
them ag,un, to the n(,rth. up the two hundred and twenty n,ilcs of rapid and' fall over
which th,. River Mintassini drains the water of Lake Mistassini. which is nearly as
large as Lake Ontario; up the Ashuapnuuuhouan to the north-west, and the broad
I>erd,oncatothtM1orth.east; southwards down th. Metabetchouan. and alon-. the chain ol
lakes that stret. h to near Quebec; all round this lovely Lake St. |ohn are fertile valleys
waumg to In, p.ople.l. The vastness of the vast Dominion of Canada is gettin.r tn
be a rather lln-eudbare topic for Governors-General and emigration agents; but "has
any one really u conception of the room there is in it for willing workers, when in on,

OF THE CONTINENT

165

as It;il on past
stern, solemn,
id these moiiii
opal glory thai
lely Nature in
■ the Poet Kino
■, " The moiin-

houses around
ed impression,
cottages whicii
ng the slopes,
s named from
(ought straight
)ter to express
ice, and afford
traces of tlic

the evidences
s left unfilled

inland, Lake
surrounded i)v
■<, which form
here the Sag-
like thousands
s in Lake St,
ly-lands above
clay.

:in drive on a
way past the
y'ou see, onh
\way bc)oiui
and fall o\er

is nearly a^
id the broad

the chain ol
fertile valleys

is getting t'l
Its; but has
when in one

province only, and that a much maligned and sorely despi.sed one. there is a country
good for so much and so many as thi.'- almost unknown portion of Quebec.

But our way lies along the Saguenay a while longer. The narrow passage once
passed, where the steamer undergoes the stern scrutiny of Cap Est and Cap Quest,
grim and stark cliffs, set only half a mile apart, one begins to see tiny settlements here
and there in the ravines between the Hanks of tlu- hills, and on the narrow strips of
meadow between their base and the river. Trees are more numerous and of a sturdier
growth. Cattle are browsing, and penph; driving along the roads. Boats are moving
about, and tugs are taking lumber to the vessels anchored in miil-stream.

In the distance tiie tal! spin- of Chicoutimi church marks the end of the stea.mer's
voyage, for Chicoutimi is .veil named, if the derivation from the Cree. '• Ishko-timew,"
"up to here it is deep," be correct, and I'ere Lajeune, in the -Relation" of i65i, says
that Chicoutimi is " lieu rcmanjuable pour elre h terme <le la belle navigation et le com-
mencement dcs portages."

Chicoutimi is set on an hill and cannot be hid. It is not a city indeed, but it is an in-
corporated town, the .seat of a bishopric. Beautiful for situation, it is the joy of the whole
little world up here. For are there not siilewalks. and shops, and a convent, and a
college, and a good hotel, the view from the gallery of which is something to live for.
Chicoutimi was one of the earliest Jesuit mi.^sions and a great fur-trading centre,
becoming afterwards one of the principal posts of the Hudson's Bay Company. In
1670 a chapel was built, and in 1727 another, of the fragrant and durable white cedar.
The latter was in crumlding e.xistence in 1S50, but had been sadly pulled to pieces by
relic-hunting visitors. The remains of the little i)uilding w<-re finally covered with a
mound of earth by Mr. Price in order to save them from destruction, and the site was
railed round. Manj' interestmg relics from the interior have been preserved. The
Chicoutimi River forms a tine fall of forty feet high just at the end of the nmin
ilreet. This river, in its course of seventeen miles from Lake Kenogami, descends 486
feet by seven falls and a continuous series of rapids. The portage at one of the falls
takes its name of "Portage de I'Enfant " from the story of an Indian baby, who wi.>
left in a canoe that, being carelessly fastened, was carried auay by the current and
leaped the fall of fifty feet without upsetting. .\t th(> mouth of the Chicouf' 1 i is the
great lumbering establishment of Messrs. Price Brothers & Co., the veritable kmgs of
the Saguenay, whose influence is as far reaching as it is beneficently e.xerci.sed. The
founder of the house. Mr. David Price, Sr.. may truly be said to have -made" the
Saguenay district, and his memory is justly held in respect. The stories of his wars
with the Hudson's l?ay Company, when told by some old French canoe-man at the
camp-fire, sound like bits from ih,; 15„uk of Chronicle.s. Nearly everyoody in this
region is, or has been, a lumberer, cano(--man, or a gatherer of spruce gum, of which
quantities are .'.Nported from Chicoutimi to make varnish and for other purposes. It

ill

1 66

/'///:• /LIS7/:/^\'.l/()S/- A'// if,/':

tak

es 1 1

ttk

pcrsiinsidii to coax a m.iii to spifiul ;i hiii

loin

■/,

mncr in a canooiiiL'' tri

u, or to

cs <;r//\ ,jii.i foul la dr,

as tin

expression, • to drivi^

y o'I'Uy pamplira-;c the lui-rlish lunibc

rrr'

lotrs down stream.

Opposite Ciiicoutimi is the picti

.ires(|i

villaL;»' (if St,.. .\,

i_)liilt,

aloiii.

liu

(i,!^'e of whicii w

jierched on a hnh

incis tlK

tll.li

S !'i

jrokeii

iand>

cries

encc \()ii

tak

e a

asl look di

Romp

'lies, !ll(

Sac

iienav

htlore

you turn to scale the tiiirly-Uve milc^ „f f,

to he mounted before you see the hirlii-i)l

•Wll the lon^,^ beautifid vista of tin
dls and rapids t'.iat have

\\\(\ tl

ue of Ihi', (1li|^rhty r

I v'cr.

wliicl

ii I-

leep and stront,^ at its vfni

Hut th'

:re IS no s|)ace

here

;.ej;ninino- as it is at its month.
i!) tell of th«

\>^-,\M'h

iiish witr. \\\\\:\\ li

Saguenay. of th(! lieadioui

by forty strc;anis. tliree of tliem rivi

u'onUers o

f ti

broad

IS i'ci

the

narrow confine at tlie iiead

^vatfi-H nf Lake St. j„l,n, tlia.t
ai die .SajTuenay itself, tear tlirou

the (irano Uric

^\^

■ I'l '♦•

it I

le <j'i<i-

UK I

lie rapids, where

th<

wav(;s toH

illock

antic whirlpooi-

th(

lovely island-studded exiJ.Mises, of rh

'llk-rthiJe foam hi'di in th

e air. o

-f

,lat.

hearted jieopje, of th(
the sahnon tribe, of th

>(*{(lf(ilet)ts and their

rock\-

pi.rtatre.s, of the

smiple,

j.jootl-

e monster pik(

d d.

uid the bean

Nor of L

:ike

St. J

^■< 'III III slid' loveliest and .s^^amest of all
'' lllc swarminj,'- trout, of the beavers

n with its bill,, fi

waves, and the great ufiite veil of the (.)

uiaichoiian I'

every point, ;«s i

t lea|

)s !i:r:"e hundred feet I

iiiK'«' of mountains, its rolling-
I. visible for thirty miles from

rom

the threat cataclysm that surpns,.d the river Ijef
see them yourself, leave the '(i ;;ist _s4-roove
your brown-faced guides, live the life and

and

■I l<'(;k> bluff, a lasting testimony
ore it could change its bed. You must
i' stream and by camp-fire, with

on ill

siiu

the

*»«*I1K L»f iiiin

'• hn i''"'U li'cton, ijui ini,

'• .J

So far the north side of the Lower St, Lawren.-e has furnishe.l these sketches

Not that the other shore is devoid of attraction, | he beaten track for ordinary

travellers runs indeed at the. back of everything, Yo„ might travel over the Inter-

colo.nal Railway year in and year out without gue.sing what beautiful bits of scenerv,

quamt old parishes, and charming people are to b.- found in^t l».^„n i ,i

" ' ' loimo just nejonci the aggravatmg

ridge that lies between the railwav and the river 'I',. I„ . "l

^a) UK. liver, In be sure one gets an occasional

ghmpse of the St. Lawrence- a fleeting picture framed in a window-sash-that wakes
an uneasy feeling of missing a good deal that o.i^h, ;,, ,„. ,,,„ , ^i,,,, ^,,^. ^„„,
lovely views at the river crossings; and a saunter tl,n..„:^ he train, or a hurried wai
on a stafon-platform, suggests that there is a good d«al to study of a life quite <lif.
ferent from anything else in America,

Ju„ . worJ for tl,c „i,„l,„ills Out of l|„| ,|, ,„, ,.„., „ ,^„„„j^j. ^„ j^,,, „,

OF THH CONTIXENT

lO:

ng trip, or td
isli lumbcrirN'

:)f tlu' Upj!,T
1, tli;i.l is !((]
tear ihroii^li
ic \vhirl|)ools
in the air, of
simple, good-
,ramest of all
f the heavers
IS, its rollin_i;-
y miles from
testimony of

se sketches.

for ordinary

r the Inter-

of sccnerx,

aggravatin}.;
n occasional

-that wakes

e are son;

\urried wai

e quite dif

' so full f)f

fastens four hoards to the four [xjIcs, the sails are

complete, and, while his wheat is thrashing, he can sing like his brother, the rafts-
man —

•'Via If Ih'ii Tfiit, v'la U joli vent
Ma mic m'appelle."

No need for a broad tail to pivot the machine to windward. Nature wants no
weather-cocks here ; the barns are oriented as carefully as the churches, for the breeze

•

il
ill

1; ■■

'\\

i6S

Tilt HASTERNMOsr RIIH.F.

ill

l)l()ws citluM- up or down ihc river, cold and fosii^y fmin the north-east, balmy and
cloiid-dis|)cllin<j^ from tlic soutli-wcst.

It is not till l)ic is ncarlv rc^aclicd tliat tlic St. Lawrence hursts full u])on tin; view,
and tile salt air Mows fresh in your face. Hie is a charminj; spot. In contrast with
the wide vistas ol the northern shore, you have here a ])icture, the whole of
which the eye seizes at ,i -lance, yet ii is on a i.^rand scale. The hills, not sur-
passed in heii^dit and aliruplness hy those of .Murray iJay and Les Ehoidements, form a
frame-work rouml the (piadran^ular bay, whose waters find their way in amonjr them
by nnnierous coses, bordered by sharp slopes ;inil ruL^ryetl hillocks. A beach stretches
away from the steep incline, aboxc which tin* viilai^e lies alonjr a snui^f plateau. At
low tiile, beyond the beach, ant wide llats, where black and sea-weed covered rocks
surromul little pools. ■i"hrouL;h the llats nie.mder the waters of two rivers, one at
each ^!^^^\ of the bay. placiilly restin;^ after their impetuous course ilown the ravines,
and iL,dad to reach their Ki\\i\. The narrow mouth of the bay is guarded by tall bluffs,
between which streh h two islands, formiuL,-^ a natin-al breakwater ayainst the swell that
the iiorih-e.ist wind dashes in vain against their steep shores. A few miles out the
ueeply-wooded isl.md of Hie lies dark on the blue e.xpanse, and away beyond is the
noi-lhern coast, mist\ and \'ai.^ue on the hori/on.

LoiiM- wni. when the .Souri<piois, as the Micmac iiranch of tin.' threat Algonquin
family were called. heKl the shores of the .St. Lawrence from daspe to Stadacona, the
loudamans, the forbe.irs of the Iro(piois, harried them incessantly, as afterwards the
Iroquois harried the llurons and the b'n-ncl,. A band of Souricpiois were camjied
once on the shore ,it HIc. when their scouts foimd signs of the enemy's near approach.
Women an<l children were ni.-in\, and warriors few; escape by land was hopeles.s, and
there were not enough cano('s for all. So they sought shelter in a cave on one of
the islands; but the l_vn.\-eyed Ircxpiois descried the faint tracks almost effaced by the
tide, and. at low w.ater, wailed out to the assault, which, thrice repulsed, was renewed
at each ebb-tide. hire did what numbers could not effect. Those of the Micmacs
who were not suffocated in the cavern were driven by the llames to meet death and
scal[)ing on the rocks outside. I'ive warriors, however, had gone to bring help from
their kinsmen, the .Malecites, on the head-w.iters of th(; RivcM- St. John, and they took
a fearful vengeance. The exultant Iroquois found thinr cache discovered, their canoes
and jirovisions destroyed, and a weary march before them of hundreds of miles
through a strange; country, with walchfid and wily foes always on their trail. Not
one of the Irocpiois rcii hed home. .Such is a meagre outline of the thrilling storv
the old Mil mar hunters will tell you, with many a contemptuous sn(!er at their hered-
itary enemies. I )onnac()na told it to Cartictr ; .M, Tache has (nnbodied it in one
of his gr.nphic '• Trois /.cociu/cs." and th(; name of the "//<■/ i//t .Uirssdcrc" perpetuates
the tradition, which b'erland sa\s is conllrmetl l)\ the discoverv of a mass of human

balmy and

Ml tlu: view,
)ntrast witli
: wliolc (if
lis, iKit sur-
:!nts, form a
moiiir them
l1i stretches
atcaii. At
verccl rocks
ers, cue at
;lu; ravines,
tall bluffs,
; swell that
Ics out the
yond is the

Algon([uin
■dacona, thi,-
rwards tlie
;rc camped
r a])proacii.
ipeless, and

on one of
.ced by tli<'
as renewed
e Micmacs

death and

help from
: tlioy took
U'ir canoes
> of miles
trail. Not
iliinjr stor\'
heir hercd-

it in one
perpetuates

of iuiman

OF THE COA'TlNJiNT

169

THERE HE IS!

' il

^'^m

ff:-.

iiH

1)1

'■

II m:

''H

••y,fi

ilM

^^^^T

i;o

7///- /:.IS//A>Ar)/().sr RllHIH

■

I; tT

I'm

■-si

■ OUTlMi.

I)nncs, found sopt"
years a^o in a cave
on one f^^ the lii
Nl.inds.

!nly a few miles
re ! Rimouski

and Father Point, where the ocean
steamers hind tlieir passengers,
impatient of another half-day's sea voyarje to Quebec, am passed, and then the train
turns sharply away from the nver to wind throujfh the ravines of Metis, to clamber
over the hills to Tortaejue and Sayabec, and to descend the valley of the crystal
Matapedia, followinj,^ the canoe route the Indians have us(!d for centuries, and which
many a priest hud to tramp on snow-shoes on his solitary winter journey to the Bait-
des Chaleurs Missions. They were stout of heart and sturdy of limb those early
missionaries. Just think of i'ere Albanel, the same who mounted the Saguenay, walk-

OF rilh: CONTIM'.NT

'7'

"IK ii

11 tlu

u- fr

Perec to (.)l

ic winter ()

f l67c

Yet

It IS

set d

own

as
th

a mere item in his itinerary, a matter of jjiisiness necessity ; tiresome, but quite ir

p usii:

course.

o\ve\' r, \v

(• are goin^ to I'erce by water. 'liic bn

fresh

ens;

the

lon^i

f, slow

swell h.is in it somewhat of tlu; ocean's roll ; tln' opposite shore bc;^ins to fade away,
for at I'oint de Mons llie coast triiids sharpl)' to the norlh-east, so that at Moisic
there is seviMity miles width of wat(;r; and the river is beconiinLj tin: Gulf of St.
Lawrence. Skirt injr the .outh shore we p.iss He. St. IJarnabc, where, towards the
il of last century, a hermit lived; Cap a la Haleine, reminding one of the whale-

fishing of the Ii.
Mechins, the " <■

i'^(|ues, where Cartier turned homewards on his first voyage; Les llets
\ il islands," wlK:re the giant demon lay in wait for imbaptized Indians,

anil brained them with a pine-tree for a Jub; Ca| ''hat, a stupid vulgarism of Cap
d(! Chastes, whi-re the I'irst Ro\,ds were wrecked in 1813. The St. Lawrence has
been the tomb of many an brnglish soldier and ^ailor before and sinci- then. In
i6qo, Sir William Phipps lost nine of his ships as he returned from the unsuccessful
attack on Quebec. Over there, to die northward, you can just make out through
the glass the rocky shore of lonely He. au.\ Quifs, -where, on a foggy August night
in 171 1, eight tr.insports of Sir Ilovenden Walker's ill-fated fleet were wrecked on
the reefs, and, \. 1 morning broke, the sands were strewn with the red-coated
bodies of a thousami of Queen Anne's best soldiers, and Quebec was again saved.
Tradition has it tli ; an Paradis, an old I'rench sea-dog, who had been captur-
ed by the English, would ^ act as pilot, and allowed them to run straight on
to death ; also that a Mis N^outh, one of the Coiu-t beauties, who had eloped
with Sir Hovenden Walker, was drowned in the Smyrna Merchant, one of the lost
transports.

The cliffs seem low, but they are three hundred feet above the beach. At Ste.
Anne des Monts the hills tower to a height of a thousand feet only half a "dli: back
from the shore, and behind them rise the Shickshaws and the Notre-Dame ran-;.
which is the backbone- of the C^.aspe Peninsula, and the easternmost prolongiU un of
the AUeghanies. The snow lies dc j) on tin se inountains long into the year, and cov-
ers them again when as yet the leaves have hardly fallen in the valleys below. It is
a wild country there. Just one road follows the contours of that rocky coast all the
way to Gaspe. It leads through lonely ravines rich with foli.ii^e ; it crosses many a
beautiful gorge and sparkling stre.un ; it climbs the hills here ; and there it creeps
round their base on 1 .(\ gravelly beach ; it passes through sombre woods, to come out
again to full d; li-ht on the very edge of tretnendous precipices, at whose foot the
surf beats incessantly ; it has old tashionedterries across the coves ; it leads to no
towns, only to little out-of-the-world fishing villages and signal stations; it has no
cross-roads. If you would cross the mountains, yon mu t follow the salmon up the

'Of:!

173

77//!' EASTERNMOST RIDGE

river, or tlie track of the carilx)!! to the mossy swamps, where the pitcher plant, the
Indian's cup, li.i, its home, to where tiic lal<cs lie still and calm amid the hills, and the
waters turn towards the Baie ties Chaleurs.

Past the Cap de la Madelaine, where- the wail of the " fhaillaid de la Madelaine"
crying for Christian scpuitiire, is lieard all niq:ht lon.i,r al. <• tiie iiowlinj,' of the storm

ON nil': U'l'I'KK SAi.L'KNAV.

and the roar of the Ijreakers ; past I-'ox River ami Caj) des Rosiers, wlience the French
outposts first saw Wolfe's fleet, and where, on stormy nights, the emigrants drowned in
the " Carrick " call in \ain for rescue from the terrible surf; and Cap (jaspe is in view.
The Confederation Act has gi\(Mi Ca[)(! Breton a statutory claim to he the Lands
End of Canada ; hut" Cap Caspc has history, tradition and etymology in its favour. At
sight of it the two Indians, whom Cartier was bringing back to their own country, the
first Canadians that visited the Old World, cried with joy, Honguedo! Honguedo !, and
this bold promontory, held firm by the mountains against the ceaseless assaults of the
sea, was long the sign that " La Nouvelle I'Vance" was at last in sight. M. Faucher de
Saint Maurice says that in -loiUaLjnais tongm- it is called " ii uihakip'equc" whicii is,
being interpreted, "the end of the earth." Its clifTs, seven hundred feet sheer, over-
sea for miles in one stern unbroken wall

ing

grey

ith red and

OF THE COiVT/NENT

>7,?

Mack, polisheil by tlu; incessant lasliin^^ of the spray, which tiic Dpcii oce-an ilasiies far
ii|) its face, and tenantcul l)y cioiuls of sea-birds. y\l)ov(; tht' cape rises its mountain
JMittress, towerin}; from mossj shipcs of (/I'fir/s, that cross each otiier in wild confusion
at the base of .1 mighty precipic*;, wiu'rc crystal rills trickle rlown, ami thi; d.iinty blur
ixlls ciinj; to tin; crevices, and the wild rose finds a foothold. L'p to 1851, I.c Foiillon,
a strange, isolated rock, stood solitary in the sea, a stone's throw from the end of the
point; it has ^iven its name to the whole promontory, and its Indian n^xw^, Katscpiou,
" that which is separate," is the orij^inal of Ciaspe, appropriatel) enough, for this is an
isolated rejjion indeed. The Frencii called the rock "La Vicille" from the resem-
l)lance, Ferland says, the bunch of trees on its summit t^ave it to " the head of a
woman covered with a large coif, such as our Canadian grandmothers used to wear."
The English name, " Ship Head," taken from its subsequent strange likeness to a
ship under full sail, is still givi.-n to the point. But the waves have long since swept
away all traces of the rock itself.

And now Gaspe Bay opens to view. It is a lovely sheet of water, fifteen miles
long, five or six wide at its mouth. ;\11 along the north side it is closely bordered by
the mountains, whose steep slopes end abruptly in cliffs at the waters' edge. A mighty
upheaval there must have been to tilt the whole country up ;it such an angle, for the
perpendicular precipices on the .St. Lawrence site are but the clean-cut outer edge of
the harder strata at the foundation of the hills. The cliffs are indented by well-like
coves, where strips of sand, and beaches richly coloured with pebbles of all hues,
afford room to land the boats and dry the nets of the numerous fishing stations that
stud the shore. In many places ladders lead down into these coves, for the banks are
so straight that you can drive along their edge and look down into the boats lying
alongside the floats. On the edge of the coves are the warehouses, one storey high on
the plateau above, three or four where, supported on staging and piles, they overhang
the water. Roimd the warehouses are clusters of cottages ; there are fields and grain
growing in th(;m, and very [)leasant are these bright spots among the dark woods and
sombre hill-tops. Evitlently the ])eo|)le are farmers only when the wind blows too
high for tile boats to go out, or when the fish have not " struck in." The crops are
not poor, for the soil, though rocky just here, is good when there is any soil at all,
and there is abundance of magnificent farming land in the rich valleys and fertile
intervr.is of Gaspe County. There are all th;^ characteristics of a fishing village.
Everything is built to stand a hard blow. There are nets everywhere, hanging on the
fences, pileil up by the roadside, dangling from the gables at the barns; Boats are at
anchor in fleets off shore, hauled up in rows on the beach, and lying in the fields and
gardens ; when quite past service in the water they do duty on land as hencoops and
pig-stys. There are fish-flakes, made like hurdles and covered with dried cod and
haddock, which little boys lazily turn, so as to give sun and air full play. Barrels of

'lll»(

ill

7//£ Js\lST/SA\V.I/()S/ RIDGE

mack.T.-l ,1,1,1 Ii,.,Tin.!T and hn-s of salt are lica|)c,l
I'l' '" III'' 'Mvs of thr shcls. Anchors and spars
arc pilcl ill ..very (■r>rnfr. \'ou mrct men carry-
ing an oar, a strin- of cork ncl-tloats, or a coil
of rope, or driving; a hay-cart full of nets 'j-hr
wnmcn aixl ^irls arc h.isy on the slopes mending
n.-.s torn l.y ,lo--li-,h or stray sharks ; fresh air,
sah spra), and frc.pient turns at the oar, accoim:
for tlieir l.iivoin lij^invs and rosy checks, A simple.
honest, khidly folk, these fisher people, and n:-
liRious, loo, ,is ihe nuinher of tiny churches at-
tests A l),ird life theirs, for this is a terrible coast

kiviEre du

I.OUP

for gales, and tiie win
ter is Ion;j;, Some are
well-to-do, but the money ltocm
mainly into the i>o kits of the
great jersey firms, who liave for
years monopolized the fisheries. It
may almost be said of the Ci.aspd
fishermen, as Cartier said of the das-
pesians of his time, " Hardly ,iny |)oorer peo-
ple can lie found in the world, and 1 b.|i,.ve
that all together th<y would not h.ive the
worth of fiv( sous l)eyond their boats and nets,"

About ten miles up, tin- width of the bay
decreases to three, and goes on narrowioL'- for

four miles farther, wher.. two long capes projr.tjng, o„c on each side, make a
natural breakwater for a beautiful iiarbour funm:d by the estuaries of the Rivers

OF Tirr. roxTixixr

'/.I

rnien slopu tliat

hi^h a')(nL' tlic wliarxcs and i-cd-roolcd

war
of

reho

list's on t'jc Ijcac

In lluj docks and out In the stream

a ( ui'ious lolk'ciion

vessels

a in;

^lOverniiuMi

t cruiser just returned li

Ami

cost I

d-!

(xld-lookuii.

foreign barques come t.<r cart^oes of fisli

tliree-inasters loaded with salt ; trim

schooners
smartness

fitti

ne ou

t f^

or the C'.ulf

American vacht, rivallinLT the nian-oi'-war in

of crew, and in frei)uency of firint^r ; tiie reguhir p:isseneer -tei'mer liiat plie

on tlie I5aie des Chaleurs :
and, stransjest craft of all

shari)-( Milled

retl-sailed lishiiii^ boats read\- f

or an\' wx-atlier

iis/e scow used as

by one man ! Thtjre is an air of leisure about everything,
is no idle, half-forgotten port from whi<h the glorv of f

ferr\--b<)at, and dexterously workeil
Uid truK', lhou<'h (iasne

lik

Atlantic towi

but

ormer (.la\s lias ^one lorever
little pki

e some Atlantic towns, but a prosperous and l)tis\- httle place, it does seem to
the unconimt^rcial traveller as if town, \(.'ssels and warehouses were there but as
parts of a picture, thrown into the composition for the sake of life, colour and
contrast. I'or you an: in the midst of the wildest scener}'. Three large ri\crs,
cleaving their way through the highest hills of the whole .St. Lawrence District. —

il not of Canada, east of the Kockv i\l

oil n tains, — converue towarus

lieail oi

the bay. To the north and east are the peaks we have seen from the St. Law-
rence ; to the west, the bt.Miitifnl vale of the St. John; to the southward, beyciul the

cs?****

;tB!i:i
lire

lii

170

•f I)

(Ull.

yy//;" E.ISTERNMOS/' RJDi,]-:

astown, rises tlu' Ial;)yn'ntli of mountains, ilirougli whose gorges tli

loxclicst ro,

\\\ v^anacla lead

crcc.

!■

orest iinhro

Vvw,

sa\e Ml [)

atch

t:s on

IJK

nearer sloije, slrctcii

es awav

iliite

sails on the l)a\', the h.

for miles in every din.'ction, except to tin; east, wiicre th(^
ht-hoiises on tile points, the cloud banks on tiic horizon

lead the e\e to ih

i.\ open sea.

It was i)rol)al)ly just at the entrance to Gas[)c Basin that, "on the third of Mav
(1536), being the solemnity of the Holy Cross, Cartier caused to be planted with great
pomp a cross thirty-live fei't high, upon which was an escutcheon with the arms of

ranee, and bearinij- these; words i

II 1

.<:.);n;ui letter.-

' ranciscus

■imus Dei Gratia Frai

<ex Ketrnat.

lis ctM"enionv recal

the

interesting account of the veneratior

.f t

le cross by ont' particular tribv

)f ti

le Caspesians, the Indians of the Miramichi

District,

ijiven In'

Le C

erc(iu, HI

ills " Nouvelle Relation de la G:

spesK

heil in i6c)i. and containinj.

hist(

r>-

nis mission

at Gaspe from th

e \-ear i(

As li(! himself remarks, this singular custom might
had formerK- received a

rsuade us that these peopli

lowledi'^e of Christianit

ihlch had afterwa

rcis been

St th

:h th

e neL'lec

tof

leir ancestors.

b'erland
I(;ri\'es the custom from

imitation of the I'

hut the traihlion ijisen b\

r(Mi('li,

Le C

erc(|u,

lie w

hoh

[tnd,
)f th

iiKleed

cir-

cumstance'

are

auamst

u c li

exjilanation.

Cart

irtiers cross,

aiu'

occasional

meelin'r with

e sailors ol

lishing

ly ha\e impresseel

I.-

could Hard

upon

ese most eoiiservatue

pe,,|

le tl

if il

i<? sacred-

le christian

(.'inhlem, much ii -,s iiave

broULiht about

absolute cidttis ,is ilial which Le CI
relat

eri'(|u describes

leir tradition nm.

es, that, tlu'ir aiucstors beiii

if tl

leir old men were overcome

g sorely a
tl

llicted with

a pestilence, some o

f tl

le wisest

y tlie prosjiec

t of tl

le desolation uid ruin of their

OF THE CONTINENT

177

178

7///; EASTERNMOST RIDGE

iKUioii and I'll inio a "s!(.c|i full of bitterness," in which "a man exceedingly beau-
tiliil apiKaml |i) tliein with a cross in his hand, who bade them return home, make
crosses like \\U, jiiid preseiU them to the heads of families, assuring them that
they would iiiidnMbledly find ihenaii the remedy for all their ills." The [)eople, at a
general assembly (if |!ie nation, receiveil with lionour the sacred sign of the cross thus
pr(;sentetl thefl) fcoili heaven. Thereupon " the malady ceased, and all the af/licted
who res[)ectfu||y (-(iffictl tin- cross were miraculously healed.'"

After this, the criiMS became among these people an object of the highest venera-
tion,— a symbiil ;ii)d talisman employed in every detail of their lives, and buried with
them at ili'ir tiejttll. The worthy Rccollet found this singular reverence for the
cross surviving .(ltl»mg them in his day, though somewhat in decadence, and he
tonchmgly narmU's* the use he made of it to turn savage superstition into tdiristian
belief. 1 he iliujHfif he gives to it is one of the most interesting in a singularly in-
teresting little bunk lo which M. Fancher de St. Nhuiric- was the llrst among l""rencli
Canadian lilli'rcitfHi'a to direct attention. .Some of the other Souri(p'ois traditions re-
lated by I'err \ a< i\\{'X('\\\\ have a curious resemblance to Christian belief as to the
early ages u( th«' world. Could Donnacona's white m(;n clothed in wool, and the
"man e.xceediligl)' fifiinitifur' of th(; Porte Croi.x legend, have been the Norsemen?

The Hay of P^'llntiil -th(; old b' ranch name — has been a harbour of refuge ever
since Cartier, after hmifig an anchor, spent ten da\s then in |ul\, 1534. Vessels
cami! then- from I i.hkc e\er\ year to fisli ; for Champlain was sending a canoe tliere
to learn m-ws of ll)c I)e Caens, who were on their wa\ to his relief, when he heard
that they and T,Mloussa( liad been captured by the Kertks. M(}r<- than one battle
has taken plaic in its waters. In 162S, I )e Ro(|uemont iVnight th<- Kertks till, for
want of cannoii--bi(IK\ liis sailors used th<-ir souniling-leads ; but the b'rench squadron
had to strik'' their Ikigs, and see the J(.-suit Misssion burnt by the \ictors. In 17:1,
Admiral I lovi'Kd'il Walker again di'stroyed the little settlement, ,uid in September,
I75,S, the I^ngli^•l) oiK e more repealed its I'.evastat ion, sevlim; a part) across the hills
to I'erci', ulicre the li^hing-posts were burned and the people made prisoners. (ias-
pesi(; was ii)c)(i'U'«1 ill the grants of Xo\a Scotia to .Sir William Alexander by James
I and ( harles I, Curiously enougii, a c(Milury later, ISeauharnois proposed to re-
ino\> the Acadiilim from Nova .Scotia thither. liut the history of C.aspe would make
a book, and tlt«'r«' H oflc more spot lo \isil before the re-imlering coast line of the
St. Lawreiue b«'j4iil'» to form the liaie des Chaleurs.

La Ko( he l'er(:('e, "the pierced '"ock," stands bold and lirm to the end, though
the clilfs of M(M|( )'»li, on the main-land, and of lionaventure Island, two miles out at
sea, eonflrm the Indian tradition, given I)\- Denys, that once there was no break in
these perpendicular Wivlls of rich-hued conglomerate, where the reds and browns of
sandstone, the bri;;lit olives and greys of limestone, greens of agate, purples of jas|)er,

OF THE CONTINENT ,79

white quartz, and dcep-orannrc stain of iron hlend to^Ljether, and, seen against brilliant
blue sky and emerald sea, form a wondrous combination of colour. I5ut the waves,
with unbroken sweep from the open ocean, beat fiercely on this marvellous rock, and
have already battered down the three grand arches Den\s saw. Seventy \-ears before
Deny.s, Champlain says there was only one arch, which was large enough for a sloop
under full sail to pass through. At present then; is but one; (opening, forty or lift\-
feet high. Many remember the might)- crash with which the immense arch at the
outer end of the rock fell just before dawn one mo.-ning about forty years ago,
leaving as its monuuK'nt the great monolith that formed its abutment. .Slowly and
surely wind and sea are doing their work ; they have iiegun another aperture, not
more than a couph; of feet in diameter, through which the sunbeams flash as thr
eclipsing wave crests rise ;uid fall. On the north side is a tiny beach where you can
land at low tide on a calm day. It is like a profana'.iou 10 tread cm the [jiles of
agate and jasper glistening with water, whose (-very roll tosses up millions of peb-
bles for the sun to turn into rarest jewels. Myriads of fossils givi' to the face of the
rock, that at a distance looks so hard and weatJujr-worn, the ajjpearance of an
arabesque in richest velvet. In this little cov(>, shut in by the cliff from sight of
everything but the water and the sky, with no sound but the cries of the counthss
birds that tenant the di/zy heig^hts, and the music of the surf as its ihunderous bass
dies away in ra|)id fugues to tendercst treble of clattering pebbles and dashing spray,
we might sit and ilream till the great, green rollers, through which a mysterious light
gleams on weird shapes of trees and grottoes, and casti(;s and palaces, carried us off
willing visitors to the enchanted kind thi'y rev(;al.

Everywhere else the rock rise's straight from ilecp water to a hc-iglit of three
himdred feet. At its western enil it is worn to a wedge as sharp and straight anti
clear-cut ,is the prow of an immense iron-cla.l, which it singularly resenibles in outline,
il one can imagine an iron-clad tlfteen hundred {va-x hmg and ihre<' luuuln'd wide. Its
top is covered with grass, but this is barely visible, because of the inuuense Hocks of
birds, winged armies ranged in .serried order. blach trib.' inhabits its own territory;
the black cormorants never mingle with the white gulls ; the great gann.'ts and the
graceful terns ket^p their own place.-. If any presumptuous bird wanders into the
ranks of another tribe, then- is a tremendous screaming and llapping of wings to dri\e
away the intruder. They come and go incessantly, .arcling high owr tne schools
of herring, and plunging deep to seize their \nr\ ; they swoop an)nnd the cod-lishi'rs
at anchor far out on the banks ; they follow the boats in to the be.ich when- the pack-
ers arc at work ; they flit like ghosts about the nets wh<-n in the silvery moonlight
the fishermen go in cjuesi of bait; but thv\ rdurn always to tii- rme spot allotted to
them among the densely packed mass of white, that from a distance looks like a bank of
snow. During a storm their shrieking is almost unearthly, and ran be heard for miles

THE HASTEKNAinsr lUDGE

About the bejTinniim of tliis centiirv a fox iw said t(*
have found his way up, hc'wv^ surprised on iht? hniw\\ in front
of the villaL,rc and cliasi.-d across tlic siialiow wltifll at low
tide connects the rock willi tin' siiorc. He fouiul a vulpine
paradise, and made sad commotion amon^ the h)r(l<i, whose
refuge had till then been thought inaccessible, I lii* exploit
suggested the possibility of men going also, and two fkher-
men did climb up at great risk. With rope.s Hiid ladders
a regular path was then established, and it
beca'".e the custom to rob the nests of their
big rich eggs, and to kill the

^^/.

OF THE CONTINENr

i8i

birds for the sake of the down. The ascent, always perilcus, was forbidden by law
after a man had been i<ilied, and the birds rc.yain.HJ undisputed possession. Owin^
to the fall of huge masses of rock, the summit is now proijabiy inaccessible.

Perce has been a fishing-station from the earliest times ; lish and fishing are its
raison iVetrc as a town. Tiiere is fish everywhere on land as well as in the sea. It
is stored in warehouses, drying on tiie beach, piled up in thatched stacks, and brought
in by the boats, that come and go twice a day, in white-winged fleets, to and from
the banks away beyond the red cliffs of Honaventure Island, that lies out yonder like
a huge wiiale basking in the sun. The very bacon and potatoes a-e lishy, for the
same nutriment feeds alike animals and fields. Hut there is so much of beauty in
and about Perce, that one can forgive an occasional reminder that there are other
senses than that of sight.

" The codfishery throughout tiic Gulf." says Mr. Pye, in his Gaspi Scenery, " is
carried on in open boats, two men composing the crew of each. But ere the cod can
be caught a supply of suitable bait must be obtained,— herring capelain, mackerel,
lance, scpiid, smelt, or clams, all of which are available when used in their seasot:.
for even cod an' epicures. The boats proceed to the fishing-ground at sunrise, and
return when laden, or when their bait is expended. Having reached the shore, the
freight is landed and brought to the splitting-table. The first operation is to cut the
throat, the ne.xt to take off the head and .secure the liver. Then follows the most
difficult and .sci(.-ntific operation, namely, splitting, which consists in removing the back-
i)one. Good splitters are always in good request, and command high wages, l-rom
the splitting-table the fish is thrown into a box-barrow and carried to the stage,— a
large building where the process of curing commences. Ihe barrow being placed on
the .scales, the lish is then weighed and taken to the Salter,— another skilled hand, who
makes a .square pile, carefidly sprinkling salt over each layrr as he proceeds. It re-
mains in bulk some three or lour days, is then washed in large vats, returned to the
box-barrow, and carried out to the Hakes, where it is carefully spread to dry.
When moderately dry, it is carefully piled on the pebble beach in small, round piles
shaped like corn-stalks. Here it undergoes a species of fermentation, the remaining
dampness being exuded. This is termed making. When sufficiently made, the fish is
again spread out on a fine dry day for a few hours, and finally stored in readiness for
shiumeni. 'Iliree modes of engaging fishermen are adopted by the merchants. The
most common is by the draft ; that is, the mm pays for all he gets and is paid a cer-
tain price per draft for the fish as it comes from the knife, a.. abo\(! described. The
draft is the double quintal of 224 pounds, with 14 pounds c'xtra allowed for sand and
dirt. On(.'-and-a-half quintals are supposed to yield one quintal when dr\-. The next
mode o.f engagement is that of half-lines men. These pay for their provisions, and get
half of the fish they catch when cured and ready for market. Men who fish on

1«1

182

Zy/Zf EASTERNMOST RJDGE

wages are generally engaged by the master of the boat, wlu,, in that case, derives th,-
benefit or bears the loss, if any."

Allusion has already been made to the fisheries carried on by the French at a
very early date. .\n old manuscript in the Hibliotheque Royale at Versailles attributes
them to a date even earlier than th.- discovery of the coast of Labrador by .Sebastian
Cabot, who, it is stated, found there ti,- name of Bacallaos, winch, in the Basque
language, means Moines, or codfish. In ,6,8 Do Poutrincourt a.lvises tl,e forestallin-,.
of the. English by French settlements, and tlie erection of two or tiiree forts along the
coast of Acadie, to gua,-d the llsiieries, which he estimates as being then worUi to
France ., million a >ear in go!,!. The fisiieries in the Gulf and the River St. Law-
rence are not included in t'u; privileges g,-anted b)- tlie Commissioners to Roberval, de
Mens an,! othe,-s. but were left f,ee to all. and were carried on in small ventures,
api>a,-e,uly. In the chai'ter of th<.- Compagnie des Ce.its Associes, in ,627, the King
expressly reserves the cod and whale fisheries, which he wishes to be free to all his
subjects. In the accou.it which lunery de Caen gives of his voyage to receive
Quebec back from the Kertks, in ,632, he sa> s, after speaking of the whales, of which
he saw plenty : " They come here; ,tlso to fish for cod. I have seen a great number
of seals, of which we killed several. White porpoises are found in this great river
named the Sainct Laurens, and nowhe,-e else- ; the English call th.Mn whke whales,
because the> are so large in co,nparison with the porpoises ; th.-y go up as far
as Quebec."

It was not long before permanent lishin.u posts were seriously thought of. Tiie
Commission of Sieur \irnl,,s l.n.^s, in ,053, ,.,-ants him the right to form a stationary
company to i,sh for "cod, salmon, .nackenl, herrings, sardines, sea-cows, .seals, and
olIuT fish, ' on the con.litions that the habitans should be allowed to take as many
sha,-es as they please.l, and ihai the persons whom the king wished and intended to lit
"nl with vessels might carrj- on " p,s,hc vcrte ct shlu-;' that is to say, might salt or
drx- thHr fish as they pleased, '-tout ainsy ,ju i\ Cordinaircr In ,666 Talon writes to
the iMinist.r that he has commenced the cod-fishery in the river, and finds that it can
be carrie.l on abundantl\- and with benefit. In 1669 the people of Canada were
accord<,cl the right to sell fish in France, on payment of the entry dues only-four sous
per cent, of cod caught by lines, and twenty pounds per cent, for spoiled fish. It
may be noticed here that coal from Canada -" charbon de terre" the I'rench called
it. in curious contrast t.^ the ■• sta-coal" of contemporaneous English-was admitted to
France, by the same arrit, on payment of si.x sous a barrel. In ,671 Talon reports
that "the stationary fisheries, being regarded as an assured benefit, '.he Sieur Denis
and the Sieur Bissot. habitans of Quebec, have applied to me for grants for fishing for
cod and seals and for oils; I have granted them." In the same year Sieur Patoulet
received instructions to study, "with care and application," the management of the

OF THE CONTINENT

18.;

tishinjr stations that lia-l <iono so niudi for the English colony at Boston, in onl.-r t„
tatce the lK;st measures possible for those aboui ' ) he estabhshed around Perc.'s In
1676 a memorandum on Canachi reminds tiic; i<in,- not to ne.L,dect to secure by every
m(!ans the control u{ the fisheries ami the market of all the ,<,rreen and dried (idi uHfid
in the -greater part of Europe, and an estimate is jriven that his subjects from Miscay,
c;uy(■nn(^ lirittany, and Normandy alone loaded seven or ei-ht hundred vessels every
year with from ten to thirty thousand poirnds of tish each. The Intendant De M<'iik%
in 1682, speaking of what the fisheries had done for Boston, calls them a Peru if tlwy .-an
only be confined to I'renrli subjects. The subsequent neglect of the colony lost I'rancr;
what might have been the complete control of this great source of wealth. After tlife
Cession of Canada to England the m.-rchants of Quebec uncKM-valu.^d th<= fisheries, and
did not take them up. But the old adventurous spirit of St. Malo and Rouen showod
itself in the Jerseymen, whose establishments are now found all along th.; Bale den
Chaleurs and the Gulf. In 1766 Charles Robin came, an.i threw enough energy into
the work to leave his nam.i a lasting memory all along the coast. The I.e llr,nli|.
liers, Janvrin, I'ruing, L.. Brun and others followed. At Paspebiac. Perce an.l (iran<le
RivicTe. establishments were formed. The War of 1812 stayed their progress sonx-wJial,
l)Ut after that settlements were m.ule with renewed vigour, and the great fishing liriHH
that still exist estalijinhud their powcT Irish and Scotch immigrants spread from (ia^ipc
to New Richmond, the French Canadians of the Lower St Lawrence moved down
from one outport to another, until a continuous chain of lishing stations streldutd
along the shore. At Anticosti, at the North Shore, and down the Labrador, little
I)orls were founded wherever a river formed a harbour or a good beach for drying fish
was found. The Jerseymen were everywhere guiding and superintending.

The management of one of thes<- great firms is like the conduct of a small army.
Everything is done by ride, to which as implicit obedience is yielded as to the l.iw^ .»f
the land. The clerks, in most of the houses, are Jerseymen, in some no others are
taken, and they are brought out when young boys to serv,. a regular apiM-enliceship,
with strict requirements as to periodical changes of station and duties. In sonit! r,f
the houses they are not allowed to marry at all, or, if married, they ;ire not
allowed to have their wives with them, so that nothing may interfere with iheir
attention to business, or induce them to leave the service in the nope of bell.nng
themselves at their masters' expen.se. At least that was the somewhat illogical
reason given by one of them, who a,ssiu-ed the writer that he could only see hi^
wife once every three years, when the customary long leave was given for the trip
to Jersey. They live together in one house, <piite in the styK of the gooil old <lays
of the English merchant. liach of these establishments is oi-- - te in itself. ICvury-
thing is done on the premises, and everything from an anch to a needle, as the
sailors say, can be had in the shop, which forms part of it. The neat whit«

t84

TlUi JlASTHRNMOSr h'/Di.l-

are

buildinys, witli n.,1 ,lo„r-uaNs aiul roofs, trim ^M-avol walks and liule ^rardens,
conspicuous fcatur.t at evt-ry port alon- tlu; shor<;, as tlw.y an; \u:r,: at I'ercc-.

l-rom Mount Str, y\nn(. lu-hind tlu.. toun th-nt is a glorious viow. The c-y,.
ranjrcs fn„n tlu- tali p.^ak of Tracadiegctche, just visible far up tl,e Baie des Ciuleurs

COD-l IsUI.NG.

over hill and valley all forest-clad, from point to point alon^ the rock-bound coast-
line of the bay, to Cap d'[-:spoir, where the phantom ship is seen in nights of autumn
gale repeating the drama of -X,ru/nrnr dc rAuj^laisr wii-n an l^nglish frigate-one
of Hovenden Walker's it is supposed-was lu,rled by the hurricane high on "the crest
of that frowning cape, which has vry little of good hope to sailors, 'and seems well
turned into Cape Despair upon the maps ; then round Cape Cove, along the winding
hilly road that skirts the shore. Then you look down inio ,he amphitheatre that
surrounds Perce, on Mont Joli, with its wooden cross at the brink of the clilT, and on
the rock : then far away ov.r P.onaventure Islan.l, across the Culf to Miscou. home
of the "terrible monster whom the savages call Cougou," whos. waist a sliip's masts
would hardly reach; who snatch.nl up p.assers-by and p,„ ,|„.,n in his s;,rk to W ,1,-
voured at leisure, whose "fearful whistling" had b..,., hrard by Sieur Prev.'rt de
Saint-Mah, and reported to Chan,piain. who repeat., .the story with the na.vc: remark.

OF THE CONTINHNT

'85

"Voyla ce que fai appris d, a- aoncou." Then alonjr tl>c line „f clilTs tlu.l r.'.Kl, in
asccndinjr steps from Mont Joli t., tlie -'Corner ..f tiic; Hradi," where th(r .nili.-uhite
surf breaks on the sands in the lovely Lay, nanu;d i)y the: IJretons, from unpictiir-
esque codfish, '^Baie dcs Molucsr and now Malbaie ; aion- ilu- miles of sand-spit thai
hedges in the baraclioh or la-oon of the Malbaie River, to th<. ciuircli and setllemenl
beyond. Down into jror|,ri,-s that converge beneath great walls of brilliant coloured
rock; up again to gaz(; over innumerable hills and dense woods to where the moun-
tains rise behind (i.ispe ; far away over the shining beacli and white |-.ouses of
Point St. I'eter to Ciaspe liay glistening in the sun ; beyond th. in. over the

dark line of the Forillon. to where the loom of Anticosti can jusi . seen ; out to
the open gulf, where the sun lights up the cloud-piles with reflections of its setting
splendour, and the lightning (lashes hew rifts through the fog-banks fast rolling in,
and the white sails fly before the coming storm.

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

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OF THE CONT/N/LVT

187

ill!

LUMBERING.

1^0 phase of life in Canada is more characteristically picturesque than that of the
himberman, identified as it is with all that is most peculiar to Canadian scenery,
climate and conditions of living. Woodcraft, indeed, has the charm of havin.r horn
associated with the youth of every race and civilization. The Psalmist compares the
dispersion of scattered Israel to that of chips that lly "when one cutteth and heweth

iS8

J HE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

woo,] upon the c-arlli ; ■' and Xiryil, describing tiiL' sudden ovcrthi-ow of one of th.
lowers of Tniy, lias a lieauliful simile from the cuttino- down of a forest tree.

Hut special and most interesting features distin.iiuish the liunberman's craft in
Canada; ami these call for some detaileil notice in a Work like the present. A
practically boundless wealth of woodland stretches from our frontier to the I'ole, and
almost from the Atlantic to the I'acilic seaboard. The reyions of an all but Arctu
winter are made endurable, if not a source^ of actual pleasure, because the youth of our
country are enabled to en-a;^e in an industry manly, healthful and remimerative. 'Ihe
accompanying features of that industry-the sleigh, the snow-shoe, the rilfe-the fish
drawn in profusion from beneath the thick-ribbed ice-the trapped bear, the huge caribou
shot down near the settler's door-all have attractions for the artist, the sportsman,
every one with an adventure-loving spirit. A life like this gives our youth the e.xcite-
ment. the manly self-reliance, the spirit of mutual good-fellowship, which are the best
lessons of a military life, without its risks or evil passions.

Not less picturesque is the "shanty" itself-that peaceful Commune of the lumber-
man's hfe, with its routine of duty, healthful food and sleep, varied by the chanson d,
bois or talc of woodcraft adventure, told amid the fantastic shadows and flickerinj.
blaze of the shanty fire. Or when the first birds of spring have broken the charm of
silence in the winter woo.ls, the hardy exploring party penetrating in their birch-bark
canoes by devious streams, to climb the tallest tree and determine, with a skill that
seems preterhum.m, the nature and value of the forest-growth far and wide around
them; or the perilous rivc.-rapids. where the h.-aped logs in a "jam" need the precision
of an expert to disengage the tangled pile, and offn the gracefid footing of a bah
dancer to stand on the rapidly-revolving surface of the log as it lloats down the swollen
stream ; or the navies of huge rafts towed or lloating seawards on wide lake or expanse
of river; all have a distinctive artistic interest. Unlike the national industries of many
other lands, the\- blend with, instead of destroying, what is picturescpie i:-, Nature. But
they have a deeper interest for the student of our national life. For the "Choice of
Hercules" is presented to nations in ^th.nr youth, as well as to individual men; and
sonu^ have chosen pursuits that enervate instead of strengthening, or industries that
separate into two camps of mutual hatred the lortls of capital from its serfs. To
Canada's lot has fall<:n, as her two staple industries, |,ursuits which most of all others
tend to form in her young men a simple, manly, honest nature . agriculture in the f",rst
place, lumlK-ring in the next. The physical benefits of lumbering can l,e estimated
best b)- a glanc... at lh<> stalwart yet graceful figures of our river-drivers in the streets
of Ottawa, sash and top-boots gay with scarlet, and sun-browned faces set off by the
co<|u..ttish whif 'kerchief: jlu'r.. i. a moral benefit, too, in the total abstinence from
intoxK-.uing ILpiors for long perio.ls, which is nn.^ of the conditions of shanty life. Nor
is religion forgotten Xowher<: are the occasional visits of a clergyman more welcome

OF TIJH CONTINENT

189

!IMI !;kl.\(, UN nil-; Ul'I'LR UITAWA.

I go

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

EXI'LORINO FOK NEW LIMITS.

The Roman Catholic shantymcn in particular set an example worthy to be followe.l. in
their regard for ministers and reverent participation in Divine service.

The lumber trade has an orjranic place in the development of Canada's resources,
in the growth of towns and cities, in the general increase of wealth, and in the evolu-
tion of literature and art which, as Mr. Buckle has pointed out, always occurs at periods

OF THE CONTINENT ,_,

of commercial prosperity. In the epoch of Canadian history, h.twe.-n the French
n<,nnc and the Union of ,840. the increase of our population was slow. During that
long period the lumber, too often cut and i.urned to clear the land, was .t best
consumed for the most part by the hon,e u.arket. True, mention is n.ade of ship-
mentof Canadian fmber to I.:n<dand as early as ,8oS. 1„ ,«„ .N'ew Brunswick began
to export the products of her pine woods. lU.t it is between ,840 and ,858 that" we
hnd the umber exports fron, Canada grown to vast proportions. Everywhere nortl.
ward and westward from the frontier, the hunber mill, the hunber dep6t, and handets
connected w.th them pierced the unbroken forest, and led the steady advance of civ-

ilization. Lumber operations were fvfrii.,1-,,..-,. fi, i ■ r •

1 «cic. ever) where the nuclei of miprovement. Villages

arose, and became towns and rifips wNil,. *i, .• 1 .

ana cities, while the contmual ncession of the trade north-
ward developed in its wake the growing resources of the country

The Dominion Government retains control of the public' domain in the North-
west lerntones including Manitoba; but in all other Provinces the land is held by
the several local Governments who ewn and dispose of the uncleared and unsold tracts
w .ch form the great lumber areas. ,n these what are called -.timber limits" or
berths are opened to lumbermen by yearly licenses, or leases for a longer period,
eory these limits are ten miles .square, but owing to the peculiar conformation
of the ground in some places, they range from ten to a hundred square miles
Besides the payment for his annual license, a fixed duty, varying in amount in the
different .^rov.nces, is paid by the lumberman on all lo-^s cut

A berth secured, the next step is to send an Exploring party to ■• prospect."
that IS. to ascertain the value and variety of the timber, and also to hnd suitable
.es for camps for the next season's operations. The exploring is generally done in
the spring or fall, as in summer the thick growth of leaves makes it hard to take
extensive observations. An exploring party usually consists of fiv. or six They
carry with them food, blankets and cooking ute„sils_a leather strap suppordn. th
^.Mnnaua at the back-the band, or ■' tump-line," passed across the Lst L ford.ead
In traversing the forest it is difficult to get at a ••point of vantage" whence to gain a
w. e-extended view. Whenever practicable, therefore, one of the party will cHmb a
tall pine, generally on a hill-top. From thence, looking forth among the still leaHess
rees such is the effect of long experience that an old observer of forest life will
be able to tell from the general aspect of the cou .try, what the trees are. and of
what value, over an extensive area. Thi. is comparatively easy in the case of pine if
.t grows mixed with hard wood. It is not so easy where pine and spruce grow together.
1 he explorers also ascertain the general topography of the limits-particularly. how

road thence to the scene of operation.. They also mark or -bla.e" the trees with thei.

193

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

1 1.::'

axes at various points for the jruidance of the wori<men. An experienced explorer,
capable of determining the worth of the limits, and of mapping out tiie plan of tiic
approaching season's cami)aign, is well worth the best wages. The explorers arc
equipped as lightly as possible. Tiu-y are armed with rilles, and enjoy several weeks
of rough pic-nic life on "the cruise."

During the fall months the lumbermen are sent into the woods with horses,
sleigh.s, lumber-boats, and everything necessary for the season's operations. All is
bustle on tiie lines of railway and on tlu^ roads leading to the lumber district. Swart
and sunburnt gangs of young brcnchmcu, not a few of them with a slight tinge of
Indian blood, derived from tlays wIkmi a grandfather or great-grandfather married an
Algonquin or Huron bride, congregate at every well-known rendezvous. The noisy
fun and universal chaffing would exorcise the melancholy of a Grimaldi. These line
fellows have the strength and graceful bearing of the Indian, and the garrulous good-
humour of the I-'renchman ; their rough dress is appropriate and quaint, and is gen-
erally lit up coquettishly with some bit of bright colour in necktie, vest or scarf.
In the English-speaking settlements within reach of the lumber limits, equally gay
IS the exodus. Most of the young farmers in these regions take their teams to the
shanties. Summer is the working time for farmers in Canada, and they are glad to
earn money in winter with teams that would otherwise be idle. They go forth,
gaily shouting to one another, though none will see the face of wife, child, or
sweetheart, till the spring brings them home rejoicing, with their earnings to add to
the family purse.

Each gang is under the direction of a foreman, who follows the plan laid out by
the explorers. The first duty is to build a .shanty for the men. and stables for the
horses. Logs are cut, notched at the ends and dove-tailed together, so as to form a
quadrangular enclosure. On the top of this, from end to end, two large timbers are
laid, each several feet from the centre. On these and on the walls the roof rests. It
has a slight pitch, and is formed of halves of trees hollowed out, and reaching from the
roof-top downwards on each side, .so as to project a little beyond the walks. These
" scoops," as they are called, are placed concave and convex alternately, so as to over-
lap each other. Fitted logs are then placed between the gable walls and the apex of
the roof; all chinks and openings are filled up with moss or hay, and the rude
building is made (piite warm and weather-tight. In the end wall is a large doorway
with a door of roughly-hewn lumber; the floor consists of logs hewn flat; and
the huge girders of the roof art: each supported midway by tv/o large posts, some
four or five yards apart. The space between these four posts, in the genuine old-
fashioned shanty, is occupiitd by the "caboose," or fireplace, substantially built up
with stones and earth. Within the shanty there is no chimney, but an opening in
the roof has a wooden frame-work round it which does duty for chimney ; so wide

OF THE CONTINENT

•93

laid out by
ibles for the
as to form a
e timbers are
3of rests. It
ling from the
vails. These

as to over-
tlie apex of

nd the rucif
rge doorway
'ti flat; and
posts, some
genuine okl-
illy built up

1 opening in
:y ; so wide

in.

Sketches -ora life, by Frank H. Schell. i|/H T^^^ Q.'^^'S^ .

ill.

|,i i,.„. ; i,i'ft:i;:;;i 'J I'Jfc^l |l}iip(|l!|p^|}||

MEN OF TllK HUSH.

Ecgpigjipjaf^

194

////:' /iASTliRNMOST lifDGH

is tlic oiH-ninj^- that the inmaU's, as
tlu'v li(' in their l)iinks at ninln,
can look up at tlie sk\ and stars. 'I'liis priniitixc mode of construction secures perfect
ventilation, hut makes a lartje tire necessarv for comfort.

At two corners of the hearth are fi.xed stroni^' wooden cranes — which the cook can
adjust to any position for the various pots anil tea-hoilers. On three sides of the shanty
are rows of bunks, or platforms, one ahove the other, alonj^ the entire length. On
these the lumbermen sleep, side by side, in their clothing and blankets, their heads
to the wall and their feet to the central tire, which is kept well supjilied with fuel
all night. A better class of .shanty is now built, of ol)long shape, with bunks along
one length only, and a table at the ojjposite side ; with such lu.xuries as windows,
and even lamps at night ; with box-stoves instead of the central caboose ; and at the
rear end a foreman's room.

A picturesque sight on a winter's moonlight night are the bright windows and
smoking chimney of a lumber shanty ; over the ice-road of the lake a belated team-
ster drives his weary horse; beyond, in black shadows, are the pines; above, in
chequered light and shade, is the brow of a mountain explored as yet only by the
eagle ; below, and full in the moonlight, is tlie shanty, bright with warmth and rude
good-cheer, the snow banked high against its walls, the noise of its song and merry
voices echoing from within through the sombre wilderness.

The primitive "jobbers' shanty" is of a smaller and rougher class. The jobbers
are a new race who have arisen in the forest, subsequent to the epoch of the

tht

OF Tllli LONTIMiNT

'95

old liiinlicr Kini,rs who rcii^nccl in all th(
irraiulciir of imilispuicd (nvncrslii|). Sc'ttlcr^

lojlowcd in the waki- of Innil

)cnnsj

first, tliiy were content to minister to tlu'
nci-essities of the Kin^s

and tiieir subiects

bji

lie\ (harijid th<'ir own |)ri

iliin

■^

len-

prices lor cstrv-
anns \ ielded, ;ind no one

olijected.

iut as new

setlli'rs came in,

many ol tlie yomiL; farmers were amhitio

to lak(

<• :i liand in a hnsiness that comb.m

le attractions
.f I

.f I

ol lores

t life with the hope

ol larj^c oains and the excitement of

SIJCCU-

ation.

aps tliei

I ti

■e was l;(ioiI timher on

tiieir own farms, or iw(

1 or tiiree woiil

comhme and commence work on stri

A JOMHIiKS SllA.NIV.

land lietw'.cn or iieyoiul tiie Ljreat areas
occupietl l)\ tile regular gan<^s. Sometimes,
tile) made a contract with a large operator
to deliver so man\ logs, or to work diirin,!^
the season for liim. .\i otiier times, they cut, and— with tiie help of a >oke of oxen—

rolleil their logs on "skids," and
ell, the horsv.s

t^^.f^<^-'

MARKING LOGS AT SKIDWAY.

til

ill

1^6

THE EASTERXMOST RIDGE

li.uihd tlidii to til.- ■ foil-way," wliciv the jolihcr .,r<)i his [.ritr aoni'.lin,^ i,, \\xv
«|ii:ility nf tile |()-s. Hackuootls farmers could put up a nidr diaittv in a day or two,
and they wvw content to live roiij,rhly. knowinjj that the winter's work would prol.alily
lirin^: in more money tiian the summer's larniin«,r, liesides. every n\:in had his ritle ;
and an ordinary Mriton or Canadian thinks it wortii while to endure all hardships for
the sak«' of .i^ettinj,^ a shot at a Ixiar, or l)rin>,rinj,r ,|„wn a red deer or the stal«'ly moose.
Jobbers, thoiijrh ;. new nice, are becoming,' more and more important in hnnberinj,'
operations. I'or the principle of division of labour triumphs even in the backwoods.
When shantv and stables have been built, the ne.xt work is to construct the
••landinjr," or roll-way, on the shore of river or lake. The roll-way is Usually on
the slope of a hill, and must i)e carefully cleared of ail obstructions, so that ih.'
.Leathered piles of lo^rs may roll down easily in the spring', I-'rom the roll-way. the
"head-swamper," or road-maker, extends the road into the forest as the hunbermen
advance. The members of a ^ranjr averaj,re over twenty, but sometiilU'H amount to
eighty or more. The several shanties in the limits are visited by th«.' " l>usli suporiti-
t.Mident," who drives in all weathers from one ^aw^ to another, supervising their work.
At the heail of each jranj,^ is the foreman, who calls the men every morni'ij;, directs,
and records on a rude slate or shin,i,r|e tiie work done. The cook, and his assistant
are important functionaries; so are the carpenter, who repairs the sleighs; the leading
teamster, who directs the liauliny of the lotrs ; and the " sled-tender," who sees to liieir
loading. There are. too, the "head-chopper," with his tiiree assistants, who fell the
trees; the two sawyers, who cut them intA loj,rs ; the "scorers," who remo\f "slabs'
and branches from trees meant for s(juare timber; and the "hewer," who with !iis
broail-a.\e stpiares thi' "stick." as the huge lenjjth of timber is called, .\ j-aiij^r su.h
as this, with ten or twelve horses, will brinjr to th-;ir landinjr 4,000 to 5,001) saw-lo,irs
ill a season

When the a.xemen 5,^0 into the woods, th(; head-chopper chc.oses the tree. The
a.xes begin co notch from opi)osite directions, sometimes two striking alternate blow:,
at each side; the nimbly-plied steel (piickly bites through the solid wood and the chips
tly fast till the trunk is nearly severed. The tree-top bends and rocks, .slowly at liist,
and then, with a crash, the patriarch of the forest falls prostrate. ,\e.vl come the saw-
yers, whose "cro.ss-cut," drawn swiftly through the trunk, severs it into logs, which
are then hauled to the " skidways " and receive the "bush-mark." liach log is gener-
ally a fair load for a sled ; but sometimes two or three are bound on by a strong
chain. Long |)ieces of timber are drawn by a double sled— two short "bobs," or
pairs on runners, united by an adjustable bar; or a single "bob" is used, on which
one end of the stick is raised— the other '.ragging in the snow. To haul a very
heavy piece of timber eight or ten horses may be required, and rollers, or "skids,"
are placed under it, at inter\als. to lessen the friction.

O/-' IIIH LOMIXENT

•97

CHOPPING AND SAWING.

I9.S

THE HASTERNMOST RWGE

'(If,

The road to the lanclin_i,r is often far from level ; when the descent is danot r-
ously steep, what is called a '\L;allery road." is ronstriicted by drivint,^ piles into thr
hillside and e.\cavatin.t: earth, which is thrown on the artificial terrace thus carried roinul

the face of the mil.

l)(i\\n this the ini'rr\'

slcii^ii - ili"i\(T descends

safely with incredible speed: ;diove

him the ^icep l)eneaih, the precii)lci'

liMiii which the wall of piles, loirs

and i-arth secures him.

When the decent is still steeper
than that "f the L;aller\- i-oad, "snul)-
Miil; " is practised. TJus consists in
secin'injsr a rope at one cwX t>i the

sleiirh and at lh<- other tn a lre< ;it the toji of the hill, whence it is
slowly as tl.e sieii^h descends. The lo-^s unloadeil at the lanchni^r an- market! on tJK
end with the trade-mark of the owner; also with another mark indicatinir their value.

paid out

ti:

I' he yang works from dawn till dark, with an interval for d

inner.

IS IS o

ft en

Ill

OF THE CONTINENT

199

brought to tlicin, ready cnokcd, into tin.' wooils. The men sit round a fire, over which
l)oils the fragrant lea, 'I'hey d<'s|)isc milk and siit^^ar, but the tea must be stronir.
After dinner and a lew minutes sniokinij, work is resumed ; vXw. axe Hwings, the
saw is plied, teams thrive their toads to the landins,r till after sunset, when they
arc driven back, and I he uear>- horses stabled and fed. Then, after a hasty
wash, the men enter tllc siiaiUy, where, close to the central lire, is a boiler nearly

IN A I.IMHKK SIIANI'

full of stronj,r tea, fresh made, Hanked by a hu^^e pan full of fat pork, fried and
lloatinjr in j^ravy. There is also a dish, eijualK' lari^u', of cold pork. On a corner
shelf is a mammoth loaf of bread, than which all Canada can provitle no better;
with a large knile, and a pile of basins stacketl toj^ether. With admirable unanimity
of purpose the men, one after .mother, select a pint basin and a luij^re slict! of ihe
hot, fresh bread. I'assiiii; to the caboose, they fill their basins with hot tea, and
secure as much of hoi or cold pork as they desire. Then, seated on benches beside
the fire, each wiih the help ol his cast:-knife discusses the; pork and bread, washing-
the solids down with copious draughts of tea. The only light is that of the caboose
fire, gleaming on swarl faces and stalwart forms, and reflectetl from the tin vessels

3UU

Tim hASTERNMOST RIDGE

in tlu'ir hands.
Cattio lire some-
times driven to the shanties that the
men may have fresh beef for a change.

After supper the lumberers lounge about in various directions ; some hang up
SOCKS, mittens, or moccasins to dry by caboose or stove— some sharpen their chopping-
axes — others engage in conversation, or chaffing, which, if sometimes broad, is always
good-humoured. Singing and spinning yarns of past adventure are as popular as with
"ailors, Often a fiddle is produced, and dancing of the kind which Efifie Dean's father

would not have disapproved is kept up with
spirit. But soon all are ready for sleep ;
rolled in blankets, each in his bunk, they
settle down for the night. Shantymen are
healthy, and they should be millionaires and
philosophers, for they are certainly " early to
bed and early to rise." Called by the fore-
man before daylight, after a ha.sty breakfast
they hitch their horses to the sleigh in th(;
cold light of the winter's dawn, and begin
again the routine of work. Game of all
kinds— even the larger species of deer — is
often sighted by the men when at work, and
the rifle is kept in readiness. Bears are
also trapped now and then. The trap is a
strong enclosure of stakes firmly driven into
Hi.AK TRAP. the ground ; a heavy log is suspended above.

OF 'fE CONTINENT

301

propped up by a stick, to which -le bait is attached. The bear enters to get at
the bait. Seizing it, the log fails upon his back and he is ynable to release himself.

A considerable number of the lumbermen are French; many with Indian blood,
the de.scendants of the converts of the Jesuit Missionaries. These are visited by a
priest of the Church at least once during the season. He drives from shanty to
shanty, over narrow and almost impassable forest lumber-roads ; on arriving, he is
received with reverence by his co-religionists and with respect by all. After supper
the small portable altar which he brings is set up, the crucifix in the centre, the
mystical lights burning on each side. Short vespers are said. Then the priest hears
confessions, often far into the night. Next morning Mass is celebrated, and after the
final benediction the men resume work ; while the priest, having taken a brief repose,
departs on his round of laborious duty. In the Ottawa district, tiie lumbermen who
are not French are largely Scottish Higliianders. Long ago in the Old World, the
two nationalities were allies. They fought then against men. They fight now side by
side against the giants of the forest.

As the shanties are generally remote from settled districts, their supplies of pro-
visions have to be transported long distances from the nearest point attainable by rail or
steamboat. Such a point becomes, therefore, an important "dep6t" of supplies. From
it there is a constant dispatch of sleighs loaded with provender for the horses.
and pork, molasses, potatoes, peas and beans for the men. These sleighs travel in
trains, and as far as possible on the ice. Lest the track should be lost under snow-
drifts, it is marked by a line of small evergreens. When the teamsters turn aside to
the land, it is generally to reach another river or lake. Should an upset or other
accident happen, they rush through the snow to help their unlucky comrade with never-
failing good humour. A jollier crowd does not exist. They turn out into the deep
snow to make way for a train of sleighs coming from the opposite direction as cheerily
as they drive off the river road to one of the numerous stopping-places provided
to supply passing trains with food or shelter. These stopping places are welcome
breaks in the long journey to the depdt. The average depdt is a primitive building,
much like a shanty, but larger, furnished wiUi windows, and divided into rooms. It
is the lumberman's headquarters for news as well as supplies. Our illustration shows
the arrival of a train of sleighs. The horses drag their way, with drooping heads, to
the large range of stables. It is a wild snow-storm: the dark clouds are drivc-n
before fierce gusts of wind ; thick snowdrifts shiver around the side of the depot,
but within all is warmth and good-cheer for the weary teamsters. Notwithstanding the
wild weather, one of the depdt hands is driving a sleigh, with water-barrel, to the
river, and the proprietor or superintendent, wrapped in fur coat and cap, has come
o\er fn take stock of the newly-arrived supplies.

The great expense of transporting for '.Mig distances large (piantities of provisuns

202

THE EASTERN MUSI RIDGE

t(i

ih(

limits

luis

e\-

have

sill)!)

Iv of f;

irm procluct

rfacl\- at liaiul

the fal

when, as

tht

u'<-' not yet formed, transport is most cxpcnsuc.

IIh' farm liands anil

snow-road

lior.scs

<'m|)Io\((l <liirin'' tlie \vint<

<M' 111 tile woods, so

that

men ma\' pass )oars in

thch

rcgio

witlioiit \isitinsj a citv. Ulacksmit

1 and

carpenter shops for repairinsj;- sleitrlis, and otliei

tradesmen s sliantles.

ather round tliese c(,'ntres, and a \illai''e irrows np.

As otner

th(

(arms are cultivated near ii, or a saw-mil

italdislied t(j manufacture lumber fc

local

ises. tile \llla'''(-' olteil hecome: llle nucleus ol a town or Clt\

It often

too. that t

ie u()()(| prices and read\ i

iiarket of a

lumlx'r depot induce the

hard

ippens,
V settler

build l-.i'-

l<}y-h(nise and ck.-ar his jiatch of ground in the

woods near i

t, anil here

liNcs Ins roui.;h lile — j

life

ibb

■r, f.

inner, a

pioneer.

Thus our Canadian civilization

IS aihanceil m

the; wake of the luml

K'riiu

trade

When the snnsh

ine at the em

roads hreak ii

1 of March melts the s
th

now, or

ist before the

p, the teamsters return in lont; trains, with empt\- sleiirhs, to their far-oft

Soon after, about the middle of .\pril,

th(

arm rains have ruined the

■^Uow-Kiail-,, when ihi' ice has i^one down iroin the swollen s

streams and the lakes are

ciiar wi

siirinj:; water, a new phase of the lumbermen s

life 1)

',Ui

but

dauijcrous work of L!ett

wv^ the l<)ij;s down the roll-wavs into the river, and ^aiiili

le excitinj.;,
liny

or THE CONTJXENT

203

tluin \i\ strcani or

liiUr ii) mills or in

irkct. I'o facilitate t''is, thu landiiv's or

ill-

\\ays, when not on the river ice, have

liei'ii constructed on a steep declivity. Con-
se(|iiently when the lower loi^s are loosened and thrown into the river, those above
them follow from their own wei'du. Should an\- nhstacle iiave been allowed to remain

e roll-W

AS luindreds of losjs max- be arrestctd

so huddled tOLTether as to

ke their extrication most dan>rerous.

n one instance, a hardv river-driver, who went

iieiioatl
iK.'ld it

1 sncn

a lian-'in'.

ass of timber or " j;

im.

and

sus|jeiuied, sa

\C(

1 his life from the 'i\'alanche of

cut away the stump which
;4s onl\- l)y jumpin;4 into the

nv(

;r and dixiiiiL; deep t(

miu-stream.

Sue)

1 ;in exi)

loit

is merelv one of manv

instances ot cool courai;c ihsplaxi'il cons

tantlv bv tl

le n\-pr-clri\'ers, as

these Uimiiermen

ar<' caiiei

11(

Ih.

that

remain on the

dint.

must be remov<;d

uid hooks, with more or less ris

k t

(I tile WOlkmeil, III

i with [licks, bars
ire alloat. Once afloat,

tlufv are earned on l)\'

th.

e current, while the river-drncrs. armed with loivr poles,

full(

tiiem ,
for thi

the shore, to prexciU an\'

fr.

om strandin

leii the stream is navisraijle

iihl, tl.il-botlomed boats i

used b\ luml)ermen. lhe\'

tlu

drive I

n the

.•\ SETTI.KR'S SHANTY.

running; tlie rapids, and often exposed to ijreat risk, as the; swollen stream carries
them aijainst projectinj:;- rocks. (Jften, too, the lo.irs will be caui^ht by some point
of land, whence they have to be rolled with " cantdiooks"— a work of much labour.

204

I lit is-ASIliRNMOiiT RIDGE

Jik

The rivor-drivcrs arc usually accompanied as far as possil)le by a scow with a covered
structure. like a Canadian " Noali's Ark." Hie scow serves all the purposes of a shanty.
The -rr '.est dan,<rer is when lo-s are cauj,du mid-stream, .•specially above a rapid.
Then it is necessary to ilisen-a,i,re the '■ key-piece "-the loc,r which, caught by rock
or other oi.stacle, causes th,' jam. The precision with which e.xperienced river-drivers
will ascertain the key-piew- of ., jam, is no less remarkable than the darin.^r and skill
with which they escape the rush of the suddenly-liijerated lo-s down the rapids. They
leap from loo to loo, and maintain their balance with the de.xterity of a rope-dancer.
Still, scarce a season passes without loss of life from this cause durino the driv.^.
'Jhe m<Mi, therefor.', do all in their power to prevent the occurrence of a jam.
Pike-poles in hand, th.^y shove onwards the lo-s that seem likely to cause obstruai..M.
When the force of the current is insufficient as in small streams or at the
outlets of lake.,, dams are used in order by accumulating- the water to lloat the Iocs
thither, and carry them f.)rward with a rush when the oates are openeil. The dams are
built of timber deep-li.xed in the bed of the stream, so as to resist tli.' oreat pressmv
to which they are often sidjject.'d. They ar.' furnished with oates b> which the
amount of water to pass throu-h can be rej,rulated, and sluic-waxs-^ one broad .uul in
the centre. To this the lo-s are directed from the water abov.t by a boom. Sonu-
times there are as many as a .lozen dams in tlu^ course of a stream, and fre.piently
four gates to a dam. The logs are thus carried by each of these operations, not
merely past one point of .)bstruction, but over a considerable portion of a stream
otherwise too shallow. Kven with all these appliances, after a winter of little snow,
and when the ice has gone out of the lakes, ther.' is often not enough force of wat.r
to carry down the logs. In that cas.-, they are left till the following spring.

On rivers down which square timber is ljr.)ught, and wher.', as in parts of the
Upper Ottawa, cataracts occur of such magnitude as to injure the pieces by dashing
them with great violence against rocks, resort is had to contrivances called "slides."
These consist of artificial channels, the sid..-walls an.l bottoms lin.'d with smooth,
strong timber-work, .At the upper end of this chann.-l are gates, through which the
pent-up water can be admitted or shut off. In the large slides this is attended to,
and the duty on down-bound timber collected by a Government official- the "slide-
master"— who resides on the spot. Through these slides, built by (iovernment on th.'
most important rivers, pass the "cribs." These are constructed of a regulation width,
.so as to fit the passage-way of the slide. The crib is about twenty-four feet wide :
its le-igth varies with that of tli<: square timber. The lower part generally consists of
about twenty pieces, bound firmly together, and secured by shorter pieces, called "trav-
erses," strongly pinned down. On the traverses are laid lengthways, four pieces of
square timber, firmly fi.xed. The crib is often furnished with a frame house for the
long oars as " sweeps," and with a mast and sail. I'>equentlv the

raftsmen, with

Oh THE CONTINENT

205

'il

THl:. KOI.l.WAY.

Ottawa river-drivers take tourists or others as [jasseiijrers, to give them the sensation
of 'shooting a J^licle." We embark on board a cril) aliove the sHiie-gates Hl the falls

of the Calumet.

The raftsmen bid us take tirm iioiil of

)f tht

strong
hich are driven between the lower timbers of the crib. Above the slide the waters

2o6

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

the Ottawa arc still and deep; at the left side, tlir()iin;|i tlic intcrvcnini,^ wood , we cm
hear tlic roar of tin- cataract. 'llic slidc-^alcs arc tlirown ojn'ii ; tlic \vat<'r suri^rcs over
the smooth, incliiii'd cliaiincl ; our cril), carefully steered through the i;ate\\a\, slouK
moves its forward end over the <'ntrance ; it advan<:es, s\va_\s for a moment, then, with
.1 sudden i)liMii;c and s|)lasli of water, nislies faster and faster ln'twe<'n tJH' narrow
wails. Tile rellow of tile torrent streams over tlie crih from tlie front ; jets of w.iter
S|)urt up e\cr\ wliere lietween the limliers under oiu- feet ; ilien dipping;- lu-avily as it

riMMKU si.n>K AT nil: iammi-i iai.i.s.

leaves tlie slide, our crih is in the calm water beneath, the i^lorious scener) of the
cataract full in view. Without knowing it, we have got wet through a trifle not to
be thought of, amid the rajiturc; of that rapid motion which Dr. Johnson considered
one of the greatest of life's enjoyments. He spoke of "a fast drive in a post-chaise."
What would he have said to a |)lunge down the slides of the Ottawa 1

When there is a formidabh' rapid on which there is no slide, the crib has to be
t; ken asunder and the separate pieces sent down, to be gathered by a boom below,
and put together as before. Over a lake or broad river, the crib advances by means
of an anchor carried out some distance, the rope from which is wound up by a capstan
on board. When possible, a sail is hoisted ; at other times, the crib is propelled by
long oars, or sweeps, in the hands of the raftsmen, a tedious and laborious process.

OF Tim CONTIXHXT

acj;

)ll ., Wf t .III

■iiiri^cs over
i\;i\, slowly
iIk'H, with
I hi' narrow
:s ot water
-•a\il\' as it

il ^'

HT)' of tile

rifle not to

considcnd

lost-c liaise. "

has to !)<■
Dom below,
; by means
• a capstan
■opelled liy
process.

2o8

THE EASTERN MUai i^iUGE

The immediate destination of the s(iuare timher conveyed by water or railway is
the "banding ground," where it is formed into the immense rafts that are such a dis-
tinctive feature of our lake and river scenery. A raft is composed of from ninety to a
hundred cribs, "banded" together by " wythes." or twisted saplings, of hard, tough
wood, and joined at the ends by "lashing-poles," which are fixed to the end traverses
by chain wythes. In place of these, "cat-pieces" are sometimes used— that is, lengths
of strong scantling, stout enough to bear a considerable strain, and long enough to
reach easily from crib to crib. Thus the cribs are kept close together, yet are allowed
sufficient independence of motion up and down to lessen the strain on the huge raft.
The raft can be readily taken apart and put together again ; as each part is passed
down a rapid, the men return overland to the part not yet sent down, carrying their

gear in wagons.

Like the separate cribs of which we have spoken, the raft is propelled ordinarily by
sweeps or, weather permitting, by sails. Often a steam-tug is employed, a curious
variety being the " fiddle-boat"— that is, two long boats, or sections of boats, with the
paddle-wheel between them. The crew consists of from forty to fifty well-built and
skilful men, who live— sometimes with their wives and children— in little wooden
liouses on the raft. The strange craft presents the appearance of a village, progressive
enough certainly, and in America that is the ideal of perfection. The chief danger to
be avoided is falling through the openings between the ends of cribs of unequal
length. These water spaces become tilled with doating foam and chips, so as to be
almost indistinguishable from the solid surface of the log. On the rivers the greatest
danger to rafts and raftsmen is from the rapids; on the lakes, from storms; yet
owing to the skill of the pilots and the efificiency of the crews, accidents are rare ; and
these timber islands, after a journey from the remotest paris of Canada, oat down the
broad St. Lawrence, sound as when first banded together, to their destination in the

coves of Quebec.

At these coves the rafts are finally broken up, and frc n the acres of timber
thus accumulated, the large, ocean-going ships are loaded. Near the vessel men run
actively over the floating timbers, and with the help of pke-poles select the cargo.
Kach stick or spar is lifted by means of a chain slung from a spar on deck, and brought
to a level with the large receiving-port near the vessel's bow. It then rests on a
roller, and is easily shoved in, and stowed away. "Deal" planks are brought alongside
the timber-ship in large barges moored fore and aft of the ship, and the deals thrown
in through the ports. When the steadily-increasing load within the hold sinks the
vessel to its lower ports these are closed, and the loading is resumed at those
immediately above. The scene is a striking one. In the foreground the dark ship,
contrasting with the gay motley of the lumbermen's costume ; farther off. the coves,
with the miles and miles of booms, and millions of feet of timber ; in the distance.

the anci
virgin fo
Saw-
built on
" <lriving'
course sc
are comn
uninjured
many are
fri'shet di
west, is
repeated
agricultur;
ishing toi
When th
timber bj
up the si
manufactu
river-drivii
complete
n^moval ii
distance is
to the ma
newest anc
the saw-m
may not b
indeed, is
farm-house
dark pines
human ind
Along
mile or m(
supply of t
and genera
mill of the
that is som
ters' and rr.
The logs a
an inclined

railway is
such a dis-
iiincty to a
arcl, tough
d traverses

is, lengths
enough to
are allowed
: huge raft.
t is passed
Tying their

rdinarily by
a curious
ts, with the
:il-built and
tie wooden

progressive
;f danger to

of unequal
so as to be
the greatest
storms ; yet
e rare ; and
at down the
ation in the

5 of timber
lel men run
: the cargo,
and brought
rests on a
ht alongside
deals thrown
)ld sinks the
d at those
e dark ship,
, the coves,
the distance.

OF THE CONTINENT

hill.

2C9

;i>'' ancient city and its historic hill. Here the wealth floated ..^^ ..„.,. „„.

virgin forest, greets the walls and spires of the Middle Ages.

Saw-logs are not usually floated as far as square umber, because saw-mills ar.
bu.lt on the streams. Hut on some rivers, several hundred men are (,cct,picd in
••dr,vmg" for over two hundred miles. Some of the Laurentian rivers, again, have a
course so difficult and dangerous that driving is not attempted on them. The logs
ar.. committed to the river, and those that come down the falls and over the rap, Is
unmjured are gathered at the mouth. Many log.s are so battered as to be useless'
many are stranded, or caught by rocks or eddies, and must remain till the next spring
ireshet d.slodges them. We ha.e seen how settlement in the new country, north and
west, ,H following in the wake of the lumber trafHc. The same process is being
repeated before our eyes which, two generations ago. gave the first impetus to the vast
agricultural settlements of Ontario. The mill-villages and lumber depots are tl'e flour-
ishing towns and cities of to-day. The .second stage is die construcM'on of railways
When the country is sufficiently settled, it pays operators to convey their square
umber by rail, so as to be earlier in the market. Saw-mills are built farther
up the stream, to obtain the raw material near its source and transmit by rail the
manufactured product. Still, for a long time to come, there will be a continuance of
nver-driving, to supply existing mills nearer the frontier. Most of these are so
complete in their arrangements, so furnished with expensive machinery, as to make
removal impossible without heavy loss; beside.s. the expense of river-driving from a
distance i.s balanced by greater proximity to the centres of trade, and by direct access
to the markets for manufactured lumber. And yet there are few districts, even of the
newest and least-settled country, into which lumber operations have been pushed, where
the saw-mill, of a much ruder and simpler type than those in more settled districts
may not be hailed as the pioneer of advancing civilization. Somewhat unpicturesque'
mdeed. is the tall tower of open framework, yet it is a welcome neighbour to the
farm-house sheltered by the snow-covered hiM. Through the deep ravine rmoncr the
dark pines, flows a stream that now. for th^ first time, does its part in concert\vith
human industry.

Along the river, above any large mill in the more settled country, will be seen a
m.le or more of booms enclosing logs that have been floated down for the season's
supply of the .saw.s. In such mills is found every appliance of labour-saving machinery
and generally the works are arranged to utilize much that in the more primitive .saw
mill of the backwoods went to waste. Nothing i. lost except the sawdust, and even
that .s sometimes used to feed the engine furnace. There are often forges, end carpen-
ters' and m- hine shops, that machinery out of gear n,ay be repaired on the premises.
The logs are drawn into the mill by a car which is lowered by the steam-power along
an mclmed tramway to the water, where it sink.s sufficiently to allow a couple of logs

a 10

Wli '■■■ I IJI\\\I06T HJtKiE

lOUIiSI .->! KliAM, AM) I I.MHKK SI.IOK.

01- THIi C(' //A/: AT

311

ii.wi ON I n.iri, < Ki-.!.K.

If'

""iiiiii

guided hy pike-poles, to he placed upon it. Ihese ,ii( held fast on lie car li- siiarp
spikes, on uhich tiiey ri'st, as it is drawn Ironi the water tip tlie incline.l pIiik.' -o iIk;
mill. Arrived at tl..' top. the car is unloaded, and lowered a^ain. The lo-.s whiJi are
l)roiijr|u lip are rolled off upon a inoval)le truck, hy wiiicli tiie\ a;-. ( ;.rried 1. the
"^Miijrs." I'hese consist of rows of keen-toothed s.iws, set side !)y side in a pow -rful
frame. Held last l)y the remorseless (,r,asp of the machitiery that carries them on, the
saws crunch, with apparent case, throuj^di the lom, from etui to end. If th< mil, !«•
driven by steam, the sawdust and other refuse is carried to the enj^ine-room to I ed
tile furnace, or in the case of a water-mill it is thrown in the stream to kill the ti-di,
or spoil the river! In^'enioiisly-contrived machinciry takes the lumber from the saws .
the yard, where it :■ piled, or droppwl into a shiicewav, and lloated to a piling oruun
Multitudinous piles ot symmetrically-arra,ic,red lumber form a peculiar feature i
the outskirts of many Canadian cities, I'he forest products e.xported from Canad..
during the last ten years, have amounted to over twenty millions of dollars annually.
These have consisted almost entirely of scpiare timber, and the more marketable sizes
of sawn lumber, called deals. \early one half goes to (^.reat Mritain, No other
country, by itself, receives m. much. Ne.xt to (Ireat Britain conu: the United States.
which take the great, -t part of the Ontario export. British Columbia sends to .South
America, China, Japan, and the {'.icil'ic isLiiuls. Tl

le .Atlantic Maritime Provinces send

to Europe. Africa and the South .Atl

antic State.- .'Mmost ecp. to this v

the amount consumed for domestic use. The traveller in Canaila

can no

ast export is
t fail to be

211

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

!l .,

f' i

struck by the way in which lumber is used, for the bridges on our rivers, the fences
that divide our fields, th(> sitic-walks in our viilacjes and cities, and for almost every
conceival)!: purpose. In the country, and in many towns, the buildings are of wooil :
the country roads have their foundation of wood, and the newest method of paving our
city streets is with wooden blocks. And in nearly every part of Canada, outside the
towns, wood is the only material used for fuel.

In view of the prodigious consumption for the home and foreign market, the all-
important question comes to be: Mow long can we go on at this rate? Is our forest
wealth exhaustless, tiien ? Enthusiasts talk in an airy way of the woods of Nova
.Scotia and New Hnmswick, of boundless wildernesses to the north of the Ottawa, of
luuouchcd districts between Peterborough and Lake Nipissing, and along the north
shores of tiie (jeorgian Hay and Lake Superior, of the passes of the Rocky Mountain
and Cascade ranges, choked with the Douglas pine and otiier monarchs of the forest.
.And doubtless a su|)])ly almost Jjcyond computation remains to feed this greatest indus-
try of Canada for many a year. But, in every Province, practical lumbermen hold very
different language from that of the enthusiasts. Go to the great centres, to the mills
on the Miramichi, the lower St. Lawrence, the Ottawa, the Trent ; to the Muskoka
and Parry Sound district, or farther west -and talk with the men who have ranged the
woods for half a lifetime, and one and all may be heard sounding tiie note of alarm.
They j)oint out that many of the areas, boasted of as yet untouched, contain no pine
of commercial value; that lumb(;rmen are obliged to jje less particular about the qualit\
every year; that the farther they are forced back, th(! greater is the difficulty of getting
the logs and sticks forward to shipping ports ; and that already they are very near the
line on the other side of which profits Cf'ase and work must stop. Many of the
first authorities declare that, under the present system, the lumber business of Canada
will be a thing of the past in twenty years.

To turn a deaf ear to such warnings would i)e folly. It is abundantly clear that
if more wood is annually destroyed than the amoimt benignant Nature adds to our
national store, we are killing the goose that lays the golden eggs, or acting like the
spendthrift who draws upon a capital that he cannot replace. We must consider what
an.' the chief causes of waste, and how we can best guard against the destruction or
redu ion of our splemlid capital. We need not take into account what is lost by the
adv.mce of .settleni'-nt. Farmers are of more value to a country than any other class.
But, within our Laurentian ranges, there is little- encouragement for farming. There
an-,', it is true, river bottoms, and large patches where the limestone has been tritur.".tetl
anil washed down into a sharji and genc^rous soil. But, by far the greater part of
those regions must bi- ah.indoned to the miner an-.l the lumbern-in. especially to th<-
latter; and if he is driven away, much of our national domain will be useless
as Sahara.

or THI-: CONTINENT

2'.\

the fences
nost every
:; of wood ;
paving our
jutside tin

Forest tires air the ,|,i,.|
cause of waste, ami these arc
generally prmluced hy w.iiil o
thought. Tourists aiil pii-ni(
parties seldom extinguish their cauip-tires or cover the eml.ers with .■artli. liackwoods
farmers are accustomed to clear their land hy setting out lires ; and lliou^r|, this is
usually done when then! is a prospect of rain, they sometimes mistake the signs of
the sky. In a warm an<l rainless season the tires find material to feed upon every-
where ; they .spread along the ground to the forest; and should a gale arise, thev

IHE EAS'IHKNMOST R //)(;£

sweep on with ;i
<4atliere(l slrenj^tli
and roar that is
ppallino. I''enccs,
)ariis and houses
that lie in their
course are wiped
out completely :
and the settlers
are <;lad to escape
wilii their lives.
The loss to the
country is enor-
mous. I'or in-
stance, from ten
to fift(;en millions
f>l <lollars' worth
of timber were
tiestroved iti the

OF Till-: cox n A' EAT

21 ■■

ON THK UPPKK SI. MAUUICK.

IVovmc. of Ontario by autumn fires in ,88,; that is, a sum equal to half of our
revenue, was burnt as so much old paper, and the public .seemed to care little. Forest
t.res. too, are not like those that sweep over the prairie and add to the vegetable
■nould. i hey often burn into the ground, eat up the little ea,-th there is, and" leave
the stone.s mossless and hungry. When the tall pines a>-e left standing, scorched,
l'lac..,ned, and tliscrowned, an insignificant insect, rightly called (Ireat^-one of the
Capricorn beetles -completes the work of destruction. It bores ihrouoh the outer bark
and deposits its larva between the bark and ti>e wood. The larva feeds on the woods
hbre,and gradually bores its way to the heart of the pine. These "bcu-e.-s" are ahnos't
as much dreaded by the lumbermen as grasshoppers by a prairie far.ner. In travellin-
through a burnt district, their presence is sufficiently attested whenever there is a high
Wind. The air is filled with innumerable particles of woody dust, and the scene
resembles a snow storm more than anything else.

Replanting has been suggested to counterbalance the loss caused by fires and
reckless cutting. .Such a remedy is practically impossible. It would be too costly, and
there would be great difficulty in preserving the young trees f,-om fires. Besides, a
pine takes one hundred and fifty years to reach maturity.

One or two measures may be suggested. The Government should, by a commis-
sion of experts and scientific ,nen, take stock of our forest wealth. This done, the
1 increment presented

us by Nature could be estimated. And th

icn, on no

Ji6

THE EASTERNMOST RIDGE

accouni, ^lould more tliaii this increment bo cut in any year. This is the law in Norway
:ui.1 S\vcili:n, anil it is a on„tl law. The demand for lumber will increase. Already,
insirad of selectin.Lj only tin l)esl trees, as was the custom a ([uarter of a century ago,
tiir forest is bein.i.; cut down as a wheat held is mowed. Let us not foroet that
tli<-y who waste shall want. Our form of government mak(^s it difficult to pass or
lo .enforce laws to curb greed. Hut the call for immediate action is loud. One or two
wise huvs, ;ind the employment of the best men obtainal)le as "bush-rangers" to take
c.ire of Coveriiinint timber limits, would preserve to Canada an income from her
wildernesses for centuries.

We owe much of our wealth and development to tiie lumber trade. It has been
one of the great instruments of our .self-expansion during the past forty years. Hut
the anxieties for a nation's future increase with increasing wealth and population.
Civilized men cannot live in the fool's Paradise of the present.

■*'^^<ff^-^«»»MI«lP'-^

l! V?

in Norway
Already,
nlury ago,
orgct that
to pass or
)nv. or two
s" to taUi'
from licr

t has been
ears. Hut
popiihitif>ii.